# [Official] Case PHANTEKS Case Club for lovers & owners



## doyll

*Case Owner's Club*

*█████████████████████████████████████████████████████████████████████████████████████████████*

*Phanteks Replacement Case Fan Specifications*



*█████████████████████████████████████████████████████████████████████████████████████████████*

*Phanteks Eclipse P400 and P400S*





Spoiler: Specification and Information






_OC3D video, must see before purchasing the case_




:clock:[/center][/CODE]

into your sig.

*Please let me know if you have any information, ideas and/or suggestions to improve our Phanteks forum!*

*Enthoo Luxe bottom filter conversion so PSU filter comes out with front filter for cleaning .. no need to pull case out to clean PSU filter!!*
[/LIST]


----------



## exyia

I would love it, but looks too big for me. I imagine it's even bigger in person than I think - and I already think it looks big in pictures

but who knows, I might break down and get this case anyway. anxious to see owners/pictures!


----------



## doyll

It's really not that big. 9.84" x 25.59" x 23.62" or 250mm x 650mm x 600mm (WxHxD)


----------



## Gabrielzm

Do you have the case already Doyll?


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Do you have the case already Doyll?


I wish!








No idea when they will be released to the public yet or who will be getting to review it.
Phanteks website has it listed with specifications and can download the manual.









As a side note I've been told the first stock of new F140HP cooler fans is expected next month.


----------



## Roxycon

Phanteks has mentioned next month i belive, release to the masses get mentioned at the modzoo review too, watch it here; 




Unfortinatly, it seems like you have to take off the ODD panel to install a 480 rad at the bottom, and to me thats sadly a dealbreaker.. Waiting to see other reviewers with less eager to pull all the pieces apart


----------



## radarjam

So excited!


----------



## Sunreeper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *radarjam*
> 
> So excited!


This case looks absolutely stunning!


----------



## tx-jose

MNPC TECH has a full review up


----------



## v1ral

Wow..
Monster tower era isn't dying at all, this case looks great.
Kind of a mix of the 900d and the level 10, and priced nicely also.


----------



## Sunreeper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *v1ral*
> 
> Wow..
> Monster tower era isn't dying at all, this case looks great.
> Kind of a mix of the 900d and the level 10, and priced nicely also.


Don't forget air 540


----------



## doyll

At about:
* 7:30 in looking at the lower front it looks like we might be able to make it a full vent instead of the strip vent around the center section by removing the center.
* 25:00 in shows the fan hub and verifies it is PSU powered.
* 37:50 in they start the critique.

I hate video reviews but have to say they did a a very nice job.









I'm looking forward to the written build review.


----------



## jassilamba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> At about:
> * 7:30 in looking at the lower front it looks like we might be able to make it a full vent instead of the strip vent around the center section by removing the center.
> * 25:00 in shows the fan hub and verifies it is PSU powered.
> * 37:50 in they start the critique.
> 
> I hate video reviews but have to say they did a a very nice job.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm looking forward to the written build review.


Thanks mate, glad you liked our review. I know its long, and we feel that it deserved it given all the options out there.

I'm working on the article and a proper build in this system, and that should be up on themodzoo.com sometime soon.


----------



## rpjkw11

Another review is up at Kitguru and it delves deeper into the water cooling potentials than the Anantech review.

I agree with doyll about disliking video reviews. I do, however, enjoy reviews by Dmitry at Hardware Canucks simply because the flow is much better without a lot of "ums" and "ahs".

But the video review doyll mentioned (by modders, I think) was nothing short of SUPERB. I'm not into water cooling, but those guys answered every question I had or could imagine. I WILL definitely get the Primo.


----------



## jassilamba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rpjkw11*
> 
> Another review is up at Kitguru and it delves deeper into the water cooling potentials than the Anantech review.
> 
> I agree with doyll about disliking video reviews. I do, however, enjoy reviews by Dmitry at Hardware Canucks simply because the flow is much better without a lot of "ums" and "ahs".
> 
> But the video review doyll mentioned (by modders, I think) was nothing short of SUPERB. I'm not into water cooling, but those guys answered every question I had or could imagine. I WILL definitely get the Primo.


We are modders, and our reviews are based on a modders/enthusiasts point of view.


----------



## doyll

Thanks Jassilamba









Link to KitGuru review
http://www.kitguru.net/components/cases/henry-butt/phanteks-enthoo-primo-case-review/


----------



## jassilamba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Thanks Jassilamba
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Link to KitGuru review
> http://www.kitguru.net/components/cases/henry-butt/phanteks-enthoo-primo-case-review/


Your welcome mate, I will let you guys know when my review article has been published, and it will feature a full custom water cooled build.

Once ready the review will be posted here - http://themodzoo.com/forum/index.php?/page/articles.html/_/reviews/


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quick question. It looks to me the case can fit a 280 mm rad in front (specially with two 140 mm fans there by default. While Phanteks is saying just 240 mm there as default support? Can you comment on that jassilamba?


----------



## dsmwookie

Ordered mine directly from Phanteks. Hopefully it turns out well


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dsmwookie*
> 
> Ordered mine directly from Phanteks. Hopefully it turns out well


Did they gave you an estimate of when they will ship? Ordering mine from a place in Holland...


----------



## dsmwookie

1-2 Days.


----------



## Sunreeper

Anybody know where to buy/pre-order in Canada?


----------



## 6steven9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sunreeper*
> 
> Anybody know where to buy/pre-order in Canada?


Ya i would like to know as well i msg'd on fb but they haven't responded yet....


----------



## Sunreeper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *6steven9*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Sunreeper*
> 
> Anybody know where to buy/pre-order in Canada?
> 
> 
> 
> Ya i would like to know as well i msg'd on fb but they haven't responded yet....
Click to expand...

It really sucks because this is the best case I've seen in my life and I want one before their sold out.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dsmwookie*
> 
> 1-2 Days.












I am jealous...Probably will take weeks until I get mine. I would expect by mid-september...


----------



## dsmwookie

Try emailing them. They were very responsive through the site as well with my previous questions.


----------



## Gabrielzm

I am in Brazil Brother....No representative down here...I have to import the case, but yeah worth the try...

Cheers


----------



## doyll

techPowerUp has their review out now!
Quote:


> Phanteks managed to turn heads when the company first released their colored high-end coolers. Their first foray into the competitive chassis market, the Enthoo Primo, is also a force to be reckoned with. The chassis offers excellent watercooling possibilities and takes things one step further by not only giving the user lots of choice when installing radiators but also including pump and reservoir mounts. The PSU bay and cover/reservoir mount inside the chassis have also been segmented well, allowing for nearly all cables to be hidden away nicely. Phanteks is also one of the few companies to completely hide all drives in the chassis while opening the door to modders or limited editions of the chassis with the plaque and its window. They even included four of their retail fans with the Enthoo Primo, and the PCB on the back of the motherboard tray allows for the use of PWM with more affordable 3-pin fans. Small details, like the ability to turn off all lighting elements, even those you add to the mix, show that Phanteks has really put a lot of thought into introducing new functionality instead of simply copying others. The Enthoo Primo's overall visual design of straight lines and rounded curves may appear quite abstract at first, but the blue LED strip just looks awesome once everything is in place and the system has been turned on.
> 
> The Enthoo Primo offers all of this at an excellent price, making it a real contender to the Obsidian 800D or Phantom 820 and a worthy alternative for those who want loads of watercooling potential for less than the, to give an example, Obsidian 900D.


http://www.techpowerup.com/reviews/Phanteks/Enthoo_Primo/4.html


----------



## Jeemil89

Holy s**t this case is awesome. I heard about this case a few months back and even then I was convinced that this is my next case. Thank for the video review!
I will be building a polished copper tube build with black/silver/copper colors. Can't wait


----------



## doyll

MonsterMawd has a nice 48 minute review is quite good.


----------



## Jeemil89

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> MonsterMawd has a nice 48 minute review is quite good.


Yeah it's good, but I feel like they just are forced to make something up that's wrong with the case because they don't want a standard case to be perfect. But still a good review


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeemil89*
> 
> Yeah it's good, but I feel like they just are forced to make something up that's wrong with the case because they don't want a standard case to be perfect. But still a good review


Well case isn't perfect. There are no glaring problems, but there are things to be improved... And I'm sure Phanteks will make improvements as they go along. That's how cases get better and better.

When you get one if there is anything you don't think is perfect let Phanteks know. They like hearing from their customers.


----------



## Jeemil89

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Well case isn't perfect. There are no glaring problems, but there are things to be improved... And I'm sure Phanteks will make improvements as they go along. That's how cases get better and better.
> 
> When you get one if there is anything you don't think is perfect let Phanteks know. They like hearing from their customers.


I agree it's not perfect, but I think it's still one of the most unique cases in a while. It will be interesting to see what the rev.2 improves compared to this one.


----------



## doyll

Hopefully we will be modding out our own Primo's long before the Rev.2 is out.


----------



## Roxycon

Mnpc tech said they should publish the written review today in a facebook post.. Hope ill get my answers on the monster 480 in the bottom


----------



## jassilamba

Our written review is still a week away. I'm making some final changes to the build. We did shoot another video with the build and the loop running. The video should be out soon. Article will be out first week of September.

Here is sneak peak - https://www.facebook.com/TheModZoo


----------



## Hereisphilly

I've pre ordered this, and just pulled the trigger on my 1st watercooling kit to go with it!
I'm planning a 60thk 420 push pull in the roof, a slim 240 at the front, and a 280 monsta push pull in the floor!

Anyone know how easy it would be to connect the tubes to the front rad with both the drive cages in? (I have a fair few disks)


----------



## skupples

I'm pretty sure i'll be doing my tri-titan build in this tower... Just need a little more information... in the form of build pics. =P


----------



## doyll

Here's a teaser of Enthoo with Primochill tubing & Monsta 480 radiator.
https://fbcdn-sphotos-a-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn2/1150366_429208710528940_1681857745_n.jpg


----------



## Sunreeper

I don't know if its just the picture but man they made that build look extremely bad and crappy looking.


----------



## skupples

It's not much for the eyes, but it's nice and clean, that's for sure. I think I will get the big plate cut professionally cut in half. I already know I can't use the next to motherboard res mount, my gpu's too big.


----------



## Sunreeper

I don't even think it's clean when I see those wires hanging from the GPU like that in such an unkempt way it makes me cringe







I want to mount my pump on the plate but I also want to get it cut as well or else there will be no room for a fourth GPU


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sunreeper*
> 
> I don't even think it's clean when I see those wires hanging from the GPU like that in such an unkempt way it makes me cringe
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I want to mount my pump on the plate but I also want to get it cut as well or else there will be no room for a fourth GPU


How about some pics of your system?


----------



## Sunreeper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> How about some pics of your system?


What a horrible argument. I don't need to have a good looking rig to know if another's rig looks good or bad I was just stating my opinion anyways.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sunreeper*
> 
> I don't even think it's clean when I see those wires hanging from the GPU like that in such an unkempt way it makes me cringe
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I want to mount my pump on the plate but I also want to get it cut as well or else there will be no room for a fourth GPU


That's my biggest deciding factor right now... Where is my MCP35x2 going to go... I really dislike the bay res it fits into... BUT it does happen to match the matte finish of enthoo well. It's just that I much rather have my pump visible in this next build.. Maybe i'll just buy STH10, have enough room to sleep inside it.

The res plate is 100% useless for me, as it won't support tri-sli titans.

That link is for sure not a 100% professional/pimped out build. No sleeving is a big eye sore for some people, even if they don't have it on there own rigs.

There are two plates I speak of... The res mount motherboard plate, and the HDD rack plate... I want the HDD mount plate/side panel/stability plate thing cut in half, so that the bottom half is visible, with HDD tracks still intact.


----------



## Sunreeper

I was referring to the res mount motherboard plate I think it would be fairly easy to cut to allow more GPUs to fit while still being able to mount pump and res on. I'm debating the same thing whether to get this case or a 900d since the caselab cases are too expensive for me







so far I'm leaning towards this case because I like the design and the price is perfect but I think you'd be able to fit just a little bit more with a 900d. Apparently coolermaster is going to be revealing a new case in a couple of days that'll revolutionize the case industry so I can't wait and see what they have up their sleaves.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sunreeper*
> 
> I was referring to the res mount motherboard plate I think it would be fairly easy to cut to allow more GPUs to fit while still being able to mount pump and res on. I'm debating the same thing whether to get this case or a 900d since the caselab cases are too expensive for me
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> so far I'm leaning towards this case because I like the design and the price is perfect but I think you'd be able to fit just a little bit more with a 900d. Apparently coolermaster is going to be revealing a new case in a couple of days that'll revolutionize the case industry so I can't wait and see what they have up their sleaves.


Oh i'm sure they will! With hidden SSD mounts and separated PSU's... oh wait...

Cutting that plate is also an epic idea. Get's my mind going, still a terrible place for my pump though, with the whole res above pump thing... I think i just need to bite the bullet and get the Swiftech res that fits my mcp35x2, no one will ever be able to see the white top again!

I like 900D, it's just sooo common.

Good thing I have until the third week of September to decide! (caselabs would be a big chunk out of my possible switch to acrylic budget)


----------



## Roxycon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sunreeper*
> 
> I was referring to the res mount motherboard plate I think it would be fairly easy to cut to allow more GPUs to fit while still being able to mount pump and res on. I'm debating the same thing whether to get this case or a 900d since the caselab cases are too expensive for me
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> so far I'm leaning towards this case because I like the design and the price is perfect but I think you'd be able to fit just a little bit more with a 900d. Apparently coolermaster is going to be revealing a new case in a couple of days that'll revolutionize the case industry so I can't wait and see what they have up their sleaves.


Only thing would be the pumps clearance agains the odd bays and the gpus, prolly have to drill new mount holes but its no biggie









Imo the 900d has a stupid layout for the bottom rads and not being able to hide the psu out of the box is not an option for me at least anymore.. And how could the 900d fit more? As im seeing now, im going two 480 monstas in p/p maybe an 240 skinny push with the hdd cooling bracket (if it allows that, feeling ok with a little modding) and a 140 60mm in the back









Edit: coolermaster will never again get my money for a case after they got 500++ people answering their survey on a cosmos2 windowed door just to say a week later the costs are too high with no demand (98% of cosmos2 owners, the resting 2% being they who did it themselfes, at least for ocn)


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sunreeper*
> 
> What a horrible argument. I don't need to have a good looking rig to know if another's rig looks good or bad I was just stating my opinion anyways.


Maybe you need to chill a little.








I was just asking to see what your system looks like, not argue.


----------



## ModernAfro

Does anyone know if i could mount a res above the GPU's? but under the top rear exhaust fan? it has the mess and i would really not want to cut the res bracket unless i need too. i would be having either 2 Gigabyte GTX 770's or SLI 780's down the road.


----------



## Roxycon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ModernAfro*
> 
> Does anyone know if i could mount a res above the GPU's? but under the top rear exhaust fan? it has the mess and i would really not want to cut the res bracket unless i need too. i would be having either 2 Gigabyte GTX 770's or SLI 780's down the road.


there is a tube res mount in front of the pcie screw secure holes right under the exhaust fan, if thats what you're asking of though it would be hard to utilize it with a pump and the radspace in the bottom.. placing a res here will also mean unscrewing your res and mounts when you wanna swap out the gpu's

You could also buy something like this Rad mount


----------



## ModernAfro

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roxycon*
> 
> there is a tube res mount in front of the pcie screw secure holes right under the exhaust fan, if thats what you're asking of though it would be hard to utilize it with a pump and the radspace in the bottom.. placing a res here will also mean unscrewing your res and mounts when you wanna swap out the gpu's
> 
> You could also buy something like this Rad mount


Yup! that's what i was referring to....i'm now thinking i should remove the rear exhaust fan and mount that res bracket there..... and have the bottom 480 in p/p for intake and the top 480 p/p for a exhaust......


----------



## Roxycon

Looks like it is a decent size tho









edit: take the fan external instead of removing it completely and still trying to maintain positive air pressure case seems like a dust magnet


----------



## Hereisphilly

This is what i've got planned so far then:

EK Supremacy Clean CSQ Universal CPU Waterblock : Copper Acetal
2x Alphacool NexXxoS NVXP Full Cover Waterblock Nvidia GTX680: Brushed Stainless Steel : Black
2x Alphacool NexXxoS ATXP Back Plate for Nvidia GTX 680

Top Rad: Alphacool NexXxoS UT60 420mm Triple Radiator : Full Copper
6x Phanteks PH-F140SP 140mm fans in push/pull
Front Rad: Alphacool NexXxoS ST30 280mm Dual Radiator : Full Copper
2x Phanteks PH-F140SP 140mm fans in push
Bottom Rad: Alphacool NexXxoS UT60 280mm Dual Radiator : Full Copper
4x Phanteks PH-F140SP 140mm fans in push/pull
And an additional rear Phanteks PH-F140SP 140mm fan at the rear

Phobya Balancer 250 Reservoir Black Nickel mounted on res bracket (if my cards will let it fit)
Alphacool VPP655 - G1/4 IG complete with D5 HF Top

Primochill PrimoFlex Advanced LRT 1/2" ID - 3/4" OD (13-19mm) Tubing : Elegant White
a ton of black nickel compression fittings
This is the loop order i've got planned out, i think it'll fit! My main priority was to maximise the amount of watercooling i could fit in, while still being able to use all the hard disk mounts

Res mounted on res bracket next to rear of GPUs --> down to pump behind motherboard tray on purpose made bracket --> to front rad --> tube along base of case all the way to rear bottom rad --> long tube all the way to the top rad directly above --> cpu waterblock --> twin GPUs --> sideways to res

Anyone recon this is doable?


----------



## ModernAfro

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roxycon*
> 
> 
> 
> Looks like it is a decent size tho
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> edit: take the fan external instead of removing it completely and still trying to maintain positive air pressure case seems like a dust magnet


I think ill have my setup exactly like the attached pic. keep the fan and i don't see myself removing the GPUs for no reason for some time.


----------



## Jopel

A shipment of cases will get out of the factory early september, cases will be available to vendors late september.


----------



## Sunreeper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Sunreeper*
> 
> What a horrible argument. I don't need to have a good looking rig to know if another's rig looks good or bad I was just stating my opinion anyways.
> 
> 
> 
> Maybe you need to chill a little.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was just asking to see what your system looks like, not argue.
Click to expand...

My apologies I did not intend to sound hostile. When I was referring to an argument I was referring to it in the debate sort of way. Anyways you were obviously asking to see my system to compare it to the one I was critiquing and if it looked worse would somehow invalidate my opinion. Why else would you randomly ask that question? But as I pointed out in my previous quote it doesn't work like that.


----------



## skupples

Just remember this build has the super short 670 pcb's (or something along those lines)

A GK110 PCB will go all the way to that res, with maybe 1-2mm space.

Bottom 2 slots won't fit GK110 if the res plate is on.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sunreeper*
> 
> My apologies I did not intend to sound hostile. When I was referring to an argument I was referring to it in the debate sort of way. Anyways you were obviously asking to see my system to compare it to the one I was critiquing and if it looked worse would somehow invalidate my opinion. Why else would you randomly ask that question? But as I pointed out in my previous quote it doesn't work like that.


I was obviously asking to see pics of your system. That is all. I asked because I was curious what yours looks like. But instead of simply posting pics or saying you don't have any you go off on me asssuming things not said or insinuated. Maybe that's why you would ask to see pics of a persons system but that isn'ts why I asked.

Now you apologize but start doing the same thing all over again.









Are you really that paranoid?


----------



## Sunreeper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Sunreeper*
> 
> My apologies I did not intend to sound hostile. When I was referring to an argument I was referring to it in the debate sort of way. Anyways you were obviously asking to see my system to compare it to the one I was critiquing and if it looked worse would somehow invalidate my opinion. Why else would you randomly ask that question? But as I pointed out in my previous quote it doesn't work like that.
> 
> 
> 
> I was obviously asking to see pics of your system. That is all. I asked because I was curious what yours looks like. But instead of simply posting pics or saying you don't have any you go off on me asssuming things not said or insinuated. Maybe that's why you would ask to see pics of a persons system but that isn'ts why I asked.
> 
> Now you apologize but start doing the same thing all over again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Are you really that paranoid?
Click to expand...

You just said not to assume and now you assume I'm paranoid







. Do you go randomly asking people in threads to see their rig all the time? or is it only after someone's critiqued a rig like I have?


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sunreeper*
> 
> You just said not to assume and now you assume I'm paranoid
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Do you go randomly asking people in threads to see their rig all the time? or is it only after someone's critiqued a rig like I have?


I asked if you were that paranoid. "Randomly asking... all the time"... which is it? Random?. or.. All the time?

Never mind. It's not worth my time.


----------



## Sunreeper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Sunreeper*
> 
> You just said not to assume and now you assume I'm paranoid
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Do you go randomly asking people in threads to see their rig all the time? or is it only after someone's critiqued a rig like I have?
> 
> 
> 
> I asked if you were that paranoid. "Randomly asking... all the time"... which is it? Random?. or.. All the time?
> 
> Never mind. It's not worth my time.
Click to expand...

I can't believe this is what this "discussion" has devolved to. I'm glad though we've derailed this thread far too much but just for your information something can occur randomly and still be frequent/occur all the time


----------



## skupples

Take it to 4chan, twitter, or facebook. This isn't the place for ego-epeen, only tech-epeen.

It's interesting some of the things that ended up not in the finished product... like this...



i know this was never supposed to actually be there, its tech demo, just trying to get back on topic.

Performance-PC's better have this on shelf soon, I'm too cheep to pay for case shipping.


----------



## Roxycon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hereisphilly*
> 
> This is what i've got planned so far then:
> 
> EK Supremacy Clean CSQ Universal CPU Waterblock : Copper Acetal
> 2x Alphacool NexXxoS NVXP Full Cover Waterblock Nvidia GTX680: Brushed Stainless Steel : Black
> 2x Alphacool NexXxoS ATXP Back Plate for Nvidia GTX 680
> 
> Top Rad: Alphacool NexXxoS UT60 420mm Triple Radiator : Full Copper
> 6x Phanteks PH-F140SP 140mm fans in push/pull
> Front Rad: Alphacool NexXxoS ST30 280mm Dual Radiator : Full Copper
> 2x Phanteks PH-F140SP 140mm fans in push
> Bottom Rad: Alphacool NexXxoS UT60 280mm Dual Radiator : Full Copper
> 4x Phanteks PH-F140SP 140mm fans in push/pull
> And an additional rear Phanteks PH-F140SP 140mm fan at the rear
> 
> Phobya Balancer 250 Reservoir Black Nickel mounted on res bracket (if my cards will let it fit)
> Alphacool VPP655 - G1/4 IG complete with D5 HF Top
> 
> Primochill PrimoFlex Advanced LRT 1/2" ID - 3/4" OD (13-19mm) Tubing : Elegant White
> a ton of black nickel compression fittings
> This is the loop order i've got planned out, i think it'll fit! My main priority was to maximise the amount of watercooling i could fit in, while still being able to use all the hard disk mounts
> 
> Res mounted on res bracket next to rear of GPUs --> down to pump behind motherboard tray on purpose made bracket --> to front rad --> tube along base of case all the way to rear bottom rad --> long tube all the way to the top rad directly above --> cpu waterblock --> twin GPUs --> sideways to res
> 
> Anyone recon this is doable?


Sounds great but i think youll have a hard time connecting front rad with both hdd mounts in there, maybe only have one bank, and where are you planning the extra 140 in the back? Two fans stacked makes an aweful noise and i dont think youll be able to fit a fan between the case and the bottom rad at the bottom


----------



## Roxycon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Take it to 4chan, twitter, or facebook. This isn't the place for ego-epeen, only tech-epeen.
> 
> It's interesting some of the things that ended up not in the finished product... like this...
> 
> 
> 
> i know this was never supposed to actually be there, its tech demo, just trying to get back on topic.
> 
> Performance-PC's better have this on shelf soon, I'm too cheep to pay for case shipping.


Hdd cages are still hidden o.o


----------



## Sunreeper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Take it to 4chan, twitter, or facebook. This isn't the place for ego-epeen, only tech-epeen.
> 
> It's interesting some of the things that ended up not in the finished product... like this...
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i know this was never supposed to actually be there, its tech demo, just trying to get back on topic.
> 
> Performance-PC's better have this on shelf soon, I'm too cheep to pay for case shipping.


I forgot about those videos. I actually like the design in the picture you put better than what they have actually implemented but by the looks of the video that was linked here a couple of pages ago it shouldn't be too hard to remove and place something like a reservoir so that it's easily see able through the second window.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sunreeper*
> 
> I forgot about those videos. I actually like the design in the picture you put better than what they have actually implemented but by the looks of the video that was linked here a couple of pages ago it shouldn't be too hard to remove and place something like a reservoir so that it's easily see able through the second window.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roxycon*
> 
> Hdd cages are still hidden o.o


The pic i linked is from a rendered video of the case showing "hidden" HDD's.

The fineprint reads "i fail hard at life, didn't realize it was a rendered hardware demo"

I really wish these companies would sell "no cage" versions of the case at a slightly reduced price. I really hate throwing out stuff i'll never use.


----------



## Roxycon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> The pic i linked is from a rendered video of the case showing "hidden" HDD's.
> 
> The fineprint reads "i fail hard at life, didn't realize it was a rendered hardware demo"


Nonetheless, the perfect place for ssd's










Btw, have any of you guys any experience with walless fans have a cool idea for rad shroud wich involves cutting fans and making hot air coming out of the bottom


----------



## skupples

Seems like removing the wall would greatly reduce performance. I have no idea though. Just speculation.


----------



## Sunreeper

You guys think it would be possible to take out the motherboard tray and flip it so the CPU socket faces down and the GPUs face up? I've seen it done with the 800d and some other cases but that shroud they use to separate the main compartment with the PSU compartment has me worried.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sunreeper*
> 
> You guys think it would be possible to take out the motherboard tray and flip it so the CPU socket faces down and the GPUs face up? I've seen it done with the 800d and some other cases but that shroud they use to separate the main compartment with the PSU compartment has me worried.


That is a great question. Iv'e always assumed those types of builds utilized some sort of after market plate/dremmeling/drilling.

I don't think the motherboard tray is modular.


----------



## Roxycon

Turning down the oc wouldt be that bad of a loss since i didnt notice any difference from 3,2 to 5 ghz when i did that, and it would be 2 of a total of 22 fans if my setup fits, could live with that if it look awesome









And to sunreeper, its too early to say anyting but i think its doable, if youre willing to put the psu in the top.. The design of the shroud would make it impossible to invert it to just the mb unless you make your own internal parts, maybe thats and enthoo v2 though







one could hope

Edit: typos


----------



## dsmwookie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jopel*
> 
> A shipment of cases will get out of the factory early september, cases will be available to vendors late september.


So when will the pre-orders be received?


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dsmwookie*
> 
> So when will the pre-orders be received?


Where have you been able to pre-order?


----------



## jassilamba

Thought I would share a pic of my build, details and full review will be on the www.themodzoo.com


__
http://instagr.am/p/dnSPaOPB86%2F/


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jassilamba*
> 
> Thought I would share a pic of my build, details and full review will be on the www.themodzoo.com
> 
> 
> __
> http://instagr.am/p/dnSPaOPB86%2F/












You should really just use [.url] tabs.

right click

copy url

[.url]adress[./url]

or the 

Besides that, very clean! Ty!
(I'm not trying to be rude, I like your build, very clean)

Your picture is actually how i knew 3 titans would fit in there with a 480 monsta just fine.


----------



## dsmwookie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Where have you been able to pre-order?


I pre-ordered from Phanteks a week ago.


----------



## jassilamba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You should really just use [.url] tabs.
> 
> right click
> 
> copy url
> 
> [.url]adress[./url]
> 
> or the
> 
> Besides that, very clean! Ty!
> (I'm not trying to be rude, I like your build, very clean)
> 
> Your picture is actually how i knew 3 titans would fit in there with a 480 monsta just fine.


I tried the image tag but since its a link to the instagram page and not the actual image it didnt work.

And no sir you are not being rude, nothing wrong in learning a better way to do something.

Thanks for the nice comment, I wanted to get a clean look and create a white and black contrast. I'm a sucker for white...


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jassilamba*
> 
> I tried the image tag but since its a link to the instagram page and not the actual image it didnt work.
> 
> And no sir you are not being rude, nothing wrong in learning a better way to do something.
> 
> Thanks for the nice comment, I wanted to get a clean look and create a white and black contrast. I'm a sucker for white...
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


My only final problem for deciding on this case is that I was planning to run my 3 titans on 350W bios, even with the 1300w i currently have I was planning to dual PSU... Guess that means I would sacrifice a good chunk of rad space in the bottom... Maybe a 280 or 360 would still fit.

Or since the PSU's are sideways, a skinny 480 on it's side.. idk.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dsmwookie*
> 
> I pre-ordered from Phanteks a week ago.


lol, I hadn't gone that deep on the site in so long I didn't realize they sold them, them selves.

What did the shipping come out to?(50 for cheepest right?) I think I rather drive 4 hours (round trip) to Performance-PC's and pick everything up at once. Assuming they stock it and ivy-e on the shelve's quickly.


----------



## jassilamba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> My only final problem for deciding on this case is that I was planning to run my 3 titans on 350W bios, even with the 1300w i currently have I was planning to dual PSU... Guess that means I would sacrifice a good chunk of rad space in the bottom... Maybe a 280 or 360 would still fit.


I think you can do that without loosing any rad space at the bottom. I will address this in the review as I can see 2 PSUs in the case without loosing rad space in the bottom.


----------



## dsmwookie

Yes, shipping was $40-50, but I assumed it would take a couple more weeks for any e-tailers to get them in stock. I ve been itching for a case for some time and wanted to be impatient.


----------



## Hereisphilly

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roxycon*
> 
> Sounds great but i think youll have a hard time connecting front rad with both hdd mounts in there, maybe only have one bank, and where are you planning the extra 140 in the back? Two fans stacked makes an aweful noise and i dont think youll be able to fit a fan between the case and the bottom rad at the bottom


Yeah that was my only concern with the front rad, phanteks say you can fit one with both the HDD cages in, but I couldn't see a way to actually pipe it up!
I was thinking maybe put two 90 degree fittings on it and pipe up from the rear (pump) side?
Or maybe go through the gap under the bracket that the HDD cages sit on? Not sure if it's big enough though.

Oh and my wording on that rear fan probably wasn't the best, all I'm doing is keeping the current fan installed just above the rear mobo io ports


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Take it to 4chan, twitter, or facebook. This isn't the place for ego-epeen, only tech-epeen.


Indeed
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jassilamba*
> 
> Thought I would share a pic of my build, details and full review will be on the www.themodzoo.com
> 
> 
> __
> http://instagr.am/p/dnSPaOPB86%2F/


Black and white are great combo. Looking forward to your review.


----------



## Jopel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dsmwookie*
> 
> So when will the pre-orders be received?


No sooner then end september or early october.
The examples many reviewers received where in fact pre-review examples. Due to minor
adjustments it all got delayed (again). The final product is now ready (a batch is already shipped
out of the factory and it seems those are for more reviews coming up coming weeks).


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jopel*
> 
> No sooner then end september or early october.
> The examples many reviewers received where in fact pre-review examples. Due to minor
> adjustments it all got delayed (again). The final product is now ready (a batch is already shipped
> out of the factory and it seems those are for more reviews coming up coming weeks).


Thanks!








Could you tell us where you got this info?


----------



## Jopel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Could you tell us where you got this info?


From a person directly involved








PM me when not satisfied


----------



## Hereisphilly

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jopel*
> 
> From a person directly involved
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> PM me when not satisfied


Awesome, thanks for the update!
Do you have any idea how phanteks intend For the front 240mm to be piped up with both HDD cages installed?
Any insight would be awesome as I'm trying to get all my gear together before the case arrives, so I'm ready and waiting!


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hereisphilly*
> 
> Awesome, thanks for the update!
> Do you have any idea how phanteks intend For the front 240mm to be piped up with both HDD cages installed?
> Any insight would be awesome as I'm trying to get all my gear together before the case arrives, so I'm ready and waiting!


=D

I got this in yesterday...
titan #3 (LNIB)

let the amassing begin!


----------



## Hereisphilly

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> =D
> 
> I got this in yesterday...
> titan #3 (LNIB)
> 
> let the amassing begin!


Nice! I have to make do with my lowly 680s :-( what else u got coming in?

I'm hoping to shoot big with my 1st time water cooling build, so I've got plenty of thermal headroom when nvidia's 8 series come out
(Can't really afford dual 780s, dual 770s don't warrant much of a boost over dual 680s, and a single 780 is slower)


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hereisphilly*
> 
> Nice! I have to make do with my lowly 680s :-( what else u got coming in?
> 
> I'm hoping to shoot big with my 1st time water cooling build, so I've got plenty of thermal headroom when nvidia's 8 series come out
> (Can't really afford dual 780s, dual 770s don't warrant much of a boost over dual 680s, and a single 780 is slower)


Waiting on Ivy-E and POSSIBLY another 2011 revamp from some one?

It's a rebuild more then a whole build. So, just the odds and ends,

480 Acool MoNsTa!!! w/ HIGH rpm PWM fans via the Swiftech pwm hub.

32 gigs of Corsair dom plat. I'm on FREE ram right now, so i figure go big or go home. I haven't actually spent money on ram in years.

better lighting, tubing, possibly all new fittings if budget allows, and dual psu's rigged together.(already have those)

So, i'm hoping for good news about dual PSU's... I kinda wanted to do 2 480's all w/ high rpm pwm, and no other rads. That's what iv'e been envisioning since i saw the demo video.


----------



## Hereisphilly

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Waiting on Ivy-E and POSSIBLY another 2011 revamp from some one?
> 
> It's a rebuild more then a whole build. So, just the odds and ends,
> 
> 480 Acool MoNsTa!!! w/ HIGH rpm PWM fans via the Swiftech pwm hub.
> 
> 32 gigs of Corsair dom plat. I'm on FREE ram right now, so i figure go big or go home. I haven't actually spent money on ram in years.
> 
> better lighting, tubing, possibly all new fittings if budget allows, and dual psu's rigged together.(already have those)
> 
> So, i'm hoping for good news about dual PSU's... I kinda wanted to do 2 480's all w/ high rpm pwm, and no other rads. That's what iv'e been envisioning since i saw the demo video.


I liked the look of dual 480s too, but I really wanted to try 140mm fans, especially the phanteks ones, as I want to go for a whisper quiet rig!
So that's what I'm doing, 420 in the roof (surface area is higher than a 480), then a 280 in the floor, and hopefully that 240 in the front

God I can't wait for the case to come!


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hereisphilly*
> 
> I liked the look of dual 480s too, but I really wanted to try 140mm fans, especially the phanteks ones, as I want to go for a whisper quiet rig!
> So that's what I'm doing, 420 in the roof (surface area is higher than a 480), then a 280 in the floor, and hopefully that 240 in the front
> 
> God I can't wait for the case to come!


Almost the same here but still not sure will go with 420 on top or 480. I already have 2 240 mm rads and one 280 mm rad. Those go in front and bottom. I am only missing the top rad and was thinking first the same as you (420 mm) but now I am inclined to a 480 mm due to fan availability....


----------



## Sunreeper

If it helps corsair has said that they're in development of 140mm sp fans for radiators but I do also wish there would be better 140mm rad fans


----------



## Hereisphilly

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Almost the same here but still not sure will go with 420 on top or 480. I already have 2 240 mm rads and one 280 mm rad. Those go in front and bottom. I am only missing the top rad and was thinking first the same as you (420 mm) but now I am inclined to a 480 mm due to fan availability....


I was told by phanteks customer service that the PH-F140SP 140mm Fans would be available before the case, and the specs are really good! Good static pressure and low noise, besides phanteks know how to make fans.
I've ordered 7 extra with the case, bringing me up to 13..., all I need now is another pwm hub and I'm set


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hereisphilly*
> 
> I liked the look of dual 480s too, but I really wanted to try 140mm fans, especially the phanteks ones, as I want to go for a whisper quiet rig!
> So that's what I'm doing, 420 in the roof (surface area is higher than a 480), then a 280 in the floor, and hopefully that 240 in the front
> 
> God I can't wait for the case to come!


My plan B is to utilize one or both of my current rads. 360 (possibly modded into the front) and my 240... idk.


----------



## Roxycon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Waiting on Ivy-E and POSSIBLY another 2011 revamp from some one?
> 
> It's a rebuild more then a whole build. So, just the odds and ends,
> 
> 480 Acool MoNsTa!!! w/ HIGH rpm PWM fans via the Swiftech pwm hub.
> 
> 32 gigs of Corsair dom plat. I'm on FREE ram right now, so i figure go big or go home. I haven't actually spent money on ram in years.
> 
> better lighting, tubing, possibly all new fittings if budget allows, and dual psu's rigged together.(already have those)
> 
> So, i'm hoping for good news about dual PSU's... I kinda wanted to do 2 480's all w/ high rpm pwm, and no other rads. That's what iv'e been envisioning since i saw the demo video.


i have seen someone modding their PSU into the ODD chambers in a original phantom case, maybe you should do that so you could have both the 480's


----------



## ACE2K8

Can some one please tell me where can i buy this case.


----------



## 6steven9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ACE2K8*
> 
> Can some one please tell me where can i buy this case.


not available yet this month though you can pre-order it in america and uk and it will be the usual e-retailers sometime this month just check the site www.phanteks.com


----------



## ACE2K8

So where can i preorder it i am going to die if i dont get this case lol


----------



## 6steven9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ACE2K8*
> 
> So where can i preorder it i am going to die if i dont get this case lol


http://www.phanteksusa.com/products/phanteks-enthoo-primo in the US not sure about UK and you can't in Canada


----------



## doyll

Overclockers UK is taking pre-orders
http://www.overclockers.co.uk/showproduct.php?prodid=CA-000-PT


----------



## 6steven9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jopel*
> 
> No sooner then end september or early october.
> The examples many reviewers received where in fact pre-review examples. Due to minor
> adjustments it all got delayed (again). The final product is now ready (a batch is already shipped
> out of the factory and it seems those are for more reviews coming up coming weeks).


You have any details on what they changed to cause the delay i mean this was supposed to be released in july........Reviews were pretty much perfect other then the reservoir mounting bracket getting in the way of long graphics cards which i think they can't fix b/c would have to make the case longer and that some parts had rivits and screws might be able to remove the rivits....


----------



## skupples

The only major flaw people were pointing out was the inside res mount plate required drilling for many different tube res sizes.

It would be nice to see the case come out 1-2 inches longer, but I highly doubt that's the case... This must be fine tuning post review samples.


----------



## Roxycon

http://themodzoo.com/forum/index.php?/page/articles.html/_/reviews/cases/phanteks-enthoo-primo-full-tower-review-r67

Great news! Even with a monsta 480 in p/p config in the bottom one can utilize the top 3,5" hdd cage







too bad the case isnt ~20mm higher a maximum of 60 mm thick rad before hitting the motherboard


----------



## doyll

Been waiting for Jesse's review.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roxycon*
> 
> http://themodzoo.com/forum/index.php?/page/articles.html/_/reviews/cases/phanteks-enthoo-primo-full-tower-review-r67
> 
> Great news! Even with a monsta 480 in p/p config in the bottom one can utilize the top 3,5" hdd cage
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> too bad the case isnt ~20mm higher a maximum of 60 mm thick rad before hitting the motherboard


Hey, he fixed his parallel for the picture! (didnt know he was mod zoo)

I REALLY want 2 480's. and two psu's. Maybe i'll have to settle for 2 420's.


----------



## Roxycon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Hey, he fixed his parallel for the picture! (didnt know he was mod zoo)
> 
> I REALLY want 2 480's. and two psu's. Maybe i'll have to settle for 2 420's.


Do all of us a favor, mod that baby and keep the 480's







i for one is thinking of modding the hdd cage to accomodate two 480's with the 240 on the included bracket.. Gonna end up with just one fan without a radiator attached


----------



## doyll

ModZoo's review and water cooling build! Great job Jesse! Very nice review!








http://themodzoo.com/forum/index.php?/page/articles.html/_/reviews/cases/phanteks-enthoo-primo-full-tower-review-r67


----------



## jassilamba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Hey, he fixed his parallel for the picture! (didnt know he was mod zoo)
> 
> I REALLY want 2 480's. and two psu's. Maybe i'll have to settle for 2 420's.


If you read the review I answered your question on dual psus and 2 480s
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> ModZoo's review and water cooling build! Great job Jesse! Very nice review!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://themodzoo.com/forum/index.php?/page/articles.html/_/reviews/cases/phanteks-enthoo-primo-full-tower-review-r67


Thank you sir. Feel free to post your questions over at the zoo.

Thanks.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Well, I've just pre-ordered it. Now I can't hardly wait.

I just read a comment at the zoo that Phanteks are charging those pre-orders to people's accounts right away, which doesn't really bother me if they do as long as my case isn't going to be delayed much past the end of Sept or early Oct, but that's not exactly how most businesses operate. I'm not even sure it's a legal practice in a lot of places.

This will be my first watercool build and I'm all but dead-set on putting a 280 monsta in the bottom and a 60mm 480 up top, both with a push/pull. That'll let me keep all of the HDD cages and 5.25 bays intact, all of which I want to make use of, and it's overkill cooling for my needs. I'm thinking it should let me fit my 760s in sli and still make use of the reservoir bracket / shroud for hiding the cables since my cards aren't near as long as Jesse's titans.

I see in Jesse's review he couldn't fit a 60mm think 420 up top with room for any fans below to clear his mobo, but just from eyeballing it in the first video with MonsterMawd and the pics in Jesse's review at the zoo I'm pretty sure 120mm wide 480 will be offset enough from the mobo for some push fans. Unless/Until I see evidence to the contrary I'm counting on it.

Haven't settled on what fans, waterblocks, tubing, fittings, etc I'm going to go with yet, or even what mobo / cpu for that matter, but it's going to take a couple months at least before I have everything I need to get it going. I'll probably have to wait to see how much they're going to be wanting for these new Ivy E boards and chips before I make my mind up.


----------



## Roxycon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Well, I've just pre-ordered it. Now I can't hardly wait.
> 
> I just read a comment at the zoo that Phanteks are charging those pre-orders to people's accounts right away, which doesn't really bother me if they do as long as my case isn't going to be delayed much past the end of Sept or early Oct, but that's not exactly how most businesses operate. I'm not even sure it's a legal practice in a lot of places.
> 
> This will be my first watercool build and I'm all but dead-set on putting a 280 monsta in the bottom and a 60mm 480 up top, both with a push/pull. That'll let me keep all of the HDD cages and 5.25 bays intact, all of which I want to make use of, and it's overkill cooling for my needs. I'm thinking it should let me fit my 760s in sli and still make use of the reservoir bracket / shroud for hiding the cables since my cards aren't near as long as Jesse's titans.
> 
> I see in Jesse's review he couldn't fit a 60mm think 420 up top with room for any fans below to clear his mobo, but just from eyeballing it in the first video with MonsterMawd and the pics in Jesse's review at the zoo I'm pretty sure 120mm wide 480 will be offset enough from the mobo for some push fans. Unless/Until I see evidence to the contrary I'm counting on it.
> 
> Haven't settled on what fans, waterblocks, tubing, fittings, etc I'm going to go with yet, or even what mobo / cpu for that matter, but it's going to take a couple months at least before I have everything I need to get it going. I'll probably have to wait to see how much they're going to be wanting for these new Ivy E boards and chips before I make my mind up.


Great to see that im not the only one going from a cosmos2 to a enthoo









its ~10mm offset so try to measure up with the mb before ordering, atleast the push set of fans, or the whole rad/wc gear.. If youre going for the ivy e, the boards is pretty much like x79. You could use the scythe 12 mm thick fans tho slim fans i have one of them in my top 360 ut30 rad to clear the 8pin cpu on the sabertooth z77, cant hear any difference between them and normal thickness 120 mm fans @ 1200rpm


----------



## skupples

4820k Is catching my eye pretty good... Though, i my splurge and just got for the 4930k... Ivy-E is getting reviews of running REALLY hot... Not a surprise with dye shrink.

http://www.anandtech.com/show/7255/intel-core-i7-4960x-ivy-bridge-e-review

here is a review of the 4960x... They claimed it got upto 90 degrees under one little rad under prime95 torture, not really a surprise, but definitely something i'm weary of. The review says a "180mm rad" but i'm going to assume thats a typo for 280mm


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roxycon*
> 
> [...]
> its ~10mm offset so try to measure up with the mb before ordering, atleast the push set of fans, or the whole rad/wc gear.. If youre going for the ivy e, the boards is pretty much like x79. You could use the scythe 12 mm thick fans tho slim fans i have one of them in my top 360 ut30 rad to clear the 8pin cpu on the sabertooth z77, cant hear any difference between them and normal thickness 120 mm fans @ 1200rpm


120mm rads (240, 360, 480) will be 10mm more offset from the mobo than 140mm rads (280, 420) but there's already a lot more than 10mm offset to start with.

From these screenshots below I grabbed from the first video review of the case by Bill (MonsterMawd) & Jesse (themodzoo) these images suggest to me that there ought to be about 25mm-30mm room between the rad and the mobo with a 140mm Rad, and you can add 10mm to that for a 120mm rad.





Taking into consideration that Jesse writes in his review that there's already ~70mm of clearance from the top of the case to the top of the mobo to start with, I really think that unless it's a mobo with a really tall heat sync or high profile ram, etc, there really shouldn't be any major clearance issues with most mobos to run a 60mm thick rad that would leave you with ~10-15mm of a ~25mm thick push fan extending down past the top of the mobo.

I guess it would be nice to get an actual confirmation that there's going to be enough room to mount some push fans on a 60mm 480 up top but unless/until I hear otherwise I'm planning on going forward with the assumption that I can make it work. I won't know for sure until I settle on what mobo I'll be running in it. If it turns out I can't, then I guess I'll have to settle for a 45mm 480 instead.


----------



## dsmwookie

I received a product review email for my recent purchase....it feels like a sick joke


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> 120mm rads (240, 360, 480) will be 10mm more offset from the mobo than 140mm rads (280, 420) but there's already a lot more than 10mm offset to start with.
> 
> From these screenshots below I grabbed from the first video review of the case by Bill (MonsterMawd) & Jesse (themodzoo) these images suggest to me that there ought to be about 25mm-30mm room between the rad and the mobo with a 140mm Rad, and you can add 10mm to that for a 120mm rad.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Taking into consideration that Jesse writes in his review that there's already ~70mm of clearance from the top of the case to the top of the mobo to start with, I really think that unless it's a mobo with a really tall heat sync or high profile ram, etc, there really shouldn't be any major clearance issues with most mobos to run a 60mm thick rad that would leave you with ~10-15mm of a ~25mm thick push fan extending down past the top of the mobo.
> 
> I guess it would be nice to get an actual confirmation that there's going to be enough room to mount some push fans on a 60mm 480 up top but unless/until I hear otherwise I'm planning on going forward with the assumption that I can make it work. I won't know for sure until I settle on what mobo I'll be running in it. If it turns out I can't, then I guess I'll have to settle for a 45mm 480 instead.


I see it not as a clearance issue but a cooling issue for motherboard heatsink... a lack of airflow because the radiator/fan combo are over the heatsink.


----------



## jassilamba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> 120mm rads (240, 360, 480) will be 10mm more offset from the mobo than 140mm rads (280, 420) but there's already a lot more than 10mm offset to start with.
> 
> From these screenshots below I grabbed from the first video review of the case by Bill (MonsterMawd) & Jesse (themodzoo) these images suggest to me that there ought to be about 25mm-30mm room between the rad and the mobo with a 140mm Rad, and you can add 10mm to that for a 120mm rad.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Taking into consideration that Jesse writes in his review that there's already ~70mm of clearance from the top of the case to the top of the mobo to start with, I really think that unless it's a mobo with a really tall heat sync or high profile ram, etc, there really shouldn't be any major clearance issues with most mobos to run a 60mm thick rad that would leave you with ~10-15mm of a ~25mm thick push fan extending down past the top of the mobo.
> 
> I guess it would be nice to get an actual confirmation that there's going to be enough room to mount some push fans on a 60mm 480 up top but unless/until I hear otherwise I'm planning on going forward with the assumption that I can make it work. I won't know for sure until I settle on what mobo I'll be running in it. If it turns out I can't, then I guess I'll have to settle for a 45mm 480 instead.


Got some good news for you. As long as you are not using a RAM like the dominator, you will have no issues running a 60mm thick 480 rad. I just tested it out with 2 fans stacked together and had no clearance issues. Of course you would have to get the CPU power and ram in place before mounting the fans on the inside.


----------



## Sunreeper

Any chance at a 60mm with push pull or an 80mm up top?


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jassilamba*
> 
> Got some good news for you. As long as you are not using a RAM like the dominator, you will have no issues running a 60mm thick 480 rad. I just tested it out with 2 fans stacked together and had no clearance issues. Of course you would have to get the CPU power and ram in place before mounting the fans on the inside.


That is VERY good news. Thanks.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sunreeper*
> 
> Any chance at a 60mm with push pull or an 80mm up top?


Jesse just confirmed in the post above yours that unless you're running very high profile memory there should be no issues running a 60mm 120mm rad (240, 360, 480) up top in a push pull.

I suppose that means you might even be able to pull off an 80mm rad in push/pull up there too as long as there's nothing on your board taller than your ram, but that 80mm rad & standard ~25mm fan would overlap the top of the mobo by about ~35mm or more, so I suspect there's a lot of boards that wouldn't let you pull that off for one reason or another.

Personally, even if an 80mm rad would fit up top in a push/pull, I'm not sure I would want the entire top heat sink and maybe even the top of the CPU to be tucked up behind the fans on my rad. I guess if I was hurting for the extra cooling capacity I'd shove as much rad anywhere I could get away with it to heck with all else, but this enthoo primo gives you so many radiator placement possibilities it's insane.


----------



## Idef1x

Check out this video. It shows a tons of different rad configurations:









Very interesting indeed.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Idef1x*
> 
> Check out this video. It shows a tons of different rad configurations:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Very interesting indeed.


Yeah, here's the English version:





Phanteks put that video out 3 months ago and has had me (and a LOT of others around here and elsewhere) drooling over all the possibilities ever since. Jesse's watercool setup / review at themodzoo & the vids he did with monstermawd are what sealed the deal for me.

Now I impatiently await the case's arrival, but that just gives me a little time to start stockpiling all the pieces for the new build. Looks like I'm going to be broke & hungry for the next few months. lol


----------



## Hereisphilly

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Yeah, here's the English version:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Phanteks put that video out 3 months ago and has had me (and a LOT of others around here and elsewhere) drooling over all the possibilities ever since. Jesse's watercool setup / review at themodzoo & the vids he did with monstermawd are what sealed the deal for me.
> 
> Now I impatiently await the case's arrival, but that just gives me a little time to start stockpiling all the pieces for the new build. Looks like I'm going to be broke & hungry for the next few months. lol


Haha, join the stockpiling club!
Phase 1 was delivered to me yesterday


----------



## skupples

=D My phase one showed up last week... Titan #3!

I just... Really need to see how dual PSU is going to work in this case... I guess I could NOT be lazy and do some E-measuring. Possibly still fit a 420 in the bottom with dual psu.. maybe... But idk if the case will be able to hold all that extra wiring.

This case is a perfect candidate for a pedestal. Time to go harass the people in Artisan market... See if we can get some one making Pedestals for these.


----------



## Hereisphilly

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> 
> 
> =D My phase one showed up last week... Titan #3!
> 
> I just... Really need to see how dual PSU is going to work in this case... I guess I could NOT be lazy and do some E-measuring. Possibly still fit a 420 in the bottom with dual psu.. maybe... But idk if the case will be able to hold all that extra wiring.
> 
> This case is a perfect candidate for a pedestal. Time to go harass the people in Artisan market... See if we can get some one making Pedestals for these.


A pedestal is a great idea!
I would cram 2 480s in it and have EVEN MOAR RADS! (Man I have the watercooling bug now...)

On a completely unrelated note, if there is anyone out there thinking of buying any hardware with memory chips in them (GPU, SSDs, RAM) may i suggest doing so now before prices skyrocket (anyone remember what happened with hard disks), as there has been a massive explosion at a Hynxix Fab today
http://www.kitguru.net/components/memory/faith/far-east-memory-shipments-on-hold-after-hynix-explosions/


----------



## jassilamba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> 
> 
> =D My phase one showed up last week... Titan #3!
> 
> I just... Really need to see how dual PSU is going to work in this case... I guess I could NOT be lazy and do some E-measuring. Possibly still fit a 420 in the bottom with dual psu.. maybe... But idk if the case will be able to hold all that extra wiring.
> 
> This case is a perfect candidate for a pedestal. Time to go harass the people in Artisan market... See if we can get some one making Pedestals for these.


You can get 2 PSUs in there with just a little modding. take a look here.

http://themodzoo.com/forum/index.php?/page/articles.html/_/reviews/cases/phanteks-enthoo-primo-full-tower-review-r67?pg=4

Please excuse my putting the link as is as the PCs at work disable some add ins and I do not get any advanced options at all when posting.


----------



## doyll

Jesse says with a right angle power cable adapter and miner modifications a 2nd PSU can fit in front of case in his build. Here's his image of an AX 1200i and a Seasonic X-1050 power supply. Second image is the 420 radiator behind where PSU was setting.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hereisphilly*
> 
> A pedestal is a great idea!
> I would cram 2 480s in it and have EVEN MOAR RADS! (Man I have the watercooling bug now...)
> 
> On a completely unrelated note, if there is anyone out there thinking of buying any hardware with memory chips in them (GPU, SSDs, RAM) may i suggest doing so now before prices skyrocket (anyone remember what happened with hard disks), as there has been a massive explosion at a Hynxix Fab today
> http://www.kitguru.net/components/memory/faith/far-east-memory-shipments-on-hold-after-hynix-explosions/










That is really bad news.....How long is going to take to recover prices.....


----------



## Hereisphilly

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That is really bad news.....How long is going to take to recover prices.....


No idea, but its a pretty serious explosion, the report says 15% of the worlds supply has been knocked out, so god knows what that is going to do to prices
Thank god I already have all my components, just awaiting w/c gear now


----------



## doyll

I suspect the competition will easily be able to increase production by 15% means there should be no change in prices. Notice I said "should."


----------



## ModernAfro

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> I suspect the competition will easily be able to increase production by 15% means there should be no change in prices. Notice I said "should."


you said "should" what you should have said is "hope"







lol they'll use any means to squeeze every dime out of the customer. lol


----------



## doyll

It 'should' not effect prices and I 'hope' it doesn't.


----------



## ModernAfro

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> It 'should' not effect prices and I 'hope' it doesn't.


bawhahahaha you and me both!!!


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

OK, since this Enthoo Primo will be my first watercool build (I've had a couple H100is before, but they don't count) I've been spending a lot of time figuring out just how I'm going to set this bad boy up. I have a question that probably would be better asked in a different topic pertaining to watercooling, but since I figure it's a pretty simple question and pertains to my build in this case I thought I might find an answer here, besides I have my first hi-tek blueprint drawn up of my future beast, and I'm awful proud of it (it's going on the fridge







).



Since this port in what will soon be my monsta rad will be the lowest point of my loop, it seems like the ideal place to drain the entire system from. Does anyone sell a drain plug (petcock) that would screw in there with a piece of hose attached to it for drainage purposes? I was thinking of something like a car radiator typically has?

Oh, and yeah, I'll actually be mounting the pump behind the mobo on the incl bracket. I just drew it at the bottom of the res in that pic just to illustrate the direction of flow for my planned loop.


----------



## ModernAfro

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> OK, since this Enthoo Primo will be my first watercool build (I've had a couple H100is before, but they don't count) I've been spending a lot of time figuring out just how I'm going to set this bad boy up. I have a question that probably would be better asked in a different topic pertaining to watercooling, but since I figure it's a pretty simple question and pertains to my build in this case I thought I might find an answer here, besides I have my first hi-tek blueprint drawn up of my future beast, and I'm awful proud of it (it's going on the fridge
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ).
> 
> 
> 
> Since this port in what will soon be my monsta rad will be the lowest point of my loop, it seems like the ideal place to drain the entire system from. Does anyone sell a drain plug (petcock) that would screw in there with a piece of hose attached to it for drainage purposes? I was thinking of something like a car radiator typically has?
> 
> Oh, and yeah, I'll actually be mounting the pump behind the mobo on the incl bracket. I just drew it at the bottom of the res in that pic just to illustrate the direction of flow for my planned loop.


Good question..... i'm new to w/c and i would also like to know since mine will be the same set up. (except with a 480 on the bottom)


----------



## jassilamba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> OK, since this Enthoo Primo will be my first watercool build (I've had a couple H100is before, but they don't count) I've been spending a lot of time figuring out just how I'm going to set this bad boy up. I have a question that probably would be better asked in a different topic pertaining to watercooling, but since I figure it's a pretty simple question and pertains to my build in this case I thought I might find an answer here, besides I have my first hi-tek blueprint drawn up of my future beast, and I'm awful proud of it (it's going on the fridge
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ).
> 
> 
> 
> Since this port in what will soon be my monsta rad will be the lowest point of my loop, it seems like the ideal place to drain the entire system from. Does anyone sell a drain plug (petcock) that would screw in there with a piece of hose attached to it for drainage purposes? I was thinking of something like a car radiator typically has?
> 
> Oh, and yeah, I'll actually be mounting the pump behind the mobo on the incl bracket. I just drew it at the bottom of the res in that pic just to illustrate the direction of flow for my planned loop.


That is a good plan I would recommend the following to make it look cleaner.

My changes in green (I cannot insert images or URL from my browsers at work)

Image link---

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-3PVHw2c3kc0/UiepMqEYMpI/AAAAAAAAGkA/JoFB2M6XaJQ/s467/350x700px-LL-2944f4ef_primo.jpeg

For the drain port you can get a 3 way fitting like this - http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_346_951&products_id=38338

and get drain port like this - http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_346_393_623&products_id=32810

I would also get a rotary extender to make connecting the 3 way to the rad easy (male to male rotary adapter) - http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&manufacturers_id=&products_id=24862


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

That's exactly the kind of answer I was hoping to get. Thanks again Jesse.


----------



## Roxycon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jassilamba*
> 
> That is a good plan I would recommend the following to make it look cleaner.
> 
> My changes in green (I cannot insert images or URL from my browsers at work)
> 
> Image link---
> 
> https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-3PVHw2c3kc0/UiepMqEYMpI/AAAAAAAAGkA/JoFB2M6XaJQ/s467/350x700px-LL-2944f4ef_primo.jpeg
> 
> For the drain port you can get a 3 way fitting like this - http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_346_951&products_id=38338
> 
> and get drain port like this - http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_346_393_623&products_id=32810
> 
> I would also get a rotary extender to make connecting the 3 way to the rad easy (male to male rotary adapter) - http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&manufacturers_id=&products_id=24862


Get a blind plug for the othe side of the valve for added security so you dont accidentally spill koolant if somthing hits the valve knob


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roxycon*
> 
> Get a blind plug for the othe side of the valve for added security so you dont accidentally spill koolant if somthing hits the valve knob


That's probably a good idea too, but kind of defeats the purpose of having the ease of a valve. As long as the valve is dependable & wouldn't leak (not much purpose for it in the first place if it would), it looks like would stay completely hidden behind that cover in front of the HDDs where I would probably never be messing around with anything near it otherwise. I don't know, having the double assurance against a leak would probably be a good thing in any case. I'm going to be using primochill's rigid colored tubing and just distilled water. No coolants or dyes or anything like that, so I don't expect to be draining the thing very often.

From the looks of it I'll be able to install a fitting with a hose, the valve, and just run enough the hose up the side of the HDD cages out of view of everything that I can pull it out to a level below the bottom of case to drain it if/when needed. Now that I think about it I'm not sure why I would need the 3-way or a rotary extender like Jesse suggested since the hose coming from that port would only be used for draining purposes, it's not going to go to anything else.

- - - -
On another thought. I just realized that if you move the HDD cages to the position closest to the front, there's actually room for a 360 monsta in the bottom without losing any of the HDD capacity. Hmmmm? That'd be ~10% more surface area than a 280, plus as I'm just finding out figuring/pricing everything, there's not nearly as many choices of high static pressure fans in 140mm as there are 120s. Not sure that running a 360 instead of the 280 I've been contemplating would leave me any room to use the drain port on that end though. It looks like it would be a pretty tight fit judging from the picture below.



I guess there's a possibility there might still be room next to or just on this side of the HDD cages for a 90 deg fitting to run it straight up from the 360's drain port, but I guess I won't be able to tell that until I actually get the case.

That, or maybe I will have to add that rotary and 3 way like Jesse suggested and add it next to the pump(s) behind the mobo tray next to the PSU, as that'll also be a similarly low point in my loop.

Decisions. Decisions.


----------



## Roxycon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> - - - -
> On another thought. I just realized that if you move the HDD cages to the position closest to the front, there's actually room for a 360 monsta in the bottom without losing any of the HDD capacity. Hmmmm? That'd be ~10% more surface area than a 280, plus as I'm just finding out figuring/pricing everything, there's not nearly as many choices of high static pressure fans in 140mm as there are 120s. Not sure that running a 360 instead of the 280 I've been contemplating would leave me any room to use the drain port on that end though. It looks like it would be a pretty tight fit judging from the picture below.
> 
> I guess there's a possibility there might still be room next to or just on this side of the HDD cages for a 90 deg fitting to run it straight up from the 360's drain port, but I guess I won't be able to tell that until I actually get the case.


the monsta has 6 ports on the one side and one of them are 180 degrees against the rest of the rad, i would get an extender Like this cut a hole through the psu2 bracket and then install the valve on the outside, those valves are so sexy youll not even notice them


----------



## jassilamba

A plug with a Valve is a good idea in case you forget to close the valve, and trust me a lof of water coolers have done that at some point. So that is like plan B, last thing you want is water all over the place.

On the rads, you will be better off with some 120mm rads as the fan choices for 140mm are not that great. You could still get a 280, and get 120mm to 140mm fan adapters that way you can get the performance of a 280 with 120mm fans.


----------



## Roxycon

Review by TweakTown


----------



## ModernAfro

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roxycon*
> 
> Review by TweakTown


Geez! 99%! Why cant they release it already!


----------



## Hereisphilly

God why do we have to wait so long! I now have everything here just waiting till my preorder on OCUK and 7 more phanteks fans...


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hereisphilly*
> 
> God why do we have to wait so long! I now have everything here just waiting till my preorder on OCUK and 7 more phanteks fans...


I know that feeling. I don't have anywhere near everything I want to put in it, nor will I even by the time they do ship my pre-ordered Enthoo Primo to me, but it sure doesn't stop me from wishing it was on its way already.

Last I heard from the Phanteks live chat support person on phanteksusa.com was they were due to start shipping toward the end of Sept or early Oct. I wish they could be more specific than that. One of the moderators of Phanteks' 'The Club' forum posted this:

http://phanteks.com/forum/showthread.php?114-Phanteks-Online-Shop
Quote:


> Your order will be shipped from the first shipment we receive. Because we have not received the cases yet, we can not ship any of the orders. I am trying to talk to the boss to include a free gift for our first orders to somewhat compensate for the wait. (The wait is killing me too.) But you can be sure you will be one of the first people to receive your case.


Soooo, maybe those of us who have already pre-ordered the case will receive a "free gift"? I sure hope so especially now that the moderator has put that in my head, as if just the wait wasn't already killing me. lol

FYI:
Jesse has added a FAQ at the end of the Enthoo Primo watercooling build review at the zoo for replies to all of the questions he keeps getting asked about the case:
http://themodzoo.com/forum/index.php?/page/articles.html/_/reviews/cases/phanteks-enthoo-primo-full-tower-review-r67?pg=8


----------



## jassilamba

@Unicr0nhunter, thanks for putting the link to the FAQ here. If I missed any questions, please feel free to send me a PM or leave a comment over at the zoo.

Things I plan on addressing:

1. PWM fan hub max load capacity.

Also I replaced the plate in the lower front panel to make the airflow better for the front fans..


----------



## skupples

I just don' think I have enough room in this case to do what I want to do... Yes, It can hold Daul PSU, three video cards, and an lga2011 board... But all the raddage needed to cool that stuff to the point that makes water cooling effective would basically remove all storage capacity besides the dual SSD slots.

=( I don't want a 900D, but it's the biggest cheapest monolith on the market.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> I just don' think I have enough room in this case to do what I want to do... Yes, It can hold Daul PSU, three video cards, and an lga2011 board... But all the raddage needed to cool that stuff to the point that makes water cooling effective would basically remove all storage capacity besides the dual SSD slots.
> 
> =( I don't want a 900D, but it's the biggest cheapest monolith on the market.


Buy this thing:

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/3040/noi-05/FrozenCPU_HDD_Noise_Reduction_System.html?id=Zp8AXVIS&mv_pc=197

I got 3 for the HD's which leave me one 5.25 bay for dvd and another for the fan controller. My pumps are not bay based so that's is the best of worlds. I can put 2x 480 mm + 2 x 240 mm or 1x 480 mm 1x 280mm and 2x 240 mm and still have 4 ssd's and 3 mechanical drives and plenty of space for pumps and reservoirs. Plenty of room for my goals.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roxycon*
> 
> [...] Unfortinatly, it seems like you have to take off the ODD panel to install a 480 rad at the bottom, and to me thats sadly a dealbreaker.. Waiting to see other reviewers with less eager to pull all the pieces apart


I realize this is an older comment on this topic, but it probably should be pointed out that (1) the ODD panel isn't affected at all by a rad in the bottom (assume this was just a typo error), and (2) there are two HDD cages in the Enthoo Primo that hold 3 HDDs each. Each HDD cage is separately removable and in order to fit a 480 rad in the bottom front only the bottom HDD cage needs to be removed. The top cage can just hang - it doesn't need the lower one for support. Even an 80mm thick 480 Monsta in push/pull will fit on the bottom without affecting the top HDD cage (see the animated GIF I made from Phantek's 'Watercooling possibilities' video posted below). Jesse noted in his review that there is almost 160mm of space from the bottom before you will hit the bottom of the top HDD cage



FYI: In addition to the HDD cages, the case also comes with 2 separate SSD brackets which hold 2 SSDs each and have mounts elsewhere other than the HDD cages. If/when Phanteks offers them separately. there's an extra mounting spot for another SSD bracket, so even with 480 rads top and bottom you have room for 3HDDs and 6 SSDs without having to mod anything to make room for more.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> I just don' think I have enough room in this case to do what I want to do... Yes, It can hold Daul PSU, three video cards, and an lga2011 board... But all the raddage needed to cool that stuff to the point that makes water cooling effective would basically remove all storage capacity besides the dual SSD slots


You can fit a 60mm thick 480 rad up top (maybe even an 80mm 480 monsta up top, see the next page or so of comments) and definitely an 80mm thick 480 rad on the bottom, both in a push/pull, and still keep the top 3 HDD cage. I would think that would be more than enough "raddage" to "cool that stuff". ;-)


----------



## Hereisphilly

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> I know that feeling. I don't have anywhere near everything I want to put in it, nor will I even by the time they do ship my pre-ordered Enthoo Primo to me, but it sure doesn't stop me from wishing it was on its way already.
> 
> Last I heard from the Phanteks live chat support person on phanteksusa.com was they were due to start shipping toward the end of Sept or early Oct. I wish they could be more specific than that. One of the moderators of Phanteks' 'The Club' forum posted this:
> 
> http://phanteks.com/forum/showthread.php?114-Phanteks-Online-Shop
> Soooo, maybe those of us who have already pre-ordered the case will receive a "free gift"? I sure hope so especially now that the moderator has put that in my head, as if just the wait wasn't already killing me. lol
> 
> FYI:
> Jesse has added a FAQ at the end of the Enthoo Primo watercooling build review at the zoo for replies to all of the questions he keeps getting asked about the case:
> http://themodzoo.com/forum/index.php?/page/articles.html/_/reviews/cases/phanteks-enthoo-primo-full-tower-review-r67?pg=8


OCUK has the ship date down as 04/10/13, which is annoying, but all we can do is wait...
On another note, I just sneaked in under the returns date for my Alphacool 420 UT60, as going by Jesse's writeup, Im really not sure if i can set it up with Push/pull in the roof, so i'm now waiting to get the case in my hands to see how much space i have with my Z87-UD5H. I'm confident, just not 100%, hence the return. My heatsink is nowhere as tall as the EVGA Dark, but i didnt wanna be stuck with the rad


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> I realize this is an older comment on this topic, but it probably should be pointed out that (1) the ODD panel isn't affected at all by a rad in the bottom (assume this was just a typo error), and (2) there are two HDD cages in the Enthoo Primo that hold 3 HDDs each. Each HDD cage is separately removable and in order to fit a 480 rad in the bottom front only the bottom HDD cage needs to be removed. The top cage can just hang - it doesn't need the lower one for support. Even an 80mm thick 480 Monsta in push/pull will fit on the bottom without affecting the top HDD cage (see the animated GIF I made from Phantek's 'Watercooling possibilities' video posted below). Jesse noted in his review that there is almost 160mm of space from the bottom before you will hit the bottom of the top HDD cage
> 
> 
> 
> FYI: In addition to the HDD cages, the case also comes with 2 separate SSD brackets which hold 2 SSDs each and have mounts elsewhere other than the HDD cages.


Yep, that is correct. But if you want to run 2 x 240 mm in front and side both cages have to go away which is my plan right now. 280 mm bottom, 240 mm x 2 front+side and 480 mm top.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hereisphilly*
> 
> OCUK has the ship date down as 04/10/13, which is annoying, but all we can do is wait...
> On another note, I just sneaked in under the returns date for my Alphacool 420 UT60, as going by Jesse's writeup, Im really not sure if i can set it up with Push/pull in the roof, so i'm now waiting to get the case in my hands to see how much space i have with my Z87-UD5H. I'm confident, just not 100%, hence the return. My heatsink is nowhere as tall as the EVGA Dark, but i didnt wanna be stuck with the rad


Just got the xt45 (smaller sibling) of the 60 for my top rad. I am going push-pull route with 8x ap15 over there.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Yeah I've got plans to put a 480 UT60 up top and a 360 monsta in the bottom, both in push/pull, but I'm going to hold off on ordering the rads or any of the other watercooling gear until I get a mobo in the case to verify my clearances on the memory, heatsinks, and the CPU power cable.

I was going to put a 280 monsta in the bottom, but changed my mind once I figured out the 360 will fit down there without losing any of the HDD cages, which offers me more rad surface area than the 280 plus there are a lot better 120mm fans than 140s available for a thick rad. That. plus the 280 looks like it would be a very tight squeeze to get the side panel back on from the monstermawds video review. The monsta rad is only a few mm narrower than that Black Ice 280 they had that wouldn't fit.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Yeah I've got plans to put a 480 UT60 up top and a 360 monsta in the bottom, both in push/pull, but I'm going to hold off on ordering the rads or any of the other watercooling gear until I get a mobo in the case to verify my clearances on the memory, heatsinks, and the CPU power cable.
> 
> I was going to put a 280 monsta in the bottom, but changed my mind once I figured out the 360 will fit without losing any of the HDD cages, which offers me more rad surface area plus there are a lot better 120mm fans than 140s available for a thick rad.


Agree about 120 mm fans. Personally I don't think there much difference between the ut60 and xt45 in performance. You can always check tests on martinliquidlab page. All the rads (2x 240 and 1x 280mm) I already have so the only one missing for my re-build was the 480 mm. If Iw as building from zero ground I would probably go the 480 mm x2 or like you 360 mm bottom to save the hds cages.


----------



## Hereisphilly

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Just got the xt45 (smaller sibling) of the 60 for my top rad. I am going push-pull route with 8x ap15 over there.


Yeah if i was going to pick a thinner rad, the XT45 would be the one. As i'm going with 140mm wide, clearance is a big issue
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Yeah I've got plans to put a 480 UT60 up top and a 360 monsta in the bottom, both in push/pull, but I'm going to hold off on ordering the rads or any of the other watercooling gear until I get a mobo in the case to verify my clearances on the memory, heatsinks, and the CPU power cable.
> 
> I was going to put a 280 monsta in the bottom, but changed my mind once I figured out the 360 will fit without losing any of the HDD cages, which offers me more rad surface area plus there are a lot better 120mm fans than 140s available for a thick rad.


Looking at the pics it was 50/50 if iot would work with my mobo, so like you im wating to get the case and then pull the trigger on it.
I've gone with a 280 monsta in the floor, and currently figuring what 240 to put in the front

If you look at the specs for the Phanteks fans, the stats are better than the corsair SP120 quiets in every way, and seeing as you get 5 already in the case, i figured why not get more?


----------



## skupples

From the Q&A on TheModZoo fitting a 480 up top won't be a problem, it just has to be a 60mm @ the biggest, or there will be serious motherboard collision issues.

"What is the max clearance for a radiator installed in the top panel?"
"The case has a clearance of 70mm for mounting a radiator in the roof. The mounts are offset so installing a 60mm (120mm series) radiator in push pull should not be an issue."


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Yeah, this will be my first watercooled build, so just about everything is going to be new going into it, so I've been doing a ton of figuring out what will work best for me.

I might be biting off more than I can chew for my first go at watercooling but I'm going to try to use Primochill's rigid tubing with this build. It looks like it might be tricky to pull off using a heat gun for all of the bends, but I think I'll be able to do it. I don't mind if I have to buy some extra tubage to learn & make mistakes with. I just really like the way those rigid tubes look. Haven't made my mind up what to do for a pump yet. I sorta want to have dual pumps if just for redundancy, but not sure yet. I still have more reading up on them yet before I can make any sort of informed decision.

The only thing I already have that I know is going in it is an ax1200 psu. That, and I'm thinking I probably will move my GTX 760s in there since I just found out that GTX 670 reference waterblocks will fit them, and I really like xspc's 670 blocks, and in that case I'll just buy different card(s) for my air-cooled Cosmo II.

The new Ivy E processors coming out are going to have me weighing over the next few weeks whether it's going to be worth it to go with a new 4930K against what I hope will be a price-drop on the 3930K, and then deciding what mobo I want to go with.


----------



## doyll

I'm watching Jesse's thread. He's already started modding his. Changed the front grill and said he's got a plan for top grill too.









Just made a deal for an Asus GTX 580 DirectCU II to go into mine!!


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> From the Q&A on TheModZoo fitting a 480 up top won't be a problem, it just has to be a 60mm @ the biggest, or there will be serious motherboard collision issues.
> 
> "What is the max clearance for a radiator installed in the top panel?"
> "The case has a clearance of 70mm for mounting a radiator in the roof. The mounts are offset so installing a 60mm (120mm series) radiator in push pull should not be an issue."


Actually a 120 rad (240, 360, 480) is offset enough that unless you have really tall memory or whatnot, it looks to me like it might well be possible to fit an 80mm thick monsta rad up top in push/pull (the phanteks 'watercooling possibilities' video implies you'll be able to fit a monsta up there), but at the very least you'd be blocking the view of the top ~35-40mm of your mobo, and that's assuming you don't have something else taller than your ram, like fittings for a watercooled mosfet, or whatever that might get in the way of that thicker rad & push fans. That, and if you're putting in a 480 monsta up top you'd almost definitely be giving up use of your top 5.25" bay.

Like Jesse wrote, unless you have really tall ram or whatnot, there should be no problem with a 60mm thick rad and a 25mm fan (85mm in all) which would hang ~15mm in front of the mobo (top of mobo to top of case is 70mm). If Jesse was already saying that a 120 rad & fans is offset enough that it would probably clear low profile ram & normal mosfet heatsinks, etc and whatever else it typically in that top ~15mm of a board , then as long as you don't have anything in the top ~35mm of your board sticking out more than that then I'm thinking we might likewise get away with fitting a monsta up top.

From the Phanteks "Watercooling Possibilities" youtube vid:


That's just another reason I want to wait on getting the rest of my stuff until after I have my hands on this case, even though it's doubtful that I'd want to try to put an 80mm thick rad up top. The 60mm 480 up top and a 360 monsta in the bottom ought to be plenty for me, but I won't decide and start ordering any rads until after I see what will fit.


----------



## jassilamba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Yeah, this will be my first watercooled build, so just about everything is going to be new going into it, so I've been doing a ton of figuring out what will work best for me.
> 
> I might be biting off more than I can chew for my first go at watercooling but I'm going to try to use Primochill's rigid tubing with this build. It looks like it might be tricky to pull off using a heat gun for all of the bends, but I think I'll be able to do it. I don't mind if I have to buy some extra tubage to learn & make mistakes with. I just really like the way those rigid tubes look. Haven't made my mind up what to do for a pump yet. I sorta want to have dual pumps if just for redundancy, but not sure yet. I still have more reading up on them yet before I can make any sort of informed decision.
> 
> The only thing I already have that I know is going in it is an ax1200 psu. That, and I'm thinking I probably will move my GTX 760s in there since I just found out that GTX 670 reference waterblocks will fit them, and I really like xspc's 670 blocks, and in that case I'll just buy different card(s) for my air-cooled Cosmo II.
> 
> The new Ivy E processors coming out are going to have me weighing over the next few weeks whether it's going to be worth it to go with a new 4930K against what I hope will be a price-drop on the 3930K, and then deciding what mobo I want to go with.


In my build, I just used 1 4 pack of primochill tubing, and bending is actually pretty easy. I might do a video on it as I made some mistakes while working on mine and now I have a better handle on bending and can almost bend a tube the way I need it without any issues.

In a nutshell the trick is to heat more area than what you need, for example you are going to do a 90 degree bend just make sure you heat 3 to 4 inches of area around the bend. If you do not do that you will cause thermal shock and the tubing will bubble and look ugly when bent.

Also nothing to worry about with your first time water cooling.

Simple Tips:

1. Make sure you have an easy plan for draining the loop.
2. Make sure you have some extra fittings then what you need.
3. Same with tubing, get some extra (I only used 2 tubes from the 4 pack that I bought for my build)
4. Measure twice cut once.
5. Get some surgical gloves as they help get a better grip on fittings when tightining.
6. Flush your radiator and blocks with distilled water.
7. Leak test the system with only the pump powered and just distilled water. (in case you spill, distilled water will not damage anything)
8. Draw our tube routing plan, I use old fashion pen and paper to figure mine out.

Use the time you have to plan how you want to route the tubing, and how you want to place the ports on the radiators.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jassilamba*
> 
> In my build, I just used 1 4 pack of primochill tubing, and bending is actually pretty easy. I might do a video on it as I made some mistakes while working on mine and now I have a better handle on bending and can almost bend a tube the way I need it without any issues.
> 
> In a nutshell the trick is to heat more area than what you need, for example you are going to do a 90 degree bend just make sure you heat 3 to 4 inches of area around the bend. If you do not do that you will cause thermal shock and the tubing will bubble and look ugly when bent.
> 
> Also nothing to worry about with your first time water cooling.
> 
> Simple Tips:
> 
> 1. Make sure you have an easy plan for draining the loop.
> 2. Make sure you have some extra fittings then what you need.
> 3. Same with tubing, get some extra (I only used 2 tubes from the 4 pack that I bought for my build)
> 4. Measure twice cut once.
> 5. Get some surgical gloves as they help get a better grip on fittings when tightining.
> 6. Flush your radiator and blocks with distilled water.
> 7. Leak test the system with only the pump powered and just distilled water. (in case you spill, distilled water will not damage anything)
> 8. Draw our tube routing plan, I use old fashion pen and paper to figure mine out.
> 
> Use the time you have to plan how you want to route the tubing, and how you want to place the ports on the radiators.





Thanks for the tips. It all helps. I've been looking at several tutorials and vids showing how to get the bends right. Like you said, I don't think I'll have any major problems pulling it off as long as I plan ahead to get some extra to learn with.

Man I really do appreciate that we have Jesse who has hands-on with this case. It's set my mind at ease in so many ways.


----------



## Terminus14

How hard do you guys think it'd be to mod that blue light strip to a red LED instead?


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Terminus14*
> 
> How hard do you guys think it'd be to mod that blue light strip to a red LED instead?


I was wondering the same thing. Jesse will probably have the answer in due time.


----------



## jassilamba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> I was wondering the same thing. Jesse will probably have the answer in due time.


FAQ updated. Will start another mod guide.


----------



## Roxycon

Review by Guru3d

Review by Sweclockers


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roxycon*
> 
> Review by Guru3d
> 
> Review by Sweclockers


Thanks!

Guru3d included some HD finger print photo's...


----------



## jassilamba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> Guru3d included some HD finger print photo's...


I started wearing gloves during my reviews to prevent them, but some always sneak in. I feel their pain....


----------



## ModernAfro

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jassilamba*
> 
> FAQ updated. Will start another mod guide.


How about a 2x140mm Arc Reactor fan grill in black?


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jassilamba*
> 
> I started wearing gloves during my reviews to prevent them, but some always sneak in. I feel their pain....





















We all appreciate the "hard" work you all do!


----------



## Terminus14

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jassilamba*
> 
> FAQ updated. Will start another mod guide.


I just want you to know that you are a wonderful person! I had never heard of the Enthoo Primo or themodzoo.com until yesterday. Your review made me fall in love with both. That you're so involved with the community with your constantly updating FAQ and direct interaction with the people, it has earned themodzoo a place in my bookmark list. Keep up the great work.


----------



## jassilamba

@Terminus14 - Thank you sir, we are modders over at the zoo, we are about the community and if you might have noticed we are add free and run on the support of our members.

@skupples - TY sir

@ModernAfro - The next guide will be for changing the LED in the front and top panel. I took some pics already and will start on that soon. I have an overkill grill that I can test out and see how it looks.

Thanks for all your support guys.


----------



## ciarlatano

Will this gain me club entry?


----------



## Roxycon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Will this gain me club entry?


Its sad enough that i have to wait but youre making it even more impossible when you show it with the same motherboard that i have D:

Nice setup tho, love the lightning. Wich gpu is it if you dont mind me asking?


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Will this gain me club entry?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Nice build!








Hey, there are many of us wannabees' waiting for our case. I guess if you already have on it's kinda hard not to let you in.









Components:
* GA-X58A-UD5
* i7 980
* PH-TC14PE_B (have red/orange TY-143 fans.. orange might work but don't think the red will)
* 3x 4GB Crucial Ballistix Sport
* Xonar D2X
* TX750

*Have an Asus ENGTX580 DirectCU II in a day or 2. Thing's a monster! 3 slots wide and 292mm long. Will have to remove or mod the reservoir bracket so it fits.

Definite to does:
* Caster base to match raising case 45-50mm w/ 5-10mm floor clearance. This will be fabricated with void-less 9mm Baltic birch 7 ply plywood and hopefully have grille material to match other grilles.

Possibles so far:
* Braiding the cables with paracord. What color/colors?
* Paint motherboard black ??? Not sure about that. Would be much easier than making a cover by hand.

Once case arrives possibles:
* Mod the front and top grilles. Maybe do a grill in 5.25 bay door with matching borders to lower front grille...
* Change LEDs to remote controlled RGB with lights inside case and custom base too. Maybe put LEDs behind grille strip along side of top and front instead of the stock LEDs??

All of above is open to suggestions as well as anything we can come up with for Enthoo Primo. The more ideas the better. What I don't use you or someone else will.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roxycon*
> 
> Its sad enough that i have to wait but youre making it even more impossible when you show it with the same motherboard that i have D:
> 
> Nice setup tho, love the lightning. Wich gpu is it if you dont mind me asking?


Thanks. It's a reference GTX 780 with XSPC Razor Block. I need to notch the cable cover for it so I can use it.


----------



## ciarlatano

Review is up at Hi Tech Legion, btw: http://www.hitechlegion.com/reviews/cases/36778-phanteks-enthoo-primo


----------



## skupples

Now that I have seen the bottom in HD I'm kinda worried about how effective the filters will be. It looks like a major portion of bottom air intake will come threw the back and not the 1/4 inch meshed air ports. If anyone is confused I can clarify when I'm home from dinner. Look at me posting on my phone like a ....


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Nice build!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hey, there are many of us wannabees' waiting for our case. I guess if you already have on it's kinda hard not to let you in.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Things are collecting in the corner for mine when it gets here.
> GA-X58A-UD5
> i7 980
> PH-TC14PE_B
> 3x 4GB Crucial Ballistix Sport
> TX750
> 
> Have an Asus ENGTX580 DirectCU II in a day or 2. Thing's a monster! 3 slots wide and 292mm long. Will have to remove or mod the reservoir bracket so it fits.
> 
> Thinking about braiding the cables with paracord.
> 
> Maybe paint motherboard black ??? Not sure about that. Would be much easier than making a cover by hand.
> 
> Once case arrives will mod the front and top grilles. Maybe do a grill in bay door with matching borders to lower front grille... What do you think?
> 
> Definitely make a caster base to match to raise it up 45-50mm and clear floor by 5-10mm. Probably use same grille material around the base as on other grilles. This will dramatically improve airflow to bottom fans.


Sounds like some awesome ideas. I couldn't mod for the review, but I did have the 14PE_B in there, in case you are wondering how it looks....


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Sounds like some awesome ideas. I couldn't mod for the review, but I did have the 14PE_B in there, in case you are wondering how it looks....


Thanks!

Not that much modding really.

Loke your build. The 14TC_B looks real nice in it. Wonder what it would look like with the new PH-F140XP PWM fan carrying the black frame/white fan theme?









Also thinking of possibly changing the LEDs to RGB and add some inside and in custom base too.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> The 14TC_B looks real nice in it. Wonder what it would look like with the new PH-F140XP PWM fan carrying the black frame/white fan theme?


I actually kicked myself that I didn't try that out....I had the fans sitting right there and it just never dawned on me. Total brain freeze on my part.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> Guru3d included some HD finger print photo's...


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jassilamba*
> 
> I started wearing gloves during my reviews to prevent them, but some always sneak in. I feel their pain....


Yeah I love the look of the brushed black (anodized?) aluminum, but it's apparently very unforgiving for fingerprints. I've seen the same complaints about other cases like Lian Li's that I assume are similar to the enthoo primo.

Anyone know what's the best way to clean fingerprints off of it? A google finds suggestions like soap and water or alcohol. but no one ever seems particularly happy with anything.


----------



## jassilamba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Yeah I love the look of the brushed black (anodized?) aluminum, but it's apparently very unforgiving for fingerprints. I've seen the same complaints about other cases like Lian Li's that I assume are similar to the enthoo primo.
> 
> Anyone know what's the best way to clean fingerprints off of it? A google finds suggestions like soap and water or alcohol. but no one ever seems particularly happy with anything.


I normally use automotive polish and waxes to clean my cases. So far they seem to work well for me.


----------



## Roxycon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Review is up at Hi Tech Legion, btw: http://www.hitechlegion.com/reviews/cases/36778-phanteks-enthoo-primo


So you didnt use inverters for the cathodes?


----------



## Buzzkill

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Yeah I love the look of the brushed black (anodized?) aluminum, but it's apparently very unforgiving for fingerprints. I've seen the same complaints about other cases like Lian Li's that I assume are similar to the enthoo primo.
> 
> Anyone know what's the best way to clean fingerprints off of it? A google finds suggestions like soap and water or alcohol. but no one ever seems particularly happy with anything.


Microfiber cleaning cloth


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Buzzkill*
> 
> Microfiber cleaning cloth


This, plus I try to always wear the blue rubber surgical gloves when ever i'm poking around.










why is i've spell check flagged.


----------



## Terminus14

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Review is up at Hi Tech Legion, btw: http://www.hitechlegion.com/reviews/cases/36778-phanteks-enthoo-primo


Perhaps I'm just spoiled to the video case reviews that Linus of LinusTechTips does but I was not a fan of this video. Yeah, you got a nice view of the case but the reviewer himself didn't have that great of skills on camera. I felt like the entire video was mostly just a regurgitation of all the information we already knew. The video felt more like an advertisement rather than an actual review. A lot of features were shown and talked about but very little was mentioned about the quality of the case and its components/features. The static camera placement was pretty jarring, as well. Perhaps if he got someone to be his cameraman to help him out, things would be a lot more enjoyable to watch.


----------



## Jeemil89

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> This, plus I try to always wear the blue rubber surgical gloves when ever i'm poking around.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> why is i've spell check flagged.


I've not i've


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roxycon*
> 
> So you didnt use inverters for the cathodes?


I did use an inverter. The LED switch has a 4-pin molex with only 12V coming off it. I powered the inverter directly from there.


----------



## jassilamba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> I did use an inverter. The LED switch has a 4-pin molex with only 12V coming off it. I powered the inverter directly from there.


Great review mate., glad to see someone else put a custom loop in this case for a review.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jassilamba*
> 
> Great review mate., glad to see someone else put a custom loop in this case for a review.


Thanks, much appreciated. Enjoyed yours, as well.

Frankly, I was totally "***?????" on all of the early reviews that only did air cooling. It's like doing a review of a Lamborghini and never taking it out of a 25 MPH school zone......

Although someone is bound to do a review if it using an AiO as "liquid cooling", and that will totally send me off the deep end.


----------



## jassilamba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Thanks, much appreciated. Enjoyed yours, as well.
> 
> Frankly, I was totally "***?????" on all of the early reviews that only did air cooling. It's like doing a review of a Lamborghini and never taking it out of a 25 MPH school zone......
> 
> Although someone is bound to do a review if it using an AiO as "liquid cooling", and that will totally send me off the deep end.


The feeling is mutual regarding the AiOs. The moment I saw your review I was like, thank god, finally someone thought about reviewing a product for what its meant for.

Nothing wrong in air cooling build/review but at least do a good job of cable management at-least.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jassilamba*
> 
> The feeling is mutual regarding the AiOs. The moment I saw your review I was like, thank god, finally someone thought about reviewing a product for what its meant for.
> 
> Nothing wrong in air cooling build/review *but at least do a good job of cable management at-least.*


I wasn't going there....but since you did.....stuffing the cables in the space in front of the PSU is just an insult to the designers and all at Phanteks. The cable routing is so incredibly easy and quick on the Enthoo that there is just no excuse. I freely admit that I don't pay as much attention to cable routing as I should, even in my reviews, but some of what I saw was unforgivable.

AiOs in general leave me simply shaking my head....but, that is a discussion for a different thread.

And a big thanks for posting up the LED size lying behind the trim, as well as all of the info in your FAQ. It's a huge help for prospective and soon to be owners.


----------



## jassilamba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> I wasn't going there....but since you did.....stuffing the cables in the space in front of the PSU is just an insult to the designers and all at Phanteks. The cable routing is so incredibly easy and quick on the Enthoo that there is just no excuse. I freely admit that I don't pay as much attention to cable routing as I should, even in my reviews, but some of what I saw was unforgivable.
> 
> AiOs in general leave me simply shaking my head....but, that is a discussion for a different thread.
> 
> And a big thanks for posting up the LED size lying behind the trim, as well as all of the info in your FAQ. It's a huge help for prospective and soon to be owners.


AiOs have there place I believe, and I have used them in a review in the past. But for me if a case has enough space to hold a custom loop, I want to showcase that. The only time I used an AiO, and that too a swiftech H220 was in the cooler master N200 review.

And you're welcome on the FAQ mate.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Thanks both of you ciarlatano and jassilamba for the reviews....Now is the hardest part...Wait for the case to actually ship. Place my order weeks ago in a shop in Holland. All my parts are either at hand or en route and soon my system will expand from the signature (Fractal Design xl r2) to the Enthoo Primo.

On a side note. I wonder who come up with this horrible name....... Probably the best case for watercooling with the worse name to it....


----------



## jassilamba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Thanks both of you ciarlatano and jassilamba for the reviews....Now is the hardest part...Wait for the case to actually ship. Place my order weeks ago in a shop in Holland. All my parts are either at hand or en route and soon my system will expand from the signature (Fractal Design xl r2) to the Enthoo Primo.
> 
> On a side note. I wonder who come up with this horrible name....... Probably the best case for watercooling with the worse name to it....


We have not gotten any official confirmation yet, but we over at the zoo think that its a way of saying "Enthu"siast First or "Enthu"siast One, ~ Enthoo Primoo.

But yes could have used a different name lol.


----------



## skupples

A proper review for this case would contain 3-4 gk110 chips or like sized PCB card's.

They are advertising it as a different option from 900D.

So, imo, the reviewer should be sticking as much hardware into it as humanly possible.

I'm still waiting on some one to possibly do a tri-sli dual psu review....


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jassilamba*
> 
> AiOs have there place I believe, and I have used them in a review in the past. But for me if a case has enough space to hold a custom loop, I want to showcase that. The only time I used an AiO, and that too a swiftech H220 was in the cooler master N200 review.
> 
> And you're welcome on the FAQ mate.


You are far kinder than me....I would take a Phanteks 14PE, Noctua D14 or U14S, etc. over an AiO every time....and I get a ton of flack for saying it. With the exception of the H220 (which I really don't classify with the other AiO) and NZXT X60, I just don't understand their existence. Horrid price/performance and unbearably loud with any load heavier than web surfing....and with the XSPC kits out there for ~$25 more than most of the 240mm AiOs, it just really makes no sense.

And the name? LOL....I said "Enthoo Primoo" at least five times in the video portion of that review.


----------



## jassilamba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> A proper review for this case would contain 3-4 gk110 chips or like sized PCB card's.
> 
> They are advertising it as a different option from 900D.
> 
> So, imo, the reviewer should be sticking as much hardware into it as humanly possible.
> 
> I'm still waiting on some one to possibly do a tri-sli dual psu review....


Hey if you know someone who will send the hardware I will do it gladly. **** just have them send me a another Titan and the block. In my review, all the hardware is mine and I dont have that much budget, unless someone wants to buy my kidney. lol

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> You are far kinder than me....I would take a Phanteks 14PE, Noctua D14 or U14S, etc. over an AiO every time....and I get a ton of flack for saying it. With the exception of the H220 (which I really don't classify with the other AiO) and NZXT X60, I just don't understand their existence. Horrid price/performance and unbearably loud with any load heavier than web surfing....and with the XSPC kits out there for ~$25 more than most of the 240mm AiOs, it just really makes no sense.
> 
> And the name? LOL....I said "Enthoo Primoo" at least five times in the video portion of that review.


Lol, in our first video we forgot to say the "N" in Enthoo lol...


----------



## skupples




----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> You are far kinder than me....I would take a Phanteks 14PE, Noctua D14 or U14S, etc. over an AiO every time....and I get a ton of flack for saying it. With the exception of the H220 (which I really don't classify with the other AiO) and NZXT X60, I just don't understand their existence. Horrid price/performance and unbearably loud with any load heavier than web surfing....and with the XSPC kits out there for ~$25 more than most of the 240mm AiOs, it just really makes no sense.
> 
> And the name? LOL....I said "Enthoo Primoo" at least five times in the video portion of that review.


100% agree on the AOI. Have a bunch of it at work computers and actually regret the buy. Would have done better staying with Noctuas air cooler (or Thermalrigth and Phanteeks) that I have been using for years now. Even my old 8800 GTX got a thermalrigth passive cooler that was best by 20 C that the original blower while being silent. I took the h220 this year and it is an awesome unit. But I was unlucky and have problems with two units in a row and the long RMA process (I am in Brazil) made my mind. So I decide to go fully custom liquid cooling for the first time (see sig.) and don't regret a bit. Anyway, most of those AOI would be tie in performance with the new Noctua simple tower, but the Noctua is very much silent while the AOI are not and cost half the price...So, I don't understand too all the hype around most AOI.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jassilamba*
> 
> Hey if you know someone who will send the hardware I will do it gladly. **** just have them send me a another Titan and the block. In my review, all the hardware is mine and I dont have that much budget, unless someone wants to buy my kidney. lol


You took the words right out of my mouth.....
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> 100% agree on the AOI. Have a bunch of it at work computers and actually regret the buy. Would have done better staying with Noctuas air cooler (or Thermalrigth and Phanteeks) that I have been using for years now. Even my old 8800 GTX got a thermalrigth passive cooler that was best by 20 C that the original blower while being silent. I took the h220 this year and it is an awesome unit. But I was unlucky and have problems with two units in a row and the long RMA process (I am in Brazil) made my mind. So I decide to go fully custom liquid cooling for the first time (see sig.) and don't regret a bit. Anyway, most of those AOI would be tie in performance with the new Noctua simple tower, but the Noctua is very much silent while the AOI are not and cost half the price...So, I don't understand too all the hype around most AOI.


The hype....it's actually really strange, and kind of scary. People don't just want the AiOs to be something they aren't, their insistence is like they _need_ them to be something they aren't. And there is no amount of factual information that they won't fail to acknowledge. Like completely ignoring the actual performance, price and noise will magically make them wonderful. I mean, I kind of get it....it is a great marketing ploy, and no one likes to admit they got duped....and we have all seen performance numbers published that we know are crock, and that certainly doesn't help.


----------



## Hereisphilly

Does anyone know if this hole is large enough to pass a 3/4" tube through?


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hereisphilly*
> 
> Does anyone know if this hole is large enough to pass a 3/4" tube through?


It looks like. But Jassil can confirm it for sure. It looks like a little less in height that a 5.25 drive bay so it should be enough....


----------



## jassilamba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hereisphilly*
> 
> Does anyone know if this hole is large enough to pass a 3/4" tube through?


I will update the FAQ my friend, good question. Keep em coming guys.

Front panel LED how to coming really soon over at the zoo, will let you guys know when that is ready.


----------



## Hereisphilly

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jassilamba*
> 
> I will update the FAQ my friend, good question. Keep em coming guys.
> 
> Front panel LED how to coming really soon over at the zoo, will let you guys know when that is ready.


Thanks! I've been having a a bit of a rethink with my waterloop

If can shoehorn that XT45 in the front, then i'll route the tubing directly from the pump through that hole, then down though a hole i'm going to cut in the bottom of the odd bays (and providing that xt45 can fit the other way up than whats in Phantek's video, chambers facing up), then up through another cut hole and out the rear of the odd bays and to my 280 monsta in the bottom of the case

Edit: Whoops just seen the updated FAQ showing i cant just fit an XT45 in the front! Cheers for that! Do you know if the rad fit the other way up in the front or are the chambers going to clash with the bottom of the odd bracket?


----------



## doyll

Phanteks now has radiator and motherboard compatibility lists on website in case you need them.


----------



## Phanteks Rep

Quote:


> Originally Posted by Hereisphilly
> 
> "Does anyone know if this hole is large enough to pass a 3/4" tube through?"


Yes it will fit.


----------



## jassilamba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phanteks Rep*
> 
> Yes it will fit.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jassilamba*
> 
> I will update the FAQ my friend, good question. Keep em coming guys.
> 
> Front panel LED how to coming really soon over at the zoo, will let you guys know when that is ready.


Like the Phanteks rep said that it will fit. The opening is 1" wide.


----------



## jassilamba

Updated the FAQ with the above info, and added some more info regarding push pull configuration for the top of the case under the "What is the max clearance for a radiator installed in the top panel?" question.

http://themodzoo.com/forum/index.php?/page/articles.html/_/reviews/cases/phanteks-enthoo-primo-full-tower-review-r67?pg=8


----------



## ModernAfro

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jassilamba*
> 
> Updated the FAQ with the above info, and added some more info regarding push pull configuration for the top of the case under the "What is the max clearance for a radiator installed in the top panel?" question.
> 
> http://themodzoo.com/forum/index.php?/page/articles.html/_/reviews/cases/phanteks-enthoo-primo-full-tower-review-r67?pg=8


Are you referring to the ripjaws series ram? what about the vengeance line from corsir


----------



## jassilamba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ModernAfro*
> 
> Are you referring to the ripjaws series ram? what about the vengeance line from corsir


If they are any taller than the RipGaws you are gonna have issues. The case was meant for a 45mm thick rad up top (push pull) or a 60mm thick rad in either push or pull.

I have a pair of dominators at home, and I can try out with those, I'm pretty sure those will not work.

OT:
Front LED replacement guide started

http://themodzoo.com/forum/index.php?/topic/883-enthoo-primo-front-led-color-change/


----------



## YaLu

http://www.phanteks.com/assets/enthoo-primo/FAQ8-2.png

So... Won't I put the classified ACX with the resevoir?
I'll probably change case with a 900D, or another solution?


----------



## jassilamba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *YaLu*
> 
> http://www.phanteks.com/assets/enthoo-primo/FAQ8-2.png
> 
> So... Won't I put the classified ACX with the resevoir?
> I'll probably change case with a 900D, or another solution?


What reservoir are you planning on using? I mean what size?


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *YaLu*
> 
> http://www.phanteks.com/assets/enthoo-primo/FAQ8-2.png
> 
> So... Won't I put the classified ACX with the resevoir?
> I'll probably change case with a 900D, or another solution?


I ran into into this myself, as the 770 Classified was the card I originally had slated to go in. You can notch the res holder without too much of a problem to get the Classified ACX in, BUT you then have the issue that there is not enough space between the ACX and the drive bays for many tube reservoirs. So, you need to watch your res height and make sure it fits above the GPU, which can be inconvenient for fills....AND you need to make sure the res is not too thick for the allotted space.

Personally, I wound up simply mounting my res in the rear. I just made more sense to get the look I was going for.


----------



## jassilamba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> I ran into into this myself, as the 770 Classified was the card I originally had slated to go in. You can notch the res holder without too much of a problem to get the Classified ACX in, BUT you then have the issue that there is not enough space between the ACX and the drive bays for many tube reservoirs. So, you need to watch your res height and make sure it fits above the GPU, which can be inconvenient for fills....AND you need to make sure the res is not too thick for the allotted space.
> 
> Personally, I wound up simply mounting my res in the rear. I just made more sense to get the look I was going for.


That or mount it in the the 5.25 drive bay. I can fill my loop from the top. And even though I replaced the pictured setup with EK DDC pump top and res combo (150), I still have the top slot open for a blu ray or a fan controller.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Two questions for the Phanteks Rep (welcome here by the way) and perhaps Jassil and Ciarlatano.

1) Would the Reservoir plate be re-design in the shipping units to account for the problems noticed in length of VGA cards in dual or tri-sli setups?

2) I am thinking in making a hole at the bottom for the drain and on top for filling. The top one perhaps is not necessary since the whole top can come off to access the reservoir, but the bottom one can come handy for draining the system. I will be using a 280 mm bottom and 2x 240 mm in front/side. would you guys have any suggestion where to put that hole for the drain?? Wondering if would fit right below the rad itself due to the rad support/stand....

Cheers


----------



## Hereisphilly

I was having a look at this picturewith a 420 UT60 installed:



and i know its been said that push/pull wont fit with the 60mm rad, but my motherboard has nowhere near as tall a heatsink



So i think i might be able ot get away with it. My ram doesn't start right at the edge of the board, and with 70mm total clearance, i only need another 15mm to get that second 25mm thick fan in. I dont know but by looking at it i say it may be possible...


----------



## Hereisphilly

double post....


----------



## YaLu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jassilamba*
> 
> What reservoir are you planning on using? I mean what size?


200x60... but i would like to take the koolance acetal reservoir base for the pmp 450s ... that's another problem.
The main problem is the 780 classified (Lenght 279,4 mm).
I leave out the 240mm cause I want put a 480mm push and pull on the top... and RX360 would be great but probably can't fit, an EX could be ok.
Ah the mb is a VI formula :\ but i can change it if is the problem for the 60mm rad.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Two questions for the Phanteks Rep (welcome here by the way) and perhaps Jassil and Ciarlatano.
> 
> 1) Would the Reservoir plate be re-design in the shipping units to account for the problems noticed in length of VGA cards in dual or tri-sli setups?


Yeah the max length of card that's able to clear that bracket. especially multiple GPUs in sli, is definitely one of the drawbacks of this case. If Phanteks was going to do any revisions or offer a v2 of this case that would be one thing they probably ought to address.

That said, the clearance for GPUs on that cover/bracket has been pointed out / discussed in just about every review of the case so it shouldn't surprise anyone, and you know you can always just take out that cover and bracket and fit any combo of even the longest of cards that you want. You just won't be able to put a reservoir right there and you'll lose some aesthetics as it won't hide the cables from the mobo. In that case Phanteks did add another res mounting place on the back of the case or there's also plenty of room to go with a bay res instead.

As it is I'll be putting in my two reference 4GB GTX 760s that have a short PCB (< 7" / 175mm) and they fit GTX 670 reference card waterblocks like the XSPC Razor nVidia or EK FC670. I'll be going with the XSPC blocks & I do believe these cards are going to fit this case beautifully - like it was made just for them - with plenty of room for using that reservoir mount.









If there was one change I wish they would have made to this case I'd like to have seen more room for a taller XL ATX mobo like my Z87 XPower. I suppose the only way to do that would be to make the case ~2" / 5cm taller though. If that was the case I'd have been able to have my rig going in no time after I get this case, but as it is I'm going to have to start from scratch with a completely new build, and it's going to take me a couple months most likely after I get the case before I am able to get it up and running.

Not a big deal really. I'm just about always starting the new build not long after I finish the last one. It's just I'm totally hooked on this case and all the possibilities it holds for building for my first watercooled rig. I can't wait to get my hands on it and begin.


----------



## jassilamba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hereisphilly*
> 
> I was having a look at this picturewith a 420 UT60 installed:
> 
> 
> 
> and i know its been said that push/pull wont fit with the 60mm rad, but my motherboard has nowhere near as tall a heatsink
> 
> 
> 
> So i think i might be able ot get away with it. My ram doesn't start right at the edge of the board, and with 70mm total clearance, i only need another 15mm to get that second 25mm thick fan in. I dont know but by looking at it i say it may be possible...


Using alphacool 120mm rads as an example I took some measurements today and you have almost 54.5mm ~ 55mm of clearance from the motherboard tray to the edge of the rad. The 140mm rads are 144mm wide, 20mm more than the 120mm rads. That means 10mm gained on each side, reducing the clearance to ~45mm.

Here what I would recommend. Put a 480 60mm thick up top in push pull, a 360 in the bottom. When you install your 360 in the bottom leave the 120mm spot closer to the back of the case open. You can use that space to install a pump and a reservoir on the back of the case.


----------



## YaLu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jassilamba*
> 
> Using alphacool 120mm rads as an example I took some measurements today and you have almost 54.5mm ~ 55mm of clearance from the motherboard tray to the edge of the rad. The 140mm rads are 144mm wide, 20mm more than the 120mm rads. That means 10mm gained on each side, reducing the clearance to ~45mm.
> 
> Here what I would recommend. Put a 480 60mm thick up top in push pull, a 360 in the bottom. When you install your 360 in the bottom leave the 120mm spot closer to the back of the case open. You can use that space to install a pump and a reservoir on the back of the case.


I would like to put a RX 480 or a 360 in top and after a monsta in bottom (both push pull)
If I put the pump+top and resevoir to the HDD tray (look image...but is 900D) I could gain the necessary space for the classified... or not?
(too big image)


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## dsmwookie

Aggravating news...I was emailed that the case won't ship till October 18th.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dsmwookie*
> 
> Aggravating news...I was emailed that the case won't ship till October 18th.












Nooooooooooooo!


----------



## dsmwookie

Yeah I'm debating on canceling. I can order a 350D or Caselabs here next week.


----------



## Terminus14

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dsmwookie*
> 
> Yeah I'm debating on canceling. I can order a 350D or Caselabs here next week.


Are you in _that_ big of a hurry to build that you can't wait a month? And a 350D certainly isn't comparable to this case, being mATX and all. As far as CaseLabs goes, "there goes the bank," is all I have to say.


----------



## dsmwookie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Terminus14*
> 
> Are you in _that_ big of a hurry to build that you can't wait a month? And a 350D certainly isn't comparable to this case, being mATX and all. As far as CaseLabs goes, "there goes the bank," is all I have to say.


Sorry I meant 900D. I have a MATX board so it doesn't really matter. I will never got quad GPU so a full size ATX served no purpose for me.


----------



## Hereisphilly

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jassilamba*
> 
> Using alphacool 120mm rads as an example I took some measurements today and you have almost 54.5mm ~ 55mm of clearance from the motherboard tray to the edge of the rad. The 140mm rads are 144mm wide, 20mm more than the 120mm rads. That means 10mm gained on each side, reducing the clearance to ~45mm.
> 
> Here what I would recommend. Put a 480 60mm thick up top in push pull, a 360 in the bottom. When you install your 360 in the bottom leave the 120mm spot closer to the back of the case open. You can use that space to install a pump and a reservoir on the back of the case.


I'm going to have a measure up now and see what I can get away with!

Yeah I know in hindsight I probably should have gone with 120mm rads, but I've already bought my 280 monsta for the bottom, and I kinda wanted to use phanteks' 140 fans, seeing they bundle 5 already, so that's 5 less to buy, and I really want to use the same fans throughout the case


----------



## dsmwookie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Terminus14*
> 
> Are you in _that_ big of a hurry to build that you can't wait a month? And a 350D certainly isn't comparable to this case, being mATX and all. As far as CaseLabs goes, "there goes the bank," is all I have to say.


Overall though your right I was being impatient. Watched to HT Legion video and in renewed. I've been waiting for months and I'm just ready.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Yeah I got the same email.
Quote:


> Thank you for your purchase of the Enthoo Primo. Your order is scheduled to ship October 18, 2013
> . If you have any further questions or wish to cancel your order, please let us know at your earliest convenience.
> 
> Please accept our apology for this delay and thank you for your understanding.
> 
> Sincerely,
> 
> Phanteks USA


Seems they probably jumped the gun a bit on taking pre-orders for the case.

That's not the news I was wanting to hear, but it's sure not going to kill me to wait a little longer since it was going to take me a couple months to come up with everything going into it anyway, however I have been holding off ordering much of anything yet until I actually get the case because I've learned from past build experiences that having all the earlier on ordered parts sitting around well past the typical 30-day RMA period before the last parts arrive before I have even the first chance to put them all to use and make sure they weren't DOA probably isn't really the best thing to do. Unless something I'm looking at buying anyway goes on sale for cheaper I've found it's usually just better to hold off and get everything together about the same time.

That, plus I'm pretty well set on what all I'm going to be getting, but do still want to actually get my hands on this case first to make certain for myself what all is going to fit where and what I think it will look like before I commit to it. There's only so much all the written specs, pictures and advice from Jesse and others are able to do for me to answer all my final questions/concerns.


----------



## Gabrielzm

I think we are in for some surprises in the final product. These delays problems meant they are using reviews out there to improve the case. For example the reservoir/vga length piece would most likely be re-done properly in the shipping units... My guess only, not an inside information. Since my system is up and running I don't mind waiting.


----------



## dsmwookie

I m guessing demand and minor tweaks. The case really doesn't have much in the way of flaws, but I can appreciate them wanting it to be near perfect. I m just going to use the time to actually map out what other parts I want to order and begin stock piling. I was going to wait on paracord and rewiring, but now it seems like a good use of time.

I m still unclear, but can we run a 240 rad up front and keep the hard drive cages?

One of the nifty things I saw in the HTL video that I never noticed before was that each SSD bracket holds 2 SSDs. I m sure they mentioned it before but this just seemed neat and efficient. I like how all the brackets look good and function nicely without looking like cheap pieces of crap. The modular design of those cases and the pump mounting is pretty rad.

I must admit I m doing the case a disservice by using an Apogee Drive II and Asus x79 Gene board, but Ill just fill it with radiators, fans, and hard drives. Those new Seagate 5TB drives are looking nice.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dsmwookie*
> 
> [...] I m still unclear, but can we run a 240 rad up front and keep the hard drive cages?. [...]


Have a look at the 



. You can put a 240, 280, or 360 rad of any thickness on the bottom in push/pull without removing any of the HDD cages. To put a 360 rad there will only require shifting the HDD cages to their most forward position.

I'm planning on putting an 80mm thick 360 monsta on the bottom & keeping both HDD cages, plus a 60mm 480 rad in the top, both in push/pull.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> I think we are in for some surprises in the final product. These delays problems meant they are using reviews out there to improve the case. For example the reservoir/vga length piece would most likely be re-done properly in the shipping units... My guess only, not an inside information. Since my system is up and running I don't mind waiting.


The thought occurred to me too, and it would be nice, but I wouldn't expect that there would be any changes/improvements to the initial shipment. At least I wouldn't want to contribute to any rumors/expectations that there would be any without anything to base that on.

However, there is a moderator on the Phanteks forum who did write there that he has suggested to his bosses that they might want to include some sort of extra something or other to everyone who pre-ordered and has been waiting. No word on whether that might happen or not.


----------



## ModernAfro

Maybe a re-designed res bracket will ship with each case? we can only hope.... all i know is that i need this case but the delay has give me more time to plan/buy parts for the water cooling. (and wait for some one to release full water blocks for the gigabyte gtx 770....)


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ModernAfro*
> 
> Maybe a re-designed res bracket will ship with each case? we can only hope.... all i know is that i need this case but the delay has give me more time to plan/buy parts for the water cooling. (and wait for some one to release full water blocks for the gigabyte gtx 770....)


It would be nice if they showed up with a redesigned reservoir bracket, but it looks to me like if I had a longer card it interfered with I'd either just break out a dremel to that bracket as needed to make my card(s) fit & superglue a little uchannel molding around the cut edge, or else just mount the res to the back panel reservoir mount location or go with a bay res instead.

I'm not worried at all about that res bracket because my reference 4GB EVGA GTX 760s have a short (175mm) PCB, and the Razor Nvidia 670 blocks fit it, which will easily fit the case in sli and leave room for using that res bracket as is.

If I could pick out an extra something for my case I most want another PWM fan hub like the 2 installed on the display model the Phanteks rep had at Computex. That way I could cleanly PWM all the fans in the case, rads and all.

I wish you luck getting a waterblock for that Gigabyte GTX 770 any time soon. Your best bet would be EK, but their site says they have "no plans" to release a block for the GB 770s, but you never know. They or someone else still might at some point. Always better to get a reference pcb card if you want to be able to find blocks for it, or pick out the blocks first from what's available before buying a card.

Looks for now like I'll be going with the new Rampage IV Black Edition mobo for my Enthoo Primo when it releases next month, and then a 4930K to go in it. I just need to find out the height of that I/O bracket thing - it looks pretty tall - to make sure it won't interfere with my plans to put a 60mm 480 rad up top in push-pull.


----------



## jassilamba

A redesigned res bracket will still not solve the problem IMO. To effectively fix the issue the res bracket mount has to be pushed towards the front of the case and that might reduce the area available in the 5.25 drive bays. The reason I say that is even if you put a res there with a redesigned bracket, there is still not enough space for the longer cards like the 770s or the 780s. Can the case we modded to accommodate this the right way, you bet you can, and I might embark on that journey. The mod will require that the 5.25 drive bays be removed, and I personally don't use them for anything. For installing an OS, a USB stick works better and way faster.

The designers might have a better idea so I will leave that to the experts, above is just how I would solve the issue.

@Unicr0nhunter - Swiftech has a nice PWM splitter, that is what I'm using in my build on the 480mm rad to control the enermax fans.

http://www.swiftech.com/8-waypwmsplitter.aspx


----------



## ModernAfro

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> It would be nice if they showed up with a redesigned reservoir bracket, but it looks to me like if I had a longer card it interfered with I'd either just break out a dremel to that bracket as needed to make my card(s) fit & superglue a little uchannel molding around the cut edge, or else just mount the res to the back panel reservoir mount location or go with a bay res instead.
> 
> I'm not worried at all about that res bracket because my reference 4GB EVGA GTX 760s have a short (175mm) PCB, and the Razor Nvidia 670 blocks fit it, which will easily fit the case in sli and leave room for using that res bracket as is.
> 
> If I could pick out an extra something for my case I most want another PWM fan hub like the 2 installed on the display model the Phanteks rep had at Computex. That way I could cleanly PWM all the fans in the case, rads and all.
> 
> I wish you luck getting a waterblock for that Gigabyte GTX 770 any time soon. Your best bet would be EK, but their site says they have "no plans" to release a block for the GB 770s, but you never know. They or someone else still might at some point. Always better to get a reference pcb card if you want to be able to find blocks for it, or pick out the blocks first from what's available before buying a card.
> 
> Looks for now like I'll be going with the new Rampage IV Black Edition mobo for my Enthoo Primo when it releases next month, and then a 4930K to go in it. I just need to find out the height of that I/O bracket thing - it looks pretty tall - to make sure it won't interfere with my plans to put a 60mm 480 rad up top in push-pull.


I wasnt planning on WC my build until i saw this case hence why i got the gigabyte cards and now i kick myself every time lol


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jassilamba*
> 
> @Unicr0nhunter - Swiftech has a nice PWM splitter, that is what I'm using in my build on the 480mm rad to control the enermax fans.
> 
> http://www.swiftech.com/8-waypwmsplitter.aspx


Yeah, I've eyeballed swiftech's PWM hub before - looks like they have discontinued that molex powered one and have a sata powered one now - which is a possibility, but it works with 4 pin PWM fans.

As I understand it, the Phanteks hub uses a 4 pin from the mobo to allow you to control up to 11 standard 3 pin fans. Instead of pulse modulation, it's going to do it by voltage regulation. I looked a bit and didn't find another fan hub like it. I'd like to have two of the Phanteks ones, not just to be able to run all of my fans off of them, but to be able to do the push fans of each rad on one and the pull fans off of the other, to add some redundancy in case one of the hubs fail, and to be able to stay well below their rated capacity. I've had pretty bad luck with fan hubs and fan controllers in the past.

With my planned 480 up top, a 360 below, that's 14 120mm fans right there, and add in the two 140 mm fans up front and one 140mm on the rear it'd be 16 fans in all that I'd like to have PWM-controlled. Well, maybe the front fans I'll let run at max rpm if they're not too loud like that, if just because I'd like to try to keep a positive pressure in the case with more CFM pulling in than exhausting out.


----------



## doyll

I'm pretty sure Phanteks will be selling the fan hubs. In original cases at shows they had 2 fan hubs like this


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Yeah, I had seen the two hubs on the display case in the Computex vids. I would think they will be selling them separately but I've asked the Phanteks live chat person on the phanteksusa site several times about if/when they might be selling extra hubs or extra SSD brackets for the 3rd mounting location and they seemed to have no idea. They inferred that if/when any extra case components do go on sale it wouldn't happen until sometime well after the cases start shipping. Asking about it in their forums yielded no response.


----------



## doyll

Indeed.
They are worried about giving a date and not being able to follow through... would rather wait until they are in hand than say they have them for sale.


----------



## Hereisphilly

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Yeah, I had seen the two hubs on the display case in the Computex vids. I would think they will be selling them separately but I've asked the Phanteks live chat person on the phanteksusa site several times about if/when they might be selling extra hubs or extra SSD brackets for the 3rd mounting location and they seemed to have no idea. They inferred that if/when any extra case components do go on sale it wouldn't happen until sometime well after the cases start shipping. Asking about it in their forums yielded no response.


I live chatted with a phanteks rep a couple weeks ago on the very same subject, they told me additional fans would be available before the case came on sale, and that the pwm hub would be on sale not long after!

This was a few weeks ago mind, before the delay and I'm in the uk, so I'm not sure if this is still the case


----------



## dsmwookie

Ok from what I m seeing in the videos I can fit a 480 up top. Then I can do a 240/280 under the motherboard on the bottom towards the rear of the case. Then I can do an additional 240mm radiator at the front intake; if this is done can I keep all of the hard drive cages? It looks like I can according to the H20 possibilities video. It even looks like a 240mm radiator could go on the back of the case behind the hard drive cages.


----------



## Sneakybastard

What diameter res can you fit in the back of the case beneath the rear exhaust fan?


----------



## jassilamba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sneakybastard*
> 
> What diameter res can you fit in the back of the case beneath the rear exhaust fan?


A 60mm wide like bitspower will fit without any issues..


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sneakybastard*
> 
> What diameter res can you fit in the back of the case beneath the rear exhaust fan?


jassilamba can probably give us the answer to that.

Edit:
And already answered







Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jassilamba*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Sneakybastard*
> 
> What diameter res can you fit in the back of the case beneath the rear exhaust fan?
> 
> 
> 
> A 60mm wide like bitspower will fit without any issues..
Click to expand...


----------



## Hereisphilly

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dsmwookie*
> 
> Ok from what I m seeing in the videos I can fit a 480 up top. Then I can do a 240/280 under the motherboard on the bottom towards the rear of the case. Then I can do an additional 240mm radiator at the front intake; if this is done can I keep all of the hard drive cages? It looks like I can according to the H20 possibilities video. It even looks like a 240mm radiator could go on the back of the case behind the hard drive cages.


Yes you can, I'm planning on doing something very similar to you in fact (swapping out the 480 for a 420)

You can fit a 30mm front rad, but in order to get the tubing to it you will need to remove the lower hard drive mount, and hang both cages from the top
A 45mm will just fit in front too, but there will be no space to get tubing in, so I'm planning to make 2 holes in the bottom of the odd cage and go in that way


----------



## Roxycon




----------



## skupples

2:38 BEE!! AHHH!!!


----------



## dakooder

So any idea when this will be released? I get money for a new case in Friday and cant wait


----------



## Gabrielzm

Anyone can measure the clearance on the back of the cpu area? I would like to place a fan there blowing on the back of the cpu but I am not sure there is at least 26 or more mm there....


----------



## ModernAfro

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roxycon*


again with the res bracket.... Does anyone think i could just dremel the indent an inch further back and still mount a res there?


----------



## Terminus14

No matter where I read or what videos I watch, nobody mentions the second reservoir mounting spot except with a passing mention. Exactly how large of a reservoir can we put there? I really want to put the XSPC Photon tube reservoir in this case but I'm not sure how to do it yet since it's such a wide res.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dakooder*
> 
> So any idea when this will be released? I get money for a new case in Friday and cant wait


Those of us in the US who have already pre-ordered got an email saying the "order is scheduled to ship October 18, 2013". I suspect it won't show up in places for immediate delivery until not long after that.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Terminus14*
> 
> No matter where I read or what videos I watch, nobody mentions the second reservoir mounting spot except with a passing mention. Exactly how large of a reservoir can we put there? I really want to put the XSPC Photon tube reservoir in this case but I'm not sure how to do it yet since it's such a wide res.


Pg 30 of the owner's manual may help you - avail for download from the Phanteks site:



If I'm not mistaken, the XSPC Photon Tube Reservoir is 75mm wide. With those mounting holes being 71.5 mm apart, it looks like there's going to be more than a couple mm's space on either side of those for a 75mm wide res to exist between the GPU and the side panel.

You're going to have to get the card in there first before the res though.

edit:
Here's the best shot I could find of it from an inside view, to hopefully give you a better idea how much space there will be on either side of those mounting slots:


----------



## Terminus14

You're awesome. Thanks. I'll scour that manual later after work and see what other info I can learn from it


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dakooder*
> 
> So any idea when this will be released? I get money for a new case in Friday and cant wait


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dsmwookie*
> 
> Aggravating news...I was emailed that the case won't ship till October 18th.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Terminus14*
> 
> No matter where I read or what videos I watch, nobody mentions the second reservoir mounting spot except with a passing mention. Exactly how large of a reservoir can we put there? I really want to put the XSPC Photon tube reservoir in this case but I'm not sure how to do it yet since it's such a wide res.


I mounted an XSPC Photon in that spot in the Hi Tech Legion review....

The Photon fits in the rear with no issue. It is the front mount where it is tight if you are using a 10.5" GPU. You can mount it up front, but all of the mounting holes will have to be drilled, and there is very little margin for error.


----------



## Terminus14

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> I mounted an XSPC Photon in that spot in the Hi Tech Legion review....
> 
> The Photon fits in the rear with no issue. It is the front mount where it is tight if you are using a 10.5" GPU. You can mount it up front, but all of the mounting holes will have to be drilled, and there is very little margin for error.


I apologize. I actually posted in here a few pages back bashing that review. I only watched about 5 minutes of it before I judged it pretty harshly. After reading your comment here, I went back and rightfully watched your video like you deserved and I am left ashamed. I should have not judged you so quickly. You did a great review and I hope to see more content from you in the future.

Also, thanks for pointing this out to me. I feel that the slick design and glass tube of the Photon really compliment this case well and didn't want to have to settle for an EK res or even an Aqualis. Your review pretty much allowed me to solidify my plan for this build.


----------



## Sunreeper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ModernAfro*
> 
> again with the res bracket.... Does anyone think i could just dremel the indent an inch further back and still mount a res there?


That's what I'm planning on doing as well.


----------



## jassilamba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Terminus14*
> 
> No matter where I read or what videos I watch, nobody mentions the second reservoir mounting spot except with a passing mention. Exactly how large of a reservoir can we put there? I really want to put the XSPC Photon tube reservoir in this case but I'm not sure how to do it yet since it's such a wide res.


The photon will fit in the rear, but will create a tight look. My original plan was to use a XSPC photon 270, but for me that was rubbing against the new EVGA SLI connector, so I ended up not using it. If you are using a regular SLI /Xfire connector you should be fine.

You might have to drill a hole or two to mount the plate on the Photon.


----------



## skupples

I'm throwing in the towel, this case just didn't have enough space w/ dual PSU.... I look forward to all of your epic build logs!


----------



## Gabrielzm

Hey Jassil and Ciarlatano, can you guys measure the clearance behind the cpu area and the lateral door for me? I want to place some heatsinks there with a 25 mm fan to cool the back of the cpu and vrm in my RIVE, but I am not sure there is enough space...


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Terminus14*
> 
> I apologize. I actually posted in here a few pages back bashing that review. I only watched about 5 minutes of it before I judged it pretty harshly. After reading your comment here, I went back and rightfully watched your video like you deserved and I am left ashamed. I should have not judged you so quickly. You did a great review and I hope to see more content from you in the future.
> 
> Also, thanks for pointing this out to me. I feel that the slick design and glass tube of the Photon really compliment this case well and didn't want to have to settle for an EK res or even an Aqualis. Your review pretty much allowed me to solidify my plan for this build.


No apologies necessary, but I appreciate the kind words.

The Photon is really a stunning visual piece, and is much more impressive in person than in photos/videos. The glass has great depth and gives a very, very high end look. The anti-turbulance also works very well on it, and the lighting is great. Probably my favorite res out there right now.


----------



## jassilamba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Hey Jassil and Ciarlatano, can you guys measure the clearance behind the cpu area and the lateral door for me? I want to place some heatsinks there with a 25 mm fan to cool the back of the cpu and vrm in my RIVE, but I am not sure there is enough space...


You have a clearance of about an inch or 30mm.


----------



## Roxycon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Hey Jassil and Ciarlatano, can you guys measure the clearance behind the cpu area and the lateral door for me? I want to place some heatsinks there with a 25 mm fan to cool the back of the cpu and vrm in my RIVE, but I am not sure there is enough space...


im putting a serverstyle cpu cooler at the back of my cpu, its listed at phanteks site that youll have 30 mm to work with so ill gues i can have it active like your fan


----------



## Gabrielzm

weeeeee... Thanks guys. Sounds like all want will be possible with this case...


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roxycon*
> 
> im putting a serverstyle cpu cooler at the back of my cpu, its listed at phanteks site that youll have 30 mm to work with so ill gues i can have it active like your fan


Dynatron?


----------



## Roxycon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Dynatron?


either that or a cooljag, have to see where ill order my new wc gear from


----------



## Roxycon

Vortez review


----------



## ModernAfro

after the Vortez review and pics.,....... i've decided to dremel the bracket just for my two cards in SLI so it can still be installed so it'll cover the grommets. and the res will be under the rear fan....








now....still waiting on the release....


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roxycon*
> 
> either that or a cooljag, have to see where ill order my new wc gear from


Interesting...How do you plan to fix the thing on the back of the board?


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ModernAfro*
> 
> after the Vortez review and pics.,....... i've decided to dremel the bracket just for my two cards in SLI so it can still be installed so it'll cover the grommets. and the res will be under the rear fan....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> now....still waiting on the release....


How long are your cards?

I'm hoping to mod my reservoir bracket to fit my 292mm card.. time will tell.

Specs say 257mm reservoir bracket installed w/ cover, 277mm reservoir bracket installed w/o cover, 350mm no reservoir bracket, 390mm HDD cages in front position and 515mm no HDD cage..

Vortex review says
Quote:


> With the bracket/cover taken out of the case, cards up to 11.5" will fit inside Primo before the card touches the HDD cage


Did Phanteks change things or is Vortex mistaken?


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> How long are your cards?
> 
> I'm hoping to mod my reservoir bracket to fit my 292mm card.. time will tell.
> 
> Specs say 257mm reservoir bracket installed w/ cover, 277mm reservoir bracket installed w/o cover, 350mm no reservoir bracket, 390mm HDD cages in front position and 515mm no HDD cage..
> 
> Vortex review says
> Did Phanteks change things or is Vortex mistaken?


It's safe to say that Vortez is mistaken when they wrote "_With the bracket/cover taken out of the case, cards up to 11.5" will fit inside Primo before the card touches the HDD cage. - the HDD cage can also be taken out, allowing unlimited space for anything currently on the market._". The picture they have right under that shows there's 13" and then some because they are holding a 12" ruler with an inch or more on the end of it past the 12" mark and though you can't see the HDD cages in the pic, or know what position they are in, the ruler is not hitting them.

Just look at it, the ruler they are holding shows that 11.5" is somewhere about the middle of the bracket with the cover on. . .



Phanteks' specs say there's 13.78" or "350 mm (no reservoir bracket)" and 15.35" or "390 mm (HDD cages in front position)". So, unless I'm mistaken and there's some super long GPU out there I've never heard of, there's plenty of "space for anything currently on the market" with the HDD cages intact.

Also, the sentence after the picture: "_Graphics cards over 9.5" will require bracket/cover to be removed_" is a little misleading. The image doesn't show the res bracket with the cover off in which the recess in the bracket would have been 277mm / 10.9" which, although it would have been a tight fit, it should definitely have fit their 10.8" / 274mm XFX HD 7970 DD (my source for the length is Newegg. The Vortez article says their card is "10.5") without having to remove the res bracket entirely like they did.

In the first Monstermawd vid w/ Jesse they showed that with the cover off it's just shy of 11" before a card would hit the res bracket (which agrees w/ Phanteks' specs of 277mm = 10.9")



^ That's their "*11"* " graphic they put up in the video. Here's a link to that video at that part:






Also see right after that part Jesse and Bill show that a 10.5" Titan will fit. It's a little tight, but they hadn't removed the expansion slots and it still fit in there.

When it comes to the length of card that will fit the case, looks like Vortez got it all wrong, in every instance making it seem like the case won't fit cards that it will.. They got the lengths wrong in a couple places, both in what will fit with the bracket in place with the cover removed and what will fit with the bracket removed entirely, even implied you might have to remove the HDD cages for long cards. lol.

What's more, for their build they took the whole bracket out when they shouldn't have had to for that card and implied that their card wouldn't fit with it in, and they even downplayed the length of their 10.8" card by more than a 1/4" inferring that it's a 10.5" card and it won't fit with the res bracket on - cover off - when a 10.9" card should fit.

If I was Phanteks who supplied them an early case for a review I'd be all over them to correct it.


----------



## Roxycon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Interesting...How do you plan to fix the thing on the back of the board?


I'm going to lap my cpu the ek supremacy block and x heatsink and either thread the heatsink and use it as a backplate with thermal pads in-between or get some longer screws and bolt it in place, don't know the easiest most effective way yet, but the holes on the mb, block and heatsink do align so it should be doable..


----------



## Sunreeper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roxycon*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Interesting...How do you plan to fix the thing on the back of the board?
> 
> 
> 
> I'm going to lap my cpu the ek supremacy block and x heatsink and either thread the heatsink and use it as a backplate with thermal pads in-between or get some longer screws and bolt it in place, don't know the easiest most effective way yet, but the holes on the mb, block and heatsink do align so it should be doable..
Click to expand...

Don't lap your waterblock from what I've read waterblock manufacturers are giving their waterblocks a specific bow to accommodate the CPU. Lapping could potentially produce worse temperatures and get rid of your warranty. I'd shoot either derrick or the ek rep here with a pm asking them to clarify it. I think I remember them conforming that lapping now will do more harm then good but it doesn't hurt to check with them


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roxycon*
> 
> either that or a cooljag, have to see where ill order my new wc gear from


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Interesting...How do you plan to fix the thing on the back of the board?


It requires drilling out the original cpu back plate, from what I understand...



I have one of these in my box-o-stuff waiting for pickup at PPC... I'm still educating my self on how to properly install it... Iv'e only seen one person do it here on OCN, and i can no longer find the post.

I'm also not even positive if i'll have enough space in the back of the 900D to install it.









I keep finding video's of people who are using them on the top of the CPU, but i swear they can also be attached to the back of the mobo.


----------



## Roxycon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sunreeper*
> 
> Don't lap your waterblock from what I've read waterblock manufacturers are giving their waterblocks a specific bow to accommodate the CPU. Lapping could potentially produce worse temperatures and get rid of your warranty. I'd shoot either derrick or the ek rep here with a pm asking them to clarify it. I think I remember them conforming that lapping now will do more harm then good but it doesn't hurt to check with them


As said, I don't know the easiest most effective way yet







but tnx for warning me


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

I'm curious. Aren't those blower-style fans loud? The ones I've looked at the specs on all seem like they are pretty high rpm but don't list a dBa. Just looking at them seems like they'd probably roar like a tiny leaf blower.


----------



## Roxycon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> It requires drilling out the original cpu back plate, from what I understand...
> 
> I have one of these in my box-o-stuff waiting for pickup at PPC... I'm still educating my self on how to properly install it... Iv'e only seen one person do it here on OCN, and i can no longer find the post.
> 
> I'm also not even positive if i'll have enough space in the back of the 900D to install it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I keep finding video's of people who are using them on the top of the CPU, but i swear they can also be attached to the back of the mobo.


Here's the link to how a german dude did it in his 900D with a RIVE
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> I'm curious. Aren't those blower-style fans loud? The ones I've looked at the specs on all seem like they are pretty high rpm but don't list a dBa. Just looking at them seems like they'd probably roar like a tiny leaf blower.


the blower from dynatron is <45db, id rather go with a passive one then or get another fan


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> I'm curious. Aren't those blower-style fans loud? The ones I've looked at the specs on all seem like they are pretty high rpm but don't list a dBa. Just looking at them seems like they'd probably roar like a tiny leaf blower.


Yeah, they are loud, but the higher end ones have PWM control & from what I remember of some one else doing this, they were able to drill out screw blanks in the motherboard to fit it on the back.


----------



## air tree

Sorry i haven't read all the reviews and the whole thread but what kind of thickness of rads can we put in here? I'm thinking of putting a 480mm rad in the top and buttom and just leaving the front of the case open. Anything else i should know about the case?


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *air tree*
> 
> Sorry i haven't read all the reviews and the whole thread but what kind of thickness of rads can we put in here? I'm thinking of putting a 480mm rad in the top and buttom and just leaving the front of the case open. Anything else i should know about the case?


You can learn most of what you want by downloading the manual... Including what radiators will fit where. Once you know what case in and have a general idea of what can be done with it we will be glad to help.
And sense you are probably too lazy to even look up the link to download from








http://www.phanteks.com/assets/manuals/Enthoo-Primo.pdf


----------



## air tree

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> You can learn most of what you want by downloading the manual... Including what radiators will fit where. Once you know what case in and have a general idea of what can be done with it we will be glad to help.
> And sense you are probably too lazy to even look up the link to download from
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.phanteks.com/assets/manuals/Enthoo-Primo.pdf


I should have probably looked up the manual in the first place come to think of it


----------



## ModernAfro

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> How long are your cards?
> 
> I'm hoping to mod my reservoir bracket to fit my 292mm card.. time will tell.
> 
> Specs say 257mm reservoir bracket installed w/ cover, 277mm reservoir bracket installed w/o cover, 350mm no reservoir bracket, 390mm HDD cages in front position and 515mm no HDD cage..
> 
> Vortex review says
> Did Phanteks change things or is Vortex mistaken?


my gigabyte cards are 11.5in long. i think their review is mistaken with the total length of GPU space


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ModernAfro*
> 
> my gigabyte cards are 11.5in long. i think their review is mistaken with the total length of GPU space


Same length as mine. I'm hoping I can mod the reservoir bracket.. make the GPU cutout 15-16mm deeper / bracket 15-16mm narrower. from where notch is to bottom of bracket.

Scaling from the manual drawing the bracket appears to be about 88.5mm wide with GPU cutout being 68.5mm wide..







stock cutout is 20mm and we need it to be 35-36mm.. that leave the bracket 52-53mm wide bracket.. cut all the way to bottom of bracket?? Problem will be reinforcing the edge to look good. Maybe trim the folded edge off the whole length and put a new aluminum edge on.









The cover plastic place could than be cut to fit as needed.
Cutting it to a width of 53mm should clear our GPUs'


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roxycon*
> 
> Here's the link to how a german dude did it in his 900D with a RIVE
> the blower from dynatron is <45db, id rather go with a passive one then or get another fan


Thanks brother for the link. The thing I can not figure out is how he manage to secure both, the front block and the back block using the same holes...Or was it different holes altogether?

Cheers


----------



## ModernAfro

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Same length as mine. I'm hoping I can mod the reservoir bracket.. make the GPU cutout 15-16mm deeper / bracket 15-16mm narrower. from where notch is to bottom of bracket.
> 
> Scaling from the manual drawing the bracket appears to be about 88.5mm wide with GPU cutout being 68.5mm wide..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> stock cutout is 20mm and we need it to be 35-36mm.. that leave the bracket 52-53mm wide bracket.. cut all the way to bottom of bracket?? Problem will be reinforcing the edge to look good. Maybe trim the folded edge off the whole length and put a new aluminum edge on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The cover plastic place could than be cut to fit as needed.
> Cutting it to a width of 53mm should clear our GPUs'


i was thinking of cutting the indent on the bracket an inch more on the top and botton and folding the metal back so it wont be an jagged edge, then sand the top and paint it.


----------



## ModernAfro

the top and bottom red lines are cuts then the arrow is me bending the flap backwards so its not a jagged edge. and the green the crease on the bracket.

Image 18.jpg 30k .jpg file


----------



## Roxycon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Thanks brother for the link. The thing I can not figure out is how he manage to secure both, the front block and the back block using the same holes...Or was it different holes altogether?
> 
> Cheers


"Only now we aufgestetzt the copper cooler with 4x50mm screws and screwed to the motherboard, and the pad in the three holes then completely pure pressed."

its the only mention about screws.. and on the picture he provided you can se he used screws from the copper block on the back forth to the cpu block


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ModernAfro*
> 
> the top and bottom red lines are cuts then the arrow is me bending the flap backwards so its not a jagged edge. and the green the crease on the bracket.
> 
> Image 18.jpg 30k .jpg file


An inch more is 25.4mm... about 3/8" more than needed and leaving bracket 1.68" wide..

What I did was enlarge page 30 of the manual so the bracket was full size, than measured it.








I don't have a program that can copy from a .pdf or i would post it.

Another option if not using the reservoir bracket as a mounting bracket would be to cut the center section out of it completely ust leaving the mounting point top and bottom for the cover.. and just modify the plastic cover to fit around GPU.









The reason for cutting the bracket all the way to bottom is to allow mounting GPU lower on motheroard For best airflow to GPU. This way the bottom fan/fans can blow cool air directly at the GPU fans.

This should also help with cool air getting to CPU cooler without any heated air from GPU getting mixed in.

I'll probably mod the optical bay door with a vent and use 3x optical bays as an intake flowing air straight back to CPU cooler.

Mount audio card above GPU and all is good.


----------



## ModernAfro

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> An inch more is 25.4mm... about 3/8" more than needed and leaving bracket 1.68" wide..
> 
> What I did was enlarge page 30 of the manual so the bracket was full size, than measured it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't have a program that can copy from a .pdf or i would post it.
> 
> Another option if not using the reservoir bracket as a mounting bracket would be to cut the center section out of it completely ust leaving the mounting point top and bottom for the cover.. and just modify the plastic cover to fit around GPU.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The reason for cutting the bracket all the way to bottom is to allow mounting GPU lower on motheroard For best airflow to GPU. This way the bottom fan/fans can blow cool air directly at the GPU fans.
> 
> This should also help with cool air getting to CPU cooler without any heated air from GPU getting mixed in.
> 
> I'll probably mod the optical bay door with a vent and use 3x optical bays as an intake flowing air straight back to CPU cooler.
> 
> Mount audio card above GPU and all is good.


i was going to keep the cards close so since im planning on water cooling the entire card. and shouldn't need that much space between them


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ModernAfro*
> 
> i was going to keep the cards close so since im planning on water cooling the entire card. and shouldn't need that much space between them


Yeah, that makes sense. I don't have any water cooling at all and don't need it so it's an air cooled build.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

My short-pcb GTX 760 cards will fit, so I've no plans/need to modify the res bracket myself, but I had thought about it if I did have longer cards & wanted to use that bracket and was wondering if it wouldn't be possible, instead of cutting/modifying the left side of the bracket, if the whole bracket couldn't just be shifted to the right a little towards the front - requiring new mounting locations behind the bracket &/or new mounting holes in the bracket itself - and then take a dremel to, if necessary, anything on the right side of the bracket - that part you really don't see - that might then be hitting the HDD or 5.25" bays or whatever on that right side.

Assuming the HDD bays are shifted to the most forward position, that might not be much of anything that needs cut/modified from the bracket or whatever on the 5.25" bays that the bracket might be hitting if you shifted it right a little bit.

Know what I'm saying?

Just seems like if it was just 5, 10, 15, ... mm's you needed that way _might_ be better as it wouldn't entail modifying the curved recessed edge on the left that can be seen more easily, plus it looks like any cutting on that left side would necessarily affect the strength/support of the bracket.

I dunno. I'd have to really get my hands on the case myself to see what all could be done best. I can't wait.


----------



## Roxycon

Dosent look like that much of space.. Glad both my cards are 16 mm shorter than the limit


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> My short-pcb GTX 760 cards will fit, so I've no plans/need to modify the res bracket myself, but I had thought about it if I did have longer cards & wanted to use that bracket and was wondering if it wouldn't be possible, instead of cutting/modifying the left side of the bracket, if the whole bracket couldn't just be shifted to the right a little towards the front - requiring new mounting locations behind the bracket &/or new mounting holes in the bracket itself - and then take a dremel to, if necessary, anything on the right side of the bracket - that part you really don't see - that might then be hitting the HDD or 5.25" bays or whatever on that right side.
> 
> Assuming the HDD bays are shifted to the most forward position, that might not be much of anything that needs cut/modified from the bracket or whatever on the 5.25" bays that the bracket might be hitting if you shifted it right a little bit.
> 
> Know what I'm saying?
> 
> Just seems like if it was just 5, 10, 15, ... mm's you needed that way _might_ be better as it wouldn't entail modifying the curved recessed edge on the left that can be seen more easily, plus it looks like any cutting on that left side would necessarily affect the strength/support of the bracket.
> 
> I dunno. I'd have to really get my hands on the case myself to see what all could be done best. I can't wait.


I know what you are saying, but it would get pretty messy. You have quite a bit in terms of the HDD cage mounts, ODD mounts and MB tray over there to contend with. It would be a much more difficult undertaking than modding the bracket and cover. You also need to keep in mind how easy the cover is to work with and that it is capable of hiding a multitude of sins.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

FWIW, looks like Vortez read the comment I had posted on their review (mirrored some of the issues I brought up here about it) and have made corrections to their review (and removed my comment while they were at it).


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Assuming the HDD bays are shifted to the most forward position, that might not be much of anything that needs cut/modified from the bracket or whatever on the 5.25" bays that the bracket might be hitting if you shifted it right a little bit.
> 
> Know what I'm saying?
> 
> Just seems like if it was just 5, 10, 15, ... mm's you needed that way _might_ be better as it wouldn't entail modifying the curved recessed edge on the left that can be seen more easily, plus it looks like any cutting on that left side would necessarily affect the strength/support of the bracket.
> 
> I dunno. I'd have to really get my hands on the case myself to see what all could be done best. I can't wait.


Interesting idea.
* Moving bracket forwardt would mean it wouldn't cover the cabling by the same 5,10, 15, ..mm,
* The threaded mounting holes on front side would not be usable and the back mounting holes would need to have new holes drilled in case.
* Might need to modify 5.25" bay cage to use bracket for reservoir.
We need our cases to really figure this all out.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> FWIW, looks like Vortez read the comment I had posted on their review (mirrored some of the issues I brought up here about it) and have made corrections to their review (and removed my comment while they were at it).


Sounds par for Vortex.









They do all their cooler reviews with a system in a case.. but they do not monitor the temperature of air going into the cooler.. but instead use the room temperature.








The CLC coolers exhaust all their heated air with the case separating the cool intake from heated exhaust. But the air cooler tests do not do this.. and heated cooler exhaust air mixes with cooler intake air heating it up by several degrees and that makes CPU that much hotter too. How much hotter?? We don't know... no temperature is monitored in front of cooler intakes... just somewhere else in the room!.


----------



## Roxycon




----------



## rpjkw11

Since the Primo won't be released until 10/18 what are the criteria for joining the club? I've not yet pre-ordered, but after following this case since June I will be a happy owner at the earliest.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rpjkw11*
> 
> Since the Primo won't be released until 10/18 what are the criteria for joining the club? I've not yet pre-ordered, but after following this case since June I will be a happy owner at the earliest.


Consider yourself a member!
We are an 'informal club' here.








A group of Enthoo Primo enthusiasts.


----------



## Hereisphilly

Just sold my beloved FT02









So i'm now running this nasty box till the Primo comes! (Mind you for £30 i cant really ask for much)


October 4th cant come soon enough!


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hereisphilly*
> 
> Just sold my beloved FT02
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So i'm now running this nasty box till the Primo comes! (Mind you for £30 i cant really ask for much)
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You are just spoiled. FT02 is very nice case. Kinda like driving up in a BMW and leaving in a VW bug.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> October 4th cant come soon enough!


Hate raining on your parade but last I heard it's October 18th.


----------



## Hereisphilly

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Hate raining on your parade but last I heard it's October 18th.


I'm still holding out hope as Overclockers UK has the eta as the 4th! But yeah, I can see it being the 18th, all depends on shipping time from the factory to the distributors, and allocation...


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Yeah, I've eyeballed swiftech's PWM hub before - looks like they have discontinued that molex powered one and have a sata powered one now - which is a possibility, but it works with 4 pin PWM fans.
> 
> As I understand it, the Phanteks hub uses a 4 pin from the mobo to allow you to control up to 11 standard 3 pin fans. Instead of pulse modulation, it's going to do it by voltage regulation. I looked a bit and didn't find another fan hub like it. I'd like to have two of the Phanteks ones, not just to be able to run all of my fans off of them, but to be able to do the push fans of each rad on one and the pull fans off of the other, to add some redundancy in case one of the hubs fail, and to be able to stay well below their rated capacity. I've had pretty bad luck with fan hubs and fan controllers in the past.
> 
> With my planned 480 up top, a 360 below, that's 14 120mm fans right there, and add in the two 140 mm fans up front and one 140mm on the rear it'd be 16 fans in all that I'd like to have PWM-controlled. Well, maybe the front fans I'll let run at max rpm if they're not too loud like that, if just because I'd like to try to keep a positive pressure in the case with more CFM pulling in than exhausting out.


Have ya looked at the ones from ModMyToys ?

http://www.frozencpu.com/cat/l3/g/c17/s424/list/p1/b214/ModMyToys-Fan_Controllers-Multi_Fan_Ports-Page1.html

Personally, I'd love to do 420 x 60 on top and 420 x 80 on bottom both in pull only, at least initially ...one PCB controlling the rad fans and other the case fans. The FAQ says no....the H2O vid implies yes and in the video review they got the Monsta in......I decided to just wait till I have one and then see what fits.

However, we ain't heard a peep about the availability of the extra fans or PCB. I'm also curious as to how they work with Asus 1 click fan tuning.

While I'm at it .... two questions:

1. Pump Tray - Anyone have any idea as to what "fits" on the pump tray. Dimensions ? I'd need 126mm x 80mm to fit a MCP35X2 w/ heat sink
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/16233/ex-pmp-195/Swiftech_MCP35x2_Dual_Pump_Heatsink_MCP35X2-HS.html

2. I was considering grabbing one of these buggers to make it easier to fill loops. Then it occured to me, why not just leave it connected. Two issues come to mind.
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=31784

a) Adds an extra power cord which needs ti be snaked inside the case.
b) I'd want a fail safe shutdown in case the pump cord got accidentally disconnected....Will the PWM function perform this function adequately ?


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> Have ya looked at the ones from ModMyToys ?
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/cat/l3/g/c17/s424/list/p1/b214/ModMyToys-Fan_Controllers-Multi_Fan_Ports-Page1.html


I don't think those MMT afford PWM control over it's own powered fan connections like the Phanteks or the Swiftech hubs do, they just split the input fan cable feed which isn't going to work for my purposes, plus I read here on a topic recently quite a few people saying really bad things about them as far as reliability. If/When I want to just split a fan cable I make my own custom sleeved cables to do that without the need for a possibly untrustworthy pcb adapter and it affords me tidier cable management.

The Swiftech hub uses the pwm from the mobo to control more 4-pin pwm fans. That won't work for me either, because all my fans are going to be 3 pin. The Phanteks hub is unique I believe, in that it uses a PWM connection to the mobo to control ~ eleven 3-pin fans.

I have already ordered fourteen 120mm (for push-pull on a 480 and a 360 rad) and one 140mm GeLid UV Blue Wings fans, all 3 pin, that should be arriving here on Tues-Wed (I also have ordered XSPC waterblocks and backplates for my GTX760s, a 4-pack of primochill rigid UV Blue tubing & UV case lighting). I could just get a fan controller for the lot of them, and the new Aquaero 6 is an eventual possibility, but for right now I'd rather just have an extra Phanteks PWM hub. I've my fingers crossed that there's at least a chance that the case will come with an extra one as a gift for those of us who pre-ordered or at least that they will offer extras for sale as soon as the cases begin shipping.

I guess what I'll do for starters is just hook up all of the exhaust fans - the 8 fans on the top 480 rad and the rear 140mm - to the PWM hub and see what leaving the intake fans - two front Phanteks 140s and the bottom 6 fans on my 360 rad - will sound like at full rpm. That, or the GeLids all come with their own bulky fan speed controls - but I don't know that they are rated for more than one fan each or where I'd have room for 6-8 of them though, or I do have some short 3 pin 12v-to-7v voltage step-down speed reducer cables from some Prolimatech fans. I dunno. We'll see what works.
Quote:


> Personally, I'd love to do 420 x 60 on top and 420 x 80 on bottom both in pull only, at least initially ...one PCB controlling the rad fans and other the case fans. The FAQ says no....the H2O vid implies yes and in the video review they got the Monsta in......I decided to just wait till I have one and then see what fits.


I didn't think a 140mm series rad longer than 280 is going to fit down on the bottom. In the first monstermawd/Jesse video review they showed a hardwarelabs black ice 280 rad wouldn't even fit there and let the side panel be put on, but most other 280s should just barely fit, but that means anything longer than 280 isn't going to be able to fit past the part of the case w/ the 5.25" bay locking buttons that comes down and hides the HDD bays (has the 'Phanteks' plate on it). Unless I'm mistaken only 120mm series rads will fit behind that.

I think down bottom our choices are going to be limited to 140, 280, 120, 240, 360 or 480 rads. That's what the manual says too ...


Quote:


> 1. Pump Tray - Anyone have any idea as to what "fits" on the pump tray. Dimensions ? I'd need 126mm x 80mm to fit a MCP35X2 w/ heat sink
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/16233/ex-pmp-195/Swiftech_MCP35x2_Dual_Pump_Heatsink_MCP35X2-HS.html


The bracket is made for a single pump. I don't think it's big enough for what you want to use it for. This is from the owner's manual ...


----------



## doyll

Hardwarelabs Black Ice 280 rad is wider than other 140mm fan radiators; HardwareLabs is 153mm wide compared to EK being 146mm, ThermalChill is 142mm, Phobya is 145mm, Alpha is 144mm or XSPC at 143mm wide.

I've just asked Jesse over on TheModZoo about 420 radiators fitting. He should crawl out of bed pretty soon.









Edit:
Jesse says:
Quote:


> As long as its not wider than the alphacool 420, it will fit. We tested that in the first video.


So I'm asking now if 2mm more will fit.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Hardwarelabs Black Ice 280 rad is wider than other 140mm fan radiators; HardwareLabs is 153mm wide compared to EK being 146mm, ThermalChill is 142mm, Phobya is 145mm, Alpha is 144mm or XSPC at 143mm wide.
> 
> I've just asked Jesse over on TheModZoo about 420 radiators fitting. He should crawl out of bed pretty soon.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Edit:
> Jesse says:
> So I'm asking now if 2mm more will fit.


That's exactly what I was saying above. The Black ice rad wouldn't fit at all because it's a tiny bit wider than others, but "most other 280s should just barely fit". However, JackNaylorPE above said he wanted to put a 420 down on the bottom. I was just pointing out that the longest 140mm wide rad that will fit is going to be a 280.

If a 280 (other than the Black Ice rad) just barely fits in there and clears the side panel, that means (like I wrote above) a 420 will not be able to "fit past the part of the case w/ the 5.25" bay locking buttons that comes down and hides the HDD bays (has the 'Phanteks' plate on it)"



Only 120mm series rads (360, 480) will be able to fit behind that panel.


----------



## doyll

What I asked Jesse was
Quote:


> Jesse, will a 420 fit in the bottom?


His answer indicates to me that anything less than 144mm wide will fit.









Edit:
Probably requires removing the panel at front like they did in MonsterMawd video review about 29:30. About 33:10 you can see how a 420 would be able to fit.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

I don't believe that's true for a 420. I believe a 140 or a 280 rad up to 144mm wide will fit, but not a 420. There's no way that panel isn't going to be in the way.


----------



## doyll

I just edited my last post about that panel.









I believe your are right about not clearing the panel but with panel removed it they will. Could cut panel at bottom of 5.25" bays and put the top part back in.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

If you cut that panel you'd be taking a HUGE hit on structural stability. The Phanteks designer talks about it in his interviews. The entire case with removeable/repositionable HDD trays, etc and all was built around that panel stiffening up the case.

Besides, there's nothing left to it without that panel. lol. Might as well buy any old case to put your system in if you are going to gut it to it's shell like that.


----------



## doyll

I can't be sure until I get mine and check but my guess is the motherboard / PSU panel will give the case plenty of structural stability.


----------



## jassilamba

I will double check and confirm what I said. I have a spare 420 at home and will check it out once I get home. Whatever I find, I will update the review and the FAQ. Thanks for bringing this up guys.

Worst comes you can remove the panel in question, cut it in half and not use the lower portion of the panel.

Update: I suppose I should watch the video I help make again to make sure what I said. But as I said in the video to fit a 420 the panel HAS to be removed/modified, the case is very solidly built, and will hold fine with panel cut in half. And if you're still worried about the structure strength then you can always make your own support bar using aluminum strips that you can easily find at your local hardware store. I will update the review regarding the 420.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

The 100m thick 420 Monsta is 148.6mm wide
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/14193/ex-rad-141/MagiCool_Limited_Edition_Monsta_420360_Triple_120mm_140mm_Xtreme_Performance_Radiator.html

The 80mmm thick one is 468 x *144* x 86mm
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/18794/ex-rad-491/Alphacool_NexXxoS_Monsta_Triple_140mm_Radiator_-_80mm_Thick.html?tl=g30c95s931

So with 144 stated as being the maximum allowable width ???? Seems like it just squeezes in.

Quote:


> I don't think those MMT afford PWM control over it's own powered fan connections like the Phanteks or the Swiftech hubs do, they just split the input fan cable feed which isn't going to work for my purposes, plus I read here on a topic recently quite a few people saying really bad things about them as far as reliability. If/When I want to just split a fan cable I make my own custom sleeved cables to do that without the need for a possibly untrustworthy pcb adapter and it affords me tidier cable management.


I took this MMT reference from a SIngularity Computers review on youtube who said he uses them on every build to control fan speeds and reduce cable clutter. ... I have asked Mark at frozencpu.com to verify but I'm pretty sure the PWM version PCB at least controls all the attached PWM fans.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> I took this MMT reference from a SIngularity Computers review on youtube who said he uses them on every build to control fan speeds and reduce cable clutter. ... I have asked Mark at frozencpu.com to verify but I'm pretty sure the PWM version PCB at least controls all the attached PWM fans.


I probably wasn't clear. Looking at the MMT hubs they don't have a port for a separate power input to power the fans, so essentially they are just splitters, splitting a single 4 pin or 3 pin input to allow you to attach multiple fans to it, and all of the power to them will be coming from that single 4-pin or 3-pin input.

That's not what I want at all.

The Phanteks hub has a 4 pin PWM input from the motherboard and a 4 pin molex input to power the fans. It doesn't use the 4-pin input to power the fans at all. It uses the 4 pin input PWM signal to adjust the voltage supplied by the separate molex input to power up to eleven 3 pin (non-PWM) fans. That's exactly what I want/need. I've already ordered fifteen 3-pin (non-PWM) fans for my system, and would like to be able to have the voltage to them controlled via the motherboard PWM signal the way the Phanteks hub does. I have looked and do not believe anyone else makes such a device.

The Enthoo Primo has locations to mount 2 of their hubs, which is what I will need. Otherwise I'll probably have to resort to using a separate fan controller.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> I probably wasn't clear. Looking at the MMT hubs they don't have a port for a separate power input to power the fans, so essentially they are just splitters, splitting a single 4 pin or 3 pin input to allow you to attach multiple fans to it, and all of the power to them will be coming from that single 4-pin or 3-pin input.
> .


No, I guess it was me that wasn't clear. sorry. I shuda just stuck to the one link and not listed all the others

Has both SATA and Molex power supply and 4 pins fan headers .... I have no idea if the 4 pin header will work w/ ya 3 pin fans tho


Quote:


> ModMyToys 4-Pin Molex/SATA Power Distribution PCB is the perfect organizational solution for hard core modder's, water cooling enthusiasts and other power users that use a large amount of cooling fans in their systems or servers. Why use clumsy Y splitters that just add to cable clutter when you can have a clean point to distribute power? These small PCB's are made of the highest quality and include and easy to install preinstalled black mount rail and Velcro strip. This allows you to mount virtually anywhere in your case including all those hidden places modder's like to route their cables to. For those that want the best look these have a black PCB and connectors. So, eliminate all those extra cables and install the ModMyToys 4-pin/SATA power distribution PCB to be a Pro!


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

OK I looked though those MMT hubs and I admit I hadn't seen that one before, but it still works with 4-pin PWM fans (similar to the Swiftech hub). It still wouldn't work for what I need. Like I have said before, I would need to control via PWM a bunch of 3-pin (non-PWM) fans, and AFAIK the Phanteks hub is the only thing like it.



That's what I need, but I need to be able to control seventeen 3-pin fans in all (The two front Phanteks 140mm, a rear 140mm GeLid UV Blue, and fourteen 120mm GeLid UV Blue fans for push-pull on a 480 rad and a 360 rad) which would require two of the hubs.


----------



## doyll

As I understand it the Phanteks fan hub is not a PWM hub.. it does not control the fans with PWM signal but uses variable voltage control. It is a 3pin fan hub.. no 4th PWM control pin. As for how the Phanteks hub actually works I do not yet know. Maybe it's pulsing the 12v power to the fans instead of actually using voltage control.

That would mean it's using similar circuitry to what a PWM fan uses only more powerful.. more amps of 12v power. I will find out... but have to get one to check out first.









The ModMyToys 4-Pin Molex / SATA Power Distribution PCB 8x PWM + 2x 4-pin Block (MMT-PCB-4-8P2M1S) is a mystery. I don't know how it would control PWM fans using PWM signal and also control randomly plugged in 3pin fans. Would love to get ahold of one and figure it out.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> That's what I need, but I need to be able to control seventeen 3-pin fans in all (The two front Phanteks 140mm, a rear 140mm GeLid UV Blue, and fourteen 120mm GeLid UV Blue fans for push-pull on a 480 rad and a 360 rad) which would require two of the hubs.


yeah....I wasn't sure if ya cud plug a 3 pin on the MMT headers and have it still work.... I doubt it but hopefully will get answer from mark today.

Do you have hold downs ? I think that case will levitate like a hovercraft when you turn all those fans on









Ya have any idea on my other question ?
=====================
2. I was considering grabbing one of these buggers to make it easier to fill loops. Then it occured to me, why not just leave it connected. Two issues come to mind.
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=31784

a) Adds an extra power cord which needs to be snaked inside the case.
b) I'd want a fail safe shutdown in case the pump cord got accidentally disconnected...._Will the PWM cable from the pump perform this function adequately ?_
=====================

Seems somebody wuda thot of a PSU by now with a pass thru 120v connector that ya could use to run a 2nd PSU ... or at least one that has a switchable circuit for just running ya WC stuff.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> As I understand it the Phanteks fan hub is not a PWM hub.. it does not control the fans with PWM but uses variable voltage control. It is a 3pin fan hub.. not 4th PWM control pin. As for how the Phanteks hub actually works I do not yet know. Maybe it's pulsing the 12v power to the fans instead of actually using voltage control.
> 
> That would mean it's using similar circuitry to what a PWM fan uses only more powerful.. more amps of 12v power. I will find out... but have to get one to check out first.


The Phanteks hub uses the PWM signal from the mobo to adjust the voltage to 3-pin (non-PWM) fans. I'm almost positive it uses the PWM input signal to adjust the voltage from the molex to 3-pin fans. At least that's how the designer from Phanteks Dutch office described how it works in video interviews at Computex 2013. It's not trying to turn 3-pin fans into PWM fans.

If, as you suggested, it were to 'pulse' the 12v to change speeds to the fans (like the despised original Cosmos II fan controller did before they were forced to offer a free replacement) it would result in loud clicking fans for the majority of 3-pin fans (very few 3-pin fans handle pulsing voltages well, especially at lower speeds), and if so we will see a ton of complaints about it in no time at all.

I seriously doubt any other case manufacturer would ever go down that route, especially not Phanteks who, on top of having built a great reputation on their own when it comes to fans/cooling, their parent company, Axpertec, also owns the likes of Noctua and NZXT.

Quote:


> The ModMyToys 4-Pin Molex / SATA Power Distribution PCB 8x PWM + 2x 4-pin Block (MMT-PCB-4-8P2M1S) is a mystery. I don't know how it would control PWM fans using PWM signal and also control randomly plugged in 3pin fans. Would love to get ahold of one and figure it out.


There's no mystery at all. It will only work with 4-pin PWM fans. If you plug a 3 pin fan into ANY 4-pin PWM port, you will only get an unregulated 12v - full power. That 4th wire is what tells PWM fans what speed to turn at and it can only work specifically with 4-pin PWM fans. It aint going to work with 3-pin fans.

That's what makes the Phanteks hub unique. It's using that PWM signal to control 3-pin fans which need to be controlled by adjusting the voltage.


----------



## doyll

I agree. What ever way the hub works I'm sure it will work to our satifaction.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Well. if by some stroke of bad luck the Phanteks' fan hub does disappoint, or if I can't get my hands on an extra to control all of my fans, it won't be that big of a deal to me. I've already been considering adding an Aquaero 6 to my system to control all my fans and pumps, but didn't want to have to go that route until after I'd basically had everything else like I wanted it. Or maybe I'll settle for a Lamptron CW611 instead. It's a lot cheaper than the Aquaero 5 or 6 and seems like it can probably accomplish most everything I'd want it to.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Well. if by some stroke of bad luck the Phanteks' fan hub does disappoint, or if I can't get my hands on an extra to control all of my fans, it won't be that big of a deal to me. I've already been considering adding an Aquaero 6 to my system to control all my fans and pumps, but didn't want to have to go that route until after I'd basically had everything else like I wanted it. Or maybe I'll settle for a Lamptron CW611 instead. It's a lot cheaper than the Aquaero 5 or 6 and seems like it can probably accomplish most everything I'd want it to.


Right on target! Just got this exact model (Lamptron CW611) and 12 GT AP 15 to go along with my build in the E. Primo. Just tested yesterday and works great. The thing that sold me to Lamptron is that apparently is the only fan controllers out there not damping tons of heat inside your case. I read that somewhere here in OCN and it is right on target. My current fan controller is a Schyte one and quite nice but it does get hot after a while dumping all the heat inside the case.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Yeah, the Aquaero 6 is also supposed to generate almost no heat, but even still there will be a waterblock available for it if you are worried about the little bit of heat it would generate.

The Aquaero 6 is gonna cost something like 2.5x as much as a Lamptron CW611 will though.

If the Phanteks fan hub works like it's supposed to, and if I can get my hands on an extra one so I can add all of my fans to it, then I'll probably use them for quite a while, and then get the Aquaero 6 eventually - maybe a few months down the line. It's not out yet - releases a day or so before the Enthoo Primo - but if it's as heavy-duty as it looks to be, and it has awesome software controls for it, that's really what I'll want to be able to comfortably control all my fans and dual D5 pumps.

However, if the Phanteks hub isn't cutting it for any reason, or if Phanteks doesn't offer an extra one for sale by itself real soon after the case release so I can control all my fans, then for now I figure I'll probably go ahead and get that Lamptron CW611 right off-the-bat and give it a whirl. Not sure I'd trust using it to control the pumps though. It supposedly can, but just amperage alone for two pumps would really be pushing it. Not a huge deal since I'll just set the vario on the D5s manually anyway.

The aquaero 6 though is a beast. I'm sure it'll be able to handle the dual pumps and all my fans.


----------



## skupples

If you are looking to use one of these, be aware that your fans will be stuck @ 100% unless you get one that has a pwm adapter that hooks to your mother board... SATA/MOLEX/6pin/8pin will all push 100% w/o some sort of outside signal.


----------



## air tree

I'm going to stuff two 480mm monsta rads in this thing, Even though i'm only going to have a single R-290X and a 4670k haha!


----------



## ModernAfro

Anyone see the new 750D case? Looks tempting, and i could start the build right now... but it nowhere near as sleek and nice as the Enthoo Primo!


----------



## Syzygy1290

I'm debating between this and the 900D. Can you fit the front side 240 rad with a 480 in the bottom? I assume you can't fit the 480 in the bottom with the front 240.

Edit: put in wrong #


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ModernAfro*
> 
> Anyone see the new 750D case? Looks tempting, and i could start the build right now... but it nowhere near as sleek and nice as the Enthoo Primo!


Please read forum rules about using bad language. Those 3 digits & D are a 4 letter word & not acceptable here.


----------



## Roxycon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Syzygy1290*
> 
> I'm debating between this and the 900D. Can you fit the front side 240 rad with a 480 in the bottom? I assume you can't fit the 280 in the bottom with the front 240.


240+ 480 should be doable, with some minor mods and/ or slim fans/rad.. I assume you very well could fit 280+240, and if you go slim rad in front you could also fit both the 240s and a 280, but fitting the side 240 rad would mean no 3,5" drives..


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Syzygy1290*
> 
> I'm debating between this and the 900D. Can you fit the front side 240 rad with a 480 in the bottom? I assume you can't fit the 480 in the bottom with the front 240.
> 
> Edit: put in wrong #


Please read forum rules about using bad language. Those 3 digits & D are a 4 letter word & not acceptable here.









PM jassilamba. He's the man with the answers about what will fit in Primo.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Syzygy1290*
> 
> I'm debating between this and the 900D. Can you fit the front side 240 rad with a 480 in the bottom? I assume you can't fit the 480 in the bottom with the front 240.
> 
> Edit: put in wrong #


A 480 in the bottom will go from front to back with just a tiny bit of space left over (to do so you will lose the bottom HDD cage). Not enough for a rad in the front.
Although you could use the included bracket to put a 240 in the side with a 480 in the bottom (at the expense of the top HDD cage also).

See here (link is ~34min into monstermawd/Jesse review):


----------



## Syzygy1290

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roxycon*
> 
> 240+ 480 should be doable, with some minor mods and/ or slim fans/rad.. I assume you very well could fit 280+240, and if you go slim rad in front you could also fit both the 240s and a 280, but fitting the side 240 rad would mean no 3,5" drives..


I'm not too worried about 3.5 drives. I only have 2 and I can get something like this...
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/18273/cpa-627/Akasa_Cagestor_C31_Triple_525_Drive_Bay_to_Quad_35_HDD_Expansion_Kit_AK-HDA-07.html?tl=g43c12s852


----------



## Syzygy1290

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> A 480 in the bottom will go from front to back with just a tiny bit of space left over (to do so you will lose the bottom HDD cage). Not enough for a rad in the front.
> Although you could use the included bracket to put a 240 in the side with a 480 in the bottom (at the expense of the top HDD cage also).
> 
> See here (link is ~34min into monstermawd/Jesse review):


Thanks, I'll go through the video after work.


----------



## Roxycon

What is my maximum thickness in the roof for a rad (480) if i populate all the odd cages? (1 dual bay res and 3 bay to 5x3,25" converter)


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roxycon*
> 
> What is my maximum thickness in the roof for a rad (480) if i populate all the odd cages? (1 dual bay res and 3 bay to 5x3,25" converter)


I was wondering that too. Jesse or someone with a case would have to answer it for sure, but from the pics and videos I scoured trying to answer that myself it looked to me like a 30mm and maybe a 45mm thick rad will fit without costing you the top 5.25" bay, but that's with no fans. I'm almost positive that with push fans on most any 480 rad, except _maybe_ a slim 30mm, is going to interfere with most anything you'd want to put in that top bay.

I might be wrong - hope I am - but I'm hoping to be running a 60mm (or at least a 45mm) thick 480 in push-pull up top, so I've already all-but kissed that top bay away for using it with anything except possibly a fan controller or something that doesn't extend very far into the bay.

EDIT:
Here's some of what I'm basing my assumptions off of. Look at this - or most any other - image of the case ...
1. Look at the 25mm thick fan installed.
2. Look at the top row of mobo standoffs which will be about ~7-10mm from edge of mobo. Jesse already noted that there is 70mm of clearance from top of mobo to top of case.I assume that means the standoffs should be approx 78-80mm from top of the case.



** I believe that the "~80mm" line is a tad lower looking than it really is on the front of the bays because it's measured from a point on the back of the case and the angle the picture was taken from, but for the same reasons the 25mm line should be pretty close to right on the money.

another edit: Here's another look at it. This is themodzoo's Jesse's 45mm rad up top in pull (no fans mounted below it) ..



So, given all that, what size rad (+ fan) do you think will fit without interfering with the top 5.25" bay?

Looks to me like only a 30mm rad with no push fan for sure & possibly a 30mm w/ a push fan or a 45mm rad without one ought to just barely fit.

That said, not sure anyone would want to put a 45mm rad or a 30mm rad with a push fan there (assuming they will fit) with them sitting right on top of something like a disc drive or a res blocking airflow.

Late edit:
Come to think of it, looking at that image I did up, looks like if I did go with a 60mm thick 480 in push-pull I'd likely be sacrificing my top two 5.25" drive bays. Dayum! I think I'm going to start considering that I'll be putting a 45mm thick 480 up top after all. I can deal with losing the top bay, especially if there's a possibility I'll be able to still fit an Aquaero 6 there since it doesn't extend very far into the bay at all (even less if I take a dremel to the sides of it), but I wasn't really planning on losing two.


----------



## Terminus14

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Syzygy1290*
> 
> I'm debating between this and the 900D. Can you fit the front side 240 rad with a 480 in the bottom? I assume you can't fit the 480 in the bottom with the front 240.
> 
> Edit: put in wrong #


Watch this video starting at 1m 31s.


----------



## rpjkw11

I've been following the 750D, too, but I'm convinced the Primo is more advanced, better designed, and at the least equal to Corsair's quality. Styling and looks, though, the Enthoo Primo is the winner hands down. I'm more than willing to wait for the Primo.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rpjkw11*
> 
> I've been following the 750D, too, but I'm convinced the Primo is more advanced, better designed, and at the least equal to Corsair's quality. Styling and looks, though, the Enthoo Primo is the winner hands down. I'm more than willing to wait for the Primo.


I'd say all the same when comparing the Enthoo Primo to the 900D. The 750D isn't even anywhere near the same league as this case. The 900D is, but it's butt-ugly just like all Corsair cases are imho, especially if you remove any of the wide bay covers to install any drives. The 900D lacks the style and innovation of the Phanteks case in every aspect, but it does have more room. If you're needing to go tri/quad sli &/or dual PSU then the 900D would probably be a better pragmatic choice but none of the other Corsair cases offer anything the Enthoo Primo doesn't do better. You'd have to start hacking away at an 800D with a dremel to be able to fit anywhere near the rads the Phanteks case was designed to accommodate.

Honestly. if everything I want to be able to do wouldn't fit in the Enthoo Primo (which it all does and then some), I still wouldn't go for a 900D even if it cost half what Corsair wants for it. I just don't like the looks of it. I'd have to go with a Caselabs case instead, and even though they are full of awesome in every respect, when it comes down to what the case looks like, I still don't find anything by Caselabs anywhere near as appealing as the Enthoo Primo.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> If you are looking to use one of these, be aware that your fans will be stuck @ 100% unless you get one that has a pwm adapter that hooks to your mother board... SATA/MOLEX/6pin/8pin will all push 100% w/o some sort of outside signal.


That is the PWM one .... it's in the description.
Quote:


> 4-Pin Molex / SATA Power Distribution PCB 8x *PWM* + 2x 4-pin Block (MMT-PCB-4-8P2M1S)
> 
> Input Power: 1 x *4-Pin* Molex Female and 1 x SATA
> Output Power: *8 x PWM* or 3-Pin (Mix & Match), 2 x Molex Male


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> The 100m thick 420 Monsta is 148.6mm wide
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/14193/ex-rad-141/MagiCool_Limited_Edition_Monsta_420360_Triple_120mm_140mm_Xtreme_Performance_Radiator.html
> 
> The 80mmm thick one is 468 x *144* x 86mm
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/18794/ex-rad-491/Alphacool_NexXxoS_Monsta_Triple_140mm_Radiator_-_80mm_Thick.html?tl=g30c95s931
> 
> So with 144 stated as being the maximum allowable width ???? Seems like it just squeezes in.


OK, looking at Jesse's FAQ today......

http://themodzoo.com/forum/index.php?/page/articles.html/_/reviews/cases/phanteks-enthoo-primo-full-tower-review-r67?pg=7

He lists 120, 240, 360, 480, 140m 280m 420 for both Top and Bottom.

And later on in the Q & A
Quote:


> doyll, on 23 Sept 2013 - 07:21 AM, said:
> Jesse, will a 420 fit in the bottom?
> 
> As long as its not wider than the alphacool 420, it will fit. We tested that in the first video.


So looks like I get lucky


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

I believe Jesse's writing that a 420 will fit on the bottom is simply an error. I am certain a 420 will not fit on the bottom without serious modification to the case.

If you just watch the first video Jesse made with Bill from Monstermawds you can see that a 420 will not fit without cutting away the bottom of the panel with the 'Phanteks' plate attached to it. They even try to set a 420 rad down there, but they can't except tilted up at a serious angle. Jesse even says "_This is a 420. Maybe we can test with this_ [alphacool 420], _just to get an idea, but for us to do that, this panel has to come off_."

Watch it:





The Phanteks manual even says that only a 140 or 280 "140mm form factor" will fit on the bottom, and as a matter of fact only 360 and 480 radiators that are "_125mm width max_" will fit down there. That's because there is only 125mm space between that panel and the wall the PSU is behind. A 420 will not fit there.


----------



## Roxycon

@ unicron, im 99% sure that youll not loose two of the odd bays, you cant go lower than your ram (if you can please correct me and link to those lowprofile modules) since the rad isnt offset that much like some of the fractal design cases.. Ah, why couldnt they add 15 mm to the top for a monsta/ut60 and full population?


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roxycon*
> 
> @ unicron, im 99% sure that youll not loose two of the odd bays, you cant go lower than your ram (if you can please correct me and link to those lowprofile modules) since the rad isnt offset that much like some of the fractal design cases.. Ah, why couldnt they add 15 mm to the top for a monsta/ut60 and full population?


Jesse writes in his FAQs that 120mm series rads are offset by quite a bit:
Quote:


> What is the max clearance for a radiator installed in the top panel?
> 
> - The case has a clearance of 70mm for mounting a radiator in the roof. The mounts are offset by ~54mm so installing a 60mm (120mm series) radiator in push pull should not be an issue. As long as you do not have anything taller than 53mm on the motherboard (including ram), you can even install a 480mm monsta radiator in push pull. The X79 Dark, and G-Skill ram CAN be used with a monsta rad in push pull.


I've no plans to try to put a 480 monsta up there, and not sure how that would work though, as even if your memory and mobo heatsinks all were under 54mm, I'm not sure you'd be able to cram tubing and fittings to a CPU waterblock in that amount of space, and it looks to me like a monsta, especially with push fans, would hang down as far as the CPU on most boards. Or if not I suspect it'd be close.

I really would like to put a 60mm 480 up there in push pull, but not at the expense of 2 of my 5.25 bays. Even if a 60mm thick rad with a push fan will fit just above that 2nd from the top bay, I wouldn't want to do that if it would be so close to a disc drive or whatnot I might want to put there that it impeded airflow. It's not that big a deal to me though if I have to settle for a 45mm 480 instead. The cooling performance differences between a UT60 and an XT45 are pretty minor.

I do like asking questions & figuring out for myself what might work or not, but I'll just need to wait on my case to be delivered to see for myself what will fit before I order my rads. No big deal.

On another note:
The first wave of items to go in my Enthoo Primo has arrived











14 GeLid UV Blue wing 120s (for push-pull on a 480 and a 360 rad), a bunch of power connectors (24-pin, 8-pin, pci-e, sata, a set of modular plugs for an AX1200) & all new pins to go in them from ModDIY, and an order of black and blue braided cable sleeving, heatshrink & a new crimper from MDPC. Also, (not pictured) I got a new heat gun & soldering iron, solder, a set of helping hands, an auto-wire stripper, and a couple spools of 18awg & 22awg hook-up wire.

And tomorrow I should have my GPU waterblocks and a few other goodies delivered also.


----------



## doyll

Nice, blue and black to match the blue light strip. Looking forward to seeing your build.









To use a 420 in bottom; the side panel with Phanteks logo on it has to be removed.

To use a 480 in bottom is no problem. Jesse's build has a 480 Monsta bottom radiator in his. He test fit a 420 x 60mm in the top but it was too close to motherboard so he ended up using a 360 x 45mm. I think it was because of thickness of radiators he had on hand and not width.
http://themodzoo.com/forum/index.php?/page/articles.html/_/reviews/cases/phanteks-enthoo-primo-full-tower-review-r67?pg=6

Does it make much difference in cooling to run 420 vs 480? Surface area is 588sq cm vs 576sq cm.. only 2% different.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Does it make much difference in cooling to run 420 vs 480? Surface area is 588sq cm vs 576sq cm.. only 2% different.


One difference is going to be the fans. There is a plethora of 120mm fans geared towards rad use with high static and low noise, while 140mm are few and far between. The included fans with the Enthoo happen to be good in this aspect, but they won't match up to a GT. I used a 280 with 4 of the Phanteks fans and am very happy with the results.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> The included fans with the Enthoo happen to be good in this aspect, but they won't match up to a GT. I used a 280 with 4 of the Phanteks fans and am very happy with the results.


Which fans are you using on your 280? I'm guessing the PH-F140SP_BK? It's 82cfm

The included Enthoo Primo 140mm fans are 3x PH-F140SP_BK & 2x PH-F140SP_BK_BLED in front. Phanteks has the new PWM PH-F140XP_BK with 140mm mounting holes and the PH-F140HP with 120 fan mounting holes in black, white, blue & red that comes on coolers now.. and their original PH-F140TS 140mm cooler fan in black, white, red, orange & blue.

I think there are plenty of 140mm fans that are good for cooler/radiator use, meaning whichever of 420 or 480 will fit is the best choice.

It would take a little more work to find what 140mm fans are good.. and many have 120mm mounts so would need a 120 to 140mm mounting plate/shroud adapter to use on 140mm coolers. Pretty easy to make. Sheet cut to size of radiator with 140mm holes for fans with 120mm holes for mounting fan and 140mm holes for mounting to radiator:
Off he top of my head:
Scythe has Kaze Maru up to 104.5cfm, Slip Stream KazeMaru2 up to 92.4cfm
Thermalright TY-140, 141, 143, 145, 147 fans. The TY-143 is 2500rpm 130cfm.
Silverstone FHp-141 38mm thick 1200rpm 170cfm

140mm mount
Scythe Slip Stream 140XT PWM is 70cfm
Phanteks PH-F140XP PWM is 85cfm
There are Corsair, Noctua, Delta, etc.


----------



## chrisnyc75

Does anybody know if the EP is going to be available at the usual suspect e-tailers (i.e. newegg, amazon, etc)? Shipping from Phanteks online store is expensive, so I'm reluctant to place a pre-order; but I'm also reluctant to wait until late October only to find out that orders are backed up and the case isn't being sold through newegg/amazon/etc. I've already waited SO LONG to start my build, I can't possibly push it back even farther. lol


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Which fans are you using on your 280? I'm guessing the PH-F140SP_BK? It's 82cfm
> 
> The included Enthoo Primo 140mm fans are 3x PH-F140SP_BK & 2x PH-F140SP_BK_BLED in front. Phanteks has the new PWM PH-F140XP_BK with 140mm mounting holes and the PH-F140HP with 120 fan mounting holes in black, white, blue & red that comes on coolers now.. and their original PH-F140TS 140mm cooler fan in black, white, red, orange & blue.
> 
> I think there are plenty of 140mm fans that are good for cooler/radiator use, meaning whichever of 420 or 480 will fit is the best choice.
> 
> It would take a little more work to find what 140mm fans are good.. and many have 120mm mounts so would need a 120 to 140mm mounting plate/shroud adapter to use on 140mm coolers. Pretty easy to make. Sheet cut to size of radiator with 140mm holes for fans with 120mm holes for mounting fan and 140mm holes for mounting to radiator:
> Off he top of my head:
> Scythe has Kaze Maru up to 104.5cfm, Slip Stream KazeMaru2 up to 92.4cfm
> Thermalright TY-140, 141, 143, 145, 147 fans. The TY-143 is 2500rpm 130cfm.
> Silverstone FHp-141 38mm thick 1200rpm 170cfm
> 
> 140mm mount
> Scythe Slip Stream 140XT PWM is 70cfm
> Phanteks PH-F140XP PWM is 85cfm
> There are Corsair, Noctua, Delta, etc.


CFMs don't mean squat for rads. Look into all of those fans a little harder and you will find that they all (and all other 140mm fans out to date) SUCK at developing high static pressure at lower RPMs / low dBs. And while static pressure won't tell you everything, it is a better indicator than CFM as to how well a fan will handle trying to blow through a restriction such as a radiator. Simply put: There never has, as of yet, been a halfway decent relatively silent 140mm fan for thick rads when compared to the 120mm choices. It's never even been close. That sad fact has been brought up here at OCN and every other site like it a gazillion times now.

The thing is you cannot take the manufacturer's word for it. You have to read the review testing done by folks like martinsliquidlab, just to name one.

I have been waiting to see how the new Phanteks PH-F140SP fans hold up in this regard, as they appear to have been made with this in mind, but no one's going to be sure until reputable comparison testing has been done, and I suspect that's likely to be 6 months from now at best.

---

Of course, if you're going to do a push-pull you can get by with some pretty decent results with many different makes of 140mm fans at slower/quieter speeds as the fans will work together to help overcome the restriction, or if you don't care all that much about fan noise then the same holds true if you want to crank your fans up. Plus, if you're already going overboard with more raddage than needed, which the Enthoo Primo should provide plenty of opportunity to do, then there's little doubt that you'll be fine cooling-wise with many different 140mm fan/rad combinations, but performance & silent operation-wise, you'll not even really be in the ballpark of what you could have done using most any of the many high static pressure 120mm fans out there.

I guess I could/should add that I threw most of that out the window myself in the end when I went with my fan choice of GeLid UV Blue Wing 120s, as I was for the most part choosing to go with the black & uv blue color-scheme above all else, and then after that selecting the best fans I could find that fit it. If I was purely looking at silent performance on a radiator I'd have went with Gentle Typhoons but I really didn't like the grey color (and I even considered buying GTs and painting/dying the blades). As it is the fans I chose look to be a really good match for the UV Blue acrylic tubing I'll be using, and their performance is better than average as best I can tell. Some reviews rate the GeLid Wing 120s right up there with the best of them, but others more middle-of-the-road. Price-wise they sure weren't 'middle-of-the-road' though, although I did find a comparatively good deal on them so snagged them up while I could.

We all make our product choices based on many other things than performance. Things like looks, cost, expected reliability, brand loyalty, etc all come into play. That's a good thing, or else all of our rigs would be identical.

Late edit:
Round 2 of goodies for my Enthoo Primo build just arrived.











XSPC Razor waterblocks and backplates for my GTX 760s (shame the blocks have to say GTX 670 on them though), A 140mm GeLid for the rear of the case, Primochill UV Blue rigid acrylic tubing, and a 16" UV light stick.

Almost missed the delivery because frozencpu required a signature. I was getting out the shower when the UPS guy came knocking and just happened to look out the window in time to see him driving away. Had to hurry up and get dressed & drive all around for 15 minutes like a madman until I spotted that big brown truck. Good thing too because I have to work the next couple days and wouldn't have been able to get my delivery any other way.

It'll be next week sometime before my next item gets here. I just ordered yesterday another Corsair AX1200 (the _only_ PSU I even consider buying any more







), then I'll probably take a bit of a break while I finish deciding on mobo/cpu. Might wait on the Rampage IV Black edition & get a 4930k for it, or I might go with an MPower Max & 4770k, or I actually REALLY like the new ASUS X79 Deluxe, all except for those gawdawful gold heatsinks. Damn shame. I might just go ahead and get it anyway and take them off and spray paint them or strip the gold off of them and have them anodized black if I can find a place to do it. Maybe I'll get lucky and someone will make waterblocks for it.

I dunno. Just spitballin at this point. Decisions... Decisions... The longer this Enthoo Primo takes to get here the more I can't make my mind up about much of anything. lol


----------



## jassilamba

*@Unicr0nhunter*, I have updated the review, and will update the radiator chart to include that a 420 will only fit the bottom if you are willing to mod. I apologize that I goofed up on that, and I'm glad that you guys brought it up. No excuses for the mistake, just oversight, and will make sure this does not happen again.

FAQ update -

Can I install a 420mm radiator in the bottom of the case?
- Depends on how comfortable you are with modding. In order to fit a 420mm radiator in the bottom you would have to modify the panel that conceals the HDD cages, and the drive bays. You would also have to use 120mm fans with 140mm to 120mm adapters. If you do not want to use adapters, you will have to drill holes in the bottom for 140mm fan mounting.

Other thing that I would like to add is that you can change the orientation of the SSD drive mounts. Instead of having your SSD mounted horizontally, I have mine mounted vertically as that allows for better cable management and routing. Will upload a pic of that as well. Drawback to that is you will only be able to to use one cage (as it takes more space). The mounting points are square so you can mount the SSD bracket either horizontally or vertically.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jassilamba*
> 
> *@Unicr0nhunter*, I have updated the review, and will update the radiator chart to include that a 420 will only fit the bottom if you are willing to mod. I apologize that I goofed up on that, and I'm glad that you guys brought it up. No excuses for the mistake, just oversight, and will make sure this does not happen again.
> 
> FAQ update -
> 
> Can I install a 420mm radiator in the bottom of the case?
> - Depends on how comfortable you are with modding. In order to fit a 420mm radiator in the bottom you would have to modify the panel that conceals the HDD cages, and the drive bays. You would also have to use 120mm fans with 140mm to 120mm adapters. If you do not want to use adapters, you will have to drill holes in the bottom for 140mm fan mounting.


Appreciate that. It's came up a few times now and each time I've tried to point out all the reasons why I could tell a 420 wasn't going to fit past that panel, but it's sometimes hard to convince anyone anything when they can read somewhere else someone saying it will fit. No big deal. Everyone makes mistakes.
Quote:


> Other thing that I would like to add is that you can change the orientation of the SSD drive mounts. Instead of having your SSD mounted horizontally, I have mine mounted vertically as that allows for better cable management and routing. Will upload a pic of that as well. Drawback to that is you will only be able to to use one cage (as it takes more space). The mounting points are square so you can mount the SSD bracket either horizontally or vertically.


Since there are 3 mounting locations, does that mean both brackets can still be used, just not both of them in the 2 locations above/below one another nearest the front of the case?


----------



## jassilamba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Appreciate that. It's came up a few times now and each time I've tried to point out all the reasons why I could tell a 420 wasn't going to fit past that panel, but it's sometimes hard to convince anyone anything when they can read somewhere else someone saying it will fit. No big deal. Everyone makes mistakes.
> Since there are 3 mounting locations, does that mean both brackets can still be used, just not both of them in the 2 locations above/below one another nearest the front of the case?


You sir are correct. Here is a really really bad cell phone pic.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> CFMs don't mean squat for rads. Look into all of those fans a little harder and you will find that they all (and all other 140mm fans out to date) SUCK at developing high static pressure at lower RPMs / low dBs. And while static pressure won't tell you everything, it is a better indicator than CFM as to how well a fan will handle trying to blow through a restriction such as a radiator. Simply put: There never has, as of yet, been a halfway decent relatively silent 140mm fan for thick rads when compared to the 120mm choices. It's never even been close. That sad fact has been brought up here at OCN and every other site like it a gazillion times now.


So why are you bringing it up here again?

I asked what Phanteks fans you are using on your radiator..

You never answered the question.

The fans I listed perform similar to the best Phanteks fans on the market.. most perform better. . . So what's with the skitso reply acting like I'm a complete idiot?









CFM and mm H2O do mean something if we have more than just peak ratings to go on.. just as Martin.

Next time you might check out the user you are yelling at before go throwing a tantrum.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



http://www.overclock.net/t/1419496/static-pressure-fans-better-at-airflow-with-dust-filter/60_20#post_20780586
http://www.overclock.net/t/1419496/static-pressure-fans-better-at-airflow-with-dust-filter/60_20#post_20782369
http://www.overclock.net/t/1016941/the-official-noctua-club/1200_20#post_20668094


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> I asked what Phanteks fans you are using on your radiator..
> 
> You never answered the question.
> 
> The fans I listed perform similar to the best Phanteks fans on the market.. most perform better. . . So what's with the skitso reply acting like I'm a complete idiot?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> CFM and mm H2O do mean something if we have more than just peak ratings to go on.. just as Martin.
> 
> Next time you might check out the user you are yelling at before go throwing a tantrum.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1419496/static-pressure-fans-better-at-airflow-with-dust-filter/60_20#post_20780586
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1419496/static-pressure-fans-better-at-airflow-with-dust-filter/60_20#post_20782369
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1016941/the-official-noctua-club/1200_20#post_20668094


It was me, not Unicr0n, that is using the Phanteks fans. And yes, I am using the SP.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

@ doyll,

I didn't give a 'skitzo reply' or have a tantrum (unlike it seems you just did) or say anything inferring anything about you, certainly not that you're a 'complete idiot'.

You wrote "I think there are plenty of 140mm fans that are good for cooler/radiator use" and went on to list several fans and their CFM ratings, which seemed to me that you were suggesting CFMs were the most important thing to consider when choosing a fan for a rad.

We must just terribly disagree on the use of "good for" then, because everywhere I've looked, and your links tell no different, none of the 140mm fans available perform anywhere near as well at the same dB as their 120mm counterparts. And while many 140mm fans produce high CFMs, not many do well with static pressure, and especially so at lower speeds / lower dB. All that just tells me that there are no 140mm fans that are especially "good for cooler/radiator use". That's all I was saying.

Edit: I should add that if in fact I'm wrong and there actually are 140mm fans that produce relatively high static pressure at lower rpms / lower dB, and especially that perform on a radiator anywhere near to what a Gentle Typhoon AP14 or AP15 does, which seems to me should be a reasonable threshold since the GT is a smaller 120mm fan, then I'm just unaware of it - despite reading a many a topic searching for such for quite a while now - and in that case I am fully prepared to stand corrected. I would be very happy to learn of such a 140mm fan and would freely admit that on this topic it was I that was the "complete idiot".


----------



## Sunreeper

A lot of manufactures also flat out lie when giving fan specs just a little warning I want to add always check reviews for a fan and don't go off what's printed on their box


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> I believe Jesse's writing that a 420 will fit on the bottom is simply an error. I am certain a 420 will not fit on the bottom without serious modification to the case. ]


I remember the video and the part where they had it angled..... couldn't recall if it was hitting the panel or the structures behind it. When i saw Jesse's post, I thought the latter might be the case since he had it in front of him.....going back and looking at the video tho (20:00 minute mark) for the split second ya get to see it at the top though it sure looks like it's hitting the panel. No sense fretting till it gets here.....when it's in front of me, I'll see if it can be modded.

Seems like on odd design choice tho..... using 140mm fans and missing fitting a 140mm rad by a few mm.....maybe in Enthoo II


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> It was me, not Unicr0n, that is using the Phanteks fans. And yes, I am using the SP.


Thanks.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> @ doyll,
> 
> I didn't give a 'skitzo reply' or have a tantrum (unlike it seems you just did) or say anything inferring anything about you, certainly not that you're a 'complete idiot'.
> 
> You wrote "I think there are plenty of 140mm fans that are good for cooler/radiator use" and went on to list several fans and their CFM ratings, which seemed to me that you were suggesting CFMs were the most important thing to consider when choosing a fan for a rad.


I apologize for mistaking you for ciarlatano using Phanteks fans on 280 radiator.

You chastised me for saying some 140mm fans are good. You say they are not as good as 120mm yet the industry trend is toward more 140mm fans, including their use on coolers and radiators.

I will follow the industry and you can follow your own path.


----------



## rpjkw11

Thanks for the fan-size discussion. I've always been fond of 200mm case fans and that's what I have now. When I noticed the EP used 140mm fans, I knew I had some learning to do. I've had little experience with 120mm fans, preferring the "bigger-is-better" for low noise. I've often wondered how 120mm compare with 140mm in terms of air flow AND low noise. I always read what Doyll has to say because he has vastly more experience than do I. Unicr0nhunter makes some interesting points, too. So, what I'm planning on doing when everything arrives and is up and running is to experiment with both 120mm and 140mm foe case fans and see which size I really like, at least for my purposes (my only games are Flight Simulator 9 and 10 as I'm an over-the-hill pilot). I will, of course, make use of CPUZ and others, but my main goal will be to simply have fun and, hopefully, learn something new along the way. I'll share, for what it may be worth, what I discover and I plan to make many trips to the well-of-wisdom I've found on this great site.

Good day all.


----------



## jassilamba

120mm vs 140mm I personally think does not matter. For a typical user running a CPU and 2 GPUs with 2 big radiators your temps will not matter that much irrespective of the fans. I always suggest people to *use the components that THEY like*, and not what looks good on the paper or what others think looks good. With that said, fans do matter if say you are running a setup where you are pushing your radiator capacity to the max. I personally can live with a 2 degree difference between fan and radiator performance.

Simple principal that I follow -
Lower FPI - low speed fans.
Higher FPI - high speed fans.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

I like quiet as much if not more than I like cool .... the problem for us I think is that all the WC FAQs are 2010'ish and there's not much data to go by .....

Martins analysis of push versus pull was very useful .....

http://martinsliquidlab.i4memory.com/Radiator-Fan-Orientation-And-Shroud-Testing-Review.html

From that, with phanteks fans at 1200 rpm, pull seems to the choice here..... but also, would love to see the same test bed with 30mm, 45,mm, 60mm, 80mm, 120mm rads .... would even like to see fan / 60 mm rad / fan / 60 mm rad / fan compared with a 120 mm


----------



## Sunreeper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> It was me, not Unicr0n, that is using the Phanteks fans. And yes, I am using the SP.
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> @ doyll,
> 
> I didn't give a 'skitzo reply' or have a tantrum (unlike it seems you just did) or say anything inferring anything about you, certainly not that you're a 'complete idiot'.
> 
> You wrote "I think there are plenty of 140mm fans that are good for cooler/radiator use" and went on to list several fans and their CFM ratings, which seemed to me that you were suggesting CFMs were the most important thing to consider when choosing a fan for a rad.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I apologize for mistaking you for ciarlatano using Phanteks fans on 280 radiator.
> 
> You chastised me for saying some 140mm fans are good. You say they are not as good as 120mm yet the industry trend is toward more 140mm fans, including their use on coolers and radiators.
> 
> I will follow the industry and you can follow your own path.
Click to expand...

There's still not many good 140mm radiator fans especially when compared to the offering you get in the 120mm fan size


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sunreeper*
> 
> There's still not many good 140mm radiator fans especially when compared to the offering you get in the 120mm fan size


As the demand for them for 140mm wide radiators increases so will the availability of good fans.

Not that many years ago 80mm were the norm and it was hard to get good 120mm fans.


----------



## Sunreeper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Sunreeper*
> 
> There's still not many good 140mm radiator fans especially when compared to the offering you get in the 120mm fan size
> 
> 
> 
> As the demand for them for 140mm wide radiators increases so will the availability of good fans.
> 
> Not that many years ago 80mm were the norm and it was hard to get good 120mm fans.
Click to expand...

That's going to take quite some time. Most people still use 120mm sized radiators so I don't see where this demand thing is coming from. The only reason I think manufactures actually have an accentive to create good 140mm fans is the 140mm clcs and there's not even too many of those.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sunreeper*
> 
> ]
> That's going to take quite some time. Most people still use 120mm sized radiators so I don't see where this demand thing is coming from. The only reason I think manufactures actually have an accentive to create good 140mm fans is the 140mm clcs and there's not even too many of those.


I'm not a water guy. I was 12 or so years ago before anything was commercially available. We had to CNC mill our own waterblocks, used aquarium and pond pumps, car heater or compact car radiators, etc. I've been considering getting back into water with this new case and been shopping around and seeing 140mm wide radiators many places. Lots more now than a year ago.







Who know what will happen in another year or two.


----------



## skupples

We are going to need more decently priced wide girth cases for 140mm rads to become more common place, me thinks.


----------



## doyll

Indeed.

Like Enthoo Primo. Wouldn't need to be much wider to fit 420 in bottom.








Added width would give more room for resevoir on back along side of GPU.
Slightly longer for longer GPU and reservoir to fit on reservoir bracket in front.
Another second fan control hub.
Make the base taller so there is more vent area for airflow to bottom radiator.
Mod the front door bottom vent for more vent area in front.


----------



## ModernAfro

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Indeed.
> 
> Like Enthoo Primo. Wouldn't need to be much wider to fit 420 in bottom.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Added width would give more room for resevoir on back along side of GPU.
> Slightly longer for longer GPU and reservoir to fit on reservoir bracket in front.
> Another second fan control hub.
> Make the base taller so there is more vent area for airflow to bottom radiator.
> Mod the front door bottom vent for more vent area in front.


But now you're at the exact dimension of a 900D! Yes i kiss my mother with that mouth!


----------



## doyll

LOL

Please read forum rules about unacceptable language... That 4 space word ending in d to be specific.
















Enthoo Primo looks so much better!


----------



## Terminus14

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Enthoo Primo looks so much better!


Except for that ugly ass front vent cover. Oh how I loathe that spot. I'll wait till I actually have the case to make solid judgements but I definitely see myself changing that up a bit.


----------



## doyll

The front vent is on my list of mods. And hopefully a vent in the front door to match.

MNPCTECH grille fits. Jesse put one in his.. Can't see it now cus he broke the image link.








http://themodzoo.com/forum/index.php?/topic/865-the-primo-first-wc-enthoo-primo-build/

I think Jesse used the first one of these.


----------



## ModernAfro

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> The front vent is on my list of mods. And hopefully a vent in the front door to match.
> 
> MNPCTECH grille fits. Jesse put one in his.. Can't see it now cus he broke the image link.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://themodzoo.com/forum/index.php?/topic/865-the-primo-first-wc-enthoo-primo-build/
> 
> I think Jesse used the first one of these.


Im waiting for the arc reactor grill. it would look so sexy in black


----------



## jassilamba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> The front vent is on my list of mods. And hopefully a vent in the front door to match.
> 
> MNPCTECH grille fits. Jesse put one in his.. Can't see it now cus he broke the image link.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://themodzoo.com/forum/index.php?/topic/865-the-primo-first-wc-enthoo-primo-build/
> 
> I think Jesse used the first one of these.


Pics fixed in the guide.


----------



## doyll

Biohazard and Sniper look good too.


----------



## chrisnyc75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ModernAfro*
> 
> Im waiting for the arc reactor grill. it would look so sexy in black


Oh dear, I gotta stop reading this thread before I go bankrupt. lol

I kinda like it in silver, it would stand out nicely even with no LEDs to light it from behind. The front fans are 140mm though, aren't they? Looks like the Arc Reactor grill is only available in 120mm. Would take some extra mod'ing.


----------



## jassilamba

I'm gonna be seeing Bill in the next few days, I will take the front panel with me and will try to take some pics with couple different grills mounted to the front.


----------



## doyll

Thanks Jesse.
That will be great!


----------



## Sunreeper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Sunreeper*
> 
> ]
> That's going to take quite some time. Most people still use 120mm sized radiators so I don't see where this demand thing is coming from. The only reason I think manufactures actually have an accentive to create good 140mm fans is the 140mm clcs and there's not even too many of those.
> 
> 
> 
> I'm not a water guy. I was 12 or so years ago before anything was commercially available. We had to CNC mill our own waterblocks, used aquarium and pond pumps, car heater or compact car radiators, etc. I've been considering getting back into water with this new case and been shopping around and seeing 140mm wide radiators many places. Lots more now than a year ago.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Who know what will happen in another year or two.
Click to expand...

Almost all manufacturers have 140mm sized radiators but that still doesn't mean that there are good fans or that they are bought that much


----------



## ModernAfro

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chrisnyc75*
> 
> Oh dear, I gotta stop reading this thread before I go bankrupt. lol
> 
> I kinda like it in silver, it would stand out nicely even with no LEDs to light it from behind. The front fans are 140mm though, aren't they? Looks like the Arc Reactor grill is only available in 120mm. Would take some extra mod'ing.


I think youre right. my bad! either way, arc reactor fan grill would look nice lol


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

The fans are 140mm, but the grill mod that mnpctech did was using a 240mm (2x120) grill and they write: "I got the MNPCTECH slotted 240mm grill in and what do you know its a perfect fit. The color and size are a perfect match."

Amnywho, maybe it's just me, but I REALLY like the look of the Enthoo Primo as it is. That front covered filter/fan with blue led fans behind it is one of my favorite things about the case, especially with the blue led light strip running up the side & top. I can't wait to see it for real.


----------



## jassilamba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> The fans are 140mm, but the grill mod that mnpctech did was using a 240mm (2x120) grill and they write: "I got the MNPCTECH slotted 240mm grill in and what do you know its a perfect fit. The color and size are a perfect match."
> 
> Amnywho, maybe it's just me, but I REALLY like the look of the Enthoo Primo as it is. That front covered filter/fan with blue led fans behind it is one of my favorite things about the case, especially with the blue led light strip running up the side & top. I can't wait to see it for real.


Beauty is in the eye of the beholder, and I did that mod cos I wanted to improve the airflow (dont think it was needed in my case). The original front cover is mounted to the grill, and so is my slotted grill. Its mounted to the mesh behind the cover. What I mean by a "perfect fit" was that the opening in the enthoo front panel is a perfect size for a 240mm grill.

I'm pretty sure ppl will come with even better mods and changes to this case.


----------



## Roxycon

All you 140 mm form factor guys, cant you use 140 mm to 120mm adapters if you domt find any good fans?

Edit: deleted my rambling









Jessi, could you meassure how big of a gap there is from the drainport on your monsta rad to the front fan mount? Is there enough space from the endtank for a 90 degree fitting?


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roxycon*
> 
> All you 140 mm form factor guys, cant you use 140 mm to 120mm adapters if you domt find any good fans?
> 
> On friday i was over at a friends house helping him out with his newly bought rig, he spent a little over 5k $ on it, and he had both a 420 and a 280 rad..
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> On the 280 he had 4 gt ap15 and on the 420, 3 of the included 140 mm fans on the switch 810.. And to me personally i would have gone with the nzxt fans over the gentle typhoon ones, looks so much better, dont make that whining noise on high rpm's (he paired the gt's with a nzxt sentry lxe fan controller) and feels like it generally pushes more air even at a pull only config in the roof..
> 
> Oh and on a side note since im already talking about friday; have any of you had a bad experience with the ek fc bridge connection system? First time i used it , i got a leak due to the lowest connection wasnt thightend enough (had almost stripped the screwhead by that point) and this time we got a bigbig leak in the middle piece between the block and the bridge due to the o ring being too big and got out of the track.. When we saw what was causing the problem we tryed to get the bridge off the block but then again the screwheads was stripped (ended up bad, he had to order new blocks and obviously a different sli link system this time) his first wc experience costed him an extra 500 $ and a good time without programming and gaming
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Gonna make a thread/send ek a mail about this by the time we get around to fix it with the new parts.. Wished ek provided the link systems with some higher quality screws
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Gonna take a picture of him cutting the acrylic bridge with probably a saw ment for trees, lol


Please keep your posts here directly related to Enthoo Primo.
Only part even remotely related is first sentence.. and even is kinda crazy. Case is comes with 140mm fans.. I doubt any of us getting Enthoo Primo will be replacing them with 120mm fans.








The rest is nothing but rambling on about something else entirely unrelated.


----------



## Roxycon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Please keep your posts here directly related to Enthoo Primo.
> Only part even remotely related is first sentence.. and even is kinda crazy. Case is comes with 140mm fans.. I doubt any of us getting Enthoo Primo will be replacing them with 120mm fans.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The rest is nothing but rambling on about something else entirely unrelated.


Sorry, but thought mostly of us are watercoolers..

Im going to replace at least two of the 140's tho, gonna atleast try to keep all the rads inside my enthoo


----------



## skupples

I have used three or four different EK links by now. I only ever had one leak, and that was on my first water build ever. So, i'm going to chalk that up to user error.

This is how i recommend to install them... Put cards in first, then put the link block on.

Not sure how you strip hex heads. I have only used FC-Titan, and FC-CSQ.


----------



## Roxycon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> I have used three or four different EK links by now. I only ever had one leak, and that was on my first water build ever. So, i'm going to chalk that up to user error.
> 
> This is how i recommend to install them... Put cards in first, then put the link block on.
> 
> Not sure how you strip hex heads. I have only used FC-Titan, and FC-CSQ.


Hopefully second time and up is a charm







im done with fixed bridges anyways, gonna install both my gpus and cpu in a parallell in the enthoo so cant use the ek bridges


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roxycon*
> 
> Sorry, but thought mostly of us are watercoolers..
> 
> Im going to replace at least two of the 140's tho, gonna atleast try to keep all the rads inside my enthoo


Using a shroud / adapter / 25mm spacer between fan and radiator / cooler / grill and fan is good. It will definitely cut down on noise.

Shouldn't be a problem using 120mm fans. Enthoo Primo has good 120/140mm versatility..


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Another review

http://www.tweaktown.com/reviews/5726/phanteks-enthoo-primo-ultimate-chassis-review/index9.html


----------



## skupples

EK bridges come in both serial, and parallel... I have the three way bridge waiting for me, but i'm thinking about not using it. Just because they look so easy mode.


----------



## Roxycon

By cpu and gpu parallel i meant getting two of these for my 670s two sli connectors (dont know wich yet) and conect them parallelally to my cpu block, if things i plan out does fit, ill only have 4 pieces of tubing and the two sli fittings visible from the big windo.. FOllowing the stealth desig of the enthoo









Sorry for typos but my ipaf got really slow after the ios7 update


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> Another review
> 
> http://www.tweaktown.com/reviews/5726/phanteks-enthoo-primo-ultimate-chassis-review/index9.html


Thanks Jack.








But a little slow there.
Speedy fingers aka Roxycon posted it 3 weeks ago.









I wonder why they ran the GPU power through PSU cover instead of grommet just in front of GPU?









Would be nice to know what system they built and how it performed.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Thanks Jack.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But a little slow there.
> Speedy fingers aka Roxycon posted it 3 weeks ago.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I wonder why they ran the GPU power through PSU cover instead of grommet just in front of GPU?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Would be nice to know what system they built and how it performed.


Kind of a review that isn't a review....


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Kind of a review that isn't a review....


LOL









Kind of a preview being called a review.

in my opinion MonsterMawd video by Bill and Jesse on YouTube and Jesse's written and build review on TheModZoo are the best. No fluff or foo-phoo. They go right for the heart of the case and show what will and won't work in detail.


----------



## jassilamba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roxycon*
> 
> All you 140 mm form factor guys, cant you use 140 mm to 120mm adapters if you domt find any good fans?
> 
> Edit: deleted my rambling
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Jessi, could you meassure how big of a gap there is from the drainport on your monsta rad to the front fan mount? Is there enough space from the endtank for a 90 degree fitting?


I will check that out once I get home. From memory I don't think you will have much room left.

I have my drain point on the top rad, once I drain that, I flip my case on its side and darin from the tube reservoir fill port on the top.

Also Newegg is now taking pre-orders - http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811854001

*@doyll* Thanks for the kind words mate, and as you have seen over at the zoo, we are a little different compared to your typical online community. But given the excitement regarding the case I didn't think that I needed an opening paragraph talking about phanteks and what this case is (typical reviews that I normally do).


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jassilamba*
> 
> Also Newegg is now taking pre-orders - http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811854001
> 
> *@doyll* Thanks for the kind words mate, and as you have seen over at the zoo, we are a little different compared to your typical online community. But given the excitement regarding the case I didn't think that I needed an opening paragraph talking about phanteks and what this case is (typical reviews that I normally do).


Yeah, I saw the Neweg bit about "Release Date: 10/14/2013" and had to laugh. If they receive and ship before Phanteks USA ships their pre-orders there will be some very unhappy Phanteks customers.









The zoo is more into modification and custom building. Very relaxed, friendly and helpful. Everybody there is more than willing to tell anyone needing help their "secret ways" and "tricks" they had to learn the hard way.


----------



## Roxycon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jassilamba*
> 
> I will check that out once I get home. From memory I don't think you will have much room left.
> 
> I have my drain point on the top rad, once I drain that, I flip my case on its side and darin from the tube reservoir fill port on the top.
> 
> Also Newegg is now taking pre-orders - http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811854001
> 
> *@doyll* Thanks for the kind words mate, and as you have seen over at the zoo, we are a little different compared to your typical online community. But given the excitement regarding the case I didn't think that I needed an opening paragraph talking about phanteks and what this case is (typical reviews that I normally do).


Aw







is there enough space to let the input output be in the front then?


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jassilamba*
> 
> Also Newegg is now taking pre-orders - http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811854001
> .


Unfortunately, we can order the case but not the rest of the PH-F140SP's we need.


----------



## jassilamba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roxycon*
> 
> Aw
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> is there enough space to let the input output be in the front then?


With that you won't be able to use the HDD cage in the top position. And if you do use the cage you might have to come with a different way of routing the tube.

If are willing to let got of one fan in the front, then you might have enough space to mount a drain port.

I will get you confirmation and some pics of how things look in the front, once I get home.


----------



## Roxycon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jassilamba*
> 
> With that you won't be able to use the HDD cage in the top position. And if you do use the cage you might have to come with a different way of routing the tube.
> 
> If are willing to let got of one fan in the front, then you might have enough space to mount a drain port.
> 
> I will get you confirmation and some pics of how things look in the front, once I get home.


Thanks, thats all that i needed







appreciate it


----------



## Gabrielzm

Not only newegg but here we have a close estimate for shipping too...

http://www.overclockers.co.uk/showproduct.php?prodid=CA-000-PT

Anyway.. I already order it and paid for it so have to wait the seller stock it....


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> I wonder why they ran the GPU power through PSU cover instead of grommet just in front of GPU?


I dunno why they don't stick the power connectors on the short side of the card (opposite where all the DVI cables plug in) by HD cage


----------



## Buzzkill

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> I dunno why they don't stick the power connectors on the short side of the card (opposite where all the DVI cables plug in) by HD cage


Old ATI & Nvidia cards had the PCI-e power on the end of card. The length of new cards can make it difficult to fit in some cases.


----------



## doyll

The card they used plugs in on top.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jassilamba*
> 
> [...] Also Newegg is now taking pre-orders - http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811854001


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Yeah, I saw the Newegg bit about "Release Date: 10/14/2013" and had to laugh. If they receive and ship before Phanteks USA ships their pre-orders there will be some very unhappy Phanteks customers.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Not only newegg but here we have a close estimate for shipping too...
> 
> http://www.overclockers.co.uk/showproduct.php?prodid=CA-000-PT
> 
> Anyway.. I already order it and paid for it so have to wait the seller stock it....


Hmmmm, seeing as NewEgg says "Release Date: 10/14/2013" (not to mention the shipping is less than half what a Phanteks pre-order cost) and overclockers.uk says "ETA: 04/10/13", I'm wondering if perhaps those of us who pre-ordered from Phanteks might see our cases a little earlier than the Oct 18 date we were emailed?

I would hope so, or I hope that pre-orders from those 'etailers are delayed past what they are marketing.

Not to sound too crabby, as I'm still totally psyched to be getting this case, but I do seriously hope that I didn't shell out ~$300, which incl ~$30 more in shipping than NewEgg is asking, more than a month in advance only to see people who bought it from NewEgg posting their builds before I even get mine. That would just be an insult to injury imho, especially seeing as NewEgg isn't going to actually be charging people for their purchase until it has shipped.

Maybe those of us who did pre-order through Phanteks will be getting something extra. Not sure what that might be though. I've hinted before I'd like to have another fan hub, so something like that would be pretty cool, but I don't know it would suffice to make up for seeing people who waited to place their order elsewhere get their cases first, if that were to happen.

Seems to me that, unless our pre-ordered cases were getting sent out earlier than expected, Phanteks ought to be requiring that 'etailers like NewEgg correct their listed ETA dates so they don't have those of us that jumped on board early seeing something like that and gettin' our panties in a bunch.


----------



## doyll

I agree with you Unicr0nhunter.

I'm guessing North America will have cases before Europe... but I could be wrong. Wouldn't be first time and definitely won't be last.
Very different shipping routes from China to North America (15-18 days) than China to Europe (30-36 days)

Me thinks Overclockers.uk may be overly optimistic.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> I dunno why they don't stick the power connectors on the short side of the card (opposite where all the DVI cables plug in) by HD cage


They use to back in the day. AMD/ATI use to do that allot.


----------



## rpjkw11

I finally bit the bullet and preordered in the hope of getting the case before others could buy off the shelf. I don't know if it will work out that way, but at least I shouldn't have to worry about the cases being sold out when I try to buy. My wife says I'm worse than a little kid on December 10 with Christmas two weeks away. She's right, too.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rpjkw11*
> 
> My wife says I'm worse than a little kid on December 10 with Christmas two weeks away. She's right, too.










It's not even October 10th!


----------



## jassilamba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rpjkw11*
> 
> I finally bit the bullet and preordered in the hope of getting the case before others could buy off the shelf. I don't know if it will work out that way, but at least I shouldn't have to worry about the cases being sold out when I try to buy. My wife says I'm worse than a little kid on December 10 with Christmas two weeks away. She's right, too.


Arent we all.

I received my LED strips in the mail and I installed that in the front. Will do a video with the top one.

I apologize for an image that is crappier than crap.


----------



## Hereisphilly

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jassilamba*
> 
> Arent we all.
> 
> I received my LED strips in the mail and I installed that in the front. Will do a video with the top one.
> 
> I apologize for an image that is crappier than crap.


That white Led looks amazing! Much better than the blue! How easy do you recon it would be to change the led colour in the front fans to white aswel?


----------



## skupples

Buying white LED fans would probably be easier then pulling out the LED's in the stock fans.

The red LED fans I have from coolermaster(i think) are melted into the fan. Just a reference, possible it's the same for Phantek fans.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jassilamba*
> 
> Arent we all.
> 
> I received my LED strips in the mail and I installed that in the front. Will do a video with the top one.
> 
> I apologize for an image that is crappier than crap.


The white looks great, Jesse. I have some Silverstone LEDs on the way, I'm hoping they are narrow enough to get in there.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jassilamba*
> 
> Arent we all.
> 
> I received my LED strips in the mail and I installed that in the front. Will do a video with the top one.
> 
> I apologize for an image that is crappier than crap.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I like it!
Have always liked the black/white theme.


----------



## jassilamba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> The white looks great, Jesse. I have some Silverstone LEDs on the way, I'm hoping they are narrow enough to get in there.


These are the LEDs that I used, and these are narrower than the original strip used by Phanteks. - http://www.ebay.com/itm/370842386589?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649

As long as its less than 6mm wide, it should be fine.

The silly me already has the radiaor installed so for me it will not be easy to remove the lower FAN, but the LEDs are kind of melted/glued in. Not too difficult to change it if you wanted to, but it will just easier to get some white LED fans or a different color LED fan.


----------



## ModernAfro

how hard do ya'll think it would be to replace the "phanteks" logo in the small window to have an SSD mounted there? just some velcro?







my sammy SSD would look nice in the window


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ModernAfro*
> 
> how hard do ya'll think it would be to replace the "phanteks" logo in the small window to have an SSD mounted there? just some velcro?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> my sammy SSD would look nice in the window


Good question...I have seen pictures of the case with the logo looking like glued in place. But I also noticed other pictures with the logo like being hold in place by 4 screws....Not sure how Phanteks will actually ship the case in which version but looks like they were experimenting with it.


----------



## jassilamba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ModernAfro*
> 
> how hard do ya'll think it would be to replace the "phanteks" logo in the small window to have an SSD mounted there? just some velcro?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> my sammy SSD would look nice in the window


That logo is held in place by 4 screws with acorn nuts on em, You can easily remove it, and mount an SSD or anything else that you like there.


----------



## ModernAfro

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jassilamba*
> 
> That logo is held in place by 4 screws with acorn nuts on em, You can easily remove it, and mount an SSD or anything else that you like there.


whats the size difference between the SSD and Logo? about the same?


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

The moderator on the Phanteks forum assures those of us who pre-ordered through Phanteks that we will be getting our cases first ...



Soooo, now I'm hoping that NewEgg has their Oct 14 date correct, and if so we might be getting our cases a little earlier than Oct 18.


----------



## grifftech

Brand new here, and this is going to be my first build in 7 years and I am jumping in with my first water cooled build also. I have been searching high and low for a case and I have fallen in love with the Enthoo, but I have 1 thing that is really bugging me. The darn door over the bays!! I am going to get a Monsoon double bay reservoir and an Aquaero 6 and the last thing I want is them hidden behind a door. Plus the door opens to the left and that is the side with the widow I want facing me, so opening the door does no good. So does anyone have any ideas or plans on doing something with the door that might involve removing it etc?


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Buzzkill*
> 
> Old ATI & Nvidia cards had the PCI-e power on the end of card. The length of new cards can make it difficult to fit in some cases.


Yes, I cam see that .... but sockets are cheap.....why not offer a choice (provide both) for an extra $10.......90 degree sockets wouldn't add much length


----------



## skupples

That would require two different manufacturing processes for the PCB. It would also require them to spend the dev time creating two different PCB's... Running power to the back of the card could require a totally different layout on the PCB. These things are not cheep.


----------



## Roxycon

Cant really wire it up nicely with them out the back either







belive me, my former sli gtx560 ti's was a pain to do the cablemanagement done in.. Ended up rerouting every other month or so

90 degree 24 and 8 pin on mb is something i wanna see more often tho


----------



## ModernAfro

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *grifftech*
> 
> Brand new here, and this is going to be my first build in 7 years and I am jumping in with my first water cooled build also. I have been searching high and low for a case and I have fallen in love with the Enthoo, but I have 1 thing that is really bugging me. The darn door over the bays!! I am going to get a Monsoon double bay reservoir and an Aquaero 6 and the last thing I want is them hidden behind a door. Plus the door opens to the left and that is the side with the widow I want facing me, so opening the door does no good. So does anyone have any ideas or plans on doing something with the door that might involve removing it etc?


maybe remove the door, put some plexi glass to sit flush with the rest of the front and some dim lights/leds in the case?


----------



## doyll

I wonder if there's a way door could be flipped 180 so it opened the other way.


----------



## jassilamba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ModernAfro*
> 
> maybe remove the door, put some plexi glass to sit flush with the rest of the front and some dim lights/leds in the case?


I would just mod the door and have the fan controller or anything else mount flush with the panel closed.

On a different note, I know I owe couple answers like is the size of a SSD same as the badge on the side, and exact space in the front of the case. I will have those answers tonight, but last night I was busy taking apart the power button so that I can change the LED color on it from blue to white (can be done easily).


----------



## Roxycon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jassilamba*
> 
> I would just mod the door and have the fan controller or anything else mount flush with the panel closed.
> 
> On a different note, I know I owe couple answers like is the size of a SSD same as the badge on the side, and exact space in the front of the case. I will have those answers tonight, but last night I was busy taking apart the power button so that I can change the LED color on it from blue to white (can be done easily).


You were an hour faster then me, but yh the idea of cutting the door to accomodate, in this case, 3 5,25" bays and make new mounting holes on the inside.. Probably 5 mm or so forward would be the cleanest way


----------



## ModernAfro

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jassilamba*
> 
> I would just mod the door and have the fan controller or anything else mount flush with the panel closed.
> 
> On a different note, I know I owe couple answers like is the size of a SSD same as the badge on the side, and exact space in the front of the case. I will have those answers tonight, but last night I was busy taking apart the power button so that I can change the LED color on it from blue to white (can be done easily).


Hey @jassilamba did you ever find out if the dominator/vengeance RAM kits would work with a 480 rad in the top in a push/pull config? Thanks!


----------



## jassilamba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ModernAfro*
> 
> Hey @jassilamba did you ever find out if the dominator/vengeance RAM kits would work with a 480 rad in the top in a push/pull config? Thanks!


Thanks for reminding me, I had totally forgotten. Just to make sure I still remember, we are talking about a 60mm rad correct?


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ModernAfro*
> 
> Hey @jassilamba did you ever find out if the dominator/vengeance RAM kits would work with a 480 rad in the top in a push/pull config? Thanks!


Depends on how thick of a 480 rad you want to put up there and whether you want push fans or not.
A 45mm thick rad w/ 25mm push fan would be 70mm, and that's how much room there is from the top of the mobo to the top of the case, so that'll fit no problem with any mobo/ram combo. Same goes for a 60mm rad without push fans.

But, if you want 25mm thick push fans on a 60mm thick rad, you would be overhanging your board by ~15mm, in which case you would be depending on factors like how far from the top of the board the Ram is located, and on the amount of offset from the mobo the case has, and if your ram is positioned closer than 15mm from the top of your mobo then, looking at what Jessi has written, I don't think tall Ram like the dominator/vengeance will work.

From Jessi's FAQs at the end of his review at themodzoo:
Quote:


> What is the max clearance for a radiator installed in the top panel?
> 
> - The case has a clearance of 70mm for mounting a radiator in the roof. The mounts are offset by ~54mm so installing a 60mm (120mm series) radiator in push pull should not be an issue. As long as you do not have anything taller than 53mm on the motherboard (including ram), you can even install a 480mm monsta radiator in push pull. The X79 Dark, and G-Skill ram CAN be used with a monsta rad in push pull.
> 
> http://themodzoo.com/forum/index.php?/page/articles.html/_/reviews/cases/phanteks-enthoo-primo-full-tower-review-r67?pg=8


FYI:
Corsair Vengeance is listed as 52.5mm tall.
Corsair Dominator are 54mm.
http://www.corsair.com/us/support/faq/

Also, I believe the board's slots for memory will typically add ~5mm or so to the height of the ram from the mobo.

To sum it all up.
A 60mm thick rad with 25mm thick push fans is going to be very close to whether it will fit or not with taller ram, and whether or not it will fit will probably vary depending on what mobo you have.


----------



## ModernAfro

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jassilamba*
> 
> Thanks for reminding me, I had totally forgotten. Just to make sure I still remember, we are talking about a 60mm rad correct?


Yea, I was looking at the 480monsta rads

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Depends on how thick of a 480 rad you want to put up there and whether you want push fans or not.
> A 45mm thick rad w/ 25mm push fan would be 70mm, and that's how much room there is from the top of the mobo to the top of the case, so that'll fit no problem with any mobo/ram combo. Same goes for a 60mm rad without push fans.
> 
> But, if you want 25mm thick push fans on a 60mm thick rad, you would be overhanging your board by ~15mm, in which case you would be depending on factors like how far from the top of the board the Ram is located, and on the amount of offset from the mobo the case has, and if your ram is positioned closer than 15mm from the top of your mobo then, looking at what Jessi has written, I don't think tall Ram like the dominator/vengeance will work.
> 
> From Jessi's FAQs at the end of his review at themodzoo:
> FYI:
> Corsair Vengeance is listed as 52.5mm tall.
> Corsair Dominator are 54mm.
> http://www.corsair.com/us/support/faq/
> 
> Also, I believe the board's slots for memory will typically add ~5mm or so to the height of the ram from the mobo.
> 
> To sum it all up.
> A 60mm thick rad with 25mm thick push fans is going to be very close to whether it will fit or not with taller ram, and whether or not it will fit will probably vary depending on what mobo you have.


Thanks for the breakdown and dimensions!


----------



## jassilamba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ModernAfro*
> 
> Yea, I was looking at the 480monsta rads
> Thanks for the breakdown and dimensions!


Monsta is not gonna work with that memory. Sorry about that.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

You might be able to have a 480 monsta up top with mid-profile ram like g-skill though.

An 80mm thick 480 monsta with push fans is going to hang 105mm from the top, blocking ~35mm of the top of the board.

So, as long as nothing on your board in the top ~35mm is taller than the ~50mm or so of offset, you should have room to squeeze it.

I'm really hoping someone sticks a monsta up there and posts their pics of their build so I can see what it looks like. I was pondering the thought myself but I chickened out and went ahead and just ordered an XT45 480 for the top just so I knew it would fit regardless of whatever mobo I eventually decide on.

Jesse,
Can you say for certain which 5.25" drive bays would be affected by which 480 rad/fan combinations up top?

Just by eyeballing it, it looks like a 45mm thick 480 rad w/ no fans clears the top 5.25" bay, but with 25mm push fans (45+25=70) it would impede that top slot. Is that right?

I'm unsure if a 60mm 480 rad by itself will clear that top bay or not, and equally unsure if having 25mm fans on it that it wouldn't also interfere with the 2nd bay from the top.

I've no guesses as to how a 480 monsta up top w/ or w/o fans would affect the 5.25" bays.


----------



## skupples

UT60 480's & Monsta 480's are pretty much sold out world wide until next month either way.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> UT60 480's & Monsta 480's are pretty much sold out world wide until next month either way.


Yeah, the usual places I looked were sold out, but I just ordered my XT45 480 & Monsta 360 from aquatuning.us.
Seems they have 480 UT60s and 480 monstas in stock also (for now).


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Yeah, the usual places I looked were sold out, but I just ordered my XT45 480 & Monsta 360 from aquatuning.us.
> Seems they have 480 UT60s and 480 monstas in stock also (for now).


Wish I would of known about that site before ordering these EK "UT60" 480's... Owellz! Doesn't really matter!


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> That would require two different manufacturing processes for the PCB. It would also require them to spend the dev time creating two different PCB's... Running power to the back of the card could require a totally different layout on the PCB. These things are not cheep.


Ya lost me .....PCB with two sets of power plugs is 1st PCB ...whatz the 2nd PCB for ? Two sets .... ya wanna plug in the front, ya use that set .... ya wanna plug in the side use that set.


----------



## jassilamba

Before I forget

Dimensions of the Enthoo badge - 45mm X 85mm, not the same dimensions as a SSD, but mounting a SSD in that location should not be an issue at all.


----------



## ModernAfro

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jassilamba*
> 
> Before I forget
> 
> Dimensions of the Enthoo badge - 45mm X 85mm, not the same dimensions as a SSD, but mounting a SSD in that location should not be an issue at all.


Awesome! Thanks! Also, wondering what unic0rnhunter was thinking, 480monsta in the roof with push/pull - how many 5.25 bays do I lose?


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ModernAfro*
> 
> Awesome! Thanks! Also, wondering what unic0rnhunter was thinking, 480monsta in the roof with push/pull - how many 5.25 bays do I lose?


Yeah, I also asked over at Jesse's place, themodzoo, about how various top-mounted 480 rads w/ & w/o push fans might affect the top 5.25" bays.

I think if I could just get the measurement from the top of the case to the top of that top 5.25" drive bay, I could pretty well figure out the rest for myself.


----------



## jassilamba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Yeah, I also asked over at Jessi's place, themodzoo, about how various top-mounted 480 rads w/ & w/o push fans might affect the top 5.25" bays.
> 
> I think if I could just get the measurement from the top of the case to the top of that top 5.25" drive bay, I could pretty well figure out the rest for myself.


That is a good FAQ question. I will add that in a few.

Edit: FAQ updated, and your question answered over at the zoo.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> Ya lost me .....PCB with two sets of power plugs is 1st PCB ...whatz the 2nd PCB for ? Two sets .... ya wanna plug in the front, ya use that set .... ya wanna plug in the side use that set.


Oh, i see... I thought you meant two different cards, one with rear, one with normal...

I'm no pcb engineer so i'm not sure how two sets of power plugs would work. I still see that requiring extra engineering & development time, which means it would cost more. It's not as simple as just welding on two more plugs.


----------



## grifftech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roxycon*
> 
> You were an hour faster then me, but yh the idea of cutting the door to accomodate, in this case, 3 5,25" bays and make new mounting holes on the inside.. Probably 5 mm or so forward would be the cleanest way


Brilliant idea guys!!!


----------



## ModernAfro

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *grifftech*
> 
> Brilliant idea guys!!!


Did you post that review on newegg already? Haha


----------



## grifftech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ModernAfro*
> 
> Did you post that review on newegg already? Haha


lil ole me??







hehehe


----------



## Roxycon

Video from 




A 60 mm thick rad with push pull will go over the top odd mounting place, and it looks like evereything under 60 mm will let you use all of them


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roxycon*
> 
> Video from
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A 60 mm thick rad with push pull will go over the top odd mounting place, and it looks like evereything under 60 mm will let you use all of them


Hmmm, I'm not so sure a 60mm rad will fit above the top bay.
Jesse posted this in the FAQs on his review of the case at themodzoo:
Quote:


> What is the space between the top of the case, and the top of the top 5.25" drive bay?
> 
> - The space from the top of the case to the top of the top 5.25" drive bay is 55mm or 2.16 inches. A single drive bay is 41.3mm tall, so 55+41 = 96mm. That is enough space to mount a 45mm or a 60mm rad in push pull and only loose the top drive bay.
> 
> Dont forget the fittings if you have them facing the front as they might take more space and.


THANK you for posting that vid review! I liked it. Well done.


----------



## Hereisphilly

Just rang OCUK as today is the 4th, and the ETA has disappeared from the website, but they have told me that they don't have a new ETA!! :-(
Scan have down for next week, but I'm not hopeful!


----------



## Roxycon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Hmmm, I'm not so sure a 60mm rad will fit above the top bay.
> Jesse posted this in the FAQs on his review of the case at themodzoo:
> THANK you for posting that vid review! I liked it. Well done.


Ah, nvm then







thought he didnt answer it

Np if you ment me


----------



## ModernAfro

well, im breaking down and getting a cheap case. my GPU's were heavy throttling yesterday and the actual case got HOT................. my. steel. case. got. HOT. guess ill just have to wait until its actually on the market to order one....


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Oh, i see... I thought you meant two different cards, one with rear, one with normal...
> 
> I'm no pcb engineer so i'm not sure how two sets of power plugs would work. I still see that requiring extra engineering & development time, which means it would cost more. It's not as simple as just welding on two more plugs.


If ya look and most of the new enthusiasts MoBos today ..... compared with just a few years ago .... we've gone from a 4 pin CPU plug to 4+4 to now 8+4 ..... same thing.


----------



## skupples

The "same thing" on a motherboard would be two different 24pin locations, along with a choice of powering 4+4 or 8+4 up top, or on the bottom. As far as I understand it, you can not pick & chose which power plugs you use on those motherboards, they are supplied with extra power plugs, for MOAR POWA, for EXTREME OC.

@least, thats how my Dark & MVF function.

(oops, wasn't supposed to tell anyone i had purchased dark yet)


----------



## doyll

I have wondered why 24pin socket header wasn't flat with motherboard instead of sticking up.. or the PSU plug wasn't a 90 degree plug. Sure would make for a cleaner look.. like SATA header often are or SATA cable ends.


----------



## Roxycon

Written review by Overclockers


----------



## jassilamba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> The "same thing" on a motherboard would be two different 24pin locations, along with a choice of powering 4+4 or 8+4 up top, or on the bottom. As far as I understand it, you can not pick & chose which power plugs you use on those motherboards, they are supplied with extra power plugs, for MOAR POWA, for EXTREME OC.
> 
> @least, thats how my Dark & MVF function.
> 
> (oops, wasn't supposed to tell anyone i had purchased dark yet)


So far I love the placement of power connectors on the Dark, and its simple design. I know EK originally said no water blocks for the Dark, but will see if that changes.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jassilamba*
> 
> So far I love the placement of power connectors on the Dark, and its simple design. I know WK originally said no water blocks for the Dark, but will see if that changes.


I sure as hell hope SOME ONE makes a block for it... If not I may have to go with one of those home made blocks some one is working on, in the EVGA forums.

(WK typo for EK? I assume yes due to key location)


----------



## doyll

ehume did a good job on the Overclockers review.










Well worth reading.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Newegg still showing the 14th .... but still can't find anything on the when we will be able to buy the extra 5 PH-F140SP's and 2nd Fan Control PCB.

And while the final configuration of the reservoir bracket seems to be of concern for single GFX card systems, from what I can see it's gotta go regardless in SLI configs. Since the HD Bay area is the next logical spot for pump / reservoir, would be nice if Phanteks offered an adapter to mount ya 3.5" HDs up in the 5.125" bays.


----------



## doyll

Newegg is at the very least mistaken with their release date.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> The moderator on the Phanteks forum assures those of us who pre-ordered through Phanteks that we will be getting our cases first ...
> 
> 
> Soooo, now I'm hoping that NewEgg has their Oct 14 date correct, and if so we might be getting our cases a little earlier than Oct 18.


Brian works for Phanteks.









The 18th is still the date Phanteks plans to be sending them out.


----------



## skupples

overclockers.com may be a small community, but they have some TOP NOTCH reviewers.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> Newegg still showing the 14th .... but still can't find anything on the when we will be able to buy the extra 5 PH-F140SP's and 2nd Fan Control PCB.


We have been able to pre-order the PH-F140SP fans from Phanteks, same as with the case.
http://www.phanteksusa.com/products/phanteks-ph-f140sp

I've asked Phanteks about the fan hub several times via their live chat and their forums and they've not had any answers about it, so I'm guessing not any time soon - or they just don't know.
Quote:


> And while the final configuration of the reservoir bracket seems to be of concern for single GFX card systems, from what I can see it's gotta go regardless in SLI configs. Since the HD Bay area is the next logical spot for pump / reservoir, would be nice if Phanteks offered an adapter to mount ya 3.5" HDs up in the 5.125" bays.


The res bracket works fine where it is for for all but a few very long "single GFX card systems". For example, in the Ronsanut video review he mounted a res there with a Titan. If you're going to mount two cards in sli in slots 1 & 3 on a mobo you can fit them too with that res bracket. You just can't mount a longer card in slot 4 or below. Or, if you have a shorter pcb card, like a reference GTX 670 or GTX 760, it's not a problem where you want to mount your cards with that res bracket.

If you want to mount a res with a longer card there's always the mounting location on the back of the case like in the 'Hi Tech Legion' review, and if not the "next logical spot for pump / reservoir" would be a bay/res imho instead of in the HDD bay, and there are already lots of aftermarket 5.25" to HDD bay adapters to choose from if you wanted to go that route.


----------



## Hereisphilly

In light of the fact that buying a second pwm hub might not be possible straight away, I was thinking of other solutions to hook up 13 fans, and all have them controlled via pwm from the motherboard.

Would buying an NZXT Grid do the job? If I've understood it right, all it does is take the voltage signal from the input, and spilt it between all of the fans connected, adding in extra power through the molex connection. (I think this is how it works because it can be used with fan controllers to add even more fans)

So I'd just connect it to the pwm hub, which takes the pwm mobo signal and converts it to a voltage adjustment, and then that would be split up with the grid. I don't care if all the fans run at the same speeds as I'll only be using the phanteks fans

Sound like I'm on the right track?

Edit: Balls, I don't think its going to work as all the grid does is split up the input channel, there isn't anywhere to add in more power. If I connected the grid using the molex, the fans would just run at full speed.

Anyone have any other options without resorting to a fan controller?


----------



## Roxycon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hereisphilly*
> 
> In light of the fact that buying a second pwm hub might not be possible straight away, I was thinking of other solutions to hook up 13 fans, and all have them controlled via pwm from the motherboard.
> 
> Would buying an NZXT Grid do the job? If I've understood it right, all it does is take the voltage signal from the input, and spilt it between all of the fans connected, adding in extra power through the molex connection. (I think this is how it works because it can be used with fan controllers to add even more fans)
> 
> So I'd just connect it to the pwm hub, which takes the pwm mobo signal and converts it to a voltage adjustment, and then that would be split up with the grid. I don't care if all the fans run at the same speeds as I'll only be using the phanteks fans
> 
> Sound like I'm on the right track?
> 
> Edit: Balls, I don't think its going to work as all the grid does is split up the input channel, there isn't anywhere to add in more power. If I connected the grid using the molex, the fans would just run at full speed.
> 
> Anyone have any other options without resorting to a fan controller?


the corsair link (the software is bad as f*, but is an option) the fan hub for aquaero 5 or even the unit itself without the screen (can be mounted anywhere) and last but not least your motherboard









those are they i know about tho, also a person on ocn manufacturing its own fan hub soon to go out for sale for the community


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hereisphilly*
> 
> In light of the fact that buying a second pwm hub might not be possible straight away, I was thinking of other solutions to hook up 13 fans, and all have them controlled via pwm from the motherboard.
> 
> Sound like I'm on the right track?
> 
> Edit: Balls, I don't think its going to work as all the grid does is split up the input channel, there isn't anywhere to add in more power. If I connected the grid using the molex, the fans would just run at full speed.
> 
> Anyone have any other options without resorting to a fan controller?


No, but you figured that out yourself.









For PWM fans a PWM splitter with PSU power socket will work great.. and Swiftech is probably the best. You just use the PWM signal from motherboard to a PWM splitter and don't worry about the rpm lead. That will be coming from the Phanteks hub master fan.


----------



## Hereisphilly

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roxycon*
> 
> the corsair link (the software is bad as f*, but is an option) the fan hub for aquaero 5 or even the unit itself without the screen (can be mounted anywhere) and last but not least your motherboard
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> those are they i know about tho, also a person on ocn manufacturing its own fan hub soon to go out for sale for the community


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> No, but you figured that out yourself.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For PWM fans a PWM splitter with PSU power socket will work great.. and Swiftech is probably the best. You just use the PWM signal from motherboard to a PWM splitter and don't worry about the rpm lead. That will be coming from the Phanteks hub master fan.


Yeah I figured it out as I looked at it again
Yeah the problem I have is all the fans aren't pwm, so I can only use voltage regulation to adjust the speed

I saw the aquareo systems, Really pricey, but if they do the job might be worth it. I was hoping for a stopgap sorta solution until someone finds out about whether another pwm is for sale and when.
Might just go for a bog standard fan controller until then...


----------



## bond32

Just placed the preorder for this on newegg. After my total debacle with the primochill wetbench: http://www.overclock.net/t/1430472/primochill-wetbench#post_20928300 my hopes of having the ultimate water test bench are gone. Back to the case...


----------



## jassilamba

The BEST PWM splitter that I have used so far is the swiftech 8 way PWM splitter, I have all the fans for the bottom 480 Rad, installed on to that splitter, the fact that it takes in Molex power and PWM signal from the Mobo make it a great idea.

In my build I have all the non lower 480 fans hooked up to the enthoo fan hub. My system is as quiet as it can get with some great temps.

http://www.swiftech.com/8-waypwmsplitter.aspx


----------



## Hereisphilly

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jassilamba*
> 
> The BEST PWM splitter that I have used so far is the swiftech 8 way PWM splitter, I have all the fans for the bottom 480 Rad, installed on to that splitter, the fact that it takes in Molex power and PWM signal from the Mobo make it a great idea.
> 
> In my build I have all the non lower 480 fans hooked up to the enthoo fan hub. My system is as quiet as it can get with some great temps.
> 
> http://www.swiftech.com/8-waypwmsplitter.aspx


Looks really good! Does it control 3 pin non-pwm fans or will it just make them run at full speed?


----------



## bond32

How do some of you have this case already? Where did you get it?


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> How do some of you have this case already? Where did you get it?


He's modzoo reviewer.

wait wait... let me correct my self. HE IS MOD ZOO.


----------



## bond32

Oh I see. Well I placed my preorder, rather expensive with tax and shipping. Came out just under $300...


----------



## Hereisphilly

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> How do some of you have this case already? Where did you get it?


He is one of the lucky few to already have one as he's a reviewer
The rest of us are desperately waiting!
I swear this is the longest thing I've had to wait for, this is much worse than getting my nexus 4 last year before Xmas (anyone who pre-ordred in the 1st batch in the UK will know exactly what I mean)


----------



## bond32

My hope is that after this disaster with the primochill wetbench, I can somehow get store credit from performance pcs and possibly get a 480mm rad. Do the 80mm thick rads fit?


----------



## Hereisphilly

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> My hope is that after this disaster with the primochill wetbench, I can somehow get store credit from performance pcs and possibly get a 480mm rad. Do the 80mm thick rads fit?


All depends on the height of your motherboard heatsinks
If I can direct you to Jesse's massively helpful FAQ, you'll get your answer there

http://themodzoo.com/forum/index.php?/page/articles.html/_/reviews/cases/phanteks-enthoo-primo-full-tower-review-r67?pg=8


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> My hope is that after this disaster with the primochill wetbench, I can somehow get store credit from performance pcs and possibly get a 480mm rad. Do the 80mm thick rads fit?


A 140mm series up to a 280 or a 120mm series up to a 360 80mm thick rad will fit on the bottom - in push-pull if you want - without losing anything. You can fit a 480 80mm thick rad on the bottom - in push-pull if you want - at the expense of the lower HDD cage, or if you don't mind losing both HDD cages you can fit up to a 240/280 80mm thick rad in the front.

Also, it _might_ be possible to fit an 80mm thick 120mm series rad up top too, up to a 480, depending on the height of your mobo heatsinks & ram. There is 70mm clearance from the top of the mobo to the top of the case, and 120mm series rads are ~54mm offset, so it _might_ be possible to have an 80mm thick rad up top (~10mm of the rad by itself will overhang your mobo), and maybe even with a push fan, as long as the mobo and whatever is on it behind the overhanging rad/fan is less than ~50mm or so tall. The same overhanging/offset issue comes into play if you want to have a push fan on a 60mm thick 120mm-series rad up top.

Keep in mind that 480 rads up top thicker than 55mm will also impede into the 5.25 bays at the front, so a 60mm or 80mm thick monsta 480 up top will cost you the top bay, and a monsta with a push fan will cost you the top two.


----------



## bond32

Thanks for the info. I don't think there's a better case out there than this... Especially nothing more future proof. I don't have a nice reservoir right now, but I might get one later. So many mounting points for reservoirs. Also with the pump, I have a D5 and either a tank res or bay res. Plenty of options with this case.


----------



## skupples

Woah, they are already up to S4? Shows how much I pay attention to cellphones... I'm still using the OG Galaxy Nexus... Got it for 50$ new, & payed a local company 100$ to water-proof it.


----------



## jassilamba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hereisphilly*
> 
> Looks really good! Does it control 3 pin non-pwm fans or will it just make them run at full speed?


No just the PWM fans.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> How do some of you have this case already? Where did you get it?


What we have are review samples.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> He's modzoo reviewer.
> 
> wait wait... let me correct my self. HE IS MOD ZOO.


I'm not MOD ZOO, I'm a reviewer. But yes the zoo is more like a home to me.


----------



## skupples

Edit: He is not THE MOD ZOO, He is a reviewer, who sleeps on the floor @ the zoo.


----------



## jassilamba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Edit: He is not THE MOD ZOO, He is a reviewer, who sleeps on the floor @ the zoo.


Lol, ppl who know me in person might agree with that, given how I behave lol.

OT: Saw the block that has been made for the Dark over at the EVGA forums. Looks really good. But I would love to see a bitspower style blocks that covers the VRMs, SB and the CPU.


----------



## bond32

I canceled my newegg preorder, considering preordering it from Phanteks but shipping is still high. Is there any information on a date they would ship out?


----------



## ModernAfro

So i broke down and brought a fractal design arc midi r2 that i got at Microcenter for under 60bucks....... I guess ill wait until they release full waterblocks for my gigabyte cards before going forward with the build.


----------



## Syzygy1290

Does anyone know what the restriction is to the 5.25 bays? If I install a 3 5.25 to 4 3.5" there with a fan will it be able to breathe?


----------



## jassilamba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Syzygy1290*
> 
> Does anyone know what the restriction is to the 5.25 bays? If I install a 3 5.25 to 4 3.5" there with a fan will it be able to breathe?


Simple answer - No, they won't be able to breathe. But if you are a little handy with a dremel, you can make anything breathe.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Syzygy1290*
> 
> I'm not too worried about 3.5 drives. I only have 2 and I can get something like this...
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/18273/cpa-627/Akasa_Cagestor_C31_Triple_525_Drive_Bay_to_Quad_35_HDD_Expansion_Kit_AK-HDA-07.html?tl=g43c12s852


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Syzygy1290*
> 
> Does anyone know what the restriction is to the 5.25 bays? If I install a 3 5.25 to 4 3.5" there with a fan will it be able to breathe?


There may be a little gap around it, but I wouldn't expect that fan to be able to pull much air through the door. You might want to consider removing the door completely if that's what you're wanting to do.

There's so many other options to go overkill with rads in this case and keep all, or at least one of the triple-HDD cages, plus the brackets for 4 SSDs (up to 6 SSDs if/when they make extra brackets available), I'm just not sure why anyone would be wanting to install something like that, especially as it looks like it would be unfiltered, sucking dust into a case that, imho, one of the better things about it is it's filtered intakes.


----------



## jassilamba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> There may be a little gap around it, but I wouldn't expect that fan to be able to pull much air through the door. You might want to consider removing the door completely if that's what you're wanting to do.
> 
> *There's so many other options to go overkill with rads in this case and keep all*, or at least one of the triple-HDD cages, plus the brackets for 4 SSDs (up to 6 SSDs if/when they make extra brackets available), I'm just not sure why anyone would be wanting to install something like that, especially as it looks like it would be unfiltered, sucking dust into a case that, imho, one of the better things about it is it's filtered intakes.


That, if you get a 60MM 480 rad for the top, and a 360 (what ever thickness), rad for the bottom, that right there is more than enough cooling power to cool 3 GPUs and a single CPU (RAM, and Mobo cooling don't add much). WIth that kind of setup you will not lose anything when it comes to mounting drives.


----------



## Syzygy1290

I want to mount my 240mm in the front, but I'm not so keen on pushing hot air over my harddrives...I'm not worried about my SSD, but I need somewhere to mount the two 3.5" drives. I also have a 280 that I was gonna put in the top and a 480 that would go in the bottom.

I was under the impression that the 5.25 bay covers were filtered...?


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Syzygy1290*
> 
> I want to mount my 240mm in the front, but I'm not so keen on pushing hot air over my harddrives...I'm not worried about my SSD, but I need somewhere to mount the two 3.5" drives. I also have a 280 that I was gonna put in the top and a 480 that would go in the bottom.


There won't be any room for a rad in the front with a 480 on the bottom. A 480 of any thickness will take up all the space from front fan to the back of the case, and will require removing the lower HDD cage. I believe you could mount a _240_ in the side with a 480 on the bottom.

Maybe you meant a 480 for the top and a 280 for the bottom? Then you could have room for a rad in the front too, if you're willing to lose the HDD cages.
Quote:


> I was under the impression that the 5.25 bay covers were filtered...?


I believe they are. I was operating under the assumption you would have to remove the bay covers to be able to mount something like that in them.


----------



## Syzygy1290

Not sure to be honest...I was thinking something like this:

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/18273/cpa-627/Akasa_Cagestor_C31_Triple_525_Drive_Bay_to_Quad_35_HDD_Expansion_Kit_AK-HDA-07.html?tl=g43c12s852

or this if I can't use a fan:
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/11439/hdc-76/Akasa_525_Bay_to_25_35_HDD_and_SSD_Adapter_-_Black_AK-HDA-01.html?tl=g43c12s852

I did mean a 240 in the side with the included bracket. I like the 480 in the bottom because it is an alphacool xt and has a nice port I can use as a drain.


----------



## bond32

I have a bay res and a tank res for a d5 pump. Would you guys recommend using the tank on the mounting plate because of the vibration dampers? Or would there be more advantages to the dual bay res?

Also, has anyone found any coupons for the case? Perhaps a discount for us OCN members from phanteks??


----------



## jassilamba

Got the front end all done, and one thing that I hate is the fact that the LED covers are smoked so my white does not look as white as I want it to look like.

I did make little video on for the top one that should come in handy. I will edit and upload the video in a few days (I'm new to whole video editing crap)


----------



## ModernAfro

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jassilamba*
> 
> Got the front end all done, and one thing that I hate is the fact that the LED covers are smoked so my white does not look as white as I want it to look like.
> 
> I did make little video on for the top one that should come in handy. I will edit and upload the video in a few days (I'm new to whole video editing crap)


hows the noise level from the front intake fans? is there a major difference with the swapped grill?


----------



## jassilamba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ModernAfro*
> 
> hows the noise level from the front intake fans? is there a major difference with the swapped grill?


My ears cannot tell the difference. Honestly the loudest thing that I have at the moment in my build is the pump (you have to put your ear next to it to hear it). I cannot hear the fans at all, and the phanteks fans are of great quality and build. But to simply answer your questions, I cannot tell any difference between the noise level with the slotted grill in place.


----------



## Roxycon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> I have a bay res and a tank res for a d5 pump. Would you guys recommend using the tank on the mounting plate because of the vibration dampers? Or would there be more advantages to the dual bay res?
> 
> Also, has anyone found any coupons for the case? Perhaps a discount for us OCN members from phanteks??


what bayres do you have?

Normally the bay res'es come with damping inlays with threads for them



I know that xspc dual d5 bayres and ekwb's resses are damped for the mounting, so everything sums up to your preference and how comfortable you are with filling from either way (ek bayres are useless to fill'n'bleed but the xspc one i used for a 420 rad and a 240 rad and a cpu block, had the inlet far enough to the front so youll not need excessive amount of tubing to get around filling it) but if you get a separate filling port bayreses would be a breeze any brand









I will go for an xspc dual d5 bayres for this case since it'll be more stealth than anything


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

I gave a little thought to going with a bay/res, but I'm dead-set on using rigid acrylic tubing - already bought more than I'll need - and I thought I might run into issues trying to fill it if the tubing wouldn't let me pull it out even just a little bit. That, and I've read a few horror stories where quite a few people claimed to have problems with some models leaking and whatnot, makes me leery to go with a bay/res.

Now I'm looking into mounting the new xspc photon pump/res on that res bracket.

http://www.xs-pc.com/water-pumps/d5-photon-270-reservoirpump-combo

 

The photon res's are fat - the res itself is 75mm iirc, and that pump/res is listed as 85mm wide, I assume that's at the pump ring - its widest point - so putting that res there would be a no-go for many GPUs, but I'll be running reference GTX760s that have a short 6" pcb so I should have no such problems running them in sli in any slots they'll fit and still using that res bracket with even the fattest of res's mounted to it.

I'm _really_ hoping that 270 will fit there but it's 350mm tall so if it will it'll be a tight fit, hopefully leaving a little room between it and the rads/fans top and bottom. I've asked Jesse at themodzoo if he can get me an inside measurement of the case from the bottom to the top so I can figure out if it'll work or not. If so I'm ordering it right away. lol


----------



## skupples

Watch out for Maelstrom dual pump dual bay res. It's finding many cases it doesn't quite fit into, 900D being one of them. Have to dremel the case.

If enthoo has... idk what to call them... Prongs on the drive bay's, it may interfere with bayres.


----------



## bond32

That Photon res looks so darn good in my opinion... If I didn't already have a bay and tank I would pick one up.

Thanks for the info on the reservoirs, I have both the XSPC dual bay res and the XSPC tank res for a D5. I suppose for purposes of bleeding the loop the bay res would be the better option.


----------



## skupples

& here I thought bay res was the harder type to bleed.


----------



## jassilamba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> & here I thought bay res was the harder type to bleed.


Me too, I love ease of bleeding a tube res.


----------



## Roxycon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> & here I thought bay res was the harder type to bleed.


the xspc one i have used was a breeze.. took 15 min with 3 stops for filling more water in the tank and let out excessive air, that being said, i bled from my ek dcp 2.2 pumpres combo in my sig rig and im feeling more comfortable with filling a tube res than bayres with a full bottle of liquid


----------



## bond32

I'm sure a tube res is easier, but between the tank and bay I have now, I have found the bay res to be easier. Possibly because it sits higher allowing the air to reach the top quicker.


----------



## bond32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> I gave a little thought to going with a bay/res, but I'm dead-set on using rigid acrylic tubing - already bought more than I'll need - and I thought I might run into issues trying to fill it if the tubing wouldn't let me pull it out even just a little bit. That, and I've read a few horror stories where quite a few people claimed to have problems with some models leaking and whatnot, makes me leery to go with a bay/res.
> 
> Now I'm looking into mounting the new xspc photon pump/res on that res bracket.
> 
> http://www.xs-pc.com/water-pumps/d5-photon-270-reservoirpump-combo
> 
> 
> 
> The photon res's are fat - the res itself is 75mm iirc, and that pump/res is listed as 85mm wide, I assume that's at the pump ring - its widest point - so putting that res there would be a no-go for many GPUs, but I'll be running reference GTX760s that have a short 6" pcb so I should have no such problems running them in sli in any slots they'll fit and still using that res bracket with even the fattest of res's mounted to it.
> 
> I'm _really_ hoping that 270 will fit there but it's 350mm tall so if it will it'll be a tight fit, hopefully leaving a little room between it and the rads/fans top and bottom. I've asked Jesse at themodzoo if he can get me an inside measurement of the case from the bottom to the top so I can figure out if it'll work or not. If so I'm ordering it right away. lol






 check out somewhere around 11:20 he has the photon 270, shows the fitting on the side next to graphics cards


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> check out somewhere around 11:20 he has the photon 270, shows the fitting on the side next to graphics cards


Yeah I've seen that vid a many a time now. The photon 270 I'm interested in is newer and is a pump/res combo that has a D5 pump attached to the bottom which makes it much taller (350mm) than the one shown in that vid.

Also @ 11:20 into that vid they are fitting the photon 270 res by itself to the mounting location on the back of the case, not the res bracket where I'm interested in mounting the res/pump combo (there will likely be no room at all for a res of any sort on the back of the case in that location in my build), but at about 15:30 he does position it up against that bracket, but not to where I can get any real idea how the res/pump combo would fit or not with relation to the rads/fans I'll be running.

I'm not worried at all about how thick the res is with respect to GPUs as my cards have a very short 6" PCB. I'm worried only about whether the photon 270 D5 combo might be too tall to fit between my 80mm thick rad on the bottom and 45mm thick rad on top, both in push-pull.

Phanteks lists the case itself outside dimensions as being 650mm tall.
My rads w/ fans will take up 225mm of that space (25+80+25 + 25+45+25).
That leaves only 425mm, or rather only 75mm more than the 350mm tall res+pump, and that doesn't account for however much space there is below the floor of the case (the feet) and above the top fan & below the top filter, and the thickness of the case itself, etc.

I suspect/hope it's going to fit, but if so it'll be with only a tiny space above and below it and the fans. If not I guess I'll consider the Photon 170 but the shorter res doesn't hold near as much appeal to me & I might consider something else instead.

I need the inside of the case to be at least 550mm tall, and preferably 10mm or more than that, or the Photon 270 D5 pump combo is not going to fit.

I guess I won't know for sure until Jesse posts back some exact measurements at TheModZoo later when he gets back home.


----------



## jassilamba

Funny story about the photon res that we used in the video. I had set the res on the table while we were looking for something, and next thing we hear is something rolling, by the time we turned around the Photon 270 had rolled of the table and hit the asphalt. It did not sound good, but to my surprise the glass did not breat. Wish we had captured that on the camera. Bill and I were really surprised by the quality of the glass and that it survived a decent fall (for a glass item).

I will get you the info once I get home as promised.


----------



## OutlawII

That's a tuff res to survive a pavement drop

Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk now Free


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> I gave a little thought to going with a bay/res, but I'm dead-set on using rigid acrylic tubing - already bought more than I'll need - and I thought I might run into issues trying to fill it if the tubing wouldn't let me pull it out even just a little bit.


I was planning a "Tee" in the loop with rigid tube going up thru the top of case with bulkhead fitting

Bitspower G1/4" Female / Female Pass-Through Fitting - (Fillport) - Matte Black (BP-MBWP-C04)http://www.frozencpu.com/products/10364/ex-tub-608/Bitspower_G14_Female_Female_Pass-Through_Fitting_-_Fillport_-_Matte_Black_BP-MBWP-C04.html
Bitspower G1/4" Low Profile Matte Black Stop Plug w/ O-Ring (BP-MBWP-C09)http://www.frozencpu.com/products/10362/ex-tub-610/Bitspower_G14_Low_Profile_Matte_Black_Stop_Plug_w_O-Ring_BP-MBWP-C09.html
Koolance Threaded Rubber Funnel - G1/4" Thread (LIQ-FNL) http://www.frozencpu.com/products/10256/koo-206/Koolance_Threaded_Rubber_Funnel_-_G14_Thread_LIQ-FNL.html

Unscrew the plug .... screw in the funnel and fill'er up....... remove, then replace plug. See opening seconds here;






Way coolest build ever BTW ..... anyone wanna lend me their CNC machine

For drain was gonna use another tee with quik-discconnect ..... one side of the QD stays in the case, other side gets some flex hose and stays in the draw till drain time.
Quote:


> That, and I've read a few horror stories where quite a few people claimed to have problems with some models leaking and whatnot, makes me leery to go with a bay/res.


Im in same boat ..... but so much so afraid of the acrylic that I'm gonan use a borosilicate glass model ... basically laboratory grade glass


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Jesse replied back at themodzoo with the inside height of the case ...
Quote:


> Jesse, on 08 Oct 2013 - 7:40 PM, said:
> 
> There is ~16" or 406mm of space between the mobo ledge to the top, and *the total top to bottom inside the case is ~22.6" / 575mm.*
> Let me know if that helps.


Awesome! It sounds like it's going to fit, just barely.

My XT45 480 up top is 46mm + 25mm for the push fan = 71mm
My monsta 360 on the bottom is 80mm + 50mm for push-pull fans = 130mm.

So, 71mm + 130mm + 350mm for the res = 551mm
So, judging by all that, I figure I should have about ~10mm space each top and bottom between the res/pump and the fans.

lol, like it was made specifically for it. I feel I must buy it now.











Makes me glad I decided against getting a 480 UT60 to put up top instead of the XT45.

Now if that case would just get here!!!!


----------



## bond32

Any updates on shipping? Also to those of you with the case, I was planning on adding a thick rx240 in the front side with the bracket as well as possibly a single 120mm on the bottom next to that while keeping the front 140mm intakes untouched, would this work? Removing the hard drive cages of course...


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> Any updates on shipping? Also to those of you with the case, I was planning on adding a thick rx240 in the front side with the bracket as well as possibly a single 120mm on the bottom next to that while keeping the front 140mm intakes untouched, would this work? Removing the hard drive cages of course...


No new word on shipping other than Phanteks still says they are "scheduled to ship October 18, 2013", and in their forum has assured those of us who pre-ordered from Phanteks that our cases will go out first.

Newegg is still listing a release date of Oct 14, so take from that what you will.

You can fit a rad using the side bracket and also have a 120mm series rad in the bottom up front right next to it, but I'm not sure how thick of a radiator you can get away with using in that side bracket. I suspect you won't be able to put a monsta 80mm there on that bracket and still have a 120mm series rad there on the bottom where the HDD cages go, and maybe not a 60mm either.

Like you said, you'd need a reviewer who already has the case, like Jesse or ciarlatano, to answer something like that for sure, at least until a week or so from now when those of us who pre-ordered already should start getting them.


----------



## jassilamba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Jesse replied back at themodzoo with the inside height of the case ...
> 
> Awesome! It sounds like it's going to fit, just barely.
> 
> My XT45 480 up top is 46mm + 25mm for the push fan = 71mm
> My monsta 360 on the bottom is 80mm + 50mm for push-pull fans = 130mm.
> 
> So, 71mm + 130mm + 350mm for the res = 551mm
> So, judging by all that, I figure I should have about ~10mm space each top and bottom between the res/pump and the fans.
> 
> lol, like it was made specifically for it. I feel I must buy it now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Makes me glad I decided against getting a 480 UT60 to put up top instead of the XT45.
> 
> Now if that case would just get here!!!!


Sine you are planning a very similar setup as to mine so let me give you an exact number. The space between my lower rad (push pull) and the top rad )XT 45 in pull) is 15.5" or 395mm. Take another 25 out for the fans on the top and you have 370mm. You should have enough to clear the setup that you have in mind.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> Any updates on shipping? Also to those of you with the case, I was planning on adding a thick rx240 in the front side with the bracket as well as possibly a single 120mm on the bottom next to that while keeping the front 140mm intakes untouched, would this work? Removing the hard drive cages of course...


There is 3" of space in the side, that translates to approx 76 ~ 77mm. The RX rad is 60mm thick. You will not have enough space to mount the rad and put 120mm rad on the floor next to it. A 45mm thick rad might work so maybe the EX or AX series might work better. No matter what you do with a bracket the front intakes will be fine and you don't have to worry about them.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jassilamba*
> 
> Sine you are planning a very similar setup as to mine so let me give you an exact number. The space between my lower rad (push pull) and the top rad )XT 45 in pull) is 15.5" or 395mm. Take another 25 out for the fans on the top and you have 370mm. You should have enough to clear the setup that you have in mind.


Thanks so much Jesse for that.
Thanks to you I know it's going to fit so I can go ahead and order it.

With only ~20mm extra I'm not sure if I'll be able to position it so I'll be able to get to that fill port or not on the top of that res. I've got a few ideas how I might get around that though. I will make it work. lol

Thanks again for making yourself available for all of us to keep pestering you like this. I know for me at least it's helped me to be a lot less crazy while I'm waiting for this case to arrive. If not I wouldn't have been able to plan my build much if at all so far.


----------



## jassilamba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Thanks so much Jesse for that.
> Thanks to you I know it's going to fit so I can go ahead and order it.
> 
> With only ~20mm extra I'm not sure if I'll be able to position it so I'll be able to get to that fill port or not on the top of that res. I've got a few ideas how I might get around that though. I will make it work. lol
> 
> Thanks again for making yourself available for all of us to keep pestering you like this. I know for me at least it's helped me to be a lot less crazy while I'm waiting for this case to arrive. If not I wouldn't have been able to plan my build much if at all so far.


Not a pestering at all mate. I'm just like a lot of you figuring things as I go.

This was my first build - http://www.overclock.net/t/1310569/build-log-nzxt-monster-810-build and honestly I wish I had asked more questions and planned better. But oh well with a dremel in your hand nothing is impossible.


----------



## bond32

Thanks for the responses. I mainly just wanted to make use of this single 120mm rad I have, I know it doesn't provide much cooling if any especially considering at the moment the only thing water cooled is my cpu. Suppose I will just do the RX radiator on the bracket then.


----------



## jassilamba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> Thanks for the responses. I mainly just wanted to make use of this single 120mm rad I have, I know it doesn't provide much cooling if any especially considering at the moment the only thing water cooled is my cpu. Suppose I will just do the RX radiator on the bracket then.


You can always add the 120 on the back.


----------



## bond32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jassilamba*
> 
> You can always add the 120 on the back.


True, but I would rather use the included fans than the rad to be honest. I will be mounting a 360 up top in push pull, to be honest that is more than enough for just the cpu.


----------



## jassilamba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> True, but I would rather use the included fans than the rad to be honest. I will be mounting a 360 up top in push pull, to be honest that is more than enough for just the cpu.


Agreed, that is all you need for a CPU and even a single GPU with room left for overclocking.


----------



## chrisnyc75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Thanks again for making yourself available for all of us to keep pestering you like this. I know for me at least it's helped me to be a lot less crazy while I'm waiting for this case to arrive. If not I wouldn't have been able to plan my build much if at all so far.


Yes, and thank you also on behalf of all of us who are planning our builds quietly lurking in the background taking in all the wonderful info you're taking the time to share.


----------



## jassilamba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chrisnyc75*
> 
> Yes, and thank you also on behalf of all of us who are planning our builds quietly lurking in the background taking in all the wonderful info you're taking the time to share.


Haha, anytime guys, and please make sure you stop by the modzoo.com and show some love over there as well.

Here is some more random info regarding the case (based on a user question)

What size screws are used in the case (in the event you want to replace them)

6-32 - 5mm, 10mm, and Thumb Screws
M4 - 6 ~ 7mm, and 30mm
M3 - 5mm


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Awesome! It sounds like it's going to fit, just barely.
> 
> My XT45 480 up top is 46mm + 25mm for the push fan = 71mm
> My monsta 360 on the bottom is 80mm + 50mm for push-pull fans = 130mm.
> 
> So, 71mm + 130mm + 350mm for the res = 551mm
> So, judging by all that, I figure I should have about ~10mm space each top and bottom between the res/pump and the fans.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> !


I been following ya post because I'm looking at similar set up.

For the top 140 x 420 (provides 58,800 sq.mm vs 57,600sq mm for the 120 x 480 and allows me to use Phantek's fans) , haven't decided wither to use a UT 60 w/ one set of fans or XT45 with two. Will wait till I have case and MoBo installed before taking final measurements and see just what clearances are there with the Asus M6F. For the bottom, I'm leaning to a 140 x 280

I have attached a preliminary AutoCAD schematic which I prepped up while home with the Flu..... some thoughts since then ....

- I having my doubts as to whether we will ever see the Asus Poseidon GFX cards.
- Flip flopping back and forth between the 35x2 double pump and the Aquacomputer Aquastream XT ultra (for silence and elimination of Aquaero)
- After adding up the costs, decided to bend the rigid tubes and eliminate most of the fittings

M6F - Enthoo Build.pdf 222k .pdf file


But what still has me curious on ya plan there is how ya gonna fill and bleed that thing.


----------



## Hereisphilly

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> I been following ya post because I'm looking at similar set up.
> 
> For the top 140 x 420 (provides 58,800 sq.mm vs 57,600sq mm for the 120 x 480 and allows me to use Phantek's fans) , haven't decided wither to use a UT 60 w/ one set of fans or XT45 with two. Will wait till I have case and MoBo installed before taking final measurements and see just what clearances are there with the Asus M6F. For the bottom, I'm leaning to a 140 x 280
> 
> But what still has me curious on ya plan there is how ya gonna fill and bleed that thing.


I'm planning on doing the exact same thing as you guys
Got a 280 Monsta for the bottom, and a 240 xt45 for the front, and then waiting till I get the case so I can measure up for the top rad. I know a 420 xt45 will fit in push pull, but there may be a possibility that a ut60 in push pull will fit with my motherboard

I've got a 150mm balancer res which I'll fit on the res bracket and fill through the top port
Have you thought about getting a tube red?

On another note, OCUK told me they are looking at 1st week in November now as an ETA


----------



## doyll

First week of November is about right.. assuming no ship doesn't break down and customs doesn't hold them up.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hereisphilly*
> 
> I'm planning on doing the exact same thing as you guys
> Got a 280 Monsta for the bottom, and a 240 xt45 for the front, and then waiting till I get the case so I can measure up for the top rad. I know a 420 xt45 will fit in push pull, but there may be a possibility that a ut60 in push pull will fit with my motherboard


I have oft wondered about the value of water cooling in the Haswell era. If it was just for performance improvements, I thiink most of us recongnize it can never be justified from a cost / ROI stand point. And, after reading this.......

http://www.anandtech.com/show/7363/the-neophytes-custom-liquid-cooling-guide-how-to-why-to-what-to-expect





.... while I think that builder of that system could have made better choices, what I think I'm gonna do is build the thing on air (w/ Phanteks PH-TC14-PE) ..... and then do the rest of the build (water cooling) over XMas-New Year holidays. This way I'll have plenty of time to take measurements, evaluate options and no down time on the PC.

Hopefully I will have better results







.


----------



## Hereisphilly

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> First week of November is about right.. assuming no ship doesn't break down and customs doesn't hold them up.


Oh god please don't put those ideas in my head!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> I have oft wondered about the value of water cooling in the Haswell era. If it was just for performance improvements, I thiink most of us recongnize it can never be justified from a cost / ROI stand point. And, after reading this.......
> 
> http://www.anandtech.com/show/7363/the-neophytes-custom-liquid-cooling-guide-how-to-why-to-what-to-expect
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .... while I think that builder of that system could have made better choices, what I think I'm gonna do is build the thing on air (w/ Phanteks PH-TC14-PE) ..... and then do the rest of the build (water cooling) over XMas-New Year holidays. This way I'll have plenty of time to take measurements, evaluate options and no down time on the PC.
> 
> Hopefully I will have better results
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


I saw that anandtech review, I think he did need more rad area and something didn't seem quite right about the temp/noise ratio

If I get results like that I'm definitely going to look at delidding and then either using the naked mount for my eupremacy or using CLU and re-seating the IHS, either way though, my GPUs are quiet and I can clock them high!


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Did ya see the weisenheimer comment (page 6" .... well to my reading it came off as rather snarky ... where the dude said 100 sq mm per 100 watts
Quote:


> As a rule of thumb systems i sell as silent have !at least! (100mm)² radiator area per 100 Watts of expected maximum thermal output.


For a 4770k and twin 780s ..... I'd say 150 for the CPU and 300 per for the 780s .... would be 750 watts and by his formula..... 750 mm² ..... well a single 120 x 120 is 14,400mm²

I think what he meany was 100 x 100 or 10,000 mm² or actually 100 mm² per watt

750 watts x 100 mm² = 75,000 mm²

100 x 100 = 10,000
120 x 120 = 14,400
140 x 140 = 19,600

So using the corrected value....

w/ 120 mm fans, ya'd need a total length of 625 mm (240 + 360 = 600 .... 480 + 240 or 360 + 360 = 720 or 115% of minimum using his corrected formula)
w/ 140 mm fans, ya'd need a total length of 535 mm (280 + 280 = 600 .... 420 + 280 = 700 or 131% of minimum using his corrected formula)

That seems in the ballpark .... and fits nicely in the Enthoo


----------



## Roxycon

have any of you guy preordered the case from overclockers uk? got a red warning at checkout after typing in the security line from my bank which stated that they couldn't go through with the payment, but i checked my account and it says it got through in the process of getting charged







what could i do?

the other orders i did;

and


cant wait for the new parts


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> I been following ya post because I'm looking at similar set up.
> 
> For the top 140 x 420 (provides 58,800 sq.mm vs 57,600sq mm for the 120 x 480 and allows me to use Phantek's fans) , haven't decided wither to use a UT 60 w/ one set of fans or XT45 with two. Will wait till I have case and MoBo installed before taking final measurements and see just what clearances are there with the Asus M6F. For the bottom, I'm leaning to a 140 x 280
> 
> But what still has me curious on ya plan there is how ya gonna fill and bleed that thing.


Well, since you asked, it's going to be kind of hard to explain what I'm thinking, but I'll try.

I currently have two ways I'm planning on setting it up for filling/ draining. How I would most like to be able to set it up will be a very tight squeeze and I won't be able to tell until after the case & res gets here, and it's going to come down to a few mm's whether it will fit or not, and my backup plan I ought to be able to make fit regardless. In either way I want to set it up I'll be adding multiple fill ports, and one drain port. The reason for multiple fill ports is so I can fill up not just the res, but most of the loop by having them both open one will allow air to escape while I fill the other. The only thing that will vary should be where I'll be able to attach the one fill port to the res.

Here's how I most want to do it ...



I'll start with what will be the same either way.

For fill port 'A' in the image above I plan to cut a hole in the top panel of the case directly above one of the XT45's top-facing inlet/outlet ports so I can fit the port with a 15mm G1/4 male to female extension and a cap ...



For the drain, 'C', I will be doing the same thing, adding a capped 15 to 25mm extension to the drain port on the end of the monsta that will protrude through a hole I will cut in the back of the case for it. I believe that port will line up somewhere in the vented removable panel for a 2nd PSU or thereabouts ...



Fill port 'B' is what will be tricky. Ideally, I'd like to be able to attach a piece of flexible hose to the fill port in the top of the res and snake it up beside the rad to mount a fill port in the top of the case. The thing is, given Jesse's measurements it looks like if I want to go with that 270 Photon D5 combo I'll only have 20mm to 25mm or so space left over betweens my rads/fans, so I'm not sure I'll be able to fit it. If I can I'll be using xspc's fill port M20 to G1/4" adapter and Koolance's 90 deg low profile rotary elbow that's only 17mm, and fitting a barb & hose onto that.



And, if it turns out, as I suspect it will, that there's not enough room to mount a hose to the top of the res, then I'll route that fillport down the side of the res to one of the two input ports, like so ...


----------



## Hereisphilly

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roxycon*
> 
> have any of you guy preordered the case from overclockers uk? got a red warning at checkout after typing in the security line from my bank which stated that they couldn't go through with the payment, but i checked my account and it says it got through in the process of getting charged
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> what could i do?
> 
> the other orders i did;
> 
> and
> 
> 
> cant wait for the new parts


I have had mine on preorder with OCUK since August 21st!
Best thing to do is to ring them and check the status of the payment, they're very good with customer service.
One thing i will point out, they have a naugty policy with regards to payment. They fully charge your account at time of ordering, rather than at time of dispatch like ALL other retailers would do.
One orders that are in stock its not too bad, as they dispatch same day but for preorders it sucks.
Case in point, I have paid £300 for my case and 7 extra fans order, but have yet to get the case delivered obviously.

Rang OCUK, they would be happy to cancel my order and refund the money, but then of course I would lose my place in the preorder queue.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Hmmm, I guess I overloaded it with my post above because it won't let me edit that post at all. I was trying to add this image I forgot showing where I plan to be able to add the fill port going to the res in the top of the case next to the rad/fans. For this one, instead of just capping off an extender like the others, I'll be using an actual pass-through fill port adapter with a barb for the flexible hose going to it (the rest of my loop will be rigid acrylic tubing).



Looking at that image may be a bit deceiving, but from looking at it from different angles from above and below in some of the review vids I'm all but positive there will be enough room to run a hose up behind the rad and mount a fill port there somewhere. Worst case I figure that I might have to get a little crazy with a dremel, but I'm confident it will happen.


----------



## jassilamba

@Unicr0nhunter, It might be easier to just remove the fan right above the fill port, that might give you just enough space to put in a 90 degree barb fitting, and then fill in the res. Little advice with the Photon res, it fills better if the res is at an angle, so just raise one side of the case a bit. If you dont tilt the res, the flow channel gets blocked and fluid stops flowing.


----------



## Roxycon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hereisphilly*
> 
> I have had mine on preorder with OCUK since August 21st!
> Best thing to do is to ring them and check the status of the payment, they're very good with customer service.
> One thing i will point out, they have a naugty policy with regards to payment. They fully charge your account at time of ordering, rather than at time of dispatch like ALL other retailers would do.
> One orders that are in stock its not too bad, as they dispatch same day but for preorders it sucks.
> Case in point, I have paid £300 for my case and 7 extra fans order, but have yet to get the case delivered obviously.
> 
> Rang OCUK, they would be happy to cancel my order and refund the money, but then of course I would lose my place in the preorder queue.


Aw have to check again tomorrow then







do you know if they have a land line or if they use cellphones?

Ringing from norway could be a expensive affair but we have it free as long as it is to landlines


----------



## Hereisphilly

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roxycon*
> 
> Aw have to check again tomorrow then
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> do you know if they have a land line or if they use cellphones?
> 
> Ringing from norway could be a expensive affair but we have it free as long as it is to landlines


Yes its a central landline, but its a business number so it may be best to check before you call
Number is +44871 200 5052 FYI


----------



## doyll

Check out their website
http://www.overclockers.co.uk/contact.php

As I'm in UK if you need anything ask. Maybe I can help.


----------



## Roxycon

In your order history, does it appear with the case? Maybe the order dosnt get processed before they got it in stock


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jassilamba*
> 
> @Unicr0nhunter, It might be easier to just remove the fan right above the fill port, that might give you just enough space to put in a 90 degree barb fitting, and then fill in the res. Little advice with the Photon res, it fills better if the res is at an angle, so just raise one side of the case a bit. If you dont tilt the res, the flow channel gets blocked and fluid stops flowing.


I thought about that, and it's a possibility if need be, but I'm pretty sure removing the fan would be a PITA.

Anywho, the way I was looking at it, I really think that if I could just get a hose fit onto the top of that res, I should be able to fill up pretty much the entire loop including the res by pouring into the fill port that I'm going to add to one of the top rad ports at the rear of the case (fill port 'A' in my example above). I think that should let me fill up the top rad and flow down through the GPUs to completely fill the lower rad and flow back up through the res just as long as the cap is off the fill port to the top of the res (fill port 'B') to let the air escape.

However, if I can't get a hose to fit in the top of that res it's going to be airlocked above that trio of inlet / outlet ports so I'll have to figure something else out. Perhaps I'll be able to get enough water up into the res by tilting the case.

That, or I have a tiny right-angle ratcheting screwdriver that should let me get to that top fill port even if there's only 15-20mm of clearance there. Might be a little tricky snaking in a hose from a squeeze bottle to fill it that way, but I think I'll only have to fill up the res that way, and then the rest of my loop I can fill up through the fill ports in the top.

Edit:
Actually, after thinking about it, I think if I were to JUST crack the seal on that res' top fill port fitting to let the air escape and I could just fill the loop up with the through that top rad port (port 'A') just until the res is completely full before closing the res fill port back up, then fill the rest of the loop incl the top rad all the way up.

Also, if I install the fill port into the top port of the outlet chamber of that top rad, as opposed to the inlet where water would be shooting straight up into the rad from where the inlet tube is attached underneath it, I'm thinking that with the back of the case propped up slightly higher than the front that I might be able to leave the fill port (A) open while I cycle the pump and since that would be the highest place in my loop it would hopefully be the place where most of the air bubbles would wind up and I could just keep filling it there as needed.

I can't wait to get the case and everything else I'll need to try it out.


----------



## Hereisphilly

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roxycon*
> 
> In your order history, does it appear with the case? Maybe the order dosnt get processed before they got it in stock


The order should appear under outstanding orders, as it would be an order that has yet to be dispatched
Order history is reserved for fully completed and dispatched orders


----------



## Roxycon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hereisphilly*
> 
> The order should appear under outstanding orders, as it would be an order that has yet to be dispatched
> Order history is reserved for fully completed and dispatched orders


Mkay, seems like ill have to ring them tomorrow then







tnx for the help annyhow


----------



## Hereisphilly

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roxycon*
> 
> Mkay, seems like ill have to ring them tomorrow then
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> tnx for the help annyhow


No worries bro, hope u get it sorted


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

My rads and my psu just arrived!



And as excited as I am to get the new toys, one of the first things I checked was the actual thickness of the rads. I was depending on the 'specifications' listed at FrozenCPU which for the 360 monsta rad says: "Dimensions (LxWxH): 124x399x80mm. Well, it seems the monsta rad is actually 85 mm thick.



Gonna make it a little tougher to fit that photon 270 res/D5 pump combo in there afterall.


----------



## jassilamba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> My rads and my psu just arrived!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And as excited as I am to get the new toys, one of the first things I checked was the actual thickness of the rads. I was depending on the 'specifications' listed at FrozenCPU which for the 360 monsta rad says: "Dimensions (LxWxH): 124x399x80mm. Well, it seems the monsta rad is actually 85 mm thick.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Gonna make it a little tougher to fit that photon 270 res/D5 pump combo in there afterall.


The last set of measurements that I gave you were based off the 85mm thickness of the monsta.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jassilamba*
> 
> The last set of measurements that I gave you were based off the 85mm thickness of the monsta.


That's right! That second set of measurements you gave was from the top of the monsta w/ push-pull fans to the bottom of the XT45.

That's good to know.









So now I'm right back to ~20mm of space to see if I can make it work. lol

Hate to admit it, but I'm starting to try to figure out what that Photon 170 / D5 pump combo would look like up in there. Don't really like it so much but sure would be a lot easier.


----------



## jassilamba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> That's right! That second set of measurements you gave was from the top of the monsta w/ push-pull fans to the bottom of the XT45.
> 
> That's good to know.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So now I'm right back to ~20mm of space to see if I can make it work. lol
> 
> Hate to admit it, but I'm starting to try to figure out what that Photon 170 / D5 pump combo would look like up in there. Don't really like it so much but sure would be a lot easier.


Wish they had a DDC combo out as well. That would be perfect given the low profile of the pump.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Well, I went ahead and ordered the Photon 270 D5 pump combo, and an assortment of fittings. I'm not going to settle for the smaller 170, at least not until I've tried everything I can think of to fit that 270 in there, even though I must admit it's looking like I'm really going to need at least 5mm more to fit it without having to go through some headaches to fill it, but I'm thinking I'd rather have the headaches than that smaller res.

Worse comes to worse, if for whatever reason I just can't make it work, I'll keep it and hold onto it to use in my Cosmo II whenever I get around to putting it underwater, and get a different res for the Enthoo Primo. In that case perhaps I will just go ahead and get the Photon 270 w/o the pump and make use of the pump bracket in the back afterall. I dunno. I don't want to even think any more about it. I just have to make that 270 pump combo work one way or another, lol


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Well, since you asked, it's going to be kind of hard to explain what I'm thinking, but I'll try.
> 
> I currently have two ways I'm planning on setting it up for filling/ draining. How I would most like to be able to set it up will be a very tight squeeze and I won't be able to tell until after the case & res gets here, and it's going to come down to a few mm's whether it will fit or not, and my backup plan I ought to be able to make fit regardless.......


This will be handy fo the fill

Koolance Threaded Rubber Funnel w/ Bleed Tube - G1/4" Thread (LIQ-FNL)
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/10256/koo-206/Koolance_Threaded_Rubber_Funnel_-_G14_Thread_LIQ-FNL.html

I agree....snaking that tube is gonna be real hard .... option A or B. I see how the fill is going to work, but if the snaking doesn't work wondering though how the air gets out .... perhaps using a similar arrangement at the other top rad with another bulkhead fitting and a bleed tube (detachable G1/4 compression fitting with 12" flexible tube w/ bleeder valve) would at least allow the air not to have to bubble thru the radiator.

But can that fitting fit ? You'll need a male x male to connect to the rad, then the 15mm Female x female extender .... frozen doesn't list lengths but Im sure you've checked, does that end up with the plug above or below the case top ? I was hoping to use one of these w/ same plug:
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/10364/ex-tub-608/Bitspower_G14_Female_Female_Pass-Through_Fitting_-_Fillport_-_Matte_Black_BP-MBWP-C04.html

http://www.frozencpu.com/images/products/main/ex-tub-608.jpg

For the drain port, I'm thinking of either a reservoir drain or a similar to your idea.... although I'll proally use a UT60 as the Monsta seems to high to get the tubing thru the higher of the two openings that go thru the PSU shroud. It also allows me to use the bottom opening in the Rad for a drain tho I will probably use a quik disconnect instead of a plug.

Another option for ya if ya run into problems might be for ya to:

1) have a 90 degree fitting out of the top rad come out towards the left side of the case ending in a male quik disconnect just inside the door

2) have a 90 degree fitting out of the bot rad come out towards the left side of the case ending in a male quik disconnect just inside the door

On the female disconnect, ya have a 90 degree fitting .....

1) When ya filling, ya screw in ya funnel

2) When ya draining, ya screw in a male compression fitting with a cupla feet of flex tube and drain to a pail on the floor


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Hmmm, I guess I overloaded it with my post above because it won't let me edit that post at all.


I think editing is disabled at the moment cause I can't edit my rather short reply. Here's the image of that bulkhead fitting.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Gonna make it a little tougher to fit that photon 270 res/D5 pump combo in there afterall.


I'm sure ya thought of putting the pump in the back in the pump pad and just running a tube back to it ? Would solve a lotta ya fit issues.


----------



## jassilamba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Well, I went ahead and ordered the Photon 270 D5 pump combo, and an assortment of fittings. I'm not going to settle for the smaller 170, at least not until I've tried everything I can think of to fit that 270 in there, even though I must admit it's looking like I'm really going to need at least 5mm more to fit it without having to go through some headaches to fill it, but I'm thinking I'd rather have the headaches than that smaller res.
> 
> Worse comes to worse, if for whatever reason I just can't make it work, I'll keep it and hold onto it to use in my Cosmo II whenever I get around to putting it underwater, and get a different res for the Enthoo Primo. In that case perhaps I will just go ahead and get the Photon 270 w/o the pump and make use of the pump bracket in the back afterall. I dunno. I don't want to even think any more about it. I just have to make that 270 pump combo work one way or another, lol


Thats the spirit, once you have the case, don't lock yourself to that one position, feel free to try out new ideas and ways.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Interesting data ..... while we are all sitting here wondering about rad thickness, I'm noticing adding thickness really doesn't have a lot of impact.

http://martinsliquidlab.org/2012/04/12/alphacool-nexxxos-ut60-360-radiator/4/
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?287200-Flower-Labs-News-Comparison-of-Radiator-Cooling-Efficiency
http://martinsliquidlab.petrastech.com/Radiator-Fan-Orientation-And-Shroud-Testing-Review.html

I took the 45mm and 60mm 360 rads from Martins.... added the % difference between UT60 and Monsta from extreme systems site. All testing was done with one set of fans in push......using martins old site, I have added the number in parenthesis (+21%) to account for push / pull....no I doubt that figure is constant across all rpm's but it's all I got









@ 1,000 rpm :
Aphacool XT45 - 149 watts @ 10C (180)
Aphacool UT60 - 151 watts @ 10C (183)
Aphacool Monsta - 154 watts @ 10C (186)

@ 1,250 rpm : Phanteks fan speed *
Aphacool XT45 - 183 watts @ 10C (222)
Aphacool UT60 - 188 watts @ 10C (227)
Aphacool Monsta - 197 watts @ 10C (230)

@ 1,400 rpm :
Aphacool XT45 - 204 watts @ 10C (247)
Aphacool UT60 - 210 watts @ 10C (254)
Aphacool Monsta - 223 watts @ 10C (270)

@ 1,800 rpm :
Aphacool XT45 - 257 watts @ 10C (311)
Aphacool UT60 - 269 watts @ 10C (325)
Aphacool Monsta - 281 watts @ 10C (340)

@ 2,200 rpm :
Aphacool XT45 - 307 watts @ 10C (371)
Aphacool UT60 - 326 watts @ 10C (394)
Aphacool Monsta - 65 watts @ 10C (461)

* It is noted that the Phanteks fans are rated at 82.1 CFM @ 1.33mm H2O whereas if I'm guessing I picked the right Titan Kukri fan for what Martin used, these are rated at 66.62CFM @ 0.14 InchH₂O

If anyone finds it useful, the attached speadsheet gives estimated data for select Alphacool rads that might be considered for the Enthoo case. lotta assumptions in making the estimate as were described above.

Aquacool Estimator.XLS 28k .XLS file


Edited: Corrected error at 2200 rpm on Monsta


----------



## jassilamba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> Interesting data ..... while we are all sitting here wondering about rad thickness, I'm noticing adding thickness really doesn't have a lot of impact.
> 
> http://martinsliquidlab.org/2012/04/12/alphacool-nexxxos-ut60-360-radiator/4/
> http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?287200-Flower-Labs-News-Comparison-of-Radiator-Cooling-Efficiency
> http://martinsliquidlab.petrastech.com/Radiator-Fan-Orientation-And-Shroud-Testing-Review.html
> 
> I took the 45mm and 60mm 360 rads from Martins.... added the % difference between UT60 and Monsta from extreme systems site. All testing was done with one set of fans in push......using martins old site, I have added the number in parenthesis (+21%) to account for push / pull....no I doubt that figure is constant across all rpm's but it's all I got
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> @ 1,000 rpm :
> Aphacool XT45 - 149 watts @ 10C (180)
> Aphacool UT60 - 151 watts @ 10C (183)
> Aphacool Monsta - 154 watts @ 10C (186)
> 
> @ 1,250 rpm : Phanteks fan speed *
> Aphacool XT45 - 183 watts @ 10C (222)
> Aphacool UT60 - 188 watts @ 10C (227)
> Aphacool Monsta - 197 watts @ 10C (230)
> 
> @ 1,400 rpm :
> Aphacool XT45 - 204 watts @ 10C (247)
> Aphacool UT60 - 210 watts @ 10C (254)
> Aphacool Monsta - 223 watts @ 10C (270)
> 
> @ 1,800 rpm :
> Aphacool XT45 - 257 watts @ 10C (311)
> Aphacool UT60 - 269 watts @ 10C (325)
> Aphacool Monsta - 281 watts @ 10C (340)
> 
> @ 2,200 rpm :
> Aphacool XT45 - 307 watts @ 10C (371)
> Aphacool UT60 - 326 watts @ 10C (394)
> Aphacool Monsta - 381 watts @ 10C (461)
> 
> * It is noted that the Phanteks fans are rated at 82.1 CFM @ 1.33mm H2O whereas if I'm guessing I picked the right Titan Kukri fan for what Martin used, these are rated at 66.62CFM @ 0.14 InchH₂O
> 
> If anyone finds it useful, the attached speadsheet gives estimated data for select Alphacool rads that might be considered for the Enthoo case. lotta assumptions in making the estimate as were described above.
> 
> Aquacool Estimator.XLS 26k .XLS file


Great sheet mate, and the key factor that jumps out is FANS. fans make a lot of difference when it comes to performance on a radiator. And yes adding thickness does not add much to the cooling, but adding length does make a difference.

With that said, and a case like Enthoo, the bottom screams to have a monsta rad installed. Anything else will look out of place.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> I'm sure ya thought of putting the pump in the back in the pump pad and just running a tube back to it ? Would solve a lotta ya fit issues.


Yeah, definitely have thought of that, but I'll be using rigid acrylic tubing so doing the bends going to the pump and back seems like it would be a challenge, not sure it's one that I'd be able to pull off or not, plus it wouldn't be as clean of a loop as I had been mapping out with the res/pump combo. Rigid tubing also rules out any sort of quick disconnects.

I still have hope that I might be able to get the res in there with a fitting mounted into the top fill port that I can snake a hose from it to the top of the case. That would make filling easy peasy. I have ordered a smorgasbord of fittings I'm going to try to accomplish that with.

If that fails, and it seems likely to if only by just a few mm's, then I'll see if yanking a fan off of the top rad isn't doable every time I need to fill it, but I won't even be able to tell if that's going to be an option until I get the case. I might even see if there isn't some way to make quicker/easier mounting/removing that fan possible (velcro all the lower fans on the top rad in place? lol)

In any case. my plan to use that photon 270 D5 combo is not going down without a fight.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jassilamba*
> 
> Great sheet mate, and the key factor that jumps out is FANS. fans make a lot of difference when it comes to performance on a radiator. And yes adding thickness does not add much to the cooling, but adding length does make a difference.
> 
> With that said, and *a case like Enthoo, the bottom screams to have a monsta rad installed. Anything else will look out of place.*


*^ +1 this*


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jassilamba*
> 
> With that said, and a case like Enthoo, the bottom screams to have a monsta rad installed. Anything else will look out of place.


If I put a box the same size as monsta with fans on top will the screaming stop?


----------



## jassilamba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> If I put a box the same size as monsta with fans on top will the screaming stop?


Well technically there is no screaming, but yes you can use that area to house a small ITX build lol.

At the end of the day its about using what you have and making it look nice.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Yeah, definitely have thought of that, but I'll be using rigid acrylic tubing so doing the bends going to the pump and back seems like it would be a challenge, not sure it's one that I'd be able to pull off or not, plus it wouldn't be as clean of a loop as I had been mapping out with the res/pump combo. Rigid tubing also rules out any sort of quick disconnects. :


I'm using acrylic tubing also .... have a schematic ya can look at in Post 518

Not sure why rigid tubing rules out a quick disconnect ?

Rigid tube -> Compression Fitting -> Male QD Ftting ....... then the detachable (store in a drawer) part is Female QD Fitting -> Compression Fitting -> 2-3' Flex tube


----------



## bond32

Man I need to get this case in... like now. Don't see many yellow themed builds out there, got my primochill primoflex tubing in (yellow). Normally I dont care for the primoflex as it is rather stiff, but I made an exception since I liked the yellow. Also have a cheap blue led strip coming so I will slap a molex on it. My 780 lightning card has rather bright blue led's on the VRM and MSI logo so I am somewhat forced into the blue/yellow options.

Any other ideas for yellow stuff? I have some yellow LED's for my raystorm cpu block also.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> I'm using acrylic tubing also .... have a schematic ya can look at in Post 518
> 
> *Not sure why rigid tubing rules out a quick disconnect ?*
> 
> Rigid tube -> Compression Fitting -> Male QD Ftting ....... then the detachable (store in a drawer) part is Female QD Fitting -> Compression Fitting -> 2-3' Flex tube


See the discussion here:
http://www.overclock.net/t/1388300/acrylic-pipebending-101/670#post_20938389

i've not used them, but my take away from that was that QDs need a bit of twist/flex to connect/disconnect & or 'eject' themselves when disconnecting, any of which isn't possible with rigid tubing as it would likely break it.


----------



## jassilamba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> Man I need to get this case in... like now. Don't see many yellow themed builds out there, got my primochill primoflex tubing in (yellow). Normally I dont care for the primoflex as it is rather stiff, but I made an exception since I liked the yellow. Also have a cheap blue led strip coming so I will slap a molex on it. My 780 lightning card has rather bright blue led's on the VRM and MSI logo so I am somewhat forced into the blue/yellow options.
> 
> Any other ideas for yellow stuff? I have some yellow LED's for my raystorm cpu block also.


Replace the LED in the power button to yellow, along with the HDD activity LED.

You can also look at Akasa fans, they have some really nice PWM fans with yellow blades, and black shourds.
Paint the plate on the Raystorm to yellow as well.
Blue LEDs behind the motherboard.

Those are just few I can think off.


----------



## Roxycon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> Man I need to get this case in... like now. Don't see many yellow themed builds out there, got my primochill primoflex tubing in (yellow). Normally I dont care for the primoflex as it is rather stiff, but I made an exception since I liked the yellow. Also have a cheap blue led strip coming so I will slap a molex on it. My 780 lightning card has rather bright blue led's on the VRM and MSI logo so I am somewhat forced into the blue/yellow options.
> 
> Any other ideas for yellow stuff? I have some yellow LED's for my raystorm cpu block also.


----------



## bond32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jassilamba*
> 
> Replace the LED in the power button to yellow, along with the HDD activity LED.
> 
> You can also look at Akasa fans, they have some really nice PWM fans with yellow blades, and black shourds.
> Paint the plate on the Raystorm to yellow as well.
> Blue LEDs behind the motherboard.
> 
> Those are just few I can think off.


Good ideas... Not much of a painter. But I do like those fans...


----------



## Hereisphilly

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> Good ideas... Not much of a painter. But I do like those fans...


If you got your hands on an MSI mpower board then it would look boss!


----------



## bond32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hereisphilly*
> 
> If you got your hands on an MSI mpower board then it would look boss!


I do! It looks fantastic paired with the lightning, although the lightning is so gigantic it steals the show. Also both have the same LED (blue) so they look great together. Only issue so far is matching to these. The blue LED's that I have with my XSPC kit aren't near the same shade blue and they don't match at all. The yellow LED's I have look better but still not quite what I was hoping for. I think once it is all in the case the yellow tubing will look fantastic.


----------



## jassilamba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> I do! It looks fantastic paired with the lightning, although the lightning is so gigantic it steals the show. Also both have the same LED (blue) so they look great together. Only issue so far is matching to these. The blue LED's that I have with my XSPC kit aren't near the same shade blue and they don't match at all. The yellow LED's I have look better but still not quite what I was hoping for. I think once it is all in the case the yellow tubing will look fantastic.


Either get some yellow and black cable extensions, or sleeve them. And you are done.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jassilamba*
> 
> Great sheet mate, and the key factor that jumps out is FANS. fans make a lot of difference when it comes to performance on a radiator. And yes adding thickness does not add much to the cooling, but adding length does make a difference.
> 
> With that said, and a case like Enthoo, the bottom screams to have a monsta rad installed. Anything else will look out of place.


Feel free to add / use / link it to your FAQ .... my biggest worry though is just how much extra cooling can we expect from push / pull ...... that 21% figure is based upon the 9.2C to 7.6C drop which is 21% temperature wise but does it hold up watts wise ? .... I dunno

But while the Monsta certainly looks impressive, I wanted to use the opening thru the PSU wall for the tubing.... and I believe the Monsta blocks that in push pull. With the Enthoo's fans .... we picking up just 10 extra watts of cooling over a UT60 280 (216 versus 206) ....so looks aside, I dunno whether 10 watts is worth losing that access opening.

With 145 for an OC'd 4770k, 275 (estimated*) each for twin 770s and 40 watts for MoBo VRM and MOFSETS , I'll need 735 watts of cooling . Options, assuming my calcs are correct:

Top @ 1250 rpm
*1. XT45-420 in push / pull (309)*
2. UT60-420 in pull (262)
3. XT45-480 in push / pull (296)

Bottom @ 1250 rpm
*4. UT60-280 in push / pull (206)*
5. Monsta 280 in push / pull (216)
6. UT60-480 in push / pull (244)

The Monsta on bottom only gives me an extra 10 watts....the 480 on bottom gives me only 38 watts and kills the cage area. Since 1 and 4 only give me 515 watts (220 short), I can either go to 1800 rpm where 1. becomes 295 and 4 becomes 443 (738 total).....or add a front 240 Rad..... (Neither Phanteks site, manual nor Modzoo indicates a thickness limitation here) but looking at the video (which shows HD cages left in place) it looks like routing the tubes would be a PITA.... (not that I need bottom cage).

Jesse questions:

A. What is the space between the Front fans and HD cages ? (Looking to see what rads or rads + 140 x 120 Shrouds would fit)
B. Can the Top and Bottom fans be moved to the side ? I know Rad can't go there w/o losing HD cages bit looks like fans will mount. Buying 10 new 1800's would at least allow me to still use the two 140mm Phanteks fans for case cooling.

One thing I just noticed. The Enthoo doesn't have the usual round grommeted case rear cutouts for external rads .... was considering and external Rad (3 x 3 x 120) w/ four 180m fans but then lookd at the rear pic and was surprised they weren't there.

*Anyone have a source for calculating TDP of overclocked GFX cards ?

Edited to add MoBo wattage


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Read that....still don't get it..... he is correct when he ways you need to be able to twist it ..... buy ya only need to twist one end. In the instances I have given, you have one end free..... most times it sits in a drawer. You certainly can use standard Bitspower compression fittings with rigid tube ..... they say so in the article you linked to and here's an example:

http://rog.asus.com/forum/showthread.php?33364-Maximus-VI-Formula-Show-Casemod-MbK

And these have the same ends as all the other Bitspower fittings:

Bitspower Matte Black Quick-Disconnected Male w/ Inner G1/4 (BP-MBQDMIG14)
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/17966/ex-tub-1636/Bitspower_Matte_Black_Quick-Disconnected_Male_w_Inner_G14_BP-MBQDMIG14.html

Bitspower Matte Black Quick-Disconnected Female w/ G1/4 Thread (BP-MBQDFG14)
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/17965/ex-tub-1635/Bitspower_Matte_Black_Quick-Disconnected_Female_w_G14_Thread_BP-MBQDFG14.html

On the drain, the male end is connected to your rigid tubing..... the female end is connected to cupla feet of flex tubing and sits in a drawer until ya wanna drain. When ya wanna use it, just twist the female end on and off ....as the free tube can rotate with the QD fitting, should be no problem.

On the fill end, the male end is connected to your rigid tubing..... the female end is connected toa 90 bend and sits in a drawer until ya wanna fill. When ya wanna use it, just twist the female end on and off ....as the 90 degree fitting can rotate with the QD fitting, should be no problem.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

For those planning a new 1150 build once the Enthoo ships, just got word from Indigo Xtreme .... their new Precision Engineered Thermal Interface (ETI) for 1150 socket CPUs will start shipping in about two weeks .... they just waiting to complete instructions and documentation.

http://www.frozencpu.com/cat/l3/g/c127/s1707/list/p1/b174/Indigo_Xtreme-Thermal_Interface_Materials-Indigo_Xtreme_ETI-Page1.html


----------



## Gabrielzm

Newegg just updated the release date for the Enthoo Primo. one week from now. Since it was as today the 14th of October looks like this time is for real?

I can only wish...


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> For those planning a new 1150 build once the Enthoo ships, just got word from Indigo Xtreme .... their new Precision Engineered Thermal Interface (ETI) for 1150 socket CPUs will start shipping in about two weeks .... they just waiting to complete instructions and documentation.
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/cat/l3/g/c127/s1707/list/p1/b174/Indigo_Xtreme-Thermal_Interface_Materials-Indigo_Xtreme_ETI-Page1.html
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Does this roundup pre-date CooLabs Liquid products? Also, if it was on their, wouldn't it be between Indigo Xtreme & everything else?

(I love indigo extreme, but damn is reflow a nerve wracking pita)


----------



## bond32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Newegg just updated the release date for the Enthoo Primo. one week from now. Since it was as today the 14th of October looks like this time is for real?
> 
> I can only wish...


Wait so they say they are releasing the 14th?because that's still sooner than anything from Phanteks themselves... Unless they ship out tomorrow or Saturday, Newegg would have the same release/ship date?


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Newegg just updated the release date for the Enthoo Primo. one week from now. Since it was as today the 14th of October looks like this time is for real?
> 
> I can only wish...


I ordered it.......can't keep bothering Jesse asking for dimensions.

BTW, anyone have any good suggestions on RAM sources for my Enthoo build ? ..... Seems newegg is out of almost everything above 1866.

After reading this:

http://www.anandtech.com/show/7364/memory-scaling-on-haswell

Based upon their testing, It seems anything from 2666 on up not only offers diminishing returns but actually performs worse than 2133 / 2400 in many cases. Their pricing page also shows little price difference between 1600 and 2133 / 2400..... tho I'm remembering pre-fire 1866 @ $130 .... now $165 ish .... 2133 is in $190-$220 category and 2400
I'm leaning towards either "

Mushkin Redline
9-11-11-28 ..... 9/2133 x 1000 = 4.21 (1.65)
10-12-12-28.....10/2400 x 1000 = 4.16 (1.65)

Cosair Vengeance Pro
11-11-11-27.....11/2133 x 1000 = 5.16 (1.50)
10-12-12-31.....10/2400 x 1000 = 4.16 (1.65)

Corsair Dominator Platinuim
9-11-11-31.......9/2133 x 1000 = 4.21 (1.65)
10-12-12-31.....10/2400 x 1000 = 4.16 (1.65)

Mushkin has the slight spec edge with the last timing. Not decided on whether to do 16 GB or 32 as yet. Don't need 32 but was thinking of using most of it utilizing the RAMdisk feature on the Maximus VI Extreme.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Does this roundup pre-date CooLabs Liquid products? Also, if it was on their, wouldn't it be between Indigo Xtreme & everything else?


Dunno ....skinnelabs been down for quite a while,now. Everything I found on CoolLabs was 2010 and earlier.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> Wait so they say they are releasing the 14th?because that's still sooner than anything from Phanteks themselves... Unless they ship out tomorrow or Saturday, Newegg would have the same release/ship date?


Earlier yesterday I check and was still marked releasing 14/10/2013. Latter that day they updated the site to 17/10/2013. So...If they bother to update the site and for just a few days ahead (14 to 17) seems like they might get the case soon...Any news from Phanteks people (those who order from them)?


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Earlier yesterday I check and was still marked releasing 14/10/2013. Latter that day they updated the site to 17/10/2013. So...If they bother to update the site and for just a few days ahead (14 to 17) seems like they might get the case soon...Any news from Phanteks people (those who order from them)?


Phanteks has not tried contacting me about my preorder since the email notification went out on Sept 13 letting us know that their scheduled ship date had been moved back to Oct 18. I asked about it 7 days ago in their forum and the Phanteks rep/moderator there said as far as he knew Oct 18 was still the day and assured us that those who had pre-ordered the case through them would be the very first cases to ship before they got sent to retailers like Newegg.

Newegg seems to just be jumping the gun with their availability date. (on purpose?) They went from Oct 14 to now saying Oct 17, which is still before Phanteks has said they will begin shipping them out. Unless they know something we don't (which with them moving their date back makes me suspect they don't) the Oct 18 date seems the safest bet so far.


----------



## doyll

I expect Phanteks to be shipping pre-order buyers their cases on the 18th and that the first people to receive their cases will be the Phanteks pre-ordered ones. I've had dealings with Phanteks sales and service several times sense they first released the PH-TC14PE cooler and have never been told anything but the truth. They say what they mean and do what they say.. and if they can't they keep us informed of what is going on. Their letting us know each time there have been delays in release date of Enthoo Primo is a perfect example of their honesty and great customer service.

And no, I do not work for Phanteks.








I just believe in giving credit where credit is due.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Newegg seems to just be jumping the gun with their availability date. (on purpose?) They went from Oct 14 to now saying Oct 17, which is still before Phanteks has said they will begin shipping them out. Unless they know something we don't (which with them moving their date back makes me suspect they don't) the Oct 18 date seems the safest bet so far.


Or meybe newegg got spanked by Phanteks after they rec'd complaints from pre-order folks on Phanteks site. Happens all the time w/ NDAs, new model specs, and new releases.


----------



## doyll

Indeed JackNaylorPE. Think you hit the proverbial nail.


----------



## jassilamba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> Feel free to add / use / link it to your FAQ .... my biggest worry though is just how much extra cooling can we expect from push / pull ...... that 21% figure is based upon the 9.2C to 7.6C drop which is 21% temperature wise but does it hold up watts wise ? .... I dunno
> 
> But while the Monsta certainly looks impressive, I wanted to use the opening thru the PSU wall for the tubing.... and I believe the Monsta blocks that in push pull. With the Enthoo's fans .... we picking up just 10 extra watts of cooling over a UT60 280 (216 versus 206) ....so looks aside, I dunno whether 10 watts is worth losing that access opening.
> 
> With 145 for an OC'd 4770k and 275 (estimated*) each for twin 770s, I'll need 695 watts of cooling . Options, assuming my calcs are correct:
> 
> Top @ 1250 rpm
> *1. XT45-420 in push / pull (309)*
> 2. UT60-420 in pull (262)
> 3. XT45-480 in push / pull (296)
> 
> Bottom @ 1250 rpm
> *4. UT60-280 in push / pull (206)*
> 5. Monsta 280 in push / pull (216)
> 6. UT60-480 in push / pull (244)
> 
> The Monsta on bottom only gives me an extra 10 watts....the 480 on bottom gives me only 38 watts and kills the cage area. Since 1 and 4 only give me 515 watts (180 short), I can either go to 1800 rpm where 1. becomes 295 and 4 becomes 443 (738 total).....or add a front 240 Rad..... (Neither Phanteks site, manual nor Modzoo indicates a thickness limitation here) but looking at the video (which shows HD cages left in place) it looks like routing the tubes would be a PITA.... (not that I need bottom cage).
> 
> Jesse questions:
> 
> A. What is the space between the Front fans and HD cages ? (Looking to see what rads or rads + 140 x 120 Shrouds would fit)
> B. Can the Top and Bottom fans be moved to the side ? I know Rad can't go there w/o losing HD cages bit looks like fans will mount. Buying 10 new 1800's would at least allow me to still use the two 140mm Phanteks fans for case cooling.
> 
> One thing I just noticed. The Enthoo doesn't have the usual round grommeted case rear cutouts for external rads .... was considering and external Rad (3 x 3 x 120) w/ four 180m fans but then lookd at the rear pic and was surprised they weren't there.
> 
> *Anyone have a source for calculating TDP of overclocked GFX cards ?


Just saw your post mate, and I will get you the numbers once I get home. Feel free to ask as much as you want.


----------



## Roxycon

Got my problem kinda sorted, guys at overclockers ment my payment got freezed and is in a reserved space from my bank account and i should get them beack in three days









got the case pre ordered for a norwegian site instead, just stupid of me not checking them in forehand







but the price was lower here considering the shipping from uk


----------



## doyll

Glad you got it sorted Roxycon.









I couldn't help as I didn't order from OcUK.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Great to hear we are on schedule for the 18th. It been a long wait since I pre-order.

Cheers


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jassilamba*
> 
> Just saw your post mate, and I will get you the numbers once I get home. Feel free to ask as much as you want.


Thanks .... but you should never have included that second sentence...... I'll be trying to drag your tail over to my house when it arrives, so I can watch you build it







. need a Long Island / NYC / Hamptons vacation ?

If while ya in there..... what is the vertical clearance with lower HD cage removed ? I'm trying to fit on of these (hopefully on pump sled .... though i expect I'll need to fab a mounting plate)

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/16233/ex-pmp-195/Swiftech_MCP35x2_Dual_Pump_Heatsink_MCP35X2-HS.html#blank



If not, meybe I can screw the legs to the MoBo tray (PSU chamber width?)

When I get this thing, I'm gonna CAD up all the dimensions and post .... will send ya a copy for ya site.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

BTW, the Phantek's fans can now be bought ion newegg:

My guess is they have the cases sitting in the warehouse .... prolly came on same truck .... but waiting for Phanteks tro satisfy their customers first.

Phanteks PH-F140SP_BK 140mm Case Fan - $18.00
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835709023

Phanteks PH-F140SP_BK_BLED 140mm Blue LED Case Fan - $20.00
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835709024

No sign of the PCB doohickeys, SSD Mounts or any other case accessories.

Interestingly enough, I been looking at 1800 rpm 140mm fans for the Rads. Anyone have suggestions ? Looked a t quite a few so far but most of these 1800 rpm jobs can't match the 82 cfm / 1.33 SP stats of the Phanteks.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

I'd like to control radiator fan speeds using the three 4 pin PWM headers on the Maximus VI Extreme MoBo and the three thermal input sensors tied to them. I need to buy the sensors tho which I am informed are standard 10k ohm thermistors

These work ? (unfortunately no datra oin frozen site)

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/10373/ex-tub-620/Bitspower_G_14_Temperature_Sensor_Stop_Fitting_-_Matte_Black_BP-MBWP-CT.html?tl=g30c229s579

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/10767/cab-195/FrozenCPU_Temperature_Probe_Cable_-_2-Pin_-_25.html?tl=g30c229s579

Something like this would be nice for all those empty drive bays .... Display Rad Temp In / Out .... not really useful I think for overall loop control but would add a little bling to the empty space and would be able to immediately determine effect of fan speed increases.

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/12327/bus-246/XSPC_525_Bay_Temperature_Sensor_Dual_Display_Mount_BAYSENS.html?tl=g30c229s579

I imagine however..... for each Rad, you'd need:

-One Inlet Sensor to LCD
-One Outlet Sensor to LCD
-One Sensor for fan speed.


----------



## jassilamba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> Thanks .... but you should never have included that second sentence...... I'll be trying to drag your tail over to my house when it arrives, so I can watch you build it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . need a Long Island / NYC / Hamptons vacation ?
> 
> If while ya in there..... what is the vertical clearance with lower HD cage removed ? I'm trying to fit on of these (hopefully on pump sled .... though i expect I'll need to fab a mounting plate)
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/16233/ex-pmp-195/Swiftech_MCP35x2_Dual_Pump_Heatsink_MCP35X2-HS.html#blank
> 
> 
> 
> If not, meybe I can screw the legs to the MoBo tray (PSU chamber width?)
> 
> When I get this thing, I'm gonna CAD up all the dimensions and post .... will send ya a copy for ya site.


NYC hah, used to live in Queens, and honestly do not miss the area anymore haha. But like I said keep the questions coming, and since I'm home time to get some numbers for you.

Edit: Your last question, well there is actually 170mm of vertical clearance with the lower HDD cage removed.

Edit # 2:

Your first question - See the 3rd bullet point in the FAQ - http://themodzoo.com/forum/index.php?/page/articles.html/_/reviews/cases/phanteks-enthoo-primo-full-tower-review-r67?pg=8

Your second question - Yes you can mount the fans in the side panel. There is only support for 120 or 240 rad, but for just fans, you can move the 140 fans to the side.


----------



## chrisnyc75

Jesse, could you please tell me the exact dimensions of the side panel door? It's obviously a few inches smaller than the full dimensions of the case, right?

Thanks!!


----------



## jassilamba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chrisnyc75*
> 
> Jesse, could you please tell me the exact dimensions of the side panel door? It's obviously a few inches smaller than the full dimensions of the case, right?
> 
> Thanks!!


Here you go, and yes its a bit smaller.
21.875" (21 7/8) W X 22" H


----------



## chrisnyc75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jassilamba*
> 
> Here you go, and yes its a bit smaller.
> 21.875" (21 7/8) W X 22" H


Perfect









Yes, I know it's an obscure question, but because of space constraints in my nyc apartment, my pc goes in a specific spot and clearance to its left is limited. I had to be sure the door would clear the allowance when it swings open before I pulled the trigger on pre-ordering. Thanks for the quick response, you da man!









btw, it ONLY swings open from the back (hinging in the front), right?


----------



## jassilamba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chrisnyc75*
> 
> Perfect
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yes, I know it's an obscure question, but because of space constraints in my nyc apartment, my pc goes in a specific spot and clearance to its left is limited. I had to be sure the door would clear the allowance when it swings open before I pulled the trigger on pre-ordering. Thanks for the quick response, you da man!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> btw, it ONLY swings open from the back (hinging in the front), right?


Sorry, but there are no hinges in the door. The panel is help in place by 2 thumb screws in the back, and you take it out by sliding it back and out.


----------



## Roxycon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jassilamba*
> 
> Sorry, but there are no hinges in the door. The panel is help in place by 2 thumb screws in the back, and you take it out by sliding it back and out.


Hopefully the only thing ill be missing from my cosmos 2









Would you say the quality is as good as the doors on the switch 810?


----------



## jassilamba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roxycon*
> 
> Hopefully the only thing ill be missing from my cosmos 2
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Would you say the quality is as good as the doors on the switch 810?


WAY BETTER than the switch 810, and I have that case as well.


----------



## Roxycon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jassilamba*
> 
> WAY BETTER than the switch 810, and I have that case as well.


Nice







just hoping it wont feel like a sidegrade


----------



## jassilamba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roxycon*
> 
> Nice
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> just hoping it wont feel like a sidegrade


I have owned a 810, and honestly the quality on this case is worth the price. The front is made with real aluminum panels and not plastic. And even the plastic used is of high quality. You will find a lot of similarities but the Enthoo takes the best of all the cases and allows for a great build.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jassilamba*
> 
> NYC hah, used to live in Queens, and honestly do not miss the area anymore haha. But like I said keep the questions coming, and since I'm home time to get some numbers for you.


I used to be a caretaker in a summer camp in Huntington.... during my college years .... took care of Ballet Studio .... best job I ever had... me an 700 girls in tights







I used to go visit them at Ballet Academy on Queens Blvd
Quote:


> Edit: Your last question, well there is actually 170mm of vertical clearance with the lower HDD cage removed.


6.67 inches should be plenty of room ...Pump w/ Base can't be more than 3.5" - 4.5" high. Now my only worry is fitting the Aqualis Res on the mounting Bracket.
Quote:


> Your first question - See the 3rd bullet point in the FAQ - http://themodzoo.com/forum/index.php?/page/articles.html/_/reviews/cases/phanteks-enthoo-primo-full-tower-review-r67?pg=8


Damn, skimmed that thing twice looking .... guess i was more tired than I thot
Quote:


> Your second question - Yes you can mount the fans in the side panel. There is only support for 120 or 240 rad, but for just fans, you can move the 140 fans to the side.


Coolio..... was just thinking ..... you have 16 fans blowing in ....and the one rear blowing out (PSU cancels itself out w/ 1 in and 1 out) .... are the side panels ballooning yet ? That case really needs a complete grille left panel option.


----------



## Roxycon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jassilamba*
> 
> I have owned a 810, and honestly the quality on this case is worth the price. The front is made with real aluminum panels and not plastic. And even the plastic used is of high quality. You will find a lot of similarities but the Enthoo takes the best of all the cases and allows for a great build.


High qulity plastic, lol got promised that with the vanilla phantom..







im sure this is better though

With the bottom monsta in push pull, do you think there is enough space to insert two bitspower passthrough's and two 45degree bits up to the videocards above the fan?


----------



## jassilamba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> I used to be a caretaker in a summer camp in Huntington.... during my college years .... took care of Ballet Studio .... best job I ever had... me an 700 girls in tights
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I used to go visit them at Ballet Academy on Queens Blvd
> 6.67 inches should be plenty of room ...Pump w/ Base can't be more than 3.5" - 4.5" high. Now my only worry is fitting the Aqualis Res on the mounting Bracket.
> Damn, skimmed that thing twice looking .... guess i was more tired than I thot
> Coolio..... was just thinking ..... you have 16 fans blowing in ....and the one rear blowing out (PSU cancels itself out w/ 1 in and 1 out) .... are the side panels ballooning yet ? That case really needs a complete grille left panel option.


Depends on what gpu(s) you plan on using. The mounting bracket for the aqualis pump combo is too big and does not fit in the bracket.

The way my case is set up the lower read pulls the air in. I also get air in from the front. The top and the rear fans are set as exhaust. This way I have positive pressure in Mt case that keeps dust low.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jassilamba*
> 
> Depends on what gpu(s) you plan on using. The mounting bracket for the aqualis pump combo is too big and does not fit in the bracket.
> 
> The way my case is set up the lower read pulls the air in. I also get air in from the front. The top and the rear fans are set as exhaust. This way I have positive pressure in Mt case that keeps dust low.


I'm not using the combo .... using the Swiftech 35x2 , which thanks to your measurements will be placed on the pump skid after then lower HD cage is removed.

Wish there was a source for dimensions on all these components .... make sit damn hard to plan anything.

I had assumed that you had set up both top and bottom rads to pull air in (16 fans) + the two in the front .... leaving only the rear blowing out.


----------



## jassilamba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> I'm not using the combo .... using the Swiftech 35x2 , which thanks to your measurements will be placed on the pump skid after then lower HD cage is removed.
> 
> Wish there was a source for dimensions on all these components .... make sit damn hard to plan anything.
> 
> I had assumed that you had set up both top and bottom rads to pull air in (16 fans) + the two in the front .... leaving only the rear blowing out.


Did you see how I ended up mounting the aqualis pump combo installed in the 5.25" bay area? No but the reason I asked the question was because the Aqualis is 75mm wide compared to the standard 60, and that might interfere a bit with longer GPUs. I really wanted to the Photon 270 but had space issues with my Titans.

For our reviews, we only get the case, the hardware is all mine, and I did not want to put in a 480 on the top as with a 360 Rad up top, and the top mesh cover removed, I have easy access to the fill port.

Feel free to ask for any other dimensions, and also feel free to stop by the modzoo.com and check out other reviews as well, or just show us some love.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roxycon*
> 
> High qulity plastic, lol got promised that with the vanilla phantom..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> im sure this is better though
> 
> With the bottom monsta in push pull, do you think there is enough space to insert two bitspower passthrough's and two 45degree bits up to the videocards above the fan?


Are you talking about the area where the mobo tray becomes a shroud? I guess I'm not sure what exactly are you wanting to know?


----------



## Hereisphilly

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jassilamba*
> 
> Feel free to ask for any other dimensions, and also feel free to stop by the modzoo.com and check out other reviews as well, or just show us some love.


Your review is what brought me to The Mod Zoo, and now I can't stay away, stellar reviews all round and the atmosphere is great!


----------



## Roxycon

Yes where it becomes a shroud, is it enough space to install two passthrough's?


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jassilamba*
> 
> Did you see how I ended up mounting the aqualis pump combo installed in the 5.25" bay area? No but the reason I asked the question was because the Aqualis is 75mm wide compared to the standard 60, and that might interfere a bit with longer GPUs. I really wanted to the Photon 270 but had space issues with my Titans.


Yes....I thought I might fabricate some L brackets mount them on the res and affix the Res to the L brackies ....apply some carbon fiber applique to the Phanteks and my brackets ... I'm not even thinking about that till I get the case ....
Quote:


> For our reviews, we only get the case, the hardware is all mine, and I did not want to put in a 480 on the top as with a 360 Rad up top, and the top mesh cover removed, I have easy access to the fill port.


I couldn't tell from the pics.... so ya got 14 rad fans blowing in, 2 in the front and 1 blowing out ..... over time case sides gonna look like pot belly stove









That was one of the reasons I went with the 420 up top.... 1) to use the Phanteks fans and 2) to have room for fill port
Quote:


> Feel free to ask for any other dimensions, and also feel free to stop by the modzoo.com and check out other reviews as well, or just show us some love


.

Been there, posted too


----------



## ModernAfro

if not already posted....

http://www.computerbase.de/artikel/gehaeuse-und-kuehlung/2013/phanteks-enthoo-primo-im-test/


----------



## Roxycon

The UPS man almost dropped my wc gear for the enthoo on the ground







Those 480's are big and heavy, can't say i look forward to transporting the case to a lan


----------



## bond32

This wait is killing me...
BTW Newegg's "release date" still says oct 17... I won't be a happy camper if I find it was faster (and cheaper) to order from newegg.


----------



## doyll

Phanteks pre-orders will receive cases before anyone else.
I believe Phanteks.


----------



## 6steven9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> This wait is killing me...
> BTW Newegg's "release date" still says oct 17... I won't be a happy camper if I find it was faster (and cheaper) to order from newegg.


it was the 14 they pushed it back and probably will continue to push it back till all phanteks pre-orders are done any other retailers probably won't get the case till at the end of october at the very soonest


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roxycon*
> 
> The UPS man almost dropped my wc gear for the enthoo on the ground
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Those 480's are big and heavy, can't say i look forward to transporting the case to a lan


Oh....it's probably worse than you imagine. I just flat out refuse to pick mine up again. It's actually even pretty hard to drag across the floor now. I was pretty shocked by the final weight, even coming out of a Fractal Define XL didn't prepare me.


----------



## Roxycon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Oh....it's probably worse than you imagine. I just flat out refuse to pick mine up again. It's actually even pretty hard to drag across the floor now. I was pretty shocked by the final weight, even coming out of a Fractal Define XL didn't prepare me.


Oh and with me not commited enough for the gym


----------



## JackNaylorPE

I wanna run a separate PSU for pump and fan cooler. Why ?

1. To fill the loops w/o turning System PSU on
2. To allow pump to run for few minutes after system shutdown
3. Option....to control fan speed w/ controller and maybe even allow rad fans (0.14 amps each) to run after shutdown.

Mini 5 amp PSU - http://www.frozencpu.com/products/9106/bus-192/AC_to_DC_Adapter_-_110V_AC_to_12V_DC_Converter_w_Standard_4_Pin_5000mA_Max.html
Molex Splitter - http://www.frozencpu.com/products/19357/cab-1486/Akasa_4-Pin_Molex_Y_Cable_Splitter_AK-PW-Y-20.html
Fan Controller - http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=36265

Doing the math ..... the 35x2 uses max of 3 amps ... leaves 2 amps for fans if do Option 3 .... or 14 fans .... I will have 10 fans on the 420 / 280....so shud be ok

Controller will Display:

Top Radiator In - - - - - Bottom Radiator In - - - - - Ambient Room Air
****************No Fan Control for these sensors********************

Top Radiator Out - - - - Bottom Radiator Out - - - - Case Interior Temps
Controls Top 6 Fans - Controls Bottom 4 fans - - Controls Case Fans

Why ? ...... Like anything else ..... Cause it's Interesting idea and would be fun









Questions / Input Requested:

1. Suggestion for case interior temp sensor

2. Suggestions for ambient air sensor and where to put it

3. Mounting Suggestions for mini-PSU.

4. Option 1 - Suggestions for aesthetically matching switch for Enthoo to turn off mini-PSU

5. Option 2 - Suggestions for some kind of auto timer thingie that would either sense the system shutdown and turn off feed from mini-PSU say 10 minutes later or that I could push when i shut system down it would initiate timer.


----------



## doyll

I'm going to "engineer" a caster base for mine. Will also give better airflow to bottom radiator. Ordered 20 40mm casters.. Will look like something Mega Movers use.







That's one place I think Phanteks goofed.. only the little slit vent on each side of bottom to supply air for bottom fans.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> I wanna run a separate PSU for pump and fan cooler. Why ?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 1. To fill the loops w/o turning System PSU on
> 2. To allow pump to run for few minutes after system shutdown
> 3. Option....to control fan speed w/ controller and maybe even allow rad fans (0.14 amps each) to run after shutdown.
> 
> Mini 5 amp PSU - http://www.frozencpu.com/products/9106/bus-192/AC_to_DC_Adapter_-_110V_AC_to_12V_DC_Converter_w_Standard_4_Pin_5000mA_Max.html
> Molex Splitter - http://www.frozencpu.com/products/19357/cab-1486/Akasa_4-Pin_Molex_Y_Cable_Splitter_AK-PW-Y-20.html
> Fan Controller - http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=36265
> 
> Doing the math ..... the 35x2 uses max of 3 amps ... leaves 2 amps for fans if do Option 3 .... or 14 fans .... I will have 10 fans on the 420 / 280....so shud be ok
> 
> 
> 
> Controller will Display:
> 
> Top Radiator In - - - - - Bottom Radiator In - - - - - Ambient Room Air
> ****************No Fan Control for these sensors********************
> 
> Top Radiator Out - - - - Bottom Radiator Out - - - - Case Interior Temps
> Controls Top 6 Fans - Controls Bottom 4 fans - - Controls Case Fans
> 
> Why ? ...... Like anything else ..... Cause it's Interesting idea and would be fun
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Questions / Input Requested:
> 
> 1. Suggestion for case interior temp sensor
> 
> 2. Suggestions for ambient air sensor and where to put it
> 
> 3. Mounting Suggestions for mini-PSU.
> 
> 4. Option 1 - Suggestions for aesthetically matching switch for Enthoo to turn off mini-PSU
> 
> 5. Option 2 - Suggestions for some kind of auto timer thingie that would either sense the system shutdown and turn off feed from mini-PSU say 10 minutes later or that I could push when i shut system down it would initiate timer.


you could also just jump your current PSU w/ a little wire. green to black.


I like the idea, but I feel like I need to state that your/any system will have little need for it. Components cool off in a matter of seconds once the system is shut down. That being said "need" is a silly word, especially on OCN.









i would recommend an IR gun for ambient temps out side of the case, as for inside of the case, I would stash it close to one of your rad's, just not the exhaust side.

ohhh, you are looking to run a second PSU ALL the time for your water cooling components... That's a different story.

ouch, LAN party systems are supposed to be small, I couldn't imagine toting around my tri-sli tri-rad tri-monitor computer to lan events. It literally fills up the entire back seat and trunk of my car.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> you could also just jump your current PSU w/ a little wire. green to black.


Yeah, do that on every build but I certainly don't wanna be messing with my carefully hidden cables and risk busting a rigid tube outta its fitting when wrestling to get the 24 pin plug out.
Quote:


> I like the idea, but I feel like I need to state that your/any system will have little need for it. Components cool off in a matter of seconds once the system is shut down. That being said "need" is a silly word, especially on OCN.


Agreed ..... but .....

1. It's a given that the PSU will be there for reason stated above.

2. I will already have the temp monitor set up (well assuming Phanteks starts shipping the Fan ) as i will need 3
Quote:


> i would recommend an IR gun for ambient temps out side of the case, as for inside of the case,


I don't want it in my head.... I wanna read it on the screen







..... Logging all these is under consideration :0
Quote:


> I would stash it close to one of your rad's, just not the exhaust side.


Well the intake side is inaccessible and out for obvious reasons....top ones are outside case in the "attic"
Quote:


> ohhh, you are looking to run a second PSU ALL the time for your water cooling components... That's a different story.


Yes....







..... acrylic tubing, reservoirs, tie down cables..... don't wanna move all that every time I do sustem maintenance.
Quote:


> ouch, LAN party systems are supposed to be small, I couldn't imagine toting around my tri-sli tri-rad tri-monitor computer to lan events. It literally fills up the entire back seat and trunk of my car.


What's a LAN party .... that's what laptops are for


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> I'm going to "engineer" a caster base for mine. Will also give better airflow to bottom radiator. Ordered 20 40mm casters.. Will look like something Mega Movers use.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's one place I think Phanteks goofed.. only the little slit vent on each side of bottom to supply air for bottom fans.


The whole bottom is opened up to supply air to fans, not just through the slits on the sides.



That, besides through those vents along the bottom on the front and sides of the case, also lets air come from all around through the gap at the very bottom of the case from the rubber feet (unless it's placed on carpet or something obstructing that gap), and through the the back where they opened it up a bit.



That said, somewhat similar to what you're going to do, I plan on making a little rolling cabinet the same length+width of the case about 6" tall that I will mount the case to so it can be moved around when needed. Just like the one I made for my Cosmo 2 it will be painted black to match the case and house one long drawer that pulls out from the front to store extra parts, software CDs, etc, everything that I like to always keep with the computer, and will roll around on a set of extra large 3"(75mm) desk chair casters.


----------



## skupples

Edit: Nevermind, that won't solve the keeping a second PSU running after the 1st one shut's off. Derp.

www.add2psu.com


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> [..]
> 3. Option....to control fan speed w/ controller and maybe even allow rad fans (0.14 amps each) to run after shutdown.
> 
> [...]
> Fan Controller - http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=36265
> [...]


Buttons on that look to stick out quite a bit when in the 'out' position. Are you sure they will clear the front door on the Enthoo Primo?

I guess if they don't you could always slide it back a bit further into the case & maybe have to drill new mounting holes in the sides, but that might not look so hot. I ran into the same thing with the sliding door on my Cosmo 2, a lot of 5.25" bay devices wouldn't fit if they had knobs or buttons etc that stuck out more than a couple mm's.

- - - - - - -
edit:
I've been looking at the Lamptron CW611 as a possibility for my rig, although the new Aquaero 6 is tempting too even though it's going to be more than twice the price. That, and in the topic here at OCN about the controller reps from Lamptron referred to the CW611 as the 'budget version' of other models to be released before the end of the year. Considering the CW611's features, I'm really looking forward to seeing what Lamptron will be coming out with.

- - - - - -

Also, re: your wanting to have a separate psu. On a somewhat similar note I read in a topic somewhere recently someone saying something about a fan / pump controller of some sort that can be set to start your pump before the computer comes on and run the pump for a while after shutdown, but google fails me at the moment. For some reason I was thinking the Alphacool Heatmaster II was it, that, or the Aquaero, but looking a bit at both I'm not seeing that either can do that.


----------



## Roxycon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> What's a LAN party .... that's what laptops are for


Im not going to compromise to that







and especially not to the gathering (lan im going to) wouldnt dare going anywhere since its easy to steal


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Good point Uni ..... I have had a lotta cases with front doors over the 5.25 bays and they have always had like a 1/4" space in there .... and I remembered in Jesse & Bill's video, that the filter housing on the back of the the bottom section by fans was about finger thick.

I guess that's a question for Jesse.... at least until newegg starts shipping.









That's why I bought the case and nothing else..... well trying to decide whether to add the Mobo...... upside is I can take more measurements ...... downside is if it's bad, newegg return is dead outside the 30 day window.

And I'm still undecided on a few things ..... so thatz why order hasnt been made

Haven't decided on 770s or 780s
Don't know what reservoir will fir as yet
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roxycon*
> 
> Im not going to compromise to that
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and especially not to the gathering (lan im going to) wouldnt dare going anywhere since its easy to steal


I am quite satisfied with game play on my Clevo ... I'll spec one out for ya









17.3" Full HD LED AUO B173HW01 V.4 90% NTSC 1920 x 1080 Gloss Type
IC Diamond Thermal Compound - CPU + GPU
Dual NVIDIA® GeForce™ GTX 780M's total 8GB GDDR5 SLI® Enabled
4th Generation Intel® Core™ i7-4930MX Processor Extreme Edition
32GB Dual Channel DDR3 SDRAM at 1600MHz - 4 X 8GB
2 x SAMSUNG® 840 EVO 1TB SATA III SSD
6X BD-R Blu-ray Burner 8X DVD±R 2.4X +DL Super Drive and Software
Killer™ Wireless-N 1202 A/B/G/N with Bluetooth 4.0 Combo Module
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> I'm going to "engineer" a caster base for mine. Will also give better airflow to bottom radiator. Ordered 20 40mm casters.. Will look like something Mega Movers use.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's one place I think Phanteks goofed.. only the little slit vent on each side of bottom to supply air for bottom fans.


Twenty ???? .... I was thinking 4, maybe 6 .... but then I remembered the bottom was plastic.... once it gets here, I'll figure out what I can do.

I leave anything out .... I means besides the water cooling







?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *6steven9*
> 
> it was the 14 they pushed it back and probably will continue to push it back till all phanteks pre-orders are done any other retailers probably won't get the case till at the end of october at the very soonest


The other retailers "pre-ordered" too. I think that Phanteks will fill the orders they had logged before retailers established their ship date. I'm thinking Phanteks will honor their commitments to the retailers also.


----------



## Roxycon

Well, im a student, i cant afford a highend gaming laptop and dont really want to (i have tried some different, xps and asus ones) seems laptops have a shorter life..

And you cant really say youd choose a laptop over 2x27" screens and a desktop (almost same specs, just overclocked to 5 ghz and the watercooling)


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roxycon*
> 
> The UPS man almost dropped my wc gear for the enthoo on the ground
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Those 480's are big and heavy, can't say i look forward to transporting the case to a lan


Yeah, if I saw my UPS man drop any of my packages, ...... I suspect I could have gotten rid of the body but not sure what to do with that big brown truck. lol
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Oh....it's probably worse than you imagine. I just flat out refuse to pick mine up again. It's actually even pretty hard to drag across the floor now. I was pretty shocked by the final weight, even coming out of a Fractal Define XL didn't prepare me.


lol, I've dragged my Cosmo 2 around more than I ever should have, and it was right at 50 lbs (23 kgs) empty and well over 100 lbs (45 kgs) now, and I haven't even filled up but half of the HDD bays or put it under water yet. I did manage to attach it on top of a short rolling drawer cabinet I made for it, so rolling it around isn't a big deal any more, but that doesn't help at all with all the times I've had to lift it. It just added another ~20 lbs or so to it. At least it does have sturdy aluminum handles on top that do make the lifting a little easier. Once I get the Enthoo Primo built its days of getting moved back and forth should come to an end for the most part. I sure hope so any way.


----------



## Hereisphilly

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Yeah, if I saw my UPS man drop any of my packages, ...... I suspect I could have gotten rid of the body but not sure what to do with that big brown truck. lol
> lol, I've dragged my Cosmo 2 around more than I ever should have, and it was right at 50 lbs (23 kgs) empty and well over 100 lbs (45 kgs) now, and I haven't even filled up but half of the HDD bays or put it under water yet. I did manage to attach it on top of a short rolling drawer cabinet I made for it, so rolling it around isn't a big deal any more, but that doesn't help at all with all the times I've had to lift it. It just added another ~20 lbs or so to it. At least it does have sturdy aluminum handles on top that do make the lifting a little easier. Once I get the Enthoo Primo built its days of getting moved back and forth should come to an end for the most part. I sure hope so any way.


Do you have any pictures of your current cabinet? It sounds like a great idea, and it doubles up as providing a flat surface to raise the case up off my man-cave carpet!


----------



## Roxycon




----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hereisphilly*
> 
> Do you have any pictures of your current cabinet? It sounds like a great idea, and it doubles up as providing a flat surface to raise the case up off my man-cave carpet!


Don't already have pics, but will definitely post some when I get the chance. ;-)


----------



## Hereisphilly

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Don't already have pics, but will definitely post some when I get the chance. ;-)


Cheers! Hopefully it can give me some inspiration!


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> Twenty ???? .... I was thinking 4, maybe 6 .... but then I remembered the bottom was plastic.... once it gets here, I'll figure out what I can do.


They were on special. Sets of 4 casters for £3.00 delivered... and I like having some on hand for projects. Here's a caster base for an old Define R2


Not sure yet how to do the Primo base. I'm hoping not to raise it more than 30-40mm at the most. Make up a multi-wheeled base to look like the mega movers use under their super heavy loads. Maybe something like these 30mm casters:


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Will this work ?



http://www.frozencpu.com/products/8512/cpa-269/Lian_Li_W2B_Case_Carriage_Caster_Platform_-_Black.html


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> Will this work ?
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/8512/cpa-269/Lian_Li_W2B_Case_Carriage_Caster_Platform_-_Black.html


I would recommend either getting one with an open bottom, or cutting a hole in that one.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> Will this work ?
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/8512/cpa-269/Lian_Li_W2B_Case_Carriage_Caster_Platform_-_Black.html


That's a nice find.

10" (254mm) x 23.5" (597mm) are perfect dimensions for a pedestal for the 9.85" (250mm) x 23.6" (600mm) Enthoo Primo.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> I would recommend either getting one with an open bottom, or cutting a hole in that one.


I wouldn't, as that would just help suck dust off the floor. The venting on the front and sides and open back at the bottom of the Enthoo Primo, and the extra gap all around the bottom the rubber feet of the case will provide when sat on a hard surface, looks like it should allow for plenty of airflow to the bottom of the case, just for example, a LOT more so than the venting down the sides of the front of a 900D does for the front fans on it, and I haven't seen too many mods where people are cutting out the front panel of their 900Ds for more airflow (though I've little doubt that some have. lol).

EDIT:
I guess if you really wanted to open up more airflow to the bottom I'd just cut some spacers out of hard rubber/plastic/etc to match the size of the rubber case feet, paint them black if they weren't already & stick them to the bottoms of the feet using double sided tape just to keep them in place and that would increase the size of the gap at the bottom for more air.

Then it looks like you might could use the holes on the bottom down the right side of the case right next to the feet to bolt the thing to the pedestal so it wouldn't move around on it, assuming you could fish some long-enough bolts with washers through there.


----------



## Hereisphilly

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> Will this work ?
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/8512/cpa-269/Lian_Li_W2B_Case_Carriage_Caster_Platform_-_Black.html


Damn, that is nice, shame the shipping cost to the UK is insane!
Now to find one near to where i am!


----------



## doyll

Nice looking base but very expensive for what it is. 4x castors are £3.00-7.00 and a piece of 10mm baltic birch plywood (7 ply) is another £5-10.00. Screws or bolts another £2-4.00.

I'm a custom woodworker by profession so no big deal to build a nice base.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> That's a nice find.
> 
> 10" (254mm) x 23.5" (597mm) are perfect dimensions for a pedestal for the 9.85" (250mm) x 23.6" (600mm) Enthoo Primo.
> I wouldn't, as that would just help suck dust off the floor. The venting on the front and sides and open back at the bottom of the Enthoo Primo, and the extra gap all around the bottom the rubber feet of the case will provide when sat on a hard surface, looks like it should allow for plenty of airflow to the bottom of the case, just for example, a LOT more so than the venting down the sides of the front of a 900D does for the front fans on it, and I haven't seen too many mods where people are cutting out the front panel of their 900Ds for more airflow (though I've little doubt that some have. lol).
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT:
> I guess if you really wanted to open up more airflow to the bottom I'd just cut some spacers out of hard rubber/plastic/etc to match the size of the rubber case feet, paint them black if they weren't already & stick them to the bottoms of the feet using double sided tape just to keep them in place and that would increase the size of the gap at the bottom for more air.
> 
> Then it looks like you might could use the holes on the bottom down the right side of the case right next to the feet to bolt the thing to the pedestal so it wouldn't move around on it, assuming you could fish some long-enough bolts with washers through there.


all depends on how you route it. I normally have my bottom rad exhaust out of the bottom of the case.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> all depends on how you route it. I normally have my bottom rad exhaust out of the bottom of the case.


I didn't even consider that.

I'm definitely going to be intaking air through the bottom rad into the case and exhausting air though the top rad out of it, plus there'll be the two 140s in the front and I'm thinking of moving two of the other phanteks 140s I wouldn't otherwise be using to the mounting locations on the right side panel, all pulling ambient filtered air into the case to help displace the heat from the bottom rad & for extra positive pressure to help keep the case as dust-free as possible, and there'll be the 140 on the back exhausting out also.


----------



## Hereisphilly

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Nice looking base but very expensive for what it is. 4x castors are £3.00-7.00 and a piece of 10mm baltic birch plywood (7 ply) is another £5-10.00. Screws or bolts another £2-4.00.
> 
> I'm a custom woodworker by profession so no big deal to build a nice base.


Haha, maybe you should set up shop and make a few, I would defintely commision you for one!

I work in the engineering dept. at a pressure vessel fab. company, so I was looking at it thinking, castors off ebay, ~ £10, 4mm steel plate, get someone in the works to knock me one up... but is probably going to be massively industrial for home use, (we usually work with +30mm steel)


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hereisphilly*
> 
> Damn, that is nice, shame the shipping cost to the UK is insane!
> Now to find one near to where i am!


Well it's Lian Li .... must be distributors in UK

They also have a plastic thing that lifts it 5" off floor ....as usual....it's suggested whenever I wanna buy something but when ya look for it, it's not around









....persistence pays off



http://www.frozencpu.com/products/17837/cas-433/PC_Crate_Computer_Cable_Organizer_and_Lift_Kit.html


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hereisphilly*
> 
> Haha, maybe you should set up shop and make a few, I would defintely commision you for one!
> 
> I work in the engineering dept. at a pressure vessel fab. company, so I was looking at it thinking, castors off ebay, ~ £10, 4mm steel plate, get someone in the works to knock me one up... but is probably going to be massively industrial for home use, (we usually work with +30mm steel)


I might be able to make some bases for owners here in UK. They would be open center with 4 or maybe 6 casters.

Once my case arrives I'll be able to figure out exactly what it will take. Obviously the prices above are my cost for materials plus glue, filler, sand paper and paint, but at a guess about £30.00.


----------



## Roxycon

Do all of you guys like the looks of wheels under your case?


----------



## jassilamba

For those wondering how much space they have to install fan controllers, would say you have about 10mm of clearance with the door closed. I had a NZXT sentry laying around and used that for comparison. The door has can filed on the inside if you have a device that wont let the door close flush.


----------



## Roxycon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jassilamba*
> 
> For those wondering how much space they have to install fan controllers, would say you have about 10mm of clearance with the door closed. I had a NZXT sentry laying around and used that for comparison. The door has can filed on the inside if you have a device that wont let the door close flush.


So dual bay res with big screws like the xspc ones will fit nicely ?


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hereisphilly*
> 
> Haha, maybe you should set up shop and make a few, I would defintely commision you for one!
> 
> I work in the engineering dept. at a pressure vessel fab. company, so I was looking at it thinking, castors off ebay, ~ £10, 4mm steel plate, get someone in the works to knock me one up... but is probably going to be massively industrial for home use, (we usually work with +30mm steel)


How 'bout fabricating me a acrylic tube bending jig out of aluminum


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roxycon*
> 
> Do all of you guys like the looks of wheels under your case?


Well I was thinking of stealing Jesse's Monsta 480 with push / pull 2650 rpm fans and letting it levitate


----------



## Hereisphilly

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> I might be able to make some bases for owners here in UK. They would be open center with 4 or maybe 6 casters.
> 
> Once my case arrives I'll be able to figure out exactly what it will take. Obviously the prices above are my cost for materials plus glue, filler, sand paper and paint, but at a guess about £30.00.


Definitely be interested! Yeah get your case in, and see what it would take, then we'll go from there!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> How 'bout fabricating me a acrylic tube bending jig out of aluminum


Im afraid we only use carbon or stainless steel, but if you have an idea in mind of what you want, I can take a look at it and see if I can get something actioned!


----------



## zambalek80

Hey guys. Just signed up to this forum, because I am seriously thinking about getting this case.

However I do have a couple of questions that I haven't found answered in this thread.

1) Does a GTX 770 fit without removing the cover in the back next to the MB tray? I know it theoretically should fit, but I'm looking for practical. Because if I pay such an amount for a BIG Tower I'd hate to be fighting for a couple of millimetres of space, you see.

2) I heard the cushioning of the HDD cages is not up to the standards of the rest of that case. So vibration and noise could be an issue. Is that true? Because, combine that with the hinged front door and this can become painstakingly irritating. I only took my chances once with such a case (Thermaltake Shark) and it drove me crazy!! Can anyone tell me what the case looks like with that door removed? Please don't tear me to pieces for asking this.

Thanx for your help.


----------



## doyll

Welcome to the forum zambalek80









Depends on the GTX 770 you choose. It comes in many sizes.

Jessilamba will probably be along in a couple hours and have the answers you need. He's one of the few with the case in hand.









His review is very good and he has an good FAQ list.
http://themodzoo.com/forum/index.php?/topic/854-case-review-phanteks-enthoo-primo-full-tower-review/


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zambalek80*
> 
> Hey guys. Just signed up to this forum, because I am seriously thinking about getting this case.
> 
> However I do have a couple of questions that I haven't found answered in this thread.
> 
> 1) Does a GTX 770 fit without removing the cover in the back next to the MB tray? I know it theoretically should fit, but I'm looking for practical. Because if I pay such an amount for a BIG Tower I'd hate to be fighting for a couple of millimetres of space, you see.


As Doyll points out, there are too many different length GTX770s to be able to say. Most of the EVGA cards are 267mm (10.5") or less, but there's also triple fan cards like the Gigabyte Windforce models that are 292mm (11.5").

The reservoir bracket has a plastic cover on it. With the plastic cover off the reservoir bracket has a notch to allow for slightly longer cards installed in slots 1 - 3 in your mobo.
The max length for a card with the reservoir bracket in place is ...
257 mm (10.1") reservoir bracket installed with cover
277 mm (10.9") reservoir bracket installed without cover
Of course the reservoir bracket can be removed and then cards up to 350mm (13.8") will fit.
Source: Phanteks Enthoo Primo user manual: http://www.phanteks.com/Enthoo-Primo.html
Quote:


> 2) I heard the cushioning of the HDD cages is not up to the standards of the rest of that case. So vibration and noise could be an issue. Is that true? Because, combine that with the hinged front door and this can become painstakingly irritating. I only took my chances once with such a case (Thermaltake Shark) and it drove me crazy!! Can anyone tell me what the case looks like with that door removed? Please don't tear me to pieces for asking this.


I haven't heard anything like that about the HDD bays. Not sure what to say about that. Where have you heard that from?

As far as I'm aware, I believe every review that we've had linked in this forum so far, video and print (at least the ones that were done in English), has had basically all good things to say about the HDD cages and the tool-less inserts.

However, I've definitely heard complaints about the door on the front. I LUV it personally, but can see why not everyone is crazy about it. Not sure exactly what it would look like without it, or how hard/easy it would be to remove, but you can probably get some idea looking at it with the door open.


----------



## jassilamba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zambalek80*
> 
> Hey guys. Just signed up to this forum, because I am seriously thinking about getting this case.
> 
> However I do have a couple of questions that I haven't found answered in this thread.
> 
> 1) Does a GTX 770 fit without removing the cover in the back next to the MB tray? I know it theoretically should fit, but I'm looking for practical. Because if I pay such an amount for a BIG Tower I'd hate to be fighting for a couple of millimetres of space, you see.
> 
> 2) I heard the cushioning of the HDD cages is not up to the standards of the rest of that case. So vibration and noise could be an issue. Is that true? Because, combine that with the hinged front door and this can become painstakingly irritating. I only took my chances once with such a case (Thermaltake Shark) and it drove me crazy!! Can anyone tell me what the case looks like with that door removed? Please don't tear me to pieces for asking this.
> 
> Thanx for your help.


1 - Check out the review that was linked to, as that shows whats the max length you can have with a GPU and the brackets still on.

2. I actually have my pump installed in the front 5.25" drive bay, and the panel door actually helps with the noise. If I leave the cover open, I can hear the pump, with the door closed I cannot hear the pump at all. Also the side panels have little tiny rubber feet to prevent any noise from the side panel vibrating.

The quality of the case is really really good, and any place where you can have some vibration, the designers at Phanteks have made sure that there are rubber grommets or some sort of vibration dampening is present.

For reference my case has the following items:

1 - 14 Fans
2 - Two 3.5" HDDs
3 - Two 2.5" SSDs
4- Swiftech MCP 35X pump (running at full speed)

And with all those components (other than the mobo and GPUs), the build is really really quiet.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

I can't help but keep checking my email to see if Phanteks has notified me yet that my case has shipped.

I know their last estimated ship date of Oct 18 is still 2 days away, but I can't help but think that maybe they would get out some of the pre-ordered cases before then.

I guess what has me looking early is that Newegg's Phanteks Enthoo Primo sales page still says their release date is tomorrow, Oct 17, and Phanteks assured me in their forums that the pre-ordered cases would be sent out before any cases got sent to retailers like Newegg, soooo... either (a) Newegg is mistaken/misleading their customers or (b) my case is already on its way to me or (c) Phanteks lied to me.

It has to be one of those three.

I've a feeling the next few days are going to feel more like a few weeks. I swear the second hand on my wall clock is getting slower and slower.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> EDIT:
> I guess if you really wanted to open up more airflow to the bottom I'd just cut some spacers out of hard rubber/plastic/etc to match the size of the rubber case feet, paint them black if they weren't already & stick them to the bottoms of the feet using double sided tape just to keep them in place and that would increase the size of the gap at the bottom for more air.
> 
> Then it looks like you might could use the holes on the bottom down the right side of the case right next to the feet to bolt the thing to the pedestal so it wouldn't move around on it, assuming you could fish some long-enough bolts with washers through there.


Advantage of casters is not just the added airflow but the ease of moving case when needed.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Advantage of casters is not just the added airflow but the ease of moving case when needed.


Oh I agree wholeheartedly., I have always had some way to roll around all of my full towers, and my Enthoo Primo will be no different.

What you quoted was me responding to Skupples remarking about that caster base that he "would recommend either getting one with an open bottom, or cutting a hole in that one", and I was just thinking that I wouldn't do that if I were using the bottom of the case as an intake. which I always would do.

I like the idea of just a flat caster base like that, but I also like to keep my rigs up off the floor more than that to cut down on dust affecting them. I sure wouldn't cut holes in the bottom of it, but I guess that wouldn't be so bad if, like Skupples wrote, you were exhausting air out the bottom of the case, though I wonder if doing that wouldn't just warm the air all around the case more so than it would sucking ambient air through the front and bottom and exhausting it through the top & back. Especially when I'm gaming or encoding video that can be quite a bit of heat getting pumped out of the case, enough to warm a whole room a few degrees more than the rest of the house. and I'd like to think that I'm pushing the heat out and away from the case rather than circulating it out the bottom only to be quickly sucking it right back in through the front & top, but I'm just speculating that might make a noticeable difference.


----------



## dsmwookie

I m with you Unicron. I don't care if Phanteks and Newegg ship at the same time as long as they refund me the $30 difference. I just want it sooner rather than later.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> I know their last estimated ship date of Oct 18 is still 2 days away ......I guess what has me looking early is that Newegg's Phanteks Enthoo Primo sales page still says their release date is tomorrow, Oct 17, and Phanteks assured me in their forums that the pre-ordered cases would be sent out before any cases got sent to retailers like Newegg, soooo... either (a) Newegg is mistaken/misleading their customers or (b) my case is already on its way to me or (c) Phanteks lied to me.


or 4.....







Release Date doesn't mean Ship Date.

With a release date of the 17th, newegg could be processing orders on the 17th and shipping on the 18th, same as Phanteks.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> or 4.....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Release Date doesn't mean Ship Date.
> 
> With a release date of the 17th, newegg could be processing orders on the 17th and shipping on the 18th, same as Phanteks.


That makes no sense. They've been 'processing orders' (taking pre-orders) for weeks. There's nothing more for them to do besides ship it. If Phanteks is going to ship my case on the 18th before they ship Newegg's then Newegg will not even have their cases to ship to anyone else before the 19th and that's if they paid to have theirs overnighted, which everyone knows would never happen. More likely Newegg wouldn't see any cases until the 21-23rd or later just like the rest of us would, unless A, B, or C above.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Oh I agree wholeheartedly., I have always had some way to roll around all of my full towers, and my Enthoo Primo will be no different.
> 
> What you quoted was me responding to Skupples remarking about that caster base that he "would recommend either getting one with an open bottom, or cutting a hole in that one", and I was just thinking that I wouldn't do that if I were using the bottom of the case as an intake. which I always would do.
> 
> I like the idea of just a flat caster base like that, but I also like to keep my rigs up off the floor more than that to cut down on dust affecting them. I sure wouldn't cut holes in the bottom of it, but I guess that wouldn't be so bad if, like Skupples wrote, you were exhausting air out the bottom of the case, though I wonder if doing that wouldn't just warm the air all around the case more so than it would sucking ambient air through the front and bottom and exhausting it through the top & back. Especially when I'm gaming or encoding video that can be quite a bit of heat getting pumped out of the case, enough to warm a whole room a few degrees more than the rest of the house. and I'd like to think that I'm pushing the heat out and away from the case rather than circulating it out the bottom only to be quickly sucking it right back in through the front & top, but I'm just speculating that might make a noticeable difference.


Ah, my bad. Feet on a flat caster base would be okay but I like having at least as much access area to bottom fans as they have in area. 3x 120mm fans are 508.7sq cm... all in a row they have 85.7cm circumference area to draw air from.. making the clearance from floor 5.9cm to have same area as fans. We can deduct the area of the motor hubs making the blade area 501.6sq cm which is still 5.8cm clearance. The bottom of Primo is open at back with fine grill on sides and front.. but the right side only has narrow slots through the plastic on inside of base. Of course if system isn't working hard and making lots of heat the fans don't need to move as much air, but the stock base is really restrictive in it's vent area to supply as many fans as it is capable of holding.

I have hardwood floors with open base with 2x 140mm fans pulling air in (1x is PSU) on my old Define R2 plus 2x 140mm front intakes. I noticed a considerable difference between case setting on floor and on base; much quieter and better airflow. I'm still air cooled but do the same, front / bottom to back / top.. using all of back to keep as much GPU heat away from CPU as possible.

Agree on not pushing air out the bottom. Much harder to be sure it's not going back in somewhere else.


----------



## Gabrielzm

If it feels like any consolation to you guys I order mine case from Highflow in Netherlands. They just told me they will get the case by the end of the month







. So, yes, I believe you guys that order from Phanteks will get early...

Cheers

Gabriel


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> That makes no sense. They've been 'processing orders' (taking pre-orders) for weeks. There's nothing more for them to do besides ship it. If Phanteks is going to ship my case on the 18th before they ship Newegg's then Newegg will not even have their cases to ship to anyone else before the 19th and that's if they paid to have theirs overnighted, which everyone knows would never happen. More likely Newegg wouldn't see any cases until the 21-23rd or later just like the rest of us would, unless A, B, or C above.


Actually it does sense if ya familiar with newegg's processes. And I would be shocked if newegg's and other major distributor's allotments ever see the inside of any "Phanteks USA" properties..... double shipping just doesn't make sense but I'll get back to this later..

The reason is that neweggs pre-orders have not as yet been processed. Been thru this before but confirmed it today by calling newegg on another matter. The purpose of my call was to add the MoBo to the order as I figured, I couldn't do much measuring of Rad clearances w/o the MoBo in place. I was told I could not add the MoBo to my order as "there is no order in the system".

Here's how it works .... what I have is what is called a "pre-order" .

Newegg order numbers have 9 digits:
Newegg Pre-order numbers have 7 digits

The customer service rep couldn't add an "order" to a "preorder as she couldn't access the preorder "in the system". As many have indicated in their complaints so far saying "newegg doesn't do that".... newegg has not "cleared credit" for my purchase. Looking at my current Amex charges on line and I see a $299.99 purchase from newegg for the Maximus VI Formula (10/16) but no $269.98 purchase for the Enthoo from 10/9

Note the wording on the web site: It says "Release Date".... not "arrival date" ..... in the past, when I have seen that, it means..."we have them sitting here, but we can't ship until they are released". Think i-Phone......Boxes arrive in the stores..... Apple Stores, Carrier Stores, Walmart all about the same time.....staff are trained and a few days later you can buy one.... they arrive before the release date.

So the "There's nothing more for them to do besides ship it."assumption is not quite correct......it's a 2-3 day process ..... here's an excerpt from newegg's written response to my inquiry on the Enthoo:

"Please kindly note that all preorders will be transferred into normal order after it is released and then take 1-2 business days to ship out. The preorders will be processed in the order they were received."

Note, not one word about "arriving". Yes, the answer I got could be wrong but this is the general practice that I have experienced in the past.

Most peeps still assume that components are actually sitting somewhere at the order location. In this millenium, this is rarely the case as most vendors have switched to JIT (Just in Time) delivery systems to stay competitive. If I have an inventory of 1200 items coming in and I have 1000 presold.... why should I ever put those 1000 in my warehouse instead of drop shipping direct to who I sold it to ? Apple sells a lot of phones at it stores.....but only a fraction of what is sold by carriers. Why double ship to all those buggers to Apple and then reship to carriers at twice the cost ?

Almost no one owns warehouse space these days. In the course of my work, we receive equipment made oversees.....it doesn't go to company headquarters say in Florida and then trucked 1300 miles to us .... its unloaded off a ship in NY and trucked 40 miles to the site. Only thing we get from Florida is an invoice.

When I order from newegg in Georgia on a Monday, most of the time my order is charged on Monday, ships on Tuesday and arrives Wednesday. That's because the component was never delivered to newegg headquarters in Georgia, it's drop shipped from New Jersey 50 miles away.

Similarly, most PC components are made in China / Japan / Taiwan and generally are not shipped to the company's European headquarters, then shipped to USA headquarters, and then shipped to newegg. Why send products around the world when ya US market is just across the Pacific ?

I don't know what Phanteks does but most manufacturers send a container ship across the Pacific and then a fleet of trucks leaves California, some bearing an inventory for direct orders (small quantities) for sales from company headquarters and many, many more going out directly to major distributors. Think about it..... newegg will prolly sell a truckload or 2 in the 1st week...... why ship them from the California docks to Phanteks USA, unload them, put them in Phanteks warehouse, load them into a different truck, and then send them to newegg .... lotta labor and cost (lotta weight to double ship) which eats into the bottom line.

here's what we have been told:

newegg says release date is the 17th
IIRC, Phanteks said they shipping the 18th and that these will go out before anybody else
newegg said that sometime after the 17th they will process orders (say 17th and 18th - while supplies last)
newegg says that it will take 1-2 days to ship after order (not pre-order) processing (that has them shipping on the 18th at the earliest but most likely 19th- 20th)

Of course that doesn't mean that any of the above will actually happen but I can find no inconsistency in what's been said by both parties. It's also consistent with past experience with newegg and others. ATT&T had the i-Phones in stock well before the "Release Date". When i ordered i-Phone upgrades for the kids (geez 17, 22 and 23 and I still call them kids) from AT&T, they told me what sizes (GB) and colors they had "in stock" and how long I would have to wait for subsequent deliveries. They arrived 2 days after release date....far to short a time for them to have been double shipped.

Funny thing is, it doesn't much matter to me when the ship the dang thing .....I can't build a system now anyway as any decent RAM is no where to be found.

1st Choice - Mushkin 997122 or 997122R- 2 x 8GB DDR3-2400 CAS 10-12-12-28
2nd Choice - Cosair Vengeance Pro CMY16GX3M2A2400C10R 2 x 8GB DDR3-2400 CAS 10-12-12-31 (Hynix version)
3rd Choice - Cosair Dominator CMD16GX3M2A2400C10 2 x 8GB DDR3-2400 CAS 10-12-12-31


----------



## Hereisphilly

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> Actually it does sense if ya familiar with newegg's processes. And I would be shocked if newegg's and other major distributor's allotments ever see the inside of any "Phanteks USA" properties..... double shipping just doesn't make sense but I'll get back to this later..
> 
> The reason is that neweggs pre-orders have not as yet been processed. Been thru this before but confirmed it today by calling newegg on another matter. The purpose of my call was to add the MoBo to the order as I figured, I couldn't do much measuring of Rad clearances w/o the MoBo in place. I was told I could not add the MoBo to my order as "there is no order in the system".
> 
> Here's how it works .... what I have is what is called a "pre-order" .
> 
> Newegg order numbers have 9 digits:
> Newegg Pre-order numbers have 7 digits
> 
> The customer service rep couldn't add an "order" to a "preorder as she couldn't access the preorder "in the system". As many have indicated in their complaints so far saying "newegg doesn't do that".... newegg has not "cleared credit" for my purchase. Looking at my current Amex charges on line and I see a $299.99 purchase from newegg for the Maximus VI Formula (10/16) but no $269.98 purchase for the Enthoo from 10/9
> 
> Note the wording on the web site: It says "Release Date".... not "arrival date" ..... in the past, when I have seen that, it means..."we have them sitting here, but we can't ship until they are released". Think i-Phone......Boxes arrive in the stores..... Apple Stores, Carrier Stores, Walmart all about the same time.....staff are trained and a few days later you can buy one.... they arrive before the release date.
> 
> So the "There's nothing more for them to do besides ship it."assumption is not quite correct......it's a 2-3 day process ..... here's an excerpt from newegg's written response to my inquiry on the Enthoo:
> 
> "Please kindly note that all preorders will be transferred into normal order after it is released and then take 1-2 business days to ship out. The preorders will be processed in the order they were received."
> 
> Note, not one word about "arriving". Yes, the answer I got could be wrong but this is the general practice that I have experienced in the past.
> 
> Most peeps still assume that components are actually sitting somewhere at the order location. In this millenium, this is rarely the case as most vendors have switched to JIT (Just in Time) delivery systems to stay competitive. If I have an inventory of 1200 items coming in and I have 1000 presold.... why should I ever put those 1000 in my warehouse instead of drop shipping direct to who I sold it to ? Apple sells a lot of phones at it stores.....but only a fraction of what is sold by carriers. Why double ship to all those buggers to Apple and then reship to carriers at twice the cost ?
> 
> Almost no one owns warehouse space these days. In the course of my work, we receive equipment made oversees.....it doesn't go to company headquarters say in Florida and then trucked 1300 miles to us .... its unloaded off a ship in NY and trucked 40 miles to the site. Only thing we get from Florida is an invoice.
> 
> When I order from newegg in Georgia on a Monday, most of the time my order is charged on Monday, ships on Tuesday and arrives Wednesday. That's because the component was never delivered to newegg headquarters in Georgia, it's drop shipped from New Jersey 50 miles away.
> 
> Similarly, most PC components are made in China / Japan / Taiwan and generally are not shipped to the company's European headquarters, then shipped to USA headquarters, and then shipped to newegg. Why send products around the world when ya US market is just across the Pacific ?
> 
> I don't know what Phanteks does but most manufacturers send a container ship across the Pacific and then a fleet of trucks leaves California, some bearing an inventory for direct orders (small quantities) for sales from company headquarters and many, many more going out directly to major distributors. Think about it..... newegg will prolly sell a truckload or 2 in the 1st week...... why ship them from the California docks to Phanteks USA, unload them, put them in Phanteks warehouse, load them into a different truck, and then send them to newegg .... lotta labor and cost (lotta weight to double ship) which eats into the bottom line.
> 
> here's what we have been told:
> 
> newegg says release date is the 17th
> IIRC, Phanteks said they shipping the 18th and that these will go out before anybody else
> newegg said that sometime after the 17th they will process orders (say 17th and 18th - while supplies last)
> newegg says that it will take 1-2 days to ship after order (not pre-order) processing (that has them shipping on the 18th at the earliest but most likely 19th- 20th)
> 
> Of course that doesn't mean that any of the above will actually happen but I can find no inconsistency in what's been said by both parties. It's also consistent with past experience with newegg and others. ATT&T had the i-Phones in stock well before the "Release Date". When i ordered i-Phone upgrades for the kids (geez 17, 22 and 23 and I still call them kids) from AT&T, they told me what sizes (GB) and colors they had "in stock" and how long I would have to wait for subsequent deliveries. They arrived 2 days after release date....far to short a time for them to have been double shipped.
> 
> Funny thing is, it doesn't much matter to me when the ship the dang thing .....I can't build a system now anyway as any decent RAM is no where to be found.
> 
> 1st Choice - Mushkin 997122 or 997122R- 2 x 8GB DDR3-2400 CAS 10-12-12-28
> 2nd Choice - Cosair Vengeance Pro CMY16GX3M2A2400C10R 2 x 8GB DDR3-2400 CAS 10-12-12-31 (Hynix version)
> 3rd Choice - Cosair Dominator CMD16GX3M2A2400C10 2 x 8GB DDR3-2400 CAS 10-12-12-31


Very interesting read!
On the ram note, have you had a look at these sticks from patriot?
http://www.overclockers.co.uk/showproduct.php?prodid=MY-096-PA&groupid=701&catid=8&subcat=1387

I know its a UK shop, but I've got the 2400 2x4GB kit in my rig and they fly! The black heat sinks look ace and they're not the tallest either which is good


----------



## doyll

Came up with these renditions of what 4x 40mm, 6x 40mm and 10x 40mm caster bases will look like.


Played with 18x too.










I think 4x, 6x and 10x look okay.

18x looks like a centipede on roller skates.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

UPDATE: newegg is sold out.....used up their entire allotment. Was unable to find out where I sit in the que..... only that they have more pre-orders than stock.

No orders have been processed as yet.


----------



## jassilamba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Came up with these renditions of what 4x 40mm, 6x 40mm and 10x 40mm caster bases will look like.
> 
> 
> Played with 18x too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think 4x, 6x and 10x look okay.
> 
> 18x looks like a centipede on roller skates.


How about 8X, 2 in pairs like a truck. Or do single ones in front, and 2X on the rear (each side).


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jassilamba*
> 
> How about 8X, 2 in pairs like a truck. Or do single ones in front, and 2X on the rear (each side).


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hereisphilly*
> 
> Very interesting read!
> On the ram note, have you had a look at these sticks from patriot?
> http://www.overclockers.co.uk/showproduct.php?prodid=MY-096-PA&groupid=701&catid=8&subcat=1387
> 
> I know its a UK shop, but I've got the 2400 2x4GB kit in my rig and they fly! The black heat sinks look ace and they're not the tallest either which is good


Never used Patriot ..... ya know what chips they use .....

My 1st choice is usually Mushkin, they hand test every module and in almost 20 years I have rec'd one bad stick...... I have had to return about half of the GSkills ....small sample tho as I stopped using pretty quicky.....Aesthetically, the Vengeance Pro and the Mushkin are the best aesthetic match with the RoG boards and Mushkin and certain versions of the Pro use Hynix.

I just talked to a friend in the industry ..... he doesn't expect Hynix to start shipping till January. It's not the repairs to the production line that's the holdup..... it's the huge loss in inventory. All the sheets burnt up in the blaze.

My one concern is I wouldn't mind wrestling w/ the shipping .... but if I had to do a return, Id be sunk
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jassilamba*
> 
> How about 8X, 2 in pairs like a truck. Or do single ones in front, and 2X on the rear (each side).


OO ...............OO.......O

I can see it now "The 18-Wheeler Build" ......, ya would need 18 casters tho, .... don't forget SS exhaust stacks, an air horn, an applique with the mud flap lady Silhouette



.... but as an experienced modder, I gotta ask ..... how would ya mount these ?

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Truck_nuts


----------



## doyll

Do the mudflap lady on the side window.








Added your idea to previous post.


----------



## Hereisphilly

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> Never used Patriot ..... ya know what chips they use .....
> 
> My 1st choice is usually Mushkin, they hand test every module and in almost 20 years I have rec'd one bad stick...... I have had to return about half of the GSkills ....small sample tho as I stopped using pretty quicky.....Aesthetically, the Vengeance Pro and the Mushkin are the best aesthetic match with the RoG boards and Mushkin and certain versions of the Pro use Hynix.
> 
> My one concern is I wouldn't mind wrestling w/ the shipping .... but if I had to do a return, Id be sunk
> 
> http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Truck_nuts


I dont know about the 16GB kits, but this review says that the 8GB are Hynix chips, so there is a possibility that they're same, just a higher density
The sticks come with a lifetime warranty and so i guess that takes the worry out a bit


----------



## Roxycon

Quote:


> Mnpctech.com
> Highly anticipated Phanteks Enthoo Primo will be available soon to those who placed pre-orders. Mnpctech & TheModZoo were 1st to preview this new case in August


From their facebook page


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hereisphilly*
> 
> The sticks come with a lifetime warranty and so i guess that takes the worry out a bit


The worry isn't getting them to agree to replace .... it's getting them back to where ya bought em and getting them to honor purchase policies cross border where there's no legal jurisdiction.

Damn, got me all excited for nothing ..... e-mail ding went off ..... newegg ..... could it be they were processing my order and I'd be shipping tomorrow or Monday ? Nope: Tracking No. for the MoBo .







Shipped from Joisey (NJ), so will be here tomorrow.

Newegg did say that if I am concerned about MoBo running out of 30 day window before I can build it (no memory / no case), I could return it.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Do the mudflap lady on the side window.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Added your idea to previous post.


What ? No truck nutz ?


----------



## jassilamba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*


My other idea that I have been trying to find something for is using belt drive (like tanks) instead of casters. Found a couple but they are pretty expensive, but a RC case that moves and does not get stuck is awesome lol.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jassilamba*
> 
> My other idea that I have been trying to find something for is using belt drive (like tanks) instead of casters. Found a couple but they are pretty expensive, but a RC case that moves and does not get stuck is awesome lol.


You'd need a "trailer" like the one I posted from FrozenCPU that carried the two car batteries..... power both the tracks and the PC.


----------



## Hereisphilly

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Played with 18x too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 18x looks like a centipede on roller skates.


The 18x looks like one of these! I think it looks ace


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Now that the shipping anxiety ends today...... what suggestions would ya have for Enthoo Primo 2

1. Make it a 0.5 - 1.0 inch bigger depth wise and let is fit in hi end GFX cards and a 5mm res......An extra 15mm of height for a UT60 in P/P (yeah I kno Jesse wants 20 more for his Monsta) and maybe 5mm wider to fit bottom 140mm rads

2. Give us a lil more room behind front panel door.

3. Provide SATA backplane for drive cages.

4. Ability to reverse door hinges


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hereisphilly*
> 
> The 18x looks like one of these! I think it looks ace
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


That was the general idea. Mega Mover kind of thing

Yeah Jack. A little more venting to bottom and front intake fans would be nice too. A optional base with casters solves the bottom and different front grill like MNPCTech has solves the front.

Sata & power backplate with a 2nd door in side panel for accessing HDDs would be very nice. This could be accessories too.


----------



## Hereisphilly

Does anyone know the cooling difference between a 420mm ut60 and an xt45 if both are in push pull?

I'm waiting till I get the case to measure up to see if the thicker rad will fit with my mobo, but I suddenly thought, if I ever change my mobo, I don't really want to have to check if it will fit, so if the cooling perfromace is similar, then I might aswel just buy the xt45.
I'll be running the fans at low rpms too


----------



## Roxycon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hereisphilly*
> 
> Does anyone know the cooling difference between a 420mm ut60 and an xt45 if both are in push pull?
> 
> I'm waiting till I get the case to measure up to see if the thicker rad will fit with my mobo, but I suddenly thought, if I ever change my mobo, I don't really want to have to check if it will fit, so if the cooling perfromace is similar, then I might aswel just buy the xt45.
> I'll be running the fans at low rpms too


youre lucky if you do find a 480 ut60







sold out everywhere, even alphacool's own e-store

did go for the xt 45 myself.. dont think there are much difference between them other than i would be forced to go p/p so it dont look skinny next to mye 480 monsta


----------



## Hereisphilly

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roxycon*
> 
> youre lucky if you do find a 480 ut60
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> sold out everywhere, even alphacool's own e-store
> 
> did go for the xt 45 myself.. dont think there are much difference between them other than i would be forced to go p/p so it dont look skinny next to mye 480 monsta


420 mate, not 480, I'm running 140mm rads!
Cool, anyone wanna back up roxycon?


----------



## Roxycon

Rad thickness was discussed a few pages back here;


----------



## Hereisphilly

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roxycon*
> 
> Rad thickness was discussed a few pages back here;


whoops, completely forgot about that discussion! Damn it really is close at those low rpms!

Choices.... Choices......


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hereisphilly*
> 
> Does anyone know the cooling difference between a 420mm ut60 and an xt45 if both are in push pull?
> 
> I'm waiting till I get the case to measure up to see if the thicker rad will fit with my mobo, but I suddenly thought, if I ever change my mobo, I don't really want to have to check if it will fit, so if the cooling perfromace is similar, then I might aswel just buy the xt45.
> I'll be running the fans at low rpms too


There's a spreadsheet ya can download in post 546 which gives estimated wattages......estimated from martins tests on the 360mm jobs and adjusting for areas......21% added for push / pull.

Bottom rad
280mm Monsta w/ Phanteks 1250 rpm fans = 216 watts
280mm UT60 w/ Phanteks 1250 rpm fans = 206 watts
280mm XT45 w/ Phanteks 1250 rpm fans = 201 watts

280mm Monsta w/ 1800 rpm fans = 309 watts
2800mm UT60 w/ 1800 rpm fans = 295 watts
280mm XT45 w/1800 rpm fans = 282 watts

Top rad
420mm Monsta w/ Phanteks 1250 rpm fans = 325 watts
420mm UT60 w/ Phanteks 1250 rpm fans = 309 watts
420mm XT45 w/ Phanteks 1250 rpm fans = 302 watts

420mm Monsta w/ 1800 rpm fans = 463 watts
420mm UT60 w/ 1800 rpm fans = 443 watts
420mm XT45 w/1800 rpm fans = 423 watts


----------



## bond32

That spreadsheet is awesome, I rep'ed you for that.

Who else is getting excited?? I think I have read almost every review, watched every video, and I still am not sure how I will build mine. I have 3 radiators on hand: 1 swiftech 360 xp, 1 XSPC RX240, and 1 swiftech 120 xp. The CPU is the only thing in the loop at the moment, but when they release the EK block for the 780 lightning I will possibly get one. So I thought I would do the 360 up top in push pull, the thick rx 240 in pull (intake) on the side bracket, and if it fits with the stock 140mm fans mounted in the bottom, the single 120mm rad in the bottom side (or not use it at all, I would like to put it in somewhere). My goal is to still use all the stock 140mm fans that are included. Also will have a D5 pump in a dual bay res, XSPC raystorm block.

If I mount it all like I am thinking, the outlet on the CPU block will need to wrap through the top left grommet. Is there adequate room for a push pull rad up there (thin) with 1/2" tubing next to it?


----------



## Sunreeper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Hereisphilly*
> 
> Does anyone know the cooling difference between a 420mm ut60 and an xt45 if both are in push pull?
> 
> I'm waiting till I get the case to measure up to see if the thicker rad will fit with my mobo, but I suddenly thought, if I ever change my mobo, I don't really want to have to check if it will fit, so if the cooling perfromace is similar, then I might aswel just buy the xt45.
> I'll be running the fans at low rpms too
> 
> 
> 
> There's a spreadsheet ya can download in post 546 which gives estimated wattages......estimated from martins tests on the 360mm jobs and adjusting for areas......21% added for push / pull.
> 
> Bottom rad
> 280mm Monsta w/ Phanteks 1250 rpm fans = 216 watts
> 280mm UT60 w/ Phanteks 1250 rpm fans = 206 watts
> 280mm XT60 w/ Phanteks 1250 rpm fans = 201 watts
> 
> 280mm Monsta w/ 1800 rpm fans = 282 watts
> 2800mm UT60 w/ 1800 rpm fans = 295 watts
> 280mm XT60 w/1800 rpm fans = 309 watts
> 
> Top rad
> 420mm Monsta w/ Phanteks 1250 rpm fans = 302 watts
> 420mm UT60 w/ Phanteks 1250 rpm fans = 309 watts
> 280mm XT60 w/ Phanteks 1250 rpm fans = 325 watts
> 
> 420mm Monsta w/ 1800 rpm fans = 423 watts
> 420mm UT60 w/ 1800 rpm fans = 443 watts
> 420mm XT60 w/1800 rpm fans = 463 watts
Click to expand...

How does a 60mm 280mm sized rad cool more than a 60mm 420mm rad?


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sunreeper*
> 
> How does a 60mm 280mm sized rad cool more than a 60mm 420mm rad?


Typos. The top two grouping were 280s .... the bottom two groupings were 420.....and there is no such thing as a XT60 ....shuda been XT45. I also reveres the wattage order in the last 3 groupings as I did the spreadsheet lowest to highest and did the post highest to lowest and lost track. Thanks for noticing .... all fixed now.(I hope) ..... spreadsheet is right tho








Quote:


> 420mm Monsta w/ Phanteks 1250 rpm fans = 302 watts
> 420mm UT60 w/ Phanteks 1250 rpm fans = 309 watts
> 280mm UT45 w/ Phanteks 1250 rpm fans = 325 watts


Shuda been
Quote:


> 420mm Monsta w/ Phanteks 1250 rpm fans = *325* watts
> 420mm UT60 w/ Phanteks 1250 rpm fans = 309 watts
> *420*mm *XT*45 w/ Phanteks 1250 rpm fans = *302* watts


----------



## Roxycon




----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> That spreadsheet is awesome, I rep'ed you for that.
> 
> Who else is getting excited?? I think I have read almost every review, watched every video, and I still am not sure how I will build mine. I have 3 radiators on hand: 1 swiftech 360 xp, 1 XSPC RX240, and 1 swiftech 120 xp. The CPU is the only thing in the loop at the moment, but when they release the EK block for the 780 lightning I will possibly get one. So I thought I would do the 360 up top in push pull, the thick rx 240 in pull (intake) on the side bracket, and if it fits with the stock 140mm fans mounted in the bottom, the single 120mm rad in the bottom side (or not use it at all, I would like to put it in somewhere). My goal is to still use all the stock 140mm fans that are included. Also will have a D5 pump in a dual bay res, XSPC raystorm block.
> 
> If I mount it all like I am thinking, the outlet on the CPU block will need to wrap through the top left grommet. Is there adequate room for a push pull rad up there (thin) with 1/2" tubing next to it?


Keep in mind that he spreadsheet is all extrapolation....only real data is the 360.

It stands to reason tho....

1. 240 will be roughly 2/3 of a 360 .....etc
2. 140mm Rads are slightly under reported due tot he fact that no accounting was made for smaller motor "dead spot'

If ya buy all new Rad fans, the provided fans top and bottom fans can be installed in the side bracket...ya can thank Jesse for answering my question on that.

Lightning is a long bugger at 11.61" .... gonna fit it in there ?


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jassilamba*
> 
> For those wondering how much space they have to install fan controllers, would say you have about 10mm of clearance with the door closed. I had a NZXT sentry laying around and used that for comparison. The door has can filed on the inside if you have a device that wont let the door close flush.


*1. The Good news ......*

A. Reeven Fits - Just re-watched the review of the Reeven (slide to 4:45 mark). The knobbies are "push to use" ....they flat against case front when door is closed .... press and they pop out to adjust ....push back in, they stay in ....door closes..... waaaay cool.






B. Reeven's available - Got an e-mail from Bucky @ FrozenCPU today...... "The Reeven has landed"

http://www.frozencpu.com/search.html?mv_profile=keyword_search&mv_session_id=AbWroxX8&searchspec=Reeven&go.x=0&go.y=0

C. RAM Grab Possible - I may have found me some 2400 CAS 10 memory

*2. The Bad news ....*

A. Losing the Bracket - Just noticed that Phanteks doesn't list my MoBo as compatible.







.... The M6F's 2nd GFX slot is lower than most boards as they leave a slot width for extra space between for cooling .... just like in Jesse's build so looks like I'll lose the bracket altogether. Well at least I don't gotta worry about card length anymore









Feedback please on these options:

a. Remove the rear fan and mount externally ....install Aqualis Pro or XSPC photon on rear wall. Since I don't have fancy EVGA SLI Badge, wanna hide that thing anyway









b. As above but on back side of HD cages or 5.25 bays (would hide what bracket supposed to hids

c. Mounting a Photon horizontally above the 280 rad on the bottom ? ***** to bleed but problems other than that ?

Reservoirs wont have pumps to deal with as the 35x2 will be mounted under you HD cage (lower one removed). I like the Aqualis and Photon cause they only 2 I know of not made of acrylic. But they do look like a PITA to do rigid tubing with with the inlet / outlet so close.

Alternate ideas welcome.

B. Availability - Newegg has gone into NSA mode on the Enthoo ... now says "sold out" and customer service isn't talking.


----------



## bond32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> Keep in mind that he spreadsheet is all extrapolation....only real data is the 360.
> 
> It stands to reason tho....
> 
> 1. 240 will be roughly 2/3 of a 360 .....etc
> 2. 140mm Rads are slightly under reported due tot he fact that no accounting was made for smaller motor "dead spot'
> 
> If ya buy all new Rad fans, the provided fans top and bottom fans can be installed in the side bracket...ya can thank Jesse for answering my question on that.
> 
> Lightning is a long bugger at 11.61" .... gonna fit it in there ?


Not with the reservoir bracket. I already knew that was an issue.


----------



## bond32

Wait so 140mm included fans will fit in the side rad bracket? I thought I was sized for 120mm


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> Wait so 140mm included fans will fit in the side rad bracket? I thought I was sized for 120mm


http://www.phanteks.com/Enthoo-Primo.html

Specs Tab

140mm fan - Side - 2x

I won't fit a 140mm rad.... but it does fit 140mm fans


----------



## Roxycon

Frozencpu is now taking preorders for the case, it 's 26 ordered already they have included a free giftpack with the preorder


----------



## mixman

Now Frozen is up to 39 preorders. I just want to get this case by Early Nov. Wondering if Frozen will even get 39 of these on their first allocation? If not I might have to bight the bullet and get it straight from Phanteks, even though Frozen would be a lot cheaper. How much was shipping from Phanteks?


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mixman*
> 
> Now Frozen is up to 39 preorders. I just want to get this case by Early Nov. Wondering if Frozen will even get 39 of these on their first allocation? If not I might have to bight the bullet and get it straight from Phanteks, even though Frozen would be a lot cheaper. How much was shipping from Phanteks?


----------



## Roxycon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*


Does phanteks handle their orders in usd?


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roxycon*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Does phanteks handle their orders in usd?
Click to expand...

They do if you're ordering in the US from phanteksusa.com.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> [...] If ya buy all new Rad fans, the provided fans top and bottom fans can be installed in the side bracket...ya can thank Jesse for answering my question on that. [...]


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> Wait so 140mm included fans will fit in the side rad bracket? I thought I was sized for 120mm
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.phanteks.com/Enthoo-Primo.html
> 
> Specs Tab
> 
> 140mm fan - Side - 2x
> 
> I won't fit a 140mm rad.... but it does fit 140mm fans
Click to expand...

Just to be clear.
The right side panel will fit 120 or 140 mm fans.
The bracket will only fit 120mm rad/fans.


----------



## bond32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Just to be clear.
> The right side panel will fit 120 or 140 mm fans.
> The bracket will only fit 120mm rad/fans.


Awesome! Thanks


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Yeah, since I otherwise won't be using the Phanteks fans except for the two in the front, I may eventually wind up mounting two of them to that side panel to help keep more positive pressure in the case (more filtered fan cfm blowing into the case than fan cfm blowing out) to help keep issues with dust to a minimum.

Any word on their cases having been shipped yet? From Phanteks or Newegg or ...?

Have really been looking forward to getting an email from Phanteks that my case has shipped, assuming they will do that. I'm hoping I get a tracking number so I can keep up with it's journey / know when to expect it. Nothing yet though.


----------



## mixman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *mixman*
> 
> Now Frozen is up to 39 preorders. I just want to get this case by Early Nov. Wondering if Frozen will even get 39 of these on their first allocation? If not I might have to bight the bullet and get it straight from Phanteks, even though Frozen would be a lot cheaper. How much was shipping from Phanteks?
Click to expand...

Thanks for letting me know. I hope you guys that pre-ordered get your cases shipped out soon, especially considering the premium you are paying. I might have to bite the bullet and order from Phanteks too, since they are most likely to have it the soonest. I was trying to see if Amazon would get this soon, but it doesn't seem likely.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mixman*
> 
> Thanks for letting me know. I hope you guys that pre-ordered get your cases shipped out soon, especially considering the premium you are paying. I might have to bite the bullet and order from Phanteks too, since they are most likely to have it the soonest. I was trying to see if Amazon would get this soon, but it doesn't seem likely.


newegg has posted a new ETA of Tuesday 10/22/2013

I love working with Mark, Bucky and the guys at FrozenCPU, but $42.85 in shipping + 21.62 in tax for me is a $45 premium over newegg.

More Good news / Bad news

Good News ..... Mushkin corporate hooked me up with one of their distributors who managed to secure me some DDR3-2400 CAS 10-12-12-28 RAM

Bad news ... delaying the order waiting for the Enthoo cost me $80 due to post Hynix fire price increases.


----------



## jassilamba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> newegg has posted a new ETA of Tuesday 10/22/2013
> 
> I love working with Mark, Bucky and the guys at FrozenCPU, but $42.85 in shipping + 21.62 in tax for me is a $45 premium over newegg.
> 
> More Good news / Bad news
> 
> Good News ..... Mushkin corporate hooked me up with one of their distributors who managed to secure me some DDR3-2400 CAS 10-12-12-28 RAM
> 
> Bad news ... delaying the order waiting for the Enthoo cost me $80 due to post Hynix fire price increases.


Well Frozen is including some cool stuff with their orders, not much but its something.

Depending on how far you are from Frozen, you might just make a little road trip out of it.


----------



## mixman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *mixman*
> 
> Thanks for letting me know. I hope you guys that pre-ordered get your cases shipped out soon, especially considering the premium you are paying. I might have to bite the bullet and order from Phanteks too, since they are most likely to have it the soonest. I was trying to see if Amazon would get this soon, but it doesn't seem likely.
> 
> 
> 
> newegg has posted a new ETA of Tuesday 10/22/2013
> 
> I love working with Mark, Bucky and the guys at FrozenCPU, but $42.85 in shipping + 21.62 in tax for me is a $45 premium over newegg.
> 
> More Good news / Bad news
> 
> Good News ..... Mushkin corporate hooked me up with one of their distributors who managed to secure me some DDR3-2400 CAS 10-12-12-28 RAM
> 
> Bad news ... delaying the order waiting for the Enthoo cost me $80 due to post Hynix fire price increases.
Click to expand...

Is that $42.85 shipping for ground or for a faster method? They would only charge me $18.62 ground, no tax for shipping to NJ.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mixman*
> 
> Is that $42.85 shipping for ground or for a faster method? They would only charge me $18.62 ground, no tax for shipping to NJ.


I suspect there may be some miscommunication / misunderstanding in JackNaylorPE's post.

$42.85 is what Phanteks charged for shipping if you pre-ordered through them, and I really have no idea how it's being shipped.

I have no idea what FrozenCPU is charging for shipping, but I'd be surprised if it was the exact same as Phanteks.

Edit:
Still no email or anything letting me know if/when it did get shipped. Makes me wonder if they are going to ship today or not. Perhaps another delay? Or maybe Phanteks isn't going to let us know when they shipped or give a tracking number. I sure hope they do because I'd like to make sure someone is home when my case does come.


----------



## bond32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> I suspect there may be some miscommunication / misunderstanding in JackNaylorPE's post.
> 
> $42.85 is what Phanteks charged for shipping if you pre-ordered through them, and I really have no idea how it's being shipped.
> 
> I have no idea what FrozenCPU is charging for shipping, but I'd be surprised if it was the exact same as Phanteks.


Believe that shipping is USPS Priority and honestly I thought this would be too big for priority. For a few dollars more you can select UPS Ground. In fact, I had selected Priority then realized, even it it actually is USPS priority, they wont deliver it they will just bring me a slip and make me wait even longer to go pick it up. UPS Ground will deliver. Point is, I contacted Phanteks about this and they switched me to UPS Ground.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> I suspect there may be some miscommunication / misunderstanding in JackNaylorPE's post.
> 
> $42.85 is what Phanteks charged for shipping if you pre-ordered through them, and I really have no idea how it's being shipped.
> 
> I have no idea what FrozenCPU is charging for shipping, but I'd be surprised if it was the exact same as Phanteks.
> 
> 
> 
> Believe that shipping is USPS Priority and honestly I thought this would be too big for priority. For a few dollars more you can select UPS Ground. In fact, I had selected Priority then realized, even it it actually is USPS priority, they wont deliver it they will just bring me a slip and make me wait even longer to go pick it up. UPS Ground will deliver. Point is, I contacted Phanteks about this and they switched me to UPS Ground.
Click to expand...

Weird. I was never given any options in shipping like priority or whatnot, just that flat fee was the only choice and it didn't say what/how. I paused my order at that point and the live chat person at Phanteks had no idea either, just that that was the charge for shipping, so I went ahead with my order.

I ordered mine the very first day - first hour I do believe - that Phanteks offered the pre-orders. Evidently they made some changes to their shipping options afterward is all I can figure.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jassilamba*
> 
> Well Frozen is including some cool stuff with their orders, not much but its something.
> 
> Depending on how far you are from Frozen, you might just make a little road trip out of it.


I'll be there within a week after case arrives. My Frozen parts list is $2100 .... I expect lunch outta the deal when I visit









Still need to confirm a few things ....like the reservoir issue ... d*id ya see my post on that one ? Post No 676*
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> I suspect there may be some miscommunication / misunderstanding in JackNaylorPE's post.
> 
> $42.85 is what Phanteks charged for shipping if you pre-ordered through them, and I really have no idea how it's being shipped.
> 
> I have no idea what FrozenCPU is charging for shipping, but I'd be surprised if it was the exact same as Phanteks.
> 
> Edit:
> Still no email or anything letting me know if/when it did get shipped. Makes me wonder if they are going to ship today or not. Perhaps another delay? Or maybe Phanteks isn't going to let us know when they shipped or give a tracking number. I sure hope they do because I'd like to make sure someone is home when my case does come.


My bad.... the format or the order looked very "Frozenish" .... since it was ina frozen related post, I incorrectly assumed it was frozens

Phanteks is gonna take a black eye on this...... As I said earlier, delays have cost me $80 in RAM price increases, my monitor has gone up $50., CPU is up $20 since I made my parts list...... there's no excuse the failure to communicate with you guys who pre-ordered.


----------



## Hereisphilly

I've realised that in my hunt for getting the maximum amount of rads into the case I've totally missed the 140 space at the back!

Looking at the photos, it looks like I can fit a 30mm thick one, but if I have my 420 up top with the outlets at the rear of the case, I'm not sure if I have enough space to connect the top rad up...


----------



## jassilamba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> Feedback please on these options:
> 
> a. Remove the rear fan and mount externally ....install Aqualis Pro or XSPC photon on rear wall. Since I don't have fancy EVGA SLI Badge, wanna hide that thing anyway
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> b. As above but on back side of HD cages or 5.25 bays (would hide what bracket supposed to hids
> 
> c. Mounting a Photon horizontally above the 280 rad on the bottom ? ***** to bleed but problems other than that ?
> 
> Reservoirs wont have pumps to deal with as the 35x2 will be mounted under you HD cage (lower one removed). I like the Aqualis and Photon cause they only 2 I know of not made of acrylic. But they do look like a PITA to do rigid tubing with with the inlet / outlet so close.
> 
> Alternate ideas welcome.
> 
> B. Availability - Newegg has gone into NSA mode on the Enthoo ... now says "sold out" and customer service isn't talking.


Are you hell bent to install a 280 rad in the bottom? Will you be willing to replace that with a 360? If yes then I have an idea that will work.

Since I already had the radiators that I used in the enthoo build I mounted my res the way I did. If I was to start from scratch, I would put a 360 monsta rad in the bottom, and a 480 rad in the top. With that I would have made my build look something like this.



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hereisphilly*
> 
> I've realised that in my hunt for getting the maximum amount of rads into the case I've totally missed the 140 space at the back!
> 
> Looking at the photos, it looks like I can fit a 30mm thick one, but if I have my 420 up top with the outlets at the rear of the case, I'm not sure if I have enough space to connect the top rad up...


Just make sure that you have the ports on the rear rad facing down, and not up. But wait till you get the case and the top rad installed before getting something else.


----------



## Hereisphilly

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jassilamba*
> 
> Just make sure that you have the ports on the rear rad facing down, and not up. But wait till you get the case and the top rad installed before getting something else.


Cool good idea, think I'm going to bite the bullet on the xt45 420 now, just gives me that piece of mind if I ever change my mobo, and then I'll have everything there waiting for the case!

Investigating delidding and running a naked ivy precise Mount with my ek supremacy, has anyone here delidded?


----------



## jassilamba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hereisphilly*
> 
> Cool good idea, think I'm going to bite the bullet on the xt45 420 now, just gives me that piece of mind if I ever change my mobo, and then I'll have everything there waiting for the case!
> 
> Investigating delidding and running a naked ivy precise Mount with my ek supremacy, has anyone here delidded?


Use the vise method for delidding, pretty safe compared to the blade method, I think its a great idea to run the chip naked, specially if its an Ivy or Haswell. Otherwise you will not get any major benefits from water cooling.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jassilamba*
> 
> Are you hell bent to install a 280 rad in the bottom? Will you be willing to replace that with a 360? If yes then I have an idea that will work.


Thaanks... well thought out there.

I wouldn't say hell bent but I did want to hide the pump .... it's a nice pump but it aint perty

AutoCAD has lousy image export tools but DWG -> PDF -> JPG works well enuff. But this is what I was considering.


----------



## bond32

Mine shipped! Just got the email with tracking!


----------



## solowarrior

Yeah! My Finally shipped....


----------



## dsmwookie

Mine was shipped as well.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Congratulations guys !


----------



## jassilamba

Can't wait to see some great builds guys. Congratulations guys.


----------



## skupples

Epic!!! I'm starting to regret not just waiting! Though, it really would of been waaaay to tight of a squeeze for what i'm planning...

I can't wait to see some sick builds!! Now NewEgg just needs to list Rive:BE


----------



## bond32

Question - the led 2 pin female connection, is that 12 volts?


----------



## doyll

Container of Primos'


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *solowarrior*
> 
> Yeah! My Finally shipped....


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dsmwookie*
> 
> Mine was shipped as well.


Yeah got my email too, but the tracking number they have linked, when I click the link, UPS says it is an invalid format. It starts with the 1z, and has the proper number of digits, but there's a letter instead of a number near the middle that UPS says can't be right.








Quote:


> > The number you entered is not a valid tracking number (e.g. typical format is 1Z9999999999999999). Review the number provided or contact the sender to verify the number.


Sent off an email to Phanteks support to see if they can tell me what the deal is.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> Question - the led 2 pin female connection, is that 12 volts?


Yes. It's a 12v input/output. The fan LEDs are max 100mA, and the molex output is 1A max.


----------



## bond32

Oh my goodness... This case is all that and a bag of chips. Thanks for the diagram. I got some $6 LED strips in and put a molex on them, was thinking I would need to somehow put a 2 pin connector on them or solder them to the case connector.


----------



## bond32

Any idea on the spacing of the hole locations on the pump bracket?

Edit: NVM found it in the manual.


----------



## dsmwookie

Anyone have good sources on led replacement?


----------



## jassilamba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dsmwookie*
> 
> Anyone have good sources on led replacement?


which ones do you want to replace?

This is what I used to replace the power switch LED.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/310702259554?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649


----------



## dsmwookie

The strips front and back. I just don't care for the not quite white and not quite blue led.

Looking to order some pastels and an extra rad to make things match.


----------



## jassilamba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dsmwookie*
> 
> The strips front and back. I just don't care for the not quite white and not quite blue led.
> 
> Looking to order some pastels and an extra rad to make things match.


You need 12V, and the strip can be no wider than 6mm. The cover on the LED strips is smoked, white and blue will look a little off.


----------



## solowarrior

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Yeah got my email too, but the tracking number they have linked, when I click the link, UPS says it is an invalid format. It starts with the 1z, and has the proper number of digits, but there's a letter instead of a number near the middle that UPS says can't be right.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent off an email to Phanteks support to see if they can tell me what the deal is.
> 
> Hi Unic,
> 
> Phanteks just got back to me with this..."We apologize for the inconvenience. It appears the tracking number for your order has entered incorrectly. Your tracking number is..." It gets delivered on the 24th.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Lucky you .... you get the weekend to play. Newegg still not talking but if information holds from before the "communications blackout", we're looking at deliveries on 25th or 27th.....25th would give us the weekend .... 27th would suck


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *solowarrior*
> 
> Hi Unic,
> 
> Phanteks just got back to me with this..."We apologize for the inconvenience. It appears the tracking number for your order has entered incorrectly. Your tracking number is..." It gets delivered on the 24th.


Yep, same here. I had to change the delivery option to 'hold for pickup' as I wouldn't be home later in the day on thur 24th when they would be likely to try to deliver it, and it's going to require a signature (not that I would want it just left on the doorstep anyway), but I will be driving not far from the UPS facility early that morning, so as it turns out I should have my case first thing Thur morn.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jassilamba*
> 
> Just make sure that you have the ports on the rear rad facing down, and not up. But wait till you get the case and the top rad installed before getting something else.


Since you have been in there .... how hard would it be to get the fill and air bleed ports in as I showed in the image on Post #700 ?

Radiator Top Port - Male x Female Extender - Plug Fitting

Seems it would be be easier with ports towards the front but that would prolly require a reservoir mounted off back of 5.25 cages


----------



## Hereisphilly

Another generic watercooling query from me I'm afraid, does anyone know if my Alphacool d5 vario with Alphacool pump top is man enough for my loop?

It will contain:
Ek supremacy
2x Alphacool 680 water blocks in series
420 Xt45 rad
280 monsta rad
240 xt45 rad
Quite a few right angle fittings and 1/2" Id tubing


----------



## bond32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hereisphilly*
> 
> Another generic watercooling query from me I'm afraid, does anyone know if my Alphacool d5 vario with Alphacool pump top is man enough for my loop?
> 
> It will contain:
> Ek supremacy
> 2x Alphacool 680 water blocks in series
> 420 Xt45 rad
> 280 monsta rad
> 240 xt45 rad
> Quite a few right angle fittings and 1/2" Id tubing


Seems that may be a bit much, just watch temps. 2 Pumps for that would be ideal.

Edit: Just keep in mind, consider it a closed loop - closed loops have zero static head, therefore the only head the pump needs to overcome is friction. The GPU blocks are the most restrictive, I dont think radiators are very restrictive, then the angle fittings.


----------



## Hereisphilly

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> Seems that may be a bit much, just watch temps. 2 Pumps for that would be ideal.
> 
> Edit: Just keep in mind, consider it a closed loop - closed loops have zero static head, therefore the only head the pump needs to overcome is friction. The GPU blocks are the most restrictive, I dont think radiators are very restrictive, then the angle fittings.


Thanks, I just cant find any concrete evidence To work it out
What temps would you consider bad enough to warrant running dual pumps?
The supremacy is meant to have quite low flow restriction, I can't find any data on the GPU blocks, and they were unfortunately the only ones I could get within budget and had the option for backplates


----------



## bond32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hereisphilly*
> 
> Thanks, I just cant find any concrete evidence To work it out
> What temps would you consider bad enough to warrant running dual pumps?
> The supremacy is meant to have quite low flow restriction, I can't find any data on the GPU blocks, and they were unfortunately the only ones I could get within budget and had the option for backplates


Generally all GPU blocks are the most restrictive. If it were me, I would set everything up and run some things at stock to see what temps you get. I have no idea what the 680 temps should be, but if I had to guess I would say around 45 degrees C on the core would be normal.

At one time, I had my loop as 3x 7950 heatkiller blocks, 1x 360 rad, 1x 240 rad, 1x 120 rad, and 1 xspc raystorm cpu block. All that ran fine off 1 D5, but I ran it at full speed.


----------



## jassilamba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hereisphilly*
> 
> Thanks, I just cant find any concrete evidence To work it out
> What temps would you consider bad enough to warrant running dual pumps?
> The supremacy is meant to have quite low flow restriction, I can't find any data on the GPU blocks, and they were unfortunately the only ones I could get within budget and had the option for backplates


If you want I can mail you martins pump and rad optimizer. That will help you determine if the pump will work or not. (PM me you email address)


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jassilamba*
> 
> If you want I can mail you martins pump and rad optimizer. That will help you determine if the pump will work or not. (PM me you email address)


Check ya mail









I used his Rad tool on the archive site .... basically.....if ya use info from the new site and calculate, and you get about 10C .... you'll get the 5C using the old tool. Martin explained the difference was due to a change in testing parameters. Basically the new method eliminates the radiation from sides, tubing and the rest of the loop.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jassilamba*
> 
> Just make sure that you have the ports on the rear rad facing down, and not up. But wait till you get the case and the top rad installed before getting something else.


*Fill / Bleed Ports* - Jesse, since you have been in there .... how hard would it be to get the fill and air bleed ports in as I showed in the image on Post #700 ?

Radiator Top Port - Male x Female Extender - Plug Fitting

Seems it would be be easier with ports towards the front but that would prolly require a reservoir mounted off back of 5.25 cages


----------



## skupples

If you are looking into dual pumps, I really like my mcp35x2... It's a beast, have yet to have to run it on anything but it's lowest setting. You may be surprised how little turning up pump speed effects temp.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

I'm planning on the 35x2 .... did you use the stand ?

My plan is to mount it on the pump skid in the Enthoo, take out the lower HD cage and fit it in there....prolly have to make my own mounting plate though ... or pair of plates with some fopam in between for vibration isolation

Cupla questions if so:

- How high is it ?

- I was gonna use a thermal pad to conduct the heat to the heat sink and dampen noise a bit .... suggestions ?

- Anything I didn't think of ?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jassilamba*
> 
> Use the vise method for delidding, pretty safe compared to the blade method, I think its a great idea to run the chip naked, specially if its an Ivy or Haswell. Otherwise you will not get any major benefits from water cooling.


It occurred to me that that goop holding the IHS down should get softened up by some pre-heating with a hair dryer .... think there's anything to it ?

I'm a little hesitant to use the CLU stuff .... I remember when looking into it years back, removal method involved sandpaper . Thinking that if ya had to re-apply, this would be problematic.


----------



## skupples

No, I do how ever have the heatsink+maelstrom sitting on my shelf ready to go into my 900D rebuild when Rive:BE finally drops.

Ohh, the stand comes with the heatsink! Just now broke the seal.... If you need any specifics on it, let me know!

I have the little fan too. going to be a tight squeeze in the front of my 900D... p/p UT60 + 360 rad in front + maelstrom w/ heatsink... I don't think that's all going to fit... lol!

As to the whole delidding thing.... The biggest improvement is made when properly removing the silicone glue that's used to hold the two together, by most accounts this is what causes the biggest issue. Running the dye naked is by far the best way to do it for temp reduction. It can also be dangerous and requires modification of the socket because you are using the waterblock to hold chip in place. I saw around ~10-15 degree drop in temp, and I still have the IHS on. (3570k)

as to clu... I HAVE NEVER HAD TO USE SANDPAPER... Invest in some HARDCORE cleaner like Indigo Extreme CLEANER, or the similar product from Arctic silver. Indigo extreme clean is some crazy good stuff, it dissolves the "Engineered Thermal Interface" like butter.

Make sure you get CoolLabs Liquid ULTRA, NOT LIQUID PRO. Ultra is the newer of the two products, and is much easier to apply & remove. By most accounts CLU is the best damned thermal solution for delidding. Lot's of tests have been done with other solutions.


----------



## Hereisphilly

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> Generally all GPU blocks are the most restrictive. If it were me, I would set everything up and run some things at stock to see what temps you get. I have no idea what the 680 temps should be, but if I had to guess I would say around 45 degrees C on the core would be normal.
> 
> At one time, I had my loop as 3x 7950 heatkiller blocks, 1x 360 rad, 1x 240 rad, 1x 120 rad, and 1 xspc raystorm cpu block. All that ran fine off 1 D5, but I ran it at full speed.


Cool, 45 degrees is my target then, thanks!
I was linking if I did need to move to two pumps, then I would move away from the tube res and separate d5, and go with that Alphacool bay res that accepts two d5s at the back with the cool fillport on the front that pulls out
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jassilamba*
> 
> If you want I can mail you martins pump and rad optimizer. That will help you determine if the pump will work or not.
> (PM me you email address)


Many thanks! Pm'd you


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Ohh, the stand comes with the heatsink! Just now broke the seal.... If you need any specifics on it, let me know! ...... I have the little fan too. going to be a tight squeeze in the front of my 900D.


The stand **is** the heatsink







Yes, Id love to know how high it is with the pump on the stand.



I was thinking of using a thermal pad between the Heatsink and Pump. And then making a "plate sandwich" for vibration isolation. Kinda like the "Shoggy Sandwich"



Since Pump" looks" bigger than skid gonna have to use larger plate on top there, drill holes and affix feet to top plate

Then again, I imagine Phanteks put some thoiught into isolation with the skid, so maybe not necessary.

The "pad" in Enthoo is 78.5mm square
The foot print of the stand / heatsink is 126mm x 80mm

So will probably make a 136mm x 90mm plate w/ two sets of drilled holes, ine to match the skid and one to match the legs.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> As to the whole delidding thing.... The biggest improvement is made when properly removing the silicone glue that's used to hold the two together, by most accounts this is what causes the biggest issue. Running the dye naked is by far the best way to do it for temp reduction. It can also be dangerous and requires modification of the socket because you are using the waterblock to hold chip in place. I saw around ~10-15 degree drop in temp, and I still have the IHS on. (3570k).....as to clu... I HAVE NEVER HAD TO USE SANDPAPER... Invest in some HARDCORE cleaner like Indigo Extreme CLEANER, or the similar product from Arctic silver. Indigo extreme clean is some crazy good stuff, it dissolves the "Engineered Thermal Interface" like butter.


In the reviews I have seen, Pro always seems to get better temps but Ultra is listed as easier to spread and easier to get off

I have never used but was put off by comments such as these from Frozen....
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/10740/thr-77/Coollaboratory_Liquid_Ultra_100_Metal_Thermal_Interface_Material.html?tl=g8c127s451
Quote:


> At first on my laptop it worked really well, but, Coollaboratory Liquid Ultra isn''t all that good after a year of hard use of nearly 24/7 at about 85 Celsius. In fact, it completely hardens / dries. On my X9100 after 9 months I started seeing high temps and after 1 year auto shut downs while crunching. Turns out it was shutting off because it hit the 105 C thermal protection. Opened it up; thermal compound was as hard as a rock. has to pocket knife blade and sand it down. So for longevity it sucks.


http://www.frozencpu.com/products/reviews/3784/thr-26/p1/Coollaboratory_Liquid_PRO_Thermal_Interface_Material-Page1.html?tl=g8c127s451
Quote:


> Without a doubt this [Pro] is the best TIM I''ve ever used, but beware, if you''re one like me who rebuilds their system every few months, this is not for you. Once its hardened on your CPU and cooler, you will need to lap both surfaces to get them clean and smooth again. This stuff is great, but it just isn''t for me.


Based upon ya experience, I think I will give the Ultra try. I hope it's easy to get off tho..... I plan on doing this build in 4 phases between now and XMas.

1. Stock Parts (Intel Stick Air Cooler)
2. 3rd party Air Cooler
3. Water Cooled Build
4. Delidded Water Cooled Build

I just wanna see what I get performance wise outta each step....and that's why I wanna make sure to use something ez to remove

BTW, two questions for ya......

1. What EK Supremacy Water Block ya gonna use with the Nekid Ivy ? Looking at the video review by singularity it would seem to me that teh bloakc would perform better rotated 90 degrees so that the fins inside ran parallel with the long length of the naked CPU

2. What TIM ya use on GPU Blocks .....

I had my heart set on the Asus GTX 770 Poseidons .... but not a word since Comdex back in June. So now with 780 GTi about to drop I'm wondering if that will be its debut..... never did a WB on a GPU and haven't as yet done mush research on which manufacturer's have proven most reliable, WB manufacturer's backplate or card manufacturers ..... tubing or bridge.


----------



## skupples

hmm... I won't be able to tell you the combined height until I tear this tower down in november, but I can tell you that it comes with two thermal pads to sammich them together as you suggested. you should be able to get the different figures from Swiftech and add it up though. The whole coollabs thing I just read about hardening scares the hell out of me though. I'm using it between all my waterblocks (titans & 3570k) and just picked up two more tubes (one of which has leaked a bit) for my rebuild. I'm literally going to cry if I have to chip away @ my dye's... That being said, I have faith that my bottle of Indigo Extreme Clean will do it's job.

Edit: He say's he was pushing insane temp's... My gpu's never break 50, and my cpu never breaks 60... Hopefully i'm in the clear. I'll be using Indigo Extreme ETI for my 3930k, it's too bad the strips are not one size fit's all. I literally have 100$ worth of them for 3570k sized chips.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Dang.... storming here so submitted message before I was done .... you were too quick for me .....you answered before I finished edits









Swiftech has no height dimension on stand ..... only the sink.... well I know the height of the pump, if ya get curios and play with the stand.... I can add


----------



## Hereisphilly

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> BTW, two questions for ya......
> 
> 1. What EK Supremacy Water Block ya gonna use with the Nekid Ivy ? Looking at the video review by singularity it would seem to me that teh bloakc would perform better rotated 90 degrees so that the fins inside ran parallel with the long length of the naked CPU
> 
> 2. What TIM ya use on GPU Blocks .....
> 
> I had my heart set on the Asus GTX 770 Poseidons .... but not a word since Comdex back in June. So now with 780 GTi about to drop I'm wondering if that will be its debut..... never did a WB on a GPU and haven't as yet done mush research on which manufacturer's have proven most reliable, WB manufacturer's backplate or card manufacturers ..... tubing or bridge.


Looking at the water block roundup on xtremereviews, rotating the supracy 90 degrees ccw does improve temps, so I'm going to go for that

I have the copper base and clean black acetal top variant, I got a very good deal on it, it looks great and all my other blocks and rads are copper, so I wanted my nimise the use of nickel wherever possible

For GPU paste, my 680s have some reistors or something around the edge of the die, therecore I wanted to use a non conductive Tim
I have a big tube of Arctic mx-4, so I'm just going to use that for the GPUs, and the bundled gelid GC extreme for my bare CPU die


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> [...]
> *Fill / Bleed Ports* - Jesse, since you have been in there .... how hard would it be to get the fill and air bleed ports in as I showed in the image on Post #700 ?
> 
> Radiator Top Port - Male x Female Extender - Plug Fitting
> 
> Seems it would be be easier with ports towards the front but that would prolly require a reservoir mounted off back of 5.25 cages


That's exactly how I'll be doing my fill ports, as I had posted some many posts back now. I'm actually planning on putting one for each of the top-facing ports on my 480 rad, as I suspect it will be easier to fill if I have one port for filling and one to let air escape out of. I have a klein knockout punch set so I suspect it won't be too hard for me to put a couple clean 1" holes wherever I want them for these .8" ID grommets:
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/4328/ele-229/PVC_Rubber_Grommet_-_08125_ID_Hole.html?id=5BLerN5a&mv_pc=102
Though you could probably do holes just as well with a hole-saw drill bit if you're careful to use painter's tape, drill a pilot hole, etc.

I also have a small G1/4 threaded funnel to be able to screw into one of the extensions to help make filling easier.

In addition I'm also hoping to be able to mount my lower 360 monsta rad with the inlet/outlet ports towards the front of the case so that the monsta's drain port would face the back and I can also put a hole right through the back of the case with a grommet for an extension to poke through to use as a drain - though I'm not sure that's going to be a possibility or not yet as to how the fan/rad mounting holes in the bottom of the case are located or not.

If need be I can always just mount the rad the other way, with the inlet/outlet ports to the rear, and in that case I'll probably just use one of the rear facing ports the same way. The only thing about doing it that way is is would only drain the upper half of that lower rad without some serious tipping of the case, but that shouldn't be a huge deal I don't suspect. Maybe even get away with putting a fitting in one of the downward facing ports instead so that I might be able to drain it right out of the bottom of the case with the bottom air filter removed so I can drain the loop completely that way, but I dunno. I won't be able to solidify what exactly I'll be doing until I get my hands on the case.


----------



## OutlawII

Waiting patiently for this case! So while im waiting was thinking about rinsing out my new Rads and waterblocks,do u guys think they will get rusty if i clean them out and they sit a week before they are installed?


----------



## bond32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OutlawII*
> 
> Waiting patiently for this case! So while im waiting was thinking about rinsing out my new Rads and waterblocks,do u guys think they will get rusty if i clean them out and they sit a week before they are installed?


I cleaned mine and they have been sitting for a week or so now, just cap them or run a short hose on the ends to cap it.


----------



## OutlawII

Thanks dude just posted in the H2O section also.


----------



## bond32

I got the Primochill Primo flex tubing and it says you need to run the cleaner in it. I let it run through the new tubing and all my components for at least 24 hours as instructed then just capped the rads. Also gave me time to clean my cpu block good.

Fingers crossed for an earlier delivery, possibly Wednesday!


----------



## OutlawII

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> I got the Primochill Primo flex tubing and it says you need to run the cleaner in it. I let it run through the new tubing and all my components for at least 24 hours as instructed then just capped the rads. Also gave me time to clean my cpu block good.
> 
> Fingers crossed for an earlier delivery, possibly Wednesday!


Interesting i got the same tubing but the advanced,yep waiting for this case is killin me!


----------



## Hereisphilly

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OutlawII*
> 
> Interesting i got the same tubing but the advanced,yep waiting for this case is killin me!


Same! I've got 1/2" advanced in white, I didnt know you had to flush it?


----------



## bond32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hereisphilly*
> 
> Same! I've got 1/2" advanced in white, I didnt know you had to flush it?


There's some that don't, the first round of it I bought I didn't flush it. I had a little bit of plasticizer in the tubing. Figured since I have all my loop components outside might as well run the cleaner. Mine is the yellow 1/2" tubing to match my msi board and 780 lightning.


----------



## Hereisphilly

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> There's some that don't, the first round of it I bought I didn't flush it. I had a little bit of plasticizer in the tubing. Figured since I have all my loop components outside might as well run the cleaner. Mine is the yellow 1/2" tubing to match my msi board and 780 lightning.


Ah yeah I remember! Cool, do u know where I can find out if I need to flush mine?
Is yours quite stiff? Mine is ridiculously stiff!


----------



## bond32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hereisphilly*
> 
> Ah yeah I remember! Cool, do u know where I can find out if I need to flush mine?
> Is yours quite stiff? Mine is ridiculously stiff!


Yeah mine is stiff. The stuff came with mine, I ordered the retail box 2 meter. Not sure where you could get some, you may be able to flush it with just distilled water.


----------



## Hereisphilly

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> Yeah mine is stiff. The stuff came with mine, I ordered the retail box 2 meter. Not sure where you could get some, you may be able to flush it with just distilled water.


Ahh cool, I can see bending it being interesting
Naah, I just got a 3 metre length from specialtech, so I think I might just wash it out with distilled water, best I can do really isn't it?


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hereisphilly*
> 
> Looking at the water block roundup on xtremereviews, rotating the supracy 90 degrees ccw does improve temps, so I'm going to go for that
> 
> I have the copper base and clean black acetal top variant, I got a very good deal on it, it looks great and all my other blocks and rads are copper, so I wanted my nimise the use of nickel wherever possible


I'll go peek..... I'm also down for the copper ..... thought about the gold .... was like $16 price difference, but adding naked ivy kinda wastes that.

Haven't decided on the top yet......Plexi or solid copper. I notice that there are two versions of each type, I'm opting for the CSQ version (no circles).
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hereisphilly*
> 
> For GPU paste, my 680s have some reistors or something around the edge of the die, therecore I wanted to use a non conductive Tim
> I have a big tube of Arctic mx-4, so I'm just going to use that for the GPUs, and the bundled gelid GC extreme for my bare CPU die


The GeLid did very well in this massive 80 way test .... but it's 4.5 years old .... ranks right up there with ShinEtsu 751 which is what I have used primarily last few over the years. I highly suspect MX-4 and TX-4 are the same thing

I am kinda surprised that there are no full copper GU blocks, at least that I have found

http://archive.benchmarkreviews.com/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=150&Itemid=62&limit=1&limitstart=12
Quote:


> Tuniq TX-3 (0) Aluminum Oxide Moderate 37.65°C A+
> Gelid GC-Extreme (0) Aluminum Oxide Low / Thin 37.65°C A+
> Thermaltake Grease A2150 (4) Polysynthetic Silver Low / Thin 37.65°C A+
> Arctic Silver 5 Polysynthetic Thermal Compound (4) Polysynthetic Silver Low / Thin 37.55°C A+
> Shin-Etsu MicroSi G751 (0) Aluminum Oxide Moderate 37.55°C A+
> 
> (0) No Curing Time or Special Application Suggested
> (4) Arctic Silver 5 Application Instructions (up to 200-hours recommended curing time)


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OutlawII*
> 
> Waiting patiently for this case! So while im waiting was thinking about rinsing out my new Rads and waterblocks,do u guys think they will get rusty if i clean them out and they sit a week before they are installed?


Could leave filled with DW if ya worried.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> That's exactly how I'll be doing my fill ports, as I had posted some many posts back now. I'm actually planning on putting one for each of the top-facing ports on my 480 rad, as I suspect it will be easier to fill if I have one port for filling and one to let air escape out of. I have a klein knockout punch set so I suspect it won't be too hard for me to put a couple clean 1" holes wherever I want them for these .8" ID grommets:
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/4328/ele-229/PVC_Rubber_Grommet_-_08125_ID_Hole.html?id=5BLerN5a&mv_pc=102
> Though you could probably do holes just as well with a hole-saw drill bit if you're careful to use painter's tape, drill a pilot hole, etc.


I was planning on the fill port bulkhead fitting with screw in plug originally

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/10364/ex-tub-608/Bitspower_G14_Female_Female_Pass-Through_Fitting_-_Fillport_-_Matte_Black_BP-MBWP-C04.html
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/10362/ex-tub-610/Bitspower_G14_Low_Profile_Matte_Black_Stop_Plug_w_O-Ring_BP-MBWP-C09.html

But then said ....wait a minute...... the penetration will be under the top cover ..... so can just have this bigger stick up from top of rad into the little area where ya pull fans go ..... cutting only if necessary .... and since will be hidden, no need for bulkhead fitting
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/12336/ex-tub-773/Bitspower_G14_Male_to_Female_Extender_-_20mm_-_Matte_Black_BP-MBWP-C61.html?tl=c101s1354b145
Quote:


> I also have a small G1/4 threaded funnel to be able to screw into one of the extensions to help make filling easier.


That was my plan also .... new plan is take a 48 oz square plastic jug and install a bulkhead fitting and valve. Take a length of flexible tubing w/ G1/4 end and screw into fill port. For the air bleed, will use a 12" riser of rigid tube with valve on top
Quote:


> In addition I'm also hoping to be able to mount my lower 360 monsta rad with the inlet/outlet ports towards the front of the case so that the monsta's drain port would face the back and I can also put a hole right through the back of the case with a grommet for an extension to poke through to use as a drain - though I'm not sure that's going to be a possibility or not yet as to how the fan/rad mounting holes in the bottom of the case are located or not.


I was thinking this .... come off the drain port w/ a rotating 90 and a quick disconnect (or valve with plug if ya dont trust QD)........for everyday use rotate the 90 pointing up. When ya wanna drain, take off side panel, rotate the 90 so it sticks out of case and a lil downwards .... attach the other side of QD w/ cupla feet of flex tube
Quote:


> If need be I can always just mount the rad the other way, with the inlet/outlet ports to the rear, and in that case I'll probably just use one of the rear facing ports the same way. The only thing about doing it that way is is would only drain the upper half of that lower rad without some serious tipping of the case, but that shouldn't be a huge deal I don't suspect. Maybe even get away with putting a fitting in one of the downward facing ports instead so that I might be able to drain it right out of the bottom of the case with the bottom air filter removed so I can drain the loop completely that way, but I dunno. I won't be able to solidify what exactly I'll be doing until I get my hands on the case.


yeah same here.... if it arrives Friday, will have the weekend to play ... will be pissed if it takes till Monday


----------



## jassilamba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> Check ya mail
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I used his Rad tool on the archive site .... basically.....if ya use info from the new site and calculate, and you get about 10C .... you'll get the 5C using the old tool. Martin explained the difference was due to a change in testing parameters. Basically the new method eliminates the radiation from sides, tubing and the rest of the loop.
> *Fill / Bleed Ports* - Jesse, since you have been in there .... how hard would it be to get the fill and air bleed ports in as I showed in the image on Post #700 ?
> 
> Radiator Top Port - Male x Female Extender - Plug Fitting
> 
> Seems it would be be easier with ports towards the front but that would prolly require a reservoir mounted off back of 5.25 cages


I personally like to make sure that my pump is always getting fluid from the res, But the way you have it planned that should work. You might have to tilt the case a bit to force water flow when filling. Will take longer than expected but pretty doable.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hereisphilly*
> 
> Cool, 45 degrees is my target then, thanks!
> I was linking if I did need to move to two pumps, then I would move away from the tube res and separate d5, and go with that Alphacool bay res that accepts two d5s at the back with the cool fillport on the front that pulls out
> Many thanks! Pm'd you


You've got mail, let me know if you need any help with that.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hereisphilly*
> 
> Same! I've got 1/2" advanced in white, I didnt know you had to flush it?


Always flush your water cooling gear with distilled water. Wash with tap water, then fill blocks and rads with distilled water, shake, drain. Rinse and repeat with distilled water. Clean loop is a happy loop.


----------



## Hereisphilly

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jassilamba*
> 
> I personally like to make sure that my pump is always getting fluid from the res, But the way you have it planned that should work. You might have to tilt the case a bit to force water flow when filling. Will take longer than expected but pretty doable.
> You've got mail, let me know if you need any help with that.
> Always flush your water cooling gear with distilled water. Wash with tap water, then fill blocks and rads with distilled water, shake, drain. Rinse and repeat with distilled water. Clean loop is a happy loop.


Yeah its big help! As i said in my mail, i think i'm going to get away with it, as long as i run my pup on a high speed setting. Will just have to wait and see!

I knew i had to do the rads, but you are saying do the blocks and tubing aswell?
So basically run it through with tap water (but don't keep it in there long?), then fill with distilled and shake about, then drain.
Then repeat
Would you recommend doing the tubing in one long bit or wait till its cut to lengths to suit the stuff in the case?


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jassilamba*
> 
> I personally like to make sure that my pump is always getting fluid from the res, But the way you have it planned that should work. You might have to tilt the case a bit to force water flow when filling. Will take longer than expected but pretty doable. .


Bettah ?











Since we talking about filling loops ..... I always wondered about this..... Ya fill a funnel, turn on pump let it drain, fill a funnel .... rinse and repeat. Why have I never seen a youtube video where...

1. Install a fill port on the system



2. Install another one, (though Id like something with a bigger flange here) on a plastic wide mouth jar neat the bottom with a valve and barb and short piece of flex tubing. Something like this

http://www.uline.com/Product/Detail/S-15709/Jars-Jugs-and-Bottles/48-oz-Clear-Grip-Jars

3. Connect to fill port and let drain by gravity, letting air out somewhere else till suction floods.

4. Turn on pump (on and off as necessary) . With a liter+ sized jar above (just under 1.5 liters) , this should make the process a lot easier.

In fact i wonder if putting the jug cap on a squeezing the jar (maybe even tap jar cap with air connection and small 6" hand pump ?) would be enough to fill the loop.


----------



## jassilamba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> Bettah ?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since we talking about filling loops ..... I always wondered about this..... Ya fill a funnel, turn on pump let it drain, fill a funnel .... rinse and repeat. Why have I never seen a youtube video where...
> 
> 1. Install a fill port on the system
> 
> 
> 
> 2. Install another one, (though Id like something with a bigger flange here) on a plastic wide mouth jar neat the bottom with a valve and barb and short piece of flex tubing. Something like this
> 
> http://www.uline.com/Product/Detail/S-15709/Jars-Jugs-and-Bottles/48-oz-Clear-Grip-Jars
> 
> 3. Connect to fill port and let drain by gravity, letting air out somewhere else till suction floods.
> 
> 4. Turn on pump (on and off as necessary) . With a liter+ sized jar above (just under 1.5 liters) , this should make the process a lot easier.
> 
> In fact i wonder if putting the jug cap on a squeezing the jar (maybe even tap jar cap with air connection and small 6" hand pump ?) would be enough to fill the loop.


I do something similar, but the only issue with that approach is making it water tight. last thing you want is bunch water on your components. But both the ideas that you posted look great and will work like a charm. The way you have it, when you pour water it will fill up the res, and some of the lower rad. My loop is running on about half a gallon of distilled water.


----------



## Hereisphilly

Should a fillport be at the top of any point in a loop, or does it just help?
Cos I have a tube res that I'm hoping to mount on the res bracket, and I was just going to fill it up with one of these through the top
http://www.watercoolinguk.co.uk/p/Filling-bottle-1000ml-PE-LD_20804.html
Have I missed something or will that work?


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jassilamba*
> 
> I do something similar, but the only issue with that approach is making it water tight. last thing you want is bunch water on your components. But both the ideas that you posted look great and will work like a charm. The way you have it, when you pour water it will fill up the res, and some of the lower rad. My loop is running on about half a gallon of distilled water.


I'm thinking no pouring.....

1. Buy my gallon of DW ..... pour 750 ml of DW along with 250 ml of Mayems pastel into my "jug".....shakey shakey

2. Screw in free end of tube from jug into G1/4 ..... screw bleed tube into bleeder port

3. Open valve on jug, crack valve on bleeder

4. Read posts on OCN till water level stops dropping.

6. Toggle pump on and off till bleeder tube shows fluid.

7. Close bleeder valve and let pump run till all bubbles gone.

8. Put jug w/ remaniing fluid in closet.


----------



## jassilamba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hereisphilly*
> 
> Should a fillport be at the top of any point in a loop, or does it just help?
> Cos I have a tube res that I'm hoping to mount on the res bracket, and I was just going to fill it up with one of these through the top
> http://www.watercoolinguk.co.uk/p/Filling-bottle-1000ml-PE-LD_20804.html
> Have I missed something or will that work?


I would not get that, to fill a tube res, I just put a barb on the res, put some tubing on it, and stick in a funnel on the other side. Then I just slowly pour.


----------



## Hereisphilly

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jassilamba*
> 
> I would not get that, to fill a tube res, I just put a barb on the res, put some tubing on it, and stick in a funnel on the other side. Then I just slowly pour.


Ahh okay, whys is that?
Is it because it is quite slow, or because I have to reach inside the case to fill?


----------



## jassilamba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hereisphilly*
> 
> Ahh okay, whys is that?
> Is it because it is quite slow, or because I have to reach inside the case to fill?


I like to use cheap solutions for things like these. Nothing wrong in using what you linked to but if you already have something that can do the same for less why not.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

M6F USers take Note: Had some time to look at the MoBo yesterday..... been sitting in dining room table for a few days ..... Cross Chill heatsink on M6F is H U G E..... looks like will be more of an issue than RAM radiator wise .

Rad color - Picturing the build in my mind....the overwhelming color being black ..... thinking may wanna break it up with some splashes of color with colored bands at top and bottom ..... wait will horizontal stripes make my Enthoo build look fat ?







..... anyone ever done before ? Seems easy enough at least with the alpha cool (just shroud BTW like the $20 more white versions but which are not readily available as 140s)

Other Coatings:

a) read comments about the all copper plugs on NexxoS rads attracting fingerprints and discoloring and suggesting a clear coat .... suggestions ?
b) gonna need to fabricate some mounting brackets ..... was thinking about a rubber like coating to reduce any vibration noises ... anyone ever used ?
c) Anyone every painted the plastic cables connectors ? Previously I always replaced them to change colors as I was worried about flaking but was always curious. Instead of paying $0.45 each for these.... I just buy a pack of 30 in Ace Hardware for $2 and paint em.

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/17955/tiw-238/Wire_Management_Cord_Clips_w_Adhesive_16mm_-_Black.html?tl=g2c34s80


----------



## skupples

I have seen allot of people use metal tape to plate rads...

example


----------



## mixman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> M6F USers take Note: Had some time to look at the MoBo yesterday..... been sitting in dining room table for a few days ..... Cross Chill heatsink on M6F is H U G E..... looks like will be more of an issue than RAM radiator wise .


Thinking of getting that combo too M6F and Enthoo. What size rad do you think will fit up top with the M6F.....45mm, 60mm?


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Well what is supposed to fit is:

60mm with one set of fans in top compartment.
45 mm in push pull

It was hoping I might get lucky w/ low placed RAM slots and it might be possible to do a 60 in push pull and was waiting for case to arrive so i could confirm. But the CrossChill HS will hit long before RAM becomes an issue

What else you planning component wise?

My thoughts ..... something changes every day







:

Phanteks Enthoo Primo Ultimate Chassis (Ordered)
Seasonic X-1250 (Wavering)
Asus Maximus VI Formula (Delivered)
Intel 4770k
(2 x 8GB) Muskin CAS 10-12-12-28 DDR3-2400 (finally scored a pair)
2 x Asus GTX 780 DCII OC 3GB (was planning GTX 770 Poseidon but it's like that card was a myth and expecting nice price drop on 780 after 780 Ti gets introduced)
TIM - Undecided
2 x Seagate ST2000DX001 2TB MLC/8GB 7200 RPM 64MB Cache SATA 6.0Gb/s NCQ 3.5" Desktop Solid State Hybrid Drive RAID 1
2 x SAMSUNG 840 Pro Series MZ-7PD256BW 2.5" 256GB RAID 0
Asus Blue Ray Burner (was planning just a player but both same price)
ASUS VG248QE Black 23" 144 Hz Monitor (2 more later)
Logitech G19s 920-004985
ASUS Republic of Gamers GX950 Laser Mouse
Logitech Z5500 (Existing)
Windows 7 64 Bit Professional OEM
Reeven RFC-01 Six Eyes Fan Controller - Black

Pump:
Swiftech Dual Extreme Duty Small Form Factor 12 VDC Industrial PWM Pump - Black (MCP35X2-BK)
Swiftech MCP35x2 Dual Pump Heatsink (MCP35X2-HS)
Noiseblocker NB-BlackSilentPro PC-P 80mm x 15mm Ultra Silent PWM Fan - 2500 RPM

Rads:
Alphacool NexXxoS UT60 Full Copper Double 140mm Radiator
Alphacool NexXxoS XT45 Full Copper Triple 140mm Radiator

Blocks:
EK Supremacy Universal CPU Liquid Cooling Block - Clean Plexi (EK-Supremacy Clean CSQ) - No Circles
EK ASUS GeForce 780 GTX DCII VGA Liquid Cooling Block - Nickel (EK-FC780 GTX DCII - Nickel)
EK ASUS GeForce 780 GTX DCII VGA Liquid Cooling RAM Backplate - Black CSQ (EK-FC780 GTX DCII Backplate - Black)
EK FC Bridge Dual Parallel 3-Slot CSQ - SLI Connection - Acrylic (EK-FC Bridge DUAL Parallel 3-Slot CSQ Plexi)

Reservoir:
Undecided

Tube and Fittings:
E22 Clear Extruded Acrylic Tubing - 12/10mm - 100cm
Bitspower SLI / Crossfire Multi-Link Adapter Pair - Matte Black (BP-MBWP-C47)


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mixman*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> M6F USers take Note: Had some time to look at the MoBo yesterday..... been sitting in dining room table for a few days ..... Cross Chill heatsink on M6F is H U G E..... looks like will be more of an issue than RAM radiator wise .
> 
> 
> 
> Thinking of getting that combo too M6F and Enthoo. What size rad do you think will fit up top with the M6F.....45mm, 60mm?
Click to expand...

There's 70mm from top of mobo to top of case, so a 45mm rad + 25mm push fan will just come right to the top of the mobo, or a 60mm rad without a push fan will still have 10mm of space, but that's leaving out the offset spacing.

According to Jesse's measurements posted in his FAQs at the end of the Enthoo Primo review at themodzoo, the mounting locations for 120mm series fans/rads are offset by 54mm from the mobo and by extension, that means that 140mm series rads will be offset by 44mm.

So, unless that heatsink or ram or anything else along the top of the mobo is taller than 54mm/44mm it shouldn't interfere with a 120mm/140mm series rad/fan combination thicker than the 70mm of clearance hanging down in front of it.

According to Jesse's FAQs, as long as nothing on your mobo is taller than 54mm, then you can fit a 120mm series monsta (80mm thick) rad in the top, with a push fan on it even. It'll just overhang the top of your mobo.
Quote:


> *What is the max clearance for a radiator installed in the top panel?*
> 
> - The case has a clearance of 70mm for mounting a radiator in the roof. The mounts are offset by ~54mm so installing a 60mm (120mm series) radiator in push pull should not be an issue. As long as you do not have anything taller than 53mm on the motherboard (including ram), you can even install a 480mm monsta radiator in push pull. The X79 Dark, and G-Skill ram CAN be used with a monsta rad in push pull.


Sooo, after all that, the only thing you'd need to know whether a fan/rad combo thicker than 70mm could fit up top is how tall the heatsink is on the M6F. I looked a bit but was unable to find an exact height, but it doesn't look to be taller than 44mm though, unless you wanted to watercool the aluminum crosschill heatsinks and in that case with fittings/hoses attached to the top of it there's probably not going to be enough room for your fan/rad to overhang the mobo much if at all.


----------



## mixman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> Well what is supposed to fit is:
> 
> 60mm with one set of fans in top compartment.
> 45 mm in push pull
> 
> It was hoping I might get lucky w/ low placed RAM slots and it might be possible to do a 60 in push pull and was waiting for case to arrive so i could confirm. But the CrossChill HS will hit long before RAM becomes an issue
> 
> What else you planning component wise?


Well my rig in my signature will be my main one. But since this is going to be my Hackintosh/ 8.1 rig, I am going to go a little light.

Leaning towards the: M6F, but may go for the Gigabyte UD4 all with a 4770K.

Card: nothing spectacular since I don't game an ASUS GT640

PSU: my trusty PPC 750

RAD : Alphacool UT45 at least pull hopefully push too with AP15's

Res, not sure yet

Pump either D5 with PWM or MCP35X

Are you going to WC the Crosschill on the M6F? JJ from ASUS says it is Anodized AL and is totally safe to WC.


----------



## mixman

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *mixman*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> M6F USers take Note: Had some time to look at the MoBo yesterday..... been sitting in dining room table for a few days ..... Cross Chill heatsink on M6F is H U G E..... looks like will be more of an issue than RAM radiator wise .
> 
> 
> 
> Thinking of getting that combo too M6F and Enthoo. What size rad do you think will fit up top with the M6F.....45mm, 60mm?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> There's 70mm from top of mobo to top of case, so a 45mm rad + 25mm push fan will just come right to the top of the mobo, or a 60mm rad without a push fan will still have 10mm of space, but that's leaving out the offset spacing.
> 
> According to Jesse's measurements posted in his FAQs at the end of the Enthoo Primo review at themodzoo, the mounting locations for 120mm series fans/rads are offset by 54mm from the mobo and by extension, that means that 140mm series rads will be offset by 44mm.
> 
> So, unless that heatsink or ram or anything else along the top of the mobo is taller than 54mm/44mm it shouldn't interfere with a 120mm/140mm series rad/fan combination thicker than the 70mm of clearance hanging down in front of it.
> 
> According to Jesse's FAQs, as long as nothing on your mobo is taller than 54mm, then you can fit a 120mm series monsta (80mm thick) rad in the top, with a push fan on it even. It'll just overhang the top of your mobo.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> *What is the max clearance for a radiator installed in the top panel?*
> 
> - The case has a clearance of 70mm for mounting a radiator in the roof. The mounts are offset by ~54mm so installing a 60mm (120mm series) radiator in push pull should not be an issue. As long as you do not have anything taller than 53mm on the motherboard (including ram), you can even install a 480mm monsta radiator in push pull. The X79 Dark, and G-Skill ram CAN be used with a monsta rad in push pull.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Sooo, after all that, the only thing you'd need to know whether a fan/rad combo thicker than 70mm could fit up top is how tall the heatsink is on the M6F. I looked a bit but was unable to find an exact height, but it doesn't look to be taller than 44mm though, unless you wanted to watercool the aluminum crosschill heatsinks and in that case with fittings/hoses attached to the top of it there's probably not going to be enough room for your fan/rad to overhang the mobo much if at all.
Click to expand...





Thanks for all the measurement info Unicron. Can't wait until you get your Phankes so you can tell me how it compares to the Cosmos 2. I was considering that before this case came along, but the space and the build on the Phankes seems too good to pass up.


----------



## chrisnyc75

Oh snap! Guess who just got an "Order Confirmation" from Newegg....









It's like Christmas morning, if Christmas were cancelled, postponed, and delayed for months and then almost didn't happen at all!









Now I can finally get down to business with my watercooling build.







At least I won't look back and feel like I 'rushed it' and didn't think it through, right? lol


----------



## doyll

Now who's going to be the first to get their Primo?


----------



## JackNaylorPE

In stock at newegg a day early !

2:30 PM EST
Quote:


> Thank you for shopping at Newegg.com
> 
> We're delighted we had what you were looking for!
> 
> Your order should be processed and ready to be shipped within 24-48 hours.* Below is your order confirmation. Please keep a copy for your records.


2:37 PM EST
Quote:


> We are happy to inform you that your order (Sales Order Number: xxxxxxxxxx) has been successfully charged to your American Express and order verification is now complete.


2:45 PM EST
Quote:


> We are happy to inform you that your order (Sales Order Number: xxxxxxxxxx) has been shipped and will be delivered to you tomorrow morning along with two large coffees


Ok that last one was a joke







.... Those who ordered from Phanteks shud receive on Thursday .... neweggers if lucky in Friday but most likely Monday.


----------



## chrisnyc75

Looks like it's officially "out of stock" with no specified expected date of restock if you didn't already pre-order ages ago. I have a feeling the first wave of stock just barely covered the preorders, and the second wave of stock should be in by the time us first-wavers get our builds up and going and word of mouth starts to spread beyond our little 'early adopters' club


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chrisnyc75*
> 
> Looks like it's officially "out of stock" with no specified expected date of restock if you didn't already pre-order ages ago. I have a feeling the first wave of stock just barely covered the preorders, and the second wave of stock should be in by the time us first-wavers get our builds up and going and word of mouth starts to spread beyond our little 'early adopters' club


Current page 3:40 pm EST
Quote:


> Phanteks Phanteks Enthoo Series Primo Aluminum PH-ES813P_BL Black w/ Blue LED Aluminum faceplates / Steel chassis ATX Full Tower Computer Case
> 
> *In stock.* Limit 10 per customer.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mixman*
> 
> Are you going to WC the Crosschill on the M6F? JJ from ASUS says it is Anodized AL and is totally safe to WC.


Without a doubt .... been working with anodized aluminum for 20+ years in hghly corrosive environments .... have no concerns at all w/ DW but will be using Mayems coolant anyway.

As far as the fit of the top Rad.... look at the pictures here ..... 4th and 5th ones down

http://themodzoo.com/forum/index.php?/page/articles.html/_/reviews/cases/phanteks-enthoo-primo-full-tower-review-r67?pg=6

The 4th pic is a 120mm wide by 60mm thick rad and Jesse has an issue with the heat sink writing:
Quote:


> The radiator mount is offset, to help with spacing of a 60mm thick radiator in the roof. *As you can see in this picture, my radiator is getting way too close to the motherboard heat sink. Installing fans on the inside is not going to be an option* with the Evga x79 Dark motherboard. Please note the location of the white zip tie on the 8 pin CPU power cable, we will use it as reference point in the next picture.


In the 5th pic, he writes
Quote:


> For my build I ended up using a *360mm radiator in the ceiling, the Alphacool XT 45*. As you can see *I have enough space to mount fans on the inside, and have the XT 45 radiator in push pull configuration*. You can see the amount of space available, if you use the white zip tie from the previous picture as an example.


The M6F heat sink is 34mm high BTW and unlike Jesse's, that's flush with the edge of the MoBo....On his Dark MoBo, the heat sink is like an A-frame at the top leaving much more room.


----------



## Hereisphilly

Its for the exact reason of motherboard heatsink heights being relatively unknown when just released that I decided in the end to send my 420 ut60 back and swap it for an xt45.

I'm fairly confident that it would fit my current mobo (z87 ud5h), but I really didn't want to have to consider heatsink height when choosing my next motherboard.

The wattage difference posted a few pages back showed that there wasn't much in it at low fan speeds,

I'd rather take the hit ever so slightly and have peace of mind that whatever I buy will fit, rather than having to swap out a rad

I'm going to fit fan shrouds I think if I have any space with this mobo, as I have read that they extract a bit more from fans


----------



## skupples

sigh, i'm going to have to exchange one of my UT60's as well, and that's inside 900D... Just won't have the space for aquearo6 +dual bay res + rad.


----------



## Roxycon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chrisnyc75*
> 
> Looks like it's officially "out of stock" with no specified expected date of restock if you didn't already pre-order ages ago. I have a feeling the first wave of stock just barely covered the preorders, and the second wave of stock should be in by the time us first-wavers get our builds up and going and word of mouth starts to spread beyond our little 'early adopters' club


Dont say that







still hoping ill be with the first ones to do a primo build.. Prolly not gonna happend since i first have to recieve a package from frozen and test my planned setup outside the build before starting any modding to the case

Btw, what do you guys use to make holes for the fillports from bitspower?

Hate the fact that i live in such an enthusiaist lacking society (and im studying computer science) me and two other friends from my classes who actually know whats going inside a computer


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hereisphilly*
> 
> The wattage difference posted a few pages back showed that there wasn't much in it at low fan speeds,


I wouldn't trust that guy..... my wife thinks hes an idiot








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hereisphilly*
> 
> I decided in the end to send my 420 ut60 back and swap it for an xt45.


I have always seen a disclaimer on bottom of my orders saying to the effect .... "Water cooled products..... are returnable for repair and replacement only." which is why I haven't ordered anything till case gets here.


----------



## Hereisphilly

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> I wouldn't trust that guy..... my wife thinks hes an idiot
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have always seen a disclaimer on bottom of my orders saying to the effect .... "Water cooled products..... are returnable for repair and replacement only." which is why I haven't ordered anything till case gets here.


Haha! Well your wattage numbers didnt lie good sir!

Is a bit different here in the UK, we have something called distance selling regulations, which means by law the retailer has to accept a return within 30 days, for whatever reason the buyer gives, even for the reason of "I don't like it"
Worked a treat for me 
Plus I hadn't done anything with the rad yet


----------



## mixman

Oh boy....I can see all of the 480mm xt45's going out of stock soon!







I am going home to figure out who I am going to order this case from.


----------



## skupples

performance PC's is normally pretty good about swapping parts out, as long as they are obviously not used... Probably help's to be a thousands of dollars deep customer...

Alls you gotta do is say "i'm taking my business to newyork!"


----------



## kpoeticg

I've had real good experience with Performance-PCs swapping stuff out too. I love how quickly they respond to emails too. Don't know why i see so many people knocking their customer service


----------



## bond32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> I've had real good experience with Performance-PCs swapping stuff out too. I love how quickly they respond to emails too. Don't know why i see so many people knocking their customer service


Hope you never have a problem then. My experience was an absolute nightmare with them, as well as many others here. I would never shop there again (can't anyway, they deleted my account).


----------



## kpoeticg

LOL, that seems so weird to me. They always seem so friendly and willing to help. Oh well guess it depends on the situation. I hope i never have a problem either


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> [...]
> 
> As far as the fit of the top Rad.... look at the pictures here ..... 4th and 5th ones down
> 
> http://themodzoo.com/forum/index.php?/page/articles.html/_/reviews/cases/phanteks-enthoo-primo-full-tower-review-r67?pg=6
> 
> *The 4th pic is a 120mm wide by 60mm thick rad* and Jesse has an issue with the heat sink writing:
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> The radiator mount is offset, to help with spacing of a 60mm thick radiator in the roof. As you can see in this picture, my radiator is getting way too close to the motherboard heat sink. Installing fans on the inside is not going to be an option with the Evga x79 Dark motherboard. Please note the location of the white zip tie on the 8 pin CPU power cable, we will use it as reference point in the next picture.
Click to expand...

FYI: The 4th pic is not a "120mm wide" rad. It's a 420 radiator (a 140mm series radiator). It says so right above that 4th pic. That's why he didn't have clearance for his mobo & CPU cable and instead decided on going with a 360 rad.

He did wind up going with a 45mm 360 for his build but as he wrote later when he did his FAQs he could have fit a 60mm or 80mm thick monsta 120mm-series rad too, with push fans even, with his board if it wasn't for the fact he was wanting to keep his tall profile (corsair vengeance, iirc) ram. That's why he wrote that if he had went with a mid-profile ram like G-Skill's ripjaws, he could have gotten away with the thicker 120mm series rads no problem.


----------



## OutlawII

They are back in stock on Newegg!! Ordered myn today should have it this weekend !


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OutlawII*
> 
> They are back in stock on Newegg!! Ordered myn today should have it this weekend !


I got my confirmation and processing completed note at 2:37 this afternoon..... said 1-2 days to ship and 4-7 delivery. (see post 765) .... I don't think ya will see for weekend unless ya paid for rush processing and special delivery.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> FYI: The 4th pic is not a "120mm wide" rad. It's a 420 radiator (a 140mm series radiator). It says so right above that 4th pic. That's why he didn't have clearance for his mobo & CPU cable and instead decided on going with a 360 rad.
> 
> He did wind up going with a 45mm 360 for his build but as he wrote later when he did his FAQs he could have fit a 60mm or 80mm thick monsta 120mm-series rad too, with push fans even, with his board if it wasn't for the fact he was wanting to keep his tall profile (corsair vengeance, iirc) ram. That's why he wrote that if he had went with a mid-profile ram like G-Skill's ripjaws, he could have gotten away with the thicker 120mm series rads no problem.


You're right, my bad .... I read under the pic and not on top.

Still doesn't help me tho .....140mm rads have no hope at all
Quote:


> Can I fit a 140mm series, 60mm radiator in the roof of the case in push/pull?
> 
> - No, a 140mm series rad in 60mm will be too close to the motherboard heatsinks and the fans will come in the way. Users might be able to use a shroud or a 140mm to 120mm fan adapter on the 140mm rad and use 120mm fans.


I'm not too disappointed .... difference in cooling between XT45 (302) and UT60 (309) is 7 watts


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Looks like I'm planning a trip to Rochester shortly.


----------



## OutlawII

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> I got my confirmation and processing completed note at 2:37 this afternoon..... said 1-2 days to ship and 4-7 delivery. (see post 765) .... I don't think ya will see for weekend unless ya paid for rush processing and special delivery.
> You're right, my bad .... I read under the pic and not on top.
> 
> Still doesn't help me tho .....140mm rads have no hope at all
> I'm not too disappointed .... difference in cooling between XT45 (302) and UT60 (309) is 7 watts


Got my confirmation too everytime i order from the egg by Tues i get it by the weekend so who knows?


----------



## ADragg

I snagged one from New Egg today! Can't wait. One thing I haven't seen mentioned yet is whether the blue LED strip on the front can be changed. Either by some kind of RGB adjustment (I doubt that) or if they're at least just standard LED's behind there that could be removed and replaced with the desired color. The only thing I'm not crazy about is being limited to a blue color scheme if that can't be changed.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ADragg*
> 
> I snagged one from New Egg today! Can't wait. One thing I haven't seen mentioned yet is whether the blue LED strip on the front can be changed. Either by some kind of RGB adjustment (I doubt that) or if they're at least just standard LED's behind there that could be removed and replaced with the desired color. The only thing I'm not crazy about is being limited to a blue color scheme if that can't be changed.


http://themodzoo.com/forum/index.php?/topic/883-enthoo-primo-front-led-color-change/


----------



## chrisnyc75

[Newegg]
Ship date 10/21/2013 00:00:31
Estimated delivery 10/24/2013

Already have my replacement LED strips for the front and top, just need to get inside the case to take very precise measurements of the few still-perplexing spots and then place my whopping watercooling gear order. I should hopefully have the hardware and be ready to begin the project next weekend (after Halloween).

Alls I know is if after all this time and planning and deliberating I get it all up and running and my 4930K still won't cooperate at 4.7ghz they're gonna have to call in the big bouncer when they see me coming, because it's gonna get really real with Intel really fast. lol

And on that note, I better go grab that Tuning Plan contract right now.


----------



## ADragg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> http://themodzoo.com/forum/index.php?/topic/883-enthoo-primo-front-led-color-change/


YES! Awesome, thanks for that. I believe the green Bitfenix LED strip I ordered with it will fit perfect in the channel.

Kind of sad I'm already upgrading this brand new build from a brand new Bitfenix Ghost case and a brand new Corsair H100i to the Enthoo Primo and a custom loop. Less than month old components already getting switched out.


----------



## mixman

I just bought at Newegg. Hopefully I will get it by the weekend, even though I don't have any other parts yet for the build. By the way I found this coupon code it's a $25 coupon code. Unfortunately it's only good for 48 hrs until 11:59 PM PST on 10/22. It saved me shipping, which I upgraded to 3 day for $24.99


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mixman*
> 
> I just bought at Newegg. Hopefully I will get it by the weekend, even though I don't have any other parts yet for the build. By the way I found this coupon code it's a $25 coupon code. Unfortunately it's only good for 48 hrs until 11:59 PM PST on 10/22. It saved me shipping, which I upgraded to 3 day for $24.99


That coupon code is a good find. Makes me wish I'd have waited and just ordered from Newegg instead of through Phanteks and getting billed a month and a half ago for it and paying more, only to get it a day or two earlier at best.

IIRC though, to enter a coupon code at Newegg, you have to enter your email address, presumably to show them that you were already on their mailing list to receive said coupon so that their coupon codes can't just be shared with everyone. Then, after entering your email, you get the chance to enter the code. Not sure if that applies to the code you linked to though.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OutlawII*
> 
> Got my confirmation too everytime i order from the egg by Tues i get it by the weekend so who knows?


Yes, me too.......I'm hoping but this thing is huge (44lbs) .... my tracking says Estimated Friday but not holding hopes up.


----------



## OutlawII

Yep Friday delivery! Holy crap can't wait gonna be building all weekend!

Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk


----------



## jassilamba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ADragg*
> 
> YES! Awesome, thanks for that. I believe the green Bitfenix LED strip I ordered with it will fit perfect in the channel.
> 
> Kind of sad I'm already upgrading this brand new build from a brand new Bitfenix Ghost case and a brand new Corsair H100i to the Enthoo Primo and a custom loop. Less than month old components already getting switched out.


Welcome to the club, I hear you what you mean.

Between I will try to get the little video guide up as well, Won't be anything special. I would also upload a little guide on changing the LEDs on the power switch as well.

Cant wait to see some EPIC builds in this case.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *OutlawII*
> 
> Got my confirmation too everytime i order from the egg by Tues i get it by the weekend so who knows?
> 
> 
> 
> Yes, me too.......I'm hoping but this thing is huge (44lbs) .... my tracking says Estimated Friday but not holding hopes up.
Click to expand...

Naah. It's only 39lbs without the box.


----------



## mixman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *mixman*
> 
> I just bought at Newegg. Hopefully I will get it by the weekend, even though I don't have any other parts yet for the build. By the way I found this coupon code it's a $25 coupon code. Unfortunately it's only good for 48 hrs until 11:59 PM PST on 10/22. It saved me shipping, which I upgraded to 3 day for $24.99
> 
> 
> 
> That coupon code is a good find. Makes me wish I'd have waited and just ordered from Newegg instead of through Phanteks and getting billed a month and a half ago for it and paying more, only to get it a day or two earlier at best.
> 
> IIRC though, to enter a coupon code at Newegg, you have to enter your email address, presumably to show them that you were already on their mailing list to receive said coupon so that their coupon codes can't just be shared with everyone. Then, after entering your email, you get the chance to enter the code. Not sure if that applies to the code you linked to though.
Click to expand...

On this code I just typed it in, while I was logged in and the code worked. Well anyway it is now OOS. Maybe i got the last one last night? Hope somebody else got in on the code from Newegg.

Now to decide on a mobo. Either the M6F or the Gigabyte Z87X UD4. or Z87X-OC.


----------



## Hereisphilly

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mixman*
> 
> On this code I just typed it in, while I was logged in and the code worked. Well anyway it is now OOS. Maybe i got the last one last night? Hope somebody else got in on the code from Newegg.
> 
> Now to decide on a mobo. Either the M6F or the Gigabyte Z87X UD4. or Z87X-OC.


I'm gutted I didn't get the Z87x-OC as ek have just recently brought out vrm and chipset waterblocks for it!
One of the few non rog boards that have some!


----------



## dsmwookie

Almost that time...

RGB 5mm wide http://m.ebay.com/itm/370920695334?nav=SEARCH&sbk=1


----------



## jassilamba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dsmwookie*
> 
> Almost that time...
> 
> RGB 5mm wide http://m.ebay.com/itm/370920695334?nav=SEARCH&sbk=1


+1 on the great find, I will add this to the list of strips that will work over at the zoo.

Thanks mate.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dsmwookie*
> 
> Almost that time...
> 
> RGB 5mm wide http://m.ebay.com/itm/370920695334?nav=SEARCH&sbk=1


Are these all three colors in 1 led) spaced 2.25cm apart or are they individual red, green & blue leds?.. meaning same color is spaced 6.75cm...


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *dsmwookie*
> 
> Almost that time...
> 
> RGB 5mm wide http://m.ebay.com/itm/370920695334?nav=SEARCH&sbk=1
> 
> 
> 
> Are these all three colors in 1 led) spaced 2.25cm apart or are they individual red, green & blue leds?.. meaning same color is spaced 6.75cm...
Click to expand...

That one linked the bidding has ended I believe, but below that was other choices, like this one ...

http://www.ebay.com/itm/5050-RGB-LED-Strip-5M-300-Leds-SMD-Flex-light-Waterproof-Mini-RGB-Controller/350752096711

And looking at the images it looks like each led is a multicolor integrated led, similar to these:


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> That one linked the bidding has ended I believe, but below that was other choices, like this one ...
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/5050-RGB-LED-Strip-5M-300-Leds-SMD-Flex-light-Waterproof-Mini-RGB-Controller/350752096711
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> And looking at the images it looks like each led is a multicolor integrated led, similar to these:


Thanks!

I was looking at something like this. with 44key remote
http://www.ebay.com/itm/1-X-5M-RGB-5050-SMD-Flexible-Strip-300-LEDs-DC-12V-500CM-44-key-Remote-Control-/121148756185?pt=US_Car_Lighting&hash=item1c350750d9

Few dollars more for one with power supply but not sure I need it... than again would be nice to be able to use lights when working on it.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-5M-5050-SMD-RGB-Flexible-300-LED-Light-Strip-60Leds-M-Remote-Power-Supply-/171121431868?pt=US_String_Lights_Fairy_Lights&var=&hash=item27d7a1d53c

Did my research and found that 5050 are 3 LEDs in one chip (RGB) and 3528 are 3 individual colored LEDs



SMD 5050 LED Flex Strip light

5050 rgb led chip
They are called SMD 5050 because the dimensions of the chips are 5.0mm x 5.0mm.
These LED chips have 3 LED chips in one housing (sometimes called tri-chips), and are a lot brighter than individual 3528 LED chips. Come in 30 and 60 LED chips per meter.

SMD 3528 LED Flex Strip light

3528 smd led chips
They are called SMD3528 because the dimension of the chip is 3.5mm x 2.8mm.
These LED chips (one LED per chip) are bright but not as bright as the 5050 side by side. Come in 60 and 120 LED chips per meter.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

If the SMD 5050 chips are 5mm x 5mm, then it seems the '5M' in the product title to the one I linked is probably referring to the width of the chip. not the width of the strip (like I & others above were assuming), and in that case it's probably too wide to use to mod your phantek case. You'd probably have to go with an SMD 3528 strip if you want an RGB strip that will fit. No?


----------



## jassilamba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> If the SMD 5050 chips are 5mm x 5mm, then it seems the '5M' in the product title to the one I linked is probably referring to the width of the chip. not the width of the strip (like I & others above were assuming), and in that case it's probably too wide to use to mod your phantek case. You'd probably have to go with an SMD 3528 strip if you want an RGB strip that will fit. No?


Not all 3528 strips are 5mm wide, the average width of an LED strip is 8mm. The one that was originally posted is 5mm wide, and here is a version of it that is still active - http://Clicky Click]http://www.ebay.com/itm/3528-RGB-LED-Strip-5mm-Width-5M-270-LEDS-Flash-SMD-Light-Tube-Waterproof-12V-DC/231013741029?_trksid=p2047675.m1850&_trkparms=aid%3D222002%26algo%3DSIC.FIT%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D18348%26meid%3D2169308513147262889%26pid%3D100011%26prg%3D8402%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D5%26sd%3D370920695334%26[/URL]

5050 LEDs can produce white, whereas others cannot.


----------



## doyll

Assuming the 3828 is the proper width to fit it will a series of red, green & blue light and that is all. It will not give us the other colors. The 5050 SMD RGB will give us any color we want. That's why I'll probably get the 5050 RGB even though it won't work to replace the stock light strips. I just like the idea of being able to make whatever color I want.

This video was very helpful to me.


----------



## OutlawII

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> [quote name="JackNaylorPE" url="/t/1418637/phanteks-enthoo-primo-owners-club/780_20#post_21032932"][quote name="OutlawII" url="/t/1418637/phanteks-enthoo-primo-owners-club/780#post_21031581"]Got my confirmation too everytime i order from the egg by Tues i get it by the weekend so who knows?


Yes, me too.......I'm hoping but this thing is huge (44lbs) .... my tracking says Estimated Friday but not holding hopes up.[/quote]Naah. It's only 39lbs without the box. [/QUOTE]
Lol what is the 900d empty? And is anyone else putting wheels in this I know I will!

Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk


----------



## Hereisphilly

These led strips seem to have a weird 4 pin connector, does anyone know how they can be connected to a PSU?


----------



## jassilamba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OutlawII*
> 
> Lol what is the 900d empty? And is anyone else putting wheels in this I know I will!
> 
> Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk


Hey a Minnesotan, are you around the cities? I'm not putting wheels directly on the case, but I have my case sitting on a moving dolly lol

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hereisphilly*
> 
> These led strips seem to have a weird 4 pin connector, does anyone know how they can be connected to a PSU?


here is how I do it:

1. Take a molex to 2 pin or 3 pin connector (they normally come with fans)
2. Cut the fan pin off the molex to 3 pin connector, and figure out which wire is (-) and which one is (+)


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!






3. Out of the 4 wires on the LED strip, either the Black or the White wire will be (+), and the rest are for the (-). 1 for each of the 3 colors. (combine all 3 colors to get white)

You can also buy a 12V led strip controller, that will just have a red and black wire, that you can easily connect to a converted molex cable.

Extra Tips:

If you have a 12V adapter somewhere in the house use that to figure out your connection, as last thing you want is a short when plugging into the PSU. If you do not have a 12V adapter, you can use a 9V battery to figure out what wire is what. Always test your circuit, and wiring outside the case without the PSU (if possible) to avoid any damage.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OutlawII*
> 
> Lol what is the 900d empty? And is anyone else putting wheels in this I know I will!
> 
> Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk


900D is 40.9 lbs.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hereisphilly*
> 
> These led strips seem to have a weird 4 pin connector, does anyone know how they can be connected to a PSU?


As already said the are power, red, green & blue (RGB).

If you want white why not just buy white?

Power and remote control is cheap and has a simple plug socket for 12v hookup. Everything from simple direct wire to IR remote.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/44-4-3-Key-6-12A-LED-Amplifier-IR-Remote-Control-For-RGB-LED-Light-Strip-/280923632135?pt=UK_Home_Garden_Lighting_Parts&var=&hash=item41685a7207

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/RGB-24-Key-IR-Remote-Controller-3528-5050-Change-Color-LED-Light-Strip-Tape-/221274292077?pt=UK_Home_Garden_Night_Lights_Fairy_Lights&hash=item3384f9bf6d

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/24-44-Key-IR-Remote-Controller-DC-12V-For-The-LED-RGB-5050-3258-Strip-Light-UK-/130992596083?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&var=&hash=item1e7fc46473


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OutlawII*
> 
> Lol what is the 900d empty? And is anyone else putting wheels in this I know I will!
> 
> Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk


I wish I would of just bought the worlds biggest case the first time, instead of getting a slightly bigger case every time I ran out of room.


----------



## Hereisphilly

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> As already said the are power, red, green & blue (RGB).
> 
> If you want white why not just buy white?
> 
> Power and remote control is cheap and has a simple plug socket for 12v hookup. Everything from simple direct wire to IR remote.
> http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/44-4-3-Key-6-12A-LED-Amplifier-IR-Remote-Control-For-RGB-LED-Light-Strip-/280923632135?pt=UK_Home_Garden_Lighting_Parts&var=&hash=item41685a7207
> 
> http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/RGB-24-Key-IR-Remote-Controller-3528-5050-Change-Color-LED-Light-Strip-Tape-/221274292077?pt=UK_Home_Garden_Night_Lights_Fairy_Lights&hash=item3384f9bf6d
> 
> http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/24-44-Key-IR-Remote-Controller-DC-12V-For-The-LED-RGB-5050-3258-Strip-Light-UK-/130992596083?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&var=&hash=item1e7fc46473


Ahh awesome! Yeah I was just intrigued by the connector that's all, looks like I might have a go at that

Cheers for the guide too Jesse, big help!


----------



## doyll

My first really "expensive" case was a Thermaltake Xaser III.. 205.7x530.9x570.7mm and 23lbs.








Used it for many years with many modifications until I got my "smaller"

Define R2.. 207.4x458x521.2mm and 27.5lbs.









Both of them had/have 4x castor bases under them.









Now I get the Enthoo Primo and of course it has to have castors too.


----------



## ADragg

Holy crap. I ordered this thing yesterday and it's already here. I payed for 3 day shipping but they're in California and I'm in Nevada, so it's usually quick. But wow.

It's really heavy. I'll let you guys know what I think after unboxing.


----------



## 6steven9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ADragg*
> 
> Holy crap. I ordered this thing yesterday and it's already here. I payed for 3 day shipping but they're in California and I'm in Nevada, so it's usually quick. But wow.
> 
> It's really heavy. I'll let you guys know what I think after unboxing.


Jealous still waiting on it to be available on newegg.ca sucks i can't order it off newegg.com and it's not available on any other canadian retailers yet........


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ADragg*
> 
> Holy crap. I ordered this thing yesterday and it's already here. I payed for 3 day shipping but they're in California and I'm in Nevada, so it's usually quick. But wow.
> 
> It's really heavy. I'll let you guys know what I think after unboxing.


no pictures?


----------



## bond32

I'm jealous too. Think shipping was just too much otherwise I would have selected 3 or 2 day.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Naah. It's only 39lbs without the box.


The 44 lbs is shipping weight .... if i weighs less I'm asking for shipping refund









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mixman*
> 
> On this code I just typed it in, while I was logged in and the code worked. Well anyway it is now OOS. Maybe i got the last one last night? Hope somebody else got in on the code from Newegg.
> 
> Now to decide on a mobo. Either the M6F or the Gigabyte Z87X UD4. or Z87X-OC.


Code is good for lotta things besides cases, luckily ..... and M6F w/o a doubt. ! I been staring at it so much, she calls it "geek porn" ...... "bit it's so perty"









It was the MBK build that got me interested in doing acrylic.
http://rog.asus.com/forum/showthread.php?33364-Maximus-VI-Formula-Show-Casemod-MbK


----------



## OutlawII

Cant wait till Friday!


----------



## OutlawII

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jassilamba*
> 
> Hey a Minnesotan, are you around the cities? I'm not putting wheels directly on the case, but I have my case sitting on a moving dolly lol
> here is how I do it:
> 
> 1. Take a molex to 2 pin or 3 pin connector (they normally come with fans)
> 2. Cut the fan pin off the molex to 3 pin connector, and figure out which wire is (-) and which one is (+)
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 3. Out of the 4 wires on the LED strip, either the Black or the White wire will be (+), and the rest are for the (-). 1 for each of the 3 colors. (combine all 3 colors to get white)
> 
> You can also buy a 12V led strip controller, that will just have a red and black wire, that you can easily connect to a converted molex cable.
> 
> Extra Tips:
> 
> If you have a 12V adapter somewhere in the house use that to figure out your connection, as last thing you want is a short when plugging into the PSU. If you do not have a 12V adapter, you can use a 9V battery to figure out what wire is what. Always test your circuit, and wiring outside the case without the PSU (if possible) to avoid any damage.


Further north Bagley its west of Bemidji.


----------



## jassilamba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OutlawII*
> 
> Further north Bagley its west of Bemidji.


If you are ever in the cities, let me know. Also check this out over at the zoo - http://themodzoo.com/forum/index.php?/topic/97-midwest-monthly-pc-modders-meetups-when-where-next/


----------



## dsmwookie

Anyone else annoyed at the added shipping and receiving it no earlier than newegg?


----------



## ADragg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> no pictures?


I will post some soon. Especially since I'll be rebuilding my PC into this case tomorrow. Any tips on how I should go about swapping everything into this case? I've never done a case swap, but I'm guessing it's just as involved as building a brand new PC. If anyone has any tips, that would be great.

Also, where should I mount a 360 radiator in this case? Lots of options. Just wondering what you more advanced guys would do. I figure either on the top or on the floor. I'm still rocking the H100i but soon I will be buying either a kit for a custom loop or all of the parts, depending on what's the best option for around $350 (not including the $115 GTX 780 water block), but I know I want at least a 360 rad.

The fans in this case seem very nice, BTW. Everything is super nice.


----------



## jassilamba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ADragg*
> 
> I will post some soon. Especially since I'll be rebuilding my PC into this case tomorrow. Any tips on how I should go about swapping everything into this case? I've never done a case swap, but I'm guessing it's just as involved as building a brand new PC. If anyone has any tips, that would be great.
> 
> Also, where should I mount a 360 radiator in this case? Lots of options. Just wondering what you more advanced guys would do. I figure either on the top or on the floor. I'm still rocking the H100i but soon I will be buying either a kit for a custom loop or all of the parts, depending on what's the best option for around $350 (not including the $115 GTX 780 water block), but I know I want at least a 360 rad.
> 
> The fans in this case seem very nice, BTW. Everything is super nice.


If it's just 1 rad I suggest the top. Other than that a swap is the same as building new but with components you already own.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ADragg*
> 
> I will post some soon. Especially since I'll be rebuilding my PC into this case tomorrow. Any tips on how I should go about swapping everything into this case? I've never done a case swap, but I'm guessing it's just as involved as building a brand new PC. If anyone has any tips, that would be great.
> 
> Also, where should I mount a 360 radiator in this case? Lots of options. Just wondering what you more advanced guys would do. I figure either on the top or on the floor. I'm still rocking the H100i but soon I will be buying either a kit for a custom loop or all of the parts, depending on what's the best option for around $350 (not including the $115 GTX 780 water block), but I know I want at least a 360 rad.
> 
> The fans in this case seem very nice, BTW. Everything is super nice.


Like you thought, just as involved as doing a full build. Do a 100% tear down, then start your rebuild. As Jassilamba said, 360 should go up top. Though, if you are looking to retain the H100i & have a separate gpu loop, you will be limited in your gpu rad placement.


----------



## Roxycon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Like you thought, just as involved as doing a full build. Do a 100% tear down, then start your rebuild. As Jassilamba said, 360 should go up top. Though, if you are looking to retain the H100i & have a separate gpu loop, you will be limited in your gpu rad placement.


Not really, he could put the h100i on the hdd racks and the 360 in the roof, but that would be hard to get something decent looking since he'll have to cross tubings.. But h100i on top and 360 bottom would be the way i would have done it









And you dont need to take the cpu or ram out of its socket, wont be able to bend the pins on cpu/socket that way


----------



## chrisnyc75

It's here!







Just a few more measurements and some careful studying of the dimensionality of the space, and then the big project finally begins.









I love knowing that this chassis is going to be with me for many years, I've never before found a case that was more than a "one-build throw away."

Nicely done, Phanteks. You're making one helluva debut in the chassis market. Well worth the wait!


----------



## Dahl

Just received one. I gotta say, while its options and build quality are impressive, the thing is huge!

I am coming from a cooler master haf 932, which I thought was large. The enthoo primo makes the 932 look like a child's toy. Seriously, the size difference is stunning.

Going to take a little getting used to. Although, I suppose anyone who has worked with a 900D before would feel right at home.


----------



## skupples

I'm excited to see people get to work!

Yes, yes... No need to remove cpu or ram on a rebuild unless they are getting upgraded.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Things are working out well..... RAM arrived today, spent 3 weeks looking for any DDR3-2400 CAS 10 (Dominators, Vengeance Pro, Mushies, etc) looked everywhere, even overseas but all I could find were GSkills and Team.....and they not on my OK List ....1st cause of past experiences (and continuing newegg feedback) and 2nd cause I been too chicken to try yet







.... besides Mushkies (10-12-12-28) have slightly better timings than other guys (10-12-12-28) .

Hats off to Mushkin corporate for hooking me up with a pair .... and a few case badges (those haven't arrrived yet). Never used the tall (50mm above MoBo surface) Ridgebacks before because they didn't look that hot finish wise in pics .... well pics don't do justice .... the things look frakin gorgeous in the M6F. Looks like I have 5 packages on big brown truck coming Friday. Damn it, he'll prolly save me for last on his route









1. Enthoo
2. PSU that I bought 10 minutes before that $25 discount coupon expired that someone here told us about .... (muchos grassyass BTW)..... got the next two done after coupon expired








3. Monitor .... so far every Asus 144 Hz monitor has been perfect .... for other people's builds .... no dead or stuck pixels .... let's hope streak holds
4. SSDs, HDs, CPU, BR Writer, KB, OS
5. Mouse and USB Stick

Talkin' about tear downs and rebuilds .... ya prolly noticed, no TIM and no GFX

A. Weekend of October 26th - Initial build .... make sure everything works outta the box..... will be using Intel stock heat sink and an old GT430 that I keep in toolbox as test card or maybe pull a 560 Ti outta a SLI box.
B. Weekend of November 2nd - After spending the week benching the CPU with stock cooler and waiting for 1st wave of WC parts to arrive (Rads, pumps, controller and a few test fittings), will do a complete tear down, install rads and measure up case for any necessary holes / mods. Rebuild will be with 3rd party air cooler.
C. Weekend of November 9th - After week of benching w/ 3rd party air cooler, measuring up tube routes determining number of fittings and waiting for them to arrive, construct acrylic tubes, install to rads and pump.... no blocks as yet.
D. Weekend of November 16th - Custom Sleeving
E. Weekend of November 23rd - Install twin GFX cards ..... Hopefully 780 Ti is out and regular 780 price went in toilet and two DCII 780s have arrived.
F. Weekend of November 30th - After week of benching cards on air, install CPU and GPU blocks which arrived during the week.
G. Weekend of December ? - After benchmarking the water cooled rig, delid and put the tools away after.

Potential complications ..... finding a spot for the res .....

A. Anyone know a good source of sheet aluminum and / or acrylic sheet ? Something suitable for a reservoir or pump mounting plate ?

B. Anyone know the spacing between the mounting screws on the Photo 170 and 270 ?

C. Haven't come up with a name yet for the rig..... plan is not "blingy" .... will be used in an office setting ..... sleek and sedate rather than flashy .... think Porsche not Corvette. How do I start a build thread w/o a name








.... ?


----------



## ADragg

I just got done building my PC into the new case and it's fantastic! I have pictures that I will post soon and will post some thoughts but I don't have time to upload pics and everything tonight as I have a mid-term tomorrow. The case is awesome, though. Thanks for the suggestions on rebuilding into a new case and suggestions on where to put a 360 rad (a 360 is good enough as a starting point to build on for a CPU/GPU loop. No, I'm not keeping the H100i on the CPU, so I'm going to want a setup that can get me started for a decent price but still take care of the CPU and GPU).

BTW, I didn't even know this case had LED fans. They're nice, not the cheap looking ones. And the fans are very nice in general. They're 20 dollar Phanteks fans and probably as good as Corsair or Noctua at least. Only front two light up, though. I'm not sure if the other ones even have LED's on them because I haven't looked close enough, but there are connections in the case that say "fan led 1", "fan led 2", "fan led 3", etc, so I don't think it's just for the two front fans. I didn't plug in these individual connections because they're some two pronged tiny plug I've never seen. But there was a molex connector that powers the LED strip on the front and the two front intake fans, so that's how the front two are powered. I'm not sure what will happen if I send power to the little two pronged connectors. Either it's just prewired for LED's in different fans you might ad later, or the other fans in the case are LED fans too and just need power. I don't recall seeing anything about this in the manual.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dahl*
> 
> Just received one. I gotta say, while its options and build quality are impressive, the thing is huge!
> 
> I am coming from a cooler master haf 932, which I thought was large. The enthoo primo makes the 932 look like a child's toy. Seriously, the size difference is stunning.
> 
> Going to take a little getting used to. Although, I suppose anyone who has worked with a 900D before would feel right at home.


I definitely agree with this! I was pretty overwhelmed when I first saw it. I thought my Bitfenix Ghost was big but this thing dwarfs it. Crazy big case. Knowing the dimensions did not prepare me. Unless you have a ton of drives and multiple GPU's and need all kinds of room, I see no point in this case if you're not doing water-cooling.


----------



## jassilamba

For me when I was doing the review, I was really taken in by surprise of the quality of the case. I had helped Bill take apart a 900D, and when we were looking at the Enthoo, we were surprised by the quality of the case, and the fact that they used realy aluminum panels, and not some ultra thin brushed alu sheets (more like foils).

And yes its a huge, beautiful case.

Pictures ppl come on...


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ADragg*
> 
> [...] BTW, I didn't even know this case had LED fans. They're nice, not the cheap looking ones. And the fans are very nice in general. They're 20 dollar Phanteks fans and probably as good as Corsair or Noctua at least. Only front two light up, though. I'm not sure if the other ones even have LED's on them because I haven't looked close enough, but there are connections in the case that say "fan led 1", "fan led 2", "fan led 3", etc, so I don't think it's just for the two front fans. I didn't plug in these individual connections because they're some two pronged tiny plug I've never seen. But there was a molex connector that powers the LED strip on the front and the two front intake fans, so that's how the front two are powered. I'm not sure what will happen if I send power to the little two pronged connectors. Either it's just prewired for LED's in different fans you might ad later, or the other fans in the case are LED fans too and just need power. I don't recall seeing anything about this in the manual. [...]


Only the front two fans are LED fans, and there are connections for up to 4 more LED fans (of the kind like the Phanteks fans, that come with a separate 2 wired LED lead) and for an LED strip.

From pgs 5 & 11 in the manual:





I have a 38" UV LED strip from Ozium that I already wired up with a molex (for my UV acrylic tubing and GeLid UV fans) and my XSPC waterblocks for my CPU & GPUs and my XSPC res came with blue leds that I plan to wire up to the fan LED connections. I don't suppose the 2-pin connections look like this do they? (hope so as I have a bunch of them already)


----------



## chrisnyc75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ADragg*
> 
> I was pretty overwhelmed when I first saw it. I thought my Bitfenix Ghost was big but this thing dwarfs it. Crazy big case. Knowing the dimensions did not prepare me. Unless you have a ton of drives and multiple GPU's and need all kinds of room, I see no point in this case if you're not doing water-cooling.


It's definitely big, but if it were smaller it wouldn't be the 'perfect' watercooling case that it is.

But yeah, if you're not watercooling I'm not sure why you would even consider this case, I can't imagine what you'd do with the radiator space below the mobo -- maybe a window planter with some geraniums? lol


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Sooo jealous of everyone who has their case already. Mine should get delivered today, but will most likely it'll be after I head to work this afternoon.

I tried to request it be held for customer pickup, since I already drove right past the UPS facility today as I do most mornings, but didn't realize until afterward that they only open up the office for customer pickups for 45min in the evenings on weekdays when I'd be at work anyway, so I had to cancel that request. Sucks to have driven right by it today, knowing my case is in that building and hadn't left for delivery yet, but I couldn't pick it up and just have to wait for it to be delivered. Assuming it gets delivered later I won't get to lay eyes on it until tomorrow morning.


----------



## OutlawII

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Sooo jealous of everyone who has their case already. Mine should get delivered today, but will most likely it'll be after I head to work this afternoon.I tried to request it be held for customer pickup, since I already drove right past the UPS facility today as I do most mornings, but didn't realize until afterward that they only open up the office for customer pickups for 45min in the evenings on weekdays when I'd be at work anyway, so I had to cancel that request. Sucks to have driven right by it today, knowing my case is in that building and hadn't left for delivery yet, but I couldn't pick it up and just have to wait for it to be delivered. Assuming it gets delivered later I won't get to lay eyes on it until tomorrow morning.


Bummer dude its tough to wait I know the feeling! I'm at work so I have to wait till Friday night its killing me lol

Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk


----------



## jassilamba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Only the front two fans are LED fans, and there are connections for up to 4 more LED fans (of the kind like the Phanteks fans, that come with a separate 2 wired LED lead) and for an LED strip.
> 
> From pgs 5 & 11 in the manual:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have a 38" UV LED strip from Ozium that I already wired up with a molex (for my UV acrylic tubing and GeLid UV fans) and my XSPC waterblocks for my CPU & GPUs and my XSPC res came with blue leds that I plan to wire up to the fan LED connections. I don't suppose the 2-pin connections look like this do they? (hope so as I have a bunch of them already)
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


No they don't, but you can change them out pretty darn easy. Snip, and re-attach.

Once you have the front cover off, and the top panel off, you can gently pull off the IO panel (held in place by tabs like the front and the top panel). As you lift the IO panel off you can disconnect the FAN LED assemble plug (So if you were not use the Phanteks LED fans, you can remove it and not have the wire clutter). Once out of the case, you can easily change them out to what you need them to be.


----------



## rpjkw11

My new case arrived 15 minutes ago. I'm happy camper, indeed. Now to grab a cup of coffee and open the box.


----------



## bond32

Mine should be in any second! Excited...


----------



## dsmwookie

Incoming.


----------



## Hereisphilly

God this is killing me! Us Brits have 2 weeks yet to wait!
Can't wait for photos of builds tho


----------



## doyll

Still waiting to hear when


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Sucks to have driven right by it today, knowing my case is in that building and hadn't left for delivery yet, but I couldn't pick it up and just have to wait for it to be delivered. Assuming it gets delivered later I won't get to lay eyes on it until tomorrow morning.


I feel for ya ..... I ordered all the components going inside Tuesday ..... had 5 packaged delivered today ..... on one of the 3 newegg orders I added 3 day shipping (added $2) as opossed to 4-7. All 3 got here this morning. I won't say what has arrived and what not ..... but let's play What's Missing ?


----------



## dsmwookie

I see no GPU or mini fridge...I mean computer case.


----------



## whyscotty

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hereisphilly*
> 
> God this is killing me! Us Brits have 2 weeks yet to wait!
> Can't wait for photos of builds tho


It will be worth the wait


----------



## doyll

Two words starting with "E" and ending with "o"?









Edit: I want! I want!.


----------



## jassilamba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> I feel for ya ..... I ordered all the components going inside Tuesday ..... had 5 packaged delivered today ..... on one of the 3 newegg orders I added 3 day shipping (added $2) as opossed to 4-7. All 3 got here this morning. I won't say what has arrived and what not ..... but let's play What's Missing ?


The excitement of building a new system is always great. I really enjoyed working on the Enthoo, it was really really fun.

Great choice on the PSU.







and everything else.


----------



## mixman

My case should be at home soon. I am a little hesitant to have them leave it at my door, so I may have to go pick it up at UPS, about a 20 min drive. Unfortunately, I will not have all the parts yet, hopefully next week. Custom water sometime later next month. I have to use my Antec 920 for now.


----------



## jassilamba

Who all are planning a hard lined build using primochill fittings and clear tubing? If yes, check this out for tubing - http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/item.aspx?sku=44020&catid=440


----------



## chrisnyc75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> I feel for ya ..... I ordered all the components going inside Tuesday ..... had 5 packaged delivered today ..... on one of the 3 newegg orders I added 3 day shipping (added $2) as opossed to 4-7. All 3 got here this morning. I won't say what has arrived and what not ..... but let's play What's Missing ?


WOW., that's quite a spread! it's like an 'all you can eat' buffet for nerds! LOL

I'll have a watercooling gear order coming in from Frozencpu in a week or two that I'm sure will look a lot like that (I'm beginning to think I need a spare room just for all my spare/outgoing/incoming hardware! lol)


----------



## bond32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jassilamba*
> 
> Who all are planning a hard lined build using primochill fittings and clear tubing?


I'm using the Primochill primoflex yellow tubing, not the rigid however. My case should be in any minute now. Hopefully will have it up and running soon, will post pictures.


----------



## chrisnyc75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jassilamba*
> 
> Who all are planning a hard lined build using primochill fittings and clear tubing?


I considered it, I really love the clean lines of rigid tube builds. But I decided it was wiser to stick with regular flexible tubing for my first watercooling build, which promises to be challenging enough without adding rigid tubing to the equation.

And speaking of tubing, I can't for the life of me pick a color. lol My hardware is all red & black, so the obvious choice would be blood red uv tubes with a uv cathode, but I'm afraid the uv cathode (or 10! lol) won't adequately light the Enthoo's expansiveness. So now I'm thinking onyx black tubes with red LED lighting? Has anybody set up watercooling with acccent lighting inside the enthoo yet? How hard is it to get the uv to show off the tubing AND provide enough light to see what else is in there?


----------



## jassilamba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chrisnyc75*
> 
> I considered it, I really love the clean lines of rigid tube builds. But I decided it was wiser to stick with regular flexible tubing for my first watercooling build, which promises to be challenging enough without adding rigid tubing to the equation.
> 
> And speaking of tubing, I can't for the life of me pick a color. lol My hardware is all red & black, so the obvious choice would be blood red uv tubes with a uv cathode, but I'm afraid the uv cathode (or 10! lol) won't adequately light the Enthoo's expansiveness. So now I'm thinking onyx black tubes with red LED lighting? Has anybody set up watercooling with acccent lighting inside the enthoo yet? How hard is it to get the uv to show off the tubing AND provide enough light to see what else is in there?


I used some cheap ebay 5050 LED strips, and I'm really really impressed with the results.

Have you considered clear tubing with some red dye in it (not the pastel stuff, just plain red dye). I think that might look really really good.

There is enough space to mount an LED strip or any other lighting option you choose.


----------



## chrisnyc75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jassilamba*
> 
> I used some cheap ebay 5050 LED strips, and I'm really really impressed with the results.
> 
> Have you considered clear tubing with some red dye in it (not the pastel stuff, just plain red dye). I think that might look really really good.
> 
> There is enough space to mount an LED strip or any other lighting option you choose.


Is that white LEDs? I have 2 red LED sticks in my current build that would easily light the Enthoo, but I sort of want to use UV to highlight the tubing -- in which case clear tubing + dark red uv dye would definitely be the way to go. I just don't know if 2 or 3 uv cathodes will have much effect in all that space (and 'uv' LEDs aren't actually uv at all).

I've always hated white lighting in pc cases, but maybe the Enthoo is the case that's well designed enough that plain white lighting actually accentuates the design? I'll give that some consideration.


----------



## Hereisphilly

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chrisnyc75*
> 
> I considered it, I really love the clean lines of rigid tube builds. But I decided it was wiser to stick with regular flexible tubing for my first watercooling build, which promises to be challenging enough without adding rigid tubing to the equation.


This ^^

I figured I would get 1 build under my belt and then have a go at rigid tubing
After I've spend about £80 on fittings :-|
Its such a shame That you need new fittings to with the rigid tubing though
I've already thought out in my head that some of the routing would be better suited with rigid, but hey ho!

I've gone with solid white tubing, as I think it will work with the phanteks fans really well!


----------



## jassilamba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chrisnyc75*
> 
> Is that white LEDs? I have 2 red LED sticks in my current build that would easily light the Enthoo, but I sort of want to use UV to highlight the tubing -- in which case clear tubing + dark red uv dye would definitely be the way to go. I just don't know if 2 or 3 uv cathodes will have much effect in all that space (and 'uv' LEDs aren't actually uv at all).
> 
> I've always hated white lighting in pc cases, but maybe the Enthoo is the case that's well designed enough that plain white lighting actually accentuates the design? I'll give that some consideration.


Those are RGB LEDs set to white. You should not have any issues putting at least 3 cathodes, if not 4. And I agree UV Leds are not the same.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jassilamba*
> 
> Who all are planning a hard lined build using primochill fittings and clear tubing? If yes, check this out for tubing - http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/item.aspx?sku=44020&catid=440


nice find.... and 6' lengths woot..... I tried live chat feature t ask about 10/12 .... live chat was dead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dsmwookie*
> 
> I see no GPU or mini fridge...I mean computer case.


Ladies and Gentlemen .... we have a winner !

The irony never ends though .....Ordered a Mouse and 64 GB Mushkin Venture Pro USB stick to do the UFEI Windows install .... Box arrived this morning and fogured both inside...... but nooooooo .... USB won't get here till November 2nd. Must be a weight thing.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jassilamba*
> 
> Great choice on the PSU.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and everything else.


Well components mostly the usual suspects ..... Was either the Seasonic X-1250 or the Corsair AX and for $100 less, I'll take the Seasonic.....plus had $15 rebate and $25 newegg coupon deal









BTW, if anyone's wondering about the tools in the background, some of those (w/ asterisk) arrived this week too.

Calipers* - 146 - Digital Fractional Caliper .... very nice, good deal
Http://www.generaltools.com/146--Digital-Fractional-Calipers_p_1228.html

Wire Strippers* - Based upon Unicron's advice, grabbed this.... Irwin 'vice-grip' self adjusting wire stripper. Have 3 more, haven't decided which ones I like best.
www.amazon.com/Irwin-Industrial-Tools-2078300-Self-Adjusting/dp/B000OQ21CA/

Ruler / Gauge* - MNPCTech PC Modder Ruler & Gauge - Need to get some hand oils and dirt in the grooves on this so hopefully this old man can read it.

Extra Hands* - Was using Xacto X75170 X-tra Hands with Magnifier - total crap

..... this arrived today .....waaaayyyyyy better, the gooseneck on light could be a lil stiffer .... gets a little limp in certain positions (no viagra jokes). But this one ia HUGE improvement over the ones I had before
http://www.amazon.com/Helping-Hand-Magnifier-Solder-Holder/dp/B00B88B67E/ref=pd_sbs_t_20

The "unusual suspects" in the pic that may not be recognized ....

Telescoping Mirror Thingie - Lisle 32050 Telescoping Mirror
Telescoping Magnet Thingie - Ullman HT-3 Telescoping Hi-Tech Magnetic Pick-Up Tool

Well it's almost 6 pm and the mini-fridge has not yet arrived at NY depot as yet


----------



## jassilamba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> nice find.... and 6' lengths woot..... I tried live chat feature t ask about 10/12 .... live chat was dead
> Ladies and Gentlemen .... we have a winner !
> 
> The irony never ends though .....Ordered a Mouse and 64 GB Mushkin Venture Pro USB stick to do the UFEI Windows install .... Box arrived this morning and fogured both inside...... but nooooooo .... USB won't get here till November 2nd. Must be a weight thing.


Here is another link for 1/2" tubing. Metric tubing is gonna be little difficult to find in the US. That you might be better just getting E22, or look on amazon or ebay. But please google to make sure that there is no one available with 12mm tubing, and cheap price

http://www.eplastics.com/Extruded-Plexiglass-Acrylic-Tubing


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Can buy direct from China









http://www.tootoo.com/s-ps/acrylic-tube--p-6353340.html#.UmmZTRAnWmC


----------



## bond32

UPS is trolling me... Would have expected it by now.


----------



## bond32

Up and running. Will take more pictures later. Also adding lights later.




When the 780 lightning block is released from EK, that will be going in as well as I may add a single 120mm rad to the bottom if it fits with the two 140's... Or move my rx240 from the side to the bottom. Not sure yet. Either way, this case is huge. I know everyone says that, but it really is massive. Heavy too, almost too big. Don't know why I didn't expect that but oh well, I love it.

Edit again: it appears my xspc Bay results is leaking. Not too happy about it but it seems riddled with problems. Will likely try to fit my tank results in rather than using the dual bay.

One complaint, one of the rubber grommets, some rubber flaps just came right off when I was running the tubing. I wasn't rough with them, they just came right off. Not a huge deal.


----------



## jassilamba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> Up and running. Will take more pictures later. Also adding lights later.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When the 780 lightning block is released from EK, that will be going in as well as I may add a single 120mm rad to the bottom if it fits with the two 140's... Or move my rx240 from the side to the bottom. Not sure yet. Either way, this case is huge. I know everyone says that, but it really is massive. Heavy too, almost too big. Don't know why I didn't expect that but oh well, I love it.
> 
> One complaint, one of the rubber grommets, some rubber flaps just came right off when I was running the tubing. I wasn't rough with them, they just came right off. Not a huge deal.


Nicely done mate, and great speed. Technically if you add the GPU to the loop, you don't need more cooling power. What you have is enough.

The build looks good mate. The rubber grommets can be tricky sometimes.

The PSU placement, make cable management fun and easy.


----------



## bond32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jassilamba*
> 
> Nicely done mate, and great speed. Technically if you add the GPU to the loop, you don't need more cooling power. What you have is enough.
> 
> The build looks good mate. The rubber grommets can be tricky sometimes.
> 
> The PSU placement, make cable management fun and easy.


True, but I want to use it as I have it and there may be room for it (120mm rad). Also considering purchasing a 480mm rad, likely any of the xspc's as I am strapped for cash.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jassilamba*
> 
> The excitement of building a new system is always great. I really enjoyed working on the Enthoo, it was really really fun.
> 
> Great choice on the PSU.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and everything else.


I was scared to acquire my 32gigs of TridentX 2400mhz... All has turned out well though, and they OC great.


----------



## solowarrior

I finally got my beautiful Enthoo Primo this morning...took my time unboxing it...I felt like a kid on christmas day. Too bad my excitement didn't last long enough, after installing everything, my M6F didn't want to post. I kept getting error code 55 (memory not install). I after a quick googled search, I found someone sugesting to check for a bent cpu pin...well, I had 3 bent pins...just my luck! Newegg didn't want to RMA because it went pass 30 days...ASUS said they would fix for 80% of the value plus $15 shipping (bent cpu pins voids their warranty) . My solution? I took the MOBO outside and went at it with a hammer!







I guess my new build would have to wait.


----------



## jassilamba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *solowarrior*
> 
> I finally got my beautiful Enthoo Primo this morning...took my time unboxing it...I felt like a kid on christmas day. Too bad my excitement didn't last long enough, after installing everything, my M6F didn't want to post. I kept getting error code 55 (memory not install). I after a quick googled search, I found someone sugesting to check for a bent cpu pin...well, I had 3 bent pins...just my luck! Newegg didn't want to RMA because it went pass 30 days...ASUS said they would fix for 80% of the value plus $15 shipping (bent cpu pins voids their warranty) . My solution? I took the MOBO outside and went at it with a hammer!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I guess my new build would have to wait.


please tell me you didn't do that, at the least you should have tried this - http://www.overclock.net/t/1284733/guide-to-fix-bent-on-board-processor-pins-socket-lga-775-1155-etc


----------



## solowarrior

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jassilamba*
> 
> please tell me you didn't do that, at the least you should have tried this - http://www.overclock.net/t/1284733/guide-to-fix-bent-on-board-processor-pins-socket-lga-775-1155-etc


Damn! Maybe I should have googled that instead...sorry mate! No worries, I have another M6F coming...and a mangled M6F for spare parts...


----------



## skupples

I just imagine some guy in the Asus factory intentionally jamming his thumb into every 100th motherboard. "stupid americans, fwoop"

It took me four tries to get a MVF that didn't have bent pins. 2 of them came w/o shields, third one came OPENED, missing stuff, fourth one finally sealed, with lid, nothing missing. -Newegg.


----------



## jassilamba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> I just imagine some guy in the Asus factory intentionally jamming his thumb into every 100th motherboard. "stupid americans, fwoop"
> 
> It took me four tries to get a MVF that didn't have bent pins. 2 of them came w/o shields, third one came OPENED, missing stuff, fourth one finally sealed, with lid, nothing missing. -Newegg.


One of the primary reasons I but mine at micro center. Thank God there is one close buy.


----------



## dsmwookie

Well my trip was cancelled so building will commence tomorrow.


----------



## mixman

Got the case and and I am so impressed I am probably going to move my main rig from my Lian Li V2120 to the Phanteks. I am only cooling a cpu but it's a 3930K which is a hot beast. I am going to do a 480mm UT45 up top and a most likely a 240mm on the side I want to mount a UT45 there also. Over the top for a cpu rig I know but I can run it from full blast to almost dead quiet because I will not be pushing it my WC system.

Question....How deep is the 240mm rad I can put in the side with push/pull? I am not using a rad that will protrude into the cage area on the bottom so there should be no interference. I want to keep the bottom fans open to blow cool area up into the case.

Also.....Jesse, how silent is this case at full blast, with a system in it?


----------



## ADragg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Only the front two fans are LED fans, and there are connections for up to 4 more LED fans (of the kind like the Phanteks fans, that come with a separate 2 wired LED lead) and for an LED strip.
> 
> From pgs 5 & 11 in the manual:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have a 38" UV LED strip from Ozium that I already wired up with a molex (for my UV acrylic tubing and GeLid UV fans) and my XSPC waterblocks for my CPU & GPUs and my XSPC res came with blue leds that I plan to wire up to the fan LED connections. I don't suppose the 2-pin connections look like this do they? (hope so as I have a bunch of them already)


Thanks, must have missed that in the manual. That's awesome how it's pre-wired. All of the cabling is extremely nice in this case. They look like they're sleeved with normal nylon sleeving but it's sort of rubber coated. Not your typical case wiring. Very nice stuff. The built in cable management straps are SO handy as well. Love those. And again, the fans are very nice. Very high quality and quiet. The LED strip and LED fans in the front looks very sharp/professional. They're actually the nicest looking fans with LED's I've ever seen. Not your typical clear plastic with very focused LED light. Instead the white high quality plastic just glows a nice even color. And yes, the connectors are exactly what you posted. Not sure why I'm not familiar with them, but I've never done anything with internal LED's because I've never had a windowed case before.

You definitely get what you pay for in this case, and more, really. I think it's a bargain. I'm very big on attention to detail and pure quality, and this case screams quality and nice touches with details everywhere. This brand is really impressive.

I'm not sure what I want to do color wise in this case. I would love input from you guys. I was going to do an all green by replacing the LED strip on the front with green and a green internal glow with a slime green coolant. Or maybe just the green coolant and light the internals with a blue-ish white glow. But this case is too nice, I'm afraid of making it look cheap and taking the class away from it. So now I'm considering a blue-ish white glow inside (keeping blue front LED strip and fans) and using Mayhem Pastel Sunset Yellow coolant. Basically a copy of this (but probably cold cathode tubes for less concentrated light but more of a bright glow to light up the fluid). Let me know what you guys think:


----------



## ADragg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jassilamba*
> 
> No they don't, but you can change them out pretty darn easy. Snip, and re-attach.
> 
> Once you have the front cover off, and the top panel off, you can gently pull off the IO panel (held in place by tabs like the front and the top panel). As you lift the IO panel off you can disconnect the FAN LED assemble plug (So if you were not use the Phanteks LED fans, you can remove it and not have the wire clutter). Once out of the case, you can easily change them out to what you need them to be.


Are you sure? Is it possible you have a different version of the case? Because I'm fairly certain all of the fan led connections looked exactly like the ones in his picture. If it make any difference, I know they're the same connector that the Bitfenix Alchemy LED strips use, because that's what I installed today.


----------



## ADragg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jassilamba*
> 
> I used some cheap ebay 5050 LED strips, and I'm really really impressed with the results.
> 
> Have you considered clear tubing with some red dye in it (not the pastel stuff, just plain red dye). I think that might look really really good.
> 
> There is enough space to mount an LED strip or any other lighting option you choose.


Okay, I think that's exactly what I want with sunset yellow pastel coolant. Does it give off that blue-ish vibe in person, though? I don't want just pure white light in there. I want it to look like the picture and tie in with the front blue lights. Mostly just highlight the yellow tubing, but give a slight blue/yellow two-tone vibe.

Case lighting and coolant are color are serious business


----------



## jassilamba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ADragg*
> 
> Are you sure? Is it possible you have a different version of the case? Because I'm fairly certain all of the fan led connections looked exactly like the ones in his picture. If it make any difference, I know they're the same connector that the Bitfenix Alchemy LED strips use, because that's what I installed today.


You could be right and remember my case was a review sample. Irrespective they are easy to change.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ADragg*
> 
> Okay, I think that's exactly what I want with sunset yellow pastel coolant. Does it give off that blue-ish vibe in person, though? I don't want just pure white light in there. I want it to look like the picture and tie in with the front blue lights. Mostly just highlight the yellow tubing, but give a slight blue/yellow two-tone vibe.
> 
> Case lighting and coolant are color are serious business


Yes it does since I'm not using a white led strip. It's a rgb strip producing white which will never be pure white.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mixman*
> 
> Got the case and and I am so impressed I am probably going to move my main rig from my Lian Li V2120 to the Phanteks. I am only cooling a cpu but it's a 3930K which is a hot beast. I am going to do a 480mm UT45 up top and a most likely a 240mm on the side I want to mount a UT45 there also. Over the top for a cpu rig I know but I can run it from full blast to almost dead quiet because I will not be pushing it my WC system.
> 
> Question....How deep is the 240mm rad I can put in the side with push/pull? I am not using a rad that will protrude into the cage area on the bottom so there should be no interference. I want to keep the bottom fans open to blow cool area up into the case.
> 
> Also.....Jesse, how silent is this case at full blast, with a system in it?


I'm a fan of quiet so my fans are running at around 800RPM, I have never owned a case that has had sound dampening so I cannot compare to those. But with fans running full blast, the over case is does its best job of keeping things as quiet as possible.

Perfect example - I have my pump in the 5.25 drive bay, and if I leave it open I start to get annoyed by it, close it and I cannot hear anything. Sometimes I have to check to make sure that the PC is on lol.

Check out this video as i had the fans running full blast in this one -


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Oh man, my case is here and it's perfect. Sure enough, the 2-pin LED connections match up to the pre-wired connectors I already have. For anyone wondering, they are a '_JST 2-pin LED connector_'. I got a 50-pack of male and female pre-wired connectors a while back for ~$5 or so I believe off of ebay, as the Cosmo 2 also uses this connector for the LEDs.









I am so glad the case is actually here now, but now that it is there's really not a whole lot I get to do with if for probably a month or more from now before I'm done collecting everything I need to go in it.









Over the next couple days I'll probably fit my rads / fans in the top & bottom so I can work out the placement of this Photon270 res/pump combo that's just barely going to squeeze between them. I can also put the PSU in, and maybe start custom wiring / sleeving some of the fan & led cables, and well, that's about it. I had hoped I'd be further along by the time this case got here, but I've still got quite a ways to go.

I've still got to settle on a mobo/CPU/ram for this thing. I've been seriously eyeballing the RIV Black Edition that should get released in the next week or so & a 4930k to go with, which at this point is still the direction I'm leaning towards, but that'll set me back at least 2-3 weeks from now to finish scrimping/saving just for them, so it's possible I might just go with another Haswell mobo & 4770k instead for half the price, as I've also still got to get an SSD, probably a 500GB EVO, and at least one new 2TB-4TB HDD and even after all that I'll also have to get at least one new GPU to replace the GTX760s I'll be moving from the Cosmo 2. I'll probably just get another 760 though. I do LUV these cards. Dollar-for-dollar they're pretty hard to beat. Two 760s in SLI beats a Titan all-day everyday for roughly half the price, and with a little luck the price might drop on them a little more now that AMD has released their new cards. I'm sure hoping so anyway.


----------



## chrisnyc75

So, I finally figured out what I'm gonna do with the smaller window area.... I think I'm going to have the image in my avatar printed & cut on plexi and run a single white LED behind it so it glows from behind. Anybody have any suggestions for the best method of applying a translucent image to plexi/acrylic for backlighting? There's a lot of services that do photo mounting on acrylic, but the image needs to be translucent so it 'glows' from the backlighting.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Oh man, my case is here and it's perfect. ......
> 
> Over the next couple days I'll probably fit my rads / fans in the top & bottom so I can work out the placement of this Photon270 res/pump combo that's just barely going to squeeze between them. I can also put the PSU in, and maybe start custom wiring / sleeving some of the fan & led cables, and well, that's about it. I had hoped I'd be further along by the time this case got here, but I've still got quite a ways to go.
> 
> I've still got to settle on a mobo/CPU/ram for this thing. I've been seriously eyeballing the RIV Black Edition that should get released in the next week or so & a 4930k to go with, which at this point is still the direction I'm leaning towards, but that'll set me back at least 2-3 weeks from now to finish scrimping/saving just for them, so it's possible I might just go with another Haswell mobo & 4770k instead for half the price, as I've also still got to get an SSD, probably a 500GB EVO, and at least one new 2TB-4TB HDD and even after all that I'll also have to get at least one new GPU to replace the GTX760s I'll be moving from the Cosmo 2. I'll probably just get another 760 though. I do LUV these cards. Dollar-for-dollar they're pretty hard to beat. Two 760s in SLI beats a Titan all-day everyday for roughly half the price, and with a little luck the price might drop on them a little more now that AMD has released their new cards. I'm sure hoping so anyway.


Yesterday all my components arrived at 10:58 AM ..... it's 11:29 ..... damn where is this guy ?..... wonder if he stopped at a GF's along the route







Every tome a squirrel walks by, the dogs bark and I'm jumping outta my desk and running to the door / window.

As I'm also limiting it to two cards in SLI, I went w/ the M6F ..... I was waiting for the Poseidons but here we are 5 months after the announcement of the M6F and Poseidon at Comdex..... M6F is here two months already .... no word on the Poseidons...... I think I might just move up to the 780 DCIIs now ..... with the 780 Ti coming out (All nvidia cards will drop when this drops on or about November 15) ..... hoping the "regulah" 780 drops about $100. Nice thing about the 760's is their 8.6" length x 5.0 width ..... that's the one thing I have left to stress about ..... how to fit 770s (10.7 x 5.2) or 780s (11.3 x 5.8) and still fit a reservoir. I think the 780 is closer than or even the the same as the 770 in size once the cooler is removed. Been asking all around on the topic, no answers so far.

Either way I go with the GFX, anything else but the 760 means the res bracket is out. If you happen to use an alternate mounting, I'd be anxious to see pics as I'm still perplexed on this.

Fast RAM has a bear to get ....act fast .... newegg has in stock today ....

$190 Mushkin Enhanced Redline 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3 2400 10-12-12-28 Model 997122R (5 eggs)
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820226417
Shorter version there also for $180 which is what I always bought because didn't like look of the taller Ridgebacks in the newegg pics .... but now that I have seen them up close .... they gorgeously finished.

$235 CORSAIR Vengeance Pro 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3 2400 10-12-12-31 Model CMY16GX3M2A2400C10A (5 eggs)
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820233554

$175 G.SKILL Trident X Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3 2400 Model F3-2400C10D-16GTX (4 eggs)
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231589

while checking my delivery status....saw these newegg specials ....

Intel 4670k $220 w/ coupon code EMCWXVR23
Samsung 840 Pro 256 GB $210
Asus R4E $410 EMCWXVR33
Enthoo Primo $149.99 w/ coupon code YESIMJOKING

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chrisnyc75*
> 
> So, I finally figured out what I'm gonna do with the smaller window area.... I think I'm going to have the image in my avatar printed & cut on plexi and run a single white LED behind it so it glows from behind. Anybody have any suggestions for the best method of applying a translucent image to plexi/acrylic for backlighting? There's a lot of services that do photo mounting on acrylic, but the image needs to be translucent so it 'glows' from the backlighting.


I think the LED should pulse ! I have clear mylar I could print it on for ya ..... can do up to 24" x 36" .... sure ya don't want it on the big window ?


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> Yesterday all my components arrived at 10:58 AM ..... it's 11:29 ..... damn where is this guy ?..... wonder if he stopped at a GF's along the route smile.gif Every tome a squirrel walks by, the dogs bark and I'm jumping outta my desk and running to the door / window.


lol, I had to leave for work yesterday before my case was delivered. Had to bribe my nephew with a large pizza with whatever he wanted on it to stay here and sign for it when it got here. Totally worth it.








Quote:


> Nice thing about the 760's is their 8.6" length x 5.0 width ..... [...] the 760 means the res bracket is out. If you happen to use an alternate mounting, I'd be anxious to see pics as I'm still perplexed on this.


My reference 4GB 760s (EVGA 04G-P4-2766-KR) PCBs are less than 7" long with the blower cooler off of it. They'll fit fine in SLI in any slots alongside my res mounted to the res bracket. It's like my 760s were made just for this case.









The reference 760s use the same PCB design as reference GTX 670. Actually, my waterblocks are XSPC Razor GTX670s that fit my 760s perfectly. Here's the top view of one of my 760s, showing the short PCB alongside the XSPC 670 backplate.



And here's a shot I posted a while back of those short little waterblocks along with the backplates and a few other goodies ...


Quote:


> Fast RAM has a bear to get ....act fast .... newegg has in stock today ....


I'm not picky about memory. It'll be the last thing I buy more than a month from now most likely and I'll probably just get 1600 G-Skills. There's such a tiny performance gain for faster ram it's hardly worth it imho. I'd MUCH rather have 64GB of 1600 G.Skills than 32GB of 2400 Mushkins or Corsair.


----------



## skupples

If you are playing bf4, it has been shown to favor high speed RAM by a rather obscene amount. I think it's one of the first games iv'e seen where they report over 10fps difference from 1600 to 2400. Of course, this is coming out of corsairs lab, so grain of salt, wait for user replication.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Then I'll miss out of a few fps. Really doesn't bother me at all. If I was that worried about FPS in games I'd be better off to invest more in GPUs before I bought faster ram.

I keep my computers mostly for editing/encoding video - I work with anywhere from 100GB to 500GBs of source videos daily that keeps several machines busy - much more so than I do for playing games, although I'm not the only one who will be using this computer as it's going in the family room, and they will be more focused on playing games on it than I will be, but they've been more than happy so far with playing on the air cooled 760s SLI & I don't even overclock them, just the processor.

All that said, we will definitely be seeing just how BF4 does on it whenever I get it put together.


----------



## chrisnyc75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> I think the LED should pulse ! I have clear mylar I could print it on for ya ..... can do up to 24" x 36" .... sure ya don't want it on the big window ?


lol no, definitely in the smaller window - the big window is for showing off the sexy hardware inside.









I think mylar would be great for application TO the window itself, but I'm thinking more along the lines of a solid "plaque" mounted where the Phanteks logo is now. Something along the lines of this -> http://www.art.com/photostoart/acrylic_photo_printing . I just need to find a service that offers custom sizes and make sure the image itself will be translucent to let light through from behind.

Thanks for the tip, though - I'll think about the pulsing led idea.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> lol, I had to leave for work yesterday before my case was delivered. Had to bribe my nephew with a large pizza with whatever he wanted on it to stay here and sign for it when it got here. Totally worth it.


I work from home..... and if I go out, UPS dude and I have an understanding.....he doesn't leave stuff at my house, and I going to his when I get home









I'm not picky about memory. It'll be the last thing I buy more than a month from now most likely and I'll probably just get 1600 G-Skills. There's such a tiny performance gain for faster ram it's hardly worth it imho. I'd MUCH rather have 64GB of 1600 G.Skills than 32GB of 2400 Mushkins or Corsair.

yes.... I was same way .... until I looked at current pricing where there is very little price difference anymore.

These are Mushkin Redline but everyone else similar.... with the 1600s at $150 .... just $10 more gets ya 2133 .... $30 more gets ya 2400.

DDR3 1600 - CAS 8 - $153
DDR3 1600 - CAS 8 - $150R
GSkill Tridents are $170 but better timings

DDR3 1866 - CAS 9 - $165
DDR3 1866 - CAS 9 - $160R
GSkill Tridents are $175

DDR3 2133 - CAS 9 - $160
DDR3 2133 - CAS 9 - $165R
GSkill Tridents are $175

DDR3 2400 - CAS 10 - $180
DDR3 2400 - CAS 10R - $190
GSkill Tridents are $175 ... $5 less but Mushkin has slightly better timings

I'm always willing to pay a little more for the Muskies but was surprised when i checked just now that the Mushkins are cheaper at least up thru 2133....At those prices, 2133 was a no brainer and 2400 caused just a minute of hesitation








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> If you are playing bf4, it has been shown to favor high speed RAM by a rather obscene amount. I think it's one of the first games iv'e seen where they report over 10fps difference from 1600 to 2400. Of course, this is coming out of corsairs lab, so grain of salt, wait for user replication.


I have seen this in some game reviews before such as STALKER .... but where it really has an impact is on minimum frame rates which almost everybody never bothers to look at.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chrisnyc75*
> 
> lol no, definitely in the smaller window - the big window is for showing off the sexy hardware inside.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think mylar would be great for application TO the window itself, but I'm thinking more along the lines of a solid "plaque" mounted where the Phanteks logo is now. Something along the lines of this -> http://www.art.com/photostoart/acrylic_photo_printing . I just need to find a service that offers custom sizes and make sure the image itself will be translucent to let light through from behind.
> 
> Thanks for the tip, though - I'll think about the pulsing led idea.


I understood you to mean that you thought the photo applied to the acrylic wouldn't be translucent and wouldn't let the light thru.....so where I was going was..... print on mylar which is translucent and then apply that to the acrylic. I'm close enuff on Long Island (formerly Greenpoint Brooklyn) .... pop out, we'll draw it up, print up cupla copies and you're golden....costs nuthin besides the gas









Mylar has a smoked look so should diffuse the light well.


----------



## Roxycon

if youre into matching Phanteks fan review


----------



## mixman

Does anyone see why I cannot put a 60mm deep 240mm rad in push/pull on the side bracket?


----------



## jassilamba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mixman*
> 
> Does anyone see why I cannot put a 60mm deep 240mm rad in push/pull on the side bracket?


You just won't be able to use that space for HDDs, but other than that you should not have any issues,


----------



## chrisnyc75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> I understood you to mean that you thought the photo applied to the acrylic wouldn't be translucent and wouldn't let the light thru.....so where I was going was..... print on mylar which is translucent and then apply that to the acrylic. I'm close enuff on Long Island (formerly Greenpoint Brooklyn) .... pop out, we'll draw it up, print up cupla copies and you're golden....costs nuthin besides the gas
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mylar has a smoked look so should diffuse the light well.


Ah, gotcha -- that's an awesome offer, thank you so much







Let me dig into it and finalize my design plan and I'll be in touch.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roxycon*
> 
> if youre into matching Phanteks fan review


looks like another Grand Slam for Phanteks.....However, their quoted proces are $3 lower than newegg.
Quote:


> Price: $17.95/F140XP, $15.95/F140SP_LED, $14.95 F140SP USD Retail


And now they have me wondering whether to use PWM versions of fans for the rads due to the higher static pressure


----------



## jassilamba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> looks like another Grand Slam for Phanteks.....However, their quoted proces are $3 lower than newegg.
> And now they have me wondering whether to use PWM versions of fans for the rads due to the higher static pressure


Haven't seen the review, but if you can get high static pressure with PWM fans, then go for it.

I have all the PWM fans for the 480 in the bottom, hooked up to the swiftech 8 way PWM controller, and I will say, that is the best solution for fan speed control that I have ever used.


----------



## Roxycon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> looks like another Grand Slam for Phanteks.....However, their quoted proces are $3 lower than newegg.
> And now they have me wondering whether to use PWM versions of fans for the rads due to the higher static pressure


If only they take those grand entrys (and stays that way) into other parts of the computer market







i belive theyve made a great name for themselfs


----------



## bond32

Redid my loop already. Took me a long time actually. Initially I was bummed by the size of this case... I thought there was no way I'll fill this massive thing up. We'll now that I Redid some things it's a tight fit. Just patiently waiting on ek to release the lightning block now...


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jassilamba*
> 
> Haven't seen the review, but if you can get high static pressure with PWM fans, then go for it.
> 
> I have all the PWM fans for the 480 in the bottom, hooked up to the swiftech 8 way PWM controller, and I will say, that is the best solution for fan speed control that I have ever used.


From the review http://www.hitechlegion.com/reviews/cooling/heatsinks/37419-phanteks-f140?showall=&start=1

F140XP (PWM) - Static Pressure 0.39-1.52mm H2O
F140SP/F140SP_LED - Static Pressure 1.33mm H2O

Using PWM fans kinda kills the Phanteks provided PCB thingie and ya can't use the fans that came with the case.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roxycon*
> 
> If only they take those grand entrys (and stays that way) into other parts of the computer market
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i belive theyve made a great name for themselfs


PSU's would make most sense ... since almost everyone uses an OEM. And include a feature where there's two switches on back:

W Switch - tunes on power to pump
P Switch - turns on power to everything else.

Seasonic has the hybrid fan switch ... this seems like a simple addition.

And a fan controller ... they already have the PCB thingie ... wouldn't take much from there.

Though first I hope they concentrating on selling parts .... I still need a pair of the PCBs and a pump sled....just the pad part.

Ohhh.... BTW, building now


----------



## Roxycon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> From the review http://www.hitechlegion.com/reviews/cooling/heatsinks/37419-phanteks-f140?showall=&start=1
> 
> F140XP (PWM) - Static Pressure 0.39-1.52mm H2O
> F140SP/F140SP_LED - Static Pressure 1.33mm H2O
> 
> Using PWM fans kinda kills the Phanteks provided PCB thingie and ya can't use the fans that came with the case.
> PSU's would make most sense ... since almost everyone uses an OEM. And include a feature where there's two switches on back:
> 
> W Switch - tunes on power to pump
> P Switch - turns on power to everything else.
> 
> Seasonic has the hybrid fan switch ... this seems like a simple addition.
> 
> And a fan controller ... they already have the PCB thingie ... wouldn't take much from there.
> 
> Though first I hope they concentrating on selling parts .... I still need a pair of the PCBs and a pump sled....just the pad part.
> 
> Ohhh.... BTW, building now




Psu probably aint that far away







shown at computex


----------



## JackNaylorPE

So far ..... better than any case I have ever used......most grommet locations perfect. Only one that wasn't .... of course...was the 24 pin which was dead smack between 2 of them .

Question .... what's with the non standard Molex connections ?

a. One labeled 12V input doesn't have the customary socket shape all squares and won't plug into anything



b. LED one is wrong gender.



My little nitpicks

1. Few nicks in the finish on the panel with the Phanteks logo on it (the one ya see thru window)

2. Side Bracket was not square top screw holes didn't line up ..... off about 2 screw hole diameters vertically

3. Manual is poor ..... like every other case manual.

4. Quality of Molex connectors is poor .... several were misaligned .... two popped metal plugs outta connector when joining. Other I had to take apart and repair. Pin clips were bent over backwards. Ends wire split and had jagged edges that I had to grind down.

5. SSD brackets should be moved forward .... If ya don't want SSD's going right into MoBo area, ya gotta make a real tight turn.

Major Setback ..... M6F has no DVI port, only DP and HDMI .... of course I discovered this at 10 pm just when all the stores are closing.







How am I supposed to sleep now ?


----------



## bond32

Lol, looks like that molex is backwards. Should be flipped, pins go in square side. 2 middle are ground I believe, far right if looking at it with flat side down is +12 (other is +5v).


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Your right on the 12 volt .... Didn't even think to look at the other side .... they have green wire on the outside and yellow on the inside next to it.... all others wired same.

They prolly rushed it cause of all the complainers on OCN







..... (I resemble that remark)

Still confused on the 1st on though .... back side of 2nd pic looks like 1st pic....can't plug into either side.

Can someone confirm they didn't whack this all up ?

Coming out of Fan PCB I have:

Top
Green -> Yellow on PSU
Yellow -> Black on PSU
Blank
Blank

Coming out of 12V input
As above


----------



## bond32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> Your right on the 12 volt .... Didn't even think to look at the other side .... they have green wire on the outside and yellow on the inside next to it.... all others wired same.
> 
> They prolly rushed it cause of all the complainers on OCN
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ..... (I resemble that remark)
> 
> Still confused on the 1st on though .... back side of 2nd pic looks like 1st pic....can't plug into either side.


That's the molex I was talking about, the pins inside you can slide out and flip the plastic around. That connector is to power the LED's in the case. The pins go in the square side, and the other side should be a female molex connection.


----------



## dsmwookie

Almost done for a week till new lines and another radiator shows up.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chrisnyc75*
> 
> Is that white LEDs? I have 2 red LED sticks in my current build that would easily light the Enthoo, but I sort of want to use UV to highlight the tubing -- in which case clear tubing + dark red uv dye would definitely be the way to go. I just don't know if 2 or 3 uv cathodes will have much effect in all that space (and *'uv' LEDs aren't actually uv at all*).
> 
> I've always hated white lighting in pc cases, but maybe the Enthoo is the case that's well designed enough that plain white lighting actually accentuates the design? I'll give that some consideration.


Actually, Juggalo (OCN water cooling editor) always recommends UV LED lighting by Oznium (they're primarily marketed for undercarriage/grill/under-hood UV lighting for vehicles) and they seem to work pretty good. Look pretty 'UV' to me AFAICT. I grabbed a 38" strip from them to go in my Enthoo Primo. Here's juggalo's build:





.
edit:

One thing though. The Enthoo Primo manual says the molex LED connection supports "_<1A_" (up to 1 Amp), and @ 358 mA the 38" UV strip from Oznium is less than half that, but the manual also says "_max 50 LEDs per connection_". which confuses me. The 38" strip from Oznium has a lot more than 50 LEDs. I was counting them and when I got to 50 I wasn't but about half way through the strip. I'm definitely planning on using it anyway, as I assume the max Amps is what really matters. No?


----------



## jassilamba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Actually, Juggalo (OCN water cooling editor) always recommends UV LED lighting by Oznium (they're primarily marketed for undercarriage/grill/under-hood UV lighting for vehicles) and they seem to work pretty good. Look pretty 'UV' to me AFAICT. I grabbed a 38" strip from them to go in my Enthoo Primo. Here's juggalo's build:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> edit:
> 
> One thing though. The Enthoo Primo manual says the molex LED connection supports "_<1A_" (up to 1 Amp), and @ 358 mA the 38" UV strip from Oznium is less than half that, but the manual also says "_max 50 LEDs per connection_". which confuses me. The 38" strip from Oznium has a lot more than 50 LEDs. I was counting them and when I got to 50 I wasn't but about half way through the strip. I'm definitely planning on using it anyway, as I assume the max Amps is what really matters. No?


Correct. My led strip had way more than 50 leds and it's been working fine.


----------



## bond32

Starting to warm up even more to this case. I really wasn't prepared for the massive size of it. Came from a HAF XB -> Corsair 540 -> this so it's really my first full tower. The included fans are excellent... I have all 5 to the pwm splitter and it works just like it should. During full load the fans are about as loud as others and they move some good air. I would say the sp120's are still much louder at full blast.

Ambient temps have dropped here quite a bit, but it's interesting how the 780 lightning temps are so much lower too. I suppose that should be correct though, I have 16 fans in the case.

780 load temps at stock voltage are 60-61C. This is on air. Still waiting on EK's block...


----------



## jassilamba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> Starting to warm up even more to this case. I really wasn't prepared for the massive size of it. Came from a HAF XB -> Corsair 540 -> this so it's really my first full tower. The included fans are excellent... I have all 5 to the pwm splitter and it works just like it should. During full load the fans are about as loud as others and they move some good air. I would say the sp120's are still much louder at full blast.
> 
> Ambient temps have dropped here quite a bit, but it's interesting how the 780 lightning temps are so much lower too. I suppose that should be correct though, I have 16 fans in the case.
> 
> 780 load temps at stock voltage are 60-61C. This is on air. Still waiting on EK's block...


The block is gonna be out in less than a week... have you seen it yet?


----------



## bond32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jassilamba*
> 
> The block is gonna be out in less than a week... have you seen it yet?


I saw a facebook post about 2 weeks ago about it that said it would be out in a week. An EK rep said in the EK forum should be soon, they have been machined/packaged but they are slowed down because of the amd cards being released.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> That's the molex I was talking about, the pins inside you can slide out and flip the plastic around. That connector is to power the LED's in the case. The pins go in the square side, and the other side should be a female molex connection.


No...the pins are ALREADY on the square side



llll


----------



## bond32

That's the way it should be then. That goes to any LED/something that needs 12 v and gives you a switch.


----------



## bond32

Now that I have some time, thought I would share some more thoughts on this case.

1. I have both the XSPC dual bay res for D5 single and an xspc tank reservoir. I initially started with the bay res as I thought it would be best for filling/bleeding. I quickly found it was leaking - seems many have had this problem. I also found it was rather noisy and vibration was a bit much to me. So I was able to mount the tank reservoir on the pump base where the lower drive cage goes and vibration has improved significantly.

2. Filter quality - I see the filter quality isn't the best. On the bottom two filters, both have holes in them. Not a huge deal really, just wish it was a little better.

3. As JackNaylorPE noted earlier, when I was initially preparing the case I noticed on the bottom where the drive cages were the paint was scratched. Again not a huge deal, just something to note.

4. Completely my fault, but somehow I messed one of the fans up. I think I dropped something on it while it was running and knocked it off balance so now it has a slight noise to it.

5. Does anyone else's case creak? I am noticing while playing bf3, I hear the case creaking from time to time. I suppose this is due to the temperature changes all around plus the ambient right now is rather low, but still interesting.

6. The rear area is just a hair too small when putting the back panel on. I wish it was slightly bigger, I'm using 1/2 '' OD primoflex tubing which is very stiff. I wanted to run the inlet to the top radiator through the back which I did, however it is a very tight fit. Again not a huge deal really.

7. Power button - Wish it was on the top not the front. I have accidentally pressed it many times just trying to scoot the case around.

Edit: How does the PWM fan hub work? Is it dependant on the RPM range of the fan connected to fan 1 or is PWM control a percentage across all fans?

Edit again: Here's another picture. Note the giant Enthoo Primo lol.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> That's the way it should be then. That goes to any LED/something that needs 12 v and gives you a switch.


Ok, thanks.... here I am thinking I am supposed to plug it in to make somethong work

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> Now that I have some time, thought I would share some more thoughts on this case.
> 
> 5. Does anyone else's case creak? I am noticing while playing bf3, I hear the case creaking from time to time. I suppose this is due to the temperature changes all around plus the ambient right now is rather low, but still interesting.


I notice the windowed side panel makes noises when moving it around.

Quote:


> 6. The rear area is just a hair too small when putting the back panel on. I wish it was slightly bigger, I'm using 1/2 '' OD primoflex tubing which is very stiff. I wanted to run the inlet to the top radiator through the back which I did, however it is a very tight fit. Again not a huge deal really.


A bit back I made mention of dimensional issues ..... gonna have to collect these and get them to Phanteks for Enthoo II
Quote:


> Edit: How does the PWM fan hub work? Is it dependent on the RPM range of the fan connected to fan 1 or is PWM control a percentage across all fans?


That's my understanding, haven't had opportunity to test yet..... still trying to get Windows installed under UEFI on GPP RAID 0 SSDs

Im gonna repeat another one from a few pages back.... the only "ugly" wiring I have is SATA power..... had to use 4 PSU cables (2 HDS. SSD1, SSD2, Optical). Really shuda been a STA power blackplane here. Something like the Antec DF-85 .... Slide it in and its plugged in.

EDIT: OK, wifie was complaining about mess ..... *Undocumented feature:*

One side of the case packaging foam has a little bench on the inside to account for the right side being shorter.... if ya pay attention to that, take ya monitor box, turn it sideways (horizontal) and make sure ya miss the lil bench, the 24" monitor box (at least the Asus 144 Hz job) will just fit in by a hair and ya can store monitor box inside the Enthoo box ..... and then ..... all my component boxes fit inside Enthoo box after monitor .... Giant Seasonic PSU, KB, Nose, CPU, memory, HDs, Optical prolly get the Rads, Reservoir, pump and other odds and ends in there to


----------



## Dahl

Just finishing up my build now. Noticed a couple things.

The fan controller. I hooked all my fans into this, plugged in the molex power, and then plugged the controller into my board. All the fans work fine, but I can't seem to control them from my bios or mobo software. As a result, they are all running at full speed. Makes this case extremely loud. Anyone else have this issue?

The other problem I am having is the HD audio connector doesn't seem to be working. I just took this board out of another case and the HD audio worked fine. About to send phantek a message to see how I can get this fixed. I am going to be extremely annoyed if I have to tear everything down and ship back the case for a bum audio connector. On the flip side though, I use front audio all the time (headphones and mic) and there is no way I am cool with them not working.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Ok with the case here, measured everything out ..... figured someone else might find it useful. Basically shows where things line up in relation to MoBo and Case with:

45mm Rads in top and bottom
60mm Rads in top and bottom
80mm Rads in top and bottom

Available Heights in 5.25" Bay areas
Available Heights in 3.50" Bay areas

If ya leave the reservoir bracket w/ cover plate in, no way I could make bend with 24 pin.... MoBo manufacturers have rotated all the SATA plugs, why leave the Big USB and 24 pin sticking straight outta the board ? Can see this on budget boards where case fit is an issue but not on an enthusiast board.

Anyway here's the img file.... kinda hard to read on the forum....it's an 11 x 17 image .... I can send to anyone who wants as AutoCAD *.dwg



PDF Copy Below

EnthooDimensions.pdf 177k .pdf file


BTW, just cleaning up and moved the case .... the lil wifi antenna fell to the table and I thought "I sure am glad this MoBo came w/ that WiFi module since this machine is so portable, I'll certainly be taking it w/ me everywhere I go.

As a water cooling box..... if ya doing twin GPus, as big as it is, it seems to be a bit tight ... just a half inch here or there woulda made things better. Seems if ya using 760's the reservoir mount works ..... also looks like a 60mm works ...... but with just 71mm of space (and that's based upon air cooled GFX) I sure wish I coulda got in a 75 glass res instead of acrylic..

Suggestions welcome.

Anyone have a source for GFX card dimensions after ya take off the big air coolers and install (EK) WBs ?


----------



## bond32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dahl*
> 
> Just finishing up my build now. Noticed a couple things.
> 
> The fan controller. I hooked all my fans into this, plugged in the molex power, and then plugged the controller into my board. All the fans work fine, but I can't seem to control them from my bios or mobo software. As a result, they are all running at full speed. Makes this case extremely loud. Anyone else have this issue?
> 
> The other problem I am having is the HD audio connector doesn't seem to be working. I just took this board out of another case and the HD audio worked fine. About to send phantek a message to see how I can get this fixed. I am going to be extremely annoyed if I have to tear everything down and ship back the case for a bum audio connector. On the flip side though, I use front audio all the time (headphones and mic) and there is no way I am cool with them not working.


On the front audio, make sure your board is set for hd audio and not ac'97.


----------



## jassilamba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> On the front audio, make sure your board is set for hd audio and not ac'97.


What he said ^. The Enthoo does not support AC 97.


----------



## Dahl

No, it is HD audio. I had to fiddle with the connector for a bit, but I got it working. I think the connections had come loose inside the black plastic housing.


----------



## jassilamba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dahl*
> 
> No, it is HD audio. I had to fiddle with the connector for a bit, but I got it working. I think the connections had come loose inside the black plastic housing.


Glad it worked out.


----------



## dsmwookie

Woot up and running with no leaks. A few more hours of testing before I seal her up. Can't decide on a fan controller.


----------



## mixman

Which one......A 480mm Alphacool Monsta up top in pull or a 480mm XT45 in push/pull ? I should be able to fit a Monsta at the top with my ram, but it will be tight. I can if I have to mount the Monsta in push/pull at the bottom, but i kinda prefer the top if I can. Since there are no 480mm UT60's around it's between the Monsta and the XT45. To keep the build simple, I just want one rad to cool my 3930 and keep the fans low and quiet.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> Ok with the case here, measured everything out ..... figured someone else might find it useful. Basically shows where things line up in relation to MoBo and Case with:
> 
> 45mm Rads in top and bottom
> 60mm Rads in top and bottom
> 80mm Rads in top and bottom
> 
> Available Heights in 5.25" Bay areas
> Available Heights in 3.50" Bay areas
> 
> If ya leave the reservoir bracket w/ cover plate in, no way I could make bend with 24 pin.... MoBo manufacturers have rotated all the SATA plugs, why leave the Big USB and 24 pin sticking straight outta the board ? Can see this on budget boards where case fit is an issue but not on an enthusiast board.
> 
> Anyway here's the img file.... kinda hard to read on the forum....it's an 11 x 17 image .... I can send to anyone who wants as AutoCAD *.dwg, PDF, fill size image file.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> BTW, just cleaning up and moved the case .... the lil wifi antenna fell to the table and I thought "I sure am glad this MoBo came w/ that WiFi module since this machine is so portable, I'll certainly be taking it w/ me everywhere I go.
> 
> As a water cooling box..... if ya doing twin GPus, as big as it is, it seems to be a bit tight ... just a half inch here or there woulda made things better. Seems if ya using 760's the reservoir mount works ..... also looks like a 60mm works ...... but with just 71mm of space (and that's based upon air cooled GFX) I sure wish I coulda got in a 75 glass res instead of acrylic..
> 
> 
> 
> Suggestions welcome.
> 
> Anyone have a source for GFX card dimensions after ya take off the big air coolers and install (EK) WBs ?


Nice bit of work.


----------



## OutlawII

Ok question for everyone do i hook power up to the molex connector on the pwm hub? The sticker says go to website for mobo compatibility but i dont see anything on the site,its a Asus Hero if that matters


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Nice bit of work.


Attached the PDF to the original post

E-mailed ya the PDF and CAD files.

Based upon the drawing, I'm thinking I can fit a EK or other 60 mm reservoir near, not necessarily on, the bracket up and against the back of the 5.25" bays...... It will be tight with GTX 770's (71mm) but the Photon (75mm) or Aqualis (800mm) is definitely out. 760's are fine with anything but ya can't get a Full Cover WB for those. It does seem odd that they didn't think that for an extra inch of depth, they could fit 780's in there with
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dsmwookie*
> 
> Woot up and running with no leaks. A few more hours of testing before I seal her up. Can't decide on a fan controller.


Looked at the Six Eyes ? I like it cause buttons "press and stay in" when door is closed / "press and stay out" when fiddling.

Got an e-mail from Bucky.... Frozen has in stock
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/21571/bus-366/Reeven_RFC-01_Six_Eyes_525_Bay_Fan_Controller_Temperature_Display_-_Black.html

Review here:





Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OutlawII*
> 
> Ok question for everyone do i hook power up to the molex connector on the pwm hub? The sticker says go to website for mobo compatibility but i dont see anything on the site,its a Asus Hero if that matters


I think they better fix that ..... unless they wanna start replacing peeps MoBo's

1. Most MoBo fan headers have 1 maybe 2 amp limit.....the fans are 0.14 amp .... that would be 7 max and that's if ya don't include an allowance for inrush current. If someone put in their two 480s in push - pull, those 16 fans would blow the header.

2. As you said, it's not on the web site.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mixman*
> 
> Which one......A 480mm Alphacool Monsta up top in pull or a 480mm XT45 in push/pull ? I should be able to fit a Monsta at the top with my ram, but it will be tight. I can if I have to mount the Monsta in push/pull at the bottom, but i kinda prefer the top if I can. Since there are no 480mm UT60's around it's between the Monsta and the XT45. To keep the build simple, I just want one rad to cool my 3930 and keep the fans low and quiet.


Looks tight .... I don't think the RAM will be the worry for most.... I see the same issue as Jesse pointed out. For me, the CPU wire(s) coming down making that 180 bend look to be the limiting factor as well as the heat sink.

The attached pic has the caliper set to the Monsta's depth .... I figure lengthwise, ya have about 500mm between the plastic thingies that snap in the case top and the front plate at top of 5.25" bays .... this keeps the rear fan from being a consideration. My RAM sits 50mm off the MoBo (and 105mm below the rad mounting plate), and the MoBo heat sink sits MoBo heat sink sits 34mm above the MoBo and 75 below the the Rad mounting plate. Doing some math, fan / rad mount holes are 8 mm from edge and the top of my RAM lines up with that centerline.....so the edge of the Rad should be 42mm (50 mm RAM height - 8mm to fan edge) off MoBo surface. For my heat sink at least (34mm off MoBo), that gives ya 8mm to spare between rad and heat sink with a Monsta .... a 140mm would hit it if deeper than 75mm.

If case was > 4 mm wider here, it would fit 140mm wide Rads








If case was > 6 mm taller 80mm, 120 wide Rad in P/P (86+25) would miss the RAM (at least on M6F)
If case was > 11 mm taller 80mm, 140 wide Rad in would miss the HS (at least on M6F)
If case was > 10 mm taller 60mm, 140 wide Rad in would miss the HS in P/P (at least on M6F)

But getting back to your situation .... I don't think the RAM or MoBo heat sinks will be as much of an issue as the CPU's EPS cable if it's located in the normal upper left location.

BTW, why doesn't anyone make 90 degree socket adapters ?

....................................
..................O................

The "O" is a hinge.... to build it ya rotate the hinge 180 degrees so it's easy to assemble. Then just rotate it back to 90 or whatever angle ya want to use .... could have clock stops .... Of course when ya rotate, the wires get slightly shorter so ya have different size rods to slide under the individually sleeved cable to keep taught and pretty.... eliminates wild turns and let's case modders show off their sleeving


----------



## jassilamba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OutlawII*
> 
> Ok question for everyone do i hook power up to the molex connector on the pwm hub? The sticker says go to website for mobo compatibility but i dont see anything on the site,its a Asus Hero if that matters


Yup plug in a molex to the phanteks fan controller, and take the pwm connector and plug that into any fan header on the mobo. Don't worry if it's not on the list.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mixman*
> 
> Which one......A 480mm Alphacool Monsta up top in pull or a 480mm XT45 in push/pull ? I should be able to fit a Monsta at the top with my ram, but it will be tight. I can if I have to mount the Monsta in push/pull at the bottom, but i kinda prefer the top if I can. *Since there are no 480mm UT60's around* it's between the Monsta and the XT45. To keep the build simple, I just want one rad to cool my 3930 and keep the fans low and quiet.


FYI: Most places should be getting new Alphacool stock within the next week or two. For example, Aquatuning's site says they'll have 480 UT60s ready to ship Nov 8.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dahl*
> 
> Just finishing up my build now. Noticed a couple things.
> 
> The fan controller. I hooked all my fans into this, plugged in the molex power, and then plugged the controller into my board. All the fans work fine, but I can't seem to control them from my bios or mobo software. As a result, they are all running at full speed. Makes this case extremely loud. Anyone else have this issue?


Are you using the included Phanteks fans or other 3-pin (non-PWM) fans? (if so what fans are they?)
Do you have the PWM cable connected to the CPU_FAN port on the mobo?

- edit: ooops, sorry for the double post. Meant to add to my post above. Oh well.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jassilamba*
> 
> Yup plug in a molex to the phanteks fan controller, and take the pwm connector and plug that into any fan header on the mobo. Don't worry if it's not on the list.


I used CPU_OPT so as to keep everything going with CPU profile

BTW, Jesse , you I remember you mentioning what might fit reservoir wise on the bracket .... in the drawing in Post # 906, I figured we'd have 71 mm w/ GTX 770s between the card edge and back of 5.25" bays (56mm w/ 780s and 124 w/ 760's). The 760s only have partial WBs so that eliminates them for a lot of people.... the 780s don't allow enough room so the 770s would appear to be the "Goldilocks" solution if ya wanted to mount 60mm res there......still would require ya to mod the mounting plate and wouldn't be an easy install. Back of case is as ya said, less elegant and a bit cluttered looking I think. Toying with the idea of horizontal mount.

However my main beef is that getting dimensions is hard .... actual dimensions of GFX cards w/ WB's mounted I haven't been able to find. And "real" dimensions of reservoirs are incomplete as they don't include the mounting bracket.

I think i will start a thread on this....maybe peeps will volunteer to provide what they haven and we'll have a source of information we all can draw on.


----------



## OutlawII

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jassilamba*
> 
> Yup plug in a molex to the phanteks fan controller, and take the pwm connector and plug that into any fan header on the mobo. Don't worry if it's not on the list.


Thanks dude!


----------



## Dahl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Are you using the included Phanteks fans or other 3-pin (non-PWM) fans? (if so what fans are they?)
> Do you have the PWM cable connected to the CPU_FAN port on the mobo?


I am using the Phanteks fans, and 3 corsair sp120s which are 3-pins. I have the PWM connected to my chasis 1 port on the mobo. That port should still be controllable, but should I switch to CPU_OPT? CPU_FAN is already used by my CPU cooler.


----------



## Dahl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> Looked at the Six Eyes ? I like it cause buttons "press and stay in" when door is closed / "press and stay out" when fiddling.
> 
> Got an e-mail from Bucky.... Frozen has in stock
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/21571/bus-366/Reeven_RFC-01_Six_Eyes_525_Bay_Fan_Controller_Temperature_Display_-_Black.html
> 
> Review here:


Any idea how many watts per channel? This looks perfect but I couldn't find any specs for the output. At this point its pretty much between the Six Eyes and the Sentry Mix 2 (http://www.amazon.com/Sentry-Mesh-Controller-Watts-Channels/dp/B005C31G30)


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dahl*
> 
> Any idea how many watts per channel? This looks perfect but I couldn't find any specs for the output. At this point its pretty much between the Six Eyes and the Sentry Mix 2 (http://www.amazon.com/Sentry-Mesh-Controller-Watts-Channels/dp/B005C31G30)


Withe the Phanteks PCBs, I never thought about the wattage outputs ... of course I am assuming we can buy more.

I plan on monitoring / controlling:

1. Monitor Water Temp - Control Top Rad Fans
2. Monitor Water Temp - Control Bottom Rad Fans
3. Monitor Water Temp - Control Front Rad Fans (Assuming add one)
4. Monitor Inside Case Temps - Control Case Fans
5. Monitor Ambient Air - Control House HVAC (kidding)
6. Monitor I dunno .... maybe HD temps .... maybe wife's blood pressure when another FrozenCPU bill arrives.

But looking here:

http://www.overclockerstech.com/reeven-sixeyes-fan-controller-review/2/
Quote:


> Specifications
> Fan Controller Six Channel fan controller
> RFC-01 Six Temperature Monitors
> Passive Safety Built-in Safe Alarm Feature
> Retractable Dial
> 
> Dimensions: 148 x 42 x 100 mm / 6.3 x1.65 x 3.93 in
> Temperature: Six Channel Temperature Monitor
> Temperature Range 0~100oC / 32~199oF
> Fan Channels: 1 AMP per channel = just over 12


If ya wanna power all the fans from the controller, I think ya gotta go Lamptron .... hopefully Phanteks will unzip the lips soon and tell us when we can buy spare parts.

BTW, if any of you ever wrestlednwith "what fits" issues and wondering if ya res will fit as long as ya GFX is card is so wide or so long ..... please contribute any known information from WC cards ya do have here:

http://www.overclock.net/t/1437498/data-resource-for-wcers-gfx-card-dimensions

6 views no data so far


----------



## bond32

I wouldn't mind buying a second PWM pcb board...


----------



## Roxycon

@jack, i could send you a pm with both gtx 670 ftw sig2 and gtx 560ti twin frozr, but that would be in cm and mm









Regarding the res bracket in the middle, assuming my gfx cards dont go beyond my mb (sabertooth z77) how much vertical space would i have left after installing a 480 monsta, a 480 xt45 and three sets of 25mm thick fans? Toying with the idea of a thin 360 rad in the middle after seeing linus(techtips) installing a rad right there in a 900d


----------



## mixman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *mixman*
> 
> Which one......A 480mm Alphacool Monsta up top in pull or a 480mm XT45 in push/pull ? I should be able to fit a Monsta at the top with my ram, but it will be tight. I can if I have to mount the Monsta in push/pull at the bottom, but i kinda prefer the top if I can. Since there are no 480mm UT60's around it's between the Monsta and the XT45. To keep the build simple, I just want one rad to cool my 3930 and keep the fans low and quiet.
> 
> 
> 
> Looks tight .... I don't think the RAM will be the worry for most.... I see the same issue as Jesse pointed out. For me, the CPU wire(s) coming down making that 180 bend look to be the limiting factor as well as the heat sink.
> 
> The attached pic has the caliper set to the Monsta's depth .... I figure lengthwise, ya have about 500mm between the plastic thingies that snap in the case top and the front plate at top of 5.25" bays .... this keeps the rear fan from being a consideration. My RAM sits 50mm off the MoBo (and 105mm below the rad mounting plate), and the MoBo heat sink sits MoBo heat sink sits 34mm above the MoBo and 75 below the the Rad mounting plate. Doing some math, fan / rad mount holes are 8 mm from edge and the top of my RAM lines up with that centerline.....so the edge of the Rad should be 42mm (50 mm RAM height - 8mm to fan edge) off MoBo surface. For my heat sink at least (34mm off MoBo), that gives ya 8mm to spare between rad and heat sink with a Monsta .... a 140mm would hit it if deeper than 75mm.
> 
> If case was > 4 mm wider here, it would fit 140mm wide Rads
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If case was > 6 mm taller 80mm, 120 wide Rad in P/P (86+25) would miss the RAM (at least on M6F)
> If case was > 11 mm taller 80mm, 140 wide Rad in would miss the HS (at least on M6F)
> If case was > 10 mm taller 60mm, 140 wide Rad in would miss the HS in P/P (at least on M6F)
> 
> But getting back to your situation .... I don't think the RAM or MoBo heat sinks will be as much of an issue as the CPU's EPS cable if it's located in the normal upper left location.
> 
> BTW, why doesn't anyone make 90 degree socket adapters ?
> 
> ....................................
> ..................O................
> 
> The "O" is a hinge.... to build it ya rotate the hinge 180 degrees so it's easy to assemble. Then just rotate it back to 90 or whatever angle ya want to use .... could have clock stops .... Of course when ya rotate, the wires get slightly shorter so ya have different size rods to slide under the individually sleeved cable to keep taught and pretty.... eliminates wild turns and let's case modders show off their sleeving
Click to expand...

I think I am just going to try a 480mm XT45 in push/pull. According to your chart a while back it seems that an XT45 in push/pull would be better than a Monsta in just push or pull. Still trying to decide on the res and pump I will use. I will most likely just buy a Lamptron for fan control. I'd like to be able to control the rad fans via PWM, but it seems like the best rad fans are not PWM and it seems that the one PWM controller in the case will not be able to run a slew of fans.


----------



## Roxycon

@mixman, these ok?

Not a beauty of a cable, but it is lower profile


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dahl*
> 
> I am using the Phanteks fans, and 3 corsair sp120s which are 3-pins. I have the PWM connected to my chasis 1 port on the mobo. That port should still be controllable, but should I switch to CPU_OPT? CPU_FAN is already used by my CPU cooler.


A lot of mobos don't actually have PWM control over fans except through the CPU port(s) CPU_FAN & CPU_OPT, even though the others may also be 4pin ports. A lot of boards the chassis fan ports in particular are not PWM. You should be able to see in the manual or in the bios which fan ports are PWM controlled or not. That, or you can just try the other port(s) to see if there's a difference.

Also, make sure you only have one 3 pin fan plugged into the first fan port on the phanteks hub. You can put a splitter on the others, but not the first one.


----------



## bond32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> A lot of mobos don't actually have PWM control over fans except through the CPU port(s) CPU_FAN & CPU_OPT, even though the others may also be 4pin ports.


This. Is your CPU cooler a pwm fan? If so plug it into the CPU FAN and the phanteks board to CPU OPT.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roxycon*
> 
> @jack, i could send you a pm with both gtx 670 ftw sig2 and gtx 560ti twin frozr, but that would be in cm and mm
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Regarding the res bracket in the middle, assuming my gfx cards dont go beyond my mb (sabertooth z77) how much vertical space would i have left after installing a 480 monsta, a 480 xt45 and three sets of 25mm thick fans? Toying with the idea of a thin 360 rad in the middle after seeing linus(techtips) installing a rad right there in a 900d


Just add them to the thread .... I'll likely provide dimensions in both inches and mm .... thx for getting it started.

It's late, let's hope my math still works at this hour









Monsta (86mm) + XT45 (45mm) + 3 x 25 fans = 206 .... not Push / Pull on both ?

From top, total height from bottom of 25mm high top compartment is 275mm (bottom of 5.25 bays) + 141mm (bottom of upper 3.5" bays) + 122mm (top of relocated pump skid) + 38 (to floor) = 576

So 576 - 206 = 370 ... so no 360 rad .... which are typically about 400m long

BTW, redid the measurements to use bottom of consistently for space from the floor as if ya took something out. Will re upload the file in a few.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> A lot of mobos don't actually have PWM control over fans except through the CPU port(s) CPU_FAN & CPU_OPT, even though the others may also be 4pin ports. A lot of boards the chassis fan ports in particular are not PWM. You should be able to see in the manual or in the bios which fan ports are PWM controlled or not. That, or you can just try the other port(s) to see if there's a difference.
> 
> Also, make sure you only have one 3 pin fan plugged into the first fan port on the phanteks hub. You can put a splitter on the others, but not the first one.


Yes, was told by Asus that three Chassis fans have no PWM control even tho they 4-pin .... however was also told that the three OPT fans have no control to which I answered....well then why would anyone ever buy the optional temp probes ? No answer as yet.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> This. Is your CPU cooler a pwm fan? If so plug it into the CPU FAN and the phanteks board to CPU OPT.


That's what I did (Post # 919)

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mixman*
> 
> I think I am just going to try a 480mm XT45 in push/pull. According to your chart a while back it seems that an XT45 in push/pull would be better than a Monsta in just push or pull. Still trying to decide on the res and pump I will use. I will most likely just buy a Lamptron for fan control. I'd like to be able to control the rad fans via PWM, but it seems like the best rad fans are not PWM and it seems that the one PWM controller in the case will not be able to run a slew of fans.


Ditto on the XT45 for the same reasons.

For pump I went with the 35x2 ....I may wanna up the flow a bit and do parallel routing of the GPUs... was bored today having issues with loading Win 7-64 under UEFI....so in my idle time, toyed with some ideas



As for res, I'm stuck .... tough to do with dimension so close to the fit / no fit line. I'm currently leaning towards an EK150/250 .... wish I could fit one of the glass ones.... leery or Acrylic threads.

I finally decided to use the Phanteks fans via the hub..... got an e-mail back from Noiseblocker .... they will have 140mm eLoop fans coming out ... won't give any timeline though.....The Phantels XP PWM have higher SP at 1.53 .... review link posted few pages back.

Ordered 3 with LED's for push on top and 2 w/o LED's for bottom push .... gonna hold off on the pulls (till next credit card cycle)









The only PITA is ya can only use 1 fan on channel 1 ..... so with 4 fans on bottom rad (Channel 2 and 3) and 6 fans on top rad (Channels 4 thru 6) .... so what do ya put on channel 1 ? That's why need additional controllers if not augmenting in some way. Think I'll call Phanteks and say I wanna ship case back and get the correct one as per the manual with TWO fan controlelr s

Channel 1 - Bottom Rad Push Fan
Channel 2 - Bottom Rad Push Fan
Channel 3 - (2) Bottom Rad Pull Fans
Channel 4 - (2) Top Rad 1st Push / Pull Set
Channel 5 - (2) Top Rad 1st Push / Pull Set
Channel 6 - (2) Top Rad 1st Push / Pull Set
Total 10 fans

Of course could just ise MoBos three headers / sensors for the 2nd
OPT_1 - Case Fans (3)
OPT_2 - Pump Heat Sink Fan
OPT_3 - I may wanna add a "Spot Cool" or something

*Side Notes:*

-Enthoo still in stock @ newegg
-140mm fans not in stock.... needed 2 (had 1)


----------



## Roxycon

Saw thorough your numbers and it seems like you left the top compartment out, and I'm thinking of having one set of fans there which will bring it down to 181 and the total space left in the middle to 395, that would leave it 5 too short







anyways, ill order two more compressions and see if i can squeeze it in the by tilting it slightly. Have to test fit it first since my art background will most likely don't be ok with angles in a dead straight case

Repped for your help


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roxycon*
> 
> Saw thorough your numbers and it seems like you left the top compartment out, and I'm thinking of having one set of fans there which will bring it down to 181 and the total space left in the middle to 395, that would leave it 5 too short
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> anyways, ill order two more compressions and see if i can squeeze it in the by tilting it slightly. Have to test fit it first since my art background will most likely don't be ok with angles in a dead straight case
> 
> Repped for your help


The reason I thought you said 3 sets of fans was because assumed you were using 4 with one in top compartment

My measurements are strictly for case interior .... the 25 mm compartment is NOT included

NOTE:
Quote:


> From top, *total height from bottom of 25mm high top compartment* is 275mm (bottom of 5.25 bays) + 141mm (bottom of upper 3.5" bays) + 122mm (top of relocated pump skid) + 38 (to floor) = 576


___________________________________________ Case Top
Top Compartment - 25mm high
************************************** Bottom of 25mm top compartment

All measurements from "Bottom of 25mm top compartment" (line of asterisks)

It is 576mm from the bottom of the floor to the bottom ofthe place you puttting those fans

I am assuming

__________________________________
|Set of 25mm Fans in Top Compartment |
|_________________________________|
|XT4 Radiator ...................................|
|_________________________________|
|Set of 25mm Fans in below XT45.........|
|_________________________________|
|............................^.......................|
|............................^.......................|
|............................^.......................|
|.................you have a vertical .........|
|.................height here of.................|
|.................370 mm.........................|
|............................v.......................|
|............................v.......................|
|_________________________________|
|Set of 25mm Fans above Monsta.........|
|_________________________________|
|Monsta Radiator ..............................|
|_________________________________|
|Set of 25mm Fans.............................|
|_________________________________|
|Case Bottom w/ Filters......................|
|_________________________________|

This also assume you took the fan mounting tray out.

576 - 75 (3 x 25) - 86 - 45 = 370


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> I wouldn't mind buying a second PWM pcb board...


I would love to have a few of those in my 900D. I can't stand the ModMyToy's (performance PC's) custom made fan strip PCB's.


----------



## Roxycon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> My measurements are strictly for case interior .... the 25 mm compartment is NOT included


Well then our math is synced and we may see a 360 in the middle in a enthoo


----------



## Roxycon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> I would love to have a few of those in my 900D. I can't stand the ModMyToy's (performance PC's) custom made fan strip PCB's.


Isn't this pretty much the same?


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roxycon*
> 
> Isn't this pretty much the same?


That splits a PWM signal from the mobo to extra PWM (4 pin) fans.
The Phanteks hub enables PWM control from the mobo over 3 pin (non-PWM) fans.

It's pretty unique in that respect. I believe it's been tried before but with issues with some fans, so it remains to be seen if the Phanteks hub succeeds where others didn't.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> [...] The only PITA is ya can only use 1 fan on channel 1 ..... so with 4 fans on bottom rad (Channel 2 and 3) and 6 fans on top rad (Channels 4 thru 6) .... so what do ya put on channel 1 ? That's why need additional controllers if not augmenting in some way. Think I'll call Phanteks and say I wanna ship case back and get the correct one as per the manual with TWO fan controlelr s
> [...]


The manual and in all of Phanteks' marketing have only ever said that one hub comes with the case. Also, every review only had one hub with the case. The manual lists that there are two different mounting locations, but only one hub.

The Enthoo Primo prototype on display at events such as Computex 2013 did have two fan hubs installed.

I suspect Phanteks didn't include multiples of the hubs because so many mobos only have the one CPU_FAN port that actually allows for PWM control, and even mobos that do have a CPU_OPT it's just a mirror of CPU_FAN, not something you can control separately.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

This was an oops but might as well use the wasted space ......

How do I find the post delete button







.... kidding

Does anyone use "gaskets" on their rads .... kinda wondered why some manufacturer's offer and some don't.

*On the dimensions front* ..... gotta redo the drawing again .....

Big duuuuhhhhhh ..... thatz the problem with long awaited delays on arrival of new items.... ya forget the stuff ya learned weeks / months back.....and I was still holding out hopes for a front 240 rad so kinda pushed it outta my mind. Anyone besides me forget that ya can more the HD cage forward ? .... now have 16.25" from back of case to back side of HD cage.





What ya see in there is one of my son's pieces of "hydration equipment" or what we called in my day a "water bottle"

The water bottle is 9" (228) by just under 3" (72mm) .... the measured distance is 79mm x 300mm (283 to radiator mount bracket) which means a Photon 270 appears possible and a 60mm EK 150 / 250 appears easy.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> What fans are you leaving out ? Thought you were doing push / pull on top and bottom with the top rad push in top compartment ?


What fans are you leaving out ? Thought you were doing push / pull on top and bottom with the top rad push in top compartment ?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> The manual and in all of Phanteks' marketing have only ever said that one hub comes with the case. Also, every review only had one hub with the case. The manual lists that there are two different mounting locations, but only one hub.
> 
> The Enthoo Primo prototype on display at events such as Computex 2013 did have two fan hubs installed.
> 
> I suspect Phanteks didn't include multiples of the hubs because so many mobos only have the one CPU_FAN port that actually allows for PWM control, and even mobos that do have a CPU_OPT it's just a mirror of CPU_FAN, not something you can control separately.


I was speaking "tongue in cheek" with regard to the poorly written manual. I'm referring to the picture which says underneath:


Quote:


> PWM hub will enable PWM function to 3-pin fans. Fan 1 can only be connected to one fan and cannot be split. Fan 2 - Fan 6 can
> be split to multiple fans. Total of 11 fans can be connected to the PWM hub. All PWM functions will be controlled by fan 1.


And which points to another picture which shows 2 mounting locations

The other manual text which says
Quote:


> PWM Hub can be mounted on different locations.


is the text that should have pointed to the two mounting locations.

Just poor manual structure.... one of the "faux pas" that manual writers are generally taught to avoid.

I also recall one of the promo videos saying it comes with two


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> [...]I was speaking "tongue in cheek" with regard to the poorly written manual. I'm referring to the picture which says underneath:
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> PWM hub will enable PWM function to 3-pin fans. Fan 1 can only be connected to one fan and cannot be split. Fan 2 - Fan 6 can
> be split to multiple fans. Total of 11 fans can be connected to the PWM hub. All PWM functions will be controlled by fan 1.
> 
> 
> 
> And which points to another picture which shows 2 mounting locations
> 
> The other manual text which says
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> PWM Hub can be mounted on different locations.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Just poor manual structure.... one of the "faux pas" that manual writers are generally taught to avoid.
> 
> I also recall one of the promo videos saying it comes with two
Click to expand...

Have to disagree. The manual structure is excellent and intuitive imho. In each instance, the text addresses the image above it, exactly as it should, and it's the image of the fan hub that is pointing to the image of the mounting locations for it (which makes perfect sense), not the text that's underneath it.

I think it's one of the better put together manuals I've ever seen. Especially for being multi-language.

I have found a couple mistakes in it though. For example, on pg 27 under the '140 mm form factor radiators' chart, the triple asterisks info meant for a 140 or 280 bottom radiator says "*** 125mm width max" which is wrong. That's the max width of a 360 or 480 rad in the bottom that has to be able to fit behind that panel. There is no such thing as a 125mm or less wide 140mm series radiator. There's ~145 mm max width of space for a 140 or 280 rad in the bottom.

I pointed that mistake out to Phanteks almost 2 months ago, but looks like it never got corrected.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Have to disagree. The manual structure is excellent and intuitive imho. In each instance, the text addresses the image above it, exactly as it should, and it's the image of the fan hub that is pointing to the image of the mounting locations for it (which makes perfect sense), not the text that's underneath it.


I guess it's all what ya used to.... granted .... and I agree, it's better than most case manuals but if one of my employees wrote it, the next week he'd be practicing "do you want fries with that ?" As for the image, I'd agree without the red boxes and arrows..... the arrows trumps everything else drawing the focus away from the text below and to the text to the right. But like we both said.... it's better than most. And let's not forget .... I do remember the designer in the Ducth office did say it cane with two in one of his videos.....this was discussed on one of the forums (not sure if was OCN) pre release as to what it would come with and that fact was pointed out.

1. Another example is the image on page 11..... until I found the female ends buried under the wiring bundle inside the strap..... I thought we had to plug wires into the board. Image would be improved if it showed existing fans plugged into those wires for 1st two and missing for the next four.

2. Looking at it later, I didn't feel like disassembling to look but I didn't think the two SSD brackets would fit mounted vertically one of the other w/ hitting each other. Manual says "drop down" to lock .... given installed positions, shuda been left / right.

3. The pump mounting images on right side of 29 gave me a headache







..... kept looking for holes to mount vertically

Again, I'm pickier than most because it's an area win which I practice..... I'm used to cruddy manuals on $100-$150 cases.... but given what we saw pre-release "expected quality" wise, I was hoping just a bit better.


----------



## mixman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *mixman*
> 
> I think I am just going to try a 480mm XT45 in push/pull. According to your chart a while back it seems that an XT45 in push/pull would be better than a Monsta in just push or pull. Still trying to decide on the res and pump I will use. I will most likely just buy a Lamptron for fan control. I'd like to be able to control the rad fans via PWM, but it seems like the best rad fans are not PWM and it seems that the one PWM controller in the case will not be able to run a slew of fans.
> 
> 
> 
> Ditto on the XT45 for the same reasons.
> 
> For pump I went with the 35x2 ....I may wanna up the flow a bit and do parallel routing of the GPUs... was bored today having issues with loading Win 7-64 under UEFI....so in my idle time, toyed with some ideas
> 
> 
> 
> As for res, I'm stuck .... tough to do with dimension so close to the fit / no fit line. I'm currently leaning towards an EK150/250 .... wish I could fit one of the glass ones.... leery or Acrylic threads.
> 
> I finally decided to use the Phanteks fans via the hub..... got an e-mail back from Noiseblocker .... they will have 140mm eLoop fans coming out ... won't give any timeline though.....The Phantels XP PWM have higher SP at 1.53 .... review link posted few pages back.
> 
> Ordered 3 with LED's for push on top and 2 w/o LED's for bottom push .... gonna hold off on the pulls (till next credit card cycle)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The only PITA is ya can only use 1 fan on channel 1 ..... so with 4 fans on bottom rad (Channel 2 and 3) and 6 fans on top rad (Channels 4 thru 6) .... so what do ya put on channel 1 ? That's why need additional controllers if not augmenting in some way. Think I'll call Phanteks and say I wanna ship case back and get the correct one as per the manual with TWO fan controlelr s
> 
> Channel 1 - Bottom Rad Push Fan
> Channel 2 - Bottom Rad Push Fan
> Channel 3 - (2) Bottom Rad Pull Fans
> Channel 4 - (2) Top Rad 1st Push / Pull Set
> Channel 5 - (2) Top Rad 1st Push / Pull Set
> Channel 6 - (2) Top Rad 1st Push / Pull Set
> Total 10 fans
> 
> Of course could just ise MoBos three headers / sensors for the 2nd
> OPT_1 - Case Fans (3)
> OPT_2 - Pump Heat Sink Fan
> OPT_3 - I may wanna add a "Spot Cool" or something
> 
> *Side Notes:*
> 
> -Enthoo still in stock @ newegg
> -140mm fans not in stock.... needed 2 (had 1)
Click to expand...

Ugghhh...... Keep going back and forth on this but I think it is now between a 480mm XT45 up top push/pull (won't push it with anything larger up top) or just a 480mm Monsta in push/pull down bottom and just have 3 140mm fans blowing the hot air out the case Thatt way I know I have the max cooling power from one rad. I am going to try to order tomorrow so I can move my 3930K over to the Phanteks and start building my 4770K build with M6F into my Lian Li V2120.


----------



## ADragg

In regards to fitting a res on the center bracket, are you guys keeping in mind that when you take the plastic "face plate" on the bracket (the decorative panel that's supposed to be left on if you're just using the bracket as a cable hider), there's more room gained for graphics cards? The bracket gets thinner (less wide) in the middle where the GPU would normally hit. It gains you about an extra inch of clearance for graphics cards when you take the plastic facade off. I have the Asus GTX 780 which is longer than most 780's, I think and I think I only needed about an extra 1/4 inch of clearance to fit the bracket on with the 780 installed. That's with the stock cooler on, which hangs a ways off the back of the card.

I'm thinking if the EK water block for the Asus DCUII doesn't add any extra length to the card, then that bracket MIGHT actually work. Probably not, but it certainly could make a lot of other peoples' equipment work if they didn't know that removing the plastic panel from the bracket actually gains you a good bit of extra GPU room. Reference style 780's are certainly possible, I think. Someone without the beast sized Asus 780 could probably confirm pretty quickly.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ADragg*
> 
> In regards to fitting a res on the center bracket, are you guys keeping in mind that when you take the plastic "face plate" on the bracket (the decorative panel that's supposed to be left on if you're just using the bracket as a cable hider), there's more room gained for graphics cards? The bracket gets thinner (less wide) in the middle where the GPU would normally hit. It gains you about an extra inch of clearance for graphics cards when you take the plastic facade off. I have the Asus GTX 780 which is longer than most 780's, I think and I think I only needed about an extra 1/4 inch of clearance to fit the bracket on with the 780 installed. That's with the stock cooler on, which hangs a ways off the back of the card.
> 
> I'm thinking if the EK water block for the Asus DCUII doesn't add any extra length to the card, then that bracket MIGHT actually work. Probably not, but it certainly could make a lot of other peoples' equipment work if they didn't know that removing the plastic panel from the bracket actually gains you a good bit of extra GPU room. Reference style 780's are certainly possible, I think. Someone without the beast sized Asus 780 could probably confirm pretty quickly.


Reference 780 and Titan fit with the decorative cover removed and the bracket in place.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ADragg*
> 
> In regards to fitting a res on the center bracket, are you guys keeping in mind that when you take the plastic "face plate" on the bracket (the decorative panel that's supposed to be left on if you're just using the bracket as a cable hider), there's more room gained for graphics cards? The bracket gets thinner (less wide) in the middle where the GPU would normally hit. It gains you about an extra inch of clearance for graphics cards when you take the plastic facade off. I have the Asus GTX 780 which is longer than most 780's, I think and I think I only needed about an extra 1/4 inch of clearance to fit the bracket on with the 780 installed. That's with the stock cooler on, which hangs a ways off the back of the card.
> 
> I'm thinking if the EK water block for the Asus DCUII doesn't add any extra length to the card, then that bracket MIGHT actually work. Probably not, but it certainly could make a lot of other peoples' equipment work if they didn't know that removing the plastic panel from the bracket actually gains you a good bit of extra GPU room. Reference style 780's are certainly possible, I think. Someone without the beast sized Asus 780 could probably confirm pretty quickly.


Reference 780 and Titan fit with the decorative cover removed and the bracket in place.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> [...]If ya leave the reservoir bracket w/ cover plate in, no way I could make bend with 24 pin.... MoBo manufacturers have rotated all the SATA plugs, why leave the Big USB and 24 pin sticking straight outta the board ? Can see this on budget boards where case fit is an issue but not on an enthusiast board. [...]


This is a worry of mine. There is only a tad more than 2" of space there which is not much room at all.

Has anyone had any trouble with fitting their 24-pin cable under the res bracket?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> [...] Im gonna repeat another one from a few pages back.... the only "ugly" wiring I have is SATA power..... had to use 4 PSU cables (2 HDS. SSD1, SSD2, Optical). Really shuda been a STA power blackplane here. Something like the Antec DF-85 .... Slide it in and its plugged in. [...]


Ugh, I would have hated to see this case have a bunch of hot-swappable HDD bays. I cannot stand those things. I have two on my Cosmo 2 that are the only HDD bays that are going unused, and will stay that way except in the instance I want to grab data off of / put data onto a HDD from somewhere else, and even then that won't really be possible as I didn't have any SATA ports to spare on my mobo for either of them. I'm using all 10 ports already. I'd have to add a SATA hub PCI card for more.

Maybe one HDD bay with a backplane would have been ok/tolerable, but I don't like that they are basically wanting me take up SATA ports on my mobo for it when it's the last SATA thing I would ever use. I MUCH MUCH prefer regular HDD bays. I make up my own SATA power cables so the connectors are perfectly spaced all neat and tidy. I wish it was as easy to do custom-length SATA data cables but at least they do come in a variety of lengths.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Guys, sorry if someone already place that info here but I was traveling and have like hundreds of new posts to go through and so far I haven't found any reference to it. Those of us who pre-order had a promise of a gift along the case. What was it? Anyone got that gift? My case probably will take more 3 or 4 weeks to get here since is coming from Holland and I am in Brazil...


----------



## Roxycon

frozen still got the promo.. Link


----------



## Gabrielzm

Yep, but FZCPU does not say what is the gift...Additional fans?


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mixman*
> 
> Ugghhh...... Keep going back and forth on this but I think it is now between a 480mm XT45 up top push/pull (won't push it with anything larger up top) or just a 480mm Monsta in push/pull down bottom and just have 3 140mm fans blowing the hot air out the case Thatt way I know I have the max cooling power from one rad. I am going to try to order tomorrow so I can move my 3930K over to the Phanteks and start building my 4770K build with M6F into my Lian Li V2120.


Have you considered a 420 XT45 on top ? Gives lightly more cooling.

Last night I gave up on the front rad, moved the HD cage over to gain res room. More comfy now with 5 case fans (2 blowing in in front, 1 on the rear and two mounted on case sid epanel on right blowing out....... better balance.....

10 rad fans blowing in (5 sets in P/P)
2 case fans blowing in (front)
3 case fans blowing out (side and rear)
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ADragg*
> 
> In regards to fitting a res on the center bracket, are you guys keeping in mind that when you take the plastic "face plate" on the bracket (the decorative panel that's supposed to be left on if you're just using the bracket as a cable hider), there's more room gained for graphics cards? The bracket gets thinner (less wide) in the middle where the GPU would normally hit. It gains you about an extra inch of clearance for graphics cards when you take the plastic facade off. I have the Asus GTX 780 which is longer than most 780's, I think and I think I only needed about an extra 1/4 inch of clearance to fit the bracket on with the 780 installed. That's with the stock cooler on, which hangs a ways off the back of the card.
> 
> I'm thinking if the EK water block for the Asus DCUII doesn't add any extra length to the card, then that bracket MIGHT actually work. Probably not, but it certainly could make a lot of other peoples' equipment work if they didn't know that removing the plastic panel from the bracket actually gains you a good bit of extra GPU room. Reference style 780's are certainly possible, I think. Someone without the beast sized Asus 780 could probably confirm pretty quickly.


The bracket thing is true in your case with a single 780 ..... but it fits only under certain conditions:

1. Single card
2. Two cards in SLI w/ *NO SPACE* between.

If ya have an enthusiast 2 or 3 PCIE-3 slot MoBo with the one slot extra slot spacing between the two cards for air circulation, it does hit the bracket on the edge of the slanted part...... at least that's what I have seen in a few reviews and the best measurement I can do w/o a card in place. See the drawing in post #906

The EK Block on the 780 actually shortens the card. Hopefully when ya get it you will chime in here:
http://www.overclock.net/t/1437498/data-resource-for-wcers-gfx-card-dimensions

You can see what fits for Asus 760, 770 and 780 in post #906 in this thread.... I will update PDF with some added dimensions in a little while and re-upload.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Guys, sorry if someone already place that info here but I was traveling and have like hundreds of new posts to go through and so far I haven't found any reference to it. Those of us who pre-order had a promise of a gift along the case. What was it? Anyone got that gift? My case probably will take more 3 or 4 weeks to get here since is coming from Holland and I am in Brazil...


It's on the same page ..... scroll down and look at bottom where ya add accessories:
Quote:


> Free Gift Bundle!!
> (put shirt size in special comments on shipping page)
> FCPU Stress Ball
> FCPU Lanyard
> FCPU Gummi Bears
> FCPU Keychain
> FCPU T-Shirt


----------



## Roxycon

free gift boundle:


----------



## Gabrielzm

[


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



quote name="Roxycon" url="/t/1418637/phanteks-enthoo-primo-owners-club/950#post_21075892"]free gift boundle:
[/quote


]

Thanks mate. I haven't notice that. But all of those gifts seem to be FZCPU things not Phanteks gift...Those who order directly from Phanteks got anything extra?

Cheers


----------



## mixman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *mixman*
> 
> Ugghhh...... Keep going back and forth on this but I think it is now between a 480mm XT45 up top push/pull (won't push it with anything larger up top) or just a 480mm Monsta in push/pull down bottom and just have 3 140mm fans blowing the hot air out the case Thatt way I know I have the max cooling power from one rad. I am going to try to order tomorrow so I can move my 3930K over to the Phanteks and start building my 4770K build with M6F into my Lian Li V2120.
> 
> 
> 
> Have you considered a 420 XT45 on top ? Gives lightly more cooling.
> 
> Last night I gave up on the front rad, moved the HD cage over to gain res room. More comfy now with 5 case fans (2 blowing in in front, 1 on the rear and two mounted on case sid epanel on right blowing out....... better balance.....
> 
> 10 rad fans blowing in (5 sets in P/P)
> 2 case fans blowing in (front)
> 3 case fans blowing out (side and rear)
Click to expand...

Unfortunately, two problems with a 420 rad. 1) I just bought 8 120mm Yate Loons and 2) The 420mm rad is not interchangeable with the slot at the bottom, in case I want to mount it down there. My gut is telling me to just get the Monsta, mount it at the bottom and get it over with! I just want to be able to have my fans cruise at 900-1000rpm and get an OC of 4.7 or 4.8 on my 3930K.


----------



## bond32

Just to chime in on the fan pwm board, I connected 6 ap-15's to it with the included 5 140mm phanteks fans, it works great. Have a 140mm to the fan 1 spot and it still ramps up the ap-15's when needed. Very happy about that


----------



## Phanteks Rep

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Have to disagree. The manual structure is excellent and intuitive imho. In each instance, the text addresses the image above it, exactly as it should, and it's the image of the fan hub that is pointing to the image of the mounting locations for it (which makes perfect sense), not the text that's underneath it.
> 
> I think it's one of the better put together manuals I've ever seen. Especially for being multi-language.
> 
> I have found a couple mistakes in it though. For example, on pg 27 under the '140 mm form factor radiators' chart, the triple asterisks info meant for a 140 or 280 bottom radiator says "*** 125mm width max" which is wrong. That's the max width of a 360 or 480 rad in the bottom that has to be able to fit behind that panel. There is no such thing as a 125mm or less wide 140mm series radiator. There's ~145 mm max width of space for a 140 or 280 rad in the bottom.
> 
> I pointed that mistake out to Phanteks almost 2 months ago, but looks like it never got corrected.


Thank you for the corrections. We appreciate everyone's praises and help along the way. We are getting it fixed.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phanteks Rep*
> 
> Thank you for the corrections. We appreciate everyone's praises and help along the way. We are getting it fixed.


Will be following up w/ additional comments on our experiences ..... i.e. I had a molex connector installed backwards, some pins were mangled, and some scratches ..... but also some comments / suggestions about Enthoo II









The thing most of us are waiting for though is when we can buy case accessories...... I need:

1. Additional Pump Skid ... Im using 35x2 but others also use 2 pumps and they won't fit..... a second skid appears it will mount fine on bottom of HD cage support thingie.

2. Fan control PCBs .... I'd like one for Rads and one for case fans .... which leaves me short one









And for those of you awaiting price changes before getting GFX Cards / WBs .....

http://www.tomshardware.com/news/nvidia-gtx-780-price-drop,24886.html

*Nvidia GTX 780 Ti = $699

Nvidia GTX 780 = drops $150 from $649 to $499

Nvidia GTX 770 = drops $70 from $399 to 329

Also ..... free copy of Batman: Arkham Origins; Splinter Cell: Blacklist; Assassin's Creed IV: Black Flag, as well as a $100 Shield discount coupon*
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Thanks mate. I haven't notice that. But all of those gifts seem to be FZCPU things not Phanteks gift...Those who order directly from Phanteks got anything extra?
> 
> Cheers


My pleasure ... and yes .... all FCPU stuff.... maybe ya could swap some stiff for some BAWLS or Cocaine (energy drinks)









I only noticed it cause I was looking for case accessories


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Guys, sorry if someone already place that info here but I was traveling and have like hundreds of new posts to go through and so far I haven't found any reference to it. Those of us who pre-order had a promise of a gift along the case. What was it? Anyone got that gift? My case probably will take more 3 or 4 weeks to get here since is coming from Holland and I am in Brazil...


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> [
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> quote name="Roxycon" url="/t/1418637/phanteks-enthoo-primo-owners-club/950#post_21075892"]free gift boundle:
> [/quote
> 
> 
> ]
> 
> Thanks mate. I haven't notice that. But all of those gifts seem to be FZCPU things not Phanteks gift...Those who order directly from Phanteks got anything extra?
> 
> Cheers


There never was a 'promise' of anything extra along with the case from Phanteks for those of us who preordered. The closest thing to that was this post from Brian, the moderator on the Phanteks forums, saying that he was trying to suggest to his boss that they do something like that, which got some of our hopes up that they might, but there never was anything else about it. and now that the cases are here it's apparent that his boss didn't go for it.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> Just to chime in on the fan pwm board, I connected 6 ap-15's to it with the included 5 140mm phanteks fans, it works great. Have a 140mm to the fan 1 spot and it still ramps up the ap-15's when needed. Very happy about that


I have the Channel1 fan plugged into CPU_OPT and .... Fan Speed set at default from 60% at 20C to 100% at 70C.

Highest I have seen the Phanteks fans at is 1126 rpm running OCCT ... that's at the point where OCCT shuts down (85C) . Im still on stock cooler and will be until WC parts arrive.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> This is a worry of mine. There is only a tad more than 2" of space there which is not much room at all.
> 
> Has anyone had any trouble with fitting their 24-pin cable under the res bracket?
> Ugh, I would have hated to see this case have a bunch of hot-swappable HDD bays. I cannot stand those things. I have two on my Cosmo 2 that are the only HDD bays that are going unused, and will stay that way except in the instance I want to grab data off of / put data onto a HDD from somewhere else, and even then that won't really be possible as I didn't have any SATA ports to spare on my mobo for either of them. I'm using all 10 ports already. I'd have to add a SATA hub PCI card for more.
> 
> Maybe one HDD bay with a backplane would have been ok/tolerable, but I don't like that they are basically wanting me take up SATA ports on my mobo for it when it's the last SATA thing I would ever use. I MUCH MUCH prefer regular HDD bays. I make up my own SATA power cables so the connectors are perfectly spaced all neat and tidy. I wish it was as easy to do custom-length SATA data cables but at least they do come in a variety of lengths.


I think we talking about two different things. Maybe I can explain better. This would reduce connections not increase them. I, not talking about the hot swap bay on the top of the DF-85....I'm talking about the plain old docking bays on the bottom that ya use once and don't touch again till ya replace something. You slide ya drive into the bay and no cables required. All the "neat and tidy" wiring is done by the case manufacturer.

1. Instead of having awkward PSU cables with inconveniently spaced SATA power connectors, or even nice fabricated ones with 3 connectors at one end and 20 pcs of heat shrink, you don't power the drives, you power the cage. Slide the HD in it docks with the connector. The three docks have their power wired invisibly to one single connector on the cage. Your custom SATA power cable is now a simple one with one connector on each end and no HS required at all.... can't use heatshrinkless method on pass thru connectors.

2. Instead of having three SATA data connectors 1.75" apart and three data cables all with different locations, you simply mirror on the side of the cage, the exact same setup ya have on ya MoBo. Instead of coming off the MoBo, bending left, bending right, twisting from vertical to Horizontal and then another bend to plug in, we just .... aw heck, easier to draw a pic











Not sure where the taking up SATA ports on ya MoBo part came from ..... ya have a SATA device, ya plug in a cable, ya don't then ya don't.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> I think we talking about two different things. Maybe I can explain better. This would reduce connections not increase them. I, not talking about the hot swap bay on the top of the DF-85....I'm talking about the plain old docking bays on the bottom that ya use once and don't touch again till ya replace something. You slide ya drive into the bay and no cables required. All the "neat and tidy" wiring is done by the case manufacturer.
> 
> 1. Instead of having awkward PSU cables with inconveniently spaced SATA power connectors, or even nice fabricated ones with 3 connectors at one end and 20 pcs of heat shrink, you don't power the drives, you power the cage. Slide the HD in it docks with the connector. The three docks have their power wired invisibly to one single connector on the cage. Your custom SATA power cable is now a simple one with one connector on each end and no HS required at all.... can't use heatshrinkless method on pass thru connectors.
> 
> 2. Instead of having three SATA data connectors 1.75" apart and three data cables all with different locations, you simply mirror on the side of the cage, the exact same setup ya have on ya MoBo. Instead of coming off the MoBo, bending left, bending right, twisting from vertical to Horizontal and then another bend to plug in, we just .... aw heck, easier to draw a pic
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not sure where the taking up SATA ports on ya MoBo part came from ..... ya have a SATA device, ya plug in a cable, ya don't then ya don't.


We're talking about the exact same thing. For all the reasons you like a docking bay, I hate them. I MUCH prefer to plug my wires into each of my drives.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

I am assuming you're seeing something or experienced something that I haven't come across and am trying to understand.

I see less cables, less twisting and bending (my SSD data cables have some nasty twists in the Enthoo) , less routing and easier replacements / upgrades..... What do you see as some of the downsides ? .... Wondering if I am about to have one of those "I never thought of that" moments.









The DF-85 was nice in that respect..... IIRC it gave ya 2 docks and rest left were vacant ..... If ya don't wanna use, one screw removal and they're gone. Could very easily be made an option to satisfy both tastes... you could buy them separately for the DF-85.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Oh yeah I've had nothing but terrible experiences with hot swap / docking bays. I helped a friend do his build in a Level 10 that we pretty extensively modded, and it turned out the docking bays were so unreliable that sometimes it would recognize a drive and others it wouldn't. Pull the drive out and put it back in and windows would see it again, then after a while it wouldn't or it would happen to a different drive. Since I'd helped talk him into buying that case in the first place and then helped him void the warranty on it, he pestered me about every problem he had with it to where I almost felt like I was in a bad marriage. And it's worth noting that Thermaltake and Phanteks are subsidiaries of the same company. --> oops, I was confusing Thermaltake with NZXT. Looks like Thermaltake isn't a subsidiary of Axpertec. my bad.

I've had similar experiences with hot swap bays from supermicro, icy dock, and rosewill. Some drives won't even fit properly, especially my 4TB WD drives which are pretty much all I buy these days.

It's just been one thing after another with several models from different manufacturers to the point that I have given up on that type of HDD bay altogether. Just look at reviews on them at sites like Newegg / Amazon and you will see I am not alone at all. They ALL get terrible reviews. I will not use them. I am soooooo glad the Enthoo Primo doesn't have them.


----------



## jassilamba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> I am assuming you're seeing something or experienced something that I haven't come across and am trying to understand.
> 
> I see less cables, less twisting and bending (my SSD data cables have some nasty twists in the Enthoo) , less routing and easier replacements / upgrades..... What do you see as some of the downsides ? .... Wondering if I am about to have one of those "I never thought of that" moments.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The DF-85 was nice in that respect..... IIRC it gave ya 2 docks and rest left were vacant ..... If ya don't wanna use, one screw removal and they're gone. Could very easily be made an option to satisfy both tastes... you could buy them separately for the DF-85.


How many SSDs are you running, if its just 1, do what I did. I rotated my SSD bracket (just remove, and slide in with different orientation). That way my SATA power connectors are in a line and so are the SATA data cables.

But here is a uber crappy paint illustration of what I mean


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Oh yeah I've had nothing but terrible experiences with hot swap / docking bays. I helped a friend do his build in a Level 10 that we pretty extensively modded, and it turned out the docking bays were so unreliable that sometimes it would recognize a drive and others it wouldn't. Pull the drive out and put it back in and windows would see it again, then after a while it wouldn't or it would happen to a different drive. Since I'd helped talk him into buying that case in the first place and then helped him void the warranty on it, he pestered me about every problem he had with it to where I almost felt like I was in a bad marriage. And it's worth noting that Thermaltake and Phanteks are subsidiaries of the same company. --> oops, I was confusing Thermaltake with NZXT. Looks like Thermaltake isn't a subsidiary of Axpertec. my bad.
> 
> I've had similar experiences with hot swap bays from supermicro, icy dock, and rosewill. Some drives won't even fit properly, especially my 4TB WD drives which are pretty much all I buy these days.
> 
> It's just been one thing after another with several models from different manufacturers to the point that I have given up on that type of HDD bay altogether. Just look at reviews on them at sites like Newegg / Amazon and you will see I am not alone at all. They ALL get terrible reviews. I will not use them. I am soooooo glad the Enthoo Primo doesn't have them.


NZXT is not a subsidiary of Axpertec. Axpertec is their European marketing and distribution rep, that is all.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> NZXT is not a subsidiary of Axpertec. Axpertec is their European marketing and distribution rep, that is all.


You may be correct. I assumed they are the parent company because the Axpertec website lists NZXT, Noctua, Xion, Phanteks, etc as their 'brands' and lists them under their 'products' links, and because the payment for my pre-ordered Enthoo Primo from the Phanteks.usa site was cashed by Axpertec.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> You may be correct. I assumed they are the parent company because the Axpertec website lists NZXT, Noctua, Xion, Phanteks, etc as their 'brands' and lists them under their 'products' links, and because the payment for my pre-ordered Enthoo Primo from the Phanteks.usa site was cashed by Axpertec.


mmm... Not so sure Unicr0nhunter. It does not seems like Axpertec own in any way those brands cited. They most likely just represent them. Nocuta is a Austrian company with a partner in Taiwan. In fact the Axpertec text in the about us section point in this direction that they represent those brands:

http://www.axpertec.com/About.html

I might me wrong but it seems they mention those brands as suppliers...

Cheers


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Oh yeah I've had nothing but terrible experiences with hot swap / docking bays. I helped a friend do his build in a Level 10 that we pretty extensively modded, and it turned out the docking bays were so unreliable that sometimes it would recognize a drive and others it wouldn't. Pull the drive out and put it back in and windows would see it again, then after a while it wouldn't or it would happen to a different drive. Since I'd helped talk him into buying that case in the first place and then helped him void the warranty on it, he pestered me about every problem he had with it to where I almost felt like I was in a bad marriage. And it's worth noting that Thermaltake and Phanteks are subsidiaries of the same company. --> oops, I was confusing Thermaltake with NZXT. Looks like Thermaltake isn't a subsidiary of Axpertec. my bad.
> 
> I've had similar experiences with hot swap bays from supermicro, icy dock, and rosewill. Some drives won't even fit properly, especially my 4TB WD drives which are pretty much all I buy these days.
> 
> It's just been one thing after another with several models from different manufacturers to the point that I have given up on that type of HDD bay altogether. Just look at reviews on them at sites like Newegg / Amazon and you will see I am not alone at all. They ALL get terrible reviews. I will not use them. I am soooooo glad the Enthoo Primo doesn't have them.


Interesting .... In Son No. 2's DF-85, I put them in, moved them once for better cooling and never touched them in two years. I looked at newegg and 92% gave the case 4 eggs or better. One guy asked for more of what he called the "modular enclosures". Can't read past the 1st comment page tho as case is discontinued. So searched on SATA backplane and SATA Hot Swap issues and came up pretty dry ..... did find several on the 800D. Would seem to be case of some guys did it right and some guys didn't.

Also we need to distinguish between backplanes which are simply pre-wired cable extensions and those that have some type of controller which could introduce compatibility issues later on.

http://forum.corsair.com/FORUMS/showthread.php?t=104455
http://www.overclock.net/t/1302666/800d-sata3-backplane-issues
http://forum.corsair.com/v3/showthread.php?t=87184
Which addresses a poor redesign ..... old design worked, new one didn't .... one guy here fixed it by using old screws

One on the HAF-X on THG .... wiring issue ..... but that's kinda unique .... like the molex installed backwards on my Enthoo










But this is basically merely an extension of what Phanteks did with the Fan PCB ..... basically pre-wired all the case fans to a central location (with the bonus of adding fan control).

For the SSD mounts it would be real handy too. Have it slide in, with data cable connector pointing towards MoBo and back of case and power cable pointing toward right side of case. Right now both those cable turns are precariously squeezed between the MoBo Panel and the connectors in order to get to back area of case. In either case, I'd move the mounts toward front of case to provide some breathing room.

I think I like your original suggestion and satisfy both camps..... provide one cage set up with it and one without. And do like Antec did...... one screw ya can take it out of ya don't like and if ya want another, ya can buy as an option

http://store.antec.com/P/hot-swap-module-for-df-85/0-761345-30757-4.aspx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jassilamba*
> 
> How many SSDs are you running, if its just 1, do what I did. I rotated my SSD bracket (just remove, and slide in with different orientation). That way my SATA power connectors are in a line and so are the SATA data cables.
> 
> But here is a uber crappy paint illustration of what I mean


I been thinking about that .... I do have two 256 GB SSDs in RAID 0 ..... choices considered:

1. One in each mounted horizontally to provide some air flow with wording vertical and lousy cable routing

2. Two SSDs in one mount vertical and get better cable routing but lose air flow and wording sideways ..... I know ya can't see it but engineers are generally anal qbout construction of any kind and we I can see it in our minds







.

This will keep me up at night !

And as for ya drawing skills.... if ya give up the zoo, please apply for one of our CAD Operator positions, it's better than some of my guys.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> 2. Two SSDs in one mount vertical and get better cable routing but lose air flow and wording sideways ..... I know ya can't see it but engineers are generally anal qbout construction of any kind and we I can see it in our minds
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> This will keep me up at night !
> .


I suppose you line up all the screw head slots the same... and X's too.

\ \ \
_ _ _

l l l

/ / /

X X X

+ + +


----------



## JackNaylorPE

You mean there's people who don't ?







I'm going back to look at Jesse's build now.


----------



## doyll

Oh!







I never checked his build.







Just _ass_umed he did it right. I won't be able to sleep until you report back what Jesse did!


----------



## jassilamba

The only thing I get really anal about making sure is aligned is how the wheels on my cars look when parked. They all are at the same angel.

But getting back to the solution:

Air flow for SSDs should not be a concern, but if you are, then you can use the spot behind the motherboard.

Talking about my build, hopefully it will be drained and taken apart in the next week. Going to redo the tube that intakes the water to the CPU block. Its gonna be fun working on 4 builds at the same time


----------



## mixman

OK, I have 14 fans I am going to use. 6 case fans and 8 rad fans. I know the limit is supposed to be 11 fans, but I wonder can I get away with the 14? If I have to limit the fans I would just prefer to put the rad fans on the PWM hub and put the case fans on a fan controller. Is anyone else using this many fans and if so, how are you controlling them?


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Where'd ya fit the 6th case fan ? I have:

2 on right side
2 on front
1 in rear

Like you, I been going back and forth, back and forth.

But I'm thinking of having the Six Eyes send one signal to the PCB to control the 10 rad fans.

1 - Monitor Rad 1 Inlet Temp
2 - Monitor Rad 2 Outlet temp
3 - Monitor Rad 1 Inlet Temp
4 - Monitor Rad 2 Outlet temp ..... Control all 10 Rad fans thru PCB
5 - Monitor Case Temp ..... Control case fans (need another PCB)
6 - Monitor Ambient Air

I also have the 3 OPT fan headers on the MoBo (M6F) that I can run off temp sensors. So if Phanteks doesn't come up with PCBs soon I have an option

OPT_1 = 2 Front Fans
OPT_2 = 2 Side Fans
OPT_3 = 1 Rear Fan

On a side note, wanted to ask what kinda rpms ya getting outta ya Phanteks fans.... running AIDA 64 on a stock speed, stock cooler 4770k I was averaging low - mid 80s w/ instantaneous peaks at 90 and highest rpm I saw was 1126 ...... have 5 more coming and concerned that they won't cut the proverbial mustard.

BTW, still no answer from Phanteks on availability of accessories

http://phanteks.com/forum/showthread.php?118-Enthoo-Primo-Additional-Parts-Availability


----------



## mixman

I have the 2 140mm fans in front, 1 in the back and 3 up top. I ordered the Monsta and I will put that at the bottom of the case along with the 8 fans for that. I haven't fired up the case yet so I don't know how loud the Phanteks fans are yet, but I am sure I will probably want to control them in some fashion. I can't wait for Phanteks to offer the accessories so I guess I have to take the control of the fans into my own hands.

Is there a chance I can run the 14 fans off the one PWM board?


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mixman*
> 
> I have the 2 140mm fans in front, 1 in the back and 3 up top. I ordered the Monsta and I will put that at the bottom of the case along with the 8 fans for that. I haven't fired up the case yet so I don't know how loud the Phanteks fans are yet, but I am sure I will probably want to control them in some fashion. I can't wait for Phanteks to offer the accessories so I guess I have to take the control of the fans into my own hands.
> 
> Is there a chance I can run the 14 fans off the one PWM board?


I'm sitting in the dining room (DR table is my "workbench" .... plan is if I take long enuff to finish my build, the in-laws can't come over for dinner ). The fans are less than 12" from my head and I can't hear a thing..... I hear the heat coming outta the vents, I hear the fridge in the kitchen, I hear bubbles in the fish tank in the next room .... but no fan noise at 1179 rpm on the stock intel cooler and 742 on the Phanteks. I have to get ear within 6" to hear them. Switching to Turbo Mode ... the speed ups to 780 I was able to get it to 1259 rpm and I could hear fan noise .... but my eyes were focused on the 89C CPU temp under IDA 64 and I didnt wanna get away from the scree









Again I could hear the noise but it was in no way annoying. I should have a Rad report later today ... 45mm and 60mms arriving whenever UPS man gets here.

maybe I'll stack em ....

_________________________
Fans
_________________________
45mm Rad
__________________________
Fans
__________________________
60mm Rad
__________________________
Fans
__________________________

But by tomorrow Jesse would have stacked two Monstas together









*UPDATE:*

Here's some pics of the AlphaCoool UT60-280 in the top of the Enthoo. Rad makes it but the pull fans look like they won't....the Xt45 fits better




EDIT:

Have the XT45-420 in and running a credit card along it I'd say I clear the M6F HS by about 6 mm .... add 2 mm for the fans being less wide than the rad and Id have 8mm clearance if I used a UT60 ..... however, getting the XT45 in was a tilt and twist exercise..... it does not fit in thru the front 5,25 bays because of the lip that they out on the sides to support whatever ya put in there. Ya would have to bend or trim them with a UT60-420 to get it in.


----------



## mixman

Wow.....That will be a stack of rads at the bottom of course? I guess you got that UT60 a while back because the last timeI checked the 480mm UT60 was not due until 12/8 at Aquatuning. Glad I didn't wait for it. Good to know the stock fans aren't too loud. I still got an Akasa fan controller just in case, cause I hate a loud setup and with 14 fans......even if they were all Gentle Typhoon AP15's, there would still be a racket.


----------



## chrisnyc75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> I'm sitting in the dining room (DR table is my "workbench" .... plan is if I take long enuff to finish my build, the in-laws can't come over for dinner ). The fans are less than 12" from my head and I can't hear a thing..... I hear the heat coming outta the vents, I hear the fridge in the kitchen, I hear bubbles in the fish tank in the next room .... but no fan noise at 1179 rpm on the stock intel cooler and 742 on the Phanteks. I have to get ear within 6" to hear them. Switching to Turbo Mode ... the speed ups to 780 I was able to get it to 1259 rpm and I could hear fan noise .... but my eyes were focused on the 89C CPU temp under IDA 64 and I didnt wanna get away from the scree
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Again I could hear the noise but it was in no way annoying. I should have a Rad report later today ... 45mm and 60mms arriving whenever UPS man gets here.
> 
> maybe I'll stack em ....
> 
> _________________________
> Fans
> _________________________
> 45mm Rad
> __________________________
> Fans
> __________________________
> 60mm Rad
> __________________________
> Fans
> __________________________
> 
> But by tomorrow Jesse would have stacked two Monstas together
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *UPDATE:*
> 
> Here's some pics of the AlphaCoool UT60 in the top of the Enthoo. Rad makes it but the pull fans won't.


Do you have the top fans on the inside or outside of the chassis? If you put them on top of the chassis, under the mesh top of course, then the rad + bottom fan (=85mm) should fit even with high profile ram or vrm cooler.

Or are you using 140mm rad/fans, and don't have the 58mm offset? I can't quite tell from the picture.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mixman*
> 
> Wow.....That will be a stack of rads at the bottom of course? I guess you got that UT60 a while back because the last timeI checked the 480mm UT60 was not due until 12/8 at Aquatuning. Glad I didn't wait for it. Good to know the stock fans aren't too loud. I still got an Akasa fan controller just in case, cause I hate a loud setup and with 14 fans......even if they were all Gentle Typhoon AP15's, there would still be a racket.


I was joking about stacking ..... see EDIT above.

As for stock..... Frozen delivered in 48 hours. The Reeven came in too.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chrisnyc75*
> 
> Do you have the top fans on the inside or outside of the chassis? If you put them on top of the chassis, under the mesh top of course, then the rad + bottom fan (=85mm) should fit even with high profile ram or vrm cooler.
> 
> Or are you using 140mm rad/fans, and don't have the 58mm offset? I can't quite tell from the picture.


Yes fans are on top. See my edit above. For whatever reason, as you can see in the pics.... once in place the UT60 looks a lot closer to the heat sink then the 140 does. However, while I don't think you will have a problem with the UT60-480 ..... the UT60-420 ya gonna have to wrestle with to get in. As I said above, the XT45-420 was a bear to get in..... after I did it once, I couldn't figure out the 2nd time how I managed it the 1st time. I basically angled it in, then rotated it vertically to bring up to the top and then rotated it sideways .... to horizontal rubbing hard on the inside of the 5.25" bays as it rotated. Maybe would be easier w/o MoBo installed but I really didn't have any issues there.

The 5.25" drive bays are 144mm wide.... then subtract 3mm x 2 for the lips that 5.25" devices slide in on and ya at 138.... the UT60 is about 143.5 wide.

Oh one more thing .....lose the lower grommet if ya have a 140mm wise Rad on the bottom.


----------



## 6steven9

Anyone know where I can order this case in Canada newegg.ca and canadacomputers have had it out of stock for the longest time and ncix.ca doesn't even list it nor does amazon is there another site I can look into that does ship to Canada??


----------



## Roxycon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *6steven9*
> 
> Anyone know where I can order this case in Canada newegg.ca and canadacomputers have had it out of stock for the longest time and ncix.ca doesn't even list it nor does amazon is there another site I can look into that does ship to Canada??


Dosent frozen ship to canada? Of course they aint got it stock, but me too have to at least wait to the 4th for my enthoo and then some more cause of complications from frozen and cdon (got wrong bits and fans)


----------



## JackNaylorPE

OK some more pics .... for those of you still wondering about fit......

420 rad in place at top .... easy fill port option



Both Rads in place (note .... bottom rad cab get closer to rear of case, top stopped by fan sliders another inch available if ya wanna extend them)



35x2 mounted under top HD bay



Hey Phanteks.... can we buy accessories yet ? I need anudder pump skid. Will CAD up a mounting plate and try and have made locally..... if anyone has source suggestions for a plate with 4 holes (118 x 72 center line to center line, I'm all ears. Will send CAD file if anyone else needs.



Looking at 280 from rear of case..... would make a nice easy drain line if not on seams











EDIT: Another missed it by that much moment .... 90 bend from boittom 280 rad misses being puurrrfect by 4mm



If anyone else needs a pic, dimensions shout


----------



## Roxycon

Omg, please say theres enough room to have the inlets/ outlets in front D: have used so much extra on watercooling gear now, dont wanna make changes now..

Say, is it enough room between the front of the case and the hdd cage in back position to run 5/8" od tubing between?


----------



## mixman

Good shots! Definitely no push/pull on that 420mm UT60 up top. Why that as opposed to a 480mm? Probably that the 480mm's are near impossible to find. I was close to getting a MCP35X, but at the last minute chickened out afraid it would be too noisy.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mixman*
> 
> Good shots! Definitely no push/pull on that 420mm UT60 up top. Why that as opposed to a 480mm? Probably that the 480mm's are near impossible to find. I was close to getting a MCP35X, but at the last minute chickened out afraid it would be too noisy.


I wanted to do a UT60 on top but chickened out and went for the XT45-420 up top..... the UT60 is a dually which is going on the bottom. As it was a subject of much discussion, I put it up there and took some measurements. In the end it was the wise choice,,,,, I have got 38mm between bottom of Rad and top of MPCIE combo card thingie..... add the extra 15 for the UT and the 25 for the fan as yet not installed and I'd be bending that bugger.

I went with the 420 cuz:

1. It has slightly more cooling capacity than 480 (doesn't include adjustment for smaller dead area)

120 x 480 = 57,600
140 x 420 = 58,800

2. I wanted the ability to put fan controller in the top two 5.25 bays

3. I wanted the option of using the drain as a fill port at front w/ easy access

3. It's $25 cheaper

5. It's always in stock









I went with the 25x2 because of noise concerns .... can run it at 30% speed. It is H E A V Y tho.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roxycon*
> 
> Omg, please say theres enough room to have the inlets/ outlets in front D: have used so much extra on watercooling gear now, dont wanna make changes now..
> 
> Say, is it enough room between the front of the case and the hdd cage in back position to run 5/8" od tubing between?


If you reverse from how it's shown in the picture, you lose 12-15 mm .... the back edge at the rear of the case is about 12-15 mm away from the grille cause of the way the fan slots are. In this position I had 75.. between the edge of the Rad and the HD cage .... but remember, my cages are not in the stock position..... I have them smack against the fans so if ya saving that space for a front Rad, you are down to about 25 - 30 mm. With the Rad in the position in the pic, I have about 90mm between the Rad edge and the cage.


----------



## doyll

Lots of good info.









Thanks!


----------



## chrisnyc75

So, silly question -- if you are mounting a reservoir on the reservoir bracket, and obviously you have a radiator + fans directly above it, what's the best way to design an accessible fill port? There's no "top" of the EP chassis to drill into to install a fill port even if you run an angled adapter + hose around the radiator above it, so how do you access the fill port on the top of the reservoir?


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chrisnyc75*
> 
> So, silly question -- if you are mounting a reservoir on the reservoir bracket, and obviously you have a radiator + fans directly above it, what's the best way to design an accessible fill port? There's no "top" of the EP chassis to drill into to install a fill port even if you run an angled adapter + hose around the radiator above it, so how do you access the fill port on the top of the reservoir?


This is pretty much what I have been planning on doing. I hope to address this one of several ways, or more likely a combination thereof.

A) There looks to be just barely enough room to snake a hose from a 90 degree fitting screwed into the fill port on top of a tube res mounted to the res bracket up the backside of a 120 series rad and cut a hole for a G1/4 fill port in the top of the case just to the rear of the res bracket. You would have to remove the top panel (and that means removing the front panel first) to be able to access it.

or

B) Run a length of hose from a rotary fitting screwed into the fill port on top of a tube res mounted to the res bracket with a stop plug fitting in the end of it out of view either into the 5.25" bays or to the backside of the case- & secure it somewhere there out of the way - to where I can pull the hose out the side panel upward and remove the stop plug to use it as a fill port when I want to. I'll just have to hold it up while filling this way.

or

C) Drill holes in the back of the top of the case for 15-20mm extensions screwed into the top-facing inlet/outlet ports of my 480 XT45 to pass thru to use them as fill ports (the bottom-facing inlet/outlet ports will be in use for the loop, but the top-facing ports would otherwise normally be plugged). Like option A, this will also require removing the top panel (and that means removing the front panel first) to be able to access them. When filling using either of these ports, I would only need to be able to have enough room to open the fill port on the res to allow air to escape so that the water can fill up into the res from below. When the water level reaches the top of the res, I can cap off the res and continue filling thru the radiator-mounted fill-port to almost completely fill the loop that way.

I can either accomplish opening/closing the fill port in the top of the res by doing options A or B, or in my case if I were to just leave the fill port plug in the top of the res it looks like there will only be a little less than 20mm of space between the top of the res and the bottom of the push fan on my top rad. I should be able to open/close the fill port with an offset right-angle screwdriver, and if it proves to be too tight for that I have plans to make my own tool that will fit.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chrisnyc75*
> 
> So, silly question -- if you are mounting a reservoir on the reservoir bracket, and obviously you have a radiator + fans directly above it, what's the best way to design an accessible fill port? There's no "top" of the EP chassis to drill into to install a fill port even if you run an angled adapter + hose around the radiator above it, so how do you access the fill port on the top of the reservoir?


Not sure if I understand what you are asking



Looking at the image below, there are 6 ports at one end and 1 at the other. The fans do not cover the ports extending only to the edge of the Rad, not the little chamber where the ports are.

If say you are using a Monsta 480 in the bottom .... with ports at back of case, you could run a vertical line up from the top port up thru the roof of the case .... at the point where ye get in line horizontally with ya CPU, insert a Tee ..... or ...... above the Tee install a small Res to give ya some breathing room


----------



## chrisnyc75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> B) Run a hose from a rotary fitting screwed into the fill port on top of a tube res mounted to the res bracket with a stop plug fitting in the end of it out of view either into the 5.25" bays or to the backside of the case- & secure it somewhere there out of the way - to where I can pull the hose out the side panel upward and remove the stop plug to use it as a fill port when I want to. I'll just have to hold it up while filling this way.


This seems like the most reasonable, although not particularly "elegant", solution to me. If there were a true "ceiling" to the chassis I'd just run a hose up there using some angled adapters and install a port with a plug in the top, but since the top is essentially just an open reservoir bracket, there's really not much in the way of surface area to install a port. If I didn't already have a GTX 360 radiator for the top, I'd probably make a res with an extra port(s) a priority.

It may be easier to just dismount the radiator and slide it aside to allow temporary access to the reservoir top fill port when fill time rolls around? I only really plan on refilling it every 6 months or so. Or is that just asking for headaches?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> Not sure if I understand what you are asking
> 
> 
> 
> Looking at the image below, there are 6 ports at one end and 1 at the other. The fans do not cover the ports extending only to the edge of the Rad, not the little chamber where the ports are.
> 
> If say you are using a Monsta 480 in the bottom .... with ports at back of case, you could run a vertical line up from the top port up thru the roof of the case .... at the point where ye get in line horizontally with ya CPU, insert a Tee ..... or ...... above the Tee install a small Res to give ya some breathing room


I'm using a Monsta 360 in the bottom, Black Ice GTX 360 in the top, & XSPC Photon res (mouted on the bracket). The Monsta has lots of ports, I'm using the backside bottom one as a drain port with a rotary valve. The BlackIce 360, though, only has 2 ports on it (iirc? not at home to check right now), so there's no way to run a fill port into the top res, and the "open" ceiling design of the case doesn't make for an obvious place to mount a top fill-port routed from the reservoir or bottom rad.

I just placed my big wc hardware order last night, so I'm still in the planning phase (albeit, several months into it), and this is my first wc project, so maybe I'm missing something totally obvious.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> [...] I plan on making a little rolling cabinet the same length+width of the case about 6" tall that I will mount the case to so it can be moved around when needed. Just like the one I made for my Cosmo 2 it will be painted black to match the case and house one long drawer that pulls out from the front to store extra parts, software CDs, etc, everything that I like to always keep with the computer, and will roll around on a set of extra large 3"(75mm) desk chair casters.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hereisphilly*
> 
> Do you have any pictures of your current cabinet? It sounds like a great idea, and it doubles up as providing a flat surface to raise the case up off my man-cave carpet!


Sorry so long to post pictures of this. It's usually tucked up between the desk and a wall to where I couldn't get pictures of it very easily.

This is the little rolling cabinet I made for my Cosmo II with my (still empty) Enthoo Primo sitting on it ...





It's not really anything all that special but I like it. Most of it is made out of 2x6s. lol

The Enthoo Primo is so much smaller than my Cosmo II it just doesn't even look right to me sitting on that. But that's OK, I've already started making another smaller sized one just for it ...


----------



## JackNaylorPE

If you have a 360, shud be plenty of room at the top. Looking at my 1st pic above, that's a 420 so you have an extra 600m. Reverse the rad, putting the ports towards front. Now instead of the 90s that you'd have coming in and out make one a tee. Coming up from the tee run a tube up to the top ending with one of these



Mount the fill port with a piece of sheet metal 50mm x 142mm with three holes longitudinally. Two near the ends for 6/32 mounting screws (125mm apart) and one lined up with your Tee about 20mm in diameter to mount the port. The end holes could be slots for a little adjustment. Here's a drawing:

Fill Port Mounting Plate.pdf 16k .pdf file


----------



## chrisnyc75

That is a much more elegant solution, Jack, thanks.







In the interest of killing two birds with one stone, though, I'm actually thinking now that I may just temporarily dismount the top radiator, slide it out of the way and below the fill line of the reservoir, and just leave it there while I fill & bleed the system. That will make for easy access to the top port on the res, and make for easier bleeding since with the top rad moved down the res will be the top component in the system.

You're right, though, that the real solution for a permanent top-mounted fill port would be to install a custom bracket. Seems Phanteks didn't think of *everything* after all, huh?


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Sorry so long to post pictures of this. It's usually tucked up between the desk and a wall to where I couldn't get pictures of it very easily.
> 
> This is the little rolling cabinet I made for my Cosmo II with my (still empty) Enthoo Primo sitting on it ...
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's not really anything all that special but I like it. Most of it is made out of 2x6s. lol
> 
> The Enthoo Primo is so much smaller than my Cosmo II it just doesn't even look right to me sitting on that. But that's OK, I've already started making another smaller sized one just for it ...


Just made this. 6x 40mm twin castors on frame of 32mm strips of 10mm birch 7 ply void-free plywood overlap joint on corners painted satin black. Like the way it matches case base thickness.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chrisnyc75*
> 
> That is a much more elegant solution, Jack, thanks.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the interest of killing two birds with one stone, though, I'm actually thinking now that I may just temporarily dismount the top radiator, slide it out of the way and below the fill line of the reservoir, and just leave it there while I fill & bleed the system. That will make for easy access to the top port on the res, and make for easier bleeding since with the top rad moved down the res will be the top component in the system.
> 
> You're right, though, that the real solution for a permanent top-mounted fill port would be to install a custom bracket. Seems Phanteks didn't think of *everything* after all, huh?


It would be a simple thing to provide that bracket .... I'd be happy to donate all my plate designs to Phanteks at no charge .... well other than a shot at the Enthoo II for evaluation purposes of course









Have my 35x2 plate at a CNC shop (friend of my sons) to see if the can do it at the moment.

Here's a copy of that:

35X2 Mounting Plate-Model.pdf 24k .pdf file

.
If they can do it, I'll ask if they can make me your plate too .... no idea what if anything they gonna charge me.

Also, as to the drain problem ..... low rad with Bitspower 90 bend does the trick .... I'll either put a Quick Disconnect or Valve and plug.

A 25mm extension from one closes to side with plug will work .... till ya take the plug out









A male / male extender I'm gonna guess adds about 10mm .... dunno how long the valve or disconnects are so hard to figure .... could always go to one in back and make it work with an extender or 2 ... gives ya an extra 70mm to play with.



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Just made this. 6x 40mm twin castors on frame of 32mm strips of 10mm birch 7 ply void-free plywood overlap joint on corners painted satin black. Like the way it matches case base thickness.


Nicely done ? How much for one made to match my Bitspower Fittings .... same color and materials ? And shipped to Long Island ..... and it must serve double duty as a skateboard !







?

*BTW, in case my local CNC shop (they in HVAC business) can't handle my 35x2 plate .... anyone know of anyone who services OCN folks ?*

.


----------



## chrisnyc75

I've had the drain port figured out for a while, I'm not too worried about that. It wasn't until last night, though, as I had the chassis open in front of me taking measurements and inventory as I placed my hardware order, that I realized that the using the top port on the reservoir to fill and bleed was going to be a problem. Gonna take your advice into account and give it some thought over the weekend. Thanks


----------



## JackNaylorPE

I just sent the plan for your plate to the shop (see modded drawing just reuploaded) .... if you can confirm dimensions for me for your rad, I'll try and get two made .....offered case of beer







.

I'm guessing that we only need to verify the size of the bulkhead fitting hole and the distance from the edge for your rad.

Curious why ya gave up the drill the case out idea ..... especially since I was planning same.

Tho since ya got me thinking.... I might just slide foreward and forget about drilling. It will cost me top drive bay which justy means dropping the Reeven


----------



## stilllogicz

Is there any plans for white or white/black version of this to be released?


----------



## chrisnyc75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> I just sent the plan for your plate to the shop (see modded drawing just reuploaded) .... if you can confirm dimensions for me for your rad, I'll try and get two made .....offered case of beer
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> I'm guessing that we only need to verify the size of the bulkhead fitting hole and the distance from the edge for your rad.
> 
> Curious why ya gave up the drill the case out idea ..... especially since I was planning same.
> 
> Tho since ya got me thinking.... I might just slide foreward and forget about drilling. It will cost me top drive bay which justy means dropping the Reeven


Thanks, but the more I've thought about it today (which has been basically ALL day lol), the more I like the idea of either displacing the radiator temporarily so it's below the reservoir OR pulling out the reservoir temporarily so it's above the radiator just while I fill (& bleed) the loop. I think that might actually allow for the cleanest/easiest bleed process while not requiring any additional hardware (which, in my case as a first-timer, is just more room for error lol)

I appreciate all the input, though!







I can't wait to get the actual build underway next week(ish)


----------



## Hereisphilly

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Just made this. 6x 40mm twin castors on frame of 32mm strips of 10mm birch 7 ply void-free plywood overlap joint on corners painted satin black. Like the way it matches case base thickness.


That looks amazing!!
Do you have your case then? Didn't think they were released in the UK yet?!


----------



## JackNaylorPE

OK, here's da final plan. Think I have it figured out.....

1. If anyone find this useful, glad to help out.

2. If anyone sees any issues, please bring em up now

EnthooDimensions.pdf 181k .pdf file


Bah forgot to rotate it .... ...fixed and reuploaded

Layout Based upon ......

(1) NexXXosS XT45-420 in P/P up top
(1) NexXXosS UT60-280 in P/P on bottom
(1) Swiftech 35X2 Pump
(2) EK150 Reservoirs

Now all I need to figure out is pump mounting plate and reservoir mounting.

I have seen lotsa builds w/ stacked reservoirs.... tho for life of me, can't figire how they get ports to line up.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hereisphilly*
> 
> That looks amazing!!
> Do you have your case then? Didn't think they were released in the UK yet?!


Not mine Mate. Went to a guy who got a Primo before release. Am making one for myself too. I expect cases to be released any time now.


----------



## Hereisphilly

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Not mine Mate. Went to a guy who got a Primo before release. Am making one for myself too. I expect cases to be released any time now.


Phew! I got worried for a sec that I didn't make the pre order stock allocation!
Yeah I'm champing at the bit now, ready and waiting!


----------



## Pimaddafakkr

I'm sorry to bother you guys with this kind of silly question. has anyone of you guys tried fitting a XL-ATX mb in this case? I know it says it only supports E-ATX but I have a MSI bigbang 2011socket, and i was wondering if it would fit. Cause then i would probably get rid of my cosmus and get this case.

MSI dimensions:
Dimension
• 34.5cm(L) x 26.4cm(W) XL-ATX Form Factor
Mounting
• 12 mounting holes.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jassilamba*
> 
> The only thing I get really anal about making sure is aligned is how the wheels on my cars look when parked. They all are at the same angel.
> 
> But getting back to the solution:
> 
> Air flow for SSDs should not be a concern, but if you are, then you can use the spot behind the motherboard.
> 
> Talking about my build, hopefully it will be drained and taken apart in the next week. Going to redo the tube that intakes the water to the CPU block. Its gonna be fun working on 4 builds at the same time


I know this is an old post... but... Do you rotate your tires weekly to compensate for slip when driving?


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pimaddafakkr*
> 
> I'm sorry to bother you guys with this kind of silly question. has anyone of you guys tried fitting a XL-ATX mb in this case? I know it says it only supports E-ATX but I have a MSI bigbang 2011socket, and i was wondering if it would fit. Cause then i would probably get rid of my cosmus and get this case.
> 
> MSI dimensions:
> Dimension
> • 34.5cm(L) x 26.4cm(W) XL-ATX Form Factor
> Mounting
> • 12 mounting holes.


Not at case atm but does the dimensions in Post # 1000 help ya (PDF file).....I remember the tray being like 350 wide and 330 high


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Question for the Veterans .....

I can't use a tall reservoir in the enthoo cause the 780s don't leave enough room. I always liked the look of the mods with "2 story reservoirs" So since the only thing in the way of my tall reservoir is the back end of the bottom 5.25" bay which wud cut me res in half.

Option one is taking the bays out and cutting a semicircle to fit the res.

Option 2 is stacking two reservoirs .... My thought is one (1) 150mm res with basically just under half of it sitting on the bottom of the bottom drive 5.25" bay. Come outta the bottom of that with an extender and go right into the 2nd reservoir Of course .... and herein lies my dilemma, can you mount a reservoir upside down ? In order for this to work, the 2nd story reservoir would have to have matching center hole an the easiest way I can think of to do that is simply turn a reservoir upside down. Two advantages there,..... one 1st and 2nd story line up and two, with multiple ports now on the top, I can have another fill / air bleed port.

Is there anything "problematic" about mounting a reservoir upside down ?

Also aesthetic question ..... with all the black and red .... I am pondering the idea of using white acetal to break it up a bit .... two concerns ..... dunno what t looks like IRL.... I kinda get a cheap labware jive in some pics.... and not sure about the black and white mix thing.


----------



## ADragg

Hey JackNaylor - just curious what program you use create those drawings? And what that font is called if it's a normal font that can be found. It's quite obviously an architectural hand-lettering styled font and it looks very close to my own architectural hand lettering (except obviously it's less humanized since every letter is identical). I would love to find a way to use it in my Revit projects.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pimaddafakkr*
> 
> I'm sorry to bother you guys with this kind of silly question. has anyone of you guys tried fitting a XL-ATX mb in this case? I know it says it only supports E-ATX but I have a MSI bigbang 2011socket, and i was wondering if it would fit. Cause then i would probably get rid of my cosmus and get this case.
> 
> MSI dimensions:
> Dimension
> • 34.5cm(L) x 26.4cm(W) XL-ATX Form Factor
> Mounting
> • 12 mounting holes.


Sorry. Enthoo Primo doesn't support XL ATX.
If it did I'd already have had my Z87 XPower in it within minutes of first laying hands on the case.

And on that note, I finally just did manage to place a pre-order at Newegg for the Rampage IV Black Edition, to be released Nov 15. By then I should manage to have my 4930K and ram on the way also.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ADragg*
> 
> Hey JackNaylor - just curious what program you use create those drawings? And what that font is called if it's a normal font that can be found. It's quite obviously an architectural hand-lettering styled font and it looks very close to my own architectural hand lettering (except obviously it's less humanized since every letter is identical). I would love to find a way to use it in my Revit projects.


I have three of similar style ......

GCAD - just checked .... used to use years ago .... not in my ACAD13 or 14 fonts folder tho .... prolly archived somewhere
ARCHSTYLE - started using this in place of above once I found it - try http://www.cadcorner.ca/textstyles.php
MONOARCH - a mono space version of above - try http://www.cadtutor.net/forum/showthread.php?39712-762-SHX-AutoCAD-Fonts


----------



## jassilamba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> I know this is an old post... but... Do you rotate your tires weekly to compensate for slip when driving?


Sadly yes, I wash my cars every week (good ole 2 bucket hand wash), and once I'm done I do take make sure that the wheels are in perfect harmony. One is easy given the design of the wheels whereas the other is spoke design and that is the one that gets to me mostly.

@Jack - you can contact FannBlade for custom work if you havent found someone already - http://www.overclock.net/u/131568/fannblade


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jassilamba*
> 
> Sadly yes, I wash my cars every week (good ole 2 bucket hand wash), and once I'm done I do take make sure that the wheels are in perfect harmony. One is easy given the design of the wheels whereas the other is spoke design and that is the one that gets to me mostly.
> 
> @Jack - you can contact FanBlade for custom work if you haven't found someone already - http://www.overclock.net/u/131568/fannblade


hey dude..... get some spinners








..... makes it easy...... I see it now "Jesse's matching Low Rider Mods" ..... one for his PC (on low rider casters of course) and one for his car.

And thanks for the tip.


----------



## Deepblue77

I have read through this entire thread and I generally agree with the consensus that this is a great case. However, because of its design, I feel like my water cooling options are very limited compared to something like a 900D. Don't get me wrong, aesthetically, the 900D doesnt hold a candle to the Primo, but I would have to give the 900D the nod when it comes to functionality. Two examples of annoying design decisions that would have been alleviated if they made the case a few mm larger in all directions:

1. Because I have a 290x, I cant use the reservoir mounting bracket. Not a huge deal but the bracket is very nice looking and it hides a bunch of cables.

2. Radiators longer than 280mm on the bottom cannot be wider than 125mm. Not a problem for monsta's but it is for many others including the one that I wanted to use, teh Aquacomputer Airplex.

I still love the case but I do feel very restricted in my options. I guess it will hold me over until I get a Caselabs Magnum


----------



## bond32

What are the 290x dimensions? I thought it would fit with the bracket... I don't think crossfire will fit though.

The 780 lightning I had was one of the few that didn't fit. The 7990 wont either to my knowledge. (reservoir bracket on)

You can always mount a res on the side as well...


----------



## Deepblue77

I didnt measure it but the bare pcb would fit. The cooler extends a few mm past the pcb and makes it just long enough that it wont fit. Not a huge deal but its a bummer to not be able to use a neat piece of kit.


----------



## bond32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deepblue77*
> 
> I didnt measure it but the bare pcb would fit. The cooler extends a few mm past the pcb and makes it just long enough that it wont fit. Not a huge deal but its a bummer to not be able to use a neat piece of kit.


I really thought it would have fit... This is with the plastic piece off of the res bracket right?


----------



## JackNaylorPE

My Enthoo build is sitting here waiting for GFX cards ... so thank God the 290 is finally coming out. I'm not using it .... cooling already strained so will stick with a pair of 780s or 780 Ti's but the 290x did wonders to adjust nVidia's pricing .... yeay ! Hats off to AMD for saving me $300







.

The 290x is reported to be 10.9" long .... I just measured the distance from the expansion slots to the bracket at 10-15/16 or 10.9375" ... with the air cooler removed and WB fitted may be short enuff to fit w/o issue.

You are very close to fitting maybe have to shave the bracket down a little. If doing CF, if you have no slots between the two cards, both should fit.

If you have a slot between the cards like to do (3 slot spacing), then the lower card will hit the angled portion.

But yes, I agree ..... there's quite a few dimensional issues Id like to see in Enthoo II

If it was an inch deeper depth wise it would fit just about every GFX card w/ bracket in place and 75-80 reservoirs
If case was > 20 mm wider, or stiffner redesigned, it would fit 145mm wide Rads
If case was > 6 mm taller 80mm, 120 wide Rad in P/P (86+25) would miss the RAM (at least on M6F)
If case was > 11 mm taller 80mm, 140 wide Rad in would miss the HS (at least on M6F)
If case was > 10 mm taller 60mm, 140 wide Rad in would miss the HS in P/P (at least on M6F)
If case was 5mm deeper ya could fit a 90 bend and radiator drain froma 280 Rad at bottom.

You can remove that panel and fit wider rads or even cut it and reinstall but yes, an extra 20mm wuda been nice.

If ya do fit with the shorter card w/ WD's, it's a simple thing to cut the plastic cover around the cards and reinstall.


----------



## Deepblue77

Even with the plastic piece off the reservoir bracket, the reference 290x does not fit. I tried jamming it in last night before I removed the bracket. For comparison, my 7970 Windforce did fit fine with the bracket installed.

p.s. The 290x sounds like a jet engine if you crank the fan (i.e. over 60%). In quiet mode, its very quiet and Uber isnt too bad either.


----------



## mixman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deepblue77*
> 
> I have read through this entire thread and I generally agree with the consensus that this is a great case. However, because of its design, I feel like my water cooling options are very limited compared to something like a 900D. Don't get me wrong, aesthetically, the 900D doesnt hold a candle to the Primo, but I would have to give the 900D the nod when it comes to functionality. Two examples of annoying design decisions that would have been alleviated if they made the case a few mm larger in all directions:
> 
> 1. Because I have a 290x, I cant use the reservoir mounting bracket. Not a huge deal but the bracket is very nice looking and it hides a bunch of cables.
> 
> 2. Radiators longer than 280mm on the bottom cannot be wider than 125mm. Not a problem for monsta's but it is for many others including the one that I wanted to use, teh Aquacomputer Airplex.
> 
> I still love the case but I do feel very restricted in my options. I guess it will hold me over until I get a Caselabs Magnum


The funny thing is I was about to hit the order button on the 900D when it was only $289 free ship at NCIX. I then found this thread and for me this was the perfect case. The 900D is just bordering on monstrous and that's why it can accommodate just about any water cooling build you throw at it. I guess Phanteks tried to make their smaller case almost as versatile, but honestly nothing beats sheer size which the 900D has. The 900D was going to be a real tight fit under my desk so the Phanteks is fine for me. I guess Phanteks had to make a compromise......large enough for most builds but not to large for the average builder.


----------



## stilllogicz

I'm so gonna replace my switch 810 with one of these!

WTS switch 810 white & black!


----------



## Deepblue77

I agree that Phanteks was trying to find a balance of sleek vs. functionality. I am just saying that they leaned a little too far on the sleek side. That being said, it is a beautiful case and it feels and looks like a quality product. I came from a 350d before the Primo and I can definitely say that I am all done with small cases. My next case is definitely going to be a double wide monstrosity.

P.S. Does anyone else's Primo creak when its running? It almost seems like the heat of the system is causing it to expand and the metal is making noise periodically. It happens every time that I used the computer for more than 15 minutes. I have never experienced this type of behavior before.


----------



## stilllogicz

Just pulled the trigger from newegg. 1 Enthoo Primo being prepped for shipment. Upgrade in progress!


----------



## doyll

Congrats stilllogicz!


----------



## McSasquatch

Hi folks - long time lurker, first time poster.

As somebody who'll be buying the Primo in the next month or two, I just wanted to say thanks to everyone who contributes to this thread. It's been a great resource for me having recently decided my next gaming PC will the first that I water cool. The info and feedback here, as well as all the video reviews have pretty much helped me decide that the Primo will be the perfect case to house this build!

Speaking of info, is Martin's Pump and Rad tool still floating around? I think Jesse offered to mail it to someone recently. Would love to have a play around with it while I plan my build.


----------



## jassilamba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *McSasquatch*
> 
> Hi folks - long time lurker, first time poster.
> 
> As somebody who'll be buying the Primo in the next month or two, I just wanted to say thanks to everyone who contributes to this thread. It's been a great resource for me having recently decided my next gaming PC will the first that I water cool. The info and feedback here, as well as all the video reviews have pretty much helped me decide that the Primo will be the perfect case to house this build!
> 
> Speaking of info, is Martin's Pump and Rad tool still floating around? I think Jesse offered to mail it to someone recently. Would love to have a play around with it while I plan my build.


Send me your email address, and I will email it to you.

Jesse


----------



## McSasquatch

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jassilamba*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *McSasquatch*
> 
> Hi folks - long time lurker, first time poster.
> 
> As somebody who'll be buying the Primo in the next month or two, I just wanted to say thanks to everyone who contributes to this thread. It's been a great resource for me having recently decided my next gaming PC will the first that I water cool. The info and feedback here, as well as all the video reviews have pretty much helped me decide that the Primo will be the perfect case to house this build!
> 
> Speaking of info, is Martin's Pump and Rad tool still floating around? I think Jesse offered to mail it to someone recently. Would love to have a play around with it while I plan my build.
> 
> 
> 
> Send me your email address, and I will email it to you.
> 
> Jesse
Click to expand...

Thanks man. PM sent!


----------



## jassilamba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *McSasquatch*
> 
> Thanks man. PM sent!


You got mail...


----------



## McSasquatch

Great! Thanks Jesse - much appreciated!


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deepblue77*
> 
> Even with the plastic piece off the reservoir bracket, the reference 290x does not fit. I tried jamming it in last night before I removed the bracket. For comparison, my 7970 Windforce did fit fine with the bracket installed.
> 
> p.s. The 290x sounds like a jet engine if you crank the fan (i.e. over 60%). In quiet mode, its very quiet and Uber isnt too bad either.


I assume you mean the air cooled version. How far does the cooler hang over ? Looking at some pics , I see only a small plastic strip along the far edge .... looks like it will be 1/4 - 3/8" shorter w/ a water block.

As for the noise .... it comes from the case window moving in the frame .... I been tossing around all sorts of ideas from rubber paining the back side biut it's not gonna be easy .... the window has a channel which into which fits a lip.

__ .|__| .___
....|____|

The lip when pressed in therefore makes contact on 3 sides and with any twist of thermal movement it's gonna rub ....... it also rattles cause the securing mechanism (tabs) each apply a different amount if pressure. I thought of tape but I doubt there's room ..... because of the tabs and lip go inside the channel and are folded over , I notice:

1. Some of the acrylic was chipped during the install process.... Id say 4 or 5 of mine have noticeable chips under the tabs where they weren't pressed down evenly .... if ya remove it, you don't wanna do it repeatedly...... nice idea.... tool less ..... but if ya do it often fatigue failure will result on the tabs

2. I don't see how ya can eliminate the noise just yet.... panel is too flexible and attachment points use the tabs as "stops" which allow slight travel..... lemme sleep on it.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *McSasquatch*
> 
> Hi folks - long time lurker, first time poster.
> 
> As somebody who'll be buying the Primo in the next month or two, I just wanted to say thanks to everyone who contributes to this thread. It's been a great resource for me having recently decided my next gaming PC will the first that I water cool. The info and feedback here, as well as all the video reviews have pretty much helped me decide that the Primo will be the perfect case to house this build!
> 
> Speaking of info, is Martin's Pump and Rad tool still floating around? I think Jesse offered to mail it to someone recently. Would love to have a play around with it while I plan my build.


I also sent ya a PM with a spreadsheet of extrapolated data from martins tests to cover the full Aquacool line. Post 1000 has a PDF of dimensions


----------



## McSasquatch

Thanks Jack, much obliged!


----------



## JackNaylorPE

While I was struggling with getting the right side of the case on (side fans kept clipping wires) I looked at the twisted STA data cables and power cables and thought it was awful messy. Thinking that some custom cabling would eliminate most, it occurred to me that the best place to mount one of those SSD mounts was inside a HD tray.....line up all the data / power cables in a straight line and things get a lot neater. Nice option and all to be able to hang that mountie thingie wherever ... but it would been almost no effort at all to allow HD bay mounting also..... another idea for Enthoo 2,

You can mount one on there as screw holes are provided but the ability to stack them 2 in a HD bay on the provided mount woulda been a big plus. I looked at the mountie thingie and thought a few drill holes would accommodate me but they all wind up on the the edge of the channels. Think I can accomplish my goals w/ zip ties but wud like sumthin more elegant









Well will be something for them to consider for Enthoo 2.


----------



## ADragg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> I have three of similar style ......
> 
> GCAD - just checked .... used to use years ago .... not in my ACAD13 or 14 fonts folder tho .... prolly archived somewhere
> ARCHSTYLE - started using this in place of above once I found it - try http://www.cadcorner.ca/textstyles.php
> MONOARCH - a mono space version of above - try http://www.cadtutor.net/forum/showthread.php?39712-762-SHX-AutoCAD-Fonts


Cool, thanks!


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> While I was struggling with getting the right side of the case on (side fans kept clipping wires) I looked at the twisted STA data cables and power cables and thought it was awful messy. Thinking that some custom cabling would eliminate most, it occurred to me that the best place to mount one of those SSD mounts was inside a HD tray.....line up all the data / power cables in a straight line and things get a lot neater. Nice option and all to be able to hang that mountie thingie wherever ... but it would been almost no effort at all to allow HD bay mounting also..... another idea for Enthoo 2,
> 
> You can mount one on there as screw holes are provided but the ability to stack them 2 in a HD bay on the provided mount woulda been a big plus. I looked at the mountie thingie and thought a few drill holes would accommodate me but they all wind up on the the edge of the channels. Think I can accomplish my goals w/ zip ties but wud like sumthin more elegant
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well will be something for them to consider for Enthoo 2.


Maybe something like these would work for what you want to do ...

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817994087
http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/SearchTools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=8466414


----------



## bond32

Got an EX480 on its way. So here's what I have:
1 EX480 (low fpi)
1 Swiftech MCR-360XP (high fpi)
1 Swiftech MCR-120XP (high fpi)

6x Scythe AP-15's
3x Corsair SP-120 HP
2x XSPC 2000rpm

I was thinking: put the 360 up top with the corsair fans and paint the rings yellow so push (exhaust). Put the 480 in the bottom in push (intake) with the ap-15's (4), and put the 120 somewhere, maybe top side in push pull if it will fit with the other 2 ap-15's. Thoughts?

I want to use one of the two drive cages so not sure if the rad bracket will fit with it in place. Otherwise, might be able to mount the single 120 on the rad bracket. Also will be using an XSPC dual bay res with a d5 pump.

I can't get over how quiet my setup is at the moment. I don't have a video card (using onboard). All fans are controlled by the pwm board, running the 360 in push pull and the pump on a low setting. The computer is literally darn near silent. Never had anything this quiet.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Maybe something like these would work for what you want to do ...


Thanks for the link...... but what I meant was they did so many things right this simple thing wuda went a long way. They already have the cage and the tray .... small design change for the bottom of the tray wuda accomnodated screw holes to fit the SSD mount.

Jack's Zip Mod ...... (makes extensive use of black zip ties) .... written for two SSDs, ignore 2nd if ya don't have

1. Check Ya MoBo for SATA assignments ..... normally connectors are stacked like this.

SATA 0
SATA 1
_______________________
|______________________| MoBo PCB

*If that's what ya have all directions work . If reversed, reverse accordingly as applicable.

2. Put the Boot SSD in on the bottom of the SSD Mount (SATA 0) / Put the Alternate SSD in on the Top of the SSD Mount (SATA 1)

3. With the connectors side of the HD tray facing you, on the left side of the HD tray you will see a small rectangular hole. Put the male end of a small black (4") zip tie thru.Take another and stick it thru that ones female end. Not the position of the little rectangular female ends of the zip ties

__________ 2nd Zip Tie____________________|_| < 2nd Zip Tie (female end)
|_|Top Left of SSD Mount looking from connector end | <- --- 3rd zip tie (male end)
|
|

1st Zip tie

4. The 1st and 3rd zip ties will go together underneath the HD Tray

5. That done, turn over to get at bottom and secure sliding movement by making a single tie loop thru the mounting holes on the SSD bracket and around one of the 45 degree slats in the HD tray. Make another at the apax of the two slats like that were in meets back of tray.

6. Tie the two loops together with a third tie.

Quite secure and will serve till ya come up with something more elegant.


----------



## dsmwookie

What are you guys using for fan controllers?

Having a hard time finding a quality unit that will fit behind the door.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Cut this out of previous post as didn't want it to get lost ......

Potential Fan Issues with Radiator Mounting

*1. Bottom Tray Mount:*

Hmmmm..... unless I''m missing something (gonna feel like an idiot in morning after someone points out the obvious







? ..... *But ..... Houston, we have a problem*.

- Mounted the 420 NeXXosS us in case top ..... went smooth as silk. I was afraid using the Blue LED Phanteks fans up there would be too blingy but looks nice and laid back BTW.

- Started mounting the 280 and hit a snag. Look at page 28 of the manual and we see that the "Rad Sandwich" = Bracket - Fans - Rad - Fans. Problem is the Phanteks fan screw slots are wide and the NeXXosS rad screws have very thin heads. When ya head sits against a fan as in the top .... top rad sandwich = fan - case - rad - fan, no problem However when the bottom tray is used, the head sits against the tray and slips right thru the fan screw slot on the tray bracket.

Looked at the manual and (page 8) and saw identical length screws 31 mm and said.....way cool....I'll have to drop a note on OCN indicating that the front HDD / Fan screws will do double duty but wrong thread. So unless I'm missing something .....ya gotta hit the hardware store before ya install bottom Rad.

*Edit:* - Back from store...... I used the short screws on the top rad. On the bottom ..... at least on the bracket side, I found after adding the washer the screws were too short (more on that later) ..... Using the long screws, I had to add 2 washers .... so when ya go to the hardware store.....and wait 20 minutes for the kid to find the stuff .... ya don't wanna do it twice. I bought 12 thinking I needed 8 ..... used 12, need 4 more tomorrow.

*2. Case Fans and Phanteks PH-F140SP_BK / Phanteks PH-F140SP_BK_BLEDNOTE are NOT same fans:* - The case fans that come with the case are different from the ones ya buy as accessories. The latter have these nice rubber anti-vibration pads in the corners. The 2 case fans I took out (relocated top and bottom case fans to right side) do not have them...... neither does the rear. I tried to "steal it" for the bottom rad (new egg shorted me one, ran outta stock). Almost damaged the rad as without the pads, the fans that come with the case are 3mm thinner than the pre-installed ones. .... luckily I noticed before any harm done. So two concerns:

a) Be careful .... take note of the fan thickness and be aware ya have to use different screws if mixing original and separately purchased fans

b) They rattle if ya try sneaking one in the middle between the other two thicker ones.
Wonder if we can buy these from Phanteks ?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dsmwookie*
> 
> What are you guys using for fan controllers?
> 
> Having a hard time finding a quality unit that will fit behind the door.


Reeven Six Eyes works puuurfect .... have to remove Phantaks lever bay mount thingie (takes 2 secs) to affix, then put it back on


----------



## Gunilla95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dsmwookie*
> 
> What are you guys using for fan controllers?
> 
> Having a hard time finding a quality unit that will fit behind the door.


Hellu fellas.
Been looking at some threads on overclock.net for sometime now.
But this thread made me join!

Love this case and i will buy on for christmas for myself.

I think my NZXT Sentry LX will fit, scared my SCYTHE wont.


----------



## ADragg

So it looks like the Asus DirectCU II GTX 780 will work with the res mounting bracket IF (and only if) it's a watercooled card using something like the EK Asus DCU II specific full cover water block for the Asus 780. I believe that's what I'm hearing. However, will a tube res still be able to be mounted on the bracket and clear the card??

If so, what size and specific brands of res's would you guys recommend. And if not, would mounting it on the other mounting location at the back of the case below the rear case fan (next to the expansion slots) be okay. Either way, I would love suggestions on a good place to mount a tube res where it's visible but will still fit.

This is my first custom loop, which is why I bought this case. If I'm looking to do a simple CPU/GPU loop that is high quality and low maintenance and low noise, but not going to overclock like crazy, so I'm not looking to spend a ton on the highest end components $500-600 for EVERYTHING, including some Mayhem Pastel, any additives, tubing, compression fittings, etc.

As far as things I've somewhat nailed down, I think I'll be going with the EK block for the Asus GTX 780 because I want to light up that acrylic and because Asus supports EK's product. I'm think either a matching acrylic EK block or the XSPC Raystorm (they both seem quality for a mid-range price and have more acrylic to light up woohoo! But open to suggestions on an part of this). I'm thinking a triple 140 rad (420), such as the UT60? Or should I go Monsta?

No idea what pump or res. That's the main thing I'd like feedback on, is what size res I should get for this build (CPU/GPU with moderate overclocking) and where it should be placed so that it fits. But I thought I'd list the whole premise for this build out in case anyone wants to get into details with me and suggest some parts that would be good for me.

Thanks!


----------



## JackNaylorPE

I been trying to get dimensions of the 780 CU II for weeks .... so far no dice other than what ya find on newegg for the air cooled which ya can see in the pics hangs over a bit. Need dimensions of PCB to confirm. If ya add a 2nd, I think you OK with the cards right under the other but if ya have a 3 slot spacing board like the M6F (one clear slot between), it hits the ****** part of the bracket.

You can see my system layout in post # 1000 with all parts in place. The only thing stopping me from hanging a res in that spot is the bottom of the 5.25 bays ... it basically cuts my planned 250/270 in half. So I thought I would just stack two 150s and let the that bottom structural member stick out between the two but not far enough as to hit the tube / fitting connecting the two.

I have asked cupla times in this thread about the feasibility of such an idea but no feedback as yet. I thought for example the EK 150 res has a center port on top and turning the "2nd story one" up side down the two would line up. However, EK manual says that port should ONLY be used as a fill..... maybe a leak issue ? take a look at the pic in post # 1000 .... meybe between the two of us we'll find an answer.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ADragg*
> 
> So it looks like the Asus DirectCU II GTX 780 will work with the res mounting bracket IF (and only if) it's a watercooled card using something like the EK Asus DCU II specific full cover water block for the Asus 780. I believe that's what I'm hearing. However, will a tube res still be able to be mounted on the bracket and clear the card??
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> If so, what size and specific brands of res's would you guys recommend. And if not, would mounting it on the other mounting location at the back of the case below the rear case fan (next to the expansion slots) be okay. Either way, I would love suggestions on a good place to mount a tube res where it's visible but will still fit.
> 
> This is my first custom loop, which is why I bought this case. If I'm looking to do a simple CPU/GPU loop that is high quality and low maintenance and low noise, but not going to overclock like crazy, so I'm not looking to spend a ton on the highest end components $500-600 for EVERYTHING, including some Mayhem Pastel, any additives, tubing, compression fittings, etc.
> 
> As far as things I've somewhat nailed down, I think I'll be going with the EK block for the Asus GTX 780 because I want to light up that acrylic and because Asus supports EK's product. I'm think either a matching acrylic EK block or the XSPC Raystorm (they both seem quality for a mid-range price and have more acrylic to light up woohoo! But open to suggestions on an part of this). I'm thinking a triple 140 rad (420), such as the UT60? Or should I go Monsta?
> 
> No idea what pump or res. That's the main thing I'd like feedback on, is what size res I should get for this build (CPU/GPU with moderate overclocking) and where it should be placed so that it fits. But I thought I'd list the whole premise for this build out in case anyone wants to get into details with me and suggest some parts that would be good for me.
> 
> Thanks
> 
> 
> !


You should really look into the EVGA 780 Classi if you are planning to slap a waterblock on it. They are slighly more expensive, but offer you much more control as a user when it comes to overclocking, voltage tweaking, & bios modding. If you are not looking to overclock past the extreme limitations of the stock bios then ignore this post & continue as normal. It's a solid card no doubt, but you can gain much more control over a Classified 780, and it's only ~30-50$ more.


----------



## ADragg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> I been trying to get dimensions of the 780 CU II for weeks .... so far no dice other than what ya find on newegg for the air cooled which ya can see in the pics hangs over a bit. Need dimensions of PCB to confirm. If ya add a 2nd, I think you OK with the cards right under the other but if ya have a 3 slot spacing board like the M6F (one clear slot between), it hits the ****** part of the bracket.
> 
> You can see my system layout in post # 1000 with all parts in place. The only thing stopping me from hanging a res in that spot is the bottom of the 5.25 bays ... it basically cuts my planned 250/270 in half. So I thought I would just stack two 150s and let the that bottom structural member stick out between the two but not far enough as to hit the tube / fitting connecting the two.
> 
> I have asked cupla times in this thread about the feasibility of such an idea but no feedback as yet. I thought for example the EK 150 res has a center port on top and turning the "2nd story one" up side down the two would line up. However, EK manual says that port should ONLY be used as a fill..... maybe a leak issue ? take a look at the pic in post # 1000 .... meybe between the two of us we'll find an answer.


I'm actually getting ready to take apart my 780 and reapply the heatsink with new thermal paste because it seems to be shifting, which is apparently common with these cards. It needs to be tightened down, I guess, but I'm going to take it apart to apply new paste since the paste is probably crap now that it's been shifting like that for a while. I could measure the PCB then and see exactly how much shorter the card will be once the factory cooling is off (I assume the EK water block for this card doesn't add any length?). I'm hoping it will help with the random crashes I've occasionally had lately. I don't get why this card crashes above 1140-ish overclock when the temps never get above 60-70 degrees.

In your drawing, is the mounting of the res's indicative of where they would really be mounted if they were mounted down the center of the bracket? Or are they mounted deeper into the 5.25/3.5" bay area? They look like they're mounted further in (not using the bracket). And if they were mounted on the bracket they wouldn't hit anything (except for the cards, potentially), right? If you wanted to do the slit between two res design, couldn't you just run the tube from the top of the lower res back behind where the cables are routed and up around to the top of the upper res? Going top to top. Another idea is to use one small tube res and one small 5.25 bay mounted res. I've seen that done before.

Is there any reason not to mount a res on the back panel of the case next to the expansion slots, below the rear case fan? Isn' that a designated res mounting spot?


----------



## Hereisphilly

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ADragg*
> 
> Is there any reason not to mount a res on the back panel of the case next to the expansion slots, below the rear case fan? Isn' that a designated res mounting spot?


The only reason not to mount a res there is that you have to remove it if you ever want to change your GPUs
But you're right in that it is a dedicated space for one


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ADragg*
> 
> I'm actually getting ready to take apart my 780 and reapply the heatsink with new thermal paste because it seems to be shifting, which is apparently common with these cards. It needs to be tightened down, I guess, but I'm going to take it apart to apply new paste since the paste is probably crap now that it's been shifting like that for a while. I could measure the PCB then and see exactly how much shorter the card will be once the factory cooling is off (I assume the EK water block for this card doesn't add any length?). I'm hoping it will help with the random crashes I've occasionally had lately. I don't get why this card crashes above 1140-ish overclock when the temps never get above 60-70 degrees.
> 
> In your drawing, is the mounting of the res's indicative of where they would really be mounted if they were mounted down the center of the bracket? Or are they mounted deeper into the 5.25/3.5" bay area? They look like they're mounted further in (not using the bracket). And if they were mounted on the bracket they wouldn't hit anything (except for the cards, potentially), right? If you wanted to do the slit between two res design, couldn't you just run the tube from the top of the lower res back behind where the cables are routed and up around to the top of the upper res? Going top to top. Another idea is to use one small tube res and one small 5.25 bay mounted res. I've seen that done before.
> 
> Is there any reason not to mount a res on the back panel of the case next to the expansion slots, below the rear case fan? Isn't that a designated res mounting spot?


In my drawing, the assumption is that you are doing SLI and therefore the bracket is gone. Here .... the proverbial picture is worth .... 1024 bytes



Note that the Bitspower fittings are 19mm in diameter (say 20) so all it really gets ya is another 20mm usinga 60mm diamater res

But now here we have it ..... the latest official 780 Ti installation with reservoir ... man that card is a work of art ! I can't show pics out in the open or I'll get in trouble w/ nVidia .


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







That's the new 780 Ti with the a special release 66mm reservoir (excellent at preventing corrosion in ya loops I understand).... it was all I could get my hands on ..... picked it up at factory outlet this afternoon...











Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Actually that's an old GT430 or something that I keep around for testing with a cardboard mock up of the Asus DCII 770 PCB held on by rubber bands ..... the 770 DCII reportedly has same PCB as the 780s.



Tye lack of solid dimensions is very frustrating ..... teh GFC+X carsd are bad enuff but the Photon for example is listed as 170 x 75 x 75 .... now if ya aver looked at the thing....it's a cyclibder mounted on a bracket..... will how could the width of the cyclinder be 75 and the depth of the cylinder + bracket also be 75 ????

Between the tubes..... I'm thinking we talkin 5mm each for the 2 extenders + prolly 10mm for the M x M - 20mm ......+ 2 x 150 = 320mm or about 13.6"

1 x http://www.frozencpu.com/products/image/10363/ex-tub-609.jpg/ex-tub-609/Bitspower_Dual_G14_Male_Male_Fitting_-_Matte_Black_BP-MBWP-C08.html?tl=c101s1354

2 x http://www.frozencpu.com/products/10371/ex-tub-618/Bitspower_G_14_Thread_Fitting_Extender_-_Matte_Black_BP-MBWP-C40.html?tl=c101s1354b145#options

Would be soooooo nice to be able to get an acetal res holder..... where the OD matched the res..... the ID matched the OD of the fittings and thickness matched the length

________________Fittings_____________________________________
|________________XXXXX___________________|__________________|
..<........................Reservoir.........................>...............^ < - Hold down screw


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> [...]
> Tye lack of solid dimensions is very frustrating ..... teh GFC+X carsd are bad enuff but the Photon for example is listed as 170 x 75 x 75 .... now if ya aver looked at the thing....it's a cyclibder mounted on a bracket..... will how could the width of the cyclinder be 75 and the depth of the cylinder + bracket also be 75 ????
> [...]


Assuming it's the same as my Photon 270 Res/D5 pump combo, which I believe it is, the res (glass and caps) is 73mm round, and the width of the res + the bracket (how far the res would stand off from whatever it's mounted to) is 87mm.

Mine's actually a bit wider than that at the bottom due to the pump, but that's measured at the top where I believe all the Photons are identical.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dsmwookie*
> 
> What are you guys using for fan controllers?
> 
> Having a hard time finding a quality unit that will fit behind the door.


I just ordered this ...

http://www.amazon.com/Lamptron-CW611-Cooling-Controller-Six2510-3pin/dp/B00CMQ4QI2/
http://www.overclock.net/t/1357575/introducing-the-lamptron-cw611-water-cooling-assisted-fan-controller/0_20
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spawne32*
> 
> http://hostthenpost.org
> http://hostthenpost.org
> http://hostthenpost.org


Though I may wind up regretting it if only because Lamptron has said the CW611 is only the first / most basic of several watercooling fan controllers they are coming out with before the end of the year.


----------



## Gunilla95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> I just ordered this ...
> 
> http://www.amazon.com/Lamptron-CW611-Cooling-Controller-Six2510-3pin/dp/B00CMQ4QI2/
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1357575/introducing-the-lamptron-cw611-water-cooling-assisted-fan-controller/0_20
> Though I may wind up regretting it if only because Lamptron has said the CW611 is only the first / most basic of several watercooling fan controllers they are coming out with before the end of the year.


Send pics when your about to test it seems lovely!


----------



## JackNaylorPE

The EVGA Classified is a great card .... the 14 phase VRM is one of the best on the market. The Asus DCII and the MSI Lightning also have great VRMs and a custom PCB. The Lghtning tops the EVGA Classified in a number of ways

- 19 phase VRM with more power headroom thanks in part to DrMOS 4
- LED indication of relative power levels
- Three BIOSs

In Guru3D's testing the Lightning OC'd a bit better than the Classy

Lightning gets the Core Clock up to 1178 MHz
Classified gets the Core Clock up 1133
Asus DCII comes in the middle w/ 1143,

But....the main consideration here is the Lightning is 11.6" long ... the Classified is 11.0 w/ WB ...... if you have been following the last few posts, both are problematic in the "fit" department, hence our interest in the Asus DCII.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Assuming it's the same as my Photon 270 Res/D5 pump combo, which I believe it is, the res (glass and caps) is 73mm round, and the width of the res + the bracket (how far the res would stand off from whatever it's mounted to) is 87mm.
> 
> Mine's actually a bit wider than that at the bottom due to the pump, but that's measured at the top where I believe all the Photons are identical.


Thanks.... 87 sure isn't 75









That would put it about 17mm into the GFX cards

I'm starting to seriously think about mounting it externally on the back of the case









A for the Lamptron, you'll prolly have an "uh oh" moment when ya realize, the Phanteks lever locks on the 5-1/4 bays won't let ya screw the thing in. No worries ... seueeze together to take off, screw it in and then snap back on.


----------



## ADragg

I didn't realize the Lightning and Classified were longer. I thought the DC II was the biggest 780 around. That's good, hopefully I can make it work with the res on the bracket since I'm only using a single card for right now. Then when I add a second 780 down the road, I can see what Jack ended up doing and others as well, and see what the best option is for SLI configs (since they interfere with the bracket). I have no problem grinding and hacking that bracket up to make something work, though. If it's almost fitting with two cards and can be fixed by hollowing out a little more room in the bracket, I'll do that. Repaint it black if I have to. I can make it look pretty clean but even a hack job would be hidden by the res anyway.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

I think I have it figured out ...... no "hacking" required.

Reservvoirs.pdf 175k .pdf file


With that hopefully out of the way, the next thing I wanna tackle is some lighting. I have done UV and Cathode before, never LED.

I was really just prepping an order for the Water Blocks.

*1. CPU LED* - I have used up 5 of my 6 LED connectors in the Enthoo and was gonna use No. 6 for the CPU block LED (3mm).

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/1805/ele-15/3mm_Red_LED.html?tl=g6c455s117

But I can't seem to find any wires w/ connectors matching those on the Enthoo. Closest I came was this .....

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/15113/ele-1045/Tailed_Amber_3mm_LED_w_2-Pin_Mobo_Header_Connector_LED-3T-A.html?tl=g6c455s1602

Suggestions ?

*2. LED strips* - My thought was to take two strips and run them vertically either side of the case window.....not on the door, that's a wire hassle but on the case frame either side. My problem (yet again) is the product literature offers no dimensions.....I "think this stiff is 10mm wide but Id really like it better w/ the black tape.

http://lighthouseleds.com/warm-soft-white-plcc2-3528-12v-led-strip.html

Looked great at $11.99 for 5meters.... but ships from China


----------



## jassilamba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> I think I have it figured out ...... no "hacking" required.
> 
> Reservvoirs.pdf 175k .pdf file
> 
> 
> With that hopefully out of the way, the next thing I wanna tackle is some lighting. I have done UV and Cathode before, never LED.
> 
> I was really just prepping an order for the Water Blocks.
> 
> *1. CPU LED* - I have used up 5 of my 6 LED connectors in the Enthoo and was gonna use No. 6 for the CPU block LED (3mm).
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/1805/ele-15/3mm_Red_LED.html?tl=g6c455s117
> 
> But I can't seem to find any wires w/ connectors matching those on the Enthoo. Closest I came was this .....
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/15113/ele-1045/Tailed_Amber_3mm_LED_w_2-Pin_Mobo_Header_Connector_LED-3T-A.html?tl=g6c455s1602
> 
> Suggestions ?
> 
> *2. LED strips* - My thought was to take two strips and run them vertically either side of the case window.....not on the door, that's a wire hassle but on the case frame either side. My problem (yet again) is the product literature offers no dimensions.....I "think this stiff is 10mm wide but Id really like it better w/ the black tape.
> 
> http://lighthouseleds.com/warm-soft-white-plcc2-3528-12v-led-strip.html
> 
> Looked great at $11.99 for 5meters.... but ships from China


3528 strips are normally 8mm wide and 5050 strips are on average 10mm wide.

I always use 5050 strips in mine.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> [...] *1. CPU LED* - I have used up 5 of my 6 LED connectors in the Enthoo and was gonna use No. 6 for the CPU block LED (3mm).
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/1805/ele-15/3mm_Red_LED.html?tl=g6c455s117
> 
> But I can't seem to find any wires w/ connectors matching those on the Enthoo. Closest I came was this .....
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/15113/ele-1045/Tailed_Amber_3mm_LED_w_2-Pin_Mobo_Header_Connector_LED-3T-A.html?tl=g6c455s1602
> 
> Suggestions ? [...]


http://www.ebay.com/sch/?_nkw=red%20prewired%203mm%20led

http://www.ebay.com/sch/?_nkw=waterproof%20jst%20connector%202-pin


----------



## Hereisphilly

So, this is meant to be the week for us UK guys, fingers crossed!
Anyone have any updates?


----------



## dsmwookie

Are you guys using the top and bottom radiators as intakes?


----------



## jassilamba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dsmwookie*
> 
> Are you guys using the top and bottom radiators as intakes?


I'm, all my fans except for the rear one are set for intake.

Positive Pressure = Rads get colder air compared to hot inside air, and case stays naturally dirt free. just my 4 cents (adjusted for inflation lol).


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dsmwookie*
> 
> Are you guys using the top and bottom radiators as intakes?


I'll be using the bottom 360 rad as an intake, and the top 480 rad as exhaust.

I'll also have four of the included 140mm fans as intakes (the 2 in the front and I'll move 2 to the right side panel) and the rear 140mm as exhaust to create a good crossflow of ambient air in the case and to make sure I have good amount of positive pressure to help prevent dust from being sucked in through the unfiltered back of the case.


----------



## Hereisphilly

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jassilamba*
> 
> I'm, all my fans except for the rear one are set for intake.
> 
> Positive Pressure = Rads get colder air compared to hot inside air, and case stays naturally dirt free. just my 4 cents (adjusted for inflation lol).


Is there not an issue with expelling all the air out with this config, or will it find its way out through all the gaps?
The config in my head that i had ready was 2 at the front and 2x2 in push pull in the base as intakes, then 3x2 at the top in push pull and 1 in the rear as exhaust, but i was concerned about the imbalance of more fans pulling air out than i had going in.

If you haven't had any issues as all of them set as intakes that thats what i'm going to go with


----------



## jassilamba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hereisphilly*
> 
> Is there not an issue with expelling all the air out with this config, *or will it find its way out through all the gaps?*
> The config in my head that i had ready was 2 at the front and 2x2 in push pull in the base as intakes, then 3x2 at the top in push pull and 1 in the rear as exhaust, but i was concerned about the imbalance of more fans pulling air out than i had going in.
> 
> If you haven't had any issues as all of them set as intakes that thats what i'm going to go with


That is the key, with positive pressure chances of you getting air in from all those gaps is very low. Perfect example is the back of the case, which if you think about is all ventilated with just one fan. WIth air being blown in from all directions in the case, the rear will not suck in any dust. That is still not an excuse to not clean inside the case regularly lol.


----------



## dsmwookie

That was my mindset as well to set everything to intake. I currently have an EX480 on the bottom, but it will be going up top and a EX280 will be here tomorrow for the bottom. Figured I would repurpose those 140mm fans to the 280mm radiator for the time being. I wanted to order some Montsa rads but so many are out of stock so these will be a place holder.

Is anyone else running a 2011 Gene board in their Primo? I was wondering if the heatsinks would clear a 60mm or Monsta on top because the heatsinks are so low.

Do you guys think it would be possible to put a thin 240 on the hard drive fan bracket if it was a very thing radiator? I know this seems overkill but I d eventually like to fill this thing up.

P.S. I really thought this fan controler complimented the build nicely:

http://www.overclock.net/t/1437644/lamptron-cm615-welcome-to-a-new-era-of-controllers/0_50


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Thx Jesse .... I did find them eventually but they varied somewhat ..... some 3528 were over 10mm but as you said most were 8 ish .... 5050 ones were 10-12 ......black tape ones were hard to find tho.... didn't find anything on this side of the pond.


----------



## jassilamba

Talking about fan controllers, I'm waiting for the Aquaero 6 to come out, but that lamptron unit looks great.


----------



## Hereisphilly

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jassilamba*
> 
> That is the key, with positive pressure chances of you getting air in from all those gaps is very low. Perfect example is the back of the case, which if you think about is all ventilated with just one fan. WIth air being blown in from all directions in the case, the rear will not suck in any dust. That is still not an excuse to not clean inside the case regularly lol.


Thanks! Completely forgot about the rear being full of holes, that should be plenty of ventilation to allow the air to escape!


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/sch/?_nkw=red%20prewired%203mm%20led
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/sch/?_nkw=waterproof%20jst%20connector%202-pin


Ah.... more stuff direct buy from China .....









Was looking for a source on this side of the pond. I had the LED covered with Frozen, but getting the JST connector was the issue....now that I know what it's called .... meybe I have better luck/ Muchos Grassyass

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> I'll be using the bottom 360 rad as an intake, and the top 480 rad as exhaust.
> 
> I'll also have four of the included 140mm fans as intakes (the 2 in the front and I'll move 2 to the right side panel) and the rear 140mm as exhaust to create a good crossflow of ambient air in the case and to make sure I have good amount of positive pressure to help prevent dust from being sucked in through the unfiltered back of the case.


On moving the top and bottom included fans to the right side panel .... if any wire sticks out past the plastic tabbies on the HD bays, the fans will eat it. If there was an award for "Mod with Most Rubber Bands" I'd win. Used the RB's across the two tabs to keep wires from unfurling. Will go away once make custom cables but works for now. I set my side panel fans as exhausts.... already have 12 fans blowing in and just the 1 going out.


----------



## jassilamba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> Ah.... more stuff direct buy from China .....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Was looking for a source on this side of the pond. I had the LED covered with Frozen, but getting the JST connector was the issue....now that I know what it's called .... meybe I have better luck/ Muchos Grassyass
> On moving the top and bottom included fans to the right side panel .... if any wire sticks out past the plastic tabbies on the HD bays, the fans will eat it. If there was an award for "Mod with Most Rubber Bands" I'd win. Used the RB's across the two tabs to keep wires from unfurling. Will go away once make custom cables but works for now. I set my side panel fans as exhausts.... already have 12 fans blowing in and just the 1 going out.


Sometimes the shipping from China aint that bad. But given the price difference, I don't mind waiting. Of Course depends on what item I'm getting and is the price difference worth the wait.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hereisphilly*
> 
> Thanks! Completely forgot about the rear being full of holes, that should be plenty of ventilation to allow the air to escape!


They also have ....

-string of holes above PSU in back
-string of holes along the top
-Some holes under the HD bays
-the unused 5.25 bays ..... if ya leave door open ...









I ordered the 5M roll from China .... thru Amazon tho .... feels a little safer knowing when I call to "fly off the handle', the person on the other end will be able to understand and enjoy my excellently chosen words and tirade







.... the Dad from "A Christmas Story" is my idol in this respect.

BTW .... I'm only using maybe 40" .... maybe I can trade the rest for bracket fabrication services !
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jassilamba*
> 
> Sometimes the shipping from China aint that bad. But given the price difference, I don't mind waiting. Of Course depends on what item I'm getting and is the price difference worth the wait.


Here we go 20 times the price at $2.50 for one .... but I only need one.

http://www.amazon.com/Factop-Female-Waterproof-Strips-Connector/dp/B00FWJAMBG/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1383589831&sr=8-2&keywords=jst+waterproof+connectors


----------



## Roxycon

Review by thinkcomputers


----------



## McSasquatch

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hereisphilly*
> 
> So, this is meant to be the week for us UK guys, fingers crossed!
> Anyone have any updates?


OcUK have added an ETA for this Friday on the Primo's store page.


----------



## Hereisphilly

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *McSasquatch*
> 
> OcUK have added an ETA for this Friday on the Primo's store page.


Awesome! Let's hope this date sticks!


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> Ah.... more stuff direct buy from China .....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> [...]


Yeah I know. FWIW I ordered 50 prewired blue leds, 50 prewired UV leds, and 50 of those JST led connectors off ebay from China (well, 2 were mainland & one was 'Hong Kong' as if that makes any diff) from 3 different sellers. Each was under $5 & free shipping. The first arrived exactly one week later, and the last took 11 days to arrive.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Yeah I went ahead and ordered the China one from Amazon for 11.95 for the 5 meter strip w/ black tape. At leas if something screws up, I will be able to complain to someone who understands English









I only have 1 female connector left unused on the Enthoo. Anything else I will connect to the Reeven so I can control brightness. I only have two controls being used on the Reeven.... Rad Fans and Case fans .... that uses up two channels....that leaves four left for lights or whatever


----------



## OutlawII

Here is my build,first waterloop for me works great very happy with the case also!


----------



## JackNaylorPE

I know some of you are using Aphacool rads and will be stuck with only have half as many screws as you need..... they give you enough for push or pull, not push pull unless for whatever reason you need two different length screws..... using the long ones will damage the rad in most instances if you don't have a grille or something to eat up the extra 5mm depth.

No US resellers carry the screws but ya can find them at Ace hardware

A. Euro folks can but off the Alphacool web site:

http://www.alphacool.com/product_info.php/info/p1240_screw-DIN-912-M3-x-30-hexagon-socket-black-nickel--4pcs-.html

B. Those of us on the other side of the pond here in US have two choices:

a) Go online and hope we guess the right thing
b) Run down to your local Ace hardware store and ask for Ace hardware part No. 71348=H (3mm x 30mm socket head 0.5 pitch) .... $0.96 each

I bought em at Ace cause until I got there, wasn't sure of the pitch. Knowing that, bet ya can find em cheaper online.

Yep ..... ya can get 100 for half what I paid for 12









http://www.amazon.com/M3-0-5-30mm-Plain-Socket-Screw/dp/B009JE7X6C


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Alphacool gives you exactly the right number of screws you need. The shorter ones are for 25mm fans mounted directly to the rad, and the longer ones are for going through the fans and the case into the rad. Already mounted mine no problems.

That said, my monsta came with copper screws and my xt45 came with black screws. I've already bought more screws for the top fans on the monsta which is going in the bottom as I do like the look of the black better, even if the copper is a nice touch.


----------



## bigmac11

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jassilamba*
> 
> That is the key, with positive pressure chances of you getting air in from all those gaps is very low. Perfect example is the back of the case, which if you think about is all ventilated with just one fan. WIth air being blown in from all directions in the case, the rear will not suck in any dust. That is still not an excuse to not clean inside the case regularly lol.
> [/img]


With all due respect, if you have a really hot VRM section or your pushing your memory sometimes it will overall serve you better to have to top rad exhaust. I know that its counter productive to your delta but sometimes it can mean a lot. When all the fans are set as intake sometimes there cannot be a proper air exchange to benefit the whole system.


----------



## jassilamba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bigmac11*
> 
> With all due respect, if you have a really hot VRM section or your pushing your memory sometimes it will overall serve you better to have to top rad exhaust. I know that its counter productive to your delta but sometimes it can mean a lot. When all the fans are set as intake sometimes there cannot be a proper air exchange to benefit the whole system.


That is a great point, and I should have added, that what I said is good for most builds, but individual builds have individual needs. In a perfect world people should adjust airflow as needed for what the application calls.

+1 for the great point mate.

Also for screws, here is the Amazon metric market place. - http://www.amazon.com/b/ref=amb_link_367518522_3?ie=UTF8&node=6185377011&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_s=hero-quick-promo&pf_rd_r=1R8J6FRS09TA1KXMVFQ4&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_p=1443706522&pf_rd_i=B00AM41BAC


----------



## bigmac11

Thank you for the rep and being cool







Great looking system you put together


----------



## ADragg

Alright guys, I think I have determined that with an average 60mm diameter tube res and a GPU of equal or lesser length to the Asus DC II GTX 780 **WITH WATER BLOCK THAT DOESN'T ADD LENGTH TO THE CARD!** (this does not apply to stock cards with stock heat sink that adds length to the card or any water block that adds extra length), you SHOULD be able to mount the res on the bracket and still have room for a card.

I HAVE NOT tested this get, but what I have done is taken the stock air cooler off my Asus GTX 780 and taken some measurements with the res bracket in place. What I saw was that with the stock cooler off and only the PCB in place, there's 3/8" between the back of the PCB of the card and the res bracket (mind you, this is with the plastic cover off the res bracket, so this IS utilizing the "indention" or "cut-out" in the bracket that makes extra room for long GPU's). Knowing that there was 3/8" (9.5mm for you guys that use that silly metric system







) between the card and the bracket, I then drew a center line down the middle of the bracket (vertically) and measured 30mm over (since the res is 60mm and should be centered on the bracket, so I measured 30mm from the center line), out into where the "cutout" in the bracket is, approximately where the card would be.

What I found was that the 60mm diameter res would definitely hang out into the cutout in the bracket a little bit (meaning that part of the depth of that cutout is useless since the card would hit the installed res before it hit the bracket) - BUT - it only hangs out about 1/4" (6.35mm) and therefore with the GPU and res installed on the bracket, there would be about an 1/8" of space between them. I realize that's very slim and in some cases they could pretty much be touching, or could potentially have a little more space between them. We'd just have to see. But an 1/8" is enough to make it worth trying, since most likely there will be at least 1/16" between them and you could also probably do a little shifting of the bracket and shifting of the res on it's mount to gain a tiny bit of extra room.

Obviously this will be a very tight fit, but I will be the guinea pig. I can't take any responsibility for anyone who decides to try this based on my calculations, especially since things can vary from case to case and card to card, etc. Tolerances may or may not be tight with this case. Every build is different, so some people may have more or less wiggle room between the card and res. I encourage anyone to perform their own calculations before trying this and remember that this only applies to SINGLE-GPU SETUPS. It won't work with SLI in most cases, without some modification at least.

This whole thing is dependent on a few things as well. This assumes that the reservoir mounts perfectly centered on the bracket. I don't know why that wouldn't be the case since I don't know why a res would mount offset. And the other more important thing is that this also assumes that the EK water block for the Asus GTX 780 doesn't hang past the PCB of the card at all. I think I heard that this is true, but I'm not positive.

My questions are:

-Does the EK water block for the Asus GTX 780 DC II add any extra length to the PCB, or can the length of the PCB represent the length of the overall card with the water block installed?

-Does a normal tube res mount centered on the bracket? The pre drilled holes are centered on the bracket and most res mounting clips would mount the res centered, right?

-I know there are res's with a greater diameter than 60mm, but is there such thing as a tube res that is a little more narrow, like a 55mm diameter res?

-I notice on the bracket there are rows of 3 holes. There are two outer holes that are spaced by about 71mm and one more hole centered between them. Is that standard spacing for the mounting hardware (clips) for tube res's? Or do they normally on have one hole and just use the center hole of the bracket for mounting? I assume they're standard holes on the bracket because they wouldn't have given us that many holes on the bracket if they were only there to screw on the little plastic cover plate.


----------



## Gunilla95

Hellu fellas.

So im about to buy this case.
But i have a question. Does a 400mm res fit beside an 780 ref version with a push pull top and a Monsa push pull in the buttom?

The size exact size of the bracket would also be enough as an anwser. dream would be to fit an 500mm in the case but thats just o much


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gunilla95*
> 
> Hellu fellas.
> 
> So im about to buy this case.
> But i have a question. Does a 400mm res fit beside an 780 ref version with a push pull top and a Monsa push pull in the buttom?
> 
> The size exact size of the bracket would also be enough as an anwser. dream would be to fit an 500mm in the case but thats just o much


You didn't give a lot of details, like what rad up top? Which 400mm reservoir?

A reference 780 (ex: EVGA 03G-P4-2781-KR) is 10.5" and the PCB runs the length of the card.
Full coverage waterblocks that fit it, like the XSPC Razor GTX Titan WB, are 267mm (10.5") long.

There is room for cards up to 277mm (10.9") long to fit with the reservoir bracket in place - plastic cover removed.

Soooo, the card will fit with the res bracket in place - plastic cover removed.

The reservoir bracket - plastic cover removed - is 63mm (2.5") wide at its narrowest point - at the GPU card recess - and butts right up against the ledge at the bottom of the 5.25" bay area on its right side.

To explain it in a different way. There is 350mm (13.78") of total space for cards with the reservoir bracket completely removed.
So, with a reference GTX 780 @ 267mm (10.5") that leaves 83mm (3.26") of space left to accommodate a tube res mounted to the bracket.

The bracket's mounting holes are centered 39mm from the ledge at the bottom of the 5.25" bay area, so using the mounting holes leaves room for a max reservoir width of 78mm (3.07").

There is 575mm (22.65") of inside space from the floor of the case to the top. (the pull fans above a top-mounted rad would sit above that).

An Alphacool monsta is 85mm + 50mm for 25mm thick fans in push-pull = 135mm (5.32")

575mm - 135mm = 440mm (17.32")

That's 440mm of space for a res and the thickness of the top rad + push fans.

*There will NOT be room for a 400mm reservoir between a monsta on the bottom and any thickness of rad in the top, both in push-pull*, and that's even if your 400mm res is actually ONLY 400mm long. The few I looked at were longer than 400mm and it seemed to be hard to find actual length dimensions of those res's I looked at with the top & bottom caps installed, plus if you needed to have any fittings/tubes coming out of the top/bottom you'd need to account for that too.

If, for example, you wanted an XT45 up top (45mm + 25mm for the push fan = 70mm) and a monsta on the bottom in push-pull (85mm + 50mm = 135mm), that would leave 370mm (14.56") of space for a tube reservoir mounted in between them.

A UT60 up top in the same scenario would leave you 355mm (13.97").

You could get a Primochill 400mm CRT reservoir (Compression Tube Reservoir) with the low profile base and cut the acrylic res tube to whatever length you wanted. Unlike other reservoirs, it uses compression fittings top and bottom instead of threads - the o-rings seal on the sides of the tube, not the end - so it is possible that the res tube can be cut to length, though it looks like if you weren't careful it'd be easy to ruin it trying.


----------



## Gunilla95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> You didn't give a lot of details, like what rad up top? Which 400mm reservoir?
> 
> A reference 780 (ex: EVGA 03G-P4-2781-KR) is 10.5" and the PCB runs the length of the card.
> Full coverage waterblocks that fit it, like the XSPC Razor GTX Titan WB, are 267mm (10.5") long.
> 
> There is room for cards up to 277mm (10.9") long to fit with the reservoir bracket in place - plastic cover removed.
> 
> Soooo, the card will fit with the res bracket in place - plastic cover removed.
> 
> The reservoir bracket - plastic cover removed - is 63mm (2.5") wide at its narrowest point - at the GPU card recess - and butts right up against the ledge at the bottom of the 5.25" bay area on its right side.
> To explain it in a different way. There is 350mm (13.78") of total space for cards with the reservoir bracket completely removed.
> So, a reference GTX 780 - 267mm (10.5") there is 83mm (3.26") of space left to accommodate a tube res mounted to the bracket.
> The bracket's mounting holes are centered 39mm from the ledge at the bottom of the 5.25" bay area, so using the mounting holes leaves room for a max reservoir width of 78mm (3.07").
> 
> There is 575mm (22.65") of inside space from the floor of the case to the top. (the pull fans above a top-mounted rad would sit above that).
> 
> A monsta 85mm + 50mm for push-pull fans = 135mm (5.32")
> 
> 575mm - 135mm = 440mm (17.32")
> 
> That's 440mm of space for a res and the thickness of the top rad + push fans.
> 
> There will NOT be room for a 400mm reservoir between a monsta on the bottom and any thickness of rad in the top, both in push-pull, and that's even if your 400mm res is actually ONLY 400mm long.
> 
> You could get a Primochill 400mm CRT reservoir (Compression Tube Reservoir) with the low profile base and cut the acrylic res tube to whatever length you wanted. Unlike other reservoirs, it uses compression fittings top and bottom instead of threads - the o-rings seal on the sides of the tube, not the end - so it is possible that the res tube can be cut to length.


Thank you for you respons. okey i have right now a 360 i want to put in the top, if i remember right its a 2 cm one. so really slim. and i dont got money to buy another one.

So i cant go with a res when i got the bracket on? with he plastic cover off then offcorse.
I got a Phobya 250mm right now, http://www.aquatuning.co.uk/product_info.php/info/p9256_Phobya-Balancer-250-black-nickel.html
really want to have that god damn bracket.

Thank you again for the good info


----------



## jassilamba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bigmac11*
> 
> Thank you for the rep and being cool
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Great looking system you put together


Thanks mate, and why won't I be cool. We at the zoo believe that egos should stay at home. A great point deserves a rep IMO.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OutlawII*
> 
> Here is my build,first waterloop for me works great very happy with the case also!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Nice job!


----------



## OutlawII

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> [quote name="OutlawII" url="/t/1418637/phanteks-enthoo-primo-owners-club/1060_20#post_21125107"]Here is my build,first waterloop for me works great very happy with the case also!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> [IMG[/URL] ALT=""]http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/1730988/width/350/height/700[/IMG]
> 
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/1730988/width/350/height/700[/IMG][/SPOILER][/quote]Nice


Nice job! :thumb:[/QUOTE]
Thanks much appreciated!

Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Alphacool gives you exactly the right number of screws you need. The shorter ones are for 25mm fans mounted directly to the rad, and the longer ones are for going through the fans and the case into the rad. Already mounted mine no problems.
> 
> That said, my monsta came with copper screws and my xt45 came with black screws. I've already bought more screws for the top fans on the monsta which is going in the bottom as I do like the look of the black better, even if the copper is a nice touch.


UT60 came with Black, XT45 came with copper. I'll trade ya the blacks for the coppers









I am glad it somehow worked for you (are you perhaps using fan grilles ?) ..... but a half dozen threads here on OCN, my own measurements and even the Alphacool web site say different. Alphacool's site says the longer ones are for when using fan grilles and such. But the Enthoo doesn't have anything 5mm thick...the plate with the mounting slots is about 0.5mm. Here's one of the half dozen threads I found looking for screws, 4 of them were on OCN.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1413568/problem-with-screws/

The two different screws are 5 mm difference in length. If the 30mm works in direct contact fan to rad, then you need a 5mm thick something in the middle .... I have nothing that thick in the Enthoo so danged if I ain't curious what you got and I don't







. I did consider adding grilles (may have to for the side ones if my rubber bands give out) but didn't wanna spend $50 when cheap screws would work.

I still can't figure how ya did it though







. I can't make the math work. Caliper Measurements:

Distance Between Rad Outside Surface and Screw Protector = 4mm (might be 5 hard to measure as threading makes metal protrude inside)

-Top Rad Push
Fan Thickness - 26mm (Screws not affected by anti-vibration pads on one side on Phanteks Fans as they countersunk)
Thickness of metal where mounting slots are = 0.5mm (estimated - didn't wanna take apart again to measure)
Total = 26.5mm ...... So the 30mm screws went 3.5mm into the 4mm space before the screw protector which jives with what I saw during assembly.

-Top Rad Pull
Fan Thickness - 26mm (Screws not affected by anti-vibration pads on one side)
Total = 26.0mm ...... So the 30mm screws will go 4mm into the 4mm space and just touch the screw protector.

If I used the 35mm screws in either case, tightening them would leave me with 8.5 - 9.0 mm of screw left and the screw protector only provides 4 maybe 5

-Bottom Rad Push
Fan Thickness - 27mm (Screws now affected by pads on both sides)
Thickness of metal where mounting slots are = < 0.5mm (estimated, didn't disassemble again)
Thickness of Washer I need to keep screw heads from going thru slt holes = 1mm
Thickness of Screw Head as not countersunk due to washer = 2mm
Total = 30.5mm ...... So here, the 30mm screws don't work, too short ..... however the 35 were too long, so had to go back out and buy another set of 1mm washers.
With two washers, I got to 31.5, leaving me with 3.5mm of screw in the 4mm screw protector space.

-Bottom Rad Pull
Same as Top Rad Pull
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bigmac11*
> 
> With all due respect, if you have a really hot VRM section or your pushing your memory sometimes it will overall serve you better to have to top rad exhaust. I know that its counter productive to your delta but sometimes it can mean a lot. When all the fans are set as intake sometimes there cannot be a proper air exchange to benefit the whole system.


I assume you are referring to localized air eddies as opposed to strictly volume or throughput. This is a point often gone unconsidered so glad you brought up.

From a volume standpoint, Air In = Air Out ..... if not your case would implode / explode









With one 480 blowing in and one blowing out, the effectiveness of your top rad is obviously reduced as the air exhaust from that bottom rad will greatly reduce the efficiency of the top rad having a very significant impact on your cooling potential. OTOH, with 8 fans blowing down and 8 blowing up, against each other, the various current eddies that from may result in "dead spots" . So having top rad fans blowing out as you suggest means a pretty much even air flow front to back so every place should get some circulation. Still even that flow might not be enough if front / rear fans steal away your current. Some solutions.....

1. Antec "Spot Cool" has done nice things for me in past in this respect.
2. I have also adds fans behind drive cages tho these work best for cooling between 2 cards in SLI
2. Add MoBo MOFSET and SRM water blocks.
3. M6F

I haven't heard of any RAM cooling issues at least not with DDR3 and normal "outside the lab bench" usages.

While we on the subject, off cooling, I have been thinking of a way to force air oiu and theu the back side of a MoBo maybe using on of Prolimatech;s 15mm thick Vortex Fans
http://www.prolimatech.com/en/products/detail.asp?id=1906&page=1


----------



## bond32

Who has mounted a 360 or 480 in the bottom? What mods were needed - did you just shave off the side panel at the bottom? I just now noticed that mine may not fit...

Edit: according to this, it should fit... Guess I will find out later this week.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ADragg*
> 
> I HAVE NOT tested this get, but what I have done is taken the stock air cooler off my Asus GTX 780 and taken some measurements with the res bracket in place. What I saw was that with the stock cooler off and only the PCB in place, there's 3/8" between the back of the PCB of the card and the res bracket (mind you, this is with the plastic cover off the res bracket, so this IS utilizing the "indention" or "cut-out" in the bracket that makes extra room for long GPU's).


I think I know answer but for clarification, you are measuring the Asus DCII and not the reference version which is shorter, correct ? Oh.... had to come backl to ask the obvious question.....if it is the 780 DCII just what are the dimensions ?
Quote:


> It won't work with SLI in most cases, without some modification at least.


Well Yes and No, I think..... Two cards with no slot in between should work according to Phanteks..... if ya have 3 slot spacing, then no .... that's why I haven't delved into it
Quote:


> -Does the EK water block for the Asus GTX 780 DC II add any extra length to the PCB, or can the length of the PCB represent the length of the overall card with the water block installed?


The WBs are smaller in length than the card.
Quote:


> -Does a normal tube res mount centered on the bracket? The pre drilled holes are centered on the bracket and most res mounting clips would mount the res centered, right?


If yours is different, you could drill more holes
Quote:


> -I know there are res's with a greater diameter than 60mm, but is there such thing as a tube res that is a little more narrow, like a 55mm diameter res?


Yes phobya Balance, Alphacool Coolplex, FrozenQ
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/13184/ex-res-283/Alphacool_Cape_Corp_Coolplex_Pro_25_LT_-_250mm.html
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/10950/ex-res-217/FrozenQ_PC_Mods_Liquid_Fusion_V_Series_2nd_Generation_Reservoir_400mm_-_UV_Cathode_-_UV_Green_Helix.html?tl=g30c97s165
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/17012/ex-res-424/FrozenQ_PC_Mods_UV_Meteor_Light_Limited_Edition_Reservoir_-_UV_Warp_Drive.html?tl=g30c97s165
Quote:


> -I notice on the bracket there are rows of 3 holes. There are two outer holes that are spaced by about 71mm and one more hole centered between them. Is that standard spacing for the mounting hardware (clips) for tube res's? Or do they normally on have one hole and just use the center hole of the bracket for mounting? I assume they're standard holes on the bracket because they wouldn't have given us that many holes on the bracket if they were only there to screw on the little plastic cover plate.


Sure wud be nice if manufacturers gave dimensions huh ?









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> A reference 780 (ex: EVGA 03G-P4-2781-KR) is 10.5" and the PCB runs the length of the card.
> Full coverage waterblocks that fit it, like the XSPC Razor GTX Titan WB, are 267mm (10.5") long.


Now why isn't it that easy to get info on a DCII version









http://www.overclock.net/t/1439278/asus-gtx-780-dimensions
25 views no answers









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> Who has mounted a 360 or 480 in the bottom? What mods were needed - did you just shave off the side panel at the bottom? I just now noticed that mine may not fit...
> 
> ]Who has mounted a 360 or 480 in the bottom? What mods were needed - did you just shave off the side panel at the bottom? I just now noticed that mine may not fit...


Jesse put a 480 Monsta in....see the video .... they also noted that some 140s fit and some don't ....145mm fits, 146 doesn't

http://themodzoo.com/forum/index.php?/page/articles.html/_/reviews/cases/phanteks-enthoo-primo-full-tower-review-r67


----------



## mixman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> Who has mounted a 360 or 480 in the bottom? What mods were needed - did you just shave off the side panel at the bottom? I just now noticed that mine may not fit...
> 
> Edit: according to this, it should fit... Guess I will find out later this week.


My 480mm Monsta fit just right. You just have to use some twists and turns to get it in there with a full set of fans.

By the way, where are the extra PWM boards for sale? I think I want to go all PWM for my fans in the future.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mixman*
> 
> My 480mm Monsta fit just right. You just have to use some twists and turns to get it in there with a full set of fans.
> 
> By the way, where are the extra PWM boards for sale? I think I want to go all PWM for my fans in the future.


IIRC, Brian (@ Phanteks) said they'd be available around January.

BTW, SilentPCReview.com reviewed the Phanteks Fan on the PH-TC14-PE and it topped their chartes.... As far as I can tell, it's the same fan as in the Enthoo with different mounting.

http://www.silentpcreview.com/article1345-page4.html

http://www.silentpcreview.com/article1345-page7.html
Quote:


> The Phanteks PH-F140HP/TS is the clear winner in every respect. It edged out the new Noctuas every step of the way, delivering the best overall results of any fan we've tested thus far. To top it off, it had cleanest, smoothest sound of all the new fans in this roundup. If we had to start from scratch, this might be our new reference model.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> Now why isn't it that easy to get info on a DCII version
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1439278/asus-gtx-780-dimensions
> 25 views no answers
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> [...]


I googled https://www.google.com/search?q=ASUS+GTX+780+DCII+dimensions

First result was "ASUS GTX 780 DirectCU II Review And Gallery At Ocaholic" to which there was a link to this ...


----------



## Terminus14

I've been following this thread since it opened and I feel like this has been mentioned but I can't find it.

How much room is behind the door of the Enthoo? More importantly, do you think the Lamptron FC5 v2 would fit with the door closed?

Also, has anyone figured out whether or not it's possible to mod that door so it hinges on the right?


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Terminus14*
> 
> I've been following this thread since it opened and I feel like this has been mentioned but I can't find it.
> 
> How much room is behind the door of the Enthoo? More importantly, do you think the Lamptron FC5 v2 would fit with the door closed?
> 
> Also, has anyone figured out whether or not it's possible to mod that door so it hinges on the right?


There is only about 5mm between 5.25 grills and inside of door.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Terminus14*
> 
> I've been following this thread since it opened and I feel like this has been mentioned but I can't find it.
> 
> How much room is behind the door of the Enthoo? More importantly, do you think the Lamptron FC5 v2 would fit with the door closed?
> 
> Also, has anyone figured out whether or not it's possible to mod that door so it hinges on the right?


1. The door is 15mm thick.... the door thickness is 10.1mm thick (14.9 at edges) .... so ya have 4.9mm

2. The door hinge will not be switched easily .... my suggestion for Enthoo II is that they make the front in 2 pieces so that you could take it off and turn it upside down.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> I googled https://www.google.com/search?q=ASUS+GTX+780+DCII+dimensions
> 
> First result was "ASUS GTX 780 DirectCU II Review And Gallery At Ocaholic" to which there was a link to this ...


Damn, you're my hero today ... I yahoo'd and googled my fingers off to no avail. Now all I need is the thickness w/ backplate installed and I'm good to go.

Having now received my *"engineering sample"* of the 780 Ti DCII, we see the dilemma faced by SLI users with our PCI-3 slots have a 3-slot spacing.





Who's gonna go to lunch while I stay and watch their CNC shop to make sure no one makes unauthorized use if their equipment ?


----------



## mixman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Terminus14*
> 
> I've been following this thread since it opened and I feel like this has been mentioned but I can't find it.
> 
> How much room is behind the door of the Enthoo? More importantly, do you think the Lamptron FC5 v2 would fit with the door closed?
> 
> Also, has anyone figured out whether or not it's possible to mod that door so it hinges on the right?


It would fit if you recess it in the 5.25" slot. I will probably either try that or the Lamptron FC6. Don't really need 30w for 8 Yate Loons.


----------



## Roxycon

free shipping from phanteksusa


----------



## chrisnyc75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roxycon*
> 
> free shipping from phanteksusa


Wow, that's a nice deal. Even newegg isn't offering free shipping on the Enthoo, it's so heavy.


----------



## Gabrielzm

[


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



quote name="JackNaylorPE" url="/t/1418637/phanteks-enthoo-primo-owners-club/1090#post_21136668"]
1. The door is 15mm thick.... the door thickness is 10.1mm thick (14.9 at edges) .... so ya have 4.9mm

2. The door hinge will not be switched easily .... my suggestion for Enthoo II is that they make the front in 2 pieces so that you could take it off and turn it upside down.
Damn, you're my hero today ... I yahoo'd and googled my fingers off to no avail. Now all I need is the thickness w/ backplate installed and I'm good to go.

Having now received my *"engineering sample"* of the 780 Ti DCII, we see the dilemma faced by SLI users with our PCI-3 slots have a 3-slot spacing.





Who's gonna go to lunch while I stay and watch their CNC shop to make sure no one makes unauthorized use if their equipment ?[/quote


]

A 27 in length card (aka. titan) would fit in that third slot?


----------



## bond32

Got the EX480 in today. Redid a few things in my loop. I think I need more cooling for my cpu...


Had a few complications. First, since I wanted the bottom fans as push, when I started them up the one that is on the bottom support was touching the crossmember. Just needed to bend the metal downwards a bit, seems goodnow. Also had to use the phanteks screws otherwise iI couldn't get the dust filters in.

Once I get more money I'll purchase the GPU blocks.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> A 27 in length card (aka. titan) would fit in that third slot?


I don't think 27" would fit in the Enthoo packing box









27cm is 10.6 in .... the 780 Ti "engineering sample" I used was 10.5"

Anyone else have trouble with the lil front door covering the fans..... pushed the little arrows earlier to open it and now it won't stay on when I put it back. Not "clicking" any more.... anyone have any suggested repair tips ?


----------



## skupples

Some one was looking for a way to keep a second psu running after shutdown a few weeks ago, i linked to them ADD2PSU not understanding what they were actually looking for... I think it was JackNaylor... WELL! ADD2PSU has finally designed the unit you are looking for...



"Choose to delay the second power supply turning off between 5 seconds up to 9 minutes"

The little white thing is a nob, it allows you to set the time you want the second slave unit to run for after shutdown.

Hope this helps!


----------



## Bludge

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> Got the EX480 in today. Redid a few things in my loop. I think I need more cooling for my cpu...


that fan, behind your lightnings, is that a standard mounting spot?


----------



## doyll

Nice one skupples.


----------



## carmas

I cannot wait anymore to receive the Enthoo Primo that I preordered in July/August. In the shop it is listed 'in stock' since yesterday, but they haven't sent it yet.









By the way, has anybody modded yet the side reinforcement panel hiding the HDD cages? I would like to remove it (at least partially) together with the 5.25 bays, but it could be not really feasible. Anyway, mod-planning is postponed to when I receive the case.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bludge*
> 
> that fan, behind your lightnings, is that a standard mounting spot?


I'm not sure what you mean by 'a standard mounting spot', but that side of each of the HDD cages has mounting holes for a 120mm fan.

From the owner's manual:


----------



## Hereisphilly

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *carmas*
> 
> I cannot wait anymore to receive the Enthoo Primo that I preordered in July/August. In the shop it is listed 'in stock' since yesterday, but they haven't sent it yet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> By the way, has anybody modded yet the side reinforcement panel hiding the HDD cages? I would like to remove it (at least partially) together with the 5.25 bays, but it could be not really feasible. Anyway, mod-planning is postponed to when I receive the case.


Is that caseking? Just seen that they have it in stock, if it's true it means the cases are in Europe, so us UK buyers can't be far off now!


----------



## carmas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hereisphilly*
> 
> Is that caseking? Just seen that they have it in stock, if it's true it means the cases are in Europe, so us UK buyers can't be far off now!


Yes, I've ordere it from caseking, and it is in stock since yesterday.


----------



## shiv15

I happned to notice this comment on their facebook page for anyone interested in a white version of the case.


----------



## smokedawg

I ordered mine from caseking.de aswell and it's on it's way currently. Will probably get here tomorrow.


----------



## shiv15

I am looking to do a build in this case, but I can't come up with a good theme. I wanted to get a ROG Z87 board, but my current build is already all red and I am looking for a change.

I've been throwing around the idea of the ASUS gold board with purple, or blue tubing. Another idea is one of the yellow boards (MSI mpower?) and blue.. (Michigan Football theme







).

Anyone have any thoughts?


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Some one was looking for a way to keep a second psu running after shutdown a few weeks ago, i linked to them ADD2PSU not understanding what they were actually looking for... I think it was JackNaylor... WELL! ADD2PSU has finally designed the unit you are looking for...
> 
> "Choose to delay the second power supply turning off between 5 seconds up to 9 minutes"
> 
> The little white thing is a nob, it allows you to set the time you want the second slave unit to run for after shutdown.
> 
> Hope this helps!


Well apparently I wasn't the only one with this "crazy" idea as they said a lot of their customers were looking for this and they did confirm their reasoning is that the PC components actually get hotter after shutdown ..... so glad to see that it's out there. Unfortunately, 1) I already bought the larger PSU and 2) their thing uses a 24 pin PSU plug to work and I was basically using a notebook charger (again which I bought anyway for use during filling loops and.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bludge*
> 
> that fan, behind your lightnings, is that a standard mounting spot?


Page 18 of the manual says 2 fans can be mounted on HD cages and there are moutnting screws.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shiv15*
> 
> I am looking to do a build in this case, but I can't come up with a good theme. I wanted to get a ROG Z87 board, but my current build is already all red and I am looking for a change.
> 
> I've been throwing around the idea of the ASUS gold board with purple, or blue tubing. Another idea is one of the yellow boards (MSI mpower?) and blue.. (Michigan Football theme
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ).
> 
> Anyone have any thoughts?


I know I have seen one....was done with black and gold sleeving which looked great .... just can't remember where.... meybe MDPC or Lutro) sotes.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> I don't think 27" would fit in the Enthoo packing box
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 27cm is 10.6 in .... the 780 Ti "engineering sample" I used was 10.5"
> 
> Anyone else have trouble with the lil front door covering the fans..... pushed the little arrows earlier to open it and now it won't stay on when I put it back. Not "clicking" any more.... anyone have any suggested repair tips ?


Nha.... I guess I will have to take it to a metal shop to cut it then...Was wondering in doing anyway to place a fill port up in the first quarter of the top of the case. That would be a nice addition for E. Primo II, a pair of 1/2 holes drill and closed with rubber seals on top and bottom so anyone can place a fill port up and a drain at the bottom (even those using different sizes of tubbing since adapter can be bought easily).

Cheers and thks for the info.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Nha.... I guess I will have to take it to a metal shop to cut it then...Was wondering in doing anyway to place a fill port up in the first quarter of the top of the case. That would be a nice addition for E. Primo II, a pair of 1/2 holes drill and closed with rubber seals on top and bottom so anyone can place a fill port up and a drain at the bottom (even those using different sizes of tubbing since adapter can be bought easily).
> 
> Cheers and thks for the info.


Fill port .... if ya using a 420 or smaller I got ya covered

Fill Port Mount.pdf 22k .pdf file


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> Fill port .... if ya using a 420 or smaller I got ya covered
> 
> Fill Port Mount.pdf 22k .pdf file


Thks Brother. Still waiting for my case to come from Netherlands but in principle it would be a 280 mm rad bottom, 2 x 240 mm front and 480 xt45 top. I am considering the pros and cons of putting the 480 mm rad bottom and the 280 mm top but I think I will have less rad space that way since the 480 mm bottom will interfere with the two 240 mm (front and side).


----------



## McSasquatch

Apologies if it's a repost, but here's a review of the Primo from Benchmark Reviews.


----------



## 6steven9

Blah I'm still waiting for this case to be available at some Canaidian e-retailer my buid is on hold till I can grab one







I wish I was American







I don't understand why i can't order from newegg.com


----------



## Roxycon

think that review is one of the better examples of techies needing to read up on the product before posting anything about it


----------



## doyll

Surely Phanteks Enthoo Primo review from Benchmark Reviews by by Akim Green is joking with their placement of PSU.


If not they really are inept at reviewing the Enthoo Primo.


----------



## carmas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Surely Phanteks Enthoo Primo review from Benchmark Reviews by by Akim Green is joking with their placement of PSU.
> 
> 
> If not they really are inept at reviewing the Enthoo Primo.


facepalm


----------



## Hooy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Surely Phanteks Enthoo Primo review from Benchmark Reviews by by Akim Green is joking with their placement of PSU.
> 
> 
> If not they really are inept at reviewing the Enthoo Primo.


Hey I won't bash em - I've been wondering exactly what that would look like with a Seasonic 1000W with its fancy fan graphic.


----------



## 6steven9

Lol damn these are "professional" reviewers? laugh


----------



## Hooy

Here is another one from Cyber Power PC. It doesn't look bad but i want my fans!


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Thks Brother. Still waiting for my case to come from Netherlands but in principle it would be a 280 mm rad bottom, 2 x 240 mm front and 480 xt45 top. I am considering the pros and cons of putting the 480 mm rad bottom and the 280 mm top but I think I will have less rad space that way since the 480 mm bottom will interfere with the two 240 mm (front and side).


I went with the 420 up top cause it has slightly more surface area and also less dead space from (3) 140mm fan motors vs (4) 120mm .... ya can also pull the 420 up a bit towards the front and that exposes the two top ports on ya rad...... convenient location for fills and air bleeding.


----------



## whyscotty

Titans new home

Hope you like


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/13/5wd9.jpg/

Uploaded with ImageShack.us

http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/812/tb0y.jpg/

Uploaded with ImageShack.us

http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/811/f44w.jpg/

Uploaded with ImageShack.us

http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/600/ffpv.jpg/

Uploaded with ImageShack.us

http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/853/yju4.jpg/

Uploaded with ImageShack.us

http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/51/1j25.jpg/

Uploaded with ImageShack.us

http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/708/hnkq.jpg/

Uploaded with ImageShack.us


----------



## doyll

A beautiful build. Really is a work of functional art. All it needs is a matching castor base with red fenders on the casters








Just paint the fenders with a matching red paint.


----------



## 6steven9

Damn that's sex wish I had the know how to do a custom loop when i get mine i'll be just air cooling it with the h100i for the cpu 1 day when i'm rich though....................


----------



## bond32

1 D5 pushing all that business??!


----------



## Roxycon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> 1 D5 pushing all that business??!


He's using the dual d5 version, but do you think two d5's not enough for that set up?


----------



## bond32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roxycon*
> 
> He's using the dual d5 version, but do you think two d5's not enough for that set up?


I just saw his bay res, looks like mine which is the single D5. 2 are more than plenty.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *whyscotty*
> 
> Titans new home
> 
> Hope you like


Ya gonna put the Phanteks drive clips back on ? I did after installing screws, they did fit back on


----------



## Roxycon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> I just saw his bay res, looks like mine which is the single D5. 2 are more than plenty.


Ah, settles my soul.. Have the exact same unit and still hoping i can pull a parallel cpu gpu loop with almost same rads as whyscotty


----------



## bond32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roxycon*
> 
> Ah, settles my soul.. Have the exact same unit and still hoping i can pull a parallel cpu gpu loop with almost same rads as whyscotty


I have used my single D5 to push flow to 3x7950 blocks, cpu block, and 3 radiators before... It is plenty strong.


----------



## Roxycon

Yh but all the blocks will be set up in a parallel, both cpu and gpu's.. From the little info i could find about it, i should need a pretty decent amount of power in the pumps to make it efficient for the most restrictive of the blocks







guess only my outside-of-the-case testing will tell


----------



## dsmwookie

EX 280 and some Tygon Nonprene showed up today. Might be time to place an order with Lutros.

Hoping these Phanteks 140mm fans work out well.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Just don't mix the new ones ya bought with the ones that came in the case ..... the ones ya bought are thicker due to the rubber anti vibration pads

I put the case ones from top and bottom on side door and all new up top and bottom so rad mounts wud be even.

*EDIT*: Well looks like I am back on track .... have 1st GFX card and WB on way (next Thursday arrival .... newegg getting slow) .... all sleeving parts (except for 4 floppy style pins .... bought 2 connectors, 1 set of pins ... duh) arrive on Monday ..... *AND* .... most important found a shop who will fab my custom mounts and black powder coat them for me on Tuesday....

here's the scary part .... water cooling parts inventory lists 106 individually ordered items (well say 95 as HS listed as 12LF) with 60 more to go ... the only biggie in there was the 40 bags (4 per bag) of ATX / EPS / PCIE) pins, everything else 1 -3 of each....overall 59 different items....and I left out stuff I didn't buy thru mail like rad screws....Oooh also doesn't include LED related stuff

Pump related Items (3)
Reservoir related Items (4)
Radiator related Items (6)
Waterblock related items (7)
Tubing and Fittings related items (13)
Cables and Sleeving related items (18)
Tool Related Items (8)

When's the next WCA meeting ? I gotta start practicing the 12 steps !


----------



## Hereisphilly

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *whyscotty*
> 
> Titans new home
> 
> Hope you like
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/13/5wd9.jpg/
> 
> Uploaded with ImageShack.us
> 
> http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/812/tb0y.jpg/
> 
> Uploaded with ImageShack.us
> 
> http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/811/f44w.jpg/
> 
> Uploaded with ImageShack.us
> 
> http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/600/ffpv.jpg/
> 
> Uploaded with ImageShack.us
> 
> http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/853/yju4.jpg/
> 
> Uploaded with ImageShack.us
> 
> http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/51/1j25.jpg/
> 
> Uploaded with ImageShack.us
> 
> http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/708/hnkq.jpg/
> 
> Uploaded with ImageShack.us


Wow, what an awesome build! And great pictures too! What camera did you use?

Nice to know too that the hole from the rear through to the odd bays actually works out well, plenty of space for tubing!


----------



## chrisnyc75

Important question: ROG themed build (re: dark red & black) in the Enthoo Primo with uv cathodes + red LED accents on XSPC blocks (gpu & cpu) --should I use UV red (re: orange) tubing, or white?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *whyscotty*
> 
> Titans new home
> 
> Hope you like
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/13/5wd9.jpg/
> 
> Uploaded with ImageShack.us
> 
> http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/812/tb0y.jpg/
> 
> Uploaded with ImageShack.us
> 
> http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/811/f44w.jpg/
> 
> Uploaded with ImageShack.us
> 
> http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/600/ffpv.jpg/
> 
> Uploaded with ImageShack.us
> 
> http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/853/yju4.jpg/
> 
> Uploaded with ImageShack.us
> 
> http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/51/1j25.jpg/
> 
> Uploaded with ImageShack.us
> 
> http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/708/hnkq.jpg/
> 
> Uploaded with ImageShack.us


Looks like you have a very similar build to mine. Do you use UV cathodes/LEDs in it? I'm concerned that the "uv red" (re: pumpkin orange) tubing won't look right agains the red XSPC blocks and ROG hardware. Love your build though, I think I'll build one exactly like it this weekend. lol


----------



## whyscotty

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> Ya gonna put the Phanteks drive clips back on ? I did after installing screws, they did fit back on


Didn't put them back on as didn't see the point

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> A beautiful build. Really is a work of functional art. All it needs is a matching castor base with red fenders on the casters
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just paint the fenders with a matching red paint.


Thanks - will be contacting you ref base unit










Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hereisphilly*
> 
> Wow, what an awesome build! And great pictures too! What camera did you use?
> 
> Nice to know too that the hole from the rear through to the odd bays actually works out well, plenty of space for tubing!


Thanks for the kind words - Pentax K-5 DSLR camera

Was a dream to work with - plenty room for anything really

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chrisnyc75*
> 
> Important question: ROG themed build (re: dark red & black) in the Enthoo Primo with uv cathodes + red LED accents on XSPC blocks (gpu & cpu) --should I use UV red (re: orange) tubing, or white?
> Looks like you have a very similar build to mine. Do you use UV cathodes/LEDs in it? I'm concerned that the "uv red" (re: pumpkin orange) tubing won't look right agains the red XSPC blocks and ROG hardware. Love your build though, I think I'll build one exactly like it this weekend. lol


Thank you

They only leds that I have working are the ones on the Sli bridge and the Memory


----------



## Hereisphilly

Just spoke to OCUK and there has been a small delay! :-(
Monday is the new date!


----------



## jassilamba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *whyscotty*
> 
> Titans new home
> 
> Hope you like
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/13/5wd9.jpg/
> 
> Uploaded with ImageShack.us
> 
> http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/812/tb0y.jpg/
> 
> Uploaded with ImageShack.us
> 
> http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/811/f44w.jpg/
> 
> Uploaded with ImageShack.us
> 
> http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/600/ffpv.jpg/
> 
> Uploaded with ImageShack.us
> 
> http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/853/yju4.jpg/
> 
> Uploaded with ImageShack.us
> 
> http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/51/1j25.jpg/
> 
> Uploaded with ImageShack.us
> 
> http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/708/hnkq.jpg/
> 
> Uploaded with ImageShack.us


Nice build mate. Love me some clean and simple builds.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hereisphilly*
> 
> Just spoke to OCUK and there has been a small delay! :-(
> Monday is the new date!


Bummer.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chrisnyc75*
> 
> Important question: ROG themed build (re: dark red & black) in the Enthoo Primo with uv cathodes + red LED accents on XSPC blocks (gpu & cpu) --should I use UV red (re: orange) tubing, or white?


I'm getting away from UV in this build ..... just haven't been that satisfied with it last couple of builds, reason being it draws the eye to the UV stuff at the expense of other stuff and the M6F is just too dang gorgeous to have attention drawn away from it. So I'm going with red LED on the CPU block but white LEDs to strictly light the case (with no glowing) and clear acrylic with Mayems pastel red.

But as you suggested, it needs something to break up the red / black, red black..... I'm using a white accent on some of the cables, thinking of adding red / white pinstipe to the black rads and considering the new white EK reservoir for this purpose.

So yes, I think a bit of white tubing would be great ..... I'll send you a PM of one done in white .... OTOH....if ya have a lot of tubing will too much white might be .... well ..... too much







?.


----------



## McSasquatch

Saw this via Phantek's FB page - win a Primo (and other Phanteks goodies) courtesy of Kitguru. Winning it might be quicker than waiting for it to appear in your region's retail channels.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> I'm getting away from UV in this build ..... just haven't been that satisfied with it last couple of builds, reason being it draws the eye to the UV stuff at the expense of other stuff and the M6F is just too dang gorgeous to have attention drawn away from it. So I'm going with red LED on the CPU block but white LEDs to strictly light the case (with no glowing) and clear acrylic with Mayems pastel red.
> 
> But as you suggested, it needs something to break up the red / black, red black..... I'm using a white accent on some of the cables, thinking of adding red / white pinstipe to the black rads and considering the new white EK reservoir for this purpose.


Wonder what gold instead of white would do as an accent to red/black?


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *whyscotty*
> 
> Didn't put them back on as didn't see the point


Looks Pertier when door is off ..... mine hasn't been on since the 26th









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Wonder what gold instead of white would do as an accent to red/black?


Looks great on the TUF series like Sabertooth .... I like the white tho as the MoBo accents are white ..... PCIE slot and RAM slot clippies .... phanteks fan blades


----------



## chrisnyc75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> I'm getting away from UV in this build ..... just haven't been that satisfied with it last couple of builds, reason being it draws the eye to the UV stuff at the expense of other stuff and the M6F is just too dang gorgeous to have attention drawn away from it. So I'm going with red LED on the CPU block but white LEDs to strictly light the case (with no glowing) and clear acrylic with Mayems pastel red.
> 
> But as you suggested, it needs something to break up the red / black, red black..... I'm using a white accent on some of the cables, thinking of adding red / white pinstipe to the black rads and considering the new white EK reservoir for this purpose.
> 
> So yes, I think a bit of white tubing would be great ..... I'll send you a PM of one done in white .... OTOH....if ya have a lot of tubing will too much white might be .... well ..... too much
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ?.


Yeah, I'm leaning toward white tubing, too, except I already bought Masterkleer "UV Dark Red", which, it turnst out, is actually more of a pumpkin orange in uv light. I don't think I like the look of the orange glow of the tubing against the red LEDs I'm using in my XSPC blocks (cpu & gpu). In uv light, I figure white tubing should either glow extremely bright white or turn purple-ish, either of which I think might work really well in my build.

I just don't want to finally get this project done only to realize I hate the color of my tubing. lol After putting so much energy into this, that would suck.

If I did go with white, that would make the entire build black with red accents, and the watercooling bright white so it stands out (which would also match my Noiseblocker fans on the bottom rad, which you'll see clearly through the panel window). I think that might work well.

Doyll, I think gold accents would be beautiful -- gold compression fittings & adapters would look really classy. I think yellow tubing might look out of place, though.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> Looks great on the TUF series like Sabertooth .... I like the white tho as the MoBo accents are white ..... PCIE slot and RAM slot clippies .... phanteks fan blades


Yeah, that's true.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chrisnyc75*
> 
> I just don't want to finally get this project done only to realize I hate the color of my tubing. lol After putting so much energy into this, that would suck.
> 
> If I did go with white, that would make the entire build black with red accents, and the watercooling bright white so it stands out (which would also match my Noiseblocker fans on the bottom rad, which you'll see clearly through the panel window). I think that might work well.


Well, maybe just install the lights and insert a piece of tubing laying on top of the rad to see what it looks like before connecting anything.

Got an e-mail from NB that the have 140mm coming out soon .... wonder how they will compare with the Phanteks considering the Phanteks took top spot here

http://www.silentpcreview.com/article1345-page7.html


----------



## chrisnyc75

I picked up the Noiseblockers on the recomendation of one of the wc guys on the ROG forum and martinsliquidlab.org, but mostly because I wanted something a little more eye-catching on the bottom rad than plain old black fans, but not as bright as LED fans. They're pricey, but they're reported to work really well with thick rads (although I don't know how they stack up against Phanteks).

Martinsliquidlab gave them top billing alongside Scythe: http://martinsliquidlab.org/2013/05/07/fan-testing-round-12/


----------



## JackNaylorPE

The NBs are excellent fans ..... I wanted to evaluate their 140s and much to my dismay they didn't have them so I e-mailed them. They said they 'in the works" but could not disclose a release date or any technical data .... I was hoping for an 1800 rpm E-loop, either PWM or one that could be controlled by the phanteks PCB.. If they turn out to be 1250 rpm, I'd have a hard time dumping the $18 phanteks for new NBs but I wuda been real interested in 1800 rpm jobs, provided i could run them at 900-1200.


----------



## carmas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Wonder what gold instead of white would do as an accent to red/black?


That is actually my plan for my Enthoo build, although I might prefer amber to gold. I am thinking of amber lighting and tubing (or coolant), dark red fittings. Sleeving will be black, dark red ad sand from MDPC. |
The thing I'll have to experiment once I get the parts is the fans. I've ordered some SP-120 high performance to do some tests. I was thinking of dying the propeller red and the ring golden/amber, but I am afraid that matching all the colours will be a real pita.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *carmas*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Wonder what gold instead of white would do as an accent to red/black?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That is actually my plan for my Enthoo build, although I might prefer amber to gold. I am thinking of amber lighting and tubing (or coolant), dark red fittings. Sleeving will be black, dark red ad sand from MDPC. |
> The thing I'll have to experiment once I get the parts is the fans. I've ordered some SP-120 high performance to do some tests. I was thinking of dying the propeller red and the ring golden/amber, but I am afraid that matching all the colours will be a real pita.
Click to expand...

I'm experimenting with 5050 RGB SMD LED strip because they claim over 1,000,000 can be made. Can see 3 lights in each chip (red, blue & green) when light level is low. 5050 gets it's name from LED chip size; 5.0x5.0mm. 3528 RGB is 3 individual chips 3.5x2.8mm and cannot make blended colors.. only red, green & blue. I found this video tutorial useful





Matching color with penetrating dye is hard to do.. Spray dye like auto detailers use on leather/vinyl gives same color as on bottle/can. I think it's better than paint.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/MAGIX-GRISON-150ml-LEATHER-VINYL-DYE-SPRAY-ALL-COLOURS-Shoes-Boots-Car-Seats-/260907493330


----------



## Gunilla95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> I'm experimenting with 5050 RGB SMD LED strip because they claim over 1,000,000 can be made. Can see 3 lights in each chip (red, blue & green) when light level is low. 5050 gets it's name from LED chip size; 5.0x5.0mm. 3528 RGB is 3 individual chips 3.5x2.8mm and cannot make blended colors.. only red, green & blue. I found this video tutorial useful
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Matching color with penetrating dye is hard to do.. Spray dye like auto detailers use on leather/vinyl gives same color as on bottle/can. I think it's better than paint.
> http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/MAGIX-GRISON-150ml-LEATHER-VINYL-DYE-SPRAY-ALL-COLOURS-Shoes-Boots-Car-Seats-/260907493330


I have also bought the 5m version of the 5050 RGB SMD LED stripe. with a ir remote.
i have been experimenting with it and it can run on a standard molex. and as soon I got home the new sata conectors i will try run them on sata as well.
other idea is using the led stripe line on the phantek PCB but i dont thing it got enough power for it sins the 5050 got 2 amp in each colour at peak.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gunilla95*
> 
> I have also bought the 5m version of the 5050 RGB SMD LED stripe. with a ir remote.
> i have been experimenting with it and it can run on a standard molex. and as soon I got home the new sata conectors i will try run them on sata as well.
> other idea is using the led stripe line on the phantek PCB but i dont thing it got enough power for it sins the 5050 got 2 amp in each colour at peak.


I got the 6amp power supply (& 44 key remote) so lights (white) can be used while working on system when PSU is off. Still need to get some 4-wire flat cable to use between light strips in case. Originally wanted to use connectors but haven't found them cheap enough. And soldering wires to strips is no big deal.


----------



## carmas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Matching color with penetrating dye is hard to do.. Spray dye like auto detailers use on leather/vinyl gives same color as on bottle/can. I think it's better than paint.
> http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/MAGIX-GRISON-150ml-LEATHER-VINYL-DYE-SPRAY-ALL-COLOURS-Shoes-Boots-Car-Seats-/260907493330


You are absolutely right, that's why I'll only test it with a single fan, using this method
http://www.overclock.net/t/1244335/sleeving-custom-color-dye/120_40#post_17733983
The difficulty part is that I cannot test with many fans otherwise it would get too expensive.

But before trying, I'll look also in the spray dye you suggested. Thank you for the link









By the way, the case just arrived when I was writing this comment


----------



## doyll

Great news on case arriving!

The Primo is positioned with back of case in bottom of box. Easy to remove is open bottom of box with flaps out flat on floor and lift / slide box up and off.

So what to you think of Primo?









Edit: Thanks for the link to sleeving and dying.


----------



## flaminghomer

I received my case today, too. Everything works fine except the fan hub seems to be broken. If i connect the fans directly to the mainboard, they work just fine, but if I connect the pwm cable nothing happens. Is it even possible that i connected it wrong?
Doesn't make a difference whether i connect the molex cable or not...


----------



## bond32

Are you connecting the fan hub to an actual "PWM" header? Because many 4 pin headers aren't actually PWM controlled.


----------



## Roxycon

have you set a fan curve/rpm in bios?


----------



## flaminghomer

I tried SYSFAN 1 and SYSFAN 4 (MSI Z77 MPOWER). Adjusting fan speed in bios or with speedfan doesn't help.









[edit]
okay, connecting the fan hub to the CPUFAN works. why!? do the SYSFAN ports not support PWM? the manual says the do...
[edit]


----------



## doyll

They either do not support PWM or are not set to support PWM.. My guess is they do not support PWM.

If you need PWM control fromCPU fan header for PWM fans there are several PWM splitters / hubs with PSU power connectors. Swiftech 8-way PWM hub and Gelid PWM splitter are my favorites. You can hook a couple Gelid style splitter together for 7 fans.. or 3 together for 10 fans. 10 is about the limit of PWM signal strength.. not strong enough to support 10 on some motherboards.


----------



## Rollergold

So jealous of those builds. I could get the case shipped up here to calgary via Frozen CPU but the $148 shipping charge is not cool bro


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rollergold*
> 
> So jealous of those builds. I could get the case shipped up here to calgary via Frozen CPU but the $148 shipping charge is not cool bro


Hopefully Newegg.ca will have stock soon.


----------



## bond32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *flaminghomer*
> 
> I tried SYSFAN 1 and SYSFAN 4 (MSI Z77 MPOWER). Adjusting fan speed in bios or with speedfan doesn't help.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> [edit]
> okay, connecting the fan hub to the CPUFAN works. why!? do the SYSFAN ports not support PWM? the manual says the do...
> [edit]


The SYSFAN headers support PWM fans by voltage control. If you look in the manual you will see the 4 pins are no different from the 3 pin layout and the 4th is a +5 volt. The CPU headers are generally the only actual PWM control.

I was proven wrong on my ASUS board, had the maximus 6 and I swore that all the headers were actual PWM control, as it is a selling point of that board plus you would think at the price of it, they would have all the bells and whistles. However that's not the case, but they do control PWM fans they just use voltage.

And the splitters you linked only work for PWM fans. You can use them on voltage control fans but the voltage fans will run at full speed as there is no voltage regulation there.


----------



## flaminghomer

I connected the fan hub to the CPUFAN header and the cpu fans to the fan hub. Didn't find a better solution...


----------



## dsmwookie

Any suggestions on bleeding the system set up like this?

480mm up top and 280mm on bottom.

http://s14.photobucket.com/user/dsmwookie/media/20131110_113621_zps302d79e9.jpg.html


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *flaminghomer*
> 
> I tried SYSFAN 1 and SYSFAN 4 (MSI Z77 MPOWER). Adjusting fan speed in bios or with speedfan doesn't help.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> [edit]
> okay, connecting the fan hub to the CPUFAN works. why!? do the SYSFAN ports not support PWM? the manual says the do...
> [edit]


Yes, on the M6F for example the two CPU fans will do fan control from BIOS, the CGA fans will not and the OPT ones will do fan control in response to thermal sensors.

ModMy Toys also has a PWM splitter but all these 4 pin PWN splitters are not the same as the Phanteks one which uses 3 pin fans.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dsmwookie*
> 
> Any suggestions on bleeding the system set up like this?
> 
> 480mm up top and 280mm on bottom.


1. Fill tube on res, with 90 degree bend out thru top 5.25 bay.

2. Drill holes thru fan mount plate on top exposing top entry points on rad (no drilling req'd w/a 420)

Here's what it looks like on a 420 .... for a 480 would be about an inch further back requiring the drilling


----------



## Scorpion49

I am really impressed by this case, I somehow missed looking at it (I saw the news thread when it was released). I am ordering one tonight, going back under water and this thing holds radiators for days... super excited now.


----------



## shiv15

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> Yes, on the M6F for example the two CPU fans will do fan control from BIOS, the CGA fans will not and the OPT ones will do fan control in response to thermal sensors.
> 
> ModMy Toys also has a PWM splitter but all these 4 pin PWN splitters are not the same as the Phanteks one which uses 3 pin fans.
> 1. Fill tube on res, with 90 degree bend out thru top 5.25 bay.
> 
> 2. Drill holes thru fan mount plate on top exposing top entry points on rad (no drilling req'd w/a 420)
> 
> Here's what it looks like on a 420 .... for a 480 would be about an inch further back requiring the drilling


Thanks for this info. Definitely convinced me to go with a 420 vs 480 up top!


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scorpion49*
> 
> I am really impressed by this case, I somehow missed looking at it (I saw the news thread when it was released). I am ordering one tonight, going back under water and this thing holds radiators for days... super excited now.


It is a very impressive case.
A couple of the best reviews are Bill and Jesse's video review





and Jesse's written review and build
http://themodzoo.com/forum/index.php?/topic/854-case-review-phanteks-enthoo-primo-full-tower-review/

Jesse's FAQ and tutorials are very informative.
http://themodzoo.com/forum/index.php?/page/articles.html/_/reviews/cases/phanteks-enthoo-primo-full-tower-review-r67?pg=8


----------



## mixman

I just switched my rad fans to the pwm controller and the case fans to my Lamptron Touch. I would prefer to have total pwm control of all my fans. Don't really want to wait until January for the extra hubs to go on sale. So, what is the best way for me to control my case fans on pwm too, without having to buy 6 pwm fans and something like the swiftech pwm hub?


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mixman*
> 
> I just switched my rad fans to the pwm controller and the case fans to my Lamptron Touch. I would prefer to have total pwm control of all my fans. Don't really want to wait until January for the extra hubs to go on sale. So, what is the best way for me to control my case fans on pwm too, without having to buy 6 pwm fans and something like the swiftech pwm hub?


How many fans total do you need to control?


----------



## chrisnyc75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mixman*
> 
> I just switched my rad fans to the pwm controller and the case fans to my Lamptron Touch. I would prefer to have total pwm control of all my fans. Don't really want to wait until January for the extra hubs to go on sale. So, what is the best way for me to control my case fans on pwm too, without having to buy 6 pwm fans and something like the swiftech pwm hub?


I don't think there is one, that's why people here are so anxious for Phanteks to start selling their pwm hub as an accessory.

As far as I know you only have 3 options:

1 - buy pwm fans.
2 - use the Phanteks pwm hub.
3 - use a fan controller.


----------



## doyll

Indeed.
Phanteks supply a PWM to voltage adaptor with their PH-TC14PE coolers.
Nanoxia market one with speed adjustment but it's powered by PWM header on mobo.

http://www.itsmart.gr/product_info.php?products_id=4274&language=en

Sunbeamtech's Rheosmart controllers might be worth a look.
http://www.sunbeamtech.com/PRODUCTS/Rheosmart/6.html


----------



## Scorpion49

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> It is a very impressive case.
> A couple of the best reviews are Bill and Jesse's video review
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and Jesse's written review and build
> http://themodzoo.com/forum/index.php?/topic/854-case-review-phanteks-enthoo-primo-full-tower-review/
> 
> Jesse's FAQ and tutorials are very informative.
> http://themodzoo.com/forum/index.php?/page/articles.html/_/reviews/cases/phanteks-enthoo-primo-full-tower-review-r67?pg=8


Yeah I actually watched those last night when I was considering the case. I was about to pull the trigger and then I saw a post from a few days ago saying there will be a white one. Any idea how far out it is?


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scorpion49*
> 
> Yeah I actually watched those last night when I was considering the case. I was about to pull the trigger and then I saw a post from a few days ago saying there will be a white one. Any idea how far out it is?


I'm not holding my breath for white. I'm sure Phanteks is working hard to keep up with demand for the Enthoo Primo as it is... not to mention the Primo accessories many are waiting for like fan hub, pump mount, etc.


----------



## chrisnyc75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> I'm not holding my breath for white. I'm sure Phanteks is working hard to keep up with demand for the Enthoo Primo as it is... not to mention the Primo accessories many are waiting for like fan hub, pump mount, etc.


Yeah, it took quite some time, and several delays, to get the Enthoo Primo in its current form to market, I wouldn't think we'd see a revision or another color any time soon. One thing you can be sure of, to Phanteks' credit, is that they won't rush it to market without being thoroughly convinced it's ready for public consumption. So you can rely on product quality once it's available, but you may have to wait a while to get there.

In the meantime, black is a great choice....or a custom paint job is always an option.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chrisnyc75*
> 
> Yeah, it took quite some time, and several delays, to get the Enthoo Primo in its current form to market, I wouldn't think we'd see a revision or another color any time soon. One thing you can be sure of, to Phanteks' credit, is that they won't rush it to market without being thoroughly convinced it's ready for public consumption. So you can rely on product quality once it's available, but you may have to wait a while to get there.
> 
> In the meantime, black is a great choice....or a custom paint job is always an option.


There are a few custom paint jobs out there. This rendition is no painted. Hoping for images any day now.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scorpion49*
> 
> I am really impressed by this case, I somehow missed looking at it (I saw the news thread when it was released). I am ordering one tonight, going back under water and this thing holds radiators for days... super excited now.


There's tons of info in this thread as to what works, what fits, dimensions what to watch out for ... if ya can't find it just yell
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shiv15*
> 
> Thanks for this info. Definitely convinced me to go with a 420 vs 480 up top!


Well the 420 also has a slightly better cooling area (58,800 vs 57,600) and a relatively smaller dead spot under the fan motor.


----------



## Scorpion49

Thanks guys, I'll just grab the black. If white comes out later I might switch haha. I really like white cases, and it would go well with my rampage IV extreme.


----------



## jassilamba

Anyone want the Titans from my build? I'm about ready to tear down the build and start working on a mod that I have in mind.


----------



## chrisnyc75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*


It should be illegal to do that to the Enthoo Primo. lol


----------



## Gunilla95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jassilamba*
> 
> Anyone want the Titans from my build? I'm about ready to tear down the build and start working on a mod that I have in mind.


What do you want for them?


----------



## jassilamba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gunilla95*
> 
> What do you want for them?


$1500.00 for both (with water block and back plates already installed).

or should I ask for more. lol


----------



## Gunilla95

the enthoo primo was released in sweden today. just waiting for my paycheck ;D
Got a monster 280 for the buttom and a 360 for the top. problem is i need all HDD spots so no 480 for me =(


----------



## mixman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *mixman*
> 
> I just switched my rad fans to the pwm controller and the case fans to my Lamptron Touch. I would prefer to have total pwm control of all my fans. Don't really want to wait until January for the extra hubs to go on sale. So, what is the best way for me to control my case fans on pwm too, without having to buy 6 pwm fans and something like the swiftech pwm hub?
> 
> 
> 
> How many fans total do you need to control?
Click to expand...

14 fans total.........8 rad fans and 6 case fans. I believe the fan controller can only handle 11 fans, so I don't want to push it.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mixman*
> 
> 14 fans total.........8 rad fans and 6 case fans. I believe the fan controller can only handle 11 fans, so I don't want to push it.


I hear ya. It's probably same to run them all but without knowing what the load rating of hub is... wish Phanteks would tell us what it is.


----------



## mixman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chrisnyc75*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *mixman*
> 
> I just switched my rad fans to the pwm controller and the case fans to my Lamptron Touch. I would prefer to have total pwm control of all my fans. Don't really want to wait until January for the extra hubs to go on sale. So, what is the best way for me to control my case fans on pwm too, without having to buy 6 pwm fans and something like the swiftech pwm hub?
> 
> 
> 
> I don't think there is one, that's why people here are so anxious for Phanteks to start selling their pwm hub as an accessory.
> 
> As far as I know you only have 3 options:
> 
> 1 - buy pwm fans.
> 2 - use the Phanteks pwm hub.
> 3 - use a fan controller.
Click to expand...

I am already using a fan controller and it does do some automatic fan control, but it does not do it in a linear fashion. $100 or so for 6 140mm Phanteks PWM fans doesn't sound that appealing either. I guess I just have to wait, unless somebody who is not using it will sell me their controller!


----------



## Scorpion49

Just ordered mine off of the egg, should only be 1 day shipping since I live 40 minutes from their distro center. Can't wait to get this thing and start planning my loop.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scorpion49*
> 
> Just ordered mine off of the egg, should only be 1 day shipping since I live 40 minutes from their distro center. Can't wait to get this thing and start planning my loop.


AFAIK, they are only shipping from the Baldwin Park, CA distribution center .....at least they were in October .... I ordered 5 fans....4 came from NJ but they ran outta stock, came in stock next day and last one for from Baldwin Park. The 780 I grabbed after the price berak also came from Baldwin Park.

And if you're 40 minutes from there, I'd be in the parking lot already


----------



## Scorpion49

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> AFAIK, they are only shipping from the Baldwin Park, CA distribution center .....at least they were in October .... I ordered 5 fans....4 came from NJ but they ran outta stock, came in stock next day and last one for from Baldwin Park. The 780 I grabbed after the price berak also came from Baldwin Park.
> 
> And if you're 40 minutes from there, I'd be in the parking lot already


Heh, I'm patient enough to wait until tomorrow. I would rather wait one day than deal with LA traffic trying to get over there.


----------



## Roxycon

Could someone give me a photo of the top of the hdd area with both cages out and the other side of it aka bottom of odd mounting place?


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roxycon*
> 
> Could someone give me a photo of the top of the hdd area with both cages out and the other side of it aka bottom of odd mounting place?


cages in (from right side of case:



cages removed (from right side of case):



cages removed (from motherboard area):


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jassilamba*
> 
> $1500.00 for both (with water block and back plates already installed).


Oh man I wish I wasn't still pouring everything I can scrape up each week into this new build.


----------



## Gabrielzm

oh well...My case is in transit via TNT post from Netherlands...Probably will take a month to get my hands on it since will go through customs and who knows how long that is going to take.... Literally a dozen new GT AP-15 (plus the 4 I already have) are here waiting to go push-pull on all rads except the 280 mm that I will probably use the Enthoo Primo 140 mm fans on it. That's ok between my baby girl and work not much time to rebuild my rig right now, but I swear the parts sitting here are very lonely without the Enthoo (2 PWM D5, ek black rubber tubing, another ek reservoir and top, and all those rads and ap-15....).










cheers


----------



## McSasquatch

Still showing as pre-order in UK stores. Scan are giving an ETA of Nov 20th? Anyone heard anything to the contrary?


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

I'm still waiting on my pre-ordered Rampage IV Black Edition mobo, which isn't due to start shipping until Nov 19 (if they don't move the date back again), and even then I'm still one paycheck away from ordering a 4930K and another 2 paydays after that to finish getting 64GB ram & a HDD or two and then that ought to be everything left that I need to begin my build.

Has anyone had any trouble getting their 24-pin cable to fit behind the res bracket?


----------



## Roxycon

Dosent look lika a pita to install a drainport there, thanks for the pics









Waiting for four 45 degree fittings from frozen, 12 fans and the enthoo is in oslo atm, sadly not in house







but i think i can start my build log by tomorrow and set up my hardware for sale, finally get back some money


----------



## Hereisphilly

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *McSasquatch*
> 
> Still showing as pre-order in UK stores. Scan are giving an ETA of Nov 20th? Anyone heard anything to the contrary?


Scan have had that date up for weeks now, in the description they list it as 2nd week of November.
On Friday ocuk told me Monday, which clearly wasnt the case, so going to ring up today and find out some more if I can


----------



## ADragg

So I'm getting ready to order my entire CPU/GPU loop build for my Enthoo and have gone back and forth many times on color scheme. I'm thinking about doing white tubing with gold Monsoon fittings and MDPC tan/sand colored sleeving (the tan sleeving will tie into the gold fittings like the PC on the EKWB homepage and will also tie into my Asus Z87 Pro mono), and then a clear tube 250 tube res with Mayhems Pastel Blue Berry coolant or else Pastel Sunset Yellow. I'll be using an XSPC Raystorm CPU block and an acrylic EK water block for the GTX 780. So it will mostly be a clean/classy build with the plain white tubing and gold fittings (plus tan sleeve) but will have the Pastel Blue Berry filled tank, CPU block, and GPU block. Either that or the yellow.

What do you guys think in general and which should I go with between Blue Berry or Sunset Yellow? I kind of wanted to go flashy with clear tubing to show off whatever color of coolant throughout the system, but I'm thinking white and gold with the hints of coolant just showing up in the blocks and res might be nice.


----------



## Hereisphilly

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ADragg*
> 
> So I'm getting ready to order my entire CPU/GPU loop build for my Enthoo and have gone back and forth many times on color scheme. I'm thinking about doing white tubing with gold Monsoon fittings and MDPC tan/sand colored sleeving (the tan sleeving will tie into the gold fittings like the PC on the EKWB homepage and will also tie into my Asus Z87 Pro mono), and then a clear tube 250 tube res with Mayhems Pastel Blue Berry coolant or else Pastel Sunset Yellow. I'll be using an XSPC Raystorm CPU block and an acrylic EK water block for the GTX 780. So it will mostly be a clean/classy build with the plain white tubing and gold fittings (plus tan sleeve) but will have the Pastel Blue Berry filled tank, CPU block, and GPU block. Either that or the yellow.
> 
> What do you guys think in general and which should I go with between Blue Berry or Sunset Yellow? I kind of wanted to go flashy with clear tubing to show off whatever color of coolant throughout the system, but I'm thinking white and gold with the hints of coolant just showing up in the blocks and res might be nice.


That sounds really good! The white and gold fittings that complement the mobo i think will work really well.
I think going with the blue coolant rather than the yellow is a better shout. Yellow and gold are too close together on the colour specturm and you wont get the contrast (i think) you are after
Cant wait for some pictures when you finish!


----------



## Roxycon




----------



## doyll

Congrats Roxycon!









Looks even better standing up than on it's side.









Edit:
Have mine too!


----------



## McSasquatch

Congrats all - very jealous!

doyll's reminds me of a sandcrawler.







Looks good though man.


----------



## doyll

Where can I get castor tracks?









Looks like this without case on it. Makes it much easier to move around.


----------



## Hereisphilly

Ocuk have no ETA yet! It's just down as overdue on their system so it could be anytime or not for a while :-(


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> [...] Have mine too!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Where can I get castor tracks?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Looks like this without case on it. Makes it much easier to move around.


It does look very nice, like it's part of the case meant to be like that. Are you exhausting out the bottom of your case?

I couldn't run my rig on something like that though because my bottom rad is intake and it would just suck up dust off the floor. Where I live it's dry and dusty year round. We run a heavy-duty (~$500) Rabbit Air purification system and it only helps slightly. It wouldn't matter how clean we try to keep the floors if I kept an open bottom on a case that close to the floor my rads would be completely clogged in days to where no air at all would pass through.

As it is even with computers kept up on a desktop, all my intakes filtered, and most of the fans as intakes for excessive positive pressure, I still have to blow every computer out once a month or so with the air compressor and even doing it that often sometimes my air-cooler heatsinks are nearly completely blocked up. Every single time when I first hit a case with air the first words out of my mouth and anyone else who is watching is always 'Oh my God!' as the huge dust cloud escapes. I'm always amazed at how much dust accumulates and that I've somehow as yet managed to not have any component overheating/failure due to it all.


----------



## Hereisphilly

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> It does look very nice, like it's part of the case meant to be like that. Are you exhausting out the bottom of your case?
> 
> I couldn't run my rig on something like that though because my bottom rad is intake and it would just suck up dust off the floor. Where I live it's dry and dusty year round. We run a heavy-duty (~$500) Rabbit Air purification system and it only helps slightly. It wouldn't matter how clean we try to keep the floors if I kept an open bottom on a case that close to the floor my rads would be completely clogged in days to where no air at all would pass through.
> 
> As it is even with computers kept up on a desktop, all my intakes filtered, and most of the fans as intakes for excessive positive pressure, I still have to blow every computer out once a month or so with the air compressor and even doing it that often sometimes my air-cooler heatsinks are nearly completely blocked up. Every single time when I first hit a case with air the first words out of my mouth and anyone else who is watching is always 'Oh my God!' as the huge dust cloud escapes. I'm always amazed at how much dust accumulates and that I've somehow as yet managed to not have any component overheating/failure due to it all.


Wow, you must have quite a lot of dust around your part of the world!

My FT02 had 3 180mm inakes in the floor, and the 3 filters did a great job of keeping dust out, even with having 2 cats.
I never had to clean anything out, but the case was on the carpeted floor rather than hard wood, so that might have helped


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> It does look very nice, like it's part of the case meant to be like that. Are you exhausting out the bottom of your case?
> 
> I couldn't run my rig on something like that though because my bottom rad is intake and it would just suck up dust off the floor. Where I live it's dry and dusty year round. We run a heavy-duty (~$500) Rabbit Air purification system and it only helps slightly. It wouldn't matter how clean we try to keep the floors if I kept an open bottom on a case that close to the floor my rads would be completely clogged in days to where no air at all would pass through.
> 
> As it is even with computers kept up on a desktop, all my intakes filtered, and most of the fans as intakes for excessive positive pressure, I still have to blow every computer out once a month or so with the air compressor and even doing it that often sometimes my air-cooler heatsinks are nearly completely blocked up. Every single time when I first hit a case with air the first words out of my mouth and anyone else who is watching is always 'Oh my God!' as the huge dust cloud escapes. I'm always amazed at how much dust accumulates and that I've somehow as yet managed to not have any component overheating/failure due to it all.


Thanks!

Bottom will be intake. Dust isn't much of a problem here.


----------



## chrisnyc75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> It does look very nice, like it's part of the case meant to be like that. Are you exhausting out the bottom of your case?
> 
> I couldn't run my rig on something like that though because my bottom rad is intake and it would just suck up dust off the floor. Where I live it's dry and dusty year round. We run a heavy-duty (~$500) Rabbit Air purification system and it only helps slightly. It wouldn't matter how clean we try to keep the floors if I kept an open bottom on a case that close to the floor my rads would be completely clogged in days to where no air at all would pass through.
> 
> As it is even with computers kept up on a desktop, all my intakes filtered, and most of the fans as intakes for excessive positive pressure, I still have to blow every computer out once a month or so with the air compressor and even doing it that often sometimes my air-cooler heatsinks are nearly completely blocked up. Every single time when I first hit a case with air the first words out of my mouth and anyone else who is watching is always 'Oh my God!' as the huge dust cloud escapes. I'm always amazed at how much dust accumulates and that I've somehow as yet managed to not have any component overheating/failure due to it all.


Nevada?


----------



## KingJames

Can I join the club?














I really need a better camera. This phone isn't doing it justice.


----------



## Roxycon

Finally starting to testfit inside the enthoo and the first thing i checked was if i could install anothe 360 rad in the middle.. And with a monsta and a xt45 spacing is perfect with two sets of fans inside, so looks like ill have to get two compressions extra


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Wanted to throw this out there.....

In plant design, it's SOP to use flexible couplings at all pumps to take care of any alignment issues and isolate the pump's vibration from the rest of the system. We know this carries over to WC as peeps often hear the rattling in bay reservoirs. With the 35x2 being a bit of a behemoth, I had to design and have mounting adapter plate (being powder coated tomorrow) fabricated to hold the thing . So taking the wisdom of generations of plant design engineers before me, vibration isolation of the pump seems like it's worthy of attention when using rigid tuning......don't wanna shake anything loose do we now









With the 280 Rad at the bottom being the first thing downstream of the pump, the "visible tube run" is about a 3 inches, about 1/2" inch of which will be visible between the Rad and the vertical plate w/ Phanteks logo on it. A 15mm fitting extender eliminates the visible part. It's the inlet that concerns me more as it's harder to hide. About a 6" horizontal run maybe 1.75" horizontal visible ... plus the vertical. I could do the vertical drop and 1st 2" in rigid and then use the flex, but with no support at the transition point, the whole run will vibrate.

Best idea I have had so far is to come outta back of res thru the res bracket (18mm hole req'd), and then 90 down thru the grommet, then 90 towards the pump and transition there. Any other ideas ?

BTW, just tested high temp / low flow alarm system using emergency lights and siren cannibalized of my "emergency response vehicle". Did it at 6 am and woke whole house up so it should serve well.





Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Actually that's a magnetic job that I just use when responding .... son borrowed car and I'm afraid to leave that in there ..... I can see him getting stuck in traffic and giving it a workout







..... was sitting here on table while I type this and figured I'd have some fun and give ya'll a morning laugh


----------



## chrisnyc75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> BTW, just tested high temp / low flow alarm system using emergency lights and siren cannibalized of my "emergency response vehicle". Did it at 6 am and woke whole house up so it should serve well.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Actually that's a magnetic job that I just use when responding .... son borrowed car and I'm afraid to leave that in there ..... I can see him getting stuck in traffic and giving it a workout
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ..... was sitting here on table while I type this and figured I'd have some fun and give ya'll a morning laugh


LOL! It worked. I could totally see you rigging your Enthoo system to your home security system so the whole neighborhood has to respond in case of an overheating issue. lmao


----------



## chrisnyc75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KingJames*
> 
> Can I join the club?


Very nice! Welcome


----------



## jassilamba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> Wanted to throw this out there.....
> 
> In plant design, it's SOP to use flexible couplings at all pumps to take care of any alignment issues and isolate the pump's vibration from the rest of the system. We know this carries over to WC as peeps often hear the rattling in bay reservoirs. With the 35x2 being a bit of a behemoth, I had to design and have mounting adapter plate (being powder coated tomorrow) fabricated to hold the thing . So taking the wisdom of generations of plant design engineers before me, vibration isolation of the pump seems like it's worthy of attention when using rigid tuning......don't wanna shake anything loose do we now
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the 280 Rad at the bottom being the first thing downstream of the pump, the "visible tube run" is about a 3 inches, about 1/2" inch of which will be visible between the Rad and the vertical plate w/ Phanteks logo on it. A 15mm fitting extender eliminates the visible part. It's the inlet that concerns me more as it's harder to hide. About a 6" horizontal run maybe 1.75" horizontal visible ... plus the vertical. I could do the vertical drop and 1st 2" in rigid and then use the flex, but with no support at the transition point, the whole run will vibrate.
> 
> Best idea I have had so far is to come outta back of res thru the res bracket (18mm hole req'd), and then 90 down thru the grommet, then 90 towards the pump and transition there. Any other ideas ?
> 
> BTW, just tested high temp / low flow alarm system using emergency lights and siren cannibalized of my "emergency response vehicle". Did it at 6 am and woke whole house up so it should serve well.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Actually that's a magnetic job that I just use when responding .... son borrowed car and I'm afraid to leave that in there ..... I can see him getting stuck in traffic and giving it a workout
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ..... was sitting here on table while I type this and figured I'd have some fun and give ya'll a morning laugh


I have not forgotten about what you PMed me regarding last time, I haven't had the time to meet up with the person and ask for what you need. Will do this weekend.

Enthoo build take apart has officially moved forward, with one of my Titans listed on ebay. Other one to follow soon.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chrisnyc75*
> 
> LOL! It worked. I could totally see you rigging your Enthoo system to your home security system so the whole neighborhood has to respond in case of an overheating issue. lmao


Cool....if ya could hear it 70 miles away in NYC, I'm more than satisfied.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jassilamba*
> 
> I have not forgotten about what you PMed me regarding last time, I haven't had the time to meet up with the person and ask for what you need. Will do this weekend.
> 
> Enthoo build take apart has officially moved forward, with one of my Titans listed on ebay. Other one to follow soon.


Thank you...... I knew that I had a friend in the biz but just couldn't remember who it was....they run black powder coat on Tuesdays so I am expecting to hear today if he was able to handle the job. Since you are taking the Enthoo apart, you can lend him the pump mounting plate as a guide ? How much I gonna owe ya for the rental ?









When I saw ya post, I thought you wanna gonna ask me if I'd be willing to have my alarm system carried on MBPC









I saw ya post on the Titans a lil too late .... just bought two 780-s and WBs for them for just $90 less ...as an AutoCAD user, the Titans wuda been nice.....even tho I only use 2D .... it would give me an incentive to try 3D.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> Wanted to throw this out there.....
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> In plant design, it's SOP to use flexible couplings at all pumps to take care of any alignment issues and isolate the pump's vibration from the rest of the system. We know this carries over to WC as peeps often hear the rattling in bay reservoirs. With the 35x2 being a bit of a behemoth, I had to design and have mounting adapter plate (being powder coated tomorrow) fabricated to hold the thing . So taking the wisdom of generations of plant design engineers before me, vibration isolation of the pump seems like it's worthy of attention when using rigid tuning......don't wanna shake anything loose do we now
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the 280 Rad at the bottom being the first thing downstream of the pump, the "visible tube run" is about a 3 inches, about 1/2" inch of which will be visible between the Rad and the vertical plate w/ Phanteks logo on it. A 15mm fitting extender eliminates the visible part. It's the inlet that concerns me more as it's harder to hide. About a 6" horizontal run maybe 1.75" horizontal visible ... plus the vertical. I could do the vertical drop and 1st 2" in rigid and then use the flex, but with no support at the transition point, the whole run will vibrate.
> 
> Best idea I have had so far is to come outta back of res thru the res bracket (18mm hole req'd), and then 90 down thru the grommet, then 90 towards the pump and transition there. Any other ideas ?
> 
> 
> BTW, just tested high temp / low flow alarm system using emergency lights and siren cannibalized of my "emergency response vehicle". Did it at 6 am and woke whole house up so it should serve well.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Actually that's a magnetic job that I just use when responding .... son borrowed car and I'm afraid to leave that in there ..... I can see him getting stuck in traffic and giving it a workout
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ..... was sitting here on table while I type this and figured I'd have some fun and give ya'll a morning laugh


Blew coffee out my nose when I read that. Not a pleasant feeling but worth it.


----------



## jassilamba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> Cool....if ya could hear it 70 miles away in NYC, I'm more than satisfied.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thank you...... I knew that I had a friend in the biz but just couldn't remember who it was....they run black powder coat on Tuesdays so I am expecting to hear today if he was able to handle the job. Since you are taking the Enthoo apart, you can lend him the pump mounting plate as a guide ? How much I gonna owe ya for the rental ?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When I saw ya post, I thought you wanna gonna ask me if I'd be willing to have my alarm system carried on MBPC
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I saw ya post on the Titans a lil too late .... just bought two 780-s and WBs for them for just $90 less ...as an AutoCAD user, the Titans wuda been nice.....even tho I only use 2D .... it would give me an incentive to try 3D.


If you want the pump mounting plate that came with the case, let me know cos I dont use mine, and if you wanna pay for shipping, I can send it out to you.

As much fun Titans are, I need to start buying hardware that I can use around in my reviews more easily. I have had those Titans from the day they were released. Well used to have 3 of those suckers running in a tiny little HAF XB.


----------



## chrisnyc75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> even tho I only use 2D .... it would give me an incentive to try 3D.


That won't do at all. You can't run an awesome Enthoo Primo rig in 2D, it's not allowed.







I've been gaming exclusively in 3d since nvidia 3D Vision was released 5 (?) years ago. Once you go 3D, you'll never go back.


----------



## 6steven9

Weeee Was finally able to place on Order in canada From Canadacomputers but it's backordered but i live chatted with a Rep from Phantek and he said that they just received a shippment so i'm hoping that means they just haven't updated their site yet and i'll be getting contacted soon saying it's ready to ship


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chrisnyc75*
> 
> That won't do at all. You can't run an awesome Enthoo Primo rig in 2D, it's not allowed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've been gaming exclusively in 3d since nvidia 3D Vision was released 5 (?) years ago. Once you go 3D, you'll never go back.


Was talking about 2D AutoCAD where Geforce kicks tail on Quadro and anything else .... Titans compute function would, like the Quadro have usefulness in AutoCAD 3D. I actually don't enjoy 3D movies and 1st time I played Batman AA, I actually got motion sickness..... glad I tried again as had lotta fun with it.....so yeah...gaming3D is a staple around here....though till now I had to wait for a chance to get on one of the kids boxes.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jassilamba*
> 
> If you want the pump mounting plate that came with the case, let me know cos I dont use mine, and if you wanna pay for shipping, I can send it out to you.


My thought was it would be handy to have the part on hand when trying to line up the holes on the new part.

But I just might do that.... I can send you an account number .... I was prepared to let it overhang the one I have but the extra support would help.

Two questions ....

1. would like to hear your thoughts on vibration isolation of pump with regard to rigid / flex tuning from post # 1209

2. In exchange for the plate, you can have free unlimited license for the alarm system for ya "proper" Enthoo build and any thereafter. Since ya didn't use 5.25" bars for anything but the res last time, that's a good mounting point for the LED strobe also.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Blew coffee out my nose when I read that. Not a pleasant feeling but worth it.


Mission accomplished ! .... Not the coffee / nose part but glad it brightened ya day.


----------



## McSasquatch

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KingJames*


Thanks for posting! That's the same colour scheme I'll be going for (eventually), except that I intend to go for clear tubing with the Mayhems Pastel Ice White instead of your grey tubing, and will use grey (or silver as I think Bitfenix call them) braided cables instead of white... Project Monochrome I think I'll call it!


----------



## jassilamba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> Was talking about 2D AutoCAD where Geforce kicks tail on Quadro and anything else .... Titans compute function would, like the Quadro have usefulness in AutoCAD 3D. I actually don't enjoy 3D movies and 1st time I played Batman AA, I actually got motion sickness..... glad I tried again as had lotta fun with it.....so yeah...gaming3D is a staple around here....though till now I had to wait for a chance to get on one of the kids boxes.
> My thought was it would be handy to have the part on hand when trying to line up the holes on the new part.
> 
> But I just might do that.... I can send you an account number .... I was prepared to let it overhang the one I have but the extra support would help.
> Mission accomplished ! .... Not the coffee / nose part but glad it brightened ya day.


I have no issues letting it go, I have no use for it now, and will not have any use for it in the future. Based on how quickly my Titans sell, I will start on the a proper build for the Enthoo.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Tygon makes an antimicrobial silver tubing ya might wanna take a look at.....eliminates the need for biocides if the marketing claims are to be believed. Tygon is "standard fare" in testing laboratories and extremely flexible. It's not completely plasticizer free but the inner bore is....

"Tygon Silver Tubing has a plasticizer-free inner bore and a silver-based compound on the inner surface to decrease bacterial growth and protect against microbes."

http://www.stiflow.com/TygonSilver.pdf


----------



## Roxycon

First hole







scary to mod a new case without even trying it stock


----------



## chrisnyc75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roxycon*
> 
> 
> 
> First hole
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> scary to mod a new case without even trying it stock


haha I know what you mean. I drilled holes for my reservoir mount this past weekend -- it almost felt wrong to mess with the pristine design. lol After the months we've all spent dissecting every nuance of this case, though, I'm pretty sure we're on top of what we're doing.


----------



## Roxycon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chrisnyc75*
> 
> haha I know what you mean. I drilled holes for my reservoir mount this past weekend -- it almost felt wrong to mess with the pristine design. lol After the months we've all spent dissecting every nuance of this case, though, I'm pretty sure we're on top of what we're doing.


Well, thats all you.. Ive just had some lucky shots







1-2 mm further back on the hole and i would have needed to go creative with my psu









Edit:
I have till now just found two things on the enthoo that does annoy me.. If youre using a 480 up top with inlet/outlet in front position you can only utilize three fans on the top and the windows on the side panel make a kracking noise


----------



## Scorpion49

My case is here!

EDIT:

Holy crap this thing is huge. I had an 800D and NZXT Switch 810 before and it makes them look small. Also, I was very curious about the LED strip on the front and how hard it would be to replace it with a different color to match my build. The answer is apparently "not very".

Looks like this 50cmx5mm strip is a direct replacement if I want red.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roxycon*
> 
> I have till now just found two things on the enthoo that does annoy me.. If youre using a 480 up top with inlet/outlet in front position you can only utilize three fans on the top and the windows on the side panel make a kracking noise


Yes and the creakiness is baffling me up to this point ... I went over it a few pages back ....

1. it's a groove thing and ya won't be able to line all 3 sides of that and get it back in.
2. the fold over tab design resulted in a few chips during initial install (gotta look close.)
3. Not gonna be aable to take out and reinstall too many times.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scorpion49*
> 
> I was very curious about the LED strip on the front and how hard it would be to replace it with a different color to match my build. The answer is apparently "not very".
> 
> Looks like this 50cmx5mm strip is a direct replacement if I want red.


See Jesse's FAQ ... he did it....the 50 is too wide tho .... they use a 5.5mm one

http://themodzoo.com/forum/index.php?/topic/883-enthoo-primo-front-led-color-change


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Found an error in attachment .... will repost tomorrow


----------



## Scorpion49

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> Yes and the creakiness is baffling me up to this point ... I went over it a few pages back ....
> 
> 1. it's a groove thing and ya won't be able to line all 3 sides of that and get it back in.
> 2. the fold over tab design resulted in a few chips during initial install (gotta look close.)
> 3. Not gonna be aable to take out and reinstall too many times.
> See Jesse's FAQ ... he did it....the 50 is too wide tho .... they use a 5.5mm one
> 
> http://themodzoo.com/forum/index.php?/topic/883-enthoo-primo-front-led-color-change


Dunno if the link was showing the wrong one, but the one I was looking at is listed as 5mm width which should fit. I did measure the stock one as well. I figured someone else had done it but I didn't feel like searching for it and it was really easy to get out and verify.

I'm going for the beaten-to-death ROG red and black with some white mixed in, so I guess red LED is good. I would try for some other colors but I landed with a RIVE so here I go with that. Although there is a good possibility I will take this case apart and drag it down to the powdercoating shop for turning it white.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scorpion49*
> 
> Dunno if the link was showing the wrong one, but the one I was looking at is listed as 5mm width which should fit. I did measure the stock one as well. I figured someone else had done it but I didn't feel like searching for it and it was really easy to get out and verify.
> 
> I'm going for the beaten-to-death ROG red and black with some white mixed in, so I guess red LED is good. I would try for some other colors but I landed with a RIVE so here I go with that. Although there is a good possibility I will take this case apart and drag it down to the powdercoating shop for turning it white.


50's are generally 10-12mm so you got some special ones .... I ordered mine from china ...still not here yet.....stuff from germany came but not china









Doing R / B too .... spicing it up with white highlights on the cables, white LEDs in side and white acetal on the res


----------



## ADragg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hereisphilly*
> 
> That sounds really good! The white and gold fittings that complement the mobo i think will work really well.
> I think going with the blue coolant rather than the yellow is a better shout. Yellow and gold are too close together on the colour specturm and you wont get the contrast (i think) you are after
> Cant wait for some pictures when you finish!


Thanks for the response. I think the blue is probably the best way to go as well. It will match the LED's and just look good in general. I was just clinging to my original idea of clear tubing with the Sunset Yellow, which looks really good in the right light. But I just really love the idea of white on gold with the understated blue coolant popping up in certain places. I hope the blue won't show through the white tubing, though.


----------



## KingJames

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *McSasquatch*
> 
> Thanks for posting! That's the same colour scheme I'll be going for (eventually), except that I intend to go for clear tubing with the Mayhems Pastel Ice White instead of your grey tubing, and will use grey (or silver as I think Bitfenix call them) braided cables instead of white... Project Monochrome I think I'll call it!


My tubing is clear.. It probably doesn't help that I took the pics in my dark dorm room with my 2 year old phone


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roxycon*
> 
> Well, thats all you.. Ive just had some lucky shots
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 1-2 mm further back on the hole and i would have needed to go creative with my psu
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Edit:
> I have till now just found two things on the enthoo that does annoy me.. If youre using a 480 up top with inlet/outlet in front position you can only utilize three fans on the top and the windows on the side panel make a kracking noise


Measure twice, think 'what if', measure again, sleep on it, measure again...


----------



## jassilamba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Measure twice, think 'what if', measure again, sleep on it, measure again...


What is this measure your speak off??? lol

If you measure correctly - call it a mod.

If you cut blindly like I do - then call it art.

Between did anyone see the 1 page review of the Enthoo Primo by Maximum PC (print edition)?


----------



## McSasquatch

They've arrived at OcUK!


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jassilamba*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Measure twice, think 'what if', measure again, sleep on it, measure again...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What is this measure your speak off??? lol
> 
> If you measure correctly - call it a mod.
> 
> If you cut blindly like I do - then call it art.
> 
> Between did anyone see the 1 page review of the Enthoo Primo by Maximum PC (print edition)?
Click to expand...

ROFL









In that case what I do is definitely not art... at least what you call art. When I screw up and have to Rube Goldberg it's called "character" or "custom".


----------



## jassilamba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> ROFL
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In that case what I do is definitely not art... at least what you call art. When I screw up and have to Rube Goldberg it's called "character" or "custom".


For my first ever case pain job, I didn't sand the surface, and my stupid self painted the case in MN cold of around 25F

Now I totally call this art lol -


----------



## doyll

Well the yellow looks good but the black is to smooth and shiny.

*
We now have Primos posting from OcUK. They got them in today!*


----------



## Hereisphilly

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Well the yellow looks good but the black is to smooth and shiny.
> 
> *
> We now have Primos posting from OcUK. They got them in today!*


FINALLY!!! Are they dispatching today? Do you know if the new fans are released too?


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hereisphilly*
> 
> FINALLY!!! Are they dispatching today? Do you know if the new fans are released too?


Don't know for sure but would think so. All they need to do is cut wrapping off of pallet and slap invoice and address on the boxes.

You have PM about your castor base.


----------



## bond32

Has anyone tried to fit the reservoir bracket in with an R9 290x? I haven't measured yet or anything I was just curious. Just got mine in.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

No way .... 10.75" in top slot / 10.00" in 3rd slot max

Card is 10.9" x 4.3" x 1.4"

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chrisnyc75*
> 
> haha I know what you mean. I drilled holes for my reservoir mount this past weekend -- it almost felt wrong to mess with the pristine design. lol After the months we've all spent dissecting every nuance of this case, though, I'm pretty sure we're on top of what we're doing.


Chris..... are yu doing rigid ? Seems the US is outta E22 tubing and if I was going to order from overseas, figured might as well get a group together.


----------



## chrisnyc75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> Chris..... are yu doing rigid ? Seems the US is outta E22 tubing and if I was going to order from overseas, figured might as well get a group together.


No, I originally wanted to do rigid acrylic tubing because I really like the aesthetic, but after careful consideration I decided that was one extra complication I didn't need on my first wc build. I'm using regular 3/4" OD Masterkleer tubing this time.

I'll make the switch to rigid acrylic on my next upgrade (a few years from now).

p.s. I saw on Monsoon's facebook page recently that they're coming out with a set of acrylic pipe bending templates. They look really useful if you're going that route, check them out.


----------



## jassilamba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chrisnyc75*
> 
> No, I originally wanted to do rigid acrylic tubing because I really like the aesthetic, but after careful consideration I decided that was one extra complication I didn't need on my first wc build. I'm using regular 3/4" OD Masterkleer tubing this time.
> 
> I'll make the switch to rigid acrylic on my next upgrade (a few years from now).
> 
> p.s. I saw on Monsoon's facebook page recently that they're coming out with a set of acrylic pipe bending templates. They look really useful if you're going that route, check them out.


Acrylic tubing is easier to use than it looks like, trust me. With a right insert, and temperature, you can bend the tube with hand without using anything. And if really want to use something, we all have stuff laying around at home that can be used to accomplish bending without any issues.

Plus acrylic tubing from places like mcmaster are dirt cheap so its okay if you mess up.


----------



## stilllogicz

For my upcoming build with this case it looks like I'm gonna have to go dual PSU for what I'm trying to accomplish. On the backside of the case, is there anyway to fit 2 PSU's back there? I'd like to keep the front available for a 480 rad.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chrisnyc75*
> 
> No, I originally wanted to do rigid acrylic tubing because I really like the aesthetic, but after careful consideration I decided that was one extra complication I didn't need on my first wc build. I'm using regular 3/4" OD Masterkleer tubing this time.
> 
> I'll make the switch to rigid acrylic on my next upgrade (a few years from now).
> 
> *p.s. I saw on Monsoon's facebook page recently that they're coming out with a set of acrylic pipe bending templates. They look really useful if you're going that route, check them out.*


What is Monsoon's facebook page? Can't seem to find it or any mention of it on their site.

I did see this posted in the 'Acrylic pipebending 101' thread:
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Pics of the Monsoon pro kit.


----------



## Mazel

Very interested in the case, but I'm wonder about the maximum thick for a radiator if it's installed using the side bracket. As I've already got a 240mm Monsta and would like to also have a 480mm on the bottom, I've seen 30mm, but I've seen people using 60mm thick rads on the side bracket with a 480 on the bottom. Anyone got an accurate measurement?


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mazel*
> 
> Very interested in the case, but I'm wonder about the maximum thick for a radiator if it's installed using the side bracket. As I've already got a 240mm Monsta and would like to also have a 480mm on the bottom, I've seen 30mm, but I've seen people using 60mm thick rads on the side bracket with a 480 on the bottom. Anyone got an accurate measurement?


Download the manual.... it has tables for all that stuff

http://www.phanteks.com/assets/manuals/Enthoo-Primo.pdf

Can also see here on the FAQ tab

http://phanteks.com/Enthoo-Primo.html

also says 30mm thick here
http://themodzoo.com/forum/index.php?/page/articles.html/_/reviews/cases/phanteks-enthoo-primo-full-tower-review-r67?pg=7
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> What is Monsoon's facebook page? Can't seem to find it or any mention of it on their site.
> 
> I did see this posted in the 'Acrylic pipebending 101' thread:


It's also on frozencpu's facebook page .... along with the new bendable SS tubing

https://www.facebook.com/frozencpucom

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stilllogicz*
> 
> For my upcoming build with this case it looks like I'm gonna have to go dual PSU for what I'm trying to accomplish. On the backside of the case, is there anyway to fit 2 PSU's back there? I'd like to keep the front available for a 480 rad.


Look at Jesse's build over at the Modzoom.... he put 2 PSUs in ....

http://themodzoo.com/forum/index.php?/page/articles.html/_/reviews/cases/phanteks-enthoo-primo-full-tower-review-r67?pg=4


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Putting this in a new post ..... *It's the pic some of ya'll been waiting for:*

Asus GTX 780 w/ EK Water Blcok and Backplate *WILL FIT IN SLI* with 3 slot spacing and reservoir bracket in place. That's the card in Slot No. 4 and 5. There's about 7mm clearance between the end of the card and the bracket at its skinniest point and just about 30mm to the centerline of the holes. IOW the 60mm res shoud just fit.



Slot 1 and 2 - 1st GFX Card
Slot 3 - empty
Slot 4 and 5 - 2d GFX Card

*NOTE:* Figured I better come back and report this ....literally came to me while sleeping









If ya have the EK Water block that I do....the "clean one", it fits:



If you hAve either of the other ones, it don't





Notice the part where it's not as wide on the right side..... that will hit the slanted part of the res bracket for the lower card in SLI if ya have 3 slot spacing


----------



## smokedawg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> Has anyone tried to fit the reservoir bracket in with an R9 290x? I haven't measured yet or anything I was just curious. Just got mine in.


I just got done yesterday night with my first watercooled build and it is a tight fit (as in the reservoir touches the card).




Still testing for leaks.
Question: Is it normal to hear those gushing sounds when I turn on the pump? Or is this a sign there is some air left inside somewhere? The sound doesnt seem to come from the pump itself but the radiators / blocks / reservoir (hard to tell). After a couple of seconds with the pump running it goes away but I am new to this and want to make sure. I followed the advice of repeatedly starting the pump and tilting / shaking the case in all directions. I should have hit the gym before with this case


----------



## Hereisphilly

DISPATCHED!!!! Finally, let the fun begin!


----------



## Roxycon

have someone connected PWM fans to the hub?


----------



## paulyoung

I'm hopping to join your club, with in my opinion one of the sexiest looking off the shelf cases you can buy also at a wicked price. My problem is it doesn't support XL ATX out of the box. I have the MSI Z87 XPower motherboard and would love to use it, if I could. My question is between the bottom of a regular ATX MB, and the Enthoos psu shroud there looks to be about 2 inches spare, is there enough room for me to do what we all do best and drill and tap 3 new holes for standoffs ? I understand that I would be covering up the bottom grommets but that isn't an issue. The MB is 34.5 cm long if that helps. Would one of you lovely people mind measuring for me please exactly how long is the motherboard tray, that would be great.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paulyoung*
> 
> I'm hopping to join your club, with in my opinion one of the sexiest looking off the shelf cases you can buy also at a wicked price. My problem is it doesn't support XL ATX out of the box. I have the MSI Z87 XPower motherboard and would love to use it, if I could. My question is between the bottom of a regular ATX MB, and the Enthoos psu shroud there looks to be about 2 inches spare, is there enough room for me to do what we all do best and drill and tap 3 new holes for standoffs ? I understand that I would be covering up the bottom grommets but that isn't an issue. The MB is 34.5 cm long if that helps. Would one of you lovely people mind measuring for me please exactly how long is the motherboard tray, that would be great.


I also have a Z87 XPower, and I'm sorry to say but it will not fit in the Enthoo Primo. If it would have I'd already have my build with it in it. That would have made my life so much easier.

It is 32.4cm from the PSU ledge to the top row of mobo standoffs.
Even if the board would have fit you would have lost use of the bottom two PCI-e slots.


----------



## bond32

Just placed an order for some goodies. Ordered an XSPC D5 pump top as the bay res seems to be too noisy for me. Going to put the pump on the rubber pump base. Also have the Swiftech micro res I plan to put on the side of the drive cage. I think that will look pretty good. If it won't fit there I am sure I can find somewhere creative to put it. Also going back to the solid black tubing... The yellow isn't doing it for me.


----------



## chrisnyc75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> Just placed an order for some goodies. Ordered an XSPC D5 pump top as the bay res seems to be too noisy for me. Going to put the pump on the rubber pump base. Also have the Swiftech micro res I plan to put on the side of the drive cage. I think that will look pretty good. If it won't fit there I am sure I can find somewhere creative to put it. Also going back to the solid black tubing... The yellow isn't doing it for me.


I gotta tell ya, settling on a tubing color has been one of the most unexpectedly difficult parts of my build. lol Maybe because I have honestly been so focused on function and performance that I didnt give aesthetics a thought until very recently?

And I'm pretty sure when all is said and done (hopefully this weekend!) I'm going to be unsatisfied with what I went with. But the wallet is back on lockdown, I'm using whatever I have now until my next upgrade down the road.


----------



## bond32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chrisnyc75*
> 
> I gotta tell ya, settling on a tubing color has been one of the most unexpectedly difficult parts of my build. lol Maybe because I have honestly been so focused on function and performance that I didnt give aesthetics a thought until very recently?
> 
> And I'm pretty sure when all is said and done (hopefully this weekend!) I'm going to be unsatisfied with what I went with. But the wallet is back on lockdown, I'm using whatever I have now until my next upgrade down the road.


You said it...

Honestly, I prefer the solid black tubing. It just seems fitting to me. Maybe later down the road I will do the rigid tubing but really I want to do solid copper. I keep changing things though... Can't begin the solid copper process till I am satisfied


----------



## 6steven9

For Canaidian buyers waiting for this case Canadacomputers just got a shipment says they have 10+ on there online store and they're giving a pretty good discount for shipping right now got it shipped for 283 with tax and shipping pretty decent since newegg when they get stock it would be over 300 so not to shabby


----------



## chrisnyc75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> You said it...
> 
> Honestly, I prefer the solid black tubing. It just seems fitting to me. Maybe later down the road I will do the rigid tubing but really I want to do solid copper. I keep changing things though... Can't begin the solid copper process till I am satisfied


I hear ya. My next build will almost certainly be rigid acrylic, and my color scheme will NOT be red & black. lol

You know, Monsoon makes copper compression fittings (they call them "orange", but they're clearly copper colored) that would look amazing with black tubing, and that would allow you to dip your toes in the copper scheme without going all-in with an actual all-copper build.

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/15825/ex-tub-1258/Monsoon_Free_Center_Compression_Fitting_-_12ID_x_34OD_-_Single_Orange_FCC-1234-1P-OR.html?tl=g30c569s1764


----------



## dsmwookie

Did anyone else receive a fan hub with a male molex instead of a female? Any thoughts on how to resolve this problem quickly?


----------



## chrisnyc75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dsmwookie*
> 
> Did anyone else receive a fan hub with a male molex instead of a female? Any thoughts on how to resolve this problem quickly?


Male-to-female molex adapter?


----------



## stilllogicz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> Look at Jesse's build over at the Modzoom.... he put 2 PSUs in ....
> 
> http://themodzoo.com/forum/index.php?/page/articles.html/_/reviews/cases/phanteks-enthoo-primo-full-tower-review-r67?pg=4


Ty sir!


----------



## paulyoung

Oh bugger, so I've got 2 choices then. Either dug out my Z77 MPower, or get to work with the Dremel and make it fit. I would prefer to use my Z87 board . I've got a couple of ideas brewing to make it fit. Whatever happens I'm buying the case I've been waiting and drooling over it since the first pics were leaked.


----------



## jassilamba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stilllogicz*
> 
> Ty sir!


Just to clarify, I did not use 2 PSUs in my build, but I wanted to show that there is way to use 2 PSUs in the case, without loosing the lower 480 rad mount. If you see the review, I do talk about what you need to do to make it work. Should be an easy mod.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dsmwookie*
> 
> Did anyone else receive a fan hub with a male molex instead of a female? Any thoughts on how to resolve this problem quickly?


It should have a male molex, just like every other molex powered device. The molex's coming from a PSU are female (male & female refers to the pins inside, not to the plug itself).



For example, here is a "Molex (5.25 Male) / Molex(2X 5.25 Female) Power Splitter Cable"

http://www.monoprice.com/Product/?c_id=102&cp_id=10245&cs_id=1024501&p_id=1313


----------



## dsmwookie

We have different definitions of male. That may be the standard, but when another item entering a slot it is "male". Regardless mine came with a "female" end instead of a male end and my PSU only has female ends by your terminology.

Not trying to say, you're wrong, just clarifying how I think of it in my head.


----------



## stilllogicz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jassilamba*
> 
> Just to clarify, I did not use 2 PSUs in my build, but I wanted to show that there is way to use 2 PSUs in the case, without loosing the lower 480 rad mount. If you see the review, I do talk about what you need to do to make it work. Should be an easy mod.


Yep, it looks pretty simple. With a proposed TriFire 290 setup overvolted, 4930k overvolted, I'll not only need 2 PSU's but alot of rad space to keep it cool. Good to know it's not a complicated mod to fit the 2 PSU's in the back without sacrificing the 480 rad space in the bottom. Phew.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dsmwookie*
> 
> Did anyone else receive a fan hub with a male molex instead of a female? Any thoughts on how to resolve this problem quickly?


I had one installed backwards .... I took it apart and reassembled.... pics in this thread somewhere









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> You said it...
> 
> Honestly, I prefer the solid black tubing. It just seems fitting to me. Maybe later down the road I will do the rigid tubing but really I want to do solid copper. I keep changing things though... Can't begin the solid copper process till I am satisfied


Check the facebook page for frozencpu.... new SS tubing


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stilllogicz*
> 
> Yep, it looks pretty simple. With a proposed TriFire 290 setup overvolted, 4930k overvolted, I'll not only need 2 PSU's but alot of rad space to keep it cool. Good to know it's not a complicated mod to fit the 2 PSU's in the back without sacrificing the 480 rad space in the bottom. Phew.


You'll need 1200 watter just for the GFX .....I put my generator sets in these for thermal and acoustic insulation







....everything should fit

http://www.soundproofcanopy.com/acoustic-enclosure-for-generator.html

When socket is female / pins inside inside are male....when socket is male, pins inside are female.....so depends whether ya thinking metal or plastic.


----------



## grifftech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> I had one installed backwards .... I took it apart and reassembled.... pics in this thread somewhere
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Check the facebook page for frozencpu.... new SS tubing


That is SICK looking but at 10 bucks an inch I think that is a tad too much


----------



## dsmwookie

Got it figured out and brought these Corsair SP120s back in order. Darn thing is almost inaudible now and it saved me $100 for a fan controller.


----------



## stilllogicz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *grifftech*
> 
> That is SICK looking but at 10 bucks an inch I think that is a tad too much


Is that price confirmed or just sarcasm?


----------



## Roxycon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stilllogicz*
> 
> Is that price confirmed or just sarcasm?


They are available for order.. And oh god what a price o.o


----------



## grifftech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stilllogicz*
> 
> Is that price confirmed or just sarcasm?


$8.80 an inch, my bad









7.5" for $65.99
http://www.frozencpu.com/cat/l3/g30/c289/s715/list/p1/Liquid_Cooling-Tubing_Accessories-Anti-kink_Coils_-_12_OD-Page1.html


----------



## stilllogicz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roxycon*
> 
> They are available for order.. And oh god what a price o.o


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *grifftech*
> 
> $8.80 an inch, my bad
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 7.5" for $65.99
> http://www.frozencpu.com/cat/l3/g30/c289/s715/list/p1/Liquid_Cooling-Tubing_Accessories-Anti-kink_Coils_-_12_OD-Page1.html


Yea... how about no Feser. I'm actually looking forward to Monsoon's new "Hardline" acrylic. I wanna see how it is vs Primochill's variant.


----------



## grifftech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stilllogicz*
> 
> Yea... how about no Feser. I'm actually looking forward to Monsoon's new "Hardline" acrylic. I wanna see how it is vs Primochill's variant.


For that price I would try to get custom stainless steel tubing bent for piping







But their stuff gives me a cool idea I might try.


----------



## jassilamba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *grifftech*
> 
> For that price I would try to get custom stainless steel tubing bent for piping
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But their stuff gives me a cool idea I might try.


That is not tubing, its just tubing cover. So yeah for the price that is not worth it, at-least for me.


----------



## grifftech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jassilamba*
> 
> That is not tubing, its just tubing cover. So yeah for the price that is not worth it, at-least for me.


Yeah knew it was just a cover.


----------



## grifftech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jassilamba*
> 
> That is not tubing, its just tubing cover. So yeah for the price that is not worth it, at-least for me.


And probably made in china for a buck


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *grifftech*
> 
> That is SICK looking but at 10 bucks an inch I think that is a tad too much


That's what she ..... oh.... you still still talking about computer stuff .... never mind









methinks ya just by cupla inches in spots where ya have a kink.


----------



## grifftech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> That's what she ..... oh.... you still still talking about computer stuff .... never mind
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> methinks ya just by cupla inches in spots where ya have a kink.


hehe I wanted to make that joke also







yeah I figured for kink areas, but I think the tubing would look cool completely covered in it. Very mech and modern looking.


----------



## Hooy

My case arrived with a couple problems.

1. The right retention clip for the front bottom panel is broken. It doesn't click when pushed in but instead just pushes the corner of that panel out about 0.5mm causing an unflush look...
The mechanism seems to be inaccessible (5.25" drive cage blocking as well as it being enclosed)... any suggestions?? I am considering taking some pliers and trying to rip it out. Sending back a 50lb case is my last resort.

2. I didn't receive a manual or any documentation in the box. Is this normal??

EDIT: found manual online


----------



## jassilamba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hooy*
> 
> My case arrived with a couple problems.
> 
> 1. The right retention clip for the front bottom panel is broken. It doesn't click when pushed in but instead just pushes the corner of that panel out about 0.5mm causing an unflush look...
> The mechanism seems to be inaccessible (5.25" drive cage blocking as well as it being enclosed)... any suggestions?? I am considering taking some pliers and trying to rip it out. Sending back a 50lb case is my last resort.
> 
> 2. I didn't receive a manual or any documentation in the box. Is this normal?? I also can't find a downloadable manual on the website...


I would suggest that you contact Phanteks/retailer. Also you can take the front panel off by pulling from the bottom. The mechanism is part of the front panel so removing that might help. When you remove the front panel, watch out for the front panel LED cable (Top Right)


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hooy*
> 
> My case arrived with a couple problems.
> 
> 1. The right retention clip for the front bottom panel is broken. It doesn't click when pushed in but instead just pushes the corner of that panel out about 0.5mm causing an unflush look...
> The mechanism seems to be inaccessible (5.25" drive cage blocking as well as it being enclosed)... any suggestions?? I am considering taking some pliers and trying to rip it out. Sending back a 50lb case is my last resort.
> 
> 2. I didn't receive a manual or any documentation in the box. Is this normal??
> 
> EDIT: found manual online


I don't know if it was me or the way it was delivered but once I removed the small panel in front of the fans, I couldn't get it back on. Contacted Phanteks, they sent me two new clickety thingies. Installed them and still couldn't get it to close. here's how:

1. Take off the entire from pane; ..... lift out from bottom and pull towards you.... you can assist by pressing on the round insert clips from the inside if have both side panel off..... watch out ya don't yank the LED wire apart at top.... disconnect and then lay case down, and ya can access the doohickeys from the back.

2. Don't do anything just yet. Flip the front panel over and look at the ckickety things.....using something small and pointy, press the center in and see if you cab get it to click. Press it again to get it back out..... if this works the solution is simple.

3. While sitting down, put the bottom of the front panel on ya lap. Open the 5.25 bay door (towards you). Put ya palms on the little arrows wherre the small panel wont click in and wrap ya fingers over the bottom of the 5.25 opening so you can squeeze from both sides..... worked like a charm.

EDIT: Just saw Jesse said much of what i did already


----------



## Scorpion49

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> I don't know if it was me or the way it was delivered but once I removed the small panel in front of the fans, I couldn't get it back on. Contacted Phanteks, they sent me two new clickety thingies. Installed them and still couldn't get it to close. here's how:
> 
> 1. Take off the entire from pane; ..... lift out from bottom and pull towards you.... you can assist by pressing on the round insert clips from the inside if have both side panel off..... watch out ya don't yank the LED wire apart at top.... disconnect and then lay case down, and ya can access the doohickeys from the back.
> 
> 2. Don't do anything just yet. Flip the front panel over and look at the ckickety things.....using something small and pointy, press the center in and see if you cab get it to click. Press it again to get it back out..... if this works the solution is simple.
> 
> 3. While sitting down, put the bottom of the front panel on ya lap. Open the 5.25 bay door (towards you). Put ya palms on the little arrows wherre the small panel wont click in and wrap ya fingers over the bottom of the 5.25 opening so you can squeeze from both sides..... worked like a charm.
> 
> EDIT: Just saw Jesse said much of what i did already


Mine didn't want to snap in either, because of the very rigid structure of the front panel and the recessed nature of the clips, not the best design I've seen. It will go though, just gotta put the purse down and do it.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Well I'm about to buy submit Order 5 of 5 for my Water Cooling Components ..... I'd like there not to be a 6th and maybe that will work with your help. I'm doing my first rigid acrylic build and tried to plan out as best I could so I can minimize the .... "oh crap, it's almost done but I forgot just one thing and now I gotta wait and stare at it for a week till it comes back in stock and ships". In that regard, I'd ask that those of you who BTDT (been there done that) take a peek. First a couple of explanations regarding goals

1. Finally decided to close my eyes to the expense (don't ask) but decided I wasn't gonna bend the tube.... for the most part.... may do some slight bends where it won't be visible. I just love the look of the straight fittings.

2. i wanted to go full parallel on the GPU loop. Carefully balanced the head loss in the split and return lines with no bridges or Crystal Links cause I just couldn't balance the flows. Besides, I expect the 4770k to be the bigger challenge from an overclocking standpoint and the 35x2 makes any worries about flow rate go away.

3. I have isolated the pump mounting wise and also will use 3-4" of flex tubing in unseen locations to keep the pump vibrations from the rigid tubing as much as possible. Pump is where the lower HD cage was BTW.

So suggestion welcome, criticisms welcome, well compared to my wife, how bad could ya get ?....

It's a 24 x 36 CAD drawing so not gonna post an image .... PDF seems most useful.

I know I shuda done the sleeving and cables 1st .... and I'll have to take stuff apart in the end to get some of them in once done, but don't expect to complete that till Xmas.

And thx in advance.

Enthoo-RoG Build 2013.pdf 261k .pdf file


Please not that the attached drawing is owned and copyrighted by NEPC. Any unauthorized use of said drawing without the expressed written consent of the engineer is just fine and dandy with me.,


----------



## grifftech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> Well I'm about to buy submit Order 5 of 5 for my Water Cooling Components ..... I'd like there not to be a 6th and maybe that will work with your help. I'm doing my first rigid acrylic build and tried to plan out as best I could so I can minimize the .... "oh crap, it's almost done but I forgot just one thing and now I gotta wait and stare at it for a week till it comes back in stock and ships". In that regard, I'd ask that those of you who BTDT (been there done that) take a peek. First a couple of explanations regarding goals
> 
> 1. Finally decided to close my eyes to the expense (don't ask) but decided I wasn't gonna bend the tube.... for the most part.... may do some slight bends where it won't be visible. I just love the look of the straight fittings.
> 
> 2. i wanted to go full parallel on the GPU loop. Carefully balanced the head loss in the split and return lines with no bridges or Crystal Links cause I just couldn't balance the flows. Besides, I expect the 4770k to be the bigger challenge from an overclocking standpoint and the 35x2 makes any worries about flow rate go away.
> 
> 3. I have isolated the pump mounting wise and also will use 3-4" of flex tubing in unseen locations to keep the pump vibrations from the rigid tubing as much as possible. Pump is where the lower HD cage was BTW.
> 
> So suggestion welcome, criticisms welcome, well compared to my wife, how bad could ya get ?....
> 
> It's a 24 x 36 CAD drawing so not gonna post an image .... PDF seems most useful.
> 
> I know I shuda done the sleeving and cables 1st .... and I'll have to take stuff apart in the end to get some of them in once done, but don't expect to complete that till Xmas.
> 
> And thx in advance.
> 
> Enthoo-RoG Build 2013.pdf 261k .pdf file
> 
> 
> Please not that the attached drawing is owned and copyrighted by NEPC. Any unauthorized use of said drawing without the expressed written consent of the engineer is just fine and dandy with me.,


What is the bleeder tube used for and where do you use it and how?


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Basically same way ya use one in any plumbing system.

Look at the upper left .... Used the two top rad ports with 40mm of g-1/4 extension to bring up just short of fan cover. Can unscrew the plug an screw in the rigid tube with valve at top..... Running the system with a book under back of case.....air will escape at highest point and collect in the tube. Cracking the valve will let it escape. Only envision using after fluid change with 2nd PSU only.

Can also use this method in a auto fill kinda way ....lets say ya system is a lil short but ya don't wanna start stop start stop. Put 2" of water in the column and run it.....level will drop as entrained air bubbles out. .... ya have too much.... open drain valve and let a few drops out.....oops forgot drain valve .....


----------



## ADragg

The front panel on mine took a LOT of pressure to push in. Enough that if you don't take your other arm and pull the case towards you as you push the front panel in, you would just push the case right over. When it first arrived it was unflush and I was kinda bummed because it didn't seem like something that could be fixed, but I finally figured out that if you push in extremely hard, it will go.


----------



## Hereisphilly

Its here!!!! Jeeesus this thing is enormous! I knew it was going to be big but definitely not this big!


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

FWIW, when I first got my case the front grill panel didn't want to open as easy as it seemed in review videos click or back in place at all, and to some extent the same goes for the top filter and even the bottom filters didn't want to just push click out and easily go back in and stay, however, turns out they were just tight fitting in my case. I had to open up the little pieces that the prongs slide into for the front grill and line it up to get it to pop back into place, and the others took more than one attempt to go back, but now after having done them all several times they all open and close super easy just like I had originally expected they ought to. Seems they just needed broken in a little bit in my case.


----------



## Scorpion49

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hereisphilly*
> 
> Its here!!!! Jeeesus this thing is enormous! I knew it was going to be big but definitely not this big!


That was my thought too. I was totally not expecting it to dwarf my air 540.


----------



## chrisnyc75

Oh yeah, it's big. Size-wise, I believe it's right up there with 900D and Cosmos II. Enthoo Primo is not for the "mid-tower" segment. lol


----------



## shiv15

I just got my case in last night. A few takeaways that I noticed.

1. It is HUGE as mentioned. My wife asked what I could possibly need that much space for.








2. I was having the same issue with the front panel. It took a good amount of force to get it to click back in. Also, the bottom filters took a while to want to pop out and go back in.

My box came in from ups with a big gash in it, looked like a hi-lo fork hit it. By some small miracle, there was no damage to the case!

I have purchased the asus z87 hero rog board for this build. I'm still unsure on what color theme to go with as my current pc is already red tubing. Any thoughts of other colors that go well with a few small red accents ? (mobo/red memory also).


----------



## chrisnyc75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shiv15*
> 
> 1. It is HUGE as mentioned. My wife asked what I could possibly need that much space for.


The correct response is, of course, "You'll see."


----------



## stilllogicz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chrisnyc75*
> 
> The correct response is, of course, "You'll see."


The correct response is, I'm building a machine to battle the forces of evil everywhere.


----------



## jassilamba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shiv15*
> 
> I just got my case in last night. A few takeaways that I noticed.
> 
> 1. It is HUGE as mentioned. My wife asked what I could possibly need that much space for.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 2. I was having the same issue with the front panel. It took a good amount of force to get it to click back in. Also, the bottom filters took a while to want to pop out and go back in.
> 
> My box came in from ups with a big gash in it, looked like a hi-lo fork hit it. By some small miracle, there was no damage to the case!
> 
> I have purchased the asus z87 hero rog board for this build. I'm still unsure on what color theme to go with as my current pc is already red tubing. Any thoughts of other colors that go well with a few small red accents ? (mobo/red memory also).


You can use clear or black tubing with some red and black (mixed) fittings.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chrisnyc75*
> 
> Oh yeah, it's big. Size-wise, I believe it's right up there with 900D and Cosmos II. Enthoo Primo is not for the "mid-tower" segment. lol


It's definitely a big full tower, but I have to say it looks pretty small sitting next to a Cosmo II. It's not as tall or as deep as a 900D, but it is a little bigger than an 800D.

Enthoo Primo: 250 x 650 x 600 mm / 9.8 x 25.6 x 23.6 inch (W x H x D)
800D: 229 x 609 x 609 mm / 9 x 24 x 24 inch (W x H x D)
900D: 251 x 691 x 650 mm / 9.9 x 27.2 x 25.6 inch (W x H x D)
Cosmo II: 344 x 704 x 664 mm / 13.5 x 27.7 x 26.1 inch (W x H x D)

Considering how much smaller the Enthoo Primo is than a Cosmo II, it blows the Cosmo II away in so many ways it aint even funny. The Cosmo II is seriously lacking when it comes to watercooling capability unless you want to get creative modding it.


----------



## jassilamba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> It's definitely a big full tower, but I have to say it looks pretty small sitting next to a Cosmo II. It's not as tall or as deep as a 900D, but it is a little bigger than an 800D.
> 
> Enthoo Primo: 250 x 650 x 600 mm / 9.8 x 25.6 x 23.6 inch (W x H x D)
> 800D: 229 x 609 x 609 mm / 9 x 24 x 24 inch (W x H x D)
> 900D: 251 x 691 x 650 mm / 9.9 x 27.2 x 25.6 inch (W x H x D)
> Cosmo II: 344 x 704 x 664 mm / 13.5 x 27.7 x 26.1 inch (W x H x D)
> 
> Considering how much smaller the Enthoo Primo is than a Cosmo II, it blows the Cosmo II away in so many ways it aint even funny. The Cosmo II is seriously lacking when it comes to watercooling capability unless you want to get creative modding it.


Cosmos needs to have 2 sets of measurements, Internal and external. Those Handles are waste of space when you look at the dimensions.


----------



## chrisnyc75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Considering how much smaller the Enthoo Primo is than a Cosmo II, it blows the Cosmo II away in so many ways it aint even funny. The Cosmo II is seriously lacking when it comes to watercooling capability unless you want to get creative modding it.


Absolutely. I looked at it soooo many times, but it just never quite seemed to check off the right boxes on my "must have" list for a case. Which I always found disheartening considering it's sort of the gold standard for full towers.

Or rather, WAS the gold standard.


----------



## mixman

Considering I was about to buy the Cosmos II from Coolermaster refurbed for $220, I think I made the right choice with the Enthoo Primo. I had also considered the the 900D and still may buy it for my backup rig, but my main case will be the Enthoo.


----------



## COMBO2

Just ordered the Enthoo + 3 PH-F140SP fans. Putting a 420, 280 & 140 rad in there. I'll be able to go pick it up on the 12th of December. Bring it on!!


----------



## Roxycon

cant get enough rad











higher iso on the camera to give lightning justice but not as sharp picture


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *COMBO2*
> 
> Just ordered the Enthoo + 3 PH-F140SP fans. Putting a 420, 280 & 140 rad in there. I'll be able to go pick it up on the 12th of December. Bring it on!!


Be aware that the case fans IN the Enthoo are different than the ones ya ordered separate .... boxed ones have vibration pads which makes the fans 2 mm thicker...... don't mix on same side of the Rad (or ask Phanteks to send ya some pads) or it will be wobbly .


----------



## 6steven9

Noob question this is my first build an I just received the case and was looking at the wiring most of it seems pretty straight forward the only thing i'm not too sure about is which cable works the led strip I see 2 molox 1 female and 1 male one is 12v and one is led strip now do i connect these molox's together or am i connecting them directly to the psu??


----------



## Hereisphilly

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> Be aware that the case fans IN the Enthoo are different than the ones ya ordered separate .... boxed ones have vibration pads which makes the fans 2 mm thicker...... don't mix on same side of the Rad (or ask Phanteks to send ya some pads) or it will be wobbly .


Yeah that's really annoying! Did you manage to get some pads off phanteks?

I Was building for 6 hours straight last night, hopefully get some pics uploaded here, got a whole lot more to do today!


----------



## COMBO2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> Be aware that the case fans IN the Enthoo are different than the ones ya ordered separate .... boxed ones have vibration pads which makes the fans 2 mm thicker...... don't mix on same side of the Rad (or ask Phanteks to send ya some pads) or it will be wobbly .


Oh, well I guess I'll just use the 3 included on the top rad and the others fans for the other two rads. :L


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *COMBO2*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> Be aware that the case fans IN the Enthoo are different than the ones ya ordered separate .... boxed ones have vibration pads which makes the fans 2 mm thicker...... don't mix on same side of the Rad (or ask Phanteks to send ya some pads) or it will be wobbly .
> 
> 
> 
> Oh, well I guess I'll just use the 3 included on the top rad and the others fans for the other two rads. :L
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *COMBO2*
> 
> Oh, well I guess I'll just use the 3 included on the top rad and the others fans for the other two rads. :L


Jack, what thickness are the pads? Wonder if some rubber spacers the same thickness could be used on included case fans. Maybe something like car or bicycle inner tube cut to match and glue them in with a little rubber cement / contact glue.

Hopefully Phanteks can supply us with the stock pads.


----------



## aerial

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roxycon*
> 
> cant get enough rad
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/1748402/width/500/height/1000
> 
> higher iso on the camera to give lightning justice but not as sharp picture
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/1748404/width/500/height/1000


I like parallel loop, wish more people used it.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *6steven9*
> 
> Noob question this is my first build an I just received the case and was looking at the wiring most of it seems pretty straight forward the only thing i'm not too sure about is which cable works the led strip I see 2 molox 1 female and 1 male one is 12v and one is led strip now do i connect these molox's together or am i connecting them directly to the psu??


It's labeled .... "LED Strip" .... if ya trace it back, it goes to the front right corner of the case...Black Female Molex (That's female pins / male socket)\

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hereisphilly*
> 
> Yeah that's really annoying! Did you manage to get some pads off phanteks?
> 
> I Was building for 6 hours straight last night, hopefully get some pics uploaded here, got a whole lot more to do today!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *COMBO2*
> 
> Oh, well I guess I'll just use the 3 included on the top rad and the others fans for the other two rads. :L


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Jack, what thickness are the pads? Wonder if some rubber spacers the same thickness could be used on included case fans. Maybe something like car or bicycle inner tube cut to match and glue them in with a little rubber cement / contact glue.
> 
> Hopefully Phanteks can supply us with the stock pads.


yes, I sent an e-mail to Brian .... great response.... promptly sent me two front fan panel clickety (press to open / press to close) things and bunch of pads. They come with peel off adhesive backing......after going so, I realized ....

Take case top and bottom fan and pit on side panel; the use new fans fro rads. I will add the pads anyway to quite them up even in their use as case instead of rad fans. These are real nice pads ... shaped like triangle on top of another one .... kinda like an X-Mas tree









Each pad is 2.3mm thick (w/ backing on) .... Rad screws are countersunk so below pad and frame edges.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roxycon*
> 
> higher iso on the camera to give lightning justice but not as sharp picture
> 
> Looking at the tube routing, I'm apparently missing something .... how does that bridge route the flows ? Looks like it comes from pump and goes right thru bridge to CPU then back thru Bridge w/o going thru card blocks.
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *aerial*
> 
> I like parallel loop, wish more people used it.
> 
> 
> 
> My concern about bridge based parallel designs is:
> 
> 1. The block "blocks" view of the MoBo and when it's real perty as in the M6F, I didn't wanna block the view with that big bulky thing.
> 
> 2. I could never seem to see an "equal" flow path in the installation guide and figured it would always favor one card over the other. Always felt that the inlet should be between the two cards, tee up and down and tee back on the outlet side
> 
> So my plan at this point calls for splitting the flow before the cards with an identical tubing flow path to / from both. Any downsides that you see from this approach ?
Click to expand...


----------



## shiv15

Will the xspc photon 270 (no pump attached) fit on the res mount bracket? I have the r9 290 and eventually plan on two. I remember this being discussed earlier in the thread. Xt45 rad up top and monsta 480 on the bottom.


----------



## bond32

Just looked at my XSPC D5 bay res and saw a small puddle under it. I know it leaks, just didn't know it leaked that much. Glad the drive cage is slightly offset otherwise I think my drives would be shot. I have contacted them twice about it and have yet to get a response.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

The 290 may preclude leaving the res bracket in . Certainly CF will not fit if ya have 3 slot spacing (Slot Nos. 1 & 2 / 4 & 5)..... I measure 10.9" as the distance between the expansion slots and the res bracket. The Saphire 290 is listed on newegg as 10.9"(L) x 4.1"(W) x 1.4"(H) .... so it's gonna be literally "by a hair" if ya get it in.

Now that leaves ya about 67mm before ya hit the back of the 5.25" drives bays..... IIRC the Photon is 70mm in diameter. Now if ya wondering how I remember all this .... "been there done that" analysis









See post # 1000 .... should have all the data you'll need in the PDF attachment regarding dimensions. I really, really, really wanted a glass reservoir and the only ones I know of are the Photon and Aqualis..... neither fits.....I miss by about 2-3mm with the shorter 780 DCIIs.

I'd recommend the EKRes 3 - 250 ... will be ordering one myself today for the Enthoo


----------



## shiv15

I will most likely end up with the EK as the rest of my components are ek. I did find a few articles stating 10.5"and one at 10.8" for the 290pcb. Photon may fit then?


----------



## grifftech

Will a 360mm UT60 in push/pull fit in the top and in the bottom easily?


----------



## JackNaylorPE

XFX says 10.8 and HIS says 11.46" but I really don't see how they can be any different as they are all "reference cards". Looking at the pics, the only thing that is different, is teh sticker on the fam and the packaging.

My 780 Tis w/ EK WBs are 10.5" long ..... and since
Quote:


> I really, really, really wanted a glass reservoir and the only ones I know of are the Photon and Aqualis..... neither fits.....I miss by about 2-3mm with the shorter 780 DCIIs.


.... if you find a card that is also 10.5", I don't see it happening

Now if you wanted to try and re-drill and re-thread the holes on the reservoir bracket .... and ya sure ya won't be off by as much as 1mm, ya might be able to get it to fit.....getting the cards out without the reservoir would be a bear tho,


----------



## grifftech

Guys I am trying to find a 480 mm filter to put above the top rad in a push pull. The outside grill doesnt seem like it will catch much dust. Can you recommend a good one?


----------



## Hereisphilly

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *grifftech*
> 
> Guys I am trying to find a 480 mm filter to put above the top rad in a push pull. The outside grill doesnt seem like it will catch much dust. Can you recommend a good one?


If you aren't worried about looks, (i don't think it'll be too much of a concern if you keep the existing filter in place), then standard ladies tights sandwiched between the rad and 1st set of fans does the trick nicely


----------



## Hereisphilly

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> yes, I sent an e-mail to Brian .... great response.... promptly sent me two front fan panel clickety (press to open / press to close) things and bunch of pads. They come with peel off adhesive backing......after going so, I realized ....


Ah awesome, do you have the address? I doubt he'll send free ones to the UK, but I don't mind paying for them if they're available

I've currently got the three non-pad fans in the roof cavity on top of my rad, but as they're slightly thinner, the long bolts that come with Alphacool rads are too long.
To solve the problem I've got 5 M3 nylon washers under each bolt to raise it up. FYI 1 M3 nylon washer is perfect allow the bolts to hold the fans, as without them the head of the bolt is smaller than the fan screw hole


----------



## Roxycon

@jack, gpu blocks are less restrictive, whereas if you got strong enough pumps there will be water going through the cpu.. My fans is coupled with my corsair link and they range from 600-1400 rpm so in game tmy cpu is at ~60 degrees with a 4,6 ghz and my gpus at stock is hovering around 40-50..


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *grifftech*
> 
> Will a 360mm UT60 in push/pull fit in the top and in the bottom easily?


Fit in the case yes....clear ya MoBo heat sinks, allow ya access to cable connectors who knows.......480s fit in both top and bottom....420 fits in top, 280 fits in bottom.

BYW, (1) 420 + (1) 280 (515 watts @ 1250 rpm) gives 13% more cooling than (2) 360s (454 watts @ 1250 rpm) and ya can use the fans that come with the case w/ them

What fits where can be found at:

1. In the H20 possibilities video here
http://phanteks.com/#&panel1-1&panel2-1

2. In the Enthoo FAQ here
http://phanteks.com/Enthoo-Primo.html

3. In the Enthoo manual here
http://www.phanteks.com/assets/manuals/Enthoo-Primo.pdf

In addition, I'd suggest

1. You really should download the PDF in Post 1000 of this thread. It has all the case dimensions, clearances and what not.

2. Also look at Jesse's Review and FAQ over at the ModZoo....as it goes to the heart of your question.....he had a 60mm in there as I recall but took it out for a 45mm
http://themodzoo.com/forum/index.php?/page/articles.html/_/reviews/cases/phanteks-enthoo-primo-full-tower-review-r67?pg=6

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *grifftech*
> 
> Guys I am trying to find a 480 mm filter to put above the top rad in a push pull. The outside grill doesnt seem like it will catch much dust. Can you recommend a good one?


The outside grille won't.... but there's a filter on the underside of the grille already.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hereisphilly*
> 
> If you aren't worried about looks, (i don't think it'll be too much of a concern if you keep the existing filter in place), then standard ladies tights sandwiched between the rad and 1st set of fans does the trick nicely


But just don't take them from any lady, get permission first









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hereisphilly*
> 
> Ah awesome, do you have the address? I doubt he'll send free ones to the UK, but I don't mind paying for them if they're available
> 
> I've currently got the three non-pad fans in the roof cavity on top of my rad, but as they're slightly thinner, the long bolts that come with Alphacool rads are too long.
> To solve the problem I've got 5 M3 nylon washers under each bolt to raise it up. FYI 1 M3 nylon washer is perfect allow the bolts to hold the fans, as without them the head of the bolt is smaller than the fan screw hole


This is what worked for me
http://phanteks.com/forum/showthread.php?133-Enthoo-PH-F140SP-Fan-Issues

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roxycon*
> 
> @jack, gpu blocks are less restrictive, whereas if you got strong enough pumps there will be water going through the cpu.. My fans is coupled with my corsair link and they range from 600-1400 rpm so in game tmy cpu is at ~60 degrees with a 4,6 ghz and my gpus at stock is hovering around 40-50..


My thought was, I only have so much rad capacity and would prefer to use more of heat they are going to exhaust on the CPU rather than the GPUs....so aside from having dual loop, I *may* see some advantage with 2x flow going thru the CPU as compared with the GPUs. Theoretically, the idea is sound..... in practice, I'm thinking there will be some effect but certainly no where 2:1

I'd be happy with a 10-20% shift in heat load from the parallel install.

I still don't understand the routing of that bridge







.


----------



## 6steven9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> It's labeled .... "LED Strip" .... if ya trace it back, it goes to the front right corner of the case...Black Female Molex (That's female pins / male socket)


hmmm thank you but I was wondering how the 2 are connected because there is the 12v input (male) and the "led strip" (female) molex's connected to the same thing on the top corner of the case do I just connect them together easy as that? B/C my psu doesn't come with a 'male' molex connector for the led strip. It's probably such an easy answer i'm just new to this. Do I connect the 12v input to my psu but then that would leave the female led strip not connected to anything?


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *6steven9*
> 
> hmmm thank you but I was wondering how the 2 are connected because there is the 12v input (male) and the "led strip" (female) molex's connected to the same thing on the top corner of the case do I just connect them together easy as that? B/C my psu doesn't come with a 'male' molex connector for the led strip. It's probably such an easy answer i'm just new to this. Do I connect the 12v input to my psu but then that would leave the female led strip not connected to anything?


I'm not getting you.... what is the other part of the 2 ?

You have this doohickey hanging there with a label on it that says LED strip.... you don't wanna be thinking about connecting it to your PSU. It is already powered.

If the LED lights are on in your case, then the LED switch already has power coming to it. If you connect that to your PSU, it will be "powered" from both ends .... why would you want to do that ? When you buy an LED strip, you will need to put a connector on the end of it.... that is what you will connect to that Molex.

LED-Enthoo.pdf 134k .pdf file


Things you'll need (assuming ya don't have a crimping tool):

(1) LED Strip - http://www.amazon.com/LED-Outlets-Meter-Black-Waterproof-Flexible/dp/B00E9N7SX6

(1) Molex Connector - http://www.frozencpu.com/products/1926/ele-94/FrozenCPU_ConnectRight_Standard_4-pin_Male_Connector_-_Black.html?tl=g51c387s999

(2) Pre-selleved Molex Wire- http://www.frozencpu.com/products/16208/wir-29/ModSmart_Kobra_SS_Pre-Sleeved_Molex_Male_to_Female_Extension_Wire_-_16_-_Black_WIRE-M16MF-BK.html?tl=g2c551s1693

Use the male end of the wire in the connector and solder the female end of the wire to ya LED strip (cut off) connector before soldering .

If ya already equipped for sleeving, then gran the connector and use ya own sleeving and wires.

Looks like the 290 wasn't the only thing that has a huge effect on market prices. Seems the Enthoo made a splash too.... last time I looked, the 900D was $350 .... now $270
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811139019


----------



## 6steven9

Ah I think I finally understand so the led strip molex female plug is only used if I plan to buy some other type of led strip or something so if i'm just using the case default lights I don't have to worry about that cable at all, and the 12v molex male plug I would only plug into the psu if I need the power for the lights that I would have plugged into the led strip molex thanks I knew it was something simply +REP


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *6steven9*
> 
> Ah I think I finally understand so the led strip molex female plug is only used if I plan to buy some other type of led strip or something so if i'm just using the case default lights I don't have to worry about that cable at all,


Correctomundo !
Quote:


> and the 12v molex male plug I would only plug into the psu if I need the power for the lights that I would have plugged into the led strip molex thanks I knew it was something simply +REP


No...look at the PDF...the 12v input line is what sends power to all the LED's in the entire system.

You went from having two sources of power to having no sources of power









PSU ==> *12V Input ==> LED Switch*

*LED Switch ==> PST Connector ==> FAN 1 LED
LED Switch ==>PST Connector ==>FAN 2 LED*
*LED Switch ==> PST Connector* ==>FAN 3 LED
*LED Switch ==> PST Connector* ==>FAN 4 LED
*LED Switch ==> PST Connector* ==>FAN 5 LED
*LED Switch ==> PST Connector* ==>FAN 6 LED
*LED Switch ==> PST Connector* ==>[FAN 6 LED
*LED Switch ==>Molex* ==> LED Strip

The above is the basic wiring .... the stuff in bold is pre-wired. You need to do the underlined part ... the rest is optional


----------



## 6steven9

Excellent that makes my brain happy







the case is sooo beautiful and massive


----------



## JackNaylorPE

That it is .... be careful .... wifie might get a lil cranky w/ a new girl in the house getting all the attention ...... (substitute husband,, GF, BF, "other" as appropriate)


----------



## Scorpion49

So I finally got around to installing some stuff in the case, only to find out the rear panel was badly bowed out. Luckily I was able to just grab the front and back and squeeze them together and it seems to have fixed it. Was about to be really angry.










Few little snippets of my test run with the case today before I order water parts.


----------



## 6steven9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scorpion49*
> 
> So I finally got around to installing some stuff in the case, only to find out the rear panel was badly bowed out. Luckily I was able to just grab the front and back and squeeze them together and it seems to have fixed it. Was about to be really angry.


What do you mean by "Bowed Out" is that pushed out or like bent outward?


----------



## Scorpion49

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *6steven9*
> 
> What do you mean by "Bowed Out" is that pushed out or like bent outward?


Yes. It might be hard to see in the picture but the bottom of the expansion cards would touch the slot but the top would be 5mm or so away.


----------



## ADragg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> Be aware that the case fans IN the Enthoo are different than the ones ya ordered separate .... boxed ones have vibration pads which makes the fans 2 mm thicker...... don't mix on same side of the Rad (or ask Phanteks to send ya some pads) or it will be wobbly .


Are the stock fans the same as the PH-F140SP otherwise? I didn't realize they already had a fan available for purchase. I thought everyone has been waiting for them to release the fans so they can buy more? If they're different, is there something better about the stock ones that I would rather use them? One last question, are the stock ones good for using on radiators (SP)? I'm finally about to order everything for my loop and wasn't sure if I should harvest 3 of the stock fans for the 420 rad, or buy more Corsair SP's or buy another brand like Noiseblocker, etc. But if the PH-F140SP is just as good on radiators and just as quiet, etc as the stock ones, then I'll probably get some of those.


----------



## Hereisphilly

Sneak peek!


----------



## doyll

@ Scorpion49, it looks like the back panel bent in the area between I/O opening and PCI slot causing top of PCI slots to be farther back the they are supposed to be. I'm guessing the miss-alignment got bigger the closer the PCI slot was to CPU? As cases are packed in box with back down I can understand how dropping could cause that kind of bend/bowing damage.

@ Hereisphilly, Looking very nice! Love the thick radiators!


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ADragg*
> 
> Are the stock fans the same as the PH-F140SP otherwise? I didn't realize they already had a fan available for purchase. I thought everyone has been waiting for them to release the fans so they can buy more? If they're different, is there something better about the stock ones that I would rather use them? One last question, are the stock ones good for using on radiators (SP)? I'm finally about to order everything for my loop and wasn't sure if I should harvest 3 of the stock fans for the 420 rad, or buy more Corsair SP's or buy another brand like Noiseblocker, etc. But if the PH-F140SP is just as good on radiators and just as quiet, etc as the stock ones, then I'll probably get some of those.


The on;y difference is the one I referred to. Ay the corners there's these little indentations. On the case fans they empty, in the retail boxes, they have "peel and stick" pads for vibration isolation. That's the only difference hat i have observed.

The 140 SP is an oustanding fan.... it outperformed every other fan tested ay spcr. Specs are on their web site

http://phanteks.com/PH-F140SP.html (specs tab)

http://www.hitechlegion.com/reviews/cooling/heatsinks/37419-phanteks-f140?showall=&start=3
Quote:


> It often feels like Phanteks can do no wrong. Time after time, they deliver products that are either clearly top of their class, or merely arguably the top of their class. The new breed of fans, the 140XP and SP, do nothing to change that. Construction and performance are spot on, while noise to air movement is excellent. I have been fortunate enough to have been using seven of these in a build for the last month, and time has done nothing but make me like them more.
> 
> As case fans, the 140SP and 140XP are very controlled, and able to move excellent amounts of air through the case. This would be expected given the specs, but what is not expected is how quietly they manage to do this. First off, there is no discernible mechanical noise from either iteration of the fan. The bearing is dead silent, and there is no ticking, buzz or hum often associated with PWM present in the 140XP. The other factor is the actual pitch of the fan, which is lower than most 140mm fans we have encountered. There is no whine or high pitches of any kind. This makes the 140SP and XP far less intrusive even at higher speeds. At lower speeds, the air movement is substantial, but even in the front intake position there is no real discernible noise until ~850rpm, and they never become distracting when pushed beyond that.
> 
> While the fans are essentially the same with PWM added to the F140XP, that also adds some perks. The PWM control allows the F140XP to be run all the way down to 300rpm for absolute silence. The lower speeds also allow the static pressure to increase ~15%, making them an excellent choice for 140mm factor radiators. The 140SP serves very, very well on radiators also with good static pressure and low noise.
> 
> Phanteks has done well with their new 140mm fans, and have even included a blue LED version to the lineup. Performance is excellent, and really takes a back seat to no other 140mm fan. The F140SP and XP have excellent build quality, nice cabling with black sleeving to the ends and include extension cables with the same. The PWM F140XP also includes low noise adapters as a bonus. With a price point in the middle of the pack of 140mm fans, there is no doubt that the F140SP and F140XP represent an incredible value and are very deserving of Hi Tech Legion's Editor's Choice Award.


http://www.silentpcreview.com/article1345-page7.html
Quote:


> The Phanteks PH-F140HP/TS is the clear winner in every respect. It edged out the new Noctuas every step of the way, delivering the best overall results of any fan we've tested thus far. To top it off, it had cleanest, smoothest sound of all the new fans in this roundup. If we had to start from scratch, this might be our new reference model.


I see no reason to even think about another fan unless you want high speed but thatz a place I'm not interested in going.

I did get an e-mail from Noiseblocker indicating that they have new 140mm fans in development....wouldn't talk about timing tho.


----------



## Scorpion49

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> @ Scorpion49, it looks like the back panel bent in the area between I/O opening and PCI slot causing top of PCI slots to be farther back the they are supposed to be. I'm guessing the miss-alignment got bigger the closer the PCI slot was to CPU? As cases are packed in box with back down I can understand how dropping could cause that kind of bend/bowing damage.
> 
> @ Hereisphilly, Looking very nice! Love the thick radiators!


It was an easy fix, just grab both edges and pull.


----------



## doyll

Phanteks PH-F140TS/HP are very good..







I'm hearing claims of PH-F140HP being PWM but the three I own have 3pin fan plugs and 3 wires into fan motor.








.
I assume the PH-F140SP is as good.
PH-F140XP is PWM version.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> .
> I assume the PH-F140SP is as good.


Same fan, different colors and frame shape.

Quote:


> PH-F140XP is PWM version.


Yup...has more SP / flow too.....1.52 versus 1.33 as i recall ... also 85 CFM versus 82 CFM


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Well, I sure hope my latest round of parts ordered for this build isn't going to arrived damaged.
It was supposed to be delivered on the 14th. I've sure never seen a reason like this for a delay before ...


----------



## shiv15

I think I will use the phanteks on the 420 rad in the case. A nice cost save instead of buying 6 different fans. You made a strong case for their use. Has there been any testing on performance with rads?


----------



## Hereisphilly

And we're done!!!!!
What do you guys think? Its my 1st time water cooling btw, but I hope i've done a good job
FYI there is a 420 XT45, a 280 monsta and a 240 XT 45 stuffed in there






I'd just like to say big thanks to everyone here, especially @jassilamba for providing measurements and giving advice/answers to all my questions
Thanks to you all the gear I had bought and the route I had planned fitted perfectly!
I have a whole load of photos from the build that I'm thinking of doing a build log for over on the zoo, just so people like me who are new to watercolling can see that its not that hard if you plan carefully


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shiv15*
> 
> I think I will use the phanteks on the 420 rad in the case. A nice cost save instead of buying 6 different fans. You made a strong case for their use. Has there been any testing on performance with rads?


The SPCR testing was done on air coolers in which the fin spacing is far tighter then on rads....if it does well there, don't see why it wouldn't in Rads.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Gratz Philly ..... I'm picking up my last box of parts from Frozen on Tuesday...... feels like I'm going on trip to mecca







..... 2nd GFX card arrives Monday..... looks like no work Wednesday thru Friday.







... this weekend be done hopefully.


----------



## McSasquatch

Nicely done philly. Looks great!

Did you do those tri-coloured sleeves yourself or did you buy them somewhere?


----------



## celmaitarero

Hi guys,

From yesterday, im a happy owner of a Primo!


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hereisphilly*
> 
> And we're done!!!!!
> What do you guys think? Its my 1st time water cooling btw, but I hope i've done a good job
> FYI there is a 420 XT45, a 280 monsta and a 240 XT 45 stuffed in there
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'd just like to say big thanks to everyone here, especially @jassilamba for providing measurements and giving advice/answers to all my questions
> Thanks to you all the gear I had bought and the route I had planned fitted perfectly!
> I have a whole load of photos from the build that I'm thinking of doing a build log for over on the zoo, just so people like me who are new to watercolling can see that its not that hard if you plan carefully


Looks great! You do good work. Let's hope your Hermes package arrives tomorrow.


----------



## Hereisphilly

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Looks great! You do good work. Let's hope your Hermes package arrives tomorrow.


Thanks! Hope so mate! Defo gonna get some more pics with it on it, but I need to work out a plan to get it on it 1st, the thing must be at least 50kg!

Man its whisper quiet, and I have great temps while I dial in some beasty overclocks!


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *celmaitarero*
> 
> Hi guys,
> 
> From yesterday, im a happy owner of a Primo!


Yeayyyyy !


----------



## Hereisphilly

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *McSasquatch*
> 
> Nicely done philly. Looks great!
> 
> Did you do those tri-coloured sleeves yourself or did you buy them somewhere?


Thanks! I Did them myself, bought 2 shades of grey and some black paracord, then used the heatshinkless method. Did all the cables on my PSU, it took forever and I got through 300 feet of cord, but I think it was worth it as it looks ace and is so much easier to manage than the fat twisted cables that comes as standard


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hereisphilly*
> 
> Thanks! Hope so mate! Defo gonna get some more pics with it on it, but I need to work out a plan to get it on it 1st, the thing must be at least 50kg!
> 
> Man its whisper quiet, and I have great temps while I dial in some beasty overclocks!


Castors are rated 50kg each so should be fine.









Gotta love these "whisper quiet" builds.


----------



## paulyoung

I'm glad to say that I bit the bullet and ordered the Enthoo on Friday with luck it should be here in the morning. But before any building starts I need to dig out the Dremel. The front drive bay plate has to be cut in half and what was the bottom with the Phanteks plaque on will be mounted up top, thus allowing me to fit my Monsta 420 on the bottom.

And next will be quite drastic if I have the balls to try it anyway. I need to figure a way to fit my XL-ATX motherboard in. My plan up till now is to, remove the standofs and the rear io / pcie bracket and replace with a spare one I have ripped out of an old case and then drill and tap new stadof holes for motherboard fitment. It should give me enough room as my top rad is only a 30mm thick. If all goes to plan it should fit like a glove. If not a new motherboard, but I'd rather not resort to that.

I'd better crack on with finishing my sleeving my cables 2 more 6 pins the 24 pin and the 8 pin eps to do, I've never tried this before and I'm shocked on how time consuming it actually is.


----------



## Hereisphilly

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paulyoung*
> 
> I'd better crack on with finishing my sleeving my cables 2 more 6 pins the 24 pin and the 8 pin eps to do, I've never tried this before and I'm shocked on how time consuming it actually is.


Oh tell me about it! When I did mine I was at it every night after work and it took me 2 weeks! My fingers were shot to bits after ramming 2 staples into each pin and then molding the melted paracord for each wire!


----------



## Hereisphilly

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Castors are rated 50kg each so should be fine.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Gotta love these "whisper quiet" builds.


The fans in the case are AMAZING
my pump is by far the loudest thing in the case


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paulyoung*
> 
> I'm glad to say that I bit the bullet and ordered the Enthoo on Friday with luck it should be here in the morning. But before any building starts I need to dig out the Dremel. The front drive bay plate has to be cut in half and what was the bottom with the Phanteks plaque on will be mounted up top, thus allowing me to fit my Monsta 420 on the bottom.
> 
> And next will be quite drastic if I have the balls to try it anyway. I need to figure a way to fit my XL-ATX motherboard in. My plan up till now is to, remove the standofs and the rear io / pcie bracket and replace with a spare one I have ripped out of an old case and then drill and tap new stadof holes for motherboard fitment. It should give me enough room as my top rad is only a 30mm thick. If all goes to plan it should fit like a glove. If not a new motherboard, but I'd rather not resort to that.
> 
> I'd better crack on with finishing my sleeving my cables 2 more 6 pins the 24 pin and the 8 pin eps to do, I've never tried this before and I'm shocked on how time consuming it actually is.


I think you only need to make I/O 20mm longer at top and move mounts up 20mm.


----------



## paulyoung

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hereisphilly*
> 
> Oh tell me about it! When I did mine I was at it every night after work and it took me 2 weeks! My fingers were shot to bits after ramming 2 staples into each pin and then molding the melted paracord for each wire!


I no mate I had to stop for a week, my tool is crap, I have to push it in 1 side at a time and pull like hell, to get the pin out. It was that hard my forefinger has a cut on the tip and another further down the exact length of a six pin. They are that bad I couldn't do the compression fittings up on my bench for a temp rig. I'm nearly there I've just done another molex.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> I think you only need to make I/O 20mm longer at top and move mounts up 20mm.


Yep that's what I guessed, I was hoping that there was enough room between the bottom of a regular ATX and the psu shroud but apparently not. I haven't seen the case in the flesh so all I can do is imagine what I can do. I might not even have the balls to cut up a £200 case and just use my Z77 until I can sell a kidney to buy a new board.


----------



## McSasquatch

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hereisphilly*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *McSasquatch*
> 
> Nicely done philly. Looks great!
> 
> Did you do those tri-coloured sleeves yourself or did you buy them somewhere?
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks! I Did them myself, bought 2 shades of grey and some black paracord, then used the heatshinkless method. Did all the cables on my PSU, it took forever and I got through 300 feet of cord, but I think it was worth it as it looks ace and is so much easier to manage than the fat twisted cables that comes as standard
Click to expand...

It does look great - think your hard work paid off big time!


----------



## ADragg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> The on;y difference is the one I referred to. Ay the corners there's these little indentations. On the case fans they empty, in the retail boxes, they have "peel and stick" pads for vibration isolation. That's the only difference hat i have observed.
> 
> The 140 SP is an oustanding fan.... it outperformed every other fan tested ay spcr. Specs are on their web site
> 
> http://phanteks.com/PH-F140SP.html (specs tab)
> 
> http://www.hitechlegion.com/reviews/cooling/heatsinks/37419-phanteks-f140?showall=&start=3
> http://www.silentpcreview.com/article1345-page7.html
> I see no reason to even think about another fan unless you want high speed but thatz a place I'm not interested in going.
> 
> I did get an e-mail from Noiseblocker indicating that they have new 140mm fans in development....wouldn't talk about timing tho.


Cool, thanks Jack. I just wanted to make sure the packaged ones were the same fan blade/motor, etc. I think maybe the upcoming Noiseblocker 140's is what I was thinking about. But I'll go with the Phanteks to keep things matching and because I know they're excellent fans.

However, mine currently aren't working due to something software related (I think). I made a separate thread in Air Cooling but I may as well summarize here since there's a lot of helpful people in this thread: I have my 5 Phanteks fans plugged into the fan hub and the hub plugged into the CPU OPT header. This has worked since I got the case, but I tried making a custom fan profile with Asus' AI Suite III and their Fan Xpert. I ran the Benchmark which generates a profile and now the fans don't work. When I boot the machine, they work and when I'm in the BIOS they work, but when I boot to the start screen, something software takes over and turns them off. What's puzzling, is I have uninstalled Asus' 4-Way Optimization software (which is where FanXpert is located) and the fans are still being kept off somehow. Uninstalling the software didn't fix it. I also downloaded a new fan controller called SpeedFan and it doesn't recognize any fans being plugged into my system at all. Not sure what I did but it's really bugging me trying to figure it out. I know the fans work and the hub IS plugged into the Molex to get the extra power, but something software based is loading upon boot up and keeping the fans turned off.

BTW, I can also plug the hub into a regular FAN input on the Mobo, but then they're at full speed. I think they need to be on CPU OPT to be controllable.


----------



## ADragg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hereisphilly*
> 
> Oh tell me about it! When I did mine I was at it every night after work and it took me 2 weeks! My fingers were shot to bits after ramming 2 staples into each pin and then molding the melted paracord for each wire!


Is it that hard? I ordered MDPC sleeving, does anyone know if that make it easier than para chord? I figure for the most part it's just pull the pin out of the plug, slip the sleeving over, and use the pre cut shrink tubing that MDPC sells to hold the ends. Seems like it should be really easy and quick.


----------



## ADragg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hereisphilly*
> 
> The fans in the case are AMAZING
> my pump is by far the loudest thing in the case


Which fans did you get exactly? The PH-F140SP or PH-F140XP or? Also, which pump is that and is it mounted on the pump bracket built into the case? Pump is one thing I haven't yet decided on for my build, but I want to make use of the pedestal/bracket since it's there and so nice. I'll be pushing a GPU and CPU block with a 420 60mm rad on top and a 240 60mm rad on bottom, as well as a 250mm tube res.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hereisphilly*
> 
> Oh tell me about it! When I did mine I was at it every night after work and it took me 2 weeks! My fingers were shot to bits after ramming 2 staples into each pin and then molding the melted paracord for each wire!


http://www.frozencpu.com/products/3836/too-07/FrozenCPU_Dual_Head_ATX_Connector_Removal_Tool_ATX_4-pin_P4_6-pin_PCI-E_8-pin_Xeon_Auxiliary_3-pin_or_4-pin_Fan_Flop.html?tl=g2c133s257

Works like a charm ... well after I dremel ground the edges to a sharper edge.

This one doubles as a "torpedo" to drag the wires thru the sleeve

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/3835/too-05/Dual_Ended_Universal_Molex_Removal_Tool.html?tl=g2c133s257
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ADragg*
> 
> BTW, I can also plug the hub into a regular FAN input on the Mobo, but then they're at full speed. I think they need to be on CPU OPT to be controllable.


This works on the OP-1 thru OPT_3 MoBo Headers

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/10373/ex-tub-620/Bitspower_G_14_Temperature_Sensor_Stop_Fitting_-_Matte_Black_BP-MBWP-CT.html?tl=c101s457b145

or ya can get one of these:

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/21571/bus-366/Reeven_RFC-01_Six_Eyes_525_Bay_Fan_Controller_Temperature_Display_-_Black.html

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ADragg*
> 
> Which fans did you get exactly? The PH-F140SP or PH-F140XP or? Also, which pump is that and is it mounted on the pump bracket built into the case? Pump is one thing I haven't yet decided on for my build, but I want to make use of the pedestal/bracket since it's there and so nice. I'll be pushing a GPU and CPU block with a 420 60mm rad on top and a 240 60mm rad on bottom, as well as a 250mm tube res.


I don't think the PWMs work on the header..... would work on the modmytoys or swiftech pwm headers tho

I used the 35x2 but had to make a mounting bracket for the pump skid....it's HUGE


----------



## Hereisphilly

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ADragg*
> 
> Is it that hard? I ordered MDPC sleeving, does anyone know if that make it easier than para chord? I figure for the most part it's just pull the pin out of the plug, slip the sleeving over, and use the pre cut shrink tubing that MDPC sells to hold the ends. Seems like it should be really easy and quick.


Oh it's easy enough, the hardest part is getting the pin out of the plug. The tool I bought for atx pins was terrible, so I researched a bit and found that 2 staples bent straight and pushed into the plug did the trick.

I went with paracord cos I love the close weave that it gives.
Didn't use heat shrink as I didn't want anything showing on the cables. To achieve that I used a lighter and melted the paracord around the end of each pin. Also doing it that way was so much cheaper as I have loads of cables on my 1000w PSU!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ADragg*
> 
> Which fans did you get exactly? The PH-F140SP or PH-F140XP or? Also, which pump is that and is it mounted on the pump bracket built into the case? Pump is one thing I haven't yet decided on for my build, but I want to make use of the pedestal/bracket since it's there and so nice. I'll be pushing a GPU and CPU block with a 420 60mm rad on top and a 240 60mm rad on bottom, as well as a 250mm tube res.


I bought 8 additional F140SP fans as I wanted to use the pwm hub (which doesn't control pwm fans), and they work great.

The pump is a D5 vario with the big aftermarket acetal top from Alphacool. I think it looks awesome with the copper plugs, and our allows the use of threaded connections which the standard top doesn't

The metal mounting plate that came with the pump doesn't like up with the holes in the pump bracket (you can only get 1 screw in). Fortunately if you take the plate off there are 4 tapped holes in the base of the top itself, and these line up great with the bundled pump bracket
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/3836/too-07/FrozenCPU_Dual_Head_ATX_Connector_Removal_Tool_ATX_4-pin_P4_6-pin_PCI-E_8-pin_Xeon_Auxiliary_3-pin_or_4-pin_Fan_Flop.html?tl=g2c133s257
> 
> Works like a charm ... well after I dremel ground the edges to a sharper edge.
> 
> This one doubles as a "torpedo" to drag the wires thru the sleeve
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/3835/too-05/Dual_Ended_Universal_Molex_Removal_Tool.html?tl=g2c133s257


Yeah I had a very similar tool for the atx pins and it was useless! the two prongs were just a bit to close together, so when you pushed it into the plug they separated and didn't engage the pins! Straight bent Staples were much better for me

I had that exact molex tool, and it did the job perfect for molex pins, but I was using paracord which wasn't much bigger than the wire (gives a nice tight look this way), so the tool wouldn't fit down the paracord! Ended up just masking taping over each pin and then dragging it through


----------



## celmaitarero

Hi guys,

Like I said, Friday I received my case!
Now, can someone tell my, if I can put Phobya G-Changer 480 V.2 (60 mm thickness) in top with a push/pull, if a I have Gigabyte GA-Z87X-UD5H, MOBO!
Thanks!

I really dont have the time, right now, to read all the post..... sorry!


----------



## paulyoung

To be honest mate I think it is more down to the connectors than the tool. I'm using the original cables on my XFX psu, there isn't much room, if any to slip the tool in both sides. I've got 2 tools and have tried one at a time with them both with no luck. Iv'e got the hang of it now, and my hands are all plastered up and am about to start the last 6 pin.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Don't have the heights of ya MoBo Heatsink ...... if anything will be a problem that's it .... also the 8 pin (and 4 pin if ya have it) EPS plugs next tot he CPU. I don't think you will have a problem with the 480..... I used a 45 mm thick 420 for the extra cooling area and it's just fit width wise ..... it cleared anyway cause of the 45mm depth instead of 60 but the 60mm wuda just cleared the M6F HS by a mm or 2. The 8 pin EPS wuda been a problem tho .... see pics here:

http://themodzoo.com/forum/index.php?/page/articles.html/_/reviews/cases/phanteks-enthoo-primo-full-tower-review-r67?pg=6


----------



## Hereisphilly

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *celmaitarero*
> 
> Hi guys,
> 
> Like I said, Friday I received my case!
> Now, can someone tell my, if I can put Phobya G-Changer 480 V.2 (60 mm thickness) in top with a push/pull, if a I have Gigabyte GA-Z87X-UD5H, MOBO!
> Thanks!
> 
> I really dont have the time, right now, to read all the post..... sorry!


I have your exact motherboard, and I could have gotten away with a 60mm thick 140mm wide rad, as it just just just would have fitted, so a 60mm thick 120mm wide rad will work fine.
I went with the 45 thick rad as i don't know what my next motherboard will be and so i didn't want to be constrained by it!


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Hey Philly ....









How'd you find getting the 420 in ? It was a perty tight squeeeze with significant rubbing involved (rad to case) when I had to twist and tilt into place. While the 60mm would fit in the case .... I didn't think it would be possible to twist into place.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paulyoung*
> 
> To be honest mate I think it is more down to the connectors than the tool. I'm using the original cables on my XFX psu, there isn't much room, if any to slip the tool in both sides. I've got 2 tools and have tried one at a time with them both with no luck. Iv'e got the hang of it now, and my hands are all plastered up and am about to start the last 6 pin.


I had to take a grinding wheel on my dremel to file the tool down to a sharper edge ..... then it worked just grand.


----------



## jassilamba

Glad to see some nice builds in this case finally. I finally got my loop drained last night, luckly the drain port on the 480 was in the front, and with just a little spill, I was able to drain the loop without any issues. My Enthoo build is officially no more. The hardware is back in their respective boxes, and the case is ready to meet to my Dremel.

Time for a new rebuild in the Enthoo.


----------



## celmaitarero

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hereisphilly*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *celmaitarero*
> 
> Hi guys,
> 
> Like I said, Friday I received my case!
> Now, can someone tell my, if I can put Phobya G-Changer 480 V.2 (60 mm thickness) in top with a push/pull, if a I have Gigabyte GA-Z87X-UD5H, MOBO!
> Thanks!
> 
> I really dont have the time, right now, to read all the post..... sorry!
> 
> 
> 
> I have your exact motherboard, and I could have gotten away with a 60mm thick 140mm wide rad, as it just just just would have fitted, so a 60mm thick 120mm wide rad will work fine.
> I went with the 45 thick rad as i don't know what my next motherboard will be and so i didn't want to be constrained by it!
Click to expand...

Thanks!
But......are you sure!? For a push/pull configuration!? 480.60 rad!?

Sent from my iPhone 4s using Tapatalk 2


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jassilamba*
> 
> Glad to see some nice builds in this case finally. I finally got my loop drained last night, luckly the drain port on the 480 was in the front, and with just a little spill, I was able to drain the loop without any issues. My Enthoo build is officially no more. The hardware is back in their respective boxes, and the case is ready to meet to my Dremel.
> 
> Time for a new rebuild in the Enthoo.


Look forward to seeing what you do mate.


----------



## Hereisphilly

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> Hey Philly ....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> How'd you find getting the 420 in ? It was a perty tight squeeeze with significant rubbing involved (rad to case) when I had to twist and tilt into place. While the 60mm would fit in the case .... I didn't think it would be possible to twist into place.
> I had to take a grinding wheel on my dremel to file the tool down to a sharper edge ..... then it worked just grand.


It was a bit of a pain, I had put the 1st set of inner fans in it already, and didnt fancy twisting anything as i had the mobo already in!
I ended up sliding it in through the front. Took all the Drive covers out and it goes in, just... Bit of rubbing happened, but it didn't damage the rad. That was an Alphacool one tho, if a hardware labs or wider variant was used I don't think it would go in that way
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *celmaitarero*
> 
> Thanks!
> But......are you sure!? For a push/pull configuration!? 480.60 rad!?
> 
> Sent from my iPhone 4s using Tapatalk 2


Yeah it would go, I'm running push pull with a 45mm and there is plenty of room, I'll see if I can get a pic for you


----------



## Hereisphilly

On another note, the castor base from my main man @doyll has arrived! Ready for the install!
Looks mint, will get some more pics up, hit him up if you want a base making, the quality is outstanding!


----------



## chrisnyc75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hereisphilly*
> 
> It was a bit of a pain, I had put the 1st set of inner fans in it already, and didnt fancy twisting anything as i had the mobo already in!
> I ended up sliding it in through the front. Took all the Drive covers out and it goes in, just... Bit of rubbing happened, but it didn't damage the rad. That was an Alphacool one tho, if a hardware labs or wider variant was used I don't think it would go in that way
> Yeah it would go, I'm running push pull with a 45mm and there is plenty of room, I'll see if I can get a pic for you


Funny, I had no trouble getting the top rad in at all -- it was the bottom one that gave me a headache. It's really a rather narrow space, perfectly fitted for a 120mm rad, but when you factor in the rubber grommet on the cable pass-through plus 3 fan wires it's kinda tricky to get it manuevered in so that the screw holes line up perfectly to be anchored down (and I'm willing to bet a Black Ice or wider rad wouldn't fit down there at all). Maybe an optional 360/480 rad mounting plate, rather than just the 240 already included, would be a welcome addition in EP v2.0


----------



## Hereisphilly

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chrisnyc75*
> 
> Funny, I had no trouble getting the top rad in at all -- it was the bottom one that gave me a headache. It's really a rather narrow space, perfectly fitted for a 120mm rad, but when you factor in the rubber grommet on the cable pass-through plus 3 fan wires it's kinda tricky to get it manuevered in so that the screw holes line up perfectly to be anchored down (and I'm willing to bet a Black Ice or wider rad wouldn't fit down there at all). Maybe an optional 360/480 rad mounting plate, rather than just the 240 already included, would be a welcome addition in EP v2.0


Were you using 120mm wide rads? I have 140mm wide ones in the top and bottom and they were difficult to get in


----------



## Hooy

Phanteks' customer service was really slow (took 4 days and a reminder email just to get a response) and surprisingly vague. They told me to ship back the broken front panel, but not to where and didn't provide a label. I had to harass them twice now for information/responses.

Anyway, what do you guys think of this water loop? I am 100% new to this and have just started researching as of last night.

XSPC Raystorm red LED or Koolance 380i
XSPC Razor Titan red LED or Swiftech Komodo
NZXT dual bay res + MPC655 variable
Monsta 480 bottom
Alphacool XT45 480 top
Some kind of compression fittings (angled/swivel?)
Some kind of tubing

My setup:
RIVE Black Edition
4930K
GTX 780 SC ACX SLI
4x8gb Trident X 2400mhz
Seasonic 1000W
1TB SSD
2x harddrives


----------



## Hereisphilly

Based on the picture above, what do you guys think about me trying to fit an ST30 140mm rad on the rear fan? Do you think I have room and if so what tubing route would I take?
I'm thinking cutting the tubing coming from the lower rad, and making that one go into a 90 degree inlet above it on the new rear rad, then taking another 90 degree outlet and going straight up again to the top one, then carrying on with the loop as normal

I'm also going to get the phobya balancer replacement 250mm tube, as my 150mm looks really too small!

Edit: maybe this photo shows it a bit better


----------



## grifftech

Has anyone tried modding the door to open from the other side?


----------



## Hereisphilly

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hooy*
> 
> Phanteks' customer service was really slow (took 4 days and a reminder email just to get a response) and surprisingly vague. They told me to ship back the broken front panel, but not to where and didn't provide a label. I had to harass them twice now for information/responses.
> 
> Anyway, what do you guys think of this water loop? I am 100% new to this and have just started researching as of last night.
> 
> XSPC Raystorm red LED or Koolance 380i
> XSPC Razor Titan red LED or Swiftech Komodo
> NZXT dual bay res + MPC655 variable
> Monsta 480 bottom
> Alphacool XT45 480 top
> Some kind of compression fittings (angled/swivel?)
> Some kind of tubing
> 
> My setup:
> RIVE Black Edition
> 4930K
> GTX 780 SC ACX SLI
> 4x8gb Trident X 2400mhz
> Seasonic 1000W
> 1TB SSD
> 2x harddrives


Am I reading that right? 1TB SSD??? Man you must have some cash to burn
Yeah setup looks good, it will all fit fine, if you don't mind ditching your bottom hard drive cages
The Koolance is a better block for socket 2011, so that would get my vote
As for your tubing, when i read up the general response was that tubing diameter doesn't make any difference to temps, so go on what looks good for you. Smaller tubing allows for tighter bends and is a bit easier to manipulate, but large tubing i think looks boss.
Also plan your route first so you know what fittings to buy (angled or not), that way you don't end up with a surplus of ones you don't use. If you can try and minimise the amount of 90 degree fittings you use as they add resistance to the loop


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *grifftech*
> 
> Has anyone tried modding the door to open from the other side?


Not seen anything like that, and just looking at it there are quite a few obstacles to even trying it. I don't want to say that it's not possible - anything is possible - but because the two sides are not symmetrical in design it's definitely not as simple as flipping it over and I can't see any way that it would end up looking or working out very well. You might be better off just removing the door altogether, but that wouldn't look all that hot either.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hereisphilly*
> 
> Am I reading that right? 1TB SSD??? Man you must have some cash to burn [...]


Samsung EVO SSDs really aren't all that expensive at all comparatively. Samsung is shaking up SSD pricing. A 1TB is roughly about the same cost as that RIVBE mobo or the 4930K CPU.

I'll be adding at least one 1TB SSD to my build. For now.
Quote:


> [...] Yeah setup looks good, it will all fit fine, if you don't mind ditching your bottom hard drive cages [...]


A 480 monsta will fit in the bottom, even in push-pull, with the top HDD cage in place.
(edit: maybe that's what you meant. I might have been thrown off by the plural "cages" in thinking you meant both the top and the bottom cage).


----------



## chrisnyc75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hereisphilly*
> 
> Were you using 120mm wide rads? I have 140mm wide ones in the top and bottom and they were difficult to get in


Yeah, 120mm wide, both triples. Alphacool XT45 on top and Monsta on the bottom. I can't imagine how you'd get a 420 in the bottom? A 280, sure, but not a triple or quad.


----------



## Hooy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hereisphilly*
> 
> Am I reading that right? 1TB SSD??? Man you must have some cash to burn
> Yeah setup looks good, it will all fit fine, if you don't mind ditching your bottom hard drive cages
> The Koolance is a better block for socket 2011, so that would get my vote
> As for your tubing, when i read up the general response was that tubing diameter doesn't make any difference to temps, so go on what looks good for you. Smaller tubing allows for tighter bends and is a bit easier to manipulate, but large tubing i think looks boss.
> Also plan your route first so you know what fittings to buy (angled or not), that way you don't end up with a surplus of ones you don't use. If you can try and minimise the amount of 90 degree fittings you use as they add resistance to the loop


hey hey, anyone who spent the money on watercooling could've easily afforded a 1TB SSD instead xD

I don't mind ditching the bottom drives since I only have 3 total and don't plan on getting more for a while

I was thinking the same thing about 1/2" tubing. I had 1/2 barbs and compression fittings in my cart since I wasn't too worried about tight bends with this giant case.

I looked at Martin's and Stren's reviews and it only seemed like only a 3C difference with the Raystorm being less restrictive. What am I missing? Also, what are your thoughts on aesthetics for the build I have going on? Red LED's on the GPU's and CPU I feel would be nice as opposed to a bright silver X in the middle of what is otherwise black and red.


----------



## Hereisphilly

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Samsung EVO SSDs really aren't all that expensive at all comparatively. Samsung is shaking up SSD pricing. A 1TB is roughly about the same cost as that RIVBE mobo or the 4930K CPU.
> 
> I'll be adding at least one 1TB SSD to my build. For now.
> A 480 monsta will fit in the bottom, even in push-pull, with the top HDD cage in place.
> (edit: maybe that's what you meant. I might have been thrown off by the plural "cages" in thinking you meant both the top and the bottom cage).


Whoops, yeah I meant to say just the lower cage, good shout
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chrisnyc75*
> 
> Yeah, 120mm wide, both triples. Alphacool XT45 on top and Monsta on the bottom. I can't imagine how you'd get a 420 in the bottom? A 280, sure, but not a triple or quad.


Naah, running a 420 up top and a 280 on the floor, as well as a 240 in the front. The 140 wide ones gave me the headache
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hooy*
> 
> hey hey, anyone who spent the money on watercooling could've easily afforded a 1TB SSD instead xD
> 
> I don't mind ditching the bottom drives since I only have 3 total and don't plan on getting more for a while
> 
> I was thinking the same thing about 1/2" tubing. I had 1/2 barbs and compression fittings in my cart since I wasn't too worried about tight bends with this giant case.
> 
> I looked at Martin's and Stren's reviews and it only seemed like only a 3C difference with the Raystorm being less restrictive. What am I missing? Also, what are your thoughts on aesthetics for the build I have going on? Red LED's on the GPU's and CPU I feel would be nice as opposed to a bright silver X in the middle of what is otherwise black and red.


True true, I had it in my head that they were around the £800 mark, but the price drop of ssds has been impressive

Yeah reason I suggested the koolance was cos it was a little bit better but also cos I think it looks much better.
I personally don't like the look of the raystorms, I think they look cheap.

Colour scheme is a good idea, if it was me, and because you have the rivebe which is matt black, i would set up some red led lights on the inside, which would reflect off the shiny silver koolance and show it off nicely


----------



## Hooy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hereisphilly*
> 
> Whoops, yeah I meant to say just the lower cage, good shout
> Naah, running a 420 up top and a 280 on the floor, as well as a 240 in the front. The 140 wide ones gave me the headache
> True true, I had it in my head that they were around the £800 mark, but the price drop of ssds has been impressive
> 
> Yeah reason I suggested the koolance was cos it was a little bit better but also cos I think it looks much better.
> I personally don't like the look of the raystorms, I think they look cheap.
> 
> Colour scheme is a good idea, if it was me, and because you have the rivebe which is matt black, i would set up some red led lights on the inside, which would reflect off the shiny silver koolance and show it off nicely


Good point on the build quality of the Raystorm. I agree for the most part but I can't help but be attracted to outlined lighting. Do you have any reference pictures of shiny nickel/chrome blocks with light bouncing off them? I feel like that would be annoying to look at, but what do I know.


----------



## chrisnyc75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hereisphilly*
> 
> Yeah reason I suggested the koolance was cos it was a little bit better but also cos I think it looks much better.
> I personally don't like the look of the raystorms, I think they look cheap.
> 
> Colour scheme is a good idea, if it was me, and because you have the rivebe which is matt black, i would set up some red led lights on the inside, which would reflect off the shiny silver koolance and show it off nicely


XSPC blocks are polarizing, you either love them or hate them.







Personally, I love them, but I can see how they're not for everybody.

Re: color scheme, just so you know red LED interior lighting doesn't so much show off red hardware as it washes out all contrast. Individual red LEDs (re: LED fans, XSPC blocks, etc) are fine, but you won't get the look you're going for if you load your case with a red LED strip/stick or cathode. Better to use red accents here and there (re: fans, etc) and white or uv lighting to highlight the contrast between the red bits and the rest.


----------



## Hooy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chrisnyc75*
> 
> XSPC blocks are polarizing, you either love them or hate them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Personally, I love them, but I can see how they're not for everybody.
> 
> Re: color scheme, just so you know red LED interior lighting doesn't so much show off red hardware as it washes out all contrast. Individual red LEDs (re: LED fans, XSPC blocks, etc) are fine, but you won't get the look you're going for if you load your case with a red LED strip/stick or cathode. Better to use red accents here and there (re: fans, etc) and white or uv lighting to highlight the contrast between the red bits and the rest.


I had the same thought but couldn't say that with any confidence as I have no experience. Do you know if the Razor GPU blocks come in 780 flavor? I can only seem to find it with "TITAN" written on it :/


----------



## chrisnyc75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hooy*
> 
> I had the same thought but couldn't say that with any confidence as I have no experience. Do you know if the Razor GPU blocks come in 780 flavor? I can only seem to find it with "TITAN" written on it :/


I used red LED "sunlight sticks" in my most recent build prior to the Enthoo; the effect is kinda like looking through a piece of red celophane -- everything is just shades of red. Not a good look.

Not sure about the 780 blocks, mine are 770. Check frozencpu & performance-pcs? If it exists, I'm sure one of them carries it.


----------



## jassilamba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hooy*
> 
> Good point on the build quality of the Raystorm. I agree for the most part but I can't help but be attracted to outlined lighting. Do you have any reference pictures of shiny nickel/chrome blocks with light bouncing off them? I feel like that would be annoying to look at, but what do I know.


XSPC delivers a great bang for the buck. I don't think there is any block out there that performs as well as the raystor for the money. Also if you don't like the look of the raystorm, they also have a full copper version with aluminum bracket available. That puts it in the price of other all metal blocks but its still cheaper.

I have used both XSPC, and EK, and I love the mounting mechanism on EK.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hereisphilly*
> 
> It was a bit of a pain, I had put the 1st set of inner fans in it already, and didnt fancy twisting anything as i had the mobo already in!
> I ended up sliding it in through the front. Took all the Drive covers out and it goes in, just... Bit of rubbing happened, but it didn't damage the rad. That was an Alphacool one tho, if a hardware labs or wider variant was used I don't think it would go in that way
> Yeah it would go, I'm running push pull with a 45mm and there is plenty of room, I'll see if I can get a pic for you


I had a problem with the little "shelves" ....the little things that ya optical sits on.

lemme see I shud be able to find my pic in "previous uploads"


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Koolance 380i is the king in LGA2011



NZXT dual bay res + MPC655 variable - Not a a fan of Bay Reservoirs .... rattling and leakage issues ..... I sooo wanted a tube res made outta borosilicate glass but they 75 and 80mm and wont go in Enthoo.....you can mount an EK tube res off brackets mounted at back of that thick bottom panel in 5.25 bays .... I designed them and they were scheduled for fabrication but turned out that I was able to fit on bracket by 7mm. If ya want I can send ya the CAD files.

Monsta 480 bottom - will fit

Alphacool XT45 480 top - Id recommend the 420 ....slightly more cooling area and can use top ports for fill / bleed .

I used rigid tube and bitspower fittings ... if ya want, ya can download flow diagram and parts list a few pages back.

My setup similar to yours other than platform...I went with M6F and 4770k ....aslo did 780s (Asus DCII w/ EK Blocks, also 2 HDs (well SSHDs) but I cheaped out w/ (2) 256 SSDs ... if I did it again wuda went 1 TB...oh and 1250 watt seasonic cause of the big pump


----------



## jassilamba

One thing I should mention about this case

Get in your rads before you get in your mobo or any other hardware. Makes like easy with the rads already in place.


----------



## ADragg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hooy*
> 
> Good point on the build quality of the Raystorm. I agree for the most part but I can't help but be attracted to outlined lighting. Do you have any reference pictures of shiny nickel/chrome blocks with light bouncing off them? I feel like that would be annoying to look at, but what do I know.


EK waterblocks are definitely love em or hate em, but they seem to perform very well. The Raystorm is popular because it looks good to many people and mostly because it performs really well for the price. The EK Supremacy performs about the same, with the Raystorm winning in some situations and the EK winning in others, but they're usually about the same. I personally like the look of EK's acrylic blocks and tube res's. I'll have an EK 250 tube res, clear/nickel Supremacy block, and GTX 780 water block, which should all looks really well together. The EK lets you see your coolant and has led holes in the side for what it's worth. Not much more than the Raystorm.


----------



## grifftech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Not seen anything like that, and just looking at it there are quite a few obstacles to even trying it. I don't want to say that it's not possible - anything is possible - but because the two sides are not symmetrical in design it's definitely not as simple as flipping it over and I can't see any way that it would end up looking or working out very well. You might be better off just removing the door altogether, but that wouldn't look all that hot either.


I think what I might do is see what I can get an extra door and see what i can come up with


----------



## Roxycon

They should really put some dampning on that door for us bay res ppl







the second loudest thing in my enthoo es the door









Have anyone other than me got some problems with the the front io cover not clamping down properly? Mine got a gap right underneath the pwr_on switch


----------



## Hooy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chrisnyc75*
> 
> I used red LED "sunlight sticks" in my most recent build prior to the Enthoo; the effect is kinda like looking through a piece of red celophane -- everything is just shades of red. Not a good look.
> 
> Not sure about the 780 blocks, mine are 770. Check frozencpu & performance-pcs? If it exists, I'm sure one of them carries it.


I tried scouring Google (including Frozen/Performance) and they don't seem to exist... the closest I found was "GTX [blank]" on XSPC's own site. I guess I don't mind it saying Titan since it's on the underside of the card, but still disappointing.0000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jassilamba*
> 
> XSPC delivers a great bang for the buck. I don't think there is any block out there that performs as well as the raystor for the money. Also if you don't like the look of the raystorm, they also have a full copper version with aluminum bracket available. That puts it in the price of other all metal blocks but its still cheaper.
> 
> I have used both XSPC, and EK, and I love the mounting mechanism on EK.


I did read that the EK mounting is a truly easy experience, but is this something I should base my decision off of?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> Koolance 380i is the king in LGA2011
> 
> 
> 
> NZXT dual bay res + MPC655 variable - Not a a fan of Bay Reservoirs .... rattling and leakage issues ..... I sooo wanted a tube res made outta borosilicate glass but they 75 and 80mm and wont go in Enthoo.....you can mount an EK tube res off brackets mounted at back of that thick bottom panel in 5.25 bays .... I designed them and they were scheduled for fabrication but turned out that I was able to fit on bracket by 7mm. If ya want I can send ya the CAD files.
> 
> Monsta 480 bottom - will fit
> 
> Alphacool XT45 480 top - Id recommend the 420 ....slightly more cooling area and can use top ports for fill / bleed .
> 
> I used rigid tube and bitspower fittings ... if ya want, ya can download flow diagram and parts list a few pages back.
> 
> My setup similar to yours other than platform...I went with M6F and 4770k ....aslo did 780s (Asus DCII w/ EK Blocks, also 2 HDs (well SSHDs) but I cheaped out w/ (2) 256 SSDs ... if I did it again wuda went 1 TB...oh and 1250 watt seasonic cause of the big pump


Ah, I didn't know this about bay res'. I originally wanted a tube res with some subtle lighting, but I found that mounting one on the bracket isn't possible with dual GK110 cards and mounting it on the side above the 480 bottom rad would block my EVGA SLI light-up bridge in an awkward manner as well as interfere with the Razor block lighting. Perhaps I can stuff pieces of foam between the drive bay walls and the res to reduce vibrations? Or I could mount the pump in the back of the case and route it to a bay res, but if possible I'd like them combined to save space and clutter. Thoughts?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ADragg*
> 
> EK waterblocks are definitely love em or hate em, but they seem to perform very well. The Raystorm is popular because it looks good to many people and mostly because it performs really well for the price. The EK Supremacy performs about the same, with the Raystorm winning in some situations and the EK winning in others, but they're usually about the same. I personally like the look of EK's acrylic blocks and tube res's. I'll have an EK 250 tube res, clear/nickel Supremacy block, and GTX 780 water block, which should all looks really well together. The EK lets you see your coolant and has led holes in the side for what it's worth. Not much more than the Raystorm.


While I do like the EK circles, I didn't think it was appropriate for a RIVE Black's radical angles and slashes. My gripes about the Raystorm and the Razor blocks are that the LED's require a whole 4 pin molex (2x LED per cable) which means I'll need 3 molex and 6 led cables running amok in my case. IDK how I'd make that look clean.

One thing I forgot to mention is that I want to go for a relatively silent build. I'll have 8x 2150rpm Gentle Typhoons on the 480 monsta at low speeds (using an nzxt mesh analogue controller atm) and 8x 1850rpm for the XT45. Will a MCP655 with a low pump speed (to reduce noise) be able to pump all the way through my loop with relative ease? Or am I undershooting on the pump?


----------



## jassilamba

EK or XSPC or Heatkiller, whatever you choose, pick something that would look good in your build. I can live with a 5 degree difference, but I cannot live with something that I don't like, no matter how great it is. Blocks are not that difficult to install. Its just like installing a air cooler just smaller and more expensive.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ADragg*
> 
> EK waterblocks are definitely love em or hate em, but they seem to perform very well. The Raystorm is popular because it looks good to many people and mostly because it performs really well for the price. The EK Supremacy performs about the same, with the Raystorm winning in some situations and the EK winning in others, but they're usually about the same. I personally like the look of EK's acrylic blocks and tube res's. I'll have an EK 250 tube res, clear/nickel Supremacy block, and GTX 780 water block, which should all looks really well together. The EK lets you see your coolant and has led holes in the side for what it's worth. Not much more than the Raystorm.


One thing that surprised me.....I dont like the circles look..... so I got the clean version. I didn't know it when I bought and I didn't realize it until 3 days after i assembled it but the is the ONLY EK block (at least for the Asus 780) of the 3 available that will fit in SLI in the Enthoo with the res bracket in place. Tho all are "full cover" ... only the clean fits. The other two are about an inch longer .... and the 2nd card in SLI when in the 4th and 5th slot 93 slot spacing) hit the slanted part on the res bracket.

Fits w/ res bracked - http://www.frozencpu.com/products/21270/ex-blc-1529/EK_ASUS_GeForce_780_GTX_DCII_VGA_Liquid_Cooling_Block_-_Nickel_EK-FC780_GTX_DCII_-_Nickel.html

No Fit - http://www.frozencpu.com/products/21271/ex-blc-1530/EK_ASUS_GeForce_780_GTX_DCII_VGA_Liquid_Cooling_Block_-_Acetal_Nickel_EK-FC780_GTX_DCII_-_AcetalNickel.html

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/21272/ex-blc-1531/EK_ASUS_GeForce_780_GTX_DCII_VGA_Liquid_Cooling_Block_-_Nickel_CSQ_EK-FC780_GTX_DCII_-_Nickel_Original_CSQ.html

LEDs arrived from China today .... hadda take rads out to get in. Well they hadda come out anyway need to be cleaned and flushed. BTW, aquarium owners have it easy

http://www.unbeatablesale.com/bci14906.html

Easiest way ever to drain an aquarium, clean the gravel, fill or grain a water bed and flush rads.
Quote:


> but I found that mounting one on the bracket isn't possible with dual GK110 cards and mounting


it's on my dimensional drawing .... but IIRC, my Asus 780s are 10.5" long and fit with 7mm to spare. That's 10.78"

Isn't the 780 Ti 10.8" long ? ..... maybe a lil shaving ? ......again, if ya use a full cover make sure it's not one that goes to the edge of the card but stops like an inch short .
Quote:


> One thing I forgot to mention is that I want to go for a relatively silent build. I'll have 8x 2150rpm Gentle Typhoons on the 480 monsta at low speeds (using an nzxt mesh analogue controller atm) and 8x 1850rpm for the XT45. Will a MCP655 with a low pump speed (to reduce noise) be able to pump all the way through my loop with relative ease? Or am I undershooting on the pump?


I went with a 35x2 just so i cud set it at 40% and be sure of plenty of flow and very very low noise.....I also went full parallel, no block, no crystal link. As for fans, I'm using Phanteks 1250s


----------



## bond32

What in the world is up with the side panels? I've had them leaning against the wall all day, off the case and I've heard them creak periodically all day. Must be the plexiglass...


----------



## chrisnyc75

So, the first stage of my Enthoo build is complete, my system internals now reside in the Enthoo Primo.







Watercooling is still underway, so it's basically just my old hardware in a new case right now. Which brings me to my big "AHA!" moment and a question....

Somehow, in all the months of detailed planning for this build, I failed to realize that just like everybody else my bottom gpu will not fit with the reservoir mount installed. I literally drew mock-up blueprints of the entire installation at one point, but apparently I was convinced my gpu's were 10" long when they're actually 10.5". Talk about missing the forest for the trees, huh? lol


















So, options:

a) mod the reservoir mount to accomodate lower gpu clearance (problem: I know nothing about dremelling)
b) mount the reservoir on the rear panel instead (problem: obstructs gpu access and forces me to redesign my entire loop)
c) redesign the entire loop with a bay reservoir (problem: I already bought a XSPC Photon res + freestanding Swiftech pump)








*Question for you experienced mod'ers*: is there a good reason I shouldn't take a dremel to the bottom 3" lip, dremel it straight down to effectively extend the middle recess all the way to the base? (leaving the actual base where the mounting holes are intact, of course). I've never used a dremel before, but I'm pretty handy, I could figure it out. I'm not too keen on spending on a tool I wouldn't likely use again for years, but at this point that's a drop in a VERY big bucket, so whatever. lol Or I'd be glad to pay to have a pro mod it for me if I could find a shop in nyc that does metal cutting/mod work on a walk-in basis (i.e. without me having to ship the piece off somewhere and wait for it to be returned....I'm not trying to wait another several weeks to finally get the last stage of my project complete, I want my dream system gaming-ready by Thanksgiving)

Or is there some reason mod'ing the panel isn't a good idea? I've read reports of many people with this problem (obviously), but very few of them solving the problem by mod'ing the mounting panel. Why not? I can't imagine ever wanting that lower portion to jut out again - it's not like graphics cards are getting shorter in the future. lol The permanence this particular mod doesn't concern me, IMHO Phanteks should have cut the panel to accomodate multi-gpu setups in the first place.

So, is extending the recessed middle portion down to the bottom with a dremel a reasonable solution, or am I missing some totally obvious reason I can't/shouldn't go this route?

To illustrate, in case my idea doesn't come across clear in words, I am thinking about dremelling off the portion marked with the red crosshatch (pardon the rough-n-dirty mock up, but it shuold get my point across)


----------



## bond32

Regarding the modding, just keep in mind you want to cut it clean, which with a dremel isn't easy. I know for me, if it was cut even the slightest off it would irritate me. So perhaps it would be better if you could find a shop with a band saw, maybe cut notches and bend the part you need back rather than cutting it out.

Another option is to cut it and put a rubber seal around the entire thing. Again, just my opinion. I would want it looking perfect.


----------



## chrisnyc75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> Regarding the modding, just keep in mind you want to cut it clean, which with a dremel isn't easy. I know for me, if it was cut even the slightest off it would irritate me. So perhaps it would be better if you could find a shop with a band saw, maybe cut notches and bend the part you need back rather than cutting it out.
> 
> Another option is to cut it and put a rubber seal around the entire thing. Again, just my opinion. I would want it looking perfect.


Agreed, I don't want a jagged or uneven edge, though I'm perfectly willing to put in the time to buff, sand, or seal the edge to make it look appropriate. I guess I'll call around to some local hardware stores and see if any of them do consignment metal cutting/modification. I have a feeling that's a bigger undertaking than just doing it myself, though. lol Anybody in the NYC area know a place that does this sort of thing?


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> What in the world is up with the side panels? I've had them leaning against the wall all day, off the case and I've heard them creak periodically all day. Must be the plexiglass...


i went into detail on this some 20 pages back ... it;s a U shaped channel so it rubs on 3 sides.... and the fastening method results in varying pressure at every tab.

is had mine apart for 2 weeks.... still haven't thought of a way to muzzle.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chrisnyc75*
> 
> So, the first stage of my Enthoo build is complete, my system internals now reside in the Enthoo Primo.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Watercooling is still underway, so it's basically just my old hardware in a new case right now. Which brings me to my big "AHA!" moment and a question....
> 
> Somehow, in all the months of detailed planning for this build, I failed to realize that just like everybody else my bottom gpu will not fit with the reservoir mount installed. I literally drew mock-up blueprints of the entire installation at one point, but apparently I was convinced my gpu's were 10" long when they're actually 10.5". Talk about missing the forest for the trees, huh? lol


-My 780's w/ waterblock are 10.5" long
-The 2nd card in slots 4 and 5 clears the res bracket by 7mm

Posted pics some pages back



Option 4 ....Look at my pic ... why aren't you fitting and I am ?



Option 5 .... I didn't think it would fit and designed an alternative ... which I no longer need ... it's yours











Check w/ Phanteks ...when I was facing this dilemma I as in regular contact ..... was told "Res Bracket 2 is in development. I have a shop in CONN that s doing my pump adapter plate ... I'll ask what they'd want to do your mod.

I'd use a band or scroll saw,.... but again, why does mu 10.5" card fit and your's doesn't ? ....not watercooled ?

I think you should drive out and visit me this weekend and take some pics









Id send ya more pics but i'm getting ready to leave for Cortland, NY ..... going to visit my son, then going to FrozenCPU (pilgrimage to Geek Mecca" to pick up my order) then hitting some clients on way back .... I'll text them to ya..... see my PM.


----------



## Hereisphilly

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chrisnyc75*
> 
> So, the first stage of my Enthoo build is complete, my system internals now reside in the Enthoo Primo.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Watercooling is still underway, so it's basically just my old hardware in a new case right now. Which brings me to my big "AHA!" moment and a question....
> 
> Somehow, in all the months of detailed planning for this build, I failed to realize that just like everybody else my bottom gpu will not fit with the reservoir mount installed. I literally drew mock-up blueprints of the entire installation at one point, but apparently I was convinced my gpu's were 10" long when they're actually 10.5". Talk about missing the forest for the trees, huh? lol
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So, options:
> 
> a) mod the reservoir mount to accomodate lower gpu clearance (problem: I know nothing about dremelling)
> b) mount the reservoir on the rear panel instead (problem: obstructs gpu access and forces me to redesign my entire loop)
> c) redesign the entire loop with a bay reservoir (problem: I already bought a XSPC Photon res + freestanding Swiftech pump)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Question for you experienced mod'ers*: is there a good reason I shouldn't take a dremel to the bottom 3" lip, dremel it straight down to effectively extend the middle recess all the way to the base? (leaving the actual base where the mounting holes are intact, of course). I've never used a dremel before, but I'm pretty handy, I could figure it out. I'm not too keen on spending on a tool I wouldn't likely use again for years, but at this point that's a drop in a VERY big bucket, so whatever. lol Or I'd be glad to pay to have a pro mod it for me if I could find a shop in nyc that does metal cutting/mod work on a walk-in basis (i.e. without me having to ship the piece off somewhere and wait for it to be returned....I'm not trying to wait another several weeks to finally get the last stage of my project complete, I want my dream system gaming-ready by Thanksgiving)
> 
> Or is there some reason mod'ing the panel isn't a good idea? I've read reports of many people with this problem (obviously), but very few of them solving the problem by mod'ing the mounting panel. Why not? I can't imagine ever wanting that lower portion to jut out again - it's not like graphics cards are getting shorter in the future. lol The permanence this particular mod doesn't concern me, IMHO Phanteks should have cut the panel to accomodate multi-gpu setups in the first place.
> 
> So, is extending the recessed middle portion down to the bottom with a dremel a reasonable solution, or am I missing some totally obvious reason I can't/shouldn't go this route?
> 
> To illustrate, in case my idea doesn't come across clear in words, I am thinking about dremelling off the portion marked with the red crosshatch (pardon the rough-n-dirty mock up, but it shuold get my point across)


Why don't you do what I did and just drill through the main motherboard support plate with the res bracket removed? Without it there is plenty of space for a tube res. I put the brackets in between the two grommets and it worked a treat.
By doing that you also expose the circular grommet in the 'step' which allows a straight shot between the bottom of the tube res and the pump on the pump bracket.


----------



## chrisnyc75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> -My 780's w/ waterblock are 10.5" long
> -The 2nd card in slots 4 and 5 clears the res bracket by 7mm
> 
> Posted pics some pages back
> 
> 
> 
> Option 4 ....Look at my pic ... why aren't you fitting and I am ?.


Hmmmm, I don't think spacing on the Maximus is the same as the RIVE. On Rampage boards, for 2-way SLI at x16/x16 you gpu (a) in slots 1+2, skip slots 3+4, and gpu (b) in slots 5+6 (I think? I'm not at home right now to check to be sure, but I'm 99% confident this is right). So, I think my second gpu is one slot lower than yours, and unfortunately moving it up one isn't an option because then it runs at x16/x8.







RIVE is built for 4-way SLI, the pci-e wiring is probably different than the Maximus.

Either that or I've made some other really absurd error? LOL Tonight I'll take the gpu's out and install the braket, then try to slide the gpus back into place just to be absolutely certain they won't fit.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> 
> 
> Option 5 .... I didn't think it would fit and designed an alternative ... which I no longer need ... it's yours
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Check w/ Phanteks ...when I was facing this dilemma I as in regular contact ..... was told "Res Bracket 2 is in development. I have a shop in CONN that s doing my pump adapter plate ... I'll ask what they'd want to do your mod.
> 
> I'd use a band or scroll saw,.... but again, why does mu 10.5" card fit and your's doesn't ? ....not watercooled ?
> 
> I think you should drive out and visit me this weekend and take some pics
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Id send ya more pics but i'm getting ready to leave for Cortland, NY ..... going to visit my son, then going to FrozenCPU (pilgrimage to Geek Mecca" to pick up my order) then hitting some clients on way back .... I'll text them to ya..... see my PM.


I don't understand the alternative you're suggesting? Sorry, it's early I'm in need of coffee before i try to think in the abstract. lol If you're going where I think you're going with this, it's not the reservoir itself that won't fit - the XSPC Photon fits just fine as long as I mount it *precisely*, it's just that lower lip that juts out on the mounting panel that is about 1/2 inch too far out. If you have a solution that would be easier/cleaner than just dremelling off the lower lip, I'm all ears though. I live in the city so I don't have a car, but LIRR can get me there just as well.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hereisphilly*
> 
> Why don't you do what I did and just drill through the main motherboard support plate with the res bracket removed? Without it there is plenty of space for a tube res. I put the brackets in between the two grommets and it worked a treat.
> By doing that you also expose the circular grommet in the 'step' which allows a straight shot between the bottom of the tube res and the pump on the pump bracket.


Hmm, interesting. I hadn't really considered that, figured it would be recessed too far back and conflict with cable pass-throughs. Food for thought, though. Thanks!


----------



## Hereisphilly

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chrisnyc75*
> 
> Hmm, interesting. I hadn't really considered that, figured it would be recessed too far back and conflict with cable pass-throughs. Food for thought, though. Thanks!


It actually works out really well with my phobya balancer res. I've mounted the clips as far to the right as possible, and in doing so, the edge of the tube res lines up with the centreline of the grommet. Due to the curvature of the res, there is loads of room to get cables out the side and to the mobo, check the pics i posted earlier if you want to see how it works out


----------



## chrisnyc75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hereisphilly*
> 
> It actually works out really well with my phobya balancer res. I've mounted the clips as far to the right as possible, and in doing so, the edge of the tube res lines up with the centreline of the grommet. Due to the curvature of the res, there is loads of room to get cables out the side and to the mobo, check the pics i posted earlier if you want to see how it works out


Nice. I don't think it would work with my XSPC Photon res, though, as the mounting "bracket" is a solid piece of metal that runs the length of the reservoir - the entire mount makes contact with the mounting surface from top to bottom, so it would necessarily be mounted directly on top of the cable pass-throughs. Thanks for the suggestion, though -- if I decide to go with a different reservoir to fix this little conundrum I'll keep this in mind.

I still think my best option is to just mod the lower lip on the bracket. I can't for the life of me figure out why Phanteks put it there, anyway? Maybe Dutch graphics cards are smaller than gpu's in the rest of the world? rofl


----------



## bond32

I meant the side panels creak when they are off the case. They are just laying against my wall, making all kinds of noise...

Chris, I could sell you 2 xspc reservoirs, a bay and tank res for your photon if you're interested.


----------



## chrisnyc75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> I meant the side panels creak when they are off the case. They are just laying against my wall, making all kinds of noise...
> 
> Chris, I could sell you 2 xspc reservoirs, a bay and tank res for your photon if you're interested.


Thanks, but I already have a XSPC Photon 170 tank res, just gotta figure out how to make the res mount work with my setup.


----------



## bond32

So none of the holes line up when you take the bracket off? You could also mount it on the bottom of the top radiator...


----------



## borax

Hi guys been reading through this entire thread. Happy to say that I shall be receiving my Primo tommorow morning.









Cannot wait to get modding! First question is going to sound a little nooby, anyone have any ideas/suggestions towards a possible colour scheme I can go with using an MSP Mower Max z87 mobo?


----------



## chrisnyc75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> So none of the holes line up when you take the bracket off? You could also mount it on the bottom of the top radiator...


The holes might line up, but the issue is that the mounting mechanism isn't just 2 brackets that affix the res to the case -- the res has 2 brackets which affix it to a rear bracket and that entire rear bracket which runs the length of the res, top to bottom, then affixes flush to the case (think of a mounted paper-towel dispenser....the mount makes full contact with the mounting surface). So, to mount it in the position you're suggesting I would literally be mounting it on top of the cable pass-throughs. Seems messier than attempting a dremel mod.

Regarding the "creaking" of the side panel, mine does that too. A slight nudge against the panel to releive the expansion/contraction usually shuts it up for awhile.


----------



## Hereisphilly

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chrisnyc75*
> 
> The holes might line up, but the issue is that the mounting mechanism isn't just 2 brackets that affix the res to the case -- the res has 2 brackets which affix it to a rear bracket and that entire rear bracket which runs the length of the res, top to bottom, then affixes flush to the case (think of a mounted paper-towel dispenser....the mount makes full contact with the mounting surface). So, to mount it in the position you're suggesting I would literally be mounting it on top of the cable pass-throughs. Seems messier than attempting a dremel mod.
> 
> Regarding the "creaking" of the side panel, mine does that too. A slight nudge against the panel to releive the expansion/contraction usually shuts it up for awhile.


If you are okay with dremelling, what about cutting the middle of the backplane to the res out, just leaving the top and bottom screw points?


----------



## jassilamba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hereisphilly*
> 
> If you are okay with dremelling, what about cutting the middle of the backplane to the res out, just leaving the top and bottom screw points?


Why even do that, just use the read plate of the photon as a guide, mark off the holes for the bracket that holds the res, and mount the brackets directly to the case, without the plate that holds them.

Do you get what I'm trying to say?


----------



## chrisnyc75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jassilamba*
> 
> Why even do that, just use the read plate of the photon as a guide, mark off the holes for the bracket that holds the res, and mount the brackets directly to the case, without the plate that holds them.
> 
> Do you get what I'm trying to say?


Ah yeah, once again the obvious escapes me. lol

In any case, I still think permanently mod'ing the Enthoo reservoir bracket is the most practical solution, so in the absence of any advice as to why I shouldn't do that, I think that's the route I'm going to go. Just have to figure out if I can find a pro shop to do it for me or pick up a dremel and try my luck.

And I had *SO* hoped to have a fully watercooled system up and running this weekend. It's always something, right?


----------



## jassilamba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chrisnyc75*
> 
> Ah yeah, once again the obvious escapes me. lol
> 
> In any case, I still think permanently mod'ing the Enthoo reservoir bracket is the most practical solution, so in the absence of any advice as to why I shouldn't do that, I think that's the route I'm going to go. Just have to figure out if I can find a pro shop to do it for me or pick up a dremel and try my luck.
> 
> And I had *SO* hoped to have a fully watercooled system up and running this weekend. It's always something, right?


Welcome to the club. When doing the review I had pump issues after I got everything in place. So I had to tear apart the whole build, and replace the pump and the res.

Also no matter how much you plan something will always go bad.


----------



## chrisnyc75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jassilamba*
> 
> Welcome to the club. When doing the review I had pump issues after I got everything in place. So I had to tear apart the whole build, and replace the pump and the res.
> 
> Also no matter how much you plan something will always go bad.


Don't I know it! lol

I had another little mishap when I accidentally plugged the 'LED strip" molex into a psu plug, thinking the front LED strip required its own power supply. When I powered on the system for the first time it literally started smoking. Needless to say, I panicked. Fortunately, though, the adapter I used for the connection literally melted before the current could damage either the case or the psu. Really scarey moment, though. They really should label that connector more clearly, "LED strip" seems like something you should plug in since the case comes with an LED strip. It wasn't until later when I started hunting through this thread that I found a convo about that plug powering an ADDITIONAL led strip if you choose to install one.

Hopefully, I got all my "things that can and will go wrong" out of the way in stage 1 of my build and the rest will go off without a hitch.







I can dream, can't I?


----------



## Hereisphilly

If anyone fancies a quick read about my experiences on a 1st time WC build in the Primo complete with a bit of drilling, I put together my photos into a little build log over on the 'Zoo'.
I know its nothing incredible, but if it informs anyone else, then thats all good

Phanteks Enthoo Primo Build Log


----------



## Pimaddafakkr

Do you guys have any suggestions for the best 480 radiator one can put at the top of this case, I have already planned to use an 480 monsta in the bot, but I'm having some troubles deciding on the top rad. I've been thinking 'about a alphacool ut60 or an EK CoolStream 480 XTX (64mm) or an Coolgate Quad 120mm Ultimate Heat Exchanger Radiator (60mm)


----------



## Roxycon

If you use a xt45 in p/p and only one set of fans on the monsta you could accomodate another 360 in the middle


----------



## Pimaddafakkr

While the suggestion is very nice, I kinda need one of the HDD cages, so the 360 rad in the front wouldnt really fly for me.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hereisphilly*
> 
> If anyone fancies a quick read about my experiences on a 1st time WC build in the Primo complete with a bit of drilling, I put together my photos into a little build log over on the 'Zoo'.
> I know its nothing incredible, but if it informs anyone else, then thats all good
> 
> Phanteks Enthoo Primo Build Log


Nice build log. Quality job. Looks great!


----------



## Roxycon

I got 4 hdd 2 ssd's and the 360 with ample of room









And my hdd's operate right above the minimum 25 degrees celsius because of the push pull from front fans and rad fans


----------



## Bludge

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hereisphilly*
> 
> If anyone fancies a quick read about my experiences on a 1st time WC build in the Primo complete with a bit of drilling, I put together my photos into a little build log over on the 'Zoo'.
> I know its nothing incredible, but if it informs anyone else, then thats all good
> 
> Phanteks Enthoo Primo Build Log


So, yeah, I'm going to creatively rip off most of your build idea









I do have a Swiftech H20-320 that I will stick up top, just for the CPU, that will reduce the tubing runs up to the top rad, but your Monsta and XT45 at the front are fair game








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roxycon*
> 
> I got 4 hdd 2 ssd's and the 360 with ample of room


Pics by any chance?


----------



## Hereisphilly

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bludge*
> 
> So, yeah, I'm going to creatively rip off most of your build idea
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I do have a Swiftech H20-320 that I will stick up top, just for the CPU, that will reduce the tubing runs up to the top rad, but your Monsta and XT45 at the front are fair game


Great, glad I could inspire you!
It was my plan to for the maximum amount of rads in without losing any capacity of any area of the case
The drilling of the holes was the only bit I had to consider how I was going to do carefully, and a hole punch seemed to be the best., rather than a horrible hole saw

Yeah I know the tubing run from the bottom rad to the top is a bit ugly, I spent ages trying to think if another way but couldn't, as I couldn't turn the top rad round cos the ports would then be blocked by my bluray drive


----------



## Roxycon

The only pic i got but its a 30 mm thick rad so it is some breathing room between the hdd rack in back position and rad and enough room in the front to run tubing up to the odd bay like this:


----------



## Pimaddafakkr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bludge*
> 
> :
> Pics by any chance?


Yes, I too would like to see some pictures of this.


----------



## chrisnyc75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> i went into detail on this some 20 pages back ... it;s a U shaped channel so it rubs on 3 sides.... and the fastening method results in varying pressure at every tab.
> 
> is had mine apart for 2 weeks.... still haven't thought of a way to muzzle.
> -My 780's w/ waterblock are 10.5" long
> -The 2nd card in slots 4 and 5 clears the res bracket by 7mm
> 
> Posted pics some pages back
> 
> 
> 
> but again, why does mu 10.5" card fit and your's doesn't ? ....not watercooled ?


Well, upon getting home tonight I went back and read your past info on this exact subject some 20 pages back and then opened up my system, pulled out my bottom gpu, shimmy'ed the reservoir bracket into place, then kinda "eyeballed" where the base line of the bottom card will be once the acx cooler is removed and replaced with a waterblock.... and I think you're right, I *think* it will just barely fit. I'm willing to bet the bottom right edge of the waterblock will rest on the diagonal edge of the res mount, but I think it should have enough clearance to sit level, if tight. I stopped short of removing the acx cooler, installing the waterblock, and sticking it in my powered-down system just to be absolutely certain -- that's more time & energy than I can muster on Tuesday night after a long day at work. But I'm gonna do just exactly that first thing Friday night, that way if all goes well and it fits I can move forward with stage 3 of my build on Saturday; and if not, I can just run to Ace Hardware and pick up a dremel -- what's another $80 at this point? LOL

As always, thanks for the insight & advice, without you guys to talk me down off the ledge from time to tim this build would probably have me pulling my hair out by now. lol

Oh, and btw, I picked up a dual-layer photo quality decal of my avatar today from the FedEx Store (I think they merged with Kinko's? they do full service printing now). 4"x4.5" to be mounted on 1/4" plexi (being custom cut this week) and mounted in the small window lit by LED backlighting (and the black border blacked-out so only the image glows). Like a *BOSS*.









p.s. even with just my existing hardware and radiators in place (no watercooling installed yet), and cable management still half-baked, this thing is freakin GORGEOUS.


----------



## Abula

Anyone know if the Phantek fan Hub can be bought anywhere?


----------



## chrisnyc75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Abula*
> 
> Anyone know if the Phantek fan Hub can be bought anywhere?


No, it cannot be purchased separately yet. Word is it will be available as an accessory sometime in early 2014.

Mark my words - it will *revolutionize* the fan segment.

Speaking of the fan hub.... Did you know it doesn't even have to be connected to a PWM fan header? It works off any 4-pin fan header even if that header isn't *REAL* pwm. It's widely known that only "cpu fan" & "cpu opt" on Asus mobos are REAL pwm; all others, despite being 4-pin headers labeled "PWM" in Asus documentation, other "chassis" & "option" 4-pin fan headers are use the fan's reported speed to drive _voltage control_ - not quite the same as PWM. Nonetheless, the Phanteks hub works perfectly attached to these.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chrisnyc75*
> 
> Well, upon getting home tonight I went back and read your ..... past info on this exact subject some 20 pages back and then opened up my system, pulled out my bottom gpu, shimmy'ed the reservoir bracket into place, then kinda "eyeballed" where the base line of the bottom card will be once the acx cooler is removed and replaced with a waterblock.... and I think you're right, I *think* it will just barely fit. I'm willing to bet the bottom right edge of the waterblock will rest on the diagonal edge of the res mount, but I think it should have enough clearance to sit level, if tight. I stopped short of removing the acx cooler, installing the waterblock, and sticking it in my powered-down system just to be absolutely certain -- that's more time & energy than I can muster on Tuesday night after a long day at work. But I'm gonna do just exactly that first thing Friday night, that way if all goes well and it fits I can move forward with stage 3 of my build on Saturday; and if not, I can just run to Ace Hardware and pick up a dremel -- what's another $80 at this point? LOL


I went thru the exact same process.... went from the Photon to the Stacked EKs ..... but bought just one 780 / WB to do final measurements.....and found out it wud fit...... so all was right with the world.... went to see the folks at FrozenCPU.com today and picked up my res, 2nd GFX WB, CPU, WB, .... way too much money's worth of fittings.....and when I got there, they told my last remaining item (backplate) had come in.....yeah I building on Wednesday !!!!!!!]

NOT !

Missing item



It was in stock on Saturday when I placed order but gone before I got there today. Can't do much much w/ the acrylic w/o it


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chrisnyc75*
> 
> No, it cannot be purchased separately yet. Word is it will be available as an accessory sometime in early 2014.
> 
> Mark my words - it will *revolutionize* the fan segment.
> 
> Speaking of the fan hub.... Did you know it doesn't even have to be connected to a PWM fan header? It works off any 4-pin fan header even if that header isn't *REAL* pwm. It's widely known that only "cpu fan" & "cpu opt" on Asus mobos are REAL pwm; all others, despite being 4-pin headers labeled "PWM" in Asus documentation, other "chassis" & "option" 4-pin fan headers are use the fan's reported speed to drive _voltage control_ - not quite the same as PWM. Nonetheless, the Phanteks hub works perfectly attached to these.


Not everyone has had the same experiences as you have with using other PWM headers other than CPU_FAN with the Phanteks fan hub ...
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *flaminghomer*
> 
> I received my case today, too. Everything works fine except the fan hub seems to be broken. If i connect the fans directly to the mainboard, they work just fine, but if I connect the pwm cable nothing happens. Is it even possible that i connected it wrong?
> Doesn't make a difference whether i connect the molex cable or not...


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *flaminghomer*
> 
> I tried SYSFAN 1 and SYSFAN 4 (MSI Z77 MPOWER). Adjusting fan speed in bios or with speedfan doesn't help.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> [edit]
> okay, connecting the fan hub to the CPUFAN works. why!? do the SYSFAN ports not support PWM? the manual says the do...
> [edit]


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> [...] Missing item
> 
> 
> 
> It was in stock on Saturday when I placed order but gone before I got there today. Can't do much much w/ the acrylic w/o it


Guess you're not using Primochill's rigid acrylic tubing, because you sure don't need anything like that, or need to file/sand anything other than cut it to length with their tube & fittings, and the cut doesn't even need to be all that straight or clean even and it works just fine. Plus with Primochill's compressions you have a few extra mm's of play you can adjust each tube a bit that you won't get when using push-fit fittings, and in my practice runs so far that has often (read: usually) been the difference between whether the piece I'm working on is perfect, or garbage.


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> Missing item
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It was in stock on Saturday when I placed order but gone before I got there today. Can't do much much w/ the acrylic w/o it


HERE. I had one in my Amazon order i placed last week. I deleted it at the last minute when i saw the upcoming Monsoon HardLine Accessories









There's a bunch of similar ones on Amazon. Just search like Pipe Reamer, Pipe Debur, Acrylic Debur, Acrylic Reamer, etc. I found like 15 different ones


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> HERE. I had one in my Amazon order i placed last week. I deleted it at the last minute when i saw the upcoming Monsoon HardLine Accessories
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There's a bunch of similar ones on Amazon. Just search like Pipe Reamer, Pipe Debur, Acrylic Debur, Acrylic Reamer, etc. I found like 15 different ones


Amazon was outta stock.,...Home depot isn't and no mail








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Guess you're not using Primochill's rigid acrylic tubing, because you sure don't need anything like that, or need to file/sand anything other than cut it to length with their tube & fittings, and the cut doesn't even need to be all that straight or clean even and it works just fine. Plus with Primochill's compressions you have a few extra mm's of play you can adjust each tube a bit that you won't get when using push-fit fittings, and in my practice runs so far that has often (read: usually) been the difference between whether the piece I'm working on is perfect, or garbage.


The look of the Primo chill just didn't do it for me both in looks and variety of fitting types .....

16 90s
2 45s
2 Tees
disconnects
various pairs of rigitd extensions


----------



## jassilamba

MNpctech has em or you can get em at your local hardware store.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> Amazon was outta stock.,...Home depot isn't and no mail
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The look of the Primo chill just didn't do it for me both in looks and variety of fitting types .....
> 
> 16 90s
> 2 45s
> 2 Tees
> disconnects
> various pairs of rigitd extensions


The main selling point for me in going with acrylic was only needing the compression fittings. There's little to no need for any rotaries or 90s or 45s, etc when you can just bend the acrylic instead, and I _really_ don't like the look of any of those fittings in any case.


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> Amazon was outta stock.,...Home depot isn't and no mail


Amazon has em in stock. The link i gave you was in stock. That was just a random one that i posted too. They have like 15 identical ones with different brand names. But if Home Depot has the same thing, I'd probly grab it there too. I'm personally waiting for the Monsoon Kits cuz i know i'm gonna end up grabbing one anyway for the Radius Benders and will never use the other Reamer again


----------



## ADragg

Here is my proposed mock-up of my WC layout. More details are in a thread that I will link, and I'd love any advice, opinions, reinforcement, and feedback on the questions I had as well, if anyone feels so inclined to help me out, since this is my first full custom loop. Here's the thread:
http://www.overclock.net/t/1444276/please-review-my-custom-loop-plan-and-help-me-get-this-thing-below-700


----------



## ADragg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> One thing that surprised me.....I dont like the circles look..... so I got the clean version. I didn't know it when I bought and I didn't realize it until 3 days after i assembled it but the is the ONLY EK block (at least for the Asus 780) of the 3 available that will fit in SLI in the Enthoo with the res bracket in place. Tho all are "full cover" ... only the clean fits. The other two are about an inch longer .... and the 2nd card in SLI when in the 4th and 5th slot 93 slot spacing) hit the slanted part on the res bracket.
> 
> Fits w/ res bracked - http://www.frozencpu.com/products/21270/ex-blc-1529/EK_ASUS_GeForce_780_GTX_DCII_VGA_Liquid_Cooling_Block_-_Nickel_EK-FC780_GTX_DCII_-_Nickel.html
> 
> No Fit - http://www.frozencpu.com/products/21271/ex-blc-1530/EK_ASUS_GeForce_780_GTX_DCII_VGA_Liquid_Cooling_Block_-_Acetal_Nickel_EK-FC780_GTX_DCII_-_AcetalNickel.html
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/21272/ex-blc-1531/EK_ASUS_GeForce_780_GTX_DCII_VGA_Liquid_Cooling_Block_-_Nickel_CSQ_EK-FC780_GTX_DCII_-_Nickel_Original_CSQ.html


Glad you pointed that out. I was going to get the longer clear one because I just thought it would look better covering the whole card and showing more coolant through the acrylic (they both still show coolant through, right?) even if the shorter one is still a "full cover" block. But since I very well might get another GTX 780, I'll probably get the short block. On the longer one, it appears that there are only holes for the fittings on the underside, so you'd need to use one of those SLI attachments that come off the side of the card and have holes on the top AND bottom if you wanted to run tubing out the top of the card (which you almost always would...). I feel like I must be missing something, though, because I don't know why they would design a block that only accepts fittings underneath. However, the shorter one that you got seems to have a black thing off the side of it that does the same thing as the acrylic SLI attachments (has 2 holes on top and 2 on bottom), right? Is it a removable piece in case you wanted to swap an acrylic one on here just for aesthetics?


----------



## ADragg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> i went into detail on this some 20 pages back ... it;s a U shaped channel so it rubs on 3 sides.... and the fastening method results in varying pressure at every tab.
> 
> is had mine apart for 2 weeks.... still haven't thought of a way to muzzle.


You mean you bent the tabs open and took the plexi window out? I haven't looked at it closely, but maybe just coating the tabs in something rubberized, like Plastidip. And/or carefully applying something like packing tape to the plexi glass at it's contact points. Just throwing random ideas out there. Failing something simple, there's always just reattaching it a different way, or gluing it in place. I dunno, I'd need to look close to see what might work but it's seriously getting annoying that this thing creaks so much. I thought it would settle in and stop.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jassilamba*
> 
> MNpctech has em or you can get em at your local hardware store.


Home Depot









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> The main selling point for me in going with acrylic was only needing the compression fittings. There's little to no need for any rotaries or 90s or 45s, etc when you can just bend the acrylic instead, and I _really_ don't like the look of any of those fittings in any case.


I bought a new heat gun, I bought the bending kit ....... but in the end, I felt I was compromising and losing "the straight lines look" that made me wanna do the build in the 1sdt place. Set those and the extra cost aside and went with what I liked and do what I really wanted..... Other reasons included

1. I liked the security of the double O-rings
2. I wanted to avoid the clutter of a bridge and my parallel block design is not possible w/o the tees
3. Didn't like the idea of a the twist on / twist off quick disconnect for the drain hanging out in space on a line that included any acrylic joints, now all metal.
4. Have a few tight spaces under HD cages @ pump that made bending an iffy proposition.
5. Fill / Bleed Ports are 30mm long..... All metal made it a lot easier.
6. I'm passing thru a drilled hole in the res bracket, down and thru the grommet behind it; close tolerances wuda been a bit challenging for fabrication of the bends, as well as assembly / disassembly.
7. The appeal of rotaries is not for the bends, you can buy 90 fittings that aren't rotary..... rotaries help in that they are multidirectional...after turning the 90 or the 45 in one plane they can be rotated in another.

The chamfering and deburring is prolly not absolutely necessary but Bitspower recommends it so as not to risk cutting or otherwise damaging an O-Ring

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ADragg*
> 
> Glad you pointed that out. I was going to get the longer clear one because I just thought it would look better covering the whole card and showing more coolant through the acrylic (they both still show coolant through, right?) even if the shorter one is still a "full cover" block. But since I very well might get another GTX 780, I'll probably get the short block. On the longer one, it appears that there are only holes for the fittings on the underside, so you'd need to use one of those SLI attachments that come off the side of the card and have holes on the top AND bottom if you wanted to run tubing out the top of the card (which you almost always would...). I feel like I must be missing something, though, because I don't know why they would design a block that only accepts fittings underneath. However, the shorter one that you got seems to have a black thing off the side of it that does the same thing as the acrylic SLI attachments (has 2 holes on top and 2 on bottom), right? Is it a removable piece in case you wanted to swap an acrylic one on here just for aesthetics?


The amount of coolant shown is the same

The longer "clear one" has those ugly (to me anyway) circles.

You can connect top or bottom....the whole block is on the bottom of the card..... the connections are on the stubbed out black thing and each has two vertical holes ....you can come in from the top (and close the bottom) or visa versa....or one of each.

I have no SLI attachments .... you could do a bridge, the crystal link or pipe direct in parallel



In the image above, the acrylic part is identical to the "short one"..... the part with the circles is replaced with one with no circles. Now here's where they differ:

1. Like the acetal version of the "long one", the short one has the black extension .... the circle one, ya gotta buy more parts
2. The short one ends where the part with all the circles ends.... doesn't have the metal "tab" to the right. That mnetal tab might be called a "front plate, it covers but I don't think it is "touching" the card. If it did, I think there'd be sparks invoilved









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ADragg*
> 
> You mean you bent the tabs open and took the plexi window out? I haven't looked at it closely, but maybe just coating the tabs in something rubberized, like Plastidip. And/or carefully applying something like packing tape to the plexi glass at it's contact points. Just throwing random ideas out there. Failing something simple, there's always just reattaching it a different way, or gluing it in place. I dunno, I'd need to look close to see what might work but it's seriously getting annoying that this thing creaks so much. I thought it would settle in and stop.


It's not the tabs making the noise ..... I pick it up and stare at it every once and a while ..... still haven't come up with anything. Problem is it's a U shaped tab in a U shaped Channel ..... well more like |_|

So it rubs on 3 sides and with thermal expansion / contraction its gets squeezed and rubs on / moves along multiple surfaces ..... if you were to apply a tape or "rubber paint", I was concerned the |_| plexi tab would no longer fit in the |_| shaped channel.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ADragg*
> 
> Here is my proposed mock-up of my WC layout. More details are in a thread that I will link, and I'd love any advice, opinions, reinforcement, and feedback on the questions I had as well, if anyone feels so inclined to help me out, since this is my first full custom loop. Here's the thread:


Your loop is identical to mine except I'm in SLI, I used rigid and I slid the to rad forward.

If ya go that way, I wouldn't leave the top fill port open.....meybe one of these ?

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/16784/ex-tub-1363/Aquacomputer_Pressure_Equalization_Membrane_G14_Thread_-_Tall_Version_53138.html

Think about sliding the 420 forward.....a pair of 30mm Bitspower extenders w/ plugs make convenient full and bleed ports and ya don't need a fabricated brace mount to hold the one in the front then. If ya stick w/ the front one tho, I have a design for a mounting plate I can send you as that was my originally planned route.

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/12340/ex-tub-777/Bitspower_G14_Male_to_Female_Extender_-_30mm_-_Matte_Black_BP-MBWP-C63.html
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/10362/ex-tub-610/Bitspower_G14_Thread_Low_Profile_Stop_Plug_w_O-Ring_-_Matte_Black_BP-MBWP-C09.html

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Amazon has em in stock. The link i gave you was in stock. That was just a random one that i posted too. They have like 15 identical ones with different brand names. But if Home Depot has the same thing, I'd probly grab it there too. I'm personally waiting for the Monsoon Kits cuz i know i'm gonna end up grabbing one anyway for the Radius Benders and will never use the other Reamer again


The original OEM one buy Rothenberger (sp ?) that everyone else sells was outta stock when I looked...Home Deport was no shipping delay


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

I've had my - still mostly empty except for the rads mounted - case sitting right next to me since I received it. I've not heard a single peep from it yet, even with it sitting where the sun through the window hits it for part of the day, but from what you all are describing the noise coming from the panel expanding/contracting it sounds like something that would probably go away with time.

It just reminds me of our Toyota Avalon when the car was brand new. The Mrs was really bothered by all the creaking and noises, including coming from the back window as it heated up which would make noises when the car wasn't even running (which is what reminds me of the complaints about the case panel). She was convinced we'd bought a lemon or something was wrong or not properly lubricated. It was everything I could do to keep her from taking it back to the dealer and throwing a fit and convince her it was all just because the machining tolerances were very tight and it all just needed to be broken in. It took a while, but we never did anything except deal with it, and now it's quieter than a mouse. All the noises went away so gradually we didn't really notice exactly when until one day my wife turned to me and said something to the effect of 'I hate to admit it, but you were right. All of those noises have just gone away all by themselves.' I knew it would quiet down eventually as I'd been through the exact same thing years previous when I bought a Toyota 4Runner it was super-creaky when it was new and I thought all the same things she did.


----------



## jassilamba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> I've had my - still mostly empty except for the rads mounted - case sitting right next to me since I received it. I've not heard a single peep from it yet, even with it sitting where the sun through the window hits it for part of the day, but from what you all are describing the noise coming from the panel expanding/contracting it sounds like something that would probably go away with time.
> 
> It just reminds me of our Toyota Avalon when the car was brand new. The Mrs was really bothered by all the creaking and noises, including coming from the back window as it heated up which would make noises when the car wasn't even running (which is what reminds me of the complaints about the case panel). She was convinced we'd bought a lemon or something was wrong or not properly lubricated. It was everything I could do to keep her from taking it back to the dealer and throwing a fit and convince her it was all just because the machining tolerances were very tight and it all just needed to be broken in. It took a while, but we never did anything except deal with it, and now it's quieter than a mouse. All the noises went away so gradually we didn't really notice exactly when until one day my wife turned to me and said something to the effect of *'I hate to admit it, but you were right.* All of those noises have just gone away all by themselves.' I knew it would quiet down eventually as I'd been through the exact same thing years previous when I bought a Toyota 4Runner it was super-creaky when it was new and I thought all the same things she did.


When the wifey says you are right, that is an awesome feeling.

The review sample that I have, has no issues like the ones you guys have mentioned. There are no creaks or anything like that. Really happy with case, one of the best cases I have laid my hands on.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> I've had my - still mostly empty except for the rads mounted - case sitting right next to me since I received it. I've not heard a single peep from it yet, even with it sitting where the sun through the window hits it for part of the day, but from what you all are describing the noise coming from the panel expanding/contracting it sounds like something that would probably go away with time.
> 
> It just reminds me of our Toyota Avalon when the car was brand new. The Mrs was really bothered by all the creaking and noises, including coming from the back window as it heated up which would make noises when the car wasn't even running (which is what reminds me of the complaints about the case panel). She was convinced we'd bought a lemon or something was wrong or not properly lubricated. It was everything I could do to keep her from taking it back to the dealer and throwing a fit and convince her it was all just because the machining tolerances were very tight and it all just needed to be broken in. It took a while, but we never did anything except deal with it, and now it's quieter than a mouse. All the noises went away so gradually we didn't really notice exactly when until one day my wife turned to me and said something to the effect of 'I hate to admit it, but you were right. All of those noises have just gone away all by themselves.' I knew it would quiet down eventually as I'd been through the exact same thing years previous when I bought a Toyota 4Runner it was super-creaky when it was new and I thought all the same things she did.


I simply can not believe that is true.....it is simply so far beyond human comprehension to be believed ...... not the part about the noises..... the part about
Quote:


> until one day my wife turned to me and said something to the effect of 'I hate to admit it, *but you were right*.


Didn't she take the course ? :0

In philosophy, the men's class talked about "if a tree falls in the forest and nobody hears it did it make a sound ?"

I the wimmen's course, the question is different ..... "if a man speaks in the forest and no women hears him, is he still wrong ?" Every time I have asked that question, I have never heard anyone answer yes or no....apparently the only correct answers are "Of course" and "Absolutely" !

As to the squeaks.... yes it's a Toyota feature







many friends with T's have mentioned it as a minor annoyance and I remember it from my roomie's car back in the early 70s. But yes,it makes sense that noise coming from 2 parts rubbing together will go away over time ..... the rubbing is caused by friction, friction wears the surfaces rubbing and finally, when they no longer touching, the noise stops..


----------



## shiv15

I have a question about the 240 rad that can be mounted on the backside with the included bracket. If I measured correctly, it looks like you can fit a 60 mm thick radiator in there, in push configuration, without it obstructing the path for a 480 along the bottom. The only problem is it would practically be touching the side of the Monsta 480, which will block a large portion of the 240 rad. I assume you need some type of space behind the radiator in push only for it to be effective.

Would a 45mm in push only, or 30mm/35mm in push/pull provide superior cooling? Right now I have an RS240 and an RX240 that I won't really have a use for, and I wanted to put one in there. The drawback I can see off the top of my head, is there are only two ports on the Xspc rads. Looking at the bracket, an alphacool would be superior as you can run the tubes straight up the backside of the case.


----------



## jassilamba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shiv15*
> 
> I have a question about the 240 rad that can be mounted on the backside with the included bracket. If I measured correctly, it looks like you can fit a 60 mm thick radiator in there, in push configuration, without it obstructing the path for a 480 along the bottom. The only problem is it would practically be touching the side of the Monsta 480, which will block a large portion of the 240 rad. I assume you need some type of space behind the radiator in push only for it to be effective.
> 
> Would a 45mm in push only, or 30mm/35mm in push/pull provide superior cooling? Right now I have an RS240 and an RX240 that I won't really have a use for, and I wanted to put one in there. The drawback I can see off the top of my head, is there are only two ports on the Xspc rads. Looking at the bracket, an alphacool would be superior as you can run the tubes straight up the backside of the case.


The gain you get from running a thicker rad is not worth it. I would suggest getting a 45mm rad, and having it blow out of the case.


----------



## shiv15

In pull configuration? Will that cause any issues pulling air from the front intake fans out the side before it can pass through the case?


----------



## jassilamba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shiv15*
> 
> In pull configuration? Will that cause any issues pulling air from the front intake fans out the side before it can pass through the case?


The only issue I see is with dust. Moving fans on a rad is easy, I say set them up the way you want, and see how they perform, and how is the dust collection inside. If you are satisfied then sit back and enjoy your build. If not feel free to flip the fans around.


----------



## shiv15

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jassilamba*
> 
> The only issue I see is with dust. Moving fans on a rad is easy, I say set them up the way you want, and see how they perform, and how is the dust collection inside. If you are satisfied then sit back and enjoy your build. If not feel free to flip the fans around.


Doesn't the side panel have a filter?

And for my earlier question, I guess I need to reword it. Without any side fans, the intake fans will move air from the front to the back exhaust fan. Will having two side fans close to the intake cause the air path to change and not reach the back of the case effectively?

Or is that a negligible difference with having the 480 and 420 rads also bringing air in?


----------



## jassilamba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shiv15*
> 
> Doesn't the side panel have a filter?
> 
> And for my earlier question, I guess I need to reword it. Without any side fans, the intake fans will move air from the front to the back exhaust fan. Will having two side fans close to the intake cause the air path to change and not reach the back of the case effectively?
> 
> Or is that a negligible difference with having the 480 and 420 rads also bringing air in?


I personally dont think you will have any issues with air flow in the back. There are filters on the side panel, but the reason people say that you should go for positive pressure is that helps keep dirt being sucked in from corners and vents that are not filtered.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shiv15*
> 
> Doesn't the side panel have a filter?


Yes, it has a magnetic filter same as the one over the PSU grill.
Quote:


> And for my earlier question, I guess I need to reword it. Without any side fans, the intake fans will move air from the front to the back exhaust fan. Will having two side fans close to the intake cause the air path to change and not reach the back of the case effectively?


I wouldn't think so. All the air that comes into the case must escape from it. It will inevitably flow towards any exhaust fans and the open grill areas at the rear of the case.

I've been considering mounting two of the included Phanteks 140s to that side panel as extra intakes just to help increase positive pressure a bit since otherwise I'll be pretty close to balanced intakes & outakes and the intakes will be limited by the filters.


----------



## shiv15

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jassilamba*
> 
> I personally dont think you will have any issues with air flow in the back. There are filters on the side panel, but the reason people say that you should go for positive pressure is that helps keep dirt being sucked in from corners and vents that are not filtered.


Okay, I understand what you are getting at. Even if that rad exhausts out the side there should still be positive pressure in the case. I'll take your advice and try it both ways and see how it performs. Now the fun part is figuring out how to route it. I have a bay resevoir now, considering a tube resevoir if it makes it any easier.









Thank you for the help. Also thanks to you Unic0rnhunter for answering too.


----------



## jassilamba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shiv15*
> 
> Okay, I understand what you are getting at. Even if that rad exhausts out the side there should still be positive pressure in the case. I'll take your advice and try it both ways and see how it performs. Now the fun part is figuring out how to route it. I have a bay resevoir now, considering a tube resevoir if it makes it any easier.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thank you for the help. Also thanks to you Unic0rnhunter for answering too.


How many rads are you planning in total? What size and where?


----------



## shiv15

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jassilamba*
> 
> How many rads are you planning in total? What size and where?


Monsta 480 mounted along the bottom, XT45 420 along the top, and a 240 if I feel like it. Not really necessary, but I don't mind some overkill. I have an RS240 from my old build which will be unused. I much prefer the ports on the alphacool though so I can run the tubes easier.


----------



## jassilamba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shiv15*
> 
> Monsta 480 mounted along the bottom, XT45 420 along the top, and a 240 if I feel like it. Not really necessary, but I don't mind some overkill. I have an RS240 from my old build which will be unused. I much prefer the ports on the alphacool though so I can run the tubes easier.


If just use the 420 and monsta, you can do something like I did.



Or route the tubing after the GPU to the 240, then the monsta, and then back to the res.


----------



## stilllogicz

Is there a downside to using a 480 up to?


----------



## jassilamba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stilllogicz*
> 
> Is there a downside to using a 480 up to?


Nope, I used a 360 so that I would have enough space to fill the reservoir. even a 420 is not an issue at all.


----------



## borax

Hi guys would a 480 monsta fit in the bottom if I remove one of the had caddys?


----------



## Hereisphilly

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jassilamba*
> 
> If just use the 420 and monsta, you can do something like I did.
> 
> 
> 
> Or route the tubing after the GPU to the 240, then the monsta, and then back to the res.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *borax*
> 
> Hi guys would a 480 monsta fit in the bottom if I remove one of the had caddys?


Yes Jesses pic 3 posts above shows a 480 monsta in the floor. You do need to remove the lower hard drive cage tho


----------



## borax

Thanks for the info that's perfect however I will be mounting a tube res on the bracket provided so not sure if that would change things up?


----------



## Hereisphilly

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *borax*
> 
> Thanks for the info that's perfect however I will be mounting a tube res on the bracket provided so not sure if that would change things up?


You might stuggle getting tubing from the res to the pump. Where you planning on putting the pump?


----------



## borax

I was planing on going for one of these: http://www.overclockers.co.uk/showproduct.php?prodid=WC-272-XS&groupid=962&catid=2133&subcat=1845

Would that fit on the bracket?


----------



## Hereisphilly

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *borax*
> 
> I was planing on going for one of these: http://www.overclockers.co.uk/showproduct.php?prodid=WC-272-XS&groupid=962&catid=2133&subcat=1845
> 
> Would that fit on the bracket?


I should think so, all depends if you can use the bracket in the 1st place, as it's governed by your gpu length


----------



## borax

http://www.overclockers.co.uk/showproduct.php?prodid=WC-062-TL&groupid=962&catid=2091

That will be the gpu?

If for instance I have to completely remove the bracket is it still possible to mount the bracket straight onto the chassis behind the bracket?


----------



## bond32

Got the Swiftech MicroRes, XSPC D5 pump top, and some tubing in today. Tomorrow I plan to drain my loop to install all of that and hopefully my R9 290X block will be in.

Anyone here use the Swiftech MicroRes? I am planning where I want to put it now. Many possibilities...

And it looks like the R9 290X with a gpu block will fit with the reservoir bracket. I haven't tested yet, but the stock aircooler takes up some extra room. Not sure if that has been mentioned before.


----------



## chrisnyc75

By the way.... to check out my in-progress Enthoo Primo build log, CLICK HERE.









I'll probably duplicate the build log here when it's complete, but for now I can only keep up with the log in one place, and I spend more time on the ROG forum than anywhere else.


----------



## shiv15

Is it worth having a fan in the bottom front intake if I have the 480 Monsta in p/p? About 90% is covered by the rad and fans.

Also, in regards to loop order how does this look?

Res - pump - 240 - 480 - 420 - CPU - GPU - end at res.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *borax*
> 
> http://www.overclockers.co.uk/showproduct.php?prodid=WC-062-TL&groupid=962&catid=2091
> 
> That will be the gpu?
> 
> If for instance I have to completely remove the bracket is it still possible to mount the bracket straight onto the chassis behind the bracket?


Newegg said the classy is 11" x 5.94" .... that's about 0.5" too big for bracket.... I'll have some pics up in a minute.... I think the pics will help a bit....that's the 10.5" Asus DCII 780's w/ EK WB's







That's the EK-RES 3 -250 and there's about 2-3 mm of space between the res and the PCB / there's about 12-13mm between the res and the bottom of the 5.25 bays. If I didn't fit, I was gonan stack two Ek 150s.... there's a thread on it

http://www.overclock.net/t/1439280/stacking-reservoirs

Anoither confirmation:

The Bitspower aquapipe does mount in the EK Reservoirs .... at least this one does

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/11864/ex-tub-714/Bitspower_G_14_Matte_Black_Aqua-Pipe_I_BP-MBWP-C17.html?tl=c97s169b145


----------



## JackNaylorPE

OK, now I need help with one..... Here's my drain line on the underside of an Alphacool 280 Rad at bottom of enthoo..... worked out just perfect.



Well almost .... meybe it just needs some working in but getting the female disconnect off when ya can't really hold on to the other side is a PITA .... the 30mm extensions tends to unscrew....

Now I ciouls just as easily go the other way under the HD cages but remember....that's the "wall side" of the case. What I really need is one of these



That's a 1/2" wire saddle ... the male QD is 24mm so a 1" shud work fine .... anyone know where I can find one ?

Anyone have another suggestion ?


----------



## borax

@JackNaylorPE

Thanks for the info dude. Definitely shall prove useful.

I'm looking at the Xspc d5 photon res/pump mounted on the bottom combo. Only because I think it looks pretty good and makes my life easier than having a pump in the back compartment. Would this fit onto the backplate/chassis if I remove the backplate?

Thanks.


----------



## carmas

Has anyone mounted yet a 480mm XT45 in p/p on top?
I would like to hear/see some experiences with this rad and the Enthoo Primo, because I am still deciding whether to order the 480mm XT45 or the slimmer 480mm ST30 to have more clearance on top.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> OK, now I need help with one..... Here's my drain line on the underside of an Alphacool 280 Rad at bottom of enthoo..... worked out just perfect.
> 
> 
> 
> Well almost .... meybe it just needs some working in but getting the female disconnect off when ya can't really hold on to the other side is a PITA .... the 30mm extensions tends to unscrew....
> 
> Now I ciouls just as easily go the other way under the HD cages but remember....that's the "wall side" of the case. What I really need is one of these
> 
> 
> 
> That's a 1/2" wire saddle ... the male QD is 24mm so a 1" shud work fine .... anyone know where I can find one ?
> 
> Anyone have another suggestion ?


I'd probably use Loctite Threadlocker Blue 242 on the threads between the QDC and the extension, and the extension and the 90 deg rotary. I use it a lot at work and always have some handy at home. It's the loctite that disassembles with hand tools when you need to, but holds until then. Alternatively, you could use loctite red instead, and that would hold for sure, but you may not be able to get the fittings apart later on without a couple pair of vice grips / channel locks and some serious elbow grease. I definitely wouldn't use loctite of any kind on the threads of the 90 going into the rad, but between fittings that's what I'd use to keep them from turning when I didn't want them to, but I'd still be able to get them apart if/when need be. You can get Loctite blue or red at any decent auto parts store.

EDIT:
If you'd rather use a 'wire saddle' like you had pictured, maybe look for a "P clamp", though the largest I found were 3/4". Not sure if that's big enough for your needs.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/10-x-3-4-Insulated-Clamps-P-Clamp-/260854907460?hash=item3cbc2a0244&vxp=mtr


----------



## shiv15

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *carmas*
> 
> Has anyone mounted yet a 480mm XT45 in p/p on top?
> I would like to hear/see some experiences with this rad and the Enthoo Primo, because I am still deciding whether to order the 480mm XT45 or the slimmer 480mm ST30 to have more clearance on top.


I have a 420mm XT45 in the top which is slightly wider. I have not test fitted the moterboard yet, but it doesn't look like it will be a problem. I believe I read earlier in the thread you could fit the UT60 in there depending on your motherboard.


----------



## Hereisphilly

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *carmas*
> 
> Has anyone mounted yet a 480mm XT45 in p/p on top?
> I would like to hear/see some experiences with this rad and the Enthoo Primo, because I am still deciding whether to order the 480mm XT45 or the slimmer 480mm ST30 to have more clearance on top.


Any XT45 rad will fit in the primo in push pull, as with the second set of fans, it lines up the the edge of the motherboard.
Its only if you go thicker that the potential overhang becomes an issue

I fitted a 420 Xt45 in push pull with no issues, check my earlier pics if you want


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *carmas*
> 
> Has anyone mounted yet a 480mm XT45 in p/p on top?
> I would like to hear/see some experiences with this rad and the Enthoo Primo, because I am still deciding whether to order the 480mm XT45 or the slimmer 480mm ST30 to have more clearance on top.


I have a 480 XT45 in the roof in push-pull.

There is 70 mm of clearance from the top of the mobo to the inside top of the case, so an Xt45 with push fan (45mm + 25mm) comes just even with the top of the mobo. A 45mm thick rad with 25mm push fan will fit perfect with _any_ motherboard because 120mm-series rad/fan mounts are also offset by ~54 mm (140mm series fans/rads are offset by ~44mm).



With that offset, as long as you don't have anything on your mobo taller than ~54mm, you can run even thicker rads in push pull.

Do note that you will pretty much lose the use of your top 5.25" bay with a 45mm 480 with push fans.

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

FYI, most of these type questions have been answered by Jesse over at themodzoo:

http://themodzoo.com/forum/index.php?/page/articles.html/_/reviews/cases/phanteks-enthoo-primo-full-tower-review-r67?pg=8
Quote:


> *Phanteks Enthoo Primo FAQ*
> 
> I have been getting questions all over the place, so I decided to take them all and put them in one place. If you have a question on this case, leave a comment and I will get it added in here.
> 
> *What is the max clearance for a radiator installed in the top panel?*
> 
> - The case has a clearance of 70mm for mounting a radiator in the roof. The mounts are offset by ~54mm so installing a 60mm (120mm series) radiator in push pull should not be an issue. As long as you do not have anything taller than 53mm on the motherboard (including ram), you can even install a 480mm monsta radiator in push pull. The X79 Dark, and G-Skill ram CAN be used with a monsta rad in push pull.
> 
> *What is the space between the top of the case, and the top of the top 5.25" drive bay?*
> 
> - The space from the top of the case to the top of the top 5.25" drive bay is 55mm or 2.16 inches. A single drive bay is 41.3mm tall, so 55+41 = 96mm. That is enough space to mount a 45mm or a 60mm rad in push pull and only loose the top drive bay.
> 
> Dont forget the fittings if you have them facing the front as they might take more space and ...
> 
> [...]
> 
> *Can I fit a 140mm series, 60mm radiator in the roof of the case in push/pull?*
> 
> - No, a 140mm series rad in 60mm will be too close to the motherboard heatsinks and the fans will come in the way. Users might be able to use a shroud or a 140mm to 120mm fan adapter on the 140mm rad and use 120mm fans.
> 
> *Can I fit a 120mm series, 60mm thick radiator in the roof of the case in push/pull?*
> 
> - Yes, the only things that will come in the way are if you are using some ultra-high profile RAM like the corsair dominator. The case has a clearance of 70mm on the inside, and the radiator mounts are offset a bit. Some motherboards might have issues with VRM water blocks and having a 120mm rad in push pull.
> 
> ....more ...


----------



## carmas

Thanks Unicr0nhunter and the others too. Yes, I know that on the ModZoo it was already said that there is a clearance of 70mm, but I was just curious to know in the end how comfortable it is, having the 480mm rad rather than a 420mm.
As for the top 5.25" bay, I didn't plan on using it in the first place.

This said, you guys convinced me: tonight I'll pull the trigger and order the 480mm XT45 radiator.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> Well almost .... meybe it just needs some working in but getting the female disconnect off when ya can't really hold on to the other side is a PITA .... the 30mm extensions tends to unscrew....
> 
> Now I ciouls just as easily go the other way under the HD cages but remember....that's the "wall side" of the case. What I really need is one of these
> 
> That's a 1/2" wire saddle ... the male QD is 24mm so a 1" shud work fine .... anyone know where I can find one ?
> 
> Anyone have another suggestion ?


How about something like this?

http://www.skylinemodels.co.uk/24mm-Boom-Clamp.html

Or make one out of a piece of aluminum or black plastic. Drill a 24mm hole, drill either side for clamping/mounting screw, cut hole in half with band saw and the space removed by saw cut allow the 24mm hole to clamp the extension.

Designed like a split pillow bloke, just much simpler.









Edit:
Googling "boom clamp" should give you lots of images.

$1.25
http://multicopterframeshop.com/index.php/frame-parts/quadro/clamp24-detail

$3.99
http://www.ebay.com/itm/25mm-Id-Plastic-Clamp-Set-Of-4pcs-DJI-Wookong-M-Cinestar-Multirotor-DIY-CF-Boom-/221316451411?pt=Radio_Control_Parts_Accessories&hash=item33877d0c53

Might find something in a bike shop. Handlebars are usually 24mm.


----------



## Hooy

How do you guys feel about velcro/double sided tape mounting a Photon 170 or 270 to the right of the motherboard grommets with the res bracket removed? I would really like a Photon but it can't be mounted anywhere but there unless I wanted to sacrifice a cleaner tube run and my EVGA SLI bridge... I'm also not keen on drilling holes in the case or chopping up the res bracket.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hooy*
> 
> How do you guys feel about velcro/double sided tape mounting a Photon 170 or 270 to the right of the motherboard grommets with the res bracket removed? I would really like a Photon but it can't be mounted anywhere but there unless I wanted to sacrifice a cleaner tube run and my EVGA SLI bridge... I'm also not keen on drilling holes in the case or chopping up the res bracket.


Feels like a chewing gum / duct tape / baling wire / Macgyver to me.


----------



## Hooy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Feels like a chewing gum / duct tape / baling wire / Macgyver to me.


Yeah I was afraid that'd be the case, but do you think (despite the ghetto mounting) that it'd look good? I mean the Photon Mounting plate is a solid piece so you won't see it through the tube or anything..


----------



## doyll

Velcro would probably hold it but it's made to "peel" loose. When mounted on flat surfaces it can be quite hard to remove... as hard as good double stick tape.

Myself, I would drill and mount it properly.









But than my EP is being built on air.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

FWIW, I'm mounting a Photon 270 D5 pump combo on the res bracket. I've already had it set up in there exactly where it's going to go and it just fits. I don't have to worry about clearance with my GPUs as my 4GB 760s have a short 6" PCB so I'm able to keep not only the res bracket, but I'm also keeping the plastic cover on it too just because I like how it looks better hiding the right side with the cables on the mobo.

I am going to have to drill my own holes in the res bracket & plastic cover to mount it, and I'll even have to drill a lower set of top mounting holes in the Photon's mounting plate and tap threads in them because the top holes in the Photon's plate as they are sit too high above the place where the upper part of the res bracket slopes back. Still, none of that is a very big deal to me.

I'm only going to have about ~7mm below the bottom of the pump and ~15mm above the top of the res for it to fit between the fans on top of my monsta rad on the bottom and the push fans on the bottom of my XT45 rad in the top, so it's going to be a _very_ tight fit, but it WILL fit.

I even ordered a set of Anex super-thin offset screwdrivers (They're Japanese-made. I couldn't find anything like them in the US, had to get them shipped from overseas) that are only 10mm wide so I'll be able to open/close the fill port in the top of the res in such a tight space. I won't actually be needing to fill water in it since I'll be using a top port on my top rad for a fill port, but I will need to be able to open up the fill port in the res to let air escape so the water can fill the res as I fill my loop & I'll cap it off when the res gets full.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *borax*
> 
> @JackNaylorPE
> 
> Thanks for the info dude. Definitely shall prove useful.
> 
> I'm looking at the Xspc d5 photon res/pump mounted on the bottom combo. Only because I think it looks pretty good and makes my life easier than having a pump in the back compartment. Would this fit onto the backplate/chassis if I remove the backplate?
> 
> Thanks.


If it would fit, it's going to be a difficult install. I have a 60mm .... w/ 2-2 mm on one side and 12-13 on the other. Add that up and you at 75mm

The Combo pump / res is listed as 85 mm. The res bu itself 75mm. So 1/2 mm off on ya drilling and ya sunk.....also think about getting stuff in and out.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *carmas*
> 
> Has anyone mounted yet a 480mm XT45 in p/p on top?
> I would like to hear/see some experiences with this rad and the Enthoo Primo, because I am still deciding whether to order the 480mm XT45 or the slimmer 480mm ST30 to have more clearance on top.


UT 60 is iffy depending on ya MoBo.....XT45 is cake @ 480 but might wanna think about the 420 as it has some advantages....

More cooling / surface area
Matches existing Phanteks fans
Allows fill / air bleed ports from top of RAD

There's PDF in post # 1000 with all internal dimension sand clearances

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> I'd probably use Loctite Threadlocker Blue 242 on the threads between the QDC and the extension, and the extension and the 90 deg rotary. I use it a lot at work and always have some handy at home. It's the loctite that disassembles with hand tools when you need to, but holds until then. Alternatively, you could use loctite red instead, and that would hold for sure, but you may not be able to get the fittings apart later on without a couple pair of vice grips / channel locks and some serious elbow grease. I definitely wouldn't use loctite of any kind on the threads of the 90 going into the rad, but between fittings that's what I'd use to keep them from turning when I didn't want them to, but I'd still be able to get them apart if/when need be. You can get Loctite blue or red at any decent auto parts store.
> 
> EDIT:
> If you'd rather use a 'wire saddle' like you had pictured, maybe look for a "P clamp", though the largest I found were 3/4". Not sure if that's big enough for your needs.
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/10-x-3-4-Insulated-Clamps-P-Clamp-/260854907460?hash=item3cbc2a0244&vxp=mtr


Loctite is my next choice ...... and yes I was thinking the same thing about the rest..... GMTA ...







.... I did buy the P clamp last nite at local HD store.... it's very thick and rigid....won't "bend to fit. and also doesn't fit between the rad and mount.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Or make one out of a piece of aluminum or black plastic. Drill a 24mm hole, drill either side for clamping/mounting screw, cut hole in half with band saw and the space removed by saw cut allow the 24mm hole to clamp the extension.


The problem there is their is no "either side" ... that's why went with the P clamp design cause metal only available on one side to mount to.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hooy*
> 
> How do you guys feel about velcro/double sided tape mounting a Photon 170 or 270 to the right of the motherboard grommets with the res bracket removed? I would really like a Photon but it can't be mounted anywhere but there unless I wanted to sacrifice a cleaner tube run and my EVGA SLI bridge... I'm also not keen on drilling holes in the case or chopping up the res bracket.


I don't see it. The only way I could see a Photon if ya can't use res bracket, is mounted horizontally above lower rad. When I was thinking about it, I was going to affix a smoked acrylic plate to the top of the PSU shroud and then mount the Photon to that.... have an old PDF somehwere

Single Loop Picture.pdf 89k .pdf file


----------



## jassilamba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *carmas*
> 
> Thanks Unicr0nhunter and the others too. Yes, I know that on the ModZoo it was already said that there is a clearance of 70mm, but I was just curious to know in the end how comfortable it is, having the 480mm rad rather than a 420mm.
> As for the top 5.25" bay, I didn't plan on using it in the first place.
> 
> This said, you guys convinced me: tonight I'll pull the trigger and order the 480mm XT45 radiator.


Sometimes its nice to get a verbal confirmation from others, and I like that to personally. You should be able to slide in your 360 rad from the 5.25" drive bay.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hooy*
> 
> How do you guys feel about velcro/double sided tape mounting a Photon 170 or 270 to the right of the motherboard grommets with the res bracket removed? I would really like a Photon but it can't be mounted anywhere but there unless I wanted to sacrifice a cleaner tube run and my EVGA SLI bridge... I'm also not keen on drilling holes in the case or chopping up the res bracket.


Use the tape of the gods - http://mnpctech.com/case-mods-gaming-pc-liquid-modding-custom-computer-mnpctech-overclock-cooling-fan-grills/3m-4010-tape.html

I have a photon 240 installed in a Dell XPS case, and those cases are heavier than anything (all solid thick aluminum construction). I can lift the whole case by just grabbing the reservoir.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Or make one out of a piece of aluminum or black plastic. Drill a 24mm hole, drill either side for clamping/mounting screw, cut hole in half with band saw and the space removed by saw cut allow the 24mm hole to clamp the extension.
> 
> 
> 
> The problem there is their is no "either side" ... that's why went with the P clamp design cause metal only available on one side to mount to.
Click to expand...

Maybe make one out of a piece of strap metal. Bend the 90* and wrap it around something slightly smaller, clamp and drill. Than cut off ends, dress clean and paint or Plasti Dip if you want a rubberized finish.

Or maybe something like a 3/4 in - 1 in Steel Conduit and Pipe Hanger?


----------



## borax

@JackNaylorPE

Thanks for the info. Having considered what you said I think I would be better of going with a separate pump to the combined combo res. Has anyone or yourself tried the primochill 240mm ctr compression res? Along with an aquacomputer pump.

http://specialtech.co.uk/spshop/customer/Primochill-240mm-CTR-Compression-Tube-Low-Profile-Base-Reservoir-System--Clear-pid-18009.html


----------



## borax

Hey guys was just thinking rather than going with the d5/Photon res combo ide rather go with a single res on its own and a seperate pump mounted on the bracket in the back off the case. Would something like Primochill 240mm CTR compression tube res fit? If so are they any good?

http://specialtech.co.uk/spshop/customer/Primochill-240mm-CTR-Compression-Tube-Low-Profile-Base-Reservoir-System--Clear-pid-18009.html

Or even a FrozenQ Reactor Core Tube res 250mm?

http://www.watercoolinguk.co.uk/p/FrozenQ-Reactor-Core-250mm_20636.html

thanks guys.


----------



## William Clement

n.v.m see next post.


----------



## William Clement

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> OK, now I need help with one..... Here's my drain line on the underside of an Alphacool 280 Rad at bottom of enthoo..... worked out just perfect.


Could you be so kind and say what extender + 90degree couling you used here? I am thinking about a similiar settup for draining. But then only on the other side (port 7) of my monsta 280 in the bottom.

Either i go use the qd4 or just go with a crane. Have both laying here.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Maybe make one out of a piece of strap metal. Bend the 90* and wrap it around something slightly smaller, clamp and drill. Than cut off ends, dress clean and paint or Plasti Dip if you want a rubberized finish.
> 
> Or maybe something like a 3/4 in - 1 in Steel Conduit and Pipe Hanger?


There's like 1 mm clearance all the way around....the P clamps were attractive cause the smooth and thin....anything that was not a pure circle of the exact diameter wuda been problematic.... appreciate the effort tho. In the end a combination of working the QD a few time to break in that O-ring and the lock-tite did the trick..... will upload a pic as soon as phone done updating.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *William Clement*
> 
> Could you be so kind and say what extender + 90degree couling you used here? I am thinking about a similiar settup for draining. But then only on the other side (port 7) of my monsta 280 in the bottom.
> 
> Either i go use the qd4 or just go with a crane. Have both laying here.


Sure....from rad to QD in order

*Name (what I call it) - (Name (what FCPU calls it) - FCPU stocl No. - Cost
Link*

G1/4" 90° Rotary Bend - Bitspower G1/4" Matte Black Rotary 90° G1/4" Adapter (BP-MB90R) - ex-tub-629$11.99
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/10376/ex-tub-629/Bitspower_G14_Matte_Black_Rotary_90_G14_Adapter_BP-MB90R.html?tl=c101s1306b145

G1/4" Male by Male Extender-Bitspower Dual G1/4" Male / Male Fitting - Matte Black (BP-MBWP-C08) - ex-tub-609$5.25
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/10363/ex-tub-609/Bitspower_Dual_G14_Male_Male_Fitting_-_Matte_Black_BP-MBWP-C08.html?tl=c101s1354b145

G1/4 30mm Fitting Extender - Bitspower G1/4 Male to Female Extender - 30mm - Matte Black (BP-MBWP-C63) - ex-tub-777$7.99
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/12340/ex-tub-777/Bitspower_G14_Male_to_Female_Extender_-_30mm_-_Matte_Black_BP-MBWP-C63.html?tl=c101s1354b145

G1/4 Fitting Extender - Bitspower G 1/4" Thread Fitting Extender - Matte Black (BP-MBWP-C40) - ex-tub-700$2.99
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/10371/ex-tub-618/Bitspower_G_14_Thread_Fitting_Extender_-_Matte_Black_BP-MBWP-C40.html?tl=c101s1354b145#options

Quick-Disconnect for Drain - Bitspower Matte Black Quick-Disconnected Male w/ Inner G1/4 (BP-MBQDMIG14) - ex-tub-1636$19.95
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/17966/ex-tub-1636/Bitspower_Matte_Black_Quick-Disconnected_Male_w_Inner_G14_BP-MBQDMIG14.html

PROGRESS REPORT:

1. EK got me a 2nd and 3rd time..... Both Backplates for the Asus 780 water block were missing nuts..... it's all screws where the backplate and block are equal but the two end ones where there's backplate and no block (good thing no block or it wouldn't fit) need nuts or thew screw into air. Frozen offered to find and send something but I just went to HW store. Odd that they remembered ya washers but no nuts.

Then on CPU block I was disappointed to find 3 of the 4 needed washers..... FCPU immediately responded and offered to send

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/18737/scr-678/

They spare / replacement ones are .80mm so I checked instructions which say 0.70 mm .... then to be sure measured what I had .... I had 0.83mm, 0.87mm and 0.98mm thick. Now I don't think it will matter much whether that 0.7 or 0.8 ..... but seems to me they oughta all be the same. FCPU overnighting me a set.

2. I am no longer a hardlining n00b.

-Finished bottom rad => Top GFX card +> Top Rad run
-............................=> Bot GFX card +> Top Rad run
-MoBo => Reservoir run

Need 2 fittings for bottom rad => Bot GFX card

Need to install CPU WB to to that

Need to do pump .... res => Pump and Pump to Bottom rad ..... haven't decided whether to use flex for any of that (vibration isolation) need to finish mounting plate.

Anyway here's a pic..... hopefully will finish this weekend.



Was lot easier than I expected ..... though lotta measure once, cut 5 times stuff....parallel loop was hard to get square.

*QUESTION:*

Reflection kind blocks it out but there's a bitspower fill tube inside the res at top. Unfortunately, with only one top port, I realized that one the res fills past the bottom of the tube, that air is trapped. Was thinking of adding a tee at the res outlet and coming off horizontally to a bleed valve which would be closed except for "fill time". Would use compression fitting on downstream side of valve and length of tube to get it well above the rad.

Any other ideas to get some (not all) of the air out ? Want to leave some room in there ... about half the tube length just want safely under water to quell noise. oddly when I had it by itself outta the box filled with water.... every which way I tipped it never got a drop of air out..


----------



## doyll

Looking good!


----------



## ADragg

Have some questions for you, Jack, but no time to get into it right now. But in regards to the air getting trapped, could you unscrew the top of the res just a little so air could slowly escape? The only problem is that the fittings connected at the top are going to try to keep the cap in place, so you'd have to loosen then too. Could be a little scary if even possible. Seems a bad design feature on EK's part. I'm getting the same res but it has a single port on top with no bleed port and doesn't have a tube, so it inherently will splash water. I don't know why it didn't have a tube already built in and a bleed port instead of a single port on top... and yet the bottom has like 5 ports...


----------



## grizzly-rage

I've been eye balling this case for a while now... and it makes me drool









It's got a sleek, modern look to it.
The exterior is mostly aluminium and steel.
It has incredible space, incredible features, BUCKET loads of water cooling potential and the price tag?!?!!

ermahgerd!


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ADragg*
> 
> Have some questions for you, Jack, but no time to get into it right now. But in regards to the air getting trapped, could you unscrew the top of the res just a little so air could slowly escape? The only problem is that the fittings connected at the top are going to try to keep the cap in place, so you'd have to loosen then too. Could be a little scary if even possible. Seems a bad design feature on EK's part. I'm getting the same res but it has a single port on top with no bleed port and doesn't have a tube, so it inherently will splash water. I don't know why it didn't have a tube already built in and a bleed port instead of a single port on top... and yet the bottom has like 5 ports...


If your getting the EK res, then yours is the same as mine. I **added** the Bitspower fill port and so can you.....EK has one (clear) as an accessory .... PPC has it. I ordered the Bitspower from FCPU to keep ordering simple.

Bitspower G 1/4 Matte Black Aqua-Pipe I (BP-MBWP-C17) - ex-tub-714$7.50
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/11864/ex-tub-714/Bitspower_G_14_Matte_Black_Aqua-Pipe_I_BP-MBWP-C17.html?tl=c97s169b145

I thought about that but it's hard to get a grip on it when it's inside the case. The fittings are flexible....I took it out already to test..... cant to that one filled tho







.... The scary part is .... nuthin comes down the pipe unless ya break the seal and if ya do, everything comes down the pipe.


----------



## chrisnyc75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> Anyway here's a pic..... hopefully will finish this weekend.
> 
> 
> 
> Was lot easier than I expected ..... though lotta measure once, cut 5 times stuff....parallel loop was hard to get square.


Beautiful, nice job Jack


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Wanna come over and sleeve my cables ? My fingers hurt from tightening fittings







..... which seems to take specs of paint off here and there.


----------



## chrisnyc75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> Wanna come over and sleeve my cables ? My fingers hurt from tightening fittings
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ..... which seems to take specs of paint off here and there.


Ha! Tempting, but this weekend I'm [finally] putting together my own loop. Sleeving my psu cables (the pci-e ones that show, anyway) comes next.

It's incredible how much hard work it takes to build the perfect computer. lol


----------



## stilllogicz

Paying off my credit cards has seriously halted my build shopping.. time to fill em up again?!?! I got this beauty of a case sitting in my room like:


----------



## William Clement

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> Sure....from rad to QD in order
> 
> *Name (what I call it) - (Name (what FCPU calls it) - FCPU stocl No. - Cost
> Link*
> 
> G1/4" 90° Rotary Bend - Bitspower G1/4" Matte Black Rotary 90° G1/4" Adapter (BP-MB90R) - ex-tub-629$11.99
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/10376/ex-tub-629/Bitspower_G14_Matte_Black_Rotary_90_G14_Adapter_BP-MB90R.html?tl=c101s1306b145
> 
> G1/4" Male by Male Extender-Bitspower Dual G1/4" Male / Male Fitting - Matte Black (BP-MBWP-C08) - ex-tub-609$5.25
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/10363/ex-tub-609/Bitspower_Dual_G14_Male_Male_Fitting_-_Matte_Black_BP-MBWP-C08.html?tl=c101s1354b145
> 
> G1/4 30mm Fitting Extender - Bitspower G1/4 Male to Female Extender - 30mm - Matte Black (BP-MBWP-C63) - ex-tub-777$7.99
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/12340/ex-tub-777/Bitspower_G14_Male_to_Female_Extender_-_30mm_-_Matte_Black_BP-MBWP-C63.html?tl=c101s1354b145
> 
> G1/4 Fitting Extender - Bitspower G 1/4" Thread Fitting Extender - Matte Black (BP-MBWP-C40) - ex-tub-700$2.99
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/10371/ex-tub-618/Bitspower_G_14_Thread_Fitting_Extender_-_Matte_Black_BP-MBWP-C40.html?tl=c101s1354b145#options
> 
> Quick-Disconnect for Drain - Bitspower Matte Black Quick-Disconnected Male w/ Inner G1/4 (BP-MBQDMIG14) - ex-tub-1636$19.95
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/17966/ex-tub-1636/Bitspower_Matte_Black_Quick-Disconnected_Male_w_Inner_G14_BP-MBQDMIG14.html


Thank you this helps me a lot!


----------



## jassilamba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chrisnyc75*
> 
> Ha! Tempting, but this weekend I'm [finally] putting together my own loop. Sleeving my psu cables (the pci-e ones that show, anyway) comes next.
> 
> It's incredible how much hard work it takes to build the perfect computer. lol


It took me almost a week to get my build done, with a single 18 hour session of bending, and cutting tubing. Oh and not to forget that I did cutmyself, and I did burn myself.

The Enthoo build that I did, truely had blood and sweat involved in it.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *William Clement*
> 
> Thank you this helps me a lot!


Hope I remembered right









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jassilamba*
> 
> It took me almost a week to get my build done, with a single 18 hour session of bending, and cutting tubing. Oh and not to forget that I did cutmyself, and I did burn myself.
> 
> The Enthoo build that I did, truely had blood and sweat involved in it.


Well that's not a lot of encouragement for those of us who are relative n00bs !

I guess I spent 4 hours doing (hardlining tubing) what ya saw in my last pic....

..... and yes, scroll saw makes much nicer / faster cuts on tube than handsaw







Best part was .... it was my wife's so can't get in trouble for buying new tools for my addiction. been sitting in garage unused for about 8 years .... she used to use to make Xmas themed lawn ornaments.

Was wondering if ya had a suggestion for the res top air evacuation issue I mentioned at end of post # 1487 .... basically when ya use an inner fill tube in top res port to reduce noise, how do ya get the trapped air out..... the tube extends 2-1/2" roughly into the res of which I was hoping to fill half that space w/ coolant. With the only top hole connected to rigid tuning, the only option is unscrewing the top which seems scary in a full loop....and it's kinda hard to "get a grip". When I had it outta the case, flipping and turning I only managed to get the tube about 1/16th an inch into the fluid.

Only option I can think of is drilling a small hole in the top of the tube ..... just below the threads ..... it will "pee" a little bit but could be positioned towards the back and outta sight


----------



## chrisnyc75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jassilamba*
> 
> It took me almost a week to get my build done, with a single 18 hour session of bending, and cutting tubing. Oh and not to forget that I did cutmyself, and I did burn myself.
> 
> The Enthoo build that I did, truely had blood and sweat involved in it.


LOL! Yeah, that sounds about right.

I'm installing my blocks tonight, then building the loop tomorrow. I hope to have it filled tomorrow, but that might have to wait until Sunday depending on how long mounting and tubing everything takes. And don't even get me started on cable management.....and sleeving.....and little aesthetic mods.

Eventually, though, I will be able to sit back and game again on this gaming rig, right? lol


----------



## Hereisphilly

Finally got some pics of the castor case that @Doyll made me.
This thing is lovely, amazing quality and fits the case perfectly, it looks like it comes with it!
If you want one making yourself, hit him up and I'm sure an arrangement can be made!


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chrisnyc75*
> 
> Eventually, though, I will be able to sit back and game again on this gaming rig, right? lol


Last build (one of son's friends) I got the dreaded CPU error and after reseating the CPU 3 times, and testing everything else, turned out it was a bad GFX card. Tho all was working fine, I wake up at night fearing something will pop up with one of the GFX cards or CPU and I;ll have to take whole damn thing apart.


----------



## jassilamba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> Hope I remembered right
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well that's not a lot of encouragement for those of us who are relative n00bs !
> 
> I guess I spent 4 hours doing (hardlining tubing) what ya saw in my last pic....
> 
> ..... and yes, scroll saw makes much nicer / faster cuts on tube than handsaw
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Best part was .... it was my wife's so can't get in trouble for buying new tools for my addiction. been sitting in garage unused for about 8 years .... she used to use to make Xmas themed lawn ornaments.
> 
> Was wondering if ya had a suggestion for the res top air evacuation issue I mentioned at end of post # 1487 .... basically when ya use an inner fill tube in top res port to reduce noise, how do ya get the trapped air out..... the tube extends 2-1/2" roughly into the res of which I was hoping to fill half that space w/ coolant. With the only top hole connected to rigid tuning, the only option is unscrewing the top which seems scary in a full loop....and it's kinda hard to "get a grip". When I had it outta the case, flipping and turning I only managed to get the tube about 1/16th an inch into the fluid.
> 
> Only option I can think of is drilling a small hole in the top of the tube ..... just below the threads ..... it will "pee" a little bit but could be positioned towards the back and outta sight


Its time for you to place another order with Frozen, get another EK bottom, and use it as a top (http://www.frozencpu.com/products/18485/ex-res-481/EK_X3_Reservoir_Multiport_Replacement_Top_-_White_EK-RES_X3_-_Multiport_TOP_WHITE.html?tl=c615s1884b133#blank)

That would be the best solution as that will also help you when it comes time to drain or do anything else.

In a perfect world your fill port should work as your air vent port.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chrisnyc75*
> 
> LOL! Yeah, that sounds about right.
> 
> I'm installing my blocks tonight, then building the loop tomorrow. I hope to have it filled tomorrow, but that might have to wait until Sunday depending on how long mounting and tubing everything takes. And don't even get me started on cable management.....and sleeving.....and little aesthetic mods.
> 
> Eventually, though, I will be able to sit back and game again on this gaming rig, right? lol


Water cooling is easier than it looks. The first time is confusing as no matter how much research you do, nothing beats hands on. But yes you should be able to game or do what ever without any issues.


----------



## bond32

I bet I spent hours staring at all my goods, trying to figure out my loop. I'll post pictures later but have it all good now. Very please with the Koolance GPU block for the R9 290x, max core temp has been 48 C which is a nice change over the 95 + unbearable noise.

I feel like I should have a 240 rad on the side bracket but if I recall, I had space issues with drive in a drive cage there.


----------



## grizzly-rage

Can the dust filter at the top of the case be removed leaving only the perforated mesh?


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jassilamba*
> 
> Its time for you to place another order with Frozen, get another EK bottom, and use it as a top


Yeah thought of that .... what worried me tho if that once screwed on ...they wouldn't match direction....EK has that odd flat side which would look awkward if facing opposite directions.

That's happened on most of my fitting combos.... screwed together things wind up facing wrong way so have to use a C47 to get the right twist.

PS....thank you again...package arrived today..... damn postman arrived right after machine shop closed.
Quote:


> In a perfect world your fill port should work as your air vent port.


Seems to me that coming outta ya res to a "T-fitting" with a automatic bleed valve at the top and fill coming into the side of the "T" would be the defacto standard.
Quote:


> Water cooling is easier than it looks. The first time is confusing as no matter how much research you do, nothing beats hands on. But yes you should be able to game or do what ever without any issues


Well here's the part I don't understand ... I meticulously laid out everything in CAD and bought 67 separate fittings .... then ya get started and nothing lines up as it does in 2D paper layouts. In some cases expecting bigger distances, I had to use two 90's for small offsets that i thought wuda gone to s stretch of tubing.

I bought sixteen 90 degree bends and am 5 short .... I'm short an extender, cupla other odds and ends and yet I have six C47's, three C68's (female version of C47) left over.

*Questions:*

1. Anyone know the watt rating of a molex cable to PSU ? Wanted to combine the two power leads (18 watts each = 36 total) onto a single cable

2. Suggested location in Ehthoo for spare Bitspower temp sensor .... wanna use for inside case temperature measurement.

3. Anyone know of an ambient air temperature sensor that, ideally, could be mounted in room and wirelessly send a signal to the Raven Six Eyes inside the box ? original idea was to mount another Bitspower sensor thru a hole in the case grille but with 10 fans blowing in, I cab't imagine ahole anywhere that isn't blastic hot air out.


----------



## jassilamba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *grizzly-rage*
> 
> Can the dust filter at the top of the case be removed leaving only the perforated mesh?


Yes,

1. Remove the top filter.
2. Using some needle nose pliers, gently lift the tabs that hold the mesh down and in place. Be careful, and be gentle and slow. You don't wanna break those.
3. With the tabs all straight, gently remove the mesh from the plastic skeleton or whatever else you want to call it.
4. Now you are free to try out a new mesh, or what ever else design you have in mind. And ofcourse you can ditch the filter if thats what you want.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> Yeah thought of that .... what worried me tho if that once screwed on ...they wouldn't match direction....EK has that odd flat side which would look awkward if facing opposite directions.
> 
> That's happened on most of my fitting combos.... screwed together things wind up facing wrong way so have to use a C47 to get the right twist.
> 
> PS....thank you again...package arrived today..... damn postman arrived right after machine shop closed.
> Seems to me that coming outta ya res to a "T-fitting" with a automatic bleed valve at the top and fill coming into the side of the "T" would be the defacto standard.
> 
> *Question:*
> 
> Anyone know the watt rating of a molex cable to PSU ? Wanted to combine the two power leads (18 watts each = 36 total) onto a single cable


You my friend are very welcome. Remember you can always bleed the air from the top rad as well. That is another thing that I do.


----------



## grizzly-rage

Thanks mate









Can a 420 rad be fit at the bottom?


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jassilamba*
> 
> You my friend are very welcome.


Ya new Enthoo build.... using Bitspower matte black fittings perchance ? ... looks like I may have a few leftover....though the number is shrinking. Here's the pump plate in it's "place of honor"



Hopefully I can get the machining and inscription done tomorrow. "This pump mount donated by ....." it goes on for three more paragraphs









Pic is a lil crooked, one if the legs slipped off the plate ..... decided to go with two short (2.5") pieces of flex tube to keep any pump vibrations from transmitting to the rigid loop.

Quote:


> Remember you can always bleed the air from the top rad as well. That is another thing that I do.


I have a bleed there ..... two 30mm extensions take me up from the top rad port to just under the mesh filter ..... here's a pic of the bleeder one in place .... put 10" tube under the valve to allow for my lightning reflexes









The other one I'm saving for last .... make sure I have enuff tube

-Mini-valve
-10" of tube
-C47
-Plug (remove)
-30 mm G-1/4 extension
-Rad



I'm hoping one will let air out and allow fluid in thru other..... still won't get air outta res tho ....

The funnel on top is a joke .... can't believe I bought that silly thing.... keeping it around to teach me humility ..... holds like half a shot.... that's what happens when ya make purchases thru pictures .... should be a "objects you see in this window may be smaller than they appear"....... (now wondering if a certain Congressman Anthony from NY did the same ) :0 !

Gonna send wife out tomorrow for a real funnel that fits in a C47 fitting.

*Question / Poll / Place ya bets !*

How many of you are thinking my wife is gonna get her dining room table back by Thanksgiving ?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *grizzly-rage*
> 
> Thanks mate
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Can a 420 rad be fit at the bottom?


480 yes, 420 now .... 280 is max for 140mm wide uness ya hack up the panel with the Phanteks nameplate.


----------



## borax

Hi guys just a quick question. Wandering if anyone can help. I've ordered a Primochill 240mm Ctr Low profile reservoir. It is 248mm by 63mm width. Would it be feasible to mount on the provided bracket?

Thanks.


----------



## ADragg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> If your getting the EK res, then yours is the same as mine. I **added** the Bitspower fill port and so can you.....EK has one (clear) as an accessory .... PPC has it. I ordered the Bitspower from FCPU to keep ordering simple.
> 
> Bitspower G 1/4 Matte Black Aqua-Pipe I (BP-MBWP-C17) - ex-tub-714$7.50
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/11864/ex-tub-714/Bitspower_G_14_Matte_Black_Aqua-Pipe_I_BP-MBWP-C17.html?tl=c97s169b145
> 
> I thought about that but it's hard to get a grip on it when it's inside the case. The fittings are flexible....I took it out already to test..... cant to that one filled tho
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .... The scary part is .... nuthin comes down the pipe unless ya break the seal and if ya do, everything comes down the pipe.


Do you think it's something that would resolve itself once the pump starts running and the system gets full? I'm wondering if I should just get that replacement top that matches the bottom, even if it might not look as good. Also not sure if the Bitspower Aqua Pipe will fit the alternate top, whereas we know if fits the stock top with the single hole. How does that pipe even work? Does it screw in from the inside of the lid, and if so how do you attach a fitting to the top it (i.e. the top of the res)? It doesn't look like the kind of pipe that has an external portion that accepts a G1/4 fitting, so I'm kind of puzzled.

Other questions (sorry):
-I saw the post where you explained how your drain setup is laid out, but how does it actually work for draining? You've basically got one half of a quick disconnect at the end which holds the water in (until you add the other half), right? So do you have the other half of the compression fitting that you just plug in to open the thing and allow coolant to flow out?

-For that top rad fill/bleed setup, do those 30mm extensions and plug stay permanently installed, and if so, does the top mesh panel fit over the top of them when you put it back on? I would think they'd stick out too high.

Thanks


----------



## Deepblue77

I am moving to a caselabs case soon. If any of you guys live around Boston and want a free Primo let me know. Otherwise it will just end up in the trash.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deepblue77*
> 
> I am moving to a caselabs case soon. If any of you guys live around Boston and want a free Primo let me know. Otherwise it will just end up in the trash.


Damn I'm in NY .... but I'd drive to Boston for a free Primo ..... even if I do have one already


----------



## doyll

I would go for it but my little boat wouldn't make it from here to there and back.


----------



## ERMugs

Thought I'd signup and join in, seeing as I got a Primo this week.

IMG_20131123_1303361.jpg 2562k .jpg file


Still not entirely sure on how I'm going to route the piping. Couple ideas in my head, but will be a case of playing around and see what looks the cleanest/shortest.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ERMugs*
> 
> Thought I'd signup and join in, seeing as I got a Primo this week.
> 
> IMG_20131123_1303361.jpg 2562k .jpg file
> 
> 
> Still not entirely sure on how I'm going to route the piping. Couple ideas in my head, but will be a case of playing around and see what looks the cleanest/shortest.


Looking good so far.









Are you leaving the 5.25 bays side panel out or shortening it?


----------



## ERMugs

I'll be putting it back in, as it does add a bit of rigidity to the chassis as a whole. I've found it quite flexible since taking it out to build up.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ADragg*
> 
> Do you think it's something that would resolve itself once the pump starts running and the system gets full? I'm wondering if I should just get that replacement top that matches the bottom, even if it might not look as good. Also not sure if the Bitspower Aqua Pipe will fit the alternate top, whereas we know if fits the stock top with the single hole. How does that pipe even work? Does it screw in from the inside of the lid, and if so how do you attach a fitting to the top it (i.e. the top of the res)? It doesn't look like the kind of pipe that has an external portion that accepts a G1/4 fitting, so I'm kind of puzzled.


No....no way for air to escape.

As for replacement top .....





Make sure ya get the extenders for any connections to top side..... EK had a 17mm recessed hole..... Bitspower fitting knurls are 18mm

The 2 holes on flat vertical surface won't need em but any exterior fittings on the top round horizontal surface will. Interior aquatube has no knurl.

G1/4 Fitting Extender - Bitspower G 1/4" Thread Fitting Extender - Matte Black (BP-MBWP-C40) - ex-tub-700 $2.99
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/10371/ex-tub-618/Bitspower_G_14_Thread_Fitting_Extender_-_Matte_Black_BP-MBWP-C40.html?tl=c101s1354b145#options

Quote:


> -I saw the post where you explained how your drain setup is laid out, but how does it actually work for draining? You've basically got one half of a quick disconnect at the end which holds the water in (until you add the other half), right? So do you have the other half of the compression fitting that you just plug in to open the thing and allow coolant to flow out?


Ok ya saw the parts for the fixed part .... parts list for rest is

-Quick-Disconnect for Drain - Bitspower Matte Black Quick-Disconnected Female w/ G1/4 Thread (BP-MBQDFG14) - ex-tub-1635$23.50http://www.frozencpu.com/products/17965/ex-tub-1635/Bitspower_Matte_Black_Quick-Disconnected_Female_w_G14_Thread_BP-MBQDFG14.html

-F x F Extender - Bitspower G1/4 Female to Female Extender - 30mm - Matte Black (BP-MBWP-C74) - ex-tub-953 - $7.99
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/13555/ex-tub-953/Bitspower_G14_Female_to_Female_Extender_-_30mm_-_Matte_Black_BP-MBWP-C74.html?tl=c101s1354b145&id=4NiLmkLB&mv_pc=2463

-G1/4" x Compression Connector (Male)-Bitspower G1/4 Thread 3/8" ID x 1/2" OD Rotary Compression Fitting - Matte Black (BP-MBRCPF-CC2) - ex-tub-700$13.99http://www.frozencpu.com/products/11107/ex-tub-700/Bitspower_G14_Thread_38_ID_x_12_OD_Rotary_Compression_Fitting_-_Matte_Black_BP-MBRCPF-CC2.html?tl=c409s1032b145

- Tubing-Tygon 2475 Ultra Chemical Resistant Plasticizer Free Tubing - 3/8" ID (1/2" OD) - Clear (ACG00027) - ex-tub-663$2.75
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/10691/ex-tub-663/Tygon_2475_Ultra_Chemical_Resistant_Plasticizer_Free_Tubing_-_38_ID_12_OD_-_Clear_ACG00027.html
Quote:


> -For that top rad fill/bleed setup, do those 30mm extensions and plug stay permanently installed, and if so, does the top mesh panel fit over the top of them when you put it back on? I would think they'd stick out too high.


Nope ... measured it w/ a caliper....fits purrfect....there are shorter extensions if ya worried .... 10mm - 50mm

http://www.frozencpu.com/cat/l3/g/c101/s1354/list/p1/b145/Bitspower_International_Co_Ltd-Fittings-Accessories-Fitting_Extenders-Page1.html?id=4NiLmkLB&mv_pc=2303

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *borax*
> 
> Hi guys just a quick question. Wandering if anyone can help. I've ordered a Primochill 240mm Ctr Low profile reservoir. It is 248mm by 63mm width. Would it be feasible to mount on the provided bracket?
> 
> Thanks.


The determining factor is GFX card length .... if card is less than 10.6, I'd say you good.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ERMugs*
> 
> Thought I'd signup and join in, seeing as I got a Primo this week.
> 
> Still not entirely sure on how I'm going to route the piping. Couple ideas in my head, but will be a case of playing around and see what looks the cleanest/shortest.


What's in the loop ? Don't See any rads ?

What I did was take out lower 3.5" HD cage and put pump there...... Pump => Lower rad (top inside port) => parallel feed GPU loop => Top Rad (Bot Outsider port) => CPU Top Port => MoBo Bottom Port => Reservor => Pump


----------



## ERMugs

I've got a 480 to go in the floor and putting a 360 up top.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Well than what I said works tho'd Id reverse the rads .....the 360 on the bottom will allow ya t add a rad in front at some point or put ya pump under HD cages.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

These seemed to have gotten lost in the original loooong post ..... so

Questions:

1. Anyone know the watt rating of a molex cable to PSU ? Wanted to combine the two power leads (18 watts each = 36 total) from the 35x2 onto a single cable.

2. Anyone have any idea if the 35x2 can safely run with just one pump plugged in ? It is touted as redundant if one pump fails but it seems like a good way to fill a loop since I won't be able to get in and adjust fan profile in BIOS till after it's running

3. Suggested location in Ehthoo for spare Bitspower temp sensor .... wanna use for inside case temperature measurement.

4. Anyone know of an ambient air temperature sensor that, ideally, could be mounted in room and wirelessly send a signal to the Raven Six Eyes inside the box ? original idea was to mount another Bitspower sensor thru a hole in the case grille but with 10 fans blowing in, I cab't imagine ahole anywhere that isn't blastic hot air out.


----------



## jassilamba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> These seemed to have gotten lost in the original loooong post ..... so
> 
> Questions:
> 
> 1. Anyone know the watt rating of a molex cable to PSU ? Wanted to combine the two power leads (18 watts each = 36 total) from the 35x2 onto a single cable.
> 
> 2. Anyone have any idea if the 35x2 can safely run with just one pump plugged in ? It is touted as redundant if one pump fails but it seems like a good way to fill a loop since I won't be able to get in and adjust fan profile in BIOS till after it's running
> 
> 3. Suggested location in Ehthoo for spare Bitspower temp sensor .... wanna use for inside case temperature measurement.
> 
> 4. Anyone know of an ambient air temperature sensor that, ideally, could be mounted in room and wirelessly send a signal to the Raven Six Eyes inside the box ? original idea was to mount another Bitspower sensor thru a hole in the case grille but with 10 fans blowing in, I cab't imagine ahole anywhere that isn't blastic hot air out.


1. No idea

2. You should be fine, no issues there.

3. Does not matter where you put it, since you have almost everything under water. If you really wanted to, I would put something around the south bridge.

4. I have a wall clock that displays the ambient temp lol.

______________________________________

I will just leave this here, and walk away.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> These seemed to have gotten lost in the original loooong post ..... so
> 
> Questions:
> 
> 1. Anyone know the watt rating of a molex cable to PSU ? Wanted to combine the two power leads (18 watts each = 36 total) from the 35x2 onto a single cable.
> 
> 2. Anyone have any idea if the 35x2 can safely run with just one pump plugged in ? It is touted as redundant if one pump fails but it seems like a good way to fill a loop since I won't be able to get in and adjust fan profile in BIOS till after it's running
> 
> 3. Suggested location in Ehthoo for spare Bitspower temp sensor .... wanna use for inside case temperature measurement.
> 
> 4. Anyone know of an ambient air temperature sensor that, ideally, could be mounted in room and wirelessly send a signal to the Raven Six Eyes inside the box ? original idea was to mount another Bitspower sensor thru a hole in the case grille but with 10 fans blowing in, I cab't imagine ahole anywhere that isn't blastic hot air out.


*1. 4 pin molex 8981 are rated 12 volt 11 amp. 30c temp. rise.
But I would limit it to 5 amp. I don't like the idea of 50c connections in a 20c room









*2. No idea.

*3. Somewhere near hot chips on motherboard.

*4. No idea.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jassilamba*
> 
> 1. No idea
> 
> 2. You should be fine, no issues there.
> 
> 3. Does not matter where you put it, since you have almost everything under water. If you really wanted to, I would put something around the south bridge.
> 
> 4. I have a wall clock that displays the ambient temp lol.


3. That's what i was thinking .... I mean about the not mattering part. ....south bridge ? .... ya mean the one in Joisey ?









4. I have a weather station but ya know hat that empty 6th channel does to use engineer types ...... now that we have a solution we have to obsess about finding a problem for it to solve !

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> *1. 4 pin molex 8981 are rated 12 volt 11 amp. 30c temp. rise.
> But I would limit it to 5 amp. I don't like the idea of 50c connections in a 20c room
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *2. No idea.
> 
> *3. Somewhere near hot chips on motherboard.
> 
> *4. No idea.


Well lets see....

1. I know I read somewhere that it was 18 x 2 .... but here:

http://martinsliquidlab.org/2012/01/29/swiftech-mcp35x2-pump/6/

says power peaked at 51.52 watts and 4.29 amps..... so even though I'll never see it, combining the two into one molex connector should not be an issue.

2. Jesse got that one.

3. The big stuff is WC'd..... the rest I have 3 temp sensors going to the MoBo that I can place somewhere (haven't thot where yet). Function is to display case air temp so i can compare ambient, case interior and water temps and monitor what effect any chnages have on either .... strictly for educational purposes (aka schlitz and giggles)

4. Figured 4 wud be the tough one


----------



## Gunilla95

So guys. Your all watercooling experts in my opinion.
From which point is it worth to have 2 pumps?
Im ordering a enthoo in the beginning of next month.
Gonna have a 280 Monsta, a 360 60mm and maybe another 240. Full motherboard cooling (2 mosfets and one big block) cpu and graphics.

i have a alphacool vpp655 and thinking about buying another one and fit in bitspowers dual block. is it worth?


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jassilamba*
> 
> I will just leave this here, and walk away.


It's naked!









Looks much better covered up.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by JackNaylorPE
> 
> 4. Anyone know of an ambient air temperature sensor that, ideally, could be mounted in room and wirelessly send a signal to the Raven Six Eyes inside the box ? original idea was to mount another Bitspower sensor thru a hole in the case grille but with 10 fans blowing in, I cab't imagine ahole anywhere that isn't blastic hot air out.


Mount sensor in front of a front intake fan. Room temp air from room will be flowing over it into case.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gunilla95*
> 
> So guys. Your all watercooling experts in my opinion.
> From which point is it worth to have 2 pumps?
> Im ordering a enthoo in the beginning of next month.
> Gonna have a 280 Monsta, a 360 60mm and maybe another 240. Full motherboard cooling (2 mosfets and one big block) cpu and graphics.
> 
> i have a alphacool vpp655 and thinking about buying another one and fit in bitspowers dual block. is it worth?


http://www.overclock.net/t/1445280/tubing-sizes-and-efficiencies/10#post_21252265

Flex tube or acrylic ? ... low restriction blocks or high ?

http://www.overclock.net/t/1445280/tubing-sizes-and-efficiencies/10#post_21252265

Three reasons I went with 2 (Swiftech 35x2)

1. See post # 18 .... 7 psi

2. Redundancy if one fails

3. Quiet things down ... at 1.5 gpm and 7 psi, it's at 50% PWM

I have a 4th now..... mounted on its heat sink it looks frakin cool


----------



## Darshan

Hi everyone







I received my Enthoo Primo. Can I get into the club?

I am very happy. This box is huge and really spacious. Fun for mounting and cable management. Soon I will spend all my configuration watercooling!

For cons, I have some question:

I can plug a molex plug on the fan controller? There is a sticker that says do not connect anything above?

Where to plug the cable led strip? And 12v?

Thank you for your answers. Photos will arrive soon!


----------



## Gunilla95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1445280/tubing-sizes-and-efficiencies/10#post_21252265
> 
> Flex tube or acrylic ? ... low restriction blocks or high ?
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1445280/tubing-sizes-and-efficiencies/10#post_21252265
> 
> Three reasons I went with 2 (Swiftech 35x2)
> 
> 1. See post # 18 .... 7 psi
> 
> 2. Redundancy if one fails
> 
> 3. Quiet things down ... at 1.5 gpm and 7 psi, it's at 50% PWM
> 
> I have a 4th now..... mounted on its heat sink it looks frakin cool


Looks nice mate!
Okey gonna be honest, didn't understand half of all that you where writing in the other thread.
well i got flex tubing. 10/13 mm.
i know that the motherboard blocks are high flow couse i bought them 3 days ago.
but not shure about my graphic card (http://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-fc-titan-se.html) nor my Cpu block (http://www.ekwb.com/shop/blocks/cpu-blocks/supreme-ltx/ek-supreme-ltx-csq.html)

so.. thanks for you reply anyway


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darshan*
> 
> Hi everyone
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I received my Enthoo Primo. Can I get into the club?
> 
> I am very happy. This box is huge and really spacious. Fun for mounting and cable management. Soon I will spend all my configuration watercooling!
> 
> For cons, I have some question:
> 
> I can plug a molex plug on the fan controller? There is a sticker that says do not connect anything above?
> 
> Where to plug the cable led strip? And 12v?
> 
> Thank you for your answers. Photos will arrive soon!


Welcome aboard.








Anybody who wants to be here is a member.
We're that easy.









Yes, you can plug the molex to PSU and 4pin PWM to motherboard and controller. That's how it works.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darshan*
> 
> Hi everyone
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I received my Enthoo Primo. Can I get into the club?
> 
> I am very happy. This box is huge and really spacious. Fun for mounting and cable management. Soon I will spend all my configuration watercooling!
> 
> For cons, I have some question:
> 
> I can plug a molex plug on the fan controller? There is a sticker that says do not connect anything above?
> 
> Where to plug the cable led strip? And 12v?
> 
> Thank you for your answers. Photos will arrive soon!


-The sticker thing was discussed oh about 100 pages back







..... With the provided fans it's not needed ...add more and I'd use it.

-When you buy an LED strip, you plug it in there.

-The 12v thing goes to the LED PCB, power switch area. See page 11 in the manual.


----------



## doyll

Is than any reason to not use the molex power even if not running maximum load on motherboard header?

I mean the 5 stock fans are rated 1.8w each. That's 9w total (assuming startup load is not more than 1.8w).. most motherboards are rated 1amp / 12w With 10% safety margin that's all I would want a motherboard fan header powering.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Is than any reason to not use the molex power even if not running maximum load on motherboard header?
> 
> I mean the 5 stock fans are rated 1.8w each. That's 9w total (assuming startup load is not more than 1.8w).. most motherboards are rated 1amp / 12w With 10% safety margin that's all I would want a motherboard fan header powering.


I don't know ..... I was scared at first .... I mean I remember when that "Do Not Remove" tag fell off my pillow I thought the pillow police would knock down the door one knight and take me away from my parents".










All kidding aside, you've done the math and it's sound. I think the warning is a case of something getting "lost in translation". I have seen headers blown with as little as a 3rd fan ($90 Asrock mobo) .....inrush current can be as high as 6 - 10 times running amps on a electric motor buy since fans are very low torque, they never see that.


----------



## jassilamba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gunilla95*
> 
> Looks nice mate!
> Okey gonna be honest, didn't understand half of all that you where writing in the other thread.
> well i got flex tubing. 10/13 mm.
> i know that the motherboard blocks are high flow couse i bought them 3 days ago.
> but not shure about my graphic card (http://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-fc-titan-se.html) nor my Cpu block (http://www.ekwb.com/shop/blocks/cpu-blocks/supreme-ltx/ek-supreme-ltx-csq.html)
> 
> so.. thanks for you reply anyway


One pump is all you need. If you every saw my review build I just had 1 pump running everything.

That alpha cool is a great pump to and should be all you need.

Gpu blocks are very low restriction so you should be good.

Keep it simple.


----------



## borax

Hi guys I've ordered me some primochill rigid acrylic tubing. My question is, is my only option to use their own ghost compression fittings? There hard to get hold of in the UK.

Thanks.


----------



## shiv15

Has anyone mounted a d5 on the provided bracket for a pump on the backside of the case? I am looking to use the EK res, mounted to the back to the chassis and going straight down through the provided opening. I would prefer to not use any king of angled fitting to inlet into the d5 and I want the outlet side to be pointed to the front of the case.

I plan to utilize the 240mm on the side bracket. I have an mcp355 pump right now which looks like it will be easier to mount, but I have heard good things about the d5 and am considering switching.

This, or a similar top:
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/17667/ex-pmp-222/EK_D5_X-Top_Acrylic_Pump_Top_CSQ_-_Laing_D5_and_Swiftech_MCP-650655_EK-D5_X-TOP_CSQ_-_Plexi.html?tl=g30c107s1805#blank

Is this the bracket to mount the inlet facing vertical?
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/21469/ex-pmp-78v/UNDesigns_Infinite_Pump_Bracket_-_Vertical_for_Laing_DDCD4D5_pump_.html?tl=g30c107s156#blank

Assuming I keep the mcp355, can that cover: 1 cpu, 2 gpu, 480, 420, 240 and roughly 5 90* fittings? This is through rigid acrylic tubing.


----------



## shiv15

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *borax*
> 
> Hi guys I've ordered me some primochill rigid acrylic tubing. My question is, is my only option to use their own ghost compression fittings? There hard to get hold of in the UK.
> 
> Thanks.


They also have their "revolver" style fittings. http://www.frozencpu.com/products/21538/ex-tub-2094/PrimoChilll_12_OD_Rigid_Revolver_Compression_Straight_Knurled_Fittings_-_4_Pack_-_Anodized_Black.html


----------



## borax

Thanks shiv, apart from frozencpu do you know if anyone is stocking them in the uk/ europe? If not do frozencpu ship out to the uk?


----------



## shiv15

http://www.frozencpu.com/help/h18/Ordering_from_outside_of_the_US.html#99

I have no idea about UK vendors, but it looks like they ship international.


----------



## borax

Nice! I think ide rather go with the revolver fittings!







thanks mate.


----------



## Banedox

Hmm so I am thinking of doing a Moded Watercooled case with this guy, not sure i should do it, how is this over the 900D or even modding my FT02...


----------



## Gunilla95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jassilamba*
> 
> One pump is all you need. If you every saw my review build I just had 1 pump running everything.
> 
> That alpha cool is a great pump to and should be all you need.
> 
> Gpu blocks are very low restriction so you should be good.
> 
> Keep it simple.


Thanks for the reply then i will skip the second pump saving money is always good


----------



## ADragg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> No....no way for air to escape.
> 
> As for replacement top .....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Make sure ya get the extenders for any connections to top side..... EK had a 17mm recessed hole..... Bitspower fitting knurls are 18mm
> 
> The 2 holes on flat vertical surface won't need em but any exterior fittings on the top round horizontal surface will. Interior aquatube has no knurl.
> 
> G1/4 Fitting Extender - Bitspower G 1/4" Thread Fitting Extender - Matte Black (BP-MBWP-C40) - ex-tub-700$2.99
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/10371/ex-tub-618/Bitspower_G_14_Thread_Fitting_Extender_-_Matte_Black_BP-MBWP-C40.html?tl=c101s1354b145#options
> Ok ya saw the parts for the fixed part .... parts list for rest is
> 
> -Quick-Disconnect for Drain - Bitspower Matte Black Quick-Disconnected Female w/ G1/4 Thread (BP-MBQDFG14) - ex-tub-1635$23.50http://www.frozencpu.com/products/17965/ex-tub-1635/Bitspower_Matte_Black_Quick-Disconnected_Female_w_G14_Thread_BP-MBQDFG14.html
> 
> -F x F Extender - Bitspower G1/4 Female to Female Extender - 30mm - Matte Black (BP-MBWP-C74) - ex-tub-953 - $7.99
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/13555/ex-tub-953/Bitspower_G14_Female_to_Female_Extender_-_30mm_-_Matte_Black_BP-MBWP-C74.html?tl=c101s1354b145&id=4NiLmkLB&mv_pc=2463
> 
> -G1/4" x Compression Connector (Male)-Bitspower G1/4 Thread 3/8" ID x 1/2" OD Rotary Compression Fitting - Matte Black (BP-MBRCPF-CC2) - ex-tub-700$13.99http://www.frozencpu.com/products/11107/ex-tub-700/Bitspower_G14_Thread_38_ID_x_12_OD_Rotary_Compression_Fitting_-_Matte_Black_BP-MBRCPF-CC2.html?tl=c409s1032b145
> 
> - Tubing-Tygon 2475 Ultra Chemical Resistant Plasticizer Free Tubing - 3/8" ID (1/2" OD) - Clear (ACG00027) - ex-tub-663$2.75
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/10691/ex-tub-663/Tygon_2475_Ultra_Chemical_Resistant_Plasticizer_Free_Tubing_-_38_ID_12_OD_-_Clear_ACG00027.html
> Nope ... measured it w/ a caliper....fits purrfect....there are shorter extensions if ya worried .... 10mm - 50mm
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/cat/l3/g/c101/s1354/list/p1/b145/Bitspower_International_Co_Ltd-Fittings-Accessories-Fitting_Extenders-Page1.html?id=4NiLmkLB&mv_pc=2303
> The determining factor is GFX card length .... if card is less than 10.6, I'd say you good.
> What's in the loop ? Don't See any rads ?
> 
> What I did was take out lower 3.5" HD cage and put pump there...... Pump => Lower rad (top inside port) => parallel feed GPU loop => Top Rad (Bot Outsider port) => CPU Top Port => MoBo Bottom Port => Reservor => Pump


Man, that's an expensive drain port setup!







All in all, that's probably $50-75+

Slick setup, though.

Still not sure if I'll go with the EK res and the optional top with extra ports, or if I'll just get a Bitspower for about half the price and have all the ports I need without needing to purchase the res, extra top, fitting extenders, aqua tube, etc (as I would need to do with the EK res). Thinking I will just go with the Bitspower in full clear (no black caps).

Also, I'm not sure if your pump would have mounted to the included mount anyway, but if the reason you didn't use the included pump mount was because of the placement and/or the low height, I figured out another way/place to mount the included pump bracket. When you remove the bottom drive cage (as I know you did since you wanted your pump down in that area just like I do), it slides off a bracket that's mounted below it at the bottom of the case. Then you'd normally unscrew it and leave it aside with the drive cage. However, it has some holes in it and it turns out the pump bracket (which is removable) can be screwed onto the lower drive cage bracket. I'm not sure if this was an intended design or a coincidence that the holes are the exact correct spacing, but you can securely mount the pump bracket there. There are actually several holes along it, so you can position the bracket (and therefore the pump) in several places (meaning from side to side. Either closer to the windowed side of the case or more towards the opposite side). This puts the pump in the perfect spot down there (especially if you have a tube res on the res bracket and a lower radiator as your first component after the pump) and also brings the pump an inch or so higher off the floor of the case.


----------



## Hooy

Has anyone figured out a way to mount a Photon w/o drilling yet?

And can anyone tell me an explicit reason to NOT get a drive bay res? I can't fit a tube without drilling into the case. Buying tools and ruining my case doesn't seem worth it simply because I don't trust myself. I'd still be running a separate pump to avoid the noise issue and to have cleaner runs


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hooy*
> 
> Has anyone figured out a way to mount a Photon w/o drilling yet?
> 
> And can anyone tell me an explicit reason to NOT get a drive bay res? I can't fit a tube without drilling into the case. Buying tools and ruining my case doesn't seem worth it simply because I don't trust myself. I'd still be running a separate pump to avoid the noise issue and to have cleaner runs


When you brought it up before Jesse (from themodzoo) already replied that he's used 3M 4010 double sided tape to mount a photon in a case before.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jassilamba*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Hooy*
> 
> How do you guys feel about velcro/double sided tape mounting a Photon 170 or 270 to the right of the motherboard grommets with the res bracket removed? I would really like a Photon but it can't be mounted anywhere but there unless I wanted to sacrifice a cleaner tube run and my EVGA SLI bridge... I'm also not keen on drilling holes in the case or chopping up the res bracket.
> 
> 
> 
> Use the tape of the gods - http://mnpctech.com/case-mods-gaming-pc-liquid-modding-custom-computer-mnpctech-overclock-cooling-fan-grills/3m-4010-tape.html
> 
> *I have a photon 240 installed in a Dell XPS case, and those cases are heavier than anything (all solid thick aluminum construction). I can lift the whole case by just grabbing the reservoir.*
Click to expand...

That said, I'm pretty sure you could just as well use some of the industrial-strength velcro too ...

http://www.lowes.com/ProductDisplay?partNumber=20018-388-90197

^ That stuff is not you're everyday run-o-the-mill velcro. I've seen it used to mount monitors/TVs to the wall. Put a decent-sized piece on the back and it will hold a res no problem.

Whichever you use, just make sure you clean off both mounting surfaces with a bit of rubbing alcohol to make sure they are free from oils to give you maximum adhesion and you should be fine.


----------



## chrisnyc75

I'm pretty sure that "industrial strength" adhesive or velcro is just as permanent as just drilling 4 small holes, though. Why not go ahead and mount it the most secure way? If you ever decide to change reservoirs, there's either the frontplate to completely cover it up, or you can insert small black screws through the holes for a "finished" look (even though the screws serve only an aesthetic purpose). That's what I did with the 9 pre-drilled holes I wasn't using.

p.s. Jack, I was right --- my gtx 770 in slot 5 w/ xspc block did NOT fit with the reservoir mount installed. So I took a dremel to it (actually, I took a very thick drill bit to it rather than spend another $80 on yet another single-use tool. Finished it off with some tightly wrapped and precisely cut electrical tape (to soften the edge) and it's good as new, since you can't see that edge anyway).


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chrisnyc75*
> 
> I'm pretty sure that "industrial strength" adhesive or velcro is just as permanent as just drilling 4 small holes, though. Why not go ahead and mount it the most secure way? [...]


I would strongly agree with this, but Hooy did mention that he'd have to buy the tools and didn't comfortable drilling holes and risk 'ruining' the case. In that case it probably isn't worth the added expense of buying the tools if you don't already have access to them, and especially not if you wouldn't feel comfortable using them. A couple misplaced holes would indeed be a problem best avoided.

The res bracket does come off easy enough though. so perhaps taking the bracket and photon mounting plate over to someone else who does have tools and knows what they are doing with them might be an option. If not, then I don't see why using the double-sided tape or velcro wouldn't be a decent alternative.

Truth-be-told, I'd already considered, and still haven't totally ruled out, using that industrial-strength velcro to mount my Photon 270 res / D5 pump combo, not because I'm leery or unprepared to drill a few holes, but because I do feel comfortable that it would hold, and because I suspect it would add some level of decoupling from pump vibrations to the case, and might actually be the quieter/better option than drilling & screwing it in place.

On another note, now that I have my long-awaited RIVBE motherboard and my Lampton CW611 fan controller finally arrived after taking just shy of three weeks to get here thanks to a train derailment acc'd to UPS tracking (thankfully it seems to have arrived undamaged), I'm almost there with everything I need to start putting this thing together. All I'm lacking is the CPU & Ram. I just placed my order for the 4930k, and I'm just going to borrow 8GB of memory from another computer temporarily so I can go ahead and get it going while I still save a few more weeks for a 64GB quad channel set of 2400 ram.

It's been a loong time gathering everything piece-by-piece, week-by-week. My OWMBO doesn't let me break out a credit card for my expensive hobbies, nor is she keen to let me spend my base pay on any of it either unless I can convince her otherwise, but we do have a long-standing agreement that unless we're facing some out of the ordinary expenses I can pretty much do whatever I want with my overtime / bonus pay, so I generally put in 12 hrs over every week that they'll let me, and these last few months I've been putting in a little more than that here and there. I'll be sooo glad to finally get this thing going so I can take a bit of a break.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## Hereisphilly

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shiv15*
> 
> Has anyone mounted a d5 on the provided bracket for a pump on the backside of the case? I am looking to use the EK res, mounted to the back to the chassis and going straight down through the provided opening. I would prefer to not use any king of angled fitting to inlet into the d5 and I want the outlet side to be pointed to the front of the case.


If you are planning on doing what I think you are wanting to do, then yes, it works out almost perfect. You have to mount your res directly to the main motherboard backplane (i.e. not on the res bracket). The the tubing passes directly through the circular grommet to the D5 pump mount below


----------



## shiv15

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hereisphilly*
> 
> If you are planning on doing what I think you are wanting to do, then yes, it works out almost perfect. You have to mount your res directly to the main motherboard backplane (i.e. not on the res bracket). The the tubing passes directly through the circular grommet to the D5 pump mount below


Is the inlet on the top like that? I thought it was on the other side, where what looks to be your outlet side. I may just end up using my mcp355 in that same location, as the inlet/outlet mount where I need them right now. Which brand pump are you using?

But yes you had the right idea which I was trying to convey.

My thoughts are to go straight from the pump over to a 240 mounted on the side bracket, with the ports are the bottom into a 90* fitting. It's a tight fit, but I think I can work something out.


----------



## bond32

My xspc D5 is mounted on the bracket. I bought the XSPC pump top in hopes it would help keep it quiet, but honestly I am a bit disappointed. The pump is the loudest thing in my case right now. The circular grommet I dont use actually. The outlet (top) of mine goes to the top 360 radiator which I wish I had redone, I can't use the side 140mm fans now because the tubing is in the way. Intake for the pump is a swiftech micro res.


----------



## chrisnyc75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> It's been a loong time gathering everything piece-by-piece, week-by-week. ... I'll be sooo glad to finally get this thing going so I can take a bit of a break.


Ditto. My Enthoo build has been underway (in one form or another) since August, and PHYSICALLY in-progress for at least the last 3 weeks....and it's still not quite complete (figured out I was 2 angled adapters short to complete my loop, so those 2 are being express shipped to me as we speak).

Hopefully (fingers crossed!) I should get my loop completely finished, filled, and up and running this weekend (since I work on Friday).

At least no one can fault us for jumping into this without thinking it through, huh? lol


----------



## Hereisphilly

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shiv15*
> 
> Is the inlet on the top like that? I thought it was on the other side, where what looks to be your outlet side. I may just end up using my mcp355 in that same location, as the inlet/outlet mount where I need them right now. Which brand pump are you using?
> 
> But yes you had the right idea which I was trying to convey.
> 
> My thoughts are to go straight from the pump over to a 240 mounted on the side bracket, with the ports are the bottom into a 90* fitting. It's a tight fit, but I think I can work something out.


If you have the standard pump top then yeah you are limited to the inlet being on the front and the outlet going up.
I have the alphacool variant that came with a custom acetal top, and is way more flexible as there is an inlet and outlet on both the front and top.
Its this one http://www.watercoolinguk.co.uk/p/Alphacool-VPP655-G14-IG-complete-with-D5-HF-Top_20284.html

Yeah there isn't a whole lot of room on the back if you want a side mounted rad. Have you considered putting one in the front? I dont think you are limited for thickness on a 240 without the cages
You can also get away with an 240 XT45 and still have the cages in place, you just have to do some drilling for the tubes to get to the rad.
Check my build log to see how i did it if you want some ideas
http://themodzoo.com/forum/index.php?/topic/1071-obelisk-1st-wc-build-phanteks-enthoo-primo/


----------



## Hereisphilly

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> My xspc D5 is mounted on the bracket. I bought the XSPC pump top in hopes it would help keep it quiet, but honestly I am a bit disappointed. The pump is the loudest thing in my case right now. The circular grommet I dont use actually. The outlet (top) of mine goes to the top 360 radiator which I wish I had redone, I can't use the side 140mm fans now because the tubing is in the way. Intake for the pump is a swiftech micro res.


Same, mine is by far the loudest, and its actually pretty quiet, it just stands out now that there is no fan noise or anything.

Wondering if i should take the pump off the bracket and try a shoggy sandwich?
Or would i be wasting my time as pumps are just noisy like that.
If i had to describe the noise it would be like a high-ish pitched hum, completely constant but still there

And yes my loop is fully bled, I've triple checked that!


----------



## bond32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hereisphilly*
> 
> Same, mine is by far the loudest, and its actually pretty quiet, it just stands out now that there is no fan noise or anything.
> 
> Wondering if i should take the pump off the bracket and try a shoggy sandwich?
> Or would i be wasting my time as pumps are just noisy like that.
> If i had to describe the noise it would be like a high-ish pitched hum, completely constant but still there
> 
> And yes my loop is fully bled, I've triple checked that!


Mine is the same way. I imagine the pump bracket is the best as the noise comes from the vibrations. Mine is still not loud by any means, I just happen to have a very quiet room right now so I can hear the pitches clearly from the pump.


----------



## DutchSteph

Finally decided to order mine! Should be here in a few days! Looking forward to switch my build from my stryker into the primo!


----------



## Hereisphilly

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> Mine is the same way. I imagine the pump bracket is the best as the noise comes from the vibrations. Mine is still not loud by any means, I just happen to have a very quiet room right now so I can hear the pitches clearly from the pump.


So if the main culprit of the noise is the vibrations, do you think changing to a shoggy sandwich would help?
Anyone had any experience with them?


----------



## bond32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hereisphilly*
> 
> So if the main culprit of the noise is the vibrations, do you think changing to a shoggy sandwich would help?
> Anyone had any experience with them?


I don't know what a shoggy sandwich is lol. But there is a hefty amount of rubber for absorption on the pump bracket. When I ran with the bay res it was almost unbearable unless the pump was slowed to lowest setting. With the pump bracket I dropped it about half way and it's not as noticeable.


----------



## Hereisphilly

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> I don't know what a shoggy sandwich is lol. But there is a hefty amount of rubber for absorption on the pump bracket. When I ran with the bay res it was almost unbearable unless the pump was slowed to lowest setting. With the pump bracket I dropped it about half way and it's not as noticeable.


Ah hehe, its one of these, apparently they're really good at killing the vibration in pumps
http://www.watercoolinguk.co.uk/p/Aquacomputer-Shoggy-Sandwich-Anti-Vibration-Pump-Pad-Version-20_4154.html

Cool, I might not go for it then, if the included pump bracket is pretty good
Its my 1st wc build, so i dont really have a point of reference for how quiet things should be. I just wanted to avoid buying it and then there wasn't really any noticeable difference


----------



## jassilamba

The D5 is supposed to the quietest pump of the bunch. I'm gonna guess that you guys have no bubbles in your loop. Also you dont have to run your pump at a setting of 5. Try lower settings and see if that helps.

The shoggy sandwich will help as well.


----------



## bond32

Yeah I dropped the speed down to setting 2 which should still be enough to push flow. Its much quieter now but not as quiet as I hoped.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Mine d5 (PWM version) with ek mounting rubber feet is virtually silent guys. Even at 4700 rpm. So perhaps it is a problem of decoupling, although the PWM version is recognized as quieter that the other versions.

http://martinsliquidlab.org/2012/12/25/swiftech-mcp-655-pwm-drive-pump-review/


----------



## Sunreeper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jassilamba*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> These seemed to have gotten lost in the original loooong post ..... so
> 
> Questions:
> 
> 1. Anyone know the watt rating of a molex cable to PSU ? Wanted to combine the two power leads (18 watts each = 36 total) from the 35x2 onto a single cable.
> 
> 2. Anyone have any idea if the 35x2 can safely run with just one pump plugged in ? It is touted as redundant if one pump fails but it seems like a good way to fill a loop since I won't be able to get in and adjust fan profile in BIOS till after it's running
> 
> 3. Suggested location in Ehthoo for spare Bitspower temp sensor .... wanna use for inside case temperature measurement.
> 
> 4. Anyone know of an ambient air temperature sensor that, ideally, could be mounted in room and wirelessly send a signal to the Raven Six Eyes inside the box ? original idea was to mount another Bitspower sensor thru a hole in the case grille but with 10 fans blowing in, I cab't imagine ahole anywhere that isn't blastic hot air out.
> 
> 
> 
> 1. No idea
> 
> 2. You should be fine, no issues there.
> 
> 3. Does not matter where you put it, since you have almost everything under water. If you really wanted to, I would put something around the south bridge.
> 
> 4. I have a wall clock that displays the ambient temp lol.
> 
> ______________________________________
> 
> I will just leave this here, and walk away.
Click to expand...

I NEED THIS CASE!!!


----------



## shiv15

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hereisphilly*
> 
> If you have the standard pump top then yeah you are limited to the inlet being on the front and the outlet going up.
> I have the alphacool variant that came with a custom acetal top, and is way more flexible as there is an inlet and outlet on both the front and top.
> Its this one http://www.watercoolinguk.co.uk/p/Alphacool-VPP655-G14-IG-complete-with-D5-HF-Top_20284.html
> 
> Yeah there isn't a whole lot of room on the back if you want a side mounted rad. Have you considered putting one in the front? I dont think you are limited for thickness on a 240 without the cages
> You can also get away with an 240 XT45 and still have the cages in place, you just have to do some drilling for the tubes to get to the rad.
> Check my build log to see how i did it if you want some ideas
> http://themodzoo.com/forum/index.php?/topic/1071-obelisk-1st-wc-build-phanteks-enthoo-primo/


Thanks, I will look into that alphacool top/pump.

I can't fit one up front, as I have the monsta 480 going in the bottom. I am really adding the 240 just because I can. It's a left over radiator, and it can't hurt. I only have SSDs in my system, so the hdd bays are not needed.

There should be enough room, albeit very close to run tubing to the rad from the pump.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ADragg*
> 
> Man, that's an expensive drain port setup!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All in all, that's probably $50-75+


$96.50 for both ends ..... works nice tho...can even set it up to flush system.

I had the Bits in my original build..... saw some "I have a Bits and it's leaking and no one retuirns my calls / e-mails" posts .... switched to the EK ...also figured the white would be anice chnage to the black everything else and now that it's in, glad I did.
Quote:


> Also, I'm not sure if your pump would have mounted to the included mount anyway, but if the reason you didn't use the included pump mount was because of the placement and/or the low height, I figured out another way/place to mount the included pump bracket. When you remove the bottom drive cage (as I know you did since you wanted your pump down in that area just like I do), it slides off a bracket that's mounted below it at the bottom of the case. Then you'd normally unscrew it and leave it aside with the drive cage. However, it has some holes in it and it turns out the pump bracket (which is removable) can be screwed onto the lower drive cage bracket. I'm not sure if this was an intended design or a coincidence that the holes are the exact correct spacing, but you can securely mount the pump bracket there. There are actually several holes along it, so you can position the bracket (and therefore the pump) in several places (meaning from side to side. Either closer to the windowed side of the case or more towards the opposite side). This puts the pump in the perfect spot down there (especially if you have a tube res on the res bracket and a lower radiator as your first component after the pump) and also brings the pump an inch or so higher off the floor of the case.


I did mount on the pump mount .... on two of them actually. And that's exactly what I did..... that is an "designed" alternate location for the pump mount and is shown in the Enthoo videos and in the manual.

See page 29.... it shows the layout as you have described above and how to mount it on the HD stand as you have described. The method of illustration is a bit poor as instead of showing a tru "plan view " looking down, they've tipped up the HD stand to look like it's in a vertical position...... which makes it confusing.

But, yes that is exactly what I have done..... but my pump is twice the size of the pump bracket ... only half of it fits on the bracket...... But the HD mount where the sliders are (again see page 29 of manual) will fit two pump brackets. I received a donation of a 2nd pump bracket from a dashing and generous young man who frequents this thread ...







.... and mounted two of them together on the HD bay sliders.

But again, this pump is huge and takes up almost the full mounting area of TWO pump brackets.....It's 5" long, 3" wide and 4" high


----------



## Roxycon

From jack's questions;

I have a molex with three males going from my ax1200w wich is first powering my two d5pwm's and then a splitter (1 female to 4 males) wich is powering two ssd's, molex to sata-power, one is powering a 5mm led on the bay res and the last one is coupled up to my front io wich then goes to a corsair link led module with 3 strips on a single lane. Have another molex out from my psu but its only powering three corsair link fan modules and the phanteks hub..

In my cosmos i runned one ssd, two dcp2,2 pumps, two ccfl converters, three fan modules, a led module, the front io and a nzxt led strip of a single lead from my psu







havent ever seen restriction on molexes or the ax1200w

And dont qoute me but isnt the molexes (wich comes from the psu) designed to draw the needed power? I think i read that somwhere









Edit:
Found a more mathematical answer, molex are typically 11 amperes per pin and it would give 55 watts on the 5v+ lead and 132 watts on the 12v+ lead, but this could be different to your psu as it could have another ampere number and other gauge size on the cables


----------



## ADragg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> When you brought it up before Jesse (from themodzoo) already replied that he's used 3M 4010 double sided tape to mount a photon in a case before.
> That said, I'm pretty sure you could just as well use some of the industrial-strength velcro too ...
> 
> http://www.lowes.com/ProductDisplay?partNumber=20018-388-90197
> 
> ^ That stuff is not you're everyday run-o-the-mill velcro. I've seen it used to mount monitors/TVs to the wall. Put a decent-sized piece on the back and it will hold a res no problem.
> 
> Whichever you use, just make sure you clean off both mounting surfaces with a bit of rubbing alcohol to make sure they are free from oils to give you maximum adhesion and you should be fine.


Seriously. If it has one of those mounts (on the res) that would allow you to put a decent strip of velcro down the back, I guarantee velcro would hold perfectly strong. Even if you just has a couple of 1"x2" strips it would be enough. You just kind of twist the res side to side a little bit to let the velcro work it's way in a little bit and you'll feel it get very tight. Plenty strong to hold the res full of fluid and the tubes putting pressure on the res as well.

Myself and many other guitarists trust it to hold 20+ lbs worth of guitar pedals on a pedalboard. I have over a $1000 worth of pedals on my board that I wouldn't want falling off. They're difficult to get off even when you want to. You have to be careful because the adhesive and velcro itself is so strong that it will actually rip the paint right off the bottom of the pedal. Stuff is extremely strong. I'd trust it to hold my res if I needed to.

Oh, and as for cleaning the oils off first, when I mount pedals to my pedalboard I actually try to rub a little oil from my fingers on the bottom of the pedal to make getting velcro off easier, and it STILL rips the paint off the bottom of the pedals half the time







That stuff is seriously strong.


----------



## ADragg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> $96.50 for both ends ..... works nice tho...can even set it up to flush system.
> 
> I had the Bits in my original build..... saw some "I have a Bits and it's leaking and no one retuirns my calls / e-mails" posts .... switched to the EK ...also figured the white would be anice chnage to the black everything else and now that it's in, glad I did.
> I did mount on the pump mount .... on two of them actually. And that's exactly what I did..... that is an "designed" alternate location for the pump mount and is shown in the Enthoo videos and in the manual.
> 
> See page 29.... it shows the layout as you have described above and how to mount it on the HD stand as you have described. The method of illustration is a bit poor as instead of showing a tru "plan view " looking down, they've tipped up the HD stand to look like it's in a vertical position...... which makes it confusing.
> 
> But, yes that is exactly what I have done..... but my pump is twice the size of the pump bracket ... only half of it fits on the bracket...... But the HD mount where the sliders are (again see page 29 of manual) will fit two pump brackets. I received a donation of a 2nd pump bracket from a dashing and generous young man who frequents this thread ...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .... and mounted two of them together on the HD bay sliders.
> 
> But again, this pump is huge and takes up almost the full mounting area of TWO pump brackets.....It's 5" long, 3" wide and 4" high


Agh. I was afraid someone would say something about the Bitspower res not being so great. We'll see. But especially since I may have to go with the more expensive EK setup and this WC build is getting well over $800, I think I'll just start a right angle fitting for drainage where you did, but instead of all of the fittings like you have, I can just leave a piece of tubing with a plug in the end hooked up to the underside of the bottom rad. Just long enough to hang out the side of the case. I can curl it down there by the pump below the drive bays where it won't be seen. Then pull it out of the side of the case and pop the plug out and I have a makeshift drain. Not nearly as nice as your setup but it should work. At least until the first time I drain the loop and maybe then I'll be ready to add the hard components like you did for something more permanent.

EDIT: So looking at the optional EK res top, it looks like even if I came in through the side mount from the CPU block, I can still use the Aqua Tube, right? I was thinking the side inputs didn't route to the a place where I could thread in the Aqua Tube, but it looks like they tie into the same path as two of the top inputs. So at least I can come into side of top and not have to use a 90* fitting at the top of the res. Makes the idea of that setup a little cleaner.


----------



## borax

Hi guys got a couple of questions. Firstly I've ordered an alphacool St 30 rad 480 mm for the top of my case will be running it in push pull. Now for the bottom I've gone for a st60 360mm again will be push pull. To start with I will only be cooling my cpu (4770k) on a g1 sniper 5 mobo. I'm using primochill rigid acrylic tubing. Now I want to be able to utilise both rads before adding the 2 780gtx which I should be getting on my next pay day. I've also got a 240mm primochill low profile base res along with a laing d5 vario 1200lph pump with an ek top. Apart from this I shall be using primochill ghost compression fittings. Do I need to order any other fittings? And do I need to include a drain or fillport? (First time doing a custom loop). Additionally how can I hook it all up in a single loop but giving me the ease of eventually installing the two 780gtx?

Sorry for the long post.

Thanks guys.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hooy*
> 
> And can anyone tell me an explicit reason to NOT get a drive bay res? I can't fit a tube without drilling into the case. Buying tools and ruining my case doesn't seem worth it simply because I don't trust myself. I'd still be running a separate pump to avoid the noise issue and to have cleaner runs


I thought you just couldn't fit a Photon ? There are other reservoirs that aren't as difficult top place......60mm and even 50mm

I put this on the res bracket w/o even using the nuts ......



That's the EK-RES 3 -250 w/ optional multi-port top .... BTW.... to those also doing the EK..... EK screws ya ..... the G/14 thread stops just short of the inside ... you gotta but their "special" aquatube 12/16 x 140mm ....another wait for shipping

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_1165_1162&products_id=36312

Sure am missing the nano coating on the aqualis ..... bubbles just won't let go a res walls.

Well I'm into 3 hours into a 12 hour leak test .... then will turn on and see if everything still works









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ADragg*
> 
> Agh. I was afraid someone would say something about the Bitspower res not being so great. We'll see. But especially since I may have to go with the more expensive EK setup and this WC build is getting well over $800, I think I'll just start a right angle fitting for drainage where you did, but instead of all of the fittings like you have, I can just leave a piece of tubing with a plug in the end hooked up to the underside of the bottom rad. Just long enough to hang out the side of the case. I can curl it down there by the pump below the drive bays where it won't be seen. Then pull it out of the side of the case and pop the plug out and I have a makeshift drain. Not nearly as nice as your setup but it should work. At least until the first time I drain the loop and maybe then I'll be ready to add the hard components like you did for something more permanent.
> 
> EDIT: So looking at the optional EK res top, it looks like even if I came in through the side mount from the CPU block, I can still use the Aqua Tube, right? I was thinking the side inputs didn't route to the a place where I could thread in the Aqua Tube, but it looks like they tie into the same path as two of the top inputs. So at least I can come into side of top and not have to use a 90* fitting at the top of the res. Makes the idea of that setup a little cleaner.


a 90 and a plug works too









Well EK screws ya (see above) .... they have the EK aquatube thru amazon tho.

http://www.amazon.com/EK-Reservoir-Multiport-Replacement-Top/dp/B00BNYQQ14/ref=sr_1_sc_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1385434203&sr=1-1-spell&keywords=EK+resrvoir+port+top

http://www.amazon.com/EK-RES-X3-Reservoir-Replacement-Internal/dp/B00AXW063G

The way the threading works .... if the plat side faces front of case on the botton, it will face the back side on the top..... Note....5 holes , 3 plugs ... you shud have spare rad plug tho from ya drain port. Remember ya also need the EK extender fittings if ya use the top ports .... I bought 2 w/ the Multi port top..... Have return thru the one furthest from the flat side. ..... temporarily put a valve in the other one to exhaust air..... MoBo block drains into res on each shutoff so hadd to do a little dance with a 12" fill tube with valve on top..... fill it with water.... shut the valve above water line..... tilt case back to make res high point ..... crack valve to on res to let air out till the rube on rad drained ..... rinse and repeat 3 times.

Loop took 1.8 liters ..... hadda order 2nd bottle of mahems.

Started system with just one of the pups, then added 2nd......bubbles gone except for few stuck to wall in res


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> I thought you just couldn't fit a Photon ? [...]


Unless your card(s) is/are too long for it a Photon fits just fine in the Enthoo Primo except it's mounting holes don't line up with the pre-installed pattern on the res bracket or back of the case, so the only real issue is that you'd need to drill a few holes (or, as discussed above, use something like double-sided tape or velcro to mount it) which is the same thing 99% of everyone else who buys any tube reservoir would have to do to mount it in almost every other case out there which don't come with pre-drilled reservoir mounting holes or even much thought if at all put into res placement.

I suspect that the majority of people who have custom water loops installed in their cases will have had to drill a hole or two or four or ..., or have had to make an even more extensive mods somewhere to the case to get everything to work right. It kind of goes with the territory. The Enthoo Primo is one of the few cases I can think of where you might be able to pull off a decent custom water loop with a tube res without needing to break out a drill or a dremel if you were to stick only to parts that would fit easily, but imho that would steal half the fun/thrill of it. Gotta luv that feeling in the seconds leading up to that first cut or hole being made to a brand new case you haven't even put to use yet. Right?


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ADragg*
> 
> Seriously. If it has one of those mounts (on the res) that would allow you to put a decent strip of velcro down the back, I guarantee velcro would hold perfectly strong. Even if you just has a couple of 1"x2" strips it would be enough. You just kind of twist the res side to side a little bit to let the velcro work it's way in a little bit and you'll feel it get very tight. Plenty strong to hold the res full of fluid and the tubes putting pressure on the res as well.
> 
> Myself and many other guitarists trust it to hold 20+ lbs worth of guitar pedals on a pedalboard. I have over a $1000 worth of pedals on my board that I wouldn't want falling off. They're difficult to get off even when you want to. You have to be careful because the adhesive and velcro itself is so strong that it will actually rip the paint right off the bottom of the pedal. Stuff is extremely strong. I'd trust it to hold my res if I needed to.
> 
> Oh, and as for cleaning the oils off first, when I mount pedals to my pedalboard I actually try to rub a little oil from my fingers on the bottom of the pedal to make getting velcro off easier, and it STILL rips the paint off the bottom of the pedals half the time
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That stuff is seriously strong.


OK you convinced me. I'm going to go ahead and try to mount my res w/ the industrial strength Velcro and see how it goes.

The aluminum mounting plate on the back of the Photon 270 / D5 combo I have is 48mm (1.9") wide & 300mm (11.75") long and seems ideal for using something like the "tape of the gods" or Velcro.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







An as I wrote above, I like the idea of the Velcro because it should add some level of decoupling between the pump and the case which should help it run quieter (although I've yet to use it to know if noise would be any issue with it at all in any case - but adding a level of decoupling sure couldn't hurt), plus it should let me more comfortably squeeze it in what will be a VERY tight fit between my top and bottom rads, so tight that drilling screw holes in the right locations was going to be critical.

I'll only have exactly 22mm total space combined top & bottom between the fans on the rads, so I'm looking at placing it with a ~5mm space at the bottom so that will leave me just ~17mm up top for me to be able to access the fill port. To be able to do that I've ordered a set of ridiculously slim Japanese-made Anex offset screwdrivers that only need 10mm of space. I had planned to use a ratcheting offset screwdriver I already have but realized it needs at least 21mm of space to work with and was unable to find anything else in the US that would fit in any tighter of a spot so had to look to importing a set of these ...



I'm using a top-facing port on my top rad as a fillport for my loop, so I'm thinking all I'll really need to do for the most part is be able to crack open/close the fillport on top of the res to let the water fill up into it and cap it off when it gets full and then continue filling up the rest of the loop, and that should let me fill almost my entire loop in one go without having to go the route of filling just the res, cycle the pump, & repeat over and over, but even if that works as planned the res will inevitably collect some air in the top I also have a syringe with a tube and also a squeeze-type fill bottle with a tube on it, either of which should let me top off the res in that tight of a space if/when necessary.

That's the plan on paper so far anyway. I'll know in a week or two how well it's actually going to work in practice.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Ok....I flushed my rads for an hour each with about 5 gpm....flushed everything else except for the pump....







Seems Swiftech pump left me some micro presents ... little black plastic thingies on WB.......gonna let it run a few days .... trying to get water temp up to some temp rise...no luck hottest I can get it is 31.2 C so far running Furmark w/ 32% OC on 780s. That was randon 1st attempt....not really doing OC yet....just making sure no more surprise crud in loop.

ST45-420 = 31.2 in / 30.4 out = Delta 0.8
UT60-280 = 30.4 in / 30.1 out = Delta 0.3 ***

Res => Pump => Parallel loop thru GFX => ST45 => CPU => MoBo => Res

Max GFX temp under Furmark = 38C (32% OC)
CPU Cores Max Temp under OCCT = 48 to 52 (stock)

*** EDIT .... DUH ! fans on UTV60 weren't plugged in









Now topping out at 35 C on GFX cards under Furmark (32% OC on clock / 25% on memory)
CPU at 44-46C (still stock = 3.9 Ghz)


----------



## ADragg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> I thought you just couldn't fit a Photon ? There are other reservoirs that aren't as difficult top place......60mm and even 50mm
> 
> I put this on the res bracket w/o even using the nuts ......
> 
> 
> 
> That's the EK-RES 3 -250 w/ optional multi-port top .... BTW.... to those also doing the EK..... EK screws ya ..... the G/14 thread stops just short of the inside ... you gotta but their "special" aquatube 12/16 x 140mm ....another wait for shipping
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_1165_1162&products_id=36312
> 
> Sure am missing the nano coating on the aqualis ..... bubbles just won't let go a res walls.
> 
> Well I'm into 3 hours into a 12 hour leak test .... then will turn on and see if everything still works
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> a 90 and a plug works too
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well EK screws ya (see above) .... they have the EK aquatube thru amazon tho.
> 
> http://www.amazon.com/EK-Reservoir-Multiport-Replacement-Top/dp/B00BNYQQ14/ref=sr_1_sc_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1385434203&sr=1-1-spell&keywords=EK+resrvoir+port+top
> 
> http://www.amazon.com/EK-RES-X3-Reservoir-Replacement-Internal/dp/B00AXW063G
> 
> The way the threading works .... if the plat side faces front of case on the botton, it will face the back side on the top..... Note....5 holes , 3 plugs ... you shud have spare rad plug tho from ya drain port. Remember ya also need the EK extender fittings if ya use the top ports .... I bought 2 w/ the Multi port top..... Have return thru the one furthest from the flat side. ..... temporarily put a valve in the other one to exhaust air..... MoBo block drains into res on each shutoff so hadd to do a little dance with a 12" fill tube with valve on top..... fill it with water.... shut the valve above water line..... tilt case back to make res high point ..... crack valve to on res to let air out till the rube on rad drained ..... rinse and repeat 3 times.
> 
> Loop took 1.8 liters ..... hadda order 2nd bottle of mahems.
> 
> Started system with just one of the pups, then added 2nd......bubbles gone except for few stuck to wall in res


Thanks, man.

Good to know that I need to get the EK down tube instead of the Bits Aqua Tube. That's ridiculous, though. I can't believe they would actually change the thread type on the inside. What's the point in that (other than to make you buy a different tube with a different thread type that they actually happen to make)? So the hole starts out G1/4 on the outside where you attach fittings and then changes to 12/16 at the last second?

By the way, since our builds are very similar aside from SLI and hard tubing, and I'm doing a lot of the same things as you, is there anything in particular that didn't work now that you've put it to practice? Is the method of keeping the 420 rad pushed a little forward and attaching those extenders + plugs in the top of the rad as fill/bleed ports working out, for example? And speaking of that, is having the second one as a bleed port necessary? I'm thinking since I'm going with the multi port EK top, I should get plenty of air exhaust from that. Although that's not a direct bleed for the top rad and if there's much air in the rad it's only going to bleed off once it gets to the res... after it has traveled through the system in the form of a big air bubble. Not sure that would really happen, though.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ADragg*
> 
> Thanks, man.
> 
> Good to know that I need to get the EK down tube instead of the Bits Aqua Tube. That's ridiculous, though. I can't believe they would actually change the thread type on the inside. What's the point in that (other than to make you buy a different tube with a different thread type that they actually happen to make)? So the hole starts out G1/4 on the outside where you attach fittings and then changes to 12/16 at the last second?.


Well last mm







And they don't happen to make it ..... they obviously set it up that way .... OTOH, they argue that it's actually for use as a suction tube, .... the Bits tapers down smaller so I guess the argument could be made that less head loss with thers.
Quote:


> By the way, since our builds are very similar aside from SLI and hard tubing, and I'm doing a lot of the same things as you, is there anything in particular that didn't work now that you've put it to practice? Is the method of keeping the 420 rad pushed a little forward and attaching those extenders + plugs in the top of the rad as fill/bleed ports working out, for example? And speaking of that, is having the second one as a bleed port necessary? I'm thinking since I'm going with the multi port EK top, I should get plenty of air exhaust from that. Although that's not a direct bleed for the top rad and if there's much air in the rad it's only going to bleed off once it gets to the res... after it has traveled through the system in the form of a big air bubble. Not sure that would really happen, though


The fill ports on top rad worked out great ..... allowed me to get air outta top of rez ..... w/o the fill tube,, every time ya shut the machine off, water trained outta MoBo block and half of CPU Block. But filling the vertical tube with water and closing the valve above it, I was able to bleed air outta the top of res using a 2nd valve as a bleeder mounting on top of rez....shud see in last pic.

Res is about 4" lower than the rad .... and the tube gives me another 12" ..... that static pressure pushes water in and air out.

Fill top tube
Close vale above it
Turn on pump
Run a minute
Tilt to make res high point
Turn off pump
Open top valve
Crack bleeder valve
Watch level drop to just above rad
Rinse and repeat

I did make one mistake..... my caliper tops out at 154mm and one measurement was bigger .... so I said just add 4mm from the mark I made on the tape..... well I cut 4mm the wrong way and was 8mm short..... well each end of tube sits 8mm inside the fitting so was only part way in..... had few drops slide down tube /.... cuda been worse.

Let's see what else dumb did I do ..... oh year, hand cut SLI Bridge protectors (metal fittings close) outta DVI rubber covers.....then went .... DUH.... move bridge to other tabs.... put SLI tab protectors on SLI tabe behind fittings.

I cleaned all components using an aquarium filler / gravel vacuum venturi set up to sink .... did everything but pump .... now have tiny bits of plastic on CPU block ..... hoping I can reverse flow and blow out, if not will have to remove , clean and replace .... glad block has acrylic top and I using clear distilled water for 1st week .... mental note ...always use acrylic top blocks for the visual access. Have a very good mount with core temps varying by 2C, well at least under OCCT, so don't wanna remove if don't have to.

AIDA64 now running ..... OCCT used to shut down w/ stock cooler..... seeing an 7C spread w/ AIDA .... 58 - 51

Have to figure out why pump always running at full speed.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

OK here's something I'm not getting with the Enthoo PCB, well all the "Fan Control (Asus M6F latest BIOS)

Have two PWM's plugged into CPU and CPU OPT

CPU Q-Fan Control set in BIOS to:

Profile = Manual
CPU Upper Temp = 70C
Max Duty Cycle = 70% (pump rpm = 4400 from 70% to 100&% according to pump curve)

CPU Lower Temp = 30C
CPU Fan Min Duty Cycle = 40% (minimum allowable in BIOS, pump rpm = 2800 / minimum = 1250 rpm from 0 = 12% PWM)

Chassis 1 Fan Q-Control set in BIOS to:

CPU Upper Temp = 70C
Max Duty Cycle = 100%

CPU Lower Temp = 40C (Can not change)
CPU Fan Min Duty Cycle = 60% (Minmum allowable in BIOS) - 60% x 1250 = 750 rpm

yet when IN BIOS....w/ CPU temp = 25C

CPU and CPU Opt are 3214 = 73% ???? ..... why not 40%
CHA are all at 1084 rpm (thru Phanteks PCB) = 87% ????? ....why not 60%


----------



## doyll

Sound like a job well done Jack.

I used to do a lot of custom fabrication... always knew I could make a better one than the finished piece in front of me... sometimes after making same/similar pieces for several applications. Very few if anybody else could see what wasn't quite right, but I knew what and where.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> OK here's something I'm not getting with the Enthoo PCB, well all the "Fan Control (Asus M6F latest BIOS)
> 
> Have two PWM's plugged into CPU and CPU OPT
> 
> CPU Q-Fan Control set in BIOS to:
> 
> Profile = Manual
> CPU Upper Temp = 70C
> Max Duty Cycle = 70% (pump rpm = 4400 from 70% to 100&% according to pump curve)
> 
> CPU Lower Temp = 30C
> CPU Fan Min Duty Cycle = 40% (minimum allowable in BIOS, pump rpm = 2800 / minimum = 1250 rpm from 0 = 12% PWM)
> 
> Chassis 1 Fan Q-Control set in BIOS to:
> 
> CPU Upper Temp = 70C
> Max Duty Cycle = 100%
> 
> CPU Lower Temp = 40C (Can not change)
> CPU Fan Min Duty Cycle = 60% (Minmum allowable in BIOS) - 60% x 1250 = 750 rpm
> 
> yet when IN BIOS....w/ CPU temp = 25C
> 
> CPU and CPU Opt are 3214 = 73% ???? ..... why not 40%
> CHA are all at 1084 rpm (thru Phanteks PCB) = 87% ????? ....why not 60%


Have you tried speedfan?
First set it to 'manual' in advanced settings, then setup a custom fan controller for the channel.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Yes.....speedfan detects no fans at all

Also beware ..... getting speedfan these days is difficult prospect ..... even authors site has install packages which does "guerilla installs" of other software. had to poke around a lot before found a way to d/l w/o the 'extras"
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roxycon*
> 
> From jack's questions;
> 
> I have a molex with three males going from my ax1200w wich is first powering my two d5pwm's and then a splitter (1 female to 4 males) wich is powering two ssd's, molex to sata-power, one is powering a 5mm led on the bay res and the last one is coupled up to my front io wich then goes to a corsair link led module with 3 strips on a single lane. Have another molex out from my psu but its only powering three corsair link fan modules and the phanteks hub..


I was confident enough about the cable..... but having two molex's for one pump , even if it is a duplex was giving em concern.... found myself several times already noticing 1 pump stopping and having to fiddle with plug. So plan was to remove the two molex cables from pump and wire both sets if wires to single connector.

Also makes it much more convenient when doing leak test with the mini PSU...as it's only got one connector..... on the other hand, I did start up the system and run for an hour w/ just 1 pump before hammering it w/ 2.....maybe separate ones is a good idea


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> Yes.....speedfan detects no fans at all
> 
> Also beware ..... getting speedfan these days is difficult prospect ..... even authors site has install packages which does "guerilla installs" of other software. had to poke around a lot before found a way to d/l w/o the 'extras"
> I was confident enough about the cable..... but having two molex's for one pump , even if it is a duplex was giving em concern.... found myself several times already noticing 1 pump stopping and having to fiddle with plug. So plan was to remove the two molex cables from pump and wire both sets if wires to single connector.


Weird, was just reading in the RIVBE owners club thread that speedfan picks up and allows custom control over every fan header on the RIVBE and RIVE boards, not just the CPU ones, and lets you set the PWM to lower duty cycle settings than the ASUS suite allows.


----------



## Hereisphilly

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> AIDA64 now running ..... OCCT used to shut down w/ stock cooler..... seeing an 7C spread w/ AIDA .... 58 - 51
> 
> Have to figure out why pump always running at full speed.


Are you running an overclock and delidded? If so that's awesome temps!


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Unless your card(s) is/are too long for it a Photon fits just fine in the Enthoo Primo....


Unfortunately right now that includes the top three cards in each manufacturer's line at least if using multiple cards..... "Res Bracket II" will adress that problem for some of them. Hopefully Enthoo II will get the rest.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hereisphilly*
> 
> Are you running an overclock and delidded? If so that's awesome temps!


No.... haven't had the time yet .... and wanna clean block before I get temps too high. I wnated to get a benchmark and see how far I could go lidded before doing the delid thing.
Quote:


> Now topping out at 35 C on GFX cards under Furmark (32% OC on clock / 25% on memory)
> CPU at 44-46C (still stock = 3.9 Ghz)


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Weird, was just reading in the RIVBE owners club thread that speedfan picks up and allows custom control over every fan header on the RIVBE and RIVE boards, not just the CPU ones, and lets you set the PWM to lower duty cycle settings than the ASUS suite allows.


AIDA sees em..... OCCT sees em..... dunno what's up with SpeedFan


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> Unfortunately right now that includes the top three cards in each manufacturer's line at least if using multiple cards..... "Res Bracket II" will adress that problem for some of them. Hopefully Enthoo II will get the rest. [...]


It's 73mm wide. If you mount it on the bracket with the right side as far to the front of the case as you can get away with (since you'd have to drill your own holes for it or attach it however), there's room to use a Photon res w/ a 10.5" card with a few mm's to spare. It should be no issue with most of the card(s) available today. I know I could put a Titan or ref 780 in there with it.

The only thing getting in the way of multiple cards is the bracket itself, not the res.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> It's 73mm wide. If you mount it on the bracket with the right side as far to the front of the case as you can get away with (since you'd have to drill your own holes for it or attach it however), there's room to use a Photon res w/ a 10.5" card with a few mm's to spare. It should be no issue with most of the card(s) available today. I know I could put a Titan or ref 780 in there with it.
> 
> The only thing getting in the way of multiple cards is the bracket itself, not the res.


yes, reference cards work just fine .... it's the Classy's Lightnings, DCII's and such .... I calculated the fit some good 10 pages back and came yup with a theoretical 3mm to spare with the Photon. But looking at my 60mm installed, it looks like a bear w/ no room for error.



When i did the calcs, I worried that if it fit, if ya drill ya mount holes 1mm off, you culd be sunk. That space between Res and 10.5" card is just under 3mm in the pic above .... one on right just over 10mm

10mm + 3mm + 60mm = 73mm ... photon is 75mm wide with a 70mm tube..... can be done but very hard working in that small space.

I sooooo wanted a glass tube, acrylic already has marks on it from slidding in and outta bracket. If they had, or you drilled in, slots instead of hole for the res bracket mounting, where ya could have some wiggle room (say up to 5mm), I wuda taken a shot at it.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Yeah I'm going to use that industrial strength velcro (discussed above) to mount mine so I don't have to worry about getting the holes drilled perfect or not.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hereisphilly*
> 
> Are you running an overclock and delidded? If so that's awesome temps!


Just ran 1st OC Bench .... RoG Real Bench - 45 Multiplier / Offset / 1.3v / DDR3=1600
61-62-56-54
Ran Round 2 .... RoG Real Bench - 46 Multiplier / Offset / 1.363v / DDR3=1600
73-73-77-65

Just ran Round 3 .... RoG Real Bench - 46 Multiplier / Offset / 1.375v / DDR3=2400
77-74-69-66

46 was my target and didn't have to touch anything else so all rest at full strength....think I'll work on lowering voltage rather than 4.7.....


----------



## shiv15

I don't know if anyone saw my earlier question about pumps. Is 1 MCP355 enough for 1 cpu, 2gpu, and 480,420,and 240? It will have 3 90* fittings (off rads)


----------



## Hereisphilly

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> Just ran 1st OC Bench .... RoG Real Bench - 45 Multiplier / Offset / 1.3v / DDR3=1600
> 61-62-56-54
> Ran Round 2 .... RoG Real Bench - 46 Multiplier / Offset / 1.363v / DDR3=1600
> 73-73-77-65
> 
> Just ran Round 3 .... RoG Real Bench - 46 Multiplier / Offset / 1.375v / DDR3=2400
> 77-74-69-66
> 
> 46 was my target and didn't have to touch anything else so all rest at full strength....think I'll work on lowering voltage rather than 4.7.....


You would benefit massively from a delid, I have my i5-4670k running at between 48-55 max on aida, depending on the core, at 4.6 oc, with around 1.26V.
Yeah I stopped at 4.6, I have no doubt my chip will do it, I just want to get everything nice and stable for a bit before I get the oc itch


----------



## smokedawg

I have some questions regarding the fan hub:

I have 2 rads (480, 360) with 1 set of fans each. That's 7 rad-fans (GT AP14) + 3 included case fans. What I would like to do is combine them and connect them to the Enthoo-Primo Fan Hub and connect that to the cpu_fan header on my asrock extreme3 gen3.
Could I splice up to 3 or 4 GT fans together and have them occupy only one slot on the hub? Some of the case fans came with a Y-Splitter so I assume at least 2 can be combined. Since I might go for push-pull in the future (7 extra fans) I was trying to keep some slots on the fan hub empty.
The Gentle Typhoons also have a Molex connector which I am currently using. Once connected to the fan hub those wouldn't be needed anymore?

I hope this makes sense. Trying to reduce the cable mess in my Enthoo Primo's back


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smokedawg*
> 
> I have some questions regarding the fan hub:
> 
> I have 2 rads (480, 360) with 1 set of fans each. That's 7 rad-fans (GT AP14) + 3 included case fans. What I would like to do is combine them and connect them to the Enthoo-Primo Fan Hub and connect that to the cpu_fan header on my asrock extreme3 gen3.
> Could I splice up to 3 or 4 GT fans together and have them occupy only one slot on the hub? Some of the case fans came with a Y-Splitter so I assume at least 2 can be combined. Since I might go for push-pull in the future (7 extra fans) I was trying to keep some slots on the fan hub empty.
> The Gentle Typhoons also have a Molex connector which I am currently using. Once connected to the fan hub those wouldn't be needed anymore?
> 
> I hope this makes sense. Trying to reduce the cable mess in my Enthoo Primo's back


Sure, you can use splitter cables from the ports on the hub, but keep in mind that the specs of the hub says it can only handle up to 11 fans. That should work for the 10 fans you currently have, but if you go push-pull you'll want to either add another fan hub (somewhere buried in this topic it was mentioned that Phanteks hinted they would be offering extra hubs at some point - I think January was mentioned but not positive about that) or use a fan controller.


----------



## doyll

I would not advise running more than 2 fans on each of the hub's headers. Each header has it's own circuit and components on the PCB. Running more than 2 fans on each may overload and burn something out. I think Phanteks' 11 fan control is figured by using the master rpm header with fan header #1 and using "Y" splitters with 2 fans on each of the other 5 headers (#2-6).. Total 11 fans.


----------



## smokedawg

Thanks for the input to both of you. +rep


----------



## borax

Guys what is the maximum thickness of rad i can put at the top of the case in push pull, Triple 360mm?


----------



## celmaitarero

I'm almost ready.....









Sent from my iPhone 4s using Tapatalk 2


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *borax*
> 
> Guys what is the maximum thickness of rad i can put at the top of the case in push pull, Triple 360mm?


Short answer: A 45mm thick 120-series rad like a 360 or 480 in push-pull with 25mm thick fans will extend down to even with the top of a mobo, but also will be ~54mm offset from the mobo so as long as you don't have anything taller than ~54mm on your mobo, like heatsinks or ram, etc, it's possible that you can get away with an even thicker rad, a 60mm or an 80mm thick monsta even, if you don't mind the rad & fans overhanging the mobo.

Rather than reinvent the wheel, here's a more extensive recent reply to someone else where I'm referencing a 480 rad, but all the same clearance issues also apply to a 360 rad too except a 360 won't affect the front 5.25" drive bays like a 480 might.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> I have a 480 XT45 in the roof in push-pull.
> 
> There is 70 mm of clearance from the top of the mobo to the inside top of the case, so an Xt45 with push fan (45mm + 25mm) comes just even with the top of the mobo. A 45mm thick rad with 25mm push fan will fit perfect with _any_ motherboard because 120mm-series rad/fan mounts are also offset by ~54 mm (140mm series fans/rads are offset by ~44mm).
> 
> 
> 
> With that offset, as long as you don't have anything on your mobo taller than ~54mm, you can run even thicker rads in push pull.
> 
> Do note that you will pretty much lose the use of your top 5.25" bay with a 45mm 480 with push fans.
> 
> - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
> 
> FYI, most of these type questions have been answered by Jesse over at themodzoo:
> 
> http://themodzoo.com/forum/index.php?/page/articles.html/_/reviews/cases/phanteks-enthoo-primo-full-tower-review-r67?pg=8


----------



## grifftech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hereisphilly*
> 
> You would benefit massively from a delid, I have my i5-4670k running at between 48-55 max on aida, depending on the core, at 4.6 oc, with around 1.26V.
> Yeah I stopped at 4.6, I have no doubt my chip will do it, I just want to get everything nice and stable for a bit before I get the oc itch


Man I want to delid but am soooooo nervous about doing it


----------



## Kurodragon

Just got this case, it's awesome! Didn't expect how big it was as my first full tower case.

I have two concerns that may just be specific to me:

1. It's hard for me to screw my PCI bracket into the case for my soundcard and NIC. When seated in the PCI slots the screwholes don't align and I have to push the card back a little to make it fit. My GPU seems fine.

2. The bottom fan seems to be scraping against the fan mount occasionally. I can wiggle it a little to make it stop but eventually it just keeps making this rattling sound.

Other than that, I can't wait to start WCing.


----------



## flaminghomer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kurodragon*
> 
> 2. The bottom fan seems to be scraping against the fan mount occasionally. I can wiggle it a little to make it stop but eventually it just keeps making this rattling sound.


I have exactly the same problem when the fans run at >50%. Haven't found a solution for this yet...


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kurodragon*
> 
> 1. It's hard for me to screw my PCI bracket into the case for my soundcard and NIC. When seated in the PCI slots the screwholes don't align and I have to push the card back a little to make it fit. My GPU seems fine.


Instead of moving PCI card push the back of case in/out a little to get it aligned. Should than line up.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smokedawg*
> 
> Thanks for the input to both of you. +rep


Thanks.









After all this thread is all about helping fellow or wannabee Enthoo Primo owners.


----------



## borax

does anyone know were i can find /what company manufactures LED strip lights that will fit inside the led strip outside the case?


----------



## chrisnyc75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *borax*
> 
> does anyone know were i can find /what company manufactures LED strip lights that will fit inside the led strip outside the case?


http://themodzoo.com/forum/index.php?/topic/883-enthoo-primo-front-led-color-change/

The problem with mod'ing this, IMO, is that you then have a color mismatch between the front LED strip and the front fans. Of course you could swap out the fans for a different color, but Phanteks doesn't make red LED fans and not everybody is adept at soldering LEDs.

Fwiw, I ended up leaving the front LED strip blue to match the front fans, even though the color scheme inside my case is mostly red/black. Looks fine.


----------



## jassilamba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chrisnyc75*
> 
> http://themodzoo.com/forum/index.php?/topic/883-enthoo-primo-front-led-color-change/
> 
> The problem with mod'ing this, IMO, is that you then have a color mismatch between the front LED strip and the front fans. Of course you could swap out the fans for a different color, but Phanteks doesn't make red LED fans and not everybody is adept at soldering LEDs.
> 
> Fwiw, I ended up leaving the front LED strip blue to match the front fans, even though the color scheme inside my case is mostly red/black. Looks fine.


I always wanted to change the fans, but never got the time. Anyways, I just ordered some R9s for the rebuild, next is to order some blocks (waiting for Aquacomputer blocks to come out), Have a couple reviews in line that need to be done, and then I'm start working on my enthoo build.

Between Maximus VI Formula users, there is finally great news from EK:

Linky Link


----------



## Hereisphilly

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *grifftech*
> 
> Man I want to delid but am soooooo nervous about doing it


I was too, but its surprisingly easy!
I used the hammer and vice method, borrowed one from a friend.
You dint even need a workbench, i just put it in the corner of a room pushed up against the skirting board, and then with a block of wood resting against the cpu, hit it a few times with a hammer.
I did buy an old pentium for £3 to get the feel of it, and then after did mine straight away


----------



## grifftech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hereisphilly*
> 
> I was too, but its surprisingly easy!
> I used the hammer and vice method, borrowed one from a friend.
> You dint even need a workbench, i just put it in the corner of a room pushed up against the skirting board, and then with a block of wood resting against the cpu, hit it a few times with a hammer.
> I did buy an old pentium for £3 to get the feel of it, and then after did mine straight away


Once you delid, what do you use to clean and then what compound do you put on the die?


----------



## Hereisphilly

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *grifftech*
> 
> Once you delid, what do you use to clean and then what compound do you put on the die?


I just cleaned the die off with some paper towels and some isopropyl rubbing alcohol (£3 off ebay). Then using a credit card, I scraped off the existing sillicon glue and rubbed it all down with a coffee filter.
I'm using the EK naked ivy mount so i dont use the IHS (this only works if you have an EK supremacy). I used the bundled Gelid GC-Extreme TIM between the die and the block, but any good tim will do the the job and be within a couple of degrees. MX-4 is good too


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shiv15*
> 
> I don't know if anyone saw my earlier question about pumps. Is 1 MCP355 enough for 1 cpu, 2gpu, and 480,420,and 240? It will have 3 90* fittings (off rads)


More than enough rad id say







I have a 420 and a 280 and with 2 780 GPUs (32% OC) and 4770k CPU (4.6GHz) my water temps are at 30C and I have just push fans. I was gonna add pull when Phanteks let us buy additional PCBs but now I don't really see the point.

As for the pump..... I went with a 35X2 (Liked the idea of having 2nd pump for redundancy if 1st one died) .... tho it seems to run just fine with just one of the pumps running

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hereisphilly*
> 
> You would benefit massively from a delid, I have my i5-4670k running at between 48-55 max on aida, depending on the core, at 4.6 oc, with around 1.26V.
> Yeah I stopped at 4.6, I have no doubt my chip will do it, I just want to get everything nice and stable for a bit before I get the oc itch


The i7 and the HT does make it a bit more difficult .... maybe I'll try and see what i could do w/ HT off. But w/ it on, Im a full 0.11 volts above ya so will generate more heat regardless, lidded or delidded....but lookin at the numbers.... at 1.3 volts, I'm 0.04 more than you and was only 6C higher .... seeing as 0.07 more volts took me up 15C .... just on the ratio I'd estimate the 0.11 that I'm higher to be worth close to 22C .... If I could be stable at 1.26, that would put me at 52C w/ HT on ..... lidded.

I assume you overclocking in manual mode, I've been testing on adaptive since that's what everyday setting would be ..... I'd easily shoot past 1.5 volts if I ran AIDA on adaptive..... jumps up to 1.408 under RoG RB which is was close enuff to my self imposed 1.4 limit (at no more than 1.392 99% of the time) that I let it pass....since only for short bursts.

I had a goal of 4.6 Ghz @ 2400 RAM speed and < 75C..... I didn't think my chances of reaching that goal lidded were possible.....now that I'm there, I'm a little less inclined to tear down and delid..... who knows tho..... might be tempted over time to go for 4.7 ... then again...... it took 0.7 to get to 4.6 from 4.5..... would expect more to be required from 4.6 to 4.7 and even that much puts me at 1.45 which is territory i don't wanna be in for a production box.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smokedawg*
> 
> Could I splice up to 3 or 4 GT fans together and have them occupy only one slot on the hub? Some of the case fans came with a Y-Splitter so I assume at least 2 can be combined. Since I might go for push-pull in the future (7 extra fans) I was trying to keep some slots on the fan hub empty.


Two fans max on any connector


----------



## doyll

Just got another base under my Primo











I'm quite pleased with it.


----------



## grifftech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Just got another base under my Primo
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm quite pleased with it.


what is the base made of?


----------



## jassilamba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> More than enough rad id say
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have a 420 and a 280 and with 2 780 GPUs (32% OC) and 4770k CPU (4.6GHz) my water temps are at 30C and I have just push fans. I was gonna add pull when Phanteks let us buy additional PCBs but now I don't really see the point.
> 
> As for the pump..... I went with a 35X2 (Liked the idea of having 2nd pump for redundancy if 1st one died) .... tho it seems to run just fine with just one of the pumps running


Typical loops do not need more than 1 pump. If you are running some really thick fluid with lots of additives, or if you have a lot of tight bends, you might need more than 1 pump.

Also the 35X pump top is one of the best pump tops for DDC pumps. Head pressure is the main thing when looking at pumps/tops.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *grifftech*
> 
> what is the base made of?


10mm 7ply voidless solid birth plywood with overlap corner joints glued, drilled and tapped. Than prepped & painted with a good smooth coat of satin black paint and 30mm castors installed.


----------



## grifftech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> 10mm 7ply voidless solid birth plywood with overlap corner joints glued, drilled and tapped. Than prepped & painted with a good smooth coat of satin black paint and 30mm castors installed.


Is it mounted to the base, or just sitting on it?


----------



## grifftech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> 10mm 7ply voidless solid birth plywood with overlap corner joints glued, drilled and tapped. Than prepped & painted with a good smooth coat of satin black paint and 30mm castors installed.


Is it mounted to the base or just sitting on it?


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *grifftech*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> 10mm 7ply voidless solid birth plywood with overlap corner joints glued, drilled and tapped. Than prepped & painted with a good smooth coat of satin black paint and 30mm castors installed.
> 
> 
> 
> Is it mounted to the base or just sitting on it?
Click to expand...

Easy now! No need to double post!









Case just sets on it. The rubber feet on case base hold it just fine. I've been making bases for years and never had any problem keeping case on them.


----------



## grifftech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Easy now! No need to double post!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Case just sets on it. The rubber feet on case base hold it just fine. I've been making bases for years and never had any problem keeping case on them.


Cool, sorry for double post







Not sure how that happened


----------



## doyll

No problem. Just had to rib you about it.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *borax*
> 
> Guys what is the maximum thickness of rad i can put at the top of the case in push pull, Triple 360mm?


It depends on MoBo....XT45 works...UT60 is a maybe depending on MoBo .... on my MV6 it wuda made it awful hard to access the MPCIE module and 9 Pin EPS connector

At 1400 rpm, the UT45 will give ya 247 watts of cooling, the UT60 will give ya 7 watts more at 254

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jassilamba*
> 
> Between Maximus VI Formula users, there is finally great news from EK:
> 
> Linky Link


I don't get it.....how you pipe to that thing ? If you have SLI


----------



## borax

Thanks for the info. I've chosen to go with an XT 45 dual in the bottom and a st30 360mm in the top. Top will be push pull bottom in push?


----------



## jassilamba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> It depends on MoBo....XT45 works...UT60 is a maybe depending on MoBo .... on my MV6 it wuda made it awful hard to access the MPCIE module and 9 Pin EPS connector
> 
> At 1400 rpm, the UT45 will give ya 247 watts of cooling, the UT60 will give ya 7 watts more at 254
> I don't get it.....how you pipe to that thing ? If you have SLI


And that my friend makes it a bad design. If I had the mobo, and if I was to get a block for it (I will NOT use the block that the board comes with), I will just use the VMR block. SB cooling is over-rated. Don't think you need a water block there.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *borax*
> 
> Thanks for the info. I've chosen to go with an XT 45 dual in the bottom and a st30 360mm in the top. Top will be push pull bottom in push?


It depends on MoBo....XT45 works...UT60 is a maybe depending on MoBo .... on my MV6 it wuda made it awful hard to access the MPCIE module and 9 Pin EPS connector.... I have a XT45-420 on top and a UT60-280 in bottom using Phanteks fans..... with JUST push fans, water temps are 30C, CPU at 4.6 GHz 1.37v and 2 780's in SLI OC'd 32% .... I may not bothe rgetting 2nd set of fans

At 1400 rpm, the UT45 will give ya 247 watts of cooling, the UT60 will give ya 7 watts more at 254
I don't get it.....how you pipe to that thing ? If you have SLI[/quote]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jassilamba*
> 
> Typical loops do not need more than 1 pump. If you are running some really thick fluid with lots of additives, or if you have a lot of tight bends, you might need more than 1 pump.
> 
> Also the 35X pump top is one of the best pump tops for DDC pumps. Head pressure is the main thing when looking at pumps/tops.


I was mainly interested in redundancy and noise..... rather run two pumps at 50% than one at 100% .... Mainly tho, as this is a production box, I can't afford to have it down while I wait 3-4 weeks for a warranty replacement. One pump goes down, it can remain in use on the 2nd pump.

Though with 18 ninety degree bends, four 45's, 2 tees, I kinda like having the extra oomph.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jassilamba*
> 
> And that my friend makes it a bad design. If I had the mobo, and if I was to get a block for it (I will NOT use the block that the board comes with), I will just use the VMR block. SB cooling is over-rated. Don't think you need a water block there.


I have been using anodized aluminum in highly corrosive environments for over 25 years .... given that experience, I have no concerns in this regard. Evn if it fails, the only thing it can harm is itself as it is the less noble metal.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> It depends on MoBo....XT45 works...UT60 is a maybe depending on MoBo .... on my MV6 it wuda made it awful hard to access the MPCIE module and 9 Pin EPS connector.... I have a XT45-420 on top and a UT60-280 in bottom using Phanteks fans..... with JUST push fans, water temps are 30C, CPU at 4.6 GHz 1.37v and 2 780's in SLI OC'd 32% .... I may not bothe rgetting 2nd set of fans
> 
> At 1400 rpm, the UT45 will give ya 247 watts of cooling, the UT60 will give ya 7 watts more at 254
> I don't get it.....how you pipe to that thing ? If you have SLI


I was mainly interested in redundancy and noise..... rather run two pumps at 50% than one at 100% .... Mainly tho, as this is a production box, I can't afford to have it down while I wait 3-4 weeks for a warranty replacement. One pump goes down, it can remain in use on the 2nd pump.

Though with 18 ninety degree bends, four 45's, 2 tees, I kinda like having the extra oomph.

[/quote]
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jassilamba*
> 
> And that my friend makes it a bad design. If I had the mobo, and if I was to get a block for it (I will NOT use the block that the board comes with), I will just use the VMR block. SB cooling is over-rated. Don't think you need a water block there.


I have been using anodized aluminum in highly corrosive environments for over 25 years .... given that experience, I have no concerns in this regard. Evn if it fails, the only thing it can harm is itself as it is the less noble metal.


----------



## borax

I mounted my Primochill 240mm res to the bracket today after some drilling exercises. Fits nicely with ample room both on top and at the bottom.


----------



## jassilamba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> I have been using anodized aluminum in highly corrosive environments for over 25 years .... given that experience, I have no concerns in this regard. Evn if it fails, the only thing it can harm is itself as it is the less noble metal.


As long as you are okay with it, that is all that matters. But back to EKs new block. It would have been nice if they did what they did for Hero/Gene, just come out with the the VRM block, and if someone wants to buy the SB block, let them.

I will admit, the formula is one of the best looking mobos out there in the market.

Oh on the pumps, the setup you have it really nice. The swiftech dual combo thingy performs really well, without needing any other tops. My main reason for the DDC pumps is the small form factor. Less space + power = win for me.


----------



## mixman

You are right about the M6F. I loved that mobo, good looking, great bios. Unfortunately I had to give it up because this build was for a Hackintosh and newer ASUS boards are not very Hackintosh friendly.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jassilamba*
> 
> As long as you are okay with it, that is all that matters. But back to EKs new block. It would have been nice if they did what they did for Hero/Gene, just come out with the the VRM block, and if someone wants to buy the SB block, let them.
> 
> I will admit, the formula is one of the best looking mobos out there in the market.
> 
> Oh on the pumps, the setup you have it really nice. The swiftech dual combo thingy performs really well, without needing any other tops. My main reason for the DDC pumps is the small form factor. Less space + power = win for me.


You hit the nail on the head .... I appreciate hearing what peeps picked and why. Somethings peeps come up with are "Sheet, I never thot of that". If this was a fun box (careful there guys), I'd have a 35x.

It is gorgeous tho..... was just on phone with Asus .... system wasn't keeping time.....he tells me to take out CMOS battery and and he'll hold..... year rip out WC system. take off all components, remove thermal armor, rebuild ..... hang on I'll be right w/ ya









Then he said to load new BIOS and to "find the clear CMAS button first...oh I'm sorry, your system doesn't have one". I guess I better relabel the one on the back I/O panel then









Grrrrrr..... anyway .... all my OC's were borked this morning ..... none passed RoG bench anyway .... cleared CMS and time seems to be working..... rerunning stress tests now....seeing 1.152v so far on 4.2 Ghz (still on Auto for voltage) so looks like an improvement. Didn't solve my PWN issue tho....still not dropping fans below 1000 rpm no matter what .... gonna try a temp sensor and see if that helps.

Yeah, I use anodized aluminum extensively in waste water treatment tanks and chemical storage areas, salt water environs...... I wasn't concerned after seeing it hold up to that ...and if it does corrode, it will give up to the other metals so that's on Asus ..... all I'll have to do is clean out the fuzz it left on other components.

Question (for anyone):

After everything was borked today, time , OCs .... i started over from scratch .... using Auto everything till it gets in the way ..... explain this one

Stock, everything Auto
DDR3 = 1600
Vcore = 1.248 max during RoG Bench
DRAM - 1.671 (set at 1.65)
Temps (max) = 54, 56, 49, 48
Temps Idle = 26 - 27

4.0, everything Auto
DDR3 = 1600
Vcore = 1.216 max during RoG Bench
DRAM - 1.677 (set at 1.65)
Temps (max) = 54, 55, 49, 50
Temps Idle = 32 - 36

4.2, everything Auto
DDR3 = 1600
Vcore = 1.152 max during RoG Bench
DRAM - 1.677 (set at 1.65)
Temps (max) = 55, 55, 49, 49
Temps Idle = 31 - 35

Ok, now ya know my question..... Vcore going down w/ clocks go up???

EDIT:

Here's the rest ......

4.4, everything Auto except switched to Adaptive
DDR3 = 1600
VID = 1.175
Vcore = 1.292 during RoG Bench
DRAM - 1.677 (set at 1.65)
Temps (max) = 64, 62, 60, 56
Temps Idle = 29 - 31

4.5, everything Auto except switched to Adaptive
DDR3 = 2400
VID - 1.287
Vcore = 1.328during RoG Bench
DRAM - 1.677 (set at 1.65)
Temps (max) = 68, 66, 62, 59
Temps Idle = 26 - 29

4.6, everything Auto except switched to Adaptive
DDR3 = 2400
VID = 1.38
Vcore = 1.392 / 1.408 during RoG Bench (0.5 sec peaks to 1.424)
DRAM - 1.677 (set at 1.65)
Temps (max) = 76, 71, 69, 63
Temps Idle = 27 - 30


----------



## JackNaylorPE

OK, it's 4 am ..... I got all my OCs done before midnite ....and been working on fans / pump speeds.

At the start of the day, all my fans ran at about 1050 rpm and min pump speed was over 3000 rpm.. .... nothing i did in the BIOS would change that. So I tired FanXpert2 and had no luck there either........ so i tried running the "Fan Tuning" Feature and low and behold I got the pump to run at 1400 rpm ..... however it would recognize that fans existed.

So I tried tuning it w/ just one fan connected and that seemed to work..... but as soon as I connected them all back up.... we were at 1232 rpm..... couldn't make it go away, even uninstalled AiSuite. After 3.5 hours of troubleshooting .... here's what i discovered..... I can connect 7 fans to that PCB thingie (5 rads, 2 front and 1 rear) and I get PWM control..... as long as the 12V power is disconnected. As soon as I connect the 12V power..... all fans go to full speed.

Can anyone confirm or is this just me.


----------



## 47 Knucklehead

I'm considering this case for an upcoming build, and I have a simple question.

How hard is it to swap out (and does Phantek offer them) the blue LED's for another color? The LED fans are obviously easy to swap out, but I was more concerned about the blue LED? on the one side.


----------



## doyll

Jesse on The Mod Zoo changed his to white
http://themodzoo.com/forum/index.php?/topic/883-enthoo-primo-front-led-color-change/


----------



## 47 Knucklehead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Jesse on The Mod Zoo changed his to white
> http://themodzoo.com/forum/index.php?/topic/883-enthoo-primo-front-led-color-change/


Sweet!

I am definitely getting this case then.


----------



## doyll

Look forward to seeing it!


----------



## 47 Knucklehead

Well, with 8% off from FrozenCPU and free shipping, I just couldn't resist.

Now to look over those LED links and pick up some white (or orange if I can find them) strips. Then I think I might convert my "Muzzle Flash" over to this case when I switch from flexible tubing to rigid acrylic tubing.

Glad to be a part of the group.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *47 Knucklehead*
> 
> Well, with 8% off from FrozenCPU and free shipping, I just couldn't resist.
> 
> Now to look over those LED links and pick up some white (or orange if I can find them) strips. Then I think I might convert my "Muzzle Flash" over to this case when I switch from flexible tubing to rigid acrylic tubing.
> 
> Glad to be a part of the group.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Nice!

I put mine on a castor base so it's easier to move and also increases airflow to bottom fans. There is only about 90sq cm of vent to bottom fans. Castor base raises case 42mm and add 350sq cm of area for airflow to bottom fans.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Just got another base under my Primo
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm quite pleased with it.


----------



## rpjkw11

Nothing exotic or terribly interesting with my build, so I haven't bothered with pics. Because I went with the Asus Z87 Hero, I had to buy a new Phanteks TC14E cooler in red, plus additional red cables and alternated red with white. My computing "habits" haven't changed much from the late 1990s but Flight Sim X screams with a nVidea 770 from EVGA. I'm planning on a 780 TI when the more customized cards come out (hoping, too, for more than 3GB VRAM). Eventually I'm going to install a Swiftech H320 Kit for my first attempt with watercooling. THEN I might post some pics. In the meantime, I couldn't be happier with my rig.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *47 Knucklehead*
> 
> Well, with 8% off from FrozenCPU and free shipping, I just couldn't resist.
> 
> Now to look over those LED links and pick up some white (or orange if I can find them) strips. Then I think I might convert my "Muzzle Flash" over to this case when I switch from flexible tubing to rigid acrylic tubing.
> 
> Glad to be a part of the group.


Welcome aboard knucklehead ! (rarely to I get to say that w/o insulting someone









There's a dimensional drawing in Post # 1000 ..... if ya need to see what fits where...... will be adding the flow diagram and parts list shortly. (need to edit w/ the last minute items).

Give a yell if ya need anything.

BTW, I had a helluva time finding LED's with a black tape (less likely to catch a glimpse of then the white) ...... searched all over and found them on Amazon ..... 5 m roll for $11 .... came from China, free delivery (took 11 days)

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rpjkw11*
> 
> Nothing exotic or terribly interesting with my build, so I haven't bothered with pics. Because I went with the Asus Z87 Hero, I had to buy a new Phanteks TC14E cooler in red, plus additional red cables and alternated red with white. My computing "habits" haven't changed much from the late 1990s but Flight Sim X screams with a nVidea 770 from EVGA. I'm planning on a 780 TI when the more customized cards come out (hoping, too, for more than 3GB VRAM). Eventually I'm going to install a Swiftech H320 Kit for my first attempt with watercooling. THEN I might post some pics. In the meantime, I couldn't be happier with my rig.


Gratz ... as above yell if ya need "what fits" assistance ....

Are you gonna play with the new Flight Sim ? My son is a pilot and he's all excited about it. From the folks who made IL-2 Sturmovik (sp ?)

http://forum.il2sturmovik.com/topic/168-developer-diary/#entry41404


----------



## 47 Knucklehead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> Welcome aboard knucklehead ! (rarely to I get to say that w/o insulting someone
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There's a dimensional drawing in Post # 1000 ..... if ya need to see what fits where...... will be adding the flow diagram and parts list shortly. (need to edit w/ the last minute items).
> 
> Give a yell if ya need anything.
> 
> BTW, I had a helluva time finding LED's with a black tape (less likely to catch a glimpse of then the white) ...... searched all over and found them on Amazon ..... 5 m roll for $11 .... came from China, free delivery (took 11 days)


Many thanks!

I'm sure I will be calling on everyone (as well as combing through the thread) as time goes on.

Guess it's time I start a new build log for this ... [Build Log] Muzzle Flash II: The Sniper


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rpjkw11*
> 
> Nothing exotic or terribly interesting with my build, so I haven't bothered with pics. Because I went with the Asus Z87 Hero, I had to buy a new Phanteks TC14E cooler in red, plus additional red cables and alternated red with white. My computing "habits" haven't changed much from the late 1990s but Flight Sim X screams with a nVidea 770 from EVGA. I'm planning on a 780 TI when the more customized cards come out (hoping, too, for more than 3GB VRAM). Eventually I'm going to install a Swiftech H320 Kit for my first attempt with watercooling. THEN I might post some pics. In the meantime, I couldn't be happier with my rig.


Please post some of it now. Sounds very nice.
Mine will be air cooled too.. with a black TC14PE.


----------



## 47 Knucklehead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jassilamba*
> 
> That is the key, with positive pressure chances of you getting air in from all those gaps is very low. Perfect example is the back of the case, which if you think about is all ventilated with just one fan. WIth air being blown in from all directions in the case, the rear will not suck in any dust. That is still not an excuse to not clean inside the case regularly lol.


Question about your drawing (and this case in particular).

From what I'm reading, it doesn't appear that I will be able to put an XSPC RX360 60mm radiator with "push/pull" fans up top and have it not hit my GA-Z77Z-UP7 motherboard. I rant into no amount of issues with trying to cram that into my Switch 810 case, and ended up taking a grinder to the case to finally shoe-horn it in. If this isn't the case here (and I hope I can just put an RX360 in "push/pull" in this case), what are your thoughts about just doing push on the RX360?

According to your drawing, you are sucking cool air in from the top, pushing it through the radiator, and dumping it INSIDE the case. I've always tried to avoid this. Do you think it will be a major issue? Or should I just get a 45mm 360 radiator and go "push/pull" up to and have the air blow out the top?

Thanks for any input.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *47 Knucklehead*
> 
> Question about your drawing (and this case in particular).
> 
> From what I'm reading, it doesn't appear that I will be able to put an XSPC RX360 60mm radiator with "push/pull" fans up top and have it not hit my GA-Z77Z-UP7 motherboard. I rant into no amount of issues with trying to cram that into my Switch 810 case, and ended up taking a grinder to the case to finally shoe-horn it in. If this isn't the case here (and I hope I can just put an RX360 in "push/pull" in this case), what are your thoughts about just doing push on the RX360?
> 
> According to your drawing, you are sucking cool air in from the top, pushing it through the radiator, and dumping it INSIDE the case. I've always tried to avoid this. Do you think it will be a major issue? Or should I just get a 45mm 360 radiator and go "push/pull" up to and have the air blow out the top?
> 
> Thanks for any input.


There's 70mm of space from the top of the mobo to the top of the case, and roughly ~54mm of offset from the mobo with 120-series rads (240, 360, 480) so unless you have something on your mobo near the top that's taller than ~50mm it's possible to put a 60mm or even an 80mm thick rad in push/pull even if you were so inclined but a monsta in push pull would overhang the top 35mm of the mobo.

If you do have anything on your mobo taller than ~50mm then you would need to go with a 45mm thick rad in push pull.

Here's a repost of a recent similar discussion that you may find helpful.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *borax*
> 
> Guys what is the maximum thickness of rad i can put at the top of the case in push pull, Triple 360mm?
> 
> 
> 
> Short answer: A 45mm thick 120-series rad like a 360 or 480 in push-pull with 25mm thick fans will extend down to even with the top of a mobo, but also will be ~54mm offset from the mobo so as long as you don't have anything taller than ~54mm on your mobo, like heatsinks or ram, etc, it's possible that you can get away with an even thicker rad, a 60mm or an 80mm thick monsta even, if you don't mind the rad & fans overhanging the mobo.
> 
> Rather than reinvent the wheel, here's a more extensive recent reply to someone else where I'm referencing a 480 rad, but all the same clearance issues also apply to a 360 rad too except a 360 won't affect the front 5.25" drive bays like a 480 might.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> I have a 480 XT45 in the roof in push-pull.
> 
> There is 70 mm of clearance from the top of the mobo to the inside top of the case, so an Xt45 with push fan (45mm + 25mm) comes just even with the top of the mobo. A 45mm thick rad with 25mm push fan will fit perfect with _any_ motherboard because 120mm-series rad/fan mounts are also offset by ~54 mm (140mm series fans/rads are offset by ~44mm).
> 
> 
> 
> With that offset, as long as you don't have anything on your mobo taller than ~54mm, you can run even thicker rads in push pull.
> 
> Do note that you will pretty much lose the use of your top 5.25" bay with a 45mm 480 with push fans.
> 
> - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
> 
> FYI, most of these type questions have been answered by Jesse (jassilamba) over at themodzoo in the FAQs accompanying his review:
> 
> http://themodzoo.com/forum/index.php?/page/articles.html/_/reviews/cases/phanteks-enthoo-primo-full-tower-review-r67?pg=8
> 
> For example:
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> *What is the max clearance for a radiator installed in the top panel?*
> 
> - The case has a clearance of 70mm for mounting a radiator in the roof. The mounts are offset by ~54mm so installing a 60mm (120mm series) radiator in push pull should not be an issue. As long as you do not have anything taller than 53mm on the motherboard (including ram), you can even install a 480mm monsta radiator in push pull. The X79 Dark, and G-Skill ram CAN be used with a monsta rad in push pull
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> .
> 
> Click to expand...
Click to expand...


----------



## JackNaylorPE

I have an XT45x420 in the top with fans mounted above and a UT60x 280 mounted in the bottom at the moment, both pushing air into the case. All fans are blowing into the case so as to use the cooler air from outside the case rather than the warm air from inside the case to cool the rads.

Plan was I would add the "pull" fans when Phanteks started selling the additional PCBs. But now that I have it running .... I don't see the need.

Running every stress test I can thro at it.... and after just dropping teh fan speeds way down .... I can't get the water over 34C (was 31C with fan speeds at 1000 rpm) ..... CPU is at 4.6 GHz, typically topping out at 75C under RoG Real Bench and under Furmark, GFX card temps are like 40C after 30 minutes... my pump rpm under PWM is about 50% - 65% ....rad fans are at 750 - 850 rpm ... I have both case sides open and can't hear a thing with front fans less than 15 inches from my left ear. Ambient is 21.8C .... so I'm seeing a delta T of 10C at 1000 rpm and and 13C at 750ish

So that should answer ya push / only question ....

As for fit ....I went with the XT45 cause I thought it would be too close to call....I posted some pics many many pages back of the wider UT60-280 / XT45-420 in place....sure I can dig up again. It wud have fit in push / pull but just by 2 mm or so with the M6F.....dunno about your board.....but the M6F has a huge heatsink ..... look at Jesse's pics also (he put in both 140 and 120mm wides so ya can compare) .....access to ya 8 pin EPS cable may be an issue




the right side of the fan under that rad would miss the heat sink by about 2mm

Just bumped up fan speed to 1100 and here's what I am seeing....

Pump => UT60x280 Rad In (31.4C) => Rad Out (30.4C) => 780s in SLI Parallel Loop WBs => XT45 Rad In (32.7C) => Rad Out (31.6C) => CPU WB => Res => Pump

I can hear the fans tho....GFX (32% OC = 1175 Core / 1227 Boost / 7524 mem) at 39C and CPU (4.6 Ghz) at 38C ....

EDIT: While I was typing this was playing with fan speeds.... setting it up to give me 10C (out of 2nd rad) under Furmark at about 940 rpm it looks like... Ambient = 21.3 last rad out = 31.3 ..... 39C on GFX and CPU


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

You're running a 420 which is a 140-series rad though Jack which has 10mm less offset than the 360 rad that 47 Knucklehead is wanting to fit, so your clearance issues & pictures and such don't really apply.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Well that was really where I wanted to go I shuda made it clearer ........if the M6F fits with the extra 10mm width .... he shud be pretty safe with almost anything.


----------



## 47 Knucklehead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> There's 70mm of space from the top of the mobo to the top of the case, and roughly ~54mm of offset from the mobo with 120-series rads (240, 360, 480) so unless you have something on your mobo near the top that's taller than ~50mm it's possible to put a 60mm or even an 80mm thick rad in push/pull even if you were so inclined but a monsta in push pull would overhang the top 35mm of the mobo.
> 
> If you do have anything on your mobo taller than ~50mm then you would need to go with a 45mm thick rad in push pull.
> 
> Here's a repost of a recent similar discussion that you may find helpful.


Awesome, thanks for the post. I started at post one and have been going through all the posts, but I must have missed that.

It's going to be close.

The heatsink on the UP7 will clear no problem. The issue will be my TridentX memory WITH the heat spreaders. I took a measurement and from the bottom side of the motherboard to the top of the heat spreaders, it is 60mm. If I remove the spreader, then it should just barely fit under the 54mm mark. Now the edge of the TridentX's are about 13-15mm down from edge of the top of the motherboard, so MAYBE that will be enough.

Going to be tight. Of course, it was tight in the Switch 810 too.











(Shoe-horned in.)



(The before.)


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Notes on ambient air sensor locations\fom previous discussion:

Sensor Pointing down thru bottom of case thru grille holes = 21.2C
Sensor Pointing thru front of case holes next to fans = 21.0C
Sensor laying on top of case at front = 21.4C
Sensor inside fan mounting area at top = 24.6C
Sensor laying on table 2" in front of front fans = 20.8
Sensor hannging down below desk near floor = 17.9C
Sensor Pointing down thru bottom oif case thru grille holes = 21.2C


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> Notes on ambient air sensor locations\fom previous discussion:
> 
> Sensor Pointing down thru bottom of case thru grille holes = 21.2C
> Sensor Pointing thru front of case holes next to fans = 21.0C
> Sensor laying on top of case at front = 21.4C
> Sensor inside fan mounting area at top = 24.6C
> Sensor laying on table 2" in front of front fans = 20.8
> Sensor hannging down below desk near floor = 17.9C
> Sensor Pointing down thru bottom oif case thru grille holes = 21.2C


3.6c increase. Nice!

What is the temp inside of closed case?


----------



## Terminus14

Just thought I'd let you guys know that Newegg just dropped the Enthoo down to $204 w/free shipping. $184 with a $20 mail in rebate. Could be interesting for anyone who has yet to make their membership here official.

Like me.
Ordering right now.


----------



## doyll

Congrats Terminus14 ! That's a super deal!


----------



## 47 Knucklehead

Yup, here is the link ... Phanteks Phanteks Enthoo Series Primo Aluminum PH-ES813P_BL Black w/ Blue LED Aluminum faceplates / Steel chassis ATX Full Tower Computer Case - $204.99 + Free Shipping + $20.00 Mail In Rebate ... $184.99 TOTAL.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quick question guys. I am debating if I use a dual ek top with two d5 pwm on the 5.25" drive bays (or alternatively at the floor with the support provided) or if I use two single tops and the same d5 pumps at different point in the loop (for example one pump befor the cpu and another after the VGAs... One of the things entering into this equation is whether or not dual EK top can be placed at the floor in the pump mount thing Phanteks provide us. I suppose it won´t fit, anyone have the holes spacing from the top of their heads?

Cheers

EDIT- nevermind the dimensions...I found on the manual. What about flow, would make any difference dual top or 2x single tops at different points in the loop? I think it does not make any difference but I would like to hear opinions on it.


----------



## 47 Knucklehead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> EDIT- nevermind the dimensions...I found on the manual. What about flow, would make any difference dual top or 2x single tops at different points in the loop? I think it does not make any difference but I would like to hear opinions on it.


Won't matter on a build that small (ie inside a case). Now if you were going to have an external radiator down a level (say in your basement where it's cool), then I'd say it might make a difference, but anything you could cram into a case ... na.


----------



## bond32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *47 Knucklehead*
> 
> Awesome, thanks for the post. I started at post one and have been going through all the posts, but I must have missed that.
> 
> It's going to be close.
> 
> The heatsink on the UP7 will clear no problem. The issue will be my TridentX memory WITH the heat spreaders. I took a measurement and from the bottom side of the motherboard to the top of the heat spreaders, it is 60mm. If I remove the spreader, then it should just barely fit under the 54mm mark. Now the edge of the TridentX's are about 13-15mm down from edge of the top of the motherboard, so MAYBE that will be enough.
> 
> Going to be tight. Of course, it was tight in the Switch 810 too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (Shoe-horned in.)
> 
> 
> 
> (The before.)


Did you paint those heat spreaders on your TridentX? What paint did you use?


----------



## 47 Knucklehead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> Did you paint those heat spreaders on your TridentX? What paint did you use?


Yes.

Good old Home Depot spray paint. "Painters Touch" is the brand name.

I took them off the memory, scuffed them up with some sand paper to give the paint something to bite into, cleaned any hand oil off with alcohol, then applied 2 VERY LIGHT coats of paint on them.

I've done the same thing on the blue heat sinks on the GA-Z77Z-UD3H motherboard too. I did them in black to make them blend in (in the Switched Switch build log).


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> 3.6c increase. Nice!
> 
> What is the temp inside of closed case?


No that's simply moving the single ambient air sensor around from different locations ....I had asked for suggestions few pages back.

I have:

Top Rad In
Top Rad Out
Bottom Rad In
Bottom Rad Out

Have 2 channels left on Six Eyes, so was gonna measure Ambient Air and Case Air, Leaning towards the bottom location....only 0.2 above lowest temp and easiest to mount. Case air will go under rear fan. Case temps, ni isea....both sidepanels still off







.... haven't started sleeving yet ..... fingers need a break aftrer all those knurled fittings









BTW, did final tube adjustments and filled loop with coolant ....still crappy phone pics tho



Temps still at 75 with Mayems tho was like 2 am last nite when I tested w/ DW (heat goes down to 55 F at 10pm) like 75 now....


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Terminus14*
> 
> Just thought I'd let you guys know that Newegg just dropped the Enthoo down to $204 w/free shipping. $184 with a $20 mail in rebate. Could be interesting for anyone who has yet to make their membership here official.
> 
> Like me.
> Ordering right now.


Also, if ya order by mobile phone .......

10 HOURS ONLY!!
5% OFF YOUR ENTIRE PURCHASE!*
Enter promo code
MBLBF52
at checkout

takes it down to $175

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Quick question guys. I am debating if I use a dual ek top with two d5 pwm on the 5.25" drive bays (or alternatively at the floor with the support provided) or if I use two single tops and the same d5 pumps at different point in the loop (for example one pump befor the cpu and another after the VGAs... One of the things entering into this equation is whether or not dual EK top can be placed at the floor in the pump mount thing Phanteks provide us. I suppose it won´t fit, anyone have the holes spacing from the top of their heads?
> 
> Cheers
> 
> EDIT- nevermind the dimensions...I found on the manual. What about flow, would make any difference dual top or 2x single tops at different points in the loop? I think it does not make any difference but I would like to hear opinions on it.


I was gonna go with twin D5s on a Bay Res but the got scared off those with the vibration and leaks stories......so decided on a tube res (results above) and then after much flip flopping in the end went with the 35x2 ..... cost wasn't much different .....

But, no.....the pumps don't know where the are but always best to have them at low points to avoid mishaps and ease loop start up efforts..


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> Also, if ya order by mobile phone .......
> 
> 10 HOURS ONLY!!
> 5% OFF YOUR ENTIRE PURCHASE!*
> Enter promo code
> MBLBF52
> at checkout
> 
> takes it down to $175
> [...]


FYI, that mobile 5% off cannot be used with any other discount/promotion. You won't be able to use it on the discounted Enthoo Primo. I did use the 5% off to get $30 off a 4930K though.
Quote:


> Promo codes may only be used once per account and cannot be combined with other promo codes, combo discounts or promotions.


----------



## Roxycon

Thankfully it looks a lot better than both those cases, haha


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> FYI, that mobile 5% off cannot be used with any other discount/promotion. You won't be able to use it on the discounted Enthoo Primo. I did use the 5% off to get $30 off a 4930K though.


That's correct....But there's no "promo" tho on the Enthoo.....just a discount

Just put it n my cart...applied the code and got $10.25 off ...... total is $194.74 before $20 rebate + shipping

Sitting in my cart right now with the discount subtracted.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

I've had the promo discount removed from my order before after it was placed at Newegg when I had an already discounted item in there. They literally cancelled my order until they got a reply from me about them removing my promo discount and agreeing/disgreeing with the new charges. But, I guess if that new lower price isn't temporary or related to Black Friday then it might stand I suppose.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Ouchies .... that's not been my experience..... I gotta buy $30k a year from newegg so have lotta experience... not for me .... but for neighborhood kids, clients, etc

bought the 1st 780 after the nVidia promo .... wouldn't let me use the mobile 5% promo
bought the 2nd 780 after the nVidia promo .... wouldn't let me use the mobile 5% promo

Doing XMas shopping got turned down last night can't use a "coupon code" on manufacturer sponsored deal with a % off discount".... For me they always tells ya when ya can't use at order time on the mobile promotions ... later on same night bought some Logitech speakers .... heavily discounted (not a promo) $100 .... used the mobile 5% promo, shipped this morning,

Bought 6 Corsair 500Rs in last 4 months .... every other week either the white or black ones is $20 discounted below the other.....all 6 times, bought the lower priced one and used a promo code with it, no problems on any one of them

Basically, what I have found is, if it's in an email or ya see + $10 off with promo code 1128BFF5, ends 12/1 on the page, that can't be combined with anything.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> No that's simply moving the single ambient air sensor around from different locations ....I had asked for suggestions few pages back.
> 
> I have:
> 
> Top Rad In
> Top Rad Out
> Bottom Rad In
> Bottom Rad Out
> 
> Have 2 channels left on Six Eyes, so was gonna measure Ambient Air and Case Air, Leaning towards the bottom location....only 0.2 above lowest temp and easiest to mount. Case air will go under rear fan. Case temps, ni isea....both sidepanels still off
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .... haven't started sleeving yet ..... fingers need a break aftrer all those knurled fittings
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> BTW, did final tube adjustments and filled loop with coolant ....still crappy phone pics tho
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Temps still at 75 with Mayems tho was like 2 am last nite when I tested w/ DW (heat goes down to 55 F at 10pm) like 75 now....


Got it.. No wonder the temps on top are higher. What it the object of temperature readings at different locations without having the side covers on? Airflow in and round case will be very different with side covers installed.

Looking really nice!

Bottom sounds good. Was just curious what case temps are.


----------



## ADragg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> OK, it's 4 am ..... I got all my OCs done before midnite ....and been working on fans / pump speeds.
> 
> At the start of the day, all my fans ran at about 1050 rpm and min pump speed was over 3000 rpm.. .... nothing i did in the BIOS would change that. So I tired FanXpert2 and had no luck there either........ so i tried running the "Fan Tuning" Feature and low and behold I got the pump to run at 1400 rpm ..... however it would recognize that fans existed.
> 
> So I tried tuning it w/ just one fan connected and that seemed to work..... but as soon as I connected them all back up.... we were at 1232 rpm..... couldn't make it go away, even uninstalled AiSuite. After 3.5 hours of troubleshooting .... here's what i discovered..... I can connect 7 fans to that PCB thingie (5 rads, 2 front and 1 rear) and I get PWM control..... as long as the 12V power is disconnected. As soon as I connect the 12V power..... all fans go to full speed.
> 
> Can anyone confirm or is this just me.


Did you ever figure anything out about this? I'm still running all of my fans off a regular fan header, so they're at full blast but with one of those extenders that adds resistance and cuts the power in half or so, because whatever was keeping my fans nice and quiet while the fan hub was plugged into CPU OPT got screwed up because I tried to make an "optimized" automatic profile with Fan Xpert. All it did was make it so they didn't work at all. The LED's on the front fans would be on but flickered very slightly, so I'm guessing the profile that stupid Fan Xpert made is just giving them a tiny bit of power (or something). I tried uninstalling the 3way Optimization portion of AI Suite III (which is where Fan Xpert resides), I tried downloading SpeedFan to hopefully take over and override the screwed up profile, and other things, but something is still applied and keeping my fans from working when plugged into the CPU OPT header, which was working great until I messed with Fan Xpert. Honestly not even sure what was applying a profile to that header to begin with, whether it was AI Suite or something else, but it made my fans nice and quiet.

I just gave up and plugged into a header that gives me full power and cut the power to some of the fans manually with those resistor cables, but it's still a bit loud. I just did this until I get something like the Six Eyes or a Lamptron, but it would be nice if I could get it working again. I'm not sure why there's still a screwed up profile on there holding them back when plugged into CPU OPT, since I uninstalled Fan Xpert (by uninstalled the 3-way Optimization thing, since I prefer to overclock thru the BIOS anyway). Also, the fans DO run nice and quiet when I'm in the BIOS, but as soon as I boot to the logon screen, they turn off because obviously the screwed up profile becomes effective. Not sure how to get rid of whatever is holding them back, or fix it.

Anyway, how do you like the Six Eyes? You can't use it to control your pump, right (still not sure if I want a variable pump for my build, or if I want the hassle/benefit of PWM pump)? I'm trying to determine what is the the best fan controller to get in that price range. I don't know if there's a Lamptron that would be better in that price range or what, so I'll need to look into it more, but would like your opinion on it. BTW, your build looks great!

I intend to place my order in the next day or two so I can get Frozen CPU's 9% discount and maybe get this build close to $800. Although I'm going to have to order a couple things elsewhere, because the UT60 280 rad is out of stock, for one thing. Possibly the CPU block as well. I think the CSQ frosted acrylic EK Supremacy is still in stock, but the clean/clear version is out of stock and that's the one that would match my GTX 780 water block. Though I do like the frosted acrylic and the CSQ design.


----------



## jassilamba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> No that's simply moving the single ambient air sensor around from different locations ....I had asked for suggestions few pages back.
> 
> I have:
> 
> Top Rad In
> Top Rad Out
> Bottom Rad In
> Bottom Rad Out
> 
> Have 2 channels left on Six Eyes, so was gonna measure Ambient Air and Case Air, Leaning towards the bottom location....only 0.2 above lowest temp and easiest to mount. Case air will go under rear fan. Case temps, ni isea....both sidepanels still off
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .... haven't started sleeving yet ..... fingers need a break aftrer all those knurled fittings
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> BTW, did final tube adjustments and filled loop with coolant ....still crappy phone pics tho
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Temps still at 75 with Mayems tho was like 2 am last nite when I tested w/ DW (heat goes down to 55 F at 10pm) like 75 now....


Looking really really good there mate.

That honestly came out really good. Love it.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Got it.. No wonder the temps on top are higher. What it the object of temperature readings at different locations without having the side covers on? Airflow in and round case will be very different with side covers installed.
> 
> Looking really nice!
> 
> Bottom sounds good. Was just curious what case temps are.


Ambient air in the room will not change with side panels on....this is NOT a case temp sensor it's an ambient air sensor. Tho since not actually installed just moving it around can do what ya want just by changing location. It was placed at various locations where it was measuring air temps INTO *not* INSIDE the case.

For example with the sensor poking thru a hole in the bottom of the case, the ass end of the sensor is inside the case but the temp measuring part is outside the case with the inlet fans sucking air in and going right by it before it gets to the rads

As for the side panels.....

Right side ..... I haven't done my sleeving yet and it's a bird nest of wires ....can't put right side on as with the two fans there, they'd eat my wires.
Left side.... I just finished the "plumbing part" of the build yesterday and was still shifting and tweaking things.

Have left panel on now (done w/ that side) and right panel is "leaning" in place....effectively "closed up" .... 1/2 gap between case and panel on right side at bottom

But they certainly gonna be below 30C under stress testing given the water temps. Right now it's sitting on back of 5.25" drive bay and readings are

Top Rad Water InTop Rad In = 24.6
Top Rad Water Out = 24.3

Bot Rad Water In = 24.4
Bot Rad Water Out = 24.0

Case Temp = 24.2

Next order will have a case temp sensor in it.....waiting till I need more stuff as shipping would be close to the cost of a new sensor.

*NEW DISCOVERIES:*

1. if anyone is "hardlining" (rigid acrylic tube) their build ....

The red, short, plastic one w/ tiny blades is the one sold by on line water cooling shops for $9.99 = Shipping
The gray, steel one with beefy blades is the one sold by Home Depot for $10.72 + ya gas

Why's I get two ? I ordered the red one, but since they didn't pull the order till day I was picking up, it accidentally got sold. It arrived same day I did final fill of loop but tube work was done 4 days earlier. Went to Home Depot so i could get started. Both will work but it's like K-Mart versus Snap On.

2. Remember the Reeven discussion ? Few wondered if ya could close door with the front knobs which became moot when I found out buttons push in to be flush when not being turned..... well accidentally left them "out" in full functioning "knobby status" yesterday and closed door..... door still closes.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jassilamba*
> 
> Looking really really good there mate.
> 
> That honestly came out really good. Love it.


Muchos Grassyass .... sorry but my camera wasn't able to pick up the 3 paragraph dedication speech I had inscribed on that pump base ya sent me.... so have something comin back to ya.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ADragg*
> 
> Did you ever figure anything out about this? I'm still running all of my fans off a regular fan header, so they're at full blast but with ........


OK..... here's what I found out ....

1. Phanteks hub (CHA_1) gave me constant 1050ish fan speed no matter what I did anywhere in BIOS.

2. Pump Speed on CPU / CPU Opt headers gave me speed adjustment from like 3500 - 4500 no matter what i did in the BUIOS

After running FanXpert2 profiler

1. Phanteks fans were like 1150 rpm no matter what i did....So I'll outsmart that SoB and put it on CHA_2 which was not optimized.... no change.
2. I now had full functional use of pump speeds.... not all the way down to 1250 but was down to 2100 last nite....just looked now and it's at 2700 and dropping ....
3. Unplug the 12V feed to the PCB and I got full control of the Phanteks fans.....running about 600 rpm now ....as soon as I plug it back in they go to full speed.
4. Did it again this while typing this and it got even better

Here's what I'd suggest .....

1. Check ya fan load..... I have the following fans plugged in

a. (3) push fans top rad
b. (2) push fans bot rad
c. (2) pull fans case front
d. (1) pull fan case rear

don't know what protections this PCB provides to MoBo header so stopped at 8 fans

2. Unplug the 12v lead to PCB

3. Run Fan Expert2 .... when I was done .... none of my case fans were spinning and pump was at 1300 rom

4. Apparently Fan Expert decided I didn't need chassis fans below 40C so it had them starting at 40C. So I clocked on the graph and did the following:

a. It decided that my fans shut off at 30% so it set min speed at 32C once it was over 40C .... so I dragged low operating point (blue ball) to 32% at 20C.
b. I dragged the hi operating point 90% at 70C (after that, it's 100).
c. I dragged the middle one to 60% at 45C

Sitting here browsing at 28C on CPU and fan speed = a wonderfully silent 575

5. I didn't understand what it did with the pump this time.... basically it set it at 13% at 40C, 13% at 60C and 100% at 75C

Looking at the Swiftech 35x2 fan curve at 0 - 13% PWM it does 1300 rpm and from 75 - 100% PWM it does 100%. So I accessed the graph and made it

a. Low Point to 20% PWM at 20C
b. High Point to 74% PWM at 70c
c. Mid point to 30% PWM @ 50C so as to not ram it up as quickly at low end as high.

After ya uninstall AiSuite, check ya services.... (services.msc) and see if ya have Asus fan Control Service .... stop it if so.

I'm really, really happy with FanXpert2 after the above .... it's counter intuitive in some respects as raising the middle point raises everything before that point. But at least in my case , plugging the 12V in to the PCB sets all fans to 12v ... try unplugging it and see what happens.

I didn't use the 4 way optimization ....was gonna try it but my OC was cake ...

a. Change AI Overclocker to:

Manual
XMP
Adaptive
46 muliplier

Got real lucky I guess, didn't have to touch rung voltage, uncore nuthin....everything else at default.

I'm not using the Six Eyes for Fan Control .... just monitoring at this point. Tho as ya may have seen above.... the door can be closed w/ buttons in out position.

I was so glad I got the acrylic topped copper block. After thoroughly flushing every component, I looked at the CPU block to see if was any bubbles..... saw black flakes..... dunno if it was from pump or I'm thinking paint fleks from screwing fittings on and off. But w/o that clear block, that gunk wud still be in there.

Where next .....

*Likely scenario.....*

1. Pump on CPU / CPU_OPT very happy
2. CHA 1 on Top Rad Fans w/ Phanteks PCB *
3. CHA 2 on Bottom Rad Fans w/ 2nd Phanteks PCB (come January) *
4. CHA 3 on Case Fans w/ 3rd Phanteks PCB (come January)

At this point with a delta T of 10C with 21C air and 31C max water under stress test, I really can't see a reason to spend $100 add the pull fans.

*Option 1*

As above but with OPT_1 thru 3 using temp sensors.....anyone know if ya can split thermistor leads and send signal to both MoBo and Temp Display in Six Eyes ?

Option 3

Same as 2 but with Six Eyes .... maybe shud read manual


----------



## jassilamba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> Muchos Grassyass .... sorry but my camera wasn't able to pick up the 3 paragraph dedication speech I had inscribed on that pump base ya sent me.... so have something comin back to ya.


You sir are too kind. But please you do not have to make it even.

Anyways I updated the front LED mod DIY with some basic tips and pics for replacing the LED in the power switch.

http://themodzoo.com/forum/index.php?/topic/883-enthoo-primo-front-led-color-change/


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Got it.. No wonder the temps on top are higher. What it the object of temperature readings at different locations without having the side covers on? Airflow in and round case will be very different with side covers installed.
> 
> Looking really nice!
> 
> Bottom sounds good. Was just curious what case temps are.
> 
> 
> 
> Ambient air in the room will not change with side panels on....this is NOT a case temp sensor it's an ambient air sensor. Tho since not actually installed just moving it around can do what ya want just by changing location. It was placed at various locations where it was measuring air temps INTO *not* INSIDE the case.
> 
> Top Rad Water InTop Rad In = 24.6
> Top Rad Water Out = 24.3
> 
> Bot Rad Water In = 24.4
> Bot Rad Water Out = 24.0
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by JackNaylorPE View Post
> 
> Notes on ambient air sensor locations\fom previous discussion:
> 
> Sensor Pointing down thru bottom of case thru grille holes = 21.2C
> Sensor Pointing thru front of case holes next to fans = 21.0C
> Sensor laying on top of case at front = 21.4C
> Sensor inside fan mounting area at top = 24.6C
> Sensor laying on table 2" in front of front fans = 20.8
> Sensor hannging down below desk near floor = 17.9C
> Sensor Pointing down thru bottom oif case thru grille holes = 21.2C
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Case Temp = 24.2
Click to expand...

All room temps are all about 21c.. except on floor (18c) and on top of case (24.6). I'm assuming the reason the is with no sides on case and both bottom and top radiators pulling air in (resulting in higher air temp) that the air being drawn into top of case is being warmed by the heated air coming out of the open sides.

Only an educated guess but why else would the air directly on top of case be so 3+c warmer than anywhere else around outside of case?


----------



## 47 Knucklehead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jassilamba*
> 
> Anyways I updated the front LED mod DIY with some basic tips and pics for replacing the LED in the power switch.
> 
> http://themodzoo.com/forum/index.php?/topic/883-enthoo-primo-front-led-color-change/


Awesome!









I will definitely be doing that mod on my case.


----------



## Terminus14

So who here has put the Enthoo's stock fans on some radiators? If anyone, how have they performed? Using three of those for my top rad would save me about 70 bucks worth of fans.


----------



## jassilamba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *47 Knucklehead*
> 
> Question about your drawing (and this case in particular).
> 
> From what I'm reading, it doesn't appear that I will be able to put an XSPC RX360 60mm radiator with "push/pull" fans up top and have it not hit my GA-Z77Z-UP7 motherboard. I rant into no amount of issues with trying to cram that into my Switch 810 case, and ended up taking a grinder to the case to finally shoe-horn it in. If this isn't the case here (and I hope I can just put an RX360 in "push/pull" in this case), what are your thoughts about just doing push on the RX360?
> 
> According to your drawing, you are sucking cool air in from the top, pushing it through the radiator, and dumping it INSIDE the case. I've always tried to avoid this. Do you think it will be a major issue? Or should I just get a 45mm 360 radiator and go "push/pull" up to and have the air blow out the top?
> 
> Thanks for any input.


Well there is no scope for grinding any thing on this case like you did the with 810. Since you already have the 360 rad, I would suggest that you try and fit and see if you can get by just grinding the fan shroud. if that does not work, I would suggest get a XT 480 (45mm) one and put that sucker up top.

Regarding drawing air in, I like to provide outside fresh air to my rads, compared to warm inside air. Personally I don't think it will make a huge difference with how you setup your fans.

Also you get major heat dissipation when you go from 1 size rad to another (example 120 to 240), when it comes to gains with thickness, I say those are not worth the headache to get a fat rad in. Now I know you, and I would expect a surprise from you, knowing your past builds.


----------



## 47 Knucklehead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jassilamba*
> 
> Well there is no scope for grinding any thing on this case like you did the with 810. Since you already have the 360 rad, I would suggest that you try and fit and see if you can get by just grinding the fan shroud. if that does not work, I would suggest get a XT 480 (45mm) one and put that sucker up top.
> 
> Regarding drawing air in, I like to provide outside fresh air to my rads, compared to warm inside air. Personally I don't think it will make a huge difference with how you setup your fans.
> 
> Also you get major heat dissipation when you go from 1 size rad to another (example 120 to 240), when it comes to gains with thickness, I say those are not worth the headache to get a fat rad in. Now I know you, and I would expect a surprise from you, knowing your past builds.


Thanks for the reply.

I'll try to get the RX360 in up top first to be sure. If it fits, then great, that will save me on buying a 480 radiator and painting it and 2 more fans, but if that RX360 doesn't fit, I will most likely see about putting the RX360 down below (or maybe just save space and put the RX240 there) and getting the 480 then.

If I do go with the 45mm 480 radiator, it's most likely be the EX480 ... mainly because I can get them for $79.99 and would paint it orange.







I'd hate to spend $105 on an Alphacool or $147 for a Black Ice, just for the extra ports and paint that nice looking finish.









And surprisingly, no, I don't disagree with you on the size (length) vs thickness point. I'd much rather go with a larger (not thicker) radiator than a thicker one. The added fans on a longer radiator do much more to keep things cool than having all that hot water just sitting in the radiator. That is why the first thing to go was my Monsta 360 from my old build.

My only question will be is should I go with 8 fans on the RX360 45mm thick radiator or just 4?









Looking at Martins, they have chart that shows the heat dump of a EX360 with 3 push fans, and at 1200 RPM, it is about 160 watts.



He then goes on to say ...
Quote:


> The EX360 despite it's more dense physical appearance is as indicated as being tuned for slower speed fans where the lesser dense looking RS360 is slightly better for high speed fans. At extremely low speed fans the EX is getting really close to RX levels of performance, but the double thickness RX is superior at all RPM levels.


Now when I look at his review of the ES360 vs RX360 as far as heat dump goes, putting the RS360 in "push/pull" mode really does show a benefit at 1200 RPM ... going from about 160 watts to about 195 watts.



So that makes me wonder if I should put the 4 extra fans on a 480 EX480 and go "push/pull". What are your thoughts on this? Just go "push only" or go "push/pull"?

Regardless, I appreciate your input on drawing air cool air into the case through the rads then dumping it out the back vs just drawing cool air in the front and blowing it through the rads and out.


----------



## jassilamba

If there is enough space to do push pull I say go for it. So with a EX 480 you have enough space to do push pull. Best of all you can just add the fans later.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> All room temps are all about 21c.. except on floor (18c) and on top of case (24.6). I'm assuming the reason the is with no sides on case and both bottom and top radiators pulling air in (resulting in higher air temp) that the air being drawn into top of case is being warmed by the heated air coming out of the open sides.
> 
> Only an educated guess but why else would the air directly on top of case be so 3+c warmer than anywhere else around outside of case?


All if those locations were with the unit inside the case but with the sensor part poking thru a hole in it to the outside or directly in front of an intake fan .... so they were also getting a continuous air flow since they were at fan inlets .... fresh air was being pulled across them before entering the rads or the case front.

OTOH, the top of case and down by floor were in stagnant air zones with no air movement. No doubt the one sitting on top of case was affected by the top rad under it.

The key part in that regard is that after 10 pm the heat shuts off which takes the air circulation with it..... resulting in the natural floor to ceiling stratification (warmer at ceiling / colder at floor) ... when it hangs on the floor its also close to the cold tile floor which is above an unheated space. Right now with the heat on, we have heat coming outta the floor vents which rises to ceiling, pushes air across the ceilinga nd down on other side .... so a good mix.... until 10









Right now, using it as a case air temp sensor .....

Top Rad Water InTop Rad In = 25.3
Top Rad Water Out = 25.0

Bot Rad Water In = 25.1
Bot Rad Water Out = 24.8

Case Air = 24.9

That's with 2 front fans blowing in, 1 fan in rear blowing out....side fans not plugged in


----------



## 47 Knucklehead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> Right now, using it as a case air temp sensor .....
> 
> Top Rad Water InTop Rad In = 25.3
> Top Rad Water Out = 25.0
> 
> Bot Rad Water In = 25.1
> Bot Rad Water Out = 24.8
> 
> Case Air = 24.9
> 
> That's with 2 front fans blowing in, 1 fan in rear blowing out....side fans not plugged in


Yup, I did a ton of water temp testing awhile back with placing water temp sensors at various points in a triple radiator, dual GPU, and single CPU system (both inflow and outflow of each component) and realized that after about 20 minutes at load, it doesn't really matter the order of CPU, GPU, Radiator .. the water temps will all be within 1C of each other.

After that, I just went for logical tubing connections and not worrying about putting a radiator between each component trying to be cooled.


----------



## 47 Knucklehead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> I was gonna go with twin D5s on a Bay Res but the got scared off those with the vibration and leaks stories......so decided on a tube res (results above) and then after much flip flopping in the end went with the 35x2 ..... cost wasn't much different .....
> 
> But, no.....the pumps don't know where the are but always best to have them at low points to avoid mishaps and ease loop start up efforts..


I have one, and love it.

I did have a leak in my first one, but it was an "internal leak" and Performance PCs replaced it very fast. I've had it for a long time and love it. I'm debating if I want to use it in this build, or sell it and go with a tube for looks.

Vibration isn't an issue at all, and it's very quiet. I love the clear one from XSPC.

Here are 2 videos I shot of my problem I had with the first res ...










But after they replaced it (I actually still have the old one, they didn't make me return it), you can see it here in all its QUIET glory ...


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Terminus14*
> 
> So who here has put the Enthoo's stock fans on some radiators? If anyone, how have they performed? Using three of those for my top rad would save me about 70 bucks worth of fans.


Read up a few posts .... all my fans are Phanteks fans .... the 2 front and 1 rear I left where they were. The 1 top and 1 bottom I put on the sides.

The one thing ya can NOT do is mix the ones that come with the Enthoo with the ones ya buy separately. They are the exact same fan but Phanteks has since started using vibration isolation pads at the corners. So the ones in the case are 25mm thick and ones ya buy individually ate 27mm thick. Of course ya can take them off the boxed ones or add them to the case ones.

As for performance, read my last few posts .....

Here's my design

*Load Calcs*
4770k = 145 watts
MoBo Chipset = 20
MoBo VRMs = 20
GTX 780 = 289
GTX 780 = 289
Pump = 36

Watts799

Here's what I get from my Alphas according to Martins

XT45-420 = 256 watts at 1250 rpm
UT60-280 = 191 watts at 1250 rpm

That's 447 watts of rad cooling or 56% and I'm showing a delta T of 10C (31 water / 21 air) w/ two 780s at 32% OC and the 4770k at 4.6 GHz

I had planned push / pull which should get me to 508 watts (64%) but really don't see the need. I calculated the watts based upon martins reference fans but my assumption is these are much better

At 1800 rpm in push / pull I shud pull 719 watts of cooling or 90% of the theoretical need.

Also note that the Phanteks fans swept the field when tested on big air coolers which if anything place a harder demand on the fans due to their tighter fin spacing. last time SPCR tested the 120mm trounced the 140s .... this time the 140s took 4 of the top 5 spots besting the Noctuas, Gentle Typhoons and Corsair AF120. Oddly enuff in a following test, an Antec fan edged out the Phanteks by a hair.... but it had the PWM tick thing so pffft for that.

http://www.silentpcreview.com/article1345-page4.html


Quote:


> In our last 120 mm fan roundup we lamented the fact that many of the best sounding fans faltered in our thermal test, posing our readership with a vexing question: Which is more important, acoustics or cooling performance? For this first batch of 140 mm fans, there is no such dilemma.
> 
> The Phanteks PH-F140HP/TS is the clear winner in every respect. It edged out the new Noctuas every step of the way, delivering the best overall results of any fan we've tested thus far. To top it off, it had cleanest, smoothest sound of all the new fans in this roundup. If we had to start from scratch, this might be our new reference model.


Another review over at HighTech legion gave it the Editor's Choice...

http://www.hitechlegion.com/reviews/cooling/heatsinks/37419-phanteks-f140?showall=&start=3

Quote:


> It often feels like Phanteks can do no wrong. Time after time, they deliver products that are either clearly top of their class, or merely arguably the top of their class. The new breed of fans, the 140XP and SP, do nothing to change that. Construction and performance are spot on, while noise to air movement is excellent. I have been fortunate enough to have been using seven of these in a build for the last month, and time has done nothing but make me like them more.
> 
> As case fans, the 140SP and 140XP are very controlled, and able to move excellent amounts of air through the case. This would be expected given the specs, but what is not expected is how quietly they manage to do this. First off, there is *no discernible mechanical noise* from either iteration of the fan. *The bearing is dead silent, and there is no ticking, buzz or hum often associated with PWM present in the 140XP. The other factor is the actual pitch of the fan, which is lower than most 140mm fans we have encountered. There is no whine or high pitches of any kind. This makes the 140SP and XP far less intrusive even at higher speeds.* At lower speeds, the air movement is substantial, but even in the front intake position there is no real discernible noise until ~850rpm, and they never become distracting when pushed beyond that.
> 
> While the fans are essentially the same with PWM added to the F140XP, that also adds some perks. The PWM control allows the F140XP to be run all the way down to 300rpm for absolute silence. The lower speeds also allow the static pressure to increase ~15%, making them an excellent choice for 140mm factor radiators. *The 140SP serves very, very well on radiators also with good static pressure and low noise*.


I was hesitant to go 'all in" with the 1200 rpm fans so I pulled the top and bottom ones out and put them in the sides..... then I bought 3 LED ones for the top rad and 2 plain ones for the bottom rad to see how they did...... if they didn't perform as I had hoped, I'd use them as case fans in another build.....and buy 10 1800 rpm jobs..... if they did, then 5 more Phanteks.... But again, I'm cooling twin 780s w/ 32% OC and a 4770k at 4.6 Ghz and can't get water temps over 31C. I think I'll save meself $100 as pull fans seem redundant.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *47 Knucklehead*
> 
> Yup, I did a ton of water temp testing awhile back with placing water temp sensors at various points in a triple radiator, dual GPU, and single CPU system (both inflow and outflow of each component) and realized that after about 20 minutes at load, it doesn't really matter the order of CPU, GPU, Radiator .. the water temps will all be within 1C of each other.
> 
> After that, I just went for logical tubing connections and not worrying about putting a radiator between each component trying to be cooled.


I'm using mine to determine the effect of fan speed on loop temps so I can dial everything down to the lowest setting .... Ya always have that kinda break point where if ya go past that performance starts to go in the toilet. Finally, the build had a very "industrial" focus and the temp indicators were my way of sneaking a little *GB* in there


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



GB = Geek Bling



As for the leaks, there's been some press of late (i.e. linus) about seam failures and possible relation to ethylene glycol effect on glue used. I think the vibration thing is tied as much to the quality of the case as the quality of the res / pump combo.


----------



## COMBO2

Argh, the wait for this case is killing me! I have everything else, 780 Ti, waterblocks, res, pumps, everything!! Just waiting on the case now









11 more days...


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Geez man ..... someone bringing ya the case by foot ?


----------



## Scorpion49

Well, I finally built my loop today in this thing. It was not the best time, and I am not particularly happy with this case. My UT60 did not want to fit in the bottom at all, although I eventually got it in there. Then I discovered that the screws that Alphacool uses fit nicely though the holes and channels on the case, so I had to use washers on them. Since I had to use washers on them, some of the screws could not be used as they got in the way of the bottom pedestal, and also I can not put the top fan cover or the bottom dust filters in because of this. Makes me wish I got the 900D instead. Overall this was not a fun experience, combined with my Alphacool CPU block having a machining problem that caused a massive leak so I had to take everything apart again.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

I have the UT60-280 ....went in and fit like a glove. If Jesse can get a 480 Monsta in there w/o any trouble, dunno why you would have trouble w/ something 26mm thinner . Maybe there was a way of getting it in smoothly that ya just didn't think of .... see video in post 9

http://www.overclock.net/t/1418637/phanteks-enthoo-primo-owners-club

What size were you using....if bigger than 280, ya not supposed to use the bottom bracket as a mount....and then there are no screws to the case. It just sits there .... screws go from fan into rad, bracket not needed.

The only time you are going to have a radiator screw issue id with a 240 or 280 rad.... I used two washers and Again, I have the UT60 on the bottom and I can't fathom the difficulties you are having.


----------



## COMBO2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> Geez man ..... someone bringing ya the case by foot ?


Nah haha, stock comes in on the 12th sadly.

Oh well, might be ghetto wc loop time


----------



## Scorpion49

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> I have the UT60-280 ....went in and fit like a glove. If Jesse can get a 480 Monsta in there w/o any trouble, dunno why you would have trouble w/ something 26mm thinner . Maybe there was a way of getting it in smoothly that ya just didn't think of .... see video in post 9
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1418637/phanteks-enthoo-primo-owners-club
> 
> What size were you using....if bigger than 280, ya not supposed to use the bottom bracket as a mount....and then there are no screws to the case. It just sits there .... screws go from fan into rad, bracket not needed.
> 
> The only time you are going to have a radiator screw issue id with a 240 or 280 rad.... I used two washers and Again, I have the UT60 on the bottom and I can't fathom the difficulties you are having.


It was the width, and its a 360mm. Maybe my case is tweaked because the back was bent too. I had to slightly bend the panel that holds up the drive bay to get it in there and its right up against the PSU shroud with the rubber grommets out.

Anyway, here is a potato picture of the semi-final result. Still need a few more parts for it to be done.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scorpion49*
> 
> Well, I finally built my loop today in this thing. It was not the best time, and I am not particularly happy with this case. My UT60 did not want to fit in the bottom at all, although I eventually got it in there. Then I discovered that the screws that Alphacool uses fit nicely though the holes and channels on the case, so I had to use washers on them. Since I had to use washers on them, some of the screws could not be used as they got in the way of the bottom pedestal, and also I can not put the top fan cover or the bottom dust filters in because of this. Makes me wish I got the 900D instead. Overall this was not a fun experience, combined with my Alphacool CPU block having a machining problem that caused a massive leak so I had to take everything apart again.


Yeah it's definitely a snug fit, but my 360 monsta in push-pull slid right in the bottom without a fight. I also have mine in there with the ports towards the front of the case, and I slid it in there first with all the bottom fans screwed just to the rad, and looking at it from the bottom, I just picked out 3 screws I wanted to use to mount it, and left the rest of the screws holding just the fans to the rad and put just 3 of the longer screws that came with the Alphacool rad through the bottom of the case. I used thin plastic washers and they didn't interfere with sliding my dust filters in/out.


----------



## InfiniteImp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *COMBO2*
> 
> Argh, the wait for this case is killing me! I have everything else, 780 Ti, waterblocks, res, pumps, everything!! Just waiting on the case now


Which water blocks did you go with for the 780 Tis. I have the same cards and I want to use PCIe slots 1 and 3 and in this scenario the water block needs to either be partial or a really low profile full cover block to fit within the indentation provided on the Enthoo reservoir mount. I'm curious if you took that into account or if you're planning on a PCIe 1&2 installation.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

I'm kinda lost now....

1. With the 360, you don't use the Res mounting bracket .... so what were your rad screws slipping thru ?

2. If your 360 is 120 wide and my 280 is 140 wide ..... That musta been one hell of a dent the UPS gorillas laid on you.....20mmm .... That's almost an inch (0.8")

Love the white rads BTW, now all ya need is the white EK Res to match


----------



## Scorpion49

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> I'm kinda lost now....
> 
> 1. With the 360, you don't use the Res mounting bracket .... so what were your rad screws slipping thru ?
> 
> 2. If your 360 is 120 wide and my 280 is 140 wide ..... That musta been one hell of a dent the UPS gorillas laid on you.....20mmm .... That's almost an inch (0.8")
> 
> Love the white rads BTW, now all ya need is the white EK Res to match


The screws fit through all mounting areas:










There are a few spots the bottom pedestal blocks screws, this might be solved by moving the rad one way or the other but by the time I found out I had cut all the tubing to length.










The rad is very snug in there, it scraped the paint off when I forced it down. As far as I know, the UT60 white is no different than the Monsta of regular UT60 as far as width (it is for 120mmfans).


----------



## jassilamba

I should mention, that I removed the rubber grommets in the lower area to make sure there was enough room for the rad. Also the trick is to get all the rads in before your mobo or anything else.

On the alphacools, I hate that too, and what i do is use 2 rad screws per fan, and then use 2 fan screws to hold up the fan to the chassis. makes it easy to install.


----------



## 47 Knucklehead

Good information to know.


----------



## COMBO2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InfiniteImp*
> 
> Which water blocks did you go with for the 780 Tis. I have the same cards and I want to use PCIe slots 1 and 3 and in this scenario the water block needs to either be partial or a really low profile full cover block to fit within the indentation provided on the Enthoo reservoir mount. I'm curious if you took that into account or if you're planning on a PCIe 1&2 installation.


I got the EK-FC780 GTX Ti waterblock, simply because it was the only one in stock for the next 2-3 weeks. I had thought about that res bracket, but I originally had an R9 so I wasn't expecting it to fit anyway.

I guess I'll see on the 12th


----------



## InfiniteImp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *COMBO2*
> 
> I got the EK-FC780 GTX Ti waterblock, simply because it was the only one in stock for the next 2-3 weeks. I had thought about that res bracket, but I originally had an R9 so I wasn't expecting it to fit anyway.
> 
> I guess I'll see on the 12th


The EVGA GTX 780 TI Superclocked which I bought actually fits fine in slots 1 and 2, it's slot 3 (the one I want to use so I can get x16/x16 out of the cards) which looks like it'll need a really thin water block. I'm pretty sure yours will fit fine with the Enthoo res mount in place but the full cover version of that water block (EK-FC780 GTX Ti - Acetal+Nickel) is the one I'm not sure about. It's a little confusing how EKFC names their blocks as they have both a full cover and partial cover block both referred to as EK-FC780 GTX Ti.


----------



## COMBO2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InfiniteImp*
> 
> The EVGA GTX 780 TI Superclocked which I bought actually fits fine in slots 1 and 2, it's slot 3 (the one I want to use so I can get x16/x16 out of the cards) which looks like it'll need a really thin water block. I'm pretty sure yours will fit fine with the Enthoo res mount in place but the full cover version of that water block (EK-FC780 GTX Ti - Acetal+Nickel) is the one I'm not sure about. It's a little confusing how EKFC names their blocks as they have both a full cover and partial cover block both referred to as EK-FC780 GTX Ti.


Oh haha. I've got the full cover block. It's fully acetal on the outside but the block itself is nickel.


----------



## InfiniteImp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *COMBO2*
> 
> Oh haha. I've got the full cover block. It's fully acetal on the outside but the block itself is nickel.


Ok, so same block I was looking at. From what I'm seeing, the advantage of the acetal portion is appearance. I don't see any cooling bebefits so likely I'll go for the shorter block which should allow me to fit that card into the Enthoo on the board's 3rd PCIe. Fingers crossed cause I really like that res mount - don't want to have to remove it.

For the next version of the Enthoo I would recommend that they move that video card indent portion of the res mount lower.. that would give people more flexibility because as it is now you can't run more than 2 high end video cards without liquid cooling them.


----------



## COMBO2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InfiniteImp*
> 
> Ok, so same block I was looking at. From what I'm seeing, the advantage of the acetal portion is appearance. I don't see any cooling bebefits so likely I'll go for the shorter block which should allow me to fit that card into the Enthoo on the board's 3rd PCIe. Fingers crossed cause I really like that res mount - don't want to have to remove it.
> 
> For the next version of the Enthoo I would recommend that they move that video card indent portion of the res mount lower.. that would give people more flexibility because as it is now you can't run more than 2 high end video cards without liquid cooling them.


Yeah, I guess that and the extra 3 games + performance are the benefits of having a whining R9 290X, a whining replacement 290X, and being forced to buy a GTX 780 Ti because it's your only other option then either a. getting your money back, or b. getting probably another card with whine. LOL.

Oh well, kind of glad I shelled out the extra $200. For the drivers + shadowplay I guess it'll be worth it, that is of course apart from performance alone!


----------



## 47 Knucklehead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InfiniteImp*
> 
> Ok, so same block I was looking at. From what I'm seeing, the advantage of the acetal portion is appearance. I don't see any cooling bebefits so likely I'll go for the shorter block which should allow me to fit that card into the Enthoo on the board's 3rd PCIe. Fingers crossed cause I really like that res mount - don't want to have to remove it.
> 
> For the next version of the Enthoo I would recommend that they move that video card indent portion of the res mount lower.. that would give people more flexibility because as it is now you can't run more than 2 high end video cards without liquid cooling them.


I don't have my case yet, but from the looks of it, its removable. If I can't fit my cards in, I will most likely fire up the saw and "make it fit". From what I've read, it's just aluminum and plastic. Shouldn't be hard to cut and then pull out a can of spray paint, or wrap it with some contact paper.

But I've also read (I think), that they plan on changing that. Maybe they can offer a retro kit for it.


----------



## InfiniteImp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *47 Knucklehead*
> 
> I don't have my case yet, but from the looks of it, its removable. If I can't fit my cards in, I will most likely fire up the saw and "make it fit". From what I've read, it's just aluminum and plastic. Shouldn't be hard to cut and then pull out a can of spray paint, or wrap it with some contact paper.
> 
> But I've also read (I think), that they plan on changing that. Maybe they can offer a retro kit for it.


I considered the dremel approach myself but I'd rather not mutilate the case unless absolutely necessary. I already made one modification but it's an easily hidden one (I moved the pump mount from the back to the front right below the res mount but I needed to orient it in a particular way which needed an extra hole drilled. Worked out well in the end but cutting into the res mount is way more in your face than I'd like.

It would be excellent if they would create a retrofit kit for it. I mean, in the end it would just mean sending people out a new res mount with the indent positioned lower.


----------



## unclejim

Hello all. My apologies if this has already been answered - I'm working my way gradually through this thread and am still at the early stages.

I'm planning on putting a 240mm rad in front and a 360mm in top, and was wondering whether it would be possible to mount the front rad direct to the chassis while leaving the 140mm fans in place. I know it's a bit unorthodox, but I'm considering my options in retaining as many of the stock fans as possible while purchasing a minimum of new 120mm ones. The reason I am considering this is to move the top 140 to the bottom, have 4x140 as intakes, 3x120 and 1x140 as exhaust and maintain good positive pressure.

Having not seen one of these cases in the flesh, so to speak, I'm not sure about the mounting holes or clearances to see if this is possible.

Thanks all.


----------



## COMBO2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *unclejim*
> 
> Hello all. My apologies if this has already been answered - I'm working my way gradually through this thread and am still at the early stages.
> 
> I'm planning on putting a 240mm rad in front and a 360mm in top, and was wondering whether it would be possible to mount the front rad direct to the chassis while leaving the 140mm fans in place. I know it's a bit unorthodox, but I'm considering my options in retaining as many of the stock fans as possible while purchasing a minimum of new 120mm ones. The reason I am considering this is to move the top 140 to the bottom, have 4x140 as intakes, 3x120 and 1x140 as exhaust and maintain good positive pressure.
> 
> Having not seen one of these cases in the flesh, so to speak, I'm not sure about the mounting holes or clearances to see if this is possible.
> 
> Thanks all.


You could do a pull config, with the fans sort of ghetto mounted onto the rad, but I wouldn't recommend it...


----------



## chrisnyc75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *47 Knucklehead*
> 
> its removable. If I can't fit my cards in, I will most likely fire up the saw and "make it fit". From what I've read, it's just aluminum and plastic. Shouldn't be hard to cut and then pull out a can of spray paint, or wrap it with some contact paper.


^^^^This.

It's unfortunate that Phanteks didn't realize that extra 1" clearance in that particular position would be so important to literally their entire exact demographic, but as far as flaws go it's rather easily remedied. I stressed about it for eons, then it took me approximately 10 minutes, a dremel, and some electrical tape to fix it. Once you get the case filled up with hardware, you totally can't see that edge anyway.


----------



## Sunreeper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chrisnyc75*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *47 Knucklehead*
> 
> its removable. If I can't fit my cards in, I will most likely fire up the saw and "make it fit". From what I've read, it's just aluminum and plastic. Shouldn't be hard to cut and then pull out a can of spray paint, or wrap it with some contact paper.
> 
> 
> 
> ^^^^This.
> 
> It's unfortunate that Phanteks didn't realize that extra 1" clearance in that particular position would be so important to literally their entire exact demographic, but as far as flaws go it's rather easily remedied. I stressed about it for eons, then it took me approximately 10 minutes, a dremel, and some electrical tape to fix it. Once you get the case filled up with hardware, you totally can't see that edge anyway.
Click to expand...

Can we see a picture of it?

Guys do you think it would be possible to mount a rad to the front of the case or will there be absolutely no airflow?


----------



## oicwutudidthar

quick question

in order to run 780 ti sli in this case I will need to remov ethe reservoir mounting plate completely right?


----------



## magicase

Does anyone know if this case cools better than the Silverstone FT02/RV02 case?


----------



## COMBO2

My case came in 10 days early!

I'm out but when I get home, boy I'm going to have fun with this thing


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *magicase*
> 
> Does anyone know if this case cools better than the Silverstone FT02/RV02 case?


With just the five included 140mm fans the Enthoo Primo is no slouch when it comes to air cooling, but it is a case primarily designed for watercooling. You could easily add many more fans to make it a wind tunnel if you wanted. The Enthoo Primo has mounting locations for up to eleven 140mm fans or sixteen 120mm fans in all.



That said, unless I'm mistaken, the Silverstone cases you mentioned are those with the mobo turned 90 degrees with the expansion slots facing up and three 180mm fans at the bottom, making them some of the most, if not the most, efficient air cooling designed cases ever made.

If it was completely outfitted with as many fans as possible, it would probably put an Enthoo Primo very close to air cooling performance as the Silverstones, maybe even better, but then you'd have added noise and total cost to consider also.

You're wanting to compare apples to oranges. There's not a real comparison that can be made imho.


----------



## chrisnyc75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sunreeper*
> 
> Can we see a picture of it?
> 
> Guys do you think it would be possible to mount a rad to the front of the case or will there be absolutely no airflow?


I'll check tonight to see if I took a picture of the dremel'ed edge before I installed everything (you really can't see it now, it's hidden behind the reservoir). I literally just dremel'ed the notched section of the reservoir mount to come down about an inch lower, it wasn't hard at all. I will admit, though, it's not the 'cleanest' mod in the world (I'm far from an 'expert' metalworker lol), but like I said, you can't see it at all.

You could mount a 240 rad in the front, but there's a designated mounting spot for a 240 rad on the side that makes it unnecessary to do so (I don't think you could do both, they would conflict with each other)


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scorpion49*
> 
> The screws fit through all mounting areas:
> 
> There are a few spots the bottom pedestal blocks screws, this might be solved by moving the rad one way or the other but by the time I found out I had cut all the tubing to length.
> 
> The rad is very snug in there, it scraped the paint off when I forced it down. As far as I know, the UT60 white is no different than the Monsta of regular UT60 as far as width (it is for 120mmfans).


Again.... on my top 420 rad, I used screws to hold it up in the air.....if I didn't it would fall down on my components







.....If I was installing in the bottom, I think I'd let gravity do the holding







The screws work fine in the fans. I like the socket head screws byt I think Alphacool should:

1. Give ya 4 copper washers for each 120/140 of rad
2. Give ya 8 copper screws of each size for each 120/140 of rad.

But I can't blame Phanteks for that, that's on Alphacool..... but all the rad manufacturers are guilty of item 2

So if it's snug enough on one side that ya scraped off paint, I assume you have an extra 20mm of space on the other side ?

I also removed the grommets BTW when installing the 140mm wide UT60.....out them back in though afterwards.

Quote:


> From what I'm seeing, the advantage of the acetal portion is appearance. I don't see any cooling benefits so likely I'll go for the shorter block which should allow me to fit that card into the Enthoo on the board's 3rd PCIe. Fingers crossed cause I really like that res mount - don't want to have to remove it.


The EK 780 block fits with only one of the two acetal blocks..... ya want the "no circles one.

GPU Water Block - EK ASUS GeForce 780 GTX DCII VGA Liquid Cooling Block - Nickel (EK-FC780 GTX DCII - Nickel)
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/21270/ex-blc-1529/EK_ASUS_GeForce_780_GTX_DCII_VGA_Liquid_Cooling_Block_-_Nickel_EK-FC780_GTX_DCII_-_Nickel.html?tl=c613s1928b133

GPU Water Block Backplate - EK ASUS GeForce 780 GTX DCII VGA Liquid Cooling RAM Backplate - Black CSQ (EK-FC780 GTX DCII Backplate - Black)
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/21273/ex-blc-1532/EK_ASUS_GeForce_780_GTX_DCII_VGA_Liquid_Cooling_RAM_Backplate_-_Black_CSQ_EK-FC780_GTX_DCII_Backplate_-_Black.html?tl=c613s1928b133

While both are "full cover", the no circles" one leaves teh last inch of the board uncovered



The one with the EK circles on it goes all the way to the end and will hit the bracket if installed in Slot No. 5 (Covering Slots Nos 5 & 6)



Here's the pic installed with the "no circles" block with an M6F



And here's the layout on the MoBo



The Reference TI ones look just like the Asus 780 ones except the top is all acrylic



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *COMBO2*
> 
> Oh well, kind of glad I shelled out the extra $200. For the drivers + shadowplay I guess it'll be worth it, that is of course apart from performance alone!


Prolly also saved 120mm of rad too per card









Should be noted again that Phanteks is working on "Res Bracket 2.0". Dunno when they be done tho.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *unclejim*
> 
> Hello all. My apologies if this has already been answered - I'm working my way gradually through this thread and am still at the early stages.
> 
> I'm planning on putting a 240mm rad in front and a 360mm in top, and was wondering whether it would be possible to mount the front rad direct to the chassis while leaving the 140mm fans in place. I know it's a bit unorthodox, but I'm considering my options in retaining as many of the stock fans as possible while purchasing a minimum of new 120mm ones. The reason I am considering this is to move the top 140 to the bottom, have 4x140 as intakes, 3x120 and 1x140 as exhaust and maintain good positive pressure.
> 
> Having not seen one of these cases in the flesh, so to speak, I'm not sure about the mounting holes or clearances to see if this is possible.
> 
> Thanks all.


It's in the manual (pg 25)....also see Jesse's FAQ on ModZoo ....a 45mm think rad will fit behind the front fans with the HD caged in the "back" position

Id recommend a 420 on top unless ya already have the 360.

I don;t know why using the provided fans would be unorthadox....they kick ass.....last year SPCR tested the field and the 120mm fans romped over the 140s....this year the 140s took the top 5 outta 5 spots with the Phanteks fan at the top of the list. I am showing a delta T of 10C with 4770k at 4.6GHz, pump at 25% speed, and twin 780s w/ a 32% overclock ...... and a "grand total" of 5 Phanteks rad fans. I had planned on 10, but just installed them in push so far on the 420 and 280. Given the 10C I see no reason to get the pull fans.

I would not use inside the case fans to cool ya rads....why use hot air ?

Right now I have (2) Front going in, (5) Rad going in, (2) right side going out, (1) rear going out. Under stress testing water temp is 31.2, ambient is 21.2 .... I didn't have case temp sensor hooked up while testing but right now it's same temp as 2nd Rad Out @ 24.8

Here's the review which was done on large air coolers, which if anything put a higher SP on fans with thier tight fin spacing than they'll see on todays 11-12 fpi rads

http://www.silentpcreview.com/article1345-page7.html

Phantels beat both the Gentle Typhoons and the Corsair SP 120's

Positive pressure is a "red herring" ..... I never worry about it .... much more simply put.....as long as ya have filters on all air inlets (whether they be fans or grilles) , you won't accumulate dust. Besides with all ya rad fans blowing in, you will definitely have positive pressure.

Not that the Phanteks SP140 fans (25mm) that come with the case and the Phanteks SP140s ones ya buy extra (27mm) are not the same thickness....so don't mix the two on same side of Rad ..... if ya use say a 280 on the bottom, put the two fans under there so it don't wobble or mount them on the right side panel and use new 140 mm fans for on the rads.....The thickness difference is caused by the vibration isolators which the boxed fans have. As an alternate to buying new If ya B & M (***** and moan) to Phanteks, they prolly send ya some

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sunreeper*
> 
> Guys do you think it would be possible to mount a rad to the front of the case or will there be absolutely no airflow?


Sure, see page 25 of the manual.... 45mm thick fits.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *oicwutudidthar*
> 
> in order to run 780 ti sli in this case I will need to remov ethe reservoir mounting plate completely right?


See above pic.... if the Ti uses the EK 780 WB, 1 of the 3 blocks they make for the DCII (which has longer PCB) fits. A 10.5" long card will fit with 7mm to spare with a 60mm res..... with SLI'd card in Expansion Slot Nos 5 and 6

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *magicase*
> 
> Does anyone know if this case cools better than the Silverstone FT02/RV02 case?


In every review I have read, the Phanteks came out on top..... tho it is a water cooler's case, it will do just fine with up to 16 fan mounts (not counting the PSU).


----------



## Scorpion49

My radiator has no space on either side, dunno where this 20mm is coming from. Not sure how you would fit a radiator for 140mm fans at all. The 120 is up against both sides.


----------



## 47 Knucklehead

I hope I can get me 3.175mm between my 360 and the case wall. I think I am going to line the inside of my case with 1/8" acrylic ... either in white or orange. That will make the internal lighting "pop".


----------



## chrisnyc75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scorpion49*
> 
> My radiator has no space on either side, dunno where this 20mm is coming from. Not sure how you would fit a radiator for 140mm fans at all. The 120 is up against both sides.


The bottom only takes 120mm variants; the top has plenty of space for 140mm.


----------



## chrisnyc75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *47 Knucklehead*
> 
> I hope I can get me 3.175mm between my 360 and the case wall. I think I am going to line the inside of my case with 1/8" acrylic ... either in white or orange. That will make the internal lighting "pop".


The only place where that might be a problem would be the bottom radiator space. I had to literally take out the cable management hole gasket to squeeze my 360 in, the width is precisely what is needed for a 120mm rad (and many 120mm rads won't fit because of casing etc)


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Yeah, the space at the bottom between the panel w/ the Phanteks logo and the PSU shroud is only 128mm wide (& that's after taking out the rubber pass-through grommets. You'll lose ~3mm if you leave them in - which is why the manual says "125mm width max") & will ONLY accept a 120-series rad, and it is a VERY tight fit. My 125mm-wide Alphacool monsta just barely fits down in there, basically feels like it's touching on both sides as it slides in. I can leave the grommets in and it will still fit, barely, but then it literally is being pushed up against the inside of the panel w/ the Phanteks logo as it slides in there. If you have a white, or painted rad, I would not advise trying to put it in there with the grommets left in. A wider designed 120-series rad, like a 133mm-wide Black Ice SR1, will not fit down there at all.

The extra 20mm that Jack was referring to must be referring to his 280 at the bottom that sits on that bracket. Rads 280 and under long don't have to pass through the 128mm wide space between the panel w/ the Phanteks logo and the PSU shroud. Only a 120-series rad (360 or 480) will fit past that, and even then only if it's 128mm or less wide.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scorpion49*
> 
> My radiator has no space on either side, dunno where this 20mm is coming from. Not sure how you would fit a radiator for 140mm fans at all. The 120 is up against both sides.


That's why I asked you the length ..... 140 mm rads that fit on the mounting bracket (140 and 280 length) fit just fine.... the UT60 is 144mm wide and there's a 145mm space. You can use longer but only 120mm rads fit if using anything longer than 280 ....The UT60's with 120mm fans are 124mm wide and the space allotted is 125 mm


----------



## pchangover

So I finally got my case and man is this thing a piece of art while being so very functional. I have the same common issue with QC as a lot of other people - the two front "clickers" don't work so I can't get the front intake filter on and none of my fans have the vibration rubber on them so they won't match my ordered fans. I sent them an email but haven't heard anything back yet, I might have to post on their forum as well.

I took the dolly idea from Doyll and made a cart for it. I used a small furniture dolly from Harbor Freight that was on Black Friday sale for $8 and cut it in half and extended it with 1x8s. It's not perfect but it's a good start. I should have my w/c gear in later this week to start building into it.


----------



## Scorpion49

I could use a dolly for mine, thats for sure. I think it weighs about 65 lbs with the loop installed.


----------



## chrisnyc75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scorpion49*
> 
> I could use a dolly for mine, thats for sure. I think it weighs about 65 lbs with the loop installed.


65? Mine seriously weighs at least 80 lbs, it's heavy as f&%# lol

I picked up a floating wall shelf from Home Depot and repurposed it as a sliding base by velcro'ing ceramic casters on the bottom so it slides across carpet easily. The same could be accomplished for hardwood floors by attaching wheels, or using simple felt moving pads.

http://rog.asus.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=29990&d=1384993603&thumb=1
http://rog.asus.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=29991&d=1384993605&thumb=1
http://rog.asus.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=29989&d=1384993601&thumb=1

Just a slightly less "DIY" solution for those of us who aren't so handy in the shop.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Cool, since we're all sharing picks of our case mobility projects, here's my lil rolling drawer cabinet for my Enthoo Primo. I'd made a larger one just like it a year or so ago for my Cosmos II, and posted pictures of it and this one some umpteen pages back when it was still in the building-phase ...


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

FYI,

For anyone who might be using or planned on using the Swiftech 8-way PWM splitter - and I suspect the same will hold true for (m)any other PWM splitters like it - there is a very interesting conversation going on with a Swiftech rep (BramSLI1) over in the 'water cooling club' thread over issues with it related to various different models of PWM fans ...
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Just FYI. There appears to be an issue with using our splitter with some fans. The issue is that with some brands the fans will run at full speed when more than four of the headers on the splitters are utilized. We're currently looking into this, but it appears to be with just certain brands. I don't yet have any information on the Cougar fans though. I just thought you'd like to know that there may be an issue if you use more than four of the headers on these splitters with certain fans.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Any issues with Corsair SP120 quiet and high performance pwm fans?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Actually, those are one of the ones that we've had particular issues with. We're not sure why exactly, but it looks like it might have something to do with the way Cosair implements PWM control for these fans.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Oh man, I just bought more fans for a push/pull config on both my 480mm rads. Is this for both quiet and high performance versions?
> 
> Anyone know if other splitters would work for 8 SP120s?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Right now it looks like both versions of these fans and the issue appears to be related to the IC used for PWM control for these fans. The current used to carry the PWM signal for our fans is quite low, but it appears that Corsairs needs a higher current to register the PWM signal. Since this is the case once you plug in more than 4 fans the current becomes too low for the Corsair fans to detect it and they subsequently run at full speed. This has been confirmed by our engineer here.


See, it's things like that right there ^, and add to it the whole issue with mobos in the first place where almost all of them only the CPU_FAN & CPU_OPT headers are even really PWM at all, is why I still steer clear of ALL PWM devices so far. They look to be the future, and are fine for a CPU fan or two in an air-cooled rig, but not for larger scale implementation imho, at least not until all the bugs like this get worked out.

Give me the old tried and true 3 pin fans and a fan controller all-day, every day, over all the problems associated with PWM right now. Makes me really glad I got a Lamptron CW611 instead of even trying out the fan hub that came with the case (especially after seeing the issues Jack I think it was is having with it).

I guess if I did want to have PWM fans on every rad, the only way to go right now would be with an Aquaero 6, but that's going to set you back a pretty penny.


----------



## 47 Knucklehead

UPS shows that my case should arrive Wednesday.


----------



## adino

Which tube res would you guys recommend that is compatible with the bracket? I was looking at getting the photon 170 or 270, but from what I've been able to find I can't use the bracket for those unless I drill my own holes. (I'd rather not at this point.)


----------



## Terminus14

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *adino*
> 
> Which tube res would you guys recommend that is compatible with the bracket? I was looking at getting the photon 170 or 270, but from what I've been able to find I can't use the bracket for those unless I drill my own holes. (I'd rather not at this point.)


Personally, I'm going with the Photon 170 but I'm not putting it on the bracket. Just recently in the thread there was talk of using industrial strength velcro to mount a res wherever you want without having to worry about drilling up your case. I'd look into that if I were you.


----------



## Terminus14

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Cool, since we're all sharing picks of our case mobility projects, here's my lil rolling drawer cabinet for my Enthoo Primo. I'd made a larger one just like it a year or so ago for my Cosmos II, and posted pictures of it and this one some umpteen pages back when it was still in the building-phase ...
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Love that. Gives you a nice place to stash some surplus computer related items at the same time as adding mobility to the Enthoo.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Terminus14*
> 
> Love that. Gives you a nice place to stash some surplus computer related items at the same time as adding mobility to the Enthoo.


Yeah that was the reason behind making the first one for the Cosmo 2. When I bought it I had a HAF X I was moving from that I was selling to a friend, and he wanted the 5.25" bay covers and other items I had removed from the case and I couldn't find them. All that stuff was just gone I had no idea. I decided then & there that I needed to build some type of storage that stays with the case to hold everything that goes with it, the manuals/receipts/invoices for the case & all hardware installed, any parts I pulled off it/didn't need, and any discs to software that was installed, etc.

Plus the idea was to get it up off of the floor a bit to help minimize problems with dust, but not too high as I find a full tower sitting up desktop height to be too inconvenient. I want to be able to power it on / off, insert/remove disks and flash drives, etc all while seated next to it, and be able to move it around easily, like rolling it out to the garage/driveway for the occasional cleaning everything out with the air compressor. That's why I went with big 3" (75mm) castors on both of them so they can handle door thresholds and such with little problems.


----------



## moiph

Just got my case this weekend







Fantastic so far, updated from an Antec 1200. Love the build quality and attention to detail; my wiring is much cleaner in this case and I haven't had a case this tool less before.
Only issue I've had is the PWM not working, but I suspect that's just because my motherboard doesn't support it. I was thinking it would still at least power my fans as a central hub but I may be mistaken there.


----------



## ADragg

Hey Jack, I see you were lucky enough to get one of the EK backplates for the Asus GTX 780 before they went out of stock everywhere (or at least the two places I ordered my parts from, which were FrozenCPU and Performance PC's). I'm not sure exactly how the water block works (I got the same "short" EK block you have), but does it still utilize the stock backplate? And is the aftermarket EK one something you could put on later without removing the block from the card and draining the loop etc? I want to add the EK backplate when they're in stock but I don't want to have to drain the entire system to do it. I was hoping it's something you can just install carefully while the card is still inside the chassis hooked up. But it won't be too much of a priority as long as I can still use the stock backplate to cover the PCB. I do want that EK one to Plastidip white, though, because I have white tubing and white EK res, etc.









Well, all my parts are in the mail! I was able to get 9% off at Frozen CPU, which saved me almost about $70







Had to get the UT60 280mm, EK Supremacy CPU block, and EK reservoir down tube from Performance PC's, though. As well as fans from Newegg. I hope I didn't forget anything that I'll need...


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *moiph*
> 
> Just got my case this weekend
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Fantastic so far, updated from an Antec 1200. Love the build quality and attention to detail; my wiring is much cleaner in this case and I haven't had a case this tool less before.
> Only issue I've had is the PWM not working, but I suspect that's just because my motherboard doesn't support it. I was thinking it would still at least power my fans as a central hub but I may be mistaken there.


Are you running the fan hub from your mobo's CPU_FAN header? A lot of (read: most) mobos don't have true PWM control over all of the 4 pin headers on the board.


----------



## COMBO2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Terminus14*
> 
> Personally, I'm going with the Photon 170 but I'm not putting it on the bracket. Just recently in the thread there was talk of using industrial strength velcro to mount a res wherever you want without having to worry about drilling up your case. I'd look into that if I were you.


The photon screw holes actually don't align to the res bracket's, so I ghetto mounted it with industrial grade double sided tape. Don't stuff up though, I had to grab a hairdryer and heat the stuff majorly so I get the res off LOL.


----------



## COMBO2

I've finished my build, except the tube I got actually looks god awful. I wanted that MSI Lightning yellow colour, instead the tube is like a green/yellow UV tube. I Mohr just get black tube as that will look nice. Not sure now...


----------



## chrisnyc75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> FYI,
> 
> For anyone who might be using or planned on using the Swiftech 8-way PWM splitter - and I suspect the same will hold true for (m)any other PWM splitters like it - there is a very interesting conversation going on with a Swiftech rep (BramSLI1) over in the 'water cooling club' thread over issues with it related to various different models of PWM fans ...
> 
> See, it's things like that right there ^, and add to it the whole issue with mobos in the first place where almost all of them only the CPU_FAN & CPU_OPT headers are even really PWM at all, is why I still steer clear of ALL PWM devices so far. They look to be the future, and are fine for a CPU fan or two in an air-cooled rig, but not for larger scale implementation imho, at least not until all the bugs like this get worked out.
> 
> Give me the old tried and true 3 pin fans and a fan controller all-day, every day, over all the problems associated with PWM right now. Makes me really glad I got a Lamptron CW611 instead of even trying out the fan hub that came with the case (especially after seeing the issues Jack I think it was is having with it).
> 
> I guess if I did want to have PWM fans on every rad, the only way to go right now would be with an Aquaero 6, but that's going to set you back a pretty penny.


Hmmm, I have 6 Corsair SP120 High Performance fans plugged into the Swiftech splitter and have encountered no such problem, it works as advertised, if maybe a little below max rpm (which, as I understand, is to be expected when connecting multiple fans to a single mobo header)

The Swiftech fan hub, on the other hand, acts a bit janky - but I haven't yet determined whether it may be due to bios/software settings more than the Phanteks hardware itself.


----------



## AnTiLooP

Guys.. I'm a proud owner of this case however just noticed out of the box there a hair line scratch vertically where the blue led is ? I only noticed this after peeling off the protective plastic wrapper that was pasted to it. Couldn't have been dragged to get that scratch. ... so wondering if it's normal ?


----------



## bond32

Just ordered a second D5 off a member here. Not exactly sure yet how I want to do my loop, but I have the xspc tank res, dual bay res, and the xspc performance pump top to use for 2 pumps. Thinking I will keep the one pump on the bottom with the performance top and use the dual bay res. Bottom pump will feed the top bay res/pump. Swiftech micro res will feed the bottom pump. Any suggestions?


----------



## moiph

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Are you running the fan hub from your mobo's CPU_FAN header? A lot of (read: most) mobos don't have true PWM control over all of the 4 pin headers on the board.


I was not. I moved the CPU fan to a 4pin chas fan connector and hooked up the hub to my cpu fan header. All works like a charm now, thanks!


----------



## jassilamba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ADragg*
> 
> Hey Jack, I see you were lucky enough to get one of the EK backplates for the Asus GTX 780 before they went out of stock everywhere (or at least the two places I ordered my parts from, which were FrozenCPU and Performance PC's). I'm not sure exactly how the water block works (I got the same "short" EK block you have), but does it still utilize the stock backplate? And is the aftermarket EK one something you could put on later without removing the block from the card and draining the loop etc? I want to add the EK backplate when they're in stock but I don't want to have to drain the entire system to do it. I was hoping it's something you can just install carefully while the card is still inside the chassis hooked up. But it won't be too much of a priority as long as I can still use the stock backplate to cover the PCB. I do want that EK one to Plastidip white, though, because I have white tubing and white EK res, etc.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well, all my parts are in the mail! I was able to get 9% off at Frozen CPU, which saved me almost about $70
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Had to get the UT60 280mm, EK Supremacy CPU block, and EK reservoir down tube from Performance PC's, though. As well as fans from Newegg. I hope I didn't forget anything that I'll need...


as long as you get the backplate for the same brand as the GPU, you can install them easily. I know the EK back plates for the 780/Titan are the same, and can be installed without draining the loop or even removing the card from the case.


----------



## Sunreeper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chrisnyc75*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Sunreeper*
> 
> Can we see a picture of it?
> 
> Guys do you think it would be possible to mount a rad to the front of the case or will there be absolutely no airflow?
> 
> 
> 
> I'll check tonight to see if I took a picture of the dremel'ed edge before I installed everything (you really can't see it now, it's hidden behind the reservoir). I literally just dremel'ed the notched section of the reservoir mount to come down about an inch lower, it wasn't hard at all. I will admit, though, it's not the 'cleanest' mod in the world (I'm far from an 'expert' metalworker lol), but like I said, you can't see it at all.
> 
> You could mount a 240 rad in the front, but there's a designated mounting spot for a 240 rad on the side that makes it unnecessary to do so (I don't think you could do both, they would conflict with each other)
Click to expand...

Thanks for the info! I know that it could fit a 240 at the front but I was thinking about something along the lines of a 360 or 420.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *adino*
> 
> Which tube res would you guys recommend that is compatible with the bracket? I was looking at getting the photon 170 or 270, but from what I've been able to find I can't use the bracket for those unless I drill my own holes. (I'd rather not at this point.)


Photon's mounting requires drilling and may eliminate 10.5" long GFX cards from consideration .... if it makes it, it will be by the proverbial hair.

Any 60mm fits .... you'll have like 2-3mm between the res and the GFX cards and like 10mm between the res and the back of 5.25" bays.

I can tell ya for sure that the EK Res 3

a. Fits with the above clearances
b. Lines up with the predrileld holes
c. Ya won't need the nuts as hole in bracket are threaded.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Give me the old tried and true 3 pin fans and a fan controller all-day, every day, over all the problems associated with PWM right now. Makes me really glad I got a Lamptron CW611 instead of even trying out the fan hub that came with the case (especially after seeing the issues Jack I think it was is having with it).


It is kinda odd the that I'm having the problem with the phantks fans the PCB. Kinda goes back ti the crypic note stickied to the fan feed lone saying don't pug it in unless ya need to .... define "need".

Does that mean ya shouldn't plug it in cause then it will run at full speed ?

Or maybe that's why we haven't seen it out yet as an accessory ? Cause it don't work with other than Phanteks (although that is what I'm using) like Swiftech found out ?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ADragg*
> 
> Hey Jack, I see you were lucky enough to get one of the EK backplates for the Asus GTX 780 before they went out of stock everywhere (or at least the two places I ordered my parts from, which were FrozenCPU and Performance PC's). I'm not sure exactly how the water block works (I got the same "short" EK block you have), but does it still utilize the stock backplate? And is the aftermarket EK one something you could put on later without removing the block from the card and draining the loop etc? I want to add the EK backplate when they're in stock but I don't want to have to drain the entire system to do it. I was hoping it's something you can just install carefully while the card is still inside the chassis hooked up. But it won't be too much of a priority as long as I can still use the stock backplate to cover the PCB. I do want that EK one to Plastidip white, though, because I have white tubing and white EK res, etc.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well, all my parts are in the mail! I was able to get 9% off at Frozen CPU, which saved me almost about $70
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Had to get the UT60 280mm, EK Supremacy CPU block, and EK reservoir down tube from Performance PC's, though. As well as fans from Newegg. I hope I didn't forget anything that I'll need...


Guilty as charged









When nVidia announced their new deal and price reduction, I ordered 1 of the last 2 Frozen WB's FCPU had in stock and the backplate ..... when I confirmed fit, I asked them to put the 2nd one on the side for me to pick up as I'd be in town a week later..... they were outta stock on the backplates but order came in the day before I visited.

As to installation..... look at the instructions for the WB install.... you have to put like 10 or 12 screws in ..... if ya use the backplate, then only the 4 around the GPU go in....the rest all come from the backplate kit .... so no.....you might be able to install the block and then doing the BP as a later add on, but it doesn't sound easy ....certainly not if in SLI.

Also keep in mind ya have to buy 2 nuts (M3) at the hardware store cause EK does not provide these fasteners for the end ones .....on the "'short side" of the block.

But it is in orderable ..... that's same message I git when I placed the order on Thursday but when I arrived on Tuesday it was there.

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/21273/ex-blc-1532/EK_ASUS_GeForce_780_GTX_DCII_VGA_Liquid_Cooling_RAM_Backplate_-_Black_CSQ_EK-FC780_GTX_DCII_Backplate_-_Black.html

As for the dipping, keep in mind that the backplate provided cooling....thermal pads go between the plate and the card..... EF recommends spreading TIM on the pads...... Id recommend using Gelid Extreme and their spatula ..... for the big pads, I spread it on the pad, then paid it on the card ..... then spread it on the raised backplate spot where they'd touch and again spread it thin with the spatula.

NOTE: The Gelid is very workable when tube 1st opened but gets thick and pasty very fast.


----------



## chrisnyc75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> Photon's mounting requires drilling and may eliminate 10.5" long GFX cards from consideration .... if it makes it, it will be by the proverbial hair.


It does require drilling holes (or coming up with some other creative mounting technique), but it fits just fine alongside 10.5" graphics cards. I have a Photon 170 mounted next to my dual GTX770s with about 5-10mm to spare on either side of the res. It's close enough to require accurate measurements before mounting, but it will absolutely fit, and I wouldn't quite call it a "hair".

*edit: I should qualify that a Photon res will fit alongside a 10.5" graphics card *including* heatsink. The pcb on a 770 is exactly 10.5", if your heatsink, casing, fans, or waterblock is even a few millimeters bigger than 10.5" it may not fit.


----------



## COMBO2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chrisnyc75*
> 
> It does require drilling holes (or coming up with some other creative mounting technique), but it fits just fine alongside 10.5" graphics cards. I have a Photon 170 mounted next to my dual GTX770s with about 5-10mm to spare on either side of the res. It's close enough to require accurate measurements before mounting, but it will absolutely fit, and I wouldn't quite call it a "hair".
> 
> *edit: I should qualify that a Photon res will fit alongside a 10.5" graphics card *including* heatsink. The pcb on a 770 is exactly 10.5", if your heatsink, casing, fans, or waterblock is even a few millimeters bigger than 10.5" it may not fit.


Yeah, I've just installed a GTX 780 Ti & with the Photon it's not roomy but nothing's touching and there is space. With an R9 290X though, forget the bracket, and forget a res there. Nothing will fit.

ONLY 10.5" cards guys.


----------



## COMBO2

Can anyone recommend a yellow tube that would go well with the MSI Z77 MPower mobo?

I am looking now at black, because as I said earlier, the PrimoChill yellow tube I got looks like balls in the case. It's like a highlighter!

I'll send pics when I'm all done, just waiting on tube haha...


----------



## grifftech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *COMBO2*
> 
> Yeah, I've just installed a GTX 780 Ti & with the Photon it's not roomy but nothing's touching and there is space. With an R9 290X though, forget the bracket, and forget a res there. Nothing will fit.
> 
> ONLY 10.5" cards guys.


Awesome I am putting in the 780Ti with a 270MM Photon


----------



## Terminus14

Case just arrived in the mail.



What you're looking at here are the shattered remains of the pins that are supposed to be holding my front and top panels on.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chrisnyc75*
> 
> It does require drilling holes (or coming up with some other creative mounting technique), but it fits just fine alongside 10.5" graphics cards. I have a Photon 170 mounted next to my dual GTX770s with about 5-10mm to spare on either side of the res. It's close enough to require accurate measurements before mounting, but it will absolutely fit, and I wouldn't quite call it a "hair".
> 
> *edit: I should qualify that a Photon res will fit alongside a 10.5" graphics card *including* heatsink. The pcb on a 770 is exactly 10.5", if your heatsink, casing, fans, or waterblock is even a few millimeters bigger than 10.5" it may not fit.


Something is amiss then here...... I have a 60mm res and I don't have anywhere near the room you have. Measuring with a caliper....

1. The 780 measures 10.5"

2. The distance from card end to bottom plate at bottom of HD bays measures 75-76mm from edge of backplate (flush w/ PCB)

3. The specs on the Photon say it's 75mm wide

Looking at my measurements from when case was empty .... I had a 343mm space - 267mm (10.5") - 75mm res = 1mm

So ..... based upon those two ....we have a 75-76mm space and ***if the published specs are correct*** .... then it's going to be a tight fit.

Now looking at my 60mm res and using "office feeler gauges" ..... aka stacks of business cards







.... I get 3mm to the GFX cards and <11mm to the plate ... which would indicate 74mm clearance fort he 75mm res....so all 3 measurements are within 1-2mm of each other

So what can be going on here ?

1. Your Enthoo is bigger than mine .... not likely









2. You have one of the shorter 770s (many EVGAs for example are just 10.0") .... I'm thinking ya got measurement right

3. The specs indicating the width of the Photon are incorrect ? .... yes...we have a winner !

Doing some searching, I found that the tube itself is 70mm (so what is 75 ? ... maybe the acetal ?)

So now if I have 14mm to spare with my 60mm ... and the Photon needing 10 (not 15) more with an actual tube diameter of 70mm.....I see it fitting w/ 2 mm on each side .... if you have 10mm either side , then something I can't figure out. What 770 do you have ?

If I wanna find the mistake, so I can go back and correct the dimensional drawing.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *COMBO2*
> 
> Yeah, I've just installed a GTX 780 Ti & with the Photon it's not roomy but nothing's touching and there is space. With an R9 290X though, forget the bracket, and forget a res there. Nothing will fit.
> 
> ONLY 10.5" cards guys.


How much room you got Combo ?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *COMBO2*
> 
> Can anyone recommend a yellow tube that would go well with the MSI Z77 MPower mobo?
> 
> I am looking now at black, because as I said earlier, the PrimoChill yellow tube I got looks like balls in the case. It's like a highlighter!
> 
> I'll send pics when I'm all done, just waiting on tube haha...


I say black acetal and yellow fluid .... go for the "Bumble Bee" look


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Terminus14*
> 
> Case just arrived in the mail.
> 
> 
> 
> What you're looking at here are the shattered remains of the pins that are supposed to be holding my front and top panels on.


That's terrible. How can that even happen? Was the box damaged? Have you contacted the seller / Phanteks yet, and if so, what did they say?


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Something is amiss then here...... I have a 60mm res and I don't have anywhere near the room you have. Measuring with a caliper....
> 
> 1. The 780 measures 10.5"
> 
> 2. The distance from card end to bottom plate at bottom of HD bays measures 75-76mm from edge of backplate (flush w/ PCB)
> 
> 3. The specs on the Photon say it's 75mm wide
> 
> Looking at my measurements from when case was empty .... I had a 343mm space - 267mm (10.5") - 75mm res = 1mm
> 
> So ..... based upon those two ....we have a 75-76mm space and ***if the published specs are correct*** .... then it's going to be a tight fit.
> 
> Now looking at my 60mm res and using "office feeler gauges" ..... aka stacks of business cards
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .... I get 3mm to the GFX cards and <11mm to the plate ... which would indicate 74mm clearance fort he 75mm res....so all 3 measurements are within 1-2mm of each other
> 
> So what can be going on here ?
> 
> 1. Your Enthoo is bigger than mine .... not likely
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 2. You have one of the shorter 770s (many EVGAs for example are just 10.0") .... I'm thinking ya got measurement right
> 
> 3. The specs indicating the width of the Photon are incorrect ? .... yes...we have a winner !
> 
> Doing some searching, I found that the tube itself is 70mm (so what is 75 ? ... maybe the acetal ?)
> 
> So now if I have 14mm to spare with my 60mm ... and the Photon needing 10 (not 15) more with an actual tube diameter of 70mm.....I see it fitting w/ 2 mm on each side .... if you have 10mm either side , then something I can't figure out. What 770 do you have ?
> 
> If I wanna find the mistake, so I can go back and correct the dimensional drawing.
> How much room you got Combo ?
> I say black acetal and yellow fluid .... go for the "Bumble Bee" look


The glass tube on the Photon is 70mm.
The acetal top and bottom are 73mm
The pump ring that comes with the D5 combo is 84mm.
Tho optional/extra aluminum XSPC pump ring is 75mm.

Only the glass tube diameter is likely to be relevant to the max GPU length issue.
343mm - 70mm = 273mm (10.75") max length for a GPU next to a Photon res.

Also, just a bit of a side note, GPU's PCBs can be a little bit to a whole lot shorter than the card's listed length with the coolers still on, so if you're watercooling, it's not the listed length of the card that matters, it's the length of the PCB / waterblock that you have to take into account. Quite a few cards listed as longer than the 10.9" max to the res bracket (or 10.75" max to a Photon on the res bracket) will still be able to fit once the cooler is off and waterblocks are on.


----------



## smokedawg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *COMBO2*
> 
> With an R9 290X though, forget the bracket, and forget a res there. Nothing will fit. ONLY 10.5" cards guys.


I posted this before but I am using the bracket with a 290x, an ek-full block + backplate and the ek x3 250mm res. The card/pcb and the res have contact but it fits:


----------



## COMBO2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> Something is amiss then here...... I have a 60mm res and I don't have anywhere near the room you have. Measuring with a caliper....
> 
> 1. The 780 measures 10.5"
> 
> 2. The distance from card end to bottom plate at bottom of HD bays measures 75-76mm from edge of backplate (flush w/ PCB)
> 
> 3. The specs on the Photon say it's 75mm wide
> 
> Looking at my measurements from when case was empty .... I had a 343mm space - 267mm (10.5") - 75mm res = 1mm
> 
> So ..... based upon those two ....we have a 75-76mm space and ***if the published specs are correct*** .... then it's going to be a tight fit.
> 
> Now looking at my 60mm res and using "office feeler gauges" ..... aka stacks of business cards
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .... I get 3mm to the GFX cards and <11mm to the plate ... which would indicate 74mm clearance fort he 75mm res....so all 3 measurements are within 1-2mm of each other
> 
> So what can be going on here ?
> 
> 1. Your Enthoo is bigger than mine .... not likely
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 2. You have one of the shorter 770s (many EVGAs for example are just 10.0") .... I'm thinking ya got measurement right
> 
> 3. The specs indicating the width of the Photon are incorrect ? .... yes...we have a winner !
> 
> Doing some searching, I found that the tube itself is 70mm (so what is 75 ? ... maybe the acetal ?)
> 
> So now if I have 14mm to spare with my 60mm ... and the Photon needing 10 (not 15) more with an actual tube diameter of 70mm.....I see it fitting w/ 2 mm on each side .... if you have 10mm either side , then something I can't figure out. What 770 do you have ?
> 
> If I wanna find the mistake, so I can go back and correct the dimensional drawing.
> How much room you got Combo ?
> I say black acetal and yellow fluid .... go for the "Bumble Bee" look


I have about 2mm either side of red. I already got the black tubing, and I would've loved yellow pastel, but I can't get it here in AUS. The black looks snazzy though. I'll post pics soon.


----------



## chrisnyc75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> Something is amiss then here...... I have a 60mm res and I don't have anywhere near the room you have. Measuring with a caliper....
> 
> 1. The 780 measures 10.5"
> 
> 2. The distance from card end to bottom plate at bottom of HD bays measures 75-76mm from edge of backplate (flush w/ PCB)
> 
> 3. The specs on the Photon say it's 75mm wide
> 
> Looking at my measurements from when case was empty .... I had a 343mm space - 267mm (10.5") - 75mm res = 1mm
> 
> So ..... based upon those two ....we have a 75-76mm space and ***if the published specs are correct*** .... then it's going to be a tight fit.
> 
> Now looking at my 60mm res and using "office feeler gauges" ..... aka stacks of business cards
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .... I get 3mm to the GFX cards and <11mm to the plate ... which would indicate 74mm clearance fort he 75mm res....so all 3 measurements are within 1-2mm of each other
> 
> So what can be going on here ?
> 
> 1. Your Enthoo is bigger than mine .... not likely
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 2. You have one of the shorter 770s (many EVGAs for example are just 10.0") .... I'm thinking ya got measurement right
> 
> 3. The specs indicating the width of the Photon are incorrect ? .... yes...we have a winner !


Hmmm, that's strange. I'm 99.9% certain my GTX770 is exactly 10.5" long -- why? Because for months I was convinced it was 10.0" long and was surprised when my Enthoo arrived and I took measurements to find that it didn't fit with the res mount installed. lol Precisely because I had it wrong for so long, and it made an impression when I realized my error, I'm pretty sure my measurements are correct now (although I'm happy to double-check tonight if ya like).

I think it's probably the measurement of the Photon that is throwing you off. I'm not at home right now to measure and check, but my educated guess is that the stated 75mm width is at the capped ends of the Photon tube - the caps are a few mm wider all around than the tube itself. So, accounting for the extra capped width on both sides, the caps probably add a good 6-8mm to the measurement. I don't think my 770 would have fit next to the Photon if I had tried to mount it next to the capped end; however, in the position I have it, the bottom capped end of the res is just below my bottom gpu, so it doesn't conflict. So, once again, this reinforces that mounting requires precision measurement, but with proper alignment it leaves a few mm clearance on both sides of the res.

Either that, or my Enthoo Primo is just better than yours. lol









p.s. it's funny to think that in my next build I may actually pick a graphics card based on its physical dimension more than its performance. lol Buit if there's a choice between a 11" 'top of the line' card and a 10.5" 'second tier' card, I'll probably go with the second tier. I think the Enthoo Primo has RUINED me. lol


----------



## Terminus14

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> That's terrible. How can that even happen? Was the box damaged? Have you contacted the seller / Phanteks yet, and if so, what did they say?


By looking at the box, you wouldn't expect the extent of the damage that was present. The corners were a bit scrunched and dinged up but other than that it wasn't that bad. What I suspect happened was the box was dropped or something on the corner and the flex of the case caused it to snap those pins.

I contacted Newegg within 15 minutes of opening the box and had everything sorted out within 45 minutes.

Usually Newegg doesn't do RMAs on products that have been damaged in shipping. They also usually wait until the broken product has gotten shipped and is sitting back in house before they ship out the replacement product. For me, however, they're ignoring both of those things. Not only are they going to replace my broken case, they've already started processing the replacement and it's expected to be here by the end of the week because the customer service rep upgraded the shipping from my original 5-7 day to ensure that it'd get here quickly. I'll ship out the broken one some time today and that'll be all she wrote.

All in all, pretty impressed with Newegg customer service. I'm holding off on being happy until I see the condition that the new one arrives, though.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Terminus14*
> 
> By looking at the box, you wouldn't expect the extent of the damage that was present. The corners were a bit scrunched and dinged up but other than that it wasn't that bad. What I suspect happened was the box was dropped or something on the corner and the flex of the case caused it to snap those pins.
> 
> I contacted Newegg within 15 minutes of opening the box and had everything sorted out within 45 minutes.
> 
> Usually Newegg doesn't do RMAs on products that have been damaged in shipping. They also usually wait until the broken product has gotten shipped and is sitting back in house before they ship out the replacement product. For me, however, they're ignoring both of those things. Not only are they going to replace my broken case, they've already started processing the replacement and it's expected to be here by the end of the week because the customer service rep upgraded the shipping from my original 5-7 day to ensure that it'd get here quickly. I'll ship out the broken one some time today and that'll be all she wrote.
> 
> All in all, pretty impressed with Newegg customer service. I'm holding off on being happy until I see the condition that the new one arrives, though.


I sure hope you have better luck with your replacement.

Then you can change your avatar!


----------



## 47 Knucklehead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Terminus14*
> 
> By looking at the box, you wouldn't expect the extent of the damage that was present. The corners were a bit scrunched and dinged up but other than that it wasn't that bad. What I suspect happened was the box was dropped or something on the corner and the flex of the case caused it to snap those pins.


All this talk about damaged cases is scaring me. Mine comes in today.

As far as damage goes, I just saw the same thing happen yesterday. I sold an EK water block to an OCN member and boxed it up with a ton of bubble wrap and used a fragile label on it, and it STILL was messed up in shipping ... no damage to the box what so ever.









I filed a claim with UPS and will be issuing a PayPal refund to the buyer today.





I just pray that my new case doesn't suffer the same fate.


----------



## Terminus14

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> I sure hope you have better luck with your replacement.
> 
> Then you can change your avatar!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


That's terrifying and I love it. If my new case comes in in good shape, you can bet I'll be using that!


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> The glass tube on the Photon is 70mm.
> The acetal top and bottom are 73mmThe pump ring that comes with the D5 combo is 84mm.
> Tho optional/extra aluminum XSPC pump ring is 75mm.
> 
> Only the glass tube diameter is likely to be relevant to the max GPU length issue.
> 343mm - 70mm = 273mm (10.75") max length for a GPU next to a Photon res.
> 
> Also, just a bit of a side note, GPU's PCBs can be a little bit to a whole lot shorter than the card's listed length with the coolers still on, so if you're watercooling, it's not the listed length of the card that matters, it's the length of the PCB / waterblock that you have to take into account. Quite a few cards listed as longer than the 10.9" max to the res bracket (or 10.75" max to a Photon on the res bracket) will still be able to fit once the cooler is off and waterblocks are on.


Yes....all agreed

-I dug up the 70mm "tube" dimension as mentioned in the above post ...... just wondering what they were referring in published spec of 75mm ....seems odd that the res specs would include a dimension for an "optional" pump ring component and not the actual item on the spec page the potential buyer is looking at.....seems to me they shud spec either 70 or 73

- You came up with pretty much the same space number as me ... I came up with 2mm space each side .... your 1/4" wud be 3mm each side (rounding errors I guess but still close enuff to call it 'tight" either way) ... I trying to figure out how Chris sees 5-10 on each side.

-As for the PCB lengths, yes, that was all accounted for...... I started a GFX card dimensions database thread here on OCN to collect all those figures.....for the most part, you can determine your situation by looking at "underside" photos on newegg. This one has a photo of the 770 where ya can clearly see that the PCB matches the spec dimensions given for the card

Asus GTX 770 http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814121770
You can clearly see in the underside photo that nothing hangs over.....but yet it's spec length is 10.7" ? Which is kinda odd as It supposedly used the same PCB as the 780 which I have measured at 10.5"

OTOH, as I detailed with the 780, the PCB and backplate are only 10.5 .... the published dimension is 11.3". You can clearly see in the newegg "underside" photos that there is significant overhang.
on the Asus GTX 780 .... though from the pics, I'd never guess it to be 0.8 inches

Asus GTX 780 http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814121779

Would appreciate any additions to the GFX card Dimensions thread BTW

http://www.overclock.net/t/1437498/data-resource-for-wcers-gfx-card-dimensions

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *COMBO2*
> 
> I have about 2mm either side of red. I already got the black tubing, and I would've loved yellow pastel, but I can't get it here in AUS. The black looks snazzy though. I'll post pics soon.


Yes, I came up with 2mm also and Unicron came up with 3.....so seems we have some consensus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chrisnyc75*
> 
> I think it's probably the measurement of the Photon that is throwing you off. I'm not at home right now to measure and check, but my educated guess is that the stated 75mm width is at the capped ends of the Photon tube - the caps are a few mm wider all around than the tube itself. So, accounting for the extra capped width on both sides, the caps probably add a good 6-8mm to the measurement.


We accounted for that .... tho i was thinking 75mm, some searching came up with the 70mm tube diameter and recalculating I cam eup with 2mm each side..... Combo has 2 also and Uni came up with 3mm..... O if it's not the card length, you have a better Enthoo than all of us









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Terminus14*
> 
> All in all, pretty impressed with Newegg customer service. I'm holding off on being happy until I see the condition that the new one arrives, though.


I suspected it was a UPS thing .... a 45 pound large box is something I guess they find unpleasant...... Im gonna go looking for youtube videos.... like the Wendy's one where the kid has his mouth under frostee machine and taco bell kid licking stack of Tacos.







.... see if I can find UPS guys tossing boxes across the room.

One thing I always do this time of year ..... run out and catch the driver in early November and throw him a $20. Hard to do as they never wait for signature but I almost never get damaged goods







..... FedEx Ground I avoid like the plague. 90% of stuff from them is damaged


----------



## chrisnyc75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> - You came up with pretty much the same space number as me ... I came up with 2mm space each side .... your 1/4" wud be 3mm each side (rounding errors I guess but still close enuff to call it 'tight" either way) ... I trying to figure out how Chris sees 5-10 on each side.


I don't. I overestimated. I took a close look at it last night, and it's probably about 3mm on either side of the res, so that falls in line with your calculations.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Cool.... now I don't have to load AutoCAD today


----------



## Jopel

One thing I must share, best after-sales I have experienced in a while.
A month ago ordered 2 Enthoo Primo's and on delivery it turned out one got the familiar problem of the frontpanel not opening,
the other had some esthetic damage on the toppanel, included 2 damaged pins to hold the toppanel to the frame.
One mail to them and within some day's got my replacement-parts.

Way to go Phanteks, big fan here


----------



## doyll

Indeed. Phanteks as great customer support.


----------



## 47 Knucklehead

My case came in, there is a SLIGHT crush on the box. I'm almost afraid to open it up and see.









Well, I'm glad I did. There is a 2" dent in the side of the case.



At least the clips on the front panel, and everything else that I can tell ... so far ... appear to be ok.


----------



## grifftech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *47 Knucklehead*
> 
> 
> 
> My case came in, there is a SLIGHT crush on the box. I'm almost afraid to open it up and see.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well, I'm glad I did. There is a 2" dent in the side of the case.
> 
> 
> 
> At least the clips on the front panel, and everything else that I can tell ... so far ... appear to be ok.


Hopefully they can just send you a new side panel, and ask for it to be encased in bubble wrap


----------



## 47 Knucklehead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *grifftech*
> 
> Hopefully they can just send you a new side panel, and ask for it to be encased in bubble wrap


Yeah, I just called up FCPU and they are having me email them the photos. I'm hoping that is all the damage. After work, I'll go over the case with a fine tooth comb and see if there is any more damage. If not, they can just send me a new side panel, and that will be good. I'm not too worried. FPCU has treated me VERY well over the years, and I have a ton of mods to do on this case in the meanwhile.


----------



## 47 Knucklehead

Ok, so I got everything home, and pulled out the DSLR and took some real photos, and here they are ...



Such a nice pile of items to start off with. I am absolutely floored by the quality of the Phanteks Enthoo Primo case. Is is solidly built and doesn't "wrack" like some cases. The paint quality is very good and the aluminum accents are very nice. Yes it has a little bit of plastic, but it in no way feels "cheap".


----------



## grifftech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *47 Knucklehead*
> 
> Ok, so I got everything home, and pulled out the DSLR and took some real photos, and here they are ...
> 
> 
> 
> Such a nice pile of items to start off with. I am absolutely floored by the quality of the Phanteks Enthoo Primo case. Is is solidly built and doesn't "wrack" like some cases. The paint quality is very good and the aluminum accents are very nice. Yes it has a little bit of plastic, but it in no way feels "cheap".


Sweet, I love making the loot pile also







Mine is still sitting in the same spot as I am still waiting for the XSPC GTX 780 Ti water block to come out. I don't want to get everything all setup and then have to tear down the loop to put in the card, so I am impatiently waiting


----------



## chrisnyc75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sunreeper*
> 
> Thanks for the info! I know that it could fit a 240 at the front but I was thinking about something along the lines of a 360 or 420.


Sorry, I forgot last night, but I did get a picture of the modified res mount edge before I got the full loop installed (pardon the weird picture angle, I had to twist the camera to get in close enough to get the shot). As you can see, it's a rough mod, with the dremel'ed edge taped over for safety (no sharp edges!), but you literally can't see it even if you try now that everything is in (btw, it doesn't look like it in the picture because of the flash, but the tape is black, which is probably why it blends well enough that you can't see the mod at all now unless you really get down in there looking for it)



Here's another shot from after I first filled the loop, this one gives you an idea how inconspicuous that spot is if you do a very minimal mod.


----------



## chrisnyc75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *grifftech*


Nice, that's quite a nice start! How do you plan on getting three 360 rads in there? One on top, one on bottom, obviously, but I can't figure out where you'd put a third 360?


----------



## Roxycon

Maybe like i did on mine


Edit:
Ah, nvm, saw the res a bit too late







maybe well see a front odd bay cut out mod?


----------



## COMBO2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roxycon*
> 
> Maybe like i did on mine
> 
> 
> Edit:
> Ah, nvm, saw the res a bit too late
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> maybe well see a front odd bay cut out mod?


Mate, that is ghetto mounting at it's finest!









I kind of ghetto mounted my pump on double sided tape and bubble wrap to give the tube more room to breath. lol.

Less vibration now as well!


----------



## Roxycon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *COMBO2*
> 
> Mate, that is ghetto mounting at it's finest!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I kind of ghetto mounted my pump on double sided tape and bubble wrap to give the tube more room to breath. lol.
> 
> Less vibration now as well!


Spacing there just begged for my otherwise tucked in the resource bin 360 rad so why not







and the tape+ some left over tubing wall on the other side makes it so secure that i had to use force to get it out of the test fit position







was thinking about l brackets to the rad but it isnt necessary

Edit:
Here is the most ghetto in my build


Mayhems bottle cap anti vibration mod


----------



## grifftech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chrisnyc75*
> 
> Nice, that's quite a nice start! How do you plan on getting three 360 rads in there? One on top, one on bottom, obviously, but I can't figure out where you'd put a third 360?


only going with 2, just deciding which 2


----------



## voldomazta

This case is absolutely heavy. Lifting it feels like there's a couple of radiators and a loop present inside, but it's empty. Definitely close to my TJ-11 with a full loop inside.

Also, no group sig?


----------



## COMBO2

http://www.overclock.net/g/a/1077256/legacy-build-pc-overhaul/

There it is guys. My album of photos for my Enthoo build. I'm really happy with it, but let me know what you guys think!


----------



## doyll

Looks really nice COMBO2 ! Congrats!


----------



## Roxycon

Nice, but you should find a way to not cross your tubing would look a bit more managed without the crossing


----------



## 47 Knucklehead

I love the build.









The lights really do make that thing "pop".

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roxycon*
> 
> Nice, but you should find a way to not cross your tubing would look a bit more managed without the crossing


I agree.

Here is what I would suggest.


----------



## paulyoung

I've got to hand it to Phanteks not only is their first case one , if not the best quality I have seen, their customer service is also superb. Once I received my case 1 of the front door catch springs wouldn't hold the catch, so after an EMail to them, I had a responce within an hour, letting me no 2 replacement catches are on there way. Spot on service









I would like peoples views on rads. I have at present a 360 x 30mm up top, and a Monsta 420 in the bottom, both in push pull. They are cooling a pair of 7950's and an i5 4670k. I also have either a Monsta 240, or Monsta 280, knocking about. What I am thinking is too mount the 420 up front ( with a top front door mod of some sort, and remove drive bay centre plate ) and one of the other rads on the bottom, most likely the 280. That will give me the less of a gap between the front and bottom rad, 10 cm approx, which should be enough not to disrupt the bottom front fans air flow. Is it over kill ? The reason being is that I had to mod the front bays in order for the 3 x 140mm rad to fit in the bottom so I cut it in half and mounted a plate in its plate, but you can see under the plate, and there is a gap between the bottom rad and front fans that looks a bit fuggly, and a 3rd rad would solve that problem.

http://s1210.photobucket.com/user/stungy1/media/20131130_205619_LLS_zpse99cae1e.jpg.html

That was a pic before the strip down, I had 2 problems. Firstly after an overnight leak test i proceeded in connecting everything up nice and tidy only to discover something wasn't right. So I went through the usual fault finding and it was the molex cable on the fan splitter board. So I replaced the cable and although the pc fired up no fans, so out with the molex to fan reducers, yea power and fans. So I loaded all drivers and prog that I needed to start with and for about an hour all was good. So once again the job of cable manegement, my most hated job. After about an hour all finished side panels onand all seems good. Yep right, I noticed that my temps were slowly going up. So off with the panels again. I noticed I couldn't here that low hum the D5 gives off, Oh bugger







my sodding pump had failed. I have no idea what had gone wrong it was fine one second and not the next. My worst problem is it is only 6 months old and I can't RMA the thing I I cut off the tacho cable. With Christmas being so close no pennies to buy another till after the jolly season. BAH HUMBUG..............


----------



## chrisnyc75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paulyoung*
> 
> http://s1210.photobucket.com/user/stungy1/media/20131130_205619_LLS_zpse99cae1e.jpg.html
> 
> That was a pic before the strip down, I had 2 problems. Firstly after an overnight leak test i proceeded in connecting everything up nice and tidy only to discover something wasn't right. So I went through the usual fault finding and it was the molex cable on the fan splitter board. So I replaced the cable and although the pc fired up no fans, so out with the molex to fan reducers, yea power and fans. So I loaded all drivers and prog that I needed to start with and for about an hour all was good. So once again the job of cable manegement, my most hated job. After about an hour all finished side panels onand all seems good. Yep right, I noticed that my temps were slowly going up. So off with the panels again. I noticed I couldn't here that low hum the D5 gives off, Oh bugger
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> my sodding pump had failed. I have no idea what had gone wrong it was fine one second and not the next. My worst problem is it is only 6 months old and I can't RMA the thing I I cut off the tacho cable. With Christmas being so close no pennies to buy another till after the jolly season. BAH HUMBUG..............


You know that's upside-down, right? lol Interesting choice, why?

*edit: nevermind, I just realized it's not that it's upside-down, you actually mod'ed the panel and moved the "Phanteks" logo to the top. I wasn't quite sure what I was looking at at first. lol Still, interesting choice, I like it.


----------



## 47 Knucklehead

Very nice build Paul.

I love how you modded the drive bay cover. I really haven't looked into doing something like that, but now that I see that it is possible, I might look into that more closely.









When you cut the panel, and it no longer goes all the way down to the base anymore, did the case lose major structural integrity? That was the one think I like about this case, it doesn't seem to "wrack" at all and is very solid. I wonder if doing that mod will make it more "flimsy".

As far as radiators go, for what you have now, that should be plenty. Ignoring the fact that you have a Monsta (80mm thick) rad and a regular 30mm rad, the fact that you have 6 120mm equivalent worth of radiator, in push/pull no less, is more than enough. As a rule of thumb, you really only need 1 120mm worth of radiator per device being cooled (CPU or video car) PLUS 1 120mm worth of radiator for a buffer. So with your CPU and 2 video cards, all you really need is 4 120mm worth of radiator (1 CPU + 2 GPU + 1 buffer), and you have 6.

Radiator thickness is another issue of which I've changed my mind about over time. I used to use the thickest radiators I could stuff in the case ... including the Monsta 360. But honestly, after playing with them first hand, and after people like Martin has done many reviews of them, radiator thickness really isn't as important as linear surface area and the fans you use. In short, it is better to have a 30mm 480 with 8 fans than an 80mm (or even 60mm) 360 with 6 fans.

I hope that helped.


----------



## paulyoung

I love how you modded the drive bay cover. I really haven't looked into doing something like that, but now that I see that it is possible, I might look into that more closely.









When you cut the panel, and it no longer goes all the way down to the base anymore, did the case lose major structural integrity? That was the one think I like about this case, it doesn't seem to "wrack" at all and is very solid. I wonder if doing that mod will make it more "flimsy".

Cheers mate, as far as structural integrity goes the case is fine, the only problem was I did want to just cut of what I needed and as soon as the far left screw that connects the panel to the case was removed, the panel warped, that's why the choice of e replacement panel.

I see what your saying about rads, I was shocked on how well the Alphacool ST30 360 performed in Martins tests. I've got so many monsta's as I usually mount rads up front and i think a slim rad looks out of place. Besides I can run all my fans on 5v and not have any temp increase.

When I replace my pump, I'm going for the Koolance PMP500 again, It performs so much better than the D5 from my experience. So I can always mount it between the front and bottom rad. It is such a sweet looking pump, it would be a shame to hide it awy out of sight...


----------



## Terminus14

Okay. Got broken Enthoo on Tuesday. Replacement Enthoo just got here only two days later. Opened it up and looked around. Everything looks good! Put her back in her box to chill until she gets filled with all kinds of electronic goodies in a week or so.


----------



## jassilamba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Terminus14*
> 
> Okay. Got broken Enthoo on Tuesday. Replacement Enthoo just got here only two days later. Opened it up and looked around. Everything looks good! Put her back in her box to chill until she gets filled with all kinds of electronic goodies in a week or so.


I saw the changed avatar, didn't have to read anything further.

Glad to know everything worked out.


----------



## COMBO2

Thanks for the feedback guys. On the next maintenance update for the WC loop I'll switch the tube order. I know it doesn't necessarily have any result on temperature but in my mind the tube / rad setup was performance wise the best I could get. I agree on terms of it looking better all managed though. It more turned out like this as my original tubing loop idea was messed up by the kink allowed in the tube.
+ I'm getting like high 20s - low 30s for temps on 780 Ti (!!!)


----------



## 47 Knucklehead

Well, got an email back from Frozen CPU and Phantek. The damaged side panel and plastic LED cover will be shipping out tomorrow.









You guys are right, Phantek is very responsive.


----------



## Roxycon

Could someone provide me with two pics, one how the fit under the power on button to the front panel is and the other of how it looks underneath, is it a clip for the front i/o to get flush with the front panel?

Kinda hoping that the fitment should feel a little flimsy cause that means no rma but the again i dont like the flimsyness of the io panel


----------



## 47 Knucklehead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roxycon*
> 
> Could someone provide me with two pics, one how the fit under the power on button to the front panel is and the other of how it looks underneath, is it a clip for the front i/o to get flush with the front panel?
> 
> Kinda hoping that the fitment should feel a little flimsy cause that means no rma but the again i dont like the flimsyness of the io panel


Sure, here are three.











The clips that hold the whole top section where the LED's and the power button are the same sort of round barrel tabs that hold the rest of the top and front on.



Here is a close up of the power switch assembly area. There is a single phillips screw that holds on a plastic cover which keeps things from popping out.



Here is what it looks like with the cover removed ... where you can get access to the 2 blue LEDs on the power switch, as well as the power (or is it HDD activity?) LED.


----------



## jassilamba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *47 Knucklehead*
> 
> Sure, here are three.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The clips that hold the whole top section where the LED's and the power button are the same sort of round barrel tabs that hold the rest of the top and front on.
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a close up of the power switch assembly area. There is a single phillips screw that holds on a plastic cover which keeps things from popping out.
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is what it looks like with the cover removed ... where you can get access to the 2 blue LEDs on the power switch, as well as the power (or is it HDD activity?) LED.


That is interesting, the review sample just has tape covering that section and holding things in place. Nice that they added that.


----------



## Roxycon

Thanks







power indicator is on the power button while hdd led is the one on the side

Hm, dosent look like mines broken though.. I could try to force the front bit down with the cables coming off of it







doesn't look nice with that gap in between there

+rep


----------



## jassilamba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roxycon*
> 
> Thanks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> power indicator is on the power button while hdd led is the one on the side
> 
> Hm, dosent look like mines broken though.. I could try to force the front bit down with the cables coming off of it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> doesn't look nice with that gap in between there
> 
> +rep


You sure no cables getting pinched?


----------



## Roxycon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jassilamba*
> 
> You sure no cables getting pinched?


Yhea, i refitted it 7 times when i first noticed the gap while making sure i had all the cables in one hand pulling them all down.. Cant remember how it was pre self managemented cables though


----------



## voldomazta

Enthoo Primo guts. Shaved off a few pounds from the case's weight.


Dat room...



The good thing about this case is that you can disassemble everything with a screw driver.
Well not all...

Damn rivets...


----------



## 47 Knucklehead

What are you going to do with it torn down like that?


----------



## ACE2K8

Got a question for u guys. I am thinking of getting on of these cases. But I have 9 3.5 HDD's and 4 2.5 SSD's and no idea where to mount all these drives.


----------



## Roxycon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ACE2K8*
> 
> Got a question for u guys. I am thinking of getting on of these cases. But I have 9 3.5 HDD's and 4 2.5 SSD's and no idea where to mount all these drives.


this, the rest of the drives will fit nativly


----------



## JackNaylorPE

I find the 120mm per device rule of them a bit weak at the high end .... at least "in theory" ..... after all a 290x overclocked (estimated 350 watts balls to the wall) is a lot different than a 660 ....

back in the 500s message number there's a summary of all Martins numbers .... I'll use the UT60 as a middle ground thickness in the example....

A UT60 @ 1,000 rpm gets you 50 watts of cooling with one fan and 61 watts in push / pull
A UT60 @ 1,250 rpm gets you 63 watts of cooling with one fan and 76 watts in push / pull
A UT60 @ 1,400 rpm gets you 70 watts of cooling with one fan and 85 watts in push / pull
A UT60 @ 1,800 rpm gets you 90 watts of cooling with one fan and 108 watts in push / pull

So that single 290x is gonna want 360 worth or Rad just for itself.

Of course martins tests are based on just the rad .... even the rad shroud radiation is excluded......plus all ya components radiate heat

Here's how I calculated my rig .....

4770k - 145
MoBo Chipset - 20
MoBo VRMs - 20
GTX 780 - 289
GTX 780 - 289
Pump - 36

Watts - 799

Then I said ....well I'm not stress testing all the time, and all the other components in the case radiate heat .... so let's shoot for 2/3 of that since 1250 rpm is all I wanna put up with worse case......so 66% of 799 or 533 watts is what I aimed for .... At 1250 rpm, the ST45-420 and UT60-280 gave me 508 watts in push pull.....420 right now with just one fan.....

what I can't understand tho was, at full stress test (RoG Real Bench, I top out at 75C on the CPU..... and under Furmark 40C on the GPUs.... the air was 21.2C and water temps 31.2 .... I lowered the fan profiles and now I'm hitting 45C on Furmark, RoG Real Bench hasn't changed ..... seems to be running hotter still than before

My son is playing War Thunder right now and CPU's 1st 4 cores are 51-60C and 2nd four are 40-46C .... GPU1 is at 98% and 39C, GPU2 is at 20% and 31C ...ambient air is 23.6C and 1st rad is 33.7 / 33.0 in / out and 2nd is 33.0 / 32.1 ...... highest I been able to get the water temp to is 38C under Furmark.

So yes, if ya "do the math" and plan to test ya rig with "stress testing", the rules of thumb go out the window...... if ya doing high end and overclocking and don't wanna go over 1250 rpm .... I'm thinking two 120s for each component.....at 1800 rpm, the rule of thumb seems to work well.

I have 5 x 140 which is just under the equivalent of 6 x 120 and I'm looking to grab just a bit more.

*Question* .... just how much louder are the Phanteks fans in push / pull than they are in just push ? Anyone have a way of just shutting one side off and seeing how temps and noise are affected ? I'm finding going from inaudible at 900 rpm to 1200 rpm and noisy just has very little affect on temps.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ACE2K8*
> 
> Got a question for u guys. I am thinking of getting on of these cases. But I have 9 3.5 HDD's and 4 2.5 SSD's and no idea where to mount all these drives.


Ya can fit four 2.5" drives in the provided SSD holders.

Ya can fit six 3.5" drives in the provude dtwin HD cages.

Ya can mount 3 HD's in wo 5.25" bays using one of the bugegrs Roxy pointed to.


----------



## pchangover

Got my performance-pcs and fcpu orders today. I only spent about 3x my budget....



I got some stuff test fitted and hopefully I'll find an hour or two to clean the rads and leak test it all this weekend. Yeeehaw!


----------



## Radmanhs

soooo.... i was thinking of maybe getting this case. it looks amazing in every way except i hear there are problems with the cheap plastic parts. how big of an issue are those parts in general?

i want to wc in this the system in my sig (might upgrade mobo) with 2 480 monsta's ;p for overkill... just overkill and silence with really low rpm gt ap-14's

also what is the tallest tube res you can put in there? i want to use the bitspower upgrade kit with it too


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radmanhs*
> 
> soooo.... i was thinking of maybe getting this case. it looks amazing in every way except i hear there are problems with the cheap plastic parts. how big of an issue are those parts in general?
> 
> i want to wc in this the system in my sig (might upgrade mobo) with 2 480 monsta's ;p for overkill... just overkill and silence with really low rpm gt ap-14's
> 
> also what is the tallest tube res you can put in there? i want to use the bitspower upgrade kit with it too


Haven't run into any 'cheap plastic parts"

1. The case ships at about 45 pounds and I think some frustrated UPS workers are behaving badly.

2. The two plastic "clickety thingies that hold the top and front panels on via press in / press out need some work.... I'm thinking that about half of them are damaged by users who, like me, shuda read the manual more thoroughly ..... I pressed in, apparently not hard enuff and then wiggled it back and forth till it popped maybe damaging it myself.... not sure what happened.

Suggestions.....

1. Inspect the box before carrier leaves.

2. If damaged, open it while he / she is still there.

3. Read the manual with regard to removal of parts...... press clickety things, never pull.

4. Remove dust filter sand don't put back in yntil build completed.

5. When pulling off panels and those plastic pop rivet type thingies.... I attack the removal from both sides..... pinching the rivets together from one side while pulling the panel from the other works well.


----------



## Radmanhs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Radmanhs*
> 
> soooo.... i was thinking of maybe getting this case. it looks amazing in every way except i hear there are problems with the cheap plastic parts. how big of an issue are those parts in general?
> 
> i want to wc in this the system in my sig (might upgrade mobo) with 2 480 monsta's ;p for overkill... just overkill and silence with really low rpm gt ap-14's
> 
> also what is the tallest tube res you can put in there? i want to use the bitspower upgrade kit with it too
> 
> 
> 
> Haven't run into any 'cheap plastic parts"
> 
> 1. The case ships at about 45 pounds and I think some frustrated UPS workers are behaving badly.
> 
> 2. The two plastic "clickety thingies that hold the top and front panels on via press in / press out need some work.... I'm thinking that about half of them are damaged by users who, like me, shuda read the manual more thoroughly ..... I pressed in, apparently not hard enuff and then wiggled it back and forth till it popped maybe damaging it myself.... not sure what happened.
> 
> Suggestions.....
> 
> 1. Inspect the box before carrier leaves.
> 
> 2. If damaged, open it while he / she is still there.
> 
> 3. Read the manual with regard to removal of parts...... press clickety things, never pull.
> 
> 4. Remove dust filter sand don't put back in yntil build completed.
> 
> 5. When pulling off panels and those plastic pop rivet type thingies.... I attack the removal from both sides..... pinching the rivets together from one side while pulling the panel from the other works well.
Click to expand...

ok, so the plastic parts are just the clippy thingies and the rest is metal? the ups guy will have a hell of a time getting the case to my house ;p but thats just more fun for me


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> I find the 120mm per device rule of them a bit weak at the high end .... at least "in theory" ..... after all a 290x overclocked (estimated 350 watts balls to the wall) is a lot different than a 660 ....
> 
> back in the 500s message number there's a summary of all Martins numbers .... I'll use the UT60 as a middle ground thickness in the example....
> 
> A UT60 @ 1,000 rpm gets you 50 watts of cooling with one fan and 61 watts in push / pull
> A UT60 @ 1,250 rpm gets you 63 watts of cooling with one fan and 76 watts in push / pull
> A UT60 @ 1,400 rpm gets you 70 watts of cooling with one fan and 85 watts in push / pull
> A UT60 @ 1,800 rpm gets you 90 watts of cooling with one fan and 108 watts in push / pull
> 
> So that single 290x is gonna want 360 worth or Rad just for itself.
> 
> Of course martins tests are based on just the rad .... even the rad shroud radiation is excluded......plus all ya components radiate heat
> 
> Here's how I calculated my rig .....
> 
> 4770k - 145
> MoBo Chipset - 20
> MoBo VRMs - 20
> GTX 780 - 289
> GTX 780 - 289
> Pump - 36
> 
> Watts - 799
> 
> Then I said ....well I'm not stress testing all the time, and all the other components in the case radiate heat .... so let's shoot for 2/3 of that since 1250 rpm is all I wanna put up with worse case......so 66% of 799 or 533 watts is what I aimed for .... At 1250 rpm, the ST45-420 and UT60-280 gave me 508 watts in push pull.....420 right now with just one fan.....
> 
> what I can't understand tho was, at full stress test (RoG Real Bench, I top out at 75C on the CPU..... and under Furmark 40C on the GPUs.... the air was 21.2C and water temps 31.2 .... I lowered the fan profiles and now I'm hitting 45C on Furmark, RoG Real Bench hasn't changed ..... seems to be running hotter still than before
> 
> 
> 
> My son is playing War Thunder right now and CPU's 1st 4 cores are 51-60C and 2nd four are 40-46C .... GPU1 is at 98% and 39C, GPU2 is at 20% and 31C ...ambient air is 23.6C and 1st rad is 33.7 / 33.0 in / out and 2nd is 33.0 / 32.1 ...... highest I been able to get the water temp to is 38C under Furmark.
> 
> So yes, if ya "do the math" and plan to test ya rig with "stress testing", the rules of thumb go out the window...... if ya doing high end and overclocking and don't wanna go over 1250 rpm .... I'm thinking two 120s for each component.....at 1800 rpm, the rule of thumb seems to work well.
> 
> I have 5 x 140 which is just under the equivalent of 6 x 120 and I'm looking to grab just a bit more.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> *Question* .... just how much louder are the Phanteks fans in push / pull than they are in just push ? Anyone have a way of just shutting one side off and seeing how temps and noise are affected ? I'm finding going from inaudible at 900 rpm to 1200 rpm and noisy just has very little affect on temps.


Have you tried putting 30-40mm spacer blocks under the case to increase airflow area to bottom fans?
Base has only about 90sq cm airflow area to / from bottom fans. A single 120mm fan has about 100sq cm airflow area... a 140mm fan has about 143sq cm airflow area.


----------



## voldomazta

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *47 Knucklehead*
> 
> What are you going to do with it torn down like that?


I am getting rid of the whole area concerning hdd bays + 5.25" bays then create a new aluminum cover that meets up with the mobo and put two tube reservoirs side by side. No use for HDD's since I'm on NAS and will only be using the 1 SSD mount at the back.

I hope the new added aluminum wall will make up for the case strength lost by removing the 5.25" bays and HDD bay cover.


----------



## 47 Knucklehead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radmanhs*
> 
> ok, so the plastic parts are just the clippy thingies and the rest is metal? the ups guy will have a hell of a time getting the case to my house ;p but thats just more fun for me


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> I find the 120mm per device rule of them a bit weak at the high end .... at least "in theory" ..... after all a 290x overclocked (estimated 350 watts balls to the wall) is a lot different than a 660 ....


Well, it's only a guide. There are exceptions of course.

In the past, you would count CPU's like the 3930K as 2 devices, as well as dual GPU's like the 7990 and GTX 690.

The R9 290X is most likely one of those "count as 2" (or at least 1.5) devices because they run so hot.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roxycon*
> 
> this, the rest of the drives will fit nativly


Very nice find. That look will match the Phantek perfectly too. So for 4 5.25" bays, you can have 6 cooled 3.5" hard drives.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radmanhs*
> 
> soooo.... i was thinking of maybe getting this case. it looks amazing in every way except i hear there are problems with the cheap plastic parts. how big of an issue are those parts in general?


From what I can tell, the problem with the clips are the same problem that even owners of the Corsair 900D have. There are just some parts of all cases that have to be made from plastic. I will say that the vast majority of this case is VERY SOLID metal. It doesn't "wrack" like some cases I've worked on, and with the exception of the 1" wide lighted side trim on the right, there really isn't any exposed plastic at all. Yes, some of it is made of plastic, but it is covered in aluminum, so the look isn't really "plasticy" like on my Switch 810s.

Most of the issues that people have (from what I've read) are from shipping. This case is HEAVY, and that usually means there is a higher chance of getting damaged. Thankfully the manufacturer (and if you order from Frozen CPU) are VERY responsive and helpful to replace any damage.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> Suggestions.....
> 
> 1. Inspect the box before carrier leaves.
> 
> 2. If damaged, open it while he / she is still there.
> 
> 3. Read the manual with regard to removal of parts...... press clickety things, never pull.
> 
> 4. Remove dust filter sand don't put back in yntil build completed.
> 
> 5. When pulling off panels and those plastic pop rivet type thingies.... I attack the removal from both sides..... pinching the rivets together from one side while pulling the panel from the other works well.


Very good suggestions!









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radmanhs*
> 
> ok, so the plastic parts are just the clippy thingies and the rest is metal? the ups guy will have a hell of a time getting the case to my house ;p but thats just more fun for me


No, besides the clips that hold the various metal parts on (like drive bays, filters covers, etc). The bottom feet and filters are plastic. As are the 2 trim pieces on the outside right-hand edge in the front and top that hold the blue LED strips and there the power button is. Finally, the top and front covers are plastic, but they are covered in sheets of aluminum so what you really see is metal.

So yes, this isn't like a $500 Case Labs case that is made of nearly all metal. There is some plastic in it, but IMO, the quality of the plastic is very heavy and well finished. You'd be very hard pressed to SEE a lot of plastic, as compared to many cases. Yes it's there, but it is very beefy. Besides, just because it's plastic, doesn't mean it's cheap. Plastics are used all the time in many things. This stuff seems to be a higher grade, or at least thicker, than stuff I've seen on other cases. Where it is used, you really won't have an issue with it. This case is so massive, once you build it, it will sit there and stay. It is NOT something you want to move around often.


----------



## chrisnyc75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *47 Knucklehead*
> 
> Very nice find. That look will match the Phantek perfectly too. So for 4 5.25" bays, you can have 6 cooled 3.5" hard drives.


I can vouch for those. I've had one for about 6 months and I love it, works like a charm, and allowed me to free up the hdd cage area completely in my Enthoo.

Granted, I don't think it gets much airflow with the front case door closed, but it's not "air tight" so I assume it's getting at least SOME air flow.

One thing to be aware of -- because of the fan built in to the front of the unit, mounted HDDs sit a little far back, so if you have a tight fit with a res mounted on the res mount right behind the 5.25" bay area, it can be tricky getting plugs in and out. But a HDD will fit with SATA + molex next to a mounted Photon 170. But it's tight.


----------



## doyll

'Those' refers to 'this'
Evercool ARMOR Dual 5.25" Drive Bay to Triple 3.5" HDD Cooling Box (HD-AR-R-BK)

http://www.evercool.com.tw/products/hd-ar.htm
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chrisnyc75*
> 
> I can vouch for those. I've had one for about 6 months and I love it, works like a charm, and allowed me to free up the hdd cage area completely in my Enthoo.
> 
> Granted, I don't think it gets much airflow with the front case door closed, but it's not "air tight" so I assume it's getting at least SOME air flow.
> 
> One thing to be aware of -- because of the fan built in to the front of the unit, mounted HDDs sit a little far back, so if you have a tight fit with a res mounted on the res mount right behind the 5.25" bay area, it can be tricky getting plugs in and out. But a HDD will fit with SATA + molex next to a mounted Photon 170. But it's tight.


Did you mount it behind the stock EP grilles? Could you post some pics of it installed?


----------



## chrisnyc75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Did you mount it behind the stock EP grilles? Could you post some pics of it installed?


No, you have to take the stock grilles out, then you push the unit in from the front until it sits flush against the front panel.

Sure, I'll post some pics of it tonight. I only have 1 hdd in it right now (my SDDs are mounted on the Enthoo brackets), but I had it full in my last build and it worked like a charm.

(*that small fan in the front of the unit is probably 20mm thick, so your HDDs sit about 20mm farther back than they would mounted on their own; hence, the disclaimer about possible conflict with a large res mounted on the res mount bracket)


----------



## Radmanhs

just wondering, what is the thickesf rad you can fit in the top push/pull?


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radmanhs*
> 
> just wondering, what is the thickesf rad you can fit in the top push/pull?


See here:
http://www.overclock.net/t/1418637/phanteks-enthoo-primo-owners-club/1580_20#post_21272556


----------



## 47 Knucklehead

What do you guys think about using a 30mm EX480 with 1200RPM push/pull fans up top and a 60mm RX240 with 1200RPM push/pull fans on the side. Think that will be able to cool a 3770K OC'd to 4.7/8GHz and 2 GTX 780 Classified OC'd to 1293MHz (maybe more)?

Originally I was thinking about going EX480 and RX360, but with my other gear I'm putting in, I can't easily do that (maybe), because the Aquacomputer 880mL reservoir and pump is just so massive, and the GTX 780 Classified cards are so long and tall.

I'm wondering if I should have gone with a 45mm up top, but since I'm going to basically "trash it" by painting it orange, and the EX360 got really good reviews from Martins (saying that it is basically almost as good as the RX) I couldn't see paying x2 the price for something like a UT45.


----------



## Radmanhs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Radmanhs*
> 
> just wondering, what is the thickesf rad you can fit in the top push/pull?
> 
> 
> 
> See here:
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1418637/phanteks-enthoo-primo-owners-club/1580_20#post_21272556
Click to expand...

cool, the fan on top will still be coverted i assuming? hahaha


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radmanhs*
> 
> cool, the fan on top will still be coverted i assuming? hahaha


Yes, the case has a cover / filter on the top that would be above the top fan in my diagram.


----------



## Bludge

Silverstone also have this which can hide behind the existing front covers


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Have you tried putting 30-40mm spacer blocks under the case to increase airflow area to bottom fans?
> Base has only about 90sq cm airflow area to / from bottom fans. A single 120mm fan has about 100sq cm airflow area... a 140mm fan has about 143sq cm airflow area.


I was showing 10C under stress testing which "the math" says I should have no shot at achieving .... math predicts about 20C. My bottom rad is showing roughly the same temp drop across the 280 as the 420 is ..... granted the 280 is after the CPU, MoBo and pump (216 watts) ..... and the 420s are after the GPUs.(500 watts) .

According to martin's, I shud be getting 343 watts of cooling from my rads with just the push fans @ 1000 rpm .... using just Furmark, with two GPUs I shud be hitting 550 - 600 watts from the GPUs alone.....

I'm not having an issue figuring out why I',m not getting better cooling.... just the opposite ......I am trying to figure out how I am getting cooling so far above what I am expected.

Now the other puzzler was originally I couldn't get water over 40C on Furmark .... then I ran FanXpert2 and reduced the fan profile, dropping RPMs from 1150-ish to 850-ish and went up to 45C. Manually raising speeds back up to 1100-ish, at least after 5 minutes, only got me down to 42-43C not 40C .... so that I couldn't figure.

Now nothing changed regarding bottom air inlet so I don't think that was a factor. The only thing that actually chnages was I swit6ched the SLI connector from the ugly GFX card one to the RoG one from the MoBo..... and I can't see that being a factor. Think it may be thermal mass in that with 2 liters of coolant it just takes a while to cool down.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radmanhs*
> 
> ok, so the plastic parts are just the clippy thingies and the rest is metal? the ups guy will have a hell of a time getting the case to my house ;p but thats just more fun for me


The case frame is metal.... the exterior front panel components are sandwiched aluminum / plastic.....the molded decorative / styling related stuff us plastic. But not a lot of plastic at all .... you can pretty much see this in the breakdown photos.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *47 Knucklehead*
> 
> What do you guys think about using a 30mm EX480 with 1200RPM push/pull fans up top and a 60mm RX240 with 1200RPM push/pull fans on the side. Think that will be able to cool a 3770K OC'd to 4.7/8GHz and 2 GTX 780 Classified OC'd to 1293MHz (maybe more)?
> 
> Originally I was thinking about going EX480 and RX360, but with my other gear I'm putting in, I can't easily do that (maybe), because the Aquacomputer 880mL reservoir and pump is just so massive, and the GTX 780 Classified cards are so long and tall.
> 
> I'm wondering if I should have gone with a 45mm up top, but since I'm going to basically "trash it" by painting it orange, and the EX360 got really good reviews from Martins (saying that it is basically almost as good as the RX) I couldn't see paying x2 the price for something like a UT45.


At 1200 rpm, the Phanteks 140mm fans rock, so I would recommend the XT45-420 on the top ... slightly more cooling than the 480 and fits push / pull w/ plenty or room .... right now I just have push and I'm seeing just a 12C temp rise (water over ambient) under furmark today @ 838 rpm on the fans. The UT60 will fit on 98% of the MoBos I think but access to certain things like th 8 pin EPS cable may be hard.

I have twin 780s at 1227 / 7600 mem and 4770k at 4.6 GHz ... still experimenting atm, hampered somewhat by fact that loading GPUz w/ Furmark running immediately gives me a windows timeout Open GL error.

I have 16-15/16" between the two rads with a UT60-280 on the bottom and a ST45-420 on the top ~ 430mm .... take off 54 mm for pull fans = 376mm

The Aquacomputer 880ml is 270mm so that leaves you 106mm for pump top / motor ....seems like ya wud have plenty of room on the bottom for a UT60-280 .....

OTOH .... will the Aqualis fit there width wise..... I was set on using one but the 80mm diameter limited me to 10.25" GFX cards

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *borax*
> 
> Guys what is the maximum thickness of rad i can put at the top of the case in push pull, Triple 360mm?


As was indicated in the drawing Uni referred ya do....45mm Rads (ST45 recommended) is the guaranteed fit. I could have fit the UT60 w/ my M6F but it would have been tight access to the EPS cable and the MPCIE thingie in upper left.

In the pic below of the ST45-420 in place, you can see that a UT60 wuda fit ..... I don't think I could replace the EPS cable tho with fan installed in pull.


----------



## Radmanhs

next to the mobo, can you fit a 150 or 250 mm res?


----------



## JackNaylorPE

I have a 250mm EK res....it fits if ya cards are 10.6" long or less.



<=== hates looking at this pic with as yet undone sleeving

Today's tip.....

The Reeven Six Eyes is great for displaying temps .... I changed the color today to match the blue Phanteks LEDs .... went to use the rpm display tho to indicate rpm's on the flow spinners... bad idea.....the low rpms (30-120) set off the alarm after 30 seconds....and it is literally ear piercing.

Question..... anyone tried to mount a Phanteks Fan behind the three of the 5.25" drive bays .... hate to add a HD bat cage simply to mount afan .... know there's mounts on side of 3.5" bays /.... not seen nothing yet on the 5.25.

Seems I have just enough room to mount it before they would interfere with any future pull fans under the rad.



While obviously would work better with door open, enuff side entry to still make it effective ... main goal tho is the interior lighting while not voisible from case windows does spill out a lot thru front grilles when door is open.,


----------



## Radmanhs

FUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUU.....

I have a R9 290 which is 10.8 inches long


----------



## Radmanhs

maybe what i could do is place it horizontally attached to the bottom push pull monsta


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radmanhs*
> 
> FUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUU.....
> 
> I have a R9 290 which is 10.8 inches long


1. My card is 11.3" long with the air cooler.....0.8 went away when I took air cooler off. So how long ya 290 is with the air cooler on is not an issue .... how long is the PCB with the air cooler removed ? Looking at the card underside pics here

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814202060

I see that the cooler extends past the PCB .... once WB is on, that goes away ...so if 10.6" from bracket to PCB edge ya golden.

2. I have a 10.5" card and it leaves me 2-3mm before I hit the res mounted on the bracket centerline with a 60mm res



So....if ya used a 50mm res.... you would have 5 more say 7-8mmm .... or 0.3 inches.....so that works too.

3. If we accept that ya willing to get past not having a "tool less mount" ... the expansion slot to back of 5.25" bay bottom is 343 mm ..... 343 - 60mm is 283mm or 11.1 inches. So it will fit....just not in the pre-drilled holes for the bracket.

4. Note there is a 2nd restriction ..... if ya gonna have CF, ya must use the shorter version of a full cover WB.... These end up about 1" shy of the end of the PCB and the lower card in SLI / CF when in slots 5 and 6 fits with a 10.5" card and the short block.


----------



## Radmanhs

alright, so im good using a 250 on the side... awesome


----------



## JackNaylorPE

How long is ya PCB ?


----------



## Radmanhs

whatever about 5 mm shorter than 10.6 inches is hahaha


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radmanhs*
> 
> whatever about 5 mm shorter than 10.6 inches is hahaha


everybody was dancin .... dancin in the streets !


----------



## ADragg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *COMBO2*
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/g/a/1077256/legacy-build-pc-overhaul/
> 
> There it is guys. My album of photos for my Enthoo build. I'm really happy with it, but let me know what you guys think!


Looks good man! What is that desk? I love it...

Oh, and currently working on my loop, guys! Pretty stoked. I think my idea of white tube/white EK res, gold Monsoon fittings (with some white Bitspower adapters mixed in) and other gold stuff (such as plugs), with clear EK blocks and Mayhems Blue Berry will come together as I had hoped in my head. Loving how the sleeving is looking as well (white, desert sand, and blue MDPC sleeve). The blue should match the blue Mayhems, the desert sand (tan) should match the gold I have all throughout the build, and the white should match the white (I can only hope







).


----------



## Darshan

Hello all









My stuff ! I hope you enjoy :


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Have you tried putting 30-40mm spacer blocks under the case to increase airflow area to bottom fans?
> Base has only about 90sq cm airflow area to / from bottom fans. A single 120mm fan has about 100sq cm airflow area... a 140mm fan has about 143sq cm airflow area.
> 
> 
> 
> I was showing 10C under stress testing which "the math" says I should have no shot at achieving .... math predicts about 20C. My bottom rad is showing roughly the same temp drop across the 280 as the 420 is ..... granted the 280 is after the CPU, MoBo and pump (216 watts) ..... and the 420s are after the GPUs.(500 watts) .
> 
> According to martin's, I shud be getting 343 watts of cooling from my rads with just the push fans @ 1000 rpm .... using just Furmark, with two GPUs I shud be hitting 550 - 600 watts from the GPUs alone.....
> 
> I'm not having an issue figuring out why I',m not getting better cooling.... just the opposite ......I am trying to figure out how I am getting cooling so far above what I am expected.
> 
> Now the other puzzler was originally I couldn't get water over 40C on Furmark .... then I ran FanXpert2 and reduced the fan profile, dropping RPMs from 1150-ish to 850-ish and went up to 45C. Manually raising speeds back up to 1100-ish, at least after 5 minutes, only got me down to 42-43C not 40C .... so that I couldn't figure.
> 
> Now nothing changed regarding bottom air inlet so I don't think that was a factor. The only thing that actually chnages was I swit6ched the SLI connector from the ugly GFX card one to the RoG one from the MoBo..... and I can't see that being a factor. Think it may be thermal mass in that with 2 liters of coolant it just takes a while to cool down.
Click to expand...

Was more interested in about airflow and noise when raised on 30-40mm blocks versus without.


----------



## 47 Knucklehead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radmanhs*
> 
> I have a R9 290 which is 10.8 inches long


I know, my GTX 780 Classified's are 11.0" long.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radmanhs*
> 
> maybe what i could do is place it horizontally attached to the bottom push pull monsta


Unlikely. I already did some mock-up work with a 60mm thick RX240/360 radiator. The Monsta is 80mm thick.



If you did something like that (which is what I was originally planning), you'd most likely lose 3+ expansion slots even with just 1 set of fans. Now granted I'm trying to use an 80mm thick reservoir.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> Today's tip.....
> 
> The Reeven Six Eyes is great for displaying temps .... I changed the color today to match the blue Phanteks LEDs .... went to use the rpm display tho to indicate rpm's on the flow spinners... bad idea.....the low rpms (30-120) set off the alarm after 30 seconds....and it is literally ear piercing.
> 
> Question..... anyone tried to mount a Phanteks Fan behind the three of the 5.25" drive bays .... hate to add a HD bat cage simply to mount afan .... know there's mounts on side of 3.5" bays /.... not seen nothing yet on the 5.25.
> 
> Seems I have just enough room to mount it before they would interfere with any future pull fans under the rad.
> 
> 
> 
> While obviously would work better with door open, enuff side entry to still make it effective ... main goal tho is the interior lighting while not voisible from case windows does spill out a lot thru front grilles when door is open.,


Look really nice with door open.


----------



## rpjkw11

Your pic is the very reason I often question the purpose behind having a door in the first place. I don't like them because the door hinge on an old case broke and it was a pain in the a$$ whenever I needed access to the panel behind. Aesthetics aside, doors are more trouble than they're worth, IMO. That said, my Primo and the last three cases I bought have all had doors, so I've learned to be carful, but.......

Rant over. I like what you did, Jack; looks awesome.


----------



## COMBO2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ADragg*
> 
> Looks good man! What is that desk? I love it...
> 
> Oh, and currently working on my loop, guys! Pretty stoked. I think my idea of white tube/white EK res, gold Monsoon fittings (with some white Bitspower adapters mixed in) and other gold stuff (such as plugs), with clear EK blocks and Mayhems Blue Berry will come together as I had hoped in my head. Loving how the sleeving is looking as well (white, desert sand, and blue MDPC sleeve). The blue should match the blue Mayhems, the desert sand (tan) should match the gold I have all throughout the build, and the white should match the white (I can only hope
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ).


Haha, it's some desk from Freedom Furniture in Australia.









Looking forward to your build!


----------



## COMBO2

By the way, can anyone give me some ideas as to why my temperatures have sort of rised (regardless of fan speed) on my rig?

I'm running about 70 degrees give or take on 100% load for a 3770k @ 4.5GHz (1.275V). It was running @ 60 when I first fired up the build/loop and tested it out.

Same goes for my GTX 780 Ti. It won't go past 40 degrees whereas it was actually sitting around 30 before. As I said, fan speed, 100%, 20%, doesn't affect the temps.

Any ideas?? :S


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Was more interested in about airflow and noise when raised on 30-40mm blocks versus without.


Not experiencing any noise at the 850 rpm .... and for whatever reason....temps dropped again on the GPUs .... bet this .... after I raised the OC a bit (to where it 1st was).

I neglected to look at the bottom of the case before doing my build and not enthused about laying it down on its roof. Will let it hang off table edge so I can get a peek at what it looks like.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *47 Knucklehead*
> 
> I know, my GTX 780 Classified's are 11.0" long.
> Unlikely. I already did some mock-up work with a 60mm thick RX240/360 radiator. The Monsta is 80mm thick.
> 
> If you did something like that (which is what I was originally planning), you'd most likely lose 3+ expansion slots even with just 1 set of fans. Now granted I'm trying to use an 80mm thick reservoir.


I was going to mount a res horizontally before confirming the 10.5" cards wud fit in SLI....there's a dimension.drawing in Post # 1000. I used a UT60 in the drawing. Whether it would fit with Moinsta would depend on ya MoBo layout.

If using those Slot 7 and 8 for a GFX card w/ waterblock, I'd say no way w/ a Monsta. But a sound card shud be fine. I have my 2nd GFX card using Slot Nos 5 and 6. That leaves Slot Nos 7 and 8 clear but the 1st inch or so of Slot No. 6 is taken up by the 2nd DVI port on the GFX card .... all clear from there on.

I have 5" above the rad (4" above a 2nd set of fans if installed) and 14" of clear length.....monsta would reduce clearance to 3" vertical....so something like an Aqualis and it's 80mm diamater would be a no go

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Look really nice with door open.


It's purely an aesthetic thing.... I installed bright white LEDs from Chine inside the case which you can't see thru the window but ya can see thru the 3 unused slots. Figured a Blue LEDE Phantks fan while spining would block that view. Didn't really care about air flow when closed but upon investigating it would pull air from the sides as there's a big gap bettween the 5.25 bays and the case front ....recirculated case air maybe.

I just noticed thet the grille to the left of the vertical LED strip, in addition to the large and small perforated stuff has a layer of foam on it .... that may solve the aesthetic issue also.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rpjkw11*
> 
> Your pic is the very reason I often question the purpose behind having a door in the first place. I don't like them because the door hinge on an old case broke and it was a pain in the a$$ whenever I needed access to the panel behind. Aesthetics aside, doors are more trouble than they're worth, IMO. That said, my Primo and the last three cases I bought have all had doors, so I've learned to be carful, but.......
> 
> Rant over. I like what you did, Jack; looks awesome.


Yiu can take the door off (4 screws) but the hinges would be left behind and if in closed position would hit a optical drive tray when it comes out if installed in bottom or top slot....aesthetically dissatisfying tho.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *COMBO2*
> 
> By the way, can anyone give me some ideas as to why my temperatures have sort of rised (regardless of fan speed) on my rig?
> 
> I'm running about 70 degrees give or take on 100% load for a 3770k @ 4.5GHz (1.275V). It was running @ 60 when I first fired up the build/loop and tested it out.
> 
> Same goes for my GTX 780 Ti. It won't go past 40 degrees whereas it was actually sitting around 30 before. As I said, fan speed, 100%, 20%, doesn't affect the temps.
> 
> Any ideas?? :S


1. Did you change from DW to "coolant" ? That reportedly can give you as much as a 2C rise but I found no difference.

2. Thermal mass ? I just went thru this.....only thing I changed was fan profile and SLI bridge. But I did notice that if I started out at 862 rpm.... then my GPUs got to 45C ..... turning them back up to full speed did not fully recover...... It takes a looong time (90 minutes) for me to reach that temp tho..... I was thinking my original tests simply didn't run long enough. But I raised the OC and retested starting at 1232 rpm and I got my original temps back.....seems one I had that 2 liters heated up, it was harder for the system to bring it back down.

3. Side panels on / off in both instanced ?

4. What fans are we talking about at 20 - 1--% .... rad fans ? How are you measuring speed ? Is the 12v feed plugged into the fan PCB ?


----------



## COMBO2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> 1. Did you change from DW to "coolant" ? That reportedly can give you as much as a 2C rise but I found no difference.
> 
> 2. Thermal mass ? I just went thru this.....only thing I changed was fan profile and SLI bridge. But I did notice that if I started out at 862 rpm.... then my GPUs got to 45C ..... turning them back up to full speed did not fully recover...... It takes a looong time (90 minutes) for me to reach that temp tho..... I was thinking my original tests simply didn't run long enough. But I raised the OC and retested starting at 1232 rpm and I got my original temps back.....seems one I had that 2 liters heated up, it was harder for the system to bring it back down.
> 
> 3. Side panels on / off in both instanced ?
> 
> 4. What fans are we talking about at 20 - 1--% .... rad fans ? How are you measuring speed ? Is the 12v feed plugged into the fan PCB ?


Nah just DW.

Thermal mass? So it's better to keep it at a higher overall fan speed then have a fan curve that ramps up more at the high end of heat?

Both on.

8x PH-F140SP fans ranging from about 500 - 2500 RPMs.

I'll try flushing the loop if it becomes an issue. I'm starting to think it's just the higher ambient temps probably and it was really cold when I built the rig.

And it's not like temps are bad. GPU is still running mostly under 40 and the processor is running 60 - 70.


----------



## pchangover

Ok I got my loop setup for leak testing. I apparently didn't order enough 45* fittings so I had to make the loop look a little unappealing until I can replace them. Any suggestions for improvements?



















Anybody think I'll have issues with this bend until I get another 45 fitting?


Also I'm having problems getting rid of this pesky air bubble in the cpu block. Any thoughts?


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *COMBO2*
> 
> Nah just DW.
> 
> Thermal mass? So it's better to keep it at a higher overall fan speed then have a fan curve that ramps up more at the high end of heat?
> 
> Both on.
> 
> 8x PH-F140SP fans ranging from about 500 - 2500 RPMs.
> 
> I'll try flushing the loop if it becomes an issue. I'm starting to think it's just the higher ambient temps probably and it was really cold when I built the rig.
> 
> And it's not like temps are bad. GPU is still running mostly under 40 and the processor is running 60 - 70.


On the mass thing....what I was getting at is starting out I had fans going full tilt..... I'd test for 15-20 minutes minutes and write down numbers...... when i turned down fan speeds to let MoBo control, I was wondering why fans weren't ramping up (GPU was 5C hotter but CPU hadn't change much .... duh) so I tried to bring down temps by manually taking fans up to full speed..... 20 minutes later had only dropped 2C...... let system cool down, and fans at fulll tilt again and it maintained original temps.

How'd you get the Phantekls fans to go at twice their rated speed ?

What I also shuda asked was ....same OCs ? my temps went up when I lowered GPU OC a bit.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pchangover*
> 
> Ok I got my loop setup for leak testing. I apparently didn't order enough 45* fittings so I had to make the loop look a little unappealing until I can replace them. Any suggestions for improvements?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anybody think I'll have issues with this bend until I get another 45 fitting?
> 
> Also I'm having problems getting rid of this pesky air bubble in the cpu block. Any thoughts?


<=== looks at these pics and runs downstairs to check all parts still there....

-Enthoo Primo .... still there.
-Alphacool 280 ... still there
-Reeven Six Eyes .... still there
-Supremacy CPU block .... still there
-EK Res 3 ... still there

Comments ....

1. I think I'd pull the lower HD cage rather than route tubes thru slots
2. I'd mount the Supremacy one hole above the other ...seems to do better according to testing at extremesystems.
3. Get the block horizontal ....bubble will go up the tube.
4. Consider CPU => Res (top feed) => Pump => Lower rad = GPU => Top rad => CPU


----------



## Maverickbp

Hey guys I have a few questions that I didn't see covered throughout this entire thread. This is my first attempt at water cooling so here goes.

1. Everything I've read has shown the front of the case CAN accept a 280mm radiator such as the XT45 barely but it will require slight modification to the 5 1/4 bays due to the height. A 240mm model would fit fine though without any modification. However the Alphacool ST30 is actually slightly shorter than an XT45 240mm and of course much thinner. Seems to me that would fit no? http://www.frozencpu.com/products/22071/ex-rad-658/Alphacool_NexXxoS_ST30_Full_Copper_Slim_Profile_Dual_140mm_Radiator.html?tl=g30c95s930

2. Do you think due to it's thin profile either the 280 or 240mm version could fit behind the hard drive caddies while still being able to keep the drives? ( I know the XT and especially the UT versions perform much better than this ST but it appears between 600-1000rpm it performs neck and neck with the other two and in scenarios where I couldn't fit the UT60 anyways, it's not too far off of the XT45's performance at 1400rpm. http://martinsliquidlab.org/2012/05/01/alphacool-nexxxos-st30-360-radiator/4/ )

4. That of course brings me to the question that may answer all of the above. What rpm's do you guys like to try and run your fans at? i will be cooling an 4770k and 2 R9 290's all overclocked. I would of course like to try and cool all three as quietly as possible. I will be most likely throwing an XT45 420mm up top and depending on your opinions for my above questions, may put an UT60 280mm in the bottom. If that's not enough cooling than I'll investigate putting a 240/280mm in the front of the case or behind the hard drive cages. I could of course use a 360mm in the bottom of the case but I'm thinking the difference between that and the 280mm shouldn't bee "too" much and oddly I'd like to stick with 140's all the way around if possible.

Your opinions on my setup is welcome. All radiator's will be in a push/pull configuration where possible. From everything I've read tje case fans do a nice job so will probably be using them on the radiator's. I did see the comment about the case fans but having the rubber spacers that come with the ones purchased separately.


----------



## pchangover

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> On the mass thing....what I was getting at is starting out I had fans going full tilt..... I'd test for 15-20 minutes minutes and write down numbers...... when i turned down fan speeds to let MoBo control, I was wondering why fans weren't ramping up (GPU was 5C hotter but CPU hadn't change much .... duh) so I tried to bring down temps by manually taking fans up to full speed..... 20 minutes later had only dropped 2C...... let system cool down, and fans at fulll tilt again and it maintained original temps.
> 
> How'd you get the Phantekls fans to go at twice their rated speed ?
> 
> What I also shuda asked was ....same OCs ? my temps went up when I lowered GPU OC a bit.
> <=== looks at these pics and runs downstairs to check all parts still there....
> 
> -Enthoo Primo .... still there.
> -Alphacool 280 ... still there
> -Reeven Six Eyes .... still there
> -Supremacy CPU block .... still there
> -EK Res 3 ... still there
> 
> Comments ....
> 
> 1. I think I'd pull the lower HD cage rather than route tubes thru slots
> 2. I'd mount the Supremacy one hole above the other ...seems to do better according to testing at extremesystems.
> 3. Get the block horizontal ....bubble will go up the tube.
> 4. Consider CPU => Res (top feed) => Pump => Lower rad = GPU => Top rad => CPU


Haha I told you I basically copied 80% of your build! I need more than 4 3.5" hard drive slots so for now I'll keep the bottom cage. I can definitely mount one above the other, does it matter if in is above out, or the other way? I've tried putting the block horizontal but the bubble keeps coming back. For the top feed res, I can't do that because I don't have that tube thing that goes inside of it, so it will be a lot of air being pushed into the loop.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pchangover*
> 
> Haha I told you I basically copied 80% of your build! I need more than 4 3.5" hard drive slots so for now I'll keep the bottom cage. I can definitely mount one above the other, does it matter if in is above out, or the other way? I've tried putting the block horizontal but the bubble keeps coming back. For the top feed res, I can't do that because I don't have that tube thing that goes inside of it, so it will be a lot of air being pushed into the loop.


Internal Tube 12/16 - 140mm (EK-RES-X3-TUBE-140) - Product 20/27$6.95
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_1165_1162&products_id=36312

Reservoir Top - EK X3 Reservoir Multiport Replacement Top - White (EK-RES X3 - Multiport TOP WHITE) - ex-res-481$16.99
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/18485/ex-res-481/EK_X3_Reservoir_Multiport_Replacement_Top_-_White_EK-RES_X3_-_Multiport_TOP_WHITE.html?id=4NiLmkLB&mv_pc=1254

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Maverickbp*
> 
> Hey guys I have a few questions that I didn't see covered throughout this entire thread. This is my first attempt at water cooling so here goes.
> 
> 1. Everything I've read has shown the front of the case CAN accept a 280mm radiator such as the XT45 barely but it will require slight modification to the 5 1/4 bays due to the height. A 240mm model would fit fine though without any modification. However the Alphacool ST30 is actually slightly shorter than an XT45 240mm and of course much thinner. Seems to me that would fit no? http://www.frozencpu.com/products/22071/ex-rad-658/Alphacool_NexXxoS_ST30_Full_Copper_Slim_Profile_Dual_140mm_Radiator.html?tl=g30c95s930
> 
> 2. Do you think due to it's thin profile either the 280 or 240mm version could fit behind the hard drive caddies while still being able to keep the drives? ( I know the XT and especially the UT versions perform much better than this ST but it appears between 600-1000rpm it performs neck and neck with the other two and in scenarios where I couldn't fit the UT60 anyways, it's not too far off of the XT45's performance at 1400rpm. http://martinsliquidlab.org/2012/05/01/alphacool-nexxxos-st30-360-radiator/4/ )
> 
> 4. That of course brings me to the question that may answer all of the above. What rpm's do you guys like to try and run your fans at? i will be cooling an 4770k and 2 R9 290's all overclocked. I would of course like to try and cool all three as quietly as possible. I will be most likely throwing an XT45 420mm up top and depending on your opinions for my above questions, may put an UT60 280mm in the bottom. If that's not enough cooling than I'll investigate putting a 240/280mm in the front of the case or behind the hard drive cages. I could of course use a 360mm in the bottom of the case but I'm thinking the difference between that and the 280mm shouldn't bee "too" much and oddly I'd like to stick with 140's all the way around if possible.
> 
> Your opinions on my setup is welcome. All radiator's will be in a push/pull configuration where possible. From everything I've read tje case fans do a nice job so will probably be using them on the radiator's. I did see the comment about the case fans but having the rubber spacers that come with the ones purchased separately.


Manual says 240, no 280 ....see pages 25-27

I have twin 780s overclocked 32% .... which I imagine will result in similar power consumption, maybe little less heat than your 290x's since the max OC I have seen on them (past uber mode) is about 7%. I also have the 4770k at 4.6 Ghz.....

I have a 280 on bottom and 420 on top and I can maintain a delta T of 10C with just 5 of the Phanteks fans in push at 1225 rpm .... max GPU Temp with fans full speed is 40C .... I generally run them at about 600-700 which lets temps on GPU climb to 45-46 under Furmark. Under RoG Real Bench, I can get CPU temp to 75C at 4.6 Ghz (fans climb to about 1000 rpm as PWM brings fans up with CPU temp).....no reductions in ring bus speed or anything else.

I was thinking I'd be adding a 2nd set of fans in pull and then figuring out how I was gonna squeeze in that rad in front.....At this point, due tot he performance I am seeing with just the 5 Phanteks fans, i see no reason to add anything. Outside of stress testing, I haven't had CPU past 60C or GPus above 35ish.


----------



## Maverickbp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> Manual says 240, no 280 ....see pages 25-27
> 
> I have twin 780s overclocked 32% .... which I imagine will result in similar power consumption, maybe little less heat than your 290x's since the max OC I have seen on them (past uber mode) is about 7%. I also have the 4770k at 4.6 Ghz.....
> 
> I have a 280 on bottom and 420 on top and I can maintain a delta T of 10C with just 5 of the Phanteks fans in push at 1225 rpm .... max GPU Temp with fans full speed is 40C .... I generally run them at about 600-700 which lets temps on GPU climb to 45-46 under Furmark. Under RoG Real Bench, I can get CPU temp to 75C at 4.6 Ghz (fans climb to about 1000 rpm as PWM brings fans up with CPU temp).....no reductions in ring bus speed or anything else.
> 
> I was thinking I'd be adding a 2nd set of fans in pull and then figuring out how I was gonna squeeze in that rad in front.....At this point, due tot he performance I am seeing with just the 5 Phanteks fans, i see no reason to add anything. Outside of stress testing, I haven't had CPU past 60C or GPus above 35ish.


I know what the manual says but I just remember jess stating a 280 could fit with slight modification to the 5 1/4 bay due to their height. However the ST30 280mm is actually shorter than a XT45 240mm which fits naturally so it seems to me the ST30 should fit as well unless there's something else I'm not factoring in.

Everything I've read has shown the 780's draw far less watts than a 290/290x. Most people are seeing 350-400w+ on their OC'ed 290's. Iirc the 780 was more in the 250-300w range(correct me if I'm wrong).

That's good to know though that you can save a bit of money by not needing to purchase 5 more fans and possibly another radiator. Guess I'd be wise to try a similar pull setup first before dumping more money on fans i may not need.


----------



## Maverickbp

Btw Jack I must say your build turned out amazing. I was looking at using the M6F as well. I don't suppose you took notes on the parts you used/dimensions of your cuts/etc so someone can make a similar build lol? I'd understand if you'd want to keep your unique. i just saw it and knew that's exactly how I'd like my first WC build to end up looking like.


----------



## ADragg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> <=== looks at these pics and runs downstairs to check all parts still there....
> 
> -Enthoo Primo .... still there.
> -Alphacool 280 ... still there
> -Reeven Six Eyes .... still there
> -Supremacy CPU block .... still there
> -EK Res 3 ... still there
> 
> Comments ....
> 
> 1. I think I'd pull the lower HD cage rather than route tubes thru slots
> 2. I'd mount the Supremacy one hole above the other ...seems to do better according to testing at extremesystems.
> 3. Get the block horizontal ....bubble will go up the tube.
> 4. Consider CPU => Res (top feed) => Pump => Lower rad = GPU => Top rad => CPU


Wait tip you see mine, Jack. They will be very, very similar, but look a lot different due to my fittings and soft tubing. I did steal a few of your ideas but most of it was just by chance. And arriving at some of the same conclusions as you after discussing things in this thread that made me decide to go one way or another.

Speaking of the CPU block, did you use the J2 jet? The EK manual with the block says you should use it for Haswell, and I think you have a 4770k as I do. The jet really made the block noticeably bowed out. I know that's by design but I'm curious if you used that J2 jet and noticed the same concave shape to face of the block.

I'm getting ready to finally turn my loop on for the first time. Getting a little nervous about the all of the little foreign objects that could have gotten into the loop. I was really careful and rinsed everything, etc, but I know there were plenty of opportunities for a little dust or a tiny piece of chipped off rubber tubing or whatever else to get in there undetected. Not to mention the radiators. I hope I flushed them enough. I feel like I could have rinsed and repeated for days and still gotten a tiny bit of particulates coming out each time. I'm sure the loop isn't completely clean, but I'm just gonna hope that some tiny pieces of debris can live in there and not do damage. I will obviously do some flushes before adding the Mayhems concentrate, too. And maybe the Primochill Sysprep will help a bit.

Fingers crossed this thing will run well and never leak! Midway teaser:


----------



## COMBO2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> On the mass thing....what I was getting at is starting out I had fans going full tilt..... I'd test for 15-20 minutes minutes and write down numbers...... when i turned down fan speeds to let MoBo control, I was wondering why fans weren't ramping up (GPU was 5C hotter but CPU hadn't change much .... duh) so I tried to bring down temps by manually taking fans up to full speed..... 20 minutes later had only dropped 2C...... let system cool down, and fans at fulll tilt again and it maintained original temps.
> 
> How'd you get the Phantekls fans to go at twice their rated speed ?
> 
> What I also shuda asked was ....same OCs ? my temps went up when I lowered GPU OC a bit.


That was a typo haha. I meant 250RPM - 1250RPM.

I might investigate this. Any particular cause to what you're referring to?


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Maverickbp*
> 
> Btw Jack I must say your build turned out amazing. I was looking at using the M6F as well. I don't suppose you took notes on the parts you used/dimensions of your cuts/etc so someone can make a similar build lol? I'd understand if you'd want to keep your unique. I just saw it and knew that's exactly how I'd like my first WC build to end up looking like.


Actually .... I don't mind at all. Look at the pic in my siggy....I saw that and that's exactly how I wanted my build to look like.

Though if ya do that, the question of front rad becomes moot .... ya just don't need it. I did a 3 hour Furmark stress test last night and with just the 5 rad fans on the 280 + 420, Delta T was < 10C....had side panels off tho.....dunno how much that would matter....then again....only have 3 of the 6 case fans plugged in.

I have posted the following previously:

*1. Single Line Diagram* - Flow Diagram showing location of all components, blocks, fittings, etc. w/ Parts List

*2. Parts List* - Spreadsheet containing part name, stock number, links, quantities, unit costs, total cost.

*3. Enthoo Dimensions* - CAD Drawing of all internal Enthoo Dimensions, clearances

*4. Subsystem parts Lists* - For drains for example

The only think I didn't do was record the acrylic lengths .... didn't think of it till about half way through. Each of the above needs to be edited post completions.

Guess I will do a build log .... but to get ya started .... I'll edit this post with each of the parts lists as I complete the edits. First off....better give ya a budget

PC Components (Newegg mostly) = $3,978.08 (doesn't include shipping)
Wire Budget (Newmark) = $110.52 (includes taxes and shipping)
Water Cooling Budget = $2,358.45

PartsListComponents.XLS 81k .XLS file


PartsListWaterCooling.XLS 81k .XLS file


PartsListWire.XLS 81k .XLS file


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Maverickbp*
> 
> I know what the manual says but I just remember jess stating a 280 could fit with slight modification to the 5 1/4 bay due to their height. However the ST30 280mm is actually shorter than a XT45 240mm which fits naturally so it seems to me the ST30 should fit as well unless there's something else I'm not factoring in.
> 
> Everything I've read has shown the 780's draw far less watts than a 290/290x. Most people are seeing 350-400w+ on their OC'ed 290's. Iirc the 780 was more in the 250-300w range(correct me if I'm wrong).
> 
> That's good to know though that you can save a bit of money by not needing to purchase 5 more fans and possibly another radiator. Guess I'd be wise to try a similar pull setup first before dumping more money on fans i may not need.


I remember this being bandied about but my weak recollection says no go..... well I think my conclusion was it required an effort / hacking that I was willing to undertake.

Yes, everything you will see published in 99% of the sites compares the stock 290x and the 780 .... a few like in Linus' 290x unboxing compared them "balls to the wall" and they got some surprising results.....I wasn't willing to sit thru Linus jabbering again for 10 minutes so skipped to the end and the power wasn't listed in the graphs






Stock the 780 is about 229 watts .... overclocked, it's reported at 289-ish....at about a 30% OC.

This may be where ya numbers are coming from as OCC showed "system load" of 415 not card consumption. Tweaktown got 448 as a' system draw" also

http://www.overclockersclub.com/reviews/powercolor_r9_290x_oc/17.htm
http://www.tweaktown.com/articles/5824/amd-radeon-r9-290x-4gb-overclocked-reference-video-card/index22.html

But as you can see on OCC / TT, it's about 24 - watts over the overclocked 780 (say 325ish) ....they got 10% on the core and 12% on the memory which given the aggressive overclock outta the box seems reasonable. TechPowerUp recorded 330 on the PowerColor OC'd model. Teaktown had the 780 system watts at 452....4 higher than the 290x

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ADragg*
> 
> Wait tip you see mine, Jack. They will be very, very similar, but look a lot different due to my fittings and soft tubing. I did steal a few of your ideas but most of it was just by chance. And arriving at some of the same conclusions as you after discussing things in this thread that made me decide to go one way or another.
> 
> Speaking of the CPU block, did you use the J2 jet? The EK manual with the block says you should use it for Haswell, and I think you have a 4770k as I do. The jet really made the block noticeably bowed out. I know that's by design but I'm curious if you used that J2 jet and noticed the same concave shape to face of the block.
> 
> I'm getting ready to finally turn my loop on for the first time. Getting a little nervous about the all of the little foreign objects that could have gotten into the loop. I was really careful and rinsed everything, etc, but I know there were plenty of opportunities for a little dust or a tiny piece of chipped off rubber tubing or whatever else to get in there undetected. Not to mention the radiators. I hope I flushed them enough. I feel like I could have rinsed and repeated for days and still gotten a tiny bit of particulates coming out each time. I'm sure the loop isn't completely clean, but I'm just gonna hope that some tiny pieces of debris can live in there and not do damage. I will obviously do some flushes before adding the Mayhems concentrate, too. And maybe the Primochill Sysprep will help a bit.
> 
> Fingers crossed this thing will run well and never leak! Midway teaser:


Looking forward to it.... I hid the flat side of the EK res putting iut tot he back but seeing yours, it looks nice. Steal away, it took about a month to do my build, would love to have been able to save some time ..... Jesse's work preceded mine and I found the information invaluable..... there's a 3 paragraph inscription on my pump plate dedicated to his efforts









I read about the curve thing when I was trying to figure out which plate was which .... labels wuda been nice. I didn't notice the curve the but I did use the J2. As to the debris.... I will ALWAYS use a clear block.... I was extremely careful flushing my stuff .... 5 gpm at good pressure alternating hot and cold to introduce thermal expansion contraction that I hoped would shake things loose.

But in the end, after 4 days on DW, I noticed that the CPU micro-channels were clogged with black crap ..... drained the loop and connected a drill pump (bad idea) to the CPU block outlet and was lucky in that it flushed all clean. Thankfully I also flushed the pump before usage as it spewed out a lotta **** but after I was done and disassembled everything I found a big wad of grease that they apparently lubed the pump gear with stick in the pump outlet. If ya ever use a pump like this, tear it down and see what may be floating around inside first. I have a great electric 120v pump..... my wife "put it away in a safe place so it wouldn't get lost" which of course means "we can't find it".


----------



## Maverickbp

Regarding the front rad I know the 290's pull some serious wattage so just wanted to know my options should I find I need more cooling. That and if I were to add a 3rd/4th card for mining/gaming.

Ya I've seen all your posts and thank you for compiling them. Mostly it was the acrylic lengths. Didn't know if you wrote them down or by looking at performancepc's if they were pre-cut. Also if you had any other comments/suggestions that went along with your build that one wouldn't know from just seeing the parts list/final result. I'll go through your stuff again.


----------



## Maverickbp

My god that's a part list after my own heart right there. Exactly how I would've done it and 100x more than I expected. Much appreciated.


----------



## shiv15

I can't decide how to direct the fans on the bottom 480. I originally planned on intake but I didn't give much thought to the corsair sp120 fans facing down. The rings are appealing to me and I was thinking of exhausting the bottom rad instead.

Other fans include :
1x 120 front intake
2x 120 back side on a 240mm rad intake
1x 120 exhaust on back
6x 140mm on top 420 rad in taking.

Will I be okay if the bottom 8 fans exhaust out the bottom versus intake?


----------



## 47 Knucklehead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shiv15*
> 
> Will I be okay if the bottom 8 fans exhaust out the bottom versus intake?


Depends. I wouldn't use faster than say 3450RPM, otherwise the case may start floating off the desk.









But seriously, it should be fine. I use bottom mounted fans on my wife's Switch 810 build blowing out the bottom, and there is no reason why you couldn't do the same with this case.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *COMBO2*
> 
> That was a typo haha. I meant 250RPM - 1250RPM.
> 
> I might investigate this. Any particular cause to what you're referring to?


I dunno .... I am back to original temps....even hit 39C last nite.

Here's some photos

I have 5 temp sensors (Top Rad In / Top Rad Out / Bottom rad In / Bottom Rad Out / Ambient) .... under GPU stress testing, I typically see 1.5C thru each of the two rads (Inlet to Outlet) .....if I turn fans down to 850 rpm, and let go for an hour, it can approach 4C from 1st rad inlet to 2nd rad outlet

I = Top Rad In
IV = Top Rad Out

II = Bottom Rad In
V = Bottom Rad Out

III = Ambient Air

Pic No. 1 = 2 minutes into Furmark .... 30.7 => 27.1 = 3.6C


Pic No. 2 = 4 minutes into Furmark .... 33.5 => 30.0 = 3.5C (fans at 675 rpm)


Pic No. 3 = 6 minutes into Furmark .... 36.3 => 32.8 = 3.5C (fans at 700 rpm)


Pic No. 4 = 8 minutes into Furmark .... 37.8 => 34.4 = 3.4C (fans at 725 rpm)


Pic No. 5 = 10 minutes into Furmark .... 38.6 => 35.1 = 3.5C (fans at 735 rpm)


Pic No. 6 = 20 minutes into Furmark .... 40.1 => 36.5 = 3.6C (fans at 760 rpm)


Pic No. 7 = 25 minutes into Furmark .... 36.4 => 32.6 = 3.8C (fans at 1218 rpm)


Pic No. 8 = 30 minutes into Furmark .... 33.1 => 29.6 = 3.5C (fans at 1228 rpm)


GPU temps peaked at 48C before i turned fans to full speed and dropped to 40C


----------



## Hereisphilly

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Maverickbp*
> 
> Hey guys I have a few questions that I didn't see covered throughout this entire thread. This is my first attempt at water cooling so here goes.
> 
> 1. Everything I've read has shown the front of the case CAN accept a 280mm radiator such as the XT45 barely but it will require slight modification to the 5 1/4 bays due to the height. A 240mm model would fit fine though without any modification. However the Alphacool ST30 is actually slightly shorter than an XT45 240mm and of course much thinner. Seems to me that would fit no? http://www.frozencpu.com/products/22071/ex-rad-658/Alphacool_NexXxoS_ST30_Full_Copper_Slim_Profile_Dual_140mm_Radiator.html?tl=g30c95s930
> 
> 2. Do you think due to it's thin profile either the 280 or 240mm version could fit behind the hard drive caddies while still being able to keep the drives? ( I know the XT and especially the UT versions perform much better than this ST but it appears between 600-1000rpm it performs neck and neck with the other two and in scenarios where I couldn't fit the UT60 anyways, it's not too far off of the XT45's performance at 1400rpm. http://martinsliquidlab.org/2012/05/01/alphacool-nexxxos-st30-360-radiator/4/ )


A 240 xt45 will just squeeze in behind the hard drive cages. You will need to punch some holes in the bottom of the ODD cage, as there is literally no room for tubing. Getting the xt also beneficial as it has inlets on the end of rad.
I wanted the exact thing you want, only using the phanteks 140mm fans, and I wanted the maximum amount of rads without compromising the capacity of the case

In the end I went with a 420 xt45 in push pull up top, 280 monsta push pull in the bottom, and a 240 xt45 in the front


----------



## pchangover

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> Internal Tube 12/16 - 140mm (EK-RES-X3-TUBE-140) - Product 20/27$6.95
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_1165_1162&products_id=36312
> 
> Reservoir Top - EK X3 Reservoir Multiport Replacement Top - White (EK-RES X3 - Multiport TOP WHITE) - ex-res-481$16.99
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/18485/ex-res-481/EK_X3_Reservoir_Multiport_Replacement_Top_-_White_EK-RES_X3_-_Multiport_TOP_WHITE.html?id=4NiLmkLB&mv_pc=1254
> .


Hmmm is there anyway to use that tube with the stock top? I see it does come in black, but that's an extra $17 towards a build that I've already blown the budget on hehe.
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/17769/ex-res-460/EK_X3_Reservoir_Replacement_Top_EK-RES_X3_-_Multiport_TOP.html?tl=g57c615s1884

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Maverickbp*
> 
> Hey guys I have a few questions that I didn't see covered throughout this entire thread. This is my first attempt at water cooling so here goes.
> 
> 1. Everything I've read has shown the front of the case CAN accept a 280mm radiator such as the XT45 barely but it will require slight modification to the 5 1/4 bays due to the height. A 240mm model would fit fine though without any modification. However the Alphacool ST30 is actually slightly shorter than an XT45 240mm and of course much thinner. Seems to me that would fit no? http://www.frozencpu.com/products/22071/ex-rad-658/Alphacool_NexXxoS_ST30_Full_Copper_Slim_Profile_Dual_140mm_Radiator.html?tl=g30c95s930
> 
> 2. Do you think due to it's thin profile either the 280 or 240mm version could fit behind the hard drive caddies while still being able to keep the drives? ( I know the XT and especially the UT versions perform much better than this ST but it appears between 600-1000rpm it performs neck and neck with the other two and in scenarios where I couldn't fit the UT60 anyways, it's not too far off of the XT45's performance at 1400rpm. http://martinsliquidlab.org/2012/05/01/alphacool-nexxxos-st30-360-radiator/4/ )
> 
> 4. That of course brings me to the question that may answer all of the above. What rpm's do you guys like to try and run your fans at? i will be cooling an 4770k and 2 R9 290's all overclocked. I would of course like to try and cool all three as quietly as possible. I will be most likely throwing an XT45 420mm up top and depending on your opinions for my above questions, may put an UT60 280mm in the bottom. If that's not enough cooling than I'll investigate putting a 240/280mm in the front of the case or behind the hard drive cages. I could of course use a 360mm in the bottom of the case but I'm thinking the difference between that and the 280mm shouldn't bee "too" much and oddly I'd like to stick with 140's all the way around if possible.
> 
> Your opinions on my setup is welcome. All radiator's will be in a push/pull configuration where possible. From everything I've read tje case fans do a nice job so will probably be using them on the radiator's. I did see the comment about the case fans but having the rubber spacers that come with the ones purchased separately.


I'm kind of in the same boat now. I'm going to be ordering a second 290 to do mining with and I'll be ordering another EK block for it. At that point I'd like to add another radiator to my battle-group but I'm not sure if I should go with a 240mm in the front or a single 140mm in the rear. I'd love to get a 280mm in there but I don't see that actually fitting.


----------



## pchangover

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hereisphilly*
> 
> A 240 xt45 will just squeeze in behind the hard drive cages. You will need to punch some holes in the bottom of the ODD cage, as there is literally no room for tubing. Getting the xt also beneficial as it has inlets on the end of rad.
> I wanted the exact thing you want, only using the phanteks 140mm fans, and I wanted the maximum amount of rads without compromising the capacity of the case
> 
> In the end I went with a 420 xt45 in push pull up top, 280 monsta push pull in the bottom, and a 240 xt45 in the front


So you ended up not trying the 280 in the front then? I'd love to try and keep the 140mm fans active so I might have to get a shroud or something if I do go with a 240mm... or try to do some modding to jam a 280mm in there. I think I'm going to do some measuring now lol.


----------



## Maverickbp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hereisphilly*
> 
> A 240 xt45 will just squeeze in behind the hard drive cages. You will need to punch some holes in the bottom of the ODD cage, as there is literally no room for tubing. Getting the xt also beneficial as it has inlets on the end of rad.
> I wanted the exact thing you want, only using the phanteks 140mm fans, and I wanted the maximum amount of rads without compromising the capacity of the case
> 
> In the end I went with a 420 xt45 in push pull up top, 280 monsta push pull in the bottom, and a 240 xt45 in the front


I just can't help but wonder if the ST30 280 will fit where you put your XT45 240. It's actually a few mm shorter and we know the 140mm fans work just fine there if they'd still be able to fit. At the lower rpm range martinlabs has the ST30 as the new king of low range rpm cooling. It's cheap to boot!


----------



## Hereisphilly

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pchangover*
> 
> So you ended up not trying the 280 in the front then? I'd love to try and keep the 140mm fans active so I might have to get a shroud or something if I do go with a 240mm... or try to do some modding to jam a 280mm in there. I think I'm going to do some measuring now lol.


Without some serious cutting I don't see a 280 going in the front, but be my guest if you want to try it!
You may have to re-drill the fan mounting holes
The front 240 will still work with the supplied blue led fans, there are 2 sets of fan mounting holes, so it works perfect.

I'm also debating adding another single 140 rear rad, just not sure if my single d5 is man enough for it..


----------



## Hereisphilly

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Maverickbp*
> 
> I just can't help but wonder if the ST30 280 will fit where you put your XT45 240. It's actually a few mm shorter and we know the 140mm fans work just fine there if they'd still be able to fit. At the lower rpm range martinlabs has the ST30 as the new king of low range rpm cooling. It's cheap to boot!


It may fit, but you need an xt45 due to the inlets being on the end so you can route tubing. There just isnt enough space with the cages there to get a fitting on the rad


----------



## Maverickbp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hereisphilly*
> 
> It may fit, but you need an xt45 due to the inlets being on the end so you can route tubing. There just isnt enough space with the cages there to get a fitting on the rad


Ah that's where my inexperience with water cooling comes into play. All I've been making sure to check is the height/width compatibility. Outlets/inlets & bleed/fill ports are something I'm still learning about.


----------



## Hereisphilly

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Maverickbp*
> 
> Ah that's where my inexperience with water cooling comes into play. All I've been making sure to check is the height/width compatibility. Outlets/inlets & bleed/fill ports are something I'm still learning about.


Dont worry about it mate, this was my first water build, but with alot of help here, things went out great. Its far better to plan it all out and ask questions than it is to buy everything and then find out none of it fits. Everything i planned worked out perfectly when it all came together.

This is what i had to do to get the tubing to work with an xt45. Note how tight it is but it does work great. those are 20mm holes too if you need to size it up



Any questions feel free to ask, PM me if you are unsure and want a 1st timers take on the whole thing


----------



## pchangover

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Maverickbp*
> 
> Ah that's where my inexperience with water cooling comes into play. All I've been making sure to check is the height/width compatibility. Outlets/inlets & bleed/fill ports are something I'm still learning about.


I actually think this guy might fit:
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/22071/ex-rad-658/Alphacool_NexXxoS_ST30_Full_Copper_Slim_Profile_Dual_140mm_Radiator.html?tl=g30c95s930

It's listed as 278mm in length and just measuring the space I have in the front of the enthoo I get a maximum clearance of 311mm from floor to the bottom of the 5 1/4 bays. It's definitely thin enough to fit in there. The only question is whether the fan mounts will line up with the front 140s. I might have to draw it out and mock it up. Does anyone have exact measurements for the 280mm ST30?

Also I'm referring to completely taking out the bottom drive cage so you can route tubing around without having to drill through the bay area.


----------



## Maverickbp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hereisphilly*
> 
> Dont worry about it mate, this was my first water build, but with alot of help here, things went out great. Its far better to plan it all out and ask questions than it is to buy everything and then find out none of it fits. Everything i planned worked out perfectly when it all came together.
> 
> This is what i had to do to get the tubing to work with an xt45. Note how tight it is but it does work great. those are 20mm holes too if you need to size it up
> 
> 
> 
> Any questions feel free to ask, PM me if you are unsure and want a 1st timers take on the whole thing


I may just do that and thank you. So you have to drill/dremel those holes? You obviously lost the use of that bay no? I'm going to need space for a blu-ray burner & possibly from what I hear 1-2 fan controllers like the Reeven? I know using a 420 up top will cost me one 5 1/4 bay. i have many hard drives which is why I don't want to lose any cages. If I have to lose the bottom cage for whatever, or in the future need to add a http://www.frozencpu.com/products/10060/cpa-294/Evercool_ARMOR_Dual_525_Drive_Bay_to_Triple_35_HDD_Cooling_Box_HD-AR-R-BK.html?tl=g34c147s238 to turn 2 5 1/4 bays into 3 3 1/2 slots, I'll need to have two additional bays remaining. If it ends up being not possible then so be it. I could always of course mod 1-2 hd's into those bays with some MacGyvering.

Where do you have your fill/bleed ports? Were they built into the 420 up top or the 280 in the bottom?


----------



## Maverickbp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pchangover*
> 
> I actually think this guy might fit:
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/22071/ex-rad-658/Alphacool_NexXxoS_ST30_Full_Copper_Slim_Profile_Dual_140mm_Radiator.html?tl=g30c95s930
> 
> It's listed as 278mm in length and just measuring the space I have in the front of the enthoo I get a maximum clearance of 311mm from floor to the bottom of the 5 1/4 bays. It's definitely thin enough to fit in there. The only question is whether the fan mounts will line up with the front 140s. I might have to draw it out and mock it up. Does anyone have exact measurements for the 280mm ST30?
> 
> Also I'm referring to completely taking out the bottom drive cage so you can route tubing around without having to drill through the bay area.


That's the rad i've been talking about. It's shorter than the 120mm variants and 33% thinner too! it's also pretty cheap and according to Martin;s is the new king of low rpm range cooling. Check out my link on the previous page.


----------



## pchangover

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Maverickbp*
> 
> That's the rad i've been talking about. It's shorter than the 120mm variants and 33% thinner too! it's also pretty cheap and according to Martin;s is the new king of low rpm range cooling. Check out my link on the previous page.


So sitting here staring at the front of my enthoo I'm not sure it'd work because of the way the connections jut out on the end of the rads, it adds height on that side and the way the 140mm fans sit in the frame on the case I don't know if there is enough room. If someone had exact measurements we'd be able to clear this up right away.


----------



## Maverickbp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pchangover*
> 
> So sitting here staring at the front of my enthoo I'm not sure it'd work because of the way the connections jut out on the end of the rads, it adds height on that side and the way the 140mm fans sit in the frame on the case I don't know if there is enough room. If someone had exact measurements we'd be able to clear this up right away.


Ya it may be too new of a radiator and most see 30mm and shy away. I'm sure some site around here will have it.


----------



## Hereisphilly

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Maverickbp*
> 
> I may just do that and thank you. So you have to drill/dremel those holes? You obviously lost the use of that bay no? I'm going to need space for a blu-ray burner & possibly from what I hear 1-2 fan controllers like the Reeven? I know using a 420 up top will cost me one 5 1/4 bay. i have many hard drives which is why I don't want to lose any cages. If I have to lose the bottom cage for whatever, or in the future need to add a http://www.frozencpu.com/products/10060/cpa-294/Evercool_ARMOR_Dual_525_Drive_Bay_to_Triple_35_HDD_Cooling_Box_HD-AR-R-BK.html?tl=g34c147s238 to turn 2 5 1/4 bays into 3 3 1/2 slots, I'll need to have two additional bays remaining. If it ends up being not possible then so be it. I could always of course mod 1-2 hd's into those bays with some MacGyvering.
> 
> Where do you have your fill/bleed ports? Were they built into the 420 up top or the 280 in the bottom?


Yeah you have to drill them out, and you would be hard pressed to find a man enough drill that can drive a 20mm drill bit and be able to get in the primo to do it. I used a steel hole punch after drilling a 3mm and then 10mm pilot hole.

Its an awesome tool as it cuts clean, no burred edges.

Yeah i lost the use of that bay once the tubing was in

and depedning on the route of your tubing you may lose the next one aswel. Couple that with the loss of the top one due to the top rad, leaves only 2 optical bays left. Not a problem for me hence why i did the mod in the 1st place.

I didnt get too excited about fill bleed and drain ports. My drain comes off my pump in the back (which is one of the lowest points anyway)

The barb on the valve that pokes out rotates vertical so i can get the door on, and if i need to drain i just attach a spare bit of tube to lead into a bucket.

I filled into the top of my tube res in the middle of the case


using one of these


and then i slightly loosened one of the plugs in the top rad when i needed to bleed it, but it wasn't that bad as i got the majority of the air out via the res, tilting the case, and adjusting the pump speed for about half an hour.

my build log is here if you want a look or more pics etc.
http://themodzoo.com/forum/index.php?/topic/1071-obelisk-1st-wc-build-phanteks-enthoo-primo/


----------



## Maverickbp

Nice I will check it out ty.


----------



## Maverickbp

Will these work?

Dimensions (LxWxH): 278 x 144 x 30 mm

Technical pdf drawing
http://www.alphacool.com/download/280-140-30.pdf


----------



## Hereisphilly

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Maverickbp*
> 
> Will these work?
> 
> Dimensions (LxWxH): 400x124x30mm
> Connection threads: 2×1/4"
> Mounting thread size: M3
> Pressure tested: 1.5bar
> Weight: 0,970kg


What size rad is that? 400mm seems pretty big for a 240 or 280 rad in the front. Its getting late -ish here in the UK, so I'll pop the door off tomorrow and measure up wherever you want it to go tomorrow


----------



## pchangover

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Maverickbp*
> 
> Will these work?
> 
> Dimensions (LxWxH): 400x124x30mm
> Connection threads: 2×1/4"
> Mounting thread size: M3
> Pressure tested: 1.5bar
> Weight: 0,970kg
> 
> Technical pdf drawing
> http://www.alphacool.com/download/120-360-30.pdf


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hereisphilly*
> 
> What size rad is that? 400mm seems pretty big for a 240 or 280 rad in the front. Its getting late -ish here in the UK, so I'll pop the door off tomorrow and measure up wherever you want it to go tomorrow


Yea those don't seem to be right. According to frozencpu it's less than 300mm long but according to this:
http://www.aquatuning.de/product_info.php/language/en/info/p15932_Alphacool-NexXxoS-ST30-Full-Copper-280mm.html

It's right over the 313mm clearance height I measured earlier. Measurements are all over the map so we need someone that actually has the ST30 280mm to verify. Anyone?


----------



## Maverickbp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hereisphilly*
> 
> What size rad is that? 400mm seems pretty big for a 240 or 280 rad in the front. Its getting late -ish here in the UK, so I'll pop the door off tomorrow and measure up wherever you want it to go tomorrow


Ya I got those from Martin's site and forgot it was for the ST30 120.3 sorry.


----------



## Maverickbp

I edited my post with the dimensions/technical drawing's from Alphacool's website but i agree having someone with it in hand to do measurements would be ideal.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

The 280mm ST30 is 317.5 mm (153.5mm + 164mm) acc'd to Alphacool. Is that the rad you all are talking about?
I wouldn't trust any measurements from anywhere else unless I was measuring it myself.

http://www.alphacool.com/product_info.php/info/p1247_Alphacool-NexXxoS-ST30-Full-Copper-280mm.html


----------



## Hereisphilly

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pchangover*
> 
> Yea those don't seem to be right. According to frozencpu it's less than 300mm long but according to this:
> http://www.aquatuning.de/product_info.php/language/en/info/p15932_Alphacool-NexXxoS-ST30-Full-Copper-280mm.html
> 
> It's right over the 313mm clearance height I measured earlier. Measurements are all over the map so we need someone that actually has the ST30 280mm to verify. Anyone?


I'll measure up tomorrow the space available for you guys and the dims of my xt 240 and we can go from there.
I think you may struggle however without some serious dremelling, as the specs from alphacool say that the 240 xt45 is (LxWxH):280x124x46mm

Now a 280 St30 is going to be a minimum of 280 long (2x140mm fans) and then some more for the end tanks. The Alphacool drawing lists it as 317mm long. From memory there wasnt much more room in the front when i put my rad in, but i will measure up for you guys tomorrow

Edit: haha, unicron beat me to it!


----------



## pchangover

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> The 280mm ST30 is 317.5 mm (153.5mm + 164mm) acc'd to Alphacool. Is that the rad you all are talking about?
> I wouldn't trust any measurements from anywhere else unless I was measuring it myself.
> 
> http://www.alphacool.com/product_info.php/info/p1247_Alphacool-NexXxoS-ST30-Full-Copper-280mm.html


Thank you! I somehow missed that on their site. So a total height of 317.5mm means we are about 4.5-5mm too short to fit it in there. Oh well. Looks like I'm stuck with a 240 rad


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shiv15*
> 
> I can't decide how to direct the fans on the bottom 480. I originally planned on intake but I didn't give much thought to the corsair sp120 fans facing down. The rings are appealing to me and I was thinking of exhausting the bottom rad instead.
> 
> Other fans include :
> 1x 120 front intake
> 2x 120 back side on a 240mm rad intake
> 1x 120 exhaust on back
> 6x 140mm on top 420 rad in taking.
> 
> Will I be okay if the bottom 8 fans exhaust out the bottom versus intake?


Well, you'll have to wrestle the logic battle between "hot air rises" and you exhausting in the other direction. Then again, that's the same wrestling match ya have with the top rad pulling air in.

I have noticed a rise in temps with just putting on the side panel for "the plumbing (left) side" of the build..... right side still a bird's best of wires so that's not on. I have the two front fans blowing in, the rear blowing out .... and two on the right side blowing out (yes in the panel that's unmounted) .... It's about 3C warmer inside the case even at idle.

I can see I have a battle going on with the two rad fans blowing in and air wanting to escape thru the bottom grille once case is all sealed up.....

5 rad fans blowing in
2 front fans blowing in
2 side fans blowing out
1 rear fan blowing out is 7 to 3.

Thinking of switching to ....

2 Bottom rad fans blowing in
2 Front fans blowing in
1 5.25 bay fan blowing in

2 side fans blowing out
1 rear fan blowing out
3 Top rad Fans blowing out

Wondering if any of the following is doable / beneficial

1. I can mount extra intake fans on case bottom .... shuda looked before I put all this crap in it








2. Adding two pull fans on bottom rad ...leaving top alone
3. Adding external fans.... looks like I can get one over expansion slots and one on rear where alt PSU wud exhaust.
4. Doubling up on 5.25 bay fan .... requires opening door
5. Reversing side fans


----------



## pchangover

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> Well, you'll have to wrestle the logic battle between "hot air rises" and you exhausting in the other direction. Then again, that's the same wrestling match ya have with the top rad pulling air in.
> 
> I have noticed a rise in temps with just putting on the side panel for "the plumbing (left) side" of the build..... right side still a bird's best of wires so that's not on. I have the two front fans blowing in, the rear blowing out .... and two on the right side blowing out (yes in the panel that's unmounted) .... It's about 3C warmer inside the case even at idle.
> 
> I can see I have a battle going on with the two rad fans blowing in and air wanting to escape thru the bottom grille once case is all sealed up.....
> 
> 5 rad fans blowing in
> 2 front fans blowing in
> 2 side fans blowing out
> 1 rear fan blowing out is 7 to 3.
> 
> Thinking of switching to ....
> 
> 2 Bottom rad fans blowing in
> 2 Front fans blowing in
> 1 5.25 bay fan blowing in
> 
> 2 side fans blowing out
> 1 rear fan blowing out
> 3 Top rad Fans blowing out
> 
> Wondering if any of the following is doable / beneficial
> 
> 1. I can mount extra intake fans on case bottom .... shuda looked before I put all this crap in it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 2. Adding two pull fans on bottom rad ...leaving top alone
> 3. Adding external fans.... looks like I can get one over expansion slots and one on rear where alt PSU wud exhaust.
> 4. Doubling up on 5.25 bay fan .... requires opening door
> 5. Reversing side fans


I've been struggling with the same idea. Hot air rises, so it makes more sense to me to have the top rad be exhaust rather than fight physics and have everything else intake. Has anyone tried comparing the enthoo with different configs like this?


----------



## shiv15

Well I went with the option of having the 480 fans point downward. Attached are some photos of the rad with fans, my drainport, and an ST30 on the side in push. It would easily fit an XT45 but I wanted to make sure I had enough space to run my tubing from the pump to the rad with no issues. The pump will be on the mount on the back side. Some of the pics show how much room there is back there.

I opted to use only one front intake fan to make a drain port off the radiator. As you can see, a second fan in that spot would largely be blocked by the rad anyways and I didn't feel it was worth it. I have a couple of mm clearance between the front vents and that drain port.

Word of advice to anyone using corsair fans, the cables are really short. Buy extensions

















Sorry about the finger smudges on the rad!


----------



## doyll

Step drill bits work great for holes in sheet metal up to 36mm. I prefer the longer steps like below.
4-22mm, 14-26mm, 12-28mm and 20-36mm


But there are others too
4-32mm


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pchangover*
> 
> So you ended up not trying the 280 in the front then? I'd love to try and keep the 140mm fans active so I might have to get a shroud or something if I do go with a 240mm... or try to do some modding to jam a 280mm in there. I think I'm going to do some measuring now lol.


There's no room for a shroud tho the mounting arrangement now pretty much necks in the 140mm dispersal area already.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Maverickbp*
> 
> I may just do that and thank you. So you have to drill/dremel those holes? You obviously lost the use of that bay no? I'm going to need space for a blu-ray burner & possibly from what I hear 1-2 fan controllers like the Reeven? I know using a 420 up top will cost me one 5 1/4 bay. i have many hard drives which is why I don't want to lose any cages. If I have to lose the bottom cage for whatever, or in the future need to add a http://www.frozencpu.com/products/10060/cpa-294/Evercool_ARMOR_Dual_525_Drive_Bay_to_Triple_35_HDD_Cooling_Box_HD-AR-R-BK.html?tl=g34c147s238 to turn 2 5 1/4 bays into 3 3 1/2 slots, I'll need to have two additional bays remaining. If it ends up being not possible then so be it. I could always of course mod 1-2 hd's into those bays with some MacGyvering.
> 
> Where do you have your fill/bleed ports? Were they built into the 420 up top or the 280 in the bottom?


The 420 on top won't let ya get a BR in there but even pushed froward to access the top ports but ya just might be able to get a Reeven in there. With the 420 pushed all the way back, no problem for the Reeeven. This is what I mean by "pulled forward"



Those are me fill and bleed ports (have 30mm Bitspower extensions and plugs on them.)

You could of course pick up an inch pushing it back and then drilling holes for the ports but back there access to the bottom for tube routing is likely gonna be affected by rear fan.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pchangover*
> 
> Hmmm is there anyway to use that tube with the stock top? I see it does come in black, but that's an extra $17 towards a build that I've already blown the budget on hehe.
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/17769/ex-res-460/EK_X3_Reservoir_Replacement_Top_EK-RES_X3_-_Multiport_TOP.html?tl=g57c615s1884
> I'm kind of in the same boat now. I'm going to be ordering a second 290 to do mining with and I'll be ordering another EK block for it. At that point I'd like to add another radiator to my battle-group but I'm not sure if I should go with a 240mm in the front or a single 140mm in the rear. I'd love to get a 280mm in there but I don't see that actually fitting.


With the stock top you can use the plain old Bitspower tube
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/11864/ex-tub-714/Bitspower_G_14_Matte_Black_Aqua-Pipe_I_BP-MBWP-C17.html?tl=c97s169b145

Tho..... no way to fill res past bottom of tube or let air trapped above bottom of tube.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Maverickbp*
> 
> Will these work?
> 
> Dimensions (LxWxH): 278 x 144 x 30 mm
> 
> Technical pdf drawing
> http://www.alphacool.com/download/280-140-30.pdf


Drawing says 317.5 .... didn't I read ya had 311 of space ? The vendor measurements are prolly rad only w/o the end chamber


----------



## Maverickbp

Ya I already had edited my post with measurements from Alphacool's site. I was using a vendor's site's measurements which apparently were pretty far off so ya it's a no go.


----------



## Maverickbp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> The 420 on top won't let ya get a BR in there but even pushed froward to access the top ports but ya just might be able to get a Reeven in there. With the 420 pushed all the way back, no problem for the Reeeven. This is what I mean by "pulled forward"


Well that's good to know I may not lose a 5 1/4 bay as long as I put a Reeven in the top spot. Sounds good to me. Thanks.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Maverickbp*
> 
> Well that's good to know I may not lose a 5 1/4 bay as long as I put a Reeven in the top spot. Sounds good to me. Thanks.


That's the Reeven in place with BR under it.....again, I don't seem to need the pull fans and w/o those, it woud be cake..... those tall silver thingies are the worry if ya move the 420 forward.



Here's the fill / bleed tube in place ... I have another 6" extension above the valve .... I used the silver fitting ya see under the silly blue shot glass sized funnel to mount a larger one on top of the 6" extension.


----------



## pchangover

So I'm probably going to pull the trigger on the 240mm ST30. Any thoughts on leaving the two 140mm phanteks in the front and using some very short screws to attach the ST30 to the 120mm fan mounts? I really like those front fans and would rather not put 2 120mm in there.


----------



## Hereisphilly

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pchangover*
> 
> So I'm probably going to pull the trigger on the 240mm ST30. Any thoughts on leaving the two 140mm phanteks in the front and using some very short screws to attach the ST30 to the 120mm fan mounts? I really like those front fans and would rather not put 2 120mm in there.


That's exactly what I did.
If you buy some M3 x 6mm screws they fit great with Alphacool rads.
Put the rad in place, then take the front fans out which exposes the fan mount holes behind them. Screw in the rad and then put the front fans back in!
http://s1002.photobucket.com/user/Hereisphilly/media/SDC11228.jpg.html


----------



## smokedawg

The Enthoo Primo was my first watercooled system and I didn't think about adding a drain & fill/bleed port (stupid me). Is there a way to add those afterwards without draining the loop?
I have a 480 rad in the bottom and was thinking if I lay the case on it's back the single front port of the rad should be the highest point in the loop and I could unscrew the plug and add a valve like shiv15 did a couple posts back. Am I wrong here? I am just asking since I tried losening one of the top screws in my 360rad mounted in the top of the case but I had some drops of coolant come out as soon as I did that although this was the highest point in the loop. I hope what I am asking makes sense. Here is my setup:


----------



## ADragg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smokedawg*
> 
> The Enthoo Primo was my first watercooled system and I didn't think about adding a drain & fill/bleed port (stupid me). Is there a way to add those afterwards without draining the loop?
> I have a 480 rad in the bottom and was thinking if I lay the case on it's back the single front port of the rad should be the highest point in the loop and I could unscrew the plug and add a valve like shiv15 did a couple posts back. Am I wrong here? I am just asking since I tried losening one of the top screws in my 360rad mounted in the top of the case but I had some drops of coolant come out as soon as I did that although this was the highest point in the loop. I hope what I am asking makes sense. Here is my setup:


You should be able to do that pretty easily. Be prepared for a little coolant to come out. I'd tape some paper towels up all around the area and remove power from the system just in case there's a disaster, but you shouldn't get much coolant coming out. As long as all of your other fittings are tight and the loop is sealed in all other openings, it should create enough of a vacuum to prevent coolant from coming out fast. Have your drain setup ready to quickly screw in and you should be able to do it without much coming out except for a little dripping, I'd think.

Did you never drain the system after building the loop though. You probably want to drain it once or twice after the loop has had a chance to run. Even if the radiators and blocks were already flushed. Just better to be safe and keep things as clean as possible. That's gonna be a waste of coolant but that's why it's a good idea to wait until everything is perfect and the loop has been flushed a couple times before you finally add the concentrate or dye. I've got DI water and Sysprep in mine right now and will be flushing it and then flushing it once again before I add the Mayhems Blue Berry.


----------



## smokedawg

Thanks for the reply. The few drops that did come out after losening the screw is what got me worried. If that's all there is coming out though I am less worried.
I haven't drained the loop yet. All I did was flushing the components multiple times before installing until there was no visible debris left.


----------



## bond32

Got my second d5 pump installed and running. Total overkill for cooling only the cpu and gpu but hey, that's why we are all here on this site right? I'll post pictures later.

I notice the tool-less 5.25 bay latches rattle, think I will take them all out. Anyone else had theirs make noise?


----------



## pchangover

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> Got my second d5 pump installed and running. Total overkill for cooling only the cpu and gpu but hey, that's why we are all here on this site right? I'll post pictures later.
> 
> I notice the tool-less 5.25 bay latches rattle, think I will take them all out. Anyone else had theirs make noise?


Speaking of a second d5. Do you think I'd need to a second d5 to my loop if I get another 290? It'd consist of the following:

EK Supremacy
EK 290X Block x 2
EK X3 250 Reservoir
Alphacool NexXxoS UT60 280mm
Alphacool NexXxoS XT45 420mm
Alphacool NexXxoS ST30 240mm

Also possibly thinking about adding an addition 140mm ST30.

I've got the Swiftech MCP655-PWM-DRIVE 12v Water Pump Module - PWM Enabled & the EK D5 X top.


----------



## bond32

No you are good with the one you have I think. 2 is complete overkill, only reason I got the second is that I had a good pump top and reservoir. Bought the d5 for a good price here in the market.


----------



## pchangover

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> No you are good with the one you have I think. 2 is complete overkill, only reason I got the second is that I had a good pump top and reservoir. Bought the d5 for a good price here in the market.


Cool thanks for the thoughts on it. There won't be much way of me knowing if my pump is inadequate because I don't want to spend $40 on a flow-meter, guess I'll just have to monitor temps.


----------



## bond32

I've run 3 7950 heat killer blocks, cpu block, and 3 radiators off 1 d5 before without issues. If you're concerned just reduce the elbows/fittings if you can, especially at the pump inlet/outlet.

Since yours is pwm it's different, but I'd run mine at full speed and watch temps. If they are good for me I'll slowly drop the price speed until the temps start to drop.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

I think you'd be just fine ..... with just the one pump and just the 2 rads ....... I grabbed the 35x2 just so I could run at low speeds and have redundancy


----------



## pchangover

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> I've run 3 7950 heat killer blocks, cpu block, and 3 radiators off 1 d5 before without issues. If you're concerned just reduce the elbows/fittings if you can, especially at the pump inlet/outlet.
> 
> Since yours is pwm it's different, but I'd run mine at full speed and watch temps. If they are good for me I'll slowly drop the price speed until the temps start to drop.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> I think you'd be just fine ..... with just the one pump and just the 2 rads ....... I grabbed the 35x2 just so I could run at low speeds and have redundancy


Ok sounds good. I'll just stick with a single pump for now. Thanks guys!


----------



## chrisnyc75

Do you ever find yourself reading water cooling build logs of users with other cases and the extensive mods they do to try to fit a second 360 in, on, or near their case and think to yourself "hmm, why didn't they just get a Enthoo Primo?"









Things that make ya go hmmmmmmm.


----------



## Hereisphilly

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chrisnyc75*
> 
> Do you ever find yourself reading water cooling build logs of users with other cases and the extensive mods they do to try to fit a second 360 in, on, or near their case and think to yourself "hmm, why didn't they just get a Enthoo Primo?"
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Things that make ya go hmmmmmmm.


Especially when the cost of the case is the same or more than a Primo!
Makes me laugh every time!


----------



## Maverickbp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chrisnyc75*
> 
> Do you ever find yourself reading water cooling build logs of users with other cases and the extensive mods they do to try to fit a second 360 in, on, or near their case and think to yourself "hmm, why didn't they just get a Enthoo Primo?"
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Things that make ya go hmmmmmmm.


Do you ever check on another person's "YOLO" build on another site periodically waiting for the promised updates only to be disappointed each time?

Oh wait....







jk


----------



## chrisnyc75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Maverickbp*
> 
> Do you ever check on another person's "YOLO" build on another site periodically waiting for the promised updates only to be disappointed each time?
> 
> Oh wait....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> jk


LMAO!! Oh s*#t, I got called out! lol

It's coming, I promise. I set aside time to get it all organized and uploaded last weekend, but ran into some pc trouble that was completely unrelated to the build and wasn't able to get online. Gonna try to get the pics uploaded this week.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hereisphilly*
> 
> Especially when the cost of the case is the same or more than a Primo!
> Makes me laugh every time!


To me the Enthoo is like that perfect mid size SUV ....

-reasonable cost
-fits in everyone and everything I need
-has options for more stuff
-comes with extras an options usually found only on more expensive cars
-has options no one else has ....included in base price.
-good mileage .... not so big that it eats up too much desk space
-I agonized a lot about 'would everything it" but in the end it did.

But yes, Enthoo II needs another inch of depth and another 15mm or so of width.....just in case I have another kid .... (will require new, younger trophy wife mod)

Actually I compare it to the Asus Maximus X Formula ..... no, it won't do 4 x SLI or 64 GB but it has the best of everything to offer for an 2x SLI or 2x CF rig.


----------



## 47 Knucklehead

Well, if anyone is interested, I just got my LED's in and started to replace the stock blue ones with "Amber" (I was hoping they would be a bit more orange, but oh well).

Per the other "How To" link from another Phantek owner, I went with the NFLS-SS-x300-1/2M series 30 High Power LED Super Slim Flexible Light Strip. Unlike MOST other LED strips, this will fit in the channel where the stock blue on sits because it is only 5mm wide. You can get it in 6 different colors.

Popping the top lens off the case isn't that hard, just TAKE YOUR TIME and be GENTLE, so as to not break any of the 12 little clips off.



Here is a shot with my LED work lights on over my desk.



Here they are with the lights off.


----------



## bond32

Has anyone replaced the LED's in the stock 140mm fans? I might do that... Hate all the blue, especially when my build is now leaning towards orange.


----------



## chrisnyc75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> Has anyone replaced the LED's in the stock 140mm fans? I might do that... Hate all the blue, especially when my build is now leaning towards orange.


No, but when I was still considering changing the front LED strip color I did note that it would be easy enough to turn off the fan LEDs and stick a LED light stick behind them to achieve basically the same effect without the trouble of soldering new LEDs on the fans.

If you do decide to change the fan LEDs, please take pics and let us know how it works out. I'd be curious if it's maybe less trouble than I think.


----------



## Gunilla95

Nobody that had luck with finding RGB strips for the channel where the blue one is?
Hate to be locked to only one color


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> Has anyone replaced the LED's in the stock 140mm fans? I might do that... Hate all the blue, especially when my build is now leaning towards orange.


Not a Broncos fan ?


----------



## jassilamba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gunilla95*
> 
> Nobody that had luck with finding RGB strips for the channel where the blue one is?
> Hate to be locked to only one color


Problem is the width of the channel, its only about 6mm wide at the best. It would be nice if Phanteks would make a custom RGB strip and fans for the Enthoo.


----------



## chrisnyc75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jassilamba*
> 
> Problem is the width of the channel, its only about 6mm wide at the best. It would be nice if Phanteks would make a custom RGB strip and fans for the Enthoo.


That would be amazing, would really be the 'cherry on top' that sets the Enthoo apart in a class of its own.


----------



## 47 Knucklehead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gunilla95*
> 
> Nobody that had luck with finding RGB strips for the channel where the blue one is?
> Hate to be locked to only one color


Nope. That was my first thought. Narrowest I found for RGB was 10mm.


----------



## adino

Is anyone using the EK D5 X-Top with the case's bracket? The holes don't seem to line up and I've got it in there with a single screw right now...


----------



## pchangover

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *adino*
> 
> Is anyone using the EK D5 X-Top with the case's bracket? The holes don't seem to line up and I've got it in there with a single screw right now...


I am and I'm doing the same thing lol. I don't move the pc around much so one screw is fine as long as it's tight.


----------



## Gunilla95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jassilamba*
> 
> Problem is the width of the channel, its only about 6mm wide at the best. It would be nice if Phanteks would make a custom RGB strip and fans for the Enthoo.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *47 Knucklehead*
> 
> Nope. That was my first thought. Narrowest I found for RGB was 10mm.


Then i think im gonna sold my own RGB strip with 5 mm LEDs, i can buy them here in sweden so thats nice.









hows the hight in the channel?


----------



## COMBO2

Any ideas for mounting a Photon tube res in this case on the bracket?

I had double sided tape holding it on, but it's actually collapsed twice. Nothing major but I would feel much more comfortable having a secure mounting mechanism. Do I HAVE to screw holes in the bracket?

I'm hoping I can find like almost a bracket adapter to the res from the mount..


----------



## Terminus14

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *COMBO2*
> 
> Any ideas for mounting a Photon tube res in this case on the bracket?
> 
> I had double sided tape holding it on, but it's actually collapsed twice. Nothing major but I would feel much more comfortable having a secure mounting mechanism. Do I HAVE to screw holes in the bracket?
> 
> I'm hoping I can find like almost a bracket adapter to the res from the mount..


This has been discussed in here a few times already. Just a couple pages back. Industrial strength velcro is your friend. Strong enough to hold and decouples the res from the case a little as an added benefit.


----------



## jassilamba

@Doyll - Can we update the OP for this thread, and include some FAQ info up there so that people don't have to dig through the posts and find answers.


----------



## chrisnyc75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *COMBO2*
> 
> Any ideas for mounting a Photon tube res in this case on the bracket?
> 
> I had double sided tape holding it on, but it's actually collapsed twice. Nothing major but I would feel much more comfortable having a secure mounting mechanism. Do I HAVE to screw holes in the bracket?
> 
> I'm hoping I can find like almost a bracket adapter to the res from the mount..


I drilled new holes for mine. I figure no matter how my build changes in the future, the bracket is either going to be covered by a mounted reservoir, covered by the mounting panel frontplate, or left out altogether, so a few extra holes don't make any material aesthetic difference (the same rationale I used for dremel'ing the bottom edge to fit with my SLI setup). Kinda tricky to get the holes lined up perfectly, though.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jassilamba*
> 
> @Doyll - Can we update the OP for this thread, and include some FAQ info up there so that people don't have to dig through the posts and find answers.


Great idea!









Very busy at the moment so if someone could put together the list list of questions with answers I'll put it up.


----------



## chrisnyc75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Great idea!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Very busy at the moment so if someone could put together the list list of questions with answers I'll put it up.


Just link it to Jesse's FAQ for now, most of the important stuff is covered there anyway.


----------



## doyll

I don't think that's quite fair to OCN. If I have a forum and someone did that I wouldn't be happy.


----------



## doyll

Okay.

Jessilamba kindly said we could use his FAQ here.
Thanks Jesse!









Now
If there are any other FAQ & answers please PM me with FAQ on top line and answer below (same format as in FAQ are) and I will add it to the list crediting it with your user name.


----------



## 47 Knucklehead

The replacement side panel and LED plexi cover that was damaged in shipping just arrived from Phantek. It arrived perfect and promptly (they wrapped it REALLY well). I must say, their customer support is VERY GOOD.


----------



## doyll

There support is next to none.








Have contacted them many times sense the TC14PE was released. First time was to get the PWM adapter. Only problem I've had was when email got lost once. When I tried a week later there was a reply in less than 2 hours. Usually hear back in a few days.

This last time it was 2 days... but haven't got final answer and it's been a week now... They are checking out what the load limit of fan hub is. It's often hard to find technical data. Might even take another week or so to find out.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *COMBO2*
> 
> Any ideas for mounting a Photon tube res in this case on the bracket?
> 
> I had double sided tape holding it on, but it's actually collapsed twice. Nothing major but I would feel much more comfortable having a secure mounting mechanism. Do I HAVE to screw holes in the bracket?
> 
> I'm hoping I can find like almost a bracket adapter to the res from the mount..


While you could use the industrial-strength velcro, drilling holes would really be the best way to go.

Getting the holes where you need them is pretty easy for the Photon. Just remove the 4 screws to take the back mounting plate off of the res, and then line it up where you want the res on the bracket and use the other (threaded) holes as a template to mark where the holes need to be. To do the marking the little brush from some 'wite-out' / 'liquid-paper'(correction fluid) comes in handy, then you just need a 4mm / 1/8 drill bit to do the drilling.


----------



## COMBO2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Terminus14*
> 
> This has been discussed in here a few times already. Just a couple pages back. Industrial strength velcro is your friend. Strong enough to hold and decouples the res from the case a little as an added benefit.


I didn't even think of that!

Off to the hardware store I go!


----------



## COMBO2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> While you could use the industrial-strength velcro, drilling holes would really be the best way to go.
> 
> Getting the holes where you need them is pretty easy for the Photon. Just remove the 4 screws to take the back mounting plate off of the res, and then line it up where you want the res on the bracket and use the other (threaded) holes as a template to mark where the holes need to be. To do the marking the little brush from some 'wite-out' / 'liquid-paper'(correction fluid) comes in handy, then you just need a 4mm / 1/8 drill bit to do the drilling.


I would prefer to try the velcro first because if it does work, I've saved myself the time and effort drilling little holes.









I also prefer the idea of velcro as it's much more easily removable in terms of the res then screws.


----------



## Roxycon

Would the possibility to add the extra 360 like i did be FAQ worthy?

Have a 85 mm rad in the bottom and a 45 mm rad in the top with three sets of fans and still ~5 mm of room between the rads and my 360, just used velcro to secure it


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *COMBO2*
> 
> I would prefer to try the velcro first because if it does work, I've saved myself the time and effort drilling little holes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also prefer the idea of velcro as it's much more easily removable in terms of the res then screws.


Yeah, I understand. Do be sure to clean the res and the case pretty good with alcohol before applying the industrial strength velcro to make sure it adheres solidly, and that stuff will hold it. I've seen a few short ~6-8" strips used to mount a 32" tv to the wall and after a yr or so hanging there it didn't want to let go. We thought we were either going to break the TV, or rip a hole in the wall, or both. We eventually managed to get it loose by using a long flat prybar like roofers use to remove shingles.

fwiw, I'll be using the velcro too, but, as I explained quite a few posts back already, not-so-much because I would really mind drilling holes, but because I'm mounting a Photon 270 D5 pump combo and I'm hoping the velcro will afford me some decoupling and be quieter than if I mounted it solidly to the bracket. That's the working theory anywho.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roxycon*
> 
> Would the possibility to add the extra 360 like i did be FAQ worthy?
> 
> Have a 85 mm rad in the bottom and a 45 mm rad in the top with three sets of fans and still ~5 mm of room between the rads and my 360, just used velcro to secure it


Sounds good. Write it up as a FAQ and I'll put it in.










Only potential problem is as FAQ get bigger getting peeps to use search function to find what they want in FAQ.


----------



## jassilamba

I think I have figured out a RGB solution for the front and top panel LED. Ordered me a new strip and a controller, should be here Monday. Will update the guide with how to get RBG in the panels.


----------



## doyll

Sweet!
Is it real RGB in one LED or individual red, green and blue LEDs?


----------



## 47 Knucklehead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jassilamba*
> 
> I think I have figured out a RGB solution for the front and top panel LED. Ordered me a new strip and a controller, should be here Monday. Will update the guide with how to get RBG in the panels.


Well, don't leave me hanging. Where did you get the RGB LED strips?

I was planning on working on mine this weekend, but if I can get a look/link at what you ordered, I may hold off. I already have the controller.

USB-LED-1 RGB LED Controller

The narrowest I could find was some 3 chip 5050 SMD LED strips that were 8.1mm wide. or these 5050 SMD that are 5.2mm

The narrowest 1 chip 3528 SMD was 8.05mm strips.


----------



## jassilamba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *47 Knucklehead*
> 
> Well, don't leave me hanging. Where did you get the RGB LED strips?
> 
> I was planning on working on mine this weekend, but if I can get a look/link at what you ordered, I may hold off. I already have the controller.
> 
> USB-LED-1 RGB LED Controller


My solution is based around the good ole 5050 LED strips. My quick test was successful last night. I actually might post a lil quick guide later tonight that will explain what I did (should be enough for most users). I will also be finally making a video on the RGB with Bill today so that we can get that uploaded on the youtubes.


----------



## chrisnyc75

Oh man, just when I thought my Enthoo build was finished, Jesse's gotta go tempting me with new ideas! LOL Can't wait to see what you've got up your sleeve now!


----------



## chrisnyc75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *47 Knucklehead*
> 
> The narrowest I could find was some 3 chip 5050 SMD LED strips that were 6.8mm wide. or these 5050 SMD that are 5.2mm
> 
> The narrowest 1 chip 3528 SMD was 8.05mm strips.


I don't think those are widths, I think the measurement you're looking at is depth. I believe that website is expressing the dimension as Length x Width x Depth

I don't think you're going to find a 6mm RGB strip


----------



## 47 Knucklehead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chrisnyc75*
> 
> I don't think those are widths, I think the measurement you're looking at is depth. I believe that website is expressing the dimension as Length x Width x Depth
> 
> I don't think you're going to find a 6mm RGB strip


You are most likely right on the 5050 @ 5.2mm. I just saw the "Dimensions: 500cm(196.85") x 1.6cm(0.63") x 0.52cm(0.2")"


----------



## chrisnyc75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *47 Knucklehead*
> 
> You are most likely right on the 5050 @ 5.2mm. I just saw the "Dimensions: 500cm(196.85") x 1.6cm(0.63") x 0.52cm(0.2")"


Yeah, I think that's 16mm wide and 5.2mm deep (probably measured at the thickest junctions)


----------



## 47 Knucklehead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chrisnyc75*
> 
> Yeah, I think that's 16mm wide and 5.2mm deep (probably measured at the thickest junctions)


Yup, sadly you're right. Still the narrowest RGB I've managed to find (especially ones with singled 3528 tri-color LEDs is the 8.05mm ones. That's going to be hard to beat, without hand wiring up your own.


----------



## Killa Cam

hey guys, what is the fan model # that comes with the case? hows the performance such as airflow and silence? do you guys think the new phantek 140mm fans provide good enough static pressure for rads? i have a 420 black ice sr1 rad and im looking for 140mm fans to pair up with.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

From everything I have read and experienced, they are the best rad fan on the market right now. They certainly are the best fan for air coolers.

Rear, Top and Bottom fans
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/21848/fan-1270/Phanteks_140mm_x_25mm_UFB_Bearing_PWM_Fan_-_Black_Frame_White_Blade_PH-F140SP-BK.html?tl=c15s775b207

Front Fans
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/21849/fan-1271/Phanteks_140mm_x_25mm_UFB_Bearing_PWM_LED_Fan_-_Black_Frame_White_Blade_Blue_LED_PH-F140SP-BK-BLED.html?tl=c331s877b207

While in last year's air cooler roundup, the 120s crushed the 140s in this test this year the 140's swept the floor with the 120's taking 4 of the top 5 spots. Air coolers present a tougher challenge than rads due tot he tighter fin spacing.

http://www.silentpcreview.com/article1345-page7.html
Quote:


> The Phanteks PH-F140HP/TS is the clear winner in every respect. It edged out the new Noctuas every step of the way, delivering the best overall results of any fan we've tested thus far. To top it off, it had cleanest, smoothest sound of all the new fans in this roundup. If we had to start from scratch, this might be our new reference model.


The fan tested in the SPCR test is the same blades, bearing and motor but has a different mounting frame. The did a 2nd round where an Antec fan edged out the Phanteks in thermal performance by hair but it's motor made that annoying ticking sound.

http://www.hitechlegion.com/reviews/cooling/heatsinks/37419-phanteks-f140?showall=&start=3
Quote:


> It often feels like Phanteks can do no wrong. Time after time, they deliver products that are either clearly top of their class, or merely arguably the top of their class. The new breed of fans, the 140XP and SP, do nothing to change that. Construction and performance are spot on, while noise to air movement is excellent. I have been fortunate enough to have been using seven of these in a build for the last month, and time has done nothing but make me like them more.
> 
> As case fans, the 140SP and 140XP are very controlled, and able to move excellent amounts of air through the case. This would be expected given the specs, but what is not expected is how quietly they manage to do this. First off, there is no discernible mechanical noise from either iteration of the fan. The bearing is dead silent, and there is no ticking, buzz or hum often associated with PWM present in the 140XP. The other factor is the actual pitch of the fan, which is lower than most 140mm fans we have encountered. There is no whine or high pitches of any kind. This makes the 140SP and XP far less intrusive even at higher speeds. At lower speeds, the air movement is substantial, but even in the front intake position there is no real discernible noise until ~850rpm, and they never become distracting when pushed beyond that.
> 
> While the fans are essentially the same with PWM added to the F140XP, that also adds some perks. The PWM control allows the F140XP to be run all the way down to 300rpm for absolute silence. The lower speeds also allow the static pressure to increase ~15%, making them an excellent choice for 140mm factor radiators. The 140SP serves very, very well on radiators also with good static pressure and low noise.


----------



## Killa Cam

i saw that review, but i wanted someone here who has experience using the fans with rads. i see they have a pwm version as well, do you think its worth the extra for the pwm version?


----------



## jassilamba

After playing with my RGB idea a bit I have some good news. RGB mod for the front panel is possible and I will upload a quick dirty guide up tomorrow followed by a nice video tutorial.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using Tapatalk


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Killa Cam*
> 
> i saw that review, but i wanted someone here who has experience using the fans with rads. i see they have a pwm version as well, do you think its worth the extra for the pwm version?


Not really ... the Phanteks PCB makes PWM kinda irrelevant.

I'm cooling a 4770k @ 4.6 Ghz and twin 780s at 20 - 35% OC's ...and I'm seeing a Delta T of about 10C with Furmark / RoG RealBench at 1200 rpm ...at 600 rpm I go to about 15C ...and that's just with 5 fans in push on a 280 + 420.


----------



## Radmanhs

just wondering, can you fit a rad in the front or side if you use a 480 in the bottom?

Thanks!


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radmanhs*
> 
> just wondering, can you fit a rad in the front or side if you use a 480 in the bottom?
> 
> Thanks!


http://www.overclock.net/t/1418637/phanteks-enthoo-primo-owners-club/1860_20#post_21349144


----------



## ADragg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Killa Cam*
> 
> i saw that review, but i wanted someone here who has experience using the fans with rads. i see they have a pwm version as well, do you think its worth the extra for the pwm version?


Similar to Jack, I am running a 4770k and GTX 780 and the same rad setup as his (top and bottom Alphacool 45 and 60 mil), and these fans are awesome. I ordered more of them for my build even though I had plenty of Corsair's to make it work. The Corsairs are decent, but I like the Phanteks a lot better. I'm getting CPU and GPU idle/average temps of about 34 C and 22 C respectively, and have yet to see the CPU go much passed 60 C even under 99 percent load, and during BF4 on Ultra the GTX 780 runs at 38 C or less. Those are pretty good temps in my opinion. And that's with just one set of fans per rad. Meaning NOT in push/pull. I think I'll get another set of fans for p/p just for looks and maybe the option to turn the fans down to slower for even quieter operation. I don't know if the extra fans would make enough extra noise to counteract the benefit, or what. I guess there's two schools of thought on that subject. I can probably run my fans and pump quite a bit slower and be fine, though. A GTX 780 doesn't NEED to run at 22 degrees C. I just like it to







It would be interesting to see how silent I could make this PC and still keep the GPU under 50 and the CPU under 70. But yes, I definitely recommend them for radiators and general case fans.


----------



## Radmanhs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Radmanhs*
> 
> just wondering, can you fit a rad in the front or side if you use a 480 in the bottom?
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1418637/phanteks-enthoo-primo-owners-club/1860_20#post_21349144
Click to expand...

thanks, he says you could easily fit something like an xt45, but can you put a st30 in push/pull? which way would you get better performance?


----------



## JackNaylorPE

XT45 = 45 mm rad + 25mm fan = 70mm

ST30 = 30mm rad + 2 x 25mm fans = 80mm


----------



## Radmanhs

yes, i know there is a 10 mm difference, but it doesnt say anywhere exactly what you could fit...


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radmanhs*
> 
> yes, i know there is a 10 mm difference, but it doesnt say anywhere exactly what you could fit...


Oh I thot yu had the case already. I have my cages in the forward position so not an easy measurement for me. But the mounting screws are about 43-44 nmm apart and by eyeballing it, the cages are about 3-4mm from the existing fan mounts....gives ya maybe 46-48 mm.

Ya could put an XT45 in there and then another set of Phanteks 27mm fans in pull on the other side if the HD bays but I dont see aST30 + 25mm fan .... there are thinner fans

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/19755/fan-1241/Phobya_120mm_x_15mm_G-Silent_12_Slim_Edition_1800_RPM_Fan_.html?tl=g36c15s1969
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/21916/fan-568/Scythe_Slip_Stream_120mm_x_12mm_Fan_-_1200_RPM_SY1212SL12L.html?tl=g36c15s972

Another option would be a 27mm thick pull fan on just the lower position after taking out the HD bays or putting ya HDs up top in the 3.5" bays and then sticking in anything ya want.


----------



## 47 Knucklehead

Ok, dumb question ...

What voltage LEDs should I get to replace the 2 blue LEDs for the power switch?

3.3V, 5V, 12V?

I'm GUESSING the 5V ones, like this ...

Tailed Amber 3mm LED w/ 2-Pin Mobo Header Connector

But before I go an order several and pay more in shipping than the actual item (I'll order some other goodies too), I just want to make sure. Also, just to make sure they are the standard 3mm LED size.


----------



## bond32

I actually think they are 12V, someone needs to chime in to be sure. The molex connecting them only uses the 2 on one side which is 12V.

Anyone know if its possible to order those 2 pin connectors?


----------



## 47 Knucklehead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> I actually think they are 12V, someone needs to chime in to be sure. The molex connecting them only uses the 2 on one side which is 12V.


Well, just to be sure, because I've heard all three at one time or another, I measured it and the voltage going to the back of the LED was 2.68V DC.

So it looks like 3.3V 3mm LEDs will work good. 5V ones MIGHT work, but they will be dim.

I found some orange 3mm 3.3V LEDs for $0.24 a pop, but shipping to me will be $6.









I have to place another order with FrozenCPU for my new build and my wife's build so I went ahead and ordered 2 3mm 5V Amber LEDs from them. So once I get them, I'll hook them up and see how they look.

Odds are the 3.3V ones will be the brightest, but 5V might be "good enough" and will answer the pressing question that Phantek owners have (and give them options).


----------



## jassilamba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *47 Knucklehead*
> 
> Ok, dumb question ...
> 
> What voltage LEDs should I get to replace the 2 blue LEDs for the power switch?
> 
> 3.3V, 5V, 12V?
> 
> I'm GUESSING the 5V ones, like this ...
> 
> Tailed Amber 3mm LED w/ 2-Pin Mobo Header Connector
> 
> But before I go an order several and pay more in shipping than the actual item (I'll order some other goodies too), I just want to make sure. Also, just to make sure they are the standard 3mm LED size.


3.3V is what I used, or in other words, just standard 3mm LEDs. No resistors needed.

Same for the HDD activity LED, in terms of size and forward current.


----------



## 47 Knucklehead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jassilamba*
> 
> 3.3V is what I used, or in other words, just standard 3mm LEDs. No resistors needed.
> 
> Same for the HDD activity LED, in terms of size and forward current.


What is odd is that depending on the site you look at, some sites are saying that motherboards use 5V and that many of the LEDs from popular water cooling sites also use 5V and next to none use 3.3V (for example, FCPU and PPC).

For example: http://www.frozencpu.com/products/15113/ele-1045/Tailed_Amber_3mm_LED_w_2-Pin_Mobo_Header_Connector_LED-3T-A.html?tl=g6c455s1602
Quote:


> Tailed 3mm Amber LED ready to use on any standard case. Can be used for power LED or hard disk drive activity. Simply plug into the HDD LED, PWR LED. 16 inches to accommodate any cd rom, case light or any bezel out there. They are ready to go and all wired, just plug them in!!
> 
> Power Dissipation: 120 mW
> Peak Foward Current: 100 mA
> Continuous Foward Current: 30 mA
> Reverse Voltage: 5 V
> Operating Temperature Range: -20°C to 80°C
> Storage Temperature Range: -30°C to 100°C
> Lead Soldering Temperature: 260°C for 3 sec.
> Luminous Intensity: 2500 mcd
> Viewing Angle: 15°
> Forward Voltage: 3.50 V
> Reverse Current: 100 ìA
> Connection: 2 Pin (separated)


Ah well, I'll soon find out.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *47 Knucklehead*
> 
> Ok, dumb question ...
> 
> What voltage LEDs should I get to replace the 2 blue LEDs for the power switch?
> 
> 3.3V, 5V, 12V?
> 
> I'm GUESSING the 5V ones, like this ...
> 
> Tailed Amber 3mm LED w/ 2-Pin Mobo Header Connector
> 
> But before I go an order several and pay more in shipping than the actual item (I'll order some other goodies too), I just want to make sure. Also, just to make sure they are the standard 3mm LED size.


Putting my meter on the Connector in the Enthoo that says LED Strip gives me a bit over 12V .... take a peek at page 11 in the manual.


----------



## 47 Knucklehead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> Putting my meter on the Connector in the Enthoo that says LED Strip gives me a bit over 12V .... take a peek at page 11 in the manual.


I didn't measure there. I measured right at the Cathode and the Anode of the single blue LED at the power button.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *47 Knucklehead*
> 
> I didn't measure there. I measured right at the Cathode and the Anode of the single blue LED at the power button.


Hey i did what was accessible .... I wasn't gonna go in there









I also got 12v on one of the LED fan headers ....


----------



## bond32

Redid my loop today. Downsized, selling off my 360 and 120 rad to hopefully get a thick 280. Think that will be better size wise, had planned to just do two thick 480's at first.


----------



## jassilamba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *47 Knucklehead*
> 
> What is odd is that depending on the site you look at, some sites are saying that motherboards use 5V and that many of the LEDs from popular water cooling sites also use 5V and next to none use 3.3V (for example, FCPU and PPC).
> 
> For example: http://www.frozencpu.com/products/15113/ele-1045/Tailed_Amber_3mm_LED_w_2-Pin_Mobo_Header_Connector_LED-3T-A.html?tl=g6c455s1602
> Ah well, I'll soon find out.


That makes sense, as the voltage that you measured on the power button LED is from the motherboard header. I could be wrong but personally I think that is designed to operate a standard 3.3V LED. I can see companies selling 5V leds as prevents the risk of having a motherboard that supplies higher current than around 3V. A 5V led on a 3V source is not an issue, but if you put in a 3V on a 5V source, pretty sure we all know what happens then.

On my X79 Dark, the 3.3V LEDs have been working fine no issues.


----------



## 47 Knucklehead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jassilamba*
> 
> A 5V led on a 3V source is not an issue, but *if you put in a 3V on a 5V source, pretty sure we all know what happens then.*


Muzzle FLASH?


----------



## jassilamba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *47 Knucklehead*
> 
> Muzzle FLASH?


Hahah, perfect example...


----------



## Gunilla95

So My paycheck came in today.
so finally i will get my enthoo. it will arrive on wednesday!


----------



## 47 Knucklehead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gunilla95*
> 
> So My paycheck came in today.
> so finally i will get my enthoo. it will arrive on wednesday!


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jassilamba*
> 
> That makes sense, as the voltage that you measured on the power button LED is from the motherboard header. I could be wrong but personally I think that is designed to operate a standard 3.3V LED. I can see companies selling 5V leds as prevents the risk of having a motherboard that supplies higher current than around 3V. A 5V led on a 3V source is not an issue, but if you put in a 3V on a 5V source, pretty sure we all know what happens then.
> 
> On my X79 Dark, the 3.3V LEDs have been working fine no issues.


I guess that explains why my CPU Block LEDs don't work (used the Fan LED # 6)


----------



## shiv15

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radmanhs*
> 
> thanks, he says you could easily fit something like an xt45, but can you put a st30 in push/pull? which way would you get better performance?


You can fit an XT45 in push. I think adding a pull fan will be cutting it very close if you have a 480 in the bottom. If it will fit, the fans will be touching the 480. I can't see the benefit of no airflow exiting the fan.









You can do push/pull with an ST30. You will have roughly 13-14mm of clearance from the fan to the radiators with a pull fan. I may eventually add another set of fans but this was an area I skimped on in my blown budget.

Here is a photo with a 25MM fan in there to give you an idea of clearance.


----------



## Radmanhs

ok, the pic makes sense, but im a little confused, is the one on the left the side and the right the 480?

which rad is which?

Thanks


----------



## ADragg

Still need to do upload quite more pics and write some info on my build, but here's a little something to keep fresh pics in this thread










As you can see, gold is a part of my color scheme and I actually got some of the carbon fiber wrap stuff that people often use in their builds (especially on the sides of radiators) and Im thinking of take out the Phanteks logo in the little window, covering that panel in the gold carbon fiber wrap and then installing the Phanteks badge back in it's place with some white lighting as well as possibly my Samsung 840 Pro SSD in that window. So instead of seeing a dark Phanteks badge through the window, you'd see a gold carbon fiber background all lit up with the badge and maybe the SSD (which I think fits the aesthetic of the case since the SSD is flat black with beveled polished edges just like the front intake fan cover/plate). Not sure about the SSD, though. It might look too gaudy or flashy or whatever but it could also be really cool. I just think the Samsung 840 Evo and Pro SSD's look really nice.

Anyway, I'll add more pics and details later.


----------



## doyll

My guess is less airflow with push/pull because the 13-14mm gap is only about 18sq cm airflow area compared to 120mm fan being about 100sq cm airflow area.. less than 1/5th the area of fan.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

I'm gonna say the pic is looking down at the 480 and the one against the front fans is on the left


----------



## shiv15

The clear fan is on the st30. The red fan is the 480. The photo was taken from a top down perspective.


----------



## Radmanhs

ok, thanks just making sure


----------



## Gunilla95

So goys got my Enthoo primo today.
been testing around and layed in my Leds for test. they are not fully installed yet.


----------



## pchangover

So I got my rig up and running finally after pulling a few 12 hour nights this past weekend. I had to cut the reservoir bracket with aluminum clippers to fit the 3x 290s and re-drill the mount holes for the res but I covered the cut with some electrical tape and you really can't tell. The rig has been mining litecoin solid for 2 days now and the 2x 290s that are underwater run at 51C full tilt and the one not under water is 83C which is pretty awesome for that card. Water temp is at 100F so hopefully that's pretty good. I still want to do some better cable management, some color schemes and get lights in there but she is purring like a kitten for now:








This was taken through the window really quickly:


----------



## chrisnyc75

Very nice, pchangover.







We should start a "messy but effective mod club" for Enthoo Primo reservoir bracket mod'ers like us! lol


----------



## doyll

Some edging and a good polish it will as good as new.. maybe even better!


----------



## pchangover

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chrisnyc75*
> 
> Very nice, pchangover.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We should start a "messy but effective mod club" for Enthoo Primo reservoir bracket mod'ers like us! lol


You gotta do what you gotta do! We honestly shouldn't have had to modify it all and it's a huge oversight from Phanteks. Who spends $250+ on case that's made for watercooling but doesn't have at least 2 cards these days? I'm sure a lot of people have a single card but many of us have multiple cards. The case is already enormous, just make it another few mm longer or make the 5 1/4 bay a few mm shorter.


----------



## bond32

I only have one but plan to eventually have 4 r9 290's...

I just cleaned all the filters on my case. Haven't cleaned them since I got the case which was when it was released. The front grill was the worst, not really easy to clean. Just a heads up for you guys.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> I only have one but plan to eventually have 4 r9 290's...
> 
> I just cleaned all the filters on my case. Haven't cleaned them since I got the case which was when it was released. The front grill was the worst, not really easy to clean. Just a heads up for you guys.


What made it hard to clean?


----------



## bond32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> What made it hard to clean?


Just that whole front grill that covers the factory blue led fans. Aside from taking it apart, the majority of the dust was on the grill not the filter.


----------



## chrisnyc75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pchangover*
> 
> You gotta do what you gotta do! We honestly shouldn't have had to modify it all and it's a huge oversight from Phanteks. Who spends $250+ on case that's made for watercooling but doesn't have at least 2 cards these days? I'm sure a lot of people have a single card but many of us have multiple cards. The case is already enormous, just make it another few mm longer or make the 5 1/4 bay a few mm shorter.


I think the case's dimensions are almost perfect as-is (a few mm taller to allow more clearance for a top radiator might be nice), but the reservoir bracket should have been straight down at the bottom, exactly as you mod'ed yours to be. Like you said, who's buying a Enthoo Primo to put just one graphics card in it?


----------



## pchangover

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> I only have one but plan to eventually have 4 r9 290's...
> 
> I just cleaned all the filters on my case. Haven't cleaned them since I got the case which was when it was released. The front grill was the worst, not really easy to clean. Just a heads up for you guys.


I hope you have an extra $450 in your budget for waterblocks for those extra 3 cards lol, you're going to need them. I have 2 of my 3 under water and the third is boiling at 86C. My main mining rig that has 3x290s in open air with a box fan sit at 85C... these suckers get hot. I actually burned the crap out of my finger trying to move one of the cards in my miner lol.


----------



## bond32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pchangover*
> 
> I hope you have an extra $450 in your budget for waterblocks for those extra 3 cards lol, you're going to need them. I have 2 of my 3 under water and the third is boiling at 86C. My main mining rig that has 3x290s in open air with a box fan sit at 85C... these suckers get hot. I actually burned the crap out of my finger trying to move one of the cards in my miner lol.


Yeah, I meant over the course of a while I would like to have a few more lol. Def not all at once...


----------



## pchangover

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> Yeah, I meant over the course of a while I would like to have a few more lol. Def not all at once...


Well I'm sure you'll be able to grab some cheap 290s once the mining craze calms down. As long as I'm coming out with a small profit over power I'm keeping mine but the Europeans might be bailing soon with high power costs and the LTC price plummet.


----------



## doyll

I was thinking filter. I can see how it would be a pain to get into the slot and clean the grille.

Ed Hume (ehume here) removed the grille in his review case:
Quote:


> For our next trick, let us pop off the front plate. You get it off by pushing on those little arrowheads in the middle of the case's front. The arrowheads are on a decal, so you can remove it when you are ready. Now that we have it off, we can consider the overkill that went into making this item. It is made of five pieces in four layers: fine mesh filter, plastic frame/bracket, steel grill, aluminum plates (frame and center). The whole assembly weighs 633-grams (1 lb. 7 oz.). That's overkill. The filter is held on with six screws and with four clips. Trust me, you want to remove those screws so you can un-clip the filter for cleaning. As for myself, I removed the steel grill to free up airflow.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not only does the grill block a lot of air, but in my opinion the front looks fine without it.


http://www.overclockers.com/phanteks-enthoo-primo-full-tower-case-review

Jesse (themodzoo) changed grilles on his. Now calling himsef 'Captain CurrySauce'... That's scary!








http://themodzoo.com/forum/index.php?/topic/865-the-primo-first-wc-enthoo-primo-build/


----------



## bond32

Interesting... I think I'll keep mine as is, I like the look. But it def restricts airflow a lot...


----------



## chrisnyc75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> Interesting... I think I'll keep mine as is, I like the look. But it def restricts airflow a lot...


Yes, but the 16 other fans I have in the case probably make up for it. LOL

btw, where are the pressure points to remove the grille? I must have discarded the decal with the arrows on it when I first got the case.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pchangover*
> 
> You gotta do what you gotta do! We honestly shouldn't have had to modify it all and it's a huge oversight from Phanteks. Who spends $250+ on case that's made for watercooling but doesn't have at least 2 cards these days? I'm sure a lot of people have a single card but many of us have multiple cards. The case is already enormous, just make it another few mm longer or make the 5 1/4 bay a few mm shorter.


I spoke to Phanteks at length in that regard .... don't forget that when the case was under development, there were no 290/290x's. It does fit just about everything once air cooler was removed .... but I had indicated that it doesn't fit the 780 lightning and some of the other enthusiast configurable cards .... of course with the 290 being considered more of a mainstream card, I'm sure they'd rethink their position.

But yes, I was told a Res Bracket 2 is already "in the works" back in the 1st week of November as they must have had a lot of feedback on that....

Also requested for Enthoo Secundo ? (Enthoo II ) was .....

...enough space on the bottom to fit l140mm wide rads 420s)
...enough space on the top to fit UT60s (For sure .... many times they will fit
...enough depth so ya could fit those cards with 80mm reservoirs and get Push / pull on a UT60 in front


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> I only have one but plan to eventually have 4 r9 290's...
> 
> I just cleaned all the filters on my case. Haven't cleaned them since I got the case which was when it was released. The front grill was the worst, not really easy to clean. Just a heads up for you guys.


All looks pretty easy to clean to me, but then again I won't be taking anything apart other than the push-click to remove the filters. I'll just be taking them outside & blasting the dust off of them with an air compressor blow gun ...



I'll also roll the entire cases outside every so often and then and blow them completely out. Great for blowing the dust out of rads too. Have to be a little careful doing that though, like don't blow too hard / too close at the copper fins on a rad or remember to hold fan blades from spinning, as just blowing on a fan with an air compressor can pretty easily over-spin what their bearings can handle. I killed the fan in a PSU like that once.

I guess you could do pretty much the same thing with a datavac, but with the price those things are going for these days you'd be so much better off to buy a small tank air compressor (new ones from campbell hausfeld or central pneumatics can be had for ~$50) which would have a LOT more air pressure than a datavac, and then you could also use small pneumatic tools, like an impact wrench, air ratchet, orbital sander, high-pressure paint gun, air up a car tire, etc.


----------



## Terminus14

First shipment of watercooling bits came in. I knew the Monsta 480 was large but I didn't realize quite _how_ large!

G. Changer 420 is big too just, not in comparison to the Monsta..

Alphacool packaged their radiator better than Phoyba did theirs but both pale in comparison to EK's packaging on my 780's nickel block.

Things are getting exciting around here!


----------



## Gunilla95

been working on my case.
what do you think guys? pressed in a 5050 RGB in the channel..


----------



## rpjkw11

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gunilla95*
> 
> been working on my case.
> what do you think guys? pressed in a 5050 RGB in the channel..


I really like that! Gives me ideas for my Primo. Thanks.


----------



## Gunilla95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rpjkw11*
> 
> I really like that! Gives me ideas for my Primo. Thanks.


thank you i had to take out the plastig strip that makes the light even and then i the 5050 fitted on the hight then i glued it on the side.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gunilla95*
> 
> been working on my case.
> what do you think guys? pressed in a 5050 RGB in the channel..
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Nice!









Do you have any pics of putting the 5050 in? Maybe a tutorial of how you did it?


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chrisnyc75*
> 
> btw, where are the pressure points to remove the grille? I must have discarded the decal with the arrows on it when I first got the case.


The pressure points to remove the front panel are shown on page 19 of the manual.. along with the instructions for the filter.


----------



## Gunilla95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Nice!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Do you have any pics of putting the 5050 in? Maybe a tutorial of how you did it?


I took somepics now so you can see a little atleast.

  

and i made a simple molex for the cable. the IR Diod got signal trough the Grid ( hope its called that ) just left of there.


----------



## doyll

Sweet!









Same RGB controller I have with 44 key remote but my strip is the waterproof one. Supposed to diffuse the light better but also thicker and stiffer. Will give it a try.

Thanks for the info.


----------



## Gunilla95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Sweet!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Same RGB controller I have with 44 key remote but my strip is the waterproof one. Supposed to diffuse the light better but also thicker and stiffer. Will give it a try.
> 
> Thanks for the info.


wut that is the waterproof one?








you need a little ruff love to get it trough the bent and then the hole. and taking of the whole panel helps also getting it trough.
and cut in to lenght after its really hard to messure it before you lie it in the channel. thats my experience.
Good luck mate!


----------



## doyll

Thanks!








Just hope 5m is enough for everything in the case.


----------



## Gunilla95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just hope 5m is enough for everything in the case.


i used about 4m.

the route I have in the case and then the front and top on that.

EDIT: I know im the best at paint!


----------



## doyll

Looks similar to my plan. Case is raised on castor base so plan to have at least one strip on bottom. Not sure if one along middle will be enough but will find out.

Also thinking of some lights in right side of case too for display purposes when side cover is off.

Edit:
And behind front vent.


----------



## 47 Knucklehead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gunilla95*
> 
> been working on my case.
> what do you think guys? pressed in a 5050 RGB in the channel..


Very nice!

Where did you get the strip that fits?

Ah, I see what you did ... you pulled the white plastic "dispersion" insert out to get more room in there and cocked the LEDs a bit. So I'm guessing they are like 8mm wide strips?


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *47 Knucklehead*
> 
> Very nice!
> 
> Where did you get the strip that fits?


I believe Gunilla95 just used regular 10mm wide 5050 RGB and managed to cram it in there by leaving out the Enthoo Primo's light diffuser strip.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gunilla95*
> 
> been working on my case.
> what do you think guys? pressed in a 5050 RGB in the channel..
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gunilla95*
> 
> thank you i had to take out the plastig strip that makes the light even and then i the 5050 fitted on the hight then i glued it on the side.


----------



## clinkoutin

As a side note I've been told the first stock of new F140HP cooler fans is expected next month.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> I guess you could do pretty much the same thing with a datavac, but with the price those things are going for these days you'd be so much better off to buy a small tank air compressor (new ones from campbell hausfeld or central pneumatics can be had for ~$50) which would have a LOT more air pressure than a datavac, and then you could also use small pneumatic tools, like an impact wrench, air ratchet, orbital sander, high-pressure paint gun, air up a car tire, etc.


here's mine



one on da right


----------



## Coppermonkey

So I'll be getting this case in January for my new build and for at least 6-7 months I'll be running my build on air until I can get together the cash for the loop that I want (versus a budget loop that I may hate) and I was wondering from those of you who already own the case, what do you think of the airflow? Any quirks with this case that you didn't like? From the reviews and videos I've seen this case seems to be one of the closest things to a perfect case I've seen but obviously I'm hesitant to believe that (too good to be true etc etc). Anything that bothered you from the get go that you replaced afterwards?


----------



## Gunilla95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *47 Knucklehead*
> 
> Very nice!
> 
> Where did you get the strip that fits?
> 
> Ah, I see what you did ... you pulled the white plastic "dispersion" insert out to get more room in there and cocked the LEDs a bit. So I'm guessing they are like 8mm wide strips?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> I believe Gunilla95 just used regular 10mm wide 5050 RGB and managed to cram it in there by leaving out the Enthoo Primo's light diffuser strip.


Yes its the 1cm one it fitted perfectly in hight when i took out the light deffuser you got like 1 cm with it takin out.


----------



## jassilamba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gunilla95*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *47 Knucklehead*
> 
> Very nice!
> 
> Where did you get the strip that fits?
> 
> Ah, I see what you did ... you pulled the white plastic "dispersion" insert out to get more room in there and cocked the LEDs a bit. So I'm guessing they are like 8mm wide strips?
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> I believe Gunilla95 just used regular 10mm wide 5050 RGB and managed to cram it in there by leaving out the Enthoo Primo's light diffuser strip.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Yes its the 1cm one it fitted perfectly in hight when i took out the light deffuser you got like 1 cm with it takin out.
Click to expand...

I was doing the same idea to implement RGB for the front panel.

A standard 5050 strip works like a charm in that configuration. If you want more light just sand down the diffuser to allow the strip to be mounted on the side. Alternatively you can use some alu insulation tape to act as a reflector.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using Tapatalk


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jassilamba*
> 
> I was doing the same idea to implement RGB for the front panel.
> 
> A standard 5050 strip works like a charm in that configuration. If you want more light just sand down the diffuser to allow the strip to be mounted on the side. Alternatively you can use some alu insulation tape to act as a reflector.
> 
> Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using Tapatalk


You are up early! What is it.. like 5 or 6am there? Dark 30 any way you look at it.


----------



## jassilamba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *jassilamba*
> 
> I was doing the same idea to implement RGB for the front panel.
> 
> A standard 5050 strip works like a charm in that configuration. If you want more light just sand down the diffuser to allow the strip to be mounted on the side. Alternatively you can use some alu insulation tape to act as a reflector.
> 
> Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using Tapatalk
> 
> 
> 
> You are up early! What is it.. like 5 or 6am there? Dark 30 any way you look at it.
Click to expand...

5am is normal wake up time for me. I just don't get active on forums this early. But it's 6 am here right now (Central time).

Other than that I'm ready for the long weekend.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jassilamba*
> 
> 5am is normal wake up time for me. I just don't get active on forums this early. But it's 6 am here right now (Central time).
> 
> Other than that I'm ready for the long weekend.


Yeah, it's noon here. Just puttering on my Primo. Someday I might get it built.









Have a great weekend!


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Coppermonkey*
> 
> So I'll be getting this case in January for my new build and for at least 6-7 months I'll be running my build on air until I can get together the cash for the loop that I want (versus a budget loop that I may hate) and I was wondering from those of you who already own the case, what do you think of the airflow? Any quirks with this case that you didn't like? From the reviews and videos I've seen this case seems to be one of the closest things to a perfect case I've seen but obviously I'm hesitant to believe that (too good to be true etc etc). Anything that bothered you from the get go that you replaced afterwards?


I love this case, BUT, there are a few quirks I could point out.

(1) The reservoir bracket has clearance limitations for longer cards, especially those mounted in lower slots. That's been discussed-to-death here already though.

(2) Make sure you push-click to remove the front fan filter grill before trying to remove the whole front of the case. The case front pops off by pulling outward at the bottom, but if you don't remove the fan filter grill first you will be very likely to ruin the two little push-click doohickeys that hold the filter grill in. Those things are fairly fragile and don't take too kindly to having the front filter grill just come flying straight out, which it will do when the front of the case is removed if you haven't properly removed it already. It only takes once, maybe twice of doing that before neither of those push-click thingies will go in and stay in anymore, and then you won't be able to put the front filter grill back on at all until you contact Phanteks support and have them send you a couple new ones. Been there. Done that. And so have a few others here too.

I personally think the case should come with a handful of extras of those push-click things as they are also used elsewhere throughout the case. If they were available anywhere for purchase separately, and perhaps they are but I'd never find them as I don't even know what to call them, I'd for sure buy about a dozen of them just so if/when another of them quits working I won't have to do the whole back and forth again with Phanteks support.

(3) And this 3rd one is a pretty big deal imho that hasn't really been discussed here to much yet. The bottom has an airflow design flaw imho. The rubber case feet only create a 3mm gap around the bottom (with weight on it it's more like 2.5mm tbh) and even when you add to that the openings in the back, front & right side and tiny bit on the left side where the bottom filters pop out, if mounted on a solid surface there's only about the square cm equivalent of roughly a single 120mm fan for airflow into or out of the bottom of the case. That's pretty bad, considering that's where many, myself included, are mounting radiators much larger than 120mm x 120mm. And it's much worse if someone mounts it on a carpeted surface as there would likely be almost no airflow to the bottom of the case at all.

If you are planning on having anything more than the 140mm fan that comes mounted down at the bottom, I would STRONGLY advise only setting the case on a solid surface and adding some sort of case feet / pads / wheels to lift the case a little more off the ground. That ~3mm gap should be increased to 13mm or more for a 280 or 360 rad and 18mm or more for a 480. Or, you could go the route Doyll took which was to create a rolling platform with the bottom cutout for airflow.

(4) A few have complained that the case window makes noises as it expands / contracts. All I can say about that is mine hasn't done any such thing (yet). From the descriptions of it I suspect it may only be an issue for some while the case is new.

What did I leave out?


----------



## Roxycon

The cable management grommets are fragile

Cant say anything for aircooling unless that the phanteks fans are loud and move a lot of air


----------



## bond32

My case window still creaks. Had mine since release, it creaks and makes all kinds of noise, quite annoying.


----------



## Biafra1987

Hi there! I just recently became an owner of this amazing case. Must say I am a big fan of the overall experience. It is the type of case that you love more and more the longer you have it. I have a modest watercooling set inside that I am planning to expand soon. A big tube-rez will be the first thing to implement. So far it is a 2500k @4.8, 16gb corsair vengeance, EVGA 680 and a xonar d2. Loop consists of alphacool rads (240/4,5cm push and 280/3cm push/pull), koolance blocks and fittings and BQ SW2, phanteks and eloop fans. All fans run at 800RPM. I have mayhems aurora 2 (beta) running in the loop for two months now as part of the beta-testing crew







(no issues whatsoever- all seems like it will be a great coolant for extended use in this revision). Grab some photos, hope you'll enjoy














And a movie of Aurora 2 in action


----------



## chrisnyc75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Biafra1987*
> 
> Hi there! I just recently became an owner of this amazing case. Must say I am a big fan of the overall experience. It is the type of case that you love more and more the longer you have it. I have a modest watercooling set inside that I am planning to expand soon. A big tube-rez will be the first thing to implement. So far it is a 2500k @4.8, 16gb corsair vengeance, EVGA 680 and a xonar d2. Loop consists of alphacool rads (240/4,5cm push and 280/3cm push/pull), koolance blocks and fittings and BQ SW2, phanteks and eloop fans. All fans run at 800RPM. I have mayhems aurora 2 (beta) running in the loop for two months now as part of the beta-testing crew
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (no issues whatsoever- all seems like it will be a great coolant for extended use in this revision). Grab some photos, hope you'll enjoy
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And a movie of Aurora 2 in action


Very nice build & pics.

I gotta be honest, I'm drooling just a little at that Aurora 2 video.







Just tell me it's approved for semi-long term use and I'll be your best friend.







I love that you can actually see it moving through the tubing. One of my biggest disappointments is that since building my loop, most of my friends (all of whom are pc illiterate) have absolutely no clue what they're looking at when they see it. If they could see the fluid moving through the tubing that would go a long way toward eliciting the "OOOOOH!" response I so crave. lol


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Coppermonkey*
> 
> So I'll be getting this case in January for my new build and for at least 6-7 months I'll be running my build on air until I can get together the cash for the loop that I want (versus a budget loop that I may hate) and I was wondering from those of you who already own the case, what do you think of the airflow? Any quirks with this case that you didn't like? From the reviews and videos I've seen this case seems to be one of the closest things to a perfect case I've seen but obviously I'm hesitant to believe that (too good to be true etc etc). Anything that bothered you from the get go that you replaced afterwards?
> 
> 
> 
> I love this case, BUT, there are a few quirks I could point out.
> 
> (1) The reservoir bracket has clearance limitations for longer cards, especially those mounted in lower slots. That's been discussed-to-death here already though.
> 
> (2) Make sure you push-click to remove the front fan filter grill before trying to remove the whole front of the case. The case front pops off by pulling outward at the bottom, but if you don't remove the fan filter grill first you will be very likely to ruin the two little push-click doohickeys that hold the filter grill in. Those things are fairly fragile and don't take too kindly to having the front filter grill just come flying straight out, which it will do when the front of the case is removed if you haven't properly removed it already. It only takes once, maybe twice of doing that before neither of those push-click thingies will go in and stay in anymore, and then you won't be able to put the front filter grill back on at all until you contact Phanteks support and have them send you a couple new ones. Been there. Done that. And so have a few others here too.
> 
> I personally think the case should come with a handful of extras of those push-click things as they are also used elsewhere throughout the case. If they were available anywhere for purchase separately, and perhaps they are but I'd never find them as I don't even know what to call them, I'd for sure buy about a dozen of them just so if/when another of them quits working I won't have to do the whole back and forth again with Phanteks support.
> 
> (3) And this 3rd one is a pretty big deal imho that hasn't really been discussed here to much yet. The bottom has an airflow design flaw imho. The rubber case feet only create a 3mm gap around the bottom (with weight on it it's more like 2.5mm tbh) and even when you add to that the openings in the back, front & right side and tiny bit on the left side where the bottom filters pop out, if mounted on a solid surface there's only about the square cm equivalent of roughly a single 120mm fan for airflow into or out of the bottom of the case. That's pretty bad, considering that's where many, myself included, are mounting radiators much larger than 120mm x 120mm. And it's much worse if someone mounts it on a carpeted surface as there would likely be almost no airflow to the bottom of the case at all.
> 
> If you are planning on having anything more than the 140mm fan that comes mounted down at the bottom, I would STRONGLY advise only setting the case on a solid surface and adding some sort of case feet / pads / wheels to lift the case a little more off the ground. That ~3mm gap should be increased to 13mm or more for a 280 or 360 rad and 18mm or more for a 480. Or, you could go the route Doyll took which was to create a rolling platform with the bottom cutout for airflow.
> 
> (4) A few have complained that the case window makes noises as it expands / contracts. All I can say about that is mine hasn't done any such thing (yet). From the descriptions of it I suspect it may only be an issue for some while the case is new.
Click to expand...


Hopefully Phanteks will release an accessory reservoir bracket.

Other than having to push real hard the first couple of times my push latches have not been a problem.

Bottom airflow could be a real problem if more than 1 fan is down there. A few of us have discussed this in private.







As I always use castor bases under my systems one of the first things I did was turn case over to measure it and was very surprised at how little airflow it had. Total area of intake through Primo base to bottom fans is 91.35sq cm.. a single 120mm fan has 113sq cm area.. subtract 12sq cm for motor hub and 120mm fan area is 101sq cm.. and that's not taking into account lost airflow though the grills.

*Left side has no airflow.. The grills on filters are totally cosmetic!! There's a solid surface behind them visible when you take them out to clean!!
*Right side has 36x 3x15mm slots (16.2sq cm)
*Back is 147x25mm (36.75sq cm)
*Front has 5x 10x30mm (15sq cm)
*Base is 2mm off floor with 126.5cm - 19.5cm for feet = 117cm (23.4sq cm)
Not a problem for me as with castor base. Using 30mm castors gives 33mm additional clearance for an addition 400sq cm of airflow to / from bottom.

Wonder what lube would be applicable along edges?








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> What did I leave out?


1* The front vent and grille and top grille are also quite restrictive. Simple fixes on front are to remove grille and/or the center panel in vent opening. Top would require a complete change of grille material or a different grille cover. I heard though the grapevine that MNPCtech is tininking of making custom front and top vent cover/grilles but haven't seen anything yet.

2* An optional front door that opened other way and one with a vent in it might be nice.

Honestly, there are many more and far more serious issues with every other case I've used.

Venting issues are common on almost all case I've seen.

Phanteks did a fantastic job of designing and building the Enthoo Primo at a price far cheaper than any other case as nice.. At least I don't know of any others as nice and well thought out.









Add the fact that their customer support is 2nd to none we really don't have any problems.. We all have different preferences and Phanteks did a fantastic job of satisfying most of them to near perfection... and as perfection is not possible we will always be able to complain abut something.


----------



## paulyoung

+1 for Pahnteks customer service. My case arrived with 2 deo front grill catches, after a quick EMail, they arrived on my doorstep 10 days dater. Also after my dog thought it would be fun to play with my plastic res bracket plate, he destroyed it, so again another Quick EMail to them, they are sending a new one out asap. Great job Phanteks..


----------



## Biafra1987

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chrisnyc75*
> 
> Very nice build & pics.
> 
> Just tell me it's approved for semi-long term use and I'll be your best friend.


It seems it will have a long life-span (without restrictions reached so far). Something like pastel. I was moving to this case after 1,5 month of use and I checked all parts of the loop for particles accumulation or anything like that. Nothing. Blocks were clean as new. I saved the liquid and I am still using it in the new case. It is not loosing anything from the effect and it does not change colour or anything. So far so good. We'll see after few more months.


----------



## chrisnyc75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Biafra1987*
> 
> It seems it will have a long life-span (without restrictions reached so far). Something like pastel. I was moving to this case after 1,5 month of use and I checked all parts of the loop for particles accumulation or anything like that. Nothing. Blocks were clean as new. I saved the liquid and I am still using it in the new case. It is not loosing anything from the effect and it does not change colour or anything. So far so good. We'll see after few more months.


Awesome, thanks







My Enthoo would look sooooo good with blood red mayhems Aurora 2 running through it.


----------



## jassilamba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> My case window still creaks. Had mine since release, it creaks and makes all kinds of noise, quite annoying.


I would send an email to Phanteks. Their products are above these kind of issues IMO.


----------



## Gunilla95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paulyoung*
> 
> +1 for Pahnteks customer service. My case arrived with 2 deo front grill catches, after a quick EMail, they arrived on my doorstep 10 days dater. Also after my dog thought it would be fun to play with my plastic res bracket plate, he destroyed it, so again another Quick EMail to them, they are sending a new one out asap. Great job Phanteks..


yeah i had one of the 2 clips broken when i got my case. + that i had a big scratch in the big window (inside of it where no protection is).
No question ask. as soon they had a pic of it and my buying recepie (is it called that?) they send it all the way to little Sweden for me.
+1 for that Phanteks!


----------



## Roxycon

If they replace only one of the, latches i too gonna shoot them a mail









Someone else having problems with the bottom filters with a alphacool rad installed with original screws?


----------



## pchangover

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roxycon*
> 
> If they replace only one of the, latches i too gonna shoot them a mail
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Someone else having problems with the bottom filters with a alphacool rad installed with original screws?


Do you mean removing the filters? I had no issues installing it.


----------



## Roxycon

Just normal handling of them.. Think the screw heads are too tall and i dont feel like forcing them out


----------



## pchangover

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roxycon*
> 
> Just normal handling of them.. Think the screw heads are too tall and i dont feel like forcing them out


Still not sure what you mean. I had to use washers on the alphacool screws to get them to not pull through but other than that they seem fine but I haven't had to mess with anything.


----------



## Roxycon

The spacing between the mount for the rad/fans and the tray/slides for the filters are too short together so the heads are long enough to interfere with the filters making it hard to take them in and out


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Coppermonkey*
> 
> So I'll be getting this case in January for my new build and for at least 6-7 months I'll be running my build on air until I can get together the cash for the loop that I want (versus a budget loop that I may hate) and I was wondering from those of you who already own the case, what do you think of the airflow? Any quirks with this case that you didn't like? From the reviews and videos I've seen this case seems to be one of the closest things to a perfect case I've seen but obviously I'm hesitant to believe that (too good to be true etc etc). Anything that bothered you from the get go that you replaced afterwards?


16 fan mounts ! .... you'll be fine with the 5 that the case comes with .... and the case fans make excellent rad fans .... and they are probably the quietest fans rpm for rpm that I have ever encountered....silentpcreview.com thot so too

http://www.silentpcreview.com/article1345-page7.html


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> (4) A few have complained that the case window makes noises as it expands / contracts. All I can say about that is mine hasn't done any such thing (yet). From the descriptions of it I suspect it may only be an issue for some while the case is new.
> 
> What did I leave out?


4) I removed the window and put it back in .... perhaps a lil tighter .... I think mine was built by "the new guy" as one of the Molex connectors was installed backwards.

I do notice that when it heats upt, it creaks a little....I'm wondering if loosening the fan rad screws holding top rad in place will alleviate.

As for left out ....

5) Vibration pads for the provided fans so they match the extra ones ya buy.

6) a second pump pad and Fan PCB either as part of the original package or aftermarket buy


----------



## ADragg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Coppermonkey*
> 
> So I'll be getting this case in January for my new build and for at least 6-7 months I'll be running my build on air until I can get together the cash for the loop that I want (versus a budget loop that I may hate) and I was wondering from those of you who already own the case, what do you think of the airflow? Any quirks with this case that you didn't like? From the reviews and videos I've seen this case seems to be one of the closest things to a perfect case I've seen but obviously I'm hesitant to believe that (too good to be true etc etc). Anything that bothered you from the get go that you replaced afterwards?


I don't know what you're used to, but I switched from a BitFenix Ghost which is a mid-tower "silent" case that has decent flow. Similar to something like the Fractal Define R4 and my GTX 780 temp (back when it was air cooled) dropped by 5+ degrees C just from switching to the Enthoo. I think it was actually more like 10+ degrees, but it was at least 5.


----------



## Hereisphilly

New review by Bit-tech is up! Pretty good read, i always enjoy their reviews, and it basically confirms everything we already knew!
http://www.bit-tech.net/hardware/cases/2013/12/20/phanteks-enthoo-primo-review/1


----------



## FalcUK

Hi guys

I bough this case yesterday and wow its epic, so much better than my old CM Stormtrooper. Got a couple of queries though regarding cabling the case up with regards to the Molex connectors.

1 has 12v labled on it, i guess thats just goes off a molex on my PSU
1 has LED Strip, this molex is the male type i think?? anyhow its the same as my PSU ones, not sure how i connect this??

The molex from the fan controller, do i need to connect it? the label says only if my mobo doesnt provide enough power, im having issues right now with my mobo as i bought a brand new Gigabyte G1 Sniper z87 and an i7 4770k and currently nothings working







just getting a flashing power button on the mobo, so i need to strip everything out of the case again and test the motherboard with nothing plugged in etc.

Just wanted to make sure i am cabling up the case correctly


----------



## Hereisphilly

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FalcUK*
> 
> Hi guys
> 
> I bough this case yesterday and wow its epic, so much better than my old CM Stormtrooper. Got a couple of queries though regarding cabling the case up with regards to the Molex connectors.
> 
> 1 has 12v labled on it, i guess thats just goes off a molex on my PSU
> 1 has LED Strip, this molex is the male type i think?? anyhow its the same as my PSU ones, not sure how i connect this??
> 
> The molex from the fan controller, do i need to connect it? the label says only if my mobo doesnt provide enough power, im having issues right now with my mobo as i bought a brand new Gigabyte G1 Sniper z87 and an i7 4770k and currently nothings working
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> just getting a flashing power button on the mobo, so i need to strip everything out of the case again and test the motherboard with nothing plugged in etc.
> 
> Just wanted to make sure i am cabling up the case correctly


Hey there, welcome to the club!

Yeah the cabling can be a bit confusing when you first look, I'll break it down for you:

The female molex on the front panel bundle is for a molex connector from your PSU to power the whole thing. You need this connected if you want the built in front led strip to light up.

The female molex labeled "led strip" is for an optional additional strip that you can connect and have it still controlled by the front led switch. If you don't have another strip to connect then leave this connector as is.

For the fan hub, my general rule of thumb is no more than 3 fans per mobo header. So if you have three fans or more then connect the hub up to your PSU too

Hope this helps!


----------



## FalcUK

Brilliant thanks for that! put my mind at ease, so atleast i know its not the cabling from the case thats causing my mobo not to power up







and also i know i dont need to add additional power to the fan controller, just the 12v from the PSU









Great and thanks again, Merry Xmas guys


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hereisphilly*
> 
> New review by Bit-tech is up! Pretty good read, i always enjoy their reviews, and it basically confirms everything we already knew!
> http://www.bit-tech.net/hardware/cases/2013/12/20/phanteks-enthoo-primo-review/1


Thanks mate.









I think this thread is the best source of info for Enthoo Primo right now thanks to all the fine people here.







.


----------



## Hereisphilly

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Thanks mate.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think this thread is the best source of info for Enthoo Primo right now thanks to all the fine people here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


Absolutely! Thanks for starting the thread too, I forgot for a minute that you were the OP!
The only bit the annoyed me about the review was that they knocked the PWM hub saying it was inferior than the hub that comes on the Phantom lines.
As far as i know, that hub only replicates the input signal across more fans, rather than converting a PWM signal from the mobo so that standard 3-pin fans can be used!

Edit - I've been away for two weeks on holday, so i have a load of posts to catch up on!


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hereisphilly*
> 
> The only bit the annoyed me about the review was that they knocked the PWM hub saying it was inferior than the hub that comes on the Phantom lines.
> As far as i know, that hub only replicates the input signal across more fans, rather than converting a PWM signal from the mobo so that standard 3-pin fans can be used!


Indeed.
The only similarity between the NXZT Grid and Phanteks PWM fan hub is 6x 3-pin fan sockets for fans
The Grid is nothing but a simple fan splitter on a board feeding whatever voltage going into Grid to all fans plugged into it.







.
Phanteks PWM hub uses a PWM signal and a 12 volt power source to control fan speed.


----------



## chrisnyc75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hereisphilly*
> 
> Absolutely! Thanks for starting the thread too, I forgot for a minute that you were the OP!
> The only bit the annoyed me about the review was that they knocked the PWM hub saying it was inferior than the hub that comes on the Phantom lines.
> As far as i know, that hub only replicates the input signal across more fans, rather than converting a PWM signal from the mobo so that standard 3-pin fans can be used!
> 
> Edit - I've been away for two weeks on holday, so i have a load of posts to catch up on!


I think the issue here is that the Phanteks PWM hub is actual "first of its kind" technology, so unless you've been very tuned in to the development (like we have) it's really easy to mistake it for just another hub -- possibly even one that is inferior to what's already out there. One has to pay very close attention -- and then actually BELIEVE that it does what it says it does (because nothing has ever done this before) -- or else you'd just dismiss it as marketing hype.

I have a feeling when Phanteks releases the hub as a stand-alone accessory in 2014 it's going to be a game changer that nobody saw coming. Suddenly ANY fan can be PWM, that's gonna shake things up in the fan game.


----------



## paulyoung

All this talk about the pwm fan hub, am I missing something cos mine doesn't work. I have tried 1 fan connected and plugged into motherboard no joy I then tried it plugged into psu via molex still no joy. I've noticed that it has been called not a normal fan hub, am I having a totally blonde moment and fudged the connection up ?


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paulyoung*
> 
> All this talk about the pwm fan hub, am I missing something cos mine doesn't work. I have tried 1 fan connected and plugged into motherboard no joy I then tried it plugged into psu via molex still no joy. I've noticed that it has been called not a normal fan hub, am I having a totally blonde moment and fudged the connection up ?


Do you have the 4 pin plugged into the CPU_FAN header on your mobo? (it needs to be)


----------



## paulyoung

Yes mate, for the pwm signal.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chrisnyc75*
> 
> I think the issue here is that the Phanteks PWM hub is actual "first of its kind" technology, so unless you've been very tuned in to the development (like we have) it's really easy to mistake it for just another hub -- possibly even one that is inferior to what's already out there. One has to pay very close attention -- and then actually BELIEVE that it does what it says it does (because nothing has ever done this before) -- or else you'd just dismiss it as marketing hype.
> 
> I have a feeling when Phanteks releases the hub as a stand-alone accessory in 2014 it's going to be a game changer that nobody saw coming. Suddenly ANY fan can be PWM, that's gonna shake things up in the fan game.


I agree that most have no idea what the Phanteks PWM hub is.

Don't know if PWM hub is regulating the voltage or sending 12v pulses to fans.

A mate builds PWM to analog curcuits with adjustment for balancing rpm to match other fans. They use 12v power from PSU and PWM signal from motherboard and can be built to power as may fans as you want.
Here's a 2x 4-way splitter on same PWM signal and molex power, speed balancing and rpm monitor on each set of 4 fans.
The blue pot on end is speed adjustment.
Wiring color code:
*Blue = PWM signal
*Yellow = rpm
*Red = 12v
*Black = ground


He's done some stuff on youtube
https://www.youtube.com/user/giftedlogical/videos


----------



## pchangover

If anyone is looking for 30mm m3 screws for alphacool radiators I got a pack of 100 from amazon. They are philips head and just large enough to not need washers. They are metal in color but can be painted. I'll need about half of them so if anyone wants some let me know and you can pay for a stamp for me to send you some!


----------



## Gunilla95

i found a front panel with a 4 pin PWM..
If you dont want the hub to be connected to the mobo.
Its called the Scythe Kama Panel 3.1
aleast it got the 4 pin at the back and some whrite it gives the signal like a real mobo 4 pin. intresting for me at least..
http://www.tomshardware.com/news/Fan-Speed-I-O-Panel-Drive-Bay-USB-3.0-Kama-Panel,22398.html


----------



## chrisnyc75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> I agree that most have no idea what the Phanteks PWM hub is.
> 
> Don't know if PWM hub is regulating the voltage or sending 12v pulses to fans.
> 
> A mate builds PWM to analog curcuits with adjustment for balancing rpm to match other fans. They use 12v power from PSU and PWM signal from motherboard and can be built to power as may fans as you want.
> Here's a 2x 4-way splitter on same PWM signal and molex power, speed balancing and rpm monitor on each set of 4 fans.
> The blue pot on end is speed adjustment.
> Wiring color code:
> *Blue = PWM signal
> *Yellow = rpm
> *Red = 12v
> *Black = ground
> He's done some stuff on youtube
> https://www.youtube.com/user/giftedlogical/videos


Wow, that's really interesting stuff. I'll check out his videos this weekend.









p.s. omg, did I just say that? I'm such a nerd. lol


----------



## mcnumpty23

havent managed to read all 200 pages of this thread so this may have been asked already

but theres a revision 2 of the case already?

http://www.scan.co.uk/products/phanteks-enthoo-primo-rev-2-full-tower-performance-case-with-side-window-e-atx-atx-w-o-psu?utm_source=google+shopping&utm_medium=cpc&gclid=CI2uiLvFv7sCFeLHtAodph8AHA


----------



## chrisnyc75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mcnumpty23*
> 
> havent managed to read all 200 pages of this thread so this may have been asked already
> 
> but theres a revision 2 of the case already?
> 
> http://www.scan.co.uk/products/phanteks-enthoo-primo-rev-2-full-tower-performance-case-with-side-window-e-atx-atx-w-o-psu?utm_source=google+shopping&utm_medium=cpc&gclid=CI2uiLvFv7sCFeLHtAodph8AHA


That's the first I've heard of this. Even if it is true, it looks like it's really minor changes - "Revision 2 which has minor updates and mainly to the Clips on the HDD Cage and the Front Filter Mech'"


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chrisnyc75*
> 
> Wow, that's really interesting stuff. I'll check out his videos this weekend.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> p.s. omg, did I just say that? I'm such a nerd. lol


OCN = Obsessive Compulsive Nerd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pchangover*
> 
> If anyone is looking for 30mm m3 screws for alphacool radiators I got a pack of 100 from amazon. They are philips head and just large enough to not need washers. They are metal in color but can be painted. I'll need about half of them so if anyone wants some let me know and you can pay for a stamp for me to send you some!


Amazon also has some black ones (socket head) .... posted various sources in a rad thread somewhere .... will try and locate

*EDIT: Here's the link*

http://www.overclock.net/t/1439800/radiator-screws-how-come-we-only-get-half

ya can also buy at Ace Hardware .... past number in thread so ya don't have to wait till the kid finds what ya need


----------



## mcnumpty23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chrisnyc75*
> 
> That's the first I've heard of this. Even if it is true, it looks like it's really minor changes - "Revision 2 which has minor updates and mainly to the Clips on the HDD Cage and the Front Filter Mech'"


well scan.co.uk is a reliable website so cant see them getting it wrong really

didnt expect any major changes after reading the reviews for the case it looked like it only had very minor issues with it

just surprised they did a revision 2 so quickly--now people buying it will have to check if they are getting the revision 1 or the revision 2 if the site selling them doesnt make that clear

would have liked to have seen them make the door reversible and enlarge the cut out on the reservoir mounting plate at the same time

guess i will be waiting till the january sales to get my primo

may be a revision 3 by then


----------



## Hereisphilly

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mcnumpty23*
> 
> havent managed to read all 200 pages of this thread so this may have been asked already
> 
> but theres a revision 2 of the case already?
> 
> http://www.scan.co.uk/products/phanteks-enthoo-primo-rev-2-full-tower-performance-case-with-side-window-e-atx-atx-w-o-psu?utm_source=google+shopping&utm_medium=cpc&gclid=CI2uiLvFv7sCFeLHtAodph8AHA


Aww man! Now I want Rev 2! ...for no reason whatsoever... But it must be better!


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hereisphilly*
> 
> Aww man! Now I want Rev 2! ...for no reason whatsoever... But it must be better!


Lol... You shall resist brother....


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hereisphilly*
> 
> Aww man! Now I want Rev 2! ...for no reason whatsoever... But it must be better!


1st edition always retains more value to collectors


----------



## Hereisphilly

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> 1st edition always retains more value to collectors


Now that's a good way of thinking about it!
I wonder what exactly they have changed on the hard drive cages and front mesh... I didn't think there was anything wrong with those bits


----------



## Gunilla95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hereisphilly*
> 
> Now that's a good way of thinking about it!
> I wonder what exactly they have changed on the hard drive cages and front mesh... I didn't think there was anything wrong with those bits


maybe the harddrive holders. so you can fit a rad there with still HDD cages left. and pull or push fans. that would be nice


----------



## Hereisphilly

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gunilla95*
> 
> maybe the harddrive holders. so you can fit a rad there with still HDD cages left. and pull or push fans. that would be nice


If they did that I wouldn't call it a revision, that's a pretty major redesign, as it would mean altering the main framework of the case.

I think its more likely to be either the clips that hold the cages in place, or the clips that actually hold the disks in. There weren't any problems that I could see with rev 1, so I hope its minor


----------



## doyll

I have to wonder as Phanteks hasn't said anything about it.. and all have same model / Part Code : PH-ES813P_BL.

I believe there were a few minor changes between the first batch of review cases and official public release but have heard nothing of a true revision


----------



## pchangover

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> OCN = Obsessive Compulsive Nerd
> Amazon also has some black ones (socket head) .... posted various sources in a rad thread somewhere .... will try and locate
> 
> *EDIT: Here's the link*
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1439800/radiator-screws-how-come-we-only-get-half
> 
> ya can also buy at Ace Hardware .... past number in thread so ya don't have to wait till the kid finds what ya need


Thanks for the heads up. I prefer philips head and the head to be large enough to not require a washer so the ones I find on amazon work fine for that. They don't look too bad against the black fan. I'm just providing up extra screws that I have for the cost of a stamp, considering ACE sells them for a dollar a piece, that's a good value lol.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hereisphilly*
> 
> Now that's a good way of thinking about it!
> I wonder what exactly they have changed on the hard drive cages and front mesh... I didn't think there was anything wrong with those bits


Depends on how ya read it.... read it again....
Quote:


> Revision 2 which has minor updates and mainly to the *Clips* on the HDD Cage and the Front Filter Mech


So its the "Clips on the HD cage" for sure .... saw some comments about "looseness / flimsyness" on some forums

And do they change the filter mesh or change the "clips on the filter mesh"

*FAIL:*

I had a 750 VA UPS in my office that had my NAS, modem, routers, switches etc connected to it as well as my lappie and cell signal booster.

Moved all that and plugged in the Enthoo .....was fine for a few days till my son tried to play a game on it.....it objects with a piercing whine









APC says it's pulling to much power for UPS to support...I said I don't care if I can't play games during power outage .... they said will damage it and want me to buy a $900 one









Hooked up my "Kil-O-Watt" but although it tells me actual cost of electricity per day, week, etc it doesn't tell me KW draw.


----------



## pchangover

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> Depends on how ya read it.... read it again....
> So its the "Clips on the HD cage" for sure .... saw some comments about "looseness / flimsyness" on some forums
> 
> And do they change the filter mesh or change the "clips on the filter mesh"
> 
> *FAIL:*
> 
> I had a 750 VA UPS in my office that had my NAS, modem, routers, switches etc connected to it as well as my lappie and cell signal booster.
> 
> Moved all that and plugged in the Enthoo .....was fine for a few days till my son tried to play a game on it.....it objects with a piercing whine
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> APC says it's pulling to much power for UPS to support...I said I don't care if I can't play games during power outage .... they said will damage it and want me to buy a $900 one
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hooked up my "Kil-O-Watt" but although it tells me actual cost of electricity per day, week, etc it doesn't tell me KW draw.


My Killowatt will tell me everything. Watts being used, amps being used, frequency, and kW. Do you have a new model or something?


----------



## bond32

List the specs and we can estimate the power draw...


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pchangover*
> 
> Thanks for the heads up. I prefer philips head and the head to be large enough to not require a washer so the ones I find on amazon work fine for that. They don't look too bad against the black fan. I'm just providing up extra screws that I have for the cost of a stamp, considering ACE sells them for a dollar a piece, that's a good value lol.


For me it was the time.... Ace was there and I'm back building in 10 minutes....amazon and mail was 4-7 days. If ya use Phanteks fans, no washers or anything required. Still wondering what that bottom bracket's function is. If I wuda used the single port for a drain, wuda left it out. Only thing it did for me that I noticed was get my drain port when on other side above the case edge......well it did lket me use the 35 mm L screws too










Phillips head metrics are easier to find....they like $7 a box of 100 at Ace for the lil ones.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> List the specs and we can estimate the power draw...


kinda did that when I sized my rads and PSU .... I have spreadsheets that calculate that stuff for me









<=== math geek .... '

I know exactly what every component is "suposed to draw" at peak but thatz kinda useless ... even AISuite 3 shows me using a fraction of the CPU reported wattage (140) for Haswell at 4.6GHz under burn in tests .... as soon as I find where my wife put the APC box...... she put it in a safe place so it wouldn't get lost (unfortunately she can never remember where any of those places are ... at least until I buy a replacement.) .... well then I can connect the communication cable and record power usage under varying conditions to the fraction of a watt.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pchangover*
> 
> My Killowatt will tell me everything. Watts being used, amps being used, frequency, and kW. Do you have a new model or something?


P4460 .... it does it instantaneously but it wasn't staying on screen .... was wondering if it had something ti do w/ strip I was using ... will try again soon


----------



## Terminus14

Hey guys quick question. I'm here wiring up my rig and I have everything hooked up except the cable from the case labeled "LED Strip." Looks to be a male 4 pin molex. I also have a female 4 pin molex labeled "12v Input" that isn't hooked up yet.

I'm assuming the female "12V INPUT" just plugs into one of my peripheral 6 pin power cables from my PSU but where does the male "LED STRIP"go? My PSU has no female cables.


----------



## FalcUK

I asked the same question. The led strip molex is for additional leds so unless you are adding them you dont need to use it. The only one you need to use is the 12v input. Also the fan controller molex is only needed if you are using more than 11 fans I think


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Been asked a few times.....

LED Strip - I connected it to these

http://www.amazon.com/LED-Outlets-Meter-Black-Waterproof-Flexible/dp/B00E9N7SX6

12V input - provides power to LED button at top of ya case

MoBo headers are typically 1 amp .... Hi end ethusiasts boards like rampage go to 2 amps....

Take ya fan rating and multiply by 2 for inrush current .... Take ya header rating and divide by that and that says how many fans safe per MoBo header.

so 1 amp / (2 x 0.14) = about 3-4 fans.....if ya sure no fans have anything rubbing against them, then ya can meybe get away with 6 or 7


----------



## Hereisphilly

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FalcUK*
> 
> I asked the same question. The led strip molex is for additional leds so unless you are adding them you dont need to use it. The only one you need to use is the 12v input. Also the fan controller molex is only needed if you are using more than 11 fans I think


The fan controller hub needs additional power if you are using any more than 3 fans total, otherwise you risk blowing your motherboard header.

11 fans total is the maximum capacity of the hub. Any more and you risk blowing the whole thing!


----------



## bond32

I run 8 ap-15's and all 5 stock fans at full blast off the fan hub... Connected the additional power of course. I don't think the ap-15's draw but a watt at max so shouldn't be a problem.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> I run 8 ap-15's and all 5 stock fans at full blast off the fan hub... Connected the additional power of course. I don't think the ap-15's draw but a watt at max so shouldn't be a problem.


The GT AP-15 (1850 rpm) fan is rated at 83 mA (,083 amps) but its startup is 360 mA (.36 amps) which iirc watts = amps x volts which would be .36 x 12 = 4.32 watts per fan at startup.
Eight AP-15s would be over 35 watts at startup.


----------



## Gunilla95

Anybody knows how to use the Fan hub with a normal fancontroller?
Dont want it on my motherboard want it "external" controlled..
It doesnt work with a normal fan controller. and i have a hard time finding a 4 pin fan controller..


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gunilla95*
> 
> Anybody knows how to use the Fan hub with a normal fancontroller?
> Dont want it on my motherboard want it "external" controlled..
> It doesnt work with a normal fan controller. and i have a hard time finding a 4 pin fan controller..


The only way Enthoo Primo's hub would work with a fan controller would be if it's a 'PWM' fan controller. The Enthoo Primo hub is meant to be used with 3 pin (non-PWM) fans. It's possible to control PWM fans via a 3-pin voltage control like the Phanteks hub does, but many PWM (4-pin) fans do not like to be run like that, and can shorten their lifespan considerably.

If you have PWM (4 pin fans) you want to control you could just get a PWM splitter like the PCB one from Swiftech or a cable PWM splitter like it. They do the exact same thing. They use the tach and PWM signal wire from the CPU_FAN header on a mobo and the power from your PSU via a molex. Then you can control the fans via speedfan or the like. There are some limitations though. You'd be limited to about 8 fans from one PWM signal from the mobo, and a few PWM fans, like Corsair's for example, that rely on a higher-than-standard PWM-signal current to operate, thus often have trouble when trying to use more than 4 fans in this way.

If you have more PWM fans than that, then you might want to consider getting a PWM-capable fan controller. The Aquaero 6 comes to mind, although it's pricy. There are probably cheaper alternatives.


----------



## Gunilla95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> The only way Enthoo Primo's hub would work with a fan controller would be if it's a 'PWM' fan controller. The Enthoo Primo hub is meant to be used with 3 pin (non-PWM) fans. It's possible to control PWM fans via a 3-pin voltage control like the Phanteks hub does, but many PWM (4-pin) fans do not like to be run like that, and can shorten their lifespan considerably.
> 
> If you have PWM (4 pin fans) you want to control you could just get a PWM splitter like the PCB one from Swiftech or a cable PWM splitter like it. They do the exact same thing. They use the tach and PWM signal wire from the CPU_FAN header on a mobo and the power from your PSU via a molex. Then you can control the fans via speedfan or the like. There are some limitations though. You'd be limited to about 8 fans from one PWM signal from the mobo, and a few PWM fans, like Corsair's for example, that rely on a higher-than-standard PWM-signal current to operate, thus often have trouble when trying to use more than 4 fans in this way.
> 
> If you have more PWM fans than that, then you might want to consider getting a PWM-capable fan controller. The Aquaero 6 comes to mind, although it's pricy. There are probably cheaper alternatives.


Thank you for the tips.
i dont use any pwm fans. but the problem is i cant make the hub run without pwm signal tryed both my nzxt fan controllen and my scythe..
so hunting a 4 pin fan controller becouse of that reason. gonna check out the aquaero!


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gunilla95*
> 
> Thank you for the tips.
> i dont use any pwm fans. but the problem is i cant make the hub run without pwm signal tryed both my nzxt fan controllen and my scythe..
> so hunting a 4 pin fan controller becouse of that reason. gonna check out the aquaero!


Is there a reason you don't just use the PWM signal from the CPU_FAN header on your mobo? That's what the Phanteks hub was designed for.

If you had an Aquaero 6 you'd have no reason to use the Phanteks hub at all. It can control dozens of fans (3-pin or 4-pin), and pumps, and more, all by itself, but those capabilities don't come cheap.


----------



## Gunilla95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Is there a reason you don't just use the PWM signal from the CPU_FAN header on your mobo? That's what the Phanteks hub was designed for.
> 
> If you had an Aquaero 6 you'd have no reason to use the Phanteks hub at all. It can control dozens of fans (3-pin or 4-pin), and pumps, and more, all by itself, but those capabilities don't come cheap.


yeah about that.. the problem you know is that i had a shorted cpu fan once. since then i havent been able to control any fans through it. so ive been running on controllers for everything.. xD


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gunilla95*
> 
> Anybody knows how to use the Fan hub with a normal fancontroller?
> Dont want it on my motherboard want it "external" controlled..
> It doesnt work with a normal fan controller. and i have a hard time finding a 4 pin fan controller..


You will need a controller that generates it's own PWM signal that is manually adjustable... and I don't know of any. Well. Aquaero might make something you could use.
http://www.aquacomputer.de/

Edit: Too slow.


----------



## hanksy3

Just wondering whats going to happen if the new graphic cards have longer pcb. How your going to upgrade if you have a tube reservoir


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gunilla95*
> 
> Thank you for the tips.
> i dont use any pwm fans. but the problem is i cant make the hub run without pwm signal tryed both my nzxt fan controllen and my scythe..
> so hunting a 4 pin fan controller becouse of that reason. gonna check out the aquaero!


Did ya try w/o the 12V plugged in ? When chassis fan MoBo headers are used, all fans connected to the fan PCB go to full speed as soon as the 12v is plugged into the hub.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hanksy3*
> 
> Just wondering whats going to happen if the new graphic cards have longer pcb. How your going to upgrade if you have a tube reservoir


I'd make some allowances when choosing and placing the tube reservoir..... but I generally don't reuse cases when doing upgrades .... in fact can't remember ever doing so....also top end cards , at least reference models have,t changed that much.

the 285 was 10.5 inches long
the 480 was 9.5 inches long
the 580 was 10.5 inches long
the 680 was 10.0 inches long
the 780 was 10.5 inches long

By starting out with an SLI build, I know I'm going to be OK GFX wise for quite a while..... 4 years from now, I'll want a new design vase.


----------



## owcraftsman

It might be considered a compromise but I've located my tube res in front of my gpu. I got my case 3 weeks ago and have barely had time to work on it but I do have the loop configured rads/pump/res/blocks installed in the case. I have lighting and working hardware yet to install along with some more stuff I ordered that I was missing after the initial build. Thanks to the many ideas I've gotten here from peeps sharing the ideas and builds. I'll take some pics when I get back home from vacation if anyone is interested and I'll answer questions if I can help.





The only things that changed from the illustration above is the pump res combo where I decided to go with the bitspower variant and the top right fill port is gone and drain bottom right on the monsta was added. I suppose I could get a larger rad in the bottom but I think it will be sufficient enough my my needs.

I opted to get a couple extra phantek led fans for 3 at the very top and 3 non led below the top rad all of which connect to the fan header and led on/off. I borrowed one led from the from the front to make room for the monsta and one non led from from the bottom to minimize what I had to buy.

I've been building watercooled case for 12 years and this is by far the best case I've had yet. Very happy with it so far. Easiest build ever thanks to Phantek.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hanksy3*
> 
> Just wondering whats going to happen if the new graphic cards have longer pcb. How your going to upgrade if you have a tube reservoir


There will always be GPUs available both shorter and longer than the 10.5 - 10.9" or so max one could have and still fit most tube res's on the bracket. If you buy a longer card than will fit with the res you have on the bracket, then you'll have to move the res to another location like the one on the back panel of the case Phanteks provided, use a different res, perhaps a bay res, or maybe no res at all. These are all the same type issues one would face when using just about any case.


----------



## Gunilla95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> Did ya try w/o the 12V plugged in ? When chassis fan MoBo headers are used, all fans connected to the fan PCB go to full speed as soon as the 12v is plugged into the hub.


Im pretty shure i tried both with and without the molex plugged to it. but it works perfectly with my other computer so i will simple buy a new mobo or something ..


----------



## Kurodragon

Hey guys,

I recently just got my 780 Ti Classified and I had to take out the reservoir bracket to get it in.

I bought the EK X3 150 res and I'm not sure where I could put it.

Here is what my loop planned to be just in case the res bracket wouldn't be able to fit.



However, my GPU does block the top part of the grill where I was going to mount the res. Maybe I could put it in the 5.25" bays? They are unused and I don't think I'll add anything there since I won't use an optical drive or any fan controllers.

Any other good places? I appreciate the input.


----------



## chrisnyc75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kurodragon*
> 
> Hey guys,
> 
> I recently just got my 780 Ti Classified and I had to take out the reservoir bracket to get it in.
> 
> I bought the EK X3 150 res and I'm not sure where I could put it.
> 
> Here is what my loop planned to be just in case the res bracket wouldn't be able to fit.
> 
> 
> 
> However, my GPU does block the top part of the grill where I was going to mount the res. Maybe I could put it in the 5.25" bays? They are unused and I don't think I'll add anything there since I won't use an optical drive or any fan controllers.
> 
> Any other good places? I appreciate the input.


The top card won't conflict with the mounting panel -- what you're seeing in that picture is the plastic faceplate that can be used *optionally* to cover the panel if you're NOT using it as a reservoir mount. The actual mounting panel is notched, any gpu will fit in the top slot.

If you run multiple cards, though, the 3rd or 4th slot may conflict with the un-notched portion of the reservoir mount at the bottom, it leaves 10.1" clearance. Many/most of us have had to mod the panel with a dremel to allow enough space for today's typically 10.5" or 11" cards.


----------



## Kurodragon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chrisnyc75*
> 
> The top card won't conflict with the mounting panel -- what you're seeing in that picture is the plastic faceplate that can be used *optionally* to cover the panel if you're NOT using it as a reservoir mount. The actual mounting panel is notched, any gpu will fit in the top slot.
> 
> If you run multiple cards, though, the 3rd or 4th slot may conflict with the un-notched portion of the reservoir mount at the bottom, it leaves 10.1" clearance. Many/most of us have had to mod the panel with a dremel to allow enough space for today's typically 10.5" or 11" cards.


The 780 Ti Classy is 11", I believe. It wouldn't fit with the plastic cover removed and the reservoir bracket in. I was thinking of possibly modding the bracket but I have no skill or knowledge with how to do that. Other than that, I would have to find a different place to mount it.


----------



## Roxycon

@Kurodragon no bottom rad? If you add that you could mount your res horizontally with a 140/120 mm fan to res mount converter


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chrisnyc75*
> 
> The top card won't conflict with the mounting panel -- what you're seeing in that picture is the plastic faceplate that can be used *optionally* to cover the panel if you're NOT using it as a reservoir mount. The actual mounting panel is notched, *any gpu will fit in the top slot.*
> 
> If you run multiple cards, though, the 3rd or 4th slot may conflict with the un-notched portion of the reservoir mount at the bottom, it leaves 10.1" clearance. Many/most of us have had to mod the panel with a dremel to allow enough space for today's typically 10.5" or 11" cards.


Ummm, not every card is shorter than the 277mm (10.9") clearance the res bracket has with the plastic cover removed. Most are, but there are definitely some that are longer than that.

For example, the EVGA GTX 780 Ti Dual Classified, which is what I think Kurodragon is referring to, is 279 mm according to this techpowerup review.. It also looks to be a wider-than-normal card, so it actually may interfere with mounting a res on the back panel also, which is what Kurodragon is saying.

That's strange. What exact card do you have (is it the EVGA GTX 780 Ti Dual Classified)? How long & how wide is it?
EK says that EK-RES X3 150 is 60mm wide. Perhaps you can mount it to the back panel to the right of the mobo with the res bracket removed? There should be enough space provided you can find places to secure the mounts.


----------



## chrisnyc75

Oops, my bad, I never measured exactly how much clearance the notched portion allowed, I just assumed it was at least 11" since many cards are that length.

If Phanteks really did leave only 10.9" that's just a plain stupid mistake.


----------



## Kurodragon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Ummm, not every card is shorter than the 277mm (10.9") clearance the res bracket has with the plastic cover removed. Most are, but there are definitely some that are longer than that.
> 
> For example, the EVGA GTX 780 Ti Dual Classified, which is what I think Kurodragon is referring to, is 279 mm according to this techpowerup review.. It also looks to be a wider-than-normal card, so it actually may interfere with mounting a res on the back panel also, which is what Kurodragon is saying.
> 
> That's strange. What exact card do you have (is it the EVGA GTX 780 Ti Dual Classified)? How long & how wide is it?
> EK says that EK-RES X3 150 is 60mm wide. Perhaps you can mount it to the back panel to the right of the mobo with the res bracket removed? There should be enough space provided you can find places to secure the mounts.


Yeah that's the card I have. I don't have anything to measure it, but Newegg lists the card as 11" , 279mm.

To the right of the mobo is a good idea actually, I didn't think of that.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roxycon*
> 
> @Kurodragon no bottom rad? If you add that you could mount your res horizontally with a 140/120 mm fan to res mount converter


Nope, no bottom rad right now. Just a 420 top.

Thanks for the input!


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kurodragon*
> 
> Hey guys,
> 
> I recently just got my 780 Ti Classified and I had to take out the reservoir bracket to get it in.


What is the length of the Classy's PCB ? IIRC, the card w/ air cooler is 11" .... if ya taking the air cooler off and adding a WB, as your sketch indicates, it will fit w/o hitting the res bracket if ya can save 0.1" .... If ya can save 0.4", the EK res will fit.

I saw bottom pics of the Kingpin edition and that PCB appears full length (same as cooler)

here's my test fit (just for laughs)



But this is what I was gonna do if the 780's didn't fit using two EKRes 3 150mm



My other idea was to mount horizontally above the lower rad


----------



## Kurodragon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> ]
> 
> What is the length of the Classy's PCB ?


I don't have anything to measure it, but Newegg lists the card as 11" , 279mm.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Is it shorter than the cooler ?

No ruler in the house ? How about a coin.....pen ? anything which is fairly universal ?

How about a picture of the underside ?


----------



## Roxycon

You guys think that cutting away the top plate between the odd bays and the top in front will compromise the rigidity? Not having all eight fans on my 480 installed bothers my ocd


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roxycon*
> 
> You guys think that cutting away the top plate between the odd bays and the top in front will compromise the rigidity? Not having all eight fans on my 480 installed bothers my ocd


Why can't you have all 8 fans on a 480 in the top?

I have 8 fans on my 480 up top and I'm failing to see what part of "_the top plate between the odd bays and the top in front_" would interfere with anything. The case accommodates a 480 up top in push-pull no problem w/o any modifications needed.


----------



## Roxycon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Why can't you have all 8 fans on a 480 in the top?
> 
> I have 8 fans on my 480 up top and I'm failing to see what part of "_the top plate between the odd bays and the top in front_" would interfere with anything. The case accommodates a 480 up top in push-pull no problem w/o any modifications needed.


I have the inlets outlets in the front wich force the rad about ~10mm further back making the fourth fan in the top compartment to not fit with the clips for the dust filter..

Kinda mhe on the design since we got the option in the bottom for either way with the same sized rad


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roxycon*
> 
> I have the inlets outlets in the front wich force the rad about ~10mm further back making the fourth fan in the top compartment to not fit with the clips for the dust filter..
> 
> Kinda mhe on the design since we got the option in the bottom for either way with the same sized rad


Oh that's an easy fix then. Turn your rad around.









OK, not what you want to hear.

There's looks to be only ~22mm or so of a top at the front of the case above the 5.25" bays. If I understand you correctly, you're wanting to cut some or all of that away?

About 7mm from the front there's an indention in the top panel. That crease goes all the way around the opening at the top to add rigidity to the top panel. If you are not going to need to cut across that indention then you would not affect the top panel's rigidity at all, but I suspect even if you did it wouldn't matter a whole lot. The case wouldn't fall apart, and once your rad is all screwed in it would lend some rigidity back to the top in any case. Assuming you are wanting to be able to slide the rad forward a little more it would also affect all of the screw mounting locations too, but I assume you already know that.

FWIW, I've got my 360 in the bottom with the ports towards the front, and with the HDD bays in the forward location the mounting holes at the bottom don't all line up. The case was definitely was not designed for the rad to be put in that way, but I didn't need all of the holes to line up as I only used a few of them.


----------



## Roxycon

Screw mounting holes are already affected, want to move the rad all the way forward so that i can screw down my fans on all four points and not only two.. Ive looked a little into it, although hard to get a view on the inside since my loop is up and the odd bay is almost inaccessible







but the front metal and maybe some of the plastic in the cover has to go in order to get the rad aligned..

God, im glad i shall be using this case till its ready to be trashed







having a hard time selling my cosmos in mint condition, i dont wanna have the experience with a case that has gotten under the knife


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

I never try to sell a case by itself. Too hard to sell locally by itself and too hard / costly to ship to sell online.

I always use a case for several years minimum anyway, and when I no longer have a use for it I'll throw some old gear into it - frankenstein build - and sell it locally as a complete system (usually to a friend for pennies on the dollar what I paid for everything) or more often give it away as a gift to family. Almost everyone in my family has a hand-me-down rig from me.


----------



## Roxycon

Ive seen them go away used here for 325 usd (retailers here are asking ~450, crazy expensive) but when i listed mine there was suddenly no interest







i may be ending up giving it away cause it takes so much space


----------



## Gunilla95

okey i cant find the page where we where discussin what rad thickness fits on top in push pull. im buying a new rad for the top and whant to know it.
and i was wondering if someone is not using the pwm hub i would need another one to put all fans running though the hub.
i can pay shipment and what you want for it.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gunilla95*
> 
> okey i cant find the page where we where discussin what rad thickness fits on top in push pull. im buying a new rad for the top and whant to know it. [...]


This may be what you're thinking of. I believe it should answer what you want to know .


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *47 Knucklehead*
> 
> Question about your drawing (and this case in particular).
> 
> From what I'm reading, it doesn't appear that I will be able to put an XSPC RX360 60mm radiator with "push/pull" fans up top and have it not hit my GA-Z77Z-UP7 motherboard. I rant into no amount of issues with trying to cram that into my Switch 810 case, and ended up taking a grinder to the case to finally shoe-horn it in. If this isn't the case here (and I hope I can just put an RX360 in "push/pull" in this case), what are your thoughts about just doing push on the RX360?
> 
> According to your drawing, you are sucking cool air in from the top, pushing it through the radiator, and dumping it INSIDE the case. I've always tried to avoid this. Do you think it will be a major issue? Or should I just get a 45mm 360 radiator and go "push/pull" up to and have the air blow out the top?
> 
> Thanks for any input.
> 
> 
> 
> There's 70mm of space from the top of the mobo to the top of the case, and roughly ~54mm of offset from the mobo with 120-series rads (240, 360, 480) so unless you have something on your mobo near the top that's taller than ~50mm it's possible to put a 60mm or even an 80mm thick rad in push/pull even if you were so inclined but a monsta in push pull would overhang the top 35mm of the mobo.
> 
> If you do have anything on your mobo taller than ~50mm then you would need to go with a 45mm thick rad in push pull.
> 
> Here's a repost of a recent similar discussion that you may find helpful.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *borax*
> 
> Guys what is the maximum thickness of rad i can put at the top of the case in push pull, Triple 360mm?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Short answer: A 45mm thick 120-series rad like a 360 or 480 in push-pull with 25mm thick fans will extend down to even with the top of a mobo, but also will be ~54mm offset from the mobo so as long as you don't have anything taller than ~54mm on your mobo, like heatsinks or ram, etc, it's possible that you can get away with an even thicker rad, a 60mm or an 80mm thick monsta even, if you don't mind the rad & fans overhanging the mobo.
> 
> Rather than reinvent the wheel, here's a more extensive recent reply to someone else where I'm referencing a 480 rad, but all the same clearance issues also apply to a 360 rad too except a 360 won't affect the front 5.25" drive bays like a 480 might.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> I have a 480 XT45 in the roof in push-pull.
> 
> There is 70 mm of clearance from the top of the mobo to the inside top of the case, so an Xt45 with push fan (45mm + 25mm) comes just even with the top of the mobo. A 45mm thick rad with 25mm push fan will fit perfect with _any_ motherboard because 120mm-series rad/fan mounts are also offset by ~54 mm (140mm series fans/rads are offset by ~44mm).
> 
> 
> 
> With that offset, as long as you don't have anything on your mobo taller than ~54mm, you can run even thicker rads in push pull.
> 
> Do note that you will pretty much lose the use of your top 5.25" bay with a 45mm 480 with push fans.
> 
> - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
> 
> FYI, most of these type questions have been answered by Jesse (jassilamba) over at themodzoo in the FAQs accompanying his review:
> 
> http://themodzoo.com/forum/index.php?/page/articles.html/_/reviews/cases/phanteks-enthoo-primo-full-tower-review-r67?pg=8
> 
> For example:
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> *What is the max clearance for a radiator installed in the top panel?*
> 
> - The case has a clearance of 70mm for mounting a radiator in the roof. The mounts are offset by ~54mm so installing a 60mm (120mm series) radiator in push pull should not be an issue. As long as you do not have anything taller than 53mm on the motherboard (including ram), you can even install a 480mm monsta radiator in push pull. The X79 Dark, and G-Skill ram CAN be used with a monsta rad in push pull
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> .
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
Click to expand...




Quote:


> and i was wondering if someone is not using the pwm hub i would need another one to put all fans running though the hub.
> i can pay shipment and what you want for it.


You might want to post a 'Wanted' post in the OCN marketplace for it with what you're willing to pay.

That, or someone here posted that Phanteks should be offering it for sale separately before too long (sometime January iirc).


----------



## Gunilla95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> This may be what you're thinking of. I believe it should answer what you want to know .
> You might want to post a 'Wanted' post in the OCN marketplace for it with what you're willing to pay.
> 
> That, or someone here posted that Phanteks should be offering it for sale separately before too long (sometime January iirc).


exactly what i was looking for thank you







i will check the marketplace then thanks!


----------



## Kurodragon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> Is it shorter than the cooler ?
> 
> No ruler in the house ? How about a coin.....pen ? anything which is fairly universal ?
> 
> How about a picture of the underside ?


PCB is about 11-11.25 inches.

Sorry for the bad quality here.



I took the bracket out, but here it shows where the card would collide when I tried to install it with the bracket in place.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kurodragon*
> 
> PCB is about 11-11.25 inches.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry for the bad quality here.
> 
> 
> 
> I took the bracket out, but here it shows where the card would collide when I tried to install it with the bracket in place.


Wow, that is a long card. There definitely does not look to be enough room to mount a res to the right of the mobo. It's hard to tell from the angle of the pics but it looks like a res would fit on the back panel, but in your previous post I believe you mentioned it wouldn't. Even if the holes don't line up for the res brackets with the holes provided there are you sure there's not room for the res to fit if you drilled your own holes?


----------



## Kurodragon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Wow, that is a long card. There definitely does not look to be enough room to mount a res to the right of the mobo. It's hard to tell from the angle of the pics but it looks like a res would fit on the back panel, but in your previous post I believe you mentioned it wouldn't. Even if the holes don't line up for the res brackets with the holes provided there are you sure there's not room for the res to fit if you drilled your own holes?


The card blocks the top few but the bottom few are fine, especially since I don't plan on adding anything more.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kurodragon*
> 
> The card blocks the top few but the bottom few are fine, especially since I don't plan on adding anything more.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Measuring in my case from where it looks like your card reaches, there looks to be 70-80mm of space between the card and the side panel. I realize you can't use the holes Phanteks provided, but you shouldn't have a lot of trouble mounting a 60mm wide res there. If you can set the res up in there then you can make it fit. Just look at it from the back while you do and see where the holes for the mounting screws need to be. Look's like you may need to use washers for any screws that's going through a vent hole and/or you may need to drill a couple holes yourself.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gunilla95*
> 
> okey i cant find the page where we where discussin what rad thickness fits on top in push pull. im buying a new rad for the top and whant to know it.
> and i was wondering if someone is not using the pwm hub i would need another one to put all fans running though the hub.
> i can pay shipment and what you want for it.


45 fits in push / pull with plenty of room to work

60 will fit in push / pull w/ most MoBos but may be difficult to reach certain things like the EPS connector or MCPIE Combo II thingie on M6F


----------



## cestessr

You can install 140mm rads in the top depending on ram and mobo heatsinks. I installed a Aquacomputer 280 in push pull and set my Asus Maximus V Extreme with G-Skills Ripjaws Z and pushed all the way troward the front and it just barely made it.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

It's not the width in question....a 420 (140.3) easily fits up top tho it's a bit of a wrestle if it's thicker than 45mm..... up to te 45mm thickness none of the 420's bother ya heatsinks or RAM that I have seen so far..... 60mm thickness will fit most times but can be tricky to get in, may make access to 8 pin EPS difficult as well as your most extreme boards may run into RAM / HS issues.


----------



## Sunreeper

The 900d is on sale for 250$ over here. I've spent over an hour debating whether to get the primo or the 900d lol


----------



## doyll

You know you want the EP. That's why you are here.









Only reason 900D is pried $250 is because it's not as good as EP.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

^ lol

There's good and bad things about both the Enthoo Primo and the 900D.

I'd suggest taking a good long look at both and decide which serves your purposes better.

IMHO the 900D requires some modding to get to be nearly as functional of a watercooling rig and good looking of a case as the Enthoo Primo, but it does have a few advantages too. The Enthoo Primo blows it away in how easy it is to put in a nice custom loop with an overkill of raddage with little to no modding at all, but the 900D can be made to fit even more rads and is easier to deal with things like longer GPUs, etc. The Enthoo Primo blows it away in cable management & well-thought out design. The 900D's advantages tend to come not from it's design, but from the fact it's so much bigger.

Honestly, I would personally never even consider a 900D. If I wanted bigger and could fit more GPU & more rad, then I'd be looking at a caselabs case, not the 900D which imho is a generic Caselabs or 'Little Devil' wannabe. That, and the real deal-killer for me and the 900D is the terrible 5.25" bays. They are odd-sized (complaints abound from people whose 5.25" bay devices don't fit correctly, at least not without taking a dremel to them &/or the case) and the wider 5.25" bay covers (thanks to them being the full width of the wider-than-normal case) look terrible imho once removed so a 5.25" bay device can be put in. Every time I see that I can hardly believe Corsair did that. Why they didn't keep the brushed aluminum bay covers the width of the 5.25" bay so when removed it was still brushed aluminum on each side so everything could look flush and uniform is beyond me.

The Enthoo Primo, on the other hand, is so unique on it's own it can't really be compared to any other case currently out. It's design is so well thought out that it's almost functional beyond belief, and it's a work of art imho. It's not perfect though. I don't think there's a single one of us who owns the case that doesn't have a list of things we wish were changed/different about it. Then again, the same has always been true for every case ever made.


----------



## doyll

Corsair 900D = 251.5mm x 690mm x 650.25mm - - Same width, 40mm deeper and 50mm taller.
Enthoo Primo = 250mm x 650mm x 600mm

By all reviews the EP has better build quality.

I only know of one person who sold his EP.. he went CaseLabs.


----------



## cestessr

Yes you are correct I only have a 280 and I think a 420 will fit but you would have to wire th mobo 8 pin and4pin first then wrestle the rad in. I push mine foward to avoid that next weef when I get the rest of my parts I will install everw thing and post some pics and try to slide rad back with all in


----------



## dodo21x




----------



## doyll

Nice build dodo21x!









Did you change front fans too?


----------



## dodo21x

Keep the original ones for time being.


----------



## Sunreeper

You both are really convincing me to go with the primo but there's two things that still draw me to the 900d. One it's so big and roomy one thing I don't like about the primo is that some builds look a little squished in the primo. Now some people may like that look but it doesn't appeal to me I want a little more room. The second thing that attracts me to the 900d is that I really really want a flipped motherboard tray so that the GPUs face up and the CPU faces down and that'll be easier on the 900d because it's flat. I still need to find somebody that can make a motherboard tray because if they could make a flipped one for the primo that would be amazing!


----------



## doyll

Really Sunreeper, the size difference is only 1.575" deeper and 1.97" taller. Width is the same.. well 0.059" wider..


----------



## Sunreeper

I'm just saying it looks more spacious in the 900d



















Edit: I actually think that the primo could look more spacious by removing the area that has the phantek logo. I wonder how hard it would be to completely remove the drive bays I think I saw it done in an mnpctech video


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Really Sunreeper, the size difference is only 1.575" deeper and 1.97" taller. Width is the same.. well 0.059" wider..


lol! You keep saying 'only' and I keep thinking 'wow, it's that much!'.

The 900D is 14% larger than the Enthoo Primo in square ft/cm. When you're cramming as much stuff into these boxes as we put into them, the extra 1/2 sq ft the 900D has can make a big difference.

I couldn't count how many times I wish I had just an extra centimeter or two of room in the Enthoo Primo, much less an inch or more that the 900D has. If the Enthoo Tweede (lol) is more than a cm larger in any direction I know I'll be pre-ordering it.

The main thing the Enthoo Primo has is it's better thought out design definitely does allow you to make much better use of the space available. Just take a look at the hoops people have to jump through in their 900D build logs to get things to look / work out right. With the Enthoo Primo it's ready-to-go out of the box.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> lol! You keep saying 'only' and I keep thinking 'wow, it's that much!'.
> 
> The 900D is 14% larger than the Enthoo Primo in square ft/cm. When you're cramming as much stuff into these boxes as we put into them, the extra 1/2 sq ft the 900D has can make a big difference.
> 
> I couldn't count how many times I wish I had just an extra centimeter or two of room in the Enthoo Primo, much less an inch or more that the 900D has. If the Enthoo Tweede (lol) is more than a cm larger in any direction I know I'll be pre-ordering it.
> 
> The main thing the Enthoo Primo has is it's better thought out design definitely does allow you to make much better use of the space available. Just take a look at the hoops people have to jump through in their 900D build logs to get things to look / work out right. With the Enthoo Primo it's ready-to-go out of the box.


1/2 sq ft?? Is there a 3rd dimension in it somewhere?









I think an extra 20mm in width and 40mm in depth would be very nice.
20mm width for 140 width radiators
40mm depth for longer GPUs.

Enthoo Tweede will be 270x690x600mm. Is that acceptable?

Oh! Increase the base thickness by 10mm with 6x 30mm duel wheel castors on the bottom.







.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> 1/2 sq ft?? Is here a 3rd dimension here?


Going by your measurements
900D is 3.98 sq ft
Enthoo Primo is 3.43 sq ft.
Quote:


> I think an extra 20mm in width and 40mm in depth would be very nice.
> 20mm width for 140 width radiators
> 40mm depth for longer GPUs.
> 
> Enthoo Tweede will be 270x690x600mm. Is that acceptable?


That would be better, but I could care less about 140mm rads. Tried 'em. Hate 'em.

I'd want that 40mm taller (hehe, you notice you added 40mm to the height dimension instead of to the length







) so I can put a monsta 480 in the top in p/p that doesn't overhang the mobo. Another 40mm length for longer GPUs would be cool too, although it wouldn't be so much for longer GPUs but rather for fitting a tube res with longer GPUs. I'd take the extra 20mm of width just for the heck of it. Maybe then 360/480 wouldn't be such a tight fit down in the bottom.

So my vote for Enthoo Tweede would be: 270x690x640mm

Quote:


> Oh! Increase the base thickness by 10mm with 6x 30mm duel wheel castors on the bottom.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


Most definitely!
















- - - - - - -

Edit:

Actually, I'd like to see a completely redesigned Enthoo Tweede. What a dumb sounding name, but that's 'Enthoo Second' in Dutch so I figure that might well be the name if there is one. Took me long enough to get used to 'Enthoo Primo'.

I'd like to see there be room in the bottom so a monsta 480 rad can be mounted sideways so airflow goes through the case from one side to the other (then you wouldn't need to raise the case feet for airflow which is desperately needed in the Primo), then put the PSU behind a shroud at the top of the mobo just like it is now in the bottom of the Primo. And make the case tall enough to put a monsta in the top w/o overhanging the mobo and deep enough to have enough room to fit a thick tube res to the right of the mobo with cards as long as 290mm if not longer.

And I'd like to see a better design than the push-click things to remove the filters. Maybe the same but more heavy-duty? I dunno. I've been through two of them already (and so have others here) and have little-to-no faith they are going to last years. I'm worried every time I remove a filter now whether it's going to go back or not and don't want to have to deal with support again. It took me more than a week of back and forth emails (and they were VERY slow to respond - I had to wait more than a full weekday twice for a reply and both times didn't get one until I messaged back a second time in a row asking wassup?) before they finally agreed to ship me two of those things, and all that time my front fan grill couldn't be put back on. They made the process about as pleasurable as pulling teeth. If those things were available separately I'd buy a dozen of them right now.


----------



## chrisnyc75

On the Enthoo Two (my guess! lol), I'd like to see 85mm clearance between the top of the motherboard and the top of the case, so that a 60mm rad + 25mm fan would fit without question, regardless of ram height, vrm heatsink, etc.

I'd like to be able to switch the front panel door hinge to the other side without having to reinvent the wheel to do it.

And that stupid lower lip on the reservoir mount has to go, obviously.

Otherwise, I think the EP is kinda perfect.

You have to be careful how many "improvements" you want.... .20mm here, plus 7mm there, plus an extra inch on the other side.... it all adds up, and before you know it we're back to a Cosmos-like monstrosity. IMO the Enthoo's biggest advantage is that it allows you to do SO MUCH in a relatively small sleek space.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Edit:
> 
> Actually, I'd like to see a completely redesigned Enthoo Tweede. What a dumb sounding name, but that's 'Enthoo Second' in Dutch so I figure that might well be the name if there is one. Took me long enough to get used to 'Enthoo Primo'.


I think Enthoo Primo has a place as is with a few simple mods and improvements. Maybe Phanteks should make a bigger water cooling case to address these bigger radiators and GPUs.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> I'd like to see there be room in the bottom so a monsta 480 rad can be mounted sideways so airflow goes through the case from one side to the other (then you wouldn't need to raise the case feet for airflow which is desperately needed in the Primo), then put the PSU behind a shroud at the top of the mobo just like it is now in the bottom of the Primo. And make the case tall enough to put a monsta in the top w/o overhanging the mobo and deep enough to have enough room to fit a thick tube res to the right of the mobo with cards as long as 290mm if not longer..


Interesting idea,but where would PSU go? I wonder if PSU could be fit in back behind radiator.. or maybe with cables facing up and switch on bottom?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> And I'd like to see a better design than the push-click things to remove the filters. Maybe the same but more heavy-duty? I dunno. I've been through two of them already and have little-to-no faith they are going to last years. I'm worried every time I remove a filter now whether it's going to go back or not and don't want to have to deal with support again. It took me more than a week of back and forth emails (and they were VERY slow to respond - I had to wait more than a full weekday twice for a reply and both times didn't get one until I messaged back a second time in a row asking wassup?) before they finally agreed to ship me two of those things, and all that time my front fan grill couldn't be put back on. They made the process about as pleasurable as pulling teeth. If they were available separately I'd buy a dozen of them right now.


I'm having no problems with the push-click latches... knock on wood.

Every time I've contacted Phanteks I've had quick replies.. well once it got lost in cyberspace and I had to contact them a second time. But I do know they are kinda hit-n-miss at times. Hopefully they will solve that problem soon.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chrisnyc75*
> 
> On the Enthoo Two (my guess! lol), I'd like to see 85mm clearance between the top of the motherboard and the top of the case, so that a 60mm rad + 25mm fan would fit without question, regardless of ram height, vrm heatsink, etc.
> 
> I'd like to be able to switch the front panel door hinge to the other side without having to reinvent the wheel to do it.
> 
> And that stupid lower lip on the reservoir mount has to go, obviously.
> 
> Otherwise, I think the EP is kinda perfect.
> 
> You have to be careful how many "improvements" you want.... .20mm here, plus 7mm there, plus an extra inch on the other side.... it all adds up, and before you know it we're back to a Cosmos-like monstrosity. IMO the Enthoo's biggest advantage is that it allows you to do SO MUCH in a relatively small sleek space.


I agree.
I don't even want it taller.
Could see the bottom being re-designed with castors.. maybe with replaceable tall feet.. lower inside bottom down approx 20mm to allow added space at top. That would solve the bottom airflow problem and give more top radiator room with a 30mm increase in height.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> [...] I'd like to see there be room in the bottom so a monsta 480 rad can be mounted sideways so airflow goes through the case from one side to the other (then you wouldn't need to raise the case feet for airflow which is desperately needed in the Primo), *then put the PSU behind a shroud at the top of the mobo just like it is now in the bottom of the Primo.* And make the case tall enough to put a monsta in the top w/o overhanging the mobo and deep enough to have enough room to fit a thick tube res to the right of the mobo with cards as long as 290mm if not longer. [...]
> 
> 
> 
> [...]
> Interesting idea,but where would PSU go? I wonder if PSU could be fit in back behind radiator.. or maybe with cables facing up and switch on bottom?
> [...]
Click to expand...

In *bold*. I guess you missed it or maybe I wasn't clear enough.

I think the side mounted rad in the bottom (like a 900D or a caselabs or little devil, etc) is way better design for air flow/temps, that way you're not intaking heated air from the rad into the case or trying to exhaust it out the bottom only to have it raising the ambient all around the case.


----------



## Roxycon

deleted since it took long time to post.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sunreeper*
> 
> You both are really convincing me to go with the primo but there's two things that still draw me to the 900d. One it's so big and roomy one thing I don't like about the primo is that some builds look a little squished in the primo. Now some people may like that look but it doesn't appeal to me I want a little more room. The second thing that attracts me to the 900d is that I really really want a flipped motherboard tray so that the GPUs face up and the CPU faces down and that'll be easier on the 900d because it's flat. I still need to find somebody that can make a motherboard tray because if they could make a flipped one for the primo that would be amazing!


An inverted mobo isn't possible. You're not thinking about it hard enough. You can't just flip it upside-down. The whole case would have to be redesigned in a mirror image so you get to the motherboard from the right side of the case instead. The same goes for a 900D.

You'll need to get something like a Caselabs or Little Devil or a Lian Li (just a few that come to mind) that has a reverse mobo tray option.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> [...] I'd like to see there be room in the bottom so a monsta 480 rad can be mounted sideways so airflow goes through the case from one side to the other (then you wouldn't need to raise the case feet for airflow which is desperately needed in the Primo), *then put the PSU behind a shroud at the top of the mobo just like it is now in the bottom of the Primo.* And make the case tall enough to put a monsta in the top w/o overhanging the mobo and deep enough to have enough room to fit a thick tube res to the right of the mobo with cards as long as 290mm if not longer. [...]
> 
> 
> 
> [...]
> Interesting idea,but where would PSU go? I wonder if PSU could be fit in back behind radiator.. or maybe with cables facing up and switch on bottom?
> [...]
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> In *bold*. I guess you missed it or maybe I wasn't clear enough.
Click to expand...

I missed it.









That would mean increasing the height of case above the motherboard to accommodate the PSU... which would make it plenty tall enough for monsta to fit above motherboard. Of course the 480 on bottom sideways would allow motherboard to be lowered some.. not sure how tall it would end up being.

Tomorrow I have to start testing a new cooler for CYRORIG. Their R1 Ultimate arrive the 24th and they want my results ASAP. Than have to build another castor base for a 540. Busy, busy, busy.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cestessr*
> 
> Yes you are correct I only have a 280 and I think a 420 will fit but you would have to wire th mobo 8 pin and4pin first then wrestle the rad in. I push mine foward to avoid that next weef when I get the rest of my parts I will install everw thing and post some pics and try to slide rad back with all in


A 420 definitely fits .... thickness is the only consideration .... well sorta. I have a XT45-420 installed, as do others.... it fits no problem, ....unless you use a 60mm thick rad, you do not have to put 4 / 8 pins in first on 99% of MoBos. A 60mm will work on most MoBos ..... use the drawing (see below) to determine......Jesse's build over on ModZoo was one .... had a 60mm and he took it out cause wiring was tight and replaced with 45mm.

I had it figured that a 60mm wud fit but spent about 8 seconds thinking about it .... as I figured what's the point ? A XT45-420 handles 250 watts of heat load.... A UT60-420 provides just 6 watts more at 256... hardly seemed worth the effort for 6 watts.

There are images in this thread and drawings in post No. 1000

-Clearance at top w/ 45mm rad in place clears Heart Sink. Just over 1" verttical but even if was thicker, as with 60mm thick rad, heat sink doesn't reach fan / rad in horizontal dimension


-Will be 5/8" clearance after pull fans installed.....(1-5/8") without to the 90 Elbow coming outta M6F MoBo block.


-Plenty of room to RAM .... about 2-1/4 inches ... 60mm + fan would be 0.60 inches


-420 rad set forward @ 1" to provide access to top ports to be used as fill and bleed ports.


-Front of 420


-Another shot of heat sink clearance showing HS doesn't reach rad horizontlly


-Dimension drawing .... more detailed one in Post No. 1000


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

BTW, a recent topic highlighted the poor air flow design in the bottom of the Enthoo Primo ...

http://www.overclock.net/t/1453784/to-high-delta/0_20

For anyone who has a rad in the bottom of the case, and you haven't elevated the case feet or put it on a base with a opening in the bottom like Doyll has been building, you really should read that topic.

It's by far the biggest shortcoming in the design of the Enthoo Primo. Thankfully it can be pretty easily addressed.


----------



## bond32

I just installed a 420 Phobya g-changer I received from a member here on the forums. Took me quite a while, had to essentially disassemble the case to get it in. Wasn't prepared for all of that... Also I don't have access to the bleed screw, although not a big deal. The phoyba g-changer is identical to the ut-60 minus the brass tubes over copper so you can see how it fits (60mm rad) with my setup:


----------



## JackNaylorPE

I got the 420 in from the side tilting it with the front end high and the back end low and on its side .... sticking the top end into the 5.25 bays and then rotating it to horizontal..... As I recall that's how Jesse got his 60mm one in too..... another user in this thread slid it in from the front thru the 5.25 bays after taking the bay covers off.


----------



## Sunreeper

Alrighty I've decided I'm getting this case and nothings going to stop me from flipping that motherboard tray!


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sunreeper*
> 
> Alrighty I've decided I'm getting this case and nothings going to stop me from flipping that motherboard tray!


Flipping the tray is not going to be possible.
You're clearly not thinking it through.

If you flip the mobo upside down the I/O ports & slots will face the front of the case. You would have to have a mirrored image of the case so that the motherboard can be accessed from the right side of the case for the tray to be able to be flipped over and have your I/O ports and expansions slots at the rear of the case.

The only way you are going to pull that off is to flip the entire case on it's top.


----------



## bond32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> I got the 420 in from the side tilting it with the front end high and the back end low and on its side .... sticking the top end into the 5.25 bays and then rotating it to horizontal..... As I recall that's how Jesse got his 60mm one in too..... another user in this thread slid it in from the front thru the 5.25 bays after taking the bay covers off.


I totally tried that, no luck. Not sure why...

In any case it just took time, had to remove the panels, front panel, and top. Also removed the 480 rad I just installed in the bottom to get that side panel back in after installing the 420.


----------



## Sunreeper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Sunreeper*
> 
> Alrighty I've decided I'm getting this case and nothings going to stop me from flipping that motherboard tray!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Flipping the tray is not going to be possible.
> You're clearly not thinking it through.
> 
> If you flip the mobo upside down the I/O ports & slots will face the front of the case. You would have to have a mirrored image of the case so that the motherboard can be accessed from the right side of the case for the tray to be able to be flipped over and have your I/O ports and expansions slots at the rear of the case.
> 
> The only way you are going to pull that off is to flip the entire case on it's top.
Click to expand...

I didn't mean literally flip the existing motherboard tray







I'm most likely going to see if an artisan can make one.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sunreeper*
> 
> I didn't mean literally flip the existing motherboard tray
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm most likely going to see if an artisan can make one.


You said:
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sunreeper*
> 
> [...] *I really really want a flipped motherboard tray so that the GPUs face up and the CPU faces down* and that'll be easier on the 900d because it's flat. I still need to find somebody that can make a motherboard tray because if they could make a flipped one for the primo that would be amazing!


I'm saying that no one will be able to make you one.

What you want to do is not possible in an Enthoo Primo or a 900D unless you basically flip the entire case upside down and set it on it's roof. The extent of that kind of mod, they might as well create you an entirely new case from scratch. To have an inverted mobo ("so that the GPUs face up and the CPU faces down") requires being able to access the mobo from the right side of the case instead of the left side.


----------



## Sunreeper

Ahh I see what you mean now but I've seen it done by members here



Build log: http://www.overclock.net/t/1306241/build-log-the-switched-switch-a-reverse-atx-switch-810

Worst comes to worst I'll have to choose another case


----------



## Roxycon

I think is very doable since you could take of all covers, flip the bare casing and make the appropriete moutning holes for the top and bottom covers, the fron plate either have to be flipped or youll need to cut the bottom and the top of the front cover (this will make the odd bay situated at the bottom and hdd bays at top) a added feature would be that yuo can mount the fatest rad in the top and youll have plenty of space for a fill port if you accomodate this with the top cover









Io would be at the wrong sid, windowed side panel would be upside down and youll have to be creative with holes from covers to the inside of the case.. And youll be obligated to do a build log, on the minus side


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Repeated some temperature benching and had some HUGE surprises

http://www.overclock.net/t/1453784/to-high-delta/10#post_21465466

Basically .... with fans at 1200 rpm-ish

-Top screen filter, with 420 under it, when removed gives me another 4.4C of cooling

-Bottom Filter removal and raising the case 1.5" got me 1.3C

That is NOT to say there is more restriction on top than on bottom.

1. This is with Phanteks 1200 rpm fans.... higher rpm fans with more SP may overcome the loss thru the screens filters.

2. This was prolly more affected by the relative size of the top and bottom rads than anything else...... the 280 on the bottom left a large area of floor mesh exposed that was able to serve as a source of fresh air from the front fans which was pulled "down under" by the draft created by the fans, due to bottom restrictions. With the 420 on top covering almost the entire surface area, no opportunity for similar effect up top.


----------



## Pierre3400

Hey guys,

I saw this case, and bought it right away, its my dream case, from what i can see. With that said, there is one thing i cant seem to be sure off.

I am going togo with 480 in the top, but how thick a rad can i fit,when i want to do push/pull? 45mm?


----------



## Sunreeper

Push pull with a 45mm rad should be doable


----------



## Pierre3400

But 60 would be too much??

How about the side mount, i will have a 480 in the bottom also, and would like a 240 on the side, once more puch pull. How thick can I go there?

Its hard trying to order parts without the case


----------



## Gunilla95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pierre3400*
> 
> But 60 would be too much??
> 
> How about the side mount, i will have a 480 in the bottom also, and would like a 240 on the side, once more puch pull. How thick can I go there?
> 
> Its hard trying to order parts without the case


Shiv15 got up some pics on that.
hes using a monsta. and got space for a small one.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pierre3400*
> 
> Hey guys,
> 
> I saw this case, and bought it right away, its my dream case, from what i can see. With that said, there is one thing i cant seem to be sure off.
> 
> I am going togo with 480 in the top, but how thick a rad can i fit,when i want to do push/pull? 45mm?


A 45mm thick 120-series rad (240, 360, 480) or 140-series rad (280, 420) will fit in the top in push-pull (with 25mm thick fans top & bottom) with any motherboard. Thicker rads, all the way up to an 80mm monsta, may be able to fit by overhanging the top of the mobo provided you don't have anything too tall (ram, heatsink, etc).

This has all been answered in the FAQ in the very first post of this thread (thanks to Jesse at TheModZoo):
Quote:


> *FAQ*
> 
> *What is the max clearance for a radiator installed in the top panel?*
> - The case has a clearance of 70mm for mounting a radiator in the roof. The mounts are offset by ~54mm so installing a 60mm (120mm series) radiator in push pull should not be an issue. As long as you do not have anything taller than 53mm on the motherboard (including ram), you can even install a 480mm monsta radiator in push pull. The X79 Dark, and G-Skill ram CAN be used with a monsta rad in push pull.


A while back when answering this question I had made an image illustrating it ...



^ If you don't have anything taller than 54mm on your mobo it's possible you could put a 120-series (240, 360, 480) 60mm or 80mm monsta up top in push-pull. I've yet to see anyone put a monsta up there yet though. A monsta in push-pull would need to overhang the board by 35mm.


----------



## Gunilla95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> A 45mm thick 120-series rad (240, 360, 480) or 140-series rad (280, 420) will fit in the top in push-pull (with 25mm thick fans top & bottom) with any motherboard. Thicker rads, all the way up to an 80mm monsta, may be able to fit by overhanging the top of the mobo provided you don't have anything too tall (ram, heatsink, etc).
> 
> This has all been answered in the FAQ in the very first post of this thread (thanks to Jesse at TheModZoo):
> A while back when answering this question I had made an image illustrating it ...


do we have a FAQ on this page?


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gunilla95*
> 
> do we have a FAQ on this page?


There's a FAQ that answers the most common questions on the very first post of this topic that I believe has been borrowed & posted with permission from Jesse at TheModZoo.


----------



## Gunilla95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> There's a FAQ that answers the most common questions on the very first post of this topic that I believe has been borrowed & posted with permission from Jesse at TheModZoo.


Nice! I have read the modzoo FAQ. didnt now we finally got it here


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> Repeated some temperature benching and had some HUGE surprises
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1453784/to-high-delta/10#post_21465466
> 
> Basically .... with fans at 1200 rpm-ish
> 
> -Top screen filter, with 420 under it, when removed gives me another 4.4C of cooling
> 
> -Bottom Filter removal and raising the case 1.5" got me 1.3C
> 
> That is NOT to say there is more restriction on top than on bottom.
> 
> 1. This is with Phanteks 1200 rpm fans.... higher rpm fans with more SP may overcome the loss thru the screens filters.
> 
> 2. This was prolly more affected by the relative size of the top and bottom rads than anything else...... the 280 on the bottom left a large area of floor mesh exposed that was able to serve as a source of fresh air from the front fans which was pulled "down under" by the draft created by the fans, due to bottom restrictions. With the 420 on top covering almost the entire surface area, no opportunity for similar effect up top.


Nice bit of testing!









Have to love it when a plan comes together.









I've been playing with the idea of changing the top vent mesh with 4.5mm hexagonal holes.. and probably front as well.

Hexagonal Hole

Hexagonal holes 4.5mm;
Staggered pitch 5mm
Hole: H4.5
Pitch: T5
Material Thickness (mm): 1.0
Open Area 81%


Problem is it's in 1 x 2 meter sheets.


----------



## Gunilla95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Nice bit of testing!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Have to love it when a plan comes together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've been playing with the idea of changing the top vent mesh with 4.5mm hexagonal holes.. and probably front as well.
> 
> Hexagonal Hole
> 
> Hexagonal holes 4.5mm;
> Staggered pitch 5mm
> Hole: H4.5
> Pitch: T5
> Material Thickness (mm): 1.0
> Open Area 81%
> 
> 
> Problem is it's in 1 x 2 meter sheets.


dont you get it smaller? here in sweden i can just go into a special shop for it and say i want 2 pieces in that and that size.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gunilla95*
> 
> dont you get it smaller? here in sweden i can just go into a special shop for it and say i want 2 pieces in that and that size.


Probably. Finding a local shop that stocks it is the problem. I don't know how it is packed when shipped. If it can be rolled up to about 30-40cm diameter fine, but if it's shipped flat it would be expensive.

This Hex mesh seems to be the best for airflow. I'm not sure about hole size. I think 4.5mm is about right, or is it too big?
MNPCTech sell Honeycomb (hexagonal) mess 1/4" (*6.35mm*) holes; 9/32" (*7.14mm*) stagger and 22g (*0.76mm*) thick.
I'm thinking to getting smaller hexagonal hole size of *4.5 mm*, a stagger of *5 mm* and sheet thickness of *1mm*.

To make it fit I'm thinking of using a piece of hardwood the size of opening minus clearance and metal thickness and clamp the piece of mesh with the amount I want to bend at right angle sticking over. Than use a thin flat tool.. like a 50mm wood chisel.. to bend it.

Probably remove front grill center and mesh and replace with above mesh to fit full opening... same look as top vent.


----------



## doyll

FYI --- $219.99 w/free shipping at Newegg right now.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811854001


----------



## Gunilla95

How many watt can one port on the pwm hub deliver?
Gonna huck up another hub on the first one and want to know i dont kill it


----------



## bond32

I have an nzxt 10 port hub on mine with 8 ap15's on the hub. Also have all 5 phanteks fans on the phanteks hub, runs great so far.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gunilla95*
> 
> How many watt can one port on the pwm hub deliver?
> Gonna huck up another hub on the first one and want to know i dont kill it


Not sure anyone has been able to pull a wattage rating for the hub out of Phanteks yet. The manual only states that a "_Total of 11 fans can be connected to the PWM hub_". I would assume that doesn't apply to 6 watt per fan 10,000 rpm Deltas.


----------



## Gunilla95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> I have an nzxt 10 port hub on mine with 8 ap15's on the hub. Also have all 5 phanteks fans on the phanteks hub, runs great so far.


exactly the same i am about to hook up to it







great to hear it works


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gunilla95*
> 
> How many watt can one port on the pwm hub deliver?
> Gonna huck up another hub on the first one and want to know i dont kill it


Phanteks says 2 fans on each 3 pin header... except for the master fan header. What wattage that is has yet to be determined. I've repeatedly asked Phanteks for that data. Customer service is great but it seems the engineers don't want to share.


----------



## bond32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gunilla95*
> 
> exactly the same i am about to hook up to it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> great to hear it works


The hub probably pulls over 35 watts at startup, but I'm not concerned. Runs rather well actually, just can't see the rpm of the ap-15's


----------



## Gunilla95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> The hub probably pulls over 35 watts at startup, but I'm not concerned. Runs rather well actually, just can't see the rpm of the ap-15's


well i have so many rads that i dont really care. im gonna thruttle them down until i bearly hear them and then keep em there for the rest of there lives


----------



## cestessr

I got some of my parts so I started had no trouble fitting 280x60mm in push pull confg. with Asus Maximus V Extreme mobo and G-Skills Ripjaws Z mem. My GTX-760s even fit with res. mounting bar intact.


----------



## Gunilla95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cestessr*
> 
> I got some of my parts so I started had no trouble fitting 280x60mm in push pull confg. with Asus Maximus V Extreme mobo and G-Skills Ripjaws Z mem. My GTX-760s even fit with res. mounting bar intact.


looks awesome!


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pierre3400*
> 
> Hey guys,
> 
> I saw this case, and bought it right away, its my dream case, from what i can see. With that said, there is one thing i cant seem to be sure off.
> 
> I am going togo with 480 in the top, but how thick a rad can i fit,when i want to do push/pull? 45mm?


This question is asked every cupla pages it seems







. A 120x480 is an easy fit at thicknesses up to 45mm ..... 60mm will fit on most MoBos .... so the usual question is what am I giving by dropping from 60mm to 45 mm ? Ya giving up about 7 watts of cooling w/ 1250 rpm fans

The XT45x480 gives ya 296 watts of cooling according to martins testing at 1250 rpm whereas the UT60x480 gives ya 303 watts ...

Tho....despite all that being said, I'd highly recommend a 420 instead.

1. The XT45x420 gives ya 302 watts in push pull .... just 1 watt less than the UT60x480....and 6 more than the XT480
2. The XT45x420 fits in while allowing the top rad ports to be used as convenient
3. The XT45x420 ($85 rad + 6 x $16 for fans = $181) is $60 cheaper than than the XT45x480 ($105 + 8 x 16 = $233)

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> The hub probably pulls over 35 watts at startup, but I'm not concerned. Runs rather well actually, just can't see the rpm of the ap-15's


I have 8 Phanteks SP140s running off my 1 amp rated MoBo header.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Nice bit of testing!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Have to love it when a plan comes together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've been playing with the idea of changing the top vent mesh with 4.5mm hexagonal holes.. and probably front as well.


I thot Jesse mentioned that too.....this is 24' x 12"

http://mnpctech.com/case-mods-gaming-pc-liquid-modding-custom-computer-mnpctech-overclock-cooling-fan-grills/modders-mesh-honeycomb.html

Need 20" x 7"

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cestessr*
> 
> I got some of my parts so I started had no trouble fitting 280x60mm in push pull confg. with Asus Maximus V Extreme mobo and G-Skills Ripjaws Z mem. My GTX-760s even fit with res. mounting bar intact


The 280 shouldn't be bad at all since ya don't gotta do the tilt and rotate dance.... only thing ya generally gotta worry about is the 8 pin EPS cable access after the fact and the MPCIE combo cards on the Maximus VI series and VERY tall MoBo heatsinks..... The 760s are a piece of cake.....even 780s no problem if water cooled (except for Lightning / Classified).

As you progress with other parts purchases, there's a dimensional drawing in post # 1000 with all dimensions and clearances.

Looking at ya pics makes me wish the Phanteks fans were all white


----------



## Pierre3400

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> This question is asked every cupla pages it seems
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . A 120x480 is an easy fit at thicknesses up to 45mm ..... 60mm will fit on most MoBos .... so the usual question is what am I giving by dropping from 60mm to 45 mm ? Ya giving up about 7 watts of cooling w/ 1250 rpm fans
> 
> The XT45x480 gives ya 296 watts of cooling according to martins testing at 1250 rpm whereas the UT60x480 gives ya 303 watts ...
> 
> Tho....despite all that being said, I'd highly recommend a 420 instead.
> 
> 1. The XT45x420 gives ya 302 watts in push pull .... just 1 watt less than the UT60x480....and 6 more than the XT480
> 2. The XT45x420 fits in while allowing the top rad ports to be used as convenient
> 3. The XT45x420 ($85 rad + 6 x $16 for fans = $181) is $60 cheaper than than the XT45x480 ($105 + 8 x 16 = $233)


As far as my build goes, i will be running 1x Alphacool 480 Monsta in the buttom with 8x GT AP15s

The plan was to run 480 Alphacool 45mm with 8x GT AP15s, and then another 240mm push/pull on the side. I am rally looking for silenced system, as that plan failed last time.

4770K
MaximusVI formula, planning the EK blocks for it.
2x 7970's with EK uni VGA blocks.

I am sure i should have enough damn cooling this time, but the idea of going for the 45mm 420, aint a stupid one, being that it will make life much easier as far as airing out the system.

Right now, i have 2 issues.

1, I really hate 140mm fans, non of them tickle my fancy as much as GT's do (and i just bought 12) (dont worry, non will go to waist lol)
2, I need to finda PCB where i can plug all my fans into, for power, but still be controlled by my Aquaero LT 5, any ideas, i know the case come with one, but does it let me control it like i wish?

Edit:

How are the Akasa Viper?


----------



## JackNaylorPE

*Phanteks PH-F140XP_BK 140mm PWM Case Fan $7.99* on newegg after $10 rebate

Purchase before 01/02/14

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835709022

Phanteks140XPRebate.pdf 146k .pdf file


----------



## Gunilla95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pierre3400*
> 
> As far as my build goes, i will be running 1x Alphacool 480 Monsta in the buttom with 8x GT AP15s
> 
> The plan was to run 480 Alphacool 45mm with 8x GT AP15s, and then another 240mm push/pull on the side. I am rally looking for silenced system, as that plan failed last time.
> 
> 4770K
> MaximusVI formula, planning the EK blocks for it.
> 2x 7970's with EK uni VGA blocks.
> 
> I am sure i should have enough damn cooling this time, but the idea of going for the 45mm 420, aint a stupid one, being that it will make life much easier as far as airing out the system.
> 
> Right now, i have 2 issues.
> 
> 1, I really hate 140mm fans, non of them tickle my fancy as much as GT's do (and i just bought 12) (dont worry, non will go to waist lol)
> 2, I need to finda PCB where i can plug all my fans into, for power, but still be controlled by my Aquaero LT 5, any ideas, i know the case come with one, but does it let me control it like i wish?
> 
> Edit:
> 
> How are the Akasa Viper?


im going for the PWM hub thats in the case. (yes you can control all your fans with it). and then a NZXT Grid on that hub for my 480 puch/pull fans.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pierre3400*
> 
> As far as my build goes, i will be running 1x Alphacool 480 Monsta in the buttom with 8x GT AP15s
> 
> The plan was to run 480 Alphacool 45mm with 8x GT AP15s, and then another 240mm push/pull on the side. I am rally looking for silenced system, as that plan failed last time.


That's why I recommend the 420 / 280.... increased fan performance at lower noise

-4770K - In my build also

- MaximusVI formula, planning the EK blocks for it. - in my build, minus the EK blocks...redundant and extremely difficult to plumb with rigid acrylic.

-2x 7970's with EK uni VGA blocks - went with twin 780s w/ full cover short blocks.... have 25% OC on core, 20% on memory and boost clock peaking at just under 40% OC.
Quote:


> Right now, i have 2 issues.
> 
> 1, I really hate 140mm fans, non of them tickle my fancy as much as GT's do (and i just bought 12) (dont worry, non will go to waist lol)
> 2, I need to finda PCB where i can plug all my fans into, for power, but still be controlled by my Aquaero LT 5, any ideas, i know the case come with one, but does it let me control it like i wish?


Last year the 140s got their asses whipped, but there's year's 140's swept the floor with the 120s in SPCR's testing.... the 140s took 4 of the top 5 spots. In the 1st round Phanteks took top spot .... and the only 120mm in the top 5 (4th place) was the Noiseblocker B12-2 ..... the Scythe GT 120-12 took 6th place and the Corsair AF120s took 8th. The GT 140mm took 11th place.

I had 10 SP140s on my build list but at time of purchase, they only had 5 in stock ..... I'm running a delta T of like 8C with just 5 fans in push at 1200 rpm..... GPU temps at 38C last nite's testing under Furmark. CPU testing tonight .... but expecting to beat the 74-ish at 4.6C which is what I got with old BIOS.... tested with new BIOS but had installed top fan grille / filter which I found was stealing 4.4C from me.


----------



## Pierre3400

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gunilla95*
> 
> im going for the PWM hub thats in the case. (yes you can control all your fans with it). and then a NZXT Grid on that hub for my 480 puch/pull fans.


I dont feel confident that you understand what i am looking for.

I am looking for a PCB/hub as you call it.

Where i plug a molex into, then plug all my fans, and then plug a cable running from my Aquaero LT5 into the hub. so that the settings given from the Aquaero, will be what the fans do, yet, its not the aquaero powering all the fans.

This is as close as i can get, yet the GT AP15s arnt PWM, and the aquaero doesnt use PWM on all channels, only one.

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/20988/ele-1196/Swiftech_8-Way_PWM_Cable_Splitter_-_SATA_Power_8W-PWM-SPL-ST.html?tl=g34c17s424#blank


----------



## Gunilla95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pierre3400*
> 
> I dont feel confident that you understand what i am looking for.
> 
> I am looking for a PCB/hub as you call it.
> 
> Where i plug a molex into, then plug all my fans, and then plug a cable running from my Aquaero LT5 into the hub. so that the settings given from the Aquaero, will be what the fans do, yet, its not the aquaero powering all the fans.
> 
> This is as close as i can get, yet the GT AP15s arnt PWM, and the aquaero doesnt use PWM on all channels, only one.
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/20988/ele-1196/Swiftech_8-Way_PWM_Cable_Splitter_-_SATA_Power_8W-PWM-SPL-ST.html?tl=g34c17s424#blank


BUT! the enthoo hub has a molex and a 4 pin for controll so its what you are looking for?


----------



## Pierre3400

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gunilla95*
> 
> BUT! the enthoo hub has a molex and a 4 pin for controll so its what you are looking for?


But will it also work without the PWM function?

Being that the controller i would want to control its from a 3pin fan controller.


----------



## Gunilla95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pierre3400*
> 
> But will it also work without the PWM function?
> 
> Being that the controller i would want to control its from a 3pin fan controller.


sadly no =( i been working on that for a while you need a 4 pin signal for the hub to even start..


----------



## Pierre3400

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gunilla95*
> 
> sadly no =( i been working on that for a while you need a 4 pin signal for the hub to even start..


And that is sadly the problem i am waking up to.

The Aquaero fan controller, in its basic form is double the price of the top of the range fan controllers, but its also twice as good. It does have one PWM, but this means I will have to run all my fans of one pwm, and that take a lot of the point out of the controller.

Option 2 is get the the Aquaero 6 with 4x PWM


----------



## doyll

Pierre3400
Could you use the CPU fan header on motherboard for PWM signal?


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gunilla95*
> 
> sadly no =( i been working on that for a while you need a 4 pin signal for the hub to even start..


With a 4 pin signal from a MoBo Chassis header ..... which I do NOT believe is PWM, in my case at least with the M6F, plugging the Molex in immediately sends all fans to 100% speed. My plan

PCB 1 = Rad Fans (5)
PCB 2 = Case Fans (3)

If I move to push / pull

PCB 1 = Top Rad Fans (6)
PCB 2 = Bot Rad Fans (4)
PCB 3 = Case Fans (3)

Both my CPU Headers are being used by the 35x2 .... I'm told if I plugged PCB into one of those, it would work "as advertised".

Tight now I have 6 fans running off the CHA_2 header ....didn't wanna take it higher than that ....remaining 2 fans in side panel are sitting on the floor w/ the as yet uninstalled side panel.


----------



## Hereisphilly

Just whipped out my 150mm tube res and replaced it with a 250, now it looks so much better, really fills the case well I think! Thankyou phobya for selling just the middle acrylic tube, so you don't have to buy the top and bottom again



I've got the itch for more though, i don't know what to add/change next....


----------



## bond32

Use the nzxt fan hub... All it is a way to power 10 3 pin fans from 1 3 pin connection...


----------



## Sunreeper

Anybody think that it'll be possible to get a light box in this case?


----------



## Kounty01

Just got finished my build in this case! Pure awesome everything a case should be!!









Is there plastic covering on the inside of the side panel window from shipping mine window seems really hazy?


----------



## Gunilla95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kounty01*
> 
> Just got finished my build in this case! Pure awesome everything a case should be!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Is there plastic covering on the inside of the side panel window from shipping mine window seems really hazy?


you got plastic protection on the outside of the window but the inside has non. I had a giant scratch in mine. Phanteks are about to ship me a new window after a short mail to the support.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hereisphilly*
> 
> Just whipped out my 150mm tube res and replaced it with a 250, now it looks so much better, really fills the case well I think! Thankyou phobya for selling just the middle acrylic tube, so you don't have to buy the top and bottom again
> 
> I've got the itch for more though, i don't know what to add/change next....


Yes,\that was one of the reasons I went with the EK, was that I could use the parts modularly......if teh GFX cards were longer, was planning to stack two 150s, one either side of the 5.25" baysbottom plate.

As for what's next ..... acrylic rigid tube ? .... paint fan casings white ?

Speaking of the latter .... anyone try taking the fan motor / blades out yet ?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kounty01*
> 
> Just got finished my build in this case! Pure awesome everything a case should be!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Is there plastic covering on the inside of the side panel window from shipping mine window seems really hazy?


There is / was .... I had plastic covering on both sides anyway. But obvious as it extended past the edge of window.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> As for what's next ..... acrylic rigid tube ? .... paint fan casings white ?
> 
> Speaking of the latter .... anyone try taking the fan motor / blades out yet ?


I know of someone who tried and broke the fan.


----------



## Kounty01

Thanks for the replies









Sadly no plastic on the inside of the window I was really hoping that there was plastic causing the haziness.

I also have scratch in my window. My biggest complaint with this case so far is the lack of quality control. I have paint lacking in corners and metal with gouges painted over on the logo plate,etc.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kounty01*
> 
> Thanks for the replies
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sadly no plastic on the inside of the window I was really hoping that there was plastic causing the haziness.
> 
> I also have scratch in my window. My biggest complaint with this case so far is the lack of quality control. I have paint lacking in corners and metal with gouges painted over on the logo plate,etc.


I think what happened is that due to the unexpected demand for the case, they were forced to rapidly expand staffing .... I had issues like Molex connectors installed backwards, awkwardly bent tabs that would imply "the new guy" built that part.....not exactly mistakes of inattention or carelessness, just inexperience or lack of training. Phanteks has been great tho at stepping up and resolving any issues.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> I know of someone who tried and broke the fan.


I break stuff all the time ..... but I'm just good at it







After I break something, I then come on OCN and ask how to do it correctly.


----------



## Kounty01

I think your right. I am not to conserved about the minor flaws the window is going to drive me nuts tho lol.

Do your release tabs work correctly on the fan filters and front fan panel?

What did everyone use for screws for the bottom rad fans. I had issue with stock xspc screws interfering with bottom filters going back I place.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> I know of someone who tried and broke the fan.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I break stuff all the time ..... but I'm just good at it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After I break something, I then come on OCN and ask how to do it correctly.
Click to expand...

Once it's broken it's usually obvious how it comes apart.


----------



## 47 Knucklehead

Well, for those who are looking for a bit more room for a tube reservoir (or for a neat way to do a tube and twin D5 pumps), with just a VERY LITTLE bit of trimming, here is my suggestion. I had to do this mainly to get enough room to clear a pair of massive GTX 780 Classified video cards.



I actually didn't like how that looked with a bit of U-channel molding, so I made the cut from one side of the drive bay to the other side.



Measure and drill three holes to hold the whole assembly on the side panel.



Here is the mock up.



As you can see, just by removing about 8mm of material will give you PLENTY of "vibration clearance" on both sides of the reservoir/pump top.

Yes, you will lose your two lower removable drive bays, but I plan on putting either an RX240 in "push" on the side (or a 30mm 280 radiator in "push/pull") anyway ... along with the 30mm 480 in "push/pull" up top and a 60mm 360 in "push/pull" on the bottom.


----------



## Kounty01

Thanks 47! I cant wait to see how your build turns out!! What did u use for the led strip mod? (links if possible)


----------



## Hereisphilly

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> Yes,\that was one of the reasons I went with the EK, was that I could use the parts modularly......if teh GFX cards were longer, was planning to stack two 150s, one either side of the 5.25" baysbottom plate.
> 
> As for what's next ..... acrylic rigid tube ? .... paint fan casings white ?


The modularity is great, saved me at least £20 in just getting the £4 acrylic tube. Yeah I had my eye on rigid tubing, I'm Just a bit unsure on how complex if is to do, not to mention I can't use any of my current fittings

Hardware wise there isn't really anything right now that makes good sense to buy. I have a decent Z87 board and CPU, and my 2 680s are faster than a single 780, so if I want any more graphics power I would need to drop at least £1000 on new cards and blocks! I was hoping to wait till the next line of cards before getting one, so I'm kinda at an pont where I'm not sure what to get next


----------



## Kurodragon

Finally all set up. I feel like crap, I should not have bought that Cocaine energy drink from FrozenCPU. I'm a bit nervous about leaks, doing a test now but hearing the water falling into the res makes me nervous.



I couldn't get my compression fittings all the way down but I hope this is good enough? I can't turn them any more.


The 420 on top was a huge pain to get in, I basically had to remove everything and unscrew a ton of screws to bend some pieces. Special thanks to @JackNaylorPE for the tip about the 420 on top with shifting it over to use as a fill/air port.


----------



## bond32

Yeah, my 420 was a massive pain as well. Ended out almost disassembling the entire case to fit it in.... Plus mine doesnt have the additional ports on the top like the UT60 does, just has them on the side. It does have the bleed screw though which is nice although I haven't used it yet.


----------



## Roxycon

Compressions dont need to go all the way down to be secure as long as the hose is all the way down on the inner piece of the fitting, and to be frankly, forcing the outer ring all the way down can compromise the security.. Although it needed quite a pressure from my end to get the hose out of place when i forced it


----------



## 47 Knucklehead

Just for grins, I have created a "Phanteks Enthoo Primo Owners Group" page on Facebook. Feel free to stop on by and show off your builds.


----------



## Kurodragon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roxycon*
> 
> Compressions dont need to go all the way down to be secure as long as the hose is all the way down on the inner piece of the fitting, and to be frankly, forcing the outer ring all the way down can compromise the security.. Although it needed quite a pressure from my end to get the hose out of place when i forced it


We got them as tight as possible with fingers, no tools. I hope I didn't over tighten. If no leaks after this test, should be good.

Anyone know the pump speed with no pwm signal? I have my pump running but it seems very quiet. I just hear water pouring into my res mostly. My buddy told me it was 60%.


----------



## Roxycon

Yhea sounds good







just check in on them and retighten in about two weeks or so since the hose gets seated and expands a little in the heat


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hereisphilly*
> 
> The modularity is great, saved me at least £20 in just getting the £4 acrylic tube. Yeah I had my eye on rigid tubing, I'm Just a bit unsure on how complex if is to do, not to mention I can't use any of my current fittings


The fittings are a loss but they can be saved.... I'd keep 2 anyways to do the pump connections. I found it quite easy to tell the truth, hand sawing was a PITA but when I took the ole scroll saw in from the garage was cake.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kounty01*
> 
> What did everyone use for screws for the bottom rad fans. I had issue with stock xspc screws interfering with bottom filters going back I place.


I just used the alphacool screws with 2 washes as the heads go thru the rad mounting platform.... were you using the platform or just laying on the floor ?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *47 Knucklehead*
> 
> Well, for those who are looking for a bit more room for a tube reservoir (or for a neat way to do a tube and twin D5 pumps), with just a VERY LITTLE bit of trimming, here is my suggestion. I had to do this mainly to get enough room to clear a pair of massive GTX 780 Classified video cards.


I wuda lent ya my 780 Classified .....so ya didn't have to risk ya new card while modding'



Yea that's the Ti but when ya flip the cardboard over it becomes a Classy 780









You're braver than me .... I didn't wanna cuit so found an alternate method...... my solution (if it came to that) was to use two 150mm res's separated by a connector tube....



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kurodragon*
> 
> The 420 on top was a huge pain to get in, I basically had to remove everything and unscrew a ton of screws to bend some pieces. Special thanks to @JackNaylorPE for the tip about the 420 on top with shifting it over to use as a fill/air port.


What rad...with the Alphacool 420 .... ya put it in sideways with the 6 port end down in the rear ....top of rad facing you and drain port end up high in the 5.25" bays..... then left up....hand in thru front drive bays .... start lifting up low end and rotate into place.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kurodragon*
> 
> Anyone know the pump speed with no pwm signal? I have my pump running but it seems very quiet. I just hear water pouring into my res mostly. My buddy told me it was 60%.


The 35x2 is 100% until it gets PWM signal .... that's why I plugged in just 1 of the 2 pumps to fill.


----------



## bond32

For the bottom rad, use the screws in the toolbox the case came with. They have a smaller head, makes the filters slide in easier but not perfect... Also I didn't use all of them for my 480, about half actually.

Has anyone mounted a 3.5'' hard drive anywhere else other than the drive cages and the 5.25'' bays? I need to mount one drive which would eliminate my need for a drive cage...


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> Has anyone mounted a 3.5'' hard drive anywhere else other than the drive cages and the 5.25'' bays? I need to mount one drive which would eliminate my need for a drive cage...


I used one cage ... put in 2 HDs and 2 SSDs by taking the SSD mount and installing it in a HD tray.. Have you used up 8 bays already ? Seems ya could get away with mounting one on the side of thr 5.25 bays or above the PSU on back of MoBo Tray


----------



## bond32

I actually mounted the hard drive sideways on the rubber pump pad. Works quite well! I'll take some pictures


----------



## 47 Knucklehead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> Has anyone mounted a 3.5'' hard drive anywhere else other than the drive cages and the 5.25'' bays? I need to mount one drive which would eliminate my need for a drive cage...


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> I actually mounted the hard drive sideways on the rubber pump pad. Works quite well! I'll take some pictures


I'm going to look into making a 3.5" bracket to mount a hard drive there. Either that or I'll mount the one HDD that I plan on putting in my system in a 3.5" to 5.25" adapter and put it in the fixed bay. I plan on putting my flow sensor on the pad where you put yours.


----------



## Kounty01

Thanks @jacknaylorpe for all of your replies. right now I have my 360 xspc rad mounted right to floor. Once Ac cool rads come in I will use platform should help quiet fans down to.

Is there a way to get another pwm hub? Would like one for each rad.


----------



## chrisnyc75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kounty01*
> 
> Thanks for the replies
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sadly no plastic on the inside of the window I was really hoping that there was plastic causing the haziness.


The window on mine is hazy, too. My guess is that the the plexi was either installed before it was properly finished, or it was subjected to a harsh cleaner after assembly (glass/metal cleaners like Windex actually damage plexi very easily). I was thinking about ordering some polish to try to clear it up...

http://www.novuspolish.com/fine_scratch_remover.html


----------



## Kurodragon

All done!

Now I hear coil whine from my PSU







Didn't start until after I moved it off the floor back onto the desk. Hopefully it will go away soon.


----------



## Sunreeper

I have the same problem with my PSU there's no coil whine when you place the PSU with its fan facing upwards but as soon as you put it sideways or fan facing downwards it produces this pretty annoying noise


----------



## bond32

Pics of the hard drive on the pump base:


----------



## OutlawII

Here is one for me


----------



## Gunilla95

so guys you are trying to get rid of your HDD cages im working to keep them.


----------



## Hereisphilly

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> The fittings are a loss but they can be saved.... I'd keep 2 anyways to do the pump connections. I found it quite easy to tell the truth, hand sawing was a PITA but when I took the ole scroll saw in from the garage was cake.


Ah cool, thanks for tip on sawing, might have to have a look into it! Did you do any hot bending or did you do all the turns with connectors?


----------



## Hereisphilly

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gunilla95*
> 
> so guys you are trying to get rid of your HDD cages im working to keep them.


Snap! I did the same, best way to go IMO, as I will need the disk space at some point



What rad are you using and what did you use to cut the holes?


----------



## Gunilla95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hereisphilly*
> 
> Snap! I did the same, best way to go IMO, as I will need the disk space at some point
> 
> 
> 
> What rad are you using and what did you use to cut the holes?


Nice! i already have 8,5 T disk space in use so... hdd space is needed









i used a step drill from a local shop










EDIT: i use a 45mm alphacool 240 rad and the two stock fans on that.


----------



## Hereisphilly

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gunilla95*
> 
> Nice! i already have 8,5 T disk space in use so... hdd space is needed
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i used a step drill from a local shop
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT: i use a 45mm alphacool 240 rad and the two stock fans on that.


Sweet, I used a 20mm hole punch, but had to drill pilot holes 1st
Yeah I will be needing the disk space, as I'm growing my NAS, and the 6tb I have as a backup atm will need to increase to compensate

Cool, same rad as me, it just just squeezes in doesn't it!!


----------



## bond32

Curious, any of you leave the case on the floor without any stand-offs? I have my rig on a small table next to my desk but it sure is wobbly. If it goes on the floor it goes on carpet, so ideally I need some casters... Maybe that will be my next project.


----------



## Gunilla95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hereisphilly*
> 
> Sweet, I used a 20mm hole punch, but had to drill pilot holes 1st
> Yeah I will be needing the disk space, as I'm growing my NAS, and the 6tb I have as a backup atm will need to increase to compensate
> 
> Cool, same rad as me, it just just squeezes in doesn't it!!


Yep you cant get it in if you dont get the cages out first and then put them in afterwards xD


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> Curious, any of you leave the case on the floor without any stand-offs? I have my rig on a small table next to my desk but it sure is wobbly. If it goes on the floor it goes on carpet, so ideally I need some casters... Maybe that will be my next project.


If you have a rad in the bottom I wouldn't set this case on _any_ surface without some sort of standoffs as the way Phanteks designed it, there's only enough airflow getting to the bottom of the case for a single 120mm / 140mm fan. It's a pretty huge design flaw imho considering just about everyone who purchases it is putting a rad in the bottom.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> [...] Doyll helped with the following, and I've measured and confirmed myself. I would LOVE for anyone to double-check themselves.
> 
> - The bottom gap is only 2.5mm with the case empty. Case W x D dimensions are 250mm x 600 mm. (42.5 sq cm)
> - The left side has basically no airflow.. The grills on filters are solid / totally cosmetic. Pop a filter out and you'll see what I mean.
> - The right side has a filtered intake, and on the back of it has thirty-six 3mm x 15mm slots (16.2 sq cm)
> - The opening to the bottom at the back is 147x25mm (36.75 sq cm)
> - The front has five 10x30mm foam filtered openings (15 sq cm)
> 
> 42.5 + 16.2 + 36.75 + 15 = 110.45 sq cm total airflow getting to the bottom filters.
> 
> Keep in mind also that the right side and front intakes are filtered, so the airflow going through them passes through 2 sets of filters before reaching your rad, which adds even more restriction.
> 
> A 120mm fan typically needs about 90 sq cm (the area of the circumference minus the motor housing, which varies slightly from one fan model to the next). Likewise, a 140mm fan typically needs about 120 sq cm


----------



## Hereisphilly

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gunilla95*
> 
> Yep you cant get it in if you dont get the cages out first and then put them in afterwards xD


Yeah I got all the measurements from jesse and came to conclusion that it would fit, so orderedcthe rads before the case came. When it arrived I tried jamming the rad in without taking the cages out, and for a few seconds thought I had bought a the wrong rad or something! Then realised I was an idiot and figured it out

I would love to know how phanteks intended for us to fit a front rad and pipe it up, without taking the cages out and not modd anything, as the way we have done it is the only way I can see it working


----------



## Gunilla95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hereisphilly*
> 
> Yeah I got all the measurements from jesse and came to conclusion that it would fit, so orderedcthe rads before the case came. When it arrived I tried jamming the rad in without taking the cages out, and for a few seconds thought I had bought a the wrong rad or something! Then realised I was an idiot and figured it out
> 
> I would love to know how phanteks intended for us to fit a front rad and pipe it up, without taking the cages out and not modd anything, as the way we have done it is the only way I can see it working


you coud also cut one of the rips out on the upper cage then you could fit fittings trough there. that was my plan B







but then you loose one harddrive.
i ripped out everything out of my old case yesterday. my orders havent arrived yet. got a 280 monsta and a 480 on the way in. gonna take a while though half europe. and now im just sitting here on my laptop watching pokemon for the nostalgi


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hereisphilly*
> 
> Ah cool, thanks for tip on sawing, might have to have a look into it! Did you do any hot bending or did you do all the turns with connectors?


I went for the "straight look" on this one. We design water / water water / power plants and idea was to have a bit of a showcase in the office, representing what we do. Tho must admit, I have no red coolant in any of my plants.

They say a pic worth 1000 words tho , from hanging here at OCN, I have found it to be 994.69 words on average











My not rigid section (pimp vibration isolation) . Can't see under upper HD cage.



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> Pics of the hard drive on the pump base:


And here I am thinking you layed it flat in the alternate location under the HD cages .... or vertically as it shows in the manual.


----------



## bond32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> If you have a rad in the bottom I wouldn't set this case on _any_ surface without some sort of standoffs as the way Phanteks designed it, there's only enough airflow getting to the bottom of the case for a single 120mm / 140mm fan. It's a pretty huge design flaw imho considering just about everyone who purchases it is putting a rad in the bottom.


Interesting... Thanks for the heads up. I have an ex480 in push pull on the bottom right now... Coupled with the filters those poor ap-15's don't get much airflow. In any case my loop is total overkill for cooling just the cpu and gpu, but perhaps I should do something about this.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> 
> And here I am thinking you layed it flat in the alternate location under the HD cages .... or vertically as it shows in the manual.


That was my first plan, to attach it under the 5.25 bays. But I would have to somehow put some vibration damping with that, or I could use the pump base which has lots of damping


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> Curious, any of you leave the case on the floor without any stand-offs? I have my rig on a small table next to my desk but it sure is wobbly. If it goes on the floor it goes on carpet, so ideally I need some casters... Maybe that will be my next project.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> Pics of the hard drive on the pump base:


I gotta find some bottom pics and figure out how to raise mine a bit too.... I gained 1.3C on my Delta T lifting it up 1" off desk.... Delta T thru Bottom Rad didn't change but overall Ambient to coolant temp did. Not as much as removing the top filter grille ..... that gained me 4.4C but that's an easier fix..... I know someone here already working on alternate grille for the top .... gonna see how that turns out before moving forward up there.

Bottom is less critical for me as my 280 bottom rad fans get to steal air from the front fan intake which I assume gets sucked down thru the floor..... If you have a 480 down there tho....that ain't gonna happen so the performance of ya rad is prolly impacted as much or more than I'm experiencing on the top where I have the 420.

Anyone have pics of the bottom ? My case with 2 liters of water is so darn heavy ....wish I still had that glass table, Id set it down and take pics thru the glass









Anything down there to attach case feet to ?


----------



## bond32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> I gotta find some bottom pics and figure out how to raise mine a bit too.... I gained 1.3C on my Delta T lifting it up 1" off desk.... Delta T thru Bottom Rad didn't change but overall Ambient to coolant temp did. Not as much as removing the top filter grille ..... that gained me 4.4C but that's an easier fix..... I know someone here already working on alternate grille for the top .... gonna see how that turns out before moving forward up there.
> 
> Bottom is less critical for me as my 280 bottom rad fans get to steal air from the front fan intake which I assume gets sucked down thru the floor..... If you have a 480 down there tho....that ain't gonna happen so the performance of ya rad is prolly impacted as much or more than I'm experiencing on the top where I have the 420.
> 
> Anyone have pics of the bottom ? My case with 2 liters of water is so darn heavy ....wish I still had that glass table, Id set it down and take pics thru the glass
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anything down there to attach case feet to ?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> 
> And here I am thinking you layed it flat in the alternate location under the HD cages .... or vertically as it shows in the manual.


The sound of the AP-15's changes dramatically when I raise the case up lol. I knew they were restricted, my loop is such overkill though it will likely be fine. Here's the bottom:


----------



## Hereisphilly

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gunilla95*
> 
> you coud also cut one of the rips out on the upper cage then you could fit fittings trough there. that was my plan B
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> but then you loose one harddrive.
> i ripped out everything out of my old case yesterday. my orders havent arrived yet. got a 280 monsta and a 480 on the way in. gonna take a while though half europe. and now im just sitting here on my laptop watching pokemon for the nostalgi


Nice, you have the same rads as me apart from I have a 420 xt45 up top. I wanted to use all the same case fans, so they all had the same sound signatures and so one type of fan wouldn't annoy me more than the others

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> I went for the "straight look" on this one. We design water / water water / power plants and idea was to have a bit of a showcase in the office, representing what we do. Tho must admit, I have no red coolant in any of my plants.
> 
> They say a pic worth 1000 words tho , from hanging here at OCN, I have found it to be 994.69 words on average
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My not rigid section (pimp vibration isolation) . Can't see under upper HD cage.
> 
> 
> And here I am thinking you layed it flat in the alternate location under the HD cages .... or vertically as it shows in the manual.


Ah yeah, I remember your build now, very nice! I'm guessing those are bitspower 90 degree fitting with threads both ends, and then some rigid acrylic adapters screwed into those?


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> Curious, any of you leave the case on the floor without any stand-offs? I have my rig on a small table next to my desk but it sure is wobbly. If it goes on the floor it goes on carpet, so ideally I need some casters... Maybe that will be my next project.


If you need anyt help with caster base give me a holler.









Jack,

Did you check temps with top grill off with case both without spacers and spaced up an inch?


----------



## Roxycon

@bond32, mines on the floor and the front of the case is over a cow skin carpet, cant really do it any other way since space is a bit limited and i dont want the rig under the desk cause it would be right against my subwoofer







when ill move into my own apartment ill be levitating the case on some cheap table and make some ventilation under it.

Dont got the nerves to place it on my desk either, 45 kilos is heavy

@JackNaylorPE, you could take off the bottom hdd rails from the cage you have installed if space is a little short there, thats what i did, but more for airflow and aesthetics


----------



## ERMugs

Forgotten about here.

My little build.

http://iloapp.mugen.org.uk/data/_gallery/public/2/138843326560034900_resized.jpg?width=953&height=1440


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> Here's the bottom:


Thanks yeah, I have done the same .... what I am trying to to is get an idea of how strong the braces that may be down there are and whether there are any predrilled and thd foot mounts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hereisphilly*
> 
> Ah yeah, I remember your build now, very nice! I'm guessing those are bitspower 90 degree fitting with threads both ends, and then some rigid acrylic adapters screwed into those?


In the lower pic, that's a threaded BP 90 screwed into a BP compression fitting.

Res Outlet, Pump inlet and rad inlet all have 90s...the pump outlet is straight compression.

On the 1st photo all the components have 90s and C47's..... the bends out "in air" have a 90 with a C47 on one side and a C68 (female thd version of C47)on the other.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Did you check temps with top grill off with case both without spacers and spaced up an inch?


yes.... it's back in that thread ...... I got the 4.4C with the top off..... did that cause my 420 was dropping temps 0.9C and and 280 on bottom was dropping 1.3C which made absolutely no sense. So then with the top still off I tested again with the bottom raised and tho the delta across the lower rad didn't changed..... overall delta T (ambient to water) dropped 1.3C id idn't record so I will havew to find that thread to make sure









Here ya go

http://www.overclock.net/t/1453784/to-high-delta/10#post_21465466

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roxycon*
> 
> @JackNaylorPE, you could take off the bottom hdd rails from the cage you have installed if space is a little short there, thats what i did, but more for airflow and aesthetics


I did have them off at one point ..... you gonna laugh is reason I put em back my wife has a habit of picking up things that are lying around and putting them "in a safe place". But then she can't remember where that is and I have to buy another. So if it fits, it went back in.


----------



## Roxycon

Haha, well its the thought that counts







moms like that too so i bought a plastic box to put where my old subwoofer was, wich contains all parts im not using


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roxycon*
> 
> Haha, well its the thought that counts
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> moms like that too so i bought a plastic box to put where my old subwoofer was, wich contains all parts im not using


My problem is I take stuff outta boxes.....I work on my workbench ..... which she likes to call "Dining Room table" and like if a holiday is coming up.... she needs to set table like a week ahead of time (That's not dust on the plate it's a condiment .... pepper maybe ?) so cleans off table 2 weeks a head of time....and I never see it again. Bought a Micro-torch and a can of Butane fuel.... Fuel gone...."put it away before kids got hold of it" (kids are 17, 21 and 24) .... bought 2 new ons today.

I also like to save all my boxes .... I still have all my component manufacturer's boxes..... most of which I fit inside case box (undocumented feature of Enthoo is it fits almost all ya boxes) but the newegg box that held the GFX cards which would have fit everything else .... gone .....the FCPU box that held 41200 worth of blocks and stuff ..... gone.....either one wuda fit rest of boxes.


----------



## Roxycon

Over protecting and too caring wife







i want one of those.. In a bit youll get synced up though, youll wrap the testing up 8 days before and that way you dont loose anything


----------



## bond32

Tossing around the idea of swapping my XSPC dual bay res for my tank res. Plan would be to mount the tank res at the bottom of the 5.25 bays in the bottom drive slot area. I have some foam so I would "decouple" the pump. What do you guys think? Right now, even though it's pretty quiet, the pump is rather annoying. I have it on the third setting and it's still audible over all else. I was thinking the tank reservoir might be quieter...

Downside would be the outlet would have to have a 90 degree fitting right at the pump outlet.


----------



## Roxycon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> Tossing around the idea of swapping my XSPC dual bay res for my tank res. Plan would be to mount the tank res at the bottom of the 5.25 bays in the bottom drive slot area. I have some foam so I would "decouple" the pump. What do you guys think? Right now, even though it's pretty quiet, the pump is rather annoying. I have it on the third setting and it's still audible over all else. I was thinking the tank reservoir might be quieter...
> 
> Downside would be the outlet would have to have a 90 degree fitting right at the pump outlet.


Have you tried something like this;



Definitely helped my noises, but it doesn't look that great but it gets covered by the blanks


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roxycon*
> 
> Over protecting and too caring wife
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i want one of those.. In a bit youll get synced up though, youll wrap the testing up 8 days before and that way you dont loose anything


i think she just does it to piss me off..... and that she's selling this stuff on e-bay. ..... If yu really want one, I can make you an offer.

Im still testing ..... new BIOS trashed all my OCs


----------



## shiv15

Well for anyone that cares, here are the finished photos. I need to add a tube inside the res to stop the splashing since im using the top as an input. Didn't think about that as using the top for my loop was a relatively last minute idea. I went with all rigid tubing for this and will add red dye once I fix the res issue. It was my first attempt with the rigid tubing and I think it came out pretty good. Not perfect, but I'll survive







.

1x 480 Alphacool Monsta Push/Pull w/ Corsair SP120
1x 420 Alphacool XT45 Push/Pull w/ Phanteks fans
1x 240 Alphacool ST30 Push w/ Corsair SP120 (Can fit pull if anyone is curious, but I used it as room to run my cables.)

I delidded my i5 and am running it naked on the EK block. I have nothing but good things to say about the quality of that setup.

As far as my cable management in the back, the phanteks fans are pretty frustrating to work with because of the cable length. Plus I used the extensions to go to my controller which caused more clutter than I'd like.

Eventually I plan on adding a 2nd 290 but unfortunately it wasn't in the already blown budget for this build. Let me know what you guys think!


----------



## Roxycon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> i think she just does it to piss me off..... and that she's selling this stuff on e-bay. ..... If yu really want one, I can make you an offer.
> 
> Im still testing ..... new BIOS trashed all my OCs


Haha, "lots of boxes, dont know what they contains, selling to highest bidder"







Cant be that bad though

Isnt it supposed to do that, flashing to a newer bios build and clearing the old settings wouldn't nag me at least. Maybe because i do what i do for a living


----------



## Roxycon

Finally someone who doesn't make a feature of their rigid tubing, i love it









makes me wanna do it for the visible parts of my build


----------



## shiv15

I wanted to be as minimalist as possible. I actually had another tubing routing in mind to hide even more, but it would have been much more complicated to run and I changed my mind. Some of those bends were a pita to get right. If anyone is interested, I bought the tube from USPlastics for $.33 per foot compared to the Primochill branded stuff. It only comes in clear though.


----------



## wesnerer

Here is how mine sits at the moment. Still trying to decide if I want to keep that 240mm rad in the back or just take it out. If I keep it i am going to make a new mount out of black acrylic and move it over towards the front of the case.


----------



## Terminus14

Ordering my fittings and tubing tomorrow. I've test fit everything and I'm almost certain I know how this whole thing is going to piece together. One question though. For 90° turns, I just need a 90° rotary fitting, right? Or is there something more that I'm missing?

This whole water cooling thing is pretty self explanatory and straight forward but fittings for some reason are daunting to me. I see 90° adapters and extenders and all these different things and it just gets a little overwhelming.


----------



## owcraftsman

It's best to draw yourself a diagram of your loop and address each connection that needs to be made one at at time. keep a running list of each connection as you progress through the entire loop. A 90 degree rotary will likely need a barb or compression fitting to attach to it in order to secure your tubing unless you buy a 90 degree rotary compression all in one. The advantage of buying them separate is the ability to change tubing type or size. The disadvantage is cost as one all in one typically cost less than two separate pieces. Pictures speak a thousand words always examine closely what you are committing to buy and while making your list too. Understand the difference between male and female connections and tubing size Inner dimension ID and Outer Dimension OD barbs are sized for the ID and compression fitting are sized by ID and OD. nearly all water blocks and radiators are threaded for G1/4 connection and are typically female meaning you would need a male fitting to mate the two together. Bottom line make a list and check it twice just like Santa

Happy New Year all


----------



## Maverickbp

Speaking of I'm tossing around ideas in my head in planning the cleanest loop i can with the pieces I'm using. All my WC gear just showed up but due to the mining craze my 2 290's are delayed so I have time to plan. Any opinions on how you'd set up this loop are welcome. My Photon while gorgeous is making planning difficult since it has no replaceable top options like the EK reservoir's do. I've seen some people toss the idea around of using the top as an inlet but many have also said it's not a good idea. Here are my parts:

XT420 up top in push
UT280 in the bottom in push
XSPC Photon 270mm reservoir w/ some 16lb weight limit velcro strips
XSPC Raystorm cpu block
2x XSPC 290 waterblocks w/ backplates and 3 slot sli flow bridge
Swiftech MCP35x pump (which i'd like to mount on the designed mount but am open to opinions)
10ft Primoflex Advanced LRT clear tubing

All fittings/tubing are 1/2ID x 3/4OD. 10x compression fittings, 4x 45 degree rotary fittings, 2x rotary male to male fittings, 1x 90 degree rotary to 1/2 ID barb fitting, 1 Phobya valve with 2 G1/4 connection, and a T connector.

As you can see I decided to copy the other member's clever idea with the T connector and shut off drain valve off of the pump. It's late so I'm too tired to find his picture but he did post one. The pump comes with two barbs. I figured since the pump is hidden I'll go ahead and use one barb coming out the top. The other connecter will be a compression M2M>T connector>90 degree rotary w/ barb. The remaining end on the T connector will be M2M>Phobya valve>other barb from the pump.

Btw all but one 3 1/2 HD slot is filled and only 1 5 1/4 bay being used.


----------



## Maverickbp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> If you need anyt help with caster base give me a holler.


Are you taking orders for your caster base?


----------



## 47 Knucklehead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wesnerer*
> 
> Here is how mine sits at the moment. Still trying to decide if I want to keep that 240mm rad in the back or just take it out. If I keep it i am going to make a new mount out of black acrylic and move it over towards the front of the case.


That's actually the way I'm leaning with my rig at the moment ... radiator wise.

480 up top in "push/pull'.
360 down below in "push/pull".
240 on the side in "push".

Yeah it'll be overkill, but why not.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Maverickbp*
> 
> Are you taking orders for your caster base?


I was referring to help make one.










But I have an extra. Made it for a second EP but case won't fit in the space.. so have to get something smaller.


----------



## Hereisphilly

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Maverickbp*
> 
> Speaking of I'm tossing around ideas in my head in planning the cleanest loop i can with the pieces I'm using. All my WC gear just showed up but due to the mining craze my 2 290's are delayed so I have time to plan. Any opinions on how you'd set up this loop are welcome. My Photon while gorgeous is making planning difficult since it has no replaceable top options like the EK reservoir's do. I've seen some people toss the idea around of using the top as an inlet but many have also said it's not a good idea. Here are my parts:
> 
> XT420 up top in push
> UT280 in the bottom in push
> XSPC Photon 270mm reservoir w/ some 16lb weight limit velcro strips
> XSPC Raystorm cpu block
> 2x XSPC 290 waterblocks w/ backplates and 3 slot sli flow bridge
> Swiftech MCP35x pump (which i'd like to mount on the designed mount but am open to opinions)
> 10ft Primoflex Advanced LRT clear tubing
> 
> All fittings/tubing are 1/2ID x 3/4OD. 10x compression fittings, 4x 45 degree rotary fittings, 2x rotary male to male fittings, 1x 90 degree rotary to 1/2 ID barb fitting, 1 Phobya valve with 2 G1/4 connection, and a T connector.
> 
> As you can see I decided to copy the other member's clever idea with the T connector and shut off drain valve off of the pump. It's late so I'm too tired to find his picture but he did post one. The pump comes with two barbs. I figured since the pump is hidden I'll go ahead and use one barb coming out the top. The other connecter will be a compression M2M>T connector>90 degree rotary w/ barb. The remaining end on the T connector will be M2M>Phobya valve>other barb from the pump.
> 
> Btw all but one 3 1/2 HD slot is filled and only 1 5 1/4 bay being used.


I think you might be referring to me!







Here is that picture if you need it


I'm guessing you are connecting the tube res straight to the pump?
If you haven't got a connection in the top of the res you can always fill from there. Its what I did with a squirty bottle that had an angled nozzle. May take a bit longer to fully bleed but you don't need to mess around with any other fill ports


----------



## Maverickbp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hereisphilly*
> 
> I think you might be referring to me!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is that picture if you need it
> 
> 
> I'm guessing you are connecting the tube res straight to the pump?
> If you haven't got a connection in the top of the res you can always fill from there. Its what I did with a squirty bottle that had an angled nozzle. May take a bit longer to fully bleed but you don't need to mess around with any other fill ports


Yup that's the one. Quite an expensive bleeding setup I might add lol. Everything I've read says you always go reservoir>pump so yes that will be the first section of my loop.

The Photon has a fill port on top so I may use that when filling. Unless someone can convince me using that top as an inlet in my loop isn't a bad idea which will open up possibilities for a much cleaner loop...but I doubt it.


----------



## Hereisphilly

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Maverickbp*
> 
> Yup that's the one. Quite an expensive bleeding setup I might add lol. Everything I've read says you always go reservoir>pump so yes that will be the first section of my loop.
> 
> The Photon has a fill port on top so I may use that when filling. Unless someone can convince me using that top as an inlet in my loop isn't a bad idea which will open up possibilities for a much cleaner loop...but I doubt it.


Yeah it was a bit pricey, maybe £20 or so, but its neat and has saved me loads of time and risk of getting the inside wet when trying to whip SME hose off and drain

I'm a noob to all of this water cooling so I'm not an expert by any means, but I've ran the the inlet and outlet from the base of my res without any problems since I got the primo, and I've drained and filled 3 times.

It may take longer to fully bleed than if I had the inlet at the very top, but it only took about 5 mins to have the vast majority of the water in, and then another 30-60 mins of running the pump at various speeds, flicking it off and on, and rocking the case a little bit occasionally to get the air out. Then I whacked the PC on and just used it for a few hours, temps haven't changed at all, just occasionally You hear a gurgle and some air bubbles blow into the res and rise to the top.
After about 8 hours running, and topping it up with about 50ml of water, it seems to be all fine and quiet


----------



## Maverickbp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hereisphilly*
> 
> Yeah it was a bit pricey, maybe £20 or so, but its neat and has saved me loads of time and risk of getting the inside wet when trying to whip SME hose off and drain
> 
> I'm a noob to all of this water cooling so I'm not an expert by any means, but I've ran the the inlet and outlet from the base of my res without any problems since I got the primo, and I've drained and filled 3 times.
> 
> It may take longer to fully bleed than if I had the inlet at the very top, but it only took about 5 mins to have the vast majority of the water in, and then another 30-60 mins of running the pump at various speeds, flicking it off and on, and rocking the case a little bit occasionally to get the air out. Then I whacked the PC on and just used it for a few hours, temps haven't changed at all, just occasionally You hear a gurgle and some air bubbles blow into the res and rise to the top.
> After about 8 hours running, and topping it up with about 50ml of water, it seems to be all fine and quiet


Ya I will be running the inlet and outlet to the base of the Photon. It would just be nice if I could run the inlet through the top of the Photon. That would allow me to run a tube straight from either the top radiator or from the cpu block straight thru the top of the Photon instead of a longer run to the bottom.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Maverickbp*
> 
> Ya I will be running the inlet and outlet to the base of the Photon. It would just be nice if I could run the inlet through the top of the Photon. That would allow me to run a tube straight from either the top radiator or from the cpu block straight thru the top of the Photon instead of a longer run to the bottom.


The fill port on the photon has a baffle with 4 oval-shaped holes that the fluid must pass through. This makes filling using the port a bit slow & tricky because you have to tilt the res or the entire case quite a bit to get the fluid to want to go down one or more of the holes while still allowing air to escape from another. Otherwise all of the holes get blocked by water which means that air can't escape, and thus almost no water goes in and you likely wind up spilling water all over the place.

You could buy an M20 to G1/4 fill port adapter that would allow you to connect an inlet hose to the top of an XSPC Photon res. The 4 holes together are larger combined than a G 1/4 opening, and if used as an inlet there is no need for air to be able to escape so it shouldn't cause any issue with respect to flow.

However, if you use the fill port as an inlet you won't be able to bleed air from your res as air won't collect at the top of the res but instead in the inlet hose connected to the fill port or some other high point(s) in your loop. It would likely make filling and bleeding your loop a very challenging endeavor. I would recommend against even trying it. That's really the only benefit to having a tube res at all.


----------



## solowarrior

Finally finished my first water cooling loop. Not the best looking one but not bad for my first try. Had a few leaks but it's now running leak free (cross my fingers). I've learned so much from reading everyones post throughout the past months. Still have to deal with getting all those fans (15) running, but looking forward to the challenge. I thank all of you!!!!


----------



## 47 Knucklehead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *solowarrior*
> 
> 
> 
> Finally finished my first water cooling loop. Not the best looking one but not bad for my first try. Had a few leaks but it's now running leak free (cross my fingers). I've learned so much from reading everyones post throughout the past months. Still have to deal with getting all those fans (15) running, but looking forward to the challenge. I thank all of you!!!!


Nothing wrong with that build. It looks very nice. Very clean. And honestly, it took guts to go with Acrylic for your first water cooled build.


----------



## solowarrior

Thanks 47! It wasn't easy, I went though a lot of tubing.


----------



## Maverickbp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> The fill port on the photon has a baffle with 4 oval-shaped holes that the fluid must pass through. This makes filling using the port a bit slow & tricky because you have to tilt the res or the entire case quite a bit to get the fluid to want to go down one or more of the holes while still allowing air to escape from another. Otherwise all of the holes get blocked by water which means that air can't escape, and thus almost no water goes in and you likely wind up spilling water all over the place.
> 
> You could buy an M20 to G1/4 fill port adapter that would allow you to connect an inlet hose to the top of an XSPC Photon res. The 4 holes together are larger combined than a G 1/4 opening, and if used as an inlet there is no need for air to be able to escape so it shouldn't cause any issue with respect to flow.
> 
> However, if you use the fill port as an inlet you won't be able to bleed air from your res as air won't collect at the top of the res but instead in the inlet hose connected to the fill port or some other high point(s) in your loop. It would likely make filling and bleeding your loop a very challenging endeavor. I would recommend against even trying it. That's really the only benefit to having a tube res at all.


Ya I knew using the top as an inlet wouldn't be the wise so haven't really thought of trying. Now you remind me about the fillport adapter lol. Maybe I don't understand what you mean about the Photon having 4 holes on it's fill port as the top of the reservoir just has one opening up top once you remove the plug.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roxycon*
> 
> Haha, "lots of boxes, dont know what they contains, selling to highest bidder"
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cant be that bad though
> 
> Isnt it supposed to do that, flashing to a newer bios build and clearing the old settings wouldn't nag me at least. Maybe because i do what i do for a living


Yes, I did expect to have to re-enter all the settings .... I did not expect a significant temp rise tho I could live with that

I also didn't expect up to a 3 fold increase in voltage being supplied by the adaptive.

At 45 Multiplier / 45 cache ratio my VID needed an increase from 1.275 to1.325 ......max Vcore under Rog Bench went from 1.328 to 1.440

At 46 Multiplier / 46 cache ratio, Im no longer stable. To do 46/43, my VID needed an increase from 1.37 to 1.38 and max Vcore under RoG bench went from 1.42 to 1.48

Quote:


> Haha, "lots of boxes, dont know what they contains, selling to highest bidder" tongue.gif Cant be that bad though


Oh the boxes are empty ... I was referring to all the tools and supplies.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Terminus14*
> 
> Ordering my fittings and tubing tomorrow. I've test fit everything and I'm almost certain I know how this whole thing is going to piece together. One question though. For 90° turns, I just need a 90° rotary fitting, right? Or is there something more that I'm missing?
> 
> This whole water cooling thing is pretty self explanatory and straight forward but fittings for some reason are daunting to me. I see 90° adapters and extenders and all these different things and it just gets a little overwhelming.


What kind of tubing ..... to do a 90 at a component w/ rigid tubing, ya need a 90 bend and a C47..... to do one out "in space" (tube to tube) ya need a 90, C47 and C68

==========================================================================
COMPONENT CONNECTIONS - ONE IN / ONE OUT - ($11.50 EACH PAIR):

1 x Bitspower SLI / Crossfire Multi-Link Adapter Pair - Matte Black (BP-MBWP-C47) - $11.50
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/10743/ex-tub-668/Bitspower_SLI_Crossfire_Multi-Link_Adapter_Pair_-_Matte_Black_BP-MBWP-C47.html

90 DEGREE BEND: ($29.28 EACH) Tube to Tube

1 x Bitspower SLI / Crossfire Multi-Link Adapter Pair - Matte Black (BP-MBWP-C47) - $11.50
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/10743/ex-tub-668/Bitspower_SLI_Crossfire_Multi-Link_Adapter_Pair_-_Matte_Black_BP-MBWP-C47.html

1 x Bitspower G1/4" Matte Black Rotary 90° G1/4" Adapter (BP-MB90R) - $11.99
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/10376/ex-tub-629/Bitspower_G14_Matte_Black_Rotary_90_G14_Adapter_BP-MB90R.html?tl=c101s1306b145

1 x Bitspower G1/4 Matte Black Multi-Link Adapter (BP-MBWP-C68) - $5.49
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/12748/ex-tub-818/Bitspower_G14_Matte_Black_Multi-Link_Adapter_BP-MBWP-C68.html#blank

45 DEGREE BEND: ($29.28 EACH) Tube to Tube

1 x Bitspower SLI / Crossfire Multi-Link Adapter Pair - Matte Black (BP-MBWP-C47) - $5.75
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/10743/ex-tub-668/Bitspower_SLI_Crossfire_Multi-Link_Adapter_Pair_-_Matte_Black_BP-MBWP-C47.html

1 x Bitspower G1/4" Matte Black Rotary 45 Degree G1/4" Adapter (BP-MB45R)- $11.99
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/10375/ex-tub-628/Bitspower_G14_Matte_Black_Rotary_45_Degree_G14_Adapter_BP-MB45R.html?tl=c101s1305b145

1 x Bitspower G1/4 Matte Black Multi-Link Adapter (BP-MBWP-C68) - $5.49
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/12748/ex-tub-818/Bitspower_G14_Matte_Black_Multi-Link_Adapter_BP-MBWP-C68.html#blank

BULKHEAD FITTING: ($40.78 EACH)

0.5 x Bitspower SLI / Crossfire Multi-Link Adapter Pair - Matte Black (BP-MBWP-C47) - $11.50
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/10743/ex-tub-668/Bitspower_SLI_Crossfire_Multi-Link_Adapter_Pair_-_Matte_Black_BP-MBWP-C47.html

1 x Bitspower G1/4" Female / Female Pass-Through Fitting - (Fillport) - Matte Black (BP-MBWP-C04) - $9.45
Http://www.frozencpu.com/products/10364/ex-tub-608/Bitspower_G14_Female_Female_Pass-Through_Fitting_-_Fillport_-_Matte_Black_BP-MBWP-C04.html?tl=c101s460b145

Bitspower G1/4" Low Profile Matte Black Stop Plug w/ O-Ring (BP-MBWP-C09) - $4.99
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/10362/ex-tub-610/Bitspower_G14_Low_Profile_Matte_Black_Stop_Plug_w_O-Ring_BP-MBWP-C09.html?tl=c101s743b145

TEE FITTING: ($30.74 EACH)

1.5 x Bitspower SLI / Crossfire Multi-Link Adapter Pair - Matte Black (BP-MBWP-C47) - $16.75
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/10743/ex-tub-668/Bitspower_SLI_Crossfire_Multi-Link_Adapter_Pair_-_Matte_Black_BP-MBWP-C47.html

Bitspower G1/4" Matte Black T Adapter (BP-MBTMB)- $13.99
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/10382/ex-tub-622/Bitspower_G14_Matte_Black_T_Adapter_BP-MBTMB.html?tl=c499s745b145

O-RINGS ($2.99)

Bitspower Deep Bold Red O-Ring - (10 Pack) (BP-WTP-010-DRD) - $2.99
Http://www.frozencpu.com/products/12500/ex-tub-787/Bitspower_Deep_Bold_Red_O-Ring_-_10_Pack_BP-WTP-010-DRD.html?tl=c409s1052b145

QUICK-DISCONNECT ($54.95)

1 x Bitspower SLI / Crossfire Multi-Link Adapter Pair - Matte Black (BP-MBWP-C47) - $11:50
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/10743/ex-tub-668/Bitspower_SLI_Crossfire_Multi-Link_Adapter_Pair_-_Matte_Black_BP-MBWP-C47.html

Bitspower Matte Black Quick-Disconnected Female w/ G1/4 Thread (BP-MBQDFG14) - $23.50
Http://www.frozencpu.com/products/17965/ex-tub-1635/Bitspower_Matte_Black_Quick-Disconnected_Female_w_G14_Thread_BP-MBQDFG14.html?tl=c405s1954b145#blank

Bitspower Matte Black Quick-Disconnected Male w/ Inner G1/4 (BP-MBQDMIG14) - $19.95
Http://www.frozencpu.com/products/17966/ex-tub-1636/Bitspower_Matte_Black_Quick-Disconnected_Male_w_Inner_G14_BP-MBQDMIG14.html?tl=c405s1954b145
====================================================================

For flex tube connections, a 90 and a compression fitting will do

There's a parts list and flow iagram w/ all the fittings marked in Post 1000 tho it has mistakes I haven't gotten around to correcting yet.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Maverickbp*
> 
> Speaking of I'm tossing around ideas in my head in planning the cleanest loop i can with the pieces I'm using. All my WC gear just showed up but due to the mining craze my 2 290's are delayed so I have time to plan. Any opinions on how you'd set up this loop are welcome. My Photon while gorgeous is making planning difficult since it has no replaceable top options like the EK reservoir's do. I've seen some people toss the idea around of using the top as an inlet but many have also said it's not a good idea. Here are my parts:
> 
> XT420 up top in push
> UT280 in the bottom in push
> XSPC Photon 270mm reservoir w/ some 16lb weight limit velcro strips
> XSPC Raystorm cpu block
> 2x XSPC 290 waterblocks w/ backplates and 3 slot sli flow bridge
> Swiftech MCP35x pump (which i'd like to mount on the designed mount but am open to opinions)
> 10ft Primoflex Advanced LRT clear tubing
> 
> All fittings/tubing are 1/2ID x 3/4OD. 10x compression fittings, 4x 45 degree rotary fittings, 2x rotary male to male fittings, 1x 90 degree rotary to 1/2 ID barb fitting, 1 Phobya valve with 2 G1/4 connection, and a T connector.
> 
> As you can see I decided to copy the other member's clever idea with the T connector and shut off drain valve off of the pump. It's late so I'm too tired to find his picture but he did post one. The pump comes with two barbs. I figured since the pump is hidden I'll go ahead and use one barb coming out the top. The other connecter will be a compression M2M>T connector>90 degree rotary w/ barb. The remaining end on the T connector will be M2M>Phobya valve>other barb from the pump.
> 
> Btw all but one 3 1/2 HD slot is filled and only 1 5 1/4 bay being used.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Terminus14*
> 
> Ordering my fittings and tubing tomorrow. I've test fit everything and I'm almost certain I know how this whole thing is going to piece together. One question though. For 90° turns, I just need a 90° rotary fitting, right? Or is there something more that I'm missing?
> 
> This whole water cooling thing is pretty self explanatory and straight forward but fittings for some reason are daunting to me. I see 90° adapters and extenders and all these different things and it just gets a little overwhelming.


Your loop will likely be similar to mine, main differences being

-EK Supremacy versus Raystorm
-290's versus 780s
-Bridge versus parallel pipes
-Photon versus EK Res
-Swiftech 35x2 versus 35x
-I have MoBo Block

That being said..... I'd suggest the following"

1. Take out the lower HD cage and move the upper one forward .... up against the intake fans. Put Pump on Enthoo Mounting plate on bottom slide rail.

2. With the UT280 mounting with fittings towards the front.... go from pump to the "back" top rad port.

3. Come outta the front Rad port and go to ya lower right port on the GFX bridge

4. Come outta bridge and go up to front bottom XT45 port up top. XT45 mounted with fittings towards rear of case and slid forward so that top ports can be used as fill / bleed ports.

5. From back bottom port of XT45 to to Raystorm inlet which should be mounted with holes vertically and inlet on bottom.

6. From Raystorm to Photon and from Photon to pump inlet..

I'm told filling a Photon from the top is a very challenging endeavor.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Maverickbp*
> 
> Ya I knew using the top as an inlet wouldn't be the wise so haven't really thought of trying. Now you remind me about the fillport adapter lol. *Maybe I don't understand what you mean about the Photon having 4 holes on it's fill port as the top of the reservoir just has one opening up top once you remove the plug*.




Those 4 holes makes it pretty tricky to fill. You have to tilt it.


----------



## Maverickbp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> 
> 
> Those 4 holes makes it pretty tricky to fill. You have to tilt it.


Oh I getcha. Ya I didn't take the plug out when I looked it over otherwise I would've understood better. Now I can see why you mentioned it being a long tedious task.


----------



## Maverickbp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> Your loop will likely be similar to mine, main differences being
> 
> -EK Supremacy versus Raystorm
> -290's versus 780s
> -Bridge versus parallel pipes
> -Photon versus EK Res
> -Swiftech 35x2 versus 35x
> -I have MoBo Block
> 
> That being said..... I'd suggest the following"
> 
> 1. Take out the lower HD cage and move the upper one forward .... up against the intake fans. Put Pump on Enthoo Mounting plate on bottom slide rail.
> 
> 2. With the UT280 mounting with fittings towards the front.... go from pump to the "back" top rad port.
> 
> 3. Come outta the front Rad port and go to ya lower right port on the GFX bridge
> 
> 4. Come outta bridge and go up to front bottom XT45 port up top. XT45 mounted with fittings towards rear of case and slid forward so that top ports can be used as fill / bleed ports.
> 
> 5. From back bottom port of XT45 to to Raystorm inlet which should be mounted with holes vertically and inlet on bottom.
> 
> 6. From Raystorm to Photon and from Photon to pump inlet..
> 
> I'm told filling a Photon from the top is a very challenging endeavor.


Only issue is removing the bottom cage isn't possible for me as I mentioned earlier all slots are filled except the very last one...for now. When I say that I mean 5/6 slots are filled.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Maverickbp*
> 
> Oh I getcha. Ya I didn't take the plug out when I looked it over otherwise I would've understood better. Now I can see why you mentioned it being a long tedious task.


Once you see what's going on it's not really all that hard or time consuming. If you tilt the case enough and/or use a fill bottle like this you can fill a 270 res in a couple minutes. But if you don't realize the need to allow air to escape to make room for the water coming in and you just go to pouring water in the top, even pouring slowly, you are likely going to spill water everywhere.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Maverickbp*
> 
> Only issue is removing the bottom cage isn't possible for me as I mentioned earlier all slots are filled except the very last one...for now. When I say that I mean 5/6 slots are filled.


Easy to get lost who's got what in where ...... I''m old so have an excuse







..... .... I was confusing peeps w/ my questions so I put it all in my siggie

Are you also the one who has all the 5.25 bays filled ? So ya can't put 2 HD's in 2 bays up there.

I have almost 30 years of business records for my engineering firm (AutoCAD drawings, site photos) , all my family photos, kids I-tunes backups and ever other piece of electronic info on a single 2 TB HD....backed up to a 2nd internal 2TB and alternating off site ones. So I have trouble envisioning that many drives


----------



## Gunilla95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> Easy to get lost who's got what in where ...... I''m old so have an excuse
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ..... .... I was confusing peeps w/ my questions so I put it all in my siggie
> 
> Are you also the one who has all the 5.25 bays filled ? So ya can't put 2 HD's in 2 bays up there.
> 
> I have almost 30 years of business records for my engineering firm (AutoCAD drawings, site photos) , all my family photos, kids I-tunes backups and ever other piece of electronic info on a single 2 TB HD....backed up to a 2nd internal 2TB and alternating off site ones. So I have trouble envisioning that many drives


its easy havin that many drives when you computer is gamin /server/nas at the same time








I got windows installations with PXE on my one + movie storage like 6 Tb for tv and media pc and then ofcource gaming so drives are priority for me atleast..


----------



## Maverickbp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> Easy to get lost who's got what in where ...... I''m old so have an excuse
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ..... .... I was confusing peeps w/ my questions so I put it all in my siggie
> 
> Are you also the one who has all the 5.25 bays filled ? So ya can't put 2 HD's in 2 bays up there.
> 
> I have almost 30 years of business records for my engineering firm (AutoCAD drawings, site photos) , all my family photos, kids I-tunes backups and ever other piece of electronic info on a single 2 TB HD....backed up to a 2nd internal 2TB and alternating off site ones. So I have trouble envisioning that many drives


It's ok. You'd be surprised to know how many tb's I have when u add up all my internal/external storage.

No I only have 1 5 1/4 bay filled and have contemplated getting a 2 5 1/4 bay to 3 3 1/2 bay adapter. However why would I need to remove the entire bottom cage? Once moved forward there should be space to route the tube from the pump to the bottom rad.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> [...] I have almost 30 years of business records for my engineering firm (AutoCAD drawings, site photos) , all my family photos, kids I-tunes backups and ever other piece of electronic info on a single 2 TB HD....backed up to a 2nd internal 2TB and alternating off site ones. So I have trouble envisioning that many drives


lololol









I have three NAS with four 3TB WD Reds in each (total 36 TB) all filled to ~85% each. I can't put anything else on them or else their scheduled defrag freezes / never completes. All are RAID 0 so there's no backup of anything. The idea when I started was to have a 0 + 1 array, but I keep needing the space faster than I can buy more HDDs / NAS units. When I'm done building this Enthoo Primo I'll be adding another NAS - perhaps a bigger one this time.

My Cosmos 2 is the family room HTPC / Gaming rig, and I have 4TB WD blacks in 10 of it's 11 HDD bays (40TB) that all but the newest HDD I just added a couple weeks ago are at or slightly above 80% capacity. Even the new drive has over 1TB on it already. The 11th bay has the SSD with the OS on it.

I currently have two of the six 4TB WD blacks I'll be putting in the Enthoo Primo. I'm just waiting now for the price to drop again and I'll snag up the other four drives I need, and after that I'll be looking for the price to drop on the 1TB samsung EVOs to go with the one I already have fill up the rest of the Enthoo Primo's SSD slots. By that time I'll probably already be started working on my next build.

That's why losing any of the available HDD bays in any computer build I have is never an option.


----------



## doyll

I've found storage drives rarely need defragged.. and defragging is probably the hardest work our HDDs every do.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> I've found storage drives rarely need defragged.. and defragging is probably the hardest work our HDDs every do.


I've found that a regular defrag takes only a few minutes to do as long as there's ~15% of available free space and they haven't become very fragmented (< 2%). Trying to playback very high bitrate HD videos (most of mine are +20 Mbps and over 20GB each) from a badly fragmented drive would be a LOT harder on a drive than any defrag would be. You literally can't play back a video without stutter if the drive is badly fragmented.

Knock on wood, but I have never ever had a HDD fail on me. Not once yet in ~30 years now of computing have I ever had a HDD fail on me before I replaced it with a newer / bigger drive, and I've been through hundreds of HDDs. I'm dating myself here, but my first computer was a TRS-80 with a 5mb HDD that cost a fortune.

I've had very few hardware failures at all. I killed a pentium D once overclocking it (it literally blew up), and I've had one stick of ram go bad once.

I attribute my relatively good luck so far to always making sure my HDDs stay defragged at all times, all my hardware is actively cooled, and everything stays plugged into an AVR UPS for clean stable power.

Edit:
Happy New Year!


----------



## Maverickbp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> lololol
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have three NAS with four 3TB WD Reds in each (total 36 TB) all filled to ~85% each. I can't put anything else on them or else their scheduled defrag freezes / never completes. All are RAID 0 so there's no backup of anything. The idea when I started was to have a 0 + 1 array, but I keep needing the space faster than I can buy more HDDs / NAS units. When I'm done building this Enthoo Primo I'll be adding another NAS - perhaps a bigger one this time.
> 
> My Cosmos 2 is the family room HTPC / Gaming rig, and I have 4TB WD blacks in 10 of it's 11 HDD bays (40TB) that all but the newest HDD I just added a couple weeks ago are at or slightly above 80% capacity. Even the new drive has over 1TB on it already. The 11th bay has the SSD with the OS on it.
> 
> I currently have two of the six 4TB WD blacks I'll be putting in the Enthoo Primo. I'm just waiting now for the price to drop again and I'll snag up the other four drives I need, and after that I'll be looking for the price to drop on the 1TB samsung EVOs to go with the one I already have fill up the rest of the Enthoo Primo's SSD slots. By that time I'll probably already be started working on my next build.
> 
> That's why losing any of the available HDD bays in any computer build I have is never an option.


Sounds a lot like my setup except I just have a bunch of 4tb internal drives to go with a bunch of 3/4tb external drives. One thing I also did for more peace of mind since nothing is in a raid, is sign up for an unlimited storage Bitcasa account back when it was $10 a month. Shortly after I uploaded everything(and by shortly I mean several weeks later as they had good upload speeds but it's a lot of data) they changed their pricing scheme to an ungodly rate. Thankfully I'm grandfathered in as their service speed/services are great.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> I've found that a regular defrag takes only a few minutes to do as long as there's ~15% of available free space and they haven't become very fragmented (< 2%). Trying to playback very high bitrate HD videos (most of mine are +20 Mbps and over 20GB each) from a badly fragmented drive would be a LOT harder on a drive than any defrag would be. You literally can't play back a video without stutter if the drive is badly fragmented.
> 
> Knock on wood, but I have never ever had a HDD fail on me. Not once yet in ~30 years now of computing have I ever had a HDD fail on me before I replaced it with a newer / bigger drive, and I've been through hundreds of HDDs. I'm dating myself here, but my first computer was a TRS-80 with a 5mb HDD that cost a fortune.
> 
> I've had very few hardware failures at all. I killed a pentium D once overclocking it (it literally blew up), and I've had one stick of ram go bad once.
> 
> I attribute my relatively good luck so far to always making sure my HDDs stay defragged at all times, all my hardware is actively cooled, and everything stays plugged into an AVR UPS for clean stable power.
> 
> Edit:
> Happy New Year!


Happy New Year everyone!








Storage drives are basically read only so there is almost no fragging.. so no defragging needed.

My money on your AVR UPS being the biggest reason for so few problems..







and of course luck.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Happy New Year everyone!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Storage drives are basically read only so there is almost no fragging.. so no defragging needed.
> 
> My money on your AVR UPS being the biggest reason for so few problems..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and of course luck.


I guess it depends on what you use them for. My NAS are not used as 'storage drives'. They are media servers, constantly having older content moved/removed and new content added automatically. They must be regularly defragged or you can't even play anything from them without hiccups. A nightly defrag takes ~15 min or so, and they play everything without issues.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> I guess it depends on what you use them for. My NAS are not used as 'storage drives'. They are media servers, constantly having older content moved/removed and new content added automatically. They must be regularly defragged or you can't even play anything from them without hiccups. A nightly defrag takes ~15 min or so, and they play everything without issues.


Ahh yes. Adding / removing makes a difference. Especially adding downloads as the dl.


----------



## EnderUK

So got this case yesterday and ran into a couple of minor but annoying issues.
1st was that the pump bracket does not allow the alphacool d5 to mount without over hanging which makes screwing in the bracket fiddly, the width of the alphacook top means you can shift the bracket into the second position without some modding.

Next you have nice hole in the case to run from the res into the top of the pump. However if you use the res mounting bar then its just messy as you have to run the tube behind the res mounting some how.

Nice case very well built. Ive placed the 3 140mm fans as ceiling outtakes. Waiting on the g-charger 4.120mm to come going to have it on the floor in push pull. Don't know if I can get the 2.120mm in at the front yet.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Maverickbp*
> 
> It's ok. You'd be surprised to know how many tb's I have when u add up all my internal/external storage.
> 
> No I only have 1 5 1/4 bay filled and have contemplated getting a 2 5 1/4 bay to 3 3 1/2 bay adapter. However why would I need to remove the entire bottom cage? Once moved forward there should be space to route the tube from the pump to the bottom rad.


Depends on what ya install there......here's mine





Thatz the upper HD cage ya can see in the pic

But the original scenario under discussion was putting the pump mounting plate in the alternate location which even with the the pump unmounted alone requires the removal of the cages.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gunilla95*
> 
> its easy havin that many drives when you computer is gamin /server/nas at the same time
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I got windows installations with PXE on my one + movie storage like 6 Tb for tv and media pc and then ofcource gaming so drives are priority for me atleast..


Mine is SOHO server .... serves as an NAS / documents archive for the office, backup depository for the Home.....has image file backups of all the PCs boot drives, as well as data backups for all and an iTunes server for everyone. But .... big difference....no movies. Well some, we get / record a movie, watch it, delete it.

I used to have a separate NAS (Infrant NV+) and loved it but really find RAID more trouble than it's worth.


----------



## Hereisphilly

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EnderUK*
> 
> So got this case yesterday and ran into a couple of minor but annoying issues.
> 1st was that the pump bracket does not allow the alphacool d5 to mount without over hanging which makes screwing in the bracket fiddly, the width of the alphacook top means you can shift the bracket into the second position without some modding.
> 
> Next you have nice hole in the case to run from the res into the top of the pump. However if you use the res mounting bar then its just messy as you have to run the tube behind the res mounting some how.
> 
> Nice case very well built. Ive placed the 3 140mm fans as ceiling outtakes. Waiting on the g-charger 4.120mm to come going to have it on the floor in push pull. Don't know if I can get the 2.120mm in at the front yet.


Yeah the bracket doesn't fit an Alphacool d5 with the custom top, unless you take the metal baseplate off the pump top and screw the bracket directly into the acetal top. That's how I got mine to work anyway, and it fits like a dream now.

You really have to remove res bracket abd mouint the tube res brackets directly on the main case backplane. One you do that the hole for tubing lines up perfectly with the pump below. With my pump it was like it was made for it

As long as your front rad is less than 45mm thick, it will fit with the hard drive cages in place. Tubing however is another matter for which you have to get creative


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> lololol
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have three NAS with four 3TB WD Reds in each (total 36 TB) all filled to ~85% each. I can't put anything else on them or else their scheduled defrag freezes / never completes. All are RAID 0 so there's no backup of anything. The idea when I started was to have a 0 + 1 array, but I keep needing the space faster than I can buy more HDDs / NAS units. When I'm done building this Enthoo Primo I'll be adding another NAS - perhaps a bigger one this time.


Scary....RAID 0 and no backups ... Yikes. One drive goes south and all gone forever. Reasons I liked the Infrant NAS .... Hot Swap, small enclosure, easy permissions, auto rebuild .... reasons I didn't like were if controller goes south, as it did to me, you SoL. Originally set up the SSD's in RAID 0 and HD's in RAID 1, in the Enthoo but left me in same boat.

RAID 0 did squat for performance, rendered all Samsung Utilities useless ..... Performance actually increased after breaking the array. Samsung had been telling me that for a week but I didn't believe them. Dumped the RAID 1 for a software mirror backup. Now easier..... if Enthoo dies, I can access any drive from one of my 3 BlacX's
Quote:


> My Cosmos 2 is the family room HTPC / Gaming rig, and I have 4TB WD blacks in 10 of it's 11 HDD bays (40TB) that all but the newest HDD I just added a couple weeks ago are at or slightly above 80% capacity. Even the new drive has over 1TB on it already. The 11th bay has the SSD with the OS on it.


Movie buff I presume ? I watch a movie, with rare exceptions, I never wanna see it again. I recorded that movie.... Zero Dark Thirty about 4 months agaio.... haven't watched it yet








Quote:


> I currently have two of the six 4TB WD blacks I'll be putting in the Enthoo Primo. I'm just waiting now for the price to drop again and I'll snag up the other four drives I need, and after that I'll be looking for the price to drop on the 1TB samsung EVOs to go with the one I already have fill up the rest of the Enthoo Primo's SSD slots. By that time I'll probably already be started working on my next build.


I used to use / recommended the blacks as well as the Barracuda XT for 1 TB size .... Both had 5 year warrantees but the XTs were faster .....stopped buying / recommending the blacks tho ...dunno why but when they went from 1TB to 2TB they all of a sudden jumped to 9.7% failure rate, which was double anything else on the market, so I switched. To give credit where it's due, they still honored the warranty, but they wouldn't cross ship which I also found annoying. The Barracuda's 7200.12's didn't serve as well as the XTs but their 1TBs at 2.51% failure rate were worse than the 2TBs.... the XTs were crazy reliable and fast but Seagate dropped them cause cost too much to make..... I'm using the new 2TB hybrids now which are crazy fast....especially on network access.....tho for some reason it takes maybe a second longer for mapped drives to show up on boot as compared to the NAS.....windows networking / handshaking / permissions I presume.

http://www.itproportal.com/2010/12/09/pc-component-failure-rates-documented/
Quote:


> That's why losing any of the available HDD bays in any computer build I have is never an option.


If they ever start a "electronic version" of that TV show.... "Hoarders", I'm nominating you !







.


----------



## Maverickbp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> Depends on what ya install there......here's mine
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thatz the upper HD cage ya can see in the pick
> 
> .


I got the MCP35x which is decently small as for as pumps go but ya I must've misread as I didn't know you meant to move the pump mounting plate. At it's default location the top intel is right in front of 3 grommets that will hopefully allow a direct smooth feed straight from the reservoir, while the front outlet will be right behind the motherboards mounting plate wall allowing me to just run a slight bend around the corner and up to the reservoir. This is of course all my hopes as again I'm new to this and haven't received my gpu's so I can start my build.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Maverickbp*
> 
> I got the MCP35x which is decently small as for as pumps go but ya I must've misread as I didn't know you meant to move the pump mounting plate. At it's default location the top intel is right in front of 3 grommets that will hopefully allow a direct smooth feed straight from the reservoir, while the front outlet will be right behind the motherboards mounting plate wall allowing me to just run a slight bend around the corner and up to the reservoir. This is of course all my hopes as again I'm new to this and haven't received my gpu's so I can start my build.


Yes, well referring to my pic, I have the twin 35x's mounted on a heat sink with a fan below and sitting up on legs to provide air flow to the fan .... so you will have a lot more room vertically and depth wise. Width wise, left to right in the pic, we shud be the same. It worked out conveniently for me that the intake was almost perfectly horizontal run, the discharge was a half inch prolly less .... of course rotating 90s made the horizontal alignment meaningless.

You will have a little more to wrestle with on the vertical dimension but ya can slide that bracket along the rails into several different positions to ease any alignment woes.


----------



## bond32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> Yes, well referring to my pic, I have the twin 35x's mounted on a heat sink with a fan below and sitting up on legs to provide air flow to the fan .... so you will have a lot more room vertically and depth wise. Width wise, left to right in the pic, we shud be the same. It worked out conveniently for me that the intake was almost perfectly horizontal run, the discharge was a half inch prolly less .... of course rotating 90s made the horizontal alignment meaningless.
> 
> You will have a little more to wrestle with on the vertical dimension but ya can slide that bracket along the rails into several different positions to ease any alignment woes.


Do you have any way to measure flow? Also why use the 90, why not just use the alternate intake? I know the top intake provides better flow/head, but from the looks of your setup I would have thought if you use the alternate intake it would be slightly less head loss.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> Do you have any way to measure flow? Also why use the 90, why not just use the alternate intake? I know the top intake provides better flow/head, but from the looks of your setup I would have thought if you use the alternate intake it would be slightly less head loss.


I have the Bitspower Flow Wheels but so far no way that anyone knows of at this point to turn the signals into something calibrated. No answer from Bitspower as yet.

As for the 90, we had a discussion over on Martin's forum ..... scroll down to November 23, 2013 comments here

http://martinsliquidlab.org/2012/01/29/swiftech-mcp35x2-pump/

The distance is 3 inches BTW, no way could done that with 0 elbows..... wud required 45 at least.


----------



## Hereisphilly

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> Scary....RAID 0 and no backups ... Yikes. One drive goes south and all gone forever. Reasons I liked the Infrant NAS .... Hot Swap, small enclosure, easy permissions, auto rebuild .... reasons I didn't like were if controller goes south, as it did to me, you SoL.


I've got netgears update to that Nas, the ReadyNAS NV+ v2, I've had if for a few years now and its great! Not the fastest but was cheap when I got it and is built like a tank.
I love the auto expansion of it, so you can easily expand it and it just rebuilds automatically across new new disks

But yeah I take your point on if it craps out, all the data is gone. I have 4x2tb WD Reds, and nearly lost the whole array once due to old disks (that the reds were replacing) crapping out on the raid rebuild. After nearly dying inside at the prospect of losing my data, I now backup the Raid 5 Nas with 2x3tb Toshiba disks in just a Jbod in the primo to cover all bases

Costs me fortune in disks mind you, as to get more space on the nas, I need to not only buy 4 bigger disks for the array and rebuild them one by one, but then also increase the size of the backup too! (I don't like to keep disks that have been hammered by a nas, as their load cycle counts are often high)


----------



## EnderUK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hereisphilly*
> 
> Yeah the bracket doesn't fit an Alphacool d5 with the custom top, unless you take the metal baseplate off the pump top and screw the bracket directly into the acetal top. That's how I got mine to work anyway, and it fits like a dream now.
> 
> You really have to remove res bracket abd mouint the tube res brackets directly on the main case backplane. One you do that the hole for tubing lines up perfectly with the pump below. With my pump it was like it was made for it
> 
> As long as your front rad is less than 45mm thick, it will fit with the hard drive cages in place. Tubing however is another matter for which you have to get creative


Yeah thats how got the pump to fit but it still over hangs. Oh well its in now. I'm keeping the res bracket on and running the tube into 90° fitting not great but meh. Ive taken the HD cages out pit the radiator in the Sudan position. Still might change when I get the New radiator. Need to order and fan hub for the 8 New fans hoping to remember where I saw something similar to the current primo fan hub.


----------



## bond32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> I have the Bitspower Flow Wheels but so far no way that anyone knows of at this point to turn the signals into something calibrated. No answer from Bitspower as yet.
> 
> As for the 90, we had a discussion over on Martin's forum ..... scroll down to November 23, 2013 comments here
> 
> http://martinsliquidlab.org/2012/01/29/swiftech-mcp35x2-pump/
> 
> The distance is 3 inches BTW, no way could done that with 0 elbows..... wud required 45 at least.


I see. Did you see this? http://koolance.com/adt-fm03-flow-meter-frequency-adapter

Not sure if the bitspower output is pulses, but that may work if it is...

In other news, been an interesting morning. Decided to swap out the bay res for the tank reservoir. My D5 pump is the only issue right now with my build, it's rather noisy. If this doesn't work, will look into the dual ddc setup from swiftech at some point...




Think I am going to attach it by some strong double side tape. Didn't want to drill holes in the floor (yet).

Also ran into an issue with my Phoyba 420... The rad is close to the same as the UT60 with some exceptions: The inner channels (maybe tanks, can't remember) are bronze rather than copper. Also the opposite end of the fittings has a bleed screw rather than a full 1/4 port like the UT60. This bleed screw has a rubber washer on the outside - not good. I gently opened it then closed it, it wouldn't stop leaking. Made me nervous but thankfully I sorta planned for these things. Nothing got wet; just took it out with the system off and used a rubber piece of the grommet passthroughs from the case that broke off. Seems to be good now, but for the future, 1. If anyone is on the fence about the UT60 vs Phobya, go with the UT60 and 2. If anyone here does have the Phoyba, make sure you keep an eye on that bleed screw.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> I see. Did you see this? http://koolance.com/adt-fm03-flow-meter-frequency-adapter
> 
> Not sure if the bitspower output is pulses, but that may work if it is...


Seen that discussed a bit and tested out by Darlene (IT Diva) in the Lamptron CW611 thread. It only works with the Koolance flow meter models listed.

The Bitspower flow meter just measures RPM, but there's no way to convert that to a liters / gallons per minute or anything like that. It's tach is meant to be used connected to a mobo and used to control shutdown via the BIOS if flow stops, or to a fan controller that reads it as rpms, some of which have alarms you can set if RPMs drop below a set threshold.


----------



## bond32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Seen that discussed a bit and tested out by Darlene (IT Diva) in the Lamptron CW611 thread. It only works with the Koolance flow meter models listed.
> 
> The Bitspower flow meter just measures RPM, but there's no way to convert that to a liters / gallons per minute or anything like that. It's tach is meant to be used connected to a mobo and used to control shutdown via the BIOS if flow stops.


That's a shame... So basically the output of the Bitspower is just to give you a relative idea of flow. I was considering a flow meter whenever I come up with funds, guess the koolance is the better option although expensive.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> That's a shame... So basically the output of the Bitspower is just to give you a relative idea of flow. I was considering a flow meter whenever I come up with funds, guess the koolance is the better option although expensive.


That's pretty much what I got out of a conversation with IT Diva in the CW611 thread. I tend to trust her opinions on such things (electronics) as much or more so than anyone else I can think of.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hereisphilly*
> 
> I've got netgears update to that Nas, the ReadyNAS NV+ v2, I've had if for a few years now and its great! Not the fastest but was cheap when I got it and is built like a tank.
> I love the auto expansion of it, so you can easily expand it and it just rebuilds automatically across new new disks
> 
> But yeah I take your point on if it craps out, all the data is gone. I have 4x2tb WD Reds, and nearly lost the whole array once due to old disks (that the reds were replacing) crapping out on the raid rebuild. After nearly dying inside at the prospect of losing my data, I now backup the Raid 5 Nas with 2x3tb Toshiba disks in just a Jbod in the primo to cover all bases
> 
> Costs me fortune in disks mind you, as to get more space on the nas, I need to not only buy 4 bigger disks for the array and rebuild them one by one, but then also increase the size of the backup too! (I don't like to keep disks that have been hammered by a nas, as their load cycle counts are often high)


Yeah.... I loved it..... upgraded from two 500 GB to two 1TB and then to 2Tb just by putting new disks in and then taking old ones out. I was prepared for disk failure, not controller failure







.... but still had backups to backups.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> That's pretty much what I got out of a conversation with IT Diva in the CW611 thread. I tend to trust her opinions on such things (electronics) as much or more so than anyone else I can think of.


I never did get an answer from either one so not sure what is what .... they have these little "inserts" for different tube sized but don't say when to use which one..... I did get a rpm read on the Six Eyes..... but it was so low that it sends off this ear piercing alarm which unfortunately, the setpoint is not adjustable .... talked to factory .... looks like it will be in Six Eyes 2. If not for that wud be simply enough to pull off pump curve via rpm or pressure.

Then all we need is to do is give Darlene the figures and have her carve up a circuit diagram and make a PCB


----------



## Liqu1dShadow

My EP build if anyone is interested









http://www.overclock.net/t/1453740/build-log-red-dwarf-ii-enthoo-primo-photo-heavy


----------



## owcraftsman

Coming along nicely Liqu1dShadow you have some nice mods there. I took a different route this time no major mods. The case is awesome to work with out of the box.


----------



## DutchSteph

Finally got mine done! Extremely happy with this case!


----------



## Liqu1dShadow




----------



## Pierre3400

Damn that thing is gonna be a blast to build.


----------



## Liqu1dShadow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pierre3400*
> 
> 
> 
> Damn that thing is gonna be a blast to build.


What's the plan? Build log?


----------



## bond32

Just curious, how many of you prefer silence? Interestingly, since I got this case, I have become quite a silence freak. I'm so happy now that my rig is 1. Super quiet and 2. OC'ed to the max. Loudest thing now in my case are the stock phanteks fans which as well all know are pretty darn quiet. I generally run the AP-15's around 1000 RPM which keeps them very quiet. All this came about now that my pump is quiet too.


----------



## Pierre3400

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Liqu1dShadow*
> 
> What's the plan? Build log?


Plan hasnt been made 100% yet, as far as cooling parts.

But i'll be mvoing my current system into it.

Asus Maximus VI Formula
4770K
2x 7970 6Gb cards,
AX1200
Few SSD's

Cooling D5 (looking to get dual D5)
480mm Monsta with 8 GT AP15s,
420mm in the top, not sure on fans yet.
240mm in the side.

So far, all i have is the Monsta and w but load of GT AP15s.

As far as build log, i wont be making one on this site. Since I dont have sponsors i cant be bothered to post the same log in tons of places.


----------



## bond32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pierre3400*
> 
> Plan hasnt been made 100% yet, as far as cooling parts.
> 
> But i'll be mvoing my current system into it.
> 
> Asus Maximus VI Formula
> 4770K
> 2x 7970 6Gb cards,
> AX1200
> Few SSD's
> 
> Cooling D5 (looking to get dual D5)
> 480mm Monsta with 8 GT AP15s,
> 420mm in the top, not sure on fans yet.
> 240mm in the side.
> 
> So far, all i have is the Monsta and w but load of GT AP15s.
> 
> As far as build log, i wont be making one on this site. Since I dont have sponsors i cant be bothered to post the same log in tons of places.


I have a 480 and a 420, you are likely ok with just 1 D5


----------



## Liqu1dShadow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *owcraftsman*
> 
> Coming along nicely Liqu1dShadow you have some nice mods there. I took a different route this time no major mods. The case is awesome to work with out of the box.


Have to agree, very easy to work with and not much needs changing


----------



## Pierre3400

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> I have a 480 and a 420, you are likely ok with just 1 D5


Good to know. Then why to folks use double pumps?


----------



## bond32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pierre3400*
> 
> Good to know. Then why to folks use double pumps?


Double would be only for the truly extreme flow needs. Radiators are not restrictive. Most restrictive thing you have are the gpu blocks. If you set them up in parallel, 1 D5 would do the job.

Although, you're at the limit I suppose of 1 D5. If you planned on adding a gpu or 2 then you would need 2.


----------



## Liqu1dShadow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> Double would be only for the truly extreme flow needs. Radiators are not restrictive. Most restrictive thing you have are the gpu blocks. If you set them up in parallel, 1 D5 would do the job.
> 
> Although, you're at the limit I suppose of 1 D5. If you planned on adding a gpu or 2 then you would need 2.


Would that D5 need to be at setting 5 to cope?

I have D5 - 240mm - CPU block - MoBo - 480mm - GPU1 - GPU2 - Flow Indicater - Return to Res

Was planning on having mine on setting 3


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Besides added head pressure, a very common reason for dual pumps is redundancy, to be able to have one still working if one fails.

One D5 can easily handle a typical loop with multiple rads and several waterblocks including 2 GPUs in series even, but if you were going to have a loop with more than an average amount of restriction, like 3 or more GPU blocks, a CPU, and maybe even mobo & / or ram blocks, then you're getting into territory where you would definitely benefit from dual D5s or perhaps a DDC instead, with it's higher head pressure, would be the better choice, with the caveat that DDCs sometimes overheat if let to run at 100% for too long (especially in a low restriction loop). The PWM DDC is a good choice in that respect, so it only ramps up when its needed to, and so is adding the optional heatsinks for DDCs that are available.

DDCs get hot, and displace most of their heat through the bottom of the pump. D5s don't really get hot, but they displace their heat into the water. DDCs have a higher head pressure, so are better in loops with a lot of restriction. D5s have a higher flow rate. Running a D5 too fast can actually cause your loop temps to go up, as there is no benefit to flow going but so fast and at a certain point all you'll be doing as adding more pump heat to the loop. There's a thread around here recently where quite a few people were surprised to find their loop temps went down - some by several deg C - after turning their D5 pump speeds down from 4-5 or 3, down to 2 or 1 even.


----------



## bond32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Liqu1dShadow*
> 
> Would that D5 need to be at setting 5 to cope?
> 
> I have D5 - 240mm - CPU block - MoBo - 480mm - GPU1 - GPU2 - Flow Indicater - Return to Res
> 
> Was planning on having mine on setting 3


I would say yes. The general target is 1 gpm, but your loop looks slightly more restrictive


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> Just curious, how many of you prefer silence? Interestingly, since I got this case, I have become quite a silence freak. I'm so happy now that my rig is 1. Super quiet and 2. OC'ed to the max. Loudest thing now in my case are the stock phanteks fans which as well all know are pretty darn quiet. I generally run the AP-15's around 1000 RPM which keeps them very quiet. All this came about now that my pump is quiet too.


Silence is golden. Loudest thing in my systems is HDDs.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> Just curious, how many of you prefer silence? Interestingly, since I got this case, I have become quite a silence freak. I'm so happy now that my rig is 1. Super quiet and 2. OC'ed to the max. Loudest thing now in my case are the stock phanteks fans which as well all know are pretty darn quiet. I generally run the AP-15's around 1000 RPM which keeps them very quiet. All this came about now that my pump is quiet too.


Silence is golden .... I love silence..... unfortunately I'm married.

My phanteks fans generally peak at about 863 rpm under Furmark (440ish at idle) ..... I have to disable fan profile to do any delta T testing .... at the lower speed, GPU temps climb to 44C .... at 1200 they are 39C. I see no advantage to the 5C

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pierre3400*
> 
> Plan hasnt been made 100% yet, as far as cooling parts.
> 
> But i'll be mvoing my current system into it.
> 
> Asus Maximus VI Formula
> 4770K
> 2x 7970 6Gb cards,
> AX1200
> Few SSD's
> 
> Cooling D5 (looking to get dual D5)
> 480mm Monsta with 8 GT AP15s,
> 420mm in the top, not sure on fans yet.
> 240mm in the side.
> 
> So far, all i have is the Monsta and w but load of GT AP15s.
> 
> As far as build log, i wont be making one on this site. Since I dont have sponsors i cant be bothered to post the same log in tons of places.


I have a very similar build ....

Same MoBo
Same CPU (4.6 Ghz)
2 x 780 DCII's (+25% OC)
Seasonic X-1250
I went with the Dual 35x2 pump (lovin it too)

I think you have more than enough rad / fans

I show a Delta T of 8.4C under Furmark ..... I have a 280 + 420 with just 5 Phanteks fans in push. Now I do lose some cooling with the top filter on (4.4C) and the case on the desk (1.3C). So I'd suggest holding off on purchasing the 240 for the front till ya see if ya need it. If I can do 8.4C with my rads, your 480 should more than account for any extra heat from the 7970s and that would be with just with one fan for each rad position.... might wanna hold off on adding a 2nd in push pull and save $140 till ya see what temps ya get with just 1 fan.

As for the 420, Id recommend ya place an XT45 it with the ports to the rear .... about 1" forward of the all the way pushed back position so ya can access the top rad ports for a fill and bleed line. Can use the three phanteks fans that came with the case (top bottom and rear) for the Rad fans..... however, I chose three new LED fans like the ones in the front for the top....the original top and bottom fans got shifted to the side panel.

Keep in mind NOT to mix and match Phanteks case fans with the packaged versions, UNLESS you ask Phanteks to send you the missing vibration isolation pads for the case fans..... seems the ones in the Enthoo, at least the 1st batch shipped, don't have the pads whereas the ones ya but at newegg / FCPU do and if ya mix them, ya have a wobbly installation as the pads add 2mm to the thickness.

here's how the Phanteks fans stand up against the competition

http://www.silentpcreview.com/article1345-page7.html


----------



## bond32

That's a good bit cooler than my r9 290x. It can peak around 56 C when mining from the gpu and cpu.

I haven't even put the side panels on yet. Just amazed at how quiet my setup really is. Now to put some casters on the bottom...


----------



## Pierre3400

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> Double would be only for the truly extreme flow needs. Radiators are not restrictive. Most restrictive thing you have are the gpu blocks. If you set them up in parallel, 1 D5 would do the job.
> 
> Although, you're at the limit I suppose of 1 D5. If you planned on adding a gpu or 2 then you would need 2.


I have 2x 7970's with EK vga blocks on. Not that they seem to restrictive.


----------



## EliteReplay

the best case i have seen so far


----------



## bond32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pierre3400*
> 
> I have 2x 7970's with EK vga blocks on. Not that they seem to restrictive.


GPU blocks tend to be the most restrictive items in the water loop. Compared to radiators, cpu block, fittings, they are.

If you're concerned about flow, try to set up the loop with the least amount of 90's and 45's. Also, directly at the pump in/out make sure, or try to make it straight. These things are minor, one or two won't affect much.


----------



## Roxycon

Silence is king all my fans except mb 35mm fans are at 600-700rpm under load, loudest thing is my dual d5 pwm's next would be hdd's

Have dual d5's because of the all parallel loop and i do not reccomend putting a 90 after the pump(s)







and redundancy is always nice
Have to change that when i get around to do the last mods to my system


----------



## Terminus14

Saw this at Lowes. Thought it was fitting. Lol

Edit: This is what I get for trying to post on mobile.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Terminus14*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Saw this at Lowes. Thought it was fitting. Lol


I don't get it


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Terminus14*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Saw this at Lowes. Thought it was fitting. Lol


Looks like you used the wrong imgur link ...

http://i.imgur.com/9dKgEhl.jpg


----------



## owcraftsman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> Just curious, how many of you prefer silence? Interestingly, since I got this case, I have become quite a silence freak. I'm so happy now that my rig is 1. Super quiet and 2. OC'ed to the max. Loudest thing now in my case are the stock phanteks fans which as well all know are pretty darn quiet. I generally run the AP-15's around 1000 RPM which keeps them very quiet. All this came about now that my pump is quiet too.
> 
> 
> 
> Silence is golden .... I love silence..... unfortunately I'm married.
> 
> My phanteks fans generally peak at about 863 rpm under Furmark (440ish at idle) ..... I have to disable fan profile to do any delta T testing .... at the lower speed, GPU temps climb to 44C .... at 1200 they are 39C. I see no advantage to the 5C
Click to expand...

I'm seeing 550-600 rpm idle 1200-1250 rpm 100% load CPU & GPU using 8 Phanteks and the PWM controller GPU hits 49c^ and CPU hits 70c^ 4 pin molex attached for auxiliary pwr your numbers seem low to me.

let's hope you wife doesn't read your post since you like silence


----------



## JackNaylorPE

If I read correctly, you have the TC120x 3 to my AC140x3 and a AC120x2 to my AC140x2 .... so I have about 36% more rad area than you do. Remember at those lower temps I have the top filter / screen off so my 44-45 is not that much different than your 49 given the rad difference. I have the fans controlled by Ai Suite 3's FanXpert 2 which does a bang up job. Hit a button and it tunes the fans , creates a profile and you can fine tune it.....took me quite a while to find a happy medium. Mt CPU huits 74C at 4.6 / 1.38 VYD (Hits 1.48 under adaptive under RoG Bench)

if I plug in the 12v to the hub tho....everything goes to full speed.


----------



## Liqu1dShadow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> GPU blocks tend to be the most restrictive items in the water loop. Compared to radiators, cpu block, fittings, they are.
> 
> If you're concerned about flow, try to set up the loop with the least amount of 90's and 45's. Also, directly at the pump in/out make sure, or try to make it straight. These things are minor, one or two won't affect much.


Am I in trouble? lol


----------



## bond32

I'd say you went more for looks than flow concern... Thats def one of if not the best looking enthoo builds i've seen


----------



## Liqu1dShadow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> I'd say you went more for looks than flow concern... Thats def one of if not the best looking enthoo builds i've seen


Thanks







worked my socks off on it









Another shot:


----------



## Maverickbp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> As for the 420, Id recommend ya place an XT45 it with the ports to the rear .... about 1" forward of the all the way pushed back position so ya can access the top rad ports for a fill and bleed line.


I went a bit pricey with my bleed port in the base of my system but I have a question concerning how you filled yours. I've seen people fill using the reservoir using a syringe or whatever so considered doing the same but would like to know how you went about filling yours since we have the same rads? I "think" I remember seeing pictures of you using a funnel with a big tube but can't remember. How did you fill yours and how did you make sure to not spill or know when you were full since you can't see through the rad? I've seen some primochill funnels with G 1/4 adapter that seemed pretty cool and a possibility.

Also since you're using the top as a bleed port how are you going about it since it's at the top of your system? Are you tilting your system completely on it's side? I probably should've asked first and saved myself like $35 on my bleed setup but it is a pretty sweet idea I borrowed from here I have to admit.


----------



## owcraftsman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> If I read correctly, you have the TC120x 3 to my AC140x3 and a AC120x2 to my AC140x2 .... so I have about 36% more rad area than you do. Remember at those lower temps I have the top filter / screen off so my 44-45 is not that much different than your 49 given the rad difference. I have the fans controlled by Ai Suite 3's FanXpert 2 which does a bang up job. Hit a button and it tunes the fans , creates a profile and you can fine tune it.....took me quite a while to find a happy medium. Mt CPU huits 74C at 4.6 / 1.38 VYD (Hits 1.48 under adaptive under RoG Bench)
> 
> if I plug in the 12v to the hub tho....everything goes to full speed.


 

No I have 8x F140SP and thought you had the same. Not sure what AC140/s or TC120/s are? For me, 5x are the LED version all connected to the controller +12v aux. power. 6x are attached to UT60 420mm top mounted radiator and I have removed the micro filter since the 6x rad fans exhaust. Currently I do not use the MSI fan software and use the default curve of the F1.5 bios on a MSI Z87 G45 Gamer which I see no need to make adjustments to. My pump is a D5 vario running static high speed or avg 4780 rpm which indicates max flow rate for my loop.


----------



## Pierre3400

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Liqu1dShadow*
> 
> Thanks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> worked my socks off on it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Another shot:
> http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/1823376/width/500/height/1000


Which fittings are you using?


----------



## Liqu1dShadow

Primochill Revolver

I


----------



## Hereisphilly

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pierre3400*
> 
> Which fittings are you using?


They look like primochill revolver fittings to me, very nice!


----------



## Pierre3400

Thank you, now to find them in Europe, and in stock!

I installed my 480Monsta last night, and i am now getting ready to order the 420 for the top, and the 240mm for the side.

I want to use the 240mm, as a rad, that will handle the "hot" water. I want to run, 240mm, then into the 420mm in the top, and then back down to the 480 at the bottom, but I have a feeling that installing the 240 would be a waist?

I should be getting enough cooling from 1x 480 Monsta in push/pull and 1x 420 XT45 in push/pull??

Should i consider the 240 on the side with push/pull or would just be a waist of money?


----------



## chrisnyc75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pierre3400*
> 
> Thank you, now to find them in Europe, and in stock!
> 
> I installed my 480Monsta last night, and i am now getting ready to order the 420 for the top, and the 240mm for the side.
> 
> I want to use the 240mm, as a rad, that will handle the "hot" water. I want to run, 240mm, then into the 420mm in the top, and then back down to the 480 at the bottom, but I have a feeling that installing the 240 would be a waist?
> 
> I should be getting enough cooling from 1x 480 Monsta in push/pull and 1x 420 XT45 in push/pull??
> 
> Should i consider the 240 on the side with push/pull or would just be a waist of money?


The 240 would almost certainly be overkill, unless you're running 4xSLI or something crazy like that. You really only need 120mm per component, then add 240mm for good measure, even for the most extreme overclocks. Anything much beyond that is only going to add restriction to your flow.


----------



## bond32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pierre3400*
> 
> Thank you, now to find them in Europe, and in stock!
> 
> I installed my 480Monsta last night, and i am now getting ready to order the 420 for the top, and the 240mm for the side.
> 
> I want to use the 240mm, as a rad, that will handle the "hot" water. I want to run, 240mm, then into the 420mm in the top, and then back down to the 480 at the bottom, but I have a feeling that installing the 240 would be a waist?
> 
> I should be getting enough cooling from 1x 480 Monsta in push/pull and 1x 420 XT45 in push/pull??
> 
> Should i consider the 240 on the side with push/pull or would just be a waist of money?


Yes. You would have enough cooling with the one 480...


----------



## simsim44

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *owcraftsman*
> 
> 
> 
> .


Sorry off topic.
Thanks for the reply on the Egg, fit and finish review, of this case, thought this case was fairly new, I didn't think (as usual) that many owned it.


----------



## Liqu1dShadow

Here we go


----------



## cestessr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> *Enthoo Primo first review by Anandtech*
> http://www.anandtech.com/show/7212/phanteks-enthoo-primo-case-review
> 
> *Enthoo Primo review by Jesse on theMODZOO*
> http://themodzoo.com/forum/index.php?/topic/854-case-review-phanteks-enthoo-primo-full-tower-review/
> 
> Phanteks Enthoo Primo website link with specifications and manual
> http://www.phanteks.com/Enthoo-Primo.html
> 
> *FAQ*
> ** Kindly donated by user jassilamba (Jesse on theMODZOO) **
> 
> I have been getting questions all over the place, so I decided to take them all and put them in one place. If you have a question on this case, leave a comment and I will get it added in here.
> 
> *What is the max clearance for a radiator installed in the top panel?*
> - The case has a clearance of 70mm for mounting a radiator in the roof. The mounts are offset by ~54mm so installing a 60mm (120mm series) radiator in push pull should not be an issue. As long as you do not have anything taller than 53mm on the motherboard (including ram), you can even install a 480mm monsta radiator in push pull. The X79 Dark, and G-Skill ram CAN be used with a monsta rad in push pull.
> 
> *What is the space between the top of the case, and the top of the top 5.25" drive bay?*
> - The space from the top of the case to the top of the top 5.25" drive bay is 55mm or 2.16 inches. A single drive bay is 41.3mm tall, so 55+41 = 96mm. That is enough space to mount a 45mm or a 60mm rad in push pull and only loose the top drive bay.
> 
> Dont forget the fittings if you have them facing the front as they might take more space and.
> 
> *What is the max clearance for installing a radiator in the front with the HDD cages in place?*
> - You have 45mm of space before you will hit the HDD cages. A XT 45 will fit, but it will be a very close fit, you can expect the HDD cage to rub a little against the rad.
> 
> *Can I install a 420mm radiator in the bottom of the case?*
> - Depends on how comfortable you are with modding. In order to fit a 420mm radiator in the bottom you would have to modify the panel that conceals the HDD cages, and the drive bays. You would also have to use 120mm fans with 140mm to 120mm adapters. If you do not want to use adapters, you will have to drill holes in the bottom for 140mm fan mounting.
> 
> *Can I fit a 140mm series, 60mm radiator in the roof of the case in push/pull?*
> - No, a 140mm series rad in 60mm will be too close to the motherboard heatsinks and the fans will come in the way. Users might be able to use a shroud or a 140mm to 120mm fan adapter on the 140mm rad and use 120mm fans.
> 
> *Can I fit a 120mm series, 60mm thick radiator in the roof of the case in push/pull?*
> - Yes, the only things that will come in the way are if you are using some ultra-high profile RAM like the corsair dominator. The case has a clearance of 70mm on the inside, and the radiator mounts are offset a bit. Some motherboards might have issues with VRM water blocks and having a 120mm rad in push pull.
> 
> *Can I install a 240mm radiator in the front with both the drive cages in place?*
> - Yes, you can, but one issue you will run into is routing the tubes. The only way to do that would be is to remove the bottom HDD cage mount (held in place with 2 thumb screws). Once that is removed you get about 1.25" of space opened up at the bottom. The drive cages would have to be hung from the top and you can route your tubing from the bottom of both the drive cages.
> 
> *Can I install 2 PSUs in the Enthoo Primo and still use the bottom of the case for a 480mm radiator?*
> - Yes, you can easily do that, as seen in the picture below you would just have to modify the bottom of the case a bit. Either cut the marked part off, or bend it back straight. I would suggest using some Velcro straps to hold the PSU down. A 90 degree angled cable will make the job easier.
> 
> *Can I fit a fat Monsta radiator in push pull with some fan shrouds, and keep the top HDD cage?*
> - Yes, the bottom of the case offers almost 160mm of space before you will hit the bottom of the HDD cage.
> 
> *Can I fit a 280mm radiator in the front of the case?*
> - If you are handy with a dremel yes you can. You would need to modify the 5.25" drive bay to allow for the length of a 280mm radiator.
> 
> *Does anyone know if a 480 rad in the bottom will fit with the upper section of the HDD cage? Can the top section be hung without the need of the bottom section of the cage?*
> - Yes, it will. You have enough space to put in a monsta 480 radiator and still keep the top HDD cage.
> 
> *Does anyone know if I could mount a reservoir above the GPU's? But under the top rear exhaust fan?*
> - Depends on the size of the reservoir you are using, there is space to mount a reservoir on the top. If you also want you cannot use the top 140mm fan and put in a 80mm in its place. That way you will enough space for a longer rad as well.
> *Can I remove the Pahteks badge in the bottom side of the case?*
> - Yes, the badge is held in place by 4 acorn nuts and can be removed.
> 
> *Can the plate in the bottom front panel be removed to help increase the airflow for the front 140mm fans?*
> - Yes, I started a guide on that here - Clicky Click
> 
> *Can I change the LEDs from blue to a different color?*
> - Yes you can. The LED strip used by Phanteks is 5.5mm wide. Guide here
> 
> *How many fans can I install on the included PWM fan hub?*
> - Out of the box, you can install 8 3-pin fans. The the hub is a PWM to 6 fan, and the case comes with two 3 pin fan splitters, allowing you a total of 8 fans out of the box.
> From the manual
> "PWM hub will enable PWM function to 3-pin fans. Fan 1 can only be connected to one fan and cannot be split. Fan 2 - Fan 6 can
> be split to multiple fans. Total of 11 fans can be connected to the PWM hub. All PWM functions will be controlled by fan 1."
> 
> *How wide is the opening in the 5.25" drive bays for routing tubes?*
> - The opening is 1" wide, routing the thickest of the tubing will not be an issue.
> 
> *How much room between front door and 5.25" bay grill?*
> - Less than 5mm (4.82mm on digital caliper). *doyll


----------



## bond32

Just got in two more phanteks fans. Got the ones with the LED's... Just wanted to chime in and say how awesome these are. Absolutely love the quality of every aspect of them. I know it's been mentioned before, but they have rubber on the edges where the included case fans do not. Doesn't make any difference to me, I still like them.


----------



## rpjkw11

I've never been a fan (pun intended) of fans with LEDs, but the Phanteks do look great. I'm seriously considering installing two blue LEDs in the front to compliment the blue & white cable sleaving inside.


----------



## Liqu1dShadow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rpjkw11*
> 
> I've never been a fan (pun intended) of fans with LEDs, but the Phanteks do look great. I'm seriously considering installing two blue LEDs in the front to compliment the blue & white cable sleaving inside.


I'm the same, rather have the case lot up from inside showing the fans, pulled all mine out even though they are really good fans :/


----------



## ADragg

Really like your build, Liquid! You did the same thing I did with the carbon fiber wrap on the inner wall/panel. Looks good. I need to find some other places to add some gold CF accents.

Sorry for the terrible pics


----------



## Liqu1dShadow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ADragg*
> 
> Really like your build, Liquid! You did the same thing I did with the carbon fiber wrap on the inner wall/panel. Looks good. I need to find some other places to add some gold CF accents.
> 
> Sorry for the terrible pics


Great minds









I had to do somthing with that window as its a massive waste, so some vinyl wrap and a flow meter fit perfect









Your build looks really good, if you want more gold then the top of the res bracket works as I have done that and put a red temp sensors in there


----------



## Anarchy2703

Hi guys,

I have decided to build my rig and then watercool it straight away. I will be cooling a 4670k and an Asus 780. I plan to add another 780 later down the line. My focus right now is silence as I only game at 1080p and will get a 1600p monitor soon. My question is, do you think a 60mm 420 rad and a 60mm 280 rad will sufficiently cool that cpu and eventually two 780s?


----------



## Liqu1dShadow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anarchy2703*
> 
> Hi guys,
> 
> I have decided to build my rig and then watercool it straight away. I will be cooling a 4670k and an Asus 780. I plan to add another 780 later down the line. My focus right now is silence as I only game at 1080p and will get a 1600p monitor soon. My question is, do you think a 60mm 420 rad and a 60mm 280 rad will sufficiently cool that cpu and eventually two 780s?


I should imagin so, I have 480 + 240 and my CPU will be overclocked to 4.8/5Ghz and my GPU's will be running a custom BIOS and over volted, think you have more Sq mm of rad space as well


----------



## Anarchy2703

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Liqu1dShadow*
> 
> I should imagin so, I have 480 + 240 and my CPU will be overclocked to 4.8/5Ghz and my GPU's will be running a custom BIOS and over volted, think you have more Sq mm of rad space as well


Good to know. I was going to go with two 420s but then I read the FAQ and I don't really want to do any modding to the case if I can avoid it. So looks like a 280 and a 420.


----------



## Liqu1dShadow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anarchy2703*
> 
> Good to know. I was going to go with two 420s but then I read the FAQ and I don't really want to do any modding to the case if I can avoid it. So looks like a 280 and a 420.


Stick a 280 in the bottom and 480 up top?


----------



## Anarchy2703

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Liqu1dShadow*
> 
> Stick a 280 in the bottom and 480 up top?


I considered a 480 in the bottom and a 420 in the top but I'd like to use the included fans and just buy some more 140sp from phanteks. Plus I'd like the budget headroom for any extra fittings I may need . Trying not to go over £1700 when I build my system in a month or two.


----------



## Liqu1dShadow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anarchy2703*
> 
> I considered a 480 in the bottom and a 420 in the top but I'd like to use the included fans and just buy some more 140sp from phanteks. Plus I'd like the budget headroom for any extra fittings I may need . Trying not to go over £1700 when I build my system in a month or two.


Think you have to be carefull with 140mm wide rads in the bottom as the rad casing can hit the window mounts


----------



## Anarchy2703

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Liqu1dShadow*
> 
> Think you have to be carefull with 140mm wide rads in the bottom as the rad casing can hit the window mounts


I just measured the distance from the PSU shroud to the lip of the door. Thats 150mm, the lip of the window on the side panel is just under 5mm, so that leaves 145mm of space for the rad. I'm getting the Phobya G-Changer 280 which is 145. So just barely. I could get the Alphacool UT60 which is 1mm thinner (I know 1mm







). Whats your thoughts?


----------



## krisz9

delete.


----------



## Liqu1dShadow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anarchy2703*
> 
> I just measured the distance from the PSU shroud to the lip of the door. Thats 150mm, the lip of the window on the side panel is just under 5mm, so that leaves 145mm of space for the rad. I'm getting the Phobya G-Changer 280 which is 145. So just barely. I could get the Alphacool UT60 which is 1mm thinner (I know 1mm
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ). Whats your thoughts?


I had an RX240 so re-used itand got a new Black Ice 480mm as mine are 120mm wide I can get away with a thicker shroud round the rad,

I really like the look of the Black Ice though, quite stealthy


----------



## Anarchy2703

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Liqu1dShadow*
> 
> I had an RX240 so re-used itand got a new Black Ice 480mm as mine are 120mm wide I can get away with a thicker shroud round the rad,
> 
> I really like the look of the Black Ice though, quite stealthy


What fans are you using on yours? Because the only thing that puts me of the 480 is what fans. I want decent cooling, so I can lower rpms and keep noise as minimal as possible. I was going to get the Black Ices but then I saw the width. Oh well.


----------



## Liqu1dShadow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anarchy2703*
> 
> What fans are you using on yours? Because the only thing that puts me of the 480 is what fans. I want decent cooling, so I can lower rpms and keep noise as minimal as possible. I was going to get the Black Ices but then I saw the width. Oh well.


Corsair SP120's in push config,


----------



## Anarchy2703

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Liqu1dShadow*
> 
> Corsair SP120's in push config,


Whats the noise level like? I assume you've got the quiet editions. May get 4 of those and a 480 then.


----------



## Liqu1dShadow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anarchy2703*
> 
> Whats the noise level like? I assume you've got the quiet editions. May get 4 of those and a 480 then.


They are completely silent, sit them at 700rpm and you can't here them, and yes they are the Quiet Editions and PWM (not that it matters about PWM as they are all running off the PWM Hub)


----------



## owcraftsman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *simsim44*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *owcraftsman*
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry off topic.
> Thanks for the reply on the Egg, fit and finish review, of this case, thought this case was fairly new, I didn't think (as usual) that many owned it.
Click to expand...

Glad I could help and welcome to OCN. Have a poke around there is way more to this forum than this thread. Hope you enjoy your stay here. As I stated the fit and finish of the case is as good as the best cases you'll find with the exception of the side panel glass. I have yet to complain to Phanteks about it but if they won't replace it I'll have to do it myself. The best way I can describe it was mentioned in another post here in this thread. It's as if a protective cover is on the inside of the case side panel glass and needs to be peeled off yet there is none on it. The glass is not clear and has a fog like haze that varies in intensity and amplified by interior case lighting. The pic below is not the best quality but kinda shows what I mean. You'd have to see it in person to get the full perspective.


----------



## EliteReplay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Liqu1dShadow*
> 
> Am I in trouble? lol


hi i dont know that much about radiators... but the one u have in the floor is that a 240mm with 140mm fans?

can i go with any radiator or are some of them that i need to avoid? they seem the same to me pretty much
i like the Black ice tho they look so black


----------



## Liqu1dShadow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EliteReplay*
> 
> hi i dont know that much about radiators... but the one u have in the floor is that a 240mm with 140mm fans?
> 
> can i go with any radiator or are some of them that i need to avoid? they seem the same to me pretty much
> i like the Black ice tho they look so black


No, it's an RX240mm with 2x 120mm fans,

Have a look here (the smaller ones have the same graphs so you can pretty much gauge it off this), make sure you have static pressure fans, not airflow


----------



## EliteReplay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Liqu1dShadow*
> 
> No, it's an RX240mm with 2x 120mm fans,
> 
> Have a look here (the smaller ones have the same graphs so you can pretty much gauge it off this), make sure you have static pressure fans, not airflow


thanks
but i dont understand the graphics what dothey mean? the one with less is better?
could you please post a picture of radiators that use just two fans 120mm or 140mm

a radiator with 140mm can fit on the top and bottom of the Phanteks right?


----------



## Liqu1dShadow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EliteReplay*
> 
> thanks
> but i dont understand the graphics what dothey mean? the one with less is better?
> could you please post a picture of radiators that use just two fans 120mm or 140mm
> 
> a radiator with 140mm can fit on the top and bottom of the Phanteks right?


Sorry, it's how many oC the water was running over ambient during the test, lower is better

140mm dual fan rads
http://www.frozencpu.com/cat/l3/g30/c95/s930/list/p1/Liquid_Cooling-PC_Water_Cooling_Radiators-140mm_Dual-Page1.html

120mm dual fan rads
http://www.frozencpu.com/cat/l3/g30/c95/s160/list/p1/Liquid_Cooling-PC_Water_Cooling_Radiators-120mm_Dual-Page1.html


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Liqu1dShadow*
> 
> No, it's an RX240mm with 2x 120mm fans,
> 
> Have a look here (the smaller ones have the same graphs so you can pretty much gauge it off this), make sure you have static pressure fans, not airflow


I'm guessing these are results at low fan speeds? Where is this info from?


----------



## Liqu1dShadow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> I'm guessing these are results at low fan speeds? Where is this info from?


It's off here, there is a full thread about it

http://www.overclock.net/t/1382121/which-480mm-radiator


----------



## EliteReplay

is it possible to put a Alphacool UT60 on the top with Push/Pull and 140mm fans?


----------



## Liqu1dShadow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EliteReplay*
> 
> is it possible to put a Alphacool UT60 on the top with Push/Pull and 140mm fans?


Yeah but you might hit the motherboard, BUT there is loads of room under the mesh at the top so you could have the rad and fans inside the case and the other fans in the reses of the top mount.

Want a pic?


----------



## simsim44

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Liqu1dShadow*
> 
> Yeah but you might hit the motherboard, BUT there is loads of room under the mesh at the top so you could have the rad and fans inside the case and the other fans in the reses of the top mount.
> 
> Want a pic?


Would love a pic I have the H110, and have been looking for a case that it will work best with, I will go with a thicker 240 for the GPU's at a later time, I have much research to do


----------



## bond32

Heres mine, its the Phoyba G-changer which is the same size as the UT60. Have the stock phanteks fans in the top and the LED versions in the underside.


----------



## Liqu1dShadow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *simsim44*
> 
> Would love a pic I have the H110, and have been looking for a case that it will work best with, I will go with a thicker 240 for the GPU's at a later time, I have much research to do




You can put 3 140mm or 4 120mm in the top so if your push pull does not work with them all in the case you can do it this way, once the mesh is clipped on you would never know


----------



## EliteReplay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> Heres mine, its the Phoyba G-changer which is the same size as the UT60. Have the stock phanteks fans in the top and the LED versions in the underside.


this is too tight... would the alphacool XT45 45MM would fit better right?


----------



## owcraftsman

CASE
Phanteks Enthoo PRIMO PH-ES813P_BL Original Ver
FANS
PWM Fan Hub
Phanteks PH-F140SP_BK Case Fan (x3 push 420)
Phanteks PH-F140SP_BK_BLED (3x pull 420 1x rear exhaust 1x front intake)
Swiftech Helix 120mm fan (drive cage pull)
NZXT Sentry Mix 2 6Ch Fan Controller (6x monsta fans) 
Scythe Gentle Typhoon D1225C12B5AP-15 (6x Monsta 360) 
Water Blocks
XSPC Raystorm w/ Red Edition Mounting Face Plate & 2x 3mm red led/s
EK-FC R9-290X Nickel Acetal
PUMP/RES COMBO
XSPC D5 Vario
Bitspower Dual / Single D5 Top Upgrade Kit 250 - Ice Red (BP-D5TOPUK250P-BKBKIRD)
Bitspower D5 / MCP655 Pump Mod Top V2 - Acetal (G1/4 Version)(BP-D5TOPP2-BK)
Bitspower D5 / MCP655 Pump Mod Kit - Red (BP-D5MA-RD)
RADIATORS
Alphacool NexXxoS UT60 Full Copper Triple 140mm Radiator (Top Case Radiator)
Alphacool NexXxoS Monsta Triple 120mm Radiator - 80mm (Borttom Case Radiator)
FITTINGS/TUBING/MISC HARDWARE
Masterkleer Tubing PVC 19/13mm (1/2"ID) UV-reactive Dark Red (107cm or 42.126" used)
Enzotech Drain Plug G 1/4 Threaded Cap - 1/2" Barb
M3 Flat Washer - Stainless Steel - Black - 4-Pack
M3 x 30mm Pan Head Screws - Stainless Steel - Black - 4 Pack
Koolance Black rotary 90/s ½ 4x (2x ek d5 top + 1x monsta drain + 1x monsta out)
Bitspower G1/4" Rotary 45 Degree G1/4" Adapter (420 out 1x + 420 In x1)
Bitspower G1/4 Male to Female Extender (x1 420 out)
Enzotech Drain Plug G 1/4 Threaded Cap - 1/2" Barb (Drain Monsta front case)
LIGHTING
NZXT Sleeved RED LED Kit
ModMyToys Acrylic LED G1/4 Plug - Red/Black
12" Cold Cathode Kit - DBL - White
COOLANT
Distilled Water (Publix) 
IandH Silver KillCoils - Antimicrobial .999 Fine Silver Tubing / Reservoir Strip
COMPUTER HARDWARE
MSI Z87-G45 Gaming LGA 1150 (motherboard)
G.SKILL Trident X Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) F3-2400C10D-16GTX (Memory)
Intel Core i7-4770K Haswell (CPU)
MSI R9 290X 4GD5 Radeon R9 290X (GPU)
CORSAIR HX Series HX850 850W 80 PLUS GOLD Certified Modular (PSU)
Intel 530 Series SSDSC2BW240A4K5 2.5" 240GB (OS)
Western Digital HDD 1TB WD1001FALS (Data)
SONY Blu-ray BDUX10S
LAN Qualcomm Killer E2205
MONITORS
ASUS VG248QE Black 24" 144Hz 1ms (GTG) HDMI Widescreen LED Backlight LCD 3D Monitor (Primary Monitor)(DVI-DL) 
DCLCD DCL24A Black 24" 2ms Widescreen LCD Monitor 300 cd/m2 4000:1 Built-in Speakers (Secondary Monitor)(DVI-DL)
HID/s
Func MS 3 Black 5040 dpi (Gaming Mouse) 
Cooler Master CM Storm Trigger Mechanical Gaming Keyboard CherryMX Brown Switches
AUDIO
Logitech Z5500 5.1 speaker system
Logitech G35 Headset
Realtek ALC1150 w/Audio Boost & SBX Pro Studio's Sound Blaster Cinema
OPERATING SYSTEM
Windows 8.1 Pro x64

The UT 60 fits easily IMO note the last fan gets installed after the motherboard and pwr connections are made. There is approx. 10 mm of space between the mobo top HS and the 140mm fan.





The 360 monsta in the bottom of the case is a tight fit but doable



I had these fitting laying around for the drain other wise I may at some point break down and buy a valve but this make draining easy.



Pic was taken just after filling it's now bubbles free. The pump rest on anti vibration rubber. Less than 65cm of total tubing in the loop.





I'm changing the rear exhaust and drive bay fans to red led fans in the near future


----------



## owcraftsman

I've also ordered an anti vibration gasket for the case to monsta 360 attachment, and Red BitFenix 24pin + 6pin pcie + 8pin pcie Alchemy extension cables.

Here's a couple top view pics



I love the blue on the outside and red interior and light up the case badge gallery area with white for a red white and blue theme

Very patriotic huh?



Note the micro fiber filter has been removed for increased air flow since these are

exhaust and all intakes are filtered.





Any suggestion? LMK what you think


----------



## owcraftsman

Two more for good measure



Note the milky glass I sure hope Phanteks will do something about it but it's got to go and no, there is no residue from the protective cover it shipped with.


----------



## EliteReplay

whats the difference between Rev 1 and Rev 2?


----------



## bond32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EliteReplay*
> 
> this is too tight... would the alphacool XT45 45MM would fit better right?


The fit is fine with a 60mm... The bottom of the fans come just a hair under the level of the top line of screws


----------



## Liqu1dShadow

So lights in, water in, up and running, still work to do, but I'm liking the payoff for the 20+ hours of tube work






still got to tidy the cables, replace the temp sensor I broke, fit the PCI slot blanks, clean the glass window and hide some wiring


----------



## wesnerer

Looks great. What LEDs are you using?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Liqu1dShadow*
> 
> So lights in, water in, up and running, still work to do, but I'm liking the payoff for the 20+ hours of tube work
> 
> 
> 
> still got to tidy the cables, replace the temp sensor I broke, fit the PCI slot blanks, clean the glass window and hide some wiring


----------



## Liqu1dShadow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wesnerer*
> 
> Looks great. What LEDs are you using?


Thanks,









Phobia RGB with Remote + 3 strips of RGB LED's


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Maverickbp*
> 
> I went a bit pricey with my bleed port in the base of my system but I have a question concerning how you filled yours. I've seen people fill using the reservoir using a syringe or whatever so considered doing the same but would like to know how you went about filling yours since we have the same rads? I "think" I remember seeing pictures of you using a funnel with a big tube but can't remember. How did you fill yours and how did you make sure to not spill or know when you were full since you can't see through the rad? I've seen some primochill funnels with G 1/4 adapter that seemed pretty cool and a possibility.
> 
> Also since you're using the top as a bleed port how are you going about it since it's at the top of your system? Are you tilting your system completely on it's side? I probably should've asked first and saved myself like $35 on my bleed setup but it is a pretty sweet idea I borrowed from here I have to admit.


I used a 12" acrylic riser to a valve then a 6" riser to a funnel.....(funnel missing from pic)..... also a bleed valve on res. I used a AC/DC adapter to power up the pump only.

1. I loosened the top plug on the res to let air out and filled the funnel and filled about 1.7 liters
2. Filled 90% of the loop volume \
3. Closed both valves, ran pump....res dropped.
4. Opened riser valve, filled tube and funnel; cracked res valve to allow air to escape shutting valve just before water level in riser tube dropped below bottom of riser
5. Rinse and repeats step 4 cupla times.

When I filled the loop with DW, I had to tilt case a bit to get air bubble outta CPU block .... when refilled with Mayhems pastel mix, this step wasn't required. Also small bubbles remained in system for a few days w/ DW ... when refilled w/ Mayhems mix, took maybe an hour. During 1st 48 hours, I ran w/ riser in place and tube filled with liquid to just below shut off valve and case tilted with book under back end to make bleed point highest point. With DW, level dropped abit as air replaced liquid in tune..... with the Mayhems, it hardly dropped. Remainder of fluid was then bled out into res as in step 4.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *owcraftsman*
> 
> No I have 8x F140SP and thought you had the same. Not sure what AC140/s or TC120/s are? For me, 5x are the LED version all connected to the controller +12v aux. power. 6x are attached to UT60 420mm top mounted radiator and I have removed the micro filter since the 6x rad fans exhaust. Currently I do not use the MSI fan software and use the default curve of the F1.5 bios on a MSI Z87 G45 Gamer which I see no need to make adjustments to. My pump is a D5 vario running static high speed or avg 4780 rpm which indicates max flow rate for my loop.


I have 10 fans but only 5 on the rads.... 3 top rad, 2 bottom rad, 2 front case, 2 side case, 1 rear case.

AC140 - Alphacool 140mm wide rad .... other designation was for other brand 120 you have

I found BIOS control inadequate ...., Fan Xpert provided much better and accurate control

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pierre3400*
> 
> Thank you, now to find them in Europe, and in stock!
> 
> I should be getting enough cooling from 1x 480 Monsta in push/pull and 1x 420 XT45 in push/pull??
> 
> Should i consider the 240 on the side with push/pull or would just be a waist of money?


quote name="owcraftsman" url="/t/1418637/phanteks-enthoo-primo-owners-club/2290#post_21506595"]

I have twin 780s OC'd 25% and a 4700k at 4.6 .... with a XT45-420 + UT60-280, I have a delta T of 8.4C at 1200 rpm under Furmark in push only with filters removed.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> Just got in two more phanteks fans. Got the ones with the LED's... Just wanted to chime in and say how awesome these are. Absolutely love the quality of every aspect of them. I know it's been mentioned before, but they have rubber on the edges where the included case fans do not. Doesn't make any difference to me, I still like them.


Only issue is if ya mix the two together....results in wobbly rad mount as pads add 2mm of thickness. Ya can get pads from Phanteks.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anarchy2703*
> 
> Hi guys,
> 
> I have decided to build my rig and then watercool it straight away. I will be cooling a 4670k and an Asus 780. I plan to add another 780 later down the line. My focus right now is silence as I only game at 1080p and will get a 1600p monitor soon. My question is, do you think a 60mm 420 rad and a 60mm 280 rad will sufficiently cool that cpu and eventually two 780s?


Check my sig









Enthoo case with XT45-420 on top - UT60-280 on bottom w/ two 780's OC'd 25+% and 4770k at 4.6 Ghz .... at full speed of phanteks fans, have 8.4C delta T .... COU temp under RoG RealBench is 74C....GPU temps under Furmark are 39C .... I turn down fans and run 450 - 862 for daily usage.

And yes, 420 fits on top suggest pull forward and inch so ya can access the top rad ports on ST45 and 280 does fit in bottom ...at least alphacool does....420 has more cooling / surface area than a 480 and gives ya access to those ports for filling / bleeding...Alphacool's outperform the competition according to martins testing at 1000-2200 rpmand also have screw protector plate and all copper construction.

UT60 on top **may** result in fit issues if have tall heatsinks or ya want access to ya 8 pin EPS cable.

The Phanteks fans are **top dog** outperforming the GTs , SP120s and AF120s

http://www.silentpcreview.com/article1345-page7.html

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EliteReplay*
> 
> is it possible to put a Alphacool UT60 on the top with Push/Pull and 140mm fans?


Most likely, see above tho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EliteReplay*
> 
> this is too tight... would the alphacool XT45 45MM would fit better right?


Look at it this way ....the XT45-420 gives ya 250 watts of cooling with Phanteks fans, the UT60-420 gives ya 256..... for me the hassle of getting to my 8 pin EPS plug and the MPCIE module on the MV6 wasn't worth 6 watts ..... it did miss the MoBo heat sink by 2mm tho.


----------



## Anarchy2703

Another thing guys- what type of metal do you think the fan grill on the front of the case is? I assume steel. I'd like to paint it red. What type of primer should I use and then what paint. Or should I just take it to a spray shop and get it done properly? I assume some sort of self etching primer is needed?


----------



## Hereisphilly

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anarchy2703*
> 
> Another thing guys- what type of metal do you think the fan grill on the front of the case is? I assume steel. I'd like to paint it red. What type of primer should I use and then what paint. Or should I just take it to a spray shop and get it done properly? I assume some sort of self etching primer is needed?


I actually think its aluminium, as some of the metal is exposed in the brushed grains, and steel would rust like crazy


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Yeah it's brushed aluminum, anodized black.
No idea what the best way to go about painting it would be.
You could strip the anodizing and anodize it yourself another color, or find a shop to do it.


----------



## doyll

jassilamba had his apart and changed the front center area for a grill.
ehume took his grill out.


----------



## owcraftsman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hereisphilly*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Anarchy2703*
> 
> Another thing guys- what type of metal do you think the fan grill on the front of the case is? I assume steel. I'd like to paint it red. What type of primer should I use and then what paint. Or should I just take it to a spray shop and get it done properly? I assume some sort of self etching primer is needed?
> 
> 
> 
> I actually think its aluminium, as some of the metal is exposed in the brushed grains, and steel would rust like crazy
Click to expand...

Unless I don't understand your question it's steel. To be clear The solid surface and face plate center is brushed aluminum but the grill or perforated metal that allows the front panel to breath is steel. I confirmed this with a magnet test. I assume you'd want to paint the perforated steel red for an accent color to the black facade which would look quit nice correct me if I'm wrong. If I were doing it I wouldn't use a primer and would buy some rustoleum spray paint. Prep the surface by making sure it free of any oil dust dirt etc. I like using spray degreaser commonly found at auto parts stores for metal prep. Rinse and wipe clean when finished then allow to completely dry before painting. Even this may be overkill but hey it's your call. Only if painted metal is rusted which would require sanding to prep it and in turn exposes bare metal would you need a primer. Some peeps aren't good with a spray can but if you are even a little inclined a bit of practice on a scrap piece should give you the confidence to get the job done. Most common mistakes are over spray which causes drips. Best advice spray lightly several coats allowing each coat to dry before proceeding to the next. Spray at all angles and directions both sides. At first it will be uneven by the third coat it will be looking sweet. Otherwise it never hurts to have a professional do it. GL


----------



## Anarchy2703

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *owcraftsman*
> 
> Unless I don't understand your question it's steel. To be clear The solid surface and face plate center is brushed aluminum but the grill or perforated metal that allows the front panel to breath is steel. I confirmed this with a magnet test. I assume you'd want to paint the perforated steel red for an accent color to the black facade which would look quit nice correct me if I'm wrong. If I were doing it I wouldn't use a primer and would buy some rustoleum spray paint. Prep the surface by making sure it free of any oil dust dirt etc. I like using spray degreaser commonly found at auto parts stores for metal prep. Rinse and wipe clean when finished then allow to completely dry before painting. Even this may be overkill but hey it's your call. Only if painted metal is rusted which would require sanding to prep it and in turn exposes bare metal would you need a primer. Some peeps aren't good with a spray can but if you are even a little inclined a bit of practice on a scrap piece should give you the confidence to get the job done. Most common mistakes are over spray which causes drips. Best advice spray lightly several coats allowing each coat to dry before proceeding to the next. Spray at all angles and directions both sides. At first it will be uneven by the third coat it will be looking sweet. Otherwise it never hurts to have a professional do it. GL


Yes. I mean the bit behind the aluminium. I'll just get a quote from a professional and see if I can haggle him down a bit


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anarchy2703*
> 
> Yes. I mean the bit behind the aluminium. I'll just get a quote from a professional and see if I can haggle him down a bit


Really it's not hard to do.
Practice spraying on something else to get the feel of spraying. Always start moving before you start spraying. Alwasy spray is nice smooth passes.
Scuff it with scotch-brite, wipe it with pure alcohol, set it up on something and start spraying on light coats. Change the angle/side you spray from each coat.
Here's a two part tutorial


----------



## rpjkw11

Off current topic: Techpowerup is reporting Phanteks is launching a WHITE Enthoo Primo!

All I can say is Noooooooooooo! I just bought a Primo three months ago and I really wanted white. Gonna have bite this bullet, too, I guess.


----------



## chrisnyc75

Phanteks confirmed on their facebook page some months back that there was definitely a white Enthoo Primo in the works. They haven't commented since, though.


----------



## rpjkw11

I didn't want to wait for who knew how long so I opted for the original black. I'm not sorry at all, but there will definitely be two EPs around here soon.


----------



## Hereisphilly

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rpjkw11*
> 
> Off current topic: Techpowerup is reporting Phanteks is launching a WHITE Enthoo Primo!
> 
> All I can say is Noooooooooooo! I just bought a Primo three months ago and I really wanted white. Gonna have bite this bullet, too, I guess.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chrisnyc75*
> 
> Phanteks confirmed on their facebook page some months back that there was definitely a white Enthoo Primo in the works. They haven't commented since, though.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rpjkw11*
> 
> I didn't want to wait for who knew how long so I opted for the original black. I'm not sorry at all, but there will definitely be two EPs around here soon.


Oh. My. Word.
This looks so so so good!
http://www.overclockers.co.uk/LP/phanteks-enthoo-white.php?campaign=social/facebook/phanteks-enthoo-white


----------



## owcraftsman

Looks awesome


----------



## Hereisphilly

@Doyll, as you are the OP, and the number of people with the Enthoo is growing, do you think it would be a good idea to get a forum sig and a public list/pics going of all the people who have the case?


----------



## owcraftsman

Submitted a support request form to Phanteks moments ago regarding the milky/cloudy side panel glass. Wish me LUCK!


----------



## bond32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *owcraftsman*
> 
> Submitted a support request form to Phanteks moments ago regarding the milky/cloudy side panel glass. Wish me LUCK!


What's your issue? Cause mine is pretty cloudy too, wasn't sure if that was by design or not. Can't really see inside...


----------



## owcraftsman

If you scroll back a bit you can see a few pics of my build. Basically the glass is cloudy milky hazy after removing protective cover. The Glass was cleaned both sides and has no visible or touch signs of residue either from protective cover glue or oil finger prints etc. The best way I can describe it is, it's as if there is still a protective cover on the glass. It just seems to be a very low quality glass or my glass is a defective batch of glass. I've not heard or read about this issue being wide spread so I have to believe it's the latter. Most folks here must have better looking glass than mine or they'd be complaining too. I've had and worked with many case with side panel glass. So I know what to expect and this stuff has got to go one way or the other. What I have is just not right.

I've also requested an additional PWM Hub in the same request form. If you look at your hub that comes with the case note there is an additional mount directly below the existing one. It's my desire to add one to control the 6x AP-14's on the monsta 360 in the bottom of the case like the top 420 is now controlled. Since my motherboard has two CPU 4pin headers this should work quit nicely.


----------



## Roxycon

Phanteks enthoo luxe is announced for those of us who thinks the primo is a tad too big


----------



## bond32

Mine is like that too. Perhaps I should submit a form... I asked a while back about getting a second hub, they sent the generic " we have no information at this time" crap. I power 8 AP-15's on my bottom rad with an NZXT hub, but would like the phanteks like you.


----------



## krisz9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roxycon*
> 
> Phanteks enthoo luxe is announced for those of us who thinks the primo is a tad too big


video wont load, did they take it down?


----------



## Roxycon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *krisz9*
> 
> video wont load, did they take it down?


Try this link instead


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *krisz9*
> 
> video wont load, did they take it down?


Looks like the link Roxycon used is broken ...




Personally I wish they would have made a bigger version instead. Oh wells.


----------



## Roxycon

If they made a bigger one i would have buyers regret on the primo so im cool with the luxe


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Is there any place yet to find out more info about the new Primo mini-me?

Or just that video so far?

My google-fu fails me.


----------



## Roxycon

Youtube and facebook







movie is the only info till now


----------



## Hereisphilly

I remember seeing a covered case called the luxe in a video of the enthoo at computex when it was launched, nice to see phanteks aren't resting and continuing the development!

I think the luxe has got to be one of the best standard size cases around now, (i don't class our monster primo as standard).

They seem to have taken all the good bits from our case, pump mount, cable management, res attachment, triple top and dual front rad, pwm hub, awesome fans, clean design, ssd mounts, and condensed it down to 'normal size'!


----------



## xCloudyHorizon

I was considering the 750D, but the Luxe is going to make this a hard decision.


----------



## chrisnyc75

Interesting. So, it's basically a baby Enthoo Primo with RGB color control.

I'm still happy with my monster-sized Enthoo.... but I sure do wish they'd thought of that RGB LED color control in the beginning! lol

I think the size of the Enthoo Primo makes it a case that really "isn't for everybody"... but once they get wind of this Enthoo Luxe, I think a LOT of people are going to start taking a serious look at Phanteks as a player in the chassis market.


----------



## krisz9

thanks for the link!

looks pretty similar, just re-organized pretty much.

Def. prefer the bigger sibling though. Will be getting this case in a couple months.


----------



## Roxycon

What the primo had from level 10 the luxe have taken from the tj07, looks like it from the vid at least


----------



## doyll

Video of Enthoo Luxe is all computer generated.









Saw a few pics of it last June so been in the pipe for awhile now.


----------



## bond32

Looks good. If it had the ability to fit a 480 then I would be beating myself up right now but I'll take my Primo with a 480 and a 420


----------



## Pierre3400

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roxycon*
> 
> If they made a bigger one i would have buyers regret on the primo so im cool with the luxe


I'd still be cool with the Primo, its errrmmm.... big enough for me







Granted space for 60mm p/p would have been nice, but 45 is ok.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pierre3400*
> 
> I'd still be cool with the Primo, its errrmmm.... big enough for me
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Granted space for 60mm p/p would have been nice, but 45 is ok.


Unless you have something on the top of your mobo taller than 54mm (taller-than-normal ram, heatsinks, etc) that would get in the way, you can fit an 80mm thick monsta 120mm-series rad (240, 360, 480) up top in push-pull in the Enthoo Primo.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hereisphilly*
> 
> @Doyll, as you are the OP, and the number of people with the Enthoo is growing, do you think it would be a good idea to get a forum sig and a public list/pics going of all the people who have the case?


Sounds like a good idea.








Get OCN to make forum "Official" Phanteks Enthoo Primo and input a list of owners. Might need some help with it.


----------



## Hereisphilly

If memory serves me correctly, this is how Corsair stared their foray into cases, and we all know well they have done on the back of that!

Massive 800D 1st, get all the enthusiasts salivating, then follow up with a 600T at a smaller size, lower price point & more accessible to everyone!


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *owcraftsman*
> 
> If you scroll back a bit you can see a few pics of my build. Basically the glass is cloudy milky hazy after removing protective cover. The Glass was cleaned both sides and has no visible or touch signs of residue either from protective cover glue or oil finger prints etc. The best way I can describe it is, it's as if there is still a protective cover on the glass. It just seems to be a very low quality glass or my glass is a defective batch of glass. I've not heard or read about this issue being wide spread so I have to believe it's the latter. Most folks here must have better looking glass than mine or they'd be complaining too. I've had and worked with many case with side panel glass. So I know what to expect and this stuff has got to go one way or the other. What I have is just not right.
> 
> I've also requested an additional PWM Hub in the same request form. If you look at your hub that comes with the case note there is an additional mount directly below the existing one. It's my desire to add one to control the 6x AP-14's on the monsta 360 in the bottom of the case like the top 420 is now controlled. Since my motherboard has two CPU 4pin headers this should work quit nicely.


That is how it was first presented to reviewers ..... If I can get my hands ona second one, it will be for case fans.....if I geta 3rd, i will separate the rad controls.



http://www.kitguru.net/components/cases/peter/computex-phanteks-exposes-the-enthoo-luxe-to-kitguru/


----------



## OutlawII

U guys see the white Enthoo????







OOPS just went back a few pages i guess u guys beat me to it LOOL


----------



## chrisnyc75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OutlawII*
> 
> U guys see the white Enthoo????
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> OOPS just went back a few pages i guess u guys beat me to it LOOL


No worries -- I'll take a day when there's so much new stuff out there we can't keep up with it all over a slow news day ANY DAY.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hereisphilly*
> 
> I remember seeing a covered case called the luxe in a video of the enthoo at computex when it was launched, nice to see phanteks aren't resting and continuing the development!
> 
> I think the luxe has got to be one of the best standard size cases around now, (i don't class our monster primo as standard).
> 
> They seem to have taken all the good bits from our case, pump mount, cable management, res attachment, triple top and dual front rad, pwm hub, awesome fans, clean design, ssd mounts, and condensed it down to 'normal size'!


I first saw the Primo advertised as the Luxe

http://www.frostytech.com/permalink.cfm?NewsID=107653


----------



## Hereisphilly

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Sounds like a good idea.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Get OCN to make forum "Official" Phanteks Enthoo Primo and input a list of owners. Might need some help with it.


No worries, I would be more than happy to maintain a list of owners builds with a picture or something if you would like?
Im afraid ive got no idea how you would go about getting OCN to get this thread "Official" though.


----------



## Pierre3400

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Unless you have something on the top of your mobo taller than 54mm (taller-than-normal ram, heatsinks, etc) that would get in the way, you can fit an 80mm thick monsta 120mm-series rad (240, 360, 480) up top in push-pull in the Enthoo Primo.


I have an Asus Maximus VI Formula, and i dont want to cover it up, im good with XT45







Got 480 monsta in the basement


----------



## Liqu1dShadow

Be nice if they left a cut out between the main compartment and the windo so we don't have to hack the hase, it's a waste of space and obvious people will do somthing with it. Would have made my life easier


----------



## OutlawII

Has anyone replaced the side window with a clear one instead of the factory smoked?


----------



## Liqu1dShadow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OutlawII*
> 
> Has anyone replaced the side window with a clear one instead of the factory smoked?


No but looking out for one, I quite like the effect it gives though, (see profile pic)


----------



## OutlawII

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Liqu1dShadow*
> 
> No but looking out for one, I quite like the effect it gives though, (see profile pic)


Maybe i just need moar lights!!


----------



## Liqu1dShadow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OutlawII*
> 
> Maybe i just need moar lights!!


I have 3 strips, 2 in the main comp, 60cm each and a 30 cm in the mini window, full RGB so I can pick my colours









I like the darkening effect though as it gives the equipment more of an edge to it, rather than washed out

Got a full build log here if you haven't seen, some better shots of it
http://www.overclock.net/t/1453740/build-log-red-dwarf-ii-enthoo-primo-photo-heavy/60#post_21531146


----------



## Roxycon

they show off the three new cases


----------



## rpjkw11

I really like the Luxe, but nothing equals the Primo. Especially in that fabulous white livery, which I will order soon.


----------



## owcraftsman

Noticed this after following the links posted above.

*KitGuru's choice for Best Chassis of the Year 2013 goes to the Phanteks Enthoo Primo.*


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pierre3400*
> 
> I have an Asus Maximus VI Formula, and i dont want to cover it up, im good with XT45
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Got 480 monsta in the basement


A Ut60 makes it in by 2mm on the M6F .... just misses the heat sink ... however, with a UT60 in there you'd have a helluva time getting to ya 8 pin EPS plug or ya MPCIA Combo II thingie


----------



## 47 Knucklehead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rpjkw11*
> 
> Off current topic: Techpowerup is reporting Phanteks is launching a WHITE Enthoo Primo!
> 
> All I can say is Noooooooooooo! I just bought a Primo three months ago and I really wanted white. Gonna have bite this bullet, too, I guess.


White would have been nice ...

But there are always ways to make the Phantek Enthoo Primo look just how you want it to.











Now to just transfer all the measurements from the template and start making the acrylic inserts for the case. Not sure if I'm going to go with the same orange as the radiator ... or MDPC Titanium Grey ... for the insert color.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> A Ut60 makes it in by 2mm on the M6F .... just misses the heat sink ... however, with a UT60 in there you'd have a helluva time getting to ya 8 pin EPS plug or ya MPCIA Combo II thingie


If you're going to mention your clearance issues, it should probably be made clear that you are talking about a 140mm series rad (280, 420).

There's plenty of room for most motherboard / ram combinations for a UT60 or even a monsta 120mm series rad (240, 360, 480) up top.

The heatsinks on my RIVBE are 40mm, and G.Skill Ripjaws are 41mm tall, so if I wanted to put a 480 monsta up top in push-pull it would fit with zero issues & more than 10mm clearance on everything.

That said, a 480 monsta in push-pull up top would have cost me the top two 5.25" drive bays and it wouldn't have left enough room to fit my Photon 270 / D5 pump res between it and the monsta in the bottom, so I didn't go that thick up top myself, but it would be an easy fit otherwise.


----------



## Hereisphilly

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roxycon*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> they show off the three new cases


Pro looks nice too! And is that a 200mm fan in the front? Looks far too big to be a 140mm


----------



## Maldark

Hey guys! I've just received my Enthoo and I'm unpacking it as we speak (or w/e), but when I got the box, there was something rolling around inside. When I opened it up there was a single screw outside the case. Any ideas where it may have come from? All screws are in the back as well as the PCI lane things. It looks like this: 

Thanks : )


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roxycon*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> they show off the three new cases


Nice! Thanks!
Now we know why Phanteks support and fallen off. They are concentrating on new cases instead.







Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Maldark*
> 
> Hey guys! I've just received my Enthoo and I'm unpacking it as we speak (or w/e), but when I got the box, there was something rolling around inside. When I opened it up there was a single screw outside the case. Any ideas where it may have come from? All screws are in the back as well as the PCI lane things. It looks like this:
> Thanks : )


Congrats on new case!








That thumb screw could be from any of a number of places.

2x on each side panel
4x on Reservoir bracket
HDD cages
Pump mounting bracket
and many other places
You will find a plastic case with more of them along with other screws. (upper left)


----------



## Maldark

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Nice! Thanks!
> Now we know why Phanteks support and fallen off. They are concentrating on new cases instead.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Congrats on new case!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That thumb screw could be from any of a number of places.
> 
> 2x on each side panel
> 4x on Reservoir bracket
> HDD cages
> Pump mounting bracket
> and many other places
> You will find a plastic case with more of them along with other screws. (upper left)


Just found out it was the HDD cage : )

Thanks


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> If you're going to mention your clearance issues, it should probably be made clear that you are talking about a 140mm series rad (280, 420).
> 
> There's plenty of room for most motherboard / ram combinations for a UT60 or even a monsta 120mm series rad (240, 360, 480) up top.
> 
> The heatsinks on my RIVBE are 40mm, and G.Skill Ripjaws are 41mm tall, so if I wanted to put a 480 monsta up top in push-pull it would fit with zero issues & more than 10mm clearance on everything.
> 
> That said, a 480 monsta in push-pull up top would have cost me the top two 5.25" drive bays and it wouldn't have left enough room to fit my Photon 270 / D5 pump res between it and the monsta in the bottom, so I didn't go that thick up top myself, but it would be an easy fit otherwise.


This may be true on the RIVEBE but I don't see the relevance in the context of the M6F specific post. I noted three but there are actually six issues / potential issues with an M6F and any width UT60 in P/P



1. The context of the poster's remark was visual ..... "not wanting to cover up the pretty M6F MoBo".... the only relevant dimension "visually" is thickness.... you may be able to fit the thicker rad in there but you won't be able to "see" anything behind it. I'm measuring about 29 mm from the bottom of the XT45 to the Heat Sink ... with the 27mm fan, it "misses" blocking the view of the Top of the MoBo by 2mm. Add the 15mm and the top 13mm of the MoBo is blocked.

2. Forgot to mention this one, but the M6F is equipped with a diagnostic digital LCD that displays the error or Q-Codes. The bottom of this display is 1.5" (38mm) below my XT45..... add the pull fan (27mm) and the extra thickness of the UT60 and you are at 42mm. So access to a key feature is taken from you with a UT60 .... yes it fits, both 140mm and 120mm will fit, but again "visually, you will not be able to "see" the diagnostic panel. Start button gets difficult perhaps but shud be easy enough to press if ya gotta.

3. The plug for the EPS cable is as inaccessible with the 120mm width rads as it is with the 140mm. Look at the pic above which shows the cable clearing the rad but once ya put the fans on, how would you access the plug at the end of it. The extra 10mm you get from using a smaller rad is not enough for you to slip a hand behind it and remove / replace the EPS cable plug.

4. If when ya built it ya decided ya didn't need wireless ..... or if after ya built it, ya found out that having both wireless and wired "active" at the same time doesn't work and ya want to take it out, you can''t get ya hand in there to install / uninstall the unit.

5. It's obvious that the RAM fits but if ya wanted to re-seat, by using the levers, it's tough access when in the up position..... of course you can press in place and whereas I always prefer to do both tro minimize warping, the N6F backplate should help here.

6. I think it will fit once done but installing / uninstalling ya fittings / tubing for the MoBo VRM block becomes difficult with the thicker rad.


----------



## lootbag

I have a quick question, can I retain the bottom drive cage by moving it closer to the front fans and use a 360 radiator in the bottom of the case?


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> This may be true on the RIVEBE but I don't see the relevance in the context of the M6F specific post. I noted three but there are actually six issues / potential issues with an M6F and any width UT60 in P/P
> 
> 
> 
> 1. The context of the poster's remark was visual ..... "not wanting to cover up the pretty M6F MoBo".... the only relevant dimension "visually" is thickness.... you may be able to fit the thicker rad in there but you won't be able to "see" anything behind it. I'm measuring about 29 mm from the bottom of the XT45 to the Heat Sink ... with the 27mm fan, it "misses" blocking the view of the Top of the MoBo by 2mm. Add the 15mm and the top 13mm of the MoBo is blocked.
> 
> 2. Forgot to mention this one, but the M6F is equipped with a diagnostic digital LCD that displays the error or Q-Codes. The bottom of this display is 1.5" (38mm) below my XT45..... add the pull fan (27mm) and the extra thickness of the UT60 and you are at 42mm. So access to a key feature is taken from you with a UT60 .... yes it fits, both 140mm and 120mm will fit, but again "visually, you will not be able to "see" the diagnostic panel. Start button gets difficult perhaps but shud be easy enough to press if ya gotta.
> 
> 3. The plug for the EPS cable is as inaccessible with the 120mm width rads as it is with the 140mm. Look at the pic above which shows the cable clearing the rad but once ya put the fans on, how would you access the plug at the end of it. The extra 10mm you get from using a smaller rad is not enough for you to slip a hand behind it and remove / replace the EPS cable plug.
> 
> 4. If when ya built it ya decided ya didn't need wireless ..... or if after ya built it, ya found out that having both wireless and wired "active" at the same time doesn't work and ya want to take it out, you can''t get ya hand in there to install / uninstall the unit.
> 
> 5. It's obvious that the RAM fits but if ya wanted to re-seat, by using the levers, it's tough access when in the up position..... of course you can press in place and whereas I always prefer to do both tro minimize warping, the N6F backplate should help here.
> 
> 6. I think it will fit once done but installing / uninstalling ya fittings / tubing for the MoBo VRM block becomes difficult with the thicker rad
> 
> 
> .


Yes, any time you want to have an overhanging rad installation you will be covering up the top of the board, so by all means install your mobo & plug in the cables and the ram and such first, and if you need to get to those things then you might well even have to remove the rad first. None of that is a big deal imho if you want to put in a thicker rad.

But it is a big deal imho to keep pointing out how tight it was by some-such specific milimeters, and even showing pictures of it sometimes, and every time it seems you fail to mention it's a 140-series rad you are talking about. I know this is the third time at least I've felt compelled afterward to point that out, not for any one poster or any specific mobo, but for everyone else coming here looking for a source of information as to what fits or not. I have to believe at this point you are trying to be intentionally misleading whenever you bring it up.


----------



## Maldark

Hey guys I'm just looking through my new case that arrived today, and I noticed that the front-fan-filter thing (the one made from aluminum & metal that comes off), only locks with one of the two locking mechanisms. Is this how it is supposed to be or are yours different?

I've recorded this video trying to illustrate the issue: 




Thanks : )


----------



## OutlawII

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Maldark*
> 
> Hey guys I'm just looking through my new case that arrived today, and I noticed that the front-fan-filter thing (the one made from aluminum & metal that comes off), only locks with one of the two locking mechanisms. Is this how it is supposed to be or are yours different?
> 
> I've recorded this video trying to illustrate the issue:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks : )


Mine is the same


----------



## Maldark

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OutlawII*
> 
> Mine is the same


Glad to hear that, didn't want to have to RMA it already









Thank you : )

Oh and also, apparently I received a rev 2 I think? The dust filter is not with screws anymore : )


----------



## The Redtide

Howdy y'all. My Primo will be arriving in a few days. I had a new NZXT Switch 810, which is great case, but the Primo has so much more. The heart of the build is a Asus Maximus VI Formula, with 16GB of G.Skill 2166, a 4770k and a pair of 780s (or maybe the next gen, I am not in a hurry). I will be using the CrossChill loop. I would like to use the Alphacool NexXxoS XT45 420 up top in a push/pull. Will there be any issue the push fans and the VRM mosfet block of this mobo?


----------



## owcraftsman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The Redtide*
> 
> Howdy y'all. My Primo will be arriving in a few days. I had a new NZXT Switch 810, which is great case, but the Primo has so much more. The heart of the build is a Asus Maximus VI Formula, with 16GB of G.Skill 2166, a 4770k and a pair of 780s (or maybe the next gen, I am not in a hurry). I will be using the CrossChill loop. I would like to use the Alphacool NexXxoS XT45 420 up top in a push/pull. Will there be any issue the push fans and the VRM mosfet block of this mobo?


Please scroll back and read that question has been answered so many times it hurts to see it asked again. Yes it works No issues anything over 45mm rads do becomes an issue for some.


----------



## flaminghomer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Liqu1dShadow*
> 
> I have 3 strips, 2 in the main comp, 60cm each and a 30 cm in the mini window, full RGB so I can pick my colours
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I like the darkening effect though as it gives the equipment more of an edge to it, rather than washed out
> 
> Got a full build log here if you haven't seen, some better shots of it
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1453740/build-log-red-dwarf-ii-enthoo-primo-photo-heavy/60#post_21531146


Where exactly did you put the LED strips?


----------



## The Redtide

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *owcraftsman*
> 
> Please scroll back and read that question has been answered so many times it hurts to see it asked again. Yes it works No issues anything over 45mm rads do becomes an issue for some.


Musta missed it reference to this specific mobo. The OEM mosfet waterblock on this mobo is higher than most aftermarket mosfet waterblocks, thus my query. I do truly appreciate your enduring the pain once more.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Maldark*
> 
> Hey guys I'm just looking through my new case that arrived today, and I noticed that the front-fan-filter thing (the one made from aluminum & metal that comes off), only locks with one of the two locking mechanisms. Is this how it is supposed to be or are yours different?
> 
> I've recorded this video trying to illustrate the issue:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks : )


Contact Phanteks support and get a replacement latching mechanism sent. Had to get replacements for both of mine.

FWIW, I figured out the hard way that trying to remove the whole front panel of the case (by pulling at the bottom) without first removing the filter cover from it destroys those little push-click latches. When the front of the case pops free, the filter cover if you didn't remove it first will pop right out, and those latches get stripped out easily when the cover gets pulled out like that without being pushed in first.

Judging by how many others have also had to get replacement push-click latches, they either have done the same as me or I suspect the same type of damage to them also happens during shipping sometimes.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The Redtide*
> 
> Musta missed it reference to this specific mobo. The OEM mosfet waterblock on this mobo is higher than most aftermarket mosfet waterblocks, thus my query. I do truly appreciate your enduring the pain once more.


The FAQs listed in the first post of this topic covers it. A 45mm thick rad w/ push-pull fits with any / all motherboards since there's 70mm from top of mobo to the top of the case (45mm rad + 25mm fan = 70mm + other fan sits on top of case under the filter. There's also ~54mm of offset for 120mm-series rads (240, 360, 480), so unless you have something taller than 54mm at the top on your board (ram / heatsinks), a 60mm thick rad in push-pull would overhang the board just 15mm and a monsta would overhang 40mm. Similarly, 140mm-series rads have 44mm of offset.


----------



## Hereisphilly

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lootbag*
> 
> I have a quick question, can I retain the bottom drive cage by moving it closer to the front fans and use a 360 radiator in the bottom of the case?


Yes there is no issue in doing that, go to about 0:45 in the video


----------



## Korayyy

Hey guys! Just decided to drop in since I received my Primo today. Unfortunately the top vent had all of the tabs broken off of it during shipping&#8230;







Have any of you had this happen? I'm going to try to contact Phanteks to see if I can get a replacement panel. Anyways, to the good part, here's what came in!

Broken panel during shipping.



Paxton loves to photo bomb my shots.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Yes, any time you want to have an overhanging rad installation you will be covering up the top of the board, so by all means install your mobo & plug in the cables and the ram and such first, and if you need to get to those things then you might well even have to remove the rad first. None of that is a big deal imho if you want to put in a thicker rad.
> 
> But it is a big deal imho to keep pointing out how tight it was by some-such specific milimeters, and even showing pictures of it sometimes, and every time it seems you fail to mention it's a 140-series rad you are talking about. I know this is the third time at least I've felt compelled afterward to point that out, not for any one poster or any specific mobo, but for everyone else coming here looking for a source of information as to what fits or not. I have to believe at this point you are trying to be intentionally misleading whenever you bring it up.


1. The 2mm clearance is vertical .... You're going to have to explain to me how rad width has anything to do with vertical clearance. And I have been *quite specific* as to what the issues are.

2. I have very clearly stated that access to the 8 pin plug and MPCIE thingie are the main issues..... I don't see how draining my loop , removing the tubing to CPU, red, and other connections, clipping all the wire zip ties an reinstalling and refilling the loop is not a big deal..... if I do that during working hours, I'm out $900. In measuring the distance, the tape measure grabbed a CPU fan pin..... that was a bear enough to get reinstalled with rigid tubing from the MoBo block in front of it and I don't have any fans in the way

3. The response was to an M6F user who wants to see his MoBo,,,,, so "any time you want to have an overhanging rad installation" does not fit the stated criteria.

4. Most often I make reference to Jesse's review and pics should make it plain enough for anyone the pics show a 120mm and a 140mm and what the differences are. I had it in there at one point but must lost in when my lappie spontaneously shut down....hadn't realized it but lappie charger was plugged into one of the outlets in the UPS that when ya **** down the desktop, it shuts down the slave outlets .... so battery dies , it just went dead and luckily when I returned forum had saved most of the message but apparently not all.
Quote:


> http://themodzoo.com/forum/index.php?/page/articles.html/_/reviews/cases/phanteks-enthoo-primo-full-tower-review-r67?pg=6
> 
> The radiator mount is offset, to help with spacing of a 60mm thick radiator in the roof. As you can see in this picture, my radiator is getting way too close to the motherboard heat sink. Installing fans on the inside is not going to be an option with the Evga x79 Dark motherboard. Please note the location of the white zip tie on the 8 pin CPU power cable, we will use it as reference point in the next picture.
> 
> For my build I ended up using a 360mm radiator in the ceiling, the Alphacool XT 45. As you can see I have enough space to mount fans on the inside, and have the XT 45 radiator in push pull configuration. You can see the amount of space available, if you use the white zip tie from the previous picture as an example.


5. Blocking view of a diagnostic panel is not a big deal .... it's a HUGE deal

So weighing all that against a whopping extra 6 watts (1.5 - 2.0 watts of cooling per fan mount) ?????? I can't see how anyone would think that over for more than 0.5 seconds.

There is an issue with a 420mm x 60mm rad which i do mention when specific to 140mm rads..... can't get in in place.....at least not w/o disassembling a good part of the case.

Also, regarding ya drawing .... if ya buying any new Phanteks fans, they gonna be 27mm thick.


----------



## chrisnyc75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Korayyy*
> 
> Hey guys! Just decided to drop in since I received my Primo today. Unfortunately the top vent had all of the tabs broken off of it during shipping&#8230;
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Have any of you had this happen? I'm going to try to contact Phanteks to see if I can get a replacement panel. Anyways, to the good part, here's what came in!
> 
> Broken panel during shipping.


Yeah, that has happened to several people during shipping. Just call up Phanteks support, they'll hook you right up with replacements.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Maldark*
> 
> Hey guys I'm just looking through my new case that arrived today, and I noticed that the front-fan-filter thing (the one made from aluminum & metal that comes off), only locks with one of the two locking mechanisms. Is this how it is supposed to be or are yours different?
> 
> I've recorded this video trying to illustrate the issue:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks : )


I broke mine somehow or at least ince removed I couldn't get it back on...... and Phanteks sent two new ones. They were a bear to get back on.... I had to remove the front panel and squeeze from both sides to get them to click in.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> 1. The 2mm clearance is vertical .... You're going to have to explain to me how rad width has anything to do with vertical clearance. And I have been *quite specific* as to what the issues are.


2mm by itself isn't much, but the 10mm less of offset room your 140-series rad has definitely compounds your issues being able to reach things on top of the board like the 8-pin plug. It's a 3 dimensional issue, and whenever you bring it up you should point out you are dealing with a 140-series rad so no one is confused about what you are talking about and why the clearances are as tight as they are. If you can point out it's a 'UT-60', then you can mention it's a 420 UT-60. That's all I was saying.
Quote:


> 2. I have very clearly stated that access to the 8 pin plug and MPCIE thingie are the main issues..... I don't see how draining my loop , removing the tubing to CPU, red, and other connections, clipping all the wire zip ties an reinstalling and refilling the loop is not a big deal..... if I do that during working hours, I'm out $900. In measuring the distance, the tape measure grabbed a CPU fan pin..... that was a bear enough to get reinstalled with rigid tubing from the MoBo block in front of it and I don't have any fans in the way


If you just pull the fan off of your rad (even a 60mm thick rad) you should have plenty of room to get to an 8-pin or that MPCIE thingie. No? I suspect I could plug and unplug the 8-pin on any motherboard with a 60mm thick 120-series rad installed in the top with the fan on it, and I'm all but certain I could with the fan removed. If not you must have some extremely fat fingers, but even then I still wouldn't think that draining a loop and removing a rad to be able to make some change in a rig is a big deal if it's not something I'd have to do very often. If that's what it takes to make something fit that I wanted in there, then it's nothing I would whine about.
Quote:


> 5. Blocking view of a diagnostic panel is not a big deal .... it's a HUGE deal


Hyperbolic much? With a 120-series rad's 54mm of offset the 15mm that a 25mm fan would overhang the board when mounted to a 120-series 60mm thick rad would not block you from looking up at it from below and still being able to see the top of the mobo, including your precious diagnostic panel. With that amount of offset, the 15mm of overhang only obscures the top of the board if you're staring at it from straight on.

At a viewing distance of 3' (91.4 cm), for example, you'd only need to be looking up at the top of the motherboard from 10" (25.3 cm) below it (or only 5" below it from 18" out) to see the very top of the motherboard that's obscured 15mm by a fan on a 60mm rad w/ 54mm of offset.

Sooo, not a big deal at all.
Quote:


> Also, regarding ya drawing .... if ya buying any new Phanteks fans, they gonna be 27mm thick.


Um, the drawing is of a 120-series rad, so no 140mm Phanteks fans would apply to it in any way. The drawing clearly shows it's dimensional for a 25mm thick fan.


----------



## Liqu1dShadow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *flaminghomer*
> 
> Where exactly did you put the LED strips?


You can just see them in these pics


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> 2mm by itself isn't much, but the 10mm less of offset room your 140-series rad has definitely compounds your issues being able to reach things on top of the board like the 8-pin plug. It's a 3 dimensional issue, and whenever you bring it up you should point out you are dealing with a 140-series rad so no one is confused about what you are talking about and why the clearances are as tight as they are. If you can point out it's a 'UT-60', then you can mention it's a 420 UT-60. That's all I was saying.


No it's not a 3 dimensional issue. In this situation, we are talking about a case, MoBo and rad all of which are here in front of me. A UT60-480 still presents the same issues. Adding 10mm to a 1-2 mm dimension does not create access. Access to the 8 pin EPS plug is completely unaffected by the width of the rad....go back and look at the pic I posted... These are not spring loaded...ya don't push the latch and they pop out, they have to be forcefully wiggled free....to do that ya need a grip....to have a grip ya need opposable digits and to get them thru there ya need more than 11-12mm access..... ya also need a thumb whose joints bend backwards

To remove the plug from the connector I have to place my hands in a position to have "opposable digits" .... curling my fingers to use my "oppossable thumb my "man hand" is 11" in circumference touching my thumb and forefinger .... your asking me to squeeze that hand between two rigid tubes w/ press fit connections containing coolant and somehow get my fingers thru a 11 mm space, while making two 90 degree bends up and over teh HS to grip both sides of as connector with enough force to twist and extremely stiff sleeved bunch of wires it into a 180 degree bend and press it in place into a connector that I can not see, or press the release clip with enough force to get it in or out. It simply can not be done. My fingers alone are thicker than 11-12mm but if they could fit, how do I then use my thumb and finger opposite each other after squeezing both thru a 12mm space? It's the old "monkey with his hand caught in a jar" thing.... if the hand has a grip on something, it's not getting thru the neck of the jar....and here we have a have a jar with a 11-12 mm opening.

here's the pic I usually used previously when explaining problems with connector access.....doesn't get more obvious than that.


Quote:


> If you just pull the fan off of your rad (even a 60mm thick rad) you should have plenty of room to get to an 8-pin or that MPCIE thingie. No?


No. I am having an extremely hard time now with the 45mm rad ... getting it out isn't bad, getting it in is a bear as you have to twist a very bend resistant cable into a 180 and plug it into a connector that your visual access to is completely blocked by the rad above and your hand. I can't place my hand to the left as I normally would and get a view from the right as there's vertical acrylic tube in the way. Also the current fan wires are all laying and zip tied together along the floor / wall joint of the top chamber.....getting the screws out means the fan would still be hanging in the way as the wire zip ties would have to be cut and the top fans removed to get at the wires.

So you have the rigid tubes in the way coming down from the rad....and the 8 pin is blocked on 2 sides by the heat sink and on the top by the rad ... I have "man hands"....I think I might be able to get a finger in there to press the latch down but it would be hard to grip anything and pull it out with the tubing in the way. look at my pic .... Look at Jesse's pic where its way more problematic.

As for the 54mm it's not applicable in this situation as there are many things your drawing does not account for .... when I place a business card on the 35mm tall heat sink, it is just about touching the radiator back side.....the difference in rad width accounts for just half of that.......putting a 120mm fan there I have just enuff room to squeeze in a piece of rigid tube (12mm) tho it moves the fan a hair.....my fingers are thicker than rigid tubing and even if I had woman or child fingers ..... once thru, they are flattened .... no opposable thumb and no way to manipulate anything. Simply not physically possible.
Quote:


> I suspect I could plug and unplug the 8-pin on any motherboard with a 60mm thick 120-series rad installed in the top with the fan on it, and I'm all but certain I could with the fan removed. If not you must have some extremely fat fingers, but even then I still wouldn't think that draining a loop and removing a rad to be able to make some change in a rig is a big deal if it's not something I'd have to do very often. If that's what it takes to make something fit that I wanted in there, then it's nothing I would whine about.


Why would you want to make something fit and deal with draining a loop and removing a rad when the alternative offers you no advantage whatsoever ? What;s the "motivation" for wanting it in there ? Cost savings ? Performance Advantage ? is it a "Mine's Bigger" thing ? More on those later .

Let's get off the M6F for a sec and I suspect, you will change ya mind looking at Jesse's pic. That is a 120mm Alphacool XT45 in the above pic..... now looking at that....

1. Imagine there's 15mm of extra rad there....
2. There a vertical runs of press fit rigid tube filled with coolant coming down from that rad port
3. Now finally add a 25mm fan .... don't forget the 3mm gasket if fans don't have anti vibration / ant noise pads ..... you can't even see the socket you are trying to access
4. There is another horizontal run of press fit rigid tube filled with coolant coming running horizontally just below ya fans

How in the world can you possibly access that wire ? Jesse had a 60mm 420 in there and took it out because the cable issue. His access was worse than mine It wasn't acceptable to Jesse, it wouldn't be acceptable to me and I gotta imagine it wouldn't be acceptable to most because ya get nothing in return. There simply is no advantage to using a UT60-480 over a XT45-420
Quote:


> Hyperbolic much? With a 120-series rad's 54mm of offset the 15mm that a 25mm fan would overhang the board when mounted to a 120-series 60mm thick rad would not block you from looking up at it from below and still being able to see the top of the mobo, including your precious diagnostic panel. With that amount of offset, the 15mm of overhang only obscures the top of the board if you're staring at it from straight on. At a viewing distance of 3' (91.4 cm), for example, you'd only need to be looking up at the top of the motherboard from 10" (25.3 cm) below it (or only 5" below it from 18" out) to see the very top of the motherboard that's obscured 15mm by a fan on a 60mm rad w/ 54mm of offset. .


I see no reason for the belittling adjectives but if ya spent some time examining pics, I think you'd see the obvious..... the 54mm is a red herring.... If I am "supposed to have 54mm" ...how can a 35mm tall heat sink be almost vertically in line with the rad ? Allocate the extra 10mm for the thinner 120mm rad and ya have 46-47mm.... where'd the 7-8mm go that we'd need to get to 54 ? So lets look at the pics in my post and my sig

- This MoBo has a steel backplate .... does that account for the missing 7 mm ? .... not sure, but I ain't taking it apart to measure....It certainly makes the MoBo thicker, but wud not have guessed it would be that big.
- This MoBo has thermal armor covering 95% of its surface..... it's 15mm high off the MoBo

So 40% of the 54mm is simply "gone" ....

Now we have a LCD set back inside a frame formed by the thermal armor.

_______| LCD
|
|
| Thermal Armor
|

<- Case Window

We started this conversation about not wanting block the view of a beautiful MoBo and your answer is that I can bend my body across my 42" deep desk and lay my head sideways on it so I can look up and try and read thru an opening between the fan and the lip of the thermal armor ? The LCD is set back, just like the EPS connector *into the thermal armor*. Changes the range of view a bit. And I don't want to "hide it" no more than the other features of the board. I also don't want to become a contortionist to look at a display. I also don't want to "hide" the heat sink"....it's one of the most attractive features of the board.

Once all the factors that demonstrate the inapplicability of the 54mm that have been relied upon as the basis of the argument are taken into consideration it should be fairly obvious that this does in fact present several inconveniences. Look at Jesse's pic, and pictures of the MoBo in question and you should see immediately that these suggestions are impractical in these instances. Trying to convince me that what I consider important is not valid because it might be unimportant to you doesn't work when your viewpoint is based upon incorrect assumptions. The limitations imposed by the armor, backplate, positioning of key features present a different condition that what you are looking at. But more importantly, the question should not be how significant is each inconvenience....it should be .... is there any benefit that offsets the inconvenience..... I can't find any.

These "alternative solutions" don't get past the simple question of why should anyone put up with any inconvenience at all given the fact that you get nothing in exchange. What is the ROI (return on investment for time and effort) for "making it fit ? What is the ROI that one get in return for these inconveniences ? We apparently agree that we can "make it fit" if we are willing to suffer said inconveniences. We differ apparently only on the magnitude and significance of these inconveniences. So let's review the pluses and minuses. Let's leave out different surface are solutions as that introduces a whole other variable.

The XT45-420 gives me about 250 watts of cooling (302 in push pull) for $85 for the rad and $90 worth of $15 fans
The UT60-480 gives me about 251 watts of cooling (303 in push pull) for $125 for the rad and $120 worth of $15 fans

So .....

1. I can get an extra watt of cooling if I don't mind draining my loop to remove the obstructing tubes, removing at least a fan, maybe a rad and some rigid tubing to remove / replace the EPS cable ..... is it worth it ? ..... I don't see it being worth 1 watt.

2. I can get an extra watt of cooling if I don't mind laying across my desk and peering up between the tubing, thermal armor and fans to view the diagnostic panel that right now I can no see from my chair by "looking a little to the left" ..... is it worth it ? ..... I don't see it being worth 1 watt.

3. I can get an extra watt of cooling if I don't mind draining my loop, removing at least a fan and some tubing, maybe a rad and some to remove, replace or add a M.2 (NGFF) module to the MPCIE Combo II..... is it worth it ? ..... I don't see it being worth 1 watt.

4. I can get an extra watt of cooling if I don't mind draining my loop, removing at least a fan, maybe a rad and some rigid tubing to connect the thermal sensors and connector for rear case fan at the far upper left hand corner of the board ..... I don't see it being worth 1 watt......currently looking at sources of thermisters for this very purpose.

5. I can get an extra watt of cooling if I don't mind removing at least a fan to use the MemOK button to get past any memory errors ..... haven't needed to use it yet, but if I do.... it sure adds a lot of effort to the procedure. .... is it worth it ? ..... I don't see it being worth 1 watt.

6. I can get an extra watt of cooling if I don't mind draining my loop, removing couple of fans, maybe the rad and some rigid tubing to use ProbeIt voltage terminals for diagnostic purposes..... is it worth it ? ..... I don't see it being worth 1 watt.

7. I can get an extra watt of cooling if I am willing to drop my goal of having the opportunity to view the "work of engineering art" Asus called the M6F .... one of the reasons I invested in this MoBo is it was beautiful to look at . I bought a case, and configured my tubing, eschewing bridges and anything else for an open layout so as not to hamper that view as much as possible ..... again resulting in additional expense. That's like spending extra for a building lot with a great view facing the ocean and then sticking up a basketball court with the backboard right in front of ya picture window..... is it worth it ? .... I don't see it being worth 1 watt.

8. I could get an extra watt of cooling if I give up a my top 5.25 drive bay which right now fits my Reeven Six Eyes in the top slot..... is it worth it ? ..... I don't see it being worth 1 watt.

9. I could get an extra watt of cooling for $70 .... so $0.58 a watt for the 1st 302 watts and then 121 times that for one extra watt ? No logic there. For an extra $70, I want another 121 watts !

So what we are left with is ..... a choice between a a 45mm rad with no inconveniences or spending an extra $70 for a 60mm rad that will give us 1 watt more cooling but "has issues"..... Some of them I'd consider significant to a substantial portion of users, some might be important only to myself..... But the question is why bother if there was only one even if it's a little one ?

If you get transferred to a satellite location temporarily and a coworker there responds to ya question about best routes..... if one route is trouble free, no stop and go , has no tolls, rarely has accidents, has lotta cops watching speed, few potholes and that once every 15 trips you going to have problem .... what's the point of arguing that you usually don't mind traffic, the tolls are small, you rarely drive over the speed limit, etc. ? Why put up with any of those minor annoyances for the sake of just "wanting to fit it in" ? You have no upside, several potential downsides even if they don't happen and the other route has has none.

Remember when we had a bunch of us wondering if a 780 would fit with the res bracket and res in place and bunch of us took measurements (I made my cardboard 780s rubber banded to an old mini-card) and cautiously indicated that it should fit .... but no one was willing to say for sure till based upon the mockup I went out and bought a 780, stripped the air cooler and took pics of it fitting.

When it comes to this question, similar to the above, I usually say "may have issues" with access but in this case I left out the "may" because I can speak from actual experience....I also only include issues that I thought would affect the majority of folksies. In my case, I had the whole thing built before i got to the point in the manual where it said "time to install the MPCIE thingie" and it took 2 people to get it in.....so that one sticks particularly "up front" in my mind

The exact same case, rad and MoBo that was asked about are sitting right here in front of me. Before I filled the loop or even finished the plumbing I put a fan on the bottom ...... I made a 42mm thick mockup and taped it up to the rad .... I tried to access the cable .... I didn't get it out but when trying I did pop off the tube from the rad to the CPU Water Block.


----------



## EnderUK

Had an attempt to get the 480mm g-changer in the bottom yesterday which was full of frustration and a couple of scratches I'll have to apply paint to. I was hoping go through the case bottom with 35mm m3 screws through rubber washers, then the fans and into the radiator. However the m3 required a washer and this then interfered with the dust filters. Also the 5.25" drive panal is damn close to the side of the radiator it just fits in. There's no room to run the fan cables behind the radiator so I'm going to have to run some along the case floor window side and arond the back to the fan power distrubuator. That or hack some holes into the case which I might do in the future but not willing to do so now.

I almost gave in and was about to install the rad into the ceiling, at least then the Phobya sticker would be the right way round. However I've ordered some m3x8mm which I'll use to attach the fans to the radiator then use self tapping screws to fix the fans to the case. Even then radiator with the ports at the front of the case I think I'll have to miss out a few screws but it should work.

Got the re-seat the heat sinks on my sabertooth 990fx (getting high VRM temps and I've been to lazy fix it till now), I've also just got my Asus GTX770 and EK heatsink so I'll probably do that tonight. I might be ready to start leak testing by sunday night if nothing else occurs.


----------



## owcraftsman

I have strong doubts about the 1 watt difference between UT45 vs UT60.


----------



## 47 Knucklehead

Speaking of wattage ...

Does anyone have a chart showing how many watts an XSPC EX480 Radiator will dissipate with either 4 or 8 1200 RPM fans?


----------



## 47 Knucklehead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *owcraftsman*
> 
> I have strong doubts about the 1 watt difference between UT45 vs UT60.


He didn't compare them, he compared the XT45-420 and the UT60-480. One is a 3x140mm radiator, the other is a 4x120 radiator.


----------



## EliteReplay

sorry is this has been asked before but im not on track always so apologies

how much heat or watts will this one be able to handle

Alphacool NexXxoS XT45 Full Copper 360mm Radiator (For 3 x 120mm Fans) ???


----------



## krisz9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EliteReplay*
> 
> sorry is this has been asked before but im not on track always so apologies
> 
> how much heat or watts will this one be able to handle
> 
> Alphacool NexXxoS XT45 Full Copper 360mm Radiator (For 3 x 120mm Fans) ???


http://martinsliquidlab.org/2012/04/15/alphacool-nexxxos-xt45-360-radiator/4/


----------



## EliteReplay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *krisz9*
> 
> http://martinsliquidlab.org/2012/04/15/alphacool-nexxxos-xt45-360-radiator/4/


thanks man but im at work and that webpage is blocked... can u please copy and paste the review here or the article thanks.... if its possible.


----------



## krisz9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EliteReplay*
> 
> thanks man but im at work and that webpage is blocked... can u please copy and paste the review here or the article thanks.... if its possible.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EliteReplay*
> 
> thanks man but im at work and that webpage is blocked... can u please copy and paste the review here or the article thanks.... if its possible.


You not only need the graphs but test specs.. and that is not a reasonable amount of info to be posting on here. That's why the link was supplied. And if you can't view it at work do it when you get home.








You need us to read it for you too?
Supporting fellow EP people is what we do. But that "support" does not include carrying and thinking for them.









@ krisz9,
Thanks for posting the link.


----------



## owcraftsman

Maybe I said that wrong let me be less clear and more to the point lol

I have my doubts about any 45 mm rad being only 1 watt behind any 60 mm rad when you compare apples to apples that is to say 120 vs 120 140 vs 140 360 vs 360 or 420 vs 420. The physics make no sense.

I have a UT60 420 in the top had no problems installing, I have 10mm clearance to HS on mobo, 20mm to memory clearance no problems removing a fan for greater access to mobo screws, I placed the 420 as far forward as possible and it's not in the way of the 8pin eps at all and I'd venture to say the same is true with most mobo that don't have the EPS in the middle top of the board (poor choice by Asus), and I'll take UT60 420 over a XT45 420 any day of the week.

There may be little difference between a 480 and 420 according to the calculator you are using but the XT45-420 has approx 810,000 less sq mm of mass than a UT60-480

480*120*60=3456000 sq mm

420*140*45=2646000 sq mm

I know that's overly simplistic and actual surface area may vary a bit due to FPI etc but still hard to think it only a little bigger.

It's not hard to figure out if utilized properly (right fans) which one would perform better and me still thinks the difference is more than 1 watt.

Of course all this assumes both configs are in push/pull and both are using the highest quality fans at medium to low speed putting both configs on an even playing field.

If you use previous gen 140mm fans the 420 would be at a disadvantage similarly most assume a trade off when using a 60mm vs 45mm radiator. The 60 can only use push or pull and the 45 can be configured using push/pull in other cases where folks have measured the difference. If that is assumed and used for the calculation the 420 again would be at a disadvantage. Furthermore most evaluations I've seen for comparison to 120 rads use 1st generation high restriction 420 rads like the swiftech. Such is not the case with the Enthoo Primo Case, the Phanteks PH-140SP fans and the Alphacool UT60 420 rad there is no such limitation.

Bottom line when you couple three factors

1) the enthoo primo case ability to accommodate 140mm rads

2) the latest gen 140mm fans with static pressure equaling that of high pressure 120mm fans

3) latest gen 420 rads with flow rates equaling that of there 120 rad counterparts

The game has been changed in favor of the 140mm rads and all that you read contrary to this maybe wrong IMHO


----------



## doyll

Here's video of real Enthoo Luxe.. and quick view of Enthoo Pro.


----------



## bond32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Here's video of real Enthoo Luxe.. and quick view of Enthoo Pro.


Is that a 200mm fan in front? Wonder if Phanteks makes a 200mm fan now that's worth a hoot... Would make a rad up there not a bad option if it's a decent fan....


----------



## bond32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *owcraftsman*
> 
> Maybe I said that wrong let me be less clear and more to the point lol
> I have my doubts about any 45 mm rad being only 1 watt behind any 60 mm rad when you compare apples to apples that is to say 120 vs 120 140 vs 140 360 vs 360 or 420 vs 420. The physics make no sense.
> I have a UT60 420 in the top had no problems installing, I have 10mm clearance to HS on mobo, 20mm to memory clearance no problems removing a fan for greater access to mobo screws, I placed the 420 as far forward as possible and it's not in the way of the 8pin eps at all and I'd venture to say the same is true with most mobo that don't have the EPS in the middle top of the board (poor choice by Asus), and I'll take UT60 420 over a XT45 420 any day of the week.
> There may be little difference between a 480 and 420 according to the calculator you are using but the XT45-420 has approx 810,000 less sq mm of mass than a UT60-480
> 480*120*60=3456000 sq mm
> 420*140*45=2646000 sq mm
> I know that's overly simplistic and actual surface area may vary a bit due to FPI etc but still hard to think it only a little bigger.
> It's not hard to figure out if utilized properly (right fans) which one would perform better and me still thinks the difference is more than 1 watt.
> Of course all this assumes both configs are in push/pull and both are using the highest quality fans at medium to low speed putting both configs on an even playing field.
> If you use previous gen 140mm fans the 420 would be at a disadvantage similarly most assume a trade off when using a 60mm vs 45mm radiator. The 60 can only use push or pull and the 45 can be configured using push/pull in other cases where folks have measured the difference. If that is assumed and used for the calculation the 420 again would be at a disadvantage. Furthermore most evaluations I've seen for comparison to 120 rads use 1st generation high restriction 420 rads like the swiftech. Such is not the case with the Enthoo Primo Case, the Phanteks PH-140SP fans and the Alphacool UT60 420 rad there is no such limitation.
> Bottom line when you couple three factors
> 1) the enthoo primo case ability to accommodate 140mm rads
> 2) the latest gen 140mm fans with static pressure equaling that of high pressure 120mm fans
> 3) latest gen 420 rads with flow rates equaling that of there 120 rad counterparts
> The game has been changed in favor of the 140mm rads and all that you read contrary to this maybe wrong IMHO


I'm only chiming in here to say I really like the phanteks fans. Their 140's, the included fans, are fantastic. Some over in the air cooling forums really love them too. With that said, I have 6 of them in push pull on my phoyba rad, don't have a single size issue at all. With my motherboard (Gigabyte z87OC), I even have full access to the 8 pin connectors and can remove the ram easily if needed. The only single issue I had was getting the darn thing in the case - practically had to disassemble the entire thing. Sucks too because now I wish and am considering flipping it as currently the fittings are on the backside where I may flip it and put them on the front.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EliteReplay*
> 
> sorry is this has been asked before but im not on track always so apologies
> 
> how much heat or watts will this one be able to handle
> 
> Alphacool NexXxoS XT45 Full Copper 360mm Radiator (For 3 x 120mm Fans) ???


Here ya go

http://www.overclock.net/t/1457426/radiator-size-estimator


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Here's video of real Enthoo Luxe.. and quick view of Enthoo Pro.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Is that a 200mm fan in front? Wonder if Phanteks makes a 200mm fan now that's worth a hoot... Would make a rad up there not a bad option if it's a decent fan....
Click to expand...

Good eyes!
I think it is. Here's another video showing it better.
https://www.phanteks.com/#&panel1-1&panel2-1


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *owcraftsman*
> 
> Maybe I said that wrong let me be less clear and more to the point lol
> I have my doubts about any 45 mm rad being only 1 watt behind any 60 mm rad when you compare apples to apples that is to say 120 vs 120 140 vs 140 360 vs 360 or 420 vs 420. The physics make no sense.


First we need to recognize that we were not comparing apples to apples..... we were comparing a 45mm 420 (58,800 sq mm) with a 60mm 480 (57,600 sq mm) so the shorter depth rad has a slight surface area advantage..... it also has a smaller % of dead area behind the fan motor but that advantage is not accounted for.

And the thermodynamic .... we can talk about physics when fan turbulence comes up







..... the analysis is sound . And actually it does make sense when you take all factors into account and look at what is happening ..... You assumption would be valid is the air temperature was constant from top to bottom and the air flow was constant in both instances. WE don't have those two conditions and that's where the static model falls apart. We don't have a 'static" situation and and the fact that there is a temp gradient thru the rad must be recognized. If we can agree that the air coming out of a rad is hotter than the air going in, it is easy to see that the transfer of heat at the top is going to be greater than at the bottom....with ambient temps at ambient 24, here's a sample temperature gradient where the air is being heated as it goes thru the rad

_________________________________________
24C
26
28
30
32
__________________________________________

So where will the greatest heat exchange take place ?....from the 35C water to the 24C air at the top or the 35C water to the 32C air at the bottom ? In addition, when ya have more depth, ya have more resistance and when ya have more resistance you have less air flow.....when ya have less air flow, ya have less heat exchange taking place.
Quote:


> I have a UT60 420 in the top had no problems installing, I have 10mm clearance to HS on mobo, 20mm to memory clearance no problems removing a fan for greater access to mobo screws, I placed the 420 as far forward as possible and it's not in the way of the 8pin eps at all and I'd venture to say the same is true with most mobo that don't have the EPS in the middle top of the board (poor choice by Asus), and I'll take UT60 420 over a XT45 420 any day of the week.


You should share your installation method as several peeps here had to disassemble half the case even to get even an XT45-420 in .... I stumbled upon a way to tilt and twist it in but my method wouldn't work on a 60mm. I don't have it as forward as possible as it woulda ruined the lineup of the rigid tubing and taken away my top drive bay. As it is now, I can still fit a Reeven Six Eyes in there. As for the EPS, we were talking specifically about the M6F which doesn't have it in the middle of the board. Jesse's build over at modzoo had it in the middle tho and he took out the UT60 because of cable concerns. If a UT60 is what ya want for aesthetics or other reasons, I have no issue with that..... but that won't change the thermodynamics, nor Martins / anyone else's test results
Quote:


> There may be little difference between a 480 and 420 according to the calculator you are using but the XT45-420 has approx 810,000 less sq mm of mass than a UT60-480
> 480*120*60=3456000 sq mm
> 420*140*45=2646000 sq mm


Mass would be cu.mm...... and extra mass is irrelevant when you no longer have an adequate temperature differential. The surface area argument is very valid but you have to account for the temperature gradient. Maybe it will be easier to understand this way.....

Stack two ST30's ..... with air being pulled in from the top of the case down thru the top rad, into the bot rad and out into the case .... Would you accept that the bottom rad's performance is hampered by the fact that its intake air is pre-heated by the top rad ..... same thing with thickness.

Quote:


> I know that's overly simplistic and actual surface area may vary a bit due to FPI etc but still hard to think it only a little bigger.
> It's not hard to figure out if utilized properly (right fans) which one would perform better and me still thinks the difference is more than 1 watt.


The test are the tests .... they are not subject to interpretation, they are actual measured results.

This are the test results at 1000 rpm which is the typical range of flow in the Enthoo.....mine run about 44 in idle and 862 while gaming .... the results are so close, any variances are smaller than the margin or error :

ST30-360 = 150
XT45-360 = 149
UT60-360 = 151
Monsta-360 = 154

Now again, we are talking about low noise installations in the Enthoo using the Phanteks fans. If we were to refocus the discussion to higher density rads and higher speed fans, the discussion will change. The temperature gradient will shrink because the air is moving thru faster. At low speeds, the air has absorbed just about all it can by the time it reaches the other side of the rad .....the analogy "you already have ya 5 pounds of crap in the 5 pound bag" comes to mind ..... but push the air thru faster and your hypothesis comes into play..... now the extra depth will matter because by the time the air exits the tin rads under hi speed, the "bag" isn't already full.

At 1250 rpm, we start to see a spread tho 5 watts is not anything to get excited about

ST30-360 = 181
XT45-360 = 183
UT60-360 = 188
Monsta-360 = 197

At 1800 rpm now, we start to see what you are expecting start to happen.

ST30-360 = 242
XT45-360 = 257
UT60-360 = 269
Monsta-360 = 281

Now the UT60 will provide 4.5% more cooling with the same surface / fan area.

At 2200 rpm.....we jump to 6%

ST30-360 = 281
XT45-360 = 307
UT60-360 = 326
Monsta-360 = 365

What you are expecting was very much applicable in the days of 30fpi rads and hi speed fans where hi speed was needed to provide enuff SP to get the air thru. But at low speeds, extra thickness does not really help.... The WC industry has followed the auto industry in this respect .... I remember changing the rad in my 1965 Pontiac Tempest ....was about 24" square and had a thickness of 2.5" .... rehabbed my sons Xterra rad and changed the one in his jeep and they were very thin, wide and tall.

If ya want the absolute best temps, I'd lean towards high fpi, thick rads with 3,000 rpm fans. If noise is concern, then lower speed fans are required and with that, thinner rads will be much more efficient.


----------



## bond32

+rep, You can always trust Jack to give you the hard numbers!


----------



## doyll

Phanteks hasn't got me the PWM hub specs yet but said he has "been told that the PWM can only hold 30W max." That would be approx 2.7 on control header and 5.4w on the other 5 headers... or 3x 1.8w PH-F140SP on each of the 5 headers. As to how close 30w is to letting the smoke out of the wires... well.









Looks Phanteks has lots on it's plate at the moment.. Consumer Electronics Show in Las Vegas, White Enthoo Primo, new Enthoo Luxe and Enthoo Pro (hopefully in March), new PH-F200SP (also March), PWM hub (should be soon)...


----------



## 47 Knucklehead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> First we need to recognize that we were not comparing apples to apples..... we were comparing a 45mm 420 (58,800 sq mm) with a 60mm 480 (57,600 sq mm) so the shorter depth rad has a slight surface area advantage..... it also has a smaller % of dead area behind the fan motor but that advantage is not accounted for.
> 
> And the thermodynamic .... we can talk about physics when fan turbulence comes up
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ..... the analysis is sound . And actually it does make sense when you take all factors into account and look at what is happening ..... You assumption would be valid is the air temperature was constant from top to bottom and the air flow was constant in both instances. WE don't have those two conditions and that's where the static model falls apart. We don't have a 'static" situation and and the fact that there is a temp gradient thru the rad must be recognized. If we can agree that the air coming out of a rad is hotter than the air going in, it is easy to see that the transfer of heat at the top is going to be greater than at the bottom....with ambient temps at ambient 24, here's a sample temperature gradient where the air is being heated as it goes thru the rad
> 
> _________________________________________
> 24C
> 26
> 28
> 30
> 32
> __________________________________________
> 
> So where will the greatest heat exchange take place ?....from the 35C water to the 24C air at the top or the 35C water to the 32C air at the bottom ? In addition, when ya have more depth, ya have more resistance and when ya have more resistance you have less air flow.....when ya have less air flow, ya have less heat exchange taking place.
> You should share your installation method as several peeps here had to disassemble half the case even to get even an XT45-420 in .... I stumbled upon a way to tilt and twist it in but my method wouldn't work on a 60mm. I don't have it as forward as possible as it woulda ruined the lineup of the rigid tubing and taken away my top drive bay. As it is now, I can still fit a Reeven Six Eyes in there. As for the EPS, we were talking specifically about the M6F which doesn't have it in the middle of the board. Jesse's build over at modzoo had it in the middle tho and he took out the UT60 because of cable concerns. If a UT60 is what ya want for aesthetics or other reasons, I have no issue with that..... but that won't change the thermodynamics, nor Martins / anyone else's test results
> Mass would be cu.mm...... and extra mass is irrelevant when you no longer have an adequate temperature differential. The surface area argument is very valid but you have to account for the temperature gradient. Maybe it will be easier to understand this way.....
> 
> Stack two ST30's ..... with air being pulled in from the top of the case down thru the top rad, into the bot rad and out into the case .... Would you accept that the bottom rad's performance is hampered by the fact that its intake air is pre-heated by the top rad ..... same thing with thickness.
> The test are the tests .... they are not subject to interpretation, they are actual measured results.
> 
> This are the test results at 1000 rpm which is the typical range of flow in the Enthoo.....mine run about 44 in idle and 862 while gaming .... the results are so close, any variances are smaller than the margin or error :
> 
> ST30-360 = 150
> XT45-360 = 149
> UT60-360 = 151
> Monsta-360 = 154
> 
> Now again, we are talking about low noise installations in the Enthoo using the Phanteks fans. If we were to refocus the discussion to higher density rads and higher speed fans, the discussion will change. The temperature gradient will shrink because the air is moving thru faster. At low speeds, the air has absorbed just about all it can by the time it reaches the other side of the rad .....the analogy "you already have ya 5 pounds of crap in the 5 pound bag" comes to mind ..... but push the air thru faster and your hypothesis comes into play..... now the extra depth will matter because by the time the air exits the tin rads under hi speed, the "bag" isn't already full.
> 
> At 1250 rpm, we start to see a spread tho 5 watts is not anything to get excited about
> 
> ST30-360 = 181
> XT45-360 = 183
> UT60-360 = 188
> Monsta-360 = 197
> 
> At 1800 rpm now, we start to see what you are expecting start to happen.
> 
> ST30-360 = 242
> XT45-360 = 257
> UT60-360 = 269
> Monsta-360 = 281
> 
> Now the UT60 will provide 4.5% more cooling with the same surface / fan area.
> 
> At 2200 rpm.....we jump to 6%
> 
> ST30-360 = 281
> XT45-360 = 307
> UT60-360 = 326
> Monsta-360 = 365
> 
> What you are expecting was very much applicable in the days of 30fpi rads and hi speed fans where hi speed was needed to provide enuff SP to get the air thru. But at low speeds, extra thickness does not really help.... The WC industry has followed the auto industry in this respect .... I remember changing the rad in my 1965 Pontiac Tempest ....was about 24" square and had a thickness of 2.5" .... rehabbed my sons Xterra rad and changed the one in his jeep and they were very thin, wide and tall.
> 
> 
> 
> If ya want the absolute best temps, I'd lean towards high fpi, thick rads with 3,000 rpm fans. If noise is concern, then lower speed fans are required and with that, thinner rads will be much more efficient.


Yup, this is EXACTLY what I found from personal experience, thicker radiators like the Monsta really benefit from higher speed fans, more so than the lower speed ones, even in push/pull configurations. At low speeds, say between 800 and 1000 RPM (ie if you are trying to be quiet), a thick radiator doesn't really buy you all that much as far as dumping heat goes. A thinner radiator that has more surface area (length and width wise ... not counting thickness) will get you better results than a thicker radiator that has less length and width.

That is why for my new build, I pretty much dumped my Monsta 360 and went with a more "sane" RX360 (mainly because I already had one laying around). Even going with a thinner 30mm radiator up top (EX480) will get me much more cooling capacity than the 60mm RX360 down below (291 watts on the 30mm 480 vs 219 watts on the 60mm 360).

Bottom line, for lower speed fans, generally having a 60mm or 80mm thick radiator won't really net you a huge gain in cooling capacity as going with more surface area (ie length and width).


----------



## Pierre3400

Is it just me or do Alphacool prove 12 long screws, that are too long? I have to use 4 spacers before they could fit, and now the top wont sit correctly, not that it cant be fixed, but seems a shame.


----------



## Liqu1dShadow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *47 Knucklehead*
> 
> Yup, this is EXACTLY what I found from personal experience, thicker radiators like the Monsta really benefit from higher speed fans, more so than the lower speed ones, even in push/pull configurations. At low speeds, say between 800 and 1000 RPM (ie if you are trying to be quiet), a thick radiator doesn't really buy you all that much as far as dumping heat goes. A thinner radiator that has more surface area (length and width wise ... not counting thickness) will get you better results than a thicker radiator that has less length and width.
> 
> That is why for my new build, I pretty much dumped my Monsta 360 and went with a more "sane" RX360 (mainly because I already had one laying around). Even going with a thinner 30mm radiator up top (EX480) will get me much more cooling capacity than the 60mm RX360 down below (291 watts on the 30mm 480 vs 219 watts on the 60mm 360).
> 
> Bottom line, for lower speed fans, generally having a 60mm or 80mm thick radiator won't really net you a huge gain in cooling capacity as going with more surface area (ie length and width).


I have a 60mm thick rads with fans running at 450rpm which has no noise,

Idle temps of GPU's and @ 100% they go to 33oC you cant really get any better can you?


----------



## Roxycon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pierre3400*
> 
> Is it just me or do Alphacool prove 12 long screws, that are too long? I have to use 4 spacers before they could fit, and now the top wont sit correctly, not that it cant be fixed, but seems a shame.


Use two short screws on each fan, its what i do if i go p/p on the alphacool rads







if you only got long screws you could shoot alphacool an email or go to your home depot and get screws in proper lenghts, last solution shouldt cost much


----------



## Pierre3400

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roxycon*
> 
> Use two short screws on each fan, its what i do if i go p/p on the alphacool rads
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> if you only got long screws you could shoot alphacool an email or go to your home depot and get screws in proper lenghts, last solution shouldt cost much


The Short screws are fine, but the long ones are simple waaay to long. I had som others laying around, but also too long


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pierre3400*
> 
> Is it just me or do Alphacool prove 12 long screws, that are too long? I have to use 4 spacers before they could fit, and now the top wont sit correctly, not that it cant be fixed, but seems a shame.


Alphacool supplies a set of 30mm screws for one side of the rad, and a set of 35mm screws for the other. That's the same #/length of screws that EK rads come with. XSPC only provides screws for one side of the rad.

The 30mm screws are meant to mount fan to rad. They can also mount fan, through case, to rad for thin/flat cases.

The 35mm screws are meant to mount fan through the case to rad for cases that are thicker than 3mm (like an aluminum case or many cases fan holes are dimpled - not flat) &/or for people using rad gaskets &/or adding grills. If they didn't include the longer screws people with thicker/dimpled cases wouldn't be able to mount the rad to the case at all.

On Alphacool rads I've noticed the space between the screw holes and the screw protection plates under them can vary from rad to rad and sometimes from one side of the rad to the other. You may find, like I did, that with one of my rads the longer screws worked through fans and the case on one side of the rad but not the other (though it didn't really matter for me as I didn't like the copper screws it came with and replaced them anyway).

If you had no such luck with your rad you could use plastic washers to make the longer screws work. A lot of people have to use washers in any case as on a lot of fans the tiny m3 socket caps on the Alphacool screws will slip through the holes without them. On some fans the provided screws work without washers, and some they don't.

Or, buy yourself some extra 30mm M3 screws which is what I wound up doing.


----------



## EnderUK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Phanteks hasn't got me the PWM hub specs yet but said he has "been told that the PWM can only hold 30W max." That would be approx 2.7 on control header and 5.4w on the other 5 headers... or 3x 1.8w PH-F140SP on each of the 5 headers. As to how close 30w is to letting the smoke out of the wires... well.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Looks Phanteks has lots on it's plate at the moment.. Consumer Electronics Show in Las Vegas, White Enthoo Primo, new Enthoo Luxe and Enthoo Pro (hopefully in March), new PH-F200SP (also March), PWM hub (should be soon)...


Glad I read that again thoughtyou meant 30w per header was going to plug 8 sickle flow into two headers and use the other 4 for the rest of the case fans. The sickle flows are 4.2w each.

I would love another 2 hubs theres even threaded mounts for them.

I'm still waiting on my m3 screws though did a tiny mod to keep the Asus gtx 770 back plate.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EnderUK*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Phanteks hasn't got me the PWM hub specs yet but said he has "been told that the PWM can only hold 30W max." That would be approx 2.7 on control header and 5.4w on the other 5 headers... or 3x 1.8w PH-F140SP on each of the 5 headers. As to how close 30w is to letting the smoke out of the wires... well.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Looks Phanteks has lots on it's plate at the moment.. Consumer Electronics Show in Las Vegas, White Enthoo Primo, new Enthoo Luxe and Enthoo Pro (hopefully in March), new PH-F200SP (also March), PWM hub (should be soon)...
> 
> 
> 
> Glad I read that again thoughtyou meant 30w per header was going to plug 8 sickle flow into two headers and use the other 4 for the rest of the case fans. The sickle flows are 4.2w each.
> 
> I would love another 2 hubs theres even threaded mounts for them.
> 
> I'm still waiting on my m3 screws though did a tiny mod to keep the Asus gtx 770 back plate.
Click to expand...

I had to read it twice myself. That's why I quoted what I was told.







I'm hoping to get real specifications of what each header is able to handle instead of "guessing" what "30W max." really means.


----------



## doyll

Some good video reviews starting to surface from CES 2014

Phanteks CES 2014 - Special Edition Enthoo Primo





Phanteks CES 2014 - Enthoo PRO





Phanteks CES 2014 - Enthoo Luxe


----------



## JackNaylorPE

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835709023

*Phanteks PH-F140SP_BK 140mm Case Fan - $14.99*
+ 20% off w/ promo code EMCPWPA46, limited offer

OK, adding push would require 5 fans + 1 more for behind the empty 5.25 bay grille..... $90 w/ 20% off = $72.

So the $3 savings per fan is pulling me but my 8.4C Delta T telling me ...."whaddya need that for" ?

Someone tell me why I should / shouldn't .... needs to be mentioned, can't install them w/o another 2 Phanteks PCB's.

I need good answers when wife / kids ask me









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Some good video reviews starting to surface from CES 2014
> 
> Phanteks CES 2014 - Special Edition Enthoo Primo
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Phanteks CES 2014 - Enthoo PRO
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Phanteks CES 2014 - Enthoo Luxe


Damn white LED is what I really wanted.









$89 and $139 .....and new primos at original price, nice.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pierre3400*
> 
> Is it just me or do Alphacool prove 12 long screws, that are too long? I have to use 4 spacers before they could fit, and now the top wont sit correctly, not that it cant be fixed, but seems a shame.


\

I said the same thing....







... I found a solution .... alternate sources

http://www.overclock.net/t/1439800/radiator-screws-how-come-we-only-get-half


----------



## Pierre3400

I want the white leds to install in the black case! They must start to sell spares one day like Corsair do


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835709023
> 
> *Phanteks PH-F140SP_BK 140mm Case Fan - $14.99*
> + 20% off w/ promo code EMCPWPA46, limited offer
> 
> OK, adding push would require 5 fans + 1 more for behind the empty 5.25 bay grille..... $90 w/ 20% off = $72.
> 
> So the $3 savings per fan is pulling me but my 8.4C Delta T telling me ...."whaddya need that for" ?
> 
> Someone tell me why I should / shouldn't .... needs to be mentioned, can't install them w/o another 2 Phanteks PCB's.
> 
> I need good answers when wife / kids ask me


*Okay Whaddya need that for ??*


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> Damn white LED is what I really wanted.


I'm liking the Special Edition white interior w/ white LED.

Have to say the Enthoo Luxe looks nice too... and 200mm front fan.. PH-F200SP.. wish it was PWM but with PWM hubs it will be sweet...

And a new PH-F120SP will be coming out too.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pierre3400*
> 
> I want the white leds to install in the black case! They must start to sell spares one day like Corsair do


First thing I said....and then looked at the 5 fans w/ blue LEds Id have to replace

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Liqu1dShadow*
> 
> I have a 60mm thick rads with fans running at 450rpm which has no noise,
> 
> Idle temps of GPU's and @ 100% they go to 33oC you cant really get any better can you?


Damn 19C GPU temps.... just thinking about what your ambient must be made my get the shivers.


----------



## doyll

Wonder if Phanteks will make PH-F140SP with white, red & orange LEDs to match cases?
















Wonder how hard it would be to switch the LEDs?


----------



## Pierre3400

I dont min sitting down and soldering, but the 500mm strips, im not doing lol.

I did this today.


----------



## Roxycon

God, now i want the special edition white and black primo


----------



## Bludge

Can someone help me out with the PWM hub? Not sure what I am doing wrong. I am using an Asus X79 Deluxe board, and its seems not able to control the PWM hub

1) 4 pin is connected to Chassis Fan 4
2) install 4 original case fans into the 2 splitters on the hub.
3) Turn on PC fans no go
4) Add molex power, fans spin up.
5) Install NB Noiseblocker PK-3 to Fan 1

Running the asus fan xpert2 software, it records the results from 0% - 100% fan power as 1650rpm +/-. Under testing the fans do stop, but after that it says they are not controllable and leaves them at max

what have i done wrong?


----------



## flaminghomer

With my MSI Z77 MPOWER the PWM hub only works with the CPU FAN header. The 4-pin chassis fan headers don't seem to be "real" PWM headers.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roxycon*
> 
> God, now i want the special edition white and black primo


You and me both, Mate... and I'm sure many others.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bludge*
> 
> Can someone help me out with the PWM hub? Not sure what I am doing wrong. I am using an Asus X79 Deluxe board, and its seems not able to control the PWM hub
> 
> 1) *4 pin is connected to Chassis Fan 4*
> 2) install 4 original case fans into the 2 splitters on the hub.
> 3) Turn on PC fans no go
> 4) Add molex power, fans spin up.
> 5) Install NB Noiseblocker PK-3 to Fan 1
> 
> Running the asus fan xpert2 software, it records the results from 0% - 100% fan power as 1650rpm +/-. Under testing the fans do stop, but after that it says they are not controllable and leaves them at max
> 
> what have i done wrong?


1. Only the CPU_fan header on most motherboard is PWM
4. Keep molex power plugged in
5. This is your "master" fan. It controls the speed of all others. Sense it's a 1700rpm fan and others are 1200rpm fans when PK-3 shows 1275rpm the other will probably be running about 900rpm.









PWM hub 4-pin lead being plugged in CHA fan 4 = no PWM control = Fan Xpert 2 not being able to control using PWM.








Fan 1 is the fan that sends RPM reading to motherboard PWM.. motherboard PWM than sends PWM signal for fan speed for all fans to PWM hub based on the speed of Fan 1.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *flaminghomer*
> 
> With my MSI Z77 MPOWER the PWM hub only works with the CPU FAN header. The 4-pin chassis fan headers don't seem to be "real" PWM headers.


Yep, this is true on almost all motherboards with 4-pin headers that only the CPU_FAN and CPU_OPT headers are actually PWM, and you must connect the hub to one of them.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bludge*
> 
> Can someone help me out with the PWM hub? Not sure what I am doing wrong. *I am using an Asus X79 Deluxe board*, and its seems not able to control the PWM hub
> 
> 1) *4 pin is connected to Chassis Fan 4*
> 2) install 4 original case fans into the 2 splitters on the hub.
> 3) Turn on PC fans no go
> 4) Add molex power, fans spin up.
> 5) Install NB Noiseblocker PK-3 to Fan 1
> 
> Running the asus fan xpert2 software, it records the results from 0% - 100% fan power as 1650rpm +/-. Under testing the fans do stop, but after that it says they are not controllable and leaves them at max
> 
> what have i done wrong?


Only the CPU_FAN and CPU_OPT headers are PWM. All the rest of your board's 4-pin headers, like most motherboards, instead of a PWM signal wire they have a 5v fixed feed, which for a PWM device, 5v is an unmodulated full 100% duty cycle command.

From the X79 Deluxe manual p 2-32 ...


----------



## Liqu1dShadow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> Damn 19C GPU temps.... just thinking about what your ambient must be made my get the shivers.


Ambient temps were 17oc in that test









So GPU's idle are 2oC above amb and at 100% they are 16oC above amb

Not bad me thinks


----------



## krisz9

so on newegg the primo is down to 230, -20 with rebate = 210. You guys think thats as cheap as ill get within the next couple months? And can anyone else that got a rebate in the past tell me about how long it takes to receive?


----------



## 47 Knucklehead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *krisz9*
> 
> so on newegg the primo is down to 230, -20 with rebate = 210. You guys think thats as cheap as ill get within the next couple months? And can anyone else that got a rebate in the past tell me about how long it takes to receive?


That's a heck of a deal, much better than the $249 I paid. About the only possible price lowering I could see any time soon would be when the White version comes out ... MAYBE.

Personally, I would just buy it. I mean it's not like it's going to drop to $179. MAYBE another $10, MAYBE. But to me, that isn't worth waiting for if you want it now.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *krisz9*
> 
> so on newegg the primo is down to 230, -20 with rebate = 210. You guys think thats as cheap as ill get within the next couple months? And can anyone else that got a rebate in the past tell me about how long it takes to receive?


You might want to wait a couple months. CES 2013 is in full swing right now and Phanteks is showing a new case; Phanteks Enthoo Luxe with a MSRP of $189.99. It has many of same features as Enthoo Primo but is smaller.
Enthoo Luxe = 235x560x550mm (WxHxD)
Enthoo Primo = 250x650x600mm
Video reviews coming out of CES 2014 are saying it supports radiators up to 420mm top, 240 front & bottom and 140 back.

There is also a stripped down version of Enthoo Luxe called Enthoo Pro... and Phanteks plans to sell the Enthoo Luxe components as options for used in Enthoo Luxe.


----------



## krisz9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> You might want to wait a couple months. CES 2013 is in full swing right now and Phanteks is showing a new case; Phanteks Enthoo Luxe with a MSRP of $189.99. It has many of same features as Enthoo Primo but is smaller.
> Enthoo Luxe = 235x560x550mm (WxHxD)
> Enthoo Primo = 250x650x600mm
> Video reviews coming out of CES 2014 are saying it supports radiators up to 420mm top, 240 front & bottom and 140 back.
> 
> There is also a stripped down version of Enthoo Luxe called Enthoo Pro... and Phanteks plans to sell the Enthoo Luxe components as options for used in Enthoo Luxe.


yeah i've watched the vids in regards to both. I may be interested in the luxe but at the same time, why not have that extra space with the primo, you know? the only thing that factors in (for me anyway) is price. Im sitting with a midtower and for sure I want a full tower, there's hardly any room to work with in my crappy, cheap, and old case. I just dont want to feel squished again when i have to deal with doing something inside the case. But a 420 and 280 (top and bottom) is all im really planning on ever having, as i dont plan on running ever more than 2 gpus and a cpu. I should prob. wait out a bit, i'm in no rush. Just plan on buying it some time before mid April. I like the design a bit better on the primo, so im def. still 90%/10% on primo vs luxe. Just trying to get the best price, since i missed black friday sales for this.


----------



## simsim44

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *krisz9*
> 
> so on newegg the primo is down to 230, -20 with rebate = 210. You guys think thats as cheap as ill get within the next couple months? And can anyone else that got a rebate in the past tell me about how long it takes to receive?


I just ordered it this morning, I will not (most likely) be getting the rebate, I just never bother. for 229. I just went for it. The main buying reason was for forward thinking aspect, it maybe the last case I buy, as for style and make, I have a full tower currently and I still have room issues as far as drive bays go,


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *krisz9*
> 
> yeah i've watched the vids in regards to both. I may be interested in the luxe but at the same time, why not have that extra space with the primo, you know? the only thing that factors in (for me anyway) is price. Im sitting with a midtower and for sure I want a full tower, there's hardly any room to work with in my crappy, cheap, and old case. I just dont want to feel squished again when i have to deal with doing something inside the case. But a 420 and 240 (top and bottom) is all im really planning on ever having, as i dont plan on running ever more than 2 gpus and a cpu. I should prob. wait out a bit, i'm in no rush. Just plan on buying it some time before mid April.


Have you tried visualizing the Enthoo Primo's size with a tape measure? Like measure from the back of your case out in front to 600mm (23,625") and from bottom up to 650mm (25.6"). And if you plan on using bottom radiator keep in mind Primo bottom venting is really only enough for a single 120mm fan.. so case needs to be raised about 30-40mm to improve airflow to bottom. Empty case weights about 39 lbs so caser base is very handy when adding a system and a couple big radiators.









And one thing is almost always true with buying computer components... they will be cheaper next month... and next month they will be still cheaper in another month. Enthoo Primo has already been on sale once with $40.00 off and free posting. With the White Enthoo Primo on it's way followed closely by Enthoo Primo Special Editions, Enthoo Luxe and Enthoo Pro.....

Nevermind!


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bludge*
> 
> Can someone help me out with the PWM hub? Not sure what I am doing wrong. I am using an Asus X79 Deluxe board, and its seems not able to control the PWM hub
> 
> 1) 4 pin is connected to Chassis Fan 4
> 2) install 4 original case fans into the 2 splitters on the hub.
> 3) Turn on PC fans no go
> 4) Add molex power, fans spin up.
> 5) Install NB Noiseblocker PK-3 to Fan 1
> 
> Running the asus fan xpert2 software, it records the results from 0% - 100% fan power as 1650rpm +/-. Under testing the fans do stop, but after that it says they are not controllable and leaves them at max
> 
> what have i done wrong?


Undo step 4 ...... the signal from any 4 pin fan header that does not say CPU on it is not PWM...... it's DC (varying voltage). When you connect the Molex power, the 12V overrides the voltage sent from the header and supplies 12v to all the fans which now runs at full speed. Makes me wonder if thatz what's behind the delay on the release of the PCB.us something to the DC signal. I had 8 fans connected (8 x 0.14) = 1.12 amps which is above the headers "supposed" rated amperage ..... I want 2 more PCBs so I can put the 3 push for the 420 (and maybe future 3 pull) on one PCB, one for the bottom 280 in same manner, and one for the six case fans.

FanXpert 2 works great then ..... I can supply ya with my curve points if ya like.

Alternative is to connect to CPU Header

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Liqu1dShadow*
> 
> Ambient temps were 17oc in that test
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So GPU's idle are 2oC above amb and at 100% they are 16oC above amb
> 
> Not bad me thinks


With fans at 100% ..... my GPUs w/ 25+% OC on core and 20+% on memory) are at 39C under Furmark .... ambient typically at 21.5 - 22.5 so about 17C I guess.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *krisz9*
> 
> so on newegg the primo is down to 230, -20 with rebate = 210. You guys think thats as cheap as ill get within the next couple months? And can anyone else that got a rebate in the past tell me about how long it takes to receive?


Fans have 20% coupon code too.


----------



## krisz9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *simsim44*
> 
> I just ordered it this morning, I will not (most likely) be getting the rebate, I just never bother. for 229. I just went for it. The main buying reason was for forward thinking aspect, it maybe the last case I buy, as for style and make, I have a full tower currently and I still have room issues as far as drive bays go,


Yes this is def. a future-based buy as well, since i dont plan on buying a new case after this. This case seems to be everything I need and _will_ ever need. And that is also the reason why I would want the primo over the luxe. Plus i like the design better in the primo








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Have you tried visualizing the Enthoo Primo's size with a tape measure? Like measure from the back of your case out in front to 600mm (23,625") and from bottom up to 650mm (25.6"). And if you plan on using bottom radiator keep in mind Primo bottom venting is really only enough for a single 120mm fan.. so case needs to be raised about 30-40mm to improve airflow to bottom. Empty case weights about 39 lbs so caser base is very handy when adding a system and a couple big radiators.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And one thing is almost always true with buying computer components... they will be cheaper next month... and next month they will be still cheaper in another month. Enthoo Primo has already been on sale once with $40.00 off and free posting. With the White Enthoo Primo on it's way followed closely by Enthoo Primo Special Editions, Enthoo Luxe and Enthoo Pro.....
> 
> Nevermind!


lol what happened? I did end up editing my post a bit


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *krisz9*
> 
> lol what happened? I did end up editing my post a bit


You were writing and I was writing and web-zone got us!









I know of at least two Enthoo Primo owners who will be changing to new Special Edition Enthoo Primos already.. and they will be selling their EPs when they do..

Add on how many EP buyers who will wait for Special Edition EPs instead of the present all black one. Cancel your order if you can.


----------



## simsim44

too late for the cancel I would rather be all black..... any how I just checked out the link for the rebate, " Purchase must be made between 01 /07 /14 and 01 /13/14." so if your cool with the black version and want the rebate you have until Monday to get it, my guess is there will be another pomo deal after that as it was stated time allows the price to shrink.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Mine's now a production box and once built,they never come out of service except for repairs. Every part in it will serve until its replaced by a brand new box and this one will get "passed down" to someone else...... I know I will be tempted to keep the WC components but the idea of doing all that work, and putting air coolers back on GFX cards makes me tired just thinking about its ..... if anyone can e-mail me some "youthful exuberance", would be most appreciated







...... my "get up and go" seems to have "got up and left" !

I haven't even finished my sleeving yet..... fingers were sore from squeezing the hot burnt ends and then pushing pins into connectors.....and not very happy with the paracord....seems to pick up grime just sitting on my desk.


----------



## krisz9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> Fans have 20% coupon code too.


ah, nice








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> You were writing and I was writing and web-zone got us!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I know of at least two Enthoo Primo owners who will be changing to new Special Edition Enthoo Primos already.. and they will be selling their EPs when they do..
> 
> Add on how many EP buyers who will wait for Special Edition EPs instead of the present all black one. Cancel your order if you can.


yeah I just watched linus's video on the EPs, I'm gonna hold off then and hope everything gets released soon so I can make my final decision. I just can't wait to have it haha, it's always exciting buying new parts


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> the signal from any 4 pin fan header that does not say CPU on it is not PWM...... it's DC (varying voltage). When you connect the Molex power, the 12V overrides the voltage sent from the header and supplies 12v to all the fans which now runs at full speed. Makes me wonder if thatz what's behind the delay on the release of the PCB.us something to the DC signal. I had 8 fans connected (8 x 0.14) = 1.12 amps which is above the headers "supposed" rated amperage ..... I want 2 more PCBs so I can put the 3 push for the 420 (and maybe future 3 pull) on one PCB, one for the bottom 280 in same manner, and one for the six case fans.


Sounds like you are using the Phanteks PCB hub as a variable voltage fan splitter?

So you could use:
NZXT fan hub.

ModMyToys has several PCBs from 3x to 8x fana


2-Pin Male to 8 x 2-pin Male
3-Pin Male to 3 x 3-pin Male
3-Pin Male to 4 x 3-pin Male + 4 x 2-pin Male
3-Pin Male to 5 x 3-pin Male
4-Pin Male to 3 x 3-pin Male
4-Pin Male to 4 x 3-pin Male + 4 x 2-pin Male
4-Pin Male to 5 x 3-pin Male
4-Pin Male to 8 x 3-pin Male
6-Pin Male to 3 x 3-pin Male
6-Pin Male to 5 x 3-pin Male
6-Pin Male to 8 x 3-pin Male
8-Pin Male to 3 x 3-pin Male
8-Pin Male to 5 x 3-pin Male
8-Pin Male to 5 x 3-pin Male
8-Pin Male to 8 x 3-pin Male
http://modmytoys.com/pcb.html


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Seeing as I paid just shy of $300 with shipping ($292.84, to be exact) for my Enthoo Primo less than 3 months ago, I'm terribly jealous of the $209 after rebate plus free shipping. I'm tempted to buy another.

I'm not a fan of the new mini-me editions and the new white one isn't for me either. Just not my taste at all. I cringe every time I see a white case of any kind. I wouldn't have a white case if it was $10 much less $200 or more, but that's just me. I similarly cringe whenever I see a bunch of red in a build also. I can't stand red anything. I don't know how to describe it other than to say that it's not a matter of 'taste', The color red is actually painful for me to even look at. My wife is the exact same way, except she's even worse about it than I am. Very little red anything makes it into our house (unless it's something edible - we do eat lots of red) and most of what does have any red on it my wife will remove it, cover it up, paint it over, or throw it away within minutes.

It's strange to me how we all see the same things in such different ways.


----------



## Liqu1dShadow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> With fans at 100% ..... my GPUs w/ 25+% OC on core and 20+% on memory) are at 39C under Furmark .... ambient typically at 21.5 - 22.5 so about 17C I guess.
> Fans have 20% coupon code too.


My fans are at 35% all the time







450rpm (silent)


----------



## krisz9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Seeing as I paid just shy of $300 with shipping ($292.84, to be exact) for my Enthoo Primo less than 3 months ago, I'm terribly jealous of the $209 after rebate plus free shipping. I'm tempted to buy another.
> 
> I'm not a fan of the new mini-me editions and the new white one isn't for me either. Just not my taste at all. I cringe every time I see a white case of any kind. I wouldn't have a white case if it was $10 much less $200 or more, but that's just me. I similarly cringe whenever I see a bunch of red in a build also. I can't stand red anything. I don't know how to describe it other than to say that it's not a matter of 'taste', The color red is actually painful for me to even look at. My wife is the exact same way, except she's even worse about it than I am. Very little red anything makes it into our house (unless it's something edible - we do eat lots of red) and most of what does have any red on it my wife will remove it, cover it up, paint it over, or throw it away within minutes.
> 
> It's strange to me how we all see the same things in such different ways.


well it's funny that you mention that. See, all my furniture for my bedroom where my desk/pc is, happens to be all wood stained black. So a white case doesnt make sense, although I'm not opposed to it if it matches the room.

As far as colors are concerned, I built my first nice pc 7 years ago, the case's built in LED's were supposed to be green, the box was marked for green led's but when I powered the PC on..it was blue..







. Too much trouble to go through fixing the problem though if I were to complain about it so I let it be, but it's been so long that despite blue being my favorite color, I'm so tired of it. That's why my next build is black/red (although it seems to be very over done-but this isnt true in my case







). I'm actually looking very forward to everything matching black/red from peripherals to case lighting to water cooling. I think this is where RGB shines, because if you get bored of something, at the flip of a switch/push of a button you can change the color to something more appealing for the time being.


----------



## chrisnyc75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *krisz9*
> 
> well it's funny that you mention that. See, all my furniture for my bedroom where my desk/pc is, happens to be all wood stained black. So a white case doesnt make sense, although I'm not opposed to it if it matches the room.
> 
> As far as colors are concerned, I built my first nice pc 7 years ago, the case's built in LED's were supposed to be green, the box was marked for green led's but when I powered the PC on..it was blue..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Too much trouble to go through fixing the problem though if I were to complain about it so I let it be, but it's been so long that despite blue being my favorite color, I'm so tired of it. That's why my next build is black/red (although it seems to be very over done-but this isnt true in my case
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ). I'm actually looking very forward to everything matching black/red from peripherals to case lighting to water cooling. I think this is where RGB shines, because if you get bored of something, at the flip of a switch/push of a button you can change the color to something more appealing for the time being.


Word to the wise -- red/black can be a very difficult theme to do with watercooling because "true red" tubing & components can be very difficult to find. Most "red" watercooling components end up looking either pink or orange, partly because there is no such thing as uv red. Just something to think about. Given what I know now, I probably would have chosen a different color scheme altogether.


----------



## krisz9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chrisnyc75*
> 
> Word to the wise -- red/black can be a very difficult theme to do with watercooling because "true red" tubing & components can be very difficult to find. Most "red" watercooling components end up looking either pink or orange, partly because there is no such thing as uv red. Just something to think about. Given what I know now, I probably would have chosen a different color scheme altogether.


Yeah no worries, ive been at it for a while as far as researching goes. Im not going uv. Thanks for the advice though







. The most concerning thing is buying parts online and not being able to see it in person for the true color it is. Thats my biggest concern, but I try to make the best decisions possible with all the info internet can provide me


----------



## chrisnyc75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *krisz9*
> 
> Yeah no worries, ive been at it for a while as far as researching goes. Im not going uv. Thanks for the advice though
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . The most concerning thing is buying parts online and not being able to see it in person for the true color it is. Thats my biggest concern, but I try to make the best decisions possible with all the info internet can provide me


Cool. As far as tubing goes, either go with something other than red, or go with clear tubing and red dye so you can formulate your own red. Afaik, all red tubing either ends up looking pink or orange (which isn't necessarily bad, it's just not red)


----------



## Liqu1dShadow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chrisnyc75*
> 
> Cool. As far as tubing goes, either go with something other than red, or go with clear tubing and red dye so you can formulate your own red. Afaik, all red tubing either ends up looking pink or orange (which isn't necessarily bad, it's just not red)


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Sounds like you are using the Phanteks PCB hub as a variable voltage fan splitter?
> 
> So you could use:
> NZXT fan hub.
> 
> ModMyToys has several PCBs from 3x to 8x fana
> 
> http://modmytoys.com/pcb.html


Yes I recommend these all the time ..... the Phanteks one tho matched the existing mounting bracket







....

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Liqu1dShadow*
> 
> My fans are at 35% all the time
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 450rpm (silent)


Mine to..... 404 rpm .... though they get to 650ish under the biggest load games and 850 under furmark (well since latest fan curve adjustment).

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *krisz9*
> 
> That's why my next build is black/red (although it seems to be very over done-but this isnt true in my case
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ). I'm actually looking very forward to everything matching black/red from peripherals to case lighting to water cooling. I think this is where RGB shines, because if you get bored of something, at the flip of a switch/push of a button you can change the color to something more appealing for the time being.


Well if I can be of any help ...... that was my route..... Suggestions:

1. RoG or MSO MoBo .... M6F is my personal fav color scheme wise
2. Mushkin Redklin Ridgebacks ..... gorgeous. matching red and they have better timings than anyone else at 2400 ...actually Dominators have same timings
3. I found once it was done .... it was "too black" .... so I went with a white reservoir ... figured since I was changing the top to a multiport, would only cost be an extra $10 or so for a black bottom if I wanted to change to black.
4. I didn't want to with any colored lighting inside cause it's dark..... the components are beautiful to look at and the best way to see them in all their glory was white light.
5. I wanted to go with the Mayhems Deep Red pastel but no one ever had it in stock.....the Mayhems Pastel Red looked close in the pics but was kinda pinkish .... my kids said "Strawberry Slushie". Two bottles of Mayhems red dye has it perty close.
6. I had planned on Red / White / Sleeving with 1 black wire on the bigger ones to "tie it in so to speak" but after doing 1 cable Im not happy with the look of paracord.....not decided which way I will go yet.


----------



## krisz9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chrisnyc75*
> 
> Cool. As far as tubing goes, either go with something other than red, or go with clear tubing and red dye so you can formulate your own red. Afaik, all red tubing either ends up looking pink or orange (which isn't necessarily bad, it's just not red)


My issue is, "the best" thing to use is just distilled water, without any die/coolants/mixtures. I've heard(read) great things about Mayhems, but am still unsure if I want to go through the trouble of having it. It's a really hard decision for me actually because the stuff looks great, and I've read/seen lots of stuff with it. I just dont want it causing problems with my loop as I dont have the finances to cover costs if there's a problem because of it.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> Well if I can be of any help ...... that was my route..... Suggestions:
> 
> 1. RoG or MSO MoBo .... M6F is my personal fav color scheme wise
> 2. Mushkin Redklin Ridgebacks ..... gorgeous. matching red and they have better timings than anyone else at 2400 ...actually Dominators have same timings
> 3. I found once it was done .... it was "too black" .... so I went with a white reservoir ... figured since I was changing the top to a multiport, would only cost be an extra $10 or so for a black bottom if I wanted to change to black.
> 4. I didn't want to with any colored lighting inside cause it's dark..... the components are beautiful to look at and the best way to see them in all their glory was white light.
> 5. I wanted to go with the Mayhems Deep Red pastel but no one ever had it in stock.....the Mayhems Pastel Red looked close in the pics but was kinda pinkish .... my kids said "Strawberry Slushie". Two bottles of Mayhems red dye has it perty close.
> 6. I had planned on Red / White / Sleeving with 1 black wire on the bigger ones to "tie it in so to speak" but after doing 1 cable Im not happy with the look of paracord.....not decided which way I will go yet.


Yea I have already bought some stuff during BF sales, I have the RoG maximus VI hero, g. skill ripjaw x 2133 (and I bought my 4770k along with it during the Microcenter deal). I have the rest of the stuff in the ultimate build rig builder. I was thinking bitspower red res. but I dont know how red that truly is...also heard something iffy about bitspower res's I believe (it was a while back so memory is a bit fuzzy)-so i might go back to a clear res. tube. I want to do rigid tubing, but as this will _eventually_ be my first WC build, I may be sticking with reg. tubing. I believe I picked out some red tubing (looks red, but again dont exactly know if it is truly red).

I've been meaning to put some models together on the PC with sketchup or CAD or something...but until I actually have the funds to WC i prob. wont


----------



## Liqu1dShadow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> Mine to..... 404 rpm .... though they get to 650ish under the biggest load games and 850 under furmark (well since latest fan curve adjustment).


Mine are at 450rpm even when benching, gaming, mining, or other GPU related stuff, so flat fan curve


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *krisz9*
> 
> My issue is, "the best" thing to use is just distilled water, without any die/coolants/mixtures. I've heard(read) great things about Mayhems, but am still unsure if I want to go through the trouble of having it. It's a really hard decision for me actually because the stuff looks great, and I've read/seen lots of stuff with it. I just dont want it causing problems with my loop as I don't have the finances to cover costs if there's a problem because of it.


I put that in the "world is flat" / "man can't fly" / "smoking is harmless" / "Hi speed, hi SP fans w/ hi fpi rads are necessary for good cooling" category. By that I mean the general wisdom by all the great minds "at the time" all held to this belief. When water cooling started to take off, many vendors jumped in trying to make a buck selling special coolants without a track record or adequate testing before foisting it in customers. In this era, the "DW is the only safe solution" was great advice.... but we are no longer in that era.

Science and experience has since weeded out the snake oil salesman and the premium products have risen to the top. Also many of the "horror stories" blaming the coolant turned out to be caused by bad plating jobs, plasticizer leaching out of tubing and other causes. In the course of my work, I deal with large scale cooling systems in power plants / emergency generators, building HVAC, etc. and anyone who used "pure water" in such a system would result in thousands of dollars worth of repairs from scaling, corrosion and biological fouling.

These systems are expected to last 20 - 50 years so fortunately, we have little chance of such disasters occurring since the average life a PC is 2-4 years. Those using DW will recommend changing fluid at least very 6 months..... engineered coolants can easily go 3 years. DW is a perfect coolant and the day it is put in, it is probably the best coolant (not counting extremely expensive nano coolants). But it starts degrading on day 1 and continues to do so each day its in there ..... bacteria begin to grow and ions start leaching into the coolant serving as a conduit for corrosion. This can be mitigated by biocides / kill coils and corrosion inhibitors..... but at this point ya no longer have DW. Im not saying there's anything wrong with DW w/ necessary additives, I am just saying ya gotta pay attention to it.

I'm still not comfortable with EG as it seems certain concentrations are OK and others are disastrous.....but have diligently followed the every instance of a claimed problem with the Mayhems pastel and not found one where the gunk or other problem was not later determined to be caused by something else.
Quote:


> Yea I have already bought some stuff during BF sales, I have the RoG maximus VI hero, g. skill ripjaw x 2133 (and I bought my 4770k along with it during the Microcenter deal). I have the rest of the stuff in the ultimate build rig builder. I was thinking bitspower red res. but I dont know how red that truly is...also heard something iffy about bitspower res's I believe (it was a while back so memory is a bit fuzzy)-so i might go back to a clear res. tube. I want to do rigid tubing, but as this will _eventually_ be my first WC build, I may be sticking with reg. tubing. I believe I picked out some red tubing (looks red, but again dont exactly know if it is truly red).


Rigid tubing is not hard at all, tho bending is an art form and like anything else will take some practice .... expect to toss a couple of ya 1st few bends... I never was into WC as the tubes bending and weaving every which way offended by sense of order







..... so until rigid tubing came along, I just wasn't "going there". The fittings can get expensive tho .... even moving from clamps to compressions brings a nice $ bump .... but it sure does look better and more so when things go in straight lines and have uniform bends.
Quote:


> I've been meaning to put some models together on the PC with sketchup or CAD or something...but until I actually have the funds to WC i prob. wont


I used AutoCAD 14


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Liqu1dShadow*
> 
> Mine are at 450rpm even when benching, gaming, mining, or other GPU related stuff, so flat fan curve


You could prolly go passive given those rpms


----------



## borax

Hello guys and girls, quick question which I'm struggling to get sorted out.. We're can I buy the 5mm thick led strip for the case, i'm going to be modding it to a green colour, but haven't been able to locate a retailer any were. I live in the uk, so could someone suggest were to buy them from?

Thanks.


----------



## krisz9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*


yea if I were to do WC, i want to do it right the first time. I suppose ill do the ridig tubing







. Liquid shadow's looks red to me though, so I think i will still avoid using Mayhems (for the time being). My answer might change within the next 6 months when I actually can afford to do the WCing


----------



## Gunilla95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *borax*
> 
> Hello guys and girls, quick question which I'm struggling to get sorted out.. We're can I buy the 5mm thick led strip for the case, i'm going to be modding it to a green colour, but haven't been able to locate a retailer any were. I live in the uk, so could someone suggest were to buy them from?
> 
> Thanks.


Hello mate!

I always go and sarch on ebay. long shippment time. but hey the prices are that low there so you dont care ( in my oppinion)
I used a bigger SMD5050 strip to get RGB for mine. you only have to take out the plastic "light spreader" and you get it fit.



EDIT: maybe something like this mate? http://www.ebay.com/itm/5M-3528-SMD-waterproof-Cool-warm-white-Red-Blue-Green-Yellow-300LED-Strip-Lights-/111122286874?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&var=410193250394&hash=item19df67891a


----------



## borax

@Gunilla95

That's a valid point dude, I think ide also go with the rob option as it gives me a choice of colours. Do you know of any uk shippers that ide be able to get it from? A 2 week wait is kinda long hehe.. what is the thickness of the lights your using in mm?


----------



## Gunilla95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *borax*
> 
> @Gunilla95
> 
> That's a valid point dude, I think ide also go with the rob option as it gives me a choice of colours. Do you know of any uk shippers that ide be able to get it from? A 2 week wait is kinda long hehe.. what is the thickness of the lights your using in mm?


The ones im using are almost 10mm.

sadly i cant help you with any UK shippers becouse im living in little sweden and never order from the uk









EDIT: bitfenix is selling LED and RGBS as well i think check out any reseller of them.
http://www.bitfenix.com/global/en/products/premium-modding/alchemy-led-strips/


----------



## borax

@Gunilla95

Thanks mate







I've seen the alchemy led strips and can get them from quite a few sellers here in the uk. Only reason I didn't go in for them was because I thought they wouldn't fit! But seeing as you've re assured me I shall be picking up some asap!


----------



## borax

http://www.specialtech.co.uk/spshop/customer/Phobya-LED-Flexlight-HighDensity-120cm-Green--144x-SMD-LEDs-pid-14453.html

Would these be okay?


----------



## Gunilla95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *borax*
> 
> http://www.specialtech.co.uk/spshop/customer/Phobya-LED-Flexlight-HighDensity-120cm-Green--144x-SMD-LEDs-pid-14453.html
> 
> Would these be okay?


i think you have to peel of the plastic cover of it to get it fit


it gets pretty thight..


----------



## EnderUK

Okay built it today and its getting leaked test. I have one issue in that I have no idea how to route the fan leads on the bottom radiator not enough room to round the back and the front drive bay panel gets in the way if I try around the front. Any ideas?


----------



## Gunilla95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EnderUK*
> 
> Okay built it today and its getting leaked test. I have one issue in that I have no idea how to route the fan leads on the bottom radiator not enough room to round the back and the front drive bay panel gets in the way if I try around the front. Any ideas?


Do it like me. i made them longer. took about 4 min for each fan.


----------



## The Redtide

The beginnings of the "Build", but more accurately the "Non-Build" it would seem. Need some help here, am about at wits end. TIA

Case: Primo
CPU: 4770K
Cooler: Stock Intel
Mobo 1: Asus Maximus VI Formula
Mobo 2: MSI Z87-GD65
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws F3-2133C9Q-16GXL (4x4)
GPU: EVGA 780 SC x 2
PSU: Corsair AX1200
HDD: WD Raptor 300GB
Optical: HP DVD R/W

All excepting the HDD and optical are new.

Mobo 1: Codes: A2 - IDE Detect, AE - Legacy Boot Event, 99 - Super IO initialization. Plus multiple BSOD trying to install XP (have W7 upgrade). It would install XP to the point of where it said "Starting Windows" and then the BSOD. When attempting to use a perfectly functioning W7 install done on another PC a full OS scan requirement came up and after it was done it said that the problem could not be corrected. Then this same drive would no longer boot on another PC.

Mobo 2: Same as above plus ... "Warning - The current BIOS setting do not fully support the boot device. Press [F1] to enter the BIOS Setup. Go to Advanced > Boot > CSM Parameters, and adjust the CSM (Compatibility Support Module) settings to enable the boot device."

Never found the Compatibility Support Module. The path does not exist in the MSI BIOS.

BSOD for both mobos was: "Check for viruses on your computer. Remove any newly installed hard drives or hard drive controllers. Check your hard drive to make sure it is properly configured and terminated. Run CHKDSK /F to check for hard drive corruption, and then restart your computer."

BSOD code: "STOP: 0x0000007B (0xF78D2524, 0xC0000034, 0x00000000, 0x00000000)."


----------



## jassilamba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The Redtide*
> 
> The beginnings of the "Build", but more accurately the "Non-Build" it would seem. Need some help here, am about at wits end. TIA
> 
> Case: Primo
> CPU: 4770K
> Cooler: Stock Intel
> Mobo 1: Asus Maximus VI Formula
> Mobo 2: MSI Z87-GD65
> Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws F3-2133C9Q-16GXL (4x4)
> GPU: EVGA 780 SC x 2
> PSU: Corsair AX1200
> HDD: WD Raptor 300GB
> Optical: HP DVD R/W
> 
> All excepting the HDD and optical are new.
> 
> Mobo 1: Codes: A2 - IDE Detect, AE - Legacy Boot Event, 99 - Super IO initialization. Plus multiple BSOD trying to install XP (have W7 upgrade). It would install XP to the point of where it said "Starting Windows" and then the BSOD. When attempting to use a perfectly functioning W7 install done on another PC a full OS scan requirement came up and after it was done it said that the problem could not be corrected. Then this same drive would no longer boot on another PC.
> 
> Mobo 2: Same as above plus ... "Warning - The current BIOS setting do not fully support the boot device. Press [F1] to enter the BIOS Setup. Go to Advanced > Boot > CSM Parameters, and adjust the CSM (Compatibility Support Module) settings to enable the boot device."
> 
> Never found the Compatibility Support Module. The path does not exist in the MSI BIOS.
> 
> BSOD for both mobos was: "Check for viruses on your computer. Remove any newly installed hard drives or hard drive controllers. Check your hard drive to make sure it is properly configured and terminated. Run CHKDSK /F to check for hard drive corruption, and then restart your computer."
> 
> BSOD code: "STOP: 0x0000007B (0xF78D2524, 0xC0000034, 0x00000000, 0x00000000)."


I would suggest asking this question in the windows support threads here on OCN, but bottom line the issue seems to be the HDD. If you have a different HDD give it a shot, and see if that does the same thing.

GL with your build.


----------



## Roxycon

@The RedtideYou got the boot and install disk on a intel controlled port? Had almost the same issue with installing windows on my laptop where id uninstalled the optical to get two drives instead.. it was solved with moving the install to a drive that was full size and not laptop size (different rpm or something, dont know but that worked







)

Have you tried with an other os? Ubuntu or another distro of your liking


----------



## Pierre3400

Update on my Primo


----------



## Terminus14

Noob question: How exactly do I mount a radiator to the bottom of this case? Can it just sit there? The screws I have are all too long to just go through the case and into a radiator. Now if I was going

case>fan>radiator my screws would work perfectly but since I'm just going case>radiator, I'm at a loss.

Radiator is a 480 Monsta if anyone was wondering.

EDIT: Figured it out.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Terminus14*
> 
> Noob question: How exactly do I mount a radiator to the bottom of this case? Can it just sit there? The screws I have are all too long to just go through the case and into a radiator. Now if I was going
> 
> case>fan>radiator my screws would work perfectly but since I'm just going case>radiator, I'm at a loss.
> 
> Radiator is a 480 Monsta if anyone was wondering.


Screwing a rad to the bottom can be tricky since in most of the locations any screws protruding through the bottom are likely to interfere with the bottom filters.

I had my 360 monsta mounted down there in push-pull with screws through the case and fans then into the rad, and didn't have any problems with the filters, until I noticed that the screws had been pulled through the case at some point so my rad was just sitting down there unattached. I did finally manage to get a couple M3 flathead machine screws (I bought off ebay) to hold in a couple places and not get in the way of the filters, but even they seem to just barely be holding. The holes in the case they go through are almost as large as the screw heads, and I'm pretty sure I could pull the rad out, pulling the screws right through the holes, without much effort, but there's not enough room to add washers and it not hit the filters when trying to put them in/take them out.

All that to say, that if you do add screws you'll want to try to avoid the same pitfalls I ran into, and if you can get away with just sitting your 480 monsta down there without mounting it, then it might be a good idea. I'd be interested to hear what others did.


----------



## Terminus14

Ended up just going to Lowes and getting some short little M3 screws and some plastic washers. Works like a charm and the plastic will be a bit of anti vibration. The screws heads, like you said, just barely catch but the washers fix that right up.

Helps that I work at Lowes and got a discount on the already incredibly cheap hardware.


----------



## simsim44

My case was delivered today, man is this case big. I could fit my Chaser MK-I in it and still have room. It came without any problems, the case is flawless. very nice. did I mention it was big


----------



## Gabrielzm

Hi Guys,

finally started my build on the enthoo. I back order mine in August but only got here in November and all parts finally arrived in December. Here is pic with both pumps, all rads (480 mm, 280mm and 2x 240mm) installed along with a lot of the plumbing work. I created a log and will be updating as the work progresses so feel free to stop by and share comments. I am trying to document any difficulty I found during assembly along with (hopefully) tips for owner or prospective owners of this amazing case. Several things strike me on the build quality and engineering of this case but one in particular that left me







was the perfect fitting of the lateral 240mm rad with the lateral panel.










Build log
http://www.overclock.net/t/1458261/enthoo-primo-black-and-red-liquid-cooling#post_21585409

pictures:


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Terminus14*
> 
> Ended up just going to Lowes and getting some short little M3 screws and some plastic washers. Works like a charm and the plastic will be a bit of anti vibration. The screws heads, like you said, just barely catch but the washers fix that right up.
> 
> Helps that I work at Lowes and got a discount on the already incredibly cheap hardware.


The screws & washers don't interfere with the bottom filters? What type screw head are they?


----------



## Terminus14

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> The screws & washers don't interfere with the bottom filters? What type screw head are they?


Nope. The screws are just long enough to go through gasket + radiator + case.

Here's the bag the screws came in.
And the bag the washers came in.

Better to just link those than to try to explain what they are.

They work pretty nice. Here's a potato picture to show you a couple on the bottom of my case.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Terminus14*
> 
> Ended up just going to Lowes and getting some short little M3 screws and some plastic washers. Works like a charm and the plastic will be a bit of anti vibration. The screws heads, like you said, just barely catch but the washers fix that right up.
> 
> Helps that I work at Lowes and got a discount on the already incredibly cheap hardware.


I also used washers from Ace Hardware .... I used the little mounting platform tho as I only had a 280.


----------



## bond32

So, I spent pretty much most of the day yesterday re-doing my loop. Flipped both the 480 and 420 rads around so the ports are on the front. Decided I wanted a minimalistic look so now the majority of the tubing is hidden. Also went back to the bay res and put it in the second two bays from the bottom. Now it seems very quiet, whereas before I had it on the bottom two and it was quite noisy. I like this setup much better. Any tips, good or bad let me know:



Edit: I have pretty much baby'ed this case since I got it, but I periodically have random vibrations. Anyone else have this problem? The problem areas are the tool-less drive bay pieces, the pci slot covers, and something on the top fan filter/cover seems to buzz.


----------



## Roxycon

I use the original copper screws from alphacool wich are 30 mm on the side with the narrowest height on my 80 mm 480 filters have to be forced down the few times i take them out and some of them go through the holes of the case... sure is annoying to know that it isnt perfect underneath (ocd) but i wont be tossing the case around so much so i dont stress out on it









To anyone who have built a base for the case, could you provide me with dimensions for it? Im not too keen on having the case directly on the floor for the next lan







and i have also installed some under-case lightning to match inside and stock lightning id like to show off


----------



## Hereisphilly

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roxycon*
> 
> I use the original copper screws from alphacool wich are 30 mm on the side with the narrowest height on my 80 mm 480 filters have to be forced down the few times i take them out and some of them go through the holes of the case... sure is annoying to know that it isnt perfect underneath (ocd) but i wont be tossing the case around so much so i dont stress out on it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To anyone who have built a base for the case, could you provide me with dimensions for it? Im not too keen on having the case directly on the floor for the next lan
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and i have also installed some under-case lightning to match inside and stock lightning id like to show off


I can put a tape across the one doyll made for me and get you some dims if you'd like?
Will be able to do it this evening for ya


----------



## Roxycon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hereisphilly*
> 
> I can put a tape across the one doyll made for me and get you some dims if you'd like?
> Will be able to do it this evening for ya


That'd be awesome







thanks


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roxycon*
> 
> I use the original copper screws from alphacool wich are 30 mm on the side with the narrowest height on my 80 mm 480 filters have to be forced down the few times i take them out and some of them go through the holes of the case... sure is annoying to know that it isnt perfect underneath (ocd) but i wont be tossing the case around so much so i dont stress out on it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To anyone who have built a base for the case, could you provide me with dimensions for it? Im not too keen on having the case directly on the floor for the next lan
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and i have also installed some under-case lightning to match inside and stock lightning id like to show off


PM me your woodworking ability and I'll give you a hand building one.


----------



## doyll

PM sent.


----------



## Maldark

Hey guys! I'm just about to start installing stuff into my Phanteks Enthoo Primo, but there's one thing I am confused about. I've gotten an Alphacool XT45 480mm radiator for the top, but due to the .. copper screw-blocks things that closes off the fitting holes, it can't go 100% horizontal. Should I just screw in the screws although it is a bit off angle?

Here's a pic of the block things I am trying to describe:


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Maldark*
> 
> Hey guys! I'm just about to start installing stuff into my Phanteks Enthoo Primo, but there's one thing I am confused about. I've gotten an Alphacool XT45 480mm radiator for the top, but due to the .. copper screw-blocks things that closes off the fitting holes, it can't go 100% horizontal. Should I just screw in the screws although it is a bit off angle?
> 
> Here's a pic of the block things I am trying to describe:


I don´t think that is a problem. I have exactly the same rad installed in my case with fans on both sides. Check out the pictures in my log (see signature below).


----------



## OutlawII

What u mean are the copper plugs hitting the case? Do u have them tightened down all the way?


----------



## Maldark

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> I don´t think that is a problem. I have exactly the same rad installed in my case with fans on both sides. Check out the pictures in my log (see signature below).


Will do
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OutlawII*
> 
> What u mean are the copper plugs hitting the case? Do u have them tightened down all the way?


Ye they're tightened down now. It's the top of em that is hitting the case


----------



## OutlawII

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Maldark*
> 
> Will do
> Ye they're tightened down now. It's the top of em that is hitting the case


You will be fine DO IT!!! lol


----------



## Liqu1dShadow

Or drill the case out like I had to, then broke this radiator and replaced it with a Black Ice SR 480


----------



## OutlawII

Well i put the fans on top of my rad that way no worries about plug,and from what ive read pull works better than push in almost all cases


----------



## Liqu1dShadow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OutlawII*
> 
> Well i put the fans on top of my rad that way no worries about plug,and from what ive read pull works better than push in almost all cases


Agreed, but I have to run push as I wanted to see my fans


----------



## Maldark

What I was thinking about doing was to run it as push, and then use the 3 supplied Phanteks fans above it in the little fan-compartment, or the other way around. Would that be possible or?


----------



## Liqu1dShadow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Maldark*
> 
> What I was thinking about doing was to run it as push, and then use the 3 supplied Phanteks fans above it in the little fan-compartment, or the other way around. Would that be possible or?


You really wanna keep the fans the same


----------



## Maldark

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Liqu1dShadow*
> 
> You really wanna keep the fans the same


Just seems to be a shame for them to be wasted like that







But ye aight, i'll mount the 4 in pull then, thanks


----------



## Liqu1dShadow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Maldark*
> 
> Just seems to be a shame for them to be wasted like that
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But ye aight, i'll mount the 4 in pull then, thanks


Drill the case, takes 5 minutes (ill even give you the propper drill bit if you want lol)


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Maldark*
> 
> What I was thinking about doing was to run it as push, and then use the 3 supplied Phanteks fans above it in the little fan-compartment, or the other way around. Would that be possible or?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Liqu1dShadow*
> 
> You really wanna keep the fans the same


Actually not necessarily. I will link here a post by Martin on the subject:

http://www.overclock.net/t/1367654/swiftech-h220-h320-and-cm-glacer-240l-360l-owners-club/7640#post_21192812

Before ordering any other parts/fans Maldark try to set up the way you want (3x140 mm on top and whatever 120 mm fan on the bottom the way you imagined). I personally tested the front 140 mm along with GT AP15 in front and there is no noise or bad effect on mixing the two fans. Latter I changed to 2 x AP14 and 2x ap15 in front just because I want to use all 4 140mm Phanteks on the 280 mm at the bottom of the case.


----------



## OutlawII

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Liqu1dShadow*
> 
> Agreed, but I have to run push as I wanted to see my fans


Understood bro


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Liqu1dShadow*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Maldark*
> 
> What I was thinking about doing was to run it as push, and then use the 3 supplied Phanteks fans above it in the little fan-compartment, or the other way around. Would that be possible or?
> 
> 
> 
> You really wanna keep the fans the same
Click to expand...

Mixing fans in push-pull isn't a big deal. Martin (of martinsliquidlabs) even encourages it: (edit: Gabrielzm beat me to it







)
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Martinm210*
> 
> Absolutely, I encourage mixing of fans and have done it many times. The mixing fan phobia generate by forum members is really just another forum myth by users not knowing. I have yet to see any testing to show it being a problem. Actually I have found mixing two different fans to be a benefit at times. When testing the H220 I found two AP15s plus two Helix to be a great match. The helix alone seemed to have a little harmonic under pressure in push only that goes away and smooths out when the GTs were added. Also anytime you mix like fan speeds you can get rpm harmonics so having fans at speeds that are a few hundred off is a good thing.
> 
> Noctua even does mixing of fans and speeds on their NH-D14.
> 
> While it may not make sense to mix 5000rpm Deltas with 1200rpm yates, I sure wouldn't worry about 500rpm differences particularly when resistance like a radiator is keeping air flows well below either fans max air flow rate. Mixing fans is a good thing..


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OutlawII*
> 
> Well i put the fans on top of my rad that way no worries about plug,and from what ive read pull works better than push in almost all cases


FWIW, Martin's findings were that pull tends to work a little better at low speeds and push a little better at high speeds, and everything in the middle doesn't really matter either way, but in all instances push-pull, if you have room for it / can afford the extra fans, will provide substantial performance gains. ...
Quote:


> *Push Vs Pull* - This depends on fan speed/power. The high speed fans at 2000RPM with a 38mm fan thickness provided the best performance in a push condition. The slow speed fans with 1350RPM with a 25mm fan thickness provided the best performance in a pull condition. I would estimate that performance line is likely to cross in the 1500-1700RPM range where they are equal. So.... slow speed = pull, high speed = push, medium speed = it doesn't really matter.
> 
> *2 fans Push/Pull vs others* - It was very clear that when using two fans per radiator section, that the radiator intself acts as a flow spreader and provided great benefit to straightening out the air for the second fan in a push/pull configuration. Just like doubling up with a pump, there is a pressure benefit to doubling up on fans and this translates to about a 20-30% performance gain. The added fan pressure simply means and added gain in air flow and corresponding performance. None of the experimental pull/pull or push/push configurations provided any noteworthy benefit as it seams the air is simply too disturbed from the first fan to allow the second to perform properly when air is moving. I would always recommend a push/pull configuration for two fans and add a shroud to both sides if space allows.


It's worth noting here though that there are some fans, for example like the Noiseblocker eLoop, that are not designed to be used in pull.

Also, re: that last little bit in that quote from Martin where he recommends using a shroud, he debunked his shroud findings in a follow-up test where he used multiple radiators instead of just one. Sometimes there's gains to be had from using a shroud, and sometimes there's not.


----------



## chrisnyc75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Liqu1dShadow*
> 
> Agreed, but I have to run push as I wanted to see my fans


If I'm seeing your setup correctly you have every single fan set to exhaust air OUT OF your case....which is a very extreme negative pressure setup. You're gonna want to watch out for dust inside your components, it's almost guaranteed to become a problem.

What happens in those extreme negative pressure setups is that there's such an imbalance of airflow that air enters the case through any crack or crevice it can find, most of which are unfiltered. After a number of weeks you should start seeing a buildup of dust.... in a few months it will probably become an issue. Just fyi. Keep an eye on it. All those beautiful clean lines won't look so cute covered in dust.









p.s. reversing all of those fans would be a much better idea. That would create an extreme POSITIVE pressure situation where there's more air being pushed INTO the case than being exhausted out of it. In that case, air escapes OUT OF the case through any crack or crevice it can find, that way no unfiltered air ever enters the case at all (meaning NO DUST). If I were you, I'd paint the fan blades blood red so those colored rings don't even matter.


----------



## bond32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chrisnyc75*
> 
> If I'm seeing your setup correctly you have every single fan set to exhaust air OUT OF your case....which is a very extreme negative pressure setup. You're gonna want to watch out for dust inside your components, it's almost guaranteed to become a problem.
> 
> What happens in those extreme negative pressure setups is that there's such an imbalance of airflow that air enters the case through any crack or crevice it can find, most of which are unfiltered. After a number of weeks you should start seeing a buildup of dust.... in a few months it will probably become an issue. Just fyi. Keep an eye on it. All those beautiful clean lines won't look so cute covered in dust.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> p.s. reversing all of those fans would be a much better idea. That would create an extreme POSITIVE pressure situation where there's more air being pushed INTO the case than being exhausted out of it. In that case, air escapes OUT OF the case through any crack or crevice it can find, that way no unfiltered air ever enters the case at all (meaning NO DUST).


You are correct, but I think he went for the looks rather than airflow function. I mean, it looks darn sexy...


----------



## chrisnyc75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> You are correct, but I think he went for the looks rather than airflow function. I mean, it looks darn sexy...


Agreed. But it'll be a shame in a couple months to see all that sexiness covered in a layer of dust.

At the very least I'd recommend filtering the rear grate and front fans so the most obvious air intakes are somewhat clean.

As an alternative, some red Phobya e-loops would look amazing in there, AND be better for airflow.


----------



## Liqu1dShadow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chrisnyc75*
> 
> If I'm seeing your setup correctly you have every single fan set to exhaust air OUT OF your case....which is a very extreme negative pressure setup. You're gonna want to watch out for dust inside your components, it's almost guaranteed to become a problem.
> 
> What happens in those extreme negative pressure setups is that there's such an imbalance of airflow that air enters the case through any crack or crevice it can find, most of which are unfiltered. After a number of weeks you should start seeing a buildup of dust.... in a few months it will probably become an issue. Just fyi. Keep an eye on it. All those beautiful clean lines won't look so cute covered in dust.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> p.s. reversing all of those fans would be a much better idea. That would create an extreme POSITIVE pressure situation where there's more air being pushed INTO the case than being exhausted out of it. In that case, air escapes OUT OF the case through any crack or crevice it can find, that way no unfiltered air ever enters the case at all (meaning NO DUST). If I were you, I'd paint the fan blades blood red so those colored rings don't even matter.


What you can't soo in that pic is the 6 other 140mm fans blowing INTO the case, so I have slight + pressure as the 140mm intakes are going faster than the 120mm exhausts









Also I have fine mesh filters over every single hole in the case, even the full back of the chassis


----------



## chrisnyc75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Liqu1dShadow*
> 
> What you can't soo in that pic is the 6 other 140mm fans blowing INTO the case, so I have slight + pressure as the 140mm intakes are going faster than the 120mm exhausts
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also I have fine mesh filters over every single hole in the case, even the full back of the chassis


Cool, just wanted to make sure you understood the airflow dynamics of that setup. It's a gorgeous rig, gotta keep it pristine!


----------



## Hereisphilly

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roxycon*
> 
> That'd be awesome
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> thanks


Right, hope this helps!

220 x 580mm base, with a cutout that's 520 x 160mm in the middle, leaving 30mm of material all around the edges.
Doyll made mine from 9-10mm thick wood on 6 castors that raise it approx 45mm in the air.
Perfect fit for the Primo!

Apologies for my paint skills


----------



## Liqu1dShadow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chrisnyc75*
> 
> Cool, just wanted to make sure you understood the airflow dynamics of that setup. It's a gorgeous rig, gotta keep it pristine!


Thanks









Always have my cases + pressure, last one every fan was intake,







all fans spin off the same controller so if the 120's spin up so do all the 140's


----------



## Maldark

Hey again guys! I've just realized I was missing some fittings to get my drain loop set up so I've paused my "moving" into the new case : )

I have, however, not figured out entirely how I wish to set up my loop. I have an Alphacool 3way adapter, a bitspower valve as well as a set of bitspower quickdisconnects. What I'm thinking of doing is something along the lines of this:



But would it work? The thought is that when I wish to drain it, I simply connect the quickdisconnect male to the loop and turn the valve so that the water starts running in to the quickdisconnect tube.

Thanks guys : )

EDIT: I forgot the add the tubing to the male part of the QD, but point is that i'll have a tube there so that I can point it out of the case in a bowl or something


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Maldark*
> 
> What I was thinking about doing was to run it as push, and then use the 3 supplied Phanteks fans above it in the little fan-compartment, or the other way around. Would that be possible or?


The fans with teh case don't have the anti vibration pads..... the Phanteks fans ya buy in the box do. So ..... using the 3 case fans on one side of a 420 and 3 bought fans on the other is fine. If ya mix the two, it will be wobbly.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Maldark*
> 
> Hey again guys! I've just realized I was missing some fittings to get my drain loop set up so I've paused my "moving" into the new case : )
> 
> I have, however, not figured out entirely how I wish to set up my loop. I have an Alphacool 3way adapter, a bitspower valve as well as a set of bitspower quickdisconnects. What I'm thinking of doing is something along the lines of this:
> 
> 
> 
> But would it work? The thought is that when I wish to drain it, I simply connect the quickdisconnect male to the loop and turn the valve so that the water starts running in to the quickdisconnect tube.
> 
> Thanks guys : )
> 
> EDIT: I forgot the add the tubing to the male part of the QD, but point is that i'll have a tube there so that I can point it out of the case in a bowl or something


I don't quite get the valve AND disconnect ..... one of either generally serves the purpose. As shown in the figure, its also appears that the drain is well above the rad so how do you "drain the rad " ?

I am more accustomed to this .... with just a disconnect ......



Or where the bottom line comes out straight towards us looking at the picture with a tee and then a valve on the branch side of the tee.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Maldark*
> 
> Hey guys! I'm just about to start installing stuff into my Phanteks Enthoo Primo, but there's one thing I am confused about. I've gotten an Alphacool XT45 480mm radiator for the top, but due to the .. copper screw-blocks things that closes off the fitting holes, it can't go 100% horizontal. Should I just screw in the screws although it is a bit off angle?
> 
> Here's a pic of the block things I am trying to describe:


That was one of the reasons I went with the 420 over the 480 ....they don't hit the case frame



But ya can use gaskets to give ya a lil room to even things out .... will also cut down on vibration

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/17863/ex-rad-467/XSPC_4_x_120mm_Radiator_Gasket_-_3mm.html?tl=g30c429s2039

Also come in 5mm and 10mm thick sizes from Phobya

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Liqu1dShadow*
> 
> Thanks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Always have my cases + pressure, last one every fan was intake,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> all fans spin off the same controller so if the 120's spin up so do all the 140's


I pay absolutely no attention to positive / negative pressure.....I just make sure whatever way it winds up..... intakes are filtered..... or room is









Right now the Phanteks filters / inlet config are costing me .....to t he tune of 4C

Didn't notice it till one day I looked at my temp monitors and say the 280 dropping the water 1.3C and the top 420 dropping it 0.9C .... shuda been other way around.


----------



## Maldark

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> The fans with teh case don't have the anti vibration pads..... the Phanteks fans ya buy in the box do. So ..... using the 3 case fans on one side of a 420 and 3 bought fans on the other is fine. If ya mix the two, it will be wobbly.
> I don't quite get the valve AND disconnect ..... one of either generally serves the purpose. As shown in the figure, its also appears that the drain is well above the rad so how do you "drain the rad " ?
> 
> I am more accustomed to this .... with just a disconnect ......
> 
> 
> 
> Or where the bottom line comes out straight towards us looking at the picture with a tee and then a valve on the branch side of the tee.
> That was one of the reasons I went with the 420 over the 480 ....they don't hit the case frame
> 
> 
> 
> But ya can use gaskets to give ya a lil room to even things out .... will also cut down on vibration
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/17863/ex-rad-467/XSPC_4_x_120mm_Radiator_Gasket_-_3mm.html?tl=g30c429s2039
> 
> Also come in 5mm and 10mm thick sizes from Phobya
> I pay absolutely no attention to positive / negative pressure.....I just make sure whatever way it winds up..... intakes are filtered..... or room is
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Right now the Phanteks filters / inlet config are costing me .....to t he tune of 4C
> 
> Didn't notice it till one day I looked at my temp monitors and say the 280 dropping the water 1.3C and the top 420 dropping it 0.9C .... shuda been other way around.


Hi there and thank you for your response, greatly appreciated









I've got 7x AP-15 fans to use and I've just taken the included fans out although it seems like a pity to do.

The idea of the valve was to force the water to go that way, but your way seems much better as I would have to unmount the rad to empty it. Sadly the radiator in the bottom of the case is an ST30 which means there are only two connection threads on top : (

I'll look into getting one of those gaskets if I feel it is needed









Kind regards


----------



## The Redtide

Issue resolved! Took mobo back (local store) and replaced it with another MSI Z87-GD65. Zero issues loading XP, W7P and was up and running in the time it took to load the OSs. Great mobo so far. Both the Asus VI Formula and the 1st MSI Z87-GD65 remain problematic as the computer store is experiencing the same issues I did. It was simply luck of the draw on the mobos.

Now to replace the WD Raptor with a Plextor M5M PX-256M5M mSATA 256GB as the boot and continue with this build, which is mine, another for my nephew and a refurbishing of a trusty 775 (2xGTX285SC) that I can't bring myself to part with.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Maldark*
> 
> Hi there and thank you for your response, greatly appreciated
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've got 7x AP-15 fans to use and I've just taken the included fans out although it seems like a pity to do.
> 
> The idea of the valve was to force the water to go that way, but your way seems much better as I would have to unmount the rad to empty it. *Sadly the radiator in the bottom of the case is an ST30 which means there are only two connection threads on top* : (
> 
> I'll look into getting one of those gaskets if I feel it is needed
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Kind regards


An alphacool ST30 has 4 inlet/outlet ports, 2 each facing top or bottom. If you're using the top-facing ones for your loop I assume you have the two copper stop plugs in the other bottom two, so if you wanted to have a drain similar to Jacks you should be able to use one of those.

For example, I have my bottom 360 in push-pull with the ports towards the front of the case and after trying many different fittings I finally found two different 90 degree rotaries that make the turn in the 25mm space that the bottom fan provides, and that let me run my drain port out one of the bottom-facing ports from my rad right next to the HDD cages like so ...



The 90 degree fitting I'm using is this one from Phobya. It's ugly and doesn't match anything in my build, but it's hidden from view where it is and it seems much more well-built / trustworthy than the other 90 degree fitting from Koolance I found that would also work.

I tried several other 90 degree rotary fittings from Bitspower and Swiftech and Alphacool and Enzotech, & so on and none of the others I found would make the turn in less than the 25mm space the bottom fans give.

Screwed into that 90 degree fitting I have a bitspower male-to-male rotary fitting and then the Bitspower mini-valve and a stop plug.


----------



## Maldark

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> An alphacool ST30 has 4 inlet/outlet ports, 2 each facing top or bottom. If you're using the top-facing ones for your loop I assume you have the two copper stop plugs in the other bottom two, so if you wanted to have a drain similar to Jacks you should be able to use one of those.
> 
> For example, I have my bottom 360 in push-pull with the ports towards the front of the case and after trying many different fittings I finally found two different 90 degree rotaries that make the turn in the 25mm space that the bottom fan provides, and that let me run my drain port out one of the bottom-facing ports from my rad right next to the HDD cages like so ...
> 
> 
> 
> The 90 degree fitting I'm using is this one from Phobya. It's ugly and doesn't match anything in my build, but it's hidden from view where it is and it seems much more well-built / trustworthy than the other 90 degree fitting from Koolance I found that would also work.
> 
> I tried several other 90 degree rotary fittings from Bitspower and Swiftech and Alphacool and Enzotech, & so on and none of the others I found would make the turn in less than the 25mm space the bottom fans give.
> 
> Screwed into that 90 degree fitting I have a bitspower male-to-male rotary fitting and then the Bitspower mini-valve and a stop plug.


Thank you for your input, but my 120mm as well as my 240mm ST30 only has two ports each on the top of it :/


----------



## DancingOnAshes

So, I got my Primo yesterday and am now waiting for my GTX waterblock before I begin the move, and I have a question; My theme for the build is green/acidic, and I'm wondering on how to deal with the blue highlights along the side and top as well as the blue fans in the front, the fans are easy to move, but how do I deal with the blue lights along the side and top?


----------



## doyll

Anybody know what this connector is called and what it's technical name / part number is?
 

It's the connector on the LED light strip. Plug end on bottom of image is the LED end.

Will put it in our FAQ as once I know exactly what it is. That way we can make light strips with new plug.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Maldark*
> 
> Thank you for your input, but my 120mm as well as my 240mm ST30 only has two ports each on the top of it :/


I stand corrected. Every ST30 I've looked at before has had 4 ports. I assumed they all do. That's one of the best things about Alphacool's rads is the usefulness of the extra ports they're known for. I didn't realize they were stingy with them on the smaller slims.


----------



## Maldark

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> I stand corrected. Every ST30 I've looked at before has had 4 ports. I assumed they all do. That's one of the best things about Alphacool's rads is the usefulness of the extra ports they're known for. I didn't realize they were stingy with them on the smaller slims.


Yes it kinda sucks to be honest







I just can't justify buying an XT45 240mm rad when I've already got a 240mm rad to use.

Anyway if you look at my initial post though (http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/1845287/), what do you think of that drain system? Would adding the valve make any difference as it would "force" the water to flow through the QuickDisconnect route or should I just leave that out?


----------



## DancingOnAshes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Anybody know what this connector is called and what it's technical name / part number is?
> 
> 
> It's the connector on the LED light strip. Plug end on bottom of image is the LED end.
> 
> Will put it in our FAQ as once I know exactly what it is. That way we can make light strips with new plug.


Looks like a normal 2 pin fan connector.


----------



## doyll

I think you are right DancingOnAshes








That thought crossed my mind (as small as it is) so tried a 3-pin fan on it. Plugs on like a 4-pin fan plugs onto a 3-pin header... now to see if I have an old 2-pin fan anywhere to check.. Couldn't find one in my boxes of "treasures".









Thanks! Great minds and all.. even if mine is small.









Can someone verify it is a 2-pin fan plug socket?


----------



## DancingOnAshes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> I think you are right DancingOnAshes
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That thought crossed my mind (as small as it is) so tried a 3-pin fan on it. Plugs on like a 4-pin fan plugs onto a 3-pin header... now to see if I have an old 2-pin fan anywhere to check.. Couldn't find one in my boxes of "treasures".
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks! Great minds and all.. even if mine is small.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Can someone verify it is a 2-pin fan plug socket?


http://www.watercoolinguk.co.uk/cat/2-Pin-Fan-Connectors_145.html


----------



## Gunilla95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DancingOnAshes*
> 
> So, I got my Primo yesterday and am now waiting for my GTX waterblock before I begin the move, and I have a question; My theme for the build is green/acidic, and I'm wondering on how to deal with the blue highlights along the side and top as well as the blue fans in the front, the fans are easy to move, but how do I deal with the blue lights along the side and top?


theres a FAQ for that on the first page.
you can easely remove them i places an RGB there instead.


EDIT: Just saw the link isnt working here you are.
http://themodzoo.com/forum/index.php?/topic/883-enthoo-primo-front-led-color-change/


----------



## DancingOnAshes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gunilla95*
> 
> theres a FAQ for that on the first page.
> you can easely remove them i places an RGB there instead.
> 
> 
> EDIT: Just saw the link isnt working here you are.
> http://themodzoo.com/forum/index.php?/topic/883-enthoo-primo-front-led-color-change/


Ah, my bad. Skimmed the FAQ and missed that one. Thank you.


----------



## Gunilla95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DancingOnAshes*
> 
> Ah, my bad. Skimmed the FAQ and missed that one. Thank you.


your welcome my friend!


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Maldark*
> 
> Thank you for your input, but my 120mm as well as my 240mm ST30 only has two ports each on the top of it :/


There seems to be a lot of this going around of late ..... in another thread, I was told that the XT45 didn't have drain port on the other side .... but my XT45does.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Anybody know what this connector is called and what it's technical name / part number is?
> 
> 
> It's the connector on the LED light strip. Plug end on bottom of image is the LED end.
> 
> Will put it in our FAQ as once I know exactly what it is. That way we can make light strips with new plug.


I bought them .... I only bought one .... JST Connector from China .... cost $2.50 delivers ..... a pack of $100 is $10









Enthoo LED PCB Connector Factop 2Pin Male Female Waterproof JST Wire LED Light Strips Connector Cable Lamp
http://www.amazon.com/Factop-Female-Waterproof-Strips-Connector/dp/B00FWJAMBG/ref=sr_1_34?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1383590899&sr


----------



## THC Butterz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pierre3400*
> 
> Update on my Primo


why isnt that motherboard in the loop? all you need to do is screw in fittings right?


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> I bought them .... I only bought one .... JST Connector from China .... cost $2.50 delivers ..... a pack of $100 is $10
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Enthoo LED PCB Connector Factop 2Pin Male Female Waterproof JST Wire LED Light Strips Connector Cable Lamp
> http://www.amazon.com/Factop-Female-Waterproof-Strips-Connector/dp/B00FWJAMBG/ref=sr_1_34?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1383590899&sr


Interesting.. Amazon link is not the same connector as in my EP.


This is what the LED power connector looks like in my case. Power is on the female side, not the usual male side as used on fans.


----------



## Pierre3400

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *THC Butterz*
> 
> why isnt that motherboard in the loop? all you need to do is screw in fittings right?


That is indeed true, but the stock block is made of aluminium, which corrodes copper, and all my blocks and rads are copper, im not adding it in my loop.

Is it cover with somthing that they say makes them safe to use in the loop with copper, but i dont even want to risk it. Im saving up to get EK blocks.


----------



## Maldark

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Maldark*
> 
> Hey again guys! I've just realized I was missing some fittings to get my drain loop set up so I've paused my "moving" into the new case : )
> 
> I have, however, not figured out entirely how I wish to set up my loop. I have an Alphacool 3way adapter, a bitspower valve as well as a set of bitspower quickdisconnects. What I'm thinking of doing is something along the lines of this:
> 
> 
> 
> But would it work? The thought is that when I wish to drain it, I simply connect the quickdisconnect male to the loop and turn the valve so that the water starts running in to the quickdisconnect tube.
> 
> Thanks guys : )
> 
> EDIT: I forgot the add the tubing to the male part of the QD, but point is that i'll have a tube there so that I can point it out of the case in a bowl or something


I'm sorry for bumping, but as I am going to assemble the rig tomorrow, I'd very much like your view on this^


----------



## simsim44

I just went to fit this in the bottom, but, It won't go it's too wide by 2 or 3 mm.

http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/swmcqupo3xbl.html

If I get a different rad will I still have the same issue, I mean is this one just a fluke and soldered a little big. or should I just go to a different manufacture


----------



## owcraftsman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *simsim44*
> 
> I just went to fit this in the bottom, but, It won't go it's too wide by 2 or 3 mm.
> 
> http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/swmcqupo3xbl.html
> 
> If I get a different rad will I still have the same issue, I mean is this one just a fluke and soldered a little big. or should I just go to a different manufacture


I have a monsta 360 in the bottom of mine it's 124mm Wide and fits w/maybe 1 or 2 mm to spare but not enough for the 128mm width of that rad sadly.


----------



## simsim44

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *owcraftsman*
> 
> I have a monsta 360 in the bottom of mine it's 124mm Wide and fits w/maybe 1 or 2 mm to spare but not enough for the 128mm width of that rad sadly.


yea it's more like 129, 129.5, more than the case will allow, damnit man!... oh well I was trying to keep the cooling dollars down to a minimum, as I spent a ton on everything else lol.


----------



## owcraftsman

The Alphacool NexXxos UT60 is a top performing rad reasonably priced and will definitely fit at $99 it's actually a good value. Sell the one you have to help pay for it. I wouldn't go with anything less in that space. The monsta is overkill really but I got a good deal on a used one which is another good alternative you might consider.

http://hardforum.com/showthread.php?t=1801270&highlight=360+radiator (121mm wide) GL


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Maldark*
> 
> I'm sorry for bumping, but as I am going to assemble the rig tomorrow, I'd very much like your view on this^


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Interesting.. Amazon link is not the same connector as in my EP.
> 
> 
> This is what the LED power connector looks like in my case. Power is on the female side, not the usual male side as used on fans.


It works...plugs right in. In order for a cnnector to work, doesn't it have to have power and gtound on both ends ?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pierre3400*
> 
> That is indeed true, but the stock block is made of aluminium, which corrodes copper, and all my blocks and rads are copper, im not adding it in my loop.
> 
> Is it cover with somthing that they say makes them safe to use in the loop with copper, but i dont even want to risk it. Im saving up to get EK blocks.


1. I am sorry but that is pure FUD and actually scientifically impossible. Aluminum is the less noble of the 2 metals ..... in the presence of copper and bare aluminum, aluminum will experience galvanic corrosion....electrons will flow from the aluminum to the copper, thereby resulting in corrosion to the aluminum..... the aluminum oxides will be drawn to the copper and if present can simply be cleaned to "brand new" condition.

2. The aluminum would act as a sacrificial anode (see wikipedia) much like the zinc on an outboard motor.... the reason they call it "sacrificial" is that the zinc / aluminum as the less noble metal sacrifices itself and thereby provides galvanic protection to the copper.....in other words the cooper is actually protected from corrosion due to the presence of aluminum.

3. Galvanic corrosion requires one of two things to be occur.

a) The two metals must be in contact (that condition does not exist)
b) The must be an electrolyte ..... Distilled water is not an electrolyte so that condition does not exist. Now it is possible over time that ions could be introduced to the loop via shedding of all the metals.... but if you are using a corrosion inhibitor, again, this condition would be non existent.

4. Anodized aluminum has superior corrosion resistance. That is why it is so often used in the marine industry on boats. I have been using anodized aluminum in highly corrosive environments for over 25 years with only 1 instance of corrosion.... when some numbskull substituted SS bolts for the aluminum ones that came with the product....and not only did he create direct contact of dissimilar metals, he also over torqued them cracking both the anodized surface and deforming the plate.

5. Anodizing creates a very hard surface, you would have to put a concerted effort with a sharp pointie hard metal thing to scratch deep enough thru it to cause a concern.

6. Asus warrants the aluminum block, if it corrodes, they have to replace it .... Gigabyte is also using AA blocks on the Sniper.....and they will give you a new board if it corrodes...... no they won't replace anything else cause, again, if ya took em to court, they'd parade a list of expert witnesses who will testify that it is scientifically impossible. Do ya really think that these companies would risk replacing these $300 and up boards without thoroughly thinking this thru and testing it ?

7. You have more to fear from galvanic corrosion between the brass and copper in ya Rad ..... that *is* direct metal to metal contact.... or from the EK nickel deplating* then ya do the an anodized aluminum block. * NOTE: The problem with EK blocks is well known, was indentified quickly and promptly corrected by EK..... still a few get thru now and then and EK has been very 'stand up" and replaced every one of them. It would in now way prevent my from buying an EK block (I have 3 of them in my siggie) but I worry less about the anodized aluminum in the MoBo block then I do about the Ek block. But it happens.

http://www.overclock.net/t/584302/ocn-water-cooling-club-and-picture-gallery/59210#post_21617652

8. Most people when they repeat this false rumor use the thread right here in OCN that depicts the story of plain aluminum and copper. They point to the pics and say "look at all that corrosion" .... but what they haven't done is :

a) Recognize the aluminum and anodized aluminum are two different things

b) Read the actual text with the pics where it says ..... all the aluminum oxides that were floating around in the loop from the copper corroding wound up clogging up my copper water block...... but it cleaned right off and when done was as good as new.

In short, the laws of physics and chemistry would have to be suspended for any corrosion of copper blocks to occur. The chance of copper blocks corroding in the presence of aluminum is smaller not larger when aluminum is present. Let me apologize if my response came across as harsh but I think blondie here had a role in this rumor becoming so prevalent.














I have posted similar responses no less than 2 dozen times and in each case the answer was "I read it on the internet".... many even provide links to the opost which links to a post and the only documented one so far is the one here that shows the copper block was "as good as new".

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Maldark*
> 
> I'm sorry for bumping, but as I am going to assemble the rig tomorrow, I'd very much like your view on this^


I'm sorry, gave ya my input which prolly was mirrored by others so they didn't repeat .... did ya have another question ?


----------



## Liqu1dShadow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> It works...plugs right in. In order for a cnnector to work, doesn't it have to have power and gtound on both ends ?
> 1. I am sorry but that is pure FUD and actually scientifically impossible. Aluminum is the less noble of the 2 metals ..... in the presence of copper and bare aluminum, aluminum will experience galvanic corrosion....electrons will flow from the aluminum to the copper, thereby resulting in corrosion to the aluminum..... the aluminum oxides will be drawn to the copper and if present can simply be cleaned to "brand new" condition.
> 
> 2. The aluminum would act as a sacrificial anode (see wikipedia) much like the zinc on an outboard motor.... the reason they call it "sacrificial" is that the zinc / aluminum as the less noble metal sacrifices itself and thereby provides galvanic protection to the copper.....in other words the cooper is actually protected from corrosion due to the presence of aluminum.
> 
> 3. Galvanic corrosion requires one of two things to be occur.
> 
> a) The two metals must be in contact (that condition does not exist)
> b) The must be an electrolyte ..... Distilled water is not an electrolyte so that condition does not exist. Now it is possible over time that ions could be introduced to the loop via shedding of all the metals.... but if you are using a corrosion inhibitor, again, this condition would be non existent.
> 
> 4. Anodized aluminum has superior corrosion resistance. That is why it is so often used in the marine industry on boats. I have been using anodized aluminum in highly corrosive environments for over 25 years with only 1 instance of corrosion.... when some numbskull substituted SS bolts for the aluminum ones that came with the product....and not only did he create direct contact of dissimilar metals, he also over torqued them cracking both the anodized surface and deforming the plate.
> 
> 5. Anodizing creates a very hard surface, you would have to put a concerted effort with a sharp pointie hard metal thing to scratch deep enough thru it to cause a concern.
> 
> 6. Asus warrants the aluminum block, if it corrodes, they have to replace it .... Gigabyte is also using AA blocks on the Sniper.....and they will give you a new board if it corrodes...... no they won't replace anything else cause, again, if ya took em to court, they'd parade a list of expert witnesses who will testify that it is scientifically impossible. Do ya really think that these companies would risk replacing these $300 and up boards without thoroughly thinking this thru and testing it ?
> 
> 7. You have more to fear from galvanic corrosion between the brass and copper in ya Rad ..... that *is* direct metal to metal contact.... or from the EK nickel deplating* then ya do the an anodized aluminum block. * NOTE: The problem with EK blocks is well known, was indentified quickly and promptly corrected by EK..... still a few get thru now and then and EK has been very 'stand up" and replaced every one of them. It would in now way prevent my from buying an EK block (I have 3 of them in my siggie) but I worry less about the anodized aluminum in the MoBo block then I do about the Ek block. But it happens.
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/584302/ocn-water-cooling-club-and-picture-gallery/59210#post_21617652
> 
> 8. Most people when they repeat this false rumor use the thread right here in OCN that depicts the story of plain aluminum and copper. They point to the pics and say "look at all that corrosion" .... but what they haven't done is :
> 
> a) Recognize the aluminum and anodized aluminum are two different things
> 
> b) Read the actual text with the pics where it says ..... all the aluminum oxides that were floating around in the loop from the copper corroding wound up clogging up my copper water block...... but it cleaned right off and when done was as good as new.
> 
> In short, the laws of physics and chemistry would have to be suspended for any corrosion of copper blocks to occur. The chance of copper blocks corroding in the presence of aluminum is smaller not larger when aluminum is present. Let me apologize if my response came across as harsh but I think blondie here had a role in this rumor becoming so prevalent.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have posted similar responses no less than 2 dozen times and in each case the answer was "I read it on the internet".... many even provide links to the opost which links to a post and the only documented one so far is the one here that shows the copper block was "as good as new".
> I'm sorry, gave ya my input which prolly was mirrored by others so they didn't repeat .... did ya have another question ?


So add it to the loop because if something does corrode which it will, it's "easy to clean"?

I'd rather not be cleaning anything and tearing down my loop, new coolant and leak checks,

His mobo will run hotter on water, mine ran at 18 on air and 29 on water (amb 15oC) as the water is warmer than the mobo parts would have got on air, but it looks nicer









Reading about that std block and the problems it creates under water I would leave it on air till you have your EK's


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

I don't know about the anodized aluminum block on the MIVF, maybe the anodizing is magical compared to my previous experiences, but I wouldn't use it. If I wanted to cool that board I'd buy the waterblocks EK recently released for it.

Those anodized aluminum fittings Danger Den used to sell - you can still find them for sale all over the place - would cause a corrosion explosion in no time. We (my brother and I) used them along with an ethylene glycol coolant and within 6-7 months time you couldn't take any of the fittings loose without destroying the threads on the fittings and whatever they were screwed into. We found corrosion from the fittings had been breaking away and clogging the fins in his CPU block and you could see tons of the stuff shining a light down into the rads that no amount of flushing ever got rid of. We filled-shaked-drained many many times and all it did was move the particles around in there. Hooked it up to the sink and after hours of wasting water through it the pieces coming out of it never stopped. The whole loop was a complete loss thanks to 6 or 8 of those anodized aluminum fittings. I think my brother was able to clean and re-use the pump was all.

There were MANY similar accounts posted all over boards like these about those fittings and other anodized aluminum parts - like manifolds - that many people were using at the time. There's good reason no one uses that stuff any more and why all the boards discussing ASUS' decision to go with an aluminum water channel on the MIVF were met with shock and disbelief.


----------



## simsim44

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *owcraftsman*
> 
> The Alphacool NexXxos UT60 is a top performing rad reasonably priced and will definitely fit at $99 it's actually a good value. Sell the one you have to help pay for it. I wouldn't go with anything less in that space. The monsta is overkill really but I got a good deal on a used one which is another good alternative you might consider.
> http://hardforum.com/showthread.php?t=1801270&highlight=360+radiator (121mm wide) GL


Thanks I was trying to use some of the stuff I had laying around from a build in 2008, the whole saving money concept, but then again I have never been good at that so why start now LOL. I will be going with the 30mm thick rad for the latent heat transfer at low speed fan efficiency. Guess I could try and sell this stuff. 

Thanks.


----------



## jassilamba

Man its nice to see so many nice Enthoo builds starting to show up. Great work by a lot so far.

I no longer have the Enthoo case, but hope you guys don't mind me popping in here every now and then and saying hi.

Great work keeping up the thread Doyll.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jassilamba*
> 
> Man its nice to see so many nice Enthoo builds starting to show up. Great work by a lot so far.
> 
> I no longer have the Enthoo case, but hope you guys don't mind me popping in here every now and then and saying hi.
> 
> Great work keeping up the thread Doyll.


Wondered what happened to you. Good to see you drop in once in awhile. You are always welcome here Jesse.









As for keeping up the thread.. It's not me. All I did wast start a thread. The great work keeping up the tread is done by everyone who posts your rigs and helpful knowledge here.


----------



## simsim44

It's a shame I have to go through half the day before I hear that sound...........the sound of my head popping out of my arse , I assembled this then I noticed something was wrong with the picture.



gotta put one set of fans on the top of the case, Damnit man.


----------



## Sunciq

Made an account to post a question.

Looking for a new case and the Phanteks Enthoo Primo got my eye. Before I buy the case I have a question for a current "Phanteks Enthoo Primo" owner with an Corsair Professional Series AX1200i PSU.

Does the AX1200i fit? It's a big PSU and I wonder if the FAN intake on the Phanteks Enthoo Primo is lined up correctly with the FAN on the AX1200i. Can somebody share his/her experience, perhaps with pictures?

Appreciate your support.


----------



## jassilamba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sunciq*
> 
> Made an account to post a question.
> 
> Looking for a new case and the Phanteks Enthoo Primo got my eye. Before I buy the case I have a question for a current "Phanteks Enthoo Primo" owner with an Corsair Professional Series AX1200i PSU.
> 
> Does the AX1200i fit? It's a big PSU and I wonder if the FAN intake on the Phanteks Enthoo Primo is lined up correctly with the FAN on the AX1200i. Can somebody share his/her experience, perhaps with pictures?
> 
> Appreciate your support.


If you check out the review on the Enthoo Primo over at the themodzoo.com you can see that I used the AX 1200i for my review/build. The PSU fits without any issue, and the vents line perfectly.


----------



## Sunciq

Thank your for your quick repley jassilamba. My answer has been answered.
Many thanks.


----------



## THC Butterz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *simsim44*
> 
> It's a shame I have to go through half the day before I hear that sound...........the sound of my head popping out of my arse , I assembled this then I noticed something was wrong with the picture.
> 
> 
> 
> gotta put one set of fans on the top of the case, Damnit man.


classic Face-Palm... lol


----------



## Roxycon

Did we get small m3 screws with the case? Just long enough to fasten the rad to the case.. and do someone know if a 140 fan above these screws (will be used for a 480 rad) in push intake would clear the heads if we got screws appropriate boundled with the enthoo


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roxycon*
> 
> Did we get small m3 screws with the case? Just long enough to fasten the rad to the case.. and do someone know if a 140 fan above these screws (will be used for a 480 rad) in push intake would clear the heads if we got screws appropriate boundled with the enthoo


The accessories box that comes with the Enthoo Primo includes 28 M3x5mm screws. They are the motherboard screws, so you probably already used almost half of them just for that, and more if you used any of the others to secure your SSDs into the brackets. But you lost me on how you would be able to secure a fan above them if the short screws were going through the case into the rad. The screws have a washer-head, so they aren't going to sit perfectly flat if that's what you mean.


----------



## Roxycon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> The accessories box that comes with the Enthoo Primo includes 28 M3x5mm screws. They are the motherboard screws, so you probably already used almost half of them just for that, and more if you used any of the others to secure your SSDs into the brackets. But you lost me on how you would be able to secure a fan above them if the short screws were going through the case into the rad. The screws have a washer-head, so they aren't going to sit perfectly flat if that's what you mean.


Doubt i can explain it any better, but 11 screws should be more than plenty







cant wait for my next teardown now

I think the 140 fans on the 480 rad is a better solution than cutting the case to accomodate my rad the right way


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roxycon*
> 
> Doubt i can explain it any better, but 11 screws should be more than plenty
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> cant wait for my next teardown now
> 
> I think the 140 fans on the 480 rad is a better solution than cutting the case to accomodate my rad the right way


Now you really lost me. lol.

I've had no probs at all putting a 480 in the top of mine, but then again I did cut holes in the top so I could have access to the top ports on the rad to use as fill ports. It still fit just fine before I cut the holes though. I must have missed whatever issues you were having. Mounting 140 fans on a 480 rad seems like not such a good idea to me though.



Air pressure leak test on my preliminary loop. Still waiting on my RIVB3 waterblocks to get here so I can finish it up right.


----------



## owcraftsman

Just a note for those who bought there case from the NewEgg and who mailed in for there $20 Rebate, I sent mine in 6 weeks ago and got my check today in the mail.

On a not so happy note It's been over two weeks and still no response from support about my foggy side panel glass or the PWM Hub. However I used the live chat today they claimed my submission could not be found and asked for additional pictures to be sent other than the ones I posted here in this thread so we'll see what happens there. My camera isn't the greatest and really doesn't illustrate how poor the quality of the glass really is in person.

Back to happy news again I was told in that same chat session that PWM Hubs will become available at their web site in March and pre-orders will be accepted at some point but not yet. Either way the support rep felt there will be sufficient quantities that they won't run out once they receive the shipment.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *owcraftsman*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Just a note for those who bought there case from the NewEgg and who mailed in for there $20 Rebate, I sent mine in 6 weeks ago and got my check today in the mail.
> 
> On a not so happy note It's been over two weeks and still no response from support about my foggy side panel glass or the PWM Hub. However I used the live chat today they claimed my submission could not be found and asked for additional pictures to be sent other than the ones I posted here in this thread so we'll see what happens there. My camera isn't the greatest and really doesn't illustrate how poor the quality of the glass really is in person.
> 
> 
> 
> Back to happy news again I was told in that same chat session that PWM Hubs will become available at their web site in March and pre-orders will be accepted at some point but not yet. Either way the support rep felt there will be sufficient quantities that they won't run out once they receive the shipment.


That's good news, even though I'm not using the hub I have let alone looking for another any more I know others have been. I am interested in getting another of the SSD brackets though. Guess I'll have to hit up their chat or their forum to find out about that.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> 
> 
> Air pressure leak test on my preliminary loop. Still waiting on my RIVB3 waterblocks to get here so I can finish it up right.


I had wondered why nobody was using air to leak test.








Looks like you are using about 8psi?


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> I had wondered why nobody was using air to leak test.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Looks like you are using about 8psi?


Yeah, the consensus was that 7-8 PSI is more pressure than a loop will ever see under load, yet still safely below what watercooling parts can handle.

On advice from B Negative and Darlene (IT Diva) who put together a how-to of sorts, among others, and especially after seeing Luna P burn up a brand new pump when he fired it up to do his leak-test due to a leak that an air pressure test would have discovered, I decided to put together a way to air pressure test my loops instead of playing Russian Roulette with thousands of dollars of gear by putting down paper towels and crossing my fingers the way I'd always done it before.

I went a simpler / much cheaper route than B Negative or IT Diva suggested though. I spent about $25 in all on a 1/4 NPT threaded Schrader valve and a 30 PSI gauge and fitted them into Koolance G 1/4" Male to NPT 1/4" Female adapters so they can be screwed into any available port in my loop. I use a compressor to pump it up (with a regulator dialed way down so I don't chance adding more than 10 PSI under any circumstances), but any bicycle pump would have worked just as well.

*Edit:*
A heads-up though. Those Koolance adapters suck. It took several tries, and adding more and more teflon tape and torquing it down way more than should have ever been necessary. Seriously! By the time I got them to seal up leak-free @ 10 PSI I was turning them just about as hard as I could with one end in a vice and a long handle wrench on the other, and thought for sure towards the end there that I was going to split open one of the fittings before they would ever seal up, but they eventually did. They are never ever coming apart now though.

IT Diva tried to warn me the threads on those Koolance fittings were junk, but I really didn't want to believe they could be that bad until I got them and found out for myself. I didn't manage to find any other 1/4 NPT to G1/4 adapters though for anywhere near the same price, so I was determined to make them work. The next option for me was going to be to coat the male threads with Gorilla Glue and seal them together. I'm confident that would have worked, but if not then I was going to bite the bullet and spend quite a bit more and order everything to set it up the way IT Diva had suggested doing in the first place. I believe she had mentioned spending ~$100 on her contraption though.


----------



## doyll

I agree with the 8psi. Think if I was building one it would have a piece of hose between cooling system and gauge with a T fitting for gauge and Schrader valve.. preferably with a rubber coating on them so no chance of damaging paint and such.. but for no more than it will get used what you have is fine.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> I agree with the 8psi. Think if I was building one it would have a piece of hose between cooling system and gauge with a T fitting for gauge and Schrader valve.. preferably with a rubber coating on them so no chance of damaging paint and such.. but for no more than it will get used what you have is fine.


I initially had both the gauge and the valve screwed into tubes with barb fittings at either end so I could screw them in just about anywhere and work with them from outside the case, but that was before I cut holes in the case for the top-facing ports on my top rad and the tubes became unnecessary and cumbersome. I found that it's hard to air up the schrader valve if the valve is not in secured in a fixed position. If the valve is flopping around on the end of a hose then holding the air chuck up tight to it to get it to seal and working the handle to add air into it while holding the valve from moving becomes a three hand job. Similarly, you need to have a good unobstructed view of the pressure gauge as you add air, so having it flopping around on a hose was less-than-ideal compared to having it in a fixed position where I could see it and it wasn't going to move on me.

I'm pretty sure that's why IT Diva built a whole contraption she can set on a table outside of her build that holds everything upright and in place, but as it turned out for me the dual fill-ports on top of my case turned out to be ideal for this purpose, and saved me from needing anything extra like that. If/ when I use it on another build that doesn't have as handy of ports like that then I have plenty of hose and fittings to make it work that way if I have to, although I'd probably only want to do that with the gauge. If possible I'd still want to be able to screw the valve right into an available port on something solid so I can add air to it easily.


----------



## doyll

Indeed.

When it's all said ad done a hand pump is probably the easiest way to pressurize the system.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Indeed.
> 
> When it's all said ad done a hand pump is probably the easiest way to pressurize the system.


Yeah, but with some hand pumps, just like with an air chuck on a compressor, you need to push with a decent amount of force against the valve for it to seal and add air, and you just pull it away quickly to get the valve to seal, so you'll want the valve screwed into something solid (like a rad) that's not going to move on you. This is the better type of air chuck for this purpose imho.

The hand/foot pumps that have a latching mechanism to seal the hose from the pump to a valve might seem at first to be a better idea, but I'm pretty confident saying they would be an even bigger headache as you lose all of the air pressure at ~8PSI in an instant, and those type pumps tend to let out quite a bit of air as you try to unseal it from the valve. I'm not sure you'd be able to get it to work at all unless you also add a shutoff valve so you can seal the air at the desired pressure before trying to detach the air chuck.

Come to think of it that's probably why both B Negative and IT Diva suggested having a shutoff valve. I didn't see the need for it since the schrader valve is a shutoff valve itself as long as you can detach the pump quickly enough from it.



In any case to leak-test a loop using air pressure you'll want to keep the air pressure on the loop for 12 or more hours at least to be able to make sure that the needle on the gauge doesn't move.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Really interesting the air pressure to test for leaks. thks for posting this. I was wondering also if could be use to help drain the system. My ongoing build within the Primo is being a pita to drain even with air intake at the xt45 480 at the top and a t-line with bistpower valve at the bottom... But I guess 10 psi would not be enough to force any water out of the system so back to planning and probably change the bottom radiator in front (is a XSPC with only 2 ports facing up). Will change for a Alphacool 60 280 mm so I can add another drain at the bottom....


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

That's an interesting idea. I'm not sure how much it would help or not though to keep trying to add just 5-8 PSI as the loop drains over just having fillports at the top open and a drain plug at the bottom. You might be able to pump it out easier with a foot/hand pump but you'd likely break a sweat doing it. It'd be a nice little workout I'm sure.

A better idea would be to buy an extra pump of some sort - the smallest / cheapest pond pump you can find would work - and hook it up to your drain line. As long as there's a top port open to let air in that should drain your loop in no time.

I have a pump like that I use in a rad flushing kit I put together that I don't think I would have even thought to use for draining until just now, but it seems it would also be ideal for that purpose.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> That's an interesting idea. I'm not sure how much it would help or not though to keep trying to add just 5-8 PSI as the loop drains over just having fillports at the top open and a drain plug at the bottom. You might be able to pump it out easier with a foot/hand pump but you'd likely break a sweat doing it. It'd be a nice little workout I'm sure.
> 
> A better idea would be to buy an extra pump of some sort - the smallest / cheapest pond pump you can find would work - and hook it up to your drain line. As long as there's a top port open to let air in that should drain your loop in no time.
> 
> I have a pump like that I use in a rad flushing kit I put together that I don't think I would have even thought to use for draining until just now, but it seems it would also be ideal for that purpose.


Ah better yet! Because I do use the same system to flush my parts (check the build log which is heavily outdated since the pc is down for now). Thks mate. +rep for the tip.

EDIT- Ah, one thing however. If the the pump (pond pump) have enough pressure would not the water also spill out from the top port open???


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Ah better yet! Because I do use the same system to flush my parts (check the build log which is heavily outdated since the pc is down for now). Thks mate. +rep for the tip.


Derp!

I don't know what I was thinking..









The pond pump doesn't have an 'in' line. Just an 'out'. It needs to sit submersed in the 'in' fluid source, so it's 'not' going to work for hooking up to a drain line. Sorry

I guess what you'd really need is an extra watercooling pump that has an inlet and outlet. I might pick up a used one from the marketplace or a cheap new one off ebay or maybe a DDC from BMaverick just for that purpose myself, plus it'll be good to have another extra around 'just in case' I need it.

EDIT:

A 'Drill Pump' could be made to work and be a cheap alternative as long as you already have a drill to operate it. You would need a couple barb adapters for it too though.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Liqu1dShadow*
> 
> So add it to the loop because if something does corrode which it will, it's "easy to clean"?
> 
> I'd rather not be cleaning anything and tearing down my loop, new coolant and leak checks,
> 
> His mobo will run hotter on water, mine ran at 18 on air and 29 on water (amb 15oC) as the water is warmer than the mobo parts would have got on air, but it looks nicer
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Reading about that std block and the problems it creates under water I would leave it on air till you have your EK's


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Maldark*
> 
> I'm sorry for bumping, but as I am going to assemble the rig tomorrow, I'd very much like your view on this^


No, it is scientifically impossible for any lesser metal to corrode a more noble metal. There has never been a documented issue with an Type 3 anodized aluminum water block....ever.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Those anodized aluminum fittings Danger Den used to sell - you can still find them for sale all over the place - would cause a corrosion explosion in no time. We (my brother and I) used them along with an ethylene glycol coolant and within 6-7 months time you couldn't take any of the fittings loose without destroying the threads on the fittings and whatever they were screwed into. We found corrosion from the fittings had been breaking away and clogging the fins in his CPU block and you could see tons of the stuff shining a light down into the rads that no amount of flushing ever got rid of. We filled-shaked-drained many many times and all it did was move the particles around in there. Hooked it up to the sink and after hours of wasting water through it the pieces coming out of it never stopped. The whole loop was a complete loss thanks to 6 or 8 of those anodized aluminum fittings. I think my brother was able to clean and re-use the pump was all.


I'd expect the same with the "faux anodizing process" used. Never had any but remember the discussions.... As I recall, they were not Type 3 anodized, nor were they salt spray tested per ASTM / ISO standards. I'm about 3 months away from a teardown .... wanna check blocks for any more paint flakes from fittings. Then we can compare notes between ya bro's build .

I have over 25 years experience with anodized aluminum in highly corrosive environments .... not distilled water w/ corrosion inhibitors, not engineered coolants...... talking school bus sized engine parts, wastewater treatment plants, shoreline facilities, etc with just one failure.....the instance would be akin to using a socket wrench to install the fitting into the black and cracking the block and deforming plate surrounding it.
Quote:


> There were MANY similar accounts posted all over boards like these about those fittings and other anodized aluminum parts - like manifolds - that many people were using at the time. There's good reason no one uses that stuff any more and why all the boards discussing ASUS' decision to go with an aluminum water channel on the MIVF were met with shock and disbelief.


The science is there and that's the way manufacturers are going .... Gigabyte is now doing the same on the Sniper........and MSI has one rumored. Odd tho that no one has concerns about brass and copper in the rads (See martins pics in his galvanic corrosion article).

I can't even remember a MIVF .... did it have an aluminum block and if it did, wouldn't a IV series be like 3 years old ?

I tried to contact Kier whose build is 10 months old and see if he's seen any signs of corrosion ... if he hasn't taken it down or disposed of already, that would be 50% longer than your brother usage.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sunciq*
> 
> Made an account to post a question.
> 
> Looking for a new case and the Phanteks Enthoo Primo got my eye. Before I buy the case I have a question for a current "Phanteks Enthoo Primo" owner with an Corsair Professional Series AX1200i PSU.
> 
> Does the AX1200i fit? It's a big PSU and I wonder if the FAN intake on the Phanteks Enthoo Primo is lined up correctly with the FAN on the AX1200i. Can somebody share his/her experience, perhaps with pictures?
> 
> Appreciate your support.


If ya haven't bought yet, I was looking at the 1200i but found the X-1250 from Seasonic more to my liking, and was pleasantly surprised that it was $100 cheaper at the time. Both are fine PSUs.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> That's good news, even though I'm not using the hub I have let alone looking for another any more I know others have been. I am interested in getting another of the SSD brackets though. Guess I'll have to hit up their chat or their forum to find out about that.


Well if they don't have em by March, ya wanna trade









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Really interesting the air pressure to test for leaks. thks for posting this. I was wondering also if could be use to help drain the system. My ongoing build within the Primo is being a pita to drain even with air intake at the xt45 480 at the top and a t-line with bistpower valve at the bottom... But I guess 10 psi would not be enough to force any water out of the system so back to planning and probably change the bottom radiator in front (is a XSPC with only 2 ports facing up). Will change for a Alphacool 60 280 mm so I can add another drain at the bottom....


I drained mine.... was kinda easy.... just opened up the two rad port extensions on top and connected a QD.... took maybe 20 secs to drain .....for the last 3-4 ounces, I did a "back tilt" to drain the top rad a forward tilt with a side tilt to drain the GPU blocks and bottom rad.

Id think a barb fitting a 12" tube and a deep breath wud clear it









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> EDIT:
> 
> A could be made to work and be a cheap alternative as long as you already have a drill to operate it.


Been there, done that so word of advice. I tested the drill pump before using it and found little mushy pieces of stuff floating in the discharge bucket ..... opened it up and found a marble sized wad of grease on the out port that the discharge had tunneled thru. So if ya reusing ya fluid, ya sure don't want lil globules of that grease floating around in there. I took it apart and wiped it down thoroughly .....

it's also good for back flushing ya blocks .... I connected a spare piece of flex tube and screwed a fitting into the out port on CPU and blew out 3 or 4 paint flakes that must have been scraped off fittings or rads during assembly - disassembly - reassembly.


----------



## jassilamba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> No, it is scientifically impossible for any lesser metal to corrode a more noble metal. There has never been a documented issue with an anodized aluminum water block....ever.


Agreed about anodized aluminum, as there is no evidence on that yet. But if anyone else wondering on this question, here is a good read - http://www.overclock.net/t/141512/mixing-aluminum-and-copper-in-a-waterloop

Also an FYI - Almost all AIO coolers have aluminum rads, and copper blocks.


----------



## Kimir

Hi owners, anyone here have an idea of when the white version will be available (in europe), my e-tailer have it in pre-order expected february 25th, this case really interest me for my next build.
All the rad space...


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jassilamba*
> 
> Agreed about anodized aluminum, as there is no evidence on that yet. But if anyone else wondering on this question, here is a good read - http://www.overclock.net/t/141512/mixing-aluminum-and-copper-in-a-waterloop
> 
> Also an FYI - Almost all AIO coolers have aluminum rads, and copper blocks.


Interesting read..... I took particular note of the guy with the Anod. Alum. Res who took the system apart twice over 2 years and found everything as good as new....but another guy said black finish was wearing off.....wonder what that was and what he had didn't have in his coolant. I'm more concerned about the finish on the BP fittings, and AC rads, since I have already picked paint / coating flakes outta my CPU WB.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> Hi owners, anyone here have an idea of when the white version will be available (in europe), my e-tailer have it in pre-order expected february 25th, this case really interest me for my next build.
> All the rad space...


My intuition is telling me more like early to mid March. There are several case options about to be released including black with white interior, black with red interior and black with orange interior... Plus their new Enthoo Luxe and Enthoo Pro... and PWM controlled 3-pin fan hub, new 200mm and 120mm fans... all of which are keeping them very busy.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> JackNaylorPE
> 
> 
> *
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> N
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> o, it is scientifically impossible for any lesser metal to corrode a more noble metal. There has never been a documented issue with an Type 3 anodized aluminum water block....ever.
> I'd expect the same with the "faux anodizing process" used. Never had any but remember the discussions.... As I recall, they were not Type 3 anodized, nor were they salt spray tested per ASTM / ISO standards. I'm about 3 months away from a teardown .... wanna check blocks for any more paint flakes from fittings. Then we can compare notes between ya bro's build .
> 
> I have over 25 years experience with anodized aluminum in highly corrosive environments .... not distilled water w/ corrosion inhibitors, not engineered coolants...... talking school bus sized engine parts, wastewater treatment plants, shoreline facilities, etc with just one failure.....the instance would be akin to using a socket wrench to install the fitting into the black and cracking the block and deforming plate surrounding it.
> The science is there and that's the way manufacturers are going .... Gigabyte is now doing the same on the Sniper........and MSI has one rumored. Odd tho that no one has concerns about brass and copper in the rads (See martins pics in his galvanic corrosion article).
> 
> I can't even remember a MIVF .... did it have an aluminum block and if it did, wouldn't a IV series be like 3 years old ?
> 
> I tried to contact Kier whose build is 10 months old and see if he's seen any signs of corrosion ... if he hasn't taken it down or disposed of already, that would be 50% longer than your brother usage.
> If ya haven't bought yet, I was looking at the 1200i but found the X-1250 from Seasonic more to my liking, and was pleasantly surprised that it was $100 cheaper at the time. Both are fine PSUs.
> Well if they don't have em by March, ya wanna trade
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I drained mine.... was kinda easy.... just opened up the two rad port extensions on top and connected a QD.... took maybe 20 secs to drain .....for the last 3-4 ounces, I did a "back tilt" to drain the top rad a forward tilt with a side tilt to drain the GPU blocks and bottom rad.
> 
> Id think a barb fitting a 12" tube and a deep breath wud clear it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Been there, done that so word of advice. I tested the drill pump before using it and found little mushy pieces of stuff floating in the discharge bucket ..... opened it up and found a marble sized wad of grease on the out port that the discharge had tunneled thru. So if ya reusing ya fluid, ya sure don't want lil globules of that grease floating around in there. I took it apart and wiped it down thoroughly .....
> 
> it's also good for back flushing ya blocks .... I connected a spare piece of flex tube and screwed a fitting into the out port on CPU and blew out 3 or 4 paint flakes that must have been scraped off fittings or rads during assembly - disassembly - reassembly
> 
> 
> .



Thks mate. You did reply on the other thread (the general Water cooling thread) but I was away from the forum for several days and did n´t reply to you properly there. Now I understood what you meant about the drill pump. It is cheap and sounds like a viable solution both to drain the loop and to try to flush out that bugger 1 cm painting I never found in my system. During the past 3 days I was doing metal work on the case (specially on the reservoir plate to fit 2 VGAs in it) and painting back in black. Will be assembling again soon.


----------



## Kimir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> My intuition is telling me more like early to mid March. There are several case options about to be released including black with white interior, black with red interior and black with orange interior... Plus their new Enthoo Luxe and Enthoo Pro... and PWM controlled 3-pin fan hub, new 200mm and 120mm fans... all of which are keeping them very busy.


Okey, thanks for the heads- up. I'm not in any hurry but it's good to know.


----------



## bond32

Man, I really want a flow indicator. Thinking of putting it on the reservoir bracket, one with an LED like the Primochill ones. Thoughts? The Bitspower looks ok, but really wanted one with an LED of sorts. Koolance is the ideal one, but I don't have the money.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Hi Folks

have this laying around:

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/17829/fan-1170/Prolimatech_Ultra_Sleek_Vortex_140mm_x_15mm_Slim_Profile_PWM_Fan_-_120mm_Mounting_Pattern.html?tl=c365s1862b165&id=NkVU2uH8&mv_pc=844

and was thinking about putting to good use on the back of the case blowing in the back of the cpu+vrm on my RIVE MB. Any suggestions of how to mount it there? Was planning on using those akust supports :

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/16145/slf-11/Akust_Adjustable_Magnetic_Fan_Bridge_Mounting_Kit_BK00-0107-AKS.html?tl=g47c121s262&id=NkVU2uH8&mv_pc=1303

but the small L leg is too large to fit on the back of the case...


----------



## jassilamba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> Man, I really want a flow indicator. Thinking of putting it on the reservoir bracket, one with an LED like the Primochill ones. Thoughts? The Bitspower looks ok, but really wanted one with an LED of sorts. Koolance is the ideal one, but I don't have the money.


Save up in that case, go for something that you really want, compared to get something for temp use, and then ending up throwing it away.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> Man, I really want a flow indicator. Thinking of putting it on the reservoir bracket, one with an LED like the Primochill ones. Thoughts? The Bitspower looks ok, but really wanted one with an LED of sorts. Koolance is the ideal one, but I don't have the money.


Funny you should mention it. Not exactly what you're talking about I don't suppose, but my Koolance flow meter and adapter just arrived today...



I didn't get one with a visual flow indicator or led because it will be hooked up out of view, but really wanted the Koolance one with the adapter so I could get accurate (or somewhere close to it) LPH/GPH readings on my Lamptron CW611.

Now I'm impatiently waiting for my XSPC RIVBE block set to arrive tomorrow, even though I'll be working 13+ hr days through Sunday so won't really have much if any time to start finishing this thing up until early next week sometime.


----------



## kalyan

Hi guys,

Anyone here have experience with the clickly things breaking?
The front filter part won't close. The 2 clicktly things might be broken.
Is there any way of getting new ones? or is there a way to fix them? (they seem to be using springs)


----------



## Gantrithor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> The pond pump doesn't have an 'in' line. Just an 'out'. It needs to sit submersed in the 'in' fluid source, so it's 'not' going to work for hooking up to a drain line


Actually, some aquarium/pond pumps can be used externally and have inlets. Some can only be used submerged. Others can be used as both and have the ability to swap some kind of pipe or hose fitting for an intake strainer.


----------



## Roxycon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kalyan*
> 
> Hi guys,
> 
> Anyone here have experience with the clickly things breaking?
> The front filter part won't close. The 2 clicktly things might be broken.
> Is there any way of getting new ones? or is there a way to fix them? (they seem to be using springs)


One of mine in the front is broken too, this was discussed with jack, unicron and me a coupple of pages back, to fix this youll have to shoot phanteks an email and theyll send you some spare parts







and to prevent future breaks, be sure to take off the front filter before you take of the fornt cover since these breaks quite easily









They should include some clamps in the accessory box though, as i with many others, i think, expect things to not break when its all new, especially those kind of parts


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kalyan*
> 
> Hi guys,
> 
> Anyone here have experience with the clickly things breaking?
> The front filter part won't close. The 2 clicktly things might be broken.
> Is there any way of getting new ones? or is there a way to fix them? (they seem to be using springs)


Oh yeah, I had both mine break and so have others here too. In my case I'm pretty sure I broke mine by removing the front of the case without removing the air filter panel from it first. Seems those clicky-things can't handle the abrupt popping loose of the front panel and they get stripped out when the front filter panel pops straight out without pushing it in first.

I had to contact Phanteks support and get them to send me two new push-click connectors. They are easy to replace. In the meantime I managed to use a small piece of 3M double-sided tape (tape of the gods) to hold that panel in place until the replacements arrived.

I really wish Phanteks would sell them separately - or I knew where to get them elsewhere - as I no longer have any faith that I'm not going to have more of those things fail on me again in the future. I'd like to stockpile at least 6 of them.

*EDIT*
I think I may have found them, but I'm not sure which ones ...

http://www.homeclick.com/products/sugatsune-cabinet-latches.aspx?n=109+9273893+20001098

There's a few there that look like it, apparently different sized, but doesn't appear to be enough specs info to be able to tell. Anyone able to spot which might be the correct one?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gantrithor*
> 
> Actually, some aquarium/pond pumps can be used externally and have inlets. Some can only be used submerged. Others can be used as both and have the ability to swap some kind of pipe or hose fitting for an intake strainer.


Good point.

I gave a cursory look around amazon and ebay and didn't see any really inexpensive pumps like that though, at least not less than a ~$35 DDC from BMaverick or $10-20 for a drill pump w/ barbs. If you know of any really cheap external pumps like that please do share.









I did run into one of these. Might something like this work? ...

http://www.harborfreight.com/multi-use-transfer-pump-66418.html


----------



## Roxycon

Could check for any markings if you still got the broken latches, i too would rather like to stock up then contacting support from phanteks


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *kalyan*
> 
> Hi guys,
> 
> Anyone here have experience with the clickly things breaking?
> The front filter part won't close. The 2 clicktly things might be broken.
> Is there any way of getting new ones? or is there a way to fix them? (they seem to be using springs)
> 
> 
> 
> Oh yeah, I had both mine break and so have others here too. In my case I'm pretty sure I broke mine by removing the front of the case without removing the air filter panel from it first. Seems those clicky-things can't handle the abrupt popping loose of the front panel and they get stripped out when the front filter panel pops straight out without pushing it in first.
Click to expand...

The biggest challenge is resisting the urge to pull the filter panel off instead of pushing hard enough for it to click loose and fall open. The pressure required to get them to release is too much... so peeps pull as hard as they pushed and "snap" latch breaks.


----------



## gordonfo

let me join in the club ^^ hope my build can inspire some people too


----------



## doyll

gordonfo,
That is one beautiful build!










The lighting is very nice. Looks like you notched out a bit at the bottom of side panel for lights to show thru?

Really like it!

Raising case will help airflow to the bottom. Stock bottom only has vent area about the same as a single 120mm fan.







Several of us are using castor bases both for ease of movement and increased airflow. Where are you located?


----------



## gordonfo

Hi Doyll, thanks for the compliment , I live in singapore, I plan to put my casing on top of my table one day, so maybe no roller stand off for me haha


----------



## Galatian

Hey guys,

long time lurker, first time poster here. I just received my Enthoo Primo today. I'm blown away. It's huge








I'm planning on building a custom waterloop inside it to cool my i5-3570K and EVGA GTX670 FTW Signature 2. Right now I plan on the following: Aquacomputer Eheim 1046 on the Pump Bracket --> CPU --> GPU --> 4*120mm Monsta Radiator in the bottom --> 2* 5 1/2" Bayreservoir --> Pump. Is anyone having a similar built. I'm not sure about clearance issues with the Bayres.
Thank for your input!


----------



## simsim44

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Oh yeah, I had both mine break and so have others here too. In my case I'm pretty sure I broke mine by removing the front of the case without removing the air filter panel from it first. Seems those clicky-things can't handle the abrupt popping loose of the front panel and they get stripped out when the front filter panel pops straight out without pushing it in first.
> 
> *EDIT*
> I think I may have found them, but I'm not sure which ones ...
> 
> http://www.homeclick.com/products/sugatsune-cabinet-latches.aspx?n=109+9273893+20001098
> 
> There's a few there that look like it, apparently different sized, but doesn't appear to be enough specs info to be able to tell. Anyone able to spot which might be the correct one?
> Good point.


I went to the link and ask what the dimensions were, I will post the response if I get one. Mine are not currently broke, but I'm sure it won't be long.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *simsim44*
> 
> I went to the link and ask what the dimensions were, I will post the response if I get one. Mine are not currently broke, but I'm sure it won't be long.


When you find out what they are and that they work let me know and I'll add it to our FAQ. Might even start an Enthoo Primo Wiki.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> The biggest challenge is resisting the urge to pull the filter panel off instead of pushing hard enough for it to click loose and fall open. The pressure required to get them to release is too much... so peeps pull as hard as they pushed and "snap" latch breaks.


I guess that might also be a cause, though I never tried to just pull on it nor had any problems push-clicking it. Seems to require the same amount of force as the top does to me, and haven't had any trouble with it either. What did strip mine out was removing the entire front of the case without removing the filter panel from it first. As soon as the front pops loose the filter panel went flying, and then wouldn't push-click to go back in. You can tell if your push-click things are stripped if you push them all the way in with a little screwdriver or the like and they won't stay in by themselves. If they are like that then it's time to get them replaced.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roxycon*
> 
> Could check for any markings if you still got the broken latches, i too would rather like to stock up then contacting support from phanteks


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *simsim44*
> 
> I went to the link and ask what the dimensions were, I will post the response if I get one. Mine are not currently broke, but I'm sure it won't be long.


Good idea on your part. Please do let us know.

By the way, I think these are them here. The dimensions seem to agree ...

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2x-touch-top-release-bin-lid-catch-latch-push-compatible-wit-Brabantia-Argos-30L-/301063689245?pt=UK_Home_Garden_Bathroom_Wastebaskets_Bins_PP&hash=item4618cb541d

Looks like they only ship to the UK though.









EDIT:
I'm pretty sure this is them also, and this seller does ship worldwide ...

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Replacement-touch-push-top-catch-clip-lock-latch-bin-lid-strike-pin-FREEPOST-/191014717621?pt=UK_Home_Garden_Bathroom_Wastebaskets_Bins_PP&var=490234635596&hash=item2c795d48b5#shpCntId

Doesn't look like it costs all that much. I'm going to buy the 5 pk from this seller just to see.


----------



## doyll

Seems rather expensive too. Although I could buy and post them to wherever need. Just cover the costs.









Edit:
Is this the one? Do measurements match?


American suppliers
http://sugatsune.com/Cabinet_Furniture_Hardware_Dealers/


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Seems rather expensive too. Although I could buy and post them to wherever need. Just cover the costs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Edit:
> Is this the one? Do measurements match?
> 
> 
> American suppliers
> http://sugatsune.com/Cabinet_Furniture_Hardware_Dealers/


Yeah, the measurements seem to match.

I went ahead and bought a 5 pack of the ones I posted a link to above from the UK ebay seller. With the Euro GBP to USD conversion and shipping it came to just over $12. I do hope they are a perfect match. One way or another I'm going to find out.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gordonfo*
> 
> Hi Doyll, thanks for the compliment , I live in singapore, I plan to put my casing on top of my table one day, so maybe no roller stand off for me haha


One member here raised his by gluing 2 dominoes together and onto each of the case feet.







The rubber feet on bottom are in a slightly recessed areas. Some 30mm blocks the same size as rubber pads, pull off the rubber feet, glue in blocks and put rubber feed on blocks.


----------



## simsim44

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Seems rather expensive too. Although I could buy and post them to wherever need. Just cover the costs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Edit:
> Is this the one? Do measurements match?
> 
> 
> American suppliers
> http://sugatsune.com/Cabinet_Furniture_Hardware_Dealers/


this does appear to be the right one, 11mm for the top flange and 8mm wide X 7mm thick, 15mm is the depth of the body. I took one out to get a pic and measure, but the pix didn't come out to well.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> I went ahead and bought a 5 pack of the ones I posted a link to above from the UK ebay seller. With the Euro GBP to USD conversion and shipping it came to just over $12. I do hope they are a perfect match. One way or another I'm going to find out.


Not too bad. . If I ordered 5 and than posted on to USA it would be close to $10.00 for up to 20 grams of weight.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Not too bad. . If I ordered 5 and than posted on to use it would be close to $10.00 for up to 20 grams of weight.


Yeah shipping didn't seem too bad. Shipping from that seller is free to the UK, and £2.50 for Royal Mail Airmail to the US, so £4.75 for the 5-pack plus £2.50 shipping came to £7.25, which paypal converted at a current rate of $1 = £0.586755 so total came to $12.36 on my end.

If they work out to be the same as the ones in the Phanteks case, and it seems like they will, then it'll be a good investment I think. I plan to have this case for quite a while, and I really don't want to have to wait/rely on Phanteks customer support again if / when another one or more of the latches fails on me. I've been a little uneasy every time I go to push-click to release a filter on the top or the front wondering if it's going to click back into place afterward or not, and it's not a good feeling especially as I know I'll want to blow out the filters on a regular basis, and I'll want to drain / refill my loop pretty regularly also since I'm just running distilled + Nuke PHN, and to do that I'll be needing to remove the front, then the top of the case to get to my fill ports. If these work it'll be a small price to pay imho for the peace of mind knowing if / when I do wear out one of the latches that I already have a backup.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *simsim44*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Edit:
> Is this the one? Do measurements match?
> 
> 
> American suppliers
> http://sugatsune.com/Cabinet_Furniture_Hardware_Dealers/
> 
> 
> 
> this does appear to be the right one, 11mm for the top flange and 8mm wide X 7mm thick, 15mm is the depth of the body. I took one out to get a pic and measure, but the pix didn't come out to well.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
Click to expand...

Good.

Now, who on here has experience with WikipediA.org and could create a Phanteks Enthoo Primo article for us? I can add / edit, but have never created an articke.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Yeah shipping didn't seem too bad. Shipping from that seller is free to the UK, and £2.50 for Royal Mail Airmail to the US, so £4.75 for the 5-pack plus £2.50 shipping came to £7.25, which paypal converted at a current rate of $1 = £0.586755 so total came to $12.36 on my end.
> 
> If they work out to be the same as the ones in the Phanteks case, and it seems like they will, then it'll be a good investment I think. I plan to have this case for quite a while, and I really don't want to have to wait/rely on Phanteks customer support again if / when another one or more of the latches fails on me. I've been a little uneasy every time I go to push-click to release a filter on the top or the front wondering if it's going to click back into place afterward or not, and it's not a good feeling especially as I know I'll want to blow out the filters on a regular basis, and I'll want to drain / refill my loop pretty regularly also since I'm just running distilled + Nuke PHN, and to do that I'll be needing to remove the front, then the top of the case to get to my fill ports. If these work it'll be a small price to pay imho for the peace of mind knowing if / when I do wear out one of the latches that I already have a backup.


This is one of those deals where once we have backup we will never need them.. and if we do need it, it will be so far in the future we won't be able to find them.


----------



## simsim44

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> This is one of those deals where once we have backup we will never need them.. and if we do need it, it will be so far in the future we won't be able to find them.


LOL .... How true


----------



## simsim44

ordered 2 packs of 4, from the homeclickie place


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *simsim44*
> 
> ordered 2 packs of 4, from the homeclickie place


May I inquire how much that cost?

Edit: Or would that upset Unicr0nhunter?


----------



## simsim44

Yes you may...

Product Qty Unit Price Total

Sugatsune: Non-Magnetic Mini Touch Latch (Body) - Set of 4 - PR-4PK
2 $5.44 $10.88

Merchandise $10.88
Tax $1.39
Shipping $8.95
Total $21.22

Grand Total $21.22

the down side they will not ship until 2/6/14, I have no idea what that's all about.


----------



## owcraftsman

UPDATE

Added some stuff to my build to sweeten the pot a bit. Sleeved PWR cables and a bit more red lighting via red led fans. I realized after I made the order Gelid doesn't make a 8 pin pcie cable so I had to go with the Bitfenix. I figured I'd find the Gelid elsewhere but I was wrong. Weird they don't make one.

1x Bitfenix Alchemy Multisleeve 8-Pin PCI-E Extension Cable - 45cm - Red (BFA-MSC-8PEG45RK-RP)
3x UV Red SATA 3.0 18" Cable w/ Latch - Straight to Straight (SCIII-18-R)
1 x Yate Loon 140x140x25mm Clear High Speed Fan with Quad Red LED D14SH-124R (D14SH-124R)
1 x Yate Loon CLEAR 120mm High Speed Silent Case Fan with Red LED - D12SH-124R - Sleeved (D12SH-124R)
1 x GELID Solutions 8 Pin (EPS) Cable with Red Sleeving (CA-8P-04)
1 x GELID Solutions 6 Pin (PCI-E) Cable with Red Sleeving (CA-6P-04)
1 x GELID Solutions 24 Pin (EPS) Cable with Red Sleeving (CA-24P-04)

Any who I think she looking a bit better and the flow from the Yate Loons is superior low noise too.


----------



## Gantrithor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> I gave a cursory look around amazon and ebay and didn't see any really inexpensive pumps like that though, at least not less than a ~$35 DDC from BMaverick or $10-20 for a drill pump w/ barbs. If you know of any really cheap external pumps like that please do share.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I did run into one of these. Might something like this work? ...
> 
> http://www.harborfreight.com/multi-use-transfer-pump-66418.html


I think that HF pump might actually work better than a centrifugal pump since it can actually create suction. In a closed loop, the pump can push water around but once open to the atmosphere, it may be no better than a siphon which you could create with a length of tubing filled with fluid.

A pump would have to be primed and all significant amounts of air removed in the tubing running to the pump's intake. At that point, water would probably just siphon out passively.


----------



## kalyan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> I guess that might also be a cause, though I never tried to just pull on it nor had any problems push-clicking it. Seems to require the same amount of force as the top does to me, and haven't had any trouble with it either. What did strip mine out was removing the entire front of the case without removing the filter panel from it first. As soon as the front pops loose the filter panel went flying, and then wouldn't push-click to go back in. You can tell if your push-click things are stripped if you push them all the way in with a little screwdriver or the like and they won't stay in by themselves. If they are like that then it's time to get them replaced.


Yup, I tried this out and it's definitely broken. Thanks for all your help guys.
I've contacted phanteks to get some replacement clickly things. Didn't realize this was a common issue.
You guys are the best


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gantrithor*
> 
> I think that HF pump might actually work better than a centrifugal pump since it can actually create suction. In a closed loop, the pump can push water around but once open to the atmosphere, it may be no better than a siphon which you could create with a length of tubing filled with fluid.
> 
> A pump would have to be primed and all significant amounts of air removed in the tubing running to the pump's intake. At that point, water would probably just siphon out passively.


FWIW, the drill pumps that were mentioned before don't need to be primed. They are made to be self-priming and can pull water to the pump through many many feet of hose as long as you have a high-speed drill. Don't think they work to great with a cordless drill though. In any case, the use we were discussing using a pump for was to help a drain from a system flow faster, so it's not like there wouldn't already be a flow to the pump if it needed priming, so really most any type of pump could be used as long as it has an inlet and an outlet that can be connected to hose. Gabrielzm had just mentioned that even with a fill port opened up to allow air in and a drain port on the the bottom opened up, the flow was very slow.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *simsim44*
> 
> ordered 2 packs of 4, from the homeclickie place


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> May I inquire how much that cost?
> 
> Edit: Or would that upset Unicr0nhunter?


I almost went that route, but they have different sets that look identical, but aren't, and don't give any size specs to be able to tell which might work with the Phanteks case. The PR-4PK is $5.44 for a set of 4 latches only and the only spec is it has a "Holding Force(kg): 1.2 (2.6 lbs)", then there's the ESN-195-BLK which looks identical but is $3.32 for a single latch + catch and the only spec is that it has a "Retaining Force (kg): 3.5 (7.7 lbs)". If I had to guess the 4pk is most likely the right item, but in either case they wanted $8.95 for shipping so it came out to be more than the ebay ones from the UK even with international shipping and at least the ebay ones gave size specs that reasonably assured me that they are the right ones to match what's in the Phanteks case


----------



## simsim44

this is for the 7.7 kg retainer

http://www.sugatsune.com/products/ProductDetails.cfm?CATID=3&SUBCATID=3&PRODUCTID=ESN-195-3


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *simsim44*
> 
> this is for the 7.7 kg retainer
> 
> http://www.sugatsune.com/products/ProductDetails.cfm?CATID=3&SUBCATID=3&PRODUCTID=ESN-195-3


Ok that's definitely bigger than what's in the Enthoo Primo.


----------



## doyll

Thanks for the info Simsim


----------



## simsim44

I have spent the last 45min, or so looking for the specs or the ones I ordered I thought I had seen them on the site but I have been unable to relocate it , so I will post pix and specs when the order arrives in I think two or three weeks, which is not my favorite part.

I found it

http://www.sugatsune.com/products/ProductDetails.cfm?CATID=3&SUBCATID=3&PRODUCTID=PR%2D4PK


----------



## simsim44

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Thanks for the info Simsim


your the one that found the info, originally posted.
I am just openly sharing what I am doing, my input is sometimes limited, but I am always will to share.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Good news and bad news for me.

Good news:

a) The original painting scrap that was in the system and I never found even flushing and back flushing parts individually finally came out. It was indeed a half turn of black painting that came off from one of the 1/4 ports.

b) finish the build yesterday (two PWM d5 pumps) and the flow can go as high as 1.8 gpm and water temp delta is less than 5 degrees C from ambient room temps no matter if the system is at idle or with prime95 going on. In fact temps are so great that I am very happy. highest core on the 4960k running at 4.4 ghz and taking around 1.38 v vcore never break above 51 C. Water temps flutuates around 29 and 31 C (idle x load) while ambient is around 26 C

Bad news:

Both pumps are decoupled using rubber and absolutely silent. However, after organizing the cables on the back (PSU is very close to the second pump spot (the default location on the Primo using the mounting plataform) a heavy noise appear which I think the only explanation is the cables touching the pump on the back of the case which cause the vibration to propagate to the case. If i reduce rpm of both pumps to 30% (which gives me 0.3 GPM of flow) the system is absolutely silent (fans at 40% ~720 RPM GT AP15 ).

Oh well.... Thinking the only way to solve this will be to reallocate the pump, perhaps at the floor between the 2x 240 rads in the front of the system and leave that space to the cables. Of course all the tubes and flow will have to be re-done and re-worked....

Any suggestions?

Cheers


----------



## doyll

If all was good before organizing cables I would try reorganizing/positioning the cables again..


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> If all was good before organizing cables I would try reorganizing/positioning the cables again..


Yep mate...That is what I am going to try tonight but I am not holding my breath on it since there is not space enough left to re-organize the cables But I will try before trying anything more radical...thks for the input.


----------



## doyll

Maybe post up some pics and somebody may have a suggestion of how to move cables to get rid of the vibration.


----------



## grifftech

Guys really dumb question









I am starting my build, got all the main stuff installed and tested, CPU, GPU etc now I am going to work on the water setup. I am trying to figure out how do I mount a 360 rad in the bottom with push/pull fans,

What I am wondering is the logistics of mounting the push fans to the case and then to the radiator??







Do we have access from the bottom where I can easily run a 35mm screw through the case bottom and into the fan and then rad?

Sorry for dumb question, but I haven't had a chance to look yet and am at work









Thanks,
Chris


----------



## bond32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *grifftech*
> 
> Guys really dumb question
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I am starting my build, got all the main stuff installed and tested, CPU, GPU etc now I am going to work on the water setup. I am trying to figure out how do I mount a 360 rad in the bottom with push/pull fans,
> 
> What I am wondering is the logistics of mounting the push fans to the case and then to the radiator??
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Do we have access from the bottom where I can easily run a 35mm screw through the case bottom and into the fan and then rad?
> 
> Sorry for dumb question, but I haven't had a chance to look yet and am at work
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> Chris


Yep, not 100% easy but it's possible. Myself I have a 480 in push pull in the bottom. You remove the fan bracket as well as the drive cage bracket mounted in the bottom. In my case, I put the entire case on the side, held the fans in place while I screwed the included screws in the box through the bottom set of fans to the radiator. Got the bottom 4, set the case upright, then did the top 4. If you need pics I can take some for ya


----------



## grifftech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> Yep, not 100% easy but it's possible. Myself I have a 480 in push pull in the bottom. You remove the fan bracket as well as the drive cage bracket mounted in the bottom. In my case, I put the entire case on the side, held the fans in place while I screwed the included screws in the box through the bottom set of fans to the radiator. Got the bottom 4, set the case upright, then did the top 4. If you need pics I can take some for ya


Awesome thanks, pics would be cool. I liek to see other Enthoo rigs anyways


----------



## simsim44

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *grifftech*
> 
> Guys really dumb question
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I am starting my build, got all the main stuff installed and tested, CPU, GPU etc now I am going to work on the water setup. I am trying to figure out how do I mount a 360 rad in the bottom with push/pull fans,
> 
> What I am wondering is the logistics of mounting the push fans to the case and then to the radiator??
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Do we have access from the bottom where I can easily run a 35mm screw through the case bottom and into the fan and then rad?
> 
> Sorry for dumb question, but I haven't had a chance to look yet and am at work
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> Chris


what rad you using ?


----------



## bond32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *grifftech*
> 
> Awesome thanks, pics would be cool. I liek to see other Enthoo rigs anyways


Posted in the wrong thread lol.

Here's a few pictures:


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!











One issue I did run into, the second fan from the front, the fan hub was actually touching the metal floor of the case after it was all mounted. The fan was unable to spin freely, so I had to bend the case out slightly. Wasn't a big deal


----------



## doyll

Looks good bond32!


----------



## bond32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Looks good bond32!


Thanks, but those were actually older photos I took. I have since changed a few things in my build, going for a minimal tubing look. Took those mainly because often the bottom of this case is discussed in this thread.


----------



## grifftech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *simsim44*
> 
> what rad you using ?


UT60


----------



## grifftech

Well I am working on mounting it now







The screws that came with the UT60 are a bit problematic. The heads on the M5 30mm screws are smaller than the mounting holes in the bottom plate of the Enthoo, but nothing some small washers can't fix









I ended up pretty much tearing the case down to get easier access to the bottom, this will be a much longer build than I anticipated, but I think that is the case most of the time I presume.


----------



## grifftech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> Posted in the wrong thread lol.
> 
> Here's a few pictures:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One issue I did run into, the second fan from the front, the fan hub was actually touching the metal floor of the case after it was all mounted. The fan was unable to spin freely, so I had to bend the case out slightly. Wasn't a big deal


Are you pulling air from inside the case and then venting out the bottom through your rad?


----------



## bond32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *grifftech*
> 
> Are you pulling air from inside the case and then venting out the bottom through your rad?


No. All fans in my case are intake except the back 140mm


----------



## grifftech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> No. All fans in my case are intake except the back 140mm


Yeah I just had the direction of flow backwards, and guess what, I have to reinstall my bottom rad! LOL


----------



## bond32

Ha, well at least now you're familiar with it and you know what all is involved. For the top, I have a phoyba g-changer 420 which is a 60mm thick rad... To get it in the case I had to almost disassemble the entire thing.


----------



## grifftech

Now I need to figure out how to cover up the ugly sticker and exposed fan wires on the fans on top of the rad.


----------



## owcraftsman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *grifftech*
> 
> Well I am working on mounting it now
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The screws that came with the UT60 are a bit problematic. The heads on the M5 30mm screws are smaller than the mounting holes in the bottom plate of the Enthoo, but nothing some small washers can't fix
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I ended up pretty much tearing the case down to get easier access to the bottom, this will be a much longer build than I anticipated, but I think that is the case most of the time I presume.


The problem with adding washers is you then have problem closing the filters as they get in the way.

If you are using the hex heads get some slotted screws which a have a little larger head.

Even at that if I were to pull up hard on the rad it would pop loose.

I think being snug and gravity is good enough though.

I had trouble with the 35 mm screws being to long so I ordered some 30 screws.

That worked until I set the case upright and had the same second fan mentioned aboved rubbing against the case

So I ordered a 360 anti vibration gasket to go between case and fans and went back to 35 mm screws.

I'd say bond32 air flow is push into the case from the bottom based on the orientation of his fans


----------



## simsim44

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *grifftech*
> 
> Now I need to figure out how to cover up the ugly sticker and exposed fan wires on the fans on top of the rad.


Let me know how that works out, I just put 2 in the bottom of my case and thought the same thing.......and 2 seconds later I said yea right. not worth the trouble. Mine are the lighted version Corsair AF-140's. After I put the side cover back on you can't see it anyway.


----------



## Essenbe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> Posted in the wrong thread lol.
> 
> Here's a few pictures:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One issue I did run into, the second fan from the front, the fan hub was actually touching the metal floor of the case after it was all mounted. The fan was unable to spin freely, *so I had to bend the case out slightly. Wasn't a big deal*


Would you mind explaining how you did that and what piece you are calling the 'fan hub'? I'm having the same issue and had to stop the fan. After building the whole rig, I would rather not take everything out and start again. Are you talking about the metal grate on the bottom of the case?


----------



## Liqu1dShadow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Essenbe*
> 
> [/B]
> 
> Would you mind explaining how you did that and what piece you are calling the 'fan hub'? I'm having the same issue and had to stop the fan. After building the whole rig, I would rather not take everything out and start again. Are you talking about the metal grate on the bottom of the case?


The fan hub is the round bit of the fan that the blades are attached to


----------



## Essenbe

OK, thanks. I thought you were talking about the case. Thanks.


----------



## bond32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Essenbe*
> 
> [/B]
> 
> Would you mind explaining how you did that and what piece you are calling the 'fan hub'? I'm having the same issue and had to stop the fan. After building the whole rig, I would rather not take everything out and start again. Are you talking about the metal grate on the bottom of the case?


Yes, the metal grate, I just used pliers to bend it out until it wasn't touching the fan.


----------



## chrisnyc75

Hey guys -- fyi, I finally got my build log completed and uploaded over on the ROG forum. I may duplicate it on the OCN watercooling forum if I have time, but for now click below to check out the full details.









http://rog.asus.com/forum/showthread.php?40029-Project-YOLO-2K13-%28first-time-watercooling-buildlog


----------



## Essenbe

Very nice, Chrisnyc75. Very well done, indeed. Congratulations.


----------



## doyll

chrisnyc75,
Very nice job.








Definitely getting more beautiful builds all the time.


----------



## Liqu1dShadow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chrisnyc75*
> 
> Hey guys -- fyi, I finally got my build log completed and uploaded over on the ROG forum. I may duplicate it on the OCN watercooling forum if I have time, but for now click below to check out the full details.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://rog.asus.com/forum/showthread.php?40029-Project-YOLO-2K13-%28first-time-watercooling-buildlog


Does it take the air 20 minutes to pass through that radiator!!!!


----------



## chrisnyc75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Liqu1dShadow*
> 
> Does it take the air 20 minutes to pass through that radiator!!!!


lol yeah, the 80mm Monsta is pretty thick. IMO, that's the Enthoo's biggest advantage, though -- you can mout a Monsta rad internally without having to displace or mod any parts or hardware.


----------



## Liqu1dShadow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chrisnyc75*
> 
> lol yeah, the 80mm Monsta is pretty thick. IMO, that's the Enthoo's biggest advantage, though -- you can mout a Monsta rad internally without having to displace or mod any parts or hardware.


I went with 60mm RX240 on the bottom and the Blac Ice 480 on top
http://www.overclock.net/t/1453740/build-log-red-dwarf-ii-enthoo-primo-photo-heavy/60


----------



## Kimir

Nice looking rig there, may I ask why eloop on the bottom and corsair on the top?


----------



## Hereisphilly

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chrisnyc75*
> 
> Hey guys -- fyi, I finally got my build log completed and uploaded over on the ROG forum. I may duplicate it on the OCN watercooling forum if I have time, but for now click below to check out the full details.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://rog.asus.com/forum/showthread.php?40029-Project-YOLO-2K13-%28first-time-watercooling-buildlog


Very nice rig! Liking the combination red tubing and red coolant for the clear res! Props to you man
What temps are you getting?


----------



## chrisnyc75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hereisphilly*
> 
> Very nice rig! Liking the combination red tubing and red coolant for the clear res! Props to you man
> What temps are you getting?


Thanks







The red dye actually didn't work out very well, it completely dissipated after about 2 weeks. Since then, I've drained and flushed the system, but still no sign of the dye, so it's either gunking up some crevice deep in my loop, or it adhered to the tubing walls and never came out. It wasn't actually very much dye, maybe 10 drops of dark red + 1 drop dark blue. Currently, I'm runnning pure distilled water + PT Nuke. I find that the red led tube in the reservoir makes the dye unnecessary, anyway.

My 4930k idles around 27c, with all fans around 600rpm. Honestly, I could probably turn the fans off much of the time and it would perform just as well from natural radiation.

At max Prime95 or IBT load, it maxes out around 60c @4.6ghz or 70c @4.7ghz. Doesn't make much difference what speed I run the fans when I'm benching, 1200rpm cools just as well as 2400rpm. I need to play around with my pump speed and see if slowing it down to level 2 might actually bring temps down a bit, just haven't gotten around to it.

In gaming, my cpu hovers around 40c give-or-take, and my gpu's never top 40c.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> Nice looking rig there, may I ask why eloop on the bottom and corsair on the top?


Cost savings. lol Those e-loops are freakin expensive, so I went with the cheaper Corsairs in the top where they're not visible. I like the way the UV lighting sets off the white blades on the e-loops on the bottom.


----------



## Hereisphilly

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chrisnyc75*
> 
> Thanks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The red dye actually didn't work out very well, it completely dissipated after about 2 weeks. Since then, I've drained and flushed the system, but still no sign of the dye, so it's either gunking up some crevice deep in my loop, or it adhered to the tubing walls and never came out. It wasn't actually very much dye, maybe 10 drops of dark red + 1 drop dark blue. Currently, I'm runnning pure distilled water + PT Nuke. I find that the red led tube in the reservoir makes the dye unnecessary, anyway.
> 
> My 4930k idles around 27c, with all fans around 600rpm. Honestly, I could probably turn the fans off much of the time and it would perform just as well from natural radiation.
> 
> At max Prime95 or IBT load, it maxes out around 60c @4.6ghz or 70c @4.7ghz. Doesn't make much difference what speed I run the fans when I'm benching, 1200rpm cools just as well as 2400rpm. I need to play around with my pump speed and see if slowing it down to level 2 might actually bring temps down a bit, just haven't gotten around to it.
> 
> In gaming, my cpu hovers around 40c give-or-take, and my gpu's never top 40c.


Ah i completely didn't see the difference between the two pics, yeah you're right the red led looks great in distilled water. Im running DW too, cant be bothered with the hassle of dyes, so i went with coloured tubing aswel

Nice to see someone is getting similar temps with the same graphics cards as me (i've got twin 680s, but we all know they're the same as 770s), and that my alphacool blocks are doing okay


----------



## chrisnyc75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hereisphilly*
> 
> Ah i completely didn't see the difference between the two pics, yeah you're right the red led looks great in distilled water. Im running DW too, cant be bothered with the hassle of dyes, so i went with coloured tubing aswel
> 
> Nice to see someone is getting similar temps with the same graphics cards as me (i've got twin 680s, but we all know they're the same as 770s), and that my alphacool blocks are doing okay


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> Nice looking rig there, may I ask why eloop on the bottom and corsair on the top?


Yeah, I actually had a Black Ict GTX that I picked up used for a great price in advance of my build, but I ended up scrapping it in favor of Alphacools on top and bottom. I was just seduced by the streamlined design and multiple ports on the Alphas.

When I upgrade again, probably next year, I think I'm gonna switch to rigid acrylic tubing, and run it with Mayhems pastel dark red or Aurora 2 if it's available by then. Distilled definitely gives the best performance, but to be honest my cooling is kinda overkill for my needs, so I may actually go a little more aesthetic next time. But for now, I do like the clean look of clear distilled with the red & uv highlight lighting.


----------



## Liqu1dShadow

This is the idle of my GPU's


----------



## simsim44

Nice looking rig.


----------



## Hereisphilly

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Liqu1dShadow*
> 
> This is the idle of my GPU's


Jeeeeeeesus, 12 degrees? Thats amazing, mine only idle at 29 and rise to just under 40 on full load


----------



## bond32

Had an idea, but it would involve bending a part of the included radiator bracket... I'm referring to the bracket that comes included at the bottom of the case. If you bent the tab down or broke it here:



one could still put a 360 or 480 in push pull but this would give the fans more room to pull in air. What do you guys think? This is assuming the spacing on that bracket will work as work.

Edit: NVM, I see now with that bracket it offsets the 120mm enough where it won't clear the brace.


----------



## Liqu1dShadow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hereisphilly*
> 
> Jeeeeeeesus, 12 degrees? Thats amazing, mine only idle at 29 and rise to just under 40 on full load


12oC and 33oC under 100% and that's with the fans at 450rpm (silent)


----------



## bond32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Liqu1dShadow*
> 
> 12oC and 33oC under 100% and that's with the fans at 450rpm (silent)


Wish I still had my RX rad, your build makes me miss mine lol. Sold it to a member on these boards...

If I ever make changes to my cooling, suppose I will add an EX140 to the rear, maybe an RX or EX240 to the side bracket, and maybe even another 120/140 on the front...

Anyone considered that? With a large radiator in the bottom in push pull, still seems I have room for possibly a single 120/140 in the front.

OHHH!!!! Look at this! New version of the RX radiator?!
http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/xsrxqu12rane.html

Edit again: Looks like it's really just a thick version of the EX radiator with slightly more FPI. Seems to use the split fin design.


----------



## chrisnyc75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Liqu1dShadow*
> 
> 12oC and 33oC under 100% and that's with the fans at 450rpm (silent)


Where do you live, the South Pole? lol My problem is I'm not a cold weather person, so I tend to keep it around 70F in my room, so to get my temps any lower I'd have to look into phase change or a chiller, which is a step further than I find necessary right now. Of course that's what I used to say about watercooling before I got the itch.









Maybe the next time there's a big advance in tech I'll go that route - phase change would have been amazing back when I picked up a first gen i7 920 Nehalem - I coulda blown away the benchmark charts before the rest of the world caught on. hehe Everybody and their grandma has a 6-core i7 now, no sense going to extremes until there's something new to play with and showcase.


----------



## Liqu1dShadow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chrisnyc75*
> 
> Where do you live, the South Pole? lol My problem is I'm not a cold weather person, so I tend to keep it around 70F in my room, so to get my temps any lower I'd have to look into phase change or a chiller, which is a step further than I find necessary right now. Of course that's what I used to say about watercooling before I got the itch.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Maybe the next time there's a big advance in tech I'll go that route - phase change would have been amazing back when I picked up a first gen i7 920 Nehalem - I coulda blown away the benchmark charts before the rest of the world caught on. hehe Everybody and their grandma has a 6-core i7 now, no sense going to extremes until there's something new to play with and showcase.


I live in England







its always cold, room is about 10oC but I like it cold haha


----------



## marc0053

Has anyone went from a cm storm trooper to the enthoo primo? How was your experience? Anything much better? I do like the cable management option but trying to justify the upgrade.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *marc0053*
> 
> Has anyone went from a cm storm trooper to the enthoo primo? How was your experience? Anything much better? I do like the cable management option but trying to justify the upgrade.


I haven't but Enthoo Primo is definitely better in my opinion.









Another option is the Enthoo Luxe which will be released in March.
Enthoo Luxe has a MSRP of $189.99. It has many of same features as Enthoo Primo but is smaller.
Enthoo Luxe = 235x560x550mm (WxHxD)
Enthoo Primo = 250x650x600mm
Storm Trooper = 250x605.6x578.5mm


----------



## Bitemarks and bloodstains

Thread cleaned.

Please report any ToS violation and move on, do not reply as it simply take the thread off course and creates more posts for the mod team to deal with.


----------



## owcraftsman

@chrisync75 I like your build and enjoyed reading your build log thanks for sharing. I have lot of the UV lights like you used hanging around from previous builds and like how you used them. Think I might play around and see if I like. Love what you did with the SLI bridge too. Lots of nice work.

@ club members

It's nice to see the positive responses too.

Seems to be a tough crowd to cozy up to here I've posted several pics of my own build and not one comment.

I suppose it must suck and everyone is just playing nice.

I've tried to be helpful but must have done something wrong.

I was going to join the club but not sure I want to now.

Maybe I'm just to old for this crowd.

Bottom line I appreciate all the contributions here and all the help it has been to me.


----------



## doyll

Sorry owcraftsman,
I've seen your post and pics. Very nice looking build. I especially like the use of small window to displace component stickers.


----------



## xlim3y

So I know this will be seen as blasphemous by the water cooling crowd, but I have 2 NZXT Kraken g10 brackets coming this week. I also ordered a primo to replace my Thor v2. My plan is to have my h100i at the top of the case, probably in the middle 2 fan mounts, and then my h90s at the back of the case. The top 140mm mount on the rear of the case seems like the h90 will fit no problem, but does anyone know if I can do another in the bottom 140mm rear mounting point?


----------



## bond32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xlim3y*
> 
> So I know this will be seen as blasphemous by the water cooling crowd, but I have 2 NZXT Kraken g10 brackets coming this week. I also ordered a primo to replace my Thor v2. My plan is to have my h100i at the top of the case, probably in the middle 2 fan mounts, and then my h90s at the back of the case. The top 140mm mount on the rear of the case seems like the h90 will fit no problem, but does anyone know if I can do another in the bottom 140mm rear mounting point?


No I don't see it as blasphemous at all. However the Primo is total overkill if you're using closed loop coolers in my opinion lol. You have literally tons of options where you would want to mount them. You could mount 2xh100i's in the top, or 1xh110 + 1xh90; same for the bottom, h90 or h80 on both the back and/or the bottom back piece. Heck for the GPU, you could even mount one on the side of the drive cages.


----------



## simsim44

I don't believe the cooler lines are long enough for some of those setups. I was considering the same, all closed loops, I have opted for the custom setup, it will just take longer until I get all the parts.


----------



## bond32

Anyone have any idea what would happen if the pwm fan hub was plugged into a voltage header?


----------



## simsim44

I would guess, guess mind you, that it would decrease fan speeds with less voltage settings, as it appears to start at 12 volts, if you lessen the input voltage I would assume it would lower the fan speeds.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Can someone point me to the correct led strip to change it blue for red. I will be buying from frozencpu since I am in Brazil and not many option with reaonable shipping prices. I would aprreciate the help since don't want to order the wrong part and end up waiting a month for it.


----------



## grifftech

This is very early stage of my build, I am just roughing things in and trying to figure out plumbing. Not sure about the 90 degree rotaries on the Photon. I have a very minor amount of kink in the tubing between the VRM and CPU block. I am trying to think of a different routing scheme that doesn't require such a tight bend.


----------



## Roxycon

Linus tech tips vid





Edit: i got goosebumps @12,30


----------



## Biafra1987

Hi! Small update on my EP build. If you are interested- XSPC photon 270 fits right in













I am working on a custom badge designed by my friend to add to this. Preview:


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## Kimir

Nice looking rig there Biafra.


----------



## bond32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roxycon*
> 
> Linus tech tips vid
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Edit: i got goosebumps @12,30


Pretty poor review in my opinion. Likely because Phanteks doesn't do any sponsoring for them... He said the included fans are "not the greatest in the world" and "cheap". It's been shown in the air cooling section these phanteks fans are some of the best 140mm fans you can buy. He also makes no mention of putting the fans in the very top for push pull, makes no mention of using a 420mm rad up top, or how thick the radiators can be. He also said if you decide to use a 480mm rad in the bottom that you can't use the drive cages but you can use one drive cage fine.

Only reason I say this is I feel Linus would mention things like this if it was a Corsair case or Noctua fans.


----------



## Biafra1987

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> He said the included fans are "not the greatest in the world" and "cheap".


I also strongly disagree with these statements. I kept the Phanteks fans together with my BQ Silent wings 2 (top radiator is in P/P) and e-loops because they don't stand out from this crowd. I am running the fans @800RPM but you can easily run them @1200RPM and they make almost no sound. I have some experience with various fans and at these speeds Corsair fans are easily audible (both AF and SP). This is easily the level of solid noctua fans without the obvious colour drawbacks...

@Kimir

Thanks! I can see I'm not the only Koolance fan out there


----------



## bond32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Biafra1987*
> 
> I also strongly disagree with these statements. I kept the Phanteks fans together with my BQ Silent wings 2 (top radiator is in P/P) and e-loops because they don't stand out from this crowd. I am running the fans @800RPM but you can easily run them @1200RPM and they make almost no sound. I have some experience with various fans and at these speeds Corsair fans are easily audible (both AF and SP). This is easily the level of solid noctua fans without the obvious colour drawbacks...
> 
> @Kimir
> 
> Thanks! I can see I'm not the only Koolance fan out there


Point being, you really couldn't ask for better 140mm fans to be included. And they include 5. So you get 5 of arguably the best 140mm radiator fans available.

Normally I always watch Linus' stuff, he has some good videos. But this one was pretty poor. Doesn't even scratch the surface of the Primo. Had I had no idea about the Primo before I watched it, chances are I would have brushed the case to the side after watching this video and kept looking.


----------



## simsim44

I agree, I think the review was skewed by his personal beliefs. Disrespect to the maker, for not taking the time to know what the future cases names were.


----------



## Biafra1987

I also watch a lot of Linus videos (his guide was what pushed me towards watercooling in the first place) but here he is simply wrong. There is no other case on the market with included fans of such quality. Corsairs are rather poor, fractal fans can get some bearing noise at low RPM, SS fans have to be controlled manually as they can be noisy (despite great performance) and CM fans are just bad. Do you know anything that comes close to these?


----------



## bond32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Biafra1987*
> 
> I also watch a lot of Linus videos (his guide was what pushed me towards watercooling in the first place) but here he is simply wrong. There is no other case on the market with included fans of such quality. Corsairs are rather poor, fractal fans can get some bearing noise at low RPM, SS fans have to be controlled manually as they can be noisy (despite great performance) and CM fans are just bad. Do you know anything that comes close to these?


Sounds about right. Linus has always been partial to Noctua and Corsair. I'm not complaining, I understand funding has to come from somewhere. I'm just saying, he goes into much greater detail for corsair cases and fans.


----------



## doyll

LinusTechTips definitely blew their review.







Some seriously uninformed statements and negative comments about things no other reviewer had any issues with... while missing the only real problem of limited venting to bottom of case.








And even that hasn't created any real problems with 480 radiators.









@ Gabrielzm
Jesse on TheModZoo did a tutorial on changing the LEDs. There a a couple of links to what will work. Sorry, but that's all I know.
http://themodzoo.com/forum/index.php?/topic/883-enthoo-primo-front-led-color-change/

@ grifftech
Looking good!

@ Roxycon
Kudos' Mate! But it was more like 12:40.









@Biafra 1987
Very nice! Especially the badge


----------



## grifftech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> @ grifftech
> Looking good!


Thank you sir!


----------



## xlim3y

Does anyone have a good explanation of the way the fan hub works? So I am a little unique in that I am going to use 3 aio coolers in this case. 2 Corsair h90s on my video cards and a h100i on my cpu. Now the h100i fans are controlled and powered by the pump and software. In my current case, a Thor v2, I just had the h90s fans and case fans on the cases fan controller. Given that I need separate control for the Gpu fans, is there any way to incorporate the included pwm hub or do I need to get a separate fan controller to handle the gpus and maybe let the hub do just my case fans?


----------



## doyll

Are the H90 fans 3-pin voltage control or 4-pin PWM? If they are PWM it's pretty easy to use the PWM fan header on GPU PCB.. assuming it's a normal 4-pin GPU header. Can use one on each GPU or just one for both GPUs.
Gelid PWM Adaptor Cable for VGAGelid have a mini 4-pin GPU to normal 4-pin PWM adapter

ModDIY have e a Mini 4-Pin GPU (Female) to Mini 4-Pin GPU (Male) / 4-Pin Fan (Male) Cable Splitter if you need to power a GPU fan for GPU PCB and H90
http://www.moddiy.com/products/Mini-4%252dPin-GPU-%28Female%29-to-Mini-4%252dPin-GPU-%28Male%29-%7B47%7D-4%252dPin-Fan-%28Male%29-Cable-Splitter.html

I would use Gelid PWM 1-4 Splitter to power and control H90 fans. Advantage is using PSU or power instead of GPU fan header.
http://www.gelidsolutions.com/products/index.php?lid=2&cid=11&id=63

It's also explained in my first sig link; "controling PWM case fans."

If you are in UK I have a mate who custom makes these.. and PWM to analog adapters for 3-pin fans. Has been selling them for about a year and a half now with no complaints.


----------



## xlim3y

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Are the H90 fans 3-pin voltage control or 4-pin PWM? If they are PWM it's pretty easy to use the PWM fan header on GPU PCB.. assuming it's a normal 4-pin GPU header. Can use one on each GPU or just one for both GPUs.
> Gelid PWM Adaptor Cable for VGAGelid have a mini 4-pin GPU to normal 4-pin PWM adapter
> 
> ModDIY have e a Mini 4-Pin GPU (Female) to Mini 4-Pin GPU (Male) / 4-Pin Fan (Male) Cable Splitter if you need to power a GPU fan for GPU PCB and H90
> http://www.moddiy.com/products/Mini-4%252dPin-GPU-%28Female%29-to-Mini-4%252dPin-GPU-%28Male%29-%7B47%7D-4%252dPin-Fan-%28Male%29-Cable-Splitter.html
> 
> I would use Gelid PWM 1-4 Splitter to power and control H90 fans. Advantage is using PSU or power instead of GPU fan header.
> http://www.gelidsolutions.com/products/index.php?lid=2&cid=11&id=63
> 
> It's also explained in my first sig link; "controling PWM case fans."
> 
> If you are in UK I have a mate who custom makes these.. and PWM to analog adapters for 3-pin fans. Has been selling them for about a year and a half now with no complaints.


The fans that came with the H90's are PWM. I am currently using AF140 3pin fans on the h90's instead in push/pull as the noise they make is less irritating for me than the stock corsair fans were. Given that the primo comes with 5 SP fans, I thought I might swap on 2 of those to the push location on the h90's, and use the AF140's for pull, and then case air intake.

Are the Phanteks included fans PWM or 3pin? My cards are 780 Lightnings, I'm not sure if they have standard fan connectors as they have the 3 zone fan by default. IIRC, there were 3ish fan connections per card.

I'm not in the UK sadly (was born there, but live in the states now). I'll look into these options for controlling the fans. In the end I'm going to have 3 fans per card that need to be controlled. The Kraken g10 holds a 92mm fan for VRM cooling, so I'll have that, and then 2 rad fans on the h90 per card. The 92mm fan is 3pin from what I hear (brackets will be here this week) Would be nice to be able to crank up all 3 fans per card as a set

Anyway, thanks for the links, I'm going to look into those options now. What about my case fans? Is using the included hub the way to handle those?


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xlim3y*
> 
> The fans that came with the H90's are PWM. I am currently using AF140 3pin fans on the h90's instead in push/pull as the noise they make is less irritating for me than the stock corsair fans were. Given that the primo comes with 5 SP fans, I thought I might swap on 2 of those to the push location on the h90's, and use the AF140's for pull, and then case air intake.
> 
> Are the Phanteks included fans PWM or 3pin? My cards are 780 Lightnings, I'm not sure if they have standard fan connectors as they have the 3 zone fan by default. IIRC, there were 3ish fan connections per card.
> 
> I'm not in the UK sadly (was born there, but live in the states now). I'll look into these options for controlling the fans. In the end I'm going to have 3 fans per card that need to be controlled. The Kraken g10 holds a 92mm fan for VRM cooling, so I'll have that, and then 2 rad fans on the h90 per card. The 92mm fan is 3pin from what I hear (brackets will be here this week) Would be nice to be able to crank up all 3 fans per card as a set
> 
> Anyway, thanks for the links, I'm going to look into those options now. What about my case fans? Is using the included hub the way to handle those?


Phanteks included PH-F140SP are 3 pin. 3x plain fans and 2x with blue LED.

LOL I was born in USA and live in UK.







Once you figure out what the 780 Lightning fan headers and Kraken G10 it will probably fall into place. If you need any help let me know.


----------



## grifftech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Biafra1987*
> 
> Hi! Small update on my EP build. If you are interested- XSPC photon 270 fits right in
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I am working on a custom badge designed by my friend to add to this. Preview:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


What do you use to take your pictures? They look great!


----------



## Hereisphilly

Right, I've had chat with Doyll, and we think it would be a good idea to create a gallery/list of all us Enthoo Primo owners, as the number is growing, and it would be nice to have all our builds in one place.
I've created a google spreadsheet that can be accessed here that hopefully should meet our needs

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/ccc?key=0AkQu-gDSL98FdEQtNnVITTVSdmd6QTRFV0MtQkR1YkE&usp=sharing
which will go up on the OP for everyone to find.

If you want to post here or PM me the details to go in the spreadsheet, I'll maintain it and upload it. Google docs needs a hosted image URL for me to be able to insert it into a cell, so links only please.
I've also left columns for links to more pics/build log, and a spec rundown if you guys want to provide that too. If you cant be bothered, don't worry!
If anyone has anything else they want to see up there/another way of doing things, I'm open to suggestions!

Finally, we thought once your details have been added and you are part of the club, a sig would be great to add to your profile too

I was thinking this:

Code:



Code:


[center]:clock:[URL=http://www.overclock.net/t/1418637/phanteks-enthoo-primo-owners-club][B]Phanteks Enthoo Primo Owners Club[/B][/URL]:clock:[/center]


----------



## grifftech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hereisphilly*
> 
> Right, I've had chat with Doyll, and we think it would be a good idea to create a gallery/list of all us Enthoo Primo owners, as the number is growing, and it would be nice to have all our builds in one place.
> I've created a google spreadsheet that can be accessed here that hopefully should meet our needs
> 
> https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/ccc?key=0AkQu-gDSL98FdEQtNnVITTVSdmd6QTRFV0MtQkR1YkE&usp=sharing
> which will go up on the OP for everyone to find.
> 
> If you want to PM me the details to go in the spreadsheet, I'll maintain it and upload it. Google docs needs a hosted image URL for me to be able to insert it into a cell, so links only please.
> I've also left columns for links to more pics/build log, and a spec rundown if you guys want to provide that too. If you cant be bothered, don't worry!
> If anyone has anything else they want to see up there/another way of doing things, I'm open to suggestions!
> 
> Finally, we thought once your details have been added and you are part of the club, a sig would be great to add to your profile too
> 
> I was thinking this:
> 
> Code:
> 
> 
> 
> Code:
> 
> 
> [center]:clock:[URL=http://www.overclock.net/t/1418637/phanteks-enthoo-primo-owners-club][B]Phanteks Enthoo Primo Owners Club[/B][/URL]:clock:[/center]


Awesome job


----------



## Biafra1987

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *grifftech*
> 
> What do you use to take your pictures? They look great!


Thanks! To be honest I use an old compact/ultra-zoom camera. I don't want to link to the guides on other forums but the key is to use a stand of some kind- put your camera on a chair if you have nothing else. Your camera has to have a manual mode (most of them have it). You put the camera on something, focus (by pressing the button half-way) and you adjust the exposure (the mark that will appear has to be in the middle of a scale). It is best to use a self-timer so that you avoid the blur caused by pressing the button. Try it yourself and after few pics you will get the hang of it. My camera is a panasonic lumix DMC-FZ18 (about 7 years old)... I guess it's not worth more than 30 euro right now... The message is- you don't need much


----------



## grifftech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Biafra1987*
> 
> Thanks! To be honest I use an old compact/ultra-zoom camera. I don't want to link to the guides on other forums but the key is to use a stand of some kind- put your camera on a chair if you have nothing else. Your camera has to have a manual mode (most of them have it). You put the camera on something, focus (by pressing the button half-way) and you adjust the exposure (the mark that will appear has to be in the middle of a scale). It is best to use a self-timer so that you avoid the blur caused by pressing the button. Try it yourself and after few pics you will get the hang of it. My camera is a panasonic lumix DMC-FZ18 (about 7 years old)... I guess it's not worth more than 30 euro right now... The message is- you don't need much


K I have a DSLR and tripod I RARELY ever use and maybe it is time bust it out and take some pics.


----------



## Roxycon

linus gave the enthoo more time than most corsair and nzxt stuff, but i do think the time used was very unsystematic.. he's known for the fast videos though









ps: the review was old footage which got lost in rendering and now got up since they got requests after ces2014 for a review, so no wonder why he didnt know the next phanteks case names


----------



## Hereisphilly

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roxycon*
> 
> linus gave the enthoo more time than most corsair and nzxt stuff, but i do think the time used was very unsystematic.. he's known for the fast videos though
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ps: the review was old footage which got lost in rendering and now got up since they got requests after ces2014 for a review, so no wonder why he didnt know the next phanteks case names


Props for getting featured tho!
But yes, i do agree with you, the review was pretty poor


----------



## Kimir

Do any of you have a D5 pump by any chance?
I'm wondering how to setup an EK-D5 Vario X-RES 140 (incl. pump) in front of a 360 rad on the bottom.

(note: I don't have the case/res/pump but I'm thinking for my next build







)


----------



## Hereisphilly

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> Do any of you have a D5 pump by any chance?
> I'm wondering how to setup an EK-D5 Vario X-RES 140 (incl. pump) in front of a 360 rad on the bottom.
> 
> (note: I don't have the case/res/pump but I'm thinking for my next build
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )


I've got a D5 running right now, albeit on the pump bracket behind the mobo
Not the res variant tho, just a D5 with a non standard top

What do you want to know?


----------



## Roxycon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hereisphilly*
> 
> Props for getting featured tho!
> But yes, i do agree with you, the review was pretty poor


Thanks









Do anyone know if the fan blades on the fans that come with the case is detachable or if they got the c clip business?


----------



## Kimir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hereisphilly*
> 
> I've got a D5 running right now, albeit on the pump bracket behind the mobo
> Not the res variant tho, just a D5 with a non standard top
> 
> *What do you want to know?*


How it's fixed to the chassis, basically.
Pictures will do just fine.


----------



## Hereisphilly

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> How it's fixed to the chassis, basically.
> Pictures will do just fine.


Without taking my side doors off, the only pic i have is of the pump already on the bracket
http://s1002.photobucket.com/user/Hereisphilly/media/SDC11242.jpg.html

Basically, there are loads of holes in the pump bracket, for all sorts of pump mounts, so you just screw the pump into the bracket from the underside in the holes that fit best, and then the bracket screws to the base of the case via the use of two thumbscrews.


----------



## Kimir

Ok thanks, maybe I should just go with that with a res placed like yours.


----------



## Hereisphilly

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> Ok thanks, maybe I should just go with that with a res placed like yours.


If you aren't afraid to drill the backplane and mount a tube res there, then there is a really well placed grommet on the top of the PSU cover to allow the tubing to pass down and connect to the pump directly below.
I'm pretty sure there is a pump bracket fixing point in the front where the hard drive cages are, but i'm unsure if a 360 rad will cover the holes up or not


----------



## marc0053

Can someone confirm the clearance behind motherboard tray to side panel. Id like to know the clearance for cable management purposes.
Thanks


----------



## Essenbe

As close as I can come, 1 1/8", Which is plenty, IMO. I know it is more than the HAF X and the NZXT Switch 810.


----------



## EliteReplay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Biafra1987*
> 
> Hi! Small update on my EP build. If you are interested- XSPC photon 270 fits right in
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I am working on a custom badge designed by my friend to add to this. Preview:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


thats good looking


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *marc0053*
> 
> Can someone confirm the clearance behind motherboard tray to side panel. Id like to know the clearance for cable management purposes.
> Thanks


Its about 30 mm:

http://themodzoo.com/forum/index.php?/page/articles.html/_/reviews/cases/phanteks-enthoo-primo-full-tower-review-r67?pg=4


----------



## Jared485

So ive researched quite a bit and seems that every res ive seen someone try to mount inside of this cage doesn't line up with the res mount bracket designed in this thing... am i missing something or did they mess up on that part? Im going to be getting the bitfenix 150ml resivour and want to know if itll mount to that bracket as is??

Thanks!


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jared485*
> 
> So ive researched quite a bit and seems that every res ive seen someone try to mount inside of this cage doesn't line up with the res mount bracket designed in this thing... am i missing something or did they mess up on that part? Im going to be getting the bitfenix 150ml resivour and want to know if itll mount to that bracket as is??
> 
> Thanks!


When did Bitfenix come out with a res? I can't find a mention of it anywhere.

Different res have different mounting patterns, so there was no way to accommodate all. I mounted the XSPC in the rear without a problem, but front mounting on the bracket would have required drilling two holes. That will be the case with many reservoirs.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

I suspect Jared probably meant a Bitspower 150 reservoir.

I might be wrong, as I don't have one to put in there to be sure, but it looks like the holes on the Enthoo Primo's reservoir bracket and in the rear of the case were made with the Bitspower tank Z clamps in mind.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jared485*
> 
> So ive researched quite a bit and seems that every res ive seen someone try to mount inside of this cage doesn't line up with the res mount bracket designed in this thing... am i missing something or did they mess up on that part? Im going to be getting the bitfenix 150ml resivour and want to know if itll mount to that bracket as is??
> 
> Thanks!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> I suspect Jared probably meant a Bitspower 150 reservoir.
> 
> I might be wrong, as I don't have one to put in there to be sure, but it looks like the holes on the Enthoo Primo's reservoir bracket and in the rear of the case were made with the Bitspower tank Z clamps in mind.


Thanks![/quote]

Ek reservoirs work just fine too. The holes line up perfectly with pumps and reservoirs made by EK on the included bracket. As to Jared original question I think most reservoirs don't align perfectly with the bracket because of GPU limitations. You have 3 holes in the upper part and depending on you reservoir diameter you can adjust the alignment not with the bracket but to allow the VGA to be installed. BTW, with EK reservoir it does align perfectly with the bracket (centered dead on).


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> I agree with the 8psi. Think if I was building one it would have a piece of hose between cooling system and gauge with a T fitting for gauge and Schrader valve.. preferably with a rubber coating on them so no chance of damaging paint and such.. but for no more than it will get used what you have is fine.


I test industrial systems generally to 1.5 x max pump pressure. What that is will depend on ya pump. I have estimated that the 35x2 pump is doing about 2.25 gpm @ 100% PWM which puts it at 9.37 psi .... it tops out at 12.50 psi but unless ya have installed a valve in the loop, and accidentally leave it shut, you'll never see the 12.5.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *marc0053*
> 
> Can someone confirm the clearance behind motherboard tray to side panel. Id like to know the clearance for cable management purposes.
> Thanks


Ya can find that and many other dimensions in the ModZoo video on their site or at beginning of this thread..... al;so a drawing with dimensions and clearances in Post # 1000..... but to answer ya questions, slightly over an inch.....1" to the inside of the frame at edges 1-1/8" to panel wall

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jared485*
> 
> So ive researched quite a bit and seems that every res ive seen someone try to mount inside of this cage doesn't line up with the res mount bracket designed in this thing... am i missing something or did they mess up on that part? Im going to be getting the bitfenix 150ml resivour and want to know if itll mount to that bracket as is??
> 
> Thanks!


EK Res 3 - 250 fits golden.... didn't even need the EK nutz.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kalyan*
> 
> Hi guys,
> 
> Anyone here have experience with the clickly things breaking?
> The front filter part won't close. The 2 clicktly things might be broken.
> Is there any way of getting new ones? or is there a way to fix them? (they seem to be using springs)


Yes, been few reports contact Brian at Phanteks USA, he will send ya some. They are very hard to use still.... I have to take from panel off and squeeze from both sides.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chrisnyc75*
> 
> lol yeah, the 80mm Monsta is pretty thick. IMO, that's the Enthoo's biggest advantage, though -- you can mout a Monsta rad internally without having to displace or mod any parts or hardware.


I went with the UT60 so it wouldn't block the grommet thru to the PSU chamber ....and then as it turned out I didn't use it.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Liqu1dShadow*
> 
> 12oC and 33oC under 100% and that's with the fans at 450rpm (silent)


Damn, what happens when ya bring the puter indoors ?









Ambient must be 40-41 F!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> Anyone have any idea what would happen if the pwm fan hub was plugged into a voltage header?


Same thing..... I'm using a 4 pin CHA header for the Phanteks PCB with Asus FanXpert2 controlling the speeds.....works extremely well..... however one thing ya can't do is plug the 12V supply into the PCB as with the MoBo sending say 7 and the connector sending 12, ya gonna get 12v and run at full speed.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Can someone point me to the correct led strip to change it blue for red. I will be buying from frozencpu since I am in Brazil and not many option with reaonable shipping prices. I would aprreciate the help since don't want to order the wrong part and end up waiting a month for it.


Look at the FAQ over at the ModZoo site that is linked at the end of the review.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roxycon*
> 
> Linus tech tips vid
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Edit: i got goosebumps @12,30


"Normally useless reservoir bracket if you have gaming GFX cards" ? .... "water cooler's wet dream" ? If the cards are WC'd, generally not going to be a problem.

I was compelled to point out the Noctua / Phanteks comparison here









http://www.overclock.net/t/1418637/phanteks-enthoo-primo-owners-club/2680

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xlim3y*
> 
> Are the Phanteks included fans PWM or 3pin? My cards are 780 Lightnings, I'm not sure if they have standard fan connectors as they have the 3 zone fan by default. IIRC, there were 3ish fan connections per card.


3 pin..... the Phanteks PCB has a 4 pin input which will handle either a voltage or PWN signal, the connecting the 12V aux. power connector negates voltage control. You could use a separate PCB for each card or run both off a single....I wouldn't put more than 8 fans on any one header. tho....6 wud be better.


----------



## doyll

Maybe 13psi would be a better test pressure than.


----------



## OutlawII

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Maybe 13psi would be a better test pressure than.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OutlawII*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Maybe 13psi would be a better test pressure than.
Click to expand...

How about 14? Anyone?


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Maybe 13psi would be a better test pressure than.


I would say only necessary if using a 35x2 or two pumps in series.

The 35x tops out at about 6.5 psi .... so + 50% wud be 9.75 say ... certainly no need for more than 10 with a 35x

The Koolance D5 strong tops out at about 4.7 so 7 psi there.....whereas the non-strong (weak ?) gets to 5.66, so 8.5 is puuurfect there.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Might want to ask in the OCN watercooling thread about the max pressure for testing a loop. I know when it was discussed before no one suggested ever going over 10 PSI, and pretty sure some mentioned there that they have damaged rads &/or blown out o-rings on blocks at pressures not much above that.


----------



## Jared485

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> When did Bitfenix come out with a res? I can't find a mention of it anywhere.
> 
> Different res have different mounting patterns, so there was no way to accommodate all. I mounted the XSPC in the rear without a problem, but front mounting on the bracket would have required drilling two holes. That will be the case with many reservoirs.


Sorry I meant bitspower my bad. Bitspower 150 or 250ml


----------



## Gantrithor

What pump tops fit? I got an EK D5 X-Top CSQ and it doesn't line up with any of the holes on the pump bracket. I've wasted so much money and am no closer to finishing my build.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gantrithor*
> 
> What pump tops fit? I got an EK D5 X-Top CSQ and it doesn't line up with any of the holes on the pump bracket. I've wasted so much money and am no closer to finishing my build.


Not sure what are you doing mate... Is this top that you have?

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/16419/ex-pmp-198/EK_D5_X-Top_Acetal_Pump_Top_CSQ_-_Laing_D5_and_Swiftech_MCP-650655_EK-D5_X-TOP_CSQ_-_Acetal.html?id=QyE2JdbV&mv_pc=2447

If so it does fit and it does align nicely with the holes in the bracket. If you don't believe me see the pictures in my building log.

Are you talking about the pump support in the back of the case? If so is a simple matter of drilling two holes there. Look at my build log and you will see where I drill mine. Fits perfectly after that.

Hope it helps


----------



## Gantrithor

That's the top I have with two M4 threaded holes 35 mm apart for the base. I guess it's drilling time--something I had hoped to avoid with a case made for water cooling.


----------



## xlim3y

Just got my case, still building at the moment. Quick question on the led strip. There is a sata connection labeled 12v, then a molex labeled led strip, and a bunch of little 2 pins that I Can't remember the label on. To power the led strip do I just need the sata connected?


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gantrithor*
> 
> That's the top I have with two M4 threaded holes 35 mm apart for the base. I guess it's drilling time--something I had hoped to avoid with a case made for water cooling.


don't worry mate. That base with rubber on the back is like butter to drill. very easy.


----------



## borax

Hey guys proud to say that I have begun my build in the enthoo primo, everything is fitting together like a charm.. will be using primochill rigid acrylic tubing!


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xlim3y*
> 
> Just got my case, still building at the moment. Quick question on the led strip. There is a sata connection labeled 12v, then a molex labeled led strip, and a bunch of little 2 pins that I Can't remember the label on. To power the led strip do I just need the sata connected?


Page 11 in the manual should answer your questions.


----------



## Kimir

Has any of you used the EK CoolStream RAD-XTX 360 on the bottom?
Phanteks website says you can fit a 360 with 125mm width max, the EK one is supposed to be 130mm width.

As I am planning my new build with the Enthoo Primo, I was thinking to go with a EK CoolStream RAD-XTX 480 up top and EK CoolStream RAD-XTX 360 on the bottom. Might be a better idea to go with NexXxoS UT60 Full Cuivre 480 and NexXxoS Monsta 360 instead?
(480 would be push only and 360 would be push/pull, all that with eLoop B12-P on top, eLoop B12-PS on bottom)


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> Has any of you used the EK CoolStream RAD-XTX 360 on the bottom?
> *Phanteks website says you can fit a 360 with 125mm width max, the EK one is supposed to be 130mm width*.


Think you answered your own question.








The side panel can be removed and modified for wider coolers. Have see pics of bottom mounted Monsta 420 that way.


----------



## Kimir

Yeah I answered my own question, but you never know maybe someone tried it, I don't have the case yet since I'm waiting for the white version so I couldn't verify the space available.


----------



## simsim44

the bottom will not support a 130mm wide rad I tried an older rad I had It was 128 and it was too big by 2 or 3 mm, there will be some differences from case to case, small but still, I would not exceed 124mm, most of what I found available are 121, that would be the Magic number. 121mm.


----------



## Kimir

Ok thanks, I've seen this build with a monsta 360 rad (399x124x80mm), I might go with that then (and an UT60 up top).
Alphacool NexXxoS rad are the best perf/money ratio anyway so.


----------



## doyll

Even a 125mm radiator is a very tight fit.


----------



## Kimir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Even a 125mm radiator is a very tight fit.


----------



## doyll

Even a 125mm radiator is so tight some have had trouble getting them in
And both can scratch.


----------



## Roxycon

have someone fitted a rampage 4 black edition in the case? would like to see how it looks


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roxycon*
> 
> have someone fitted a rampage 4 black edition in the case? would like to see how it looks


Google "rampage 4 in enthoo primo"


----------



## Roxycon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Google "rampage 4 in enthoo primo"


At least you didnt use LMGTFY









looks like the chipset is grayish








looking to upgrade/sidegrade to a 2011 setup

the res bracket is still usable with an e-atx right?


----------



## doyll

R U a YUMPY ?









LMGTFY









http://hardforum.com/showthread.php?t=1799714

Edit:
Almost forgot U R YUMPY so go all the way to end of thread to see reservoir bracket installed.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roxycon*
> 
> have someone fitted a rampage 4 black edition in the case? would like to see how it looks


Here's my Enthoo Primo w/ a R4BE, but it's still very much a work in progress (don't mind all the fingerprints)



I had barbs and flexible tubing in just a CPU loop to the top rad & one of my cards still on air just to take it for a spin, but I'm still saving up for the memory. Wanting to put in a 64GB kit. Had to cannibalize a couple 4GB sticks from another build just to make sure everything works so far.

Now I'm just getting started to work on the acrylic tubing now that my R4BE blocks are finally here. ...



Now I got wait for work to let up so I can have time to pull everything back out and put these blocks on the board and get everything else going. Still got a LOT to do, but haven't had a day off in weeks now. At this rate I might have this thing up and running sometime May or June or ...


----------



## Roxycon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> R U a YUMPY ?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> LMGTFY
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://hardforum.com/showthread.php?t=1799714
> 
> Edit:
> Almost forgot U R YUMPY so go all the way to end of thread to see reservoir bracket installed.


Ah, he got it installed, have to get my backup system for sale then maybe









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Here's my Enthoo Primo w/ a R4BE, but it's still very much a work in progress.
> 
> 
> 
> I had barbs and flexible tubing in just a CPU loop to the top rad & one of my cards still on air just to take it for a spin, but I'm still saving up for the memory. Wanting to put in a 64GB kit. Had to cannibalize a couple 4GB sticks from another build just to make sure everything works so far.
> 
> Now I'm just getting started to work on the acrylic tubing now that my R4BE blocks are finally here ...


Looks nice







how high is the northbridge?

And do you think the lga 2011 is worth it over the 1155, assuming i can sell off my backup parts at the price of motherboard cpu and ram?


----------



## Kimir

Ah great, thanks Unicr0nhunter for your pic, that's a monsta on the bottom right?








My build will look like about the same I guess, except I'll get the R4E instead of the BE, can't find it anywhere and it's 100€ more, huh!


----------



## Gunilla95

My building is going well too, im leak testing now

.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roxycon*
> 
> Ah, he got it installed, have to get my backup system for sale then maybe
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Looks nice
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> how high is the northbridge?
> 
> And do you think the lga 2011 is worth it over the 1155, assuming i can sell off my backup parts at the price of motherboard cpu and ram?


Well, there's not a 'northbridge' on the board. If you mean the red 'Republic of Gamers' block it just houses LEDs so it can light up for show. AFAIK there's nothing else under it. I'll be too glad to get rid of it. It's 23mm tall btw. The chipset heatsink is 15mm. The VRM/Mosfet heatsink is 32mm, and the I/O cover/heatsink is 40mm.

As far as if it's worth it to you, I dunno. I haven't had my board powered up but for about 30 minutes so far, and it's my first 2011 socket, so I'm probably not the best one to ask such things.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> Ah great, thanks Unicr0nhunter for your pic, that's a monsta on the bottom right?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My build will look like about the same I guess, except I'll get the R4E instead of the BE, can't find it anywhere and it's 100€ more, huh!


Yeah it's a 360 monsta in the bottom and a 480 XT45 up top, both push-pull, and that's a Photon 270 D5 pump combo that just barely squeezes in between them.


----------



## Roxycon

The leds are possible to turn off i guess?

Meant the top heatsink.. have to be able to route two hoses up and back its possible with my sabertooth so i would assume it can be done on the rampage


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roxycon*
> 
> The leds are possible to turn off i guess?
> 
> Meant the top heatsink.. have to be able to route two hoses up and back its possible with my sabertooth so i would assume it can be done on the rampage


There looks to be a plug just to the right of the ROG block that I suspect will disable the LEDs, and I think there might be a way to turn it on/off in the BIOS also. Doesn't really matter to me though. It's going bye bye to make room for my R4BE waterblocks.

The top heatsink is for the VRMs/Mosfets. It's 32mm tall and sits ~15mm from the top of the board. The 4 & 8 pin CPU plugs are right above it, among other things.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roxycon*
> 
> At least you didnt use LMGTFY
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> looks like the chipset is grayish
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> looking to upgrade/sidegrade to a 2011 setup
> 
> the res bracket is still usable with an e-atx right?


Is not actually a e-atx despite what Asus says. It is a little more wide but the screws are in the normal position for a atx. RiVE en RIve-BE have the same dimensions. You can check how it looks in my build log too but fits perfectly. With the normal bracket however and a reservoir there it gets very hard to insert the sata cables (if you forgot to insert before mounting everything like I did







)

Hah, nice Unicr0nhunter, you manage to fit the photon there. I almost got the Aqualis but decided against because with two long vga cards there I measure around 80 mm clearance for the reservoir in the bracket and thought that was not going to work....


----------



## Kimir

Nice build you've got there Gabrielzm, I see you have 2x D5, with a 4930k and 2x 780Ti KingPin and a 480 UT60 and 360 monsta I'm planning, a single D5 will not be enough? (I've always had problem choosing pump lol)


----------



## Roxycon

Cpu power delivery will make it a little tougher on the x79 worse case scenario would be taking off one set of fans


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> Nice build you've got there Gabrielzm, I see you have 2x D5, with a 4930k and 2x 780Ti KingPin and a 480 UT60 and 360 monsta I'm planning, a single D5 will not be enough? (I've always had problem choosing pump lol)


I actually measure flow in my loop. One D5 would give me around 1 GPM (0,9-1,1) which is plenty. With two I got 1.7 GPM. I went dual for several reasons: redundancy, easy bleeding and especially to run the two pumps quieter that a single. So my loop runs now at 1 GPM but both pumps are sitting comfortably at around 45% of the PWM curve.

I need to update the log. I change both pumps to the drive bay using a dual top which have consequences to reservoir position... Still a work in progress. I will change soon the xspc 280 mm rad with a UT 60 280 mm at the bottom to make a nice drain. On top I will change the 480 mm xt45 with a 420 mm xt45 to make a easy fill port and have more room on the front of the bays to place the pump, fan controller and a 120 mm or 140 mm fan to help the air flow in front. Finally to finish it I will change the tubes for clear and use a red pastel mayhem. But it is now functional and I am back to work and gaming on it with an almost silent system. Quite pleased with the case and its potential. Thks Kimir for commenting on. BTW pay attention to a UT60 on top since the clearance to motherboard cpu power might or not be a problem. Check out jesse review of the Phanteks Entho Primo in the mod zoo he measure that clearance.


----------



## Kimir

Thanks for the input. Well I plan to go on push only on top (with eloop that goes to 2200) and with the RIVE VRM block from EK as well. So it should be ok.
The thing I really don't know what to take is res/pump, either a combo or something like you. I'm used to have no space to work with as you can see with my actual rig (small fractal R4 with the RIVE ahah).
I still have time to decide anyway, the white case isn't available yet and there is other stuff my retailer doesn't have in stock. I'll take my time to get it good at once, not like my actual rig that goes from air, to H100 then custom loop.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Might want to ask in the OCN watercooling thread about the max pressure for testing a loop. I know when it was discussed before no one suggested ever going over 10 PSI, and pretty sure some mentioned there that they have damaged rads &/or blown out o-rings on blocks at pressures not much above that.


I thot I saw it posted that the rads were tested to 1.5 bar which is just under 22 psi..... however Phobya states in their product literature for their pressure relief valve that "Also the parts installed in a system are usually pressure-tested up to at least 2 bar." which wud be up close to 30 psi

10 psi amounts to about 1.21 pounds of force on a 10/12 tube "dead end".

The things is .... if it is going to fail, when do you want it to happen ? .... while your sitting there testing or when you stepped out to grab a bite. You don't want to test at pressures less than you will actually see. I agree that 8 psi is just fine for a D5 or 35x .....

At 100% PWM on a 35x2, martin shows a best to worse case range of pressures from 7.4 psi (low restriction loop) to 11.6 psi (high restriction loop). If ya in the middle of that range, you're about 9.5 psi. So if using the 35x2, or something equivalent, I think 8 is too low..... I'm guessing I'm in the 9.0 range ... so 13.5 wud meet the 1.5x criteria and exceeds the max pressure of the pump even at shutoff. But again, no need for this with a single D5 or DDC.


----------



## djtbster

thought i join the fun


----------



## hhlragnarok

Can u show some close up photos of the motherboard clearance with the top radiator fans and the bottom radiator with the panels conceals the HDD cages?

what is the maximum height of the motherboard/RAM when using 140mm fans push+pull with 60 radiator?

Thanks~~~


----------



## Essenbe

Very nice job, djbster. Well done. That looks very nice.


----------



## djtbster

ill try to get some pics waiting to get my dslr back, when i do i can take some snaps for you, the bottom rad has 0 i mean zero clearance with the inner side panel where the badge is, used some cooking oil and patience to squeeze it in lol,


----------



## hhlragnarok

lol that is cute...expecting your photos~~~


----------



## ADragg

Can anyone maybe speculate why the LED's I'm trying to wire up aren't working off the LED plugs (those mini auxiliary plugs for LEDs)? I bought some of those same mini connectors and tried to solder up some normal 5050 white LEDs, but they aren't working.

The plugs are definitely powered okay. I made sure the plugs I was trying it on were working by plugging the LED fans into them. They power the blue fan LED's fine. I also know the LED's work because they worked when receiving power from a 12v wall adapter (the LED's came pre-wired with a wall adapter style barrel jack and all I did was just cut the jack off and hooked the mini plugs that go in the Enthoo to the already soldered on wire). If I cut the plug back off and re-soldered the barrel jack back on, I'm sure the LED's would still work just fine from the wall adapter. The only thing I can think of is that the case power doesn't provide enough current or something like that, even though it's 12v power and 12v LED's. Maybe someone can confirm something like this, and if anyone has any recommendations for LED strips that I can solder up that DO run okay off the special LED wiring in the case, please let me know.


----------



## Static-LNX

Is there any problems using a swiftech h220 with this case? I'm looking for a case for my little teenager brother and I've already got an AIO cooler for him


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ADragg*
> 
> Can anyone maybe speculate why the LED's I'm trying to wire up aren't working off the LED plugs (those mini auxiliary plugs for LEDs)? I bought some of those same mini connectors and tried to solder up some normal 5050 white LEDs, but they aren't working.
> 
> The plugs are definitely powered okay. I made sure the plugs I was trying it on were working by plugging the LED fans into them. They power the blue fan LED's fine. I also know the LED's work because they worked when receiving power from a 12v wall adapter (the LED's came pre-wired with a wall adapter style barrel jack and all I did was just cut the jack off and hooked the mini plugs that go in the Enthoo to the already soldered on wire). If I cut the plug back off and re-soldered the barrel jack back on, I'm sure the LED's would still work just fine from the wall adapter. The only thing I can think of is that the case power doesn't provide enough current or something like that, even though it's 12v power and 12v LED's. Maybe someone can confirm something like this, and if anyone has any recommendations for LED strips that I can solder up that DO run okay off the special LED wiring in the case, please let me know.


LEDs worked on their supplied PSU
Cut/install mini-plug, and they don't work on EP aux LED plug
_Ass_ume LEDs will work if original connector is put back on.








Never make _ass_umptions like that.








My guess is that the +12v wire & neg wire are soldered on mini connector in the wrong order. Try switching them.


----------



## COMBO2

Hey guys, re did my loop today with the tips 47 Knucklehead gave me on the loop order. I can safely say that my rig looks, by god, SO MUCH BETTER! + no leaks and everything was perfect, absolutely love this case and have been adoring it for the last 2 months I've had it. Here are some pics.


----------



## simsim44

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *djtbster*
> 
> thought i join the fun


Sweet !Nice rig, true LED's are polarity sensitive.

I just switch over to my secondary rig, Hells fear, and shut down Hells Gate, I got some stuff from Frozencpu today. I ordered a XSpc EX360 I got a AX240, so I called and got things straightened out. I was digging the Photon D5 pump a little more than the bay res, so I told them I will keep it and charge me the difference. I could of just kept my mouth shut and not called, but that just not my style. I hope the packer don't get fired just maybe a pee pee smacking, everybody makes mistakes, it turned out well.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hhlragnarok*
> 
> Can u show some close up photos of the motherboard clearance with the top radiator fans and the bottom radiator with the panels conceals the HDD cages?
> 
> *what is the maximum height of the motherboard/RAM when using 140mm fans push+pull with 60 radiator?*
> 
> Thanks~~~


~43mm

There is 70mm from the top of the mobo to the top of the case (& room for a set of fans on top of the case under the filter), so 25mm thick fans under a 60mm rad will overhang the top 15mm of the motherboard. There is about 44mm of offset for a 140-series rad (54mm offset for a 120-series rad) so if you don't have anything taller than ~43mm at the top ~15mm of the board it should fit with a 60mm thick 140-series rad, but you'll probably need to plug in your CPU cables and maybe your ram too or what all else at the top of the board before installing your rad, or at least the push fans on it.
.


----------



## hhlragnarok

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> ~43mm
> 
> There is 70mm from the top of the mobo to the top of the case (& room for a set of fans on top of the case under the filter), so 25mm thick fans under a 60mm rad will overhang the top 15mm of the motherboard. There is about 44mm of offset for a 140-series rad (54mm offset for a 120-series rad) so if you don't have anything taller than ~43mm at the top ~15mm of the board it should fit with a 60mm thick 140-series rad, but you'll probably need to plug in your CPU cables and maybe your ram too or what all else at the top of the board before installing your rad, or at least the push fans on it.
> .


thanks! I got Asus gryphon z87 and Slim rams. Just measure it and should be alright


----------



## simsim44

Update to the pressure latch I ordered two that's 2 packs of 4 ( so I would like to believe I would receive 8 pieces). ah yea. I will call Monday morning.
They are, however, the correct ones.




heres a link

http://www.homeclick.com/sugatsune-pr-4pk-non-magnetic-mini-touch-latch-body-set-of-4/p-332772.aspx


----------



## doyll

Thanks for the update.


----------



## Jared485

Will the lamptron FC6 fit in the drive bay when the door is closed? do the knobs hit the door??


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jared485*
> 
> Will the lamptron FC6 fit in the drive bay when the door is closed? do the knobs hit the door??


the cw 611 fits perfectly. However, given the Phanteks system to hold drives in Bay is not an easy task to secure it on the left side (acrylic panel side) of the case, since you don't have any way to screw it in. Here is a picture of it:



notice I try to secure it using a screw from the inside of the drive bay.


----------



## Jared485

how much space do you think there is between the screen of the fan controller and the door.. the FC6 has knobs for adjustment its not touch, im worried i wont be able to close the door all the way..

Are you suggesting i could just pull the controller back into the drive bay so the door has room to shut and then secure it whatever way i can?


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jared485*
> 
> how much space do you think there is between the screen of the fan controller and the door.. the FC6 has knobs for adjustment its not touch, im worried i wont be able to close the door all the way..
> 
> Are you suggesting i could just pull the controller back into the drive bay so the door has room to shut and then secure it whatever way i can?


the cw611 have a small knob too but I guess it is like1/3 of the size the ones you have in yours. You can actually place the controller a few cm back yes. Mine is already a little bit displaced but it does not look bad, on the contrary. Align well with the drive bays covers internal end. In any case the Enthoo Primo already have some clearance from the door since is already receded like 3-5 mm.


----------



## Jared485

OK, so it may fit as is, but if i doesnt i can slide it back a a tad to get it to fit since mounting holes are hard to use anyways, thank you i appreciate it!


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> the cw 611 fits perfectly. However, given the Phanteks system to hold drives in Bay is not an easy task to secure it on the left side (acrylic panel side) of the case, since you don't have any way to screw it in. Here is a picture of it:
> 
> 
> 
> notice I try to secure it using a screw from the inside of the drive bay.


I screwed in my Lamptron CW611 (btw, AWESOME watercooling fan/pump controller!!) on both sides from the outside. The 'push' drive bay latches will pop on/off easy by just prying the little nubs out of/into the tabs on the top and bottom, then you can screw in the controller. To add the push-latch back you can just remove the two little studs from it.

screwed in:


latch replaced (studs removed):


----------



## Gabrielzm

Yep, was wondering if those latches would not come off easily but have been too occupied with the rest of the system to look at what others have done or the manual. Thks for confirming that will get to it soon.

cheers

PS- Are you using the cw611 to control which pump? PWM or voltage regulated pump?


----------



## Roxycon

Ive secured my bayres using the latches







put some tubing at the back so the pins would go onto the holes in the device... only thing about the case that isnt watercooling friendly imo


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Yep, was wondering if those latches would not come off easily but have been too occupied with the rest of the system to look at what others have done or the manual. Thks for confirming that will get to it soon.
> 
> cheers
> 
> PS- *Are you using the cw611 to control which pump? PWM or voltage regulated pump?*


I'm not using it to control the pump. I've got a D5 vario and it doesn't work well at all with voltage control (unless you break it open and wire it up to the other side of its built-in potentiometer), but really unless you have a DDC (aka MCP35x, PMP400) pump that's prone to overheating-related failures when run at full speed, there's little-to-no need/benefit to changing the flow rate on a pump anyway, especially with a D5 as it's pretty much set it to whatever speed works best for you and leave it there 24/7. The fastest speeds on a D5 often increase loop temps because it already has a high flow rate unless you have more than an average amount of restriction in your loop. At some point a faster flow rate has only negligible benefits by itself, but that benefit sometimes gets lost with the D5 as it adds more pump heat to the loop at faster speeds (D5s are water-cooled- dump heat into the loop. DDCs are air cooled - dump heat into your case). There's a couple recent threads on here where people are finding their loop temps run a few degrees cooler under load / when benchmarking at D5 vario speeds of '2' or '3' than they do with the pump set on '4' or '5'.

Anyway, if I was running a DDC I'd probably setup an automatic profile to keep the speed set low & only increase pump speed at a certain temp threshold, but with a D5 I see no reason to. I have my fans set in automatic profiles on three channels based on loop temps from 3 inline temp sensors. I also have a koolance flow sensor hooked to the CW611 so I can monitor LPH/GPH flow rates on one channel.


----------



## Essenbe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jared485*
> 
> Will the lamptron FC6 fit in the drive bay when the door is closed? do the knobs hit the door??


I intend to get one but haven't yet, but I have a Sunbeam Rehobus controller in now which has knobs. It sits back about 1/8" from the front ( a guess). Until you asked that question, I hadn't even noticed. It does not look bad at all, and the door completely closes.


----------



## Liqu1dShadow

I'm using a dual bay res, and its a good fit, the Level10GT case is not good for the Bay res as the hols don't seem to line up :/ which was pretty bad for a £230 case! Primo is built a lot better!

Can see the bay res with all latches in place, strong hold as well


As you can see its a heavy unit


here is a front/right side pic


----------



## Jared485

Those knobs look to be close to the same length as the fan controller im looking at. im guna give it a go and see what happens ill def post and let you all know.


----------



## borax

So I completed my rig finally!!


----------



## simsim44

That looks nice, like the nuclear green look.
I am really digging the ridged tubing look, I will have to run a flexible tube until I am sure I have the best loop set up, I don't want to have to do it twice. I can not wait till the rest of my order gets here.


----------



## OutlawII

Borax!! That is a beautiful build dude excellent work!!


----------



## borax

Hehe thanks guys







took quite a while to get to that stage, now I'm just having fun oc ' in th he'll outa it..


----------



## simsim44

I notice that you have the bottom rad fans on/in exhaust mode, I thought of doing this myself, how is this working OK?


----------



## Essenbe

Great looking build, Borax. Congratulations on all the hard work I know it is not easy to get a build to look that good.


----------



## borax

I have both bottom and top in exhaust mainly because I wanted to show the corsair fans. At the moment my temps idle on a 4770k and a gtx 780 at around 32 and in load 42 after a few hours work of prime and unigine heaven. The rads are ek 47mm top and bottom. Seems to be keeping the bits n pieces cool as a cucumber..


----------



## simsim44

thanks that's good to know.


----------



## doyll

@ borax
Looks very nice!









Would be interested in seeing what temps do if you raised the case up on some 25-35mm blocks... one under each of the corner base pads. I'm guessing (hoping) bottom radiator temps will go down.


----------



## borax

Thanks doyll









I am planning on raising it onto a custom built shelf also because of dust from the carpet might be an issue later on down the line, i shall report back temps etc when it is raised! Must say i am loving the case gave me so many different oportunities to build through.


----------



## doyll

Adding 35-35mm space between bottom of case and what it's setting on that gives you about 400sq cm more vent area to bottom case vents... the base only have about 95sq cm of area... less than the area of a 120mm fan.


----------



## OutlawII

I raised my case up using some old pucks from a Haf 932 it seemed to help the temps somewhat but i did not document anything! Also i have my bottom Rad fans as intake top rad as exhaust do u guys think i should switch top to intake as well? I would only have the 140mm on back of case as exhaust then,what u guys think?


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OutlawII*
> 
> I raised my case up using some old pucks from a Haf 932 it seemed to help the temps somewhat but i did not document anything! Also i have my bottom Rad fans as intake top rad as exhaust do u guys think i should switch top to intake as well? I would only have the 140mm on back of case as exhaust then,what u guys think?


That´s the arrangement I have right now. All rads as intake (top, front, bottom, side) and only the rear fan as exhaust. With this arrangement I notice a small pocket of hot air in front (bays) where both the 2 pumps and the fan controller sits. I solve the problem putting a 120 mm fan there as intake too on the drive bays. Pretty happy with temperatures. Is quite hot down here now and water temps were only 2-3 degrees above ambient temps and under stress (gaming) was like 7-8 degrees above ambient.


----------



## OutlawII

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> That´s the arrangement I have right now. All rads as intake (top, front, bottom, side) and only the rear fan as exhaust. With this arrangement I notice a small pocket of hot air in front (bays) where both the 2 pumps and the fan controller sits. I solve the problem putting a 120 mm fan there as intake too on the drive bays. Pretty happy with temperatures. Is quite hot down here now and water temps were only 2-3 degrees above ambient temps and under stress (gaming) was like 7-8 degrees above ambient.


Ok maybe i will switch the fans around on that top rad and see what happens. That avatar of yours kills me everytime i see it


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OutlawII*
> 
> Ok maybe i will switch the fans around on that top rad and see what happens. That avatar of yours kills me everytime i see it










I found that funny too. That is a Czech beer (good one but not the best - I rather have the Czechvar = original Budvar). If you do switch the fan/rads try to keep track of temps. I would be interested to see how much difference would make as intake x exhaust.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Static-LNX*
> 
> Is there any problems using a swiftech h220 with this case? I'm looking for a case for my little teenager brother and I've already got an AIO cooler for him


Big case for am AIO.... have you looked at the Enthoo Luxe ?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jared485*
> 
> Will the lamptron FC6 fit in the drive bay when the door is closed? do the knobs hit the door??


Reeven Six Eyes does ..... tho the buttons do "press in" so even work with flush doors.

I popped the latches off and after installing put them back on w/o removing anything to secure one side

As for pump speed, I much prefer speed control. Rather have two pumps running at half speed than one running at high speed.....I really don't hear the pump until it get a up at about 75%, so running 2 at 40% is better than one at 80%. Send temp sensors do show considerable differences in rad in / rad out temps. At 30C I'm about 1600 rpm ....at 40C, 2000 rpm.....at 50C, 2400 rpm, about 65C I hit 3200 rpm...at 70C I''m at 70% PWM but with the 35x2's wierd curve, that's 100% flow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OutlawII*
> 
> Ok maybe i will switch the fans around on that top rad and see what happens. That avatar of yours kills me everytime i see it


If ya look at radiator performance one thing that is noiticeable today is that extra thickness doesn't really help. What that tells me is that the air is pretty much saturated with heat by the time it gets thru the rad. So ya profile looks like this

22C Ambient
____________
23
24
25
26
27
28
29
30
____________

And ya water temp is exiting the rad at 32C.....

So if the next rad is using theta exhaust air .... it's intake air temp is up near 30C make (maybe 27-28 with case ventilation) which is at best half the Delta T that the 1st rad had....the 2nd rad is therefore working at half the efficiency. Of course hi case ventilation cfm will help.


----------



## Static-LNX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> Big case for am AIO.... have you looked at the Enthoo Luxe ?
> Reeven Six Eyes does ..... tho the buttons do "press in" so even work with flush doors.


I like the size then again I've owned a Silverstone TJ-11 since they've come out so maybe my preference is skewed a bit towards large cases...


----------



## Static-LNX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Static-LNX*
> 
> I like the size then again I've owned a Silverstone TJ-11 since they've come out so maybe my preference is skewed a bit towards large cases...


Plus the entire reason for that AIO was to get him started with water-cooling that he can expand with more rads/blocks/pumps/reservoirs later


----------



## simsim44

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> Big case for am AIO.... have you looked at the Enthoo Luxe ?
> Reeven Six Eyes does ..... tho the buttons do "press in" so even work with flush doors.
> 
> I popped the latches off and after installing put them back on w/o removing anything to secure one side
> 
> As for pump speed, I much prefer speed control. Rather have two pumps running at half speed than one running at high speed.....I really don't hear the pump until it get a up at about 75%, so running 2 at 40% is better than one at 80%. Send temp sensors do show considerable differences in rad in / rad out temps. At 30C I'm about 1600 rpm ....at 40C, 2000 rpm.....at 50C, 2400 rpm, about 65C I hit 3200 rpm...at 70C I''m at 70% PWM but with the 35x2's wierd curve, that's 100% flow
> If ya look at radiator performance one thing that is noiticeable today is that extra thickness doesn't really help. What that tells me is that the air is pretty much saturated with heat by the time it gets thru the rad. So ya profile looks like this
> 
> 22C Ambient
> ____________
> 23
> 24
> 25
> 26
> 27
> 28
> 29
> 30
> ____________
> 
> And ya water temp is exiting the rad at 32C.....
> 
> So if the next rad is using theta exhaust air .... it's intake air temp is up near 30C make (maybe 27-28 with case ventilation) which is at best half the Delta T that the 1st rad had....the 2nd rad is therefore working at half the efficiency. Of course hi case ventilation cfm will help.


I know this to be true, being in the auto industry for a good many years. That's why I went with 2-360x 30mm and a 240x30, more surface area vs thickness allows a greater volume of cooler air across the entire rad surface, basic latent heat transfer , the lower you can keep the exhaust temp the lower the operating temp.


----------



## dirtyblacksocks

Sorry to flood this glorious thread with questions - but has anyone replaced the LED lighting in the system yet? I want this case, but I need it in red - the fans don't matter - the LED does. I need to know how hard it is to replace.

I'd love to get a Case Labs, but I'm a broke peon, so this is the next best thing in my eyes.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dirtyblacksocks*
> 
> Sorry to flood this glorious thread with questions - but has anyone replaced the LED lighting in the system yet? I want this case, but I need it in red - the fans don't matter - the LED does. I need to know how hard it is to replace.
> 
> I'd love to get a Case Labs, but I'm a broke peon, so this is the next best thing in my eyes.


http://themodzoo.com/forum/index.php?/topic/883-enthoo-primo-front-led-color-change/

here we go mate.


----------



## dirtyblacksocks

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> http://themodzoo.com/forum/index.php?/topic/883-enthoo-primo-front-led-color-change/
> 
> here we go mate.


Thank you sir.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Static-LNX*
> 
> Plus the entire reason for that AIO was to get him started with water-cooling that he can expand with more rads/blocks/pumps/reservoirs later


But AIOs (aka CLC's for "closed" loop coolers) are generally not expandable..... in addition with an aluminum rad, I'd not wanna have that in a system with later bought quality components. The Swiftech is .... well theoretically, and it only offers 120mm rads to my recollection limiting ya choices.... I'd start out in the primo w/ either a 280 in the bottom or 420 on top.

Perhaps a kit system ?

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/16550/ex-wat-218/XSPC_Raystorm_EX420_Extreme_Universal_CPU_Water_Cooling_Kit_w_D5_Variant_Pump_Included_and_Free_Dead-Water.html?tl=g30c321s1310


----------



## simsim44

Quick question guys , I am the homedepot to get screws for the fans i got today can any body tell me the size , ran out of the house without my sample, I think i put it down when I got my coat .anyhow , 3x30?


----------



## grifftech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *simsim44*
> 
> Quick question guys , I am the homedepot to get screws for the fans i got today can any body tell me the size , ran out of the house without my sample, I think i put it down when I got my coat .anyhow , 3x30?


They are a self tapping screw, with a coarse thread. but I don't know what the exact standard is. I tried googling it but couldn't find anything.


----------



## grifftech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *simsim44*
> 
> Quick question guys , I am the homedepot to get screws for the fans i got today can any body tell me the size , ran out of the house without my sample, I think i put it down when I got my coat .anyhow , 3x30?


Just found some info, 7/32 or 5.5mm. If that helps


----------



## grifftech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *simsim44*
> 
> Quick question guys , I am the homedepot to get screws for the fans i got today can any body tell me the size , ran out of the house without my sample, I think i put it down when I got my coat .anyhow , 3x30?


Here is a close up of one with other common case screws http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/FileC_Screws.jpg


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *simsim44*
> 
> Quick question guys , I am the homedepot to get screws for the fans i got today can any body tell me the size , ran out of the house without my sample, I think i put it down when I got my coat .anyhow , 3x30?


Fans usually come with screws to screw to a case. The little toolbox that comes with the Enthoo Primo has a handful of case fan screws.

Do you need screws to screw them into a radiator? I suspect that's what you mean since you mentioned "3x30". If so, what type rad are you talking about?

Alphacool and EK rads have M3-0.5 threads
Hardwarelabs GTX/SR1 and Koolance rads have M4-0.7 threads.
XSPC and Swiftech rads have 6-32 UNC threads.

30mm is typical length screw to attach the fan to the rad or through the fan + case to the rad for thin/flat cases like the Enthoo Primo.
example: Alphacools need M3-0.5 x 30mm screws.


----------



## Static-LNX

The rad is not aluminum...
Material Brass tubes, louvered copper fins
Body dimensions 269mm x 128mm x 29mm
Fill-port thread class G 1/4
Reservoir capacity 90 cc
Barb fittings Integrated swivel 90° elbows, 3/8" (10mm) OD

The pump used is the same or better than the apogeedrive2 http://www.swiftech.com/apogeedrive2.aspx with a 60,00 MTBF
Motor type Electronically commutated, brushless DC, spherical motor
Nominal voltage 12 V DC
Operating voltage range 9 to 13.4 VDC
Max. nominal power (@12 V) 18 W
Max. nominal current (@12 V) 1.5 A
Max. nominal head (@12 V) 14.7 ft (4.4m)
Max nominal discharge (@12 V) ~ 4.75 GPM (17.5 LPM)
Maximum pressure 22 PSI (1.5 BAR)
Temperature range Up to 140 °F (60 °C)
Electrical power connector Molex 4 pin
PWM + RPM Signals 4-pin connector
Speed adjustment range 1300 to 4500 rpm
RoHS Compliant
MTBF 50,000 Hours

Watch


----------



## simsim44

thanks guys they didn't have anything smaller than 5mm or over 20mm long, so I went to lowes, and I ran out of time my future ex wife called to tell me we were going out to dinner. for my Bday I thought I saw them in the online catalog for lowes in a 25 or 30 pack. tomorrow is another day. I thank you for your help

edit;
I have XSPC ex360 and ax240 and a old swifttech 360, I didn't realize there were any difference between companies for rad screws, thought there was a standard.so I would have gotten the wrong ones anyway. I did ask my girl to measure them she kept telling me 3mm I didn't believe her.


----------



## owcraftsman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *simsim44*
> 
> thanks guys they didn't have anything smaller than 5mm or over 20mm long, so I went to lowes, and I ran out of time my future ex wife called to tell me we were going out to dinner. for my Bday I thought I saw them in the online catalog for lowes in a 25 or 30 pack. tomorrow is another day. I thank you for your help
> 
> edit;
> I have XSPC ex360 and ax240 and a old swifttech 360, I didn't realize there were any difference between companies for rad screws, thought there was a standard.so I would have gotten the wrong ones anyway. I did ask my girl to measure them she kept telling me 3mm I didn't believe her.


well then Happy B day

Try Ace or Family Hardware store sometimes they have better/different selections


----------



## simsim44

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *owcraftsman*
> 
> well then Happy B day
> 
> Try Ace or Family Hardware store sometimes they have better/different selections


Will do. thank you. they are 6/32


----------



## grifftech

For my 2 Alphacools I ran out and found just what I needed at ACE, Lowes, Home Depot and Menards didn't have anything. ACE had M3 30mm in their metric section and I cleaned them out


----------



## grifftech

Working on my cable management and I am wonder what the female molex labeled LED Strip is for? I have the 12V input plugged in and the LED strip works but I can't for the life of me figure out the female LED strip molex.

Thanks


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *simsim44*
> 
> Will do. thank you. they are 6/32


The 6-32 thread is imperial so the closest length to what you'll need that you'll probably be able to find is 1 1/4" = 32mm. The next smaller commonly found length is 1" = 25.4mm which is too short.

You might want to consider getting washers to go with them just to help make sure they don't wind up being a little too long. It's just a couple extra milimeters, but you'll want to be careful to check so you don't puncture a rad.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *grifftech*
> 
> Working on my cable management and I am wonder what the female molex labeled LED Strip is for? I have the 12V input plugged in and the LED strip works but I can't for the life of me figure out the female LED strip molex.
> 
> Thanks


It's so you can add your own LED strip to it.


----------



## grifftech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> The 6-32 thread is imperial so the closest length to what you'll need that you'll probably be able to find is 1 1/4" = 32mm. The next smaller commonly found length is 1" = 25.4mm which is too short.
> 
> You might want to consider getting washers to go with them just to help make sure they don't wind up being a little too long. It's just a couple extra milimeters, but you'll want to be careful to check so you don't puncture a rad.
> It's so you can add your own LED strip to it.


Hmm I tried plugging in a 12v sensor display to it and got nothing. I assume it is 12V output,


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *grifftech*
> 
> Hmm I tried plugging in a 12v sensor display to it and got nothing. I assume it is 12V output,


Yes, it's a 12v output rated up to 1 amp (12 watts) that turns on/off with the LED switch. I have been wiring up custom-made LED strips to it and it works just fine for me.


----------



## grifftech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Yes, it's a 12v output rated up to 1 amp (12 watts) that turns on/off with the LED switch. I have been wiring up custom-made LED strips to it and it works just fine for me.


I will double check it, thanks, man.


----------



## Ouro

Is the white version of this case coming out next month? I'm having a hard time deciding between the Enthoo Primo and Luxe


----------



## hhlragnarok

Does anyone know what is the power limit for the PWM fan hub per channel?

Based on the manual the hub can handle 11 fans in total( fan1 X1, fan2-6 X2). So, that is about 10w per channel?


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hhlragnarok*
> 
> Does anyone know what is the power limit for the PWM fan hub per channel?
> 
> Based on the manual the hub can handle 11 fans in total( fan1 X1, fan2-6 X2). So, that is about 10w per channel?


I know it's been asked, but I don't recall anyone getting that info from Phanteks yet.

The Phanteks PH-F140SP fans the case comes with say on the back of each that they are rated at 0.2 Amps (at 12v that's = 2.4 watts) so I just assumed that's what they were referring to when they rated the hub for 11 fans. ie: about 5 watts for each port / 30 watts overall



Interestingly, the same model fan on their site is listed as 1.4 Amps. Wonder what that's all about?

*Edit:*
Looks like Doyll got this info from a Phanteks rep somehow (posted in the Phanteks forum) which seems to jive pretty much with my assumptions:
Quote:


> I got a short message from Phanteks about PWM hub being packaged a week ago so hopefully will be in stock in 2-4 weeks... He also said he's still waiting for PWM hub specifications but has "*been told that the PWM can only hold 30W max*." I'm assuming that's PWM hub can run up to 30w max. Split 11 ways (control header probably has lower rating) that would be approx 2.7 on Fan 1 header (control header) and 5.4w on the other 5 headers (using 11 fan maximum from manual)


----------



## hhlragnarok

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> I know it's been asked, but I don't recall anyone getting that info from Phanteks yet.
> 
> The Phanteks PH-F140SP fans the case comes with say on the back of each that they are rated at 0.2 Amps (at 12v that's = 2.4 watts) so I just assumed that's what they were referring to when they rated the hub for 11 fans. ie: about 5 watts for each port / 30 watts overall
> 
> 
> 
> Interestingly, the same model fan on their site is listed as 1.4 Amps. Wonder what that's all about?
> 
> *Edit:*
> Looks like Doyll got this info from a Phanteks rep somehow (posted in the Phanteks forum) which seems to jive pretty much with my assumptions:


that is quite low....fan options limited.......


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hhlragnarok*
> 
> that is quite low....fan options limited.......


That's what I was thinking, which is why I'm not using the hub. I went and got a fan controller - Lamptron CW611.

FWIW, Phanteks is going to be selling the fan hubs separately so at least theoretically people could use more than one (keep in mind that most mobos only have two actual PWM headers, the CPU_FAN and CPU_OPT, that the fan hub can be plugged into). The mod on their forums posted this today:
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected]*
> PWM hubs will be available for purchase with an ETA of March.


----------



## Gunilla95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hhlragnarok*
> 
> that is quite low....fan options limited.......


Well im running my 7 phanteks fans on the hub + 8 air penetrators (silverstone i think) on 1 of the port with a NZXT grid. works fine when you roll them at lower speed. never go over 50% fan speed anyway no need for it. cant tell if it works at high speed to.


----------



## hhlragnarok

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gunilla95*
> 
> Well im running my 7 phanteks fans on the hub + 8 air penetrators (silverstone i think) on 1 of the port with a NZXT grid. works fine when you roll them at lower speed. never go over 50% fan speed anyway no need for it. cant tell if it works at high speed to.


Well originally I was planning on connecting 9 YL 140mm fans (D14SH-12, 1800rpm max, draws [email protected]) which probably are twice powerful comparing to stock Ph fans (4.56w vs. 2.4w)....and I really like to control them all with PWM.

With the power limit of 30w or so...I would probably have to get another PWM fan controller....any recommendations?


----------



## simsim44

I was digging the Lamptron cw611 I think that's the model number , I am not sure of the spec though. 36whatts per channel

edit
they will not be available until may, it was march, the panel is a brushed aluminum kinda matches the case. heres the link;

http://www.lamptron.com/2013/02/05/introducing-the-lamptron-cw611/


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *simsim44*
> 
> I was digging the Lamptron cw611 I think that's the model number , I am not sure of the spec though. 36whatts per channel
> 
> edit
> they will not be available until may, it was march, the panel is a brushed aluminum kinda matches the case. heres the link;
> 
> http://www.lamptron.com/2013/02/05/introducing-the-lamptron-cw611/


The Lamptron CW611 has been available for quite a while now. I have one. Luv it!

http://www.amazon.com/s?ie=UTF8&field-keywords=Lamptron+cw611
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/19760/bus-348/Lamptron_CW611_36W_-_6_Channel_Aluminum_Liquid_Cooling_Controller_-_Black_CW611.html


----------



## simsim44

Nice! once again I have been misinformed


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *simsim44*
> 
> Nice! once again I have been misinformed


yep I got the cw611 too. Maybe you saw the new one cw 615 or cw 616 .... (which is the same but touchscreen).


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> yep I got the cw611 too. Maybe you saw the new one cw 615 or cw 616 .... (which is the same but touchscreen).


Wow, I didn't realize the CW615 was out already.
It wasn't out and their rep couldn't say when it might be in Dec.

Hmmmmm, I may get one. lol

*EDIT: Nevermind*. I believe that's the C*M*615 you're referring to.
It's only 15 watts per channel and doesn't have watercooling specific features like the CW611. It's been out a while now and is nowhere near as nice of a controller as the CW611.

The CW611 is supposed to be only the first most basic in a new 'CW' line of watercooling controllers from Lamptron, and the other models were originally supposed to come out sometime late in 2013, but their rep posted at the end of November that the newer models weren't going to make it out by the end of the year. Sooooo, still expecting to see one any day now.


----------



## simsim44

yea the web page states "March 2013", like I posted before I need to read sssllooowwer. lol









edit;
went back to the store this morning and picked up screws 50 SS 6/32, black option was not available, also got a pack of flat washers, like hot dogs, 11 screws to a pack and 36 washers to a pack.


----------



## hhlragnarok

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Wow, I didn't realize the CW615 was out already.
> It wasn't out and their rep couldn't say when it might be in Dec.
> 
> Hmmmmm, I may get one. lol
> 
> *EDIT: Nevermind*. I believe that's the C*M*615 you're referring to.
> It's only 15 watts per channel and doesn't have watercooling specific features like the CW611. It's been out a while now and is nowhere near as nice of a controller as the CW611.
> 
> The CW611 is supposed to be only the first most basic in a new 'CW' line of watercooling controllers from Lamptron, and the other models were originally supposed to come out sometime late in 2013, but their rep posted at the end of November that the newer models weren't going to make it out by the end of the year. Sooooo, still expecting to see one any day now.


I've never used a Lamptron CW before. So how does the "target temp" function operate comparing to Asus's Fan Xpert?


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hhlragnarok*
> 
> I've never used a Lamptron CW before. So how does the "target temp" function operate comparing to Asus's Fan Xpert?


The automatic settings on the CW611 lets you choose a min and max fan speed and a target temperature for a channel. I have inline flow meters temp sensors connected to each 'auto'-controlled channel. The fans will run at your min fan speed until the target temp is reached, and then it will begin stepping up the fan speed in increments towards your max fan speed setting. If the temps continue to rise it will increase fan speeds approximately every 2C until it hits your max fan speed setting or the temps begin to go back down.

Unless I'm mistaken (entirely possible - I've never used fan expert for anything personally) Fan Expert relies on CPU temps, which is not as good a factor to consider when controlling fans used on rads in a loop as temp sensors in the loop are imho. For example, if your GPU(s) is/are underwater and getting hot, your fans stay at the same speed unless/until the loop gets so hot as to also affect your CPU temps. I wouldn't want to use it to control a pump either for the same reasons (unless you have DDC/MCP35x/PMP400 pumps which need some way to limit their speeds as they are prone to melt-down if run at full speed for lengths of time). PWM fan control is really only suitable imho for use with a CPU-only cooler.

EDIT:
Here's a video someone posted showing the automatic settings of the CW611. Note that they are pinching an air temp sensor between their fingers to force the temp past their channel target ...


----------



## hhlragnarok

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> The automatic settings on the CW611 lets you choose a min and max fan speed and a target temperature for a channel. I have inline flow meters temp sensors connected to each 'auto'-controlled channel. The fans will run at your min fan speed until the target temp is reached, and then it will begin stepping up the fan speed in increments towards your max fan speed setting. If the temps continue to rise it will increase fan speeds approximately every 2C until it hits your max fan speed setting or the temps begin to go back down.
> 
> Unless I'm mistaken (entirely possible - I've never used fan expert for anything personally) Fan Expert relies on CPU temps, which is not as good a factor to consider when controlling fans used on rads in a loop as temp sensors in the loop are imho. For example, if your GPU(s) is/are underwater and getting hot, your fans stay at the same speed unless/until the loop gets so hot as to also affect your CPU temps. I wouldn't want to use it to control a pump either for the same reasons (unless you have DDC/MCP35x/PMP400 pumps which need some way to limit their speeds as they are prone to melt-down if run at full speed for lengths of time). PWM fan control is really only suitable imho for use with a CPU-only cooler.
> 
> EDIT:
> Here's a video someone posted showing the automatic settings of the CW611. Note that they are pinching an air temp sensor between their fingers to force the temp past their channel target ...


It is half true that the Fan Xpert2 relies on CPU temps but u got the point.
Fan Xpert is actually relies on the temp sensor on the motherboard. As shown below, u can defy which sensor controls which fan( 3 sensor maximum per fan), however there is no direct signal input from the GPU, indeed....
I got a Asus Gryphon Z87 and there are 3 temp sensor cable come with the board, maybe I can tape the sensor onto the GPU to make the Fan Xpert work though, just a thought......

So the CW has 6 temp input, are those sensors come with the unit or u get them seperately?


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Wow, I didn't realize the CW615 was out already.
> It wasn't out and their rep couldn't say when it might be in Dec.
> 
> Hmmmmm, I may get one. lol
> 
> *EDIT: Nevermind*. I believe that's the C*M*615 you're referring to.
> It's only 15 watts per channel and doesn't have watercooling specific features like the CW611. It's been out a while now and is nowhere near as nice of a controller as the CW611.
> 
> The CW611 is supposed to be only the first most basic in a new 'CW' line of watercooling controllers from Lamptron, and the other models were originally supposed to come out sometime late in 2013, but their rep posted at the end of November that the newer models weren't going to make it out by the end of the year. Sooooo, still expecting to see one any day now.


Ha...This is the source of the confusion. Frozen (where I saw) mixed up things. Since aesthetically it is so close to the cw611 I thought it was the same but touchscreen version (didn't check the specs either). But notice that fzcpu give both model numbers (cw and cm615).

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/21814/bus-367/Lamptron_CM615_-_6_Channel_Aluminum_Touch_Screen_Liquid_Cooling_Controller_-_Black_CW615.html


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hhlragnarok*
> 
> It is half true that the Fan Xpert2 relies on CPU temps but u got the point.
> Fan Xpert is actually relies on the temp sensor on the motherboard. As shown below, u can defy which sensor controls which fan( 3 sensor maximum per fan), however there is no direct signal input from the GPU, indeed....
> I got a Asus Gryphon Z87 and there are 3 temp sensor cable come with the board, maybe I can tape the sensor onto the GPU to make the Fan Xpert work though, just a thought......
> 
> So the CW has 6 temp input, are those sensors come with the unit or u get them seperately?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


The controller comes with 6 air temp sensors. I'm not currently using any of them though. I bought inline water temp sensors to use for each of the 3 channels I have fans connected to.

Another reason I'm not thrilled about Fan Expert is I'm not sold on PWM yet. Maybe the Phanteks fan hub would be cool as it lets you use 3-pin fans controlled from a PWM signal but even it apparently isn't rated to handle enough fans to be able to handle push pull on several large rads plus whatever case fans you have. Once you start getting 12-15+ fans, if that many, even with the 12v coming straight from the PSU the PWM signal on many boards just can't handle what the fans need. Heck, some PWM fans apparently require a stronger than normal PWM signal and people report not being able to get more than 3-4 of them to run off a single mobo header even when their 12v is wired to the PSU. When the PWM signal isn't strong enough the fans default to 100%. Then you couple that with the fact that only the CPU headers are actually PWM on most boards and PWM just isn't for me, at least not until I get an Aquaero 6 that can have 4 PWM channels and run a few dozen fans that way. But at what they're asking for an AQ6 that's liable to take me to a few days past never to get one.


----------



## hhlragnarok

I could be wrong...but wasn‘t the CPU temp read through the motherboard socket pin with built-in thermistor? So how could u get the temp with the CW sensor?


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hhlragnarok*
> 
> I could be wrong...but wasn't the CPU temp read through the motherboard socket pin with built-in thermistor? So how could u get the temp with the CW sensor?


I don't think you could. Then again, I wouldn't ever want to. Ideally I'd always want the speed of the fans on my rads to be controlled by the temperature of the fluid in my loop.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *simsim44*
> 
> Quick question guys , I am the homedepot to get screws for the fans i got today can any body tell me the size , ran out of the house without my sample, I think i put it down when I got my coat .anyhow , 3x30?


Case Fans or Rad fans ?

Rad Fans here
http://www.overclock.net/t/1439800/radiator-screws-how-come-we-only-get-half

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Static-LNX*
> 
> The rad is not aluminum...


I was speaking in a general sense there.... didn't move onto the Swiftech until the next sentence.

Quote:


> The pump used is the same or better than the apogeedrive2 http://www.swiftech.com/apogeedrive2.aspx with a 60,00 MTBF


That may be but it is still not a D5 which is the minimum many would consider suitable for an open loop. I am quite familiar with the Swiftech unit....while a step above the H100i, it's
just 2 dBA quieter....as for videos, this one is I think more relevant in that respect .... tho many people say they only use their computer with headphones on so the noise isn't bothersome.

http://martinsliquidlab.org/2013/03/12/swiftech-h220-vs-corsair-h100i-noise-testing/

Don't get me wrong ....as far as AIOs go, the H220 is one of, of not THE, best one out there, .... If he was going to stay with an Open Loop, I'd say great choice .... tho Id put it in the Phanteks Luxe not the Primo but keep in mind:

1. Their performance is comparable to the better air coolers (Phanteks / Noctua) which not only provide similar thermal performance but also are much, much quieter.
2. To "move on" to a full open loop, the rad is likely the only thing that will stay.

OTOH, the XSPC comes with the 2nd best CPU WB and one of the better rads on the market, comes with the D5 pump ..... not to mention that 140mm rad choice is available in 280 and 420.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *grifftech*
> 
> Hmm I tried plugging in a 12v sensor display to it and got nothing. I assume it is 12V output,


You have to feed the LED PCB with 12V and you can connect a LED strip (assuming you buy one) to the other.....Look at the pic again on page 11 of the manual.

1. No. 7 is the 12V input from your PSU .... without that plugged in, no LEDs work.
2. No. 9 is the plug you connect your LED strip to....the aftermarket one you buy if you want one

For them all to work, the LED case button must be pushed in

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hhlragnarok*
> 
> Does anyone know what is the power limit for the PWM fan hub per channel?
> 
> Based on the manual the hub can handle 11 fans in total( fan1 X1, fan2-6 X2). So, that is about 10w per channel?


Using the provided fans, it's about 3.6 per channel for channels 2 - 6 and 1.8 for the 1st channel.

Fan rating on the web site is stipulated at 0.14 amps and 1.8 watts

http://phanteks.com/PH-F140SP.html
Speed (RPM) - 1200 ± 250 rpm
Max Airflow - 82.1 CFM
Acoustical Noise - 19 dB (A)
Static Pressure - 1.33mm H2O
Input Current - 0.14 A (1.68 watts @ 12v)
Rate Voltage - DC 12V
Input Power - 1.8 W

11 fans x 0.14 amps is 18.48 watts @ 12v or 11 x 1.8 = 19.8 watts on the input side for the whole shebang .... 2 fans pulls 0.28 amps gives ya 3.36 watts per channel and 3.6 amps input side.

I have 8 fans plugged in atm w/o adding the 12V connector so 14.4 watts (1.12 amps) / is OK at least on the M6F....Most MoBo headers are rated at 1 amp though some enthusiast boards will do 2 amps .... and ya shud always leave some room in there for start up inrush current.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hhlragnarok*
> 
> that is quite low....fan options limited.......


Given the option to connect 12V power, I don't think we have much to worry about ..... my guess is it could probably handle at least 50% more than that (30 watts) which I can't imagine needing anything bigger.....at least if one is looking for reasonable sound levels.

If ya go to the phanteks site, you will notice Brian from Phanteks just responded to my inquiry stating an ETA of March. I plan on using two, maybe three hubs ....

1. Case Fans (5)
2. Rad Fans (5)

If I ever go to push / pull (see no reason at this point as five SP140s giving me 8.4C Delta T) .... I'll put 6 fans for the top rad on one hub and 4 fans for the bottom rad on the 3rd.... have 3 available Chassis headers on the MoBo and then can control each of the three PCBs independently with FanXpert2.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hhlragnarok*
> 
> Well originally I was planning on connecting 9 YL 140mm fans (D14SH-12, 1800rpm max, draws [email protected]) which probably are twice powerful comparing to stock Ph fans (4.56w vs. 2.4w)....and I really like to control them all with PWM.
> 
> With the power limit of 30w or so...I would probably have to get another PWM fan controller....any recommendations?


Just wanted to note that you don't "need" PWM in order for the PCB to work unless you plan on using the 12V feed to the PCB. The PCB works just fine w/ non PWM MoBo headers. Of course if you choose PWM for whatever reason, you'll need something else, but the end result as far as speeds and noise will be the same. Might wanna try it out 1st w/o the controller using PCBs and then only add the extra expense if you find it wanting.

Given the performance I am seeing with 5 rad fans / 5 case fans at 850 rpm max, (which is the point above which the Phanteks become audible) with just push ..... I really can't see needing anything faster / noisier than that unless ya have over 825 - 1100 watts or more of GFX card load.

Model: D14SH-12
Air Flow: 140 CFM
Fan Speed: 2000 RPM
Noise Level: 48.5 dBA

8 of those will be 57.5 dBA at full speed.....compared to 28dBA for the Phanteks SP .... in other words 8 times as loud based upon published specs.


----------



## simsim44

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> Case Fans or Rad fans ?
> 
> Rad Fans here
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1439800/radiator-screws-how-come-we-only-get-half


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *simsim44*
> 
> yea the web page states "March 2013", like I posted before I need to read sssllooowwer. lol
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> edit;
> went back to the store this morning and picked up screws 50 SS 6/32, black option was not available, also got a pack of flat washers, like hot dogs, 11 screws to a pack and 36 washers to a pack.


Rad screws, thanks for the link I knew I saw it before I couldn't find it yesterday, I went to lowes, they seemed to have a better selection.


----------



## hhlragnarok

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> I don't think you could. Then again, I wouldn't ever want to. Ideally I'd always want the speed of the fans on my rads to be controlled by the temperature of the fluid in my loop.


So my question would be, is it possible to output the CPU temp signal to the fan control panel?


----------



## resetg

So maybe I'm jumping the gun asking a few questions. But I read thru about the last 15 pages and almost the first 100. I also read the entire mod zoo review. Quite a few of my questions have already been answered but I have a few more.

First has anyone attempted to mod the upper front of the case to be able to slide a 480mm radiator the roughly extra 1/4 inch required to mount the radiator with the ports facing the front. Secondly on this topic, I will be using a UT60 radiator up top. I've been considering only using the half of the radiator (over the 5.25 bays) in push/pull and the rear of the radiator in only pull. The possible reasoning behind this is to not have to worry about clearance issues with the motherboard/fans. I also think this will possibly give a cleaner look than the fans overlapping the motherboard as well. If your curious I will be using a ASUS X79 Deluxe motherboard.

Second, I will be using a 480mm Monsta on the bottom of the case in push/pull. With this being said which orientation should I use the fans. Should I suck air from the bottom and release hot air into the case or should I do the opposite. Take air from the case and push it out the bottom? Also for the drain port I was planning on using one of the rear facing ports on the radiator to put a quick connect coupling coming out of the rear of the case. This way I wouldn't have to always have the drain port connected and taking up more space behind the case.

I took pictures and made them all fancy in paint. But 3 hours later the picture upload is telling me one moment still! I'll attempt to reload them again later so that hopefully my jibberish makes sense


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hhlragnarok*
> 
> So my question would be, is it possible to output the CPU temp signal to the fan control panel?


That's what I thought you were asking before when I wrote that I didn't think that you could. Or if it is possible I wouldn't know how unless the mobo specifically had temp probe output pins or some such for just such a purpose.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *resetg*
> 
> So maybe I'm jumping the gun asking a few questions. But I read thru about the last 15 pages and almost the first 100. I also read the entire mod zoo review. Quite a few of my questions have already been answered but I have a few more.
> 
> First has anyone attempted to mod the upper front of the case to be able to slide a 480mm radiator the roughly extra 1/4 inch required to mount the radiator with the ports facing the front. Secondly on this topic, I will be using a UT60 radiator up top. I've been considering only using the half of the radiator (over the 5.25 bays) in push/pull and the rear of the radiator in only pull. The possible reasoning behind this is to not have to worry about clearance issues with the motherboard/fans. I also think this will possibly give a cleaner look than the fans overlapping the motherboard as well. If your curious I will be using a ASUS X79 Deluxe motherboard.
> 
> Second, I will be using a 480mm Monsta on the bottom of the case in push/pull. With this being said which orientation should I use the fans. Should I suck air from the bottom and release hot air into the case or should I do the opposite. Take air from the case and push it out the bottom? Also for the drain port I was planning on using one of the rear facing ports on the radiator to put a quick connect coupling coming out of the rear of the case. This way I wouldn't have to always have the drain port connected and taking up more space behind the case.
> 
> I took pictures and made them all fancy in paint. But 3 hours later the picture upload is telling me one moment still! I'll attempt to reload them again later so that hopefully my jibberish makes sense


There's not enough room / allowances in the design of the top to mount a 480 rad with the ports towards the front. Even if you modded it to do so then the top filter cover would not go back on, at least not without modding it too somehow and I don't see any obvious ways to accomplish either feat. The fan filter cover in the top just fits exactly the four 120 fans on a 480 mounted with the ports towards the rear of the case. If you managed to flip the rad around all the fans would need to be able to move ~25mm or so towards the rear, and that's right where the top push-click fittings for the top filter are located.

A 480 UT60 with push fans would overhang the top 15mm of the mobo with 54mm of offset (so you couldn't have anything taller than 54mm in the top 15mm of the mobo). If that's not acceptable to you you really might want to consider running an Xt45 in push-pull up top instead. An Xt45 in push-pull would not overhang the board at all and would yield better cooling performance than a UT60 in just push or pull. Just tossing that out there.

As far as a drain line goes, a QDC or valve out the back would be one option, or you might consider mounting the rad with the ports towards the front and use one of the bottom-facing ports to mount a 90 deg rotary to a valve or QDC similar to this ...



That's from a 360 monsta installed in push-pull with the ports towards the front of the case so the HDD cages were able to be kept in place, but there's no reason I can see why you couldn't do something similar with a 480 down there, and then your drain port will be behind the right-side panel instead of sticking out the back of the case.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *resetg*
> 
> So maybe I'm jumping the gun asking a few questions. But I read thru about the last 15 pages and almost the first 100. I also read the entire mod zoo review. Quite a few of my questions have already been answered but I have a few more.
> 
> First has anyone attempted to mod the upper front of the case to be able to slide a 480mm radiator the roughly extra 1/4 inch required to mount the radiator with the ports facing the front. Secondly on this topic, I will be using a UT60 radiator up top. I've been considering only using the half of the radiator (over the 5.25 bays) in push/pull and the rear of the radiator in only pull. The possible reasoning behind this is to not have to worry about clearance issues with the motherboard/fans. I also think this will possibly give a cleaner look than the fans overlapping the motherboard as well. If your curious I will be using a ASUS X79 Deluxe motherboard.
> 
> Second, I will be using a 480mm Monsta on the bottom of the case in push/pull. With this being said which orientation should I use the fans. Should I suck air from the bottom and release hot air into the case or should I do the opposite. Take air from the case and push it out the bottom? Also for the drain port I was planning on using one of the rear facing ports on the radiator to put a quick connect coupling coming out of the rear of the case. This way I wouldn't have to always have the drain port connected and taking up more space behind the case.
> 
> I took pictures and made them all fancy in paint. But 3 hours later the picture upload is telling me one moment still! I'll attempt to reload them again later so that hopefully my jibberish makes sense


Taking a step back 1st, what is the ultimate build out of your system ? I mean in the future maybe a 2nd 780 Ti or more ? Not that there's anything wrong with overkill







. but just throwing out that if that's the load, twin 480s is more way than ya need. using the data available at martinsliquidlab site and calculating ya load from published data, I come up with the following based upin a 4820k OC's to 4.8 w/ 1.4v, twin 780 Tis, WC Blocks on RAM, 2 MoBo blocks and a 35x2 double pump:

Heat produced =736 watts stock / 984 watts overclocked to the wall. I usually figure about 60% of that needs to be handled by the rads and that would be 590 watts ... With 1800 rpm fans your UT60-480 and Monsta 480 will provide about 887 watts in push pull ..... 734 in push only.... that's way more than ya need for a target Delta T of 10C.

At 1250 rpm you'd have 621 (63%) watts in push pull and 514 (53%) watts ..... now my build.... same as assumed above but 780s instead of 780 Tis and I didn't cool RAM I was at almost the exact same spot 64% in Push Pull and 53% in push only ..... due to the limited availability of the Phanteks fans, I started out with just push and figured Id add pull later. As it turned out tho .... my Delta T is only 8.4C at 1200 rpm under furmark so I figured why bother adding the other 5 fans...... NOTE if furmark loaded the CPU at 100%, I calculated it to be about 9.8C

So if ya keep the 480s....I'd top out at 1250 rpm fans ....

Other comments ......

1. Rad thickness is almost immaterial .... For example at 1800 rpm, a XT45-480 gives you 343 watts of cooling compared to the 359 offered by the UT60. At 1250 rpm it's 296 and 303 watts ..... now with ya comments about blocking the MoBo and only doing half the rads.....

At 1250 rpm.... UT60-480 gonna give you 125 watts for the sections with single fan and + 152 for those in push pull or 277
At 1250 rpm.... XT60-420 gonna give you 302 watts in push pull w/ no obstruction of MoBo.

That will:

a) Eliminate ya obstruction worry
b) Give you 9% more cooling
c) Let ya use the fans that come with the case
d) Eliminate ya fit issue about ports

I chose to drop from the UT60 to XT45 as otherwise in Push / Pull access to the EPS cable, MPCIA combo card, mem OK LED, voltage monitoring ports and error display was blocked with the UT60.

A XT45-420 on top and Monsta 480 on bottom w/ 1250 rpm Phanteks fans fans will give ya 513 watts w/a single fan and 620 with push / pull.
A XT45-420 on top and Monsta 480 on bottom w/ 1400 rpm Yate Loon (medium speed) fans will give ya 575 watts w/a single fan and 696 with push / pull.

All fans should, IMO, pull air from the outside into the case......Notes:

1. The bottom intake is notable restricted .... doesn't affect me too much with a 280 on the bottom but with 480 down there, you're gonna wanna raise the case off the desk / flow at least 1.5".

2. The top air inlet filter / grille is very restrictive...... I was seeing a 1.3C temp drop across my bottom 280 as compared to the 0.9 drop on the top 420 ..... lifting the case up and removing the filters reduced my delta T by 4C

Your drain port idea was my 2nd choice.... I went with my 1st so I didn't have to carve up case and this option was a lot cleaner.....



If ya go with the 420 on top, bleed / fill ports also become an option.



Here's the calcs I did for ya system .....

Resetg-radcalcs.XLS 10k .XLS file


Use the data with the other info here if ya wanna look at various options.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1457426/radiator-size-estimator


----------



## Fumferknuckle

Hello! I have a few questions about what radiators can and can't be used in the Enthoo Primo. I wish I could, but I don't have time to read all 286 pages. So, I am sorry if my questions have already been answered.
I want to first know how big of a 480 radiator can be put in the top of the case. I want to do push/pull with a 480 in a top. So please list the biggest I should go in height while comfortably having room with push/pull.
My second question is, can you put a 480 rad in the bottom? I do not want to disassemble or modify the metal piece(s) that hide the hard drive and expansion bays. If possible, I would want to fit a http://www.frozencpu.com/products/16237/ex-rad-412/Alphacool_NexXxoS_Monsta_Quad_120mm_Radiator_-_80mm_Thick.html?tl=g30c95s570#blank in the bottom and then put a 280 or something at the top for better piece of mind. Is it possible to do this? If modding is required, what kind of modding would I have to do. I wouldn't mind drilling an extra hole or whatever, but I want to keep the HDD cage metal hiding piece intact.
And my third and final question is, what are my limits for a 240mm rad, in push/pull, in the front of the case. I would like to fit a thick rad, but also keep the top hard drive cage installed. Would it be possible to have that 480 rad in the bottom and the 240 in the front, or would I have to mount the 240 to the side (which isn't a problem).
I just need to know these things so I can plan out my loop and figure out how many fans needed. I would rather have push/pull going that way I could run all the fans at lower rpm. But if it is unrealistic in some situations it's not a big deal.
Thanks for any and all help!


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fumferknuckle*
> 
> Hello! I have a few questions about what radiators can and can't be used in the Enthoo Primo. I wish I could, but I don't have time to read all 286 pages. So, I am sorry if my questions have already been answered.
> I want to first know how big of a 480 radiator can be put in the top of the case. I want to do push/pull with a 480 in a top. So please list the biggest I should go in height while comfortably having room with push/pull.
> My second question is, can you put a 480 rad in the bottom? I do not want to disassemble or modify the metal piece(s) that hide the hard drive and expansion bays. If possible, I would want to fit a http://www.frozencpu.com/products/16237/ex-rad-412/Alphacool_NexXxoS_Monsta_Quad_120mm_Radiator_-_80mm_Thick.html?tl=g30c95s570#blank in the bottom and then put a 280 or something at the top for better piece of mind. Is it possible to do this? If modding is required, what kind of modding would I have to do. I wouldn't mind drilling an extra hole or whatever, but I want to keep the HDD cage metal hiding piece intact.
> And my third and final question is, what are my limits for a 240mm rad, in push/pull, in the front of the case. I would like to fit a thick rad, but also keep the top hard drive cage installed. Would it be possible to have that 480 rad in the bottom and the 240 in the front, or would I have to mount the 240 to the side (which isn't a problem).
> I just need to know these things so I can plan out my loop and figure out how many fans needed. I would rather have push/pull going that way I could run all the fans at lower rpm. But if it is unrealistic in some situations it's not a big deal.
> Thanks for any and all help!


The answers to most of your questions can be found in the FAQs on the first post of this thread.

A 45mm thick 480 (or 420) will fit up top in push-pull with any motherboard. Any thicker of a rad and the radiator will overhang top of the motherboard.

A 480 monsta in push pull will fit in the bottom but you will have to remove the bottom HDD cage (holds 3 HDDs). You can still keep the top HDD cage in place (plus there's also the 2 brackets that can hold 2 SSDs each). The HDD cages are modular and made so they can be moved / removed without any modding. They are secured in place with thumbscrews. If you do not want to lose any of the HDD cages then you can fit a 360 monsta in push pull in the bottom without losing anything. The HDD cages will have to be moved to their most-forward position.

There is not room for a 240 in the front with a 480 in the bottom or with a 360 in the bottom and both HDD cages in place. You could put a 360 in the bottom, lose the bottom HDD cage & then be able to fit a 240 in the front, OR, you can mount a 240 in the right side and a 480 in the bottom, but then you will have to lose both HDD cages.

Do note that any 360 or 480 rads in the bottom cannot be more than 125mm wide. Alphacools fit. Many other types of rads will not.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> The answers to most of your questions can be found in the FAQs on the first post of this thread.
> 
> A 45mm thick 480 (or 420) will fit up top in push-pull with any motherboard. Any thicker of a rad and the radiator will overhang top of the motherboard.
> 
> A 480 monsta in push pull will fit in the bottom but you will have to remove the bottom HDD cage (holds 3 HDDs). You can still keep the top HDD cage in place (plus there's also the 2 brackets that can hold 2 SSDs each). The HDD cages are modular and made so they can be moved / removed without any modding. They are secured in place with thumbscrews. If you do not want to lose any of the HDD cages then you can fit a 360 monsta in push pull in the bottom without losing anything. The HDD cages will have to be moved to their most-forward position.
> 
> There is not room for a 240 in the front with a 480 in the bottom or with a 360 in the bottom and both HDD cages in place. You could put a 360 in the bottom, lose the bottom HDD cage & then be able to fit a 240 in the front, OR, you can mount a 240 in the right side and a 480 in the bottom, but then you will have to lose both HDD cages.
> 
> Do note that any 360 or 480 rads in the bottom cannot be more than 125mm wide. Alphacools fit. Many other types of rads will not.


Yep. Finally you can have (loosing both hd cages) have 480 (or 420) up, 280 bottom and 2x 240 (front and side) which would be one of the largest combination of rad space in the Enthoo without going external.



Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> Taking a step back 1st, what is the ultimate build out of your system ? I mean in the future maybe a 2nd 780 Ti or more ? Not that there's anything wrong with overkill
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . but just throwing out that if that's the load, twin 480s is more way than ya need. using the data available at martinsliquidlab site and calculating ya load from published data, I come up with the following based upin a 4820k OC's to 4.8 w/ 1.4v, twin 780 Tis, WC Blocks on RAM, 2 MoBo blocks and a 35x2 double pump:
> 
> Heat produced =736 watts stock / 984 watts overclocked to the wall. I usually figure about 60% of that needs to be handled by the rads and that would be 590 watts ... With 1800 rpm fans your UT60-480 and Monsta 480 will provide about 887 watts in push pull ..... 734 in push only.... that's way more than ya need for a target Delta T of 10C.
> 
> At 1250 rpm you'd have 621 (63%) watts in push pull and 514 (53%) watts ..... now my build.... same as assumed above but 780s instead of 780 Tis and I didn't cool RAM I was at almost the exact same spot 64% in Push Pull and 53% in push only ..... due to the limited availability of the Phanteks fans, I started out with just push and figured Id add pull later. As it turned out tho .... my Delta T is only 8.4C at 1200 rpm under furmark so I figured why bother adding the other 5 fans...... NOTE if furmark loaded the CPU at 100%, I calculated it to be about 9.8C
> 
> So if ya keep the 480s....I'd top out at 1250 rpm fans ....
> 
> Other comments ......
> 
> 1. Rad thickness is almost immaterial .... For example at 1800 rpm, a XT45-480 gives you 343 watts of cooling compared to the 359 offered by the UT60. At 1250 rpm it's 296 and 303 watts ..... now with ya comments about blocking the MoBo and only doing half the rads.....
> 
> At 1250 rpm.... UT60-480 gonna give you 125 watts for the sections with single fan and + 152 for those in push pull or 277
> At 1250 rpm.... XT60-420 gonna give you 302 watts in push pull w/ no obstruction of MoBo.
> 
> That will:
> 
> a) Eliminate ya obstruction worry
> b) Give you 9% more cooling
> c) Let ya use the fans that come with the case
> d) Eliminate ya fit issue about ports
> 
> I chose to drop from the UT60 to XT45 as otherwise in Push / Pull access to the EPS cable, MPCIA combo card, mem OK LED, voltage monitoring ports and error display was blocked with the UT60.
> 
> A XT45-420 on top and Monsta 480 on bottom w/ 1250 rpm Phanteks fans fans will give ya 513 watts w/a single fan and 620 with push / pull.
> A XT45-420 on top and Monsta 480 on bottom w/ 1400 rpm Yate Loon (medium speed) fans will give ya 575 watts w/a single fan and 696 with push / pull.
> 
> All fans should, IMO, pull air from the outside into the case......Notes:
> 
> 1. The bottom intake is notable restricted .... doesn't affect me too much with a 280 on the bottom but with 480 down there, you're gonna wanna raise the case off the desk / flow at least 1.5".
> 
> 2. The top air inlet filter / grille is very restrictive...... I was seeing a 1.3C temp drop across my bottom 280 as compared to the 0.9 drop on the top 420 ..... lifting the case up and removing the filters reduced my delta T by 4C
> 
> Your drain port idea was my 2nd choice.... I went with my 1st so I didn't have to carve up case and this option was a lot cleaner.....
> 
> 
> 
> If ya go with the 420 on top, bleed / fill ports also become an option.
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the calcs I did for ya system .....
> 
> Resetg-radcalcs.XLS 10k .XLS file
> 
> 
> Use the data with the other info here if ya wanna look at various options.
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1457426/radiator-size-estimator








Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *resetg*
> 
> So maybe I'm jumping the gun asking a few questions. But I read thru about the last 15 pages and almost the first 100. I also read the entire mod zoo review. Quite a few of my questions have already been answered but I have a few more.
> 
> First has anyone attempted to mod the upper front of the case to be able to slide a 480mm radiator the roughly extra 1/4 inch required to mount the radiator with the ports facing the front. Secondly on this topic, I will be using a UT60 radiator up top. I've been considering only using the half of the radiator (over the 5.25 bays) in push/pull and the rear of the radiator in only pull. The possible reasoning behind this is to not have to worry about clearance issues with the motherboard/fans. I also think this will possibly give a cleaner look than the fans overlapping the motherboard as well. If your curious I will be using a ASUS X79 Deluxe motherboard.
> 
> Second, I will be using a 480mm Monsta on the bottom of the case in push/pull. With this being said which orientation should I use the fans. Should I suck air from the bottom and release hot air into the case or should I do the opposite. Take air from the case and push it out the bottom? Also for the drain port I was planning on using one of the rear facing ports on the radiator to put a quick connect coupling coming out of the rear of the case. This way I wouldn't have to always have the drain port connected and taking up more space behind the case.
> 
> I took pictures and made them all fancy in paint. But 3 hours later the picture upload is telling me one moment still! I'll attempt to reload them again later so that hopefully my jibberish makes sense






Yep, I agree with Jack. I have a 480 mm xt45 top, a very slim 30mm xspc 280 mm bottom and 2x 240mm (also 30 mm OCool) front. With fans in push and pull (except the top rad with only half of it in push/pull) I got like 8 degrees C of delta under heavy prime95. Hell, even running prime95 blend test and call of duty ghost at the same time







gave me only 8 degrees C of delta (amb. temp of 30 C water temp around 37.5) with fans at 48% (GT AP15 and Phanteeks 140 mm). If I would build today I would go with a 420 xt45 on top (in fact I already order that to replace the 480 mm xt45. One additional advantage over the 480 mm (besides those cited by Jack) is that you have a little more room on the drive bays. From my measurements I think you could squeeze the fan controller on the top bay (to be confirmed yet when the parts arrived).


----------



## hhlragnarok

Right..... I'm just about to do hybrid (watercooling CPU + aircooling GPU) so I was thinking about controlling the fans with CPU temp.

But it does make more sense to control the fans with water temp when doing full water cooling and that is what I'm going for now.

Thank you~


----------



## hhlragnarok

When I'm considering hydraulic resistance.....a question came up....... Does anyone run their 420 rad in low position using the "front" connections instead of the "top" ones？


----------



## Roxycon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fumferknuckle*
> 
> Hello! I have a few questions about what radiators can and can't be used in the Enthoo Primo. I wish I could, but I don't have time to read all 286 pages. So, I am sorry if my questions have already been answered.
> I want to first know how big of a 480 radiator can be put in the top of the case. I want to do push/pull with a 480 in a top. So please list the biggest I should go in height while comfortably having room with push/pull.
> My second question is, can you put a 480 rad in the bottom? I do not want to disassemble or modify the metal piece(s) that hide the hard drive and expansion bays. If possible, I would want to fit a http://www.frozencpu.com/products/16237/ex-rad-412/Alphacool_NexXxoS_Monsta_Quad_120mm_Radiator_-_80mm_Thick.html?tl=g30c95s570#blank in the bottom and then put a 280 or something at the top for better piece of mind. Is it possible to do this? If modding is required, what kind of modding would I have to do. I wouldn't mind drilling an extra hole or whatever, but I want to keep the HDD cage metal hiding piece intact.
> And my third and final question is, what are my limits for a 240mm rad, in push/pull, in the front of the case. I would like to fit a thick rad, but also keep the top hard drive cage installed. Would it be possible to have that 480 rad in the bottom and the 240 in the front, or would I have to mount the 240 to the side (which isn't a problem).
> I just need to know these things so I can plan out my loop and figure out how many fans needed. I would rather have push/pull going that way I could run all the fans at lower rpm. But if it is unrealistic in some situations it's not a big deal.
> Thanks for any and all help!


With a 45 mm thick in the top and a 80 mm in the bottom and 3 sets of fans (one set in top compartment of course) you could even fit a 360 in the middle like i did







a 240 will also fit nice with no restraint in how many sets of fans you use









This would then limit you to either a bay res or a small tube res though and tubing can get a bit tricky with the 360, but i think mine turned out ok

Edit: the 360 could also work with a 420 up top but i dont got first hand experience going that route and welcome to the forums


----------



## resetg

Thanks for all that amazing info Jack!

But I guess from the get-go my thoughts of this build were completely overkill. So I kinda kept with the theme! I've always been on the side of to-much is better than not enough! But with the idea of complete overkill on the rads was to attempt to run lower fan speeds in an attempt to keep the system from sounding like a turbo diesel taking off!

Part of the idea of turning the upper radiator around was also to keep the actual loop itself smaller. Where it would be the entire distance of the case to get to the rad to about 6-7 inches at most. I really like that idea of the drain much better than cutting through the rear of the case!

But in my excitement I sorta jumped the gun and already bought the radiators.....part of the reason I ordered before thinking was all the vids I've seen showed 480's up top in push/pull like it was nothing (demo videos on newegg).

I can't get pics to load so here's a direct link:
http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d31/resetg/20140205_150545-1.jpg


----------



## simsim44

Has anybody tried to mount this here, I can not afford another 600 bucks right now so the mobo and GPU blocks and the ridged tube will wait I tried to mount it on the side like I've seen but the vid cards is making it way to tight.


there is not enough room for the tubes/fittings to get it mounted here



I think once the GPU blocks are on there will be enough room, I did modify the reservoir mount then I trimmed the plastic cover to match it came out nice.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *simsim44*
> 
> Has anybody tried to mount this here, I can not afford another 600 bucks right now so the mobo and GPU blocks and the ridged tube will wait I tried to mount it on the side like I've seen but the vid cards is making it way to tight.
> 
> 
> there is not enough room for the tubes/fittings to get it mounted here
> 
> 
> 
> I think once the GPU blocks are on there will be enough room, I did modify the reservoir mount then I trimmed the plastic cover to match it came out nice.
> 
> [/quote





]

That back position below the rear fan is a good spot no doubt. Have thought about it too but in my case the Ek reservoir fits with still space on the reservoir bracket despite the two 10.5" cards in sli there. What tube is that one photon?


----------



## hhlragnarok

One thing....what is the water temp sensor that u are using? are they capatible with all fan panel as long as it offers 2-pin sensor plug?


----------



## Fumferknuckle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roxycon*
> 
> With a 45 mm thick in the top and a 80 mm in the bottom and 3 sets of fans (one set in top compartment of course) you could even fit a 360 in the middle like i did
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> a 240 will also fit nice with no restraint in how many sets of fans you use
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This would then limit you to either a bay res or a small tube res though and tubing can get a bit tricky with the 360, but i think mine turned out ok
> 
> Edit: the 360 could also work with a 420 up top but i dont got first hand experience going that route and welcome to the forums


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> The answers to most of your questions can be found in the FAQs on the first post of this thread.
> 
> A 45mm thick 480 (or 420) will fit up top in push-pull with any motherboard. Any thicker of a rad and the radiator will overhang top of the motherboard.
> 
> A 480 monsta in push pull will fit in the bottom but you will have to remove the bottom HDD cage (holds 3 HDDs). You can still keep the top HDD cage in place (plus there's also the 2 brackets that can hold 2 SSDs each). The HDD cages are modular and made so they can be moved / removed without any modding. They are secured in place with thumbscrews. If you do not want to lose any of the HDD cages then you can fit a 360 monsta in push pull in the bottom without losing anything. The HDD cages will have to be moved to their most-forward position.
> 
> There is not room for a 240 in the front with a 480 in the bottom or with a 360 in the bottom and both HDD cages in place. You could put a 360 in the bottom, lose the bottom HDD cage & then be able to fit a 240 in the front, OR, you can mount a 240 in the right side and a 480 in the bottom, but then you will have to lose both HDD cages.
> 
> Do note that any 360 or 480 rads in the bottom cannot be more than 125mm wide. Alphacools fit. Many other types of rads will not.


Holy balls. The options are amazing. I think I will end up doing a 480 monsta in the bottom (push/pull) and a 45mm 480 in the top as well with push/pull. But how in the blue hell did you get that 360 in the middle?? That's insane! Your build looks similar as to what I am trying to achieve. I am going to get the white version of the Primo and do white tubing, with a mostly black mobo with red accents, and then maybe get SP120s and have the red ring in them for added color.
As a side note, does anyone know if I can get white and red (or only red or only white) modular cables for a psu from Corsair, and if they will work with any psu? I have a 1000 watt (overkill) EVGA psu and would love to get custom cables to add more jazz to the build.
Oh, and how did you do all of your fans? Did you link them to the back PWM controller, or did you get extenders so it could reach the PWM?


----------



## hhlragnarok

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> The controller comes with 6 air temp sensors. I'm not currently using any of them though. I bought inline water temp sensors to use for each of the 3 channels I have fans connected to.
> 
> Another reason I'm not thrilled about Fan Expert is I'm not sold on PWM yet. Maybe the Phanteks fan hub would be cool as it lets you use 3-pin fans controlled from a PWM signal but even it apparently isn't rated to handle enough fans to be able to handle push pull on several large rads plus whatever case fans you have. Once you start getting 12-15+ fans, if that many, even with the 12v coming straight from the PSU the PWM signal on many boards just can't handle what the fans need. Heck, some PWM fans apparently require a stronger than normal PWM signal and people report not being able to get more than 3-4 of them to run off a single mobo header even when their 12v is wired to the PSU. When the PWM signal isn't strong enough the fans default to 100%. Then you couple that with the fact that only the CPU headers are actually PWM on most boards and PWM just isn't for me, at least not until I get an Aquaero 6 that can have 4 PWM channels and run a few dozen fans that way. But at what they're asking for an AQ6 that's liable to take me to a few days past never to get one.


Are all the 2-pin water temp sensors universal so they can be correctly read through most of the fan controller panel?


----------



## Roxycon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fumferknuckle*
> 
> Holy balls. The options are amazing. I think I will end up doing a 480 monsta in the bottom (push/pull) and a 45mm 480 in the top as well with push/pull. But how in the blue hell did you get that 360 in the middle?? That's insane! Your build looks similar as to what I am trying to achieve. I am going to get the white version of the Primo and do white tubing, with a mostly black mobo with red accents, and then maybe get SP120s and have the red ring in them for added color.
> As a side note, does anyone know if I can get white and red (or only red or only white) modular cables for a psu from Corsair, and if they will work with any psu? I have a 1000 watt (overkill) EVGA psu and would love to get custom cables to add more jazz to the build.
> Oh, and how did you do all of your fans? Did you link them to the back PWM controller, or did you get extenders so it could reach the PWM?


velcro on the inside and a little bit of tubing on the outside







spacing is perfect for a ghettomounted 120 mm formfactor rad


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hhlragnarok*
> 
> Are all the 2-pin water temp sensors universal so they can be correctly read through most of the fan controller panel?


Yes, AFAIK all 2-pin temp sensors, for air or water (at least all of the ones you'll find from computer-related retailers) are 10KOhm @ 25C sensors which are standardized/compatible with temp sensor inputs on fan controllers or motherboards. For example, so far I've used Monsoon, Phobya, and most recently Aquacomputer water temp sensors (plug and in-line) interchangeably.


----------



## simsim44

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *simsim44*
> 
> Has anybody tried to mount this here, I can not afford another 600 bucks right now so the mobo and GPU blocks and the ridged tube will wait I tried to mount it on the side like I've seen but the vid cards is making it way to tight.
> 
> 
> there is not enough room for the tubes/fittings to get it mounted here
> 
> 
> 
> I think once the GPU blocks are on there will be enough room, I did modify the reservoir mount then I trimmed the plastic cover to match it came out nice.
> 
> [/quote
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ]
> 
> That back position below the rear fan is a good spot no doubt. Have thought about it too but in my case the Ek reservoir fits with still space on the reservoir bracket despite the two 10.5" cards in sli there. What tube is that one photon?
Click to expand...





YES photon,


----------



## owcraftsman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *simsim44*
> 
> Has anybody tried to mount this here, I can not afford another 600 bucks right now so the mobo and GPU blocks and the ridged tube will wait I tried to mount it on the side like I've seen but the vid cards is making it way to tight.
> 
> 
> there is not enough room for the tubes/fittings to get it mounted here
> 
> 
> 
> I think once the GPU blocks are on there will be enough room, I did modify the reservoir mount then I trimmed the plastic cover to match it came out nice.
> 
> [/quote
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ]
> 
> That back position below the rear fan is a good spot no doubt. Have thought about it too but in my case the Ek reservoir fits with still space on the reservoir bracket despite the two 10.5" cards in sli there. What tube is that one photon?
Click to expand...

No doubt a tight fit but just enough room for my bitspower setup. If I had it to do over again I think the Photon would have worked better because of the round base/pump top and inlet/outlet config and mounting system. Note with the bitspower I have to use inlet/outlet on opposite sides of pump top because the one side that has both inlet outlet are to close together to be functional. (shame on bitspower) This means the way it's orientated now is the only way it will work for me. Also note the legs it stands on are as tight to the case as I can get which is why the fit is so tight. With the Photon's integrated bracket there is more room available to move it over within the case see last pic, I know it hard to see but it's approx 22mm from the bitspower pump top to inside case. So if properly mounted the tight fit could easily go away. It may mean you would not be able to use the pre configured mounting holes on the back panel but they don't look right for the XSPC Photon anyway so attaching would require a mod no matter what. BTW the 380mm over all height of this pump/res combo w/anti vibration pads is accommodated easily by move rear 140 up and actually has 24mm from res top to bottom rear fan when the rear fan is at it's highest point.


----------



## simsim44

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *owcraftsman*






I originally ordered a bay res, but they sent me this by mistake, so I got lucky I think, but I am not digging how tight it is astatically, I have the top 140 all the way up, and the bottom had to be switch out with a 120 because the 140 was about 3 or 4mm too tall, the mounting hole don't line up with anything in the case even if there was nothing in the case. so a mod will be inevitable. Will have to make 2 hole, 2 line up with a vent hole on top and one reservoir mount on the bottom., There are two inlets on the pump, I intended to use them both, however the one is touching the graphics card, in order to keep the outlet as free of restriction as possible and the side panel to be installed. this is it's only orientation.


----------



## owcraftsman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *simsim44*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *owcraftsman*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I originally ordered a bay res, but they sent me this by mistake, so I got lucky I think, but I am not digging how tight it is astatically, I have the top 140 all the way up, and the bottom had to be switch out with a 120 because the 140 was about 3 or 4mm too tall, the mounting hole don't line up with anything in the case even if there was nothing in the case. so a mod will be inevitable. Will have to make 2 hole, 2 line up with a vent hole on top and one reservoir mount on the bottom., There are two inlets on the pump, I intended to use them both, however the one is touching the graphics card, in order to keep the outlet as free of restriction as possible and the side panel to be installed. this is it's only orientation.
Click to expand...

Unfortunately I stand corrected. Upon closer evaluation the Proton could be problematic given the tight space.



If the illustration above is accurate this would point the outlet towards the side panel glass when mounted on the rear panel which could be problematic based on what fitting is used. Leads me to believe it could be just as tight in the end as the bitspower if it works at all. I doubt a compression fitting could be used as there would not be enough room to bend the tubing flexible or rigid away from the glass and it's questionable if a 90 degree fitting would work as well given the direct flow you desire and or how your loop needs to be. For me the tube touches the in/out ports portion of the EK block any further out than it is right now would prevent the tube from being 90 degree vertical so I got lucky there. If the Photon can be tighter to the rear panel than my setup allows that would give you 22mm or more additional space to move it towards the motherboard which may well make it work even with the outlet as it orientated. I hope that makes sense as I described it.


----------



## simsim44

It makes sense, and now that you said that I had to go and double check the clearance and it will be tight supper tight but I think it'll fly. I'll get to be sure later today when the rest of the fittings show up. I think that it maybe better to go with the ridged tubing the clearances would be greater due to the fact the fittings for the hard tube are smaller. Unless of course I get some more 90 degree fittings, although like you stated that may not even work. it's a trail and error thing at this point, a work in progress. thanks for the input.


----------



## htension

Hello guys!!

I'm with Enthoo Primo since December, and here are the pictures of my RIG:











The entire build log is here:

http://adrenaline.uol.com.br/forum/gabinetes-e-case-mod/501448-projeto-phanteks-enthoo-primo.html

It's a brazilian forum, so, the language is in brazilian portuguese (for those who want to use google translator).

Hope you enjoy.

Regards.


----------



## Kimir

Good looking rig you've got there!


----------



## Gabrielzm

[


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



quote name="htension" url="/t/1418637/phanteks-enthoo-primo-owners-club/2870#post_21730998"]Hello guys!!

I'm with Enthoo Primo since December, and here are the pictures of my RIG:











The entire build log is here:

http://adrenaline.uol.com.br/forum/gabinetes-e-case-mod/501448-projeto-phanteks-enthoo-primo.html

It's a brazilian forum, so, the language is in brazilian portuguese (for those who want to use google translator).

Hope you enjoy.

Regards.[/quote]



Yep, nice rig Mate.

Parabens cara, ficou bonitão,

Abraço


----------



## simsim44

Truely a sweet looking setup. You took a lot of photos.


----------



## Jared485

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *htension*
> 
> Hello guys!!
> 
> I'm with Enthoo Primo since December, and here are the pictures of my RIG:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The entire build log is here:
> 
> http://adrenaline.uol.com.br/forum/gabinetes-e-case-mod/501448-projeto-phanteks-enthoo-primo.html
> 
> It's a brazilian forum, so, the language is in brazilian portuguese (for those who want to use google translator).
> 
> Hope you enjoy.
> 
> Regards.


Thats a very nice build Extrmely similar to what ive got planned to mine, same fans, same color scheme, same cable extensions, same tubing smaller rad on bottom. But this gives me good insight to what my build might look likt. Thank you!


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *htension*
> 
> Hello guys!!
> 
> I'm with Enthoo Primo since December, and here are the pictures of my RIG:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The entire build log is here:
> 
> http://adrenaline.uol.com.br/forum/gabinetes-e-case-mod/501448-projeto-phanteks-enthoo-primo.html
> 
> It's a brazilian forum, so, the language is in brazilian portuguese (for those who want to use google translator).
> 
> 
> 
> Hope you enjoy.
> 
> Regards.


Beautiful build
Now clean up our base so it looks like part of the case








30mm castors


40mm castors


----------



## owcraftsman

Yep sweet rig htension


----------



## htension

Thank you guys!!


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Beautiful build
> Now clean up our base so it looks like part of the case
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 30mm castors
> 
> 
> 40mm castors


Ha that is really nice Doyll. I got a similar (but wood) but is not ventilated like that. You should made those and sell it for us members of the club


----------



## Kimir

I'll have to make myself one if I want to use the bottom as intake.


----------



## doyll

It is made of wood. 7 ply solid birch void-free 9mm plywood.
I have built more bases for cases over the years than I can count.. not all for my own either.







.
Being a custom woodworker does have it's advantages.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> It is made of wood. 7 ply solid birch void-free 9mm plywood. Being a custom woodworker does have it's advantages.


I guess I have to carve out then the hole in the middle. My piece is one heavy board with the wheels below....



that is my old case/system BTW


----------



## jameyscott

Okay guys, I'm considering replacing my corsair 540 with this case to gain more rad space instead of modding my 540 extensively. I currently own a ut60 360 and 240, and definitely want to reuse them. What would be the best set up with these rads to gain more rads? I was thinking the ut60 360 on the bottom and ut60 240 on the front. Is the 240 too thick to also use another 240 in the side? Drive cages aren't an issue ill just get a bay adapter to have hdd space. From what I read in the op I'll be able to fit a ut60 480 in the top. I know a 480 would be enough for anadditional 780 classy, but what is the fun in "good enough?"







I'm on mobile otherwise I'd use the amazing search thread function to find a similar question, but I figured the good people of this thread would be more than willing to help me out.


----------



## Jared485

My case was suppose to be ehre today but was delayed because of the snow storm!! East coast here... Im picking up tmrw at a pickup station.. that way i know ill have it by the time in get out of class!!


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jameyscott*
> 
> Okay guys, I'm considering replacing my corsair 540 with this case to gain more rad space instead of modding my 540 extensively. I currently own a ut60 360 and 240, and definitely want to reuse them. What would be the best set up with these rads to gain more rads? I was thinking the ut60 360 on the bottom and ut60 240 on the front. Is the 240 too thick to also use another 240 in the side? Drive cages aren't an issue ill just get a bay adapter to have hdd space. From what I read in the op I'll be able to fit a ut60 480 in the top. I know a 480 would be enough for anadditional 780 classy, but what is the fun in "good enough?"
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm on mobile otherwise I'd use the amazing search thread function to find a similar question, but I figured the good people of this thread would be more than willing to help me out.


Uhmmmmm might be a tight fit in front x side. I got a ST30 there (both side and front) in push pull and they are almost touching each other. Mind you that they are using a shroud (10mm which screw it in should be like 5-7 mm). So.... 30mm+25+5=60 mm (perhaps 62 mm). A ST30 on the side and a UT60 in front (without push pull) perhaps will fit.. You can check some pictures in my build log since you can see there the two rads installed and how close they are.

I would go with a 420 XT45 on top mate. Several advantages in doing that (check jacktaylor post a few pages back and my reply to it).


----------



## jameyscott

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Uhmmmmm might be a tight fit in front x side. I got a ST30 there (both side and front) in push pull and they are almost touching each other. Mind you that they are using a shroud (10mm which screw it in should be like 5-7 mm). So.... 30mm+25+5=60 mm (perhaps 62 mm). A ST30 on the side and a UT60 in front (without push pull) perhaps will fit.. You can check some pictures in my build log since you can see there the two rads installed and how close they are.
> 
> I would go with a 420 XT45 on top mate. Several advantages in doing that (check jacktaylor post a few pages back and my reply to it).


Thanks for your reply! I'll definitely look at that but I'm pretty dead set on a 480. I'd prefer to keep all the fans gt ap 15s, because I love their sound signature even at 100%.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jameyscott*
> 
> Thanks for your reply! I'll definitely look at that but I'm pretty dead set on a 480. I'd prefer to keep all the fans gt ap 15s, because I love their sound signature even at 100%.


My same thinking when I first order my parts...If you notice my current build it is a xt 45 480 on top with ap15 in push/pull....But believe or not I will switch to the xt45 420 to have a nice easy fill port without cutting holes in the top case and to have a little bit more space on the top bays.


----------



## jameyscott

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> My same thinking when I first order my parts...If you notice my current build it is a xt 45 480 on top with ap15 in push/pull....But believe or not I will switch to the xt45 420 to have a nice easy fill port without cutting holes in the top case and to have a little bit more space on the top bays.


You could always sell me your 480 and ap-15s.









As soon as I'm not on dreadful mobile ill look at your build log, unless you wouldn't mind linking it to me.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jameyscott*
> 
> You could always sell me your 480 and ap-15s.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As soon as I'm not on dreadful mobile ill look at your build log, unless you wouldn't mind linking it to me.


Oh it is on my signature:

http://www.overclock.net/t/1458261/enthoo-primo-black-and-red-liquid-cooling


----------



## simsim44

Finally got coolant in mine, it's doing the leak down test as we speak, hopefully there won't be any puddles when I get up. I'll post picks tomorrow.


----------



## jameyscott

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Oh it is on my signature:
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1458261/enthoo-primo-black-and-red-liquid-cooling


Ahh, the glory of no longer being on mobile.









I'll make sure and read up on this thread a bit more. I'm almost 95% sure that I'm just going to switch to this case. I don't mind case mods, but the thought of not having my system up and running for awhile or rushing to get it done doesn't sound appealing. This case seems like it would allow me to add enough cooling capabilities that I wouldn't need to mod it, or at least only have to do slight modifications to accommodate what I want. It's definitely a sick case.


----------



## grifftech

Anyone done a full acrylic side panel? I am thinking about it and was wondering how difficult it might be to do


----------



## OutlawII

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *grifftech*
> 
> Anyone done a full acrylic side panel? I am thinking about it and was wondering how difficult it might be to do


Not that i've seen,but i was thinking about putting in a clear panel instead of the smoked one


----------



## simsim44

somebody else has a blemish in there side panel window, do Phanteks offer a clear window option? For mine
there are areas where the mold or material moved during the cooling stage, or so that's what I think. I think the word is iridescent.


----------



## grifftech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *simsim44*
> 
> somebody else has a blemish in there side panel window, do Phanteks offer a clear window option? For mine
> there are areas where the mold or material moved during the cooling stage, or so that's what I think. I think the word is iridescent.


It's not so much blemishes as it shows shadows big time from my lighting features in the case. So it makes it look like the inside of the pane has condensation on it where there isn't a shadow


----------



## randoman

I've been admiring all the awesome EP's and thought it was about time I shared my project. For now, I have used rads I had to hand but within a few months I'll have saved enough, to buy the right ones to fit perfect. Also, if I get brave I'm thinking of doing a reverse ATX, the only way I can have my desk means the windowed side is against the wall.

http://s1210.photobucket.com/user/stungy1/media/20140120_153618_zpsfc943f59.jpg.html

http://s1210.photobucket.com/user/stungy1/media/20140120_153813_zpsf1eb6eb2.jpg.html

http://s1210.photobucket.com/user/stungy1/media/20140120_153950_zps3822cfca.jpg.html

http://s1210.photobucket.com/user/stungy1/media/20140120_154013_zps019175c7.jpg.html

http://s1210.photobucket.com/user/stungy1/media/20140120_153431_zps283627b9.jpg.html


----------



## simsim44

I like that well done. is that plastic or metal for the drive cage bay


----------



## paulyoung

Cheers mate, it's 2mm ally, with good old Di-Noc. I'm planning on mounting a couple of ssd's on the bottom section with the cables coming from above, through the side radiator plate grommets. For some reason I'm logged into 2 accounts.


----------



## cgull

Some nice builds here.
Gonna trawl thru rest of the thread, but so far this case looks the goods.. I want one


----------



## grifftech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cgull*
> 
> Some nice builds here.
> Gonna trawl thru rest of the thread, but so far this case looks the goods.. I want one


The case is PHENOMENAL to work with and absolutely gorgeous in person! f you are even thinking of buying a case, this is the one to go with. I am trying to find excuses to put more radiators and bling in it since I still have room to work with


----------



## doyll

Enthoo Primo is a great case. And if you want something a little smaller the new Enthoo Luxe looks to be another winner.


----------



## jameyscott

I want bigger!


----------



## simsim44

This is done and it just isn't doing it for me. Suggestions?


----------



## Jared485

liquid cool the cards


----------



## grifftech

Couple pictures of my new setup. Granted this is my first ever loop so be nice







And yes those are the compression part of the Monsoon fitting as anti-kink devices on the VRM to Motherboard connection







The radius was just to tight and the tube started to kink and the compression fitting fits so snuggly on the tube I thought, "hmm this would be perfect to stop the kink and it stays in my theme and no ugly anti-kink wire"

I know it is overkill, but I am thinking about getting a single slim 140mm rad to mount in the back for the VRM cooling block, I know waste, but hey I got the room









Also I need to get some new single sleeved PCI-E cables for the GPU and down the road I will get Lutro0 to make me a 24 pin mobo one. This EVGA psu is weird in that it has a 10 and 18 pin on the PSU side pig tailed into a 24 pin for the mobo. EVGA said it is some proprietary connections that they use to monitor voltages.

Think I am liking just distilled water in the loop, but I may try some orange in there and see what I think.


----------



## simsim44

Nice! I do like the look of the ROG boards.


----------



## grifftech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *simsim44*
> 
> Nice! I do like the look of the ROG boards.


Thanks


----------



## Branish

Hi guys I just bought this case and am excited about it being delivered some time this coming week. Earlier in the thread someone said that the max width radiator that will fit in the bottom without modding is 125mm thick. Does that mean that the Black Ice SR-1 480 mm radiator will not fit in the bottom without modding since it's 133mm wide? Sorry I'm just double checking before I order some radiators because sometimes what isn't officially supported can be shoe horned in without any modifications.


----------



## simsim44

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Branish*
> 
> Hi guys I just bought this case and am excited about it being delivered some time this coming week. Earlier in the thread someone said that the max width radiator that will fit in the bottom without modding is 125mm thick. Does that mean that the Black Ice SR-1 480 mm radiator will not fit in the bottom without modding since it's 133mm wide? Sorry I'm just double checking before I order some radiators because sometimes what isn't officially supported can be shoe horned in without any modifications.


yea that rad is 133mm so the answer is a big no it will not fit
125 is going to be tight, 121 is the magic number without modding, I would say that 124 would work but not sure. in my case anyway , I think you might find that each case may vary, 1 or 2 mm from case to case that's why I say 121 is the magic number


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Branish*
> 
> Hi guys I just bought this case and am excited about it being delivered some time this coming week. Earlier in the thread someone said that the max width radiator that will fit in the bottom without modding is 125mm thick. Does that mean that the Black Ice SR-1 480 mm radiator will not fit in the bottom without modding since it's 133mm wide? Sorry I'm just double checking before I order some radiators because sometimes what isn't officially supported can be shoe horned in without any modifications.


No, the problem is not thickness but width. Sr-1 is about what 54-55 mm thick? That would be just fine for bottom rad. The problem is its width. If it is above 125 mm a hard time fitting. You would have to take the structural plate with the phanteks mark from the case to fit in the bottom and even so you need to check if the rad width would fit in the case...


----------



## grifftech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Branish*
> 
> Hi guys I just bought this case and am excited about it being delivered some time this coming week. Earlier in the thread someone said that the max width radiator that will fit in the bottom without modding is 125mm thick. Does that mean that the Black Ice SR-1 480 mm radiator will not fit in the bottom without modding since it's 133mm wide? Sorry I'm just double checking before I order some radiators because sometimes what isn't officially supported can be shoe horned in without any modifications.


You would need to remove the side panel that has the Phanteks logo on it and then you would have a little over 139.7mm. But if oyu leave that side panel in you can only fit 124mm in there. My Alphacool NeXXos UT60 is nice and snug


----------



## grifftech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *simsim44*
> 
> yea that rad is 133mm so the answer is a big no it will not fit
> 125 is going to be tight, 121 is the magic number without modding, I would say that 124 would work but not sure. in my case anyway , I think you might find that each case may vary, 1 or 2 mm from case to case that's why I say 121 is the magic number


124mm works, my AC UT60 fits nice and snug in there


----------



## simsim44

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *grifftech*
> 
> 124mm works, my AC UT60 fits nice and snug in there


How wide is your XT45?


----------



## grifftech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *simsim44*
> 
> How wide is your XT45?


its 124mm wide also


----------



## grifftech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Branish*
> 
> Hi guys I just bought this case and am excited about it being delivered some time this coming week. Earlier in the thread someone said that the max width radiator that will fit in the bottom without modding is 125mm thick. Does that mean that the Black Ice SR-1 480 mm radiator will not fit in the bottom without modding since it's 133mm wide? Sorry I'm just double checking before I order some radiators because sometimes what isn't officially supported can be shoe horned in without any modifications.


Here is a picture of the structure plate with my triple 120 UT60 in there, you can see how snug it is.


----------



## simsim44

can you say shoe horn. lol did you take the grommet out on the PSU cover


----------



## Gabrielzm

Snug it is... But yeah, I think UT60 480 mm would fit bottom although you will have to let go the bottom hard drive cages.


----------



## Branish

Wow thanks for the quick responses guys! I was hoping to try out the Hardware Labs radiators but I guess I'll throw some Alphacools in there instead. I could pull out the jigsaw like I did my 600T and cut the panel in half but I want to keep this case as stock as possible and I like the Phanteks logo in the window. The other thing I'm worried about is having to cut the bottom of the PSU cover out to fit the rad if the 120mm fan holes don't line up. Alphacool UT60 it is then. I don't mind pulling out the bottom HDD cage since I was planning on doing that anyway.

Thanks again guys. I can't wait to build inside this case. @Grifftech, great photo. That's just the picture I was looking for.


----------



## grifftech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Snug it is... But yeah, I think UT60 480 mm would fit bottom although you will have to let go the bottom hard drive cages.


I had to take out the bottom cage for the UT60 360mm, so yeah the 480mm for sure


----------



## grifftech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Branish*
> 
> Wow thanks for the quick responses guys! I was hoping to try out the Hardware Labs radiators but I guess I'll throw some Alphacools in there instead. I could pull out the jigsaw like I did my 600T and cut the panel in half but I want to keep this case as stock as possible and I like the Phanteks logo in the window. The other thing I'm worried about is having to cut the bottom of the PSU cover out to fit the rad if the 120mm fan holes don't line up. Alphacool UT60 it is then. I don't mind pulling out the bottom HDD cage since I was planning on doing that anyway.
> 
> Thanks again guys. I can't wait to build inside this case. @Grifftech, great photo. That's just the picture I was looking for.


No, problem. I love the Alphacools. I was originally looking at XSPC rads but the Alphacools have the extra ports and it makes it great for a drain for the loop off my bottom rad and to bleed air from the top rad when I fill it


----------



## grifftech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Branish*
> 
> Wow thanks for the quick responses guys! I was hoping to try out the Hardware Labs radiators but I guess I'll throw some Alphacools in there instead. I could pull out the jigsaw like I did my 600T and cut the panel in half but I want to keep this case as stock as possible and I like the Phanteks logo in the window. The other thing I'm worried about is having to cut the bottom of the PSU cover out to fit the rad if the 120mm fan holes don't line up. Alphacool UT60 it is then. I don't mind pulling out the bottom HDD cage since I was planning on doing that anyway.
> 
> Thanks again guys. I can't wait to build inside this case. @Grifftech, great photo. That's just the picture I was looking for.


Also if you want any more specific pics of certain areas just let me know


----------



## Branish

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *grifftech*
> 
> Also if you want any more specific pics of certain areas just let me know


Cool thanks. I'm currently using an Alphacool Monsta 360 rad in the front of my 600T but I'm thinking the white might look out of place in the black Enthoo Primo. I don't know what do you think?


----------



## jameyscott

Depends on the rest of your build tbh. This case would be sick for a black and white theme. I'm sure there have been a few of them on here.


----------



## Branish

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jameyscott*
> 
> Depends on the rest of your build tbh. This case would be sick for a black and white theme. I'm sure there have been a few of them on here.


Well I'm pretty much at this point going to be doing basically the same colour scheme as my current build which is red, white and black. I was contemplating changing to blue and black but I don't really want to be changing my Mushkin Redlines since ram has really gone up in price and they're 1866 and I have 16 gigs of it.

If I do use the Monsta, I'll pick up the white Alphacool 420 UT60.


----------



## jameyscott

Sounds like a plan.







I've decided to wait until tax returns to get this case because that coincides when I need to tear apart my rig and clean everything, so might as well save myself the trouble.

I'm going ultimate fan boy on it, too. Blue and green tubing with blue or green lighting. Just have to figure out how to cover up the red on the mobo, first. I thought about painting it, but I don't want to ruin my warranty in the process.


----------



## Branish

Yeah I know what you mean about covering the red on your mobo. The red leds on my Maximus V, as well as my red ram, are what's stopping me from changing my colour scheme. I never thought the ROG board's colour scheme would be a hindrance. This time though I'm going full acrylic.


----------



## simsim44

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Branish*
> 
> If I do use the Monsta, I'll pick up the white Alphacool 420 UT60.


Where are you going to put that? on the top I hope.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Yep. Finally you can have (loosing both hd cages) have 480 (or 420) up, 280 bottom and 2x 240 (front and side) which would be one of the largest combination of rad space in the Enthoo without going external.
> 
> Yep, I agree with Jack. I have a 480 mm xt45 top, a very slim 30mm xspc 280 mm bottom and 2x 240mm (also 30 mm OCool) front. With fans in push and pull (except the top rad with only half of it in push/pull) I got like 8 degrees C of delta under heavy prime95. Hell, even running prime95 blend test and call of duty ghost at the same time
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> gave me only 8 degrees C of delta (amb. temp of 30 C water temp around 37.5) with fans at 48% (GT AP15 and Phanteeks 140 mm). If I would build today I would go with a 420 xt45 on top (in fact I already order that to replace the 480 mm xt45. One additional advantage over the 480 mm (besides those cited by Jack) is that you have a little more room on the drive bays. From my measurements I think you could squeeze the fan controller on the top bay (to be confirmed yet when the parts arrived).


Oops, yes I forgot to mention that....The Reeven Six Eyes just fits, tho I eventually decided to put it in the 4th slot so i could

-for the time being remove the covers for slots 1-3 and easily move sensors around.
-Put a 140mm fan in slots 1-3 for the dog days of summer.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fumferknuckle*
> 
> Hello! I have a few questions about what radiators can and can't be used in the Enthoo Primo. I wish I could, but I don't have time to read all 286 pages. So, I am sorry if my questions have already been answered.
> I want to first know how big of a 480 radiator can be put in the top of the case. I want to do push/pull with a 480 in a top. So please list the biggest I should go in height while comfortably having room with push/pull.


That's been addressed int he last twp pages.....a UT60 will fit 99% of the time..... however, on a good number of boards, the extra 15mm will make some things a bit "inconvenient"

1. If ya look at the Modzoo review, they swapped out the 60 for a 45mm , one reason being access to the 8 pin EPS cable .... I had the same issue on the Asus M6F.
2. It completely blocked access to the MPCIE combo card thingie
3. Made the access to the MoBo Water Block port a bit tight
4. Made access to CPU fan headers a bit tight
5. Blocked view of the MoBo LCD diagnostic panel
6. Blocked access to the voltage monitoring points.

See FAQ - http://themodzoo.com/forum/index.php?/page/articles.html/_/reviews/cases/phanteks-enthoo-primo-full-tower-review-r67?pg=8

In addition, a 480 will

a. not allow you to have the ports in the front
b. not allow you to have top bleed fill ports w/ drilling out the case
c. render the top drive bay unusable
d. not allow you to use the excellent Phanteks fans that come with the case for Rad cooling

On the other hand, a 420 will allow all of those things and it will provide more cooling capacity than a 480.

XT45-480 = 245 watts in push and 296 watts in push / pull @ 1250 rpm
UT60-480 = 251 watts in push and 303 watts in push / pull @ 1250 rpm

XT45-420 = 250 watts in push and 302 watts in push / pull @ 1250 rpm
UT60-420 = 256 watts in push and 309 watts in push / pull @ 1250 rpm

So here's an interesting comparison ..... in push / pull

The UT60-480 ($120) gives ya 303 watts in push / pull and ya gotta buy 8 fans (say $15 each) for a total cost of $240 ($0.79 per watt)
The XT45-420 ($85) gives ya 302 watts in push / pull and ya only gotta buy 6 fans (say $15 each) for a total cost of $175 ($0.58 per watt)

So for the same level of cooling:

-Ya save $65 (27% per watt)
-Ya eliminate potential issues 1. thru 6. if they apply to you
-Ya eliminate problems a. thru d.

Quote:


> My second question is, can you put a 480 rad in the bottom? I do not want to disassemble or modify the metal piece(s) that hide the hard drive and expansion bays. If possible, I would want to fit a http://www.frozencpu.com/products/16237/ex-rad-412/Alphacool_NexXxoS_Monsta_Quad_120mm_Radiator_-_80mm_Thick.html?tl=g30c95s570#blank in the bottom and then put a 280 or something at the top for better piece of mind. Is it possible to do this? If modding is required, what kind of modding would I have to do. I wouldn't mind drilling an extra hole or whatever, but I want to keep the HDD cage metal hiding piece intact.


A Monsta fits....watch Jesse and Bill's video on Modzoo. Though s 280 + 420 is just push more than enough for twin SLI and twin CF (well maybe not 290x/290) and a Haswell at 4.6GHz. As you'll note above, extra thickness does very, very little .... your delta T will be so low that the 21C air entering even a 30mm is just about at the coolant temperature by the time it exits......extra depth when the air is already close to 30C and the water's at 31C doesn't really do much.

At 1250 rpm .....

ST30-480 - 291
XT45-480 - 296 (50% more rad for +1.7% performance increase)
UT60-480 - 303 (33% more rad for +2.4% performance increase)
Monsta-480 - 318 (43% more rad for +4.9% performance increase)

Quote:


> And my third and final question is, what are my limits for a 240mm rad, in push/pull, in the front of the case. I would like to fit a thick rad, but also keep the top hard drive cage installed. Would it be possible to have that 480 rad in the bottom and the 240 in the front, or would I have to mount the 240 to the side (which isn't a problem).
> I just need to know these things so I can plan out my loop and figure out how many fans needed. I would rather have push/pull going that way I could run all the fans at lower rpm. But if it is unrealistic in some situations it's not a big deal.
> Thanks for any and all help![


Look at the 1st post and Jesse's FAQ on Modzoo, but as I recall no 240 in the front if you have a 480. And also no HD cages with a Rad and fans on the side mount. Also see page 22 on the manual.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *resetg*
> 
> Thanks for all that amazing info Jack!
> 
> But I guess from the get-go my thoughts of this build were completely overkill. So I kinda kept with the theme! I've always been on the side of to-much is better than not enough! But with the idea of complete overkill on the rads was to attempt to run lower fan speeds in an attempt to keep the system from sounding like a turbo diesel taking off!
> 
> Part of the idea of turning the upper radiator around was also to keep the actual loop itself smaller. Where it would be the entire distance of the case to get to the rad to about 6-7 inches at most. I really like that idea of the drain much better than cutting through the rear of the case!
> 
> But in my excitement I sorta jumped the gun and already bought the radiators.....part of the reason I ordered before thinking was all the vids I've seen showed 480's up top in push/pull like it was nothing (demo videos on newegg).
> 
> I can't get pics to load so here's a direct link:
> http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d31/resetg/20140205_150545-1.jpg


Nothing wrong with overkill..... tho I'm running at a dead silent 850 rpm. Didn't even need push / pull ..... *but now that the Phanteks PCBs are shipping* (just opened box) .... I just might do some overkill myself









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fumferknuckle*
> 
> As a side note, does anyone know if I can get white and red (or only red or only white) modular cables for a psu from Corsair, and if they will work with any psu? I have a 1000 watt (overkill) EVGA psu and would love to get custom cables to add more jazz to the build.
> Oh, and how did you do all of your fans? Did you link them to the back PWM controller, or did you get extenders so it could reach the PWM?


1. FrozenCPU.com for the custom cables but they have sets pre-made in red and white for Corsair ..... can also have Lutro do them.... tho FCPU sells Lutro stuff, you might have to go direct for Lutro custom cables.

http://www.frozencpu.com/cat/l3/g2/c413/s1599/list/p1/Cables-PSU_Cables-PSU_Cable_Sets-Page1.html

2. I have:

(5 soon to be 10) )Rad fans on one PCB
(5 soon to be 6) case Fans on the other PCB

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hhlragnarok*
> 
> Are all the 2-pin water temp sensors universal so they can be correctly read through most of the fan controller panel?


I currently have 8 fans on the hub as my right side panel is off waiting for me to finish sleeving......using Fan Xpert to control them all and it works beautifully .... couldn't ask for more.

My 2nd PCB just arrived and I will be installing it right after I finish this message.

As for the sensors, I'm using the Reeven Six Eyes fan controller but I'm nit using it for fan control. Fits nicely behind the door with buttons in out position but should you have issues they "press in" to allow doors with less clearance to close. Ya might think "what a waste" not to use the thing to control speeds but FanXpert does it better than I could want ..... and *no I am not using PWM control*, just straight voltage control of CHA_1 and CHA_2 ...... CHA_3 will be for the 3rd PCB ..... as I eventually plan on

1. PCB-1 = (6 Fans) 3 x Phanteks SP140_BK_LED + 3 x Phanteks SP140_BK
2. PCB-1 = (4 Fans) 4 x Phanteks SP140_BK
3. PCB-1 = (6 Fans) 6 x Phanteks SP140_BK

So the 2 pin sensors go to the Controller and look like this:

Top Rad In | Bottom Rad Out
Bot Rad In | Bottom Rad Out
Ambient Air In | Case Air Out

25.3 - - - - 25.4 - - - - 19.9
25.1 - - - - 25.0 - - - - 23.2

Liked the way they stacked .... makes it easy to visualize w/ each column being for one aspect.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Now clean up our base so it looks like part of the case


Well now it's time to start asking Phanteks about suggestions mounting case feet .... I'd do your caster mount but not comfy with casters for a desktop rig.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jameyscott*
> 
> Thanks for your reply! I'll definitely look at that but I'm pretty dead set on a 480. I'd prefer to keep all the fans gt ap 15s, because I love their sound signature even at 100%.


I think given the chance ya might prefer the Phanteks ..... 0 sound signature







....and to my mind, as I listed above, ya lose so much flexibility with the 480

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Branish*
> 
> Hi guys I just bought this case and am excited about it being delivered some time this coming week. Earlier in the thread someone said that the max width radiator that will fit in the bottom without modding is 125mm thick. Does that mean that the Black Ice SR-1 480 mm radiator will not fit in the bottom without modding since it's 133mm wide? Sorry I'm just double checking before I order some radiators because sometimes what isn't officially supported can be shoe horned in without any modifications.


Yes.... not a matter of official support.... just the proverbial 5 pounds in 2 pound bag analogy. The distance between the PSU shroud and the panel with the PHANTEKS name on it is 125mm ..... Unless it's equipped with the technology that makes all of Dr. Who's stuff fit in his Tardis or what makes the stuff in wimmen's purses actually fit inside their purses, 133mm just ain't gonna fit in a 125mm space.









Watch Jesse's video on the Primo .... I think it was the Black Ice they used .... well should say "tried to use" and it didn't fit .

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *simsim44*
> 
> yea that rad is 133mm so the answer is a big no it will not fit
> 125 is going to be tight, 121 is the magic number without modding, I would say that 124 would work but not sure. in my case anyway , I think you might find that each case may vary, 1 or 2 mm from case to case that's why I say 121 is the magic number


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Snug it is... But yeah, I think UT60 480 mm would fit bottom although you will have to let go the bottom hard drive cages.


This fits, no modding ....so does the Monsta

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/14987/ex-rad-341/Alphacool_NexXxoS_UT60_Full_Copper_Quad_120mm_Radiator.html
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/16237/ex-rad-412/Alphacool_NexXxoS_Monsta_Quad_120mm_Radiator_-_80mm_Thick.html?tl=c95s667b42
Quote:


> Dimensions (LxWxH): 522 x 124 x 60mm (80mm on the Monsta)


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *simsim44*
> 
> can you say shoe horn. lol did you take the grommet out on the PSU cover


I took it out to install..... put it back in when i was done.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Branish*
> 
> Wow thanks for the quick responses guys! I was hoping to try out the Hardware Labs radiators but I guess I'll throw some Alphacools in there instead. I could pull out the jigsaw like I did my 600T and cut the panel in half but I want to keep this case as stock as possible and I like the Phanteks logo in the window. The other thing I'm worried about is having to cut the bottom of the PSU cover out to fit the rad if the 120mm fan holes don't line up. Alphacool UT60 it is then. I don't mind pulling out the bottom HDD cage since I was planning on doing that anyway.
> 
> Thanks again guys. I can't wait to build inside this case. @Grifftech, great photo. That's just the picture I was looking for.


Look at the numbers ..... i think you will be happy with the AC's. The UT60 has about a 4% edge over the HL, has screw protectors, all copper, 7 ports

http://martinsliquidlab.org/2012/04/12/alphacool-nexxxos-ut60-360-radiator/4/

That was also my concern..... If ya worried about what ya gotta mod / remove and keeping as stock as possible ..... note that a 420 + 280 w/ 5 fans in push only can maintain two 780s in SLI w/ 25+% OC and 4770k at 4.6 at 8.4C delta T ..... gets up to about 9.8C with filters in and w/o raising the case off the desk...... hits 12.2C with fans at 850 max and dead silence .... and this is under stress testing .... about 2/3 of that while gaming and fans are down at 450 rpm-ish. The reason I mention is that a 420 + 280 allows for no mods, even all HD cages can remain in place......drain, fill and bleed ports w/o any case mods.....see other advantages above

Drain port access via quick-disconnect


Drain port fittings


Top port access for fill / bleed ports ... used 30mm extensions and stop plugs (12" acrylic tube riser and mini-valve)


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Branish*
> 
> Cool thanks. I'm currently using an Alphacool Monsta 360 rad in the front of my 600T but I'm thinking the white might look out of place in the black Enthoo Primo. I don't know what do you think?


I had everything in but the Res and decided to go with white one to break up all that black.... was gad I did.

Here's how it looks



I had considered the white but was sitting on the fence for a while..... cost difference is significant tho and the one complaint I have about the ACs is the finish..... so i woulda painted the shrouds myself after masking off the fins.


----------



## Branish

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *simsim44*
> 
> Where are you going to put that? on the top I hope.


The 420 is going in the roof. In Bill and Jesse's video it seems to fit rather nicely.


----------



## Branish

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> Yes.... not a matter of official support.... just the proverbial 5 pounds in 2 pound bag analogy. The distance between the PSU shroud and the panel with the PHANTEKS name on it is 125mm ..... Unless it's equipped with the technology that makes all of Dr. Who's stuff fit in his Tardis or what makes the stuff in wimmen's purses actually fit inside their purses, 133mm just ain't gonna fit in a 125mm space.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Watch Jesse's video on the Primo .... I think it was the Black Ice they used .... well should say "tried to use" and it didn't fit .


Thanks for the reply. In Bill and Jesse's video it was the 280mm Black Ice they tried to fit. None of the reviews said anything about the 480 SR-1. I've decided to put the white UT60 420mm in the ceiling since it will match the white Monsta 360mm I've been using for about a year now that I'll mount on the floor. I'll have the case this week so I'll soon be able to start the planning process. With that configuration I've been able to shave off about $300 off of my original plan since I won't have to buy 2 new rads and a bunch of fans. I should have it up and running in about a month's time.


----------



## Ouro

I was hoping I could at least pre-order the white version or the Luxe version by now









Everyday I spend more and more time looking at the NZXT cases ~_~


----------



## xCloudyHorizon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ouro*
> 
> I was hoping I could at least pre-order the white version or the Luxe version by now
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Everyday I spend more and more time looking at the NZXT cases ~_~


You can pre-order the white version if you're in the UK, but for whatever reason I can't find a place to pre-order it in the US.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Well, the Enthoo Primo made its debut from Phanteks in June at Computex Tapei 2013 and initially the Phanteks rep at the show was saying in Youtube videos that the case should be ready for a late July / early August release, then it was delayed. When pre-ordering from Phanteks finally began the cases were supposed to start shipping in late Sept, but that was delayed again. Besides a few lucky early review samples like Bill and Jesse got their hands on, the first of us to get our Enthoo Primos was around the middle of Oct 2013. It took them a little over 4 months from the time they started showing the case off to the time they made them available.

Now, Phanteks has announced a white version of the Enthoo Primo and two smaller mini-me models in January at CES 2014, and here it is a month later and still no word on when they might be available for sale.

Not sure if the time frame on the roll-out of Enthoo Primo holds any bearing towards how long it might take for the newest announced Phanteks toys to start showing up, but thought it was worth mentioning. Might not want to hold your breath waiting.


----------



## hhlragnarok

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Well, the Enthoo Primo made its debut from Phanteks in June at Computex Tapei 2013 and initially the Phanteks rep at the show was saying in Youtube videos that the case should be ready for a late July / early August release, then it was delayed. When pre-ordering from Phanteks finally began the cases were supposed to start shipping in late Sept, but that was delayed again. Besides a few lucky early review samples like Bill and Jesse got their hands on, the first of us to get our Enthoo Primos was around the middle of Oct 2013. It took them a little over 4 months from the time they started showing the case off to the time they made them available.
> 
> Now, Phanteks has announced a white version of the Enthoo Primo and two smaller mini-me models in January at CES 2014, and here it is a month later and still no word on when they might be available for sale.
> 
> Not sure if the time frame on the roll-out of Enthoo Primo holds any bearing towards how long it might take for the newest announced Phanteks toys to start showing up, but thought it was worth mentioning. Might not want to hold your breath waiting.


I was expecting the white one until last week...ended up ordering the black one ......


----------



## Kimir

Pre ordered the white one, no date announced but expecting it at the end of the month, fingers crossed.


----------



## CoopsTHC

Got my Enthoo Primo last week and lined it with some white carbon vinyl and quickly chucked my system in after taking it out of my old case. Waiting on bottom rad as well as EK HD tubing.

P.S: I have a UT60 420 rad in the top and can have it in push pull without an issue, not got fans in yet but have checked that they will fit.


----------



## doyll

White vinyl looks good.


----------



## Ouro

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Well, the Enthoo Primo made its debut from Phanteks in June at Computex Tapei 2013 and initially the Phanteks rep at the show was saying in Youtube videos that the case should be ready for a late July / early August release, then it was delayed. When pre-ordering from Phanteks finally began the cases were supposed to start shipping in late Sept, but that was delayed again. Besides a few lucky early review samples like Bill and Jesse got their hands on, the first of us to get our Enthoo Primos was around the middle of Oct 2013. It took them a little over 4 months from the time they started showing the case off to the time they made them available.
> 
> Now, Phanteks has announced a white version of the Enthoo Primo and two smaller mini-me models in January at CES 2014, and here it is a month later and still no word on when they might be available for sale.
> 
> Not sure if the time frame on the roll-out of Enthoo Primo holds any bearing towards how long it might take for the newest announced Phanteks toys to start showing up, but thought it was worth mentioning. Might not want to hold your breath waiting.


They were mentioned for sale in March in the Hardware Canucks video which is why I'm kinda antsy about not being able to pre-order!


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ouro*
> 
> I was hoping I could at least pre-order the white version or the Luxe version by now
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Everyday I spend more and more time looking at the NZXT cases ~_~


Can pre-order in UK for 5 March 2014 ETA
http://www.overclockers.co.uk/showproduct.php?prodid=CA-001-PT


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Yeah, overclockers.uk also let people pre-order Asus RIVBE boards for an ETA date that was more than two months before it actually was released. So did others like NZXT, and they kept moving back the availability dates over and over. Oh man were people ever upset about it (especially NZXT which charged people's cards immediately after placing the order - same thing Phanteks did last year when you pre-ordered the Enthoo Primo from them before it got delayed even further. No idea if overclockers.uk is like that). Similar happened with the Lamptron CW611 release. Site's LUV taking your money early but too often when they do they seem to just make up the ETA dates.

It may well be that they are made available around then, or it may not, but I'd take any site's pre-order availability dates with a grain of salt unless/until you get some form of confirmation that comes from Phanteks, and even then I would almost expect there to be some delay beyond that.


----------



## doyll

All too true.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

You could go ask a Phanteks rep using the chat feature on their site. That, or ask in their forums if someone hasn't already. It's been my experience that not a whole lot of such questions get a response in their forums. If Phanteks has any sort of availability dates for an upcoming product they should be able to tell you in their chat though. If they can't tell you an estimated date, then any sites that are accepting pre-orders are likely making stuff up.


----------



## Kimir

Well, one of the 2 shop in France that have it in pre order says not before february 25th, the other one doesn't give any date.
Also both shop do this:

In case of lower prices at the time of release the amount of your order will be adjusted downward.
As with any order, payment will be made at the time of product shipment.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> Well, one of the 2 shop in France that have it in pre order says not before february 25th, the other one doesn't give any date.
> Also both shop do this:
> 
> In case of lower prices at the time of release the amount of your order will be adjusted downward.
> *As with any order, payment will be made at the time of product shipment.*


That's the important part to know. Not all places do that, but they all sure should. Phanteks itself when it had pre-orders for the Enthoo Primo from their site last year was charging when the order was placed, not when it shipped.


----------



## Kimir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> That's the important part to know. Not all places do that, but they all sure should. Phanteks itself when it had pre-orders for the Enthoo Primo from their site last year was charging when the order was placed, not when it shipped.


Most do in France, not sure if it is in the law or not but all reliable shop do that.


----------



## Branish

I couldn't wait so I ordered the black one.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Branish*
> 
> The 420 is going in the roof. In Bill and Jesse's video it seems to fit rather nicely.


There's a technique in getting the 420 in .....

1. Install it before MoBo if possible..... I did mine w/ it already installed and I was afraid or dinging something.

2. With the ports in back .... put the ports end down at the bottom back of the case and the drain end up in the 5.25 bays while holding it on a 45 degree angle with top of rad tilted half facing you.

3. Start lifting the ports end and when ya get it to about the fan level (Oh yeah take rear fan out) start twisting it to level and it should go in w/o too much struglle.


----------



## xlim3y

Couple of pictures of my finished build.... Will do some more with my good camera when time allows.


----------



## Ouro

Just spoke to a representative in their chat but I didnt send myself the transcript (doh!).

From the way they told me that there are no pre-order locations yet I am going to go ahead and say that the case will not be released in March


----------



## simsim44

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xlim3y*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Couple of pictures of my finished build.... Will do some more with my good camera when time allows.


How are those coolers working. Good?


----------



## Branish

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> There's a technique in getting the 420 in .....
> 
> 1. Install it before MoBo if possible..... I did mine w/ it already installed and I was afraid or dinging something.
> 
> 2. With the ports in back .... put the ports end down at the bottom back of the case and the drain end up in the 5.25 bays while holding it on a 45 degree angle with top of rad tilted half facing you.
> 
> 3. Start lifting the ports end and when ya get it to about the fan level (Oh yeah take rear fan out) start twisting it to level and it should go in w/o too much struglle.


Great thanks for the tips. I was hoping to have the ports in the 5.25" bays but if it has to be the other way around than that's not a big deal. It's just finding the balance with the loop so that I don't have one side busier than the other. I think having the ports facing the back of the case will have better aesthetics regarding tubing routing.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ouro*
> 
> Just spoke to a representative in their chat but I didnt send myself the transcript (doh!).
> 
> From the way they told me that there are no pre-order locations yet I am going to go ahead and say that the case will not be released in March


Over on OC3D someone had asked Phanteks customer service and apparently they told him late April early May. I wanted the white one really bad but I don't regret buying the black one.


----------



## xlim3y

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *simsim44*
> 
> How are those coolers working. Good?


Fantastic, top card maxes out at around 55 and bottom card 49.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Branish*
> 
> Great thanks for the tips. I was hoping to have the ports in the 5.25" bays but if it has to be the other way around than that's not a big deal. It's just finding the balance with the loop so that I don't have one side busier than the other. I think having the ports facing the back of the case will have better aesthetics regarding tubing routing.


I laid it out in AutoCAD (See Post # 1000) and decided that would be the best routing...... at least with the pump under the top HD bay, that kinda determined everything else.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Branish*
> 
> Great thanks for the tips. I was hoping to have the ports in the 5.25" bays but if it has to be the other way around than that's not a big deal. It's just finding the balance with the loop so that I don't have one side busier than the other. I think having the ports facing the back of the case will have better aesthetics regarding tubing routing.
> Over on OC3D someone had asked Phanteks customer service and apparently they told him late April early May. I wanted the white one really bad but I don't regret buying the black one.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> I laid it out in AutoCAD (See Post # 1000) and decided that would be the best routing...... at least with the pump under the top HD bay, that kinda determined everything else.


Will be doing the same soon (45/420 mm rad on top) but I think with a 420 rad (specially a xt45) you can have the ports facing front or facing rear with no problem. Whatever is best for your loop. BTW you went with the xt45 in the end correct Jack? Can you confirm what I am saying?

cheers


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Yes....originally I planned on a UT60 but after seeing Jesse Build / Review / Pics on Modzoo, I switched to the XT...... UT60 blocked access to MPCIE Combo thingie, 8 pin EPS socket, made the CPU block piping connection rather tight, blocked the test voltage points and blocked view of the diagnostic panel and MemOK LED..... not to mention eliminated my bleed port valve on top of the res.

In the pic below, the bottom of Phanteks SP140s would be within a hair of touching the elbow on top of the res with the UT60 and would block the word the top half of the word "START" on that button to lower right of the diagnostic LED ya see that says "AO".



I have just about under 38mm clearance now w/o the push fan to the plug .... the fan is 27mm leaving just 11. The UT60 would have added 15mm leaving me 4mm short.

As far as which end.......ya could have the ports in the 5.25 bays but ....

1. I dunno if ya can push the rad all the way back with the rear fan in place with push / pull .... be close even with an XT45, def not with UT60

2. Clearing that rear fan leaves ya with ports still set pretty deep in ya 5.25 bays making access difficult.

I can see this mount tho if ya have ya pump in the 5.25" bays.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> Yes....originally I planned on a UT60 but after seeing Jesse Build / Review / Pics on Modzoo, I switched to the XT...... UT60 blocked access to MPCIE Combo thingie, 8 pin EPS socket, made the CPU block piping connection rather tight, blocked the test voltage points and blocked view of the diagnostic panel and MemOK LED..... not to mention getting the plug outta res top wuda been PITA
> 
> 
> 
> I have just about under 38mm clearance now w/o the push fan to the plug .... the fan is 27mm leaving just 11. The UT60 would have added 15mm leaving me 4mm short.
> 
> As far as which end.......ya could have the ports in the 5.25 bays but ....
> 
> 1. I dunno if ya can push the rad all the way back with the rear fan in place with push / pull .... be close even with an XT45, def not with UT60
> 
> 2. Clearing that rear fan leaves ya with ports still set pretty deep in ya 5.25 bays making access difficult.
> 
> I can see this mount tho if ya have ya pump in the 5.25" bays.


You got it... Got a dual ek to with d5s in the 5.25" bay. Still, I am not fully convinced I am doing with the ports facing front just pointing out to Branish that He might do that. Thks for chiming in.


----------



## Branish

Thanks guys you've been really helpful. I'll see how everything fits once I get the case and the new 420 rad this week. I'm still thinking of using the SR-1 rads and doing some modding to fit them in since I love the way those rads look. I have a bad habit of changing my mind at the last minute which is why I have so many spare parts lying around.

I'm thinking of using eloops on the bottom rad just 'cause they look awesome but Daniel from Singularity Computers had the problem of the fan blades hitting the radiator when mounted horizontally in his Cytotoxic build. I can't seem to really find any other information on them regarding this issue. Have any of you guys had any experience with those fans? I did notice some pages back someone using those fans on their bottom rad. I'm sorry if this is the wrong place to ask.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Branish*
> 
> Thanks guys you've been really helpful. I'll see how everything fits once I get the case and the new 420 rad this week. I'm still thinking of using the SR-1 rads and doing some modding to fit them in since I love the way those rads look. I have a bad habit of changing my mind at the last minute which is why I have so many spare parts lying around.


The only way to mod the bottom to fit a 360 or 480 SR-1 would be to remove or cut out the panel with the Phanteks logo on it. A few people have done that. Doesn't look so good imho.
Quote:


> I'm thinking of using eloops on the bottom rad just 'cause they look awesome but Daniel from Singularity Computers had the problem of the fan blades hitting the radiator when mounted horizontally in his Cytotoxic build. I can't seem to really find any other information on them regarding this issue. Have any of you guys had any experience with those fans? I did notice some pages back someone using those fans on their bottom rad. I'm sorry if this is the wrong place to ask.


I don't have eLoops to say one way or another, and some who do have them say they just don't notice it, but just as many if not more have reported their eLoops get louder / buzzing almost like the blades are hitting something when used in pull. Turns out it's NOT due to the blades actually hitting anything like some claim. They just sometimes give off a helicopter-like sound effect if the front of the fan blades (the 'pull' side) are too close to a restriction.

The manufacturer has recognized the issue and says their eLoop is not designed to be used in pull, but if you are going to use it in pull they suggest using a shroud at least 5-10 mm thick ...
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NYMD*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> last week i asked if we can use Noiseblocker e-loops as push and pull here is the offical answer:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also in the FAQ on the e-loop home page:
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> *When I install the fan "sucking" on a CPU cooler or a radiator it gets louder, why?*
> 
> This is due to aerodynamics, simply increase the distance between fan and cooler to about 5-10 mm, e.g. using a distance frame (normal PC accessories) and the noise will disappear. We suggest an inflating assembly, which is what the fan is optimized for.
> 
> http://www.blacknoise.com/en/products/it/8
> 
> Click to expand...
Click to expand...


----------



## Essenbe

I have an XSPC RX 360 in the bottom of mine. It was an extremely tight fit, but it will fit. Take out the top drive cages, place the rad where you want it and push it down between the front panel with the logo and the PSU indention. If you push enough it will fit, and won't bow out the front panel.


----------



## Branish

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> The only way to mod the bottom to fit a 360 or 480 SR-1 would be to remove or cut out the panel with the Phanteks logo on it. A few people have done that. Doesn't look so good imho.
> 
> I don't have eLoops to say one way or another, and some who do have them say they just don't notice it, but just as many if not more have reported their eLoops get louder / buzzing almost like the blades are hitting something when used in pull. Turns out it's NOT due to the blades actually hitting anything like some claim. They just sometimes give off a helicopter-like sound effect if the front of the fan blades (the 'pull' side) are too close to a restriction.
> 
> The manufacturer has recognized the issue and says their eLoop is not designed to be used in pull, but if you are going to use it in pull they suggest using a shroud at least 5-10 mm thick ...


Thanks Unicr0n. I did read about the noise and found a video of the turbulence noise people have reported but I was hoping on low RPM B12-2 eloops that that wouldn't be an issue as the noise seems to happen noticeably in the higher RPM's as Blacknoise and some others have stated. I did actually find those posts you posted so sorry if it seems like I didn't look around first. I guess I was more concerned about the blades contacting the radiator as to me that would be a more annoying sound and aside from Simgularity Computers, there's no mention of that. I'm currently running Noiseblocker PL-2's so I'll stick with those.

Regarding the SR-1's I have seen builds where the HDD/optic bay cover has been cut in two and I have to agree with you that it never seems to look that good since I was thinking of cutting it in two but your post has confirmed my thoughts about the aesthetics. I think you just saved me around $300








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Essenbe*
> 
> I have an XSPC RX 360 in the bottom of mine. It was an extremely tight fit, but it will fit. Take out the top drive cages, place the rad where you want it and push it down between the front panel with the logo and the PSU indention. If you push enough it will fit, and won't bow out the front panel.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I never realised the RX360 was that wide. Unfortunately the Black Ice rads are 6mm wider so shoe horning isn't an option


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Essenbe*
> 
> I have an XSPC RX 360 in the bottom of mine. It was an extremely tight fit, but it will fit. Take out the top drive cages, place the rad where you want it and push it down between the front panel with the logo and the PSU indention. If you push enough it will fit, and won't bow out the front panel.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Hmmm? I don't know about earlier versions but the new V3 RX360 is 130mm wide.

The space between the panel and the PSU shroud on the Enthoo Primo is 125mm. My 124mm-wide alphacool monsta is a tight enough fit it doesn't really want to go without removing the grommet(s) and even then it takes pushing down in there with both sides touching. I can't imagine shoving a 130mm-wide rad down in there without some significant bowing somewhere.

Maybe the V3 is wider than XSPC's previous RX versions?

EDIT:

Yeah, according to this from MartinsLiquidLabs, previous RX360 was 124mm wide.


----------



## Essenbe

I have one of the older versions of it, I thought it was 126mmm, but I could be wrong. But, you're right, whatever the size is, didn't want to go, but did and didn't bow anything out that I can tell. I love the case and would buy it again, but you would think Phanteks would have anticipated that and made a slight adjustment in the fit. My guess is they probably will in version 2.


----------



## smoke420

Have to say I was looking forward to getting this case. The only case I could find with a reasonable price that could fit all my gear without modding. Now after three weeks and two damaged cases I could never recommend this case to anyone. The boxes were not damaged but the cases are actually getting worse. The first one had the fan cover on the front panel broke so it wouldn't close. The second one had all the clips that hold the front panel broke and the led wire was ripped out of the connector. Not sure who to blame Phanteks, Newegg, or UPS but it doesn't matter at this point. I am not waiting another 2 weeks for a broken case.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smoke420*
> 
> Have to say I was looking forward to getting this case. The only case I could find with a reasonable price that could fit all my gear without modding. Now after three weeks and two damaged cases I could never recommend this case to anyone. The boxes were not damaged but the cases are actually getting worse. The first one had the fan cover on the front panel broke so it wouldn't close. The second one had all the clips that hold the front panel broke and the led wire was ripped out of the connector. Not sure who to blame Phanteks, Newegg, or UPS but it doesn't matter at this point. I am not waiting another 2 weeks for a broken case.


Sorry to hear that mate. Yet, I got mine all the way from Netherlands to Brazil without any problems and I found the packing flawless...


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Yeah that's really some bad luck. Sounds to me like you have a serious problem with the shipping carrier.

My box arrived pretty beat up looking on the outside, with one corner caved in pretty bad. It had me worried enough that I had the UPS guy make a note of the damage to the box before he left, but after opening it up I was relieved to find the case itself was mint. It was packaged at least as well as any of the other cases I've ordered before (CM Stacker 830, Corsair 500R & 800D, HAF X, Cosmos 2).


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smoke420*
> 
> Have to say I was looking forward to getting this case. The only case I could find with a reasonable price that could fit all my gear without modding. Now after three weeks and two damaged cases I could never recommend this case to anyone. The boxes were not damaged but the cases are actually getting worse. The first one had the fan cover on the front panel broke so it wouldn't close. The second one had all the clips that hold the front panel broke and the led wire was ripped out of the connector. Not sure who to blame Phanteks, Newegg, or UPS but it doesn't matter at this point. I am not waiting another 2 weeks for a broken case.


My guess is gorillas & apes at Newegg or/and UPS. If case is serviceable contact Phanteks and they will send you replacements for broken bits.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smoke420*
> 
> Have to say I was looking forward to getting this case. The only case I could find with a reasonable price that could fit all my gear without modding. Now after three weeks and two damaged cases I could never recommend this case to anyone. The boxes were not damaged but the cases are actually getting worse. The first one had the fan cover on the front panel broke so it wouldn't close. The second one had all the clips that hold the front panel broke and the led wire was ripped out of the connector. Not sure who to blame Phanteks, Newegg, or UPS but it doesn't matter at this point. I am not waiting another 2 weeks for a broken case.


Damn .... I'd contact Phanteks and Newegg and do the baked beans routine. .....



Reference comes from B&M Baked Beans .... and is a socially acceptable way of saying "Bi***ing and Moaning"









Someone at this point oughta (newegg methinks) be stepping up to the plate and taking care of this.

I will note that I hadda take the front panel off and squeeze from both size to get that thing back on.


----------



## owcraftsman

Here's the way my EP came from New Egg fortunately I had no issue other than the still unresolved cloudy side panel glass. Took them 5 weeks to finally reply and I still have no idea what their intentions are based on the quoted email below.

Their response:

Quote:


> Hello,
> 
> Sorry for the delay.
> 
> The side window is tinted. We do notice a little cloudiness and is finding a solution to it. Thank you
> 
> Sincerely,
> 
> Phanteks


Not sure who patched the box for shipping or during shipping but this is the way I got it.


----------



## Roxycon

Mine too looks cloudy with the lightning i have, whats wrong with that effect?

Rather have cloudy and tinted than plain clear


----------



## ADragg

Well guys, sadly I will be dismantling my Enthoo Primo to re-build into a smaller case. I like the big full tower and love everything about the Enthoo, but I just want something smaller. I something compact that I can set beside me on my desk and see every component inside and not have it towering over me so much. When I had it on my desk, it was just too big and I still haven't finished a lot of the finishing touch mods I planned because it's so heavy now that it's full of rads that I can't maneuver it much. I moved it down to the floor and not only is the dust terrible here in the desert in a carpeted house (another reason I want something up on a desk where it's cleaner and easier to clean out as well), but it nearly broke my back just getting it down there, so I haven't even touched it since.

The cooling performance is also so good that I realized even with SLI 780's a small form factor PC could still have incredible performance. So I started looking into small cases and modding the hell out of a BitFenix Prodigy or something, but I realized what I wanted all along was a Caselabs. So I ordered a white Caselabs Mercury S5, which is fairly small (not tiny) short but long (deep) for it's size, so I can still have a couple rads inside. It's white with windows on both sides and a narrow top window alongside the radiator on top. It's a Micro ATX case so I ordered a mATX Rampage VI Gene motherboard and am going to install hard tubing in this build (something I wanted to do with the Enthoo) as well as some other things.

I feel like I'm "breaking up" with you guys lol, but I still love the Enthoo Primo and will still be an owner (technically) until I sell the case and some of the water-cooling components that I just installed into it that won't be able to be transferred to my Caselabs. I know this case very well and still thing Phanteks makes the best production cases on the market, so I'll still be around to check and your builds and maybe answer questions. Maybe I'll do another Phanteks build when I change my mind back, as I'm sure I will haha. Especially since I can't afford a full tower from Caselabs. The small cases are bad enough, but the big Caselabs cases are crazy expensive.

I need to get some better pictures before I take it apart.


----------



## simsim44

that's to bad, I can however see your point I have mine off to the side but it's stepped down about 8" from the top of the desk and it's still pretty high as an overall height. I just started to swap out a UD-7 for the Sabertooth, and forgotten how heavy it's become. Best of luck with your new case.


----------



## Roxycon

does this mean a all white EP or is just one of the SE and they didt include the other special editions?


----------



## CoopsTHC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smoke420*
> 
> Have to say I was looking forward to getting this case. The only case I could find with a reasonable price that could fit all my gear without modding. Now after three weeks and two damaged cases I could never recommend this case to anyone. The boxes were not damaged but the cases are actually getting worse. The first one had the fan cover on the front panel broke so it wouldn't close. The second one had all the clips that hold the front panel broke and the led wire was ripped out of the connector. Not sure who to blame Phanteks, Newegg, or UPS but it doesn't matter at this point. I am not waiting another 2 weeks for a broken case.


I have to partially agree. I bought one case from Scan in the UK which was damaged (Packaging was fine), they got Phanteks to send a replacement side panel which came from overseas, when this arrive the packaging was appalling and as expected was damaged inside:




I then returned the entire case and tried to purchase from Overclockers UK which took over a month for them to get my order together before i finally decided to cancel it. I then ordered from Scan again who finally delivered the case in nearly mint condition (There are some slight scratches on the side panel but these can only be seen if caught in the right light)

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *owcraftsman*
> 
> Here's the way my EP came from New Egg fortunately I had no issue other than the still unresolved cloudy side panel glass. Took them 5 weeks to finally reply and I still have no idea what their intentions are based on the quoted email below.
> 
> Their response:
> 
> Not sure who patched the box for shipping or during shipping but this is the way I got it.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


That is dreadful... I am speechless.


----------



## jameyscott

Your guy's horror stories are scaring me away! Now km reconsidering modding my case to heck.


----------



## Branish

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *owcraftsman*
> 
> Here's the way my EP came from New Egg fortunately I had no issue other than the still unresolved cloudy side panel glass. Took them 5 weeks to finally reply and I still have no idea what their intentions are based on the quoted email below.
> 
> Their response:
> 
> Not sure who patched the box for shipping or during shipping but this is the way I got it.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Man. That looks like Ace Ventura delivered your case.


----------



## xlim3y

Ouch, that sucks









Mine came from Amazon (and it was the last one they had) in 2 days with not so much as a scratch on the box. (first pc case I ever got with the box so pristine)

Must remember to tip my fedex driver at xmas.


----------



## smoke420

Yup The Enthoo Primo is a no go. Tried Phanteks and the guy that answered the phone sounded like he was on something. Normally that wouldn't bother me but the guy was no help. He just keeps saying no problem we will send you the parts just shot us an email. Tried to get clarification on what was needed in this email, no help. I send them original invoice, RMA invoice, and pictures of the damage. No response from Phanteks. I give up, after a 3 week wait and multiple calls all you get is 24 hours to answer an e-mail. I don't think that's unreasonable. I than contacted Newegg for another RMA, this time for a full refund. Newegg also paid for UPS to pick the package up at my door and refunded the money I paid to get it picked up the first time.

This has been a horrible experience and its not over yet. Another 2 weeks to get my money back and I still didn't get the case I wanted. I also have parts being delivered today from Performance-pcs for a build that's not going to happen now. Guess I will get the air 540 and give my brother the extra 360 rad.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jameyscott*
> 
> Your guy's horror stories are scaring me away! Now km reconsidering modding my case to heck.


Don't give up. These kinds of issues are not the norm. For every one like these there are many received with no damage at all and the few that do have issues with front latch or whatever Phanteks customer service has sent immediate replacements, usually received in less than a week.


----------



## Branish

Well I just got my Primo and it arrived unscathed. The case is awesome but when people said it was big they weren't kidding. I'm very much looking forward to building in this case.

I don't know what Linus was smoking when he said the fans were cheap and had a lot of flex to them. Either I'm as weak as Mr. Burns or he possesses super human strength 'cause I tried flexing them and they do not flex in the least.


----------



## jameyscott

Lol @ linus with super strength. That'd be a site to see.


----------



## Fumferknuckle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> -for the time being remove the covers for slots 1-3 and easily move sensors around.
> -Put a 140mm fan in slots 1-3 for the dog days of summer.
> That's been addressed int he last twp pages.....a UT60 will fit 99% of the time..... however, on a good number of boards, the extra 15mm will make some things a bit "inconvenient"
> 
> 1. If ya look at the Modzoo review, they swapped out the 60 for a 45mm , one reason being access to the 8 pin EPS cable .... I had the same issue on the Asus M6F.
> 2. It completely blocked access to the MPCIE combo card thingie
> 3. Made the access to the MoBo Water Block port a bit tight
> 4. Made access to CPU fan headers a bit tight
> 5. Blocked view of the MoBo LCD diagnostic panel
> 6. Blocked access to the voltage monitoring points.
> 
> See FAQ - http://themodzoo.com/forum/index.php?/page/articles.html/_/reviews/cases/phanteks-enthoo-primo-full-tower-review-r67?pg=8
> 
> In addition, a 480 will
> 
> a. not allow you to have the ports in the front
> b. not allow you to have top bleed fill ports w/ drilling out the case
> c. render the top drive bay unusable
> d. not allow you to use the excellent Phanteks fans that come with the case for Rad cooling
> 
> On the other hand, a 420 will allow all of those things and it will provide more cooling capacity than a 480.
> 
> XT45-480 = 245 watts in push and 296 watts in push / pull @ 1250 rpm
> UT60-480 = 251 watts in push and 303 watts in push / pull @ 1250 rpm
> 
> XT45-420 = 250 watts in push and 302 watts in push / pull @ 1250 rpm
> UT60-420 = 256 watts in push and 309 watts in push / pull @ 1250 rpm
> 
> So here's an interesting comparison ..... in push / pull
> 
> The UT60-480 ($120) gives ya 303 watts in push / pull and ya gotta buy 8 fans (say $15 each) for a total cost of $240 ($0.79 per watt)
> The XT45-420 ($85) gives ya 302 watts in push / pull and ya only gotta buy 6 fans (say $15 each) for a total cost of $175 ($0.58 per watt)
> 
> So for the same level of cooling:
> 
> -Ya save $65 (27% per watt)
> -Ya eliminate potential issues 1. thru 6. if they apply to you
> -Ya eliminate problems a. thru d.
> A Monsta fits....watch Jesse and Bill's video on Modzoo. Though s 280 + 420 is just push more than enough for twin SLI and twin CF (well maybe not 290x/290) and a Haswell at 4.6GHz. As you'll note above, extra thickness does very, very little .... your delta T will be so low that the 21C air entering even a 30mm is just about at the coolant temperature by the time it exits......extra depth when the air is already close to 30C and the water's at 31C doesn't really do much.
> 
> At 1250 rpm .....
> 
> ST30-480 - 291
> XT45-480 - 296 (50% more rad for +1.7% performance increase)
> UT60-480 - 303 (33% more rad for +2.4% performance increase)
> Monsta-480 - 318 (43% more rad for +4.9% performance increase)
> Look at the 1st post and Jesse's FAQ on Modzoo, but as I recall no 240 in the front if you have a 480. And also no HD cages with a Rad and fans on the side mount. Also see page 22 on the manual.
> 
> 1. FrozenCPU.com for the custom cables but they have sets pre-made in red and white for Corsair ..... can also have Lutro do them.... tho FCPU sells Lutro stuff, you might have to go direct for Lutro custom cables.
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/cat/l3/g2/c413/s1599/list/p1/Cables-PSU_Cables-PSU_Cable_Sets-Page1.html
> 
> 2. I have:
> 
> (5 soon to be 10) )Rad fans on one PCB
> (5 soon to be 6) case Fans on the other PCB


So, would you guys recommend to me that I get a 420 in the top, probably 45mm thick, and have a 480 monsta in the bottom? Or should I use a 60mm thick 480 in the bottom? In case it matters, I will be cooling two 780 ti's (though I may just go with 780s) and a 4770k (was going to do a 4930k but decided against it). And for the motherboard I will be using the Asus Maximus VI Formula.
Also, does anyone know if the fans on the white version of the case have white LEDs in the front? If so that would be pretty awesome. It seems that the white version may not be released soon? That really sucks, as I was hoping to get that model and base my color scheme around it. Oh, and while I am talking fans, I am unsure of how what to do. Should I just buy more of the included fans, or get a lot of Corsair SP 120's? It would probably look silly to have two different fans that are visible.
And I gotta say that the Reeven 6 Eyes fan controller looks pretty damn cool.. I wonder how it would look with a dual bay res..


----------



## Hereisphilly

Finally back off site and back home after a week and a bit with no internet connection! Looks like i've missed loads here!
Lots of very nice pics of new rigs been put up, if you want to be added to the owners club gallery,
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/ccc?key=0AkQu-gDSL98FdEQtNnVITTVSdmd6QTRFV0MtQkR1YkE&usp=sharing
and have the club sig, PM me your info or post it here and i'll get it all uploaded


----------



## simsim44

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Don't give up. These kinds of issues are not the norm. For every one like these there are many received with no damage at all and the few that do have issues with front latch or whatever Phanteks customer service has sent immediate replacements, usually received in less than a week.


I agree, Mine came undamaged, however the box had a couple of dents, but like I said the case was unaffected. I have purchased the latches as a precaution, because guys were having issues with them, and I just like having extra of everything.


----------



## jameyscott

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Don't give up. These kinds of issues are not the norm. For every one like these there are many received with no damage at all and the few that do have issues with front latch or whatever Phanteks customer service has sent immediate replacements, usually received in less than a week.


Thanks.







I'll be getting it from Amazon if I get it. So really no worries, I just don't like the idea of having to go through multiple cases just to get one that's not damaged. currently debating between the 900d, this case and completely going crazy on my air 540.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *simsim44*
> 
> I agree, Mine came undamaged, however the box had a couple of dents, but like I said the case was unaffected. I have purchased the latches as a precaution, because guys were having issues with them, and I just like having extra of everything.


Thanks!


----------



## ADragg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fumferknuckle*
> 
> So, would you guys recommend to me that I get a 420 in the top, probably 45mm thick, and have a 480 monsta in the bottom? Or should I use a 60mm thick 480 in the bottom? In case it matters, I will be cooling two 780 ti's (though I may just go with 780s) and a 4770k (was going to do a 4930k but decided against it). And for the motherboard I will be using the Asus Maximus VI Formula.
> Also, does anyone know if the fans on the white version of the case have white LEDs in the front? If so that would be pretty awesome. It seems that the white version may not be released soon? That really sucks, as I was hoping to get that model and base my color scheme around it. Oh, and while I am talking fans, I am unsure of how what to do. Should I just buy more of the included fans, or get a lot of Corsair SP 120's? It would probably look silly to have two different fans that are visible.
> And I gotta say that the Reeven 6 Eyes fan controller looks pretty damn cool.. I wonder how it would look with a dual bay res..


I would definitely get more Phanteks fans. They are far and away superior to Corsair SP's. The SP's are a very average fan in terms of noise an performance, but they're popular because people like the rings and they're a decent price. However, they don't make a 120 version of this fan. I'd personally go with the Phanteks on the 420 in the top, and if you must get a 480 for the bottom, then use something like the Noiseblocker eLoops, which are some of the best 120mm fans available and they don't look too different from the Phanteks. Same color scheme at least.

Anyway, the 420 in top and 480 in bottom is way overkill. I understand doing it for looks or just because it's badass, but you really don't need that much rad. You could do a 420 in top and a 280 (or 240, or 360) in the bottom and the temps would be about the same. I have a 45mm 420 in top and a 60mm 280 in bottom (and the thicker 280 is only for looks as thicker rads don't really perform much better, if at all, and just restricts the air flow more). I have an OC'd 4770k and OC'd GTX 780 and the temps are incredibly low, even with super quiet fan speeds while under full load. Jack Naylor has the same setup but with SLI 780's and still gets incredibly low temps. With the side "wall" inside the case, you don't even see the whole radiator if it's more than 2 fans long anyway, so unless you look up close, my 280 in the bottom may as well be a 560. If you just like the looks then that's cool and you wouldn't be the first to go for a ton of cooling redundancy, but I think you'll be well past the point of diminishing returns, where you might not really see any better temps than with a radiator half the size in the bottom.

Just thought I'd mention that in case you want to save some money and you'd also be able to do the same thing Jack and I (and others) have done with removing the bottom drive cage to mount a pump down under there since you wouldn't have the long radiator in the way. I'd go for that kind of setup and a tube res on the built in res bracket, but that's just more of my opinion, which is biased since that's exactly what I have (250mm EK tube res, 280 bottom, 420 top, and pump mounted in lower drive cage area). I'd avoid the bay res, personally. Also, the Reeven Six Eyes is definitely good, but you wouldn't see it or the bay res normally, unless you plan to remove the door or mod it somehow.


----------



## xCloudyHorizon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ADragg*
> 
> However, they don't make a 120 version of this fan.


Luckily the 120 versions are coming out soon.


----------



## Fumferknuckle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ADragg*
> 
> I would definitely get more Phanteks fans. They are far and away superior to Corsair SP's. The SP's are a very average fan in terms of noise an performance, but they're popular because people like the rings and they're a decent price. However, they don't make a 120 version of this fan. I'd personally go with the Phanteks on the 420 in the top, and if you must get a 480 for the bottom, then use something like the Noiseblocker eLoops, which are some of the best 120mm fans available and they don't look too different from the Phanteks. Same color scheme at least.
> 
> Anyway, the 420 in top and 480 in bottom is way overkill. I understand doing it for looks or just because it's badass, but you really don't need that much rad. You could do a 420 in top and a 280 (or 240, or 360) in the bottom and the temps would be about the same. I have a 45mm 420 in top and a 60mm 280 in bottom (and the thicker 280 is only for looks as thicker rads don't really perform much better, if at all, and just restricts the air flow more). I have an OC'd 4770k and OC'd GTX 780 and the temps are incredibly low, even with super quiet fan speeds while under full load. Jack Naylor has the same setup but with SLI 780's and still gets incredibly low temps. With the side "wall" inside the case, you don't even see the whole radiator if it's more than 2 fans long anyway, so unless you look up close, my 280 in the bottom may as well be a 560. If you just like the looks then that's cool and you wouldn't be the first to go for a ton of cooling redundancy, but I think you'll be well past the point of diminishing returns, where you might not really see any better temps than with a radiator half the size in the bottom.
> 
> Just thought I'd mention that in case you want to save some money and you'd also be able to do the same thing Jack and I (and others) have done with removing the bottom drive cage to mount a pump down under there since you wouldn't have the long radiator in the way. I'd go for that kind of setup and a tube res on the built in res bracket, but that's just more of my opinion, which is biased since that's exactly what I have (250mm EK tube res, 280 bottom, 420 top, and pump mounted in lower drive cage area). I'd avoid the bay res, personally. Also, the Reeven Six Eyes is definitely good, but you wouldn't see it or the bay res normally, unless you plan to remove the door or mod it somehow.


Let me first start off by saying, thank you for such a long and detailed post! I am still thinking on it, but what I may do now, is 420/360 in the top, and then either 360 or 280 in the bottom. I have heard many great things about the stock fans in the case, and you get so many of them that I feel inclined to use them. I don't know much about tube reservoirs so I will have to do some research on what brand and mounting system is best.
Again, I really appreciate your help!


----------



## jacekgothic




----------



## Branish

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jacekgothic*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Hey Jacek how do you find those eloops mounted in pull? Btw those labels are going to look great.


----------



## ADragg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xCloudyHorizon*
> 
> Luckily the 120 versions are coming out soon.


Oh DAYUUM. I wonder how soon. I still haven't ordered the Noiseblockers for my Caselabs S5 build.


----------



## ADragg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Branish*
> 
> Hey Jacek how do you find those eloops mounted in pull? Btw those labels are going to look great.


I would love to know too, but I don't think he has them in pull. Unless you're assuming he has some in the top where we can't see?

BTW Jacek, having the fans exhaust out the bottom is going to be very restricted without a pedestal or something raising the case up a bit. The only place for the air to exhaust is straight down and since the case is barely raised at all by the rubber feet, it almost completely restricted. Just mentioning since a lot of people don't realize the little vents on the sides at the bottom (the ones one the two bottom dust filters that pop out) are pretty much just for looks since when you push them into place they are completely blocked off by some plastic that they mount up against. If I were keeping my Enthoo I might look into drilling out vent holes in that plastic so at least some air could be pulled in through the sides (or out, in the case of an exhaust setup).


----------



## Branish

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ADragg*
> 
> I would love to know too, but I don't think he has them in pull. Unless you're assuming he has some in the top where we can't see?
> 
> BTW Jacek, having the fans exhaust out the bottom is going to be very restricted without a pedestal or something raising the case up a bit. The only place for the air to exhaust is straight down and since the case is barely raised at all by the rubber feet, it almost completely restricted. Just mentioning since a lot of people don't realize the little vents on the sides at the bottom (the ones one the two bottom dust filters that pop out) are pretty much just for looks since when you push them into place they are completely blocked off by some plastic that they mount up against. If I were keeping my Enthoo I might look into drilling out vent holes in that plastic so at least some air could be pulled in through the sides (or out, in the case of an exhaust setup).


You're right. They are in push at the bottom. I didn't look closely enough at the photo. I guess I'm trying to find a reason to buy those fans. They're incredibly good looking. I feel like Spongbob in this video:


----------



## simsim44

I'm still laughing LOL


----------



## ADragg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Branish*
> 
> You're right. They are in push at the bottom. I didn't look closely enough at the photo. I guess I'm trying to find a reason to buy those fans. They're incredibly good looking. I feel like Spongbob in this video:


Hahaha I know exactly what you mean. I just built my Enthoo Primo a few months ago and I've already ordered a new Caselabs case and a mATX motherboard and a bunch of other stuff to rebuild it into a smaller form factor PC, which I really did not need. I even have a 3 month old Alphacool 280 and 420 radiator pair that I won't be using in the new build. I can see a lot of that stuff but still... such a waste and I didn't need to go ahead with it.

The Noiseblocker eLoops are definitely a beautiful fan. They do have that issue with being in pull, though. I have heard that it's only because the fan itself touches the rad slightly in pull and that's what the noise is, so some have suggested that you could just get a radiator gasket to space it just enough to get rid of the noise, but I haven't heard of anyone doing that to see if it works. Others have said it is because of turbulence or some bologna.

There's also the Noiseblocker M12's which look great as well (though they wouldn't match my white build as nicely). They're supposed to be slightly quieter and better for lower speed use on radiators. I think the transparent black blades look awesome and the vibration resistance would be awesome since the corners are actually big inserts that are entirely made of rubber. I've thought of removing the black rubber corners and the trans black blades and painting the plastic frame white to match my white build. I think that could look amazing.


----------



## NE0XY

Hi,
Does a EVGA GTX 780Ti Classified card fit with both of the reservoir mounts being used? The card will be watercooled.


----------



## flaminghomer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NE0XY*
> 
> Hi,
> Does a EVGA GTX 780Ti Classified card fit with both of the reservoir mounts being used? The card will be watercooled.


No.


----------



## NE0XY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *flaminghomer*
> 
> No.


Hmm, okay thanks


----------



## Fumferknuckle

This is a really long post. Sorry









Okay.. So I just found this and went completely nergasm.. http://www.frozencpu.com/products/22074/ex-rad-661/Alphacool_NexXxoS_UT60_Full_Copper_Triple_140mm_Radiator_-_Special_Edition_White.html?tl=g30c95s931#blank
My plan is to get the white version of the Primo (if it will hurry up and be released!!) and use white Primo Chill tubing, and use the Asus Maximus Formula for the cool looking armor and the red for accents. While looking at radiators (I am still trying to decide on what thickness and number of fans to use), I found that white edition of the alphacool. Although I really like the way it looks, I feel like doing two of those AND white tubing AND a white Primo would be overkill on white. LOL.







What do you guys think? I think even white case and tubing, with regular black radiators and the stock fans included with the Primo would look sick.
If the white editon of the Primo doesn't come out soon, like by beginning of next month, then I may cave and get the black version (although I love the looks of the white case, especially with the white LED's). If I got the black version I would probably end up getting the white radiators though.








I have a few questions for you guys actually. First being, what's your preferred 780 water block? I like these two the best:
1. http://www.frozencpu.com/products/22130/ex-blc-1581/EK_GeForce_780_GTX_Ti_VGA_Liquid_Cooling_Block_-_Nickel_Acetal_EK-FC780_GTX_Ti_-_AcetalNickel.html?tl=g30c311s1996#blank
2. http://www.frozencpu.com/products/22286/ex-blc-1592/XSPC_Razor_GTX_Titan_780_780_Ti_Full_Coverage_VGA_Block_-_Reference_Design.html?tl=g30c311s1996#blank
The XSPC one would probably look really cool, showing off the case in the dark.
My second question is, what radiator sizes should I go with? I've asked something similar but I truly can't decide. I keep eyeing those white radiators, and it makes me think of doing one in the top and one in the bottom. Obviously in the top I will have to go thinner, especially if I want to consider push/pull. But in the bottom I am (from what I have been reading) able to mount a monsta in the bottom with push/pull if I desire. Although I imagine that would get in the way with 2 way SLI. I imagine it gets in the way of a small reservoir mounted at the rear of the case as well. Speaking of reservoirs, I can't really decide on that either. I really like the idea of bay reservoirs, but I've read filling and bleeding them are a pain. I found this little guy right here, and he looks pretty sick nasty: http://www.frozencpu.com/products/20658/ex-res-596/PrimoChill_120mm_CTR_Compression_Tube_Advanced_Reservoir_System_-_120mm_-_Frosted_CTR-ADV-12-F.html?tl=g30c97s165
If any of you can help me out here too. I am a bit clueless on reservoirs. Like, is there any specific brand that is really good, and a certain volume I need? I seen a 80mm res of the same look as the one I linked, but not knowing the use of sizes or anything, I don't know. I assume larger reservoirs are for looks and to make filling easier. Also, if I did get, say that 120mm res, would it fit either in the rear of the case or at the side beside the hard drive cage?
Anyway, would a white res, white tubing, white case and white radiators be too much (although I may do traditional black ones)?
This post got really long really fast. Sorry about that. Haha. Thanks for any and all help in advanced!
EDIT* Whoops! I just realized that the white radiator I listed is a UT60. I know it is possible to mount that in the top, but with push/pull it's a bit too large. Doesn't matter too much, as I can just do either push or pull. What do you guy's think would be best?
Oh, and is a 560 even possible? LOL.


----------



## Fumferknuckle

On second thought, mounting a reservoir in front of the graphics cards (the mount included that hides lots of the motherboard cabling) would probably both look better and be easier to route tubing too. It would also allow for a larger res (presumably).


----------



## bond32

Has anyone replaced the blue LED's in the fans with a different color yet? I have the LED's ordered, will do this project this week.


----------



## doyll

Been discussed and done here several times. Doing a quick search of the thread should find them easily.


----------



## Seid Dark

I've heard that stock 140mm Phanteks fans are quality ones and have pretty good static pressure. Would having 420mm rad in top (for example Alphacool NexXxoS UT60 420) make sense with 3x of stock fans? I'm torn between Primo, NZXT H440 and Enthoo Luxe.


----------



## bond32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Been discussed and done here several times. Doing a quick search of the thread should find them easily.


I'm talking about the fans, not the case LED's. I know the case LED's have been discussed a lot.


----------



## doyll

Sorry, my bad.








You are right, don't remember anyone changing fan LEDs.
They push out easily so should be no problem. Assume you already knew that. As long as replacements are the same size / spec should be easy.


----------



## Branish

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seid Dark*
> 
> I've heard that stock 140mm Phanteks fans are quality ones and have pretty good static pressure. Would having 420mm rad in top (for example Alphacool NexXxoS UT60 420) make sense with 3x of stock fans? I'm torn between Primo, NZXT H440 and Enthoo Luxe.


I've just started test fitting everything in my Primo and I have the white UT60 420 mounted in the roof with 3 of the stock fans as well as the white 360 Monsta on the bottom both in pull and the fans are really good quality. The UT60 fits amazingly well too and doesn't impede at all on anything so far. You just can't do push/pull. The stock fans under the top mesh looks awesome too.


----------



## ADragg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seid Dark*
> 
> I've heard that stock 140mm Phanteks fans are quality ones and have pretty good static pressure. Would having 420mm rad in top (for example Alphacool NexXxoS UT60 420) make sense with 3x of stock fans? I'm torn between Primo, NZXT H440 and Enthoo Luxe.


They're some of the very best 140mm fans on the market. Maybe THE best in some cases, especially where a combination of low noise and performance are both desired. Not the quietest and not the best performing but one of the very best fans in 140mm that blend those two things very well. I run mine at less than half speed and they're very quiet yet keep my rads very cool. That setup would make plenty of sense. I have a 420 in top and 280 in bottom setup and I think that's one of the best setups you can do in the Enthoo because it's enough cooling to be redundant in almost all cases, but isn't crazy in the amount of space it takes up.


----------



## ADragg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fumferknuckle*
> 
> This is a really long post. Sorry
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Okay.. So I just found this and went completely nergasm.. http://www.frozencpu.com/products/22074/ex-rad-661/Alphacool_NexXxoS_UT60_Full_Copper_Triple_140mm_Radiator_-_Special_Edition_White.html?tl=g30c95s931#blank
> My plan is to get the white version of the Primo (if it will hurry up and be released!!) and use white Primo Chill tubing, and use the Asus Maximus Formula for the cool looking armor and the red for accents. While looking at radiators (I am still trying to decide on what thickness and number of fans to use), I found that white edition of the alphacool. Although I really like the way it looks, I feel like doing two of those AND white tubing AND a white Primo would be overkill on white. LOL.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What do you guys think? I think even white case and tubing, with regular black radiators and the stock fans included with the Primo would look sick.
> If the white editon of the Primo doesn't come out soon, like by beginning of next month, then I may cave and get the black version (although I love the looks of the white case, especially with the white LED's). If I got the black version I would probably end up getting the white radiators though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have a few questions for you guys actually. First being, what's your preferred 780 water block? I like these two the best:
> 1. http://www.frozencpu.com/products/22130/ex-blc-1581/EK_GeForce_780_GTX_Ti_VGA_Liquid_Cooling_Block_-_Nickel_Acetal_EK-FC780_GTX_Ti_-_AcetalNickel.html?tl=g30c311s1996#blank
> 2. http://www.frozencpu.com/products/22286/ex-blc-1592/XSPC_Razor_GTX_Titan_780_780_Ti_Full_Coverage_VGA_Block_-_Reference_Design.html?tl=g30c311s1996#blank
> The XSPC one would probably look really cool, showing off the case in the dark.
> My second question is, what radiator sizes should I go with? I've asked something similar but I truly can't decide. I keep eyeing those white radiators, and it makes me think of doing one in the top and one in the bottom. Obviously in the top I will have to go thinner, especially if I want to consider push/pull. But in the bottom I am (from what I have been reading) able to mount a monsta in the bottom with push/pull if I desire. Although I imagine that would get in the way with 2 way SLI. I imagine it gets in the way of a small reservoir mounted at the rear of the case as well. Speaking of reservoirs, I can't really decide on that either. I really like the idea of bay reservoirs, but I've read filling and bleeding them are a pain. I found this little guy right here, and he looks pretty sick nasty: http://www.frozencpu.com/products/20658/ex-res-596/PrimoChill_120mm_CTR_Compression_Tube_Advanced_Reservoir_System_-_120mm_-_Frosted_CTR-ADV-12-F.html?tl=g30c97s165
> If any of you can help me out here too. I am a bit clueless on reservoirs. Like, is there any specific brand that is really good, and a certain volume I need? I seen a 80mm res of the same look as the one I linked, but not knowing the use of sizes or anything, I don't know. I assume larger reservoirs are for looks and to make filling easier. Also, if I did get, say that 120mm res, would it fit either in the rear of the case or at the side beside the hard drive cage?
> Anyway, would a white res, white tubing, white case and white radiators be too much (although I may do traditional black ones)?
> This post got really long really fast. Sorry about that. Haha. Thanks for any and all help in advanced!
> EDIT* Whoops! I just realized that the white radiator I listed is a UT60. I know it is possible to mount that in the top, but with push/pull it's a bit too large. Doesn't matter too much, as I can just do either push or pull. What do you guy's think would be best?
> Oh, and is a 560 even possible? LOL.


I don't think it's too much white at all. It's a white case, so as much white as possible with a color of your choice as an accent is what looks best in my opinion. The white is the "canvas" or the neutral background, so anything you can get white and as little black as possible is best, I think. Just look at the very nice Caselabs builds people like Snef do. They go to great lengths to get every little thing white. Looks amazing when done right. Then your accent color really pops and highlights whatever is in that color (such as coolant, ram, mobo accents, sleeving, etc.).

I would definitely go with the stock 140 fans and don't worry too much about the radiator thickness. A triple rad on top and a dual on bottom is PLENTY even if they're both super slim radiators. Since they're plenty enough to give redundancy even with multiple graphics cards setups, then it only makes sense to go for a silent build, since using loud, fast fan speeds isn't going to yield you much gains anyway. You might drop a few degrees but the temp are already going to be so low that there's no point. It's not like you're going to get higher overclocks from it since you're already going to be well below the temperatures where you're not limited by temperature to go for higher overclocks anyway. That's why I say don't worry about the rad thickness, because if you do go for a silent build with lower fan speeds, then thin rads actually perform better because they're optimized for low fan speeds. At 600rpm, you'll get better temps with a 30mm thick rad than an 80mm Monsta in most cases. I personally think the Monsta looks too thick but if you do like the look, that would be the one reason to go for it. You're only going to get a noticeable temperature improvement with a thick rad if you crank the fan speed up and even then it will be slight.

I have a 45mm thick in the roof and 60mm in bottoms and that's only because I thought they looked cool. My tastes have now changed to where I think thin rads in push pull look better, but I do still think a thick rad like the 60mm looks really good in the bottom position of the Enthoo, since it has that tall wall next to it anyway. It's not getting me any better temps than a 30mm thick at low-mid fan speeds, though (in fact, maybe poorer temps). In my upcoming build, I'm using all 30mm thick rads since I prefer quiet performance and the look of push pull. Push pull also isn't going to help much for performance, but again, I think it looks cool and it keeps the positive pressure inside the case up to help prevent dirt and aid in passive exhaust, which is why I prefer to set all fans except for maybe the rear one as intakes on most cases. I'd even set every single fan as intake depending on the case, as long as it had enough ventilation for passive exhaust.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fumferknuckle*
> 
> So, would you guys recommend to me that I get a 420 in the top, probably 45mm thick, and have a 480 monsta in the bottom? Or should I use a 60mm thick 480 in the bottom? In case it matters, I will be cooling two 780 ti's (though I may just go with 780s) and a 4770k (was going to do a 4930k but decided against it). And for the motherboard I will be using the Asus Maximus VI Formula.
> Also, does anyone know if the fans on the white version of the case have white LEDs in the front? If so that would be pretty awesome. It seems that the white version may not be released soon? That really sucks, as I was hoping to get that model and base my color scheme around it. Oh, and while I am talking fans, I am unsure of how what to do. Should I just buy more of the included fans, or get a lot of Corsair SP 120's? It would probably look silly to have two different fans that are visible.
> And I gotta say that the Reeven 6 Eyes fan controller looks pretty damn cool.. I wonder how it would look with a dual bay res..


For what you are putting in it, the 420 + 280 will do the following with twin 780s (+25% OC) and 4770k @ 4.6Ghz:

Delta T of 8.4C with (5) fans in Push @ 1200 rpm blowing air into the case, case raised an inch and filters / grilles on top and bottom removed
Delta T of 12.2C with (5) fans in Push @ 850 rpm blowing air into the case, case on desk all filters / grilles on top and bottom in place.

Using the M6F, the 45mm works .... as in my previous post, 60mm is workable but it blocks numerous features access points on the M6F.

AFAIK, the White case has same fans w/ same blue LED,

Yes, the SP140s are great fans, best performing 140s I have seen ...... and the new 140s dominated the 120s in air cooler testing over at SPCR.....only seen 1 test on rads but it did confirm the performance carries over to rads. ELoop and Scythe have new 140s coming out .... I expect this new class of fans will prove out to rule the roost at low to moderate speeds ..... at some point (1800+), logic dictates the blade flex will come into play which would favor the smaller 120s but the Phanteks blades are quite stiff and at their speed, even lighter blades wouldn't have a flex issue.

I do like the Reeven, but not for fan control..... I just use it for temp display. the Phanteks PCB is a far better means of control via Asus FanXpert2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fumferknuckle*
> 
> Let me first start off by saying, thank you for such a long and detailed post! I am still thinking on it, but what I may do now, is 420/360 in the top, and then either 360 or 280 in the bottom. I have heard many great things about the stock fans in the case, and you get so many of them that I feel inclined to use them. I don't know much about tube reservoirs so I will have to do some research on what brand and mounting system is best.
> Again, I really appreciate your help!


I'm not a fan or bay res's ... seen enuff posts with leaks to scare me away but assuming those issues are completely resolved, they do vibrate and access is easier with tubes.....the best is the Aqualis but it it's wide and won't fit on res bracket w/ 10.5" cards ..... same w/ the Photon. With those eliminated, i went with the EK which also comes in white to match ya intentions on case and rads. The Phanteks res bracket is predrilled for the EK-250

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ADragg*
> 
> I would love to know too, but I don't think he has them in pull. Unless you're assuming he has some in the top where we can't see?
> 
> BTW Jacek, having the fans exhaust out the bottom is going to be very restricted without a pedestal or something raising the case up a bit. The only place for the air to exhaust is straight down and since the case is barely raised at all by the rubber feet, it almost completely restricted. Just mentioning since a lot of people don't realize the little vents on the sides at the bottom (the ones one the two bottom dust filters that pop out) are pretty much just for looks since when you push them into place they are completely blocked off by some plastic that they mount up against. If I were keeping my Enthoo I might look into drilling out vent holes in that plastic so at least some air could be pulled in through the sides (or out, in the case of an exhaust setup).


I'd recommend using a single set of fans under the bottom rad pushing in...... Doyll 1st noted the problem with the intake down at the bottom, but I can say quite assuredly that the restriction at the top is even greater..... well at least with a 280 on bottom..... I expect that is because the 280 is able to steal some air that comes in from the front fans which gets sucked in thru the wide grille on the bottom under the HD bays and into the chamber below the Rad mounting plate. With all grilles and filters in place, whereas logic dictates that the 420 should provide 1.5 times as much delta T as the 280, the 280 was dropping my temps by 1.3C whereas the 420 was dropping 0.9 - 1.0C. This reversed when grilles and filters were removed. Obviously if there was a 480 on the bottom, the advantage of pulling thru some fresh intake air from the front fans would be substantially diminished if not eliminated.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NE0XY*
> 
> Hi,
> Does a EVGA GTX 780Ti Classified card fit with both of the reservoir mounts being used? The card will be watercooled.


IIRC, the Classi Ti is > than 10.6" long which eliminates 60mm reservoirs mounted on the bracket using the pre drilled holes. Might try the math for a 50mm res which would add 5mm of clearance (i,.e Phobya) but others have mounted using velcrow. OTOH, if doing SLI, the slanted part on the bottom of the bracket becomes an issue.... here's a pic w/ the 10.5" Asus 780 DCII




And that's with EK's "short block" ....it's a full cover block but is 1" shorter than the other 2 EK blocks. So anything "longer" than the DCII or the EK short (Clean acrylic) block will require modding the bracket in SLI if using slots Nos 2 and 5 as on the M6F.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fumferknuckle*
> 
> This is a really long post. Sorry
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Okay.. So I just found this and went completely nergasm.. http://www.frozencpu.com/products/22074/ex-rad-661/Alphacool_NexXxoS_UT60_Full_Copper_Triple_140mm_Radiator_-_Special_Edition_White.html?tl=g30c95s931#blank
> My plan is to get the white version of the Primo (if it will hurry up and be released!!) and use white Primo Chill tubing, and use the Asus Maximus Formula for the cool looking armor and the red for accents. While looking at radiators (I am still trying to decide on what thickness and number of fans to use), I found that white edition of the alphacool. Although I really like the way it looks, I feel like doing two of those AND white tubing AND a white Primo would be overkill on white. LOL.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What do you guys think? I think even white case and tubing, with regular black radiators and the stock fans included with the Primo would look sick.
> If the white editon of the Primo doesn't come out soon, like by beginning of next month, then I may cave and get the black version (although I love the looks of the white case, especially with the white LED's). If I got the black version I would probably end up getting the white radiators though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have a few questions for you guys actually. First being, what's your preferred 780 water block? I like these two the best:
> 1. http://www.frozencpu.com/products/22130/ex-blc-1581/EK_GeForce_780_GTX_Ti_VGA_Liquid_Cooling_Block_-_Nickel_Acetal_EK-FC780_GTX_Ti_-_AcetalNickel.html?tl=g30c311s1996#blank
> 2. http://www.frozencpu.com/products/22286/ex-blc-1592/XSPC_Razor_GTX_Titan_780_780_Ti_Full_Coverage_VGA_Block_-_Reference_Design.html?tl=g30c311s1996#blank
> The XSPC one would probably look really cool, showing off the case in the dark.
> My second question is, what radiator sizes should I go with? I've asked something similar but I truly can't decide. I keep eyeing those white radiators, and it makes me think of doing one in the top and one in the bottom. Obviously in the top I will have to go thinner, especially if I want to consider push/pull. But in the bottom I am (from what I have been reading) able to mount a monsta in the bottom with push/pull if I desire. Although I imagine that would get in the way with 2 way SLI. I imagine it gets in the way of a small reservoir mounted at the rear of the case as well. Speaking of reservoirs, I can't really decide on that either. I really like the idea of bay reservoirs, but I've read filling and bleeding them are a pain. I found this little guy right here, and he looks pretty sick nasty: http://www.frozencpu.com/products/20658/ex-res-596/PrimoChill_120mm_CTR_Compression_Tube_Advanced_Reservoir_System_-_120mm_-_Frosted_CTR-ADV-12-F.html?tl=g30c97s165
> If any of you can help me out here too. I am a bit clueless on reservoirs. Like, is there any specific brand that is really good, and a certain volume I need? I seen a 80mm res of the same look as the one I linked, but not knowing the use of sizes or anything, I don't know. I assume larger reservoirs are for looks and to make filling easier. Also, if I did get, say that 120mm res, would it fit either in the rear of the case or at the side beside the hard drive cage?
> Anyway, would a white res, white tubing, white case and white radiators be too much (although I may do traditional black ones)?
> This post got really long really fast. Sorry about that. Haha. Thanks for any and all help in advanced!
> EDIT* Whoops! I just realized that the white radiator I listed is a UT60. I know it is possible to mount that in the top, but with push/pull it's a bit too large. Doesn't matter too much, as I can just do either push or pull. What do you guy's think would be best?
> Oh, and is a 560 even possible? LOL.


As far as the white ..... I went with the white EK res to break up the wall of black.....I was tempted to do the rads in white but the cost premium was a bit much....and the finish isn't one of alphacools strong points I considered painting it white myself.....in the end I left it black.

As for that EK water block, it's the long version so in SLI at least, the bottom one ion slot 5 will hit the res bracket. What is the length of your chosen card ?

EK GFX water blocks rule the roost with regard to VRM and RAM temps and by huge margins.





The rads will have no effect on SLI but yes, rads thicker than 45mm on the top can get in the way of access to cables and features tho actual interference (i.e. hitting a heat sink) is something I haven't actually seen. A 420 on top and a 280 on a bottom gives me 12.2C delta T with Phanteks fans at 850 rpm and all filters / grilles in place.....it also offers a lot of physical advantages with regard to flexibility as outlined a few pages back. With fans at 1200 rpm and filter's / grilles removed, Delta T drops to 8.4C .... that's all w/ 4770k at 4.6GHz and twin 780s at 25% OC and just 5 fans in push.

60mm Res's work in SLI w/ card lengths up to 10.6" using standard mounting holes and EK "short blocks" ... you can see clearances in pics above.

A push / pull XT45 (222 watts) blows away a UT60 (188 watts) in push or pull. Those numbers are based upon 360 rads tested on Martinsliquidlab site. Obviously larger rads will provide more cooling but the proportions wud remain same.

And no 560 not possible.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fumferknuckle*
> 
> On second thought, mounting a reservoir in front of the graphics cards (the mount included that hides lots of the motherboard cabling) would probably both look better and be easier to route tubing too. It would also allow for a larger res (presumably).


Perhaps a pic will help



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seid Dark*
> 
> I've heard that stock 140mm Phanteks fans are quality ones and have pretty good static pressure. Would having 420mm rad in top (for example Alphacool NexXxoS UT60 420) make sense with 3x of stock fans? I'm torn between Primo, NZXT H440 and Enthoo Luxe.


The fact that you get almost $100 worth of fans with the $220 Enthoo Primo is one of the things that makes it so attractive. I have a 420 on top and 280 on bottom.....with just 5 stock fans yu can see the results are far more than satisfactory by reading the above. Note, with the first round of cases at least, the case fans do not have the rubber pads that the ones ya buy separately have. Phanteks will send them to ya if ya need them. The only issue is the pads make the fans thicker and you will get an uneven mounting if ya mix the two.


----------



## smoke420

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Don't give up. These kinds of issues are not the norm. For every one like these there are many received with no damage at all and the few that do have issues with front latch or whatever Phanteks customer service has sent immediate replacements, usually received in less than a week.


Thanks for the advice. I decided to keep the second damaged case I received from Newegg and get replacement parts through Phanteks. Stayed up until 6 am moving my rig to its new home and I love it. First let me say my camera is crap. An old cell phone is the best camera I have at the moment so the pics don't do it justice. Love the way this thing is designed. I have no 140mm based rads but could still use all the stock Phanteks fans. 3 in the top as push on my 360 and 2 in the front push on the 240. 14 fans on a single motherboard header you got to love it.

Let me know what you guys think. Also what is a good program to control fan speeds? speed fan is great but I can't get it to load at start-up.


----------



## Paxley

Hello Primos
I build in a 240 Nexxos 30 in the rightside and a 420 Nexxos 45 in the top.
I like the clean look. And the silence.


----------



## doyll

smoke420,
Looks great! Glad it's all working out for you.








I use motherboard fan control software. Set minimum temp/rpm and maximum temp/rpm.. Usually a couple adjustments to balance sound and performance and job done.

Paxley,
Nice build!
Really is nice how quiet they are.


----------



## doyll

FYI:
Phanteks USA is waiting for final word on ETA of white Enthoo Primo, Enthoo Luxe and Enthoo Pro. As soon as the know they will start taking pre-orders. Whoever finds out first post it up.

I'm thinking of adding Enthoo Luxe and Enthoo Pro to our club. We can still have separate owner membership or just grouo then all together.

Please let us know what you think.


----------



## Paxley

I use only 2 Noiseblocker 120 pull fans for the side Nexxos and three NB PK2 140 push in the top. No other fans, its realy quiet now.


----------



## doyll

So you are not using the stock Phanteks fans?


----------



## Paxley

I run befor with the front Phanteks but u dont need it for good temperatur.


----------



## Ouro

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> FYI:
> Phanteks USA is waiting for final word on ETA of white Enthoo Primo, Enthoo Luxe and Enthoo Pro. As soon as the know they will start taking pre-orders. Whoever finds out first post it up.
> 
> I'm thinking of adding Enthoo Luxe and Enthoo Pro to our club. We can still have separate owner membership or just grouo then all together.
> 
> Please let us know what you think.


How many fans are included in the Luxe? I only know of the front 200mm


----------



## doyll

I believe the Enthoo Luxe has 3 fans; front , top back & back top.
This video shows how it all works.


----------



## xCloudyHorizon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> FYI:
> Phanteks USA is waiting for final word on ETA of white Enthoo Primo, Enthoo Luxe and Enthoo Pro. As soon as the know they will start taking pre-orders. Whoever finds out first post it up.
> 
> I'm thinking of adding Enthoo Luxe and Enthoo Pro to our club. We can still have separate owner membership or just grouo then all together.
> 
> Please let us know what you think.


I've been bugging the Phanteks reps nearly every other week about when the pre-orders will be up since they were announced at CES.







At first it was the Luxe, but then the white Primo caught my eye and now I'm excited about building again.


----------



## Ouro

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> I believe the Enthoo Luxe has 3 fans; front , top back & back top.
> This video shows how it all works.


Looks like 1 200mm fan and 2 120mm


----------



## doyll

That\s my guess.


----------



## Fumferknuckle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ADragg*
> 
> I don't think it's too much white at all. It's a white case, so as much white as possible with a color of your choice as an accent is what looks best in my opinion. The white is the "canvas" or the neutral background, so anything you can get white and as little black as possible is best, I think. Just look at the very nice Caselabs builds people like Snef do. They go to great lengths to get every little thing white. Looks amazing when done right. Then your accent color really pops and highlights whatever is in that color (such as coolant, ram, mobo accents, sleeving, etc.).
> 
> I would definitely go with the stock 140 fans and don't worry too much about the radiator thickness. A triple rad on top and a dual on bottom is PLENTY even if they're both super slim radiators. Since they're plenty enough to give redundancy even with multiple graphics cards setups, then it only makes sense to go for a silent build, since using loud, fast fan speeds isn't going to yield you much gains anyway. You might drop a few degrees but the temp are already going to be so low that there's no point. It's not like you're going to get higher overclocks from it since you're already going to be well below the temperatures where you're not limited by temperature to go for higher overclocks anyway. That's why I say don't worry about the rad thickness, because if you do go for a silent build with lower fan speeds, then thin rads actually perform better because they're optimized for low fan speeds. At 600rpm, you'll get better temps with a 30mm thick rad than an 80mm Monsta in most cases. I personally think the Monsta looks too thick but if you do like the look, that would be the one reason to go for it. You're only going to get a noticeable temperature improvement with a thick rad if you crank the fan speed up and even then it will be slight.
> 
> I have a 45mm thick in the roof and 60mm in bottoms and that's only because I thought they looked cool. My tastes have now changed to where I think thin rads in push pull look better, but I do still think a thick rad like the 60mm looks really good in the bottom position of the Enthoo, since it has that tall wall next to it anyway. It's not getting me any better temps than a 30mm thick at low-mid fan speeds, though (in fact, maybe poorer temps). In my upcoming build, I'm using all 30mm thick rads since I prefer quiet performance and the look of push pull. Push pull also isn't going to help much for performance, but again, I think it looks cool and it keeps the positive pressure inside the case up to help prevent dirt and aid in passive exhaust, which is why I prefer to set all fans except for maybe the rear one as intakes on most cases. I'd even set every single fan as intake depending on the case, as long as it had enough ventilation for passive exhaust.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> For what you are putting in it, the 420 + 280 will do the following with twin 780s (+25% OC) and 4770k @ 4.6Ghz:
> 
> Delta T of 8.4C with (5) fans in Push @ 1200 rpm blowing air into the case, case raised an inch and filters / grilles on top and bottom removed
> Delta T of 12.2C with (5) fans in Push @ 850 rpm blowing air into the case, case on desk all filters / grilles on top and bottom in place.
> 
> Using the M6F, the 45mm works .... as in my previous post, 60mm is workable but it blocks numerous features access points on the M6F.
> 
> AFAIK, the White case has same fans w/ same blue LED,
> 
> Yes, the SP140s are great fans, best performing 140s I have seen ...... and the new 140s dominated the 120s in air cooler testing over at SPCR.....only seen 1 test on rads but it did confirm the performance carries over to rads. ELoop and Scythe have new 140s coming out .... I expect this new class of fans will prove out to rule the roost at low to moderate speeds ..... at some point (1800+), logic dictates the blade flex will come into play which would favor the smaller 120s but the Phanteks blades are quite stiff and at their speed, even lighter blades wouldn't have a flex issue.
> 
> I do like the Reeven, but not for fan control..... I just use it for temp display. the Phanteks PCB is a far better means of control via Asus FanXpert2
> I'm not a fan or bay res's ... seen enuff posts with leaks to scare me away but assuming those issues are completely resolved, they do vibrate and access is easier with tubes.....the best is the Aqualis but it it's wide and won't fit on res bracket w/ 10.5" cards ..... same w/ the Photon. With those eliminated, i went with the EK which also comes in white to match ya intentions on case and rads. The Phanteks res bracket is predrilled for the EK-250
> 
> As far as the white ..... I went with the white EK res to break up the wall of black.....I was tempted to do the rads in white but the cost premium was a bit much....and the finish isn't one of alphacools strong points I considered painting it white myself.....in the end I left it black.
> 
> As for that EK water block, it's the long version so in SLI at least, the bottom one ion slot 5 will hit the res bracket. What is the length of your chosen card ?
> 
> EK GFX water blocks rule the roost with regard to VRM and RAM temps and by huge margins.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The rads will have no effect on SLI but yes, rads thicker than 45mm on the top can get in the way of access to cables and features tho actual interference (i.e. hitting a heat sink) is something I haven't actually seen. A 420 on top and a 280 on a bottom gives me 12.2C delta T with Phanteks fans at 850 rpm and all filters / grilles in place.....it also offers a lot of physical advantages with regard to flexibility as outlined a few pages back. With fans at 1200 rpm and filter's / grilles removed, Delta T drops to 8.4C .... that's all w/ 4770k at 4.6GHz and twin 780s at 25% OC and just 5 fans in push.
> 
> 60mm Res's work in SLI w/ card lengths up to 10.6" using standard mounting holes and EK "short blocks" ... you can see clearances in pics above.
> 
> A push / pull XT45 (222 watts) blows away a UT60 (188 watts) in push or pull. Those numbers are based upon 360 rads tested on Martinsliquidlab site. Obviously larger rads will provide more cooling but the proportions wud remain same.
> 
> And no 560 not possible.
> Perhaps a pic will help
> 
> .


Awesome! I am really thinking about doing a pimped out, completely white (almost completely) build now. Snef's builds are just.. wow. So inspiring! I really love the white corner tubing pieces he used in some of his builds. It helped make it look a lot better. I do agree that a 420 and a 280 would probably be overkill as is but if I get one of those white 420 rads I feel obligated to get another just for posterity.







Looking at Snef's Purple Chimera build, it seems he used acrylic tubing (I'm assuming). It looks rigid and not like regular "bendy" tubing. I really like that look. That's what also makes that build you included Jack look so epic. Can you guys give me a run down of that stuff? I have heard of tubing where you heat it with something like a blow torch to then bend it. That's what that tubing looks like in Snef's pictures and Jack's included picture.
Long bibble babble below about part colors..
How do you think white tubing (whether it be regular Primo Chill Flex tubing or more rigid stuff) and white corner pieces like the ones in my included picture would look like?

I am having a tough time picturing all this in my head. The Formula in the back of the White Enthoo Primo, with two big graphics cards (780's) sitting in the PCI slots, dual 420 White Editon Alphacool rads with Phantek's fans mounted on them while white tubing runs to and from every component, including a big EK White res to the side of the GPU's and white tubing corner pieces for aesthetics. It sounds cool all typed out, but I feel like it may not have enough contrast, and too much white. I may be over thinking it, but I want to be sure I will like it once it's all together. I was thinking about how it may be better to get that black version of that Primo, and have the white rads and tubing for contrast. And then the Phanteks fans would also help with some more contrast because the exterior part of the fan is black, while the blades are white. So it would be in push/pull: Black(fan)-White(rad)-Black/White(fan) and white tubing running from that rad to the CPU block or whatever. Hmm.. Maybe it would be black Primo, white rads, black corner tube pieces, white tubing, black/white fans, and the black/red motherboard in the background. And assuming I go with the XSPC gpu blocks, black graphics cards with blue LEDs to match the case.








Here's another shot of Snef's Purple Chimera.

His build just works so well, and I feel because he has a LOT of contrast. Like his liquid is colored, so it really makes the white pop, and the same with the purple. I feel like having white tubing, and white connectors, and white rads, a white res, a white case, and white fans would be too much white and not enough black, or red for that matter. The red really isn't a big deal, I thought of it as an "offset" color to be something that catches your eye if you spot it inside the case. I am going to have to think about the colors a bit more and asks some of my friends what they think would look best. I am totally open to suggestions from any other forum participants though








So, a few more questions, besides the cool looking tubing. Jack, do you really think the EK water blocks are better than the XSPC one? I watched the video you linked, and besides the VRM temperatures, the XSPC block actually tied it if not beat it. Plus, it seems I can't really rely on those temps too much. In the video, the guy was testing only Titans (or at least that's how he was making it seem) and not on 780s. I feel the temps for VRM for, say the EVGA Super Clocked 780 would be different, if not better. I'm no tech guru or whatever, but it seems kinda one sided. I do enjoy the look of both blocks, though the EK would probably look better if I was using colored liquid (although you wouldn't really see it lol).
Oh, and what did you mean when you were talking deltas? I got confused when you mentioned removing dust filters/grilles. Can you explain what you mean some more?
Also, I got a bit lost when you started talking about graphics card lengths and the reservoirs that could or could not fit with them. I will be using 2 way SLI 780 Super Clocked cards by EVGA. In the picture you showed me with the red scheme, it looks like that res fits nicely behind/beside those gpus. I really don't know much about reservoirs so you will have to excuse my incompetence there.








On the topic of having a UT60 in the top.. eh. I don't know of really anything (off the top of my head) that would be blocked at the top of the board. Even doing push/pull, I can't really think of it getting in the way of anything I'd be using. And sorta related to this, I heard using the on-board watercooling "ports" on the Formula is a bad idea. That it doesn't help temperatures, it's pointless to cool your motherboard by liquid cooling means, and that it even restricts your flow.
One last thing I just thought of: Has anyone had experience with the sound on the Formula? It's suppose to be good. Like really good. Supporting 600 ohms and lots of other things. I'm asking because my plan is to get a pair of Beyerdynamic DT990's and if I have to, get something like the Objective 2. A little off topic though.
Sorry for making a long post again. I have a bad habit of doing that. Thanks again for the forums help and support!


----------



## b4db0y

Does this case fit a UT60 480mm with a single set of fans on the top radiator mount?


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smoke420*
> 
> Thanks for the advice. I decided to keep the second damaged case I received from Newegg and get replacement parts through Phanteks. Love the way this thing is designed. I have no 140mm based rads but could still use all the stock Phanteks fans. 3 in the top as push on my 360 and 2 in the front push on the 240. 14 fans on a single motherboard header you got to love it.
> 
> Let me know what you guys think. Also what is a good program to control fan speeds? speed fan is great but I can't get it to load at start-up.


I have had great success getting parts I asked for and even bonus parts I didn't ask for from Phanteks and I agree that the design is phenomenal.

As for the 14 fans on a single header ? The Phanteks PCB will handle 11 if you plug the fans into the PCB and the lead from the PCB to a MoBo header ..... you should be using the 12V power feed to the PCB if you are doing this but that will eliminate any voltage control from the MoBo chassis headers. If however you use a PWM header (CPU-1 or CPU-2) you should be fine. I would not recommend more than 7 Phanteks fans on the PCB w/o using the 12V PSU cable to t e PCB though I have to admit to running 8 at present.....otherwise the amp draw on ya MoBo header could be a bit more than it can handle.

I'm using Asus FanXpert2 to control fan speeds; it has far more flexibility than BIOS control and it tines itself to each individual header. SpeedFan doesn't load on my system either.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fumferknuckle*
> 
> I do agree that a 420 and a 280 would probably be overkill as is but if I get one of those white 420 rads I feel obligated to get another just for posterity.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Looking at Snef's Purple Chimera build, it seems he used acrylic tubing (I'm assuming). It looks rigid and not like regular "bendy" tubing. I really like that look. That's what also makes that build you included Jack look so epic. Can you guys give me a run down of that stuff? I have heard of tubing where you heat it with something like a blow torch to then bend it. That's what that tubing looks like in Snef's pictures and Jack's included picture.


If I do another I will use 280 + 420 in white .... I didn't do any bending ..... My firm designs wastewater treatment plants and having this thing sitting on my desk, when clients come in, I wanted it to be a representation of what my firm does. So I was going for an "industrial plant" look with the fittings much as we see in the plants we build. I have taken it apart twice already to "fix" things where a tube was off vertical or horizontal by a mm or half of one and with the new position of the case on my desk, looking from another angle, I found another tube that "offends my sensibilities"







.... so will be fixing that one when I take it down for 1 year maintenance and inspection....prolly gotta shave a half mm off and it will be puuuurrrfect.

From a build standpoint, that's the main thing to my mind between bent tubing and fittings ..... if you have a multiple bend on a tube that is 1mm off, it can be very hard to fix; straight tubing and fittings is ez.... pull the tube, shave a mm put it back..... only working in a single dimension so anything is easily fixable.

I like both methods aesthetically. Bent builds look a bit more artistic / flashy, but if I had to pick just one, I'd do fittings as I prefer the more sedate look. My son is planning post college graduation build and we are planning on bent acrylic for that one. Ya don't use a blow torch, just a heat gun.....essentially a very robust hair dryer







. For all you ever wanted to know about acrylic pipe bending, look here:

http://www.overclock.net/t/1388300/acrylic-pipebending-101

Quote:


> I am having a tough time picturing all this in my head. The Formula in the back of the White Enthoo Primo, with two big graphics cards (780's) sitting in the PCI slots, dual 420 White Editon Alphacool rads with Phantek's fans mounted on them while white tubing runs to and from every component, including a big EK White res to the side of the GPU's and white tubing corner pieces for aesthetics. It sounds cool all typed out, but I feel like it may not have enough contrast, and too much white. I may be over thinking it, but I want to be sure I will like it once it's all together. I was thinking about how it may be better to get that black version of that Primo, and have the white rads and tubing for contrast. And then the Phanteks fans would also help with some more contrast because the exterior part of the fan is black, while the blades are white. So it would be in push/pull: Black(fan)-White(rad)-Black/White(fan) and white tubing running from that rad to the CPU block or whatever. Hmm.. Maybe it would be black Primo, white rads, black corner tube pieces, white tubing, black/white fans, and the black/red motherboard in the background. And assuming I go with the XSPC gpu blocks, black graphics cards with blue LEDs to match the case


I hear ya..... remember the GFX card backplates are black..... CPU block Id recommend clear plexi so ya can see inside. To get an idea of the Formula with white rads / black case, ya can use my pic and use Paint program to block out the rads in white. Again, that's exactly what i was going to do but then it seemed with that much white, it's no longer a contrast or highlight. Id use white rads with a white case and black rads with a black..... if ya have 5 fans in pull with white blades on top of the rads and all that other white in a black case seems "too much".

Quote:


> Jack, do you really think the EK water blocks are better than the XSPC one? I watched the video you linked, and besides the VRM temperatures, the XSPC block actually tied it if not beat it. Plus, it seems I can't really rely on those temps too much. In the video, the guy was testing only Titans (or at least that's how he was making it seem) and not on 780s.


Exact same block for reference cards ..... of course not always true with those offerings with non-reference PCBs. See EK's description.
Quote:


> EK-FC780 GTX Ti is a high performance full-cover water block for nVidia reference (NVA-P2083) design GeForce GTX 780 Ti, GTX 780 as well as GTX Titan series graphics cards.


As for the XSPC versus EK comparison, I didn't see any ties. The differences in the GPU temps were small with < 2C separating.....but on the VRM and RAM it's huge..

EK VRAM temps is 10.2C, XSPC is 8.6 C (See 17:00 mark) .... that's 1.6C, advantage XSPC
EK VRAM temps is 22C, XSPC is 28C (See 21;50 mark) .... that's 6C, advantage EK
EK VRM temps is 33C, XSPC is 46C (see 23:00 mark) ..... that's 13C, advantage EK

Quote:


> I feel the temps for VRM for, say the EVGA Super Clocked 780 would be different, if not better. I'm no tech guru or whatever, but it seems kinda one sided. I do enjoy the look of both blocks, though the EK would probably look better if I was using colored liquid (although you wouldn't really see it lol).
> Oh, and what did you mean when you were talking deltas? I got confused when you mentioned removing dust filters/grilles. Can you explain what you mean some more?


The EVGA SC series is a reference board and is the only card I ever consistently recommend against. The SC series cards are the only factory OC'd cards on the market from the major vendors that uses a "stock" PCB and reference VRM. It does have a half way decent cooler which you are going to promptly remove before installing your WB. So you pay a premium for a cooler .... the only thing on the SC series that is not "stock" ..... so why pay a premium when the only thing you got for paying extra, you are going to put in a box or toss out ? And then you're gimped by a substantially weaker VRM whereas all the competition's same price cards have VRMs are substantially beefier.

Delta T's represent the delta or change in temperature between two things you are interested in. For example the system delta T is the difference between the ambient air and the coolant.... it is in effect the single relevant performance criteria as yo how well your rads are doing their job. Block Delta T is the temp difference between the CPU or GPU and the temp of the coolant.

As for the fans, performance is gimped by any resistance placed in its way .... the grille above your fans provide air resistance / friction so that reduces air flow.... air filters provide air resistance / friction so that reduces air flow. So if the performance of your fans is reduced by things that inhibit its performance, the performance of your radiators are similarly influenced. The filters, grilles and limited air flow area on the bottom ..... these all work to reduce performance by about 33%.

Quote:


> Also, I got a bit lost when you started talking about graphics card lengths and the reservoirs that could or could not fit with them. I will be using 2 way SLI 780 Super Clocked cards by EVGA. In the picture you showed me with the red scheme, it looks like that res fits nicely behind/beside those gpus. I really don't know much about reservoirs so you will have to excuse my incompetence there.


Again, I strongly advise against the SC line... The EVGA Classified, great card .... EVGA SC ? again, why pay extra for a stock / reference design with a decent air cooler that you are going to remove.

http://uk.hardware.info/reviews/4639/10/nvidia-geforce-gtx-780-asus-vs-evga-vs-inno3d-vs-msi-conclusion
Quote:


> The card that impressed us the most, however, was the ASUS GTX780-DC2OC-3GD5. The new cooler works like charm, and its performance is clearly reflected by the test results. The card also manages to stay very quiet and offers the best overclocking potential thanks to the new cooler. ASUS earns the Gold Award for its card.


I'd rank the factory overclocked 780 cards from the "Big 4" as follows Asus DCII, MSI N gaming Series, Gigabyte Windforce and EVGA SC last. The specialty cards .... EVGA Classified and MSI Lightning are the premium cards but won't fit in the Enthoo.

As for the fit .... a 60mm diameter res (i.e. EK Res-3) mounted on the Enthoo res bracket in pre-drilled holes, as I recall, leaves about 2-3mm of space between res and edge of card. In SLI, in MoBos which use the No. 2 and No. 5 slots (i.e. The Maximus VI Formula), the lower card will hit the res bracket if ....

a) The card is more than 10.5" long
b) You use any of the longer EQ water blocks

EK makes 3 "full cover" water blocks

-Acetal one is 10.5" long
-Plexi one with the circles on it is 10.5" long
-"Clean" Plexi one (no circles) is about 9.5" long.

The res bracket, after you remove the plastic cover has a cut out..... it's thinner in the middle than top and bottom. Where the bracket transitions from the thinner to the wider portion, the water block will hit the bracket. Using my auspicious industry credentials ....







.... I manged to get a pre-release 780 Ti which was 10.5" long. You can see in the pics below how it hits the bracket





Here's an actual 780 installed. In this pic you can see the PCB extending over the slanted part of the res bracket. If the block ran full length underneath that PCB (it stops about an inch short), installation of the 2nd card would have been impossible with the res bracket in place.



Quote:


> On the topic of having a UT60 in the top.. eh. I don't know of really anything (off the top of my head) that would be blocked at the top of the board. Even doing push/pull, I can't really think of it getting in the way of anything I'd be using. And sorta related to this, I heard using the on-board watercooling "ports" on the Formula is a bad idea. That it doesn't help temperatures, it's pointless to cool your motherboard by liquid cooling means, and that it even restricts your flow.


I'll simply say I disagree completely with what you read about the MoBo block. While I might question whether it's worth $100 to replace it with the EK model, to my mind, if it's alreday there and paid for, I can fathom no reason not to take advantage of it.

When I started the build, it was only the 8 pin EPS cable and MPCIE combo card access that concerned me .... see ModZoo review also on this topic ..... but there were other things I didn't think of immediately that later caused concern. In summary:

1. The 60mm rad in P/P will block access to the MPCIE combo card. If you install it and never need access, no problem.... but if you do, will have to remove at least the fans.

2. The 60mm rad in P/P will block access to the 8 pin EPS cable....If you have pre-sleeved your cable and never need to access it, no problem.... but if you wanna get it built and then come back later w/ a sleeved cable, again, at least fans gotta go.

3. The 60mm rad in P/P will make getting the MoBo block tube in a bit more difficult. As far as not using it, the same argument can be used for your GFX card waterblocks..... kinda pointless when ya OCs are controlled by voltage and not temperatures. With a custom VRM as ya get with the Asus, Gigabyte and MSI factory OCd cards, you can and will get similar performance with air cooling (I have). When you selected ya GFX card block, you picked one that covers the GFX card VRM no ?

I have seen this argument made, most by people speculating what would happen "if" they connected the block and "if" they even had the MoBo. And it does help temperatures very much....right now mine's at 24C .... the three VRMs are at 22, 25 and 27C. Under stress testing, they climb into the low 30s. If you actually look at the water block cross section you can see quite clearly that the flow path is about the same area as an equivalent section of tubing.....no significant restriction whatsoever....I have about 1.75 gpm running thru my loop under normal operation....2.25 if I kick pump up to full speed. The only thing I don't see worthwhile cooling is DDR3-RAM, and that's cause I don't bother trying to go over rated speeds.....or push DRAM voltage up to 1.9 / 2.0 levels.

4. The 60mm rad in P/P completely blocks access to the voltage monitoring points.

5. The 60mm rad in P/P will block view if the MemOK LED, thereby eliminating a useful diagnostic tool.

6. The 60mm rad in P/P will block the view of the diagnostic LCD display, again eliminating use of a critically important diagnostic tool.

7. The 60mm rad in P/P will, if ya gonna use a 250mm res and want to be able to bleed it with a valve on the multiport top, the BP valve will hit the fan.

8. The 60mm rad in P/P will eliminate use of the top 5.25 bay which w/ a 45mm rad allows ya to fit a fan controller in there.

The 1st four I could live with if I didn't know I would shortly need access to those areas for planned mods not far down the road. The other four were deal killers as giving these up brought me nothing in return..... In other words, such a consideration should depend on what ya get versus what ya giving up.... I mean if I bend at the waist across the desk and lay my head sideways at desk level I could still see the diagnostic LCD but is that effort worth it for what I get in return ? I certainly might have considered a 60mm rad if it gave me something.

But I normally run at 450 rpm .... 850 rpm under stress testing and, in this rpm range, thinner rads actually outperform thicker rads. At 850 rpm, the UT60 and XT45 produce the exact same amount of cooling (156 watts each for the 360 based upon Martins published test data (projected 212 watts each for the 420). In fact, it's only at 1,000 rpm and above that the ST30 (181 watts ) loses its performance advantage over the XT45 (181 watts) and UT60 (183 watts).
Quote:


> One last thing I just thought of: Has anyone had experience with the sound on the Formula? It's suppose to be good. Like really good. Supporting 600 ohms and lots of other things. I'm asking because my plan is to get a pair of Beyerdynamic DT990's and if I have to, get something like the Objective 2. A little off topic though.


Sound is great....it's the equivalent of the $90 Xonar DX

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16829132006


----------



## smoke420

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> I have had great success getting parts I asked for and even bonus parts I didn't ask for from Phanteks and I agree that the design is phenomenal.
> 
> As for the 14 fans on a single header ? The Phanteks PCB will handle 11 if you plug the fans into the PCB and the lead from the PCB to a MoBo header ..... you should be using the 12V power feed to the PCB if you are doing this but that will eliminate any voltage control form the MoBo chassis headers. If however you use a PWM header (CPU-1 or CPU-2) you should be fine.
> 
> I'm using Asus FanXpert2 to control fan speeds; it has far more flexibility than ten BIOS control and it tines itself to each individual header. SpeedFan doesn't load on my system either.


I connected a 3 pwm fans to a pwm splitter, then 11 none pwm fans to the fan hub. Finally I combined the pwm splitter and hub together with a four pin splitter and connected it to the motherboard cpu header. I removed the pin for rpm readout from the pwm splitter as well. Both the pwm splitter and the hub get 12V directly from the PSU. So 14 fans controlled by the cpu header.


----------



## Ash2097

Thinking of going for this case, one question though. I will be using 6 Gentle Typhoon 3-pin fans in this on radiators, plus another one or two just in the case. In my current case I have them connected up to a Lamptron FC5 V2 controller but I don't think the dials will clear the door covering the 5.25" bays.

Would I be able to manually control their speed with the built in controller?


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smoke420*
> 
> I connected a 3 pwm fans to a pwm splitter, then 11 none pwm fans to the fan hub. Finally I combined the pwm splitter and hub together with a four pin splitter and connected it to the motherboard cpu header. I removed the pin for rpm readout from the pwm splitter as well. Both the pwm splitter and the hub get 12V directly from the PSU. So 14 fans controlled by the cpu header.


That works.... just wanted to make sure.....
Quote:


> you should be using the 12V power feed to the PCB if you are doing this (and you are) but that will eliminate any voltage control form the MoBo chassis headers (ypu are using PWM). If however you use a PWM header (CPU-1 or CPU-2) *you should be fine*.


Questions....

1. Anything controlling pump speed ?

2. Why did ya clip the rpm indicator ?


----------



## smoke420

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> That works.... just wanted to make sure.....
> Questions....
> 
> 1. Anything controlling pump speed ?
> 
> 2. Why did ya clip the rpm indicator ?


1. I am running x2 ddc 350's with an EK dual pumptop. They do not have pwm control but don't run as fast as 35x's so its not needed.

2.If you have more than one rpm indicator plugged into the same header it wont display correctly. That's why you cant split channel one on the included fan hub.


----------



## Jared485

SO i have the fans in my case hooked up to the fan controller, but i can tell my motherboard isnt putting off enough wattage to control them. half are barely spinning and at times they almost stop and are very inconsistent. So i went to plug a molex into it and holy ****, sparks and smoke went up... i disconnected my molex and the controller still works ike ****,, and my rooms smells. but what the hell did i do wrong???


----------



## Fumferknuckle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> If I do another I will use 280 + 420 in white .... I didn't do any bending ..... My firm designs wastewater treatment plants and having this thing sitting on my desk, when clients come in, I wanted it to be a representation of what my firm does. So I was going for an "industrial plant" look with the fittings much as we see in the plants we build. I have taken it apart twice already to "fix" things where a tube was off vertical or horizontal by a mm or half of one and with the new position of the case on my desk, looking from another angle, I found another tube that "offends my sensibilities"
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .... so will be fixing that one when I take it down for 1 year maintenance and inspection....prolly gotta shave a half mm off and it will be puuuurrrfect.
> 
> From a build standpoint, that's the main thing to my mind between bent tubing and fittings ..... if you have a multiple bend on a tube that is 1mm off, it can be very hard to fix; straight tubing and fittings is ez.... pull the tube, shave a mm put it back..... only working in a single dimension so anything is easily fixable.
> 
> I like both methods aesthetically. Bent builds look a bit more artistic / flashy, but if I had to pick just one, I'd do fittings as I prefer the more sedate look. My son is planning post college graduation build and we are planning on bent acrylic for that one. Ya don't use a blow torch, just a heat gun.....essentially a very robust hair dryer
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . For all you ever wanted to know about acrylic pipe bending, look here:
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1388300/acrylic-pipebending-101
> I hear ya..... remember the GFX card backplates are black..... CPU block Id recommend clear plexi so ya can see inside. To get an idea of the Formula with white rads / black case, ya can use my pic and use Paint program to block out the rads in white. Again, that's exactly what i was going to do but then it seemed with that much white, it's no longer a contrast or highlight. Id use white rads with a white case and black rads with a black..... if ya have 5 fans in pull with white blades on top of the rads and all that other white in a black case seems "too much".
> Exact same block for reference cards ..... of course not always true with those offerings with non-reference PCBs. See EK's description.
> As for the XSPC versus EK comparison, I didn't see any ties. The differences in the GPU temps were small with < 2C separating.....but on the VRM and RAM it's huge..
> 
> EK VRAM temps is 10.2C, XSPC is 8.6 C (See 17:00 mark) .... that's 1.6C, advantage XSPC
> EK VRAM temps is 22C, XSPC is 28C (See 21;50 mark) .... that's 6C, advantage EK
> EK VRM temps is 33C, XSPC is 46C (see 23:00 mark) ..... that's 13C, advantage EK
> The EVGA SC series is a reference board and is the only card I ever consistently recommend against. The SC series cards are the only factory OC'd cards on the market from the major vendors that uses a "stock" PCB and reference VRM. It does have a half way decent cooler which you are going to promptly remove before installing your WB. So you pay a premium for a cooler .... the only thing on the SC series that is not "stock" ..... so why pay a premium when the only thing you got for paying extra, you are going to put in a box or toss out ? And then you're gimped by a substantially weaker VRM whereas all the competition's same price cards have VRMs are substantially beefier.
> 
> Delta T's represent the delta or change in temperature between two things you are interested in. For example the system delta T is the difference between the ambient air and the coolant.... it is in effect the single relevant performance criteria as yo how well your rads are doing their job. Block Delta T is the temp difference between the CPU or GPU and the temp of the coolant.
> 
> As for the fans, performance is gimped by any resistance placed in its way .... the grille above your fans provide air resistance / friction so that reduces air flow.... air filters provide air resistance / friction so that reduces air flow. So if the performance of your fans is reduced by things that inhibit its performance, the performance of your radiators are similarly influenced. The filters, grilles and limited air flow area on the bottom ..... these all work to reduce performance by about 33%.
> Again, I strongly advise against the SC line... The EVGA Classified, great card .... EVGA SC ? again, why pay extra for a stock / reference design with a decent air cooler that you are going to remove.
> 
> http://uk.hardware.info/reviews/4639/10/nvidia-geforce-gtx-780-asus-vs-evga-vs-inno3d-vs-msi-conclusion
> I'd rank the factory overclocked 780 cards from the "Big 4" as follows Asus DCII, MSI N gaming Series, Gigabyte Windforce and EVGA SC last. The specialty cards .... EVGA Classified and MSI Lightning are the premium cards but won't fit in the Enthoo.
> 
> As for the fit .... a 60mm diameter res (i.e. EK Res-3) mounted on the Enthoo res bracket in pre-drilled holes, as I recall, leaves about 2-3mm of space between res and edge of card. In SLI, in MoBos which use the No. 2 and No. 5 slots (i.e. The Maximus VI Formula), the lower card will hit the res bracket if ....
> 
> a) The card is more than 10.5" long
> b) You use any of the longer EQ water blocks
> 
> EK makes 3 "full cover" water blocks
> 
> -Acetal one is 10.5" long
> -Plexi one with the circles on it is 10.5" long
> -"Clean" Plexi one (no circles) is about 9.5" long.
> 
> The res bracket, after you remove the plastic cover has a cut out..... it's thinner in the middle than top and bottom. Where the bracket transitions from the thinner to the wider portion, the water block will hit the bracket. Using my auspicious industry credentials ....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .... I manged to get a pre-release 780 Ti which was 10.5" long. You can see in the pics below how it hits the bracket
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's an actual 780 installed. In this pic you can see the PCB extending over the slanted part of the res bracket. If the block ran full length underneath that PCB (it stops about an inch short), installation of the 2nd card would have been impossible with the res bracket in place.
> 
> 
> I'll simply say I disagree completely with what you read about the MoBo block. While I might question whether it's worth $100 to replace it with the EK model, to my mind, if it's alreday there and paid for, I can fathom no reason not to take advantage of it.
> 
> When I started the build, it was only the 8 pin EPS cable and MPCIE combo card access that concerned me .... see ModZoo review also on this topic ..... but there were other things I didn't think of immediately that later caused concern. In summary:
> 
> 1. The 60mm rad in P/P will block access to the MPCIE combo card. If you install it and never need access, no problem.... but if you do, will have to remove at least the fans.
> 
> 2. The 60mm rad in P/P will block access to the 8 pin EPS cable....If you have pre-sleeved your cable and never need to access it, no problem.... but if you wanna get it built and then come back later w/ a sleeved cable, again, at least fans gotta go.
> 
> 3. The 60mm rad in P/P will make getting the MoBo block tube in a bit more difficult. As far as not using it, the same argument can be used for your GFX card waterblocks..... kinda pointless when ya OCs are controlled by voltage and not temperatures. With a custom VRM as ya get with the Asus, Gigabyte and MSI factory OCd cards, you can and will get similar performance with air cooling (I have). When you selected ya GFX card block, you picked one that covers the GFX card VRM no ?
> 
> I have seen this argument made, most by people speculating what would happen "if" they connected the block and "if" they even had the MoBo. And it does help temperatures very much....right now mine's at 24C .... the three VRMs are at 22, 25 and 27C. Under stress testing, they climb into the low 30s. If you actually look at the water block cross section you can see quite clearly that the flow path is about the same area as an equivalent section of tubing.....no significant restriction whatsoever....I have about 1.75 gpm running thru my loop under normal operation....2.25 if I kick pump up to full speed. The only thing I don't see worthwhile cooling is DDR3-RAM, and that's cause I don't bother trying to go over rated speeds.....or push DRAM voltage up to 1.9 / 2.0 levels.
> 
> 4. The 60mm rad in P/P completely blocks access to the voltage monitoring points.
> 
> 5. The 60mm rad in P/P will block view if the MemOK LED, thereby eliminating a useful diagnostic tool.
> 
> 6. The 60mm rad in P/P will block the view of the diagnostic LCD display, again eliminating use of a critically important diagnostic tool.
> 
> 7. The 60mm rad in P/P will, if ya gonna use a 250mm res and want to be able to bleed it with a valve on the multiport top, the BP valve will hit the fan.
> 
> 8. The 60mm rad in P/P will eliminate use of the top 5.25 bay which w/ a 45mm rad allows ya to fit a fan controller in there.
> 
> The 1st four I could live with if I didn't know I would shortly need access to those areas for planned mods not far down the road. The other four were deal killers as giving these up brought me nothing in return..... In other words, such a consideration should depend on what ya get versus what ya giving up.... I mean if I bend at the waist across the desk and lay my head sideways at desk level I could still see the diagnostic LCD but is that effort worth it for what I get in return ? I certainly might have considered a 60mm rad if it gave me something.
> 
> But I normally run at 450 rpm .... 850 rpm under stress testing and, in this rpm range, thinner rads actually outperform thicker rads. At 850 rpm, the UT60 and XT45 produce the exact same amount of cooling (156 watts each for the 360 based upon Martins published test data (projected 212 watts each for the 420). In fact, it's only at 1,000 rpm and above that the ST30 (181 watts ) loses its performance advantage over the XT45 (181 watts) and UT60 (183 watts).
> Sound is great....it's the equivalent of the $90 Xonar DX
> 
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16829132006


It's good to know the sound is good. Also, before I forget to ask, what are those round red things that are attached to the gpu pipes? I have never seen those before! They look cool though. Now, speaking of tubing, let's start there. I think I am going to do what you did in your build. Have straight pieces with use of corner pieces and such. Because I know nothing about acrylic tubing, and have yet to read that article you posted, I won't go crazy with questions until later.
I guess I will start with the graphics cards and work my way into reservoir questions. First, thank you for bringing that Asus card to my attention. It does seem to be the better buy (although that EVGA SC is the cheapest on PCPP). I don't know if I have mentioned this before, but I was originally going to go with 780ti SLI, but the extra 400+ and 5-15 frame difference wasn't worth it, to me. Most people agree that the Classified 780 is the best. But, I don't know if:
1. It two of them would fit WITH a res beside them.
2. If the Asus is a better buy.
3. Other stuff.
Mainly, what card should I get? I was planning on getting one of them to start, and in a while (maybe a couple months, basically when I buy a 1440p monitor) buy another one. Now I am kinda thinking about going ahead and getting them at the same time, especially if I am gonna be doing the more "difficult" and intricate tubing. Along with that, what water block should I get for it? I've done research in the past and people basically say get whatever looks best to you. But you won't ever really see it to be honest. Although looks are important, performance and compatibility are more of a concern. I can't tell what water blocks you are using, but they look good. Very good actually. Like that clear piece that surrounds it looks premium, and the SLI bridge doesn't look stupid. The SLI bridge on the XSPC one does, and that blue light is just a gimmick. I'm not a HUGE fan of LEDs, even though I have a Logitech G600 and want the new individually back lit Corsair keyboard. I honestly hate LEDs when I am watching stuff, and even on my mouse I turn the lights off unless I am playing a game. And if I wanted lights it wouldn't be hard to install them. Anyway, I feel the EK is probably better. I gotta ask though, why did you route your tubing the way you did? Most builds I have seen, people put a tube or a connector in between the cards.
Like this:

Or this:

One part of me likes this look a lot, then another likes what you did a lot. I think the above picture has a nice, clean look though. But I imagine cooling performance is probably limited, mostly because it looks like that kind of SLI bridge is more restricting. Although, it may be better for cooling, and easier with less tubing. Another question.. how in the hell is that thing mounted?? Also, I think I spy a EK GPU block, and it looks gooood. Oh, I just noticed that reservoir.. Hmm.. It actually looks pretty good, if a little crowded. Is your mounting options better there then it is beside the graphics cards?
Just thinking out of the blue here, but I imagine the acrylic tubing is "safer". With the "flex" tubing one of the precautions most people take is using compression fittings (which is what I was going to do) but with the acrylic it seems all the fittings have a very nice seal and hold on the tubing. Again, I don't know much about acrylic tubing, just throwing my thoughts out there.
So, you feel like most of your components (like rads, tubing and fans) should match your case color? If so, black case and black radiator or white case with white radiator. I was thinking in class today how the black case may be the better option. But looking at water cooling builds, almost EVERYONE is doing black cases, black radiators, and either green/blue/red tubing. This makes me want a white case and white rad combo even more just so I don't have a generic looking rig.
Anyway, I had thought of a clear CPU block, but it would probably be difficult to see inside with all the pipes in the way, and I have heard VERY good things about the Koolance-380I. Also, I haven't been able to find really any forum discussions or articles talking about the Formulas on-board water block. Do you know of any reviews that mention it or have knowledge on it? I don't know much about it. And I totally get what you mean on the top rad now. I will probably do a XT45. Although, I am still confused as why you aren't using P/P? Then for the bottom, probably a UT60. It makes sense down there, to me, because you have so much empty space. Although, it may not from a cooling stand point. I wanted to ask what I should do. You say you use your fans on 450rpm, which sounds absolutely insane. Like, wow. And you manage good temps. That has to be whisper quiet. I would probably go 850rpm, unless the performance didn't show (I don't see how it couldn't though), as I imagine that's very inaudible. So, please explain to me more about rad sizes, especially thinner ones, and what fan speeds to use. I still don't understand the reason for not P/P on the bottom either. It looks pretty cool with the blank rad look, but I am sure with fans it would look cool and probably provide better temps. And while I am asking radiator questions, I gotta ask. How would I go about painting rads? I wouldn't want to get paint in the screw holes or the fins, let alone the ports. Or get paint in areas I wouldn't want it. I mean, blue painters tape MAY work well, but I'm not convinced. And would I use spray paint? My neighbor has a paint gun that sprays paint so do note that. I won't be sitting in my basement spraying drips all over them or anything lol. And will I have to worry about it fading? Oh, and I will probably go 420/420 on both the bottom and top.
Now, hopefully I'm not repeating myself a bunch. I started typing this when I got home from school, then got a hair cut, then family came over.. And I really don't have enough time to reread all of my post ot make sure I'm not repeating because more family is coming very soon. What I wanted to ask about was reservoirs though. Which do you recommend? You managed to do SLI 780's with a res beside them. I like that look a lot, but if it isn't possible in certain configurations or it's simply better "above" the GPUs then that's fine. I just need to figure that out, as it controls my loop routing and what size GPU blocks I use. Also, you mentioned a few EK res'. Can you link me to them? I couldn't find them in the time I had to look, and the ones I did find were nothing like yours or were very different. And I don't like the look of that Primochill one I listed.
A few more 780 things. First, the Asus 780 has two different fans? Lol. I found that odd. Second, while looking around for more about that Asus 780, I stumbled upon the ROG Poseidon. I had completely forgot about that thing! I read a quick review on it, and to be honest, the frames weren't much better than a regular 780. BUT, it doesn't come pre-OCed. I do have to say I LOVEEEE the design. It looks so sleek and sexy. Plus, what a brilliant design!! The temps I seen were very good, and the fans are apparently veryy quiet. BUTTT, I can't find ANYTHING about it! Like, where do you buy the damn thing?? No forum posts about release dates, no news on it. Only reviews, but no where to buy it. I am very confused on that thing.
Also, have you thought about delidding your 4770k? I have read on it some, and it is suppose to drop temps by as much as 10 degrees celsius. Also making over clocking easier and better. Lot's of good things about it. Except it voids warranty and is dangerous to perform. But, I wanted to know your take.
By the way, when I seen that picture of the cardboard TI, I bursted out in laughter. Great stuff man.
Final question. What tubing and angles are you using?
That's all I can remember that I wanted to ask. This post was probably a bit messy and long. I'm sorry for that. But, as always, thanks for your great help!


----------



## Fumferknuckle

Someone should make a rig based on this card. So amazing.
http://uk.hardware.info/productinfo/187049/inno3d-geforce-gtx-780-ichill-herculez-x3-ultra-3gb#tabhotos

Or this one..
7https://www.google.com/search?q=hall+of+fame+780&espv=210&es_sm=122&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ei=tBIEU-u6OILb0wH7uoHAAw&ved=0CAsQ_AUoAw&biw=1920&bih=936


----------



## simsim44

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jared485*
> 
> SO i have the fans in my case hooked up to the fan controller, but i can tell my motherboard isnt putting off enough wattage to control them. half are barely spinning and at times they almost stop and are very inconsistent. So i went to plug a molex into it and holy ****, sparks and smoke went up... i disconnected my molex and the controller still works ike ****,, and my rooms smells. but what the hell did i do wrong???


at the risk of sounding like a jerk, molex connectors only go one way, there are one or two molex connectors that have tags on them and are specific use, the header from the mobo is 4 pin? PMW? Got pix? there can only be speculation as to what occurred. I would like to think with some investigating on your part you may find a burnt wire/s or a bad fan, and or something evident on the motherboard. which will lead you to what has occurred.


----------



## Jared485

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *simsim44*
> 
> at the risk of sounding like a jerk, molex connectors only go one way, there are one or two molex connectors that have tags on them and are specific use, the header from the mobo is 4 pin? PMW? Got pix? there can only be speculation as to what occurred. I would like to think with some investigating on your part you may find a burnt wire/s or a bad fan, and or something evident on the motherboard. which will lead you to what has occurred.


I know i put the molex on the way it goes, like you said they only go on one way. All the fans appear to be running and i found no burnt wires.. IM wondering if i just burnt out the molex connector. I havent yet tried to connect them again.. IM just wondering why this might have occured in the first place. I smoked and crackled pretty good for a couple seconds. but with no apparent damage... Also the motherboard has no signs of damage.

I have the case fan hub connected the the CPU 4 pin PWM fan connector on the motherboard. w/ no damage.

Should i just write it off as a close one or look until i find a problem...


----------



## simsim44

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jared485*
> 
> I know i put the molex on the way it goes, like you said they only go on one way. All the fans appear to be running and i found no burnt wires.. IM wondering if i just burnt out the molex connector. I havent yet tried to connect them again.. IM just wondering why this might have occured in the first place. I smoked and crackled pretty good for a couple seconds. but with no apparent damage... Also the motherboard has no signs of damage.
> 
> I have the case fan hub connected the the CPU 4 pin PWM fan connector on the motherboard. w/ no damage.
> 
> Should i just write it off as a close one or look until i find a problem...


Do you have another fan you can plug into the molex that cooked to see if there is a concern at the PSU? if that's fine and there is no evidence to a problem then I would just keep it in mind,


----------



## Jared485

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *simsim44*
> 
> Do you have another fan you can plug into the molex that cooked to see if there is a concern at the PSU? if that's fine and there is no evidence to a problem then I would just keep it in mind,


I dont have a spare fan but my friend does, ill have to ask him to borrow it tomorrow and try that. Ill let you know wht happens.. if anything. Thank you!


----------



## simsim44

No worries


----------



## Xithel

Hey yall. I just wanted to take a second to say thank you. This thread was very helpful during my recent build. Here is what you helped build =)

If you are interested, I posted a slide show of the build on my cheesy website: www.atxpwns.com


----------



## simsim44

we love pix....well I like them....


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jared485*
> 
> SO i have the fans in my case hooked up to the fan controller, but i can tell my motherboard isnt putting off enough wattage to control them. half are barely spinning and at times they almost stop and are very inconsistent. So i went to plug a molex into it and holy ****, sparks and smoke went up... i disconnected my molex and the controller still works ike ****,, and my rooms smells. but what the hell did i do wrong???


MoBo headers on enthusiasts level boards are typical rated for one amp or 12 watts ... some hi end boards are rated for two amps. The Phanteks fans are 0.14 amp and 1.8 watts input IIRC.

Not sure what went wrong, only result when I did it was the fans went to 100% speed as I had them fed from a MoBo (CHA_1) header rather than a CPU PWM header. best call Phanteks and ask.

Not sure about the "not enuff wattage to control them" statement tho.....if they are spinning, the MoBo is doing its job, hopefully ya don't have too many on there and won't blow the header. FanXpert2 should test the fans and once done you should be able to set up the appropriate profiles.


----------



## bond32

Just finished soldering in 4 orange led's in one of the phanteks fans. Looks pretty good, although it doesn't seem near as bright. I have 3 more fans to do. I'll post pictures later tonight.

It's good practice for me to solder too. I'm not very good at it and it sure takes a lot of patience.


----------



## Jared485

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> MoBo headers on enthusiasts level boards are typical rated for one amp or 12 watts ... some hi end boards are rated for two amps. The Phanteks fans are 0.14 amp and 1.8 watts input IIRC.
> 
> Not sure what went wrong, only result when I did it was the fans went to 100% speed as I had them fed from a MoBo (CHA_1) header rather than a CPU PWM header. best call Phanteks and ask.
> 
> Not sure about the "not enuff wattage to control them" statement tho.....if they are spinning, the MoBo is doing its job, hopefully ya don't have too many on there and won't blow the header. FanXpert2 should test the fans and once done you should be able to set up the appropriate profiles.


I have the 5 fans plus 2 more sp120 fans. at 100% they take off and go good but below 50 percent they randomly stop and slow down. 3 fans will be going good and 4 will be going slow then all of the sudden 2 of the fast fans slow down and 2 of the slower ones speed up. It looks like the wattage is being thrown from fan to fan or something i dont know. Im gettting a fan controller in the mail soon i ordered it along with some extensions and i know thatll fix it but in the mean time its just no working right. I have the profiles and everything set and it says the fans are spinning at 1300+- rpm but sopme are barely spinning while others appear to be going 1300+- rpm


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> Just finished soldering in 4 orange led's in one of the phanteks fans. Looks pretty good, although it doesn't seem near as bright. I have 3 more fans to do. I'll post pictures later tonight.
> 
> It's good practice for me to solder too. I'm not very good at it and it sure takes a lot of patience.


Look forward to seeing pics.


----------



## simsim44

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Look forward to seeing pics.


I second the pix


----------



## Roxycon

review from pcjunkie


----------



## simsim44

I couldn't even finish watching it, seems like a nice guy just doesn't have any product knowledge


----------



## Roxycon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *simsim44*
> 
> I couldn't even finish watching it, seems like a nice guy just doesn't have any product knowledge


He isnt the first reviwer to not do their homework properly on the enthoo primo though







i have lost count on how many times ive seen the ssd bracket being installed the wrong way for instance, its a freaking arrow pointing orientation there!

Btw, how do you guys manage the cables when Utilizing the bracket(s) on the side of the 5,25" bays?

Currently i have a big clutter of molexes in the odd bay


----------



## bond32

Got all the LED's replaced in the Phantek's fans. Was pretty easy, although time consuming and requires a lot of patience. Also, I am a bit disappointed with the LED's I installed. Wish they were brighter. Some photos:


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## Gunilla95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> Got all the LED's replaced in the Phantek's fans. Was pretty easy, although time consuming and requires a lot of patience. Also, I am a bit disappointed with the LED's I installed. Wish they were brighter. Some photos:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Looks awesome mate!
Boring to hear that they arent bright enough for you.
personly i like them when there are alittle darker.


----------



## simsim44

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roxycon*
> 
> He isnt the first reviwer to not do their homework properly on the enthoo primo though
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i have lost count on how many times ive seen the ssd bracket being installed the wrong way for instance, its a freaking arrow pointing orientation there!
> 
> Btw, how do you guys manage the cables when Utilizing the bracket(s) on the side of the 5,25" bays?
> 
> Currently i have a big clutter of molexes in the odd bay


I'll have to take a couple of pix of the finished (for now) look, it's kinda messy since I changed motherboards from the UD-7 to the Sabertooth.

still would like to get another fan hub from Phanteks as soon as they are available.


----------



## renkenkyo

Would it be possible to fit a 560 (4x140mm) radiator (specifically the XSPC EX560) into the top of the case without push pull?


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *renkenkyo*
> 
> Would it be possible to fit a 560 (4x140mm) radiator (specifically the XSPC EX560) into the top of the case without push pull?


Nope. A 480 rad runs the length of the top from front to back. Nothing longer will fit.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jared485*
> 
> I have the 5 fans plus 2 more sp120 fans. at 100% they take off and go good but below 50 percent they randomly stop and slow down. 3 fans will be going good and 4 will be going slow then all of the sudden 2 of the fast fans slow down and 2 of the slower ones speed up. It looks like the wattage is being thrown from fan to fan or something i dont know. Im gettting a fan controller in the mail soon i ordered it along with some extensions and i know thatll fix it but in the mean time its just no working right. I have the profiles and everything set and it says the fans are spinning at 1300+- rpm but sopme are barely spinning while others appear to be going 1300+- rpm


You have profiles in what ? FanXpert 2 ?

Did you run the calibration procedure ?

You have only one fan on Channel 1 ?

Try taking off the SP120s....and see if ya still have the proble.

Try this:

MoBo Header CHA_1 => Phanteks PCB => 5 Phanteks fans, 1 on Channel 1 and two each on channels whatever
MoBo Header CHA_2 =>SP120
MoBo Header CHA_3 =>SP120

I'd suggest that you get a 2nd Fan PCB and put the SP120s on that

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roxycon*
> 
> Btw, how do you guys manage the cables when Utilizing the bracket(s) on the side of the 5,25" bays?
> 
> Currently i have a big clutter of molexes in the odd bay


I changed the mountings .... OCD requires straight cables and every which way I tried was unsatisfactory..... so I took the mounting thingie and stuck it in a HD tray, problem solved. One day I will actually affix it in place instead of the current system....rubber band


----------



## Jared485

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> You have profiles in what ? FanXpert 2 ?
> 
> Did you run the calibration procedure ?
> 
> You have only one fan on Channel 1 ?
> 
> Try taking off the SP120s....and see if ya still have the proble.
> 
> Try this:
> 
> MoBo Header CHA_1 => Phanteks PCB => 5 Phanteks fans, 1 on Channel 1 and two each on channels whatever
> MoBo Header CHA_2 =>SP120
> MoBo Header CHA_3 =>SP120
> 
> I'd suggest that you get a 2nd Fan PCB and put the S


I have the Hub hooked up to my fan header, all fans on the hub. so all fan are running off that one fan header. I calibrated with fanexpert 2 so it only sees one fan. i have a custom profile and the standard ones. it doesn't work with the pre made profiles because its running cool enough to not need to be above 50% fan speed which is where ive found with the custom profile needed to run higher then 50% with a low temperature. I was hoping to avoid having to use motherboard headers, thats the whole point of the hub correct? Ill give wha you said a go and see what comes of it. Thanks again


----------



## simsim44

Gentlemen, and Ladies,
Can anybody confirm, or deny for that matter, that there are no 120mm fans available from Phanteks. I have been looking but I only see them on a CPU cooler and not sold separately.
Thanks


----------



## xCloudyHorizon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *simsim44*
> 
> Gentlemen, and Ladies,
> Can anybody confirm, or deny for that matter, that there are no 120mm fans available from Phanteks. I have been looking but I only see them on a CPU cooler and not sold separately.
> Thanks


They'll be out soon. I heard rumors of them coming out around the same time the Luxe drops, but no solid date yet.


----------



## simsim44

awesome thanks


----------



## renkenkyo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Nope. A 480 rad runs the length of the top from front to back. Nothing longer will fit.


Thanks, that really helped. I've the got case sitting here so just specing out the components. Orignally I liked the idea of going with low rpm phantek 140mm to reduce noise.


----------



## Ash2097

Is it possible to get a 7/16 5/8 tube routed behind the back from the pump mounted behind the motherboard tray on the bottom to a rad input at the top left (by CPU 8 pin)?


----------



## Veilus

Just got my case today and installed my gear. It seems the LED strips and the fans are not active even when hitting the button. I noticed that this is powered by the fan hub, was this already connected for people? I would look but its damn heavy to rotate and would try tomorrow. Fan hub is connected to mobo and psu. I was unsure why it said test the motherboard header before using the molex.

One other slight problem i had noticed (if it is) is that the front bay covers for the fans where it says to push in? requires alot of force for mine to the point where i didn't bother. It also seems i cant push the bottom fan filters in as well. Only one that works is the top one.

Other than that im loving the case.

Unsure if this helps but a few pictures of cover.



http://imgur.com/soKi0


----------



## simsim44

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ash2097*
> 
> Is it possible to get a 7/16 5/8 tube routed behind the back from the pump mounted behind the motherboard tray on the bottom to a rad input at the top left (by CPU 8 pin)?


That maybe doable I have a tube on the inside I have it going to the 5.25 bay side I will take pix when I get home tonight.

edit for pic
I had it originally going through the 240 rad bracket, but it was a little to tight, I was concerned when it got heated it could or would collapse.


----------



## Ash2097

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *simsim44*
> 
> That maybe doable I have a tube on the inside I have it going to the 5.25 bay side I will take pix when I get home tonight.


Thanks that would be good if you can.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Veilus*
> 
> Just got my case today and installed my gear. It seems the LED strips and the fans are not active even when hitting the button. I noticed that this is powered by the fan hub, was this already connected for people? I would look but its damn heavy to rotate and would try tomorrow. Fan hub is connected to mobo and psu. I was unsure why it said test the motherboard header before using the molex.
> 
> One other slight problem i had noticed (if it is) is that the front bay covers for the fans where it says to push in? requires alot of force for mine to the point where i didn't bother. It also seems i cant push the bottom fan filters in as well. Only one that works is the top one.
> 
> Other than that im loving the case.


There is a molex socket tagged with "12v input" you need to plug a molex from PSU into. This powers the case lights. On mine it was in the bunched cables at about same level as PWM fan hub . There is also an LED plug for additional.. I assume for additional lights.

Jack did a nice pdf of it here
http://www.overclock.net/t/1418637/phanteks-enthoo-primo-owners-club/1320_20#post_21204461


----------



## Veilus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> There is a molex socket tagged with "12v input" you need to plug a molex from PSU into. This powers the case lights. On mine it was in the bunched cables at about same level as PWM fan hub . There is also an LED plug for additional.. I assume for additional lights.
> 
> Jack did a nice pdf of it here
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1418637/phanteks-enthoo-primo-owners-club/1320_20#post_21204461


Thanks that fixed it, i had not noticed the 12v input, blended in with the other cables. All that is left is figuring out why the front fan cover wont come off when pushing in


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *simsim44*
> 
> Gentlemen, and Ladies,
> Can anybody confirm, or deny for that matter, that there are no 120mm fans available from Phanteks. I have been looking but I only see them on a CPU cooler and not sold separately.
> Thanks


Some of their 140mm fans intended for CPU cooler shave 120mm mounting holes.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jared485*
> 
> I have the Hub hooked up to my fan header, all fans on the hub. *so all fan are running off that one fan header*. I calibrated with fanexpert 2 so it only sees one fan. i have a custom profile and the standard ones. it doesn't work with the pre made profiles because its running cool enough to not need to be above 50% fan speed which is where ive found with the custom profile needed to run higher then 50% with a low temperature.


there's ya issue in bold ..... each fan model will have a different curve ..... so when it wants to set one fan at say 60%, that may require a different voltage for each fan.
Quote:


> I was hoping to avoid having to use motherboard headers, thats the whole point of the hub correct? Ill give wha you said a go and see what comes of it. Thanks again


What are you using ?

The signal has to come from somewhere..... FanXpert 2 control ya fan speeds thru your MoBo. The CPU headers are PWM....the MoBo headers are voltage controlled. Here's what I will eventually have ....

CPU_1 controls 1st pump in the 35X2
CPU_2 controls 2nd pump in the 35X2

CHA_1 controls (5) rad fans for the 280 + 420 via Phanteks PCB Hub No. 1
CHA_2 controls (5) case fans via Phanteks PCB Hub No. 2 *

* I need a F X F cable to go from MoBo to PCB to complete installation

If you are not using the CPU headers, these could be used for fan control via PWM and you can connect the PSU power cable to control up to 11 fans

If you are using CHA headers or OPT Headers, then the voltage control will be overridden by the PSU power connection if used so you are limited to a total amp draw of ya header. I'd say 6 fans is fine.... tho right now I have 8 connected.

BTW, these are questions I have asked Phanteks.... while I wait if anyone has any info, would be appreciated .......

1. The 2nd PCB I rec'd didn't come with a cable ..... anyone hear if they will eventually sell these with the PCB to match the oither cables or do we gotta get fron FCPU or other sources.

2. Anyone officially hear the the number of Phanteks SP140s we might be able to use on the PCB w/o connecting the 12V input. For those of us using MoBo CHA Headers , we can't connect the 12V input as that kills the variable voltage signal from the MoBo, overrides it and all fans run at full speed.

3. Any idea whether it's feasible and that we might see a "PCB Version 2" that would take the 12V from the PSU and neck that down to match the signal from MoBo ?

4. Any advice as to how to mount a 3rd PCB ? I'm thinking based upon the above, 10 fans is too much for a single MoBo header .... I am eventually thinking to have (6) Rad Fans (XT45-420) on PCB-1 .... (4) Rad Fans (UT60-280) on PCB-2 and (5) case fans on PCB-3

5. I was too anxious to start the build and never took a good look at the bottom before starting.... now that it weights like 100 pounds (well feels like it) it's a bit hard to peek. Since I saw a 4C water temperature drop removing the filters and top grill and raising the case off the desk, and sitting on teh desk Doyyl's very brilliant caster base isn't an option, any suggestions on how to mount case feet ?

6. Any further info on what and when on any additional case accessories ?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *renkenkyo*
> 
> Thanks, that really helped. I've the got case sitting here so just specing out the components. Orignally I liked the idea of going with low rpm phantek 140mm to reduce noise.


Highly recommended..... what ya putting in it component wise ? I'm thinking of starting a table that lists system wattages and all, what rads were used and what temps they got.... look for a future post

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Veilus*
> 
> Just got my case today and installed my gear. It seems the LED strips and the fans are not active even when hitting the button. I noticed that this is powered by the fan hub, was this already connected for people? I would look but its damn heavy to rotate and would try tomorrow. Fan hub is connected to mobo and psu. I was unsure why it said test the motherboard header before using the molex.
> 
> One other slight problem i had noticed (if it is) is that the front bay covers for the fans where it says to push in? requires alot of force for mine to the point where i didn't bother. It also seems i cant push the bottom fan filters in as well. Only one that works is the top one.
> 
> Other than that im loving the case.
> 
> Unsure if this helps but a few pictures of cover.
> 
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/soKi0


The LED hub needs to b fed from ya psu....see attached

LED.pdf 132k .pdf file


----------



## Essenbe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ash2097*
> 
> Is it possible to get a 7/16 5/8 tube routed behind the back from the pump mounted behind the motherboard tray on the bottom to a rad input at the top left (by CPU 8 pin)?


Yes. I have mine routed that way. There is plenty of room. It's hard to see, but you can see that the top rad only has 1 hose. The other one is going behind the motherboard tray.


.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *simsim44*
> 
> Gentlemen, and Ladies,
> Can anybody confirm, or deny for that matter, that there are no 120mm fans available from Phanteks. I have been looking but I only see them on a CPU cooler and not sold separately.
> Thanks


Phanteks sell the PH-F120s
http://phanteks.com/PH-F120S.html


----------



## brian-phanteks

Phanteks new 120mm fans have an ETA of end March. The 120 fans will be under our HP and SP series. HP is the colored series that comes with our PH-TC12DX cooler. The SP series will have a black case and white blades like the larger 140mm model. Specs will be available shortly for these fans. Same goes for the 200mm SP fan.

@Jack
1. The retail PWM hubs will come with the required 4pin cable to connect to the motherboard.
2. The total number of fans that can be connected without the additional molex power will ultimately depend on the power rating of that header. Should be around ~10-15W This info should be available in the MB manual?
3. The PWM hub was designed to be connected to a PWM header (CPU_1,CPU_opt,...) so I wouldnt expect that anytime soon, but you never know. At least I havent heard of anything in the making.
4. The new PWM hubs will come with some sort of universal installation tools such as velcro so users can install the hub wherever there is room.
5. No ideas about the feet.
6. The retail pwm hub should be available at the end of March.


----------



## doyll

Hi Brian!
Good to see you here!


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brian-phanteks*
> 
> Phanteks new 120mm fans have an ETA of end March. The 120 fans will be under our HP and SP series. HP is the colored series that comes with our PH-TC12DX cooler. The SP series will have a black case and white blades like the larger 140mm model. Specs will be available shortly for these fans. Same goes for the 200mm SP fan.
> 
> @Jack
> 1. The retail PWM hubs will come with the required 4pin cable to connect to the motherboard.
> 2. The total number of fans that can be connected without the additional molex power will ultimately depend on the power rating of that header. Should be around ~10-15W This info should be available in the MB manual?
> 3. The PWM hub was designed to be connected to a PWM header (CPU_1,CPU_opt,...) so I wouldnt expect that anytime soon, but you never know. At least I havent heard of anything in the making.
> 4. The new PWM hubs will come with some sort of universal installation tools such as velcro so users can install the hub wherever there is room.
> 5. No ideas about the feet.
> 6. The retail pwm hub should be available at the end of March.


1. Very good sir.....good to know
2. Note, manufacturers are quite mum on this subject ..... They are most often 1 amp or 12 watts .... I was wondering if the fan hub somehow provided some protection here
3. Not an electrical engineer, tho it seems possible to have some sort of feedback circuit that doe sthis.
4. Way cool
5. Ok, please advise if ya hear anything
6. We order this thru you guys or will be available via vendors like newegg, FCPU etc ?

Much thanks kind sir


----------



## brian-phanteks

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Hi Brian!
> Good to see you here!


Long time lurker, first time poster.


----------



## doyll

@ Jack,

Sounds like you are using your Phanteks PWM hub as a voltage controlled fan splitter with motherboard supplying variable voltabe?

[QUOTEOriginally posted by *JackNaylorPE*
2. Anyone officially hear the the number of Phanteks SP140s we might be able to use on the PCB w/o connecting the 12V input. For those of us using MoBo CHA Headers , we can't connect the 12V input as that kills the variable voltage signal from the MoBo, overrides it and all fans run at full speed.[/QUOTE]
Phanteks Rep told me
Quote:


> I have been told that the PWM can only hold 30W max.


To me that translates to 5a per 3pin fan header on the PWM hub.

Motherboard CHA headers *are not PWM headers*. Therefore they do not supply a PWM signal to PWM hub to control the 12v from PSU. The *PWM hub requires PWM signal.* to function with PSU 12v power.
Quote:


> Originally posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 3. Any idea whether it's feasible and that we might see a "PCB Version 2" that would take the 12V from the PSU and neck that down to match the signal from MoBo ?


That, my friend, is a very tall order. It would require a circuit that could monitor the voltage it receives and than regulates another power source to match it.


----------



## Gunilla95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> @ Jack,
> 
> Sounds like you are using your Phanteks PWM hub as a voltage controlled fan splitter with motherboard supplying variable voltabe?
> Phanteks Rep told me
> To me that translates to 5a per 3pin fan header on the PWM hub.


I have read this here many times now.
butt...... I have 8 AirPenetrators and 7 of the standard phanteks fans that comes with the case on it. runs perfectly fine. have em at 30% speed.
sometimes i pull them at max speed and works to..
but i think its over the 5a per channel specielly that i have all the airpens on one header through a NZXT Grid..
Why hasnt mine blows up yet?


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> @ Jack,
> 
> Sounds like you are using your Phanteks PWM hub as a voltage controlled fan splitter with motherboard supplying variable voltabe?


Yups .... as I mentioned a few paged back, late one night I did some math and said OK at 0.14 / 1.8 watts per Phanteks specs ... I can do 6 fans (0.84 amps w/o inrush / 10.8 watts) .... so i connected 6 cables and forgot that two were on splitters..... and nothing blew up .... so either Asus was conservative when they told me 1 amp ..... (not sure if the guy just guessed to get me off the phone) or they are in fact capable of higher loads..... or the PCB somehow dampens the in rush current as with 8 fans connected I shuda blown that header.

As I said was late at night and when I realized I had connected 8 fans I said to myself "better plug the PSU cable in". fans went to full speed and I spent an hour trying to reconfigure control..... posted here and RoG forums asking WTH ? Went to bed at 3 am and woke up at 5 am with a big "DUH !" floating over my head ..... rolled over muttering "Hey dumbass, didn't it occur to you that the 12V from the PSU was m,ashing the voltage signal from the MoBo ?" Still woke up and wanted to believe that the Phanteks smart guys musta thot of that and hoped it would do voltage matching .....








Quote:


> To me that translates to 5a per 3pin fan header on the PWM hub.


Most MoBo Headers are 1 amp.... hi hi end enthusiast boards (i.e Rampage series .... tho don't know about the LGA2011 and Z87 ones) supply 2 amps

What am I missing 30W ..... 5 amps x 6 headers = 30 amps x 12v = 360 watts.

I wuda thot .... 30W / 12v = 2.5 amps / 6 headers = 0.42 amps per header ....or about 3 Sp140s @ 01.4 amps

Quote:


> Motherboard CHA headers *are not PWM headers*. Therefore they do not supply a PWM signal to PWM hub to control the 12v from PSU. The *PWM hub requires PWM signal.* to function with PSU 12v power.


Yes, but it does NOT require a PWM signal and works just fine with a voltage signal .... as long as you don't connect the 12V. And yes I have explained that in detail in numerous posts ..... in this thread, other OCN threads, RoG threads and THG threads....where peeps have and still continually assume that because they are 4 pin, they must be PWM. . I have been told such an animal exists, but no one has ever been able to point me to a model number.
Quote:


> That, my friend, is a very tall order. It would require a circuit that could monitor the voltage it receives and than regulates another power source to match it.


Well essentially that's what the MoBo does but w/o enuff oomph.....it gets its 12V and based upon some algorithym decides to send out something else. You'd basically need a whatchamacallit to look at the MoBo voltage and say "using up to 12 amps of 12v power from the PSU , I will adjust the voltage on each of the 6 headers to match what I see coming in from the MoBo".... sounds like something I should ask Darlene to dream up


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Pardon me if this upsets anyone's forum etiquette sensibilities but wanted to keep this in a separate post......

Lotta times we see peeps asking about what rads to stuff in their Enthoo.....and many of us have presented data and their results but to get a consensus newcomers have to wade thru 308 pages of posts. I wanted to create a data source which could be used by peeps compare their plans with results. Here's the 1st draft of the file. Any suggestions for any other data that might be useful ?

Granted that most won't be in a position to fill every column but I figure better to grab what is available and have lotta empty spots than leave the data unreported. I was glad I looked, I was 'remebering 12.2 on one of my deltas....went back and looked and it was 12.8

DataCollection.XLS 26k .XLS file


hmm... just realized, pump speed / estimated flow would be good to add


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gunilla95*
> 
> I have read this here many times now.
> butt...... I have 8 AirPenetrators and 7 of the standard phanteks fans that comes with the case on it. runs perfectly fine. have em at 30% speed.
> sometimes i pull them at max speed and works to..
> but i think its over the 5a per channel specielly that i have all the airpens on one header through a NZXT Grid..
> Why hasnt mine blows up yet?


Air Penetrate is a maximum of *0.33amp each*. 8x fans is *2.64amps total.* That is31.7w. More load on one header than rep said for whole hub.







Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> Yups .... as I mentioned a few paged back, late one night I did some math and said OK at 0.14 / 1.8 watts per Phanteks specs ... I can do 6 fans (0.84 amps w/o inrush / 10.8 watts) .... so i connected 6 cables and forgot that two were on splitters..... and nothing blew up .... so either Asus was conservative when they told me 1 amp ..... (not sure if the guy just guessed to get me off the phone) or they are in fact capable of higher loads..... or the PCB somehow dampens the in rush current as with 8 fans connected I shuda blown that header.
> 
> As I said was late at night and when I realized I had connected 8 fans I said to myself "better plug the PSU cable in". fans went to full speed and I spent an hour trying to reconfigure control..... posted here and RoG forums asking WTH ? Went to bed at 3 am and woke up at 5 am with a big "DUH !" floating over my head ..... rolled over muttering "Hey dumbass, didn't it occur to you that the 12V from the PSU was m,ashing the voltage signal from the MoBo ?" Still woke up and wanted to believe that the Phanteks smart guys musta thot of that and hoped it would do voltage matching .....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> To me that translates to 5a per 3pin fan header on the PWM hub.
> 
> 
> 
> What am I missing 30W ..... 5 amps x 6 headers = 30 amps x 12v = 360 watts.
> 
> I wuda thot .... 30W / 12v = 2.5 amps / 6 headers = 0.42 amps per header ....or about 3 Sp140s @ 01.4 amps
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Motherboard CHA headers *are not PWM headers*. Therefore they do not supply a PWM signal to PWM hub to control the 12v from PSU. The *PWM hub requires PWM signal.* to function with PSU 12v power.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Yes I have explained that in detail in numerous posts ..... in this thread, other OCN threads, RoG threads and THG threads....where peeps have and still continually assume that because they are 4 pin, they must be PWM. . I have been told such an animal exists, but no one has ever been able to point me to a model number.
Click to expand...









My bad.. 30w is 2.5a @ 12v..








I know you know. Post was for those who don't .









Did have to laugh reading about trying to

Maybe Brian can talk to the engineers and find out what the PWM hub specs are.


----------



## simsim44

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ash2097*
> 
> Is it possible to get a 7/16 5/8 tube routed behind the back from the pump mounted behind the motherboard tray on the bottom to a rad input at the top left (by CPU 8 pin)?


Pix promised
this is what I have like I said I did have it on the inside of the rad bracket, but the bend was too tight, it is working out now. I think you would be better off with a 90 degree fitting off the rad in your setup,
The first pic this line is coming from the top rad to the front 240 which is visible in the second pic


there is a fair amount of space behind the motherboard tray, one of the benefits of this case.


----------



## Gunilla95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Air Penetrate is a maximum of *0.33amp each*. 8x fans is *2.64amps total.* That is31.7w. More load on one header than rep said for whole hub.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My bad.. 30w is 2.5a @ 12v..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I know you know. Post was for those who don't .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Did have to laugh reading about trying to
> 
> Maybe Brian can talk to the engineers and find out what the PWM hub specs are.


well now I know why i have been so confused. always thought it was 30 watt. but then bam you whrote 5 amp. ( i was all like " hmm maybe new info I didnt know bout, okey.







")
yeah I hope we can get some good info bout the design and capacity of the pwm hubb. clearly it can give more watts then they say..


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by Ash2097 View Post
> 
> Is it possible to get a 7/16 5/8 tube routed behind the back from the pump mounted behind the motherboard tray on the bottom to a rad input at the top left (by CPU 8 pin)?


There is over 20mm of space. But you might have problems managing cables going over/under tube.


----------



## bond32

I've been running 8x AP-15's off one header that's rated at 35 W for months now without issues. I believe the startup amperage of the AP-15's exceeds the 35 watts. If it blows, it blows. I have also run them off the PWM board too (I have the AP-15's connected to an NZXT 10 port fan hub).

Also I have ran 1/2 ID 3/4 OD tubing behind the motherboard before. Was a tight fit but it worked. So I think 5/8 would be fine.


----------



## renkenkyo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> Highly recommended..... what ya putting in it component wise ? I'm thinking of starting a table that lists system wattages and all, what rads were used and what temps they got.... look for a future post


I'm going to have 2x 780's, and Hasewell-E when it comes out but for now I got my old i7 980X. Probably going to run a 480 rad on the top and a 280 on the bottom.


----------



## Ouro

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brian-phanteks*
> 
> Phanteks new 120mm fans have an ETA of end March. The 120 fans will be under our HP and SP series. HP is the colored series that comes with our PH-TC12DX cooler. The SP series will have a black case and white blades like the larger 140mm model. Specs will be available shortly for these fans. Same goes for the 200mm SP fan.
> 
> @Jack
> 1. The retail PWM hubs will come with the required 4pin cable to connect to the motherboard.
> 2. The total number of fans that can be connected without the additional molex power will ultimately depend on the power rating of that header. Should be around ~10-15W This info should be available in the MB manual?
> 3. The PWM hub was designed to be connected to a PWM header (CPU_1,CPU_opt,...) so I wouldnt expect that anytime soon, but you never know. At least I havent heard of anything in the making.
> 4. The new PWM hubs will come with some sort of universal installation tools such as velcro so users can install the hub wherever there is room.
> 5. No ideas about the feet.
> 6. The retail pwm hub should be available at the end of March.


Great news considering I want to run two of those XSPC AX360 radiators in the white Primo.

Waiting and waiting!


----------



## Kimir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ouro*
> 
> Great news considering I want to run two of those XSPC AX360 radiators in the white Primo.
> 
> Waiting and waiting!


Oh, on that subject, since there is a phanteks rep here, maybe he has some info to share about the release of the white version, @brian-phanteks?


----------



## xCloudyHorizon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> Oh, on that subject, since there is a phanteks rep here, maybe he has some info to share about the release of the white version, Brian?


I'm gonna second this. I'm hyped to move out of my R4 and then spend a month and a half deciding on either an all white build or mixing it up with some black rads and fittings.


----------



## Branish

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xCloudyHorizon*
> 
> I'm gonna second this. I'm hyped to move out of my R4 and then spend a month and a half deciding on either an all white build or mixing it up with some black rads and fittings.


White case with black rads and black fittings and white coolant would look amazing. Or white rads with black fittings and black sleeving.


----------



## Jared485

(Fixed the pics)

Hey guys here are some pics of my first watercooled build!

Alphacool UT60's 420 on top 240 on bottom both in push/pull


Here a pic of my GPU with the alphacool block (only block made for this gpu) & EVGA backplate




GPU Installed


Did all the tubing here, was orignally planning to put res to the right but decided it looked better over here:




Lamptron FC6 fan controller, the knobs were to big so had to set it back so the door will close, not a biig deal to me. Thehe controller has 4 sp120s on one chennel, 3 bgears 140's on anohter channel, the i have 3 fans running of the Phantek Hub. I also put a fittinf sensor in the bottom rad and a thermal sensor under cpu block.


Heres she is all done with the NZXT HUE on, all i need is one more fan as an intake on the back/top probably a 140mm corsair AF120.


----------



## resetg

Test fire time!!!! About to start a leak test and hopefully have everything up and running tonight/tomorrow =)


^^^Side view! Gettin antsy to finish her up


^^^A front view so you can see how I modded the case to be able to run the 480mm rad with the ports facing forward


^^^View of the front from the inside =)


----------



## simsim44

Nice!


----------



## Gunilla95

So! im thinking for my next mod to my enthoo im gonna get some handles on it.

Im carrying my enthoo much to lans. (I have also own events with bout 100 peaple 4times a year.
So the idea is something like this.
http://mnpctech.com/pc-case-lan-party-gaming-carry-top-server-tower-handles/spring-loaded-pc-handles-recessed-pc-computer-case-rack-speaker-audio-equipment-road-sound-dj/spring-loaded-handles.html
and then place two metall blocks welded on the case itself up. and the screw the handles on this block thru the plastic.
Butt still so i can poop out the dustfiler.
so something like my incredible paint skills show below.


----------



## Branish

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gunilla95*
> 
> So! im thinking for my next mod to my enthoo im gonna get some handles on it.
> 
> Im carrying my enthoo much to lans. (I have also own events with bout 100 peaple 4times a year.
> So the idea is something like this.
> http://mnpctech.com/pc-case-lan-party-gaming-carry-top-server-tower-handles/spring-loaded-pc-handles-recessed-pc-computer-case-rack-speaker-audio-equipment-road-sound-dj/spring-loaded-handles.html
> and then place two metall blocks welded on the case itself up. and the screw the handles on this block thru the plastic.
> Butt still so i can poop out the dustfiler.
> so something like my incredible paint skills show below.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Handles are a great idea since the case is extremely unwieldy. I couldn't imagine using it for LANs. I hate moving it from one room to the next.


----------



## Gunilla95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Branish*
> 
> [/SPOILER]
> 
> Handles are a great idea since the case is extremely unwieldy. I couldn't imagine using it for LANs. I hate moving it from one room to the next.


Yep i love heavy builds. but as a student I also only have money for one rig so. When its time for Lans i have to take that heavy build. so now that the next event is up next weekend. and I already can see myself crying while carrying it to my car. I have to fast find a solution for the future.


----------



## Branish

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gunilla95*
> 
> Yep i love heavy builds. but as a student I also only have money for one rig so. When its time for Lans i have to take that heavy build. so now that the next event is up next weekend. and I already can see myself crying while carrying it to my car. I have to fast find a solution for the future.


Yeah I was in that same situation. You're lucky your car can fit the case. My Accord Coupe's passenger seat doesn't move forward enough to allow enough space to fit the case without my back taking all the weight. I could probably get it in but I don't know if I could get it out.


----------



## Gunilla95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Branish*
> 
> Yeah I was in that same situation. You're lucky your car can fit the case. My Accord Coupe's passenger seat doesn't move forward enough to allow enough space to fit the case without my back taking all the weight. I could probably get it in but I don't know if I could get it out.


http://i.imgur.com/oAapmT3.png
Had a pickup with 2 seats before. had the hole back with pillows and crap and the pc in the middle and then pray too god it doesnt rain.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gunilla95*
> 
> So! im thinking for my next mod to my enthoo im gonna get some handles on it.
> 
> Im carrying my enthoo much to lans. (I have also own events with bout 100 peaple 4times a year.
> So the idea is something like this.
> http://mnpctech.com/pc-case-lan-party-gaming-carry-top-server-tower-handles/spring-loaded-pc-handles-recessed-pc-computer-case-rack-speaker-audio-equipment-road-sound-dj/spring-loaded-handles.html
> and then place two metall blocks welded on the case itself up. and the screw the handles on this block thru the plastic.
> Butt still so i can poop out the dustfiler.
> so something like my incredible paint skills show below.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I had a web strap harness years ago like this
http://images2.pricecheck.co.za/images/objects/hash/product/b9d/f03/9a5/image_big_27017.jpg

It was okay, but I ended up getting a folding cart like this and strapping everything to it.
http://forums.redflagdeals.com/lowes-magna-cart-mcx-foldable-dolly-hand-truck-19-99-a-1346746/


----------



## Gunilla95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> I had a web strap harness years ago like this
> http://images2.pricecheck.co.za/images/objects/hash/product/b9d/f03/9a5/image_big_27017.jpg
> 
> It was okay, but I ended up getting a folding cart like this and strapping everything to it.
> http://forums.redflagdeals.com/lowes-magna-cart-mcx-foldable-dolly-hand-truck-19-99-a-1346746/


Yeah thats a smart thing. i have won of those to. but that doesnt help me get it down the stairs really.


----------



## doyll

I used the harness for those hard to navigate places.
The Enthoo Primo is so tall it might work easier to have a harness with handles front and back.

Add a castor base and telescopic handle like luggage has now... lift, push or tilt and pull along.


----------



## Ash2097

Here's mine:


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Here's a small update on the extra push-click latches for the filters on the Enthoo Primo we were discussing a month or so ago since they seem a bit prone to failing (I've had to get two replaced from Phanteks already, and so have several others here).

Back then I placed two different orders, one for 5 of the latches from an eBay seller in the UK that came to ~$12 with shipping to the US, and I went ahead and ordered a 4 pack them at about the same time from a US supplier, Homeclick, that came to ~$15.50 with shipping. I ordered from both because none of us at the time were sure if one or the other would be a correct match as a replacement for the latches on the Enthoo Primo.

Well, the Homeclick order was supposed to arrive first but my order got lost in their system. Even though they got their money right away if I hadn't called to ask about why it was taking so long it never would have gotten shipped.

The eBay order from the UK took right at a month to arrive. It apparently sat for two weeks in the black hole that is US Customs in Chicago. That said, it did show up a couple days before my order from Homeclick did, and came very well packaged wrapped in bubble wrap. The latches are a perfect match for the Enthoo Primo.

The Homeclick order finally did arrive yesterday. While it is likewise is a perfect match for the case, I only received one of the latches even though my order was for a 4 pack of them. On top of that the latch came packaged simply in a heavy-gauge plastic bag in an envelope with no padding. The latch itself was open, with the little prongs sticking out like outstretched arms, and I have to say that I'm VERY surprised it's not broken. You can just look at the latch and see it's pretty fragile especially opened up like that. The reason my order is wrong seems to be related to how it got lost and delayed in the first place. Homeclick apparently doesn't keep any of them in stock. Instead, they have them drop-shipped from the manufacturer, and the communication between them and the manufacturer is obviously FAIL on every level. soooo, I have contacted them _again_ and am supposedly getting sent 3 more of the latches. I won't be holding my breath.

Anywho, all that just to say that if anyone else is looking, like I was, to stockpile a few extra of the latches so they wouldn't have to go through Phanteks support and wait should theirs break, they definitely can be had, but I'd avoid that Homeclick place like the plague if I was you. In the US I've found them referred to as a *non-magnetic mini touch latch* and in the UK they can be found by searching for a '*push click bin latch*'.


----------



## simsim44

funny, I ordered two of the "4 packs" and only received two pieces, I too call and they said they would look into it, I have not heard hide nor hair of anything else on the issue. I suppose another not so nice phone call is in order.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *simsim44*
> 
> funny, I ordered two of the "4 packs" and only received two pieces, I too call and they said they would look into it, I have not heard hide nor hair of anything else on the issue. I suppose another not so nice phone call is in order.


Yeah, I haven't even opened mine from them yet out of the sealed bag it came in. My order was clearly for a set of 4 ("Non-Magnetic Mini Touch Latch (Body) - Set of 4 - PR-4PK") but what I received the item # says "PR-4PK-1PC". Needless to say I won't be doing any more business with Homeclick ...





Doesn't look like the "Set of 4" I was expecting.


----------



## simsim44

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Yeah, I haven't even opened mine from them yet out of the sealed bag it came in. My order was clearly for a set of 4 ("Non-Magnetic Mini Touch Latch (Body) - Set of 4 - PR-4PK") but what I received the item # says "PR-4PK-1PC". Needless to say I won't be doing any more business with Homeclick ...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Doesn't look like the "Set of 4" I was expecting.


here you go I even sent them these pix as they requested


think mine was 21 dollars


----------



## Roxycon

I have used half my day roughly exchanging my 3 120 fans on top of the top rad for 3 140 fans, the leftovers i had from the case originally, so now im using all 5 of the 140 fans with the phanteks controller and the noise is inbearable... do you guys use reducers before the power in on the controller?

Think its about time to order a proper controller rather than the link


----------



## Branish

Oh no. I guess I'll be replacing those fans since I'm going to be using the 5 fans it came with. The build should be up and running by next weekend.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roxycon*
> 
> I have used half my day roughly exchanging my 3 120 fans on top of the top rad for 3 140 fans, the leftovers i had from the case originally, so now im using all 5 of the 140 fans with the phanteks controller and the noise is inbearable... do you guys use reducers before the power in on the controller?
> 
> Think its about time to order a proper controller rather than the link


Why are they spinning so fast? Do you have it connected to a PWM header on the mobo? (CPU_FAN or CPU_OPT) And is it setup correctly in your BIOS &/or the AI suite or whatever you're using to control the PWM duty cycle settings?

As I understand it Jack is using his Phanteks fan hub with a non-PWM header on his mobo but it's definitely not meant to be used like that. It's meant to have a solid 12volts input and a PWM signal to control the fan speed. I can't imagine the hub will last very long connected to a non-PWM header.


----------



## Branish

So with the PWM fan hub connected correctly the fans aren't too loud when set at a low RPM?


----------



## Veilus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Branish*
> 
> So with the PWM fan hub connected correctly the fans aren't too loud when set at a low RPM?


Thats the case for me, the PWM fan hub is currently connected to the CPU_OPT with the 12v input with all the stock fans connected and i can barely hear anything when i have set it to standard mode in fanxpert 2.


----------



## brian-phanteks

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> Oh, on that subject, since there is a phanteks rep here, maybe he has some info to share about the release of the white version, @brian-phanteks?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xCloudyHorizon*
> 
> I'm gonna second this. I'm hyped to move out of my R4 and then spend a month and a half deciding on either an all white build or mixing it up with some black rads and fittings.


The case is still scheduled to arrive at the end of March. As soon as I get an exact ETA I will let everyone know, and at that point preorders will be available at phanteksusa.


----------



## Kimir

Thanks for the input!


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fumferknuckle*
> 
> It's good to know the sound is good. Also, before I forget to ask, what are those round red things that are attached to the gpu pipes? I have never seen those before! They look cool though. Now, speaking of tubing, let's start there. I think I am going to do what you did in your build. Have straight pieces with use of corner pieces and such. Because I know nothing about acrylic tubing, and have yet to read that article you posted, I won't go crazy with questions until later.
> I guess I will start with the graphics cards and work my way into reservoir questions. First, thank you for bringing that Asus card to my attention. It does seem to be the better buy (although that EVGA SC is the cheapest on PCPP). I don't know if I have mentioned this before, but I was originally going to go with 780ti SLI, but the extra 400+ and 5-15 frame difference wasn't worth it, to me. Most people agree that the Classified 780 is the best. But, I don't know if:
> 1. It two of them would fit WITH a res beside them.
> 2. If the Asus is a better buy.
> 3. Other stuff.


Started to answer you last week but had an emergency call out and son shut down puter on me while I was gone ....so picking up where I left off.

A. The round thingies are flow meters

B. The MSI Lightning and Classified allow over volting and have additional features not on factory overclocked cards. The SC should be cheaper as they don't have to use a custom PCB or more expensive VRM.....on newegg the usually the same tho .... both MSI and Asus are $500, EVGA is $510 after rebate.

1. Yes, twin Asus 780s fit with the EK res on the bracket using one of the three available EK water blocks..... ya need the "Clean" acrylic one, not the one w/ the EK circles or the black one.
2. See above.... significantly outperforms the EVGA SC in the tests and is cheaper. EVGA Classi and MSI Lightning are different beats and have more features for serious OC'ers willing to risk their cards to their experimentation.
Quote:


> Mainly, what card should I get? I was planning on getting one of them to start, and in a while (maybe a couple months, basically when I buy a 1440p monitor) buy another one. Now I am kinda thinking about going ahead and getting them at the same time, especially if I am gonna be doing the more "difficult" and intricate tubing. Along with that, what water block should I get for it? I've done research in the past and people basically say get whatever looks best to you. But you won't ever really see it to be honest. Although looks are important, performance and compatibility are more of a concern. I can't tell what water blocks you are using, but they look good. Very good actually. Like that clear piece that surrounds it looks premium, and the SLI bridge doesn't look stupid. The SLI bridge on the XSPC one does, and that blue light is just a gimmick. I'm not a HUGE fan of LEDs, even though I have a Logitech G600 and want the new individually back lit Corsair keyboard. I honestly hate LEDs when I am watching stuff, and even on my mouse I turn the lights off unless I am playing a game. And if I wanted lights it wouldn't be hard to install them. Anyway, I feel the EK is probably better. I gotta ask though, why did you route your tubing the way you did? Most builds I have seen, people put a tube or a connector in between the cards.


C. Of I did the Ti's wuda went that route but taking the machine down to rebuild is not something I can afford to have "out of action".

D. The EK water block substantially outperforms everything else on the market for VRAM (6C) and VRM (13C) cooling (23:00 minute mark) tho the XSPC beats it by 1.6C on the GPU ...I posted the link to the video and times where they show the stats a few paged back....some of the VRMs hit 82C (Classifed)






I didn't use an SLI Bridge, I piped each card separately in parallel as I wanted a more open look. When ya see the tubes (aka Crystal Link) between cards, most often that is a series flow pattern where the coolant flows thru 1st one card then the other. They can also be set up in parallel but again, I just don't like the look of the big bridges or the non symmetrical look of the Crystal Link. Parallel allows two advantages.....

-2nd card is not cooled by coolant pre-heated by the 1st card so both run at same temps.
-only half pump flow goes thru GPU blocks (which don't need it) reducing back pressure.

They are the EK Full cover Asus "Clean" block

CPU Water Block - EK Supremacy Universal CPU Liquid Cooling Block - Clean Plexi (EK-Supremacy Clean CSQ) - No Circles [3830046990808]
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/19628/ex-blc-1442/EK_Supremacy_Universal_CPU_Liquid_Cooling_Block_-_Clean_Plexi_EK-Supremacy_Clean_CSQ.html?tl=g57c603s1912

TIM Gelid Solutions GC-3 Extreme Thermal Compound - 3.5 Grams (TC-GC-03-A)
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/13313/thr-108/Gelid_Solutions_GC-3_Extreme_Thermal_Compound_-_35_Grams_TC-GC-03-A.html

GPU Water Block - EK ASUS GeForce 780 GTX DCII VGA Liquid Cooling Block - Nickel (EK-FC780 GTX DCII - Nickel)
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/21270/ex-blc-1529/EK_ASUS_GeForce_780_GTX_DCII_VGA_Liquid_Cooling_Block_-_Nickel_EK-FC780_GTX_DCII_-_Nickel.html?tl=c613s1928b133

GPU Water Block Backplate - EK ASUS GeForce 780 GTX DCII VGA Liquid Cooling RAM Backplate - Black CSQ (EK-FC780 GTX DCII Backplate - Black)
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/21273/ex-blc-1532/EK_ASUS_GeForce_780_GTX_DCII_VGA_Liquid_Cooling_RAM_Backplate_-_Black_CSQ_EK-FC780_GTX_DCII_Backplate_-_Black.html?tl=c613s1928b133

Quote:


> One part of me likes this look a lot, then another likes what you did a lot. I think the above picture has a nice, clean look though. But I imagine cooling performance is probably limited, mostly because it looks like that kind of SLI bridge is more restricting. Although, it may be better for cooling, and easier with less tubing. Another question.. how in the hell is that thing mounted?? Also, I think I spy a EK GPU block, and it looks gooood. Oh, I just noticed that reservoir.. Hmm.. It actually looks pretty good, if a little crowded. Is your mounting options better there then it is beside the graphics cards?
> Just thinking out of the blue here, but I imagine the acrylic tubing is "safer". With the "flex" tubing one of the precautions most people take is using compression fittings (which is what I was going to do) but with the acrylic it seems all the fittings have a very nice seal and hold on the tubing. Again, I don't know much about acrylic tubing, just throwing my thoughts out there.


E. As far as look, I'm OCD about straight lines ..... if I have bends, they'd all have to be concentric and identical radii so flex tubing is a definite no-no for me and bent tubing would be quite a challenge. Not sure what "thing" ya referring to. My res is mounted on the Enthoo Res Bracket using the predrilled holes.....it has about 2-3mm of clearance to the cards / blocks. I have some housekeeping to do, once I sleeve the cables they should be almost invisible.
Quote:


> So, you feel like most of your components (like rads, tubing and fans) should match your case color? If so, black case and black radiator or white case with white radiator. I was thinking in class today how the black case may be the better option. But looking at water cooling builds, almost EVERYONE is doing black cases, black radiators, and either green/blue/red tubing. This makes me want a white case and white rad combo even more just so I don't have a generic looking rig.


F. That's a personal choice.... like briefs versus boxers







..... and what some peeps like, wud make others uncomfy....if ya do a white case, I'd do white rads and white res and let the MoBo be my highlight.

Quote:


> Anyway, I had thought of a clear CPU block, but it would probably be difficult to see inside with all the pipes in the way, and I have heard VERY good things about the Koolance-380I. Also, I haven't been able to find really any forum discussions or articles talking about the Formulas on-board water block. Do you know of any reviews that mention it or have knowledge on it? I don't know much about it. And I totally get what you mean on the top rad now. I will probably do a XT45. Although, I am still confused as why you aren't using P/P? Then for the bottom, probably a UT60. It makes sense down there, to me, because you have so much empty space. Although, it may not from a cooling stand point. I wanted to ask what I should do. You say you use your fans on 450rpm, which sounds absolutely insane. Like, wow. And you manage good temps. That has to be whisper quiet. I would probably go 850rpm, unless the performance didn't show (I don't see how it couldn't though), as I imagine that's very inaudible. So, please explain to me more about rad sizes, especially thinner ones, and what fan speeds to use. I still don't understand the reason for not P/P on the bottom either. It looks pretty cool with the blank rad look, but I am sure with fans it would look cool and probably provide better temps. And while I am asking radiator questions, I gotta ask. How would I go about painting rads? I wouldn't want to get paint in the screw holes or the fins, let alone the ports. Or get paint in areas I wouldn't want it. I mean, blue painters tape MAY work well, but I'm not convinced. And would I use spray paint? My neighbor has a paint gun that sprays paint so do note that. I won't be sitting in my basement spraying drips all over them or anything lol. And will I have to worry about it fading? Oh, and I will probably go 420/420 on both the bottom and top.


G. When ya see a link to a review, it's important to go thru all of it..... sometimes peeps read the 1st paragraph and make an inappropriate conclusion .... what is best depends on what heat signature it has..... what is best on one block, is not the best on another. For Haswell, EK rules, for LGA 2011 Koolance rules.

http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?285753-CPU-water-blocks-roundup

H. The problem with what you "read on the internet" is too many folks parrot what they have read and either misinterpret or take comments out of context. You will oft see peeps say the the presence of aluminum in a loop will corrode copper blocks .... which is actually a scientific impossibility as copper is a more noble metal. The MoBo block however is anodized aluminum a material I have been working with for decades in highly corrosive environments. I have absolutely no concerns with this block material. I have also seen it posted that "this" block is restrictive from peeps who have never seen it......reading somewhere in the past that a certain block is restrictive, the conclusion is drawn that all MoBo blocks are restrictive which is inappropriate. I'll be doing my 3 month tear down in a few days and will report on block condition. The block's flow path is about the same flow area as a tube.

I. As for the P/P decision

a. I went way over budget so decided to build ion push, and then do pull later
b. I wanted to to some testing 1st with 1 fan before doing P/P
c. My temps in pish are betetr than i expected in P/P already
d. Need a 2nd and 3rd Phanteks PCBs to run all the fans and they don't come out till March

Quote:


> What I wanted to ask about was reservoirs though. Which do you recommend? You managed to do SLI 780's with a res beside them. I like that look a lot, but if it isn't possible in certain configurations or it's simply better "above" the GPUs then that's fine. I just need to figure that out, as it controls my loop routing and what size GPU blocks I use. Also, you mentioned a few EK res'. Can you link me to them? I couldn't find them in the time I had to look, and the ones I did find were nothing like yours or were very different. And I don't like the look of that Primochill one I listed.


J. I thot I mentioned it's the EK res 3-250 .... but all parts are listed in my sig. To me, a big part of the Enthoo was the res bracket ..... not using it was like....I dunno... having DDR3-2400 and running it at 1600......seemed a shame not to use one of the more prominent features of the case.

Reservoir - EK-MultiOption RES X3 250 - Liquid Cooling Reservoir - White Acetal (6 Total Ports) w/ (2) EK Extender Fittings
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/21672/ex-res-677/EK-MultiOption_RES_X3_250_-_Liquid_Cooling_Reservoir_-_White_Acetal_6_Total_Ports.html?tl=g57c615s1940#blank

Reservoir Top - EK X3 Reservoir Multiport Replacement Top - White (EK-RES X3 - Multiport TOP WHITE)
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/18485/ex-res-481/EK_X3_Reservoir_Multiport_Replacement_Top_-_White_EK-RES_X3_-_Multiport_TOP_WHITE.html?id=4NiLmkLB&mv_pc=1254

Reservoir Fill Tube Internal Tube 12/16 - 140mm (EK-RES-X3-TUBE-140
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_1165_1162&products_id=36312

EK - Extender Fitting - EK G1/4 Thread Fitting Extender - Nickel - 8mm (Fitting Extender G1/4 (Ni))
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/18760/scr-701/EK_G14_Thread_Fitting_Extender_-_Nickel_-_8mm_Fitting_Extender_G14_Ni.html?id=4NiLmkLB&mv_pc=1256

Quote:


> A few more 780 things. First, the Asus 780 has two different fans? Lol. I found that odd. Second, while looking around for more about that Asus 780, I stumbled upon the ROG Poseidon. I had completely forgot about that thing! I read a quick review on it, and to be honest, the frames weren't much better than a regular 780. BUT, it doesn't come pre-OCed. I do have to say I LOVEEEE the design. It looks so sleek and sexy. Plus, what a brilliant design!! The temps I seen were very good, and the fans are apparently veryy quiet. BUTTT, I can't find ANYTHING about it! Like, where do you buy the damn thing?? No forum posts about release dates, no news on it. Only reviews, but no where to buy it. I am very confused on that thing.


K. I didn't think about the cooler much since I was taking it off. But the reviews I read seemed to like the logic of the different fan sizes.... and it's performance is top of the heap.
Quote:


> Also, have you thought about delidding your 4770k? I have read on it some, and it is suppose to drop temps by as much as 10 degrees celsius. Also making over clocking easier and better. Lot's of good things about it. Except it voids warranty and is dangerous to perform. But, I wanted to know your take.


L. I didn't see the point..... I mean I planned on it, was one of the features I like about the EB Blocks is ya can "go nekid" with Naked Ivy mount for $5, but I was at 74-75C with 46 multiplier / 46 cache ratio and I'm perfectly fine with that. I could see it more on Ivy but Haswell seems to hit voltage limits before temp limits and the advantage you get is less as Intel , while not getting it right, certainly improved the delta since Ivy. If my voltage wasn't up > 1.4 under Adaptive w/ ACX instructions, I'd go for 4.7 or 4.8 but 46/46 was my initial target.
Quote:


> By the way, when I seen that picture of the cardboard TI, I bursted out in laughter. Great stuff man.


It served it's purpose..... gave me confidence enough to buy the 1st 780 feeling perty sure it would fit.... and when it did, went out and bought the 2nd. That was a "modded" GTS 420 I salvaged from an office build.
Quote:


> Final question. What tubing and angles are you using?


Rigid 10/12 mm Acrylic Tubing - EK 12mm OD Solid Tube Set - Clear - 2x 19.5" (EK-HD Tube 10/12mm 500mm (2 pcs)
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/21244/ex-tub-2002/

G1/4" x Rigid Tubing Connector (Male) - Bitspower SLI / Crossfire Multi-Link Adapter Pair - Matte Black (BP-MBWP-C47)
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/10743/ex-tub-668/Bitspower_SLI_Crossfire_Multi-Link_Adapter_Pair_-_Matte_Black_BP-MBWP-C47.html

G1/4" x Rigid Tubing Connector (Female) - Bitspower G1/4 Matte Black Multi-Link Adapter (BP-MBWP-C68)
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/12748/ex-tub-818/Bitspower_G14_Matte_Black_Multi-Link_Adapter_BP-MBWP-C68.html#blank

G1/4" 90° Rotary Bend - Bitspower G1/4" Matte Black Rotary 90° G1/4" Adapter (BP-MB90R)
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/10376/ex-tub-629/Bitspower_G14_Matte_Black_Rotary_90_G14_Adapter_BP-MB90R.html?tl=c101s1306b145

G1/4" 45° Rotary Bend - Bitspower G1/4" Matte Black Rotary 45 Degree G1/4" Adapter (BP-MB45R)
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/11887/ex-tub-737/Bitspower_G14_Matte_Black_Dual_Rotary_45-Degree_Compression_Fitting_CC2_For_ID_38_OD_12_Tube_BP-MB45R2CPF-CC2.html

G1/4" Tee Fitting - Bitspower G1/4" Matte Black T Adapter (BP-MBTMB)
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/10382/ex-tub-622/Bitspower_G14_Matte_Black_T_Adapter_BP-MBTMB.html

G1/4" x Compression Connector (Male) - Bitspower G1/4 Thread 3/8" ID x 1/2" OD Rotary Compression Fitting - Matte Black (BP-MBRCPF-CC2)
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/11107/ex-tub-700/Bitspower_G14_Thread_38_ID_x_12_OD_Rotary_Compression_Fitting_-_Matte_Black_BP-MBRCPF-CC2.html?tl=c409s1032b145 ex-tub-700

Quick-Disconnect for Drain - Bitspower Matte Black Quick-Disconnected Male w/ Inner G1/4 (BP-MBQDMIG14)
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/17966/ex-tub-1636/Bitspower_Matte_Black_Quick-Disconnected_Male_w_Inner_G14_BP-MBQDMIG14.html

Quick-Disconnect for Drain - Bitspower Matte Black Quick-Disconnected Female w/ G1/4 Thread (BP-MBQDFG14)
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/17965/ex-tub-1635/Bitspower_Matte_Black_Quick-Disconnected_Female_w_G14_Thread_BP-MBQDFG14.html

Tubing - Tygon 2475 Ultra Chemical Resistant Plasticizer Free Tubing - 3/8" ID (1/2" OD) - Clear (ACG00027)
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/10691/ex-tub-663/Tygon_2475_Ultra_Chemical_Resistant_Plasticizer_Free_Tubing_-_38_ID_12_OD_-_Clear_ACG00027.html

Bleeder Valve - Bitspower G1/4" Mini Valve - Matte Black (BP-MVV-MBK)
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/14596/ex-tub-1035/Bitspower_G14_Mini_Valve_-_Matte_Black_BP-MVV-MBK.html?tl=c101s1332b145

G1/4 30mm Fitting Extender - Bitspower G1/4 Male to Female Extender - 30mm - Matte Black (BP-MBWP-C63)
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/12340/ex-tub-777/Bitspower_G14_Male_to_Female_Extender_-_30mm_-_Matte_Black_BP-MBWP-C63.html?tl=c101s1354b145

Flow Meter - Bitspower G1/4 Thread Flow Sensor - Matte Black (BP-FS-CLBKMBK)
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/16903/ex-tub-1371/Bitspower_G14_Thread_Flow_Sensor_-_Matte_Black_BP-FS-CLBKMBK.html?tl=c101s457b145

Male by Male Extender - Bitspower Dual G1/4" Male / Male Fitting - Matte Black (BP-MBWP-C08)
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/10363/ex-tub-609/Bitspower_Dual_G14_Male_Male_Fitting_-_Matte_Black_BP-MBWP-C08.html?tl=c101s1354b145

Temperature Probes - Bitspower G 1/4" Temperature Sensor Stop Fitting - Matte Black (BP-MBWP-CT)
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/10373/ex-tub-620/Bitspower_G_14_Temperature_Sensor_Stop_Fitting_-_Matte_Black_BP-MBWP-CT.html?tl=c229s579b145&id=kISyRgfV&mv_pc=643

G1/4 Fitting Extender - Bitspower G 1/4" Thread Fitting Extender - Matte Black (BP-MBWP-C40)
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/10371/ex-tub-618/Bitspower_G_14_Thread_Fitting_Extender_-_Matte_Black_BP-MBWP-C40.html?tl=c101s1354b145#options

Fill Port Plug - Bitspower G1/4" Low Profile Matte Black Stop Plug w/ O-Ring (BP-MBWP-C09)
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/10362/ex-tub-610/Bitspower_G14_Low_Profile_Matte_Black_Stop_Plug_w_O-Ring_BP-MBWP-C09.html

Think that's all of it


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Air Penetrate is a maximum of *0.33amp each*. 8x fans is *2.64amps total.* That is31.7w. More load on one header than rep said for whole hub.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My bad.. 30w is 2.5a @ 12v..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I know you know. Post was for those who don't .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Did have to laugh reading about trying to
> 
> Maybe Brian can talk to the engineers and find out what the PWM hub specs are.


Well ..... the Enthoo does have room for a 2nd PSU mount if ya wanted to stick with the 30 amp idea







.... Enthoo Primo Plus ... comes with 360 watt PSU .... just for fans !

I assumed it as just a situation where ya mind had switched from amps to watts and ya fingers were to far ahead of the thought process..... I do it all the time









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gunilla95*
> 
> So! im thinking for my next mod to my enthoo im gonna get some handles on it.
> Im carrying my enthoo much to lans. (I have also own events with bout 100 peaple 4times a year.
> So the idea is something like this.
> [/IMG]


Damn.... you must be stronger than you look in ya avatar picture







I was thinking more of something like this ....including the 4 guys to carry it.



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roxycon*
> 
> I have used half my day roughly exchanging my 3 120 fans on top of the top rad for 3 140 fans, the leftovers i had from the case originally, so now im using all 5 of the 140 fans with the phanteks controller and the noise is inbearable... do you guys use reducers before the power in on the controller?
> 
> Think its about time to order a proper controller rather than the link


1. What is the feed to the PCB connected to ?

-CPU / PWM Header ? Can plug in PSU 12V connector to PCB and it still works
-MoBo Header ? Can NOT plug in PSU 12V connector to PCB or no control *

2. What rpm are the fans running at ? I mean at 1230 rpm I can hear them but thry are quieter than any other 1200 rpm fan i own.

3. At 850 rpm they shud be inaudible.

I think I'm picking up where ya coming from .... you connected the 5 Phanteks fans and the 12V power to the PSU which means you have no speed control. The PCB requires a speed control signal....

A. If you didn't connect anything, then you have no speed control.
B. If ya connect a cable from the PCB to the CPU Fan header, you have PWM control and the 12v connector has no effect..... but with just 5 fans, you by no means need the 12v feed from the PSU.
C. If ya connect a cable from the PCB to the CHA Fan header, you have voltage and with just 5 fans, you don't need the 12v feed from the PSU and the signal from the MoBo will control speeds just fine..... it will send whatever voltage is necessary to hit the targeted point on ya custom fan curve. BUT ! If you connect a 12V feed from the PSU.... then whatever voltage is being sent by the CHA header will be over ridden by the 12V feed from the PSU and your fans will always run at full speed.

I will be using fill voltage control direct via the MoBo CHA headers and FanXpert 2. I want to have different fan profiles for the rads downstream of the CPU and GPUs....the one downstream of the CPU, I am willing to let run a bit faster as the noise for the most part will be dampened inside the case. So:

a) CHA_1 => PCB 1 => Rad 1, Downstream of GPUs (420 - 6 fans)
b) CHA_2 => PCB 2 => Rad 2, Downstream of CPU (280 - 4 fans)
a) CHA_3 => PCB 3 => Case Fans (5 fans)

Brian pointed out that there is a 3rd mounting point up top near where the res bracket connects so we have 3 mounts. All will be voltage controlled w/ no pSU conenctions.


----------



## xCloudyHorizon

Anyone have some good recommendations for drive bay adapters for hard drives that they've put in their Primo's? My Caviar Black gets pretty loud sometimes when it's reading/writing in my R4, which I'm assuming is from how it's mostly metal on metal. I've been looking at this Akasa Cagestor, but I just wanted to make sure I wasn't missing out on something better.


----------



## Roxycon

Jack, do you do anything other than ocn?







Hahah, i love your answers though

As to the hub, previously I had 3 of the original fans connected, one akasa 120 mm basic fan and two 60 mm fans hooked up, all of them was 3-pins.. the 4 pin coming out of the hub was connected to a corsair link module and the PSU power was plugged in and i had full static control of the fans hooked up to it and they all ran at 650-700 rpm, nice and lovely.

But since then i have done a cleanup to get rid of some fans and A LOT of molexes so i took of the 120 and the 60's from the hub and trashed one of the cooling modules since I'm only using 12 fans now and 5 of them are on the hub. i then connected the phanteks hub as i did previously aka molex power and the 4 pin to one of my link modules, but then the fans was running at full tilt and it didn't show up as a device within the corsair software. Then i re-flashed the firmware, same result.

First thing i did this morning was relocating the 4pin from the link module to a mb header (non cpu) with the psu plugged into the hub, same result with the rpm at full tilt even if i set the curve inside the bios. I then disconnected the psu and the fans went down to a tolerable speed







so i think they're hovering around 60% which should be about 800-900 rpm (still a bit too much for my taste but it'll have to do till i get an aquaero)

still got awesome temps after taking out 9 fans though







max cpu temp after 1 hour of guild wars was at about 50 degree c, so now I'm back debating whether or not i should break up the parallel loop









I'm in Poland atm and sadly i didn't have time to upload my build log pictures to dropbox so i could show you how to fully cover a 480 rad mounted the opposite way of what phanteks intended you to, but if it is interest i'll post them when i'll get back home, i know it was another owner in here wanting to mount it as i did







anyhow ill post my cable management here for some guidance, though i think i nailed it
















What do you guys and gals use for lightning that look great inside the EP and where do you place them? I've gone through led fans (too smokey), corsairs led strips (awful bugs) and ccfl's (too hard to hide)


----------



## Gunilla95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> Damn.... you must be stronger than you look in ya avatar picture
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was thinking more of something like this ....including the 4 guys to carry it.


Hate braking it to you. But.. Thats not me.
I have this girl as Avatar becouse she's simply hot :3

but yes i been havin fullcases my entire life so im pretty strong now..


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xCloudyHorizon*
> 
> Anyone have some good recommendations for drive bay adapters for hard drives that they've put in their Primo's? My Caviar Black gets pretty loud sometimes when it's reading/writing in my R4, which I'm assuming is from how it's mostly metal on metal. I've been looking at this Akasa Cagestor, but I just wanted to make sure I wasn't missing out on something better.


Assume you mean Define R4. Screws through rubber grommet/mount need to be just touching the rubber. Any tighter and HDD vibration/noise transmits through mount.

Have you tried your Caviar Black in the Primo?


----------



## xCloudyHorizon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Assume you mean Define R4. Screws through rubber grommet/mount need to be just touching the rubber. Any tighter and HDD vibration/noise transmits through mount.
> 
> Have you tried your Caviar Black in the Primo?


I tried loosening them a little a couple weeks ago while cleaning out my rig, it helped a little, but was still noticeable. I may just be sensitive to it or something, but I'm hoping it's just it being a naturally loud drive since I've done a few tests on it to check it's health.

I don't have my Primo yet since I'm waiting for the white version, but I've got my fingers crossed that it's quieter in the plastic sleds than it is on the metal ones.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roxycon*
> 
> Jack, do you do anything other than ocn?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hahah, i love your answers though


On my lunch break....and sometimes it winds up a bit of along break and my boss busts my ass for wasting time .... I stand in front of mirror and yell at myself.
Quote:


> As to the hub, previously I had 3 of the original fans connected, one akasa 120 mm basic fan and two 60 mm fans hooked up, all of them was 3-pins.. the 4 pin coming out of the hub was connected to a corsair link module and the PSU power was plugged in and i had full static control of the fans hooked up to it and they all ran at 650-700 rpm, nice and lovely.
> 
> First thing i did this morning was relocating the 4pin from the link module to a mb header (non cpu) with the psu plugged into the hub, same result with the rpm at full tilt even if i set the curve inside the bios. I then disconnected the psu and the fans went down to a tolerable speed
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> so i think they're hovering around 60% which should be about 800-900 rpm (still a bit too much for my taste but it'll have to do till i get an aquaero)


yeah I found tghe BIOS profiles useless..... FanXpert2 worked great tho.
Quote:


> still got awesome temps after taking out 9 fans though
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> max cpu temp after 1 hour of guild wars was at about 50 degree c, so now I'm back debating whether or not i should break up the parallel loop


Wanna laugh ? ..... been playing STALKER Chernobyl.... kil-o-watt indicates 117 watts draw. At idle now I drawing 120









Games don't take anything anywhere near benchies ..... I mostly recall seeing draws at the kil-o-watt of 500 watts, GPU temps in mid 30s and CPU temps at low 50s.
Quote:


> What do you guys and gals use for lightning that look great inside the EP and where do you place them? I've gone through led fans (too smokey), corsairs led strips (awful bugs) and ccfl's (too hard to hide)


Well when the lightning is bad I unplug the computer even tho house has protection and Im ona UPS ..... oops.... taking the "n" out.....I don't like the UV stiff and to my mind colored lighting takes away from components with strong aesthetic qualities (I.e. M6F, Mushkin Ridgebacks, acrylic tube / colored coolant) .... so I used bright white LED strip completely hidden which lets you see the component design in clear detail.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gunilla95*
> 
> Hate braking it to you. But.. Thats not me.
> I have this girl as Avatar becouse she's simply hot :3
> 
> but yes i been havin fullcases my entire life so im pretty strong now..


I guessed as much ..... hot goilz usually have ugly man avatar so they don't get hit on









For me it would be the trips .....

1st trip w/ Enthoo
2nd trip w/ KB / Mouse / Pad
3rd Trip w/ Mnitor
4th trip w/ cables

Speaker would be another 3 trips... joystick and throttle another

By the time I unloaded at LAN party I'd wanan go to bed..... and mu house has lotsa stairs .... after front steps to get in, it's two flights of 6-7 to my office where computer is.

My 3rd son once asked why we didn't have any more children after him .... with 5 flights 4-7-6-7-3 from the den to the master bedroom, by the time I got there was too tired for frolicking.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> [...] My 3rd son once asked why we didn't have any more children after him .... with 5 flights 4-7-6-7-3 from the den to the master bedroom, by the time I got there was too tired for frolicking.


Sounds like it's past time for one of these Jack ...



That may help explain this ...
Quote:


> Sexed-up seniors do it more than you'd think
> Unprecedented US survey finds older people lead steamy private lives
> http://www.nbcnews.com/id/20395061/ns/health-sexual_health/t/sexed-up-seniors-do-it-more-youd-think/#.Uwz67rSc7nm


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Yeah.... but the other problem is ..... by the time that guy gets there, he forgot why he was going there


----------



## renkenkyo

I'm thinking of the following setup below:



Radiator: XSPC AX480 (Top), AX280 (bottom)
Fans: 4x Gentle Typhoon AP-15 (Top), Phanteks PH-F140SP (2x Bottom)
Pump: Swiftech D5 PWM
Res/Top: Monsoon 5.25" Bay Res
Fittings: 1/2" Barbs, 5x Koolance QD3 pairs, Swiftech SLI connectors
Tubing: 7/16 Tygon or other (any suggestions for good UV blue tubing without plasticize issues?)

If I ran two loops on the Monsoon, would the temperatures even out since it's a shared reservoir? This might be a cleaner setup since I could pipe the cards separate to the gpu and still get the cooling benefits of the 480 for the gpus.

Any suggestions/thoughts?


----------



## ADragg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *renkenkyo*
> 
> I'm thinking of the following setup below:
> 
> 
> 
> Radiator: XSPC AX480 (Top), AX280 (bottom)
> Fans: 4x Gentle Typhoon AP-15 (Top), Phanteks PH-F140SP (2x Bottom)
> Pump: Swiftech D5 PWM
> Res/Top: Monsoon 5.25" Bay Res
> Fittings: 1/2" Barbs, 5x Koolance QD3 pairs, Swiftech SLI connectors
> Tubing: 7/16 Tygon or other (any suggestions for good UV blue tubing without plasticize issues?)
> 
> If I ran two loops on the Monsoon, would the temperatures even out since it's a shared reservoir? This might be a cleaner setup since I could pipe the cards separate to the gpu and still get the cooling benefits of the 480 for the gpus.
> 
> Any suggestions/thoughts?


Just a thought but you could go with a 420 rad and save a little space as well as have less fans to buy. A 420 actually has a bit more capacity than a 480. Then you could use the Phanteks fans on it if you wanted, which might do a bit better than the GT's, though those are still pretty good fans.

Any reason you're going with a bay res instead of a tube res on the stock bracket? Even with as quiet as a D5 is, I find that it's probably the most audible thing in my system, and it's a standalone pump mounted in the bottom of the case on the included mount with rubber isolation. A bay res is usually going to be noticeably noisier.

Also the GPU blocks are usually going to have the connections much more centered, not toward the back of the case like that, so the connections are going to be centered above the bottom radiator and therefore it doesn't make so much sense to mount the radiator with the ports toward the back of the case like that. Just though I'd mention that since if you mount it with the ports toward the front, you can avoid that super long tubing run coming from the res and it will be hidden mostly by the "wall".


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *renkenkyo*
> 
> I'm thinking of the following setup below:
> 
> 
> 
> Radiator: XSPC AX480 (Top), AX280 (bottom)
> Fans: 4x Gentle Typhoon AP-15 (Top), Phanteks PH-F140SP (2x Bottom)
> Pump: Swiftech D5 PWM
> Res/Top: Monsoon 5.25" Bay Res
> Fittings: 1/2" Barbs, 5x Koolance QD3 pairs, Swiftech SLI connectors
> Tubing: 7/16 Tygon or other (any suggestions for good UV blue tubing without plasticize issues?)
> 
> If I ran two loops on the Monsoon, would the temperatures even out since it's a shared reservoir? This might be a cleaner setup since I could pipe the cards separate to the gpu and still get the cooling benefits of the 480 for the gpus.
> 
> Any suggestions/thoughts?


A couple thoughts.
- I don't think XSPC makes an AX280. I suspect you mean the EX280.
- Just a note with regards to the diagram. You have the top rad positioned mostly in the area for fans on top of the case under the filter cover, higher than it would actually sit. Here's more how it would mount with rad in blue and fans in red, shown in push-pull with fans on top and bottom. I know you're just planning on going with fans just in push or pull, so hopefully this ought to give you an idea where they will actually sit whether you decide to put them on top or bottom. Note that if you just have fans on top of a 480 rad, it won't block any of the top 5.25" bay.



- Also. I agree with ADragg as far as tube res > bay res, but I'm not sure two 780 hydrocoppers (I think that's what you meant by HC) will fit with the Enthoo Primo's res bracket in place. If they will it would be a tight fit, and might require dremeling out a bit of the bracket.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *renkenkyo*
> 
> Radiator: XSPC AX480 (Top), AX280 (bottom)
> Fans: 4x Gentle Typhoon AP-15 (Top), Phanteks PH-F140SP (2x Bottom)
> Pump: Swiftech D5 PWM
> Res/Top: Monsoon 5.25" Bay Res
> Fittings: 1/2" Barbs, 5x Koolance QD3 pairs, Swiftech SLI connectors
> Tubing: 7/16 Tygon or other (any suggestions for good UV blue tubing without plasticize issues?)
> 
> If I ran two loops on the Monsoon, would the temperatures even out since it's a shared reservoir? This might be a cleaner setup since I could pipe the cards separate to the gpu and still get the cooling benefits of the 480 for the gpus.
> 
> Any suggestions/thoughts?


I'd echo the 420 recommendations .... full details just a few pages back but:

1. 420 has slightly more rad surface area
2. 420 uses less fans therefore less noise
3. 420 is substantially cheaper both for rad and fans

XT45-420 is $85 / UT60-420 is $105
XT45-480 is $105 / UT460-480 is $130 + 2 more fans

4. 420 can use same Phanteks fans
5. 420 allows use of top 5.25 drive bay for a fan controller even w/ P/P fans
6. 420 allows you to access top rad ports for filling
7. 420 is easier to pipe.

As for thickness .... there is very little performance difference from the 30mm all the way up to the 80mm... for example, with 480 @ 1250 rpm

30mm - 291 watts
45mm - 296
60mm - 303
89mm - 318

45mm is an easy fit and no access issues in push / pull
60mm fits but may block access to or block view of various features components in push / pull, so check and see if you have anything up there that would be a concern.

If ya haven't bought yet, the Alphacool has several feature advantages (i.e screw protectors) and performance advantage over other brands.,

The AP14's (11th place) don't quite match the Phanteks fans (1st place) in pushing air thru air cooler fins.... not sure how different the 15s are .... the HS is the same as teh SP from Phanteks except for mounting. Both Scythe and Noiseblocker have new models coming out which I'm sure will be aimed at equaling or beating the Phanteks fan

http://www.silentpcreview.com/article1345-page7.html

Tygon makes many different products, each designed for specific properties. Check the Tygon Owners Club thread for details. But for example, E-1000 is very flexible, performs much like PrimoChill's advanced LRT. E-1000 like many so called "plasticizer free" tubings is not actually free of plasticizers .... it's free of "DEHP [Bis (2-ethylhexyl) phthalate] plasticizers" which are the type everyone worries about. The Tygon 2475 OTOH is free of any type of plasticizer tho w/ no plasticizers it's a bit stiff ..... like "give someone a beatin w/ a runner hose" kinda stiff and therefore a 180 bend in less than 3 inches or so would kink. It;s extremely resistant to water absorption (staining) tho. I use rigid acrylic in my build but used 2475 at pump connections and for drain line to bucket that I keep in a drawer for maintenance time

If ya don't need 6 HD bays, Id suggest taking the lower cage out and mounting the pump there. I put a 35x2 in there mounted on its little heat sink stand ... and Phanteks does allow the provided pump anti vibration mounting pad to be mounted there. Always beneficial to have pump at low point .... and ya may wanna consider reversing the 280 and going right from pump to the inlet which is now much closer. This allows you to use a drain port out of the rad for maintenance purposes.

Personally not a fan of bay reservoirs ..... they tend to be noisy and difficult to fill, not to mention some reported leakage at seam issues. Much prefer the cyclindrical tube type which has no seams, hold more liquid and doesn't vibrate nor rattle against anything..... doesn't always happen but reported often enuff to be a concern.

On that note, which 780 you choose will be important. Anything over 10.6" precludes the use of the res bracket at least as designed. A 10.6" long card will fit with a 60mm res using the predrilled holes on the mounting bracket *if* ya use the EK Clean water block which is 1" shorter than the other two. The Asus 780s (10.5") are the top performers outside the Classified and Lightning. The EVGA Hydrocoppers scored very poorly on xtremerigs thermal performance testing BTW.

Now some pics....

Why a 420 ..... access to top ports .... 30mm extension and plug puts the a hair under top grille. 2nd pic is fill tube extension




why a 280 .....drain port w/ quik disconnect on right


----------



## smoke420

After receiving two broken Enthoo Primo's in a row from Newegg getting worse each time. I decided to keep the case, do my build and just get a replacement front panel from Phanteks. A little more than one month after my original order I finally receive my replacement front panel from Phanteks. Can you believe I received broken parts from them as well. One of the clips that hold the front fan cover on was broken on the replacement front panel. On top of that the replacement parts came with no return label. My build is done but I have a broken front panel sitting in a box with no return label and still have a broken clip on my brand new case.
I would love to know what the Phanteks rep thinks of my situation. Feel free to PM me..

Edit: After getting in contact with the Phanteks rep I have to say, they have great service. Thank you so much brian-phanteks for responding and helping so quickly.


----------



## renkenkyo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> I'd echo the 420 recommendations .... full details just a few pages back but:
> 
> 1. 420 has slightly more rad surface area
> 2. 420 uses less fans therefore less noise
> 3. 420 is substantially cheaper both for rad and fans
> 
> XT45-420 is $85 / UT60-420 is $105
> XT45-480 is $105 / UT460-480 is $130 + 2 more fans
> 
> 4. 420 can use same Phanteks fans
> 5. 420 allows use of top 5.25 drive bay for a fan controller even w/ P/P fans
> 6. 420 allows you to access top rad ports for filling
> 7. 420 is easier to pipe.
> 
> As for thickness .... there is very little performance difference from the 30mm all the way up to the 80mm... for example, with 480 @ 1250 rpm
> 
> 30mm - 291 watts
> 45mm - 296
> 60mm - 303
> 89mm - 318
> 
> 45mm is an easy fit and no access issues in push / pull
> 60mm fits but may block access to or block view of various features components in push / pull, so check and see if you have anything up there that would be a concern.
> 
> If ya haven't bought yet, the Alphacool has several feature advantages (i.e screw protectors) and performance advantage over other brands.,


Lots of good info from the different guys here. It seems having a 420 on top is not only cheaper, but is easier for mounting and accessing so +1 for that. Has anyone done a round up on 420mm rads?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> The AP14's (11th place) don't quite match the Phanteks fans (1st place) in pushing air thru air cooler fins.... not sure how different the 15s are .... the HS is the same as teh SP from Phanteks except for mounting. Both Scythe and Noiseblocker have new models coming out which I'm sure will be aimed at equaling or beating the Phanteks fan
> 
> http://www.silentpcreview.com/article1345-page7.html


If you look at the fan roundup down by martin liquid labs, on a RAD, the best fan for the noise is still the Gentle Typhoons in the 120mm category. Radiators require a high back pressure and also have different airflow pattern then CPU coolers. Now I do know the Phantek 140-sp does get some great reviews so I think they will be more than adequate and are more affordable than the GT's especially now that they are out of production.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> Tygon makes many different products, each designed for specific properties. Check the Tygon Owners Club thread for details. But for example, E-1000 is very flexible, performs much like PrimoChill's advanced LRT. E-1000 like many so called "plasticizer free" tubings is not actually free of plasticizers .... it's free of "DEHP [Bis (2-ethylhexyl) phthalate] plasticizers" which are the type everyone worries about. The Tygon 2475 OTOH is free of any type of plasticizer tho w/ no plasticizers it's a bit stiff ..... like "give someone a beatin w/ a runner hose" kinda stiff and therefore a 180 bend in less than 3 inches or so would kink. It;s extremely resistant to water absorption (staining) tho. I use rigid acrylic in my build but used 2475 at pump connections and for drain line to bucket that I keep in a drawer for maintenance time


This is good to know, especially if the Tygon is cheaper and more reliable than the PrimoChill Advanced. Though if I wanted them in UV blue I'd probably have to go with Primo.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> If ya don't need 6 HD bays, Id suggest taking the lower cage out and mounting the pump there. I put a 35x2 in there mounted on its little heat sink stand ... and Phanteks does allow the provided pump anti vibration mounting pad to be mounted there. Always beneficial to have pump at low point .... and ya may wanna consider reversing the 280 and going right from pump to the inlet which is now much closer. This allows you to use a drain port out of the rad for maintenance purposes.
> 
> Personally not a fan of bay reservoirs ..... they tend to be noisy and difficult to fill, not to mention some reported leakage at seam issues. Much prefer the cyclindrical tube type which has no seams, hold more liquid and doesn't vibrate nor rattle against anything..... doesn't always happen but reported often enuff to be a concern.


The only reason I was considering the Monsoon was that video reviews on youtube showed it was wisper quiet and I could see fluid levels from the front. If I got a seperate res/pump combo do you have any suggestions?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> On that note, which 780 you choose will be important. Anything over 10.6" precludes the use of the res bracket at least as designed. A 10.6" long card will fit with a 60mm res using the predrilled holes on the mounting bracket *if* ya use the EK Clean water block which is 1" shorter than the other two. The Asus 780s (10.5") are the top performers outside the Classified and Lightning. The EVGA Hydrocoppers scored very poorly on xtremerigs thermal performance testing BTW.


As far as the Hydro-Coopers I bough them from a member here for a really good price so I don't think it's worth the cost of buying a different block so I'll probably end up sticking with those.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> Now some pics....
> Why a 420 ..... access to top ports .... 30mm extension and plug puts the a hair under top grille. 2nd pic is fill tube extension
> why a 280 .....drain port w/ quik disconnect on right


Both of these are great ideas. Do you have the QD on the bottom facing towards the windowed part of the case or towards the pump?
I'm guessing you hav your loop setup something like res -> pump -> rad ->gpu -> cpu ->rad -> res?


----------



## ADragg

renkenkyo, the Phanteks are great fans and are very well suited for use on rads. I don't think you'd get any better performance with GT's, in fact I'd bet on the PH being better, but it's kind of hard to compare since they're different sizes and therefore don't use the same size rads, so a fair comparison couldn't be done.

If you do need 120's somewhere in your system, the Noiseblocker fans are outstanding. They're also build for use with rads and are just as quiet (I think maybe slightly quieter) than the GT's. And they're readily available (not cheap, though) and look a lot better in my opinion. Especially if you're going with a mix of 140 and 120's, the Noiseblocker eLoops are a fan that look pretty good alongside the Phanteks fans IMO.

I am currently building another build in a Caselabs case with a 240 in the front and a 280 in the roof and am doing a mix of PH and eLoop fans. When I first tested the eLoops it was on a new fan controller (Reeven Six Eyes since the white one matches my white case) and I thought it was broken because it was saying the fans were spinning over 1300 RPM's and they were still very quiet. That's with 4 eLoops in push pull, too. I got Alphacool 30mm thin rads for this build specifically because of how well they perform at low fan speeds and the eLoops and PH-140's will give me plenty of static pressure at silent speeds. Oh, also look at the Noiseblocker M12's if you want something different. They perform basically the same as the eLoops but they have a very different understated design that I like a lot and SilentPCReview compared them with GT's and they were pretty much exactly on par with each other but they preferred the M12's slightly for their tonal characteristics. So that's another great 120 to consider and I think the design is really cool.

Also, as Jack says, thickness really isn't going to do much in rad performance. I've seen results like the ones he posted where thicker rads barely showed performance increases and I've also seen huge rad round-ups where they tested at different fan RPM's and it actually showed thinner rads performing better at lower speeds and it took very high speeds for the 80mm Monsta rads to perform better. That's why I specifically went thin because I like the look of thin rads and push pull and they seem to perform even slightly better at low speed, which is what water cooling is mostly about for me - better temps AND silence. If you're going for a quiet PC, I'd stay with thinner rads. Even if the performance was exactly the same, the thicker rad is still going to restrict the fan flow so there's less static pressure and passive exhaust.


----------



## ADragg

Also, before going with Tygon, consider what coolant you'll use. If you're using Mayhems (or at least Mayhems Pastel), I think the only recommended tubing is the PrimoChill (whatever the latest stuff is, Advance LRT?). I thought Tygon was one of the ones that was incompatible. Whatever the newest PrimoChill is is the one that you're supposed to use last I heard. I forget exactly but do your homework on that.

I have been using the Primochill (though I'm currently switching to hard acrylic) and it has worked great with Pastel so far. Now I've got like $100 worth of 3 month old gold Monsoon fittings and a bunch of unused Primochill tubing that I have no use for. Not to mention the new 280mm UT60 and 420mm XT45 I installed 3 months ago in the Enthoo that I've dismantled. Really sad taking apart such a nice build in a nice case that I only built a few months ago. I already kind of regret it but I was really excited about my Caselabs build and it's coming together really well. Huge waste of money on tubings, fittings, and rads that are too big to put in the Caselabs, though. At least everything else will be re-used.


----------



## ADragg

Here's some of the final pics of the Enthoo before/while I started taking it apart.














































And a little progress on the new build, just for fun.









Acrylic Windows on both sides and top, but it's still covered in the protective brown paper it comes with


















Sent from my HTC One using Tapatalk


----------



## rpjkw11

Please tell me about the covering you added to the back of the HDD cage. That looks great and adds so much to your mod. I think something like that would look very nice on my EP as well as the white EP I plan to get soon. Thanks for the post!


----------



## CoopsTHC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rpjkw11*
> 
> Please tell me about the covering you added to the back of the HDD cage. That looks great and adds so much to your mod. I think something like that would look very nice on my EP as well as the white EP I plan to get soon. Thanks for the post!


Its just sticky back carbon fibre vinyl. I bought mine off ebay.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *renkenkyo*
> 
> If you look at the fan roundup down by martin liquid labs, on a RAD, the best fan for the noise is still the Gentle Typhoons in the 120mm category. Radiators require a high back pressure and also have different airflow pattern then CPU coolers. Now I do know the Phantek 140-sp does get some great reviews so I think they will be more than adequate and are more affordable than the GT's especially now that they are out of production.


Martin does great work ..... what's on the site is the best work I have seen on the subject, but given his vacation from testing fans in recent times, the data has become quite outdated (most of it done in 2010) and other than the few fans he added in I think in late 2012 / early 2013, in that doesn't reflect most of the new designs available today. Any test can only indicate relative performance to other products in the test. Of course if A beats B and B beats C, then it's logical to assume that A beats C.

So while the GTs were the best of the best then.....today's newer designs are not in the comparison. And since we have seen a flip flop in air cooler testing .... in past years 120mm fans dominated, now 140's dominate ..... we know 'things have changed". I can't say definitively what's better on Rads until I see hard data .... tho there is one site I posted results from here once (damned if I can find it again) .... but air coolers do present much of the same challenges as rads, even more so as there fin spacing on air coolers compared to current rads is much tighter. In "the ole days" of 30 fpi rads, and at high speeds I think 120mm's will still be preferable, but at low speeds and 9 - 12 fpi, the I'm thinking the 140s will match or exceed thermal performance while being noticeably quieter.
Quote:


> This is good to know, especially if the Tygon is cheaper and more reliable than the PrimoChill Advanced. Though if I wanted them in UV blue I'd probably have to go with Primo.


The 2475 is more expensive I think at $2.75 / LF .... I worked in a testing lab for a few years .... and regularly visit the place as they do all my lab work, they only use Tygon. But again... with no plasticizer of any kind (that **is** what makes tubing flexible), the 2475 is quite stiff and may not be suited with radii > 1.5". Given it's water absorption properties it's probably waaaay overkill for water cooling

As for the Noiseblockers.... yes, you'll note that the NB was the only 120mm in the top 5 in the SPCR testing. They also have a new 140mm line coming out soon.
Quote:


> The only reason I was considering the Monsoon was that video reviews on youtube showed it was wisper quiet and I could see fluid levels from the front. If I got a separate res/pump combo do you have any suggestions?


If you put the res/pump on a towel on a test bench, I imagine it would be whisper quiet..... but all pumps produce vibration and when the res rattles in the bay is where the noise generally comes from Pick something to fit ya goals ..... I went with the 35x2 . It's martin's fav, and the things I liked about it were.

a) Beastly performance especially pressure wise
b) Two pumps provide redundancy....if one dies, your system isn't down
c) Two 35x's at 50% speed are quieter than a single D5
d) It imparts less heat into the loop (optional heat sink recommended)
e) PWM Contolled

But at $199 it ain't cheap. It mounts nicely under the top HD cage if ya take lower one out....You'll need a 2nd Pump Mount .... I got one thanks to a donation from Jesse at ModZoo, it was better than version 1 of my fabricated mount. If not the 35x2, then Id get a single D5
Quote:


> As far as the Hydro-Coopers I bough them from a member here for a really good price so I don't think it's worth the cost of buying a different block so I'll probably end up sticking with those.


I did a lot of skipping on the video so meybe ya wanna go thru and see why they didn't perform well. perhaps it can be addressed if it was a matter say of low flow, than a beefier pump system might help. Search on youtube "Titan Water Blcok Roundup extremerigs" ..... the Titan uses the same WB as the 780. I seem to recall that EK made the HC WB so if that's correct, don't understand why the EK aftermarket block does so well and the HC did so poorly.
Quote:


> Both of these are great ideas. Do you have the QD on the bottom facing towards the windowed part of the case or towards the pump?


If ya look at the 2nd pic, you can see it comes out facing the window just tot he left of the drive bay cover.
Quote:


> I'm guessing you hav your loop setup something like res -> pump -> rad ->gpu -> cpu ->rad -> res?


Yup

Each time I post this, it's bit embarrassing as I haven't done my sleeving yet.



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rpjkw11*
> 
> Please tell me about the covering you added to the back of the HDD cage. That looks great and adds so much to your mod. I think something like that would look very nice on my EP as well as the white EP I plan to get soon. Thanks for the post!


http://mnpctech.com/pc-mod-vinyl-wrap-graphics-modding-films-sticker/di-noc-carbon-fiber-film-sheet/di-noc-carbon-fiber.html


----------



## Redspeed93

I'm going to buy the white Enthoo Primo when it arrives and I'm currently trying to figure out where to mount the radiators. Would it be possible to mount a 240mm rad on the "inside" of the HDD cages - "inside" as in on the motherboard side, facing the GPUs?

Also, how far can you move the cages towards the front? Would it be possible to run let's say a 40mm think 240mm rad in push/pull on the aforementioned position without hitting a pair of GTX 780 Ti's(those are 27cm long)?


----------



## JackNaylorPE

There's nice pics and tables in the Case Manual

1. A 240 fits behind the front fans with the cages in the back position.

2. You can mount a rad behind the HD cages .....check Unicron's posts .... as i recall he's done this. No res on bracket then tho. Check the dimensions drawing in post #1000

3. If you have a rad in the front, you can't move the HD cages forward.

4. An XT45-420 on top and a UT60-280 on the bottom results in teh following for a 4770k @ 4.6GHz and twin 780 / 780 Tis w/ 25% OC. That's what I have in push only and with Phanteks SP140s at 1200 rpm under Furmark I see ....

8.4C Delta T with case mounted an inch above desk and fan grilles removed.
12.8C Delta T with case on desk and grills filters in.
15.5 Delta T as above with 850 rpm fan speed.

GPU temps are at 39C at 1200rpm and 44c at 850 rpm
CPU temps are at 74-5C under RoG Real Bench at 850 rpm

In gaming, CPU is in high 50s, GFX mid 30s but I have toned down PCs while working out a BIOS problem

Expect to see about a 20% lower Delta T when I add the pull fans next week.


----------



## Redspeed93

Yeah but I need to know the exact distance between the fan mounting holes on the 2 HDD cages (which hopefully is 15mm) to be able to determine if a 240mm radiator can be mounted in the first place. If someone with an Enthoo Primo were to pull out a measuring tape I'd be grateful!









I have no intention of having a radiator on the outwards facing side of the HDD cages. As far as I can figure out there should be a few centimeters left between my videocards and a 40mm push/pull radiator if the cages are relocated towards the front of the case.


----------



## Roxycon

from phanteks fb page:



posted 4 min ago


----------



## xCloudyHorizon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roxycon*
> 
> from phanteks fb page:
> 
> 
> 
> posted 4 min ago


Just when I bought four 140SP's last week...


----------



## Roxycon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xCloudyHorizon*
> 
> Just when I bought four 140SP's last week...


things like that happens to me ll the time


----------



## oicwutudidthar

Just got my primo and I got a couple questions,

My fan filter in the front does not have the screws, it just has some plastic clips holding it in, is this a new revision? Also, it seems like the windows on the left side panel are tinted, is this also new?


----------



## Roxycon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *oicwutudidthar*
> 
> Just got my primo and I got a couple questions,
> 
> My fan filter in the front does not have the screws, it just has some plastic clips holding it in, is this a new revision? Also, it seems like the windows on the left side panel are tinted, is this also new?


no screws are new revision and the tint have always been there


----------



## oicwutudidthar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roxycon*
> 
> no screws are new revision and the tint have always been there


do you know if there were any other revisions made?


----------



## Roxycon

only the two but there was such minor changes so they didnt distinct them from each other









but they will soon release a all white EP and the limited edition two toned color options


----------



## Ouro

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roxycon*
> 
> from phanteks fb page:
> 
> 
> 
> posted 4 min ago


Still can't pre-order any of the goodies I want though









edit: Fudge it, I'm going with 140 series fans. YOLOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO


----------



## oicwutudidthar

Ok, one issue I am having is with some of the tooling,

The holes that holed the side panels on on the bottom seem to not have been drilled out correctly as they are very difficult to get in.


----------



## simsim44

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *oicwutudidthar*
> 
> Ok, one issue I am having is with some of the tooling,
> 
> The holes that holed the side panels on on the bottom seem to not have been drilled out correctly as they are very difficult to get in.


On my back panel I have some stressing to get it in, first thought I had a cable in the way but no, the panel seems to be a little tweaked. And it's only on the back panel.


----------



## brian-phanteks

I have noticed that, sometimes the magnetic filter moves a little getting wedged between the chassis and the side panel causing the thumbscrew to be difficult to install. You may want to check to see if that solves the problem.


----------



## simsim44

thanks I hadn't thought about the screen.


----------



## Spriggan43

Anyone with a problem with creaking noise from the case, I think its comming form the window, any way to fix this?


----------



## stilllogicz

So I'm sure this has been asked but what does Enthoo Primo mean and what language is it?


----------



## Roxycon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spriggan43*
> 
> Anyone with a problem with creaking noise from the case, I think its comming form the window, any way to fix this?


it is the windows, the one thing wold be some foam in between the acrylic and the door, but the noises go away just give it some time








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stilllogicz*
> 
> So I'm sure this has been asked but what does Enthoo Primo mean and what language is it?


i think it was narrowed down to enthusiast one, it was their first case and geared towards enthusiast.. as for language i would guess Latin (both genders) or Italian if it's meant for just boys


----------



## ADragg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rpjkw11*
> 
> Please tell me about the covering you added to the back of the HDD cage. That looks great and adds so much to your mod. I think something like that would look very nice on my EP as well as the white EP I plan to get soon. Thanks for the post!


It's a very simple and cheap product I got from FrozenCPU. I believe it's made my 3M and it's just a "carbon fiber" wrap. It's textured almost cloth-like and is very moldable so you can use it on pretty much anything. Comes in all colors, including white, red, etc. This is obviously the gold to match my motherboard, tan sleeving, fittings, etc. Was a cool idea that I'm glad I did because the stuff is very nice looking even up close. It doesn't look like some fake screen printed carbon fiber. Quality stuff for the money. I've seen people use it on the sides of radiators or to wrap entire cases, etc. Like I said, it's very flexible so if you're crafty enough, you could wrap pretty much anything in it.

It would add a lot of character to the white Enthoo with white carbon fiber wrap. It wouldn't stick out as much, but would add a subtle touch of character. Obviously it's also meant to be seen through the window, that's why it's just cut square like that, because normally you only see the gold through the window. If you used the same stuff in white in the same place on a white Enthoo, that would look awesome but subtle. I do wish the white Enthoo had tint-less windows, though. I guess the tint matches the black and white theme but i wish it was less black and more "pure white" with clear windows. I feel like white cases are meant to be blank canvases that really show off the hardware but really take a well planned and clean build because there's no room for messy cables and such in a clean white build. Everything has to be sleeved and cleaned up and color matched, etc. That's what I'm going for in the Caselabs build I posted. Alright, now I'm just rambling on.


----------



## ADragg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spriggan43*
> 
> Anyone with a problem with creaking noise from the case, I think its comming form the window, any way to fix this?


It's a very common thing. Mine creaked quite a lot at first but as time went on it went away almost completely. Still get an occasional creak but they're fewer and further between. Just give it a few months to settle.


----------



## Propanelgen

Hey, I'm a long time lurker, just made an account here now.
I'm looking for a fitting case for my new build, and the Enthoo Primo caught my eye.
I've been reading this whole thread, and have a few concerns, biggest one is the fact that Phanteks have made a box where you can fit almost everything you want, but totally forgot about airflow, especially at the bottom.
I will have the case standing on my desk, so really dont want to have some sort of stand for it to lift it up.
How big of an issue is the airflow really?
I'm planning on having an Alphacool UT60 280mm in push/pull config with Phanteks fans at the bottom, in addition to an Alphacool UT60 480mm in push/pull at the top.
I anticipate running the fans at 1200 rpm.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Propanelgen*
> 
> Hey, I'm a long time lurker, just made an account here now.
> I'm looking for a fitting case for my new build, and the Enthoo Primo caught my eye.
> I've been reading this whole thread, and have a few concerns, biggest one is the fact that Phanteks have made a box where you can fit almost everything you want, but totally forgot about airflow, especially at the bottom.
> I will have the case standing on my desk, so really dont want to have some sort of stand for it to lift it up.
> How big of an issue is the airflow really?
> I'm planning on having an Alphacool UT60 280mm in push/pull config with Phanteks fans at the bottom, in addition to an Alphacool UT60 480mm in push/pull at the top.
> I anticipate running the fans at 1200 rpm.


You should be fine. Keep in mind how many owners have big radiators in the bottom and are having no problems cooling. The longer the bottom radiator, the more air needed, the more the potential problem. In a perfect world more vent area to bottom is nice. But the Enthoo Primo cools very well as it is.


----------



## MrInkless

So I've been a long time lurker and finallycreated an account. The main question I have about this Case is the double ssd bracket. I've had a hard time in the past powering 2 Ssds so close together because I can't seem to get the power cable to plug into things so close together. Is there some obvious solution l am missing? Are you suppose to use a splitter of some sort?

My Psu is the Corsair Hx850


----------



## Propanelgen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> You should be fine. Keep in mind how many owners have big radiators in the bottom and are having no problems cooling. The longer the bottom radiator, the more air needed, the more the potential problem. In a perfect world more vent area to bottom is nice. But the Enthoo Primo cools very well as it is.


I'm convinced, I will go ahead and order!


----------



## Gunilla95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrInkless*
> 
> So I've been a long time lurker and finallycreated an account. The main question I have about this Case is the double ssd bracket. I've had a hard time in the past powering 2 Ssds so close together because I can't seem to get the power cable to plug into things so close together. Is there some obvious solution l am missing? Are you suppose to use a splitter of some sort?
> 
> My Psu is the Corsair Hx850


Im using a splitter just like this one,


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Redspeed93*
> 
> Yeah but I need to know the exact distance between the fan mounting holes on the 2 HDD cages (which hopefully is 15mm) to be able to determine if a 240mm radiator can be mounted in the first place. If someone with an Enthoo Primo were to pull out a measuring tape I'd be grateful!


I'm not sure what your asking but the fan mounting holes are put there so as to mount a 120mm fan.....IOW, the holes are all sat the standard 120mm fan spacing, 105mm apart from each other. Luckily I took one of the cages out and it's sitting under my desk....otherwise wuda been PITA to measure.

http://www.mnpctech.3dpixelnet.com/picture_library/mnpctech.com_80_92_120_140_fan_grill_templates_rv2.pdf

Of course you ony have about 2.50" to 2.75" between the HD cage and a 280 in the bottom.... so putting a rad and set of fans in that location simply means no bottom 280 tho you could squeeze an XT45 in push pull if ya used a 240 and gave up the side ports on ya bottom rad and located the vertically mounted rad with ports up top..... Of all possible locations this would be the least effective rad in the build as there's no way around using pre-heated case air to cool this rad.

Quote:


> I have no intention of having a radiator on the outwards facing side of the HDD cages. As far as I can figure out there should be a few centimeters left between my videocards and a 40mm push/pull radiator if the cages are relocated towards the front of the case.


I am having trouble following you here as I don't see why this location is deemed of value:

-The top (420 or 480) and bottom (280 or 240) rads will provide well more than enough cooling for your proposed components with fresh / cool ambient air.
-Mounting a 240 at the front and / or right side panel allows use of cooler ambient air for cooling.
-The back of HD location will only have access to pre-heated interior case air.
-While I can confirm that you can fit two 120mm fans on those cages, I'm gonna say a 2x120mm rad won't work, reason being that the mounting holes between the two fans (vertically) will be about 30-32mm apart....You need half that for the two fans to butt up against one another as they would on a rad. You put fans on back of the HD cages, they will be 15-17mm apart.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spriggan43*
> 
> Anyone with a problem with creaking noise from the case, I think its comming form the window, any way to fix this?


Yes, was discussed at length earlier in the thread.....comes from differential thermal expansion contraction as the plexi is a |_| shape sitting in a channel and rubbing on 3 sides. LOther than graphite, oil or other type of lubricant, I came up with no ideas.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Propanelgen*
> 
> I've been reading this whole thread, and have a few concerns, biggest one is the fact that Phanteks have made a box where you can fit almost everything you want, but totally forgot about airflow, especially at the bottom.
> I will have the case standing on my desk, so really dont want to have some sort of stand for it to lift it up.
> How big of an issue is the airflow really?
> I'm planning on having an Alphacool UT60 280mm in push/pull config with Phanteks fans at the bottom, in addition to an Alphacool UT60 480mm in push/pull at the top.
> I anticipate running the fans at 1200 rpm.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spriggan43*
> 
> Anyone with a problem with creaking noise from the case, I think its comming form the window, any way to fix this?


Doyyl was the first to bring this up so be sure to get him to chime in on the topic .... in the meantime I'll add my observations.

1. Yes, intake from the bottom is somewhat limited due to the action of the fan filters and limited open area.
2. The effect at the bottom is going to very significant with a 480 on there.
3. Th effect with a 280 in there on the bottom is much less so as (my guess anyway) the intake fans under the rad will suck air coming in thru the front fans down thru the grille under the HD cages.
4. There is a similar *but much greater effect,* at least in my case, *from the top filter and grille*, which I confirmed by using temp in and out sensors in both rads. The 420 was giving me 0.9 - 1.0C delta T while the smaller 280 was giving me 1.3C delta T. Instead of 50% more cooling which logic dictates the 420 shuda gave me ....it was giving me 27% less and that's quite a swing....the top 420 (0.32C per fan) was half as affective as the 280 (0.66C per fan). Removing both sets of grilles and filters and lifting case up a bit decreased my Delta T from 12.8 to 8.4C

Now before ya get all down on the Enthoo be aware that air filters will have the same effect on the Enthoo as they will on any other case. Still I'd like to see if I could mount feet on the bugger .... something other than just grabbing 4 hockey pucks to sit it on.

I'd strongly advise using a 420 at the top over the 480.

1. 420 is $20 (XT45) - $25 (UT60) cheaper
2. Ya save anudder $35-$40 in fans.
3. 420 gives ya access to top rad ports to use for fill / bleed ports
4. Easier to pipe.
5. 480 means no use at all for top drive bay.....420 wont allow an optical but will allow a fan controller or even a fan.
6. 420 has 2% more (58,800 sqmm) of surface are for cooling as compared with 480s (57,600)
7. 420 allows rear fan to be mounted higher

Also note that the UT60-480 gives ya about 6-7 more watts of cooling than the XT45 at 1250 rpm. If going with teh UT60 in P/P, check what is at the top 15mm or so of ya MoBo and see if losing view or access to anything up there is a concern. For example if you are going to sleeve ya cables later on down the line, doing the EPS cable on my M6F wud require removing the pull fans to get access...it also blocked view of the diagnostic LCD panel and some other features so look at ya MoBo and see if there's anything that ya might miss having access to.....might / might not be worth the 6 watts but better to know what ya might be giving up going in then find out after ya opened the boxes.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrInkless*
> 
> So I've been a long time lurker and finallycreated an account. The main question I have about this Case is the double ssd bracket. I've had a hard time in the past powering 2 Ssds so close together because I can't seem to get the power cable to plug into things so close together. Is there some obvious solution l am missing? Are you suppose to use a splitter of some sort?
> 
> My Psu is the Corsair Hx850


I had no issue but take note that I dad have a routing issue at the default location. I removed that SSD mount and put it in a HD slider thingie and had no issue using a standard power cable.

Jack's Enthoo Primo 2 Suggestion No. 27b - Provided mounting holes for the SSD bracket in HD mount slider thingies.


----------



## stilllogicz

So guys I'm going to put a 480 Monsta in the bottom of this case to cool 3-4 R9 290's. I don't think that will be sufficient and will likely need another 120-240 rad somewhere in there. Agree/disagree?


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stilllogicz*
> 
> So guys I'm going to put a 480 Monsta in the bottom of this case to cool 3-4 R9 290's. I don't think that will be sufficient and will likely need another 120-240 rad somewhere in there. Agree/disagree?


4 290's and 1 cpu block? Yeah, you would need more than a 480 mm rad that's for sure. consider a 420 or 480 mm (45 mm ) on top too to have some leg room and perhaps a 240 mm (30 mm) in front.


----------



## rpjkw11

I haven't been following the new white Primos of late, but are they shipping or nearly so?


----------



## xCloudyHorizon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rpjkw11*
> 
> I haven't been following the new white Primos of late, but are they shipping or nearly so?


Supposed to be coming out late March.


----------



## simsim44

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrInkless*
> 
> So I've been a long time lurker and finallycreated an account. The main question I have about this Case is the double ssd bracket. I've had a hard time in the past powering 2 Ssds so close together because I can't seem to get the power cable to plug into things so close together. Is there some obvious solution l am missing? Are you suppose to use a splitter of some sort?
> 
> My Psu is the Corsair Hx850


Mounting two in one caddy is achieved by placing them so that the power/sata connections are at opposite ends, I have three in my case, all in the 2.5 drive caddies.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stilllogicz*
> 
> So guys I'm going to put a 480 Monsta in the bottom of this case to cool 3-4 R9 290's. I don't think that will be sufficient and will likely need another 120-240 rad somewhere in there. Agree/disagree?


I think the Enthoo may be a bit tight for four 290xs

1. Recognize that thickness barely does squat for ya. A Monsta 480 at 1250 rpm gives ya 326 while a XT45 rad 50% as thick gives ya 93% as much cooling at 302 watts
2. One 290x is about 287 watts stock.... with a 7% OC one 290x will be about 325 watts....add 140 watts for an OC'd 4770k

2 x 290x + 4770k = 790 watts x 60% min by rads ~ 475 watts ...... UT60-280 + XT45-420 @ 1250 rpm in P/P = 508 (I'll guess 9.3C Delta T)
3 x 290x + 4770k = 1115 watts x 60% min by rads ~ 670 watts .... UT60-480 + XT45-480 @ 1400 rpm in P/P = 668 8 (I'll guess 10.0C Delta T)
4 x 290x + 4770k = 1440 watts x 60% min by rads ~ 864 watts ..... UT60-480 + XT45-480 + ST30-240 @ 1400 rpm in P/P = 820 (I'll guess 10.5C Delta T)

Using a 2nd UT60 instead of the XT45 on top will net ya 10 watts at 1400 rpm.


----------



## stilllogicz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> 4 290's and 1 cpu block? Yeah, you would need more than a 480 mm rad that's for sure. consider a 420 or 480 mm (45 mm ) on top too to have some leg room and perhaps a 240 mm (30 mm) in front.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> I think the Enthoo may be a bit tight for four 290xs
> 
> 1. Recognize that thickness barely does squat for ya. A Monsta 480 at 1250 rpm gives ya 326 while a XT45 rad 50% as thick gives ya 93% as much cooling at 302 watts
> 2. One 290x is about 287 watts stock.... with a 7% OC one 290x will be about 325 watts....add 140 watts for an OC'd 4770k
> 
> 2 x 290x + 4770k = 790 watts x 60% min by rads ~ 475 watts ...... UT60-280 + XT45-420 @ 1250 rpm in P/P = 508 (I'll guess 9.3C Delta T)
> 3 x 290x + 4770k = 1115 watts x 60% min by rads ~ 670 watts .... UT60-480 + XT45-480 @ 1400 rpm in P/P = 668 8 (I'll guess 10.0C Delta T)
> 4 x 290x + 4770k = 1440 watts x 60% min by rads ~ 864 watts ..... UT60-480 + XT45-480 + ST30-240 @ 1400 rpm in P/P = 820 (I'll guess 10.5C Delta T)
> 
> Using a 2nd UT60 instead of the XT45 on top will net ya 10 watts at 1400 rpm.


I'm actually gonna be attempting a dual loop since that many 290's is gonna generate a ton of heat. So the rad size I mentioned will strictly be for the 290's. I'll be putting a 360-480 up top for the cpu, ram & motherboard blocks which I realize is overkill.

I need the top HDD cage so that limits me to only an extra 120mm rad in the front, totaling 600mm worth of rad for four 290's.


----------



## smoke420

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stilllogicz*
> 
> I'm actually gonna be attempting a dual loop since that many 290's is gonna generate a ton of heat. So the rad size I mentioned will strictly be for the 290's. I'll be putting a 360-480 up top for the cpu, ram & motherboard blocks which I realize is overkill.
> 
> I need the top HDD cage so that limits me to only an extra 120mm rad in the front, totaling 600mm worth of rad for four 290's.


Thats not actually true. You can put a 240 rad in front and keep the top hard drive cage. That is how my rig is setup, using the stock front 140mm led fans as push. The rad fits fine the bottom hard drive cage was removed for tubing and fittings.

I love the way this case is designed. I am using a 360 on top, a 360 on the bottom, a 240 in the front, and a 120 in the back with no modding needed. On top of that I was able to use all the stock 140mm fans even though my rads require 120mm fans. I was even able to hide the most of the tube.


----------



## stilllogicz

The reason I mentioned a 120mm in the front is because if I put the 480 in the bottom, it will take up the entire length of the case from front to back, leaving only space for a 120mm, unless I have this mistaken?


----------



## Propanelgen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> I'd strongly advise using a 420 at the top over the 480.
> 
> 1. 420 is $20 (XT45) - $25 (UT60) cheaper
> 2. Ya save anudder $35-$40 in fans.
> 3. 420 gives ya access to top rad ports to use for fill / bleed ports
> 4. Easier to pipe.
> 5. 480 means no use at all for top drive bay.....420 wont allow an optical but will allow a fan controller or even a fan.
> 6. 420 has 2% more (58,800 sqmm) of surface are for cooling as compared with 480s (57,600)
> 7. 420 allows rear fan to be mounted higher


These are all good points, but I already have the water cooling gear (except waterblock for my GTX 690, XSPC has been sold out so waiting for them to restock).
Quote:


> Also note that the UT60-480 gives ya about 6-7 more watts of cooling than the XT45 at 1250 rpm. If going with teh UT60 in P/P, check what is at the top 15mm or so of ya MoBo and see if losing view or access to anything up there is a concern. For example if you are going to sleeve ya cables later on down the line, doing the EPS cable on my M6F wud require removing the pull fans to get access...it also blocked view of the diagnostic LCD panel and some other features so look at ya MoBo and see if there's anything that ya might miss having access to.....might / might not be worth the 6 watts but better to know what ya might be giving up going in then find out after ya opened the boxes.
> I had no issue but take note that I dad have a routing issue at the default location. I removed that SSD mount and put it in a HD slider thingie and had no issue using a standard power cable.


I've got a M5F that I will move from current case. Not worried about drive bays at all, have no use for optical drive, haven't used one for 5 years or so.
I'm gonna keep the same clock (3770k @ 4.6 GHz) so hopefully I won't have to check the LCD diag panel.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stilllogicz*
> 
> The reason I mentioned a 120mm in the front is because if I put the 480 in the bottom, it will take up the entire length of the case from front to back, leaving only space for a 120mm, unless I have this mistaken?


420 mm top (xt45), 420 mm bottom (60 mm) and a 240mm (30 mm) front. That would give you more rad area that a monsta on the bottom and only a 120 mm front and probably quite adequate for your load (3-4 gpus and one block). I personally would not go with two loops but instead would have one loop with dual pumps if I was you. Just mine two cents and hope it helps.


----------



## renkenkyo

I think this is what I'm going to go with:

Alphacool NexXxoS XT45 Full Copper Dual 140mm Radiator $65.99

Alphacool NexXxoS XT45 Full Copper Triple 140mm Radiator $84.99

Swiftech MCP655-PWM-DRIVE 12v Water Pump Module - PWM Enabled (Single Version) $94.99

Alphacool Cape Corp Coolplex Pro 25 LT - 250mm $36.95

EK D5 X-Top Acetal Pump Top CSQ - Laing D5 & Swiftech MCP-650/655 (EK-D5 X-TOP CSQ - Acetal) $39.99 $39.99

PrimoChill PrimoFlex Advanced LRT Tubing 7/16"ID x 5/8" OD - 10ft Retail Pack - Brilliant UV Blue (PFLEXA10-758-B) w/ Free Sys Prep $24.99

Koolance QD3 Quick Disconnect No-Spill Coupling Male, Barb for ID 13mm (1/2in) (QD3-M13) $11.49

Koolance QD3 Quick Disconnect No-Spill Coupling Female, Threaded G 1/4 BSPP (QD3-FG4) $11.99

Phanteks PH-F140SP_LED - PH-F140SP_LED 4-pack $53.99

I'm still not sure where to mount the res as my vid cards are too long for the mounting plate.


----------



## Redspeed93

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> I'm not sure what your asking but the fan mounting holes are put there so as to mount a 120mm fan.....IOW, the holes are all sat the standard 120mm fan spacing, 105mm apart from each other. Luckily I took one of the cages out and it's sitting under my desk....otherwise wuda been PITA to measure.
> 
> http://www.mnpctech.3dpixelnet.com/picture_library/mnpctech.com_80_92_120_140_fan_grill_templates_rv2.pdf
> 
> Of course you ony have about 2.50" to 2.75" between the HD cage and a 280 in the bottom.... so putting a rad and set of fans in that location simply means no bottom 280 tho you could squeeze an XT45 in push pull if ya used a 240 and gave up the side ports on ya bottom rad and located the vertically mounted rad with ports up top..... Of all possible locations this would be the least effective rad in the build as there's no way around using pre-heated case air to cool this rad.


Allow my paint skillz to demonstrate what I'm rambling about


----------



## acanom

Hi everyone,

really stupid question, but what kind of screws did you/ do you use to install a 480mm rad in the bottom without pull fans?

I got only 25 and 35mm screws delivered with my rad so I most likely have to use other screws, because even if I´ll cut them the head is way to small

Any tips?


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stilllogicz*
> 
> I'm actually gonna be attempting a dual loop since that many 290's is gonna generate a ton of heat. So the rad size I mentioned will strictly be for the 290's. I'll be putting a 360-480 up top for the cpu, ram & motherboard blocks which I realize is overkill.
> 
> I need the top HDD cage so that limits me to only an extra 120mm rad in the front, totaling 600mm worth of rad for four 290's.


Your GPU Rads are way undersized and CPU / MoBo / RAM is way oversized

Two 290x's @ 325 x 2= 650 watts x 60% = 390 watts .... UT60-480 in P/P @ 1400 gives ya 339 which is just a little short. But using only a 240 to move up to 4 is 1300 watts of load cooled by the a Monsta 480 on the bottom at 360 watts and a ST30-240 which will add just 133 giving you 493 watts of cooling ..... 493 watts of cooling for a 1300 watt load is a bit light at only 38%.

1300 watts for the GFX
140 for the CPU (230 if going LGA2011)
4 sticks at 5 watts each = 20
40 watts for the pump waste heat
20 watts for MoBo VRMs
20 watts for chipset

1540 watts

I think ya really need to borrow some of the cooling from ya CPU loop for ya GPU loop. I'd do a single loop with the 4 cards in series / parallel .... that is set up cards 1 & 2 in parallel; set up 3&4 in parallel ...... and cards 3&4 follow 1&2 in series. I'd use a double pump like the 36x2 or two D5s in series.

1540 watts x 60% min by rads ~ 924 watts ..... UT60-480 in P/P on bottom (443) + XT45-480 in P/P (423) on top + ST30-240 in pull (110) in right panel @ 1800 rpm = 976

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Propanelgen*
> 
> I'm gonna keep the same clock (3770k @ 4.6 GHz) so hopefully I won't have to check the LCD diag panel.


Don't understand the reference to clocks and the diagnostic panel..... the panel shows boot errors. The Q-Codes displayed replace with greater detail, the old method of beeps for diagnosing build or hardware failure issues.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> 420 mm top (xt45), 420 mm bottom (60 mm) and a 240mm (30 mm) front. That would give you more rad area that a monsta on the bottom and only a 120 mm front and probably quite adequate for your load (3-4 gpus and one block). I personally would not go with two loops but instead would have one loop with dual pumps if I was you. Just mine two cents and hope it helps.


420 won't fit on bottom w/o some serious dremel work but I'd agree w/ all else

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *renkenkyo*
> 
> I think this is what I'm going to go with:
> 
> Alphacool NexXxoS XT45 Full Copper Dual 140mm Radiator $65.99
> 
> Alphacool NexXxoS XT45 Full Copper Triple 140mm Radiator $84.99
> 
> Swiftech MCP655-PWM-DRIVE 12v Water Pump Module - PWM Enabled (Single Version) $94.99
> 
> Alphacool Cape Corp Coolplex Pro 25 LT - 250mm $36.95
> 
> EK D5 X-Top Acetal Pump Top CSQ - Laing D5 & Swiftech MCP-650/655 (EK-D5 X-TOP CSQ - Acetal) $39.99 $39.99
> 
> PrimoChill PrimoFlex Advanced LRT Tubing 7/16"ID x 5/8" OD - 10ft Retail Pack - Brilliant UV Blue (PFLEXA10-758-B) w/ Free Sys Prep $24.99
> 
> Koolance QD3 Quick Disconnect No-Spill Coupling Male, Barb for ID 13mm (1/2in) (QD3-M13) $11.49
> 
> Koolance QD3 Quick Disconnect No-Spill Coupling Female, Threaded G 1/4 BSPP (QD3-FG4) $11.99
> 
> Phanteks PH-F140SP_LED - PH-F140SP_LED 4-pack $53.99
> 
> I'm still not sure where to mount the res as my vid cards are too long for the mounting plate.


I have very similar setup so would recommend the following.

1. Slide the top rad a bit towards the front ..... will allow easier piping and provide access to the top rad ports for filling / bleeding the loop.

2. I'd go from bottom rad => GPUs (in parallel) => Top Rad => CPU. Not a large effect but it is significant.... The temps coming out of my top rad are 1.3C lower going into the CPU so the cooler water does provide a slight cooling advantage.

3. Recommend parallel in that this sends half the flow thru the GPU blocks which due to their size can do their job at lower flow rate .... it also cuts down block resistance.

4. Newegg says these cards are 10.5" long ..... if they are correct, then you should have no problem getting the EK-Res 3-250 on the Mounting Bracket.... just have to take off the plastic cable hider thingie. With the 50mm res you listed could fit up to 10.8" cards......60mm can do 10.6".

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814130923

5. That's a lotta money on QDs. I'd be the last one to argue against overkill but if ya drain the loop, they kinda become superfluous.

6. No drain ? You can fit one nicely using the bottom port on the 280 rad ending with a QD.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Redspeed93*
> 
> Allow my paint skillz to demonstrate what I'm rambling about


That's what I guessed.... reposted from # 3156
Quote:


> -While I can confirm that you can fit two 120mm fans on those cages, I'm gonna say a 2x120mm rad won't work, reason being that the mounting holes between the two fans (vertically) *will be about 30-32mm apart*....You need half that for the two fans to butt up against one another as they would on a rad. You put fans on back of the HD cages, they [and here I mean the fan edges not the screws] will be 15-17mm apart.


----------



## acanom

I used the M3 5mm now hope they are not still too long.


----------



## Propanelgen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> Don't understand the reference to clocks and the diagnostic panel..... the panel shows boot errors. The Q-Codes displayed replace with greater detail, the old method of beeps for diagnosing build or hardware failure issues.


Yeah, that didn't make much sense, I agree








The point though, is that I am moving the MoBo as is, same cpu, same waterblock, same memory, same harddrives, so I don't expect any boot problems.
The only thing I will be changing is the powersupply (going from a XFX psu to Corsair AX1200i, and adding a waterblock to my GTX 690, in addition to adding the 280mm Alphacool UT60 rad.
Oh yeah, also adding another pump, so will have 2 MCP 655's for redundancy.

I've wanted to do a new build for some time, and after my pump died 2 months ago, I figured I should go with a whole new case for more space and being able to make a cleaner build.


----------



## Roxycon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *acanom*
> 
> I used the M3 5mm now hope they are not still too long.


i used the ssd mount screws for my top 480 rad


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *acanom*
> 
> Hi everyone,
> 
> really stupid question, but what kind of screws did you/ do you use to install a 480mm rad in the bottom without pull fans?
> 
> I got only 25 and 35mm screws delivered with my rad so I most likely have to use other screws, because even if I´ll cut them the head is way to small
> 
> Any tips?


Secret is ..... washers









Some sources of screws and washers here.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1439800/radiator-screws-how-come-we-only-get-half


----------



## acanom

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roxycon*
> 
> i used the ssd mount screws for my top 480 rad


Those are the M3 5mm if I´m not mistaken








If it worked out fine, I´m happy^^


----------



## Roxycon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *acanom*
> 
> Those are the M3 5mm if I´m not mistaken
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If it worked out fine, I´m happy^^


most likely







ended up needing some extra screws from back when i had a nzxt phantom since i now have 4 2,5" drives, so have that in mind when youre installing


----------



## acanom

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> Secrete is ..... washers
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some sources of screws and washers here.
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1439800/radiator-screws-how-come-we-only-get-half


Yeah, thought about waschers,too, but didn´t have any at hand and in Germany there are no stores open that sell washers at night or on sunday so I wanted to ask if somebody came up with another solution.

Thanks both of you!


----------



## Gabrielzm

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> Your GPU Rads are way undersized and CPU / MoBo / RAM is way oversized
> 
> Two 290x's @ 325 x 2= 650 watts x 60% = 390 watts .... UT60-480 in P/P @ 1400 gives ya 339 which is just a little short. But using only a 240 to move up to 4 is 1300 watts of load cooled by the a Monsta 480 on the bottom at 360 watts and a ST30-240 which will add just 133 giving you 493 watts of cooling ..... 493 watts of cooling for a 1300 watt load is a bit light at only 38%.
> 
> 1300 watts for the GFX
> 140 for the CPU (230 if going LGA2011)
> 4 sticks at 5 watts each = 20
> 40 watts for the pump waste heat
> 20 watts for MoBo VRMs
> 20 watts for chipset
> 
> 1540 watts
> 
> I think ya really need to borrow some of the cooling from ya CPU loop for ya GPU loop. I'd do a single loop with the 4 cards in series / parallel .... that is set up cards 1 & 2 in parallel; set up 3&4 in parallel ...... and cards 3&4 follow 1&2 in series. I'd use a double pump like the 36x2 or two D5s in series.
> 
> 1540 watts x 60% min by rads ~ 924 watts ..... UT60-480 in P/P on bottom (443) + XT45-480 in P/P (423) on top + ST30-240 in pull (110) in right panel @ 1800 rpm = 976
> Don't understand the reference to clocks and the diagnostic panel..... the panel shows boot errors. The Q-Codes displayed replace with greater detail, the old method of beeps for diagnosing build or hardware failure issues.
> *420 won't fit on bottom w/o some serious dremel work* but I'd agree w/ all else
> I have very similar setup so would recommend the following.
> 
> 1. Slide the top rad a bit towards the front ..... will allow easier piping and provide access to the top rad ports for filling / bleeding the loop.
> 
> 2. I'd go from bottom rad => GPUs (in parallel) => Top Rad => CPU. Not a large effect but it is significant.... The temps coming out of my top rad are 1.3C lower going into the CPU so the cooler water does provide a slight cooling advantage.
> 
> 3. Recommend parallel in that this sends half the flow thru the GPU blocks which due to their size can do their job at lower flow rate .... it also cuts down block resistance.
> 
> 4. Newegg says these cards are 10.5" long ..... if they are correct, then you should have no problem getting the EK-Res 3-250 on the Mounting Bracket.... just have to take off the plastic cable hider thingie. With the 50mm res you listed could fit up to 10.8" cards......60mm can do 10.6".
> 
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814130923
> 
> 5. That's a lotta money on QDs. I'd be the last one to argue against overkill but if ya drain the loop, they kinda become superfluous.
> 
> 6. No drain ? You can fit one nicely using the bottom port on the 280 rad ending with a QD.
> That's what I guessed.... reposted from # 3156






Yep, my bad. To avoid messing with the side panel with the phanteks logo a 360 in the bottom would be fine.


----------



## Branish

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *acanom*
> 
> Those are the M3 5mm if I´m not mistaken
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If it worked out fine, I´m happy^^


Yeah those are the ones I used for mounting my Monsta 360 in the bottom.


----------



## acanom

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Branish*
> 
> Yeah those are the ones I used for mounting my Monsta 360 in the bottom.


Thank you, too. Now I feel reassured


----------



## chino1974

Hey guys I am going to be going from a 900d to the Enthoo Primo in the next week. I have been trying to find info in the thread but can't get the search option to work from my phone which I'm on right now. Would anyone know if I would be able to fit my Black Ice GTX rads in this case? I'm really hoping to be able to reuse them as they are all fairly new. Any help is greatly appreciated.


----------



## Roxycon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chino1974*
> 
> Hey guys I am going to be going from a 900d to the Enthoo Primo in the next week. I have been trying to find info in the thread but can't get the search option to work from my phone which I'm on right now. Would anyone know if I would be able to fit my Black Ice GTX rads in this case? I'm really hoping to be able to reuse them as they are all fairly new. Any help is greatly appreciated.


If they are wider than 125 mm for 360 and up radiators you wont be able to mount them in the bottom without modding, as for the top i would think pretty much any wideness will fit in, just be sure to get clearance with the memory and heatsinks on the mobo at the top

Lol, saw that you filled out your sig with the cooling







yes the 240 will fit in the bottom with all 6 hdd spaces in place and the 360 will fit the top


----------



## Branish

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chino1974*
> 
> Hey guys I am going to be going from a 900d to the Enthoo Primo in the next week. I have been trying to find info in the thread but can't get the search option to work from my phone which I'm on right now. Would anyone know if I would be able to fit my Black Ice GTX rads in this case? I'm really hoping to be able to reuse them as they are all fairly new. Any help is greatly appreciated.


Unfortunately you can only fit one in the roof since they are 133mm wide and the floor doesn't allow for anything wider than a 125mm wide rad. I really wanted to put in some SR-1's in but since they only fit in the roof, I ended up reusing one of my Alphacool's and bought a UT60 420 to match my 360 Monsta. Even a Black Ice 280 won't fit on the floor because it won't allow the side panel to fit. But as Roxycon wrote you can fit the 240 on the floor.


----------



## renkenkyo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> I have very similar setup so would recommend the following.
> 
> 1. Slide the top rad a bit towards the front ..... will allow easier piping and provide access to the top rad ports for filling / bleeding the loop.
> 
> 2. I'd go from bottom rad => GPUs (in parallel) => Top Rad => CPU. Not a large effect but it is significant.... The temps coming out of my top rad are 1.3C lower going into the CPU so the cooler water does provide a slight cooling advantage.
> 
> 3. Recommend parallel in that this sends half the flow thru the GPU blocks which due to their size can do their job at lower flow rate .... it also cuts down block resistance.
> 
> 4. Newegg says these cards are 10.5" long ..... if they are correct, then you should have no problem getting the EK-Res 3-250 on the Mounting Bracket.... just have to take off the plastic cable hider thingie. With the 50mm res you listed could fit up to 10.8" cards......60mm can do 10.6".
> 
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814130923
> 
> 5. That's a lotta money on QDs. I'd be the last one to argue against overkill but if ya drain the loop, they kinda become superfluous.
> 
> 6. No drain ? You can fit one nicely using the bottom port on the 280 rad ending with a QD.


Sounds good. The only reason for the QD's is so I can remove components without having to cut the tube and drain the loop. It's a pain when I swap parts on my current build because I've got no QD's.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chino1974*
> 
> Hey guys I am going to be going from a 900d to the Enthoo Primo in the next week. I have been trying to find info in the thread but can't get the search option to work from my phone which I'm on right now. Would anyone know if I would be able to fit my Black Ice GTX rads in this case? I'm really hoping to be able to reuse them as they are all fairly new. Any help is greatly appreciated.


Seems to be conflicting responses above.
Roxycon says the bottom one will fit and Branish says it won't.

Just to be clear. It depends on which size Black Ice rads you have. I see in your Jordan build list it says you have a 360 (that will fit in the top) and you have listed either a 280 or 240 (it says both).

A 240 Black Ice will fit no problem. Branish is right there is a 125mm width maxk on rads in the bottom, but it only applies to 360 / 480 rads that need to extend beyond / fit behind the panel with the Phanteks logo on it.

However, a Black Ice 280 will not fit in the bottom. It's 153mm wide, and the max width for a 280 in the bottom is ~148mm and still be able to fit the windowed side panel back on.

See here for the Review by Jesse (themodzoo) and Bill (mnpctech) where they discover a Black Ice 280 will not fit in the bottom (link will take you right to that part of the vid) ...


----------



## Branish

Sorry I said the 280 won't fit. The 240 fits fine.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *renkenkyo*
> 
> Sounds good. The only reason for the QD's is so I can remove components without having to cut the tube and drain the loop. It's a pain when I swap parts on my current build because I've got no QD's.


Cut ? Have trouble getting them off the barbs ?

I just partially drain the loop and then disassemble the fittings. If I am gonna take the loop down, I'd also want to take the opportunity to inspect the components and filter the fluid. So just have one pair of QD's for the drain line at lowest point.


----------



## Ouro

Has anyone on OCN mounted a 420 on the bottom after drilling holes into the case?


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ouro*
> 
> Has anyone on OCN mounted a 420 on the bottom after drilling holes into the case?


Drilling holes isn't going to do it.

The issue with putting a 420 in the bottom is there is not enough space, width-wise, between the PSU shroud and the panel with the Phanteks logo & 5.25" bay latches. There's only 127mm of space between the two so even some brand's of 120mm-series rads (360, 480) are too wide to fit between there. You would have to remove the whole panel or cut the whole lower portion of that panel out.


----------



## Branish

Hey guys just a quick question about the fan hub. The manual says only one fan can be used on the Fan1 header but I just realized I had accidentally hooked up one of the spitters to it and the fans are working fine so I'm just wondering if having the fan splitter connected to Fan1 will have an adverse affect on the longevity of the hub or the fans?


----------



## Jared485

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ouro*
> 
> Has anyone on OCN mounted a 420 on the bottom after drilling holes into the case?


I put a 420 on the top of mine... fit perfectly...

EDIT:AGHH you asked about bottom i misread sorry...


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Branish*
> 
> Hey guys just a quick question about the fan hub. The manual says only one fan can be used on the Fan1 header but I just realized I had accidentally hooked up one of the spitters to it and the fans are working fine so I'm just wondering if having the fan splitter connected to Fan1 will have an adverse affect on the longevity of the hub or the fans?


It may be that the only reason that there's only supposed to be one fan hooked up to the Fan1 header is so that there is only one fan's rpm/tach signal being reported to it instead of several fans which would corrupt the signal and make it unusable, in which case a properly made splitter cable where only one fan has the rpm signal wire attached might make it a non-issue, but it might need to only be one fan for other reasons than that. I'm not sure that anyone will be able to definitively answer that either way.

If it's still working for you then I don't suspect that you've damaged it or shortened its lifespan, but I personally would have already unhooked it and made sure to only run one fan on the Fan1 header like it says to. You can splitter all the other channels if need be, but not that one.


----------



## Branish

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> It may be that the only reason that there's only supposed to be one fan hooked up to the Fan1 header is so that there is only one fan's rpm/tach signal being reported to it instead of several fans which would corrupt the signal and make it unusable, in which case a properly made splitter cable where only one fan has the rpm signal wire attached might make it a non-issue, but it might need to only be one fan for other reasons than that. I'm not sure that anyone will be able to definitively answer that either way.
> 
> If it's still working for you then I don't suspect that you've damaged it or shortened its lifespan, but I personally would have already unhooked it and made sure to only run one fan on the Fan1 header like it says to. You can splitter all the other channels if need be, but not that one.


Thanks Unicr0n. I'll take your advice and just hook one fan up to it.


----------



## Ouro

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Drilling holes isn't going to do it.
> 
> The issue with putting a 420 in the bottom is there is not enough space, width-wise, between the PSU shroud and the panel with the Phanteks logo & 5.25" bay latches. There's only 127mm of space between the two so even some brand's of 120mm-series rads (360, 480) are too wide to fit between there. You would have to remove the whole panel or cut the whole lower portion of that panel out.


Oh poo. I guess I might have to end up modifying mine. I don't like the look of a 420 on top and a 280 on the bottom.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

What are you cooling ?

A 420 + 280 is more than adequate for twin GFX cards and CPU overclocks. The reason you can't use the 420 as it won't fit behind the driver bay cover panel which blocks view of everything behind it. So if the 420 did ft, you wouldn't be able to see the last 140mm of it.


----------



## xCloudyHorizon

http://www.modders-inc.com/phanteks-enthoo-primo-ultimate-chassis-review-build/
Quote:


> At the time of writing this review an encore "White Version" of this case has begun shipping.


----------



## Roxycon

Review from modders-inc

edit: ninjad, sorry guys


----------



## Ouro

Why doesn't Phanteks want any of my American money? I knew we were doing bad but I didn't know our currency was undesirable :'( Plz Phanteks take my money!


----------



## Abenlog

I don't know if you guys saw, but Phanteks put up pictures of the white Enthoo Primo on their product page. It looks sooo good.

Enthoo Primo


----------



## xCloudyHorizon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Abenlog*
> 
> I don't know if you guys saw, but Phanteks put up pictures of the white Enthoo Primo on their product page. It looks sooo good.
> 
> Enthoo Primo


Now to just put it on the USA site for pre-order.


----------



## stilllogicz

@JackNaylorPE

What is the formula you use to calculate heat dissipation? I'd like to do some calculations of my own.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stilllogicz*
> 
> @JackNaylorPE
> 
> What is the formula you use to calculate heat dissipation? I'd like to do some calculations of my own.


Check out Jack's thread ...

Radiator Size Estimator
http://www.overclock.net/t/1457426/radiator-size-estimator/


----------



## stilllogicz

Thank you, exactly what I was looking for.


----------



## Anarchy2703

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stilllogicz*
> 
> @JackNaylorPE
> 
> What is the formula you use to calculate heat dissipation? I'd like to do some calculations of my own.


Thermal coefficient of water is 0.00023129193. So I think you just take the surface area (or it might be volume) of your radiators and times it by that. For example: if you had a 420mm radiator (420*140*30) and a 280 (280*140*30) you could theoretically dissipate 680watts with a delta temp of 10 degrees c. But most systems produce over 680 watts at load, so to keep the thermal coefficient the same the delta T must rise. Hope that helps.


----------



## stilllogicz

Alrighty. Did some math and here's what I got. I'll be using Corsair SP120's which are 2350 RPM. The sheet only goes up to 2200 RPM so I used that info.

1 - 290x = 325 Watts (extra added in for a bit of OC headroom if I choose)
4 - 290x = 1300 Watts
2 - D5 pumps = 80 Watts

Total = 1380 Watts

60% of 1380 = 828 Watts of estimated heat dissipation needed for the GPU loop.

Ok, cool. Follow me now, all rads are in push pull unless otherwise stated.

Monsta 360 (on bottom) = 442 Watts @ 2200 RPM
XT45 240 (in the front) = 248 Watts @ 2200 RPM
ST30 240 (in the side w/o HDD cage) = 187 Watts @ 2200 RPM in PUSH ONLY

Total = 877 Watts which puts me @ 63.5% heat dissipation.

This leaves me with more than enough cooling for both the GPU's and the rest of the system while keeping the components separate to maximize CPU overclockability.

4930k @ ? - 300 Watts (Added a ton of extra watts to compensate for unknown final OC)
8 Ram sticks - 40 Watts
Motherboard - 40 Watts
D5 Pump - 40 Watts

Total - 420 Watts / 60% = 252 Watts

XT45 360 (up top) = 371 Watts @ 2200 RPM in P/P which puts me @ 88.3% heat dissipation.

Does everything add up?


----------



## Abenlog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xCloudyHorizon*
> 
> Now to just put it on the USA site for pre-order.


The rep I spoke with gave the answer of "a couple of weeks" for pre-orders and shipments should start at the end of March. The other chassis (Luxe&Pro) should be dropping in April.

I know it's not new information but it's nice to have some confirmation.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stilllogicz*
> 
> @JackNaylorPE
> 
> What is the formula you use to calculate heat dissipation? I'd like to do some calculations of my own.


I just use Martin's test results..... I have tabulated them here ....

http://www.overclock.net/t/1457426/radiator-size-estimator

His tests are on the 360 and to get a 120, I simply divided by 3 ...... 240 times 2/3 ..... 480 by 4/3..... not going to be exact to the watt but easily within 1-2%. Several others have joined in working to expand upon the data..... and martin's input and encouragement has been helped keep the enthusiasm in the project going. Have about 40 peeps involved so far so if ya could provide any data you get would be most helpful.

The fan speed data was a simple interpolation initially but if ya on the detail pages, used martins actually recorded values to provide data for 50 rpm increments.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anarchy2703*
> 
> Thermal coefficient of water is 0.00023129193. So I think you just take the surface area (or it might be volume) of your radiators and times it by that. For example: if you had a 420mm radiator (420*140*30) and a 280 (280*140*30) you could theoretically dissipate 680watts with a delta temp of 10 degrees c. But most systems produce over 680 watts at load, so to keep the thermal coefficient the same the delta T must rise. Hope that helps.


It's bit more complicated..... for one, that would indicate that a 45mm rad would give ya 50% more cooling than a 30 and it doesn't .... more like 2-5% depending on fan speed. It's also changes based upon fan speed .... let's say ya have 22C air coming in and a 32C water temp..... well as the air goes thru id it drops say 1C for every 4mm of depth in a 30mm rad.... by the end of the 30 mm, you'd be at 34.5C ..... at that point what is an extra 15mm of rad gonna do for ya with air at 34.5 and coolant at 32C, the rate of heat exchange is slowwww.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stilllogicz*
> 
> Monsta 360 = 442 Watts @ 2200 RPM
> XT45 240 (in the front) = 248 Watts @ 2200 RPM
> ST30 240 (in the side w/o HDD cage) = 187 Watts @ 2200 RPM in PUSH ONLY
> 
> Total = 877 Watts which puts me @ 63.5% heat dissipation.
> 
> This leaves me with more than enough cooling for both the GPU's and the rest of the system while keeping the component separate to maximize CPU overclockability.
> 
> Does everything add up?


1. 2350 is an extreme fan rpm ..... be aware that this will approach H100 sound levels .... IOW, vacuum cleaner levels

http://martinsliquidlab.org/2013/03/12/swiftech-h220-vs-corsair-h100i-noise-testing/

Corsair says 35 dBA ... so even giving them the benefit of the doubt .... that's 57 dBA and that Corsair number is in air not pushing air thru a rad.

2. 325 is not a big OC for the 290s..... the formula, if I remember correctly is stock power * (Voltage OC's / Voltage stock)^2 But again, you'll never see that outside stress testing and not all will hit 100% load so 325 is good.

3. Not sure that ya mean by the "rest of the system". I'm guessing that yoiu are using the top rad to cool the CPU which is prolly on the "overkill side". Ifrom what I have seen, very few are having their HW OCs limited by temperature, hence delidding is far less popular with HW as compared to IB. So while temps will likely be the limiting factor for those air cooling a HW CPU, for WC'ers, it seems to be voltage .... at my 4.6 OC, I'd be quite happy to try 4.7 or 4.8 as my OC temps at 4.6 are only 74C at 850 rpm.... but my voltage is at 1.48 now w/ the new BIOS (w/ avx instructions) and that makes me uncomfortable.

4. I'd throw a 420 in the top and with a more moderate 1800 rpm speed you;d get 423 watts outta that .... 60% of ya CPU load is 84 watts so that leaves and extra 339 for ya GPUs. At 1800 rpm, ya'd have 340 from the monsta, 207 and 161 from the others ... or 708 watts....with the spare 339 ya over 1000 watts .... so looking at 1400 ....

1380 + 135 CPU = 1515 x 60% = 909 watts

XT45-280= 336
Monsta 360 = 270
XT45-240 = 165
ST30-240 = 133
Total = 904 watts

I think you will be a lot happier at 1400 rpm......as far as piping it I'd suggest:

GPU's 1 and 2 set up in parallel
GPU's 3 and 4 set up in parallel

Then have 1/2 and 3/4 in series, all fed by a 35x2....another alternate would be

Tack one of these onto the right side of the case with 4 or 8 x 180mm fans

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/19805/ex-rad-593/Watercool_MO-RA3_360_LT_9_x_120mm_4_x_180mm_Extreme_Radiator_-_Black_Powder_Coat_25000.html?tl=g30c95s667


----------



## xCloudyHorizon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Abenlog*
> 
> The rep I spoke with gave the answer of "a couple of weeks" for pre-orders and shipments should start at the end of March. The other chassis (Luxe&Pro) should be dropping in April.
> 
> I know it's not new information but it's nice to have some confirmation.


Brian came in a week or so ago and confirmed that, but I'm just too hyped to finally get a Primo.


----------



## tolis626

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stilllogicz*
> 
> Alrighty. Did some math and here's what I got. I'll be using Corsair SP120's which are 2350 RPM. The sheet only goes up to 2200 RPM so I used that info.
> 
> 1 - 290x = 325 Watts (extra added in for a bit of OC headroom if I choose)
> 4 - 290x = 1300 Watts
> 2 - D5 pumps = 80 Watts
> 
> Total = 1380 Watts
> 
> 60% of 1380 = 828 Watts of estimated heat dissipation needed for the GPU loop.
> 
> Ok, cool. Follow me now, all rads are in push pull unless otherwise stated.
> 
> Monsta 360 (on bottom) = 442 Watts @ 2200 RPM
> XT45 240 (in the front) = 248 Watts @ 2200 RPM
> ST30 240 (in the side w/o HDD cage) = 187 Watts @ 2200 RPM in PUSH ONLY
> 
> Total = 877 Watts which puts me @ 63.5% heat dissipation.
> 
> This leaves me with more than enough cooling for both the GPU's and the rest of the system while keeping the components separate to maximize CPU overclockability.
> 
> 4930k @ ? - 300 Watts (Added a ton of extra watts to compensate for unknown final OC)
> 8 Ram sticks - 40 Watts
> Motherboard - 40 Watts
> D5 Pump - 40 Watts
> 
> Total - 420 Watts / 60% = 252 Watts
> 
> XT45 360 (up top) = 371 Watts @ 2200 RPM in P/P which puts me @ 88.3% heat dissipation.
> 
> Does everything add up?


First off,I wouldn't suggest running 4 290x's.Unless you are running at some extremely insane resolutions,3 will be enough for pretty much anything.With 4 cards,Karlitos from the Anandtech forums has been having problems using DisplayPort,which works fine with three cards.And I think there were other issues too.And cooling them would be easier too.These are really hot cards.

Secondly,I think splitting the loop isn't the best thing to do.As Jack suggested,having a 420 in push/pull up top will provide enough cooling for the CPU,mobo and RAM (Why water cool the RAM anyway?) and will provide cooling for the GPUs too.It's not only overkill to have a huge rad for that stuff,it'll probably perform better if you make a single loop with dual pumps.

Finally,are you sure that you can fit rads both at the front and the right panels?Somehow,a 45mm at the front in push/pull AND a 30mm on the right side in push seems wrong.I don't have the case yet,so I could be wrong.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Yeah, I haven't even opened mine from them yet out of the sealed bag it came in. My order was clearly for a set of 4 ("Non-Magnetic Mini Touch Latch (Body) - Set of 4 - PR-4PK") but what I received the item # says "PR-4PK-1PC". Needless to say I won't be doing any more business with Homeclick ...
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Images
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Doesn't look like the "Set of 4" I was expecting.


Just an update to this. Homeclick did finally make good on the order for 3 more of the push-click latches, the same kind used for the fan filters/filter covers in the Enthoo Primo. Took quite a while and a couple screw-ups but they did finally get what I paid for sent to me. Still don't know that I'd order from them again or recommend them to anyone, at least not without caveats, but I'm no longer so peeved with them as I was that's for sure.


----------



## stilllogicz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tolis626*
> 
> First off,I wouldn't suggest running 4 290x's.Unless you are running at some extremely insane resolutions,3 will be enough for pretty much anything.With 4 cards,Karlitos from the Anandtech forums has been having problems using DisplayPort,which works fine with three cards.And I think there were other issues too.And cooling them would be easier too.These are really hot cards.
> 
> Secondly,I think splitting the loop isn't the best thing to do.As Jack suggested,having a 420 in push/pull up top will provide enough cooling for the CPU,mobo and RAM (Why water cool the RAM anyway?) and will provide cooling for the GPUs too.It's not only overkill to have a huge rad for that stuff,it'll probably perform better if you make a single loop with dual pumps.
> 
> Finally,are you sure that you can fit rads both at the front and the right panels?Somehow,a 45mm at the front in push/pull AND a 30mm on the right side in push seems wrong.I don't have the case yet,so I could be wrong.


This build is somewhat of a novelty dream build. Is it worth it to watercool the ram? No. But I'm pulling out all the stops this time around. The dual loop thing is mainly about aesthetics more so than anything else. At the very worst it will perform the same as a single loop. As for the four 290x, well shortly after this build I plan to upgrade to 3x1 eyefinity 4320x2560 monitor setup.

As for the rads, I'm sure they will fit. Tube routing will be tough but I'm sure it can be done.


----------



## tolis626

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stilllogicz*
> 
> This build is somewhat of a novelty dream build. Is it worth it to watercool the ram? No. But I'm pulling out all the stops this time around. The dual loop thing is mainly about aesthetics more so than anything else. At the very worst it will perform the same as a single loop. As for the four 290x, well shortly after this build I plan to upgrade to 3x1 eyefinity 4320x2560 monitor setup.
> 
> As for the rads, I'm sure they will fit. Tube routing will be tough but I'm sure it can be done.


I can respect that.The only thing I'd insist on is the 4 GPUs,but the decision isn't mine to make.

Still,this whole setup sounds drool-worthy.Do post some pictures once you build it.


----------



## stilllogicz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tolis626*
> 
> I can respect that.The only thing I'd insist on is the 4 GPUs,but the decision isn't mine to make.
> 
> Still,this whole setup sounds drool-worthy.Do post some pictures once you build it.


Will do, I plan to do a build log of the entire procedure. I'm very excited for this, I've built 5 watercooled PC's over the years and not once have I ever done a dual loop. To be honest, I've never had equipment to where it would make sense. At least this time I'll have enough GPUs to where it would make sense. I've been mulling over the whole fan thing I posted about earlier and I've come to a solution that will be a nice comprimise.

I'll be using an Aquaero 6 controller and setting up profiles for the GPU fans. Maybe 1000 RPM or so on idle for regular usage and couple others possibly maxing @ 2200 RPM for when I wanna game. That way I can keep the benefits of high RPM when needed and keep the noise down when it's not. So excited


----------



## rpjkw11

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stilllogicz*
> 
> Will do, I plan to do a build log of the entire procedure. I'm very excited for this, I've built 5 watercooled PC's over the years and not once have I ever done a dual loop. To be honest, I've never had equipment to where it would make sense. At least this time I'll have enough GPUs to where it would make sense. I've been mulling over the whole fan thing I posted about earlier and I've come to a solution that will be a nice comprimise.
> 
> I'll be using an Aquaero 6 controller and setting up profiles for the GPU fans. Maybe 1000 RPM or so on idle for regular usage and couple others possibly maxing @ 2200 RPM for when I wanna game. That way I can keep the benefits of high RPM when needed and keep the noise down when it's not. So excited


While I'm a confirmed "airhead", though admittedly considering a Swiftech H320 kit, I look forward to your upcoming build log. Perhaps one of these days I'll become convinced water cooling is an absolute necessity and build a custom loop. As it is now, my moderate OCing works well with the Phanteks TC14PE. Still, I am curious about water.


----------



## Branish

I finally got my Enthoo Primo under water after running on air for a few days. I'll post pictures once I get the case lighting and my new RAM installed. I'm loving this case. It puts my old 600T to shame. I'm happy to report that the Noiseblocker Eloops B12-2's work fantastic in pull. At least on Alphacool radiators.


----------



## stilllogicz

Has anyone modded the drive bays to fit, let's say a 360mm rad in the front? Is this even possible?


----------



## Branish

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stilllogicz*
> 
> Has anyone modded the drive bays to fit, let's say a 360mm rad in the front? Is this even possible?


You could easily mod the front for a 360mm rad but you might run into ventilation issues with the top 120mm fan unless you modded the front panel as well as there are no ventilation holes. I haven't seen this mod yet but it could definitely be done. You could even fit a 480mm rad in the front.


----------



## Roxycon

I think its easier the way i did, but i dont have a temperature reading of pre adding the 360 so i dont know how much it would impact the cooling or suffer for not having a proper mount and fresh air, but it would be the same as if you had a rad in exhaust

Mb temps are not significantly effected by having all my radiators as intake either









Edit: in this setup you would not sacrifice the 5,25" bays (well pretty sure i cant install disk drives, but i havent seen any one having that installed in their ep yet







)


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stilllogicz*
> 
> Has anyone modded the drive bays to fit, let's say a 360mm rad in the front? Is this even possible?


On the back of the bays, it's been done.... front of the bays would be a bear as the structural plate between the 3.5 and 5.25 bays would have to be cut.


----------



## Seid Dark

I don't know what's taking so long with the white Primo







We have known about it at least since January and still not in the shops? I sure hope there will be no delays or I will go crazy.


----------



## tolis626

So,I just received my EP this morning and it's neither as big,nor as good as I expected.It's bigger and better!I always knew mid-towers weren't for me,but this is something else.The size,the space,the build quality,the options,the flexibility...It's all there and there's much of it.Only bad thing is,I don't have the rest of the system yet,so it sits there empty.I could fit my laptop in it for the time being though...









(I bought it before everything else because there was only one left in all of Greece and I didn't want someone else to snatch it from me)

Also,no problems whatsoever.No broken latches,no foggy window,no nothing.I haven't hooked it up to a PSU to check the LEDs,but I'd bet they're fine.


----------



## stilllogicz

Sadly I think I'm gonna have to get rid of my EP. The more I measure and sketch, the more I realize I'll just need a bigger case. I'm looking @ a STH10.


----------



## xCloudyHorizon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seid Dark*
> 
> I don't know what's taking so long with the white Primo
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We have known about it at least since January and still not in the shops? I sure hope there will be no delays or I will go crazy.


I think I've accounted for at least half of the traffic on Phantek's USA site.


----------



## Bludge

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stilllogicz*
> 
> So guys I'm going to put a 480 Monsta in the bottom of this case to cool 3-4 R9 290's. I don't think that will be sufficient and will likely need another 120-240 rad somewhere in there. Agree/disagree?


Definetly, I tried cooling 2 290X cards with one 280 Monsta. No go, water temps got up to 77C

Following up on this, suggestions for a larger bottom rad to cool 2 x 290X? I already have a 360 up top cooling a 3960X on a separate loop.


----------



## Griffenxz

Use a 420 on top , like a UT60 and a 480 bottom with a 240 for a side rad . That should give you enough cooling


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seid Dark*
> 
> I don't know what's taking so long with the white Primo
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We have known about it at least since January and still not in the shops? I sure hope there will be no delays or I will go crazy.


Look at the date of the thread start







.... we didn't see the thing till end of October.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bludge*
> 
> Definetly, I tried cooling 2 290X cards with one 280 Monsta. No go, water temps got up to 77C
> 
> Following up on this, suggestions for a larger bottom rad to cool 2 x 290X? I already have a 360 up top cooling a 3960X on a separate loop.


I'm cooling twin 780s w/ 25% OC and a 4770k which was at 4.6 w/ a 280 + 420 single fans..... I;d suggest moving the 360 to the bottom, adding a XT45-420 on top and using just a single loop....using some of the unused cooling capacity for the 360 for the 290x's

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stilllogicz*
> 
> Sadly I think I'm gonna have to get rid of my EP. The more I measure and sketch, the more I realize I'll just need a bigger case. I'm looking @ a STH10.


I figured you'd come to that conclusion sooner or later..... let me know if ya want me to come in and take it out to the trash for ya







..... was in ya neighborhood friday


----------



## Bludge

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> I'm cooling twin 780s w/ 25% OC and a 4770k which was at 4.6 w/ a 280 + 420 single fans..... I;d suggest moving the 360 to the bottom, adding a XT45-420 on top and using just a single loop....using some of the unused cooling capacity for the 360 for the 290x's


thanks for the reply mate, combining the loops is a last resort for me, at teh mement I'm contemplating putting in a XT45 480, and seeing if I can also fit a Monsta240 in the side HDD mount. Give me about 97% heat dissipation for the 29XC crossfire.

Apparently


----------



## Griffenxz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bludge*
> 
> thanks for the reply mate, combining the loops is a last resort for me, at teh mement I'm contemplating putting in a XT45 480, and seeing if I can also fit a Monsta240 in the side HDD mount. Give me about 97% heat dissipation for the 29XC crossfire.
> 
> Apparently


I think at most you can put a 240 ut 60 on the side with a pull fan setup.


----------



## Bludge

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Griffenxz*
> 
> I think at most you can put a 240 ut 60 on the side with a pull fan setup.


Thanks, I can see that I'm going to have to do a lot of horse trading to get rid of some of the rads out of the cupboard


----------



## stilllogicz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> I'm cooling twin 780s w/ 25% OC and a 4770k which was at 4.6 w/ a 280 + 420 single fans..... I;d suggest moving the 360 to the bottom, adding a XT45-420 on top and using just a single loop....using some of the unused cooling capacity for the 360 for the 290x's
> I figured you'd come to that conclusion sooner or later..... let me know if ya want me to come in and take it out to the trash for ya
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ..... was in ya neighborhood friday


Funny you should say that, I've had the case since late November and never even used it. Took it out of the box a few times to do measurements but never even installed a fan into it. I'm probably gonna list on craigslist for pickup. Or try to sell it to someone on OCN who lives in the 5 boroughs. Obviously for an open box price


----------



## Griffenxz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stilllogicz*
> 
> Funny you should say that, I've had the case since late November and never even used it. Took it out of the box a few times to do measurements but never even installed a fan into it. I'm probably gonna list on craigslist for pickup. Or try to sell it to someone on OCN who lives in the 5 boroughs. Obviously for an open box price


I do reside in queens would be tempted, but been waiting for the color version of this case.


----------



## Branish

Well here's The Black Pearl. It was tough having the case sit for three weeks with nothing in it. Last week I was running it on air but it's finally done......for now. Unfortunately the night shot turned out a little blurry.


----------



## Seid Dark

Looks really great, love the way you did your tubing. Full nickel Supremacy is beautiful. I was just wondering why the rear fan is blowing inside? To keep positive pressure?


----------



## Branish

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seid Dark*
> 
> Looks really great, love the way you did your tubing. Full nickel Supremacy is beautiful. I was just wondering why the rear fan is blowing inside? To keep positive pressure?


Thanks! Yes I do have the rear fan as intake for positive pressure since the 140's move more air and for silly reasons like I like the way the fan looks mounted as intake since it looks more uniform with the 3 intake fans on the bottom rad. I might try it as exhaust though since I do have 6 intake and 3 exhaust currently which is probably a bit much. But four of them are low RPM 120mm fans and the other 5 are the stock case fans which move a ton of air so I'm kind of afraid of the pressure becoming more neutral without the rear fan intaking, which probably isn't a bad thing.


----------



## ADragg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Branish*
> 
> Thanks! Yes I do have the rear fan as intake for positive pressure since the 140's move more air and for silly reasons like I like the way the fan looks mounted as intake since it looks more uniform with the 3 intake fans on the bottom rad. I might try it as exhaust though since I do have 6 intake and 3 exhaust currently which is probably a bit much. But four of them are low RPM 120mm fans and the other 5 are the stock case fans which move a ton of air so I'm kind of afraid of the pressure becoming more neutral without the rear fan intaking, which probably isn't a bad thing.


Why not do all of the fans as intakes and just the rear fan as a single exhaust. That way you've got plenty of positive pressure going on in there. The airflow isn't bad with this case, but I do think it can use all of the intakes it can get, except the rear panel kind of needs to be an exhaust since that's where all of the passive exhaust is going to happen naturally since it's the portion that's so well vented. As it is now, you've got air coming in from that fan, but then other air is still probably exhausting out of the other vents on that back panel and the overall flow might be kind of weird. With all intakes, it's going to bring tons of fresh air in and it will all flood and escape out the back. Plenty of fresh air that's coming in only through filtered intakes and then all of the air is exhausted out of the one panel that's not filtered. That and the positive pressure in general will keep dust to a minimum and you'll just have a "natural" flow of air going on.

It looks great, though! I do kind of have mixed feeling about the tubing because it looks great, but at the same time I find of feel like the beauty of acrylic tubing is to have every tubing run either horizontal or vertical (so everything is routed with 90 degree bends to get wherever you need to go from point A to point B. It does look awesome, though and that's always something you could do later if you wanted to get more fittings and/or do some bending if you ever actually decided you wanted to. It's definitely tedious to do it that way, but I just love that look. Congrats on the new build!


----------



## ADragg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stilllogicz*
> 
> Sadly I think I'm gonna have to get rid of my EP. The more I measure and sketch, the more I realize I'll just need a bigger case. I'm looking @ a STH10.


I had the same experience, except I got rid of mine to go smaller







I still love the EP and miss it, but I'm so happy with the build and beautiful, simple Caselabs design. I have a white Mercury S5 now and love it. If you haven't had a Caselabs case yet, you will definitely love it. Caselabs is just the ultimate for me, but a big STH10 (or any Caselabs) is definitely an investment, but well worth it for the build quality and complete customizability with all of those options.


----------



## Branish

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ADragg*
> 
> Why not do all of the fans as intakes and just the rear fan as a single exhaust. That way you've got plenty of positive pressure going on in there. The airflow isn't bad with this case, but I do think it can use all of the intakes it can get, except the rear panel kind of needs to be an exhaust since that's where all of the passive exhaust is going to happen naturally since it's the portion that's so well vented. As it is now, you've got air coming in from that fan, but then other air is still probably exhausting out of the other vents on that back panel and the overall flow might be kind of weird. With all intakes, it's going to bring tons of fresh air in and it will all flood and escape out the back. Plenty of fresh air that's coming in only through filtered intakes and then all of the air is exhausted out of the one panel that's not filtered. That and the positive pressure in general will keep dust to a minimum and you'll just have a "natural" flow of air going on.
> 
> It looks great, though! I do kind of have mixed feeling about the tubing because it looks great, but at the same time I find of feel like the beauty of acrylic tubing is to have every tubing run either horizontal or vertical (so everything is routed with 90 degree bends to get wherever you need to go from point A to point B. It does look awesome, though and that's always something you could do later if you wanted to get more fittings and/or do some bending if you ever actually decided you wanted to. It's definitely tedious to do it that way, but I just love that look. Congrats on the new build!


Thanks for the kind words. The rear fan is mounted as intake primarily for looks. The temps are really good so I'm likely going to leave it as intake but I do know what you're saying. I did want to keep all the tubing going horizontal and vertical but to do that in the motherboard area would be very difficult because I used fittings for all the bends since I prefer the aesthetics.


----------



## simsim44

that turned out really nice, well done.
Maybe some pix of the rads setup?


----------



## JackNaylorPE

I don't understand the desire for positive pressure. Exactly what benefit is it thought it provides ?

I know why it is generally thought positive pressure is good. When you have FILTERED fan intakes and air is going out thru UNFILTERED grilles this reduces dust intake. But if you have unfiltered fan exhausts and filtered fan intake grilles, you'd be in the exact same position dust wise. In this case with if there has been no filter added, unfiltered fan intake dust is being sucked into the case.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bludge*
> 
> thanks for the reply mate, combining the loops is a last resort for me, at teh mement I'm contemplating putting in a XT45 480, and seeing if I can also fit a Monsta240 in the side HDD mount. Give me about 97% heat dissipation for the 29XC crossfire.


I have two fans on the side panel (no rad) and have trouble getting the panel on .... hits wires feeding HDs ....


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> I don't understand the desire for positive pressure. Exactly what benefit is it thought it provides ?
> 
> I know why it is generally thought positive pressure is good. When you have FILTERED fan intakes and air is going out thru UNFILTERED grilles this reduces dust intake. But if you have unfiltered fan exhausts and filtered fan intake grilles, you'd be in the exact same position dust wise. In this case with if there has been no filter added, unfiltered fan intake dust is being sucked into the case.


There are _always_ unfiltered openings in every case, usually in the form of an open grill on the back of the case and then there's always lots of tiny unfiltered cracks and crevices in places like around side panels, bay devices, on the bottom of the case, etc, that will suck in dust if you have negative pressure, but _as long you have filters on all your intake fans_ *and* _an abundance of positive pressure_, then all of those unfiltered spots become exhaust so no dust gets into the case.

Filtered intakes and positive pressure go hand in hand. You have to have both to see the benefit of either. If you're not going to have positive pressure (more filtered fannage blowing into the case than out), then there's little-to-no reason to have any filters on a case at all.

Keep in mind that filters restrict airflow quite a bit, handicapping the fans they are used on. For example, if you have 3 filtered fans blowing in, and 2 unfiltered fans blowing out, all the same type fan @ same speeds, you very likely have negative pressure, even more-so as the filters get dirty and restrict airflow even more.

Silverstone has a decent write up explaining the benefits of positive case pressure ...
Quote:


> *What is positive air pressure?*
> How does positive and negative pressure affect airflow in a chassis?
> http://www.silverstonetek.com/techtalk_cont.php?tid=wh_positive&area=usa


----------



## Branish

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *simsim44*
> 
> that turned out really nice, well done.
> Maybe some pix of the rads setup?


Thanks Simsim. Here are a few photos of the radiator setup:


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> There are _always_ unfiltered openings in every case, usually in the form of an open grill on the back of the case and then there's always lots of tiny unfiltered cracks and crevices in places like around side panels, bay devices, on the bottom of the case, etc, that will suck in dust if you have negative pressure, but _as long you have filters on all your intake fans_ *and* _an abundance of positive pressure_, then all of those unfiltered spots become exhaust so no dust gets into the case.
> 
> Filtered intakes and positive pressure go hand in hand. You have to have both to see the benefit of either. If you're not going to have positive pressure (more filtered fannage blowing into the case than out), then there's little-to-no reason to have any filters on a case at all.
> 
> Keep in mind that filters restrict airflow quite a bit, handicapping the fans they are used on. For example, if you have 3 filtered fans blowing in, and 2 unfiltered fans blowing out, all the same type fan @ same speeds, you very likely have negative pressure, even more-so as the filters get dirty and restrict airflow even more.
> 
> Silverstone has a decent write up explaining the benefits of positive case pressure ...


I'm not saying that positive isn't easier.....in a water cooling case however, with say 5 - 20 rad fans blowing in plus 2 case fans blowing in, (10 - 22 total) with just 3 other possible fan mounts in the case, positive / negative case pressure is really irrelevant with regard to how to mount the rear fan. The very fact that it is a consideration is my point.....the concept is over emphacized to the detriment of other considerations.

From a dust perspective.....

Positive case pressure is good.... but only if all ya inlets are filtered.
Negative case pressure is bad ..... but only if all ya inlets are not filtered.

The open grille on the back of the case is easily covered by a magnetic filter as Phanteks does on the fan openings. Would the same filter work well with air going out and somehow be deficient with air going in ?

Those minute cracks around bay devices should be of no concern with door closed and if they were, these cracks are small and really no different than the openings around the inlet grille on the top of the Enthoo or the spaces around the filter racks on the bottom. I have done smoke tests on several cases and can safely say that panel seams are a non issue on all but the lowest budget cases. Let's not also forget that the filters have openings .... which are really not much different in width than many of the cracks we are talking about.

However, all that being said, the negative case pressure option is more of a proof of concept than an actual suggestion. It does serve it's purpose though when stressing the need to filter all inlets. It's not the pressure that's important, it's getting all inlets filtered that is important. This favors positive pressure simply because accomplishing that goal with positive pressure takes less effort to accomplish.

So the point I am trying to get at is all the preaching on positive pressure has resulted in an somewhat of a fixation on positive pressure instead of protecting inlets .... "If you have positive pressure then all will be right with the world" ..... is missing the point that in the instance under discussion we have a big high performance140mm fan with, as far as we know, **no filter** blowing air into the case but because the case has positive pressure, the assumption is that this is of no concern.

You brought up a very valid and oft missed point that fans w/o filters pump more air ... well if ya reverse the rear fan, and don't add a filter isn't it going to do exactly that ? So isn't whether or not a filter is added a more important consideration than whether the positive pressure is 8 or 9 on a scale from 1 to 10 ?

I look at the magnetic filters on the side panel openings as the logical example of this concept....use them as a fan inlet, the filter stays....use them as an outlet, it's unnecessary take it out.


----------



## simsim44

the whole black and white ensemble is very attractive, Kudos.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

If this review was posted, I missed it

http://www.modders-inc.com/phanteks-enthoo-primo-ultimate-chassis-review-build/


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Yeah Roxycon and xCloudyHorizon both posted links to that review a minute apart from each other almost a week ago.

It's an ok review of the case. I liked that they didn't hesitate to cut the reservoir bracket to make a longer card fit with it in place instead of removing it.


----------



## ADragg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> I don't understand the desire for positive pressure. Exactly what benefit is it thought it provides ?
> 
> I know why it is generally thought positive pressure is good. When you have FILTERED fan intakes and air is going out thru UNFILTERED grilles this reduces dust intake. But if you have unfiltered fan exhausts and filtered fan intake grilles, you'd be in the exact same position dust wise. In this case with if there has been no filter added, unfiltered fan intake dust is being sucked into the case.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> There are _always_ unfiltered openings in every case, usually in the form of an open grill on the back of the case and then there's always lots of tiny unfiltered cracks and crevices in places like around side panels, bay devices, on the bottom of the case, etc, that will suck in dust if you have negative pressure, but _as long you have filters on all your intake fans_ *and* _an abundance of positive pressure_, then all of those unfiltered spots become exhaust so no dust gets into the case.
> 
> Filtered intakes and positive pressure go hand in hand. You have to have both to see the benefit of either. If you're not going to have positive pressure (more filtered fannage blowing into the case than out), then there's little-to-no reason to have any filters on a case at all.
> 
> Keep in mind that filters restrict airflow quite a bit, handicapping the fans they are used on. For example, if you have 3 filtered fans blowing in, and 2 unfiltered fans blowing out, all the same type fan @ same speeds, you very likely have negative pressure, even more-so as the filters get dirty and restrict airflow even more.
> 
> Silverstone has a decent write up explaining the benefits of positive case pressure ...


This, plus case filters really aren't all that great at filtering air. They are just mesh filters that will catch any major debris, like pet hair, as well as a good amount of the bulk of dust, but anyone who has had the Enthoo for a while will know that you'll still get plenty of dust inside the case, especially without decent positive pressure (which really takes all fans as intakes and maybe one exhaust in the rear with the Enthoo, because the back panel is so open that lots of intake is needed for a bit of positive pressure). It's usually more of a fine powered dust, but plenty of that exists and it will coat your case either way. It's just about trying to minimize it and keep as much air coming in and flowing right back out with a quickness so it doesn't get to settle.

Filters do create extra fan noise to some extent and they don't filter that well (again, as they're just mesh, not like paper furnace filters or something like that because that would be too restrictive). I still prefer having them, but that's why Caselabs, for instance, doesn't include filters at all. So you can either get the fitted filters like Demci's if you want, and decide for yourself if the amount of filtering is worth it, or if you just want to dust out your case regularly. A lot of people choose to go filterless to get better air flow and a little less noise, and they just blow the case out more and/or clean it with a DataVac.

Anyway, the idea of all or almost all fans as intakes isn't just to help minimize dust. I just think it's the most effective way of cooling. Most cases could have a huge amount of high speed fans intaking before there would finally be so much intake that it wasn't able to escape out the back fast enough and thus active exhaust would be needed. For the record, Im no expert on any of this and I could be wrong, but these are just my impressions based on what I've read and what makes sense to me, etc. It seems to me that intaking as much air as possible is only naturally going to bring the case temp as close as possible to ambient temps and keep any passively cooled components cooler. It also seems to make all of those intake fans work as exhaust too, because the positive pressure helps evacuate air and give as much passive exhaust as needed. Just seems to make better use of whatever number of fans you have and it happens to help minimize dust, too.


----------



## doyll

In many homes the biggest contributor of dust is our skin. The whitish dust is skin we shed. Air movement in case does not stop dust setting or collecting on fan blades, radiator cores, etc., but positive pressure and filters greatly reduce the amount that collects in case.


----------



## acanom

Now, that I´m nearly finished with my build I´m really happy with the case.

But I do wish the windows would be clear....


----------



## Bludge

With a monsta 480 in the bottom, what 240 (if any) could I fit in the side spot? after taking out the HDD cages


----------



## simsim44

I do believe that the 45mm is the thickest that will fit and will only be push or pull.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bludge*
> 
> With a monsta 480 in the bottom, what 240 (if any) could I fit in the side spot? after taking out the HDD cages


There is ~93mm from the side panel to the 480, so you could fit a 30mm thick 240 in push-pull or a 45mm or a 60mm in push or pull.

EDIT:
Hmmm, I just measured from side panel to the rad in the floor. I didn't factor in mounting to that bracket. Let me take another look at it and see how that will affect things.

OK it didn't change anything. The bracket when mounted is spaced 25mm from the side panel for a fan, and there's ~68mm of space from the bracket to the rad in the floor.

FWIW, a 30mm rad in push-pull would likely outperform either a 45mm or 60mm rad in just push or pull.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bludge*
> 
> With a monsta 480 in the bottom, what 240 (if any) could I fit in the side spot? after taking out the HDD cages


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> There is ~93mm from the side panel to the 480, so you could fit a 30mm thick 240 in push-pull or a 45mm or a 60mm in push or pull.
> 
> EDIT:
> Hmmm, I just measured from side panel to the rad in the floor. I didn't factor in mounting to that bracket. Let me take another look at it and see how that will affect things.
> 
> OK it didn't change anything. The bracket when mounted is spaced 25mm from the side panel for a fan, and there's ~68mm of space from the bracket to the rad in the floor.
> 
> FWIW, a 30mm rad in push-pull would likely outperform either a 45mm or 60mm rad in just push or pull.


this. That is the solution I went and you could check some pictures of the two rads in front/side in my build log. Both OCool 30 mm with ap15 in push /pull. Perfect fit.


----------



## paulyoung

I've had a few weeks of down time, so I have done some work on my loop. I didn't like the thin 30mm rad up top, or the 420 monsta in the bottom. So I bought another monsta a 480, for the bottom, and replaced the 30mm up top with the 420. And my god what a fit, there is about 1.5 mm betwen my ram and the bottom fan.

She almost there, I have a few more tweeks to do, like add another 250 ml concentrate fluid, and mount my ssd's on the what was side rad bracket. But that all will be done next week.


----------



## Roxycon

http://m.hardocp.com/article/2014/03/11/phanteks_enthoo_primo_ultimate_chassis_review/1#.Ux9c9r3sTqB new review of the ep


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paulyoung*
> 
> I've had a few weeks of down time, so I have done some work on my loop. I didn't like the thin 30mm rad up top, or the 420 monsta in the bottom. So I bought another monsta a 480, for the bottom, and replaced the 30mm up top with the 420. And my god what a fit, there is about 1.5 mm betwen my ram and the bottom fan.
> 
> She almost there, I have a few more tweeks to do, like add another 250 ml concentrate fluid, and mount my ssd's on the what was side rad bracket. But that all will be done next week.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Images


Luv the look of that monsta up top!!!! Cool to see you were able to fit a 140-series rad up there too. Now you have me seriously thinking about replacing my 45mm 480 up top with a 480 monsta.


----------



## Bludge

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> There is ~93mm from the side panel to the 480, so you could fit a 30mm thick 240 in push-pull or a 45mm or a 60mm in push or pull.
> 
> EDIT:
> Hmmm, I just measured from side panel to the rad in the floor. I didn't factor in mounting to that bracket. Let me take another look at it and see how that will affect things.
> 
> OK it didn't change anything. The bracket when mounted is spaced 25mm from the side panel for a fan, and there's ~68mm of space from the bracket to the rad in the floor.
> 
> FWIW, a 30mm rad in push-pull would likely outperform either a 45mm or 60mm rad in just push or pull.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> this. That is the solution I went and you could check some pictures of the two rads in front/side in my build log. Both OCool 30 mm with ap15 in push /pull. Perfect fit.


Thanks guys, appreciate your time. Will have to see what 240mm I have hidden away.


----------



## Ouro

Any of the included fans PWM ?


----------



## brian-phanteks

@ouro All of the fans included with the Enthoo Primo are 3-pin fans. (Model PH-F140SP, no PWM) However, once you connect these fans to our PWM Hub and the hub to your cpu header, all fans will be controlled by your motherboard via pwm.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ADragg*
> 
> This, plus case filters really aren't all that great at filtering air. They are just mesh filters that will catch any major debris, like pet hair, as well as a good amount of the bulk of dust, but anyone who has had the Enthoo for a while will know that you'll still get plenty of dust inside the case, especially without decent positive pressure (which really takes all fans as intakes and maybe one exhaust in the rear with the Enthoo, because the back panel is so open that lots of intake is needed for a bit of positive pressure). It's usually more of a fine powered dust, but plenty of that exists and it will coat your case either way. It's just about trying to minimize it and keep as much air coming in and flowing right back out with a quickness so it doesn't get to settle.
> 
> Filters do create extra fan noise to some extent and they don't filter that well (again, as they're just mesh, not like paper furnace filters or something like that because that would be too restrictive). I still prefer having them, but that's why Caselabs, for instance, doesn't include filters at all. So you can either get the fitted filters like Demci's if you want, and decide for yourself if the amount of filtering is worth it, or if you just want to dust out your case regularly. A lot of people choose to go filterless to get better air flow and a little less noise, and they just blow the case out more and/or clean it with a DataVac.
> 
> Anyway, the idea of all or almost all fans as intakes isn't just to help minimize dust. I just think it's the most effective way of cooling. Most cases could have a huge amount of high speed fans intaking before there would finally be so much intake that it wasn't able to escape out the back fast enough and thus active exhaust would be needed. For the record, Im no expert on any of this and I could be wrong, but these are just my impressions based on what I've read and what makes sense to me, etc. It seems to me that intaking as much air as possible is only naturally going to bring the case temp as close as possible to ambient temps and keep any passively cooled components cooler. It also seems to make all of those intake fans work as exhaust too, because the positive pressure helps evacuate air and give as much passive exhaust as needed. Just seems to make better use of whatever number of fans you have and it happens to help minimize dust, too.


I find the logic contradictory ..... if you are using the same filters on the fan inlets as the grate inlets, how could their ability to prevent dust be affected in any way shape or form ? Again, postive is much easier in that the case manufacturer takes care of most of it for you .... but it's not like any of us couldn't do a better job. The Antec Lanboy my wife uses now has no front cover and can't recall if it ever had a filter...... it does now..... took the fan out slid a section of pantyhose over it and screwed it back in..... now air is double filtered







...... anyone know where I can get pantyhose in blue as it doesn't match the LED ?

I have a room with a fan blowing air in with a filter in front of it on my east wall.
I now reverse the fan to blow out and I put the same filter on the west wall.

I have the same cfm blowing in and out. The pulses of the fan blades as they rotate and now no longer applying cyclic pressure an inch away from the fan nor transmitting any vibrations to the filter.

But the point remains to be resolved..... the fixation on positive pressure at the expense of all else. How does any discussion about turning an exhaust fan into an intake fan wind up with a back and forth about whether positive case pressure is going to b better at a 9 instead of an 8 on scale of 1 to 10 .... and no where is it brought up whether a filter will be added in front of the new intake fan ?


----------



## Branish

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> I find the logic contradictory ..... if you are using the same filters on the fan inlets as the grate inlets, how could their ability to prevent dust be affected in any way shape or form ? Again, postive is much easier in that the case manufacturer takes care of most of it for you .... but it's not like any of us couldn't do a better job. The Antec Lanboy my wife uses now has no front cover and can't recall if it ever had a filter...... it does now..... took the fan out slid a section of pantyhose over it and screwed it back in..... now air is double filtered
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ...... anyone know where I can get pantyhose in blue as it doesn't match the LED ?
> 
> I have a room with a fan blowing air in with a filter in front of it on my east wall.
> I now reverse the fan to blow out and I put the same filter on the west wall.
> 
> I have the same cfm blowing in and out. The pulses of the fan blades as they rotate and now no longer applying cyclic pressure an inch away from the fan nor transmitting any vibrations to the filter.
> 
> But the point remains to be resolved..... the fixation on positive pressure at the expense of all else. How does any discussion about turning an exhaust fan into an intake fan wind up with a back and forth about whether positive case pressure is going to b better at a 9 instead of an 8 on scale of 1 to 10 .... and no where is it brought up whether a filter will be added in front of the new intake fan ?


Yeah I don't know. I have a Silverstone dust filter on my rear fan because it's intaking but I only have it in that configuration because I like the way the Eloop looks when it faces that direction. As for dust build up that's not really a concern of mine since I clean the rig regularly and am always swapping parts or changing things. My build is primarily for looks even if that is a bit shallow. The added performance is just a bonus since I'm no extreme overclocker and I hate the sound of video card fans under load. I prefer a quiet rig.


----------



## Essenbe

Positive air flow works. It has never said it stops all dust, but I read a test result that said it reduced dust by 30%, which I think is significant. Perhaps Silverstone explained it better than I can. http://silverstonetek.com/techtalk_cont.php?tid=wh_positive&area=usa


----------



## JackNaylorPE

I couldn't ask for a better reference than that Silverstone article as it perfectly illustrates my point:
Quote:


> The diagrams show that chassis with *positive air pressure can prevent dust from penetrating into the chassis by use of filters* on intake fans and *forcing air out of the chassis through unfiltered vents* and gaps. On the other hand, a chassis with negative air pressure *draws in air from unfiltered vents and gaps* that even with fan filters placed on key intake fans, dust can penetrate into the chassis easily.


I don't see how one could walk away from that article after anything more than a cursory read thinking that it's positive pressure that is primarily responsible for keeping dust away. To my reading, the only reason that positive pressure is a consideration is, in their example, it forces all the intake air thru filtered openings. Silverstone is clearly saying is that dust gets in through openings that are unfiltered....whether or not a fan is there is immaterial, whether or not case pressure is negative or positive is material only in the sense that the intakes in their example are filtered.

For simplicities sake , let's take a budget case with four fan mounts ..... two in front (pre-installed) and two in back (optional), no other grilles....all case slot openings have solid blanks. Take the fans out and leave the filters where they are.

What will result in more dust inside the case ?

1. Mount the fans as intakes in the back with no filters (positive case pressure) air going out thru the old fan locations
2. Mount the fans as exhausts in the backs with no filters (negative case pressure) air coming thru the old filtered fan locations.

I'm going with negative in this example because all the air.... or 99.5% of it is filtered in No. 2 and none of it is filtered in No. 1

With respect to the Enthoo, given the known impact on fan efficiency from the fan grilles and filters on the Enthoo, as long as we maintain positive pressure, why worry about dust ? ..... just remove all the filters / grilles, use 18 intake fans and with all that positive pressure, dust couldn't in any way be a problem !

Again, not saying negative pressure is better than positive for keeping dust out, saying that the only reason positive is of value in any way, shape or form on, especially on a WC build, is when you have made sure all inlets are filtered.


----------



## Essenbe

Also, in the for what it's worth department, with the increased threat of chemical attacks in the past 10 years or so, the US Navy implemented a policy of having positive air pressure in all Navy ships. The purpose was, in case of a chemical attack, the positive air pressure would tend to blow the chemicals out of the ship rather than sucking it in.


----------



## Strider49

Hi,

I'm a proud owner of this extremely well built and thought case. I purchased it last week and I'll be building my new machine in it. I'll go with an i7 4770K, a Hero board, 16GB of G.Skill 2400MHz ram and a 780 Ti (don't know which one right now, maybe the EVGA SC ACX or the Asus DirectCU II OC).

My main question here is: should I go the Air Cooling route or the Water Cooling one? I didn't want to spend that much money in a custom WC setup, knowing the 4770K won't probably let me go much high in clocks or voltages (I'm talking about passing through the 4.5-4.6GHz mark).

If I go with a top notch air cooler like the Thermalright Silver Arrow IB-E, what kind of performance (temperatures) should I expect from this case? Is there anyone in here with the same setup as me who chose to install an air cooler on this case?

By the way, since you are talking about positive vs negative pressure inside the case, where should I place the pre-installed fans? Should I buy more fans like the 140 AF series from Corsair?

Shouldn't it be number of intake fans equals number of exhaust fans (like 3:3)?

Should I buy additional dust filters to prevent dust from entering through the open holes at the back of the case?

Cumps


----------



## Branish

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Strider49*
> 
> Hi,
> 
> I'm a proud owner of this extremely well built and thought case. I purchased it last week and I'll be building my new machine in it. I'll go with an i7 4770K, a Hero board, 16GB of G.Skill 2400MHz ram and a 780 Ti (don't know which one right now, maybe the EVGA SC ACX or the Asus DirectCU II OC).
> 
> My main question here is: should I go the Air Cooling route or the Water Cooling one? I didn't want to spend that much money in a custom WC setup, knowing the 4770K won't probably let me go much high in clocks or voltages (I'm talking about passing through the 4.5-4.6GHz mark).
> 
> If I go with a top notch air cooler like the Thermalright Silver Arrow IB-E, what kind of performance (temperatures) should I expect from this case? Is there anyone in here with the same setup as me who chose to install an air cooler on this case?
> 
> By the way, since you are talking about positive vs negative pressure inside the case, where should I place the pre-installed fans? Should I buy more fans like the 140 AF series from Corsair?
> 
> Shouldn't it be number of intake fans equals number of exhaust fans (like 3:3)?
> 
> Should I buy additional dust filters to prevent dust from entering through the open holes at the back of the case?
> 
> Cumps


If you don't want to spend a lot of money I recommend air cooling as water cooling can quickly add up to a lot of money depending on: what you want to cool, acrylic vs soft tubing, looks vs ultimate performance that kind of thing. This case has great air cooling and the included fans are excellent. Even at low rpm they move quite a bit of air and are quiet. The Corsair AF fans don't really compare in my opinion. You can really just chuck a rig in it without buying anything additional and be good to go whilst leaving the stock fan setup which is 3 intake and 2 exhaust.


----------



## CoopsTHC

Build Log - Project Frostworks


----------



## Seid Dark

Caseking.de updated their shipping estimate for white Primo, now it's 30.4 instead of previous 30.3. I don't understand how painting the case white can take so long, white one isn't even new revision as far as I know







I'm so tired of waiting.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Strider49*
> 
> Hi,
> 
> I'm a proud owner of this extremely well built and thought case. I purchased it last week and I'll be building my new machine in it. I'll go with an i7 4770K, a Hero board, 16GB of G.Skill 2400MHz ram and a 780 Ti (don't know which one right now, maybe the EVGA SC ACX or the Asus DirectCU II OC).
> 
> My main question here is: should I go the Air Cooling route or the Water Cooling one? I didn't want to spend that much money in a custom WC setup, knowing the 4770K won't probably let me go much high in clocks or voltages (I'm talking about passing through the 4.5-4.6GHz mark).
> 
> If I go with a top notch air cooler like the Thermalright Silver Arrow IB-E, what kind of performance (temperatures) should I expect from this case? Is there anyone in here with the same setup as me who chose to install an air cooler on this case?
> 
> By the way, since you are talking about positive vs negative pressure inside the case, where should I place the pre-installed fans? Should I buy more fans like the 140 AF series from Corsair?
> 
> Shouldn't it be number of intake fans equals number of exhaust fans (like 3:3)?
> 
> Should I buy additional dust filters to prevent dust from entering through the open holes at the back of the case?
> 
> Cumps


Welcome to our world.









H2O is very expensive. A couple of radiators, CPU & GPU blocks, pump, reservoir, fittings, tubing, etc. add up very fans to $500 or more.

I'm running a i7 980 & ASUS GTX580DCUII with no problems. Very cool and quiet. I monitor CPU and GPU intake air temps (see case cooling link in sig). They are same as room ambient. My EP sets on a caster base which might make a difference but I doubt it. Stock fans are all that's needed. Mov e back & top fans forward to move cool air down to CPU intake. Move bottom fan forward to better supply GPU. I added a couple and have 3x top intake, 2x front intake & 2x bottom intake. The included PWM fan hub controls them.

I didn't need them but got them as part of trade for castor base. No exhaust fans and 5 intakes means all the extra case venting is a exhausting air so no dust problems. Stock fans are better than AF140 fans. Corsair's' look nice but are not all that great.

Balancing airflow is about how much air is being push into and pulled out of case. Because of filters, grills, baffles, etc. the fans flow different amounts of air even though they are same fans... And with good fans (decent H2O & CFM ratings) exhaust fans are not as important.. unless needed to improve airflow toward where they exhaust.

Not having exhaust fans means air is always flowing out of case so no need of additional filters.









Silver Arrow SB-E is coolest, but only because it has 2500rpm 130crm TY-143 fans (I expect IB-E Extreme to be same).. I've used the TY-143 fans on TC14PE with similar performance as Silver Arrow SB-E. The TY-143 fans are same noise level as other fans up to 1300rpm, but when running full speed are as loud as CLCs but with better temps.

With top air coolers choice is more about quality, fit, noise and looks than performance. Have used Silver Arrow, PH-TC14PE, Silver Arrow SB-E Extreme, and Cryorig R1 Ultimate. All cool about the same. Just got Silver Arrow IB-E Extreme but have not used it yet.


----------



## Ouro

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seid Dark*
> 
> Caseking.de updated their shipping estimate for white Primo, now it's 30.4 instead of previous 30.3. I don't understand how painting the case white can take so long, white one isn't even new revision as far as I know
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm so tired of waiting.


I know! My entitled American behind can only wait so long! I haven't even been able to pre-order in the states.


----------



## rpjkw11

I'm in the EXTREME minority: I'm happily using the Phanteks TC-14PE in blue. I can make the argument that using air cooling in an EP is almost blasphemous given the water cooling potential, but as I'm not an extreme overclocker a good air cooling systems fits my needs perfectly. Plus I don't have to worry about a leak, no matter how slight the chance. I've always preferred full tower cases and, within reason, a goodly number of fans. Sound levels have only been on my radar for the last 18 months or so, but given the quality of case and cpu cooling fans now days, a quiet and efficient air cooled system is easily achieved.

I'm running a delidded i7 4770K oc'd to 4.1 and I just upgraded to an Asus GTX780TI Direct CU GPU. I'm also using two 256gb Samsung 840 Pro SSDs and a WD 1tb black HDD so my cooling needs are fairly simple. That allows me to buy a case, a GOOD case, that I find visually pleasing while the nitty gritty details can be largely ignored. The EP is, to me at least, a perfect case. My only complaint is I wanted white, but I have one shortly.

No matter what kind of PC system one builds, from simple to extreme, the EP is about the best choice. No, I'm not a fan boy (though I could play one on TV) I just enjoy a case that looks great and is limited only by my creativity. I can truly do what I jolly well please with the EP and that's the name of the game.


----------



## doyll

@ Ouro
Last I heard Phanteks USA will start taking pre-orders as soon as they know their delivery date.

@ rpjkw11
Couldn't have said it better.








I do feel guilty not having an expensive H2O system, but not enough to loose any sleep over.


----------



## CoopsTHC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Strider49*
> 
> Hi,
> 
> I'm a proud owner of this extremely well built and thought case. I purchased it last week and I'll be building my new machine in it. I'll go with an i7 4770K, a Hero board, 16GB of G.Skill 2400MHz ram and a 780 Ti (don't know which one right now, maybe the EVGA SC ACX or the Asus DirectCU II OC).
> 
> My main question here is: should I go the Air Cooling route or the Water Cooling one? I didn't want to spend that much money in a custom WC setup, knowing the 4770K won't probably let me go much high in clocks or voltages (I'm talking about passing through the 4.5-4.6GHz mark).
> 
> If I go with a top notch air cooler like the Thermalright Silver Arrow IB-E, what kind of performance (temperatures) should I expect from this case? Is there anyone in here with the same setup as me who chose to install an air cooler on this case?
> 
> By the way, since you are talking about positive vs negative pressure inside the case, where should I place the pre-installed fans? Should I buy more fans like the 140 AF series from Corsair?
> 
> Shouldn't it be number of intake fans equals number of exhaust fans (like 3:3)?
> 
> Should I buy additional dust filters to prevent dust from entering through the open holes at the back of the case?
> 
> Cumps


Water Cooling is very expensive, I have just finished buying all my water cooling components which pretty much equal the cost of the hardware. If I had known how much it was going to cost, I wouldn't have bothered but when I worked out how much I had spent there was no turning back.


----------



## simsim44

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CoopsTHC*
> 
> Water Cooling is very expensive, I have just finished buying all my water cooling components which pretty much equal the cost of the hardware. If I had known how much it was going to cost, I wouldn't have bothered but when I worked out how much I had spent there was no turning back.


LOL you are not alone and I still need another geewizz (1K$) to finish.


----------



## skywalker311

If you like the white case, just wait until you see there new Special Edition Enthoo Primo . The ones I saw was the Black case with a white motherboard tray and the side where you put the hard drive. There was a black and orange to. They said there will be a black and red one. I would think they also have blue and green. Here the link if you want to see them.


----------



## skywalker311

I know what you are talking about I've got $1500 in water cooling alone.


----------



## simsim44

I have seen that and something caught my eye the first time, Is this guy like 7 foot tall he seems to be big compared to the case.


----------



## skywalker311

LOL.


----------



## chrisnyc75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skywalker311*
> 
> I know what you are talking about I've got $1500 in water cooling alone.


It's crazy expensive, but on the bright side most of the hardware you use in your first build will grow with you through several pc builds. You'll only need to replace cpu & gpu blocks -- your radiators, fittings, fans, res, etc, if cared for properly, should last for many years.

Still not sure it's technically "worth it", but you can't take it with you, so why not spend it on what you love?


----------



## simsim44

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chrisnyc75*
> 
> but you can't take it with you, so why not spend it on what you love?


Strong believer of that! I only got one ticket for this ride I don't know about the rest of ya, I heard this once or twice " he who dies with the most toys wins"


----------



## doyll

Guess I just love too many things.


----------



## paulyoung

For all the people who are trying to work out fan locations, I have tried mine 2 different ways. My set up is a 3 x 140 monsta up top, and a 4 x 120 Monsta in the bottom with 2 140's up front and a 140 in the rear. all fans are Akasa Vipers, @ 7v and the rads are both in push pull. I'm running XFire 7950's and an i5 4670k @ 4.2 on 1.015v. The case is lifted by about 900mm.

Set up 1.

Front intakes
Bottom rad intake
Top rad exhaust
Rear fan intake

My cpu temp after an hour of OCCT was an average min, 24, and an average max of, 44. The GPU's were an average of 28 min and max 48.

Set up 2 ( people on other forums have slated this way )

Front intake.
Rear exhaust
Top and bottom both intake

My cpu temps after an hour of OCCT was an average min of 24 ( the same ) but an average max of 40. GPU's were an average min of 28 ( the same ) and an average max of 44.

With set up 2 my way of thinking is, although heat rises and the top rad is intake, it is still better than the hot air coming out of the bottom rad, and then having to pass through the top rad to escape. The air outside of the case is bound to be cooler than the air in the top of the case. So my set up is all intake 1 rear exhaust. I don't like the idea of the already used air coming from the bottom rad, being used again once warm to cool the top rad. It kinda doesn't make sense.

Like mentioned, on another not to be mentioned Forum, every comment about my choice of fan/rad set up has had nothing but negative comments. I only had her up and running for a few days, before I had 2 weeks of down time, because of a rad change, so I'm going to post screen shots later, to prove to the haters my way works.

GPU results after a heaven run.



And after a quick half an hour run of OCCT, an average of 47.


----------



## skywalker311

Your right you can't take it with you so you might as well in joy it now. This is my 6TH build and I've done a little water cooling but this time I went all out. Plus I'm going to keep this build for awhile. That why I went with EKWB. There a great company. What really cool is when new CPU socket sizes come out they make brackets for them so you don't have to get rid of CPU water block.


----------



## skywalker311

I need some info on getting a plate for my case. What I want to do is take the plate off that on the side of the case and replace it with a ROG logo. I want same size black plate but with a ROG logo cut out.
Then have a rog logo cut out in clear and red acrylic and put it on the backside of the plate with a 3mm white led to light it up. If someone know where I can get this done please let me know. Thanks.


----------



## Seid Dark

Thanks paulyoung, you convinced me to go all intake with my rads in upcoming build. +rep.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skywalker311*
> 
> I need some info on getting a plate for my case. What I want to do is take the plate off that on the side of the case and replace it with a ROG logo. I want same size black plate but with a ROG logo cut out.
> Then have a rog logo cut out in clear and red acrylic and put it on the backside of the plate with a 3mm white led to light it up. If someone know where I can get this done please let me know. Thanks.


I'm not sure I understand exactly what it is you are wanting to do, but sounds like a job for Coldzero. There's no one better at making custom plates, backplates, light panels, etc ... I've used coldzero several times now.

http://www.coldzero.eu/

You can create an account in their forum and make post in their 'product request' thread explaining exactly what you want and the dimensions for it.

http://www.coldzero.eu/forum/forumdisplay.php?60-Product-Request


----------



## skywalker311

Thanks for the info. That would be great to get it done there but I'm in states. It be cheaper to find someone here to do it for me. This is what I'm trying to get done.
What I'm wanting to do is remove the phanteks face plate and get another plate the same size. Then have the republic of gamers logo cutout in the middle. Then I need the rog logo cutout in acrylic and put on the face plate then I'll add a led to light it up. Hope this explains it better. So if you guys know of someone in the US that I can get this done. Please let me know. Also here a pic of the ROG logo lite up.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

I'm in the US too, and I've never heard of anyone doing the kind of work coldzero does in the US for anywhere near the prices he asks. Most of coldzero's customer-base in in the US. My last order was for 3 GPU backplates, an sli bridge, and a custom-sized panel all engraved with an artwork design I created. It cost me right at 50 euro ($70) and that included 3-day shipping to the US. I know it would be a bit more for colors and an illuminated panel, but still something worth considering.

If you do manage to find anyone in the US doing this type of work, please do post a link.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Strider49*
> 
> Hi,
> 
> I'm a proud owner of this extremely well built and thought case. I purchased it last week and I'll be building my new machine in it. I'll go with an i7 4770K, a Hero board, 16GB of G.Skill 2400MHz ram and a 780 Ti (don't know which one right now, maybe the EVGA SC ACX or the Asus DirectCU II OC).
> 
> My main question here is: should I go the Air Cooling route or the Water Cooling one? I didn't want to spend that much money in a custom WC setup, knowing the 4770K won't probably let me go much high in clocks or voltages (I'm talking about passing through the 4.5-4.6GHz mark).
> 
> If I go with a top notch air cooler like the Thermalright Silver Arrow IB-E, what kind of performance (temperatures) should I expect from this case? Is there anyone in here with the same setup as me who chose to install an air cooler on this case?
> 
> By the way, since you are talking about positive vs negative pressure inside the case, where should I place the pre-installed fans? Should I buy more fans like the 140 AF series from Corsair?
> 
> Shouldn't it be number of intake fans equals number of exhaust fans (like 3:3)?
> 
> Should I buy additional dust filters to prevent dust from entering through the open holes at the back of the case?
> 
> Cumps


Cupla considerations ....

-At $200 the Hero is a bit overpriced ....I usually opt for the MSI GD-65 over the Hero ....same feature set, MIL Spec hardened components, better performance and I usually pay $155 - 165 for the GD

-Mushkin Redlines are the same price but have better timings than the GSkills or Corsair Vengeance (10-12-12-28 vs 10-12-12-31)
....$175ish f/////
-The EVGA SC, unlike the EBGA Classified, is simply a reference board with stock PCB and stock VRM and a pretty good cooler (which if you are going to WC, you will take off). The Asus bpard also has an excellent cooler but it has a custom PCB and significantly beefed up VRM. It's the VRM which will hit the highest temps under WC and having more phases allows it to process the same voltage while running much cooler.

You are correct in that these days, water cooling brings a much lower return on investment with Haswell's fast rising voltages as OCs increase. The Silver Arrow is a great cooler.....usually edging out the Noctua and falling just behind the Phantek's PH-TC14-PE. The air cooling setup with the delivered fans would be 3 fans blowing in (front and bottom) and 2 blowing out (top an rear). The rear fan is unfiltered so even though it will run slightly more efficient, it's not enough to offset the number advantage. Since your case will maintain positive pressure, and all fan intake inlets are filtered, you are pretty much covered on the dust front.

So leave the fans right where they are and if you are going to add fans ..... say two intakes and the side panel and two exhaust in the "attic" , you're good....could even add another on the bottom. Phanteks provides filters on all the above mentioned intakes so no need to buy more. If ya have more fans blowing out than blowing in, you won't need to buy any additional filters.

If ya water cooling, may want to consider the 780 Posiedon from Asus, now on sale in Europe, reviews have been positive.....with the major disappointment being "Why wasn't this a Ti ?.

WC is expensive ..... GPU Blocks w/ backplates run $140, CPU's $80..... 280+420 rads would run ya $160 .... $40 for an engineered coolant.... $175 for pump and reservoir....fittings / tubing etc. If ya asking will that have a ROI (Return on Investment) in the performance department I'd have to say no, not a significant one considering the cost. But it sure does have it in the aesthetics department and it is fun







.

As for adding fans, there's no better fan that I have seen than the Phanteks SP140s. In a subsequent test to the one below, an Antec fan edged it out but it had that annoying clicking sound.

http://www.silentpcreview.com/article1345-page7.html

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Essenbe*
> 
> Also, in the for what it's worth department, with the increased threat of chemical attacks in the past 10 years or so, the US Navy implemented a policy of having positive air pressure in all Navy ships. The purpose was, in case of a chemical attack, the positive air pressure would tend to blow the chemicals out of the ship rather than sucking it in.


That's a common practice in underground confined spaces which can accumulate methane, hydrogen sulfide which interestingly enough, the concern is getting breathable oxygen in instead of those hazardous gasses out. So air is blown in from outside the space rather than sucking the bad gases out......But on a ship, I gotta wonder .... if the idea is to keep the entire ship under positive pressure..... where does the intake air necessary to maintain the pressure come from ? Big gas bomb explodes on deck .... fans blowing in get their air from ? Scrubbers capable of handling every possible gas on every inlet from a capital and operational strandpoint 24/7 would be an enormous cost.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skywalker311*
> 
> I know what you are talking about I've got $1500 in water cooling alone.


Going ahead make me feel bad







..... $2,358.45 .... tho that includes about $175 in upgraded tools, $210 is cable sleeving wires and connectors ....


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paulyoung*
> 
> For all the people who are trying to work out fan locations, I have tried mine 2 different ways. My set up is a 3 x 140 monsta up top, and a 4 x 120 Monsta in the bottom with 2 140's up front and a 140 in the rear. all fans are Akasa Vipers, @ 7v and the rads are both in push pull. I'm running XFire 7950's and an i5 4670k @ 4.2 on 1.015v. The case is lifted by about 900mm


Your results are to be expected..... with air leaving the rads at least 5C warmer with a 10C Delta T, the 2nd rad would be half as efficient.

BTW, were you able to load GPUs fully with the 7970s and OCCT ? nVidia detects it and won't put on more than 28% load.... Furmark does the job tho.


----------



## skywalker311

You can get a really good kit from either EK or XSPC.
The two best places to get water cooling parts is http://www.frozencpu.com/ or http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php

$320 and you get EK-KIT H3O 360 HFX water cooling kit includes following items:

- EK-Supremacy
- EK-Backplate CPU Universal
- EK-CoolStream RAD XTX 360
- EK-FAN Silent 120-1600 RPM (3 pcs)
- EK-DCP 4.0 Pump
- EK-Multioption RES X3 150
- EK-DCP PUMP mounting plate KIT
- TUBE Masterkleer 12,7/9,5 CLEAR (2 meters)
- EK-PSC Fitting 10mm - G1/4 Nickel (8 pcs)
- EK-Ekoolant UV Blue (concentrate 100ml)
- TIM Gelid GC-Xtreme (EKWB 2g)

$265 XPSC Raystorm AX360

RayStorm Intel CPU Waterblock
D5 Photon 170 Tube Reservoir (optional 270)
D5 Vario Pump
AX360 Dual Radiator
G1/4″ to 7/16″ Compression Fittings (Black Chrome) x6 (optional other sizes/colors)
XSPC 1650rpm 120mm Fan x3 (optional speeds)
120mm Fan Grill (Black) x3
Intel and AMD RayStorm Brackets
Socket 1366 and 1150/1155/1156 Backplates
Socket AM2 and AM3 mounting kit
80mm to 120mm Radiator brackets
3mm Twin Blue LED with 4Pin Molex (optional other colors)
5mm Blue LED with 4Pin Molex (optional other colors)
2 Meters of Clear 7/16″ Hose (optional other colors)
24pin ATX Bridge Tool
K2 Thermal Paste

There are cheaper ones to, I was just using these two because of the 360mm rad. then there are the all in one water cooling system from newegg and it goes from $50 to $180.


----------



## paulyoung

BTW, were you able to load GPUs fully with the 7970s and OCCT ? nVidia detects it and won't put on more than 28% load.... Furmark does the job tho.[/quote]

I have no idea mate, to be honest, I don't take any notice of the GPU's when running OCCT, all I can tell you is the maximum temp whilst it was running was 30 degrees, so at a guess no they didn't. I'll do another run in the AM, and get back to you on that one mate.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> The air cooling setup with the delivered fans would be 3 fans blowing in (front and bottom) and 2 blowing out (top an rear). The rear fan is unfiltered so even though it will run slightly more efficient, it's not enough to offset the number advantage. Since your case will maintain positive pressure, and all fan intake inlets are filtered, you are pretty much covered on the dust front.


I'm betting the front and bottom intake grill area, grill density are restricitng 3-40% more than back vents. Top has area but remember how much improvement you had removing the top grill?
Quote:


> So leave the fans right where they are and if you are going to add fans ..... say two intakes and the side panel and two exhaust in the "attic" , you're good....could even add another on the bottom. Phanteks provides filters on all the above mentioned intakes so no need to buy more.


Sorry Jack , but I disagree about exhaust fans in the attic. Reason is they pull heated air from GPU up around CPU and motherboard components instead of exhausting it out the back.

Using forward vent area in top for intakes moves cool air down to CPU and motherboard, than out the back Front and forward bottom intakes move cool air to GPU than out the back. .
Back of EP has plenty of vent area and any excess will find it's way out side or back top and bottom vent area. This givs EP very good front to back airflow and supplying plenty of ambient temperature air to components.
I find leaving the I/O cover out usually improves motherboard component temps too. Better airflow close to motherboard.
Quote:


> If ya have more fans blowing out than blowing in, you won't need to buy any additional filters.


Wake up mate!








You got that backwards.








More exhaust than intake is negative pressure and draws air (dust) in through every opening in case.


----------



## GhostFaceKeller

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> I'm betting the front and bottom intake grill area, grill density are restricitng 3-40% more than back vents. Top has area but remember how much improvement you had removing the top grill?
> Sorry Jack , but I disagree about exhaust fans in the attic. Reason is they pull heated air from GPU up around CPU and motherboard components instead of exhausting it out the back.
> 
> Using forward vent area in top for intakes moves cool air down to CPU and motherboard, than out the back Front and forward bottom intakes move cool air to GPU than out the back. .
> Back of EP has plenty of vent area and any excess will find it's way out side or back top and bottom vent area. This givs EP very good front to back airflow and supplying plenty of ambient temperature air to components.
> I find leaving the I/O cover out usually improves motherboard component temps too. Better airflow close to motherboard.
> Wake up mate!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You got that backwards.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> More exhaust than intake is negative pressure and draws air (dust) in through every opening in case.


Hi All. Im interested in this airflow and dust topic too when it comes to the Primo.

I currently have three AF120s as intakes in the bottom of the case, pulling air up and through the case, i have another as an exhaust towards the top (rear) of the cause, near the two fans connected (as intakes) to my H105 RAD. I moved all the stock phanteks 140mm fans that arrived inside the case (apart from the front LED fans) to the top section and all three act as exhausts, meaning push pull on the rad.

Unfortunatley the front cover panel clips on the case arrived broken, I'm awaiting some more front clips from Phanteks, but at the moment that area is not sealed and is open to dust.

Im wondering if I should flip the bottom fans over to be exhausts, or if that will cause negative pressure as you say Doyll.


----------



## doyll

@ paulyoung
Nice bit of work!








4c is nice improvement in temps. You say hot air rises but that is with no fans involved. Fans easily overcome it and air (whatever the temp moves where fans push it.









@ GhostFaceKeller,
I don't understand your top setup. You say you have a rear exhaust near top and 2x top intakes on 105, but than you say you have 3x F1409SP on top as echaust???


----------



## GhostFaceKeller

Hi Doyll, sorry, probably didnt explaint that very well I will try to be more specific.

on the inside back of the case, there is a spot towards where just about every case comes with a fan pre-installed as an exhaust. I have an AF 120 there acting as an exhaust currently. then in the roof of the case, I have the 105 mounted as per normal (IE with the rad fans mounted underneath it as intakes) then in the roof cavity I have the three phanteks fans acting as exhausts.

Sorry if I'm being confusing. Have a look at the pic of my rig in my signature and you will see the single exhaust fan at the upper rear.

I'm OK with the setup up top - but I'm mostly interested to know what people do at the bottom of their cases - intakes or exhausts. I would assume most people would place most exhausts towards the top, because hot air rises and you would want to push that air out along its natural flow path, but as you mentioned Doyll this pushes hot air from the GPU and other components towards the CPU and then out the top.

Thanks!


----------



## GhostFaceKeller

Also ignore the bottom fans in the pic, I originally install them as exhausts then swapped to intakes after that was taken.


----------



## Strider49

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> Cupla considerations ....
> 
> -At $200 the Hero is a bit overpriced ....I usually opt for the MSI GD-65 over the Hero ....same feature set, MIL Spec hardened components, better performance and I usually pay $155 - 165 for the GD
> 
> -Mushkin Redlines are the same price but have better timings than the GSkills or Corsair Vengeance (10-12-12-28 vs 10-12-12-31)
> ....$175ish f/////
> -The EVGA SC, unlike the EBGA Classified, is simply a reference board with stock PCB and stock VRM and a pretty good cooler (which if you are going to WC, you will take off). The Asus bpard also has an excellent cooler but it has a custom PCB and significantly beefed up VRM. It's the VRM which will hit the highest temps under WC and having more phases allows it to process the same voltage while running much cooler.
> 
> You are correct in that these days, water cooling brings a much lower return on investment with Haswell's fast rising voltages as OCs increase. The Silver Arrow is a great cooler.....usually edging out the Noctua and falling just behind the Phantek's PH-TC14-PE. The air cooling setup with the delivered fans would be 3 fans blowing in (front and bottom) and 2 blowing out (top an rear). The rear fan is unfiltered so even though it will run slightly more efficient, it's not enough to offset the number advantage. Since your case will maintain positive pressure, and all fan intake inlets are filtered, you are pretty much covered on the dust front.
> 
> So leave the fans right where they are and if you are going to add fans ..... say two intakes and the side panel and two exhaust in the "attic" , you're good....could even add another on the bottom. Phanteks provides filters on all the above mentioned intakes so no need to buy more. If ya have more fans blowing out than blowing in, you won't need to buy any additional filters.
> 
> If ya water cooling, may want to consider the 780 Posiedon from Asus, now on sale in Europe, reviews have been positive.....with the major disappointment being "Why wasn't this a Ti ?.
> 
> WC is expensive ..... GPU Blocks w/ backplates run $140, CPU's $80..... 280+420 rads would run ya $160 .... $40 for an engineered coolant.... $175 for pump and reservoir....fittings / tubing etc. If ya asking will that have a ROI (Return on Investment) in the performance department I'd have to say no, not a significant one considering the cost. But it sure does have it in the aesthetics department and it is fun
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> As for adding fans, there's no better fan that I have seen than the Phanteks SP140s. In a subsequent test to the one below, an Antec fan edged it out but it had that annoying clicking sound.
> 
> http://www.silentpcreview.com/article1345-page7.html
> 
> (...)


Thanks for your insight!

I'm in Portugal and here I can get the MSI GD65 for about 171€ and the Hero for 179€. Not really much of a difference. When I think of Asus ROG boards, I see top of the line performance, many useful features, great components. I'm not a fan boy though, I never had a single ROG product. The advertised military components on MSI boards and VGAs are just a gimmick or are they really better than what one can find on other brands products?

I can't seem to find those Mushkin Redlines here in Portugal. I didn't even know about the existence of that brand. Does that somewhat lower last timing number really make a big difference?

So, are you saying the Asus 780 Ti DirectCU II OC has a custom PCB and better VRM? Didn't know about that one too...







I must state I haven't made up my mind yet regarding the GPU issue, they are all so close to each other, I think. All I know is that I want the best 780 Ti for the money, having a 3 year limited warranty in my country, covering both materials and workmanship. At first, I considered the MSI Gaming (9.9 on TPU review, military class components...







), but then I realised MSI only offers a 2 year warranty in Portugal.
Yesterday, I saw a discount on the Lightning version of the R9 290X in a UK store and then my doubts grew even bigger. According to Guru, it can almost equal and even surpass in some instances the "basic" non-reference design 780 Ti's like the EVGA SC ACX, costing slightly less.
There's also new "contenders": Asus Matrix Platinum 780 Ti and R9 290X... Should I wait to see how these'll come up?

Yeah, I think I'll go with a top air cooler for now. In the future I may think about replacing it with a custom WC setup though, as this case really shines in that department. I even considered buying the Swiftech H320, but it's been a P.I.T.A. to find it in stock in portuguese or european stores.
So, do you recommend the Phanteks PH-TC14-PE air cooler? I can get it for about 90€; the Thermalright Silver Arrow IB-E Extreme costs about 10-15€ less and it has those red or orange fans that really go up with the red tone on the Hero and the GSkills. Do you think the Phanteks is worth the extra cost? What's my the best option, performance and silence wise? My goal is trying to reach 4.4 or 4.5GHz stable, more if I am lucky.

As to the fans issue, I was thinking about passing the fan on the top to the bottom as intake and place 3 other fans on the top as exhaust, therefore equalising numbers of intake and exhaust fans. If you say that it shouldn't be needed, then I will maintain the stock fans in their places. Perhaps it is better to do some temperature tests before getting something else. If I still want to add those 3 extra fans after that, some Phanteks SP140s it will be.

So, should I maintain a positive pressure inside the case to be covered on the dust front? If I put all the fans as intake, as some of you say, won't the fans blow air and spread dust all over the case?
My intuition says the following: place intake fans on the bottom and front, where the air is cooler, and blow out the (hot) air through the upper rear and top sites. It doesn't make much sense to me to pull cooler air into the case through the rear or top fan mounts, which will get into contact with the hotter air in that region, perhaps having some undesired effects. Please correct me if I'm wrong.


----------



## Strider49

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> (...)
> 
> Wake up mate!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You got that backwards.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> More exhaust than intake is negative pressure and draws air (dust) in through every opening in case.


I thought so. Something seemed to be wrong in that sentence.


----------



## tolis626

While still waiting for money to be available so I can continue with my build,I slowly started planning my WC loop and have some questions.My system will most probably include a 4670k and a 780.

Now,I'm thinking of going full out and having dual rads,so a 420 at the top (That's a done deal) . About the bootom....I still don't know.I was thinking 360 or 480,but that way I would lose the drive cages (Not that I care all that much but just sayin') and I would spend a crapload of money on fans.Normally,someone who is willing to spend big on a wc rig shouldn't care if they pay for a couple more fans,but I'm on a tight-ish budget (Meaning there will be just enough money for everything), So I came to consider using a 280 with Phanteks' excellent fans. Yeah,it doesn't look as good but I'll live with that I think.Thing is,is it worth it to go at least 360,if not 480? I suppose I'm already deep within the overkill zone with a 420 and a 280 for the CPU and a single GPU,but I do it for the looks as much as I do it for the performance,although I may be getting a secod GPU down the line.

Secondly,I'm concerned about the GPU.I really wanted to water cool a Classified and overclock the hell (and probably some of heaven) out of it, but that would be too expensive (560€ for the Classy and another 100-200€ for a water block) and I would be better off buying a 780ti and leaving it on air for that money.My other options are :

- A reference PCB model like the EVGA (For the warranty) for 440€
- A cheaper custom PCB model like the Asus DCUII for 450€
- Asus' Poseidon for 570€
- EVGA's Hydro Copper Classified for...too much to matter at this point

Normally, for 570€ I would go for the Poseidon and be done with it. It would save me money from not buying a water block and backplate,time from not having to replace anything with anything and I wouldn't void my warranty while replacing the stock cooler (Although I think EVGA honors their warranty even if the card has been tampered with). But Asus being Asus,they decided to use aluminum in the GPU block and they also leave the VRMs air-cooled. I'm not so concerned about the VRMs, as the Asus cooler does a decent job of cooling them,but having aluminum in my build,especially after reading all the horror stories posted online, pushes me away from the Poseidon. I know some say that anodized aluminum is fine, and I agree with them (I'm looking at you Jack!







), but I don't know whether I can trust Asus with that. Why they didn't go with a copper block is beyond me...

If I decide to go for something like the DCUII (Although I'm hesitant of going with Asus because of complaints about their warranties), do I need a special water block because of the custom PCB design or can I use any block for the 780? The reason I'm asking is because the selection of water-cooling components is next to non-existent, so I may have to order something from another country,which I try to avoid. And that's also the reason I hesitate about buying stuff from guys here on the forums. Shipping stuff to Greece,especially from the US, costs too much and sometimes Greek customs officials decide that exorbitant fees are in line with what one imports, so I'm kinda afraid to order anything from the US. Shipping stuff from within the EU is customs free, but it's damn expensive too. I guess the same question goes for the Classified though... Although I suspect that that would need a special water block, otherwise EVGA wouldn't offer a variant with a pre-applied water block.

Then there's the Hydro Coppers... At first I thought "Hell yeah! That's what I'm getting!". Then I looked at the price. The basic Hydro Copper (Not the Classified) 780 is on sale for about 770€ here in Greece. For that kind of money I could water cool a reference 780ti. In other countries it's not so bad,but still,they are expensive pieces of equipment. Despite all that, I'm still considering ordering one from somewhere else and paying the premium. The only counter-argument I can find if I have the money is that I don't know the resale status of these cards. I'm under the impression that water cooling gear isn't as easy to sell,especially if it's old-ish. That and the fact that I live in Greece and shipping stuff elsewhere, especially to the US (Most people who buy things from the forums are from the US), must be really expensive. That and the fact that I have never sold anything online,so I'm completely a noob to this, have scared me away from these things. A little help with that would definitely be much appreciated (PM me if you like).

Having said all that, I'm still considering building the basic water loop around the CPU (WIth the 420 up top) and then adding the GPU in it in a future upgrade. That would save me money and time now, but later I'd have to do a lot of work to mod my loop and get everything water cooled. Still,it's a viable alternative if I can' afford everything right now. Then there's always the chance I may not be able to afford a wc loop at all, but I'm trying to not think of that.

Thanks in advance guys!Any replies are much appreciated!

PS : I too think it's almost a blasphemy to own this case and leave it on air. It's like buying a Porsche only for commuting!


----------



## chrisnyc75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GhostFaceKeller*
> 
> Hi All. Im interested in this airflow and dust topic too when it comes to the Primo.
> 
> I currently have three AF120s as intakes in the bottom of the case, pulling air up and through the case, i have another as an exhaust towards the top (rear) of the cause, near the two fans connected (as intakes) to my H105 RAD. I moved all the stock phanteks 140mm fans that arrived inside the case (apart from the front LED fans) to the top section and all three act as exhausts, meaning push pull on the rad.
> 
> Unfortunatley the front cover panel clips on the case arrived broken, I'm awaiting some more front clips from Phanteks, but at the moment that area is not sealed and is open to dust.
> 
> Im wondering if I should flip the bottom fans over to be exhausts, or if that will cause negative pressure as you say Doyll.


Fwiw, in my ~6 months with the Enthoo, I've found that the optimal config is to have every fan in top, front, and bottom as INTAKE and one fan in the back as exhaust. After 6 months with very minimal maintenance (basically just cleaning the filters) there's not a spec of dust in my system and temps are right where you want them to be with a high end custom wc build.

Positive pressure, always. The more intake, the better. The air WILL find a way to exhaust through every nook and cranny; the dust won't get in.

If your front panel grill is broken, go to Home Depot or Lowe's or whatever and get a $2 air conditioner foam filter and just tape it on there as a temporary fix until you get the grille panel back.


----------



## paulyoung

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chrisnyc75*
> 
> Fwiw, in my ~6 months with the Enthoo, I've found that the optimal config is to have every fan in top, front, and bottom as INTAKE and one fan in the back as exhaust. After 6 months with very minimal maintenance (basically just cleaning the filters) there's not a spec of dust in my system and temps are right where you want them to be with a high end custom wc build.
> 
> Positive pressure, always. The more intake, the better. The air WILL find a way to exhaust through every nook and cranny; the dust won't get in.
> 
> If your front panel grill is broken, go to Home Depot or Lowe's or whatever and get a $2 air conditioner foam filter and just tape it on there as a temporary fix until you get the grille panel back.


Exactly my conclusion mate, this is the only forum where people have got the same way of thinking with the EP, they always just say heat rises so have the bottom as intake and roof as exhaust. I was getting loads of negative feedback from the other forum, up until I showed them that by doing it my / your way I actually dropped the temps by about 4 degrees. As as soon as I posted proof the thread died. All the haters asking for proof, got what they wanted, and didn't reply.

If you drop Phanteks an email they will send you some new clips for the front panel. I'm on my 2nd set now, well 3rd I'm waiting for the rev 2 clips now, there customer service is great drop the a message you'll get a reply the next, if not the same day. I've also had the fan hub, and front led strip fail, and they are also sending them on to me too.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paulyoung*
> 
> I have no idea mate, to be honest, I don't take any notice of the GPU's when running OCCT, all I can tell you is the maximum temp whilst it was running was 30 degrees, so at a guess no they didn't. I'll do another run in the AM, and get back to you on that one mate.


With the GPU adding say 300 watts to the CPUs 140, and having two of them, the GPU load is much bigger than the CPU..... OCCT's PSU test put a strain on both but it's been know to kill less than stellar PSUs ..... but unfortunately, it detects nVidia's drivers detect OCCT and throttle the card..... was wondering about what AMD does.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> I'm betting the front and bottom intake grill area, grill density are restricitng 3-40% more than back vents. Top has area but remember how much improvement you had removing the top grill?
> Sorry Jack , but I disagree about exhaust fans in the attic. Reason is they pull heated air from GPU up around CPU and motherboard components instead of exhausting it out the back.


Shoulda included what I left unsaid here given the "filters on all inlets / no filters on outlets" mantra stated in previous posts. ...... if ya using the top fans as exhaust,I shuda noted that filters shud be removed.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> 
> Using forward vent area in top for intakes moves cool air down to CPU and motherboard, than out the back Front and forward bottom intakes move cool air to GPU than out the back. .
> Back of EP has plenty of vent area and any excess will find it's way out side or back top and bottom vent area. This givs EP very good front to back airflow and supplying plenty of ambient temperature air to components.
> I find leaving the I/O cover out usually improves motherboard component temps too. Better airflow close to motherboard.


To my mind this is in question ..... conventional wisdom says air in front and bottom and air on the top and back..... I see ya point but case manufacturer's have decided to go the other way ..... buy a case with fans up top and they are always installed blowing out. I'm kinda betwixt and between on the subject

- As exhaust fans would have the filter removed, that makes them a helluva lot more effective at moving air than as intake fans up top..... like getting a extra fan based upon your % estimate.
- Three fans up top blowing in, two in front blowing in, two on side blowing in, two on bottom blowing in ..... 9 fans is a lot even for the Enthoo's generous rear grille area. 9 in vs 1 out leaves 8 x 140mm for the grilles.....
- I really wouldn't want fresh air from the front intakes going right out the bottom grille.
- The two side grilles are "spoken for" with twin fan intakes.
- If as you say air will be forced out the side panel vents, what effect will the higher interior case pressure have on the PSU intake grille functionality ? With all that air looking for an exit, the fresh air intake will will be inhibited and cooling air to the PSU at least partially replaced by pre-heated case air. Of course a foam gasket could be built to eliminate that.
-You do get a slight boost in not fighting convection, but more importantly, you have the top and bottom air velocities "resisting" each other, and creating dead zones of low velocity. This is where those fan mounts on the interior side of the HD cages come in handy. In my WC build, I have no hot / dead spots according to the Infrared thermometer but that is helped by those extra fan in 5.25" bays.
-CPU Air cooler can be oriented upward which does a good job of aiding the cooling in area around MOFSETS and VRMs
-Can put a fan in 5.25 bays and 3.5 bays (using existing mounts) to keep air stirred up around MoBo if that's a concern.
[/LIST]

In a similar vein, I argued with myself on the two side fans....Still not sure what way will work best and, but like the bigger question above, only way to know would be to run some tests.....lotta good reasons supporting either alternative.

-use them as ins....it's more load that must go out the rear....fifteen 140s in and just 1 out ?
-use them as outs .... likely short circuiting with front fans

I'm kinda chuckling at my involvement in this discussion when I haven't had the filters in or side panels on in months









Seen a dust speckle or 3 on top backplate, nothing in rads or anywhere else.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Wake up mate!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You got that backwards.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> More exhaust than intake is negative pressure and draws air (dust) in through every opening in case.


Well it was late .... duh ..... I go back and fix.....I wrote the sentence going the other way and said let me edit that and got it backwards .... obviously that contradicts everything I had said above it









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GhostFaceKeller*
> 
> Hi All. Im interested in this airflow and dust topic too when it comes to the Primo.
> 
> I currently have three AF120s as intakes in the bottom of the case, pulling air up and through the case, i have another as an exhaust towards the top (rear) of the cause, near the two fans connected (as intakes) to my H105 RAD. I moved all the stock phanteks 140mm fans that arrived inside the case (apart from the front LED fans) to the top section and all three act as exhausts, meaning push pull on the rad.
> 
> Unfortunatley the front cover panel clips on the case arrived broken, I'm awaiting some more front clips from Phanteks, but at the moment that area is not sealed and is open to dust.
> 
> Im wondering if I should flip the bottom fans over to be exhausts, or if that will cause negative pressure as you say Doyll.


OK, let's summarize and if I got this right .....

(3) 120s in at bottom
(1) 120 rear exhaust
(2) 120s intakes on rad
Net = (5) in (1) out = 4 +

(2) 240s in
(3) 140s out

Net = (2) in (3) Out = 1 -

The 4+ 120s are gonna outweigh the 1- on the 140's so you should be fine..... but the problem as I see it is where is ya H105 mounted that it has access to two fan ports ?.....
Quote:


> then in the roof of the case, I have the 105 mounted as per normal (IE with the rad fans mounted underneath it as intakes) then in the roof cavity I have the three phanteks fans acting as exhausts.


And there's my answer ....

You have two fans pulling air into the case below thr radiator and three fans above the radiator puling air in the opposite direction ???? They are fighting each other so the rad is getting very poor cooling.


----------



## ottoore

Hi guys,
enthoo primo's manual talks about a limit of 70mm thickness max for 480 top radiator.

Can i install a 80mm radiator if i don't plan to use first 5.25 bay? Or there's another physical limit?


----------



## tolis626

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ottoore*
> 
> Hi guys,
> enthoo primo's manual talks about a limit of 70mm thickness max for 480 top radiator.
> 
> Can i install a 80mm radiator if i don't plan to use first 5.25 bay? Or there's another physical limit?


That depends on your motherboard. You may or may not be able to use a monsta at the top,but it's very likely that you will run in clearance issues with the mobo heatsink, the CPU power connectors etc. If you don't already have the monsta, I'd go for something else. Probably a 420 or a 360 up top. The monsta fits nicely on the bottom.


----------



## ottoore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tolis626*
> 
> That depends on your motherboard. You may or may not be able to use a monsta at the top,but it's very likely that you will run in clearance issues with the mobo heatsink, the CPU power connectors etc. If you don't already have the monsta, I'd go for something else. Probably a 420 or a 360 up top. The monsta fits nicely on the bottom.


Thx.
So, no problem with the EP?

I am not going to buy a Monsta for the top ( probably a Xspc rx480 v3, 56mm thick+25mm fan) but i'd like to know about case limits and i needed an explanation about pdf wording


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> 
> Using forward vent area in top for intakes moves cool air down to CPU and motherboard, than out the back Front and forward bottom intakes move cool air to GPU than out the back. .
> Back of EP has plenty of vent area and any excess will find it's way out side or back top and bottom vent area. This givs EP very good front to back airflow and supplying plenty of ambient temperature air to components.
> I find leaving the I/O cover out usually improves motherboard component temps too. Better airflow close to motherboard.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To my mind this is in question ..... *conventional wisdom says air in front and bottom and air on the top and back*..... I see ya point but case manufacturer's have decided to go the other way ..... buy a case with fans up top and they are always installed blowing out. I'm kinda betwixt and between on the subject.
Click to expand...

I think "wisdom" has little if anything to do with it. It has more to do with conventional design, optical bay placement, conventional motherboard design with CPU near top, old low power demand GPUs, PSU being mounted in back top pul;ling air from inside, etc. It's what customer was buying and case builders have no desire to rock the boat too much.. until recently. Oh sure, they "designed" fancy gamer cases but that's more about the look that sells it than performance.

Now we have GPUs making 2 to 3 times as much heat as CPU, often 2 or 3 in a take making 6 to 9 times the heat CPU does. we don't what that heat going into CPU cooler.. at least I don't.







Obviously an intake in the fornt of case feeding air directly to CPU cooler would be ideal, but that isn't practical without modifications.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> - As exhaust fans would have the filter removed, that makes them a helluva lot more effective at moving air than as intake fans up top..... like getting a extra fan based upon your % estimate.
> - Three fans up top blowing in, two in front blowing in, two on side blowing in, two on bottom blowing in ..... 9 fans is a lot even for the Enthoo's generous rear grille area. 9 in vs 1 out leaves 8 x 140mm for the grilles.....
> - I really wouldn't want fresh air from the front intakes going right out the bottom grille.
> - The two side grilles are "spoken for" with twin fan intakes.
> - If as you say air will be forced out the side panel vents, what effect will the higher interior case pressure have on the PSU intake grille functionality ? With all that air looking for an exit, the fresh air intake will will be inhibited and cooling air to the PSU at least partially replaced by pre-heated case air. Of course a foam gasket could be built to eliminate that.
> -You do get a slight boost in not fighting convection, but more importantly, you have the top and bottom air velocities "resisting" each other, and creating dead zones of low velocity. This is where those fan mounts on the interior side of the HD cages come in handy. In my WC build, I have no hot / dead spots according to the Infrared thermometer but that is helped by those extra fan in 5.25" bays.
> -CPU Air cooler can be oriented upward which does a good job of aiding the cooling in area around MOFSETS and VRMs
> -Can put a fan in 5.25 bays and 3.5 bays (using existing mounts) to keep air stirred up around MoBo if that's a concern.
> [/LIST]
> 
> In a similar vein, I argued with myself on the two side fans....Still not sure what way will work best and, but like the bigger question above, only way to know would be to run some tests.....lotta good reasons supporting either alternative.
> 
> -use them as ins....it's more load that must go out the rear....fifteen 140s in and just 1 out ?
> -use them as outs .... likely short circuiting with front fans.


My suggestions above were for air cooled use, not H2O. For H20 maybe top and bottom in with front and back out might be best. )

I was not suggesting all of top, side, front and bottom be filled with intake fans.
I said
_"Using forward vent area in top for intakes moves cool air down to CPU and motherboard, than out the back Front and forward bottom intakes move cool air to GPU than out the back. . "_
That is:

1 or 2 top intakes
2 front intakes
1 or 2 bottom intakes.
As bottom is only built to accommodate 2x 140mm fans one intake fan in the front of the 2 will flow air onto GPU
Front has 2x 140mm intakes.
2x in the top middle / front area for CPU.

The combination of 5.25 bay in top and front fans tends to turn the airflow toward the back. Only area of possible "dead zone" is at middle of case / front of motherboard above GPU.. which should not be a problem.

And with so much of the back being open these F140SP fans can easily push the air to back of case. and out.


----------



## skywalker311

Hey guys, I need a little help. I need to make a fill port on my case. I have a EK 420 coolstream rad.This rad has two top ports and two bottom. I'm using the top ports for my temperature plug and the other
for the fill port. So what I wanted to know is where a good place to put the fill port. I've got a few ideas but I would like to hear from you guys and see that you done for a fill port.
I've got a quick disconnect for the bottom. So I'm good on that one. What I thought I might do was make a bracket and put it in the back side of the case. Let me know what you think.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

]
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Strider49*
> 
> Thanks for your insight!
> 
> I'm in Portugal and here I can get the MSI GD65 for about 171€ and the Hero for 179€. Not really much of a difference. When I think of Asus ROG boards, I see top of the line performance, many useful features, great components. I'm not a fan boy though, I never had a single ROG product. The advertised military components on MSI boards and VGAs are just a gimmick or are they really better than what one can find on other brands products?


Well I will give ya two more reasons ....

1. Asus has a BIOS issue at the moment that is affecting their RoG 1150 boards. BIOS settings that gave ya stable OC's under BIOS 0804, are no longer stable under 09xx, 10xx (both of which have been pulled, as well as 11xx, 12xx and 13xx. I'm hoping it gets fixed with 14xx but if ya look at the Hero Owners Club thread as wella s RoG forums many have rolled back to 0804, which unfortunately means Asus will refuse to provide tech support services unless ya load latest BIOS.

2. You get to watch this video repeatedly and wife / GF can't complain as it's educational





Quote:


> I can't seem to find those Mushkin Redlines here in Portugal. I didn't even know about the existence of that brand. Does that somewhat lower last timing number really make a big difference


Geez....kids today









Back in the day ..... Mushkin was on the tip of the tongue of every puter enthusiast and PC retailers would actually list "Mushkin Memory" in the PC ads as a selling point. Mushkin topped both Tomshardware and Anadech's most recent roundup recommendations but for the last 15 or so years Mushkin has rested on its laurels so to speak and forgone advertising and promotion figuring they didn't need it. Mushkin has been my 1st choice for almost 20 years both for performance and compatibility reasons as well as support. Back in the day, enthusiasts looked at GSkill as the "Walmart" brand as their marketing approach was "be the cheapest" but they have used their capital from the market share they gained with that approach to produce some excellent products today. But two issues I have had with Gskill (and even Corsair to a smaller extent) over the years .... is that at some point in the production run, they change module suppliers. Corsair just did this with the vengeance pro series....as lines improve, yields of higher spec memory improve and while in early production runs, they'd spend the premium to get Hynix memory, once yields on the lesser brands improved they do a swictheroo.

The other one....and this could be just luck of the draw ..... is that I have always had the best luck doing RAM upgrades with Mushkin and Corsair even when mixing brands. On Gskill, I failed 3 outta 4 times matching them with older GSills. My assumption is using same spec , same speed, same timings RAM isn't all that compatible when the RAM modules have been obtained from different module suppliers.
Quote:


> So, are you saying the Asus 780 Ti DirectCU II OC has a custom PCB and better VRM? Didn't know about that one too...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I must state I haven't made up my mind yet regarding the GPU issue, they are all so close to each other, I think. All I know is that I want the best 780 Ti for the money, having a 3 year limited warranty in my country, covering both materials and workmanship. At first, I considered the MSI Gaming (9.9 on TPU review, military class components...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ), but then I realised MSI only offers a 2 year warranty in Portugal.
> Yesterday, I saw a discount on the Lightning version of the R9 290X in a UK store and then my doubts grew even bigger. According to Guru, it can almost equal and even surpass in some instances the "basic" non-reference design 780 Ti's like the EVGA SC ACX, costing slightly less.


Yes, it does.....this has been a consistent failure with the SC series at least since the 5xx series..... I believe they are trying to shed this black mark on their resume in that the 760 used a different brand VRM so they could say "it's not reference" but it has the same number of phases and is the same size as the reference one so what's the point. Form a performance standpoint they are by no means close to one another......Below the Asus finished 1st, MSI 2nd, EVGA last

http://uk.hardware.info/reviews/4639/10/nvidia-geforce-gtx-780-asus-vs-evga-vs-inno3d-vs-msi-conclusion

As for the various differences between different models, in order of performance

780 Ti Overclocked
780 Ti
780 Overclocked
290X Overclocked
290x
780

While the 290x is faster than the 780 outta the box in 'ultra mode", it doesn't have that much headroom because it is so aggressively overclocked at the factory..... but when overclocked "to the wall" the 780 OC wins over the 290xOC ....
Quote:


> There's also new "contenders": Asus Matrix Platinum 780 Ti and R9 290X... Should I wait to see how these'll come up?


Given your air / water dilemma, I'd take a good hard look at the Asus 780 Posiedon

Yeah, I think I'll go with a top air cooler for now. In the future I may think about replacing it with a custom WC setup though, as this case really shines in that department. I even considered buying the Swiftech H320, but it's been a P.I.T.A. to find it in stock in portuguese or european stores. So, do you recommend the Phanteks PH-TC14-PE air cooler? I can get it for about 90€; the Thermalright Silver Arrow IB-E Extreme costs about 10-15€ less and it has those red or orange fans that really go up with the red tone on the Hero and the GSkills. Do you think the Phanteks is worth the extra cost? What's my the best option, performance and silence wise? My goal is trying to reach 4.4 or 4.5GHz stable, more if I am lucky.

I soured the the Arrow only because it's hard to get here and shipping costs are extreme..... so I understand your dilemma. The Phanteks is the only one I know that gives you a choice of colors. For RoG Builds, I like these:

Black http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835709011
White http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835709001
Red - newegg outat stock


Quote:


> As to the fans issue, I was thinking about passing the fan on the top to the bottom as intake and place 3 other fans on the top as exhaust, therefore equalising numbers of intake and exhaust fans. If you say that it shouldn't be needed, then I will maintain the stock fans in their places. Perhaps it is better to do some temperature tests before getting something else. If I still want to add those 3 extra fans after that, some Phanteks SP140s it will be.


I put 3 of these on the top, matching the front fan motif (LED)
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835709024

More is always better ..... my thought is one 140mm case fan for every 75 watts or so as a minimum .

1150 CPU = 140 watts OC'd = 2 fans
MoBo = 40 watts = 1/2 fan
RAM, DVD, HDs, etc = 40 watts = 1/2 fan
Hi end GPU = 300 watts OC'd = 4 fans

So I'd look at 7 fans .... 2 in front / 2 on bottom as in .... rear and 2 top as exhaust.....when ya add a 2nd GPU, I'd add two on the side panel in and 1 more on the top.to give ya +2 on intake As always do a smoke test ..... if ya have nothing else, light a match or a ciggie and hold near ya grilles and see which way air / blows the flame / smoke
Quote:


> So, should I maintain a positive pressure inside the case to be covered on the dust front? If I put all the fans as intake, as some of you say, won't the fans blow air and spread dust all over the case? My intuition says the following: place intake fans on the bottom and front, where the air is cooler, and blow out the (hot) air through the upper rear and top sites. It doesn't make much sense to me to pull cooler air into the case through the rear or top fan mounts, which will get into contact with the hotter air in that region, perhaps having some undesired effects.


Yes, positive pressure is always going to be the easiest route (case comes w/ filters on inlets).....and has other advantages with air cooling (GFX card exhaust air doesn't get sucked back in). If using top as exhaust, ya may wanna remove the fine filter on the top grille. All fans as intake means overcoming the air restriction on the filters on every fan..... having exhaust fans operating without filters means that fan's SP can help overcome the resistance of the filter on a corresponding intake fan. And yes, your logic is "textbook" and why most case manufacturer's build their cases that way at the factory. But remember two intakes and two exhaust is not equal. So while the intake fans w/o exhaust fans may have their flow significantly inhibited by inlet filters, the exhaust fans do help in overcoming it.
Quote:


> Please correct me if I'm wrong.


That's ya wife's job









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tolis626*
> 
> Now,I'm thinking of going full out and having dual rads,so a 420 at the top (That's a done deal) . About the bootom....I still don't know.I was thinking 360 or 480,but that way I would lose the drive cages (Not that I care all that much but just sayin') and I would spend a crapload of money on fans.Normally,someone who is willing to spend big on a wc rig shouldn't care if they pay for a couple more fans,but I'm on a tight-ish budget (Meaning there will be just enough money for everything), So I came to consider using a 280 with Phanteks' excellent fans. Yeah,it doesn't look as good but I'll live with that I think.Thing is,is it worth it to go at least 360,if not 480? I suppose I'm already deep within the overkill zone with a 420 and a 280 for the CPU and a single GPU,but I do it for the looks as much as I do it for the performance,although I may be getting a secod GPU down the line.
> 
> A 420 + 280 will cool a 4770k @ 4.6 GHz and twin 780s w/ 25% OC with a Delta T of 8.4C with fans at 1200 rpm, filters removed.....at 850 rpm max, I have hit 12.8 C with filters in and that's under torture test stress testing. Personally I like the look and it allows for a optimum pump setup with the pump under the top HD cage.
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> My other options are :
> 
> - A reference PCB model like the EVGA (For the warranty) for 440€
> - A cheaper custom PCB model like the Asus DCUII for 450€
> - Asus' Poseidon for 570€
> - EVGA's Hydro Copper Classified for...too much to matter at this point
> 
> 
> 
> The DCII is the top factory OCd card aside from the Lightning and Classified. The Hydrocopper has extremely poor cooling.
> 
> http://uk.hardware.info/reviews/4639/10/nvidia-geforce-gtx-780-asus-vs-evga-vs-inno3d-vs-msi-conclusion
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> The card that impressed us the most, however, was the ASUS GTX780-DC2OC-3GD5. The new cooler works like charm, and its performance is clearly reflected by the test results. The card also manages to stay very quiet and offers the best overclocking potential thanks to the new cooler. ASUS earns the Gold Award for its card...... The EVGA ACX Superclocked also isn't a bad card. The only problem is that about the same amount of money will net you the ASUS card, a card which is superior in terms of cooling, noise and overclocking potential.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Normally, for 570€ I would go for the Poseidon and be done with it. It would save me money from not buying a water block and backplate,time from not having to replace anything with anything and I wouldn't void my warranty while replacing the stock cooler (Although I think EVGA honors their warranty even if the card has been tampered with). But Asus being Asus,they decided to use aluminum in the GPU block and they also leave the VRMs air-cooled. I'm not so concerned about the VRMs, as the Asus cooler does a decent job of cooling them,but having aluminum in my build,especially after reading all the horror stories posted online, pushes me away from the Poseidon. I know some say that anodized aluminum is fine, and I agree with them (I'm looking at you Jack!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ), but I don't know whether I can trust Asus with that. Why they didn't go with a copper block is beyond me...
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 1. Copper is more expensive
> 2. Most GPU blocks are nickel plated copper for aesthetic purposes.
> 3. Copper is heavier ..... dunno if ya ever looked at my pic in siggie but I needed a post to hold up the right end of my GFX cards to keep them from sagging and dragging on my acrylic tubes.
> 4. The block is covered by the warranty so if it fails ....
> 
> I have never had issue with Asus and warranty.... on the enthusiasts MoBos the warranty provides for them shipping you a replacement BEFORE you send back the broken one.
> 
> If I decide to go for something like the DCUII (Although I'm hesitant of going with Asus because of complaints about their warranties), do I need a special water block because of the custom PCB design or can I use any block for the 780? The reason I'm asking is.....
> 
> It's a custom block and in the Enthoo you want the short one (Note many factory OC'd cards like the Classy and Lightning will not fit in the Enthoo with the reservoir bracket in place). This one fits the Asus DCII and fits in the Enthoo with res bracket in place
> 
> GPU Water Block - EK ASUS GeForce 780 GTX DCII VGA Liquid Cooling Block - Nickel (EK-FC780 GTX DCII - Nickel)
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/21270/ex-blc-1529/EK_ASUS_GeForce_780_GTX_DCII_VGA_Liquid_Cooling_Block_-_Nickel_EK-FC780_GTX_DCII_-_Nickel.html?tl=c613s1928b133
> 
> GPU Water Block Backplate - EK ASUS GeForce 780 GTX DCII VGA Liquid Cooling RAM Backplate - Black CSQ (EK-FC780 GTX DCII Backplate - Black)
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/21273/ex-blc-1532/EK_ASUS_GeForce_780_GTX_DCII_VGA_Liquid_Cooling_RAM_Backplate_-_Black_CSQ_EK-FC780_GTX_DCII_Backplate_-_Black.html?tl=c613s1928b133
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Then there's the Hydro Coppers... At first I thought "Hell yeah! That's what I'm getting!". Then I looked at the price. The basic Hydro Copper (Not the Classified) 780 is on sale for about 770€ here in Greece. For that kind of money I could water cool a reference 780ti. In other countries it's not so bad,but still,they are expensive pieces of equipment. Despite all that, I'm still considering ordering one .....
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Check the xtremerigs review on youtube for the Titan / 780 blocks .... th EVGA / EK block did very poorly in the tests
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *chrisnyc75*
> 
> If your front panel grill is broken, go to Home Depot or Lowe's or whatever and get a $2 air conditioner foam filter and just tape it on there as a temporary fix until you get the grille panel back.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Or steal and cut up pair of wifie's pantyhose
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *paulyoung*
> 
> Exactly my conclusion mate, this is the only forum where people have got the same way of thinking with the EP, they always just say heat rises so have the bottom as intake and roof as exhaust. I was getting loads of negative feedback from the other forum, up until I showed them that by doing it my / your way I actually dropped the temps by about 4 degrees. As as soon as I posted proof the thread died. All the haters asking for proof, got what they wanted, and didn't reply.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> You will find threads here making the same argument .... my guess is that they see all the published articles talking about front and bottom in, rear and top out and every case manufacturer shipping cases this way that it doesn't register that the concept doesn't account for the dynamics of water cooling.....
> 
> For some reason, the 22C in thru the rad is better than 27C thru the rad doesn't sway the thought.
> 
> same with the positive pressure article.... the focus on the positive pressure and it fails to register that positive pressure works if when all inlets are filtered.
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ottoore*
> 
> Hi guys,
> enthoo primo's manual talks about a limit of 70mm thickness max for 480 top radiator.
> 
> Can i install a 80mm radiator if i don't plan to use first 5.25 bay? Or there's another physical limit?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Yes, your MoBo..... checked what might be blocked via visual or physical access .... just a few paged pack, someone showed a Monsta in there.....just missed his RAM. But in my case, it blocked access to the MPCIE thingie, made access to the MoBo WB difficult blocked the voltage monitoring access points, blocked the EPS cable access and blocked vidial access tot he LCD diagnostic panel. You may or may not care about those things but best to make a knowledgeable decision before the bron truck brings it to ya door.
Click to expand...


----------



## paulyoung

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ottoore*
> 
> Hi guys,
> enthoo primo's manual talks about a limit of 70mm thickness max for 480 top radiator.
> 
> Can i install a 80mm radiator if i don't plan to use first 5.25 bay? Or there's another physical limit?


Like mentioned it depends on your mortherboards heatsinks, and your ram. I use an MSI Z87 MPower, and Avexir core ram and with my 420 Monsta I've got about 1.5mm clearence. But don't be fooled the Monsta rads are 86 thick and not 80.


----------



## rpjkw11

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paulyoung*
> 
> Exactly my conclusion mate, this is the only forum where people have got the same way of thinking with the EP, they always just say heat rises so have the bottom as intake and roof as exhaust. I was getting loads of negative feedback from the other forum, up until I showed them that by doing it my / your way I actually dropped the temps by about 4 degrees. As as soon as I posted proof the thread died. All the haters asking for proof, got what they wanted, and didn't reply.
> 
> If you drop Phanteks an email they will send you some new clips for the front panel. I'm on my 2nd set now, well 3rd I'm waiting for the rev 2 clips now, there customer service is great drop the a message you'll get a reply the next, if not the same day. I've also had the fan hub, and front led strip fail, and they are also sending them on to me too.


That makes a lot of sense so I think I'll try it. I'm using air for CPU cooling, so the benchmarks will be interesting.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ottoore*
> 
> Hi guys,
> enthoo primo's manual talks about a limit of 70mm thickness max for 480 top radiator.
> 
> Can i install a 80mm radiator if i don't plan to use first 5.25 bay? Or there's another physical limit?


There is 70mm from the top of the mobo to the top of the case, but there is also 54mm of offset for a 120mm-series rad (240, 360, 480) or 44mm of offset for a 140mm-series rad (280, 420) where the mobo sits that much farther back from the rad, so as long as you don't have anything (ram, heatsinks, etc) taller than the offset at the top of the mobo and you don't mind the extra trouble of installing the mobo and ram, and CPU power cable(s), etc before installing the rad, and possibly having to remove the rad first to get to those things if need be, then it is definitely possible that a radiator thicker than 70mm can fit up top, with push-pull fans on it even, as it will just overhang the top of the mobo.

Just look at Paul Young's build. He was able to fit a 420 Monsta rad up top in the case.

Here's a diagram illustrating the clearance for a 120mm-series (240, 360, 480) radiator in the top of the Enthoo Primo


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> I think "wisdom" has little if anything to do with it. It has more to do with conventional design, optical bay placement, conventional motherboard design with CPU near top, old low power demand GPUs, PSU being mounted in back top pulling air from inside, etc. It's what customer was buying and case builders have no desire to rock the boat too much.. until recently. Oh sure, they "designed" fancy gamer cases but that's more about the look that sells it than performance.
> 
> Now we have GPUs making 2 to 3 times as much heat as CPU, often 2 or 3 in a take making 6 to 9 times the heat CPU does. we don't what that heat going into CPU cooler.. at least I don't.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Obviously an intake in the fornt of case feeding air directly to CPU cooler would be ideal, but that isn't practical without modifications.
> My suggestions above were for air cooled use, not H2O. For H20 maybe top and bottom in with front and back out might be best. )


I agreed the first time that all are valid points but again, there are competing factors..... which set of factors wins will depend on case specifics..... my thinking is however, if your postulation were an absolute given, that at least one case manufacturer would have tried to distinguish itself with such a design by now. Look at all the independent thought that Phanteks put into this design, seems to me this thought would have occurred to them, and if borne out, would have been another way to distinguish themselves.
Quote:


> I was not suggesting all of top, side, front and bottom be filled with intake fans.


I missing something .... the list says:

1 or 2 _top_ intakes
2 _front_ intakes
1 or 2 _bottom_ intakes.

Ok so there's intakes in the top, front and bottom..... if ya not gonna short circuit, what's left ? The side panel bottom is not going to be very effective for exhausting hot air .... it's presence even possibly detracts from case cooling as with6 fans blowing in, the path of least resistance is fresh air from the front intakes going right out 3" away.
Quote:


> The combination of 5.25 bay in top and front fans tends to turn the airflow toward the back. Only area of possible "dead zone" is at middle of case / front of motherboard above GPU.. which should not be a problem.


That's where I think Phantek's missed one..... at least as per the Silverstone article.... the front 5.25 area provides a nice location for an exhaust fan tho, many people won't want the sound an heat being exhausted in their faces. A grille in that front door still wuda been welcome. But again, mush shorter path from front to side panel, especially with those HD bays in there deflecting air to the sides.

Again, all your points are valid points ..... but there's valid points in both directions and only detailed testing will show definitively which set "wins" in the end and even that will be case, configuration and installation specific. A floor installation under a desk has different restraints than a desk cubby which is in turn different from an open desktop....what works well in one might not carry over to the others.

But all in all, being geeks, I feel we give a lot more credence to these various mantras we go buy then we if called upon we can adequately justify....

-$2300 in Water Cooling parts netted me 0.1 GHz on my CPU, .... not exactly a winner in the ROI department
-I have extremely low GPU temps but get the same "stable" OCs as under air
-I have spent hours on tweaking fan curves for no real observable gain......fans are inaudible at 850 rpm so why bother turning them down ?

But I had loads of fun and personal satisfaction doing it so was the expense worth it, hell yeah ..... A 0.1 second difference in a race means thousands of dollars in winnings and endorsements to a competitive race driver.....but to do car enthusiasts benefit in any way from tweaking their cars ? No, not at all, .... no one gets a bonus for getting to work 4 seconds earlier. ..... but like them I did get a lot of pleasure and personal satisfaction of figuring things out.

..... and we also tend to long hold onto "wisdom" from past years and hold it as gospel long after the data behind it is relevant.

-Temps won't vary more than 0.5C in a loop....they do, I have managed 3+C
-SP is extremely important on rads .... can be, but not with 9-12 fpi and low rpm fans
-Positive pressure is essential to keep dust out, it's very helpful but having bust positive pressure without inlet fan filters is meaningless.
-The presence of aluminum in a loop will corrode copper.... scientifically impossible.

So like you said, long held "wisdom" should always be questioned and revisited over time.....At this point, from a theoretical standpoint, I'd say it's hardly a difference between back versus back + top in air cooling on large cases like the Enthoo..... On small cases I gotta go with back and top, on large cases, I'm not so sure but I'm still leaning towards back and top but if I'm right or wrong, I doubt it's by any margin of significance . I base my a lot of my thought process on building and confined space ventilation studies and practices where ya can get in and conduct detailed measurements .... bit harder to do when the confined space is 1/20th the size but the theory should hold.

And the result can easily flip flop via influences we don't immediately recognize. Your air restriction at the case bottom is a perfect example, it greatly affected your 480 installation whereas in my build it had little effect. While we were both similarly affected by the small inlet area, my inflow was augmented by having air intake thru the case floor thru the large open vents between the 280 and the front fans. The disadvantage was offset and rendered to a "no impact" because conditions changed.

If someone looked at my test and said .... the impact of the reduced inlet area is negligible at worse, they'd be correct.
If someone looked at your test and said .... the impact of the reduced inlet area is huge and the only remedy is ..... , they'd be correct.

The problem only arises when the reader looks at the conclusion and tries to apply the conclusion across the board, without recognizing the conditions that you are bound to run into some surprises. A perfect example of why there are no absolutes and why we have to look at the reasoning behind the mantra, not take it as gospel and make sure that it is relevant to all situations we apply it to.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skywalker311*
> 
> Hey guys, I need a little help. I need to make a fill port on my case. I have a EK 420 coolstream rad.This rad has two top ports and two bottom. I'm using the top ports for my temperature plug and the other
> for the fill port. So what I wanted to know is where a good place to put the fill port. I've got a few ideas but I would like to hear from you guys and see that you done for a fill port.
> I've got a quick disconnect for the bottom. So I'm good on that one. What I thought I might do was make a bracket and put it in the back side of the case. Let me know what you think.


The Alphacool's have 7 ports .... 2 top / 2 side 2 bottom and 1 opposite side. I have the 2 bottoms with the in and out tubes, two sides with temp sensors and 2 tops as fill and bleed ports. I don't quite get ya statement

"I'm using the top ports for my temperature plug and the other for the _fill port_. So what I wanted to know is where a good place to put the _fill port_."

Did you perhaps mean one of them was a "bleed port" ?

If ya Rad has the opposite side port, as in the Alpha's 7th port, that can serve as a fill port.... I designed a bracket as a backup to the original plan and can send ya the CAD files if that's ya plan.

But if not, how about a Tee on the bottom port9s) and put the temp sensor on the branch of the Tee ? That would free up the other port.


----------



## simsim44

Ya know Jack.... I do love your insight .... I did, however, find the need move the dictionary closer to my desk as I am tired of getting up to check new words. LOL

Pos-tu-late

verb (used with object), pos·tu·lat·ed, pos·tu·lat·ing.


----------



## skywalker311

I have a EK 420 rad and a XSPC 240 rad and not a alphacool rad and I'm making a fill port for my loop.


----------



## xCloudyHorizon

This wait for pre-orders on the white Primo is killing me. Between new PSU's being released, SSD's going on sale, and watercooling parts it's getting super difficult to hold out for it.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by JackNaylorPE
> my thinking is however, if your postulation were an absolute given, that at least one case manufacturer would have tried to distinguish itself with such a design by now.


We are not speaking in absolutes. We are speaking in generalities. [/quote]

Several cases have done different airflow patterns.
Lian Li PC-A05, PC-A05N, PC-05FN (balck to front)
Silverstone RV01, RV02-E, RV03, TJ11FT02 (bottom to top) Think they own the patent on 90 degree.
Silverstone RV04 (front to back)
Quote:


> Originally Posted by JackNaylorPE
> I missing something .... the list says:
> 
> 1 or 2 top intakes
> 2 front intakes
> 1 or 2 bottom intakes.
> 
> Ok so there's intakes in the top, front and bottom..... if ya not gonna short circuit, what's left ? The side panel bottom is not going to be very effective for exhausting hot air .... it's presence even possibly detracts from case cooling as with6 fans blowing in, the path of least resistance is fresh air from the front intakes going right out 3" away.


Well now you've lost me. PWM hub will handle up to 11 fans and we are only taking 5. ??
Sidee vent is there regardless.. and only vents from one side of intake fans...or block it off... yet front intakes seem to work with stock setup... and I'm only suggesting moving 2 fans from exhaust to intake. Back is full of holes.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by JackNaylorPE
> The problem only arises when the reader looks at the conclusion and tries to apply the conclusion across the board, without recognizing the conditions that you are bound to run into some surprises. A perfect example of why there are no absolutes and why we have to look at the reasoning behind the mantra, not take it as gospel and make sure that it is relevant to all situations we apply it to.


Indeed.
Every system is different, and airflow can be effected by very little change. A single cable or HDD configuration can cause air to flow differently.

Setting up efficient case airflow is probably the hardest part of a build.. and the most neglected in many cases.. too may cases.

Although I am seeing more and more builders asking questions and improving their airflow.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *simsim44*
> 
> Ya know Jack.... I do love your insight .... I did, however, find the need move the dictionary closer to my desk as I am tired of getting up to check new words. LOL
> 
> Pos-tu-late
> 
> verb (used with object), pos·tu·lat·ed, pos·tu·lat·ing.


I drive all sides crazy when Y say "Well if ya postulate" .... grammar nazi's (and before anyone gets offended, used here as analogy to soup nazi as opposed to the Charlie Chaplin looking guy) hate the "ya" .... other say "why didn't ya just say assume ?







I do love the back and forth with doyll tho.....he always makes me think about things from all sides.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> We are not speaking in absolutes. We are speaking in generalities.


Understood.... what I am saying is ..... in general, I don't see any case manufacturers going against convection in air cooled designs.

Quote:


> Well now you've lost me. PWM hub will handle up to 11 fans and we are only taking 5. ??


I'm not sure how the PWM hub entered into the equation. Can have 5 fans or 11 fans and not use the hub...... CPU 1 and 2, OPT 1 thru 3, CHA 1 thru 3 is 8 channels, each of which can handle multiple fans....I thot we had 8 ..... 2 fronts, 3 bottom and 3 top when we started.

Quote:


> Side vent is there regardless.. and only vents from one side of intake fans...or block it off... yet front intakes seem to work with stock setup... and I'm only suggesting moving 2 fans from exhaust to intake.


But dont ya think if left as is, air will short circuit from front with air 8 fans blowing in ? Yes, an astute veteran case geek would think ti gasket the PSU intake and block the side vent but to most that would be an .... (here's one for simsim) .....ANATHEMA .... and yes, I hadda look up the correct spelling








Quote:


> Setting up efficient case airflow is probably the hardest part of a build.. and the most neglected in many cases.. too may cases.... Although I am seeing more and more builders asking questions and improving their airflow.


What surprises me is that after all the back and forth as we obsess about these things, few ever actually test their conclusions against the finished product. How often have ya seen "loop temps" don't vary by more than 0.5C " ? How many have repeated this without ever testing it ? I

Here we are talking about dust and I haven't bothered to put my side panels on and case filters back since we both did that filter restriction testing (no dust accumulation if ya wondering).

Here I spent dozens of hours tweaking fan curves and trying to decide best way to control rad fans (water tempos, GPU temps, CPU temps, combination thereof..... and the reality is from a geek perspective i did find some real "interesting data" but from a user experience perspective, there's no impact at all from running at 850 rpm..... handles all temps thrown at it, and make no noise. So it coukld be argued "what's the point"..... to me, I had fun is the only relevant answer.


----------



## ottoore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> There is 70mm from the top of the mobo to the top of the case, but there is also 54mm of offset for a 120mm-series rad (240, 360, 480) or 44mm of offset for a 140mm-series rad (280, 420) where the mobo sits that much farther back from the rad, so as long as you don't have anything (ram, heatsinks, etc) taller than the offset at the top of the mobo and you don't mind the extra trouble of installing the mobo and ram, and CPU power cable(s), etc before installing the rad, and possibly having to remove the rad first to get to those things if need be, then it is definitely possible that a radiator thicker than 70mm can fit up top, with push-pull fans on it even, as it will just overhang the top of the mobo.
> 
> Just look at Paul Young's build. He was able to fit a 420 Monsta rad up top in the case.
> 
> Here's a diagram illustrating the clearance for a 120mm-series (240, 360, 480) radiator in the top of the Enthoo Primo


Thank you.
The manual doesn't explain the problem. I misunderstood what it says: i believe thickness problem was only for 420 and 480 rads ( i mean compatibility problems with 5.25 bay) but , indeed, it's a problem of all radiators in the top.

I'll buy rx480v3 (56+25+81mm) so i do not cover ram slots.

Bye


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by JackNaylorPE
> what I am saying is ..... in general, I don't see any case manufacturers going against convection in air cooled designs.


As I said, Silverstone has teh patent on 90 degree mobo design so of course others are not building cases with this design. . . and I did list a number of cases that are NOT bottom front to top back airflow.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by JackNaylorPE
> I'm not sure how the PWM hub entered into the equation.


You keep saying short circuit,
Definition"
Quote:


> "A short circuit (sometimes abbreviated to short or s/c) is an electrical circuit that allows a current to travel along an unintended path, often where essentially no (or a very low) electrical impedance is encountered. The electrical opposite of a short circuit is an "open circuit", which is an infinite resistance between two nodes. It is common to misuse "short circuit" to describe any electrical malfunction, regardless of the actual problem."










Quote:


> Originally Posted by JackNaylorPE
> But dont ya think if left as is, air will short circuit from front with air 8 fans blowing in ?


There it is again!
















Dust is relative to environment. Your's is probably rather low dust.









Airflow is not near as critical with water cooling as it is with air cooling. Funny, but I'm experienced users coming back to air from H2O.. seems they have decided it's not worth the cost and spending similar time optimizing a good air system give more than enough cooling.









I would love to have a cooling system like your. Not so much for how cool components run but for how cool it looks.


----------



## xCloudyHorizon

I'm not quite sure how much of an indication it is, but Overclockers have the ETA date at the 28th of this March. I'm hoping that means pre-orders are coming soon.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xCloudyHorizon*
> 
> I'm not quite sure how much of an indication it is, but Overclockers have the ETA date at the 28th of this March. I'm hoping that means pre-orders are coming soon.


Yeah, I wouldn't put too much trust into that site's ETA dates. A month ago Doyll posted they had it at Mar 5 ...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Can pre-order in UK for 5 March 2014 ETA
> http://www.overclockers.co.uk/showproduct.php?prodid=CA-001-PT


... to which I had this to point out ...
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Yeah, overclockers.uk also let people pre-order Asus RIVBE boards for an ETA date that was more than two months before it actually was released. So did other sites like NZXT, and they kept moving back the availability dates over and over. Oh man were people ever upset about it (especially NZXT which charged people's cards immediately after placing the order - same thing Phanteks did last year when you pre-ordered the Enthoo Primo from them before it got delayed even further. No idea if overclockers.uk is like that). Similar happened with the Lamptron CW611 release. Site's LUV taking your money early but too often when they do they seem to just make up the ETA dates.
> 
> It may well be that they are made available around then, or it may not, but I'd take any site's pre-order availability dates with a grain of salt unless/until you get some form of confirmation that comes from Phanteks, and even then I would almost expect there to be some delay beyond that.


----------



## Ouro

Anyone flip the motherboard tray in their case yet? Would it be hard to do in the Primo? I'd like to do it mostly to put those sweet Aquacomputer Kryographics blocks for 290s.


----------



## bond32

Been a while since I've posted here. Any rate here's a picture of my current rig. Went UV









Sent from my SM-N900P using Tapatalk


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ouro*
> 
> Anyone flip the motherboard tray in their case yet? Would it be hard to do in the Primo? I'd like to do it mostly to put those sweet Aquacomputer Kryographics blocks for 290s.


The subject has been brought up here before. I said then and now that I don't think it's even a possibility to do, because to flip the mobo tray means it will face the right side panel, and you would have to deal with things like the PSU shroud and the panel with the Enthoo Primo plate which you can't just flip. Just look at the design. It's not at all a symmetrical box-like case like a Switch 810 or other cases where an inverted mobo mod can be easy-peasy. I believe the Enthoo Primo would probably be one of the hardest if not the hardest case ever made, to be able to mod to invert the mobo. I seriously doubt it will ever be done by anyone unless you just flip the entire case upside down. Put some feet on what used to be the top and call it done.


----------



## tolis626

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> Been a while since I've posted here. Any rate here's a picture of my current rig. Went UV
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my SM-N900P using Tapatalk


That's quite a nice build you got there,similar to what I have in mind. May I ask what tubing you're using?


----------



## bond32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tolis626*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> Been a while since I've posted here. Any rate here's a picture of my current rig. Went UV
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my SM-N900P using Tapatalk
> 
> 
> 
> That's quite a nice build you got there,similar to what I have in mind. May I ask what tubing you're using?
Click to expand...

That tubing is actually the XSPC UV red/orange that came with my XSPC kit when I bought it a long time ago. It's 1/2 ID 3/4 OD. Advantage to it is that with the black lights off it looks red - my original build was red themed.

Sent from my SM-N900P using Tapatalk


----------



## tolis626

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> That tubing is actually the XSPC UV red/orange that came with my XSPC kit when I bought it a long time ago. It's 1/2 ID 3/4 OD. Advantage to it is that with the black lights off it looks red - my original build was red themed.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N900P using Tapatalk


Sweet, that's what I'm looking for. Just like with chrisnyc75's build, I like the fact that under UV the red tubing looks orange instead of pink. I've seen some Primochill red tubing that turns a rather bright pink with UV and it's ooogly. The orange looks really cool and the contrast with the otherwise blue lighting is quite nice. Chris suggested Masterkleer and you said that XSPC behaves the same, so there are alternatives for what I want in case one isn't available.

Thanks dude!


----------



## GhostFaceKeller

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chrisnyc75*
> 
> Fwiw, in my ~6 months with the Enthoo, I've found that the optimal config is to have every fan in top, front, and bottom as INTAKE and one fan in the back as exhaust. After 6 months with very minimal maintenance (basically just cleaning the filters) there's not a spec of dust in my system and temps are right where you want them to be with a high end custom wc build.
> 
> Positive pressure, always. The more intake, the better. The air WILL find a way to exhaust through every nook and cranny; the dust won't get in.
> 
> If your front panel grill is broken, go to Home Depot or Lowe's or whatever and get a $2 air conditioner foam filter and just tape it on there as a temporary fix until you get the grille panel back.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paulyoung*
> 
> Exactly my conclusion mate, this is the only forum where people have got the same way of thinking with the EP, they always just say heat rises so have the bottom as intake and roof as exhaust. I was getting loads of negative feedback from the other forum, up until I showed them that by doing it my / your way I actually dropped the temps by about 4 degrees. As as soon as I posted proof the thread died. All the haters asking for proof, got what they wanted, and didn't reply.
> 
> If you drop Phanteks an email they will send you some new clips for the front panel. I'm on my 2nd set now, well 3rd I'm waiting for the rev 2 clips now, there customer service is great drop the a message you'll get a reply the next, if not the same day. I've also had the fan hub, and front led strip fail, and they are also sending them on to me too.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> With the GPU adding say 300 watts to the CPUs 140, and having two of them, the GPU load is much bigger than the CPU..... OCCT's PSU test put a strain on both but it's been know to kill less than stellar PSUs ..... but unfortunately, it detects nVidia's drivers detect OCCT and throttle the card..... was wondering about what AMD does.
> Shoulda included what I left unsaid here given the "filters on all inlets / no filters on outlets" mantra stated in previous posts. ...... if ya using the top fans as exhaust,I shuda noted that filters shud be removed.
> To my mind this is in question ..... conventional wisdom says air in front and bottom and air on the top and back..... I see ya point but case manufacturer's have decided to go the other way ..... buy a case with fans up top and they are always installed blowing out. I'm kinda betwixt and between on the subject
> 
> - As exhaust fans would have the filter removed, that makes them a helluva lot more effective at moving air than as intake fans up top..... like getting a extra fan based upon your % estimate.
> - Three fans up top blowing in, two in front blowing in, two on side blowing in, two on bottom blowing in ..... 9 fans is a lot even for the Enthoo's generous rear grille area. 9 in vs 1 out leaves 8 x 140mm for the grilles.....
> - I really wouldn't want fresh air from the front intakes going right out the bottom grille.
> - The two side grilles are "spoken for" with twin fan intakes.
> - If as you say air will be forced out the side panel vents, what effect will the higher interior case pressure have on the PSU intake grille functionality ? With all that air looking for an exit, the fresh air intake will will be inhibited and cooling air to the PSU at least partially replaced by pre-heated case air. Of course a foam gasket could be built to eliminate that.
> -You do get a slight boost in not fighting convection, but more importantly, you have the top and bottom air velocities "resisting" each other, and creating dead zones of low velocity. This is where those fan mounts on the interior side of the HD cages come in handy. In my WC build, I have no hot / dead spots according to the Infrared thermometer but that is helped by those extra fan in 5.25" bays.
> -CPU Air cooler can be oriented upward which does a good job of aiding the cooling in area around MOFSETS and VRMs
> -Can put a fan in 5.25 bays and 3.5 bays (using existing mounts) to keep air stirred up around MoBo if that's a concern.
> [/LIST]
> 
> In a similar vein, I argued with myself on the two side fans....Still not sure what way will work best and, but like the bigger question above, only way to know would be to run some tests.....lotta good reasons supporting either alternative.
> 
> -use them as ins....it's more load that must go out the rear....fifteen 140s in and just 1 out ?
> -use them as outs .... likely short circuiting with front fans
> 
> I'm kinda chuckling at my involvement in this discussion when I haven't had the filters in or side panels on in months
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Seen a dust speckle or 3 on top backplate, nothing in rads or anywhere else.
> Well it was late .... duh ..... I go back and fix.....I wrote the sentence going the other way and said let me edit that and got it backwards .... obviously that contradicts everything I had said above it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> OK, let's summarize and if I got this right .....
> 
> (3) 120s in at bottom
> (1) 120 rear exhaust
> (2) 120s intakes on rad
> Net = (5) in (1) out = 4 +
> 
> (2) 240s in
> (3) 140s out
> 
> Net = (2) in (3) Out = 1 -
> 
> The 4+ 120s are gonna outweigh the 1- on the 140's so you should be fine..... but the problem as I see it is where is ya H105 mounted that it has access to two fan ports ?.....
> And there's my answer ....
> 
> You have two fans pulling air into the case below thr radiator and three fans above the radiator puling air in the opposite direction ???? They are fighting each other so the rad is getting very poor cooling.


Big thanks to everyone who helped me on this topic. I'll set my fans to all intake tonight (with 1 exhaust). Doyll, the fans mounted to the bottom of the rad, (inside the case), are pushing air from inside the case into the RAD (i obviously didn't explain this well). the fans on top are currently pulling the air through and out the top filter - standard push/pull.

If i turn the top fans to intakes, then I would have fans blowing air into the rad from BOTH sides. Not sure that is a good idea?

Thanks.

PS I am still awaiting the front clips from Phanteks, so will look into the temporary dust filter option in the meantime.


----------



## JayBeeCee

Hi Guy's,

i have some questions belonging a water cooling build for my primo. I hope you can give me a feedback for my build.

I want to use a 480 push/pull in the bottom, and either a 420 UT45 (push/pull) or a 420 UT60 (pull from top) in top. I think I read that a 420 UT60 push/pull won't fit?!
Furthermore I want to use a 140 UT30 in the back of the case. The question for me is: does a 420 in top and a 140 in the back fit next to each other? Could there be a problem with tubing because they are to close? And I dont have a clue of tubing yet, I think I gonna take a 16/13 PVC tube...

The ordner of components shall be following:
Pump(DDC 1T / next to PSU) -> 480 Rad (in bottom) -> Graphics Card -> 140 Rad ( in back) -> 420 Rad (top) -> CPU -> Res (5 1/4 Bay res) -> Pump

Do you see any problems with this build? Please let me know if there are any improvements, its gonna be my first water cooling build!

JBC


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skywalker311*
> 
> I have a EK 420 rad and a XSPC 240 rad and not a alphacool rad and I'm making a fill port for my loop.


Yes. I knew that. I am not familiar with the ports on the EK so was offering this up for comparison since it was one I was familiar with.

You wrote:

"I'm using the top ports for my temperature plug _and the other for the fill port_. So what I wanted to know is _where a good place to put the fill port._"

So here's what you described:

Temp Probe - Fill Port *
_______________________
|
|
|---- Radiator
|
|
_______________________

Flow Out - Flow In

* When ya said "So what I wanted to know is where a good place to put the fill port.....I couldn't make sense of that as the previous statement said ya had temp and fill ports on top and thought ya might be looking for a bleed port.

So what I recommended was doing is this:

Bleed Port - Fill Port *
_______________________
|
|
|---- Radiator
|
|
_______________________

Flow Out - Tee - Temp probe on Tee Branch
- - - - - - - Flow In on Bottom of Tee

Ya connect the Tee between the Rad In (or Out) and the Rad ..... on the branch or side of the Tee ya out ya sensor.

That will work on the EK or any other rad with 4 ports as you described.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GhostFaceKeller*
> 
> If i turn the top fans to intakes, then I would have fans blowing air into the rad from BOTH sides. Not sure that is a good idea?


It is ....

Top Rad fans blowing on (down)
Bottom rad fans blowing in (up)

Will provide the lowest coolant Temperature.

-Two front fans blowing in, rear fan blowing out will help evacuate case air.
-Can add a fan in 5.25 bays if ya like in 3 of the slots tho w/ door closed doesn't d much.
-Can add side fans on left panel....I'm not quite sure how I like these as blowing out will result in short circuiting from intake fans....blowing in would make it 15 in and 1 out.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JayBeeCee*
> 
> Hi Guy's,
> 
> i have some questions belonging a water cooling build for my primo. I hope you can give me a feedback for my build.
> 
> I want to use a 480 push/pull in the bottom, and either a 420 UT45 (push/pull) or a 420 UT60 (pull from top) in top. I think I read that a 420 UT60 push/pull won't fit?!
> Furthermore I want to use a 140 UT30 in the back of the case. The question for me is: does a 420 in top and a 140 in the back fit next to each other? Could there be a problem with tubing because they are to close? And I dont have a clue of tubing yet, I think I gonna take a 16/13 PVC tube...
> 
> The ordner of components shall be following:
> Pump(DDC 1T / next to PSU) -> 480 Rad (in bottom) -> Graphics Card -> 140 Rad ( in back) -> 420 Rad (top) -> CPU -> Res (5 1/4 Bay res) -> Pump
> 
> Do you see any problems with this build? Please let me know if there are any improvements, its gonna be my first water cooling build!


It will fit in the case..... check your MoBo layout to see if it will hamper you in any way that you find inconvenient. First off be aware that the difference in cooling between a XT45-420 (250 watts) and a UT60-420 (256 watts) is a mere 6 watts at 1250 rpm. So measure the cooling gain of the 6 watts against any inconveniences. I Jesse's build (modzoo.com), the 60mm rad cleared the MoBo Heat Sink but he had an issue with the EPS cable clearance with the UT60. I had issues with physical access to MCPIE Combo thingie (MiniSSD, Bluetooth, Wireless), voltage reading points, 8 pin EPS cable, MoBo block tube connection, MemOK LED, START button.....Of course, I could get at them of I removed the bottom fans but didn't think the inconvenience was worth 6 watts. It also would have prevented the installation of a fan controller in the top drive bay where i originally had it.....tho I liked it there better visually, I moved it to the 4th bay so I could readily access and change inputs thru the above slots. Finally my MoBo has a diagnostic LED panel which list Q-codes (fault diagnosis) .... with the 60mm in push / pull I couldn't see it anymore.

So in the end, I wuda gladly taken the 6 watts except if i didn't have to give up anything .... but that list was a bit too long for 6 watts not to mention it costs me $85 for the XT45 to get 250 watts ($0.34 per watt) and that extra 6 watts (+$20) was costing me $3.33 per watt.

With my 420, (I have it set as far back as it can go and still leave access tot he top ports), I have about 1.125 inches of clearance between the fan frame and the fan the top of which I have placed flush with the bottom of the rad. It could go about an inch lower but I don't have bottom fans on as yet which are a bit over an inch at 27mm.

1.125 is < 29mm so even a St30 would be a no go with top rad in this position. However, there is room to slide the 420 forward about 3/4 of a inch so "theortetically" ya might fit a XT45. But for 83 watts (1250 rpm), not sure if it's worth the tubing complications.

If ya don't need 6 HD bays, I'd suggest putting the pump on the alternate mount location under the Top HD cage....I'd consider a cylindrical res.... I'm not a fan of bay res's as:

1. Been reports of seam failure (glued joints). Not sure if since addressed or cause.
2. Some peeps report rattling even with pumps decoupled and gurgling noises.
3. Harder to bleed, likely source of noise above.
4. Much smaller thermal mass.....mass of liquid is helpful for minimizing effect of fans reacting to changes in temps.....short spurts of extreme load can cause CPU temps to rise which raises coolant temps and fan speeds to chase the higher tamp..... with the CPU having a larger mass to heat up, the tempo change of both coolant and CPU is slower.

I think this layout is a bit more efficient

Pump(DDC 1T / Under HD cage) -> 480 Rad (in bottom) -> Graphics Card(s) -> 140 Rad ( in back) -> 420 Rad (top) -> CPU -> Res (5 1/4 Bay res) -> Pump

For 1 GFX card, you are way over radiated







..... not that I have a problem with going overboard ....

Say 300 watts for 780 Ti OC'd to the wall and 4770k at 4.6 GHz, say 135 watts

with 20 watts for the pump .....

455 watts max theoretical load x 60% = 273 watts.....

I'd expect that your 420 will cool that system and result in a 10.9C delta T with just push fans .... 9.0C in P/P
I'd expect that your 420 + 480 will cool that system and result in a 5.5C delta T with just push fans .... 4.6C in P/P
I'd expect that your 420 + 480 + 140 will cool that system and result in a4.7C delta T with just push fans .... 4.0C in P/P

Martin classified systems by delta T as follows:

< 10C Extreme
10C High End
20C Mid-range
30C Entry level

You really see a diminishing return after 10C.

Those numbers would change

If you add a 2nd GFX card, you'd still be quite a bit under 10C with the 420 + 480 even w/ just 1 set of fans.....a 420 + 280 will easily handle twin GFX cards and haswell OC'd


----------



## skywalker311

You are right with the way that you show it. That how I'm doing my loop. On my EK 420 rad, it has two top ports and two bottom. One was going to be used for a temperature plug and the other a fill port.
See I'm doing acrylic tubing. I thought either making a fill port on the top back side of the case or with the top panel off dill a hole right above the top port and use a XSPC fill port fitting on the top with a male to female fitting on the rad. when I put my rad in place and have where it attach to the top of the case I'll be able to see what I can do.Here some pics of the fittings

fill port fitting down at the end where the where the port will be

I 140mm fans I 140mm fan I 140mm fan I XSPC Male to female rotary fitting

EK 420 RAD

then 3 more 140mm fans for push/pull The two bottom ports with Primochill fittings


----------



## simsim44

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JayBeeCee*
> 
> Hi Guy's,
> 
> i have some questions belonging a water cooling build for my primo. I hope you can give me a feedback for my build.
> 
> I want to use a 480 push/pull in the bottom, and either a 420 UT45 (push/pull) or a 420 UT60 (pull from top) in top. I think I read that a 420 UT60 push/pull won't fit?!
> Furthermore I want to use a 140 UT30 in the back of the case. The question for me is: does a 420 in top and a 140 in the back fit next to each other? Could there be a problem with tubing because they are to close? And I dont have a clue of tubing yet, I think I gonna take a 16/13 PVC tube...
> 
> The ordner of components shall be following:
> Pump(DDC 1T / next to PSU) -> 480 Rad (in bottom) -> Graphics Card -> 140 Rad ( in back) -> 420 Rad (top) -> CPU -> Res (5 1/4 Bay res) -> Pump
> 
> Do you see any problems with this build? Please let me know if there are any improvements, its gonna be my first water cooling build!
> 
> JBC


I personally would not send the hot coolant/water right to the bay/res heat will take its toll on the res and the pump (long term) I went from CPU to rad as I think most others too.


----------



## Branish

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *simsim44*
> 
> I personally would not send the hot coolant/water right to the bay/res heat will take its toll on the res and the pump (long term) I went from CPU to rad as I think most others too.


Component order doesn't matter as the loop will reach equilibrium shortly after it has been powered on.

.


----------



## JayBeeCee

So you would say its ok like in my figure?


----------



## Branish

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JayBeeCee*
> 
> So you would say its ok like in my figure?


Yeah your loop looks really clean. My current build and my last water cooled build both had the CPU to reservoir configuration and there were no problems. I'm still using the same pump from the last build and it's years old and just as strong as when I first purchased it. The only way you'd have any issues with premature wear due to heat is if the flow in your loop was so bad that it stayed in one section for seconds at a time. Coolant flows so quickly that component order makes little to no difference.

If you decided to use push/pull on the UT60 the added fans fit fine but in my opinion the fans come down too far and overlap the motherboard making the build look really cramped and at the same time make you have to remove one of the fans to unplug the 8-pin EPS cable should ever need to do so. If you're going to be using a 480mm radiator on the floor and a 420mm radiator on the ceiling, there wouldn't really be any reason to use a slim radiator on the rear fan exhaust even if you're going to cool everything including multiple GPU's unless it's just for looks.


----------



## JayBeeCee

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> If ya don't need 6 HD bays, I'd suggest putting the pump on the alternate mount location under the Top HD cage....I'd consider a cylindrical res.... I'm not a fan of bay res's as:
> 
> 1. Been reports of seam failure (glued joints). Not sure if since addressed or cause.
> 2. Some peeps report rattling even with pumps decoupled and gurgling noises.
> 3. Harder to bleed, likely source of noise above.
> 4. Much smaller thermal mass.....mass of liquid is helpful for minimizing effect of fans reacting to changes in temps.....short spurts of extreme load can cause CPU temps to rise which raises coolant temps and fan speeds to chase the higher tamp..... with the CPU having a larger mass to heat up, the tempo change of both coolant and CPU is slower.
> 
> I think this layout is a bit more efficient
> 
> Pump(DDC 1T / Under HD cage) -> 480 Rad (in bottom) -> Graphics Card(s) -> 140 Rad ( in back) -> 420 Rad (top) -> CPU -> Res (5 1/4 Bay res) -> Pump


Since I am a newbie with watercooling, i had the feeling that a 5 1/4 Bay Res would be easy for me to install. I would take the EK Water Blocks Spin Reservoir. What do you think about this one?

I don't need any of the HDD cages. But since I use the 480 rad in bottom, where shall I place the pump? Rigth next to the front panel?
And do you have any suggestions for a Laing DDC pump cylindric res? And if so, where would be the best position to place it?
So far I am using a GTX580, when i am replacing the accelero Extreme I gonna mount that faceplate back in the case, so there would be space. But i don't really like the look of the cylindric res... I would only take one of those, if there is no other choice.

Sorry for my english, I am not a native speaker.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skywalker311*
> 
> You are right with the way that you show it. That how I'm doing my loop. On my EK 420 rad, it has two top ports and two bottom. One was going to be used for a temperature plug and the other a fill port.
> See I'm doing acrylic tubing. I thought either making a fill port on the top back side of the case or with the top panel off dill a hole right above the top port and use a XSPC fill port fitting on the top with a male to female fitting on the rad. when I put my rad in place and have where it attach to the top of the case I'll be able to see what I can do.Here some pics of the fittings
> 
> fill port fitting down at the end where the where the port will be
> 
> I 140mm fans I 140mm fan I 140mm fan I XSPC Male to female rotary fitting
> 
> EK 420 RAD


I also did acrylic tubing



You don't need to drill or a bulkhead fitting for the Enthoo..... sliding the rad forward just a bit from the back puts the two ports in open area.



If you looking to free another top port, using a M X M threaded fitting, from the port shown above and then a Tee on top of that would allow a thermal sensor to be installed and the top side of the tee would make a fine fill port.

Plug / fill port
|
|-- Tee with Temp Sensor
|
M x M Fitting
|
Radiator

Here's the links for the parts shud ya wanna go that route.

Bitspower Dual G1/4" Male / Male Fitting - Matte Black (BP-MBWP-C08)
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/10363/ex-tub-609/Bitspower_Dual_G14_Male_Male_Fitting_-_Matte_Black_BP-MBWP-C08.html?tl=c101s1354b145

Bitspower G1/4" Matte Black T Adapter (BP-MBTMB)
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/10382/ex-tub-622/Bitspower_G14_Matte_Black_T_Adapter_BP-MBTMB.html

Bitspower G 1/4" Temperature Sensor Stop Fitting - Matte Black (BP-MBWP-CT)
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/10373/ex-tub-620/Bitspower_G_14_Temperature_Sensor_Stop_Fitting_-_Matte_Black_BP-MBWP-CT.html?tl=c229s579b145&id=kISyRgfV&mv_pc=643 ex-tub-620

Bitspower G1/4" Low Profile Matte Black Stop Plug w/ O-Ring (BP-MBWP-C09)
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/10362/ex-tub-610/Bitspower_G14_Low_Profile_Matte_Black_Stop_Plug_w_O-Ring_BP-MBWP-C09.html

But, as I see it, I don't think ya need to do that .....I think all ya need to do is ..... with rad mounted as above.....

-Screw in a 30mm extension with temp sensor / plug on top
-Screw in a 30mm extension with plug on top for fill port

BTW, make sure ya put in the extensions before ya tighten Rad down.... you could wind up with the top fan / rad mounting plate wedged between the fitting and the rad and ya won't be able to get a good seal on the O-Ring

Here's a pic of mine with two 30mm extensions and plugs .... Used 1 as a fill port / 2nd as a bleed port ... in this manner you will be able to access the plugs and be able to unscrew them easily with fans in place and also use loosen the temp sensor if ya wanna bleed while filling....otherwise getting fingers down that hole between the case well and the fans is challenging



That was done w/ no drill and no bulkhead fitting..... you can see the two 30mm extensions which I just added to get the connection point higher than the fans (27mm thick) for easier access. You can also see the wire from the temp sensor which comes from the sideport.

BTW, I found the tubing is much easier with the top rad ports in the back and the bottom ra ports in the front. Ya can also use some leftover acrylic and a mini valve to make a fill port extension. Valve comes in real handy for preventing air getting into the system. Fill the tube, close the valve, turn on pump....as air bubbles come out and go in tube, it;'s replaces with coolant..... also for topping off res, it allows you to control coolant going in. Just close valve when coolant drops to the plug level and no air can get in



How ya going to set up ya drain ? When I had a 480 planned I was gonna take it out thru a drilled hole in the rear of the case. Two reasons why I chose a 280 instead for the bottom were.....

1. 420 + 280 is more than enuff Rad for Haswell (4.6 Ghz)+ any twin GFX cards (25% OC)
2. Ya get to do this Quick Disconnect thingie for the drain




Collecting for ideas in case I ever wind up doing a build with a 480 down there .... my 2 sons will graduate college this year and they and several friends are looking for me to help them w/ graduation builds.

I discovered a 3rd reason .... Doyll was the 1st to point out the limited intake at the bottom is limited.... at least with 480's. The 280 installation however manages to steal air flow from the front case fan inlets, down thru the floor gratting and then up thru the Rad..... kept wondering why I was getting more cooling from the bottom 280 than the top 420 (with top grille on) and that was the reason (now since remedied).

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *simsim44*
> 
> I personally would not send the hot coolant/water right to the bay/res heat will take its toll on the res and the pump (long term) I went from CPU to rad as I think most others too.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Branish*
> 
> Component order doesn't matter as the loop will reach equilibrium shortly after it has been powered on..


You're talking like 2.0 - 2.5C temp difference max across both rads and that's with fans at low speeds.....1.5 across one

Right now running Prime 95 w/ AVX

GPUs => 420 Rad In (26.3C) / 420 Rad Out (25.9C) => CPU Block => MoBo Block => Res => Pump => 280 Rad In (26.4C) / 280 Rad Out (26.1C) =>GPUs

So if I had the 2nd Rad before the Res, water temps would be 0.3C lower. On Furmark, I can get the temps up higher but max difference at I have seen across both rads was 2.3C. I wouldn't go from GFX cards to CPU without a rad in between if possible but 1-2C shouldn't bother a res or pump. Highest I was ever able to get my coolant temp was just under 38-39C ...and that was with all fans off.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JayBeeCee*
> 
> Since I am a newbie with watercooling, i had the feeling that a 5 1/4 Bay Res would be easy for me to install. I would take the EK Water Blocks Spin Reservoir. What do you think about this one?
> 
> I don't need any of the HDD cages. But since I use the 480 rad in bottom, where shall I place the pump? Rigth next to the front panel?
> And do you have any suggestions for a Laing DDC pump cylindric res? And if so, where would be the best position to place it?
> 
> Sorry for my english, I am not a native speaker.


In the Enthoo, a cylindrical res is extremely easy to install....you often don't even need the nuts that come with it.....look at the white one above (EK Res-3 250).... The two screws go right into the res bracket, and done.

As for the alternate pump mounting .....

1. Take out the bottom HD cage, leaving the upper cage installed.
2. Take the pump mounting plate from the position by the PSU and move to the alternate location under the HD cages.
3. I don't recommend coupling pumps and reservoirs .... not that there is anything bad in doing so but it sometimes introduces warranty issues and does transmit pump vibrations to the res which in turn transfers them to the case.

here's a pic of the 35x2 which is two DDC pumps in a common housing and mounted on a heat sink with fan



This would be the equivalent for a single pump



http://www.frozencpu.com/products/13221/ex-pmp-138/Swiftech_MCP35X-HS_Pump_Heatsink_-_Laing_DDC-1T1TPlus_MCP-35035535X.html#blank


----------



## Branish

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JayBeeCee*
> 
> Since I am a newbie with watercooling, i had the feeling that a 5 1/4 Bay Res would be easy for me to install. I would take the EK Water Blocks Spin Reservoir. What do you think about this one?
> 
> I don't need any of the HDD cages. But since I use the 480 rad in bottom, where shall I place the pump? Rigth next to the front panel?
> And do you have any suggestions for a Laing DDC pump cylindric res? And if so, where would be the best position to place it?
> So far I am using a GTX580, when i am replacing the accelero Extreme I gonna mount that faceplate back in the case, so there would be space. But i don't really like the look of the cylindric res... I would only take one of those, if there is no other choice.
> 
> Sorry for my english, I am not a native speaker.


If you don't like the look of the cylinder reservoirs then I wouldn't use one since every time you look through the window at your build it's going to bother you. The way I am if I can't stand something is I have to change it. Jack is right though in the points he brought up about bay reservoirs. The only additional thing I want to add to Jack's list is if your'e going for tight bends in your loop you will have to have some slack in the tubing going to the bay res as you will need to be able to pull out the res a bit to fill it which can ruin the aesthetics a bit.


----------



## bond32

Just recovered from a potentially catastrophic disaster. Me in my infinite wisdom decided to use barb fittings with no clamps on my d5 bay reservoir... was watching TV while my pC was mining when I heard that terrible sound. The outlet hose blew off completely. There was water everywhere but most alarming was the video card. Spent a few hours drying and recovering mentally and fired it up again. All seems well now. No damages.

Lesson learned. Use compression fittings everywhere. Don't cut corners like I did.

Sent from my SM-N900P using Tapatalk


----------



## CoopsTHC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> Just recovered from a potentially catastrophic disaster. Me in my infinite wisdom decided to use barb fittings with no clamps on my d5 bay reservoir... was watching TV while my pC was mining when I heard that terrible sound. The outlet hose blew off completely. There was water everywhere but most alarming was the video card. Spent a few hours drying and recovering mentally and fired it up again. All seems well now. No damages.
> 
> Lesson learned. Use compression fittings everywhere. Don't cut corners like I did.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N900P using Tapatalk


I'm happy for you bro, i don't even want to try and imagine how you felt while it was drying out...


----------



## bond32

This has happened to me before, but before it wasn't near this bad. If I wasn't there to cut the power I'm sure the entire system would be toast.


----------



## chino1974

Hey guys can I join the club? Finally got my Enthoo last night!!! I am so excited to rio into it. I am going to be swapping out my setup from the 900d and dropping it into the Enthoo. So far just from visually inspecting the case when I opened the box I really am impressed with Phanteks. The quality, fit and finish of this case is very good. I really like everything they thought into it. Wish I could still use the res bracket but with a RIVE and 3 7970's there's no way to fit it. Here's a quick pic.



I have a pretty basic question fir everyone. I can't seem to get a straight answer to this. Which would perform better?

Black Ice GTX 360 which is 54mm thick
or
Swiftech MCR480QP which is 30mm thick ?


----------



## rpjkw11

Brrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr!!!!! Those experiences make my blood run cold. Being the coward that I am, there's another reason I will (most likely) stay with air.


----------



## simsim44

@Chino1974

I think Jack would be the best to answer your question, I like the thinner solution, it may come down to personal preference


----------



## tolis626

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rpjkw11*
> 
> Brrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr!!!!! Those experiences make my blood run cold. Being the coward that I am, there's another reason I will (most likely) stay with air.


If you take all possible precautions (Compression fittings being one of them), then water cooling should be pretty safe, bar some pretty major mess-up on the user side. In fact, being a nutjob overclocker, I feel quite a lot safer with water as there is a much slimmer possibility of anything failing from overclocking. At least, if something does fail,it probably won't be from overheating.


----------



## bond32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tolis626*
> 
> If you take all possible precautions (Compression fittings being one of them), then water cooling should be pretty safe, bar some pretty major mess-up on the user side. In fact, being a nutjob overclocker, I feel quite a lot safer with water as there is a much slimmer possibility of anything failing from overclocking. At least, if something does fail,it probably won't be from overheating.


This. Honestly I think I just got too relaxed with my safety precautions. I have some barb fittings that are really well designed - it is very difficult to get certain types of tubing off it. However, this was a different type of tubing that came off and it is much more flexible hence the disaster. Also I normally do put clamps on the pump inlet/outlet however didn't this time. Learned my lesson...

Everything is fine though surprisingly enough. No issues at all. I had water all over my 290x which was mining at the time of the flood. Also got water all over all 8 of my AP-15's however they all seemed fine. Got a little on the motherboard, but once it all dried so far no issues.


----------



## Roxycon

@chino1974 the 480 will perform better.. #fans > thickness of rads, this is both for acoustics and total W dissipated, but that being said, thicker rads do look better than the skinny ones


----------



## rpjkw11

You are, of course, 110% correct. Were I ever to try watercooling, and one day I shall, I think I'd feel safer buying a good quality AIO with little maintenance. I wouldn't want less than 240mm for better cooling. I've even considered Swiftech's H320 Elite, even though it's not an AIO. I'm not even sure a 360mm triple fan AIO is available.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Static-LNX*
> 
> Plus the entire reason for that AIO was to get him started with water-cooling that he can expand with more rads/blocks/pumps/reservoirs later


But....AiO are not expandable (unless you are talking about the H220/240L). Why not go with an XSPC kit in that case.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rpjkw11*
> 
> You are, of course, 110% correct. Were I ever to try watercooling, and one day I shall, I think I'd feel safer buying a good quality AIO with little maintenance. I wouldn't want less than 240mm for better cooling. I've even considered Swiftech's H320 Elite, even though it's not an AIO. I'm not even sure a 360mm triple fan AIO is available.


I know a lot of people who feel this way, it seems pretty daunting, but almost all of the catastrophes you hear about are due to install negligence. Especially now, with fittings and hardware being much higher quality than they were just a very short time ago.

Fortunately, Swiftech makes a very high quality open loop AiO in the H220/H320, and they have a new and improved batch in a variety of sizes being released soon. Fractal has been showing an AiO prototype that has a copper/brass rad and looks to be open loop, also. There are also two other top tier manufacturers prepping open loop AiO for release later this year.


----------



## Static-LNX

I was talking about the Swiftech H220 which is now installed and working flawlessly with his waterblocked 780ti. The reason I didn't get him an actual watercooling kit and opted for the Swiftech H220 is because hes 14 with barely any experience and didnt feel confident enough to not worry about it.
His temps are just above ambient at idle and go to 120's F* under full load for anyone curious.


----------



## rpjkw11

I
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> But....AiO are not expandable (unless you are talking about the H220/240L). Why not go with an XSPC kit in that case.
> I know a lot of people who feel this way, it seems pretty daunting, but almost all of the catastrophes you hear about are due to install negligence. Especially now, with fittings and hardware being much higher quality than they were just a very short time ago.
> 
> Fortunately, Swiftech makes a very high quality open loop AiO in the H220/H320, and they have a new and improved batch in a variety of sizes being released soon. Fractal has been showing an AiO prototype that has a copper/brass rad and looks to be open loop, also. There are also two other top tier manufacturers prepping open loop AiO for release later this year.


The problem I've noticed, however, is Swiftech is still being held hostage by a patent dispute so their AIOs aren't available in the US. Coolermaster partnered with them to market the Glacer AIO, but while there's been talk about a 320 size, that hasn't materialized and perhaps never will. Expandability isn't much of a concern. Yet. I'm an staunch nVidia user so their GPU temps aren't a major problem at this time. Someday I may have to rethink, but if I can find a 320 sized AIO, then in all likelihood I'll take the plunge. I've always bought full tower cases because I like to have more than I really need; the same goes for an AIO.


----------



## rpjkw11

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Static-LNX*
> 
> I was talking about the Swiftech H220 which is now installed and working flawlessly with his waterblocked 780ti. The reason I didn't get him an actual watercooling kit and opted for the Swiftech H220 is because hes 14 with barely any experience and didnt feel confident enough to not worry about it.
> His temps are just above ambient at idle and go to 120's F* under full load for anyone curious.


I think your idea and reasoning was excellent.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rpjkw11*
> 
> I
> The problem I've noticed, however, is Swiftech is still being held hostage by a patent dispute so their AIOs aren't available in the US. Coolermaster partnered with them to market the Glacer AIO, but while there's been talk about a 320 size, that hasn't materialized and perhaps never will. Expandability isn't much of a concern. Yet. I'm an staunch nVidia user so their GPU temps aren't a major problem at this time. Someday I may have to rethink, but if I can find a 320 sized AIO, then in all likelihood I'll take the plunge. I've always bought full tower cases because I like to have more than I really need; the same goes for an AIO.


The hostage situation will be ending very soon, and the Swiftech H320X will be available in the US, with a couple of other major players to follow with quality pre-assembled open loops. The whole patent thing is ridiculous. As much as I understand Asetek's intent, it left the consumer with a huge gap between the Swiftech pieces and CLC coolers....that isn't a step down, that is getting kicked off a cliff. It also delayed other quality pieces that are still on hold due to this. Asetek bought themselves and CoolIt another year in the sun, but I think they also gave other manufacturers another year to develop a platform that was already world's ahead of what they have.


----------



## rpjkw11

That is great news! I'm waiting for the white Phanteks Enthoo Primo to become available. I have the black case so I'll go with a total new build in the white case. I'm kicking around the idea of going with the Intel i7 4930K CPU. Fortunately, I have a very understanding and supportive wife.


----------



## simsim44

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rpjkw11*
> 
> That is great news! I'm waiting for the white Phanteks Enthoo Primo to become available. I have the black case so I'll go with a total new build in the white case. I'm kicking around the idea of going with the Intel i7 4930K CPU. Fortunately, I have a very understanding and supportive wife.


Are you trying to convince us ...or yourself...lol JK, I too have a wonderful woman that has not so much as to utter a word on the 6k I have spent on the first Primo, a second would only ware on my guilt LOL.
yes 6k I have two motherboards and 4 GPU's, and an AIO cooler that are packed up and put away as they didn't work out for what I was going for


----------



## chino1974

Guys I think I jumped the gun alil on giving so much praise to the case. Would anyone know what the easiest way to get on touch with a hardware rep for Phanteks would be? I started putting my buuld together and realized the fan hub doesn't work and one of the front led fans is doing a terrible grinding noise. I really like the case so far though. And from what I've heard so far Phanteks has goid customer support. So I am hoping they replace these items without much headache.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chino1974*
> 
> Guys I think I jumped the gun alil on giving so much praise to the case. Would anyone know what the easiest way to get on touch with a hardware rep for Phanteks would be? I started putting my buuld together and realized the fan hub doesn't work and one of the front led fans is doing a terrible grinding noise. I really like the case so far though. And from what I've heard so far Phanteks has goid customer support. So I am hoping they replace these items without much headache.


http://www.phanteks.com/requestform.html


----------



## chino1974

Has anyone here ever tried sandwiching 2 rads togetger? I was thinking of doing 2-360mm EK XTX rads in the bottom. Basically fans-rad-fans-rad-fans. Would it be ok or would it hurt performance?


----------



## Gunilla95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chino1974*
> 
> Has anyone here ever tried sandwiching 2 rads togetger? I was thinking of doing 2-360mm EK XTX rads in the bottom. Basically fans-rad-fans-rad-fans. Would it be ok or would it hurt performance?


Interesting! I´ve been wondering that too!

i thought of 2 45mm rads and then do a parallel connection on them, like 2 Gpu's would look amazing in my opinion.
If anyone has info on that topic pls whrite it!


----------



## bond32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gunilla95*
> 
> Interesting! I´ve been wondering that too!
> 
> i thought of 2 45mm rads and then do a parallel connection on them, like 2 Gpu's would look amazing in my opinion.
> If anyone has info on that topic pls whrite it!


http://martinsliquidlab.org/2012/06/08/hesmelaughs-radiator-sandwich-testing/

Results were not as impressive as you would hope for...


----------



## Gunilla95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> http://martinsliquidlab.org/2012/06/08/hesmelaughs-radiator-sandwich-testing/
> 
> Results were not as impressive as you would hope for...


Nice graphs









Well you can always do it for aesthetics now that we know that the results aren't that good,


----------



## chino1974

So basically it's not a good idea unless you're using high rpm fans. I wonder how 9 Scythe Ultra Kaze 3000 rpm 38mm fans would sound with 2 360 rads sandwiched between them? Lol!!! Better have good headphones to try and block out some of the noise.


----------



## Branish

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chino1974*
> 
> So basically it's not a good idea unless you're using high rpm fans. I wonder how 9 Scythe Ultra Kaze 3000 rpm 38mm fans would sound with 2 360 rads sandwiched between them? Lol!!! Better have good headphones to try and block out some of the noise.


Oh man. I used to run one Ultra Kaze 3000rpm 38mm fan as an intake fan and man was that loud. It was like a small hurricane in my case though.


----------



## Gunilla95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Branish*
> 
> Oh man. I used to run one Ultra Kaze 3000rpm 38mm fan as an intake fan and man was that loud. It was like a small hurricane in my case though.


As we speak of load fans, I pulled a 48v Delta fan out of an old server once, don know the rpm, just know it was a 120mm and it had about 4 - 5 cm thickness. and i think i have to take in a gif to describe it.


----------



## Branish

I was going to say this:


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chino1974*
> 
> Hey guys can I join the club? Finally got my Enthoo last night!!! I am so excited to rio into it. I am going to be swapping out my setup from the 900d and dropping it into the Enthoo. So far just from visually inspecting the case when I opened the box I really am impressed with Phanteks. The quality, fit and finish of this case is very good. I really like everything they thought into it. Wish I could still use the res bracket but with a RIVE and 3 7970's there's no way to fit it. Here's a quick pic.
> 
> I have a pretty basic question fir everyone. I can't seem to get a straight answer to this. Which would perform better?
> 
> Black Ice GTX 360 which is 54mm thick
> or
> Swiftech MCR480QP which is 30mm thick ?


Thickness is a non factor.....

This is the approximate amount you get outta each 120mm of Alphacool rads

ST30 - 60
XT45 - 61
UT60 - 63
Monsta 80 - 66

So if those were as efficient as the Alpha's.....

30mm-480 = 4 x 60 = 240 watts
60mm-360 = 3 x 63 or 189 watts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rpjkw11*
> 
> You are, of course, 110% correct. Were I ever to try watercooling, and one day I shall, I think I'd feel safer buying a good quality AIO with little maintenance. I wouldn't want less than 240mm for better cooling. I've even considered Swiftech's H320 Elite, even though it's not an AIO. I'm not even sure a 360mm triple fan AIO is available.


And this is why I feel the opposite









http://www.overclock.net/t/1440506/my-corsair-h60-exploded-water-explosion

http://www.overclock.net/t/1440506/my-corsair-h60-exploded-water-explosion
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rpjkw11*
> 
> I
> The problem I've noticed, however, is Swiftech is still being held hostage by a patent dispute so their AIOs aren't available in the US. Coolermaster partnered with them to market the Glacer AIO, but while there's been talk about a 320 size, that hasn't materialized and perhaps never will. Expandability isn't much of a concern. Yet. I'm an staunch nVidia user so their GPU temps aren't a major problem at this time. Someday I may have to rethink, but if I can find a 320 sized AIO, then in all likelihood I'll take the plunge. I've always bought full tower cases because I like to have more than I really need; the same goes for an AIO.


1. That patent thing is long gone. Swiftech designed around the infringement and has been available here in US for a while now.

2. So is the 320 so plunge away









Three versions at FCPU

http://www.frozencpu.com/cat/l3/g/c83/s137/list/p1/b33/Swiftech-Water_Cooling_Kits_Cases-Water_Cooling_Kits-Page1.html

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chino1974*
> 
> Guys I think I jumped the gun alil on giving so much praise to the case. Would anyone know what the easiest way to get on touch with a hardware rep for Phanteks would be? I started putting my buuld together and realized the fan hub doesn't work and one of the front led fans is doing a terrible grinding noise. I really like the case so far though. And from what I've heard so far Phanteks has goid customer support. So I am hoping they replace these items without much headache.


Define hub doesn't work .... reason I ask, it has to be hooked up properly....please describe how you have it wired. best place is Phanteks support and forums.

http://phanteks.com/support.html
http://phanteks.com/forum/forum.php

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chino1974*
> 
> Has anyone here ever tried sandwiching 2 rads togetger? I was thinking of doing 2-360mm EK XTX rads in the bottom. Basically fans-rad-fans-rad-fans. Would it be ok or would it hurt performance?


We covered this a few pages back..... not a good idea....two in sandwich was worse than one.

http://martinsliquidlab.org/2012/06/08/hesmelaughs-radiator-sandwich-testing/
Quote:


> The reason for this is that air has very poor specific heat capacity and for the most part already heated up after it passes through the first radiator leaving the second radiator with already used up warm air that simply doesn't have any storage for more heat. In addition the second radiator causes problems with fan performance adding air and water restriction to the single radiator condition. I suspect this may change very slightly with extremely high fan speeds (3000+RPM) types, but I think it's pretty well safe to say stacking of radiators just doesn't work well at all and generally should be avoided if the intent is performance increase.
> 
> The first, shocking realization is this: _The stacked rads almost always perform worse than the solo rad with the same number of fans_. The rest of the data is as expected: Two separate rads perform best, more fans are always better and the airflow going from warmer to cooler rad is slightly worse than the other way around.


..... Edit: Oops, nevermind


----------



## chino1974

JackNaylorPE thanks for the imfo. I got im touch with Phanteks and went through a few different ways of plugging it up. Tried just the mobo cpu header, then cpu ueader and psu. First with fan one then with fan 1 and others and no go. I sent them a email as requested by the service rep with copies of my invoice so hopefully it'll be replced with the 140 led fan soon.


----------



## simsim44

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chino1974*
> 
> JackNaylorPE thanks for the imfo. I got im touch with Phanteks and went through a few different ways of plugging it up. Tried just the mobo cpu header, then cpu ueader and psu. First with fan one then with fan 1 and others and no go. I sent them a email as requested by the service rep with copies of my invoice so hopefully it'll be replced with the 140 led fan soon.


Good deal,...... like I said jack would be to best answer your Rad question, I do like the thinner rads for effectiveness to price ratio


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Should be MoBo Header => PCB input => 1 fan on channel 1 ..... 2 fans on Channel 2 .....2 fans on Channel 3 .....2 fans on Channel 4 .....

Any more than that, and I am talking Phanteks 01.4 amp fans, nuthing bigger and you may fry something

If ya use CPU PWM header, then ya can add more if PSU feed is plugged in.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *simsim44*
> 
> Good deal,...... like I said jack would be to best answer your Rad question, I do like the thinner rads for effectiveness to price ratio


The XT45s are a sweet deal...cheaper than the ST30s

Length ST30 XT45 UT60
120 $40 $46 $53
240 $53 $58 $77
360 $68 $80 $100
480 $85 $105 $130
140 $55 _$50_ $58
280 $73 _$66_ $77
420 $95 _$85_ $105
560 $120 _$105_ $120


----------



## simsim44

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> The XT45s are a sweet deal...cheaper than the ST30s
> 
> Length ST30 XT45 UT60
> 120 $40 $46 $53
> 240 $53 $58 $77
> 360 $68 $80 $100
> 480 $85 $105 $130
> 140 $55 _$50_ $58
> 280 $73 _$66_ $77
> 420 $95 _$85_ $105
> 560 $120 _$105_ $120


you know I just looked at the price of the XT45/360 and thought, that wouldn't be a bad solution to my dismay Performance is currently out of stock.


----------



## Strider49

Do you know if a Black Ice GT Xtreme 420 (http://hardwarelabs.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=18&Itemid=8) rad will fit on the top of this case without any hassle? My Mobo is a Maximus VI Hero.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Strider49*
> 
> Do you know if a Black Ice GT Xtreme 420 (http://hardwarelabs.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=18&Itemid=8) rad will fit on the top of this case without any hassle? My Mobo is a Maximus VI Hero.


you might have a hard time fitting in. I have a xt45 triple 140 mm (144 width) and was quite a tight fit to place it in. 154 mm of GT







....

JackNaylorPE not entirely accurate the info you gave about Swiftech. Those units you point are older models and more expensive because they came as a kit not assembled. H220 and h320 are still not for sale in US (http://www.swiftech.com/LC_kits.aspx). What it is for sale is the h220 version from Cooler Master (made by swiftech) the Glace 240L (=H220 with minor modifications). Also pretty soon another substitute for the h220 will be available and launch in US the x220 if I recall correctly the naming scheme which is a different unit with a different pump, rad and 5.25 bay reservoir.


----------



## doyll

:
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> Should be MoBo Header => PCB input => 1 fan on channel 1 ..... 2 fans on Channel 2 .....2 fans on Channel 3 .....2 fans on Channel 4 .....
> 
> Any more than that, and I am talking Phanteks 01*.*4 amp fans, nuthing bigger and you may fry something
> 
> If ya use CPU PWM header, then ya can add more if PSU feed is plugged in.


0*.*14 amps, 1.8 watt

Jack, your contributions to the forum are great. Lots of good data and advice.









And Jack is not the only one. We have a great group of people here.

Thank you everyone who contributes to our great Phanteks case forum.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> you might have a hard time fitting in. I have a xt45 triple 140 mm (144 width) and was quite a tight fit to place it in. 154 mm of GT
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ....
> 
> JackNaylorPE not entirely accurate the info you gave about Swiftech. Those units you point are older models and more expensive because they came as a kit not assembled. H220 and h320 are still not for sale in US (http://www.swiftech.com/LC_kits.aspx). What it is for sale is the h220 version from Cooler Master (made by swiftech) the Glace 240L (=H220 with minor modifications). Also pretty soon another substitute for the h220 will be available and launch in US the x220 if I recall correctly the naming scheme which is a different unit with a different pump, rad and 5.25 bay reservoir.


They are the H220X, H320X, H140X and H240X. I can't recall if there was a 340 variant. It does use a res, but it is a micro-res attached to the rad. You can certainly add a 5.25" bayres, though.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *simsim44*
> 
> Good deal,...... like I said jack would be to best answer your Rad question, I do like the thinner rads for effectiveness to price ratio


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> you might have a hard time fitting in. I have a xt45 triple 140 mm (144 width) and was quite a tight fit to place it in. 154 mm of GT
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ....
> 
> JackNaylorPE not entirely accurate the info you gave about Swiftech. Those units you point are older models and more expensive because they came as a kit not assembled. H220 and h320 are still not for sale in US (http://www.swiftech.com/LC_kits.aspx). What it is for sale is the h220 version from Cooler Master (made by swiftech) the Glace 240L (=H220 with minor modifications). Also pretty soon another substitute for the h220 will be available and launch in US the x220 if I recall correctly the naming scheme which is a different unit with a different pump, rad and 5.25 bay reservoir.


I wasn't making a representation of getting what is on sale in other countries being available in US. I was saying if ya want or double or triple rad from Swiftech you can buy one. Swiftech had another way around the patent as I recall with a pump mounted on the rad instead of the block but I don't see that one anymore at FCPU.....mighta been on their FB page, can't recall.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> :
> 0*.*14 amps, 1.8 watt
> 
> :


I always wondered where they were going there ..... I was guessing 0.14 amps running and 0.15 startup ? ....seems low....either that or 12.9 volts.

BTW, anyone know whatz goin on with the forum of late..... 1st the oddball icons ..... now I stopped getting e-mail notifications


----------



## Zakiel

Hello! Long time lurker and first time poster here. I just finished doing a loop on my Enthoo Primo and it was a blast to work on it. While its not the best loop but considering it's my first time. I think I did a good job








Please tell me what you think and what I could improve upon.


----------



## Dutchone

Looks great!! Can you post your specs? I`m thinking about using the same fittings. Are dose the dark chrome or the chrome ones? Which gpu`s are those?

To the improvements:

- Maybe you could use some 45° rotary lightports on clear tubing with blue LED`s.
- Do you have one of those little tubes in your res, so your coolant is led below your waterlevel?


----------



## CoopsTHC

[Build Log] Project Frostworks (Phanteks Enthoo Primo)


----------



## simsim44

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zakiel*
> 
> Hello! Long time lurker and first time poster here. I just finished doing a loop on my Enthoo Primo and it was a blast to work on it. While its not the best loop but considering it's my first time. I think I did a good job
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Please tell me what you think and what I could improve upon.


That looks nice, clean. The Phanteks loom holder on the white PCIe cables is a nice touch.
I just want to know where you got the bottle ******









Looking good Coops!


----------



## Zakiel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dutchone*
> 
> Looks great!! Can you post your specs? I`m thinking about using the same fittings. Are dose the dark chrome or the chrome ones? Which gpu`s are those?
> 
> To the improvements:
> 
> - Maybe you could use some 45° rotary lightports on clear tubing with blue LED`s.
> - Do you have one of those little tubes in your res, so your coolant is led below your waterlevel?


Thanks!
Specs:
3570k, 16gb ram, 2x 290x, Seasonic x-1050, P8z77 pro, and some ssd and hdd.
WC:
All modmytoys CHROME fittings and bitspower shiny silver.
EK acetal pump top for D5 and all acetal for cpu and gpus block. No nickle flaking for me.
Bitspower Ztank 200mm
Alphacool 420mm UT60 and 280mm monsta

I'm thinking about switching over to clear hard tubing soon and will try the lightports. Despite how big the case is, I still find it a bit tight to fit everything thing in. I shoulda got a smaller reservoir so I can do push/pull on the 420mm. I do have a little cylindrical tube on the top of my res as an inlet and frosted stopper that have led slot if thats you meant.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *simsim44*
> 
> That looks nice, clean. The Phanteks loom holder on the white PCIe cables is a nice touch.
> I just want to know where you got the bottle ******


Thank you!








I got the bottle ****** thingy from Phanteks when I was trying to get a replacement clips for the front.


----------



## Dutchone

false
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zakiel*
> 
> Thanks!
> Specs:
> 3570k, 16gb ram, 2x 290x, Seasonic x-1050, P8z77 pro


Is it the ram or the mobo that glows? That looks awesome! Which 290x have you got? Want to use the Lightning, but then I need to remove or mod the res-brecket. Maybe I can mount the res in front.


----------



## chino1974

Here's alil progress on my build. Still has a long way to go. But so far it has been nice. Gotta admit for such a big case it is pretty tight to work inside. But I also got used to working on big interior cases lately (Switch 810, Phantom 820, 900d in the last 2 years) Can't wait to finish the wiring and fill the loop!!


----------



## Zakiel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dutchone*
> 
> false
> Is it the ram or the mobo that glows? That looks awesome! Which 290x have you got? Want to use the Lightning, but then I need to remove or mod the res-brecket. Maybe I can mount the res in front.


I got the sapphire reference pcb back in 2013 October. The ram are crucial tactical tracer with orange and blue LEDs. I had to cut a small part of the res bracket to fit my 2nd card. Doing so, I had to use cable tie for my res so its slight slanted.


----------



## grifftech

Anyone know if Phantek will replace the front filter latches? Mine won't click and hold the panel in place and is VERY annoying.

Thanks,
Griff


----------



## grifftech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CoopsTHC*
> 
> [Build Log] Project Frostworks (Phanteks Enthoo Primo)


I LOVE that idea, I am going to find a nice bright blue to do mine in.


----------



## simsim44

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *grifftech*
> 
> I LOVE that idea, I am going to find a nice bright blue to do mine in.


that thought already crossed my mind, it was a short trip


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *grifftech*
> 
> Anyone know if Phantek will replace the front filter latches? Mine won't click and hold the panel in place and is VERY annoying.
> 
> Thanks,
> Griff


You just need to contact Phanteks support and they will send you new ones. Apparently Zakiel even got a Phanteks Enthoo Primo bottle ****** for his trouble. I didn't get any free gifts with mine.

Unfortunately several of us have had the same issue, and some of us (myself included) have went ahead and bought extras of the latches so that we don't have to wait / go through Phanteks support if/when one of the latches fails in the future. In the US I've found them referred to as a *non-magnetic mini touch latch* and in the UK they can be found by searching for a '*push click bin latch*'.


----------



## Gunilla95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *grifftech*
> 
> Anyone know if Phantek will replace the front filter latches? Mine won't click and hold the panel in place and is VERY annoying.
> 
> Thanks,
> Griff


Yes they do replace the plastic clips if they are borken.
i got mine replaced and the big window )had a giant scratch at delivery)

they even sent 2 clips extra. So got a total of 4 clips! Just send them a mail and woala.
Many here had that issue, especially at lanch! So thats more like a standard issue.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gunilla95*
> 
> Yes they do replace the plastic clips if they are borken.
> i got mine replaced and the big window )had a giant scratch at delivery)
> 
> they even sent 2 clips extra. So got a total of 4 clips! Just send them a mail and woala.
> Many here had that issue, especially at lanch! So thats more like a standard issue.


Hmmm, they didn't send me any extra latches, which is why I went out and spent more than $20 to buy extras myself.

. In fact. they made me go through a bunch of replies back and forth for more than a week before they even decided to go ahead and send me replacements. Almost every time I inquired about it or answered a question they had they failed to get back to me until I replied a second time a day or more later asking what's up.

It seems every one else has had a different experience with them than me but to tell the truth they really pissed me off and I have been *VERY disappointed in Phanteks support* over the whole experience. I hope I never have to deal with them again and seriously doubt that I'll ever buy another Phanteks product because of it.

Matter of fact, here's the email chain after I first contacted support on Nov 24 and it took many back and forths until they finally shipped out on Dec 3 and I didn't receive it until more than a week after that. The whole time, several weeks in all, I couldn't even put the front grill on my new case.

Quote:


> Phanteks RMA Support [email protected]
> 
> 11/25/13
> 
> to me
> Hello William,
> 
> Thank you for contacting us!
> 
> Please try to click with just the clips without the front panel. You can use a screwdriver to push the clips in. If they lock then the clips are ok. if they don't click then the clips are broken. Sometimes it is easier to have the top door open while you are trying to lock the front panel on. This allows you to see how far you need to push both sides in till it locks. Please let me know how that works out for you. if the clips are broken we can send you the replacement clips. Sorry for the inconveniences.
> 
> thanks,
> Phanteks
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> On 11/24/2013 5:59 PM, [email protected] wrote:
> 
> Form details below.
> 
> Comments: I am the owner of an Enthoo Primo case bought through the Phanteks site, order #131011, and received exactly one month ago today.
> 
> Myu issue: The front filter cover will not click into place and stay there. There are two tabs on the filter cover which fit into push-click latches which are not functioning properly.
> 
> Please help. Thanks.
> Bill
Click to expand...

Quote:


> 11/25/13
> 
> to Phanteks
> There is no click whatsoever and the clips just spring right back out even when pushed all the way in to where they stop and cannot be pushed in any further.
> 
> I hope this is something that can be pretty easily remedied. I really luv this case but haven't even begun to use it yet. It's still sitting here empty waiting on me to finish getting the parts I need to go in it. It was only my first time removing the front filter panel when I noticed it wouldn't click back into place.
> [email protected]


Quote:


> 11/26/13
> 
> to Phanteks
> Any word about this?
> 
> After all this time all I'm now lacking to finish my build is the 64GB memory kit which should be here today or tomorrow, and now the front dust filter panel won't stay on the case. :/
> 
> Thanks for any help you can provide.


Quote:


> Phanteks RMA Support [email protected]
> 
> 11/26/13
> 
> to me
> Hello Bill,
> 
> Sorry to hear about the case. Let me have them send you out new clips. Can you tell me if both clips are not working or just one. Thanks
> 
> Please provide your address as well. Thanks
> 
> Sincerely,
> Phanteks USA


Quote:


> Bill W [email protected]
> 
> 11/26/13
> 
> to Phanteks
> It seems that neither clip is working. :/
> 
> My details are:
> 
> My case was ordered from Phanteks:
> Order #131xxx
> S/N: xxxx
> 
> xxxxxx
> Telephone: xxxx
> Email: [email protected]
> 
> Thank you


Quote:


> [email protected]
> 
> 12/2/13
> 
> to Phanteks
> Any more word about this?
> 
> Sorry to keep bothering you, but I'm looking at an otherwise beautiful case with all my new parts in it, and the front panel can't be put back on. Not sure what else to do.
> 
> Bill W


Quote:


> Phanteks RMA Support [email protected]
> 
> 12/2/13
> 
> to me
> Hello Bill,
> 
> No problem. We are sorry it was taking so long. We just receive some parts for it in. Sorry for the delay. I will have the tracking number to you tomorrow. Sorry again.
> 
> thanks,
> Phanteks


Quote:


> Phanteks RMA Support [email protected]
> 
> 12/3/13
> 
> to me
> Hello William,
> 
> Your clips have been shipped. Please allow a few days for the item to arrive. Thanks
> 
> Sincerely,
> Phanteks


Quote:


> [email protected]
> 
> 12/3/13
> 
> to Phanteks
> Thank you.
> 
> Are the clips easy to replace? I suppose I'll be able to figure it out.


Quote:


> Phanteks RMA Support [email protected]
> 
> 12/3/13
> 
> to me
> Hello Bill,
> 
> yes they are. If you remove the front panel you will be able to see the clips. you can us a flat head screwdriver to push in the two side that are sticking out. this will allow the clips to be push up and out of the slot.
> 
> Thanks,
> Support


The latches are junk imho - not strong enough for their intended use. They really ought to think about replacing them with a stronger version or else at least supply everyone a handful of extras in the accessories box that comes with the case.


----------



## simsim44

At the risk of sounding like a jerk..... Is/was that a holiday time for them?


----------



## paulyoung

I feel your pain mate, my first CS experience was great the catches came out within 10 days, but the 2nd time was worse and this being the 3rd time is bloody awful.

I'm waiting for yet again more catches a new fan hub, and a replacement front led strip, but after 4 weeks of waiting I sent them an email only to get this reply. " My colleagues are still checking for the correct needed parts to send out. You will be mailed as soon it has been shipped. Kindly ask your patience and understanding. " But what is to check ? we have back and forthed over 7 or 8 messages regarding these parts, and they have confirmed they are going to send them, so what needs to be checked.

I hope to god they sort it out soon as I'm sick of not being able to use what is a great case in design to it's full potential. The only let down is it's poor build quality on certain parts, and customer service that has gone rapidly down the hill since the cases first release.

It looks to me as if they are concentrating more on bringing new products to market, and not supporting the products they already have on sale. My first encounter with their CS was before any other new case was announced and was as smooth as silk. If that's the case ( pun intended ) thay are going to loose a lot of potential new customers, I was considering buying either the white EP or the Lux, but if their CS carries on the way it is going. Don't they realise that most enthusiasts considering CS very highly in purchases ?


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *simsim44*
> 
> At the risk of sounding like a jerk..... Is/was that a holiday time for them?


They sure had no problem exchanging emails during that time if they were 'on holiday'. It wasn't a holiday for me. If it was for them then they sure could/should have mentioned it.

They also said they were going to send me the latches twice and didn't follow through until after I replied back, giving me the impression I had fallen through the cracks each time.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Gunilla95*
> 
> Yes they do replace the plastic clips if they are borken.
> i got mine replaced and the big window )had a giant scratch at delivery)
> 
> they even sent 2 clips extra. So got a total of 4 clips! Just send them a mail and woala.
> Many here had that issue, especially at lanch! So thats more like a standard issue.
> 
> 
> 
> Hmmm, they didn't send me any extra latches, which is why I went out and spent more than $20 to buy extras myself.
> 
> . In fact. they made me go through a bunch of replies back and forth for more than a week before they even decided to go ahead and send me replacements. Almost every time I inquired about it or answered a question they had they failed to get back to me until I replied a second time a day or more later asking what's up.
> 
> It seems every one else has had a different experience with them than me but to tell the truth they really pissed me off and I have been *VERY disappointed in Phanteks support* over the whole experience. I hope I never have to deal with them again and seriously doubt that I'll ever buy another Phanteks product because of it.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Matter of fact, here's the email chain after I first contacted support on Nov 24 and it took many back and forths until they finally shipped out on Dec 3 and I didn't receive it until more than a week after that. The whole time, several weeks in all, I couldn't even put the front grill on my new case.
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Phanteks RMA Support [email protected]
> 
> 11/25/13
> 
> to me
> Hello William,
> 
> Thank you for contacting us!
> 
> Please try to click with just the clips without the front panel. You can use a screwdriver to push the clips in. If they lock then the clips are ok. if they don't click then the clips are broken. Sometimes it is easier to have the top door open while you are trying to lock the front panel on. This allows you to see how far you need to push both sides in till it locks. Please let me know how that works out for you. if the clips are broken we can send you the replacement clips. Sorry for the inconveniences.
> 
> thanks,
> Phanteks
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> On 11/24/2013 5:59 PM, [email protected] wrote:
> 
> Form details below.
> 
> Comments: I am the owner of an Enthoo Primo case bought through the Phanteks site, order #131011, and received exactly one month ago today.
> 
> Myu issue: The front filter cover will not click into place and stay there. There are two tabs on the filter cover which fit into push-click latches which are not functioning properly.
> 
> Please help. Thanks.
> Bill
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> 11/25/13
> 
> to Phanteks
> There is no click whatsoever and the clips just spring right back out even when pushed all the way in to where they stop and cannot be pushed in any further.
> 
> I hope this is something that can be pretty easily remedied. I really luv this case but haven't even begun to use it yet. It's still sitting here empty waiting on me to finish getting the parts I need to go in it. It was only my first time removing the front filter panel when I noticed it wouldn't click back into place.
> [email protected]
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> 11/26/13
> 
> to Phanteks
> Any word about this?
> 
> After all this time all I'm now lacking to finish my build is the 64GB memory kit which should be here today or tomorrow, and now the front dust filter panel won't stay on the case. :/
> 
> Thanks for any help you can provide.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Phanteks RMA Support [email protected]
> 
> 11/26/13
> 
> to me
> Hello Bill,
> 
> Sorry to hear about the case. Let me have them send you out new clips. Can you tell me if both clips are not working or just one. Thanks
> 
> Please provide your address as well. Thanks
> 
> Sincerely,
> Phanteks USA
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Bill W [email protected]
> 
> 11/26/13
> 
> to Phanteks
> It seems that neither clip is working. :/
> 
> My details are:
> 
> My case was ordered from Phanteks:
> Order #131xxx
> S/N: xxxx
> 
> xxxxxx
> Telephone: xxxx
> Email: [email protected]
> 
> Thank you
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> [email protected]
> 
> 12/2/13
> 
> to Phanteks
> Any more word about this?
> 
> Sorry to keep bothering you, but I'm looking at an otherwise beautiful case with all my new parts in it, and the front panel can't be put back on. Not sure what else to do.
> 
> Bill W
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Phanteks RMA Support [email protected]
> 
> 12/2/13
> 
> to me
> Hello Bill,
> 
> No problem. We are sorry it was taking so long. We just receive some parts for it in. Sorry for the delay. I will have the tracking number to you tomorrow. Sorry again.
> 
> thanks,
> Phanteks
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Phanteks RMA Support [email protected]
> 
> 12/3/13
> 
> to me
> Hello William,
> 
> Your clips have been shipped. Please allow a few days for the item to arrive. Thanks
> 
> Sincerely,
> Phanteks
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> [email protected]
> 
> 12/3/13
> 
> to Phanteks
> Thank you.
> 
> Are the clips easy to replace? I suppose I'll be able to figure it out.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Phanteks RMA Support [email protected]
> 
> 12/3/13
> 
> to me
> Hello Bill,
> 
> yes they are. If you remove the front panel you will be able to see the clips. you can us a flat head screwdriver to push in the two side that are sticking out. this will allow the clips to be push up and out of the slot.
> 
> Thanks,
> Support
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> The latches are junk imho - not strong enough for their intended use. They really ought to think about replacing them with a stronger version or else at least supply everyone a handful of extras in the accessories box that comes with the case
> 
> 
> .
Click to expand...

So it took 10 days to get sorted. The end result is they sent you replacements based on your word the latches were not working. That's better than all but a very few companies do.

Remind me to never sell you anything.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> So it took 10 days to get sorted. The end result is they sent you replacements based on your word the latches were not working. That's better than all but a very few companies do.
> 
> Remind me to never sell you anything.


10 days of back and forths where they kept asking for info I gave them in my first report. Made me feel like they didn't believe me or weren't going to take my word for it, and thern more than a day would pass with no reply from them. Once they left me hanging from a Tues until the next Monday with no reply until I had to email them again wondering what's happening.

All this was well after quite a few others here had had to go through them for the same failing latches so they had to know they have an issue with them already.

Honestly, that's the crummiest customer service I've ever had with any company ever.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paulyoung*
> 
> I feel your pain mate, my first CS experience was great the catches came out within 10 days, but the 2nd time was worse and this being the 3rd time is bloody awful.
> 
> I'm waiting for yet again more catches a new fan hub, and a replacement front led strip, but after 4 weeks of waiting I sent them an email only to get this reply. " My colleagues are still checking for the correct needed parts to send out. You will be mailed as soon it has been shipped. Kindly ask your patience and understanding. " But what is to check ? we have back and forthed over 7 or 8 messages regarding these parts, and they have confirmed they are going to send them, so what needs to be checked.
> 
> I hope to god they sort it out soon as I'm sick of not being able to use what is a great case in design to it's full potential. The only let down is it's poor build quality on certain parts, and customer service that has gone rapidly down the hill since the cases first release.
> 
> It looks to me as if they are concentrating more on bringing new products to market, and not supporting the products they already have on sale. My first encounter with their CS was before any other new case was announced and was as smooth as silk. If that's the case ( pun intended ) thay are going to loose a lot of potential new customers, I was considering buying either the white EP or the Lux, but if their CS carries on the way it is going. Don't they realise that most enthusiasts considering CS very highly in purchases ?


My guess is they do not have LED replacement strips in stock.

These push to latch / push to unlatch clips are easily broken if the cover is pulled open. When they are pushed in enough the unlatch and cover opens wih no effert. I suspect many have been broken becasue of the amount of pressure needed to unlatch them.









Not to sound harsh but someone asking me for replacement parts 3 times would have me wondering if they were taking advantage of me.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> 10 days of back and forths where they kept asking for info I gave them in my first report. Made me feel like they didn't believe me or weren't going to take my word for it, and thern more than a day would pass with no reply from them. Once they left me hanging from a Tues until the next Monday with no reply until I had to email them again wondering what's happening.
> 
> All this was well after quite a few others here had had to go through them for the same failing latches so they had to know they have an issue with them already.
> 
> Honestly, that's the crummiest customer service I've ever had with any company ever.


Tuesday the 26th to Monday the 2nd was over the Thanksgiving 4 day weekend.







Wenesday is only other work day for most business.. and even than many close early.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Tuesday the 26th to Monday the 2nd was over the Thanksgiving 4 day weekend.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wenesday is only other work day for most business.. and even than many close early.


Then they should have said so to me instead of leaving me hanging. He sends me an email on a Tuesday morning asking me a question to something I'd already made clear more than once, to which I reply less than 10 minutes after receiving it, and then I hear nothing back from him for 6 days straight until I make contact again asking about it. That's terrible customer service.

And I've never gotten Thanksgiving day off, much less multiple days for it. Don't personally know anyone who has. Everyone and I mean everyone I know who does get the day off has to go back on Friday after. Even public school is in on that Friday around here. Banks are open, etc. Customer service should be open for ANY business during that period or they should at least have a notice to customers about it. not leaving open cases hanging without knowing what's going on.


----------



## Gunilla95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Hmmm, they didn't send me any extra latches, which is why I went out and spent more than $20 to buy extras myself.
> 
> . In fact. they made me go through a bunch of replies back and forth for more than a week before they even decided to go ahead and send me replacements. Almost every time I inquired about it or answered a question they had they failed to get back to me until I replied a second time a day or more later asking what's up.
> 
> It seems every one else has had a different experience with them than me but to tell the truth they really pissed me off and I have been *VERY disappointed in Phanteks support* over the whole experience. I hope I never have to deal with them again and seriously doubt that I'll ever buy another Phanteks product because of it.
> 
> Matter of fact, here's the email chain after I first contacted support on Nov 24 and it took many back and forths until they finally shipped out on Dec 3 and I didn't receive it until more than a week after that. The whole time, several weeks in all, I couldn't even put the front grill on my new case.
> 
> The latches are junk imho - not strong enough for their intended use. They really ought to think about replacing them with a stronger version or else at least supply everyone a handful of extras in the accessories box that comes with the case.


Sound Terrible mate









well i was pretty pissed at them maybe they sent me 2 extra too cool me down or something.

In the mail i wrote something like:
Im a student i save month to buy high quality products like this and then they are GODAMN BROKE, that a part dosnt work okey. but scratches in the window. thats not quality!
maybe i go and buy a corsair 900D instead.

Well from there on everything went smooth


----------



## grifftech

I might just mod mine with some small neodymium magnets so I don't have to mess with the latches


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *grifftech*
> 
> I might just mod mine with some small neodymium magnets so I don't have to mess with the latches


Good idea. Please keep us informed if you do. Maybe make a tutorial of it?


----------



## CoopsTHC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *grifftech*
> 
> I LOVE that idea, I am going to find a nice bright blue to do mine in.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *simsim44*
> 
> that thought already crossed my mind, it was a short trip


The spray paint i used is called Kobra, they have lots of colours, it sticks well and dries within minutes.


----------



## simsim44

K-10081 looks like a winner.


----------



## simsim44

too bad I don't live in the UK


----------



## paulyoung

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> My guess is they do not have LED replacement strips in stock.
> 
> These push to latch / push to unlatch clips are easily broken if the cover is pulled open. When they are pushed in enough the unlatch and cover opens wih no effert. I suspect many have been broken becasue of the amount of pressure needed to unlatch them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not to sound harsh but someone asking me for replacement parts 3 times would have me wondering if they were taking advantage of me.


the case arrived with both front catches broken and the front panel loose in the box. As for them being easy to un latch,for some reason my front panel when fitted has no give to be able to be pushed in to un latch itself. Even when I try to push it on i have to hold each side with my thumbs and really push it hard. It is like the panel is hitting the case before being grabbed by the clip.

It is definately not a user fault as they have revised the catches. They are 1 of 2 things they have emended for the revision 2 case.

Iv'e told them I'm not concerned about the strip it's the catches I''m in need of, I can't understand how 4 weeks ago they agreed to send more, and now they are telling me they need to make sure they send the right parts. it took me 5 emails to get that reply.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> And I've never gotten Thanksgiving day off, much less multiple days for it. Don't personally know anyone who has. Everyone and I mean everyone I know who does get the day off has to go back on Friday after. Even public school is in on that Friday around here. Banks are open, etc. Customer service should be open for ANY business during that period or they should at least have a notice to customers about it. not leaving open cases hanging without knowing what's going on.


It's quite common in my neck of the woods, .....kind alike all the holidays being moved to Monday. With many transitioning to families being spread out all across the country due to job relocations, and retiring to the south, it's common for people to travel and visit family at a distance and the opportunity for a 4 day weekend makes it possible. It's one of the biggest travel periods of the year for the airline industry. Many employers have re=negotiated union contracts exchanging holidays like Columbus day for the Friday after Thanksgiving. Another common option is ya have a choice of election day of thanksgiving.

\\


----------



## D3L3T3D

Love this case waiting on the white version!!!


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paulyoung*
> 
> the case arrived with both front catches broken and the front panel loose in the box. As for them being easy to un latch,for some reason my front panel when fitted has no give to be able to be pushed in to un latch itself. _Even when I try *to push it on i have to hold each side with my thumbs and really push it hard*. It is like the panel is hitting the case before being grabbed by the clip._
> 
> It is definately not a user fault as they have revised the catches. They are 1 of 2 things they have emended for the revision 2 case.
> 
> Iv'e told them I'm not concerned about the strip it's the catches I''m in need of, I can't understand how 4 weeks ago they agreed to send more, and now they are telling me they need to make sure they send the right parts. it took me 5 emails to get that reply.


The same pressure it takes to get them latched is what it takes to get them un-latcheded.

Did they end up with the latches being too hard for many to use them? Yes they did.
Does everyone who tried to unlatch them know that they must push very hard to get them to unlatch? No they do not.
But that does not excuse users who break them by pulling them open.
Everyone needs to remember
_Push_ to latch
_Push_ to unlatch.
*Pulling will break them!*

The first time I unlatched mine I thought my thumbs would break before the latch released.


----------



## paulyoung

That's the problem the pressure you need to use is stupid. My case is on a wheeled riser, and the force I need to push, to either close or open the front panel moves the case, even with the wheels locked, it wants to slide.

I fully understand that you push to latch and to un-latch. And never once pulled them to open the panel so it doesn't need pointing out the way you just did, it came across patronising.

If there wasn't an issue with the catches why after only 2 weeks of being available did Phanteks themselves announce that they have revised the latching mechanism, due to high numbers requests for replacements.


----------



## Ouro

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *D3L3T3D*
> 
> Love this case waiting on the white version!!!


Welcome to the waiting list!

I've been waiting for an eternity (hyperbole) for this case to launch since its announcement.

In the end I may just end up with the black one since I can't find anything comparable to it for price and quality.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paulyoung*
> 
> That's the problem the pressure you need to use is stupid. My case is on a wheeled riser, and the force I need to push, to either close or open the front panel moves the case, even with the wheels locked, it wants to slide.
> 
> I fully understand that you push to latch and to un-latch. And never once pulled them to open the panel so it doesn't need pointing out the way you just did, it came across patronising.
> 
> If there wasn't an issue with the catches why after only 2 weeks of being available did Phanteks themselves announce that they have revised the latching mechanism, due to high numbers requests for replacements.


I'm sorry. I did not mean for it to offend you. I quoted you because you pointed out how hard we have to push.

What I posted was for everyone, especially new owners. I wanted everyone to know and hopefully avoid breaking them.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> I'm sorry. I did not mean for it to offend you. I quoted you because you pointed out how hard we have to push.
> 
> What I posted was for everyone, especially new owners. I wanted everyone to know and hopefully avoid breaking them.


Yeah my case the front grill arrived intact, but both push latches for the front filter grill stripped out the first time I went to remove the top panel of the case after removing the front panel first following the directions in the manual ...



In my experience if you don't remove the front filter grill first before following "Step 1" the filter grill will go flying out as soon as the front panel pops free, and the latches are ruined because they weren't pushed in first. Phanteks really should update the manual to say that the filter grill needs to be removed first to keep that from happening.


----------



## GhostFaceKeller

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> I'm sorry. I did not mean for it to offend you. I quoted you because you pointed out how hard we have to push.
> 
> What I posted was for everyone, especially new owners. I wanted everyone to know and hopefully avoid breaking them.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ouro*
> 
> Welcome to the waiting list!
> 
> I've been waiting for an eternity (hyperbole) for this case to launch since its announcement.
> 
> In the end I may just end up with the black one since I can't find anything comparable to it for price and quality.


Ouro - not sure if this helps (depending on where you live) but the white case has a delivery date of April 18 here in Australia.

Paul Young - Totally agree that the front latch thing is simply poor design. So many people have had issues with it. Im waiting on my new clips from Phanteks.

PS (and totally unrelated) but anyone know how to put the primo owners club thing in your signature?


----------



## xCloudyHorizon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Yeah my case the front grill arrived intact, but both push latches for the front filter grill stripped out the first time I went to remove the top panel of the case after removing the front panel first following the directions in the manual ...
> 
> 
> 
> In my experience if you don't remove the front filter grill first before following "Step 1" the filter grill will go flying out as soon as the front panel pops free, and the latches are ruined because they weren't pushed in first. Phanteks really should update the manual to say that the filter grill needs to be removed first to keep that from happening.


I think this really needs to be put into the OP to help prevent people from breaking the latches.


----------



## Ouro

@GhostFaceKeller I haven't found any pre-orders in the States. I do see that some European sites have an ETA for April though.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GhostFaceKeller*
> 
> Ouro - not sure if this helps (depending on where you live) but the white case has a delivery date of April 18 here in Australia.
> 
> Paul Young - Totally agree that the front latch thing is simply poor design. So many people have had issues with it. Im waiting on my new clips from Phanteks.
> 
> *PS (and totally unrelated) but anyone know how to put the primo owners club thing in your signature?*


Try this:

Code:



Code:


[center]:clock:[IMG ALT=""]http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/1870558/width/63/height/125[/IMG][URL=http://www.overclock.net/t/1418637/phanteks-enthoo-primo-owners-club][SIZE=2]Enthoo Primo[/SIZE] [I][SIZE=1]Owners Club[/I][/URL]:clock:[/center]


----------



## grifftech

Guys I think I have found a solution to the latch issue. This is the mod I am going to try after looking at the front filter panel and doing some googling.

1. I am going to remove the female latch portion that is causing all the trouble and keep the male portion just in case.

2. On either side of the face of the case where the front filter panel comes up against are 2 small recessed circular areas. They are about 3/8" in diameter and a about 1/8" deep.

3. The reason those recessed areas are there is to allow 2 screw heads to set in that are on the back side of the filter panel.

So my plan is this. I am ordering some 3/8" x 1/8" deep countersunk neodymium magnets, link here http://www.kjmagnetics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=R622CS-N. What I am going to do is use a 2 part epoxy to hold the magnets in the recessed area with the countersunk portion facing out

The magnets have a pull force of 3.56lbs and with the countersunk area allowing the head of the screw to set into I think that 3.56lbs of pull on each side of the panel will pull against the screw heads and hold the panel in nicely!!

I also have ordered some different sized disks that are 5/16th with different thicknesses in case I need to try something else. But I think the countersunk magnets should work.

Also if the magnets fit in the recessed area nice and tight I may not need the epoxy or if need be I can open up the diameter a bit with a drill bit.

I will post pics.

Thanks,
Griff


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GhostFaceKeller*
> 
> Totally agree that the front latch thing is simply poor design. So many people have had issues with it. Im waiting on my new clips from Phanteks.
> 
> PS (and totally unrelated) but anyone know how to put the primo owners club thing in your signature?


I don't think it is poor design as too tight a tolerance on the fit. They didn't want vibration to rattle the door, grill, filters and they ended up with latches being just a little too tight. We are talking about the thickness of a hair making the difference between the push working and being too tight.


----------



## GhostFaceKeller

That's a fair point for sure. IMO a strong magnet latch, similar to what is used on front the 5 1/4 inch bay door would have been a much better option. However I imagine there would be a reason they didn't go for that, as everything on the case is very well thought out.


----------



## Gunilla95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GhostFaceKeller*
> 
> That's a fair point for sure. IMO a strong magnet latch, similar to what is used on front the 5 1/4 inch bay door would have been a much better option. However I imagine there would be a reason they didn't go for that, as everything on the case is very well thought out.


¨

Maybe they didn't go for magnets becouse they can come loose if you have the case in for example the car and drive around, and then maybe breake something like the fans behind. The door is still attached to the case when the magnet comes of.


----------



## Branish

The easiest way I found to remove the front dust filter intake panel is to remove the bottom 5.25" slot cover and hook your fingers in behind the panel, then push with your thumbs. This is annoying though and if something is installed in the slot then obviously it won't work.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> The same pressure it takes to get them latched is what it takes to get them un-latcheded.
> 
> The first time I unlatched mine I thought my thumbs would break before the latch released.


I find it much easier to remove the front panel and THEN have my thumbs push from the front and rest of fingers from the back.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paulyoung*
> 
> That's the problem the pressure you need to use is stupid. My case is on a wheeled riser, and the force I need to push, to either close or open the front panel moves the case, even with the wheels locked, it wants to slide.
> 
> I fully understand that you push to latch and to un-latch. And never once pulled them to open the panel so it doesn't need pointing out the way you just did, it came across patronising.
> 
> If there wasn't an issue with the catches why after only 2 weeks of being available did Phanteks themselves announce that they have revised the latching mechanism, due to high numbers requests for replacements.


Ya have to realize that many people gave up pushing in frustration thinking it couldn't possibly be that hard to remove .....was tempted myself and I did do a little twisting action, shifting left and right pressure and even a slight pull thinking something might be stuck behind it preventing it from going in. I finally did get it off by taking the front panel off and squeezing from both sides but I couldn't get it to go back on. I have to be honest and say some of my preceding actions may have contributed to it breaking.

I think, as a manufacturer, you have to think about what we have read about here a lot over the years with overclocked (and even delidded) CPUs, water cooled GFX cards, modded water pumps and the like ..... where some peeps will say "Yes, it technically voids the warranty but they won't know if ya don't tell them". I am sure that there's a wide spectrum of user experiences out their from peeps who had it broken in the case when it arrives thanks to the FedEx gorillas to peeps who just yanked it off. I admit, my attempts to get it off may have contributed to the failure.

I don't recall the issue being formally addressed with an announcement of a replacement within 2 weeks..... I woulda said 6 to 8 weeks or more. It took about week after it was available for peeps even to receive them and provide any feedback ..... I can't see them developing, testing a fix and announcing a fix within a week. I think we have to remember we are dealing with a global organization .....

Fabricated in China, probably thru an office in Taiwan by with a Dutch Design Team and a NA office in California. Before any formal announcements, and the potential financial obligation associated therewith, any resolution has to be designed, fabricated, tested, cost analysis prepared by the bean counters, reviewed by the actuaries, approved by the legal sharks and all the big wigs gotta sign off.... With the folks at Phanteks USA having to wait for all the communications between all those teams on two continents half a world away, that's gonna take some time.

I also think Phanteks got caught in some other logistics issues being a "newbie" in the case field. The logistics of delivering a case to word markets, especially a 40+ pound case, must present some logistics issues that taught a few lessons to a team whose experience to date encompassed shipping coolers with just a handful of mounting options in boxes the size of 6" cubes to thousands of component options and causing UPS drivers to complain about back strain







.

I think they did an outstanding job on their 'fist case" and, it being the first with as many innovations as it has, there was bound to be some bugaboos. However, From reading the stories here on OCN on how long it takes us here in the US to get a Pump RMA from Swiftech or WB replacement from EK, I think we do pretty good with 2 weeks. I do have to say that I have been shipped various parts, the clippies being the only broken ones, and they all arrived in a 3 - 6 days.

Sure I would like to get everything done "in a matter of days" but this seems to be the norm with global companies. I have always had good experiences with Asus, (especially since on most of the ones I own, they qualify for the "they ship the replacement before ya have to send broken one back" service) but last year it took from before Halloween to after New Year's to "get 'er done". Problem was their system didn't know how to handle an RMA on an RMA (replacement board was warped).

Overall, given my previous experience with global companies, I'd have to give Phantek's a B+

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GhostFaceKeller*
> 
> That's a fair point for sure. IMO a strong magnet latch, similar to what is used on front the 5 1/4 inch bay door would have been a much better option. However I imagine there would be a reason they didn't go for that, as everything on the case is very well thought out.


I have a "Suggestions for version 2" list somewhere on my HD .....will have to dig it out.

The front panel gets most of my attention tho.....

1. The top door I would like to have a similar cutout so that the user could choose between:

a) Solid panel insert like we have now but simlar to area below where it's a panel within a frame
b) Vented insert so we could use and air intake / exhaust
c) Acrylic insert o match side panel, so I could read my temps w/o opening door.

2. The bottom panel is a quandry as cleaning that filter is a chore on the initial cases..... reportedly addressed in the 1.1 version. I think they probably thought of a hinge but I can see a potential disaster when moving the case as when shifting ya grip to turn it ya wound up with the door swinging open and the entire 80 pound weight of the case resting on the two hinges. Again, I'd like to see the same options as above.

Coulda made the top door a little longer and used it to cover a thumbscrew at the top.


----------



## JayBeeCee

Hi,

I am about to put everything into my case. Right now I am wondering how to manage the air flow. I've seen a lot of builds with the bottom rad blowing air OUT of the case. Isn't this working agains an chimney effect? If I do so, i would only have the two front fans blowing air into the case, the back fan and the three fans on top are blowing air out as well. Any suggestions?


----------



## chrisnyc75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JayBeeCee*
> 
> Hi,
> 
> I am about to put everything into my case. Right now I am wondering how to manage the air flow. I've seen a lot of builds with the bottom rad blowing air OUT of the case. Isn't this working agains an chimney effect? If I do so, i would only have the two front fans blowing air into the case, the back fan and the three fans on top are blowing air out as well. Any suggestions?


All fans on top, bottom, & front should be INTAKE. Rear fan is exhaust.

The "chimney effect" doesn't come into play when you have fans forcing air movement; the air will go where you tell it to. Keeping positive pressure (more intake than exhaust) is the best way to keep dust out and cool air moving through your system.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> The same pressure it takes to get them latched is what it takes to get them un-latcheded.
> 
> The first time I unlatched mine I thought my thumbs would break before the latch released.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I find it much easier to remove the front panel and THEN have my thumbs push from the front and rest of fingers from the back.
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *paulyoung*
> 
> That's the problem the pressure you need to use is stupid. My case is on a wheeled riser, and the force I need to push, to either close or open the front panel moves the case, even with the wheels locked, it wants to slide.
> 
> I fully understand that you push to latch and to un-latch. And never once pulled them to open the panel so it doesn't need pointing out the way you just did, it came across patronising.
> 
> If there wasn't an issue with the catches why after only 2 weeks of being available did Phanteks themselves announce that they have revised the latching mechanism, due to high numbers requests for replacements.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Ya have to realize that many people gave up pushing in frustration thinking it couldn't possibly be that hard to remove .....was tempted myself and I did do a little twisting action, shifting left and right pressure and even a slight pull thinking something might be stuck behind it preventing it from going in. I finally did get it off by taking the front panel off and squeezing from both sides but I couldn't get it to go back on. I have to be honest and say some of my preceding actions may have contributed to it breaking.
> 
> I think, as a manufacturer, you have to think about what we have read about here a lot over the years with overclocked (and even delidded) CPUs, water cooled GFX cards, modded water pumps and the like ..... where some peeps will say "Yes, it technically voids the warranty but they won't know if ya don't tell them". I am sure that there's a wide spectrum of user experiences out their from peeps who had it broken in the case when it arrives thanks to the FedEx gorillas to peeps who just yanked it off. I admit, my attempts to get it off may have contributed to the failure.
> 
> I don't recall the issue being formally addressed with an announcement of a replacement within 2 weeks..... I woulda said 6 to 8 weeks or more. It took about week after it was available for peeps even to receive them and provide any feedback ..... I can't see them developing, testing a fix and announcing a fix within a week. I think we have to remember we are dealing with a global organization .....
> 
> Fabricated in China, probably thru an office in Taiwan by with a Dutch Design Team and a NA office in California. Before any formal announcements, and the potential financial obligation associated therewith, any resolution has to be designed, fabricated, tested, cost analysis prepared by the bean counters, reviewed by the actuaries, approved by the legal sharks and all the big wigs gotta sign off.... With the folks at Phanteks USA having to wait for all the communications between all those teams on two continents half a world away, that's gonna take some time.
> 
> I also think Phanteks got caught in some other logistics issues being a "newbie" in the case field. The logistics of delivering a case to word markets, especially a 40+ pound case, must present some logistics issues that taught a few lessons to a team whose experience to date encompassed shipping coolers with just a handful of mounting options in boxes the size of 6" cubes to thousands of component options and causing UPS drivers to complain about back strain
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> I think they did an outstanding job on their 'fist case" and, it being the first with as many innovations as it has, there was bound to be some bugaboos. However, From reading the stories here on OCN on how long it takes us here in the US to get a Pump RMA from Swiftech or WB replacement from EK, I think we do pretty good with 2 weeks. I do have to say that I have been shipped various parts, the clippies being the only broken ones, and they all arrived in a 3 - 6 days.
> 
> Sure I would like to get everything done "in a matter of days" but this seems to be the norm with global companies. I have always had good experiences with Asus, (especially since on most of the ones I own, they qualify for the "they ship the replacement before ya have to send broken one back" service) but last year it took from before Halloween to after New Year's to "get 'er done". Problem was their system didn't know how to handle an RMA on an RMA (replacement board was warped).
> 
> Overall, given my previous experience with global companies, I'd have to give Phantek's a B+
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *GhostFaceKeller*
> 
> That's a fair point for sure. IMO a strong magnet latch, similar to what is used on front the 5 1/4 inch bay door would have been a much better option. However I imagine there would be a reason they didn't go for that, as everything on the case is very well thought out.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I have a "Suggestions for version 2" list somewhere on my HD .....will have to dig it out.
> 
> The front panel gets most of my attention tho.....
> 
> 1. The top door I would like to have a similar cutout so that the user could choose between:
> 
> a) Solid panel insert like we have now but simlar to area below where it's a panel within a frame
> b) Vented insert so we could use and air intake / exhaust
> c) Acrylic insert o match side panel, so I could read my temps w/o opening door.
> 
> 2. The bottom panel is a quandry as cleaning that filter is a chore on the initial cases..... reportedly addressed in the 1.1 version. I think they probably thought of a hinge but I can see a potential disaster when moving the case as when shifting ya grip to turn it ya wound up with the door swinging open and the entire 80 pound weight of the case resting on the two hinges. Again, I'd like to see the same options as above.
> 
> Coulda made the top door a little longer and used it to cover a thumbscrew at the top.
Click to expand...

Ain't 20/20 hindsight great?









Was just having a play with mine. The case crossbar is flexing. When we apply pressure from both sides and squeeze there is no flex and the release / latch easier.

I applied a small dob of Super Glue on to tip of the latch tab / arrow on the cover, used some activator to harden it. That got me about half way to the latches working easy.. Tried another dob to add a little more length and now its too much. Need to file it down some or file the back of arrow bits.. don't want to do that.

How are the push latches removed from case? I'm wondering if they could be modified too. If they had put the latches near the corners instead of near the middle I don't think there would be a problem.


----------



## JayBeeCee

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chrisnyc75*
> 
> All fans on top, bottom, & front should be INTAKE. Rear fan is exhaust.
> 
> The "chimney effect" doesn't come into play when you have fans forcing air movement; the air will go where you tell it to. Keeping positive pressure (more intake than exhaust) is the best way to keep dust out and cool air moving through your system.


But isn't fresh air blowing into the case bringing dust as wall? I thought the other way around, that exhausting fans would keep dust out of the case... I am sorry but now I am confused =)


----------



## chrisnyc75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JayBeeCee*
> 
> But isn't fresh air blowing into the case bringing dust as wall? I thought the other way around, that exhausting fans would keep dust out of the case... I am sorry but now I am confused =)


No, because every fan should have a dust filter keeping the air you're pulling into the case clean. If every fan is intake, and every intake is filtered, then any UNfiltered crack and crevice will act as a way for the positive air pressure inside the case to get out -- meaning no dust gets in.

And don't worry about the pressure build up inside the case. It's not airtight, there are plenty of nooks and crannies for air to get out, just keep pulling cool air IN and the rest will take care of itself.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JayBeeCee*
> 
> But isn't fresh air blowing into the case bringing dust as wall? I thought the other way around, that exhausting fans would keep dust out of the case... I am sorry but now I am confused =)


if all the intakes are filtered, and you have more filtered air being forced into the case than air being pulled from the case, then you have what's called positive pressure inside your case and every unfiltered location becomes an exhaust (a place where the filtered intake air can escape).

_What is positive air pressure?: How does positive and negative pressure affect airflow in a chassis?_
http://www.silverstonetek.com/techtalk_cont.php?tid=wh_positive


----------



## Phantatsy

I haven't seen the release date for the white one, does anyone have a confirmed date yet?


----------



## Seid Dark

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phantatsy*
> 
> I haven't seen the release date for the white one, does anyone have a confirmed date yet?


Most stores don't have ETA for it at all and some others have date at the end of April / early May







I think Phanteks launched the white one way too early, it's been four months now and case still isn't in stock anywhere. There's isn't any reviews either, just some short Youtube videos. I'm very disappointed.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GhostFaceKeller*
> 
> That's a fair point for sure. IMO a strong magnet latch, similar to what is used on front the 5 1/4 inch bay door would have been a much better option. However I imagine there would be a reason they didn't go for that, as everything on the case is very well thought out.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JayBeeCee*
> 
> Hi,
> 
> I am about to put everything into my case. Right now I am wondering how to manage the air flow. I've seen a lot of builds with the bottom rad blowing air OUT of the case. Isn't this working agains an chimney effect? If I do so, i would only have the two front fans blowing air into the case, the back fan and the three fans on top are blowing air out as well. Any suggestions?


All radiator fans blowing in .... front fans blowing in ..... rear fan blowing out ..... if ya have fans on side panel (right), that one I am up in the air (pun intended) on. On one hand, would rather have more than one fan blowing out....on other hand, it will likely just suck out the intake air from front fans.

The case grilles provide adequate area for all air blow in to get out.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JayBeeCee*
> 
> But isn't fresh air blowing into the case bringing dust as wall? I thought the other way around, that exhausting fans would keep dust out of the case... I am sorry but now I am confused =)


Positive air pressure is not the "key" in fact it's really meaningless in the sense that positive air pressure works without inlet filters on the fan inlets accomplishes nothing. It works only because all the inlet fans generally have filters, at least on quality cases. If the filters weren't there, and on the Phanteks Enthoo they are, then yes you would be correct.... dust would be uninhibited and have a clear pathway inside your case.

With the inlet fans filtering all air coming into the case, dust has a harder time getting in.....(so does the air for that matter as it presents a very significant pressure drop across the filter.....my Deta T (Ambient air to coolant) goes up 50%, from 8.4 with no filters to 12.8C with filters).

From a case construction standpoint, putting filters on the inlet fans is much easier and practical than depending on negative case pressure and sealing all the grille openings......fans are of a consistent size whereas grilles take numerous shapes and sizes. Sometimes much is made of panel seams and drive bays but smoke testing shows this not to be a significant contributor on all but the low budget cases. The spaces framing the filters are oft themselves comparable in area to such spaces around drive bays.

So yes, unless doing some significant modding, adding filters to all grilles and gasketing any open seams, maintaining positive pressure in a case is a very worthwhile step to undertake. I have been running with both my side panels off for 5 months now and still can barely notice a finger drawn across the GPU backplate. At least in my home environment, right now once I get my sleeving done and put on the side panels, I'm leaning towards removing even the front filter (bottom and top already removed). I sometimes find dust bunnies on the steps that scare my cat, but for whatever reason, the corner of my office remains relatively dust free. So "your mileage will vary" depending upon your particular environment.

There are other issues worth considering with regard to positive air pressure one being that other fans exhausting air (think GFX cards) can get drawn right back in. Well for that matter, then looking at our argument for rad cooling always pulling in outside cooler air, why don't GFX cards employ this logic and suck outside cool air into the card and exhaust into case ? But this particular example becomes irrelevant with water cooled cards.

Another issue ya might think about, and this is something I will probably do is install a gasket around the PSU intake fan. With 14 fans blowing in and just 1 blowing out, I'm sure a significant part of the PSUs intake air is coming from inside the case. A few pieces of self adhesive foam will solve that problem. My case air temp sensor won't fit on the air intake location but I have some thermistors for the Reeven Six Eyes I can use.


----------



## 1rad3

Hi, I'm considering the case for a new build, the radiator support is amazing. Two questions though:
1. could a 480 rad be fitted in the bottom with the fittings on the front (case)fan side?
and
2. can 2 D5s with the ek dual top fit on the pump mounting bracket in the psu compartment? Or using 2 pumps means having to go with a bayres?
Thanks!


----------



## bond32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *1rad3*
> 
> Hi, I'm considering the case for a new build, the radiator support is amazing. Two questions though:
> 1. could a 480 rad be fitted in the bottom with the fittings on the front (case)fan side?
> and
> 2. can 2 D5s with the ek dual top fit on the pump mounting bracket in the psu compartment? Or using 2 pumps means having to go with a bayres?
> Thanks!


Yes to the first question, although some of the slightly wider radiators won't fit in the bottom at all. I personally have an XSPC EX480 and the fittings fit either at the front or back just fine. In fact if you're interested, I am looking to sell mine. Shoot me a PM if you're interested.


----------



## chino1974

Hey guys here's alil more progress. Still along way to go but it's getting there. Still waiting to recieve the fan hub and led fan replacements.


----------



## paulyoung

Quote:
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chino1974*
> 
> Hey guys here's alil more progress. Still along way to go but it's getting there. Still waiting to recieve the fan hub and led fan replacements.
> 
> I'm waiting for the exact replacement parts mate, out of curiousity how long have you been waiting, and what replies if any have you had ?


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *1rad3*
> 
> Hi, I'm considering the case for a new build, the radiator support is amazing. Two questions though:
> 1. could a 480 rad be fitted in the bottom with the fittings on the front (case)fan side?
> and
> 2. can 2 D5s with the ek dual top fit on the pump mounting bracket in the psu compartment? Or using 2 pumps means having to go with a bayres?
> Thanks!


Not likely about the dual top on the mounting bracket. You might be able to fit but it would be a very tight fit and will involve getting rid of the mounting bracket and using the rubber feet thing from the dual top to place it there.

Mine two cents are: stay away from the EK dual top. I got it, mounted it and looked great on the drive bay, very silent but leaked very badly all over the junction of the top and bottom delrin. And yes, it was a perfect mount by the book. After dissembling and replacing with two individual tops I notice that the o-rings are not of the proper size and there is some (like 1 mm) slack on its fit on the pump/top. Right now I am in contact with Geoff and FZCPU to either get a refund or a credit on it. Let's see what EK says about it. I think someone also mention here hearing scaring stories about the dual top. I would like to hear more about that too. Is funny because I have the reservoir/pump d5 top and two d5 single tops and all are perfect, although the reservoir/top combos seems more silent that the single tops.


----------



## ocCuS

I finally got an answer from Phanteks via Message in Facebook about the release of the white Primo, for those who are waiting like me:
Quote:


> Phanteks
> Hello,
> Thank you for contacting us. We are sorry for the inconveniences, but the White Enthoo Primo will be release around end of April. Exact dates are not release yet but we will be updating when we are sure of that date. Sorry again, please check our websites for future updates. Thank you
> Sincerely,
> Phanteks


So it´s official that the white Primo will be released at the end of April (or begin of May) and not like Brian from phanteks posted here or in the phanteks forum now at the end of March.

So, let´s wait another month


----------



## owcraftsman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chino1974*
> 
> Hey guys here's alil more progress. Still along way to go but it's getting there. Still waiting to recieve the fan hub and led fan replacements.


Nice clean build Chino looking good. I may well switch back to front bay res/pump combo for performance but you loose the bling with it behind a closed door. There are to many 90 degree fittings to make my 250mm tube res/pump combo work which has a flow restriction penalty.

I'm still waiting on side panel glass and an extra fan hub. Its been 3 months now. I was told mid to late March. Now it would appear that has been moved forward again based on availability of the white enthoo primo. I suspect they are waiting on a container to clear customs or at least that's my hope otherwise we were lied to.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *1rad3*
> 
> Hi, I'm considering the case for a new build, the radiator support is amazing. Two questions though:
> 1. could a 480 rad be fitted in the bottom with the fittings on the front (case)fan side?
> and
> 2. can 2 D5s with the ek dual top fit on the pump mounting bracket in the psu compartment? Or using 2 pumps means having to go with a bayres?
> Thanks!


An Alphacool 480 Monsta is a common selection for the bottom ....and one worth considering if you have 3 or 4 GFX cards. Systems are generally categorized as follows:

Extreme < 10C
High End 10C
Mid-range 20C
Entry level 30C

For Haswell builds (OC'd to say 4.6) and w/ twin 780 Tis (+25% OC), a 45mm 420 on top and 60mm 280 on bottom is capable of providing the Delta T of 10C typically sought after with even 1200 rpm fans. A 60mm will fit on top also but, depending on MoBo choice, may block access to some MoBo features which require pull fans to be removed. A Monsta (86mm) fits on bottom but it blocks teh cable pass through grommet which ya may want for ya bottom fans.

As for the pump, I went with the Swiftech 35x2 based upon the review at Martinsliquidlab .... it has an optional heat sink, stand and fan which makes the whole thing almost as big as a bay res. Though at full speed a 3rx can be louder than a D5, I wanted a bit more oomph and since I never break about 50% of speed, the pump runs dead silent. I mounted the pump under the top HD cage (removed the bottom cage) relocating the pump mount to it's alternate location. I actually used two of the rubber coated plates, having obtained one from a fellow OCN member. Of course that wouldn't be possible with a 480 down there, perhaps a 360.....certainly no need to go with a bay res.



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ocCuS*
> 
> So it´s official that the white Primo will be released at the end of April (or begin of May) and not like Brian from phanteks posted here or in the phanteks forum now at the end of March.(


The January release dates for the accessories was official too







..... as were the various original release dates for the black enthoo and most recently the white one.

Design .... fabrication ..... testing ..... redesign ..... fabrication .... retesting ..... review .... final production .... packaging .... shipping .... customs..... one bump along the way and all the remaining steps get pushed back.


----------



## JayBeeCee

Hi,

thanks for your answers about airflow! I gonna give that positiv pressure a try =)
And I have another question =)
To the people, not using a fan controller: How do you manage a suitable fan control? I was about to put all my fans on this PWM Converter that came with the case and connect it with the PWM CPU Fan plug on my mainboard (Gigabyte Z68X UD4 B3). But I am not sure if thats a good idea because then I only control the fans on the basis of the CPU temp. So I thought about splitting the bot 480 rad and the top 420 rad fans and let only the bot fans connected to the PWM converter. This means i would connect the top rad fans to another slot of the main board and try to control those fans on basis of the GFX card. Does anyone have a better idea? Or suggestions?
Thx!

JBC


----------



## chrisnyc75

Letting the cpu pwm control the fans is fine. With custom watercooling your graphics cards will never get hot enough to require ramping up the fans while the cpu is still too cool to do so.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chrisnyc75*
> 
> Letting the cpu pwm control the fans is fine. With custom watercooling your graphics cards will never get hot enough to require ramping up the fans while the cpu is still too cool to do so.


Having that discussion now with Pepe.....

http://www.overclock.net/t/1473352/pwm-related-fan-control-question/10#post_22011107

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JayBeeCee*
> 
> Hi,
> To the people, not using a fan controller: How do you manage a suitable fan control? I was about to put all my fans on this PWM Converter that came with the case and connect it with the PWM CPU Fan plug on my mainboard (Gigabyte Z68X UD4 B3). But I am not sure if thats a good idea because then I only control the fans on the basis of the CPU temp. So I thought about splitting the bot 480 rad and the top 420 rad fans and let only the bot fans connected to the PWM converter. This means i would connect the top rad fans to another slot of the main board and try to control those fans on basis of the GFX card. Does anyone have a better idea? Or suggestions?


Using PWM control via feed from CPU header has one advantage....you can use more than 8 Phanteks fans on it since you can use the PSU Molex to add power. The math says I prolly shouldn't use more than 6 (6 x 0.14) = 0.84 watts in 1 amp header. But when i first connected them i had forgotten that 2 of the feeds had splitters so my 6 connections were 8 fans and it didn't blow up... your mileage may vary.

Here's my plan once I can get my hands on a 3rd Fan Control PCB

CPU Header => Pump No. 1 (PWM)
CPU-OPT Header => Pump No. 2 (PWM)

CHA_1 Header => PCB 1 => 5 Case Fans (VV)
CHA_2 Header => PCB 2 => 6 Fans on top XT45-420 (VV)
CHA_3 Header => PCB 3 => 4 Fans on bit UT60-280 (VV)

In Asus FanXpert2, I have 4 fans curves set up labeled

"CPU fan" - This curve controls the Swiftech 35x2 Pump(s) .... Unfortunately I can not relabel this "35X2 Pump"
"Chassis Fans" - This curve controls the 5 case fans (2 front, 1 rear, 2 side panel)
"UT60-280 Fans" - This curve controls the 4 fans (2 push, 2 pull)
"XT45-420 Fans" - This curve controls the 4 fans (3 push, 3 pull)

Right now, until I get the 3rd PCB, I have all 5 push fans on the UT60 curve, once it's available will add the PCB and switch around. There are 3 PCB mounts..... one beneath the one that came with case and one at top near the 5.25" drive bays.

Controlling the fans based upon GFX card temps won't accomplish anything .... no matter what is going on your GFX temps will not get within 35-40C of being anything to worry about. Controlling based upon water temps seems most logical but ill serves during CPU stress testing as coolant temps rise only about 2C above idle under P95 (with a system designed for 2 hi end GFX cards, the CPUs heat load to the system is puny so even at max OC, it hardly affects coolant temps.

Controlling based upon CPU temps covers all ya worries as ya GPU temps will never exceed ya CPU temps and GPU temps will never get above 50C .... no where neat the 80+C where you would even start to worry. There's a more detailed response in the thread I linked to above.


----------



## chrisnyc75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> Having that discussion now with Pepe.....
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1473352/pwm-related-fan-control-question/10#post_22011107


Yeah, I mean you *could* try to split the fan control or modulate some of them based on gpu temp, but i don't see why you'd want to. GPUs dont generate anywhere near as much heat as a cpu, so with even the most minimal fan speed to keep your cpu cool under low-level activity will adequately cool your GPUs. And in the rare event that your GPUs actually do heat up enough to require more fan speed to keep them cool (running Furmark or something, I guess) the heat generated will also cause your cpu to get slightly warmer because the water will be more saturated with heat when it gets to the gpu, so the fans will, again, ramp up on their own based on CPU pwm.

That's just my 2 cents, though. I'm sure you could get way WAY more ocd about it if you really wanted to, it's just not something I've ever seen any reason to worry about.







Even in heavy gaming, my GPUs never break 40c and that's with the fans operating at ~800rpm just off cpu pwm control.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chrisnyc75*
> 
> Yeah, I mean you *could* try to split the fan control or modulate some of them based on gpu temp, but i don't see why you'd want to. *GPUs dont generate anywhere near as much heat as a cpu*, so with even the most minimal fan speed to keep your cpu cool under low-level activity will adequately cool your GPUs. And in the rare event that your GPUs actually do heat up enough to require more fan speed to keep them cool (running Furmark or something, I guess) the heat generated will also cause your cpu to get slightly warmer because the water will be more saturated with heat when it gets to the gpu, so the fans will, again, ramp up on their own based on CPU pwm.
> 
> That's just my 2 cents, though. I'm sure you could get way WAY more ocd about it if you really wanted to, it's just not something I've ever seen any reason to worry about.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Even in heavy gaming, my GPUs never break 40c and that's with the fans operating at ~800rpm just off cpu pwm control.


Depends on the GPU. For example, R9 290x cards will easily topple 90C on air. I've seen them hit 100C playing BF4 and they are soooo ridiculously loud I have to think they were designed to be put underwater. If I was running those cards in my loop I'd hate to think that they would have to raise the loop temps so much as to raise my CPU temp enough to cause the PWM to ramp up my fan speeds. That's crazy. You'd be MUCH better off to use a fan controller set to auto control fan speeds based on loop temps.


----------



## chrisnyc75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Depends on the GPU. For example, R9 290x cards will easily topple 90C on air. I've seen them hit 100C playing BF4 and they are soooo ridiculously loud I have to think they were designed to be put underwater. If I was running those cards in my loop I'd hate to think that they would have to raise the loop temps so much as to raise my CPU temp enough to cause the PWM to ramp up my fan speeds. That's crazy. You'd be MUCH better off to use a fan controller set to auto control fan speeds based on loop temps.


True, but even the hottest gpu doesn't actually generate half as much heat as a basic cpu. They GET hotter because the gpu cooling solutions we have available to us are all basically crap. If you were to remove all cooling solutions, you could run a GPU for a minute or two before it would melt down. A cpu, even a very low end basic one, would melt down instantly. CPUs just generate WAY more heat than a gpu does. Inserted into a moderately-competent custom loop, even a R9 shouldn't get hot enough to require individual control, because even the most basic loop capable of keeping a cpu cool will do a MORE than adequate job keeping a GPU cool.

But again, I'm just looking at it from the perspective of "it really doesn't matter". If you really wanted to dig into it for maximum loop efficiency, you certainly could parse the details and go with a rambus controller, loop temperature sensor, etc. I just don't think doing so is really going to make much difference in the ultimate result.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chrisnyc75*
> 
> True, but even the hottest gpu doesn't actually generate half as much heat as a basic cpu. They GET hotter because the gpu cooling solutions we have available to us are all basically crap. If you were to remove all cooling solutions, you could run a GPU for a minute or two before it would melt down. A cpu, even a very low end basic one, would melt down instantly. CPUs just generate WAY more heat than a gpu does. Inserted into a moderately-competent custom loop, even a R9 shouldn't get hot enough to require individual control, because even the most basic loop capable of keeping a cpu cool will do a MORE than adequate job keeping a GPU cool.
> 
> But again, I'm just looking at it from the perspective of "it really doesn't matter". If you really wanted to dig into it for maximum loop efficiency, you certainly could parse the details and go with a rambus controller, loop temperature sensor, etc. I just don't think doing so is really going to make much difference in the ultimate result.


I agree that the argument changes if ya have a low to moderate range GPU but does anyone put those under water ?.... I don't see a lot of blocks available for all but the top 3 cards in a series. If budget limited, before dishing out the cash for WC, I certainly would be, say:

Investing in a 780 instead of a 760
Getting two 780s instead of a one

Simply put, for a GPU to get down to comparable heat output as a CPU, I simply can't see any value in putting a 130 watt GPU under water.

I think the GPU cooling we have is amazing ..... not that it is a result of superb design or anything..... it doesn't need to be. The massive GPU block outperforms the CPU blocks simply because if sheer size. It keeps 300 watts of heat at 40C (more than 40C of where'd I'd start to worry) .... the CPU block struggles to stay in mid 70s at 130 watts ...within 10C (20C in gaming) of where I 'd start to worry.

Because of the GPU WB being so massive, we see drastic drops in temps under water....something we don't see with CPUs. CPUs are held back by the small die size.....double their dimensions and we'd have 4 times the surface area from which to pull heat. I ran OCCT on the stock cooler and it shut down within cupla minutes as it exceeded the utility's alarm, setting of 85C .....but I can hit 84C under P95 at stock speeds with the supremacy and 700mm of rad. I am unable to create any circumstance where my GPU temps ever exceed my CPU temps.

If ya wanna see the failing of speed control based upon coolant temps.... just run P95....with voltage up at 1.28 under adaptive at stock multiplier, my coolant temp is about 2 C over idle and max core temp hits 84C with fans at 50% speed ..... I get down to 76C at 90% speed.

So to stay at 76ish under P95, I'd wanna have fan speeds at 90% at a coolant temp of about 25C.
I do not want my fans well above audible range at 90% when gaming .... with GPUs at 40C, CPU at 65C and coolant at 30C quiet is way more important that cooler temps merely for the sake of cooler temps...... there's simply nothing to be concerned about at those temps so I'll take the quiet.

Those two conditions are mutually exclusive.


----------



## chrisnyc75

No, I think you're misunderstanding my point....

A GPU does not produce as much heat as a CPU - it doesn't matter what level GPU we're talking about, they just don't produce as much heat as fast as a CPU. That is not to say they don't GET AS HOT as a cpu; there's a difference between "produce as much heat" and "get as hot". The former refers to the raw output of temperature; the latter refers to the net effect of that output of temperature given the installed cooling solution. The reason we see GPUs get upwards of 90c is that the cooling solutions on graphics cards simply are not anywhere near as efficient as CPU cooling solutions. And this is a direct result of the fact that the GPU doesn't NEED cooling that effective, because they don't produce as much heat (and the fact that the physical design & placement of graphics cards leaves us with few options for bigger/better air cooling solutions). If you were able to somehow put a tower heatsink and cpu cooling fans on a gpu, you would likely see temperatures similar to what we see on a gpu under water.

The surface area of gpu waterblocks is irrelevant -- the only reason they have more surface area is for "full coverage" cooling of the dram and vregs. A basic "universal" waterblock is the same size as a cpu waterblock (slightly larger since the gpu chip is larger). They're more efficient at cooling the GPU because it simply produces less heat, and that lower heat production is more efficiently cooled by even moderate watercooling (which is obviously way beyond what even high end air can do here). This becomes immediately evident when you see performance benchmarks testing old model H50 or H60 watercooling units applied to a graphics card. With old tech, minimal rad space, and very basic cooling capacity we see temperatures kept at about the same level as they are with high end custom watercooling. Again, they're not actually producing very much heat, so even very basic cooling performs more than adequately.

All of which brings me back to my point that ANY watercooling, with even minimal fan speed, can adequately cool a gpu under just about any circumstance.

Unless I'm grossly misinformed about GPU heat dynamics, which isn't completely out of the realm of possibility.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chrisnyc75*
> 
> No, I think you're misunderstanding my point....
> 
> A GPU does not produce as much heat as a CPU - it doesn't matter what level GPU we're talking about, they just don't produce as much heat as fast as a CPU. That is not to say they don't GET AS HOT as a cpu; there's a difference between "produce as much heat" and "get as hot". The former refers to the raw output of temperature; the latter refers to the net effect of that output of temperature given the installed cooling solution. The reason we see GPUs get upwards of 90c is that the cooling solutions on graphics cards simply are not anywhere near as efficient as CPU cooling solutions. And this is a direct result of the fact that the GPU doesn't NEED cooling that effective, because they don't produce as much heat (and the fact that the physical design & placement of graphics cards leaves us with few options for bigger/better air cooling solutions). If you were able to somehow put a tower heatsink and cpu cooling fans on a gpu, you would likely see temperatures similar to what we see on a gpu under water.
> 
> The surface area of gpu waterblocks is irrelevant -- the only reason they have more surface area is for "full coverage" cooling of the dram and vregs. A basic "universal" waterblock is the same size as a cpu waterblock (slightly larger since the gpu chip is larger). They're more efficient at cooling the GPU because it simply produces less heat, and that lower heat production is more efficiently cooled by even moderate watercooling (which is obviously way beyond what even high end air can do here). This becomes immediately evident when you see performance benchmarks testing old model H50 or H60 watercooling units applied to a graphics card. With old tech, minimal rad space, and very basic cooling capacity we see temperatures kept at about the same level as they are with high end custom watercooling. Again, they're not actually producing very much heat, so even very basic cooling performs more than adequately.
> 
> All of which brings me back to my point that ANY watercooling, with even minimal fan speed, can adequately cool a gpu under just about any circumstance.
> 
> Unless I'm grossly misinformed about GPU heat dynamics, which isn't completely out of the realm of possibility.


I don't understand...we have more than a semantic issue here .....heat by definition is measured in watts .... isn't 300 watts bigger than 130 ? After that, I have trouble making sense of anything as it's all based upon the assumption that the 300 watt output of the GPU isn't bigger than 130 watt heat output of the CPU.

The reason we see air cooled GPU solutions getting so hot is simply the ratio of watts to cooler surface area. It gets hotter because 300 watts is 2.3 times bigger than 130. Cooling is very simple, there is no magic to it.....the greater the surface area to watt ratio, the greater the cooling. Think of room heating .....using 1000 watt electric heaters plugged into outlets....will not two 1000 watt heaters produce twice the heat as one ? Will not 12 feet of baseboard heating produce twice the heat as 6 ? Will not a 120 x 480 rad get rid of twice as much heat as a 120 x 240 ?

The following statement that surface area is irrelevant is harder to understand. We both build cabins and insulate the walls with magic insulation that results in 0 heat loss. However, we don't have enough for the ceilings. All of the heat loss is therefore going to be thru the ceiling. My cabin is 10' x 10' ....your cabin has twice the area at 10' x 20'. According to the laws of thermodynamics, is it not an absolute certainty that you will lose twice as much heat thru your ceiling as I will thru mine ? Again, if surface area is irrelevant, then a 120 x 240mm rad will provide the exact same cooling as a 120 x 480 mm rad.

The GPU WB has a huge thermal mass......heat travels quickly thru a metal medium rapidly spreading out from the contact areas to the *giant 4" x 10" metal block*. The CPU has a measly 2" metal block. When you are cooking, the metal sides of a pot even though they are not in direct contact with the burner below provide almost as much BTUs into what's in the pot as the bottom because the temperature of the sides is very close to the temperature of the bottom.....

The coefficient of heat transfer for copper is 401, nickel is 91 and water is 0.58, air is 0.024

Your heat transfer from the contact area to the surrounding metal is 100 times more effective than water is at picking it up off the copper.....your water contact area with the metal / water interface is several orders of magnitude bigger ...guessing 16 square inches for the GPU versus CPU block. In addition the GPU block and backplate has direct exposure to moving air over some 50 square inches of metal and 30 sq inches of plexi to the CPU block's 4 sq in.

Even forgetting all this.... let's just look at the rads (all fans fixed at 900 rpm) .... what raises the water temps more ?

When running prime95 my water temps climb about 2C over idle..... when running Furmark, my water temps are up 9.6C @ 33.6.

Now the CPU is adding 40 watts under Furmark and GPUz reports 9.6% (25 watts) per card under P95 .... so, adjusting for the 50-40, we have to take off 10 / 130 * 2C to account for that so taking off 0.15C fromo the 2C temp rise from the CPU accounts for the relative difference. So we have a 9.6 rise (4.8C each) for the two GPUs .... and a 1.85 rise for the CPU

Doing the math, 4.8C/1.85C tells me that the GPUs are each putting 2.6 times the heat into the water as the CPU is .... Now let's compare that with the relative wattages .... 300 watts for the card / 130 watts for the CPU = 2.31

So based upon wattages of the respective components .... we should expect the 300 watt GPU to produce 2.31 times the temperature rise as the CPU.....and the measured temperature rise of the GPU was 2.6 times the CPU.....thought it would be closer....but clearly the GPUs are producing 2+ times the heat as the CPU.


----------



## Torus15

Just a quick question, can someone that has a case available check the clearance behind the front door to the 5 1/4" bay front as I have a Lamptron FC5 fan controller and would like to use it in a Enthoo. I've still to purchase the case, still researching.
thanks


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Torus15*
> 
> Just a quick question, can someone that has a case available check the clearance behind the front door to the 5 1/4" bay front as I have a Lamptron FC5 fan controller and would like to use it in a Enthoo. I've still to purchase the case, still researching.
> thanks


Last question in FAQ in OP.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Torus15*
> 
> Just a quick question, can someone that has a case available check the clearance behind the front door to the 5 1/4" bay front as I have a Lamptron FC5 fan controller and would like to use it in a Enthoo. I've still to purchase the case, still researching.
> thanks


It's here in the thread... I answered the question back in November . I can tell you the Reeven Six Eyes lets ya close the door w/o hitting the buttons. Though it doesn't matter cause the Reevn Six Eyes was smartly designed with buttons that "push in / push out", so they can sit flush and when ya wanna turn a knob....push it it pops out, turn it and then push it back in. As I recall the knobs stuck out 7.92mm and the face plate of the Reeven when mounted so the holes line up is sunk in behind the case door frame about 3mm.


----------



## Torus15

Thanks for that, not looking good for the Lamptron then.
Does anyone else think that the door is on the wrong side of the case.
If you have the case on your desk it would be nice to see whats behind the door and have the window side visible.
Looking at the hinges I'm sure that you can't swap them over, has anyone tried?


----------



## grifftech

Hey all. Well I got my neodymium magnets in and have modded them into the case for the front filter panel and it works very well. I removed the female portion of the push clips. The two side holes I had to drill them out with a 3/8ths inch bit and drilled clear through and then I pushed the magnets into the hole. I drilled it out as you want the magnets to sit flush.

They are holding in tight by themselves but I may use a small drop of epoxy around the edge for final securing. The middle magnet is held on by 2 layers of double sided tape so that it would bring it out to the right distance.

All three magnets line up with three screws on the back of the filter and since the magnet faces are countersunk the screw heads can sit in them far enough and thus providing the magnetic pull to hold the filter in place.

I would say the force to pull the filter loose is maybe about twice as much pull as is required to open the 5.25 bay door.

Here is a link to the magnets.

http://www.kjmagnetics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=R622CS-N

Works pretty well.

Thanks,
Griff


----------



## chino1974

Paulyoung I called last week about the fan hub and 140mm led fan and in about 4 days I had an email with the tracking number. It's scheduled to be delivered tomorrow afternoon via UPS. So I would say total from the first phone call till I have the package in hand will be about 10 days. That's as long as it is delivered tomorrow like UPS is saying. To be honest I am pretty satisfied with their custom support so far. What I am not happy with is what seems to be a lack of quality control before leaving the factory. I haven't even received the replacement fan hub and fan and already realized that I will have to call them again. The top led strip is only lighting up about half length. For what we pay for these cases they should inspect them alil better. But they are also new when it comes to selling and building cases so hopefully they get alil better with time.

owcraftsman Thanks alot for the compliment. It's still has a lot to go before being all done but so far I am liking the look of it. It was alil tight working in for the size of the exterior. But it does have a lot of aspects to it that are so much nicer than some of the other more expensive cases. I am going to this case from a 900d that I will be selling now and to be honest this cases build quality is on par if not better than the 900d. ( except for the broken fan hub, 140mm led fan and top led strip) I love the built in psu shroud, reservoir bracket/ wires cover, side mount lower fan filters ect... One thing I wish they did differently is the hard drive cage side panel. It would have been so much nicer and more convenient if they made it out of 2 pieces. Like that we would have the option of just removing the lower half to have more space to mount the lower rad easier and even leave it off so you get a full view of it and still have the side of your 5.25" bays covered. But that's what the good old Dremel 4000 is for. I am still considering swapping the top Swiftech 480mm rad with either a EK XTX 480 or Monsta 480 if anything for the look. I just ordered 3- EK Supremacy universal gpu blocks for my 7970's with the sli bridge so they all match the cpu block. I might also swap the Bitspower 1/2" x 3/4" compressions for EK compressions. Like that the loops will be almost all matching except for the dual d5 pump top. I've heard too many issues from people who have used the EK dual d5 pump top so I'll stick with my good old trusty Bitspower dual pump top.


----------



## tolis626

Regarding the whole CPU/GPU temperature discussion (chrisnyc75 and JackNaylor), I think a good and simpler analogy is liquid flow and bottlenecking.

Consider a big container like a bottle or something, that you can fill from the top and it has a hole for liquid to escape at the bottom. After a point, no matter how much liquid is poured in, the flow of the liquid will almost exclusively be dictated by the size of the hole at the bottom. When the liquid is poured in fast enough that it exceeds the capacity of the bottom hole to let it escape, the container will start getting filled, despite the fact that there is a way for the liquid to escape.

Similarly with heat transfer. The GPUs spread their heat on a much larger surface (>400mm^2 for high-end GPUs and <150 or even 100mm^2 for most CPUs) so it's easier for it to escape towards the medium one puts over the die for cooling. There are other factors in play, but they account for negligible amounts of heat, so just having that in mind is enough.

One must also not forget that when the cooler itself is hot (i.e. when touching the heatsink of a CPU cooler and it's warm or hot) its efficiency drops, sometimes rather dramatically. The bigger the deltaT between the die and the cooler is, the more efficient the cooler will be at moving heat from the die to environment.

Surface area of the cooling apparatus, be it a heatsink or water cooling radiators/blocks is a huge factor because of the point about efficiency. When there is a huge area available for heat dissipation, heat is more evenly spread out and is way easier to be moved towards the environment, thus resulting larger temperature differences between the (hot) dies and the (cold-ideally ambient temperature) radiator. However, that only applies until the cooling is saturated with heat which again, is much harder with large surface area water cooling setups. This can easily be verified if someone with a wc loop just turns off their fans and see how long it takes for the system to overheat. I bet it will last a while under even full load before problems from overheating start manifesting. That is because, given enough cooling surface area, even passive heat dissipation is huge compared to air cooling desings.

Finally, regarding current GPU air-cooling solutions... They're basically crap. But they can't get much better without becoming huge and heavy. Fact is that if one put a CPU heatsink on a GPU they'd get amazing temps (I tried this once with an old NVidia 6800 Ultra whose cooler was broken - VRMs didn't like that solution though), but if they put a GPU cooler on a CPU somehow, the result would be less than pleasing I guess. Still, these can't be directly compared because they have quite different designs and purposes, but you get the idea.


----------



## simsim44

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *grifftech*
> 
> 
> 
> Hey all. Well I got my neodymium magnets in and have modded them into the case for the front filter panel and it works very well. I removed the female portion of the push clips. The two side holes I had to drill them out with a 3/8ths inch bit and drilled clear through and then I pushed the magnets into the hole. I drilled it out as you want the magnets to sit flush.
> 
> They are holding in tight by themselves but I may use a small drop of epoxy around the edge for final securing. The middle magnet is held on by 2 layers of double sided tape so that it would bring it out to the right distance.
> 
> All three magnets line up with three screws on the back of the filter and since the magnet faces are countersunk the screw heads can sit in them far enough and thus providing the magnetic pull to hold the filter in place.
> 
> I would say the force to pull the filter loose is maybe about twice as much pull as is required to open the 5.25 bay door.
> 
> Here is a link to the magnets.
> 
> http://www.kjmagnetics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=R622CS-N
> 
> Works pretty well.
> 
> Thanks,
> Griff


That's awesome thanks for the link. I ordered replacement latches back in early January It was today that I got to resolve the order as I did not get the correct quantity, after quite a few email correspondences Home click is shipping the rest of the order. This solution would have been easier I think.


----------



## jassilamba

Man some really nice builds here guys, keep up the good work. And great idea on using magnetic latches instead.


----------



## paulyoung

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chino1974*
> 
> Paulyoung I called last week about the fan hub and 140mm led fan and in about 4 days I had an email with the tracking number. It's scheduled to be delivered tomorrow afternoon via UPS. So I would say total from the first phone call till I have the package in hand will be about 10 days. That's as long as it is delivered tomorrow like UPS is saying. To be honest I am pretty satisfied with their custom support so far. What I am not happy with is what seems to be a lack of quality control before leaving the factory. I haven't even received the replacement fan hub and fan and already realized that I will have to call them again. The top led strip is only lighting up about half length. For what we pay for these cases they should inspect them alil better. But they are also new when it comes to selling and building cases so hopefully they get alil better with time.
> 
> Cheers mate, after looking at the dates of my first email, I'm actually into my 6th week of waiting. I sent another email to them about 24hrs ago, but no reply, as of yet. Yep I agree the quality control is pretty poor, my left door panel is not a simple put to fit you've kina got to attatch as normal but once in place the top side needs to be pushed up slightly for the screw to fit. The other side panel will only take one screw the bottom hole is out by about 3mm. What you are experiencing with your top LED is exactly what happened to mine, only mine is the front, also my front strip, hasn't got the clear plastic insert like the top has.
> 
> When I first saw the case on Youtube I couldn't wait till it came out, and pr ordered at the first chance I had, I even sold my Z87 XPower to downsize from XL ATx to a regular ATX cos it wouldn't fit. Overall I'm quite disapointed to be honest, I'mm seriously thinking of going down the Caselabs route, to no at least I'm getting quality. I can't seem to find a case I'm happy with, the EP is the closet I've come, on paper at least.


----------



## The Redtide

For those of y'all who are pushing air into your case with your upper radiator: What filters are you using?


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The Redtide*
> 
> For those of y'all who are pushing air into your case with your upper radiator: What filters are you using?


I'm not pushing through a radiator but just using stock filter under the grill.


----------



## The Redtide

I may have worded that wrong: For those of y'all who are pushing/pulling air into your case through your upper radiator what filters are you using on the fans? Stock filter?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> I'm not pushing through a radiator but just using stock filter under the grill.


----------



## grifftech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The Redtide*
> 
> I may have worded that wrong: For those of y'all who are pushing/pulling air into your case through your upper radiator what filters are you using on the fans? Stock filter?


I am using the stock filter right now and it seems to be doing ok. But I may add something here soon


----------



## chino1974

Hey guys alil more progress with the Enthoo. Got all the accents painted. Now just have to add the light blue sleeving to match the coolant and accents. Then have to wait for the EK gpu blocks and bridhe, 480MM UT60 for top and Aquero fan controller. All in all even with the poor quality control I am very happy with this case. I came from a 900d and was still able to put almost the same size loop into this. My current loop is only 40mm smaller total than in the 900d. Here's a few more pics.


----------



## The Redtide

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *grifftech*
> 
> I am using the stock filter right now and it seems to be doing ok. But I may add something here soon


Ahhh, its me - duh. Now I get it. I took the top off when I first got it and never even noticed it had a screen mesh on it. Thanks.


----------



## grifftech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The Redtide*
> 
> Ahhh, its me - duh. Now I get it. I took the top off when I first got it and never even noticed it had a screen mesh on it. Thanks.


I did the same thing when I first got, I just thought the large mesh was the filter and though I needed to add more


----------



## grifftech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chino1974*
> 
> Hey guys alil more progress with the Enthoo. Got all the accents painted. Now just have to add the light blue sleeving to match the coolant and accents. Then have to wait for the EK gpu blocks and bridhe, 480MM UT60 for top and Aquero fan controller. All in all even with the poor quality control I am very happy with this case. I came from a 900d and was still able to put almost the same size loop into this. My current loop is only 40mm smaller total than in the 900d. Here's a few more pics.


Looks awesome, I want to get a metallic blue paint for my top mesh and the mesh on the front panel.


----------



## skywalker311

Enthoo Primo front and side LED color

I need two red led strips that will fit the front and side of my case. I know that it can't be no more then 5.5mm wide. I've seen the post on mod zoo forum. If you change the leds on your case and if by chance it red. Could you please send me add a link from where you got it.
If you know one that is on newegg that be great.


----------



## tolis626

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skywalker311*
> 
> Enthoo Primo front and side LED color
> 
> I need two red led strips that will fit the front and side of my case. I know that it can't be no more then 5.5mm wide. I've seen the post on mod zoo forum. If you change the leds on your case and if by chance it red. Could you please send me add a link from where you got it.
> If you know one that is on newegg that be great.


I don't know about any specific strips you can use, although I think even 6-6.5mm thick strips will fit with some force. Can't say for sure.

What I do know for sure is that you can remove the plastic-ish thingy it has that refracts the light of the LED strip and makes it appear more uniform and then practically any LED strip will fit, even extra thick RGB ones. The downside to this is that instead of a continuous and uniform line, you will see the individual LEDs lit up behind the black cover that goes over the LEDs. I suppose one could figure out a way to make the light appear more uniform, but I haven't got down to building in my own EP so I can't comment on that yet. If you decide to go this route, however, I'd get as densely packed strips as possible. If LEDs are few and far between, I think it's gonna look ugly.


----------



## simsim44

I did find this, I think near this post it was a topic and some one changed out their LED's you will have to dig

http://www.overclock.net/t/1418637/phanteks-enthoo-primo-owners-club/2540#post_21611684


----------



## doyll

Using wider strips is problematic as the diffuser will not fit over them we end up with dots of light instead of a line of light.


----------



## jassilamba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skywalker311*
> 
> Enthoo Primo front and side LED color
> 
> I need two red led strips that will fit the front and side of my case. I know that it can't be no more then 5.5mm wide. I've seen the post on mod zoo forum. If you change the leds on your case and if by chance it red. Could you please send me add a link from where you got it.
> If you know one that is on newegg that be great.


Here you go mate, here is the link to the Red LEDs - https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/top-emitting/nfls-ss-x300-series-30-high-power-led-super-slim-flexible-light-strip-sample/880/

And here is how to do it - http://themodzoo.com/forum/index.php?/topic/883-enthoo-primo-front-led-color-change/


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Torus15*
> 
> Thanks for that, not looking good for the Lamptron then.
> Does anyone else think that the door is on the wrong side of the case.
> If you have the case on your desk it would be nice to see whats behind the door and have the window side visible.
> Looking at the hinges I'm sure that you can't swap them over, has anyone tried?


Well the hinges yes ..... A few pages back I talked about offering a door frame with changeable inserts .... window, grille etc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tolis626*
> 
> Regarding the whole CPU/GPU temperature discussion (chrisnyc75 and JackNaylor), I think a good and simpler analogy is liquid flow and bottlenecking.
> 
> Consider a big container like a bottle or something, that you can fill from the top and it has a hole for liquid to escape at the bottom. After a point, no matter how much liquid is poured in, the flow of the liquid will almost exclusively be dictated by the size of the hole at the bottom. .


Most certainly a factor.........dunno why Intel so excited about shrinking the die as that flies in the face of good cooling. Not to mention with the individual traces being closer together, voltage becomes more of an issue. Pop off the IHS and ya see just how tiny the surface is .....assembly method diminishes heat transfer and even the IHS is tiny.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The Redtide*
> 
> For those of y'all who are pushing air into your case with your upper radiator: What filters are you using?


I was using the ones that come with the case but they have a huge impact on temps. It was Doyll that 1st raised the issue about the bottom inlet area but I found the top to be even worse, at least in my case. I was seeing a 1.3C temp drop across my 280 in the bottom and only a 0.9 at the top on the 420 which made no sense. Some hypothesizing led to a conclusion that my bottom air flow was being augmented by inlet air going in thru the front fans, thru the grille at bottom of case and up thru rad ..... obviously you wouldn't get that with say a 480 on bottom.

So I took the top grille off, yanked out the bottom filters and Delta T went from 12.8 to 8.4C


----------



## Phantatsy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> Well the hinges yes ..... A few pages back I talked about offering a door frame with changeable inserts .... window, grille etc
> Most certainly a factor.........dunno why Intel so excited about shrinking the die as that flies in the face of good cooling. Not to mention with the individual traces being closer together, voltage becomes more of an issue. Pop off the IHS and ya see just how tiny the surface is .....assembly method diminishes heat transfer and even the IHS is tiny.
> I was using the ones that come with the case but they have a huge impact on temps. It was Doyll that 1st raised the issue about the bottom inlet area but I found the top to be even worse, at least in my case. I was seeing a 1.3C temp drop across my 280 in the bottom and only a 0.9 at the top on the 420 which made no sense. Some hypothesizing led to a conclusion that my bottom air flow was being augmented by inlet air going in thru the front fans, thru the grille at bottom of case and up thru rad ..... obviously you wouldn't get that with say a 480 on bottom.
> 
> So I took the top grille off, yanked out the bottom filters and Delta T went from 12.8 to 8.4C


Seems to me like a big difference for a simple filter. Have you tried using a different filter?


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phantatsy*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> Well the hinges yes ..... A few pages back I talked about offering a door frame with changeable inserts .... window, grille etc
> Most certainly a factor.........dunno why Intel so excited about shrinking the die as that flies in the face of good cooling. Not to mention with the individual traces being closer together, voltage becomes more of an issue. Pop off the IHS and ya see just how tiny the surface is .....assembly method diminishes heat transfer and even the IHS is tiny.
> I was using the ones that come with the case but they have a huge impact on temps. It was Doyll that 1st raised the issue about the bottom inlet area but I found the top to be even worse, at least in my case. I was seeing a 1.3C temp drop across my 280 in the bottom and only a 0.9 at the top on the 420 which made no sense. Some hypothesizing led to a conclusion that my bottom air flow was being augmented by inlet air going in thru the front fans, thru the grille at bottom of case and up thru rad ..... obviously you wouldn't get that with say a 480 on bottom.
> 
> So I took the top grille off, yanked out the bottom filters and Delta T went from 12.8 to 8.4C
> 
> 
> 
> Seems to me like a big difference for a simple filter. Have you tried using a different filter?
Click to expand...

Top grill was the biggest difference, not the filters. The top grill is (pattern R1.5 T3.0) mesh with 22.68% open area.. 77.32% of the vent area is blocked by the mesh.

I would love to find a source of hexagonal hole mesh with 2.5mm holes (H2T2.5 90*) 64% open area or even better 4.5mm holes (H4.5T5) 81% open area... and replace the stock grill with it.








http://www.overclock.net/t/1418637/phanteks-enthoo-primo-owners-club/2120_20#post_21466857


----------



## skywalker311

enthoo primo case badge size

I need some help please. I'm getting a new case badge plate made that goes inside the case. The thing is I need the measurement to send and at the moment I've got no way to measure it.
If anyone can help me that be great. I need the WxHxD in mm. Also here a picture of the plate that I need measure.
Thanks


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skywalker311*
> 
> enthoo primo case badge size
> 
> I need some help please. I'm getting a new case badge plate made that goes inside the case. The thing is I need the measurement to send and at the moment I've got no way to measure it.
> If anyone can help me that be great. I need the WxHxD in mm. Also here a picture of the plate that I need measure.
> Thanks


It's 43mm x 83mm with 2mm radius corners. As far as thickness goes, which is I guess what you meant by 'D', I'm not positive. IIRC it's pretty thin, like 1mm or so. I had a custom plate made to replace it from Coldzero, but the thickness of it didn't factor into it for me. The plate I got made by Coldzero is acrylic several times thicker than that metal Enthoo Primo one was.


----------



## skywalker311

thanks


----------



## xCloudyHorizon

I've been mulling over switching chipsets and a few possible boards have caught my attention. I know regular ATX will fit, but lets say I were to put a E-ATX board in, would I have to remove the reservoir bracket if the board is too wide?


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xCloudyHorizon*
> 
> I've been mulling over switching chipsets and a few possible boards have caught my attention. I know regular ATX will fit, but lets say I were to put a E-ATX board in, would I have to remove the reservoir bracket if the board is too wide?


Depends. Most boards that are labeled as E-ATX are not anywhere near the 13" width industry standard for that classification. For example, ASUS boards labeled as E-ATX, like the the RIVE or RIVBE, are only 10.7" wide - just about an inch wider than a regular ATX board & nowhere near wide enough to be able to use that extra set of E-ATX mobo standoffs, and you'd have no real issues using the reservoir bracket with one of them.

FWIW I'm running a RIVBE with a reservoir on the bracket. It is a bit of a nightmare trying to plug in or unplug SATA cables though after the res bracket is place. You'd want to have all that tackled before putting that bracket on.


----------



## bond32

Thought I would poke back in here, see what's going on. Got my new stuff in, moving back to a corsair 540. Still love the Primo, not the size.



Still have my primo and large rads for sale. PM me if interested


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phantatsy*
> 
> Seems to me like a big difference for a simple filter. Have you tried using a different filter?


It's the combo of the grille and the filter. I have tried "going nekid" and after cupla months no dust so not thinking about it atm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Top grill was the biggest difference, not the filters. The top grill is (pattern R1.5 T3.0) mesh with 22.68% open area.. 77.32% of the vent area is blocked by the mesh.
> 
> I would love to find a source of hexagonal hole mesh with 2.5mm holes (H2T2.5 90*) 64% open area or even better 4.5mm holes (H4.5T5) 81% open area... and replace the stock grill with it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1418637/phanteks-enthoo-primo-owners-club/2120_20#post_21466857


Will ya settle for 79% ?

1/4" hexagon holes with 9/32" staggered centers

http://mnpctech.com/case-mods-gaming-pc-liquid-modding-custom-computer-mnpctech-overclock-cooling-fan-grills/modders-mesh-honeycomb.html

Or 77%
Raw Material: Aluminum
Raw Thickness: 0.064" / 14 Gauge
Open Area: ~ 77%

http://www.customcargrills.com/products.asp?cat=27


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Oops my bad


----------



## setter

Just recently upgraded to this case, (partly based on some great info from doyll on another forum). Very impressed with it so far and there seems to be a goldmine of info in this thread here. Will try to get some pics uploaded soon.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> Will ya settle for 79% ?
> 
> 1/4" hexagon holes with 9/32" staggered centers
> 
> http://mnpctech.com/case-mods-gaming-pc-liquid-modding-custom-computer-mnpctech-overclock-cooling-fan-grills/modders-mesh-honeycomb.html
> 
> Or 77%
> Raw Material: Aluminum
> Raw Thickness: 0.064" / 14 Gauge
> Open Area: ~ 77%
> 
> http://www.customcargrills.com/products.asp?cat=27


Modder's Mesh would work but it's on wrong side of pond. Would cost more in shipping than the cost of mesh. ;(
I've seen some similar to second but don't like the expanded metal look.

Thanks for the suggestions.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

FWIW I've bought sheets of perforated steel many times off of eBay for various modding projects, automotive, cabinetry, computers, etc. The most recent was a 40"x36" 1008 sheet with 0.156" holes (63% open area), and it was well under $30 with free shipping. Perhaps there's something similar available in the UK?

edit:


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *setter*
> 
> Just recently upgraded to this case, (partly based on some great info from doyll on another forum). Very impressed with it so far and there seems to be a goldmine of info in this thread here. Will try to get some pics uploaded soon.


Good to see you here Mate! Great bunch of people here.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> FWIW I've bought sheets of perforated steel many times off of eBay for various modding projects, automotive, cabinetry, computers, etc. The most recent was a 40"x36" 1008 sheet with 0.156" holes (63% open area), and it was well under $30 with free shipping. Perhaps there's something similar available in the UK?
> 
> edit:


Seller customcargrills from USA sells on ebay here but shipping can be as much or more than mesh costs.. and if customs charges of 20% plus £8.00 processing...









I can find round hole and may end up getting some. I just like the looks of the hexagonal pattern better. Maybe I'll buy a full 8' x 4' sheet, cut it up and sell it.


----------



## Sparkron

Hey guys, I'm still in the theory crafting stage of my build, and thank god I read this thread. Soooo much good information here, you guys are amazing. It's taken me a solid week to get through the entire thread (and a significant amount of "work" time, oops!) but I'm super glad I did. I've changed from a 480 to a 420 rad at the top, and got heaps of ideas. I do have a few questions for you guys though.

1. I'm definitely sold on the 420 rad at the top. Someone mentioned for the fill ports, that you need to pull the rad back a little to expose them. Does this effect the mounting of the rad? Does exposing the fill ports still allow the rad and fans to line up correctly with the mounts?

2. What fittings do I need to create that fill point off the top rad port mentioned in question 1? I see a 30mm fitting (I'll be using bitspower matte black but that's irrelevant). It seems they only come in female to female? Does that mean I need a tiny male to male piece to go between the port and extender? And do I then just put a stopper in the extender until I'm ready to fill?

3. I think you guys have convinced me to go for a 280 rad down the bottom, that way I can use one of the ports as a drain port (and for this I assume I just need a 90 deg fitting and QDC) and mount my pump where the bottom HDD cage was. And there entails my question, pump size. I'm going to be running a 4770K, 2x 780 Ti, 420 XT45 rad up top, 280 UT60 rad down bottom, and a 280 ST30 rad at the front/side. Everything overclocked as far as humanly possible. Will a MCP35x do the job here? Or should I upgrade to a MCP35x2? I'm leaning towards going for the x2 in order to get the system running quieter, but want to know if the single will handle the load as well.

4. Fans. Everyone says the Phanteks fans that come with the case are amazing. I need to order a few more fans for the rads, and they will be highly visible (top and bottom rad mounted, back of case exhaust). My issue is, I'm going for a red / black build, will the white fan blades all over the place be too controversial to the theme? What are some other really good 140mm fans in either black or red that might do the job?

5. Temp sensors. I have no idea on dimensions of these (have never water cooled before), can I simply bang one into a spare port on a rad? Or do I need to add a T block somewhere and do it that way?

6. Will this EK supremacy fit for the socket 1150 i7 4770k? On the spec sheet it doesn't list socket 1150. Link below:
http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=207_160_878_879&products_id=21128

7. Fan Controllers. I was originally looking at the FC5 v3, but the knobs won't fit and I don't want to push it back into the case (did I mention I love you guys for this thread? xD). I'm now looking at the lamptron CW611 and the Aquaero 6 XT. Can anyone shed some light on these as I'm struggling to find any reviews that give adequate info on these. I imagine the CW611 is very similar to the FC5 v3, just with 36W per channel. I would really like some info the Aquaero though, it looks super techy (which I love). And comes with a remote and software! The software really intrigues me, is it able to set the controller based off cpu temps?

Sorry for all the questions guys!!


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sparkron*
> 
> Hey guys, I'm still in the theory crafting stage of my build, and thank god I read this thread. Soooo much good information here, you guys are amazing. It's taken me a solid week to get through the entire thread (and a significant amount of "work" time, oops!) but I'm super glad I did. I've changed from a 480 to a 420 rad at the top, and got heaps of ideas. I do have a few questions for you guys though.
> 
> 1. I'm definitely sold on the 420 rad at the top. Someone mentioned for the fill ports, that you need to pull the rad back a little to expose them. Does this effect the mounting of the rad? Does exposing the fill ports still allow the rad and fans to line up correctly with the mounts?


The rad/fan mounts are slots, not holes, so the rad positioning can be shifted a bit however you need it.
Quote:


> 2. What fittings do I need to create that fill point off the top rad port mentioned in question 1? I see a 30mm fitting (I'll be using bitspower matte black but that's irrelevant). It seems they only come in female to female? Does that mean I need a tiny male to male piece to go between the port and extender? And do I then just put a stopper in the extender until I'm ready to fill?


A standard male-to-female extension and a stop fitting is all that's really needed. Just make sure it's not so long with the plug screwed in that it interferes with the top cover. Don't know if a 30mm will fit. Most any 10, 15, 20, or 25mm extension should be fine.
Quote:


> 3. I think you guys have convinced me to go for a 280 rad down the bottom, that way I can use one of the ports as a drain port (and for this I assume I just need a 90 deg fitting and QDC) and mount my pump where the bottom HDD cage was. And there entails my question, pump size. I'm going to be running a 4770K, 2x 780 Ti, 420 XT45 rad up top, 280 UT60 rad down bottom, and a 280 ST30 rad at the front/side. Everything overclocked as far as humanly possible. Will a MCP35x do the job here? Or should I upgrade to a MCP35x2? I'm leaning towards going for the x2 in order to get the system running quieter, but want to know if the single will handle the load as well.


Sounds like you want Jack's setup exactly. Just make sure you have a loop with plenty of restriction and that you are setup to dial the pump speed on the 35x pumps down & preferably are using the optional heatsinks too as DDCs like the MCP35x do have a well-known tendency to overheat if run at full speed for very long especially in loops with little restriction.
Quote:


> 4. Fans. Everyone says the Phanteks fans that come with the case are amazing. I need to order a few more fans for the rads, and they will be highly visible (top and bottom rad mounted, back of case exhaust). My issue is, I'm going for a red / black build, will the white fan blades all over the place be too controversial to the theme? What are some other really good 140mm fans in either black or red that might do the job?


No idea. The only fans that came with the case that I'm currently using are the front ones.
Quote:


> 5. Temp sensors. I have no idea on dimensions of these (have never water cooled before), can I simply bang one into a spare port on a rad? Or do I need to add a T block somewhere and do it that way?


If using a stop plug type liquid temp sensor, yes, you can mount in any spare port. You want it to be placed where there is a constant flow past it, so an otherwise unused port in a rad can be good. Another option is to use an inline temp sensor instead.
Quote:


> 6. Will this EK supremacy fit for the socket 1150 i7 4770k? On the spec sheet it doesn't list socket 1150. Link below:
> http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=207_160_878_879&products_id=21128


1150 socket mounting holes are identical as 1155/1156 (75mm spacing), so any cooler/block that works for one also works for the other.
Quote:


> 7. Fan Controllers. I was originally looking at the FC5 v3, but the knobs won't fit and I don't want to push it back into the case (did I mention I love you guys for this thread? xD). I'm now looking at the lamptron CW611 and the Aquaero 6 XT. Can anyone shed some light on these as I'm struggling to find any reviews that give adequate info on these. I imagine the CW611 is very similar to the FC5 v3, just with 36W per channel. I would really like some info the Aquaero though, it looks super techy (which I love). And comes with a remote and software! The software really intrigues me, is it able to set the controller based off cpu temps?


http://www.overclock.net/t/1474470/ocn-aquaero-owners-club/

Anything you want to know about any of the Aquaero models you can find out there.

The CW611 puts out a smooth steady voltage, whereas Lamptron's cheaper fan controllers like the FC3 put out a pulsing (PWM) voltage like lots of other cheap fan controllers. The latter does work ok in most instances, but some fans really do not like the PWM voltage control, hence you will usually see a lot of reviews on them complaining that the controller causes their fans to have a clicking sound.

IT Diva put a CW611 and an FC3 on the oscilloscope here that pretty clearly shows the difference between them. The CW611 is a flat steady line and the FC3 is a wavy PWM signal (not to be confused with 'PWM' fans/pumps - that's a whole different animal):
http://www.overclock.net/t/1470452/pwm-pump-control-rive-be-limitations-and-lack-of-affordable-alternatives/20_20#post_21880552


----------



## Gunilla95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sparkron*
> 
> Hey guys, I'm still in the theory crafting stage of my build, and thank god I read this thread. Soooo much good information here, you guys are amazing. It's taken me a solid week to get through the entire thread (and a significant amount of "work" time, oops!) but I'm super glad I did. I've changed from a 480 to a 420 rad at the top, and got heaps of ideas. I do have a few questions for you guys though.
> 
> 1. I'm definitely sold on the 420 rad at the top. Someone mentioned for the fill ports, that you need to pull the rad back a little to expose them. Does this effect the mounting of the rad? Does exposing the fill ports still allow the rad and fans to line up correctly with the mounts?
> 
> 2. What fittings do I need to create that fill point off the top rad port mentioned in question 1? I see a 30mm fitting (I'll be using bitspower matte black but that's irrelevant). It seems they only come in female to female? Does that mean I need a tiny male to male piece to go between the port and extender? And do I then just put a stopper in the extender until I'm ready to fill?
> 
> 3. I think you guys have convinced me to go for a 280 rad down the bottom, that way I can use one of the ports as a drain port (and for this I assume I just need a 90 deg fitting and QDC) and mount my pump where the bottom HDD cage was. And there entails my question, pump size. I'm going to be running a 4770K, 2x 780 Ti, 420 XT45 rad up top, 280 UT60 rad down bottom, and a 280 ST30 rad at the front/side. Everything overclocked as far as humanly possible. Will a MCP35x do the job here? Or should I upgrade to a MCP35x2? I'm leaning towards going for the x2 in order to get the system running quieter, but want to know if the single will handle the load as well.
> 
> 4. Fans. Everyone says the Phanteks fans that come with the case are amazing. I need to order a few more fans for the rads, and they will be highly visible (top and bottom rad mounted, back of case exhaust). My issue is, I'm going for a red / black build, will the white fan blades all over the place be too controversial to the theme? What are some other really good 140mm fans in either black or red that might do the job?
> 
> 5. Temp sensors. I have no idea on dimensions of these (have never water cooled before), can I simply bang one into a spare port on a rad? Or do I need to add a T block somewhere and do it that way?
> 
> 6. Will this EK supremacy fit for the socket 1150 i7 4770k? On the spec sheet it doesn't list socket 1150. Link below:
> http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=207_160_878_879&products_id=21128
> 
> 7. Fan Controllers. I was originally looking at the FC5 v3, but the knobs won't fit and I don't want to push it back into the case (did I mention I love you guys for this thread? xD). I'm now looking at the lamptron CW611 and the Aquaero 6 XT. Can anyone shed some light on these as I'm struggling to find any reviews that give adequate info on these. I imagine the CW611 is very similar to the FC5 v3, just with 36W per channel. I would really like some info the Aquaero though, it looks super techy (which I love). And comes with a remote and software! The software really intrigues me, is it able to set the controller based off cpu temps?
> 
> Sorry for all the questions guys!!


Hello mate!

I cant answer all the question but i can help you with some of em!

1. it will still fit couse the mount in the phantek are long "channels" instead of holes so you can slide the rad to the position you like.

2. well im doing it simple, screw of the plug. And then i use a simple Funnel into the hole xD

3 and 4. cant answer on i hope someone else can help you with that.

5. well i have simple 1/4G temp sensors from xspc i think? i have them simply screwd in here and there. one in the extra outlet of my pump and 2 at random connection point in my rads, think of that it makes diffrent if you screw them in at the inlet or outlet of the rad. if you are intrested in the coolest point of the system or hottest.

6. yes from my knowledge all ek EK supremacy blocks do fit 1150/55.

7. cant help you with that sadly. im spinning of all 15 fans of the built in pwm hubb of the case.

Hope i coud help a little atleast









EDIT: @Unicr0nhunter Is as always faster, and has clearly the better answers and besides the better English skills. xD


----------



## Sparkron

Haha, he did have to do a little stealth edit to fix his formatting if that makes you feel any better









Thanks for the info guys, that cleares up a few things. One question I do have Unicron, you mention about restriction in the loop. I haven't read anything about that during this thread, I would have imagined less restriction would be better? That would mean more water flowing quicker, thus cooling slightly more?

The only thing left is the fans and the controller. I'll have to dig a bit deeper into the Aquaero thread. I'm half leaning towards just buying it and working it out, looks like it will do everything I could ever want plus more!


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

18w DDCs (like the 35x) are prone to the pump itself overheating especially if run at full speed in a loop with little restriction for very long. Unlike a D5 which doesn't get hot as it dumps its heat into the loop. a DDC dumps most of its heat through the bottom of the pump into the air around it. That's why they sell heatsinks for them which can help deal with their overheating issues. Don't get me wrong, the DDC is a good pump, but it only really shines in loops that have more than an average # of blocks, and only then when properly set up to keep the speeds (and thus the pump temps) down. DDCs are not known to be bulletproof reliable like the D5 is. The DDC is best known for having a strong enough head pressure to handle loops with more than a few waterblocks of restriction.

Rather than reinvent the wheel, here's just a taste of some of what you'll find if you search this forum or any other like it for 'DDC' + 'overheat' or 'melt' or 'failure' etc.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> The issue I see isn't w/ too much pressure. It is too little restriction. DDCs should not be used in a low restriction loop. I would not suggest running two pumps for 2 blocks. There is a good chance you'll burn out the PCBs unless you are cooling them somehow. The reason why DDCs have a bad reputation for reliability is when they are used like that. 2 pumps will not benefit temperatures at all. Flowrate has a very small impact on water temperatures.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Go ahead and make a poll asking about DDC reliability. I can guarantee you that most people will say it is unreliable. There have been threads about DDC deaths on pretty much every water cooling forum out there. There are reasons why DIYINHK sells replacement PCBs for them. Same reason why three different manufacturers sell heatsinks for them. I myself have 5 dead ones. Back in the day people didn't realize why they dying. Now that I know to slow my DDC3.2 PWM down, I have had zero issues with it.
> 
> If you got a 7C drop in temperatures by adding a second pump you have issues w/ your loop. A blockage or something else wrong. None of your blocks are restrictive. You should definitely not be under 1GPM w/ a single pump. The difference between 1GPM and 2GPM shouldn't be more than a degree at most. I myself run my loop w/ my DDC @ 1200 rpm, which I'd guess is around 0.2GPM. The different between 1200rpm and 4500 rpm is a whopping 3 degrees.
> 
> A pic of my DDC3 graveyard.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/PCA77F/ddcs1.jpg.html


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> The 35X doesnt like to be run flat out for long periods,they are affected by the usual DDC overheating issues..
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Which is why i dont recommend them and recommend the D5 instead.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sparkron*
> 
> Hey guys, I'm still in the theory crafting stage of my build, and thank god I read this thread. Soooo much good information here, you guys are amazing. It's taken me a solid week to get through the entire thread (and a significant amount of "work" time, oops!) but I'm super glad I did. I've changed from a 480 to a 420 rad at the top, and got heaps of ideas. I do have a few questions for you guys though.
> 
> 1. I'm definitely sold on the 420 rad at the top. Someone mentioned for the fill ports, that you need to pull the rad back a little to expose them. Does this effect the mounting of the rad? Does exposing the fill ports still allow the rad and fans to line up correctly with the mounts?
> 
> 2. What fittings do I need to create that fill point off the top rad port mentioned in question 1? I see a 30mm fitting (I'll be using bitspower matte black but that's irrelevant). It seems they only come in female to female? Does that mean I need a tiny male to male piece to go between the port and extender? And do I then just put a stopper in the extender until I'm ready to fill?
> 
> 3. I think you guys have convinced me to go for a 280 rad down the bottom, that way I can use one of the ports as a drain port (and for this I assume I just need a 90 deg fitting and QDC) and mount my pump where the bottom HDD cage was. And there entails my question, pump size. I'm going to be running a 4770K, 2x 780 Ti, 420 XT45 rad up top, 280 UT60 rad down bottom, and a 280 ST30 rad at the front/side. Everything overclocked as far as humanly possible. Will a MCP35x do the job here? Or should I upgrade to a MCP35x2? I'm leaning towards going for the x2 in order to get the system running quieter, but want to know if the single will handle the load as well.
> 
> 4. Fans. Everyone says the Phanteks fans that come with the case are amazing. I need to order a few more fans for the rads, and they will be highly visible (top and bottom rad mounted, back of case exhaust). My issue is, I'm going for a red / black build, will the white fan blades all over the place be too controversial to the theme? What are some other really good 140mm fans in either black or red that might do the job?
> 
> 5. Temp sensors. I have no idea on dimensions of these (have never water cooled before), can I simply bang one into a spare port on a rad? Or do I need to add a T block somewhere and do it that way?
> 
> 6. Will this EK supremacy fit for the socket 1150 i7 4770k? On the spec sheet it doesn't list socket 1150. Link below:
> http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=207_160_878_879&products_id=21128
> 
> 7. Fan Controllers. I was originally looking at the FC5 v3, but the knobs won't fit and I don't want to push it back into the case (did I mention I love you guys for this thread? xD). I'm now looking at the lamptron CW611 and the Aquaero 6 XT. Can anyone shed some light on these as I'm struggling to find any reviews that give adequate info on these. I imagine the CW611 is very similar to the FC5 v3, just with 36W per channel. I would really like some info the Aquaero though, it looks super techy (which I love). And comes with a remote and software! The software really intrigues me, is it able to set the controller based off cpu temps?
> 
> Sorry for all the questions guys!!


Welcome mate. Sounds like you will end up with a similar loop like mine. Uni and Gunilla already point you to very good directions.

1) Yes, you have room to control the position of your 420 mm rad on top. Here is what I found. Mine have the ports facing front (is a xt 45 so I have 6 ports). That way I place the pump in the 5.25 bays and the ports in the rad are just there to connect straight to the pump. I use two d5 and after have a big problem with ek dual top (leaking everywhere from the o-rings - mounted perfectly I should say so it was a manufacturing problem) I switch to two single tops place at different positions in the loop. So with the ports facing front the rad can actually go way back on the case freeing more space in front for the fan controllers. I highly recommend both models you are targeting (aquacomputer and cw611) In fact I have both with the aquero just going in the system this week. The other way around (ports facing back) the rad will have to be placed a little bit to the front to allow the ports on the back/top of the rad to be used as a fill port. No big deal but just sharing what I found with you.

2) in fact just regular compression or barbs will do the trick. I just leave the stop plug there in my rad and when I need to fill it I unscrew the stop plug and place a compression there with a tube on it or a funnel to fill the rad. You can place extension or even qd or bitspower valve there if you want but you don't need it.

3) I would go with a d5 personally. Just for your reference a single d5 in my loop (similar to what you plan) get me around 1 gpm at full speed (0.9 to be precise) . With two d5 I get 1.3/1.4 GPM with both gpus in serial and 1.6/1.7 with both gpus in parallel. Not apples to apples comparison since the parallel number came from the dual top while the serial came from the two single tops. On the drain question yes you can use a 90 degrees adapter (get a small one like swiftech or alphacool or the really tiny bitspower), you will need most likely some extender (I place two 15 mm there) and either a QD or a bitwspoer valve. I went with the valve since I thought was actually easier that the qd since I have the second pump just above the rad (with tubes thee too...







) which make difficult to place hands down there and use the QD. Both solutions will be clean.

4) The fans are fantastic, my theme is red/black too and I don't think is bad on the contrary. You can check some pictures in my build log. To be fair on the bottom rad (280) I mix two Phanteks fans (hidden below it) an two Prolimatech red ones which goes well with the theme. Both fans are excellent and work just fine together.

5) any temp sensor like bitspower g1/4 will do the tricky. No need for fancy ones. Yet, if you go the aquero route you can consider a aquacomputer flow/temp meter and hook it to the aquero.

6) it should if is compatible with 1155/56 socket. But you can check in the ek configurator page giving your mb model to the ek system.

7) As I said I recommend both. In fact will be using both. The cw611 will control all volt regulated fans in the system and the aquero will control all my sensors (temp and flow meters) as well as my two d5 pumps PWM. This is beacuse I already have the cw611 but in your case I would either go one route or the other. The aquaero is a really complete thing. It does have PWM capabilities that the cw611 does not have. But if budget is a concern go the cw611 and you will not regret if you don't need pwm capability.

That's it mate. Feel free to ask more questions and hope this helps. Soon will upload the pictures of the final assembled system although both in my log and here you have some (a little older) of it.

Cheers


----------



## Sparkron

Some scary stuff unicron!

Thanks Gabriel, that's answered a few of my queries.

I originally looked at the DDC pumps because they were quieter as that's a big point throughout my whole system (hence the slight overkill on rads). Ill do some more research on comparing the D5 and the DDC tonight. If i went the DDC now, i think it would definitely be the MCP35x2 with a heatsink and 2x 80mm fans so i could keep the speed down and dissipate some of the heat. Will do some more research tonight.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sparkron*
> 
> Some scary stuff unicron!
> 
> Thanks Gabriel, that's answered a few of my queries.
> 
> I originally looked at the DDC pumps because they were quieter as that's a big point throughout my whole system (hence the slight overkill on rads). Ill do some more research on comparing the D5 and the DDC tonight. If i went the DDC now, i think it would definitely be the MCP35x2 with a heatsink and 2x 80mm fans so i could keep the speed down and dissipate some of the heat. Will do some more research tonight.


You welcome mate. If it is your first incursion on getting







then you definitely should check this:

http://martinsliquidlab.org/2012/12/25/swiftech-mcp-655-pwm-drive-pump-review/

and several other pumps reviews there. It is a wonderful resource to the community. Martin is very through in his tests.

Best wishes


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sparkron*
> 
> Some scary stuff unicron!
> 
> Thanks Gabriel, that's answered a few of my queries.
> 
> *I originally looked at the DDC pumps because they were quieter* as that's a big point throughout my whole system (hence the slight overkill on rads). Ill do some more research on comparing the D5 and the DDC tonight. If i went the DDC now, i think it would definitely be the MCP35x2 with a heatsink and 2x 80mm fans so i could keep the speed down and dissipate some of the heat. Will do some more research tonight.


Ummm, no way are DDCs quieter than D5s. It's the other way around.

Of the 2 most popular watercooling pumps by Laing, D5s (aka MCP-655, PMP450, VPP655) are quieter, have a faster flow rate, and a better record for dependability. D5s don't get hot. The most popular model is the D5 Vario, which has a 5-position speed control knob on the back. You just set it to whatever speed you want and leave it.

18w DDCs (aka MCP35x, PMP400) have a higher head pressure making them better for loops with more restriction. They are also smaller, at least initially, but not-so-much after an aftermarket heatsink has been installed which is strongly recommended. The PWM DDCs are pretty dependable when setup to keep their speeds down.

There's also a 10w DDC version that doesn't suffer from the overheating issues. It has about the same head pressure as a D5 at a lower flow rate, and it's not as quiet.


----------



## setter

Few pics of my setup.




Gonna reroute the pcie and ATX cables through the grommets and get a bit cut out of the res bracket. Cant install it at present due to the length of the gpu.


----------



## doyll

Looks very nice indeed. :thumb:So 2 front and 1 bottom intakes with back and top exhaust?
The support under front of your desk really is close to top of case!.
I assume you blocked the unused top fan holes to keep heated exhaust from coming back into case.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sparkron*
> 
> Hey guys, I'm still in the theory crafting stage of my build, and thank god I read this thread. Soooo much good information here, you guys are amazing. It's taken me a solid week to get through the entire thread (and a significant amount of "work" time, oops!) but I'm super glad I did. I've changed from a 480 to a 420 rad at the top, and got heaps of ideas. I do have a few questions for you guys though.
> 
> 1. I'm definitely sold on the 420 rad at the top. Someone mentioned for the fill ports, that you need to pull the rad back a little to expose them. Does this effect the mounting of the rad? Does exposing the fill ports still allow the rad and fans to line up correctly with the mounts?


Guilty as charged







....it mounts just fine ..... just like the rear fan. If ya think about it this way .... if a 480 fits, it gives ta 60mm of "play".....look at the slots in the pics




Also, there is room in the from such that if ya wanted to mount a fan controller in the top 5.25 bat it does fit... at least the Reeven does.

Quote:


> 2. What fittings do I need to create that fill point off the top rad port mentioned in question 1? I see a 30mm fitting (I'll be using bitspower matte black but that's irrelevant). It seems they only come in female to female? Does that mean I need a tiny male to male piece to go between the port and extender? And do I then just put a stopper in the extender until I'm ready to fill?


Fitting is M X F - G1/4 30mm Fitting Extender - Bitspower G1/4 Male to Female Extender - 30mm - Matte Black (BP-MBWP-C63)
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/12340/ex-tub-777/Bitspower_G14_Male_to_Female_Extender_-_30mm_-_Matte_Black_BP-MBWP-C63.html?tl=c101s1354b145
Fill Port Plug - Bitspower G1/4" Low Profile Matte Black Stop Plug w/ O-Ring (BP-MBWP-C09)
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/10362/ex-tub-610/Bitspower_G14_Low_Profile_Matte_Black_Stop_Plug_w_O-Ring_BP-MBWP-C09.html



Quote:


> 3. I think you guys have convinced me to go for a 280 rad down the bottom, that way I can use one of the ports as a drain port (and for this I assume I just need a 90 deg fitting and QDC) and mount my pump where the bottom HDD cage was. And there entails my question, pump size. I'm going to be running a 4770K, 2x 780 Ti, 420 XT45 rad up top, 280 UT60 rad down bottom, and a 280 ST30 rad at the front/side. Everything overclocked as far as humanly possible. Will a MCP35x do the job here? Or should I upgrade to a MCP35x2? I'm leaning towards going for the x2 in order to get the system running quieter, but want to know if the single will handle the load as well.


I agree .... that's what I have and it more than does the job with twin 780s (25% OC) and 4770k at 4.6 Ghz. I chose a 35x2 because I was looking for an industrial looking build with rigid acrylic and fittings .... I even piped the GFX cards separately. In addition to be able to run super quiet due to the < 50% normal pump speed, I like the idea of redundancy. I used the 35x2 with Heat Sink mounted under the top HD cage..... I obtained a spare pump mount via donation and put the two of them on the alternate mounting location.



However, I'd hold off on the side panel ST30.

1. It is not needed .... I have twin 780s with a +200 Mhz OC and with furmark running and fans at full tilt (1185 rpm-ish), I'm at 8.4C Delta T .... and I just have fans in push ATM, no pulls.

2. You'll find the wiring fom HD cages gets quite tight back there.....I have just fans mounted there and no rad and spent an hour tying down cables so they wouldn't get hit by the fan blades.

As for the drain




Parts List is somewhere back in the thread but IIRC

One (1) G1/4" 90° Rotary Bend - Bitspower G1/4" Matte Black Rotary 90° G1/4" Adapter (BP-MB90R)
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/10376/ex-tub-629/Bitspower_G14_Matte_Black_Rotary_90_G14_Adapter_BP-MB90R.html?tl=c101s1306b145

One (1) Male by Male Extender - Bitspower Dual G1/4" Male / Male Fitting - Matte Black (BP-MBWP-C08)
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/10363/ex-tub-609/Bitspower_Dual_G14_Male_Male_Fitting_-_Matte_Black_BP-MBWP-C08.html?tl=c101s1354b145

One (1) Bitspower G1/4 Male to Female Extender - 40mm - Carbon Black (BP-CBWP-C64) *
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/22269/ex-tub-2486/Bitspower_G14_Male_to_Female_Extender_-_40mm_-_Carbon_Black_BP-CBWP-C64.html

One (1) Quick-Disconnect for Drain - Bitspower Matte Black Quick-Disconnected Male w/ Inner G1/4 (BP-MBQDMIG14)
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/17966/ex-tub-1636/Bitspower_Matte_Black_Quick-Disconnected_Male_w_Inner_G14_BP-MBQDMIG14.html

(One (1) Loctite Blue (apply to all threads on the horizontal run all the threads will turn instead of the QD..... Do *NOT* put any on the 90 bend into the rad.
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Loctite-0-2-fl-oz-Threadlocker-Blue-242-209728/100371826

I had 30mm and 10mm ones so used them instead of the 40mm

And for the part ya keep in a drawer ....

(one) Quick-Disconnect for Drain - Bitspower Matte Black Quick-Disconnected Female w/ G1/4 Thread (BP-MBQDFG14)
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/17965/ex-tub-1635/Bitspower_Matte_Black_Quick-Disconnected_Female_w_G14_Thread_BP-MBQDFG14.html

One (1) G1/4" x Compression Connector (Male) - Bitspower G1/4 Thread 3/8" ID x 1/2" OD Rotary Compression Fitting - Matte Black (BP-MBRCPF-CC2)
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/11107/ex-tub-700/Bitspower_G14_Thread_38_ID_x_12_OD_Rotary_Compression_Fitting_-_Matte_Black_BP-MBRCPF-CC2.html?tl=c409s1032b145

Ya may wanna add a 30mm extender fitting on this end to give ya some extra grip.... I had one left over and added it finding it very useful.

Quote:


> 4. Fans. Everyone says the Phanteks fans that come with the case are amazing. I need to order a few more fans for the rads, and they will be highly visible (top and bottom rad mounted, back of case exhaust). My issue is, I'm going for a red / black build, will the white fan blades all over the place be too controversial to the theme? What are some other really good 140mm fans in either black or red that might do the job?


They are ..... and color not an issue at all..... I went red / black in emulation of the RoG / Mushkin Red / Black coloring and my Red / Black 1978 Porsche 911 ..... However, as I built it, it was too much black and the white accents on the Asus M6F MoBo needed some company so I went with red / black / white cables, the white res and the Phanteks fans help brighten things up.
Quote:


> 5. Temp sensors. I have no idea on dimensions of these (have never water cooled before), can I simply bang one into a spare port on a rad? Or do I need to add a T block somewhere and do it that way?


I went with 6 of these (One for each rad in / rad out, one for ambient and one for case interior temps....dimensions are miniscule.

Temperature Probes Water - Bitspower G 1/4" Temperature Sensor Stop Fitting - Matte Black (BP-MBWP-CT)
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/10373/ex-tub-620/Bitspower_G_14_Temperature_Sensor_Stop_Fitting_-_Matte_Black_BP-MBWP-CT.html?tl=c229s579b145&id=kISyRgfV&mv_pc=643

Temps are displayed here

Fan Controller - Reeven RFC-01 Six Eyes Fan Controller - Black
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/21571/bus-366/Reeven_RFC-01_Six_Eyes_525_Bay_Fan_Controller_Temperature_Display_-_Black.html



Quote:


> 6. Will this EK supremacy fit for the socket 1150 i7 4770k? On the spec sheet it doesn't list socket 1150. Link below:
> http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=207_160_878_879&products_id=21128


I have it installed .... very much suggest the clear top tho..... came in very handy when I noticed paint flakes jammed in the micro-channels that had flaked off from fitting / rad threads.

CPU Water Block - EK Supremacy Universal CPU Liquid Cooling Block - Clean Plexi (EK-Supremacy Clean CSQ) - No Circles [3830046990808]
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/19628/ex-blc-1442/EK_Supremacy_Universal_CPU_Liquid_Cooling_Block_-_Clean_Plexi_EK-Supremacy_Clean_CSQ.html?tl=g57c603s1912
Quote:


> 7. Fan Controllers. I was originally looking at the FC5 v3, but the knobs won't fit and I don't want to push it back into the case (did I mention I love you guys for this thread? xD). I'm now looking at the lamptron CW611 and the Aquaero 6 XT. Can anyone shed some light on these as I'm struggling to find any reviews that give adequate info on these. I imagine the CW611 is very similar to the FC5 v3, just with 36W per channel. I would really like some info the Aquaero though, it looks super techy (which I love). And comes with a remote and software! The software really intrigues me, is it able to set the controller based off cpu temps?


The Reeven pictured above fits behind the door with buttons out if ya use the predrilled mounting hole which sets it in the frame back about 2mm..... however, the way they work is....press in and they stay in, press again and they pop out so ya can turn them. I just use them for display purposes so I can get readings. Fan control is redundant with the Phanteks PCB handling that load.

I currently have.....

MoBo CHA_1 header => Phanteks PCB_1 => 5 case fans
MoBo CHA_2 header => Phanteks PCB_2 => 5 rad push fans

One the PCBs are released as an accessory at end of April (was December, then January, then March), I will reconfigure

MoBo CHA_2 header => Phanteks PCB_2 => 6 rad push / pull fans for 420
MoBo CHA_3 header => Phanteks PCB_3 => 4 rad push / pull fans for 280

Quote:


> Sorry for all the questions guys!!


The only dumb question is the one not asked. Since we have very similar builds, feel free to yell or PM at your convenience. There's a pic of the system in my siggie below if ya wanna check the color thing.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Ummm, no way are DDCs quieter than D5s. It's the other way around.


I think this is a contextural thing ..... if ya read some of the tests like martins, there's something to the effect that a 35x2 running at 50% PWM is quieter than a d5 running full tilt. Seems this gets quoted a lot w/o the context.


----------



## Sparkron

Ahhh, now I can't decide between the D5 or the MCP35x2 >.>

Thanks so much for going into detail on the fittings for the QDC setup, very much appreciated =)

Now the only thing left is to choose the pumps. I think I'm going to get the Aquaero 6 XT fan controller, so I'll probably go for a PWM pump whichever one I go, and hopefully control it through software with that controller. That sounds like a fun little project.

If I was to go for a D5, what models do you guys recommend? Something like the Swiftech?
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/18222/ex-pmp-231/Swiftech_MCP655-PWM-DRIVE_12v_Water_Pump_-_PWM_Enabled_w_G14_Thread_Ports_Perfectly_Tapped.html?tl=g30c107s1802

Also, would there be any drawbacks to running two of these pumps in series with my loop? (keeping in mind the second GPU wont be here for another couple of months). I can always just turn them down for absolute silence yeah, no negative effects?


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sparkron*
> 
> Ahhh, now I can't decide between the D5 or the MCP35x2 >.>
> 
> Thanks so much for going into detail on the fittings for the QDC setup, very much appreciated =)
> 
> Now the only thing left is to choose the pumps. I think I'm going to get the Aquaero 6 XT fan controller, so I'll probably go for a PWM pump whichever one I go, and hopefully control it through software with that controller. That sounds like a fun little project.
> 
> If I was to go for a D5, what models do you guys recommend? Something like the Swiftech?
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/18222/ex-pmp-231/Swiftech_MCP655-PWM-DRIVE_12v_Water_Pump_-_PWM_Enabled_w_G14_Thread_Ports_Perfectly_Tapped.html?tl=g30c107s1802
> 
> Also, would there be any drawbacks to running two of these pumps in series with my loop? (keeping in mind the second GPU wont be here for another couple of months). I can always just turn them down for absolute silence yeah, no negative effects?


Nope no negative effects. This is exactly what I have 2 d5 PWM by swiftech and 2 ek tops (one single the other with the combo+reservoir). Get them sleeved unless you don't mind having those wires loose... d5 PWM if not connected to pwm header runs at 60% and it got its 12 v from molex. So, it is not only useful to have 2 pumps for safe back-up in case one fails but it also helps during bleeding since the additional head pressure/flow makes easier to fill all rads and get hid of any bubbles. d5 PWM seems to be one of the most quite pumps around. Right now I have mine two at 40% (2400 rpm) and flow is around 0.6 gpm which is just fine and you can not hear it. While Laing does do PWM d5 I am not sure why usually you don't see other companies sell d5 PWM besides Swiftech. Here is a shot of my loop still with the dual top on it:


----------



## setter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Looks very nice indeed. :thumb:So 2 front and 1 bottom intakes with back and top exhaust?
> The support under front of your desk really is close to top of case!.
> I assume you blocked the unused top fan holes to keep heated exhaust from coming back into case.


Yeah mate, the case is extremely close to the support bar. Ive thought about putting the case on the desk, however it may be a bit heavy for it. Currently theres a 24" lcd monitor and a 32" lcd tv which are pretty heavy.

Regarding the top exhaust, i may be fitting another exhaust up there so that would only leave 2 areas to cover. But tbh im very impressed with temps so far. Playing bf4 last night and the cpu temps maxed at 62c, (4.5ghz oc on cpu). Usually in the shinobi xl i was seeing 66/67c max. Airflow with the sp fans in front is very good, would be even better if the lower hdd cage was removed as i only have three hdd's installed. Bottom fan helps to move a bit of the heat from the gpu, (non reference cooled card). Ive thought about putting another sp in place of the current alpenfohn red clover, but i quite like the visible red frame ring on that fan.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sparkron*
> 
> Ahhh, now I can't decide between the D5 or the MCP35x2 >.>
> 
> Thanks so much for going into detail on the fittings for the QDC setup, very much appreciated =)
> 
> Now the only thing left is to choose the pumps. I think I'm going to get the Aquaero 6 XT fan controller, so I'll probably go for a PWM pump whichever one I go, and hopefully control it through software with that controller. That sounds like a fun little project.
> 
> If I was to go for a D5, what models do you guys recommend? Something like the Swiftech?
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/18222/ex-pmp-231/Swiftech_MCP655-PWM-DRIVE_12v_Water_Pump_-_PWM_Enabled_w_G14_Thread_Ports_Perfectly_Tapped.html?tl=g30c107s1802
> 
> Also, would there be any drawbacks to running two of these pumps in series with my loop? (keeping in mind the second GPU wont be here for another couple of months). I can always just turn them down for absolute silence yeah, no negative effects?


It will depend on your future plans ..... the more stuff ya think ya may have in ya loop, the more I'd lean to the 35x2....the more flow / pressure ya want, the more I'd lean to the 35x2. At idle, I run at about 0.75 gpm with Delta T of 2.3C.... when gaming, I'll get about 1.5 gpm which puts about 0.75 gpm @ 2250 rpm thru each GFX WB.... Furmark will bring me up to about 1.75 gpm ..... if CPU hits 70, pump goes to full speed (2.25 gpm)

Looking at Martin's 35x2 test

http://martinsliquidlab.org/2012/01/29/swiftech-mcp35x2-pump/6/

He shows the range of pressures from a low restriction loop to high at about 2.25 gpm @ 5 psi (low restriction loop) to like 1.0 gpm 7.6 psi (high restriction loop) at 50% PWM. Picking a curve "in the middle" for average restriction at 50% PWM gives ya.

1.0 gpm @ 7.2 psi
1.5 gpm @ 6.6 psi
1.75 gpm @ 6.2 psi

Even with a bump to 60% PWM the MCP 655 can't get anywhere near those numbers.....to see what 2 655's can do just double the numbers on the Y axis.

http://martinsliquidlab.org/2012/12/25/swiftech-mcp-655-pwm-drive-pump-review/4/

0.5 gpm @ 4.2 psi
1.0 gpm @ 3.2 psi
1.5 gpm @ 2.8 psi
2.0 gpm @ 2.2 psi

At 80% PWM, you do a bit better

0.5 gpm @ 6.6 psi
1.0 gpm @ 5.8 psi
1.5 gpm @ 5.2 psi
2.0 gpm @ 4.8 psi

At 50% PWM with the 35x2, I have @ 1.5 gpm and 6.7 psi, which is 0.75 gpm going thru each GFX WB which does well. With twin 655's, I figured I would need to be about 90% PWM to do that. So, between the 35x2 @ 50% PWM and the 655s at 90% PWM, I went with the 35x2.

The aquero is an amazing device ..... but after 100+ hours of pump and fan curve tweaking, I can say:

a) I learned a ton from all the testing and dispelled many WC myths.
b) Fan control in a system such as yours / mine, from a "logical PoV", has no "real" significance from a user perspective.

Yes, I know you are shocked but what is the purpose of fan control ? If the idea is to minimize sound noise when the cooling is not needed, given the following:

-Delta T under Furmark stress testing results in Delta T of 8.4C at 1185 rpm.
-Fans become audible at just under 900 rpm (with side panels off)
-At 850 rpm, Furmark can get me to 12.4 - 12.8 Delta T (~25 % above my target but of no real impact on anything)
-Adding the push fans when the Phanteks PCB is available, will knock that down to my original 10C Delta T target which was based on fans in P/P to begin with.
-My fans now operate between 325 and 850 rpm under all loads except synthetic benchmarks, even when stress testing with application based stress tests like RoG Real Bench

So..... given the above, how would my user experience change if I just left the fans fixed at 850 rpm and was done with it ? From a user experience standpoint, since the fans are inaudible at all points between 325 and 850 rpm, I gain nothing by slowing them down. Of course I'd miss all the fun of experimentation and the lessons I have learned but that doesn't change the user experience.

That being said, I'd look at it from a "what do you gain from the $250 investment ?" perspective....

Will your machine run any quieter ? No, at least not that you can hear
Will your machine run any cooler ? No, at least not that is of any significance
Will it provide any additional info ? Yes, but is any of it not available thru other means or is it of any usable value ?
Will give gives you hours and hours of geeky enjoyment ? Very much a yes









You can control your 35x2 or twin D5's of the MoBo CPU and CPU_OPT headers.
You can control all ya fans with CPU and / or CHA headers on your MoBo and the Phanteks PCBs

So if ya getting for the fun of experimentation and learning about ya system's working by all means go for it (budget permitting). If ya getting it to control noise or because ya think ya need it...... ya don't...... last thing I will say is I did have it (the Aquero 5) on my list and decided to put off the purchase till the version 6 came out. By the time it did come out, I was a bit put off by the learning curve I kept reading about in the reviews and was satisfied enough with the info I was getting from the Asus FanXpert2 software to the point where I didn't see any value. Of course, when I have gone as far as I can with what I got, and get bored ..... I'm likely to develop reasons why I "need" to have it







.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Welcome mate. Sounds like you will end up with a similar loop like mine. Uni and Gunilla already point you to very good directions.
> 
> 1) Yes, you have room to control the position of your 420 mm rad on top. Here is what I found. Mine have the ports facing front (is a xt 45 so I have 6 ports).


My XT45-420 , and UT60-280, have 7 ports.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *setter*
> 
> Gonna reroute the pcie and ATX cables through the grommets and get a bit cut out of the res bracket. Cant install it at present due to the length of the gpu.


How long is that GFX card ? I know the original one is 11.5 or about 0.9" too long but mounted in ya case, it looks shorter.....certainly doesn't look 1.9" longer than ya MoBo.

I have the 780s in 2 & 3 / 5 & 6 and they fit at 10.5" long with 2-3mm to spare.

As for ya siggie build list..... you do mean that you are using one (1) Gigabyte REV2.0 GeForce GTX 780 3GB WindForce *3X* 450W Video Card and not three (3) of them I assume, the x3 at the end had me thinking you had two more going in which of course would be a no-go with the M6F.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> It will depend on your future plans ..... the more stuff ya think ya may have in ya loop, the more I'd lean to the 35x2....the more flow / pressure ya want, the more I'd lean to the 35x2. At idle, I run at about 0.75 gpm with Delta T of 2.3C.... when gaming, I'll get about 1.5 gpm which puts about 0.75 gpm @ 2250 rpm thru each GFX WB.... Furmark will bring me up to about 1.75 gpm ..... if CPU hits 70, pump goes to full speed (2.25 gpm)
> 
> Looking at Martin's 35x2 test
> 
> http://martinsliquidlab.org/2012/01/29/swiftech-mcp35x2-pump/6/
> 
> He shows the range of pressures from a low restriction loop to high at about 2.25 gpm @ 5 psi (low restriction loop) to like 1.0 gpm 7.6 psi (high restriction loop) at 50% PWM. Picking a curve "in the middle" for average restriction at 50% PWM gives ya.
> 
> 1.0 gpm @ 7.2 psi
> 1.5 gpm @ 6.6 psi
> 1.75 gpm @ 6.2 psi
> 
> Even with a bump to 60% PWM the MCP 655 can't get anywhere near those numbers.....to see what 2 655's can do just double the numbers on the Y axis.
> 
> http://martinsliquidlab.org/2012/12/25/swiftech-mcp-655-pwm-drive-pump-review/4/
> 
> 0.5 gpm @ 4.2 psi
> 1.0 gpm @ 3.2 psi
> 1.5 gpm @ 2.8 psi
> 2.0 gpm @ 2.2 psi
> 
> At 80% PWM, you do a bit better
> 
> 0.5 gpm @ 6.6 psi
> 1.0 gpm @ 5.8 psi
> 1.5 gpm @ 5.2 psi
> 2.0 gpm @ 4.8 psi
> 
> At 50% PWM with the 35x2, I have @ 1.5 gpm and 6.7 psi, which is 0.75 gpm going thru each GFX WB which does well. With twin 655's, I figured I would need to be about 90% PWM to do that. So, between the 35x2 @ 50% PWM and the 655s at 90% PWM, I went with the 35x2.
> 
> The aquero is an amazing device ..... but after 100+ hours of pump and fan curve tweaking, I can say:
> 
> a) I learned a ton from all the testing and dispelled many WC myths.
> b) Fan control in a system such as yours / mine, from a "logical PoV", has no "real" significance from a user perspective.
> 
> Yes, I know you are shocked but what is the purpose of fan control ? If the idea is to minimize sound noise when the cooling is not needed, given the following:
> 
> -Delta T under Furmark stress testing results in Delta T of 8.4C at 1185 rpm.
> -Fans become audible at just under 900 rpm (with side panels off)
> -At 850 rpm, Furmark can get me to 12.4 - 12.8 Delta T (~25 % above my target but of no real impact on anything)
> -Adding the push fans when the Phanteks PCB is available, will knock that down to my original 10C Delta T target which was based on fans in P/P to begin with.
> -My fans now operate between 325 and 850 rpm under all loads except synthetic benchmarks, even when stress testing with application based stress tests like RoG Real Bench
> 
> So..... given the above, how would my user experience change if I just left the fans fixed at 850 rpm and was done with it ? From a user experience standpoint, since the fans are inaudible at all points between 325 and 850 rpm, I gain nothing by slowing them down. Of course I'd miss all the fun of experimentation and the lessons I have learned but that doesn't change the user experience.
> 
> That being said, I'd look at it from a "what do you gain from the $250 investment ?" perspective....
> 
> Will your machine run any quieter ? No, at least not that you can hear
> Will your machine run any cooler ? No, at least not that is of any significance
> Will it provide any additional info ? Yes, but is any of it not available thru other means or is it of any usable value ?
> Will give gives you hours and hours of geeky enjoyment ? Very much a yes
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can control your 35x2 or twin D5's of the MoBo CPU and CPU_OPT headers.
> You can control all ya fans with CPU and / or CHA headers on your MoBo and the Phanteks PCBs
> 
> So if ya getting for the fun of experimentation and learning about ya system's working by all means go for it (budget permitting). If ya getting it to control noise or because ya think ya need it...... ya don't...... last thing I will say is I did have it (the Aquero 5) on my list and decided to put off the purchase till the version 6 came out. By the time it did come out, I was a bit put off by the learning curve I kept reading about in the reviews and was satisfied enough with the info I was getting from the Asus FanXpert2 software to the point where I didn't see any value. Of course, when I have gone as far as I can with what I got, and get bored ..... I'm likely to develop reasons why I "need" to have it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> My XT45-420 , and UT60-280, have 7 ports.






Some have six mate *(or was only the 480 model that have such inconsistency of 6 x 7) but in any case* it is a drain port not a port that should be used in a loop.

bold = latter edit


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Some have six mate *(or was only the 480 model that have such inconsistency of 6 x 7) but in any case* it is a drain port not a port that should be used in a loop.


Yes, I have been trying to determine for some time which ones have the 6 and which ones have the 7...... is the 6 the current model or is the 7 ? All the original reviews that is aw had 6, so I assumed 7 was current. The reason I mentioned it is that the original port question was with regard to temperature ports whereby, if ya want average rad water temp, this is prolly the best spot to put it. In the typical installation, this puts it closer to the Fan Controller , temp display, MoBo sensor also.

Whenever I can mange, I'll use ....

Top Rad - Tops Ports = Fill / Bleed / Side Ports = Temp Sensors / Bottom Ports = Loop connections

Bottom Rad - Tops Ports = Loop connections / Side Ports = Temp Sensors / Bottom Ports = Drain


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> Yes, I have been trying to determine for some time which ones have the 6 and which ones have the 7...... is the 6 the current model or is the 7 ? All the original reviews that is aw had 6, so I assumed 7 was current. The reason I mentioned it is that the original port question was with regard to temperature ports whereby, if ya want average rad water temp, this is prolly the best spot to put it. In the typical installation, this puts it closer to the Fan Controller , temp display, MoBo sensor also.
> 
> Whenever I can mange, I'll use ....
> 
> Top Rad - Tops Ports = Fill / Bleed / Side Ports = Temp Sensors / Bottom Ports = Loop connections
> 
> Bottom Rad - Tops Ports = Loop connections / Side Ports = Temp Sensors / Bottom Ports = Drain


Yep agree with the use of that ports on both tops and bottom position. Both my 480 and 420 came with 7 ports so I lean forward to an update on part of OCool to include the 7 ports but it is all speculation on my part no solid fact or official Ocool docs proving it. The temp probe can be installed as you pointed both on the side drain port or on the side ports of the 7 ports version. The 7 ports give you more versatility since if the "normal" ports are facing front you can place the temp either rear or front (I would favor front cause is close to the fan controller) and the same goes with the normal ports facing rear.


----------



## setter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> How long is that GFX card ? I know the original one is 11.5 or about 0.9" too long but mounted in ya case, it looks shorter.....certainly doesn't look 1.9" longer than ya MoBo.
> 
> I have the 780s in 2 & 3 / 5 & 6 and they fit at 10.5" long with 2-3mm to spare.
> 
> As for ya siggie build list..... you do mean that you are using one (1) Gigabyte REV2.0 GeForce GTX 780 3GB WindForce *3X* 450W Video Card and not three (3) of them I assume, the x3 at the end had me thinking you had two more going in which of course would be a no-go with the M6F.


The card is the rev 1.0 windforce model, 11.5" long going by a few reviews. And yes, just currently the single 780, the x3 refers to the 3 fans that it uses. Prior to this i ran sli gtx 670 windforce cards. The formula is actually a pretty nicely spaced board for multi gpu, it looks like a small gap compared to some boards but in the flesh its quite good.


----------



## Sparkron

In the end i still couldn't decide, i ended up going for 2x Swiftech MCP D5s. I may change later on but we will see, it should do the job.

As for the fan controller, it's the "hours of geeky enjoyment" I'm after xD

I know its way over the top and unnecessary, but it will be fun







. I cant wait to hook up all my pumps, fans, LEDs, and play with the software options.

Typing this I now realise I forgot to order the waterblock for the Aquaero. ****.


----------



## paulyoung

Is this any good for you Doyl, I've got some on order for an idea I have to use it as a grill for a bottom rad shroud.


----------



## The Redtide

I have on hand or have ordered pretty much all I need to begin my Primo build. What I hadn't decided on yet was tubing/crystal and the pumps. Am still up in the air on tubing/crystal, but was leaning heavily towards D5 Varios in series. Per Jack it appears that either a pair of 35x2s or D5s that are PWMs might be a much better way to go as far as ease of controllability and keeping fan noise to a minimum.

Setup will be: pump(s) > UT60 280 > 2 x GPU in series > XT45 420 > CPU > res > pump(s)

Both radiators will be push/pull.

What pump setup would work the best or is all that is needed for this loop?

This is my first WC build. Y'all have provided me a wealth of information with your posts/photos - Thanks.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paulyoung*
> 
> Is this any good for you Doyl, I've got some on order for an idea I have to use it as a grill for a bottom rad shroud.


Am I going half-blind? I can read your message but that's all I can see.









If it is here is must be almost no airflow restriction if it can't be seen.


----------



## paulyoung

Oh bugger, here it is again.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1-0mm-Aluminium-Perforated-Sheet-9-Popular-Sizes-Precision-Guillotine-Cut-/291025744754?pt=UK_BOI_Metalworking_Milling_Welding_Metalworking_Supplies_ET&var=590190624932&hash=item43c27c7372


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paulyoung*
> 
> Oh bugger, here it is again.
> 
> http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1-0mm-Aluminium-Perforated-Sheet-9-Popular-Sizes-Precision-Guillotine-Cut-/291025744754?pt=UK_BOI_Metalworking_Milling_Welding_Metalworking_Supplies_ET&var=590190624932&hash=item43c27c7372


I see! I see!








Thanks.
I think that is still too restrictive.

I'm looking for something like the middle mesh below; the H4.5 T5 mesh. 3/16" hexagonal hole with 7/32" spacing which is 4.5mm hexagonal holes with 5mm spacing 1mm thick mild steel 1000x2000mm size. I've found it and am waiting for price quote. Size of 1 x 2 meters is quite large. Way more than I need.









Hexagonal Hole

Hexagonal holes 4.5mm;
Staggered pitch 5mm
Hole: H4.5
Pitch: T5
Material Thickness (mm): 1.0
Open Area 81%


Problem is it's in 1 x 2 meter sheets.


----------



## paulyoung

The bottom one, looks to me like a solid wire mesh, you can get that in sheets from good diy /garden centers it's used to put on the bottom of gates for dogs. They do it in various sizes. Another idea is, in B&Q they do those kits to make those radiator box things to cover them up, you can get all sorts of mesh there to.


----------



## doyll

The bottom one has holes are 0.2463" with hex frame 0.0276" x 0.039" thick.

The R4.5H5 is 0.177" holes with hex frame 0.02" x 0.039" thick.
Dimension: 1,00 x 1000 x 2000 mm
Perforation: H 4,5 T 5 DIN 24041
Open area: 81,00%

The R6H6.7 is 0.236" holes with hex frame 0.0276" x 0.039" thick
Dimension: 1,00 x 1000 x 2000 mm
Perforation: H 6 T 6,7 DIN 24041
Open area: 80,00%

Top grill is 190x530mm and 0.68mm thick
Front is 160x280mm

If anyone is interested I could do a group buy of a sheet and cut it into pieces 200 x 1000 mm l for about £10.00 plus post.

Will need to figure out which size mesh is best.


----------



## CoopsTHC

Not yet complete.


----------



## doyll

Looking very nice! Love the white accent .


----------



## Leeford

Hi,
I am planning my first WC build and settled on the Enthoo Primo. I don't have the case yet as I am waiting for the special editions to become available for pre-order. Since this is going to be a learning experience for me, I have decided to first try a low noise, low fan count, and Push or Pull rather than Push/'Pull. I have decided about much of the hardware. This what I want to try first:

Loop will be the CPU and GPU
Total fan count = 8x 140mm Phanteks
420 45mm radiator in top
280 60mm radiator in bottom

But I am really struggling with how I want to do the airflow.
Fan Placements = 2x front case, 1x rear case , 2x bottom radiator , and 3 fans top radiator.

So Obviously the front and bottom will be intakes and the single rear fan will be exhaust, but what I am strugging on is what to for with the airflow for the top radiator fans. Due to extreme dust in my house, I MUST HAVE positive case pressure. If I use the top radiator as exhaust, I would be at 4 intakes and 4 exhausts. But I think I would have a slightly negative case pressure due to the fact that the intakes are slightly hindered with more filters and the exhausts are going thru a thinner radiator. So this, along with the school of thought about using outside air as radiator air flow, I thought I might also use the top radiator as intake. But that just leaves one single case fan, and all of the honeycomb vents as exhaust. I have an immediate knee jerk reaction to 7 intakes and 1 exhaust but with all the honeycomb venting in this case, I am wondering if it would be ok. Below is a image I took from another forum describing the exact situation. But I was wonder if anyone in the club has done it like this with this specific case and what their experience was.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Leeford*
> 
> Hi,
> I am planning my first WC build and settled on the Enthoo Primo. I don't have the case yet as I am waiting for the special editions to become available for pre-order. Since this is going to be a learning experience for me, I have decided to first try a low noise, low fan count, and Push or Pull rather than Push/'Pull. I have decided about much of the hardware. This what I want to try first:
> 
> Loop will be the CPU and GPU
> Total fan count = 8x 140mm Phanteks
> 420 45mm radiator in top
> 280 60mm radiator in bottom
> 
> But I am really struggling with how I want to do the airflow.
> Fan Placements = 2x front case, 1x rear case , 2x bottom radiator , and 3 fans top radiator.
> 
> So Obviously the front and bottom will be intakes and the single rear fan will be exhaust, but what I am strugging on is what to for with the airflow for the top radiator fans. Due to extreme dust in my house, I MUST HAVE positive case pressure. If I use the top radiator as exhaust, I would be at 4 intakes and 4 exhausts. But I think I would have a slightly negative case pressure due to the fact that the intakes are slightly hindered with more filters and the exhausts are going thru a thinner radiator. So this, along with the school of thought about using outside air as radiator air flow, I thought I might also use the top radiator as intake. But that just leaves one single case fan, and all of the honeycomb vents as exhaust. I have an immediate knee jerk reaction to 7 intakes and 1 exhaust but with all the honeycomb venting in this case, I am wondering if it would be ok. Below is a image I took from another forum describing the exact situation. But I was wonder if anyone in the club has done it like this with this specific case and what their experience was.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!




Taking into account that you "MUST HAVE positive case pressure" from the filtered intakes that's definitely your better option, assuming you are going to be using the fan hub and all of the fans will be going at the same speeds.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> I see! I see!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks.
> I think that is still too restrictive.
> 
> I'm looking for something like the middle mesh below; the H4.5 T5 mesh. 3/16" hexagonal hole with 7/32" spacing which is 4.5mm hexagonal holes with 5mm spacing 1mm thick mild steel 1000x2000mm size. I've found it and am waiting for price quote. Size of 1 x 2 meters is quite large. Way more than I need.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hexagonal Hole
> 
> Hexagonal holes 4.5mm;
> Staggered pitch 5mm
> Hole: H4.5
> Pitch: T5
> Material Thickness (mm): 1.0
> Open Area 81%
> 
> 
> Problem is it's in 1 x 2 meter sheets.


Talking to a guy with a 3D printer about making custom grills out of plastic.








Here's a sample he made for his build.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> [/SPOILER]
> Talking to a guy with a 3D printer about making custom grills out of plastic.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's a sample he made for his build.


Looks a bit like some of Coldzero's stuff.

http://www.coldzero.eu/234-dual-layer-grills


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Looks a bit like some of Coldzero's stuff.
> 
> http://www.coldzero.eu/234-dual-layer-grills


It does. What I show above has a small hex size I think.

Spec of mesh I think I want is H4.5T5 or H6T6.7.
H = flat to flat of Hexagon
T = center to center of hexagons.

Web width is T - H so 0.5mm for H4.5T5 and0 .7mm for H6T6.7.

Not sure how thick to make it. Stock mesh is 0.71mm thick.

EP top gril is 10mm thick.
Maybe get 2 pieces and sandwich a filter between them. Top 1mm thick and bottom 9mm or slightly less to accommodate filter media. Could do similar on front grill.

Maybe something similar on right side strip between case and light strip?


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sparkron*
> 
> As for the fan controller, it's the "hours of geeky enjoyment" I'm after xD
> 
> I know its way over the top and unnecessary, but it will be fun
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . I cant wait to hook up all my pumps, fans, LEDs, and play with the software options..


Nothing wrong with that







.... I also fall int the same "guilty as charged" classification !

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The Redtide*
> 
> What I hadn't decided on yet was tubing/crystal and the pumps. Am still up in the air on tubing/crystal, but was leaning heavily towards D5 Varios in series. Per Jack it appears that either a pair of 35x2s or D5s that are PWMs might be a much better way to go as far as ease of controllability and keeping fan noise to a minimum.
> 
> Setup will be: pump(s) > UT60 280 > 2 x GPU in series > XT45 420 > CPU > res > pump(s)
> 
> Both radiators will be push/pull.
> 
> What pump setup would work the best or is all that is needed for this loop?
> 
> This is my first WC build. Y'all have provided me a wealth of information with your posts/photos - Thanks.


Clarification .... "a pair of 35x2's" is 4 pumps..... the 35x2 is two 35x's pre-mounted with a common top. .... if ya go that way don't forget the heat sink.

Pump(s) - Swiftech Dual Extreme Duty Small Form Factor 12 VDC Industrial PWM Pump - Black (MCP35X2-BK)
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/14961/ex-pmp-173/Swiftech_Dual_Extreme_Duty_Small_Form_Factor_12_VDC_Industrial_PWM_Pump_-_Black_MCP35X2-BK.html

Pump Heat Sink - Swiftech MCP35x2 Dual Pump Heatsink (MCP35X2-HS)
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/16233/ex-pmp-195/Swiftech_MCP35x2_Dual_Pump_Heatsink_MCP35X2-HS.html

Heat Sink Fan - Noiseblocker NB-BlackSilentPro PC-P 80mm x 15mm Ultra Silent PWM Fan - 2500 RPM
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/image/16392/fan-1017_4.jpg/fan-1017/Noiseblocker_NB-BlackSilentPro_PC-P_80mm_x_15mm_Ultra_Silent_PWM_Fan_-_2500_RPM.html

As for what's best, that's a personal decision. Check the numbers in my previous post .... IIRC, for the exact same loop, for me it came down to two D5s at 90% PWM or the 35x2 at 50% PWM ....I went with the latter cause it had more oomph and at typical full load", it would on;y be at 50% rpm so less wear and tear and less noise. However, if you are doing GPUs in series, that's more reason to go with the 35x2 .... I went parallel but otherwise everything is same.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Leeford*
> 
> Hi,
> I am planning my first WC build and settled on the Enthoo Primo. I don't have the case yet as I am waiting for the special editions to become available for pre-order. Since this is going to be a learning experience for me, I have decided to first try a low noise, low fan count, and Push or Pull rather than Push/'Pull. I have decided about much of the hardware. This what I want to try first:
> 
> Loop will be the CPU and GPU
> Total fan count = 8x 140mm Phanteks
> 420 45mm radiator in top
> 280 60mm radiator in bottom
> 
> But I am really struggling with how I want to do the airflow.
> Fan Placements = 2x front case, 1x rear case , 2x bottom radiator , and 3 fans top radiator.
> 
> So Obviously the front and bottom will be intakes and the single rear fan will be exhaust, but what I am strugging on is what to for with the airflow for the top radiator fans. Due to extreme dust in my house, I MUST HAVE positive case pressure. If I use the top radiator as exhaust, I would be at 4 intakes and 4 exhausts. But I think I would have a slightly negative case pressure due to the fact that the intakes are slightly hindered with more filters and the exhausts are going thru a thinner radiator. So this, along with the school of thought about using outside air as radiator air flow, I thought I might also use the top radiator as intake. But that just leaves one single case fan, and all of the honeycomb vents as exhaust. I have an immediate knee jerk reaction to 7 intakes and 1 exhaust but with all the honeycomb venting in this case, I am wondering if it would be ok. Below is a image I took from another forum describing the exact situation. But I was wonder if anyone in the club has done it like this with this specific case and what their experience was.


I also decided to first try a low noise, low fan count, ..... Push rather than Push / Pull. and also have:

Total fan count = 8x 140mm Phanteks - I went with 10 ..... 3 LED on top / 2 LED in front / 2 on side / 2 on bottom / 1 at rear
420 45mm radiator in top - I have AlphaCool XT5-420 in push
280 60mm radiator in bottom - I have AlphaCool UT60-420 in push

Should be no struggle, every cfm of air in will get out. Ya want all rad fans blowing in the front blowing in and rear blowing out will be fine. Tho, I'd disagree that you unequivocally NEED to have positive case pressure, given the number of fans being 8, it's unavoidable with 5 rad fans blowing in. Yes, positive pressure makes everything much easier as Phanteks has nicely provided filtering on all inlet locations (even the PSU intake) but you could if so inclined filter all the grilles also. I like to make this point for one purpose and it relates directly to your " intakes are slightly hindered" statement:

It is far more important to have all inlets filtered, than it is to have positive case pressure. The word slightly does not apply with respect to the hindrance. Doyyl was the 1st to comment on this at the bottom intake and in testing how his observations affected by installation (less so because I only had a 280, not a 480), I found that the Phanteks grilles and filters present a very high restriction on air flow at the top also. So ya might be tempted to remove some of them. But .... and now we get to the meat of the pressure thing ..... positive pressure without filtering all inlets will not prevent dust buildup.

I wrestled with the IN versus OUT question a bit when considering how to mount the side panel fans ....

1) That would make 9 IN and 1 OUT ,,,,, and if the mounting locations were at the top, I mighta gone that way
2) Using them as OUTs would just short circuit teh flow from the intakes fans at the front.

With no restriction the exhaust grilles provide enough free area to make ya 7 IN fans quite happy.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Not sure how thick to make it. Stock mesh is 0.71mm thick.
> 
> EP top gril is 10mm thick.
> Maybe get 2 pieces and sandwich a filter between them. Top 1mm thick and bottom 9mm or slightly less to accommodate filter media. Could do similar on front grill.
> 
> Maybe something similar on right side strip between case and light strip?


I think I measured 0.74mm on the EP mesh .... but I only measured a flap after unbending, so the bend may have it off by a few hundredths. Looks to be relatively standard (0.7 - 0.8) for mesh .... The Modder's Mesh steel stuff was 22 gauge or 0.0299 inches (0.76 mm)....aluminum gauges are slightly thinner ....saw some of those on car grille sites.

One of the things holding me back from changing though was ..... how hard is it to get out the thin strips along the sides of front and top panels and how well will the hex bend around the corners ?


----------



## Leeford

Thanks Jack. That makes me feel better


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> I think I measured 0.74mm on the EP mesh .... but I only measured a flap after unbending, so the bend may have it off by a few hundredths. Looks to be relatively standard (0.7 - 0.8) for mesh .... The Modder's Mesh steel stuff was 22 gauge or 0.0299 inches (0.76 mm)....aluminum gauges are slightly thinner ....saw some of those on car grille sites.
> 
> One of the things holding me back from changing though was ..... how hard is it to get out the thin strips along the sides of front and top panels and how well will the hex bend around the corners ?


With 3D printer a new top panel to match original latch and keepings would be nor big deal.
Make the hex pattern like empty honeycomb about 10mm thick in two layers. Bottom 7-8mm and top 2mm with filter media between them giving top a 2mm relief.
Front would be vent to fit into existing opening.
Front side grill would be beveled as needed on side up over power led toward top of side frame (same relief on fans and top) and fit right over the stock grill.
Top grill would fit same way but end with a vertical edge in back of I/O sockets.
Both of these could have same 2mm face with thinner back to match or relief into side frame.

Look something like this
http://us.123rf.com/400wm/400/400/nataart/nataart0907/nataart090700007/5243596-combs.jpg


----------



## Strider49

Hi,

A few weeks ago I made my first post here saying that I was divided between going air or water on this case. Well, I've made my decision and I'm going water on the CPU for now (GPU will be added to the loop in the coming months and that'll be it).

I have been learning about WC on the web and pretty much have already decided what components I should get. So, now I have some questions for you about radiator compatibility and fans suitability.

Will the Alphacool UT60 360 fit in the top of the case in a push/pull configuration (I'm just getting 3 fans for now, but would like to add more in the future)? If not, should I consider the 360 or 480 XT45 instead?

Which one is better and by how much? UT60 in pull or XT45 in push/pull?

I'm planning on pairing the Alphacool UT60 with NoiseBlocker's eLoop B12-3 120mm fans rated @1900 RPM. Do these make a good match or not? Are they among the best ones for the money?

Cheers


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Strider49*
> 
> Hi,
> 
> A few weeks ago I made my first post here saying that I was divided between going air or water on this case. Well, I've made my decision and I'm going water on the CPU for now (GPU will be added to the loop in the coming months and that'll be it).
> 
> I have been learning about WC on the web and pretty much have already decided what components I should get. So, now I have some questions for you about radiator compatibility and fans suitability.
> 
> Will the Alphacool UT60 360 fit in the top of the case in a push/pull configuration (I'm just getting 3 fans for now, but would like to add more in the future)? If not, should I consider the 360 or 480 XT45 instead?
> 
> Which one is better and by how much? UT60 in pull or XT45 in push/pull?
> 
> I'm planning on pairing the Alphacool UT60 with NoiseBlocker's eLoop B12-3 120mm fans rated @1900 RPM. Do these make a good match or not? Are they among the best ones for the money?
> 
> Cheers


The ut60 will certainly fit in pull. It will fit too in push/pull but might be a little bit uncomfortable for the cpu power PSU lanes usually on top of the motherboards. My bet is a UT 60 360 push/pull x a 480 xt45 push/pull the latter will be a better performer. In general more rad space will beat less space but thicker rads. In fact I would recommend going with xt45 420 mm (3x 140 mm) and use the Phateeks fans that comes with the case (get some extra) and put it in push/pull at only 40% v. That would be almost inaudible and an incredible performer while still having room left on top for fan controllers.

As for noiseblockers they are good fans. Check Martin's page you will have wonderful resources there (from fan testing to loop planing and rad space dissipation numbers) as well as pumps testing and so on.

http://martinsliquidlab.org/2012/04/12/alphacool-nexxxos-ut60-360-radiator/

Good luck and if you need any help just ask here or shoot a PM


----------



## Leeford

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Strider49*
> 
> Hi,
> 
> Which one is better and by how much? UT60 in pull or XT45 in push/pull?


Concerning this specific question from your post, from the research I have done, having push/pull generally gives you a better performance by roughly 20% as sort of a baseline generalization. So generally speaking a push/pull thru a 45 will probably give you a slightly better performance than push thru a 60mm radiator. But there are several other factors that diminish that generalization.

First, fan speed & pressure majorly impacts radiator performance. From one test I read, pushing air a low speed thru a 80mm monsta had almost no improvement vs pushing air at low speed thru a 60mm. However, if a higher air speed is passed thru both, the 80mm would start to become a better performer. That makes sense when you think about it. But that does not mean the performance with the same fans on 60mm vs 45mm behave the same way. You will see greater performance on low rpms thru a 60mm than a 45mm.

So the point I am trying to make is air speed from fan rpms/pressure is a variable that is missing from your equation of "Radiator Thickness & Number of fans".

Me? I am going with Push only with low rpm fans on 140mm form factor radiators, so my top rad in this case is going to be a 45mm just in case I ever want to add Pull fans as down the road (60mm 140mm form factor rads wont fit in the top in push/pull) But if I was going with 120mm form factor I would go with the 60mm rads regardless of fans, as you can even go 80mm in that form factor with push/pull on top.


----------



## kangk81

Hi there,

I've recently completed my Primoo build. It look a little ugly right now because I ran out of red tubing and had to use the clear ones I have on hand.

I'm thinking to go for acrylic tubings in the near future.


Yup... Dem ugly tubings....


2x XSPC X20 bay pump/res. Will be change the LEDs to red ones soon


360mm rads in push-pull on top and bottom


Homemade case dolly. Made from 4 castors and a piece of 600mm x 300mm laminated compressed board

I'm still waiting for the sleeved cable extensions to arrive. if you're wondering about the ugly cables.


----------



## rpjkw11

I really like your homemade dolly. Looks easy to make with the few tools I have on hand. Does it roll easily without the case moving around or, worse, wanting to slide off the dolly? Not that I'd be moving mine, but I'm sometimes an accident waiting to happen, and I do have my 17" gaming lappy that I use on our back balcony.


----------



## kangk81

The rubber pads at the bottom of the case prevents slipping coupled with the weight of the build, I guess slipping is close to impossible.

As for the wheels, mine are 1in nylon. So far I have no problems rolling them around my room.




It real simple. 4 wheels and a few screws with a cordless screw driver. I fitted the wheels 1in from the edges.


----------



## liberato87

hi guys!
here's my enthoo primo!
liquid cooling by alphacool 360 monsta on the bottom and xpsc rx 360 on the top.
waterblocks are from Ek. Supremacy clean csq for the cpu and Ek-Fc Titan for the Gtx 780.

at the moment tubing are mixed : straight segment are made with ek hd tube and others segment are made using common pvc tube (masterkleer).

I will use mayhems pastel red, now I am just testing with pure water.


----------



## doyll

Nice base.

May I suggest cutting out the middle so air can flow into bottom fans?

Here's what I have under mine.

 . 

And what it looks like bottom side up


----------



## kangk81

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Nice base.
> 
> May I suggest cutting out the middle so air can flow into bottom fans?
> 
> Here's what I have under mine.
> 
> And what it looks like bottom side up


Nice... Where did you get that base? Home made?

I was looking for something similar until I gave up and drove to the hardware store.

I wouldn't worry too much about the airflow from the bottom of the case. there's a good 3/4 in gap from the base to the intake filters. and in my case there seem to have less air from the top fans compared to the bottom one even though they are using the same rads and fan config.


----------



## doyll

Yeah, I\ve made a few. Retired from custom word work so have tools and skills.









Yes, there is that space between filter and floor or your base. But the sides and front of base only has about as much vent area as one 120mm fan has.







And that is not even considering how restrictive the stock vent mesh is.


----------



## liberato87

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Nice base.
> 
> May I suggest cutting out the middle so air can flow into bottom fans?
> 
> Here's what I have under mine.


nice work mate.
It is true, the bottom fans does not have good air flow, cause of the filters and because there is very low space from the bottom of the case and the floor/desk
thats why I have to use the airbox 360 (45mm). but I am honest, I think about making a base that tilt up the case, to let the fans have more air to inhale.
but I dont need wheels because my enthoo primo is on the desk, and also I am in a place where earthquake are quite frequent so it is a very high risk
















very very nice job mate, I will do the same base but with no wheels, thank you!


----------



## JackNaylorPE

The *WHITE Enthoo* hits the shelves

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811854002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Strider49*
> 
> Hi,
> 
> A few weeks ago I made my first post here saying that I was divided between going air or water on this case. Well, I've made my decision and I'm going water on the CPU for now (GPU will be added to the loop in the coming months and that'll be it).
> 
> I have been learning about WC on the web and pretty much have already decided what components I should get. So, now I have some questions for you about radiator compatibility and fans suitability.
> 
> Will the Alphacool UT60 360 fit in the top of the case in a push/pull configuration (I'm just getting 3 fans for now, but would like to add more in the future)? If not, should I consider the 360 or 480 XT45 instead?
> 
> Which one is better and by how much? UT60 in pull or XT45 in push/pull?
> 
> I'm planning on pairing the Alphacool UT60 with NoiseBlocker's eLoop B12-3 120mm fans rated @1900 RPM. Do these make a good match or not? Are they among the best ones for the money?
> 
> Cheers


The answer to the UT60 is "it depends" ..... The 360 presents less issues than the 420 in this respect but in my build, the 60 in P/P blocked many of my MoBo features ....some where installation oriented .... i.e. you have no access to 8 pin EPS cable w/o removing bottom fans..... others were blocked access to features like the LED diagnostic panel.

As to what's better.... here's all the data on most commonly used rads compiled from matinsliquidlab site

http://www.overclock.net/t/1457426/radiator-size-estimator

The UT60 will deliver a whopping 7 more watts using the Phanteks fans @ 1250 rpm.... little less as they don't actually run that high.

XT45-360 = 247 watts in push pull
UT60-360 = 254
XT45-420 = 302
XT45-480 = 296
UT60-480 = 303

As to your question ... The UT60-360 in push delivers 188 watts / the XT45-360 in P/P delivers 247 watts ..... a rad with 2 fans will always always be better than thicker rads w/ one as thicker rads really don't do anything of significance until like 2200 rpm where I'b be leaving the room because of noise. This list is basically "per fan" or "per 120mm of read" ....adding a 2nd fan in push adds around 21% in martins testing which of course will vary by fan (10 - 30%)

1250 rpm in push
ST30 - 60 watts
XT45 - 61
UT60 - 63
Monsta - 66

1400 rpm in push
ST30 - 66 watts
XT45 - 68
UT60 - 70
Monsta - 74

1800 rpm in push
ST30 - 81
XT45 - 86
UT60 - 90
Monsta 80 - 94

*The real deal here is the XT45-420* ..... for one, it's like the rad was made for this case....

1. Ya can place it so the top ports are accessible from the top of the case
2. The XT45-420 delivers about the same cooling as the UT60-480
3. The XT45 ($85) with 6 Phanteks fans ($90) in push pull is about $175.
- XT45-480 w/ fans is $225
- UT60-360 w/ fans is $190
- UT60-480 w/ fans is $250

I have a 420 + 280 in push only with the Phanteks fans the case came with and it keeps the 4770K (4.6 Ghz - 74C)) and twin 780s (25% OC - 39C) at 8.4C Delta T with no filters or grilles in place.... slowing things down and adding the filters brings me up to 12,8C and GPU temps of 44C.

As for the fan question, the Phanteks fans are superb and I wouldn't think of replacing them. And 1900 rpm is a bit screamy noise wise .....I have the Phanteks fans working from about 325 to 850 rpm and they are dead silent at those speeds.

Martin site has loads of fan data but unfortunately he hasn't tested many of the new designs..... SPCR has but there test are on air coolers..... but when ya think about it, air coolers with their tight fin spacing present more of a challenge than 10 fpi rads like you and I are using.

http://www.silentpcreview.com/article1345-page7.html

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Yeah, I\ve made a few. Retired from custom word work so have tools and skills.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yes, there is that space between filter and floor or your base. But the sides and front of base only has about as much vent area as one 120mm fan has.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And that is not even considering how restrictive the stock vent mesh is.


Do you have any pics of the underside w/o the "Doylly Dolly" ?









I wanna lift mine off the desk but was am thinking 4 hockey pucks or just 1 x 2's at each and and was wondering how critical placement might be. At this ppoint the thing is too damn heavy to flip.


----------



## xCloudyHorizon

Of course they'd release it after I decided to buy other things.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> The *WHITE Enthoo* hits the shelves
> 
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811854002
> The answer to the UT60 is "it depends" ..... The 360 presents less issues than the 420 in this respect but in my build, the 60 in P/P blocked many of my MoBo features ....some where installation oriented .... i.e. you have no access to 8 pin EPS cable w/o removing bottom fans..... others were blocked access to features like the LED diagnostic panel.
> 
> As to what's better.... here's all the data on most commonly used rads compiled from matinsliquidlab site
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1457426/radiator-size-estimator
> 
> The UT60 will deliver a whopping 7 more watts using the Phanteks fans @ 1250 rpm.... little less as they don't actually run that high.
> 
> XT45-360 = 247 watts in push pull
> UT60-360 = 254
> XT45-420 = 302
> XT45-480 = 296
> UT60-480 = 303
> 
> As to your question ... The UT60-360 in push delivers 188 watts / the XT45-360 in P/P delivers 247 watts ..... a rad with 2 fans will always always be better than thicker rads w/ one as thicker rads really don't do anything of significance until like 2200 rpm where I'b be leaving the room because of noise. This list is basically "per fan" or "per 120mm of read" ....adding a 2nd fan in push adds around 21% in martins testing which of course will vary by fan (10 - 30%)
> 
> 1250 rpm in push
> ST30 - 60 watts
> XT45 - 61
> UT60 - 63
> Monsta - 66
> 
> 1400 rpm in push
> ST30 - 66 watts
> XT45 - 68
> UT60 - 70
> Monsta - 74
> 
> 1800 rpm in push
> ST30 - 81
> XT45 - 86
> UT60 - 90
> Monsta 80 - 94
> 
> *The real deal here is the XT45-420* ..... for one, it's like the rad was made for this case....
> 
> 1. Ya can place it so the top ports are accessible from the top of the case
> 2. The XT45-420 delivers about the same cooling as the UT60-480
> 3. The XT45 ($85) with 6 Phanteks fans ($90) in push pull is about $175.
> - XT45-480 w/ fans is $225
> - UT60-360 w/ fans is $190
> - UT60-480 w/ fans is $250
> 
> I have a 420 + 280 in push only with the Phanteks fans the case came with and it keeps the 4770K (4.6 Ghz - 74C)) and twin 780s (25% OC - 39C) at 8.4C Delta T with no filters or grilles in place.... slowing things down and adding the filters brings me up to 12,8C and GPU temps of 44C.
> 
> As for the fan question, the Phanteks fans are superb and I wouldn't think of replacing them. And 1900 rpm is a bit screamy noise wise .....I have the Phanteks fans working from about 325 to 850 rpm and they are dead silent at those speeds.
> 
> Martin site has loads of fan data but unfortunately he hasn't tested many of the new designs..... SPCR has but there test are on air coolers..... but when ya think about it, air coolers with their tight fin spacing present more of a challenge than 10 fpi rads like you and I are using.
> 
> http://www.silentpcreview.com/article1345-page7.html
> 
> 
> Do you have any pics of the underside w/o the "Doylly Dolly" ?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I wanna lift mine off the desk but was am thinking 4 hockey pucks or just 1 x 2's at each and and was wondering how critical placement might be. At this ppoint the thing is too damn heavy to flip.


Google image search for 'bottom enthoo primo' found this:



Is that what you needed? I can flip mine over and probably take a better pic if not.

There definitely is an airflow issue to the bottom of the case as Phanteks designed it. Anyone putting a rad down there should seriously think about remedying it somehow.


----------



## doyll

Here's one. A hockey puck under each corner foot would be bigger than needed, but would definitely work. Any kids nearby with with a few square wooden blocks you could steal?


----------



## simsim44

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> The *WHITE Enthoo* hits the shelves
> 
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811854002


and already out of stock, I am looking forward to some build in white.


----------



## Leeford

Wow, Newegg out of stock already? That was what? 12 hours? Not even enough time to clear the purchase with the wife.








I think I am going to wait for one of the special edition ones anyway, the ones with the black exterior and a white, red, or orange interior.
Now just have to decided between the white or red interior. White would look nicer for my UV lighting plans, but red would really go well with my favorite mobos,. The orange would be the most unique but would have to ditch the Phantek fans for some orange cougars .


----------



## doyll

My money is on Newegg didn't have any to sell.









Phanteks USA is taking pre-orders

Phanteks forum quote from [email protected] on 31.03.2014
Quote:


> We will be taking preorders for the white Enthoo Primo these next two weeks on phanteksusa.com. With orders expecting to ship the week of the 14th.


And for Enthoo Luxe he said
Quote:


> The Enthoo Luxe release has been delayed and more details will be announced in the middle of April.


----------



## rpjkw11

I haven't yet pre-ordered the white Primo, but I'm sorely tempted. Waiting can be tough enough without upping the ante (as I discovered by pre-ordering the original Primo). I read the Haswell "refresh" could be launched by May 10, so I'm thinking about a "9 series" chipset and refreshed Haswell for the new white whale. If, IF, I go that route, perhaps I'll seriously consider a Swiftech WC kit.

I really like the Luxe and, were I in the market for a somewhat smaller case, that would be the "gold" standard.


----------



## Seid Dark

My build has been delayed for months because of Phanteks, hopefully the white one will finally be released soon in Europe too. It has been aggravating wait.


----------



## simsim44

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> My money is on Newegg didn't have any to sell.


That thought went through my mind as well, It is hard to believe that if they were to sell them they might have gotten quite a few.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Newegg did the same thing several times with the RIVBE motherboard. They listed it for pre-order and it sold out within hours, and that happened several times over the course of a month or so before they or any other US retailers managed to actually get any in quantities stock that didn't sell out right away. I was lucky enough to have seen a post about it here at OCN and was able to get in on the first wave of pre-orders and got my board about a week later.

Apparently Newegg only had a limited number of the white Enthoo Primos coming in, and unlike some other sites (cough - NCIX - cough - overclockers.uk - cough) they don't ever blindly take pre-orders except for items in quantities that they already have confirmed enroute to them. Anyone who was paying any attention at all to the RIVBE thread will remember how EXTREMELY upset so very many people were with ALL other sites that were taking pre-orders (especially NCIX), but every one of the very few that sold through pre-order from Newegg was shipped/received soon after (literally weeks before anyone got that board through anyone else - unless they were a reviewer)

As far as UK / EU availability goes, it's probably worth mentioning that in the instance of the first Enthoo Primo they were first made available in the US with the first cases shipping on Oct 20, 2013, and the first cases started showing up in the UK/EU on ~ Nov 12. (about 3 weeks later).

Any new word on when the fan hubs might be made available for sale individually? Last I heard Brian the Phanteks rep was giving an ETA of March.


----------



## doyll

Maybe, but I'm betting they expected some that did not arrive. Pretty sure Phanteks USA would be first to receive them and as said above, they are predicting shipping next week.








Still no word on PWM hubs.









Considering all the delays of products manufactured in China I have to wonder if there is a problem with factories meeting production demands.


----------



## Tekku

Anyone know where is the best place in germany to order this case?


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tekku*
> 
> Anyone know where is the best place in germany to order this case?


I got mine from Holland (highflow) and was great service.


----------



## Seid Dark

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tekku*
> 
> Anyone know where is the best place in germany to order this case?


Caseking.de has good reputation.


----------



## liberato87

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tekku*
> 
> Anyone know where is the best place in germany to order this case?


I got mine from computeruniverse.net

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## derfer

Looking seriously at getting this case. Is revision 2 the only thing on the market now? And are there any videos out there of the safe way to remove these panels? And does phanteks sell accessories yet? I need 5 sets of the rubber pads to make the fans match the retail fans.


----------



## Leeford

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derfer*
> 
> Looking seriously at getting this case. Is revision 2 the only thing on the market now? And are there any videos out there of the safe way to remove these panels? And does phanteks sell accessories yet? I need 5 sets of the rubber pads to make the fans match the retail fans.


I am leaving the two LED front fans in place and going to put the 3 remaining included fans on a 420 radiator. I don't have a case yet (waiting for the Black & Red/White/or Orange) but I saw in one review the top is 25mm between the rad mount and filter. Another post says the rubber feet on non-included fans makes the fan 27mm, so I might need these 3 "feetless" ones to go up top. Maybe someone who has put 140mm's on top can weigh in if this is accurate?

At any rate, if I need some rubber feeting between the rad and those particular fans, and Phantek does not have a solution, I will just get something like this:
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/20856/ex-rad-630/XSPC_3_x_140mm_Radiator_Gasket_-_3mm.html


----------



## Gunilla95

Well, I dont know if this person already is with us here. or if you aldready know of him.
but check out his premo build hes doin on his facebook. looks really nice and he has good ideas!
https://www.facebook.com/madebykier


----------



## skywalker311

For anyone that wants to change their top and front led's. I got some supernight led pack from newegg and it was only $10. When I went to light it up it was very dim. Well just so happens that the top blue led bar on top had a few that didn't work. So I wanted to see if they were any brighter if I used there 2 pin cord. So I cut the heat shrink and took my solder gun and took off the + and - wire and then solder it to the light strip that I cut to almost the same size. Behold to me when I hook them up they were super bright. The only thing was that I had to trim both sides to get it to fit ( wasn't that bad). So if you are thinking about doing this just remember you have to take the cords off and re solder them to new led strip. Hope this helps with anyone that plans on doing it.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Here's one. A hockey puck under each corner foot would be bigger than needed, but would definitely work. Any kids nearby with with a few square wooden blocks you could steal?


The top side with w/ the circular holes, looks interesting as Im thinning hockey puck with a pin...., I'd cut the pucks outta wood.\ and a pin would keep it from slipping ..... the other idea was two noitched piece at each end so the same reason ... so the case bottom would sit in the notch..... next build I'll turn it up side down and make two sets









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Leeford*
> 
> Wow, Newegg out of stock already? That was what? 12 hours? Not even enough time to clear the purchase with the wife.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think I am going to wait for one of the special edition ones anyway, the ones with the black exterior and a white, red, or orange interior.
> Now just have to decided between the white or red interior. White would look nicer for my UV lighting plans, but red would really go well with my favorite mobos,. The orange would be the most unique but would have to ditch the Phantek fans for some orange cougars .


It was gone just 3 hours later..... and no "out of stock" message ..... my guess is it was a repeat of last August and then Phanteks went nutz as they promised those w/ pre-orders they would get theirs 1st..... I actually had a confirmed order from newegg, ....... which couldn't happen if it was in the building,...... then was contacted about a delay. My guess is they sitting in warehouse until Phanteks says they can sell.

[/quote]
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Any new word on when the fan hubs might be made available for sale individually? Last I heard Brian the Phanteks rep was giving an ETA of March.


Last word I got was April

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derfer*
> 
> Looking seriously at getting this case. Is revision 2 the only thing on the market now? And are there any videos out there of the safe way to remove these panels? And does phanteks sell accessories yet? I need 5 sets of the rubber pads to make the fans match the retail fans.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Leeford*
> 
> I am leaving the two LED front fans in place and going to put the 3 remaining included fans on a 420 radiator. I don't have a case yet (waiting for the Black & Red/White/or Orange) but I saw in one review the top is 25mm between the rad mount and filter. Another post says the rubber feet on non-included fans makes the fan 27mm, so I might need these 3 "feetless" ones to go up top. Maybe someone who has put 140mm's on top can weigh in if this is accurate?
> 
> At any rate, if I need some rubber feeting between the rad and those particular fans, and Phantek does not have a solution, I will just get something like this:
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/20856/ex-rad-630/XSPC_3_x_140mm_Radiator_Gasket_-_3mm.html


I only needed 2 sets ..... the pads are not needed on the case mountings..... only needed when used on a rad as having some with and some without would make it wobbely. The 27mm fans fit fine with room to spare. If ya need em, call / e-mail Phanteks and they send em out.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gunilla95*
> 
> Well, I dont know if this person already is with us here. or if you aldready know of him.
> but check out his premo build hes doin on his facebook. looks really nice and he has good ideas!
> https://www.facebook.com/madebykier


Wow.... that is really interesting, I didn't see the build as I don't do facebook...... but I contacted kier to ask some questions about this build

http://rog.asus.com/forum/showthread.php?33364-Maximus-VI-Formula-Show-Casemod-MbK

And mentioned that I was doing a similar build in a Primo when it came out and suggested it for one of his future projects ... I guess he took a liking to it


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> The top side with w/ the circular holes, looks interesting as Im thinning hockey puck with a pin...., I'd cut the pucks outta wood.\ and a pin would keep it from slipping ..... the other idea was two noitched piece at each end so the same reason ... so the case bottom would sit in the notch..... next build I'll turn it up side down and make two sets


Base like mine with blocks w/ rubber pads instead of castors. Could remove the stock rubber pads and glue blocks directly to base with rubber on bottom of them.


----------



## setter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Base like mine with blocks w/ rubber pads instead of castors. Could remove the stock rubber pads and glue blocks directly to base with rubber on bottom of them.


Seeing as raising my case is a no go mate, earlier you mentioned something about blocking off unused fan positions on the top of the case. Earlier today i took the sp 120 mounted on the rear and put it in the top, (corsair AF 140 at rear now). What would you suggest for blocking this area with. As you know my case is quite close to the underside of my desk, Just over 1" ono.

Fan configuration is now like this.

Front intake, 2x 120mm corsair SP's
Bottom intake, 1x 120mm Alpenfohn red clover
Rear exhaust, 1x Corsair AF 140mm
Top exhaust, 2x 120mm Corsair SP's
Cpu cooler, 2x 120mm Corsair SP PWM models


----------



## doyll

Are you having temperature problems?

Most anything will work. I often use file folders for material. Cut to fit inside of vent. Can tape or Glue Stick them in place.

I suggest you check and make sure the area at back of base is not sucking heated exhaust air from back under the case and into bottom intake.

If you changed to front intakes to 140mm fan of same kind as the 120mm you have now are you will get increased airflow. 3x 120mm fans equal 1x 140mm fans of same design and speed. .


----------



## setter

Cpu temps are getting upto 77c in bf4 on auto fan, (turbo profile on ai suite on my mobo). If set manually to full speed its 68c ono. Probably down to owning a very hot running i7 4770k. The air leaving the case at rear feels very cool. And top exhaust feels ok too, ill try a few materials for the remaining fan mounts on the top. Quite possible that air is hitting the underside of the desk and being circulated back into the case. As for the cpu, it may be time to get out the razor blade and a tube of coollabs liquid metal paste for a delid job.


----------



## doyll

De-lididing usually helps.









What happens if you slide it out from under desk? Does it still run as hot?


----------



## kangk81

I got a 10deg C temp drop when I delided my 4770k. I was using the H80i and it's running in the low 90s during realbench. After delidding its high 70s to mid 80s

Sent from my LG-P875 using Tapatalk


----------



## Wiz766

Is it just me or is the smoked window make it look blurry inside?


----------



## setter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> De-lididing usually helps.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What happens if you slide it out from under desk? Does it still run as hot?


Pretty much the same yes. It's looking like a delid might be the best option for this chip. Though tbh im wary about taking on such a task.


----------



## doyll

I definitely understand. Very slim chance of doing damage but.....


----------



## setter

Regarding the front fans, i might just stick two of the supplied Phanteks 140mm models back in. Theyre similair in speed to the current corsairs anyway. And besides the front fans arent visible, (black and red colour theme here).

Seen a few interesting delidding methods, heating the chip with a hairdryer and removing the ihs with your finger nails looked pretty safe.


----------



## doyll

Using the stock fans sounds good to me. Guess that means I can't talk you out of them.







I really can't help with the delidding


----------



## DancingOnAshes

Wooo!

What do you guys think?


----------



## smoke420

Can i use the fan hub with my new maximus hero motherboard? It is not in the compatibility list and I remember reading it was a problem but can not find the post.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smoke420*
> 
> Can i use the fan hub with my new maximus hero motherboard? It is not in the compatibility list and I remember reading it was a problem but can not find the post.


What compatibility list? That's the first I heard of that.

The fan hub should work with a PWM header on any motherboard.

According to the MAXIMUS VI HERO manual linked here, all of the fan headers on that board are PWM (that's pretty surprising actually), but iirc ASUS made mistakes in several of their mobo manuals showing them like that when really only the CPU_FAN & CPU_OPT were PWM, which is more typical of mobos these days. I wouldn't really trust that the CHA headers are really PWM unless it was confirmed by ASUS support or the like.

That said, I think Jack is running his Phanteks hub from one of the voltage-controlled (non-PWM) CHA headers on his ASUS Maximus VI Formula (I think that's his board) and he says that's working for him, so maybe it doesn't really matter, but even the Phanteks rep has said the hub wasn't designed to be used like that. It's supposed to be connected to a PWM header.


----------



## smoke420

I was under the impression that the headers put out more power than normal and that conflicted with the molex power from the psu. Fyi there are no socket 1150 boards in the compatibility list on the phanteks website.

http://phanteks.com/Compatibility.html#top

I am not doubting your information. I just want to be sure before I hook it up. Can anyone with the board confirm the hub works with the extra power from the psu connected.

This is a big upgrade for me, first unlocked processor and first ROG board. Going from a phenom2 945 to an I7 4770k and cant wait.


----------



## Roxycon

My top vent have a little bulge with my 140 fans which came with the case, they are mounted directly to the case though and my 480 are mountet with small screws directly to the top as well

The bulge is almost unnoticable though


----------



## Strider49

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> (...)
> 
> The answer to the UT60 is "it depends" ..... The 360 presents less issues than the 420 in this respect but in my build, the 60 in P/P blocked many of my MoBo features ....some where installation oriented .... i.e. you have no access to 8 pin EPS cable w/o removing bottom fans..... others were blocked access to features like the LED diagnostic panel.
> 
> As to what's better.... here's all the data on most commonly used rads compiled from matinsliquidlab site
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1457426/radiator-size-estimator
> 
> The UT60 will deliver a whopping 7 more watts using the Phanteks fans @ 1250 rpm.... little less as they don't actually run that high.
> 
> XT45-360 = 247 watts in push pull
> UT60-360 = 254
> XT45-420 = 302
> XT45-480 = 296
> UT60-480 = 303
> 
> As to your question ... The UT60-360 in push delivers 188 watts / the XT45-360 in P/P delivers 247 watts ..... a rad with 2 fans will always always be better than thicker rads w/ one as thicker rads really don't do anything of significance until like 2200 rpm where I'b be leaving the room because of noise. This list is basically "per fan" or "per 120mm of read" ....adding a 2nd fan in push adds around 21% in martins testing which of course will vary by fan (10 - 30%)
> 
> 1250 rpm in push
> ST30 - 60 watts
> XT45 - 61
> UT60 - 63
> Monsta - 66
> 
> 1400 rpm in push
> ST30 - 66 watts
> XT45 - 68
> UT60 - 70
> Monsta - 74
> 
> 1800 rpm in push
> ST30 - 81
> XT45 - 86
> UT60 - 90
> Monsta 80 - 94
> 
> *The real deal here is the XT45-420* ..... for one, it's like the rad was made for this case....
> 
> 1. Ya can place it so the top ports are accessible from the top of the case
> 2. The XT45-420 delivers about the same cooling as the UT60-480
> 3. The XT45 ($85) with 6 Phanteks fans ($90) in push pull is about $175.
> - XT45-480 w/ fans is $225
> - UT60-360 w/ fans is $190
> - UT60-480 w/ fans is $250
> 
> I have a 420 + 280 in push only with the Phanteks fans the case came with and it keeps the 4770K (4.6 Ghz - 74C)) and twin 780s (25% OC - 39C) at 8.4C Delta T with no filters or grilles in place.... slowing things down and adding the filters brings me up to 12,8C and GPU temps of 44C.
> 
> As for the fan question, the Phanteks fans are superb and I wouldn't think of replacing them. And 1900 rpm is a bit screamy noise wise .....I have the Phanteks fans working from about 325 to 850 rpm and they are dead silent at those speeds.
> 
> Martin site has loads of fan data but unfortunately he hasn't tested many of the new designs..... SPCR has but there test are on air coolers..... but when ya think about it, air coolers with their tight fin spacing present more of a challenge than 10 fpi rads like you and I are using.
> 
> http://www.silentpcreview.com/article1345-page7.html
> (...)


Hey,

Thank you for this thorough explanation and for sharing those links. Thanks also to *Gabrielzm* and *Leeford* for your insight. So, based on what you three said I decided I'll go with the 420 XT45 and buy some more of these Phanteks fans.

Well, before that, I have another doubt. I have been trying to decide which graphics card (780 Ti) to get for the last few weeks, and I came up with these three:

- Asus DirectCU II OC: 639€
- EVGA SC w/ ACX cooler: 645€
- EVGA Dual Classified: 679€

Initially I was all set on getting the Asus card, but now the price of the Classified went down to 679€ and it became much more appealing to me. Unlike Asus, the Classified can be 100% voltage unlocked by software, we can take off the ACX cooler without voiding the warranty (there are no warranty stickers on the cooler screws) and it has even more phases for the GPU and memory.

There is a problem though. From what I read on this thread, the Classified card cannot be installed on this case with the reservoir bracket mounted and it even blocks the top holes on the back panel Phanteks provided for mounting the res there, as you can see in this image (taken by Kurodragon): http://www.overclock.net/t/1418637/lightbox/post/21451753/id/1809184

So, what I want to ask you is: can I still mount a cylinder plexi res there on the back panel or not? Particularly, the Phobya Balancer 150 res.

Cheers


----------



## chrisnyc75

Hey guys







I'm having a slight problem with the Phanteks PWM fan hub, wondering if anybody else has experienced this? I have 6 Noiseblocker e-loops (non-PWM) attached to the fan hub, and for some reason they randomly stop spinning. The fans are all functional -- it's not always the same fan(s) that stops. Inititally, I thought it may have been a controller conflict between the bios fan control and Asus Fan Xpert software, but I recently uninstalled Asus Fan Xpert, intending to use only the bios fan control. But even using only the bios settings, the fans periodically just stop spinning. And when they do, the only way to get them started again is to shut down entirely and reboot (from a completely powered down state -- just restarting does not reset the fans).

Have any of you seen this behavior with the fan hub? If so, what kind of fans? I'm wondering if there's an inherent issue with the fan hub & e-loops? Or is my fan hub defective, maybe?


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smoke420*
> 
> Can i use the fan hub with my new maximus hero motherboard? It is not in the compatibility list and I remember reading it was a problem but can not find the post.


The fan hub works on any header.

*PWM Header* - Asus makes no MoBos that I am aware of that have PWM on anything bit the CPU and CPU_OPT headers. Asus TS and forum staff have claimed otherwise on numerous occassions, but in the end they have come back and said "Oops, sorry, they are not PWM". The Hero definitely does not have PWM on the chassis headers as the Hero threads on RoG Forums have confirmed it. You can use a PWM MoBo header (CPU and CPU_OPT) to control your fans with or without the 12V auxillary power connector and use the full compliment of 11 fans.

*VV Headers* - All Asus MoBos and all MoBos as far as I have been able to determine .... at this point in time ..... use Variable Voltage (VV) control on all the CHA and OPT Headers. You can not use the 12V auxillary power connector when using these headers as the 12v feed from the PSU will trash the variable voltage signal from the header and you will run at full speed. These headers are 1 amp on the Hero and M6F......my old Rampage board had 2 amp headers but I'm told the current Rampage is only 1 amp also. As such I wouldn't recommend more than 6 fans be used under VV control. (6 x 0.14 = 0.84 amps) .... 1200 rpm fans don't have the inertia of faster fans so I don't worry as much about inrush current with the Phanteks fans..... also AISuite (FanXpert2) ramps up the speed slowly which also quashes inrush current. However, in one of my "dumbass" moments, I connected 6 fan wires to my PCB not realizing for 3-4 days that two of them had splitters.,..... so I actually had 8 x 0.14 or 1.12 amps + hitting my header and nuthin' fried.

Once the hubs become available as an accessory, I will buy a 3rd PCB and do this:

CHA_1 => PCB_1 => (5) case fans
CHA_2 => PCB_2 => (6) rad fans for 420
CHA_1 => PCB_1 => (4) rad fans for 280

Right now I still have 5 fans in push on one PCB and 5 fans on the case on the 2nd. Will buy the 5 extra fans for pull when the PCB hits the shelves.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smoke420*
> 
> I was under the impression that the headers put out more power than normal and that conflicted with the molex power from the psu. Fyi there are no socket 1150 boards in the compatibility list on the phanteks website.
> 
> http://phanteks.com/Compatibility.html#top


That''s the CPU Cooler Compatibility List

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roxycon*
> 
> My top vent have a little bulge with my 140 fans which came with the case, they are mounted directly to the case though and my 480 are mountet with small screws directly to the top as well
> 
> The bulge is almost unnoticable though


My top fans are not mounted to the case .... perhaps the screw heads are the issue ?

I used the radiator socket head screws which are countersunk inside the fan screw mounts..... the screw goes thru the rad, not into the case but directly into the radiator below.... can get 100 screws from amazon for like $9 if that's the source of the bulge and ya wanna get rid of it..



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Strider49*
> 
> Well, before that, I have another doubt. I have been trying to decide which graphics card (780 Ti) to get for the last few weeks, and I came up with these three:
> 
> - Asus DirectCU II OC: 639€
> - EVGA SC w/ ACX cooler: 645€
> - EVGA Dual Classified: 679€
> 
> Initially I was all set on getting the Asus card, but now the price of the Classified went down to 679€ and it became much more appealing to me. Unlike Asus, the Classified can be 100% voltage unlocked by software, we can take off the ACX cooler without voiding the warranty (there are no warranty stickers on the cooler screws) and it has even more phases for the GPU and memory.
> 
> There is a problem though. From what I read on this thread, the Classified card cannot be installed on this case with the reservoir bracket mounted and it even blocks the top holes on the back panel Phanteks provided for mounting the res there, as you can see in this image (taken by Kurodragon): http://www.overclock.net/t/1418637/lightbox/post/21451753/id/1809184
> 
> So, what I want to ask you is: can I still mount a cylinder plexi res there on the back panel or not? Particularly, the Phobya Balancer 150 res.
> 
> Cheers


Ya have about 10.6" to fit a 60mm Res .... little more if ya drop to a 50mm (+5mm) or about 0.2 in

Both the 780 Ti and 780 are 11.3" long....the air cooler should extends over about 0.8" which is where the 10.5" dimension comes from..... I can not confirm that it is the same on the 780 and 780 Ti but according to EK, they use the same WB cause they have the same PCB so it should work.

http://www.guru3d.com/articles_pages/msi_geforce_gtx_780_ti_gaming_review,2.html

The MSI is also a 10.5" PCB and seems to be TechPowerUps favorite..... EK does have a block for it ... *MAKE SURE ya get the short Nickel one*

http://www.techpowerup.com/reviews/MSI/GTX_780_Ti_Gaming/29.html
http://www.coolingconfigurator.com/

EK-FC780 GTX Ti - Nickel [3831109868638]
EK-FC780 GTX Ti Backplate - Black [3831109868331]

http://www.techpowerup.com/reviews/MSI/GTX_780_Ti_Gaming/29.html

The Classy boes not fit, it's PCB is 0.4" too long to use the res bracket w/o mods.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chrisnyc75*
> 
> Hey guys
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm having a slight problem with the Phanteks PWM fan hub, wondering if anybody else has experienced this? I have 6 Noiseblocker e-loops (non-PWM) attached to the fan hub, and for some reason they randomly stop spinning. The fans are all functional -- it's not always the same fan(s) that stops. Inititally, I thought it may have been a controller conflict between the bios fan control and Asus Fan Xpert software, but I recently uninstalled Asus Fan Xpert, intending to use only the bios fan control. But even using only the bios settings, the fans periodically just stop spinning. And when they do, the only way to get them started again is to shut down entirely and reboot (from a completely powered down state -- just restarting does not reset the fans).
> 
> Have any of you seen this behavior with the fan hub? If so, what kind of fans? I'm wondering if there's an inherent issue with the fan hub & e-loops? Or is my fan hub defective, maybe?


I wuda went the other way .... the BIOS control is limited so I wuda suggested turning that off and not having them fight each other. Ya fans can spin down to a point lower than they can restart at.... for example..... they might spin down to 325 but need 350 rpm to get started so if ya set the controls yaself, that could happen. The FanXpert2 software OTOH is designed to overcome this. It will spin the fans up and down and record / display the stop / startup speeds and set the lower limit at a point where ya won't be in that no mans land territory.


----------



## Strider49

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> Ya have about 10.6" to fit a 60mm Res .... little more if ya drop to a 50mm (+5mm) or about 0.2 in
> 
> Both the 780 Ti and 780 are 11.3" long....the air cooler should extends over about 0.8" which is where the 10.5" dimension comes from..... I can not confirm that it is the same on the 780 and 780 Ti but according to EK, they use the same WB cause they have the same PCB so it should work.
> 
> http://www.guru3d.com/articles_pages/msi_geforce_gtx_780_ti_gaming_review,2.html
> 
> The MSI is also a 10.5" PCB and seems to be TechPowerUps favorite..... EK does have a block for it ... *MAKE SURE ya get the short Nickel one*
> 
> http://www.techpowerup.com/reviews/MSI/GTX_780_Ti_Gaming/29.html
> http://www.coolingconfigurator.com/
> 
> EK-FC780 GTX Ti - Nickel [3831109868638]
> EK-FC780 GTX Ti Backplate - Black [3831109868331]
> 
> http://www.techpowerup.com/reviews/MSI/GTX_780_Ti_Gaming/29.html
> 
> The Classy boes not fit, it's PCB is 0.4" too long to use the res bracket w/o mods.


Yeah, I know the Classy has a PCB that is 11'' long and that one cannot place the res to the right of the MoBo without some modding. But I'm actually talking about the width of that same PCB. As you can see in the image by Kurodragon in my previous post, the card blocks the top few holes on the back panel of the case Phanteks provided for mounting a res there. Will I still be able to install the Phobya 50mm res there? If not, then I think that's a big flaw in the design of the case.

The MSI got a 9.9 on TPU's review, but it has a reference PCB and, as far as I know, the brand only offers a 2 year warranty in my country, unlike Asus and EVGA who offer 3 years. That's why I only consider these two brands. There are two problems with the Asus card however: one is that the warranty is voided as soon as one takes the DirectCU II cooler off; and second, Guru's high precision thermal imaging equipment reported some really high temps on the VRM (~100ºC), and, considering I'm going to run the card on air for the next few months, this is a no-no for me.

http://www.guru3d.com/articles_pages/asus_directcu_geforce_gtx_780_ti_oc_review,27.html

Some guys have reported this same issue in the ROG forums, even in the GTX 780, as you can see here:

http://rog.asus.com/forum/showthread.php?45151-780Ti-DC2-VRM-temp-issue/page2


----------



## Leeford

Thanks for that explanation of PWM fan header & VV fans headers. I wonder how the fan headers on this PSU would function with the hub. (This has 4 case fan headers)

http://www.bequiet.com/en/powersupply/299

Here is the quote from the manual concerning their usage. I guess they are simply more VV headers but not sure if they operate the same as Mobo headers. This seems to use a case heat sensor to determine fan speed where a mobo header uses the board heat, which may or may not be different.
Quote:


> Thermally controlled fan
> be quiet! power supplies from the Dark Power P8 series offer high-precision thermal fan control. This monitoring mechanism controls the fans using the "FAN" connection on the power supply. Fan speed is adapted to reflect the actual heat levels inside the PC case and power supply. When temperatures rise, the fans automatically begin to turn faster in order to ensure quick and effective cooling within the case. The fact that cool air is generated quickly helps to improve the life expectancy of your components and the power supply itself. When connecting external fans to the power supply, please ensure that these fans do not have their own thermal sensors or potentiometers.
> The fan control system generates a start-up signal. This short, high-voltage burst ensures that all the connected fans in the case will start together each time.
> Important: Connect only one fan per cable.


----------



## chrisnyc75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> I wuda went the other way .... the BIOS control is limited so I wuda suggested turning that off and not having them fight each other. Ya fans can spin down to a point lower than they can restart at.... for example..... they might spin down to 325 but need 350 rpm to get started so if ya set the controls yaself, that could happen. The FanXpert2 software OTOH is designed to overcome this. It will spin the fans up and down and record / display the stop / startup speeds and set the lower limit at a point where ya won't be in that no mans land territory.


Yeah, I would agree that the software is more user-friendly, and therefore preferable, but the problem is that it's designed as an interface with the bios.... so fan adjustments made in AI Suite II cause changes to the bios settings. But since the bios settings only allow a straight line (i.e. low point and high point) curve for fan control, the third point in the software curve gets lost -- or possibly conflicts with the bios settings. In other words, if I turn OFF fan control in the bios, but turn it ON in AI Suite, when I go back into the bios fan control is turned back ON (by AI Suite).

Thanks for the insight, though. I'm going to play around with it more this weekend and keep an eye on the fans. It may just be a matter of finding the rpm setting that these particular fans are happy with and leaving it at that. My cooling system is so overkill I don't think the fan curve really makes much difference anyway.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Strider49*
> 
> Hey,
> 
> Thank you for this thorough explanation and for sharing those links. Thanks also to *gabrielzm* and *Leeford* for your insight. So, based on what you three said I decided I'll go with the 420 XT45 and buy some more of these Phanteks fans.
> 
> Well, before that, I have another doubt. I have been trying to decide which graphics card (780 Ti) to get for the last few weeks, and I came up with these three:
> 
> - Asus DirectCU II OC: 639€
> - EVGA SC w/ ACX cooler: 645€
> - EVGA Dual Classified: 679€
> 
> Initially I was all set on getting the Asus card, but now the price of the Classified went down to 679€ and it became much more appealing to me. Unlike Asus, the Classified can be 100% voltage unlocked by software, we can take off the ACX cooler without voiding the warranty (there are no warranty stickers on the cooler screws) and it has even more phases for the GPU and memory.
> 
> There is a problem though. From what I read on this thread, the Classified card cannot be installed on this case with the reservoir bracket mounted and it even blocks the top holes on the back panel Phanteks provided for mounting the res there, as you can see in this image (taken by Kurodragon): http://www.overclock.net/t/1418637/lightbox/post/21451753/id/1809184
> 
> So, what I want to ask you is: can I still mount a cylinder plexi res there on the back panel or not? Particularly, the Phobya Balancer 150 res.
> 
> Cheers


Don't have this reservoir but it looks like it would fit without problem even with the classified. But here is another idea. Keep the metal reservoir bracket (the one with the cut on it not the plastic piece) and take it to a metal shop and cut it a little bit deeper. Then you would be able to fit the classified there + the reservoir. I have a regular titan (10.5 or ~267 mm) + Ek reservoir (60 mm and still have room to spare). Your future classified







+ 50 mm reservoir will give you ~the same space occupied that I have. You will have to mod a little bit (metal shop to cut the piece deeper) and perhaps drill a few holes to align the reservoir but will look a lot better and be more functional I think. You can have an idea of the cut + drill + painting job on the reservoir bracket looking at my build log.

Also notice that Aquacomputer just released *(EDIT- well, I think was released last year...)* a version of their reservoirs with 50 mm width too. Some versions even have the fill level sensor in the reservoir.

http://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?products_id=3049

Hope it helps mate.
Gabriel


----------



## chrisnyc75

Yeah, it's pretty easy to extend the "notch" on the bracket an inch or two farther down just using a dremel. Many/most of us here had to do it. If you click on my pictures in my signature line the first image is a close-up of the notched-out mounting bracket in my build.


----------



## twerk

Thread has been given well deserved [Official] status.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Nice!







we are now official


----------



## Mr Mari0o

Hey guys I plan on buying one of these cases in white. I'm currently debatng on the rad size for the bottom of the case. I currently have a nexxos xt45 480 for the top and I was thinking of getting a second one for the bottom. I was also Looking at the monsta 80mm 360.
Which would be best dual xt45 480's or a xt45 480+monsta 360?? I only have one 780ti and 4770k to cool at the moment but I plan on throwing a second gpu in there before the end of year.

Any and all help will be very greatly appreciated


----------



## Roxycon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr Mari0o*
> 
> Hey guys I plan on buying one of these cases in white. I'm currently debatng on the rad size for the bottom of the case. I currently have a nexxos xt45 480 for the top and I was thinking of getting a second one for the bottom. I was also Looking at the monsta 80mm 360.
> Which would be best dual xt45 480's or a xt45 480+monsta 360?? I only have one 780ti and 4770k to cool at the moment but I plan on throwing a second gpu in there before the end of year.
> 
> Any and all help will be very greatly appreciated


Rad size > rad thickness


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr Mari0o*
> 
> Hey guys I plan on buying one of these cases in white. I'm currently debatng on the rad size for the bottom of the case. I currently have a nexxos xt45 480 for the top and I was thinking of getting a second one for the bottom. I was also Looking at the monsta 80mm 360.
> Which would be best dual xt45 480's or a xt45 480+monsta 360?? I only have one 780ti and 4770k to cool at the moment but I plan on throwing a second gpu in there before the end of year.
> 
> Any and all help will be very greatly appreciated


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roxycon*
> 
> Rad size > rad thickness


^this

You can have a look here with some interesting numbers:

http://martinsliquidlab.org/2012/04/12/alphacool-nexxxos-ut60-360-radiator/4/

If you are set on having rad top and bottom only then why not a 480 ut60? You would have space for push/pull on that. But notice that you will have to take the rad support from the bottom of the case which only supports up to 280 mm. You can always add another 240 mm rad up front which would allow you to keep the HD bays if you place a 280 mm bottom. Going the 480 mm route will not allow you place any rad up front (perhaps a 120 mm only).


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *twerk*
> 
> Thread has been given well deserved [Official] status.


Thanks Twerk.

Does anyone feel any different now?









FYI
Phanteks Enthoo Primo Club is in 26th place of all case threads here. Not bad for a thread started 8/14/13. .








Some of those ahead of us were started 2008.









There are only two started in 2013 with higher post count. We have 3,588 posts, 750D has 3,833 (9/18/13) & 540 has 6,174 (6/28/13)..

As soon as Phanteks gives us some new cases we will grow even faster!


----------



## setter

When the special editions and the luxe/pro are released, i can see the number of phanteks owners growing a good bit. The luxe in particular i reckon is going to be a very popular well priced case. The primo at its uk price of £199.99 is exceptionally good value too.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *setter*
> 
> When the special editions and the luxe/pro are released, i can see the number of phanteks owners growing a good bit. The luxe in particular i reckon is going to be a very popular well priced case. The primo at its uk price of £199.99 is exceptionally good value too.


I think the Primo is a exceptional value in fact. The level of compatibility and capability this case have is only comparable to CaseLabs (LD and so on) which are cases at a very different league altogether (not only they are twice the price but comes with a very different quality and flexibility). I confess that I am aiming at a CS sm08 and if you do the math and put the rad area there compared to the Enthoo is not so far off. I shall resist...


----------



## doyll

I agree setter. I'm considering getting a Enthoo Luxe myself.









I have seen EP on sale for £169.99.

As soon as other Phanteks cases are available I can add the others to our title. Would you all agree that's a good idea?


----------



## setter

The more the merrier. Seen a few case labs based builds here and on other forums. Nice cases but a lot of money. Im a bit of a Lian Li fan, elegant design and build quality is very good.

after having owned the primo for a few weeks now, i gotta say its even better. So well thought out, nicely built, quality stock fans, all at a very competitive price. I can see why hardware canucks voted it their best case of 2013.


----------



## doyll

I've had two Lian Li cases. Very nice cases, but very different beasts than EP is.

I've modified one as my bench test stand.


----------



## Roxycon

Hey guys, all setup at the biggest lan here in Norway and everyone calls the EP a beast







the case is a real attention seeker


----------



## kangk81

If only I have gotten the ref cards in the beginning. The EVGA Classifieds are simply too long to fit a tube res. I ended up using bay res,


----------



## jrcbandit

Anyone upgrade to this case from an ATCS 840 (wish Cooler Master would just release a new version of this)? I have a side window and I don't like the fact that the 840 isn't painted in the interior (semi-easy fix to powder coat but a pain to totally break down the case) and the lack of modern cable management. My other major gripe is the lack of proper 5.25 bays - it is "tool-less" and I can't get my Monsoon reservoir to fit properly. The reservoir/pump has anti-vibration tech built into it, but it needs traditional screws to work properly. I managed to get it screwed in, but it starts to randomly vibrate at times (my main annoyance with the case now).

So my main questions regarding the Enthoo Primo:
1) Does the Enthoo Primo have the option to use screws normally in the 5.25 bays and can you remove with the door covering the 5.25 bay (and does it look okay to do so)?
2) Will it be easy to fit 4 hard drives and a large radiator on the bottom of the case? I have a 360 radiator at top and I was thinking of upgrading my 120 radiator to something larger - just looking at the case it seems a 240 radiator would absolutely be 0 issue, but I am not sure about a 360 or larger radiator.

I figure the cost of powder coating my original case and the time involved (probably $100 or so?), it may be worth going to the Enthoo Primo instead for $220 after rebate at Newegg. Hoperfully, without vibrations in the 5.25 bay....


----------



## kangk81

wrong post....


----------



## kangk81

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jrcbandit*
> 
> Anyone upgrade to this case from an ATCS 840 (wish Cooler Master would just release a new version of this)? I have a side window and I don't like the fact that the 840 isn't painted in the interior (semi-easy fix to powder coat but a pain to totally break down the case) and the lack of modern cable management. My other major gripe is the lack of proper 5.25 bays - it is "tool-less" and I can't get my Monsoon reservoir to fit properly. The reservoir/pump has anti-vibration tech built into it, but it needs traditional screws to work properly. I managed to get it screwed in, but it starts to randomly vibrate at times (my main annoyance with the case now).
> 
> So my main questions regarding the Enthoo Primo:
> 1) Does the Enthoo Primo have the option to use screws normally in the 5.25 bays and can you remove with the door covering the 5.25 bay (and does it look okay to do so)?
> 2) Will it be easy to fit 4 hard drives and a large radiator on the bottom of the case? I have a 360 radiator at top and I was thinking of upgrading my 120 radiator to something larger - just looking at the case it seems a 240 radiator would absolutely be 0 issue, but I am not sure about a 360 or larger radiator.
> 
> I figure the cost of powder coating my original case and the time involved (probably $100 or so?), it may be worth going to the Enthoo Primo instead for $220 after rebate at Newegg. Hoperfully, without vibrations in the 5.25 bay....


There are 2 screw holes to the rear of the tooless bay latch. if the monsoon bay res, like in my case for XSPC X20 bay res, requires the screws to be at the fore of the latch, you will need to remove the latch.

It's very easy to do it. you should be able to pry it out without difficulty. But the left and right screw holes for my casing are not lined up properly, they are offset 1mm from each other resulting in my bay res being slanted towards the rear of the chasis. you should use the screws that come with you bay res to secure it to the 5.25in bay.

there are 2 HDD racks, each holding up to 3hdd below the 5.25in bays and they can be removed separately. If one of your hard disk is an SSD, there are separate SSD mounts away from the HDD racks. I removed the bottom HDD rack and fitted a 360mm rad at the bottom of the chassis so my HDDs are sort of hanging from the 5.25in bays.


----------



## doyll

Having a hard time getting used to the new thread name.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roxycon*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hey guys, all setup at the biggest lan here in Norway and everyone calls the EP a beast
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> the case is a real attention seeker










Love your all-terrain caster base!








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kangk81*
> 
> If only I have gotten the ref cards in the beginning. The EVGA Classifieds are simply too long to fit a tube res. I ended up using bay res,
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ]


Looks good to me.


----------



## jrcbandit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kangk81*
> 
> There are 2 screw holes to the rear of the tooless bay latch. if the monsoon bay res, like in my case for XSPC X20 bay res, requires the screws to be at the fore of the latch, you will need to remove the latch.
> 
> It's very easy to do it. you should be able to pry it out without difficulty. But the left and right screw holes for my casing are not lined up properly, they are offset 1mm from each other resulting in my bay res being slanted towards the rear of the chasis. you should use the screws that come with you bay res to secure it to the 5.25in bay.
> 
> there are 2 HDD racks, each holding up to 3hdd below the 5.25in bays and they can be removed separately. If one of your hard disk is an SSD, there are separate SSD mounts away from the HDD racks. I removed the bottom HDD rack and fitted a 360mm rad at the bottom of the chassis so my HDDs are sort of hanging from the 5.25in bays.


Thanks for the info, sounds like the case could work well for me. I have 3 normal hard drives that could fit in the bay and a SSD that could go in the special SSD mount. The problem with the ATSC 840 screwless option was that it only has all the screw holes on the right side, it lacked half the screw holes on the left side which so happened to be the ones that the reservoir use/line up with...

With a single D5 vario pump, a CPU and GPU block, would 2 360 radiators be recommended or should I go 360 and 240? Someday I may get a 2nd video card so that would then be two GPU blocks.


----------



## kangk81

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jrcbandit*
> 
> Thanks for the info, sounds like the case could work well for me. I have 3 normal hard drives that could fit in the bay and a SSD that could go in the special SSD mount. The problem with the ATSC 840 screwless option was that it only has all the screw holes on the right side, it lacked half the screw holes on the left side which so happened to be the ones that the reservoir use/line up with...
> 
> With a single D5 vario pump, a CPU and GPU block, would 2 360 radiators be recommended or should I go 360 and 240? Someday I may get a 2nd video card so that would then be two GPU blocks.


Usually with the tool-less cases, once you remove the bay latch, you'll see 2 more holes on the latch side of the bay slots. These are for the pins of the latch to go through and into the screw holes of the your bay device thereby securing the device to the bay. So far this is the situation for the Primoo and my previous Corsair case . However for some some cases, these holes are replaced with a bigger square hole and the latch has some sort of rubbery material to hold the bay device in by friction. Unfortunately, the only way to find out is to remove the latches. This step is usually non-destructive if you exercise a little tender loving care to coax the latches out.

Unfortunately, I'm also new to WC as can be seen by my noobish tubing in my pic 2-3 post up but what I can tell you is a single GPU can run hotter than a single CPU when gaming. So for a single GPU & single CPU config, a single 360mm or 480mm rad should be more than enough. There is no hard and fast rule for WC which is ultimately decided by your budget and imagination. I recommend reading the WC section of OCN for more ideas and guides.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Strider49*
> 
> Yeah, I know the Classy has a PCB that is 11'' long and that one cannot place the res to the right of the MoBo without some modding. But I'm actually talking about the width of that same PCB. As you can see in the image by Kurodragon in my previous post, the card blocks the top few holes on the back panel of the case Phanteks provided for mounting a res there. Will I still be able to install the Phobya 50mm res there? If not, then I think that's a big flaw in the design of the case.


Well I don't know that I'd call it a flaw ..... in any design you have to make compromises and I think Phanteks went all out to accommodate 95+% of the cards out there.....yes a 1/2 inch or even a few mm here and there would make it accommodate a few more things and this was referenced in my "Enthoo Primo II Suggestions" post, but eventually, when you keep making the case bigger and bigger to accommodate everything, then you are no longer unique .... you basically have a Case Labs case ad a new price to match.
Quote:


> The MSI got a 9.9 on TPU's review, but it has a reference PCB and, as far as I know, the brand only offers a 2 year warranty in my country, unlike Asus and EVGA who offer 3 years. That's why I only consider these two brands. There are two problems with the Asus card however: one is that the warranty is voided as soon as one takes the DirectCU II cooler off; and second, Guru's high precision thermal imaging equipment reported some really high temps on the VRM (~100ºC), and, considering I'm going to run the card on air for the next few months, this is a no-no for me.


It has a reference PCB ? That would be a significant change. The only factory card I know of that has historically had a reference PCB is the EVGA SC series. The MSI and Gigabyte Windforce cards have consistently led the pack in the 7xx series with the highest factory OCs and they have been able to do that by using a multi phase VRM and custom PCB.

If MSI has gone to a reference PCB and VRM, I am a bit puzzled how they can get a card on the market with those kind of clocks matching the Windforce and again embarassing Asus with their measly 954 MHz. I notice that the MSI review says "MSI is using the same OnSemi NCP4206 voltage controller as on the reference design. It supports software voltage control and monitoring via I2C." implying only that it using the same voltage controller as the reference design..... which is still disappointing unless nVidia had decided to ante up on their own for the Ti and put a beefier one in there that renders the upgrades unnecessary.

As to the article and hi VRM temps, that's not uncommon (as indicated by your Asus reference)..... but that will be a non issue with water cooling, my VRMs never break 50C. I do recall.....don't know what review it was but they noted that the VRM was missing a thermal pad which would account for unusually high temps. Perhaps the Asus Poseidon is your answer.... provided great air cooling and water cooling btho I have to say I am not aware of what ya do with the fan shroud once ya move to water and how long the PCB is.

Again, back in the day when I did the "Enthoo II" recommendations post, Phanteks did advise that they were already working on "Reservoir Bracket II", but given the delays on the new cases, accessories and such, I'm not quite sure where it sits on the delivery schedule.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Leeford*
> 
> Thanks for that explanation of PWM fan header & VV fans headers. I wonder how the fan headers on this PSU would function with the hub. (This has 4 case fan headers)
> 
> http://www.bequiet.com/en/powersupply/299
> 
> Here is the quote from the manual concerning their usage. I guess they are simply more VV headers but not sure if they operate the same as Mobo headers. This seems to use a case heat sensor to determine fan speed where a mobo header uses the board heat, which may or may not be different.


I don't get it..... the PSU in the Enthoo is spacially and thermally isolated to a great extent from the rest of the case.... Where is it's thermal sensor the PSU is using ? If in the PSU, how will it respond to temperatures on the other side of the MoBo backplate ? If you are water cooling, then we certainly wouldn't want case temps controlling rad fans so this would control the front fans, rear fan and optional side panel fans ?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chrisnyc75*
> 
> Yeah, I would agree that the software is more user-friendly, and therefore preferable, but the problem is that it's designed as an interface with the bios.... so fan adjustments made in AI Suite II cause changes to the bios settings. But since the bios settings only allow a straight line (i.e. low point and high point) curve for fan control, the third point in the software curve gets lost -- or possibly conflicts with the bios settings. In other words, if I turn OFF fan control in the bios, but turn it ON in AI Suite, when I go back into the bios fan control is turned back ON (by AI Suite).
> 
> Thanks for the insight, though. I'm going to play around with it more this weekend and keep an eye on the fans. It may just be a matter of finding the rpm setting that these particular fans are happy with and leaving it at that. My cooling system is so overkill I don't think the fan curve really makes much difference anyway.


I can tell you that FanXpert2 trumps the BIOS. For example..... in BIOS all Fan Q Control is enabled and lists a minimum fan speed of 600 rpm. However what I see in FanXpert2 is:

Rad Fans - Text Description:
Max Speed = 1201 rpm
Min Speed = 285 rpm
Fan Run when Power Is > Than = 372 rpm
Controllable Range = 29% - 100%

Rad Fans - Graph Description:
0% = 0 rpm
10% = 0 rpm
20% = 0 rpm
30% = 432 rpm
40% = 567 rpm
50% = 694 rpm
60% = 821 rpm
70% = 931 rpm
80% = 1041 rpm
90% = 1149 rpm
100% = 1201 rpm

Measured Fan Speed at 25C = 420 rpm (30% mark on curve)

Case Fans - Text Description:
Max Speed = 1289 rpm
Min Speed = 321 rpm
Fan Run when Power Is > Than = 258 rpm
Controllable Range = 26% - 100%

Case Fans - Graph Description:
0% = 0 rpm
10% = 0 rpm
20% = 0 rpm
30% = 455 rpm
40% = 605 rpm
50% = 739 rpm
60% = 875 rpm
70% = 991 rpm
80% = 1109 rpm
90% = 1230 rpm
100% = 1239 rpm

Measured Fan Speed at 25C = 383 rpm (28% mark on curve)

So we can see that both sets of fans are spinning slower than the 600 rpm minimum in the BIOS. We also see that % of power does not = % of speed and i dunno why the same fan responds differently whether it's on rads or case tho I expect it's due to SP. When running stress tests, the fans do stay on curve.

I'd suggest:

1. Leave BIOS set to Enabled / Standard / 600 rpm and then
2. Go to the initial FanXpert2 page (not the individual fan pages) and click the FAN TUNING button on the lower left of the top window.
3. Let it do it's thing, fans will speed up / slow down / turn off / turn on.
4. Set ya curves.

I have for Rad fans at the moment:

30% @ 30C
65% @ 60C
100% @ 75C

and for Case Fans

28% @ 40C
65% @ 60C
100% @ 75C

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Nice!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> we are now official


Damn now I need a new case .... don't feel rebellious anymore









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr Mari0o*
> 
> Hey guys I plan on buying one of these cases in white. I'm currently debatng on the rad size for the bottom of the case. I currently have a nexxos xt45 480 for the top and I was thinking of getting a second one for the bottom. I was also Looking at the monsta 80mm 360.
> Which would be best dual xt45 480's or a xt45 480+monsta 360?? I only have one 780ti and 4770k to cool at the moment but I plan on throwing a second gpu in there before the end of year.
> 
> Any and all help will be very greatly appreciated


For twin 780 Tis you will be able to maintain the desired Delta T of 10C with a 4.6 Ghz OC on a 4770k and 25% OCs on twin 780 Tis (with fan filters removed) with just a 420 + 280 and only fans in push. With stock filters in place and no other bottom mods that goes up to 12.8C...... knock an estimated 21% off those numbers on push pull.

An XT45-480 will give ya just 5 less watts than the 420 in push ..... here's some numbers for comparison:

XT45-420 + UT60-280 = 420 watts in push / 508 in push-pull (Reference)

XT45-480 + XT45-480 = 490 watts in push / 592 in push-pull
XT45-480 + Monsta-360 = 442 watts in push / 535 in push-pull

To download charts summarizing all martins tests for the 360 rads and extrapolations for 120, 240, 480, 140, 280 and 420, go to:
http://www.overclock.net/t/1457426/radiator-size-estimator

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jrcbandit*
> 
> So my main questions regarding the Enthoo Primo:
> 1) Does the Enthoo Primo have the option to use screws normally in the 5.25 bays and can you remove with the door covering the 5.25 bay (and does it look okay to do so)?
> 2) Will it be easy to fit 4 hard drives and a large radiator on the bottom of the case? I have a 360 radiator at top and I was thinking of upgrading my 120 radiator to something larger - just looking at the case it seems a 240 radiator would absolutely be 0 issue, but I am not sure about a 360 or larger radiator.


To install my temp monitor / fan controller, I had to pop off the latch as the unit is too short. I used screws and then popped the latch back on for aesthetics. The latch holds the optical snugly and w/o vibration. Can't offer an opinion on bat res's w/ pumps tho as I'm not a fan of having that stuff up in there..

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jrcbandit*
> 
> Thanks for the info, sounds like the case could work well for me. I have 3 normal hard drives that could fit in the bay and a SSD that could go in the special SSD mount. The problem with the ATSC 840 screwless option was that it only has all the screw holes on the right side, it lacked half the screw holes on the left side which so happened to be the ones that the reservoir use/line up with...
> 
> With a single D5 vario pump, a CPU and GPU block, would 2 360 radiators be recommended or should I go 360 and 240? Someday I may get a 2nd video card so that would then be two GPU blocks.


Yes, screw holes on both sides. The case is perfectly designed for a 4.6 GHz Haswell and twin top end GFX cards (780 / 780 Tis). From a fitting and usage standpoint, to get max use of all case features (i.e res bracket , easily accessible top fill port, access to all MoBo features and cables, no blocking of cable grommets, etc.) an XT45-420 and UT60-280 will provide all necessary cooling needs for a Delta T of 10.5C. I'll compare that with your listed options

XT45-360 + UT60-240 w/ 1250 rpm fans = 308 watts in push / 374 in push pull
XT45-360 + UT60-360 w/ 1250 rpm fans = 371 watts in push / 449 in push pull
XT45-420 + UT60-280 w/ 1250 rpm fans = 420 watts in push / 508 in push pull

-The 360 and 240 will cost ya $157 and you'll need 5 fans for $90 fans for $75 to get started w/ 1 card or $227 ($0.74 per watt) .... add $75 when ya go to push / pull w/ 2nd GFX card for a $302 total cost

-The 360 and 360 will cost ya $180 and you'll need 6 fans for $90 to get started w/ 1 card or $270 ($0.73 per watt) .... add $90 when ya go to push / pull w/ 2nd GFX card
for a $360 total cost

-The 420 and 280 will cost ya $162 and you'll need 3 more Phanteks fans * for $45 to get started w/ 1 card or $207 ($0.49 per watt) .... add $75 when ya go to push / pull w/ 2nd GFX card for a $282 total cost

Case comes with 5 fans, 2 of which are available for rad usage at top and bottom.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kangk81*
> 
> Unfortunately, I'm also new to WC as can be seen by my noobish tubing in my pic 2-3 post up but what I can tell you is a single GPU can run hotter than a single CPU when gaming. So for a single GPU & single CPU config, a single 360mm or 480mm rad should be more than enough. There is no hard and fast rule for WC which is ultimately decided by your budget and imagination. I recommend reading the WC section of OCN for more ideas and guides.


The "rule of thumb" oft quoted .... 1x120mm for each component + 1 spare doesn't rung true for me..... to my mind a rule that uses the same rad allocation for a 100 watt and 300 watt GFX card might be fine in the middle range but has gotta be outta whack at the edges. It's a simple matter to calculate max theoretical load just by adding up the wattage of your components. For example I calculated 792 watts for my system at max OC and running Furmark I draw about 685 from the wall (CPU currently at stock and GFX cards a lil less than max normal OC)....That's about 620 watts "inside the PC" but figure add 30 watts to get GFX back at max OC and I can read from the utilities that my CPU under Furmark is 100 watts under its max as Furmark doesn't push CPU..... so I am at 750 .... perty darn close to the calculated and my pump is only at half speed so that shaved off another 23 watts.

So knowing that's good, all ya have to do is grab ya rad's capabilities and compare the two. Now keeping in mind that lotta heat is directly radiated by items no in martins rad tests (i.e. rad shroud, MoBo heat sinks, backplates, blocks, fittings, tubes etc)..... add in the fact that nothing you are ever going to run will stress everything at the same time.... through trial and error, and asking around for system / temp data, we came up with a factor of 60% to be handled by the rads. So let's say you are water cooling a 4770k (140 watts) and a 780 Ti (300 watts) both overclocked, a MoBo Block (20 watts) and a pump wasting some heat to the loop (20 watts), you'd have 480 watts .... 780 with a 2nd card.

480 x 60% = 288 watts
780 x 60% = 468 watts

An XT45-420 on the top of the Enthoo would give ya 250 watts and a Delta T of about 14.8C in push w/ 1250 rpm fans and 1 GFX card
An XT45-420 on the top and UT60-280 on the bottom of the Enthoo would give ya 420 watts and a Delta T of about 8.8C in push w/ 1250 rpm fans and 1 GFX card
An XT45-420 on the top and UT60-280 on the bottom of the Enthoo would give ya 508 watts and a Delta T of about 11.8C in push-pull w/ 1250 rpm fans and 2 GFX cards

All of Martins test data for 360's is summarized and downloadable in spreadsheet format here with extrapolations for 120. 240, 480, 140, 280 and 420 rads also tabulated.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1457426/radiator-size-estimator


----------



## Gabrielzm

[


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



quote name="kangk81" url="/t/1418637/official-phanteks-enthoo-primo-owners-club/3590#post_22121856"]If only I have gotten the ref cards in the beginning. The EVGA Classifieds are simply too long to fit a tube res. I ended up using bay res,

[/quote]



Can you confirm the space between the end of your cards and plate separating the 5.25 bays from the bottom? If I am not mistaken you have more than 50 mm there which might be used with some drilling to fit a 50 mm reservoir there. Another user is considering this so it would be great if you take that measure and post it here.


----------



## kangk81

I definitely have around 50mm of space if not more in there. But I'm not a great fan of drilling holes into the casing so I'm sticking with the bay res for now.

Perhaps in the future when I'm in the drilling mood I'll work something out.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kangk81*
> 
> I definitely have around 50mm of space if not more in there. But I'm not a great fan of drilling holes into the casing so I'm sticking with the bay res for now.
> 
> Perhaps in the future when I'm in the drilling mood I'll work something out.


thks mate!







If you can confirm latter the exact number that would be helpful to others.

Cheers


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> [If only I have gotten the ref cards in the beginning. The EVGA Classifieds are simply too long to fit a tube res. I ended up using bay res,
> 
> Can you confirm the space between the end of your cards and plate separating the 5.25 bays from the bottom? If I am not mistaken you have more than 50 mm there which might be used with some drilling to fit a 50 mm reservoir there. Another user is considering this so it would be great if you take that measure and post it here.


You can get that data off the drawing in post # 1000 of this thread ..... take that dimension from back of case to the plate and subtract card length.

There's also another option to consider. I have CAD drawings of the necessary brackets.


----------



## jrcbandit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> To install my temp monitor / fan controller, I had to pop off the latch as the unit is too short. I used screws and then popped the latch back on for aesthetics. The latch holds the optical snugly and w/o vibration. Can't offer an opinion on bat res's w/ pumps tho as I'm not a fan of having that stuff up in there..
> Yes, screw holes on both sides. The case is perfectly designed for a 4.6 GHz Haswell and twin top end GFX cards (780 / 780 Tis). From a fitting and usage standpoint, to get max use of all case features (i.e res bracket , easily accessible top fill port, access to all MoBo features and cables, no blocking of cable grommets, etc.) an XT45-420 and UT60-280 will provide all necessary cooling needs for a Delta T of 10.5C. I'll compare that with your listed options
> 
> XT45-360 + UT60-240 w/ 1250 rpm fans = 308 watts in push / 374 in push pull
> XT45-360 + UT60-360 w/ 1250 rpm fans = 371 watts in push / 449 in push pull
> XT45-420 + UT60-280 w/ 1250 rpm fans = 420 watts in push / 508 in push pull
> 
> -The 420 and 280 will cost ya $162 and you'll need 3 more Phanteks fans * for $45 to get started w/ 1 card or $207 ($0.49 per watt) .... add $75 when ya go to push / pull w/ 2nd GFX card for a $282 total cost
> 
> Case comes with 5 fans, 2 of which are available for rad usage at top and bottom.


Glad to hear that the 5.25 bay should work with both a short fan controller (mine is rather short too) and most likely the reservoir if all screw holes are present (in my current case, one side only has 2 out of 4 holes due to some metal piece that bends slightly inward to help hold screwless dvd drive, etc in place). The screwless stuff is more trouble than it's worth other than making optical drives easy to insert and remove ;p.

I like the idea of an UT60 on the bottom which would allow the use of two of the fans that come with the Enthoo Primo, thanks for the suggestion. I would be pairing it with my existing XSPC EX360 radiator with Gentle Typhoon AP-15 fans in push/pull. Would no longer be symmetrical with 120mm GT fans at the top of the case and Phantek 140mm fans on the bottom of the case, but I'd rather start putting some of that money towards a 2nd graphics card for now.


----------



## kangk81

Quote:


> The "rule of thumb" oft quoted .... 1x120mm for each component + 1 spare doesn't rung true for me..... to my mind a rule that uses the same rad allocation for a 100 watt and 300 watt GFX card might be fine in the middle range but has gotta be outta whack at the edges. It's a simple matter to calculate max theoretical load just by adding up the wattage of your components. For example I calculated 792 watts for my system at max OC and running Furmark I draw about 685 from the wall (CPU currently at stock and GFX cards a lil less than max normal OC)....That's about 620 watts "inside the PC" but figure add 30 watts to get GFX back at max OC and I can read from the utilities that my CPU under Furmark is 100 watts under its max as Furmark doesn't push CPU..... so I am at 750 .... perty darn close to the calculated and my pump is only at half speed so that shaved off another 23 watts.
> 
> So knowing that's good, all ya have to do is grab ya rad's capabilities and compare the two. Now keeping in mind that lotta heat is directly radiated by items no in martins rad tests (i.e. rad shroud, MoBo heat sinks, backplates, blocks, fittings, tubes etc)..... add in the fact that nothing you are ever going to run will stress everything at the same time.... through trial and error, and asking around for system / temp data, we came up with a factor of 60% to be handled by the rads. So let's say you are water cooling a 4770k (140 watts) and a 780 Ti (300 watts) both overclocked, a MoBo Block (20 watts) and a pump wasting some heat to the loop (20 watts), you'd have 480 watts .... 780 with a 2nd card.
> 
> 480 x 60% = 288 watts
> 780 x 60% = 468 watts
> 
> An XT45-420 on the top of the Enthoo would give ya 250 watts and a Delta T of about 14.8C in push w/ 1250 rpm fans and 1 GFX card
> An XT45-420 on the top and UT60-280 on the bottom of the Enthoo would give ya 420 watts and a Delta T of about 8.8C in push w/ 1250 rpm fans and 1 GFX card
> An XT45-420 on the top and UT60-280 on the bottom of the Enthoo would give ya 508 watts and a Delta T of about 11.8C in push-pull w/ 1250 rpm fans and 2 GFX cards
> 
> All of Martins test data for 360's is summarized and downloadable in spreadsheet format here with extrapolations for 120. 240, 480, 140, 280 and 420 rads also tabulated.
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1457426/radiator-size-estimator
> Edited by JackNaylorPE - Today at 11:22 am


Hmm.. judging by the numbers in the test. It seems my GPU loop is barely adequate for twin 770s. I'm getting delta T of 15-20 degC on top of ambient on my cooled coolant temp.


----------



## Strider49

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Don't have this reservoir but it looks like it would fit without problem even with the classified. But here is another idea. Keep the metal reservoir bracket (the one with the cut on it not the plastic piece) and take it to a metal shop and cut it a little bit deeper. Then you would be able to fit the classified there + the reservoir. I have a regular titan (10.5 or ~267 mm) + Ek reservoir (60 mm and still have room to spare). Your future classified
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> + 50 mm reservoir will give you ~the same space occupied that I have. You will have to mod a little bit (metal shop to cut the piece deeper) and perhaps drill a few holes to align the reservoir but will look a lot better and be more functional I think. You can have an idea of the cut + drill + painting job on the reservoir bracket looking at my build log.
> 
> Also notice that Aquacomputer just released *(EDIT- well, I think was released last year...)* a version of their reservoirs with 50 mm width too. Some versions even have the fill level sensor in the reservoir.
> 
> http://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?products_id=3049
> 
> Hope it helps mate.
> Gabriel


Thank you once again.







I've been doing some research, and found out the dimensions of the Classified are 11'' x 1.5'' x 5.9''. From the pdf 'EnthooDimensions' on post #1000 of this thread, made by JackNaylorPE, I was able to retrieve the measures for the clearances between the edge of the card and the side panel and between the other edge of the card and the back of the 5.25'' bays: the first is ~47mm and the latter is 64mm.
So, no chance of fitting the 50mm res on the back panel, unless I raise it to a point where it'd fit above the card, I guess, using the top few holes to mount the "bracket". This is because I plan on installing the Classified in the lowest PCIe x16 slot of the Hero and putting the sound card in the uppermost x1 slot, so that it won't block the airflow to the graphics card. I don't know if I'm thinking right, I'm just doing some visualisation.
On the other hand, if I choose to put the res to the right of the MoBo, and it'd certainly look a lot better, there's plenty of space to do so. The problem is the cutting, it's only 0.1 or 0.2 more inches, but I don't have the skills or the tools to do that... I guess I'll just follow your advice and take the bracket to a metal shop or a friend. I wonder if Phanteks will sell the bracket and the plastic cover later as an add-on... If so, I'd be much more prone to make the cutting and drilling. If I or a friend screwed the first one up, I'd at least have a spare one.
Btw, just ordered the Classy, it should be here only next week, I guess (Easter Holiday).








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> Well I don't know that I'd call it a flaw ..... in any design you have to make compromises and I think Phanteks went all out to accommodate 95+% of the cards out there.....yes a 1/2 inch or even a few mm here and there would make it accommodate a few more things and this was referenced in my "Enthoo Primo II Suggestions" post, but eventually, when you keep making the case bigger and bigger to accommodate everything, then you are no longer unique .... you basically have a Case Labs case ad a new price to match.
> 
> It has a reference PCB ? That would be a significant change. The only factory card I know of that has historically had a reference PCB is the EVGA SC series. The MSI and Gigabyte Windforce cards have consistently led the pack in the 7xx series with the highest factory OCs and they have been able to do that by using a multi phase VRM and custom PCB.
> 
> If MSI has gone to a reference PCB and VRM, I am a bit puzzled how they can get a card on the market with those kind of clocks matching the Windforce and again embarassing Asus with their measly 954 MHz. I notice that the MSI review says "MSI is using the same OnSemi NCP4206 voltage controller as on the reference design. It supports software voltage control and monitoring via I2C." implying only that it using the same voltage controller as the reference design..... which is still disappointing unless nVidia had decided to ante up on their own for the Ti and put a beefier one in there that renders the upgrades unnecessary.
> 
> As to the article and hi VRM temps, that's not uncommon (as indicated by your Asus reference)..... but that will be a non issue with water cooling, my VRMs never break 50C. I do recall.....don't know what review it was but they noted that the VRM was missing a thermal pad which would account for unusually high temps. Perhaps the Asus Poseidon is your answer.... provided great air cooling and water cooling btho I have to say I am not aware of what ya do with the fan shroud once ya move to water and how long the PCB is.
> 
> Again, back in the day when I did the "Enthoo II" recommendations post, Phanteks did advise that they were already working on "Reservoir Bracket II", but given the delays on the new cases, accessories and such, I'm not quite sure where it sits on the delivery schedule.


I guess you're right, one has always to make some compromises. Damn, Phanteks did a great job with its first case and I really like the EP. If I have to do some modding to the res bracket to fit my gear, then be it. The case has tremendous versatility out of the box, so I guess I cannot complain.

Yes, MSI 780 Ti TF Gaming has a reference PCB, as you can see in the comments section of the TPU's review (post #23):

http://www.techpowerup.com/forums/threads/msi-geforce-gtx-780-ti-gaming-3072-mb.196335/

And the Gigabyte WF 3X OC has one too, as far as I know, only the GHz edition comes with a custom PCB, featuring a 10+2 phase VRM. Asus, I don't know why, played small on this one... 954MHz? C'mon... Even EVGA followed this trend... Dual Classified clocked @1020MHz only? Same as MSI Gaming and Gigabyte WF 3x OC featuring reference PCBs?? I guess this has something to do with a policy by nVIDIA. See here the explanation:

http://www.hardwareluxx.com/index.php/reviews/hardware/vgacards/29152%20%20.html?start=19

The PCB of the Poseidon is 11.3'' long, same as 780 (Ti) DCII. I had that already in my shortlist, but I discarded it because the WB does not cover the VRMs or the memory, as far as I know. Besides that, the memories should be Elpida, right?

I ended up ordering the Classified, but the first 14 days will be sort of a trial period. If I see that the card cores don't OC as much as they should, being it a Classified card, at a high price tag (appart from the silicon lottery), and don't keep up with the beefed up circuitry and unlocked voltages, I might just return the card and get a cheaper one like the Asus DCII OC.


----------



## Astote-ap

Newegg emailed that the white case is back in stock. Just placed my order


----------



## rpjkw11

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Astote-ap*
> 
> Newegg emailed that the white case is back in stock. Just placed my order


THANKS for the heads up!!!!!!!!!!! Went to Newegg fully expecting the Primo to be sold out, but it wasn't!! I bought one, too.









Man, white really sets off the design!! I have the black one and I've come to really appreciate the design and creative thinking that went into the case. But white seems to accentuate the original thoughts to create a masterpiece. I can't wait until it gets here.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jrcbandit*
> 
> I like the idea of an UT60 on the bottom which would allow the use of two of the fans that come with the Enthoo Primo, thanks for the suggestion. I would be pairing it with my existing XSPC EX360 radiator with Gentle Typhoon AP-15 fans in push/pull. Would no longer be symmetrical with 120mm GT fans at the top of the case and Phantek 140mm fans on the bottom of the case, but I'd rather start putting some of that money towards a 2nd graphics card for now.


I considered a Monsta but it gave a barely measurable increase in performance and it would block the cable opening grommet on the PSU cover..... in the end I didn't use it, ....so far.... but it's likely one I add the 2nd set of push fans.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kangk81*
> 
> Hmm.. judging by the numbers in the test. It seems my GPU loop is barely adequate for twin 770s. I'm getting delta T of 15-20 degC on top of ambient on my cooled coolant temp.


What's in it ?

To go from 20C to 10C double what ya have
To go from 15C to 10C, add 50% of what have have


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Strider49*
> 
> So, no chance of fitting the 50mm res on the back panel, unless I raise it to a point where it'd fit above the card, I guess, using the top few holes to mount the "bracket". This is because I plan on installing the Classified in the lowest PCIe x16 slot of the Hero and putting the sound card in the uppermost x1 slot, so that it won't block the airflow to the graphics card. I don't know if I'm thinking right, I'm just doing some visualisation.


Wasn't able to check the MoBo manual as site is down but does the lower slot do x16 ? Not sure what the concern is about air flow to the HFX card .....water cooled no ? And you can mount fans on the side of the HD cages pointing to ya cards.
Quote:


> On the other hand, if I choose to put the res to the right of the MoBo, and it'd certainly look a lot better, there's plenty of space to do so. The problem is the cutting, it's only 0.1 or 0.2 more inches, but I don't have the skills or the tools to do that... I guess I'll just follow your advice and take the bracket to a metal shop or a friend. I wonder if Phanteks will sell the bracket and the plastic cover later as an add-on... If so, I'd be much more prone to make the cutting and drilling. If I or a friend screwed the first one up, I'd at least have a spare one.


Soon after release they were reportedly working on Res Bracket II .... haven't heard anything on the topic since. There is the twin res option in my last post. That was my fall back plan as I didn't wan't to do any "subtractive" mods to the case .... don't mind adding, but cutting is something O prefer to avoid. I can post CAD or PDF drawings of the necessary brackets which I had already designed.

Quote:


> Btw, just ordered the Classy, it should be here only next week, I guess (Easter Holiday).


I'm hoping you mean the EVGA Classsified w/ EK Water Block and not the EVGA / Swiftech effort sold by EVGA as the Hydrocopper. The VRM temps on the Classy with EK wate block are, if I recall correctly +33C ..... on the Hydrocopper, it's a whopping +62C. You can see the data in the extremerigs video where the dude from So. Africa tets a slew of 780 / Titan waterblocks..... The Titan, 780 and 780 Ti all use the same WB.
Quote:


> Yes, MSI 780 Ti TF Gaming has a reference PCB, as you can see in the comments section of the TPU's review (post #23):
> 
> http://www.techpowerup.com/forums/threads/msi-geforce-gtx-780-ti-gaming-3072-mb.196335/


I see what the poster is claiming but the two pictures are have numerous discrepancies.... though the positioning of major components is teh same, my assumption at te request of water block vendors







, definitely different PCBs



Quote:


> And the Gigabyte WF 3X OC has one too, as far as I know, only the GHz edition comes with a custom PCB, featuring a 10+2 phase VRM. Asus, I don't know why, played small on this one... 954MHz? C'mon... Even EVGA followed this trend... Dual Classified clocked @1020MHz only? Same as MSI Gaming and Gigabyte WF 3x OC featuring reference PCBs??


Very little data on the PCBs for the 780 Ti series....seems like reviewers are being pressured not to address this fact. AFAIK, from the 5xx series on up, all factory OC'd cards from Asus (DCII), Gigabyte (Windforce) and MSI (Gaming Series) have had custom PCBs and beefed up VRMs.....have seen almost nil info in this regard on the 780 Ti.....I get a bit annoyed the claim that this is only valuable if you are unlocking voltages .... as if the greater number of phases and lowered heat generated by the beefier VRM has no value.
Quote:


> The PCB of the Poseidon is 11.3'' long, same as 780 (Ti) DCII. I had that already in my shortlist, but I discarded it because the WB does not cover the VRMs or the memory, as far as I know. Besides that, the memories should be Elpida, right?


I would say no.

The Asus 780 DCII is listed on newegg as 11.3" long, but we know with the cooler removed, it's only 10.5" long. You can see in the newegg pics that the cooler clearly overhangs (look at pic of underside) the PCB here:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814121779

The Asus 780 Ti DCII is also listed on newegg as 11.3" long, we have no confirmation of the length with the cooler removed but again you can see in the newegg pics that the cooler clearly overhangs the PCB here:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814121838

The Asus 780 Poseidon is also listed on newegg as 11.3" long, we have no confirmation of the length with the cooler removed but again you can see in the newegg pics that the cooler clearly overhangs the PCB here:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814121869

Now we also know from EK that the Titan, 780 and 780 Ti all use the same water block which is a bit indicative that they are all the same PCB, perhaps with different components thereon but in the same layout.

Guru3D also reports .....

http://www.guru3d.com/articles_pages/asus_gtx_780_poseidon_platinum_review,2.html
Quote:


> The card is give or take 10.5 inches in length which is like 27 cm for those that like and reside in the Metric system.


It repeats that later in the same page with a pic and gain 2 pages later. They also state that it is a reference PCB.

Tho when first announced it was something I saw as a a very worthwhile product..... and while I agree it is .... an excellent choice for those comfy with AIOs or not quite budget to go to WC from the getgo, it's not something I see as displacing the standard card / WB arrangement..... Tho given the poor performance of the Hydrocopper, I see room in the market for both a Poseidon (2nd tier card) and an Asus / real EK WB combo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rpjkw11*
> 
> THANKS for the heads up!!!!!!!!!!! Went to Newegg fully expecting the Primo to be sold out, but it wasn't!! I bought one, too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Man, white really sets off the design!! I have the black one and I've come to really appreciate the design and creative thinking that went into the case. But white seems to accentuate the original thoughts to create a masterpiece. I can't wait until it gets here.


When I read the above post, i went and looked and nada .... as of now it's back up tho.


----------



## Seid Dark

So with 780 Classy bay res is the only option if you don't want to cut the res bracket? Massive disappointment. I thought Enthoo Primo was supposed to be enthusiast case but I guess they forgot about custom pcb's altogether







GJ Phanteks. Really great design work there.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seid Dark*
> 
> So with 780 Classy bay res is the only option if you don't want to cut the res bracket? Massive disappointment. I thought Enthoo Primo was supposed to be enthusiast case but I guess they forgot about custom pcb's altogether
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> GJ Phanteks. Really great design work there.


Well, you can always remove the bracket altogether and place the reservoir on the back panel where the mb also goes...


----------



## kangk81

Quote:


> I'm hoping you mean the EVGA Classsified w/ EK Water Block and not the EVGA / Swiftech effort sold by EVGA as the Hydrocopper. The VRM temps on the Classy with EK wate block are, if I recall correctly +33C ..... on the Hydrocopper, it's a whopping +62C. You can see the data in the extremerigs video where the dude from So. Africa tets a slew of 780 / Titan waterblocks..... The Titan, 780 and 780 Ti all use the same WB.


HEre's the link.

http://www.xtremerigs.net/2013/09/08/swiftech-komodo/

Now I know how inadequate the swiftech blocks are and starting to regret getting the GTX770 hydrocopper just to shave a hundred dollars off 2 water blocks... I should be damned


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> I considered a Monsta *but it gave a barely measurable increase in performance* and it would block the cable opening grommet on the PSU cover..... in the end I didn't use it, ....so far.... but it's likely one I add the 2nd set of push fans.
> What's in it ?
> 
> To go from 20C to 10C double what ya have
> To go from 15C to 10C, add 50% of what have have


Where do you get that at?

http://www.overclock.net/t/1309645/bundymania-user-review-triple-radiator-360-roundup-with-22-rads/

Monsta beats ALL other rads in performance at speeds of 1200rpms and above with single fans, and as I've found the difference is exaggerated at even lower fan speeds in push-pull (and no one should be running a monsta with a single set of fans in any case imho).

My 360 monsta totally kicks my 480 XT45s butt by more than a 1C difference in temps between the inlet and outlet at 1000rpms or above w/ AP15s in push-pull. I was running both rads together in the case where I first noticed the 360 monsta always had the wider difference in inlet / outlet temps measured by inline temp sensors, so I reversed flow through the rads and the result was the same. Then I ran each rad individually on the bench with the AP-15s. Regardless of what I did every single time result is always the same. My 360 monsta always beats my 480 XT45 at 1000 rpms or above, and at lower fan speeds they are essentially identical in temps, and that's saying something because the Monsta is handicapped by one less fan in surface area. Heck, at full blast (I get about 1700rpms max from my AP-15s) I get more than a 2C improvement with the Monsta over the XT45.

While I surprised by my results, I probably shouldn't have been. My results were really just reflections of what can be seen in Bundy's testing which shows a 1.6C difference between a 360 Monsta & 360 XT45 at 1200 rpms with single fans, and add to that Martin's testing which shows push-pull can net a ~30% increase in performance over a single set of fans, especially true on thicker rads and less-so with thinner rads.


----------



## kangk81

I discovered a real flaw while fiddling with the case today.



The bottom piece which holds the built in fan filters has a piece in the center that obstructs fan screw fitment. All is fine if you're only fitting a 240mm or 280mm rad there because you can slide the fan to either side of the center piece. If you're using a 360mm rad, there are 2 fan screws right next to each other which doesn't matter whether you slide it one way or the other cos once of the screws will be blocked. I remembered leaving out 1 screw when I first built the case.


Out comes the good old file and elbow grease
http://s651.photobucket.com/user/yukang/media/Phantek/fitted.jpg.html
And no more obstruction.

I though Phantek should have this covered since the bottom of the case was marketed to hold up to a 480mm rad


----------



## chrisnyc75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seid Dark*
> 
> So with 780 Classy bay res is the only option if you don't want to cut the res bracket? Massive disappointment. I thought Enthoo Primo was supposed to be enthusiast case but I guess they forgot about custom pcb's altogether
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> GJ Phanteks. Really great design work there.


It's definitely the one glaring flaw in the design. However, that said, it's really not that difficult to dremel out the notch an inch or so to allow for fitting any gpu you want.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kangk81*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Out comes the good old file and elbow grease
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://s651.photobucket.com/user/yukang/media/Phantek/fitted.jpg.html
> And no more obstruction.
> 
> 
> 
> I though Phantek should have this covered since the bottom of the case was marketed to hold up to a 480mm rad


I wouldn't call it a flaw. I'm not sure why there should be any need to have every screw in every fan on the bottom of the rad seeing as you also have the weight of the rad helping to hold everything in place. I have (well, 'had' actually, as I currently have most everything stripped down again) my 360 monsta in the bottom and the cross-piece blocking one of fan screws didn't really phase me. I'd be totally good with 2 screws per fan down there to be honest.


----------



## kangk81

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> I wouldn't call it a flaw. I'm not sure why there should be any need to have every screw in every fan on the bottom of the rad seeing as you also have the weight of the rad helping to hold everything in place. I have my 360 in the bottom and the cross-piece blocking one of fan screws didn't really phase me. I'd be totally good with 2 screws per fan down there to be honest.


I'm just being fussy about not having it screwed down.

Perhaps it has got something to do with my job as an aerospace technician..... ya know.. where we gotta screw every loose screw.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kangk81*
> 
> I'm just being fussy about not having it screwed down.
> 
> Perhaps it has got something to do with my job as an aerospace technician..... ya know.. where we gotta screw every loose screw.


lol, I sure hope when you go to launch your Primo into space that the bottom support doesn't fail where you weakened it when you filed it. It'd be such a shame to see such a nice case coming apart under all the g-forces.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Where do you get that at?
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1309645/bundymania-user-review-triple-radiator-360-roundup-with-22-rads/
> 
> Monsta beats ALL other rads in performance at speeds of 1200rpms and above with single fans, and as I've found the difference is exaggerated at even lower fan speeds in push-pull (and no one should be running a monsta with a single set of fans in any case imho).


No one said it didn't do any better.....just said it wasn't a lot. The UT delivers 9 watts less or about 95% of what the Monsta can deliver

Data from the curves .....360 rads @ 1250 rpm ...1st three were martins

ST30 = 181 watts
XT45 = 183
UT60 = 188
Monsta = 197

Let's look at just martins data for a second ....

Adding 50% thickness to a 30mm rad gets us just 1.1 % more cooling
Adding 33% thickness to a 45mm rad gets us just 2.7 % more cooling
Adding 100% thickness to a 30mm rad gets us just 3.9 % more cooling

following the logic .....

So given the above, is it logical to assume that adding 43% thickness to a 60mm rad is suddenly gonna produce double digit increases ???

The reason we don't see much out of a 60mm rad as compared with the 30mm is that the air temperature changes as it goes thru the rad..... here's what's happening now running prime 95 with AVX..... measuring 23.7C air at entry is increasing to 25.2C on the other side of the rad and watertemps at 26.0 .... so with my 45mm rad it's dropping roughly 0.25C per 10mm. So....

At 1st 10 mm Delta T = 1.25
At 2nd 10 mm Delta T = 1.00
At 3rd 10 mm Delta T = 0.75
At 4th 10 mm Delta T = 0.50
At 5th 10 mm Delta T = 0.25

The radiator is 5 times more effective in the 1st 10mm than it will be in the last 10mm as the intake air warms on it's way thru. On top of that.... no matter what the fan setup you use....two fans will always push more air thru a thin rad as a thick one and this is a mass / balance equation. More air has more ability to absorb more heat tho a significant part of this is eaten up by less contact time.

I have to go back in the thread and get the original Monsta published source .... the other ones I remember cause I visit often. Never went back to the Monsta cause I couldn't make a case for it at any rpm I'd be willing to run at. I had a bunch of potential sources listed and the one I thought it was isn't it.

http://martinsliquidlab.org/2012/04/12/alphacool-nexxxos-ut60-360-radiator/4/
http://martinsliquidlab.petrastech.com/Radiator-Fan-Orientation-And-Shroud-Testing-Review.html

Martin has indicated push / pull can add anywhere from 10-30% performance difference..... I used 21% in my tables which is from the Martins 2nd link above IIRC. I will be able to conform exactly what P/P does w/ Phanteks fans as soon as I get that 3rd PCB.

With regard to your rads giving widely different results .... I had the same experience....My UT60 280 was giving me 1.3C (in to out drop) with the XT45 was giving me 1.0C ..... makes no sense right ? Took off all the fan grilles and filters and mystery solved..... now the XT45 was doing 1.3C and the UT60 was doing 1.0C but Delta T overall dropped 4.6C by being able to move more air thru the rad.

Looking at the link you used, I note the following

We see the XT45 at 7.2C on Bundy and Martin said 183 watts
We see the UT60 at 6.1C on Bundy and Martin said 188 watts

So.... either one of these tests is borked .... or 5 watts = 1.1C temp difference.

Now we look at the Monsta at 5.6C or 0.5C difference .... based upon the above, what would be the corresponding change in watts ? .... well if 5 watts gets us 1.1C, it should be safe to assume that another 0.5C would be in the neighborhood of 2.5 watts. The other sources had it at 9 watts.

Looking closer.....

Martin has the RX360 coming in 4 places behind the UT360, Bundy has the RX finishing 4 places above the UT360 ?
Martin has the SR-1 360 coming in 5 places behind the UT360, Bundy has the RX finishing 3 places above the UT360 ?

There are some obvious issues with testing in a case as opposed to a lab setting like Martins..... For one....who the heck cares if your Delta T is 5 or 6C ? I didn't build my system to accommodate a 140 watt CPU load under Prime 95 .... I built it to keep everything cool under a 700 watt load. But my biggest issue with "in case" testing is the number of variables. The fact that testing with the measly output of a CPU is barely indicative of conditions with watercooled system that have cards in SLI / CF. With in case testing, your results are inevitably skewed by the low load and cooler air temps inside the case. I'm seeing a measly Delta T of 2.3C and just 1.5C change in air temps across the rad running now with P95. How will the results change when ya have 10C air change across the rad ?

Bundy's results are interesting but in direct conflict with Martins. That doesn't make them invalid, just that I feel more comfy with the laboratory based testing that eliminates all other variables. If you are building a box for competitive OC'ing and won't be adding GFX cards, then that would be a great "go to" source.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seid Dark*
> 
> So with 780 Classy bay res is the only option if you don't want to cut the res bracket? Massive disappointment. I thought Enthoo Primo was supposed to be enthusiast case but I guess they forgot about custom pcb's altogether
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> GJ Phanteks. Really great design work there.


I don't think ya can blame the case manufacturer for an added feature that only works with 99% of the cards out there. Take out the bracket and you have what every other case manufacturer offers and the Classy fits just fine. I have an Asus DCII w/ custom PCB and it fits like the proverbial glove.

The Asus 780 DCII is listed as 11.3" long but when ya take off the air cooler, it's only 10.5".

Newegg reports the 780 Classified @ 10.5" which should be just fine.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814130943

Newegg reports the 780 Ti Classified @ 11.0" which is doable with a little trim work
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814487007

But again, the bracket is an option....it is by no means required.

The Enthoo could fit a 20.2" long GFX cards, 13.8 inches with HD cages in place which should be enough to fit most anything.

277mm (reservoir bracket installed w/o cover)
350mm (no reservoir bracket)
390mm (HDD cages in front position)
515mm (no HDD cages)

With your 11.0" (279.4 mm) Classy card ..... to keep the bracket, you'd have to shave 2mm off the side .... and drill your own res mounting holes about 5mm to the right....otherwise just treat it like any other case that doesn't provide a res bracket.....you can always mount the red off the bottom plate of the 5.25 bays

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kangk81*
> 
> I discovered a real flaw while fiddling with the case today.
> 
> The bottom piece which holds the built in fan filters has a piece in the center that obstructs fan screw fitment. *All is fine if you're only fitting a 240mm or 280mm rad* there because you can slide the fan to either side of the center piece. If you're using a 360mm rad, there are 2 fan screws right next to each other which doesn't matter whether you slide it one way or the other cos once of the screws will be blocked. I remembered leaving out 1 screw when I first built the case.


IIRC, .... it's only beeen 6 months but I'm old and have CRS Syndrome ..... All is fine if you are mounting a 240 or 280 cause Phanteks gives you mounting plate thingie which puts those screws about 1/2' higher










Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



CRS = Can't Remember Shi ..... er..... Can't Cemember Stuff



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kangk81*
> 
> I'm just being fussy about not having it screwed down.
> 
> Perhaps it has got something to do with my job as an aerospace technician..... ya know.. where we gotta screw every loose screw.


Hell I can't sleep at night if my Phillips Head Screws on the fan mountings don't look like:

+..........................+..+..........................+..+..........................+
.
.
.
.
.
+..........................+..+..........................+..*x*..........................+

What .... damn it ..... looks like a tear down in my future .... gotta fix that 2nd screw from the right on the bottom. But then again it's been 5 months and I haven't done my cables yet.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> No one said it didn't do any better.....just said it wasn't a lot. The UT delivers 9 watts less or about 95% of what the Monsta can deliver
> 
> Data from the curves .....360 rads @ 1250 rpm ...1st three were martins
> 
> ST30 = 181 watts
> XT45 = 183
> UT60 = 188
> Monsta = 197
> 
> Let's look at just martins data for a second ....
> 
> Adding 50% thickness to a 30mm rad gets us just 1.1 % more cooling
> Adding 33% thickness to a 45mm rad gets us just 2.7 % more cooling
> Adding 100% thickness to a 30mm rad gets us just 3.9 % more cooling
> 
> following the logic .....
> 
> So given the above, is it logical to assume that adding 43% thickness to a 60mm rad is suddenly gonna produce double digit increases ???
> 
> The reason we don't see much out of a 60mm rad as compared with the 30mm is that the air temperature changes as it goes thru the rad..... here's what's happening now running prime 95 with AVX..... measuring 23.7C air at entry is increasing to 25.2C on the other side of the rad and watertemps at 26.0 .... so with my 45mm rad it's dropping roughly 0.25C per 10mm. So....
> 
> At 1st 10 mm Delta T = 1.25
> At 2nd 10 mm Delta T = 1.00
> At 3rd 10 mm Delta T = 0.75
> At 4th 10 mm Delta T = 0.50
> At 5th 10 mm Delta T = 0.25
> 
> The radiator is 5 times more effective in the 1st 10mm than it will be in the last 10mm as the intake air warms on it's way thru. On top of that.... no matter what the fan setup you use....two fans will always push more air thru a thin rad as a thick one and this is a mass / balance equation. More air has more ability to absorb more heat tho a significant part of this is eaten up by less contact time.
> 
> I have to go back in the thread and get the original Monsta published source .... the other ones I remember cause I visit often. Never went back to the Monsta cause I couldn't make a case for it at any rpm I'd be willing to run at. I had a bunch of potential sources listed and the one I thought it was isn't it.
> 
> http://martinsliquidlab.org/2012/04/12/alphacool-nexxxos-ut60-360-radiator/4/
> http://martinsliquidlab.petrastech.com/Radiator-Fan-Orientation-And-Shroud-Testing-Review.html
> 
> Martin has indicated push / pull can add anywhere from 10-30% performance difference..... I used 21% in my tables which is from the Martins 2nd link above IIRC. I will be able to conform exactly what P/P does w/ Phanteks fans as soon as I get that 3rd PCB.
> 
> With regard to your rads giving widely different results .... I had the same experience....My UT60 280 was giving me 1.3C (in to out drop) with the XT45 was giving me 1.0C ..... makes no sense right ? Took off all the fan grilles and filters and mystery solved..... now the XT45 was doing 1.3C and the UT60 was doing 1.0C but Delta T overall dropped 4.6C by being able to move more air thru the rad.
> 
> Looking at the link you used, I note the following
> 
> We see the XT45 at 7.2C on Bundy and Martin said 183 watts
> We see the UT60 at 6.1C on Bundy and Martin said 188 watts
> 
> So.... either one of these tests is borked .... or 5 watts = 1.1C temp difference.
> 
> Now we look at the Monsta at 5.6C or 0.5C difference .... based upon the above, what would be the corresponding change in watts ? .... well if 5 watts gets us 1.1C, it should be safe to assume that another 0.5C would be in the neighborhood of 2.5 watts. The other sources had it at 9 watts.
> 
> Looking closer.....
> 
> Martin has the RX360 coming in 4 places behind the UT360, Bundy has the RX finishing 4 places above the UT360 ?
> Martin has the SR-1 360 coming in 5 places behind the UT360, Bundy has the RX finishing 3 places above the UT360 ?
> 
> There are some obvious issues with testing in a case as opposed to a lab setting like Martins..... For one....who the heck cares if your Delta T is 5 or 6C ? I didn't build my system to accommodate a 140 watt CPU load under Prime 95 .... I built it to keep everything cool under a 700 watt load. But my biggest issue with "in case" testing is the number of variables. The fact that testing with the measly output of a CPU is barely indicative of conditions with watercooled system that have cards in SLI / CF. With in case testing, your results are inevitably skewed by the low load and cooler air temps inside the case. I'm seeing a measly Delta T of 2.3C and just 1.5C change in air temps across the rad running now with P95. How will the results change when ya have 10C air change across the rad ?
> 
> Bundy's results are interesting but in direct conflict with Martins. That doesn't make them invalid, just that I feel more comfy with the laboratory based testing that eliminates all other variables. [...]


Where exactly did you get your data on the Monsta?
Because Martin never tested one.
Your extrapolations regarding the Monsta are just wrong.

Aaaaaand there's good reason why Bundy's testing is held in higher regard throughout the world, especially in Europe, than Martin's, because Bundy's testing more accurately reflects other's real-life results. Martin is a DIY reviewer with no better 'lab' or methodology. Only here on OCN is Martin given some kind of 'best data' / 'best tester' status. If there's any sort of discrepency between them, I'll take Bundy's results > Martin's any day imho, because I keep seeing the same things on my end.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> [1.] Where exactly did you get your data on the Monsta?
> [2.] Because Martin never tested one.
> [3.] Your extrapolations regarding the Monsta are just wrong.
> 
> Aaaaaand there's good reason why Bundy's testing is held in higher regard throughout the world, especially in Europe, than Martin's, because Bundy's testing more accurately reflects other's real-life results. Martin is a DIY reviewer with no better 'lab' or methodology. Only here on OCN is Martin given some kind of 'best data' / 'best tester' status. If there's any sort of discrepency between them, I'll take Bundy's results > Martin's any day imho, because I keep seeing the same things on my end.


Read the post please ... pardon my editing of your post to add numbers to the referenced question / statements

-To your question 1 ... the post you quoted states:
Quote:


> *I have to go back in the thread and get the original Monsta published source* ..


I haven't as yet had time to reread the 3600+ post thread.

-To your statement 2 ... I never said he did..... the post you quoted states:
Quote:


> Data from the curves .....360 rads @ 1250 rpm ...*1st three were martins*
> 
> ST30 = 181 watts
> XT45 = 183
> UT60 = 188
> Monsta = 197


-To your mistatement 3 They were not extrapolations.... as indicated above, they were from a published source, I recorded the points on a curve from actual testing

I'm also drawing on experience .... PC Water cooling is mostly a "seat of the pants" industry .... the volume simply doesn't support extensive / expensive data testing. Good portion of its industry leaders started in a garage. But just go out and look under the hood of ya car .... seen any thick rads in the last 20 years ? My son just replaced the one in his jeep and I pondered it's design versus my 1st car .... my guess is it puts out more heat that your PC....and even my old 1965 Pontiac tire screecher at 2.5" was thinner than a monsta .... just about as thick as a UT60

As a practicing engineer involved in plant and building design, I am involved in the cooling industry on a large scale. I will always take science over seat of the pants, "I have no idea how many variables are involved". These are billion dollar industries and they do have the wherewithal to do extensive testing because it pays big time in profits with that many units. Thermodynamics is thermodynamics ..... the laws of physics are not suspended because something is put inside a PC. As for who is respected where, I agree you will see a regional variation.... we still have people that are "respected" in some circles who argue that global warming is a myth. I based my system design on Martin's data and the temperature testing (6 temp sensors, 3 power sensors) showed a variation in single digit % points.

I have some questions for ya:

-What does Bundy's test indicate other than how well the *entire system* (air + water cooling) was cooled while running Prime95 ?
-How do we account for the heat removed by the case cooling so as to get an idea of what the rad is doing ?
-How does this change things when running Furmark w/ 2 GFX cards .... 700 watts versus 200 watts ?
-How do you explain away the fact that heat transfer efficiency decreases as air passes through a rad ?
-By the time the air gets to your extra 26mm, it's already getting close to the water temperature at which point heat transfer efficiency has dropped precipitously, so how can we expect a significant "increase" ?
-When I duplicated, Bundy's test, my air temps exiting the rads was just 0.8C below the water temps. How much extra heat transfer can we expect from that extra 40mm of thickness with just 0.8C delta T ?
-Why does the wattage go up so little from the 30 to 45 to 60 mm rads ?
-After those miniscule increases from 30 to 60, what would the logic be that is behind the expectation of a huge change with the Monsta ?
-Why has the auto industry moved to thin radiators ? (We have 5 cars, Porsche 911, Cherokee, Xterra, Volkswagon and Tuscon), Three of em are 1" thick, Tuscon is 3/4"
-Why are air conditioner heat exchangers all < 1" ?
-Why is the evaporator in our 48" commercial freezer only 1/2" thick ? and the heat exchanger on top a stack of four 1/8" thick radiators ?
-If thicker rads do something, why are none of these industries using them ?
-What special conditions exist for PC Rads to make the application of thermodynamic principles different from any of those industries ?

Now....there are conditions where the Monsta can excel....just not in the scenario under discussion. At 1200 rpm, the speed of the air thru the rad allows sufficient contact time with the fins so as to allow heat transfer such that the air temp is close to the water temperature at exit.... this is why extra depth does little.... at water temp of 32C, when 22C ambient air hits those fins, heat transfer is twice that as it is say half way thru at 27C.... by the time it gets to bottom, its already within 1 - 2C of the water temp.

Now at 2200 rpm, the air moves faster ..... so it has less contact time and as such, by the time it gets half way thru the XT45 or UT60, it won't have reached 27C ..... by the time it reaches the exit, it won't be as close to water temps..... now the extra 41 or 26mm has an opportunity to actually accomplish something of significance.


----------



## kangk81

I totally forgot about the built in rad bracket.. Another peculiarity I found is that the position of the 3rd set of fans has a piece of metal that is not perforated. Airflow seems to be 50% lower there as well. Perhaps I'll get some non-threaded standoffs to prop the entire thing up

Sent from my LG-P875 using Tapatalk


----------



## Astote-ap

She Has Arrived:












Can I be added to the list?


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Astote-ap*
> 
> She Has Arrived:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Can I be added to the list?


Nice. Did they change anything on the case? Particularly the reservoir bracket and the bottom filters/feet?


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Astote-ap*
> 
> She Has Arrived:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Can I be added to the list?


Looks very nice. More details please!
Just posting here makes you a member of the group









Mabye we should remove 'Owners' from the thread title and make it "Phanteks Enthoo Primo Club" What do you all think?

The only 'list' is is the 'Link to Gallery, Build Logs, & Specifications'. But no link to get a build add.


----------



## Leeford

Nice! Any changes to the case? (res bracket?) I was also wondering if the LEDs were going to be white on the strip and blue on the front fans?


----------



## setter

Any word guys on a revision 2 of the res bracket. Think i read about it on here. Id like to use mine but its not possible due to the length of my rev 1 gigabyte wf gtx 780. Bit unsure about cutting up the current bracket as i don't have the tools at hand to do so.


----------



## Astote-ap

As soon as I get home I will take pictures and measurements. I'll also look in the manual to see if it says anything about revisions.


----------



## chino1974

The white looks so sweet!!! I think I'm seeing a white Enthoo in my near future. Wifes gonna kill me. Lol!! In the last 2 months I've gone from a 900d- Air 540- Enthoo and now while I use the Enthoo I'm modding a TJ07. But I have a feeling the TJ07 will be repkaced with a white Enthoo really soon.


----------



## Astote-ap

Here's a few more pictures.
Large one including the res bracket. From my measurements, its just over 255mm from the expansion covers to the edge of the bracket. Since i do not own a black one, i cannot say for sure if it's different, but im guessing no change.












and heres a bonus of my classy den (which will look much better when the sager is retired and the primo can be unobstructed)


----------



## Gabrielzm

Thks Astote but we are talking about the bracket below the plastic black cover (your first pic). Can you check that?

cheers


----------



## Astote-ap

Oh, that makes more sense. 

Measurements:

From Expansion covers to close edge: ~255mm
From Expansion covers to deep edge: ~275mm
The "trapezoid" created by the indent is about ~163mm long edge and ~120mm short edge.

Feel free to ask me to measure anything or take more pics.

The only thing wrong with the case I have noticed is that one of the holes for the side panel thumb screws does not align well and i will probably need to widen it in order that the thumbscrew not be slanted/ be really really difficult to put back in.


----------



## doyll

Thanks Astote.

How hard / easy is it to push release / latch the lower front panel? It's a problem many of use have to endure.


----------



## Astote-ap

I can definitely see why some people thought they needed to pull and subsequently break it. The first time was the most difficult, now it's not too bad, unfortunately I have no way to measure the force required; it's a sturdy press though.


----------



## doyll

Thanks Astote. It's easier if you remove the bottom 5.25 cover and use thumb to squeeze with fingers behind the cross piece.








I've notice the crosspiece flexes back a little which makes it harder to get it to release by just pushing on it.


----------



## Tweetbix

Hey guys, looking at getting one of these soon in white and running a WC loop in it.

Out of curiosity, on the white version, is the led strip that runs on the top and front of the case white instead of the blue thats on the black versions?
And also what color are the front 2 140mm fans? Are they also white instead of the blue?

Currently in the planning stages with everything at the moment.


----------



## rpjkw11

Just received my new White Enthoo Primo! I've only had time to remove it from the box (very good packing and materials BTW). Man oh man is she a beauty!!!!! The white Primo is dazzling whereas black just doesn't seem to do the Primo justice. I won't be able do any building until this weekend but it's still something to look forward to.


----------



## brian-phanteks

@tweetbix
The LED color of the front and top strips is white on the white case. Also the LEDs on the fans are white in color.


----------



## cgull

Been wanting one of these ever since I saw the modzoo review. Finally ordered a white one. Should be here late next week. Can't wait. Combination of new and old hardware.


----------



## skywalker311

NEED HELP WITH INSTALLING A MONSOON S2 BAY RES.

I've got a monsoon S2 bay res and it wont fit in the 5 1/2" bay right. The res has these vibration mounts and the case don't have a normal 5 1/2" bay setup. If someone got there's in and got it where it don't vibrate. Please PM me and let me know how you did it. The only way I really see to do it is take the side off and take two of the tool less clips off and drill the two holes for that side and the backside you can see them and I just need to dill that side out a bit.
Or you could cut the the tabs inside the bay drive and put it there and make a cover for the gap on the top.


----------



## Tweetbix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brian-phanteks*
> 
> @tweetbix
> The LED color of the front and top strips is white on the white case. Also the LEDs on the fans are white in color.


Cheers, exactly what I wanted to hear.


----------



## Sanctafied

Here's my contribution to the group (also my first water cooling build, which I think turned out pretty good).


Also, has anyone had any issues with fans on the bottom of the case using a radiator? I'm getting a strange split second grind when I turn it off, which can be felt when touching the bottom radiator. I though about getting some gaskets to see if that helps but wanted to see if anyone else has run into the same issue first.


----------



## Gunilla95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sanctafied*
> 
> Here's my contribution to the group (also my first water cooling build, which I think turned out pretty good).
> 
> 
> Also, has anyone had any issues with fans on the bottom of the case using a radiator? I'm getting a strange split second grind when I turn it off, which can be felt when touching the bottom radiator. I though about getting some gaskets to see if that helps but wanted to see if anyone else has run into the same issue first.


First of all. Nice build!









So i dont really know what you mean. but one of the front Fans (the usual phanteks fans) in my case has this wierd resistans and vibration on low speeds. and especielly when i turn it of and on. the last and first spins of the fan are making the hole case vibrate like the motor had some wierd resistance its working against.
Im gonna make a video and try to capture the problem later after school.

As i said. the fan works normal when it runs at usual speed (40%) or higher. so i dont really care.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brian-phanteks*
> 
> @tweetbix
> The LED color of the front and top strips is white on the white case. Also the LEDs on the fans are white in color.


Thanks Brian.

Are accessory PH-F140HP with white leds available?


----------



## Sanctafied

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gunilla95*
> 
> First of all. Nice build!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So i dont really know what you mean. but one of the front Fans (the usual phanteks fans) in my case has this wierd resistans and vibration on low speeds. and especielly when i turn it of and on. the last and first spins of the fan are making the hole case vibrate like the motor had some wierd resistance its working against.
> Im gonna make a video and try to capture the problem later after school.
> 
> As i said. the fan works normal when it runs at usual speed (40%) or higher. so i dont really care.


Thanks, and I'll look into the resistance of my fans as well, I'm just hoping none of the fans are bad.


----------



## brian-phanteks

@doyll
Yes, PH-F140SP LED fans will be available with white LEDs.


----------



## doyll

Thanks Brian.
Any idea when? I'm assuming all these delays in release of products are the result of your manufacturing sources not being able to supply you guys in a timely manner?


----------



## Gunilla95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sanctafied*
> 
> Thanks, and I'll look into the resistance of my fans as well, I'm just hoping none of the fans are bad.


well mate. i made a video you may have to turn up the volume.





I mean. you cant miss the sound its so load and scary o.o

EDIT: And sorry for the bad camera on My galaxy...








EDIT2: And yes i checked that no cables or anything are in the way.


----------



## Roxycon

When can we buy the 2,5 " sleds? I now have my eight drive incoming but either a modification or a "drop it where it fits" to secure it









On a other note, will plain doors with only the little window be available for the EP?


----------



## Torus15

Will the LED strips running along the sides be available to buy from Phanteks, I'd like to change mine out for either red or white to much the interior planned. Think that white and red will be OK, blue and red No No NO. If Phanteks are using whites in the white case and possibly red ones in the black/red cases I've seen in planning why not make some extra income letting their original BLACK CASE fans customise easier.


----------



## Sparkron

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Torus15*
> 
> Will the LED strips running along the sides be available to buy from Phanteks, I'd like to change mine out for either red or white to much the interior planned. Think that white and red will be OK, blue and red No No NO. If Phanteks are using whites in the white case and possibly red ones in the black/red cases I've seen in planning why not make some extra income letting their original BLACK CASE fans customise easier.


So much this, I would much rather buy this led strip from phanteks than have to jam a different one in there! Please please please Phanteks


----------



## Sanctafied

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gunilla95*
> 
> well mate. i made a video you may have to turn up the volume.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I mean. you cant miss the sound its so load and scary o.o
> 
> EDIT: And sorry for the bad camera on My galaxy...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT2: And yes i checked that no cables or anything are in the way.


Unfortunately that's not the same sound that I am getting, once I get my rig back up and running I will take a video of the sound.
I was going to take a video last night, but I encountered a little problem that has the odd sound the least of my worries.

Problem I have (and the loop has only been together for a month, but I'm glad I caught it before it became a huge issue):










And:


The discoloration seems to be embedded into the plastic, I tried scraping some off but nothing would budge.

Does anyone have any idea what could have caused this?

My loop consists of: Primochill primoflex advanced LRT, Aplhacool Monsta and XT45 radiators, XSPC raystorm full copper cpu block, XSPC AX240 radiator (which I'm planning on switching out for a 240mm XT45), EK GTX Classy acetal and nickel GPU blocks, XSPC dual D5 dual bay res, EK Asus Hero waterblocks, fluid is Ice Dragon (wanted the white look), all main fittings are EK Perfect Seal Compression, fill port is swiftech QDC, and lastly my drain is a Bitspower Extension off the back of my Monsta rad.

Any help is appreciated.


----------



## chino1974

Got bored this rainey weekend so I pulled out the mod tools and decided to mod the front door panel on my Enthoo. Mind you its not done yet just being test fit. Gotta clean up the edges and alil overspray. What do you guys think so far ?


----------



## Roxycon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sanctafied*
> 
> Unfortunately that's not the same sound that I am getting, once I get my rig back up and running I will take a video of the sound.
> I was going to take a video last night, but I encountered a little problem that has the odd sound the least of my worries.
> 
> Problem I have (and the loop has only been together for a month, but I'm glad I caught it before it became a huge issue):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The discoloration seems to be embedded into the plastic, I tried scraping some off but nothing would budge.
> 
> Does anyone have any idea what could have caused this?
> 
> My loop consists of: Primochill primoflex advanced LRT, Aplhacool Monsta and XT45 radiators, XSPC raystorm full copper cpu block, XSPC AX240 radiator (which I'm planning on switching out for a 240mm XT45), EK GTX Classy acetal and nickel GPU blocks, XSPC dual D5 dual bay res, EK Asus Hero waterblocks, fluid is Ice Dragon (wanted the white look), all main fittings are EK Perfect Seal Compression, fill port is swiftech QDC, and lastly my drain is a Bitspower Extension off the back of my Monsta rad.
> 
> Any help is appreciated.


same unit, same problem











im almost 100% sure the colorization is a effect of the glue reacting to something inside the mayhems coolant, as to me im still using it but i want a new res with two d5 mounts


----------



## chino1974

Sorry for the poor quality cell pics. Once the qeather clears I'll be taking her outside and taking some nice pics with my camera.


----------



## Sanctafied

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roxycon*
> 
> same unit, same problem
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> im almost 100% sure the colorization is a effect of the glue reacting to something inside the mayhems coolant, as to me im still using it but i want a new res with two d5 mounts


Alright, thanks for the input, and I'm glad to see it's not just me, lol.
Have you noticed yours getting any worse or is it just at all the edges where the glue is?


----------



## Roxycon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sanctafied*
> 
> Alright, thanks for the input, and I'm glad to see it's not just me, lol.
> Have you noticed yours getting any worse or is it just at all the edges where the glue is?


Only edges on my unit, which together with the fact that I can't see it in blocks and tubes do enforce my glue reaction theory. However I have gotten the coloration up towards the roof of the unit where the coolant is not..

May also have something to do with their warning about a maximum of 60 degree c, but I have no way of measuring the coolant temp


----------



## brian-phanteks

@roxycon
The last update I heard for Primo accessories is that they will be shipping sometime next month. (Dont shoot the messenger)

@torus15 and @sparkron
I havent heard anything about LED strips being available for sale separately, but I will send the request along.


----------



## doyll

Thanks Brian.


----------



## chrisnyc75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brian-phanteks*
> 
> @torus15 and @sparkron
> I havent heard anything about LED strips being available for sale separately, but I will send the request along.


This really would be a great idea since we've all searched the world over and not found a proper ad-hoc led strip to fit the channel. I think you'd be guaranteed to sell alternative colors to at least half the customers that buy the EP case, probably more than that. Heck, I'd probably buy several in different colors just to "future proof" my EP for future build color schemes.


----------



## setter

A colour changing one like that in the upcoming enthoo luxe would be nice.


----------



## Spriggan43

Hi,
Just attempting to see if anyone has resolved the cracking noise from the window and the plastic top and front? I have had the case 4 months now and summer is now over so the noises from the case are dying down.


----------



## Pierre3400

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spriggan43*
> 
> Hi,
> Just attempting to see if anyone has resolved the cracking noise from the window and the plastic top and front? I have had the case 4 months now and summer is now over so the noises from the case are dying down.


I have never noticed any noises. My old Corsair 600T use to make a lot of crackling noise from the window, this was to do with heat and the plexi glass.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Yeah I never noticed the creaking window issue, but quite a few others did post that complaint here in this thread when their cases were new. I believe it's something that tends to go away by itself over time as it gets broken in. I'm sure others who did have the problem will reply with their experiences.


----------



## OutlawII

Has anyone made a clear side window yet? Is phanteks ever going to offer one?


----------



## rpjkw11

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Yeah I never noticed the creaking window issue, but quite a few others did post that complaint here in this thread when their cases were new. I believe it's something that tends to go away by itself over time as it gets broken in. I'm sure others who did have the problem will reply with their experiences.


I had some creaking when I unboxed and started building, but they just disappeared. I chalked it up to adding weight to the case, or some such silly theory. And, so far, I've not had any creaking from my new white EP and it's still empty. BTW, I overheard my wife tell a friend she hope's "they don't come out with another color; the case is too big for three in one room". Yeah, I do love my understanding wife.


----------



## liberato87




----------



## setter

Mine creaks and cracks a little now and then too, mainly when just turned on or after shutting down. My previous bitfenix shinobi xl and an akasa eclipse were the same. Seems to happen on most cases with plastic parts. No such issue on my old Lian Li A70F. But then the only plastic parts in it were the fans and the cables/connectors.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *liberato87*


A very nice build. Really like the cover over radiator and fans in bottom.


----------



## Pierre3400

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OutlawII*
> 
> Has anyone made a clear side window yet? Is phanteks ever going to offer one?


If they did, I would want it! I do not like the tinted window much.


----------



## OutlawII

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pierre3400*
> 
> If they did, I would want it! I do not like the tinted window much.


Same here all that hardware hiding behind a tinted window makes me sad! I will try and make a clear one this weekend


----------



## Pierre3400

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OutlawII*
> 
> Same here all that hardware hiding behind a tinted window makes me sad! I will try and make a clear one this weekend


Over the past few days, i have been in contact with Brian from phantek, he has a user on here, and sneeks around looking at our work.

I asked him about the option of buying White LED strips to replace the blue strips on the black editon. I am not sure if i am the only one wishing for this, but, but he did, we need to all ask, if there are things we would like to buy for our case. That way phantek may bring them up as spares for sale sooner.

Just to keep in mind.


----------



## bigbangSG

are they going to make a reservoir bracket rev 2? me also like a clear window for my enthoo primo


----------



## shilka

Will the Luxe get included in this club when it comes out? or is this Primo only?


----------



## ocCuS

The German vendor caseking.de offers now a pre-build system featuring the white version of the enthoo primo for 4.499,99€.
Here´s the video and pics for someone who´s interested.


----------



## Astote-ap

I feel like for that amount of dough, you'd end up regretting not just doing it yourself. I mean... Where is the monsta push pull?


----------



## chrisnyc75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Astote-ap*
> 
> I feel like for that amount of dough, you'd end up regretting not just doing it yourself. I mean... Where is the monsta push pull?


Yeah, that's not for enthusiasts like us.... but I guess some people would prefer to have all the work done for them. I believe they're called "posers"


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> Will the Luxe get included in this club when it comes out? or is this Primo only?


I've asked if anyone was against allowing other Phanteks cases in and nobody said no... so.... YES! We are not prejudice against other cases.
When they come out we will be a mufti-case club. All Phanteks ethnicities are welcome!.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chrisnyc75*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Astote-ap*
> 
> I feel like for that amount of dough, you'd end up regretting not just doing it yourself. I mean... Where is the monsta push pull?
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah, that's not for enthusiasts like us.... but I guess some people would prefer to have all the work done for them. I believe they're called "posers"
Click to expand...

I think most "posers are "wannabees".








They just wannabee Enthoo Primo owners, but don't know how to do it.


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> I've asked if anyone was against allowing other Phanteks cases in and nobody said no... so.... YES! We are not prejudice against other cases.
> When they come out we will be a mufti-case club. All Phanteks ethnicities are welcome!.


Great then i will be joining this club.
If the Luxe ever comes out that is


----------



## chrisnyc75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> Great then i will be joining this club.
> If the Luxe ever comes out that is


Waiting on Phanteks' delayed release is the price of admission to the club. We all did it.


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chrisnyc75*
> 
> Waiting on Phanteks' delayed release is the price of admission to the club. We all did it.


Was the Primo late as well?


----------



## chrisnyc75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> Was the Primo late as well?


Yes, by several months. The good news is Phanteks doesn't deliver a half-baked product with production issues to market. They're not putting it out there until it's perfect (or as close to it as they can get)


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chrisnyc75*
> 
> Yes, by several months. The good news is Phanteks doesn't deliver a half-baked product with production issues to market. They're not putting it out there until it's perfect (or as close to it as they can get)


Well thats nice to hear but i cant wait around forever


----------



## doyll

Phanteks also is honest about release date. When they realize they can't meet the day projected they give a new date. Would be better if the got it out on time, but they don't keep saying it's "on it's way" like some do.

I've noticed this last 8-12 months release dates and stock in stores has been more hit & miss than it was before. Mostly on products made in China. Have to wonder if there is a problem getting things made and delivered to companies on time.


----------



## Leeford

I have been checking Phanteks site daily checking for the Primo Special Editions to be posted for pre-order. Poking around their other products, I was surprised at how many "Sold Out" products they have and how long they have been sold out. So obviously their weak link is with the manufacturer/Shipping. Made me wonder how many people like myself are sitting there waiting to give them money. Or worse, how many people would have gave them money but decided to buy something else in its place.


----------



## rpjkw11

I've noticed, over the last year or so other companies having manufacturing/supply problems. With competition so keen, I guess the name of the game is to get a new product noticed and talked about thereby creating a demand while hoping production catches up soon enough so as not to leave the company with a black eye. This time I was careful not to get very excited about the white EP until I got mymitts on it. Same with the Luxe, though it's much harder as the Luxe appears to be and even better case, allowing, that is, extra value to the smaller size. My wife wants the Luxe for her rig, so the wishing, hoping, and waiting game begins anew. I expect, like the EP, it will be worth it in the end.


----------



## chrisnyc75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rpjkw11*
> 
> I expect, like the EP, it will be worth it in the end.


Yeah, I had to wait, I think, 3 months? I was basically ready to build in June, but didn't get my hands on the EP until mid-September. At the time, it drove me nuts -- checking the Phanteks site & this thread every day, etc. In retrospect, though, I'm really glad I waited. Those 3 months seem inconsequential now, compared to having a case that I know that will grow with me for years & builds to come.


----------



## shilka

I dont mind waiting just not forever


----------



## ocCuS

the guys from hardware canucks posted a photo on their instagram, which shows the enthoo luxe. So it seems it will be hopefully available soon...

__
http://instagr.am/p/niwQHFxoWd%2F/

(and for some reason they broke it^^

__
http://instagr.am/p/ni2uArxoSb%2F/
 )


----------



## liberato87

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ocCuS*
> 
> the guys from hardware canucks posted a photo on their instagram, which shows the enthoo luxe. So it seems it will be hopefully available soon...
> 
> __
> http://instagr.am/p/niwQHFxoWd%2F/
> 
> (and for some reason they broke it^^
> 
> __
> http://instagr.am/p/ni2uArxoSb%2F/
> )


I think it is the Enthoo Pro non the Luxe


----------



## doyll

What /\ /\ said. Looks like Enthoo Pro to me too.


----------



## Torus15

Looks too small, my 270 Photon D5 combo won't be going in there, even having issues getting it in the Primo.


----------



## Astote-ap

Anyone have recommendations for rads? I'd love to put a monsta with push pull in the bottom and probably using a rampage black edition mobo (mostly for colors/waterblock availability). and another rad up top.


----------



## Griffenxz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Astote-ap*
> 
> Anyone have recommendations for rads? I'd love to put a monsta with push pull in the bottom and probably using a rampage black edition mobo (mostly for colors/waterblock availability). and another rad up top.


Everyone seems to recommend on using 420 UT 60 on top and so you can utilize the stock fans so less money needed on fans . Don't see a problem in using a a monsta in in the bottom with push pull and you can still have a 240 rad on the side . That would be the way I would go but I already have a 480 UT 60 on hand so I'll be placing that on top , with a 480 monsta with push pull and a 240 XT 45 on the side not sure if a 240 UT 60 would fit on the side .


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Griffenxz*
> 
> *Everyone seems to recommend on using 420 UT 60 on top* and so you can utilize the stock fans so less money needed on fans . Don't see a problem in using a a monsta in in the bottom with push pull and you can still have a 240 rad on the side . That would be the way I would go but I already have a 480 UT 60 on hand so I'll be placing that on top , with a 480 monsta with push pull and a 240 XT 45 on the side not sure if a 240 UT 60 would fit on the side .


I haven't noticed 'everyone' recommending that. If you do go that route just be aware that there is 70mm of clearance from the top of the mobo to the top of the case, and there is 43mm of offset for a 140mm-series rad (280, 420) and 53mm of offset for a 120mm-series rad (240, 360, 480).

Soooo, a 60mm thick rad will fit up top with just one set of fans on top of it, but if you run fans in push-pull the bottom set of fans will have to overhang the top of the mobo by ~15mm, so everything along the top of the mobo (heatsinks, ram, plugs/connectors/wires, etc) will need to be shorter than the offset clearances.

A 45mm thick rad with fans in push-pull will fit up top pretty much perfect without any overhang, but a thicker rad may pose some clearance issues, especially with a 140mm-series rad. It will depend on what mobo and how tall everything is along the top of it.

Astote-ap mentioned maybe getting a "_rampage black edition mobo (mostly for colors/waterblock availability)_". I have a RIVBE with XSPC's RIVBE waterblock set in my Enthoo Primo, and no way would an overhanging rad clear the fittings/tubing on the top waterblock. The thickest rad I can have up top in push-pull is 45mm. I've got a 480 XT45 up there in push-pull and it fits perfect.


----------



## Roxycon

I too have a 480 xt45 on top, but I'm using three of the original 140mm casefans with it







if you really want a third big rad you could mount a 240 or 360 the way I did


----------



## owcraftsman

I use the UT60 420 and can definitely see where it could be trouble with certain mother boards especially with full board water blocks but I have no issues with mine on a MSI G45 gaming mobo. Bought 3 extra 140mm Phanteks fans to cover push/pull and couldn't be happier. Phanteks will also ship you the rubber grommets to cover the supplied fans that lack them if you request them.


----------



## liberato87

http://www.phanteks.com/Enthoo-Pro.html


----------



## doyll

Nice find liberato87









First written review I've seen
http://www.bit-tech.net/hardware/cases/2014/05/06/phanteks-enthoo-pro-review/1

Window verson £89.99 (inc VAT)

But Antony completely missed the PWM fan hub.







Quote:


> This isn't a case for anyone with sensitive ears, though, and there's definitely a case for Phanteks introducing a fan controller with future versions. It's not deafeningly loud but most of Corsair's recent cases in the similar price bracket are much quieter.


----------



## ocCuS

And here is the teased video from hardware canucks about the enthoo pro


----------



## rpjkw11

Very nice! This case looks great with lots of potential. The Pro is about one inch shorter than NZXT's new Phantom P240, bu I much prefer the Pro's styling and design.

One detail that really caught my attention is the use of screws rather than rivets thus making this a builders dream; especially for modders.

I've been looking forward to the Enthoo Luxe as well, just out of curiosity. It appears the Pro may be somewhat smaller, plus a lower price.

My main question is: Will the Pro come in white at a later date like the Primo? I've owned the black one since November, but the white one was so irresistible I just bought it. I believe the Luxe does/will come in white, too.

I love the fact that Phanteks is producing so many innovative cases. The innovative interiors matched with an class exterior design makes it difficult, at least for me, to decide which to buy.


----------



## shilka

Looked at the Pro but would rather have the Luxe


----------



## rpjkw11

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> Looked at the Pro but would rather have the Luxe


I agree, especially the case lighting!


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rpjkw11*
> 
> I agree, especially the case lighting!


Have an NZXT 2 meter LED cable in my case now thank god i dont have to reuse it as its a major pain in the ... to install it


----------



## Astote-ap

I just stumbled upon the asus z97 boards.... I think the Deluxe (and lower tier versions) is just gorgeous. Just the aesthetics i want for this case.


----------



## Roxycon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Astote-ap*
> 
> I just stumbled upon the asus z97 boards.... I think the Deluxe (and lower tier versions) is just gorgeous. Just the aesthetics i want for this case.


Im drooling over the EVGA z97 classi to replace my current in the enthoo


----------



## cgull

one of the gigabyte black editions has waterblock heatsink and 2x16 pcie slots


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brian-phanteks*
> 
> @roxycon
> The last update I heard for Primo accessories is that they will be shipping sometime next month. (Dont shoot the messenger)
> 
> @torus15 and @sparkron
> I havent heard anything about LED strips being available for sale separately, but I will send the request along.


Factory's been responsible for lotta bullet holes so far I guess







..... good news ..... looking forward to finishing build.

Methinks a "mod kit" that would allow ya to mount the multi color option like on the Luxe would be well rec'd. Add the fans in tri color and wow.... "da kids wud love it"









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spriggan43*
> 
> Hi,
> Just attempting to see if anyone has resolved the cracking noise from the window and the plastic top and front? I have had the case 4 months now and summer is now over so the noises from the case are dying down.


Well having it sitting on the floor next to my desk had helped







.... but it's going to be dependent upon temp changes .... eventually the rub points will shave themselves down a bit .... most users report this diminishing over time.

To liberato87

Is that Mathems pastel red as coolant ? Keep an eye on it

This was my preparation .....

1. Hot water ..... let sit 30 minutes .... do the "shakie shakie" thing ..... rinse and repeat 3 times.

2. Connected tube to faucet, alternated hot and cold water and pulsed it to shake things loose for 30 minutes.

3. Let soak for cupla hours in baking soda solution

4. Two DW rinses

5. Let soak for cupla hours in vinegar . water solution

6. Two DW rinses

7. Assembled loop, filled with DW and ran for 30 minutes (pump only, puter not on)

6. Drained and refilled with DW, ran for a week.

7. Rinsed with DW.

8. Mixed 2 bottles of Red Pastel w/ 1.4 L DW and filled loop

9. Add 2 15 ml of red Mayems dye a month later.

Now after 6 months of usage the coolant has gotten very dark.....Mayems attributes this to inadequate cleaning though the steps taken exceed those on the bottle. They have a new cleaning kit that is supposed to prevent this from happening but I couldn't find it on FCPU or PPCs.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bigbangSG*
> 
> are they going to make a reservoir bracket rev 2? me also like a clear window for my enthoo primo


This was reportedly "in the works" back in November but as you can see, phanteks has been quite bizee with the white, the Luxe, the Pro and accessories and perhsps this one hasn't gotten off the back burner as yet.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chrisnyc75*
> 
> Yeah, I had to wait, I think, 3 months? I was basically ready to build in June, but didn't get my hands on the EP until mid-September. At the time, it drove me nuts -- checking the Phanteks site & this thread every day, etc. In retrospect, though, I'm really glad I waited. Those 3 months seem inconsequential now, compared to having a case that I know that will grow with me for years & builds to come.


Newegg started taking order I think on October 22nd ....then pulled it so they could let those who pre-ordered from phanteks ship....I think mine arrived on the 27th ....some peeps who pre-ordered from Phantels got it day before.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Astote-ap*
> 
> Anyone have recommendations for rads? I'd love to put a monsta with push pull in the bottom and probably using a rampage black edition mobo (mostly for colors/waterblock availability). and another rad up top.


What ya gonna cool with it ?

The "easy fit" is a UT60-280 on the bottom and an XT45-420 on top. This is more than enough to cool twin 780 / 780 Tis and a Haswell but w/ LGA 2011 ya may want a bit more. I say "easy" cause the 280 on the bottom fits on the little platform and isn't so high as to block the cable grommet. I almost went for the UT60 on top but after looking at Jesse's build and taking a few measurements, the UT60 on top the pull fans wuda blocked the Diagnostic LCD and a few other things meaning things like accessing the EPX cable required removing fans. The 420 works well as it allows the top ports to be used for fill and bleed ports and allows a fan controller to be placed in the top 5.25" bay. At bearable fan speeds (noise wise), you get very little performance improvement from thicker rads as you can see on martins site.

http://martinsliquidlab.org/2012/05/01/alphacool-nexxxos-st30-360-radiator/4/

With the Phanteks 1200 rpm fans, on a 360 rad .... the 60mm gets ya just 4 more watts than the 45mm .... the 45mm just 2 more watts than the 30mm. But many folks do like the beefy look of the thicker rads ..... a 86mm on bottom and 60mm on top is certainly doable. If ya don't need more than three HD bays.... a 480 on bottom is also an easy addition.

See the comments from mayhems above.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Astote-ap*
> 
> I just stumbled upon the asus z97 boards.... I think the Deluxe (and lower tier versions) is just gorgeous. Just the aesthetics i want for this case.


I saw the MSIs first and then went looking for the Asus.... Newegg only has the Gene and the Hero in the RoG line .... The price puts the Hero in a worse light, while it is a fine board, if MSI maintains the same feature set and Mil Spec components, I can't see picking the Hero over the GD65 for $50 more.

The WS would look real perty w/a Gold EK Block


----------



## Vengeance0058

How does one install the 120mm fans on the HDD cages?


----------



## skywalker311

I don't think you can on the cage itself. But I might be wrong. I do know that it comes with a side radiator bracket. You could use that to install a 120mm fan. it has room for two 120mm fans.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

The sides of the HDD cages have threaded holes for 120mm fans. (edit: There's even 8 screws in the accessories box that comes with the case for screwing the fans in there)

I believe that's how Roxycon mounted the extra vertical 360 rad, to the sides of the hdd cage ...
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roxycon*
> 
> update
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> tset fitting, mounting the 360 rad and line up the things from bottom rad to the watercooling business compartment, haha, one of the greatest things about this case is that you could hide almost everything except the motherboard and the components that physically goes on it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> now you should get an idea of what i mentioned about out of the ordinary in the first post
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> but don't stress out, i did my testing and it was awesome considering only one 360 in the loop


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roxycon*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> well got around to change *almost* all my fans (since the 360 and limited to 6 fans on the top rad) if i knew i was receiving the order the day after filling and bleeding i would have waited.. but it wasnt impossible to change them
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> By now im pretty much done.. gonna do a CPU backplate mod sometime in the future and maybe lap it..
> 
> I dont know what i should do with my ram though, considering demounting the heatsinks and paint the modules black or demount and buy myself active RAM fans since i really like that look
> And ill definitely gonna order a can of black plastidip to cover the ek badges and mounting
> 
> anyways, some semi final pictures
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## Roxycon

I did it a tad more ghetto, used double sided tape and some left over tubing


----------



## spqmax

I just ordered a white primo







I'd love to use the white ek res as well. From what I understand I'd have to remove the covering plate bracket cover to fit 2 Ti Classifieds (rampage black mobo)? is there any way to still mount the res? maybe with the ek uni holder thingies?


----------



## Astote-ap

I'm wondering if I should do a build log once i get all my parts. I have some mod ideas, but it's nothing extravagant.


----------



## Roxycon

Did we find out the OEM for the clips in front and on the top filter?


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roxycon*
> 
> Did we find out the OEM for the clips in front and on the top filter?


I believe they're made by a company called Sagatsune, but you'll have to buy them from a retailer, not direct from them.

In the US I've found them referred to as a *non-magnetic mini touch latch* and in the UK they can be found by searching for a '*push click bin latch*.

FWIW, in the US I'd avoid getting them from HomeClick. They messed up mine and another person here's orders pretty bad. Ordered packs of 4 and got one latch instead. They did eventually make good on them in my case at least, but it took a while and a hassle.


----------



## Roxycon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> I believe they're made by a company called Sagatsune, but you'll have to buy them from a retailer, not direct from them.
> 
> In the US I've found them referred to as a *non-magnetic mini touch latch* and in the UK they can be found by searching for a '*push click bin latch*.
> 
> FWIW, in the US I'd avoid getting them from HomeClick. They messed up mine and another person here's orders pretty bad. Ordered packs of 4 and got one latch instead. They did eventually make good on them in my case at least, but it took a while and a hassle.


my god they were expensive o.o i was kinda hoping to buy lots of 40 or something







guess im sending phanteks an email instead


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roxycon*
> 
> my god they were expensive o.o i was kinda hoping to buy lots of 40 or something
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> guess im sending phanteks an email instead


I paid right at $12 USD for 5 of the latches and that included shipping from the UK to the US. I didn't think that was all that bad. Seemed a whole lot better option to me than the 10 days of at least as many back and forth emails with Phanteks support before they finally agreed to ship me the first two broken ones.

I also ordered 4 of them from Homeclick here in the US for almost twice as much at the same time (we weren't positive at the time whether any of them were the correct size latch - turned out they both were), and the order off uk.ebay arrived here first and was complete. The order from Homeclick didn't show up for a week after that, and only included one latch instead of 4. Had to jump through hoops and wait a couple more weeks to get the other 3.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Astote-ap*
> 
> I just stumbled upon the asus z97 boards.... I think the Deluxe (and lower tier versions) is just gorgeous. Just the aesthetics i want for this case.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vengeance0058*
> 
> How does one install the 120mm fans on the HDD cages?


Use the predrilled mounting holes ... ones on little mounds



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spqmax*
> 
> I just ordered a white primo
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'd love to use the white ek res as well. From what I understand I'd have to remove the covering plate bracket cover to fit 2 Ti Classifieds (rampage black mobo)? is there any way to still mount the res? maybe with the ek uni holder thingies?


Build List:

EK-MultiOption RES X3 250 - Liquid Cooling Reservoir - White Acetal (6 Total Ports) w/ (2) EK Extender Fittings
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/21672/ex-res-677/EK-MultiOption_RES_X3_250_-_Liquid_Cooling_Reservoir_-_White_Acetal_6_Total_Ports.html?tl=g57c615s1940#blank

EK X3 Reservoir Multiport Replacement Top - White (EK-RES X3 - Multiport TOP WHITE)
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/18485/ex-res-481/EK_X3_Reservoir_Multiport_Replacement_Top_-_White_EK-RES_X3_-_Multiport_TOP_WHITE.html?id=4NiLmkLB&mv_pc=1254

Internal Tube 12/16 - 140mm (EK-RES-X3-TUBE-140
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_1165_1162&products_id=36312

EK G1/4 Thread Fitting Extender - Nickel - 8mm (Fitting Extender G1/4 (Ni))
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/18760/scr-701/EK_G14_Thread_Fitting_Extender_-_Nickel_-_8mm_Fitting_Extender_G14_Ni.html?id=4NiLmkLB&mv_pc=1256

I was gonna do the Xt45-420 and UT6-280 rads in white also..... but 1) they don't come in white in the size I used 2) the price premium is a bit much and 3) I changed my mind having the black case .... with a white case I'd paint myself.

I don't see the Classified's fitting...... I made this "mockup" back when we didn't know what would fit (paint can was stand-in for the EK Res.



But it wasn't till that 1st Asus DCII 780 arrived that I was able to confirm that the lower of the two cards will actually fit with the plastic cover removed. The DCIIs are 10.5" long and there's 0.1" clearance between the EK Res and the cards. In addition if the lower card's water block extends full length (acrylic EK one with logo circles does, one without circles doesn't), it will hit the slanted part of the bracket. The Classy is 11".0" long which is about 0.4" too big to miss the Res and the bracket (for 2nd card). Note that my cards are plugged into slots 2 & 5 (hanging a bit into 3 & 6)

I think with the RIVBE, you can uses slots 1 and 4 but they appear to be a bit lower on that 7 slot spacing board than on my 8 slot M6F so don't see the Classy fitting here.....at least not with the res bracket or a "velcro mod"

Options would include the excellently reviewed MSI (10.5") which uses the standard reference blocks and backplate
http://www.techpowerup.com/reviews/MSI/GTX_780_Ti_Gaming/29.html
http://www.guru3d.com/articles_pages/msi_geforce_gtx_780_ti_gaming_review,2.html
EK-FC780 GTX Ti Backplate - Black [3831109868331]
EK-FC780 GTX Ti [3831109868614]

The Asus model is 11.3" long but so was the 780 .... the PCB on the 780 was 10.5" tho and the other 0.8 came from the air cooler overhang so mit disappears with water block on .... the 780 it looks like uses the same PCB and cooler.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Wow....no posts since my lunchtime visit ..... Don't wanna lose it in the pile of responses above so making separate post.

Has anyone looked at the rejected air that comes back up through the top with the phanteks fans (prolly same on bottom) . The fans frame is wider at the corners and middle with a space in between and with a 420 sitting in a space that fits I 480 I see / feel:

-Significant amount of air coming back up at the edges of the fan array between the edge of fan bay and edge of fans.
-Significant amount of air coming back up between fans .... the way the fan frames are indented, there like a 1/2 wide hole between the corners and the middle.

At normal speeds nothing comes back, but when I run a bennie or use RPM mode and set the fans to 1200 it;s quite a bit.

I was tempted to "black tape" it but I'm much too anal for that







. Was gonna make a template in AutoCAD so I can cut it out of some type of thin material....preferably not metal.

1. Has anyone else noticed this ?
2. Has anyone noticed it and said "why bother" ?
3. If I make the template, would anyone want it uploaded ?
4. Any suggestions on materials and sources ?

Would not need to be stiff.... was even thinking of using a rubber sheet material to provide sound deadening, some extra sealing capability where it runs over pads and flexibility ... something like my ModMat.


----------



## Astote-ap

I'm not sure why it matters. The point of positive pressure is so air goes out of any leaks. However you could use some kind of veneer (copper comes to mind) to cover it up..


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> W
> I was tempted to "black tape" it but I'm much too anal for that
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Was gonna make a template in AutoCAD so I can cut it out of some type of thin material....preferably not metal.
> 1. Has anyone else noticed this ?
> 2. Has anyone noticed it and said "why bother" ?
> 3. If I make the template, would anyone want it uploaded ?
> 4. Any suggestions on materials and sources ?
> Would not need to be stiff.... was even thinking of using a rubber sheet material to provide sound deadening, some extra sealing capability where it runs over pads and flexibility ... something like my ModMat.


I've noticed it but not bothered to do anything. System temps are quite low as it is.

The top and front grill mesh is pattern R1.5 T3.0 with only 22.68% open area. I'm thinking of replacing the grill mesh. Have found Hex mesh H4.5 T5 with 81% open area (3.6 times more than stock). Think it would be perfect, but comes in 1x2meter sheet and costs £99.99. Can also get with 2.5mm holes H2T2.5 with 64% open (2.8 times more than stock) area same sheet size and price.
picture here
http://www.overclock.net/t/1418637/official-phanteks-enthoo-primo-owners-club/3500_20#post_22048413

Could use construction paper from hobby shop / crafts store and cut with knife.
Sign vinyl for sign maker's shop. Peel the backing to stick it on or not. They could make it too with your pattern if it's the right file type.
Or make a tube that fits around fan and goes to the grill.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Astote-ap*
> 
> I'm not sure why it matters. The point of positive pressure is so air goes out of any leaks. However you could use some kind of veneer (copper comes to mind) to cover it up..


Problem is this is not air leaking in / out of case, it's air cycling inside of case.


----------



## GOLDDUBBY

love this case! not too big, it's just big enough!


----------



## doyll

Bill over on TheModZoo just reviewed the Enthoo Pro. Very impressive!


----------



## GOLDDUBBY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Bill over on TheModZoo just reviewed the Enthoo Pro. Very impressive!


Nope.

main cons are:

1. Bad placement of the power button

2. Top part doesn't allow for easy mounting a big radiator / fans on top. It all has to go on the inside of the chassi. (This is REALLY bad, because the power button is placed on it)

3. It now has a horizontally mounted psu slot instead of the vertically mounted which allow for a 480 rad in the bottom, or dual psu's, like in the enthoo primo

4. The front panel is not divided like on the primo

5. Doesn't have covered front

6. Feels small, more like a mid tower case, rather than a full tower like the primo.

Pros: It's cheap. ¯\_(ツ)_/¯


----------



## Hotluch

Hi, I recently switched from a cm storm trooper to the Enthoo Primo White. I need some input on radiators. I really like the xspc ax 480 white radiator's looks. I want to know if i should go with 140mm fan radiators or 120mm radiators? I currently have 1 240mm HW Sr1 and 6 corsair sp 120mm fans. Any input would be grateful, I'm kinda at a loss at the moment .

[Link] The white would look really nice, but I think the 120mm width would look small.

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/21112/ex-rad-640/XSPC_AX480_Quad_120mm_Radiator_w_Aluminum_Enclosure_-_White.html?tl=g30c95s570

I also like the looks of 140mm radiators like hardware labs sr1 480. The only thing is its not white. I cant find nice 140mm white rads.

[link]

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/10465/ex-rad-182/Black_Ice_SR1_Low_Air_Flow_Optimized_-_420_Radiator_-_Black.html?tl=g30c95s931


----------



## Griffenxz

check this one out


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GOLDDUBBY*
> 
> Nope.
> main cons are:
> 1. Bad placement of the power button
> 2. Top part doesn't allow for easy mounting a big radiator / fans on top. It all has to go on the inside of the chassi. (This isREALLY bad, because the power button is placed on it)
> 3. It now has a horizontally mounted psu slot instead of the vertically mounted which allow for a 480 rad in the bottom, or dual psu's, like in the enthoo primo
> 4. The front panel is not divided like on the primo
> 5. Doesn't have covered front
> 6. Feels small, more like a mid tower case, rather than a full tower like the primo.
> 
> Pros: It's cheap. ¯\_(ツ)_/¯


Phanteks already makes what you describe as cons. It's the Enthoo Primo and it's only $250 MSRP.









Enthoo Pro is for people who what something smaller.

I think what you consider 'cons' are really just differences.

1. Power button is where many of us find convenient.
2. Designed to be shorter, so of course Enthoo Pro does not have as much room for radiators.
3. Again, done to decrease case size.
4. It is not a Primo, it's an Enthoo Pro.
5. Again, it's not a Primo.
6. I agree, Enthoo Pro is a mid-tower case. Cases less than 560mm tall are mid-tower.

Enthoo Primo is 250mm x 650mm x 600mm (WxHxD)
Enthoo Pro size 235mm x 535mm x 550mm
Size difference is 15mm x 115mm x . 50mm


----------



## tomho147

i love this case


----------



## GOLDDUBBY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Phanteks already makes what you describe as cons. It's the Enthoo Primo and it's only $250 MSRP.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Enthoo Pro is for people who what something smaller.
> 
> I think what you consider 'cons' are really just differences.
> 
> 1. Power button is where many of us find convenient.
> 2. Designed to be shorter, so of course Enthoo Pro does not have as much room for radiators.
> 3. Again, done to decrease case size.
> 4. It is not a Primo, it's an Enthoo Pro.
> 5. Again, it's not a Primo.
> 6. I agree, Enthoo Pro is a mid-tower case. Cases less than 560mm tall are mid-tower.
> 
> Enthoo Primo is 250mm x 650mm x 600mm (WxHxD)
> Enthoo Pro size 235mm x 535mm x 550mm
> Size difference is 15mm x 115mm x . 50mm


Yep, you're right!

About the cons, then yes and no. - The power button could still be placed on top of the case, but separate from from the cover. That way the cover could be removed with the pwr-button intact in position.
If the dust cover was a clip on type, then it could be removed opening up for a top-mounted rad or fans.

Minor design flaws that would make it a even better case that users would have more functionality of. I find the same minor, but super annoying fails in design with the primo.

For instance the side-plate thing in the primo. Had it been divided at the optical drive cages then it would be possible to open up the bottom in full but maintaining full functionality at the same time, or at least if it had been 3 mm further out (there's room to move it 20mm) but only a measly 3mm and the EK XTX radiators would fit 360 and even 480 ..

The reservoir holder plate doesn't allow normal high end graphics card size .. and lets be honest, if you buy a primo you most likely will have a high end graphics card.

Sure it all can be worked around, for me it was getting the dremel and make a cut for the graphics cards to allow the cards AND a reservoir in the case.

I just think the design-team could have thought about this so that I as a user wouldn't have to. I mean it's quite obvious and blatant things.

As they show the bottom space is to be used with a 240 radiator, I'm ok with that .. but why not make it possible by simply adjusting that side-plate to accommodate up to 480. I just don't get it.

I love this case, it's the best one I've own so far and I've had quite a few. But it almost makes me mad when a design team fail on such trivial details that for high-end users becomes soo annoying. I mean, it's stupid, really.

EVERY high-end graphics card is 300mm 'ish now adays. This is simple facts that a computer-case design team should be aware of. Back in 2006 we had issues when the cards started getting bigger, so the following years case designers brag about that they kept this in mind. But not phantek ... they totally miss what has become nothing less then an industry standard!

Then there's that space in the bottom.. I mean omg there IS about 20mm to spare, the side-plate even curves inwards from the optical bay mounts blocking a bigger 480 radiator.. it's stupid, it's annoying, it destroys functionality

Again WE will always find ways to make things work. But things as trivial as these should actually work right out of the box without the need for DREMEL® to adjust what phantek team over looked.

Like BillOwen says "quarter of an inch" ... this seems to be the over all with phantek, they overlook these slight tiny design issues that would open up for *total functionality*


----------



## GOLDDUBBY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tomho147*
> 
> i love this case


*TEMPS AT LOAD??*


----------



## tomho147

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GOLDDUBBY*
> 
> *TEMPS AT LOAD??*


about 75 degree on the GPUs, can still add one more 120rad on the bottom though


----------



## GOLDDUBBY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tomho147*
> 
> about 75 degree on the GPUs, can still add one more 120rad on the bottom though


I REST MY CASE. - no pun intended


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GOLDDUBBY*
> 
> Yep, you're right!
> 
> About the cons, then yes and no. - The power button could still be placed on top of the case, but separate from from the cover. That way the cover could be removed with the pwr-button intact in position.
> If the dust cover was a clip on type, then it could be removed opening up for a top-mounted rad or fans.
> Power button is in cover, but the switch is in the case. I say this because removing top pulls no wires.
> 
> Minor design flaws that would make it a even better case that users would have more functionality of. I find the same minor, but super annoying fails in design with the primo.
> Keep in mind this is an 'economy' case as price reflects. I expect the Enthoo Luxe will be a balance between Pro and Primo.
> 
> For instance the side-plate thing in the primo. Had it been divided at the optical drive cages then it would be possible to open up the bottom in full but maintaining full functionality at the same time, or at least if it had been 3 mm further out (there's room to move it 20mm) but only a measly 3mm and the EK XTX radiators would fit 360 and even 480 ..
> 3mm here, 2-pieces instead of one, better airflow, front vent restricted by cover.. Even the best thought out design will have things to nit-pick.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The reservoir holder plate doesn't allow normal high end graphics card size .. and lets be honest, if you buy a primo you most likely will have a high end graphics card.
> Same answer as last two.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sure it all can be worked around, for me it was getting the dremel and make a cut for the graphics cards to allow the cards AND a reservoir in the case.
> 
> I just think the design-team could have thought about this so that I as a user wouldn't have to. I mean it's quite obvious and blatant things.
> What is 'blatant' to some is a 'non-issue to many.
> 
> As they show the bottom space is to be used with a 240 radiator, I'm ok with that .. but why not make it possible by simply adjusting that side-plate to accommodate up to 480. I just don't get it.
> There are always things that can be better. I've worked in design as well a research and development. The best thought out projects.. even in 3rd and 4th generation, have things that can be improved in 20-20 hindsight..
> 
> I love this case, it's the best one I've own so far and I've had quite a few. But it almost makes me mad when a design team fail on such trivial details that for high-end users becomes soo annoying. I mean, it's stupid, really.
> I do understand what you are saying, but try wearing their shoes. How about you design a case and submit it to us here on forum.. and see how many things 'trivial details' we find?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EVERY high-end graphics card is 300mm 'ish now adays. This is simple facts that a computer-case design team should be aware of. Back in 2006 we had issues when the cards started getting bigger, so the following years case designers brag about that they kept this in mind. But not phantek ... they totally miss what has become nothing less then an industry standard!
> Slow down mate. Phanteks designed Enthoo Primo to accommodate GPUs up to 515mm
> 
> 
> 257mm (reservoir bracket installed)
> 277mm (reservoir bracket installed w/o cover)
> 350mm (no reservoir bracket)
> 390mm (HDD cages in front position)
> 515mm (no HDD cages)
> 
> Then there's that space in the bottom.. I mean omg there IS about 20mm to spare, the side-plate even curves inwards from the optical bay mounts blocking a bigger 480 radiator.. it's stupid, it's annoying, it destroys functionality
> You are making Enthoo Primo sound like it's nothing but junk. Might as well throw it out and build your own.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Again WE will always find ways to make things work. But things as trivial as these should actually work right out of the box without the need for DREMEL® to adjust what phantek team over looked.
> Again, not everything will please everyone.
> 
> Like BillOwen says "quarter of an inch" ... this seems to be the over all with phantek, they overlook these slight tiny design issues that would open up for *total functionality*
> Add that "quarter of an inch" and Bill (as well as the rest of us) will find another "quarter of an inch" somewhere else. Bill also said "280 not a problem, we got to drill some extra mounting holes." before going on to discuss 420 radiator.


You bring up good points. And no doubt Phanteks will address at least some in their next generation of cses.

It's not easy to design a single use case that in 20-20 hindsight we can't find things to improve. It's almost impossible.. no, it is impossible to design a multi-use case that in 20-20 hindsigt we can't find things to improve.


----------



## Pierre3400

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tomho147*
> 
> about 75 degree on the GPUs, can still add one more 120rad on the bottom though


Which GPUs are you running?


----------



## tomho147

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pierre3400*
> 
> Which GPUs are you running?


amd r9 280x


----------



## Pierre3400

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tomho147*
> 
> amd r9 280x


Okay, hows that running? I will be getting my third and final Sapphire 7970 6gb card next week.

What sort of scores does that setup get in 3dmark11?

On a different note, i want to thank Brian from phanteks, for his personal help with support, and getting me a second PWM hub


----------



## doyll

Thank You Brian!
On behalf of all of us here on
[Official] Case PHANTEKS Club; Enthoo Primo & Enthoo Pro lovers & owner's


----------



## Leeford

I pre-ordered a PRO while I wait for the special edition primo's or a next generation primo to come out. I need to build a PC this month to play Star Citizen. This way I can slap something together now for the alpha and beta and slowly piece together a proper water cooled PC and take my time modding a primo.

For the PRO I will just air cool the VGA using the included fans and a H100i as intake for the CPU and see what temps are like before adding any additional fans.


----------



## doyll

FYI

There is now only one case thread started sense our first post on 8/14/13 with more posts than we have.. and that is the 750D started 9/29/13..
There is only one other thread stated in all of 2013 that has more post than we do!








Not bad for a new company's first case release!


----------



## cgull

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> FYI
> 
> There is now only one case thread started sense our first post on 8/14/13 with more posts than we have.. and that is the 750D started 9/29/13..
> There is only one other thread stated in all of 2013 that has more post than we do!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not bad for a new company's first case release!


It's all my fault, have both 750d & primo(white) and no I wont say which is better









the primo is worth every dollar and more. Was able to do exactly what I wanted. 360 white monsta in the bottom, 60 mm 480 in the top ,both in push/pull with no modding at all.
no niggles , it's as perfect as a $265Aud case can be.

pretty bloody good effort for a first time case manufacturer, thank u phantek

haven't updated my sig in a while but my other cases include: Xigmatek -Elysium, Coolermaster- haf xb, storm trooper, 690ii.. I am a hoarder with pc parts


----------



## doyll

FYI

We now have the most posts of any case thread sense our first post on 8/14/12
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cgull*
> 
> It's all my fault, have both 750d & primo(white) and no I wont say which is better
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> the primo is worth every dollar and more. Was able to do exactly what I wanted. 360 white monsta in the bottom, 60 mm 480 in the top ,both in push/pull with no modding at all.
> no niggles , it's as perfect as a $265Aud case can be.
> 
> pretty bloody good effort for a first time case manufacturer, thank u phantek


Not saying is as bad.








You can't make up with a bunch of praise after not saying it's better.








Have a pint, mate.


----------



## cgull

I'll have a schooner instead hehe

Don't make me choose , they are my babies (also have real child, dog, mouse, guinea pig, 2 budgies and fish)








Save my praise for the 750 in that thread.
Will say that both do very well at their price point and what they were designed for. If you want a case that's going to do everything then spend the dosh and get a caselabs.
Personally I love this case, building in it was a breeze, sure fitting the monsta in the bottom was tight but not enough to chip paint, cable management is dirt easy, routing tubes was simple, lots of real estate . All pros and no cons says a lot.


----------



## doyll

Okay, wouldn't want to see any of the children stressed out and feeling deprived.









Several of us have put open castor bases under our EPs. Helps airflow to bottom and eases moving it too.

With 30mm castors on a 10mm base Primo stands 69cm tall (27.165").
 . 

And what it looks like bottom side up


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> FYI
> 
> There is now only one case thread started sense our first post on 8/14/13 with more posts than we have.. and that is the 750D started 9/29/13..
> There is only one other thread stated in all of 2013 that has more post than we do!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not bad for a new company's first case release!


Or it just mean we are a talkative bunch....
















Nice


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Or it just mean we are a talkative bunch....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Nice


Actually, this thread tends to stay a lot more on-topic and filled with useful info than perhaps any other thread anywhere near its size here at OCN that I'm familiar with. That makes it even more impressive now that I think about it.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Actually, this thread tends to stay a lot more on-topic and filled with useful info than perhaps any other thread anywhere near its size here at OCN that I'm familiar with. That makes it even more impressive now that I think about it.


Yep, I agree mate was not implying that. Yet, we can still be a talkative bunch on subject aka. the Phanteks cases.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Actually, this thread tends to stay a lot more on-topic and filled with useful info than perhaps any other thread anywhere near its size here at OCN that I'm familiar with. That makes it even more impressive now that I think about it.


Indeed.
I hadn't thought about it either, but there really isn't much posted that does not pertain to Enthoo cases.
We have a great bunch of very knowledgeable people here helping each other as well as new & wannabe Enthoo Primo, Enthoo Luxe and now Enthoo Pro case owners. .


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Tru that.

On another side-note, and I'm sure I'm probably in the minority here, but I'm not-so-much a fan of the recent addition of the newer Phanteks cases to this thread. It muddies the water, so to speak, and makes the entire thread much less useful that it otherwise would if each case had its own thread imho.

What I mean is, if someone were to come here looking for info on the Luxe or Pro they could wind up wading through hundreds upon hundreds of pages with no mention of it at all. Also, what about later on if/when Phanteks comes out with even more cases? Where to draw the line?

The '[Official] Corsair Obsidian 900D/800D/750D/700D/650D/550D/450D/350D/250D Club' thread is beyond ridiculous in that respect. You can waste your time going through a hundred pages or more and not find a single mention of almost any one of those specific cases. It makes me HATE that thread worse than any other here at OCN. I honestly don't think OCN should even allow such a thread to exist, much less be an 'OFFICIAL' thread.


----------



## Accursed Entity

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Okay, wouldn't want to see any of the children stressed out and feeling deprived.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Several of us have put open castor bases under our EPs. Helps airflow to bottom and eases moving it too.
> With 30mm castors on a 10mm base Primo stands 69cm tall (27.165").
> And what it looks like bottom side up


Hi, where did you buy that base? or did you made it? I'm doing a build this summer, so I'm getting as much info I can about the Primo and Luxe. I'm sorry if that was asked before, I think I'm going to read the whole thread this night to catch up.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Tru that.
> 
> On another side-note, and I'm sure I'm probably in the minority here, but I'm not-so-much a fan of the recent addition of the newer Phanteks cases to this thread. It muddies the water, so to speak, and makes the entire thread much less useful that it otherwise would if each case had its own thread imho.
> 
> What I mean is, if someone were to come here looking for info on the Luxe or Pro they could wind up wading through hundreds upon hundreds of pages with no mention of it at all. Also, what about later on if/when Phanteks comes out with even more cases? Where to draw the line?
> 
> The '[Official] Corsair Obsidian 900D/800D/750D/700D/650D/550D/450D/350D/250D Club' thread is beyond ridiculous in that respect. You can waste your time going through a hundred pages or more and not find a single mention of almost any one of those specific cases. It makes me HATE that thread worse than any other here at OCN. I honestly don't think OCN should even allow such a thread to exist, much less be an 'OFFICIAL' thread.


or click on 'Search This Thread' at top of page and enter 'Primo' or 'Luxe' or 'Pro'..









I posted asking about including other Enthoo cases more than once and got no objections. Sorry.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Accursed Entity*
> 
> Hi, where did you buy that base? or did you made it? I'm doing a build this summer, so I'm getting as much info I can about the Primo and Luxe. I'm sorry if that was asked before, I think I'm going to read the whole thread this night to catch up.


I made it and several others. Where are you located and what is your woodworking skill level?


----------



## Ice009

Is there any Phanteks reps in this thread? I've tried sending two emails through their website, but haven't received a reply to either one. First one was sent early last week.

I was asking what the deal is with their Cases in Australia. Only one store sells them and they are on the other side of Australia. It costs $85 to ship the Enthoo Pro here and over $100 for the Primo. That store is known for high postage prices on bulky items, so it's not because of where they are located, it's just that they seem to have higher postage prices for big items than other stores in the same state. I really want to get one of these Cases, but am not willing to pay those kind of overpriced postage prices on top of the price of the Cases themselves. Defeats the whole purpose of buying either Case.


----------



## jdsb52

Hey, guys does anyone know when the special ed's are coming out, im stuck between the primo and NZXT 820 or 630, but waiting on computex 2014 to see if either company come out with more cases for this year, and is the primo the last case that most will ever need due to its size, expandability and modding potential???


----------



## GOLDDUBBY

Special ed's ?


----------



## Pierre3400

Has anyone out there found LED strips or a-like to replace the blue strips on the front and in the top outter parts of the case?

I have some 500mm white ones, but they are too big to have the plastic to spread the light, and also the LEDS have too much spacing to look good.


----------



## Leeford

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jdsb52*
> 
> Hey, guys does anyone know when the special ed's are coming out, im stuck between the primo and NZXT 820 or 630, but waiting on computex 2014 to see if either company come out with more cases for this year, and is the primo the last case that most will ever need due to its size, expandability and modding potential???


I got a hold of a rep last week via their chat and they said they do not have a solid time but were hoping for next month. To me, that translates to "We have no idea when China will ship our product but would like to tell you it will be soon so you do not look elsewhere for a case solution".


----------



## doyll

Just noticed this comparison review of PH-F140XP, SP & SP_LED and NF-A15 PWM fans tested on NH-U14S. No cooler intake air temp so no way to know the real temp difference, but still impressive.









http://www.overclockersclub.com/reviews/phenteks_f140/3.htm
Quote:


> I don't know what I was expecting exactly. I had never run such a large cooler in my system but I really believed that my water cooler was a little bit better. Phanteks threw that notion out the window. The fans performed way beyond what I thought possible with such a simple air cooler. Not to take anything away from the cooler itself, but the Phanteks fans did essentially outperform the stock fan in every aspect (though only if the rpm, power, and noise are brought into account). Phanteks started off with a pretty great reputation, and they seem to be very determined to keep it. They have successfully taken to redesigning their own fans and tweaking them into better performance. As I have previously stated, the products Phanteks puts out are always top of the line and at this rate they always will be.
> 
> Though the XP did not completely dethrone the faster Noctua, it was very nearly its equal and at lower settings across the board. I genuinely believe that, if the PWM was adjusted, it could match toe-to-toe with the faster fan. This is due to the performance of the SP and the SP_LED. They were undeniably the best cooling fans among there peers and competition. They were quieter and slower but still produced temperatures that were better than both of the PWM base fans. Which makes sense given that the PWM fans are basically responding to temperatures where the SP's are preemptively running at max at all times. Now with that reality brought to light, lets talk about the fact that the NF-A15's low noise running speed and sound production is the same as the Phanteks PH-F140XP's max speed and noise production. Now I am sure that this doesnt sound like a good thing but it is. Because it more accurately depicts the comparison of their designs. The fact that the tests resulted in better temperature for the Phanteks when both fans were running at the same speed shows that its Maelstrom Vortex Booster design not only sounds awesome, it is awesome.
> 
> At first glance I was skeptical about some of the quirks these fans have (like the 4-3pin converter and the mostly irremovable LED cable) but then I saw their price. $17.99 seems high, but is in fact amazingly low for the performance and size, comparing to and trumping fans that can be around 50% more expensive (I really did find a good number for $27). Given the price point for these fans they are absolutely amazing. Add in the 5-year warranty and you can't go wrong. Phanteks is going to continue to succeed if they keep their products great and their prices competitive. Air cooling is not a dead art and is still gaining ground, and if Phanteks has its way, will continue to do so for years to come..


http://www.overclockersclub.com/reviews/phenteks_f140/4.htm


----------



## Leeford

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GOLDDUBBY*
> 
> Special ed's ?


Special Edition Primo Cases = The primo with black on the outside with white, orange, or red interiors. The black is also not brushed. It is a sand blasted-like texture.


----------



## Pierre3400

I have 9x 140mm Phantek fans in my case.

They all performe great.

Between those and my Gentle Typhoon AP-15's the noise level is almost non. For some strange reason, 3 of the fans, dont report any RPM on my Aquaero LT5, but the rest do.

I bought these fans, after I tested the ones that came with the case. Great fans!, best 140mm i have owned, and a great price to follow.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Leeford*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *jdsb52*
> 
> Hey, guys does anyone know when the special ed's are coming out, im stuck between the primo and NZXT 820 or 630, but waiting on computex 2014 to see if either company come out with more cases for this year, and is the primo the last case that most will ever need due to its size, expandability and modding potential???
> 
> 
> 
> I got a hold of a rep last week via their chat and they said they do not have a solid time but were hoping for next month. To me, that translates to "We have no idea when China will ship our product but would like to tell you it will be soon so you do not look elsewhere for a case solution".
Click to expand...

Your translation is rather harsh. Phanteks told you there is no 'solid date' and 'hoping'... that's telling you they don't know. Many companies would string you along by saying "Next month."


----------



## jdsb52

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Leeford*
> 
> I got a hold of a rep last week via their chat and they said they do not have a solid time but were hoping for next month. To me, that translates to "We have no idea when China will ship our product but would like to tell you it will be soon so you do not look elsewhere for a case solution".


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Leeford*
> 
> Special Edition Primo Cases = The primo with black on the outside with white, orange, or red interiors. The black is also not brushed. It is a sand blasted-like texture.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Your translation is rather harsh. Phanteks told you there is no 'solid date' and 'hoping'... that's telling you they don't know. Many companies would string you along by saying "Next month."


Cool and thanks guys for the info, liked the black and red primo, even tho the black and red colour scheme in any case is common now days, im guessing this case is more future proof thans others?


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jdsb52*
> 
> Cool and thanks guys for the info, liked the black and red primo, even tho the black and red colour scheme in any case is common now days, im guessing this case is more future proof thans others?


Enthoo Primo is as versatile as there is.. especially for the price. Read / watch the reviews..
These are a couple of the best.




http://themodzoo.com/forum/index.php?/page/articles.html/_/reviews/cases/phanteks-enthoo-primo-full-tower-review-r67


----------



## jdsb52

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Enthoo Primo is as versatile as there is.. especially for the price. Read / watch the reviews..
> These are a couple of the best.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://themodzoo.com/forum/index.php?/page/articles.html/_/reviews/cases/phanteks-enthoo-primo-full-tower-review-r67


Ahhhh so thats the modzoo sight, tried searching for modzoo in google when I saw bill owens vid, one more thing can the door be removed or switched around?


----------



## Leeford

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Your translation is rather harsh. Phanteks told you there is no 'solid date' and 'hoping'... that's telling you they don't know. Many companies would string you along by saying "Next month."


I do not feel I was being harsh. The only difference between Phanteks telling me they are "hoping for next month" and your reference of other companies say "Next month" is the latter infers possible deception which I never accused Phanteks of. It does not matter how you frame it really. If you do not have a date but suggest a theoretical date, you are being "strung along" whether or not that date is given with any semblance of accuracy, truthfulness, foresight, or intent.
I was not trying to bash them in any way shape or form. I was just giving my interpretation of what "hoping for next month" means.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Astote-ap*
> 
> I'm not sure why it matters. The point of positive pressure is so air goes out of any leaks. However you could use some kind of veneer (copper comes to mind) to cover it up..


Three reasons it matters:

1. The point of air cooling is to get air inside the box; if it's bouncing off something and go right back out an inch from where it came in, it doesn't do any cooling cause it never actually got inside the case.

2. The point of water cooling is to get air thru the radiators, if it's sliding off the radiator surface moving laterally and then back out from right where just came in, then it is not going thru the radiators.

3. Having a cross current running directly opposite the incoming air flow creates extra turbulence and static pressure.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> I've noticed it but not bothered to do anything. System temps are quite low as it is.
> 
> Could use construction paper from hobby shop / crafts store and cut with knife.
> Sign vinyl for sign maker's shop. Peel the backing to stick it on or not. They could make it too with your pattern if it's the right file type.
> Or make a tube that fits around fan and goes to the grill.


Yeah, it's just one of those anal retentive things ..... temps are fine but the fact that it is not "optimized" as I sit where working nags on my brain.

Yes, we talked about the grilles some time back...... I'm still running nekid with no grilles till I decide what to do ..... Following your initial post, I posted some other sources of such materials.... auto body shops is a good place to look besides puter mod sources.
Quote:


> Problem is this is not air leaking in / out of case, it's air cycling inside of case.


Actually, it never quite gets inside the case proper.... it gets into the "attic" but never actually into the house









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Bill over on TheModZoo just reviewed the Enthoo Pro. Very impressive!


Also on BenchmarkReviews

http://benchmarkreviews.com/15792/phanteks-enthoo-pro-tower-case-review/


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hotluch*
> 
> Hi, I recently switched from a cm storm trooper to the Enthoo Primo White. I need some input on radiators. I really like the xspc ax 480 white radiator's looks. I want to know if i should go with 140mm fan radiators or 120mm radiators? I currently have 1 240mm HW Sr1 o and 6 corsair sp 120mm fans. Any input would be grateful, I'm kinda at a loss at the moment .
> 
> The white would look really nice, but I think the 120mm width would look small.
> 
> I also like the looks of 140mm radiators like hardware labs sr1 480. The only thing is its not white. I cant find nice 140mm white rads.


I was planning on white rads but decided against it in the end. Some thoughts when I was leaning in that direction.

1. Alphacool Rads have best performance and they do have them in white tho on;y some models.
2. The cost premium for white was a bit ridiculous.
3. The finish on rads is not very good across all brands and if I was doing white, I'd wanna paint myself.

For twin 780 / 780 Ti's / 290x in SLI / CF, an XT45-420 on top and UT60-280 on bottom will get ya around 12-13C delta T under Furmark @ 850 rpm on the Phanteks fans where they are completely inaudible. Bump that to 1200 rpm and pull the fan grilles / filters just to see what the effect is and delta T is 8.4C with my 780's (25% OC). I'd recommend the 140mm rads because.....

1. Ya get 5 with the case and the fans are great.
2. 36% more cooling are per fan
3. A 420 on top lets you access to the top rad ports for filling / bleeding and even sneak in a fan controller or temp monitor in top slot
4. A 280 on bottom is perfect fit for the platform accessory thinge.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Leeford*
> 
> I do not feel I was being harsh. The only difference between Phanteks telling me they are "hoping for next month" and your reference of other companies say "Next month" is the latter infers possible deception which I never accused Phanteks of. It does not matter how you frame it really. If you do not have a date but suggest a theoretical date, you are being "strung along" whether or not that date is given with any semblance of accuracy, truthfulness, foresight, or intent.
> I was not trying to bash them in any way shape or form. I was just giving my interpretation of what "hoping for next month" means.


Phanteks said "hoping for next month." I assume you "hope" for things without knowing they will occur or even happen. I "hope" for many things that don't happen.

Saying " they do not have a solid time but were hoping for next month" is not "stringing" anyone along.
It is exactly what it says.

"do not have a solid time" = "don't know"
"hoping for next month" = just what it says, so "maybe next month"

That is not the same as "... would like to tell you it will be soon so you do not look elsewhere for a case solution" .

They in no way said or implied it will be soon, only that it might be as soon as next month... and you can add 3 week to whatever date it actually ships from China before it has a chance of being on retailers' shelves.


----------



## jdsb52

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Phanteks said "hoping for next month." I assume you "hope" for things without knowing they will occur or even happen. I "hope" for many things that don't happen.
> 
> Saying " they do not have a solid time but were hoping for next month" is not "stringing" anyone along.
> It is exactly what it says.
> 
> "do not have a solid time" = "don't know"
> "hoping for next month" = just what it says, so "maybe next month"
> 
> That is not the same as "... would like to tell you it will be soon so you do not look elsewhere for a case solution" .
> 
> They in no way said or implied it will be soon, only that it might be as soon as next month... and you can add 3 week to whatever date it actually ships from China before it has a chance of being on retailers' shelves.


Dont wanna butt in here, but I do have a feeling that they will display and show them and the Luxe at Computex and will probably realese them after in like the middle of june, its pretty obivious that they might wanna show them off a bit, specially if they have revised some more case features! Im getting stonger feelings for the primo thanks to this club


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> Yeah, it's just one of those anal retentive things ..... temps are fine but the fact that it is not "optimized" as I sit where working nags on my brain.
> 
> Yes, we talked about the grilles some time back...... I'm still running nekid with no grilles till I decide what to do ..... Following your initial post, I posted some other sources of such materials.... auto body shops is a good place to look besides puter mod sources.


To me optimum grille looks to be
Hexagonal Holes: 4.5mm Hex; Staggered Pitch: 5mm; Pattern: H4.5T6; Open area: 81.00%
Or
Hexagonal Holes: 2mm Hex; Staggered Pitch: 2.5mm; Pattern: H2 T2.5; Open area: 64.00%
Only other size I've seen to big a hole.
Hexagonal Holes: 6mm Hex; Staggered Pitch: 6.7mm; Pattern: H6 T6.7; Open area: 80.20%
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> Also on BenchmarkReviews
> 
> http://benchmarkreviews.com/15792/phanteks-enthoo-pro-tower-case-review/


Thanks!

Found another
http://www.bit-tech.net/hardware/cases/2014/05/06/phanteks-enthoo-pro-review/1


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jdsb52*
> 
> Dont wanna butt in here, but I do have a feeling that they will display and show them and the Luxe at Computex and will probably realese them after in like the middle of june, its pretty obivious that they might wanna show them off a bit, specially if they have revised some more case features! Im getting stonger feelings for the primo thanks to this club


But you did!









I'm pretty sure all these delays are manufacturing delays. Peeps are chomping at the bit for Enthoo Luxe and Enthoo Primo SEs'... not to mention accessories like their / our PWM controlled 3-pin fan hubs. And it isn't just Phanteks having long delays. Noctua's new NH-D15 is being very slow, as is Cryorig R1, True Spirit 140 Power, etc. And that's most likely only the timp of the iceberg.


----------



## jdsb52

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> But you did!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm pretty sure all these delays are manufacturing delays. Peeps are chomping at the bit for Enthoo Luxe and Enthoo Primo SEs'... not to mention accessories like their / our PWM controlled 3-pin fan hubs. And it isn't just Phanteks having long delays. Noctua's new NH-D15 is being very slow, as is Cryorig R1, True Spirit 140 Power, etc. And that's most likely only the timp of the iceberg.


Very true, and swifttech do a similar fan hub you know, and they will get accessories out eventually like NZXT did, really wanna buy now but think it would be smart to wait til after computex, and does anyone here have the white one, if so is the front and top still aluminium?


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GOLDDUBBY*
> 
> EVERY high-end graphics card is 300mm 'ish now adays. This is simple facts that a computer-case design team should be aware of.


Among the high end cards that "fit" in SLI ....

Asus 780 DCII (267mm)
Asus 780 Ti DCII (267mm)

MSI 780 N Gaming Series (267mm)
MSI 780 Ti N Gaming Series

EVGA 780 Classified (ACX) (267mm)

Among those that don't fit are the EVGA 780 Ti Classified (279mm) which misses fitting by just 5mm w/ a 50mm reservoir.

Only card I really wanted to fit was the MSI Lightning (295mm)

Like you, I looked at these "faults" from the perspective of it fitting "my needs" and if ya go back and look, you'll find my post on suggestions for Enthoo 2 with many similar concerns expressed. In any design however, compromises have to be made. For example:

Increasing horsepower means more weight / less mpg
Increasing computing power means more heat / less battery time on laptops

I don't think Phanteks was looking to compete with Case Labs.... The person who's spending on multiple MSI Lightnings / EVGA Classsifieds and LGA 2011 MoBos is likely looking at more and bigger rads than would fit in an Enthoo. I have to agree with Jesse in his assessment that this is great "first timer's" water cooling case. After talking to Phanteks about my suggestions for the Enthoo 2, I understood the compromises that were made and why.

The reality is that EVGA sells many many more SC series than they do Classifieds.....MSI sells many many more Gaming Series cards than they do Lightnings..... after the initial test run, they didn't even bother to release the 780 Ti Lightning. The use of custom PCBs on factory OC'd cards is becoming less rather than more prevalent. Given nVidia's restrictions on the design both physical and legal, it would seem the price / performance equation has rendered the effort less attractive from a "can we get a return on our R & D" point of view.

I hope manufacturer's do continue to make the top end "specialty" cards......but the problem is they can't make money on them. Back in the day, IBM was the premier laptop manufacturer. Every magazine / web site wanted to publish a review of the top dog.... so you would see for example a glowing review of the A20 model which crushed everything else. Problem was, they never made money on that line. What people were willing to pay as a premium might cover the increased parts cost but they hadda eat the extra R & D / testing. So IBM dropped that line, concentrated on the mainstream market where the money was and then their laptop business went in the toilet. While not many people bought that A20, they did walk away from the articles / web reviews with a "IBM makes the best laptops" mindset. While Gigabyte, Asus and MSI all primarily used custom PCBs and beefed up VRMs in their factory OC'd designs (5xx - 7xx) , the EVGA SC series was a straight reference card with a reference VRM. Now the MSI 780 Ti uses a reference PCB and it manages to be the premier factory overclocked card (talking about the consumer factory overclocked, not the "specialty" dual BIOS cards with binned GPUs) out there atm.

Also, for a "customer" PoV, it's not so much that the case is "small" for GFX cards as the cards are big for cases. Look at the Lightning / Classified reviews on newegg and 70% mention "big and /or heavy"

As to why the res bracket is where it is and why it doesn't fit the big cards is because the bracket has multiple uses. In addition to serving to mount a res, it also serves to hide all the cables. Moving it an inch to the right and you expose another inch of cables.

But as discussed way back when with the "Suggestions for Enthoo 2 " post, Phanteks is (well at least was) looking to a Version 2 Res Bracket but given the small number of users out there that would benefit, I can only assume it's taken a back seat to a) making accessories available, Releasing Pro and Luxe, air intake and clip issues. I think the more telling points is.....How many $229 cases are there out there with a res bracket that fits a 11.6" card ? This was their first case outta the gate and I'm sure much thought is currentlly going into"

Some notes from that Enthoo 2 post

1. Make it a 0.5 - 1.0 inch bigger depth wise and let it fit in hi end GFX cards and a 75-80 mm res......An extra 15mm of height for a UT60-420 in P/P or even 20 more for a Monsta..... and maybe 5mm wider to fit bottom 140 mm rads > 280mm

2. Give us a lil more room behind front panel door.

3. Provide SATA backplane for drive cages. I'd suggest outfit one cage with the backplane and one without which would satisfy those who both like and dislike using them. Make it "one screw" removable and have it available as an accessory at launch.

4. Have all accessories available at launch.

5. Provide ability to reverse door hinges

6. Res bracket is a great innovation, but consider that most dual SLI users are selecting MoBos with 3 slot separation between cards to provide that little space for air flow. As it stands, the bracket can not remain in place for 770 / 780 users as 2nd card hits the angled part. A teeny bit more space here would make this work for everyone.

7. Filters:

a) What's the purpose of the 6 screws holding in the front filter ? It's already held in with tabs.

b) Make all the filters replaceable by using magnetic ones and using a small metal strip to the plastic frame to provide something for the magnets to stick to.

c) Getting to the front filter is a bit too much work.... Look at what Antec did going from the 1200 to DF-85. Slide out from bottom would be great

8. Case makes noise..... Eliminate rattling of case window in frame ... (may be a "one of" issue".

9. Some users have reported bit of tightness in the rear (right side) above the PSU area, while far more generous then most, it tempts the user to run some tubing back there and it's just a hair too tight for 1/2".

10. Consider locating the Power Button up on top with the rest making it unlikely to be pressed when moving the case an inch on a desk.

11. There's a message on a tag telling users not to connect the Molex to the PCB "first" until determining if MoBo has capability by checking MoBo for compatibility.

a) There is no compatibility list that I could find on web site.

b) This could kill the fan headers on the MoBo which are typically just 1 or 2 amps. Reword the warning so nobody breaks their MoBo.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Leeford*
> 
> For the PRO I will just air cool the VGA using the included fans and a H100i as intake for the CPU and see what temps are like before adding any additional fans.


Why not get something yu can "open" and use again instead of the closed loop H100i .... and the 100i is so dang loud. For example, these Swiftech kits can be expanded

http://www.frozencpu.com/cat/l3/g/c321/s818/list/p1/b33/Swiftech-Water_Cooling_Kits_-_Brands-Swiftech_Water_Cooling_Kits-Page1.html

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jdsb52*
> 
> Hey, guys does anyone know when the special ed's are coming out, im stuck between the primo and NZXT 820 or 630, but waiting on computex 2014 to see if either company come out with more cases for this year, and is the primo the last case that most will ever need due to its size, expandability and modding potential???


I don't think there will ever be a "last case I ever need"....main reason being with the effort put into making them. It's not worth the time investment in taking it apart as opposed to re-purposing or selling.

Every case is an effort to minimize compromises between competing design goals. To my mind, the Primo makes the fewest compromises of any case I have ever used or read about.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Just noticed this comparison review of PH-F140XP, SP & SP_LED and NF-A15 PWM fans tested on NH-U14S. No cooler intake air temp so no way to know the real temp difference, but still impressive.


Pretty much echoes all the reviews .... for those who haven't seen

http://www.hitechlegion.com/reviews/cooling/heatsinks/37419-phanteks-f140?showall=&start=3
http://www.silentpcreview.com/article1345-page7.html

There's a youtube version of the 1st one .... still can't find that radiator test I once posted about.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jdsb52*
> 
> Dont wanna butt in here, but I do have a feeling that they will display and show them and the Luxe at Computex and will probably realese them after in like the middle of june, its pretty obivious that they might wanna show them off a bit, specially if they have revised some more case features! Im getting stonger feelings for the primo thanks to this club


BTDT







@ CES in January






I'm sure they will be there .... but they have already done the announcement / demo / reveal thing at CES....methinks they expected it to be "out" by Computex

This is the PC source (79%) I had listed
http://mnpctech.com/case-mods-gaming-pc-liquid-modding-custom-computer-mnpctech-overclock-cooling-fan-grills/modders-mesh-honeycomb.html

Other ones were from auto body suppliers

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jdsb52*
> 
> Very true, and swifttech do a similar fan hub you know, and they will get accessories out eventually like NZXT did, really wanna buy now but think it would be smart to wait til after computex, and does anyone here have the white one, if so is the front and top still aluminium?


The Phanteks one is unique in that it is designed to take a PWM signal to control 3 pin fans....The Swiftech is for the more expensive PWM fans which don't quite match up as well performance wise as the non PWM versions. The Phanteks one also will take a variable voltage signal from the MpBo chasis headers and control speed on 3 pin fans (as long as ya don't connect 12v molex)

ModMyToys has been at this a while and has lots of models.

http://www.frozencpu.com/cat/l3/g/c121/s424/list/p1/b214/ModMyToys-Fan_Accessories-Multi_Fan_Ports-Page1.html


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jdsb52*
> 
> Very true, and swifttech do a similar fan hub you know, and they will get accessories out eventually like NZXT did, really wanna buy now but think it would be smart to wait til after computex, and does anyone here have the white one, if so is the front and top still aluminium?


Not really they don't. They each control different fans (3-pin vs 4-pin) in totally different ways.

Swiftech PWM controlled PSU powered hub only controls 4-pin PWM controlled fans by supplying PWM signal to the PWM PCB in each PWM fan to pulse the 12v power coming from PSU.
Phanteks PWM controlled PSU powered hub uses the PWM signal to control the power going to the 3-pin fans. Not sure if this is done by lowering voltage or by pulsing 12v power to fans.
Hope that makes sense.


----------



## setter

Another card that doesnt fit is the gigabyte wf gtx 780 rev 1, the rev 2 model is supposed to be ok though as it has a shorter pcb.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> Pretty much echoes all the reviews .... for those who haven't seen
> 
> http://www.hitechlegion.com/reviews/cooling/heatsinks/37419-phanteks-f140?showall=&start=3
> http://www.silentpcreview.com/article1345-page7.html
> 
> There's a youtube version of the 1st one .... still can't find that radiator test I once posted about.


SilentPC review is F140TS / HP fans

But yeah, everyone give them good marks.


----------



## jdsb52

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Not really they don't. They each control different fans (3-pin vs 4-pin) in totally different ways.
> 
> Swiftech PWM controlled PSU powered hub only controls 4-pin PWM controlled fans by supplying PWM signal to the PWM PCB in each PWM fan to pulse the 12v power coming from PSU.
> Phanteks PWM controlled PSU powered hub uses the PWM signal to control the power going to the 3-pin fans. Not sure if this is done by lowering voltage or by pulsing 12v power to fans.
> Hope that makes sense.


Ahh gotcha, I only saw a mention and small pic in another forum when I was looking at the nzxt cases


----------



## Accursed Entity

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Okay, wouldn't want to see any of the children stressed out and feeling deprived.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Several of us have put *open castor bases* under our EPs. Helps airflow to bottom and eases moving it too.
> And what it looks like bottom side up
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> I made it and several others. Where are you located and what is your woodworking skill level?
Click to expand...

Nice, I live in Puerto Rico, I feel comfortable working with wood. Now you have given me the idea, thanks!


----------



## Leeford

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> Why not get something yu can "open" and use again instead of the closed loop H100i .... and the 100i is so dang loud. For example, these Swiftech kits can be expanded
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/cat/l3/g/c321/s818/list/p1/b33/Swiftech-Water_Cooling_Kits_-_Brands-Swiftech_Water_Cooling_Kits-Page1.html


Great idea, but I had these factors to consider:
The main goal of the PRO build is to have a single high end graphics card machine as budget friendly as possible. ($1500 is what I came up with)
I was planning just air cool the PRO, but the size of the GTS V8 I originally ordered was so ******ed I decided to RMA it and go with another $100 option. Didn't want to spend more than that.
I do not think I want to use any parts I put in the PRO for my Primo build, so being able to expand isn't necessary really.
I am not going to really push this machine very hard, so AIO performance will be plenty.
Once I do have my ultimate Primo Build, I plan to keep the PRO as a backup gaming machine but I may give it to my son who will not want to do maintenance on a WC machine.
And I have never had a AIO cooler. I am curious about them and want to do some experimenting.


----------



## Pierre3400

Figured I would show off how my Enthoo is currently sitting. I am playing changes over the next few months.


----------



## dallas1990

what do you all think? i need better leds for sure and a 2nd 240mm rad to mount on the side and a 360mm rad for the bottom. and i need a drain port then i'll be done xD


----------



## doyll

More nice rigs showing up every day!


----------



## GOLDDUBBY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dallas1990*
> 
> what do you all think? i need better leds for sure and a 2nd 240mm rad to mount on the side and a 360mm rad for the bottom. and i need a drain port then i'll be done xD


I think you should turn that back 140 rad with the ports down, and move that rear fan on it, to the outside! That way thinks will look smother, and you will have a ton of more space there!

like this:



and the cable can be run in under the top of the case like this:


----------



## Essenbe

There are a lot more really nice looking rigs here since my last visit. Well done everyone.


----------



## dallas1990

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GOLDDUBBY*
> 
> I think you should turn that back 140 rad with the ports down, and move that rear fan on it, to the outside! That way thinks will look smother, and you will have a ton of more space there!
> 
> like this:
> 
> 
> 
> and the cable can be run in under the top of the case like this:


i thought about it but im OCD and i didnt want the fans outside of my case lol. i have never been so anal on how things looked till i started building a computer. also its my first custom water cooled loop


----------



## Pierre3400

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dallas1990*
> 
> i thought about it but im OCD and i didnt want the fans outside of my case lol. i have never been so anal on how things looked till i started building a computer. also its my first custom water cooled loop


I agree, if it has to go out side the case, then get a bigger case.

On my 600T is was okay to put it outside, cos you couldnt see it due to the plastics, but on the Primo, i want to keep it all inside. I have a mild case of OCD.


----------



## dallas1990

i think we all do lmao


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dallas1990*
> 
> i thought about it but im OCD and i didnt want the fans outside of my case lol. i have never been so anal on how things looked till i started building a computer. also its my first custom water cooled loop


Isn't 'OCD' just the politically correct way of saying we are anal about our builds? I am definitely severely 'OCD' about mine.. but my spare parts shelves and draws are a mess.









Edit:
Posted before reading the two above posts.








Just goes to how how 'OCD' we all are.


----------



## Pierre3400

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Isn't 'OCD' just the politically correct way of saying we are anal about our builds? I am definitely severely 'OCD' about mine.. but my spare parts shelves and draws are a mess.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Edit:
> Posted before reading the two above posts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just goes to how how 'OCD' we all are.


Yes, i will agree, OCD is anal.

Personally i want things to look symetical if possible. I spend more time on sorting out wires than i spend installing hardware, I can build a pc in 30mins, like most people, but i tend to spend 8 to 10 hours building my own rig, everytime i take it apart, unless me secondary is down, then i can rush it.

I rushed my Primo yesterday after installing a third 7970, which is still running on air. That said, i am currently slowly gearing up to rebuild the whole rig. First step was new GPU blocks, and alreay with only 2 blocks changed from the EK VGA Supremacy to HeatKill blocks, the temps dropped 20c on card, and 10 on the other. I did it for the looks, but happy to find performance.


----------



## doyll

Wow! That's a huge drop in GPU temp.


----------



## GOLDDUBBY

Getting "a bigger case" will set him back around $800 for a caselabs.

Still though, I can't handle the fact that his top rad is missing a fan. Looks really sad that way. I'd suggest you go with only a push configuration on that single rad. It's paper thin anyway and doesn't really need pushpull.


----------



## Pierre3400

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GOLDDUBBY*
> 
> Getting "a bigger case" will set him back around $800 for a caselabs.
> 
> Still though, I can't handle the fact that his top rad is missing a fan. Looks really sad that way. I'd suggest you go with only a push configuration on that single rad. It's paper thin anyway and doesn't really need pushpull.


Haha i was fully confused by that comment until i looked over the pictures.

Heres my thoughts on all of this.

Top rad, push/pull it!

Both of you, rear 140mm, remove them, there is so much damn space in the Enthoo, why do you need that 140mm?

I have push/pull on top, and push/pull in the buttom, and my temps are fine, i leave the 2 front the one rear to be air movers in my case. I really dont understand the need for the 140mm.

And yes, turn it, so you can fit the last fan! Now that i see it, i cant unsee it, and it hurts my eyes.


----------



## GOLDDUBBY

About esthetics, anything to alter the appearance of this dull looking thing is an improvement in my opinion. To be honest I only bought this case because it was $100 cheaper than the cheapest 900d, and I needed the money for other parts.

That being said, I don't regret getting it, and I got a dremel to fix the continuous measurements flaws


----------



## GOLDDUBBY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pierre3400*
> 
> Haha i was fully confused by that comment until i looked over the pictures.
> 
> Heres my thoughts on all of this.
> 
> Top rad, push/pull it!
> 
> Both of you, rear 140mm, remove them, there is so much damn space in the Enthoo, why do you need that 140mm?
> 
> I have push/pull on top, and push/pull in the buttom, and my temps are fine, i leave the 2 front the one rear to be air movers in my case. I really dont understand the need for the 140mm.
> 
> And yes, turn it, so you can fit the last fan! Now that i see it, i cant unsee it, and it hurts my eyes.


You can never have too many fans and rads! xD

Mine's a 120 but the xtx is 64mm thick so it does benefit from a push-pull, plus I dont mind fans on the outside.

In the bottom I have one of the included 140mm fans mounted on the outside aswell, pulling some of the air from the bottom 480 rad out that way.


----------



## Pierre3400

If you want all out, which god forbid anybody needs to.

Theres just so many options.

Bottom Alphacool 480Monsta
Top 420mm 60mm thick or 480mm 60mm thick
Rear out, 140mm Monsta
Front in 140mm Monsta (This is WHILE using the 480Monsta) Going got a triple rad in the bottom opens the option for 280mm in front.
Side 240mm 30mm.

If that isnt enough, i dont know what is.

I have the Alphacool UT60 420 in push/pull and the 480 Monsta, I am cooling CPU, and soon 3x 7970's. No issues. With 2x7970, temps stick around 45 under full load.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pierre3400*
> 
> If you want all out, which god forbid anybody needs to.
> 
> Theres just so many options.
> 
> Bottom Alphacool 480Monsta
> Top 420mm 60mm thick or 480mm 60mm thick
> Rear out, 140mm Monsta
> Front in 140mm Monsta (This is WHILE using the 480Monsta) Going got a triple rad in the bottom opens the option for 280mm in front.
> Side 240mm 30mm.
> 
> If that isnt enough, i dont know what is.
> 
> I have the Alphacool UT60 420 in push/pull and the 480 Monsta, I am cooling CPU, and soon 3x 7970's. No issues. With 2x7970, temps stick around 45 under full load.


If this is about the Enthoo Primo the 280 mm front need a little bit of mod since the default support is for 240 mm rads. Also keep in mind that for some motherboards a 60 mm rad top with 25 mm fans in push-pull will constraint a little bit access to cpu fan power connectors.

But yep, I agree you can pack a lot of rad space in the Primo


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Pierre3400*
> 
> If you want all out, which god forbid anybody needs to.
> 
> Theres just so many options.
> 
> Bottom Alphacool 480Monsta
> Top 420mm 60mm thick or 480mm 60mm thick
> Rear out, 140mm Monsta
> Front in 140mm Monsta (This is WHILE using the 480Monsta) Going got a triple rad in the bottom opens the option for 280mm in front.
> Side 240mm 30mm.
> 
> If that isnt enough, i dont know what is.
> 
> I have the Alphacool UT60 420 in push/pull and the 480 Monsta, I am cooling CPU, and soon 3x 7970's. No issues. With 2x7970, temps stick around 45 under full load.
> 
> 
> 
> If this is about the Enthoo Primo the 280 mm front need a little bit of mod since the default support is for 240 mm rads. Also keep in mind that for some motherboards a 60 mm rad top with 25 mm fans in push-pull will constraint a little bit access to cpu fan power connectors.
> 
> But yep, I agree you can pack a lot of rad space in the Primo
Click to expand...

Yeah, agree with all that. If there's anything along the top of your mobo taller than 53mm for 120-series rads (240, 360, 480) or 43mm tall on 140-series rads (280, 420) then the thickest rad in push-pull that'll fit up top is 45mm, but on that same note, if you don't have anything that tall then you're not just limited to a 45mm or 60mm thick rad. It's possible to fit an 85mm thick monsta in push-pull up top in the Enthoo Primo. Not a lot of people have gone that route, no doubt because it means you'd have to put in your mobo and connect everything first before putting in the rad, and then reverse if you ever need to get to the mobo/ram/cpu plug etc later, but it definitely can be doable.


----------



## GOLDDUBBY

Mine's on top and out of the way of the way of any fanheaders etc


----------



## Vengeance0058

Here's my Enthoo PRO with build inside.


----------



## doyll

Very nice!









What are your thoughts of the Pro?


----------



## Vengeance0058

In short, it's an outstanding product. For a more in depth idea you can read my review here - http://benchmarkreviews.com/15792/phanteks-enthoo-pro-tower-case-review/


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vengeance0058*
> 
> In short, it's an outstanding product. For a more in depth idea you can read my review here - http://benchmarkreviews.com/15792/phanteks-enthoo-pro-tower-case-review/


You have PM about fan hub.


----------



## Accursed Entity

The Enthoo Pro doesn't look bad at all, I'm impressed.


----------



## Ice009

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ice009*
> 
> Is there any Phanteks reps in this thread? I've tried sending two emails through their website, but haven't received a reply to either one. First one was sent early last week.
> 
> I was asking what the deal is with their Cases in Australia. Only one store sells them and they are on the other side of Australia. It costs $85 to ship the Enthoo Pro here and over $100 for the Primo. That store is known for high postage prices on bulky items, so it's not because of where they are located, it's just that they seem to have higher postage prices for big items than other stores in the same state. I really want to get one of these Cases, but am not willing to pay those kind of overpriced postage prices on top of the price of the Cases themselves. Defeats the whole purpose of buying either Case.


Anyone got an opinion or answer on this? I'm not going to bother with Phanteks if they can't bother replying to my email. First one I sent was over a week ago, and they also didn't reply to the second one I sent a few days ago.


----------



## cgull

well you could try getting more than just the case from pccg , that may lessen the sting of the delivery. I got my white primo along with a crapton of stuff-- rads ,res's, fittings, over $2500 worth in 2 boxes and delivery was $100. I'm in nsw , not sure how steep it would have been to WA. There is a sweet spot.

You may also be able to get a local pc store to order one for you, they would have access to the same suppliers as pccg-- I did that when I got my 750d-- naturally you will pay a little more than "retail."

Good luck


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ice009*
> 
> Anyone got an opinion or answer on this? I'm not going to bother with Phanteks if they can't bother replying to my email. First one I sent was over a week ago, and they also didn't reply to the second one I sent a few days ago.


Maybe get someone near PCCG to get one for you and post it to you?


----------



## RnRollie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ice009*
> 
> Anyone got an opinion or answer on this? I'm not going to bother with Phanteks if they can't bother replying to my email. First one I sent was over a week ago, and they also didn't reply to the second one I sent a few days ago.


What about going walkabout and on your return trip pick one up iso paying postage?


----------



## RnRollie

ok, i'm gonna pull the trigger on a (white) Primo









However, i do have a question -and i apologize if its something i've overlooked in this thread- about the depth
It has to do with not all radiators being equal









Since the bottom (and top) takes 140mm fans, the depth is definitely at least 142mm ,
Since i've seen the Primo with a 140.2 MONSTA at the bottom, the depth must be 144mm ,

And i assume that an 140.2 AMS should fit the bottom, but at 146mm it seems as if it might hit the window

So, if someone can tell me the real (measured) depth ... 145mm - 148mm - 150mm - more???

It comes down to me knowing if i can order some "exotic" rads now or if its better to wait till i have the Primo & a ruler in my hands


----------



## rpjkw11

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RnRollie*
> 
> ok, i'm gonna pull the trigger on a (white) Primo
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> However, i do have a question -and i apologize if its something i've overlooked in this thread- about the depth
> It has to do with not all radiators being equal
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since the bottom (and top) takes 140mm fans, the depth is definitely at least 142mm ,
> Since i've seen the Primo with a 140.2 MONSTA at the bottom, the depth must be 144mm ,
> 
> And i assume that an 140.2 AMS should fit the bottom, but at 146mm it seems as if it might hit the window
> 
> So, if someone can tell me the real (measured) depth ... 145mm - 148mm - 150mm - more???
> 
> It comes down to me knowing if i can order some "exotic" rads now or if its better to wait till i have the Primo & a ruler in my hands


The white Primo is, IMHO, a work of art. I was VERY impressed with the black when it arrived, but the white beats it all to heck. White seems to accentuate the overall design. Unfortunately, mine is admired but empty until on or about June 1.

Wait until you see your new "family member"! "Holy S**T"!!!! will not even begin to express your thoughts. Enjoy the new white Primo in good health.


----------



## cgull

going to be tight, measured at 147mm

I went with white 120.3 alphacool monsta.


----------



## Vengeance0058

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rpjkw11*
> 
> The white Primo is, IMHO, a work of art. I was VERY impressed with the black when it arrived, but the white beats it all to heck. White seems to accentuate the overall design. Unfortunately, mine is admired but empty until on or about June 1.
> 
> Wait until you see your new "family member"! "Holy S**T"!!!! will not even begin to express your thoughts. Enjoy the new white Primo in good health.


The white is pretty sexy. But a little out of my budget I like to have for cases. Maybe they'll release a white pro or luxe.


----------



## GOLDDUBBY

With alphacool you can fit a 480 rad in the bottom, up to monsta thickness and beyond.

EK XTX is 3mm wider and will only fit 240mm radiator without modifications.


----------



## DaveLT

Hey doyll, I know you probably still hate me







But I am most likely joining the club soon with the Enthoo Pro.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RnRollie*
> 
> ok, i'm gonna pull the trigger on a (white) Primo
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> However, i do have a question -and i apologize if its something i've overlooked in this thread- about the depth
> It has to do with not all radiators being equal
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since the bottom (and top) takes 140mm fans, the depth is definitely at least 142mm ,
> Since i've seen the Primo with a 140.2 MONSTA at the bottom, the depth must be 144mm ,
> 
> And i assume that an 140.2 AMS should fit the bottom, but at 146mm it seems as if it might hit the window
> 
> So, if someone can tell me the real (measured) depth ... 145mm - 148mm - 150mm - more???
> 
> It comes down to me knowing if i can order some "exotic" rads now or if its better to wait till i have the Primo & a ruler in my hands


140mm-series rads only up to a 280 will fit length-wise in the bottom (a 420 will not), and only then with max width of 145mm. A 144mm wide Alphacool just fits. At 146mm the side panel will make contact with it. You might still get the side on, but at 147mm or more the side panel is probably not going on. Something like a 153mm-wide Hardwarelabs SR1 280 will stick out even past where the outside of the side panel would be.



- - - - - - - -







Oops. edited width measurements. Accidentally wrote 244mm, 246mm, and 247mm instead of 144mm, 146mm, 147mm, etc. lol


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaveLT*
> 
> Hey doyll, I know you probably still hate me
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But I am most likely joining the club soon with the Enthoo Pro.


Can't hate someone with a Entoo Pro.


----------



## DaveLT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Can't hate someone with a Entoo Pro.


I will do some writeup. I'm returning my local distro my switch 810 for the enthoo pro. Many things happened and NZXT's factory is pissing both me and the distributor off.
Do check out my buildlog! http://www.overclock.net/t/1490181/project-log-fall-of-schwarz-the-white-h-lle#post_22279382


----------



## musicbill

This is my first post







, here is my build with this fantastic case, Enthoo Primo.


----------



## GOLDDUBBY

Nice one!


----------



## doyll

Indeed. Very nice.


----------



## jdsb52

how bad is finger printing on the Primo????


----------



## chrisnyc75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jdsb52*
> 
> how bad is finger printing on the Primo????


finger printing? You mean like from handling the case? Not bad, it wipes clean quite easily and thoroughly. Then again, I don't really handle it a lot -- it's REALLY heavy. lol


----------



## jdsb52

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chrisnyc75*
> 
> finger printing? You mean like from handling the case? Not bad, it wipes clean quite easily and thoroughly. Then again, I don't really handle it a lot -- it's REALLY heavy. lol


Cool thanks, was just wondering!


----------



## DaveLT

Great quality case the enthoo pro BUT. Problems have arised.
I can't fit a 45mm thick 360 and a row of fans without running into my VRM heatsink and RAM clips. I'll have to remove the filter and install the fans then .... What sort of full tower can't fit a 45mm thick radiator and 1 set of fans? If it was just a few mm taller I wouldn't have to ruin the aesthetics by having to remove the filter. Gosh man.

The 200mm fan is driving me nuts. I'm not sure whether it's the built in fan controller's being wonky or not but plugged into my fan speed adapters it goes from 600rpm to 800rpm and then back to 600rpm all the time


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaveLT*
> 
> Great quality case the enthoo pro BUT. Problems have arised.
> I can't fit a 45mm thick 360 and a row of fans without running into my VRM heatsink and RAM clips. I'll have to remove the filter and install the fans then .... What sort of full tower can't fit a 45mm thick radiator and 1 set of fans? If it was just a few mm taller I wouldn't have to ruin the aesthetics by having to remove the filter. Gosh man.
> 
> The 200mm fan is driving me nuts. I'm not sure whether it's the built in fan controller's being wonky or not but plugged into my fan speed adapters it goes from 600rpm to 800rpm and then back to 600rpm all the time


Bummer about the radiator.









Assuming the 200mm fan is attached to fan hub, and 4-pin PWM is attached from fan hub to CPU fan header, try adjusting rpm to temp ratio up a few degrees. If you have Gigabyte mobo, ET6 works well. I use it so if you need help holler.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaveLT*
> 
> Great quality case the enthoo pro BUT. Problems have arised.
> I can't fit a 45mm thick 360 and a row of fans without running into my VRM heatsink and RAM clips. I'll have to remove the filter and install the fans then .... What sort of full tower can't fit a 45mm thick radiator and 1 set of fans? If it was just a few mm taller I wouldn't have to ruin the aesthetics by having to remove the filter. Gosh man.
> 
> The 200mm fan is driving me nuts. I'm not sure whether it's the built in fan controller's being wonky or not but plugged into my fan speed adapters it goes from 600rpm to 800rpm and then back to 600rpm all the time


I have actually run into the top rad issue with a few cases that are listed as full towers. Most recently with the NZXT Phantom 530. Personally, I would prefer using offset brackets to raising the roof of the case. But, really, the case mfg should take it into consideration and offset the mounting holes to begin with.


----------



## DaveLT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Bummer about the radiator.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Assuming the 200mm fan is attached to fan hub, and 4-pin PWM is attached from fan hub to CPU fan header, try adjusting rpm to temp ratio up a few degrees. If you have Gigabyte mobo, ET6 works well. I use it so if you need help holler.


Nah. It's absolutely not working for me. I hook it up to 12v, drop it down to 6v and it's still running at 600rpm.








Whatever PWM speeds I set for the PWM output the fan stays at 800rpm on the fan controller
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> I have actually run into the top rad issue with a few cases that are listed as full towers. Most recently with the NZXT Phantom 530. Personally, I would prefer using offset brackets to raising the roof of the case. But, really, the case mfg should take it into consideration and offset the mounting holes to begin with.


What a shame.


----------



## chino1974

Guys has anyone had issues with the front and top led strips in the Enthoo Primo? Is it a known problem that I just missed? I had to email and ask for replacement strips for both. First the top strip started occasionally only lighting up part way. It would happen maybe once or twice a week. Then the front started doing the same thing. Then they both worked fine for about 2 weeks. Now a few days ago both stopped turning on. I checked the plugs the were fine. Checked the outputs from the light switch with a multimeter and they all work. I have 3 Phanteks 140mm led fans and they work fine. Plus another led strip hooked up to it and that also works fine. I even tried running direct power to the leds just to make sure it was definitely them and they are indeed dead. Phanteks approved my request for replacements after going through a day or 2 of confusion over Amazon giving me the wrong invoice papers (Amazon's invoice said I got 2 cases when in fact I only got one) So hopefully this will be it. Just wanna know if I'd be better off replacing them with other brand or type led strips or not. The pwm fan hub was defective when I first got it so they sent me a replacement and that one worked for about 2 weeks then also died. So I gave up on using their fan hubs. (Don't wanna bother them asking for another replacement hub).


----------



## GOLDDUBBY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaveLT*
> 
> Great quality case the enthoo pro BUT. Problems have arised.
> I can't fit a 45mm thick 360 and a row of fans without running into my VRM heatsink and RAM clips. I'll have to remove the filter and install the fans then .... What sort of full tower can't fit a 45mm thick radiator and 1 set of fans? If it was just a few mm taller I wouldn't have to ruin the aesthetics by having to remove the filter. Gosh man.


Mount it on the outside, the aesthetics is boring and ugly anyways.


----------



## DaveLT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GOLDDUBBY*
> 
> Mount it on the outside, the aesthetics is boring and ugly anyways.


I'll do that then. Thanks!









No really I think it looks great and it's classy.


----------



## Gunilla95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chino1974*
> 
> Guys has anyone had issues with the front and top led strips in the Enthoo Primo? Is it a known problem that I just missed? I had to email and ask for replacement strips for both. First the top strip started occasionally only lighting up part way. It would happen maybe once or twice a week. Then the front started doing the same thing. Then they both worked fine for about 2 weeks. Now a few days ago both stopped turning on. I checked the plugs the were fine. Checked the outputs from the light switch with a multimeter and they all work. I have 3 Phanteks 140mm led fans and they work fine. Plus another led strip hooked up to it and that also works fine. I even tried running direct power to the leds just to make sure it was definitely them and they are indeed dead. Phanteks approved my request for replacements after going through a day or 2 of confusion over Amazon giving me the wrong invoice papers (Amazon's invoice said I got 2 cases when in fact I only got one) So hopefully this will be it. Just wanna know if I'd be better off replacing them with other brand or type led strips or not. The pwm fan hub was defective when I first got it so they sent me a replacement and that one worked for about 2 weeks then also died. So I gave up on using their fan hubs. (Don't wanna bother them asking for another replacement hub).


Mine have also falting ledss. i discovered that as i took them out. but i never used them since so i didnt care.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaveLT*
> 
> I'll do that then. Thanks!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> No really I think it looks great and it's classy.


I don't have a Pro. Is there room to mod the case and move the cooler toward the side cover?


----------



## DaveLT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *DaveLT*
> 
> I'll do that then. Thanks!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> No really I think it looks great and it's classy.
> 
> 
> 
> I don't have a Pro. Is there room to mod the case and move the cooler toward the side cover?
Click to expand...

What is this side cover? :x

But anyway turns out the fan controller is wonky.


----------



## doyll

What fan controller.? You mean the PWM controlled fan hub?


----------



## DaveLT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> What fan controller.? You mean the PWM controlled fan hub?


Yup.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaveLT*
> 
> Nah. It's absolutely not working for me. I hook it up to 12v, drop it down to 6v and it's still running at 600rpm.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Whatever PWM speeds I set for the PWM output the fan stays at 800rpm on the fan controller
> .


What are you talking about? Sata hookup is only 12v to fan hub. CPU fan header is only PWM signal, 12v and Gnd to fan hub. No changing voltage that I know of.


----------



## DaveLT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *DaveLT*
> 
> Nah. It's absolutely not working for me. I hook it up to 12v, drop it down to 6v and it's still running at 600rpm.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Whatever PWM speeds I set for the PWM output the fan stays at 800rpm on the fan controller
> .
> 
> 
> 
> What are you talking about? Sata hookup is only 12v to fan hub. CPU fan header is only PWM signal, 12v and Gnd to fan hub. No changing voltage that I know of.
Click to expand...

Huh. I didn't even hook it up to SATA. When I said 6v that's from the mobo to a resistor.

Besides if you hook up to SATA the fans will just run full speed, it can only use the PWM control of the fan controller if you only connected the PWM wire.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaveLT*
> 
> Huh. I didn't even hook it up to SATA. When I said 6v that's from the mobo to a resistor.
> Besides if you hook up to SATA the fans will just run full speed, it can only use the PWM control of the fan controller if you only connected the PWM wire.


You got it wrong mate.

It is a PWM controlled 3-pin fan hub The PWM signal controls the 12v from PSU either by variable voltage or pulsing 12v to control the 3-pin / voltage controlled fans or PWM fans on 3-pin hub headers. If fan hub has no PWM signal and Sata is plugged into PSU the fans will run full speed regardless of what you do. But if you have CPU fan header feeding PWM signal (and a fan hooked to 1st header) the hub will control the speed of all other fans hooked to the hub.. up to 30w.


----------



## Gunilla95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> You got it wrong mate.
> 
> It is a PWM controlled 3-pin fan hub The PWM signal controls the 12v from PSU either by variable voltage or pulsing 12v to control the 3-pin / voltage controlled fans or PWM fans on 3-pin hub headers. If fan hub has no PWM signal and Sata is plugged into PSU the fans will run full speed regardless of what you do. But if you have CPU fan header feeding PWM signal (and a fan hooked to 1st header) the hub will control the speed of all other fans hooked to the hub.. up to 30w.


They have another design of the hub in the Pro its a completely other one if you look at an image.


----------



## Gunilla95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gunilla95*
> 
> They have another design of the hub in the Pro its a completely other one if you look at an image.


From what i have heard DaveLT is right the reviews of the case say the same thing. if you hook up the Sata Power = all fans run at full speed. PWM header = Custom. and pwm+sata = Full speed. Bad design in my opinion!

EDIT: Didnt mean to double post. how do i undo it?


----------



## Pierre3400

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gunilla95*
> 
> They have another design of the hub in the Pro its a completely other one if you look at an image.


Wait what?

Where does the power come from? I need more pictures of this? Its so much smaller?

I need this now!... dont know why but i do..


----------



## Gunilla95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pierre3400*
> 
> Wait what?
> 
> Where does the power come from? I need more pictures of this? Its so much smaller?
> 
> I need this now!... dont know why but i do..


From how i understand it. you can only have 6 fans hooked up on it. and they go all on the pwm header´s power.. wich isnt that good for some motherboards.


----------



## Pierre3400

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gunilla95*
> 
> From how i understand it. you can only have 6 fans hooked up on it. and they go all on the pwm header´s power.. wich isnt that good for some motherboards.


Forget motherboards, im running off Aquaero 5, and thats a max of 3.. Anyhoo, i'll stick to my 2x current hubs from the Primo


----------



## Gunilla95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pierre3400*
> 
> Forget motherboards, im running off Aquaero 5, and thats a max of 3.. Anyhoo, i'll stick to my 2x current hubs from the Primo


Well then there's no problem for you sir. im staying with my single Primo hubb and the 16 fans on it, until it burns up!


----------



## doyll

What I post is based on use, research and knowledge. I do sometimes make mistakes, we all do. But what you are saying is not what the hub is or how it works.

Here is page 30 of the Enthoo Pro manual showing hub and explaining how to hook it up It is basically the same as my Enthoo Primo hub but has a Sata power connector on opposite end of where Molex is on Primo.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gunilla95*
> 
> They have another design of the hub in the Pro its a completely other one if you look at an image.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> [


Please learn about what the Phanteks PWM controlled 3-pin fan is and how it works before posting such things.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gunilla95*
> 
> From what i have heard DaveLT is right the reviews of the case say the same thing. if you hook up the Sata Power = all fans run at full speed. PWM header = Custom. and pwm+sata = Full speed. Bad design in my opinion!
> 
> EDIT: Didnt mean to double post. how do i undo it?


Refer to my post above. I've had to correct several reviewers for their lack of knowledge of the PWM controlled fan hub for 3-pin fans.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gunilla95*
> 
> From how i understand it. you can only have 6 fans hooked up on it. and they go all on the pwm header´s power.. wich isnt that good for some motherboards.


You are miss- informed. The fan hub will control up to 11 fans or 30 watts worth of fans easily. All but header # 1 can use splitters. Header # 1 is the "control" fan for hub.


----------



## Gunilla95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> What I post is based on use, research and knowledge. I do sometimes make mistakes, we all do. But what you are saying is not what the hub is or how it works.
> 
> Here is page 30 of the Enthoo Pro manual showing hub and explaining how to hook it up It looks the same as my Enthoo Primo hub but has a Sata power connector, not a Molex.
> 
> Please learn about what the Phanteks PWM controlled 3-pin fan is and how it works before posting such things.
> Refer to my post above. I've had to correct several reviewers for their lack of knowledge of the PWM controlled fan hub for 3-pin fans.
> You are miss- informed. The fan hub will control up to 11 fans or 30 watts worth of fans easily. All but header # 1 can use splitters. Header # 1 is the "control" fan for hub.


Im terribly sorry for the false information. I took my information From an review i saw earlier today. Next time im gonna take up more information before i post.


----------



## doyll

Sorry I jumped you. I've been caught at time by false info myself.
















What review was it please? So I can set them straight too.


----------



## Gunilla95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Sorry I jumped you. I've been caught at time by false info myself.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What review was it please? So I can set them straight too.


Haha well I hope your Swedish is good!
He mentioned it in the Video Review of the Pro On Sweclockers.com wich is like.. the biggest place for Swedish Enthusiasts and they have never layed out false info before. Thats why I believed it o.o


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Ignore this


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Not really they don't. They each control different fans (3-pin vs 4-pin) in totally different ways.
> 
> Swiftech PWM controlled PSU powered hub only controls 4-pin PWM controlled fans by supplying PWM signal to the PWM PCB in each PWM fan to pulse the 12v power coming from PSU.
> Phanteks PWM controlled PSU powered hub uses the PWM signal to control the power going to the 3-pin fans. Not sure if this is done by lowering voltage or by pulsing 12v power to fans.
> Hope that makes sense.


I'm gonna say the 1st one cause it works even with variable voltage CHA / OPT headers
Same fan / different mounting frame.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> SilentPC review is F140TS / HP fans


Same fan / different mounting frame.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Leeford*
> 
> Great idea, but I had these factors to consider:
> .....And I have never had a AIO cooler. I am curious about them and want to do some experimenting.


Well if ya must use an AIO, if ya wanna sit in the same room with it, I'd use the H110 ..... won't cool as well as the Phanteks but it's actually hair quieter.... the H100i OTOH breaks 60 dBA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pierre3400*
> 
> Yes, i will agree, OCD is anal.
> 
> Personally i want things to look symetical if possible. I spend more time on sorting out wires than i spend installing hardware, I can build a pc in 30mins, like most people, but i tend to spend 8 to 10 hours building my own rig, everytime i take it apart, unless me secondary is down, then i can rush it.
> 
> I rushed my Primo yesterday after installing a third 7970, which is still running on air. That said, i am currently slowly gearing up to rebuild the whole rig. First step was new GPU blocks, and alreay with only 2 blocks changed from the EK VGA Supremacy to HeatKill blocks, the temps dropped 20c on card, and 10 on the other. I did it for the looks, but happy to find performance.


I'm gonna attribute a lot of that to a better install.....what were the before after temps.....usually only a 2C difference between blocks.

Check the VRMs .....

EK is generally about 2C higher on the GPU but hits as much as 12C lower on the VRM....same block on the 780 / 780 Ti / Titan






I'm using EK blocks on my 780s and under Furmark they hit 39C on the GPU.... 50ish on the VRM






Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RnRollie*
> 
> ok, i'm gonna pull the trigger on a (white) Primo
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> However, i do have a question -and i apologize if its something i've overlooked in this thread- about the depth
> It has to do with not all radiators being equal
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So, if someone can tell me the real (measured) depth ... 145mm - 148mm - 150mm - more???
> 
> It comes down to me knowing if i can order some "exotic" rads now or if its better to wait till i have the Primo & a ruler in my hands


This info is given in the ModZoo review ....IIRC it was 145mm

The Alphacool 280s fit .... which is handy as they have the best performance.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jdsb52*
> 
> how bad is finger printing on the Primo????


Enough to be noted in a good number of reviews..... but once assembled ya don't really touch the more apt to show surfaces.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaveLT*
> 
> Nah. It's absolutely not working for me. I hook it up to 12v, drop it down to 6v and it's still running at 600rpm.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Whatever PWM speeds I set for the PWM output the fan stays at 800rpm on the fan controller
> What a shame.


OK, I think I have ya figured out. If you connect the fan hub to a PWM MoBo (CPU) header and a PSU Molex it works just fine. If you connect the fan hub to a Variable Voltage header (CHA or OPT) then the hub is receiving a voltage signal .... and this will work just fine. However, once you connect the 12V feed from the molex, then it sees 12v instead of the variable voltage signal and at 12V you fans will run at full speed....yank the molex / other source of 12v power and you will be just fine.

The 140mm Phanteks fans pull 0.14 amps..... you will be fine with 6 of them on any MoBo Header. The 200mm is 0.25 amps.


----------



## doyll

Just read their written review
Quote:


> Last but not least, Phanteks decorated Enthoo Pro with an upgraded version of the fan hub they used inside Enthoo Primo. It is still about the same smart PWM controller that previously, in which a single cable connected to CPU fan header on the motherboard. The PWM signal is then interpreted by the circuit board which in turn control up to six connected fans. Unlike the previous version powered the whole package now by a single SATA power connector.
> 
> That PWM-hub introduced together with Enthoo Primo returns to Enthoo Pro cannot be seen as anything other than extremely pleasant. This is simple, yet very effective and flexible with the ability to control up to six fans with only a 4-pin contact attached to the motherboard. The day more manufacturers take for this solution is a happy one at that.


Only problem I see is saying it's a 6 fan hub. Phanteks does a pretty good job of explaining how the hub works in the manual.


----------



## GOLDDUBBY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gunilla95*
> 
> Haha well I hope your Swedish is good!
> He mentioned it in the Video Review of the Pro On Sweclockers.com wich is like.. the biggest place for Swedish Enthusiasts and they have never layed out false info before. Thats why I believed it o.o


sweclockers.com forum is awesome, it's the swedish equivalent to overclock.net

That being said, the forums and the review part is not necessarily linked, and I stopped watching their reviews because they are often mistaken about facts.

I don't know how many reviews I've seen of the gtx 780 Lightning where they claim that the 3 fans are individually controlled for instance. Which of course is false. Now when you look at the card you see that there are in fact 3 simular connectors on the back, but the fact is that the 2 black fans sits on one connector and the yellow one in the middle sits on a second. The 3'rd connector is for the Lightning logo on the side of the card that changes color depending on the wattage pull. I can see why a reviewer would assume that the 3 simular headers would control the 3 fans, but when you get to know the card (like me that have had 5 of them rigged up for water cooling) then you get to know the facts.

doyll has a love of these pwm hubs, or so it seems. I would trust him any day on their functionality!


----------



## DaveLT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Sorry I jumped you. I've been caught at time by false info myself.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What review was it please? So I can set them straight too.


I don't know what you are doing man. I said I didn't connect it to SATA at all. If I did, it will still be running at full speed anyway and yes I've already checked the manual

I'm just using the PWM of the mobo and it's not working and all it does is make my fan whine like it's in pain

that voltage resistor thing connects DIRECTLY to my fan, not the fan controller


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> I'm gonna say the 1st one cause it works even with variable voltage CHA / OPT headers
> Same fan / different mounting frame.


Indeed. Hub does work as 3-pin splitter when used on variable voltage motherboard header.

This is probably why DaveLT's fans are running slower when SATA is not connected.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GOLDDUBBY*
> 
> [
> doyll has a love of these pwm hubs, or so it seems. I would trust him any day on their functionality!


I do indeed like these hubs, but I'm not in love with them.








Just want people to know how the work and get optimum use out of them.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaveLT*
> 
> I don't know what you are doing man. I said I didn't connect it to SATA at all. If I did, it will still be running at full speed anyway and yes I've already checked the manual
> 
> I'm just using the PWM of the mobo and it's not working and all it does is make my fan whine like it's in pain
> 
> that voltage resistor thing connects DIRECTLY to my fan, not the fan controller


It is possible the hub is defective.
But think!
Use that gray stuff between your ears!
If the fans are running slower without the Sata power connected to PSU than with it connected, you do not have PWM signal going to hub. You have less than 12v coming from CPU fan header.. meaning it is not PWM!!

When hub has PWM from motherboard, there is 12v going to fan all the time. The PWM signal from motherboard goes to hub and hub pulses the 12v power going to fan.

Phanteks PWM controlled 3-pin fan hub.
From Enthoo Pro manual, page 30

*18. PWM FAN HUB INSTALLATION*

The PWM hub functions optimally when modulated by a PWM signal from the motherboard, which will all the greatest control range. However, not all 4-pin motherboard connectors implement the PWM signal modulation.
*
Connecting the 4-pin to CPU_FAN*
For full PWM functionality, Phanteks' PWM hub requires users to connect the 4-pin connector to the "CPU_Fan" connector of the motherboard, because all motherboard manufacturers implements a PWM signal modulation on this connector. Connect the SATA 12V power to power the PWM hub. Not all motherboards have their CPU_Fan connector set on PWM signal modulation by default. Please consult your motherboard documentation for this matter.

*Connecting the 4-pin to other 4-pin header (besides the CPU_Fan)*
Other 4-pon connectors can be found on modern motherboards besides the "CPU_Fan" connector (e.g. "CPU_Fan2", "CHA_FAn", "OPT_Fan"), however not all motherboard manufacturers implement a true PWM signal modulation onto these connectors. These type of 4-pin connectors modulate the RPM by voltage, which has a smaller control range compared to modulation by true PWM signal.

The 12v SATA power cable can not be used to power the PWM hub if connecting to these types of 4-pin connectors, due to the interference with the RPM regulation by voltage (resulting in the fans running on full RPM). The PWM hub will draw it's power from the 4-pin connector, which is limited to a total device consuming 30W in total.

_Important Note:
1 motherboard connector can only read 1 RPM signal. Therefore, the motherboard will only read the RPM signal from1 device connected to FAN 1. The RPM from all other devices will be regulated according to FAN 1. Y-splitter should not be connected to FAN 1._


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> I'm gonna say the 1st one cause it works even with variable voltage CHA / OPT headers
> Same fan / different mounting frame.


Indeed. Hub does work as 3-pin splitter when used on variable voltage motherboard header.

This is probably why DaveLT's fans are running slower when SATA is not connected.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaveLT*
> 
> I don't know what you are doing man. I said I didn't connect it to SATA at all. If I did, it will still be running at full speed anyway and yes I've already checked the manual
> 
> I'm just using the PWM of the mobo and it's not working and all it does is make my fan whine like it's in pain
> 
> that voltage resistor thing connects DIRECTLY to my fan, not the fan controller


It is possible the hub is defective.
But think!
Use that gray stuff between your ears!
If the fans are running slower without the Sata power connected to PSU than with it connected, you do not have PWM signal going to hub. You have less than 12v coming from CPU fan header.. meaning it is not PWM!!

When hub has PWM from motherboard, there is 12v going to fan all the time. The PWM signal from motherboard goes to hub and hub pulses the 12v power going to fan.

I'm putting this in first post with other important information:

Phanteks PWM controlled 3-pin fan hub.
From Enthoo Pro manual, page 30

*18. PWM FAN HUB INSTALLATION*

The PWM hub functions optimally when modulated by a PWM signal from the motherboard, which will all the greatest control range. However, not all 4-pin motherboard connectors implement the PWM signal modulation.
*
Connecting the 4-pin to CPU_FAN*
For full PWM functionality, Phanteks' PWM hub requires users to connect the 4-pin connector to the "CPU_Fan" connector of the motherboard, because all motherboard manufacturers implements a PWM signal modulation on this connector. Connect the SATA 12V power to power the PWM hub. Not all motherboards have their CPU_Fan connector set on PWM signal modulation by default. Please consult your motherboard documentation for this matter.

*Connecting the 4-pin to other 4-pin header (besides the CPU_Fan)*
Other 4-pon connectors can be found on modern motherboards besides the "CPU_Fan" connector (e.g. "CPU_Fan2", "CHA_FAn", "OPT_Fan"), however not all motherboard manufacturers implement a true PWM signal modulation onto these connectors. These type of 4-pin connectors modulate the RPM by voltage, which has a smaller control range compared to modulation by true PWM signal.

The 12v SATA power cable can not be used to power the PWM hub if connecting to these types of 4-pin connectors, due to the interference with the RPM regulation by voltage (resulting in the fans running on full RPM). The PWM hub will draw it's power from the 4-pin connector, which is limited to a total device consuming 30W in total.

_Important Note:
1 motherboard connector can only read 1 RPM signal. Therefore, the motherboard will only read the RPM signal from1 device connected to FAN 1. The RPM from all other devices will be regulated according to FAN 1. Y-splitter should not be connected to FAN 1._


----------



## DaveLT

> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *DaveLT*
> 
> I don't know what you are doing man. I said I didn't connect it to SATA at all. If I did, it will still be running at full speed anyway and yes I've already checked the manual
> 
> I'm just using the PWM of the mobo and it's not working and all it does is make my fan whine like it's in pain
> 
> that voltage resistor thing connects DIRECTLY to my fan, not the fan controller
> 
> 
> 
> It is possible the hub is defective.
> But think!
> Use that gray stuff between your ears!
> If the fans are running slower without the Sata power connected to PSU than with it connected, you do not have PWM signal going to hub. You have less than 12v coming from CPU fan header.. meaning it is not PWM!!
> 
> When hub has PWM from motherboard, there is 12v going to fan all the time. The PWM signal from motherboard goes to hub and hub pulses the 12v power going to fan.
Click to expand...

/Doyll. /facepalm

My CPU header is a bloody PWM socket. the voltage resistor is from another 3 pin plug and I used a *IN LINE RESISTOR *so it will spin slower without connecting it to the fan controller. Not that I don't have PWM the mobo PWM output definitely works with my Jetflos on my custom PWM splitter. In fact, connecting to sata yields the same freaking speed


----------



## JackNaylorPE

I'm confused







. It says above you connected it with the resistor so it will run slower without connecting it to the hub. If it's not connected to the hub, how is the hub not working ? I have used resistors on a direct 12v source but never on a MoBo header.....kinda like having brakes on ya brakes.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaveLT*
> 
> /Doyll. /facepalm
> 
> My CPU header is a bloody PWM socket. the voltage resistor is from another 3 pin plug and I used a *IN LINE RESISTOR *so it will spin slower without connecting it to the fan controller. Not that I don't have PWM the mobo PWM output definitely works with my Jetflos on my custom PWM splitter. In fact, connecting to sata yields the same freaking speed


Chill out. I said nothing about yor in line resister.
You don't need to repeat yourself.
It's okay Dave.








I have no idea what your "custom PWM splitter" is. Fans do not run on "normal" PWM splitter with PSU power connection if PSU power is not connected.. because there is no power to fan.







.
I said it may be defective.
What more do you want?
I'm not going to say your hub is defective without actually testing it myself. I think you can understand that.


----------



## DaveLT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> I'm confused
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . It says above you connected it with the resistor so it will run slower without connecting it to the hub. If it's not connected to the hub, how is the hub not working ? I have used resistors on a direct 12v source but never on a MoBo header.....kinda like having brakes on ya brakes.


I said I connected the resistor direct to my fan to test if it slows down. It will.

I didn't connect ANYTHING apart from 1 fan to the pwm controller and to the CPU_PWM header and nada. All I get is a loud hum from my fans and on full speed.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaveLT*
> 
> I didn't connect ANYTHING apart from 1 fan to the pwm controller and to the CPU_PWM header and nada. All I get is a loud hum from my fans and on full speed.


Well can be one of three things....

Hub is dead
Fan is quirky..... Corsairs have been known to "not work" for example.
MoBo Header is borked


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaveLT*
> 
> I said I connected the resistor direct to my fan to test if it slows down. It will.
> 
> I didn't connect ANYTHING apart from 1 fan to the pwm controller and to the CPU_PWM header and nada. All I get is a loud hum from my fans and on full speed.


Why would a fan not slow down with an inline resister?








You are not making sense.
if you only connected *1 fan* and the 4-pin PWM lead from hub to CPU header, how can *fans* hum and go full speed?
You need to slow down, clear your mind of all defensive thinking, and give us good clear detailed descriptions of what you have tried so far..


----------



## JackNaylorPE

1. CPU Header => Fan
2. CPU Header => Hub => Fan

Behave any differently ? And make sure the fan is on the correct primary bub on the PCB .... the one that provides feedback.


----------



## DaveLT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> 1. CPU Header => Fan
> 2. CPU Header => Hub => Fan
> 
> Behave any differently ? And make sure the fan is on the correct primary bub on the PCB .... the one that provides feedback.


1. Random 3pin header without voltage control => Resistor => Fan

2. CPU Header => Fan = Hum and full speed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *DaveLT*
> 
> I didn't connect ANYTHING apart from 1 fan to the pwm controller and to the CPU_PWM header and nada. All I get is a loud hum from my fans and on full speed.
> 
> 
> 
> Well can be one of three things....
> 
> Hub is dead
> Fan is quirky..... Corsairs have been known to "not work" for example.
> MoBo Header is borked
> Tried many fans, deltas, NMBs, San Aces, Jetflos
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *DaveLT*
> 
> I said I connected the resistor direct to my fan to test if it slows down. It will.
> 
> I didn't connect ANYTHING apart from 1 fan to the pwm controller and to the CPU_PWM header and nada. All I get is a loud hum from my fans and on full speed.
> 
> 
> 
> Why would a fan not slow down with an inline resister?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You are not making sense.
> if you only connected *1 fan *and the 4-pin PWM lead from hub to CPU header, how can *fans *hum and go full speed?
> You need to slow down, clear your mind of all defensive thinking, and give us good clear detailed descriptions of what you have tried so far..
> 
> Aye ... Let me repeat again. I did NOT connect a inline resistor to the hub.
> I connected *1 fan to the hub *and did not connect the sata.
Click to expand...


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaveLT*
> 
> 1. Random 3pin header without voltage control => Resistor => Fan
> 2. CPU Header => Fan = Hum and full speed


1.a I haven't seen one of those no voltage control 3 pin headers on modern MoBos

1.b Still.... having the resistor in the mix doesn't allow ruling out anything.

2. CPU Header => Fan = Hum and full speed ..... So your problem exists when there's no hub present .... so why is the hub at fault ?


----------



## DaveLT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *DaveLT*
> 
> 1. Random 3pin header without voltage control => Resistor => Fan
> 2. CPU Header => Fan = Hum and full speed
> 
> 
> 
> 1.a I haven't seen one of those no voltage control 3 pin headers on modern MoBos
> 
> 1.b Still.... having the resistor in the mix doesn't allow ruling out anything.
> 
> 2. CPU Header => Fan = Hum and full speed ..... So your problem exists when there's no hub present .... so why is the hub at fault ?
Click to expand...

Not on a EX58-UD5.

I mean CPU header => Phanteks Pro Fan controller => Fan

I mistyped LOL.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

So apparently we still missing MoBo => Fan test as the control

As for the UD5, I did say "modern"







.... still my son's Asus X58 headers on the MoBo has voltage control.

I did try and look at the User manual and have to say that is the crappiest manual I have ever seen.

http://download.gigabyte.us/FileList/Manual/mb_installation_guide.pdf

However, Motherboard review and other sources says that that MoBo has speed control

http://www.pcper.com/reviews/Motherboards/Gigabyte-GA-EX58-UD5-X58-Motherboard-Review
http://it.gigabyte.com/products/page/mb/ga-ex58-ud5_10/advantage/
Quote:


> Whether the CPU/*system fan speed control function* is supported will depend on the CPU/system cooler you install.


----------



## DaveLT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> So apparently we still missing MoBo => Fan test as the control
> 
> As for the UD5, I did say "modern"
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .... still my son's Asus X58 headers on the MoBo has voltage control.
> 
> I did try and look at the User manual and have to say that is the crappiest manual I have ever seen.
> 
> http://download.gigabyte.us/FileList/Manual/mb_installation_guide.pdf
> 
> However, Motherboard review and other sources says that that MoBo has speed control
> 
> http://www.pcper.com/reviews/Motherboards/Gigabyte-GA-EX58-UD5-X58-Motherboard-Review
> http://it.gigabyte.com/products/page/mb/ga-ex58-ud5_10/advantage/
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Whether the CPU/*system fan speed control function* is supported will depend on the CPU/system cooler you install.
Click to expand...

Of course it has PWM control, I've been using it on my PWM splitter out to my 3 jetflos no problem.


----------



## Astote-ap

This is like watching blind people play tennis. Good luck figuring it out lol.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaveLT*
> 
> Of course it has PWM control, I've been using it on my PWM splitter out to my 3 jetflos no problem.


I'm having trouble following you; I can't reconcile that statement with
Quote:


> 1. *Random 3pin header without voltage control* => Resistor => Fan


where you say you were not using the 4 pin PWM header

or
Quote:


> 1.a I haven't seen one of those no voltage control 3 pin headers on modern MoBos
> 
> *Not on a EX58-UD5*


The EX58 UD5 in fact does have voltage controlled system fan headers


----------



## DaveLT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *DaveLT*
> 
> Of course it has PWM control, I've been using it on my PWM splitter out to my 3 jetflos no problem.
> 
> 
> 
> I'm having trouble following you; I can't reconcile that statement with
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> 1. *Random 3pin header without voltage control* => Resistor => Fan
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> where you say you were not using the 4 pin PWM header
> 
> or
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> 1.a I haven't seen one of those no voltage control 3 pin headers on modern MoBos
> 
> *Not on a EX58-UD5*
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> The EX58 UD5 in fact does have voltage controlled system fan headers
Click to expand...

Only on the bottom fan port.


----------



## RnRollie

more importantly... does the board allow for Voltage/PWM/Full/Off in the (UEFI) BIOS?

Not all MB have CPU_FAN set to PWM by default, some MB who allow you to choose between Voltage & PWM control in CPU_FAN have a tendency to "default" to Voltage.

That being said, most MB come with PWM only on the CPU_FAN header, and allow following options in the BIOS : Auto/FULL
The "better" ones offer AUTO/FULL/ meaning something like 45 °C - 30% , 46°C-35%, 47°C - 40% , etc , 60°C - 100%
Some come with an additional BIOS option on CPU_FAN, letting you choose between PWM & Votlage Control, and typically when you choose Voltage control , the range options become SLOW-MED-FAST-FULL

That being said, some MB come with another PWM implementation: a "low" (5-to-mass)" iso a "high" (0-to-5), basically an "inverted" PWM signal, which confuses the lot out of (cheap) hub & fans.

And lastly, there are the cheap & nasty which only have voltage on CPU_FAN with NO option in BIOS


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RnRollie*
> 
> more importantly... does the board allow for Voltage/PWM/Full/Off in the (UEFI) BIOS?
> 
> Not all MB have CPU_FAN set to PWM by default, some MB who allow you to choose between Voltage & PWM control in CPU_FAN have a tendency to "default" to Voltage.
> 
> That being said, most MB come with PWM only on the CPU_FAN header, and allow following options in the BIOS : Auto/FULL
> The "better" ones offer AUTO/FULL/ meaning something like 45 °C - 30% , 46°C-35%, 47°C - 40% , etc , 60°C - 100%
> Some come with an additional BIOS option on CPU_FAN, letting you choose between PWM & Votlage Control, and typically when you choose Voltage control , the range options become SLOW-MED-FAST-FULL
> 
> That being said, some MB come with another PWM implementation: a "low" (5-to-mass)" iso a "high" (0-to-5), basically an "inverted" PWM signal, which confuses the lot out of (cheap) hub & fans.
> 
> And lastly, there are the cheap & nasty which only have voltage on CPU_FAN with NO option in BIOS


this^^

Manufactures even plain lie about PWM fan headers in the manual of the boards (Asus I am looking at you). For example, Asus high end boards usually have only cpu_fan and cpu_opt as pwm controlled and the rest voltage controlled even thought they are 4 pins and in the manual ASUS state there is a 4 pin PWM in the chassis fans and opt fans of the rampage IV extreme, that is a lie...


----------



## DaveLT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RnRollie*
> 
> more importantly... does the board allow for Voltage/PWM/Full/Off in the (UEFI) BIOS?
> 
> Not all MB have CPU_FAN set to PWM by default, some MB who allow you to choose between Voltage & PWM control in CPU_FAN have a tendency to "default" to Voltage.
> 
> That being said, most MB come with PWM only on the CPU_FAN header, and allow following options in the BIOS : Auto/FULL
> The "better" ones offer AUTO/FULL/ meaning something like 45 °C - 30% , 46°C-35%, 47°C - 40% , etc , 60°C - 100%
> Some come with an additional BIOS option on CPU_FAN, letting you choose between PWM & Votlage Control, and typically when you choose Voltage control , the range options become SLOW-MED-FAST-FULL
> 
> That being said, some MB come with another PWM implementation: a "low" (5-to-mass)" iso a "high" (0-to-5), basically an "inverted" PWM signal, which confuses the lot out of (cheap) hub & fans.
> 
> And lastly, there are the cheap & nasty which only have voltage on CPU_FAN with NO option in BIOS


I have been tinkering around this mobo for a long time now. Another point I want to make ... If I wrote a air cooling guide and the user of delta fans even if hunting for low fan noise how would I not be aware of my mobo's fan settings?

The whole mobo is either PWM OR Voltage. And only the CPU header has PWM, the other 4 pin is a static voltage control

Sorry if I come across unintentionally as arrogant but doyll has been VERY dense about what I said which is driving me mad


----------



## GOLDDUBBY

Dave, I read somewhere that you're leaving x58 platform soon anyways. = new motherboard with working 4pin pwm headers?


----------



## DaveLT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GOLDDUBBY*
> 
> Dave, I read somewhere that you're leaving x58 platform soon anyways. = new motherboard with working 4pin pwm headers?


Yup. In the Xeon club..

Er no my motherboard already has working 4 pin PWM headers. I'm just moving to Z97 for some reason


----------



## GOLDDUBBY

Eew.. unless you're getting it for free I would wait for x99!


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaveLT*
> 
> I have been tinkering around this mobo for a long time now. Another point I want to make ... If I wrote a air cooling guide and the user of delta fans even if hunting for low fan noise how would I not be aware of my mobo's fan settings?
> 
> The *whole mobo is either PWM OR Voltage*. And only the *CPU header has PWM, the other 4 pin is a static voltage control*
> 
> Sorry if I come across unintentionally as arrogant but doyll has been VERY dense about what I said which is driving me mad


You accuse me of being dense?









What do you call someone who first says "_The whole mobo is either PWM OR Voltage_." Than contradicts that by saying "_the CPU header has PWM, the other 4 pin is a static voltage control_"









"static voltage control"... humm..

static as in not changing ???

voltage control as in does change ???


----------



## DaveLT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *DaveLT*
> 
> I have been tinkering around this mobo for a long time now. Another point I want to make ... If I wrote a air cooling guide and the user of delta fans even if hunting for low fan noise how would I not be aware of my mobo's fan settings?
> 
> The *whole mobo is either PWM OR Voltage*. And only the *CPU header has PWM, the other 4 pin is a static voltage control*
> 
> Sorry if I come across unintentionally as arrogant but doyll has been VERY dense about what I said which is driving me mad
> 
> 
> 
> You accuse me of being dense?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What do you call someone who first says "The whole mobo is either PWM OR Voltage." Than contradicts that by saying "the CPU header has PWM, the other 4 pin is a static voltage control"
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> "static voltage control"... humm..
> 
> static as in not changing ???
> 
> voltage control as in does change ???
Click to expand...

Static voltage control refers to it being VOLTAGE control regardless if the mobo is PWM or voltage, it's listed in the manual. If I set the BIOS fan control to PWM it's PWM if available for the CPU Header and the other fan headers CANNOT be varied.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaveLT*
> 
> Static voltage control refers to it being VOLTAGE control regardless if the mobo is PWM or voltage, it's listed in the manual.
> If I set the BIOS fan control to PWM it's PWM if available for the CPU Header
> and the other fan headers CANNOT be varied.










Voltage is always 12v on headers functioning on PWM control.

Indeed. Setting the CPU fan header to PWM only makes the CPU fan header PWM controlled.









Okay.









Than your original statement of "The whole mobo is *either PWM OR Voltage*" is incorrect? The 'mobo' *does have a PWM controlled CPU header and a fixed voltage header*? Not all PWM or all voltage?

I'm sorry, but the wording in your posts does not make sense.


----------



## DaveLT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *DaveLT*
> 
> Static voltage control refers to it being VOLTAGE control regardless if the mobo is PWM or voltage, it's listed in the manual.
> If I set the BIOS fan control to PWM it's PWM if available for the CPU Header
> and the other fan headers CANNOT be varied.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Voltage is always 12v on headers functioning on PWM control.
> 
> Indeed. Setting the CPU fan header to PWM only makes the CPU fan header PWM controlled.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Okay.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Than your original statement of "The whole mobo is *either PWM OR Voltage*" is incorrect? The 'mobo' *does have a PWM controlled CPU header and a fixed voltage header*? Not all PWM or all voltage?
> 
> I'm sorry, but the wording in your posts does not make sense.
Click to expand...

Original incorrect. Slightly.

Checking the manual only the CPU fan be controlled, the other 3 pin cibbectirs have no control at all

Only one is PWM or is voltage controlled and the bottom 4 pin (the mobo only has two) which is always voltage controlled (And I can manually adjust it in speedfan too).


----------



## zoneuk

I want this primo case, has anyone managed to customise it beyond the basic led s and fans.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zoneuk*
> 
> I want this case, has anyone managed to customise it beyond the basic led s and fans.


Which case? This thread's now a club thread for the Primo, the Luxe, and the Pro, which can make it pretty confusing, especially for anyone nowadays reading/searching through all the first ~3000 or so posts which were just about the Primo before the two newer mini-me's got added. I guess we're all going to have to be more specific from now on which case we're talking about.

If you meant the Primo there's been a few people in this thread who have made mods here and there, perhaps none more so than paulyoung as far as I can recall.


----------



## zoneuk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Which case? This thread's now a club thread for the Primo, the Luxe, and the Pro, which can make it pretty confusing, especially for anyone nowadays reading/searching through all the first ~3000 or so posts which were just about the Primo before the two newer mini-me's got added. I guess we're all going to have to be more specific from now on which case we're talking about.
> 
> If you meant the Primo there's been a few people in this thread who have made mods here and there, perhaps none more so than paulyoung as far as I can recall.


Sorry about that, your right its the Primo. could you provide some good links ?
Im going to read the last 400 pages to see.


----------



## doyll

Quite a few have Primo on castor base
 

Primo Midas build
 
 
http://forums.overclockers.co.uk/showthread.php?t=18560177

Somebody modded the front door with a nice vent design, but I can't find it right now.


----------



## rpjkw11

Is it me, or do the wheels look very undersized? The case is big, but that big? I've been seriously thinking about having castor bases made for my EPs. I don't have the tools or space to do it myself, but a friend does and has offered everything I'll need including a helping hand. I wonder what size of castors I should get, assuming they come in various sizes. I don't want it to look toy-like with over-sized castors, but I wonder about stability.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zoneuk*
> 
> Sorry about that, your right its the Primo. could you provide some good links ?
> Im going to read the last 400 pages to see.


Other than paulyoung's build which I linked before, I can't think of anyone else specifically who made such a drastic mod to the case. There's a few others buried in here somewhere but I'm not sure off-hand where. The thing about the Enthoo Primo is it was made to be able to fit so much stuff without needing to mod it.

Heck, even paulyoung could have fit those rads he did, a 420 monsta up top and a 480 monsta in the bottom, both in push-pull, without needing to remove the panel and all of the 5.25" bays like he wound up doing. Looks like the only things he accomplished by doing that is being able to see all of the rads with the side panel off - probably made it easier to get them in/out - and route tubes straight up the front of the case like he did between them. He could have routed the tubes different or drilled a couple holes for them instead, and kept the panel & 5.25" bays and the top HDD cage.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rpjkw11*
> 
> Is it me, or do the wheels look very undersized? The case is big, but that big? I've been seriously thinking about having castor bases made for my EPs. I don't have the tools or space to do it myself, but a friend does and has offered everything I'll need including a helping hand. I wonder what size of castors I should get, assuming they come in various sizes. I don't want it to look toy-like with over-sized castors, but I wonder about stability.


FWIW, I have mine on a little drawer base with oversized 3" swivel castor desk chair wheels if you want something to compare / contrast Doyll's base with. I personally went with bigger wheels not for any sort of look (if I had I actually think I personally prefer Doyll's littler ones), but rather so I can roll it over all the varying terrain in my home, things like door thresholds and carpet to hard floor transitions, etc. I built it for the Enthoo Primo after having built another larger base almost identical to it for my Cosmos 2, not-so-much with aesthetics in mind as much as for the practicality of allowing me to move it around the house & outside to the garage for the occasional blowing the dust out of it, a drawer to hold all of the spare items I want kept with it, and to keep it up off the floor away from the dust.


----------



## doyll

Here is one on 40mm castors. Using an open castor base not only makes case easier to move but also improves airflow to bottom fans. The Primo base vent area about 91sq cm.. and that is not accounting for the grill mesh only having 30-40% blocking another 18.72sq cm of open area. A 120mm fan has 101sq cm of open area. Raising case on 30mm castors adds 400sq cm of open area for airflow to bottom .
 

I am trying to find a hexagonal / honeycomb mesh with 4.5mm holes on 5mm stagger / centers which has 81% open area. Actually I have found it, but it is in 1x2meter sheets costing over £100.00


----------



## GOLDDUBBY

lol that's redonkulus. "Modders mesh" .. go with that

Do you people use the side fan for anything useful? There's a bracket for a rad there, but I dont use it because I needed the space for other things. I did mount one of the phantek's fans there though. Screwed it on to the sidepanel, so still not using the bracket


----------



## Roxycon

Cheap solution


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GOLDDUBBY*
> 
> lol that's redonkulus. "Modders mesh" .. go with that










More like you are redonkulus.















Here are three sources of Modders Mesh, aka perforated metal mesh.








http://mnpctech.com/case-mods-gaming-pc-liquid-modding-custom-computer-mnpctech-overclock-cooling-fan-grills/modders-mesh-perforated-aluminum-steel-honeycomb-grill-intake-front-fan-slotted-diamond-round-hex/modders-mesh.html
http://chilledpc.co.uk/shop/index.php?route=product/category&path=59_76
http://www.frozencpu.com/cat/l3/g43/c12/s450/list/p1/Case_Parts-OEM-Misc_Case_Parts-Modders_Mesh_Panels-Page1.html
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roxycon*
> 
> [IMG
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> ALT=""]http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/2030355/width/500/height/1000[/IMG]
> 
> 
> Cheap solution


Did some poor little kid loose 4 of their blocks?







Been there, done that, but couldn't find a T-shirt.


----------



## Pierre3400

Few updated shots of my Primo


----------



## RnRollie

Mesh....
: Home Depot ,
you can also find similar and different at LOWE, Menard, bwire and car body shops eg. Halfords (UK) or Custom Car Grills

Cheapest by far will be DIY like Home Depot, but if you want really exotic stuff, then a specialist like a Custom Car is the way to pay your way









PS: I remember seeing something like it a B&Q....


----------



## rpjkw11

I'm working on my second cup of coffee so I'm a bit confused. Is the modder's mesh intended for the bottom of the base? If so, I'd given little thought to that. I assumed the base would be completely open, not that it matters so long as the mesh, if used, doesn't impede air flow.

I like the larger wheels, Unicr0nhunter. Should I ever want to take my rig out on the balcony, they would be much better as we have a very "hefty" threshold because we live in "hurricane country".

GOLDDUBBY, I air cool and I've thought about installing a fan or two in that location, but I'm not sure how much good it would do, short of adding more noise. I've removed all of the drive cages, mounted my sole HDD in a 5.25 drive bay, and installed my SSDs behind the mobo and on the floor where the drive cages sit. Thus, I have as unrestricted airflow from the front to the rear as I can get. A side intake from that location might disturb my existing airflow, but I really have no idea or a way of testing it.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RnRollie*
> 
> Mesh....
> : Home Depot ,
> you can also find similar and different at LOWE, Menard, bwire and car body shops eg. Halfords (UK) or Custom Car Grills
> 
> Cheapest by far will be DIY like Home Depot, but if you want really exotic stuff, then a specialist like a Custom Car is the way to pay your way
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> PS: I remember seeing something like it a B&Q....


All that I found in places like that had bigger holes.








But thanks for looking.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rpjkw11*
> 
> I'm working on my second cup of coffee so I'm a bit confused. Is the modder's mesh intended for the bottom of the base? If so, I'd given little thought to that. I assumed the base would be completely open, not that it matters so long as the mesh, if used, doesn't impede air flow.


Trying to find mesh to replace the stock vent mesh. The Hex 4.5mm 5mm offset has at least twice, maybe 2.5 as much open area of stock vent mesh.


----------



## GOLDDUBBY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> More like you are redonkulus.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here are three sources of Modders Mesh, aka perforated metal mesh.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://mnpctech.com/case-mods-gaming-pc-liquid-modding-custom-computer-mnpctech-overclock-cooling-fan-grills/modders-mesh-perforated-aluminum-steel-honeycomb-grill-intake-front-fan-slotted-diamond-round-hex/modders-mesh.html
> http://chilledpc.co.uk/shop/index.php?route=product/category&path=59_76
> http://www.frozencpu.com/cat/l3/g43/c12/s450/list/p1/Case_Parts-OEM-Misc_Case_Parts-Modders_Mesh_Panels-Page1.html
> Did some poor little kid loose 4 of their blocks?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Been there, done that, but couldn't find a T-shirt.


Man I don't care what you say. Spending 100£ / $160 on some fancy chickens net is just not ok, while there's people starving in the world.


----------



## DaveLT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GOLDDUBBY*
> 
> Man I don't care what you say. Spending 100£ / $160 on some fancy chickens net is just not ok, while there's people starving in the world.


how is it 100 euros?

Anyway here's my writeup on the brilliant enthoo pro
http://www.overclock.net/t/1490181/project-log-fall-of-schwarz-the-white-h-lle/0_50#post_22310949


----------



## GOLDDUBBY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rpjkw11*
> 
> ....
> 
> GOLDDUBBY, I air cool and I've thought about installing a fan or two in that location, but I'm not sure how much good it would do, short of adding more noise. I've removed all of the drive cages, mounted my sole HDD in a 5.25 drive bay, and installed my SSDs behind the mobo and on the floor where the drive cages sit. Thus, I have as unrestricted airflow from the front to the rear as I can get. A side intake from that location might disturb my existing airflow, but I really have no idea or a way of testing it.


Well, you are pushing more air in to the case. Might help just to get that little bit of extra airflow in there. In my case that fan is set to trigger at a quite high temperature, around 40 C i believe. So that I don't need to clean that filter too often, and it doesn't create any extra sound or noise unless the extra air is really needed. Intense gaming / Benchmarks etc.. It is a really silent fan, though.


----------



## zoneuk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GOLDDUBBY*
> 
> Man I don't care what you say. Spending 100£ / $160 on some fancy chickens net is just not ok, while there's people starving in the world.


lol your right, why would any one do that, its costing £200 for the case why spend half of that on a mesh?


----------



## rpjkw11

So I realized after the fourth cup of coffee. Of course by then it was too late.


----------



## doyll

You are over-reacting and being very opinionated sir.

When and where did I say I bought it?









I only said
Quote:


> Actually I have found it, but it is in 1x2meter sheets costing over


And a 1x2meter sheet would be enough to do many cases.. but that is assuming I was crazy enough to buy it.

MNPCTech sell 0.3x0.6meter for $29.98. Do the math and see how much a 1x2meter sheet is worth in smaller pieces. More than 2 times the price I stated.. because there is shipping and a 20% tax added into that £100.00 price


----------



## skywalker311

Here my new plate that I had made to replace the phanteks plate.


----------



## zoneuk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skywalker311*
> 
> Here my new plate that I had made to replace the phanteks plate.


I was thinking of doing the same thing with mine when i have the oney to get the case


----------



## skywalker311

I had Toby kirkby made this for me and he did a killer job on it. What he did was recessed the red acrylic so that it be flush in the back. The only thing (not on his part) is that I had to cut the plate mount out so that when lit with leds the whole logo would glow. So that what I'm doing at the moment. If you need a plate done He over there on your side of the world. In the UK.


----------



## zoneuk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skywalker311*
> 
> I had Toby kirkby made this for me and he did a killer job on it. What he did was recessed the red acrylic so that it be flush in the back. The only thing (not on his part) is that I had to cut the plate mount out so that when lit with leds the whole logo would glow. So that what I'm doing at the moment. If you need a plate done He over there on your side of the world. In the UK.


Thanks what was the cost ?
i;ve still not got the money for the case so i cant spend too much on extras yet.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roxycon*
> 
> Cheap solution


I was planning hockey pucks


----------



## Roxycon

@doyll haha, those blocks have actually been mine since i was 3 year old







my granddad made them so that i could have levitated train tracks









@JackNaylorPE would have looked better than mine, being black and all







wont be making anything more fancy than the blocks until i get my own place though


----------



## skywalker311

£35 was the cost. So it was $60 us.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RnRollie*
> 
> Mesh....
> : Home Depot ,
> you can also find similar and different at LOWE, Menard,
> 
> Cheapest by far will be DIY like Home Depot, but if you want really exotic stuff, then a specialist like a Custom Car is the way to pay your way
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> PS: I remember seeing something like it a B&Q....


The Home Depot ones for the most part have limited open area..... the Modders Mesh from MNPCTech were posted about 100 ages back as well as some car grille stores. If I do it, I'd use the MNPC stuff but shipping tot he UK is expensive and I haven't found a PC shop with the stiff in UK


----------



## SteelArt

Hello everyone,

got my Phanteks Enthoo Primo White some days ago.


And I have ordered water cooling parts as well, except pump and reservoir. Can anybody recommend me a perfect tube reservoir or tube res/pump combo that I can fit without any additional drills and use two long graphic cards with no problems? I don't care how much it will cost. I just need the best and suitable tube res. Or Bay res is the best option?

Thanks in advance.


----------



## RnRollie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteelArt*
> 
> Hello everyone,
> ---snip---
> a perfect tube reservoir or tube res/pump combo ---snip--- I don't care how much it will cost. I just need the best and suitable tube res. Or Bay res is the best option?
> 
> Thanks in advance.


well.... you are in nano-coated Aqualis territory then







It might not really show on the pictures, but once you hold an Aqualis in your hand you'll notice that its quality, look & feel is waaaay better compared to other "plasticky tube res.
http://shop.aquacomputer.de/index.php?cPath=7_28

The XSPC Photon is a looker also
http://www.xs-pc.com/water-pumps/

Strangely enough, neither are the best throughflow performers: awkward pump-channel internals for the XSPC and too many flow/pressure/temp/sensor provisions in the Aqualis

If you really want a combined tube/pump AND high throughflow performance... there are others
OR just go for a separate tube & pump, its the less troublesome solution in most cases


----------



## DaveLT

If you want a tube res just get a male to male fitting and attach a d5 top to the res.

Preferably a bitspower mod kit and a bitspower mod top along with a res.


----------



## SteelArt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RnRollie*
> 
> OR just go for a separate tube & pump


Thanks for your answer.

Wel, I was thinking about EK-RES X3 250 Reservoir to mount on the bracket and EK D5 + EK-D5 Vario X-TOP - Plexi to mount on the pump bracket near the PSU.

Do you think that EK-RES X3 250 will fit perfectly? I mean no additional holes etc and two GTX780 will fit too?

And I am not sure if there is enough space for PSU cables if I'll install pump to the default pump bracket.


----------



## SteelArt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaveLT*
> 
> If you want a tube res just get a male to male fitting and attach a d5 top to the res.


May I use for example EK-D5-XRES-TOP-140-CSQ-AC ? Or square res top is not good to mount top+res to the default bracket?

Thanks.


----------



## RnRollie

Me not big fan of EK, so it's the last i tend to look at, so i'm not well versed in their catalogue..







ask if they have Pump-Res combo's and i'll say yes. Ask me to list their models & best application and you'll get a blank stare









However, i'm waiting for my primo, but i suggest you to check, it seems that the whole reservoir bracket/holder plate has been one of the minor mistakes.
It might not be possible to actually use/mount the plate when using GPU's of a certain length.

Someone will chime in on this


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteelArt*
> 
> Hello everyone,
> 
> got my Phanteks Enthoo Primo White some days ago.
> 
> 
> And I have ordered water cooling parts as well, except pump and reservoir. Can anybody recommend me a perfect tube reservoir or tube res/pump combo that I can fit without any additional drills and use two long graphic cards with no problems? I don't care how much it will cost. I just need the best and suitable tube res. Or Bay res is the best option?
> 
> Thanks in advance.


I had my heart set on an Aqualis but using one would have meant giving up the reservoir bracket. So I went with an EK-Res 3 - 250mm. I think the Aqualis fits with that short 760 but not with anything bigger

Reservoir - EK-MultiOption RES X3 250 - Liquid Cooling Reservoir - White Acetal (6 Total Ports) w/ (2) EK Extender Fittings
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/21672/ex-res-677/EK-MultiOption_RES_X3_250_-_Liquid_Cooling_Reservoir_-_White_Acetal_6_Total_Ports.html?tl=g57c615s1940#blank

Reservoir Top - EK X3 Reservoir Multiport Replacement Top - White (EK-RES X3 - Multiport TOP WHITE)
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/18485/ex-res-481/EK_X3_Reservoir_Multiport_Replacement_Top_-_White_EK-RES_X3_-_Multiport_TOP_WHITE.html?id=4NiLmkLB&mv_pc=1254

Reservoir Fill Tube Internal Tube 12/16 - 140mm (EK-RES-X3-TUBE-140
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_1165_1162&products_id=36312

EK - Extender Fitting - EK G1/4 Thread Fitting Extender - Nickel - 8mm (Fitting Extender G1/4 (Ni))
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/18760/scr-701/EK_G14_Thread_Fitting_Extender_-_Nickel_-_8mm_Fitting_Extender_G14_Ni.html?id=4NiLmkLB&mv_pc=1256

I think it's a better idea to uncouple the reservoir and pump. The Enthoo is ideally suited for this arrangement. The res bracket works great with the EK res, it's available in white, and you will fit in SLI Graphics cards (up to 10.6") if ya use the correct ED Block ..... They make 3, two of which run full length and one that is an inch shorter. it's the short "Clean" version that ya want. Example:

GPU Water Block - EK ASUS GeForce 780 GTX DCII VGA Liquid Cooling Block - Nickel (EK-FC780 GTX DCII - Nickel)
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/21270/ex-blc-1529/EK_ASUS_GeForce_780_GTX_DCII_VGA_Liquid_Cooling_Block_-_Nickel_EK-FC780_GTX_DCII_-_Nickel.html?tl=c613s1928b133

GPU Water Block Backplate - EK ASUS GeForce 780 GTX DCII VGA Liquid Cooling RAM Backplate - Black CSQ (EK-FC780 GTX DCII Backplate - Black)
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/21273/ex-blc-1532/EK_ASUS_GeForce_780_GTX_DCII_VGA_Liquid_Cooling_RAM_Backplate_-_Black_CSQ_EK-FC780_GTX_DCII_Backplate_-_Black.html?tl=c613s1928b133

The Enthoo pump bracket can be relocated to mount under the top HD cage (take lower one out). You can even fit the Monster sized 35x2 in there w/ heatsink, fan and all. My build is all acrylic but I did use flex tubing for the connections between pump and res (< 3")


----------



## SteelArt

RnRollie, JackNaylorPE, DaveLT - thanks guys. I think I'll order next items:

D5 pump + Bitspower D5 Mod Top V2 - Acrylic - Black (G1/4 Version) + bitspower D5 Pump Mod Kit and install it to default pump bracket.
EK Res X3 250 and install it to default res bracket.

Hope I'll fit it perfectly with two GTX 780's.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteelArt*
> 
> RnRollie, JackNaylorPE, DaveLT - thanks guys. I think I'll order next items:
> 
> D5 pump + Bitspower D5 Mod Top V2 - Acrylic - Black (G1/4 Version) + bitspower D5 Pump Mod Kit and install it to default pump bracket.
> EK Res X3 250 and install it to default res bracket.
> 
> Hope I'll fit it perfectly with two GTX 780's.


MSI N Gaming = Yes*
Asus DCII = Yes*
EK SC = Yes* (poor performer compared with other 2 + ACX only distinguishing feature is the cooler ya gonna take off)
Gigabyte = Can'rt remember but I think it's bigger than 10.6"
MSI Lightning = No

* It fits with the EK "Clean" water (acrylic no EL Logo circles). The other two EK blocks will hit the res bracket.


----------



## SteelArt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> MSI N Gaming = Yes*
> 
> * It fits with the EK "Clean" water (acrylic no EL Logo circles). The other two EK blocks will hit the res bracket.


I have MSI 780 Gaming and I was thinking to order this waterblock:


So, you say it will not fit? Looks like it's longer than card's PCB by 2-3mm.

And what about backplate?
I have ordered this:

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/21974/ex-blc-1576/EK_GTX_Titan_780_780_Ti_770_VGA_Liquid_Cooling_RAM_Backplate_-_Black_EK-FC780_GTX_Ti_Backplate_-_Black.html

Will it fit?


----------



## ZealotKi11er

Anyone know when Enthoo Pro is coming out?


----------



## zoneuk

I know i want a primo but both look good black and white which should i get ?


----------



## DaveLT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZealotKi11er*
> 
> Anyone know when Enthoo Pro is coming out?


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteelArt*
> 
> I have MSI 780 Gaming and I was thinking to order this waterblock:
> 
> 
> So, you say it will not fit? Looks like it's longer than card's PCB by 2-3mm.
> 
> And what about backplate?
> I have ordered this:
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/21974/ex-blc-1576/EK_GTX_Titan_780_780_Ti_770_VGA_Liquid_Cooling_RAM_Backplate_-_Black_EK-FC780_GTX_Ti_Backplate_-_Black.html
> 
> Will it fit?


Ya see the part that has the cut out around the cable sockets, that's gonna hit the res bracket. Ya want the one that looks like this:



Rather than like this



The backplate is fine

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zoneuk*
> 
> I know i want a primo but both look good black and white which should i get ?


You must be a husband










Transcript from my last Husband's Anonymous meeting:

"Hello, my name is Jack and I am a husband ..... It's been 24 year's since my last decision."

The white is $30 more if that matters.

The white is "new and different" if that matters.

Getting matching white res / rads / pumps are possible but sizes are limited for rads and they cost a bit more.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZealotKi11er*
> 
> Anyone know when Enthoo Pro is coming out?


It's out and in stock

http://www.phanteksusa.com/products/phanteks-enthoo-pro


----------



## zoneuk

Lol, nope, its like having to choose between 2 cakes.both look good,
its about £10 ($15) difference in price..


----------



## SteelArt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> Ya see the part that has the cut out around the cable sockets, that's gonna hit the res bracket. Ya want the one that looks like this:


Thanks buddy. I am guna order "short" fullcover.


----------



## ZealotKi11er

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> Ya see the part that has the cut out around the cable sockets, that's gonna hit the res bracket. Ya want the one that looks like this:
> 
> 
> 
> Rather than like this
> 
> 
> 
> The backplate is fine
> You must be a husband
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Transcript from my last Husband's Anonymous meeting:
> 
> "Hello, my name is Jack and I am a husband ..... It's been 24 year's since my last decision."
> 
> The white is $30 more if that matters.
> 
> The white is "new and different" if that matters.
> 
> Getting matching white res / rads / pumps are possible but sizes are limited for rads and they cost a bit more.
> It's out and in stock
> 
> http://www.phanteksusa.com/products/phanteks-enthoo-pro


I want to pick it up locally in Canada.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZealotKi11er*
> 
> I want to pick it up locally in Canada.


Well you're a heeluva lot closer than I am and I have made the trip twice .... saved $20 in postage, spent $215 in gas and tolls









https://maps.yahoo.com/directions/?lat=43.29719840464635&lon=-78.66348266601562&bb=43.9829338529608%2C-80.20843505859375%2C42.611727616655834%2C-77.1185302734375&o=Toronto%2C%20ON%2C%20Canada&d=East%20Rochester%2C%20NY%2014445

http://www.frozencpu.com/cat/l3/g57/c613/s1928/list/p1/EK_Products-EK_Blocks_-_VGA_nVidia-EK_GTX_780Titan-Page1.html


----------



## zoneuk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteelArt*
> 
> Hello everyone,
> 
> got my Phanteks Enthoo Primo White some days ago.
> 
> 
> And I have ordered water cooling parts as well, except pump and reservoir. Can anybody recommend me a perfect tube reservoir or tube res/pump combo that I can fit without any additional drills and use two long graphic cards with no problems? I don't care how much it will cost. I just need the best and suitable tube res. Or Bay res is the best option?
> 
> Thanks in advance.


Hi could you add some more pics please, Im having a hard time choosing between black and white, what do you think of the finnish ?


----------



## SteelArt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zoneuk*
> 
> Hi could you add some more pics please, Im having a hard time choosing between black and white, what do you think of the finnish ?


Well, I am a HUGE fan of all white. I have white keyboard, mouse, tablet PC etc so it wasn't hard choice for me.

Finnish of white version is good, but a bit glossy. Looks great tho. Black version has better surface of front panel. My opinion is not objective since I don't like black cases at all.

More photos:


----------



## doyll

Looks like the finish on appliances!
Definitely shiny white.


----------



## rpjkw11

I, too, found the white a bit glossy for my tastes (I was expecting more of a matte finish), but at least white doesn't show fingerprints like black does. Overall, however, the white just looks awesome!


----------



## DaveLT

Excuse the reflection and the scratched plexiglass. Have to get it RMA'd


----------



## doyll

I like the white.








now that I got sunglasses


----------



## ZealotKi11er

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rpjkw11*
> 
> I, too, found the white a bit glossy for my tastes (I was expecting more of a matte finish), but at least white doesn't show fingerprints like black does. Overall, however, the white just looks awesome!


Yeah. If both are glossy which i hate white is the better one to get. Really don't like my Switch 810 Black Glossy.


----------



## DaveLT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZealotKi11er*
> 
> Yeah. If both are glossy which i hate white is the better one to get. Really don't like my Switch 810 Black Glossy.


Unlike the 810 glossy finish which is terrible the black finish on the enthoos feel like they are ... powdercoated. And yes I have a switch 810 glossy white and the paintjob is bad.


----------



## leafonthewind

Does any Enthoo Primo owner know if you can fit a 360 rad in the bottom without removing the hard drive cage?


----------



## Tweetbix

According to the video if the HDD cage is pushed all the way forward it can fit.


----------



## leafonthewind

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tweetbix*
> 
> According to the video if the HDD cage is pushed all the way forward it can fit.


Thanks







+Rep


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *leafonthewind*
> 
> Does any Enthoo Primo owner know if you can fit a 360 rad in the bottom without removing the hard drive cage?


Ya have about 16" (400mm) if ya put the HD cages in their forward position ... something like 370 with them in the back position


----------



## RnRollie

For most radiators, you have to count 40-50 mm extra for the (plenum) chambers, which makes most 360 rads between 400 & 420 mm long
Depending on the actual port arrangement, you might even need more, depending on the fittings you'll use.

so, its lucky that most manufacturers & webshops put the actual dimensions up.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

I have a 360 monsta in the bottom with both HDD cages in the forward position. It's tight, but it definitely fits.

I have the rad with the ports towards the front of the case instead of towards the rear. With the rad in that position I was able to fit a 90 deg rotary and mini valve for a drain port from one of the bottom ports on the Monsta that comes out in the space between the HDD cage and the MB tray panel.


----------



## Leeford

Hey i hate to add another fan header post, but I need some help.
My understanding is you hook up the sata power connector for the hub IF you are hooking it up to a PWM header (CPU_FAN)
But you DO NOT connect the power if you are hooking it up to a CHA_FAN

My Mobo has a CPU_FAN and CPU_OPT that are PWM
I am using a a H100i sensor on the CPU_FAN
So my question is this. If I connect the hub to the CPU_OPT I would assume I connect the power to the hub as well since this is a PWM header. However, I am not sure if the CPU_OPT is just an extension of what the CPU_FAN is doing and whether or not it will jive between what the corsair's link software does with runnign the pump off the CPU_FAN and what the module wants to do.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Leeford*
> 
> Hey i hate to add another fan header post, but I need some help.
> My understanding is you hook up the sata power connector for the hub IF you are hooking it up to a PWM header (CPU_FAN)
> But you DO NOT connect the power if you are hooking it up to a CHA_FAN
> 
> My Mobo has a CPU_FAN and CPU_OPT that are PWM
> I am using a a H100i sensor on the CPU_FAN
> So my question is this. If I connect the hub to the CPU_OPT I would assume I connect the power to the hub as well since this is a PWM header. However, I am not sure if the CPU_OPT is just an extension of what the CPU_FAN is doing and whether or not it will jive between what the corsair's link software does with runnign the pump off the CPU_FAN and what the module wants to do.


First statement is correct.

Most CPU_OPT headers are just a splitter built into motherboard resulting in same PWM signal coming from both headers, but there are a few that say they have different PWM signal / control. Only problem you may have is sending two rpm signals to PWM may confuse it. My guess is simple solution is to remove the rpm lead from hub plug lead, but have not tried this to be sure of results.

Edit:
Just tried it and it works as I described above.
FYI, the rpm lead is the grean wire between the white and black wire (PWM) going into the plug on mine. to remove the lead from plug push down on the silver tab showing in the side of plug. with something like the flat end of a straightened paper clip. Not sure what color your wires are.


----------



## DaveLT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Leeford*
> 
> Hey i hate to add another fan header post, but I need some help.
> My understanding is you hook up the sata power connector for the hub IF you are hooking it up to a PWM header (CPU_FAN)
> But you DO NOT connect the power if you are hooking it up to a CHA_FAN
> 
> My Mobo has a CPU_FAN and CPU_OPT that are PWM
> I am using a a H100i sensor on the CPU_FAN
> So my question is this. If I connect the hub to the CPU_OPT I would assume I connect the power to the hub as well since this is a PWM header. However, I am not sure if the CPU_OPT is just an extension of what the CPU_FAN is doing and whether or not it will jive between what the corsair's link software does with runnign the pump off the CPU_FAN and what the module wants to do.


Primo or Pro? If you are using the Pro DO NOT hook up the sata unless you want it to run at full blast. Looking at the enthoo primo it's a molex header not a sata header IIRC.


----------



## Leeford

My case is the PRO. The MOBO I am using is that new MSI Gaming 7 one with smart fan control. Its suppose to be able to control each fan separately in the bios, however, the manual shows the 2 GPU headers are differently wired than the other two fan headers (4th pin is NC on these)

One would think if you can control each one independently, I wouldn't need to worry about two RPM signals conflicting. Guess I will just have to see.


----------



## ZealotKi11er

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Leeford*
> 
> My case is the PRO. The MOBO I am using is that new MSI Gaming 7 one with smart fan control. Its suppose to be able to control each fan separately in the bios, however, the manual shows the 2 GPU headers are differently wired than the other two fan headers (4th pin is NC on these)
> 
> One would think if you can control each one independently, I wouldn't need to worry about two RPM signals conflicting. Guess I will just have to see.


The case will only use one header to control all fans. They will all get same signal.


----------



## DaveLT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Leeford*
> 
> My case is the PRO. The MOBO I am using is that new MSI Gaming 7 one with smart fan control. Its suppose to be able to control each fan separately in the bios, however, the manual shows the 2 GPU headers are differently wired than the other two fan headers (4th pin is NC on these)
> 
> One would think if you can control each one independently, I wouldn't need to worry about two RPM signals conflicting. Guess I will just have to see.


Don't plug in the SATA. DO NOT unless your intention is not to plug it into the mobo in which case it wouldn't even start.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaveLT*
> 
> Don't plug in the SATA. DO NOT unless your intention is not to plug it into the mobo in which case it wouldn't even start.


Hmmm?

That's not right. If that's the case for yours I'm pretty sure your hub is not working properly or is not connected to a PWM header. You should probably contact Phanteks support &/or post in their forums.

The Phanteks fan hub is only meant to be used with a PWM header from the mobo (typically CPU_FAN). It was not designed to be used with a voltage-controlled header like most CHA headers, although as Jack found out it does seem to also work with a voltage controlled header also but only if you do not connect the Molex or SATA connector to the PSU, and in that case you would be limited to the number of fans your mobo header can support, so then you're only really using it as a splitter. IIRC Jack found that connecting the molex connector when used with a voltage controlled header the fans would spin at full speed.

I don't know whether they changed the Phanteks fan hub much for the Pro or sold-separately models, but at least for the one that comes with the Enthoo Primo when it is used with a PWM header the hub allows up to 30 watts of 3-pin fans to be speed controlled from a PWM signal from the mobo, and the Molex connector is only supposed to be connected when you are connecting more fans (more watts/amps) than the mobo's PWM header is rated for. When used with a PWM header the Molex connector is not supposed to make fans spin at full speed or not even start.

Enthoo Primo fan hubs have a molex connector that comes with this sticker:


----------



## DaveLT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Hmmm?
> 
> The Phanteks fan hub is only meant to be used with a PWM header from the mobo (typically CPU_FAN). It was not designed to be used with a voltage-controlled header like most CHA headers, although as Jack found out it does seem to also work with a voltage controlled header also but only if you do not connect the Molex or SATA connector to the PSU, and in that case you would be limited to the number of fans your mobo header can support, so then you're only really using it as a splitter. IIRC Jack found that connecting the molex connector when used with a voltage controlled header the fans would spin at full speed.
> 
> I don't know whether they changed the Phanteks fan hub much for the Pro or sold-separately models, but at least for the one that comes with the Enthoo Primo when it is used with a PWM header the hub allows up to 30 watts of 3-pin fans to be speed controlled from a PWM signal from the mobo, and the Molex connector is only supposed to be connected when you are connecting more fans (more watts/amps) than the mobo's PWM header is rated for. When used with a PWM header the Molex connector is not supposed to make fans spin at full speed.
> 
> Enthoo Primo fan hubs have a molex connector that comes with this sticker:


PRO and PRIMO IS DIFFERENT. Well, all that said just to be proven wrong. I have a enthoo pro and i have gone through the fan hub manual on the enthoo pro a thousand times to check that mine's actually faulty.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

It might have been designed to have a different capacity / different number of ports or such, but I'll be REALLY surprised if the way the fan hub was designed to function has been changed very much if at all.

I simply will not believe the SATA or Molex connectors serve any different purpose between the Primo and Pro versions unless/until Brian the Phanteks rep posts here or on the Phanteks forum saying that's the case.


----------



## DaveLT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> It might have been designed to have a different capacity / different number of ports or such, but I'll be REALLY surprised if the way the fan hub was designed to function has been changed very much if at all.
> 
> I simply will not believe the SATA or Molex connectors serve any different purpose between the Primo and Pro versions unless/until Brian the Phanteks rep posts here or on the Phanteks forum saying that's the case.


I think you better check the enthoo pro manual before you try to correct me.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Oh I already had read the Pro manual the day Phanteks posted it, and yep, it says exactly what I was saying. Nothing there conflicts with anything I wrote. It sure as heck does not say anything like "_Don't plug in the SATA. DO NOT unless your intention is not to plug it into the mobo in which case it wouldn't even start._" because that's not how it works.

Yes, I'm saying you are wrong.


----------



## DaveLT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Oh I already had read the Pro manual the day Phanteks posted it, and yep, it says exactly what I was saying. Nothing there conflicts with anything I wrote. It sure as heck does not say anything like "_Don't plug in the SATA. DO NOT unless your intention is not to plug it into the mobo in which case it wouldn't even start._" because that's not how it works.
> 
> Yes, I'm saying you are wrong.


The 12V SATA cable CANNOT be used to power the PWM fan hub if ... Don't you get it? Are you kidding me?


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZealotKi11er*
> 
> The case will only use one header to control all fans. They will all get same signal.


The case comes with only one PCB. You can buy more. So you could use 1 PCB for each header you have if ya want to.

I have got two ..... as soon as part available will add 3rd.

CPU => Pump No. 1
CPU_OPT => Pump No. 1

CHA_1 => PCB_1 => (5) Case fans
CHA_2 => PCB_2 => (6) XT45-420 Rad Fans
CHA_3 => PCB_3 => (4) UT45-420 Rad Fans

The headers are likely 1 amp.....considering inrush current:

I wouldn't exceed 5/6 of that for 1200 rpm fans
I wouldn't exceed 4/6 of that for 1800 rpm fans

The Phanteks fans, 6 fans x 0.14 amp fans = 0.84 amps ....Considering the fact that they rarely break 850 rpm, I feel safe.....however, when I first set them up, two of the fan connectors were the Phanteks splitters so I had 8 fans on it and nuthin blew up.


----------



## DaveLT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> The case comes with only one PCB. You can buy more. So you could use 1 PCB for each header you have if ya want to.
> 
> I have got two ..... as soon as part available will add 3rd.
> 
> CPU => Pump No. 1
> CPU_OPT => Pump No. 1
> 
> CHA_1 => PCB_1 => (5) Case fans
> CHA_2 => PCB_2 => (6) XT45-420 Rad Fans
> CHA_3 => PCB_3 => (4) UT45-420 Rad Fans
> 
> The headers are likely 1 amp.....considering inrush current:
> 
> I wouldn't exceed 5/6 of that for 1200 rpm fans
> I wouldn't exceed 4/6 of that for 1800 rpm fans
> 
> The Phanteks fans, 6 fans x 0.14 amp fans = 0.84 watts ....Considering the fact that they rarely break 850 rpm, I feel safe.....however, when I first set them up, two of the fan connectors were the Phanteks splitters so I had 8 fans on it and nuthin blew up.


Headers btw, are 2amps capable actually. I have recieved fans that pull 3.24A through a single 4pin fan header before
0.84w is very far off 12W or even 24W.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaveLT*
> 
> Don't plug in the SATA. DO NOT unless your intention is not to plug it into the mobo in which case it wouldn't even start.


Please stop talking rubbish.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaveLT*
> 
> PRO and PRIMO IS DIFFERENT. Well, all that said just to be proven wrong. I have a enthoo pro and i have gone through the fan hub manual on the enthoo pro a thousand times to check that mine's actually faulty.


Tim to stop talking about things you know so little about.

As others are saying, redesigned some but still same basic hub.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaveLT*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> The case comes with only one PCB. You can buy more. So you could use 1 PCB for each header you have if ya want to.
> 
> I have got two ..... as soon as part available will add 3rd.
> 
> CPU => Pump No. 1
> CPU_OPT => Pump No. 1
> 
> CHA_1 => PCB_1 => (5) Case fans
> CHA_2 => PCB_2 => (6) XT45-420 Rad Fans
> CHA_3 => PCB_3 => (4) UT45-420 Rad Fans
> 
> The headers are likely 1 amp.....considering inrush current:
> 
> I wouldn't exceed 5/6 of that for 1200 rpm fans
> I wouldn't exceed 4/6 of that for 1800 rpm fans
> 
> The Phanteks fans, 6 fans x 0.14 amp fans = 0.84 watts ....Considering the fact that they rarely break 850 rpm, I feel safe.....however, when I first set them up, two of the fan connectors were the Phanteks splitters so I had 8 fans on it and nuthin blew up.
> 
> 
> 
> Headers btw, are 2amps capable actually. I have recieved fans that pull 3.24A through a single 4pin fan header before
> 0.84w is very far off 12W or even 24W.
Click to expand...

Again Dave, you do not know as much as you think you do.

0.84w is rated wattage of total fans, but that is not total start-up wattage, which can be much higher. A safety margin of at least 10% is needed which turns 8.4w into 9.24w. Some professionals allow 15-20% for safety makin 10.1w.

Some motherboard are have 1amp fan headers and some have more. For may it is hard to find out what they are rated.

I believe what Jack's says. Too bad the same can't be said for some of your statements.

Edit:
The image you posted of text from Enthoo Pro manual explains it all. Here it is again in easier to read text explaining how to use the PWM fan hub both with either fan header; PWM signal headers or non-PWM signal headers:

Phanteks PWM controlled 3-pin fan hub.
From Enthoo Pro manual, page 30

*18. PWM FAN HUB INSTALLATION*

The PWM hub functions optimally when modulated by a PWM signal from the motherboard, which will all the greatest control range. However, not all 4-pin motherboard connectors implement the PWM signal modulation.
*
Connecting the 4-pin to CPU_FAN*
For full PWM functionality, Phanteks' PWM hub requires users to connect the 4-pin connector to the "CPU_Fan" connector of the motherboard, because all motherboard manufacturers implements a PWM signal modulation on this connector. Connect the SATA 12V power to power the PWM hub. Not all motherboards have their CPU_Fan connector set on PWM signal modulation by default. Please consult your motherboard documentation for this matter.

*Connecting the 4-pin to other 4-pin header (besides the CPU_Fan)*
Other 4-pon connectors can be found on modern motherboards besides the "CPU_Fan" connector (e.g. "CPU_Fan2", "CHA_FAn", "OPT_Fan"), however not all motherboard manufacturers implement a true PWM signal modulation onto these connectors. These type of 4-pin connectors modulate the RPM by voltage, which has a smaller control range compared to modulation by true PWM signal.

The 12v SATA power cable can not be used to power the PWM hub if connecting to these types of 4-pin connectors, due to the interference with the RPM regulation by voltage (resulting in the fans running on full RPM). The PWM hub will draw it's power from the 4-pin connector, which is limited to a total device consuming 30W in total.

_Important Note:
1 motherboard connector can only read 1 RPM signal. Therefore, the motherboard will only read the RPM signal from1 device connected to FAN 1. The RPM from all other devices will be regulated according to FAN 1. Y-splitter should not be connected to FAN 1._


----------



## DaveLT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Please stop talking rubbish.
> Again Dave, you do not know as much as you think you do.
> 
> 0.84w is rated wattage of total fans, but that is not total start-up wattage, which can be much higher. A safety margin of at least 10% is needed which turns 8.4w into 9.24w. Some professionals allow 15-20% for safety makin 10.1w.
> 
> Some motherboard are have 1amp fan headers and some have more. For may it is hard to find out what they are rated.
> 
> I believe what Jack's says. Too bad the same can't be said for some of your statements.
> 
> Edit:
> The image you posted of text from Enthoo Pro manual explains it all. Here it is again in easier to read text explaining how to use the PWM fan hub both with either fan header; PWM signal headers or non-PWM signal headers:
> 
> Phanteks PWM controlled 3-pin fan hub.
> From Enthoo Pro manual, page 30
> 
> *18. PWM FAN HUB INSTALLATION*
> 
> The PWM hub functions optimally when modulated by a PWM signal from the motherboard, which will all the greatest control range. However, not all 4-pin motherboard connectors implement the PWM signal modulation.
> *
> Connecting the 4-pin to CPU_FAN*
> For full PWM functionality, Phanteks' PWM hub requires users to connect the 4-pin connector to the "CPU_Fan" connector of the motherboard, because all motherboard manufacturers implements a PWM signal modulation on this connector. Connect the SATA 12V power to power the PWM hub. Not all motherboards have their CPU_Fan connector set on PWM signal modulation by default. Please consult your motherboard documentation for this matter.
> 
> *Connecting the 4-pin to other 4-pin header (besides the CPU_Fan)*
> Other 4-pon connectors can be found on modern motherboards besides the "CPU_Fan" connector (e.g. "CPU_Fan2", "CHA_FAn", "OPT_Fan"), however not all motherboard manufacturers implement a true PWM signal modulation onto these connectors. These type of 4-pin connectors modulate the RPM by voltage, which has a smaller control range compared to modulation by true PWM signal.
> 
> The 12v SATA power cable can not be used to power the PWM hub if connecting to these types of 4-pin connectors, due to the interference with the RPM regulation by voltage (resulting in the fans running on full RPM). The PWM hub will draw it's power from the 4-pin connector, which is limited to a total device consuming 30W in total.
> 
> _Important Note:
> 1 motherboard connector can only read 1 RPM signal. Therefore, the motherboard will only read the RPM signal from1 device connected to FAN 1. The RPM from all other devices will be regulated according to FAN 1. Y-splitter should not be connected to FAN 1._












I only have 1 comment for you : What are you on about? I test my fans on a current clamped oscilloscope and they DON'T PULL 10x their rated wattage on startup. Hell if you check a delta fan datasheet their MAX current is their startup power usage

DO I really have to bold this part for you?
*Connecting the 4-pin to other 4-pin header (besides the CPU_Fan)
Other 4-pon connectors can be found on modern motherboards besides the "CPU_Fan" connector (e.g. "CPU_Fan2", "CHA_FAn", "OPT_Fan"), however not all motherboard manufacturers implement a true PWM signal modulation onto these connectors. These type of 4-pin connectors modulate the RPM by voltage, which has a smaller control range compared to modulation by true PWM signal.
The 12v SATA power cable can not be used to power the PWM hub if connecting to these types of 4-pin connectors, due to the interference with the RPM regulation by voltage (resulting in the fans running on full RPM). The PWM hub will draw it's power from the 4-pin connector, which is limited to a total device consuming 30W in total.
*
What JACK SAID was that the SATA is used to power the hub and you need it with the PWM hub all the time like the enthoo primo, which is FALSE.

You know what I find funny? Joining this club is a mistake because you're the one who thinks you know everything when you are now saying i'm mostly wrong by saying the SATA will just make the fans run at full speed - And it does









Another word for you : If you think I don't my stuff then I really don't deserve to be in electronics engineering. Which I AM.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaveLT*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I only have 1 comment for you : What are you on about? I test my fans on a current clamped oscilloscope and they DON'T PULL 10x their rated wattage on startup. Hell if you check a delta fan datasheet their MAX current is their startup power usage
> 
> DO I really have to bold this part for you?
> *Connecting the 4-pin to other 4-pin header (besides the CPU_Fan)
> Other 4-pon connectors can be found on modern motherboards besides the "CPU_Fan" connector (e.g. "CPU_Fan2", "CHA_FAn", "OPT_Fan"), however not all motherboard manufacturers implement a true PWM signal modulation onto these connectors. These type of 4-pin connectors modulate the RPM by voltage, which has a smaller control range compared to modulation by true PWM signal.
> The 12v SATA power cable can not be used to power the PWM hub if connecting to these types of 4-pin connectors, due to the interference with the RPM regulation by voltage (resulting in the fans running on full RPM). The PWM hub will draw it's power from the 4-pin connector, which is limited to a total device consuming 30W in total.
> *
> What JACK SAID was that the SATA is used to power the hub and you need it with the PWM hub all the time like the enthoo primo, which is FALSE.
> 
> You know what I find funny? Joining this club is a mistake because you're the one who thinks you know everything when you are now saying i'm mostly wrong by saying the SATA will just make the fans run at full speed - And it does
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Another word for you : If you think Idon't my stuff then I really don't deserve to be in electronics engineering. Which I AM.



10x is from your only.









Most of us do not have or use Delta fans.








Jack has far more credibility here than you.








Than leave. Want me to hold the door for you?








Yes, with SATA connected and no PWM signal from motherboard fan connected to the PWM hub do run full speed.








Maybe you shouldn't be.







I sure wouldn't want someone doing my electronics work who says fan headers are 2 amp!


----------



## DaveLT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> 
> 10x is from your only.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Most of us do not have or use Delta fans.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Jack has far more credibility here than you.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Than leave. Want me to hold the door for you?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yes, with SATA connected and no PWM signal from motherboard fan connected to the PWM hub do run full speed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Maybe you shouldn't be.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I sure wouldn't want someone doing my electronics work who says fan headers are 2 amp!


What?
My delta fans aren't all made up of extremely high speed fans. Most of them are 1500-2000.
Using cred as a marker now eh?
I already said that before
MOLEX stated that THE fan pins are 5(!)amp. Whether it's 2amp or not it depends on mobo, and ATX SPEC MANDATES THAT 2AMPS SURGE CURRENT IS THE MINIMUM. Most fans ARE rated for startup current.
http://www.silentpcreview.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=11238&view=next
There is no standard but I have definitely ran half a amp worth of fans on any mobos I own, be it biostar gigabyte or ASUS. and even MSI.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaveLT*
> 
> What?
> My delta fans aren't all made up of extremely high speed fans. Most of them are 1500-2000.
> I already said that before
> MOLEX stated that THE fan pins are 5(!)amp. Whether it's 2amp or not it depends on mobo, and ATX SPEC MANDATES THAT 2AMPS SURGE CURRENT IS THE MINIMUM.


Read the green in post I quoted.
Your Delta fans are irrelevant.
Than quit contradicting what Jack says.
Pin rating means nothing. The fan headed rating is based on what the traces & components on motherboard can handle safely.
Please show me the document supporting that statement.


----------



## DaveLT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Read the green in post I quoted.
> Your Delta fans are irrelevant.
> Than quit contradicting what Jack says.
> Pin rating means nothing. The fan headed rating is based on what the traces & components on motherboard can handle safely.
> Please show me the document supporting that statement.


Okay then rebel.
Do you know that the fan traces on a mobo isn't exactly the thinnest trace right? And their power usually comes off the 24pin's 12V line and not much else if it's not hooked to a fan control chip
If your +10% statement is right then I wouldn't be able run a PFC1212DE on my 30W/ch fan controller without burning it out. Which it DIDN'T when i tested it the whole night.

Also, USING CRED AS A MARKER. What a child you are, to be honest.


----------



## Accursed Entity

I'm too excited for the new Enthoo Mini XL, for me the search for a good mATX board starts now!


----------



## Ksireaper

I want a full tower EVOLV. That is one sexy case.


----------



## doyll

Micro ATX are looking better all the time.

Enthoo Mini XL is interesting idea. Can definitely use thick radiators in it!

Love the looks of Enthoo Evolv.


----------



## rpjkw11

I can't use another case without ditching one of my Primos. And that just ain't gonna happen. I still want to see the Luxe released, though I have absolutely no need for a third computer, so that ain't gonna happen either. I'm really pushing the "have-a-need-for" a second PC, but I want to use my white Primo. Two desk top computers are one too many, but I have really developed a fondness for the Primo, especially being an Airhead and I can't see myself selling even the black one. I have practically a clear open "channel" for air circulation from the front to the rear and top exhausts. The only interference is the GTX 780Ti video card. HW monitor indicates temps inside are more than acceptable.

Thanks for the heads-up on the new Evolv and Mini XL, guys! The Mini is too small for me to ever consider and the Evolv is, well, the Evolv. I'm not sure how I feel about the looks, but the mostly aluminum construction is a big deal. I can't tell, but the Evolv looks to be a mid-tower.


----------



## DaveLT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rpjkw11*
> 
> I can't use another case without ditching one of my Primos. And that just ain't gonna happen. I still want to see the Luxe released, though I have absolutely no need for a third computer, so that ain't gonna happen either. I'm really pushing the "have-a-need-for" a second PC, but I want to use my white Primo. Two desk top computers are one too many, but I have really developed a fondness for the Primo, especially being an Airhead and I can't see myself selling even the black one. I have practically a clear open "channel" for air circulation from the front to the rear and top exhausts. The only interference is the GTX 780Ti video card. HW monitor indicates temps inside are more than acceptable.
> 
> Thanks for the heads-up on the new Evolv and Mini XL, guys! The Mini is too small for me to ever consider and the Evolv is, well, the Evolv. I'm not sure how I feel about the looks, but the mostly aluminum construction is a big deal. I can't tell, but the Evolv looks to be a mid-tower.


How is the mini too small? It's just 70mm shallower than the pro







and of the same height.


----------



## rpjkw11

Dave, I have no idea of the case dimensions, but I said that for two reasons: "Mini" generally implies a small case (sometimes very small) and I prefer larger cases. The Luxe would be the smallest case I'd consider buying.

I'm surprised, however, the mini is as large as it is.


----------



## doyll

*Grabbed some screen shots of new mATX Phanteks Enthoo Evolv and Enthoo Mini XL cases from videos*


*Phanteks Enthoo Evolv*
    

Phanteks Enthoo Mini XL


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rpjkw11*
> 
> Dave, I have no idea of the case dimensions, but I said that for two reasons: "Mini" generally implies a small case (sometimes very small) and I prefer larger cases. The Luxe would be the smallest case I'd consider buying.
> 
> I'm surprised, however, the mini is as large as it is.


I think "Mini" is about motherboard size and "XL" is about 'extra large' case for the 'mini' motherboards.








Both of these cases are for 'compact' motherboards.


----------



## Accursed Entity

That Evolv case thou...


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaveLT*
> 
> Headers btw, are 2amps capable actually. I have recieved fans that pull 3.24A through a single 4pin fan header before
> 0.84w is very far off 12W or even 24W.


Back in the day, the Asus Rampage II and II had 2 amp rated headers. According to Asus, all the boards I have are now rated at 1 amp. The data has been posted on Asus RoG Forums. I imagine there are still some boards out there that are rated at 2 amps but, unless Asus Tech Support is wrong, the RoG Maximus VI Formula and RoG Hero are rated at 1 amp. Not sure about your MoBo and while I think you mentioned it some pages back, I don't remember what it was. I'd encourage you to list your components in ya sig, as that would allow you to get more specific answers.

Back in the day I saw 5,000 rpm fans busting 3 amps...... Guess they were good for levitating your case of the desk as I never could see a practical reason for them. The goal of water Cooling has always been 3 fold...... 1) reduce temps, 2) reduce noise and 3) improve aesthetics.

1. Is pretty much limited by the current architecture. Outside of AIOs, a properly designed water cooling system has no use for such fans as you will hit voltage limits long before you hit temp limits. Delidding, the automatic go to with Ivy Bridge, has been much less popular with Haswell for this reason.

2. Given the above, thermal control has taken somewhat of a back seat to noise reduction as it is something WC can do much about. If ya just doing it for thermals, hard to justify $1,000 of water cooling equipment for a 0.1 Ghz increase in performance.

0.84 amps was a "brain fart" ....

*Obviously, 0.14 amps x 6 fans = 0.84 amps* not 0.84 watts

0.84 amps x 12 volts = 10.08 watts which is in fact quite close to 12 watts and that doesn't include consideration of "inrush current". This is the extra load put on a motor to overcome the inertia of starting a non moving object as well as what is better described in the link below.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Inrush_current
Quote:


> When an electric motor, DC or AC, is first energised, the rotor is not moving, and a current equivalent to the stalled current will flow, reducing as the motor picks up speed and develops a back EMF to oppose the supply. AC induction motors behave as transformers with a shorted secondary, until the rotor begins to move, while brushed motors present essentially the winding resistance. The duration of the starting transient is less if the mechanical load on the motor is relieved until it has picked up speed.


Measuring DC Inrush current is very complicated because " because these measurements require complex setups with multiple pieces of equipment at minimum". In the course of designing some cabinet ventilation systems for large industrial control panels some years back, the manufacturer's rep suggested the following CB ratings / fuse ratings for the fan circuits.

Don't let amps exceed 5/6 of the CB / fuse rating for 1200 rpm fans
Don't let amps exceed 4/6 of the CB / fuse rating for 1800 rpm fans
Don't let amps exceed 3/6 of the CB / fuse rating for 2400 rpm fans and up

The actual inrush current is actually several order of magnitude above that .... even on AC motors the initial inrush is 6 or even 10 times running current. This does not trip CB . fuses as they are designed to ignore the transient spike but turning on a 14 amp motor on a 15 amp circuit normally will blow the fuse / CB. On your typical industrial plant CB, you can adjust the time period during which the CB monitors inrush current. Making it longer reduces the likelihood of a trip during inrush but also increase potential damage to the motor from shorts or lightning strikes if ya make it too long.. Of course, MoBos are not so equipped.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaveLT*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I only have 1 comment for you : What are you on about? I test my fans on a current clamped oscilloscope and they DON'T PULL 10x their rated wattage on startup. Hell if you check a delta fan datasheet their MAX current is their startup power usage


No, inrush current is never published on a cut sheet. Input Power is, bit not inrush current. The Phanteks fans list 1.8 watts "Input Power"; this does not account for inrush current. What it accounts for is the period after the inrush current period is over and accounts for the fan acceleration. A good analogy is, look at your mpg meter in the car if you have one..... inrush current is the instantaneous mpg consumption in the instant after you mash the accelerator (< 1.0 mpg), input power is equivalent to the mpg rate while you are accelerating from 15 - 55..... current rating is equivalent to steady state driving at 55 mph..... that example exaggerates things to make a point and what we actually see with fans is much less as we taking ounces versus tons.

Read the link above and this one. You equipment is inadequate to measure inrush current, the length of which is in microseconds.

http://www.electronicproducts.com/Test_and_Measurement/Benchtop_Rack_Mountable/Characterizing_dc_inrush_currents.aspx
Quote:


> What JACK SAID was that the SATA is used to power the hub and you need it with the PWM hub all the time like the enthoo primo, which is FALSE.


No. Actually I said, more times than I can count, the exact opposite. I have been running without any 12v power to my multiple hubs for 7 months. I have explained to users in detail more times than I can't count that **if you use the 12v power connector on anything but the CPU PWM headers (on 99.8% of MoBos out there), ..... SATA or molex makes no difference ..... you lose voltage control of the fan speed. The Phanteks is not a really "PWM Hub" in that it is not limited to PWM. I have tested the Phanteks Hub and found it works in three ways:

1. With a true PWM Header, the Phanteks Hub will power a number of 3 pin Phanteks SP140 fans using PWM control scheme w/o the need of an auxillary power connector.

2. With a true PWM Header, the Phanteks Hub will power a greater number of 3 pin Phanteks SP140 fans using PWM control scheme w/o the need of an auxillary power connector.

3. With a plain ole Chassis, System or Optional Header (less than 1% of boards have PWM here, none that I have seen in the last 3 years), whether it be 3 or 4 pin, the Phanteks Hub will power a number of 3 pin Phanteks SP140 fans using a variable voltage control scheme. It should be completely obvious that *if you are controlling fan speed via a variable voltage signal, the moment you connect an auxillary power source with a constant voltage power source, speed control goes bye bye*. The signal from any cable (SATA or Molex makes absolutely no difference so I don't see why this keeps being brought up as somehow significant) connected to the PSU disables, prevents, stops, elimiantes any possibility of speed control

The number of Phanteks Sp140s fans you can safely connect without worry is 6 on a 1 amp header is 6 x 0.14 = 0.84. the amount generally considered safe is 1.0 amps x 5/6 = 0.83 amps .... close enough. Can you connect more, probably so but that will depend upon the quality of your MoBo. I have seen MoBo fan headers before ....usually when someone connected a 5,000 rpm Delta fan but even with twin 0.6 amp fans on a two fan CPU cooler.


----------



## GOLDDUBBY

So, how is things here in the pwm hub thread ?

That evolv is looking absolutely incredible! I need one of those for a dedicated steam build!!


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Yeah the fan headers on my ASUS Rampage IV Black Edition and MSI Z87 XPower boards are all 1 amp / 12w rated.

I just received confirmation from Phanteks support that the fan hubs in the Primo and the Pro work exactly the same. The only thing that changed about them is the molex / sata connector, either of which is to be used for additional power capability when you are connecting more fans than your PWM mobo header supports by itself. With the molex / sata connected, the hub is capable of providing PWM control to 30 watts of 3-pin (non-pwm) fans.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Yeah the fan headers on my ASUS Rampage IV Black Edition and MSI Z87 XPower boards are all 1 amp / 12w rated.
> 
> I just received confirmation from Phanteks support that the fan hubs in the Primo and the Pro work exactly the same. The only thing that changed about them is the molex / sata connector, either of which is to be used for additional power capability when you are connecting more fans than your PWM mobo header supports by itself. With the molex / sata connected, the hub is capable of providing PWM control to 30 watts of 3-pin (non-pwm) fans.


I am lost on that one.....I just can't understand the logic there..... whether the power comes from the PSU to the Hub thru a molex cable or it comes from a SATA cable...... might as well argue about the color of the wire insulation being significant.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> I am lost on that one.....I just can't understand the logic there..... whether the power comes from the PSU to the Hub thru a molex cable or it comes from a SATA cable...... might as well argue about the color of the wire insulation being significant.


Not sure what you are 'lost' about. What I was checking with Phanteks support was in regards to Dave's claims on the last few pages:
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaveLT*
> 
> Primo or Pro? If you are using the Pro DO NOT hook up the sata unless you want it to run at full blast. Looking at the enthoo primo it's a molex header not a sata header IIRC.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaveLT*
> 
> Don't plug in the SATA. DO NOT unless your intention is not to plug it into the mobo in which case it wouldn't even start.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaveLT*
> 
> The 12V SATA cable CANNOT be used to power the PWM fan hub if ... Don't you get it? Are you kidding me?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaveLT*
> 
> PRO and PRIMO IS DIFFERENT. [...].


All of those statements by Dave are incorrect.

The Primo and the Pro fan hubs are the same, except the Primo's has a Molex and the Pro's has a SATA connector for providing additional power if you are using more fans (more watts / amps) than your mobo's PWM header supports by itself.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Not sure what you are 'lost' about. What I was checking with Phanteks support was in regards to Dave's claims on the last few pages:


Umm..... I was agreeing with you







. It's the position you were arguing against I just don't get. The way the two hubs work is exactly the same. The type of cable bringing power to the hub (whether SATA or Molex) is meaningless. The only significant part of the equation is that it is CONSTANT voltage. Constant voltage on a variable voltage fan means that it will ONLY spin at the speed associated with that variable voltage.
Quote:


> All of those statements by Dave are incorrect.
> 
> The Primo and the Pro fan hubs are the same, except the Primo's has a Molex and the Pro's has a SATA connector for providing additional power if you are using more fans (more watts / amps) than your mobo's PWM header supports by itself.


I thought that is what I just got done saying in the post 2 before yours







. I simply am lost regarding Dave's position that the type of cable supplying the power is somehow significant .... to me it's like saying one does it with a red sleeved cable and the other does it with a blue sleeved cable.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> I think "Mini" is about motherboard size and "XL" is about 'extra large' case for the 'mini' motherboards.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Both of these cases are for 'compact' motherboards.


It looks like they took a lot of our suggestions for the primo and put them in there.... front fan filter and removable "phanteks logo panel" were two at the top of my list..... I hope these get into Primo II


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> All of those statements by Dave are incorrect.
> 
> The Primo and the Pro fan hubs are the same, except the Primo's has a Molex and the Pro's has a SATA connector for providing additional power if you are using more fans (more watts / amps) than your mobo's PWM header supports by itself.


Thanks for verifying what I already verified, but DaveLT does not believe.


----------



## SteelArt

So guys, if I am guna to use NINE 3-pin fans connected to Primo's PWM hub, then I need to use additional Molex connector to provide additional power, right? And what if I will not connect it?


----------



## doyll

What is the power rating of the fans?


----------



## giltyler

Phanteks Enthoo Primo

I just saw this case fir the first time today and WOW built to water cool and then some


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteelArt*
> 
> So guys, if I am guna to use NINE 3-pin fans connected to Primo's PWM hub, then I need to use additional Molex connector to provide additional power, right? And what if I will not connect it?


What header are you going to connect them to ?

If PWM header (CPU or CPU_OPT), the conservative engineer in me says no more than 6 Phanteks SP140s (0.14 amps) ..... the bonehead in me who when I connected it up, forgot that two of the leaders were the phanteks installed splitters and I ran 8 for a cupla days (1.12 amps on a 1 amp header) and nuthin blew up. But remember I'm using the Asus FanXpert2 which slowly ramps up the speed and my fans never break 850 rm s never saw the full 0.114 amps.

If it were me, I'd hook up the 12v power lead from 7 on up.

Now if ya using CHA headers which are not PWM no matter whether they have 4 pins or 3 pins, they are still variable voltage and w/ variable voltage speed control will not work if ya connect either a STA power lead or a Molex power lead.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *giltyler*
> 
> Phanteks Enthoo Primo
> 
> I just saw this case fir the first time today and WOW built to water cool and then some


Well that's a tease ...... tell us, tell us ....what ya gonna put in it.

How bout 4 of the new MSI 780 Ti Lightnings


----------



## giltyler

"Well that's a tease ...... tell us, tell us ....what ya gonna put in it.

How bout 4 of the new MSI 780 Ti Lightings "

Wishful thinking.
It will be at least a year before I do a full system replacement.


----------



## SteelArt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> What header are you going to connect them to ?


I am going to connect 4-pin connector from PWM Hub to CPU_FAN on my MB (Asus Maximus V Gene) and I am going to connect 9 fans to PWM Hub (3 x 140mm Phanteks SP140s and 6 x 120mm Corsair SP120).


----------



## doyll

Hub rated 30w. Allow 10% safety margin = 27w

6x SP120 = 13w
4x . . . . = . . 5w
Total fans = 18w

You have 9w for future use.


----------



## SteelArt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> You have 9w for future use.


So I don't have to connect additional power.

Thanks a lot.


----------



## doyll

I said fan hub is rated 30w, not motherboard header.









You do need to attach additional power.

_Phanteks PWM fan hub rating 30w with power lead plugged to PSU_

Motherboard fan headers are usually 1a / 12w.
10% safety margin makes it 10.8w.
You have 18w fan load.
Fan load is 7.2w more than motherboard header can safely run.

_Powered_ fan hub is safe to run them.. and 9w more.


----------



## SteelArt

Ah, I got it. Thanks a lot *doyll*


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteelArt*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *SteelArt*
> 
> I am going to connect 4-pin connector from PWM Hub to CPU_FAN on my MB (Asus Maximus V Gene) and I am going to connect 9 fans to PWM Hub (3 x 140mm Phanteks SP140s and 6 x 120mm Corsair SP120).
> 
> 
> 
> Hub rated 30w. Allow 10% safety margin = 27w
> 
> 6x SP120 = 13w
> 4x . . . . = . . 5w
> Total fans = 18w
> 
> You have 9w for future use.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> So I don't have to connect additional power.
> 
> Thanks a lot.
Click to expand...

Doyll was referring to the hub's 30 watt total capacity. Whether or not you need to connect the hub's Molex or SATA connector to your PSU depends on your mobo's PWM header's rated capacity.

From the Maximus V GENE manual:
Quote:


> The CPU_FAN connector supports the CPU fan of maximum 1A (12 W) fan power.


Amps = Watts / Volts so 18W / 12V = 1.5 Amps.

You DO need to connect the molex/sata for additional power.









Edit: ninja'd.


----------



## SteelArt

*Unicr0nhunter*, thank you too!


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteelArt*
> 
> So I don't have to connect additional power.
> 
> Thanks a lot.


From my post 3985
Quote:


> If it were me, I'd hook up the 12v power lead from 7 on up.


1 thru 6 fans = no PSU connection required with 0.14 amp fans
7 thru 14v fans = Hub good with PSU cable connected

Plus ^^ What Doyll said

The safety margin remember is dependent upon fan speed as more torque is required to get em going.

So with Phanteks 1200 rpm fans .... I feel safe at 83% of load but Doyll's 90% I am sure would be just fine as some conservatism is build into the MoBo also. Also don
't forget if ya using software control, it generally includes a ramp up feature. I had 1.12 amps on there for cupla days and no smoke









But not recalling what other fans you are using but the acceptable % of load should decrease/ safety margin increase with higher rpms


----------



## doyll

Thanks!
I have my hub plugged into PSU all the time.. be it running 1 fan (master rpm), or a bunch of fans. Never had a problem..

Edit:
Have always used 10% as a ball park safety margin. Jack is right, higher rpm fans pull more at strartup than lower rpm fan. They are also higher amp rated fans.









The fact that it is pulse load also helps. 12v pulses don't heat leads / traces as much as steady 12v power does either.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Thanks!
> I have my hub plugged into PSU all the time.. be it running 1 fan (master rpm), or a bunch of fans. Never had a problem..


It shouldn't be ..... on a PWM fan header. Phanteks says don't connect unless ya need it but I dunno why

But unfortunately I do have a problem







.... fans run at full speed on VV (variable voltage) headers.

For those wondering why (as Doyll knows why....)

With the CPU headers already being occupied by the two pumps on Curve 1

CHA_1 controls my case fans via curve 2
CHA_2 controls my XT45-420 fans via curve 3
CHA_3 controls my UT60-280 fans via curve 4

Well that's the plan if I can ever get my hands on a 3rd hub ....seems "end of May" ETA goes in the box with "end of March", "End of January" and "end of 2013"









Right now haven't installed the pull fans so have the push fans on both rads on Curve 2 / PCB2


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> It shouldn't be ..... on a PWM fan header. Phanteks says don't connect unless ya need it but I dunno why
> 
> *But unfortunately I do have a problem
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .... fans run at full speed on VV (variable voltage) headers.*
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> For those wondering why (as Doyll knows why....)
> 
> With the CPU headers already being occupied by the two pumps on Curve 1
> 
> CHA_1 controls my case fans via curve 2
> CHA_2 controls my XT45-420 fans via curve 3
> CHA_3 controls my UT60-280 fans via curve 4
> 
> Well that's the plan if I can ever get my hands on a 3rd hub ....seems "end of May" ETA goes in the box with "end of March", "End of January" and "end of 2013"
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Right now haven't installed the pull fans so have the push fans on both rads on Curve 2 / PCB2


Doesn't make much sense to me why you would use the hub on a non-PWM header, as it was not designed to be used like that. Essentially then you are only using it as a splitter. Seems to me you'd be a lot better served to just use splitter cables or a splitter pcb on your CHA headers instead.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Doesn't make much sense to me why you would use the hub on a non-PWM header, as it was not designed to be used like that. Essentially then you are only using it as a splitter. Seems to me you'd be a lot better served to just use splitter cables or a splitter pcb on your CHA headers instead.


Must be your wobbly eyes.. or maybe it's the 6 legs.. or lack of unicorrns...









Jack is using the hub like a fan splitter for 3-pin fans.









Enthoo Pro manuals says
Quote:


> Connecting the 4-pin to other 4-pin header (besides the CPU_Fan)
> Other 4-pon connectors can be found on modern motherboards besides the "CPU_Fan" connector (e.g. "CPU_Fan2", "CHA_FAn", "OPT_Fan"), however not all motherboard manufacturers implement a true PWM signal modulation onto these connectors. These type of 4-pin connectors modulate the RPM by voltage, which has a smaller control range compared to modulation by true PWM signal.
> 
> The 12v SATA power cable can not be used to power the PWM hub if connecting to these types of 4-pin connectors, due to the interference with the RPM regulation by voltage (resulting in the fans running on full RPM). The PWM hub will draw it's power from the 4-pin connector, which is limited to a total device consuming 30W in total.


I interpret that to mean the fan hub can be used without 12v power lead on voltage regulated motherboard fan headers. But obviously only to the 1w limit of most motherboard fan headers, not the 30w the fan hub is rated at.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Doesn't make much sense to me why you would use the hub on a non-PWM header, as it was not designed to be used like that. Essentially then you are only using it as a splitter. Seems to me you'd be a lot better served to just use splitter cables or a splitter pcb on your CHA headers instead.


I can think of four right off the bat.

1. Same reason that ModMyToys makes a whole line of these things .... splitter cables are disorganized, messy and sometimes unreliable..... I have two custom sleeved sets from FrozenCPU that never worked. They offered to replace or refund but shipping cost more than the cables

2. It's dual function unit....works with both PWM and VV which makes it far superior from a re-useability standpoint.

3. I can't speak to how it was designed, I wasn't there. But Phanteks is not poo-pooing using in VV in any way. Phanteks designed it to be able to spin 3 pin fans w/ PWM, that make it unique. At the time they designed it, fan hub control via VV was already on the market. As far as I can tell, there was no intention to make it not work with VV. Being able to use PhysX / G-Sync is unique to nVidia just as the PWM => 3 pin control feature is unique to the Phanteks hub. nVidia designed PhysX / G-Sync to work with PhysX equipped games / G-Sync equipped monitors, they didn't design the cards to be unusable with non PhysX games nor to be unusable on non G-Sync monitors. This feature is described in detail in the Enthoo Pro manual.

But here's the Big one.....

4. Having one single fan curve controlling every single fans in my box is something I find objectionable on a very basic level. Why invest all that money in a high end board with such features to have your cooling equivalent to a $90 budget board. Using the 4 water temp sensors and 2 air temp sensors, I have found that the case fans at higher speeds are far less effective at higher rpms than the rad fans. In short:

Instead of being stuck with this:

One fan curve controls the speed of every cooling device in the PC

you can have:

Fan Curve No. 1 control the two pumps via CPU and CPU OPT
Fan Curve No. 2 control the (5) Case Fans on a very gentle curve on Hub No.1
Fan Curve No. 3 control the (6) XT45 Top Rad Fans on a bit steeper curve on Hub No.2
Fan Curve No. 4 control the (4) UT60 Bot Fans on the steepest curve on Hub No.3

The XT45 fans are a bit more audible than on the UT60 so that gives me the ability spin those bottom fans a bit more aggressively without breaking the point where they are in any way audible.

Now take that two a 2 loop system and I'd call it "unwise" to not use the VV headers ....
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Must be your wobbly eyes.. or maybe it's the 6 legs.. or lack of unicorrns...


Uni and I belong to the same church .....

http://www.venganza.org/

He may have been recently been touched by one of the FSM's "noodely appendages" and was blinded by the glory of the FSM


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

I see you both pretty much just repeated exactly what I was saying, except I interpret the 'Pro' manual (which is an improvement over the Primo's) as confirming it was not designed to be used with a vv header, which is why under the heading "Connecting the 4-pin to other 4-pin header (besides the CPU_Fan)" it only says most of those headers on mobos other than CPU_FAN are not PWM and explains why PWM is better, and then warns you why it's bad if you connect the sata connector if used with a vv header.

And you both echoed my point that Jack is then only using the Phanteks hub as a splitter when connected to a vv header, which is what doesn't make much sense to me to complain about the long wait for them to become available so he can get a third one when there are so many PCBs or splitter cables available all of which actually were designed to be used that way. Don't know what Phanteks is going to be charging for their hub but I'll venture to say that it's a safe bet it's going to cost more than an NZXT Grid fan hub (which look/perform great btw) or ModMyToys PCB or a fan splitter cable

BTW, the Darkside and ModRight brands make GREAT high quality splitter cables, depending on if you want sleeved or non-sleeved respectfully. I've used many many of either without ever having a single failure (I can't say that about Phobya splitter cables). They also both have only the rpm wire going to a single fan so the tach reads correctly with mobo / fan controllers (and I can't say that about Bitfenix splitter cables - they had the rpm wire going to all the connectors) and they have common sense variable lengths optimized for use with radiator fans. Good news is FCPU now stocks the Darkside sleeved splitter cables so I don't have to order them from Dazmode in Canada any more.

To be honest I only use cables, whether they be fan, psu, or otherwise - in my builds that I made and sleeved myself, but just as I do with the PSU cables that come with the power supply just until I get around to making my own custom-length sleeved cables, I have also temporarily relied on a few sets of ModRight splitter cables that I have had for a while now just for temporary use with my fans just until I get around to making my own, and on top of that I have used the Darkside and Modright cables now in 5 builds for friends / family. My nephew's most recent computer alone currently has 4 sets of Darkside splitter cables in it, two of which were cannibalized from his previous rig, and his dad (my brother) has two caselabs builds, an S5 and a STH10, with almost a dozen Darkside splitters between them.


----------



## ocCuS

Here are the videos about the new cases from Phanteks. The Evolv is really sexy but the most impressive is the flexibility of the enthoo mini xl. Phanteks is the only manufacturer, who "WOWs" me in the last couple of time.

Mini XL:





Evolv:


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> I see you both pretty much just repeated exactly what I was saying, except I interpret the 'Pro' manual (which is an improvement over the Primo's) as confirming it was not designed....


I'm not buying it .... to my reading, until seeing the manual quote, you were diametrically opposed and staunch in your position that Phanteks designed the unit with the specific and sole targeted intent that it be used for PWM only. That's was a supposition and interpretation on your part and it would appear that your stance has since softened after reading the manual.

The way I see it.... and what I took from a e-mail and public discussions on the topic back in November .... Phanteks design approach is based upon the goal of improving upon common items in the marketplace both with their products (CPU coolers, Cases) and their accessory components (fans, case components). With Swiftech having PWM only and ModMyToys having VV only, Phanteks had an opportunity to again shake up the marketplace by making a single product that could provide both PWM and VV control. If they designed it *ONLY* for PWM as you seem to have inferred, they would under no circumstances be instructing users how to use the VV feature in the manual.

Why do enthusiast motherboards have 4, 6, 8 or more fan headers ? Why does FanXpert2 provide the ability to use 4 separate cooling curves ? Why would an enthusiast invest in a Motherboard capable of these features and them gimp themselves by using a controller that is incapable of using these features ? With people having an obvious need or desire to use these features, to control CPU fans, Case fans, radiator fans, pumps, whatever independently of one another, and Motherboard manufacturers providing the features to do so ..... why would Phanteks purposely limit their market to satisfying just one option ?

Most importantly ...why did the Phanteks assume the cost of fabricating the 3 separate PCB mountings if, as you surmise, they "designed the PCB to only use PWM" and thereby limit it's use to just controlling 1 block of fans which will all run at the same speed. None of this makes any sense.
Quote:


> And you both echoed my point that Jack is then only using the Phanteks hub as a splitter when connected to a vv header, which is what doesn't make much sense to me to complain about the long wait for them to become available so he can get a third one when there are so many PCBs or splitter cables available all of which actually were designed to be used that way. Don't know what Phanteks is going to be charging for their hub but I'll venture to say that it's a safe bet it's going to cost more than an NZXT Grid fan hub (which look/perform great btw) or ModMyToys PCB or a fan splitter cable


Again, you are perhaps not aware that Phanteks has provided the 3 mounting points for these PCBs in our cases and that the Phanteks PCB and *ONLY the Phanteks PCB* is suitable for mounting on them ? How many different radiator brands and mounting arrangements do you have in your build ? How many different brands of video cards ? How many different brands of fans ? How many different brands of fittings ? How often has any enthusiast ever satisfied a need for three identical items by using two of one and one of another unless there was a logical reason and advantage for doing so ?

Why would I go and ghetto mod a cobbled together solution back in October when a nice clean solution was stated to be available "by end of 2013 ? I don't have an issue so much with the fact that they aren't here as I do with the fact that I planned upgrades and held off other work based upon statements that they would be available by set dates on 4 separate occasions. And I am not the only one waiting .... the Phanteks site and this thread are replete with others waiting. Not only that, based upon my own and many others' recommendations, here and elsewhere, people with other brand cases are waiting for them. I'm in less than a rush, I can sit here with my 8.4C delta T without worry but my wife would like me to close the case and put my tools / remaining parts away someday.

As for fathoming .... I simply can't fathom having having an expensive multi-rad build and having every fan in a build controlled via single speed curve.
Quote:


> BTW, the Darkside and ModRight brands make GREAT high quality splitter cables, depending on if you want sleeved or non-sleeved respectfully. I've used many many of either without ever having a single failure (I can't say that about Phobya splitter cables). They also both have only the rpm wire going to a single fan so the tach reads correctly with mobo / fan controllers (and I can't say that about Bitfenix splitter cables - they had the rpm wire going to all the connectors) and they have common sense variable lengths optimized for use with radiator fans. Good news is FCPU now stocks the Darkside sleeved splitter cables so I don't have to order them from Dazmode in Canada any more.


I have builds with splitter cables, they will be my last builds with slitter cables. Words that come to mind include unsightly, unattractive, messy, crowded and simply "ghetto". The CPU OPT header came about in part due to user's desire to have multiple fans on their CPU coolers w/o splitter cables as well as to provide more power to those fans. I find the haphazard look of flexible tubes running / arching every which way unattractive .... so I'm certainly not going to be enamored with splitter cables doing the same. There's just no way to make a series of daisy chained or 4-to1 thru 6-to1 splitters look attractive.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> I'm not buying it .... to my reading, until seeing the manual quote, you were diametrically opposed and staunch in your position that Phanteks designed the unit with the specific and sole targeted intent that it be used for PWM only. That's was a supposition and interpretation on your part and it would appear that your stance has since softened after reading the manual. [...].


What?

My stance on it has been very consistent all along. Not sure what you all are reading into anything I wrote, but I still assert, just as I have all along, that nowhere in either the Pro or the Primo manual nor in any post in the Phanteks forum or any response from Brian the Phanteks rep here in this thread has there ever been any suggestion that the Phanteks fan hub was made so it can also be used with a variable voltage control motherboard header. The Pro manual page seems to go to great lengths to explain why it should not be by explaining that the CPU_FAN header should preferably be used because "not all motherboard manufacturers implement a true PWM signal" on other headers. You both seem to be reading into it something that it does not say.

Even if it actually works with one and doesn't damage it or the fans, I still say using the Phanteks hub as a splitter for a variable control header just seems pretty dumb to me. If you prefer the look of a PCB to a splitter cable there are many much better looking PCBs that actually were made to split a single fan circuit for multiple fans, and you could have bought several of those long ago for what the Phanteks one is going to cost if they ever do get around to releasing it to be sold separately.

Besides, I've never seen a more unsightly 'ghetto' looking component that came with any case than the Phanteks hub. Seriously, it is hideous by itself and especially so with a medusa-head of cables attached to it. That nasty octopus of cabling is the main drawback common to all fan hubs/pcbs, which is why a well-made fan splitter cable looks so much neater/tidier imho as you only have one single cable going to the mobo header or fan controller, and the rest of the cable typically stays hidden / tucked out of sight. In any case it's a good thing that Phanteks decided to put their fan hub pcb inside a cover in the model they are going to unveil for sale separately. It makes it look a lot better, more like an NZXT Grid.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

I see no reason to continue this .... still not buying what ya selling. No sense in repeating what we went thru with your your assertion that a CPU temp of 0C doesn't mean that the coolant is below the freezing point of water.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> I see no reason to continue this .... still not buying what ya selling. No sense in repeating what we went thru with your your assertion that a CPU temp of 0C doesn't mean that the coolant is below the freezing point of water.


And now you refer another time you completely misunderstood something?? The person posting CPU temps down in the 0-7C range uses air CPU/GPU cooling btw, and was trying to brag how his idle temps were lower than those anyone in the water cooling thread could get, which was something that I didn't realize had apparently gotten lost on you when I pointed out the temps you said were "below freezing" were not, and you then went on to argue a full-length book about it. You were arguing about coolant temps for coolant he didn't have.


----------



## Mampus

Dat Enthoo Mini XL is one heck of a case


----------



## Pierre3400

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mampus*
> 
> Dat Enthoo Mini XL is one heck of a case


Its really is..


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Phanteks definitely knows how to make better use of space for watercooling compatibility than any other case that I'm aware of. I just wish they'd stop with the going only smaller and also make a case that's bigger than the Primo, one that addresses some of the most common complaints about the case, that has more adequate room for a tube res on the bracket and longer (the most common these days) GPUs at the same time. While they're at it I'd also really like to see compatibility with XL ATX mobos, and a little more headroom for a thicker rad up top without having to overhang the mobo. In other words, an extra large Primo in a size more comparable to a 900D or Cosmos II. Sadly, I get the feeling that no such case is in the works, and all their focus seems to be on Primo Mini-Mes instead.


----------



## RnRollie

IF i would be ready to go for a mATX board at this point, i'ld forfait the Primo and go with the Mini XL ... it really looks like a nice functional case








Been trying to "downsize" for years now, but i always tend to come back to BIG cases: Primo (en route) > Fractal ARC < Gigabyte Aurora > "noname" PCWorld (AMD build) < Chieftec > "noname" ATx < SystemPro XL < IBM S36 > "noname" XT > Amstrad < TRS80 > ITT "pong" cartridge









A remark on the "hub" discussion : i'm losing interest in the whole back'n'forth argument... while the phanteks hub is a clever solution, it IS a compromise: it is both a (voltage) fan splitter AND a PWM to Voltage converter and is a nice solution for those who cant or wont buy PWM fans. This hub would not be needed if you ditch all 3-pin voltage fans, go ALL PWM fans, a couple of Swiftech 8-way PWM splitters AND a motherboard with more as one REAL PWM header. Or accept to run ALL fans from ONE PWM control signal. If you really want more control over each channel/destination, get an Aquaro.
So far, the only benefit (besides cable management) of the hub is that you can save some pocket money by using 3-pin -$10,- voltage fans and not buying +$20,- PWM fans. And while this might be important to some, this difference amounts up to way less as what i spend on a night out of eating, drinking & loose women... so... the "cost" of PWM fans is rather relative


----------



## Mampus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RnRollie*
> 
> IF i would be ready to go for a mATX board at this point, i'ld forfait the Primo and go with the Mini XL ... it really looks like a nice functional case
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Been trying to "downsize" for years now, but i always tend to come back to BIG cases: Primo (en route) > Fractal ARC < Gigabyte Aurora > "noname" PCWorld (AMD build) < Chieftec > "noname" ATx < SystemPro XL < IBM S36 > "noname" XT > Amstrad < TRS80 > ITT "pong" cartridge
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -snip-


Hmm, if you want to use mATX and want a much, much smaller case, consider a Silverstone TJ08-E/PS07 or SG09/10


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RnRollie*
> 
> IF i would be ready to go for a mATX board at this point, i'ld forfait the Primo and go with the Mini XL ... it really looks like a nice functional case
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Been trying to "downsize" for years now, but i always tend to come back to BIG cases: Primo (en route) > Fractal ARC < Gigabyte Aurora > "noname" PCWorld (AMD build) < Chieftec > "noname" ATx < SystemPro XL < IBM S36 > "noname" XT > Amstrad < TRS80 > ITT "pong" cartridge
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A remark on the "hub" discussion : i'm losing interest in the whole back'n'forth argument... while the phanteks hub is a clever solution, it IS a compromise: it is both a (voltage) fan splitter AND a PWM to Voltage converter and is a nice solution for those who cant or wont buy PWM fans. This hub would not be needed if you ditch all 3-pin voltage fans, go ALL PWM fans, a couple of Swiftech 8-way PWM splitters AND a motherboard with more as one REAL PWM header. Or accept to run ALL fans from ONE PWM control signal. If you really want more control over each channel/destination, get an Aquaro.
> So far, the only benefit (besides cable management) of the hub is that you can save some pocket money by using 3-pin -$10,- voltage fans and not buying +$20,- PWM fans. And while this might be important to some, this difference amounts up to way less as what i spend on a night out of eating, drinking & loose women... so... the "cost" of PWM fans is rather relative


The problems with your solution are:

One motherboard PWM system has a signal strength capable of running a maximum of about 8 fans.
At present most motherboards have one PWM system. Both CPU fan and CPU opt are on same system.
There are a few that have 2.
This limits total PWM controlled fans to 8.. 16 if motherboard has 2 PWM systems.
Aquaro is much more money.

Some of us don't have the money for nights out eating, drinking, and as for the loose women, our wives would kill us as we staggered into the house.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mampus*
> 
> Hmm, if you want to use mATX and want a much, much smaller case, consider a Silverstone TJ08-E/PS07 or SG09/10


Such language will get your mouth washed out with dirty coolant!


----------



## Mampus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> -snip-
> Such language will get your mouth washed out with dirty coolant!


What do you mean? Am i miss something?


----------



## doyll

Only dirty coolant if you keep suggesting other cases.


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Hey guys, I just wondered if anyone could tell me if the Phanteks Enthoo Primo is of better build quality than the Corsair 900D.

I got a Corsair 900D three weeks ago, but the quality of the case was very poor in my mind, not like the CM Storm Stryker I had before (unfortunately it is sold and do not have the space I require), returned the Corsair 900D, but I still need a case that can take an E-ATX board, together with 2x Monsta 480, one PSU and a couple of GPUs.

I have looked at the Phanteks Enthoo Primo in white (which I think is a okay looking case), but I read a review of the case that stated that the doors had kind of a flex (that too was the 900Ds problem). I instantly got afraid that the Phanteks Enthoo Primo had the same flex to the rest of the case as the Corsair 900D had, which I do not want. If the Cosmos II had room for bigger radiators I would probably go for that. Is the Enthoo Primo as stirdy as the Cosmos 2 or is it more like the 900D? (I have not owned Cosmos 2, but from my CM Storm Stryker to judge it should not be worse).


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

I've had all three cases mentioned, The Enthoo Primo is a great designed case, I love it, but the 'build quality' isn't quite what I'd call on par with either the Corsair 900D or Cosmos 2. Not sure you'd be able to fit a 85mm thick Monsta 480 up top either in the Primo. If so it'll be overhanging the top 40mm of your mobo (assuming push-pull on a rad that thick - kinda pointless to go Monsta without p-p) so you couldn't have anything along the top of the mobo taller than the ~53mm offset.

The Phanteks case is not what I'd call bad build quality, but it's totally in line with what one should expect given it's price range, but if you want a better 'build quality' than the 900D that can fit 2 Monsta 480s, then you're pretty much looking for a Caselabs or possibly a Mountain Mods. I would have also said Silverstone or Little Devil, but I'm not sure either one of them has a case that can fit 2 Monsta 480s.


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> I've had all three cases mentioned, The Enthoo Primo is a great designed case, I love it, but the 'build quality' isn't quite what I'd call on par with either the Corsair 900D or Cosmos 2. Not sure you'd be able to fit a 85mm thick Monsta 480 up top either in the Primo. If so it'll be overhanging the top 40mm of your mobo (assuming push-pull on a rad that thick - kinda pointless to go Monsta without p-p) so you couldn't have anything along the top of the mobo taller than the ~53mm offset.
> 
> The Phanteks case is not what I'd call bad build quality, but it's totally in line with what one should expect given it's price range, but if you want a better 'build quality' than the 900D that can fit 2 Monsta 480s, then you're pretty much looking for a Caselabs or possibly a Mountain Mods. I would have also said Silverstone or Little Devil, but I'm not sure either one of them has a case that can fit 2 Monsta 480s.


Okay, it was that I was afraid of.

If I had lived in the US there had been no other option than going for a Case Labs TH10, but I am stationed in Norway and the TH10 will cost approximately 790 USD which is kind of mindblowing to me, but if that is the only case for me I guess it is worth the money.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Yeah I'm likely going to be getting a Caselabs SMA8 here pretty soon. It's like half the size of the TH10 but cost just as much.

You may want to take note that the TH10 and a few other of their largest cases are being discontinued by Caselabs at the end of this month.


----------



## rpjkw11

I've never owned the 900D, but I had a Cosmos II until I downsized to a Phantom 630, then upsized to a Primo (due to looks). I use only air cooling with no complaints about any of the cases. I personally feel overall quality is best in the Primo. My main complaint against the Cosmos II was the door that was supposed to "magically" slide up and down. It did until just after the warranty expired. It "froze" in the up position making the entire case and design worthless. Murphy's Law at work. "Cute" is for other folks, not me; I forever swore off "magical, neato" moving things. I can personally live without a front door (the hinges DO break), period, but that's often a necessary evil. I wish the Primo did not have a door; I've thought about removing it but I wouldn't like the new look.

Note, again, these are just the impressions of a CASE owner and not a "systems" owner. I only buy full tower cases because of their size, specifically interior size; that's why I bought the Cosmos II. A lot of usable interior space was wasted due to the shape and styling of the exterior, but the case is SO big, it didn't matter. At least for airheads like myself.

I don't think one can go wrong with owning a Cosmos II, 900D, or Primo. I personally know two of those cases are great. All the reviews I've read indicate the 900D is pretty good, too, though I've read reviewers saying the 750D is the better of the two.


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Yeah I'm likely going to be getting a Caselabs SMA8 here pretty soon. It's like half the size of the TH10 but cost just as much.
> 
> You may want to take note that the TH10 and a few other of their largest cases are being discontinued by Caselabs at the end of this month.


Yes, I saw that about the discontinuing of the TH10, but I actually think I am going for a Mountain Mods Ascension in brushed aluminium, it is not quite the same as the TH10, but then I get horizontal mounted motherboard and three panels of acrylic. I can even mount 1x 480 and 4x 360 radiators in it, with 2x PSUs and if I want to 4x GPUs. The positive thing is that I can look at all my hardware from the top and at the same time use it as some kind of a table. That is the best solution for me, for 450 USD + taxes and shipping, but still a pretty good deal.

I have looked at quite a few Case Labs cases and they are beautiful pretty much every one of them, the SMA8 seems like a good case too. Good luck with it!








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rpjkw11*
> 
> I've never owned the 900D, but I had a Cosmos II until I downsized to a Phantom 630, then upsized to a Primo (due to looks). I use only air cooling with no complaints about any of the cases. I personally feel overall quality is best in the Primo. My main complaint against the Cosmos II was the door that was supposed to "magically" slide up and down. It did until just after the warranty expired. It "froze" in the up position making the entire case and design worthless. Murphy's Law at work. "Cute" is for other folks, not me; I forever swore off "magical, neato" moving things. I can personally live without a front door (the hinges DO break), period, but that's often a necessary evil. I wish the Primo did not have a door; I've thought about removing it but I wouldn't like the new look.
> 
> Note, again, these are just the impressions of a CASE owner and not a "systems" owner. I only buy full tower cases because of their size, specifically interior size; that's why I bought the Cosmos II. A lot of usable interior space was wasted due to the shape and styling of the exterior, but the case is SO big, it didn't matter. At least for airheads like myself.
> 
> I don't think one can go wrong with owning a Cosmos II, 900D, or Primo. I personally know two of those cases are great. All the reviews I've read indicate the 900D is pretty good, too, though I've read reviewers saying the 750D is the better of the two.


The Corsair 900D is not anywhere near the quality of the CM Storm Stryker (which I had before), I have also owned two CM Force 500, one CM 430 Elite and the Fractal Design Arc Mini R2. The Corsair 900D has almost as bad quality as the Fractal Design Arc Mini case which is a SMALL case compared to the 900D. All the Cooler Master cases have a good build quality (thicker metal than Corsair/FD), the hole case has WAY less flex to them. Things like that is important to me, as well as the fastenings of radiator brackets and painting has to be done with a good finish. I have never had that problem with CM.

There is a big difference in aircooling and watercooling within a case, the case will weight ALOT more with some radiators with a lot of water blocks and coolant in it. My Fractal Design Arc Mini R2 weighted almost 35 kilos with 2x EK-XTX240, 2x AC Monsta 480s with two loops and almost 4 litres of coolant with three D5 pumps. This case I had 30 + hours modifying to get all this in- and outside of the case, the case had alot of flex to it even with everything mounted inside. I guess the same thing will happen to the big cases with poor build quality, that is my worry.


----------



## electronicmaji

Do you reckon the Evolv will be better build quality than the 350d?


----------



## Branish

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gobigorgohome*
> 
> Okay, it was that I was afraid of.
> 
> If I had lived in the US there had been no other option than going for a Case Labs TH10, but I am stationed in Norway and the TH10 will cost approximately 790 USD which is kind of mindblowing to me, but if that is the only case for me I guess it is worth the money.


The Enthoo Primo doesn't have terrible build quality but in my opinion they tried to fit far too many features that you'd find in premium cases, for an affordable price which unfortunately makes the build quality suffer some. Things like crappy clips for the dust filters and paint that damages easily and has some dirt and such stuck under the paint among other things. I really think had the Primo come in at around the $320-$350 price point it would have been exceptional but then it was their first case so they did a pretty good job in that respect.

I think though that your leaning towards a Caselabs case is definitely a good idea. Things like flimsy side panels on the Primo (I own the black one) I never did notice. If you've got the coin then you'd be crazy not to go Caselabs. I unfortunately don't have the space so I couldn't go that route. The funny thing is, build quality wise, my CM Storm Scout I is still the best modern case I've ever owned though I guess that's an old case now. The best built case I've ever owned though has to be an old Atlas I bought back in 2002 but that case set me back $320 and was all aluminum.


----------



## doyll

Phanteks build quality is very good. But comparing Phanteks to Case Labs is like comparing a BMW and Mercedes to a Rolls Royce and Bentley

Right now
Enthoo Primo is £179.58
ST10 would be £430.00 + £100.00 ?? shipping ??
A person could make some major changes to an Enthoo Primo for £350.00.








Corsair 900D is £274.99
Here again, £95.00 in extras can make a difference.


----------



## catbuster

I love the new enthoo evolv, gonna be beast case i think


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Branish*
> 
> The Enthoo Primo doesn't have terrible build quality but in my opinion they tried to fit far too many features that you'd find in premium cases, for an affordable price which unfortunately makes the build quality suffer some. Things like crappy clips for the dust filters and paint that damages easily and has some dirt and such stuck under the paint among other things. I really think had the Primo come in at around the $320-$350 price point it would have been exceptional but then it was their first case so they did a pretty good job in that respect.
> 
> I think though that your leaning towards a Caselabs case is definitely a good idea. Things like flimsy side panels on the Primo (I own the black one) I never did notice. If you've got the coin then you'd be crazy not to go Caselabs. I unfortunately don't have the space so I couldn't go that route. The funny thing is, build quality wise, my CM Storm Scout I is still the best modern case I've ever owned though I guess that's an old case now. The best built case I've ever owned though has to be an old Atlas I bought back in 2002 but that case set me back $320 and was all aluminum.


Yes, so the Phanteks Enthoo Primo is about of the same quality as the Corsair 900D. That makes it uninteresting for me I am afraid of.


----------



## murraymints94

Just sharing my rig I have gone all air cooling till I can be bothered to do water cooling


----------



## jdsb52

Cant wait to get my primo no, havent even ordered it yet from Scan as im getting a cm693 for my mums build aswell!


----------



## firefoxx04

I have a Pro coming to me from newegg. Im curious, can I fit a 120mm fan on the drive cage between the cage and the PSU cover? Its hard to tell from the pictures. I know the top cage fan would clear fine but the lower cage looks to be too close to the psu cover to work unless I opted to not use the psu cover.

Also, do the drive cages have to be removed in order to fit a 240mm rad in the very front with just two fans in either push or pull?

Thanks guys.


----------



## GOLDDUBBY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Branish*
> 
> The Enthoo Primo doesn't have terrible build quality but in my opinion they tried to fit far too many features that you'd find in premium cases, for an affordable price which unfortunately makes the build quality suffer some. Things like crappy clips for the dust filters and paint that damages easily and has some dirt and such stuck under the paint among other things. I really think had the Primo come in at around the $320-$350 price point it would have been exceptional but then it was their first case so they did a pretty good job in that respect.
> 
> I think though that your leaning towards a Caselabs case is definitely a good idea. Things like flimsy side panels on the Primo (I own the black one) I never did notice. If you've got the coin then you'd be crazy not to go Caselabs. I unfortunately don't have the space so I couldn't go that route. The funny thing is, build quality wise, my CM Storm Scout I is still the best modern case I've ever owned though I guess that's an old case now. The best built case I've ever owned though has to be an old Atlas I bought back in 2002 but that case set me back $320 and was all aluminum.


Yes using such low quality clips was definitely a terrible decision. Had it not been for the loyal klientel that are as exceptional forgiving as we are, then this alone could have ruined any future for phantek as case manufacturer.

The paintjob is fine on mine, maybe there's been a batch made by the interns or something idk.. haven't seen it

All and all it's an ok case when you're looking to save some money and/or an alternative to the all so popular king 900d

My only real complaint of phantek is the measurements that just won't add up anywhere. It's so close every time, thousands of an inch of the inner panel of which the phantek logo sits on, and you could fit any 480 rad in the bottom.

The resvoire holder or what we shall call it... too wide and blocks all the common size graphics cards. An inch off, and you can fit anything.

All and all.. if you own a jigsaw or a dremel you will do just fine with a phantek case.

If you don't own those tools or don't like cutting metal and such, then a couple of extra bux for the 900d is definitely the way to go.


----------



## RnRollie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> I am trying to find a hexagonal / honeycomb mesh with 4.5mm holes on 5mm stagger / centers which has 81% open area. Actually I have found it, but it is in 1x2meter sheets costing over £100.00


Now, how "big" does it need to be? needs to be a sheet of certain dimensions?

Cuz, if the grid is ok, taking tin-snips to a 5 quid Paper Basket might be an option
http://www.ikea.com/gb/en/catalog/categories/series/12559/

Actually, the "bumps" in the mesh might just "fit" fan location









Oh, and its available in pink also... If it would be available in burberry, that would be chavtastic









.


----------



## austinmrs

I dont have this case, but i love the controller it have. For what i saw, you just plug 1 4pin cable on the motherboard, and then the controller can controll 3 pin fans using the 4pin header from the board..

I just cant find anything like this.. Can anyone say to me where can i buy 1 of this? Or maybe similar?


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RnRollie*
> 
> Now, how "big" does it need to be? needs to be a sheet of certain dimensions?
> 
> Cuz, if the grid is ok, taking tin-snips to a 5 quid Paper Basket might be an option
> http://www.ikea.com/gb/en/catalog/categories/series/12559/
> 
> Actually, the "bumps" in the mesh might just "fit" fan location
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh, and its available in pink also... If it would be available in burberry, that would be chavtastic
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


Hadn't thought of that!








Was only looking at hexagonal mesh but this square / diamond design has potential. No Ikea close so searched eby and found several for cheap. Is this "burberry" enough for you?










Need to do some more calculating but the pattern looks to be aobutr 3.5mm diagonal and a round 33.5x29mm (HxW) waste basket should be plenty for top.. not sure yet if one basket will do everything, but two sure would.
Thanks!


----------



## chrisnyc75

While I applaud your efforts to increase airflow, how confident are you that using mesh that less dense will adequately filter dust? The stock mesh/screen might impede airflow somewhat, but it does a damn good job keeping dust out of my case.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *austinmrs*
> 
> I dont have this case, but i love the controller it have. For what i saw, you just plug 1 4pin cable on the motherboard, and then the controller can controll 3 pin fans using the 4pin header from the board..
> 
> I just cant find anything like this.. Can anyone say to me where can i buy 1 of this? Or maybe similar?


Sorry but you have to buy a case to get one.
Really!
Serious as a heart-attack!
9 - 10 months ago Phanteks they would be available as an option but still haven't got them to market.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chrisnyc75*
> 
> While I applaud your efforts to increase airflow, how confident are you that using mesh that less dense will adequately filter dust? The stock mesh/screen might impede airflow somewhat, but it does a damn good job keeping dust out of my case.


You are confusing vent grill mesh with vent filter media. The grill mesh is the metal mesh. The filter is a much finer media behind the grill. The grill mesh is what is on the top vent, on the 5.25 / optical bay covers, in the strip between light strip and main case, in lower front vent (with filter on the back of it), etc. I don't think it is practical to replace all vent mesh but am thinking of replacing the large top and front mesh areas. Maybe put a vent it front door similar to lower front.. possibly with a custom grill in front similar to this.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chrisnyc75*
> 
> While I applaud your efforts to increase airflow, how confident are you that using mesh that less dense will adequately filter dust? The stock mesh/screen might impede airflow somewhat, but it does a damn good job keeping dust out of my case.


You are confusing vent grill mesh with vent filter media. The grill mesh is the metal mesh. The filter is a much finer media behind the grill. The grill mesh is what is on the top vent, on the 5.25 / optical bay covers, in the strip between light strip and main case, in lower front vent (with filter on the back of it), etc. I don't think it is practical to replace all vent mesh but am thinking of replacing the large top and front mesh areas. Maybe put a vent it front door similar to lower front..
possibly with a custom grill in front similar to this. I think Jesse used the first one of these.
  

Link to removing front grill that Captain Curry Sauce did on TheModZoo
http://themodzoo.com/forum/index.php?/topic/865-the-primo-first-wc-enthoo-primo-build/


----------



## austinmrs

So there is no way to do the same?

Use a 4pin to connect to motherboard, and then control 3 pin fans? I have 4x Noctua NF A14 FLX, running at 12v all the time.

But would be nice to have a controller like this, i would just connect them, and they would work like pwm fans.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jassilamba*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> The front vent is on my list of mods. And hopefully a vent in the front door to match.
> 
> MNPCTECH grille fits. Jesse put one in his.. Can't see it now cus he broke the image link.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://themodzoo.com/forum/index.php?/topic/865-the-primo-first-wc-enthoo-primo-build/
> 
> I think Jesse used the first one of these.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Pics fixed in the guide.
Click to expand...


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> And now you refer another time you completely misunderstood something?? The person posting CPU temps down in the 0-7C range uses air CPU/GPU cooling btw, and was trying to brag how his idle temps were lower than those anyone in the water cooling thread could get, which was something that I didn't realize had apparently gotten lost on you when I pointed out the temps you said were "below freezing" were not, and you then went on to argue a full-length book about it. You were arguing about coolant temps for coolant he didn't have.


I didn't say the temps he posted were below freezing, (again misrepresenting what was actually said). The image he posted showed a *current* temp of his CPU at 1C which you took as an opportunity to criticize, .... your answer was that water doesn't freeze at 1C. My statement was to the effect that that any "coolant" associated with that CPU temp would require freeze protection . What you failed to do (then and now) was look at all the data in front of you

1. The same image showed that the *minimum temperature* recorded by the monitoring utility was 0C .... and 0C is in fact the freezing point of water.
2. The computer was running .... and since it was running, the CPU must be warmer than whatever is being used to to cool it.....so if the CPU was 0C then what is cooling it must be by definition, less than 0C otherwise the words "cooler" or "coolant" would not apply.

It should be evident by now Phanteks did NOT have a design goal of limiting the functionality of their PCB to PWM. If they did, they wouldn't be explaining how to use it on voltage in the manual. You might lose one or more available features, if you take another route, that does not mean the vendor has any intention of discouraging such usage.

-HD and SSD utilities don't work when the they are in RAID, does that mean that the manufacturer's had a specific design intent that they only be used in non RAID situations ?
-Many SUV were designed to provide 4 wheel drive, does that mean it was the manufacturer's intent that we never use 2 WD ?
-Our GFX cards came with OC software, does that mean the manufacturer specifically intends that I must overclock ?
-If our MoBos have SLI / CF capability, does that mean that it was the MoBo manufacturer's specific intent that we never use their MoBo in single GFX card situations ?

Just because Phantek's makes their cases very WC friendly, does not mean they are in any way suggesting or specifically designing the case to prohibit you from using an air cooler if for example you like the Enthoo Pro. I'm doing a build next weekend doing exactly that for a user becaus that's what "he" wants. Just because Phanteks included a new and unique feature as part of their PCB.... does not mean that they had a specific intention that the case owner use it in only that way. If the Phanteks cases have one thing that stands out most is their flexibility......

The Primo is designed "optimally" for

a) Just one water pump (1 pump mounting plate)
b) Just a 280 rad in the bottom (2 x 140 mounting platform)
c) Less than 10.6" long GFX cards (lets you use res bracket with common 600m dia. res's)
d) A Single PSU (one fits out of view)
e) 140mm fans and rads (5 fans pre installed)
f) 45 mm thick top rads (no installation access issues)
g) One channel of fan control

That is no way is indicative of a design intent:

a) To not allow a 2nd pump
b) To not allow a 480 Monsta in bottom
c) To not allow EVGA Classified cards
d) To not allow a 2nd PSU since can't be hidden
e) To not allow 120mm fans and rads
f) To not allow thicker rads if your MoBo and u7ser needs are accommodating
g) To not allow use of a 2nd or 3rd PCB .... they did after all provide three mounting brackets for them.

If Phanteks was designing the case such that it was their specific intention that you use PWM and only PWM to control fan speeds, it's appeal would be drastically limited. I for one would not ever consider a cooling solution that required me to have my pumps, rad fans and case fans all running at the same % of speed. Might was well get an AIO.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gobigorgohome*
> 
> Hey guys, I just wondered if anyone could tell me if the Phanteks Enthoo Primo is of better build quality than the Corsair 900D.
> 
> I got a Corsair 900D three weeks ago, but the quality of the case was very poor in my mind, not like the CM Storm Stryker I had before (unfortunately it is sold and do not have the space I require), returned the Corsair 900D, but I still need a case that can take an E-ATX board, together with 2x Monsta 480, one PSU and a couple of GPUs.
> 
> I have looked at the Phanteks Enthoo Primo in white (which I think is a okay looking case), but I read a review of the case that stated that the doors had kind of a flex (that too was the 900Ds problem). I instantly got afraid that the Phanteks Enthoo Primo had the same flex to the rest of the case as the Corsair 900D had, which I do not want. If the Cosmos II had room for bigger radiators I would probably go for that. Is the Enthoo Primo as stirdy as the Cosmos 2 or is it more like the 900D? (I have not owned Cosmos 2, but from my CM Storm Stryker to judge it should not be worse).


I have done a lot of D builds.... mostly 500Ds, one of each of the 750D and 900D. Of the D's I like the 500D best it seems to hit it's target best and is very easy to work in. I wouldn't call the rest "bad" in any way but from a design standpoint, it didn't seem to make efficient use of space and aesthetics was rather blah. I'd agree you could improve the quality of the Primo..... the window, clips and filtering come to mind but the things outside of that .... like say "eliminating plastic" would certainly raise the "quality factor" but I find these more correct word would be "luxury factor". I am quite OK with the use of plastic where necessity doesn't dictate something stronger.

Some of the suggestions I made in my "Suggestions for Enthoo II" post have been incorporated in the newer releases .... With these releases, Phanteks has shown that they take this input seriously and I expect the lines will continue to improve with each generation. Every choice is matter of weighing each options pluses and minuses .... I had the 900D on my build list until I saw the Primo and have had no reason to regret my decision to switch.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *austinmrs*
> 
> I dont have this case, but i love the controller it have. For what i saw, you just plug 1 4pin cable on the motherboard, and then the controller can controll 3 pin fans using the 4pin header from the board..
> 
> I just cant find anything like this.. Can anyone say to me where can i buy 1 of this? Or maybe similar?


Gotta stop thinking about pins. Most 4 pin MoBo headers are not PWM. For example on the M6F, I have two PWM headers and 6 DC headers....all 4 pin

-Swiftech PCB controls PWM 4 pin Fans with a PWM signal front the 4 pin CPU or CPU_OPT Header
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/20988/ele-1196/Swiftech_8-Way_PWM_Cable_Splitter_-_SATA_Power_8W-PWM-SPL-ST.html?tl=c17s424b33

-ModMyToys PCB controls DC 3 pin Fans with a variable voltage signal from the CHA or OPT headers on the MoBo which can be either 3 or 4 pin.
http://www.frozencpu.com/cat/l3/g/c121/s424/list/p1/b214/ModMyToys-Fan_Accessories-Multi_Fan_Ports-Page1.html

-Phanteks can do both .... however with the Phanteks connected to CHA and OPT headers you can't connect the auxillary power cable.


----------



## jdsb52

I just purchased the Rev.2 version from Scan, will be here tomorrow! Cant Wait!


----------



## doyll

Mate on another forum finished his Primo Midas build. Thought I'd post a pic of it.


----------



## SteelArt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Mate on another forum finished his Primo Midas build. Thought I'd post a pic of it.


DAMGOOD!


----------



## doyll

Indeed! The gold added to details like screw heads, logos, fan rings, video cards, etc really set off the gold color scheme.









Just added a few more pics of Primo Midas.


----------



## rpjkw11

I saw that case on Kitguru the other day, but I haven't found any additional info, like where to buy. The original pics looked rather meh, but after the build it looks fabulous. If you can shed a little light on available, tec., Doyll, I'd appreciated it. Thanks for the post!


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rpjkw11*
> 
> I saw that case on Kitguru the other day, but I haven't found any additional info, like where to buy. The original pics looked rather meh, but after the build it looks fabulous. If you can shed a little light on available, tec., Doyll, I'd appreciated it. Thanks for the post!


Could you give me a link to the Kit Guru pics please?

Colin really did a fantastic job. Here's link to project log:
http://forums.overclockers.co.uk/showthread.php?t=18560177


----------



## xCloudyHorizon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Could you give me a link to the Kit Guru pics please?
> 
> Colin really did a fantastic job. Here's link to project log:
> http://forums.overclockers.co.uk/showthread.php?t=18560177


Here you go.


----------



## fateswarm

How is the availability of pro going? A lot of people here in europe want them but it seems nobody has it available. Should I believe a shops estimation of end of June?


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xCloudyHorizon*
> 
> Here you go.










That's not Colin's case!







I thought you were referring to Colin's Primo Midas! Thanks!









Had not seen the Gold Edition Enthoo Primo. Too bad they didn't do all the grills except top gold too.







From KitGuru.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fateswarm*
> 
> How is the availability of pro going? A lot of people here in europe want them but it seems nobody has it available. Should I believe a shops estimation of end of June?


It takes about 3 weeks longer to get product from China to EU than to USA.. Phanteks USA now has the Enthoo Pro showing as in stock.


----------



## jdsb52

Proud owner of a primo now!


----------



## fateswarm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> It takes about 3 weeks longer to get product from China to EU than to USA.. Phanteks USA now has the Enthoo Pro showing as in stock.


Oh well. I guess I'll keep my preorder for end of june. But I'll keep my eyes open for other shops.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jdsb52*
> 
> Proud owner of a primo now
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> !


Congratulations!









Is it big enough for you?


----------



## cheng94

I'm between getting the enthoo primo pro or the corsair 750d which would be the better option?


----------



## jdsb52

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Congratulations!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Is it big enough for you?


Yes plenty, should suffice for a quite a few years!


----------



## doyll

I figure mine will be going strong for many, many years.


----------



## jdsb52

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> I figure mine will be going strong for many, many years.


Ill put more pics up soon once i get the rest of my Z97 upgrade!!


----------



## cgull

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cheng94*
> 
> I'm between getting the enthoo primo pro or the corsair 750d which would be the better option?


get both, I have









enthoo will give more rad space, more drives etc, basically a lot bigger. comes down to looks, and what you want to put inside


----------



## EPiiKK

Just ordered my enthoo pro, couldnt be more excited. Im so fed up with the craptastic 300r of mine


----------



## setter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> You are confusing vent grill mesh with vent filter media. The grill mesh is the metal mesh. The filter is a much finer media behind the grill. The grill mesh is what is on the top vent, on the 5.25 / optical bay covers, in the strip between light strip and main case, in lower front vent (with filter on the back of it), etc. I don't think it is practical to replace all vent mesh but am thinking of replacing the large top and front mesh areas. Maybe put a vent it front door similar to lower front..
> possibly with a custom grill in front similar to this. I think Jesse used the first one of these.
> 
> 
> Link to removing front grill that Captain Curry Sauce did on TheModZoo
> http://themodzoo.com/forum/index.php?/topic/865-the-primo-first-wc-enthoo-primo-build/


Quite fancy trying this mod, the honeycomb grill fits too according to the modzoo article. Just wondering if theese grills are available in the uk?


----------



## firefoxx04

I was PMing doyll but we decided we should talk publicly to help anyone else

me
Quote:


> I have my build finished in my Pro and im a bit disappointed with the controller.
> 
> I have a lian li controller that is just a simple 4 port with an adjustable knob. It can get my fans to spin down to a very low rpm (im not sure what rpm but they are all very quiet).
> 
> With the phantek controller, my rpm range does not very much. Maybe by 100-150 rpm. I think my board is to blame because its fan software in the bios is pretty lacking and the windows software gigabyte offers does very little as well. Its a 990fx UD3.
> 
> Im pretty sure its hooked up right. 4pin going to CPU header on the motherboard and I have the bios set to PWM and not voltage or "auto". I have a control fan hooked to the first port and additional fans hooked to the other ports. At idle the fans spin at about 1100 rpm and during load it will jump to 1200 rpm. I guess the board thinks a idle of 40C is too high??


doyll
Quote:


> Do you have a thread I can answer on? That way others who may have same problems can find the answers too. What motherboard do you have? The motherboard / hub should idle fans down to very low speeds depending on what the PWM fan speed to heat fan curve is setup to.
> 
> You should be able to use Gigabyte's EasyTune 6 Works fine for me.


I have tried easy tune. Setting the fan speed to the lowest possible setting does not idle my fans very low. Even the 200mm fan spins at about full speed. I think its a bios thing. I could always connect the controller to my father's ASUS board that has much better fan control. I dont think its the Phantek controller's fault that I have issues.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *setter*
> 
> Quite fancy trying this mod, the honeycomb grill fits too according to the modzoo article. Just wondering if theese grills are available in the uk?


Kustom has some of MNPCTech's goodies
http://www.kustompcs.co.uk/acatalog/MNPCTech_Radiator_Grills.html

http://www.coolercases.co.uk/acatalog/mnpctech.html

I know the owner. Very nice guy. Maybe check and see if he could post one over. I've thought of getting one myself.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *firefoxx04*
> 
> I have tried easy tune. Setting the fan speed to the lowest possible setting does not idle my fans very low. Even the 200mm fan spins at about full speed. I think its a bios thing. I could always connect the controller to my father's ASUS board that has much better fan control. I dont think its the Phantek controller's fault that I have issues.


Sorry, was having some supper.

ET6 should drop the speed right down. I have mine set at about 30% @ 30c and 100% @ 65c and fans idle at 660-680rpm. My CPU never goes above 50c and at that temp the fans are spinning 1050rpm. In the morning I'll give it a little play and see if I can figure out whats happening.


----------



## firefoxx04

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Sorry, was having some supper.
> 
> ET6 should drop the speed right down. I have mine set at about 30% @ 30c and 100% @ 65c and fans idle at 660-680rpm. My CPU never goes above 50c and at that temp the fans are spinning 1050rpm. In the morning I'll give it a little play and see if I can figure out whats happening.


im curious if my controler is IDENTICAL to the primo controller, with the only difference being I have sata power and you guys have molex power?

its ironic because I was delighted to see that it is sata powered.. but im using a molex to sata converter. MY res takes molex to im powering my res, controller, dvd drive by a molex cable with adapters for the dvd and controller.

I think its my board causing the problems.. Its the Gigabyte UD3 990fx. Ill swap the controller to my fathers PC and bring my fan over as well and see if I can get his board to run my fan at a low rpm. Right now they are at 1100rpm (2 lian li fans) and its alright but I dont need that speed for idle.

Ill mess with ET6 again later but I didnt see much of a difference if anything at all. Do you think I need to disable all smart fan controls in the bios before I try to use software control?

EDIT:: I have fan control somewhat working... I can drop the fan speed from 1145rpm to 1135rpm consistently (yes 10 rpm difference). I think the board is just bad at controlling fan speed or it does not like my idle temp of 40c.

I wish their was a true pwm 5.25 controller that I could use to give the case controller a pwm signal without using the motherboard.


----------



## jdsb52

Thought I would transplant my current system in there so I get a good fan setup on, no pic with window on tho, its discharging again, anyone know how to clean it without it charging up again?


----------



## RnRollie

sorry, it must be me, but i have no idea what you mean. Can you rephrase what you are saying/asking?


----------



## jdsb52

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RnRollie*
> 
> sorry, it must be me, but i have no idea what you mean. Can you rephrase what you are saying/asking?


was asking if anyone here knows of a way to clean the plexi glass with out the charging up static on it?


----------



## RnRollie

ah... do it in the bathroom.. on the sink .. position the panel so that you can hold the panel (corner) wiht one hand which is also touching the tap (or running water) at the same time

you can also sit on the edge of the bathtub, with the panel on your knees and your feet in running water, but the first option looks slightly less ridiculous








the bathtub option is easier thou









its just a matter of discharging the static to ground before it can really build up.

using a different type of cloth to "clean/polish" is of course also an option.. something like a (microfibre) chamois


----------



## jdsb52

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RnRollie*
> 
> ah... do it in the bathroom.. on the sink .. position the panel so that you can hold the panel (corner) wiht one hand which is also touching the tap (or running water) at the same time
> 
> you can also sit on the edge of the bathtub, with the panel on your knees and your feet in running water, but the first option looks slightly less ridiculous
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> the bathtub option is easier thou
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> its just a matter of discharging the static to ground before it can really build up.
> 
> using a different type of cloth to "clean/polish" is of course also an option.. something like a (microfibre) chamois


thanks for the tip, and yeah was trying with a microfiber i had, still charged it, then used another i use for my tablet and didnt charge it as much, guessing becuase its more used!


----------



## doyll

Sorry firefoxx04, didn't have time to test hub. Will try getting it done tomorrow.

jdsb5, what is the wood under case with blocks under wood for?








A test lead with clips on the ends is easier. Clip on end to a good ground.. like faucet and the other to side panel.


----------



## firefoxx04

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Sorry firefoxx04, didn't have time to test hub. Will try getting it done tomorrow.
> 
> jdsb5, what is the wood under case with blocks under wood for?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A test lead with clips on the ends is easier. Clip on end to a good ground.. like faucet and the other to side panel.


Hey, not a problem. Im in no rush.

I have been thinking though. Would removing the large honey comb grill improve airflow out the top of the case? The top panel is composed of the large plastic honeycomb, a fine metallic (?) filter and the filter cover. Thats 3 restriction sources and the only necessary one is the filter cover if you are using the top as an exhaust. I have the filter and cover removed with just the top panel installed. Im thinking about cutting out the honey comb plastics (leaving just enough to have the filter installed without issue.

I did notice an air flow improvement after removing the top filter and filter cover. My idle temps have dropped as well.


----------



## doyll

The round holed metal mesh is only about 30-35% open area. The fine thread-like square mesh is the filter.. I don't know what it's open area is but probably at least 50-60%. The plastic frame is not an issue. Airflow area of vent is much more than fan airflow area.. even with the plastic frame are subtracted from total area.

Jack did some testing and found several degrees difference running with vent cover / grill removed versus installed.


----------



## MrGrievous

So in anticipation of the Luxe I thought I'd ask if anyone knew how many fans are included and what size they are, led color? Also thought I share that Phanteks will be producing a white Pro sometime in July (source was directly from one of their representatives when I asked on their main page through the chat feature they have with a response literally after I asked


----------



## firefoxx04

Alright cool. I may install the filter cover without the filter and see if the temps rise. Im fine without a filter but keeping the fans exposed the way they are right now makes me a bit weary.

I have the rad in pull right now. I know there is supposedly no difference between push and pull so I might run my new rad with 140mm fans in push.

edit: right now im messing with speed fan to see if I can get the PWM working how I want it.


----------



## firefoxx04

So I think the Pro's fan controller is either different from the primo or its broken.

Without sata power, I can use speedfan to control the speed of my fans all the way from 0rpm to 1600rpm. This is two xspc fans. My other fans are on a separate controller for now. When being powered by just the motherboard 4pin, the controller can drive both fans correctly and be adjust by speed fan

When connecting the sata power, the fans ramp up to full rpm (1600rpm). I have verified that I have a fan connected to "fan1" to act as the control fan. My second fan is connected to fan two. I am not using a splitter on fan1's header.

A few pages ago a guy had this same issue and was claiming that the controller runs at full speed when using the sata power. All the primo owners called him crazy but I think he is right. something is not working as intended on the pros controller.

Any other PRO owners out there?


----------



## firefoxx04

Im reading the manual and It seems to have some confusion / conflicting information.

It talks about how the CPU 4pin motherboard connector must be set to PWM in the bios (mine is and its working)

It then talks about alternative 4pin connectors and how they are not always true PWM and that they should be avoided. Im not using a non pwm 4pin so its a non issue.

It then goes on to say
Quote:


> "The 12V sata power cable can not be used to power the pwm hub if connecting to these 4pin connectors, due to interference with the rpm regulation by voltage (resulting in fans running on full rpm)".


Now, this makes it sound like the sata power is not to be used when you connector to a fake 4pin (voltage control) connector. It then says
Quote:


> "The PWM hub will draw its power from the 4pin connector which is limited to a total device consumption of 30W in total."


When I plug in the sata power, fans go full speed. Without sata power I can control both my rad fans. I have not tried connecting all of my fans. Im curious why they say that the 4pin cpu header is 30W limited. How do they know? Is that an ATX standard?

Either way the pro controller does not work (for me) when using sata power AND the 4pin to the cpu connector when running in PWM. Frustrating because the Primo owners make it seem like they can use molex power (same thing right?) and still control their fans.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *firefoxx04*
> 
> Im reading the manual and It seems to have some confusion / conflicting information.
> 
> It talks about how the CPU 4pin motherboard connector must be set to PWM in the bios (mine is and its working)
> 
> It then talks about alternative 4pin connectors and how they are not always true PWM and that they should be avoided. Im not using a non pwm 4pin so its a non issue.
> 
> It then goes on to say
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> "The 12V sata power cable can not be used to power the pwm hub if connecting to these 4pin connectors, due to interference with the rpm regulation by voltage (resulting in fans running on full rpm)".
> 
> 
> 
> Now, this makes it sound like the sata power is not to be used when you connector to a fake 4pin (voltage control) connector. It then says
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> "The PWM hub will draw its power from the 4pin connector which is limited to a total device consumption of 30W in total."
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> When I plug in the sata power, fans go full speed. Without sata power I can control both my rad fans. I have not tried connecting all of my fans. Im curious why they say that the 4pin cpu header is 30W limited. How do they know? Is that an ATX standard?
> 
> Either way the pro controller does not work (for me) when using sata power AND the 4pin to the cpu connector when running in PWM. Frustrating because the Primo owners make it seem like they can use molex power (same thing right?) and still control their fans.
Click to expand...

To control fan speed without PWM you cannot use the Sata power connection to PSU.
What you are experiencing sounds like you do not have PWM working.
*30w is what the hub can supply with Sata power from PSU*
*Motherboard fan headers are only supply up to 12w.*
The Pro hub is the same basic hub as Primo have / had.. I suspect new Primos' will soon have the same hub as Pro now has.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrGrievous*
> 
> So in anticipation of the Luxe I thought I'd ask if anyone knew how many fans are included and what size they are, led color? Also thought I share that Phanteks will be producing a white Pro sometime in July (source was directly from one of their representatives when I asked on their main page through the chat feature they have with a response literally after I asked


Website says 2 fans are included. but only lists the front 200mm. The other is a 140mm fan. No idea about lighting.


----------



## firefoxx04

im not sure what else I could do then. I have PWM selected in the bios. Speed fan lets me completely control the cpu fan too but I guess that does not mean its actually using PWM.

I just find it odd that both my board and the previous guy's board are both being screwy or maybe both of us have messed up controllers.

Could I take a test light to the 12v wire coming from the motherboard to the controller and see if its getting constant power or pulsed power? That way i can rule out whether or not pwm is even working in the first place.


----------



## RnRollie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *firefoxx04*
> 
> im not sure what else I could do then. I have PWM selected in the bios. Speed fan lets me completely control the cpu fan too but I guess that does not mean its actually using PWM.
> 
> I just find it odd that both my board and the previous guy's board are both being screwy or maybe both of us have messed up controllers.
> 
> Could I take a test light to the 12v wire coming from the motherboard to the controller and see if its getting constant power or pulsed power? That way i can rule out whether or not pwm is even working in the first place.


erm, the 12V should be permanent & not pulse
If the header is set to voltage control.. then setting "low" speed in bios would result in less as 12v , most probably between 5 & 7 Volt
This you *could* measure with a bulb as it would dim with lower voltager. You could measure with a fan.. or even better .... use a multimeter

However, if the header is PWM, then 12v is 12v ... you could try measuring the PWM signal pin as it goes high or low between 0v & 5v ... but i doubt very much that you can see 25000 pulses per second with the naked eye.

PWM signal for fans is 25Khz
If the MB header does not provide 25Khz but less, then -depending on how tolerant the fan is- several things can happen: from running at full speed by ignoring the signal, to running at way less as full speed, even when set to 100% , to not running at all ; with "humming" or "singing" or "knocking" in between not running and full tilt.


----------



## RnRollie

Something else
For those living not too far from Germany... caseking has a bit of a package deal offer:
a Pro + 4 F140SP fans
a Primo + 6 F140SP fans

http://www.caseking.de/shop/catalog/Gehaeuse/PHANTEKS:::29_11196.html

Disclaimer: i am not affiliated with caseking... just saying they have a decent offer


----------



## doyll

Pretty much what RnRollie said.









The PWM pin is a pulsed 5v. PWM fans have a PCB in the fan that receives PWM signal and pulses the 12v power. This is why I said it sounds like the motherboard is not sending PWM signal but is voltage controlled. Motherboard is lowering the fan speed by lowering the voltage, but when you plug in the Sata the hub sends 12v to fans and they run 100%. Don't know if you could the PWM pulse in a light as the pulse is quite fast.


----------



## jdsb52

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RnRollie*
> 
> ah... do it in the bathroom.. on the sink .. position the panel so that you can hold the panel (corner) wiht one hand which is also touching the tap (or running water) at the same time
> 
> you can also sit on the edge of the bathtub, with the panel on your knees and your feet in running water, but the first option looks slightly less ridiculous
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> the bathtub option is easier thou
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> its just a matter of discharging the static to ground before it can really build up.
> 
> using a different type of cloth to "clean/polish" is of course also an option.. something like a (microfibre) chamois


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Sorry firefoxx04, didn't have time to test hub. Will try getting it done tomorrow.
> 
> jdsb5, what is the wood under case with blocks under wood for?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A test lead with clips on the ends is easier. Clip on end to a good ground.. like faucet and the other to side panel.


They are its temporary stand, got one in the design stage that matches tne rest of my bedroom furniture., also how do I know if I got the rev.2 model?


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RnRollie*
> 
> Something else
> For those living not too far from Germany... caseking has a bit of a package deal offer:
> a Pro + 4 F140SP fans
> a Primo + 6 F140SP fans
> 
> http://www.caseking.de/shop/catalog/Gehaeuse/PHANTEKS:::29_11196.html
> 
> Disclaimer: i am not affiliated with caseking... just saying they have a decent offer


Not bad.

Newegg has PH-F140SP for $9.99 with free shipping.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835709023&cm_re=phanteks-_-35-709-023-_-Product

Entho Primo is $239.99, $219.99 after $20.00 rebate.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811854001&cm_re=phanteks-_-11-854-001-_-Product


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jdsb52*
> 
> They are its temporary stand, got one in the design stage that matches tne rest of my bedroom furniture., also how do I know if I got the rev.2 model?


I suggest having a space between the bottom of case and your base to allow better airflow to bottom of case. 35mm is about right.


----------



## fateswarm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RnRollie*
> 
> caseking.de


Hah. 27/6 is what I get here for the Pro too. I hope it's consistent across the yurope.


----------



## jdsb52

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> I suggest having a space between the bottom of case and your base to allow better airflow to bottom of case. 35mm is about right.


Yeah the new stand design has stand off strips and thanks for the measurement, so how do i know if i received the rev.2 model, i ordered it for scan and its stated its rev.2, but i wanna be sure?


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jdsb52*
> 
> Yeah the new stand design has stand off strips and thanks for the measurement, so how do i know if i received the rev.2 model, i ordered it for scan and its stated its rev.2, but i wanna be sure?


The 35mm needs to be open all the way around the case bottom. except for like 6 blocks under where case pads are.
Total airflow area of intake through Primo base to bottom fans is 91.35sq cm.. a single 120mm fan has 101sq cm airflow area.. and that's not taking into account the lost of airflow area caused by the grill mesh of another 60-70% (grill mesh is 30-40% open area).

Left side has no airflow.. The grills on filters are totally cosmetic!! There's a solid surface behind them visible when you take them out to clean!!

16.2sq cm = Right side has 36x 3x15mm slots
36.75sq cm = Back is 147x25mm
15sq cm = Front has 5x 10x30mm
23.4sq cm = Base is 2mm off floor with 126.5cm - 19.5cm for feet = 117cm + back area
91.35sq cm = Total area

35mm adds 400sq cm. That is with the area of 6x30mm castors deducted.
A 140mm fan has about 140sq cm of airflow area. It varies some because of center hub size differences.

I have no idea what the differences are. As far as I know Phanteks has not said what the revisions ware


----------



## jdsb52

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> I have no idea what the differences are. As far as I know Phanteks has not said what the revisions ware


ahh ok cool, i wont worry too much then, everything is solid, apart from those little noise damping washers on the bottom rad/fan bracket, they disintegrated on me, had to cut two 1/2" tap washers in half and use them, actually works better!


----------



## jdsb52

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> The 35mm needs to be open all the way around the case bottom. except for like 6 blocks under where case pads are.
> Total airflow area of intake through Primo base to bottom fans is 91.35sq cm.. a single 120mm fan has 101sq cm airflow area.. and that's not taking into account the lost of airflow area caused by the grill mesh of another 60-70% (grill mesh is 30-40% open area).
> 
> Left side has no airflow.. The grills on filters are totally cosmetic!! There's a solid surface behind them visible when you take them out to clean!!
> 
> 16.2sq cm = Right side has 36x 3x15mm slots
> 36.75sq cm = Back is 147x25mm
> 15sq cm = Front has 5x 10x30mm
> 23.4sq cm = Base is 2mm off floor with 126.5cm - 19.5cm for feet = 117cm + back area
> 91.35sq cm = Total area
> 
> 35mm adds 400sq cm. That is with the area of 6x30mm castors deducted.
> A 140mm fan has about 140sq cm of airflow area. It varies some because of center hub size differences.
> 
> I have no idea what the differences are. As far as I know Phanteks has not said what the revisions ware


And to quote the 35mm, u are recommending block standoffs just where the ruubber pads are??


----------



## firefoxx04

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Pretty much what RnRollie said.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The PWM pin is a pulsed 5v. PWM fans have a PCB in the fan that receives PWM signal and pulses the 12v power. This is why I said it sounds like the motherboard is not sending PWM signal but is voltage controlled. Motherboard is lowering the fan speed by lowering the voltage, but when you plug in the Sata the hub sends 12v to fans and they run 100%. Don't know if you could the PWM pulse in a light as the pulse is quite fast.


I understand that now. I just dont get why my board refuses to use the cpu 4pin as pwm. Its set to pwm in the bios


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jdsb52*
> 
> And to quote the 35mm, u are recommending block standoffs just where the ruubber pads are??


The blockscan be 30-40mm thick and as big as you want.. reasonable size.. or make a base like I do and put some blocks on it. Set it on your base and set case on it. I though about making something fancy but for me but castors work better on a 30mm wide x 9mm thick frame the size of base.
 
 

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *firefoxx04*
> 
> I understand that now. I just dont get why my board refuses to use the cpu 4pin as pwm. Its set to pwm in the bios


It's a strange problem. You could try a PWM fan. Remove the 12v and ground pins for plug and use a molex to fan socket for power from PSU to test the socket.


----------



## austinmrs

..


----------



## jdsb52

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> The blockscan be 30-40mm thick and as big as you want.. reasonable size.. or make a base like I do and put some blocks on it. Set it on your base and set case on it. I though about making something fancy but for me but castors work better on a 30mm wide x 9mm thick frame the size of base.
> 
> 
> 
> It's a strange problem. You could try a PWM fan. Remove the 12v and ground pins for plug and use a molex to fan socket for power from PSU to test the socket.


Not bad engineering there dude, and minewont be movable gonna be a draw or cupboard under it to put all my spares and extra parts, was thinking of two strips just a tad wider than the feet bit of the base, allows a full channel for air to flow under


----------



## firefoxx04

I think I just verified a few things. Doyl I will keep your suggestion in mind.

I have found that my board is controlling the 4pin cpu header with voltage. When using speedfan, I can drop the "pwm" value to slow the fans (its called PWM but its really lowering voltage). This works when the SATA 12v power is disconnected. Upon connecting external 12v power, the fans go to full speed. This happens despite my board telling me it is using pwm.

To verify, I found my Mothers computer controls PWM really well. The bios will run a "Smart Fan Calibration" and lets me choose 3pin or 4pin. I plugged her cpu fan into the cpu 4pin header, selected 4pin and ran the calibration.

The bios started with a PWM value of 110 or so. It dropped the value until it saw the fan speed drop. It then used that value as the "max fan speed". I could hear the fan slow down.

I connected a 3pin fan to the cpu fan header. Selected 4pin (yes 4pin) and ran the calibration. Nothing happened and I was greeted with a "Cpu fan out of control" error. Obviously it cant control a 3pin fans fan via pwm.

I ran the calibration again but this time under 3pin. The calibration successfully controlled the 3pin case fan and the 4pin cpu fan when I tried them individually. This is not unexpected because all fans can be controlled by voltage.

Now that I verified that the 4pin header can do both voltage and pwm, I connected the Phanteks controller via the provided 4pin cable. I connected the cpu fan to the controllers fan1 position. I ran the calibration as 4pin. The test FAILED to control the fan. I was using a 4pin fan on the phanteks controller so I ran the test again with the 3pin case fan. Running the calibration as 4pin did nothing once again. Running the test as 3pin (voltage) worked just fine when using the phanteks controller.

All test were run without sata external power. When the 3pin test was able to drop the fan speed, adding the external sata power brought the fan speed up to max (Obviously because its running in voltage mode and was jumped up to 12v)

My conclusion is that the fan controller is NOT using the pwm signal at all. I have verified that the pwm output is working because it controls a pwm fan just fine and fails to control a 3pin unless I switch to 3pin/voltage control in the bios.


----------



## RnRollie

so, either the controller/hub is broken, or there is a break in the wire or a loose wire or a bad contact/pin or the MB fan header sends a PWM signal which is to far out of specs for the hub/controller while still wihtin specs for the fan itself (as i said earlier, some fans are more tolerant as others)
There might be a zebra on the loose, but since zebra's are rare, we should still keep looking for horses..
Since i'm not Dr House, i suggest scrutinising the cable... there might be a bad/loose pin/wire.

This does not mean there is not something wrong with the hub, but step-by-step from point A to C will pinpoint the problem.
Then again, maybe there is already enough "evidence" to ask Phanteks to send you a new hub.


----------



## firefoxx04

I think I am going to relay that info to Phanteks. The PC that has working PWM controls any pwm and voltage fan just fine when set to its respective 4pin or 3pin settings.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *firefoxx04*
> 
> I think I am going to relay that info to Phanteks. The PC that has working PWM controls any pwm and voltage fan just fine when set to its respective 4pin or 3pin settings.


Does sound like there may be a problem with the PWM fan hub. I know it's a dumb question, but you are plugging the 3-pin fan into the 1st fan header.. The one that is master for controlling all the other fan headers on PWM hub as master? I only ask because I'm pretty sure if it is not used, the hub will not control the other fans. It says it in the Important note in instructions. The part in the red box.

Quote:


> Important Note:
> 1 motherboard connector can only read 1 RPM signal. Therefore, the motherboard will only read the RPM signal from1 device connected to FAn 1. The RPM from all other devices will be regulated according to FAN 1. Y-splitter should not be connected to FAN 1.
> 
> Connecting the 4-pin to other 4-pin headers (besides the "CPU_Fan" connector (e.g. "CPU_Fan2", "CHA_Fan2", "OPT_Fan."), however not all motherboard manufacturers implement a true PWM signalmodulation onto these connectors


Meaning the FAN 1 header on PWM fan hub.








Smart move!
Running a PWM fan to verify PWM is working only works if the same setup does not control a 3-pin variable voltage fan.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jdsb52*
> 
> Not bad engineering there dude, and minewont be movable gonna be a draw or cupboard under it to put all my spares and extra parts, was thinking of two strips just a tad wider than the feet bit of the base, allows a full channel for air to flow under


You need the 30mm gap all the way around except in the area of the feet.. on where I have castors.


----------



## Krahe

Well winters here and with the release of DC I think its time for another build, just ordered the Enthoo. Current case was scratch built to take the dual 480 rads as at the time the only case capable was the Caselabs which was out of my price range. Looking forward to the case arriving, think I'll go a rigid tubing build this time round, now to start gathering parts.









This is my Scratch built case, I think I can improve with the Enthoo, looking forward to playing with this case.


----------



## GOLDDUBBY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jdsb52*
> 
> was asking if anyone here knows of a way to clean the plexi glass with out the charging up static on it?


After cleaning it, just hold the panel and touch something grouned.


----------



## GOLDDUBBY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krahe*


Jawdrop! What a beaut!


----------



## firefoxx04

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Does sound like there may be a problem with the PWM fan hub. I know it's a dumb question, but you are plugging the 3-pin fan into the 1st fan header.. The one that is master for controlling all the other fan headers on PWM hub as master? I only ask because I'm pretty sure if it is not used, the hub will not control the other fans. It says it in the Important note in instructions. The part in the red box.
> 
> Meaning the FAN 1 header on PWM fan hub.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Smart move!
> Running a PWM fan to verify PWM is working only works if the same setup does not control a 3-pin variable voltage fan.


Correct. I am running a fan on header 1 and any additional fans are on ports 2-6.

The sad part is that even if I get a working hub, my board is still a pos that won't control fans via pwm.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Only you will be able to answer that question by trying it out for yourself and see.

Not sure why you think it's ok to post a question on a thread that has absolutely nothing to do with the thread's topic. Not even remotely. Sorry, but that's pretty poor netiquette.

post I was replying to removed
Thanks Doyll


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *firefoxx04*
> 
> Correct. I am running a fan on header 1 and any additional fans are on ports 2-6.
> 
> The sad part is that even if I get a working hub, my board is still a pos that won't control fans via pwm.


I was pretty sure you had it hooked up correctly but figured better to ask than leave it to chance.









Definitely a very frustrating bunch of problems.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Only you will be able to answer that question by trying it out for yourself and see.
> 
> Not sure why you think it's ok to post a question on a thread that has absolutely nothing to do with the thread's topic. Not even remotely. Sorry, but that's pretty poor netiquette.


I think austinmrs is a troll. Posted same thing twice: post #4090 and 4101. I ignored first one, now it's been reported to mods.


----------



## MrGrievous

Does anyone know if a 420 can fit in the bottom of the Primo? I keep going back and forth in deciding to go with a Luxe or primo each day I wait for the Luxe to drop lol and as I do so Im trying to plan together what I could and I love maximizing case space with big rads







Also does anyone know how many fans the Luxe will have? I've been looking and cant seem to find a definitive answer.

Edit: I know a 280 will fit in the bottom and to get a 420 in I will need to remove the stealth panel.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Yeah as far as 140mm-series rads go only a 280 will fit in the bottom of the Primo unless you want to remove the panel with the 5.25" bay latches and the Phanteks logo plate (or cut the bottom of it below the 5.25" bays).

Bill Owen and Jesse took that panel off as part of their review. Here's a link to their vid starting at that part:





You can also see in that photo why any longer 140mm-series rad than a 280 would require removing that panel. If you want to keep the panel in place only a 120-series rad (360, 480) will fit behind it and only then as long as it's max 125mm wide. A 124mm-wide Alphacool 360 or 480 just fits, but many other brand 360/480 rads are wider than 125mm and thus will not.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Only you will be able to answer that question by trying it out for yourself and see.
> 
> Not sure why you think it's ok to post a question on a thread that has absolutely nothing to do with the thread's topic. Not even remotely. Sorry, but that's pretty poor netiquette.
> 
> post I was replying to removed
> Thanks Doyll


All I did was tell the moderators.








:thumb:Thank you moderator, whoever you are.


----------



## austinmrs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> All I did was tell the moderators.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> :thumb:Thank you moderator, whoever you are.


You are the best here, good job


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *austinmrs*
> 
> You are the best here, good job


Thanks, but wife does not agree with you.








I'm just one of many in our fine Phanteks group here. We have some very helpful and knowledgeable people here.


----------



## MrGrievous

@Unicr0nhunter That you for giving an end depth response lol, I have actually watch practically watched every review out there for Phanteks cases and there new case launch videos multiple times now lol. Now as I was reading your response I actually thought of another question lol. If I fit a in the bottom by cutting the panel in half does the rad take up all the room available, meaning how cramped is it and further more can I fit dual st30mm 280 rads in the front and side lol. Well at least the rear panel radiator option. If someone can post a pic of 420 in the roof from the inside that could answer my question of how cramped it is with the 420. Also rep +1 Unicr0nhunter thankyou.


----------



## Wezzor

How do you guys think it would work with positive air pressure in Phanteks Enthoo Pro. My idea was x1 200mm front and x1 200mm top as intake fans (coolermaster megaflow) and leave the rear 140mm fan as exhaust.


----------



## MrGrievous

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wezzor*
> 
> How do you guys think it would work with positive air pressure in Phanteks Enthoo Pro. My idea was x1 200mm front and x1 200mm top as intake fans (coolermaster megaflow) and leave the rear 140mm fan as exhaust.


Forgive me but is the top of the pro filtered?


----------



## Wezzor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrGrievous*
> 
> Forgive me but is the top of the pro filtered?


Yepp it is. Just double checked.


----------



## fateswarm

The case appears to be already at positive air pressure, something that is usually preferred as it makes it easier to design since then only intake needs filtering.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrGrievous*
> 
> @Unicr0nhunter That you for giving an end depth response lol, I have actually watch practically watched every review out there for Phanteks cases and there new case launch videos multiple times now lol. Now as I was reading your response I actually thought of another question lol. If I fit a in the bottom by cutting the panel in half does the rad take up all the room available, meaning how cramped is it and further more can I fit dual st30mm 280 rads in the front and side lol. Well at least the rear panel radiator option. If someone can post a pic of 420 in the roof from the inside that could answer my question of how cramped it is with the 420. Also rep +1 Unicr0nhunter thankyou.


Here, some pictures of the xt45 420 mm top in push/pull.





The 280 are not supported native in front/side. I went with two 240 mm 30 mm Ocool and still have room to fit a d5 down there:




hope it helps.


----------



## fateswarm

Hrm, if I stick an nh-d15's flow in the direction of the case's flow do I increase the case's flow? I guess I do.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fateswarm*
> 
> Hrm, if I stick an nh-d15's flow in the direction of the case's flow do I increase the case's flow? I guess I do.


you mean in the drive bay? Where? I did place one 140mm in the 5.25 drive bay cage and did help.


----------



## MrGrievous

@Gabrielzm thank you for the excellent pictures, they helped alot. OK final question on the which has me pretty concerned. I'm a college student so mobility is rather important to me since I have to move all of stuff from home to the dorm twice a year. How heavy are your fully liquid cooled machines? I did go through the last 300 pages and saw many of you are using a dolly to move your beast around lol.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrGrievous*
> 
> @Gabrielzm thank you for the excellent pictures, they helped alot. OK final question on the which has me pretty concerned. I'm a college student so mobility is rather important to me since I have to move all of stuff from home to the dorm twice a year. How heavy are your fully liquid cooled machines? I did go through the last 300 pages and saw many of you are using a dolly to move your beast around lol.


it is pretty heavy mate. My rig got more than 2 liters of coolant with a 420 45 mm rad, one 280 60 mm rad and 2x 240 mm 30 mm rads. I can lift it from the base and even move it around the house but it is quite heavy. I would say something around 20 to 25 kg.


----------



## firefoxx04

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrGrievous*
> 
> @Gabrielzm thank you for the excellent pictures, they helped alot. OK final question on the which has me pretty concerned. I'm a college student so mobility is rather important to me since I have to move all of stuff from home to the dorm twice a year. How heavy are your fully liquid cooled machines? I did go through the last 300 pages and saw many of you are using a dolly to move your beast around lol.


I have a lower end setup and its pretty heavy. Single raid and dual 5.25 res. 3 hard drives and two GPUs plus a 750W psu.

The thing is not fun to move around.. If you have hard floor, adding the wheels / castors to the bottom is well worth it.

If you have to move around a lot, why not build a mATX system. Single gpu with large noctua heatsink or something similar. Im all for big and bulky but moving it is just not fun. Its awkward to hold without pushing on the side panels, bottom filters, front panel, top panel.


----------



## fateswarm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> you mean in the drive bay? Where? I did place one 140mm in the 5.25 drive bay cage and did help.


Nah. I mean normally. If my fluid mechanics serves me right pumps in parallel increase flow but in series pressure, though in the case of ..cases I guess it's a combo


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fateswarm*
> 
> Hrm, if I stick an nh-d15's flow in the direction of the case's flow do I increase the case's flow? I guess I do.


They are 2 different airflow systems.

The case fans flow air though the case.
The NH-D15 fans flow air though the cooler toward back exhaust vent / fan.
Sometimes the heated cooler exhaust is captured by rear vent and exits case.
Sometimes not all heated cooler exhaust exits case and instead circles around inside of case warming the case air a/ cooler intake air.and therefore the CPU temps are higher.

Having a rear exhaust fan that flows as much or more air than cooler fans usually avoids this problem.
Another way is to duct the cooler exhaust to back vent.
(click on image to enlarge)


----------



## fateswarm

Hrm, the ducting is an interesting idea, thanks. It must work. Well, unless I want the GPUs or VRM getting some of their air mixed.

I guess the fan of the exhaust only has to have equal or more flow there, not pressure. Hrm, those beasts have 115.5 and the PH-F140SP 82.1. The PH-F200SP has 110.

Hah, I may create negative pressure with that contraption . But I guess if it's not ducted, the extra will be mainly spent mixing the air in the case.

I should buy a boat an extra small fan.


----------



## fateswarm

Ideally I probably need two small fans, an inflow and an exhaust, to increase the total flow above noctua, and to keep the pressure positive.


----------



## chrisnyc75

Just out of curiosity -- have any of you experienced electrical issues with your system since building in the EP? I've been having a very odd electrical failure with my system recently (system fails and loses power before it even attempts to POST), and it's been suggested that it could possibly be a grounding/shorting issue with the motherboard mounting points in the chassis (seems like a longshot to me, but stranger things have happened). Just wondering if anybody else has run into anything similar in their EP build?


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fateswarm*
> 
> Hrm, the ducting is an interesting idea, thanks. It must work. Well, unless I want the GPUs or VRM getting some of their air mixed.
> 
> I guess the fan of the exhaust only has to have equal or more flow there, not pressure. Hrm, those beasts have 115.5 and the PH-F140SP 82.1. The PH-F200SP has 110.
> 
> Hah, I may create negative pressure with that contraption . But I guess if it's not ducted, the extra will be mainly spent mixing the air in the case.
> 
> I should buy a boat an extra small fan.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fateswarm*
> 
> Ideally I probably need two small fans, an inflow and an exhaust, to increase the total flow above noctua, and to keep the pressure positive.


Square duct out back the mobo side is open. Notice the I/O shield / panel is removed too for airflow over mobo components. Doing this with open back means no exhaust fan is needed. Cooler fans move the air on out of case.









Remove all unused PCI-E back slot covers to help front to back airflow below GPU.

As the CPU heat increases the fans speed up and airflow increases.. meaning the need for more case airflow to match cooler airflow. With the Phanteks PWM controlled 3-pin fan hub you can control the case fans to do that.

If you do the duct idea, you could use the F140SP as a second intake in top in front most position. This will supply additional cool air to CPU intake.

Or get another F140SP from Newegg while on sale to use as a second intake.. or 2 extra F140SP fans; 1 up top and 1 in bottom as intakes. There is plenty of vent area in case to let the air out no problem.. and with fan hub to control them there should be no noise problems.


----------



## fateswarm

Yes. I had that idea after I posted. Don't use the exhaust fan at all. By moving it elsewhere as intake it adds to the positive pressure and flow.

I may not move to removing other compartments if that's enough. Hrm. I also turn off my computers so yeah, that's important.

I should probably relocate the fan somewhere underneath, somewhere in middle. Though it might be ideal if it fitted in front.


----------



## MrGrievous

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chrisnyc75*
> 
> Just out of curiosity -- have any of you experienced electrical issues with your system since building in the EP? I've been having a very odd electrical failure with my system recently (system fails and loses power before it even attempts to POST), and it's been suggested that it could possibly be a grounding/shorting issue with the motherboard mounting points in the chassis (seems like a longshot to me, but stranger things have happened). Just wondering if anybody else has run into anything similar in their EP build?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> it is pretty heavy mate. My rig got more than 2 liters of coolant with a 420 45 mm rad, one 280 60 mm rad and 2x 240 mm 30 mm rads. I can lift it from the base and even move it around the house but it is quite heavy. I would say something around 20 to 25 kg.


I dont own a Primo yet but it may also be possible that your psu could be the culprit, but i could be wrong too lol.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> it is pretty heavy mate. My rig got more than 2 liters of coolant with a 420 45 mm rad, one 280 60 mm rad and 2x 240 mm 30 mm rads. I can lift it from the base and even move it around the house but it is quite heavy. I would say something around 20 to 25 kg.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *firefoxx04*
> 
> I have a lower end setup and its pretty heavy. Single raid and dual 5.25 res. 3 hard drives and two GPUs plus a 750W psu.
> 
> The thing is not fun to move around.. If you have hard floor, adding the wheels / castors to the bottom is well worth it.
> 
> If you have to move around a lot, why not build a mATX system. Single gpu with large noctua heatsink or something similar. Im all for big and bulky but moving it is just not fun. Its awkward to hold without pushing on the side panels, bottom filters, front panel, top panel.


Thanks for your input you two, and the main problem I am having is that I literally have all of the components for my build minus the case and choose a atx mobo and as much as I would like to hold out and get the mini xl case I doubt it can fit a atx mobo as it is a mini case plus it'll no doubt be released pass my deadline. Guess Ill hold a bit more and wait for the Luxe to drop







that would not only be a cheaper build in the end but also should be lighter as well


----------



## chrisnyc75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrGrievous*
> 
> I dont own a Primo yet but it may also be possible that your psu could be the culprit, but i could be wrong too lol.


Yeah, I've done exhaustive troubleshooting already -- it's either a failing power relay, burnt out circuit on the mobo, or a dead cpu. The only other possibility is that the chassis mount is causing a short, which I can't really test without breaking down the whole system and rebuilding it on a bench or in another chassis. Just wondered if anybody else with an EP had experienced anything similar since it's the one explanation I haven't ruled out yet.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chrisnyc75*
> 
> Yeah, I've done exhaustive troubleshooting already -- it's either a failing power relay, burnt out circuit on the mobo, or a dead cpu. The only other possibility is that the chassis mount is causing a short, which I can't really test without breaking down the whole system and rebuilding it on a bench or in another chassis. Just wondered if anybody else with an EP had experienced anything similar since it's the one explanation I haven't ruled out yet.


It is a possibility mate. I take you are using a RIVE or RIVE black board? The holes are standard atx despite the odd width of the board. Unless while assembling you changed any of the factory default mounting points I can't see how the board would short due to this. Did you recall changing or adding any mounting points?


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fateswarm*
> 
> Yes. I had that idea after I posted. Don't use the exhaust fan at all. By moving it elsewhere as intake it adds to the positive pressure and flow.
> 
> I may not move to removing other compartments if that's enough. Hrm. I also turn off my computers so yeah, that's important.
> 
> I should probably relocate the fan somewhere underneath, somewhere in middle. Though it might be ideal if it fitted in front.


I see it as where you need the most cool air. A fan in 3x 5.25" bays is ideal as it flows straight to NH-D15.
Next best for NH-D15 is top vent's fan mount closest to front of case.

Bottom just in front of PSU is best for additional cool air to GPU, but we do not want to move air from around GPU up because it will already be heated by GPU exhaust. .. meaning warmer air to NH-D15.

This is why I suggested 1 or 2 additional fans.








Newegg has PH-F140SP_BK for $9.99 and free delivery. Very good price for a great fan
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835709023&cm_re=f140sp-_-35-709-023-_-Product


----------



## fateswarm

Ah! I forgot to ask. You said those 3 pin fans can be controlled by the PWM hub, but isn't the hub mainly for PWM and it would make those non-PWM 3-pin fans run at full speed?

Thanks for the suggestions.


----------



## chrisnyc75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> It is a possibility mate. I take you are using a RIVE or RIVE black board? The holes are standard atx despite the odd width of the board. Unless while assembling you changed any of the factory default mounting points I can't see how the board would short due to this. Did you recall changing or adding any mounting points?


RIVE. I don't *recall* changing any of the mounting points, but it's possible I may have at some point. Anyway, if nobody else has had any similar problem with an EP build then it's probably not the problem I'm having -- which is good. Just wanted to check in case this was some kind of "known issue" that had eluded me. I have a new motherboard on the way, hopefully it was just a blown circuit on my RIVE and swapping it out for a new board will do the trick.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fateswarm*
> 
> Ah! I forgot to ask. You said those 3 pin fans can be controlled by the PWM hub, but isn't the hub mainly for PWM and it would make those non-PWM 3-pin fans run at full speed?
> 
> Thanks for the suggestions.


the Phanteks PWM controlled 3-pin hub is for 3 pin fans. Simple as that. It is not a PWM splitter hub like Swiftech sells.
Phanteks PWM controlled 3-pin fan hub.
From Enthoo Pro manual, page 30


and if you can't read it, I copied it here

*18. PWM FAN HUB INSTALLATION*

The PWM hub functions optimally when modulated by a PWM signal from the motherboard, which will all the greatest control range. However, not all 4-pin motherboard connectors implement the PWM signal modulation.
*
Connecting the 4-pin to CPU_FAN*
For full PWM functionality, Phanteks' PWM hub requires users to connect the 4-pin connector to the "CPU_Fan" connector of the motherboard, because all motherboard manufacturers implements a PWM signal modulation on this connector. Connect the SATA 12V power to power the PWM hub. Not all motherboards have their CPU_Fan connector set on PWM signal modulation by default. Please consult your motherboard documentation for this matter.

*Connecting the 4-pin to other 4-pin header (besides the CPU_Fan)*
Other 4-pon connectors can be found on modern motherboards besides the "CPU_Fan" connector (e.g. "CPU_Fan2", "CHA_FAn", "OPT_Fan"), however not all motherboard manufacturers implement a true PWM signal modulation onto these connectors. These type of 4-pin connectors modulate the RPM by voltage, which has a smaller control range compared to modulation by true PWM signal.

The 12v SATA power cable can not be used to power the PWM hub if connecting to these types of 4-pin connectors, due to the interference with the RPM regulation by voltage (resulting in the fans running on full RPM). The PWM hub will draw it's power from the 4-pin connector, which is limited to a total device consuming 30W in total.

_Important Note:
1 motherboard connector can only read 1 RPM signal. Therefore, the motherboard will only read the RPM signal from1 device connected to FAN 1. The RPM from all other devices will be regulated according to FAN 1. Y-splitter should not be connected to FAN 1._


----------



## fateswarm

Can I use the voltage regulated headers of gigabyte on the fans, each one on its own header (without them running at full speed)? Because if I recall correctly I only have PWM on the cpu header, the opt header is also non-pwm, like the rest headers (there's also one that is always running at 12v non-pwm, but that's irrelevant).


----------



## firefoxx04

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fateswarm*
> 
> Can I use the voltage regulated headers of gigabyte on the fans, each one on its own header (without them running at full speed)? Because if I recall correctly I only have PWM on the cpu header, the opt header is also non-pwm, like the rest headers (there's also one that is always running at 12v non-pwm, but that's irrelevant).


you have to get a signal from the cpu header and it has to be a real pwm signal. If you dont, the hub will not work.

Right now, I dont have PWM so Im running two 3pin fans off the hug without external power from molex or sata power connector. My board is adjusting voltage to the hug to control the fans. If I add too many fans, ill be requiring too much power for the boards fan header.


----------



## Wezzor

Hello!
I just ordered the Phanteks Enthoo Pro. I ended up here because I'm a bit unsure how to get good cooling performance in this case without spending to much money. My idea was to go for positive air pressure. This was my idea: Replace the 200mm fan that comes with the case with an Coolermaster Meglaflow 200mm and also add on more Coolermaster Megaflow 200mm at the top as intake fan. I would also add a 120mm fan hdd bay I guess it's called? and a 140mm at the bottom and all of them will be intake fans. I'll just leave the 140mm at the rear as exhaust. Does this sound like a good idea? I guess it's enough with saying that I got a Noctua NH-D15 as CPU cooler and a Sapphire R9 290 Tri-X as GPU. I can add other components if it does matter.








I could also add that I'll remove both of the HDD cages.


----------



## firefoxx04

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wezzor*
> 
> Hello!
> I just ordered the Phanteks Enthoo Pro. I ended up here because I'm a bit unsure how to get good cooling performance in this case without spending to much money. My idea was to go for positive air pressure. This was my idea: Replace the 200mm fan that comes with the case with an Coolermaster Meglaflow 200mm and also add on more Coolermaster Megaflow 200mm at the top as intake fan. I would also add a 120mm fan hdd bay I guess it's called? and a 140mm at the bottom and all of them will be intake fans. I'll just leave the 140mm at the rear as exhaust. Does this sound like a good idea? I guess it's enough with saying that I got a Noctua NH-D15 as CPU cooler and a Sapphire R9 290 Tri-X as GPU. I can add other components if it does matter.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I could also add that I'll remove both of the HDD cages.


I would not use a top fan as an intake fan. You might also hold off on replacing the front 200mm fan, it flows a good amount of air.

I run the front 200mm fan plus 120mm fans (two of them) on the HDD cages. This gets me a good amount of intake flow. For exhaust I have the stock 140mm fan and two 120mm fans on a radiator.

If you are air cooling, just run the single 140mm exhaust fan in the rear and a large cpu heatsink pointing toward that exhaust fan. You can always add fans to the top but im not sure you would want them as intakes. The top can fit up to 3 140mm fans or 1 200mm fan or 120mm fans.

The bottom fan placement will work if you want to sacrifice the power supply cover, im not sure how much it will help, however.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fateswarm*
> 
> Can I use the voltage regulated headers of gigabyte on the fans, each one on its own header (without them running at full speed)? Because if I recall correctly I only have PWM on the cpu header, the opt header is also non-pwm, like the rest headers (there's also one that is always running at 12v non-pwm, but that's irrelevant).


Yes, you can use them to power the case fans. You can run more than one, but not more than about 10watts total on each header. You could also get a simple PWM splitter like the one that comes with cooler and use it for PWM signal to PWM controlled fan hub.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wezzor*
> 
> Hello!
> I just ordered the Phanteks Enthoo Pro. I ended up here because I'm a bit unsure how to get good cooling performance in this case without spending to much money. My idea was to go for positive air pressure. This was my idea: Replace the 200mm fan that comes with the case with an Coolermaster Meglaflow 200mm and also add on more Coolermaster Megaflow 200mm at the top as intake fan. I would also add a 120mm fan hdd bay I guess it's called? and a 140mm at the bottom and all of them will be intake fans. I'll just leave the 140mm at the rear as exhaust. Does this sound like a good idea? I guess it's enough with saying that I got a Noctua NH-D15 as CPU cooler and a Sapphire R9 290 Tri-X as GPU. I can add other components if it does matter.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I could also add that I'll remove both of the HDD cages.


Why not use the supplied fans and get a couple more PH-F140SP fans like the rear on included? Newegg has them on special for $9.99 each including delivery.


----------



## fateswarm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Yes, you can use them to power the case fans. You can run more than one, but not more than about 10watts total on each header. You could also get a simple PWM splitter like the one that comes with cooler and use it for PWM signal to PWM controlled fan hub.


I thought of that but the second heatsink fan is pwm.


----------



## firefoxx04

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fateswarm*
> 
> I thought of that but the second heatsink fan is pwm.


just dont use the included fan controller. its more geared toward watercooling setups where the radiator fans are 3pin voltage fans. It lets you run voltage fans off a pwm signal.

You can hook 4pin fans to the phantek controller and control the controller with the cpu pwm header. Do that and connect up to 4 more fans to the controller.


----------



## Wezzor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Yes, you can use them to power the case fans. You can run more than one, but not more than about 10watts total on each header. You could also get a simple PWM splitter like the one that comes with cooler and use it for PWM signal to PWM controlled fan hub.
> Why not use the supplied fans and get a couple more PH-F140SP fans like the rear on included? Newegg has them on special for $9.99 each including delivery.


Well, the problem is that I live in Europe.







But do you think it would work fine? I guess I could leave the supplied 200mm and perhaps add one of coolermasters megaflow at top? and x1 140mm at the bottom and 120mm fan on the hdd bay and all as intake.

EDIT: I qouted the wrong post







was meant to doyll.


----------



## fateswarm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *firefoxx04*
> 
> just dont use the included fan controller. its more geared toward watercooling setups where the radiator fans are 3pin voltage fans. It lets you run voltage fans off a pwm signal.


Are there boards with no headers that can do voltage regulation? Because it's the only reason I can think of that lead them to use a pwm header to control voltage speed controlled fans.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wezzor*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Yes, you can use them to power the case fans. You can run more than one, but not more than about 10watts total on each header. You could also get a simple PWM splitter like the one that comes with cooler and use it for PWM signal to PWM controlled fan hub.
> Why not use the supplied fans and get a couple more PH-F140SP fans like the rear on included? Newegg has them on special for $9.99 each including delivery.
> 
> 
> 
> Well, the problem is that I live in Europe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But do you think it would work fine? I guess I could leave the supplied 200mm and perhaps add one of coolermasters megaflow at top? and x1 140mm at the bottom and 120mm fan on the hdd bay and all as intake.
> 
> EDIT: I qouted the wrong post
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> was meant to doyll.
Click to expand...

Ah, okay. I'm in UK myself. Here the best values is Thermalright TY-147 fans for £5.87.
Do you already have the Megaflows?


----------



## firefoxx04

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fateswarm*
> 
> Are there boards with no headers that can do voltage regulation? Because it's the only reason I can think of that lead them to use a pwm header to control voltage speed controlled fans.


using PWM instead of voltage is a better way to control fans

Lots of nice fans on the market are available in 3pin voltage control and are cheaper than their 4pin pwm counterparts.

The controller uses the PWM signal from the CPU pwm header to get the correct pwm values and it pulses the 12v power going to the 3pin fans. It takes 3pin fans and makes them work like 4pin pwm fans. This is all outlined in the manuals for both the primo and pro cases.


----------



## fateswarm

Pulses it for non-pwm fans? Interesting.


----------



## Wezzor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Ah, okay. I'm in UK myself. Here the best values is Thermalright TY-147 fans for £5.87 Do you already have the Megaflows?.


Nope I haven't bought them yet. Don't worry mate I'll fix nice 3-pins fans for a nice price.







What I need to know is how I should place the fans in the case in your opinion.


----------



## fateswarm

I don't see the pulsing info on the manual. But it's possible. Wouldn't it make some non-pwm fans click though?


----------



## Krahe

Quick question, does it come with a 4pin cable for CPU_fan to hub 4pin? Or should I order one?


----------



## firefoxx04

the controller comes with a cable to connect to the motherboard 4pin and it also comes with a power supply connector to accept sata or molex depending on what case you buy. The primo came with a molex and the pro has sata but they might switch the primo to sata at some point, just a guess.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fateswarm*
> 
> I don't see the pulsing info on the manual. But it's possible. Wouldn't it make some non-pwm fans click though?


They dont really detail it too much but it deff runs off a pwm signal because it accepts a constant 12v supply from the sata/molex connector and still controls fan speed. It uses fan 1 as a control fan to monitor rpm. The motherboard sees fan 1 but not the rest of the fans.

the way the controller works is not a new design by any means, its been done before I think.


----------



## Krahe

Ok thx for that, my EP has shipped hopefully it arrives today.


----------



## jdsb52

Guys, what do you think the best fan setup is for the primo, im using 5 areocool shark devils (x3 140 and x2 120) and the 5 phanteks fans, my aerocools are max 1500rpm with the same cfm and static pressure as the phanteks ones, currently i got one 140 aerocool exhaust at top-back, 3 of the phanteks ones on the top exhausting, two of the phanteks at the bottom intaking, and the reaming 2 aerocool 140's doing front intake, with the 2 120's on the hdd cages pulling the air though? anyone reckon i should take the 120's off and put them on my Ximagtek Ageir cpu cooler in push pull and remove one of the hdd bays?


----------



## rpjkw11

I'm using the stock 140s and original fan placement that came with my first Primo. However, I removed _both_ HDD cages and installed my sole HDD in the ODD bay (brackets are inexpensive and readily available). Two SSDs are mounted behind the mobo tray and the third on the "floor" behind the shroud. Without the HDD cages, airflow from the front two fans is practically unimpeded. Airflow from the bottom fan (I've debated adding a second fan) cools my GTX 780Ti satisfactorily. The top and rear fans (I've debated adding one or two more top fans) serve nicely as exhaust. I'm an Airhead using a Phanteks TC-14PE CPU cooler. General airflow is very good as I've not had any cooling issues of any kind, even with a 4.1OC on my 4770K. What I'm most happy with is how quiet everything is, which is why I've been reluctant to install additional fans.

I have a second Primo, a white one, that I'll use as soon as my 17 4790K gets here. That rig will use a new Noctua NH-DH15 CPU cooler and I'm thinking of experimenting with additional Noctua or Cryorig case fans. And I'm especially curious possible improvement by adding an intake fan to the right panel.


----------



## jdsb52

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rpjkw11*
> 
> I'm using the stock 140s and original fan placement that came with my first Primo. However, I removed _both_ HDD cages and installed my sole HDD in the ODD bay (brackets are inexpensive and readily available). Two SSDs are mounted behind the mobo tray and the third on the "floor" behind the shroud. Without the HDD cages, airflow from the front two fans is practically unimpeded. Airflow from the bottom fan (I've debated adding a second fan) cools my GTX 780Ti satisfactorily. The top and rear fans (I've debated adding one or two more top fans) serve nicely as exhaust. I'm an Airhead using a Phanteks TC-14PE CPU cooler. General airflow is very good as I've not had any cooling issues of any kind, even with a 4.1OC on my 4770K. What I'm most happy with is how quiet everything is, which is why I've been reluctant to install additional fans.
> 
> I have a second Primo, a white one, that I'll use as soon as my 17 4790K gets here. That rig will use a new Noctua NH-DH15 CPU cooler and I'm thinking of experimenting with additional Noctua or Cryorig case fans. And I'm especially curious possible improvement by adding an intake fan to the right panel.


i still got the stock fan on my cooler, that runs up to 2200rpm but not sure wht the cfm and static are, might give my 2 120s a go on there with the panels on and i take it u got all 2.5" drives, i got a 3.5 HDD currently so the bottom cage will have to stay, looks like its just gonna be about testing as many configs as possible, once i get 4970k with a nepton 280L i might just have to worry about cooling my 770 only!


----------



## rpjkw11

My HDD is 3.5, but with extra hardware, it fits nicely in one bay. Installed on the floor works well, too.

I've been considering an AIO, looking the Nepton 280, Swiftech H 320 kit, or the 240 Glacer. With all the headroom the Primo offers, a radiator with triple 120s, while overkill, is intriguing.

All sorts of options are available these days and that's nice.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rpjkw11*
> 
> My HDD is 3.5, but with extra hardware, it fits nicely in one bay. Installed on the floor works well, too.
> 
> I've been considering an AIO, looking the Nepton 280, Swiftech H 320 kit, or the 240 Glacer. With all the headroom the Primo offers, a radiator with triple 120s, while overkill, is intriguing.
> 
> All sorts of options are available these days and that's nice.


Wait 2 more weeks and go with the new Swiftech kit with improved pump. Don't go with the h320 r the 240 glacer at this point. It is called 220x if I recall correctly and comes with reservoir, rad, cpu block and pump.

just mine 2 cents.


----------



## jdsb52

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Wait 2 more weeks and go with the new Swiftech kit with improved pump. Don't go with the h320 r the 240 glacer at this point. It is called 220x if I recall correctly and comes with reservoir, rad, cpu block and pump.
> 
> just mine 2 cents.


Whats swifttechs new kits?? and are they able to take 140 fans, i dont really 120s that much haha, and the neptons cool, top perfomer out there right now, but now got Kraken X61 coming and now more swiftechs!


----------



## Gabrielzm

Just google swiftech h220x and you will see tons of information and pictures. Is a good looking kit and the pump might or not be a great new design. It a new design by swiftech and will be offered as a stand alone pump. We still need good independent reviews on the pump to known how good it would perform.

http://www.anandtech.com/show/7662/swiftech-enhanced-liquidcooling-options

some pictures of the new stuff. You can see the soon to lanched 2x120 mm rads as well as a prototype of the 2x140 mm rad.


----------



## rpjkw11

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Wait 2 more weeks and go with the new Swiftech kit with improved pump. Don't go with the h320 r the 240 glacer at this point. It is called 220x if I recall correctly and comes with reservoir, rad, cpu block and pump.
> 
> just mine 2 cents.


Thanks for the info! There's plenty of time as I'm still debating with myself of staying with air or trying water. One thought keeps resounding in my head: Air doesn't short things out like H20. That's my sole misgiving and it's a major one. Especially given that air cooling provides more than adequate temps.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jdsb52*
> 
> Whats swifttechs new kits?? and are they able to take 140 fans, i dont really 120s that much haha, and the neptons cool, top perfomer out there right now, but now got Kraken X61 coming and now more swiftechs!


This one on i7 4770K @ 4.4GHz

http://hitechlegion.com/reviews/cooling/liquid/37574-cm-glacer240l

and here
http://www.pcper.com/reviews/Cases-and-Cooling/Cooler-Master-Glacer-240L-All-One-Liquid-Cooler-Review/Cooler-Comparison-T

It is actually as good as top air coolers.


----------



## jdsb52

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Just google swiftech h220x and you will see tons of information and pictures. Is a good looking kit and the pump might or not be a great new design. It a new design by swiftech and will be offered as a stand alone pump. We still need good independent reviews on the pump to known how good it would perform.
> 
> http://www.anandtech.com/show/7662/swiftech-enhanced-liquidcooling-options
> 
> some pictures of the new stuff. You can see the soon to lanched 2x120 mm rads as well as a prototype of the 2x140 mm rad.


ahh the x was typing the wrong thing, thanks, shame about the 140s not being ready tho!


----------



## jdsb52

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> This one on i7 4770K @ 4.4GHz
> 
> http://hitechlegion.com/reviews/cooling/liquid/37574-cm-glacer240l
> 
> and here
> http://www.pcper.com/reviews/Cases-and-Cooling/Cooler-Master-Glacer-240L-All-One-Liquid-Cooler-Review/Cooler-Comparison-T
> 
> It is actually as good as top air coolers.


And hard to get the Glacer in the UK, besides in one of my threads on the Linus forums coolermaster stated the the Neptons replaced the Glacer and its listed as discontinued on their site. Also the Neptons rad is all copper!

and http://www.anandtech.com/show/7738/closed-loop-aio-liquid-coolers (As Of Feb 2014)


----------



## setter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> This one on i7 4770K @ 4.4GHz
> 
> http://hitechlegion.com/reviews/cooling/liquid/37574-cm-glacer240l
> 
> and here
> http://www.pcper.com/reviews/Cases-and-Cooling/Cooler-Master-Glacer-240L-All-One-Liquid-Cooler-Review/Cooler-Comparison-T
> 
> It is actually as good as top air coolers.


Must be a cherry picked cpu there, good low voltage and possibly delidded. Temps on theese chips are usually insane with synthetic stress tests. Even in games under a k2 @4.5ghz, mine gets to the late 70's hence im moving to a 4790k.


----------



## Krahe

Got and email saying my EP is awaiting pick up at the post office, hopefully get some time of work to pick up today.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jdsb52*
> 
> And hard to get the Glacer in the UK, besides in one of my threads on the Linus forums coolermaster stated the the Neptons replaced the Glacer and its listed as discontinued on their site. Also the Neptons rad is all copper!
> 
> and http://www.anandtech.com/show/7738/closed-loop-aio-liquid-coolers (As Of Feb 2014)


Thank! will read it later.


----------



## firefoxx04

Newegg's 140 Phanteks fans are $15 now









Amazon still has them for $10. I should have jumped on them when I thought about it.


----------



## llthim

Just got my phanteks enthoo pro yesterday. I would like to ask about the psu bracket. Do any1 of you facing problem to put the bracket back in place?


----------



## firefoxx04

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *llthim*
> 
> Just got my phanteks enthoo pro yesterday. I would like to ask about the psu bracket. Do any1 of you facing problem to put the bracket back in place?


I did at first but now its fine. I think you just need to get it once to figure it out. Obviously it wont play nice if you have cables in the way.


----------



## hanaxxaru

i also got my enthoo pro yesterday.. the problem is, the painting looks like easy to scratch.. and kinda have problem when inserting dvd drive.. the tool-less seem can't lock the dvd drive properly..

but for 99.99, it is really the best.. spacey, neat, full of features and the stock fans are strong, whiny and comfortable noise..


----------



## doyll

I think the F140HP is best ran a few hundred rpm below is maximum speed. Much quieter that way... and of course PWM controlled 3-pin fan hub makes it easy to control fan speed.


----------



## llthim

Finally I figured out how to put back the psu bracket


----------



## Krahe

Got mine today, love it....but its big, was expecting big....but its big as in my desk now needs modding as well.


----------



## Krahe

Has anyone removed the optical drive bay, mine looks like its riveted in?


----------



## firefoxx04

I have not tried. Everything is supposed to come out.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krahe*
> 
> Got mine today, love it....but its big, was expecting big....but its big as in my desk now needs modding as well.


My desk has a bed / loft above it. I can no longer set my desktop on the desk because its so tall that it forms a heat pocket from the top radiator


----------



## doyll

Please keep in mind we have both Enthoo Primo owners and Enthoo Pro owners here. It's helpful to say which your case is.


----------



## Krahe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Please keep in mind we have both Enthoo Primo owners and Enthoo Pro owners here. It's helpful to say which your case is.


Apologies Doyll, mines the Primo, I watched a utube vid where they removed the bays and said they were held in with screws, it must of been for the Pro as you said.


----------



## MrGrievous

So while I am waiting for the white Luxe to drop I want to ask those with more experience how long is to long to run a system on top of the motherboard box? This is currently how my system sits right now? Thsi is my first build I've done and still have lots to learn lol.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrGrievous*
> 
> So while I am waiting for the white Luxe to drop I want to ask those with more experience how long is to long to run a system on top of the motherboard box? This is currently how my system sits right now? Thsi is my first build I've done and still have lots to learn lol.


As long as you want. I ran one for over a year before I finally built a test stand for it.


----------



## kishagi

So heres my issue, before I spend all my money on the Steam Summer Sales, I want to get the Enthoo Mini XL. BUT the Mini XL isnt out yet, so should I just:

- buy the Enthoo Pro
- sell my ASRock Sabertooth 990FX GEN3/R2 (which Im using as a server board right now)
- move my ASRock Fatal1ty Z77 Professional-M mobo into the Enthoo Pro
- buy a ATX Z77 mobo (i saw this ASRock Fatal1ty Z77 Professional with bent socket pins that im pretty sure i can fix & some refurbished MSI Z77 MPower's on EBAY)

or
-just wait even more

Thanks for your input!!!


----------



## GOLDDUBBY

If you wait more, maybe then you'll be stuck with building your systems while you really want to be gaming from steam sale


----------



## MrGrievous

Or you can just use your mobo box like I am until the mini xl releases


----------



## zoneuk

I was thinking of getting the primo in white but most places are out of stock the that have it are charging £240, Ive managed to find the black on offer for £150 in not sure if i should get the black on offer or wait and hope the white comes on offer.


----------



## Xithel

I always go with black on electronics. Colors like white and silver tend to go out of style and make it hard to buy matching components.


----------



## fateswarm

Pure white is better but it's very high maintenance to keep clean. And if plastic is burned in places, it might be irreparable.


----------



## rpjkw11

I love white cases! Long ago I was so happy when black became popular as I hated the ubiquitous "putty" color used on everything. I quickly learned nlack is horrible for showing dust, dirt, and fingerprints. I made the switch to only white cases, where possible, and never looked back.

That's why I bought a second Primo when they came out, I wanted white and it really "dresses up" the Enthoo Primo! For general cleaning, Windex or 409 sprayed directly on a soft cloth does a good job eliminating fingerprints. My wife uses some little cleaning pads, Mister Clean I think, that work great. I've used them on pc cases with no damage to paint or plastic. They do wonders to scuff marks and stains and. most of all, yellowing if attacked early on.


----------



## cgull

I like both kinds 'country and western' . I mean black or white. In some cases (ahem) white can look a little appliancy ( as in whitegoods) but with the right accents it can look awesome.. loving my white primo


----------



## bond32

Got the Enthoo Pro on it's way... Sold my primo a few months ago just because it was too big. I can't pass up the enthoo pro at it's price, plus offers much more functionality over my current carbide 540 case.


----------



## austinmrs

Wow the Phanteks Enthoo Pro for 99$?

This is the best case i will get for the price, right? Currently on a Fractal Arc Midi R2.


----------



## firefoxx04

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *austinmrs*
> 
> Wow the Phanteks Enthoo Pro for 99$?
> 
> This is the best case i will get for the price, right? Currently on a Fractal Arc Midi R2.


I bought the pro because I felt it was the best offering at its price. Fan controller, psu cover, tool kit, modular design. Whats not to like?


----------



## MrGrievous

For the features the pro packs yes it is an awesome steal, makes you wonder if Phanteks is even making any money from it lol.


----------



## fateswarm

Yeah that's why I'm afraid they're out of stock lol.


----------



## bond32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fateswarm*
> 
> Yeah that's why I'm afraid they're out of stock lol.


Ordered mine from newegg today... They had them at $99, free shipping. Amazon said few weeks away from stocking and still had to pay tax at amazon.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *austinmrs*
> 
> Wow the Phanteks Enthoo Pro for 99$?
> 
> This is the best case i will get for the price, right? Currently on a Fractal Arc Midi R2.


I do not know of another case with as many features for anywhere near the same price.


----------



## fateswarm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> Ordered mine from newegg today... They had them at $99, free shipping. Amazon said few weeks away from stocking and still had to pay tax at amazon.


It's impossible to find one in europe. My order says 27 June. Let's see.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fateswarm*
> 
> It's impossible to find one in europe. My order says 27 June. Let's see.


Same way it was with the Primo. They became available in the US about a month before they hit Europe. That seems to be pretty typical for larger-sized goods made in Asia to get to market. Your Euro-bound cases have probably been floating on some container ship for the past few weeks, and if their going to make it to retail by that June 27 date they hopefully have already made their way through port.

Any guesses as to how long before the Mini XL and the EVOLV actually show up for sale anywhere?
If anyone's starting a pool put me down for the end of Aug / beginning of Sept.


----------



## Redspeed93

Finally got my Enthoo Primo build done as well. It took me months to find a white Primo that wasn't much more expensive than the black version, but I finally found one and It's AWESOME


----------



## austinmrs

Guys what about the Enthoo Pro vs the nzxt h440? They are about the same price here.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *austinmrs*
> 
> Guys what about the Enthoo Pro vs the nzxt h440? They are about the same price here.


Nice case but I would still go with the Phanteks. What can I say we are suspicious bunch on this thread when it comes to Enthoo line







I have cases now from both companies and personally I prefer the build quality and design from Phanteks.


----------



## austinmrs

Yeah, i think i will go with the Enthoo Pro. The Nxzt H440 have such a restricted airflow on the front and on the top.. :/


----------



## rpjkw11

I'm far more interested in the announced, but yet to be released, Luxe. I own two Primos, but I'll sell the black one to buy a white Luxe. As nice as the Pro is, it's too small for my taste; the Luxe just barely makes the cut. The Mini XL and Evolv don't do a thing for me.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rpjkw11*
> 
> I'm far more interested in the announced, but yet to be released, Luxe. I own two Primos, but I'll sell the black one to buy a white Luxe. As nice as the Pro is, it's too small for my taste; the Luxe just barely makes the cut. The Mini XL and Evolv don't do a thing for me.


Hmmm, I totally forgot about the Luxe. For some reason I was thinking the Pro was the same case. They definitely are very similar. Given how long ago Phanteks announced the Luxe I'm surprised it's not out already, but also given that Phanteks didn't release a video(s) about the Pro 



 and now 



 and 



 I have to wonder if the Pro might not actually be what was the Luxe that was just renamed after a few last minute design changes for whatever the reason.

Edit:
OK scratch all that. I forgot they did announce the cases together and show differences between them.






Soo where the heck is the Luxe? That was 6 months ago. At that rate the Mini XL and EVOLV might not make it here until 2015.


----------



## austinmrs

From what i saw, the Luxe and the Pro are almost the same..

The Luxe have light and the front grill is different, a few bigger than the pro, but other than that, they seem very similar.

I think the Luxe is better build, with better material, and will be more expensive, while the pro only costs 100$


----------



## fateswarm

I prefer the Pro. I like the front of the Pro. It's Ironic that I like it so much, I think I would probably prefer it over primo given a free choice.


----------



## austinmrs

And looking at the Pro, and like a Corsair Graphite 760T, whick is like 80$ more expensive than the Pro, i still think the Pro is better built, with better features.

But maybe im just crazy.


----------



## MrGrievous

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *austinmrs*
> 
> From what i saw, the Luxe and the Pro are almost the same..
> 
> The Luxe have light and the front grill is different, a few bigger than the pro, but other than that, they seem very similar.
> 
> I think the Luxe is better build, with better material, and will be more expensive, while the pro only costs 100$


Another difference between the two is that the Luxe has a similar top fan filter as the Primo does vs the pro where the entire top needs to be removed to clean it and the front also shares the same characteristic of a removable front filter vs having o remove the entire front.


----------



## austinmrs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrGrievous*
> 
> Another difference between the two is that the Luxe has a similar top fan filter as the Primo does vs the pro where the entire top needs to be removed to clean it and the front also shares the same characteristic of a removable front filter vs having o remove the entire front.


Y but i think the pro have better air flow on the front when compared to the luxe and the primo..


----------



## chrisnyc75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fateswarm*
> 
> Pure white is better but it's very high maintenance to keep clean. And if plastic is burned in places, it might be irreparable.


I've always wanted to a do a pure white build, when done right they're really beautiful. But matching the inner components is tricky and/or very labor intensive. There are a few white pcb gpu's & mobo's out there, but I don't like being limited on my selection by aesthetics rather than features/performance. And I'm not brave enoug to paint a pcb myself. I guess you can always go with a white chassis, fans, & lighting with the usual black/red/blue/etc "guts", but to me that defeats the purpose of going white in the first place.


----------



## fateswarm

While I wait for the ships carrying the Pro to arrive in Europe, I wonder if it's safe to run a motherboard directly on my synthetic/polymer table. It's quite sturdy though it could get burned on temperatures above 100C. But I guess that wouldn't easily happen.


----------



## firefoxx04

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fateswarm*
> 
> While I wait for the ships carrying the Pro to arrive in Europe, I wonder if it's safe to run a motherboard directly on my synthetic/polymer table. It's quite sturdy though it could get burned on temperatures above 100C. But I guess that wouldn't easily happen.


Just use your motherboard box or a piece of cardboard. I know I'm not the first person to do that


----------



## bond32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fateswarm*
> 
> While I wait for the ships carrying the Pro to arrive in Europe, I wonder if it's safe to run a motherboard directly on my synthetic/polymer table. It's quite sturdy though it could get burned on temperatures above 100C. But I guess that wouldn't easily happen.


It's ok to do that, just make sure nothing will short anything out. Also make sure, when you install the video cards, that they aren't causing too much stress on the pcie slots.

I actually was moving stuff out of my old 540 case and set it up on my desk, was bleeding air out of the water loop, had a leak, dried it all, but motherboard was shot. Something happened in that move, killed it. Gave me reason to get the maximus vi extreme now though!


----------



## MrGrievous

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *firefoxx04*
> 
> Just use your motherboard box or a piece of cardboard. I know I'm not the first person to do that


Raises hand* guilty here right now running my system on my mobo box lol


----------



## chrisnyc75

Same thing as a test bench, really, just more "makeshift". Just make sure it's well insulated from any electrical equipment/sources nearby and don't set your coke down next to it -- coke is not a good motherboard coolant.


----------



## MrGrievous

Thought I post that the white Primo is currently $229 usd at Newegg after mail in rebate


----------



## illmatic6596

Been looking into the Pro for some time , I like the fact that they are encouraging the use of water cooling component which I plan on doing in the near future , I am also considering the NZXT Switch 810 , and Corsair Obsidian 750 as potential cases but I got to admit the price point , and aesthetic of the Pro makes it hard to pass up .


----------



## fateswarm

Does anyone know where the "ships" are currently that are bound for europe? I'm seeing 25th june to 2nd july availabilities but I don't know if I should believe it..


----------



## austinmrs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fateswarm*
> 
> Does anyone know where the "ships" are currently that are bound for europe? I'm seeing 25th june to 2nd july availabilities but I don't know if I should believe it..


I cant find it on europe.. Im from portugal, where did you send it from? Amazom.co.uk?


----------



## fateswarm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *austinmrs*
> 
> I cant find it on europe.. Im from portugal, where did you send it from? Amazom.co.uk?


I have it preordered from Athens. Sometimes we get some early availabilities. It's probably because of the Piraeus port (a lot of Chinese products ship there).


----------



## austinmrs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fateswarm*
> 
> I have it preordered from Athens. Sometimes we get some early availabilities. It's probably because of the Piraeus port (a lot of Chinese products ship there).


Cant fint that store.. Athens?


----------



## fateswarm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *austinmrs*
> 
> Cant fint that store.. Athens?


hehe. The city. http://www.e-shop.gr/phanteks-enthoo-pro-midi-tower-black-window-p-PER.812242


----------



## austinmrs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fateswarm*
> 
> hehe. The city. http://www.e-shop.gr/phanteks-enthoo-pro-midi-tower-black-window-p-PER.812242


Oh ****, didnt even remember lol, Its "Atenas" in Portugal.

Do they ship to Portugal? And how much? Cant understand 1 word from the site


----------



## fateswarm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *austinmrs*
> 
> Oh ****, didnt even remember lol, Its "Atenas" in Portugal.
> 
> Do they ship to Portugal? And how much? Cant understand 1 word from the site


They seem to, with HIGH shipping charges (it's a heavy case). But it's probably cheaper and easier to buy from german shops or other.

EU comparison prices: https://geizhals.at/eu/


----------



## austinmrs

Ok i see that is a website where i can see stores that sell that product.

How can i see if they ship to portugal, and the price?

Edit: mindfactory.de seems like they ship to portugal, but 30€ :/ And it would take like 3 weeks maybe?


----------



## stevebit56

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *exyia*
> 
> I would love it, but looks too big for me. I imagine it's even bigger in person than I think - and I already think it looks big in pictures
> 
> but who knows, I might break down and get this case anyway. anxious to see owners/pictures!


It's not as big as the Corsair 900D but it's close I just got the White version and I love it except for a few items one is that the front bay door will only open a little past 90 degrees and is not removable unless you take the front panel off and remove 4 small screws. I would have thought for the price we would have gotten a RGB led controller instead of one color. I would still recommend this case HIGHLY if your on the fence weather to purchase it don't be the build quality is unbelievable this is one of the heaviest cases out there it's even heavier then the 900D


----------



## fateswarm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *austinmrs*
> 
> Edit: mindfactory.de seems like they ship to portugal, but 30€ :/ And it would take like 3 weeks maybe?


The case is so heavy that even sending it in the same country it would cost me more than 25 euros







I ended up ordering to pick it up from the nearest shop.







I will drive for ~150km to avoid the cost.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fateswarm*
> 
> The case is so heavy that even sending it in the same country it would cost me more than 25 euros
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I ended up ordering to pick it up from the nearest shop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I will drive for ~150km to avoid the cost.


I got it from Holland (Highflow) all the way down here to Brazil and cost me 40 euros. I like TNT shipping costs. If was ordering from USA would cost 3x times that in shipping (via USPS).

edit- ops should have said DHL instead of TNT


----------



## austinmrs

Here in Portugal, the ship is cheap. No matter what i buy from any store in Portugal, the cost is low. I always order from 1 shop, and no matter what the size of the thing is, how heavy it is, its always 4€.

I can send like 5 products, if they come at the same time, its only 4€. And if the order is more than 250€, its free the shipping. They make like a contract with the company that delivery the products.

Although, i dont see Enthoo Pro in Portugal stores soon :/

http://www.highflow.nl/

From here dude? Cant fint the Pro there. Been searching for a Store near Portugal, like Spain or France, to buy a Enthoo Pro and dont pay crazy ship costs, but still nothing


----------



## bond32

Enthoo Pro:

Pretty fast shipping... Although it came from fairly close by. Ordered mine from newegg this weekend, it was delivered this morning (free shipping). Didn't have a lot of time as I just took a little lunch, but started putting things together.

I was indeed able to fit a 240mm alphacool st30 in the bottom with my EVGA G2 1300 watt power supply. I connected the cables that would be bumped against the radiator first then mounted the radiator. Have the connections under the 200mm fan, however I may try to flip it provided I can still get the psu shroud on. Worst comes to worst I will just mount it up front but I kinda wanted to maintain that big 200mm fan (only since phanteks actually makes great fans). Might have to remove the 200mm fan to be able to attach hoses to the radiator.

Initial impressions are awesome. The case is a steal for $100, was $109 with tax and free shipping. Build quality is every bit as good as the enthoo primo I used to have. Back side panel is solid and heavy.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *austinmrs*
> 
> Here in Portugal, the ship is cheap. No matter what i buy from any store in Portugal, the cost is low. I always order from 1 shop, and no matter what the size of the thing is, how heavy it is, its always 4€.
> 
> I can send like 5 products, if they come at the same time, its only 4€. And if the order is more than 250€, its free the shipping. They make like a contract with the company that delivery the products.
> 
> Although, i dont see Enthoo Pro in Portugal stores soon :/
> 
> http://www.highflow.nl/
> 
> From here dude? Cant fint the Pro there. Been searching for a Store near Portugal, like Spain or France, to buy a Enthoo Pro and dont pay crazy ship costs, but still nothing


Yep, from there. Pretty good service and cheap efficient post service via DHL.


----------



## fateswarm

The time is drawing near to see if the ETAs for eu were real. Most expire up to 1 July. Rarely they go further.


----------



## bond32

Heres a picture help show you guys the distance from my board to rad. This is an alphacool st30 up top with fans mounted between case and radiator.


----------



## savagepagan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> Heres a picture help show you guys the distance from my board to rad. This is an alphacool st30 up top with fans mounted between case and radiator.


Did you remove the heatsinks from your vrm to increase the space? These mobo companies need to learn that these big ass vrm heatsinks get in the way. In the Enthoo Pro, there is 65mm from the top of the case where the rad is mounted to the top of the motherboard.


----------



## savagepagan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> Enthoo Pro:
> 
> Pretty fast shipping... Although it came from fairly close by. Ordered mine from newegg this weekend, it was delivered this morning (free shipping). Didn't have a lot of time as I just took a little lunch, but started putting things together.
> 
> I was indeed able to fit a 240mm alphacool st30 in the bottom with my EVGA G2 1300 watt power supply. I connected the cables that would be bumped against the radiator first then mounted the radiator. Have the connections under the 200mm fan, however I may try to flip it provided I can still get the psu shroud on. Worst comes to worst I will just mount it up front but I kinda wanted to maintain that big 200mm fan (only since phanteks actually makes great fans). Might have to remove the 200mm fan to be able to attach hoses to the radiator.
> 
> Initial impressions are awesome. The case is a steal for $100, was $109 with tax and free shipping. Build quality is every bit as good as the enthoo primo I used to have. Back side panel is solid and heavy.


Agreed. This case can easily go for $130.


----------



## bond32

No I didn't remove any heatsinks. I won't be able to do anything but one set of fans. The 45mm rads would fit fine. Think the 60 mm might as well. Only one set of fans can be installed regardless the rad thickness (unless you mod the case).

I'm noticing there's an issue with the plastic front. Having troubles fitting my xspc bay reservoir. Seems there is a plastic bump on each side which makes it too narrow for the reservoir. Will have to shave it down a few mm.


----------



## fateswarm

lol.. I was told the main distributor is in Germany so it wouldn't arrive here until mid-July since it might go there end of June. I hope that applies only to that shop.


----------



## firefoxx04

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> No I didn't remove any heatsinks. I won't be able to do anything but one set of fans. The 45mm rads would fit fine. Think the 60 mm might as well. Only one set of fans can be installed regardless the rad thickness (unless you mod the case).
> 
> I'm noticing there's an issue with the plastic front. Having troubles fitting my xspc bay reservoir. Seems there is a plastic bump on each side which makes it too narrow for the reservoir. Will have to shave it down a few mm.


I also cannot fit push pull on the top. Not a big deal. I kind of want to switch to push (currently in pull) and see if its better. The top grill is pretty good at not letting the hot air out.. and the fans are not pressed up against the grill mesh and I think this further increases the issue.

My xspc dual bay res is also not fitting 100% perfect. My DVD drive fits fantastic.


----------



## bond32

I shaved the plastic down on the inside sides of the bays and it fits now. Strange they would mold it like that...


----------



## Perfect_Chaos

Alphacool xt45 360mm looks like it'd be cutting it too close to the motherboard in the Enthoo Pro?

Can a 240mm rad fit in the bottom/front without removing all of the drive cages?


----------



## bond32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Perfect_Chaos*
> 
> Alphacool xt45 360mm looks like it'd be cutting it too close to the motherboard in the Enthoo Pro?
> 
> Can a 240mm rad fit in the bottom/front without removing all of the drive cages?


No, the xt45 360mm will fit just fine in the top. The UT60 series will not. If you look at the picture I posted, there is approx 20mm of space between the first thing it will hit which is the ram locking mechanism. This was with the st30 series and one set of fans. So a 45mm thick rad will fit fine with 5 mm of space to spare. Larger rads will also work however they will need to be offset which would involve modification.

A 240mm will fit in the front but the drive cages will need to be removed. It will fit in the bottom with one of the two drive cages removed, however it is a tight fit with the psu and the water lines. I will post pictures later of how I did it.


----------



## savagepagan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *firefoxx04*
> 
> I also cannot fit push pull on the top. Not a big deal. I kind of want to switch to push (currently in pull) and see if its better. The top grill is pretty good at not letting the hot air out.. and the fans are not pressed up against the grill mesh and I think this further increases the issue.
> 
> My xspc dual bay res is also not fitting 100% perfect. My DVD drive fits fantastic.


I removed the top dust filter that lies under the top grill.


----------



## firefoxx04

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *savagepagan*
> 
> I removed the top dust filter that lies under the top grill.


I did too but its still not that great. I think it would be better if the fans/rad sat flush against the grill and not a 1/4 inch or so away.


----------



## savagepagan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *firefoxx04*
> 
> I did too but its still not that great. I think it would be better if the fans/rad sat flush against the grill and not a 1/4 inch or so away.


The only thing I can suggest is make sure your case is under positive pressure.


----------



## firefoxx04

200mm up front with additional 120 (2) on the drive cages. Rear 140mm with 2 120 on the top rad. the rad fans are not the greatest either. Ill wait until I get a triple 140 up there with nice fans like the 140 that comes with the case.


----------



## savagepagan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *firefoxx04*
> 
> 200mm up front with additional 120 (2) on the drive cages. Rear 140mm with 2 120 on the top rad. the rad fans are not the greatest either. Ill wait until I get a triple 140 up there with nice fans like the 140 that comes with the case.


The PH-F140SP_BK is the 140mm that cam with the case and they were on sale for $9.99 at Newegg and Amazon.


----------



## firefoxx04

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *savagepagan*
> 
> The PH-F140SP_BK is the 140mm that cam with the case and they were on sale for $9.99 at Newegg and Amazon.


yes I saw that. They seem to be back at $16 now unfortunately


----------



## savagepagan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *firefoxx04*
> 
> yes I saw that. They seem to be back at $16 now unfortunately


Be warned though. Those Phanteks come with rubber bumper inlays that stick out and add another 3mm to the fan width so the radiator screws you use may no longer be long enough(if you use washers). If that is the case just remove those vibration dampeners on the side of the fan that is not touching the radiator.


----------



## fateswarm

Daaaarn, my Athens pre-order went on 8 July ETA. On a positive note, my rest components appear to be in town. I guess I'll be running a naked system on the desk for a while.


----------



## savagepagan

They are $9.99 again at newegg!


----------



## GOLDDUBBY

My fans that came with the primo only do on/off ..

They are super quiet, but I don't like fans spinning at max all the time, accumulate so much dust issues.


----------



## bond32

Some pictures of my Enthoo PRO progress:


----------



## Pierre3400

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> Some pictures of my Enthoo PRO progress:


I cant help at getting confused about the 3x GPU's, but only one under water?


----------



## bond32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pierre3400*
> 
> I cant help at getting confused about the 3x GPU's, but only one under water?


Can't afford the other 2 gpu blocks yet... Just dropped over $1000 on it this week alone.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GOLDDUBBY*
> 
> My fans that came with the primo only do on/off ..
> 
> They are super quiet, but I don't like fans spinning at max all the time, accumulate so much dust issues.


How have you got them hooked up?


----------



## Accursed Entity

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> Some pictures of my Enthoo PRO progress:


Looking nice, will you show us pictures of the entire build later on? I'd love to see with the window panel on, gotta love that smoked window.


----------



## bond32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Accursed Entity*
> 
> Looking nice, will you show us pictures of the entire build later on? I'd love to see with the window panel on, gotta love that smoked window.


More pics:


----------



## bond32

Another update : even though the 200mm fan is decent, I actually had 2 spare ap-15's that I decided to put in its place. Also I think it performs better with the side panels on... These large fans seem to blow air outwards rather than in.

So despite replacing the included 2 fans, this case is still awesome.


----------



## austinmrs

IF i buy it, i will also throw my 4 x NF A14 FLX there too.


----------



## Accursed Entity

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> More pics


Thank you so much, what a gorgeous build, still can't believe that case cost only $99.


----------



## firefoxx04

Just ordered 3 PH-F140SP_BK14 fans (the stock 140mm fan) for my Pro.

I dont have a triple 140mm rad yet but the fans are on sale again as mentioned a page or so ago.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835709023

$10 each with free 4-8 day shipping.


----------



## MrGrievous

Wonder why it ended and started again lol


----------



## firefoxx04

I'm not complaining. They have a $5 rebate too.


----------



## MrGrievous

Wooo they do holy crap Im gonna pick me some of those up








How would the rebate process work for multiple items of the same type, can I mail all required info in one envelope?


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrGrievous*
> 
> Wooo they do holy crap Im gonna pick me some of those up
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> How would the rebate process work for multiple items of the same type, can I mail all required info in one envelope?


Unless I'm reading it wrong, it looks to me like you can only qualify for one $5 rebate, not a $5 rebate for however many fans you buy.

http://images10.newegg.com/uploadfilesfornewegg/rebate/SH/Phanteks3mirsJun27Jul0914yh62.pdf
Quote:


> TERMS AND CONDITIONS
> Your product receipt or invoice must have a date of purchase valid during promotion period from the Newegg.com stated on the form. Not combinable with any other offer or promotion. Offer valid in USA only. End Users ONLY. Copy of confirmation e-mail is not considered acceptable invoice. *Limit ONE (1) rebate per person, receipt, household, family, or address; excludes resellers and distributors of the products and their families.* Only one (1) rebate application per envelope. The name and address on the form MUST match the purchasers name and address on the receipt or invoice or the rebate will be denied. PO Boxes are not accepted for this promotion. Any copy of UPC label will NOT be accepted. Inquiries regarding this offer received after the postmarked date of this promotion will not be acknowledged. Please allow 10 -12 weeks after claim is received by fulfillment company to receive your rebate. All rebates will be in US dollars. Offer subject to change at any time. Manufacturer is not responsible for lost, late, misdirected mail, and illegible entry. Fraudulent submission of requests could result in federal prosecution under the U.S. mail fraud status (18 USC, Section 1341 & 1342). ©2005Axpertec Inc. Reproduction in whole or in part without written permission is prohibited. All rights reserved.


----------



## firefoxx04

I didnt bother reading the rebate.. I rarely do them.


----------



## MrGrievous

Well that's not so good of a deal now, still great for 9 a pop and yea I agree rebates are a real pain and take forever still waiting for a $35 from EVGA to be sent to me but they estimated 7 weeks at the most


----------



## Krahe

Quick question re the fan hub, Ive just finished installing my rads and wiring up the fans, can i run a 3 pin extension to my current PC's pwn header to see if all is working ok? I realize it wont be PWN but will it work anyway? I want to make no fans are hitting anything ect as I had to cut a few things with my dremel.


----------



## doyll

Give it a try. I believe it will run fans at full speed.. and it on't hurt anything as long as the fans are not drawing a total of more than 1a..


----------



## Krahe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Give it a try. I believe it will run fans at full speed.. and it on't hurt anything as long as the fans are not drawing a total of more than 1a..


Gave it a try, no luck, maybe I need the molex hooked up? Had 1 fan on no1 and 2 on splitters running of the other 5 hubs, so maybe 11 was to much







. All fans worked fine when I ran the cable to each splitter when taken off the hub though so job done all seems fine.
I thought it would be good if I can run my pump of fan-1 and just hook it to my live PC to leak test ect.

Edit, just gave it a go with only a Phantek fan hooked up to Fan-1 and still no go so maybe you do need PWN cable, will have to look at how PWN works cause to be honest I've always just taken it for granted.


----------



## Speng

Trying to figure out how to maximize radiator in this case.

Curious if it'll accommodate a 240x80 in the no. 4 location while at the same time having a 360x80 in the no. 3 location and a 240x30-45 in the no. 5 location.

Also, would it accept a 480x60 in the no. 1 location while at the same time allowing for a dual-bay res in the two lowest 5.25" bay slots?

All 60+ thick rads assume a push/pull fan configuration.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Speng*
> 
> 
> 
> Trying to figure out how to maximize radiator in this case.
> 
> Curious if it'll accommodate a 240x80 in the no. 4 location while at the same time having a 360x80 in the no. 3 location and a 240x30-45 in the no. 5 location.
> 
> Also, would it accept a 480x60 in the no. 1 location while at the same time allowing for a dual-bay res in the two lowest 5.25" bay slots?
> 
> All 60+ thick rads assume a push/pull fan configuration.


Do note that Monsta rads are 85mm thick, despite the fact that they advertise them as 80mm rads. See here &/or Alphacool's technical drawing (PDF) which has the correct dimensions. Just mentioning that so you don't let that extra 5mm destroy any of your plans.

There is 120mm-123mm of space for a rad mounted in the front (#4) before it would hit an Alphacool 360 mounted in the bottom (#3) slid all the way to the rear as far as it will go. You don't need to subtract for the front fans from that 120mm as they are mounted to the front of the case. FWIW, my 360 Monsta in the bottom is mounted with the ports towards the front of the case closest to the HDD cages. I'm not positive but it looks like you might could gain an additional 3mm-5mm or so of space if yours was mounted with ports towards the rear as the back end of my 360 has a 5mm gap between it and the back panel, assuming flipped around the other way the mounting holes/slots in the bottom would let you mount it with the port end touching the back & I don't see why not. Perhaps someone with their bottom rad w/ ports to the back can say for sure. Either way, an 85mm thick Monsta plus additional fan for push-pull will fit, but probably won't leave a whole lot of room between the lower fan and the 360 in the bottom for airflow. I suspect that lower bit wouldn't be a big deal though.

There is ~50mm of space*** from the back of the side fan/rad bracket (for rad #5) to the side of a front mounted 120 rad (#4). Fans for it would mount on the other side of the bracket between the bracket and the side panel so you needn't subtract for those. Keep in mind it will vary depending on the width of the front rad which varies from one manufacturer to another. I was assuming a 124mm-wide alphacool 240 ***This 50mm measurement is approximate because I was measuring in space eyeballing it as best I could because I do not have a front or side rad. Perhaps someone who has a side &/or front mounted 240 can get a more accurate measurement for you. I measured several times and in the end rounded down just a couple mms to side with caution. I'm all but certain a 45mm thick rad will fit there, but again, there wouldn't be much space for airflow between it and a front mounted rad. I suspect a 30mm thick rad there would make more sense.

And lastly, the FAQs in the first post courtesy of Jesse @ TheModZoo should provide an answer to your last question:
Quote:


> *What is the space between the top of the case, and the top of the top 5.25" drive bay?*
> - The space from the top of the case to the top of the top 5.25" drive bay is 55mm or 2.16 inches. A single drive bay is 41.3mm tall, so 55+41 = 96mm. That is enough space to mount a 45mm or a 60mm rad in push pull and only loose the top drive bay.


Edit:
Just so you are aware, a 45mm rad up top with fans in push-pull will hang right even with the top of the mobo. A 60mm rad up top with fans in push-pull will overhang the top of the mobo by about 15mm. That shouldn't be a problem as long as you don't have anything along the top 15mm of the mobo taller than the ~53mm of offset. You might want/need to get your mobo and ram in and the PSU's CPU plug(s) plugged in and anything else along the top of the mobo before you put the rad in or at least the fans on it.


----------



## bond32

Still getting 2 GPU blocks in, but otherwise its completed. Think I might swap out the red lighting for UV...


----------



## chrisnyc75

Is there a "system speaker" embedded somewhere in the internals of the Primo? There's a connector labeled "HD Audio" which I always assumed connected to a system speaker, but it never ocurred to me until recently (when I had a system failure to POST) that I don't hear any beeps.


----------



## chrisnyc75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> Still getting 2 GPU blocks in, but otherwise its completed. Think I might swap out the red lighting for UV...


Nice! Try swapping the red LED sticks on the top, bottom, & side for UV LED sticks. The red vs purplish glow gives a nice contrast (check the pics in my sig, very similar color scheme to yours).









http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=72_107_835&products_id=26211

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/14154/lit-297/Logisys_24_Corner_LED_Light_Bar_-_12V_-_UV_LCX24UV.html?tl=g6c77s1165


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chrisnyc75*
> 
> Is there a "system speaker" embedded somewhere in the internals of the Primo? There's a connector labeled "HD Audio" which I always assumed connected to a system speaker, but it never ocurred to me until recently (when I had a system failure to POST) that I don't hear any beeps.


No, the Primo doesn't come with a case speaker. The HD Audio connector goes to the microphone and headphones jacks. If your mobo doesn't have an error code led display and you want a case speaker for POST beeps you'll need to buy one separately.

http://www.ebay.com/sch/?_nkw=pc+case+speaker


----------



## bond32

Changed from red to UV:


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## RnRollie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> No, the Primo doesn't come with a case speaker. The HD Audio connector goes to the microphone and headphones jacks. If your mobo doesn't have an error code led display and you want a case speaker for POST beeps you'll need to buy one separately.
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/sch/?_nkw=pc+case+speaker


or you can nick your little sisters Barbie-karaoke machine and jank the speaker out of it








actually just about anything scavenged from an old headphone or walkman "earplugs" will work... it only has to say "beep" , even a piece of tinfoil wrapped over a comb is more high-tech


----------



## dsmwookie

Do we have definitive LEDs for the PRIMO to replace the blue ones?


----------



## Speng

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> ...


Cheers for info! Very useful!

Also, anyone managed to somehow get hold of additional SSD push-on brackets or other case spare parts from Phanteks? There's nothing on their site that says anything about it other than maybe if you RMA d something that's gone broken on the case?


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Speng*
> 
> Cheers for info! Very useful!
> 
> Also, anyone managed to somehow get hold of additional SSD push-on brackets or other case spare parts from Phanteks? There's nothing on their site that says anything about it other than maybe if you RMA d something that's gone broken on the case?


FWIW, I asked Phanteks support about that just a week ago ...


----------



## Pierre3400

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> FWIW, I asked Phanteks support about that just a week ago ...


Very nice, i hope that will include White led strips for the front and top of the case. I already managed to get a PWM hub from Phanteks, which i was very happy about.

What i really want, are the white LED strips, and clear plexi window replacement.


----------



## Dorito Bandit

*Enthoo Pro Case*

Hi everyone,

I am a proud new owner of the Enthoo Pro Case! Just got it recently and absolutely love it! It looks amazing and the build quality is superb. The cable management system on this case is the best I have ever seen. Your build can now have very clean cable management.

Here is my cable management on my incomplete build. I currently do not have a GPU installed. Even though my build isn't complete, this will kind of give you an idea how easy it should be to mange those cables.


----------



## Dorito Bandit

Also, here is a suggestion for this thread, as well as ANY other club thread that contains more than one item.

For example; this club thread has more than one case being represented. When ever you post in this thread, why not add a title at the top of your post if you're talking about a specific case. Like I did in the above post. This would allow all of us (hopefully) to easily spot a post that may interest us. This would be a great idea (I think) for all club threads with more than one item being represented.

Just a suggestion.


----------



## firefoxx04

My 3 140mm fans came in today. They work well and are pretty quiet at 1000rpm, almost silent at 800rpm. They seem to have a distinct hum at full 1200rpm but thats fine. They will spend 99% of their time at 600-800rpm.

now to get a tripple 140 rad.


----------



## fateswarm

Hm. The phanteks enthoo pro started arriving in europe. But some revised to 4 July.


----------



## JMatzelle303

Trying to find out what color led for the Power and HDD Activity light are in the Primo White. I believe the Power is white but what about the small hdd activity light


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Do we have any specs for the Enthoo Pro as to how thick of rads will fit where in the case? All I recall was Dave LT reporting that he couldn't fit a 45mm thick rad with one set of fans in the top of the case with his mobo ...
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaveLT*
> 
> Great quality case the enthoo pro BUT. Problems have arised.
> I can't fit a 45mm thick 360 and a row of fans without running into my VRM heatsink and RAM clips. I'll have to remove the filter and install the fans then .... What sort of full tower can't fit a 45mm thick radiator and 1 set of fans? If it was just a few mm taller I wouldn't have to ruin the aesthetics by having to remove the filter. Gosh man. [...]


And as I just mentioned in another thread where someone was claiming the case would fit "thick" rads, what Dave reported pretty much goes along with what they showed in the HardwareCanuks review of the case they showed about ~67mm of space from the top of the mobo to the top of the case. I actually think they are being a bit generous with their measurement, because they look to be measuring to the filter/top of the case, and if you look at the slots where the fans/rad will actually mount they look to actually be just slightly below where they are measuring to.



Soooo, has anyone fit a 45mm rad up top in the case?

Do we know yet exactly what the space is up top above the mobo and what amount of offset there is if any? How about other rad mounting locations? How thick of a rad will fit? The manual doesn't really give (m)any clues. It shows what size of rad will fit surface area-wise, but nothing I can tell about thickness.


----------



## savagepagan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Do we have any specs for the Enthoo Pro as to how thick of rads will fit where in the case? All I recall was Dave LT reporting that he couldn't fit a 45mm thick rad with one set of fans in the top of the case with his mobo ...
> And as I just mentioned in another thread where someone was claiming the case would fit "thick" rads, what Dave reported pretty much goes along with what they showed in the HardwareCanuks review of the case they showed about ~67mm of space from the top of the mobo to the top of the case. I actually think they are being a bit generous with their measurement, because they look to be measuring to the filter/top of the case, and if you look at the slots where the fans/rad will actually mount they look to actually be just slightly below where they are measuring to.
> 
> 
> 
> Soooo, has anyone fit a 45mm rad up top in the case?
> 
> Do we know yet exactly what the space is up top above the mobo and what amount of offset there is if any? How about other rad mounting locations? How thick of a rad will fit? The manual doesn't really give (m)any clues. It shows what size of rad will fit surface area-wise, but nothing I can tell about thickness.


There is 65mm of space front the top of the case where the radiator is mounted to the top of the motherboard. So, a 45mm rad plus a 25mm thick fan maybe too much if you are using a dual 140mm radiator. Even if you are using a 120mm rad, you may run into to space issues if your motherboard has tall vrm heatsinks.
I ran into this issue trying to mount the coursair h110 in the nzxt source 530. The mobo was the asus p9x79 deluxe with very tall vrm heatsinks. The h110 kept hitting the top vrm heatsink. Then I switched to the p9x79 ws with much lower vrm heatsinks, and the h110 fit with about 3mm of clearance from the top of the vrm heatsink to the radiator.


----------



## Dorito Bandit

*Enthoo Pro Case*

Unicr0nhunter,

not sure if you have seen this video or not, but maybe this will help.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *savagepagan*
> 
> There is 65mm of space front the top of the case where the radiator is mounted to the top of the motherboard.


Thank you. + Rep.

With the lower HDD cage removed will an 85mm thick 240mm Monsta with fans in push-pull (135mm altogether) fit in the bottom, or with both HDD cages removed will a 240mm Monsta in P-P fit in the front? Or is there something I'm not accounting for that would limit what will fit in either location?


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dorito Bandit*
> 
> Unicr0nhunter,
> 
> not sure if you have seen this video or not, but maybe this will help.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Nope, hadn't seen that one yet. Rep to you too










I'm not positive, but I think the only vid I've seen so far was the HardwareCanucks review. Honestly I'm personally not even interested in getting the case for myself (as I've written in this thread and elsewhere many times, I wish my Primo was bigger, not smaller), though I have considered buying it as a gift for a family member. I'm mostly asking questions because I keep seeing people make claims about the case I know can't be true, like the other day someone was telling people that the Pro will fit a 60mm 360 rad up top in push-pull, but I'm not finding any reputable sources of info I can link to to refute such claims. Would be nice if all the known intel we have for the Pro and other Phanteks cases could be listed in the first post like the FAQs that are there now for the Primo.

Also, while I'm thinking about it, I find it strange that Phanteks didn't put out those short vids for the Pro or the Luxe like they did for the Primo and more recently for the Mini XL and the EVOLV. Wassupwitdat?

Edit:

Wow, I'm a bit disappointed in Bill Owen for what he says right here in his review of the Pro:





He says:
Quote:


> Note that if you decide to power your fans through your PWM power signal from your motherboard you cannot plug in the 12v SATA connection to the fan hub otherwise that's going to make your fans run at full speed and not be controlled by the motherboard PWM signal


That is false. He totally got that wrong. He evidently doesn't understand how the Phanteks fan hub works at all. No wonder people like DaveLT get so confused about how it works. Bill should add an annotation with a correction to that part.


----------



## bond32

I don't exactly know how it works either, would love a good explanation. The fan hub on my enthoo pro is different from the one I had on the primo. Had figured all I needed to do was connect identical fans, however according to asus when I did that they topped out at half their rated speed - this was with 3.


----------



## firefoxx04

Without sata power you will be lucky to get 3 fans at full speed

Pwm controlls the fans by pulsing the 12v power. That's why it can take the 12v directly from the psu and still control the fans. If that does not work it's because either the board is not outputting true Pwm or the controller is bad and needs replacement. I think mine is junk because it won't work even after verifying that Pwm is working and connecting the fans correctly (1 can in header 1)


----------



## fateswarm

The headers can usually do 1 amp and 3 fans usually won't do even half of it. If it doesn't work it's hardcoded for protection. Not because it wouldn't be enough.


----------



## Dorito Bandit

*Enthoo Pro Case*
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Wow, I'm a bit disappointed in Bill Owen for what he says right here in his review of the Pro:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> He says:
> That is false. He totally got that wrong. He evidently doesn't understand how the Phanteks fan hub works at all. No wonder people like DaveLT get so confused about how it works. Bill should add an annotation with a correction to that part.


From the Phanteks' case manual.
Quote:


> Connecting the 4-pin to other 4-pin header (besides the CPU_Fan) Other 4-pin connectors can be found on modern motherboards besides the "CPU_Fan" connector (e.g. "CPU_Fan2", "CHA_Fan", "OPT_Fan"), however not all motherboard manufacturers implement a true PWM signal modulation onto these connectors. These type of 4-pin connectors modulate the RPM by voltage, which has a smaller control range compared to modulation by true PWM signal.
> 
> The 12V SATA power cable can not be used to power the PWM hub if connecting to these types of 4-pin connectors, due to the interference with the RPM regulation by voltage (resulting in the fans running on full RPM). The PWM hub will draw its power from the 4-pin connector, which is limited to a total device consuming 30W in total.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> I don't exactly know how it works either, would love a good explanation. The fan hub on my enthoo pro is different from the one I had on the primo. Had figured all I needed to do was connect identical fans, however according to asus when I did that they topped out at half their rated speed - this was with 3.


Ha, I've already posted a similar question on a few other sites and got various answers. *See my thread here.* *And another here.* Haven't asked it here yet. *







*


----------



## cgull

the fan hub needs its own thread


----------



## PureBlackFire

just be on the lookout for the Luxe review. Dmitiri from HardwareCanuks has confirmed a sample is on the way for review.


----------



## p33k

I am getting bored with my switch 810 and I've been looking at this case (primo) but my video cards (290 dc2oc) are 287mm long from Asus website. I am sure they are a bit shorter with my ek blocks but not short enough to use the res mount. I have the ek d5/res combo. What would be my options for mounting it?

My options are limited here in Korea for cases, 900d is about $450 and too common. Caselabs shipping on top of case is impractical. Which brings me here as I can get primo for about $325.

Thanks for the info!


----------



## Accursed Entity

Again with the fan hub topic...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PureBlackFire*
> 
> just be on the lookout for the Luxe review. Dmitiri from HardwareCanuks has confirmed a sample is on the way for review.


Yes! Finally, I've been dying for news about the Luxe!


----------



## RnRollie

time to split into 3 subsections: Pro , Primo, FanHub ?

The fan hub/controller works as advertised, its even rather simple... most people however do NOT understand their MB & PWM/Voltage (or are being fooled by the MB manufacturers lies)


----------



## fateswarm

Yes. The "PWM header" nonsense has gone overboard. You then look at the manual and it clearly shows voltage being adjustable, without a speed adjust alone.

Though if your manual does at least that, you can figure it out.

e.g. my gigabyte's does (though it does print "PWM" too).


----------



## bond32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RnRollie*
> 
> time to split into 3 subsections: Pro , Primo, FanHub ?
> 
> The fan hub/controller works as advertised, its even rather simple... most people however do NOT understand their MB & PWM/Voltage (or are being fooled by the MB manufacturers lies)


No. That's not' what we are saying. My board is set to send a PWM signal from the CPU fan header to the fan hub, yet fans that are rated for 1800 rpm cap out at 1100?? I have tried quite a few things with it... Now yet I can use DC voltage to control fans via the fan hub... But the PWM functionality doesn't work worth a hoot.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cgull*
> 
> the fan hub needs its own thread


I'm afraid it would get lost in the zillon other threads on forum.









I've tried to put up guides and such in original post (here and other similar threads) ... problem is most people don't even look at them and few know how to use search feature well enough to find what they need to.

I like Dorito Bandit's idea of putting case name at beginning of post. Would only need to be Primo, Pro, Luxe, etc.









Edit: Also like RnRollie's idea of Fan Hub ... Hub may be all that is needed.









I wonder if there is any way to attach something in the avatar area here that would indicate what case we are talking about in each post?

I edited OP to say Enthoo Pro info starts at post 3705.

The reason I included Enthoo Pro in here is to keep tread active. The more active a thread is the easier it is for people to find. The use of key words at beginning of post should be a big help!

If anyone has any suggestions or information to improve our Phanteks thread, please let me know!


----------



## RnRollie

*FAN HUB*

Any fan is always rated (and advertised) at xxxx RPM (+/- x%) so you have to check what your fan tolerances are AND what it specs like minimum start voltage are
Also most fans have a "sweet range" : go outside that range and they dont do what you expect them to do.
Example: Fans which are specced at 7.2v to 13.4v will probably not be happy if you drop voltage to 5v

The fanhub is simple: connect sata/molex power to hub, plug your "best" (less variance) 3pin voltage fan in port 1 on the hub, plug the other 3pin voltage fans in the remaining ports.
Plug the 4pin/wire cable in the 4pin port on the hub, plug the other end in the 4pin CPU_FAN1 header on the MB.

Set CPU_FAN1 in BIOS to PWM & FULL/100% - your fans should run at full tilt or near full - some "losses" in the hub/ports/wiring may cause to drop speed a little
Set CPU_FAN1 in BIOS to PWM & 50% - your fans should run at 30 to 50% of full

Use speedfan or OpenHardware monitor or the sofware that came with the MB to change the curve/ramp of CPU_FAN1 - the fans should follow

If they dont then:
either you are not using CPU_FAN1
or CPU_FAN1 is not set to PWM in BIOS (fans will run at full speed)
or there is an issue with power/wiring/hub that causes a voltage drop (fans will not run as expected/at all)

Can we ask a MOD to create sub sections for Pro, Primo, FanHub... heck, i would even volunteer to move the posts to the relevant sections


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> No. That's not' what we are saying. My board is set to send a PWM signal from the CPU fan header to the fan hub, yet fans that are rated for 1800 rpm cap out at 1100?? I have tried quite a few things with it... Now yet I can use DC voltage to control fans via the fan hub... But the PWM functionality doesn't work worth a hoot.


Interesting.
My Primo hub works fine with either 3-pin or 4-pin fans on it.









Also, I am pretty sure the Primo hub is sending pulses of 12v power to fans and not actually lowering the voltage. I say this because a couple more powerful fans I used on it at very low speeds will not start and only "jerk to the beat" so to speak as power pulses to them. Really need to get out VOM and check the voltage of power lead to fan.


----------



## RnRollie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Interesting.
> My Primo hub works fine with either 3-pin or 4-pin fans on it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also, I am pretty sure the Primo hub is sending pulses of 12v power to fans and not actually lowering the voltage. I say this because a couple more powerful fans I used on it at very low speeds will not start and only "jerk to the beat" so to speak as power pulses to them. Really need to get out VOM and check the voltage of power lead to fan.


hmm... if they pulse that would mean to tune down the 25Khz PWM signal to something like a voltage pulse at approx 30hz (block)
that would require a serious capacitor to buffer the pulse, not to mention some chokes to filter out the "dirty" feedback signal. Otherwise the "spike" would show up on a "kill-o-watt" meter. (not to mention any nearby hifi







) When using a chip & microcode to translate a PWM signal to a (fixed) voltage "ramp" a variac and some not-so-small heatsink to dissipate the surplus would be needed...
I could be wrong, i'm not an electronics engineer...









hmmm.. hook up to a scope, or take it apart & reverse engineer it or just ask them how they do it...








Its probably not rocket science... but i dont feel inclined to chase up my soldring iron









PS: the jerk to the beat has nothing to do with pulse.. but with having not enough "oomph/juice" to createand sustain a large enough magnetic field in the coils.. hook up that same fan to a variable power supply , tune it down low enough and it will behave the same. Nothing to do with "pulse"


----------



## cgull

My comment about a seperate thread for fan hub was more sarcasm than serious. This thread has gotten bogged down occasionally on that subject despite the info in OP. It comes down to users jumping straight in without looking first. A gentle pointer in the right direction is required. It's also an indication to phanteks as to the confusion surrounding the hub. Don't think we need seperate threads for the cases just yet, but a heading indicating the case in question is a great idea despite the fact that posters may not always follow the standard. There is a happy medium between strict nazi and chaos. Overall I'm happy with members keeping themselves in check.


----------



## bond32

Those of us that are inquiring about the fan hub, know what rated rpm is of the fans and know how connect the damn thing. I am asking why when a pwm signal is sent to the hub does it not control the fans...

I brought up the voltage control because that works. We know it does. Voltage controlling fans is not the same as pwm control. We know this.

RnRollie seems to know what he's talking about. Otherwise I'm willing to contact Phanteks. It's interesting too that they would have different hubs for the Primo and pro.


----------



## Krahe

Would you be able to hook a variable speed D5 pump to Fan_1 instead of a single fan?


----------



## bond32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krahe*
> 
> Would you be able to hook a variable speed D5 pump to Fan_1 instead of a single fan?


Not a good idea, multiple reasons. 1, D5 pumps can pull around 35 watts max which would fry that fan hub. 2, FAN_1 is how the board gets it's RPM reading for either PWM or voltage control - if FAN_1 is a pump it's sending a signal of around 3000-3500 RPM which would in turn cause the motherboard/hub to try to run anything else connected to those readings.


----------



## Krahe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> Not a good idea, multiple reasons. 1, D5 pumps can pull around 35 watts max which would fry that fan hub. 2, FAN_1 is how the board gets it's RPM reading for either PWM or voltage control - if FAN_1 is a pump it's sending a signal of around 3000-3500 RPM which would in turn cause the motherboard/hub to try to run anything else connected to those readings.


Oh well thanks for that, if it sounds to good to be true etc etc....


----------



## bond32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krahe*
> 
> Oh well thanks for that, if it sounds to good to be true etc etc....


There are some controllers out there for controlling D5 pumps, I know Koolance makes a few. They even have one for the 24V version - the "D5 Strong". There are others by aquacomputer, don't know the exact ones. Are you looking to control it in any particular way? Personally my D5 vario runs around 2200 RPM, speed 1-2 setting which is still perfectly fine for my loop of cpu, gpu, and 3 radiators. I could even drop it down to about 1900 rpm and my temps would still stay the same. Personally the small red knob is fine, no reason to have such variability in the speeds - once you find a good point just leave it.


----------



## Krahe

Thanks again, still playing with ideas atm, received my Primo and have removed the hdd cages and 5.25 bays and fitted 2 480 rads, but still playing with ideas for the final build before I start ordering all the parts.


----------



## RnRollie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> There are some controllers out there for controlling D5 pumps, I know Koolance makes a few. They even have one for the 24V version - the "D5 Strong". There are others by aquacomputer, don't know the exact ones. Are you looking to control it in any particular way? Personally my D5 vario runs around 2200 RPM, speed 1-2 setting which is still perfectly fine for my loop of cpu, gpu, and 3 radiators. I could even drop it down to about 1900 rpm and my temps would still stay the same. Personally the small red knob is fine, no reason to have such variability in the speeds - once you find a good point just leave it.


^^^this

Just find the setting where flow is near/over 1 GPM & below 2 GPM without making a lot of noise and leave it there.

Dynamic pump control is a nice to have and sometimes a must on very complex & sensitive systems, but in general only satisfies the need of people who are a bit OCD/anal and like a lot of blinking light & sensors & numbers


----------



## firefoxx04

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *p33k*
> 
> I am getting bored with my switch 810 and I've been looking at this case (primo) but my video cards (290 dc2oc) are 287mm long from Asus website. I am sure they are a bit shorter with my ek blocks but not short enough to use the res mount. I have the ek d5/res combo. What would be my options for mounting it?
> 
> My options are limited here in Korea for cases, 900d is about $450 and too common. Caselabs shipping on top of case is impractical. Which brings me here as I can get primo for about $325.
> 
> Thanks for the info!


I think you can mount the res in the rear (you can on the pro) if the graphics cards are not too tall.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RnRollie*
> 
> time to split into 3 subsections: Pro , Primo, FanHub ?
> 
> The fan hub/controller works as advertised, its even rather simple... most people however do NOT understand their MB & PWM/Voltage (or are being fooled by the MB manufacturers lies)


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RnRollie*
> 
> *FAN HUB*
> 
> Any fan is always rated (and advertised) at xxxx RPM (+/- x%) so you have to check what your fan tolerances are AND what it specs like minimum start voltage are
> Also most fans have a "sweet range" : go outside that range and they dont do what you expect them to do.
> Example: Fans which are specced at 7.2v to 13.4v will probably not be happy if you drop voltage to 5v
> 
> The fanhub is simple: connect sata/molex power to hub, plug your "best" (less variance) 3pin voltage fan in port 1 on the hub, plug the other 3pin voltage fans in the remaining ports.
> Plug the 4pin/wire cable in the 4pin port on the hub, plug the other end in the 4pin CPU_FAN1 header on the MB.
> 
> Set CPU_FAN1 in BIOS to PWM & FULL/100% - your fans should run at full tilt or near full - some "losses" in the hub/ports/wiring may cause to drop speed a little
> Set CPU_FAN1 in BIOS to PWM & 50% - your fans should run at 30 to 50% of full
> 
> Use speedfan or OpenHardware monitor or the sofware that came with the MB to change the curve/ramp of CPU_FAN1 - the fans should follow
> 
> If they dont then:
> either you are not using CPU_FAN1
> or CPU_FAN1 is not set to PWM in BIOS (fans will run at full speed)
> or there is an issue with power/wiring/hub that causes a voltage drop (fans will not run as expected/at all)
> 
> Can we ask a MOD to create sub sections for Pro, Primo, FanHub... heck, i would even volunteer to move the posts to the relevant sections


So what about me? Ive had a terrible time with the controller.

First I find my board is not using PWM, even on the cpu fan header.

I then find that my mothers desktop does have PWM and I even verified that its working as pwm.

I then installed the fan controller to my mothers pc as I am supposed too and suddenly the fans are not controllable. I can however control the hub with voltage but that means I have to leave the sata power unplugged.

What Im saying is the controller receives a PWM signal but ignores it. At least in my case. Also, it seems the only people with working controllers are the ones who bought the Primo case. I have not found one person with the pro that has had a working controller (unless they are not posting about it) On top of that, the controller confuses a lot of people so the primo owners assume it is user error 100% of the time but I know ive done it right. Ive done everything as you guys say and it will NOT work when controlled by PWM.


----------



## GOLDDUBBY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pierre3400*
> 
> I cant help at getting confused about the 3x GPU's, but only one under water?


Technically speaking, his gpu is on water, not under









The full gpu blocks are so smexy, and the vrm and memory cooling etc is awesome. But they do cost a pretty penny, and not real easy to get them sold when it's time for update either. I'm glad I only needed two.


----------



## RnRollie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *firefoxx04*
> 
> I think you can mount the res in the rear (you can on the pro) if the graphics cards are not too tall.
> 
> So what about me? Ive had a terrible time with the controller.
> 
> First I find my board is not using PWM, even on the cpu fan header.
> 
> I then find that my mothers desktop does have PWM and I even verified that its working as pwm.
> 
> I then installed the fan controller to my mothers pc as I am supposed too and suddenly the fans are not controllable. I can however control the hub with voltage but that means I have to leave the sata power unplugged.
> 
> What Im saying is the controller receives a PWM signal but ignores it. At least in my case. Also, it seems the only people with working controllers are the ones who bought the Primo case. I have not found one person with the pro that has had a working controller (unless they are not posting about it) On top of that, the controller confuses a lot of people so the primo owners assume it is user error 100% of the time but I know ive done it right. Ive done everything as you guys say and it will NOT work when controlled by PWM.


yeah, i've read that... i'ld ditch the MB and get something else, another brand completely... sending an "unhappy" mail to the manufacturer as a bonus is up to you


----------



## firefoxx04

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RnRollie*
> 
> yeah, i've read that... i'ld ditch the MB and get something else, another brand completely... sending an "unhappy" mail to the manufacturer as a bonus is up to you


I bought it used but thats besides the point. My point being that the controller did not work in a different pc that HAS PWM. I confirmed it has pwm yet the controller refuses to control the fans.

Even if my controller worked, it wont work in my system so I dont care too much. Id still like to get it replaced. Phanteks never got back to me.


----------



## chrisnyc75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *firefoxx04*
> 
> I think you can mount the res in the rear (you can on the pro) if the graphics cards are not too tall.
> 
> So what about me? Ive had a terrible time with the controller.
> 
> First I find my board is not using PWM, even on the cpu fan header.
> 
> I then find that my mothers desktop does have PWM and I even verified that its working as pwm.
> 
> I then installed the fan controller to my mothers pc as I am supposed too and suddenly the fans are not controllable. I can however control the hub with voltage but that means I have to leave the sata power unplugged.
> 
> What Im saying is the controller receives a PWM signal but ignores it. At least in my case. Also, it seems the only people with working controllers are the ones who bought the Primo case. I have not found one person with the pro that has had a working controller (unless they are not posting about it) On top of that, the controller confuses a lot of people so the primo owners assume it is user error 100% of the time but I know ive done it right. Ive done everything as you guys say and it will NOT work when controlled by PWM.


First off, let me preface by saying I've had no trouble with the fan hub (came with the Primo)....

However, Phanteks has been promising availability as a stand-alone accessory for about a year....and it is nowhere to be found. That may well indicate manufacturing difficulty....there's no telling if the hubs being shipped with the Pro are fabricated by the same manufacturer as the ones that ship(ped) with the Primo.

Fwiw, I have found that the hub does not work well at all when it's not connected to a real PWM hub; on my RIV, the hub behaves oddly if I connect it to anything but the actual "CPU_FAN" header (even "CPU_OPT" gave me trouble). If your board uses stealth voltage control rather than actual PWM on ALL headers (which many seem to) there's not much you or Phanteks can do about that.


----------



## firefoxx04

Ill say this for the third time today, I have a board using real pwm and the controller fails to control the fans with and without external power.

I can voltage control the hub just fine but im limited to 2-3 fans because I cant use external power that way (adding sata power would negate the reduced voltage coming from the board header)

I would like to find one person with the Pro that has a controller working as it should (working just like the primo controller). From what i have read and been told, the controllers should function the same (why wouldnt they??) but the only difference is the power input (molex vs sata) which should change nothing.


----------



## JMatzelle303

Can anyone here verify the white edition has all white led bother the power strip and the hdd activity led. And if there is any other led what color are they


----------



## chrisnyc75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *firefoxx04*
> 
> Ill say this for the third time today, I have a board using real pwm and the controller fails to control the fans with and without external power.
> 
> I can voltage control the hub just fine but im limited to 2-3 fans because I cant use external power that way (adding sata power would negate the reduced voltage coming from the board header)
> 
> I would like to find one person with the Pro that has a controller working as it should (working just like the primo controller). From what i have read and been told, the controllers should function the same (why wouldnt they??) but the only difference is the power input (molex vs sata) which should change nothing.


I can't vouch for how many times you said that particular thing today, but if it's really 3 you should probably stop saying it before you start sounding redundant.

Anyway, why can't you connect more than 2-3 fans without the external power? I have 6 fans connected to mine powered by only the mobo header and it works just fine. Unless it's not just the pwm control that isn't working and there's something different about the voltage delivery


----------



## doyll

RnRollie is correct about the pulse bit.







Darn brain farts!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krahe*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> Not a good idea, multiple reasons. 1, D5 pumps can pull around 35 watts max which would fry that fan hub. 2, FAN_1 is how the board gets it's RPM reading for either PWM or voltage control - if FAN_1 is a pump it's sending a signal of around 3000-3500 RPM which would in turn cause the motherboard/hub to try to run anything else connected to those readings.
> 
> 
> 
> Oh well thanks for that, if it sounds to good to be true etc etc....
Click to expand...

The PWM signal control on most motherboards does not control the speed in reference to rpm. The control is temperature to pulse percentage only. If set for [email protected]%, at 30c the PWM signal is 30%, not rpm at 30% The rpm reading only shows us how fast the fan is running at that 30% PWM setting. At least that is how my motherboards and GPUs seem to work. If I unhook the rpm lead the only thing that changes is I can't read fan speed ... and sometimes a fan alarm because of no rpm speed registering. Fans continue changing speed dependent on temp to % of PWM settings of the temp to % curve ... even though the fan curve software says "% (RPM)"


----------



## bond32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> RnRollie is correct about the pulse bit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Darn brain farts!
> The PWM signal control on most motherboards does not control the speed in reference to rpm. The control is temperature to pulse percentage only. If set for [email protected]%, at 30c the PWM signal is 30%, not rpm at 30% The rpm reading only shows us how fast the fan is running at that 30% PWM setting. At least that is how my motherboards and GPUs seem to work. If I unhook the rpm lead the only thing that changes is I can't read fan speed ... and sometimes a fan alarm because of no rpm speed registering. Fans continue changing speed dependent on temp to % of PWM settings of the temp to % curve ... even though the fan curve software says "% (RPM)"


That's specific only to the motherboard you have though. On my Asus board (maximus vi extreme), in the fan expert software it will "benchmark" the fans to test what speed the fan runs at for various PWM percentages. After the "benchmark" runs, it will adjust the fans knowing what RPM they run at when it tries to run a PWM percentage.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> That's specific only to the motherboard you have though. On my Asus board (maximus vi extreme), in the fan expert software it will "benchmark" the fans to test what speed the fan runs at for various PWM percentages. After the "benchmark" runs, it will adjust the fans knowing what RPM they run at when it tries to run a PWM percentage.


Sounds about the same as my Gigabyte but with a smart system to set the PWM signal curve.








How can it adjust multiple fans with fan header only being able to monitor one fan's RPM?

What I was trying to point out is that PWM is monitored to control and control the fan speed, not by monitoring the RPM and adjusting the PWM to maintain the RPM.

Honestly, it sounds more like marketing hype for saying it can set the PWM curve with software. It doesn't know what speed the fan is any more than mine does. All it is doing is setting the fan curve automatically instead of my having to set it manually.


----------



## bond32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Sounds about the same as my Gigabyte but with a smart system to set the PWM signal curve.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> How can it adjust multiple fans with fan header only being able to monitor one fan's RPM?
> 
> What I was trying to point out is that PWM is monitored to control and control the fan speed, not by monitoring the RPM and adjusting the PWM to maintain the RPM.
> 
> Honestly, it sounds more like marketing hype for saying it can set the PWM curve with software. It doesn't know what speed the fan is any more than mine does. All it is doing is setting the fan curve automatically instead of my having to set it manually.


Not trying to start an argument, but I don't buy it. I would understand the motherboard controlling pwm percentage with temperature BEFORE software gets involved, but once you start changing things manually with software or programs it becomes different.

If you look on the hub itself, the "FAN_1" is clearly marked differently. One way to test (when I get home) would be to plug fans into anything but fan 1 and see how it's controlled.


----------



## bond32

Had a little bit of time, testing the hub now. Connecting 1 single AP-15 which is rated at 1800 rpm to the FAN_1, then ensuring my motherboard outputs a true PWM signal, when windows starts the fan seems to operate as it should. When I run the Fan Xpert program it finds the slowest fan speed to be 1500 RPM, so something is still wonky about it. This is with the SATA connector connected.

Next tried Speedfan, no go. Appears it can't find the fan controller on the board, so SOL there.

Edit: Tried purely voltage control and still no go. Fan software reads the max speed of the fans to be 1050rpm... what the heck.


----------



## firefoxx04

Can you control the fan properly with pwm when its directly connected to the mobo fan header?

If voltage control does NOT work (with the controller) i dont think the controller is at fault. My controller works well with voltage control but does not work at all with a true pwm header (runs fans at full speed / 12v without pulsing them)


----------



## bond32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *firefoxx04*
> 
> Can you control the fan properly with pwm when its directly connected to the mobo fan header?
> 
> If voltage control does NOT work (with the controller) i dont think the controller is at fault. My controller works well with voltage control but does not work at all with a true pwm header (runs fans at full speed / 12v without pulsing them)


Same. I can control the fans via pwm, however the motherboard only adjust the fans between 1400-1800 RPM which is hardly anything - this is because there's skewed RPM readings from the hub itself. I can control the fans by voltage and end up with the exact same result.


----------



## Velict

Okay, so depending on how my deployment goes, i'm thinking deeeeeeply about getting one of these cases. But, catch is that i'm not going to go through the hassle of dealing with a custom water coloing loop.

Cooler master is coming out soon, or already has (can't do much research here) with their 360mm AIO. I want something like that for my CPU, and then i'm going to purchase the NZXT G10 bracket coupled with an r9 290 or whatever next-gen GPU that comes out that is compatible. Preferably, I want a 240 per GPU. My question is, what is the most optimal air-flow composition for this sort of build... This is what I was thinking.


----------



## zziplex

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Velict*
> 
> Okay, so depending on how my deployment goes, i'm thinking deeeeeeply about getting one of these cases. But, catch is that i'm not going to go through the hassle of dealing with a custom water coloing loop.
> 
> Cooler master is coming out soon, or already has (can't do much research here) with their 360mm AIO. I want something like that for my CPU, and then i'm going to purchase the NZXT G10 bracket coupled with an r9 290 or whatever next-gen GPU that comes out that is compatible. Preferably, I want a 240 per GPU. My question is, what is the most optimal air-flow composition for this sort of build... This is what I was thinking.


i would keep as you do and push out from top too.
But really you need 240 AIO on gpu's? I have 2 corsair H90 for any of my 2 780gtx and temp looks great (40'C full load, sli, ambient around 25'C in overclock around 1250Mhz on the gpu --both).


----------



## RnRollie

you cant keep the VRMs of a R9 under control with those puny glue-on heatsinks you have to apply if you choose to use an AIO + G10, you have to get extra fannage bolted on

Using a MCR drive & a Komodo full cover block would be far far better and outperform any AIO solution
http://www.swiftech.com/mcr-x20-drive-rev3.aspx


----------



## bond32

^^^ 290 puts out way more heat than the 780. Also, if you're talking about the Cooler Master 360L that is expandable - it actually has a good pump. Why not just get full cover water blocks???


----------



## WHIMington

Then maybe you should just RMA a new fan hub to see if it is defective, enthoo pro user here, and mine works beautifully, I am planning to hook it up with the aquaero 6 to see if it works.


----------



## fateswarm

The VRM's temps depend primarily on the mosfets quality. The range of circuits is very big. e.g. you could theoretically have many IR3550s and never get beyond 60C on a naked board without cooling, or have a few flimsy 25Amp ones that will explode on a modest overclock.

i.e. Don't be surprised when similar cooling on two different cards has different temps.


----------



## bond32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WHIMington*
> 
> Then maybe you should just RMA a new fan hub to see if it is defective, enthoo pro user here, and mine works beautifully, I am planning to hook it up with the aquaero 6 to see if it works.


Are you using it with pwm control?


----------



## WHIMington

Are you? I am actually tempting to test what's all the fuss about. But that means I might have to brough some different fans to test with, also, I have taken out the hub to test with another MB, cannot recall if the fan have lower RPM then usual. I might just try to test it again, but that will have to wait till weekend.

Edit:To my understanding, If the PWM is at 100%duty cycle, these type of hub will give out exactly 12 volts power to the fan, Iby using a multimeter you can easily test if it is the case, also, some MoBo, when told to go 100% on pwm head, will simply change to voltage mode instead of using PWM signal.


----------



## bond32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WHIMington*
> 
> Are you? I am actually tempting to test what's all the fuss about. But that means I might have to brough some different fans to test with, also, I have taken out the hub to test with another MB, cannot recall if the fan have lower RPM then usual. I might just try to test it again, but that will have to wait till weekend.


I've tried both pwm and voltage to control mine and it doesn't work worth a hoot.


----------



## Velict

I guess
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> ^^^ 290 puts out way more heat than the 780. Also, if you're talking about the Cooler Master 360L that is expandable - it actually has a good pump. Why not just get full cover water blocks???


But how is the pricing on something like that? I don't want to constantly change water blocks when new GPU's come out. I want something that will be a bit (maybe 2 / 3 years) legacy proof.

Also, i'm a bit worried about going full custom water cooled. Pricing / risks and even performance.... A bulk of my money is going to go into my monitor anyway ( LG 34UM95)


----------



## chrisnyc75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Velict*
> 
> Okay, so depending on how my deployment goes, i'm thinking deeeeeeply about getting one of these cases. But, catch is that i'm not going to go through the hassle of dealing with a custom water coloing loop.
> 
> Cooler master is coming out soon, or already has (can't do much research here) with their 360mm AIO. I want something like that for my CPU, and then i'm going to purchase the NZXT G10 bracket coupled with an r9 290 or whatever next-gen GPU that comes out that is compatible. Preferably, I want a 240 per GPU. My question is, what is the most optimal air-flow composition for this sort of build... This is what I was thinking.


IMO set all your fans to intake, build "positive pressure" inside your case to keep dust out and supplies all radiators with cooler air -- exhaust fans only pull warmed air through your radiator which is self defeating.


----------



## Velict

http://www.swiftech.com/MCR-X20-Drive-Rev3.aspx woah that's actually pretty legit. Will two 360's work well together?


----------



## WHIMington

I will hold onto the judgement untill I have fully tested it.

Anyways, did anyone managed to fit a XSPC Proton 270 into pro? just wondering.


----------



## bond32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Velict*
> 
> I guess
> But how is the pricing on something like that? I don't want to constantly change water blocks when new GPU's come out. I want something that will be a bit (maybe 2 / 3 years) legacy proof.
> 
> Also, i'm a bit worried about going full custom water cooled. Pricing / risks and even performance.... A bulk of my money is going to go into my monitor anyway ( LG 34UM95)


If you desire full cover waterblocks, buying them every time you get new cards is just part of it you will have to accept. Yeah, it sucks, its expensive and you will never be able to recover the money. But it's a hobby.

Honestly I don't know how the 780ti has done so well. Well I suppose it's the brand image, but performance wise the 290x constantly trades blows with it, and is a fraction of the price. If you're gaming at 4k, highly recommend the 290/290x.... As for full cover waterblocks, I personally have the Koolance which is fantastic. It's actually on sale on their website for $109. All the GPU blocks perform very close to each other. Just went with the Koolance because it was all that was available at the time when I got mine.

Like chrisnyc75 said, do all fans as intake. Positive pressure not only helps keep dust out, but allows the radiators to perform as they are designed.

The Swiftech you linked is indeed a good product. However I would recommend any of the XSPC kits with a D5 pump. A single D5 pump will provide enough flow for just about anything you could fit, quiet, and lasts very long. The kits are great because they come with what you need to get your loop started (bay reservoir, radiator, raystorm cpu block, compression fittings, various mounting hardware).


----------



## chrisnyc75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> If you desire full cover waterblocks, buying them every time you get new cards is just part of it you will have to accept. Yeah, it sucks, its expensive and you will never be able to recover the money. But it's a hobby.


Yeah, watercooling isn't "a component" in your build, you'll end up thinking of it as an almost separate passion altogether. There's your computer, then there's your watercooling loop. If anything, you'll find that watercooling takes MUCH more planning, research, & time than building the "pc part".
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> Honestly I don't know how the 780ti has done so well. Well I suppose it's the brand image, but performance wise the 290x constantly trades blows with it, and is a fraction of the price.


I think it's mostly about the heat and availability. The R290X has been very hard to find and prices inflated for a long time because of miners. And then if you can find one, they run notoriously hot. They R290X is powerful, but the 780Ti is efficient AND powerful.


----------



## fateswarm

Most eu shops revised the ETA for 8 July for pro.. Some may have it but I want it locally for reasons.


----------



## firefoxx04

I dont like the idea of intake fans on the top of the case. Heat rises and I feel like exhausting out the top would be preferable. I still think it would have positive pressure in the case with the top being exhaust.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WHIMington*
> 
> Then maybe you should just RMA a new fan hub to see if it is defective, enthoo pro user here, and mine works beautifully, I am planning to hook it up with the aquaero 6 to see if it works.


Thank you for your feedback


----------



## chrisnyc75

put a heater in front of a fan with the fan blowing away from it and feel where the heat goes.

Heat moves with air, heat only "rises" if it's not propelled by another force. If you blow fans downward, heat goes down with it. If you pull that heat up through your radiator with exhaust fans, though, the air moving through your radiator will be warm & less efficient than cool air from outside your case.

But see what works for you.


----------



## RnRollie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Velict*
> 
> http://www.swiftech.com/MCR-X20-Drive-Rev3.aspx woah that's actually pretty legit. Will two 360's work well together?


The MCR DRive uses a quite powerfull DDC pump... you only need one MCR Drive and you can add any size "normal" radiator in the loop. For example you could have the MCR 320 Drive in the roof and a "normal" 120.3 QP on the floor or a MCR 220 Drive in the front and a 360 alphacool MONSTA on the floor AND a 360 QP in the roof. Add a Komodo block and an Apogee XL for CPU and you are definitely no longer in AIO money territory









If it is all a bit too steep, the Swiftech/Coolermaster Hx20/Glacer joint venture might be a better option... it offers the ease-of-install of an AIO and the expandabilty of a true custom W/C

Check out the watercooling section for some ideas


----------



## RnRollie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *firefoxx04*
> 
> I dont like the idea of intake fans on the top of the case. *Heat rises* and I feel like exhausting out the top would be preferable. I still think it would have positive pressure in the case with the top being exhaust.
> Thank you for your feedback












the heat rises has been done to death... by others & myself... i'll just say that a bumblebee passing through your case displaces more air as the air that rises in natural convection. At least untill said bumblebee is mangled to death by your fans.


----------



## chrisnyc75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RnRollie*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> the heat rises has been done to death... by others & myself... i'll just say that a bumblebee passing through your case displaces more air as the air that rises in natural convection. At least untill said bumblebee is mangled to death by your fans.


Exactly. Besides, with your cpu & gpu(s) watercooled your system is producing minimal heat, just the what the PCH, VRMs, & RAM emit, which doesn't build up to any notable degree as long as you're forcing cool air in from the outside to cool the heatsinks.

But each case/design/loop is different, if you get better results with exhaust on top than intake then do what works for you.

Even if it is wrong. lol (j/k!)


----------



## Screetch82

Hi

Just planning to do a new PC build. I currently have a i5 2500k running at 4.5 and a 780ti. The CPU is cooled with a first corsair h100 and the temps are average however the fans are quite working hard. Therefore I want to step into proper watercoolong. I have been trying to reuse my corsair 500r but can only fit thin rads in the top. So my decision is to do it properly using an enthoo primo also in white. This will hopefully been future prof for another 5 years or longer.

I read a lot in this forum but 450+ pages is a bit much. So I am hoping of lots of advise here.

I am using my PC for gaming and flight simulation running x plane. There I have been eyeing the 4790k and wanna run it around 4.8 or higher. Single thread performance is needed and my i5 is holding back my 780ti.

The goal is to have tons of rad space for the CPU and maybe a gpu later. It will always be one gpu. And I want it to be quite. Not a lot of fan noise

As for rads I thought about getting the 140x3 alphacooll xt45 420 rad for the top. It seems to suit low fan rpm and is easy to fit since it's slim and not as long as the 480 120mm version.

And for the bottom I am not sure. Maybe the 120mm alphacooll monsta? I think I will take e bottom hdd cage out. However I have one hdd cage left? Right? Is there still an option to get another rad on the side?


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Screetch82*
> 
> Hi
> 
> Just planning to do a new PC build. I currently have a i5 2500k running at 4.5 and a 780ti. The CPU is cooled with a first corsair h100 and the temps are average however the fans are quite working hard. Therefore I want to step into proper watercoolong. I have been trying to reuse my corsair 500r but can only fit thin rads in the top. So my decision is to do it properly using an enthoo primo also in white. This will hopefully been future prof for another 5 years or longer.
> 
> I read a lot in this forum but 450+ pages is a bit much. So I am hoping of lots of advise here.
> 
> I am using my PC for gaming and flight simulation running x plane. There I have been eyeing the 4790k and wanna run it around 4.8 or higher. Single thread performance is needed and my i5 is holding back my 780ti.
> 
> The goal is to have tons of rad space for the CPU and maybe a gpu later. It will always be one gpu. And I want it to be quite. Not a lot of fan noise
> 
> As for rads I thought about getting the 140x3 alphacooll xt45 420 rad for the top. It seems to suit low fan rpm and is easy to fit since it's slim and not as long as the 480 120mm version.
> 
> *And for the bottom I am not sure. Maybe the 120mm alphacooll monsta? I think I will take e bottom hdd cage out. However I have one hdd cage left? Right? Is there still an option to get another rad on the side?*


I suspect you meant a 480 Monsta in the bottom since you mention removing the bottom HDD cage. Yes, there is room for a 480 monsta in the bottom, in push-pull even, and keep the top HDD cage which holds 3 HDDs You could also add another 30mm 240 rad on the side using the included bracket but if you do that both HDD cages would need to be removed.


----------



## Screetch82

Hi

Would a 420 top and a 480 in the bottom be enough? How low can I run the fans?

I could the see there is a fan controller that comes with the case but I would have 6 fans on the top rad and 8 fans for the bottom rad. So how do I deal with that? Do I need to get another fan controller?

Would I be able to fit this in the top 5.25 inch space or would this be blocked by the top rad?

What type of pump ( mount this in the position that was designed for in the case) should I get?

What pe of reservoir tank do I get? Does the size matter?


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Either a 420 or a 480 rad by themselves, especially in push-pull, would be sufficient for a CPU + single GPU loop. Having both would provide a comfortable amount of overkill.

For that many fans you probably would be better off to get a fan controller. I believe most fan controllers would fit in the top bay with a 420 rad. I wasn't able to fit my Lamptron CW611 in the top bay with a 480 rad up top, but I almost was. Believe me I tried. If I only had ~10mms more it would be there. Instead I did manage to fit a Koolance flow meter display (DCB-FM01) in that top bay and my fan controller under it.

As far as pump and reservoirs, that's all up to you as they come down more on the side of personal preference.

I'd probably suggest going with a D5 (aka PMP-450, VPP655, MCP-655) pump, or a DDC (aka MCP35x, PMP400) is another good option. The D5 tends to be the quieter and more reliable of the two. The DDC is also a good pump but is slightly better for loops with more than a few blocks of restriction. It also should be speed controlled as when run at full speed for long periods, especially in a low restriction loop, it's possible the DDC can overheat to the point of failure. That's why they sell heatsinks for the DDC, and why controlling speeds with PWM is a good idea. The D5 is more bulletproof but flow rates can suffer if used in loops with more than a few blocks of restriction. For a CPU and single GPU loop the D5 would probably be your best bet.


----------



## bond32

A 420 and 480 is complete overkill for anything you can fit in that case... Like the previous poster said, any one of those two alone would cool a cpu + gpu loop and be overkill.


----------



## RnRollie

but a 480 + 420 would give near ambient temps when idle and only 10°C over ambient under load... which means that fans can be tuned back to low noise


----------



## bond32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RnRollie*
> 
> but a 480 + 420 would give near ambient temps when idle and only 10°C over ambient under load... which means that fans can be tuned back to low noise


Fair enough. But then it too heavily depends on the fans.

Next weekend I'll be ordering my other 2 gpu blocks. I'm quite curious to see how my loop does. Have 720mm of rad space... Haven't actually run any numbers, but i'm betting I'm close to my limit.


----------



## Screetch82

I know it's kinda overkill but I will only building this loop once. So I might as well kit the case out to the max and then only update the CPU and gpu in the future. However I like to turn the fans all the way down and still have the option to turn it up later.

Or should I just get a bottom 360 and keep the lower hdd cage?

There are small and large reservoir tanks. Which is better?


----------



## bond32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Screetch82*
> 
> I know it's kinda overkill but I will only building this loop once. So I might as well kit the case out to the max and then only update the CPU and gpu in the future. However I like to turn the fans all the way down and still have the option to turn it up later.
> 
> Or should I just get a bottom 360 and keep the lower hdd cage?
> 
> There are small and large reservoir tanks. Which is better?


Well, if all you're cooling is the cpu and gpu, all you technically need is one good 360. However, this is OCN, and that just won't do. Plus, you have this giant case with all this rad space...

You have tons of flexibility. Depending on how many drives you have would determine where to put a reservoir I think. Personally, I actually did a thick 420 and 480 in the Primo cooling a single gpu and cpu at one time, just because I could. If I recall, I did indeed have my 480mm in the bottom in push/pull and had the upper drive cage on. Ideally I would have had all SSD's and done away with the drive cages.

On that note, with the Pro, I found a spot to mount a single 3.5" hdd: 

Was using a 5.25" adapter but didn't work worth a hoot. As it turns out, the mounting holes on the bottom of my hdd actually line right up with some holes on the bay area.


----------



## Velict

Considering that the technology of radiators and fans don't really change that much over the years, I think i'll run on high performance air cooling, and slowly start putting together a water cooling kit. I guestimated how much it would cost for water cooling + the build and it isn't that steep. Also, I can keep the radiators and fans until they die. I've seen in the WC forums some people have had their radiators for over 4 years and with proper maintenance, they're still like brand new. Here is a linky. Tell me what ya'll think. I'm going to post the same thing in the WC forums, but I want some of the Enthoo Primo owners to give me some pointers, too. For the record, by the time I purchase these items, nvidia or amd will probably have their new stuff out. I'm looking around a November / December timeframe. It may seem like a far way away for most people, but this deployment is flying by quickly.

http://pcpartpicker.com/p/fGfK23 the basics for now.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Velict*
> 
> Considering that the technology of radiators and fans don't really change that much over the years, I think i'll run on high performance air cooling, and slowly start putting together a water cooling kit. I guestimated how much it would cost for water cooling + the build and it isn't that steep. Also, I can keep the radiators and fans until they die. I've seen in the WC forums some people have had their radiators for over 4 years and with proper maintenance, they're still like brand new. Here is a linky. Tell me what ya'll think. I'm going to post the same thing in the WC forums, but I want some of the Enthoo Primo owners to give me some pointers, too. For the record, by the time I purchase these items, nvidia or amd will probably have their new stuff out. I'm looking around a November / December timeframe. It may seem like a far way away for most people, but this deployment is flying by quickly.
> 
> http://pcpartpicker.com/p/fGfK23 the basics for now.


While the Phanteks PH-TC14PE coolers are very good, the PH-TC14PE_BK from Newegg have been problematic. Somehow several of the black cooler got through quality control that the heatpipes had some pretty bad ripples on inside of radius of bends. I seem to remember a few from Amazon too. Phanteks has resolved the problem and their customer service did a stellar job helping buyers of these coolers. On another not, the TC14PE is now using it's 3rd generation of fans;
1st - PH-F140TS = 3-pin voltage control & PWM adapter
2nd - PH-F140HP = 3-pin voltage control & PWM adapter
3rd - PH-F140HP = 4-pin PWM control & no adapter

Problem is Phanteks does not say which fan is actually in the cooler box and neither do the retailers. This means we have to specifically ask retailer to verify which fan the cooler is supplied with ... and many retailers will not actually look, but will still say it is PWM.

As you are spending over $1000.00 for monitor, I suggest getting a Cryorig R1 Ultimate or Thermalright Silver Arrow IBE- Extreme. The R1 Ultimate has repeatedly scored better in reviews than other top air and the SA IB-E Extreme with it's 2500rpm TY-143 fans cools as good at 1300-1500rpm and better at higher speeds. Obviously at higher speeds it is louder, but in normal use they do not need to run any faster than 1000-1300rpm. On i7 920 & 980 mine never goes above 950-1050rpm and temps are always below 50c, usually 43-48c at 100% load.

If you want to save on cost of cooler ,get a Thermalright TRUE Spirit 140 Power. and use a TY-143 or similar fan and it will cool 4-5c better than TC14PE. Even with stock TY-147 fan it is only 2-4c warmer than TC14PE.. and here they are only £36.36 and TY-143 are £6.99 at Amazon.

lennyrhys over on Bit-Tech dis some testing of NH-D14 and TRUE Spirit 140 Power with TY-143 fans. *Lenny monitored the temperature of air going into cooler and not the room ambient.*
Quote:


> All coolers were tested in an open case lying flat for ease of fan swapping and intake temperature monitoring. A Thermalright TY-147 (1200rpm) was positioned over the chipset to keep the motherboard and memory cool. Ambient room temperature was not measured; instead, a more specific and accurate measurement of intake temperature was used when calculating final results (thanks to doyll for this suggestion). The image below shows how I incorporated this approach into my testing, with the thermistor from a small electronic thermometer placed directly in the path of the intake fan.
> 
> I found that the intake temperature almost always differed from the ambient room temperature and, perhaps more significantly, it also varied a lot between tests, depending on the fan speed used and the positioning of the thermistor. With higher fan speeds the intake temperature fluctuated significantly because the exhaust air from the cooler was sometimes circulated back into the path of the intake fan; and with lower fan speeds the intake temperature was generally higher because there was no air current to remove the heat being dumped by the motherboard and memory.


http://forums.bit-tech.net/showthread.php?t=269339

He used 1200rpm as a comparison to stock fans on NH-D14 ... which is close to how stock NH-D14 fans perform. ... less than 2c difference? Same applies to TY-143 at 1200rpm vs TY-147 at 1300rpm as both perform exactly the same at the same up to 1300rpm ... the TY-143 just keeps on going up to 2500rpm. Notice how little difference adding 2nd fan makes.


Here is NH-D14 SE2011, TRUE Spirit 140 Power and TRUE Spirit 140 are highlighted for comparison. The TRUE Spirit 140 Power is only 1.6c warmer than NH-D14 SE2011 ... and that is using room ambient, not actual air temperature the coolers are ingesting.


Why do you have a Slip Stream fan in your list?


----------



## fateswarm

The Pro went available in 'central warehouse' according to some eu shops. The ships have docked?


----------



## RnRollie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fateswarm*
> 
> The Pro went available in 'central warehouse' according to some eu shops. The ships have docked?


Probably









The chinese cargo ships tend to have very uneventfull trips; especially considering that their routes take them through some pirate infested waters


----------



## fateswarm

I had an advantage by not having the case yet. I had to do a lot, but A LOT of tweaking on overclocking, delidding, applying pastes over and over etc. Now I start being "stable" so a case can be more easily accommodated.


----------



## WHIMington

Here is the test I done today using ASUA FAN Xeprt 2 and the build in hub that the PRO have:

The test is done through PWM control of the CPU_FAN port with the 4 pin lead fan giving constant 12V(checked by multimeter) and the sata power connected
Fan in use: AP15 x1 connected to the primary fan port
1x unknow 120mm fan
1x 180mm fan from a sharkoon case

Full RPM setting



lower RPM setting



even lower RPM setting



One thing that is keeping me from testing the full range is the voltage control is much less responsive then direct PWM controlI, fans tended to slow down much slower in voltage mode, that makes a very big problem when doing auto calibration program of the Fan Xeprt 2 software, as you can notice from the photos, the pwm range goes down to 10% while the fan is still spinning at about 1000 RPM, and since I am not sure how low the voltage can go I cannot test the full rated range of the fan. but the test does answer the most important question as to see if the hub can runs the fan to its top rated range, and the answer seems to be a yes.

I also tested the hub with an Aquaeor 6, but sadly the hub doesn't work with the controler with both voltage control and PWM control, which is a shame:sadsmiley


----------



## bond32

Wow.. Interesting. Guess I just have a defective fan hub. Thanks for that, +rep


----------



## bond32

Maybe I need to try a different fan... Literally just tried an almost identical test and I'm still getting the range of rpm control to be 1600-1800... Meaning, when everything is cool the board/software thinks 1600 is as low as it can get.


----------



## WHIMington

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> Wow.. Interesting. Guess I just have a defective fan hub. Thanks for that, +rep


I will redo the test next week at my dual off day as I want to test thing further, but I am sure that I am running PWM mode because at the CPU_OPT port I have a PWM splitter with 3 PWM fan connected and they are functioning like they used to in pwm mode.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> Maybe I need to try a different fan... Literally just tried an almost identical test and I'm still getting the range of rpm control to be 1600-1800... Meaning, when everything is cool the board/software thinks 1600 is as low as it can get.


Do you test it with multimeter? because it is the only way to be sure that the hub is putting correct voltage to the fan, for example in my test, if you done some math to change every thing into percentage they will match.

Edit: A little interesting info: if you look closer into the photos I take, you will notice the CPU_OPT fan speed, those fans that are connected to there are 2150 RPM rated PWM fans, since the Fan Xpert 2 auto calibrating program have messed up the fan profile the fan speed is also messed up as well. So if I were to blame anything that makes the fan hub not functioning, Fan Xpert 2 seems to be the one taking the most blame, so next week I will be testing the hub with CPU_OPT port while have the PWM fan splitter wire connected to the CPU_FAN port and do my calibration with that set of fans, and hopefully I will get some better results.


----------



## bond32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WHIMington*
> 
> I will redo the test next week at my dual off day as I want to test thing further, but I am sure that I am running PWM mode because at the CPU_OPT port I have a PWM splitter with 3 PWM fan connected and they are functioning like they used to in pwm mode.
> Do you test it with multimeter? because it is the only way to be sure that the hub is putting correct voltage to the fan, for example in my test, if you done some math to change every thing into percentage they will match.


No meter test yet, I actually don't have any alligator clips but I should still be able to check it. I did just test the fan xpert 2 with one of my 2200 rpm xspc fans, and it is doing the exact same - rpm range after the "fan tuning" shows 1500-2000 rpm... Maybe I need a different software version.

Edit: Testing with a meter I see it is a constant 12V to the individual fans, and I can hear the 2200 rpm fan changing speeds, however it is only changing down to about 1800-1900 then back up so the fan hub I have is either not 1. controlling the full range of pwm or 2. not reporting the rpm reading back to the board. Or both.


----------



## WHIMington

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> No meter test yet, I actually don't have any alligator clips but I should still be able to check it. I did just test the fan xpert 2 with one of my 2200 rpm xspc fans, and it is doing the exact same - rpm range after the "fan tuning" shows 1500-2000 rpm... Maybe I need a different software version.


If you can, get a 2200 RPM rated PWM fan to do the tuning before switching back to voltage fans, IMO fan xpert 2 is a sucker to play with


----------



## bond32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WHIMington*
> 
> If you can, get a 2200 RPM rated PWM fan to do the tuning before switching back to voltage fans, IMO fan xpert 2 is a sucker to play with


That's what I tried. Even then, the lowest rpm reading after the fan tuning was high 1800's...

I did confirm with the meter that the hub was getting a constant 12 volts, so even though I don't own any pwm fans I did see that the board is outputting what it "thinks" is a pwm fan.

Guess I will be trying to get a replacement hub now...

Edit: Just going to continue to use voltage control... It works well. I emailed Phanteks to see about getting a replacement fan hub...


----------



## WHIMington

Did you connect the fan directly to mobo when tuning or you connect the fan through the hub? because what I suggested is to use the 2200 PWM as a base mark on how the fan should performance under direct pwm control, then you can know what kind of RPM you should look for, like I said, voltage control is much less responsive then PWM, so when tuning directly the fan will not spin up or down as much as a true pwm fan does, usually if you have voltage control fan connected to other headers the auto tuning software in fan xperts will runs a bit longer to account for the control lag of voltage fans, with the mobo and fan xperts thinking the hub is a "real" PWM fan might cause problem, and this is what I want to test next week when I have time.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WHIMington*
> 
> I also tested the hub with an Aquaeor 6, but sadly the hub doesn't work with the controler with both voltage control and PWM control, which is a shame:sadsmiley


if I'm understanding your photos correctly, the hub is putting out from 8.3v to 12.2v from low to high. This indicates the hub is working.

I do not pretend to understand how Fan Xpert 2 software works. But my gut feeling is that it is not slowing the PWM signal to a low enough percentage and therefore the PWM to 3-in hub is not lowering the voltage and thus lowering the fan speed.

Gigabyte Easy Tune 6 allow me to sellect the PWM percentage ( they label it "Fan Speed % (RPM)" to CPU temp. setting to low end at 20% @ 30c and high end at 100% @ 70c my fans idle about 650-700rpm with CPU in mid to upper 20's Celsius and 950-1050rpm under 100% load with CPU in the mid to upper 40s Celsius. If I raise the fan speed / PWM % the fans almost immediately speed up ... as in they are ramping up as soon is I hit the "set" button.


----------



## WHIMington

Thats what I think as well, the auto tuning might have set the RPM line too high and actually affect the PWM signal


----------



## Krahe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Screetch82*
> 
> I know it's kinda overkill but I will only building this loop once. So I might as well kit the case out to the max and then only update the CPU and gpu in the future. However I like to turn the fans all the way down and still have the option to turn it up later.
> 
> Or should I just get a bottom 360 and keep the lower hdd cage?
> 
> There are small and large reservoir tanks. Which is better?


Same boat as you, have installed 2 480 rads in the primo, will post up some pics if you want. I did drill the rivets out and removed all the drive bays to give more room.
And about your res question size does not matter, temp will even out no matter what the size so pick what you prefer, hope that helps


----------



## Qu1ckset

Any of you guys know when the Phanteks enthoo evolve will be released?


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> Any of you guys know when the Phanteks enthoo evolve will be released?


Probably at least a year.


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Probably at least a year.


lol that seems extremely long, i was thinking months not a year.....


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> Any of you guys know when the Phanteks enthoo evolve will be released?


Well, barring someone from Phanteks chiming in, the best you'll probably get is a guess.
Soooo, let's see .....
The Enthoo Primo was first unveiled the beginning of June 2013, and the first cases shipped in the US on Oct 18.
The Enthoo Pro and Enthoo Luxe 



 the first week of January. The Pro first showed up ~5 weeks ago I think, and the Luxe has yet to appear.
The Mini XL and EVOLVE cases were 



 the 



 (~5 weeks ago).

I hope my timelines are correct.









My hunch is that the Luxe will either show up in the next couple weeks or will never make it to market, and that the Mini XL and EVOLVE cases will show up around Oct.

Someone should start a pool.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> Any of you guys know when the Phanteks enthoo evolve will be released?
> 
> 
> 
> Well, barring someone from Phanteks chiming in, the best you'll probably get is a guess.
> Soooo, let's see .....
> The Enthoo Primo was first unveiled the beginning of June 2013, and the first cases shipped in the US on Oct 18.
> The Enthoo Pro and Enthoo Luxe
> 
> 
> 
> the first week of January. The Pro first showed up ~5 weeks ago I think, and the Luxe has yet to appear.
> The Mini XL and EVOLVE cases were
> 
> 
> 
> the
> 
> 
> 
> (~5 weeks ago).
> 
> I hope my timelines are correct.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My hunch is that the Luxe will either show up in the next couple weeks or will never make it to market, and that the Mini XL and EVOLVE cases will show up around Oct.
> 
> Someone should start a pool.
Click to expand...

A pool is a good idea!









As for releases,
We are still waiting for the PWM fan hubs ... and replacement parts for Primo as available accessories.
Enthoo Pro is still not available in Europe, although I here their container ship is now here.
Enthoo Luxe is still in the rumor mill. Scuttlebutt is a few review samples are floating around. (no pun intended)
Elolve will be next year


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> A pool is a good idea!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As for releases,
> We are still waiting for the PWM fan hubs ... and replacement parts for Primo as available accessories.
> Enthoo Pro is still not available in Europe, although I here their container ship is now here.
> Enthoo Luxe is still in the rumor mill. Scuttlebutt is a few review samples are floating around. (no pun intended)
> Elolve will be next year


Well one can hope October







, if its early next year no complaints as this fall will be very hard on my wallet for console and phone purchases lol


----------



## Mako0312

I need the Luxe to come out soon or it's time for me to pick a new case


----------



## MrGrievous

Same here, its getting closer to college starting again for me and I really rather not move back there without a case


----------



## Mako0312

I'm thinking of just getting the Primo if I don't hear anything in the next month or so.

Hoping to watercool my cpu, and 780.


----------



## WHIMington

Actually both the pwm fan hub and the ssd bracket seems to already on sell in China(some toabao to be more specific), not sure if they actually have any stock though, have to ask their CS to confirm.

I would really like to see if they release a enthoo Luxe conversation kit for enthoo PRO as well as their chassis looks very similar.


----------



## Griffenxz

Still waiting for special edition orange Enthoo Primo


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WHIMington*
> 
> Actually both the pwm fan hub and the ssd bracket seems to already on sell in China(some toabao to be more specific), not sure if they actually have any stock though, have to ask their CS to confirm.
> 
> I would really like to see if they release a enthoo Luxe conversation kit for enthoo PRO as well as their chassis looks very similar.


Hmmm, interesting.



Fan hub
http://item.taobao.com/item.htm?spm=a230r.1.14.318.zAjrga&id=39239887841&ns=1#detail

Pump bracket
http://item.taobao.com/item.htm?spm=a230r.1.14.86.WoWdFW&id=39632845243&ns=1#detail

SSD Bracket
http://item.taobao.com/item.htm?spm=a230r.1.14.154.eVhJQd&id=39604315617&ns=1#detail


----------



## fateswarm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> lol that seems extremely long, i was thinking months not a year.....


They should be releasing closer to announcement true. Reminds of the pro I'm waiting. It didn't look that it would take that long for most of eu to get it.

They probably try to rush something out to compete on marketing with competition.

But it's customary to do it closer to release also to not seem empty promises.


----------



## MrGrievous

I sure hope so, but now the longer I wait the more I think about wanting a bigger case as I want a comfortable amount if over kill radiators lol and the luxe will not provide that for me







I'm thinking to save a bit more for a case labs now


----------



## Accursed Entity

Didn't HardwareCanucks say Phanteks shipped a Luxe to them? I think someone here mentioned and the post got lost in all this fan hub conversation...


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WHIMington*
> 
> Actually both the pwm fan hub and the ssd bracket seems to already on sell in China(some toabao to be more specific), not sure if they actually have any stock though, have to ask their CS to confirm.
> 
> I would really like to see if they release a enthoo Luxe conversation kit for enthoo PRO as well as their chassis looks very similar.


They are similar but I like the Luxe way more than Pro.
Enthoo Pro is 235x535x550 mm (W x H x D)
Enthoo Luxe is 235x560x550mm
Enthoo Luxe is *25mm talle*r. That allow for bigger radiators while case does not take up much more space.

The Enthoo Luxe has more features in common with Enthoo Primo. than Enthoo Pro has. Phanteks' original videos show how nicely appointed Enthoo Luxe is.
Enthoo Luxe





Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *WHIMington*
> 
> Actually both the pwm fan hub and the ssd bracket seems to already on sell in China(some toabao to be more specific), not sure if they actually have any stock though, have to ask their CS to confirm.
> 
> I would really like to see if they release a enthoo Luxe conversation kit for enthoo PRO as well as their chassis looks very similar.
> 
> 
> 
> Hmmm, interesting.
> 
> 
> 
> Fan hub
> http://item.taobao.com/item.htm?spm=a230r.1.14.318.zAjrga&id=39239887841&ns=1#detail
> 
> Pump bracket
> http://item.taobao.com/item.htm?spm=a230r.1.14.86.WoWdFW&id=39632845243&ns=1#detail
> 
> SSD Bracket
> http://item.taobao.com/item.htm?spm=a230r.1.14.154.eVhJQd&id=39604315617&ns=1#detail
Click to expand...

Good price for the hub too ... about $14.30 USD , £8.35 BPS, €10.54 EUR


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Accursed Entity*
> 
> Didn't HardwareCanucks say Phanteks shipped a Luxe to them? I think someone here mentioned and the post got lost in all this fan hub conversation...


Just found out Enthoo Pro is now available in UK!

Without window £79.99
http://www.overclockers.co.uk/showproduct.php?prodid=CA-003-PT&groupid=2362&catid=2674

With window £89.99
http://www.overclockers.co.uk/showproduct.php?prodid=CA-002-PT&groupid=2362&catid=2674

Have no idea why prices here in UK are 170% higher than American prices for same item ... and that is without VAT! $99.99 there and £74.99 here ... $128.68. There is little or no adjustment for exchange rate changes ... doesn't mater if BPS to USD is 20% different or 50% different. Same applies to Euro prices.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Accursed Entity*
> 
> Didn't HardwareCanucks say Phanteks shipped a Luxe to them? I think someone here mentioned and the post got lost in all this fan hub conversation...


I saw same or similar post, but can find no indication on web that it is true ... or that any samples are or will be available.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WHIMington*
> 
> Actually both the pwm fan hub and the ssd bracket seems to already on sell in China(some toabao to be more specific), not sure if they actually have any stock though, have to ask their CS to confirm.
> 
> I would really like to see if they release a enthoo Luxe conversation kit for enthoo PRO as well as their chassis looks very similar.


That would be a neat trick ... considering they are not the same size.
















Enthoo Pro is 235x535x550 mm (W x H x D)
Enthoo Luxe is 235x560x550mm
Enthoo Luxe is 25mm taller.


----------



## Wezzor

Hello guys!
Do you guys know what's seriously happening with the Phanteks Enthoo Pro? I mean since couple of weeks back my stores have been changing the date when it's going to get released and it's starting to get really frustrating. It should have been released today, but once again the release date have been changed and now it doesn't even say when the next release date is again..








I'm going to consider going for another case soon even if I don't want to but how long can you actually wait since I've all my new components laying around home for weeks now. Anyone that maybe know something about it or should or should I just contact them myself?


----------



## WHIMington

And I think I can confirm that Luxe have been on sell in China.

Made in China FTW
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> They are similar but I like the Luxe way more than Pro.
> Enthoo Pro is 235x535x550 mm (W x H x D)
> Enthoo Luxe is 235x560x550mm
> Enthoo Luxe is *25mm talle*r. That allow for bigger radiators while case does not take up much more space.
> 
> The Enthoo Luxe has more features in common with Enthoo Primo. than Enthoo Pro has. Phanteks' original videos show how nicely appointed Enthoo Luxe is.
> Enthoo Luxe
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Good price for the hub too ... about $14.30 USD , £8.35 BPS, €10.54 EUR


Well the problem is that from what all the video shows the only thing that is different is the top cover and the front panel that is higher and might have push pull support

EDIT: the model number is PK-614L , same as the PRO so yes I think I am correct







, now please Phanteks, I know you are listening, give us upgrades, and give us mods, and you will bite Cosair in their neck!


----------



## fateswarm

I told you the ships have docked in europe. Y NO believe me. Though, if you don't care about tax or shipping etc. a german shop had it for a few weeks.


----------



## Wezzor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fateswarm*
> 
> I told you the ships have docked in europe. Y NO believe me. Though, if you don't care about tax or shipping etc. a german shop had it for a few weeks.


Would you mind linking the page?


----------



## fateswarm

http://www.caseking.de/shop/catalog/Gehaeuse/Midi-Tower-Gehaeuse/PHANTEKS-Enthoo-Pro-Midi-Tower-schwarz-Window::27293.html?campaign=psm/geizhals

A few others have it now "on warehouse".


----------



## Wezzor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fateswarm*
> 
> http://www.caseking.de/shop/catalog/Gehaeuse/Midi-Tower-Gehaeuse/PHANTEKS-Enthoo-Pro-Midi-Tower-schwarz-Window::27293.html?campaign=psm/geizhals
> 
> A few others have it now "on warehouse".


Damn 25 euro shipping to Sweden. Didn't expect that much and then I guess the shipping can take up to 1 week also if unlucky... I really wonder how much longer it will take before it arrives here.


----------



## Screetch82

Ok so we more questions

I did originally want a monsta rad 480 in the bottom in push pull. Due to the thickness he fans will have to work harder than with a thinner rad and most of the cooling only comes out when run at very high rpm. Does it not make sense to also use a 45mm rad or the 60mm rad?

What is a a good rpm for the fans so they are silent and offer enough air for he rads?

The case comes with 5 140 mm fans. My top 420rad needs 6 more. The bottom rad needs 8 plus the pump.

The cases fan controller. Can adjust 11 fans. This doesn't add up. I heard many here use a independed fan controller like the Aquaero 5 LT . I can see the benefit of this as u can adjust fans independed of CPU load.
However the fan controller also only has 4 connectors.
How do I best wire all the fans?


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WHIMington*
> 
> And I think I can confirm that Luxe have been on sell in China.
> 
> Made in China FTW
> 
> Well the problem is that from what all the video shows the only thing that is different is the top cover and the front panel that is higher and might have push pull support
> 
> EDIT: the model number is PK-614L , same as the PRO so yes I think I am correct
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , now please Phanteks, I know you are listening, give us upgrades, and give us mods, and you will bite Cosair in their neck!


Thanks for that info about China release.
Luxe has many other differences than Pro... like being 25mm taller. and selectable color lighting for started.

Edit:
Looking at the Taobao site, it looks like the 25mm difference may be a 25mm thick top panel with side lighting and vent on same basic case as Pro. Maybe Luxe front and top panels could be put onto a Pro.

Edit again:
It would seem Taobao does not have a very good rep among buyers. ... kinda unreliable source.


----------



## WHIMington

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> They are similar but I like the Luxe way more than Pro.
> Enthoo Pro is 235x535x550 mm (W x H x D)
> Enthoo Luxe is 235x560x550mm
> Enthoo Luxe is *25mm talle*r. That allow for bigger radiators while case does not take up much more space.
> 
> The Enthoo Luxe has more features in common with Enthoo Primo. than Enthoo Pro has. Phanteks' original videos show how nicely appointed Enthoo Luxe is.
> Enthoo Luxe
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Good price for the hub too ... about $14.30 USD , £8.35 BPS, €10.54 EUR


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Thanks for that info about China release.
> Luxe has many other differences than Pro... like being 25mm taller. and selectable color lighting for started.
> 
> Edit:
> Looking at the Taobao site, it looks like the 25mm difference may be a 25mm thick top panel with side lighting and vent on same basic case as Pro. Maybe Luxe front and top panels could be put onto a Pro.
> 
> Edit again:
> It would seem Taobao does not have a very good rep among buyers. ... kinda unreliable source.


Using Taobao is dangerous for people who don't know where to look for good sellers, however the ones that were selling the case is a well respected seller in china WC community, so it is trustable.

My Pro actually came from another taobao seller who sell that case, and I get the case directly from factory because it is actually faster and cheaper for them to send it from there.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Yeah, hopefully that extra 25mm in height on the Luxe is because they made the top like the Primo with a removable filter and room for a set of fans on top of the case body so you'd have room for a 45mm rad in push-pull or a 60mm rad with one set of fans on top, instead if only room for a 30mm rad in push or pull only like with the Pro. That's sort of what it looks like but can't tell for sure.

I hope so. I'm thinking of buying the case for my nephew. I was considering getting him the Pro, but that top rad clearance was just too disappointing.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Screetch82*
> 
> Ok so we more questions
> 
> I did originally want a monsta rad 480 in the bottom in push pull. Due to the thickness he fans will have to work harder than with a thinner rad and most of the cooling only comes out when run at very high rpm. Does it not make sense to also use a 45mm rad or the 60mm rad?
> 
> What is a a good rpm for the fans so they are silent and offer enough air for he rads?
> 
> The case comes with 5 140 mm fans. My top 420rad needs 6 more. The bottom rad needs 8 plus the pump.
> 
> The cases fan controller. Can adjust 11 fans. This doesn't add up. I heard many here use a independed fan controller like the Aquaero 5 LT . I can see the benefit of this as u can adjust fans independed of CPU load.
> However the fan controller also only has 4 connectors.
> How do I best wire all the fans?


With fans in push-pull on a Monsta you don't need to run them "at very high rpm".

I'm running an XT45 480 in the top and a Monsta 360 in the bottom of my Primo with GeLid Wings fans (not the greatest performing rad fans, mind you, but they are no slouches either and are very quiet) that only run max 1200 rpms. I had all the fans on a Lamptron CW611 fan controller set in auto mode to run at ~800rpms and only if my loop temps went above the 25C target temp that I set would the controller begin stepping up the fan speeds in 2C increments if temps continued to rise. I never did see my temps continue to rise though so fans never went full blast no matter what I was doing.

To connect multiples of fans to a fan controller's channel header you will need to use either fan splitter cables or a hub of some sort.

FWIW, I'm using two NZXT Grid fan hubs, one for each rad on it's own controller channel, and for another channel I made my own splitter cable for all of the case fans. Do note that if you do use a hub like my Grid or a ModMyToys PCB they all seem to split all of the input traces to all of the ports which will be troublesome for a fan controller as all the fans would be reporting rpms on the same signal wire, corrupting the signal and making it unreadable. You would want to modify the hub so that only one fan reports rpms. Fortunately it's a very easy mod to do.











If instead of a hub/pcb, you go with fan splitter cables, most of the good ones only have a tach wire going to the first fan. By far the best fan splitter cables I've seen are 'Darkside' cables (made by Dazmode and also sold elsewhere like FrozenCPU). They have common sense variable length leads designed for use with radiators and the sleeving & quality all around are top notch. ModRight also has good splitter cables with lengths made for rads but they are not sleeved. I'd definitely avoid Phobya fan splitter cables known for poor quality / bad wiring problems (ask B Negative about that, lol) and I'd avoid Bitfenix cables also because they are the only splitter cables I've run into so far that had the tach wire going to every fan instead of only one. Besides, Phobya and Bitfenix splitters split all the leads the same length making it an octopus of cables hard to organize when trying to go to fans in 120mm/140mm steps around a rad.


----------



## WHIMington

I am actually trying to figure out how to mod the phantek hub to work with Aquaero 6, I have yet to set up the pull up mod that worked with D5 pumps to see if that work though.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WHIMington*
> 
> Using Taobao is dangerous for people who don't know where to look for good sellers, however the ones that were selling the case is a well respected seller in china WC community, so it is trustable.


Good to know.
Thanks for the information.

Being able to see pictures and specifications for Luxe is nice! After going over them some it appears both the Pro and Luxe use the same basic case, but have different front and top panels.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

The Phanteks hub seems neat on paper, but too many people seem to have issues with it (especially the one with the Pro for some reason) and it just doesn't make sense to me to even try to use if you are going to pack this case full of rads in push-pull. I know Jack will argue with me about this, seeing as he's using two hubs already and wants a third that he's got hooked to voltage controlled headers so he's just using each of them as a splitter, and a very ugly splitter at that imho. Besides, I couldn't stand having all those cables going headers all over the mobo nor stealing that much power from my Mobo which would wreak havoc on my overclock settings on the RIVBE. If you are going to have 15-20 fans if not more in the case then it just makes more sense to me to get a good fan controller and be done with it.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WHIMington*
> 
> I am actually trying to figure out how to mod the phantek hub to work with Aquaero 6, I have yet to set up the pull up mod that worked with D5 pumps to see if that work though.


Might be interesting what you are doing for testing purposes, but there's I don't really see the need nor advantage to be had by using the Phanteks hub with an AQ6, unless all you are wanting to use it for is a splitter, in which case I do hope you get it figured out. Would make more sense just to use a splitter cable or a hub/pcb actually made for that purpose imho, but that's just me.


----------



## WHIMington

If you ask me why then my answer would be why not? I like modding things, I like making things, and I like fixing things, I am an aircraft mechanic FFS.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Yeah, hopefully that extra 25mm in height on the Luxe is because they made the top like the Primo with a removable filter and room for a set of fans on top of the case body so you'd have room for a 45mm rad in push-pull or a 60mm rad with one set of fans on top, instead if only room for a 30mm rad in push or pull only like with the Pro. That's sort of what it looks like but can't tell for sure.
> 
> I hope so. I'm thinking of buying the case for my nephew. I was considering getting him the Pro, but that top rad clearance was just too disappointing.


That is what it looks like. I'll get some pics up a little later
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> The Phanteks hub seems neat on paper, but too many people seem to have issues with it (especially the one with the Pro for some reason) and it just doesn't make sense to me to even try to use if you are going to pack this case full of rads in push-pull. I know Jack will argue with me about this, seeing as he's using two hubs already and wants a third that he's got hooked to voltage controlled headers so he's just using each of them as a splitter, and a very ugly splitter at that imho. Besides, I couldn't stand having all those cables going headers all over the mobo nor stealing that much power from my Mobo which would wreak havoc on my overclock settings on the RIVBE. If you are going to have 15-20 fans if not more in the case then it just makes more sense to me to get a good fan controller and be done with it.
> .


Just sent Phanteks an email about the PWM hub problems and delays in Enthoo Luxe being released. Hopefully will hear back in the next day or two.


----------



## RnRollie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> That is what it looks like. I'll get some pics up a little later
> Just sent Phanteks an email about the PWM hub problems and delays in Enthoo Luxe being released. Hopefully will hear back in the next day or two.












... the next day or two....










yeah , if they are not in the Valve timezone https://developer.valvesoftware.com/wiki/Valve_Time


----------



## Accursed Entity

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PureBlackFire*
> 
> just be on the lookout for the Luxe review. Dmitiri from HardwareCanuks has confirmed a sample is on the way for review.


Where did you see that confirmation? I can't find it.

Just in case anyone was wondering about taobao, this is the link for the Luxe there.
http://item.taobao.com/item.htm?spm=a230r.1.14.1.gBd0IU&id=39946840407&ns=1#detail


----------



## doyll

Managed to clob together the Enthoo Pro specs from Phanteks and Enthoo Luxe specs from Taobao

Obviously the Enthoo Pro also includes a PH-F200SP 800rpm; 110.1cfm; 1.04mm H2O fan. I think the Enthoo Luxe includes 2x PH-F140SP and 1x PH-F200SP


----------



## Dorito Bandit

The Enthoo Luxe is a very nice looking case, no doubt about it, but I honestly think the Enthoo Pro looks a little better. I'd certainly have either one of them, but I am happy with my Pro.









I noticed that the Luxe has 2 SSD drive brackets. The Pro has only one. Would have liked to have had 2 for the Pro.


----------



## doyll

Hopefully Phanteks will soon get the SSD bracket to market as an accessory ... and the PWM fan hub too.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dorito Bandit*
> 
> The Enthoo Luxe is a very nice looking case, no doubt about it, but I honestly think the Enthoo Pro looks a little better. I'd certainly have either one of them, but I am happy with my Pro.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I noticed that the Luxe has 2 SSD drive brackets. The Pro has only one. Would have liked to have had 2 for the Pro.


Baah! Luxe looks much nicer! Can even choose lighting color to match our moods.


----------



## Dorito Bandit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Baah! Luxe looks much nicer! Can even choose lighting color to match our moods.


If you're 12, then yes, being able to change the color of the lighting will be super duper awesome! OOOOOOOO, you can change the colors of the lights! OOOOOOOOOOO!









Also, I joined the Phanteks forum earlier today as *GEORGIA DAWG*, and was just browsing around the forums and noticed you're there too. Sadly, that place seems to be dead atm! Hopefully it will pick up with the release of the new cases.

Phanteks has designed some very nice cases and I am a proud owner of the Pro. I'll certainly do my part in spreading the word about them.


----------



## Accursed Entity

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dorito Bandit*
> 
> If you're 12, then yes, being able to change the color of the lighting will be super duper awesome! OOOOOOOO, you can change the colors of the lights! OOOOOOOOOOO!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also, I joined the Phanteks forum earlier today as *GEORGIA DAWG*, and was just browsing around the forums and noticed you're there too. Sadly, that place seems to be dead atm! Hopefully it will pick up with the release of the new cases.
> 
> Phanteks has designed some very nice cases and I am a proud owner of the Pro. I'll certainly do my part in spreading the word about them.


I'm 28 years old and I like leds


----------



## Dorito Bandit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Accursed Entity*
> 
> I'm 28 years old and I like leds


I was only joking, bro.







In fact, I am thinking of getting a white LED strip for the inside of my Pro.


----------



## Accursed Entity

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dorito Bandit*
> 
> I was only joking, bro.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In fact, I am thinking of getting a white LED strip for the inside of my Pro.


Yeah that's what I thought haha Do you have a pic gallery of you Pro? I'd love to see it. Maybe you posted some here and I didn't see them?


----------



## evornoss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Accursed Entity*
> 
> Yeah that's what I thought haha Do you have a pic gallery of you Pro? I'd love to see it. Maybe you posted some here and I didn't see them?


Yes please share them pics with us!


----------



## Dorito Bandit

*Enthoo Pro*
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Accursed Entity*
> 
> Yeah that's what I thought haha Do you have a pic gallery of you Pro? I'd love to see it. Maybe you posted some here and I didn't see them?


Was waiting to get my friends DSLR to take some pics at a later date. I took some with my phone, but they are not very good. Kind of awful to be honest. The pics of the box turned out pretty good, though! LOL When I get enough time and the DSLR I would like to take some pics for this thread. I would also like to do a review on the case.

Hopefully I can get some decent pics for the thread soon. Hopefully!


----------



## Accursed Entity

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dorito Bandit*
> 
> *Enthoo Pro*
> Was waiting to get my friends DSLR to take some pics at a later date. I took some with my phone, but they are not very good. Kind of awful to be honest. The pics of the box turned out pretty good, though! LOL When I get enough time and the DSLR I would like to take some pics for this thread. I would also like to do a review on the case.
> 
> Hopefully I can get some decent pics for the thread soon. Hopefully!


Fair enough, that's a good reason, I'll wait!


----------



## RnRollie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Hopefully Phanteks will soon get the SSD bracket to market as an accessory ... and the PWM fan hub too.


Who needs brackets? Ever since velcro was invented in the '50s .....









There is something to be said for the fan-hub thou... there aren't too many devices on the market that can take a PWM "input" and "convert" it to Voltage. If it would also be reasonably priced, the hub is a nice gizmo for those who limp hopelessly behind "the PWM revolution".

Although its only a temporary bridge to the future... at some point in the future you'll get "smart" individually controllable fans, they only have to agree on a (common) BUS or on WiFi.
In todays domotica systems it already exists (in showrooms): lightbulbs which can be individually controlled - they have their own unique address (ipv6?) on your home network and you can use your smartphone to control them indirectly (you have to authorised by your central domotica controller).
So, the technology is there.. now it's just waiting for a couple a smart Chinese to say "lets borrow this idea/patent and start mass-producing these fans"









.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RnRollie*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Hopefully Phanteks will soon get the SSD bracket to market as an accessory ... and the PWM fan hub too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Who needs brackets? Ever since velcro was invented in the '50s .....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There is something to be said for the fan-hub thou... there aren't too many devices on the market that can take a PWM "input" and "convert" it to Voltage. If it would also be reasonably priced, the hub is a nice gizmo for those who limp hopelessly behind "the PWM revolution".
> 
> Although its only a temporary bridge to the future... at some point in the future you'll get "smart" individually controllable fans, they only have to agree on a (common) BUS or on WiFi.
> In todays domotica systems it already exists (in showrooms): lightbulbs which can be individually controlled - they have their own unique address (ipv6?) on your home network and you can use your smartphone to control them indirectly (you have to authorised by your central domotica controller).
> So, the technology is there.. now it's just waiting for a couple a smart Chinese to say "lets borrow this idea/patent and start mass-producing these fans"
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
Click to expand...

Phanteks hub is now available in China ... probably other Asian countries too. Price seems to be about right as Chinese price is the equivalent of about $14.00 USD.

Arctic F12 TC fans do have built in thermostatic control.


----------



## firefoxx04

Does anyone know if we can buy the psu cover for the pro? Id like to cut it down to make it shorter in order to fit a 240rad vertically against the drive cages with a single set of fans. Preferably I would buy a backup cover to swap in and out as needed depending on my rad configuration.


----------



## Dorito Bandit

*Enthoo Pro*
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *firefoxx04*
> 
> Does anyone know if we can buy the psu cover for the pro? Id like to cut it down to make it shorter in order to fit a 240rad vertically against the drive cages with a single set of fans. Preferably I would buy a backup cover to swap in and out as needed depending on my rad configuration.


The Pro comes with a PSU cover. If you are asking if you can buy a spare cover, well I would certainly think so.


----------



## WHIMington

Actually, tell you what guys, screw the conversion kit idea, I have a second WC computer, I will just buy the Luxe for my current new built and put my old system into the Pro with all the rads that I have no use for now


----------



## Qu1ckset

Man Phanteks really got to get some community reps out, I've heard a couple people in this thread talk about reaching out to Phanteks about when the Luxe will be released and said no answer , going threw there FB, every single one of there posts have tons of comments of people asking where the LUXE , people don't mind waiting of you give them solid dates , and don't ignore potential customers... They are sitting on gold right now with these highly innovative chassis , they just need to get there supply chain in order and work on informing the PC community on delays and what not...

I want the evolv so bad but after seeing how long it's taking the luxe to hit shelves will prolly be waiting awhile , but I'm in a different situation then others I have a working PC and have no rush to get the case and can wait with what I have , but others are waiting on the case to compleat there builds , others have moved on or are on the fence about moving on.... Hopefully after these case released there future releases go smoother and faster!


----------



## bond32

Have any of you with the pro taken the front 5.25 drive cages apart to fit a 360mm radiator up front yet?? Thinking about doing that...


----------



## fateswarm

Am I dreaming? My preorder since the dawn of time shows "available".


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WHIMington*
> 
> Actually, tell you what guys, screw the conversion kit idea, I have a second WC computer, I will just buy the Luxe for my current new built and put my old system into the Pro with all the rads that I have no use for now


That's the spirit!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fateswarm*
> 
> Am I dreaming? My preorder since the dawn of time shows "available".


Soumds right. Enthoo Pro is in-stock here in UK now. too.


----------



## doyll

Some Enthoo Luxe pics copied from Taobao sight:


----------



## Dorito Bandit

doyll,

In all of your excitement, I see you also included 2 pics of the Pro. Pics number 8 & 12.







Man that Pro case is beautiful!







Truthfully, I like them both.

By the way, I wonder if the front and top piece for the Luxe would also fit the Pro? They're pretyy similar in size.


----------



## fateswarm

Ironic that I find the pro better looking.


----------



## Dorito Bandit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fateswarm*
> 
> Ironic that I find the pro better looking.


As I've said before, they're both very nice looking cases, but yes, I do think the Pro looks better. I like the "cleaner" sleek look of the Pro. Plus, I already own it!


----------



## Digital X

Tempting to buy one, but there's a plethora of cables there at the back, how easy it to squeeze the Mobo and PCIe cables behind there too? I'd have to get custom psu cables I think.


----------



## bond32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Digital X*
> 
> Tempting to buy one, but there's a plethora of cables there at the back, how easy it to squeeze the Mobo and PCIe cables behind there too? I'd have to get custom psu cables I think.


It's not bad at all. Both the Pro and Primo have ample room. I have had both cases. I have an EVGA 1300 watt g2 and all the cables out of it routed just fine. There's a nice little area on the back side to stuff excess cable-age.


----------



## firefoxx04

routing the cables is a breeze. Amazing for a $100 case. Expected for the $200 primo.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dorito Bandit*
> 
> doyll,
> 
> In all of your excitement, I see you also included 2 pics of the Pro. Pics number 8 & 12.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Man that Pro case is beautiful!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Truthfully, I like them both.
> 
> By the way, I wonder if the front and top piece for the Luxe would also fit the Pro? They're pretyy similar in size.


I kind of wish the pro's top was tall enough to fit fans above the mounting point. I know the Luxe is a bit taller and might be able to do push/pull configs without needing a super thing rad. The top is also pretty restrictive. I removed the metal grill and filter and gained a substantial amount of air flow even at low speeds.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dorito Bandit*
> 
> doyll,
> 
> In all of your excitement, I see you also included 2 pics of the Pro. Pics number 8 & 12.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Man that Pro case is beautiful!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Truthfully, I like them both.
> 
> By the way, I wonder if the front and top piece for the Luxe would also fit the Pro? They're pretyy similar in size.


I just copied pics from Taobao ... and it's in Chinese ... which I don't understand.








It might be possible. The specifications look the same except for height and the top panel looks more like the Luxe has a thicker top like Primo has
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Digital X*
> 
> Tempting to buy one, but there's a plethora of cables there at the back, how easy it to squeeze the Mobo and PCIe cables behind there too? I'd have to get custom psu cables I think.


Specs say 27mm clearance behind motherboard and in 39mm in PSU area.


----------



## Digital X

Alright cheers, might swing me away from the C70 and H440 i looked at, it's a nice price.


----------



## Fantomau

Havent been here in awhile, due to having health issues, had quadropple bypass.

Heres my new non-custom water cooled setup.





Love this case, But would like to know how to change the main big smoked side window and leave the smaller one how it is.

Has anyone changed their windows and changed the blue led strip to a different color. I'd like mine to be red instead and change the power led to white and the hdd led to red.

Any help would be appreciated.

Also is this a official enthos group, how do i join?


----------



## owcraftsman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fantomau*
> 
> Havent been here in awhile, due to having health issues, had quadropple bypass.
> 
> Heres my new non-custom water cooled setup.
> 
> Love this case, But would like to know how to change the main big smoked side window and leave the smaller one how it is.
> 
> Has anyone changed their windows and changed the blue led strip to a different color. I'd like mine to be red instead and change the power led to white and the hdd led to red.
> 
> Any help would be appreciated.
> 
> Also is this a official enthos group, how do i join?


The led strip has been discussed extensively within this thread back about 5 months ago and if you read the OP you will find this link http://themodzoo.com/forum/index.php?/topic/883-enthoo-primo-front-led-color-change which should help you. My side panel glass is awful and I've been waiting 6 months for Phanteks to replace it. I've stopped holding my breath. The only reason I haven't replaced it myself is voiding the warranty because the tabs will have to go IMO. My thought are to remove them and use velcro for the new glass for the cleanest look


----------



## Dorito Bandit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fantomau*
> 
> Havent been here in awhile, due to having health issues, had quadropple bypass.
> 
> Heres my new non-custom water cooled setup.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Love this case, But would like to know how to change the main big smoked side window and leave the smaller one how it is.
> 
> Has anyone changed their windows and changed the blue led strip to a different color. I'd like mine to be red instead and change the power led to white and the hdd led to red.
> 
> Any help would be appreciated.
> 
> Also is this a official enthos group, how do i join?


First of all, hope you're doing well after your surgery.

That's a nice looking rig you have there. As for joining the owners club, hopefully doyll will respond to you soon about that. Maybe he will also get around to adding an owner's list to the original post, soon. Man, I bet that would be a fun job to do!


----------



## cgull

@ Fantomau hope your recovery goes well.. you now have internal custom tubing to look after..


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fantomau*
> 
> Havent been here in awhile, due to having health issues, had quadropple bypass.
> 
> Heres my new non-custom water cooled setup.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Love this case, But would like to know how to change the main big smoked side window and leave the smaller one how it is.
> 
> Has anyone changed their windows and changed the blue led strip to a different color. I'd like mine to be red instead and change the power led to white and the hdd led to red.
> 
> Any help would be appreciated.
> 
> Also is this a official enthos group, how do i join?


Good to see you back!
Quad bypass! :lmaosmilee |I bet you are feeling much better now! .. aside from the surgery healing.
Nice looking rig.


----------



## Alvarez

Hello gents,

I am considering to renew/modify my current build for maxwell so i was looking for a case. While i was kinda `hesisant`about Haf Stacker, i checked some reviews of Primo and decided to go with it. Now i`m preparing, calculating what i need for the loop for late August or September, i almost finished the setup in my head which is:

1 480 rad on bottom of the case with 4 Corsair SP 120 High performance edition
Alphacool 150mm reservoir
Alphacool VPP655 Pump

I got 3 issues:

1. I dont know which fans i should get for intake and neutralize pressure in the case or even let more air in, so hot airflow from rads will be exhausted

2. I dont know where to put the pump. I was thinking to use pump bay behind the motherboard but then how should i route the loop ? I checked some photos on the net and noticed that most of the people are using either res+pump combo or bay res (i hate bay res, it makes noise)

3. As for the fan controller i was thinking to get Scythe Kaze Master, but now im thinking for Phobya touch controller, so it can fit in front of the case.

Thanks in advance


----------



## RnRollie

1. re-arrange the Phanteks fans that come with it

2. if behind MB, route carefully.







There are so many possibilities.... Put a Swiftech MCR-DRIVE on top and you don't need a separate pump or res: http://www.swiftech.com/mcr-x20-drive-rev3.aspx

3. Why? Just use the FanHub which comes with the case and drive it with PWM


----------



## doyll

Welcome to the group Alvarez. We have some very knowledgeable people here to answer to all your questions .









480 Monsta in bottom is no problem. Several have done it .. Jesse over at TheModZoo is first that pops to mind. He did a very detailed review / build with 480 in bottom.

http://themodzoo.com/forum/index.php?/page/articles.html/_/reviews/cases/phanteks-enthoo-primo-full-tower-review-r67?pg=6

Some of us use castor bases to increase airflow area to bottom of case .. stock venting is about same size as a single 120mm fan's airflow area. I've built several. Raising case 35mm gives vent airflow area about same as 4x 120mm fans have.
Easy is blocks under corners, Primo Midas on 30mm castors, another on 30mm casters, and one with 40mm castor base.
   

Base is open for airflow. Just ask if you need more info.








http://www.overclock.net/t/1418637/official-case-phanteks-club-enthoo-primo-enthoo-pro-lovers-owners/2860_20#post_21731836
What RnRolle siad about fan control.


----------



## Alvarez

RnRollie and doyll,

Thanks for quick responses. Since im living in Swiss my waterxooling options are limited with aquatuning and couple of other small vendors unfortunately, due to the high shipping costs (It costs 100 bucks if i buy something from frozen cpu for instance)

I ended up with two schemes:



This one is complicated and all hypothetical, since i couldnt find info in manual nor any other reviews regarding the wideness between bracket and mobo tray. Basically there will be fill port on res, loop continues to pump, pump pumps the liquid to cpu by passing between bracket and mobo tray, it then passes to maxwell card and my current 570 (which im thinking to use as physx card. Loop goes to Alphacool 45mm quad rad then goes back to reservoir (not the pump sorry)

Second one is easier i guess:



Res - pump behind the mobo - pass in front of bracket (or ill remove it) to cpu - gpus - to rad - and res.

I asked about fan controller because im thinking to undervolt SP120s to get a silent rig but conserve the possiblity of superior cooling when it`s necessary, by checking the manual of the case, i think i will connect FAN1 of the fan hub to mobo to control speeds right ? If i dont have separated fan controller ?

Even if thats the case, i think i wont able to control fans separately, (use standart speed for exhaust and intake while reduce the speed of rad fans for example)


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alvarez*
> 
> RnRollie and doyll,
> 
> Thanks for quick responses. Since im living in Swiss my waterxooling options are limited with aquatuning and couple of other small vendors unfortunately, due to the high shipping costs (It costs 100 bucks if i buy something from frozen cpu for instance)


I am not of much help with H2O but have heard the performance improvement of radiators decreases as thickness increases. A360mm radiator 30mm thick cools 181 watts, 45mm thick cools 183 watts, 60mm thick cools 188 watts and Monsta cools 197 watts. I'm not sure, but it seems logical that tow 30mm thick radiators will cool better than one 80mm thick radiator.








Data from the curves .....360 rads @ 1250 rpm ...1st three were martins
ST30 = 181 watts
XT45 = 183
UT60 = 188
Monsta = 197

JackNaylorPE explains it here:
http://www.overclock.net/t/1418637/official-case-phanteks-club-enthoo-primo-enthoo-pro-lovers-owners/3620_20#post_22133940


----------



## chrisnyc75

Not exactly. Generally speaking, thicker radiators do cool better.... but it's also more about fpi (fins per inch), flow design, and a lot of other factors. According to Martinsliquidlab, modern rads really all perform about the same -- you're equally good with a XT45 as a Monsta as long as you have proper fans & loop design.

With the Primo, stick a 80mm Monsta in the bottom, because WHY NOT. Put a XT45 for the top, where you have more space restriction.


----------



## firefoxx04

Speaking of the smoked windows, is there a way to 'clean' them and make them clear?


----------



## chrisnyc75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *firefoxx04*
> 
> Speaking of the smoked windows, is there a way to 'clean' them and make them clear?


You mean remove the smoked tint? No.

For cleaning, try http://www.amazon.com/Novus-Plastic-Polish-Scratch-Remover/dp/B000J41VDM

Do NOT use Windex or other glass cleaners, you'll just scratch/damage the plexi.


----------



## Alvarez

doyll and chrisnyc75,

Well... 480mm monsta rad looks.. tempting. While my plan was thinner one + pull with SP120s i might go with monsta and do push and pull with Yate Loon D12SL-12 fans (because cheaper) noise level however is my concern

I almost finished the rig upgrade, ready for order in mid-August or September:

Compression fittngs
Clear tubing
1x Alphacool Nexxxos Quad Rad with 60mm thickness UT60 (I measured current one it was 45mm so i"m getting either 60mm or Monsta like you guys suggested)
4x Corsair SP120 High Perf edition
1x Alphacool Cape Corp 15LT (150x50mm)
Res clips
1x Alphacool VPP655 Pump
1x Monsoon lighting module for res - blue
2x Mayhem Ice White (hoping it wont screw the build) 1LT for each
1x Phanteks Enthoo Primo White
1x Samsung Evo Basic 512GB
1x Hitachi Deskstar 7K4000
1x Corsair AX860i (for GTX570, OCed 3770K and 880 in future)
Gonna change all cables with white as well, also do some modding on rads, paint them to matte white

Meanwhile, i found this gallery on imgur, in case it wasnt published here:



http://imgur.com/AkcVy


Im thinking to make the loop similar to this, meaning pump will be connected to cpu by the tubing which will pass behind the mobo (i might use 90+45 rotary fittings to rotate the tube just around the top rubber grommets


----------



## bond32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alvarez*
> 
> doyll and chrisnyc75,
> 
> Well... 480mm monsta rad looks.. tempting. While my plan was thinner one + pull with SP120s i might go with monsta and do push and pull with Yate Loon D12SL-12 fans (because cheaper) noise level however is my concern
> 
> I almost finished the rig upgrade, ready for order in mid-August or September:
> 
> Compression fittngs
> Clear tubing
> 1x Alphacool Nexxxos Quad Rad with 60mm thickness UT60 (I measured current one it was 45mm so i"m getting either 60mm or Monsta like you guys suggested)
> 4x Corsair SP120 High Perf edition
> 1x Alphacool Cape Corp 15LT (150x50mm)
> Res clips
> 1x Alphacool VPP655 Pump
> 1x Monsoon lighting module for res - blue
> 2x Mayhem Ice White (hoping it wont screw the build) 1LT for each
> 1x Phanteks Enthoo Primo White
> 1x Samsung Evo Basic 512GB
> 1x Hitachi Deskstar 7K4000
> 1x Corsair AX860i (for GTX570, OCed 3770K and 880 in future)
> Gonna change all cables with white as well, also do some modding on rads, paint them to matte white
> 
> Meanwhile, i found this gallery on imgur, in case it wasnt published here:
> 
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/AkcVy
> 
> 
> Im thinking to make the loop similar to this, meaning pump will be connected to cpu by the tubing which will pass behind the mobo (i might use 90+45 rotary fittings to rotate the tube just around the top rubber grommets


If you're concerned about noise then you might want to look at a different fan other than the corsairs... They are pretty painful. Performance is sub-par too. If you look hard enough you can find some AP-14's for a reasonable price still. I would just get those and run them at full speed.


----------



## Alvarez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> If you're concerned about noise then you might want to look at a different fan other than the corsairs... They are pretty painful. Performance is sub-par too. If you look hard enough you can find some AP-14's for a reasonable price still. I would just get those and run them at full speed.


Hmm, interesting. Everyone was recommending those particular fans so thats why i went with them. I am using my precious Gentle Typhoons but i had 2 fans, i none of the vendors in my country or surroundings are selling GTs anymore *sad face*


----------



## chrisnyc75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alvarez*
> 
> doyll and chrisnyc75,
> 
> Well... 480mm monsta rad looks.. tempting. While my plan was thinner one + pull with SP120s i might go with monsta and do push and pull with Yate Loon D12SL-12 fans (because cheaper) noise level however is my concern


Honestly, with that much radiator surface area & thickness you'll barely need the fans on at all. My Noiseblockers (6 push/pull on bottom) & Corsairs (6 push/pull on top) barely run 700rpm most of the time and keep the system around room temperature at idle. I could probably turn them off and notice no difference in temp. At load, there's very little difference between 1000rpm and 2000rpm, other than noise. Which is to say, the radiators are so efficient you really don't need ramp up the fans very much unless you're doing some serious benching that generates serious heat.

Fwiw, I have no complaints about my SP120s. I like the Noiseblockers better, but they're damn expensive.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chrisnyc75*
> 
> Not exactly. Generally speaking, thicker radiators do cool better.... but it's also more about fpi (fins per inch), flow design, and a lot of other factors. According to Martinsliquidlab, modern rads really all perform about the same -- you're equally good with a XT45 as a Monsta as long as you have proper fans & loop design.
> 
> With the Primo, stick a 80mm Monsta in the bottom, because WHY NOT. Put a XT45 for the top, where you have more space restriction.


There are all kinds of variables. The point is just as I showed with the copy from jacks writeup. The thicker the radiator gets the less improvement is gained with the added thickness.

All are 360mm radiators:
ST30 = 181 watts cooling
XT45 = 183 watts = 3 watt better cooling with 15mm added thickness
UT60 = 188 watts = 7 watts better cooler with 30mm added thickness = twice as thick
Monsta = 197 watts = 16 watts better cooling with 45mm additional thickness.

2x ST30 = 362 watts cooling with less total thickness than than a Monsta with 197 watts cooling .. a net increase of 165 watts of additional cooling

Alphacool NexXxoS ST30 full copper 360 is £46.62
Alphacool NexXroS Monster 360 is £82.46

Monsta 480 is £103.78
ST30 480 is £56.88

Thick radiators are great option if there is not room for more radiator surface area. Using a single 480 monsta in a case designed to easily accommodate over 1 meter .length of .radiators is not being efficient.


----------



## Screetch82

Which pump should i get? I guess I don't need to speed control it and just hock it up to the psu. However a temp or/flow sensor in the pump would be nice. This could then trigger the speed for the fans of all rads. So the fans that come with he case are pwm? Should I just get all pwm for the rads too and use a pwm splitter for each rad and connect them to the case fan controller or to the mobo? Or do they draw too much power and I better buy a fan controller? I like to have the fans run around 700 to stay quite but if the loop water temp goes up to 35. Or 45 I would wanna get the fans running quicker

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## Screetch82

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *chrisnyc75*
> 
> Not exactly. Generally speaking, thicker radiators do cool better.... but it's also more about fpi (fins per inch), flow design, and a lot of other factors. According to Martinsliquidlab, modern rads really all perform about the same -- you're equally good with a XT45 as a Monsta as long as you have proper fans & loop design.
> 
> With the Primo, stick a 80mm Monsta in the bottom, because WHY NOT. Put a XT45 for the top, where you have more space restriction.
> 
> 
> 
> There are all kinds of variables. The point is just as I showed with the copy from jacks writeup. The thicker the radiator gets the less improvement is gained with the added thickness.
> 
> All are 360mm radiators:
> ST30 = 181 watts cooling
> XT45 = 183 watts = 3 watt better cooling with 15mm added thickness
> UT60 = 188 watts = 7 watts better cooler with 30mm added thickness = twice as thick
> Monsta = 197 watts = 16 watts better cooling with 45mm additional thickness.
> 
> 2x ST30 = 362 watts cooling with less total thickness than than a Monsta with 197 watts cooling .. a net increase of 165 watts of additional cooling
> 
> Alphacool NexXxoS ST30 full copper 360 is £46.62
> Alphacool NexXroS Monster 360 is £82.46
> 
> Monsta 480 is £103.78
> ST30 480 is £56.88
> 
> Thick radiators are great option if there is not room for more radiator surface area. Using a single 480 monsta in a case designed to easily accommodate over 1 meter .length of .radiators is not being efficient.
Click to expand...

However at higher fan rpm he cooling wattage difference is different than what u listed. So at 2000rpm who will get a lot higher increase with a thick rad. So 45mm increase in thickness may result in extra 200 watts of cooling

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## chrisnyc75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> There are all kinds of variables. The point is just as I showed with the copy from jacks writeup. The thicker the radiator gets the less improvement is gained with the added thickness.
> 
> All are 360mm radiators:
> ST30 = 181 watts cooling
> XT45 = 183 watts = 3 watt better cooling with 15mm added thickness
> UT60 = 188 watts = 7 watts better cooler with 30mm added thickness = twice as thick
> Monsta = 197 watts = 16 watts better cooling with 45mm additional thickness.
> 
> 2x ST30 = 362 watts cooling with less total thickness than than a Monsta with 197 watts cooling .. a net increase of 165 watts of additional cooling
> 
> Alphacool NexXxoS ST30 full copper 360 is £46.62
> Alphacool NexXroS Monster 360 is £82.46
> 
> Monsta 480 is £103.78
> ST30 480 is £56.88
> 
> Thick radiators are great option if there is not room for more radiator surface area. Using a single 480 monsta in a case designed to easily accommodate over 1 meter .length of .radiators is not being efficient.


All of which means, exactly as I said, "thicker radiators do generally cool better". I did not say there weren't diminishing returns on radiator thickness (which is the short version of what you said).


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chrisnyc75*
> 
> All of which means, exactly as I said, "thicker radiators do generally cool better". I did not say there weren't diminishing returns on radiator thickness (which is the short version of what you said).


My original post
Quote:


> I am not of much help with H2O but have heard the performance improvement of radiators decreases as thickness increases. A360mm radiator 30mm thick cools 181 watts, 45mm thick cools 183 watts, 60mm thick cools 188 watts and Monsta cools 197 watts. I'm not sure, but it seems logical that tow 30mm thick radiators will cool better than one 80mm thick radiator. wink.gif
> Data from the curves .....360 rads @ 1250 rpm ...1st three were martins
> ST30 = 181 watts
> XT45 = 183
> UT60 = 188
> Monsta = 197
> 
> JackNaylorPE explains it here:
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1418637/official-case-phanteks-club-enthoo-primo-enthoo-pro-lovers-owners/3620_20#post_22133940


Says the same thing. Maybe in a few less words, but exactly the same thing.

So why do you keep trying to rattle my cage?








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Screetch82*
> 
> However at higher fan rpm he cooling wattage difference is different than what u listed. So at 2000rpm who will get a lot higher increase with a thick rad. So 45mm increase in thickness may result in extra 200 watts of cooling
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


Making several times more noise.


----------



## Screetch82

Haha Sorry Year. Lest Talk about which pump And Fan Controller i should get or if i will be Fine with The Primo controller

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Push-pull on a thicker rad renders those wattage numbers obsolete imho. I can't even take those numbers seriously no matter what their source is. My 360 monsta blows away my 480 XT45 in cooling performance, both in push pull using the same fans, starting at even 800rpms whether they are mounted in my case or on a bench. It's not even close between them. I've sat here and played with them on the bench running with just one rad and then the other. At 1000 rpms the loop temps are always more than 1C lower with the 360 and by 1200rpms it's several degrees difference. I have to almost stop the fans from spinning at all for the 480 to do better than my monsta 360.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Push-pull on a thicker rad renders those wattage numbers obsolete imho. I can't even take those numbers seriously no matter what their source is. My 360 monsta blows away my 480 XT45 in cooling performance, both in push pull using the same fans, starting at even 800rpms whether they are mounted in my case or on a bench. It's not even close between them. I've sat here and played with them on the bench running with just one rad and then the other. At 1000 rpms the loop temps are always more than 1C lower with the 360 and by 1200rpms it's several degrees difference. I have to almost stop the fans from spinning at all for the 480 to do better than my monsta 360.


You are probably correct .. But without a detailed testing being done it's just talk. 1c could easily be the result of how air is circulating or a change in room temp. The intake air temp needs to be monitored all the time or there is no accurate base line temp. You do good work, and like I said, you are probably right.

Cooling testing is so out in left field it's ridiculous. Do you know of any testers who use the cooler intake air temperature? I only know of three, and I'm one of them.







We need to push testers to use cooler / radiator intake air temperature!
*NO MORE ROOM AMBIENT!! NO MORE ROOM AMBIENT!! NO MORE ROOM AMBIENT!! NO MORE ROOM AMBIENT!! NO MORE ROOM AMBIENT!! NO MORE ROOM AMBIENT!! NO MORE ROOM AMBIENT!! NO MORE ROOM AMBIENT!! NO MORE ROOM AMBIENT!! NO MORE ROOM AMBIENT!! NO MORE ROOM AMBIENT!! NO MORE ROOM AMBIENT!! NO MORE ROOM AMBIENT!! NO MORE ROOM AMBIENT!! NO MORE ROOM AMBIENT!! NO MORE ROOM AMBIENT!! NO MORE ROOM AMBIENT!! NO MORE ROOM AMBIENT!!*

I feel much better now.


----------



## bond32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Push-pull on a thicker rad renders those wattage numbers obsolete imho. I can't even take those numbers seriously no matter what their source is. My 360 monsta blows away my 480 XT45 in cooling performance, both in push pull using the same fans, starting at even 800rpms whether they are mounted in my case or on a bench. It's not even close between them. I've sat here and played with them on the bench running with just one rad and then the other. At 1000 rpms the loop temps are always more than 1C lower with the 360 and by 1200rpms it's several degrees difference. I have to almost stop the fans from spinning at all for the 480 to do better than my monsta 360.


Please don't say this. I have been torn with getting a monsta since I started water cooling. Now I am going to have to...


----------



## Screetch82

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Screetch82*
> 
> Which pump should i get? I guess I don't need to speed control it and just hock it up to the psu. However a temp or/flow sensor in the pump would be nice. This could then trigger the speed for the fans of all rads. So the fans that come with he case are pwm? Should I just get all pwm for the rads too and use a pwm splitter for each rad and connect them to the case fan controller or to the mobo? Or do they draw too much power and I better buy a fan controller? I like to have the fans run around 700 to stay quite but if the loop water temp goes up to 35. Or 45 I would wanna get the fans running quicker
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


anybody?

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## bond32

Just ordered a 360mm monsta. Whenever I get it,going to attempt to put it in the front of my Pro...


----------



## GOLDDUBBY

Cool! Give pics of that when you get going


----------



## doyll

I trust Martin's testing and reviews. His results clearly show a substantial decline in efficiency the thicker the radiator gets.
No rocket science involved in understand why. It's really simple.
As air flows through radiator it heats up as it passes each core .. getting progressively hotter and therefor not able to draw as much heat from each successive layer of cores.
The more airflow the better the cooling, but that added airflow comes with significant increase in noise level.

The more radiator surface area the better. If you cannot increase surface area then added radiator thickness / core layers is second best.


----------



## bond32

Actually got one heck of a deal. Got a 360 and 240 monsta's both almost brand new for $120. Local too, went to ebay and found a guy selling locally.

Have no idea what or how these will fit. I am pretty sure the monsta 360 will go up front once I remove the drive cage stuff, and the current st30 can stay up top.


----------



## RnRollie

With the available space, a MONSTA is possible... and push/pull is ALSO possible, thus p/p *should* be used..








because it allows to turn the fans way down in idle or silent conditions

a 360 MONSTA with SIX fans in p/p at 600-700 RPM will be no louder as a 360 with only 3 fan in push or pull running at much higher RPMs (and noise) while still having the same cooling performance AND a lot of headroom for going full tilt when needed









This does not mean that a MONSTA will cut your loop temps in half (too many other things at play)







Just that a monsta with p/p will give you (much) better performance same noise level as push or pull only.

This is NOT an exclusive for the MONSTA, you can achieve better performance for same noise level with almost any rad you go push/pull; upto 30% more/better performance.

But on a thick rad like the monsta, you basically have to go p/p if only to remain sane or "just because you can" -unless of course you like to go over the top and bolt six 5000 RPM Delta's to it in p/p









Going push/pull on a 30mm thin, low-average FPI rad like the Nexxxos ST30 is basically a waste of time... but if you do it well, and tune everything right you can probably have fans running near stall speed or only 250-300 rpm.


----------



## fateswarm

Is there an obligatory accessory every pro chassis needs additionally? I may pick it up tomorrow from a shop that may have accessories on sale. I will be using it with one gpu and a big air cooler for now .


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> Actually got one heck of a deal. Got a 360 and 240 monsta's both almost brand new for $120. Local too, went to ebay and found a guy selling locally.
> 
> Have no idea what or how these will fit. I am pretty sure the monsta 360 will go up front once I remove the drive cage stuff, and the current st30 can stay up top.


That a great find! Congrats!









Indeed, RnRollie. And Monstas look soooo good with P/P fans on them, it almost doesn't mater that they only cool half again as good as thinner jobbies.







.


----------



## WHIMington

@fateswarm I don't think you need anything else, unless you want some custom sleeve jobs for your PSU to make your built looks modern.

Speaking of rads though, I have a 280 and 120 sitting here unused, IF I am going to get the Luxe for my new build these 2 will goes to the pro with my old build, IF I somehow can make an excuse to my parents about the "importance" for another new HUGE mid tower case that puts all old smaller mid towers in shame


----------



## bond32

I know the front of the Pro will fit a monsta in push pull, no problem. It will even have room to spare even with my tank/res/d5 pump next to the psu....

HOWEVER, I have had a thought, and although it might be ugly, what about putting the 240mm monsta up front in push pull, and the 360 actually mounted on the top of the case (removing the top fan grill of course, but keeping the plastic). Could do push pull with both a 360 and 240 in the enthoo pro, however it may look ugly...

As it stands, I was planning on putting my ST-30 up top in push as it is now, and the 360 monsta up front which requires removing pretty much all the brackets and braces in the 5.25 bay areas. But since the seller contacted me and said the winner of the 240 backed out and he would sell it to me, now I have more options.

Also, by the way, I am cooling 3 290's and a 4770k, all planning on HEAVY overclocks... The 290's alone will be dumping around 270-300 watts each in the loop, 4770k likely around 180 watts.

Only slight problem too, I only have 8xAP-15's.... Was hoping I could still find 2 more without having to sell a kidney, but seems I can't find any. Sidewinder has the swiftech helix pwm fans for $10 each which is is heck of a deal for a still good fan so might just order 4 of those.

Oh and also, depending on how it all fits, I still have the single 120mm ST-30 and 240mm ST-30. Thought I would attempt to mount the ST-30 at the rear where the exhaust is, but it's a rather tight fit getting all the tubing to cooperate.

Beginning to regret selling my Enthoo Primo case now...


----------



## WHIMington

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> I know the front of the Pro will fit a monsta in push pull, no problem. It will even have room to spare even with my tank/res/d5 pump next to the psu....
> 
> HOWEVER, I have had a thought, and although it might be ugly, what about putting the 240mm monsta up front in push pull, and the 360 actually mounted on the top of the case (removing the top fan grill of course, but keeping the plastic). Could do push pull with both a 360 and 240 in the enthoo pro, however it may look ugly...
> 
> As it stands, I was planning on putting my ST-30 up top in push as it is now, and the 360 monsta up front which requires removing pretty much all the brackets and braces in the 5.25 bay areas. But since the seller contacted me and said the winner of the 240 backed out and he would sell it to me, now I have more options.
> 
> Also, by the way, I am cooling 3 290's and a 4770k, all planning on HEAVY overclocks... The 290's alone will be dumping around 270-300 watts each in the loop, 4770k likely around 180 watts.
> 
> Only slight problem too, I only have 8xAP-15's.... Was hoping I could still find 2 more without having to sell a kidney, but seems I can't find any. Sidewinder has the swiftech helix pwm fans for $10 each which is is heck of a deal for a still good fan so might just order 4 of those.
> 
> Oh and also, depending on how it all fits, I still have the single 120mm ST-30 and 240mm ST-30. Thought I would attempt to mount the ST-30 at the rear where the exhaust is, but it's a rather tight fit getting all the tubing to cooperate.
> 
> Beginning to regret selling my Enthoo Primo case now...


How thick is your 360? Because I find out that I could "just" about putting a 45mm 360 on top and a 45 mm 140 at the back, it is a very tight fit with some parts rubbing against each other( or I could put the 140 against the back wall and the fan in front)


----------



## bond32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WHIMington*
> 
> How thick is your 360? Because I find out that I could "just" about putting a 45mm 360 on top and a 45 MM 140 at the back, it is a very tight fit with some parts rubbing against each other( or I could put the 140 against the back wall and the fan in front)


I would be putting the monsta up top, however the radiator itself would be on the actual top of the case with one set of fans on the inside. So if it works, and it doesn't look completely terrible, there should be room for the single ST-30 in the back (its a 30mm thick) with one fan on it.

With only having 8 AP-15's, this would mean I would put 4 of them on the front 240 monsta, 3 on the top 360 monsta, and one on the rear st-30. Then I will buy 4 x Swiftech helix fans for the front monsta and move 3 of the ap-15's to the top so both are in push pull, leaving me with one spare ap-15 to try to do push/pull with the single 120 st-30.

Edit: new 360 going up top is 80mm thick (88 actually).


----------



## RnRollie

While there is no substitute for cubic inches.... isn't 360-80 + 240-80 +120 -30 a "little" overkill?
With all the weight & complexity you're adding, its probably gonna be heavier compared to just building a pedestal and putting a MO-RA in it


----------



## WHIMington

In wa
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RnRollie*
> 
> While there is no substitute for cubic inches.... isn't 360-80 + 240-80 +120 -30 a "little" overkill?
> With all the weight & complexity you're adding, its probably gonna be heavier compared to just building a pedestal and putting a MO-RA in it


In watercooling world there is no such things as being "overkill"








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> I would be putting the monsta up top, however the radiator itself would be on the actual top of the case with one set of fans on the inside. So if it works, and it doesn't look completely terrible, there should be room for the single ST-30 in the back (its a 30mm thick) with one fan on it.
> 
> With only having 8 AP-15's, this would mean I would put 4 of them on the front 240 monsta, 3 on the top 360 monsta, and one on the rear st-30. Then I will buy 4 x Swiftech helix fans for the front monsta and move 3 of the ap-15's to the top so both are in push pull, leaving me with one spare ap-15 to try to do push/pull with the single 120 st-30.
> 
> Edit: new 360 going up top is 80mm thick (88 actually).


If you are planning to put it outside then there is nothing stopping you from putting that 120 at the back.


----------



## bond32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RnRollie*
> 
> While there is no substitute for cubic inches.... isn't 360-80 + 240-80 +120 -30 a "little" overkill?
> With all the weight & complexity you're adding, its probably gonna be heavier compared to just building a pedestal and putting a MO-RA in it


Not necessarily... I'm quite curious to see what performance I can get, but considering the heat output of the 290's I think it will do fine. I don't think a single monsta 360 in push pull could keep 3 290's and a 4770k cool. Plus, I already have the single 120 so why not try to stuff it in there somewhere? lol


----------



## RnRollie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> Not necessarily... I'm quite curious to see what performance I can get, but considering the heat output of the 290's I think it will do fine. I don't think a single monsta 360 in push pull could keep 3 290's and a 4770k cool. Plus, I already have the single 120 so why not try to stuff it in there somewhere? lol


ok... so why not add a MO-RA or Phobya NOVA to the loop? Push-Pull of course, which is only an additional 18 fans and a little over 1KW dissipation capacity


----------



## MrGrievous

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RnRollie*
> 
> While there is no substitute for cubic inches.... isn't 360-80 + 240-80 +120 -30 a "little" overkill?
> With all the weight & complexity you're adding, its probably gonna be heavier compared to just building a pedestal and putting a MO-RA in it


Never can have enough rads







not to mention with overkill set ups the fans on the rads can be operated at sub 800 rpm







making for a very quiet rig unless your gpu has a terrible coil whine like mine


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WHIMington*
> 
> In watercooling world there is no such things as being "overkill"


In air cooler too. Our 3 systems here have an i7 980 under a Cryorig R1 Uitimate, an i7 920 under a PH-TC14PE with TY-143 fans, and an Athon II X4 620 under a Cogage Arrow. The i7's never go above 50-55c and 620 never gove above 50c
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> Not necessarily... I'm quite curious to see what performance I can get, but considering the heat output of the 290's I think it will do fine. I don't think a single monsta 360 in push pull could keep 3 290's and a 4770k cool. Plus, I already have the single 120 so why not try to stuff it in there somewhere? lol


More is better.


----------



## bond32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RnRollie*
> 
> ok... so why not add a MO-RA or Phobya NOVA to the loop? Push-Pull of course, which is only an additional 18 fans and a little over 1KW dissipation capacity


oh my... I need that... Dangit there goes another $1k


----------



## MrGrievous

Lol
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> oh my... I need that... Dangit there goes another $1k


Someone has the bug bad


----------



## bond32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrGrievous*
> 
> Lol
> Someone has the bug bad


Don't judge me... It's what happens when a college student gets a good paying job.


----------



## WHIMington

Hum, I wonder what kind of good paying job is at these kind of economy though.


----------



## RnRollie

and what is better as one MO-RA? Well TWO MO-RA's of course







No matter how much overclock you throw at it, the loop temps never rise over ambient temp


----------



## bond32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WHIMington*
> 
> Hum, I wonder what kind of good paying job is at these kind of economy though.


Engineering (mechanical)


----------



## Klumzyee

Just got a Phantek Enthoo Primo, first off this thread is crazy and very inspiring. Before pulling the trigger on the rads I was kinda hoping you guys can just confirm my measurements.

Top:
Alphacool NexXxos UT60 480mm

Bottom:
Alphacool NexXxos Monsta 360mm

Front:
Alphacool NexXxos XT45 280mm

________________

I see a lot of guys running 360 up top instead of 480, is there a reason for that? On paper the 480 would fit, correct?

Would I still be able to clear higher profile ram? Looking at Corsair Vengeance Pro. Wasn't planning to run push pull just pull but if it fits i wouldnt mind doing push pull for cosmetics


----------



## bond32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Klumzyee*
> 
> Just got a Phantek Enthoo Primo, first off this thread is crazy and very inspiring. Before pulling the trigger on the rads I was kinda hoping you guys can just confirm my measurements.
> 
> Top:
> Alphacool NexXxos UT60 480mm
> 
> Bottom:
> Alphacool NexXxos Monsta 360mm
> 
> Front:
> Alphacool NexXxos XT45 280mm
> 
> ________________
> 
> I see a lot of guys running 360 up top instead of 480, is there a reason for that? On paper the 480 would fit, correct?
> 
> Would I still be able to clear higher profile ram? Looking at Corsair Vengeance Pro. Wasn't planning to run push pull just pull but if it fits i wouldnt mind doing push pull for cosmetics


Should be fine, but you may run into problems with that 280 up front + the monsta. Honestly the top and bottom rad will cool anything you could possibly put in that case, that additional 280 is going to be tough to plumb up. But, maybe someone will chime in on it. Not saying it can't be done, just that it will be tough to fit.


----------



## Klumzyee

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> Should be fine, but you may run into problems with that 280 up front + the monsta. Honestly the top and bottom rad will cool anything you could possibly put in that case, that additional 280 is going to be tough to plumb up. But, maybe someone will chime in on it. Not saying it can't be done, just that it will be tough to fit.


Was going to just drill holes into the drive bays.

that is going to be a pain in the ass to drain though huh lol..


----------



## bond32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Klumzyee*
> 
> Was going to just drill holes into the drive bays.
> 
> that is going to be a pain in the ass to drain though huh lol..


Yeah, I mean you can do it. If you needed to drain it I would just take it out. But believe me when I say the Enthoo Primo is big. Moving it around, turning, all that is much harder than you might think.

I would just do without that front 280, but that's me.


----------



## Klumzyee

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> Yeah, I mean you can do it. If you needed to drain it I would just take it out. But believe me when I say the Enthoo Primo is big. Moving it around, turning, all that is much harder than you might think.
> 
> I would just do without that front 280, but that's me.


Would I be able to do a monster 480 at the bottom with the inlet and outlet towards the front of the case and keep the upper drive bays in?

yes im greedy lol


----------



## bond32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Klumzyee*
> 
> Would I be able to do a monster 480 at the bottom with the inlet and outlet towards the front of the case and keep the upper drive bays in?
> 
> yes im greedy lol


No I think that works, in fact that may be the only orientation you can use it. Don't exactly remember, plus I had a 30mm rad not an 80. But someone else will chime in


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Klumzyee*
> 
> Would I be able to do a monster 480 at the bottom with the inlet and outlet towards the front of the case and keep the upper drive bays in?
> 
> yes im greedy lol


http://themodzoo.com/forum/index.php?/page/articles.html/_/reviews/cases/phanteks-enthoo-primo-full-tower-review-r67?pg=7

160 mm clearance with the top hd cage in place.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

A 480 monsta fits in the bottom in push pull in either direction (ports to the front or rear) with the upper HDD cage in place. There is 160mm of space under the top HDD cage. An Alphacool monsta is 85mm thick + 2x25mm fans = 135mm. You won't be able to also mount that 280 rad in the front though with a 480 in the bottom.

A 45mm thick 480 rad up top with fans in push pull will come right even with the top of the mobo, so a 60mm thick rad in push pull will need to overhang the top of the mobo by about 15mm. There is ~53mm of offset so as long as you don't have anything (ram, heatsinks, CPU connector, etc) taller than 53mm along the top 15mm of the mobo then a 60mm thick rad will fit. I believe G Skill Ripjaws are 41mm tall, Corsair Vengeance Pro are 44.5mm, and Corsair Vengeance are 53mm tall.


----------



## Klumzyee

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> A 480 monsta fits in the bottom in push pull in either direction (ports to the front or rear) with the upper HDD cage in place. There is 160mm of space under the top HDD cage. An Alphacool monsta is 85mm thick + 2x25mm fans = 135mm. You won't be able to also mount that 280 rad in the front though with a 480 in the bottom.
> 
> A 45mm thick 480 rad up top with fans in push pull will come right even with the top of the mobo, so a 60mm thick rad in push pull will need to overhang the top of the mobo by about 15mm. There is ~53mm of offset so as long as you don't have anything (ram, heatsinks, CPU connector, etc) taller than 53mm along the top 15mm of the mobo then a 60mm thick rad will fit. I believe G Skill Ripjaws are 41mm tall, Corsair Vengeance Pro are 44.5mm, and Corsair Vengeance are 53mm tall.










Thank you!! indeed they are 44mm tall..


----------



## Screetch82

Hi. I pickend The following for a new Build for a 4790k And either my 780ti or a new 290x. 16/10mm Schläuche
http://geizhals.de/xspc-schlauch-blau-a875403.html
7.50 euros

Pump
Aquastream xt ultra ( includes water Temp. And Flow Sensor)
http://geizhals.de/aqua-computer-aquastream-xt-usb-12v-ultra-41061-a379874.html
76 euros

Rad 1
http://geizhals.de/alphacool-nexxxos-xt45-420mm-14170-a768767.html
80 euros

Rad 2
http://geizhals.de/alphacool-nexxxos-monsta-480-14183-a768749.html
120 euros

Cpu cooler
http://geizhals.de/alphacool-nexxxos-xp3-light-plexi-edition-12163-a955792.html

http://geizhals.de/alphacool-nexxxos-xp3-light-acetal-edition-12153-10418-a883345.html
49 euros

Mobo
http://geizhals.de/asrock-z97-extreme6-90-mxgte0-a0uayz-a1106887.html
145 euros

Res Tank
http://geizhals.de/alphacool-hf-38-cape-cyclone-150-15301-a422589.html
30 euros

http://geizhals.de/aqua-computer-aqualis-eco-34037-a808775.html
35 euros

http://geizhals.de/magicool-plexiac-150-ausgleichsbehaelter-mc-agb150-a340153.html
25 euros

http://geizhals.de/frozenq-liquid-fusion-160mm-rot-lf-160-rd-a616489.html
70 euros

Fitting

10x G1/4 to 10/16
http://geizhals.de/ek-water-blocks-ek-csq-fitting-10-16mm-g1-4-schwarz-a1048286.html
4,90 Euro per Fitting

Case

http://geizhals.de/phanteks-enthoo-primo-weiss-mit-sichtfenster-ph-es813p-wt-a1062639.html
225 Euro

Any recommendations or part cHanges?

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## bond32

There is a LOT of room in the front of the pro... Preparing for the monsta:


----------



## bond32

Preliminary pump placement and loop cleaning:


----------



## MrGrievous

Here is my current setup patiently waiting for either the white Pro or white Luxe to drop







On a side note how do I post a larger image that the default 500x1000?


----------



## WHIMington

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> Engineering (mechanical)


Not in my case though (Aircraft mechanic)


----------



## Accursed Entity

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrGrievous*
> 
> Here is my current setup patiently waiting for either the white Pro or white Luxe to drop
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On a side note how do I post a larger image that the default 500x1000?


How much time have you been using it without a case? Or that was just a test?


----------



## MrGrievous

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Accursed Entity*
> 
> How much time have you been using it without a case? Or that was just a test?


Almost a month now, I asked how long was too long to have it run like this and some others here, think it was doyll, ran there system on the mobo box for even a year lol


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrGrievous*
> 
> Almost a month now, I asked how long was too long to have it run like this and some others here, think it was doyll, ran there system on the mobo box for even a year lol


I getting the EVOLV for my next build but thankfully I have a running completed build and am in no rush but I hope I don't have to wait like you guys are for you're cases to launch , waiting a year is nuts!


----------



## fateswarm

It's here!



I don't know what to do with its cable management. Put the cover on the PSU or try to keep them in sight?

Plus the EVGA ..vga cable is so ugly.


----------



## GOLDDUBBY

It's weird that we call it water cooling opposite to aircooling, essentially both methods is aircooling, water just being a way to make the most of it, since it transfers the heat to get aircooled where we chose.
So both methods essentially are air cooling. Unlike dry-ice or liquid nitrogen.

(Totally off topic, all the talk about aircooling versus water cooling just got me thinking)


----------



## fateswarm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GOLDDUBBY*
> 
> It's weird that we call it water cooling opposite to aircooling, essentially both methods is aircooling, water just being a way to make the most of it, since it transfers the heat to get aircooled where we chose.
> So both methods essentially are air cooling. Unlike dry-ice or liquid nitrogen.
> 
> (Totally off topic, all the talk about aircooling versus water cooling just got me thinking)


Actually air coolers often use condensation of air to liquid. The 'pillar' pipes on the NH-D15 above are technically called condensers.


----------



## Screetch82

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Screetch82*
> 
> Hi. I pickend The following for a new Build for a 4790k And either my 780ti or a new 290x. 16/10mm Schläuche
> http://geizhals.de/xspc-schlauch-blau-a875403.html
> 7.50 euros
> 
> Pump
> Aquastream xt ultra ( includes water Temp. And Flow Sensor)
> http://geizhals.de/aqua-computer-aquastream-xt-usb-12v-ultra-41061-a379874.html
> 76 euros
> 
> Rad 1
> http://geizhals.de/alphacool-nexxxos-xt45-420mm-14170-a768767.html
> 80 euros
> 
> Rad 2
> http://geizhals.de/alphacool-nexxxos-monsta-480-14183-a768749.html
> 120 euros
> 
> Cpu cooler
> http://geizhals.de/alphacool-nexxxos-xp3-light-plexi-edition-12163-a955792.html
> 
> http://geizhals.de/alphacool-nexxxos-xp3-light-acetal-edition-12153-10418-a883345.html
> 49 euros
> 
> Mobo
> http://geizhals.de/asrock-z97-extreme6-90-mxgte0-a0uayz-a1106887.html
> 145 euros
> 
> Res Tank
> http://geizhals.de/alphacool-hf-38-cape-cyclone-150-15301-a422589.html
> 30 euros
> 
> http://geizhals.de/aqua-computer-aqualis-eco-34037-a808775.html
> 35 euros
> 
> http://geizhals.de/magicool-plexiac-150-ausgleichsbehaelter-mc-agb150-a340153.html
> 25 euros
> 
> http://geizhals.de/frozenq-liquid-fusion-160mm-rot-lf-160-rd-a616489.html
> 70 euros
> 
> Fitting
> 
> 10x G1/4 to 10/16
> http://geizhals.de/ek-water-blocks-ek-csq-fitting-10-16mm-g1-4-schwarz-a1048286.html
> 4,90 Euro per Fitting
> 
> Case
> 
> http://geizhals.de/phanteks-enthoo-primo-weiss-mit-sichtfenster-ph-es813p-wt-a1062639.html
> 225 Euro
> 
> Any recommendations or part cHanges?
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


Any Davies?

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## GOLDDUBBY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fateswarm*
> 
> Actually air coolers often use condensation of air to liquid. The 'pillar' pipes on the NH-D15 above are technically called condensers.


Just that it never turns to liquid since there's a heat source, right?


----------



## fateswarm

I don't know the details. I assume there is some limited formation of liquid during operation. Condensation wouldn't be referenced otherwise since it's what it does.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GOLDDUBBY*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *fateswarm*
> 
> Actually air coolers often use condensation of air to liquid. The 'pillar' pipes on the NH-D15 above are technically called condensers.
> 
> 
> 
> Just that it never turns to liquid since there's a heat source, right?
Click to expand...

Heat pipes by design cycle liquid to gas that is moved by the expansion of more liquid vaporizing at heat source and as it moves out the pipes it cools / condenses / contracts back to liquid, collects in the wick on inside of pipe and moves back to center / heat source .. and repeats the same process again.


----------



## fateswarm

I have two noob questions. One, is system temp a reliable/sane metric for running the system fans? Two, is the main reason of the enthoo pro psu cover to hide the cables in front of it?

I used the second system fan somewhere above the nh-d15 for now. I also connected it to cpu_opt for "cpu driven speeds" for testing. I wonder if I should add it as a 3rd fan for the lols.


----------



## Accursed Entity

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrGrievous*
> 
> Almost a month now, I asked how long was too long to have it run like this and some others here, think it was doyll, ran there system on the mobo box for even a year lol


That gives me hope then, I might do that while I wait for the Enthoo Mini, unless the Luxe get here first... mmm... decisions.


----------



## Dorito Bandit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrGrievous*
> 
> Almost a month now, I asked how long was too long to have it run like this and some others here, think it was doyll, ran there system on the mobo box for even a year lol


I also ran my system without a case for about 5 months. Ran everything on top of a big Newegg shipping box while sitting on top of my desk. Totally gangster!







I haven't gotten a GPU as of yet, so I didn't need to worry about anything getting too hot while out of a case. Waiting on NVIDIA Maxwell GPU.


----------



## bond32

Shoved the nzxt sentry 2 up top:


----------



## MrGrievous

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dorito Bandit*
> 
> I also ran my system without a case for about 5 months. Ran everything on top of a big Newegg shipping box while sitting on top of my desk. Totally gangster!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I haven't gotten a GPU as of yet, so I didn't need to worry about anything getting too hot while out of a case. Waiting on NVIDIA Maxwell GPU.


I thought open environment vs closed (inside a case) would improve the cooling ability?


----------



## GOLDDUBBY

Depends on airflow. Some components gets cooled by the airflow from a lets say fan in the top of the case, with no case the fan will just suck air from around it, and there will be no airflow to that said component.


----------



## Dorito Bandit

*Enthoo Pro*

I am wanting to get 1 or 2 more 200mm fans for my Enthoo Pro case for top exhaust. If you own this case and are using a different brand of 200mm fan, which one and would you recommend it? I just want to make sure they'll fit this case before ordering. Besides, I thought all 200mm fans were created equal, but apparently they're not.









Thanks in advance, everyone!


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrGrievous*
> 
> I thought open environment vs closed (inside a case) would improve the cooling ability?


For motherboard, CPU, graphics and audio cards, etc. yes, they cool as well or better in the open .. back of motherboard may be warmer laying flat on box or whatever. I set mine up with some 10mm wood blocks setting under the mounting holes.









Other components like HDD that need case airflow for cooling often run warmer.


----------



## GOLDDUBBY

Air cooling seems so primitive. It's like they pointed at the cpu and went "hot, must cool, lets build huge humongous towerstack of cooling crap right on top of it."

Then a couple years later when intelligence struck someone somewhere came up with the idea "hey guys we don't need that humongous cooling tower covering all acceptability to other components on our motherboard. We can just use an heat exchange plate on it and with a pump quickly transfer the heat to radiators instead" ..people from the 30's didn't like that new stuff. Improvements are the devul!


----------



## fateswarm

What's so primitive with superior reliability and less maintenance needs? If you do not need the extra cooling, air cooling is superior.

e.g. After a delid I do not even go to annoying fan speeds ever at the voltage I want to run it at for safety. More cooling is inferior.


----------



## GOLDDUBBY

> accessibility
> performace


----------



## GOLDDUBBY

If only I still had my hobby-room I would live in a nitrogen cloud.

@fateswarm.. I don't miss the days we were forced to use those bulky old air coolers. THOSE are suboptimal if anything!


----------



## WHIMington

Quote:


> More cooling is inferior.


Wow. Just, WOW! I am in awe!


----------



## Speng

Curious to know if anyone managed to cram an AMS480 into the bottom of the Primo.

MNPCTech video review showed an AC420 just snuggle in there width wise which supposedly is 144mm wide. The AMS series are all 146mm wide.

Probably wont fit









Also, WTH didn't Phanteks bother to include exact widths and heights of rads for their various locations within the case in their water cooling overview schematics?! Brain farts.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Speng*
> 
> Curious to know if anyone managed to cram an AMS480 into the bottom of the Primo.
> 
> MNPCTech video review showed an AC420 just snuggle in there width wise which supposedly is 144mm wide. The AMS series are all 146mm wide.
> 
> Probably wont fit


Unless you remove / cut away the bottom of that panel with the Phanteks logo & 5.25" bay latches on it you are not going to fit a 360 or 480 rad wider than 125mm through there. A 124mm-wide Alphacool 360/480 just barely fits. And even if you remove that panel the max width to still be able to get the side panel on is 145mm. You may recall in the MNPCtech video 



 a 153mm wide HardwareLabs 280 it stuck out even past where the outside of the side panel would be, and the bottom of the panel is 7mm thick. Right after that part of the MNPCtech vid is when they sit a 144mm-wide Alphacool 420 rad in there and it just barely fits width-wise, and to do so they had to stand the 420 up because a 140mm-series rad longer than a 280 will not fit behind that panel.
Quote:


> Also, WTH didn't Phanteks bother to include exact widths and heights of rads for their various locations within the case in their water cooling overview schematics?! Brain farts.


Well, Phanteks did have that info in the manual, but for whatever reason I just noticed the newest version I just downloaded from the Phanteks site has had some of it removed.

Here is page 26 of the manual I downloaded back when the Enthoo Primo was first released:


Here is page 26 of the manual now:


No idea why they took out the max width specs for a 360 and 480 rad.


----------



## GOLDDUBBY

Yea I raised that question like 40 pages ago. Was then met with "why don't you build a case then, if you think it's so simple"

There is allot of dremel action to get this case working for watercooling and higher end graphics cards. That's just how it is.

I never said it was simple but what are there like 5 models of rads.. how difficult can it be to add that extra 0,3 cm so all rads can fit.

I mean there must have been a meeting discussing this at some point. It's almost as if the just measured it for fans without any rad size in consideration. But why would they, since watercooling is so "suboptimal" anyways. lol


----------



## RnRollie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Unless you remove / cut away the bottom of that panel with the Phanteks logo & 5.25" bay latches on it you are not going to fit a 360 or 480 rad wider than 125mm through there. A 124mm-wide Alphacool 360/480 just barely fits. And even if you remove that panel the max width to still be able to get the side panel on is 145mm. You may recall in the MNPCtech video
> 
> 
> 
> a 153mm wide HardwareLabs 280 it stuck out even past where the outside of the side panel would be, and the bottom of the panel is 7mm thick. Right after that part of the MNPCtech vid is when they sit a 144mm-wide Alphacool 420 rad in there and it just barely fits width-wise, and to do so they had to stand the 420 up because a 140mm-series rad longer than a 280 will not fit behind that panel.
> Well, Phanteks did have that info in the manual, but for whatever reason I just noticed the newest version I just downloaded from the Phanteks site has had some of it removed.
> 
> Here is page 26 of the manual I downloaded back when the Enthoo Primo was first released:
> 
> 
> Here is page 26 of the manual now:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> No idea why they took out the max width specs for a 360 and 480 rad.


Maybe they fiddled a bit with the dimensions?

Apparently there was a revision, but if it went beyond repositioning the power button, i dont know









Aren't all white Primo's revision 2 ?


----------



## Tweetbix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RnRollie*
> 
> Maybe they fiddled a bit with the dimensions?
> 
> Apparently there was a revision, but if it went beyond repositioning the power button, i dont know
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Aren't all white Primo's revision 2 ?


Hope so, I'm looking forward to get one in the next month or 2.


----------



## RnRollie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Another day .. off an running.
> Later we'll have
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> with popcorn
> I hadn't noticed a change in power button. Do you have any pics of it?


Working pure from memory of something i read..

Didn't they move the power button from the top to the front? Or move some of those ports & reset swich around a bit?

Could be i'm thinking about a completely different case though


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RnRollie*
> 
> Working pure from memory of something i read..
> 
> Didn't they move the power button from the top to the front? Or move some of those ports & reset swich around a bit?
> 
> Could be i'm thinking about a completely different case though


I had no luck when trying to find out what the changes in Rev.2 are.


----------



## RnRollie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> I had no luck when trying to find out what the changes in Rev.2 are.


As said, pure from memory... but since i'm past my prime, there might be some lapses









Could have been (badly translated) differences between Pre-Production & "final" product also. I'll recall eventually... i'm a bit focused on a TEC-cooled/heated baby right now, so the database search is running on a low priority thread in the back of my head


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RnRollie*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> I had no luck when trying to find out what the changes in Rev.2 are.
> 
> 
> 
> As said, pure from memory... but since i'm past my prime, there might be some lapses
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Could have been (badly translated) differences between Pre-Production & "final" product also. I'll recall eventually... i'm a bit focused on a TEC-cooled/heated baby right now, so the database search is running on a low priority thread in the back of my head
Click to expand...

I need stronger tread. Mine keeps breaking and loosing what was attached. Kinda like cheap fishing line.


----------



## RnRollie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> I need stronger tread. Mine keeps breaking and loosing what was attached. Kinda like cheap fishing line.


Just needs a "reboot"
Here's how:

-stop shaving
-get a (long) raincoat, preferably in some undeterminable colour
-get a (little) black notebook
-spend most of your days , morning till evening in your local bar/pub
-take a bus to get there
-insist on staying on the bus terminus to terminus, only get off teh bus on the return leg
-remember while on the bus/in the pub to always:
---look/stare at people & random things
---mumble & mutter inaudible yet loud to yourself
---jot down notes in the black notebook
---when spoken to , respond with something completely out of context (remember to swallow half of your words)

After a week or fortnight, your brain will either want to divorce you OR had enough and does a "reboot"

Note: the risk exists that a passanger/driver or pub-dweller reboots your brain for you

Note: if a reboot doesn't occur within 3 months, this state risks becoming permanent; seek professional help to avoid this.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RnRollie*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> I need stronger tread. Mine keeps breaking and loosing what was attached. Kinda like cheap fishing line.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just needs a "reboot"
> Here's how:
> 
> -stop shaving
> -get a (long) raincoat, preferably in some undeterminable colour
> -get a (little) black notebook
> -spend most of your days , morning till evening in your local bar/pub
> -take a bus to get there
> -insist on staying on the bus terminus to terminus, only get off teh bus on the return leg
> -remember while on the bus/in the pub to always:
> ---look/stare at people & random things
> ---mumble & mutter inaudible yet loud to yourself
> ---jot down notes in the black notebook
> ---when spoken to , respond with something completely out of context (remember to swallow half of your words)
> 
> After a week or fortnight, your brain will either want to divorce you OR had enough and does a "reboot"
> 
> Note: the risk exists that a passanger/driver or pub-dweller reboots your brain for you
> 
> Note: if a reboot doesn't occur within 3 months, this state risks becoming permanent; seek professional help to avoid this.
Click to expand...

-stop shaving . . Stopped shaving 35 years ago
-get a (long) raincoat, preferably in some undeterminable colour . . Only when it rains .. here that is often.
-get a (little) black notebook . . Got that too
-spend most of your days , morning till evening in your local bar/pub . . Could never handle that .. is hanging out in a camper van on deserted beachs ok instead?
-take a bus to get there . Have bus pass. Us old-timers get them free.
-insist on staying on the bus terminus to terminus, only get off teh bus on the return leg . . Can I just ride a loop from home and back?
-remember while on the bus/in the pub to always:
---look/stare at people & random things . . Got that down pat. Happens when I forget what I'm doing
---mumble & mutter inaudible yet loud to yourself . . wife does that .. and SWMBO is law here
---jot down notes in the black notebook . . Notebook is full of notes .. no idea what they mean though
---when spoken to , respond with something completely out of context (remember to swallow half of your words) . . another one wife has down pat

Do I win a surprise for most off topic answers?


----------



## ciarlatano

So, when I put my Primo together last year, it was a completely rushed process. Shipping issues and deadlines didn't give me the opportunity to have the case before I ordered components for the loop, I had to do it totally blind. The results weren't awful....but certainly weren't stellar. There were two issues I absolutely hated - the route from the pump to the first rad, and the route from the res back to the pump. I also wasn't overjoyed with the way the UV was working....I wanted a subtle effect that I just wasn't getting.



Since it was time for maintenance, I decided to clean up a bit. First, a drain coming off the lowest port of the lowest rad is always nice to have:


A couple of 90 degrees and the return from the res rides right long the shelf below the MB and disappears:


Overall, a much cleaner look using a few angles:


And some moves of the lighting to get the UV effect more subtle:



The Primo is incredible to work in, probably more possibilities than any other case out there.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> So, when I put my Primo together last year, it was a completely rushed process.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Shipping issues and deadlines didn't give me the opportunity to have the case before I ordered components for the loop, I had to do it totally blind. The results weren't awful....but certainly weren't stellar. There were two issues I absolutely hated - the route from the pump to the first rad, and the route from the res back to the pump. I also wasn't overjoyed with the way the UV was working....I wanted a subtle effect that I just wasn't getting.
> 
> 
> 
> Since it was time for maintenance, I decided to clean up a bit. First, a drain coming off the lowest port of the lowest rad is always nice to have:
> 
> 
> A couple of 90 degrees and the return from the res rides right long the shelf below the MB and disappears:
> 
> 
> Overall, a much cleaner look using a few angles:
> 
> 
> And some moves of the lighting to get the UV effect more subtle:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The Primo is incredible to work in, probably more possibilities than any other case out there.


All you need now is one of these?


----------



## zoneuk

My new primo next to my old haf-x


----------



## bond32

*Enthoo Pro*

Just thought I would chime in here, I think if one actually wanted to fit a monsta 420 up front AND a 360 (maybe 420 thin rad) up top, it might could be done. Still waiting on my monsta's which I will have tuesday. There is a lot of room in the pro case...


----------



## Dorito Bandit

*Enthoo Pro*
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> *Enthoo Pro*
> 
> Just thought I would chime in here, I think if one actually wanted to fit a monsta 420 up front AND a 360 (maybe 420 thin rad) up top, it might could be done. Still waiting on my monsta's which I will have tuesday. There is a lot of room in the pro case...


bond32,

why not mount that drive on the bottom of your case? Looks like you'd have plenty of room, even if you had to drill a few small holes. Also, I notice you're not using your PSU shroud. Would it not fit over your cables? I am currently not using my shroud either. I may see how it looks at a later date.

I also agree, there is a lot of room in the Enthoo Pro case.


----------



## bond32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dorito Bandit*
> 
> *Enthoo Pro*
> bond32,
> 
> why not mount that drive on the bottom of your case? Looks like you'd have plenty of room, even if you had to drill a few small holes. Also, I notice you're not using your PSU shroud. Would it not fit over your cables? I am currently not using my shroud either. I may see how it looks at a later date.
> 
> I also agree, there is a lot of room in the Enthoo Pro case.


I could, and I might. But I wanted to wait till I see how the monsta 360 fits. I have my doubts that would work once it's in place.


----------



## Accursed Entity

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> *Enthoo Pro*-snip-


How are the temps on those GPU? More specifically the top one.


----------



## bond32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Accursed Entity*
> 
> How are the temps on those GPU? More specifically the top one.


Top GPU in that picture is watercooled. I am ordering the other two blocks this week. The middle gpu will fry though, have to run the fans around 60-70% to prevent throttling at stock.


----------



## Ramzinho

i dont own any. but i've to tip my hat like 10 times for Phanteks for the entho pro pricing and quality. if this ever gets sold in my country. i'm buying one even though i don't need it.. but i just can't let such beauty go.


----------



## Accursed Entity

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> Top GPU in that picture is watercooled. I am ordering the other two blocks this week. The middle gpu will fry though, have to run the fans around 60-70% to prevent throttling at stock.


Sorry, the middle one yeah, thanks for answering. REP+ I was asking because I'm in love with the Enthoo Evolv but I want to SLI without watercooling... I think I have to go with ATX then.


----------



## Strider49

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> All you need now is one of these?


Hi doyll,

I've been thinking about building a cart like that for my Primo. The problem is that I'm not much skilled in doing these kind of things. Can you tell me how to build one of those and the material(s) I have to buy?

My case is on the desk, so the wheels have to have some sort of lock. By the way, why didn't you put something at the corners just in case the Primo slips off of the cart? And does it really help with the airflow in the bottom of the case and temps?

Cheers


----------



## Dorito Bandit

*Enthoo Pro*

Official Website For Enthoo Pro

Here are a few written reviews and videos on the Enthoo Pro. Yes, some may have already been posted in this thread, but I decided to put them all together in one post for easy access. Hopefully this will help those who are unfamiliar with this awesome case.

Hope you enjoy, and you're welcome!









*Written Reviews*

Benchmark Reviews Review

Bit-Tech Review

Gamezoom Review

KitGuru Review

Lowyat.NET Review

Modders-Inc Review

Neoseeker Review

Overclockers Club Review

Pureoverclock Review

ThinkComputers Review

SweClockers.com Review

Tweak.dk Review

*Video Reviews*


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Strider49*
> 
> Hi doyll,
> 
> I've been thinking about building a cart like that for my Primo. The problem is that I'm not much skilled in doing these kind of things. Can you tell me how to build one of those and the material(s) I have to buy?
> 
> My case is on the desk, so the wheels have to have some sort of lock. By the way, why didn't you put something at the corners just in case the Primo slips off of the cart? And does it really help with the airflow in the bottom of the case and temps?
> 
> Cheers


I use 10mm 7ply voidless birch plywood cut into 30mm strips. Corners are glued lap-joint. Casters are 30mm twin wheel with 10mm threaded stem. Holes are drilled and tapped on centerline 30mm from ends and in middle of side strips. Front left corner snd edges are rounded to match Enthoo Primo base. Then it is primed, filled sanded and painted black to match case.

As for "really help" all I can say is stock the base has 91sq cm of vent flow area .. and that does not deduct for the grill mesh which is only 40-50% open area. One 120mm fan has about 100sq cm of flow area. Adding case 33-35mm on 30mm castors adds 400sq cm of flow area.

The castors I use are available with or without brake lock. The brake lock uses a gear on caster that is locked by teeth engaging that gear .. meaning it cannot slip or roll. The rubber feet on case keep it from moving on base .. and adding corner blocks would detract from clean lines of Primo base .. and castor base that matches it.

On your desk you could test and see if added clearance helps. 4 blocks about 4x4x3cm .. one on each corner .. is all that's needed. Middle caster is more looks than anything.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dorito Bandit*
> 
> *Enthoo Pro*
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Official Website For Enthoo Pro
> 
> Here are a few written reviews and videos on the Enthoo Pro. Yes, some may have already been posted in this thread, but I decided to put them all together in one post for easy access. Hopefully this will help those who are unfamiliar with this awesome case.
> 
> Hope you enjoy, and you're welcome!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Written Reviews*
> 
> Benchmark Reviews Review
> 
> Bit-Tech Review
> 
> Gamezoom Review
> 
> KitGuru Review
> 
> Lowyat.NET Review
> 
> Modders-Inc Review
> 
> Neoseeker Review
> 
> Overclockers Club Review
> 
> Pureoverclock Review
> 
> ThinkComputers Review
> 
> SweClockers.com Review
> 
> Tweak.dk Review
> 
> *Video Reviews*


Nice!
Great bit of work!








Added link to this in OP.


----------



## Strider49

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> I use 10mm 7ply voidless birch plywood cut into 30mm strips. Corners are glued lap-joint. Casters are 30mm twin wheel with 10mm threaded stem. Holes are drilled and tapped on centerline 30mm from ends and in middle of side strips. Front left corner snd edges are rounded to match Enthoo Primo base. Then it is primed, filled sanded and painted black to match case.
> 
> As for "really help" all I can say is stock the base has 91sq cm of vent flow area .. and that does not deduct for the grill mesh which is only 40-50% open area. One 120mm fan has about 100sq cm of flow area. Adding case 33-35mm on 30mm castors adds 400sq cm of flow area.
> 
> The castors I use are available with or without brake lock. The brake lock uses a gear on caster that is locked by teeth engaging that gear .. meaning it cannot slip or roll. The rubber feet on case keep it from moving on base .. and adding corner blocks would detract from clean lines of Primo base .. and castor base that matches it.
> 
> On your desk you could test and see if added clearance helps. 4 blocks about 4x4x3cm .. one on each corner .. is all that's needed. Middle caster is more looks than anything.


Thank you very much!







It looks a bit difficult for me to try it alone and I don't have the needed materials, so I'll have to ask a friend if he can help me with this.

Which glue did you use to join the strips? The middle caster should help to support the weight of the case in the middle, right? If it wasn't there, the wood could flex, I don't know.

Btw, how much did you spend on this?


----------



## Ice009

Is there any Phanteks reps in this thread? or does anyone have an email address where I can contact them?

I tried sending 3-5 messages in the last month (through their global website form and also the email address they had listed on their website) and haven't received a single reply to any of them.

If I bought any of their gear, how in the heck would I be able to get warranty if I ever had a warranty issue? They just won't reply to any of my messages/emails.


----------



## Dorito Bandit

Ice009,

That's certainly not a good way to do business. Have you tried their USA site? http://www.phanteksusa.com I had a minor issue with my case after ordering it, and they responded back within a few hours. There's also an online chat you can use if you wish. Also, here's the email address of a rep that has posted in this thread. [email protected] Give them all a shot.

Good luck!


----------



## Voodoo411

At last I got the Enthoo Pro from ncix. Very nice case. I went custom water cooling for the first time ever, and it was so easy with this case. Here are some pics, more in my gallery. And fyi I sleeved cables myself.


----------



## Ice009

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dorito Bandit*
> 
> Ice009,
> 
> That's certainly not a good way to do business. Have you tried their USA site? http://www.phanteksusa.com I had a minor issue with my case after ordering it, and they responded back within a few hours. There's also an online chat you can use if you wish. Also, here's the email address of a rep that has posted in this thread. [email protected] Give them all a shot.
> 
> Good luck!


Thanks. I will try contacting them one more time, but if I don't get a reply this time, I'm going to have to give up on them. I can't believe I haven't gotten a single reply to any of the emails or even the messages I've sent through the global contact form on their website. I've sent around 4-5 within the span of a month and they haven't replied to any of them.


----------



## Dorito Bandit

Nice going, Voodoo411. That's mighty fine rig you have there.


----------



## Accursed Entity

Linus has a video review for the Enthoo Pro now.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Strider49*
> 
> Thank you very much!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It looks a bit difficult for me to try it alone and I don't have the needed materials, so I'll have to ask a friend if he can help me with this.
> 
> Which glue did you use to join the strips? The middle caster should help to support the weight of the case in the middle, right? If it wasn't there, the wood could flex, I don't know.
> 
> Btw, how much did you spend on this?


I use Mitre Bond or Mitre Mate glue and activator (about $20 a kit) for lap-joint corners.


Castors are about $2.50 each.
 

10mm (3/8")Solid Baltic birch plywood is $10 for a 20"x30" piece


Lacquer spot putty to fill little imperfections (about $15)
Several grits of sandpaper.
Primer like used when painting a car and black acrylic lacquer for finish.


Not really a cheap project .. and a custom woodworking shop is almost a necessity. I'm a retired custom woodworker with lots of tools and experience.
You could cut the base out of one piece and cut the center out of it. There are different castor and mount choices. I use the threaded pin because it is the most compact and cleanest looking.

Like I said, some nice blocks of wood or maybe ice hockey pucks (1" thick x 3"dia.) would do the job for you.


----------



## ccros44

I really really love this case but i need to know something. Can the asus p9x79-e motherboard (CEB form factor) fit inside the case? I know the case is big enough and I know its not listed as a supported form factor, I just need to know if the grounding points would line up or not.

Thanks in advance
Ccros44


----------



## Screetch82

what do you guys think about this as a rad fan: http://www.caseking.de/shop/catalog/Luefter/120mm-Luefter/Akasa-Apache-PWM-Luefter-schwarz-120mm::13872.html

max. 2,64 mm-H2O
at 1.300 U/min


----------



## Goon31

Hi, is there any way to fit a tube reservoir in this case with a r9 290 graphics card? Either with the graphics card watercooled or without.


----------



## bond32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Screetch82*
> 
> what do you guys think about this as a rad fan: http://www.caseking.de/shop/catalog/Luefter/120mm-Luefter/Akasa-Apache-PWM-Luefter-schwarz-120mm::13872.html
> 
> max. 2,64 mm-H2O
> at 1.300 U/min


I believe that is the equivalent to the Rosewill Hyperbola which is another one of the good performing, under-rated fans out there. It is inexpensive and performs decently. Believe the Rosewill is a pwm fan as well, usually runs $9.99 for the 120mm variant.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Goon31*
> 
> Hi, is there any way to fit a tube reservoir in this case with a r9 290 graphics card? Either with the graphics card watercooled or without.


If you're mounting the res where the pci/pci-e slot screws are then yes it should fit. Depends on the size reservoir though. Plenty of other options in this case, would probably fit to the right of the video cards as well with the included bracket.


----------



## Alvarez

Voodoo, are you using NXZT lighting ?


----------



## Goon31

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> If you're mounting the res where the pci/pci-e slot screws are then yes it should fit. Depends on the size reservoir though. Plenty of other options in this case, would probably fit to the right of the video cards as well with the included bracket.


Ideally a xspc photon. This would be for the enthoo pro by the way.


----------



## Screetch82

just realized the included fans are PH-F140SP and therefore non pwm. How do you control those ? as i just wanted to buy 4 more 140mm fans from phanteks and use 2 out of the 5 case fans for the top rad. I assumed the were pwm controlled..

this is weird now as I will have 120mm pwm fans for the bottom rad and DC controlled fans for the top??

how did you guys do that?


----------



## RnRollie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Screetch82*
> 
> just realized the included fans are PH-F140SP and therefore non pwm. How do you control those ? as i just wanted to buy 4 more 140mm fans from phanteks and use 2 out of the 5 case fans for the top rad. I assumed the were pwm controlled..
> 
> this is weird now as I will have 120mm pwm fans for the bottom rad and DC controlled fans for the top??
> 
> how did you guys do that?


By using the build-in fan hub


----------



## Screetch82

Can you explain abit more? So I can controll the non pwm 3pin fans that come with the case with the pwm hub? How does that work?

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## doyll

Can't remember what page, but it's explained in the manual


----------



## Voodoo411

Yes it is NZXT LED strip


----------



## Voodoo411

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Screetch82*
> 
> Can you explain abit more? So I can controll the non pwm 3pin fans that come with the case with the pwm hub? How does that work?
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


It works. I connect 5 rad fans to the hub, and connect the wire labeled "to motherboard CPU fan header" to motherboard. The SATA connector is an extra in case your fans are too much power for motherboard CPU fan header. Ofcourse you need to go to BIOS or install software to set up your fan speed.


----------



## doyll

Here is what Enthoo Pro manual says. Basically same hub in both.


----------



## schoolofmonkey

So how does the fan hub go if you have something like a H110 connected.
I have the my H110 fans connected to the CPU header to control CPU cooling through the Maximus 7 Hero's fan profiles.

From what I've read in that manual snippet, they prefer you to use the CPU header due to some motherboards aux fan header not have proper PWM, an if you do use the AUX you can't use the SATA to help power the fans.

So I'm a tad confused, the last thing you want is to fry your cpu fan header if the power draw is too much.

I do love the look of the case, and actually have a Enthoo Primo Ultimate in my shopping basket ATM, just confused about the fan hub and how to power all those fans..lol.
Though I do also have a NZXT Sentry 3 Fan Controller.


----------



## Dorito Bandit

*Enthoo Pro*

Seems a lot of people are confused about the PWM hub. I also had questions about the PWM hub, myself. The directions are clear about how to hook it up, I just was uncomfortable about plugging my CPU cooler into it, instead of directly into my mobo like it is now. Anyway, see my thread and *ultimate solution* found here *Help With Hooking Up Case Fans Properly* Remember, you can learn a lot from a dummy!


----------



## fateswarm

I wonder what's the optimal way to hook the main fan for a system with a high end gpu. I have the small fan of the pro blowing near the input of the noctua cooler hooked to the cpu_opt header (voltage controlled, based on cpu temp) which I guess it's fine, but I wonder what to do with the big fan. It appears to be controlled by the system_temperature on my motherboard if hooked on a system header though that thing is only slightly correlated to gpu temps, but I guess it's better than just cpu_temps since those may be very low on some games while gpu might be going like crazy.


----------



## schoolofmonkey

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dorito Bandit*
> 
> *Enthoo Pro*
> 
> Help With Hooking Up Case Fans Properly[/URL][/B] Remember, you can learn a lot from a dummy!


Love the "to hell with it" response..lol

The instructions aren't very clear, but a lot of the top model motherboards have PWM on all Fan headers.

The SATA power connector is the confusing part, it does supply extra power, but then they say it interferes with the PWM on the fan hub..


----------



## Voodoo411

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *schoolofmonkey*
> 
> So how does the fan hub go if you have something like a H110 connected.
> I have the my H110 fans connected to the CPU header to control CPU cooling through the Maximus 7 Hero's fan profiles.
> 
> From what I've read in that manual snippet, they prefer you to use the CPU header due to some motherboards aux fan header not have proper PWM, an if you do use the AUX you can't use the SATA to help power the fans.
> 
> So I'm a tad confused, the last thing you want is to fry your cpu fan header if the power draw is too much.
> 
> I do love the look of the case, and actually have a Enthoo Primo Ultimate in my shopping basket ATM, just confused about the fan hub and how to power all those fans..lol.
> Though I do also have a NZXT Sentry 3 Fan Controller.


Here is what I have try to connect the fan hub to my system.

Scenario 1: using CPU fan header WITHOUT the SATA connection. All fans run fine and PWM function works. I believe my fans are not power enough to fry my CPU fan header.

Scenario 2: using CPU fan header WITH the SATA connection. All fans run fine and PWM function works. I believe this is the way Phanteks wants you to connect the fan hub so you don't fry your CPU fan header.

Scenario 3: using CHASSIS fan header WITHOUT the SATA connection. All fans run fine and motherboard voltage modulating function works.

Scenario 4: using CHASSIS fan header WITH the SATA connection. All fans run at full speed. Voltage modulation from motherboard doesn't work anymore, which is not surprise to me.

I refer scenario 2 because you have enough power to run as many fans as you can put inside the case. and PWM function gives you more range to control fan speed than voltage modulation. Besides, voltage modulation only works WITHOUT the SATA connection, which limit you to 30W total power.

I think this will clear all the confusing about the fan hub. About frying CPU fan header, I'm not an electrician so I don't know what will happen if fans need more power than the header can provide. Maybe they just run at slow speed!


----------



## schoolofmonkey

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Voodoo411*
> 
> I think this will clear all the confusing about the fan hub.


Got it.
Clear now.

If you're AUX fan headers are fully PWM (Specs I've read on the Hero say they are), it doesn't matter which header you plug them into.
The Hero lets you select PWM, Volts or Auto.

One other question, is it better to remove the top exhaust fan if you're installing a H110 on the top.
I figured that it would take the airflow away from the RAD.


----------



## Accursed Entity

Again with the fan hub, it's getting scary...


----------



## schoolofmonkey

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Accursed Entity*
> 
> Again with the fan hub, it's getting scary...


Man that fills me with confidence..lol

Is it an ongoing issue?


----------



## Voodoo411

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *schoolofmonkey*
> 
> Got it.
> Clear now.
> 
> If you're AUX fan headers are fully PWM (Specs I've read on the Hero say they are), it doesn't matter which header you plug them into.
> The Hero lets you select PWM, Volts or Auto.
> 
> One other question, is it better to remove the top exhaust fan if you're installing a H110 on the top.
> I figured that it would take the airflow away from the RAD.


I don't think you have enough height
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *schoolofmonkey*
> 
> Got it.
> Clear now.
> 
> If you're AUX fan headers are fully PWM (Specs I've read on the Hero say they are), it doesn't matter which header you plug them into.
> The Hero lets you select PWM, Volts or Auto.
> 
> One other question, is it better to remove the top exhaust fan if you're installing a H110 on the top.
> I figured that it would take the airflow away from the RAD.


You meant the rear exhaust fan? I leave it there, I think It helps the air circulation


----------



## Screetch82

Hi

thanks, what I am aware on how to connect the fans. so the manual and the other thread confirms: ""PWM hub will enable PWM function to 3-pin fans." and this i just dont get somehow..My point was that

1. the case comes with non pwm fans but with a pwm hub
2. the pwm hub is for 3pin fans but most proper pwm fans are 4 pin
3. can i mix proper 4 pin pwm fans (aftermarket) with the non pwm 3 pin fans that come with the case?
4. do I buy more DC controled non pwm fans in addition to the ones that come with the case and hook them up to the hub to make them PWM like?
5.is it better to buy the 70 quid aqueous 5 LT as this can control DC fans as well as proper PWM fans? in this scenario i could reuse the 5 prepackaged DC 140mm fans,
buy 4 more of the same type --> for case air intake and top 420mm rad, as well as buy 8 4pin pwm fans the swiftech 8way pwm splitter and hook it up
to the one pwm channel of the aqueous.

I found this explanation here:
"_... it is critically important to distinguish between PWM fan controllers designed to manage regular 3 pin fan, and PWM fan controllers specifically designed to manage 4 pin PWM fans. In the first type, the 12v supply line is modulated by the fan controller and in the second type the controller sends a signal thru the 4th wire to the fan, and the fan motor modulates its speed according to this signal by using its onboard controller.

What is important to understand above is that PWM fans are designed to receive a fixed 12 v supply._"

so seems the case pwm hub is not a real pwm hub that works on the pwm signal but modulates the 12V power itself that goes to the fan based on a pwm signal it gets from the MObo.
--> so connecting a real 4pin pwm fan to the pwm case hub wont work

so scenario 1: use 3pin dc fan and semi pwm control them using the pwm connector of the mobo and the phantek hub
scenario 2: get a fan controller that can control the 5 DC fans that come with the hub and expand the fans with either 4pin PWM fans or more 3 pin DC fans
scenario 3: throw the 5 DC fans away and replace them by proper PWM fans for case and RAD
scenario 4: use the 5 DC fans that come with the case and hook them up directly to you mobo as case fans and buy 4pin PWM fans for all the rads and control
them via the mobo cpu pwm fan header / a separate real pwm fan controller


----------



## Ephruz

When I look at the fan mounts on the Enthoo Pro, I get confused by the top. It can hold 3 120's, 3 140's or 1 200. However, it looks like you could fit 1 200 in the front with 2 140's behind it based on the position of the fan mounts...or one 200 next to a 120 next to a 140. Is this possible?


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Screetch82*
> 
> Hi
> 
> thanks, what I am aware on how to connect the fans. so the manual and the other thread confirms: ""PWM hub will enable PWM function to 3-pin fans." and this i just dont get somehow..My point was that
> 
> 1. the case comes with non pwm fans but with a pwm hub
> 2. the pwm hub is for 3pin fans but most proper pwm fans are 4 pin
> 3. can i mix proper 4 pin pwm fans (aftermarket) with the non pwm 3 pin fans that come with the case?
> 4. do I buy more DC controled non pwm fans in addition to the ones that come with the case and hook them up to the hub to make them PWM like?
> 5.is it better to buy the 70 quid aqueous 5 LT as this can control DC fans as well as proper PWM fans? in this scenario i could reuse the 5 prepackaged DC 140mm fans,
> buy 4 more of the same type --> for case air intake and top 420mm rad, as well as buy 8 4pin pwm fans the swiftech 8way pwm splitter and hook it up
> to the one pwm channel of the aqueous.


The Phanteks PWM hub uses the PWM signal from your mobo to voltage control up to 30W of 3-pin fans (with the SATA or Molex connected). It is not a "PWM hub", as it does not work with 4-pin PWM fans. As it was explained to me, the PWM signal in from the mobo used to control a P channel mosfet that modulates the +12V supply to the 3-pin fan ports proportionally to the width of the PWM signal pulse.


----------



## Accursed Entity

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *schoolofmonkey*
> 
> Man that fills me with confidence..lol
> 
> Is it an ongoing issue?


I don't quite get it, but they've been discussing about it on and off for a long time now... I don't know if the fan hub is bad or just confusing to them.


----------



## Strider49

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> I use Mitre Bond or Mitre Mate glue and activator (about $20 a kit) for lap-joint corners.
> 
> Castors are about $2.50 each.
> 
> 10mm (3/8")Solid Baltic birch plywood is $10 for a 20"x30" piece
> 
> Lacquer spot putty to fill little imperfections (about $15)
> Several grits of sandpaper.
> Primer like used when painting a car and black acrylic lacquer for finish.
> 
> Not really a cheap project .. and a custom woodworking shop is almost a necessity. I'm a retired custom woodworker with lots of tools and experience.
> You could cut the base out of one piece and cut the center out of it. There are different castor and mount choices. I use the threaded pin because it is the most compact and cleanest looking.
> 
> Like I said, some nice blocks of wood or maybe ice hockey pucks (1" thick x 3"dia.) would do the job for you.


Thank you once again! I'll see what I can do. I'm going to get the wood and the glue in the next days and try to cut it as you said. But I still have some doubts about the painting job, lacquer application, castor mounting and the round edges/corners, so I might pass by when I'm done with the wood.









Thanks again for your patience!


----------



## Gabrielzm

Need a tripod and better light but it gives an idea of the final form of this build on the Enthoo Primo:



Love that small Aquacomputer reservoir


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> *Phanteks PWM Controlled Fan Hub*
> 
> Phanteks PWM fan hub _*requires*_ a true PWM signal* in order to control the fan speed of fans plugged into it.
> Phanteks PWM fan hub uses a true PWM signal to control / vary the voltage to 3-pin fans.
> Phanteks PWM fan hub uses 12 volt power from PSU to power the fans.
> 
> Phanteks PWM fan hub can handle up to 30 watts in total. Fan splitter can be used on all fan headers except FAN 1. Header FAN 1 is the "control" fan header.
> 
> Using Phanteks PWM fan hub on a variable voltage controlled motherboard fan header (3-pin or 4-pin) without using PSU power allows it to function as a 3-pin splitter / hub .. powering fans with motherboard fan header power.
> 
> *Motherboard PWM signal is only on CPU_FAN headers. _Motherboards *rarely* have PWM signal / control on any other fan headers._



*Phanteks PWM Fan Hub is controlled by PWM signal.*
*Phanteks PWM Fan Hub does not control fans with PWM*
*Phanteks PWM Fan Hub uses PWM signal to vary the voltage going to voltage controlled fans.*


----------



## GOLDDUBBY

Change the thread name to "phantek pwm controller troubleshooting"


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GOLDDUBBY*
> 
> Change the thread name to "phantek pwm controller troubleshooting"











Hopefully everyone will understand the Fan Hub soon.


----------



## schoolofmonkey

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GOLDDUBBY*
> 
> Change the thread name to "phantek pwm controller troubleshooting"


Seems that way, maybe Phantek can clarify for us all one day..lol
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hopefully everyone will understand the Fan Hub soon.


So there is no right answer at the moment, only a lot of guessing.
When my new Enthoo Primo turns up tomorrow I should just use the NZXT fan controller to save the hassles..lol


----------



## GOLDDUBBY

Yea I guess.. how hard can it be? And the included fans doesn't controll anyways, they only have one speed.


----------



## bond32

Why is it such a big deal we discuss the fan hub? Those of us that tested it clearly know what we are talking about. We have all indicated various issues and have yet to see a solution. Frankly, it's a nice change to actually discuss something productive rather than: "Will this XXX fit in XX??" or "Please add me to the club!".


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *schoolofmonkey*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Accursed Entity*
> 
> Again with the fan hub, it's getting scary...
> 
> 
> 
> Man that fills me with confidence..lol
> 
> Is it an ongoing issue?
Click to expand...

*Not if you plug it's fan cable to CPU fan header with PWM function working and the SATA cable plugged into PSU SATA.*







.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *schoolofmonkey*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *GOLDDUBBY*
> 
> Change the thread name to "phantek pwm controller troubleshooting"
> 
> 
> 
> Seems that way, maybe Phantek can clarify for us all one day..lol
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hopefully everyone will understand the Fan Hub soon.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> So there is no right answer at the moment, only a lot of guessing.
> When my new Enthoo Primo turns up tomorrow I should just use the NZXT fan controller to save the hassles..lol
Click to expand...

It's not a an issue with fan hub. It's a Picnic or Identity 10 tea issue. Person In Chair Not in Control or ID10T issue.









The reason for all the confusion is many people don't understand how PWM works .. motherboard manufacturers using 4-pin fan header with 3-pin fan functions .. not clearly label or saying what (if any) fan headers are real PWM .. often saying fan headers are PWM when they are not ..

And here is Phanteks with the only fan hub that uses PWM to supply variable voltage to 3-pin fans ..

*The only way to really be sure you have PWM on a 4-pin header is to plug a PWM fan's power leads to 12v power from PSU with PWM and rpm plugged into fan header.*


*If fan speed can be changed with this setup, than the Phanteks PWM controlled 3-pin fan hub will work.







*
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GOLDDUBBY*
> 
> Yea I guess.. how hard can it be? And the included fans doesn't controll anyways, they only have one speed.


Included fans on included hub plugged into motherboard CPU fan header with PWM and SATA power from PSU will control fans speed!

*Problem is people do not know what headers on their motherboard have PWM and / or how to set it to PWM.

Except in very rare ocassions the only fan hub that is able to supply PWM is the CPU fan headed .. and sometimes this must be set in bios.

Added to that are issues with Asus automatic fan speed tuning not working with hub.*


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> Why is it such a big deal we discuss the fan hub? Those of us that tested it clearly know what we are talking about. We have all indicated various issues and have yet to see a solution. Frankly, it's a nice change to actually discuss something productive rather than: "Will this XXX fit in XX??" or "Please add me to the club!".


Now unless we can talk about fan hubs.








Being here makes you one of us.


----------



## schoolofmonkey

Well confirms the Maximus VII Hero has 6 PWM controlled fan headers, not just the CPU.
http://www.overclockersclub.com/reviews/asus_rog_maximus_vii_hero/2.htm

They all have the same controller chip, so I'm in luck, I can try one of the other headers to start with.
Was worried I might kill a fan header, but doesn't seem that is the case, just plug in the fan connector and SATA power, then I'm all set.

I like the CPU headers controlling the H110 Noctua fans through PWM, has been working brilliantly so far.

I've got everything in a Carbine Air 540, but I think the extra space will help cooling, and a easier move to water cooling in the future.


----------



## fateswarm

Yep. Though I'd suggest searching the keyword in the manual rather than reviews because sometimes the wording is misleading. In this case the board must have a PWM mode in more headers than the CPU's because the manual is explicit that there is a DC mode and a PWM mode setting for headers 1-4.


----------



## GOLDDUBBY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> _Included fans_ on included hub plugged into motherboard CPU fan header with PWM and SATA power from PSU _will control fans speed!_
> 
> Problem is people do not know what headers on their motherboard have PWM and / or how to set it to PWM.


Really? .. they are not really supposed to, tho








Quote:


> Phanteks PH-F140SP Series Premier Fan
> 
> 9 Blade Design with MVB
> UFB Bearings
> 900mm total cable length
> *1200±250 rpm*


Ok, maybe some slight minimal control is possible..


----------



## Goon31

Accessories now available on the phanteks site. Plus the Luxe!


----------



## schoolofmonkey

What are the stock Phantek fans like in the Enthoo Primo?
Should I go replacing them, or they do fine?


----------



## GOLDDUBBY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *schoolofmonkey*
> 
> What are the stock Phantek fans like in the Enthoo Primo?
> Should I go replacing them, or they do fine?


Personally I prefer more adjustable and powerful, but depends.. they are quite quiet! Then again they only spin at 1200rpm

http://www.phanteks.com/PH-F140SP.html


----------



## bond32

Stock fans are actually one of the best 140mm fans in my opinion. I would add more, golddubby posted the link.

As for the motherboard, you should def. check the manual. For example, I have the maximus vi extreme which has 1000 something fan headers, all listed as "4-PIN" however, if you look in the manual, it actually shows that 4th pin is nothing but a +5V lead for every header EXCEPT the "CPU_FAN" and "CPU_OPT" which are indeed true PWM fan headers.

NVM, I found it for you. The maximus vii hero is the same as my board, so the only TRUE PWM HEADERS are the CPU_FAN and CPU_OPT. Took this straight from the vii hero manual:


----------



## schoolofmonkey

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GOLDDUBBY*
> 
> Personally I prefer more adjustable and powerful, but depends.. they are quite quiet! Then again they only spin at 1200rpm
> 
> http://www.phanteks.com/PH-F140SP.html


Cool, I have a box of fans, ranging from Noctua, to Bitfenix, Aerocool Corsair etc. Most are 120mm, but the Noctua's are 140mm, Intake is more important, will be top mounting the H110.
Just need to keep the GTX7880ti Classified a little cooler, the Carbine Air 540 is a little cramped and brings temps to 77c.

Only have 3 hard drives and 1 is a SSD, so I can pull the drive cages out..lol


----------



## rpjkw11

Phanteks announced the arrival of their Enthoo Luxe on or about Aug. 14. Here's the addy. Sorry, but I can't figure out how to make a link as it's too early and I've never made a link. Honest!

http://www.guru3d.com/news-story/phanteks-enthoo-luxe-full-tower-pc-case.html

Whoa! How did the link happen? Nice handy little feature for folks, like me, who are "link challenged". Anyway, the Luxe seems to be on the way!


----------



## Mako0312

About time!


----------



## WHIMington

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> 
> *Phanteks PWM Fan Hub is controlled by PWM signal.*
> *Phanteks PWM Fan Hub does not control fans with PWM*
> *Phanteks PWM Fan Hub uses PWM signal to vary the voltage going to voltage controlled fans.*


Actually
@IT Diva said in the Aquacomputer Aquaero thread said(after looking at the fan hub PCB) the hub might be using the PWM signal to control a P channel mosfet that pulses the +12V supply.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *schoolofmonkey*
> 
> Well confirms the Maximus VII Hero has 6 PWM controlled fan headers, not just the CPU.
> http://www.overclockersclub.com/reviews/asus_rog_maximus_vii_hero/2.htm
> 
> They all have the same controller chip, so I'm in luck, I can try one of the other headers to start with.
> Was worried I might kill a fan header, but doesn't seem that is the case, just plug in the fan connector and SATA power, then I'm all set.
> 
> I like the CPU headers controlling the H110 Noctua fans through PWM, has been working brilliantly so far.
> 
> I've got everything in a Carbine Air 540, but I think the extra space will help cooling, and a easier move to water cooling in the future.


My educated guess is the only fan header that is PWM is the CPU fan header .. the one mentioned in manual on xii Internal connectore;
*"1x 4-pin CPU fan connector for smart DC/PWM mode control"*

and at 1-42 in manual saying
*"The CPU_FAN connector has a special latch that detects the installed CPU fan type and automatically changes the fan control mode (DC mode and PWM mode) for the most precise fan control function."*

*That is the only fan header listed that indicates PWM control in it's discription! The fan header pinout does not say any are PWM signal ..
CPU_FAN = CPU_FAN PWM
CPU_OPT - CPU_OPT PWM
CHA_FAN 1,2,3 = CHA FAN PWM

But I find nothing in manual for any fan header but CPU_FAN referencing PWM control.

This is a perfect example of why so many people are having problems using the Phanteks PWM controlled 3-pin fan hub

The only way to really be sure you have PWM on a 4-pin header is to plug a PWM fan's power leads to 12v power from PSU with PWM and rpm plugged into fan header.*


----------



## Accursed Entity

I want to see video reviews on the Luxe and Evolv so much...


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Accursed Entity*
> 
> I want to see video reviews on the Luxe and Evolv so much...


I'm buying the Evolv regardless but I second wanting to see reviews for both cases!


----------



## rpjkw11

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Accursed Entity*
> 
> I want to see video reviews on the Luxe and Evolv so much...


Unconfirmed rumors have it that Dimitry @ Hardware Cunucks will review the Luxe soon. Looking forward to it!


----------



## doyll

Phanteks Enthoo Luxe is on Phanteks website now!
http://phanteks.com/Enthoo-Luxe.html

They are also have accessories now:
LED strips (Enthoo Luxe only)
PWM Fan Hub,
Pump Bracket,
SSD Bracket and
Y-Splitter

Looks like accessories can be bought online from PhanteksUSA
http://www.phanteksusa.com/pages/products


----------



## WHIMington

TBH though, I don't understand whats people thinks are wrong on the manuals, it said plain and simple that:

A) Connect the 4pin fan cable to a "TRUE" PWM header
B) Connect the SATA for power when using the said "TRUE" PWM
C) DO NOT connect the SATA if you only have voltage control.

The only bonus info that need to be test is the fact that you can actually use the MOBO PWM header to power the hub without connecting SATA power and it will still work.

With that said, people who complain about the manual "confusing" should go to look at an aricraft maintenance manual or the operator's general maintenance manual, because it simply cannot get more confusing then those damn things








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rpjkw11*
> 
> Unconfirmed rumors have it that Dimitry @ Hardware Cunucks will review the Luxe soon. Looking forward to it!


It is actually from their Twitter post, I also asked about it on their youtube channel, and they respond the review is coming......soon™









Anyway, f*** it, I will order a Luxe from taobao this or next week









P.S. with that said I might have to disassemble my Pro for now to make room for my Luxe built


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *schoolofmonkey*
> 
> What are the stock Phantek fans like in the Enthoo Primo?
> Should I go replacing them, or they do fine?


The stock PH-F140SP fans will run from about 600rpm up to 1200rpm. They are not just 1200rpm fans.









Phanteks manual is fine. It's motherboard manufacturers and manuals that do not tell us what if any headers are "True" PWM.


----------



## bond32

Looks like they have red fans now?! http://www.amazon.com/Phanteks-Premier-140mm-Cooling-PH-F140SP_BK_RLED/dp/B00L6CKOLQ/ref=sr_1_20?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1405536151&sr=1-20&keywords=PHANTEKS

This is news to me...


----------



## brian-phanteks

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> Looks like they have red fans now?! http://www.amazon.com/Phanteks-Premier-140mm-Cooling-PH-F140SP_BK_RLED/dp/B00L6CKOLQ/ref=sr_1_20?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1405536151&sr=1-20&keywords=PHANTEKS
> 
> This is news to me...


Our 140SP fans are available with White, Blue, Red, or Orange LED options.


----------



## wikoster

The happiness I feel about the Luxe is literally equivalent to the summation of all happiness felt by kids on Christmas day.

Now, how to convince the husband that I really truly do need to upgrade my case to a Luxe....


----------



## GOLDDUBBY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wikoster*
> 
> The happiness I feel about the Luxe is literally equivalent to the summation of all happiness felt by kids on Christmas day.
> 
> Now, how to convince the husband that I really truly do need to upgrade my case to a Luxe....


You have a husband? Respect!

The white Luxe is über smexy imo!


----------



## Accursed Entity

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> I'm buying the Evolv regardless but I second wanting to see reviews for both cases!


Yes! Actually the Evolv is what I want too but I don't know yet... My new build will be on 1440p and I want 2 GPUs, but I won't watercool them.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rpjkw11*
> 
> Unconfirmed rumors have it that Dimitry @ Hardware Cunucks will review the Luxe soon. Looking forward to it!


Yeah, they've been around for awhile now, hopefully soon!


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Accursed Entity*
> 
> Yes! Actually the Evolv is what I want too but I don't know yet... My new build will be on 1440p and I want 2 GPUs, but I won't watercool them.


I will be running 2x 780ti's and a custom loop, I'm going all out! , feel free to sub to my build log in my Sig "Devils Lair"


----------



## Dorito Bandit

*Phanteks Enthoo Pro White*

I just noticed that Phanteks is now offering a white version of the Enthoo Pro, found here. http://www.phanteksusa.com/products/phanteks-enthoo-pro-white Damn nice looking case!


----------



## rpjkw11

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dorito Bandit*
> 
> *Phanteks Enthoo Pro White*
> 
> I just noticed that Phanteks is now offering a white version of the Enthoo Pro, found here. http://www.phanteksusa.com/products/phanteks-enthoo-pro-white Damn nice looking case!


I have both a black and a white Primo and, let me tell you, the white really highlights the design and looks so much nicer. I would expect the same to be true for the Pro.


----------



## Strider49

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Phanteks Enthoo Luxe is on Phanteks website now!
> http://phanteks.com/Enthoo-Luxe.html
> 
> They are also have accessories now:
> LED strips (Enthoo Luxe only)
> PWM Fan Hub,
> Pump Bracket,
> SSD Bracket and
> Y-Splitter
> 
> Looks like accessories can be bought online from PhanteksUSA
> http://www.phanteksusa.com/pages/products


Why are those LED strips only for the Luxe? And still no reservoir bracket for the Primo? I'd like to have one spare just in case things go wrong if I have to dremel mine to fit a longer PCB graphics card... :S


----------



## brian-phanteks

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Strider49*
> 
> Why are those LED strips only for the Luxe? And still no reservoir bracket for the Primo? I'd like to have one spare just in case things go wrong if I have to dremel mine to fit a longer PCB graphics card... :S


The LED strips are for the Enthoo Luxe Only, because of its connector. It is an RGB strip connected to the same controller as the external LEDs on the Luxe so your interior and exterior lights will be the same color.


----------



## Roxycon

will the single slot ssd bracket fit the primo?


----------



## bond32

Ordered a pwm fan hub and a bunch of splitters. Going to find out if the one I have that came with my pro is defective.


----------



## brian-phanteks

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roxycon*
> 
> will the single slot ssd bracket fit the primo?


Yes.


----------



## Roxycon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brian-phanteks*
> 
> Yes.


sweet, thanks


----------



## Mako0312

*Enthoo Luxe*

http://www.pureoverclock.com/Review-detail/phanteks-enthoo-luxe-full-tower-case/


----------



## Accursed Entity

*Enthoo Luxe*

Yes!


----------



## Dorito Bandit

Hey guys,

just a friendly suggestion - let's title our posts when you will be posting about a specific case. For example; if your post is about the Enthoo Pro, your posting title will be Enthoo Pro. Just give it the title of the case you'll be posting about. If it's just a general post/question about anything else, give it a title of anything you want, or none at all. This way it will be easier for everyone to scroll through all the posts and find the info on the case or questions, they're interested in. It's NOT mandatory to title your posts, but it could be very helpful. All this great info being posted in this huge thread can easily get lost amongst all the 'random' postings. Let's help doyll keep things nice and tidy around here.









Just a suggestion. Carry on.


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Accursed Entity*
> 
> Yes!


getting this as soon as it goes on sale.


----------



## Accursed Entity

*Enthoo Luxe*
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PureBlackFire*
> 
> getting this as soon as it goes on sale.


I have to wait till September... but it is a beautiful case right? and that top fan grill it's so easy to remove.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dorito Bandit*
> 
> -snip-


Nice one, I'll be doing that from now on!


----------



## Dorito Bandit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Accursed Entity*
> 
> *Enthoo Luxe*
> I have to wait till September... but it is a beautiful case right? and that top fan grill it's so easy to remove.
> Nice one, I'll be doing that from now on!


Awesome! Thanks for your help! I just gave you your first Rep!


----------



## firefoxx04

id like to find out if the top panel on the luxe can fit the pro without looking funny. Thats assuming a fan can fit under the top panel but above the fan mount. Wishful thinking but you never know.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *schoolofmonkey*
> 
> What are the stock Phantek fans like in the Enthoo Primo?
> Should I go replacing them, or they do fine?


They do more than fine..... the 1200 rpm Phanteks outperform the 1500 rpm Noctua's by 3C .... Yowza

http://www.overclockersclub.com/reviews/phenteks_f140/3.htm

Also top the performance / noise ratio charts over at silentpcreview.com .... they actually got topped by an Antec Model but as the Antec had the annoying PWM ticking sound, it's not something I would buy. I have 10 installed in the Primo and they never exceed 850 rpm..... Now that I have a 3rd hub on the way, I'll jump to 16 fans.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *schoolofmonkey*
> 
> Well confirms the Maximus VII Hero has 6 PWM controlled fan headers, not just the CPU.
> http://www.overclockersclub.com/reviews/asus_rog_maximus_vii_hero/2.htm
> 
> They all have the same controller chip, so I'm in luck, I can try one of the other headers to start with.
> Was worried I might kill a fan header, but doesn't seem that is the case, just plug in the fan connector and SATA power, then I'm all set.
> 
> I like the CPU headers controlling the H110 Noctua fans through PWM, has been working brilliantly so far.
> 
> I've got everything in a Carbine Air 540, but I think the extra space will help cooling, and a easier move to water cooling in the future.


I have my doubts about that..... many reviewers see 4 pins and assume PWM.... they said same thing about my M6F and it does not do PWM on anything but chassis headers.

So you replaced the 1500 rpm H110 fans with Noctua 1500 rpm fans ? Any perceptable difference ? Was there a temperature drop after the switch ? A Noctua DH-14 ties with the H110 w/ stock fans. The Phanteks PH-TC14-PE edges both by half degree or so ..... my guess is because of the fans not the cooler so you should see even more improvement with the Phanteks fans.

The only downside to using the no PWM chassis headers is that you are limited to between 6 - 8 fans per header since ya can't usethe 12v Molex / SATA connector w/o killing speed control.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *schoolofmonkey*
> 
> Seems that way, maybe Phantek can clarify for us all one day..lol
> So there is no right answer at the moment, only a lot of guessing.
> When my new Enthoo Primo turns up tomorrow I should just use the NZXT fan controller to save the hassles..lol


They have, many times. It's a very straightforward thing, no guessing required. What confuses people is they assume that a 4 pin header means PWM, this is not accurate.

You want to control PWM Fans with a PWM signal buy a Swiftech PCB

You want to control DC Fans with a variable voltage signal buy a ModMyToys PCB

You want to control DC Fans with either a PWM or variable voltage signal buy a Phanteks PCB .....
-- Use PWM Header and the SATA / Molex Connector, you can do 11 fans.

-- Use PWM Header and no SATA / Molex Connector, you can connect up to 6 Phanteks SP140s with a decent amount of confidence as it allows plenty of room for inrush current on a 1 amp header .... I have had 8 on there w/ no issue.

-- Use Variable voltage Header and no SATA / Molex Connector, you can connect up to 6 Phanteks SP140s with a decent amount of confidence as it allows plenty of room for inrush current on a 1 amp header .... I have had 8 on there w/ no issue.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Added to that are issues with Asus automatic fan speed tuning not working with hub.[/SIZE][/B]


Can't speak to PWM Headers as my two headers are busy w/ the 35x2 but they work just grand on Asus CHA headers .... at least on the M6F.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GOLDDUBBY*
> 
> Ok, maybe some slight minimal control is possible..


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> The stock PH-F140SP fans will run from about 600rpm up to 1200rpm. They are not just 1200rpm fans.


That 1200 +/- 250 does NOT mean a range of 950 - 1450 rpm .... it means your max speed depending on air resistance and production variabilities might be in that range. I used Asus FanXpert 2 to auto tune my fans.... they set a minimum speed a bit above the stall point and in practice I see the fan speed range from 326 rpm to 850 rpm .....under heavy stress testing, it will go from 326 rpm to 1238 rpm. The PWM version reportedly goes down to 300 rpm.... I think the minimum speed the tuning utility determined was about 302 rpm.


----------



## Dorito Bandit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *firefoxx04*
> 
> id like to find out if the top panel on the luxe can fit the pro without looking funny. Thats assuming a fan can fit under the top panel but above the fan mount. Wishful thinking but you never know.


I was actually wondering if the top and front would fit the Pro. Would be sweet if so. I wish all case manufacturers would at least offer us different styling options for their cases. For instance; if my current case has a solid front piece, I'd like to be able to buy a mesh front panel piece, same for the top piece. Various color options would be nice as well. I dunno, sounds like a great idea to me.


----------



## PureBlackFire

maybe. the frame looks the same on both cases.


----------



## Mako0312

So is using the PWM hub the way to control fans if I want to watercool?


----------



## schoolofmonkey

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> So you replaced the 1500 rpm H110 fans with Noctua 1500 rpm fans ? Any perceptable difference ? Was there a temperature drop after the switch ? A Noctua DH-14 ties with the H110 w/ stock fans. The Phanteks PH-TC14-PE edges both by half degree or so ..... my guess is because of the fans not the cooler so you should see even more improvement with the Phanteks fans.


No I replaced the Noctua NF-A14 PWM 1500rpm with the Noctua NF-A14 Industrial PPC 140mm 2000RPM PWM, I've found them quieter and temps dropped by about 3 - 4c.
Sound weird, but they are made from a different lighter material.

Not too sure what to do with the PWM CPU headers, I can't run 2 of the Noctua's off 1 CPU header, and the CPU_OPT connector will control the case fans in the same was as the H110 fans.
Couldn't hurt to try on of the other fan headers to start with, I can always just bypass the fan hub for the NZXT Sentry 3 fan controller....lol..


----------



## RnRollie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mako0312*
> 
> So is using the PWM hub the way to control fans if I want to watercool?


It is certainly an option ... depending on the rads, the type & number of fans


----------



## Accursed Entity

*Enthoo Luxe*

TechPowerUp's review on the Luxe is up!
http://www.techpowerup.com/reviews/Phanteks/Enthoo_Luxe/


----------



## rpjkw11

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Accursed Entity*
> 
> *Enthoo Luxe*
> 
> TechPowerUp's review on the Luxe is up!
> http://www.techpowerup.com/reviews/Phanteks/Enthoo_Luxe/


If I correctly understood the review, CPU coolers higher then 140mm won't fit. That would rule out many or most of the better coolers so one would almost be forced to go with water cooling. That, for me, will squash any temptation to sell one of my Primos and buy a Luxe as I'm very happy with my Phanteks TC-14PE and Noctua NH-D15. On the other hand......


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rpjkw11*
> 
> If I correctly understood the review, CPU coolers higher then 140mm won't fit. That would rule out many or most of the better coolers so one would almost be forced to go with water cooling. That, for me, will squash any temptation to sell one of my Primos and buy a Luxe as I'm very happy with my Phanteks TC-14PE and Noctua NH-D15. On the other hand......


They have made a big mistake in saying that. Phanteks specs say Enthoo Luxe supports CPU coolers up to 193mm and Pro has 193mm so I'm saying 193mm.
Case is 235mm wide, 27mm behind motherboard for cable management means 207+mm in front. Motherboard stand-off screws are 6-7mm (can't remember exactly) motherboard is 2mm, CPU is 8mm form 208mm gives us 193mm CPU clearance.
Most cases with 120mm rear exhaust fans support 160mm or more, and Enthoo Luxe has 140mm rear fan that would indicate 180mm coolers would fit.


----------



## Accursed Entity

*Enthoo Luxe*

Nice view of the space under the top cover, I love it.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> -snip-


Rep+! Yes, it was a mistake!


----------



## rpjkw11

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> They have made a big mistake in saying that. Phanteks specs say Enthoo Luxe supports CPU coolers up to 193mm and Pro has 193mm so I'm saying 193mm.
> Case is 235mm wide, 27mm behind motherboard for cable management means 207+mm in front. Motherboard stand-off screws are 6-7mm (can't remember exactly) motherboard is 2mm, CPU is 8mm form 208mm gives us 193mm CPU clearance.
> Most cases with 120mm rear exhaust fans support 160mm or more, and Enthoo Luxe has 140mm rear fan that would indicate 180mm coolers would fit.


That's what I thought I'd remembered reading, Doyll, and why I was confused. Such a limitation didn't make sense for a full tower but I couldn't figure out how they could\make such a bone-headed error.

Thanks for the clarification, my friend.


----------



## bond32

Dangit. Looks like the Lux would fit push pull up top... Well I might be getting either the primo or the lux to join the pro now. WTH is wrong with me?!


----------



## PureBlackFire

so thr Pro definitely fit big air coolers, but the Luxe won't? also, what does he mean by "No 3.5" bay"?


----------



## Accursed Entity

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PureBlackFire*
> 
> so thr Pro definitely fit big air coolers, but the Luxe won't? also, what does he mean by "No 3.5" bay"?


Yeah that's a mistake, and to be honest, not the best review, the images is what I liked about it.


----------



## GOLDDUBBY

Luxe reminds ALOT of the nzxt switch.

The flippy cover for the front usb/reset/led and the controller itself. Very similar.
The back fan mounting design.
Top rad mounting design.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PureBlackFire*
> 
> so thr Pro definitely fit big air coolers, but the Luxe won't? also, what does he mean by "No 3.5" bay"?


Can't you look at the pictures and see all the 3.5" bays?









I think TechPowerUP need to do a proper review with a reviewer sees reality as it really is.









Rather heavy for a chassis of this size














_*Only because it's well built.*_
No 3.5" bay







*Has lots of 3.5" bays.*
ODD locks do not hold well ODD







*Assume thats 5.25" bay locks.*
140 mm tower coolers won't fit














*Fits 193mm coolers, and who makes a 140mm tower cooler?*
Windows have a strong tint which hides the hardware a little too well *Some like tint, some don't*.








Looks may not be for everyone







*Of course looks are not for everyone.*


----------



## AMW1011

So besides an aluminum faceplate instead of plastic, the LED strips, and more clearance for radiators up top, what is the major differences between the Enthoo Luxe and Pro?


----------



## rpjkw11

The one thing I do like about the Luxe and rather dislike about the Primo is the Luxe does NOT have a door covering the drive bays. I hate doors! One of the hinges on an old case broke and it was always a huge pain in the a** whenever I had to open it (which was often). I've had to grudgingly accept doors because it seems the cases I like mostly have 'em, including the Primo. At least with the Primo I don't have to mess with the door when I turn on the rig. Still, it's nice to see a well designed and built case that has done away with "the door".

End of rant!


----------



## Qu1ckset

Can one of you guys do me a small favour ? Can you show me what the front panel HD-Audio cables looks like , especially the part that goes plugs into the motherboard ?

I'm planning on getting the Evolv with the ASUS M7G but it has that ugly daughter board for sound like the Impact...


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *PureBlackFire*
> 
> so thr Pro definitely fit big air coolers, but the Luxe won't? also, what does he mean by "No 3.5" bay"?
> 
> 
> 
> Can't you look at the pictures and see all the 3.5" bays?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think TechPowerUP need to do a proper review with a reviewer sees reality as it really is.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Rather heavy for a chassis of this size
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> _*Only because it's well built.*_
> No 3.5" bay
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Has lots of 3.5" bays.*
> ODD locks do not hold well ODD
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Assume thats 5.25" bay locks.*
> 140 mm tower coolers won't fit
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Fits 193mm coolers, and who makes a 140mm tower cooler?*
> Windows have a strong tint which hides the hardware a little too well *Some like tint, some don't*.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Looks may not be for everyone
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Of course looks are not for everyone.*
Click to expand...

hey now, the case is heavy. it's like 60% heavier than the 750D and they are almost exactly the same size. besides that, I love tinted windows. especially on a white case. just look at Define R4 blackout. and they look far better than clear windows when you throw an LED strip inside. it would be ultr stupid for Phanteks to release any case, let alone a full tower, that can't hold their own flagship cooler. I hate it when the first reviews for a good product are the subpar ones. just like Devil's Canyon stuff all over again.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AMW1011*
> 
> So besides an aluminum faceplate instead of plastic, the LED strips, and more clearance for radiators up top, what is the major differences between the Enthoo Luxe and Pro?


an extra SSD bracket, pump bracket and an extra included 140mm fan.


----------



## PureBlackFire

delete.


----------



## Dorito Bandit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> Can one of you guys do me a small favour ? Can you show me what the front panel HD-Audio cables looks like , especially the part that goes plugs into the motherboard ?
> 
> I'm planning on getting the Evolv with the ASUS M7G but it has that ugly daughter board for sound like the Impact...


*Enthoo Pro*

Not sure what case you are asking about, but here is the front HD Audio cable of my Enthoo Pro. I'd imagine it's the same for all the other Phanteks cases..










By the way, I have a piece of white tape on the HD Audio cable.

Hope this helps.


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dorito Bandit*
> 
> *Enthoo Pro*
> 
> Not sure what case you are asking about, but here is the front HD Audio cable of my Enthoo Pro. I'd imagine it's the same for all the other Phanteks cases..
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> By the way, I have a piece of white tape on the HD Audio cable.
> 
> Hope this helps.


Thanks man +1 Rep







, Definitely getting a sleeved extension cable!


----------



## Dorito Bandit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> Thanks man +1 Rep
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , Definitely getting a sleeved extension cable!


Yes, that's what I have the tape there for. Nice sleeving, eh?


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PureBlackFire*
> 
> hey now, the case is heavy. it's like 60% heavier than the 750D and they are almost exactly the same size. besides that, I love tinted windows. especially on a white case. just look at Define R4 blackout. and they look far better than clear windows when you throw an LED strip inside. it would be ultr stupid for Phanteks to release any case, let alone a full tower, that can't hold their own flagship cooler. I hate it when the first reviews for a good product are the subpar ones. just like Devil's Canyon stuff all over again.


Enthoo Luxe is only 43% heavier than 750D, not 60%









Enthoo Luxe is about right weight for a quality case of it's size in steel.

Phanteks Enthoo Luxe .= . 235 mm x 560 mm x 550 mm (W x H x D) 13.9Kg net, 16Kg gross
Fractal Design Arc XL. . = . 232mm x 572 mm x 552mm; 13.8Kg net, 16.3Kg gross
Fractal Design Define R4 = 232mm x 464mm x 523mm; 12.3Kg net

750D is light

Obsidian 750D = 235mm x 560 mm x 546mm ; 9.73Kg net


----------



## fateswarm

Aluminium is a slightly weaker construction material but it's lighter, hence the net result is usually considered superior. It's probably a cost thing. However, I would not care at all about that factor, if the case doesn't move from its position.


----------



## RnRollie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PureBlackFire*
> 
> delete.


aaaaarhhhh !! all my high-score save-games gone! my pr0n collection of decades gone!!! what have you done!!!























Seriously, what bothers me about the Luxe/Pro is what bothers me with most cases: the PSU taking up real estate and blocking good airflow to a GPU.
Of course its a smaller case, so less room for rads, basically only a 360 up top , 200/240 up front if you sacrifice drive bays..; and i'm not convinced that you can actually have a 240 on the floor without getting langled up in PSU wiring. But i could be wrong.









A white Lux or Pro would be nice; but would -for me- lead to an external MO-RA.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Enthoo Luxe is only 43% heavier than 750D, not 60%
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Enthoo Luxe is about right weight for a quality case of it's size in steel.
> 
> Phanteks Enthoo Luxe .= . 235 mm x 560 mm x 550 mm (W x H x D) 13.9Kg net, 16Kg gross
> Fractal Design Arc XL. . = . 232mm x 572 mm x 552mm; 13.8Kg net, 16.3Kg gross
> Fractal Design Define R4 = 232mm x 464mm x 523mm; 12.3Kg net
> 
> 750D is light
> 
> Obsidian 750D = 235mm x 560 mm x 546mm ; 9.73Kg net


What do these three incredibly well built cases have in common that Corsair cases do not.......

I don't get the fascination with the Corsair cases. I use Phanteks, Fractal and Silverstone regularly, with an NZXT here and there. Every time I work with a Corsair case, regardless of which it is, I feel like I am working with a $70 Tt.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> [
> What do these three incredibly well built cases have in common that Corsair cases do not.......
> 
> I don't get the fascination with the Corsair cases. I use Phanteks, Fractal and Silverstone regularly, with an NZXT here and there. Every time I work with a Corsair case, regardless of which it is, I feel like I am working with a $70 Tt.


Indeed.








I should have put more lines between them and the that other case.


----------



## chrisnyc75

IMHO, it's almost unfair to compare Phanteks cases to Corsair. I've worked with a lot of Corsair cases, and while they are well designed, they're not always particularly well built. The quality of construction, attention to detail, and "finishing touches" on Phanteks cases is just another level. More on par with Caselabs, but priced closer to Corsair. Win-win.


----------



## Accursed Entity

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chrisnyc75*
> 
> IMHO, it's almost unfair to compare Phanteks cases to Corsair. I've worked with a lot of Corsair cases, and while they are well designed, they're not always particularly well built. The quality of construction, attention to detail, and "finishing touches" on Phanteks cases is just another level. More on par with Caselabs, but priced closer to Corsair. Win-win.


You sir, Rep+! My opinion is the same.


----------



## PureBlackFire

hey now, Corsair 800D, 500R and C70 are very well built. I cannot defend the build quality on the most of the 2012-current releases as they are noticeably worse than the ones I mentioned. just two days ago my friend and I were talking about how my 500R and our other long time friend's C70 steel panels feel twice as thick as those on his 750D. hold the 750D side panel in your hand and shake it. it wobbles like crazy. the mobo tray too has too much give. it's crazy that a year ago I was very high on the 750D. it looked like a great full tower for the price and mostly it is, just wish the build of it was better. I won't comment on how they keep seemingly forgetting finishing touches on released cases.


----------



## chrisnyc75

Totally, Corsair has long been my "go to" for pc chassis(es?) - but mostly because the top quality builds (i.e. Caselabs, Lian-Li, Mt Mods, etc) were just too expensive. Now that Phanteks is on the scene with prices just about on par with Corsair and other "mainstream" chassis manufacturers, though, it's hard to justify going back to those other mainstream manufacturers. I've had my Enthoo Primo for almost a year now, and I'm even more impressed with the quality now than I was the day I got it.

Not to say anything "bad" about Corsair or whomever, just to say that I'm really very impressed with Phanteks. Color me converted.


----------



## owcraftsman

Keep in mind our cases are put together with screws not rivets. Aluminum is to soft and would not stand up to the demand. Kudos to Phanteks for making the modular nature of the case a priority amongst other things.

Ordered my extra PWM Hub today from phanteksusa.com Glad accessories are finally in stock. Thanks to whom ever mentioned the availability in a previous post here which made me go look.

While I was there I noticed the 1m & 2m rgb led strips but they say for the luxe only. Seems I recall that the Primo has a connector for additional strip as well. Could anyone confirm or deny this?


----------



## brian-phanteks

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *owcraftsman*
> 
> Keep in mind our cases are put together with screws not rivets. Aluminum is to soft and would not stand up to the demand. Kudos to Phanteks for making the modular nature of the case a priority amongst other things.
> 
> Ordered my extra PWM Hub today from phanteksusa.com Glad accessories are finally in stock. Thanks to whom ever mentioned the availability in a previous post here which made me go look.
> 
> While I was there I noticed the 1m & 2m rgb led strips but they say for the luxe only. Seems I recall that the Primo has a connector for additional strip as well. Could anyone confirm or deny this?


The Primo does have a connector for an LED strip but it is only molex/sata power. It would be used similar to a light switch either ON or OFF. The controller on the Luxe is also a four pin but it controls the RGB signal to the LED strip.


----------



## MrGrievous

O man I am so torn between the white Pro and Luxe and now I have to pick one lol


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrGrievous*
> 
> O man I am so torn between the white Pro and Luxe and now I have to pick one lol


Pro. save yourself $50 and let their be more Luxe on the market when I go to buy mine.


----------



## Dorito Bandit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrGrievous*
> 
> O man I am so torn between the white Pro and Luxe and now I have to pick one lol


*Enthoo Pro*

Well, they're both great looking cases, that's for sure. I am sure you'd be happy with either one. For the money, you just can't beat the Enthoo Pro, IMHO. Plus, that white version looks super sexy! Also, you CAN buy a strip of lights (if you wish) and light up the inside of the Pro. So, if you don't need the built-in lighting of the Luxe, go for the Pro and save yourself a little cash. But if you're really digging the lights on the Luxe, then hey, by all means get the Luxe. It's a damn fine case, too! Decisions, decisions!









Okay, just get the white Pro and post a lot of pics on here so I can drool over it and possibly sell my black pro and get me a white one, too.


----------



## MrGrievous

Yea honestly I will happy with either one loland the price diff does not bother me as I know I'm getting quality except that I cant do push pull on the pro and even if the tops of the Luxe case was available to be bought separately I don't think it would fit even though the cases share a similar frame


----------



## PureBlackFire

it might. in those pics it looks like the top of the stealth cover is in the same spot relative to the frame. the panels are just taller. if the clips are in the same spot no issues. we'll see after the luxe launches. we can't tell from the outside alone. maybe Brian can comment on this?


----------



## schoolofmonkey

My Enthoo Primo will be delivered today, can't wait, but not looking forward to the transplant from the Corsair Air 540.
Stupid me ordered it and forgot to get a 8pin CPU power extension, from what I've read you need it, so got to run out and get that today..

I'll let you guys know how I got with the fan hub and using the other fan header, otherwise I got the fan controller.


----------



## shilka

I am going to buy the Phanteks Enthoo Luxe once i got the money for all the parts i need, am going to move from X79 to Z97 instead i just need the money for it all as i hate buying a few parts at a time, anyway i was thinking of throwing away all the Phanteks fans (both the 200mm and the 140mm fans) and replace them with 6x Noctua NF-A14 industrialPPC-2000 fans instead.


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> I am going to buy the Phanteks Enthoo Luxe once i got the money for all the parts i need, am going to move from X79 to Z97 instead i just need the money for it all as i hate buying a few parts at a time, anyway i was thinking of throwing away all the Phanteks fans (both the 200mm and the 140mm fans) and replace them with 6x Noctua NF-A14 industrialPPC-2000 fans instead.


you can mail the fans to me anytime.


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PureBlackFire*
> 
> you can mail the fans to me anytime.


Sure you can have them if you want to pay for the shipping, think i am just going to give them away or throw them over in the corner together with all the other crap i got laying around.
I could replace the PSU first and sell my old one and then buy case and everything else later, dont have money for everything all at once not untill sep or oct at least.


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> Sure you can have them if you want to *pay for the shipping*, think i am just going to give them away or throw them over in the corner together with all the other crap i got laying around.
> I could replace the PSU first and sell my old one and then buy case and everything else later, dont have money for everything all at once not untill sep or oct at least.


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PureBlackFire*


I was joking off course you are not going to pay for shipping i already knew that, think i am just going to have them laying around you never know what you might need them for.


----------



## bond32

The included Phanteks fans (except the 200mm) are really good fans. I would have rated them possibly the best 140's you could get. But I also don't know much about the Noctua's yet other than they do have some good looking specs.


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> The included Phanteks fans (except the 200mm) are really good fans. I would have rated them possibly the best 140's you could get. But I also don't know much about the Noctua's yet other than they do have some good looking specs.


These are the ones i am looking at
http://www.noctua.at/main.php?show=productview&products_id=85&lng=en

Or just get 5x of the normal A14 since i already got 1x
http://www.noctua.at/main.php?show=productview&products_id=52&lng=en

Am sick and tired of crappy fans i have had Bitfenix and Xigmatek and tons of other fans and they all suck butt and not air, this time i dont care how much i have to spend on fans to get the best, if that means i have 300$ on fans alone then so be it i dont care, almost forgot to say i already got a fan controller i am going to reuse in the Luxe.


----------



## koniu777

Mine came in from Newegg, the window has some minor scratches on the inside from the accessory box flying around during shipping, should look like new after I polish that thing.

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk


----------



## koniu777

Btw, I got some new toys for this upcoming build :-D



















Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk


----------



## Accursed Entity

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *koniu777*
> 
> -snip-


What's the name of that reservoir?


----------



## koniu777

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Accursed Entity*
> 
> What's the name of that reservoir?


Monsoon series 2

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/19676/ex-res-490/Monsoon_Series_Two_Premium_D5_MCP655_Dual_Bay_Reservoir_w_Quick_Change_LED_Control_-_Matte_Black_w_Black_Trim_M2-D5P-MB.html?tl=g30c107s152


----------



## bond32

Little update on my progress... Still waiting on the following :
Koolance D5 pump top with reservoir
Koolance 380i cpu block
4xSwiftech helix pwm fans
2xKoolance 290x gpu blocks
1 additional pwm fan hub
6xfan splitters

And yes, I'm fitting 1080 mm of rad space inside the Pro, which includes a 360 monsta in push pull. Can it be done? Let's find out...


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *koniu777*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Accursed Entity*
> 
> What's the name of that reservoir?
> 
> 
> 
> Monsoon series 2
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/19676/ex-res-490/Monsoon_Series_Two_Premium_D5_MCP655_Dual_Bay_Reservoir_w_Quick_Change_LED_Control_-_Matte_Black_w_Black_Trim_M2-D5P-MB.html?tl=g30c107s152
Click to expand...

Yeah I'm normally not too thrilled by a bay res but I am going to give that one a try. I've just been waiting for this to expire:
Quote:


> For a limited time, all Monsoon S2 reservoirs will ship with FREE color matched Silver Bullet antimicrobial plugs already installed!


I will not have any silver in my loop whatsoever. Same reason I won't use Monsoon's fittings ever since they added antimicrobial silver barbs/centers for all of them. I guess I could just get the res and a couple stop plugs for them, assuming they are standard G1/4 plugs, but I'd rather that 'limited time' offer would run its course. If I have to buy it with those plugs they are going straight in the garbage.


----------



## Accursed Entity

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Yeah I'm normally not too thrilled by a bay res but I am going to give that one a try. I've just been waiting for this to expire:
> I will not have any silver in my loop whatsoever. Same reason I won't use Monsoon's fittings ever since they added antimicrobial silver barbs/centers for all of them. I guess I could just get the res and a couple stop plugs for them, assuming they are standard G1/4 plugs, but I'd rather that 'limited time' offer would run its course. If I have to buy it with those plugs they are going straight in the garbage.


Why? I'm planning my first watercool system for a Luxe, that's why I'm asking.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

I have always only used distilled plus Nuke biocide. No coolants or anticorrosion additives. I have managed to keep from having issues with corrosion so far by having as few metals as possible in my loops. Pretty much all copper / brass and whatever bit of stainless a lot of blocks have. I don't do nickel. I don't do silver, and I'm sure not doing aluminum whether it's been anodized or not. I drain and refill often, and once every year or so I'll tear it all down & open up the blocks for an inspection and maybe a bit of cleaning.

edit:



I just prefer to try to keep all the metals in my loops as close to each other in galvanic potential as I can manage.


----------



## schoolofmonkey

Ok done.
Well I'm happy to report that my Fan Hub is plugged into my Chassis 1 fan port running off PWM perfectly.
When I get the Classified's back plate, I'll attach a Thermal sensor to it to adjust the PWM fan speed, but as it stands now this case with PWM running off CPU temps knocked a full 10c off the GPU temps.
There is 2 fans as intake at the bottom, as I remove the top fan due to putting the RAD up there.

I did plug in the molex just for additional power for the fans, the male molex threw me when I was plugging everything in, but I soon worked it out.
The internal shroud that hides the cables, doesn't fit with the GTX780ti Classified, card is too big.
When I opened the box my jaw dropped at the shear size of this case, the wife let a *** go too..lol

http://s1294.photobucket.com/user/schoolofmonkey2/media/20140718_153023_zps254815d6.jpg.html


----------



## RnRollie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> These are the ones i am looking at
> http://www.noctua.at/main.php?show=productview&products_id=85&lng=en
> 
> Or just get 5x of the normal A14 since i already got 1x
> http://www.noctua.at/main.php?show=productview&products_id=52&lng=en
> 
> Am sick and tired of crappy fans i have had Bitfenix and Xigmatek and tons of other fans and they all suck butt and not air*, this time i dont care how much i have to spend on fans to get the best,* if that means i have 300$ on fans alone then so be it i dont care, almost forgot to say i already got a fan controller i am going to reuse in the Luxe.


http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=36_1130_403&products_id=24322


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RnRollie*
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=36_1130_403&products_id=24322


I would like to be able to keep my hearing thank you


----------



## RnRollie

*Fan Hub*

One of the benefits of the Fan Hub:
 +  +  + 

= 

18 fans in Push/Pull with Indirect PWM control









Something which was not so easy to achieve before without Aquaro or similar.

.


----------



## bond32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *schoolofmonkey*
> 
> Ok done.
> Well I'm happy to report that my Fan Hub is plugged into my Chassis 1 fan port running off PWM perfectly.
> When I get the Classified's back plate, I'll attach a Thermal sensor to it to adjust the PWM fan speed, but as it stands now this case with PWM running off CPU temps knocked a full 10c off the GPU temps.
> There is 2 fans as intake at the bottom, as I remove the top fan due to putting the RAD up there.
> 
> I did plug in the molex just for additional power for the fans, the male molex threw me when I was plugging everything in, but I soon worked it out.
> The internal shroud that hides the cables, doesn't fit with the GTX780ti Classified, card is too big.
> When I opened the box my jaw dropped at the shear size of this case, the wife let a *** go too..lol
> 
> http://s1294.photobucket.com/user/schoolofmonkey2/media/20140718_153023_zps254815d6.jpg.html


That chassis header is purely voltage control. See the picture I posted. Took it straight from the manualof your board. If you plugged in power to the hub then the fans are running at 100%


----------



## Goon31

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> Little update on my progress... Still waiting on the following :
> Koolance D5 pump top with reservoir
> Koolance 380i cpu block
> 4xSwiftech helix pwm fans
> 2xKoolance 290x gpu blocks
> 1 additional pwm fan hub
> 6xfan splitters
> 
> And yes, I'm fitting 1080 mm of rad space inside the Pro, which includes a 360 monsta in push pull. Can it be done? Let's find out...


Nice. Thinking of using some red cables myself. Where did you get those please?


----------



## wikoster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Yeah I'm normally not too thrilled by a bay res but I am going to give that one a try.


The real question is... will the bay res and case have matching colors? I always hate those moments when you install a new bay component and the two blacks are shades different. GAH these first world problems haunt me!!


----------



## Dorito Bandit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *koniu777*
> 
> Mine came in from Newegg, the window has some minor scratches on the inside from the accessory box flying around during shipping, should look like new after I polish that thing.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk


Welcome to the party, pal! That's one sweet looking case!







So far, what are your thoughts about it?

Mine also came with a scratched up window on the inside. The little accessory tool box had came undone and had banged up against it. I also ordered mine from Newegg and posted a review there and mentioned about the scratched window. I contacted Phanteks about this and they responded within 24hrs. I got my replacement window a couple weeks later, as they were out of stock at that time.


----------



## bond32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Goon31*
> 
> Nice. Thinking of using some red cables myself. Where did you get those please?


http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KVLCWKY/ref=oh_details_o03_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Goon31*
> 
> Nice. Thinking of using some red cables myself. Where did you get those please?


Those are EVGA sleeved cables you can get them in 4 colors and you can get kits for the EVGA SuperNova G1/G2 and P2, they will NOT fit any other PSU.


----------



## Goon31

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KVLCWKY/ref=oh_details_o03_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


Thanks









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> Those are EVGA sleeved cables you can get them in 4 colors and you can get kits for the EVGA SuperNova G1/G2 and P2, they will NOT fit any other PSU.


I have a EVGA SuperNova G2, that's why I asked.


----------



## Rankre

I've got a question about the PWM hubs on the Pro. How does it work if I've got different diameter fans connected to the same hub? As I understand it, the first fan slot on the hub is the one that the hub reads the RPM from, and adjusts the rest of the hub's fans' RPMs according to the first fan. If I got both 200mm and 140mm and 120mm fans attached to the same PWM hub and I attach it to the CPU Fan1 header on my mobo, how will a 140mm fan being placed in slot 1 (as opposed to a 200mm fan in slot 1) affect the rest of the fans' RPMs if at all? Sorry this sounds convoluted but is this a concern at all? I'm worried if I got a 2000 max RPM 1400mm fan in slot 1, it'll cause the 120mm or 200mm fans in the other slots to either have higher RPMs or lower RPMs than I want.

EDIT - clarification


----------



## brian-phanteks

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rankre*
> 
> I've got a question about the PWM hubs on the Pro. How does it work if I've got different diameter fans connected to the same hub? As I understand it, the first fan slot on the hub is the one that the hub reads the RPM from, and adjusts the rest of the hub's fans' RPMs according to the first fan. If I got both 200mm and 140mm and 120mm fans attached to the same PWM hub and I attach it to the CPU Fan1 header on my mobo, how will a 140mm fan being placed in slot 1 (as opposed to a 200mm fan in slot 1) affect the rest of the fans' RPMs if at all? Sorry this sounds convoluted but is this a concern at all? I'm worried if I got a 2000 max RPM 1400mm fan in slot 1, it'll cause the 120mm or 200mm fans in the other slots to either have higher RPMs or lower RPMs than I want.
> 
> EDIT - clarification


The speed of the rest of the fans will be directly proportional to the speed of the rpm of fan1. For example, If your FAN1 is a 2000rpm fan running at 1800rpm (90%) then the rest of the fans connected will also run at 90%. So 1500rpm fans = 1500*.9 = 1350rpm, 1300rpm fans = 1300*.9 = 1170rpm, and so on.


----------



## RnRollie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wikoster*
> 
> The real question is... will the bay res and case have matching colors? I always hate those moments when you install a new bay component and the two blacks are shades different. GAH these first world problems haunt me!!


That can be avoided by going for a full transparent uv-reactive plexi "repack" type
No problem wiht mismatched colours... it's just ugly


----------



## Rankre

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brian-phanteks*
> 
> The speed of the rest of the fans will be directly proportional to the speed of the rpm of fan1. For example, If your FAN1 is a 2000rpm fan running at 1800rpm (90%) then the rest of the fans connected will also run at 90%. So 1500rpm fans = 1500*.9 = 1350rpm, 1300rpm fans = 1300*.9 = 1170rpm, and so on.


O I see. That is a good thing to know. If I do have the hub attached to the CPU Fan1 slot, can I manually control what RPM the fans run at through the uefi bios or can I only choose to have my fans run if my CPU is above X degrees C? I'm piecing my first PC together and still waiting on some parts, so am curious


----------



## schoolofmonkey

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> That chassis header is purely voltage control. See the picture I posted. Took it straight from the manualof your board. If you plugged in power to the hub then the fans are running at 100%


But they are not running at 100%, they adjust their speed based on what temps the CPU has, or I can attach a thermal sensor and have it adjust to that too, which I will do that when the Classy back plate gets here.

Chassis 1 is where the fan hub is connected, I started HWINFO64 then run AIDA64 to get the base and top fan speed:
http://s1294.photobucket.com/user/schoolofmonkey2/media/fanhub_zps81cf1681.jpg.html

That being said I am still thinking of using my NZXT fan controller to control the 2 bottom fans while gaming.
All the fans don't need to ramp up for that.


----------



## Dorito Bandit

*Enthoo Pro*

Looking through the Enthoo Pro manual, I notice an image for a 200mm fan on top, but there is no number listed in the support column. I wonder if this is an error, or if the Enthoo Pro really doesn't support a 200mm fan at top?



Click for larger version.


----------



## Accursed Entity

*Enthoo Pro*
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dorito Bandit*
> 
> -snip-


I think Lee from PCJunkie showed the small holes for a 200mm fan up there for the Luxe, maybe it's the same for the Pro right?


----------



## Dorito Bandit

*Enthoo Pro*
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Accursed Entity*
> 
> *Enthoo Pro*
> I think Lee from PCJunkie showed the small holes for a 200mm fan up there for the Luxe, maybe it's the same for the Pro right?


Bill Ownen of mnpctech.com also has a video showing where a 200mm fan will mount on top. I totally forgot about that video. So yes, a 200mm fan will mount in top of the Enthoo Pro. The manual scared me so I had to ask to be sure.


----------



## Rankre

Yea, the pro will mount a 200mm on top, thats what I got







That said, anyone know what the Phanteks UFB (updraft floating bearing/balance) for their fans actually is? FrostyTech said it was a sleeve bearing in disguise, but they didn't cite anything. If it is sleeve, I'm gonna be sad, cause I got the stock 200mm mounted horizontally on top. :/


----------



## fateswarm

Where is the system temperature sensor usually located? I asked at my m/b's support thread but nobody seems to know. I'm interested because I have a discrete GPU and I suspect CPU temperature is not a great indicator for the main system fan since it often runs very cool on games (while GPU is hot).


----------



## schoolofmonkey

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fateswarm*
> 
> Where is the system temperature sensor usually located? I asked at my m/b's support thread but nobody seems to know. I'm interested because I have a discrete GPU and I suspect CPU temperature is not a great indicator for the main system fan since it often runs very cool on games (while GPU is hot).


You actually have to buy a Thermal sensor and attach it to the motherboards connector, its 2 pins.
It looks like the MB in your profile (GA-Z97X-Gaming 7) doesn't have the temp sensor connector.

I tried exactly what you were wanting to do, but I found you actually had to stick the sensor into the heat sink fins, and even then they would go over 45c, kinda stops the fans from ramping up anyway.
The GPU internal temps maybe 70+, but the exhausted air isn't.









I'm going to try my NZXT Sentry 3 to control the 2 bottom intake fans while gaming, so I can spin them up higher allowing the card to get more cool air.


----------



## RnRollie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fateswarm*
> 
> Where is the system temperature sensor usually located? I asked at my m/b's support thread but nobody seems to know. I'm interested because I have a discrete GPU and I suspect CPU temperature is not a great indicator for the main system fan since it often runs very cool on games (while GPU is hot).


God only knows.. they can stick them near PCH, near VRM, basically anywhere on the board. CPU_ID can probably identifiy it and then you look the MB over with a magnifying glass till you find it...









Although it escapes me why you want to know...

Discrete GPU's also come with a fan and their own temp sensor & fan control.

While GPU's may run hotter as CPU in game, they tend to "drag" the CPU temps upwards if they dump too much hot air into the case. If it is a stock/reference GPU, at least the design with squirrel fan dumps most of it outside the case (at the cost of noise).

So, its just a matter to always have "enough" air going through the case, even if the "dynamic" ramp is temperature based. Just dont set the fans to "stop". Minimum base for any ramp is probably 30% @ <45°C (CPU).

If push comes to shove, you can always split the PWM signal from the GPU to "drive" casefans.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *schoolofmonkey*
> 
> But they are not running at 100%, they adjust their speed based on what temps the CPU has, or I can attach a thermal sensor and have it adjust to that too, which I will do that when the Classy back plate gets here.
> 
> Chassis 1 is where the fan hub is connected, I started HWINFO64 then run AIDA64 to get the base and top fan speed:
> http://s1294.photobucket.com/user/schoolofmonkey2/media/fanhub_zps81cf1681.jpg.html
> 
> That being said I am still thinking of using my NZXT fan controller to control the 2 bottom fans while gaming.
> All the fans don't need to ramp up for that.


I'm assuming you want the bottom fans to ramp up with GPU load / heat? If your GPU uses PWM control you could use it to control a 2nd fan hub. First link in sig explains how to connect to GPU fan header .. plug PWM fan hub into adapter / splitter and case fans into PWM fan hub.


----------



## schoolofmonkey

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> I'm assuming you want the bottom fans to ramp up with GPU load / heat? If your GPU uses PWM control you could use it to control a 2nd fan hub. First link in sig explains how to connect to GPU fan header .. plug PWM fan hub into adapter / splitter and case fans into PWM fan hub.


Awesome, that is exactly what I'm wanting to do, the 2 bottom intakes blow directly onto the GPU, they just don't ramp up due to the CPU temps not getting very high,
and you don't want all case fans blowing at the same speeds if you set the PWM to run off VRM temps.
The Classy I'm guessing uses PWM.

Thanks..


----------



## fateswarm

If nobody knows I suspect the system sensor is probably somewhere neutral, i.e. not on the pch, not near the vrms or anything like that. This is because it appears to resemble what you would feel if you are randomly inside the case. It starts from +2C ambient here and it very slowly creeps up under load.

I guess it's perfect for its job ("ambient box temp") though one could tweak it.

A custom algo of the likes of "0.5*GPU+0.5*CPU" might be cool.

Unless it already does that or something like that.


----------



## EdForce1

I'm thinking of putting a 140mm fan in the top, should i install it towards the back, middle or front? Running standard fan configuration.


----------



## Velict

Can the bottom of the Enthoo Primo fit a 480 monsta in push pull with a single hard drive cage attached to the top?


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Or
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Velict*
> 
> Can the bottom of the Enthoo Primo fit a 480 monsta in push pull with a single hard drive cage attached to the top?


Yes, a 480 monsta will fit in the bottom in push pull and still keep the top HDD cage in place.

From the FAQs in the first post (courtesy of Jesse at TheModZoo)
Quote:


> *Can I fit a fat Monsta radiator in push pull with some fan shrouds, and keep the top HDD cage?*
> - Yes, the bottom of the case offers almost 160mm of space before you will hit the bottom of the HDD cage.


Or you can fit a 360 monsta in the bottom and there's just enough room to keep both HDD cages.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EdForce1*
> 
> I'm thinking of putting a 140mm fan in the top, should i install it towards the back, middle or front? Running standard fan configuration.


In the top of what?

First line of post should be case or component in question:

Enthoo Primo

Enthoo Pro

Enthoo Luxe

PWM fan hub

Than proceed to ask or say whatever about it.


----------



## fateswarm

I had to use an nh-d15 so I used it towards the back to have flow at the entry of the cooler's supply of air.


----------



## Velict

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Or
> Yes, a 480 monsta will fit in the bottom in push pull and still keep the top HDD cage in place.
> 
> From the FAQs in the first post (courtesy of Jesse at TheModZoo)
> Or you can fit a 360 monsta in the bottom and there's just enough room to keep both HDD cages.


Hell yes! I was looking for Jesse's website recently! Thank you!


----------



## EdForce1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> In the top of what?
> 
> First line of post should be case or component in question:
> 
> Enthoo Primo
> 
> Enthoo Pro
> 
> Enthoo Luxe
> 
> PWM fan hub
> 
> Than proceed to ask or say whatever about it.


Sorry for being unclear








I have the Enthoo Pro and i want to install the fan in the top panel, but is it recomended to put it towards the back of the case or front? I'm guessing it's going to be hotter towards the exhaust at the back, so would make sense to put it there yes?


----------



## bond32

I cannot for the life of me get any sort of PWM control with the fan hub(s) to work. Got my second hub in and it is acting just like the first one, which makes me think there is an issue with my board.

Connecting all AP-15's to a fan hub, sending a PWM signal to the hub, within the bios the fans run at 100%-90%. When I get to windows and use the fan expert 2 software, they read the AP-15's fan RPM to be 1350-1850, so any sort of control is only within that range.

Voltage control, I am still testing. Now that I have two hubs, I wanted to connect them both to the two "CPU_FAN and CPU_OPT" headers which are the only headers on these ASUS boards that actually send a PWM signal (despite what some of you may think).

Another test, connecting 3 AP-15's to one fan hub connected to the CPU_FAN, then the stock phanteks 140 and 200mm fans to the second fan hub connected to the CPU_OPT header, now the software thinks the max fan speed is 885 RPM. What the hell is going on with this stuff??

I have reinstalled drivers, windows, and the bios on the board. Perhaps I will roll back to a previous bios.

This is the ASUS maximus vi extreme.


----------



## Dorito Bandit

bond32,

have you connected the SATA power cable to power the hub? Just asking.

Also, my ASUS Z87 Pro manual states that ONLY the CPU_FAN connector and CHA_FAN connectors support the Fan Xpert 2 software, no mention of the CPU_OPT connector. I would think this would be the same for your board, but I am only guessing.


----------



## bond32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dorito Bandit*
> 
> bond32,
> 
> have you connected the SATA power cable to power the hub? Just asking.
> 
> Also, my ASUS Z87 Pro manual states that ONLY the CPU_FAN connector and CHA_FAN connectors support the Fan Xpert 2 software, no mention of the CPU_OPT connector. I would think this would be the same for your board, but I am only guessing.


Yeah, I think you are correct. After running the fan tuning, I had at one test connected the AP-15's to the CPU_OPT and they were running at full speed. So why the heck does the manual state the CPU_OPT has PWM capability....

Yes I connected the sata power cable. It is connected now, and I can tell the fans are running around 80% (idle). Basically, the problem is something to do with the range of control. I believe my board is sending a pwm signal and the hub(s) are working as intended, however that signal is just a tiny range between 70-100%. Anything outside that range the fans go to 0. Perhaps my board is to blame, not sure. But I have some true PWM fans coming in next week so I will determine then if it's the board or what.


----------



## Dorito Bandit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> Perhaps my board is to blame, not sure. But I have some true PWM fans coming in next week so I will determine then if it's the board or what.


I was going to ask you to try the PWM fans by themselves connected to the mobo. When the PWM fans come in do give this a try and let us know how it goes.

Also, when I first got the Enthoo Pro, I hooked the PWM Hub to the CPU_OPT header (I didn't hook up the SATA power cable) but the fans ran only at one speed and I couldn't even see them through the Fan Xpert 2 software, or even the BIOS. I never tried using the hub again as I felt uncomfortable about plugging the hub into the CPU_FAN header where my heatsink is plugged in to.


----------



## SteelArt

Here is my temporary build in Enthoo Primo White (no rigid tubes yet, no white bitspower fittings and adapters, not all cables are sleeved, no second graphic card and no Asus Maximus VII Formula







). 9 fans connected to PWM hub and works just perfect. When CPU temperature rising all fans starting to work faster.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

CPU_OPT is a mirror of the CPU_FAN header. It's not capable of being controlled separately. It's supposed to do whatever you have the CPU_FAN set to do.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> Yeah, I think you are correct. After running the fan tuning, I had at one test connected the AP-15's to the CPU_OPT and they were running at full speed. So why the heck does the manual state the CPU_OPT has PWM capability....
> 
> Yes I connected the sata power cable. It is connected now, and I can tell the fans are running around 80% (idle). Basically, the problem is something to do with the range of control. I believe my board is sending a pwm signal and the hub(s) are working as intended, however that signal is just a tiny range between 70-100%. Anything outside that range the fans go to 0. Perhaps my board is to blame, not sure. But I have some true PWM fans coming in next week so I will determine then if it's the board or what.


I am guessing you can not use the fan tuning with PWM controlled fan hub attached. Try running setup fan speed curve with just the fan on CPU fan header, than put the hub in.

Testing with a PWM fan on a PWM header to see if it is really PWM is best done using 12v power from PSU. Otherwise there is not easy way of knowing if fan is being PWM controlled or using variable voltage to change fan speed.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> CPU_OPT is a mirror of the CPU_FAN header. It's not capable of being controlled separately. It's supposed to do whatever you have the CPU_FAN set to do.


Mirror or same?








Most CPU_OPT fan headers are simply a Y-splitter on motherboard PCB.


----------



## Rankre

So if I'm going to have a aftermarket CPU cooler (212 EVO) and I want to plug that into the CPU_Fan slot in my asrock z97 extreme4, where should I plug the fan hub for my Enthoo Pro? Should I ditch the fan hub? I don't know if I trust the hub enough to plug my 212 evo fan into it.


----------



## Dorito Bandit

*Enthoo Pro*

*Window Replacement*

Just replaced my large side window with the replacement Phanteks sent me. The replacement window is made of the same material and tinting, but appears to be much more clearer than the one I just removed. I got the replacement window due to the one that came with the case being scratched all up by the little accessory tool box that had came undone. Which seems to be happening a lot. Also, the holding "tabs' that secure the window in place are are extremely thin and feel as if they would easily snap off if you had to replace a window 2 or 3 times. So use extreme caution when replacing your window should you have to do so. Just a heads up.


----------



## Rankre

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dorito Bandit*
> 
> *Enthoo Pro*
> 
> *Window Replacement*
> 
> Just replaced my large side window with the replacement Phanteks sent me. The replacement window is made of the same material and tinting, but appears to be much more clearer than the one I just removed. I got the replacement window due to the one that came with the case being scratched all up by the little accessory tool box that had came undone. Which seems to be happening a lot. Also, the holding "tabs' that secure the window in place are are extremely thin and feel as if they would easily snap off if you had to replace a window 2 or 3 times. So use extreme caution when replacing your window should you have to do so. Just a heads up.


Same thing happened to me and I'm waiting for my replacement window to ship. So its not that blue-hue tinted like the stock window? If it is clearer, might be better, since with the stock, I couldn't really see my components well







If only phanteks didn't use that cardboard box to hold their accessories, that or also included a plastic layer of protection on the inside of the window... It scratched up the window in multiple places.


----------



## Dorito Bandit

My window has a darkish tint, even the replacement window. And yes, I can see much better inside my case with this replacement window. The window that came with the case appears slightly blurry. Not sure if this is normal or just with the case I purchased. What ever the reason, my replacement window looks much better. Let us know how yours turns out.


----------



## bond32

Just got these two monsta rads in and I am not even using them lol. Trying to decide what I want to do... Really need to just buy the primo, the pro isn't cutting it. Think I might mount the monsta 360 up top on the outside and either cut the plastic grid on the top piece or just leave the top off. Also might mount the monsta 240 on the back of the case, just because.

These monsta rads are huge...


----------



## schoolofmonkey

Last night I started hearing the grinding sound from one of the lower fans.
Seems it just for no reason couldn't support the fan blades while hanging and they dropped a little hitting the metal mount.
There's a lot of in and out movement of the fan blades, and heaps of vibration
But I did manage to stop the fan hitting the mount, it just sounds like an idling motor now..

Might have to swap them out for something else, all the Phantek fans move in and out a little, where to Noctua and Corsair ones I have here don't.

Oh and the other issue I am having is the front/top USB will only run a 2.5" external at usb 2 speeds even though its connected to the motherboard USB 3 port.
A USB 3 stick runs at full speed.


----------



## owcraftsman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rankre*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Dorito Bandit*
> 
> *Enthoo Pro*
> 
> *Window Replacement*
> 
> Just replaced my large side window with the replacement Phanteks sent me. The replacement window is made of the same material and tinting, but appears to be much more clearer than the one I just removed. I got the replacement window due to the one that came with the case being scratched all up by the little accessory tool box that had came undone. Which seems to be happening a lot. Also, the holding "tabs' that secure the window in place are are extremely thin and feel as if they would easily snap off if you had to replace a window 2 or 3 times. So use extreme caution when replacing your window should you have to do so. Just a heads up.
> 
> 
> 
> Same thing happened to me and I'm waiting for my replacement window to ship. So its not that blue-hue tinted like the stock window? If it is clearer, might be better, since with the stock, I couldn't really see my components well
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If only phanteks didn't use that cardboard box to hold their accessories, that or also included a plastic layer of protection on the inside of the window... It scratched up the window in multiple places.
Click to expand...

Dayum maybe there's hope yet. I've been waiting for nearly a year for replacement glass and actually just ordered, this week, some polycarbonate to do it my self.


----------



## Dorito Bandit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *owcraftsman*
> 
> Dayum maybe there's hope yet. I've been waiting for nearly a year for replacement glass and actually just ordered, this week, some polycarbonate to do it my self.


Before making your own, take a good hard look at how your window is designed. There is a small groove around the outer edge of it. This is what allows the window to set up flush against the inside of the side panel.


----------



## fateswarm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> I cannot for the life of me get any sort of PWM control with the fan hub(s) to work. Got my second hub in and it is acting just like the first one, which makes me think there is an issue with my board.
> 
> Connecting all AP-15's to a fan hub, sending a PWM signal to the hub, within the bios the fans run at 100%-90%. When I get to windows and use the fan expert 2 software, they read the AP-15's fan RPM to be 1350-1850, so any sort of control is only within that range.
> 
> Voltage control, I am still testing. Now that I have two hubs, I wanted to connect them both to the two "CPU_FAN and CPU_OPT" headers which are the only headers on these ASUS boards that actually send a PWM signal (despite what some of you may think).
> 
> Another test, connecting 3 AP-15's to one fan hub connected to the CPU_FAN, then the stock phanteks 140 and 200mm fans to the second fan hub connected to the CPU_OPT header, now the software thinks the max fan speed is 885 RPM. What the hell is going on with this stuff??
> 
> I have reinstalled drivers, windows, and the bios on the board. Perhaps I will roll back to a previous bios.
> 
> This is the ASUS maximus vi extreme.


My gigabyte has dc control on cpu_opt too. Not saying it's what it does to you. Just throwing the idea out there.


----------



## RnRollie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> Just got these two monsta rads in and I am not even using them lol. Trying to decide what I want to do... Really need to just buy the primo, the pro isn't cutting it. Think I might mount the monsta 360 up top on the outside and either cut the plastic grid on the top piece or just leave the top off. Also might mount the monsta 240 on the back of the case, just because.
> 
> These monsta rads are huge...


Just make a pedestal for your case and mount the rads (vertically) in that pedestal








It raises teh case off the floor "a bit"

Of course, if you have the case ON your desk, use a couple of brackets to hang the rads under the desk. No fiddling with fittings & tubing in tight spaces, no intricate loop routing... just a pair of hoses exiting the case looping under the desk..... and you'll have a gentle (warm) breeze blowing on your knees and/or nether parts


----------



## RnRollie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *schoolofmonkey*
> 
> Last night I started hearing the grinding sound from one of the lower fans.
> Seems it just for no reason couldn't support the fan blades while hanging and they dropped a little hitting the metal mount.
> There's a lot of in and out movement of the fan blades, and heaps of vibration
> But I did manage to stop the fan hitting the mount, it just sounds like an idling motor now..
> 
> Might have to swap them out for something else, all the Phantek fans move in and out a little, where to Noctua and Corsair ones I have here don't.
> 
> Oh and the other issue I am having is the front/top USB will only run a 2.5" external at usb 2 speeds even though its connected to the motherboard USB 3 port.
> A USB 3 stick runs at full speed.


This has nothing to do with the front USB ports, this has probably a lot to do with most external 2.5" drives being only 5400 RPM and using an USB-to-SATA2 controller circuit

SATA2 is slower as USB3 and even if were a SATA3 then because of the low spin read and overhead it would probably still not resemble/reach full USB3 or full SATA3 speed

If you want hi-speed external drives, shell out the $$$ for SAS/Infiniband/thunderbolt

Feel free to not believe me, but :

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Serial_ATA#Comparison_to_other_interfaces
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_device_bit_rates#Storage


----------



## bond32

It would appear that the fan xpert software does not seem to know the max rpm speeds when using the phanteks hubs. I have both hubs connected to the cpu headers, and attempting to use voltage control on them the max fan speed it senses is 900 rpm for AP-15's. I'm about to give up on these hubs and just use the nzxt grid, connect all 8 to it and if it kills the board I don't even care anymore.


----------



## RnRollie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> It would appear that the fan xpert software does not seem to know the max rpm speeds when using the phanteks hubs. I have both hubs connected to the cpu headers, and attempting to use voltage control on them the max fan speed it senses is 900 rpm for AP-15's. I'm about to give up on these hubs and just use the nzxt grid, connect all 8 to it and if it kills the board I don't even care anymore.


fan expert is probably not "smart" enough to work with something that "reports back" slightly different as an ordinairy tachometer that is expected.

In a way there are similarities with the issues one can have with flowmeters
The "cheap" onse are fairly simple, they report the actual RPM of the little "spinner" ... this however is in most cases very very low something like 73 RPM for example. Most motherboards see this a reason to sound the alert: "surely a fan spinning that slow must have a problem"
Some of the "advanced" flowmeters use a different system of measuring... connecting them directly would result in seeing very high RPMs all over the place.. again something the MB will frown upon.









To solve some of these problems KOOLANCE sells a frequency adaptor to multiply the signal with a factor so the MB header "sees" something which behaves like a fan.
http://koolance.com/adt-fm03-flow-meter-frequency-adapter

Not saying this is your solution! Its just some background information.

Whatever the Phanteks fan hub is reporting back, fanxpert is not happy with it. ITs probably not a good idea to let the fanXpert bios/soft try to solve the hi-low for anything else as a real fan attached. Its probably too stupid, stupid as only smart circuitery can be. Stupid is probably not the right word.. stubborn is probably more correct.


----------



## schoolofmonkey

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RnRollie*
> 
> This has nothing to do with the front USB ports, this has probably a lot to do with most external 2.5" drives being only 5400 RPM and using an USB-to-SATA2 controller circuit
> 
> SATA2 is slower as USB3 and even if were a SATA3 then because of the low spin read and overhead it would probably still not resemble/reach full USB3 or full SATA3 speed
> 
> If you want hi-speed external drives, shell out the $$$ for SAS/Infiniband/thunderbolt


Its not that I don't believe you, its just that anything connected to the front panel is dropping connection now.
Even my mobile phone is now dropping connection, yet the USB ports on the rear of the motherboard are working perfectly.
I tested the motherboard ports with a rear PCI usb extender and they are working fine too.

Unless there is a front panel power connector, I don't know why its not working properly.


----------



## Velict

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RnRollie*
> 
> *Fan Hub*
> 
> One of the benefits of the Fan Hub:
> +  +  +
> 
> =
> 
> 18 fans in Push/Pull with Indirect PWM control
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Something which was not so easy to achieve before without Aquaro or similar.
> 
> .


http://www.techpowerup.com/forums/threads/so-you-want-pwm-control-of-your-3-pin-fan.115752/page-3#post-3137889
A project i'm working on over at techpowerup. lazzer408 is a cool dude. Same concept, except home made. If you have more fans, use a higher amperage rated mosfet. Also, i'd reccomend using a variable resistor. It'll allow for a much lower duty cycle. ORRRRRRRRRR you can use the second circuit Lazzer408 made.

Pros for building it yourself:
A: We're modders
B: Why the EFFFF would you spend twice the amount of money on some "swag" that's going to be hid behind your side panel?
C: You choose the quality of what you make

Cons:
Go away.


----------



## RnRollie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *schoolofmonkey*
> 
> Its not that I don't believe you, its just that anything connected to the front panel is dropping connection now.
> Even my mobile phone is now dropping connection, yet the USB ports on the rear of the motherboard are working perfectly.
> I tested the motherboard ports with a rear PCI usb extender and they are working fine too.
> 
> Unless there is a front panel power connector, I don't know why its not working properly.


hmmm
since its doubtfull the length of the cable exceeds the max lenght specs...









Either a common ground or short problem
OR your MB USB drivers are misbehaving
OR Windows has started blacklisting the ports.
i've got a terratec thingie which only works in ONE port anymore, it has been banned on all others, and i dont feel like doing a complete fresh windows install yet or even go digging deep into the registry to find then all. One of these days its gonna get banned on that last port also... but its not that important, the free-on-air i get consists mostly of CSI & PoliceCameraAction re-runs









Since Vista, Windows is very fussy about ports "not behaving": go off the rails one too many times and the device is "banned" from using that port. It's actually Intels fault, with the introduction of SB they also fiddled with the timings and compromised the downward compatibility. In theory USB 3 & USB 2 are USB 1.1 compatible, but in reality, since SB the USB port floods the the USB device with requests at such a rate that the device just cannot respond to all in time. So ack drops error condition occurs. Windows "sees" this happening and goes "bad boy" and blacklists for not adhering to standards/being faulty. You should ask the guys at Aquacomputer about it... they've got all the juicy details. They had to dig deep when their old aquaro which used an USB 1.1 port stopped working in "new" Intel SB based boards running Vista.

Meanwhile:
-Fysical inspection of wire, pcb for shorts/breaks
-Check what 3th party USB driver software might be installed. example AsROCK XFAST USB
-Check Windows Device Manager to see what USBs are reported and to uncheck the "Allow the computer to turn off this device" box in the USB hub drivers Power Management.
-Check MB site for updated bios/drivers
-IF your MB uses an ETRON USB chip, it might be necessairy to get a updated driver from Etron, most MB makers are hopelessy behind in updating that kind of stuff
-there is a little soft called USBDeview , which allows peeking & poking into the USB hubs/devices. see if it reports any device misbehaving or being banned. If the maker's website is still up, there is a lot of information about USB "behaviour"

Anyways, just suggestions


----------



## schoolofmonkey

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RnRollie*
> 
> Anyways, just suggestions


Any suggestions are welcome mate.
I was just strange, I don't use the top ports much as this monster is on my desk,
but since disconnecting the front panel and connecting the PCI usb 2 extender the USB ports are back to normal.
Not to say the stupid WD My Passport drive wasn't causing issues, plug it into a USB 3 port on any of my machines here and it will lock the USB bus completely.
It was just when everything stopped working on the front panel is when I figured something was wrong, could of been the stupid WD drive I plugged into it that caused it too.

I've seen it before on other machines, no fuss here, everything else is cool, besides the stock fans vibrating when mounted down the bottom but that was fixed with 2 Noctua black Industrial PWM fans..lol


----------



## anteante

Today i got the NZXT H440 case but i´m planning to go for the Enthoo Pro and watercooling. Was thinking of going with one 420 radiator in top and a 280 in front but are there any good 140 fans?
Have been looking on the Phobya E-loop Bionic from aquatuning.se. Or is it better to go with a 360 + 240 radiator in case of bigger selection of 120mm fans?

http://www.aquatuning.se/vattenkylning/flaekt-vibrationsdaempare/15211/phobya-nb-eloop-1600rpm-bionic-fan-120x120x25mm

Whats the max thickness of a radiator in the top + 25mm fan?


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *anteante*
> 
> Today i got the NZXT H440 case but i´m planning to go for the Enthoo Pro and watercooling. Was thinking of going with one 420 radiator in top and a 280 in front but are there any good 140 fans?
> Have been looking on the Phobya E-loop Bionic from aquatuning.se. Or is it better to go with a 360 + 240 radiator in case of bigger selection of 120mm fans?
> 
> http://www.aquatuning.se/vattenkylning/flaekt-vibrationsdaempare/15211/phobya-nb-eloop-1600rpm-bionic-fan-120x120x25mm
> 
> Whats the max thickness of a radiator in the top + 25mm fan?


I personally prefer 120mm rads/fans, but the Phanteks 140mm fans are one of the most popular 140mm rad fans these days. Cougar Vortex also reportedly perform quite well.

There is 65mm of clearance from the top of the mobo to the top of the case in the Pro, so there's really only room for a 30mm rad + 25mm fans. I'm not sure anyone has managed to fit a 45mm rad up there.

It looks like with the Luxe you would be able to have a set of fans on top of the case under the filter so could fit a 30mm in push-pull or a 45mm or 60mm in push or pull.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> It would appear that the fan xpert software does not seem to know the max rpm speeds when using the phanteks hubs. I have both hubs connected to the cpu headers, and attempting to use voltage control on them the max fan speed it senses is 900 rpm for AP-15's. I'm about to give up on these hubs and just use the nzxt grid, connect all 8 to it and if it kills the board I don't even care anymore.


Have you tried running Fan Xpert tuning without the PWM hub .. just a single PWM fan first, then install the PWM hub with fans?
Use a PWM fan of same / similar rpm as one you use on PWM hub to get similar speeds with hub installed.

Not sure it will work, but there is a good possibility it will.


----------



## MrBazB

Hey there members of the Phanteks Enthoo Series Club, I just had a few questions about gpu compatibility with the reservoir bracket and a watercooled r9 290.
I currently have the case and am just making sure the parts I want will fit where i want them to fit.
Currently I have an XFX R9 290 Double Dissipation Black Edition, which currently won't allow for installation of the bracket, but from observation this would appear to be from the heatsink which adds about 10mm onto the cards length, So just a question to those who have this card, once watercooled with this waterblock http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=28255 , will i be able to have the reservoirbracket installed as well as having a reservoir installed on the bracket http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=24783

Thanks for any help you can provide me with


----------



## bond32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Have you tried running Fan Xpert tuning without the PWM hub .. just a single PWM fan first, then install the PWM hub with fans?
> Use a PWM fan of same / similar rpm as one you use on PWM hub to get similar speeds with hub installed.
> 
> Not sure it will work, but there is a good possibility it will.


I actually don't own any pwm fans, but I ordered 4 swiftech helix fans that are pwm. Should be in this week.

Anyway, might just end out using either the nzxt grid or sentry mix 2.

Decided to put the monsta 360 up top and the 240 up front. Actually works well, pics:


----------



## Perfect_Chaos

Anyone know if it's possible to mount a 240mm rad at the front with the pump bracket installed in the bottom along with a D5 pump on it? In the Pro.


----------



## Dorito Bandit

*Damn bond32!* You need a few more cables in your system!


----------



## bond32

LOL, I know it looks gross but it's still temporary. Have coming in this week:

Koolance 380i cpu block
2xKoolance R9 290X GPU Blocks
Koolance D5 pump top w/screw on reservoir
4xSwiftech Helix PWM fans

So I will still have to re-do quite a bit. Haven't quite decided where I will put the pump


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Phanteks manual is fine. It's motherboard manufacturers and manuals that do not tell us what if any headers are "True" PWM.







[/quote]
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mako0312*
> 
> So is using the PWM hub the way to control fans if I want to watercool?


That's what I am doing.

a) Curve No. 1 (Pumps)
CPU_1 (PWM) => Pump No. 1
CPU_2 (PWM) => Pump No. 2

b) Curve No. 2 (Case Fans )
CHA_1 (DC) => Fan PCB_1 => (6) Fans

c) Curve No. 3 (Top Radiator)
CHA_2 (DC) => Fan PCB_2 => (6) Push / Pull Fans on XT45-420

d) Curve No. 4 (Bottom Radiator)
CHA_3 (DC) => Fan PCB_3 => (4) Push / Pull Fans on UT60-420

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *schoolofmonkey*
> 
> No I replaced the Noctua NF-A14 PWM 1500rpm with the Noctua NF-A14 Industrial PPC 140mm 2000RPM PWM, I've found them quieter and temps dropped by about 3 - 4c.
> Sound weird, but they are made from a different lighter material.
> 
> Not too sure what to do with the PWM CPU headers, I can't run 2 of the Noctua's off 1 CPU header, and the CPU_OPT connector will control the case fans in the same was as the H110 fans.
> Couldn't hurt to try on of the other fan headers to start with, I can always just bypass the fan hub for the NZXT Sentry 3 fan controller....lol..


The Phanteks fans are quieter than the 1500 rpm Nocs... and yes it is weird that the 2000 rpm fans are quieter..... I'd expect the air moving thru the rads to make more noise than the fan itself.

Why can't ya ruin 2 fans off one header ? The hub will do that as would a cable splitter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PureBlackFire*
> 
> so thr Pro definitely fit big air coolers, but the Luxe won't? also, what does he mean by "No 3.5" bay"?


I took that to mean "no external 3.5" bay"....as in accessible from front panel. Some peeps like to throw a card reader for example in there.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PureBlackFire*
> 
> so thr Pro definitely fit big air coolers, but the Luxe won't? also, what does he mean by "No 3.5" bay"?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rpjkw11*
> 
> The one thing I do like about the Luxe and rather dislike about the Primo is the Luxe does NOT have a door covering the drive bays. I hate doors! One of the hinges on an old case broke and it was always a huge pain in the a** whenever I had to open it (which was often). I've had to grudgingly accept doors because it seems the cases I like mostly have 'em, including the Primo. At least with the Primo I don't have to mess with the door when I turn on the rig. Still, it's nice to see a well designed and built case that has done away with "the door".
> 
> End of rant!


I like the idea of having a door .... but w/ options:

1. Have door panel option with tinted cover so I could see my temps from the Reeven Six Eyes.
2. Have door panel option with perforated grille for extra cooling
3. Have door panel option where I could take it off.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chrisnyc75*
> 
> IMHO, it's almost unfair to compare Phanteks cases to Corsair. I've worked with a lot of Corsair cases, and while they are well designed, they're not always particularly well built. The quality of construction, attention to detail, and "finishing touches" on Phanteks cases is just another level. More on par with Caselabs, but priced closer to Corsair. Win-win.


I liked the 500R as my g to case for those on a budget but was really drop off for the 400R and below..... the 750D is OK....it works. Both were reasonable choices i thouggt until the Enthoo series came along ..... Frankly I dunno how Phanteks is able to build these cases and sell them at these prices.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *owcraftsman*
> 
> Ordered my extra PWM Hub today from phanteksusa.com Glad accessories are finally in stock. Thanks to whom ever mentioned the availability in a previous post here which made me go look.
> 
> While I was there I noticed the 1m & 2m rgb led strips but they say for the luxe only. Seems I recall that the Primo has a connector for additional strip as well. Could anyone confirm or deny this?


I imagine Brian sent an e-mail to all those who posted on the subject, that's how I found out.

I posted this in its own thread but ... for thos ehere:

Observations (it arrived):

1. Nice improvement. It's substantially smaller than the other two I have (ones that come with Enthoo Primo)

2. If you mount in the Enthoo Primo on the 3rd built in PCB mounting spot, it interferes with one of the screws holding in the top of the reservoir bracket.

3. The 4 pin cable may be a bit short w/ some MoBo / Case combos.

4. Uses SATA power connector as on Enthoo Pro ... Primo ones used Molex.

5. Mine was missing the Velcro Mounts which I didn't need as I used the screw mounts, but I did get two sets of screws. Got one bag w/ 2 screws and one bag w/ no screws and 2 screws loose.

Then again, wife's been saying I have had a few screws loose for years.


----------



## Screetch82

Hi

I got my shopping basket together. What do u guys think about this build for a 4790k, gigabyte Z97x u5hd mobo and a 780ti

http://www.aquatuning.de/AtsdCartSave/load/AtsdCartSaveKey/9bf5212af8cfea7cd301b23893d190d8

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## JackNaylorPE

[/quote name="Screetch82" url="/t/1418637/official-case-phanteks-club-enthoo-primo-enthoo-luxe-enthoo-pro-lovers-owners/4750#post_22593700"]Hi

I got my shopping basket together. What do u guys think about this build for a 4790k, gigabyte Z97x u5hd mobo and a 780ti

http://www.aquatuning.de/AtsdCartSave/load/AtsdCartSaveKey/9bf5212af8cfea7cd301b23893d190d8
[/quote]

I'd wait for the Asus Maximus VII Formula, (to be released this month).

In some areas.... two 780's ain't much more than a 780 Ti.

The EQ Supremacy has best temps on Haswell ....same for the EK Blocks on GFX cards ..... GPU temps are as much 2C higher but VRM temps are as much as 30C , VRAM temps 12C lower than the competition.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *schoolofmonkey*
> 
> My Enthoo Primo will be delivered today, can't wait, but not looking forward to the transplant from the Corsair Air 540.
> Stupid me ordered it and forgot to get a 8pin CPU power extension, from what I've read you need it, so got to run out and get that today..


I didn't need it.....with the Primo's PSU location it's a shorter run than when PSU is in front bottom (assuming you hide cable behind MoBo).

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> I am going to buy the Phanteks Enthoo Luxe once i got the money for all the parts i need, am going to move from X79 to Z97 instead i just need the money for it all as i hate buying a few parts at a time, anyway i was thinking of throwing away all the Phanteks fans (both the 200mm and the 140mm fans) and replace them with 6x Noctua NF-A14 industrialPPC-2000 fans instead.


The Phanteks fans substantially outperform the Noctua 1500 rpm models in both silentpcreviews and overclockersclub testing. I have my Phanteks fans running at 850 rpm .... With the ability to go to 1/4 speed with the hub / FanXpert2, if I was to change fans, I think I'd go to 900 rpm before I'd go to 1500.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> The included Phanteks fans (except the 200mm) are really good fans. I would have rated them possibly the best 140's you could get. But I also don't know much about the Noctua's yet other than they do have some good looking specs.


The Phanteks 1200 rpm 140mm are superior ..... they run 3C cooler than the Noctua 1500 rpm 140mm ones on CPU cooler which provides at least as demanding a task with the closely spaced fins as a 8 - 12 fpi radiator.

http://www.overclockersclub.com/reviews/phenteks_f140/3.htm

Same conclusion here:

http://www.silentpcreview.com/article1345-page7.html

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *schoolofmonkey*
> 
> Ok done.
> Well I'm happy to report that my Fan Hub is plugged into my Chassis 1 fan port running off PWM perfectly.
> When I get the Classified's back plate, I'll attach a Thermal sensor to it to adjust the PWM fan speed, but as it stands now this case with PWM running off CPU temps knocked a full 10c off the GPU temps.
> There is 2 fans as intake at the bottom, as I remove the top fan due to putting the RAD up there.
> 
> I did plug in the molex just for additional power for the fans, the male molex threw me when I was plugging everything in, but I soon worked it out.
> The internal shroud that hides the cables, doesn't fit with the GTX780ti Classified, card is too big.


If you using chassis header Power cable your fans are running at 100% speed.
http://rog.asus.com/forum/showthread.php?33662-3pin-4pin-PWM-Voltage-Control
Quote:


> Chassis fan headers control in DC mode only - and that will control 4 pin fans but not in PWM mode.


The Asus OPT / CHA heat sensors display temps from remote sensors but did not control anything based upon the readings. On Z87, all fan control on Asus boards is off CPU temp. On Z97, the CHA headers let you choose source in BIOS. However you could use one of these off the GFX card header and accomplish same thing.

http://www.frozencpu.com/cat/l3/g/c279/s1685/list/p1/b195/Gelid_Solutions-Audio_Video_Cables-VGA_Adapters-Page1.html

Yes, the MSI and Asus cards, EVGA SC all work but not the Classy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RnRollie*
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=36_1130_403&products_id=24322


Those Deltas run well up into 44 dbA range..... the 2000 rpm Noctuas break 30 dbA .... the Phanteks are below 20 dbA .... all those numbers are "as advertised". That means the Noc 2000 rpm jobs are more than twice as load as the Phanteks stock 140mm fans and the Delta's more than four as loud.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RnRollie*
> 
> One of the benefits of the Fan Hub:
> 
> 18 fans in Push/Pull with Indirect PWM control
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Something which was not so easy to achieve before without Aquaro or similar..


I woulda said "One of the benefits of two fan hubs"







.... there is a power limit on each hub (11 fans is listed on the product page) and IIRC Brian said 30 watts.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rankre*
> 
> I've got a question about the PWM hubs on the Pro. How does it work if I've got different diameter fans connected to the same hub? As I understand it, the first fan slot on the hub is the one that the hub reads the RPM from, and adjusts the rest of the hub's fans' RPMs according to the first fan. If I got both 200mm and 140mm and 120mm fans attached to the same PWM hub and I attach it to the CPU Fan1 header on my mobo, how will a 140mm fan being placed in slot 1 (as opposed to a 200mm fan in slot 1) affect the rest of the fans' RPMs if at all? Sorry this sounds convoluted but is this a concern at all? I'm worried if I got a 2000 max RPM 1400mm fan in slot 1, it'll cause the 120mm or 200mm fans in the other slots to either have higher RPMs or lower RPMs than I want.
> 
> EDIT - clarification


You can avoid this by putting the 200mm fan on a separate CHA header. Especially if you are using a utility like FanXpert2, I would recommend using all identical fans on each channel. Each fan model will have a different required start up and stall voltage so if ya want maximum range, things will be off a bit.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *schoolofmonkey*
> 
> You actually have to buy a Thermal sensor and attach it to the motherboards connector, its 2 pins.
> It looks like the MB in your profile (GA-Z97X-Gaming 7) doesn't have the temp sensor connector.
> 
> I tried exactly what you were wanting to do, but I found you actually had to stick the sensor into the heat sink fins, and even then they would go over 45c, kinda stops the fans from ramping up anyway.
> The GPU internal temps maybe 70+, but the exhausted air isn't.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm going to try my NZXT Sentry 3 to control the 2 bottom intake fans while gaming, so I can spin them up higher allowing the card to get more cool air.


2 pin thermistor
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/24797/cab-1964/EK_Temperature_Probe_Cable_-_2-Pin_EK_Cable_Temperature_Probe_10k_NTC_100cm.html

But....sandwiching it where it will do any good will affect your block / backplate mounting .... mounting externally gives poor indication of temps .... the Gelid option above will do better. In the end, I found that contrary to my original assumption, speed control on the GPU WBs made very little difference.....really doesn't matter whether my GPUs are at 39C or 44c.


----------



## PureBlackFire

the modding.fr review is very detailed. some pics:





front panel:


----------



## schoolofmonkey

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*


If you using chassis header Power cable your fans are running at 100% speed.
http://rog.asus.com/forum/showthread.php?33662-3pin-4pin-PWM-Voltage-Control
T[/quote]

You all keep saying this, but I'm telling you they are not.
the Phanteks were running at 850rpm, the Noctua's are running at 900rpm they ramp up perfectly under cpu load/temps. (Molex power is connected)
The only reason I'm not using the Phantek fans is they are vibrating like crazy when mounted as bottom intakes, where the Noctua's aren't,
1 stock fan started to rub on the bracket, otherwise they would still be there.

http://s1294.photobucket.com/user/schoolofmonkey2/media/fanhub_zps81cf1681.jpg.html
Chassis 1 is the Fan Hub
Chassis 2 is the H110 Pump
CPU and OPT is the fans for the H110.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> I cannot for the life of me get any sort of PWM control with the fan hub(s) to work. Got my second hub in and it is acting just like the first one, which makes me think there is an issue with my board.
> 
> Connecting all AP-15's to a fan hub, sending a PWM signal to the hub, within the bios the fans run at 100%-90%. When I get to windows and use the fan expert 2 software, they read the AP-15's fan RPM to be 1350-1850, so any sort of control is only within that range.
> 
> Voltage control, I am still testing. Now that I have two hubs, I wanted to connect them both to the two "CPU_FAN and CPU_OPT" headers which are the only headers on these ASUS boards that actually send a PWM signal (despite what some of you may think).
> 
> Another test, connecting 3 AP-15's to one fan hub connected to the CPU_FAN, then the stock phanteks 140 and 200mm fans to the second fan hub connected to the CPU_OPT header, now the software thinks the max fan speed is 885 RPM. What the hell is going on with this stuff??
> 
> I have reinstalled drivers, windows, and the bios on the board. Perhaps I will roll back to a previous bios.
> 
> This is the ASUS maximus vi extreme.


Try this.....

1. Connect the AP-15's to the 1st Hub and that to the CPU_OPT Header.... Just connect 4 or less fans and no power cable.

2. Connect the SP140's to the 2nd Hub and that to the CHA_1 Header.... Just connect 5 or less fans and no power cable.

3. Boot to Windows, open AISuite and go to the FanXpert page.

4. Run the FanXpert2 auto tuning utility. It will test the fans and determine actual capabilities of each fan.

5. The higher the speed of the fans, the more spinning the fans up will lag the test. Try again with just a single fan connected to each FAN 1 port. Connect the rest after the test runs.


----------



## bond32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> Try this.....
> 
> 1. Connect the AP-15's to the 1st Hub and that to the CPU_OPT Header.... Just connect 4 or less fans and no power cable.
> 
> 2. Connect the SP140's to the 2nd Hub and that to the CHA_1 Header.... Just connect 5 or less fans and no power cable.
> 
> 3. Boot to Windows, open AISuite and go to the FanXpert page.
> 
> 4. Run the FanXpert2 auto tuning utility. It will test the fans and determine actual capabilities of each fan.
> 
> 5. The higher the speed of the fans, the more spinning the fans up will lag the test. Try again with just a single fan connected to each FAN 1 port. Connect the rest after the test runs.


I see what you're saying, but I have done this many times now. The fan hubs just simply do not work for me. It could have something to do with this strange connector on the CPU_FAN header but not sure.

Using voltage control with the hub in CPU_OPT and one single ap-15 on the CPU_FAN, the software still finds the max fan speed to be 900 rpm. Which makes me think the CPU_OPT isn't actually just a mirror.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *schoolofmonkey*
> 
> You all keep saying this, but I'm telling you they are not.
> the Phanteks were running at 850rpm, the Noctua's are running at 900rpm they ramp up perfectly under cpu load/temps. (Molex power is connected)
> The only reason I'm not using the Phantek fans is they are vibrating like crazy when mounted as bottom intakes, where the Noctua's aren't,
> 1 stock fan started to rub on the bracket, otherwise they would still be there.
> 
> http://s1294.photobucket.com/user/schoolofmonkey2/media/fanhub_zps81cf1681.jpg.html
> Chassis 1 is the Fan Hub
> Chassis 2 is the H110 Pump
> CPU and OPT is the fans for the H110.


1. Well one Possibility is that ASrock may have used PWM on the Chassis Header ?

2. The fans or on top of the bracket right ?

3. Are these aftermarket Phanteks or fans that came with the chassis that are rubbing ? Does your bracket lay flat on a table ? .... May be warped.

4. If original case fans, do they have the rubber vibration isolators ? .... if not request some from Phanteks.

5. How many fans on each hub .... if less than 6, no need for the power connector .... I have run 8 w/o issue.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> I see what you're saying, but I have done this many times now. The fan hubs just simply do not work for me. It could have something to do with this strange connector on the CPU_FAN header but not sure.
> 
> Using voltage control with the hub in CPU_OPT and one single ap-15 on the CPU_FAN, the software still finds the max fan speed to be 900 rpm. Which makes me think the CPU_OPT isn't actually just a mirror.


You still have to many variables involved which is why I suggested those specific steps.

Some fans have issues with fan controllers.... PWM headers behave differently than DC

I have never saw you say that you used the auto tuning feature to run the test and this is an important step so wanted to confirm that it was done.

I don't know that you don't have BIOS settings overriding the FanXpert2 software. Have you tried "Reset all BIOS Settings to Default" ?

I wanted to rule out any strange behavior of the PWM headers by using a non PWM header.

Trying just one Phanteks Fan on a CHA header and running the auto test / calibration utility would take all of the other variables out of the equation and might help point to a solution.


----------



## bond32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> 1. Well one Possibility is that ASrock may have used PWM on the Chassis Header ?
> 
> 2. The fans or on top of the bracket right ?
> 
> 3. Are these aftermarket Phanteks or fans that came with the chassis that are rubbing ? Does your bracket lay flat on a table ? .... May be warped.
> 
> 4. If original case fans, do they have the rubber vibration isolators ? .... if not request some from Phanteks.
> 
> 5. How many fans on each hub .... if less than 6, no need for the power connector .... I have run 8 w/o issue.


I believe he has the Asus maximus hero z97, which the manual for that board is identical to mine in regards to the fans stating that the only true PWM headers are the CPU_FAN and CPU_OPT.

If he truely is getting any sort of control to the fan hub then it's something strange. I think he connected the 12V supply to the hub which would rule out any sort of voltage control. So there is some sort of signal coming from the board that I don't understand which the hub seems to pick up as a pwm control signal.

Edit: not arguing if schoolofmonkey is actually getting control or not, he has proven his fans are being modulated somehow. I just don't understand how.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

I took it from his siggie which says Asrock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dorito Bandit*
> 
> bond32,
> 
> have you connected the SATA power cable to power the hub? Just asking.
> 
> Also, my ASUS Z87 Pro manual states that ONLY the CPU_FAN connector and CHA_FAN connectors support the Fan Xpert 2 software, no mention of the CPU_OPT connector. I would think this would be the same for your board, but I am only guessing.


Z87 (FanXpert2) is different from Z97 (FanXpert3). The hero has 4 chassis fans which allows you to control fans via CPU, MoBo or sensor temps.

CPU and CPU_OPT can not be controlled separately but both respond to CPU temps.

FanXpert2 has 4 control schemes

CPU - controls whatever is connected to CPU and CPU_OPT
Chassis 1 - controls whatever is connected to CHA_1
Chassis 2 - controls whatever is connected to CHA_2
Chassis 3 - controls whatever is connected to CHA_3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> Yeah, I think you are correct. After running the fan tuning, I had at one test connected the AP-15's to the CPU_OPT and they were running at full speed. So why the heck does the manual state the CPU_OPT has PWM capability....
> 
> Yes I connected the sata power cable. It is connected now, and I can tell the fans are running around 80% (idle). Basically, the problem is something to do with the range of control. I believe my board is sending a pwm signal and the hub(s) are working as intended, however that signal is just a tiny range between 70-100%. Anything outside that range the fans go to 0. Perhaps my board is to blame, not sure. But I have some true PWM fans coming in next week so I will determine then if it's the board or what.


What is the known range of those fans ? Do you have anything available (rheostat) which will let you supply a range of voltage to the fans. The Phanteks can spin down to about 25% of full speed. If you connect one Phanteks fan to a header and run the test .... then connect the one fan to the hub, you should be able to isolate the problem.

PWM fans won't work on the hub but will be a good test.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rankre*
> 
> So if I'm going to have a aftermarket CPU cooler (212 EVO) and I want to plug that into the CPU_Fan slot in my asrock z97 extreme4, where should I plug the fan hub for my Enthoo Pro? Should I ditch the fan hub? I don't know if I trust the hub enough to plug my 212 evo fan into it.


The hub is really unnecessary / overkill with just a single fan cooler.

CPU => EVO
CPU_OPT => Hub => Case Fans

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *schoolofmonkey*
> 
> Last night I started hearing the grinding sound from one of the lower fans.


The original Primos shipped with different fans than the ones ya buy in a box. I would have thot that they corrected this by now. At each corner there should be a little triangle shaped rubber pad. I have 15 installed..... and one still in a box and none rub or make noises.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> It would appear that the fan xpert software does not seem to know the max rpm speeds when using the phanteks hubs. I have both hubs connected to the cpu headers, and attempting to use voltage control on them the max fan speed it senses is 900 rpm for AP-15's. I'm about to give up on these hubs and just use the nzxt grid, connect all 8 to it and if it kills the board I don't even care anymore.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RnRollie*
> 
> fan expert is probably not "smart" enough to work with something that "reports back" slightly different as an ordinairy tachometer that is expected..


It knows and is smart enough here..... 15 phanteks SP140s (6, 4 and 5 on the 3 hubs) all go from around 326 to 1238 rpm.

What results do you get under each of these conditions (no power connrctor)?
(1) Phanteks Fan => CPU Header
(1) Phanteks Fan => CHA Header
(1) Phanteks Fan => PCB => CPU Header
(1) Phanteks Fan => PCB => CHA Header


----------



## Velict

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> I believe he has the Asus maximus hero z97, which the manual for that board is identical to mine in regards to the fans stating that the only true PWM headers are the CPU_FAN and CPU_OPT.
> 
> If he truely is getting any sort of control to the fan hub then it's something strange. I think he connected the 12V supply to the hub which would rule out any sort of voltage control. So there is some sort of signal coming from the board that I don't understand which the hub seems to pick up as a pwm control signal.
> 
> Edit: not arguing if schoolofmonkey is actually getting control or not, he has proven his fans are being modulated somehow. I just don't understand how.


what fans are you using, what type, what model, 3 pin or pwm?


----------



## schoolofmonkey

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> 1. Well one Possibility is that ASrock may have used PWM on the Chassis Header ?
> 
> 2. The fans or on top of the bracket right ?
> 
> 3. Are these aftermarket Phanteks or fans that came with the chassis that are rubbing ? Does your bracket lay flat on a table ? .... May be warped.
> 
> 4. If original case fans, do they have the rubber vibration isolators ? .... if not request some from Phanteks.
> 
> 5. How many fans on each hub .... if less than 6, no need for the power connector .... I have run 8 w/o issue.


1. Asus, and from what I've been told they used PWM on every fan header on the Maximus VII Hero, that was straight from Asus support.
They have individual controller chips next to each fan header.

2. Nope they are the stock that come with the case, they were running all day down the bottom pulling air in, then I heard this vibration then a clacking sound, pulled out the bottom mount, sat it flat on my desk, still hitting. Tried bending the 120mm mount down a little bit, that got rid of the fan hitting, but the vibration from the fans are horrible, it vibrates the whole case, where it wasn't when I first mounted them.
If you put your finger on the middle of the fan you can feel the vibration, like its off center..

3. There is rubber/foam on the mounting bracket, not on the fans themselves.

4. I have 6, but why add extra stress on the header when the molex is working perfectly..


----------



## Rankre

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> The hub is really unnecessary / overkill with just a single fan cooler.
> 
> CPU => EVO
> CPU_OPT => Hub => Case Fans


I have 4 other fans in addition to the EVO fan. 2 140mm and two 200mm. I've got an asrock z97 extreme4 mobo, and I'm not sure what you mean by CPU_OPT, would that be equivalent to CPU_FAN2? Cause the only other 4 pin plug connection on my mobo is CHA_FAN1, which is not true pwm I think.

EDIT - so rereading everything, let me see if I understand it right. So I should connect the EVO fan to CPU_FAN1, which is 4 pin, and connect my hub to the CPU_FAN2 3 pin? Both of these would then be controlled by the cpu_fan controls in the uefi?


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *schoolofmonkey*
> 
> 1. Asus, and from what I've been told they used PWM on every fan header on the Maximus VII Hero, that was straight from Asus support.
> They have individual controller chips next to each fan header.
> 
> 2. Nope they are the stock that come with the case, they were running all day down the bottom pulling air in, then I heard this vibration then a clacking sound, pulled out the bottom mount, sat it flat on my desk, still hitting. Tried bending the 120mm mount down a little bit, that got rid of the fan hitting, but the vibration from the fans are horrible, it vibrates the whole case, where it wasn't when I first mounted them.
> If you put your finger on the middle of the fan you can feel the vibration, like its off center..
> 
> 3. There is rubber/foam on the mounting bracket, not on the fans themselves.
> 
> 4. I have 6, but why add extra stress on the header when the molex is working perfectly..


1. They said the same thing on Z87 Hero and in the Z87 manual but Asus staff on RoG Forums later refuted. I think the Z87 was planned for PWM but wasn't quite working but manual and staff info was already printed.

2. Your 2 doesn't match my 2







.... I was wondering perhaps if you put the fans UNDER the bracket.

3. (Your 2) The stock fans that shipped with the early Primos are not the same as the stock fans you buy separately in a box.... the latter come with rubber vibration isolators. I thought the bracket might have been warped .... to test that, you can take the fans off and lay on the table.

4. (Your 3) Should be triangle shaped rubber thingies in the indents in each corner. If you didn't get them, they will send them to you if ya ask.

5. (Your 5) Well one reason is that's what Phanteks recommends.... I dunno their reason for doing so. Second, one less cable to run so less clutter. Possible third only comes into play if you mount a 3rd hub .... ya can't get the cable on for the third mount as that side of hub will be against case top.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rankre*
> 
> I have 4 other fans in addition to the EVO fan. 2 140mm and two 200mm. I've got an asrock z97 extreme4 mobo, and I'm not sure what you mean by CPU_OPT, would that be equivalent to CPU_FAN2? Cause the only other 4 pin plug connection on my mobo is CHA_FAN1, which is not true pwm I think.


Yes.... CPU_OPT is Asus terminology, CPU_FAN2 must be Asrock's

You don't need PWM or 4 pins. The hub works just fine with CHA headers..... I have 15 fans running off 3 hubs on CHA headers (325 - 1238 rpm)

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *anteante*
> 
> Today i got the NZXT H440 case but i´m planning to go for the Enthoo Pro and watercooling. Was thinking of going with one 420 radiator in top and a 280 in front but are there any good 140 fans?


1. If we talking performance to noise ratio, the Noctua 1500 rpm140mm jobs were long considered the best. The Phanteks top them by 3C at 300 rpm slower speed.
http://www.overclockersclub.com/reviews/phenteks_f140/3.htm

2. Some of the best 120s and 140s are compared here:
http://www.silentpcreview.com/article1345-page7.html



We don't see much fan testing on rads anymore, suffice to say that air coolers with their tight fin spacing present a quite difficult job .... different than an 8 - 12 fpi rad but certainly not unchallenging.


----------



## schoolofmonkey

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> 1. They said the same thing on Z87 Hero and in the Z87 manual but Asus staff on RoG Forums later refuted. I think the Z87 was planned for PWM but wasn't quite working but manual and staff info was already printed.
> 
> 2. Your 2 doesn't match my 2
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .... I was wondering perhaps if you put the fans UNDER the bracket.
> 
> 3. (Your 2) The stock fans that shipped with the early Primos are not the same as the stock fans you buy separately in a box.... the latter come with rubber vibration isolators. I thought the bracket might have been warped .... to test that, you can take the fans off and lay on the table.
> 
> 4. (Your 3) Should be triangle shaped rubber thingies in the indents in each corner. If you didn't get them, they will send them to you if ya ask.


1. Guess i put the PWM to the test on the z97 board and they did include it this time..lol..

2. Not enough clearance to put the fans under the bracket, but I have stopped the fans hitting, plus when it was hitting I tried every 140mm fan I have here and none of the others did it, so I'm guessing the bracket wasn't warped.

3. No rubber mounts or triangle thingies..lol, I did put the fans face down on my desk and you can here the vibration in them as well, it can be felt right in the middle of the fan like the blades are off center a bit.
Where even the 140mm Corsair's that come with the Air 540 don't vibrate in the bottom bracket.

4. I'm guessing I got the first run of the Primo with the non-rubber thingy fans, could be why Phantek made changes and included them.

Either way the included fans are causing the issues with vibrations through the case, and tapping on the bracket when mounted to draw air into the case.
I wanted to do this because of the GTX780ti Classified, drawing air from the bottom and blowing it directly at the GPU will help cooling, and blow the hot air to the top quicker.

Hey its a monster case, I love it, the look, the space inside, and like any case from any manufacture they have quirks and issues.

So do I just email Phanteks and tell them the issues?


----------



## MrGrievous

*Enthoo Pro*
Does anyone by chance know what type of finish the white Pro has on the front and top?


----------



## JackNaylorPE

I don't know that they have changed anything..... but when ya get 1 fan in the top and ya need 3 or 4 to mount a rad, you are gonna have problems and vibration when one fan is 25mm thick and the others (w/ the thingies) are 27mm thick.....seems making them all the same would solve lotta customer service issues.

I have 16 of those fans and none exhibit the problems you have described. Don't recall any mention of such in any of the reviews.

Same fan, different frame
http://www.silentpcreview.com/article1345-page4.html

http://www.overclockersclub.com/reviews/phenteks_f140/
http://www.hitechlegion.com/reviews/cooling/heatsinks/37419-phanteks-f140














I like the last one showing the fan starting at 3 volts

You aren't water cooling the Classy ?


----------



## Mako0312

Doesnt the Pro not come with the hub as well? And it
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*


So since this is air is it safe to say that on a rad it would be different??


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Different numbers yes..... I think thermal effectiveness would be greater on rads as less resistance and more focused flow (more air exits bottom of rad than opposite side of cooler). I see no logical reason tho while rankings would change much.


----------



## bond32

The fans I am using are all Gentle Typhoon AP-15's which have a max RPM of 1850. Before I dive too deep I am going to wait for the true PWM fans to come in and test to confirm they work as they should just connected to the board.

The only way I can manually change voltage with what I have here is to flip the pins in a molex to provide 5V rather than 12. Even then I don't know what RPM they run at, however I could find that out...


----------



## JackNaylorPE

I wanted to eliminate the GTs as a potential source of the problem, hence the suggestion to try the SP140s

Yellow and Black = 12volts
Red and Black = 7 volts
Red and Yellow = 5 volts


----------



## owcraftsman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dorito Bandit*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *owcraftsman*
> 
> Dayum maybe there's hope yet. I've been waiting for nearly a year for replacement glass and actually just ordered, this week, some polycarbonate to do it my self.
> 
> 
> 
> Before making your own, take a good hard look at how your window is designed. There is a small groove around the outer edge of it. This is what allows the window to set up flush against the inside of the side panel.
Click to expand...

Yes I have looked at it long an hard and realize what you are saying here and have come to the conclusion it will no longer be flush. The good news is it will be clear vs the cloudy 2nd hand look of the original glass that Phanteks has failed to replace and now would appear they have forgotten about getting back to me about after many emails which culminated in them saying they would. I also realize that email came to me more than 6 moths ago but forgetting about it is no excuse. Clearly there customer support is failing at best. I do hope this is a temporary situation and they will improve because there cases rock and it would be a shame if there went under for this reason.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Don't know if it's been mentioned yet (if so I missed it somehow) but the Luxe in black and white are both now available for preorder in the US on http://www.phanteksusa.com for $150 with an "Estimated Ship Date 8/6/14"


----------



## WHIMington

*Enthoo Pro/Luxe*

Yesterday I just found out that If I use a SLI setup I will not be able to fit all the things that I want into the case, basicly, I will have to dump the rear 140 rad and fan to mount my Proton 170 tube reservoir, and find a place to mount the dual D5 top to some place else. I found that I might have just enough space to mount the dual D5 to the reservoir bracket, but it will be a tight fit for my rigid tubings.


----------



## Tweetbix

Hey guys don't know if this has been mentioned but this appeared in the New Products list at PCCG (PC Case Gear, where a lot of Aussies get their pc stuff)

Phanteks PWM Fan Hub
https://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=28287
$9


----------



## GOLDDUBBY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Don't know if it's been mentioned yet (if so I missed it somehow) but the Luxe in black and white are both now available for preorder in the US on http://www.phanteksusa.com for $150 with an "Estimated Ship Date 8/6/14"


That's Enthoo Luxe in Black ... and Enthoo Pro in white. .


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GOLDDUBBY*
> 
> That's Enthoo Luxe in Black ... and Enthoo Pro in white. .


http://www.phanteksusa.com/pages/products

There's both the Pro and the Luxe (and the Primo) in black and white.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> [
> 
> 1. Well one Possibility is that ASrock may have used PWM on the Chassis Header ?


I believe ASrock has at least one motherboard with PWM on CHA fan header.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> The fans I am using are all Gentle Typhoon AP-15's which have a max RPM of 1850. *Before I dive too deep I am going to wait for the true PWM fans to come in and test to confirm they work as they should just connected to the board.*
> 
> The only way I can manually change voltage with what I have here is to flip the pins in a molex to provide 5V rather than 12. Even then I don't know what RPM they run at, however I could find that out...


Just plugging a PWM fan to PWM header does not prove it is in fact PWM. To verify it is really a PWM header the fan must be powered by an independent 12v power source.


----------



## GOLDDUBBY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> http://www.phanteksusa.com/pages/products


The white one looks really awesome http://www.phanteksusa.com/collections/cases/products/phanteks-enthoo-luxe-white

Hopefully they will be in stock soon.
.


----------



## jdsb52

Hey guys does anyone know why the two usb 2.0 ports on the case wont power my corsair m60 mouse, they power everything else???


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> I wanted to eliminate the GTs as a potential source of the problem, hence the suggestion to try the SP140s
> 
> Yellow and Black = 12volts
> Red and Black = 7 volts
> Red and Yellow = 5 volts


Yellow and Black = 12volts = 12v & ground = good and safe.








Red and Black = 7 volts = 12v & 5v (pushes 5v of the 12v back to PSU)







Does give 7v but is not really good for PSU.








Red and Yellow = 5 volts = 5v & ground = good and safe.


----------



## GOLDDUBBY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jdsb52*
> 
> Hey guys does anyone know why the two usb 2.0 ports on the case wont power my corsair m60 mouse, they power everything else???


You have to ask your motherboard. The usb connections on the case are just extensions from the motherboards usb header.


----------



## jdsb52

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GOLDDUBBY*
> 
> You have to ask your motherboard. The usb connections on the case are just extensions from the motherboards usb header.


Lool yeah first thing was to check all connections, turned out windows blacklisted the port, disabled it and re enabled works like a charm!


----------



## fateswarm

On the Pro,

I "installed" the 2nd drive at the back at the cables area by just leaving it there. I wanted more airflow from the front and I didn't think that flimsy hdd drive deserved the honor of keeping the whole bay contraption there.

"YOLO"


----------



## doyll

Enthoo size comparison & some EU prices. Enthoo Luxe is pre-order. Should be here 2n'd week in August.


----------



## Dorito Bandit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *owcraftsman*
> 
> Yes I have looked at it long an hard and realize what you are saying here and have come to the conclusion it will no longer be flush. The good news is it will be clear vs the cloudy 2nd hand look of the original glass that Phanteks has failed to replace and now would appear they have forgotten about getting back to me about after many emails which culminated in them saying they would. I also realize that email came to me more than 6 moths ago but forgetting about it is no excuse. Clearly there customer support is failing at best. I do hope this is a temporary situation and they will improve because there cases rock and it would be a shame if there went under for this reason.


*Phanteks Customer Support*

Man I hate to see companies with great products/potential have terrible customer service. If your case is still under warranty (5 years) you should be able to get a replacement. Unless you're wanting to replace the window with your own type of glass, I would NOT give up trying to get the issue resolved. When I contacted them about my window being scratched all up they responded within 24hrs. I got my replacement window in about 2 weeks as they were out of stock at the time I contacted them. Hopefully they''ll do the right thing and take care of you. Do keep us updated on this issue. Everyone needs to see the outcome of this.

Good luck!


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tweetbix*
> 
> Hey guys don't know if this has been mentioned but this appeared in the New Products list at PCCG (PC Case Gear, where a lot of Aussies get their pc stuff)
> 
> Phanteks PWM Fan Hub
> https://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=28287
> $9


yes it's been mentioned but interesting that it's $6 cheaper than from PhanteksUSA.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WHIMington*
> 
> *Enthoo Pro/Luxe*
> 
> Yesterday I just found out that If I use a SLI setup I will not be able to fit all the things that I want into the case, basicly, I will have to dump the rear 140 rad and fan to mount my Proton 170 tube reservoir, and find a place to mount the dual D5 top to some place else. I found that I might have just enough space to mount the dual D5 to the reservoir bracket, but it will be a tight fit for my rigid tubings.


That was the big worry even when the Primo came out. With no answers anywhere, I created this mockup to test fit and it was so close that I hadda go out and buy 1 card / WB to see if it did actually fit



Once I confirmed and posted pics, FCPU and PPCs were outta stock of WBs within a day









The Photon however was outta the question as as it's uniquely large diameter (along with the Aqualis) made it a no go.

I mounted the dual 35x2 under the tip HD cage.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Yellow and Black = 12volts = 12v & ground = good and safe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Red and Black = 7 volts = 12v & 5v (pushes 5v of the 12v back to PSU)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Does give 7v but is not really good for PSU.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Red and Yellow = 5 volts = 5v & ground = good and safe.


I never had a reason to do it but Antec and other case manufacturers provide 3 position switches on their case fans using this method.....they switch outputs are 5, 7 and 12v....

I can't imagine TPU not getting any flak for their article if this was unsafe. I wouldn't suggest it for a permanent solution with a big bunch of fans as rheostats are better option but I wouldn't worry for one shot testing purposes to see if a fan runs at lower rpm.

http://www.techpowerup.com/articles/other/137


----------



## Screetch82

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> yes it's been mentioned but interesting that it's $6 cheaper than from PhanteksUSA.
> 
> http://www.techpowerup.com/articles/other/137


In Germany it costs 17 Euros plus shipping: http://www.caseking.de/shop/catalog/Luefter/Luefter-Controller/Alle-Fan-Controller/PHANTEKS-PWM-Luefter-Hub-retail-schwarz::28265.html

That is about 23 Dollars. If anybody from Phantek reads this. Can you please get in touch with the store. I really feel cheated now.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> I never had a reason to do it but Antec and other case manufacturers provide 3 position switches on their case fans using this method.....they switch outputs are 5, 7 and 12v....
> 
> I can't imagine TPU not getting any flak for their article if this was unsafe. I wouldn't suggest it for a permanent solution with a big bunch of fans as rheostats are better option but I wouldn't worry for one shot testing purposes to see if a fan runs at lower rpm.
> 
> http://www.techpowerup.com/articles/other/137


I know lots of people have done it, but that doesn't make it right. Look how many supposedly educated testing and reviewer staff don't have the common sense to use cooling intake air temp and instead use room ambient when testing in cases making results only applicable to their system used to do the testing and nothing else.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> I know lots of people have done it, but that doesn't make it right. Look how many supposedly educated testing and reviewer staff don't have the common sense to use cooling intake air temp and instead use room ambient when testing in cases making results only applicable to their system used to do the testing and nothing else.


Again, if it was blowing things up.... I think Antec would have stopped doing it by now and we be able to google oodles of posts of "My PSU blew up when I did this". I still don't see how hooking a test fan up long enough to read the rpm (8 seconds ?) presents any danger.

As for air temp issue......if the test bed is consistent, everything will be reasonably relative as long as your test bed isn't an ITX case w/ one fan. If we take that strict a test bed criteria, I could find fault with just about every test procedure. It certainly has less distortion than any implication that the top cooler on HW will be the top cooler on LGA 2011 or anything else.

-Heat Block Testing - absolutely useless since heat signature varies ... otherwise xtremesystems would not show drastic performance differences between blocks on SB vs IB vs LGA2011 vs HW
-Fan testing on rads - won't that change on every radiator
-GFX Cards - Must reviewer make identical custom fan curve for each card or use as manufacturer designed their card ?
-GFX cards - How to you compare 3 factory overclocked 780s say when they are at 889, 954 or 967 Mhz ... what about a 290x where you have uktar switched ?
-Cases Cooling - How do you compare case with 3 fans versus case w/ 5 fans ? As delivered or w/ equal fans ?
-Cooler testing - why aren't fan rpm's or noise normalized to compare apples and apples ?
-RAM testing - why average fps when it was long ago established the increased RAM speeds / Lower CAS have greater effect on min frame rates and multi card performance than single card avg frame rates.
-GFX card testing .... they usually use a top tier CPU so as to remove any CPU bottlenecking influence on the results .... but doesn't this handicap low end AMD GPUs as the gain more from mantle than the higher end CPus do ?
- Rad testing - testing in a rig versus on a test bed like Martins

If the case is large enough, with enough ventilation, I have no concerns.....

The CPU, GFX card, MoBo and all other components will consistently produce the same wattage.
If the case fans consistently produce the same air flow, there should be no significant impact; if they don't because a cooler is say so large that it blocks air flow to the rear fan, then you would want that effect included.

With the case fans producing the same amount of air and the system producing the same amount of watts, what is that you see making a different delta T under one condition than another ? and If delta T is constant, then isn't case temp constantly going to be the same delta T above ambient ? As long as case fans are moving more air than the cooler, I don't see a major issue.... But even if the effect did result in a difference in temps, I can't see it affecting relative performance..... certainly won't have anywhere near the error between a heat block and any number of real CPUs

The other thing I'd point out is why don't we see a significant change in rankings when testing is done on open air platforms like is done here ?





Open Air - - Phanteks > Noctua > Thermalright

http://www.vortez.net/articles_pages/phanteks_ph_tc14pe_cpu_cooler_review,15.html
In case - Phanteks > Noctua > Thermalright


----------



## fateswarm

Primo is bigger than a Bus


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> With the case fans producing the same amount of air and the system producing the same amount of watts, what is that you see making a different delta T under one condition than another ? and If delta T is constant, then isn't case temp constantly going to be the same delta T above ambient ? As long as case fans are moving more air than the cooler, I don't see a major issue.... But even if the effect did result in a difference in temps, I can't see it affecting relative performance..... certainly won't have anywhere near the error between a heat block and any number of real CPUs


The issues are simply the air temperature going into cooler changes all the time.

The case airllow changes with different component combinations .. and even different cable management combinations.
Airflow also changes with cooler fan speed / cfm changes.
Each time the airflow changes there is usually a change in cooler intake air temperature.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> The other thing I'd point out is why don't we see a significant change in rankings when testing is done on open air platforms like is done here ?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Open Air - - Phanteks > Noctua > Thermalright
> 
> http://www.vortez.net/articles_pages/phanteks_ph_tc14pe_cpu_cooler_review,15.html
> In case - Phanteks > Noctua > Thermalright


I'm not spending time trying to find data results in a video, sorry .. no I'm not sorry.









As for the Vortez review it's okay, but David has been caught out several times. Let's look at newer Vortez reviews.(versus 3 year old)
http://www.vortez.net/articles_pages/cryorig_r1_ultimate_review,9.html

Notice how H100i is 8c cooler than Silver Arrow SB_E Extreme, 10c cooler than Cryorig R1 Ultimate, 17c cooler than HE01, 18c cooler than NH-D14. This is a perfect example of how the temps are way off because of air temperature differences going into cooler / radiator.

Now look at H100 in a well ventilated case or on open bench like this video review where H100 is smae as SA SB-E and SA SB-E Extreme is 8c cooler than SA-SB-E. 7c cooler than H100
_i7 3820 @4.75GHz
Temperature is delta.

H100 . . . . . . . . . 41c2500rpm . . . . . . . . . 55dBA 2x fans (stock)
SA SB-E . . . . . . . 42c1100rpm & 1300rpm. . 38dBA TY-150 & TY-141 (stock)
SA SB-E Extreme. . 34c2500rpm . . . . . . . . . 56dBA 2x TY-143 (stock)_





_jump in to 3:40 for results_

Or how about this review of top air coolers trouncing CLCs. when airflow / air temperature to coolers and radiators is similar.
 

 

This same kind of variance occurs with coolers using high cfm fans, like Silver Arrow SB-E Extreme, Silver Arrow IB-E Extreme, HE01 and also with coolers offset toward rear vent .. or running rear fans that are pushing air out of case better .. which results in cooler air going into cooler.

Cooler reviews showing temperatures should always use cooler intake air temperature. The only time the cooler should be used in a system using room ambient is in a SYSTEM REVIEW. Because that is what it is.


----------



## Accursed Entity

*Enthoo Luxe*

From Hardwareluxx(Ger)


----------



## skydog71

Does anybody know where to buy an LED extension cable for the 140mm LED fans? Or does anybody know the names of the connectors? I've got an LED fan installed on the bottom rear of the case and I'm about 100mm short of reaching the closest LED fan inlet on the Primo control switch. I could probably bridge the gap by clipping the connectors, twisting a pair of copper wires to both ends, and tidying it up with some electrical tape --- but I'd rather not put my setup under the knife unless absolutely necessary.


----------



## brian-phanteks

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skydog71*
> 
> Does anybody know where to buy an LED extension cable for the 140mm LED fans? Or does anybody know the names of the connectors? I've got an LED fan installed on the bottom rear of the case and I'm about 100mm short of reaching the closest LED fan inlet on the Primo control switch. I could probably bridge the gap by clipping the connectors, twisting a pair of copper wires to both ends, and tidying it up with some electrical tape --- but I'd rather not put my setup under the knife unless absolutely necessary.


Try giving a search for JST EL-2P. Those are the connectors you are looking for.


----------



## skydog71

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brian-phanteks*
> 
> Try giving a search for JST EL-2P. Those are the connectors you are looking for.


Thank you very much!


----------



## derfer

How do you clean the front filter on the Primo? All the pics I see it looks like it's screwed in.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derfer*
> 
> How do you clean the front filter on the Primo? All the pics I see it looks like it's screwed in.


The front filter cover pops out with a push-click fastener, and yes the filter itself is screwed to it. The easiest way to clean air filters is with an air compressor or a datavac. You don't need to unscrew it to blow filters clean. If you want to rinse it you would probably be better off unscrewing it.


----------



## derfer

That might be a deal breaker for a friend of mine looking to get the case. Sticky dust means washing, which makes for a lot of unscrewing. I see the Luxe and Pro have similarly inconvenient front filters. It's an odd choice to me seeing how easy they make the bottom filters to remove on these cases and you're less likely to use those than you are the front.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

"sticky dust"? Are you planning on running the system next to a deep fat fryer? I would/have never 'washed' a computer filter in my life. The filters blow spotlessly clean so easy in seconds.

We currently have 6 desktops in this house that I built all with filtered intakes (positive pressure to help keep the dust out) and we blow out all the filters clean at least once a month. A lot of the filters are screwed in like with the Cosmos II where I have to pop the whole top or side panel off and take the whole thing outside and blow them out. When we do I usually roll a couple of the entire cases outside to blow everything out of them, and the whole process to do all of them takes 15 min tops. I couldn't imagine not having an air compressor.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derfer*
> 
> How do you clean the front filter on the Primo? All the pics I see it looks like it's screwed in.


There is no need to have the 6 screws holding the filter .. it has 4 clips, two on each side holding the filter in place.
Remove the screws and put them in the screw container supplied.

Remove lower front panel by pushing in on the push-to-rekese latches.

In some cases these latches are hard to get to release. If you have this problem, remove the lowest 5.25" bay cover, grip with fingers behind cross frame and thumbs on panel an squeeze to release. Works a treat!

Remove the 6 screw and put them in the supplied screw & accessory case.
Remove filter from clips.
Clean
Clip back in.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derfer*
> 
> How do you clean the front filter on the Primo? All the pics I see it looks like it's screwed in.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derfer*
> 
> That might be a deal breaker for a friend of mine looking to get the case. Sticky dust means washing, which makes for a lot of unscrewing. I see the Luxe and Pro have similarly inconvenient front filters. It's an odd choice to me seeing how easy they make the bottom filters to remove on these cases and you're less likely to use those than you are the front.


No problem removing front filter at all. It is secured with both clops and screws.

There is no need to have the 6 screws holding the filter .. it has 4 clips, two on each side holding the filter in place.
Remove the screws and put them in the screw container supplied.

Remove lower front panel by pushing in on the push-to-rekese latches.

In some cases these latches are hard to get to release. If you have this problem, remove the lowest 5.25" bay cover, grip with fingers behind cross frame and thumbs on panel an squeeze to release. Works a treat!

Remove the 6 screw and put them in the supplied screw & accessory case.
Remove filter from clips.
Clean
Clip back in.


----------



## GOLDDUBBY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> There is no need to have the 6 screws holding the filter .. it has 4 clips, two on each side holding the filter in place.
> Remove the screws and put them in the screw container supplied.
> 
> Remove lower front panel by pushing in on the push-to-rekese latches.
> 
> In some cases these latches are hard to get to release. If you have this problem, remove the lowest 5.25" bay cover, grip with fingers behind cross frame and thumbs on panel an squeeze to release. Works a treat!
> 
> Remove the 6 screw and put them in the supplied screw & accessory case.
> Remove filter from clips.
> Clean
> Clip back in.


Yea it's a simple operation. I clean my filters once/week with some soap in the sink.


----------



## combat fighter

Hi there,

I'm thinking of getting a Primo to replace my 800D. The more I look at it the more I want it! lol

Does anyone know if you can fit a aqua computer aqualis XT/Pro 450ml tube res in the dedicated space (left the HD cages) as its 80mm in diameter?

As I would like to get one of them res's to go with my Primo when I get around to it.

Cheers


----------



## rpjkw11

The first time I cleaned mine I, of course, removed the screws, looked at the assembly and decided to go without the PINTHEAS screws. No problems. I like how easily the filters clean uo in the sink with a little water, then a quick Metrovac blow and they're good as new. The front cover was very hard to remove, as we all know, but I followed the same suggestion Doyll made about removing the lower drive bay cover. Now, the Primo is a breeze for regular maintenance. I like the case the more I mess around with it (them, I have two).


----------



## doyll

Cases that a person like more the longer they use it are few and far between.


----------



## derfer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> "sticky dust"? Are you planning on running the system next to a deep fat fryer? I would/have never 'washed' a computer filter in my life. The filters blow spotlessly clean so easy in seconds.
> 
> We currently have 6 desktops in this house that I built all with filtered intakes (positive pressure to help keep the dust out) and we blow out all the filters clean at least once a month. A lot of the filters are screwed in like with the Cosmos II where I have to pop the whole top or side panel off and take the whole thing outside and blow them out. When we do I usually roll a couple of the entire cases outside to blow everything out of them, and the whole process to do all of them takes 15 min tops. I couldn't imagine not having an air compressor.


Sticky dust, which most in this field will have encountered at some point, comes in two varieties. Pet and smoker.

The pet sticky dust is that ultra fine normal looking dust that a data vac can't quiet blow off of PCBs. You usually only spot it if the case is filtered because it's the only thing small enough to get in. You need compressed air for that, but it doesn't stick to filters too much.

The smoker one is pretty self explanatory, that brown tar that makes dust stick to filters and everything else in a smoking household. Though hardware will always smell in these instances the filters go quite a long way toward keeping the inside of cases visibly clean. In this case you pretty much always need water.

But the dust type doesn't really matter. Filters should always be removable without taking off panels or unscrewing things. This is case design 101. Sadly too many manufactures screw that up when it's a pretty simple thing to implement. It's especially ridiculous when they do this on cases that have fragile plastic clips holding these panels in place that are prone to breakage, yet they expect you to be removing these panels monthly to get to the filters. Just costs them money in unnecessary RMA claims, unless of course they're a company that ignores their support emails, but I digress. That reminds me though, are the side panel filters on the primo also screwed in? If so demiflex filters would probably work but that's a big cost on top of an already costly case.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> There is no need to have the 6 screws holding the filter .. it has 4 clips, two on each side holding the filter in place.
> Remove the screws and put them in the screw container supplied.
> 
> Remove lower front panel by pushing in on the push-to-rekese latches.
> 
> In some cases these latches are hard to get to release. If you have this problem, remove the lowest 5.25" bay cover, grip with fingers behind cross frame and thumbs on panel an squeeze to release. Works a treat!
> 
> Remove the 6 screw and put them in the supplied screw & accessory case.
> Remove filter from clips.
> Clean
> Clip back in.


The screws being redundant is good, but what's with the "lifehack" method of getting it to pop out? Is that one of those things that only affects older cases? Thought I read something about a revision and latches awhile back.


----------



## Velict

i'm literally 'bout to kersplode. I want to start building in this case so badly, but x99 isn't out yet, and I'M STUCK IN THIS DESERT!


----------



## sticks435

Hey guys, I'm thinking about picking up the Luxe when it becomes available and had a couple of questions. Since I believe the interior dimensions of the Pro and Luxe are exactly the same, hopefully these can be answered.

Is there any sort of horizontal offset in the top for rads like on the Primo? I've got a UT360 in my Switch 810 and never put bottom fans on because they would hit my VRM heatsinks and that was with 80MM of clearance.

Would a regular 780 Classified fit with the res bracket installed and a FrozenQ Helix Res installed? These ones here: http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=32113 If I did my math right I don't think it will, since the card+res would be 434mm and according to Phanteks site, the max is 338 even without the res.

Thanks!


----------



## Shingyboy

So does anyone know the differences between the Enthoo Luxe and the Enthoo Primo? The Luxe looks damn sexy with those colour changing LEDs but I am assuming the Primo is just straight up better right?


----------



## fateswarm

The Primo is way bigger for one.


----------



## WHIMington

@sticks435 Unfortunately no, the top rad mounting point were groved slots so it is impossible to off set without compromising air flow, however fitting a 60mm rad with only push or pull fan wouldn't be a problem on the Luxe if you are using a standard ATX board, my Pro did ran into a little spacing problem when I try to fit a 45mm 360 rad and 25mm thick fan together at the bottom, but sawing off a part of the fan will fix the problem.


----------



## PureBlackFire

eventually I want to use a 45mm thick rad with two sets of fans. looks like it should just make it in the luxe. or would I be better off with a 56mm rad like the RX360 with a single set of fans?


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shingyboy*
> 
> So does anyone know the differences between the Enthoo Luxe and the Enthoo Primo? The Luxe looks damn sexy with those colour changing LEDs but I am assuming the Primo is just straight up better right?


http://www.overclock.net/t/1418637/official-case-phanteks-club-enthoo-primo-enthoo-luxe-enthoo-pro-lovers-owners/4780_20#post_22596728
Shows all three cases (no pun) all scaled the same in black and white (no pun)


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derfer*
> 
> The screws being redundant is good, but what's with the "lifehack" method of getting it to pop out? Is that one of those things that only affects older cases? Thought I read something about a revision and latches awhile back.


I don't know how it is on new cases.

The reason it is a problem is the crossmember behind the top of panel flexes a little .. and the push to release tatchs are near the center of it .. so when we push on front of panel to get it to release, the flex is just enough to make the sides of panel come against the stops without the latch releasing. Just a slight squeeze is all it takes.








One of those 20/20 hindsight things; if the push to release latches were on the corners there would be no problem.









But to change it now would mean a new front panel mold, a new front mold, etc. .. lots of re-tooling and expense.


----------



## Shingyboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1418637/official-case-phanteks-club-enthoo-primo-enthoo-luxe-enthoo-pro-lovers-owners/4780_20#post_22596728
> Shows all three cases (no pun) all scaled the same in black and white (no pun)


Oh yeah thanks for that, I do know there is a significant price different, which was what I was trying to get at, is the Primo worth the extra money? other than a larger case what extra benefits do you get with going over the Luxe? and does the Luxe do anything better than the Primo?


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shingyboy*
> 
> Oh yeah thanks for that, I do know there is a significant price different, which was what I was trying to get at, is the Primo worth the extra money? other than a larger case what extra benefits do you get with going over the Luxe? and does the Luxe do anything better than the Primo?


To put is simply, bigger means more space .. to use bigger radiators, pumps, etc.
All depends on how much you want to put inside or how much room you have to put your case in.








Pro and Luxe are basically same case with different front and top panels.
Luxe has a few more accessories included. Primo is quite heavy so many of us have ours on castor base .. which raised case 40-55mm .. or almost as tall as a desktop is.


----------



## Danzle

Hey guys. I want to buy a Enthoo Pro for my first build and i have some questions to it.

1. Will the includet 200mm fan deliver enough fresh air for two Gigabyte GTX780 OC Windforce X3 Rev2 and a Noctua NH-D15?

2. Or should i use the 200mm fan as the top exhaust und buy some 120/140mm for intake?

3. Can i leave the second half of the drivecage in or will it distrub the airflow?

Never saw that much features for that price


----------



## Dorito Bandit

*Speaking of Dust Prevention*

Have any of you ever used Endust before or a similar product? Might be worth a try to help prevent the build up of dust in your system. Although I highly doubt anything is going to prevent dust from your system completely, this could help some. Looks like there are a few other advantages of using this product as well.



*Product Info*
*Anti-Static formulation helps prevent buildup of static-charges

*Removes dust and gently cleans away fingerprints

*Repels dust, keeping AV equipment dust-free

*Alcohol and Ammonia Free

*Cleaner sprays out as a light foam with clean scent

*Leaves electronics Streak Free

*Safely clean external surfaces of your electronics including all types of screens: tablets, smartphones, television, monitor, printer, scanner, copier, digital picture screen, notebook computers, fax machines, gaming systems, keyboards, mice, DVD and Blu-ray players, remote controllers, GPS and more!

Endust Sold On Amazon (USA)


----------



## RnRollie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Danzle*
> 
> Hey guys. I want to buy a Enthoo Pro for my first build and i have some questions to it.
> 
> 1. Will the includet 200mm fan deliver enough fresh air for two Gigabyte GTX780 OC Windforce X3 Rev2 and a Noctua NH-D15?
> 
> 2. Or should i use the 200mm fan as the top exhaust und buy some 120/140mm for intake?
> 
> 3. Can i leave the second half of the drivecage in or will it distrub the airflow?
> 
> Never saw that much features for that price


1 no
2 yes
3 yes/no


----------



## bond32

Sorry phanteks, you just got bumped! New Bitfenix Atlas is my next case...

Was about to order the Primo(second one) because I want uber rad space. But looks like the Atlas will be my next. They claim it can hold 4x360mm radiators... And it's nowhere near as big as the primo.


----------



## Roxycon

i fail to see how the atlas can fit 4x360 rads









mb side of the showcased atlas has a 240 in the front and it looks cramped and in the back right on top of the psu there is only space for a 240


----------



## bond32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roxycon*
> 
> i fail to see how the atlas can fit 4x360 rads
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> mb side of the showcased atlas has a 240 in the front and it looks cramped and in the back right on top of the psu there is only space for a 240


I think that is actually a 280, but not sure. Various sources I saw say it can fit a 360 in both tops and front mounting areas. Not enough information to know for sure... But regardless, its nowhere near as big as the primo yet it might actually be able to fit more radiators.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> I think that is actually a 280, but not sure. Various sources I saw say it can fit a 360 in both tops and front mounting areas. Not enough information to know for sure... But regardless, its nowhere near as big as the primo yet it might actually be able to fit more radiators.


It looks like you can fit 360 x 2 in front. Seems likely you can fit too on top but not sure would be 2x360 there since there is the MB tray. Personally I think the case is ugly like hell but hey, taste is something quite personal...


----------



## Accursed Entity

Bitfenix Atlas smaller than a Primo? Maybe, but it's a cube design, it's wider and occupy more space by square. It does support more rad space than the Primo I think though. I think the Bitfenix Atlas looks too childish, like a cube for kids to play. But that's just my personal taste.

*Enthoo Primo*
250mm x 650mm x 600mm (WxHxD)

*Bitfenix Atlas*
383 mm x 443 mm x 541 mm (WxHxD)


----------



## Shingyboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> To put is simply, bigger means more space .. to use bigger radiators, pumps, etc.
> All depends on how much you want to put inside or how much room you have to put your case in.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Pro and Luxe are basically same case with different front and top panels.
> Luxe has a few more accessories included. Primo is quite heavy so many of us have ours on castor base .. which raised case 40-55mm .. or almost as tall as a desktop is.


I am a bit of a newbie when it comes to building a computer but I still want high quality components and such. If I were to splash out money on the Enthoo Primo would it be worth it? Plus I can re-use the case if I ever want to build a new PC too right?

Is it better to have the room so I when I have the money and experience to add stuff to it later on down the line then I can? I have just heard great things about these cases but I am not sure how can fully utilise the Primo. Which case do you think I should get?


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shingyboy*
> 
> I am a bit of a newbie when it comes to building a computer but I still want high quality components and such. If I were to splash out money on the Enthoo Primo would it be worth it? Plus I can re-use the case if I ever want to build a new PC too right?
> 
> Is it better to have the room so I when I have the money and experience to add stuff to it later on down the line then I can? I have just heard great things about these cases but I am not sure how can fully utilise the Primo. Which case do you think I should get?


Do you plan to air cool or go water?

I use air and know how to setup a a good air system. Others here use water and some have spend well over $1000.00 on their custom loops.

Keep in mind that closed loop cooling units are no better than top air coolers, are louder, not as dependable, and cost more. Therefore the best choices are either stay with air or go the expense of a good custom loop .. and I do mean expense. Air cooling is about $100 maximum plus maybe a couple good case fans. Custom loops are $400-500 and up. A GPU waterblock can be over $100 by itself. Remember, GPUs make more heat than CPUs.


----------



## Dorito Bandit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shingyboy*
> 
> I am a bit of a newbie when it comes to building a computer but I still want high quality components and such. If I were to splash out money on the Enthoo Primo would it be worth it? Plus I can re-use the case if I ever want to build a new PC too right?
> 
> Is it better to have the room so I when I have the money and experience to add stuff to it later on down the line then I can? I have just heard great things about these cases but I am not sure how can fully utilise the Primo. Which case do you think I should get?


Shingyboy,

What will this new build be primarily used for, and what is your budget? Knowing this would help us in helping you. If you're not going to have much to spend on your build, you certainly do not want to use most of your money on a case. That money could be better spent on higher quality components. Just something to consider.

As for reusing your case, of course you can reuse it for future builds.


----------



## Rankre

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dorito Bandit*
> 
> My window has a darkish tint, even the replacement window. And yes, I can see much better inside my case with this replacement window. The window that came with the case appears slightly blurry. Not sure if this is normal or just with the case I purchased. What ever the reason, my replacement window looks much better. Let us know how yours turns out.


My replacement window just got here today and I swapped them out. The tabs are a little fragile looking and some paint from the tabs did fall from bending them straight and then back into place but no accidents







And the window they sent me was almost exactly like the stock window. Dark, smoked tint and a little hard to see the components. Oh well, at least this one was bubble wrapped and had plastic protective sleeves on both sides. No scratches now.


----------



## Dorito Bandit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rankre*
> 
> My replacement window just got here today and I swapped them out. The tabs are a little fragile looking and some paint from the tabs did fall from bending them straight and then back into place but no accidents
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the window they sent me was almost exactly like the stock window. Dark, smoked tint and a little hard to see the components. Oh well, at least this one was bubble wrapped and had plastic protective sleeves on both sides. No scratches now.


Glad to see you got your replacement window!









My window is dark, too, but it is very clear and I can see my components. The window that came with the case was not only blurry, but looked as if there was something sprayed on it. Not very nice looking. Now, I can look inside my computer and see all my components, and talk to them during those days when I am feeling lonely and sad!


----------



## schoolofmonkey

So the window is meant to be dark and tinited, I thought it was just mine.
Not that I'm complaining, it hides the black cables, and you can only see the LED's of stuff..

But on mine if you look at it on an angle there's an oval shape right in the middle of it..lol

I've got 5 red Phantek fans turning up tomorrow to replace the stock ones, even though the ones that come with the case vibrated like crazy I still went with Phantek's, they move a lot of air with very little noise, and they don't resonate in the case like others I've tried.
Also the store bought Phantek's come with rubber anti-vibration so that will stop any noise.

Anyone know how to replace the blue strip, its it just standard LED strips you can get off ebay?
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/5050-5M-RGB-SMD-Light-LED-Strip-44Key-IR-Remote-Controller-Power-Supply-Adapter-/111335335104?pt=AU_Lighting_Fans&var=&hash=item19ec1a64c0


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *schoolofmonkey*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> So the window is meant to be dark and tinited, I thought it was just mine.
> Not that I'm complaining, it hides the black cables, and you can only see the LED's of stuff..
> 
> But on mine if you look at it on an angle there's an oval shape right in the middle of it..lol
> 
> I've got 5 red Phantek fans turning up tomorrow to replace the stock ones, even though the ones that come with the case vibrated like crazy I still went with Phantek's, they move a lot of air with very little noise, and they don't resonate in the case like others I've tried.
> Also the store bought Phantek's come with rubber anti-vibration so that will stop any noise.
> 
> 
> 
> Anyone know how to replace the blue strip, its it just standard LED strips you can get off ebay?
> http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/5050-5M-RGB-SMD-Light-LED-Strip-44Key-IR-Remote-Controller-Power-Supply-Adapter-/111335335104?pt=AU_Lighting_Fans&var=&hash=item19ec1a64c0


Assuming you have the Primo, no it is not a standard LED strip, but it is possible to change it. From the Primo FAQs on the first post of this thread:
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> _*Case*_  *Owner's Club*
> 
> *Enthoo Pro posts and information start at post 3705*
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1418637/official-case-phanteks-club-enthoo-primo-enthoo-pro-lovers-owners/3700_20#post_22224553
> 
> *Enthoo Primo first review by Anandtech*
> http://www.anandtech.com/show/7212/phanteks-enthoo-primo-case-review
> 
> *Enthoo Primo review by Jesse on theMODZOO*
> http://themodzoo.com/forum/index.php?/topic/854-case-review-phanteks-enthoo-primo-full-tower-review/
> 
> *Phanteks Enthoo Primo website link with specifications and manual*
> http://www.phanteks.com/Enthoo-Primo.html
> 
> *Link to Gallery, Build Logs, & Specifications*
> https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/ccc?key=0AkQu-gDSL98FdEQtNnVITTVSdmd6QTRFV0MtQkR1YkE&usp=sharing
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1418637/phanteks-enthoo-primo-owners-club*Enthoo Primo Owners Club*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *FAQ*
> ** Kindly donated by user jassilamba (Jesse on theMODZOO) **
> 
> I have been getting questions all over the place, so I decided to take them all and put them in one place. If you have a question on this case, leave a comment and I will get it added in here.
> 
> *What is the max clearance for a radiator installed in the top panel?*
> - The case has a clearance of 70mm for mounting a radiator in the roof. The mounts are offset by ~54mm so installing a 60mm (120mm series) radiator in push pull should not be an issue. As long as you do not have anything taller than 53mm on the motherboard (including ram), you can even install a 480mm monsta radiator in push pull. The X79 Dark, and G-Skill ram CAN be used with a monsta rad in push pull.
> 
> *What is the space between the top of the case, and the top of the top 5.25" drive bay?*
> - The space from the top of the case to the top of the top 5.25" drive bay is 55mm or 2.16 inches. A single drive bay is 41.3mm tall, so 55+41 = 96mm. That is enough space to mount a 45mm or a 60mm rad in push pull and only loose the top drive bay.
> 
> Dont forget the fittings if you have them facing the front as they might take more space and.
> 
> *What is the max clearance for installing a radiator in the front with the HDD cages in place?*
> - You have 45mm of space before you will hit the HDD cages. A XT 45 will fit, but it will be a very close fit, you can expect the HDD cage to rub a little against the rad.
> 
> *Can I install a 420mm radiator in the bottom of the case?*
> - Depends on how comfortable you are with modding. In order to fit a 420mm radiator in the bottom you would have to modify the panel that conceals the HDD cages, and the drive bays. You would also have to use 120mm fans with 140mm to 120mm adapters. If you do not want to use adapters, you will have to drill holes in the bottom for 140mm fan mounting.
> 
> *Can I fit a 140mm series, 60mm radiator in the roof of the case in push/pull?*
> - No, a 140mm series rad in 60mm will be too close to the motherboard heatsinks and the fans will come in the way. Users might be able to use a shroud or a 140mm to 120mm fan adapter on the 140mm rad and use 120mm fans.
> 
> *Can I fit a 120mm series, 60mm thick radiator in the roof of the case in push/pull?*
> - Yes, the only things that will come in the way are if you are using some ultra-high profile RAM like the corsair dominator. The case has a clearance of 70mm on the inside, and the radiator mounts are offset a bit. Some motherboards might have issues with VRM water blocks and having a 120mm rad in push pull.
> 
> *Can I install a 240mm radiator in the front with both the drive cages in place?*
> - Yes, you can, but one issue you will run into is routing the tubes. The only way to do that would be is to remove the bottom HDD cage mount (held in place with 2 thumb screws). Once that is removed you get about 1.25" of space opened up at the bottom. The drive cages would have to be hung from the top and you can route your tubing from the bottom of both the drive cages.
> 
> *Can I install 2 PSUs in the Enthoo Primo and still use the bottom of the case for a 480mm radiator?*
> - Yes, you can easily do that, as seen in the picture below you would just have to modify the bottom of the case a bit. Either cut the marked part off, or bend it back straight. I would suggest using some Velcro straps to hold the PSU down. A 90 degree angled cable will make the job easier.
> 
> *Can I fit a fat Monsta radiator in push pull with some fan shrouds, and keep the top HDD cage?*
> - Yes, the bottom of the case offers almost 160mm of space before you will hit the bottom of the HDD cage.
> 
> *Can I fit a 280mm radiator in the front of the case?*
> - If you are handy with a dremel yes you can. You would need to modify the 5.25" drive bay to allow for the length of a 280mm radiator.
> 
> *Does anyone know if a 480 rad in the bottom will fit with the upper section of the HDD cage? Can the top section be hung without the need of the bottom section of the cage?*
> - Yes, it will. You have enough space to put in a monsta 480 radiator and still keep the top HDD cage.
> 
> *Does anyone know if I could mount a reservoir above the GPU's? But under the top rear exhaust fan?*
> - Depends on the size of the reservoir you are using, there is space to mount a reservoir on the top. If you also want you cannot use the top 140mm fan and put in a 80mm in its place. That way you will enough space for a longer rad as well.
> 
> *Can I remove the Pahteks badge in the bottom side of the case?*
> - Yes, the badge is held in place by 4 acorn nuts and can be removed.
> 
> *Can the plate in the bottom front panel be removed to help increase the airflow for the front 140mm fans?*
> - Yes, I started a guide on that here:
> http://themodzoo.com/forum/index.php?/topic/865-the-primo-first-wc-enthoo-primo-build/
> 
> 
> 
> *Can I change the LEDs from blue to a different color?*
> - Yes you can. The LED strip used by Phanteks is 5.5mm wide. Guide here:
> http://themodzoo.com/forum/index.php?/topic/883-enthoo-primo-front-led-color-change/
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> *How many fans can I install on the included PWM fan hub?*
> - Out of the box, you can install 8 3-pin fans. The the hub is a PWM to 6 fan, and the case comes with two 3 pin fan splitters, allowing you a total of 8 fans out of the box.
> From the manual
> "PWM hub will enable PWM function to 3-pin fans. Fan 1 can only be connected to one fan and cannot be split. Fan 2 - Fan 6 can
> be split to multiple fans. Total of 11 fans can be connected to the PWM hub. All PWM functions will be controlled by fan 1."
> 
> *How wide is the opening in the 5.25" drive bays for routing tubes?*
> - The opening is 1" wide, routing the thickest of the tubing will not be an issue.
> 
> *How much room between front door and 5.25" bay grill?*
> - Less than 5mm (4.82mm on digital caliper). *doyll
> 
> *Phanteks PWM controlled 3-pin fan hub.*
> From Enthoo Pro manual, page 30
> 
> *18. PWM FAN HUB INSTALLATION*
> 
> The PWM hub functions optimally when modulated by a PWM signal from the motherboard, which will all the greatest control range. However, not all 4-pin motherboard connectors implement the PWM signal modulation.
> *
> Connecting the 4-pin to CPU_FAN*
> For full PWM functionality, Phanteks' PWM hub requires users to connect the 4-pin connector to the "CPU_Fan" connector of the motherboard, because all motherboard manufacturers implements a PWM signal modulation on this connector. Connect the SATA 12V power to power the PWM hub. Not all motherboards have their CPU_Fan connector set on PWM signal modulation by default. Please consult your motherboard documentation for this matter.
> 
> *Connecting the 4-pin to other 4-pin header (besides the CPU_Fan)*
> Other 4-pon connectors can be found on modern motherboards besides the "CPU_Fan" connector (e.g. "CPU_Fan2", "CHA_FAn", "OPT_Fan"), however not all motherboard manufacturers implement a true PWM signal modulation onto these connectors. These type of 4-pin connectors modulate the RPM by voltage, which has a smaller control range compared to modulation by true PWM signal.
> 
> The 12v SATA power cable can not be used to power the PWM hub if connecting to these types of 4-pin connectors, due to the interference with the RPM regulation by voltage (resulting in the fans running on full RPM). The PWM hub will draw it's power from the 4-pin connector, which is limited to a total device consuming 30W in total.
> 
> _Important Note:
> 1 motherboard connector can only read 1 RPM signal. Therefore, the motherboard will only read the RPM signal from1 device connected to FAN 1. The RPM from all other devices will be regulated according to FAN 1. Y-splitter should not be connected to FAN 1._
> 
> *Enthoo Pro info and reviews:*
> Thanks to Dorito Bandit for this fine collection of links!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1418637/official-case-phanteks-club-enthoo-primo-enthoo-pro-lovers-owners/4540_20#post_22561958
> 
> *Please let me know if you have any information, ideas and/or suggestions to improve our Phanteks forum![/B*


----------



## WHIMington

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> I think that is actually a 280, but not sure. Various sources I saw say it can fit a 360 in both tops and front mounting areas. Not enough information to know for sure... But regardless, its nowhere near as big as the primo yet it might actually be able to fit more radiators.


You can go either way, top 360 with front 240, or the other way around. there is not enough room for both to be 360


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WHIMington*
> 
> You can go either way, top 360 with front 240, or the other way around. there is not enough room for both to be 360







Lester from Bitfenix:
Quote:


> This is our new flagship called Atlas, and we designed this case to be extreme water cooling, so right now we have plenty of space. It's a really large case. It can fit four simultaneous 360 radiators inside. ...


I don't know if it really can or not, but the Bitfenix trade show rep is saying it can.








Don't know why I thought you were talking about that bitfenix case mentioned earlier. Sorry.









Anywho, my reply should probably be to one of the posts wondering whether that Bitfenix case really is capable of fitting that much raddage. Just looking at it even if it can it looks like you would be pretty limited in rad thickness and push-pull capability. Whoever built that rig for Computex ought to be ashamed of themselves for a complete lack of cable management.


----------



## WHIMington

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lester from Bitfenix:
> I don't know if it really can or not, but the Bitfenix trade show rep is saying it can.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Don't know why I thought you were talking about that bitfenix case mentioned earlier. Sorry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anywho, my reply should probably be to one of the posts wondering whether that Bitfenix case really is capable of fitting that much raddage. Just looking at it even if it can it looks like you would be pretty limited in rad thickness and push-pull capability. Whoever built that rig for Computex ought to be ashamed of themselves for a complete lack of cable management.


It did depend on rad thickness, but I don't think doing a 60mm with P/P in that case is possible.


----------



## sonnyboy

My current interpretation of a Shoggy-sandwich:


----------



## RnRollie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> Sorry phanteks, you just got bumped! New Bitfenix Atlas is my next case...
> 
> Was about to order the Primo(second one) because I want uber rad space. But looks like the Atlas will be my next. They claim it can hold 4x360mm radiators... And it's nowhere near as big as the primo.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sonnyboy*
> 
> My current interpretation of a Shoggy-sandwich:


somehow, i dont know why, the both the sandwich AND the Bitfenix make me think of this:


----------



## dkevox

Quick question:

When I mount a 240 radiator in the front of the Enthoo Primo, do I need to change the front fans to 120mm fans?

I've read the manual, searched, watched videos, read reviews and nothing gives me the answer. Tried searching this thread, but hoping someone who has done it could tell me quickly. Thanks!


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dkevox*
> 
> Quick question:
> 
> When I mount a 240 radiator in the front of the Enthoo Primo, do I need to change the front fans to 120mm fans?
> 
> I've read the manual, searched, watched videos, read reviews and nothing gives me the answer. Tried searching this thread, but hoping someone who has done it could tell me quickly. Thanks!


I did change to 120 mm fans. I suppose you can use a small screw that would hold the rad in place (120 mm pattern) and then re-install the 140 mm fans over it. Two things you should pay attention however: 1) that the screws holding the rad in place don´t interfere with the 140 mm fan blades. 2) that it might develop some sort of noise due to the difference between the 140 mm fan radius and the rad. Don´t think is likely but something to watch for.

hope it helps


----------



## bond32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dkevox*
> 
> Quick question:
> 
> When I mount a 240 radiator in the front of the Enthoo Primo, do I need to change the front fans to 120mm fans?
> 
> I've read the manual, searched, watched videos, read reviews and nothing gives me the answer. Tried searching this thread, but hoping someone who has done it could tell me quickly. Thanks!


Using a radiator like a 240 with 140mm fans is a bad idea. You are really killing the effectiveness of the radiator. 120mm fans are the way to go for that situation.


----------



## dkevox

Yeah, I kind of wanted to leave those 2x140s up front. But decided I'll move them to the bottom 280 along with the top and bottom fans included with the case to do a push/pull configuration on that radiator (xt45). I'll use the fan hub to control those 4 fans as well as the rear 140 exhaust fan.

Then I just bought 6 of the PH-F140XP to put in push pull on the top 420 radiator (xt45), along with 2 Noiseblocker NB-eLoop to mount to the front 240 (black ice nemesis), along with the swiftech 8-way PWM splitter. Hopefully this should be pretty quiet, except when cpu temps climb while gaming.

Thanks for the help!


----------



## Shingyboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dorito Bandit*
> 
> Shingyboy,
> 
> What will this new build be primarily used for, and what is your budget? Knowing this would help us in helping you. If you're not going to have much to spend on your build, you certainly do not want to use most of your money on a case. That money could be better spent on higher quality components. Just something to consider.
> 
> As for reusing your case, of course you can reuse it for future builds.


Actually my current build I am happy with and I don't think I would completely build a new system, I think at most I want to get a new graphics card but I personally don't feel to happy with my case or power supply so those 2 things I want to change first, then the graphics card. I am primarily going to be gaming.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Do you plan to air cool or go water?
> 
> I use air and know how to setup a a good air system. Others here use water and some have spend well over $1000.00 on their custom loops.
> 
> Keep in mind that closed loop cooling units are no better than top air coolers, are louder, not as dependable, and cost more. Therefore the best choices are either stay with air or go the expense of a good custom loop .. and I do mean expense. Air cooling is about $100 maximum plus maybe a couple good case fans. Custom loops are $400-500 and up. A GPU waterblock can be over $100 by itself. Remember, GPUs make more heat than CPUs.


You know I always look at water cooling builds and they look so awesome but I had no idea of how expensive it could become. and if closed loops are not even better than air coolers what is even the point? I guess perhaps air cooling then? I thought watercooling in general was meant to be quieter than air cooling?


----------



## dkevox

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shingyboy*
> 
> You know I always look at water cooling builds and they look so awesome but I had no idea of how expensive it could become. and if closed loops are not even better than air coolers what is even the point? I guess perhaps air cooling then? I thought watercooling in general was meant to be quieter than air cooling?


Every watercooling system is a closed loop system that I know of. So I'm not sure why it was phrased that way, but I'm pretty sure what he really means is off the shelf all inclusive systems aren't better then air cooling. Like the corsair H100 series stuff.

I don't think those off the shelf systems are horrible for what they are intended to be used for. It's a decent replacement to a really noise cpu heat sink. Sure maybe it doesn't perform better, but it's quieter for the same performance.

Now, if you go custom watercooling (or even start with a decent kit that has most of the parts you need and can be expanded) then you definitely can get a lot better performance and way less noise out of it. But he is correct that to setup a good kit will cost you at least $500-$600 dollars:

Pump: $100
CPU waterblock: $100
GPU waterblock: $130 (x2 for sli)
Radiator(s): $70-$130 each depending on size
Reservoir, tubing, fittings, fluid: $100
Fans: $15/fan (for decent quiet fans)...

So for a loop with a sing triple 140mm radiator in push/pull, a single GPU, and re-using a couple case fans so only buying 4 new fans would be about $600.

That setup would perform better then any air cooling setup and be a lot quieter. The more radiators and fans you add, the lower the rpm you can run on the fans and the quieter the system will be for the same performance.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dkevox*
> 
> Every watercooling system is a closed loop system that I know of. So I'm not sure why it was phrased that way, but I'm pretty sure what he really means is off the shelf all inclusive systems aren't better then air cooling. Like the corsair H100 series stuff.
> 
> I don't think those off the shelf systems are horrible for what they are intended to be used for. It's a decent replacement to a really noise cpu heat sink. Sure maybe it doesn't perform better, but it's quieter for the same performance.
> 
> Now, if you go custom watercooling (or even start with a decent kit that has most of the parts you need and can be expanded) then you definitely can get a lot better performance and way less noise out of it. But he is correct that to setup a good kit will cost you at least $500-$600 dollars:
> 
> Pump: $100
> CPU waterblock: $100
> GPU waterblock: $130 (x2 for sli)
> Radiator(s): $70-$130 each depending on size
> Reservoir, tubing, fittings, fluid: $100
> Fans: $15/fan (for decent quiet fans)...
> 
> So for a loop with a sing triple 140mm radiator in push/pull, a single GPU, and re-using a couple case fans so only buying 4 new fans would be about $600.
> 
> That setup would perform better then any air cooling setup and be a lot quieter. The more radiators and fans you add, the lower the rpm you can run on the fans and the quieter the system will be for the same performance.


Any cooling system used has a cap / plug on them to keep the coolant in the system .. but that is not what a CLC / Closed Loop Cooling systems are.









AIO = All In One = production unit systems with pump, radiator, waterblock and hoses all assembled and filled with coolant. Some AIO systems have provisions for adding coolant, changing coolant, addingcomponents, etc. CLC systems do not. CLC systems are a specific kind of AIO system. All CLC are AIO, but not all AIO are CLC.

CLC = Closed Loop Cooling = pre-built liquid coolers with no provision to remove or add coolant. That is what a CLC / Closed Loop Cooling is!

To date, the best AIO / CLC systems are about the same as the best air cooling systems. In the future I expect to see them become better. Will air cooling continue to be better or match AIO / CLC? Only time will tell. But the cost difference between AIO / CLC and custom loops is huge. A single high end radiator or pump costs as much as a complete AIO / CLC system. So one has to wonder how a AIO / CLC can be of similar quality for so much less money.

Custom water loops are the king of cooling. But as dkevox pointed out abovve, when we start adding up $100 for a waterblock, $100+ for a radiator or a pump, $10-15 each for fittings, $15-20 for fans, etc, they can easily be $1000.. sometimes several times that.. well. ...

Many of us find it very hard to justify that kind of expense when air is keeping our systems below 60c and 30dBA. for less than $100 for a top of the line air cooler. And our girlfriends / boyfriends often threaten us with serious bodily harm if we even consider it.


----------



## dkevox

Got it, I guess I need to catch up on the terminology. But every water cooling system I know of runs a closed loops. We aren't talking open loop systems where the coolant is supplied from something external, like say how a jetski uses lake water to cool the motor... So a bit confusing terminology.

I've been running custom watercooling since 2005. The "off the shelf" systems have never performed any better then the good air coolers so I wouldn't expect that anytime soon. But you could buy good builder kits for ~ $250 that performed well and had room to expand.

Most of that price for the custom watercooling comes from adding in the GPU. To me it's pretty obvious if you are going watercooling to also cool the GPU, or you haven't really solved the noise issue much.

But, then that's not a fair comparison. So if you want to step into watercooling for cheap and have a good performing system just to cool the cpu you could get everything for probably close to $300. You can get a good dual 120mm radiator for $60, a $20 reservoir, add a couple cheap $7 Yate loon fans in push configuration and you'd be close to $300 with pump and waterblock and tubing.

Not a bad way to get into it and would be modular for the future. There's a lot of costs that are one time costs, I'm still on my first pump bought in 2005 and it runs great. radiators/reservoirs last forever. After you have it setup all you need to do is just add $100 to every new cpu or gpu you buy for the waterblock to go with it. Not too bad.


----------



## schoolofmonkey

Well got my new Red LED fans, bloody led cable won't reach the plugs at the top of the Primo case, and they didn't come with an extension cable, but they came with a little switch and as I didn't plan on turning them off its ok.

The rubber mounts make a HUGE difference in vibrations, the fans if you touch the back of them have a vibration, but its not transferring to the case.
Have a new fan squeak in one, but you can't hear it once the side is on, and it will settle in time, (Yes I have super sensitive hearing due to tinnitus, anything different from my "normal" ringing I hear really well).

You can't see the Noctua fans once the side of the case is on, so no biggy..

http://s1294.photobucket.com/user/schoolofmonkey2/media/20140725_125725_zps59894443.jpg.html


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dkevox*
> 
> Got it, I guess I need to catch up on the terminology. But every water cooling system I know of runs a closed loops. We aren't talking open loop systems where the coolant is supplied from something external, like say how a jetski uses lake water to cool the motor... So a bit confusing terminology.
> 
> I've been running custom watercooling since 2005. The "off the shelf" systems have never performed any better then the good air coolers so I wouldn't expect that anytime soon. But you could buy good builder kits for ~ $250 that performed well and had room to expand.
> 
> Most of that price for the custom watercooling comes from adding in the GPU. To me it's pretty obvious if you are going watercooling to also cool the GPU, or you haven't really solved the noise issue much.
> 
> But, then that's not a fair comparison. So if you want to step into watercooling for cheap and have a good performing system just to cool the cpu you could get everything for probably close to $300. You can get a good dual 120mm radiator for $60, a $20 reservoir, add a couple cheap $7 Yate loon fans in push configuration and you'd be close to $300 with pump and waterblock and tubing.
> 
> Not a bad way to get into it and would be modular for the future. There's a lot of costs that are one time costs, I'm still on my first pump bought in 2005 and it runs great. radiators/reservoirs last forever. After you have it setup all you need to do is just add $100 to every new cpu or gpu you buy for the waterblock to go with it. Not too bad.


Indeed.








I agree with you except for just cooling CPU on H2O.

If only cooling one component the GPU is the logical choice to me .. generates the most heat, is the loudest component and has the worst design for keeping case cool.

While the CPU will run cool and quiet on a good air cooler without any of the above problems or issues.

I assumed CPU waterblocks were universal mounting .. similar to air cooler mounting. Just show what I don't know.


----------



## Screetch82

I now placed my order:

Enthoo Primo Case White
Gigabyte Z97X-UD5H (already got it delivered+20% cashback)
i7-4790k (got it for cheap in the US)
1x Aquacomputer cuplex kryos Delrin
1x Alphacool NexXxoS UT60 Full Copper 480mm
1x Alphacool NexXxoS XT45 Full Copper 420mm ( i'll use 3 of the 5 fans that come with the case for push for now)
1x Aquacomputer Aquastream XT USB 12V
8x Noiseblocker NB-BlackSilentPRO PL2
1x Alphacool Cape Fuzion Core 10

I somewhat forgot to order the aqaous 5 XT fan controller..so I will use the Primo's PWM hub as well as the mobos fan controllers..
I also order 2 RGB moduls for 15 as well as 2 ball valves for 14 Euros.. so sending that back will almost buy me a fan controller if i need to.

I will reuse my Seasonic PSU, 780ti, 16GB 2133 TridentX memory and harddrives.

Norman


----------



## oldcompgeek

Hello to everyone! I love the looks and functionality of the enthoo Primo (White) but made a fateful decision about a month ago based on price instead of value. I had been on the fence between the Primo and the Corsair 760T and the InWin GRone went on sale for like 100 bucks and I pulled the trigger .... it's okay but not satisied. I have been reading the thread trying to get more insight into the functionality of the case and do have one question that hopefully one of y'all could answer. Do you have to stuff the case with multiple huge rads and reservoirs,etc.. for things to look right, or can someone thats just using a h320 and an x61 along with the 990fxa-ud7 pull it off without the case looking empty? I had built an Aerocool Strike-X S.T. previously that looked empty with an Asrock Fatality mobo, and air cooling installed. Just don't want it to make the mobo look like a micro atx... ha ha. If it's that large then it may be a better choice to go with the newer, albeit smaller version. Thanks for all of the info at the beginning of the thread OP.


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *oldcompgeek*
> 
> Hello to everyone! I love the looks and functionality of the enthoo Primo (White) but made a fateful decision about a month ago based on price instead of value. I had been on the fence between the Primo and the Corsair 760T and the InWin GRone went on sale for like 100 bucks and I pulled the trigger .... it's okay but not satisied. I have been reading the thread trying to get more insight into the functionality of the case and do have one question that hopefully one of y'all could answer. Do you have to stuff the case with multiple huge rads and reservoirs,etc.. for things to look right, or can someone thats just using a h320 and an x61 along with the 990fxa-ud7 pull it off without the case looking empty? I had built an Aerocool Strike-X S.T. previously that looked empty with an Asrock Fatality mobo, and air cooling installed. Just don't want it to make the mobo look like a micro atx... ha ha. If it's that large then it may be a better choice to go with the newer, albeit smaller version. Thanks for all of the info at the beginning of the thread OP.


Should have bought an Enthoo Pro a month ago for $100. Sounds like that case is a better fit for you than a Primo.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *oldcompgeek*
> 
> Hello to everyone! I love the looks and functionality of the enthoo Primo (White) but made a fateful decision about a month ago based on price instead of value. I had been on the fence between the Primo and the Corsair 760T and the InWin GRone went on sale for like 100 bucks and I pulled the trigger .... it's okay but not satisied. I have been reading the thread trying to get more insight into the functionality of the case and do have one question that hopefully one of y'all could answer. Do you have to stuff the case with multiple huge rads and reservoirs,etc.. for things to look right, or can someone thats just using a h320 and an x61 along with the 990fxa-ud7 pull it off without the case looking empty? I had built an Aerocool Strike-X S.T. previously that looked empty with an Asrock Fatality mobo, and air cooling installed. Just don't want it to make the mobo look like a micro atx... ha ha. If it's that large then it may be a better choice to go with the newer, albeit smaller version. Thanks for all of the info at the beginning of the thread OP.


Enthoo Primo is quite big, but it looks fine even with air cooling .. at least I think it does.

For size comparison,
InWin GRone = 245 x 562 x 593mm (W x H x D)
Enthoo Primo = 250 x 650 x 600mm
Enthoo Luxe . = 235 x 560 x 550mm
Enthoo Pro . = . 235 x 535 x 550mm

Luxe and Pro share the same case with different fronts and tops

Primo and Luxe have similar looks with Luxe having more lights and selectable lighting colors. Both has similar front and top looks. I prefer the Primo and Luxe .. Luxe for more confined spaces. Many prefer the Pro.


----------



## GOLDDUBBY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Screetch82*
> 
> I now placed my order:
> 
> Enthoo Primo Case White
> Gigabyte Z97X-UD5H (already got it delivered+20% cashback)
> i7-4790k (got it for cheap in the US)
> 1x Aquacomputer cuplex kryos Delrin
> 1x Alphacool NexXxoS UT60 Full Copper 480mm
> 1x Alphacool NexXxoS XT45 Full Copper 420mm ( i'll use 3 of the 5 fans that come with the case for push for now)
> 1x Aquacomputer Aquastream XT USB 12V
> 8x Noiseblocker NB-BlackSilentPRO PL2
> 1x Alphacool Cape Fuzion Core 10
> 
> I somewhat forgot to order the aqaous 5 XT fan controller..so I will use the Primo's PWM hub as well as the mobos fan controllers..
> I also order 2 RGB moduls for 15 as well as 2 ball valves for 14 Euros.. so sending that back will almost buy me a fan controller if i need to.
> 
> I will reuse my Seasonic PSU, 780ti, 16GB 2133 TridentX memory and harddrives.
> 
> Norman


Try to stay away from push. The dust build-up between the fan and the radiator is horrific.


----------



## bond32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GOLDDUBBY*
> 
> Try to stay away from push. The dust build-up between the fan and the radiator is horrific.


???

If dust is that much of a concern, then don't cool your computer. It's going to be there, cleaning dust is part of it.

Fans in push on radiators have a slight performance advantage over pull.


----------



## GOLDDUBBY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> ???
> 
> If dust is that much of a concern, then don't cool your computer. It's going to be there, cleaning dust is part of it.
> 
> Fans in push on radiators have a slight performance advantage over pull.


No. The performance is exactly the same. As is the laws of physics

In push the dust build up will block all airflow through the radiator fins, and then like you said "don't cool your computer" anymore.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

There are definitely performance differences between push and pull that can vary from the type of fan and rad used. They are not 'exactly the same". In general with normal speed fans push often does a little better than pull alone.

example:

http://martinsliquidlab.org/2012/01/15/radiator-shroud-testing-v2/3/

 < lower is better









I've never run into issues with dust clogging a rad as long as all my intakes are filtered. Then again, I use an air compressor to blow the dust out of the filters out and blow the whole case out often, and I never run a computer very close to the floor.


----------



## GOLDDUBBY

0,26 °C degree difference









I use push-pull on all my rads, and even then there is slight dust build up.

Some people have more issues with dust than others, and if you do, then that 0,26 °C overhead will get eaten up by the dust blockage quite rapidly. But that's just my experience.

It's one of those decisions we are faced with when building a computer.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

So there you go. Even more evidence that push and pull are not 'exactly the same".

BTW, your chart is from Martin's first round of push vs pull vs push-pull vs shroud vs no shroud testing. The one I posted is his revised round two testing using a better methodology that gave even more mixed results. There's not a hard rule that one is better than the other but they are not "the same".

I think it's Linus who often says things like there's no difference between push or pull and pull is better for dust without a shred of evidence to back up his claims. Yet another example of how wrong he is sooooo often. He's ok for an unboxing of something new, but when he starts saying things as if they are 'fact' you really might want to double check him on it.


----------



## doyll

I'ts commonly accepted by engineers that pushing is better than pulling.
Part of the reason is the density of the air.
A fan pulling air though a radiator has less density going into fan than a fan pushing air into radiator.
Less density in means less density out .. mean less airflow when pulling through resistance than pushing into resistance.

Same applies to pumping liquids with impellers. Impeller cannot pull liquid as higll as it can push liquid.
Impellers start suffering from "cavitation" (air bubbles forming on low pressure side of impeller) .. the same principle as air density on intake vs exhaust sides of fan.


----------



## GOLDDUBBY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> So there you go. Even more evidence that push and pull are not 'exactly the same".
> 
> BTW, your chart is from Martin's first round of push vs pull vs push-pull vs shroud vs no shroud testing. The one I posted is his revised round two testing using a better methodology that gave even more mixed results. There's not a hard rule that one is better than the other but they are not "the same".
> 
> I think it's Linus who often says things like there's no difference between push or pull and pull is better for dust without a shred of evidence to back up his claims. Yet another example of how wrong he is sooooo often. He's ok for an unboxing of something new, but when he starts saying things as if they are 'fact' you really might want to double check him on it.


Well, yes but 0,26 °C .. when you might end up with a clogged radiator

It's not like it's a new unheard of issue now is it


----------



## GOLDDUBBY




----------



## GOLDDUBBY

All he really proved was that the fans he used in the test have an abnormality which makes them have less static pressure in pull than in push. The difference being so slight that it really bares no significance.

A clogged radiator on the other hand, will bare massive significance.


----------



## Screetch82

good discussion. Doesnt really matter to me if it is push or pull. For now I have all the rad space for just the CPU. Once the new GTX880 or a R390x come out I will get either one of them watercooled and will link it in. At this stay I will also move to push pull for the upper 420rad.

I have enough fans I want to control via the mobo.. and I can easily add 3 more later. I dont need to have this all at once.


----------



## GOLDDUBBY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Screetch82*
> 
> good discussion. Doesnt really matter to me if it is push or pull. For now I have all the rad space for just the CPU. Once the new GTX880 or a R390x come out I will get either one of them watercooled and will link it in. At this stay I will also move to push pull for the upper 420rad.
> 
> I have enough fans I want to control via the mobo.. and I can easily add 3 more later. I dont need to have this all at once.


It's a very old discussion. In all situations it's better to use pull, unless you live in a clinically dust free environment.


----------



## Screetch82

ok pull it is. might actually work easier too since the fans all come into the top bay right under the mesh which is also used to screw down the radiator.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GOLDDUBBY*


Proves nothing.

Air with dust in it going into radiator has the dust collect on radiator regardless of which side the fan is on.








If your "theory" was correct, why is all this dust on the grill in front of fan?


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GOLDDUBBY*
> 
> It's a very old discussion. In all situations it's better to use pull, unless you live in a clinically dust free environment.


And the earth is flat too.


----------



## bond32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> I'ts commonly accepted by engineers that pushing is better than pulling.
> Part of the reason is the density of the air.
> A fan pulling air though a radiator has less density going into fan than a fan pushing air into radiator.
> Less density in means less density out .. mean less airflow when pulling through resistance than pushing into resistance.
> 
> Same applies to pumping liquids with impellers. Impeller cannot pull liquid as higll as it can push liquid.
> Impellers start suffering from "cavitation" (air bubbles forming on low pressure side of impeller) .. the same principle as air density on intake vs exhaust sides of fan.


Oh my goodness. Thank you. As an engineer who designs HVAC and plumbing, I appreciate this comment.

Edit: regarding the discussion, I would recommend you use whatever allows for the best looks/function. For example, if you can fit the fans in push which would show the radiator more and you prefer that, go for that. If you can fit pull but not push, it isn't a big deal at all. If you would rather see the fans and want pull, go for that - but for the love of god don't use SP-120's because you want to see the stupid color ring as they exhaust air in that orientation.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GOLDDUBBY*


And there it is. That image is from 



 there's no difference between push-pull or push or pull and then he uses that high fin density rad which ran for a year with no filter in a test bench on a carpeted floor as an example of why pull is better for cleaning sake. That's ridiculous. If all your intakes in a case are filtered you will never see anything like that. Linus says a bunch of other provably wrong stuff in that vid too as if it's fact. That's a perfect example vid to show what an idiot Linus really is and why everything he says as if it is fact should be cast in doubt.

If you make sure all your intakes (fans sucking air into the case from outside) are filtered, don't run an intake next to the floor, and periodically blow out your filters and occasionally your case, then by all means run your fans however you prefer whether in push or pull or best yet performance-wise, in push-pull.


----------



## bond32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> And there it is. That image is from
> 
> 
> 
> there's no difference between push-pull or push or pull and then he uses that high fin density rad which ran for a year with no filter in a test bench on a carpeted floor as an example of why pull is better for cleaning sake. That's ridiculous. If all your intakes in a case are filtered you will never see anything like that. Linus says a bunch of other provably wrong stuff in that vid too as if it's fact. That's a perfect example vid to show what an idiot Linus really is and why everything he says as if it is fact should be cast in doubt.
> 
> If you make sure all your intakes (fans sucking air into the case from outside) are filtered, don't run an intake next to the floor, and periodically blow out your filters and occasionally your case, then by all means run your fans however you prefer whether in push or pull or best yet performance-wise, in push-pull.


Agreed. And honestly, if you're on this site you actually care about performance. So knowing your performance is hurt by dirty radiators, wouldn't that be more incentive to clean it often?


----------



## chrisnyc75

All fans should be intake (positive pressure); all fans should be filtered. This was settled eons ago; stop beating the dead horse, folks.


----------



## doyll

Sadly, more testing and reviewing is done by Iidentity ten teas* than people who know what the are doing. Using room temperature as a baseline when testing coolers is a perfect example. Stuff a system into a stock case and keep a reacord for comparison of all the coolers tested in that system. .. All that give us is the performance of said coolers i that exact system. .. Which has little bearing on how well the cooler is actually performing.









Then they point out how much better CLCs perform than air coolers. .. and how the coolers with high performance fans run almost the same temps as standard fan coolers.









But they can't understand the simple fact that a 110+cfm fan with high static pressure spec blowing air in a case with 2x 60cfm low pressure intkae and another on rear exhaust cannot supply cool air to cooler intake and remove all the heated air it is pushing out.





































*ID10T


----------



## dkevox

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GOLDDUBBY*
> 
> No. The performance is exactly the same. As is the laws of physics.


I love this comment. Are you saying the laws of physics "is" exactly the same? Or by your later admittance that there is a performance difference, does that mean the laws of physics now "isn't" exactly the same?

Not that that even makes any sense either way lol.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chrisnyc75*
> 
> All fans should be intake (positive pressure); all fans should be filtered. This was settled eons ago; stop beating the dead horse, folks.


Yes!
And the fans need to pull air through the filters so they don't collect dust.


----------



## GOLDDUBBY

Why are you guys even arguing this? The first statement in the debate "if you don't like dust don't cool your computer" pretty much sums up the brilliance of the rest of the arguments.

Pull - can have a 0,5 degree Celsius less efficiency.

Push - clogs radiators.

Go with what ever suits you the best!


----------



## dkevox

$3









On a serious note: whether in push or pull you still need one of those and to do periodic cleaning of the radiators. How often obviously depends on individual situation: if you're computer is on 24/7 and sitting on carpeted floor with pets then quite a bit more often then if it's on a few hours a day and sits on a desk in a clean apartment.


----------



## bond32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GOLDDUBBY*
> 
> Why are you guys even arguing this? The first statement in the debate "if you don't like dust don't cool your computer" pretty much sums up the brilliance of the rest of the arguments.
> 
> Pull - can have a 0,5 degree Celsius less efficiency.
> 
> Push - clogs radiators.
> 
> Go with what ever suits you the best!


For one, I said if you're THAT much concerned about dust, not "if you don't like dust".

Two, saying that fans in push clogs radiators isn't wrong, but rather it's bad advice. It's like saying someone could go 4 months if they ran push fans before cleaning, where if you went pull you could go 4 months and 3 days before cleaning the same amount of dust... It's negligible.


----------



## RnRollie

Alas.. this is the internet... and the loudest or cutest "messengers" are spreading "the truth"1

I hear the latest edition of "The Hollow Earth" is selling well, and thanks to new proven facts² & new information³ is gaining lots of followers again....

Now, for something completely different...
How would some discrete nuances do on a Primo? You know, like a fine "pinstripe" along a bevelled edge...

1. that is to say: their version of the truth
2. rehashing 200 year old ramblings of a madman
3. there IS a tunnel going from the Vatican to the center of the earth - the cousin of the son of the maid that works for the brother of a Padre told me so


----------



## GOLDDUBBY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dkevox*
> 
> I love this comment. Are you saying the laws of physics "is" exactly the same? Or by your later admittance that there is a performance difference, does that mean the laws of physics now "isn't" exactly the same?
> 
> Not that that even makes any sense either way lol.


Referring to Newton's third law of physics. Guess he aint got nothing on a guy like you tho, ey









FA2 = −FB2

To make it simple,
A force (the fan) Pushing vs Sucking, with the same amount of power should generate the same equal pressure on either side.

Such an old discussion.. jeez


----------



## GOLDDUBBY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> ???
> 
> If dust is that much of a concern, then don't cool your computer. It's going to be there, cleaning dust is part of it.
> 
> Fans in push on radiators have a slight performance advantage over pull.


It's was only meant as a kind recommendation, to save him some trouble of dust build up.

Yes cleaning is a part of life








How ever a pull configuration is usually alot easier to clean, when it doesn't mean you need to unscrew everything and take off the fans etc, to get all that massive build up from fans spinning on a radiator in push.

The "performance advantage" is highly negligible, if it even exists. 0,5 °c was shown in a random test. Maybe one was done mid day, the other in the evening when it was lower ambient .. and for how long do you think that 0,5°c will last? A week maybe? Until it starts to build up dust and clog. After that fact, the push-config only becomes a huge disadvantage. Both on performance and the cleaning aspect.

Need more performance, that is actually sustainable and noticeable, then get a better fan.

Bottom line:
Push equal Pull in performance +/- 0,5°c
Push might build up dust blockage.

Use pull and save yourself some trouble.

Either way, they guy said he's is going with pushANDpull eventually. So this discussion won't even matter.

But general rule of thumb:
Always make sure your fans are in Pull configuration!! For better longterm performance, and less hassle.


----------



## RnRollie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GOLDDUBBY*
> 
> Referring to Newton's third law of physics. Guess he aint got nothing on a guy like you tho, ey
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> FA2 = −FB2
> 
> To make it simple,
> *A force (the fan) Pushing vs Sucking, with the same amount of power should generate the same equal pressure on either side.*
> 
> Such an old discussion.. jeez


....providing neither side is restricted...

bolt them to a radiator and the equation changes


----------



## GOLDDUBBY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RnRollie*
> 
> ....providing neither side is restricted...
> 
> bolt them to a radiator and the equation changes


Yes.
Aperantly 0.5°c can be earned, until you get dust build up that blocks the passage. As we seen happen time after time, after time, after time, after time, after time again......

But some people obviously seem to think dust is a myth. I wonder if they live in a lab of some sort, or if they just never have taken a fan of a radiator before.


----------



## WHIMington

I am completely lost









Can anyone do a summary on what have been discuses here?


----------



## fateswarm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chrisnyc75*
> 
> All fans should be intake (positive pressure); all fans should be filtered. This was settled eons ago; stop beating the dead horse, folks.


No need to settle it with catch phrases. Tell them to use common sense. If you must protect the insides from dust everything that goes in is filtered, everything that goes out can be ignored.

PS. If you turn it off that last bit is a bit not accurate.


----------



## chrisnyc75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GOLDDUBBY*
> 
> Why are you guys even arguing this? The first statement in the debate "if you don't like dust don't cool your computer" pretty much sums up the brilliance of the rest of the arguments.
> 
> Pull - can have a 0,5 degree Celsius less efficiency.
> 
> Push - clogs radiators.
> 
> Go with what ever suits you the best!


Push does not clog radiators.
Pull does not clog radiators.
Unfiltered fans clog radiators.

Anyhow, may I suggest somebody starts the umpteen-billionth thread on this topic and let this thread get back to being the official Phanteks case club?


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GOLDDUBBY*
> 
> It's was only meant as a kind recommendation, to save him some trouble of dust build up.


Suggesting something that is not true is not kind.








Not kind at all.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GOLDDUBBY*
> 
> Yes.
> Aperantly 0.5°c can be earned, until you get dust build up that blocks the passage. As we seen happen time after time, after time, after time, after time, after time again......
> 
> But some people obviously seem to think dust is a myth. I wonder if they live in a lab of some sort, or if they just never have taken a fan of a radiator before.


The same dust and lint that is being pushed into radiator by the fan will be pulled into radiator by fan pulling air through the radiator.








It really is that simple to explain.









As for equal pressure that is wrong.

Pushing air into a restrictive cooler / radiator allows fan to use ambient air pressure to feed the fan.
Pulling air from a restrictive cooler / radiator mean ambient pressure is dropping as it is pulled through the

restriction...
meaning it is less dense... it is being expanded as it is being pulled through the restriction...
which means there is not as much air being supplied / going into the fan pulling air as is supplied / going into a fan pushing air..

Granted, it is not much difference, but it is a difference. And that difference means less airflow pulling than pushing through a radiator or cooler.

Like I originally explained:
Quote:


> Originally Posted by doyll
> 
> I'ts commonly accepted by engineers that pushing is better than pulling.
> Part of the reason is the density of the air.
> A fan pulling air though a radiator has less density going into fan than a fan pushing air into radiator.
> Less density in means less density out .. mean less airflow when pulling through resistance than pushing into resistance.
> 
> Same applies to pumping liquids with impellers. Impeller cannot pull liquid as higll as it can push liquid.
> Impellers start suffering from "cavitation" (air bubbles forming on low pressure side of impeller) .. the same principle as air density on intake vs exhaust sides of fan. biggrin.gif


All you need to verify what I am saying is look at forced air heating and cooling systems. Look at pumps moving water from deep wells or up the many floors of a hi-rise building. They all push the air or water, not pull... and they do for the reasons stated above.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chrisnyc75*
> 
> Push does not clog radiators.
> Pull does not clog radiators.
> _Unfiltered fans clog radiators._
> 
> Anyhow, may I suggest somebody starts the umpteen-billionth thread on this topic and let this thread get back to being the official Phanteks case club?


Nooooo!!!!!








I have never seen a fan clogging a radiator!








The dust, lint, etc. in *unfiltered AIR* clogs radiators .. and coolers .. and grills.

The fan only increase the amount of air (and therefore the amount of _particulates_) that can collect and clog the radiator.









Decided it was time to use some big words.


----------



## chrisnyc75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Nooooo!!!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have never seen a fan clogging a radiator!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The dust, lint, etc. in *unfiltered AIR* clogs radiators .. and coolers .. and grills.
> 
> The fan only increase the amount of air (and therefore the amount of _particulates_) that can collect and clog the radiator.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Decided it was time to use some big words.


lol you got me there.

Though I do like the mental image of a radiator clogged with fans. What exactly would that look like? lol


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chrisnyc75*
> 
> lol you got me there.
> 
> Though I do like the mental image of a radiator clogged with fans. What exactly would that look like? lol


----------



## bond32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chrisnyc75*
> 
> Push does not clog radiators.
> Pull does not clog radiators.
> Unfiltered fans clog radiators.
> 
> Anyhow, may I suggest somebody starts the umpteen-billionth thread on this topic and *let this thread get back to being the official Phanteks case club?*


Is it really so bad that we have a discussion? Why do so many people think discussions mean everyone is arguing... And why do we need to keep the thread void of any discussion...

Not to play devil's advocate, but inductive fans are widely used too, but in the engineering world a fan is a pump - a device which generates FLOW (I say that in caps because its common to say a pump generates pressure which is technically incorrect). Say, for example, at a powerplant here in the state of TN, which when this powerplant was constructed it was the largest in the world (coal). They installed two "axial" fans to supply the scrubber after the new epa standards (scrubber removes sulfur and other harmful stuff). The two massive axial fans are inductive. The pressure drop that the scrubber added which those axial fans have to compensate for is so great, that the power required to simply run the entire coal plant now requires 1 of the 9 boilers to be online at all times.

What does all this mean? Nothing really. Comparing large, real world examples to these small applications aren't always accurate. My opinion? You're on this site, you care about performance. Even if its such a small increase to run push over pull, why would you not? Because of dust? Seems silly to me.


----------



## skydog71

You guys know what is even better for dust than a fan in pull? No fan at all! If you aren't pushing air through your radiator, you can't get dust in it.









Ironically, the dust experiment is a fantastic example of why fans are better in push. If a radiator in push gets 30% more dust than a radiator in pull, that means that the radiator in push has 30% more air flowing through the radiator than the radiator in pull.


----------



## GOLDDUBBY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*


^ that's how it's done in Australia









Found the vid xD hahaha


----------



## GOLDDUBBY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skydog71*
> 
> You guys know what is even better for dust than a fan in pull? No fan at all! If you aren't pushing air through your radiator, you can't get dust in it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ironically, the dust experiment is a fantastic example of why fans are better in push. If a radiator in push gets 30% more dust than a radiator in pull, that means that the radiator in push has 30% more air flowing through the radiator than the radiator in pull.


Nope it means fans typically used in computers don't have enough airflow to push dust away from the radiator fins, and instead spin the dust on to them.
In pull, the dust isn't spinned and pressed to the fins, it's pulled through. There's still dust getting hooked, but it's easier to clean for the backside of the radiator, rather than between the fan and the radiator.

With push+pull the static pressure is far greater and allows for more airflow, which results in less dust build up.

Years of experience tells us Pull works better. Everyone knows this. The discussion was just spinned of by someone that likes discussing, for the purpose of discussing. I bet a million dollars and more that bond32 has all his radiator fans in pull, or push-pull. He knows this just as well as anyone, he's just being funny and starting a debate. Which has been solved for almost a decade ago.


----------



## bond32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GOLDDUBBY*
> 
> Nope it means fans typically used in computers don't have enough airflow to push dust away from the radiator fins, and instead spin the dust on to them. In pull, the dust isn't spinned and pressed to something, it's pulled through.
> 
> With push+pull the static pressure is far greater and allows for more airflow, which results in less dust build up.
> 
> Years of experience tells us Pull works better. Everyone knows this. The discussion was just spinned of by someone that likes discussing, for the purpose of discussing. I bet a million dollars and more that bond32 has all his radiator fans in pull or push-pull. He knows this just as well as anyone, he's just being funny and starting a debate. Which has been solved for almost a decade ago.


I only have 2 rads in at the moment, a monsta 240 in push/pull and a st30 360 in push. I change it so often though... And to be honest, I don't care if its push or pull, I go for whatever looks better or what fits since push + pull won't fit in the top of the Enthoo Pro.

Edit: and yes, I like discussions. I like arguments even sometimes, but they often aren't allowed here. As a frequent member here I get tired and bored of seeing posts like "will this xxx rad fit????!?" or "will this h100i fit here??!", so discussing something that is actually related to my field is a welcome change.


----------



## dkevox

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GOLDDUBBY*
> 
> Referring to Newton's third law of physics. Guess he aint got nothing on a guy like you tho, ey
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> FA2 = −FB2
> 
> To make it simple,
> A force (the fan) Pushing vs Sucking, with the same amount of power should generate the same equal pressure on either side.
> 
> Such an old discussion.. jeez


Well, for a physics guy you think you'd understand that there is no such thing as "sucking". The actual way that air is moved when a fan is setup in "pull" is to create an area of lower pressure so that the higher pressure air then diffuses into that space

This has nothing to do with newtons third law. The only forces being exerted are by the air on the blades, and the vice-versa of the force of the blades on the air. Newtons third law deals nothing with flowing air or thermodynamic systems.

However, the statement that "the laws of physics" are all the same is still priceless









That's what you said, unless you don't know what an analogy is and just happened to have formed one. Or maybe you think there is only one "laws of physcs" which would explain the improper use of "is" in your previous post. It's called Newton's "third" law cause he has other laws, including a "first" and "second". But his aren't the only "laws". So...

And in case you still think it's the same either way. A simple way to see for yourself there is a difference is to put your mouth over a piece of paper on your desk and suck as hard as you possibly can. Did the paper move? Now blow from that same distance, did you see an equal and opposite effect? (make sure you try it from multiple angles and near the edge to get a good sample group to make sure it always reacts the same but opposite way







)


----------



## GOLDDUBBY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dkevox*
> 
> Well, for a physics guy you think you'd understand that there is no such thing as "sucking". The actual way that air is moved when a fan is setup in "pull" is to create an area of lower pressure so that the higher pressure air then diffuses into that space
> 
> This has nothing to do with newtons third law. The only forces being exerted are by the air on the blades, and the vice-versa of the force of the blades on the air. Newtons third law deals nothing with flowing air or thermodynamic systems.
> 
> However, the statement that "the laws of physics" are all the same is still priceless
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's what you said, unless you don't know what an analogy is and just happened to have formed one.


Please, No. Just stop.. lol


----------



## skydog71

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GOLDDUBBY*
> 
> Nope it means fans typically used in computers don't have enough airflow to push dust away from the radiator fins, and instead spin the dust on to them.
> In pull, the dust isn't spinned and pressed to the fins, it's pulled through. There's still dust getting hooked, but it's easier to clean for the backside of the radiator, rather than between the fan and the radiator.
> 
> With push+pull the static pressure is far greater and allows for more airflow, which results in less dust build up.
> 
> Years of experience tells us Pull works better. Everyone knows this. The discussion was just spinned of by someone that likes discussing, for the purpose of discussing. I bet a million dollars and more that bond32 has all his radiator fans in pull, or push-pull. He knows this just as well as anyone, he's just being funny and starting a debate. Which has been solved for almost a decade ago.


I am going to slightly concede here and agree that pulling is sometimes better. I've never experienced it in any of my testing, but after doing some brief research, it looks like some people have. I guess it depends on how how your fan is engineered, the speed you are running it at, the design & thickness of your radiator, whether there is positive or negative air pressure in your case, etc.

But I am 100% certain that pushing is sometimes better. Back when I was a poor college kid without any money, I did extensive testing with my ghetto kingwin heatsink and single 120mm fan. Pushing was significantly better.


----------



## Screetch82

So which direction do I use? I was gonna blow air out of the case with two rads

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## bond32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Screetch82*
> 
> So which direction do I use? I was gonna blow air out of the case with two rads
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


Def don't do that... Radiators work by bringing in the cool ambient not other way around.


----------



## dkevox

With dual radiators why not have one exhausting air out the back and one intaking air. Run the water first through the exhaust radiator, then route it through the intake. That way you keep the inside of the case cooler, but still get the water the coldest to keep your cpu/gpu as cool as possible.


----------



## RnRollie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chrisnyc75*
> 
> Push does not clog radiators.
> Pull does not clog radiators.
> Unfiltered fans clog radiators.
> 
> *Anyhow, may I suggest somebody starts the umpteen-billionth thread on this topic and let* this thread get back to being the official Phanteks case club?


Actually, i'ld like to see it on wikipedia.. that way the whole world can chime in and the end result will a close to "the truth" as possible.

And every time the subject shows up, people can pointed to the wikipedia entry


----------



## bond32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dkevox*
> 
> With dual radiators why not have one exhausting air out the back and one intaking air. Run the water first through the exhaust radiator, then route it through the intake. That way you keep the inside of the case cooler, but still get the water the coldest to keep your cpu/gpu as cool as possible.


Loop order doesn't matter. The fluid will reach an equilibrium temperature. And yeah, order does not matter as long as the pump(s) pull from the reservoir.


----------



## RnRollie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> I only have 2 rads in at the moment, a monsta 240 in push/pull and a st30 360 in push. I change it so often though... And to be honest, I don't care if its push or pull, I go for whatever looks better or what fits since push + pull won't fit in the top of the Enthoo Pro.
> 
> Edit: and yes, I like discussions. I like arguments even sometimes, but they often aren't allowed here. As a frequent member here I get tired and bored of seeing posts like "will this xxx rad fit????!?" or "will this h100i fit here??!", so discussing something that is actually related to my field is a welcome change.


So.... lets add shrouds between fans & rads.
Given that these shrouds are not the "regular" plexi Phobya ones, but some unpronounceable chinese brand ; And that they came by a Korean build cargo ship, registered under Liberian flag, which navigated around Cape Good Hope with twelve deckhands on board...
If add red LEDs to the shroud between rad & fan (pull), will it cool better than having blue leds on the shroud between fan & rad (push)?










PS: how old is the captain?


----------



## chrisnyc75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RnRollie*
> 
> Actually, i'ld like to see it on wikipedia.. that way the whole world can chime in and the end result will a close to "the truth" as possible.
> 
> And every time the subject shows up, people can pointed to the wikipedia entry


Not a terrible idea, although I think wikipedia is more inclined toward verifiable fact than "well supported arguments". There's no way to classify which fan configuration is 'best' as fact.

There is, however, an entry on positive pressure: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Positive_pressure

"Use is also made of positive pressure to ensure there is no ingress of the environment into a supposed closed system." - In other words, all fans should be intake; all fans should be filtered.


----------



## RnRollie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dkevox*
> 
> With dual radiators why not have one exhausting air out the back and one intaking air. Run the water first through the exhaust radiator, then route it through the intake. That way you keep the inside of the case cooler, but still get the water the coldest to keep your cpu/gpu as cool as possible.


Because that is not how watercooling (or for that matter, air or most other type of heat exchangers) work.

It only seems to work that way if you take a snapshot in time.

But in reality its a loop

You have to imagine it like this: there a guy in a boat in a circuitous loop... a "tunnel of love" fairground attraction if you will









Every time his boat passes the 50°C "hot" CPU , he grabs no more as 2°C and takes it with him.
When the boat pass the radiator, he hands over upto 2°C(oftenless) to the radiator, then continues his journey.
_note: If the radiator is unable to accept his full 2°C, he hands over what the rad accepts and/or takes the remainder (could the full 2°C) with him.
_

A journey which he is not taking alone.. there are 100's, 1000's , millions boats & guys before and after him, its quite a popular fairground attraction.
Oh, and the fairground adheres to rules set by ringmaster Newton and his assistants Clausius, Rumford, Carnot, Gibbs...


----------



## dkevox

LOL.

I don't know what I said that was confusing, but I understand fully what loop equilibrium is and maybe I said something wrong, but I don't think so.

The fact is that the water temperature exiting a radiator is cooler then the temperature entering it. The amount of heat that was exchanged while passing through the radiator depends on many factors, including the temperature of the air being circulated over the fins of the radiator. The greater the difference in temperature the more heat will be exchanged.

The air being circulated over the fins of a radiator exhausting out the back of the case will be warmer air then that being circulated over the fins of a radiator mounted at the front of the case and drawing room temperature in. This is because the components in the case generate heat. This is especially true in the scenario like I described where the air in the case has already been heated by passing through a radiator when entering the case.

It's also easy to see that loop order matters by simply running multiple GPUs in series. The latter GPU will always read 1-2 degrees higher under load. You can swap them to make sure it isn't a difference in effectiveness of the water-block or heat generated by the card (I've done this out of curiosity). It's not illogical, the water is a bit warmer so it can not cool the second gpu quite as much.

I really don't get what the argument is. The water does change temperature as it travels through the system. It reaches an equilibrium with the room, but that doesn't mean that order doesn't matter. Running from radiators to CPU will net you slightly cooler CPU temperatures then running through the GPUs before the CPU.

Just because there's only a net total amount of heat exchange possible doesn't mean you can't impact the use of that heat exchange somewhat to your benefit by how you route it. For instance, a loop that hit the GPUs first, then CPU, then radiator would remove slightly less heat from the CPU then a loop that hit the CPU first then GPUs then radiator. Either way, both are exchanging the same amount of total heat, but the CPU temps will be slightly lower in one then the other. Likewise the GPU temps will be slightly cooler in one then the other.

Maybe to most people it's negligible because were talking maybe 1 degree or even less. But I'm super anal and care about that stuff lol.


----------



## schoolofmonkey

Seeing the thread has turned to Enthoo and RADS I have a quick question.

Is anyone using the top case mounting area as a RAD intake as well, I was thinking of turning my fans around and just using the 1 140mm rear fan as the exhaust.
That would give me 2 front and 2 bottom fans with unrestricted air intake, 2x Top going through a H110 into the case and straight out the back.

Just looking at ways (besides water) of not having the classy heat up the case and push CPU temps up.
My 4790k is hitting 70c when running AIDA64 now that I have the classy in there, push/pull didn't make a difference, so now I'm just using pull less noise with no temp difference.
I even removed the front rectangle bit from the center of the intake, it actually looks good with the red fans, and allows more airflow.


----------



## RnRollie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *schoolofmonkey*
> 
> Seeing the thread has turned to Enthoo and RADS I have a quick question.
> 
> Is anyone using the top case mounting area as a RAD intake as well, I was thinking of turning my fans around and just using the 1 140mm rear fan as the exhaust.
> That would give me 2 front and 2 bottom fans with unrestricted air intake, 2x Top going through a H110 into the case and straight out the back.
> 
> Just looking at ways (besides water) of not having the classy heat up the case and push CPU temps up.
> My 4790k is hitting 70c when running AIDA64 now that I have the classy in there, push/pull didn't make a difference, so now I'm just using pull less noise with no temp difference.
> I even removed the front rectangle bit from the center of the intake, it actually looks good with the red fans, and allows more airflow.


That should work nicely.
Slightly better temps on CPU

...
tick
...
tock
...
tick










gentlemen, start your arguments


----------



## schoolofmonkey

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RnRollie*
> 
> That should work nicely.
> Slightly better temps on CPU


It takes 5 minutes to switch the fans around, crank up the rear fan profile and give it a go.

What was funny when I did have it in push/pull the only temp difference I did notice as 1 core was 8c lower than the rest, when stressed it evened out though, the rest were all the same temps as just pull.
I'm guessing that was the first core to be cooled.

Was looking at this in the future though:
https://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=wish_lists&wlcId=329421&action=wish_lists


----------



## Rankre

So about an earlier question, does anyone know if the Updraft Floating Bearings (UFB) on the fans that Phanteks gives us are actually just sleeve bearings or not? I'm planning to mount some of the stock fans horizontally but it would be good to know if they're gonna give out in like a year and a half and start being creaky.


----------



## schoolofmonkey

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rankre*
> 
> I'm planning to mount some of the stock fans horizontally but it would be good to know if they're gonna give out in like a year and a half and start being creaky.


I'm not to sure about the sleeve bearings, but I mounted the stock fans horizontally down the bottom and they vibrated like mad, even when I found some rubber mounts the fans themselves vibrated to a audible level.

I ended up buying the Phanteks PH-F140SP red led fans, which didn't vibrate, had included rubber mounts and were a lot quieter.
I've been running them since yesterday horizontally, and no problems so far like the included ones.

As to how long will they last, can't answer that, I've had Noctua's die on me within 6 months, so there is no way of knowing.


----------



## fateswarm

Just ignore push or pull orientation in terms of "strength". Any fluid mechanics professor would give you an F for suggesting that. The thing that matters in these terms is dust intake.

Basically filter what comes in, ignore what comes out. The regular setup is positive pressure inside the case, filtered intake, ignored outake.

I figured that's a bit simplistic in case you turn off the computer since the gaps will bring dust in but oh well.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rankre*
> 
> So about an earlier question, does anyone know if the Updraft Floating Bearings (UFB) on the fans that Phanteks gives us are actually just sleeve bearings or not? I'm planning to mount some of the stock fans horizontally but it would be good to know if they're gonna give out in like a year and a half and start being creaky.


It's a safe bet that Phanteks UFB is a type of sleeve bearing design. That said, Phanteks fans do come with a 5 year warranty and they boast an incredible 150000hr MTBF (mean time between failures). For comparison, that's a 50% longer lifespan than a Gentle Typhoon. I'm not saying I believe it, but it is what it is. There are some types of modified sleeve bearing designs, for example rifle or fluid dynamic, which fare better than others especially when mounted horizontally. I've not seen anyone with specifics on what the Phanteks UFB is like in comparison.


----------



## schoolofmonkey

Well after rotating the RAD fans as intakes the CPU temps under load dropped while playing Sniper Elite 3 from 60c to 49c, but the GPU went up from 77c to 79c.
Still within the GTX780ti Classy max throttle temp of 85c. I may have to increase the rear exhaust fans speed a little.
Unless I drop the GPU into the second PCI-E 3 slot..

I did put another intake fan next to the RAD (over the 5.25" bay).
Positive pressure is better in the Primo lots of mesh unfiltered holes for dust to get in..lol.


----------



## WHIMington

ANNNND HardwareCanucks Enthoo Luxe review is now on the tube.












Just ordered the white version


----------



## Screetch82

negative air pressure is the winner: http://www.techspot.com/community/topics/effective-air-cooling-guide-part-ii-myths-old-rituals-and-analysis.180883/


----------



## Screetch82

I think i will use the front two fans as intake, have the bottom 480 in p/p for intake and the top 420 p/p for a exhaust as well as the back fan as an exhaust.
would this work?


----------



## schoolofmonkey

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Screetch82*
> 
> I think i will use the front two fans as intake, have the bottom 480 in p/p for intake and the top 420 p/p for a exhaust as well as the back fan as an exhaust.
> would this work?


It would, I'm still experimenting at the moment, Just turned my top RAD fans back around to exhaust air through the RAD.
I've found focusing on cooling the CPU more, the GPU goes up 2/3c, if I focus on venting the GPU's hot air, the CPU temps go about 5/7c.

Its my first case with a non mesh side, had a Carbine 500R which has a side intake.
That works really well to push hot air away from a video card.

Sucks the H110's pipes aren't longer, I'd move it closer to the 5.24" bay and have a 140mm fan exhausting above the rear 140mm fan, this is where all the GPU's hot air is going...lol


----------



## RnRollie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rankre*
> 
> So about an earlier question, does anyone know if the Updraft Floating Bearings (UFB) on the fans that Phanteks gives us are actually just sleeve bearings or not? I'm planning to mount some of the stock fans horizontally but it would be good to know if they're gonna give out in like a year and a half and start being creaky.


I suspect they are a sleeve variant.
But with a little trick to minimise the typical "fast" wear on horizontal mounted sleeves

A bit like Swiftechs Helix Z-bearing

It "pulls" itself up.. and thus no longer "rests" on the sleeve.

Unfortunately, this trick only works when its frame/arms down.. like when blowing downwards (eg at top "sucking" air in through the top). I suspect when mounted the other way around (eg bottom sucking air in and/or top blowing air out) that they go beyond the ideal balance middle point.

But i could be wrong... hope some corrects me if i am.


----------



## RnRollie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *schoolofmonkey*
> 
> It takes 5 minutes to switch the fans around, crank up the rear fan profile and give it a go.
> 
> What was funny when I did have it in push/pull the only temp difference I did notice as 1 core was 8c lower than the rest, when stressed it evened out though, the rest were all the same temps as just pull.
> I'm guessing that was the first core to be cooled.
> 
> Was looking at this in the future though:
> https://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=wish_lists&wlcId=329421&action=wish_lists


I'ld stay far far away from coloured liquid.. especially Red.. it WILL stain your tubes/blocks and it will takes ages to flush out.. water will turn pink for a very long time.

Better get new hoses in the colour you want like PrimoFlex ADVANCED LRT, the tubing that comes with the XSPC isn't the best on the market anyways. And there is no saying how the XSPC tubing will react to EKs blood red.

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=59_413_292_1153


----------



## schoolofmonkey

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RnRollie*
> 
> I'ld stay far far away from coloured liquid.. especially Red.. it WILL stain your tubes/blocks and it will takes ages to flush out.. water will turn pink for a very long time.
> 
> Better get new hoses in the colour you want like PrimoFlex ADVANCED LRT, the tubing that comes with the XSPC isn't the best on the market anyways. And there is no saying how the XSPC tubing will react to EKs blood red.
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=59_413_292_1153


Thats cool.
Seems the place I was looking at buying the kit from has completely sold out of them.
So I might look at building a custom loop to fit perfectly into the Primo.

I liked the look of the XSPC D5 Photon 170 Reservoir/Pump Combo, it would fit nicely in the mounting bracket at the lower back of the case.
Would be really close to the bottom mounted RAD and Classy water block.


----------



## RnRollie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *schoolofmonkey*
> 
> Well after rotating the RAD fans as intakes the CPU temps under load dropped while playing Sniper Elite 3 from 60c to 49c, but the GPU went up from 77c to 79c.
> Still within the GTX780ti Classy max throttle temp of 85c. I may have to increase the rear exhaust fans speed a little.
> Unless I drop the GPU into the second PCI-E 3 slot..
> 
> I did put another intake fan next to the RAD (over the 5.25" bay).
> Positive pressure is better in the Primo lots of mesh unfiltered holes for dust to get in..lol.











You could use MSI Afterburner to modify the fan profile on the GTX... have it kick in a bit sooner and go to max speed earlier.
But in the end it just need much more air. The front fans aren't contributing that much , so ignore them









I assume the floor is fully fanned? And the case itself raised a few inches off the floor like Doyle's "cart" ?








Then the only thng left is to up the speed of the fans from silent to not-so-silent







Having rear fan at max speed will help a lot.

PS: Actually, what the classy needs is this:
http://shop.watercool.de/epages/WatercooleK.sf/en_GB/?ObjectPath=/Shops/WatercooleK/Products/15549










Quote:


> Originally Posted by *schoolofmonkey*
> 
> Thats cool.
> Seems the place I was looking at buying the kit from has completely sold out of them.
> So I might look at building a custom loop to fit perfectly into the Primo.
> 
> I liked the look of the XSPC D5 Photon 170 Reservoir/Pump Combo, it would fit nicely in the mounting bracket at the lower back of the case.
> Would be really close to the bottom mounted RAD and Classy water block.


You have to ask around about that, the Photon is very nice, but a bit "bulky" -wider as most tubes. and thus doesn't always fit where you like

There's the Kool room near Melbourne , but that is quite a hike to undertake








http://www.thekoolroom.com/

There are e few others (2011 thread): http://www.overclock.net/t/943129/water-cooling-shops-in-australia/0_100


----------



## schoolofmonkey

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RnRollie*
> 
> PS: Actually, what the classy needs is this:
> http://shop.watercool.de/epages/WatercooleK.sf/en_GB/?ObjectPath=/Shops/WatercooleK/Products/15549


Was looking at one of these:
EK Full Cover VGA Block EK-FC780 GTX Classy Acetal Nickel

Wish I could find a good 280mm RAD, I have so many 140mm fans here, spare Noctua's.
I liked the look of the Alphacool NexXxoS XT45 Full Copper 180mm Dual, but from what I can see it takes 120mm fans, but it would fit perfectly in the front or bottom mounts.

But this is the place I can only buy good watercooling stuff from:
http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=207_160_297&zenid=50df461ab8e795c5a2b876139668ed95

If someone can point out what would be good to fit in the Primo and cool the Classy, well found the waterblock for that already, sucks I have to get the backplate from EK themselves though.


----------



## fateswarm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Screetch82*
> 
> negative air pressure is the winner: http://www.techspot.com/community/topics/effective-air-cooling-guide-part-ii-myths-old-rituals-and-analysis.180883/


"More air is going in than out."

F in the Laws of Thermodynamics.

Or a more appropriate law.

Certainly F in Fluid Mechanics.


----------



## Screetch82

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *schoolofmonkey*
> 
> It would, I'm still experimenting at the moment, Just turned my top RAD fans back around to exhaust air through the RAD.
> 
> Its my first case with a non mesh side, had a Carbine 500R which has a side intake.
> That works really well to push hot air away from a video card.


Awesome I currently have a 500R too and am now moving to the Primo. Let me know what find out. for now my GPU is not in the loop.. but easiest is to include it at some point. Rather then modding it I may buy a new GPU which comes as a water model


----------



## schoolofmonkey

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Screetch82*
> 
> Awesome I currently have a 500R too and am now moving to the Primo. Let me know what find out. for now my GPU is not in the loop.. but easiest is to include it at some point. Rather then modding it I may buy a new GPU which comes as a water model


You won't regret it, its a nice roomy case, you do notice a GPU temp difference due to not having that huge 200mm blowing directly on it.
But me when I bought this setup, went for the biggest, baddest, bad-boy on the market, the eVGA GTX780ti classified (would of got a kingpin if they were available).
I have some spare (around $400 AUD), and I really don't need to put the 4790k in the loop due to it being under a H110 and when the Classy isn't in there the temps are good (65c running AIDA64).

If you cool the GPU in the Primo, the CPU stays cooler..lol..


----------



## SteelArt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RnRollie*
> 
> I'ld stay far far away from coloured liquid.. especially Red.. it WILL stain your tubes/blocks and it will takes ages to flush out.. water will turn pink for a very long time.


What's the reason to change fluid color? If I'll go for another color I'll buy new parts for my new rig.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RnRollie*
> 
> Better get new hoses in the colour you want like PrimoFlex ADVANCED LRT


Coloured hoses looks terrible. Like cheap plastic toys. I personally hate them, especially BLACK.


----------



## RnRollie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *schoolofmonkey*
> 
> Was looking at one of these:
> EK Full Cover VGA Block EK-FC780 GTX Classy Acetal Nickel
> 
> Wish I could find a good 280mm RAD, I have so many 140mm fans here, spare Noctua's.
> I liked the look of the Alphacool NexXxoS XT45 Full Copper 180mm Dual, but from what I can see it takes 120mm fans, but it would fit perfectly in the front or bottom mounts.
> 
> But this is the place I can only buy good watercooling stuff from:
> http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=207_160_297&zenid=50df461ab8e795c5a2b876139668ed95
> 
> If someone can point out what would be good to fit in the Primo and cool the Classy, well found the waterblock for that already, sucks I have to get the backplate from EK themselves though.


if you plan on the XT45 180.2, you're gonna need a hammer & 180mm fans









http://www.alphacool.com/index.php/cat/c102_Dual-Radiator.html

I assume you mean the XT45 280 ... of course, for the bottom, you could go with a MONSTA 280 (140mm fans) or 360 (120mm fans)

XT45 or ST30 for top or front


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Screetch82*
> 
> negative air pressure is the winner: http://www.techspot.com/community/topics/effective-air-cooling-guide-part-ii-myths-old-rituals-and-analysis.180883/


I saw your post and got all excited .. then find is nothing but myths, old rituals, claims of fact with no testing , data or analysis to verify any of the babble. At the least it amounts to nothing but contributions to the myths and rituals.


----------



## RnRollie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteelArt*
> 
> What's the reason to change fluid color? If I'll go for another color I'll buy new parts for my new rig.


Because ALL of them WILL stain your tubing sooner or later. And some of the aftermarket "space technology-food dye" can trigger leeching & clogging much sooner. And lets not get started on "non-conductive" and "nano-particles"

There's a reason why the general advise is to use Distilled + PTn / Silver KillCoil .... experience

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteelArt*
> 
> Coloured hoses looks terrible. Like cheap plastic toys. I personally hate them, especially BLACK.


Given the number of colours available nowadays in quality hoses like the Advanced LRT, it should be possible to find something that looks "ok"

otherwise... go copper or acryl rigid tube


----------



## fateswarm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GOLDDUBBY*
> 
> ^ that's how it's done in Australia
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Found the vid xD hahaha


darn!


----------



## schoolofmonkey

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RnRollie*
> 
> if you plan on the XT45 180.2, you're gonna need a hammer & 180mm fans
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.alphacool.com/index.php/cat/c102_Dual-Radiator.html
> 
> I assume you mean the XT45 280 ... of course, for the bottom, you could go with a MONSTA 280 (140mm fans) or 360 (120mm fans)
> 
> XT45 or ST30 for top or front


Yeah going through the Alphacool site and saw the NexXxoS XT45 Full Copper 280mm, now got to find a local Australian supplier.
PCCG where I buy most things from don't have it in stock, or listed for that matter.

If the Photon is a tight fit, there's plenty of room for a XSPC X2O 750 Dual Bay Reservoir and Pump V4, there's no need for the twin pump model as its only for the GPU block.
Though I can get the Photon 270 for the same price as the 170, the 170 looks a lot fatter than the 270 and looking at the Primo the Classy extends out over some of the rear side mounting holes.
But this pic might give you an idea the room at the back of the Primo:

http://s1294.photobucket.com/user/schoolofmonkey2/media/20140726_191953_zps8bb043b9.jpg.html


----------



## Screetch82

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Screetch82*
> 
> I now placed my order:
> 
> Enthoo Primo Case White
> Gigabyte Z97X-UD5H (already got it delivered+20% cashback)
> i7-4790k (got it for cheap in the US)
> 1x Aquacomputer cuplex kryos Delrin
> 1x Alphacool NexXxoS UT60 Full Copper 480mm
> 1x Alphacool NexXxoS XT45 Full Copper 420mm ( i'll use 3 of the 5 fans that come with the case for push for now)
> 1x Aquacomputer Aquastream XT USB 12V
> 8x Noiseblocker NB-BlackSilentPRO PL2
> 1x Alphacool Cape Fuzion Core 10
> 
> I somewhat forgot to order the aqaous 5 XT fan controller..so I will use the Primo's PWM hub as well as the mobos fan controllers..
> I also order 2 RGB moduls for 15 as well as 2 ball valves for 14 Euros.. so sending that back will almost buy me a fan controller if i need to.
> 
> I will reuse my Seasonic PSU, 780ti, 16GB 2133 TridentX memory and harddrives.
> 
> Norman


parts just arrived. I even got a cashback voucher saying if I use alot of Alphacool Products I will get cashback. Just need the case or do I start without the case?


----------



## SteelArt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RnRollie*
> 
> otherwise... go copper or acryl rigid tube


Ordered monsoon rigid tubes already  And I am using Pastel White fluid. Let's see what will be with my components.


----------



## WHIMington

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *schoolofmonkey*
> 
> Yeah going through the Alphacool site and saw the NexXxoS XT45 Full Copper 280mm, now got to find a local Australian supplier.
> PCCG where I buy most things from don't have it in stock, or listed for that matter.
> 
> If the Photon is a tight fit, there's plenty of room for a XSPC X2O 750 Dual Bay Reservoir and Pump V4, there's no need for the twin pump model as its only for the GPU block.
> Though I can get the Photon 270 for the same price as the 170, the 170 looks a lot fatter than the 270 and looking at the Primo the Classy extends out over some of the rear side mounting holes.
> But this pic might give you an idea the room at the back of the Primo:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://s1294.photobucket.com/user/schoolofmonkey2/media/20140726_191953_zps8bb043b9.jpg.html


A 280 will not fit well, I tried, there is only 1 140 mount on the bottom so only 1 140 can screw onto the case, the other you will need to find a way to fit on the rad, you will also ran into exhaust spacing problem with PSU

Mounting a Photon to the rear is possible, if you do not plan on using rigid SLI bridge, pay attention to the waterblock size and are willing to lose the rear 140 fan


----------



## RnRollie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fateswarm*
> 
> "More air is going in than out."
> 
> F in the Laws of Thermodynamics.
> 
> Or a more appropriate law.
> 
> Certainly F in Fluid Mechanics.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Screetch82*
> 
> negative air pressure is the winner: http://www.techspot.com/community/topics/effective-air-cooling-guide-part-ii-myths-old-rituals-and-analysis.180883/












Here we go again....

You know, we CAN put this argument to bed by agreeing on TWO things:

1. Lets not talk about negative/positive pressure unless the difference is +1 PSI
Since most modern cases are sieves (which is why they are noisy), good luck with achieving that without
bolting something like this to it http://www.delta.com.tw/product/cp/dcfans/download/pdf/THB/THB172x172x50.8mm.pdf

2. everybody take a (tape)ruler and actually MEASURE the dimensions of 30 Cubic Feet.
That is how much air is going through the average case PER MINUTE


----------



## RnRollie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WHIMington*
> 
> A 280 will not fit well, I tried, there is only 1 140 mount on the bottom so only 1 140 can screw onto the case, the other you will need to find a way to fit on the rad, you will also ran into exhaust spacing problem with PSU
> 
> Mounting a Photon to the rear is possible, if you do not plan on using rigid SLI bridge, pay attention to the waterblock size and are willing to lose the rear 140 fan


see, this is exactly why post shuld be titled with PRO- PRIMO - LUXE - etc

There is room for a 280 at the floor of a Primo, not so much on teh Pro & Luxe


----------



## schoolofmonkey

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WHIMington*
> 
> A 280 will not fit well, I tried,


@RnRollie

So how does this look for the Primo?
http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=wish_lists&wlcId=329421&action=wish_lists

Just confused on tubing and fitting:
Compression fitting:
http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=207_160_300_1320&vk_sort=4

Tubing:
http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=207_160_853&vk_sort=4

I do like the PrimoChill PrimoFlex Advanced LRT Tubing Red.

Thanks guys.


----------



## WHIMington

Well I though you were talking about the smaller case, bit confusion there, sorry


----------



## RnRollie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *schoolofmonkey*
> 
> @RnRollie
> 
> So how does this look for the Primo?
> http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=wish_lists&wlcId=329421&action=wish_lists
> 
> Just confused on tubing and fitting:
> Compression fitting:
> http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=207_160_300_1320&vk_sort=4
> 
> Tubing:
> http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=207_160_853&vk_sort=4
> 
> I do like the PrimoChill PrimoFlex Advanced LRT Tubing Red.
> 
> Thanks guys.


if we are talking about the PRIMO , then a 280 (140.2) at the bottom fits without modding... but you can also fit a MONSTA 360 (120.3) or even a 480 (120.4) in the bottom with push/pull fans. But you have to sacrifice a drive cage

Now, if you want a dedicated waterloop for 780ti, i'ld go "bigger", thicker or longer as a 280 on the floor.
for example an XSPC RS360 - fans in push/pull
or an Alphacool Monsta 280 or 360 - fans in push/pull
or an Alphacool UT60 280 or 360 - fans in push/pull

As for the res/pump combo.... the H²O 750 kit aint bad, but its very sensitive to low fluid level... if going that route, a H²O D5 kit is the better choice.

Fittings and tubing: when using compression fittings, you MUST MATCH the tubing & fittings ID & OD - 3/8 & 5/8 is NOT the same as 10mm & 16mm. it is close, but not the same. With barbs, you only need to match the hose ID to the barb OD
(actually with barbs the best combo is probably 1/2 barb and 7/16 ID hose to have a very tight fit









For indepth about W/C, head over to the watercooling section








http://www.overclock.net/t/226970/updated-water-cooling-essential-threads/0_100


----------



## doyll

"Negative pressure" and "positive pressure" is really the wrong terminology. Maybe "negative airflow ratio" and "positive airflow ratio" would be better terms?

Why do custom loops use all these new "special" coolant additives? Why not use time proven coolant additives?

I been using air cooling for years now. Last time I used H2O was 10 years ago when we had to adapt and make pretty much everything we used. We used low temperature water heating additives to stop corrosion. Why not use them or something similar a loop?


----------



## Rerona

Any idea why the Enthoo Pro went up in price on amazon to $142? It was $99 less then a week ago. Was about to pick one up :/.


----------



## RnRollie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> "Negative pressure" and "positive pressure" is really the wrong terminology. Maybe "negative airflow ratio" and "positive airflow ratio" would be better terms?
> 
> Why do custom loops use all these new "special" coolant additives? Why not use time proven coolant additives?
> 
> I been using air cooling for years now. Last time I used H2O was 10 years ago when we had to adapt and make pretty much everything we used. We used low temperature water heating additives to stop corrosion. Why not use them or something similar a loop?


Most of the special coolant additives are the equivalent of bottled carbonated volcanic spring water... basically the same as tapwater, but with 1000% markup. And in a lot of cases it gives waterblock makers something to hide behind in case of quality/waranty issues

In the olden days, watercooling was quite a mix of stuff... repurposed car heaters, pond pumps, brass or steel fittings, copper pipe, garden hose, drilled ALU heatsinks in electrical junction boxes.... and the "knowledge" of it all was different. So we used stuff we knew about and seemed logic to use.. automotive antifreeze & zerex being at the top of the list.

It was an emerging niche








And while information & knowledge was sketchy, it was in a way more fun... a lot more adventurous people experimenting away -sometimes on the most insane ideas. Lots of "thruths" & "facts" were debunked also.
I remember debates about which automotive was best, and how much or little to use









Nowadays, you really have to make an effort to do it "wrong"... allmost all radiators are quality all copper or copper/brass, fittings are (while overpriced) hi quality brass/copper , waterblocks are industrially precision milled copper, hoses are hi-grade food/medical and pumps no longer come with pieces of dead goldfish stuck to them. And a lot of the blocks are nickle plated to minimise oxidation even more. Corrosion has become almost an non-issue.

And with this and the shift in knowledge came also the realisation that the best cheap liquid to use is just water, with only two important things to take into account:
1. use "pure" distilled water, not tap/spring/well if you want to avoid limescale/mineral buildup and algea growth
2. to make sure to "kill" any lifeforms, use something like a silver coil or PTn.

Quality, off-the-shelves product have make life easier & watercooling more accessible. Unfortunately also a lot of knowledge got "lost" while most of the misconceptions still live on.
But that is the fate of everything i guess... those who still know how to tune a carburettor, please raise their hands. Those who still know which IDE cable(s) & which ports to use when you have an RLL and a MFM drive, raise hands. Someone cares to explain the difference between XMS & EMS?


----------



## rpjkw11

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rerona*
> 
> Any idea why the Enthoo Pro went up in price on amazon to $142? It was $99 less then a week ago. Was about to pick one up :/.


Law of supply and demand, perhaps?


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rerona*
> 
> Any idea why the Enthoo Pro went up in price on amazon to $142? It was $99 less then a week ago. Was about to pick one up :/.


Simply supply and demand economics is my guess. There are only a few Enthoo Pro w/ window available so price is up.

Enthoo Pro without window is still $89.99. The difference is none windowed case has no PSU cover.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Screetch82*
> 
> negative air pressure is the winner: http://www.techspot.com/community/topics/effective-air-cooling-guide-part-ii-myths-old-rituals-and-analysis.180883/


What a stupid write up. The benefits of positive pressure in a case are _only_ in relation to dust control, and it only matters if all the intake fans are filtered. Anyone who claims positive pressure is better at _cooling_ than negative pressure, or vice versa, probably doesn't know what they are talking about. If the airflow is positive or negative in either direction the cooling benefits will be the same, with the one difference being that increased dust accumulation from a negative pressure case can adversely affect temps and overall system reliability.

The author of that write up claims that "_For significantly more dust to build up, it would require significant gaps, like unoccupied fan mounts, open expansion covers and drive bezels, etc., which is rarely the case._" which is complete rubbish. Virtually every computer case has significant unfiltered openings into the case. When you have more fannage blowing out then in then every available opening becomes a place where dust gets sucked in. When you have more filtered CFMs coming into the case than out then every available opening becomes a place where filtered air escapes keeping dust from getting sucked in.



"_significant gaps .... rarely the case_" What a stupid thing to write. Significant unfiltered gaps are the norm in PC cases.


----------



## bond32

That article... Made me laugh. It has to be a joke right? Surely its a joke...

I know I said it's not always best to compare to real world examples, but when I design duct systems everything (with a few exceptions) is designed to be slightly positive in air pressure. There are many reasons why, and I won't go into detail. Main reason everyone says go all intake with computers and watercooling is that radiators cannot perform as intended if they bring in air that is 3-5 degrees higher than air that the otherwise would be bringing in.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RnRollie*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Most of the special coolant additives are the equivalent of bottled carbonated volcanic spring water... basically the same as tapwater, but with 1000% markup. And in a lot of cases it gives waterblock makers something to hide behind in case of quality/waranty issues
> 
> In the olden days, watercooling was quite a mix of stuff... repurposed car heaters, pond pumps, brass or steel fittings, copper pipe, garden hose, drilled ALU heatsinks in electrical junction boxes.... and the "knowledge" of it all was different. So we used stuff we knew about and seemed logic to use.. automotive antifreeze & zerex being at the top of the list.
> 
> It was an emerging niche
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And while information & knowledge was sketchy, it was in a way more fun... a lot more adventurous people experimenting away -sometimes on the most insane ideas. Lots of "thruths" & "facts" were debunked also.
> I remember debates about which automotive was best, and how much or little to use
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Nowadays, you really have to make an effort to do it "wrong"... allmost all radiators are quality all copper or copper/brass, fittings are (while overpriced) hi quality brass/copper , waterblocks are industrially precision milled copper, hoses are hi-grade food/medical and pumps no longer come with pieces of dead goldfish stuck to them. And a lot of the blocks are nickle plated to minimise oxidation even more. Corrosion has become almost an non-issue.
> 
> 
> 
> And with this and the shift in knowledge came also the realisation that the best cheap liquid to use is just water, with only two important things to take into account:
> 1. use "pure" distilled water, not tap/spring/well if you want to avoid limescale/mineral buildup and algea growth
> 2. to make sure to "kill" any lifeforms, use something like a silver coil or PTn.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Quality, off-the-shelves product have make life easier & watercooling more accessible. Unfortunately also a lot of knowledge got "lost" while most of the misconceptions still live on.
> But that is the fate of everything i guess... those who still know how to tune a carburettor, please raise their hands. Those who still know which IDE cable(s) & which ports to use when you have an RLL and a MFM drive, raise hands. Someone cares to explain the difference between XMS & EMS?


I suspect the most easily damaged component is the waterblocks .. the metal fins giving area for water to obsorb heat from. It does not take much to eat them away or plug waterflow between them.

The problem with distilled water is it is so pure it leaches mineral from whatever it touches to replace what has been removed by distilling it.







Learned this maintaining car washes .. the pure water rinse system have a very limited life if it is metal. Hence the need for an inhibitor being added to cooling systems... also to stop electrolysis.


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rerona*
> 
> Any idea why the Enthoo Pro went up in price on amazon to $142? It was $99 less then a week ago. Was about to pick one up :/.


supply and demand. also, I have almost never seen a steady price for a product on amazon. not over a period longer than 1 month.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Screetch82*
> 
> negative air pressure is the winner: http://www.techspot.com/community/topics/effective-air-cooling-guide-part-ii-myths-old-rituals-and-analysis.180883/
> 
> 
> 
> What a stupid write up. The benefits of positive pressure in a case are _only_ in relation to dust control, and it only matters if all the intake fans are filtered. Anyone who claims positive pressure is better at _cooling_ than negative pressure, or vice versa, probably doesn't know what they are talking about. If the airflow is positive or negative in either direction the cooling benefits will be the same, with the one difference being that increased dust accumulation from a negative pressure case can adversely affect temps and overall system reliability.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> The author of that write up claims that "_For significantly more dust to build up, it would require significant gaps, like unoccupied fan mounts, open expansion covers and drive bezels, etc., which is rarely the case._" which is complete rubbish. Virtually every computer case has significant unfiltered openings into the case. When you have more fannage blowing out then in then every available opening becomes a place where dust gets sucked in. When you have more filtered CFMs coming into the case than out then every available opening becomes a place where filtered air escapes keeping dust from getting sucked in.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> "_significant gaps .... rarely the case_" What a stupid thing to write. Significant unfiltered gaps are the norm in PC cases.
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> That article... Made me laugh. It has to be a joke right? Surely its a joke...
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> I know I said it's not always best to compare to real world examples, but when I design duct systems everything (with a few exceptions) is designed to be slightly positive in air pressure. There are many reasons why, and I won't go into detail. Main reason everyone says go all intake with computers and watercooling is that radiators cannot perform as intended if they bring in air that is 3-5 degrees higher than air that the otherwise would be bringing in.


I tried to scan it but it very quickly ended up in round file.


----------



## Seid Dark

Finally got my Phanteks Enthoo Primo white after waiting several months for it to come to stock. I opened the package and case has two visible scratches on the front panel







Package was undamaged so the damage to the case must have happened at the factory. Not sure what to do now.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seid Dark*
> 
> Finally got my Phanteks Enthoo Primo white after waiting several months for it to come to stock. I opened the package and case has two visible scratches on the front panel
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Package was undamaged so the damage to the case must have happened at the factory. Not sure what to do now.


Need to know where you are to know where to direct you.
Phanteks customer support is very good. They will probably send you replacement panels.


----------



## Seid Dark

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Need to know where you are to know where to direct you.
> Phanteks customer support is very good. They will probably send you replacement panels.


Finland. I guess I gotta contact custom support then. It would be pain in the ass to ship this back to shop, I don't have a car so taking it to post office is difficult.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seid Dark*
> 
> Finland. I guess I gotta contact custom support then. It would be pain in the ass to ship this back to shop, I don't have a car so taking it to post office is difficult.


My suggestion is use this form to contact their support department. In the Department: box you can choose Info, Sales, Marketing or Support. Choose Support.







Explain everything and give them a link to the pictures of scratches.
http://phanteks.com/Contact.html

We have an American rep who is on here fairly often, but I don't think we have a European rep here.


----------



## GOLDDUBBY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteelArt*
> 
> What's the reason to change fluid color?


Isn't that obvious? Blue is much colder than red = more cooling performance! YEAY


----------



## tatmMRKIV

So I am thinking about picking up a enthoo primo for rad space only up to 2 420 or 480 rads its just a gaming rig so gpus and cpu

Any reason not to?


----------



## GOLDDUBBY

No problem aslong as you don't pick up EKWB xtx 480's they are 3mm to wide to fit in the bottom. 420's wont fit in the bottom at all.


----------



## Rankre

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RnRollie*
> 
> I suspect they are a sleeve variant.
> But with a little trick to minimise the typical "fast" wear on horizontal mounted sleeves
> 
> A bit like Swiftechs Helix Z-bearing
> 
> It "pulls" itself up.. and thus no longer "rests" on the sleeve.
> 
> Unfortunately, this trick only works when its frame/arms down.. like when blowing downwards (eg at top "sucking" air in through the top). I suspect when mounted the other way around (eg bottom sucking air in and/or top blowing air out) that they go beyond the ideal balance middle point.
> 
> But i could be wrong... hope some corrects me if i am.


:[ I was planning on using the 200mm as a top exhaust lol. We'll see how it goes once i start putting everything together later tonight.


----------



## Rankre

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seid Dark*
> 
> Finally got my Phanteks Enthoo Primo white after waiting several months for it to come to stock. I opened the package and case has two visible scratches on the front panel
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Package was undamaged so the damage to the case must have happened at the factory. Not sure what to do now.


Like someone else said, Phanteks support is nice. I emailed them about my window problem and if you got your invoice and a few camera shots of the damage, they should agree to replace. Especially in this case (like mine) the stuff was damaged out of the box.

EDIT - Huh... didn't realize I was the only one to post in the last 6 hrs... well... this is awkward double post....


----------



## MrGrievous

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GOLDDUBBY*
> 
> Isn't that obvious? Blue is much colder than red = more cooling performance! YEAY


Lol I will be using red coolant then








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GOLDDUBBY*
> 
> No problem aslong as you don't pick up EKWB xtx 480's they are 3mm to wide to fit in the bottom. 420's wont fit in the bottom at all.


Well that is true if modding the case any is not desired. If you do mod the Primo you can separate the stealth panel which would allow for a 420 to fit in the bottom as long as the rad in no wider than 143mm such as AlphaCool 140mm rads will fit.


----------



## Screetch82

just ask for a small refund. It is a pain to send it back and wait again


----------



## WHIMington

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Screetch82*
> 
> just ask for a small refund. It is a pain to send it back and wait again


What type of scratch is it? Is the paint chipped or is it the black deposit from a foreign objects? If it is only black deposit then you can try to clean it up with lighter fluid.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WHIMington*
> 
> What type of scratch is it? Is the paint chipped or is it the black deposit from a foreign objects? If it is only black deposit then you can try to clean it up with lighter fluid.


Lighter fluid is very a aggressive solvent. I would be very careful about using it .. if at all.


----------



## WHIMington

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Lighter fluid is very a aggressive solvent. I would be very careful about using it .. if at all.


Knowing what you are doing is important. You can always use acetone or other solvent that is at your disposal, my favorite is MEK









Buttom line is, if you are working on aluminium and the paint job is good quality, you won't be hurting anythings, you can even use lighter fluid on many type of plastic, heck, I even use lighter fluid to clean PCB many times, never have any problem


----------



## RnRollie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seid Dark*
> 
> Finally got my Phanteks Enthoo Primo white after waiting several months for it to come to stock. I opened the package and case has two visible scratches on the front panel
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Package was undamaged so the damage to the case must have happened at the factory. Not sure what to do now.


does it catches you nail if you slide over it?

If it is "cut into" the paint its an issue, otherwise it'll "buff out"

Automotive paint cleaner / scratch remover might be an option.

And a good car wax to finish off the whole case (or at least the metal parts)... combined with an orbital buffer it works a treat if your case paint starts looking "dull"
Some of these waxes give a "wet look" finish.. really something to see on a PC case


----------



## doyll

Black cases have brushed aluminum look, White is a textured "sand blasted" finish .. so unless the finish has changed it is a textured finish .. very hard to polish or buff a textured finish.


----------



## dkevox

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Black cases have brushed aluminum look, White is a textured "sand blasted" finish .. so unless the finish has changed it is a textured finish .. very hard to polish or buff a textured finish.


Huh? I have the primo in white and it's smooth on the exterior. I'd think it will be alright to buff out.

I got lucky and only had minor damage on the inside top of the 5.25" bays. It'll be covered/blocked by my radiator so I don't care.

Also the primo in white costs under $200 now with mail in rebate on newegg, was hard to pass up.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dkevox*
> 
> Huh? I have the primo in white and it's smooth on the exterior. I'd think it will be alright to buff out.
> 
> I got lucky and only had minor damage on the inside top of the 5.25" bays. It'll be covered/blocked by my radiator so I don't care.
> 
> Also the primo in white costs under $200 now with mail in rebate on newegg, was hard to pass up.


Just goes to show I don't know everything. When Phanteks said they were going to make the Primo in different color schemes they said it would have a blasted finish.
Never noticed them saying any different and haven't seen one so .. I humbly apologize .. and will try to do better.


----------



## Fickle Pickle

With the Enthoo Pro/Luxe, is it possible to have a 240mm rad on the bottom and the front at the same time? Lets say these rads are 35mm.


----------



## GOLDDUBBY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrGrievous*
> 
> Lol I will be using red coolant then
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well that is true if modding the case any is not desired. If you do mod the Primo you can separate the stealth panel which would allow for a 420 to fit in the bottom as long as the rad in no wider than 143mm such as AlphaCool 140mm rads will fit.


Oh. Just remove the panel hehe that sounds so simple. Like as if it was just a clip on pice or something. Actually, if you manage to remove that panel you lose all 3.5 bays, and alot of stability.

Unless we're not thinking of the same panel?


----------



## bond32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GOLDDUBBY*
> 
> Oh. Just remove the panel hehe that sounds so simple. Like as if was just a clip on pice or something. Actually, if you manage to remove that panel you lose all 3.5 bays.


This....

I remember when I had the Primo, it is indeed possible to modify the supports to accomidate a 420, but unless you already own a nice 420, would highly recommend you sell it for a 480 or 360...

On that note, I'm sure it's been covered before, but i'm curious - does using a monsta 360 in push/pull in the bottom allow for the drive cages? At least the top one right?


----------



## MrGrievous

Well when I said separate the panel I meant by cutting it right at the drive cage level to become what is now possible on the Pro/Luxe where you can remove the bottom half of the panel by removing two screws.
I do agree that a 480 would be far simpler lol, I was just giving the possibility of a mod that can be done is all.


----------



## tatmMRKIV

i dunno I have a nice 420 rad...

But there are some nice 380 rads I was looking at.. and black ice rads have gone down quite a bit

I unfortunately need the 5.25" drive bay for blu rays


----------



## WHIMington

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fickle Pickle*
> 
> With the Enthoo Pro/Luxe, is it possible to have a 240mm rad on the bottom and the front at the same time? Lets say these rads are 35mm.


Unfortunately that is not possible, keep in mind you still have to count in the fan thickness, or thought with the pro there is a possibility to mount 12mm thick slim 120mm fan on the outside, which gives you some more room to spare, otherwise you will runs into the spacing problem.


----------



## RnRollie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WHIMington*
> 
> Unfortunately that is not possible, keep in mind you still have to count in the fan thickness, or thought with the pro there is a possibility to mount 12mm thick slim 120mm fan on the outside, which gives you some more room to spare, otherwise you will runs into the spacing problem.


But nobody is stopping you from trying to fit a 200mm radiator in the front...
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_457_1276&products_id=31028


----------



## Accursed Entity

*Enthoo Luxe*

Yes! I was waiting for this one!


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Accursed Entity*
> 
> *Enthoo Luxe*
> 
> Yes! I was waiting for this one!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: VIDEO


Thanks for that. I was waiting for that one too. Rep!

I think this may be the first confirmation 



 that the Luxe will let you fit a row of fans on top of the case under the filter cover so instead of the 65mm from top of the case to mobo with hardly any offset which only lets you fit a 30mm rad with one set of fans up top in the Pro, you can fit a 30mm in push pull or a 45mm or 60mm rad with fans on top in push or pull in the Luxe.


----------



## Screetch82

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tatmMRKIV*
> 
> i dunno I have a nice 420 rad...
> 
> But there are some nice 380 rads I was looking at.. and black ice rads have gone down quite a bit
> 
> I unfortunately need the 5.25" drive bay for blu rays


the primo should allow you to use the drive by for bluray and use the 420 on top as well as a 480 on the bottom.
The manual states a max 70mm thickness for the top rad. so the tickness has an influence of using the top 5.25 bay. I will try and find out specifics.
But this is what I am going for. I should get the case tomorrow and can post pictures and meassurements.. but this has been done in this forum before..


----------



## Screetch82

here it is
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> I haven't noticed 'everyone' recommending that. If you do go that route just be aware that there is 70mm of clearance from the top of the mobo to the top of the case, and there is 43mm of offset for a 140mm-series rad (280, 420) and 53mm of offset for a 120mm-series rad (240, 360, 480).
> 
> Soooo, a 60mm thick rad will fit up top with just one set of fans on top of it, but if you run fans in push-pull the bottom set of fans will have to overhang the top of the mobo by ~15mm, so everything along the top of the mobo (heatsinks, ram, plugs/connectors/wires, etc) will need to be shorter than the offset clearances.
> 
> A 45mm thick rad with fans in push-pull will fit up top pretty much perfect without any overhang, but a thicker rad may pose some clearance issues, especially with a 140mm-series rad. It will depend on what mobo and how tall everything is along the top of it.
> 
> Astote-ap mentioned maybe getting a "_rampage black edition mobo (mostly for colors/waterblock availability)_". I have a RIVBE with XSPC's RIVBE waterblock set in my Enthoo Primo, and no way would an overhanging rad clear the fittings/tubing on the top waterblock. The thickest rad I can have up top in push-pull is 45mm. I've got a 480 XT45 up there in push-pull and it fits perfect.


----------



## Screetch82

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> _*Case*_  *Owner's Club*
> 
> *FAQ*
> ** Kindly donated by user jassilamba (Jesse on theMODZOO) **
> 
> I have been getting questions all over the place, so I decided to take them all and put them in one place. If you have a question on this case, leave a comment and I will get it added in here.
> 
> *What is the max clearance for a radiator installed in the top panel?*
> - The case has a clearance of 70mm for mounting a radiator in the roof. The mounts are offset by ~54mm so installing a 60mm (120mm series) radiator in push pull should not be an issue. As long as you do not have anything taller than 53mm on the motherboard (including ram), you can even install a 480mm monsta radiator in push pull. The X79 Dark, and G-Skill ram CAN be used with a monsta rad in push pull.
> 
> *What is the space between the top of the case, and the top of the top 5.25" drive bay?*
> - The space from the top of the case to the top of the top 5.25" drive bay is 55mm or 2.16 inches. A single drive bay is 41.3mm tall, so 55+41 = 96mm. That is enough space to mount a 45mm or a 60mm rad in push pull and only loose the top drive bay.
> 
> Dont forget the fittings if you have them facing the front as they might take more space and.
> 
> [


so you could have a 45mm rad with only fans in the top and not loose a drive bay at all


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

There is 55mm of space from the top of the top 5.25" drive bay to the top of the Enthoo Primo. So, you could have a 30mm thick 480 or 420 rad in the top in push pull or a 45mm thick 480/420 with just one set of fans on top in push or pull and it wouldn't affect any of your 5.25" drive bays, or you can have a 45mm or 60mm thick 420/480 rad in the top with fans in push pull and it would only affect the top 5.25" drive bay. There are five 5.25" drive bays in all in the Enthoo Primo.

Provided you don't have it slid all the way towards the front, a 420 rad & fans in the top that's thicker than the 55mm space will still leave enough room in the top 5.25" bay for a fan controller or something similar, but a 480 rad will take up pretty much all of that top bay. I have a 45mm 480 rad in push pull in the top and I was just barely able to squeeze in a Koolance Flow meter display (DCB-FM01) in the top bay with the rad & fans right behind it. I have my fan controller and a blu-ray drive in the bays under it, and the bottom two bays are empty.

edit: Didn't see that Screetch82 ninja'd me in the post above.


----------



## Screetch82

yeah found ur old post just before you 
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Provided you don't have it slid all the way towards the front, a 420 rad in the top will still leave enough space in the top 5.25" bay for a fan controller


this is what I will do. Let me know if anyone wants and special pics before i put it all together


----------



## tatmMRKIV

its a thermochill 140.3 atleast 60mm thick

I don't use thin rads... less delta, not enough headroom


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Accursed Entity*
> 
> *Enthoo Luxe*
> 
> Yes! I was waiting for this one!


Thanks!

Bill does very good reviews.


----------



## Loktar Ogar

I hope the front panel of the Pro/Luxe version had the same push to open filter like on top of the Luxe case. That would be more awesome!


----------



## sticks435

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Loktar Ogar*
> 
> I hope the front panel of the Pro/Luxe version had the same push to open filter like on top of the Luxe case. That would be more awesome!


They don't. You have to take the whole front panel off. You can then remove the filter itself from the front panel to clean it or whatever.


----------



## Loktar Ogar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sticks435*
> 
> They don't. You have to take the whole front panel off. You can then remove the filter itself from the front panel to clean it or whatever.


Yeah. I guess i'll just have to wait for thier next pc case and hope they include it.


----------



## Accursed Entity

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Loktar Ogar*
> 
> Yeah. I guess i'll just have to wait for thier next pc case and hope they include it.


But, but it's not *that* hard lol

However, I recommend you to check out the Enthoo Mini! The front panel's filter do pops out when you push it. I love that case but it seems too big for a mATX, I know it's meant at a enthusiast level though.


----------



## Voodoo411

Paint my Bitnefix Spectre fans white and took some new pictures of my Enthoo Pro.


----------



## bond32

Found a solution to my fan hub woes - eliminate the need for a fan controller all together. Using the nzxt grid, I just swapped the 5v and ground pins so the grid only gets 7v. AP-15 fans run around 1100 rpm at 7v which is perfect - almost silent.

Heck I even turned down my D5 to 2900 rpm, my pc with 3x290x's is quite quiet


----------



## RnRollie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> Found a solution to my fan hub woes - eliminate the need for a fan controller all together. Using the nzxt grid, I just swapped the 5v and ground pins so the grid only gets 7v. AP-15 fans run around 1100 rpm at 7v which is perfect - almost silent.
> 
> Heck I even turned down my D5 to 2900 rpm, my pc with 3x290x's is quite quiet


Which is fine AS LONG as you still have other 5v loads EXCEEDING the combined load (amps/watts) coming from the grid.

If you have lotsa fans on the grid and no other loads on the 5v line you are going to end up with a new PSU...

Just say no, step away from the dark side!

Quote:


> *Caution!* There are people, who will say "You can't feed current back into your power-supply" and they are *right!*
> 
> If you plug something between the 12V and 5V lead, you have to be absolutely sure, that no current is fed back into the PSU. Which means, that you need to have other loads on that 5V lead, which suck out more current than you feed to that lead from the 12V lead.
> 
> *For example:* Your fan uses 100mA at 7V. You take 100mA from the 12V lead and feed them into the 5V lead. If you have a different fan (or whatsoever), that sucks out 200mA from the 5V lead and feeds them to ground, you're fine. 100mA are sucked out of the 5V lead, 100mA come from the 12V lead and 200mA go to ground.
> 
> Since usual fans only use 1...3W, you are usually perfectly safe with using the 7V trick there. There a lots of devices in typical computers, which draw much more power out. Peltiers or things with power consumptions running up to dozens of watts, require careful calculation of what goes out of the 5V lead and what's going in there from the 12V lead.


http://www.silentpcreview.com/article6-page1.html


----------



## combat fighter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Voodoo411*
> 
> Paint my Bitnefix Spectre fans white and took some new pictures of my Enthoo Pro.


Like your build!

Could you tell me what tube res your using?


----------



## Accursed Entity

That is one beautiful build...


----------



## fateswarm

White liquid reminds me of milk and milk is for babies. But oh well. It's more beautiful than most cases, and certainly mine.


----------



## Accursed Entity

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fateswarm*
> 
> White liquid reminds me of milk and milk is for babies. But oh well. It's more beautiful than most cases, and certainly mine.


Milk is not just for babies, I love to have my chocolate milk every day before work, and I'm 27. haha


----------



## Roxycon

I love milk too, much proteins







21 years old and a gym rat


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Voodoo411*
> 
> Paint my Bitnefix Spectre fans white and took some new pictures of my Enthoo Pro.


I dont mean to be rude so please dont take it that way, but you should really not keep that PSU its not very good, and if you have any overclocks on your system you really should replace and get a decent PSU.
Its not a 700 watts PSU by the way the 12v rails can only do 552 watts, so its a below average and ancient FSP made 550 watts PSU thats group regulated and is built with cheap capacitors,long story short dont keep it.


----------



## bond32

I would listen to Shilka, honestly never found anyone that comes to close to knowing psu's in an out like he does...


----------



## Accursed Entity

Nobody here is interested in the Enthoo Mini?


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Accursed Entity*
> 
> Nobody here is interested in the Enthoo Mini?


A lot of people are, but it's not likely to be available any time soon. We've been guessing. Based on Phanteks' previous timelines for their cases I estimated the Mini XL and EVOLV cases might show up around Oct, but Doyll, this thread's starter, thinks they won't be here until sometime in 2015.


----------



## Mako0312

They just added the EVOLV, and Mini XL preview to the website.

How long has that been on it?


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mako0312*
> 
> They just added the EVOLV, and Mini XL preview to the website.
> 
> How long has that been on it?


They first showed up there around May 30th.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1492872/yt-phanteks-enthoo-mini-xl/
http://www.overclock.net/t/1492889/yt-phanteks-enthoo-evolv/


----------



## Pis

Bye2, Xigmatek Elysium, say hello to Phanteks Enthoo Primo ^^



http://piskawaiineko.blogspot.com/


----------



## Accursed Entity

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> A lot of people are, but it's not likely to be available any time soon. We've been guessing. Based on Phanteks' previous timelines for their cases I estimated the Mini XL and EVOLV cases might show up around Oct, but Doyll, this thread's starter, thinks they won't be here until sometime in 2015.


I hope for the October release... I'm gonna build around Oct-Nov.


----------



## Voodoo411

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> I dont mean to be rude so please dont take it that way, but you should really not keep that PSU its not very good, and if you have any overclocks on your system you really should replace and get a decent PSU.
> Its not a 700 watts PSU by the way the 12v rails can only do 552 watts, so its a below average and ancient FSP made 550 watts PSU thats group regulated and is built with cheap capacitors,long story short dont keep it.


Thanks for pointing it out. I'll keep it in mind if I do the upgrade in future. I bought the system used 2 yrs ago from a guy whose mother didn't let him play game anymore. After using for awhile I transfer the system to the new Enthoo Pro and put a custom loop on it.
Right now I do a little overclock. The system runs fine. The system only had a GTX670 and a i2600k. Do you think that PSU is enough?


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Voodoo411*
> 
> Thanks for pointing it out. I'll keep it in mind if I do the upgrade in future. I bought the system used 2 yrs ago from a guy whose mother didn't let him play game anymore. After using for awhile I transfer the system to the new Enthoo Pro and put a custom loop on it.
> Right now I do a little overclock. The system runs fine. The system only had a GTX670 and a i2600k. Do you think that PSU is enough?


Yes it is but you should not overclock as much as a MHz with that PSU in the system.


----------



## TallGray

Just wanted to post a little tidbit of info in case anyone needs it!

XSPC 480mm RX480 fits in the bottom of the case without any modifications. It is 130mm wide and the PRIMO is supposed to only fit 125mm. If its old news, disregard it, just wanted to be helpful!

I can post pictures later.

Just installed:

Swiftech H220X
Swiftech Komodo NV LV 780TI GPU Block
XSPC RX480 V3


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TallGray*
> 
> Just wanted to post a little tidbit of info in case anyone needs it!
> 
> XSPC 480mm RX480 fits in the bottom of the case without any modifications. It is 130mm wide and the PRIMO is supposed to only fit 125mm. If its old news, disregard it, just wanted to be helpful!
> 
> I can post pictures later.
> 
> Just installed:
> 
> Swiftech H220X
> Swiftech Komodo NV LV 780TI GPU Block
> XSPC RX480 V3


XSPC's new RX480 V3 rads are billed as 130mm wide and if that's the case then no way will they fit. There is not enough room in the Primo. There is only 125mm of space between the panel with the Phanteks logo plate and the PSU cover. A 124mm wide Alphacool just barely fits in there.

However, the V2 RX480 was 124mm wide and the V1 RX480 was 125mm wide. Either of those will fit.


----------



## Accursed Entity

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TallGray*
> 
> -snip-


Don't forget about the pictures, I want to see that h220x and Komodo!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> -snip-


He's not asking, he's claiming that it fits, let's wait for the pictures to see...


----------



## Voodoo411

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *combat fighter*
> 
> Like your build!
> 
> Could you tell me what tube res your using?


It's a Koolance res. It's huge. With 360 top and 240 bottom, 1L coolant is not enough to fill the res. It's too long, it gave me some trouble changing top rad fans.
I bought it + D5 pump + 6 Bitspower fitting + 360 rad used from a guy for $30. can't complaint.
Oh and you can't use it with Bitspower res cap. the thread is difference.


----------



## dkevox

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Voodoo411*
> 
> Thanks for pointing it out. I'll keep it in mind if I do the upgrade in future. I bought the system used 2 yrs ago from a guy whose mother didn't let him play game anymore. After using for awhile I transfer the system to the new Enthoo Pro and put a custom loop on it.
> Right now I do a little overclock. The system runs fine. The system only had a GTX670 and a i2600k. Do you think that PSU is enough?


Eh, I had an fsp 700 watt psu in my system for 5 years that handled an overclocked sli setup with watercooling just fine. This was from 2006-2011.

Will I say it's the best psu? No, but for the price it did everything I asked of it. I eventually replaced it due to all the negative comments about fsp and that it has split 12v rails that didn't support the current draw of my new gpu's (gtx570s).But never had stability issues until then, so if it's working I say don't worry about it.


----------



## blahtibla

I just ordered the Enthoo Primo and im really looking forward to it. I ended up with a black one. I was looking at the white, but the white was not available in my country and i would have to order from Germany (longer wait hehe).

I have a 480mm Nexxos XT45 on the way as well. I already have 2x 240 XT45 rads, i think i will put one in the bottom and one in the front, then put the 480 in the top. Im gonna run 4x Yate Loon in push in the roof. I have 4x Noctua NF 12s for my 240 rads (gonna hide them in push).

I wonder if the fan hub can handle 3 pin 3 splitter cables? like these BitFenix
http://www.coolerkit.dk/shop/bitfenix-3-pin-til-4283p.html

I really hope, because i will not have enough fan connectors for push/pull in the top for the future.

I wonder if my D5 pump will have trouble handling a 3 radiator loop with GPU and CPU also?? I have a D5 with constant RPM, i cannot set the speed like most D5s can.

Thank you for a nice informative thread. However I would love a dedicated thread for the Primo


----------



## bond32

Your D5 will do fine. People frequently underestimate the capabilities of it.


----------



## combat fighter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Voodoo411*
> 
> It's a Koolance res. It's huge. With 360 top and 240 bottom, 1L coolant is not enough to fill the res. It's too long, it gave me some trouble changing top rad fans.
> I bought it + D5 pump + 6 Bitspower fitting + 360 rad used from a guy for $30. can't complaint.
> Oh and you can't use it with Bitspower res cap. the thread is difference.


Thanks,

I was trying to work out more your dimensions

From what I can tell your res will be 60x240mm (WxL), (471ml)

I want the Alphacool res which is thicker (80mm) but not as long so it gives me some ideas for size.


----------



## TallGray

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> XSPC's new RX480 V3 rads are billed as 130mm wide and if that's the case then no way will they fit. There is not enough room in the Primo. There is only 125mm of space between the panel with the Phanteks logo plate and the PSU cover. A 124mm wide Alphacool just barely fits in there.
> 
> However, the V2 RX480 was 124mm wide and the V1 RX480 was 125mm wide. Either of those will fit.


You sound pretty sure.







RX480 V3 in my case right now, measured at 130mm. I didnt say it was easy, but it fits. I had to disassemble the panel with the logo and the top of the case and then reassemble after putting it in. It does go in at a very slight angle and the bottom cable grommet had to be removed. It does fit though









EDIT: The H220X needs an adapter in order to change out the pump fitting and it is not out yet. I had to use the stock tubing for the pump-cpu-gpu portion so right now it has different color tubing. Hence why I'm holding off to show the final complete product here







sorry


----------



## Accursed Entity

Nice one TallGray, waiting for the complete build.


----------



## Screetch82

Let the fun begin

Enthoo Primo Case White
Gigabyte Z97X-UD5H (already got it delivered+20% cashback)
i7-4790k (got it for cheap in the US)
1x Aquacomputer cuplex kryos Delrin
1x Alphacool NexXxoS UT60 Full Copper 480mm
1x Alphacool NexXxoS XT45 Full Copper 420mm ( i'll use 3 of the 5 fans that come with the case for push for now)
1x Aquacomputer Aquastream XT USB 12V
8x Noiseblocker NB-BlackSilentPRO PL2
1x Alphacool Cape Fuzion Core 10


----------



## combat fighter

Does anyone know if there is enough room to fit the new Alphacool NexXxoS Monsta 420mm Radiator in the top of a Luxe, it's 86mm thick?

Would be great if it does and will swing me to buy a Luxe over a Primo (as I am not too keen with cases with doors).

Also what are the chances of fitting a Alphacool NexXxoS UT60 Full Copper 240mm laying down in the bottom of the Luxe?


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *combat fighter*
> 
> Does anyone know if there is enough room to fit the new Alphacool NexXxoS Monsta 420mm Radiator in the top of a Luxe, it's 86mm thick?


nope.



more images here.


----------



## combat fighter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PureBlackFire*
> 
> nope.
> 
> 
> 
> more images here.


What about the Alphacool NexXxoS UT60 Full Copper 420mm?

Also what are the chances of fitting a Alphacool NexXxoS UT60 Full Copper 240mm laying down in the bottom of the Luxe?


----------



## combat fighter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PureBlackFire*
> 
> nope.
> 
> 
> 
> more images here.


Bummer!

What about the Alphacool NexXxoS UT60 Full Copper 420mm in the top?

Also what are the chances of fitting a Alphacool NexXxoS UT60 Full Copper 240mm laying down in the bottom of the Luxe?


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *combat fighter*
> 
> What about the Alphacool NexXxoS UT60 Full Copper 420mm?
> 
> Also what are the chances of fitting a Alphacool NexXxoS UT60 Full Copper 240mm laying down in the bottom of the Luxe?


the UT60 should fit. at least the thickness won't be an issue. don't know how well the case would accommodate the length and width until I get my hands on it. as for the UT60 240 in the bottom, it's doable.


----------



## combat fighter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PureBlackFire*
> 
> the UT60 should fit. at least the thickness won't be an issue. don't know how well the case would accommodate the length and width until I get my hands on it. as for the UT60 240 in the bottom, it's doable.


Well that's cool if that's possible, makes the Luxe a good alternative. With them two rads combined should have a fair bit of cooling performance.

I was going to go down the route of the Primo with 2x480 rads but the more I look a the Luxe the more I want it!

Currently I'm using a 800D with a 360 rad in the top so I want a decent upgrade!


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Does the Enthoo Primo support Monsta 480 in the top in push? Together with 240 64 mm radiator in the bottom and dual PSU's?

I now have the Corsair Carbide Air 540 and I have very narrow space for HDD's, SSD's and cables. Doing RIVBE, 4x R9 290X and everything is water cooled.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gobigorgohome*
> 
> Does the Enthoo Primo support Monsta 480 in the top in push? Together with 240 64 mm radiator in the bottom and dual PSU's?
> 
> I now have the Corsair Carbide Air 540 and I have very narrow space for HDD's, SSD's and cables. Doing RIVBE, 4x R9 290X and everything is water cooled.


The Enthoo Primo has 70mm from the top of the mobo to the top of the case, with room above that for a set of fans under the top filter cover. It also has ~54mm of offset with 120mm-series rads (360, 480) so that a rad/fans can overhang the mobo so long as there's nothing (ram, heatsinks, etc) along the top of the board taller than 53mm or so.



Soooo, thicker rads like a monsta can fit up top as long as there's nothing too tall along the top of the mobo. A monsta 480 rad is 85mm thick and should really only be run in push pull, which would overhang the top ~40mm of the motherboard.

There's one person in this thread who managed to fit a 420 monsta, a triple 140mm-series rad, in the top of his Primo, and it has 10mm less offset from the mobo (~44mm) than a 120mm-series rad does. So a monsta definitely can fit up top.


----------



## Roxycon

Not monsta but xt45 will fit in push pull and ut 60 is mb and ram dependent if it will fit p/p

The bottom 240 will fit if the width is less than 126 mm although if you're planning dual psu the rad will chew up the bottom hdd chamber

You could mod in the second psu as suggested in the mod zoo overview/review and fit the monsta in the bottom and have space for a bigger than the 240 rad in the top


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> The Enthoo Primo has 70mm from the top of the mobo to the top of the case, with room above that for a set of fans under the top filter cover. It also has ~54mm of offset with 120mm-series rads (360, 480) so that a rad/fans can overhang the mobo so long as there's nothing (ram, heatsinks, etc) along the top of the board taller than 53mm or so.
> 
> 
> 
> Soooo, thicker rads like a monsta can fit up top as long as there's nothing too tall along the top of the mobo. A monsta 480 rad is 85mm thick and should really only be run in push pull, which would overhang the top ~40mm of the motherboard.
> 
> There's one person in this thread who managed to fit a 420 monsta, a triple 140mm-series rad, in the top of his Primo, and it has 10mm less offset from the mobo (~44mm) than a 120mm-series rad does. So a monsta definitely can fit up top.


Okay, bad news for me then. I have fully water cooled RIVBE with MOSFET/CHIPSET, CPU, RAM and GPU blocks, so no go with Monsta 480s and it sure as heck can't take a MO-RA3 1260, might as well stick with what I have then.


----------



## austinmrs

Guys i have a lot of NF A14 FLX Fans. I will buy the Enthoo Luxe as soon as it comes to my city.

Do you guys think that is worthed to sell the Noctua fans and use the Phanteks 14SP on the case? Or should i keep this noctuas and use them?


----------



## rpjkw11

I'm very happy with the fans that came with my Primos so I haven't tried the several Noctuas I'm not using. Frankly, I doubt I'd see much, if any, improvement by using my Noctua fans, but, who knows? It sure wouldn't be much trouble to find out and I'll bet some folks have already.


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *austinmrs*
> 
> Guys i have a lot of NF A14 FLX Fans. I will buy the Enthoo Luxe as soon as it comes to my city.
> 
> Do you guys think that is worthed to sell the Noctua fans and use the Phanteks 14SP on the case? Or should i keep this noctuas and use them?


I would use the Ncotua fans if i where you but try the Phanteks and compared them you might like the Phanteks fans.


----------



## combat fighter

Would I be correct in saying that the best rad config for the Primo would be:

1x Alphacool NexXxoS UT60 560mm in the top (pull or push, doubt there would be enough room for push-pull)
Alternatively if things would be tight with the UT60 you could have the Alphacool NexXxoS XT45 Full Copper 560mm instead in push-pull.

1x Alphacool NexXxoS Monsta 480mm in the bottom in push-pull.

Cheers


----------



## Screetch82

Wehre does The 560 come from. Read the first page of this read and the website for rad options.


----------



## afokke

I've been searching around for a full tower case to plan my first water cooled build in, would the Enthoo Primo be a good choice? I really like the look of this one and all of the features it comes with, but it's only a little bit smaller than Corsair 900D which I never considered due to its sheer size alone. However I may overlook that because this case is so flexible. Would this worth the money to someone who is new to water cooling?

I was planning on a 360mm + 240mm radiator, but now I guess I can step one of them up to 480mm.


----------



## combat fighter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Screetch82*
> 
> Wehre does The 560 come from. Read the first page of this read and the website for rad options.


That's the reason I asked as there is no mention of the 560 rad on the first page?

I would like to know if it can fit in the top of the Primo.

Can be found here:
http://www.alphacool.com/product_info.php/info/p1032_Alphacool-NexXxoS-UT60-Full-Copper-560mm.html


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *combat fighter*
> 
> That's the reason I asked as there is no mention of the 560 rad on the first page?
> 
> I would like to know if it can fit in the top of the Primo.
> 
> Can be found here:
> http://www.alphacool.com/product_info.php/info/p1032_Alphacool-NexXxoS-UT60-Full-Copper-560mm.html


No. A 480 rad fills the top of the Primo from front to back. The largest 140mm series rad it can fit up top is a 420. It cannot fit a 560.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *afokke*
> 
> I've been searching around for a full tower case to plan my first water cooled build in, would the Enthoo Primo be a good choice? I really like the look of this one and all of the features it comes with, but it's only a little bit smaller than Corsair 900D which I never considered due to its sheer size alone. However I may overlook that because this case is so flexible. Would this worth the money to someone who is new to water cooling?
> 
> I was planning on a 360mm + 240mm radiator, but now I guess I can step one of them up to 480mm.


You could step both of them up to a 480 if you want. Or, if you put your 360 in the bottom and put a 480 in the top, you can keep all of the HDD bays intact, whereas a 480 in the bottom will require removing the bottom HDD bay.

In any case the Primo, and any of the other Phanteks cases, have been designed with watercooling in mind so that you might be able to install a full custom loop with multiple rads and not have to mod a single thing, which has heretofore been pretty unheard of short of something like a Caselabs. Pretty much makes them ideal for someone new to watercooling.


----------



## Dorito Bandit

*Enthoo Pro*

*Homemade Foam Dust Filter*

The front panel piece of the Enthoo Pro has a dust filter, but it ONLY covers the front portion. The bottom and side vents of the front piece are NOT protected and could easily allow dust to be sucked in from there. My solution to this is to cover them with a thin foam. This type of foam may also be used to cover any other opening in your case that you feel the need to cover.

Here is an awesome graphic explaining this in great detail! The artist of this graphic did a superb job in creating it.











Here's a look on the inside of the front panel piece showing the foam secured in place over the unprotected vents with tape.



Thanks to doyll for bringing the bottom vent to my attention. I totally overlooked that vent.


----------



## WHIMington

Given the
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dorito Bandit*
> 
> *Enthoo Pro*
> 
> *Homemade Foam Dust Filter*
> 
> The front panel piece of the Enthoo Pro has a dust filter, but it ONLY covers the front portion. The side vents of the front piece are NOT protected and could easily allow dust to be sucked in from there. My solution to this is to cover it with a thin foam, or whatever size you prefer. This type of foam may also be used to cover any other opening in your case that you feel the need to cover.
> 
> I was unable to take a picture at this time, but here is an awesome graphic explaining this in great detail! The artist of this graphic did a superb job in creating it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Given the large intake area that the front have, I simply just cover it with black masking tape


----------



## tatmMRKIV

after building this Enthoo Primo all day I must say it is truly a dream

Cable management is the best I have ever seen

Aside from the res bracket getting in the way of some things there really isn't much I can complain about

and its just such a thoroughly thought out case.

I can't wait for my order of watercooling parts!


----------



## Screetch82

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Screetch82*
> 
> Let the fun begin
> 
> Enthoo Primo Case White
> Gigabyte Z97X-UD5H (already got it delivered+20% cashback)
> i7-4790k (got it for cheap in the US)
> 1x Aquacomputer cuplex kryos Delrin
> 1x Alphacool NexXxoS UT60 Full Copper 480mm
> 1x Alphacool NexXxoS XT45 Full Copper 420mm ( i'll use 3 of the 5 fans that come with the case for push for now)
> 1x Aquacomputer Aquastream XT USB 12V
> 8x Noiseblocker NB-BlackSilentPRO PL2
> 1x Alphacool Cape Fuzion Core 10


So I started building. Here are a few shots that were asked for. I hope you can see the clearances


----------



## fateswarm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dorito Bandit*
> 
> *Homemade Foam Dust Filter*


There is no flow from there of any significance.


----------



## RnRollie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Screetch82*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Screetch82*
> 
> Let the fun begin
> 
> Enthoo Primo Case White
> Gigabyte Z97X-UD5H (already got it delivered+20% cashback)
> i7-4790k (got it for cheap in the US)
> 1x Aquacomputer cuplex kryos Delrin
> 1x Alphacool NexXxoS UT60 Full Copper 480mm
> 1x Alphacool NexXxoS XT45 Full Copper 420mm ( i'll use 3 of the 5 fans that come with the case for push for now)
> 1x Aquacomputer Aquastream XT USB 12V
> 8x Noiseblocker NB-BlackSilentPRO PL2
> 1x Alphacool Cape Fuzion Core 10
> 
> 
> Spoiler: --snip--
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I started building. Here are a few shots that were asked for. I hope you can see the clearances
> 
> 
> Spoiler: --snip--
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: --snip--
Click to expand...

Interesting.. are you going for "top down/pushing air out of the bottom" cooling or did you just bolt the fans in push/push on the bottom radiator?


----------



## Screetch82

Lol darn.. It was getting late and I fussed about with the fans for hours. I tried to use the rubber frames on the fans but then found that it adds width to the fan and the fan screw holes would no longer line up with the rad.. Must have turned the top fans the wrong way around. The airflow is case inward.. So yeah need to turn the top 4 around. Not home until I fly back late today. Thanks.. Would have been funny to see which bank of fans wins


----------



## combat fighter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Screetch82*
> 
> Lol darn.. It was getting late and I fussed about with the fans for hours. I tried to use the rubber frames on the fans but then found that it adds width to the fan and the fan screw holes would no longer line up with the rad.. Must have turned the top fans the wrong way around. The airflow is case inward.. So yeah need to turn the top 4 around. Not home until I fly back late today. Thanks.. Would have been funny to see which bank of fans wins


How come you did not go with the Alphacool NexXxoS Monsta 480mm in the bottom, there is loads of room for it even in push pull.

Also why not a Alphacool NexXxoS XT45 Radiator 480 in the top?

Surely that would give better performance?


----------



## Fantomau

My Enthoo Primo. Ordered the MNPCTech slotted grill for the front and plan to change the LED strips to red and power/hdd LEDs to white and put a small led strip below the Phanteks logo on small window.

Love this case.


----------



## Slowz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Screetch82*
> 
> Let the fun begin
> 
> Enthoo Primo Case White
> Gigabyte Z97X-UD5H (already got it delivered+20% cashback)
> i7-4790k (got it for cheap in the US)
> 1x Aquacomputer cuplex kryos Delrin
> 1x Alphacool NexXxoS UT60 Full Copper 480mm
> 1x Alphacool NexXxoS XT45 Full Copper 420mm ( i'll use 3 of the 5 fans that come with the case for push for now)
> 1x Aquacomputer Aquastream XT USB 12V
> 8x Noiseblocker NB-BlackSilentPRO PL2
> 1x Alphacool Cape Fuzion Core 10


Can't wait so see your complete build! I will order almost identical watercooling stuff with Enthoo Luxe case.
(1x Alphacool UT45 Full Copper 420mm, Aquastream XT, Alphacool Nexxxos XP³...)


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dorito Bandit*
> 
> *Enthoo Pro*
> 
> *Homemade Foam Dust Filter*
> 
> The front panel piece of the Enthoo Pro has a dust filter, but it ONLY covers the front portion. The side vents of the front piece are NOT protected and could easily allow dust to be sucked in from there. My solution to this is to cover it with a thin foam, or whatever size you prefer. This type of foam may also be used to cover any other opening in your case that you feel the need to cover.
> 
> I was unable to take a picture at this time, but here is an awesome graphic explaining this in great detail! The artist of this graphic did a superb job in creating it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Did you add a filter on the bottom slot vent too?








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tatmMRKIV*
> 
> after building this Enthoo Primo all day I must say it is truly a dream
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Cable management is the best I have ever seen
> 
> Aside from the res bracket getting in the way of some things there really isn't much I can complain about
> 
> and its just such a thoroughly thought out case.
> 
> I can't wait for my order of watercooling parts!


Nope, it's not a dream. You really did build it.


----------



## Screetch82

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *combat fighter*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Screetch82*
> 
> Lol darn.. It was getting late and I fussed about with the fans for hours. I tried to use the rubber frames on the fans but then found that it adds width to the fan and the fan screw holes would no longer line up with the rad.. Must have turned the top fans the wrong way around. The airflow is case inward.. So yeah need to turn the top 4 around. Not home until I fly back late today. Thanks.. Would have been funny to see which bank of fans wins
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> How come you did not go with the Alphacool NexXxoS Monsta 480mm in the bottom, there is loads of room for it even in push pull.
> 
> Also why not a Alphacool NexXxoS XT45 Radiator 480 in the top?
> 
> Surely that would give better performance?
Click to expand...

Hi..see my list. I have a 480 in the bottom. You can see in the pics this is the max size. I have a triple 140mm rad in the top.. Since it's wider but shorter there is not too much difference to a quad 120mm rad.. However the shorter length is favorable Since it allows me to use the top 5.25 bay for a fan controller. A top 480 would block the space..


----------



## Screetch82

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slowz*
> 
> Can't wait so see your complete build! I will order almost identical watercooling stuff with Enthoo Luxe case.
> (1x Alphacool UT45 Full Copper 420mm, Aquastream XT, Alphacool Nexxxos XP³...)


Scroll up to see some pics of my build


----------



## combat fighter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Screetch82*
> 
> Lol darn.. It was getting late and I fussed about with the fans for hours. I tried to use the rubber frames on the fans but then found that it adds width to the fan and the fan screw holes would no longer line up with the rad.. Must have turned the top fans the wrong way around. The airflow is case inward.. So yeah need to turn the top 4 around. Not home until I fly back late today. Thanks.. Would have been funny to see which bank of fans wins


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Screetch82*
> 
> Hi..see my list. I have a 480 in the bottom. You can see in the pics this is the max size. I have a triple 140mm rad in the top.. Since it's wider but shorter there is not too much difference to a quad 120mm rad.. However the shorter length is favorable Since it allows me to use the top 5.25 bay for a fan controller. A top 480 would block the space..


I agree with you about the 420mm in the top as you say it must be pretty much equal to a 480 being wider.

I know its a 480 rad in the bottom, just wonder why you did not go for the Monsta 480mm (86mm deep) version when you have the space?


----------



## Screetch82

Because for a monsta you need a certain amount of airflow and thus a higher rpm on the fans then for the ut60 which is still impressive. So I wanted it to be more quite.. Plus he big benefit of the monsta is in the higher rpm range when you compare it to he thinner one.. Since I will never go higher than 1500 I would see not much benefit from the monsta.

Secondly it would actually block the side wholes which have the rubber edge covers. The ut60 with push pull just raises up to the edge and thus I can now use them to run pipes through.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Screetch82*
> 
> Because for a monsta you need a certain amount of airflow and thus a higher rpm on the fans then for the ut60 which is still impressive. So I wanted it to be more quite.. Plus he big benefit of the monsta is in the higher rpm range when you compare it to he thinner one.. Since I will never go higher than 1500 I would see not much benefit from the monsta.
> 
> Secondly it would actually block the side wholes which have the rubber edge covers. The ut60 with push pull just raises up to the edge and thus I can now use them to run pipes through.


I'm not knocking your choice of a UT60 in the bottom over a monsta for whatever your reasons. It's a good performing rad and looks good in your build so far.









But I would point out that a monsta @ 1200rpms with a single set of fans outperforms all other rads including that UT60, and it does the same at lower fans speeds when run in push-pull which adds a performance benefit of 15-30% to all rads with the greater benefits to thicker rads. tldr: A monsta in push-pull starts to outperform a ut60 in push-pull at around 900-1000rpms.


----------



## Screetch82

****.. Really? In all my research it said differently.. Even all the tests said a low rpm ut60 is better than a monsta


----------



## Screetch82

Can you give me numbers or a link where it shows a comparison of both at around 900
Rpm in push pull?


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Screetch82*
> 
> Can you give me numbers or a link where it shows a comparison of both at around 900
> Rpm in push pull?


I can say that from my personal experience and it is reflected in Bundy's testing which shows that Alphacool's Monsta outperforms all other rads at single-side fan speeds of 1200rpm or more and Martin's testing which finds that push-pull tends to net performance increases from 15% to 30% over just push or pull on all rads, but with the highest gains to be had on thicker rads and less-so with thinner ones. It's too bad Martin never tested the Monsta or any rad over 60mm or I have to believe his 30% upper range of push-pull benefits would be more like 35%.

Sure at the lowest fan speeds they will spin at a thinner rad will beat a thicker one, but especially in push pull speeds don't have to be all that fast before the thicker rads overtake them. Unfortunately all the comparative rad testing done between models/brands - the charts you can find comparing them - has been done using single sets of fans, and more often than not, not very good performing rad fans at that which unfortunately preferences thinner rads and inflates fan speeds even more in their findings over what you will see IRL with better fans especially in push pull.


----------



## tatmMRKIV

yeah but exactly how highspeed of fans are you gonna need to move air through that monsta

I'd just get a UT60 montsa is just too much for a negligible improvement. plus its gonna be LOUD with whatever fans you would need

But yeha I don't agree with those comparisons either as they go by fan RPM for fan speed. which literally does not correlate to it ability to move air there are huge variations with CFM and static pressure between different models at the same RPM

I am pretty sure though if you want to drive thick rads like those you need delta fans... which are ungodly loud

like leafblowers


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

^ That is just not true

I run Gelid Wings 120s on my 360 monsta and a 480 XT45 at around 800-900rpms. My CW611 will start to ramp up fan speeds in steps if loop temps go more than 2C over the 25C target temp I have set, but that rarely happens except under load and then only briefly to around 1000rpms before loop temps drop and it bumps fan speeds back down. Even if I manually set all my fans on 12v they run at 1500rpms max and are still VERY quiet fans. They're not the greatest performing rad fans but they're not slouches either (I went with them mostly for the color, but also because Tater Tot recommended them) and are easily the quietest I've ever had, and I've had a many.

I've put my rads on the bench a couple times to compare them - the monsta is on the bench right now while I finish what should be the last mods to my Primo loop at least for a while - with AP-15s in push-pull and at around 1000rpms my 360 Monsta starts to outperform my 480 XT45, and GTs at 1000rpms are as silent as a fan on a rad gets. So much for the maxim that surface area always trumps thickness.

My new build I've recently started collecting the parts for is going to be a TH10A with four 480 monstas and two 240 monstas all with Gentle Typhoon AP-45s/AP-00s in push pull. I have all the fans already and an Aquaero 6 to control them if loop temps rise, but I suspect they're probably going to stay running at a nice silent 800rpms 24/7 even under load.


----------



## Dorito Bandit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fateswarm*
> 
> There is no flow from there of any significance.


Dust could come through there, so it won't hurt to cover it.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Did you add a filter on the bottom slot vent too?


I have now that you brought it to my attention.







I totally overlooked that vent. I got distracted by one of my fine neighbors walking her dog in the neighborhood. I was in a hurry to get outside and drool, I mean stare at her as she walked by.









I modified the original post about this with another graphic and picture showing the foam in place.


----------



## RnRollie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dorito Bandit*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *fateswarm*
> 
> There is no flow from there of any significance.
> 
> 
> 
> Dust could come through there, so it won't hurt to cover it.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Did you add a filter on the bottom slot vent too?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I have now that you brought it to my attention.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I totally overlooked that vent. I got distracted by one of my fine neighbors walking her dog in the neighborhood. *I was in a hurry to get outside and drool, I mean stare at her as she walked by*.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I modified the original post about this with another graphic and picture showing the foam in place.
Click to expand...

lol, i wonder what she would would find more creepy... the







or the







.......
maybe next time, just









Either way, the chances of a restraining order remain 33%


----------



## schoolofmonkey

Which one of these fans would you guys use as bottom intakes?

http://s1294.photobucket.com/user/schoolofmonkey2/media/20140803_130454_zps2599a429.jpg.html

The Phanteks make a hum at lower RPM's, thats why I was asking.


----------



## RnRollie

the industrials


----------



## MrGrievous

Just put an order in for my build, just waiting on the Luxe now

1 x *** NEW *** EK-Supremacy Clean CSQ - Nickel + Plexi
Fitting Size 1/2" Barb for 1/2" ID tube $72.95
1 x Alphacool VPP655 Single Edition D5 Pump
1 x *** NEW *** Mayhems X1 Blood Red Concentrate - 250ml
1 x Water Cooling Funnel - Filling Assistance
1 x *** NEW *** EK-RES X3 - Tube 250 (204mm)
1 x *** NEW *** EK-RES X3 Holder 60mm
1 x EK-RES X3 - Internal Tube 12/16 - 40mm
1 x EK-RES X3 - Multiport Top - White
4 x EK G1/4 plug with O-ring
1 x EK-RES X3 - Top - White
1 x EK-D5 X-TOP CSQ - White Acetal
1 x Alphacool NexXxoS XT45 Full Copper 420mm
10 x PrimoFlex Pro LRT Clear Tubing -3/8in. ID X 1/2in. OD
1 x Bitspower Mini Dual G1/4" High Flow Fitting - Deluxe White Finish
1 x XSPC G1/4" to (10mm) 3/8" Barb Fitting - Chrome Finish
6 x XSPC G1/4 to 3/8 ID 1/2 OD Compression Fitting - Chrome


----------



## RnRollie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrGrievous*
> 
> Just put an order in for my build, just waiting on the Luxe now
> 
> 1 x *** NEW *** EK-Supremacy Clean CSQ - Nickel + Plexi
> Fitting Size 1/2" Barb for 1/2" ID tube $72.95
> 1 x Alphacool VPP655 Single Edition D5 Pump
> 1 x *** NEW *** Mayhems X1 Blood Red Concentrate - 250ml
> 1 x Water Cooling Funnel - Filling Assistance
> 1 x *** NEW *** EK-RES X3 - Tube 250 (204mm)
> 1 x *** NEW *** EK-RES X3 Holder 60mm
> 1 x EK-RES X3 - Internal Tube 12/16 - 40mm
> 1 x EK-RES X3 - Multiport Top - White
> 4 x EK G1/4 plug with O-ring
> 1 x EK-RES X3 - Top - White
> 1 x EK-D5 X-TOP CSQ - White Acetal
> 1 x Alphacool NexXxoS XT45 Full Copper 420mm
> 10 x PrimoFlex Pro LRT Clear Tubing -3/8in. ID X 1/2in. OD
> 1 x Bitspower Mini Dual G1/4" High Flow Fitting - Deluxe White Finish
> 1 x XSPC G1/4" to (10mm) 3/8" Barb Fitting - Chrome Finish
> 6 x XSPC G1/4 to 3/8 ID 1/2 OD Compression Fitting - Chrome


there, i fixed your list for you









Unless you are fully aware of the consequences of red dye, and are willign to live withthem.


----------



## WHIMington

Red dye is not the problem, *RED UV* dye is the problem.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brian-phanteks*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *skydog71*
> 
> Does anybody know where to buy an LED extension cable for the 140mm LED fans? Or does anybody know the names of the connectors? I've got an LED fan installed on the bottom rear of the case and I'm about 100mm short of reaching the closest LED fan inlet on the Primo control switch. I could probably bridge the gap by clipping the connectors, twisting a pair of copper wires to both ends, and tidying it up with some electrical tape --- but I'd rather not put my setup under the knife unless absolutely necessary.
> 
> 
> 
> Try giving a search for JST EL-2P. Those are the connectors you are looking for.
Click to expand...

@brian
Would you happen to know the connector model number for the Enthoo Primo LED strip light connector?

Thanks


----------



## MrGrievous

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RnRollie*
> 
> there, i fixed your list for you
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Unless you are fully aware of the consequences of red dye, and are willign to live withthem.


Honestly I don't care if the blocks get stained any. Unless staining somehow affects temps? But I do know that there are several factors that play into wether it will like how long the coolant is in the loop, how hot the it gets etc. all play a roll.


----------



## makn

What fan setup are you guys using on the Enthoo Primo?

Should the TOP fans be INTAKE or EXHAUST?

Saw this:


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *makn*
> 
> What fan setup are you guys using on the Enthoo Primo?
> 
> Should the TOP fans be INTAKE or EXHAUST?
> 
> Saw this:


Exhaust otherwise you have way too much air coming in and too little going out.


----------



## makn

Ok was thinking like this; kinda standard i suppose.
Im not going to use water ,, maybe later

FRONT 2 x 140mm INTAKE
BOTTOM 2 x 140mm INTAKE
REAR 2 x 120mm EXHAUST (cpu cooler h80i)
TOP 1 x 140mm EXHAUST

Or do you have any other fan setup that is "better" ?


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *makn*
> 
> Ok was thinking like this; kinda standard i suppose.
> Im not going to use water ,, maybe later
> 
> FRONT 2 x 140mm INTAKE
> BOTTOM 2 x 140mm INTAKE
> REAR 2 x 120mm EXHAUST (cpu cooler h80i)
> TOP 1 x 140mm EXHAUST
> 
> Or do you have any other fan setup that is "better" ?


A Noctua NH-U12S or NH-U14S is a better cooler then the H80i is way more quiet.


----------



## schoolofmonkey

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *makn*
> 
> What fan setup are you guys using on the Enthoo Primo?
> 
> Should the TOP fans be INTAKE or EXHAUST?


Coming from someone who has put my H110 as intake an exhaust, there really isn't much difference.
Exhaust can be noticed more when gaming, CPU temps will go up but nothing to worry about, Even Battlefield 4 can't stress a CPU that much.
This also depends on what GPU you have, Reference or blower style.

With intake, the CPU temps do go down, but GPU temps go up, the rear exhaust fan/s need to be turned up higher to get rid of the pooling hot air.

To me exhausting through the RAD is the better option, 2/3c isn't going to make much difference.
Just lower the rear exhaust fan closer to the GPU and you'll find that catch most of the really hot air before it hits the RAD.


----------



## Accursed Entity

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> Exhaust otherwise you have way too much air coming in and too little going out.


That it's called positive air pressure and it's not bad. I've always done it, and in a lot of cases you get better temps that way. I'm not saying top exhaust is bad, I'm just saying that his way(top intake) isn't bad either.

A little read.
http://www.silverstonetek.com/techtalk_cont.php?tid=wh_positive&area=en


----------



## MrGrievous

Speaking of fans how good are the Phanteks fans, for those using them particularly on radiators are you happy with them?


----------



## MrGrievous

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Accursed Entity*
> 
> That it's called positive air pressure and it's not bad. I've always done it, and in a lot of cases you get better temps that way. I'm not saying top exhaust is bad, I'm just saying that his way(top intake) isn't bad either.
> 
> A little read.
> http://www.silverstonetek.com/techtalk_cont.php?tid=wh_positive&area=en


And here's a 



 of case pressure as well


----------



## Accursed Entity

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrGrievous*
> 
> And here's a
> 
> 
> 
> of case pressure as well


Nice, it's always good to inform people how it actually works.


----------



## Screetch82

hi, i have done it.. got my first water cooling build together. it is super quite.. only the light gives away that the pc is running. A few issues when finishing the build. had to rewire the fans so the cables are hidding and all go to the mobo fan headers. For now I dont really need a fan controller.

Got 8 fans hocked up to one fan head, aonther 3 to a second and the intake and outake case fans to the third. the pump is connected straight to the powersupply. not quite sure about the 8 fans on one socket. So mabye will split this into 2 groups of four as I still have one case fan header left.
I control them via the Gigabye fan tool. Speedfan doesnt seem to work

Also had a small leak whilst filling it up. I either didnt tighten the pipes properly or the compression fitting really isnt the best. I also had huge issues to get the loop to fill and drain it of air. I wasnt really sure of how to do it. Now it seems full and there are only a few bubbles on the side wall of the res tank.

you can see the bubbles whilst the pump pushes through and over time they became less and less. The Aquastream actually also has a filling program which is nice.


you can see some of pipes from top to bottom rad are somewhat hidden.



just about fit under the desk


up an running. The bottom fan cables dont look super nice, but its ok for now. Any ideas? Also a mixture of colour.Whilst most
of my stuff is black white and using the color red.. the yello mobo doesnt really work. I added some UV lights to the res tank but
they are quite weak and just turned out purple and not UV. However the tank allows for a huge CCL in the middle. so i might do that.


----------



## Dorito Bandit

*Enthoo Pro*

Phanteks Enthoo Pro Overview + Component Install + Benchmark






*More Enthoo Pro videos found in here.*


----------



## Dorito Bandit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Screetch82*
> 
> hi, i have done it.. got my first water cooling build together. it is super quite.. only the light gives away that the pc is running. A few issues when finishing the build. had to rewire the fans so the cables are hidding and all go to the mobo fan headers. For now I dont really need a fan controller.
> 
> Got 8 fans hocked up to one fan head, aonther 3 to a second and the intake and outake case fans to the third. the pump is connected straight to the powersupply. not quite sure about the 8 fans on one socket. So mabye will split this into 2 groups of four as I still have one case fan header left.
> I control them via the Gigabye fan tool. Speedfan doesnt seem to work
> 
> Also had a small leak whilst filling it up. I either didnt tighten the pipes properly or the compression fitting really isnt the best. I also had huge issues to get the loop to fill and drain it of air. I wasnt really sure of how to do it. Now it seems full and there are only a few bubbles on the side wall of the res tank.
> 
> you can see the bubbles whilst the pump pushes through and over time they became less and less. The Aquastream actually also has a filling program which is nice.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> you can see some of pipes from top to bottom rad are somewhat hidden.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> just about fit under the desk
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> up an running. The bottom fan cables dont look super nice, but its ok for now. Any ideas? Also a mixture of colour.Whilst most
> of my stuff is black white and using the color red.. the yello mobo doesnt really work. I added some UV lights to the res tank but
> they are quite weak and just turned out purple and not UV. However the tank allows for a huge CCL in the middle. so i might do that.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Nice job, man! Beautiful build.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *makn*
> 
> What fan setup are you guys using on the Enthoo Primo?
> 
> Should the TOP fans be INTAKE or EXHAUST?
> 
> Saw this:


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *makn*
> 
> Ok was thinking like this; kinda standard i suppose.
> Im not going to use water ,, maybe later
> 
> FRONT 2 x 140mm INTAKE
> BOTTOM 2 x 140mm INTAKE
> REAR 2 x 120mm EXHAUST (cpu cooler h80i)
> TOP 1 x 140mm EXHAUST
> 
> Or do you have any other fan setup that is "better" ?


Why use so many fans? 2x front and 2x bottom will supply more air than CPU and GPU can use .. an that is all that is needed.
Trying to use all front, bottom and top as intakes is using too many intake vents/areas and leaving very little exhaust vent/area. With good intake fan (PH-F140HP are good) we don't need fans on all exhaust vents. The heated cooler exhaust will flow / be pushed out by the cool intake airflow going to components.

When air cooling we have to be careful to remove the heated air from GPU without it mixing into cool air going to CPU cooler, so sometime a top intake to flow cool air to CPU is helpful.


----------



## Screetch82

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Trying to use all front, bottom and top as intakes is using too many intake vents/areas and leaving very little exhaust vent/area. With good intake fan (PH-F140HP are good) we don't need fans on all exhaust vents. The heated cooler exhaust will flow / be pushed out by the cool intake airflow going to components.


I have the bottom and front as intake and the back and top as exhaust. so it makes sense to have a diagonal air flow from bottom front to top back. Does this make sense?


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrGrievous*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Accursed Entity*
> 
> That it's called positive air pressure and it's not bad. I've always done it, and in a lot of cases you get better temps that way. I'm not saying top exhaust is bad, I'm just saying that his way(top intake) isn't bad either.
> 
> A little read.
> http://www.silverstonetek.com/techtalk_cont.php?tid=wh_positive&area=en
> 
> 
> 
> And here's a
> 
> 
> 
> of case pressure as well
Click to expand...

Read is good,








Video guy likes to hear himself talk.


----------



## RnRollie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Screetch82*
> 
> hi, i have done it.. got my first water cooling build together. it is super quite.. only the light gives away that the pc is running. A few issues when finishing the build. had to rewire the fans so the cables are hidding and all go to the mobo fan headers. For now I dont really need a fan controller.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Got 8 fans hocked up to one fan head, aonther 3 to a second and the intake and outake case fans to the third. the pump is connected straight to the powersupply. not quite sure about the 8 fans on one socket. So mabye will split this into 2 groups of four as I still have one case fan header left.
> I control them via the Gigabye fan tool. Speedfan doesnt seem to work
> 
> Also had a small leak whilst filling it up. I either didnt tighten the pipes properly or the compression fitting really isnt the best. I also had huge issues to get the loop to fill and drain it of air. I wasnt really sure of how to do it. Now it seems full and there are only a few bubbles on the side wall of the res tank.
> 
> you can see the bubbles whilst the pump pushes through and over time they became less and less. The Aquastream actually also has a filling program which is nice.
> 
> 
> you can see some of pipes from top to bottom rad are somewhat hidden.
> 
> 
> 
> just about fit under the desk
> 
> 
> 
> up an running. The bottom fan cables dont look super nice, but its ok for now. Any ideas? Also a mixture of colour.Whilst most
> of my stuff is black white and using the color red.. the yello mobo doesnt really work. I added some UV lights to the res tank but
> they are quite weak and just turned out purple and not UV. However the tank allows for a huge CCL in the middle. so i might do that.



















You have to reach for your inner Laurence Llewelyn-Bowen









You can offset the "gold" of the MB by strategically placing (short) yellow/orange flex led strip.
Not much, not bright, just a little accent/hue.. subtle does it... like lighting the logo/badge in the small window... or the front fans to get a "golden glow" from behind the fan cover panel...

You need to get a subdued diffuse "golden" glow somewhere away from the MB -without clashing- to make it pleasing on the eye.

Maybe bitfenix http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=72_107_1246_836 or maybe some EL wire http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=72_98&products_id=938

but .. definitely NOT a yellow CCFL in the reservoir... that will NOT look good


----------



## blahtibla

So, my Primo build is almost done. She passed the leak test, still got some work to do on tidying the cables. Must say im very pleased with this case, what a breeze it was to build in







Definbately will recommend this case for any water cooler!



Water Cooling

2x 240mm Alphacool XT45 rads (mounted bottom and front, intake)
1x 480mm Alphacool XT45 rad (mounted roof, exhaust)
EK D5 X res combo (mounted at the HDD bays)
XSPC Raystorm CPU block
EK FC780 Classy waterblock
EK fittings
4x Noctua NF f12
4x Yate Loons 1350 rpm

Components

Asus z87-a
i5 4670k (4.5Ghz @ 1.25v)
EVGA 780 Classified (1330/6800 @ 1.25v)
Corsair RM850
8 gb kingston memory
250GB Samsung EVO SSD
2 TB Seagate HDD (mounted in drive bay).

Temp results:

Intel XTU stress test:
2 hours run

CPU Average temp 59 degrees
CPU max temp 66 degrees

2 hours of far cry 3 at 2540x1440 Ultra settings

GPU max temp 48 degrees


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Screetch82*
> 
> I have the bottom and front as intake and the back and top as exhaust. so it makes sense to have a diagonal air flow from bottom front to top back. Does this make sense?


Yes .. as long as everything is staying cool.








Every build creates different airflow patterns. Even in same case. CPU cooler cfm, GPU cooler cfm, size of coolers, cable management, HDD placement, etc all effect airflow. This is why I almost always do some airflow and temperature tests with a temperature probe monitoring temps in front of cooler intakes and hot components. In this way I can adjust airflow to supply coolest possible air to components that need it. Second link in sig give a general Idea of what I do and what I use to monitor temps inside of case.


----------



## WHIMington

This arrived my home today



Box was a little beaten up, but nothing inside have any form of damage






I also got the 1 meter light strip



The window is a bit scratch up by the non-tiedown accessory box, but only very lightly, one thing that Phanteks should improve IMO(and very easily ot fix: just add another plastic protective film on the inside)

Otherwise, there is nothing wrong with the case


----------



## PureBlackFire

when did your case ship out?


----------



## WHIMington

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PureBlackFire*
> 
> when did your case ship out?


It actually only needs a few days to ship, that's one thing good living near mainland China


----------



## combat fighter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WHIMington*
> 
> It actually only needs a few days to ship, that's one thing good living near mainland China


Quality mate looking forward to seeing your build! Have you decided what rad(s) your going to install?

If I went with the Luxe (Im still undecided between it and the Primo) I would install:

1x Alphacool NexXxoS UT60 Full Copper 420mm in the top
1x Alphacool NexXxoS UT60 Full Copper 240mm in the bottom (laying down)

Really hoping this combo of rads will fit as IF it does then I think I'll go for a Luxe.

I would hope there would be enough room by taking out the bottom drive cage for the rad to lay flat, but for me I would still need the top cage as I have 3 HD's.

Any thoughts?


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *combat fighter*
> 
> Quality mate looking forward to seeing your build! Have you decided what rad(s) your going to install?
> 
> If I went with the Luxe (Im still undecided between it and the Primo) I would install:
> 
> 1x Alphacool NexXxoS UT60 Full Copper 420mm in the top
> 1x Alphacool NexXxoS UT60 Full Copper 240mm in the bottom (laying down)
> 
> Really hoping this combo of rads will fit as IF it does then I think I'll go for a Luxe.
> 
> I would hope there would be enough room by taking out the bottom drive cage for the rad to lay flat, but for me I would still need the top cage as I have 3 HD's.
> 
> Any thoughts?


this type of setup is possible in the Luxe for sure. just remember, you can't do push/pull with the UT60 in the top. here's a pic of the top HDD cage mounted under the ODD bays:


----------



## shilka

I am buying a Luxe soon and i was wondering i dont need both HDD´s cages so i am going to take one of the two out, but which one should i take out the top or bottom one? if i take the op one out that would let more air go stright on to the video cards so to me that makes more sense.


----------



## brian-phanteks

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> @brian
> Would you happen to know the connector model number for the Enthoo Primo LED strip light connector?
> 
> Thanks


@doyll
Try giving a search for

2 Pin Female Fan Connector Housing
2 Pin Male Fan Connector Housing


----------



## WHIMington

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *combat fighter*
> 
> Quality mate looking forward to seeing your build! Have you decided what rad(s) your going to install?
> 
> If I went with the Luxe (Im still undecided between it and the Primo) I would install:
> 
> 1x Alphacool NexXxoS UT60 Full Copper 420mm in the top
> 1x Alphacool NexXxoS UT60 Full Copper 240mm in the bottom (laying down)
> 
> Really hoping this combo of rads will fit as IF it does then I think I'll go for a Luxe.
> 
> I would hope there would be enough room by taking out the bottom drive cage for the rad to lay flat, but for me I would still need the top cage as I have 3 HD's.
> 
> Any thoughts?


I am going for a 360 XT45 in push on top and a 240 UT60 in P&P on the buttom, because I happens to have 3 120mm NB PWM Fans and 4 GT2150 with PWM at my disposal.

Originally I was hoping to use a dual D5 setup, but the space runs a bit too tight with SLI, so instead I want to change into MCP35X2 which might fix my problem, another upside is that I might actually be able to fit another 140mm XT45 rad at the back.
*finger cross*


----------



## rpjkw11

Were I to buy a Luxe I would do the same as I've done with my two Primos: I mounted my sole HDD in one of the drive bays and the SSDs behind the mobo and on the "floor" below the HDD cages, which I removed completely. That way incoming airflow is as unrestricted as I can get it. I also use air cooling.


----------



## Screetch82

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blahtibla*
> 
> i5 4670k (4.5Ghz @ 1.25v)
> EVGA 780 Classified (1330/6800 @ 1.25v)
> 
> Temp results:
> 
> CPU Average temp 59 degrees


Hi

i got my 4790k to 4.6Ghz (1.26V) +my 780ti gives me CPU average temp of 55 using AIDA64 stress test
I have my NB PK2 fans as well as the phantek 140mm fans are running at 800 at the moment.

IDK is this reasonable?


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brian-phanteks*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> @brian
> Would you happen to know the connector model number for the Enthoo Primo LED strip light connector?
> 
> Thanks
> 
> 
> 
> @doyll
> Try giving a search for
> 
> 2 Pin Female Fan Connector Housing
> 2 Pin Male Fan Connector Housing
Click to expand...

Thanks Brian!








I thought that was what they were but wasn't sure as I don't have any t pin fans


----------



## Accursed Entity

So exciting, seeing user pictures of their cases arrival! I am a bit worried about the reports of windows getting scratched by the box during shipping though. I hope it is resolved by Oct-Nov.


----------



## shilka

I dont know if anyone saw my question or not so i am going to ask again
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> I am buying a Luxe soon and i was wondering i dont need both HDD´s cages so i am going to take one of the two out, but which one should i take out the top or bottom one? if i take the top one out that would let more air go stright on to the video cards so to me that makes more sense.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> I dont know if anyone saw my question or not so i am going to ask again


That is the way I would do it mate not only due to improved air flow but also because somehow it would feel more sturdy with the hds not fighting gravity secured by a thumbscrew.... Also, if you have room in the 5.25 drive bays you might as well use those to put your HDs and get rid of all the cages (for example with something like this: http://www.frozencpu.com/products/3040/noi-05/FrozenCPU_HDD_Noise_Reduction_System.html?id=D5JEpiG4&mv_pc=332)


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> That is the way I would do it mate not only due to improved air flow but also because somehow it would feel more sturdy with the hds not fighting gravity secured by a thumbscrew.... Also, if you have room in the 5.25 drive bays you might as well use those to put your HDs and get rid of all the cages (for example with something like this: http://www.frozencpu.com/products/3040/noi-05/FrozenCPU_HDD_Noise_Reduction_System.html?id=D5JEpiG4&mv_pc=332)


I need all my 5.25 drive bays and i have 3x HDD so i need one cage, the SSD i am going to mount on the back.


----------



## blahtibla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Screetch82*
> 
> Hi
> i got my 4790k to 4.6Ghz (1.26V) +my 780ti gives me CPU average temp of 55 using AIDA64 stress test
> I have my NB PK2 fans as well as the phantek 140mm fans are running at 800 at the moment.
> 
> IDK is this reasonable?


Without knowing too much about your build, that seems like excellent temps. No need to worry about it


----------



## combat fighter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WHIMington*
> 
> It actually only needs a few days to ship, that's one thing good living near mainland China


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PureBlackFire*
> 
> this type of setup is possible in the Luxe for sure. just remember, you can't do push/pull with the UT60 in the top. here's a pic of the top HDD cage mounted under the ODD bays:


Is that the pump bracket you have on the bottom of the HD cage in the pic as for the rad to lay flat that would not be there surely?

Also I would want to be mounting a D5 pump using the bracket supplied to the top of the HD cage, should be enough room I'm thinking?


----------



## PureBlackFire

that pic is with the pump bracket yes. the review at modding.fr was very detailed.


----------



## WHIMington

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *combat fighter*
> 
> Is that the pump bracket you have on the bottom of the HD cage in the pic as for the rad to lay flat that would not be there surely?
> 
> Also I would want to be mounting a D5 pump using the bracket supplied to the top of the HD cage, should be enough room I'm thinking?


They are removable, so don't worry.


----------



## sticks435

According to the ThinkComputers review, their sample had the protective covering on both sides of the main window. http://www.thinkcomputers.org/phanteks-enthoo-luxe-case-review/4/


----------



## tolis626

Guys, really sorry if this has been answered before, but here goes :

Could I fit a 360 rad at the bottom and still keep the pump mounting location that's in the place of the bottom drive cage? Or would I need to remove the whole base of the HDD cage and subsequently lose that mounting location?

Before someone says "just measure the damn thing" (and you'd be right if you did), I'm currently at my parents' place and don't have my PC with me (Damn, the Enthoo Primo with a system in it is HEAVY), but would like to know this.

Also, and just in case I can really afford a custom loop, I will probably go with a setup similar to JackNaylorPE's, with a 420 up top and a 280 at the bottom. I'm just considering the 360 because a) for some reason 140 series rads aren't easily found here and b) I may have some eLoops sitting around by then, so why not use them (apart from the fact that I prefer having only one kind of fan in my system so that not many sound signatures get mixed)? The whole loop I'm hoping to build will cost over 600€, so cutting a little on costs would be welcome.

Thanks in advance!


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tolis626*
> 
> Guys, really sorry if this has been answered before, but here goes :
> 
> Could I fit a 360 rad at the bottom and still keep the pump mounting location that's in the place of the bottom drive cage? Or would I need to remove the whole base of the HDD cage and subsequently lose that mounting location?
> 
> Before someone says "just measure the damn thing" (and you'd be right if you did), I'm currently at my parents' place and don't have my PC with me (Damn, the Enthoo Primo with a system in it is HEAVY), but would like to know this.
> 
> Also, and just in case I can really afford a custom loop, I will probably go with a setup similar to JackNaylorPE's, with a 420 up top and a 280 at the bottom. I'm just considering the 360 because a) for some reason 140 series rads aren't easily found here and b) I may have some eLoops sitting around by then, so why not use them (apart from the fact that I prefer having only one kind of fan in my system so that not many sound signatures get mixed)? The whole loop I'm hoping to build will cost over 600€, so cutting a little on costs would be welcome.
> 
> Thanks in advance!


Assuming you are talking about the Primo, a 360 fits in the bottom with both HDD cages in place in the most forward position. So, if you want to remove the lower HDD bay to put a pump there instead of the mounting locations for the bracket in the back of the case you can do that with a 360 in the bottom. The case ships with the HDD cages in the most rear position so you would need to pull them both out and move the top and bottom brackets over to the other location towards the front of the case first.


----------



## tolis626

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Assuming you are talking about the Primo, a 360 fits in the bottom with both HDD cages in place in the most forward position. So, if you want to remove the lower HDD bay to put a pump there instead of the mounting locations for the bracket in the back of the case you can do that with a 360 in the bottom. The case ships with the HDD cages in the most rear position so you would need to pull them both out and move the top and bottom brackets over to the other location towards the front of the case first.


Oops, I forgot to mention that. I'm talking about the Primo, you're right.









That's good to hear. I've already moved the HDD cages towards the front when experimenting with the case, but I still wasn't sure a 360 would fit. So it seems I'm good to go in both scenarios. Although I have to admit, it would look sexier with a 280, but who cares?

Thanks man!


----------



## Accursed Entity

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sticks435*
> 
> According to the ThinkComputers review, their sample had the protective covering on both sides of the main window. http://www.thinkcomputers.org/phanteks-enthoo-luxe-case-review/4/


Could it be that Phanteks sends the case like that to reviewers only?


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Accursed Entity*
> 
> Could it be that Phanteks sends the case like that to reviewers only?


I just hope i get mine with no scratches or marks.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tolis626*
> 
> Oops, I forgot to mention that. I'm talking about the Primo, you're right.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's good to hear. I've already moved the HDD cages towards the front when experimenting with the case, but I still wasn't sure a 360 would fit. So it seems I'm good to go in both scenarios. Although I have to admit, it would look sexier with a 280, but who cares?
> 
> Thanks man!


Not really sure why anyone would think it would look sexier with a 280, but everyone is entitled to their own opinion.

Here's a shot I took a while back of the backside of the case showing my 360 monsta with the lower HDD cage in place. With the fitting end of the rad towards the front of the case it is a very tight fit up next to the HDD cage, but it does fit, and with it like that I was able to use one of the downward facing ports to install a drain valve to point towards the right side panel. With it down there it drains every last drop from my loop. It worked out better than perfect imho.


----------



## Strider49

Do any of you know if the ASUS RoG Front Base will fit the Primo with the door closed and if the audio cable provided by ASUS is long enough to reach the Motherboard?


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

I finally purchased the Enthoo Pro, after all of the overwhelmingly positive reviews, it was a no brainer, and the thing is beautiful!

I do think that a case of this magnitude deserves some water cooling, and I have never water cooled except for AIO. I am a novice, and my terminology and understanding of it all are not where it should be, but we all have to start somewhere.

Here are my system specs:
i5-4670k
Cooler Master Seidon 240M
Asus Z97-AR
G.Skill 2400Mhz 10-12-12-31, 1.65v RAM
EVGA GTX 780 SC w/ ACX 3GB
External 2TB HDD
120GB SSD
EVGA SuperNOVA 850 G2

Now, I love my Cooler Master Seidon 240M, I purchased it brand new for $56 and it works amazing for my CPU. I typically run the 240M at 1200rpm on the fans, and 1000rpm on the pump and I idle in the low 20s, as I am typing this now, my hottest core is 26C with a 24C ambient. When playing BF4, the maximum I reach is 51C, but typically in the mid 40s. This is with fans only at 50%!

My problem that I have is with my GPU. The ACX cooling system is an awful design, it blows hot air all around your case and over time, temperatures start to increase, especially my CPU. After 30 minutes, it just becomes a hot box and temperatures rise by 10C. I have excellent cooling in my case, 5x Cougar Vortex PWM 120s, + the 140 that came with the case. It gets so bad that sometimes I decide to just remove the side panel.

In order to combat this, I would like to water cool my GPU, with the possibility to add a 2nd GPU, and maybe a long time down the road include my CPU, but for just right now, a single GPU. What I am thinking right now is, to install two 240mm radiators in the bottom and front of the case. Because I have an external hard drive, I will remove all of the front hard drive cages to really give myself lots of room.

What is the best "design" or flow pattern for this? I am open to all ideas, Reservoir + Pump combos, 5.25 Bay Res + Pump Combos, whatever, I want it to work and look pretty. I would also like to have a bleed outlet for easy maintenance and cleaning. The least amount of crossing the better, and if possible, I will implement angled fittings to give a straight tubing look.

So, this is kind of a "design my loop" kind of post, I'm wondering what would you do if given the flexibility to do this?

Thank you for the replies.


----------



## Accursed Entity

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PureBlackFire*
> 
> I just hope i get mine with no scratches or marks.


When you receive it, can you please report here how well it arrived? I like to think that it's just a small amount of cases that get scratched.


----------



## PureBlackFire

I most certainly will.


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Accursed Entity*
> 
> When you receive it, can you please report here how well it arrived? I like to think that it's just a small amount of cases that get scratched.


My case luckily didn't arrive scratched, although the thin plastic covering on the outside didn't fully cover the windows. The main issue I had is that the PSU shroud was bent inward and the tools box was untied and banging around inside.

Other than that, its a beautiful case.


----------



## Accursed Entity

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> My case luckily didn't arrive scratched, although the thin plastic covering on the outside didn't fully cover the windows. The main issue I had is that the PSU shroud was bent inward and the tools box was untied and banging around inside.
> 
> Other than that, its a beautiful case.


Thanks, that's good to know, they are indeed beautiful cases.


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Accursed Entity*
> 
> Thanks, that's good to know, they are indeed beautiful cases.


Actually... I misspoke. I was looking on the inside of my case with a flashlight while trying to plan out a water cooling loop, and oh my god, the inside of my window is scratched ALL over because the toolbox came loose.


----------



## makn

Hello
I havent recived my Enthoo Primo yet but im thinking about the 8 pin cpu connector and what lenght is enough?
What PSU do you guys have if not running an extension cable or lenght of cable


----------



## tolis626

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Not really sure why anyone would think it would look sexier with a 280, but everyone is entitled to their own opinion.
> 
> Here's a shot I took a while back of the backside of the case showing my 360 monsta with the lower HDD cage in place. With the fitting end of the rad towards the front of the case it is a very tight fit up next to the HDD cage, but it does fit, and with it like that I was able to use one of the downward facing ports to install a drain valve to point towards the right side panel. With it down there it drains every last drop from my loop. It worked out better than perfect imho.


Well, taste is a strange thing... I just like how it looks with bigger fans and the rad not being covered by the HDD cage cover in the front. But that's just me.

Anyway, the drain port was another thing I'd have to figure out if it weren't for you, so thanks for that. Have you installed a valve or a quick disconnect or something? I was thinking either a bleeding valve from Bitspower (the ones that are like a faucet) or a quick disconnect, so that I could just plug a spare piece of tube to it and bleed the system without a drop spilling in the case.


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Accursed Entity*
> 
> Thanks, that's good to know, they are indeed beautiful cases.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Actually... I misspoke. I was looking on the inside of my case with a flashlight while trying to plan out a water cooling loop, and oh my god, the inside of my window is scratched ALL over because the toolbox came loose.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
Click to expand...

things like this make me want to cancel my order. it feels like at least 60% of owners and reviewers of the Pro and Luxe have this issue and it's just stupid already. the accessory box looks like it can fit behind the motherboard tray. maybe that's where they should secure it.


----------



## RnRollie

Indeed, the loose "toolbox" is an issue Phanteks needs to look into.
All my cases which came with an accessory box had it *bolted* down in the 3.5" or a 5.25" cage/slot. Of course, these were all abs or nylon boxes, not cardboard.

Meanwhile, until Phanteks gets sick of having to send replacement windows or if you can t be bothered with the RMA process, a handy tip:

http://www.eplastics.com/Plastic/Plastics_Library/Cleaning-Plexiglass-Acrylic-Sheet
http://www.meguiars.com/en/automotive/products/g12310-plastx-clear-plastic-cleaner-polish/


----------



## Accursed Entity

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> Actually... I misspoke. I was looking on the inside of my case with a flashlight while trying to plan out a water cooling loop, and oh my god, the inside of my window is scratched ALL over because the toolbox came loose.


That... is scary! Phanteks better deal with that by Oct-Nov...


----------



## brian-phanteks

Hello Everyone,
The issue with the toolbox will be taken care of on the newest stock of Enthoo Pro and Luxe cases. The box has been relocated to be secured to the HDD cages which will be a more secure location.

If anyone still has an issue with a scratched window, they can PM me directly.


----------



## Rankre

Hm interesting. Seems I can't get the pwm hub to work properly. With my Noctua A15 plugged directly into the CPU_FAN1 4 pin header, it allows me to adjust the rpm but when its on the first fan slot in the fan hub, even with the 12V Sata connector disconnected and the A15 being the only thing connected to the fan hub (which is then connected to CPU_FAN1 4 pin) it still goes max RPM (1200) on all modes custom or silent in the bios. Main reason I was trying to fix this was my A14s in the front were also going max rpm and those actually made a hum, but I gave up after trying a bunch of things and having no luck and just ended up put my 2 low noise adapters on the 2 front A14 intakes. :[

Edit
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brian-phanteks*
> 
> Hello Everyone,
> The issue with the toolbox will be taken care of on the newest stock of Enthoo Pro and Luxe cases. The box has been relocated to be secured to the HDD cages which will be a more secure location.
> 
> If anyone still has an issue with a scratched window, they can PM me directly.










that is actually great news. I know my window came scratched and I had to email and get a replacement (the long twist tie actually came loose somewhere during the delivery process and the box was rocking around in the case scratching all kinds of acrylic). If its in the drivebay in the back, that should prevent a lot of headaches.


----------



## Accursed Entity

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brian-phanteks*
> 
> Hello Everyone,
> The issue with the toolbox will be taken care of on the newest stock of Enthoo Pro and Luxe cases. The box has been relocated to be secured to the HDD cages which will be a more secure location.
> 
> If anyone still has an issue with a scratched window, they can PM me directly.


Yes! That's good news! That's what I call customer service, thanks Brian.


----------



## WHIMington

Good to hear the problem have been taken care of


----------



## rpjkw11

Has anyone tried the optional dual SSD caddies? If so, are there any heat issues when mounted behind the MOBO? Assuming they'll mount as advertised for the Luxe, I'd like to try that arrangement. I rather like the idea of moving the SSD located on the floor where the drive cages go (both removed on my rig).


----------



## Dorito Bandit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brian-phanteks*
> 
> Hello Everyone,
> The issue with the toolbox will be taken care of on the newest stock of Enthoo Pro and Luxe cases. The box has been relocated to be secured to the HDD cages which will be a more secure location.
> 
> If anyone still has an issue with a scratched window, they can PM me directly.


Glad to hear! Thank you, Brian!

As I mentioned earlier, my Enthoo Pro came with a severely scratched window due to the accessory tool box having came undone during shipping. I contacted Phanteks' customer support about this issue on the same day I received my case. They responded withing 24hrs and I had my replacement window in about 2 weeks. Their customer support was great to me. Hopefully others will have the same experience, too.

Don't let the fear of a scratched window keep you from getting one of these cases, guys, things like this can happen with ANY brand of case. If you do get a bad window, help is available.

Good luck to all!


----------



## Rankre

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rpjkw11*
> 
> Has anyone tried the optional dual SSD caddies? If so, are there any heat issues when mounted behind the MOBO? Assuming they'll mount as advertised for the Luxe, I'd like to try that arrangement. I rather like the idea of moving the SSD located on the floor where the drive cages go (both removed on my rig).


My SSD is mounted on the bracket behind the mobo in my Enthoo Pro. Right now in hwinfo64, its running 34C and the hottest its gotten today while I gamed was 39C.


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

I also had a scratched window because of the loose toolbox. I contacted Phanteks through their support link and also after posting pictures here. Brian contacted me directly and has already sent a replacement window my way. It was less than 10 hours from the time I sent my email to the time I was contacted directly. Top notch customer service!


----------



## WHIMington

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rankre*
> 
> Hm interesting. Seems I can't get the pwm hub to work properly. With my Noctua A15 plugged directly into the CPU_FAN1 4 pin header, it allows me to adjust the rpm but when its on the first fan slot in the fan hub, even with the 12V Sata connector disconnected and the A15 being the only thing connected to the fan hub (which is then connected to CPU_FAN1 4 pin) it still goes max RPM (1200) on all modes custom or silent in the bios. Main reason I was trying to fix this was my A14s in the front were also going max rpm and those actually made a hum, but I gave up after trying a bunch of things and having no luck and just ended up put my 2 low noise adapters on the 2 front A14 intakes. :[


Your problem is clearly on the motherboard, I need your motherboard model to be sure, but most MB on the market these days do not have PWM control on the fan header other then CPU_FAN and CPU_OPT, your problem is exactly what will happen when you plug the fan hub into a non PWM header.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> *Phanteks PWM controlled 3-pin fan hub.
> From Enthoo Pro manual, page 30*
> 
> 18. PWM FAN HUB INSTALLATION
> 
> The PWM hub functions optimally when modulated by a PWM signal from the motherboard, which will all the greatest control range. However, not all 4-pin motherboard connectors implement the PWM signal modulation.
> 
> Connecting the 4-pin to CPU_FAN
> For full PWM functionality, Phanteks' PWM hub requires users to connect the 4-pin connector to the "CPU_Fan" connector of the motherboard, because all motherboard manufacturers implements a PWM signal modulation on this connector. Connect the SATA 12V power to power the PWM hub. Not all motherboards have their CPU_Fan connector set on PWM signal modulation by default. Please consult your motherboard documentation for this matter.
> 
> Connecting the 4-pin to other 4-pin header (besides the CPU_Fan)
> Other 4-pon connectors can be found on modern motherboards besides the "CPU_Fan" connector (e.g. "CPU_Fan2", "CHA_FAn", "OPT_Fan"), however not all motherboard manufacturers implement a true PWM signal modulation onto these connectors. These type of 4-pin connectors modulate the RPM by voltage, which has a smaller control range compared to modulation by true PWM signal.
> 
> The 12v SATA power cable can not be used to power the PWM hub if connecting to these types of 4-pin connectors, due to the interference with the RPM regulation by voltage (resulting in the fans running on full RPM). The PWM hub will draw it's power from the 4-pin connector, which is limited to a total device consuming 30W in total.
> 
> Important Note:
> 1 motherboard connector can only read 1 RPM signal. Therefore, the motherboard will only read the RPM signal from1 device connected to FAN 1. The RPM from all other devices will be regulated according to FAN 1. Y-splitter should not be connected to FAN 1.






And to concentrat the above wall of text:

1.Plug the fan hub 4pin fan header onto a TRUE PWM fan header(e.g. CPU_FAN & CPU_OPT), plug the 12V SATA header to a PSU SATA output

NOTICE:The fan hub requires PWM signal to function at its full capacity.

2.DO NOT plug in both the 4pin fan header and SATA power supply at the same time if the fan header on the motherboard is NOT PWM header. Hub will receive power from the MoBo fan header and control the fan through voltage control.

*CAUTION:*Be aware of the motherboard fan header power limits, damage to motherboard will occur when power consumption go over limit.

Most motherboard fan header is rated 11W total power consumption, but different manufacturers have different specifications, consult manuals or customer support for actual limits.


----------



## Rankre

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WHIMington*
> 
> Your problem is clearly on the motherboard, I need your motherboard model to be sure, but most MB on the market these days do not have PWM control on the fan header other then CPU_FAN and CPU_OPT, your problem is exactly what will happen when you plug the fan hub into a non PWM header.


It is the only 4 pin CPU fan there is, my mobo is Asrock Z97 Extreme4. The CPU_Fan1 has 4 pins and CPU_Fan2 has 3 pins. I thought the Extreme4 did have pwm for CPU_FAN1, but maybe I'm wrong.


----------



## bond32

I never did figure out the issue with my fan hubs/motherboard. Ended out just connecting the fan hubs to the "OPT_FAN" headers and I adjust it to what the bios says is "70%", causes the AP-15's to run around 1400 rpm. If anyone has any ideas to test I'm all ears. Never did get the pwm fans in from sidewindercomputers - heads up don't order from them.

Motherboard is the Asus Maximus VI Extreme. The only thing I have not tried is a reformat, however I'm fairly certain that won't do anything considering if I connect the fan hub to the " CPU_FAN" header, set it to "PWM" control, and restart, even in the bios all the fans will spin at about 95% max speed.


----------



## RnRollie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rankre*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *WHIMington*
> 
> Your problem is clearly on the motherboard, I need your motherboard model to be sure, but most MB on the market these days do not have PWM control on the fan header other then CPU_FAN and CPU_OPT, your problem is exactly what will happen when you plug the fan hub into a non PWM header.
> 
> 
> 
> It is the only 4 pin CPU fan there is, my mobo is Asrock Z97 Extreme4. The CPU_Fan1 has 4 pins and CPU_Fan2 has 3 pins. I thought the Extreme4 did have pwm for CPU_FAN1, but maybe I'm wrong.
Click to expand...

but from what i've read, you've plugged a 4-pin PWM fan into the hub.
iow you are trying to voltage control a PWM fan


----------



## Rankre

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RnRollie*
> 
> but from what i've read, you've plugged a 4-pin PWM fan into the hub.
> iow you are trying to voltage control a PWM fan


That is true, I got my CPU cooler pwm fan plugged into fan slot 1 on my hub. Earlier today I tried connecting one of the front Noctua A14s to slot 1 on the hub and trying to adjust the rpm through the bios but that didn't change anything. I can try again though. I'm starting to think maybe the extreme4 doesn't have pwm support on its mobo fans.










The diagrams they show for their Chasis Fan1 and CPU Fan1 are the same. The manual also doesn't mention anything about pwm fans, but various reviews I've seen have stated the 4 pin CPU fan is pwm, so I assumed. I suppose I can ask Asrock directly. Oh well.


----------



## WHIMington

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rankre*
> 
> That is true, I got my CPU cooler pwm fan plugged into fan slot 1 on my hub. Earlier today I tried connecting one of the front Noctua A14s to slot 1 on the hub and trying to adjust the rpm through the bios but that didn't change anything. I can try again though. I'm starting to think maybe the extreme4 doesn't have pwm support on its mobo fans.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The diagrams they show for their Chasis Fan1 and CPU Fan1 are the same. The manual also doesn't mention anything about pwm fans, but various reviews I've seen have stated the 4 pin CPU fan is pwm, so I assumed. I suppose I can ask Asrock directly. Oh well.


In that case you'd better go with a PWM 4 pin spliter because it is a waste of fan to plug a 4pin pwm fan onto a hub that was designed for 3pin non PWM fans.

Also, I am not familiar with Asrock BIOS, but sometimes you migh accidentally switch off PWM function when changing mode.


----------



## Rankre

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WHIMington*
> 
> In that case you'd better go with a PWM 4 pin spliter because it is a waste of fan to plug a 4pin pwm fan onto a hub that was designed for 3pin non PWM fans.
> 
> Also, I am not familiar with Asrock BIOS, but sometimes you migh accidentally switch off PWM function when changing mode.


I thought I might have done that as well, but when I checked the bios, I couldn't find anything about turning on pwm, also first time using an Asrock mobo. I do have a 4 pin pwm splitter that came with the noctua a15, so I might actually try that. Have the noctua itself connected to the 4 pin on the splitter and the pwm hub connected to the 3 pin on the splitter and the splitter connected to CPU_FAN1.


----------



## WHIMington

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rankre*
> 
> I thought I might have done that as well, but when I checked the bios, I couldn't find anything about turning on pwm, also first time using an Asrock mobo. I do have a 4 pin pwm splitter that came with the noctua a15, so I might actually try that. Have the noctua itself connected to the 4 pin on the splitter and the pwm hub connected to the 3 pin on the splitter and the splitter connected to CPU_FAN1.


Is the spliter both 4 pin size with one of the lead missing the RPM signal line? If so the fan should function normally.

p.s. In the long run I recommend using a swiftech 8way spliter instead.


----------



## RnRollie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rankre*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *WHIMington*
> 
> In that case you'd better go with a PWM 4 pin spliter because it is a waste of fan to plug a 4pin pwm fan onto a hub that was designed for 3pin non PWM fans.
> 
> Also, I am not familiar with Asrock BIOS, but sometimes you migh accidentally switch off PWM function when changing mode.
> 
> 
> 
> I thought I might have done that as well, but when I checked the bios, I couldn't find anything about turning on pwm, also first time using an Asrock mobo. I do have a 4 pin pwm splitter that came with the noctua a15, so I might actually try that. Have the noctua itself connected to the 4 pin on the splitter and the pwm hub connected to the 3 pin on the splitter and the splitter connected to CPU_FAN1.
Click to expand...

If you connect the HUBs PWM 4-wire onto a 3 pin it wont work !

Allmost all of AsRock boards have PWM, especially the top ranges. To set a PWM signat lin BIOS you have to select something like Automatic , Target temp (45°C) & fan level (1 = 30% , 10=100%) on CPU_FAN1

Some AsRocks allow you to do the same for CHA_FAN1 , meaning CHA_FAN1 is PWM also


----------



## WHIMington

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RnRollie*
> 
> If you connect the HUBs PWM 4-wire onto a 3 pin it wont work !
> 
> Allmost all of AsRock boards have PWM, especially the top ranges. To set a PWM signat lin BIOS you have to select something like Automatic , Target temp (45°C) & fan level (1 = 30% , 10=100%) on CPU_FAN1
> 
> Some AsRocks allow you to do the same for CHA_FAN1 , meaning CHA_FAN1 is PWM also


This, from the manual the extreme 4 seems to be a bit different in this respect, they have actual PWM signal at the CHA FAN 1 header.


----------



## Screetch82

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RnRollie*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You have to reach for your inner Laurence Llewelyn-Bowen
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can offset the "gold" of the MB by strategically placing (short) yellow/orange flex led strip.
> Not much, not bright, just a little accent/hue.. subtle does it... like lighting the logo/badge in the small window... or the front fans to get a "golden glow" from behind the fan cover panel...
> 
> You need to get a subdued diffuse "golden" glow somewhere away from the MB -without clashing- to make it pleasing on the eye.
> 
> Maybe bitfenix http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=72_107_1246_836 or maybe some EL wire http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=72_98&products_id=938
> 
> but .. definitely NOT a yellow CCFL in the reservoir... that will NOT look good




Hi

ok so the res tank lights are actually UV but they dont do anything for the pipes.. so I will move them out of the res tank and position them somewhere in case.
However I have bought 2 RGB lights to connect to an aquaeous XT fan controller (which I dont have yet).
So not sure If i should really get it or not. Otherwise I could return those and just buy white lights instead for the tank.
--> really need some advise.. as I have yellow/gold from the Mobo, red from the mobo lights and the RAM and actually the pipes are blue UV ones..

I have also been thinking about getting springs to support the pipes..at least around the bends. What is your take on those? MAybe white springs 

with regards to the multicolored fan splitter cables for the bottom rad .. I was kinda dumb. each fan a 2 black sleeved extention cords. I could have used those and connect them to the splitter cable in the back of the case. So I will correct this and the it will look better.. for free 

I also need to fix the suction end of the pump.


You can see the long bend here. I should just have two 90 degree bends so the pipe that comes from the res tank goes straight in and there is no force on the pipe itself.
Any Ideas?


----------



## lawsonj65

Hey guys! Had a few questions about the Primo... I'm quickly running out of room in my current case (HAF XM) and was planning to upgrade. I finally found Linus's and Dimitry's reviews of the entire Phantek's line and found exactly what I'm looking for









First, I'm sure this has been asked... But I'm thinking of using either the XSPC RX480 or AX480 at top with 120x25mm fans. I'm fairly certain it will fit either (correct me if I'm wrong). However, being a quad rad it will extend into the top most drive bay. I have an Aquaero 5 XT with a waterblock. Is clearance going to be a problem at that end of rad if I keep the Aquaero on the top bay?

Second, I've read so many laments about the front door. But, since I have the Aquaero with an LCD display, is there any way to physically remove the front door? Or has anyone modded it and added an acrylic window?

Lastly, how much space is there between the drive bay panel where the Phanteks logo plate is and the side panel itself?

Thanks!!
Jeff


----------



## Screetch82

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawsonj65*
> 
> First, I'm sure this has been asked... But I'm thinking of using either the XSPC RX480 or AX480 at top with 120x25mm fans. I'm fairly certain it will fit either (correct me if I'm wrong). However, being a quad rad it will extend into the top most drive bay. I have an Aquaero 5 XT with a waterblock. Is clearance going to be a problem at that end of rad if I keep the Aquaero on the top bay?


i dont think this will fit. I have a 420 in the top and just seem to have enough room for a fan controller. a 480, a controller and the connectors for the watercooling is too much depending on you rad thickness.

the RX is 56mm thick and the AX is about 45mm.. mine is 45 as well:


----------



## lawsonj65

Thanks for the reply. The pic is perfect! I can probably move the controller down a bay if needs be. I could probably turn the rad around with the ports toward the back of case and forgo that 4th fan on the bottom. I'm know me... I always want to utilize as much space as possible, filling up all the bays (controller, blu-ray, maybe a 2-bay res) and drive bays (4x3TB RAID 10, 2x1TB RAID 0)


----------



## doyll

Some may find these drawings of how to make an adapter or wire a PWM fan for power directly from PSU and using the motherboard PWM signal to control speed. Using the adapter is an easy way to test a 4-pin fan header and know if header s PWM or not.
Fan speed controlled, header is PWM controlled.
Fan runs full speed only , header is not PWM controlled.


As has been said many times, the Phanteks PWM hub needs a true PWM sign. With the above adapter it is easy to test fan header.


----------



## RnRollie

*PHANTEKS FAN HUB*

Lets try this one more time....
The difference between a simple fan splitter cable, a PWM cable, a PWM hub (Swiftech) & the Phanteks hub and their behavior under different BIOS settings
You will never understand how the hub works if you cant understand a simple fan splitter cable or the difference between Voltage & PWM control

NOTE: please watch how the colours of the wires are different upon its function









Download the PDF file

PhanHub.pdf 144k .pdf file


OR
Click the pic for resize


----------



## MrGrievous

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Screetch82*
> 
> i dont think this will fit. I have a 420 in the top and just seem to have enough room for a fan controller. a 480, a controller and the connectors for the watercooling is too much depending on you rad thickness.
> 
> the RX is 56mm thick and the AX is about 45mm.. mine is 45 as well:


Unless the ports of the rad are switched around then it could fit


----------



## bond32

Those responding about the fan hub, who are you responding to? Everything you guys posted has been said before, multiple times.

My issue has nothing to do with any PWM vs Voltage control issue, but rather the speeds received by the fan hub of the connected fans do not get properly communicated to the motherboard, thus causing the fans to run at around 95% all the time REGARDLESS of if I send a PWM signal to the fan hub or not.

The motherboard I have MUST receive a proper fan speed to adjust the fans, regardless of how they are controlled (PWM or voltage). This could be bypassed by something like Speedfan, however I cannot properly setup speedfan as the program never finds the fan controller chip on the board.


----------



## Toqi

i have Mo-Ra 3 extreme radiator and how to connect tubing Phanteks Enthoo Pro?


----------



## RnRollie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Toqi*
> 
> i have Mo-Ra 3 extreme radiator and how to connect tubing Phanteks Enthoo Pro?


With this
 + 

or this (Koolance)


----------



## makn

I recieved my Enthoo Primo case today, and wow, its amazing!

What do YOU guys think is the best / optimal fan setup? (on air)

The case comes with 2 front, 1 bottom, 1 rear, and 1 top. Is this enough to keep things cool?
Or should i add one more at top? Bottom?
I have removed one of the hdd boxes, so a little less obstacles for one front fan to push air to components

System specs 4770k, 780Ti

Thankfull for any reply


----------



## Voodoo411

I have the Enthoo Pro.
I have a question. I'm planning on getting a EVGA Supernova G2 750W which is 180mm long. I have a 240mm radiator on the bottom with a 160mm long PSU installed. I don't have much space for wires at the bottom. I measured the space, I have like 4mm between the 160mm long PSU and the rad. So 180mm long PSU will fit, but I'm afraid I dont have space for connectors and wires.

Anyone here have a 180mm long PSU and 240 rad installed at bottom? Will they fit?


----------



## RnRollie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *makn*
> 
> I recieved my Enthoo Primo case today, and wow, its amazing!
> 
> What do YOU guys think is the best / optimal fan setup? (on air)
> 
> The case comes with 2 front, 1 bottom, 1 rear, and 1 top. Is this enough to keep things cool?
> Or should i add one more at top? Bottom?
> I have removed one of the hdd boxes, so a little less obstacles for one front fan to push air to components
> 
> System specs 4770k, 780Ti
> 
> Thankfull for any reply


You'll get the good results by adding fans in the bottom... like move the one from the top to the bottom

Best results is by moving those from the bottom to the top and get better fans for the bottom.


----------



## rpjkw11

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *makn*
> 
> I recieved my Enthoo Primo case today, and wow, its amazing!
> 
> What do YOU guys think is the best / optimal fan setup? (on air)
> 
> The case comes with 2 front, 1 bottom, 1 rear, and 1 top. Is this enough to keep things cool?
> Or should i add one more at top? Bottom?
> I have removed one of the hdd boxes, so a little less obstacles for one front fan to push air to components
> 
> System specs 4770k, 780Ti
> 
> Thankfull for any reply


It's enough on my Primos. I kept the stock fan arrangement and mount my single HDD in one of the upper drive bays, right below my ODD. My SSDs are mounted behind the MOBO and on the "floor" where the HDD boxes go. I was then able to completely remove the the HDD boxes giving as unrestricted airflow as I can get. That arrangement keeps my Asus 780Ti cool. I'm using a Noctua NH-D15 cooler so CPU temps are fine, too. I've toyed with the idea of adding another 140MM to the top, but I doubt it would show much improvement, so I'll most likely keep the setup I have now. Both Primos are setup the same; only the CPU, GPU, and CPU cooler (Phanteks TC-14PE) are different.

As an aside, I'm going to get two of the double SSD brackets, even though the Primo lacks the really cool mounting setup on the back of the Luxe MOBO tray. Just wanting to make things a tad neater.


----------



## lawsonj65

I contacted Phanteks about the swing door. They said it can be removed by unscrewing the screws on the hinge on the door itself. I admit it won't be as aesthetically pleasing. But at least I can take the door and mod the door with a window. They referred me to Bill Owen at MNPCTech. They said "due to overwhelming commitments, we no longer offer custom services." But they referred me to some folks called BSMODs. I emailed them and waiting to hear back.

I contacted the folks at Performance-PCs since they are close to me in Florida. They said since they don't carry the Phanteks brand cases they have no idea if they can do it. They asked if it was metal and from what I read, I told them it was brushed aluminum. So naturally they said nope; don't have the equipment and referred me to a CNC shop.


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Voodoo411*
> 
> I have the Enthoo Pro.
> I have a question. I'm planning on getting a EVGA Supernova G2 750W which is 180mm long. I have a 240mm radiator on the bottom with a 160mm long PSU installed. I don't have much space for wires at the bottom. I measured the space, I have like 4mm between the 160mm long PSU and the rad. So 180mm long PSU will fit, but I'm afraid I dont have space for connectors and wires.
> 
> Anyone here have a 180mm long PSU and 240 rad installed at bottom? Will they fit?


I am not sure, that is a good question. Check out Bill Owen's video on the 



 at about minute 15 he talks about floor radiator mounting. I am not sure how many extra connectors the 750 G2 has, but the 850 G2 has a ton, and you would probably be able to get it all to work if you are creative with your wiring and the type of fittings you use.

Hopefully someone else can reply back with a definitive answer because I am curious as well.


----------



## bond32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Voodoo411*
> 
> I have the Enthoo Pro.
> I have a question. I'm planning on getting a EVGA Supernova G2 750W which is 180mm long. I have a 240mm radiator on the bottom with a 160mm long PSU installed. I don't have much space for wires at the bottom. I measured the space, I have like 4mm between the 160mm long PSU and the rad. So 180mm long PSU will fit, but I'm afraid I dont have space for connectors and wires.
> 
> Anyone here have a 180mm long PSU and 240 rad installed at bottom? Will they fit?


I attempted this when I got it, it can be done but the cables will be smashed (not a huge deal). The concerning part is the amount of stress put on the radiator itself.

One thing that I did do was put fans on the BOTTOM of the case, however they obviously don't get good airflow.

I have the EVGA 1300 G2. Should also be noted, I have since received the sleeved cable kit from EVGA, this should allow for just a hair more room. Might try again to stuff a 240 down there sometime... (Phrasing lol)


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

I have a question regarding the Enthoo Pro.

I am going to forgo the full custom loop for now, maybe sometime in the future. In the meantime I am going the G10 route.

The question I have is, I am wondering if a 240mm radiator will fit on the hard drive cage once the PSU shroud is removed?


----------



## WHIMington

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> I have a question regarding the Enthoo Pro.
> 
> I am going to forgo the full custom loop for now, maybe sometime in the future. In the meantime I am going the G10 route.
> 
> The question I have is, I am wondering if a 240mm radiator will fit on the hard drive cage once the PSU shroud is removed?


That.would depend on how long your GFX card and PSU is, but EVEN if there is enough room I would strongly recommend not to do so because that is counterproductive for a rad to mound there due to insufficient air flow.


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WHIMington*
> 
> That.would depend on how long your GFX card and PSU is, but EVEN if there is enough room I would strongly recommend not to do so because that is counterproductive for a rad to mound there due to insufficient air flow.


The PSU isn't the issue once the shroud is removed, there is plenty of room with a 180mm PSU.

My GPU is the EVGA GTX 780 SC w/ ACX Cooler, but I will be installing a G10 to use with the aforementioned 240mm radiator.


----------



## doyll

*Enthoo Pro*
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> I have a question regarding the Enthoo Pro.
> 
> I am going to forgo the full custom loop for now, maybe sometime in the future. In the meantime I am going the G10 route.
> 
> The question I have is, I am wondering if a 240mm radiator will fit on the hard drive cage once the PSU shroud is removed?


A 240 radiator will fit top, bottom or front.
Do you need all the HDD capacity? If not you could remove the bottom 3x HDD cage and put it in the bottom.


----------



## Screetch82

just noticed that in the primo the GPU backplate get very hot as there is very little airflow around the gpu. I had a corsair 500R with a huge sidefan which brought air to the GPU


----------



## MrGrievous

Wow looks like Newegg got the Luxe cases in and both white and black are sold out completely within the first hour and a half of of being released. So now I either wait for a new shipment or order directly from their site with a 20 shipping charged


----------



## PureBlackFire

they aren't sold out. it said that as soon as they went up. the case hasn't reached American soil yet.


----------



## TNortham112

Hi, I am having trouble deciding the layout of my water cooling loop which I will have in an upcoming build in an enthoo luxe.

I will have a 280 rad at the front (Intake), 140 rad at the back (exhaust), and a 360 rad at the top (exhaust)

Parts which need to be cooled:

Processor
Graphics card (might eventually go for two in SLI)
Motherboard (asus maximus vii formula)

So yeah, not sure wether to go: reservoir>pump>gpu>rad>cpu>rad>motherboard>rad>reservoir

Or a completely different layout

I am also not sure wether to mount the reservoir by the front of the case, or at the back.

And, should I go for flexible tubing, or acrylic? is the only difference aesthetics?


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TNortham112*
> 
> Hi, I am having trouble deciding the layout of my water cooling loop which I will have in an upcoming build in an enthoo luxe.
> 
> I will have a 280 rad at the front (Intake), 140 rad at the back (exhaust), and a 360 rad at the top (exhaust)
> 
> Parts which need to be cooled:
> 
> Processor
> Graphics card (might eventually go for two in SLI)
> Motherboard (asus maximus vii formula)
> 
> So yeah, not sure wether to go: reservoir>pump>gpu>rad>cpu>rad>motherboard>rad>reservoir
> 
> Or a completely different layout
> 
> I am also not sure wether to mount the reservoir by the front of the case, or at the back.
> 
> And, should I go for flexible tubing, or acrylic? is the only difference aesthetics?


in stock configuration the case can't support a 280 rad in the front. can't say what's the best layout, as for tubing, acrylic looks better, but it's brittle and could break if the pc moves (like in a car), falls over or if something bangs into it with alot of force.


----------



## TNortham112

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PureBlackFire*
> 
> in stock configuration the case can't support a 280 rad in the front. can't say what's the best layout, as for tubing, acrylic looks better, but it's brittle and could break if the pc moves (like in a car), falls over or if something bangs into it with alot of force.


Hmm... I thought it could, someone in this thread, a couple of hundred pages ago said it could fit a thin 280 rad with fans in the front, or maybe it was a 240


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TNortham112*
> 
> Hmm... I thought it could, someone in this thread, a couple of hundred pages ago said it could fit a thin 280 rad with fans in the front, or maybe it was a 240


either they were talking about the Enthoo *Primo* or they said 240 rad. it does hold two 140 mm fans, so it's likely not completely impossible, but spacing for a 280 rad in the bottom and front isn't there by design.


----------



## WHIMington

You cannot fit a 280 at front, I tried.


----------



## Griffenxz

280 on bottom only but be aware that you need to make sure of the width of the rad.


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

By the way guys, it is possible to mount a 240mm radiator onto the HDD cages of the Enthoo Pro with an EVGA GTX 780 SC w/ ACX. I was able to mount my CM Seidon 240M onto the HDD cages once the PSU bracket and reservoir bracket were removed. Attached to the 240M were the stock fans. The radiator is 27mm and the fans are 25mm. I still had about 3/8 of an inch of space until I hit my GPU


----------



## Mumbles37

Any Luxe preorder-ers in the US have theirs shipped?

Mine hasn't yet.


----------



## MrGrievous

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mumbles37*
> 
> Any Luxe preorder-ers in the US have theirs shipped?
> 
> Mine hasn't yet.


Where did you pre-order from?


----------



## Mumbles37

Phanteksusa. The dates on Amazon and Newegg scared me off.


----------



## doyll

I'm sure as soon as Phanteks USA has them they will be shipping them. When the Enthoo Primo came in they received the container about 3PM and were shipping them out that same afternoon.


----------



## Mumbles37

Sweet, good news. Hope that boat arrives soon!


----------



## Screetch82

did you the news of a couple of container drifting in the atlantic? I think it said Phantek on it


----------



## Mumbles37

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Screetch82*
> 
> did you the news of a couple of container drifting in the atlantic? I think it said Phantek on it


Dream wrecker!


----------



## anteante

I think i´m going for the Enthoo Pro or maybe Luxe but the long wait for it to hit sweden feels bad. This is what i planning to use in my setup. Have everything except gpu-block

2* 3x120 Alphacool ST30 radiators
Alphacool VP655
EK D5 Plexi Top
Alphacool Cape Corp PRO 25LT
EK Supreme Nickel CSQ Plexi
Going for 10/16 tubing

Question?

* Is it possible to use an fan-controller in one of the bays when i got 2 little bigger radiators?

* Got this fans today and using push-method Arctic Cooling F12 PWM 120mm Fan, would i benefit something to switch for Corsair SP120 Quiet instead?

* My radiators should handle my 4790K ( delidded ) and MSI 290 Gaming 4G without any problems right?


----------



## bond32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *anteante*
> 
> I think i´m going for the Enthoo Pro or maybe Luxe but the long wait for it to hit sweden feels bad. This is what i planning to use in my setup. Have everything except gpu-block
> 
> 2* 3x120 Alphacool ST30 radiators
> Alphacool VP655
> EK D5 Plexi Top
> Alphacool Cape Corp PRO 25LT
> EK Supreme Nickel CSQ Plexi
> Going for 10/16 tubing
> 
> Question?
> 
> * Is it possible to use an fan-controller in one of the bays when i got 2 little bigger radiators?
> 
> * Got this fans today and using push-method Arctic Cooling F12 PWM 120mm Fan, would i benefit something to switch for Corsair SP120 Quiet instead?
> 
> * My radiators should handle my 4790K ( delidded ) and MSI 290 Gaming 4G without any problems right?


* Yes this is possible, however it will require modifications to the fan controller. To fit a 360 up front in the Pro, you will need to remove all the front 5.25 bay supports and drive cage hardware. There is enough space just at the top under the USB ports to put a fan controller that doesn't have a long back to it. I was able to fit the NZXT Sentry 2 there by removing the actual controller part from the sentry 2 housing.

* Either fans are fine, but I personally despise the corsair fans as they are terribly noisy compared to other fans and produce poor airflow.

* Your rad space is total overkill for a cpu and one gpu. one 360 would provide more than enough capacity to handle what you're cooling. I personally use a st30 360 in push and a 240 monsta in push pull to cool 3 290x's and a delid 4770k and they are all highly overclocked.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mumbles37*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Screetch82*
> 
> did you the news of a couple of container drifting in the atlantic? I think it said Phantek on it
> 
> 
> 
> Dream wrecker!
Click to expand...

Last report is that container was all white.


----------



## PureBlackFire

Looks like the case might ship today.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Phanteks Enthoo Luxe
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WHIMington*
> 
> You cannot fit a 280 at front, I tried.


Well, it could happen but would require some modding to the case. The port end of the rad would need to extend just a little bit into where the 5.25" drive bays are, so get out your dremel. Bill Owens in his video showed he was able to fit a 280 and even a 420 in the front of the Pro (same case as the Luxe w/ different front/top) as long as you're not too attached to the 5.25" bays and not afraid to do a little modding where needed.


----------



## Seid Dark

How long Phanteks support usually takes to answer your questions? I sent support ticket over a week ago about my new case having several scratches in the front panel, no contact at all from Phanteks. I feel stupid paying so much for a case when the support isn't any different from cheap China product.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seid Dark*
> 
> How long Phanteks support usually takes to answer your questions? I sent support ticket over a week ago about my new case having several scratches in the front panel, no contact at all from Phanteks. I feel stupid paying so much for a case when the support isn't any different from cheap China product.


Phanteks USA support via email has always responded to me in a day or so. There also is a chat feature on their US website that's often available during weekday business hours. Not sure how their support runs in Apokolips though.







If I hadn't heard back in a week I would try contacting them again and in a different way if possible.

http://www.phanteks.com/Contact.html


----------



## PureBlackFire

looks like my case has shipped.


----------



## Mako0312

Whoooooo. Looks like I got my order in on NewEgg. Saved $15 with VCO!

Can't waitttttt.


----------



## Screetch82

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Screetch82*
> 
> just noticed that in the primo the GPU backplate get very hot as there is very little airflow around the gpu. I had a corsair 500R with a huge sidefan which brought air to the GPU


Do you all have the same issue? What is the solution? Get the gpu in the loop? I don't want to mod my 780ti to water since I want to sell it and get a wwatercooled 880


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Enthoo Primo:
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Screetch82*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Screetch82*
> 
> just noticed that in the primo the GPU backplate get very hot as there is very little airflow around the gpu. I had a corsair 500R with a huge sidefan which brought air to the GPU
> 
> 
> 
> Do you all have the same issue? What is the solution? Get the gpu in the loop? I don't want to mod my 780ti to water since I want to sell it and get a wwatercooled 880
Click to expand...

I suspect that the majority of people buying a Primo are watercooling the cpu and gpu(s), and as such a side panel with a window is preferable to one with a mesh fan mounts like a 500R, but with just the five 140mm fans that the Primo comes with, 2 intake fans in the front, 1 intake fan in the bottom, and an exhaust fan in the back and another in the top, there is necessarily a lot of airflow throughout the case enough so that the GPU getting hot really shouldn't be an issue. That's a lot more airflow than most cases come with. If you plan on staying with air cooling you could always add additional fans in the bottom and/or top to make the case like a wind tunnel.



There are also mounting holes for a 120mm fan on the side of the HDD cages so that you could put a fan on the side of the top HDD cage that would blow right on the end of the GPU(s).


----------



## Voodoo411

After using the Enthoo pro for few months, the side panel started to vibrate. There's no locking mechanism to keep the side panel from vibrating. A quick fix is using electrical tape all around the frame .I still think the classic sliding side panel is still the best.


----------



## owcraftsman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *owcraftsman*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Dorito Bandit*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *owcraftsman*
> 
> Dayum maybe there's hope yet. I've been waiting for nearly a year for replacement glass and actually just ordered, this week, some polycarbonate to do it my self.
> 
> 
> 
> Before making your own, take a good hard look at how your window is designed. There is a small groove around the outer edge of it. This is what allows the window to set up flush against the inside of the side panel.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Yes I have looked at it long an hard and realize what you are saying here and have come to the conclusion it will no longer be flush. The good news is it will be clear vs the cloudy 2nd hand look of the original glass that Phanteks has failed to replace and now would appear they have forgotten about getting back to me about after many emails which culminated in them saying they would. I also realize that email came to me more than 6 moths ago but forgetting about it is no excuse. Clearly there customer support is failing at best. I do hope this is a temporary situation and they will improve because there cases rock and it would be a shame if there went under for this reason.
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dorito Bandit*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *owcraftsman*
> 
> Yes I have looked at it long an hard and realize what you are saying here and have come to the conclusion it will no longer be flush. The good news is it will be clear vs the cloudy 2nd hand look of the original glass that Phanteks has failed to replace and now would appear they have forgotten about getting back to me about after many emails which culminated in them saying they would. I also realize that email came to me more than 6 moths ago but forgetting about it is no excuse. Clearly there customer support is failing at best. I do hope this is a temporary situation and they will improve because there cases rock and it would be a shame if there went under for this reason.
> 
> 
> 
> *Phanteks Customer Support*
> 
> Man I hate to see companies with great products/potential have terrible customer service. If your case is still under warranty (5 years) you should be able to get a replacement. Unless you're wanting to replace the window with your own type of glass, I would NOT give up trying to get the issue resolved. When I contacted them about my window being scratched all up they responded within 24hrs. I got my replacement window in about 2 weeks as they were out of stock at the time I contacted them. Hopefully they''ll do the right thing and take care of you. Do keep us updated on this issue. Everyone needs to see the outcome of this.
> 
> Good luck!
Click to expand...

Bought Enthoo Primo November 2013

Since December 2013 I've complained about and requested replacement of the side panel glass here in this thread by Phanteks Customer service email support request and their live chat.

Took until Feb to finally get a response via email that went unresolved until July 2014 thanks to · brian-phanteks who picked up on post 4734 made here in this thread where he PMed me and offered assistance.

TY · brian-phanteks for getting with me and sending replacement glass after these post

And Dorito Bandit consider this your update

Sadly I only received the large glass panel and it too is cloudy like the original despite being hand picked according to Brian.

The shipment came quickly, was well packaged and came scratch free with protective layer on one side.

However the issues still remain. It's cloudy and as like looking through antique glass with ripples and inconsistent clarity. Just take a good look through your glass and remain focused on a specific point on the inside then move you head up and down side to side and you will see what I do, again it's like antique glass minus the bubbles or occasional insect. IMHO it's high time Phanteks considers a different vendor for their glass or at least makes it easier to customize a new panel in there, more on that when I submit the work log for custom glass installation. The case is special in many ways it's a shame the glass isn't special as well. I for one would be willing to pay more so stop cutting corners there PLEASE.

I want a Luxe now but the quality of glass not the customer service is what's keeping me from it.

I've been building custom PCs for 20 years. Many of those cases over the years had side panel glass from multiple vendors like Cooler Master Thermaltake Corsair and Antec. I've never seen such poor quality glass like Phanteks in any of those cases.

I'm in the process now of compiling a work log of sorts with pictures to show the new custom glass installation which is clear vs the smoked original which I will post at a later date.


----------



## Voodoo411

And after 10 times of open and close, the side panel started to vibrate. I planning to replace it completely with a full size plexiglass panel.


----------



## owcraftsman

*Enthoo Primo New Custom Polycarbonate Glass work log*

For those interested in how to replace the side panel glass in your Phanteks case I've compiled a work log here to help you. My goal was to finally have some clear glass but also to be able to reinstall the old glass or even improved better quality replacement glass if ever Phanteks decides fix this problem.

Fair warning my build is not perfect. This isn't a show case and the pictures were taken with my Samsung Galaxy SIII so they're not perfect. The only real hindrance come with the side by side and comparison images where this camera certainly doesn't do the results justice.



I was able to do the mod in about an hour and a half, both glasses with little to no alterations to the original side panel. No drilling screws or nuts and washers here. No geek tech with mad modding (Sp?) skills required either. Almost anyone with average skills can do this and the whole process will take you an hour and a half of your precious time.

A close inspection of how the factory glass is installed reveals a few issues we will need to overcome but nothing to big we can't handle. The side panel is made of steel with a powder coated finish. When the side panel is stamped tabs are provided to secure the glass as is a ridge/lip throughout the entire perimeter to align the glass during assembly. The ridge is perpendicular to the surface of the side panel and is approx. 5/32" tall. The factory glass is grooved and slotted to accept the ridge and clips all while keeping the glass flush with the side panel. The result is a sophisticated fit and finish with no visible signs of mechanical attachment for the exterior view and very welcome improvement over many other case designs. Sadly the glass itself makes an otherwise stellar innovation begging for improvement.

Unfortunately this replacement glass will not be able to finish flush like the original glass without adding additional cost that would make the mod out of reach and simply not worth it. Of course if you have a work shop stocked with a plethora of tools and materials and you have mad skills, plenty of time on your hands, please go for it I'd love to see your results.

To keep it simple and maintain the stealth look of the original glass I decided to use Velcro but the issue of the lip (ridge) and tabs remains an obstacle. To get around this we will need to pad the perimeter edge so the 2 part Velcro (hook side and loop side) on glass and case meet with good contact. Of course both components (hook & loop) have thickness to them but the 5/32" lip would prevent full contact because of its height.



To the issue of the tabs: You will notice when bending them upright already paint is beginning to peel off this is something which is simply not avoidable and the nature of the beast. If you were to bend them back and forth repeatedly I'm certain they would break right off but you'd risk losing additional paint and there no telling how well (straight line) they would break off. Plus you'd lose the ability to replace the original glass at some point if needed. I recommend you bend them as far over as possible using only your hands. I would not use pliers as that would make the tabs weaker and possibly damage the face of the side panel in the process. This method left no visible signs from the outside when all steps were complete.

To the issue of padding the lip: I decided to use double sided foam tape 1/8" thickness to solve the issue. Double sided tape if you aren't familiar is sticky on both sides of the foam. It applies to whatever surface by unrolling it and peeling off the protective cover to reveal the other sticky side. Unfortunately there is no stock product I could find that perfectly meets the physical dimension required for this project so a bit of ingenuity was needed plus I wanted to keep the cost down as much as possible so I bought a 1" x 125" x 1/8" roll of double sided tape from my local home store for 7 bucks.

To make the 1" roll work you will need to cut the roll into thirds using an X-Acto knife to achieve the desired width. Just take your time and eye ball it. Use the knife to work your way around the roll one full circumference around at a time. Make sure you are going through at least one layer completely. Working it any deeper will increase the likely hood of ending up at your local emergency room for stiches so please be careful and take your time. A sharp blade makes all the difference so make sure you use a fresh blade.



With the first circumference cut begin to line the perimeter using you X-Acto knife to cut lengths between clips. Do not go over to of the clips keeping in mind the whole purpose of this exercise is to minimize the effects the lips and the tabs play in making the Velcro have good contact throughout the entire perimeter. Once you have lined the opening it time to remove the protective cover revealing the other sticky side which will receive the hook or loop sides of you Velcro.

Velcro can be quit expensive so again to keep cost down I looked for the cheapest I could find that I could make work. I ended up getting some Velcro from ebay/China 2.5m x 20mm. Less than $5 including shipping and handling but be prepared to wait, From China direct took nearly two week to accept delivery.



The width of the Velcro was just under an inch which is too wide for project so one again some ingenuity was required. I had to simply take scissors and cut the tape right down the middle and it was a perfect fit for the purposes here. 1st I would cut a desired length then cut the width in half and peel and stick. This time however you go over top of foam and the factory tabs. Keep in mind Velcro is a two part system one side is hook and the other is loop

The glass itself I decided on clear 1/8" Polycarbonate glass that comes with a protective layer on both sides. To add to keeping it simple I ordered precut sheets to the size I needed making sure the size would not interfere with the frame of the case which could be an issue when re-attaching the side panel to the case.



Because there is little tolerance and a narrow area of overlap you will need to carefully center align the panels so a line can be traced of the actual opening so the protective coating can be removed ahead of placing the Velcro.



Once you have the piece outlined use the X-Acto knife to score and remove the protective coating. When scoring I was careful to stay on the outside of the line or in other words leaving the traced line so till visible when the protection is removed. This insures that there's a bit of tolerance for placing the glass and that none of it is visible when viewing from the outside in when complete.



Now the glass is ready for hook or loop. Pay particular attention here because hook will not bind to hook and loop will not bind to loop. The only way it will work is if all hook is on case and all loop is on glass or vice versa. You just have to be careful and decide which is which and stick with the plan



At this point you should have padding hook and loop applied in all the appropriate areas. Keep in mind Velcro is quit strong and you do not want to apply it and immediately start attaching and pulling it back apart to hear that cool sound like popping bubble wrap. Key word there is immediately once the Velcro is adhered. Allow a 24 hour period before you begin using it to allow the glue to set/dry for a good bond because it's likely your first attempt at aligning it will need adjustment.

 

Lighted Room View

 

OLD AN NEW SIDE BY SIDE

 

BEFORE AND AFTER



*Quit honestly these picture don't do this justice but trust me it's a huge improvement and I could not be happier with the result.*

*Summary*

*Cost*

Glass $35 If you can cut your on glass then you might be able to save a bit here by buying one sheet large enough for both pieces. I chose the easy way out. If you have ever cut drop ceiling light panels before you know it's problematic at best and they cut the same ways as Lexan or Acrylic.

Velcro $5

Foam tape $7 you probably could save a bit here if you look around I took what was available at my local home store.

*Total Cost* $47 including taxes and shipping

*Time to complete* 1-1/2 hours

*Tools:*

1) Scissors

2) Long Ruler or metal straight edge 20" to 24"

3) X-Acto Knife

http://www.amazon.com/X-Acto-No-1-Precision-Knife/dp/B002FTN3XU/ref=sr_1_66?s=office-products&ie=UTF8&qid=1407522230&sr=1-66

4) Straight Edge at least 20" to 24" long a yard stick or metal ruler would work well.

5) Rubbing Alcohol to keep scissors clean from glue

6) Protected work bench. I use a towel over table to protect the side panel and glass from scratches.

*Materials & Resource links*

Scotch Foam Mounting Double-Sided Tape 1" wide

http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/121328887043?lpid=82

approx. 1/8" thick cut into thirds with X-Acto knife

Polycarbonate pre-cut to size. I bought clear but also available in gray (smoked) but clarity can be off depending on quality. As evidenced by Phanteks originally equipped Primo glass.

Bought Glass here

http://www.tapplastics.com/product/plastics/plastic_sheets_rolls



Velcro 2.5m x 20mm more than enough.

Bought Velcro here.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BLFYQ4Y/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=AL1P58ARR6FWD

Be prepared to wait took 2 ½ weeks came from China direct but cheap and had to be cut in half with scissors.

*Acrylic vs polycarbonate*. I bought 1/8" polycarbonate but both are good choices.

http://www.hydrosight.com/acrylic-vs-polycarbonate-a-quantitative-and-qualitative-comparison/

https://www.ehow.com/about_6689517_polycarbonate-vs_-acrylic-sheets.html

*Steps to complete*


Order materials begin project when they arrive at your door.
Remove factory glass. Both large and small as the same instructions below applies for both windows.
Bend over clips as tightly to the side panel as possible using fingers only (no pliers) just incase you decide to go back to the factory glass you don't want these clip breaking off when moved back.
Center glass in side panel opening and trace it on to the glass protective opening
Cut 1" foam tape into thirds and line entire perimeter between clips. Do not go over top of clips.
Peel off protective cover to expose the sticky layer
Cut the traced line from step 4 with X-Acto knife leaving the line on the outside edge
Remove protective covering outside the traced line
Apply 1 of two parts (hook) Velcro to the exposed glass
Apply 2 of two parts (loop) Velcro over foam tape and clips
Allow both to dry over night as glue will need a bit of curing time
Now apply the glass and attach the side panel to the case and you are done.

That's it enjoy your new glass.

*Game On*



*GL*


----------



## cgull

just to be clear , you replaced the stock plexi/acrylic with glass? "edit just followed your shopping list-- it's plastic not glass"

glass would be more wear resistant but has the drawbacks of being heavier and more brittle.

personally I prefer acrylic (smoked)


----------



## owcraftsman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cgull*
> 
> just to be clear , you replaced the stock plexi/acrylic with glass? "edit just followed your shopping list-- it's plastic not glass"
> 
> glass would be more wear resistant but has the drawbacks of being heavier and more brittle.
> 
> personally I prefer acrylic (smoked)


Yes to be clear glass can be hard natural, plexi, or acrylic. For this project I chose polycarbonate.

I like polycarbonate because it's more chemical resistant than acrylic and scratches can be buffed out but as I said both would do fine. Windex for example has ammonia in it and not recommended as a cleaner for Acrylic which was the deal breaker for me therefore paying a bit more was worth it to me. Polycarbonate scratches easier but stronger impact resistance. Bottom line nothing better than real glass for durability and would be a viable option. No doubt the amount of Velcro used would support the weight and I doubt the additional weight would be all the much more. It's not like these cases are headed to LAN Parties they are largely a static fixture.


----------



## Dorito Bandit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *owcraftsman*
> 
> Bought Enthoo Primo November 2013
> 
> Since December 2013 I've complained about and requested replacement of the side panel glass here in this thread by Phanteks Customer service email support request and their live chat.
> 
> Took until Feb to finally get a response via email that went unresolved until July 2014 thanks to · _brian-phanteks_ who picked up on post 4734 made here in this thread where he PMed me and offered assistance.
> 
> TY · _brian-phanteks_ for getting with me and sending replacement glass after these post
> 
> And Dorito Bandit consider this your update
> 
> Sadly I only received the large glass panel and it too is cloudy like the original despite being hand picked according to Brian.
> 
> The shipment came quickly, was well packaged and came scratch free with protective layer on one side.
> 
> However the issues still remain. It's cloudy and as like looking through antique glass with ripples and inconsistent clarity. Just take a good look through your glass and remain focused on a specific point on the inside then move you head up and down side to side and you will see what I do, again it's like antique glass minus the bubbles or occasional insect. IMHO it's high time Phanteks considers a different vendor for their glass or at least makes it easier to customize a new panel in there, more on that when I submit the work log for custom glass installation. The case is special in many ways it's a shame the glass isn't special as well. I for one would be willing to pay more so stop cutting corners there PLEASE.
> 
> I want a Luxe now but the quality of glass not the customer service is what's keeping me from it.
> 
> I've been building custom PCs for 20 years. Many of those cases over the years had side panel glass from multiple vendors like Cooler Master Thermaltake Corsair and Antec. I've never seen such poor quality glass like Phanteks in any of those cases.
> 
> I'm in the process now of compiling a work log of sorts with pictures to show the new custom glass installation which is clear vs the smoked original which I will post at a later date.


owcraftsman,

Sorry to hear your replacement window is of poor quality. The original window that came with my Enthoo Pro was very very blurry in a few places and, like you said, could really see it when moving your head around looking at it, especially around the right edge. Not pretty at all! My replacement window is much better. Although not the "perfect" clarity of actual glass, it still looks pretty clear to me. I am much happier with my replacement window than the original. I do agree with you, though, it would be nice if they used a higher quality (clearer) material for the windows.

*Also, great job on the custom window, man!







I like that! Glad you're happy with the results!*


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

I am experiencing something strange with my PWM fan hub, or is this normal?

Anyways, here is my setup in regards to the PWM fan hub:

I have an Asus Z87-A, the fan hub PWM connector is plugged into my CPU_FAN header, the only true PWM header on this motherboard, just as the manual instructs us to do. I do not have the SATA power plugged in.

I get a controllable range of 30-100%, which is weird because for a true PWM, I was expecting full 0-100%, at least when I had my CPU/Radiator fans plugged into CPU_FAN I had full 0-100% control. In my Chassis Fan headers, which are "fake" PWM headers I get 30/40-100% control depending on the fan being used. I have yet to try the Fan Hub's 4-pin into a Chassis Fan header, I will try that when I am done typing this.

That is not my complaint though. My complaint is that all of my fans that are connected to the Fan Hub are not staying at the constant speed that I set. They seem to be fluttering at +- 200rpm. I will set the RPM to 1,000 but the fans that are connected to the fan hub seem to be bouncing up and down. It will go up to 1,200 for a second and then back down to 1,000. I can tell this because Fan Xpert II and HWiNFO gives me real time info on the fan speed, and because I can hear the noise when the fan is constantly going up and down in speed. At least they don't go below what I have set, but I really don't like the constant noise of the fans ramping up and down. I run all of my fans through Asus Fan Xpert II, and I prefer RPM mode. I tried Smart Mode, but the problem persists.

The instructions were not crystal clear, so I tried plugging in the SATA Power connector in addition to it already being plugged into the CPU_FAN header, they were both plugged in. When I did that, the controllable range was like 90-100% RPM. So that is a no go, and the same problem continues of the fans going up and down in speed.

Any idea what I can do about this constant up and down in fan speed? I want to attach my AIO's Pump header onto the fan hub, so that I can free up a chassis fan header, but I don't think the constant up-down is good for a pump.

Another question I have is regarding the 140mm included Phanteks Fan. My fan blade piece seems to be jockeying back and forth within its frame, it looks like it is about to fall out and doesn't appear to have the most "even" of spins. I have never used a Phanteks Fan before, is this how they are designed to run? I have a lot of different fans, from different companies and with different prices, I have never seen a fan do this. Could someone please confirm that this is how they are supposed to run? Or do I have a damaged fan from the toolbox coming loose?


----------



## Screetch82

Just installed the aquaeous LT and set the fans to run on the water temp. That is simply awesome. I even have an RGB LED to show the water temp.

When stress testing CPU (4790k @4.6) and GPU (780ti) at the same time for an hour the CPU temp was 57 degrees and the water temp seemed to stay equal 32 degree. After shutting down the stress test the water temp got back to 26 degrees and cpu back to 31 degrees.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *owcraftsman*
> 
> Yes to be clear glass can be hard natural, plexi, or acrylic. For this project I chose polycarbonate.
> 
> I like polycarbonate because it's more chemical resistant than acrylic and scratches can be buffed out but as I said both would do fine. Windex for example has ammonia in it and not recommended as a cleaner for Acrylic which was the deal breaker for me therefore paying a bit more was worth it to me. Polycarbonate scratches easier but stronger impact resistance. Bottom line nothing better than real glass for durability and would be a viable option. No doubt the amount of Velcro used would support the weight and I doubt the additional weight would be all the much more. It's not like these cases are headed to LAN Parties they are largely a static fixture.


Very nice job!








But let me clear up something here about glass. Glass is not the same as acrylic or polycarbonate.

Definition:

Glass
noun
noun: glass; plural noun: glasses

1.a hard, brittle substance, typically transparent or translucent, made by fusing sand with soda and lime and cooling rapidly. It is used to make windows, drinking containers, and other articles.

Quote:


> Sheet grade polycarbonate (aka Lexan or Makrolon) and acrylic sheet (aka Lucite) are two of the most frequently used see-through plastics.
> 
> Each of the two have benefits and drawbacks. Acrylic is shinier and polycarb is stronger. Acrylic is less expensive but easier to crack. Polycarb is more impact resisant but easier to scratch. They are both stronger and lighter than untempered glass; acrylic is 4x to 8x stronger than glass, while polycarb is about 200x stronger.
> 
> A video produced by the motorcycle windshield company National Cycle illustrates some of these differences by showing the effect of various projectiles and weapons on both acrylic and polycarb windshields.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> By the time you finish watching a faceless guy in the video hit the windshields with everything from a slingshot to a baseball bat (and a hammer, shotgun and semi-automatic pistol) you'll get the idea that polycarb bends (and scratches) but doesn't break; and that acrylic stays stiff and shiny but cracks and shatters under impact.
> 
> Another way to show the differences is to list some of the common uses for each of these two materials.
> 
> *Common Uses for Acrylic Sheet:*
> 
> Fish tanks and aquariums
> Animal and reptile enclosures
> Retail product displays
> Storm window linings (interior layer)
> Hockey rink glass
> 
> *Popular Uses for Polycarbonate (Lexan):*
> 
> Race car windows
> Transparent visors for hockey and football players
> Window well covers
> Re-usable drinking bottles
> Computers: Apple, Inc.'s MacBook, iMac, and Mac mini
> Machine guarding glass
> Laminated layers of polycarbonate can be engineered to stop various size bullets


http://www.coloradoplastics.com/blog-0/bid/42625/Polycarbonate-Lexan-vs-Acrylic-Lucite

Polycarbonate costs 35-50% more than acrylic, but I agree it is worth the difference.


----------



## doyll

false
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> I am experiencing something strange with my PWM fan hub, or is this normal?
> 
> Anyways, here is my setup in regards to the PWM fan hub:
> 
> I have an Asus Z87-A, the fan hub PWM connector is plugged into my CPU_FAN header, the only true PWM header on this motherboard, just as the manual instructs us to do. I do not have the SATA power plugged in.
> 
> I get a controllable range of 30-100%, which is weird because for a true PWM, I was expecting full 0-100%, at least when I had my CPU/Radiator fans plugged into CPU_FAN I had full 0-100% control. In my Chassis Fan headers, which are "fake" PWM headers I get 30/40-100% control depending on the fan being used. I have yet to try the Fan Hub's 4-pin into a Chassis Fan header, I will try that when I am done typing this.
> 
> That is not my complaint though. My complaint is that all of my fans that are connected to the Fan Hub are not staying at the constant speed that I set. They seem to be fluttering at +- 200rpm. I will set the RPM to 1,000 but the fans that are connected to the fan hub seem to be bouncing up and down. It will go up to 1,200 for a second and then back down to 1,000. I can tell this because Fan Xpert II and HWiNFO gives me real time info on the fan speed, and because I can hear the noise when the fan is constantly going up and down in speed. At least they don't go below what I have set, but I really don't like the constant noise of the fans ramping up and down. I run all of my fans through Asus Fan Xpert II, and I prefer RPM mode. I tried Smart Mode, but the problem persists.
> 
> The instructions were not crystal clear, so I tried plugging in the SATA Power connector in addition to it already being plugged into the CPU_FAN header, they were both plugged in. When I did that, the controllable range was like 90-100% RPM. So that is a no go, and the same problem continues of the fans going up and down in speed.
> 
> Any idea what I can do about this constant up and down in fan speed? I want to attach my AIO's Pump header onto the fan hub, so that I can free up a chassis fan header, but I don't think the constant up-down is good for a pump.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Another question I have is regarding the 140mm included Phanteks Fan. My fan blade piece seems to be jockeying back and forth within its frame, it looks like it is about to fall out and doesn't appear to have the most "even" of spins. I have never used a Phanteks Fan before, is this how they are designed to run? I have a lot of different fans, from different companies and with different prices, I have never seen a fan do this. Could someone please confirm that this is how they are supposed to run? Or do I have a damaged fan from the toolbox coming loose?



If fan speeds up when you plug in the Sata power than I'm pretty sure you do not have a PWM signal from motherboard fan header pin 4 going to fan hub.
Are you monitoring only 1 fan's rpm on fan hub or more than one?
Smart mode seems to be problematic. I don't think the fan hub changes fan rpm as fast as Fan Xpert needs the changes for "Smart Mode" to function properly.
Have you tried changing the curve temp/speed low or high setting a little to see if that will stop the fan changing speed? That is what I had to do on my system. Seems the temp was increasing slightly causing fan to speed up slightly causing temp to drop slightly, causing fan to slow down, causing heat to rise, causing fan to speed up, etc.


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> false
> 
> If fan speeds up when you plug in the Sata power than I'm pretty sure you do not have a PWM signal from motherboard fan header pin 4 going to fan hub.
> Are you monitoring only 1 fan's rpm on fan hub or more than one?
> Smart mode seems to be problematic. I don't think the fan hub changes fan rpm as fast as Fan Xpert needs the changes for "Smart Mode" to function properly.
> Have you tried changing the curve temp/speed low or high setting a little to see if that will stop the fan changing speed? That is what I had to do on my system. Seems the temp was increasing slightly causing fan to speed up slightly causing temp to drop slightly, causing fan to slow down, causing heat to rise, causing fan to speed up, etc.


I have the PWM cable from the fan hub plugged into my CPU_FAN header. The only true PWM header on my motherboard, just as the manual specifies. When I plug the sata power in, all fans ramp up speed to near 100. Right now, I just have the 4pin fan hub cable plugged into the motherboard and I get range from 30-100%.

It only monitors the speed of the fan in position #1 on the fan hub.

I am not using smart mode, I use RPM mode. I said that I tried smart mode to see if that fixed the problem, it does not. I use RPM mode and the fan speed bounced up and down from my set speed.

None of that applied because I don't use smart mode.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

In ASUS' ROG forums I've seen it said that running another monitoring program like HWiNFO HWMonitor can cause issues with AI Suite / Fan Expert being able to accurately monitor temps and control fan speeds. Might want to ask there about your issues.

edit:
Also, if plugging in the 12v connector makes your fan speeds go 100% then it's not getting a PWM signal. Many mobos CPU_FAN header will automatically switch between PWM and voltage control depending on whether you have a 3 pin or a 4 pin fan plugged into it (fwiw the Z87-A manual on p. viii specifically says "_4-Pin CPU Fan connector supports both 3-Pin (DC Mode) and 4-Pin (PWM Mode) CPU coolers control_").

I'm starting to suspect that however ASUS has implemented that whenever the 12v is connected it causes it to automatically switch from PWM to voltage control, which is something the Phanteks hub needs it not to do in order for it to function properly. I wonder if switching the CPU fan profile in the BIOS from [Standard] to [Manual] wouldn't have an effect on that. In [Manual] it looks like you can set up temp / speed parameters in the BIOS for the CPU_FAN header independent of AI Suite.


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> In ASUS' ROG forums I've seen it said that running another monitoring program like HWiNFO HWMonitor can cause issues with AI Suite / Fan Expert being able to accurately monitor temps and control fan speeds. Might want to ask there about your issues.


I don't own an RoG motherboard, its an Asus Z87-A. I know its still Asus, but.... semantics?

I've never gone off the temperatures given by the motherboard, only from HWiNFO. Fan speed however, it does match up pretty much identical between Fan Xpert II and HWiNFO.

Its not a matter of monitoring these speeds, its that the speed ramps up and down. I am constantly hearing the fans increase..decrease..increase..decrease..increase..decrease..increase..decrease.. You get it. It is only a change of 200rpm, but it gets annoying. I just want it to be constant!


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> I don't own an RoG motherboard, its an Asus Z87-A. I know its still Asus, but.... semantics?
> 
> I've never gone off the temperatures given by the motherboard, only from HWiNFO. Fan speed however, it does match up pretty much identical between Fan Xpert II and HWiNFO.
> 
> Its not a matter of monitoring these speeds, its that the speed ramps up and down. I am constantly hearing the fans increase..decrease..increase..decrease..increase..decrease..increase..decrease.. You get it. It is only a change of 200rpm, but it gets annoying. I just want it to be constant!


The fact I've seen it in ROG forums I would think is inconsequential. Does ASUS have another forum? If so I'm unaware of it. If so maybe ask in that forum. As I understand it (or possibly misunderstand it) the issue between other monitoring programs and AI Suite is caused by multiple programs trying to poll the same components for temps, and Fan Expert needs access to those temps full time to accurately control your fan speeds. It apparently causes AI Suite to go buggy. I've seen quite a few times them recommending to uninstall any/all other such program if you are having any issue with AI Suite to rule it out as the cause. Sounds extreme? Maybe, but I have seen posts back from people confirming that doing that solved their issues.


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> The fact I've seen it in ROG forums I would think is inconsequential. Does ASUS have another forum? If so I'm unaware of it. If so maybe ask in that forum. As I understand it (or possibly misunderstand it) the issue between other monitoring programs and AI Suite is caused by multiple programs trying to poll the same components for temps, and Fan Expert needs access to those temps full time to accurately control your fan speeds. It apparently causes AI Suite to go buggy. I've seen quite a few times them recommending to uninstall any/all other such program if you are having any issue with AI Suite to rule it out as the cause. Sounds extreme? Maybe, but I have seen posts back from people confirming that doing that solved their issues.


When I first set up my fans in the new case, I wasn't using HWiNFO, just Fan Xpert II to monitor the speeds. Even if I close out of HWiNFO, the problem persists. I did a restart, and still it persists. I re-did the Fan Tuning, and it still persists.

Also, can you or anyone else comment on the Phanteks Fan? Does your 140mm jockey back and forth within its enclosure?


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> false *NOT FALSE!! FACT!!*
> 
> If fan speeds up when you plug in the Sata power than I'm pretty sure you do not have a PWM signal from motherboard fan header pin 4 going to fan hub.
> Are you monitoring only 1 fan's rpm on fan hub or more than one?
> Smart mode seems to be problematic. I don't think the fan hub changes fan rpm as fast as Fan Xpert needs the changes for "Smart Mode" to function properly.
> Have you tried changing the curve temp/speed low or high setting a little to see if that will stop the fan changing speed? That is what I had to do on my system. Seems the temp was increasing slightly causing fan to speed up slightly causing temp to drop slightly, causing fan to slow down, causing heat to rise, causing fan to speed up, etc.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have the PWM cable from the fan hub plugged into my CPU_FAN header. The only true PWM header on my motherboard, just as the manual specifies. When I plug the sata power in, all fans ramp up speed to near 100. Right now, I just have the 4pin fan hub cable plugged into the motherboard and I get range from 30-100%.
> 
> It only monitors the speed of the fan in position #1 on the fan hub.
> 
> I am not using smart mode, I use RPM mode. I said that I tried smart mode to see if that fixed the problem, it does not. I use RPM mode and the fan speed bounced up and down from my set speed.
> 
> None of that applied because I don't use smart mode.
Click to expand...

*REMOVE THE "FALSE" YOU ADDED TO MY QUOTE!!!*









What I said is 100% true!!








PWM fans can be speed regulated by both PWM signal and 12volt power OR pulsed 12v from source OR variable voltage.
*If a PWM fan is powered by 12 volt source (like PSU Sata plug) and is receiving a PWM signal on pin 4 from the motherboard the fan will change speeds .. but if there is no PWM signal on pin 4 the fan will run at 100% speed!*

*Unicr0nhunter is telling you the same thing!*


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

The only Phanteks fans I wound up using are the ones in the front of my Primo and I can't say that I noticed any 'jockying back and forth' but I can't say I've ever spent any time looking at them. I don't use my Phanteks hub either though so the issues others keep having with it are really just a curiosity to me. It does seem that the hub included with the Pro has been more troublesome for people than the one that came with the Primo. Comparing images of the one that came with the Pro compared to the one that came with the Primo there looks to be significant differences between them.

Don't suppose you saw my edit to post 5252 and tried seeing if you have better control of the fans using the settings in the BIOS instead of with Fan Expert?


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> *REMOVE THE "FALSE" YOU ADDED TO MY QUOTE!!!*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What I said is 100% true!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> PWM fans can be speed regulated by both PWM signal and 12volt power OR pulsed 12v from source OR variable voltage.
> *If a PWM fan is powered by 12 volt source (like PSU Sata plug) and is receiving a PWM signal on pin 4 from the motherboard the fan will change speeds .. but if there is no PWM signal on pin 4 the fan will run at 100% speed!*
> 
> *Unicr0nhunter is telling you the same thing!*


I did not say false? You said false on the very top of post #5200, before you quoted me. I just quoted you.

Whatever I was experiencing, it was the "pulse." I seem to have found a half-way solution: What I did was remove the 4pin Fan Hub cable from the motherboard, and plugged in the fan that I was using in Fan Hub Spot #1 directly into the motherboard. I ran the Fan Xpert II Fan Tuning. Then I unplugged the fan directly from the motherboard, replugged it back into the fan hub's slot #1, and finally plugged the fan hub back into the motherboard CPU header. NOW, finally when I change the RPM it does it as it should without the pulsing. I still only have control from 30%(637rpm) to 100%(1650rpm), but at least it is not pulsing.

It is pretty obvious that the fan hub on the Enthoo Pro causes more headaches than it helps to solve... At least I finally got mine working to a satisfactory result.

Also, what is your 140mm Phanteks Fan like? Does it jockey back and forth? I'm worried that mine got damaged during shipped when the toolbox came loose.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> I did not say false? That was Unic0rnHunter in post #5200. [...]


No, it wasn't. Post #5200 is Doyll's not mine. I have not quoted Doyll in a post in quite a while. Your post #5201 does look to have a "false" added to a quote by Doyll, whether it was inadvertent or anything meant by it or not I couldn't tell.


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> No, it wasn't. Post #5200 is Doyll's not mine. I have not quoted Doyll in a post in quite a while. Your post #5201 does look to have a "false" added to a quote by Doyll, whether it was inadvertent or anything meant by it or not I couldn't tell.


I didn't look close enough, it was Doyll who posted #5200, and I edited my post where I said your name to correct it to Doyll. He is the one who said false. Look at the very top of post #5200. I did not say false, I just quoted his post. He must have said it inadvertently.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> I didn't look close enough, it was Doyll who posted #5200, and I edited it. He is the one who said false. Look at the very top of post #5200. I did not say false, I just quoted his post. He must have said it inadvertently.


hehe, I see it now. You're right.








Just a mistake that became a misunderstanding.


----------



## bond32

So this happened: 

Unrelated note, I was going to use my nzxt sentry 2, however when I plugged it in a capacitor blew. Sounded literally like a gunshot.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> [...] Unrelated note, I was going to use my nzxt sentry 2, however when I plugged it in a capacitor blew. Sounded literally like a gunshot.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: image


Ouch.

I've had similar happen with 5 different fan controllers from various brands: NZXT, Bitfenix, Sunbeam, etc.

Seems to happen every time I load up half or more of the rated operating amps/watts on a channel that the controller specs say it is supposed to be able to handle, especially if I had multiple channels loaded up that way. Seems they aren't able to properly deal with the extra startup amps for fans which easily double a fan's rated operating amps (or in some cases, like with the Gentle Typhoons for example, the startup amps are more than 4x the fan's operating amp rating). Only high end fan controllers are made to handle the temporary excess load at startup, and unfortunately very few fan manufacturer's list their fan's startup amp specs anywhere.

It took me killing off one controller after another before I finally started to figure out that adding more than 5 watts (0.4 Amps) of fans per channel, especially if done on more than half of the channels, is a recipe for an early demise of a a 10 watt per channel controller, same goes for adding more than 15 watts (1.25 Amps) of fans per channel on a 30 watt per channel controller, and even if you stay below half it still isn't a good idea to load up all the channels that way. If you're going to do that you're going to want o get a high-end Lamptron or an Aquaero, or similar.


----------



## Screetch82

Get an aqueous LT controller and either add the passive cooler or the water cooling block to it. Then you get as many watts out of it as it says.


----------



## Screetch82

Does anyone know the difference between the four 140mm phanteks fan? The led version of the ones that come with the case aren't even listed on their website.

If I have the top rad push air out I need the inner case fan below the rad to be a good high static pressure one.. For the pull fan do I also get a static pressure one or rather ones with good airflow. I mean there is nothing the pull fan can build pressure against.. So my thinking is that a high CFM fan is best to suck as much air out of the rad as possible running at the same speed as the push fan....

Any ideas?


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Screetch82*
> 
> Does anyone know the difference between the four 140mm phanteks fan? The led version of the ones that come with the case aren't even listed on their website.
> 
> If I have the top rad push air out I need the inner case fan below the rad to be a good high static pressure one.. For the pull fan do I also get a static pressure one or rather ones with good airflow. I mean there is nothing the pull fan can build pressure against.. So my thinking is that a high CFM fan is best to suck as much air out of the rad as possible running at the same speed as the push fan....
> 
> Any ideas?


Sorry I am not proficient in the different kind of Phanteks Fans. I have a question about the fan that came with your case though. Does it jockey back and forth within its housing? Is that normal for Phanteks Fans?


----------



## WHIMington

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> I did not say false? You said false on the very top of post #5200, before you quoted me. I just quoted you.
> 
> Whatever I was experiencing, it was the "pulse." I seem to have found a half-way solution: What I did was remove the 4pin Fan Hub cable from the motherboard, and plugged in the fan that I was using in Fan Hub Spot #1 directly into the motherboard. I ran the Fan Xpert II Fan Tuning. Then I unplugged the fan directly from the motherboard, replugged it back into the fan hub's slot #1, and finally plugged the fan hub back into the motherboard CPU header. NOW, finally when I change the RPM it does it as it should without the pulsing. I still only have control from 30%(637rpm) to 100%(1650rpm), but at least it is not pulsing.
> 
> It is pretty obvious that the fan hub on the Enthoo Pro causes more headaches than it helps to solve... At least I finally got mine working to a satisfactory result.
> 
> Also, what is your 140mm Phanteks Fan like? Does it jockey back and forth? I'm worried that mine got damaged during shipped when the toolbox came loose.


I would argue that the problem it is with the Asus boards and Fan Xpert combined, I also have Z87-A as well as a gigabyte board, and the problem existed on Asus only. and a 2 way spliter fix the problem.

Also most voltage controled fan would not work when voltage drops more then 30%


----------



## bond32

I agree, there is some communication failure between the hub and ASUS. I have tested this a lot too... What I ended out doing since I already purchased the second fan hub was connect my two Phanteks fan hubs to the "OPT_FAN 1 & 2" and set them to only run at 70% - this translates to the Scythe AP-15's running at 1300 RPM. Isn't ideal, but it will hold the fan speeds pretty constant. Although probably slightly on the high side, I run 6 on one hub and 4 on the other. Not saying this is a fix by any means, it just works for now.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> I did not say false? You said false on the very top of post #5200, before you quoted me. I just quoted you.
> 
> Whatever I was experiencing, it was the "pulse." I seem to have found a half-way solution: What I did was remove the 4pin Fan Hub cable from the motherboard, and plugged in the fan that I was using in Fan Hub Spot #1 directly into the motherboard. I ran the Fan Xpert II Fan Tuning. Then I unplugged the fan directly from the motherboard, replugged it back into the fan hub's slot #1, and finally plugged the fan hub back into the motherboard CPU header. NOW, finally when I change the RPM it does it as it should without the pulsing. I still only have control from 30%(637rpm) to 100%(1650rpm), but at least it is not pulsing.
> 
> It is pretty obvious that the fan hub on the Enthoo Pro causes more headaches than it helps to solve... At least I finally got mine working to a satisfactory result.
> 
> Also, what is your 140mm Phanteks Fan like? Does it jockey back and forth? I'm worried that mine got damaged during shipped when the toolbox came loose.


I see.








The false was from I don't know what.







Was not related to the post .. must be the gremlins playing or something similar. Sorry. .








What you are experiencing is no PWM signal on pin 4 and either variable voltage on pin 2 or pulsed 12v on pin 2. Either way it's not how PWM fans are designed to be controlled .. and not what the Phanteks PWM fan hub is designed for either. They are designed to use a pulse signal form pin 4. Here is a simple drawing of how to wire a PWM for 12v power from PSU and mohterboard PWM control on pin 4.

With the above adapter and a PWM fan plugged into it you can test motherboard headers to see if they are sending a PWM pulse signal on pin 4 or power a very high powered fan with PSU and not damage the motherboard.


----------



## fateswarm

The forum bugs all the time and puts a 'false' on top. It's annoying. It's probably related to the auto-draft feature.


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> I see.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The false was from I don't know what.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Was not related to the post .. must be the gremlins playing or something similar. Sorry. .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What you are experiencing is no PWM signal on pin 4 and either variable voltage on pin 2 or pulsed 12v on pin 2. Either way it's not how PWM fans are designed to be controlled .. and not what the Phanteks PWM fan hub is designed for either. They are designed to use a pulse signal form pin 4. Here is a simple drawing of how to wire a PWM for 12v power from PSU and mohterboard PWM control on pin 4.
> 
> With the above adapter and a PWM fan plugged into it you can test motherboard headers to see if they are sending a PWM pulse signal on pin 4 or power a very high powered fan with PSU and not damage the motherboard.


I don't understand why I would have to go through the trouble to do all of that when my motherboard states that the CPU_FAN Header is a PWM, and all the other chassis fan headers are 5v...

Regardless, I found a fix to the problem. I plugged the fan that I wanted to be monitored(Fan Hub slot #1) directly into the motherboard. I then ran Fan Xpert II's Fan Tuning to eliminate the middle man which is the Fan Hub. I then plugged everything back to how it should be, Fan Hub's 4-pin into the motherboard, and the fan back into Fan Hub Slot #1. Problem is solved. I guess you can't run the fan tuning while you have the Fan Hub plugged in? IDK.. big big headache with this fan hub.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fateswarm*
> 
> The forum bugs all the time and puts a 'false' on top. It's annoying. It's probably related to the auto-draft feature.


I had never noticed it before. I have no knowledge of putting the "false" in there. Clicked "quote" and wrote my answer.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> I don't understand why I would have to go through the trouble to do all of that when my motherboard states that the CPU_FAN Header is a PWM, and all the other chassis fan headers are 5v...
> 
> Regardless, I found a fix to the problem. I plugged the fan that I wanted to be monitored(Fan Hub slot #1) directly into the motherboard. I then ran Fan Xpert II's Fan Tuning to eliminate the middle man which is the Fan Hub. I then plugged everything back to how it should be, Fan Hub's 4-pin into the motherboard, and the fan back into Fan Hub Slot #1. Problem is solved. I guess you can't run the fan tuning while you have the Fan Hub plugged in? IDK.. big big headache with this fan hub.


Maybe someday you might like to find out what kind of control our motherboard really has instead of listening to the manufacturer who has lied about what the headers are .. and yes, Asus has stated in their advertising and manuals that headers were PWM when in fact they were only use 3 pins and are not true PWM fan headers.
The drawing was not just for you mate. It was directed at everyone so they know how to know if the "PWM" fan headers on their motherboards are in fact "PWM controlled" and not "PWM powered" or "Variable voltage" fan headers.


----------



## fateswarm

Probably also related to quoting only.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Screetch82*
> 
> Does anyone know the difference between the four 140mm phanteks fan? The led version of the ones that come with the case aren't even listed on their website.
> 
> If I have the top rad push air out I need the inner case fan below the rad to be a good high static pressure one.. For the pull fan do I also get a static pressure one or rather ones with good airflow. I mean there is nothing the pull fan can build pressure against.. So my thinking is that a high CFM fan is best to suck as much air out of the rad as possible running at the same speed as the push fan....
> 
> Any ideas?


Code:



Code:


.    .       .       BLACK           BLUE_LED            ORANGE_LED              RED_LED                  WHITE_LED
Model NO :      PH-F140SP_BK    PH-F140SP_BK_BLED       PH-F140SP_BK_OLED       PH-F140SP_BK_RLED       PH-F140SP_BK_WLED
UPC Code :      886523000426    886523000457            886523000594            886523000464            886523000471

On Phanteks website when you look at the PH-F140 specifications it shows the different color led model numbers
http://phanteks.com/PH-F140SP.html


----------



## Screetch82

right, yeah.

so it is better to use SP fans for push and high air flow fan for the pull side or same fans for push pull?


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Screetch82*
> 
> right, yeah.
> 
> so it is better to use SP fans for push and high air flow fan for the pull side or same fans for push pull?


Generally speaking, 'high air flow' fans will not perform as well on a rad in either push or pull as a 'static pressure' fan will. Are we talking about Corsair fans here?

edit:
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Screetch82*
> 
> Does anyone know the difference between the four 140mm phanteks fan? The led version of the ones that come with the case aren't even listed on their website.
> 
> If I have the top rad push air out I need the inner case fan below the rad to be a good high static pressure one.. For the pull fan do I also get a static pressure one or rather ones with good airflow. I mean *there is nothing the pull fan can build pressure against.. So my thinking is that a high CFM fan is best to suck as much air out of the rad as possible running at the same speed as the push fan*....
> 
> Any ideas?


This thinking is what is wrong. A 'static pressure' fan doesn't just do well against a restriction when used in push. They don't "build pressure" like you are thinking. Static pressure fans generally have fat / wide blades that don't so easily let air get pushed backward against their direction of flow when there is a restriction whether that's in push or pull. It doesn't matter whether that restriction is on the intake or the exhaust side of the fan it works the same either way. High air flow' fans generally have more open space between the blades so that they can spin faster and generate more air flow when there is little to no restriction. They're made to be case fans, not to be used on a rad.

Fans generally perform nearly identical on a rad whether they are in push or pull. You don't have to use the same fans top and bottom, but you will be best to use fans on both sides that are known to perform well on a rad.


----------



## Voodoo411

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> I don't understand why I would have to go through the trouble to do all of that when my motherboard states that the CPU_FAN Header is a PWM, and all the other chassis fan headers are 5v...
> 
> Regardless, I found a fix to the problem. I plugged the fan that I wanted to be monitored(Fan Hub slot #1) directly into the motherboard. I then ran Fan Xpert II's Fan Tuning to eliminate the middle man which is the Fan Hub. I then plugged everything back to how it should be, Fan Hub's 4-pin into the motherboard, and the fan back into Fan Hub Slot #1. Problem is solved. I guess you can't run the fan tuning while you have the Fan Hub plugged in? IDK.. big big headache with this fan hub.


Did you try to use speedfan to control the fan hub?
Or maybe you have defected fan hub.


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Voodoo411*
> 
> Did you try to use speedfan to control the fan hub?
> Or maybe you have defected fan hub.


I only tried Fan Xpert II.

It is strange because, on my CM 212 EVO and my CM Seidon 240M, when I had fans plugged directly into the CPU_FAN header, I had full range of control, 0-100%. I used a fan splitter on both of these coolers.


----------



## Voodoo411

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> I only tried Fan Xpert II.
> 
> It is strange because, on my CM 212 EVO and my CM Seidon 240M, when I had fans plugged directly into the CPU_FAN header, I had full range of control, 0-100%. I used a fan splitter on both of these coolers.


With Asus fanxpert, I only can get down to 20% when connect directly. With the fan hub it's 40%. So I switched to use speedfan.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> I only tried Fan Xpert II.
> 
> It is strange because, on my CM 212 EVO and my CM Seidon 240M, when I had fans plugged directly into the CPU_FAN header, I had full range of control, 0-100%. I used a fan splitter on both of these coolers.


Not so strange. Then you were using direct control of your fans and with the Phanteks hub you are now using the PWM signal in from the mobo to control a P channel mosfet that modulates the +12V supply (cuts the power on/off really fast) to the 3-pin fan ports proportionally to the width of the PWM signal pulse to simulate the voltage going up/down. It's a bit of a hack how they did it (it's been tried before apparently), and it's not going to work as well as direct control would nor will it work so well with all fans. Some voltage-controlled fans don't like to be controlled by modulating the current (like a cheap fan controller typically does) and some fan manufacturers recommend against it. For example Nidec says that pwm modulation of 12v current to control fan speed can damage &/or shorten the life of a fan.

Anywho, that's partly why I didn't even try using the Phanteks hub myself, also because I have way too many fans for it I needed to control, and instead am using a good fan controller that automatically controls my fan speeds based on my loop temps.


----------



## PureBlackFire

I will find out in s few days, but can anyone tell me if the Bitspower 250 Res can fit on the mounting location on the rear of the Enthoo Luxe. I know the XSPC Photon are too wide, but this res is 15mm thinner than that one.


----------



## Konig-Wolf

Hello,

Would any owners of the Enthoo Primo be willing to take a a picture of the case with the front panel door removed? I really want to go with an Enthoo Primo, but I have a front-panel device that won't really fit or work with that front panel door in place...I'd like to see what the case looks like with the front panel door removed, if at all possible. Thanks in advance for your help.

This is the front panel device in question, for those curious:

ASUS ROG Front Base


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Konig-Wolf*
> 
> Hello,
> 
> Would any owners of the Enthoo Primo be willing to take a a picture of the case with the front panel door removed? I really want to go with an Enthoo Primo, but I have a front-panel device that won't really fit or work with that front panel door in place...I'd like to see what the case looks like with the front panel door removed, if at all possible. Thanks in advance for your help.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: snip
> 
> 
> 
> This is the front panel device in question, for those curious:
> 
> ASUS ROG Front Base


I'm not going to remove my door for a picture, sorry (perhaps someone else will) but you should be able to get an idea from images already available. IMHO it wouldn't look very good but that's just me. The door will unscrew from the hinges with 4 screws, 2 on each hinge going into the door, but the hinges themselves would have to be cut off if you don't want them.





There's ~5mm of space for knobs and such on bay devices to fit behind the door. If you have a knob/button that sticks out more than that you also might be able to take a forstner bit and drill out a hole in the plastic back panel of the door to make a few mm of extra room for it. Best to do something like that with the door removed and preferably using a drill press.

late edit: Looking at it closer, the door itself is ~10mm thick with most of that being plastic with a ~1.3mm sheet of aluminum on the front. It looks like the plastic and the aluminum can be unscrewed from each other and separated which if so that would make it a lot easier to drill a hole just in the plastic - you could use a regular hole saw bit with a larger diameter than your knob - which provided you lined it up right once put back together should gain you another ~8mm or so of clearance for a knob/button.


----------



## Screetch82

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Konig-Wolf*
> 
> Hello,
> 
> Would any owners of the Enthoo Primo be willing to take a a picture of the case with the front panel door removed? I really want to go with an Enthoo Primo, but I have a front-panel device that won't really fit or work with that front panel door in place...I'd like to see what the case looks like with the front panel door removed, if at all possible. Thanks in advance for your help.
> 
> This is the front panel device in question, for those curious:
> 
> ASUS ROG Front Base


You can can actually push your fan controller further back into the case so you can close the door with the knob. ( the drive bay is deeper than a normal dvd drive is..so even that I can move further into the case without causing any issues.. I am sure your fan controller is actually not as thick as a drive..so I dont see a problem


----------



## WHIMington

Come to think of it, I still have 1 test that I didn't test: would the fan hub still work if I jury rig the fan leads so that the mobo reads RPM directly from the fan and totally by pass the hub PCB? I still haven't use a multimeter to test the #3 pin to see if there is any voltage drop between the RPM input and output. If there is any, or if the resistance get unusually high, then the hub is to be blame.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Not so strange. Then you were using direct control of your fans and with the Phanteks hub you are now using the PWM signal in from the mobo to control a P channel mosfet that modulates the +12V supply (cuts the power on/off really fast) to the 3-pin fan ports proportionally to the width of the PWM signal pulse to simulate the voltage going up/down. It's a bit of a hack how they did it (it's been tried before apparently), and it's not going to work as well as direct control would nor will it work so well with all fans. Some voltage-controlled fans don't like to be controlled by modulating the current (like a cheap fan controller typically does) and some fan manufacturers recommend against it. For example Nidec says that pwm modulation of 12v current to control fan speed can damage &/or shorten the life of a fan.
> 
> Anywho, that's partly why I didn't even try using the Phanteks hub myself, also because I have way too many fans for it I needed to control, and instead am using a good fan controller that automatically controls my fan speeds based on my loop temps.


All PWM works under the same principle, the only difference is either do it internally(more efficient) or do it externally(less efficient). In fact most Nidec products already have a built in pwm circuits implemented(Nidec japan also receive industrial orders for the discontinued AP15/25 with extra PWM control)


----------



## RnRollie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> I am experiencing something strange with my PWM fan hub, or is this normal?
> 
> Anyways, here is my setup in regards to the PWM fan hub:
> 
> I have an Asus Z87-A, the fan hub PWM connector is *plugged into my CPU_FAN header*, the only true PWM header on this motherboard, just as the manual instructs us to do. *I do not have the SATA power plugged in*.
> 
> I get a *controllable range of 30-100%, w*hich is weird because for a true PWM, I was expecting full 0-100%, at least when I had my CPU/Radiator fans plugged into CPU_FAN I had full 0-100% control. In my Chassis Fan headers, which are "fake" PWM headers I get 30/40-100% control depending on the fan being used. I have yet to try the Fan Hub's 4-pin into a Chassis Fan header, I will try that when I am done typing this.
> 
> That is not my complaint though. My complaint is that all of my fans that are connected to the Fan Hub are not staying at the constant speed that I set. They seem to b*e fluttering at +- 200rpm*. I will set the RPM to 1,000 but the fans that are connected to the fan hub seem to be bouncing up and down. It will go up to 1,200 for a second and then back down to 1,000. I can tell this because Fan Xpert II and HWiNFO gives me real time info on the fan speed, and because I can hear the noise when the fan is constantly going up and down in speed. At least they don't go below what I have set, but I really don't like the constant noise of the fans ramping up and down. I run all of my fans through Asus Fan Xpert II, and I prefer RPM mode. *I tried Smart Mode,* but the problem persists.
> 
> The instructions were not crystal clear, so I tried plugging in the SATA Power connector in addition to it already being plugged into the CPU_FAN header, they were both plugged in. *When I did that, the controllable range was like 90-100% RPM.* So that is a no go, and the same problem continues of the fans going up and down in speed.
> 
> *Any idea what I can do about this constant up and down in fan speed?* I want to attach my AIO's Pump header onto the fan hub, so that I can free up a chassis fan header, but I don't think the constant up-down is good for a pump.
> 
> Another question I have is regarding the 140mm included Phanteks Fan. My fan blade piece seems to be *jockeying back and forth within its frame,* it looks like it is about to fall out and doesn't appear to have the most "even" of spins. I have never used a Phanteks Fan before, is this how they are designed to run? I have a lot of different fans, from different companies and with different prices, I have never seen a fan do this. Could someone please confirm that this is how they are supposed to run? Or do I have a damaged fan from the toolbox coming loose?


Without the power Molex and IF true PWM header you are running all fans from the MB header... not the best of ideas.

Control 30% -100 %
Yes, that is normal, INTEL says so, Minimum PWM is 30% , otherwise it is considered an error condition (eg stall or no fan present)

Some fluctuation is normal..
Either the system is reacting to changing conditions in the case (eg PSU/GPU fan ramps up)
or by some "rounding errors" in the RPM interpretation
or by insufficient signal/power on the MB header... eg too many fans and/or load exceeds 1/2Amp - this will kill the MB in the long run
or... Fan control applications (eg speed fan FAnXpert) are fighting to wrestle fan control away from ASUS "Smart Fan"

In this case, I blame SmartFan being too smart for its own good and trying to work out min-max/ramp on its own.. tell it to comply with your commands. You dont need any extra fan control software.. either the BIOS handles it or not.

If fans go to 100% when pluggin in the power molex, you are not using PWM mode on the MB header
I you dont use smart mode, but RPM you are Voltage controlling

*Any idea what I can do about this constant up and down in fan speed?*
A capacitor inline to "buffer" to voltage change maybe?
OR you can set the curve point differently iso of <45°C run at 30% , set to <45°C run at 35% or 40%

The fan "wobble" is caused by the "Floating" bearing design. Its "very loose" on the axle. Its a sleeve bearing variant. Which means they should be operated vertically.. or.. as INTAKES when mounted to the roof of the case (and EXHAUST when mounted on the floor).
It "lifts" itself up a bit from the bearing when running. Which means there is an optimal "lift height"... factors like mounting upside down can affect this operation. ... Dont know how much impact on MTBF that has though.
Anyways, since these are Sleeve Bearing variants, the same rules as with other sleeve bearing variant apply... only mount them vertical if you want longlivity.

Fan HUB explained:
http://www.overclock.net/t/1418637/official-case-phanteks-club-enthoo-primo-enthoo-luxe-enthoo-pro-lovers-owners/5100_100#post_22671592


----------



## RnRollie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> So this happened:
> 
> Unrelated note, I was going to use my nzxt sentry 2, however when I plugged it in a capacitor blew. Sounded literally like a gunshot.


were you not warned about the NZXT sentry (& matrix) tendency to do so?


----------



## bond32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RnRollie*
> 
> were you not warned about the NZXT sentry (& matrix) tendency to do so?


Honestly I didn't see any warning, but it's not a big deal. Scared the crap out of me though... Literally sounded like a gunshot. Never seen a capacitor blow before.


----------



## RnRollie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> I only tried Fan Xpert II.
> 
> It is strange because, on my CM 212 EVO and my CM Seidon 240M, when I had fans plugged directly into the CPU_FAN header, I had full range of control, 0-100%. I used a fan splitter on both of these coolers.
> 
> 
> 
> Not so strange. Then you were using direct control of your fans and with the Phanteks hub you are now using the PWM signal in from the mobo to control a P channel mosfet that modulates the +12V supply (cuts the power on/off really fast) to the 3-pin fan ports proportionally to the width of the PWM signal pulse to simulate the voltage going up/down. It's a bit of a hack how they did it (it's been tried before apparently), and it's not going to work as well as direct control would nor will it work so well with all fans. Some voltage-controlled fans don't like to be controlled by modulating the current (like a cheap fan controller typically does) and some fan manufacturers recommend against it. For example Nidec says that pwm modulation of 12v current to control fan speed can damage &/or shorten the life of a fan.
> 
> Anywho, that's partly why I didn't even try using the Phanteks hub myself, also because I have way too many fans for it I needed to control, and instead am using a good fan controller that automatically controls my fan speeds based on my loop temps.
Click to expand...

I assume the phanteks fan hub just uses in a "more elegant" way a cap, a resistor and a transistor. A bit smarter & cleaner as this DIY project http://www.overclock.net/t/1505404/guide-convert-3-pin-fan-to-pwm-56k-warning-courtesy-of-lazzer408/0_100


----------



## RnRollie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *RnRollie*
> 
> were you not warned about the NZXT sentry (& matrix) tendency to do so?
> 
> 
> 
> Honestly I didn't see any warning, but it's not a big deal. Scared the crap out of me though... Literally sounded like a gunshot. Never seen a capacitor blow before.
Click to expand...

I've seen plenty of caps go








The one's to watch out for are the "big ones" in a dodgy (and old) PSU... literally ripped the enclosure apart...
if you're unlucky you can get de*cap*itated.. B-movie style









There have been reports before on the net about the nzxt fan controllers blowing up/melting/being a fire hazard... enough of them for me to remember.. and i go through LOTS of trivia daily


----------



## Accursed Entity

*Enthoo Evolv*

I wonder, if I were to put 2 led fans in the front, it would show a dimmed glow effect through the front panel gaps without modding... I have a lot on my mind with the Evolv.


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RnRollie*
> 
> Without the power Molex and IF true PWM header you are running all fans from the MB header... not the best of ideas.
> 
> Control 30% -100 %
> Yes, that is normal, INTEL says so, Minimum PWM is 30% , otherwise it is considered an error condition (eg stall or no fan present)
> 
> Some fluctuation is normal..
> Either the system is reacting to changing conditions in the case (eg PSU/GPU fan ramps up)
> or by some "rounding errors" in the RPM interpretation
> or by insufficient signal/power on the MB header... eg too many fans and/or load exceeds 1/2Amp - this will kill the MB in the long run
> or... Fan control applications (eg speed fan FAnXpert) are fighting to wrestle fan control away from ASUS "Smart Fan"
> 
> In this case, I blame SmartFan being too smart for its own good and trying to work out min-max/ramp on its own.. tell it to comply with your commands. You dont need any extra fan control software.. either the BIOS handles it or not.
> 
> If fans go to 100% when pluggin in the power molex, you are not using PWM mode on the MB header
> I you dont use smart mode, but RPM you are Voltage controlling
> 
> *Any idea what I can do about this constant up and down in fan speed?*
> A capacitor inline to "buffer" to voltage change maybe?
> OR you can set the curve point differently iso of <45°C run at 30% , set to <45°C run at 35% or 40%
> 
> The fan "wobble" is caused by the "Floating" bearing design. Its "very loose" on the axle. Its a sleeve bearing variant. Which means they should be operated vertically.. or.. as INTAKES when mounted to the roof of the case (and EXHAUST when mounted on the floor).
> It "lifts" itself up a bit from the bearing when running. Which means there is an optimal "lift height"... factors like mounting upside down can affect this operation. ... Dont know how much impact on MTBF that has though.
> Anyways, since these are Sleeve Bearing variants, the same rules as with other sleeve bearing variant apply... only mount them vertical if you want longlivity.
> 
> Fan HUB explained:
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1418637/official-case-phanteks-club-enthoo-primo-enthoo-luxe-enthoo-pro-lovers-owners/5100_100#post_22671592


I would like to start off by saying that I love your signature, the golden rules for fans is the greatest thing I have seen recently.

So, it sounds like since I use RPM control, I am regulating voltage and not PWM? I have tried using the Smart Mode within Fan Xpert II, and the same up/down variation in speed occurs. This is at idle, so there is no fluctuation in temperature or anything. Also, even in Smart Mode, I just tested this, even if I stipulate it to be at 30% when temperature is 25C-45C, the fans are running at close to 80%. Fan Xpert II is the only program I use to control fan speed.

I did kind of fix my problem. I plugged in my main fan directly into the motherboard header, I ran the fan tuning, then I plugged my main fan back into my fan hub, and the fan hub's 4pin connector into the motherboard and I am able to control the speeds without much wobble, it is much less now, +-100 compared to 200 I was experiencing before, much more tolerable and not as noticeable of a ramping up and down of fan speed.

Is it bad for my to be running the fan hub directly from my motherboard without SATA power? If it is, then what setting if any do I need to change within my BIOS to get it to true PWM? Asus Z87-A.

As far as my 140mm Phanteks case fan goes, I do have it vertical, but it is really really loose. So loose that the fan blades clip the edges of the housing, which I know is not normal. I have stopped using the fan altogether because I am afraid that it is going to come loose and damage something. My tool box did come loose during shipping, and scratched up my window and bent my PSU shroud(I was able to straight it out) there is even a big gash in the side of the cardboard box. I am thinking that it might have damaged the fan as well.


----------



## owcraftsman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Konig-Wolf*
> 
> Hello,
> 
> Would any owners of the Enthoo Primo be willing to take a a picture of the case with the front panel door removed? I really want to go with an Enthoo Primo, but I have a front-panel device that won't really fit or work with that front panel door in place...I'd like to see what the case looks like with the front panel door removed, if at all possible. Thanks in advance for your help.
> 
> This is the front panel device in question, for those curious:
> 
> ASUS ROG Front Base
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I think it best to remove the 4 screws from the back of the bezel so the hinges go away without cutting them off as suggested above. Bottom line the door is easily remove and replaced. Anyway here is a couple views w/o front door and the screws mentioned.


----------



## Konig-Wolf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *owcraftsman*
> 
> I think it best to remove the 4 screws from the back of the bezel so the hinges go away without cutting them off as suggested above. Bottom line the door is easily remove and replaced. Anyway here is a couple views w/o front door and the screws mentioned.


Thank you so much for doing this owcraftsman. I think the Enthoo Primo still looks exceptionally good without that front door, and the fact that you can remove the hinges is like icing on the cake. It still looks good and clean even without the door.


----------



## Screetch82

Review of the phantekks 140mm fans here

http://www.overclockersclub.com/reviews/phenteks_f140/


----------



## combat fighter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Screetch82*
> 
> Review of the phantekks 140mm fans here
> 
> http://www.overclockersclub.com/reviews/phenteks_f140/


Are these fans any good for rads?


----------



## TNortham112

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *combat fighter*
> 
> Are these fans any good for rads?


Well, if you read the review, then yes they are, they're compared to noctua fans, and beat them


----------



## owcraftsman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Konig-Wolf*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *owcraftsman*
> 
> I think it best to remove the 4 screws from the back of the bezel so the hinges go away without cutting them off as suggested above. Bottom line the door is easily remove and replaced. Anyway here is a couple views w/o front door and the screws mentioned.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thank you so much for doing this owcraftsman. I think the Enthoo Primo still looks exceptionally good without that front door, and the fact that you can remove the hinges is like icing on the cake. It still looks good and clean even without the door.
Click to expand...

NP my pleasure and TY for the +rep

In fact the hinges are completely removable making the possibilities wonderous.

It wouldn't be that difficult to make your own translucent Lexan door.

Let's say a nice dark smoked glass?


----------



## Konig-Wolf

Hello all,

Another couple of questions for the Enthoo Primo owners. I'd like to set my case up for some heavy duty air-cooling, and just want to investigate all of my options.


Is it possible to install two fans on the side of the case with the hard drive trays installed? I'm not planning on mounting a radiator in this spot, just using the bracket to put another pair of fans in for additional intake airflow.
With two 140mm fans installed at the bottom of the case, is it possible to still mount an 140mm fan on the back of the case where the secondary power supply mount is, just below the expansion slots?
I've seen pictures of users talking about installing fans in the top of the case and using them as intakes. Does this configuration work well with the Enthoo Primo? I'd like to max out the number of fans, and have every part of the case except the rear being intake. Is this advisable?
Thanks in advance for taking time to answer my questions.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WHIMington*
> 
> [...] All PWM works under the same principle, the only difference is either do it internally(more efficient) or do it externally(less efficient). In fact most Nidec products already have a built in pwm circuits implemented(Nidec japan also receive industrial orders for the discontinued AP15/25 with extra PWM control)


There is a big difference between PWM of the 12v current to a voltage controlled device (ie: a 3-pin voltage controlled fan) to simulate the voltage going up/down (like the Phanteks fan hub or a cheap fan controller does) and PWM speed control of a PWM device (ie: a 4-pin PWM fan or pump, etc) that receives a full 12v all the time and has a separate modulated signal that is only there to tell it what speed to run at (like a PWM mobo header does).

http://www.swiftech.com/pwmcontrollers.aspx
Quote:


> There is an excellent reference article written by Dave at overclockers.com that explains how PWM works.
> 
> Excerpt from the article:
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> There are PWM controllers and there are PWM fans, but the way in which PWM is implemented in each differs greatly: a standard PWM controller modulates the 12 V supply line of an "ordinary" 12 VDC motor. Conversely a PWM controller for PWM fans - such as the one featured in this article - doesn't modulate the 12V supply line but instead sends a PWM signal along a different supply line (the magic "fourth wire") to a more advanced 12 VDC motor, leaving the 12 V supply line uninterrupted. Designated PWM fans not only have internal circuitry which differs from that of standard fans, but because they are designed with speed control in mind the motors themselves are usually more advanced (and expensive). So, PWM speed control of a standard fan is indeed very different from PWM speed control of a PWM fan&#8230; *Nidec even goes so far as to say that modulating the main supply voltage is not advisable*:
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Pulse-width modulation of DC operating voltage to modify fan speed [edit: in PWM devices] is not recommended. Transients generated by that approach can irreversibly damage motor commutation and control electronics and dramatically shorten the life of a fan.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
Click to expand...

That's why cheap fan controllers often don't work so well with some fans. You see complaints about them causing fans to click at certain speeds and can sometimes interfere with or damage the rpm signal circuitry and sometimes are blamed for the early death of a fan.

I should probably point out though that most good (read: more expensive) fan controllers also employ PWM to control voltage, as it generates a lot less heat and is more reliable than a rheostat / potentiometer / variable resistor. The difference is good fan controllers re-integrate the PWM pulses into an average DC voltage, they smooth out the current into a nice and flat DC line on a scope so there's no discernible PWM output like there is with cheaper controllers.

edit: Just as an example of what I mean, here's some images Darlene (IT Diva) posted a while back comparing the clean voltage line shown on a scope of a ~$100 Lamptron CW611 compared to the PWM voltage current of a ~$40 Lamptron FC3:

Lamptron CW611:


Lamptron FC3:


----------



## Roxycon

You guys know if it's possible to get an replacement top cover for the EP? want some new projects with my build


----------



## doyll

Good explanation Unicr0nhunter








The problems most peeps have with the Phanteks PWM fan hub are caused by two things:
Lack of knowledge of PWM fans (and Phanteks PWM fan hub) are designed to work.
Lack of accurate information from motherboard manufactures as to what they are calling "PWM headers", "PWM control", "PWM controlled fan headers", etc. They use a very large brush in their lack of accurate definitions for PWM.









Do we have any documented cases of defective Phanteks PWM fan hubs?

Or are they almost entirely motherboards being PWM powered fan headers and not PWM signal fan headers?

I also wonder how many of the complaints about PWM fans "clicking" is a result of same issue .. motherboards using PWM powered fan headers instead of PWM signal fan headers.


----------



## MrGrievous

My Enthoo Luxe is one town over and scheduled to arrive tomorrow evening







Now if only the weather would clear up for at least a day so I can paint my radiator and pump white


----------



## Accursed Entity

For those that have bought the Luxe I expect pictures when you receive it, lots of them!


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Accursed Entity*
> 
> For those that have bought the Luxe I expect pictures when you receive it, lots of them!


I intend to take pics and give my account on the case. should get mine tomorrow or Thursday morning.


----------



## Dorito Bandit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roxycon*
> 
> You guys know if it's possible to get an replacement top cover for the EP? want some new projects with my build


Contact Phanteks support or Brian from Phanteks on here.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrGrievous*
> 
> My Enthoo Luxe is one town over and scheduled to arrive tomorrow evening
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now if only the weather would clear up for at least a day so I can paint my radiator and pump white


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PureBlackFire*
> 
> I intend to take pics and give my account on the case. should get mine tomorrow or Thursday morning.


I know you guys are excited about getting your cases. I was too. Nothing like seeing that big delivery truck pull into your driveway and then seeing that driver walking towards you with that huge case box! I was in my work shop when my Enthoo Pro arrived. It came a day early and luckily I was still at home working on my ATV. You guys may also want to take pictures of your case boxes before opening them.

*Enthoo Pro Case Box*

Here's my baby the day the stork brought her to me. She hadn't even hatched yet.















Here she is starting to hatch!










And she's all hatched!










*Enjoy your cases, guys!*


----------



## MrGrievous

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dorito Bandit*
> 
> *Enthoo Pro Case Box*


They grow up so fast


----------



## rpjkw11

Very small "upgrade" for my Primos: For giggles and grins, I installed double SSD holders in the back of the mobo trays. The only "plus" is it allowed move the SSD that were mounted on the floor. It just looks a tad bit neater than before and my curiosity has been satisfied.


----------



## Accursed Entity

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PureBlackFire*
> 
> I intend to take pics and give my account on the case. should get mine tomorrow or Thursday morning.


Awesome! Rep+

I love unboxing pictures!


----------



## MapRef41N93W

I'm thinking of going with Phanteks Primo aluminum for my x99 build. Are Phanteks cases as good as I have been hearing they are?


----------



## RnRollie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MapRef41N93W*
> 
> I'm thinking of going with Phanteks Primo aluminum for my x99 build. Are Phanteks cases as good as I have been hearing they are?


i didn't know there was an alumin*i*um Primo in the making... anybody picked up on that?


----------



## Rahldrac

What are the extras that you get from buying the Luxe over the Pro?


----------



## owcraftsman

Quote:



> Originally Posted by *Rahldrac*
> 
> What are the extras that you get from buying the Luxe over the Pro?


Luxe is:

Taller and offers greater rad possibilities in top of case

additional lighting features and lighting control

aluminum faceplates

1x additional ssd bracket

2x additional 140mm fans (top and rear)

Depending on version of pro windowed side panel and psu cover may not be included


----------



## MapRef41N93W

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RnRollie*
> 
> i didn't know there was an alumin*i*um Primo in the making... anybody picked up on that?


It's this case right here http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811854001&cm_re=phanteks_primo-_-11-854-001-_-Product


----------



## PureBlackFire

it only has Aluminium panels on the front/top.


----------



## hughythomas

Hi guys,

I have:

1x WD Raptor 3.5" (music disk)
2x SSDs (1 to boot Windows 1 to boot Mac)
1x 2.5" or 3.5" for data disk

Can I still fit all of this inside the Phanteks Enthoo Luxe with a XSPC EX360 in top and an XSPC EX240 in the front?

Many thanks

Tom

P.S Obviously, I will be removing all of the HDD cages for the front radiator, but note that the 2x SSDs can be fastened to the back of the motherboard. What about my other 2x 3.5" drives though?


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hughythomas*
> 
> Hi guys,
> 
> I have:
> 
> 1x WD Raptor 3.5" (music disk)
> 2x SSDs (1 to boot Windows 1 to boot Mac)
> 1x 2.5" or 3.5" for data disk
> 
> Can I still fit all of this inside the Phanteks Enthoo Luxe with a XSPC EX360 in top and an XSPC EX240 in the front?
> 
> Many thanks
> 
> Tom
> 
> P.S Obviously, I will be removing all of the HDD cages for the front radiator, but note that the 2x SSDs can be fastened to the back of the motherboard. What about my other 2x 3.5" drives though?


it's possible if you use some kind of bay adapter for the 3.5" drive in the 5.25" bays. that's what I'm doing . I ordered two of these because I'm removing the HDD cages completely. I have two mechanical drives and an SSD.


----------



## Rahldrac

I'm a bit new to all this watercooling. So I will be going with an all in one. Problem is what model should i chose?

Corsair h100i?
Corsair h105?
Corsair h110?
Coolermaster neptun 280l?

I mean, I have the space, so that's not a problem.
I will probably change the fans on the radiator too.


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rahldrac*
> 
> I'm a bit new to all this watercooling. So I will be going with an all in one. Problem is what model should i chose?
> 
> Corsair h100i?
> Corsair h105?
> Corsair h110?
> Coolermaster neptun 280l?
> 
> I mean, I have the space, so that's not a problem.
> I will probably change the fans on the radiator too.


you don't want to bother with the first two if you don't have to. the Coolermaster is supposed to be the best performing AIO, so that's a good start. The Swiftech H220X is another good solution. it expands into a full loop and comes with some good quality parts. tird option is the NZXT Kraken X61. beyond that, Thermaltake announced a 360 AIO but no price or release date yet.


----------



## Rahldrac

I have heard a lot of positive stuffs about the X61, but sadly it's not sold in my part of EU (or not on the marked yet).

But the H100i seems to be quite good according to anadtech? http://www.anandtech.com/bench/CPUCooling/772


----------



## owcraftsman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rahldrac*
> 
> I'm a bit new to all this watercooling. So I will be going with an all in one. Problem is what model should i chose?
> 
> Corsair h100i?
> Corsair h105?
> Corsair h110?
> Coolermaster neptun 280l?
> 
> I mean, I have the space, so that's not a problem.
> I will probably change the fans on the radiator too.


For noise and top performance the Corsair Hydro H110 is your best bet.

If absolute best performance with high noise is your desire then CM Nepton 280L.

It's only slightly better but quit a bit louder at high fan speed (12v)

Anyway give this article a read you should find it helpful.


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rahldrac*
> 
> I have heard a lot of positive stuffs about the X61, but sadly it's not sold in my part of EU (or not on the marked yet).
> 
> But the H100i seems to be quite good according to anadtech? http://www.anandtech.com/bench/CPUCooling/772


I own an H100I for nearly two years now. as far as noise and performance level, it is the worst in the class of 240 AIO coolers since it's release date. it's usually the lowest priced and Corsair has excellent customer support, so these things may be easily looked over. I'm just not gonna sugar coat it, almost everything else performs better and with less noise. the SP120L fans that come with the "i" series AIO coolers are loud. they spin up faster than regular SP120 fans and the motor makes a distinct noise as well.


----------



## Rahldrac

Yeah, read through this: http://www.anandtech.com/show/7738/closed-loop-aio-liquid-coolers
And it seems like the H110 is, as you guys say, the best choice.

Is there anything to gain from changing the fans? Same performance with less noise maybe?
Phanteks F140HP for example? (Why on earth do they all have 120mm holes? Shame, those nice red fans).


----------



## Mako0312

My Luxe will be here Friday. Can't wait!


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rahldrac*
> 
> I'm a bit new to all this watercooling. So I will be going with an all in one. Problem is what model should i chose?
> 
> Corsair h100i?
> Corsair h105?
> Corsair h110?
> Coolermaster neptun 280l?
> 
> I mean, I have the space, so that's not a problem.
> I will probably change the fans on the radiator too.


Right now there is a sale going on for the Cooler Master Seidon 240M for only $60 after rebate! I own this cooler personally and it is fantastic. The mounting was a breeze, unlike the Corsair units, which have a problem with mounting and making proper contact, sometimes washers are needed, it is just a hassle.

You can even use promo code: *VCO* (cannot be combined with the $5 off) to get an additional 10% off, bringing this total down to $56.

Check out some reviews, Anandtech, 



, FrostyTech, Guru3D it is an amazing, amazing cooler especially for only $60. I own the Enthoo Pro, and it easily fits on the top, and you could even mount it on the hard drive cages.

I run an i5-4670k - 4.5Ghz @ 1.2v. I have the stock fans at 1200rpm(50%) and the pump at 1250rpm. That is my "Gaming" preset, and it is extremely quiet. At 800rpm it is silent. At higher RPMs, it does get loud though. Particularly 1600rpm and above, it goes all the way up to 2450rpm.

During BF4 on a 64 player map, my temperature maxes out at 50C. I do have some Gelid GC Extreme Thermal Paste($10). With the stock cooler master thermal paste, I was still getting an amazing 53C max with those settings. At idle, I am at an amazing 24-26C. While typing this, the hottest core is 27C. Stock fans at 800rpm and pump at 1250rpm. I live in Florida, and during the summer I have the A/C on at all times, so ambient is a cool 24C.


----------



## Rahldrac

Good plan, but I live in the EU, so it's kinda hard for me to get access to that deal : )

Is it easy to "force" control the fans? Or make custom curve on the fans? I guess you have not changed the fans?


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rahldrac*
> 
> Good plan, but I live in the EU, so it's kinda hard for me to get access to that deal : )
> 
> Is it easy to "force" control the fans? Or make custom curve on the fans? I guess you have not changed the fans?


You control the fan and pump speed through your motherboard. You can create a fan curve, or set the RPM to constant.


----------



## Rahldrac

Sounds really nice.
Why not go for the Nepton 280m btw? Bigger is better? (except for the price).
The 280 also has holes for 120mm holes it says? So then I can use the Phanteks 140?


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rahldrac*
> 
> Sounds really nice.
> Why not go for the Nepton 280m btw? Bigger is better? (except for the price).
> The 280 also has holes for 120mm holes it says? So then I can use the Phanteks 140?


I bought the Seidon 240M because of the price, I paid $56, which is half the price of other 240mm's, so that is why I purchased this specific model. Since you live in EU, you will have to find the one that fits your needs. I recommend the H220X. I don't know much about the Nepton, so you will have to do your own research.


----------



## hughythomas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PureBlackFire*
> 
> it's possible if you use some kind of bay adapter for the 3.5" drive in the 5.25" bays. that's what I'm doing . I ordered two of these because I'm removing the HDD cages completely. I have two mechanical drives and an SSD.


Thanks for the reply mate, this is exactly what I was thinking - cheers for confirming.

I guess my only concern with going this route specifically is that I wouldn't want the barbs/tubing interfering with the bay(s)...unless of course, Phantels considered this already and the clearance at the roof is sufficient enough to enable a 360 radiator AND populate all of the 5.25 bays?


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hughythomas*
> 
> Thanks for the reply mate, this is exactly what I was thinking - cheers for confirming.
> 
> I guess my only concern with going this route specifically is that I wouldn't want the barbs/tubing interfering with the bay(s)...unless of course, Phantels considered this already and the clearance at the roof is sufficient enough to enable a 360 radiator AND populate all of the 5.25 bays?


no problem. clearance would depend on the thickness of the rad.


----------



## hughythomas

Yer fair point.

The EX360 that I will buy is 35.5mm...along with some fans I guess we are talking about 55.5mm correct?

Could always mount it the other way around (if possible) and have the connectors/tubing coming out from the mobo side I guess?


----------



## Rahldrac

Just spoke with Phanteks about the fans in the Luxe case. According to them it's the Phanteks F140SP. And according to this: http://Phanteks F140HP]http://www.silentpcreview.com/article1345-page7.html[/URL]. The HP (with the same specs as the SP when it comes to noise. Is on pair with the noctua fans?!

So when it comes to noise, you really can not improve on the case fans?


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rahldrac*
> 
> Just spoke with Phanteks about the fans in the Luxe case. According to them it's the Phanteks F140SP. And according to this: http://Phanteks F140HP]http://www.silentpcreview.com/article1345-page7.html[/URL]. The HP (with the same specs as the SP when it comes to noise. Is on pair with the noctua fans?!
> 
> So when it comes to noise, you really can not improve on the case fans?


this has been known for a while. as for noise, one common thing i hear is that the 200mm fan is pretty loud. I'm a few hours from finding out. well, more like 12.5 hours.


----------



## grim.

I just finished my build in the Phanteks Enthoo Pro and I have to say I'm really impressed with the case. It's my second water cooled build and my first trying acrylic but the case has been a pleasure to work withm but everyone in this thread already knows that I guess.

I thought I'd just post up in here because I couldn't find much info when i was looking for build threads with this case. I just wanted to water cool the cpu for now so went with an Alphacool NexXxos ST30 360mm rad at the top, and a 120mm rad on the exhaust too as I was struggling to hit 5ghz on my 8350 on my old 240mm rad and there's plenty of space to play with. I couldn't get away with a bigger radiator at the top with my motherboard but I suspect you could get a 45 mm radiator depending on your motherboard.

The only thing I will say is reservoir placement wasn't brilliant. The supplied bracket is useless if you're going to use a half decent graphics card as it won't clear. I ended up drilling a couple of holes and mounting the res right up against the side panel. Pump placement wasn't too difficult but I ended up making a little acrylic mount for it as the Phanteks pump mount wasn't available in the UK yet.

I also changed the fans because the supplied fans were quite loud after a bit of testing. I ended up changing the front intakes for two Noiseblocker Eloops at 1350rpm, and kept all the exhaust fans on the rads as the Eloop 800 rpm's because the choice of radiator let me use low rpm fans quite effectively.

I've only had the new build together for about 2 hours but I'm getting idle cpu temps of between 14 and 18 degrees in a 23 degree room, and on a prime 95 stress test for 45 minutes I hit a max of 51 degrees, running a modest overclock of 4.6ghz on an 8350. Hoping to push the overclock more on this build as the last one only had a 240mm rad and the temps hit 60 degrees at 4.6ghz on prime 95 so i backed off. Compared to my old case which was a Corsair 550d I have to say it's a definite improvement on airflow and temps, as well as noise due to the greater choice of fan on the intake.

Anyway here's a couple of pics, I might do a build thread at some point but I haven't got a decent camera anymore so it's phone pics only from tonight.

Pump mounting on the bottom hd tray bracket,


The pipework, sorry about the murky water but I used ice dragon nano on a test build to see if it was worth the money and it wasn't. No temp drops at all and it's a nightmare to clean out of your blocks and rads.






Hoping to get another radiator in the front and watercool the 290x lightning in the next couple of months. I didn't do it just yet as the cooler on the card is so good I felt bad ripping it straight off.


----------



## Accursed Entity

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *grim.*
> 
> -snip-


Can you take a picture of the front of the case if you can please? Most builds I've seen leave the 200mm fan, but yours have 2 NBs, so I'd like to see how those white fans look through the front grill.


----------



## MrGrievous

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *grim.*
> 
> I just finished my build in the Phanteks Enthoo Pro and I have to say I'm really impressed with the case. It's my second water cooled build and my first trying acrylic but the case has been a pleasure to work withm but everyone in this thread already knows that I guess.
> 
> I thought I'd just post up in here because I couldn't find much info when i was looking for build threads with this case. I just wanted to water cool the cpu for now so went with an Alphacool NexXxos ST30 360mm rad at the top, and a 120mm rad on the exhaust too as I was struggling to hit 5ghz on my 8350 on my old 240mm rad and there's plenty of space to play with. I couldn't get away with a bigger radiator at the top with my motherboard but I suspect you could get a 45 mm radiator depending on your motherboard.
> 
> The only thing I will say is reservoir placement wasn't brilliant. The supplied bracket is useless if you're going to use a half decent graphics card as it won't clear. I ended up drilling a couple of holes and mounting the res right up against the side panel. Pump placement wasn't too difficult but I ended up making a little acrylic mount for it as the Phanteks pump mount wasn't available in the UK yet.
> 
> I also changed the fans because the supplied fans were quite loud after a bit of testing. I ended up changing the front intakes for two Noiseblocker Eloops at 1350rpm, and kept all the exhaust fans on the rads as the Eloop 800 rpm's because the choice of radiator let me use low rpm fans quite effectively.
> 
> I've only had the new build together for about 2 hours but I'm getting idle cpu temps of between 14 and 18 degrees in a 23 degree room, and on a prime 95 stress test for 45 minutes I hit a max of 51 degrees, running a modest overclock of 4.6ghz on an 8350. Hoping to push the overclock more on this build as the last one only had a 240mm rad and the temps hit 60 degrees at 4.6ghz on prime 95 so i backed off. Compared to my old case which was a Corsair 550d I have to say it's a definite improvement on airflow and temps, as well as noise due to the greater choice of fan on the intake.
> 
> Anyway here's a couple of pics, I might do a build thread at some point but I haven't got a decent camera anymore so it's phone pics only from tonight.
> 
> Pump mounting on the bottom hd tray bracket,
> 
> 
> The pipework, sorry about the murky water but I used ice dragon nano on a test build to see if it was worth the money and it wasn't. No temp drops at all and it's a nightmare to clean out of your blocks and rads.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hoping to get another radiator in the front and watercool the 290x lightning in the next couple of months. I didn't do it just yet as the cooler on the card is so good I felt bad ripping it straight off.






That is amazing









On another note ask and you shall receive. It has arrived!










I bought 2 additional fans as well for my 420mm rad




The box in mine was still held in place with a very long twist tie











From my brief exploration I am very satisfied with the case. The finish feels excelant and I will pleasantly enjoy my build progress tomorrow of the case


----------



## Dorito Bandit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrGrievous*
> 
> On another note ask and you shall receive. It has arrived!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I bought 2 additional fans as well for my 420mm rad
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The box in mine was still held in place with a very long twist tie
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> From my brief exploration I am very satisfied with the case. The finish feels excelant and I will pleasantly enjoy my build progress tomorrow of the case


Awesome, bro! She's a beauty, indeed.









Was the accessory box secured into place? Also, were your windows free of scratches?

Enjoy your case and can't wait to see the finished build.


----------



## MrGrievous

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dorito Bandit*
> 
> Awesome, bro! She's a beauty, indeed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Was the accessory box secured into place? Also, were your windows free of scratches?
> 
> Enjoy your case and can't wait to see the finished build.


Thanks







and yes the accesory box stayed in place during transit with a really long twist tie, the window still only had the one side protected but it is scratch free but I'm not entirely sure if I'm crazy over the smoked window, will have to wait and see with everything installed. I can say though that the window seems to be of higher quality than found on the Pro as I don't see any imperfections as I move my head around, idk maybe its just me not noticing yet will have to see if PureBlackFire's is also a higher grade piece of plastic


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *grim.*
> 
> I just finished my build in the Phanteks Enthoo Pro and I have to say I'm really impressed with the case. It's my second water cooled build and my first trying acrylic but the case has been a pleasure to work withm but everyone in this thread already knows that I guess.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Snip
> 
> 
> 
> I thought I'd just post up in here because I couldn't find much info when i was looking for build threads with this case. I just wanted to water cool the cpu for now so went with an Alphacool NexXxos ST30 360mm rad at the top, and a 120mm rad on the exhaust too as I was struggling to hit 5ghz on my 8350 on my old 240mm rad and there's plenty of space to play with. I couldn't get away with a bigger radiator at the top with my motherboard but I suspect you could get a 45 mm radiator depending on your motherboard.
> 
> The only thing I will say is reservoir placement wasn't brilliant. The supplied bracket is useless if you're going to use a half decent graphics card as it won't clear. I ended up drilling a couple of holes and mounting the res right up against the side panel. Pump placement wasn't too difficult but I ended up making a little acrylic mount for it as the Phanteks pump mount wasn't available in the UK yet.
> 
> I also changed the fans because the supplied fans were quite loud after a bit of testing. I ended up changing the front intakes for two Noiseblocker Eloops at 1350rpm, and kept all the exhaust fans on the rads as the Eloop 800 rpm's because the choice of radiator let me use low rpm fans quite effectively.
> 
> I've only had the new build together for about 2 hours but I'm getting idle cpu temps of between 14 and 18 degrees in a 23 degree room, and on a prime 95 stress test for 45 minutes I hit a max of 51 degrees, running a modest overclock of 4.6ghz on an 8350. Hoping to push the overclock more on this build as the last one only had a 240mm rad and the temps hit 60 degrees at 4.6ghz on prime 95 so i backed off. Compared to my old case which was a Corsair 550d I have to say it's a definite improvement on airflow and temps, as well as noise due to the greater choice of fan on the intake.
> 
> Anyway here's a couple of pics, I might do a build thread at some point but I haven't got a decent camera anymore so it's phone pics only from tonight.
> 
> Pump mounting on the bottom hd tray bracket,
> 
> 
> The pipework, sorry about the murky water but I used ice dragon nano on a test build to see if it was worth the money and it wasn't. No temp drops at all and it's a nightmare to clean out of your blocks and rads.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Snip
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hoping to get another radiator in the front and watercool the 290x lightning in the next couple of months. I didn't do it just yet as the cooler on the card is so good I felt bad ripping it straight off.


Luv how your acrylic turned out. Looks great!


----------



## Accursed Entity

That is so beautiful @MrGrievous thanks for sharing! Rep+


----------



## jovkniemozna

hi guys, first... this is my firts post (yeaaahh......)

i been following this thread about 3 months i think, i read a lot about the enthoo pro and primo (i'm from chile.. so the shipping its EXPENSIVE!)

i bougth about 2 months my enthoo pro (cost 310usd app with taxes and shipping)... but isn't a obstacule... so...

continue with this little things (all from amazon and newegg, on chile i only can buy the power cord







)

my little orange (that's is the name







)

phanteks enthoo pro
i7 4770k stock cooler (yep, i know it...)
32gb (8x4) corsair platinum 2400mhz
samsung 840 250gb + 3tb NAS wd (i don't know where install it







)
SLI evga 780ti classy with backplate and evga sli bridge
asus sabertooth z97 mark 1
antec hps 1000 80plus platinum

and the modding...in process

full side window (acrilic... still in process of modding)
cougar vortex orange (x3)
mdpc-x sleeving (i bought a lot of colors







)
swiftech apogee HD black
primochill rigid tube
primochill ghost black (riggid tubing fittings)
a lot of orange leds for modding (power button, vga leds and memory ram leds)

first assembly





im gonna change the colors of the vga leds


power button modded!


and i have this guy... i'm going to put on the acrilic


i wanna put a low perfil rad like xspc triple 120 and a reservoir/pump like this (but i don't know wich fittings will fit on my watercolling... help ?







) and the 780's waterblocks i don't know wich buy it...



pd: sorry a lot for my bad english... but i don't like to use $h1t translators









any could help me with the pump/reservoir and the rad position? (could i install it in front?)

greeeeetingS!"


----------



## Dorito Bandit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jovkniemozna*
> 
> hi guys, first... this is my firts post (yeaaahh......)
> 
> i been following this thread about 3 months i think, i read a lot about the enthoo pro and primo (i'm from chile.. so the shipping its EXPENSIVE!)
> 
> i bougth about 2 months my enthoo pro (cost 310usd app with taxes and shipping)... but isn't a obstacule... so...
> 
> continue with this little things (all from amazon and newegg, on chile i only can buy the power cord
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )
> 
> my little orange (that's is the name
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )
> 
> phanteks enthoo pro
> i7 4770k stock cooler (yep, i know it...)
> 32gb (8x4) corsair platinum 2400mhz
> samsung 840 250gb + 3tb NAS wd (i don't know where install it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )
> SLI evga 780ti classy with backplate and evga sli bridge
> asus sabertooth z97 mark 1
> antec hps 1000 80plus platinum
> 
> and the modding...in process
> 
> full side window (acrilic... still in process of modding)
> cougar vortex orange (x3)
> mdpc-x sleeving (i bought a lot of colors
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )
> swiftech apogee HD black
> primochill rigid tube
> primochill ghost black (riggid tubing fittings)
> a lot of orange leds for modding (power button, vga leds and memory ram leds)
> 
> first assembly
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> im gonna change the colors of the vga leds
> 
> 
> power button modded!
> 
> 
> and i have this guy... i'm going to put on the acrilic
> 
> 
> i wanna put a low perfil rad like xspc triple 120 and a reservoir/pump like this (but i don't know wich fittings will fit on my watercolling... help ?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> pd: sorry a lot for my bad english... but i don't like to use $h1t translators
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> any could help me with the pump/reservoir and the rad position? (could i install it in front?)
> 
> greeeeetingS!"


Hello, jovkniemozna! Welcome to this site and to the owner's club! I think you're going to love the case, and those are some nice mods you've done to it.







I can't help you with your question, but there are some very knowledgeable guys around here who will be able to.

Can't wait to see your finished build.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *grim.*
> 
> I just finished my build in the Phanteks Enthoo Pro and I have to say I'm really impressed with the case. It's my second water cooled build and my first trying acrylic but the case has been a pleasure to work withm but everyone in this thread already knows that I guess.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> I thought I'd just post up in here because I couldn't find much info when i was looking for build threads with this case. I just wanted to water cool the cpu for now so went with an Alphacool NexXxos ST30 360mm rad at the top, and a 120mm rad on the exhaust too as I was struggling to hit 5ghz on my 8350 on my old 240mm rad and there's plenty of space to play with. I couldn't get away with a bigger radiator at the top with my motherboard but I suspect you could get a 45 mm radiator depending on your motherboard.
> 
> The only thing I will say is reservoir placement wasn't brilliant. The supplied bracket is useless if you're going to use a half decent graphics card as it won't clear. I ended up drilling a couple of holes and mounting the res right up against the side panel. Pump placement wasn't too difficult but I ended up making a little acrylic mount for it as the Phanteks pump mount wasn't available in the UK yet.
> 
> I also changed the fans because the supplied fans were quite loud after a bit of testing. I ended up changing the front intakes for two Noiseblocker Eloops at 1350rpm, and kept all the exhaust fans on the rads as the Eloop 800 rpm's because the choice of radiator let me use low rpm fans quite effectively.
> 
> I've only had the new build together for about 2 hours but I'm getting idle cpu temps of between 14 and 18 degrees in a 23 degree room, and on a prime 95 stress test for 45 minutes I hit a max of 51 degrees, running a modest overclock of 4.6ghz on an 8350. Hoping to push the overclock more on this build as the last one only had a 240mm rad and the temps hit 60 degrees at 4.6ghz on prime 95 so i backed off. Compared to my old case which was a Corsair 550d I have to say it's a definite improvement on airflow and temps, as well as noise due to the greater choice of fan on the intake.
> 
> Anyway here's a couple of pics, I might do a build thread at some point but I haven't got a decent camera anymore so it's phone pics only from tonight.
> 
> Pump mounting on the bottom hd tray bracket,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The pipework, sorry about the murky water but I used ice dragon nano on a test build to see if it was worth the money and it wasn't. No temp drops at all and it's a nightmare to clean out of your blocks and rads.
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hoping to get another radiator in the front and watercool the 290x lightning in the next couple of months. I didn't do it just yet as the cooler on the card is so good I felt bad ripping it straight off.


This has to be the best acrylic tubing job I've seen.








Every bend and line is perfect!


----------



## grim.

Thanks a lot. I am very particular and took my time measuring out each line and working out a sensible route. I wanted to get each line to bend at the same point and keep the lines as straight and uniform as possible. I'll try and get some decent pictures with a better camera because I'm really pleased with how it came out. My friend said it reminds him of the old windows 95 screensaver 3D pipes and now I can't stop seeing that everytime I look at it.


----------



## rpjkw11

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrGrievous*
> 
> 
> That is amazing
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On another note ask and you shall receive. It has arrived!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I bought 2 additional fans as well for my 420mm rad
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The box in mine was still held in place with a very long twist tie
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> From my brief exploration I am very satisfied with the case. The finish feels excelant and I will pleasantly enjoy my build progress tomorrow of the case


WOW! The white Luxe looks awesome! I like it more then my white Primo. All of the Phanteks cases just seem to look so good in white. I can't help but wonder if they were designed to be white; dumb line of thinking, but they really do look so much better in white than black. I've toyed with the idea of selling my black Primo and buying a white Luxe and your unboxing pics are making that a more serious consideration. Thanks for posting!


----------



## PureBlackFire

got it this morning. just took some pics out of the box and next to my H440.


http://imgur.com/j1Hdb


glad to see the accessory box was secured in the 5.25" bay. the window panel is even and nicely tinted. no cloudy spots. it does have a tiny ding on the outside though, which is impossible to photograph. gonna move my parts over and give impressions on the case later.


----------



## cgull

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *grim.*
> 
> Thanks a lot. I am very particular and took my time measuring out each line and working out a sensible route. I wanted to get each line to bend at the same point and keep the lines as straight and uniform as possible. I'll try and get some decent pictures with a better camera because I'm really pleased with how it came out. My friend said it reminds him of the old windows 95 screensaver 3D pipes and now I can't stop seeing that everytime I look at it.


now I've got it too.. nice pipes


----------



## TallGray

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rahldrac*
> 
> I'm a bit new to all this watercooling. So I will be going with an all in one. Problem is what model should i chose?
> 
> Corsair h100i?
> Corsair h105?
> Corsair h110?
> Coolermaster neptun 280l?
> 
> I mean, I have the space, so that's not a problem.
> I will probably change the fans on the radiator too.


I looked at all those options a million times and ended up going with the H220-X from swiftech. All the latest reviews have it as the best dual 120mm AIO on the market. The best thing about it is that you can expand the loop to add more blocks and radiators when you feel like expanding. I have mine installed in my Primo, expanded to the GPU and a RX480 V3 rad. Its very very quiet and works perfectly. Look up the reviews!


----------



## grim.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Accursed Entity*
> 
> Can you take a picture of the front of the case if you can please? Most builds I've seen leave the 200mm fan, but yours have 2 NBs, so I'd like to see how those white fans look through the front grill.


Here you go, still just a picture using my phone so it's pretty awful. But you get the idea, my phanteks 200m fan was white anyway, but you can barely see either the phanteks fan or my nb's through the front grill.

http://s16.photobucket.com/user/grimeh/media/frontfans_zps2e590bc0.jpg.html

Also another quick shot of the pipework line over the cpu block

http://s16.photobucket.com/user/grimeh/media/Pipework_zps19254111.jpg.html

And my secret weapons to accurate tubing








http://s16.photobucket.com/user/grimeh/media/secretweapons_zps53bc5a76.jpg.html


----------



## Accursed Entity

I wish Phanteks releases the Evolv soon, so I can see the reviews and decide between the Evolv and the Luxe/Pro.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PureBlackFire*
> 
> got it this morning. just took some pics out of the box and next to my H440.
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/j1Hdb


Awesome, thanks for sharing!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *grim.*
> 
> Here you go, still just a picture using my phone so it's pretty awful. But you get the idea, my phanteks 200m fan was white anyway, but you can barely see either the phanteks fan or my nb's through the front grill.


Thank you so much! Also, that is one gorgeous pipework!


----------



## rpjkw11

grim, that is an absolutely stunning job! I can't remember seeing another rig so strikingly beautiful. Should you ever try to top that build, I want to see the results because I don't think it's can be done.

Thanks for sharing.


----------



## PureBlackFire

okay, moved my parts over to the Luxe. went smooth. I still haven't finished my motherboard heatsinks yet. the case is not without issue, the fan hub doe's not work at all. neither the 4-pin connector or the sata power supply power to the hub or nay fan connected to it.


----------



## grim.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rpjkw11*
> 
> grim, that is an absolutely stunning job! I can't remember seeing another rig so strikingly beautiful. Should you ever try to top that build, I want to see the results because I don't think it's can be done.
> 
> Thanks for sharing.


Wow, that is praise indeed! I'm very pleased with it, and I'm almost ashamed I put up pictures so prematurely instead of waiting for some nice ones with a decent camera.

Great cases from Phanteks, glad I went for the case I did. I was going to go with another Corsair obsidian series because my last build was in a 650d and I was impressed with it, but I think the quality has dropped off a bit with the Corsair cases now. The quality of this Pro is very good, and the fact you can remove the top so easily makes building in the case a doddle.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PureBlackFire*
> 
> the case is not without issue, the fan hub doe's not work at all. neither the 4-pin connector or the sata power supply power to the hub or nay fan connected to it.


I have the same problem with the Pro I just got. It's not a big deal because I have another fan controller but it would have been nice to rig up a couple of fans to that controller too to save on some cabling.


----------



## makn

My primo front aluminium panel is full of finger prints..how do i clean it without damaging the looks?


----------



## Roxycon

Dry towel and a bit of scrub do work wonders on my primo







amazing how much the finish does stand, my mom, little sister and the vacuum cleaner do bump into it a lot and still not a scratch besides the side window which looks like it's three year's old with all the marks that got into it on a 2 hour drive


----------



## MrGrievous

Finished installing the hardware it was a first lol so I had some odds and ends of course but it wasn't too bad honestly. Still unsure if I like the smoked window or not need to add a led strip in the case to see the full effects also my fanhub seems to work I just hooked it up to a sys fan hub on my mobo since the cpu heat-sink is still being used since I bought the wrong tubing and have to wait on building the loop







Now if only I had a quality camera I could capture the lighting effects. Still need to build the loop, sleeve, and add the lighting







I also hooked up the 4 140sp fans and the one 200 to the fan hub and can succesfully control them using speedfan on just the sys fan header for now without using the sata power cable, will change it to the cpu header once my tubing arrives so I can build the cpu loop. But I also maxed out the fans and honestly the 140s and 200 sounded the same to me


----------



## makn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roxycon*
> 
> Dry towel and a bit of scrub do work wonders on my primo
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> amazing how much the finish does stand, my mom, little sister and the vacuum cleaner do bump into it a lot and still not a scratch besides the side window which looks like it's three year's old with all the marks that got into it on a 2 hour drive


Glad to hear it helped you, but ive tried and it doesnt help, a bit..


----------



## RnRollie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *makn*
> 
> My primo front aluminium panel is full of finger prints..how do i clean it without damaging the looks?


for cleaning: the same as for glasses: microfibre cloth and a huffin' & puffin'
or some isopropyl alcohol

Once clean : look into the automotive sector... like Halfords... or If you want the better stuff: Mothers, Meguiars, Sonex, ... for their Alu products line. There might be something in the household/cleaning section of your local supermarket also.

Some light/thin "wax" (hence automotive) once its clean.. you want to avoid getting fingerprints and specially avoid leaving them on for too long.


----------



## makn

IT Did work with water and microfiber cloth


----------



## Accursed Entity

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrGrievous*


Niiice!







*Drools*


----------



## sticks435

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrGrievous*
> 
> Finished installing the hardware it was a first lol so I had some odds and ends of course but it wasn't too bad honestly. Still unsure if I like the smoked window or not need to add a led strip in the case to see the full effects also my fanhub seems to work I just hooked it up to a sys fan hub on my mobo since the cpu heat-sink is still being used since I bought the wrong tubing and have to wait on building the loop
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now if only I had a quality camera I could capture the lighting effects. Still need to build the loop, sleeve, and add the lighting
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also hooked up the 4 140sp fans and the one 200 to the fan hub and can succesfully control them using speedfan on just the sys fan header for now without using the sata power cable, will change it to the cpu header once my tubing arrives so I can build the cpu loop. But I also maxed out the fans and honestly the 140s and 200 sounded the same to me


Anyway you could see if you can fit the res on the included bracket with the Classy's installed? I'm looking into getting the Luxe and have regular 780 Classy and am trying to decide if my FrozenQ res V1 will fit there.

Thanks!


----------



## makn

I have 2 front fans, 2 fans at bottom, as intakes..and 1 rear, 1 top, both as exhaust.
When gaming the gpu Max temp. Is 75c.
I added an extra top fan, and the temp inceeased with 3c. So i believe i have found the optimal setup (4 fans IN, 2 out)
I Will test and remove the top fan and see what temp im getting with only 1 exhaust


----------



## El_Mayo

Hi guys, going to buy the Enthoo Pro soon. Anyone know what colour the fans are with the white version? I'd like a contrast between case colour and fan colour. I'm leaning towards the white as I had a white Carbide 500R last


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *El_Mayo*
> 
> Hi guys, going to buy the Enthoo Pro soon. Anyone know what colour the fans are with the white version? I'd like a contrast between case colour and fan colour. I'm leaning towards the white as I had a white Carbide 500R last


same colour that come with the black. it looks better on the white IMO. the frame is black and the blade is white. I got the Luxe in white and I quite like it.


----------



## El_Mayo

ahh okay, will probably get it in white. What are your thoughts on the sound level? I think they'll be better (sound, airflow) than the Obsidian 450D which I was going to get until this morning. I also looked at the H440 for a while but apparently the airflow on that is *TERRIBLE*


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *El_Mayo*
> 
> ahh okay, will probably get it in white. What are your thoughts on the sound level? I think they'll be better (sound, airflow) than the Obsidian 450D which I was going to get until this morning. I also looked at the H440 for a while but apparently the airflow on that is *TERRIBLE*


The fans are all silent at full speed except the 200mm front fan. Phanteks sent me some anti vibration pads, but I didn't even install them yet. the 450D is fairly quiet with good airflow from my few experiences with it. I wouldn't go as far as recommending it over the Pro, as for more money, you get a smaller case with less features. On thing about the Pro, the vents on the side of the front panel are completely unnecessary and provide unfiltered entrance for dust. of course, a thin strip of electrical tape along the inside of the front panel solves that problem. The H440 isn't as bad a it's made out to be, at least not for everyone. my gpu temps are the same in my Enthoo Luxe (I have HDD cages removed so nothing is blocking airflow, same way i had in the H440) as it was in the H440. it's cpu temps with top mounted radiators that are considerably worse than other cases in the H440. as someone who used a 500R for nearly 3 years, then an H440 for 3 months, now an Enthoo Luxe, you're on the right track with the pro. it's an upgrade without compromises.


----------



## rpjkw11

I can't speak to the Pro or Luxe, but I refer to my case as 'Hurricane Primo' because of the great airflow using only the stock fan setup. I went an extra step, however, by mounting my sole HDD in a 5.25 bay and SSDs behind the mobo thus allowing me to remove all of the 3.5 drive trays.


----------



## El_Mayo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PureBlackFire*
> 
> The fans are all silent at full speed except the 200mm front fan. Phanteks sent me some anti vibration pads, but I didn't even install them yet. the 450D is fairly quiet with good airflow from my few experiences with it. I wouldn't go as far as recommending it over the Pro, as for more money, you get a smaller case with less features. On thing about the Pro, the vents on the side of the front panel are completely unnecessary and provide unfiltered entrance for dust. of course, a thin strip of electrical tape along the inside of the front panel solves that problem. The H440 isn't as bad a it's made out to be, at least not for everyone. my gpu temps are the same in my Enthoo Luxe (I have HDD cages removed so nothing is blocking airflow, same way i had in the H440) as it was in the H440. it's cpu temps with top mounted radiators that are considerably worse than other cases in the H440. as someone who used a 500R for nearly 3 years, then an H440 for 3 months, now an Enthoo Luxe, you're on the right track with the pro. it's an upgrade without compromises.


Oh you had a 500R as well? we're definitely on the same page as well. I found it very bearable at 5V and 7V, it was my GPU cooler that was loud. I didn't use the side fan for that past 3 years because dust, but I don't remember it adding at all to the noise. Presumably the Enthoo Pro overall is quiter than the 500R (except at full speed) but I never really want to run a 200mm fan at full speed. What features does the 450D have missing from the Pro that you find the most important? to me the PWM hub is a really nice addition


----------



## MrGrievous

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sticks435*
> 
> Anyway you could see if you can fit the res on the included bracket with the Classy's installed? I'm looking into getting the Luxe and have regular 780 Classy and am trying to decide if my FrozenQ res V1 will fit there.
> 
> Thanks!


The EK X3 res I got does fit thanks to the res bracket being located to the far ouitside


However it does just fit


But for me I will be using the pump top as the mounting point


Hope that helps some


----------



## sticks435

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrGrievous*
> 
> The EK X3 res I got does fit thanks to the res bracket being located to the far ouitside
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> However it does just fit
> 
> 
> But for me I will be using the pump top as the mounting point
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hope that helps some


Yeah it did, thanks! One other question on that last image. Are you planning on mounting the pump to the floor then and not using the res bracket at all?


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *El_Mayo*
> 
> Oh you had a 500R as well? we're definitely on the same page as well. I found it very bearable at 5V and 7V, it was my GPU cooler that was loud. I didn't use the side fan for that past 3 years because dust, but I don't remember it adding at all to the noise. Presumably the Enthoo Pro overall is quiter than the 500R (except at full speed) but I never really want to run a 200mm fan at full speed. What features does the 450D have missing from the Pro that you find the most important? to me the PWM hub is a really nice addition


yes, I got so used to my 500R I got another case because I was sick of looking at i lol. I also removed the door fan because of dust intake. I used dense mod right filters for the front with cougar vortex fans. worked well for me. anyway, as for the 450D, at the base level it's a mid tower based on the 300R frame. so right away it's smaller than the 500R and Enthoo pro. the depth and width is considerably tighter. as for features, the 450D is not skimpy, but the pro has the fan hub, more cable management holes, additional velcro straps (very handy) and is better for optional radiator mounting. the 450D has only a single HDD cage and just two USB ports. not huge things for some, but still you get less of everything, including space, on a mor expensive case. makes no sense tbh.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrGrievous*
> 
> The EK X3 res I got does fit thanks to the res bracket being located to the far ouitside
> 
> 
> However it does just fit
> 
> 
> But for me I will be using the pump top as the mounting point
> 
> 
> Hope that helps some


can you see how that res mounts on the rear location? thinking of getting a 60mm tube res to put there.


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rpjkw11*
> 
> I can't speak to the Pro or Luxe, but I refer to my case as 'Hurricane Primo' because of the great airflow using only the stock fan setup. I went an extra step, however, by mounting my sole HDD in a 5.25 bay and SSDs behind the mobo thus allowing me to remove all of the 3.5 drive trays.


Do you have your hard drive screwed into the 5.25 bay?


----------



## jovkniemozna

i'm planning this thing... any can guess who is?


----------



## rpjkw11

At first I used velco and that worked well, but a got a bracket from a friend designed for just that purpose. A bracket is preferred because I'd rather not have a HDD floating around loose, though the velco was secure enough.


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rpjkw11*
> 
> At first I used velco and that worked well, but a got a bracket from a friend designed for just that purpose. A bracket is preferred because I'd rather not have a HDD floating around loose, though the velco was secure enough.


Gotcha, a bracket or velcro are both great ideas. I too only use 1 HDD and 1 SSD. I currently have them installed in the cages. Problem is, I really like how I can attach two 120mm fans when the cages are in place. I may eventually consider moving the SSD to its bracket and the HDD inside the 5.25 bay. Thank you for the inspiration.


----------



## jovkniemozna

guys, this will be ok? the pump will be this

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/24306/ex-res-739/XSPC_Photon_270_Tube_Glass_Cylinder_Reservoir_Pump_Combo_DDC_-1T_Plus_32.html



i hope you could help me pls


----------



## WHIMington

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jovkniemozna*
> 
> guys, this will be ok? the pump will be this
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/24306/ex-res-739/XSPC_Photon_270_Tube_Glass_Cylinder_Reservoir_Pump_Combo_DDC_-1T_Plus_32.html
> 
> 
> 
> i hope you could help me pls


If you are talking about Pro/Luxe, You will have to remove the rear drive cage and HDD cages to fit a 270, mount it at the back of the large internal panel.


----------



## jovkniemozna

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WHIMington*
> 
> If you are talking about Pro/Luxe, You will have to remove the rear drive cage and HDD cages to fit a 270, mount it at the back of the large internal panel.




done









the psi flow will be right? i think it's a bit longer the first out


----------



## MrGrievous

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sticks435*
> 
> Yeah it did, thanks! One other question on that last image. Are you planning on mounting the pump to the floor then and not using the res bracket at all?


You can't see it in the last pick cause of my hand position but it is roughly a inch above the psu cover but there are 2 holes for screws in the pump top, however I will have to drill my own since thats not really meant to be mounted that way but eh drilling holes is super easy
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PureBlackFire*
> 
> can you see how that res mounts on the rear location? thinking of getting a 60mm tube res to put there.


If the rear you mean the back it looks like this. The X3 250 mm doesnt quite fit at least with the fan but I think a smaller sized res can fit there


----------



## Accursed Entity

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jovkniemozna*


Got more pictures of that beauty?


----------



## Mako0312

Case in.

Time to take pictures tomorrow.


----------



## owcraftsman

ENTHOO LUXE

Please Note

I have no interest in clogging up this thread with tons opinions not related to the case so I have started a dedicated thread here if you'd like to join in and help me. However I thought the layout would be of interest in this thread. If you must respond here keep in mind it should be related to the case only. TY



Considering Enthoo Luxe X99 Build

What I know for sure:


I'm considering my next build a X99 based water cooled rig.
Most definitely it will be CF or SLI.
Parts I already have include the 5-1/4" bay pump/res. and GPU-X multi-link which will be incorporated into the build.
Air flow will be negative pressure.
All fans will be connected to two Phanteks PWM Fan Controllers
BluRay opt drive
PSU cover will remain in place
Alphacool 360 rad is 4.9 x 15.8 x 1.8 inches (WxLxH)
Enthoo Luxe is 9.25197" (W) x 22.12441" (H) x 21.6535" (D)
Alphacool 420 Rad is 1.77165" (H) x 5.66929" (W) x 18.4252" (L)

In terms of scale:


the case is too tall just slightly out of proportion
the 360 rad is scaled wider than I think it should be and length maybe off a bit as well.
240 rad is scaled to large I was thing of a 280 but won't fit according to Phanteks.
the vertical line for drive cage maybe off 
It's the best I could do with paint
I didn't take the time to add feet

Things I'm considering: Looking for suggestions on:


Optional rad.
Filling and Draining
Minimum amount of tubing
2nd D5 pump near drain (out from multi-link > In D5 > out D5 > 280 rad all else same as depicted for water flow)
Will D5 fit on bracket with 240 in front
360 vs 420 rad (top) (Pump/Res and Opt Drive must be considered)
Fans.
GPUz
EK-Ekoolant Pastel Concentrate vs Distilled and Silver Coil
EK Rigid Tubing and fittings vs Monsoon Hardline and fittings vs Conventional tubing and compression fittings.
Additional led light strip
PSU (1000w or less gold or platinum)
Motherboard (likely MSI x99s Gaming 7)
Memory (DDR4 16GB or more 2666 or higher)
CPU (likely i7-5930K)

So tell me what do you think? about layout, air flow, parts, etc. Whatever is on your mind opinions welcome.

Cooling Parts I'm considering

*RADIATORS*

Alphacool NexXxoS XT45 Full Copper 360mm

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_457_667_1075&products_id=32765

Alphacool NexXxoS XT45 Full Copper 240mm

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_457_667_1075&products_id=32764

*TUBING & FITTINGS*

Monsoon hardline compression

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_346_1026_1288&products_id=40017

Monsoon Rigid Acrylic Tubing

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=59_413_1287

*WATERBLOCKS*

Watercool HEATKILLER® GPU-X³ R9 290X

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_971_240_578&products_id=39871

Swiftech CPU waterblock

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_971_498_493&products_id=40873

Watercool GPU Multi-Link

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_971_1018_1083&products_id=36182

*RESERVOIR / PUMP*

Monsoon Pump/Res

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_318_1235&products_id=37660

*FANS*

10x bgears b-Blaster 120

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?gclid=CjwKEAjw37afBRDO5M3h0qvj9zQSJACvwnOJSyNhgkN2AFRsvjv5EV0zGp11eWED7YVAd8pHn0FsLhoCJv_w_wcB&Item=N82E16835132022&nm_mc=KNC-GoogleAdwords&cm_mmc=KNC-GoogleAdwords-_-pla-_-Case+Fans-_-N82E16835132022&ef_id=U9-nXQAABVBR07i2:20140816064513:s


----------



## Fickle Pickle

Little teaser, I just finished transferring over my components from my Antec P280 to the Enthoo Luxe and I've managed to fit radiators over every fan slot. Pics will be up tomorrow. To say the least, you would be amazed at how many radiators I jammed in there.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrGrievous*
> 
> [...] If the rear you mean the back it looks like this. The X3 250 mm doesnt quite fit at least with the fan but I think a smaller sized res can fit there
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Looks like that res could pretty easily be made to fit using standoffs / spacers.
ex:
http://www.ebay.com/sch/?_nkw=m3+spacer
http://www.ebay.com/sch/?_nkw=m4+spacer


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrGrievous*
> 
> If the rear you mean the back it looks like this. The X3 250 mm doesnt quite fit at least with the fan but I think a smaller sized res can fit there


thanks. I'll likely use a 150 res since I'm starting with a cpu only loop.


----------



## combat fighter

@owcraftsman

I am toying with the idea of getting this case myself.

My plan is:

1x Alphacool NexXxoS XT45 Full Copper 420mm Radiator (offers better performance over a 360)

1x Alphacool NexXxoS UT60 Full Copper 240mm laying down flat in the bottom.

Should have plenty of performance with that setup and keeping the fans super low (I hate noise)

I also will be losing the lower HD cage, but keeping in the top cage as I have a few HD's to use. I will be mounting the D5 pump on top of the HD cage (I think its made for that with the pump bracket).
I wont be using any optical drives so it will free up room for the pump to go in. Should be enough room (please correct me if I am wrong!)


----------



## WHIMington

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> There is a big difference between PWM of the 12v current to a voltage controlled device (ie: a 3-pin voltage controlled fan) to simulate the voltage going up/down (like the Phanteks fan hub or a cheap fan controller does) and PWM speed control of a PWM device (ie: a 4-pin PWM fan or pump, etc) that receives a full 12v all the time and has a separate modulated signal that is only there to tell it what speed to run at (like a PWM mobo header does).


They are not similating the voltage going up and down, its just how pulsing DC current behave where the voltage is direct proportional to the rate of the current pulsing, if you connect a Multimeter to the DC motor coils of a true PWM fan you will still observe the same voltage drops when the duty cycle changes, evidently, if you where using auto tuning of FanXperts, you will find the fans will first goes to a full stop, and started to jitter before it start to runs and increasing its speed(wheres a voltage control fan will just jump slightly, stop, then starts to run once they reach operational voltage), the jitter is PWM in work due to the pulsing 12V supply inside the fan that its circuit are specificity design for the fan to avoid damage.


----------



## Qu1ckset

So apparently in the new video i found for the Evolv @Gamescon they have installed hinges on the doors, (video is german)





Also i found a user from linustechtips.com (Crowcore) posted some pictures they took of the evolv at gamescon


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## Accursed Entity

Yeah he did a nice job.


----------



## rpjkw11

I did not like the looks of the Evolv when I saw the first pics, but from the video, it looks very nice. I LOVE hinged doors (at least for my general use) and I noticed how much smaller the Evolv is from what I _think_ is the Luxe.

What I'm most curious about is the upcoming mini which, as has been pointed out to me, refers more to the mobo size than case size. At any rate, Phanteks just continues to set the bar higher and higher. I've noticed several new cases by other companies have adopted some of the features Phanteks have introduced. What I like best is the conservative, monolithic styling Phanteks has chosen. The Evolv breaks ranks somewhat which is a good thing.


----------



## bond32

If anyone is looking for a good pump de-coupling, I tried this and it works well: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006W0PCTG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I recommend either getting 2 of those or one that's bigger. That one is too small but I made it work. I have always had issues with my D5 and vibrations, this helped a lot.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

1/8" sorbothane sheet works great also for pump decoupling. I use it between pump base and case, and use rubber washers on both sides of the screws / bolts fastening it = silent pump.


----------



## bond32

I'm trying to figure out how I can mount this 240mm monsta, 360mm monsta, 360 ST 30, 240 ST30, and 120 ST30 haha. Right now I have the two 360mm rads mounted all within the case. I was thinking I would just find a way to mount the 240 monsta on the top and call it a day since I really only have 2 extra fans right now...


----------



## koniu777

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> So apparently in the new video i found for the Evolv @Gamescon they have installed hinges on the doors, (video is german)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also i found a user from linustechtips.com (Crowcore) posted some pictures they took of the evolv at gamescon
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Evolv is sick as f**k now all we need is a full tower atx version

Sent from my SM-N900V using Tapatalk


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> I'm trying to figure out how I can mount this 240mm monsta, 360mm monsta, 360 ST 30, 240 ST30, and 120 ST30 haha. Right now I have the two 360mm rads mounted all within the case. I was thinking I would just find a way to mount the 240 monsta on the top and call it a day since I really only have 2 extra fans right now...


Posts like this are very confusing in a thread dedicated to so many different cases. Primo? Pro? Luxe? Evolv? Mini XL?

There's a reason the threadstarter has repeatedly asked everyone to preface every post with a heading mentioning which case you are referring to.


----------



## bond32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Posts like this are very confusing in a thread dedicated to so many different cases. Primo? Pro? Luxe? Evolv? Mini XL?
> 
> There's a reason the threadstarter has repeatedly asked everyone to preface every post with a heading mentioning which case you are referring to.


Sorry... Entho Pro


----------



## CBZ323

I'm sorry if it's been mentioned before but the thread grew too big and messy.

What's the difference between the Pro and Luxe regarding the top clearance? Are they identical? does the Luxe allow for external fans?

It looks like the structure is the same but the external plastic allows a set of fans on top of the luxe.

Thanks!


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CBZ323*
> 
> I'm sorry if it's been mentioned before but the thread grew too big and messy.
> 
> What's the difference between the Pro and Luxe regarding the top clearance? Are they identical? does the Luxe allow for external fans?
> It looks like the structure is the same but the external plastic allows a set of fans on top of the luxe.
> 
> Thanks!


The Pro and Luxe are essentially the same case except the Luxe comes with a different front & top panel and led lighting. As you noticed, the top panel on the Luxe allows for a set of fans under a removable filter.

edit:
iirc, there's ~67mm of space between the top of the mobo and the top of the case in both, with hardly any offset clearance. That means in the Pro you can fit a 30mm rad and one set of fans, but not quite fit a 45mm one*. With the Luxe since you also have room for a set of fans on top you can fit a 30mm rad with fans in push pull or you can fit either a 45mm or 60mm rad up top with one set of fans in just push or pull.

* late edit: I suppose a 45mm rad up top in the Pro might be possible with some mobos. Has anyone managed it?? If so what rad, fans, and mobo are you using? Pics would be good.








- - - - - - -
Another thought: Might be a good idea to list a few FAQs for the Enthoo Pro and Luxe on the first post, including the rad clearances.


----------



## TNortham112

Does anyone happen to know how much room there is between the top of the motherboard and the top of the case in the *Enthoo Primo?*

Also, does the *Enthoo Primo* have a space for the fans like in the top of the *Enthoo Luxe*


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Enthoo Primo:
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TNortham112*
> 
> Does anyone happen to know how much room there is between the top of the motherboard and the top of the case in the *Enthoo Primo?*
> 
> Also, does the *Enthoo Primo* have a space for the fans like in the top of the *Enthoo Luxe*


The FAQs in the first post address the space for a rad up top in the Primo:
Quote:


> *What is the max clearance for a radiator installed in the top panel?*
> - The case has a clearance of 70mm for mounting a radiator in the roof. The mounts are offset by ~54mm so installing a 60mm (120mm series) radiator in push pull should not be an issue. As long as you do not have anything taller than 53mm on the motherboard (including ram), you can even install a 480mm monsta radiator in push pull. The X79 Dark, and G-Skill ram CAN be used with a monsta rad in push pull.


And yes, the top on the Luxe is like the one on the Primo. They both have room for a set of fans on top of the case under the filter cover.

Here's a post of mine a while back that should help clarify how much room is up top for a rad in the Enthoo Primo:
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> The Enthoo Primo has 70mm from the top of the mobo to the top of the case, with room above that for a set of fans under the top filter cover. It also has ~54mm of offset with 120mm-series rads (360, 480) so that a rad/fans can overhang the mobo so long as there's nothing (ram, heatsinks, etc) along the top of the board taller than 53mm or so.
> 
> 
> 
> Soooo, thicker rads like a monsta can fit up top as long as there's nothing too tall along the top of the mobo.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Snip
> 
> 
> 
> A monsta 480 rad is 85mm thick and should really only be run in push pull, which would overhang the top ~40mm of the motherboard.
> 
> There's one person in this thread who managed to fit a 420 monsta, a triple 140mm-series rad, in the top of his Primo, and it has 10mm less offset from the mobo (~44mm) than a 120mm-series rad does. So a monsta definitely can fit up top.


----------



## Rahldrac

About the Luxe:

So I'm probably going with the CM Nepton 280l as CPU cooler. But I will not be needing any DVD bays or HDD bays (I have a 1 TB SSD). So is it possible to mount the Nepton in the front part of the top, and have the 140mm fan that is already installed in the top back still there?
Or would the gain be minimal? Or even counter productive when one take into consideration air flow?


----------



## Newtocooling

What do you fellow Enthoo Primo owners think would be a fair price to ask for used one, that was only used for about two months?


----------



## makn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Newtocooling*
> 
> What do you fellow Enthoo Primo owners think would be a fair price to ask for used one, that was only used for about two months?


Why sell?

I guess around 75% of new price


----------



## Newtocooling

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *makn*
> 
> Why sell?
> 
> I guess around 75% of new price


I switched over to a Caselabs, so now I'm sitting on a bunch of compression fittings and a Enthoo, that I'm not sure what to do with.


----------



## bond32

*ENTHOO PRO CASE!!!!!!!*

Made some changes yesterday, cut (very poorly) two holes to route tubing to the bottom and mounted a 240mm radiator on the bottom of the case. Mounted the two monsta's I have as well, 360mm in push pull up top on the outside and monsta 240 in push in the front. I still have one 120mm st30 I think I might attempt to mount on the back, also might mount the st30 360 I have on the outside somehow however I am out of fans lol. Probably will order some Swiftech Helix fans soon, kinda liked those plus I feel they are underrated for what you get.





Edit: Few things to note. This was actually not easy to do. Mounting the monsta up front with the fans on the inside for the bottom rad, the monsta rested on the fan which caused the blades to hit the case. Solution is to either bend or not use the small side 5.25" bay cover or drill holes in the cover bottom so the monsta can be scooted up. Also this took a while as getting everything mounted I had to backtrack often to fit one thing or another. So I do not recommend doing shenanigans such as this unless you know what you're getting into.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Which case is that bond32? The heading font is too small I can't quite make it out.


----------



## Dorito Bandit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Which case is that bond32? The heading font is too small I can't quite make it out.












Nice work on the case, bond32! Very nice looking!


----------



## bond32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dorito Bandit*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Nice work on the case, bond32! Very nice looking!


Ha, not much left of it now as I have pretty well chopped it up. At any rate, ended out ordering some rosewill hyperbola fans: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006DKEQV0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Good fans for the money. They are a rebrand of some Akasa fans.


----------



## Accursed Entity

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> Ha, not much left of it now as I have pretty well chopped it up. At any rate, ended out ordering some rosewill hyperbola fans: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006DKEQV0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
> 
> Good fans for the money. They are a rebrand of some Akasa fans.


Nice, they look like the Akasa Vipers.


----------



## combat fighter

Hey there,

Can someone tell me if there is enough room to fit a Alphacool NexXxoS Monsta 240 laying down flat in the bottom (I would only have it in pull)?

I was going to go with a Alphacool NexXxoS UT60 Full Copper 240mm in the bottom but if there is enough height I thought why not the Monsta?

Or should I stick with my original plan with the Alphacool NexXxoS UT60 240mm.

I would be removing the bottom HD cage and keeping the top one as I have few HD's I would like to use.

I'd appreciate a speedy reply as I am about to buy this combo!

(I'll be putting a Alphacool NexXxoS UT60 420mm in the top too)


----------



## MrGrievous

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *combat fighter*
> 
> Hey there,
> 
> Can someone tell me if there is enough room to fit a Alphacool NexXxoS Monsta 240 laying down flat in the bottom (I would only have it in pull)?
> 
> I was going to go with a Alphacool NexXxoS UT60 Full Copper 240mm in the bottom but if there is enough height I thought why not the Monsta?
> 
> Or should I stick with my original plan with the Alphacool NexXxoS UT60 240mm.
> 
> I would be removing the bottom HD cage and keeping the top one as I have few HD's I would like to use.
> 
> I'd appreciate a speedy reply as I am about to buy this combo!
> 
> (I'll be putting a Alphacool NexXxoS UT60 420mm in the top too)


I'm guessing your talking either about the Luxe or Pro? In either case a 240 can fit in the bottom just nothing bigger, now the monsta rad can defiantly fit but it will require one of the drive cages to be removed. I too was entertaining the idea of getting some monstas but decided against it as using those rads with only one layer of fans would require higher rpm which in turn means higher noise.


----------



## combat fighter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrGrievous*
> 
> I'm guessing your talking either about the Luxe or Pro? In either case a 240 can fit in the bottom just nothing bigger, now the monsta rad can defiantly fit but it will require one of the drive cages to be removed. I too was entertaining the idea of getting some monstas but decided against it as using those rads with only one layer of fans would require higher rpm which in turn means higher noise.


Yes indeed I was talking about the Luxe (should of said that before!)

I was always going to take out the lower HD cage, but keeping the top HD cage as I have a few HD's to use.

You make a good point about the Monsta rad, while it may fit I want my case to be really quiet so I guess the 60mm version of that rad would be better suited as silence is important to me.

Thanks


----------



## combat fighter

Just ordered:

1x Phanteks Enthoo Luxe (Black)
1x Alphacool NexXxoS UT60 Full Copper 240mm
1x Alphacool NexXxoS UT60 Full Copper 420mm
And a few other bits. . .

Will be here tomorrow. Happy days!

I'm not planning on putting it all together just yet, I want to get an idea for which res to get etc so I'll need a few more bits yet. Plus I need a bit of downtime to swap from my current case!
No point rushing this job.


----------



## colinmcr

Hi all, can't believe its taken me so long to sign up to this Forum but you have an amazing Phanteks thread going here. I have an Enthoo Primo build done and just love anything Phanteks produce so far.

Look to make some changes to mine, colour of sleeving and go over to hardline. Might even replace the side windows.

Here is "Primo Midas" my build log is over on OcUK


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *colinmcr*
> 
> Hi all, can't believe its taken me so long to sign up to this Forum but you have an amazing Phanteks thread going here. I have an Enthoo Primo build done and just love anything Phanteks produce so far.
> 
> Look to make some changes to mine, colour of sleeving and go over to hardline. Might even replace the side windows.
> 
> Here is "Primo Midas" my build log is over on OcUK
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Image


Wow, reminds of seeing the King Tut exhibit at the Smithsonian when I was a kid. Pretty sure that would have been what his rig looked like if he'd lived in the 21st century.

If you do replace the sleeving I'd suggest DarkSide's Yellow Sand or maybe MDPC's Vanilla Sands, but I think Darkside has the more 'golden' color of the two.


----------



## Mako0312

Ugh I think my Luxe left me out an SSD bracket


----------



## colinmcr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Wow, reminds of seeing the King Tut exhibit at the Smithsonian when I was a kid. Pretty sure that would have been what his rig looked like if he'd lived in the 21st century.
> 
> If you do replace the sleeving I'd suggest DarkSide's Yellow Sand or maybe MDPC's Vanilla Sands, but I think Darkside has the more 'golden' color of the two.


I'm going to be using Vanilla Sands.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mako0312*
> 
> Ugh I think my Luxe left me out an SSD bracket


Did it not come with one? It's supposed to come with one SSD bracket and has two mounting locations for it.
See here: 



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *colinmcr*
> 
> I'm going to be using Vanilla Sands.


Can't go wrong with MDPC sleeve. Nils is a great guy.


----------



## Mako0312

It comes with 2. I thought it was 1 as well, but it says 2 in the manual in a couple different spots.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mako0312*
> 
> It comes with 2. I thought it was 1 as well, but it says 2 in the manual in a couple different spots.


Well, I suspect it's just like with the Primo then the manual has mistakes, because every review of the case says it comes with one, similar to the Primo has three mounting locations and comes with two brackets. At least now they sell extras separately.

Maybe you can get support to send you a free one since it says two in the manual?


----------



## Mako0312

Aw well color me disappointed. I got excited when I thought I was getting 2. O well!


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Well you are correct. I'm looking at the manual for the Luxe right now and it definitely does say "2x included" all over the every place the SSD bracket is mentioned. I'm thinking Phanteks support will be obligated to send out free ones to Luxe owners without too much griping about it.


----------



## sticks435

They most likely just copied the Primo manual and forgot to change it.


----------



## Dorito Bandit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mako0312*
> 
> Aw well color me disappointed. I got excited when I thought I was getting 2. O well!


Don't sweat it, man. Unless you'd prefer to use an actual SSD bracket, you can simply use some velcro to mount your SSD. Something like *this* or *this* would work great! Plus, would allow you to mount your SSDs almost anywhere. I'll probably do this once I get a couple more SSDs in the near future. Just a suggestion.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sticks435*
> 
> They most likely just copied the Primo manual and forgot to change it.


Nah, it's totally different than the Primo manual. It can't be a cut and paste issue, and if it was just a mistake it shouldn't be repeated over and over.

I think Phanteks support should owe you another SSD bracket. I suggest you email them this image or a link to it and let them know your case only came with one:


----------



## Mako0312

Thanks for the image.

I'm going to shoot them an email at some point tomorrow.


----------



## WHIMington

Yes, the Luxe should comes with 2(which is in my case), you should contact Phanteks CS for that missing bracket.


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Did it not come with one? It's supposed to come with one SSD bracket and has two mounting locations for it.
> See here:


Dmitry had a pre production sample. it comes with two, mine came with both right behind the motherboard tray. Phanteks stated this in the case specs a while ago. just about every other review sample had two as well. it's the Pro that comes with one SSD bracket. I'm gonna email CS about my dead fan hub.


----------



## owcraftsman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *combat fighter*
> 
> @owcraftsman
> 
> I am toying with the idea of getting this case myself.
> 
> My plan is:
> 
> 1x Alphacool NexXxoS XT45 Full Copper 420mm Radiator (offers better performance over a 360)
> 
> 1x Alphacool NexXxoS UT60 Full Copper 240mm laying down flat in the bottom.
> 
> Should have plenty of performance with that setup and keeping the fans super low (I hate noise)
> 
> I also will be losing the lower HD cage, but keeping in the top cage as I have a few HD's to use. I will be mounting the D5 pump on top of the HD cage (I think its made for that with the pump bracket).
> I wont be using any optical drives so it will free up room for the pump to go in. Should be enough room (please correct me if I am wrong!)


Ya I like the size of the Luxe for my desktop a Primo sits there now which will be heading to the floor at my other workstation. Still need to build a stand w/rollers though. Bottom line my HAF 932 Advanced has got to go.

Seems like I saw a 420 in a Luxe where the access from the top port was partially covered however the steel could be notched a bit but still not direct access without popping the top cover off. In other words a tight fit.

Below illustrates my estimation on the fit. It'd be nice to see a top view pic of a actual 420 in there. Also it appears you would only have one choice to place the inlet outlet ports to the front for top access too.



If you are going with a push pull config, like I am, I'd be concerned about fitting a D5 in there especially using the pump bracket. Each 5-1/4" bay is approx. 42.5mm high. There is 4 counting the I/O panel or 170mm to the floor of the OD cage. A stock D5 pump is 90mm tall w/factory base + 10mm (for a Phanteks pump base) + (Rad) 60mm = 160mm without a fan on the bottom side of the Rad. Anyway where there is a will there is a way I suppose. The good news is the drive cage is removable....



...and the I/O panel won't interfer. From this image it looks like there is very little but wires to work around in that area.



I used a BitsPower tube res/pump combo in the Primo because there is room for it. Also because it has a door in the front which would have covered the good looks of it. The Luxe with no door seems to me to be a natural for a dual bay pump/res not only are the quit efficient with top performance but they save space and look great too.

The monsoon has led's built in with 16 different colors to choose from which seems to be a pretty good fit for the light features of the Luxe. Still I gots to have my BR too so craming a 420 in there is out of the question for my build. However I don't think Id be loosing that much. What I'd loose in terms of size is some what negated by the loos of air flow blocked by the panel that supports the Rad. Note in the pic above just how much of the flow of a 140 mm fan will be blocked. Of course the air has no where to go but through the Rad but you can see some the restriction. Some of the fins will have limited air flow at best. It's the price we pay for one size fit all I guess.

Like you, I'd like to keep one of the HDD cages as well but I have decided to pick up a after market HDD cooler to house it in. Like this placed on top of the PSU Cover which must stay in place IMO and because I need the space for the 2nd Rad in the front. I may even just transition to my WD My Book 4TB USB 3.0 external drive and do without any mechanical drive in my case.

I'm surprised you are the only one with a comment on my post there. I was really looking forward to some opinions on the proposed build and loop especially from the folks around here which seem quit educated on such things. Anyway thanks for the input.


----------



## MrGrievous

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *owcraftsman*
> 
> [...] Seems like I saw a 420 in a Luxe where the access from the top port was partially covered however the steel could be notched a bit but still not direct access without popping the top cover off. In other words a tight fit.
> Below illustrates my estimation on the fit. It'd be nice to see a top view pic of a actual 420 in there. Also it appears you would only have one choice to place the inlet outlet ports to the front for top access too. [...]


Once I unpack after moving back to the dorms I'll take a pic of the top on how the 420 fits with the allowed access to the ports. Also Imop a cooler for a HDD isn't needed at least not for mine, even when I ran my system in open the open with nothing but ambient cooling the HDD that I used for storage (SSD for OS) it was barely above room tempature when I touched the housing during a game session.


----------



## anteante

The fan-hub that follows with pro and luxe, can i controll my fan thrue the motherboard without pwm fans ? And i´m thinking about fans for my 2 radiators, going with either Corsair SP 120 Led or NBe-loop B12-2. What do u think?


----------



## RnRollie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *anteante*
> 
> The fan-hub that follows with pro and luxe, can i controll my fan thrue the motherboard without pwm fans ? And i´m thinking about fans for my 2 radiators, going with either Corsair SP 120 Led or NBe-loop B12-2. What do u think?


If your MB isn't stupid, then yes.

And use the eLoops.


----------



## owcraftsman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrGrievous*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *owcraftsman*
> 
> [...] Seems like I saw a 420 in a Luxe where the access from the top port was partially covered however the steel could be notched a bit but still not direct access without popping the top cover off. In other words a tight fit.
> Below illustrates my estimation on the fit. It'd be nice to see a top view pic of a actual 420 in there. Also it appears you would only have one choice to place the inlet outlet ports to the front for top access too. [...]
> 
> 
> 
> Once I unpack after moving back to the dorms I'll take a pic of the top on how the 420 fits with the allowed access to the ports. Also Imop a cooler for a HDD isn't needed at least not for mine, even when I ran my system in open the open with nothing but ambient cooling the HDD that I used for storage (SSD for OS) it was barely above room tempature when I touched the housing during a game session.
Click to expand...

Ohh that's great I'd love to see that fit. Which 420 do you have?

The logic behind the HDD cooler is more to provide a housing for it rather than cooling sine I'll be removing both HDD cages to accommodate a front Rad. Also something attractive enough that it blends with the build because it will be in plain view through the side panel glass on top of the PSU cover. Now that I thinks about it on the floor of the case under the PSU cover would likely be a better place for it still I'd prefer it in something.


----------



## MrGrievous

*Luxe*

Alright here are the promised pictures













As u can see in the last pic the rad can still slide more and allow access but its a tight fit. I got a Nexxos xt45 420mm radiator too btw

Also here is how I have my HDD configured







I took one the caddies and trimmed it a little to fit and then applied double sided tape to and let me tell you that it is NOT going anywhere, was super hard to remove to better position it


----------



## Dorito Bandit

Nice sock in that first pic! Brand? Just kidding!









How loud is your system? Also, I will most likely use the same method to mount a couple more SSDs in my Pro later on down the line.

Looks good, man!


----------



## jasonite

Hi all, this is my second attempt at a post as my first attempt disappeared for no reason *grumble*. So I'm a first-time PC builder and chose the Enthoo Pro for my case. I'm still waiting for my final components to arrive, so I haven't used my system yet. I bought an extra 140mm fan from Phanteks to put on top of my case for better cooling, and since I don't have a water cooling system I've been reading articles on fan cooling arrangements. It seems that the best for me would be a negative air pressure according to articles like this. I'm thinking of swapping my 200mm fan to the top and bringing the 140mm to the front to facilitate this. I've removed all of the 2.5" cages for better airflow, and only kept the 3.5" for my optical drive. I do plan on overclocking as well. Please share your thoughts, any feedback is appreciated! I've included three photos to give an idea of my system:


----------



## CptnSlow

Hey guys.. do Primo's have more rad room than the Luxe has?


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CptnSlow*
> 
> Hey guys.. do Primo's have more rad room than the Luxe has?


much more.


----------



## MrGrievous

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dorito Bandit*
> 
> Nice sock in that first pic! Brand? Just kidding!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> How loud is your system? Also, I will most likely use the same method to mount a couple more SSDs in my Pro later on down the line.
> 
> Looks good, man!


Actually Its not even water cooled yet lol got anxious and put the rad in, have to wait for the tubing to come in now as I originally bought the wrong stuff







and didn't want to tear down the system when it was just built lol.


----------



## krnmastersgt

As much as I like reading through this thread since the Phanteks cases are pretty interesting, anyone with the Luxe/Pro have a 280mm rad mounted in the front? I'm thinking of switching over to this case but not sure the existing hardware I have is going to transition well since i have a Monsta 280mm and wondering if it can be installed behind the little Phanteks panel on the side (w/ push pull fans) and a tube res right behind it. Anyone running something similar or know if the spacing works out?


----------



## MrGrievous

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *krnmastersgt*
> 
> As much as I like reading through this thread since the Phanteks cases are pretty interesting, anyone with the Luxe/Pro have a 280mm rad mounted in the front? I'm thinking of switching over to this case but not sure the existing hardware I have is going to transition well since i have a Monsta 280mm and wondering if it can be installed behind the little Phanteks panel on the side (w/ push pull fans) and a tube res right behind it. Anyone running something similar or know if the spacing works out?


I don't have have a 280 but I do know that it wont fit in the front without modding the front optical bays. the case is just shy of 1/2 a inch or so of a 280mm fitting in the front.


----------



## bond32

*Phanteks Enthoo Pro*

Just finished more modifications... Now I have a total of 5 radiators in the Pro. Yes, some might consider this to be MAYBE a hit of too much. I say shame on you, this is an overclocking site. Go big or go home.

360mm Monsta up top, 3xAP-15's in push
240mm Monsta front, 2xAP-15's in push
240mm ST30 bottom (outside), 2 XSPC 2000 rpm fans in pull
360mm ST30 side, 3xAP-15's in push
120mm ST30 rear, some rosewill garbage fan 2000 rpm


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## RnRollie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> *Phanteks Enthoo Pro*
> 
> Just finished more modifications... Now I have a total of 5 radiators in the Pro. Yes, some might consider this to be MAYBE a hit of too much. I say shame on you, this is an overclocking site. Go big or go home.
> 
> 360mm Monsta up top, 3xAP-15's in push
> 240mm Monsta front, 2xAP-15's in push
> 240mm ST30 bottom (outside), 2 XSPC 2000 rpm fans in pull
> 360mm ST30 side, 3xAP-15's in push
> 120mm ST30 rear, some rosewill garbage fan 2000 rpm
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


you know what is missing? A pair of MO-RA's ....


----------



## bond32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RnRollie*
> 
> you know what is missing? A pair of MO-RA's ....


Damn you're right... Could make the entire side panel the rad no?

Edit: It's occurred to me there are a ton of tiny things that would have made the Pro just a hair better.

- Stretch the entire case front to back about 5 mm - this would allow the larger psu's to be used with a 240mm radiator on the bottom.
- Bump the top up a hair similar to the Luxe to allow fans to mount outside, or allow for the 45mm thick radiators.
-Bit more extreme, but have the solid side panel with fan cutouts like the Enthoo Primo. I have a 360mm radiator mounted on the side just like it would be in the primo, could have mounted it where the side panel would have gone back on.
- Ditch the 200mm fan concept. They are worthless. Phanteks' attempt at a 200mm fan was good though, but in the future stick to the 120/140's.
- Cut out the top panel more to allow my ridiculous monsta to mount on the top like it is but still get the top panel on.


----------



## krnmastersgt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrGrievous*
> 
> I don't have have a 280 but I do know that it wont fit in the front without modding the front optical bays. the case is just shy of 1/2 a inch or so of a 280mm fitting in the front.


I wouldn't mind cutting out part of the 5.25" drive cage, just wondering if I'd have to take out that side plate or not. Only thing I'm using my 5.25" is stealth mounting my fan controller in my 750D so cutting out a huge section of the drive bays is fine by me since it won't even be visible.


----------



## owcraftsman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrGrievous*
> 
> *Luxe*
> 
> Alright here are the promised pictures
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As u can see in the last pic the rad can still slide more and allow access but its a tight fit. I got a Nexxos xt45 420mm radiator too btw
> 
> Also here is how I have my HDD configured
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I took one the caddies and trimmed it a little to fit and then applied double sided tape to and let me tell you that it is NOT going anywhere, was super hard to remove to better position it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Hey TY much appreciated +rep. Exactly what I wanted to see too, with the fill to the back of the case.

I like the HDD idea too.

I'd say my guesstimate layout was pretty accurate.

I hate ripping into a new case, or old but, that wouldn't be to bad and God knows I've done it many times before but pretty much eliminates resale if ever you decide to do so.


----------



## semitope

ANyone seeing a deal on the pro?


----------



## Accursed Entity

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *semitope*
> 
> ANyone seeing a deal on the pro?


You mean the $99 it cost?


----------



## semitope

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Accursed Entity*
> 
> You mean the $99 it cost?


I'd be shipping it out of the US so that cost, attractive as it is, gets crapped on by its weight. Since I can't possibly find a deal on shipping and clearing customs... I have to hope for a reduction in price somewhere. Costs more to bring in than it does to buy when its heavy .









Its the most appealing of these cases overall but weighs so much still.


----------



## fateswarm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *semitope*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Accursed Entity*
> 
> You mean the $99 it cost?
> 
> 
> 
> I'd be shipping it out of the US
Click to expand...

I had to avoid sending it from a nearby town and got to pick it up to avoid shipping lol..


----------



## rh pc

Hi, Guys!!

Ready for a new case and build, so I opted for the Enthoo Luxe. I guess the Pro would have done it for what I intend, but I do like metal parts rather than plastic.

Anyways, currently have my water loop set up in a highly modified Antec Twelve Hundred and was wondering if I have to drain the loop and re-do it all in the new case or could I transfer it over? It is only a CPU loop, not intentions to WC my R9 280x video cards.

Thanks!!


----------



## owcraftsman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rh pc*
> 
> Hi, Guys!!
> 
> Ready for a new case and build, so I opted for the Enthoo Luxe. I guess the Pro would have done it for what I intend, but I do like metal parts rather than plastic.
> 
> Anyways, currently have my water loop set up in a highly modified Antec Twelve Hundred and was wondering if I have to drain the loop and re-do it all in the new case or could I transfer it over? It is only a CPU loop, not intentions to WC my R9 280x video cards.
> 
> Thanks!!


I don't see any good reason why you couldn't just transfer it over other than the missed opportunity for a thorough inspection, cleaning and flushing of the loop and all it's components. Not to mention new fluid. This is considered routine maintenance and is recommended every 6 months. I personally have gone a year at the longest but you'd be surprised the junk you can find in a CPU block or pump etc after an extended period of time. All that stuff can cause lower flow and restrictions which equals lower performance and unnecessary wear. Even Car radiator gets flushed and rejuvenated once a year if your smart. Of course I have no idea how long your loop has been in service so what every blows your hair back.


----------



## pmachado

Hey everyone,

Long time lurker but recently registered here.

I'm current building a custom water cooling loop in my *Enthoo Primo.* This thread was a very big inspiration.

I've come across one problem right now however. I planned on using a *Phobya GChanger 480mm Radiator* in push/pull for the top of the case. When test fitting I noticed the rad doesn't entirely fit at the top of the case meaning the elongated holes don't line up. The rad is pushed as far forward to the front of the case but it needs an +/- 3mm to line up the holes.

Has anyone come across this is or have a similar radiator in this case. Any help is appreciated.


----------



## owcraftsman

*Hey Everybody what would you like to see in the next Enthoo Primo case?*

*Things I'd like to see in a Primo revision*

Or next big case from Phanteks what ever they call it.


Supplied Option for casters/ wheels
Higher quality Acrylic or Lexan Glass
better fastener system for side panel glass
Option to hinge front panel door right hand or left hand.
Even a clear glass panel door might be nice too with a nice aluminum frame for hardware.
An easily removable panel that is directly behind the small side panel glass to expose whatever is behind it without having to remove the entire wall there.
A lighted Phanteks Case Badge vs not, that you see through the small side panel window.
Lighting options similar to the Luxe. On both sides, RGB and expandable.
A reservoir bracket attachable to the column that separates the main area and the optical and HDD drive cage area similar to the Luxe but attaching to the vertical column.
A bit more space between bottom panel and filters. The holes are too large for some screws (hex heads) when attaching a rad in the bottom requiring a washer and screw. This combination interferes with opening and closing the filters. 
Two LEDs to illuminate the mobo I/O panel similar to some of NZXT cases.
Two LEDs to illuminate Front panel behind door
Anti-vibration pads on supplied case fans
Extra push pin locks in accessory bin for top and front panels.
Possibly a bit wider bottom rad space for greater rad compatibility.

*Phanteks Accessories I'd like to see in the future.*

Anti-Vibration gaskets for the multiple rad configurations all cases. 120,240,360,480,140,280,& 420 gaskets

More Phanteks 120mm fan options

higher static pressure and RPM 140mm fans (Top of the line radiator fan)


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pmachado*
> 
> Hey everyone,
> 
> Long time lurker but recently registered here.
> 
> I'm current building a custom water cooling loop in my *Enthoo Primo.* This thread was a very big inspiration.
> 
> I've come across one problem right now however. I planned on using a *Phobya GChanger 480mm Radiator* in push/pull for the top of the case. When test fitting I noticed the rad doesn't entirely fit at the top of the case meaning the elongated holes don't line up. The rad is pushed as far forward to the front of the case but it needs an +/- 3mm to line up the holes.
> 
> Has anyone come across this is or have a similar radiator in this case. Any help is appreciated.


Phobya GChanger should be the exact same rad as an Alphacool (they are the same company owned by Aquatuning iirc) and a 480mm Alphacool definitely fits, but you have to have the ports towards the rear. That goes for all 480 rads in the Primo I'm pretty sure.


----------



## tatmMRKIV

its been confirmed to be the same radiator but the alpha has more ports if I remember correctly

Things I'd like to see in a Primo revision bettter mobo screws,
stiffer gpu support
More room between res bracket and mobo... I am not sure where they expect me to route my 24pin power cable..
Power button could be better quality
higher quality fan filter cover clips (so its not liable to dent the grill when you are pressing it down hard enough to activate and deactivate..

other than that I love it to death


----------



## pmachado

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Phobya GChanger should be the exact same rad as an Alphacool (they are the same company owned by Aquatuning iirc) and a 480mm Alphacool definitely fits, but you have to have the ports towards the rear. That goes for all 480 rads in the Primo I'm pretty sure.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tatmMRKIV*
> 
> its been confirmed to be the same radiator but the alpha has more ports if I remember correctly


Thanks for the replies! When I was test fitting I definitely had the ports facing the rear of the case. I'm going to try again and perhaps take a picture of what I'm encountering. Hopefully just user error on my end. From your replies and what I've read/seen in this thread it should fit.


----------



## Scotty99

Hey guys, can the plastic frame on the luxe that holds on the cover on front of the dust filter be removed entirely to improve airflow like the pro?


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scotty99*
> 
> Hey guys, can the plastic frame on the luxe that holds on the cover on front of the dust filter be removed entirely to improve airflow like the pro?


you mean the aluminium plate? if so, it can be screwed off. though it looks dumb as the standoffs are on the mesh panel and not on the plate itself. a silly design oversight.


----------



## Scotty99

No i know the aluminum plate can be removed, i was wondering if the piece the plate attaches too can be removed (as it looks like you called it a standoff). As to make it look like the pro, and give better airflow.


----------



## Accursed Entity

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scotty99*
> 
> No i know the aluminum plate can be removed, i was wondering if the piece the plate attaches too can be removed (as it looks like you called it a standoff). As to make it look like the pro, and give better airflow.


Watch HardwareCanuck's video.


----------



## Scotty99

Oh wow we were actually talking about two different things, imagine that lol.

Either way, that sucks. If i go phanteks im goin with the pro.


----------



## WHIMington

So yesterday I figured out how to mount a Photon 170 to the front of the *Luxe/Pro*











Simply put, you have to dump the black mounting plate of the tube res, drill 2 hole onto the case mounting plate to mount the lower part, and add a L shape bracket to mount a upper part

like this



I also saw off the buttom of the case mounting bracket to make clearance for rigid tubings.

With that said the only thing left is to start bending tubes, I am in business.


----------



## tolis626

Hey guys, sorry if this has been asked before, but here goes.

I may be building a custom loop in the not very distant future, and only have one question regarding my choice of fans. The issue is mostly the Phanteks fan hub.

I was thinking a 420 up top with 3 (or 6 for push pull, we'll see) PH-F140SP fans (probably the ones that come with the case) and a 360 at the bottom with 3 or 6 NB eLoops. Thing is, I'll go with either the B12-4 ones (non-PWM 2400RPM model) or the B12-P (PWM 2000RPM). The Phanteks fans are about 1300RPM and are non-PWM. If I go with the B12-4 eLoops, will the Phanteks hub be able to properly control all the different fans? If not, I will just go with the B12-P ones. I already have a 3-way PWM fan splitter from EKWB I can use. My mobo only has 4-pin fan headers and, unless I'm mistaken, they are all PWM.

All that is in case I decide to use only push or pull. For push pull I would probably need a second hub and they are not available for sale here, so I'll probably go with the fan splitter mehod and be done with it.

And one more, albeit stupid question. Does anyone know whether the PH-F140SPs' and eLoops' fan blades illuminate under UV light? I mean, they are white, so I guess they should, but I'm not sure.

Thanks in advance!


----------



## Rahldrac

God, I would sell my Maximus Hero and buy an Mini-Itx board if only Phanteks would release their Mini XL. Spoke with support today, no date yet :/


----------



## tatmMRKIV

If I was serious about buildin a smaller system I'd pull the trigger on a parvum 2 but I already blew all the case money I will ever have earlier this week on something I felt I couldn't not have


----------



## BaSkA

Originally Posted by BaSkA View Post

Hi guys!

So, I'm a Enthoo Luxe owner to be (hopefully) and I have a few questions... if anyone could spare some time to enlight me, I would very much appreciate it!

1. Are the three included fans quiet? I plan on buying two or three PH-140XP fans which are the same as the included 140mm ones, except they come with rubber grommets/screws and are 4-pin PWM. If I buy 12 rubber grommets/screws for the included fans, will it help keeping them quiet(er) or should I change all the included fans?

2. Does the case come with one or two SSD mounting brackets? I believe it comes with One Single SSD mounting bracket but I have 2 SSDs so... yeah, should I buy the second one?

3. I only have one HDD, is it possible to mount it on one of the Optical Drive bays so I can remove the HDD cages for better airflow (without drilling)? And, if you can't mount it there, which cage do you guys believe is the best to remove for best airflow from a 200mm front intake fan?

4. Are there any noticeable holes on the case that could suck dust? Apart from the rear which is all perforated? I'm probably gonna have slight negative pressure and I don't mind making some DIY ghetto air/dust filters for those gaps...

5. Any complaints on the case? I can only find complaints related to the LED colors, tinted window, visual stuff that I think it's fine.

Sorry for the wall of text and thank you in advance for reading/replying







!


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BaSkA*
> 
> Originally Posted by BaSkA View Post
> 
> Hi guys!
> 
> So, I'm a Enthoo Luxe owner to be (hopefully) and I have a few questions... if anyone could spare some time to enlight me, I would very much appreciate it!
> 
> 1. Are the three included fans quiet? I plan on buying two or three PH-140XP fans which are the same as the included 140mm ones, except they come with rubber grommets/screws and are 4-pin PWM. If I buy 12 rubber grommets/screws for the included fans, will it help keeping them quiet(er) or should I change all the included fans?


the 140mm fans are silent IMO. the 200mm is audible, but not "loud". I contacted brian phanteks a week before my case even shipped about the rubber corners and he put a bag with some in the box my case came in.
Quote:


> 2. Does the case come with one or two SSD mounting brackets? I believe it comes with One Single SSD mounting bracket but I have 2 SSDs so... yeah, should I buy the second one?


the Luxe comes with two SSD brackets. the confusion was over one reviewer and AFAIK, one owner having got samples with one missing.
Quote:


> 3. I only have one HDD, is it possible to mount it on one of the Optical Drive bays so I can remove the HDD cages for better airflow (without drilling)? And, if you can't mount it there, which cage do you guys believe is the best to remove for best airflow from a 200mm front intake fan?


easily done. I bought two of these from newegg.com and have my two mechanical drives mounted in the 5.25" bays so I could remove both HDD cages.


http://imgur.com/qDgLO

.
Quote:


> 4. Are there any noticeable holes on the case that could suck dust? Apart from the rear which is all perforated? I'm probably gonna have slight negative pressure and I don't mind making some DIY ghetto air/dust filters for those gaps...


aside from those usual spots, no, the front, top and bottom are fully covered with no gaps.
Quote:


> 5. Any complaints on the case? I can only find complaints related to the LED colors, tinted window, visual stuff that I think it's fine.


the only complaints I can think of are the lack of 280 rad support in front and bottom. especially the bottom as I easily mounted one of their included 140mm fans in the front most position in the bottom. not having screw holes for it makes no sense to me as I cannot find a single conflict or restriction in it. also, the tube res mounting is a bit limited with the default options. the location next to the pci-e slots will be limited to shorter ones, not exceeding ~60mm thick (the first one I wanted to buy is 75mm thick). the location by the drive bays will be useless if you have a gpu longer than 11.5 inches (won't be an issue when water cooling gpu, but i left my giant cooler on it). beyond those I'm satisfied.

Quote:


> Sorry for the wall of text and thank you in advance for reading/replying
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> !


no problem. hope I could help answer some of your questions.


----------



## BaSkA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PureBlackFire*
> 
> the 140mm fans are silent IMO. the 200mm is audible, but not "loud". I contacted brian phanteks a week before my case even shipped about the rubber corners and he put a bag with some in the box my case came in.


Cool... I will buy rubber grommets/stands for the three included fans, then!
Quote:


> the Luxe comes with two SSD brackets. the confusion was over one reviewer and AFAIK, one owner having got samples with one missing.


Oh, okay. I won't have to buy another one then, thank you!
Quote:


> easily done. I bought two of these from newegg.com and have my two mechanical drives mounted in the 5.25" bays so I could remove both HDD cages.
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/qDgLO
> 
> .


This is awesome!!!!!! Thank you very much, I'm so happy I'll be able to remove both HDD cages! I had never seen this kind of adapter! This is extremely great news.
Quote:


> aside from those usual spots, no, the front, top and bottom are fully covered with no gaps.


All right! Already have magnet filters for the PCI slots so, thanks.
Quote:


> the only complaints I can think of are the lack of 280 rad support in front and bottom. especially the bottom as I easily mounted one of their included 140mm fans in the front most position in the bottom. not having screw holes for it makes no sense to me as I cannot find a single conflict or restriction in it. also, the tube res mounting is a bit limited with the default options. the location next to the pci-e slots will be limited to shorter ones, not exceeding ~60mm thick (the first one I wanted to buy is 75mm thick). the location by the drive bays will be useless if you have a gpu longer than 11.5 inches (won't be an issue when water cooling gpu, but i left my giant cooler on it). beyond those I'm satisfied.


I don't plan on water cooling so I'm glad to hear that all the issues you could find were "related" to that!
Quote:


> no problem. hope I could help answer some of your questions.


I'm even more hyped to get this great case now!
<3 !


----------



## PureBlackFire

great. glad I could help.


----------



## Scotty99

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BaSkA*
> 
> Cool... I will buy rubber grommets/stands for the three included fans, then!
> Oh, okay. I won't have to buy another one then, thank you!
> This is awesome!!!!!! Thank you very much, I'm so happy I'll be able to remove both HDD cages! I had never seen this kind of adapter! This is extremely great news.
> All right! *Already have magnet filters for the PCI slots so, thanks*.
> I don't plan on water cooling so I'm glad to hear that all the issues you could find were "related" to that!
> I'm even more hyped to get this great case now!
> <3 !


Mind posting a link where you got those from? I went to demciflex's website but only the primo is on there, i suppose you could just measure the spots and have them make it tho (more expensive i imagine).

Here is the website in case you havent heard of them:
http://www.demcifilter.com/


----------



## dand070

Was looking at the Luxe case and was wondering if anyone know if you could fit 5 HDDs with a 360 and 240 rad. If so, any idea where you could mount a 100 tub with EK top D5? I'm trying to visualize but it seems difficult without actually having the case to look at in person.


----------



## WHIMington

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PureBlackFire*
> 
> the only complaints I can think of are the lack of 280 rad support in front and bottom. especially the bottom as I easily mounted one of their included 140mm fans in the front most position in the bottom. not having screw holes for it makes no sense to me as I cannot find a single conflict or restriction in it. also, the tube res mounting is a bit limited with the default options. the location next to the pci-e slots will be limited to shorter ones, not exceeding ~60mm thick (the first one I wanted to buy is 75mm thick). the location by the drive bays will be useless if you have a gpu longer than 11.5 inches (won't be an issue when water cooling gpu, but i left my giant cooler on it). beyond those I'm satisfied.


Speaking of complaints about the front and bottom intakes, I think they also make the 120 fan slots too short, I mount a 240 rad at the bottom and you can see how little space there is for the PSU + modular cables to fit in while at the front there is a large space if you choose not to fit a fan there, a waste of space IMO.


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WHIMington*
> 
> Speaking of complaints about the front and bottom intakes, I think they also make the 120 fan slots too short, I mount a 240 rad at the bottom and you can see how little space there is for the PSU + modular cables to fit in while at the front there is a large space if you choose not to fit a fan there, a waste of space IMO.


yes, they need a revision to correct the botom fan mounting.


----------



## bond32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WHIMington*
> 
> Speaking of complaints about the front and bottom intakes, I think they also make the 120 fan slots too short, I mount a 240 rad at the bottom and you can see how little space there is for the PSU + modular cables to fit in while at the front there is a large space if you choose not to fit a fan there, a waste of space IMO.


Do like I did, cut 2 holes to route tubing through the bottom of the case and mount the radiator itself on the underside, fans go on the topside. Don't get much airflow though


----------



## BaSkA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scotty99*
> 
> Mind posting a link where you got those from? I went to demciflex's website but only the primo is on there, i suppose you could just measure the spots and have them make it tho (more expensive i imagine).
> 
> Here is the website in case you havent heard of them:
> http://www.demcifilter.com/


I am, indeed, going to make the ghetto filters on my own.
I already have the air/dust filter/mesh (looks like the ones from demcifilter, but mine's probably worse) and I have a lot of that thin rubber magnet (I don't know hot to call it - those you see on the back of fridge magnetic ads), so I can cut it the size needed, which I will only know once I buy the case.
To be honest, in my home country curreny, it was actually cheap. I have a lot of the raw materials that cost me less than 25$(converting) and I can probably make four or five 140mm square fan filters, not expensive at all and fun to do!

I was going to buy this or this but then I decided to make my own ghetto filter and I think it's going to be better as it will fit perfectly.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dand070*
> 
> Was looking at the Luxe case and was wondering if anyone know if you could fit 5 HDDs with a 360 and 240 rad. If so, any idea where you could mount a 100 tub with EK top D5? I'm trying to visualize but it seems difficult without actually having the case to look at in person.


I believe you might be able to put all that inside the Luxe if you put 2 HDDs on the optical bay area using this. Then you can remove the bottom cage and try to fit one rad there!
I do not own the Luxe (yet) though but I'm just trying to help!

ON-TOPIC:

I just heard the top mesh of the Luxe has a bady dust/air filter. Is that true? I thought the top had a filter as good as the front/bottom or the Enthoo Pro top filter! I'm hoping it's not true


----------



## Scotty99

Hmmm where did you hear the luxe has a worse top filter than the pro? From watching reviews they look similar in filter density just that the luxe is easier to remove?


----------



## BaSkA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scotty99*
> 
> Hmmm where did you hear the luxe has a worse top filter than the pro? From watching reviews they look similar in filter density just that the luxe is easier to remove?


I know right! I also thought that it was better or, at least, as good as the top filter in the Enthoo Pro but... here's what/where I heard: https://pcpartpicker.com/b/dLsJ7P
Last comments it was me asking the owner for any dust problems and he mentioned the top filter. Anyway, you can always make a ghetto filter!


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

That person is just wrong. The top of the Luxe has a mesh grill AND filter material. It's the _exact_ 



 it's easily removable just like in the Primo, whereas with the Pro you'd have to bend the tabs to remove it / replace it and you wouldn't be able to do that without removing any rads/fans first.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BaSkA*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Scotty99*
> 
> Hmmm where did you hear the luxe has a worse top filter than the pro? From watching reviews they look similar in filter density just that the luxe is easier to remove?
> 
> 
> 
> I know right! I also thought that it was better or, at least, as good as the top filter in the Enthoo Pro but... here's what/where I heard: https://pcpartpicker.com/b/dLsJ7P
> Last comments it was me asking the owner for any dust problems and he mentioned the top filter. Anyway, you can always make a ghetto filter!
Click to expand...

If you look closely I'm sure you will find there is a fine mesh under the round hole grill. It is similar to insect mesh in tents. sheer curtains or fine window screen.


----------



## BaSkA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> If you look closely I'm sure you will find there is a fine mesh under the round hole grill. It is similar to insect mesh in tents. sheer curtains or fine window screen.


I don't really care because it's going to be an exhaust and, as I said, a ghetto filter is easily installed there.

This is a picture of the Pro, probably similar to the Luxe. No filters there, I believe:



As you said, there might be the fine mesh.

Maybe some Luxe owner will enlight me!

From this video, I guess it does really have it, haha, who knows!


----------



## Luby521

Hi guys,

I really want a white Primo, but I have a 290s CF setup with 3 slot spacing, so the res bracket cant be used. I wonder if I can buy the bracket from the Luxe and mount it on the top 3.5"drive bay of the Primo?

Also, can I use the Alphacool 240 XT45 ( push only) at the front and the top 3.5" drive bay at the same time or I have to buy a thinner 240 rad? It's really hard to tell by just looking at the pics









Thanks in advance.


----------



## TNortham112

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Luby521*
> 
> Hi guys,
> 
> I really want a white Primo, but I have a 290s CF setup with 3 slot spacing, so the res bracket cant be used. I wonder if I can buy the bracket from the Luxe and mount it on the top 3.5"drive bay of the Primo?
> 
> Also, can I use the Alphacool 240 XT45 ( push only) at the front and the top 3.5" drive bay at the same time or I have to buy a thinner 240 rad? It's really hard to tell by just looking at the pics
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks in advance.


Rad information is on the first page:

What is the max clearance for installing a radiator in the front with the HDD cages in place?
- You have 45mm of space before you will hit the HDD cages. A XT 45 will fit, but it will be a very close fit, you can expect the HDD cage to rub a little against the rad.

Can I install a 240mm radiator in the front with both the drive cages in place?
- Yes, you can, but one issue you will run into is routing the tubes. The only way to do that would be is to remove the bottom HDD cage mount (held in place with 2 thumb screws). Once that is removed you get about 1.25" of space opened up at the bottom. The drive cages would have to be hung from the top and you can route your tubing from the bottom of both the drive cages.


----------



## rh pc

*Clearance Enthoo Luxe*

Graphic card
347mm

338mm minus reservoir diameter (reservoir bracket installed)

472mm (without HDD Cages)
CPU cooler
193mm
Cable management
27mm (39mm at PSU area)
Radiator (Top)
*65mm to Motherboard*

65mm total clearance that means only 40mm thick radiators will work on top when using 25mm fans?


----------



## tolis626

Hey guys, problem here on my Primo.

I just realized that the bottom LED strip on the front doesn't light up. This might have happened days ago without me knowing, because I'm facing the side of the case. But I think it happened today. Strictly speaking, it's not a big issue, but I liked the blue LEDs and it's as if something is missing. The upper strip lights up just fine, as does the power button. Only thing I can think about is that, if it didn't just get fried (Could this even happen so quickly?), some cable could have gotten stripped when my father tried to lift the case grabbing it from the bottom front and the whole front panel started popping off (just the bottom of it). But that was 5 days ago, I think I'd have noticed. Not only that, but I removed the front panel again just now to see if any cable got cut or anything and both the black and red cables that lead to the LED strip seem fine.

Any ideas about what I could do? I mean, I'm not even comfortable with changing the damn LEDs, because I'm afraid that I'll break the plastic cover, which I don't know if Phanteks can replace. Or should I contact Phanteks support and see if they can offer a solution?

I'm kinda depressed now... Yes, over an LED strip.


----------



## MrGrievous

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BaSkA*
> 
> I don't really care because it's going to be an exhaust and, as I said, a ghetto filter is easily installed there.
> 
> This is a picture of the Pro, probably similar to the Luxe. No filters there, I believe:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you said, there might be the fine mesh.
> 
> Maybe some Luxe owner will enlight me!
> 
> From this video, I guess it does really have it, haha, who knows!


Maybe this pic can help some


----------



## BaSkA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tolis626*
> 
> Hey guys, problem here on my Primo.
> 
> I just realized that the bottom LED strip on the front doesn't light up. This might have happened days ago without me knowing, because I'm facing the side of the case. But I think it happened today. Strictly speaking, it's not a big issue, but I liked the blue LEDs and it's as if something is missing. The upper strip lights up just fine, as does the power button. Only thing I can think about is that, if it didn't just get fried (Could this even happen so quickly?), some cable could have gotten stripped when my father tried to lift the case grabbing it from the bottom front and the whole front panel started popping off (just the bottom of it). But that was 5 days ago, I think I'd have noticed. Not only that, but I removed the front panel again just now to see if any cable got cut or anything and both the black and red cables that lead to the LED strip seem fine.
> 
> Any ideas about what I could do? I mean, I'm not even comfortable with changing the damn LEDs, because I'm afraid that I'll break the plastic cover, which I don't know if Phanteks can replace. Or should I contact Phanteks support and see if they can offer a solution?
> 
> I'm kinda depressed now... Yes, over an LED strip.


I would contact Phanteks and see what they have to say(might take a few weeks from what I've heard). If there's no response, there might not be any warranty so just try to take out the "burnt"(?) LED strip!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrGrievous*
> 
> Maybe this pic can help some


You sir, are a kind specimen!

So the Luxe has the dust/air filter on the top, which should be used as an exhaust most of the time anyways.

So I'll just have to make a ghetto filter for the rear, I'm fine with that!


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rh pc*
> 
> *Clearance Enthoo Luxe*
> 
> Graphic card
> 347mm
> 
> 338mm minus reservoir diameter (reservoir bracket installed)
> 
> 472mm (without HDD Cages)
> CPU cooler
> 193mm
> Cable management
> 27mm (39mm at PSU area)
> Radiator (Top)
> *65mm to Motherboard*
> 
> 65mm total clearance that means only 40mm thick radiators will work on top when using 25mm fans?


Both the Pro and the Luxe have 65mm from top of mobo to top of the case body, but unlike the Pro with the Luxe there is also room on top of the case under the filter cover for a set of fans (just like with the Primo). Sooo, with the Pro you are limited to a max 40mm thick rad with one set of fans. With the Luxe you can have a rad up to 65mm thick with one set of fans on top, or a rad up to 40mm thick with fans on top and bottom in push-pull.

edit: see here:


----------



## Rahldrac

Hey. I was wondering about buying the Luxe case since it looks so nice! (Since the Mini XL will not be released soon it seems).

So my initial thought was to cool the CPU with a Cooler Master 280L, But people have pointed out that if I will only do a modest overclock (4790k) I will get the same performance with lower noise if I buy a PHANTEKS PH-TC14PE (RED), which will look good with my ROG Hero and Red memory sticks.
I will also put in two R290 (Probably TRI OC).

The thing is, do I really need such a big case for this? Will I get any good cooling effect from having 2-3 140mm fans up top without the radiator? Or will it only disrupt air flow and cause noise? Would have been nice to fill the case with fans and have them on low to have little noise.


----------



## rh pc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Both the Pro and the Luxe have 65mm from top of mobo to top of the case body, but unlike the Pro with the Luxe there is also room on top of the case under the filter cover for a set of fans (just like with the Primo). Sooo, with the Pro you are limited to a max 40mm thick rad with one set of fans. With the Luxe you can have a rad up to 65mm thick with one set of fans on top, or a rad up to 40mm thick with fans on top and bottom in push-pull.
> 
> edit: see here:


Excellent!


----------



## semitope

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Both the Pro and the Luxe have 65mm from top of mobo to top of the case body, but unlike the Pro with the Luxe there is also room on top of the case under the filter cover for a set of fans (just like with the Primo). Sooo, with the Pro you are limited to a max 40mm thick rad with one set of fans. With the Luxe you can have a rad up to 65mm thick with one set of fans on top, or a rad up to 40mm thick with fans on top and bottom in push-pull.
> 
> edit: see here:


seems like you could remove the top mesh and add more fans for the pro. Not so pretty, but possible. One could make something to cover it up too.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *semitope*
> 
> seems like you could remove the top mesh and add more fans for the pro. Not so pretty, but possible. One could make something to cover it up too.


Yeah you could, I think that's what DaveLT said he did with his Pro, but if you're going to do all that might as well spend a bit more and get the Luxe instead.


----------



## BaSkA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rahldrac*
> 
> Hey. I was wondering about buying the Luxe case since it looks so nice! (Since the Mini XL will not be released soon it seems).
> 
> So my initial thought was to cool the CPU with a Cooler Master 280L, But people have pointed out that if I will only do a modest overclock (4790k) I will get the same performance with lower noise if I buy a PHANTEKS PH-TC14PE (RED), which will look good with my ROG Hero and Red memory sticks.
> I will also put in two R290 (Probably TRI OC).
> 
> The thing is, do I really need such a big case for this? Will I get any good cooling effect from having 2-3 140mm fans up top without the radiator? Or will it only disrupt air flow and cause noise? Would have been nice to fill the case with fans and have them on low to have little noise.


I believe the Luxe or the Pro would be a good choice. They're not that gigantic and will help keeping dust out because of so many filters and will help out with cable management. I also think that the airflow is really good because you have so many spots to mount fans at.

If you want a lot of fans running slowly, you could put 2x140mm in the front(intake), 2x120mm in the hard drive cages(helping the front intake), 1x140mm or 1x120mm on the bottom(intake) and use the rear and top as exhaust. Then you can still get positive pressure because you can fit 4x120mm or 4x140mm if you sum up rear+top fan spots.

I believe you'll have a good airflow in the case but, if you get some quiet fans, you don't even need them to run that slowly... Also, be sure to use rubber grommets/stands to keep noise at a minimum.


----------



## Rahldrac

I will only be using one 1TB ssd drive that I got cheap. So I do not really need the hard drive cage. So what is best? No hard drive cage, or extra 120 fans on them ?
The bottom fans spots are unfortunately quite blocked by the PSU shroud, so I do not know how good they would be?
Heard a lot of good stuff about Phanteks own 140mm fans.


----------



## BaSkA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rahldrac*
> 
> I will only be using one 1TB ssd drive that I got cheap. So I do not really need the hard drive cage. So what is best? No hard drive cage, or extra 120 fans on them ?
> The bottom fans spots are unfortunately quite blocked by the PSU shroud, so I do not know how good they would be?
> Heard a lot of good stuff about Phanteks own 140mm fans.


A fellow friend from the forum showed me this. With that, you can mount up to 2 HDDs in the Luxe and I believe 3 HDDs in the Pro on the optical bay area. With that, you can remove both HDD cages and don't have 2x120mm or leave the cages without the tooless mounting brackets there and have the 2x120mm fans installed!

And yes, these guys are amazingly quiet and perform similar to Noctuas, I believe.
They come with a ton of accessories and are only 12$ at Newegg right now.


----------



## rpjkw11

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rahldrac*
> 
> I will only be using one 1TB ssd drive that I got cheap. So I do not really need the hard drive cage. So what is best? No hard drive cage, or extra 120 fans on them ?
> The bottom fans spots are unfortunately quite blocked by the PSU shroud, so I do not know how good they would be?
> Heard a lot of good stuff about Phanteks own 140mm fans.


I have two Primos and I mounted my SSDs behind the mobo using brackets I ordered from Phanteks because I have three SSDs. Heat, of course, has not been a problem and cable management is/was a dream. My sole HDD is mounted, using another bracket, in the lower 5 1/4 drive bay without any heat issues. I like the idea of as unrestricted air flow as possible.


----------



## Rahldrac

As mentioned I will install the SSD behind the motherboard. And I really do not see a need for more space than 1 TB (Stream most shows and movies, and rarely watch things twice).
Can't really find the XP fans in EU, so I guess i will be going with the HP ones.
I too like the Idea of unrestricted airflow. Which is why I love the new Phanteks Mini XL.


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BaSkA*
> 
> A fellow friend from the forum showed me this. With that, you can mount up to 2 HDDs in the Luxe and I believe 3 HDDs in the Pro on the optical bay area. With that, you can remove both HDD cages and don't have 2x120mm or leave the cages without the tooless mounting brackets there and have the 2x120mm fans installed!
> 
> And yes, these guys are amazingly quiet and perform similar to Noctuas, I believe.
> They come with a ton of accessories and are only 12$ at Newegg right now.


Any chance you could provide a picture of the two 120mm fans being mounted with the HDD Cages removed in the Pro please?


----------



## BaSkA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> Any chance you could provide a picture of the two 120mm fans being mounted with the HDD Cages removed in the Pro please?


I believe you can't have two 120mm fans mounted with the HDD Cages removed. What you could do, instead, is remove the HDD mounts, those tolles 3.5 and 2.5 "drawers" where you attach them. You still block some of the airflow from the front fan, though.


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BaSkA*
> 
> I believe you can't have two 120mm fans mounted with the HDD Cages removed. What you could do, instead, is remove the HDD mounts, those tolles 3.5 and 2.5 "drawers" where you attach them. You still block some of the airflow from the front fan, though.


Ahh ok, gotcha. I misunderstood your original comment. I have two 120mm fans attached to the HDD cages right now, and I like it like that. I wish there was an option or an add-on piece or pieces that Phanteks would sell that allows you to mount two 120mm fans without the HDD cages installed.


----------



## BaSkA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> Ahh ok, gotcha. I misunderstood your original comment. I have two 120mm fans attached to the HDD cages right now, and I like it like that. I wish there was an option or an add-on piece or pieces that Phanteks would sell that allows you to mount two 120mm fans without the HDD cages installed.


It's probably possible to try something ghetto and possibly install one 120mm or 140mm fan but you'd definitely have to drill some holes!


----------



## CerealKillah

I am happy to say I ordered an Enthoo Pro from Newegg.

While I love my NZXT Phantom, I am have a hunch that this case will be MUCH easier to setup my water cooling loop in.


----------



## icecpu

How come this case doesn't have small speaker that you plug in the motherboard header ? I check the manual they don't come with it. I check my motherboard asus x99 deluxe they don't come with it either. Usually it come with the case


----------



## Scotty99

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *icecpu*
> 
> How come this case doesn't have small speaker that you plug in the motherboard header ? I check the manual they don't come with it. I check my motherboard asus x99 deluxe they don't come with it either. Usually it come with the case


No they dont "usually" come with the case, not for many many years. You can buy them seperate for like 3 bucks if it really bothers you lol (i personally hate motherboard speakers, they are just annoying and provide little benefit, if any).


----------



## Accursed Entity

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *icecpu*
> 
> How come this case doesn't have small speaker that you plug in the motherboard header ? I check the manual they don't come with it. I check my motherboard asus x99 deluxe they don't come with it either. Usually it come with the case


Oh the memories... I hated those sounds though. I think the EVGA Z97 Classified is one of the few mobos that comes with a speaker, haven't seen a case with speakers for years.


----------



## MrGrievous

It is complete


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *icecpu*
> 
> How come this case doesn't have small speaker that you plug in the motherboard header ? I check the manual they don't come with it. I check my motherboard asus x99 deluxe they don't come with it either. Usually it come with the case


Most new mobos, at least if they are any good, don't have a need for it anymore. The diagnostic LED on the ASUS X99 Deluxe replaces the need for a POST beep code speaker, and provides you with a LOT better functionality.


----------



## BaSkA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrGrievous*
> 
> It is complete


Looks GOOD! Congrats!


----------



## jovkniemozna

hi guys







finally i'm done
do you like the reservoir/pump position?











i don't know how control the fan rpm's the circuit doesn't control the rpms, just only runs at 100%


----------



## reklaw75

Hi guys,

Thought I'd post up my new Phantek's Enthoo Primo build. I really love this case.
Previously had a Corsair 650D, 760T and 900D and this has been my favourite to put watercooling bits into. So many options and ways to put things in.
I ran into clearance issues with my bottom XSPC AX 480 rad and was about to start filing / grinding the width back so it would fit, only to find the Primo even let me
take off the side of the 5.25 bays without any hard mods







I'm going to put a couple of 120mm XSPC RX v3 into the rear top (near cpu) and another 120mm into the front (with the 480 in the bottom won't have enough room for more than that). Will also be changing the AX 480's over to 2 x RX 480 v3's instead. That will mean a total of 480/480/240/120/120 1440mm x 45mm of RX v3 rads, should keep the fan speeds nice and low











Bruce


----------



## BaSkA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jovkniemozna*
> 
> hi guys
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> finally i'm done
> do you like the reservoir/pump position?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i don't know how control the fan rpm's the circuit doesn't control the rpms, just only runs at 100%


Damn, that GPU sag is so sad! I hate when it happens! Also, that tubing that comes from the resevoir could be a little higher, looks like it's touching the backplate









Is that the Pro? The build looks amazing, and I'm also gonna get that mo-bo but I think I'll be installing those 50mm fans...

To control the RPMs I believe you must use the PWM controller on the CPU header... doesn't the MARK 1 have two CPU fan headers?


----------



## PeterWar

Hello,

I'm buying a phantkes enthoo luxe case and I plan to install a 420mm radiator on top to be used with low RPM fans.

Do you guys know if the Alphacool 420 Monsta would fit in the top of the case?


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PeterWar*
> 
> Hello,
> 
> I'm buying a phantkes enthoo luxe case and I plan to install a 420mm radiator on top to be used with low RPM fans.
> 
> Do you guys know if the Alphacool 420 Monsta would fit in the top of the case?


it will not.


----------



## Fickle Pickle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PeterWar*
> 
> Hello,
> 
> I'm buying a phantkes enthoo luxe case and I plan to install a 420mm radiator on top to be used with low RPM fans.
> 
> Do you guys know if the Alphacool 420 Monsta would fit in the top of the case?


I don't think so. My Luxe has an EX360 with with push-pull gentle typhoons on top and it just barely clears my mobo heat sink. The little compartment below the mesh can fit 25mm fans only. Underneath that compartment, you have probably 35mm + 25mm clearance. 60-65mm total clearance which eliminates any possibility of a monsta. Just go with a thinner 35-40mm rad and do push pull, that will outperform a thicker rad anyway.


----------



## PeterWar

And how about the NexXxoS UT60 or the XT45?

Would I be able to run this on a push pull configuration?

My goal is to get the max cooling with the minimum noise possible.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PeterWar*
> 
> And how about the NexXxoS UT60 or the XT45?
> 
> Would I be able to run this on a push pull configuration?
> 
> My goal is to get the max cooling with the minimum noise possible.


There is not room for push pull with either of those rads in the Luxe. There is only 65mm of space between the top of the mobo and the top case panel, with room above that for a set of fans under the filter cover. Soooo, you can fit a 45mm or 65mm rad with just one set of fans up top, but if you want fans on top and bottom in push pull the max rad width is 40mm.


----------



## PeterWar

Thank you for the fast and thorought reply, as my store only carries Alphacool rads I guess I have two options avaliable:

1- Use the Alphacool NexXxoS ST30 Full Copper 420mm Radiator with low CFM push/pull fans.
2- Use the Alphacool NexXxoS XT45 with low CFM push fans.

What would be your advice? Also, could you please suggest low noise fans? EDIT: What are the 140mm fans that come included with the case?

Thx!


----------



## Steve2000

I just got my Enthoo Luxe case. Slight problem: no manual of any kind was included in the box/case.







Does anybody have a pdf manual or know where I can get one? I can't find one on their website. I've been unable to get ahold of them (likely due to holiday) so far. Failing that, can somebody at least tell me how to get the PSU cover off so I can install that? (The rest of my parts are in transit)

Thanks for any help in advance

Steve


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Steve2000*
> 
> I just got my Enthoo Luxe case. Slight problem: no manual of any kind was included in the box/case.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Does anybody have a pdf manual or know where I can get one? I can't find one on their website. I've been unable to get ahold of them (likely due to holiday) so far. Failing that, can somebody at least tell me how to get the PSU cover off so I can install that? (The rest of my parts are in transit)
> 
> Thanks for any help in advance
> 
> Steve


here is the manual for the Luxe. the psu cover is removed by removing three thumbscrews that can be found just above the indent on the rear of the motherboard tray.


----------



## bond32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PeterWar*
> 
> Thank you for the fast and thorought reply, as my store only carries Alphacool rads I guess I have two options avaliable:
> 
> 1- Use the Alphacool NexXxoS ST30 Full Copper 420mm Radiator with low CFM push/pull fans.
> 2- Use the Alphacool NexXxoS XT45 with low CFM push fans.
> 
> What would be your advice? Also, could you please suggest low noise fans? EDIT: What are the 140mm fans that come included with the case?
> 
> Thx!


Go with option 2, you don't need push pull with 30mm radiators.


----------



## MrGrievous

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> Go with option 2, you don't need push pull with 30mm radiators.


45mm with push is also pretty good, its what Im running

Anyhow I had a bit of a dilema today, was meesing with the rig today and unplugged the 4pin cable from the CPU header leaving just the sata power connected. Once i finished messing around I turned on the rig and did not notice for the next 3 and a 1/2 hours







The fans even though connected to the sata power were not even spinning any. I thought the fans would run at max with just the 12V? But they weren't and the idle system temps got up to 54C


----------



## Scotty99

Man i cannot decide between the luxe and pro LOL.

Pro cons:
I would have to stuff the front intake with foam around edges so dust didnt get in.
Cant do push/pull radiator on top
Top filter is built into top panel so would be harder to clean
No LED's!

Pro Pro's (lol!):
I think the brushed plastic looks better and i want black, i think black pro looks better than the black luxe
Front panel is not connected to case with wires from LED's
Does not come with extra top 140mm fan i wouldnt use (getting a 360mm AIO rad for top)
50 bucks cheaper!

Luxe Pro's:
Pretty LED's with option of adding internal LED'S that match
Top dust filter is removable for easier cleaning.
Wouldnt have to stuff front intake

Luxe cons:
I would want to remove the panel covering the front intake for more airflow, but the plastic piece that it mounts too is not removable and would look bad!
Comes with extra fan i wouldnt need
Taller (my desk is only 28" tall so pro would have more room for air to escape)
50 bucks more! (its still not a bad value at 150 but i think pro is an ever better deal)

One day i want the luxe next day i decide on the pro haha.

Couple questions too if someone would oblige:
1. I have heard from video the front 200mm is noisy, i will be using an asus board with full DC fan control is it possible to turn it down a little and still get decent airflow? Or is it a better idea to throw in 2 120's or 2 140's? (suggestions on fans appreciated if so, quiet+good airflow a bonus).
2. How hard would it be to (properly) mount an SSD in the small side window above the phanteks logo? Would it be as simple as using a template to mark 4 holes that line up to the rear 4 screw holes of an SSD and just drill? Then how about the cables, should i mount SSD sideways so the cables are hidden for the most part (route cables so they come in by the front being covered mostly).

I like to plan out my build in my head first as you can see lol.


----------



## Fickle Pickle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scotty99*
> 
> Man i cannot decide between the luxe and pro LOL.
> 
> Pro cons:
> I would have to stuff the front intake with foam around edges so dust didnt get in.
> Cant do push/pull radiator on top
> Top filter is built into top panel so would be harder to clean
> No LED's!
> 
> Pro Pro's (lol!):
> I think the brushed plastic looks better and i want black, i think black pro looks better than the black luxe
> Front panel is not connected to case with wires from LED's
> Does not come with extra top 140mm fan i wouldnt use (getting a 360mm AIO rad for top)
> 50 bucks cheaper!
> 
> Luxe Pro's:
> Pretty LED's with option of adding internal LED'S that match
> Top dust filter is removable for easier cleaning.
> Wouldnt have to stuff front intake
> 
> Luxe cons:
> I would want to remove the panel covering the front intake for more airflow, but the plastic piece that it mounts too is not removable and would look bad!
> Comes with extra fan i wouldnt need
> Taller (my desk is only 28" tall so pro would have more room for air to escape)
> 50 bucks more! (its still not a bad value at 150 but i think pro is an ever better deal)
> 
> One day i want the luxe next day i decide on the pro haha.
> 
> Couple questions too if someone would oblige:
> 1. I have heard from video the front 200mm is noisy, i will be using an asus board with full DC fan control is it possible to turn it down a little and still get decent airflow? Or is it a better idea to throw in 2 120's or 2 140's? (suggestions on fans appreciated if so, quiet+good airflow a bonus).
> 2. How hard would it be to (properly) mount an SSD in the small side window above the phanteks logo? Would it be as simple as using a template to mark 4 holes that line up to the rear 4 screw holes of an SSD and just drill? Then how about the cables, should i mount SSD sideways so the cables are hidden for the most part (route cables so they come in by the front being covered mostly).
> 
> I like to plan out my build in my head first as you can see lol.


Like anything in life, pay a bit more upfront and get the best within your price range. Otherwise, you end spending more in the long run. $50.00 ain't much anyway. I have built a system in the Pro for a friend and one in the Luxe for myself. The extra room up top really does make a huge difference for watercooling along with the removable panel. The extra room gives you the option to do push pull or use a radiator up to 60mm. Also, the sandblasted aluminum just feels nicer.

As for the fan, just get fan controller and hook up all of your fans.


----------



## Scotty99

The asus motherboards have full PWM and DC fan control, i will not be using the included hub. I was just wondering if it still has decent airflow if i turned it down a couple hundred RPM.

Either way not a huge deal if its loud ill just get some good 120's or 140's lol

Thx for reply, just wish the darn front panel was better designed on the luxe so i could remove the cover and not have that piece of plastic showing lol (this is my biggest con for luxe)


----------



## MrGrievous

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scotty99*
> 
> The asus motherboards have full PWM and DC fan control, i will not be using the included hub. I was just wondering if it still has decent airflow if i turned it down a couple hundred RPM.
> 
> Either way not a huge deal if its loud ill just get some good 120's or 140's lol
> 
> Thx for reply, just wish the darn front panel was better designed on the luxe so i could remove the cover and not have that piece of plastic showing lol (this is my biggest con for luxe)


Yes it's huge con for you, me and I'm sure many others. You could use the hub actually to run you fans with only the 4pin cable hooking up to your mobo so it gets the control from the program while offering a great way to split the fan channels. I currently have my one fan hub with 4 140mm SP fan treks and the one 200mm SP fan that came with my case all powered by just the one fan header. IMHO theses Phanteks fans are really good, the company knows fans as they built coolers before they decided to build cases as well,

I'm pleased with my fans as they offer a good balance of performance and silence at 850rpm which is what I mostly have them at. However the fans, like most, are noisy at full rpm but not terribly though.


----------



## Scotty99

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrGrievous*
> 
> *Yes it's huge con for you, me and I'm sure many others.* You could use the hub actually to run you fans with only the 4pin cable hooking up to your mobo so it gets the control from the program while offering a great way to split the fan channels. I currently have my one fan hub with 4 140mm SP fan treks and the one 200mm SP fan that came with my case all powered by just the one fan header. IMHO theses Phanteks fans are really good, the company knows fans as they built coolers before they decided to build cases as well,
> 
> I'm pleased with my fans as they offer a good balance of performance and silence at 850rpm which is what I mostly have them at. However the fans, like most, are noisy at full rpm but not terribly though.


Sorry but the bolded part, were you talking about the front panel on the luxe? And ya i may use the hub if i need it but asus boards have full fan control from 0-max rpm i really see no need for the hub unless you have like 20 fans in your system lol.


----------



## HiTechPixel

I'm getting the Phanteks Enthoo Pro (not windowed) and I just realized I can only mount one SSD behind the motherboard. I have two SSDs so where should I mount the other? Does Phanteks send you another one if I ask their support?

P.S I will be removing all HDD cages and the optical drive bay.


----------



## WHIMington

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HiTechPixel*
> 
> I'm getting the Phanteks Enthoo Pro (not windowed) and I just realized I can only mount one SSD behind the motherboard. I have two SSDs so where should I mount the other? Does Phanteks send you another one if I ask their support?
> 
> P.S I will be removing all HDD cages and the optical drive bay.


You can buy extra SSD bracket online.


----------



## Scotty99

You may be able to buy one from them but dont quote me! If not you will just have to leave the lower HDD bay in or just buy some two sided tape or use some velcro.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HiTechPixel*
> 
> I'm getting the Phanteks Enthoo Pro (not windowed) and I just realized I can only mount one SSD behind the motherboard. I have two SSDs so where should I mount the other? Does Phanteks send you another one if I ask their support?
> 
> P.S I will be removing all HDD cages and the optical drive bay.


The Pro comes with one bracket but has two mounting locations. Phanteks sells additional brackets separately.

http://www.techpowerup.com/reviews/Phanteks/Enthoo_Pro/4.html


----------



## HiTechPixel

A bit pissed they don't include both since they have two areas where you can place it but whatever. It'll set me back 10 euros.


----------



## Scotty99

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HiTechPixel*
> 
> A bit pissed they don't include both since they have two areas where you can place it but whatever. It'll set me back 10 euros.


Come on dude lol. I dont think you understand how much case this is for 100 bucks, it honestly wouldnt surprise me if they are losing money on this case.


----------



## fateswarm

(*Pro*)

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scotty99*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *HiTechPixel*
> 
> A bit pissed they don't include both since they have two areas where you can place it but whatever. It'll set me back 10 euros.
> 
> 
> 
> Come on dude lol. I dont think you understand how much case this is for 100 bucks, it honestly *wouldnt surprise me if they are losing money on this case.*
Click to expand...

lol yeah. I was thinking that. For promoting their new business.


----------



## HiTechPixel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scotty99*
> 
> Come on dude lol. I dont think you understand how much case this is for 100 bucks, it honestly wouldnt surprise me if they are losing money on this case.


Then why not include two brackets and add 10 bucks to the price?


----------



## Scotty99

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HiTechPixel*
> 
> Then why not include two brackets and add 10 bucks to the price?


The better question would be why didnt you do your research before you bought the case?


----------



## HiTechPixel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scotty99*
> 
> The better question would be why didnt you do your research before you bought the case?


I'll just ignore you from now on, considering you're rude and snark as hell.


----------



## Scotty99

I actually dont consider my reply rude at all. The case is an outstanding deal at 100 bucks, they had to cut corners somewhere and in fact im surprised they didnt cut more corners. Sure they could have raised the price and added more stuff but they decided on a 99.00 msrp and fit as much as they could in that budget, it really is your fault for not researching fully on what it included.


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scotty99*
> 
> I actually dont consider my reply rude at all. The case is an outstanding deal at 100 bucks, they had to cut corners somewhere and in fact im surprised they didnt cut more corners. Sure they could have raised the price and added more stuff but they decided on a 99.00 msrp and fit as much as they could in that budget, it really is your fault for not researching fully on what it included.


agreed. there are cases that you can buy at $100-$120 with 2 SSD brackets. of course those are smaller mid towers. really, the case has something like 8 fan mount locations too. should it have come with 8 fans?


----------



## MrGrievous

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scotty99*
> 
> Sorry but the bolded part, were you talking about the front panel on the luxe? And ya i may use the hub if i need it but asus boards have full fan control from 0-max rpm i really see no need for the hub unless you have like 20 fans in your system lol.


Sorry, Yes I meant the front panel on the Luxe


----------



## TallGray

man I really wish they had not combined 3 different cases into one thread. It has become essentially a useless mess of confusion for me.


----------



## Dorito Bandit

*Enthoo Pro*
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scotty99*
> 
> Man i cannot decide between the luxe and pro LOL.
> 
> Pro cons:
> I would have to stuff the front intake with foam around edges so dust didnt get in.
> Cant do push/pull radiator on top
> Top filter is built into top panel so would be harder to clean
> No LED's!
> 
> Pro Pro's (lol!):
> I think the brushed plastic looks better and i want black, i think black pro looks better than the black luxe
> Front panel is not connected to case with wires from LED's
> Does not come with extra top 140mm fan i wouldnt use (getting a 360mm AIO rad for top)
> 50 bucks cheaper!
> 
> Luxe Pro's:
> Pretty LED's with option of adding internal LED'S that match
> Top dust filter is removable for easier cleaning.
> Wouldnt have to stuff front intake
> 
> Luxe cons:
> I would want to remove the panel covering the front intake for more airflow, but the plastic piece that it mounts too is not removable and would look bad!
> Comes with extra fan i wouldnt need
> Taller (my desk is only 28" tall so pro would have more room for air to escape)
> 50 bucks more! (its still not a bad value at 150 but i think pro is an ever better deal)
> 
> One day i want the luxe next day i decide on the pro haha.
> 
> Couple questions too if someone would oblige:
> 1. I have heard from video the front 200mm is noisy, i will be using an asus board with full DC fan control is it possible to turn it down a little and still get decent airflow? Or is it a better idea to throw in 2 120's or 2 140's? (suggestions on fans appreciated if so, quiet+good airflow a bonus).
> 2. How hard would it be to (properly) mount an SSD in the small side window above the phanteks logo? Would it be as simple as using a template to mark 4 holes that line up to the rear 4 screw holes of an SSD and just drill? Then how about the cables, should i mount SSD sideways so the cables are hidden for the most part (route cables so they come in by the front being covered mostly).
> 
> I like to plan out my build in my head first as you can see lol.


Look, I know it's a tough decision to make. They're both really nice cases and I am sure you'll be happy with either one, but it seems to me that your heart is leaning towards the Enthoo Pro. If you don't need the little bit of extra space on the luxe and can do without the pretty LEDs, then go for the Pro. You can always add some lighting to it if you wish. Plus, if you have limited desk space then the Pro may be the wiser choice. I also think the Pro looks much better in the front than the Luxe. I have the Pro and I love it! It's a beautiful case and you're not going to beat it for the price. If you buy it and you're unhappy with it for some reason, just return it or sell it. I truly believe that once you see this case in person you'll be glad you got it. It's awesome!

As for the having to add some foam to the front panel for dust protection, you may find that this is unnecessary to do. However, it's not a big deal if you decide to add foam there. This stuff can be found almost everywhere and it's very cheap.

Quit pulling your hair out over this and just go for the Pro.


----------



## Dorito Bandit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TallGray*
> 
> man I really wish they had not combined 3 different cases into one thread. It has become essentially a useless mess of confusion for me.


See my post about this here http://www.overclock.net/t/1418637/official-case-phanteks-club-enthoo-primo-enthoo-luxe-enthoo-pro-lovers-owners/4600_100#post_22576467 Some have been titling their posts and this can be a big help in finding the information you are looking for. doyll has a nice thread going here, let's help keep it tidy!

Maybe it's time for another friendly reminder...

Title your posts, guys!!


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TallGray*
> 
> man I really wish they had not combined 3 different cases into one thread. It has become essentially a useless mess of confusion for me.


sorry about that. we all need to post which case we are talking about in the beginning of our posts. most case series all share one thread too. it can be made to work.


----------



## tolis626

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BaSkA*
> 
> I would contact Phanteks and see what they have to say(might take a few weeks from what I've heard). If there's no response, there might not be any warranty so just try to take out the "burnt"(?) LED strip!


A little maybe, but here goes.

I opened the case today to look at a maybe malfunctioning hard drive and it turns out that I had missed the connector of the front LED strip. To my defense, it's a very short cable that was tucked away behind and edge of the frame. Anyway, reconnected it and all is well, fortunately.

Thanks for the answer anyway pal!


----------



## TallGray

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PureBlackFire*
> 
> sorry about that. we all need to post which case we are talking about in the beginning of our posts. most case series all share one thread too. it can be made to work.


The question is why; I think at least the Primo is different enough to merit its own thread. I'm not so sure about the Luxe and the Pro because frankly I have no reason to really care enough to know a whole lot more than the fact that they look awesome. It was such a useful thread before and now we have to sort through posts about 2 other different cases. Its confusing and unnecessary. I don't see other case threads being grouped by manufacturer when they are this different. I would get it if they were the same size and the difference was maybe just LED colors or small updates, but its not the case.

Anyway, I'm new here and have no grounds to complain... I just cant be the only one feeling this way.


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Enthoo Pro Question:

I currently have a Seidon 240M on the top of my case with 2 fans totaling 52mm. I am wondering if I have enough room to do push/pull by adding 2 more fans for a total of 77mm. My motherboard is the Asus Z97-AR.

I know this is such a lazy post and I should just take a fan from elsewhere in my case and try to place it, but I just redid my entire case, cable management and all and closed it up and put it inside my desk. I am hoping that someone might be able to answer that question for me so that I won't have to tear it all down.

Anyone know if you can push/pull in the top of an Enthoo Pro with a 27mm radiator and 2 sets of 25mm fans? If not, anyone know of some good quality "slim" static pressure fans?


----------



## WhitePrQjser

Hey!

I was just about to order my watercooling components, but I suddenly got worried about space. I want a 240 rad at the top with 4x fans in push/pull, and a 120 rad in the back with 2x push/pull. Is that possible? Or is anything obstructing it?


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WhitePrQjser*
> 
> Hey!
> 
> I was just about to order my watercooling components, but I suddenly got worried about space. I want a 240 rad at the top with 4x fans in push/pull, and a 120 rad in the back with 2x push/pull. Is that possible? Or is anything obstructing it?


It is 100% possible if you buy the Luxe. I am trying to figure out if it is possible with the Pro.


----------



## PureBlackFire

as long as the rad is 30mm or thinner you can do push/pull in the Enthoo Pro. though ultimately it depends on your motherboard heatsinks. another slight complaint I have with these is the mounts are centered and offset mounts would significantly reduce conflicts like this.


----------



## WhitePrQjser

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> It is 100% possible if you buy the Luxe. I am trying to figure out if it is possible with the Pro.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PureBlackFire*
> 
> as long as the rad is 30mm or thinner you can do push/pull in the Enthoo Pro. though ultimately it depends on your motherboard heatsinks. another slight complaint I have with these is the mounts are centered and offset mounts would significantly reduce conflicts like this.


Top 240 radiator + fans in push/pull will get to be 85,5 mm. thick. The rear 120 mm. + fans in push/pull will be 80 mm. thick in total. I can't find any info on it anywhere. It's really annoying


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WhitePrQjser*
> 
> Top 240 radiator + fans in push/pull will get to be 85,5 mm. thick. The rear 120 mm. + fans in push/pull will be 80 mm. thick in total. I can't find any info on it anywhere. It's really annoying


http://forums.overclockers.co.uk/showthread.php?p=26614628

somebody's build log. shows that a 30mm thick rad is fine if you don't have tall vrm heatsinks. that's the only conflict area. there is slotted holes and plenty of space for the rear 120 with fans if you choose to go that route. looking at your motherboard and cpu, removing the vrm heatsink is not a good idea. maybe you should just pony up for the Luxe or 750D. more vertical clearance in those.


----------



## WhitePrQjser

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PureBlackFire*
> 
> http://forums.overclockers.co.uk/showthread.php?p=26614628
> 
> somebody's build log. shows that a 30mm thick rad is fine if you don't have tall vrm heatsinks. that's the only conflict area. there is slotted holes and plenty of space for the rear 120 with fans if you choose to go that route. looking at your motherboard and cpu, removing the vrm heatsink is not a good idea. maybe you should just pony up for the Luxe or 750D. more vertical clearance in those.


I already own the Pro, and I love it. I would rather compromise on the fan setup than the case itself. It could look like, I have enough clearance for my board. Of course, if I don't I'll just use a push configuration.


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PureBlackFire*
> 
> http://forums.overclockers.co.uk/showthread.php?p=26614628
> 
> somebody's build log. shows that a 30mm thick rad is fine if you don't have tall vrm heatsinks. that's the only conflict area. there is slotted holes and plenty of space for the rear 120 with fans if you choose to go that route. looking at your motherboard and cpu, removing the vrm heatsink is not a good idea. maybe you should just pony up for the Luxe or 750D. more vertical clearance in those.


The guy is using a single 30mm thick 120 Rad in push/pull and if you see, it BARELY fits. It is hitting the RAM lock mechanism. So.. push/pull with a 240 rad is going to be a no go.

I am looking into Push/Pull right now myself, but I have a similar problem. My 240 rad is 27mm thick, I already have some fans in push and my motherboard, the Z97-AR has some pretty tall heat sinks.

So, I am now wondering, what if I bought some 120mm "slim" fans. I know that their static pressure won't be any good, but they will be in Pull. Is it bad to mix and match two different fan types for a radiator that will be spinning at different RPMs? Will it have a negative impact on performance? Will it increase performance at all? Will it make a weird noise?

I also heard someone say that when doing push/pull that you want SP fans as push, and AF fans for pull, is that true?


----------



## PureBlackFire

you want SP fans on a rad or heatsink period.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Mixing fans on a rad is not a big deal provided the speeds are not wildly different from each other. Martin (of martinsliquidlabs) even encourages it. There's probably not a lot of performance to be gained from it, but I don't think there would be any problems adding a slim fan to go push-pull on a 27mm rad with a set of regular 25mm thick fans on the other side. I'm certain it wouldn't hurt performance.

The main thing is, I'm not sure there will be enough room in the Pro to do so. You only have 65mm of space. A 25mm thick fan and 27mm thick rad = 52mm, leaving you only 13mm left. Assuming the slim fan is 15mm, you'll be cutting it very close as to whether that 2mm of overhang would interfere with anything along the top of the mobo or not.

A better option for you might be to remove the filter on top and add a 25mm set of fans mounted to the top of the case. If you want the rad as intake then you would probably want to add some filtered grills to the top of them. If it's exhaust then perhaps some unfiltered fan grills or nothing at all.


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Mixing fans on a rad is not a big deal provided the speeds are not wildly different from each other. Martin (of martinsliquidlabs) even encourages it. There's probably not a lot of performance to be gained from it, but I don't think there would be any problems adding a slim fan to go push-pull on a 27mm rad with a set of regular 25mm thick fans on the other side. I'm certain it wouldn't hurt performance.
> 
> The main thing is, I'm not sure there will be enough room in the Pro to do so. You only have 65mm of space. A 25mm thick fan and 27mm thick rad = 52mm, leaving you only 13mm left. Assuming the slim fan is 15mm, you'll be cutting it very close as to whether that 2mm of overhang would interfere with anything along the top of the mobo or not.
> 
> A better option for you might be to remove the filter on top and add a 25mm set of fans mounted to the top of the case. If you want the rad as intake then you would probably want to add some filtered grills to the top of them. If it's exhaust then perhaps some unfiltered fan grills or nothing at all.


Very cool! I think I will try mixing fans. My top radiator is set to exhaust, so I think I will go ahead and remove the filter and add some fans up top. That link you sent me was great, I'm excited for this now. I would really like to drop my temps by another 2-3C.


----------



## bond32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> Very cool! I think I will try mixing fans. My top radiator is set to exhaust, so I think I will go ahead and remove the filter and add some fans up top. That link you sent me was great, I'm excited for this now. I would really like to drop my temps by another 2-3C.


All radiators need to be intake. They cannot transfer energy near as efficient if it goes from pulling 33 degree air as opposed to 25. ALWAYS have radiators as intake. If you find anyone that disagrees, it will be nothing short of laughable.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> All radiators need to be intake. They cannot transfer energy near as efficient if it goes from pulling 33 degree air as opposed to 25. ALWAYS have radiators as intake. If you find anyone that disagrees, it will be nothing short of laughable.


lol, it is generally better to have rads as intake, but it's not that big of a deal and sometimes it's better to have a rad as exhaust. For example, if you are only watercooling a CPU but have air cooled GPU(s), like when running an AIO, you are way better off to have the rad as exhaust so the heat from the rad doesn't adversely affect your GPU(s).

Even if you are water cooling the CPU and GPUs I seriously doubt it would make a huge difference in loop temps. I've run my rads both ways and the difference was negligible (+/- ~1-2C loop temps) which isn't surprising as with good case airflow I've never seen a difference of more than a few degrees C between the internal air in the case and ambient (room) temp, certainly not a difference of "_33 degree air as opposed to 25_". Mine's usually ~26-28C inside vs ~24-26C out.

Do you know of any testing done comparing running rads as intake vs exhaust where it did show a huge difference between them? I'd like to see it.

I usually do recommend rads as intake not just for the lower ambient air makes them _slightly_ more efficient, but also it makes it easier to have filtered positive air pressure to help with dust control.


----------



## AlwaysDIY

Just wanted to drop in on this thread and say HI. I just finished a build with an Enthoo Primo. I like a lot of the builds in this thread, thought I would share my own.

And to stay on topic, my rads are set up as intakes as well. I didn't do any testing, but I figured it would be better to pull fresh, ambient air over the rads than case air. Also, I did it for positive pressure.



More pics in the sig. Any questions or comments feel free to ask... I'm gonna browse all the other Primo builds in the mean time. So many to see!


----------



## Fickle Pickle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> All radiators need to be intake. They cannot transfer energy near as efficient if it goes from pulling 33 degree air as opposed to 25. ALWAYS have radiators as intake. If you find anyone that disagrees, it will be nothing short of laughable.


That is unless you've filled every fan mount with a rad, then some poor rad will have to act as an intake =). My Luxe has the top 360mm rad as an intake, the front 240mm rad as an intake,and the bottom 240mm rad as an intake. I had an extra 120mm rad from my last build laying around and I decided to say "MOAR RADS" and added that to the rear as an exhaust...just because. Not that efficient, but I have way way more radiators than I will ever need.


----------



## bond32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> lol, it is generally better to have rads as intake, but it's not that big of a deal and sometimes it's better to have a rad as exhaust. For example, if you are only watercooling a CPU but have air cooled GPU(s), like when running an AIO, you are way better off to have the rad as exhaust so the heat from the rad doesn't adversely affect your GPU(s).
> 
> Even if you are water cooling the CPU and GPUs I seriously doubt it would make a huge difference in loop temps. I've run my rads both ways and the difference was negligible (+/- ~1-2C loop temps) which isn't surprising as with good case airflow I've never seen a difference of more than a few degrees C between the internal air in the case and ambient (room) temp, certainly not a difference of "_33 degree air as opposed to 25_". Mine's usually ~26-28C inside vs ~24-26C out.
> 
> Do you know of any testing done comparing running rads as intake vs exhaust where it did show a huge difference between them? I'd like to see it.
> 
> I usually do recommend rads as intake not just for the lower ambient air makes them _slightly_ more efficient, but also it makes it easier to have filtered positive air pressure to help with dust control.


Lol, it doesn't need to be tested. If you want I can pull up the chapter 11 in my heat transfer book which discusses heat exchanger efficiency... These are heat exchangers. Larger delta T = higher efficiency. Higher efficiency = more watts moved.


----------



## WhitePrQjser

*Enthoo Pro*

So I just ordered my watercooling components, and I was wondering how to set it up.

_*Option 1*_

*Intake:* 200 mm. front intake fan + 120 mm. intake fan on HDD rack.
*Exhaust:* 120 rad rear + 240 rad top with fans as push.

_*Option 2*_

*Intake:* 120 rad rear + 240 rad top with fans as push.
*Exhaust:* 120 mm. rad on HDD cage front + 200 mm. fan front

Which would be better?


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> Lol, it doesn't need to be tested. If you want I can pull up the chapter 11 in my heat transfer book which discusses heat exchanger efficiency... These are heat exchangers. Larger delta T = higher efficiency. Higher efficiency = more watts moved.


Go check out the G10 Owners Club. The difference between switching from intake to exhaust is 2C at most, and as unicornhunter stated, sometimes it is better to have radiators as exhausts.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> Lol, it doesn't need to be tested. If you want I can pull up the chapter 11 in my heat transfer book which discusses heat exchanger efficiency... These are heat exchangers. Larger delta T = higher efficiency. Higher efficiency = more watts moved.


I've tried both ways in several cases now and never seen it make a big difference either way. I agree rads as intake perform a little better, but not anywhere near so much as to say something like this ...
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> All radiators need to be intake. They cannot transfer energy near as efficient if it goes from pulling 33 degree air as opposed to 25. ALWAYS have radiators as intake. If you find anyone that disagrees, it will be nothing short of laughable.


That comment is what is laughable. With all rads as exhaust you're never going to see that big of a difference between outside and and the inside of the case, as you will have all of the major sources of inside heat covered up with a waterblock and that heat going straight to the rad(s) instead of into the case air. I don't even think any of my air cooled systems have ever seen that large of a difference in inside/outside air temps.

LOTS of people prefer to have their rads as exhaust and it works just fine for them.

EDIT: If it ever made that much of a difference in loop temps surely someone would have done some tests to document it. Martin? Stren? GliderHR? Bundy? Anyone?


----------



## bond32

If you want to put your rads as exhaust then go for it. At least now you know (or you just ignored my comment) that the thermodynamics side would tell you to always bring cool air in a heat exchanger.

Yep you're right, don't ask me. Its not like I'm an actual engineer or anything.

Oh and you're on an Over clock site so yeah, 2 degrees is a considerable amount.


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Here is a picture of my case and the fan placement:

I keep my case inside my desk like this:


Everything is already in my case except for fan #10. I could add a 92mm Fan there to work as an exhaust especially if I do reverse the flow of my top fans from exhaust to intake.

Do you think it would make much sense to switch Fans #1,2 and 5? My temperatures are already exceptional. GPU never exceeds 49C and CPU never exceeds 50C during lengthy gaming sessions. GPU Radiator Fan speeds ~60%, CPU Fan Speeds ~50%. Both Pumps at ~85%.

There are people in the G10 Owner's Club who has much smaller, and much more cramped cases than mine with multi-GPU setups who were switching from intake to exhaust and they recorded zero difference in temperature.


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> If you want to put your rads as exhaust then go for it. At least now you know (or you just ignored my comment) that the thermodynamics side would tell you to always bring cool air in a heat exchanger.
> 
> Yep you're right, don't ask me. Its not like I'm an actual engineer or anything.
> 
> Oh and you're on an Over clock site so yeah, 2 degrees is a considerable amount.


Show us some definitive evidence of this. Not text books, not an engineering degree. Run the actual benchmark regarding this specific scenario. I understand that what you are saying in theory should be better, but I want to see hard proof of this.


----------



## bond32

Yes I would absolutely switch 1 and 2. 5 probably doesn't make much difference, but know that having a slightly positive pressure in the case will reduce dust by just a tiny bit.

As for the "results"? I'd take it with a grain of salt. Try for yourself, there are a lot of their factors at play here. I'm merely telling you from an engineering standpoint, always have intake fans. I have every fan in my case as intake except the rear fan... If I run the 5 radiator setup then I use every fan as intake. Difference being I can't use side panels with the 5 rad setup...


----------



## bond32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> Show us some definitive evidence of this. Not text books, not an engineering degree. Run the actual benchmark regarding this specific scenario. I understand that what you are saying in theory should be better, but I want to see hard proof of this.


That's like saying, hey I want to swap these Scythe Gentle Typhoon AP-15 fans that I run at 800 rpm with some off brand fan that no one knows and I want to see how different they perform. The difference will be there, although minimal. But surely you can agree, the ap-15's are proven to perform because they have the static pressure advantage.

Now when you run the AP-15's at 1800 rpm, compare them to others, they take off from any sort of competition.

I'm not sure what hard proof you want but again, do what you want.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> Here is a picture of my case and the fan placement:
> 
> I keep my case inside my desk like this:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Everything is already in my case except for fan #10. I could add a 92mm Fan there to work as an exhaust especially if I do reverse the flow of my top fans from exhaust to intake.
> 
> 
> Do you think it would make much sense to switch Fans #1,2 and 5? My temperatures are already exceptional. GPU never exceeds 49C and CPU never exceeds 50C during lengthy gaming sessions. GPU Radiator Fan speeds ~60%, CPU Fan Speeds ~50%. Both Pumps at ~85%.
> 
> There are people in the G10 Owner's Club who has much smaller, and much more cramped cases than mine with multi-GPU setups who were switching from intake to exhaust and they recorded zero difference in temperature.


The good news is ti's running nice and cool in spite of the mess that it is.








Where is the fans 5 & 6 are supposed to move coming from?
7 & 8 are only passing the air from 9.
0 is side intake?
1, 2, 3-4, & 10 exhaust
5 & 6 are just noise makers
7 & 8 probably help a little but are also noise makers
0 & 9 are only intakes
0 & 9 = 60cfm & 110cfm for a total of 170cfm -resistance give about 90cfm of intake airflow
1, 2, 3-4, & 10 = 240cfm - resistance give about 160cfm of exhaust exhaust airflow.

And that doesn't even consider what is happening outside of case in your desk box.








Bottom line is that often things cool in spite of how poorly the airflow layout is.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> Yes I would absolutely switch 1 and 2. 5 probably doesn't make much difference, but know that having a slightly positive pressure in the case will reduce dust by just a tiny bit.
> 
> As for the "results"? I'd take it with a grain of salt. Try for yourself, there are a lot of their factors at play here. I'm merely telling you from an engineering standpoint, always have intake fans. I have every fan in my case as intake except the rear fan... If I run the 5 radiator setup then I use every fan as intake. Difference being I can't use side panels with the 5 rad setup...


Sometime it's best to take the engineers out of the sytstem and let the people with years of experience and who know how "theory" "equations", and "books" are often not how things function in the real world.

If you have all intakes there is no balance in the intake - exhaust and exhaust will only be though a very limited amount of vernt area thus restricting the overall airflow of system.









"All intake", "all exhaust", blah, blah ..









It's airflow we want .. and that means a similar amount of in and out airflow with a little more intake than exhaust so inside of case is slightly higher pressure than outside of case.


----------



## WHIMington

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Sometime it's best to take the engineers out of the sytstem and let the people with years of experience and who know how "theory" "equations", and "books" are often not how things function in the real world.


In that case you are talking about scientists and not engineers









Anyways, the only reason I choose to do all intake is because I simply wants to keep dust out of the case, I might change rear 140 into exhaust, but that won't help with the airflow too much.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WHIMington*
> 
> In that case you are talking about scientists and not engineers
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anyways, the only reason I choose to do all intake is because I simply wants to keep dust out of the case, I might change rear 140 into exhaust, but that won't help with the airflow too much.


Both.








I worked in R&D fabrication and testing. What science & engineering would give us to build was often unworkable, but we could usually use the general idea / design to make something that did what was needed.









Case has lots of venting. As long as you leave the same, preferably more exhaust area as intake fans have you will be fine.


----------



## semitope

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> Here is a picture of my case and the fan placement:
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Rest of Post
> 
> 
> 
> I keep my case inside my desk like this:
> 
> Everything is already in my case except for fan #10. I could add a 92mm Fan there to work as an exhaust especially if I do reverse the flow of my top fans from exhaust to intake.
> 
> Do you think it would make much sense to switch Fans #1,2 and 5? My temperatures are already exceptional. GPU never exceeds 49C and CPU never exceeds 50C during lengthy gaming sessions. GPU Radiator Fan speeds ~60%, CPU Fan Speeds ~50%. Both Pumps at ~85%.
> 
> There are people in the G10 Owner's Club who has much smaller, and much more cramped cases than mine with multi-GPU setups who were switching from intake to exhaust and they recorded zero difference in temperature.


Is 6 a 140 mm fan? How did you get it mounted there looking like it belongs? This is the pro right?


----------



## Dorito Bandit

Did you water-cooling guys miss *WhitePrQjser's* post here http://www.overclock.net/t/1418637/official-case-phanteks-club-enthoo-primo-enthoo-luxe-enthoo-pro-lovers-owners/5500_100#post_22795899 ? I bet he'd like to get some opinions.


----------



## Scotty99

So ive narrowed down the luxe to 1 con......the front panel cover's mounting bracket. We all know if you take off the panel over the front mesh it still have the mounting "bracket" behind that looks pretty bad. Now my question is, if i get it home can i fix it? Would i be able to dremel off the plastic mount cleanly, and if so, is the panel full mesh after you get rid of the 4 mounting points or is there no mesh behind those?






Go to 3:43 to see exactly what im talking about if i didnt explain well enough, could i cut out all that plastic and would the mesh left behind look ok? (not sure if the mesh continues under those 4 mounting points).

If you guys think this is ridiculous, look here:
http://www.bit-tech.net/hardware/cases/2014/08/12/phanteks-enthoo-luxe-review/3

Scroll down to 2nd graph arranged by GPU delta temps. The enthoo PRO with HDD cage removed has 7c lower GPU temps than the luxe with the HDD cages removed (which i fully intend to do). This can only be attributed to the restrictive front panel on the luxe as everything else is the same on the cases.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scotty99*
> 
> So ive narrowed down the luxe to 1 con......the front panel cover's mounting bracket. We all know if you take off the panel over the front mesh it still have the mounting "bracket" behind that looks pretty bad. Now my question is, if i get it home can i fix it? Would i be able to dremel off the plastic mount cleanly, and if so, is the panel full mesh after you get rid of the 4 mounting points or is there no mesh behind those?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Go to 3:43 to see exactly what im talking about if i didnt explain well enough, could i cut out all that plastic and would the mesh left behind look ok? (not sure if the mesh continues under those 4 mounting points).
> 
> If you guys think this is ridiculous, look here:
> http://www.bit-tech.net/hardware/cases/2014/08/12/phanteks-enthoo-luxe-review/3
> 
> Scroll down to 2nd graph arranged by GPU delta temps. The enthoo PRO with HDD cage removed has 7c lower GPU temps than the luxe with the HDD cages removed (which i fully intend to do). This can only be attributed to the restrictive front panel on the luxe as everything else is the same on the cases.


I agree. I removed the front vent center panel on my Primo first thing.










Edit:
What is the size of the front vent opening?


----------



## Scotty99

Oh that sucks it leaves holes in the mesh after you remove them? Grrr. I was hoping it was made a bit different.

Sorry i wasnt clear i dont own the case yet i dont know what size the vent opening is. Basically if i dremel that plastic off ill have to fill the holes with something, darn lol.


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *semitope*
> 
> Is 6 a 140 mm fan? How did you get it mounted there looking like it belongs? This is the pro right?


Yup, #6 is the stock 140mm fan that came with the Pro. It fit up there *perfectly* It sits on top of my 120mm fan that is mounted to the HDD cage, and the housing of the 140mm barely touches my 240mm radiator. It sits flush and perfectly vertical.


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> The good news is ti's running nice and cool in spite of the mess it is.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Where is the fans 5 & 6 are supposed to move coming from?
> 7 & 8 are only passing the air from 9.
> 0 is side intake?
> 1, 2, 3-4, & 10 exhaust
> 5 & 6 are just noise makers
> 7 & 8 probably help a little but are also noise makers
> 0 & 9 are only intakes
> 0 & 9 = 60cfm & 110cfm for a total of 170cfm -resistance give about 90cfm of intake airflow
> 1, 2, 3-4, & 10 = 240cfm - resistance give about 160cfm of exhaust exhaust airflow.
> 
> And that doesn't even consider what is happening outside of case in your desk box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bottom line is that often things cool in spite of how poorly the airflow layout is.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sometime it's best to take the engineers out of the sytstem and let the people with years of experience and who know how "theory" "equations", and "books" are often not how things function in the real world.
> 
> If you have all intakes there is no balance in the intake - exhaust and exhaust will only be though a very limited amount of vernt area thus restricting the overall airflow of system.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> "All intake", "all exhaust", blah, blah ..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's airflow we want .. and that means a similar amount of in and out airflow with a little more intake than exhaust so inside of case is slightly higher pressure than outside of case.


#0 is the 92mm Fan from the G10 Bracket. Not an intake. #10 is not in my case, I was talking about potentially adding #10 if I were to switch Fans #1,2, and 5. The only intake in my case is the front 200mm Fan, #9. My case is incredibly quiet because none of my fans except the radiator fans exceed 1,000rpm and I am still getting these great temperatures and plenty of airflow within the case. As I type this I am hitting 25C on the hottest core of my CPU and GPU is at 24C. I would hardly call my layout a cluster **** as you so eloquently put it. Air moves from the front out the top and back and you can feel lots of air flowing throughout the case by putting your hand inside. I have good airflow, dust doesn't accumulate in my case, an I am incredibly pleased with my current temperatures.

My question was if I should switch Fans #1,2, and 5 to intake. Nothing else would be switched. This question came about because of someone saying that ALL radiators must be acting as intakes, and I disagree that my GPU radiator must act as an exhaust because the air it blows is extremely hot when the GPU is under load. My CPU's radiator blows hot air too when gaming for 60min or more, but not nearly as hot as the GPU's rad.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> #0 is the 92mm Fan from the G10 Bracket. Not an intake. #10 is not in my case, I was talking about potentially adding #10 if I were to switch Fans #1,2, and 5. The only intake in my case is the front 200mm Fan, #9. My case is incredibly quiet because none of my fans except the radiator fans exceed 1,000rpm and I am still getting these great temperatures and plenty of airflow within the case. As I type this I am hitting 25C on the hottest core of my CPU and GPU is at 24C. I would hardly call my layout a cluster **** as you so eloquently put it. Air moves from the front out the top and back and you can feel lots of air flowing throughout the case by putting your hand inside. I have good airflow, dust doesn't accumulate in my case, an I am incredibly pleased with my current temperatures.
> 
> My question was if I should switch Fans #1,2, and 5 to intake. Nothing else would be switched. This question came about because of someone saying that ALL radiators must be acting as intakes, and I disagree that my GPU radiator must act as an exhaust because the air it blows is extremely hot when the GPU is under load. My CPU's radiator blows hot air too when gaming for 60min or more, but not nearly as hot as the GPU's rad.


As i said before, if you have all intakes there is no balance in the intake and exhaust. Exhaust will only be though a very limited amount of vent area thus restricting the overall airflow of system. If there are 6 140mm intake vents and only 2 140mm exhaust vents, then the case can only exhaust the amount of air the 2x 140mm exhaust vents can flow. Doesn't matter if you have 28x 140mm intakes, the amount of airflow will remain pretty much the same if there are only the 2x 140mm exhaust vents. But there will be lots of of air *blow* .. and moving the air isn't the object. supplying cool air is what we want. Moving hot air is what a convection oven does.









It's all about cool airflow to components and hot airflow with as little mixing of the two as possible .. and that means a similar amount of in and out airflow with a little more intake than exhaust so inside of case is slightly higher pressure than outside of case.


----------



## Dorito Bandit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scotty99*
> 
> So ive narrowed down the luxe to 1 con......the front panel cover's mounting bracket. We all know if you take off the panel over the front mesh it still have the mounting "bracket" behind that looks pretty bad. Now my question is, if i get it home can i fix it? Would i be able to dremel off the plastic mount cleanly, and if so, is the panel full mesh after you get rid of the 4 mounting points or is there no mesh behind those?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Go to 3:43 to see exactly what im talking about if i didnt explain well enough, could i cut out all that plastic and would the mesh left behind look ok? (not sure if the mesh continues under those 4 mounting points).
> 
> If you guys think this is ridiculous, look here:
> http://www.bit-tech.net/hardware/cases/2014/08/12/phanteks-enthoo-luxe-review/3
> 
> Scroll down to 2nd graph arranged by GPU delta temps. The enthoo PRO with HDD cage removed has 7c lower GPU temps than the luxe with the HDD cages removed (which i fully intend to do). This can only be attributed to the restrictive front panel on the luxe as everything else is the same on the cases.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> I agree. I removed the front vent center panel on my Primo first thing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Edit:
> What is the size of the front vent opening?


Aren't the front panels of the Pro and Luxe very similar? If so, why not just buy a front panel of the Pro and remove the metal mesh from it and apply it to the Luxe. Not sure how you'd do this, though, if even possible. Contact Phanteks to see if they could send you (or sell you) just the metal mesh of the Pro.

Edit: Here is am image of the Enthoo Pro front panel from TweakTown. This image is showing that there are screws holding the metal mesh onto the panel. So, according to what I am seeing, this would be a very simple thing to remove and replace. If this is the same on the Luxe, then it looks like something that would be very easy to do. Assuming the Pro and Luxe are using the same size metal mesh, of course.



Here is an image from TweakTown showing the inside of the front panel on the Luxe.


----------



## Scotty99

I would 100% do that if its possible, but looking at the pictures it looks like the mesh on the pro is held on with 6 screws. If you look at the pics doyll posted of the luxe with the filter removed i dont see those same 6 screws







Even if it was removable with screws im not 100% sure they are the exact same size. Appreciate the reply tho and maybe someone else can chime in, maybe they own both cases : )


----------



## Dorito Bandit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scotty99*
> 
> I would 100% do that if its possible, but looking at the pictures it looks like the mesh on the pro is held on with 6 screws. If you look at the pics doyll posted of the luxe with the filter removed i dont see those same 6 screws
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Even if it was removable with screws im not 100% sure they are the exact same size. Appreciate the reply tho and maybe someone else can chime in, maybe they own both cases : )


Maybe a Luxe owner can post a pic or confirm whether or not there are screws holding the mesh in place. I agree with you, though, the luxe would look much better without that restrictive plate, IMHO.


----------



## brian-phanteks

The mesh is wedged between the aluminum face and the plastic structure. No screws directly securing the mesh.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dorito Bandit*
> 
> Maybe a Luxe owner can post a pic or confirm whether or not there are screws holding the mesh in place. I agree with you, though, the luxe would look much better without that restrictive plate, IMHO.


----------



## doyll

Thanks Brian.

Bill Owen of MPCtech and TheModZoo has grills for front of Enthoo Primo. I don't know if they will fit Enthoo Luxe or not.
https://mnpctech.com/phanteks-case-mods/phanteks-primo-front-grill-en/phanteks-primo-front-grill.html


----------



## doyll

What about something like this?
A Phobya 240mm Radiator Grill Bricky painted to match case overlay on vent opening.


----------



## laxboimike

What do you guys think of my enthoo primo build! =)


----------



## Accursed Entity

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *laxboimike*
> 
> What do you guys think of my enthoo primo build! =)


Love it, rep+! Can you give us specs?


----------



## semitope

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *laxboimike*
> 
> What do you guys think of my enthoo primo build! =)


where's the power supply? Sorcery?


----------



## laxboimike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Accursed Entity*
> 
> Love it, rep+! Can you give us specs?


Cpu - Intel Core i7 4770K
Mobo - Gigabyte G1. Sniper 5
Vid Cards - Nvidia 780 GTX x 2
Memory - Corsair Dominator DDR3 2400
SSD - Samsung 840 Pro , Kingston hyper X
HDD - WD 3TB
PWR Supply - Corsair AX1200i
Fans - 4 Corsair Quiet Editions , 7 Cougar Ultra Silents
Coolers - All EK!!!
Liquid - Mayhems Pastel Green
Rads - 480 XT EK , 240 XTX EK
Controllers - NZXT Sentry Mix 2 & HUE , Lamptron Water cooling
Displays - Asus VG248QE x 3

And my power supply is hidden with magic of course!


----------



## SteelArt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *laxboimike*
> 
> What do you guys think of my enthoo primo build! =)


Looks sick. I love it.

Just a quick teaser from my new build with i7 4790K and Asus Maximus VII Formula:


----------



## WHIMington

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Both.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I worked in R&D fabrication and testing. What science & engineering would give us to build was often unworkable, but we could usually use the general idea / design to make something that did what was needed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Case has lots of venting. As long as you leave the same, preferably more exhaust area as intake fans have you will be fine.


Not in my case though, most engineers at the company I work for have to go down and dirty for a few years before they have a chance to become a proper engineer, we value experience and certificates more then a university diploma







(besides most people in engineering department ain't engineers at all







)

Anyways, since both my cpu and gpu will be water cooled(and in the future, motherboard as well) air flow wasn't the biggest concern.


----------



## Tunz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *laxboimike*
> 
> What do you guys think of my enthoo primo build! =)


Very nice. How did you mount your res? I can't tell if you're using the supplied bracket or not. If so I'm assuming you had to cut it to fit your SLI setup.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WHIMington*
> 
> Not in my case though, most engineers at the company I work for have to go down and dirty for a few years before they have a chance to become a proper engineer, we value experience and certificates more then a university diploma
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (besides most people in engineering department ain't engineers at all
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )
> 
> Anyways, since both my cpu and gpu will be water cooled(and in the future, motherboard as well) air flow wasn't the biggest concern.


Obviously you know what I was talking about.








With H2O we still need airflow, just not as obvious as with all air. Same principles apply; cool air to radiator and get hot air out. Drives and such still need some airflow.









I haven't played with H20 in many years. Would be fun and look fantastic, but way too expensive for me.









Did another grill rendition for Luxe. Could use similar on Primo.


----------



## rpjkw11

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteelArt*
> 
> Looks sick. I love it.
> 
> Just a quick teaser from my new build with i7 4790K and Asus Maximus VII Formula:


Man, I love that!


----------



## laxboimike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tunz*
> 
> Very nice. How did you mount your res? I can't tell if you're using the supplied bracket or not. If so I'm assuming you had to cut it to fit your SLI setup.


I mounted it to the bracket in the enthoo primo with the supplied bracket from EK. SLI will fit in there but u have to go with PCI slots directly next to each other and the first slot from the top, so I couldn't use my pretty evga sli bridge


----------



## bond32

Just ordered 2xSwiftech MCP50X pumps, internal reservoir, and 4 helix fans. Next step I think I am going to investigate building an external box to house all 5 radiators, 3 pumps, and 2 reservoirs and plumb it to the Enthoo Pro from the outside of the case.

I'm not exactly a carpenter, going to attempt to do this using some angle iron/brackets that are bolted and welded if needed.


----------



## Bigjk47

OK I did my research on putting a 480 rad in push pull on the bottom of the "luxe" and I Know this can be done with no issues. But where the heck do you mount the PSU then???


----------



## semitope

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bigjk47*
> 
> OK I did my research on putting a 480 rad in push pull on the bottom of the "luxe" and I Know this can be done with no issues. But where the heck do you mount the PSU then???


That sounds like an issue...

That other guy I asked where his PSU in his primo was might know. His looked like all radiator at the bottom


----------



## Bigjk47

That's what I thought. Couldn't fathom there being anymore room for power supply on the bottom w/480. The more I look at builds I think I might be mistaken, I'm thinking they are just mounting it behind the rad and PSU cover plate on its side... Hmm.


----------



## skywalker311

I guess you would put the 480 rad as close to the front of the case. Then you have to find a power supply that would fit in the space you had left. Then you could cut a hole in the case right where the wires would start to come out of the power supply. Then pull the cables through the back of the case. That one way you could do it maybe. I have the pro case and my power supply goes in the back of my case. Why not go with a thick 280 rad. That would look good and you have enough room for your power supply. Something like a Alphacool NexXxoS Monsta Dual 140mm Radiator


----------



## Bigjk47

Yeah I might be better off that route, thanks for the info. I'd love to hear from Someone who has installed a 480 in the bottom. I have seen a few reviews showing off big push pull bottom mount rad configurations but didn't say or show a lot on PSU mounting. Leads me to believe there is a less painful method of installation.


----------



## WHIMington

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bigjk47*
> 
> OK I did my research on putting a 480 rad in push pull on the bottom of the "luxe" and I Know this can be done with no issues. But where the heck do you mount the PSU then???


Do you mean the "Primo" or the "Luxe"? because only the Primo have room for bottom 480

Luxe and Pro can only fit up to 240 at the bottom


----------



## aduman

Hi! I'm about to get an Enthoo Luxe and I have only one thing left to clear out, is there any build quality difference between the white and black version? Do they use the same materials on front panel, inside etc. ? Which one would you recommend, or is it just down to personal preference? I'd really appreciate your input. If any owner here could help me out I'd really be grateful!







Looking forward to join the club.

Thanks!


----------



## Bigjk47

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WHIMington*
> 
> Do you mean the "Primo" or the "Luxe"? because only the Primo have room for bottom 480
> Do you mean the "Primo" or the "Luxe"? because only the Primo have room for bottom 480
> 
> Luxe and Pro can only fit up to 240 at the bottom


Ohhhh . yes I was referring to the Luxe. Now it makes a lot more sense. Hmm. I was planning on purchasing luxe in the next week but I really want to use my 480...thanks!


----------



## skywalker311

The black and white versions are the same. Only different colors. They will be coming out with some new colors here soon. Black and red, black and orange, black and white, etc, etc. Here a link to see a few of the special editions.


----------



## Fantomau

My Enthoo Primo w/ MNPCTech Grill Installed


----------



## skywalker311

You need to go with the Primo case if you want to use your 480 rad. The power supply goes in the back of the case so you have the whole bottom to work with.


----------



## aduman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skywalker311*
> 
> The black and white versions are the same. Only different colors. They will be coming out with some new colors here soon. Black and red, black and orange, black and white, etc, etc. Here a link to see a few of the special editions.


There is no Luxe on this video, the guy only shows Primo with the colours you mentioned. Are you sure Luxe will have these too?


----------



## skywalker311

Here some pics of my build. I'll have it all put together by next week. I'm waiting on a few things from frozen cpu to finish it.






I also change the led strips and power button to red.
It looks great when it light up. Plus I've also add RGB kit inside the case. This case is so big it hide things very well.


----------



## skywalker311

Just the primo cases only.


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

@Doyll

So I switched the fans #1,2,&5 in my case from exhaust to intake. My temperatures went UP by 2-3C during Idle and 1-2C during load. I live in Florida in a temperature controlled smart house, the summer time is actually the most cool time of year for me because the A/C is always on at a constant 75F/24C. I don't think it is fair to say that your formula works for every situation. Now, I need to waste more time to flip everything back around because a "theory" didn't hold true.


----------



## bond32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> @Doyll
> 
> So I switched the fans #1,2,&5 in my case from exhaust to intake. My temperatures went UP by 2-3C during Idle and 1-2C during load. I live in Florida in a temperature controlled smart house, the summer time is actually the most cool time of year for me because the A/C is always on at a constant 75F/24C. I don't think it is fair to say that your formula works for every situation. Now, I need to waste more time to flip everything back around because a "theory" didn't hold true.


Lol, so you switched fans on your already poor performance closed loop cooler, and I assume you expected a difference that would knock your socks off. And you already made it clear you have zero inclination towards actual data, facts, or "science", so honestly how can anyone take your "test" seriously?

Apologize to be such a convince to you for pointing out some thermodynamics to you. Again, put the fans how you want. In the end, even if it did provide better temperatures, I think at this point you would still be unhappy.

If you ever actually decide you want to learn how that energy gets from your cpu to the ambient, have a read here: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Heat_transfer


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> Lol, so you switched fans on your already poor performance closed loop cooler, and I assume you expected a difference that would knock your socks off. And you already made it clear you have zero inclination towards actual data, facts, or "science", so honestly how can anyone take your "test" seriously?
> 
> Apologize to be such a convince to you for pointing out some thermodynamics to you. Again, put the fans how you want. In the end, even if it did provide better temperatures, I think at this point you would still be unhappy.
> 
> If you ever actually decide you want to learn how that energy gets from your cpu to the ambient, have a read here: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Heat_transfer


My temperatures are fantastic considering how little money I have spent. $170 for both CPU + GPU and neither hits 50C when at 50% fan speed. I have a high regard for science, but you cannot place a blanket statement for something and it doesn't apply to everyone. Even in the G10 Owner's Club, people are constantly changing the direction of their radiator fans and are seeing no change.

You and Doyll were both telling me that I need to change 1,2 and 5 to intake and I would see a reduction in temperatures. Well it didn't happen. I kept the exact same settings, placement, everything. The only variable I changed is the fan placement. I understand and know how to do a scientific experiment. I don't do it professionally or at the highest level, but I understand the principles of it, and I conducted a simple test. I even went so far as to keep my CPU Water Block attached to the CPU while I changed the fans so that a different application of TIM wouldn't alter the results.


----------



## owcraftsman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rpjkw11*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *SteelArt*
> 
> Looks sick. I love it.
> 
> Just a quick teaser from my new build with i7 4790K and Asus Maximus VII Formula:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Man, I love that!
Click to expand...

Awesome very Stormtropper-esque


----------



## bond32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> My temperatures are fantastic considering how little money I have spent. $170 for both CPU + GPU and neither hits 50C when at 50% fan speed. I have a high regard for science, but you cannot place a blanket statement for something and it doesn't apply to everyone. Even in the G10 Owner's Club, people are constantly changing the direction of their radiator fans and are seeing no change.
> 
> You and Doyll were both telling me that I need to change 1,2 and 5 to intake and I would see a reduction in temperatures. Well it didn't happen. I kept the exact same settings, placement, everything. The only variable I changed is the fan placement. I understand and know how to do a scientific experiment. I don't do it professionally or at the highest level, but I understand the principles of it, and I conducted a simple test. I even went so far as to keep my CPU Water Block attached to the CPU while I changed the fans so that a different application of TIM wouldn't alter the results.


So did you keep the ambient temperature the exact same? Did you ensure the fans were running at the exact same temperature?? Did you somehow make sure the flowrate was the exact same in a pump you cannot measure?? Did you do any recordings of power such as voltage, current?

Yeah, sure. You know how to do a "scientific experiment".


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> So did you keep the ambient temperature the exact same? Did you ensure the fans were running at the exact same temperature?? Did you somehow make sure the flowrate was the exact same in a pump you cannot measure?? Did you do any recordings of power such as voltage, current?
> 
> Yeah, sure. You know how to do a "scientific experiment".


I already said I live in a climate controlled smart house, the temperature is always 75F/23.8C. The fans are running at the exact same speed because I use DC control in Fan Xpert and I kept all the settings/speeds the exact same as before. The pump is also on DC control and I can monitor and control its speed. It has a controllable range from 700 to 1400rpm. It is kept at the same speed of 1300rpm at all times. My OC was the same 4.5Ghz @ 1.160v.

NOTHING was changed except for the direction of fans 1,2 and 5.


----------



## bond32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> I already said I live in a climate controlled smart house, the temperature is always 75F/23.8C. The fans are running at the exact same speed because I use DC control in Fan Xpert and I kept all the settings/speeds the exact same as before. The pump is also on DC control and I can monitor and control its speed. It has a controllable range from 700 to 1400rpm. It is kept at the same speed of 1300rpm at all times. My OC was the same 4.5Ghz @ 1.160v.
> 
> NOTHING was changed except for the direction of fans 1,2 and 5.


Lol, that's not even remotely the same. Whatever you say man, guess you really do have it figured out.


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> Lol, that's not even remotely the same. Whatever you say man, guess you really do have it figured out.


You're a joke. I wish that you were right and that I would have gotten a few degrees lower temperatures, but it didn't happen, and you continue to refute my findings. I ran the test to the best of my abilities, changing only 1 variable.

What I am saying is that every situation is different, and you cannot apply your blanket statement that all radiator fans must be intakes. In theory, it sounds like it will be better, but I just tested it and it was not the case for me.


----------



## bond32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> You're a joke. I wish that you were right and that I would have gotten a few degrees lower temperatures, but it didn't happen, and you continue to refute my findings. I ran the test to the best of my abilities, changing only 1 variable.
> 
> What I am saying is that every situation is different, and you cannot apply your blanket statement that all radiator fans must be intakes. In theory, it sounds like it will be better, but I just tested it and it was not the case for me.


You're right. It was my mistake to actually make an attempt to help you. For one, I didn't realize you had a CLC.
Quote:


> Very cool! I think I will try mixing fans. My top radiator is set to exhaust, so I think I will go ahead and remove the filter and add some fans up top. That link you sent me was great, I'm excited for this now. I would really like to drop my temps by another 2-3C.


You actually expected to get 2-3 degrees from that?

I should remind you that you asked. And everything I said is true. I really don't know what to say if you continue to brush it off as a "blanket statement". And your findings? So you set your thermostat to a temperature, did you actually take time to measure the temperature of the air entering the heat exchanger on your closed loop cooler?

You're right. Every situation is different. But the governing principles are the same. This is a prime perfect example of cooling laws and how the actual heat exchange takes place. You don't want to believe it? Ok, I guess... lol.


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> You're right. It was my mistake to actually make an attempt to help you. For one, I didn't realize you had a CLC.
> You actually expected to get 2-3 degrees from that?
> 
> I should remind you that you asked. And everything I said is true. I really don't know what to say if you continue to brush it off as a "blanket statement". And your findings? So you set your thermostat to a temperature, did you actually take time to measure the temperature of the air entering the heat exchanger on your closed loop cooler?
> 
> You're right. Every situation is different. But the governing principles are the same. This is a prime perfect example of cooling laws and how the actual heat exchange takes place. You don't want to believe it? Ok, I guess... lol.


In my very first post, you can clearly see it is an AIO. I also said it in my text. Not my fault you cannot read or use your eyes. You're the one who said it would lower temperatures by up to 2C!

_"If you want to put your rads as exhaust then go for it. At least now you know (or you just ignored my comment) that the thermodynamics side would tell you to always bring cool air in a heat exchanger.

Yep you're right, don't ask me. Its not like I'm an actual engineer or anything.

Oh and you're on an Over clock site so yeah, 2 degrees is a considerable amount."_

My thermostat has been at a controlled 75F since March. I live in Florida, it gets hot. I keep the temperature at an unchanging 75F. The thermostat is right outside of my bedroom door and the vent is right above my computer desk.

I believe in the theory, laws, and principle of it all. If I didn't, I wouldn't have at least tried changing it to the way it is supposed to be. I did though and my results were different than what was expected.

Lets leave it at there are always exceptions to the rules.


----------



## Tunz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *laxboimike*
> 
> I mounted it to the bracket in the enthoo primo with the supplied bracket from EK. SLI will fit in there but u have to go with PCI slots directly next to each other and the first slot from the top, so I couldn't use my pretty evga sli bridge


I see. Unfortunately the pci slots are spaced farther apart (2.4") on my Maximus VII hero, so there's no way it will fit. I was thinking about cutting the bracket, or mounting the res to the top HDD cage. I need to get my parts in to see. Tuesday can't come quick enough.


----------



## skywalker311

WHAT IS THE CORRECT WAY TO HOOK UP THE 6X FAN CONTROLLER ON THE BACK OF THE PRIMO CASE!

is this the correct way to hook up the fan hub on the back of the case.


The red color is power to the molex connector.
The blue color I hook up the 4 pin to my cpu header on my motherboard.
Is this correct.


----------



## cgull

good onya pinko for having a go m8

key principles of science; observation, experimentation and most importantly an open mind.
real scientists love being proven wrong.. it means the advancement of knowledge.
ego is a deterrent to the acquisition od knowledge.

your little experiment proves what many experienced watercoolers have always said.. each "case" is literally different and sometimes you get results that don't always make sense.. the airflow within your enclosure is unique. redo your cabling and it changes. for this reason there is a general principle , but only experimentation will ensure the best result for you.

a degree / certification is a piece of paper, sure it means something, but it doesn't mean everything.

Da Vinci didn't have one

my advice is to listen to everybody, but follow your own intuition and back it up with experimentation..


----------



## doyll

What cguil said









A couple of observations:

With you smart house cooling the air coming out of the vents is not always 75f. It is cooler to make the house 75f.







If it is 90f outside the vent air temp may be 65f ion order to lower the air temp at thermostat to 75f.
Using automatic fan and pump control does not mean they are running the same _after_ fans were changed as
Quote:


> before


. Automatic means it adjusts speed dependent on temp, and often it can take a couple degrees change in temp for control to change pump / fan speeds.
Case placement and how the airflow is around the case can also have a significant effect on component temps.
I'm sorry I didn't point out that sometimes even they best thought out airflow will not perform as expected. I usually do point this out. Second link in my sig is a basic guide to optimizing case airlfow.

I'm sorry it didn't improve temps, but your attempt does not have enough verifiable data to prove anyone right or wrong. Add to that the fact that airflow is a fickled witch that can and often does unexpected things. We can usually figure out why in hindsight, but it is sometimes impossible to predict before we test it.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skywalker311*
> 
> WHAT IS THE CORRECT WAY TO HOOK UP THE 6X FAN CONTROLLER ON THE BACK OF THE PRIMO CASE!
> 
> is this the correct way to hook up the fan hub on the back of the case.
> 
> 
> The red color is power to the molex connector.
> The blue color I hook up the 4 pin to my cpu header on my motherboard.
> Is this correct.


Almost correct
4-pin lead must be connect to a motherboard PWM fan *header with PWM signal on pin-4*
Fan 1 has to be used and is master giving motherboard rpm signal.

I took the liberty of editing your drawing. Hope you don't mind.


----------



## setter

Anyone added a side fan to the window on the primo? I recently installed another gigabyte wf gtx 780 and temps on the top card are getting quite high at 79c, (bottom one at 65c max). Thinking that if i added a side fan it would help to cool the cards. Pics below of setup.

http://s164.photobucket.com/user/se... Uploads/WP_20140817_001_zps895ebdee.jpg.html
http://s164.photobucket.com/user/se... Uploads/WP_20140817_002_zps0b5cf512.jpg.html

Also need to get a few more braided pcie cables as the stock corsair ones look dire. New 1000w superflower platinum psu going in as well in a few days time..


----------



## Scotty99

Why in the world would you want to ruin the look of the case lol. If you were going for functionality over form you should have purchased a case with full side mesh like corsair 600t and put a bunch of fans on it. Please, dont ruin your beautiful case.


----------



## setter

I could always purchase a replacement panel to use when i eventually go back to a single more powerful card. Ideally reference cards would have been better for sli, but i already had a wf and another came up for sale on another forum i frequent. At £255.00 it was too good to resist.


----------



## Scotty99

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *setter*
> 
> I could always purchase a replacement panel to use when i eventually go back to a single more powerful card. Ideally reference cards would have been better for sli, but i already had a wf and another came up for sale on another forum i frequent. At £255.00 it was too good to resist.


Ya if you wanna get another panel for it thats an option i suppose. Just remember, there is a reason most people do not recommend SLI, it has more problems than it is worth unless you bought them specifically for AAA titles like BF4 where they have gone through sufficient testing. Even major review sites started recommending against SLI lately like tomshardware, linus tech tips, and even your bro across the pond tiny tom logan. If you are doing it for aesthetics (which i find is why most people on this forum go SLI) i find it confusing you would be willing to destroy your case lol. But ya, if you can get ahold of another side panel and keep your original unscathed you would definitely notice GPU temp drops, i would recommend it as an exhaust


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *setter*
> 
> Anyone added a side fan to the window on the primo? I recently installed another gigabyte wf gtx 780 and temps on the top card are getting quite high at 79c, (bottom one at 65c max). Thinking that if i added a side fan it would help to cool the cards. Pics below of setup.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Pics below of setup
> 
> 
> 
> http://s164.photobucket.com/user/se... Uploads/WP_20140817_001_zps895ebdee.jpg.html
> http://s164.photobucket.com/user/se... Uploads/WP_20140817_002_zps0b5cf512.jpg.html
> 
> Also need to get a few more braided pcie cables as the stock corsair ones look dire. New 1000w superflower platinum psu going in as well in a few days time..


Instead of mounting a fan on the side panel you might try mounting a fan on the side of a HDD cage blowing on the ends of the cards. The sides of the HDD cages have mounting holes for 120mm fans.


----------



## Scotty99

I assumed he already took out the HDD cages since he is contemplating side panel fans.


----------



## setter

I do indeed play a lot of bf4 and sli scales very well in it. Ive already got two fans on the mount points on the side of the hdd cages, (not visible in pics). Though they dont help an awful lot, probably would have worked better with reference blower cards.


----------



## Scotty99

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *setter*
> 
> I do indeed play a lot of bf4 and sli scales very well in it. Ive already got two fans on the mount points on the side of the hdd cages, (not visible in pics). Though they dont help an awful lot, probably would have worked better with reference blower cards.


Doubt it, reference cards really only help for case temps, which would help your CPU out. Reference cards would not only be hotter for top card, but your bottom card would be too. If you only have 1 HDD i would remove both cages and mount it on the floor of the case (there are screw holes for it) i bet that lowers your temps by as much as 5c.

Good to hear your play a game that supports SLI well like BF4, i shake my head when some people buy two cards and play WoW or LoL etc lol.


----------



## kalleklovn12

Yeah! Got my Phanteks Enthoo Primo AND a new rad







(And my Asus Rog Swift)


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *setter*
> 
> Anyone added a side fan to the window on the primo? I recently installed another gigabyte wf gtx 780 and temps on the top card are getting quite high at 79c, (bottom one at 65c max). Thinking that if i added a side fan it would help to cool the cards. Pics below of setup.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://s164.photobucket.com/user/se... Uploads/WP_20140817_001_zps895ebdee.jpg.html
> http://s164.photobucket.com/user/se... Uploads/WP_20140817_002_zps0b5cf512.jpg.html
> 
> 
> Also need to get a few more braided pcie cables as the stock corsair ones look dire. New 1000w superflower platinum psu going in as well in a few days time..


Looking good!









Not many of us air heads using Primo cases.









Can quite understand wanting airflow to upper GPU and only place to get it from is side.
I can think of 2 ways to go:
Drill a vent grill with a drill press
Cut a vent hole and put a gril / filter over it. A Demciflex 140mm square filter with black mesh would probably look quite nice.


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

I don't run automatic fan or pump speeds. I run MANUAL, DC controlled speed at all times. It is at a constant speed unless I change it. It was never changed

The test was done over the course of an hour, hour and a half at most. The temperature is unchanging. I understand what you said about the outside temperature being different and the inside changing as a result, but the test was conducted in such a short period of time and the computer is inside the desk.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> I don't run automatic fan or pump speeds. I run MANUAL, DC controlled speed at all times. It is at a constant speed unless I change it. It was never changed
> 
> The test was done over the course of an hour, hour and a half at most. The temperature is unchanging. I understand what you said about the outside temperature being different and the inside changing as a result, but the test was conducted in such a short period of time and the computer is inside the desk.


The computer placement may well cause heated exhaust from some vents to be ingested by intake vents.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scotty99*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Doubt it, reference cards really only help for case temps, which would help your CPU out. Reference cards would not only be hotter for top card, but your bottom card would be too. If you only have 1 HDD i would remove both cages and mount it on the floor of the case (there are screw holes for it) i bet that lowers your temps by as much as 5c.
> 
> Good to hear your play a game that supports SLI well like BF4, i shake my head when some people buy two cards and play WoW or LoL etc lol.


The blower design of reference cards does in fact work better for SLI .. for the very reason you said; it removes more of their heated air and allows the upper card to get cooler intake airl.


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

I'm done with both of you. The computer was placed in the same spot when doing the tests. Nothing was changed except the direction of the fans.

As cgull said I kept an open mind and tried it your way. It didn't work. It might work for someone else, but it didn't work for me. Maybe if my computer was not inside of a desk it would be a different result, but I am talking about my personal computer and where it is placed. All of the relevant information was given in my very first post. Every "case" is different.

I really wish that me changing the directions of the fans would have had a positive effect on my temperatures. It didn't work out the way conventional wisdom would say it would. Stop trying to discredit me and my tests. I ran them to the best of my abilities in a very controlled environment.

I appreciate both the helpand advice that you tried to bestow onto me, but you cannot continue to use a blanket statement of "one size fits all." In the future, tell people that in the majority of situations it is better to have your radiator fans as intake, but it is not a sure thing and the only way to be sure is to test different placements and find the best option for your specific case, case location, and fan placement.


----------



## WHIMington

Lets just say whatever floats your boat, bottom line is as long as there is cold air going in things will be cooled


----------



## Scotty99

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> The blower design of reference cards does in fact work better for SLI .. for the very reason you said; it removes more of their heated air and allows the upper card to get cooler intake airl.


But he was concerned with GPU temps, and aftermarket cards will run cooler than reference no matter what config you put them in. Reference cards are only good for cases with no airflow or very small itx cases imo.


----------



## cgull

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scotty99*
> 
> But he was concerned with GPU temps, and aftermarket cards will run cooler than reference no matter what config you put them in. Reference cards are only good for cases with no airflow or very small itx cases imo.


true, however what to do in the current situation to get better temps?

already got fans on the hd cage so ;

selling 2 gpu's and buying a single, better card-- may be best long term option
if possible watercool at least top gpu, - may not be able to even get a full block-- best cooling option but expensive
change motherboard to one with better slot arrangement for gpu's--expensive

combination of the folowing
try to add 1 or 2 -80 mm fans around the vent area above the pci slots- might shave a few degrees, but will be noisy
do everything to improve airflow around gpu-- cable managent etc
modding that beautiful window to put a fan mount-- at best worth a few degees

watercooling the gpu's would get the most improvement on temps 20 degrees and more-- this is why I got into watercooling
trading up to a single card is probably the best option as you're never going to be able to improve the temps on the top card by much even with lots of fans surrounding it

my 2c


----------



## skywalker311

Thanks, so just to be 100% sure that I'm hooking it up right.
I hook up the molex connector to my power supply.
Then I connect the 4 pin cable to the 4 pin slot on the fan hub.
That need to be plug into the 4 pin cpu fan header.
Then I need to hook up only one fan to number 1 fan header and the others # 2 through 6 can have x2 fans on each fan head.
Go into my bios and turn the PWM function.
Now my mobo is a Z87 MVIF by chance Is it not already turn on.
Again thanks for your help with this. It doesn't say how to set it up in the manual.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scotty99*
> 
> But he was concerned with GPU temps, and aftermarket cards will run cooler than reference no matter what config you put them in. Reference cards are only good for cases with no airflow or very small itx cases imo.


I assume you mean aftermarket coolers?







If so, they will only run cooler if they have a source of cool intake air. Reference cards by design do a much better job of keeping heated exhaust separate from intake air. .. which is why the most often work better for SLI.









Setter could duct the front fan to the top GPU for to better separate the cool air form heated exhaust.


Couple of simple ducts to exhaust cooler heat


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skywalker311*
> 
> Thanks, so just to be 100% sure that I'm hooking it up right.
> I hook up the molex connector to my power supply.
> Then I connect the 4 pin cable to the 4 pin slot on the fan hub.
> That need to be plug into the 4 pin cpu fan header.
> Then I need to hook up only one fan to number 1 fan header and the others # 2 through 6 can have x2 fans on each fan head.
> Go into my bios and turn the PWM function.
> Now my mobo is a Z87 MVIF by chance Is it not already turn on.
> Again thanks for your help with this. It doesn't say how to set it up in the manual.


That should do it.


----------



## schneeball

http://www.3dmark.com/fs/2709902
hey all,

new to site just thought i would add some pictures of my Phanteks enthoo build, still work in progress 




just ordered a 4th GTX Titan Black Ghz ed , Another Aquacomputer block and SLI bridge and Aquacomputer Aquaero 6 XT Fan Controller


----------



## Scotty99

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> I assume you mean aftermarket coolers?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If so, they will only run cooler if they have a source of cool intake air. Reference cards by design do a much better job of keeping heated exhaust separate from intake air. .. which is why the most often work better for SLI.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Setter could duct the front fan to the top GPU for to better separate the cool air form heated exhaust.
> 
> 
> Couple of simple ducts to exhaust cooler heat


You didn't catch my drift broseph. Yes of course reference cards do a better job at exiting heat from the case, but the person in question was worried about GPU temps.....and reference cards do a poor job in comparison to non reference cards when talking about GPU core temps. Had he asked "how do i bring my ambient case temps down" or "how do i lower my overall system temps" reference cards would be a great suggestion, but he was specifically worried about his GPU temps.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scotty99*
> 
> You didn't catch my drift broseph. Yes of course reference cards do a better job at exiting heat from the case, but the person in question was worried about GPU temps.....and reference cards do a poor job in comparison to non reference cards when talking about GPU core temps. Had he asked "how do i bring my ambient case temps down" or "how do i lower my overall system temps" reference cards would be a great suggestion, but he was specifically worried about his GPU temps.


Isn't the duct designI suggested in drawing above addressing the asked?








Seems you have drifted off somewhere that "aftermarket card" live. I don't know that place.








I know of "reference cards" and all the other cards marketed with 1x, 2x and 3x fans .. and aftermarket GPU coolers with same . But never heard of "aftermarket cards".


----------



## Pikaru

Just wondering you pros with the enthoo primo could help me out with my build here: http://www.overclock.net/t/1511708/planning-a-wc-build-in-new-enthoo-primo

Thanks!


----------



## SteelArt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pikaru*
> 
> Just wondering you pros with the enthoo primo could help me out with my build here: http://www.overclock.net/t/1511708/planning-a-wc-build-in-new-enthoo-primo


I had a problem with Primochill tubing + Mayhems pastel white. After just 1 momth my tubes become yellowish. I've read somewhere (maybe at frozencpu) that mayhems is not compatible with Primochill tubing.


----------



## Pikaru

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteelArt*
> 
> I had a problem with Primochill tubing + Mayhems pastel white. After just 1 momth my tubes become yellowish. I've read somewhere (maybe at frozencpu) that mayhems is not compatible with Primochill tubing.


Would it affect anything if I was using red tubing? I'd like for the res to have some color in it is the only reason I wanted the dye. Would you also recommend I get a pump top? I've read they're not really needed, but I'd rather be safe than sorry.


----------



## SteelArt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pikaru*
> 
> Would it affect anything if I was using red tubing?


Can't say.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pikaru*
> 
> Would you also recommend I get a pump top?


Well, pump top is up to you. I have bitspower D5 Mod TOP V2


----------



## DeXel

It's not Mayhem + Primochill issue. It's just Primochill issue. Tubings turns yellow at high water temps.


----------



## SteelArt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeXel*
> 
> It's not Mayhem + Primochill issue. It's just Primochill issue. Tubings turns yellow at high water temps.


It doesn't matter. The thing is these both components are not compatible with each other. I had very low temps and my tubes becomes yellow just within 1 month. Anyway I don't care since I switched to Monsoon Hardline tubes ;-)


----------



## DeXel

How low temps? I've read anything above 40C turns them yellow. Which is pretty bad because that's pretty hard to achieve.


----------



## SteelArt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeXel*
> 
> How low temps? I've read anything above 40C turns them yellow. Which is pretty bad because that's pretty hard to achieve.


Really?! I had about 45-50 when not idle. It makes sense.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteelArt*
> 
> I had a problem with Primochill tubing + Mayhems pastel white. After just 1 momth my tubes become yellowish. I've read somewhere (maybe at frozencpu) that mayhems is not compatible with Primochill tubing.


Primochill Advanced LRT is one of only two types of tubing that have been specifically approved for use with Mayhems Pastel.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1286896/mayhems-users-club/


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeXel*
> 
> How low temps? I've read anything above 40C turns them yellow. Which is pretty bad because that's pretty hard to achieve.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *SteelArt*
> 
> Really?! I had about 45-50 when not idle. It makes sense.
Click to expand...

If you're coolant temps are hitting 40C or above you really should be looking at more rad and/or better / faster fans, or something along those lines.


----------



## SteelArt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> If you're coolant temps are hitting 40C or above you really should be looking at more rad and/or better / faster fans, or something along those lines.


Ah, I was talking about CPU temp, not coolant.


----------



## Pikaru

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pikaru*
> 
> Just wondering you pros with the enthoo primo could help me out with my build here: http://www.overclock.net/t/1511708/planning-a-wc-build-in-new-enthoo-primo
> 
> Thanks!


I added a new wish list to my possible build if you guys could check it out again. I added a drain port that I hope are that right parts. I'm also looking into a fill port if someone could tell me what I need and where I should start.

I also went with PPCs as the prices were a lot cheaper.


----------



## Accursed Entity

*EVOLV*

LOG 09-07-2014 21:51

Cold rainy night at the Caribbean, still no official word from Phanteks on a release date... I fear the worst. It has been awhile since the announcement of the marvelous product, and as the time passes I am getting more and more nervous... I fear the worst. In a month I have to order a computer enclosure. While a few months back I was calm and full of hope, now I don't even know if they'll release it in time. I am getting desperate, so desperate I fear the worst...


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Accursed Entity*
> 
> *EVOLV*
> 
> LOG 09-07-2014 21:51
> 
> Cold rainy night at the Caribbean, still no official word from Phanteks on a release date... I fear the worst. It has been awhile since the announcement of the marvelous product, and as the time passes I am getting more and more nervous... I fear the worst. In a month I have to order a computer enclosure. While a few months back I was calm and full of hope, now I don't even know if they'll release it in time. I am getting desperate, so desperate I fear the worst...


I still believe based on how long it took Phanteks to release all their other cases so far after the first announcement that the EVOLV and Mini XL cases will show up around Oct/Nov which is what I said months ago. Doyll though, this thread's starter, said back then he didn't think they'd show up until sometime in 2015. I've no idea why he'd say that unless he knows something we don't because that would be at least several months longer than it took Phanteks to release any others so far. I still suspect one or both cases ought to be out and available before the 2014 holiday shopping season begins.


----------



## Accursed Entity

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> I still believe based on how long it took Phanteks to release all their other cases so far after the first announcement that the EVOLV and Mini XL cases will show up around Oct/Nov which is what I said months ago. Doyll though, this thread's starter, said back then he didn't think they'd show up until sometime in 2015. I've no idea why he'd say that unless he knows something we don't because that would be at least several months longer than it took Phanteks to release any others so far. I still suspect one or both cases ought to be out and available before the 2014 holiday shopping season begins.


I really hope so...


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> I still believe based on how long it took Phanteks to release all their other cases so far after the first announcement that the EVOLV and Mini XL cases will show up around Oct/Nov which is what I said months ago. Doyll though, this thread's starter, said back then he didn't think they'd show up until sometime in 2015. I've no idea why he'd say that unless he knows something we don't because that would be at least several months longer than it took Phanteks to release any others so far. I still suspect one or both cases ought to be out and available before the 2014 holiday shopping season begins.


No inside info on release dates. Was only a guess .. but only a couple months more than your estimate.








Any developments I hear will be posted.


----------



## CrunchyElementZ

Hi guys, i have been on reading this forum thread for almost a year now, since i am planning on building my first gaming PC with a Enthoo Primo. I plan to get the components of my build for my birthday (which is in 2 more month from now) or for christmas. And i would like to know what your opinions are on my build! The build is going to be in the color scheme of blue, white and black and it is going to be water cooled, and i will also do a build log! I would also like to know if the XSPC Photon 270 tube reservoir would fit on the reservoir bracket.

List of the builds component and WC loop are in this site: http://pcpartpicker.com/user/Pokechrizx7/saved/Yrytt6

Also the information from Steelart of the Primochill tubing with Mayhems pastel coolant really helped me because i was going to use clear Primochill tubing with Mayhems pastel blue berry concentrate for my build. And would anybody know any good tubing i could use with my Mayhems pastel blue berry concentrate? since i'm not going to use the Primochill anymore









Thanks in advance!


----------



## WHIMington

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CrunchyElementZ*
> 
> Hi guys, i have been on reading this forum thread for almost a year now, since i am planning on building my first gaming PC with a Enthoo Primo. I plan to get the components of my build for my birthday (which is in 2 more month from now) or for christmas. And i would like to know what your opinions are on my build! The build is going to be in the color scheme of blue, white and black and it is going to be water cooled, and i will also do a build log! I would also like to know if the XSPC Photon 270 tube reservoir would fit on the reservoir bracket.
> 
> List of the builds component and WC loop are in this site: http://pcpartpicker.com/user/Pokechrizx7/saved/Yrytt6
> 
> Also the information from Steelart of the Primochill tubing with Mayhems pastel coolant really helped me because i was going to use clear Primochill tubing with Mayhems pastel blue berry concentrate for my build. And would anybody know any good tubing i could use with my Mayhems pastel blue berry concentrate? since i'm not going to use the Primochill anymore
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks in advance!


I believe you will need to drill some holes onto the bracket, but that won't be your biggest problem, the res bracket of the primo will limit your GFX card choose and you might find yourself not having enough room for longer cards.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

I fastened a Photon 270 to the bracket with Industrial Strength Velcro. The ~72mm diameter glass tube might prove to be too wide for longer GPUs though. I think it'll fit but it will be tight. You'd have an easier time fitting a normal 60mm wide res.

Might want to ask @JackNaylorPE for advice about fitting two ASUS 780 DCIIs in the Primo. I think that's what cards he has and somehow managed to fit both of them without having to mod the res bracket, but just barely. IIRC it came down to putting them in the top slots on his mobo and exactly what blocks he put on them. He's the only one I recall seeing be able to fit two 10.5" long PCB cards in the Primo with the res bracket that didn't need to take a dremel and nibble a notch out of the lower part of the bracket for the lower GPU to fit.


----------



## WHIMington

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> I fastened a Photon 270 to the bracket with Industrial Strength Velcro. The ~72mm diameter glass tube might prove to be too wide for longer GPUs though. I think it'll fit but it will be tight. You'd have an easier time fitting a normal 60mm wide res.
> 
> Might want to ask @JackNaylorPE for advice about fitting two ASUS 780 DCIIs in the Primo. I think that's what cards he has and somehow managed to fit both of them without having to mod the res bracket, but just barely. IIRC it came down to putting them in the top slots on his mobo and exactly what blocks he put on them. He's the only one I recall seeing be able to fit two 10.5" long PCB cards in the Primo with the res bracket that didn't need to take a dremel and nibble a notch out of the lower part of the bracket for the lower GPU to fit.


Yeah the 72 diameter of the photon really is a pain to fit in, my built is currently limited to cards no longer then 254mm.


----------



## Mumbles37

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WHIMington*
> 
> Yeah the 72 diameter of the photon really is a pain to fit in, my built is currently limited to cards no longer then 265mm.


I'm not 100% sure on the Primo, but I got the 270 Photon to fit in my Luxe by removing the rear 140mm fan and attaching it to the rear grill of the case above (well, more literally next to) my graphics card. I can't do push pull with my 360 rad up top, at least in the rear-most position, but it fits well with just some screws and nuts.


----------



## CrunchyElementZ

Would a Ek X3 250 reservoir fit in the bracket? Also the motherboard i am using is the Asus x99 deluxe with a 5930k. So that means i would have to use the first and fourth pcie slots for the graphics cards, and i have seen some Enthoo Primo builds that use the same graphics cards as mine and they fit perfect with the reservoir bracket installed. The only thing i am concerned about is that if my reservoir will fit in the reservoir bracket.


----------



## laxboimike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CrunchyElementZ*
> 
> Would a Ek X3 250 reservoir fit in the bracket? Also the motherboard i am using is the Asus x99 deluxe with a 5930k. So that means i would have to use the first and fourth pcie slots for the graphics cards, and i have seen some Enthoo Primo builds that use the same graphics cards as mine and they fit perfect with the reservoir bracket installed. The only thing i am concerned about is that if my reservoir will fit in the reservoir bracket.


I use a EK x3 250 it fits perfectly and looks great, I posted a picture a few pages back if you want to take a look.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CrunchyElementZ*
> 
> Would a Ek X3 250 reservoir fit in the bracket? Also the motherboard i am using is the Asus x99 deluxe with a 5930k. So that means i would have to use the first and fourth pcie slots for the graphics cards, and i have seen some Enthoo Primo builds that use the same graphics cards as mine and they fit perfect with the reservoir bracket installed. The only thing i am concerned about is that if my reservoir will fit in the reservoir bracket.


Here's a few pics I snapped a while back measuring the length of GPU that can fit without modding the bracket and with a Photon res:



^ The 'ledge' in that pic is at the bottom of the 5.25" bays and it's what will limit how far you can move a reservoir over to the right on the bracket.



^ And that's with the Photon all the way to the right as far as it will go on the bracket leaving 10.5" max length for GPU(s).

And here's a post from JackNaylor who has ASUS DCIIs in SLI and just barely managed to clear the lower part of the bracket with his ASUS MVIF board. If he'd have bought a full cover block that came to the end of the PCB it wouldn't have fit:
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Snip
> 
> 
> 
> Again.... on my top 420 rad, I used screws to hold it up in the air.....if I didn't it would fall down on my components
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .....If I was installing in the bottom, I think I'd let gravity do the holding
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The screws work fine in the fans. I like the socket head screws byt I think Alphacool should:
> 
> 1. Give ya 4 copper washers for each 120/140 of rad
> 2. Give ya 8 copper screws of each size for each 120/140 of rad.
> 
> But I can't blame Phanteks for that, that's on Alphacool..... but all the rad manufacturers are guilty of item 2
> 
> So if it's snug enough on one side that ya scraped off paint, I assume you have an extra 20mm of space on the other side ?
> 
> I also removed the grommets BTW when installing the 140mm wide UT60.....out them back in though afterwards.
> The EK 780 block fits with only one of the two acetal blocks..... ya want the "no circles one.
> 
> GPU Water Block - EK ASUS GeForce 780 GTX DCII VGA Liquid Cooling Block - Nickel (EK-FC780 GTX DCII - Nickel)
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/21270/ex-blc-1529/EK_ASUS_GeForce_780_GTX_DCII_VGA_Liquid_Cooling_Block_-_Nickel_EK-FC780_GTX_DCII_-_Nickel.html?tl=c613s1928b133
> 
> GPU Water Block Backplate - EK ASUS GeForce 780 GTX DCII VGA Liquid Cooling RAM Backplate - Black CSQ (EK-FC780 GTX DCII Backplate - Black)
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/21273/ex-blc-1532/EK_ASUS_GeForce_780_GTX_DCII_VGA_Liquid_Cooling_RAM_Backplate_-_Black_CSQ_EK-FC780_GTX_DCII_Backplate_-_Black.html?tl=c613s1928b133
> 
> While both are "full cover", the no circles" one leaves teh last inch of the board uncovered
> 
> 
> 
> The one with the EK circles on it goes all the way to the end and will hit the bracket if installed in Slot No. 5 (Covering Slots Nos 5 & 6)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the pic installed with the "no circles" block with an M6F
> 
> 
> 
> And here's the layout on the MoBo
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Snip
> 
> 
> 
> The Reference TI ones look just like the Asus 780 ones except the top is all acrylic
> 
> 
> Prolly also saved 120mm of rad too per card
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Should be noted again that Phanteks is working on "Res Bracket 2.0". Dunno when they be done tho.
> It's in the manual (pg 25)....also see Jesse's FAQ on ModZoo ....a 45mm think rad will fit behind the front fans with the HD caged in the "back" position
> 
> Id recommend a 420 on top unless ya already have the 360.
> 
> I don;t know why using the provided fans would be unorthadox....they kick ass.....last year SPCR tested the field and the 120mm fans romped over the 140s....this year the 140s took the top 5 outta 5 spots with the Phanteks fan at the top of the list. I am showing a delta T of 10C with 4770k at 4.6GHz, pump at 25% speed, and twin 780s w/ a 32% overclock ...... and a "grand total" of 5 Phanteks rad fans. I had planned on 10, but just installed them in push so far on the 420 and 280. Given the 10C I see no reason to get the pull fans.
> 
> I would not use inside the case fans to cool ya rads....why use hot air ?
> 
> Right now I have (2) Front going in, (5) Rad going in, (2) right side going out, (1) rear going out. Under stress testing water temp is 31.2, ambient is 21.2 .... I didn't have case temp sensor hooked up while testing but right now it's same temp as 2nd Rad Out @ 24.8
> 
> Here's the review which was done on large air coolers, which if anything put a higher SP on fans with thier tight fin spacing than they'll see on todays 11-12 fpi rads
> 
> http://www.silentpcreview.com/article1345-page7.html
> 
> Phantels beat both the Gentle Typhoons and the Corsair SP 120's
> 
> Positive pressure is a "red herring" ..... I never worry about it .... much more simply put.....as long as ya have filters on all air inlets (whether they be fans or grilles) , you won't accumulate dust. Besides with all ya rad fans blowing in, you will definitely have positive pressure.
> 
> Not that the Phanteks SP140 fans (25mm) that come with the case and the Phanteks SP140s ones ya buy extra (27mm) are not the same thickness....so don't mix the two on same side of Rad ..... if ya use say a 280 on the bottom, put the two fans under there so it don't wobble or mount them on the right side panel and use new 140 mm fans for on the rads.....The thickness difference is caused by the vibration isolators which the boxed fans have. As an alternate to buying new If ya B & M (***** and moan) to Phanteks, they prolly send ya some
> Sure, see page 25 of the manual.... 45mm thick fits.
> See above pic.... if the Ti uses the EK 780 WB, 1 of the 3 blocks they make for the DCII (which has longer PCB) fits. A 10.5" long card will fit with 7mm to spare with a 60mm res..... with SLI'd card in Expansion Slot Nos 5 and 6
> In every review I have read, the Phanteks came out on top..... tho it is a water cooler's case, it will do just fine with up to 16 fan mounts (not counting the PSU).


----------



## demps709

What's the fastest way to get in touch with Phantek's? I just received my Luxe today and the accessory box got lose and scratched the inside of my window. I'm also missing one of the SSD brackets.


----------



## semitope

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *demps709*
> 
> What's the fastest way to get in touch with Phantek's? I just received my Luxe today and the accessory box got lose and scratched the inside of my window. I'm also missing one of the SSD brackets.


was worried about that box when i saw it in pictures. Didn't seem all that secure


----------



## demps709

Yea I saw a few that turned out like this so I wasn't surprised. They didn't secure the box, screws for the side panels, and didn't have plastic covering the inside of the window, only the outside. Case build quality and features are amazing, packaging sucks.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *demps709*
> 
> What's the fastest way to get in touch with Phantek's? I just received my Luxe today and the accessory box got lose and scratched the inside of my window. I'm also missing one of the SSD brackets.


Unfortunately quite a few people have had that issue with the box scratching the window and at least one other had reported only getting one SSD bracket. Asking for support questions for Phanteks will differ depending on what country you live in.

In the US:
There is a 'live chat' option in the lower right corner here (not always available):
http://www.phanteks.com/#&panel1-1&panel2-1

US support contact options are here: http://www.phanteks.com/requestform.html


----------



## demps709

+Rep, thanks yea I left a message on the live chat. =/ The bad thing is that the scratched window is so preventable.


----------



## Tunz

They were really quick in replacing my cloudy primo window. I sent them an email and had a tracking number the next day, and the new window the day after.


----------



## WHIMington

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mumbles37*
> 
> I'm not 100% sure on the Primo, but I got the 270 Photon to fit in my Luxe by removing the rear 140mm fan and attaching it to the rear grill of the case above (well, more literally next to) my graphics card. I can't do push pull with my 360 rad up top, at least in the rear-most position, but it fits well with just some screws and nuts.


From this image you can see how tight the fit are with my luxe
The maximum I could fit in is a 680, removing the backing plate gives me an extra few mm to spare, and that gives me room to fit an extra 140 rad at the back, yes I also have to saw the bottom of the res bracket off to gain access for my tubings, and yes I will yield better results if I add a 1/8 inch thick aluminium sheets to replace the backing plate, but I am amazed about how few works you need to fit this much stuff into this case.


----------



## CrunchyElementZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Here's a few pics I snapped a while back measuring the length of GPU that can fit without modding the bracket and with a Photon res:
> 
> 
> 
> ^ The 'ledge' in that pic is at the bottom of the 5.25" bays and it's what will limit how far you can move a reservoir over to the right on the bracket.
> 
> 
> 
> ^ And that's with the Photon all the way to the right as far as it will go on the bracket leaving 10.5" max length for GPU(s).
> 
> And here's a post from JackNaylor who has ASUS DCIIs in SLI and just barely managed to clear the lower part of the bracket with his ASUS MVIF board. If he'd have bought a full cover block that came to the end of the PCB it wouldn't have fit:


Thanks for the info man, this helped me out a lot!


----------



## schoolofmonkey

Hey guys.

Got a quick question, what's the best way to exhaust a RAD out the bottom of a Primo?

I've installed a Kraken G10 with a Kraken x60, now I've already got a H110 mounted on the top of the case (won't reach anywhere else).
So the only place I can put the Kraken's RAD is on the bottom, at the moment its intake, and as we know a GPU RAD gets hotter than a CPU RAD.
I did try exhausting but the hot air would pool under the case and would draw air away from the rest of the stuff up higher.

Any ideas/tips where and best way to stick 2 280mm RAD's?


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

There is no 'best way' to mount a rad other than what works best for you.

I'd probably first try to mount both the top and the bottom rads as intake, and with both front fans as intake also that would leave only the back unfiltered fan as exhaust. Keep in mind that one back fan unfiltered will equal out the airflow of ~3 fans of the same size/speed pulling through the restriction of filters and a rad, plus all the rest of the filtered positive pressure air would have plenty of places to escape especially unimpeded through all the open unfiltered grill on the back panel and pci slot covers, the 140mm vents on the right side panel (might as well take the filter off of them), any unfilled 5.25" bay covers, and the unfilled fan locations in the top and bottom.

Take that for a trial spin and see what your temps are like, then if you're not sure that's working best for you then you can always flip one or both rads as exhaust and see what kind of difference it makes for you.


----------



## schoolofmonkey

This is the setup at the moment.
I've got the front intakes, as well as a second set of fans moving the airflow better.
There is also a 140mm fan in the 5.25" bay as well.
Please excuse the cables, still trialing things, will cable manage better when I'm happy with the setup..lol

http://s1294.photobucket.com/user/schoolofmonkey2/media/20140909_175309_zpsc18cab5d.jpg.html


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

I think you'll be fine like you have it. There may be a little of the heated air from the bottom intake rad making it to the top exhaust rad, which would be less than ideal, but with as much fannage as you have blowing from front to back especially with the GPU acting as a large baffle in the middle of the case I suspect almost all of the bottom rad exhaust is getting pushed out the back of the case before it has a chance to make it to the top. Looks like you have plenty of filtered positive pressure air to minimize dust. Unless you think your temps are suffering or having some problem with it then it looks 'Win!' enough to me.


----------



## Spork13

I became a proud owner of an Enthoo Pro today.
First case I have bought for quite a while.
Not as solid as my old case - http://www.pcper.com/reviews/Cases-and-Cooling/Cooler-Master-Praetorian-730-Mid-Tower-Case but still good quality, and should have fantastic cable management compared to old one.
I think the new build will be easier than the last one, and if I decide to add water sometime there is lots of room.


----------



## schoolofmonkey

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> I think you'll be fine like you have it. There may be a little of the heated air from the bottom intake rad making it to the top exhaust rad, which would be less than ideal, but with as much fannage as you have blowing from front to back especially with the GPU acting as a large baffle in the middle of the case I suspect almost all of the bottom rad exhaust is getting pushed out the back of the case before it has a chance to make it to the top. Looks like you have plenty of filtered positive pressure air to minimize dust. Unless you think your temps are suffering or having some problem with it then it looks 'Win!' enough to me.


I wouldn't call it suffering as per say, yes they are up a little.
The 4790k can hit 60c while playing Watch_Dogs, but that's max temp.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *schoolofmonkey*
> 
> I wouldn't call it suffering as per say, yes they are up a little.
> The 4790k can hit 60c while playing Watch_Dogs, but that's max temp.


Might try raising case up on some 35-40mm blocks and see if that improves airflow to bottom. Some of us have noticed an improvement.


----------



## ciarlatano

Enthoo Luxe review is up at HTL:

http://www.hitechlegion.com/reviews/cases/41463-phanteks-enthoo-luxe-full-tower-case-review





The Luxe is astounding. I'm actually tempted to move out of my Primo into it.


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Raising the case up like Doyll suggested is a good idea. Keep the bottom radiator as exhaust, you want that hot air from the rad out of your system not going into it. You could even add some tiny USB powered fans to help blow the air being exhausted from the bottom radiator away.

A product like this:
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B002NVC1DS?psc=1


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Enthoo Luxe review is up at HTL:
> 
> http://www.hitechlegion.com/reviews/cases/41463-phanteks-enthoo-luxe-full-tower-case-review
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The Luxe is astounding. I'm actually tempted to move out of my Primo into it.


Great review. Thanks.


----------



## makn

Here is my enthoo primo. Waiting for the g10 kraken


----------



## Dorito Bandit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spork13*
> 
> I became a proud owner of an Enthoo Pro today.
> First case I have bought for quite a while.
> Not as solid as my old case - http://www.pcper.com/reviews/Cases-and-Cooling/Cooler-Master-Praetorian-730-Mid-Tower-Case but still good quality, and should have fantastic cable management compared to old one.
> I think the new build will be easier than the last one, and if I decide to add water sometime there is lots of room.


Congrats on your new case! I am sure you're going to love it. Post some pics of your build when done.

Oh, and welcome to the forums.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *makn*
> 
> Here is my enthoo primo. Waiting for the g10 kraken
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Looks good, bro! Really nice!


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Enthoo Luxe review is up at HTL:
> 
> http://www.hitechlegion.com/reviews/cases/41463-phanteks-enthoo-luxe-full-tower-case-review
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The Luxe is astounding. I'm actually tempted to move out of my Primo into it.


You could make a drinking game out of that video.

Drink every time he says:
Tinker Toy
Like I said
As you can see

You will be %^&*-faced.


----------



## shilka

Just got my Phanteks Enthoo Luxe today


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> Just got my Phanteks Enthoo Luxe today


welcome aboard Shilka!


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PureBlackFire*
> 
> welcome aboard Shilka!


Thanks its been a very long wait but the Luxe did not show up here in Denmark untill last week, am going to move everything from the HAF X over to the Luxe tomorrow i dont have time today.


----------



## Jai1985

Could someone help me figure out a tubing layout for 3 - 240mm rads using hard tubing? I would like 2 of the rads to be in the top of the case and the third to be in the bottom or side of the case.


----------



## Jai1985

The cpu and gpu will be cooled. I am using a xspc photon 270 and a xspc dual 5.25 bay res with my D5 in the bay res.


----------



## Fickle Pickle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> Just got my Phanteks Enthoo Luxe today


Have fun with the build. THe Luxe is by far the best case I've ever owned. It does everything well and looks good doing it.

Oh, by the way, is that the Zeta Gundam in your profile? Because well, Titans > A.E.U.G. =)


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fickle Pickle*
> 
> Have fun with the build. THe Luxe is by far the best case I've ever owned. It does everything well and looks good doing it.
> 
> Oh, by the way, is that the Zeta Gundam in your profile? Because well, Titans > A.E.U.G. =)


Yes its the Zeta Gundam.


----------



## WHIMington

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jai1985*
> 
> Could someone help me figure out a tubing layout for 3 - 240mm rads using hard tubing? I would like 2 of the rads to be in the top of the case and the third to be in the bottom or side of the case.


First of all, which case you are talking about?


----------



## Spork13

Threw my new rig together today.
Love it when everything "just works"...
Still another HDD to purchase and fit, some different coloured fans for the big Noctua cooler, add a sleeved extension to the main ATX power to go, but really pleased with it so far.

POST passed 1st time. Ram was soon running @ 2400mHz (BIOS is so easy on the ROG board after my old X48...).
Windows installed on the system drive.\
GPU and driver added.
2nd GPU added.
Quick tidy up of the cables (plan to do more with them soon)
Time to rest, tweak and tune.









Pix:

All working, no tidying up yet:


Quick tidy up - time to play:


This case was just so bloody easy to build in.
This is only 2nd PC I have done (although have re-done, added, changed stuff in old one numerous times) and in a fairly short time I ended up with something I'm actually quite happy with - maybe even a little proud of.

Thankyou Phanteks!


----------



## Dorito Bandit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spork13*
> 
> Threw my new rig together today.
> Love it when everything "just works"...
> Still another HDD to purchase and fit, some different coloured fans for the big Noctua cooler, add a sleeved extension to the main ATX power to go, but really pleased with it so far.
> 
> POST passed 1st time. Ram was soon running @ 2400mHz (BIOS is so easy on the ROG board after my old X48...).
> Windows installed on the system drive.\
> GPU and driver added.
> 2nd GPU added.
> Quick tidy up of the cables (plan to do more with them soon)
> Time to rest, tweak and tune.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Pix:
> 
> All working, no tidying up yet:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quick tidy up - time to play:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This case was just so bloody easy to build in.
> This is only 2nd PC I have done (although have re-done, added, changed stuff in old one numerous times) and in a fairly short time I ended up with something I'm actually quite happy with - maybe even a little proud of.
> 
> Thankyou Phanteks!


Glad you like the case and you should be proud, that's a beautiful build my friend! Let's see some more pics!


----------



## Accursed Entity

I find it so pleasant to look at builds with those cases(Pro/Luxe).


----------



## SteelArt

Another quick teaser from my new build:



That's Asus Maximus VII Formula with painted armor, XSPC CPU waterblock (painted as well), Core i7 4790K Devils Canyon and Geil 2x8GB EVO Potenza.

I hope to finish with the tubing today or tomorrow and with cable sleeving on the next week.


----------



## Jai1985

Enthoo Primo


----------



## WHIMington

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jai1985*
> 
> Enthoo Primo


Since you have 2 Res, make a dual loop

Bay Res combo and top 240 as the cpu loop, while front and bottom rad with the photons 270 form the gpu loop, that way you will minimum trouble.


----------



## Jai1985

Good idea. I onnly have the on D5 though? How would I do a dual loop that way?


----------



## WHIMington

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jai1985*
> 
> Good idea. I onnly have the on D5 though? How would I do a dual loop that way?


Clearly you will need another pump for the gpu loop, if you are looking for a cheaper pump you may want to try the swiftech new mcp50x, but since the pump is new I am not sure how good or reliable it is.


----------



## bond32

I have 2xMCP50X pumps coming in Friday. It provides more head pressure than the MCP35x and costs a good bit less. Only downside I can see so far is the lack of being able to change the pump top.


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Accursed Entity*
> 
> I find it so pleasant to look at builds with those cases(Pro/Luxe).





http://imgur.com/HAvt5


----------



## shilka

A small update, PSU has been installed and all the cable management is done.



LOL! just saw that the Phanteks name bage is upside down.


----------



## Redeye247

Hi all, new here and I am in the process at looking to buy the Primo! I have a question regarding the rad sizes. I have, or I am going to have two Monsta rads, one is the 360 and the other is a 240, both are 80mm thick. So the question I have is, will these two big boys fit in the Primo? Ideally I wanted to have one in the roof, though as I understand the max thickness is 70mm, so I assume that one will not fit up there, so I wanted to know if I can have one 240 at the front and the 360 on the floor? I don't necessarily want or desire a push pull at the moment, as the rads will only be cooling my 2500k and a GTX 780, and given that they have a low FPI, fans in a push config is all that I require for now. So would this work in this case?


----------



## shilka

This might be a stupid question but how do you hook up the lights in the Luxe? i cant get my lights to work at all.


----------



## Accursed Entity

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PureBlackFire*
> 
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/HAvt5


That... is beautiful. Rep+!


----------



## shilka

Never mind i found how it works,


Yes i know the cable management suck so dont tell me about it.


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Accursed Entity*
> 
> That... is beautiful. Rep+!


thanks.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> Never mind i found how it works,
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yes i know the cable management suck so dont tell me about it.


fix them cables up


----------



## Dorito Bandit

*Phanteks Enthoo Luxe*

Here's some new videos of the Enthoo Luxe for you guys. If you're like me, you can't get enough of these videos.


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PureBlackFire*
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/2167863/width/500/height/1000[/IMG]
> 660#post_22826579"]
> thanks.
> fix them cables up


I just did a rush job to see if the PC would turn on, am going to redo it later as the 24 pin needs to go out the top hole.
Is this better now?


----------



## Akima18

Hi Everyone!

I'm thinking about purchasing one of the cases on the Phanteks Enthoo line (at the moment I am leaning towards the Luxe) so that I can build a water cooled case.
This is my first time ever making one, so please bear with me if I say something that makes no sense.

My questions are: (I posted a similar message in the H220-X thread, I hope it is okay)

1) Does anyone have any experience with the H220-X and one of the Enthoo cases? I was thinking about trying to mount the H220-X (It is a 240mm radiator/reservoir/pump combo) on the front of the case so that I could mount an additional 360mm / 420mm radiator on the top of the case!

2) In additional to these two radiators, would I also be able to add another 240mm radiator to the bottom of the case as-well? Or would this really be overkill for my setup? (Two GTX 670's in SLI, possibly two of the new 900 series when they are released, plus cooling a 3570k)

3) If this IS possible and I mount the 240mm radiator in the front and one on top, would I have any room for 1 HDD? I know there are two SSD slot's on the side of the case, but could I somehow put the HDD somewhere like in the 5.25 bay area? (I won't have anything there).

Any other advice would be greatly appreciated! I am entirely new to water-cooling and have done some research, but am hoping possibly some people have been in a similar situation and could give me advice on what my optimal route would be!

Thanks so much!


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

I absolutely love my Enthoo Pro, but the more I see of the Luxe, the more I wish I had spent the extra $50.

#PhanteksMasterRaceProblems


----------



## Scorpion49

Well, I got my Luxe today, in white. Very happy with most of it, my windows are of course scratched on the inside like every other Phanteks case out there (I had the Primo when it first came out and it had the same issue). Overall nothing much to complain about, although the fans are incredibly loud. With my motherboards CPU header on the "silent" setting they still run at full blast so I'll have to solve that at some point. I double checked and made sure I had the RPM sense plug populated but it doesn't make a lick of difference. I may have to ditch the fan block for some 7V resistors to quiet this puppy down.

I was going to get the extra light strip for the inside but I decided to use my NZXT Hue instead, looks great although it oversaturates my cell phone camera pretty badly.


----------



## Jeemil89

Hi guys! Just got the Phanteks Enthoo Pro, and loving it so far!


I'm upgrading parts soon. I will do a black/yellow themed build in this case.


----------



## shilka

Am i the only one that find the front 200mm is not very good? am going to throw it away and replace it with 2 more Noctua NF-A14 FLX fans might buy 4 and replace the 2 fans in the top with Noctua fans as well.


----------



## Scorpion49

So I decided to get creative solving my noisy fans problem. I do have a fan controller, but I didn't want to use it because it was silver. So I decided to be clever with it, once I removed the rails for the top HDD cage that I'm not using I was able to slide it in backwards. Problem solved, invisible fan controller running the 140's at 800rpm and the 200mm at 600rpm, now the system is barely audible.


----------



## Jeemil89

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> Am i the only one that find the front 200mm is not very good? am going to throw it away and replace it with 2 more Noctua NF-A14 FLX fans might buy 4 and replace the 2 fans in the top with Noctua fans as well.


Yeah I noticed it was a bit noisy, but I'm running it through the PWM hub, so the noise level is fine now. I will probably replace it also, but it fills the gap at the hdd cover so nicely


----------



## leo5111

can the Enthoo Pro fit a neptune 280l cooler up top?


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *leo5111*
> 
> can the Enthoo Pro fit a neptune 280l cooler up top?


easily.


----------



## leo5111

is there mounting holes for it? thanks


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *leo5111*
> 
> is there mounting holes for it? thanks


yes. here is a picture of the top:



the red circles show the holes for 280/420 rad.


----------



## Spork13

Better than holes - there are slots, so you can move it forward or backward to get the fit "just right".


----------



## leo5111

kewl


----------



## leo5111

is the top of the case hard to take off to mount the rad? thanks


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *leo5111*
> 
> is the top of the case hard to take off to mount the rad? thanks


maybe give this a watch:


----------



## Phantatsy

Anyone know when the special editions will be released? I really want the black & white one but I don't want to be waiting forever. Maybe I'll just get a Luxe.


----------



## Accursed Entity

Watch the videos and hurry up buy the case, beautiful case! Today I finally saw one in person(Pro), better than the pictures PERIOD


----------



## Phantatsy

If it's the same as the Primo you just pull it off.


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

I kind of like the included 200mm fan. No, it isn't the best and I will probably replace it with 2x Cougar Vortex PWM fans that I already have, but for an included 200mm fan, it isn't bad at all, and it has respectable SP for a 200mm fan.


----------



## CrunchyElementZ

Hi, would it be possible if i can fit a Alphacool NexXxoS UT60 480 radiator on top of the Enthoo Primo in push/pull with a Asus x99 deluxe motherboard installed?

Thanks in advance!


----------



## Spork13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phantatsy*
> 
> Anyone know when the special editions will be released? I really want the black & white one but I don't want to be waiting forever. Maybe I'll just get a Luxe.


Buy a white one and a can (or two) of spray paint?
As they are mostly screwed together it would be easy to disassemble, paint and reassemble.
Be the first to have a super limited release (of one!) colour.


----------



## Jeemil89

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spork13*
> 
> Buy a white one and a can (or two) of spray paint?
> As they are mostly screwed together it would be easy to disassemble, paint and reassemble.
> Be the first to have a super limited release (of one!) colour.


I would recommend Plasti Dip instead. It's durable, super easy to apply and can be removed if you want to sell the case for example.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> Am i the only one that find the front 200mm is not very good? am going to throw it away and replace it with 2 more Noctua NF-A14 FLX fans might buy 4 and replace the 2 fans in the top with Noctua fans as well.


I don't think it's so much the fan as the framework in opening it is mounted in creating excessive resistance and causing both loss of airflow and noise. Was one of the first things I noticed about the case. I don't usually criticize Enthoo cases, but do think that mounting panel should have been an accessory piece tto be installed when 120 / 140mm radiators / fans were used.


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> I don't think it's so much the fan as the framework in opening it is mounted in creating excessive resistance and causing both loss of airflow and noise. Was one of the first things I noticed about the case. I don't usually criticize Enthoo cases, but do think that mounting panel should have been an accessory piece tto be installed when 120 / 140mm radiators / fans were used.


Am going to replace it with 2x 140mm fans instead.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> Am going to replace it with 2x 140mm fans instead.


Should be much better then the 200mm fan. More pressure and CFM.








PH-F140SP fans?


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Should be much better then the 200mm fan. More pressure and CFM.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> PH-F140SP fans?


No i was thinking Noctua NF-A14 FLX fans since i already have one and like it every much, it moves enough while still being quiet enough so its perfect, the PH-F140SP fans on ther other hand is a little bit more loud and they dont seem to move that much more air.


----------



## Scorpion49

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> No i was thinking Noctua NF-A14 FLX fans since i already have one and like it every much, it moves enough while still being quiet enough so its perfect, the PH-F140SP fans on ther other hand is a little bit more loud and they dont seem to move that much more air.


I have one of the NF-P14S Redux fans and I was thinking about getting a couple more to replace the ones in this case, that fan is quieter at 1200RPM than the Phanteks ones are at 600.


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scorpion49*
> 
> I have one of the NF-P14S Redux fans and I was thinking about getting a couple more to replace the ones in this case, that fan is quieter at 1200RPM than the Phanteks ones are at 600.


The Noctua P series has higher air flow but lower static pressure Vs then the Noctua A and F series which has higher static pressure but lower air flow, since it needs to get air through a filter and then through a HDD cage i am going to go with higher static pressure instead of higher air flow.
If you are going to get fans for the front and you dont want them to run at max get an A or F series Noctua fan instead.


----------



## jeffblute

I am really looking forward to the Evolv case, I was thinking of going with the Fractal Design Mini. But after seeing some videos in this thread I might be changing my mind


----------



## bigaza2151

Just got the enthoo pro set up last night and i have a couple questions regarding the fan hub. Apologies in advance but my case didnt come with a manual and until now my previous cases fan control were very different

is there a fan control switch on the case? Or once i get the hub correctly configured is this all done via software or the bios

Im fairly sure i have it hooked up wrong because in my bios its just showing all fans as 0 rpm, the only fan i can seem to control is the antec 950 cou cooler through the antec software that came with it. Should i be hooking up my cpu cooler into the hub or just leave it in the mobo as normal? I did see a diagram in here somewhere but it was a lil unclear still


----------



## Dorito Bandit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bigaza2151*
> 
> Just got the enthoo pro set up last night and i have a couple questions regarding the fan hub. Apologies in advance but my case didnt come with a manual and until now my previous cases fan control were very different
> 
> is there a fan control switch on the case? Or once i get the hub correctly configured is this all done via software or the bios
> 
> Im fairly sure i have it hooked up wrong because in my bios its just showing all fans as 0 rpm, the only fan i can seem to control is the antec 950 cou cooler through the antec software that came with it. Should i be hooking up my cpu cooler into the hub or just leave it in the mobo as normal? I did see a diagram in here somewhere but it was a lil unclear still


Here is a link to the pdf version of the manual http://www.phanteks.com/assets/manuals/Enthoo-Pro.pdf

Welcome to the forums!


----------



## bigaza2151

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dorito Bandit*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *bigaza2151*
> 
> Just got the enthoo pro set up last night and i have a couple questions regarding the fan hub. Apologies in advance but my case didnt come with a manual and until now my previous cases fan control were very different
> 
> is there a fan control switch on the case? Or once i get the hub correctly configured is this all done via software or the bios
> 
> Im fairly sure i have it hooked up wrong because in my bios its just showing all fans as 0 rpm, the only fan i can seem to control is the antec 950 cou cooler through the antec software that came with it. Should i be hooking up my cpu cooler into the hub or just leave it in the mobo as normal? I did see a diagram in here somewhere but it was a lil unclear still
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a link to the pdf version of the manual http://www.phanteks.com/assets/manuals/Enthoo-Pro.pdf
> 
> Welcome to the forums!
Click to expand...

Yes ive looked through that and its pretty vague but thankyou, glad to be here!


----------



## WhitePrQjser

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> I don't think it's so much the fan as the framework in opening it is mounted in creating excessive resistance and causing both loss of airflow and noise. Was one of the first things I noticed about the case. I don't usually criticize Enthoo cases, but do think that mounting panel should have been an accessory piece tto be installed when 120 / 140mm radiators / fans were used.


I didn't even realize that the front fan was so bad. Now I have to move the air through the HDD cages, and I was considering a few options:

*Option 1:* Replace the 200 mm. front fan with a spare 180 mm. Silverstone Air Penetrator fan

*Option 2:* Replace the 200 mm. front fan with 2x 120 mm. Swiftech Helix fans

*Option 3:* Replace the 200 mm. front fan with 2x 140 mm. Arctic Cooling F14 fans

*Option 4:* Replace the 200 mm. front fan with the rear 140 mm. Phanteks PH-F140SP case fan + a second Phanteks PH-F140SP

Which one would push the air through better? I already have mounted an Arctic Cooling F12 fan on the HDD cage.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WhitePrQjser*
> 
> I didn't even realize that the front fan was so bad. Now I have to move the air through the HDD cages, and I was considering a few options:
> 
> *Option 1:* Replace the 200 mm. front fan with a spare 180 mm. Silverstone Air Penetrator fan
> 
> *Option 2:* Replace the 200 mm. front fan with 2x 120 mm. Swiftech Helix fans
> 
> *Option 3:* Replace the 200 mm. front fan with 2x 140 mm. Arctic Cooling F14 fans
> 
> *Option 4:* Replace the 200 mm. front fan with the rear 140 mm. Phanteks PH-F140SP case fan + a second Phanteks PH-F140SP
> 
> Which one would push the air through better? I already have mounted an Arctic Cooling F12 fan on the HDD cage.


*Option 1* Don't think it would give any improvement. The stock PH-F200SP is not a bad fan.

*Option 2* Wold work, but 140mm fans usually move more air with same or less noise.

*Option 3* If you have the 2x Arctic F14 fans, try them. Should do a good job of it.

*Option 4* A good option, but more costly.

Much depends on what components you will have in your case and what airflow they need. Second link in sig is about optimizing case airflow.


----------



## WhitePrQjser

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> *Option 1* Don't think it would give any improvement. The stock PH-F200SP is not a bad fan.
> 
> *Option 2* Wold work, but 140mm fans usually move more air with same or less noise.
> 
> *Option 3* If you have the 2x Arctic F14 fans, try them. Should do a good job of it.
> 
> *Option 4* A good option, but more costly.
> 
> Much depends on what components you will have in your case and what airflow they need. Second link in sig is about optimizing case airflow.


So far the cheapest solution would be to get a second PH-F140SP fan, or keep the 200 mm. I don't have the F14, but I do have the 140 mm. fan that came with the Pro.


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WhitePrQjser*
> 
> So far the cheapest solution would be to get a second PH-F140SP fan, or keep the 200 mm. I don't have the F14, but I do have the 140 mm. fan that came with the Pro.


Why not send an email to coolerkit.dk or call them if they dont have the fan(s) you need/want.
Asked about the PH-F140SP before and they said they could order it, dont know about the price.


----------



## WhitePrQjser

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> Why not send an email to coolerkit.dk or call them if they dont have the fan(s) you need/want.
> Asked about the PH-F140SP before and they said they could order it, dont know about the price.


I could do that. I would need 2x of the F14 from them, so that'd be more expensive than 1x PH-F140SP of course. I also need some Swiftech Helix fans from them anyway.


----------



## doyll

I understand price problems. I don't know about there, but here in UK Thermalright TY-147 fans are about £6.00 or 7.50 Euro. If you can get them for similar price there, they are a very good fan worth much more. Arctic F14 are £6.95 here. By comparison PH-F140SP are £11.98


----------



## Spork13

While we are talking phans...
My Mb has 2 x CPU fan headers, so CPU fans run off one via a splitter, and the 2nd runs the fan hub.
While this might be best for "extreme" cooling (ie: a bunch of radiators etc) it isn't ideal for my everyday use, as the CPU (4790k) is a hot one and the fans if running PWM spend a lot of time @ high speeds (and noise!) Neither BIOS or the MB software allows for individual tuning of the 2 x CPU headers. I don't mind the fand on the big Noctua spinning hard when they need to, but don't think it achieves much having every fan in th case throttling up and down constantly.
I think in the near future I'll try running the case fans off separate MB fan headers so I can tune each one individually either in BIOS or from the ROG fan control utility to the fastest speed I can while keeping them inaudible, or at least so quiet I can't notice them over the CPU and GPU fans. I guess "low noise" 5v adapters run from the hub, while keeping it powered by the PWM CPU header might also work?
Re: HDD cages - read a comparison (can't recall where - Toms or Anandteck probably) which showed the Pro had much better cooling, esp. the GPU's, with cages removed. I do have a mechanical storage drive, as well as SSD for OS and one for tanks, so only removed one cage. When I win lotto, or when 2TD SSD's cost < $400 I will do away with mech. drives, but until then...\

Couple of questions for the knowledgeable people:
-Can I paint fans without it affecting their performance? I have a Noctua NH-D15, with baby-poo brown fans in what is otherwise a fairly nice, colour co-ordinated build. These are "good" fans, I just hate the colour. Would they work well as intake fans on the front of the case to replace the 200mm stock one? That way I could avoid having to paint them.
-What 140mm PWM fan would you suggest I replace the Noctuas with (assuming I move them instead of painting them)? I'm not too fussed as to brand, and happy to pay $ for best quality (low noise, good CFM and static pressure). No LED's required, and would prefer either black and white, or all black or all white, to match the rest of my build.
-I can fit 3 x 140mm fans in the top of my case, and a 120 or 140 in the bottom front. Pretty sure I could also fit a 3rd 140 (or at least a 120) in the front (in addition to the 2 x 140 I plan on putting there in place of the 200). I don't really want 8 case fans - so where would I gain the most benefit from fitting extras?
-How much "positive pressure" is too much? If I had 3 x 140mm intake @ front, 1 x 140 top (blowing on the ram) and 1 x 120 - 140 front bottom, would the 1 x 140 exhaust (top rear) be enough, with all that vented top area left to do it's thing, or would I benefit from adding a 2nd fan for extraction near the rear @ the top of the case?


----------



## SteelArt

Another quick teaser


Still a lot of work to do though. And I am waiting for some new water cooling parts. I am going to install two graphic cards and do some changes in my loop.


----------



## doyll

Yes, you can paint fans. Just be careful not to get any paint in motor and that paint goes on evenly.
Yes, they would make good front intakes is speed controlled. using fan hub or PWM signal from CPU fan header or GPU fan header.

Thermalright TY-147. Black housing with white blades and has similar performance to NF-A15 Here is TY-141 (same performance as TY-140 & TY-147) data comparison


Intakes:
2x NF-A15 in front
1x bottom
Use CPU and GPU PWM signal to control them.

Remove HDD cage with SSDs in supplied mount and mount HHD on bottom of 5.25 optical bays.

It takes very little difference in cfm to have positive airflow. We want at least as much exhaust vent area as intake vent area for unrestricted airflow through the case.
Having less exhaust vent area means more airflow resistance and results in loss of airflow.
Take into account any hole that air can go through in calculating vent area.

Biggest flow problem is removing the GPU's heated exhaust without it mixing with the cool airflow to GPU and CPU intakes. Lower front / bottom to upper back / top
tends to move GPU's heat exhaust up around CPU. |Often removing unused PCI-e back slot covers helps front to rear airflow in lower part of case allowing cooler airflow to CPU area.

Optimum airflow guide in 2nd link in sig. PWM control of case fans guide in 1st link.


----------



## Redeye247

That looks stunning SteelArt. I am going to be getting the primo soon, and will be doing a acrylic build, though will concentrate on straight pipe first. Is that a top 360 you have in the top? My only concern for my build is that I have a 240 Monsta and 360 Monsta 80mm thick, so not too sure how I will get mine to fit. What cards are you putting in there btw??


----------



## SteelArt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Redeye247*
> 
> Is that a top 360 you have in the top?


I have XSPC 480 white rad there and at the bottom I have XSPC 240 white rad.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Redeye247*
> 
> What cards are you putting in there btw??


I am planning to add two GTX 980 or GTX 980Ti with 4 or 8 GB version since my new monitor LG 34UM95 (3440x1440) requires more than 3Gb Video memory.


----------



## Redeye247

Monitor looks great. Will be interested to see your rig complete with the cards. I guess blocks will not be available straight away for them though?


----------



## Spork13

Thanks Doyll. Will see where I can get a couple of those TY-147's, move the Noctuas to the front, and maybe remove some slot covers.


----------



## SteelArt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Redeye247*
> 
> I guess blocks will not be available straight away for them though?


Yeah, I have to wait.


----------



## owcraftsman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteelArt*
> 
> Another quick teaser from my new build:
> 
> 
> 
> That's Asus Maximus VII Formula with painted armor, XSPC CPU waterblock (painted as well), Core i7 4790K Devils Canyon and Geil 2x8GB EVO Potenza.
> 
> I hope to finish with the tubing today or tomorrow and with cable sleeving on the next week.


The Galactic Empire would be proud. I hope to see the finish product too.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Accursed Entity*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *PureBlackFire*
> 
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/HAvt5
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That... is beautiful. Rep+!
Click to expand...

Another awesome build nice work PureBlackFire


----------



## SteelArt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *owcraftsman*
> 
> The Galactic Empire would be proud. I hope to see the finish product too.


Well, I have posted a new photo with almost finished project.
Check this post: http://www.overclock.net/t/1418637/official-case-phanteks-club-enthoo-primo-enthoo-luxe-enthoo-pro-lovers-owners/5700#post_22838721


----------



## WHIMington

*Luxe*

My build is finally completed


----------



## doyll

Looks really good!









Congrats.


----------



## Dorito Bandit

Very nice, WHIMington! Congrats!


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bigaza2151*
> 
> Yes ive looked through that and its pretty vague but thankyou, glad to be here!


Ok to simple put it. The 4 pin coming from the fan hub needs to go to a pwm on your board. ( note not every 4 pin on a mobo is pwm. Check your mobo manually). Than connect sata power. After that put the 4 pin fans you wanna control the most of the white 3 pin connection on the hub. That is bc the white 3 pin is what the rest of the other fans will go off of. Than go to bios. And set it the speed for it. ( for example I have asus fx 990fz sabertooth and only cpu fan and cpu opt our pwm. If I put it anywhere but there is will run fans on full speed. Hope this helps


----------



## bigaza2151

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Ok to simple put it. The 4 pin coming from the fan hub needs to go to a pwm on your board. ( note not every 4 pin on a mobo is pwm. Check your mobo manually). Than connect sata power. After that put the 4 pin fans you wanna control the most of the white 3 pin connection on the hub. That is bc the white 3 pin is what the rest of the other fans will go off of. Than go to bios. And set it the speed for it. ( for example I have asus fx 990fz sabertooth and only cpu fan and cpu opt our pwm. If I put it anywhere but there is will run fans on full speed. Hope this helps


i was reading somewhere that you dont have to plug in the sata and that it just makes all the fans run 100 percent


----------



## semitope

Wish I could get this but someone here might be able to take advantage. Hope its within rules. Good deal on a primo

Link: that other forum
Quote:


> FS:
> 
> Phanteks Enthoo Primo Case
> 
> Model: PH-ES813P_BL
> 
> Very nice case, But decided I wanted a smaller case
> 
> This case has it all, Very nicely done by Phanteks
> 
> Comes with all original 140mm Fans or I can replace them with Corsair 140mm Red LED Fans
> 
> The front cover that covers the led strip was broke, But Phanteks sent me a new one
> 
> Also comes with a modded Front by MNPCTech for better intake
> 
> NOTE: There might be some very light marks and some very light lingering tobacco odor
> 
> $110.00 + Shipping - Paypal Only - Sorry but wont ship this internationally
> 
> Heat: http://heatware.com/eval.php?id=60209


----------



## bigaza2151

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spork13*
> 
> While we are talking phans...
> My Mb has 2 x CPU fan headers, so CPU fans run off one via a splitter, and the 2nd runs the fan hub.
> While this might be best for "extreme" cooling (ie: a bunch of radiators etc) it isn't ideal for my everyday use, as the CPU (4790k) is a hot one and the fans if running PWM spend a lot of time @ high speeds


when you say it runs hot, how hot? i just got the same cpu and im getting idle temps of 38 - 40 with an antec kuhler 950 as far as i can tell its seated properly. just wondering if this is normal coz it seems a lil warm compared to my older fx8150


----------



## schoolofmonkey

Does anyone know the power draw on the fan hub when the molex is plugged in?


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

The 'power draw' would depend on what fans are hooked up to the hub. The molex (primo) or sata (others) psu connector adds additional power to the hub and is supposed to only be used when you have added more fans to the hub than the PWM mobo header can handle by itself. Mobo headers are typically rated at 1 Amp (12 watts) but you should consult your manual / manufacturer to be sure. If the header is not PWM, as is usually the case with all but the CPU header(s) on a mobo, then connecting the psu connector will make the fans run at full speed. That's why the hub should be connected to the CPU_FAN header.


----------



## schoolofmonkey

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> If the header is not PWM, as is usually the case with all but the CPU header(s) on a mobo, then connecting the psu connector will make the fans run at full speed. That's why the hub should be connected to the CPU_FAN header.


Yeah found that out, I switched from a Maximus VII Hero to a z97x Gaming G1, the Gaming G1 only has 1 PWM fan header where the Hero had 5 true PWM fan headers.
Not happy, wish I kept the Hero now.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bigaza2151*
> 
> i was reading somewhere that you dont have to plug in the sata and that it just makes all the fans run 100 percent


Many lies are written, and this is one of them. It's a half truth, thus a lie by omission.
If using variable voltage control instead of PWM control, powering from PSU will run fans at full speed. The hub will function as an normal fan splitter hub, but this is not it's designed use.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *schoolofmonkey*
> 
> Yeah found that out, I switched from a Maximus VII Hero to a z97x Gaming G1, the Gaming G1 only has 1 PWM fan header where the Hero had 5 true PWM fan headers.
> Not happy, wish I kept the Hero now.


I seem to recall seeing mention in other threads here that although the first generation of the manual for quite a few ASUS boards said all the headers were PWM, it apparently was a mistake that was corrected in later downloaded versions of the manuals from ASUS. If I could get OCN's search feature to work right now I could probably dig you up a couple links discussing that. The site has been buggy for me lately though. I can't search and there are no formatting buttons above the comment window either.

AFAIK no ASUS board actually has PWM on anything but the CPU_FAN and a mirror of it on the CPU_OPT (not sure about their newest X99 boards though).


----------



## Scorpion49

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> I seem to recall seeing mention in other threads here that although the first generation of the manual for quite a few ASUS boards said all the headers were PWM, it apparently was a mistake that was corrected in later downloaded versions of the manuals from ASUS. If I could get OCN's search feature to work right now I could probably dig you up a couple links discussing that. The site has been buggy for me lately though. I can't search and there are no formatting buttons above the comment window either.
> 
> AFAIK no ASUS board actually has PWM on anything but the CPU_FAN and a mirror of it on the CPU_OPT (not sure about their newest X99 boards though).


Pretty much every Asus board back to Z77 has mostly PWM connectors, the only one that wasn't was the PWR_FAN port which was usually a 3-pin with no control at all. The Z97 boards with the new fan control software are actually really nice, you can remap the fan speeds to a number of different temps across the board instead of just CPU temp.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scorpion49*
> 
> *Pretty much every Asus board back to Z77 has mostly PWM connectors, the only one that wasn't was the PWR_FAN port which was usually a 3-pin with no control at all.* The Z97 boards with the new fan control software are actually really nice, you can remap the fan speeds to a number of different temps across the board instead of just CPU temp.


This is not true. Just because they have a 4-pin header does not mean they are PWM. Almost all boards have only had PWM on CPU headers, and instead on all the others they use a 5v placeholder on the 4th pin instead of the PWM signal and those headers are voltage controlled.

Here have a look at these snapshots below from the manuals all these ASUS boards, the Rampage IV Black Edition, Z87 Deluxe, Maximus VI Gene, X79 Sabertooth, Maximus VII Hero, and Rampage V Extreme. The only one shown below that has PWM on every header is the new RVE. All the rest only have PWM on the CPU_FAN and CPU_OPT headers. I know this for a fact. I've done builds with every one of these boards shown below except for the new RVE (yet).










































And this new one below is the only one with PWM on every fan header.


----------



## Scorpion49

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> This is not true. Just because they have a 4-pin header does not mean they are PWM. Almost all boards have only had PWM on CPU headers, and instead on all the others they use a 5v placeholder on the 4th pin instead of the PWM signal and those headers are voltage controlled.
> 
> Here have a look at these snapshots below from the manuals all these ASUS boards. The only one shown below I found that has PWM on every header is the new RVE. All the rest only have PWM on the CPU_FAN and CPU_OPT headers. I know this for a fact. I've done builds with every one of these boards shown below except for the new RVE (yet).


Huh, guess I got spoiled by boards like the Sabertooth and Deluxe that have all PWM, didn't realize they weren't all like that. I guess that have to add an extra IC for the other PWM controls which adds cost.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scorpion49*
> 
> Huh, guess I got spoiled by boards like the Sabertooth and Deluxe that have all PWM, didn't realize they weren't all like that. I guess that have to add an extra IC for the other PWM controls which adds cost.


What Sabertooth board? What Deluxe board?

I showed snaps from the manuals of the X79 Sabertooth and the Z87 Deluxe above and they sure are not. Not even their flagship RIVE or RIVBE boards are PWM on every header.

I seriously don't think any ASUS boards prior to the new X99 boards they just came out with have PWM on anything other than the CPU headers.


----------



## Scorpion49

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> What Sabertooth board? What Deluxe board?
> 
> I showed snaps from the manuals of the X79 Sabertooth and the Z87 Deluxe above and they sure are not. Not even their flagship RIVE or RIVBE boards are PWM on every header.
> 
> I seriously don't think any ASUS boards prior to the new X99 boards they just came out with have PWM on anything other than the CPU headers.


I guess they did away with it for Z87, I wonder why. Here is the Z77 Sabertooth and Z77 Deluxe (the ones I had before and was basing my assumption off of).


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Hmmm, if that's the case and those are not instances where, as I mentioned above, ASUS mistakenly identified all of the headers as PWM in the manuals for some boards when they actually are not, then I have to wonder why Z77 boards would have been made like that and not any of the Z79 or Z87 boards that came after them. It can't be a money thing. The RIVBE is a $500 board and it didn't have it.

Weird.


----------



## Scorpion49

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Hmmm, if that's the case and those are not instances where, as I mentioned above, ASUS mistakenly identified all of the headers as PWM in the manuals for some boards when they actually are not, then I have to wonder why Z77 boards would have been made like that and not any of the Z79 or Z87 boards that came after them. It can't be a money thing. The RIVBE is a $500 board and it didn't have it.
> 
> Weird.


I think it was a selling point for the Fan Xpert software honestly, I know JJ talked about it being on the new Z97 boards again on an interview I watched a few weeks ago. They apparently developed a new controller chip that will do all of the headers with both voltage and PWM. It seems like it was an "extra" feature on certain older boards but not the norm.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Hmmm, if that's the case and those are not instances where, as I mentioned above, ASUS mistakenly identified all of the headers as PWM in the manuals for some boards when they actually are not, then I have to wonder why Z77 boards would have been made like that and not any of the Z79 or Z87 boards that came after them. It can't be a money thing. The RIVBE is a $500 board and it didn't have it.
> 
> Weird.


Actually, a few of the ASUS Z97 boards use actual PWM headers also. I know from experience that the Z97 Sabertooth is one of them.

And I was seriously ticked about ASUS misrepresenting the PWM capabilities on the older boards. I went out and got PWM fans specifically along with a PWM splitter due to that, only to find after spending the money that there was no PWM signal.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scorpion49*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> What Sabertooth board? What Deluxe board?
> 
> I showed snaps from the manuals of the X79 Sabertooth and the Z87 Deluxe above and they sure are not. Not even their flagship RIVE or RIVBE boards are PWM on every header.
> 
> I seriously don't think any ASUS boards prior to the new X99 boards they just came out with have PWM on anything other than the CPU headers.
> 
> 
> 
> I guess they did away with it for Z87, I wonder why. Here is the Z77 Sabertooth and Z77 Deluxe (the ones I had before and was basing my assumption off of).
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
Click to expand...

I hope you didn't edit those.








Every 4-pin header is


----------



## Scorpion49

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> [/SPOILER]
> I hope you didn't edit those.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Every 4-pin header is


Yeah, they all say CPU PWM. You can go download the manual and see it, but I know it worked on those two boards because I could shut the fans all the way off with the software which IIRC is only possible with a true PWM fan.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scorpion49*
> 
> Yeah, they all say CPU PWM. You can go download the manual and see it, but I know it worked on those two boards because I could shut the fans all the way off with the software which IIRC is only possible with a true PWM fan.


Yeah I looked at the Z77 sabertooth manual from ASUS and sure enough that is what it says.

http://www.asus.com/us/Motherboards/SABERTOOTH_Z77/HelpDesk_Manual/

Identifying them all as CPU fan makes me suspect it's a typo though.

Also, I can control all of the fans on any of the headers on any of my ASUS boards through AI Suite and have the fans turn all the way off even it is voltage controlled (I don't do PWM fans). It doesn't seem to matter if it's a PWM header or not.

edit: I believe the advantage of PWM over voltage control is not that you can "shut the fans all the way off", as that will happen on a voltage control fan as soon as there's not enough voltage for them to start up. The advantage PWM offers is a much better speed control. You can run PWM fans at slower speeds than is usually possible with voltage control.


----------



## doyll

Looks more like whoever labeled the drawing made mistakes.
Seeing every 4-pin header with same CPU FAN on every pin except GND begs questions:
Who screwed up the drawing?
As all are CPU FAN PWM,
All must be on same control setting?
All must be on same PWM signal circuit?
Meaning PWM signal strength limits number of fans that can be controlled to about 10?

Sure smells fishy to me .. and I'm in the desert.










It's easy to find out if they really are PWM controlled or not. Plug in a 3pin fan and if they really are true PWM headers, the 3-pin fan will always run full speed.

Have you actually tested them to see if the CPU FAN PWR is 12v oll the time on all PWR pins .. and can you control fans on each header separately?

I'm betting the fans will be speed controlled and that pin-2 (CPU FAN POWER) is either variable voltage or pulsed 12v power (PWM power not PWM signal).

Edit:
Here are a few links verifying the only PWM headers are CPU FAN headers.
http://www.overclock.net/t/1246595/official-asus-sabertooth-z77-owners-thread-club/1200_20#post_17585378

http://www.silentpcreview.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=66918p=580787


----------



## Spork13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bigaza2151*
> 
> when you say it runs hot, how hot? i just got the same cpu and im getting idle temps of 38 - 40 with an antec kuhler 950 as far as i can tell its seated properly. just wondering if this is normal coz it seems a lil warm compared to my older fx8150


Well, in a room with air temp @ 19c, I get as low as 21c, but up to mid 40's just web browsing. Gaming will get low 60's. Intel XTU and other stress tests will get mid ro high 70's. This is with a slight overclock (4600mHz).
It is also with voltages set to auto, which I believe is part of the problem. When I have time to try to reduce them I hope to get lower temps. Bub these chips are known to run pretty warm.

I'm running a NH-D15 with the stock fans. Have removed both drive bays and mounted HDD and SSD's up top in the optical drive area. At the moment I have an additional Nexus 120mm fan intake top front and a second between the cross bar between where the drive bays were and the optical bay blowing straight onto the GPU's. They are also getting idle temps only about 4c above ambient. I might try removing the 2 x nexus and see what difference that makes.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scorpion49*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> [/SPOILER]
> I hope you didn't edit those.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Every 4-pin header is
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah, they all say CPU PWM. You can go download the manual and see it, but I know it worked on those two boards because I could shut the fans all the way off with the software which IIRC is only possible with a true PWM fan.
Click to expand...

What the manual says and what they actually are could very easily be two very different things. I edited my original post and you may not have read it after editing.
Asus and their manuals have been wrong / gave false information on other occasions .. and the motherboards were not PWM signal controlled on pin 4. They said it was a mistake, but to me it was false advertising and missrepresentation of product.


----------



## Scorpion49

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> What the manual says and what they actually are could very easily be two very different things. I edited my original post and you may not have read it after editing.
> Asus and their manuals have been wrong / gave false information on other occasions .. and the motherboards were not PWM signal controlled on pin 4. They said it was a mistake, but to me it was false advertising and missrepresentation of product.


Hm, maybe it was then. I don't know, I just know they worked for what I needed them to do. Possibly why they're making sure everyone knows about it working for both this gen lol.


----------



## jameschisholm

Does the ambient lighting do white as an option ?


----------



## Scorpion49

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jameschisholm*
> 
> Does the ambient lighting do white as an option ?


Yes it does.


----------



## bigaza2151

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spork13*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *bigaza2151*
> 
> when you say it runs hot, how hot? i just got the same cpu and im getting idle temps of 38 - 40 with an antec kuhler 950 as far as i can tell its seated properly. just wondering if this is normal coz it seems a lil warm compared to my older fx8150
> 
> 
> 
> Well, in a room with air temp @ 19c, I get as low as 21c, but up to mid 40's just web browsing. Gaming will get low 60's. Intel XTU and other stress tests will get mid ro high 70's. This is with a slight overclock (4600mHz).
> It is also with voltages set to auto, which I believe is part of the problem. When I have time to try to reduce them I hope to get lower temps. Bub these chips are known to run pretty warm.
> 
> I'm running a NH-D15 with the stock fans. Have removed both drive bays and mounted HDD and SSD's up top in the optical drive area. At the moment I have an additional Nexus 120mm fan intake top front and a second between the cross bar between where the drive bays were and the optical bay blowing straight onto the GPU's. They are also getting idle temps only about 4c above ambient. I might try removing the 2 x nexus and see what difference that makes.
Click to expand...

I have a spare noctua industrial 120mm i can throw inside the case hopefully somewhere up higher closer to actually blowing onto the cooler and not my gpu. But yeah its kind of a releif to see that these cpus run hot regardless


----------



## schoolofmonkey

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> AFAIK no ASUS board actually has PWM on anything but the CPU_FAN and a mirror of it on the CPU_OPT (not sure about their newest X99 boards though).


No, I had this discussion a while back when I first had my Hero board, everyone though as you did, but I could honestly plug the Primo's fan hub into any fan header with the molex connected and it would act properly, not run at full speed.

This much higher priced Gaming G1 Black board only has 1 PWM fan header, it would of been nice to have both the CPU and the CPU_OPT fans PWM.


----------



## Blackops_2

Hands down the best case for the money IMHO for watercooling I mean if your budgeting for 100$ it's unmatched. Love this case.


----------



## Phantatsy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *semitope*
> 
> Wish I could get this but someone here might be able to take advantage. Hope its within rules. Good deal on a primo
> 
> Link: that other forum


Thanks for the heads up. Already purchased it from him!


----------



## Fantomau

Thats me







Already printed label and will ship it off on the 17th


----------



## Accursed Entity

*Enthoo Evolv*

*Date and price revealed.*

*Source: Phanteks Introduces the Enthoo Evolv mATX PC Case*
Quote:


> *Pricing and Availability*
> Available at most local retailers in September 16, 2014
> *The recommended retail price is*
> PH-ES314E_BK: $129.99
> PH-ES314E_WT: $139.99





Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!








I want to see some some reviews of the black version so bad...


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Accursed Entity*
> 
> *Enthoo Evolv*
> 
> *Date and price revealed.*
> 
> *Source: Phanteks Introduces the Enthoo Evolv mATX PC Case*
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> *Pricing and Availability*
> Available at most local retailers in September 16, 2014
> *The recommended retail price is*
> PH-ES314E_BK: $129.99
> PH-ES314E_WT: $139.99
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I want to see some some reviews of the black version so bad...
Click to expand...

Well that's a surprise. Supposed to be available today? I suspect that may not be correct, as it's sure not showing up for sale any of the usual places yet - Phanteks site or Newegg - not even as available for pre-order, but who knows? It is now showing up on the 'products' listings on the Phanteks site though. Even if not today it probably won't be too long.


----------



## Accursed Entity

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Well that's a surprise. Supposed to be available today? I suspect that may not be correct, as it's sure not showing up for sale any of the usual places yet - Phanteks site or Newegg - not even as available for pre-order, but who knows? It is now showing up on the 'products' listings on the Phanteks site though. Even if not today it probably won't be too long.


That's what is bugging me, hopefully it just mean a soon-to-be-release.


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bigaza2151*
> 
> i was reading somewhere that you dont have to plug in the sata and that it just makes all the fans run 100 percent


No not doesn't make it run at 100%. Who ever said that is misinformed


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blackops_2*
> 
> Hands down the best case for the money IMHO for watercooling I mean if your budgeting for 100$ it's unmatched. Love this case.


agree. Funny looking at this picture. I have basically ever part you have but I have a blue build. Also I removed hard drive cages but not the panel


----------



## Accursed Entity

*Enthoo Evolv*


----------



## doyll

Overclockers UK is taking pre-orders on EVOLV now. No idea when they will be in stock though.


----------



## ILLmatik94

Wow...I almost pulled the trigger on a NZXT H440 until I saw the Luxe







I'm glad I didn't, it's the SEXIEST case I've seen so far at or near it's price point.


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ILLmatik94*
> 
> Wow...I almost pulled the trigger on a NZXT H440 until I saw the Luxe
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm glad I didn't, it's the SEXIEST case I've seen so far at or near it's price point.


Get me now phanteks cases won't be cheap for long


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ILLmatik94*
> 
> Wow...I almost pulled the trigger on a NZXT H440 until I saw the Luxe
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm glad I didn't, it's the SEXIEST case I've seen so far at or near it's price point.


Now that you have become "enlightened" Grasshopper, please use that "light to brighten up the world.


----------



## Crucio

Hi All, First post here.

Just purchased a Enthoo Pro in white and am going to be building a new rig for myself in it, its going to have a black/blue/white theme going on and am after some advice regarding the best set up for fans inside the case.

I am going to be cooling my CPU with the H100i which will be mounted at the top of the Enthoo Pro, i was going to be getting a pair of Silverstone SST-FQ121 FQ to replace the stock fans as i am hearing good things about them.

What I need to know is what I should get for the rest of the fans? should i keep the front 200mm fan as an intake or replace it with a two 120/140mm fans? is the rear fan any good? do people have any suggestions that would fit in with my colour scheme?

Trying to get the fans sorted and ordered asap so I can work out the best routing?









Thanks for your time, feels good to be part of the Phanteks family


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Crucio*
> 
> Hi All, First post here.
> 
> Just purchased a Enthoo Pro in white and am going to be building a new rig for myself in it, its going to have a black/blue/white theme going on and am after some advice regarding the best set up for fans inside the case.
> 
> I am going to be cooling my CPU with the H100i which will be mounted at the top of the Enthoo Pro, i was going to be getting a pair of Silverstone SST-FQ121 FQ to replace the stock fans as i am hearing good things about them.
> 
> What I need to know is what I should get for the rest of the fans? should i keep the front 200mm fan as an intake or replace it with a two 120/140mm fans? is the rear fan any good? do people have any suggestions that would fit in with my colour scheme?
> 
> Trying to get the fans sorted and ordered asap so I can work out the best routing?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for your time, feels good to be part of the Phanteks family


I kept the. 200mm front fan but I think I might replace it. Put two af120 on drive cage. Put the 140mm that came with it in the bottom, af140 rear exhaust, af140 on top, and 2 sp120 on top with my 240mm rad. The two on the hard drive cage if your not water cooling your gpu help a lot to keep gpu temps low. (Note: to use bottom mount fan and both drive cage fans you have to remove psu cover. But it still looks good


----------



## Crucio

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> I kept the. 200mm front fan but I think I might replace it. Put two af120 on drive cage. Put the 140mm that came with it in the bottom, af140 rear exhaust, af140 on top, and 2 sp120 on top with my 240mm rad. The two on the hard drive cage if your not water cooling your gpu help a lot to keep gpu temps low. (Note: to use bottom mount fan and both drive cage fans you have to remove psu cover. But it still looks good


Thanks for the quick reply, nice to get some info on this as doesn't seem to be much on the net regarding it. I will nto be watercooling at this stage, that will be something i look at next year, so going for the best airflow i can get right now. The 140mm at the bottom is used as an intake too? and the two on your 240mm are exhaust?

Sorry if these are basic questions, this will only be my third build and I didn't put as much thought and time in to the last too builds.


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Crucio*
> 
> Thanks for the quick reply, nice to get some info on this as doesn't seem to be much on the net regarding it. I will nto be watercooling at this stage, that will be something i look at next year, so going for the best airflow i can get right now. The 140mm at the bottom is used as an intake too? and the two on your 240mm are exhaust?
> 
> Sorry if these are basic questions, this will only be my third build and I didn't put as much thought and time in to the last too builds.


Everything is intake but the rear exhaust. I'm switching that soon to the top as exhaust and the rest intake just bc I want the sp120 to be seen


----------



## Roxycon

hardware canucks EVOLV video overview


----------



## jeffblute

Someone already posted the video Roxy
but thank you


----------



## Roxycon

a lol, the vid didnt show up earlier so i thought nobody had seen it, sorry guys


----------



## shilka

Anyone here that have problems with their front 200mm fan? i think mine is broken or something because i can hear a noise which i am pretty sure is the fan motor even when the fan is on min speed if i crank up the fan speed the noise gets really loud and very annoying at least to my ears.
I had enough of it so i ordered 2x Noctua NF-A14 FLX fans which should be here some time next week, ordered the 2m LED light strip for the Luxe as well.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> Anyone here that have problems with their front 200mm fan? i think mine is broken or something because i can hear a noise which i am pretty sure is the fan motor even when the fan is on min speed if i crank up the fan speed the noise gets really loud and very annoying at least to my ears.
> I had enough of it so i ordered 2x Noctua NF-A14 FLX fans which should be here some time next week, ordered the 2m LED light strip for the Luxe as well.


I did experience the same thing with 2 of mine 140 mm units that came with the Primo, some sort of clicking. Definitely not normal behavior since I have 8 others that do not present that noise.


----------



## Spork13

Interesting that Phantek have kept the 200mm front intake fan with this case.
I am pretty sure 2 x 120 / 2 x 140 would move more air more quietly.
Love the optical drive hidden @ back - saves removing after installing OS etc.
Like positioning and number of HDD bays, out of the way of the airflow where they belong.
Having the "Front panel" on the side like that would **** me to tears.


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

I don't have a problem with my front 200mm fan, it is quiet and moves a decent amount of air for a stock fan, also comes with an SP rating over 1.00mm/H20 which is good for a 200mm fan. I am going to upgrade to 2x 120s though. I have some spare Cougar Vortex 120mm PWM fans that I will be placing in the front.


----------



## igob8a

Just got my Pro in this morning and lo and behold, the accessories box came loose from the twist tie and opened inside the case.
The twist tie and loose parts scratched up the PSU cover, 5.25 bay and the inside window, which conveniently doesn't have protective plastic. The scratches are so deep they catch my fingernail.

The retailer wants me to mail the entire case to the other side of the continent for replacement. Yeah right. Can someone enlighten me on the RMA process with Phanteks?


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *igob8a*
> 
> Just got my Pro in this morning and lo and behold, the accessories box came loose from the twist tie and opened inside the case.
> The twist tie and loose parts scratched up the PSU cover, 5.25 bay and the inside window, which conveniently doesn't have protective plastic. The scratches are so deep they catch my fingernail.
> 
> The retailer wants me to mail the entire case to the other side of the continent for replacement. Yeah right. Can someone enlighten me on the RMA process with Phanteks?


RMA is pretty good just send them pictures of the damage and proof of purchase and i am sure they will help you out, my window was scratched to hell so i sent an email to Phanteks and they told me they would ship some new glass to me as soon as they get them back in stock.


----------



## Phantatsy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *igob8a*
> 
> Just got my Pro in this morning and lo and behold, the accessories box came loose from the twist tie and opened inside the case.
> The twist tie and loose parts scratched up the PSU cover, 5.25 bay and the inside window, which conveniently doesn't have protective plastic. The scratches are so deep they catch my fingernail.
> 
> The retailer wants me to mail the entire case to the other side of the continent for replacement. Yeah right. Can someone enlighten me on the RMA process with Phanteks?


Man that blows. Email Phanteks and see what they say.


----------



## Dorito Bandit

None of us like having our cases scratched, but those scratches don't look too bad on the inside of your case. It's going to get a few scratches here and there. I would, however, not be happy about my window being scratched up. Before I'd pay to ship my case back, I'd see if they would just send you a replacement window and shroud. That is, if you don't mind having those few scratches in your case.

Contact their support. They'll help you.

Good luck getting things worked out.


----------



## Phantatsy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dorito Bandit*
> 
> None of us like having our cases scratched, but those scratches don't look too bad on the inside of your case. It's going to get a few scratches here and there. I would, however, not be happy about my window being scratched up. Before I'd pay to ship my case back, I'd see if they would just send you a replacement window and shroud. That is, if you don't mind having those few scratches in your case.
> 
> Contact their support. They'll help you.
> 
> Good luck getting things worked out.


I'm going to agree with Dorito Bandit. Could give you a chance to "cover" up those scratches with some custom paint!!


----------



## igob8a

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dorito Bandit*
> 
> None of us like having our cases scratched, but those scratches don't look too bad on the inside of your case. It's going to get a few scratches here and there. I would, however, not be happy about my window being scratched up. Before I'd pay to ship my case back, I'd see if they would just send you a replacement window and shroud. That is, if you don't mind having those few scratches in your case.
> 
> Contact their support. They'll help you.
> 
> Good luck getting things worked out.


Yeah that was what I was planning to do. Shipping the entire case doesn't make sense over the little scratches. I will just try to have the window and PSU cover replaced since that's where the deeper scratches are..
A shame that such an excellent case was damaged due to a minor oversight.


----------



## emsj86

Xspc razor coming soon. Glacer 240l primochill tubing and premix. Enthoo pro baby


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

@igob8a

Sorry to hear that about your Pro. Like yours and the rest, my Enthoo Pro had the same problem of the Toolbox coming loose and wrecking havoc inside my case. My window was scratched, PSU shroud bent, and even my 140mm Fan is kind of busted.

Luckily, Phanteks is on top of it. They will send you replacement Window and PSU shroud, at least they did for me. They replied fast, were very polite and really an all-around A+. Not only do they make great cases, they stand behind their product with excellent customer service which is why I continue to recommend their products vehemently.


----------



## Dorito Bandit

*Enthoo Pro*
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *igob8a*
> 
> Yeah that was what I was planning to do. Shipping the entire case doesn't make sense over the little scratches. I will just try to have the window and PSU cover replaced since that's where the deeper scratches are..
> A shame that such an excellent case was damaged due to a minor oversight.


Keep us updated on this, bro. Hope you get replacement parts!








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> @igob8a
> 
> Sorry to hear that about your Pro. Like yours and the rest, my Enthoo Pro had the same problem of the Toolbox coming loose and wrecking havoc inside my case. My window was scratched, PSU shroud bent, and even my 140mm Fan is kind of busted.
> 
> Luckily, Phanteks is on top of it. They will send you replacement Window and PSU shroud, at least they did for me. They replied fast, were very polite and really an all-around A+. Not only do they make great cases, they stand behind their product with excellent customer service which is why I continue to recommend their products vehemently.


I bought my Enthoo Pro back in early June. My window was also scratched up pretty bad from the tool box coming loose. I contacted them and they responded within 24hrs. Got my replacement window in about 2 weeks as they were out of stock at the time I contacted them. You would think by now that they would have secured that tool box in another location inside the case. Seems they have had to send out a lot of replacement windows.


----------



## semitope

fingers crossed that mine is safe. Can't be bothered with asking for a replacement


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> @igob8a
> 
> Sorry to hear that about your Pro. Like yours and the rest, my Enthoo Pro had the same problem of the Toolbox coming loose and wrecking havoc inside my case. My window was scratched, PSU shroud bent, and even my 140mm Fan is kind of busted.
> 
> Luckily, Phanteks is on top of it. They will send you replacement Window and PSU shroud, at least they did for me. They replied fast, were very polite and really an all-around A+. Not only do they make great cases, they stand behind their product with excellent customer service which is why I continue to recommend their products vehemently.


Very good case bad shipping material. Had three like that where the whole top was broken. I superglued and reached the parts that were bad. They were very professional and fast with getting me the case. One thing I hope they do is come out with a new replacement window or window panel bc all three have small scratches and they can easily scratch. Kind ashame only thing I found I dislikes about the case was shipping and the window is not crisp and clear ( I know it's tinted) like other brands


----------



## igob8a

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> @igob8a
> 
> Sorry to hear that about your Pro. Like yours and the rest, my Enthoo Pro had the same problem of the Toolbox coming loose and wrecking havoc inside my case. My window was scratched, PSU shroud bent, and even my 140mm Fan is kind of busted.
> 
> Luckily, Phanteks is on top of it. They will send you replacement Window and PSU shroud, at least they did for me. They replied fast, were very polite and really an all-around A+. Not only do they make great cases, they stand behind their product with excellent customer service which is why I continue to recommend their products vehemently.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dorito Bandit*
> 
> *Enthoo Pro*
> Keep us updated on this, bro. Hope you get replacement parts!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I bought my Enthoo Pro back in early June. My window was also scratched up pretty bad from the tool box coming loose. I contacted them and they responded within 24hrs. Got my replacement window in about 2 weeks as they were out of stock at the time I contacted them. You would think by now that they would have secured that tool box in another location inside the case. Seems they have had to send out a lot of replacement windows.


Thanks guys







. Hope I have as good an experience with their support as many have mentioned here.

This case replaces my Antec 900 and the difference is staggering--not to mention the A900 cost more too.


----------



## emsj86

I ordered through Amazon so I went through them and not phanteks for my Rma they were great paid for everything and overnighted and I was given a month to send it back. Here is the beast now.


----------



## Accursed Entity

I don't care how "good" Phanteks RMA process is, I don't want them to send me "replacements", I want them to send me a good non-scratched case. It's what the customers pay for... this is getting ridiculous. Yeah, a few Phanteks fans will jump on me for saying this and I know some cases arrives perfectly. But it's my personal opinion on how I feel about it and what I've seen with these cases. It's a shame... I *CAN'T* RMA a case easily where I live, which is why I'm still not sure if I'll buy a Phanteks case.


----------



## Dorito Bandit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Accursed Entity*
> 
> I don't care how "good" Phanteks RMA process is, I don't want them to send me "replacements", I want them to send me a good non-scratched case. It's what the customers pay for... this is getting ridiculous. Yeah, a few Phanteks fans will jump on me for saying this and I know some cases arrives perfectly. But it's my personal opinion on how I feel about it and what I've seen with these cases. It's a shame... I *CAN'T* RMA a case easily where I live, which is why I'm still not sure if I'll buy a Phanteks case.


I totally understand how you feel, bro. I feel the same way.

Before buying one of their cases, why not contact Phanteks to explain your situation, and see if they'll agree to take care of you should you receive a damaged case? If they do not respond or agree to take care of you, then I simply wouldn't buy one of their cases. It's worth a shot, right?

Best of luck to you!


----------



## emsj86

they sent me mine and said to return the old one in a month and they paid for it and overnighted it


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> they sent me mine and said to return the old one in a month and they paid for it and overnighted it


Maybe someone can answer this for me I have the pro. So does the luxe or eimo side window panel for on the pro? And is the luxe and eimo a better quality window? That's my man gripe is the window


----------



## Dorito Bandit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Maybe someone can answer this for me I have the pro. So does the luxe or eimo side window panel for on the pro? And is the luxe and eimo a better quality window? That's my man gripe is the window


Are you asking if the side window of the Primo and Luxe will fit on the Pro? I am not sure if the windows are all the same size or not, but the Luxe and Pro are pretty much the same size case. I also believe the window quality is pretty much the same across all cases. At least they appear to be of the same quality from all the pics I have seen,


----------



## WHIMington

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Accursed Entity*
> 
> I don't care how "good" Phanteks RMA process is, I don't want them to send me "replacements", I want them to send me a good non-scratched case. It's what the customers pay for... this is getting ridiculous. Yeah, a few Phanteks fans will jump on me for saying this and I know some cases arrives perfectly. But it's my personal opinion on how I feel about it and what I've seen with these cases. It's a shame... I *CAN'T* RMA a case easily where I live, which is why I'm still not sure if I'll buy a Phanteks case.


I totally agreed with you, that tool box should have better placed elsewhere.While I do not mind the little scratches on my windows, it still left a bitter taste in your mouth, and personally, I think putting it at the 5.25 bay is not enough.


----------



## Phantatsy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WHIMington*
> 
> I totally agreed with you, that tool box should have better placed elsewhere.While I do not mind the little scratches on my windows, it still left a bitter taste in your mouth, and personally, I think putting it at the 5.25 bay is not enough.


Maybe we should come up with a better idea and sent it to Phanteks.








I really liked how Cooler Master implemented the tool box in my Storm Stryker. Had it's own little box that slides in from the front.


----------



## semitope

Not that hard to secure properly I think. They just werent trying too hard in that aspect. Maybe didn't think of it. From what I have seen they use just one tie to secure it. Something as simple as putting in 2 would be significantly better. They could have made it so it fit strapped below the PSU shroud so it at least can't damage anything visible. The box can have cutouts for the straps to fit inside when wrapped around it. Even now they could just strap it in harder at the factory or use two ties or 3 ties even.

Are they using twist ties? that's likely an issue if so. Not too many workers would tie that down with enough force. Zip-ties are probably better if they come in the right size.

really not too hard. What CoolerMaster did was more a feature of the case than somewhere to put the accessories box I think.


----------



## Phantatsy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *semitope*
> 
> Not that hard to secure properly I think. They just werent trying too hard in that aspect. Maybe didn't think of it. From what I have seen they use just one tie to secure it. Something as simple as putting in 2 would be significantly better. They could have made it so it fit strapped below the PSU shroud so it at least can't damage anything visible. The box can have cutouts for the straps to fit inside when wrapped around it. Even now they could just strap it in harder at the factory or use two ties or 3 ties even.
> 
> Are they using twist ties? that's likely an issue if so. Not too many workers would tie that down with enough force. Zip-ties are probably better if they come in the right size.
> 
> really not too hard. What CoolerMaster did was more a feature of the case than somewhere to put the accessories box I think.


I get what you mean. Maybe I should email them with some suggestions.


----------



## Pikaru

Could you pros look over my build in my thread once more? I'm planning to make the big purchase tonight and I'd like a last lookover. Also it's because all the backordered items are in stock.

Here's the link

http://www.overclock.net/t/1511708/planning-a-wc-build-in-new-enthoo-primo#post_22867928


----------



## djubre7

Hello to all Overclockers and Phanteks fans. In the next 6 months I am getting a new machine, and it will be in the Enthoo Primo enclosure. I am not planing on custom watercooling any time soon, but I do want to use all the air cooling potential in this gem.

My PC atm is inside a Cooler Master 690 1st edition, and it's a 6-7 years old contraption - AMD Phenom 9850 BE, 4GB ddr2, AMD 6870, AM2+ chipset on Gigabyte board, 750W Corsair TX (best thing ever), 3x 1TB HD's, 2x 640GB HD's. This thing was actually great for my needs until around a year or two ago, when I started to use more 3D and video editing apps. This thing even moved Crysis 3 at a reasonable pace with somewhat quality, I dare say. But, the system in general started to slow down, and the new programs just got too much for a comfortable work, and using them turned to an ordeal. And as much as the case was one of the best air-cooling cases when it first got out on the market, the thing is jet loud, and with only one air filter.

Now, I am not someone who can or will buy a new PC or a new component every year, so I'm building a configuration for the next 4-5 years. I am not a hardcore gamer, but I do play games regulary, and the computer can go for up to a week without shutting down. So this is the plan:

- MSI X99S XPOWER AC
- 2x 16GB G.Skill RipJaws 4 DDR4-3000 DIMM CL15
- Intel Core i7 5960X (will be overclocked to ~4.3GHz for everyday use)
- Corsair Hydro Series H110
- 1200 Watt Corsair AXi Series
- 2x EVGA GeForce GTX Titan Black Superclocked SLi
- 256GB Plextor M6e M.2 (System and programs)
- 256GB Samsung 850 (Games)
- 4000GB Seagate Constellation ES.3 (Storage)
- Phanteks Enthoo Primo (Of course)
- 8x Noctua NF-A14 industrialPPC-3000 PWM (heard them idle and under load, they are not so loud as people would have you think)
- 5x Noctua NF-A14 industrialPPC-2000 PWM
- 4k Monitor will be added later

I will not go into peripherals and accessories (air filters, controllers and so on). I should mention probably that I already bought the fans in some small store here in Serbia - even got a discount and got them all for less than 150€!!







That's crazy, I don't think the guy's aware of what he sold me.

Anyway, the problem I have is connecting the fans. I think the way I planned to attach them is going to maximize the air-cooling potential, but I am a bit confused with connecting them to the PWM board as well as the mainboard. The illustration below will explain it better. The PWM board manual says that only 1 fan should be connected to the FAN1 slot, and slots 2-6 can support 2 fans. The mainboard has 2 CPU fan slots, 1 of which will hold the PWM board. So i thought like this:

- Corsair h110 - 1 fan to FAN1, 2 fans to FAN2, 1 fan to FAN 3
- Two front intakes to FAN4

- Top exhaust to FAN5
- Two bottom intakes to FAN6
- Rear exhaust to MB CPUFAN2
- Rear intake to MB SYSFAN1
- Two HD side intakes to SYSFAN2 & SYSFAN3

The motherboard manual says "The CPUFAN1/ 2 and SYSFAN1/ 2/ 3 support Smart Fan Control with liner mode. The Command Center utility can be installed to automatically control the fan speeds according to the CPU's and system's temperature."

The thing that confuses me is whether the fans connected in this way will be temperature-controlled? Also, Noctua fans RPM wire does not match the MB's speed control pin on a 4-pin fan slots. Is that going to be a problem? As said, the picture's worth a 1000 words, so look below.

Thank you in advance,

Predrag



Spoiler: Air-Cooling plan


----------



## Pikaru

You could get a fan hub or use the one that comes with a primo. If I'm not mistaken, there's 6 3 or 4 pin connectors, and it comes with 2 Y splitters. However only 1 fan should go into the 1st header and the hub itself plugs into your mobo pwm header.

All the fans are controlled via the first fan and if you need more juice to power the fans, it comes with a molex connector.

I plan on buying 2 more hubs to power another 14 fans and connecting that to a fan controller and just controlling it manually.


----------



## djubre7

Pikaru, thanks for answering.

I just read a bit more and realized that I missed one important thing - The Primo fan hub uses the motherboard PWM signal from CPUFAN slot to control the 3-pin non-PWM fans. All the fans I've gotten are a 4-pin PWM fans. An oversight that should be taken into consideration when planning the PC-cooling.

However, I think I'll need to order 2 of these - Swiftech 8 Way PWM Splitter. I'll just need to find them in Germany somewhere - that's where I'll have to go to buy all of the components, Serbia has very limiting options and the prices are just too bloated - it's almost a 1000€ difference for the same parts!

So, the plan is to attach 2x 8-way splitters into the MB CPUFAN 1 and CPUFAN 2. The remaining slots could be left empty on the motherboard, or there are some other suggestions? The primo hub will be left unused, as well...


----------



## Roxycon

Does someone know if the tint on the primos windows is on the inside or the outside? Want to get some etching done


----------



## Pikaru

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *djubre7*
> 
> Pikaru, thanks for answering.
> 
> I just read a bit more and realized that I missed one important thing - The Primo fan hub uses the motherboard PWM signal from CPUFAN slot to control the 3-pin non-PWM fans. All the fans I've gotten are a 4-pin PWM fans. An oversight that should be taken into consideration when planning the PC-cooling.
> 
> However, I think I'll need to order 2 of these - Swiftech 8 Way PWM Splitter. I'll just need to find them in Germany somewhere - that's where I'll have to go to buy all of the components, Serbia has very limiting options and the prices are just too bloated - it's almost a 1000€ difference for the same parts!
> 
> So, the plan is to attach 2x 8-way splitters into the MB CPUFAN 1 and CPUFAN 2. The remaining slots could be left empty on the motherboard, or there are some other suggestions? The primo hub will be left unused, as well...


You can still connect the 4 pin fans to the three pin hub. The first fan controls all the others pwm or not


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pikaru*
> 
> You can still connect the 4 pin fans to the three pin hub. The first fan controls all the others pwm or not


He'd be a LOT better off to use the Swiftech splitters for his PWM fans than to try to use the Phanteks hub. It is possible to control PWM fans via voltage instead of PWM but it's not particularly good for many of them.

edit: for example, here's OCN's Swiftech rep discussing voltage control of PWM fans:
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> This is true. Voltage control isn't the same as a PWM signal that these fans were designed for and they were also designed for a specific current. Voltage control alters that current in a way that these PWM fans weren't designed for and it can thus cause them to become noisy, shorten their lifespan, or both.


Heck, I personally wouldn't use the Phanteks hub on 3-pin fans but that's just me. The first thing I did when I got my Primo was remove it and toss it in a drawer. The way the Phanteks hub works is that it uses the PWM signal in from the mobo to control a P channel mosfet that modulates the +12V supply (cuts the 12v power on/off really fast) to the 3-pin fan ports proportionally to the width of the PWM signal pulse to simulate the voltage going up/down like a cheap fan controller typically does.

That's a method for voltage control that doesn't always work so well with all fans, and that's why with cheaper fan controllers you often see complaints about them causing some fans to click at certain speeds and can sometimes interfere with or damage the rpm signal circuitry and / or are blamed for the early death of a fan. That's why some fan manufacturers recommend against trying to control a fan that way. For example Nidec (you know, the makers of the Gentle Typhoon line of fans) says that pwm modulation of 12v current to control fan speed (not to be confused with how a 4-pin PWM fan works - completely different) can damage &/or shorten the life of a fan.

http://www.swiftech.com/pwmcontrollers.aspx
Quote:


> There is an excellent reference article written by Dave at overclockers.com that explains how PWM works.
> 
> Excerpt from the article:
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> There are PWM controllers and there are PWM fans, but the way in which PWM is implemented in each differs greatly: a standard PWM controller modulates the 12 V supply line of an "ordinary" 12 VDC motor. Conversely a PWM controller for PWM fans - such as the one featured in this article - doesn't modulate the 12V supply line but instead sends a PWM signal along a different supply line (the magic "fourth wire") to a more advanced 12 VDC motor, leaving the 12 V supply line uninterrupted. Designated PWM fans not only have internal circuitry which differs from that of standard fans, but because they are designed with speed control in mind the motors themselves are usually more advanced (and expensive). So, PWM speed control of a standard fan is indeed very different from PWM speed control of a PWM fan&#8230; *Nidec even goes so far as to say that modulating the main supply voltage is not advisable*:
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Pulse-width modulation of DC operating voltage to modify fan speed [edit: in PWM devices] is not recommended. Transients generated by that approach can irreversibly damage motor commutation and control electronics and dramatically shorten the life of a fan.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
Click to expand...


----------



## DyndaS

Is there any difference between Enthoo Pro black and white if we talking about quality?


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DyndaS*
> 
> Is there any difference between Enthoo Pro black and white if we talking about quality?


Nope same just different color


----------



## DyndaS

Yea but people talking about easy to scratch window and panels. Im interesting about that quality of this case before i buy.


----------



## djubre7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> He'd be a LOT better off to use the Swiftech splitters for his PWM fans than to try to use the Phanteks hub. It is possible to control PWM fans via voltage instead of PWM but it's not particularly good for many of them.
> 
> edit: for example, here's OCN's Swiftech rep discussing voltage control of PWM fans:
> Heck, I personally wouldn't use the Phanteks hub on 3-pin fans but that's just me. The first thing I did when I got my Primo was remove it and toss it in a drawer. The way the Phanteks hub works is that it uses the PWM signal in from the mobo to control a P channel mosfet that modulates the +12V supply (cuts the 12v power on/off really fast) to the 3-pin fan ports proportionally to the width of the PWM signal pulse to simulate the voltage going up/down like a cheap fan controller typically does.
> 
> That's a method for voltage control that doesn't always work so well with all fans, and that's why with cheaper fan controllers you often see complaints about them causing some fans to click at certain speeds and can sometimes interfere with or damage the rpm signal circuitry and / or are blamed for the early death of a fan. That's why some fan manufacturers recommend against trying to control a fan that way. For example Nidec (you know, the makers of the Gentle Typhoon line of fans) says that pwm modulation of 12v current to control fan speed (not to be confused with how a 4-pin PWM fan works - completely different) can damage &/or shorten the life of a fan.
> 
> http://www.swiftech.com/pwmcontrollers.aspx


Thanks Unicr0nhunter, a very detailed answer. I stumbled upon that article myself today, some great stuff in there. I was rummaging through the internet today, looking for a decent PWM fan controller for this build. Not that I would even need one, but I got so frustrated because there actually are no decent choices - NZXT Sentry Mix 2 is one, but the build quality - it's plastic all around, doesn't quite fit in the 5.25 - to small, has gaps left and right... Plantronics has some decent ones, although neither support PWM 4-pin fans. The question still remains, though, as to why would one want to manually regulate a PWM fan, but nevertheless...

Any other suggestions to my air-cooling plan, or air-cooling in Primo in general?

Thanks


----------



## schoolofmonkey

I swapped out the Gigabyte z79x Gaming G1 Black for a Maximus VII Hero and have been testing out all the fan headers with the fan hub.

I can confirm as long as you have PWM selected on the fan header in the BIOS the fan hub will work on ANY fan header, not just the CPU header.

The Gaming G1 Black only has one true PWM header (CPU) like many other boards.

This was more of a heads up if you're building a new machine and plan on buying one of these cases for the fan hub.


----------



## emsj86

Well when your talking a 89-100 case if the main problem is a poor window ( which still looks nice) can't expect everything. This case should be 150. You can spend honda money and expect lambo quality


----------



## Korayyy

Finally got the new setup finished.

Enthoo Primo - 4790k @ 4.8 with 3 290's @ 1160/1480 24/7

http://s1167.photobucket.com/user/Korey1213/media/DSC02683.jpg.html

http://s1167.photobucket.com/user/Korey1213/media/DSC02691.jpg.html

http://s1167.photobucket.com/user/Korey1213/media/DSC02690.jpg.html

http://s1167.photobucket.com/user/Korey1213/media/DSC02692.jpg.html


----------



## Dorito Bandit

Very nice, bro! Enjoy!


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Could someone recommend me a good fan hub that is similar to the included one? I am going crazy with the constant up-down, up-down, that happens with the included fan hub.

It would be nice if it were as similar to the included one as possible. I have 1 PWM fan, and 4, 3-pin fans that need to be powered through a fan hub. I don't want a 5.25 bay, just a fan hub as similar to the included one as possible that wont give me a constant up-down, up-down.


----------



## schoolofmonkey

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> Could someone recommend me a good fan hub that is similar to the included one? I am going crazy with the constant up-down, up-down, that happens with the included fan hub.


NZXT GRID+

http://www.nzxt.com/product/detail/148-GRID-digital-fan-controller.html

Corsair Commander Mini
http://www.corsair.com/en/corsair-commander-mini


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *schoolofmonkey*
> 
> NZXT GRID+
> 
> http://www.nzxt.com/product/detail/148-GRID-digital-fan-controller.html
> 
> Corsair Commander Mini
> http://www.corsair.com/en/corsair-commander-mini


Thank you, I think the GRID+ is closer to what I want, I just hate CAM software.


----------



## CynicalUnicorn

Anybody know the release date on the Enthoo Mini XL? Looks sexy and I'm considering upgrading to mATX X79.

EDIT: Okay. I'm definitely getting this. It can fit a second mITX system in the top!


----------



## jameschisholm

How strong is the tint on the side windows? How visible are the components?


----------



## Roxycon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jameschisholm*
> 
> How strong is the tint on the side windows? How visible are the components?


You will need lights on the inside to properly see components unless you have a overly bright room


----------



## Spork13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roxycon*
> 
> Does someone know if the tint on the primos windows is on the inside or the outside? Want to get some etching done


With so many reporting scratched windows due to the accessories box coming l;oose I'm surprised this hasn't been answered yet.

Possibly the plastic is tinted right through, not just a surface film?


----------



## SteelArt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jameschisholm*
> 
> How strong is the tint on the side windows? How visible are the components?


Here are three photos: first photo without led stripes and two other photos with led stripes.


----------



## DyndaS

Is it possible to mount 1 HDD after removing the cage drives in that place?


----------



## Pierre3400

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteelArt*
> 
> Here are three photos: first photo without led stripes and two other photos with led stripes.
> http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/2181376/width/500/height/1000
> http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/2181377/width/500/height/1000
> http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/2181379/width/500/height/1000


Is there a reason why you are pushing the hot air from inside the case into your rads?


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pierre3400*
> 
> Is there a reason why you are pushing the hot air from inside the case into your rads?


Well, for starters, where is all the heat coming from to have "hot air" in his case?

He's got a cpu and one gpu both with waterblocks on them so they are not dumping much heat at all, the psu is thermally isolated on the backside of the case in the Primo, and there's two 140mm fans in the front bringing in fresh ambient so I'd venture to guess that at most that interior air being exhausted through the rads is _maybe_ 1-2C warmer than ambient (certainly not "hot air"), and with just what's visible there's a comfortable overkill of raddage for what components he's cooling so it's not like that degree or two is hurting him at all - certainly not limiting any overclock capability (which is the only thing that matters), AND, perhaps most importantly, by having them as exhaust he gets to keep the colored rings on those SP120s visible on the interior to match his build.

The only criticism I might have just looking at those rads as exhaust is that it's likely a negative pressure environment so would be prone to sucking in dust through all the unfiltered openings in the case. Perhaps if the rad fan speeds were kept a lot slower than the intake fan speeds it wouldn't be so bad. That's something easily accomplished with automatic speed control with a good fan controller or maybe just let the front fans run at full speed and use the Phanteks hub to temp control / limit speeds for the rad fans. Could also add intake fans to the right-side panel mounted either to the panel itself or to the bracket mounted in front of the HDD bays. That would help increase positive pressure or reduce negative pressure airflow and further lower internal air temps closer to ambient.


----------



## Pikaru

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DyndaS*
> 
> Is it possible to mount 1 HDD after removing the cage drives in that place?


You'd probably have to buy a mount to put it into the 5.25 drive bays


----------



## SteelArt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pierre3400*
> 
> Is there a reason why you are pushing the hot air from inside the case into your rads?


Why you think the fans pushing hot air to the rads? Do you think it's reasonable to push the air from outside? Anyway, my temps are just great.


----------



## SteelArt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> The only criticism I might have just looking at those rads as exhaust is that it's likely a negative pressure environment so would be prone to sucking in dust through all the unfiltered openings in the case. Perhaps if the rad fan speeds were kept a lot slower than the intake fan speeds it wouldn't be so bad.


My fans are at ~300rpm. They start to rotate faster when my CPU is very hot. Usually at encoding and LinX. So, most of the time they are very slow and quiet. I was running my build for about 1.5 months and almost no dust.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Could also add intake fans to the right-side panel mounted either to the panel itself or to the bracket mounted in front of the HDD bays. That would help increase positive pressure or reduce negative pressure airflow and further lower internal air temps closer to ambient.


Thanks for the tip. I'll see what I can do when I'll switch to two GTX980.


----------



## Roxycon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spork13*
> 
> With so many reporting scratched windows due to the accessories box coming l;oose I'm surprised this hasn't been answered yet.
> 
> Possibly the plastic is tinted right through, not just a surface film?


right through, hm, so it will give same effect either way then







etching it from the inside will give the best outside effect, probably


----------



## Spork13

Yep. Yuo could buy an aftermarket fitting, or do what I did. I used one of the existing drive caddies and just stuck it in the top bay with some double sided tape.
If you move your pc around all the time doing LAN's etc, get a fitting. If it spends most of it's time at home the tape is fine.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DyndaS*
> 
> Is it possible to mount 1 HDD after removing the cage drives in that place?


----------



## Phantatsy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DyndaS*
> 
> Is it possible to mount 1 HDD after removing the cage drives in that place?


http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811993007&nm_mc=KNC-GoogleAdwords&cm_mmc=KNC-GoogleAdwords-_-pla-_-SSD+%2f+HDD+Accessories-_-N82E16811993007&gclid=Cj0KEQjw7vmgBRDdnLPZp7aBlroBEiQA7_NmV0vO7gV13sE12tcmx01qObzCiqoy1dw1FqKxNPB1YmcaAuj48P8HAQ


----------



## El_Mayo

My Enthoo Pro came today! Where do I plug the CPU fan then, the manual says to plug the 4 pin connector from the hub to the CPU Fan connector, and not any old 4 pin connector so will the CPU fan then go into the hub? My motherboard will be the Z97-A which supposedly has PWM support in every 4 pin connector though, so it might not really matter?


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *El_Mayo*
> 
> My Enthoo Pro came today! Where do I plug the CPU fan then, the manual says to plug the 4 pin connector from the hub to the CPU Fan connector, and not any old 4 pin connector so will the CPU fan then go into the hub? My motherboard will be the Z97-A which supposedly has PWM support in every 4 pin connector though, so it might not really matter?


IF the mobo has all PWM headers then it shouldn't matter, BUT it looks to me like the manual for the Z97-A says that only the CPU headers are actually PWM. The other fan headers have a 5v placeholder instead of a PWM signal, and in that case you would want to use the CPU_FAN header.

http://www.asus.com/us/Motherboards/Z97A/HelpDesk_Manual/


----------



## El_Mayo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> IF the mobo has all PWM headers then it shouldn't matter, BUT it looks to me like the manual for the Z97-A says that only the CPU headers are actually PWM. The other fan headers have a 5v placeholder instead of a PWM signal, and in that case you would want to use the CPU_FAN header.
> 
> http://www.asus.com/us/Motherboards/Z97A/HelpDesk_Manual/


okay so hub 4 pin connector into the CPU fan and then the CPU cooler's fan into the hub, yeah?

edit: i only have one fan atm so I can just plug the hub into CPU_OPT actually


----------



## Jeemil89

I think that you also have to connect at least 1 fan to the white fan header on the pwm hub to get a fan speed reading and be able to control the fan/fans connected to the hub. Someone correct me if i'm wrong.


----------



## WHIMington

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DyndaS*
> 
> Is it possible to mount 1 HDD after removing the cage drives in that place?


Alternatively you can mount the HDD at the back side of the ODD bays, you will need to carefully drill some holes but there should be enough space for a full size HDD to mount there.


----------



## El_Mayo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeemil89*
> 
> I think that you also have to connect at least 1 fan to the white fan header on the pwm hub to get a fan speed reading and be able to control the fan/fans connected to the hub. Someone correct me if i'm wrong.


so I'll wanna plug the CPU fan to that header then, so if the CPU fan is slow the other fans will be slow, ye?


----------



## Jeemil89

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *El_Mayo*
> 
> so I'll wanna plug the CPU fan to that header then, so if the CPU fan is slow the other fans will be slow, ye?


Yes, that's how I have it set up.


----------



## Ricardo Novo




----------



## RadActiveLobstr

I am planning an upcoming build, looking into multiple options (Z97 or X99, AIO or Custom WC, Single or Dual GPU, etc...)

I had my heart set on a CaseLabs ST10 or SMA8 with customer water cooling (because you do not put a AIO in one of those cases...) but there is no way I can make that work with my budget as the case, fans and custom water cooling alone takes up $1500 + before I even put any actual computer parts in it so I am having to rethink my build but I will have you one day CaseLabs... one day.

The Enthoo Primo fits my price range better and if I go with it I plan to stick a Swiftech H220-X in there for the CPU.

My question for this owners thread is one of my main requirements with the case I go with is it MUST have casters. I have to be able to move the case around. I know the Enthoo Primo doesn't come with casters so I am interested to know if anyone here has modded or added them in?

If so, how easy is it to do? Is the bottom of the case structurally sound enough to use casters.

I've also thrown around the idea of building/making some sort of platform the case can possibly set on that allows it to have caster but without actually modding the case, as I want to retain the dust filter setup the Enthoo Primo has by default.

Another question is will the 5.25 bay door on the Primo close if something like a fan controller is installed? How much space is there behind the door for stuff in the bays.

Thanks.


----------



## snef

Hi,

a new member in this great club

I give a second life to Newtocooling's Primo

want to say Thanks to @Newtocooling for the case, he ship me the case for free
Thanks My friend


----------



## SteelArt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> Hi,
> 
> a new member in this great club
> 
> I give a second life to @Newtocooling primo


Wow, Snef. I am a fan of your builds. Is a nice to see you here.


----------



## snef

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteelArt*
> 
> Wow, Snef. I am a fan of your builds. Is a nice to see you here.


Thanks

the Enthoo Primo was in my plan for a long time

but some things happen with my job and don't have the same budget as last year to do build, if its don't have budget anymore

and a great guy on another forum send me a PM, hey I have Primo I can give to you to do your magic with it

I told him, sorry no money, he told me, no no, free
can you believe this, this guy don't know me and he send it to me, shipping include, I don't know if you know the price of shipping for a primo from US to Canada

I cant do a garbage build with this case, I need to to a very great one in respect to him
I will sell this build at the end and send him some money for sure

Again @Newtocooling , thanks a million time


----------



## SteelArt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> I cant do a garbage build with this case, I need to to a very great one in respect to him


Waiting for the new pics


----------



## emsj86

Has anyone or does anyone have a picture of a 240mm rad mounted on bottom of enthoo pro. I know its possible but can it still have the 200mm in front as well


----------



## emsj86

So I'm kinda worried see I just ordered two 240mm rads and I use a drive bay res. can anyone that has a enthoo pro maybe know if I can mount the 240mm rad on the front or bottom with only moving the hdd cages and not the entire side panel that has the phanteks logo on it


----------



## demps709

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *demps709*
> 
> What's the fastest way to get in touch with Phantek's? I just received my Luxe today and the accessory box got lose and scratched the inside of my window. I'm also missing one of the SSD brackets.


So I received the new window (which the molding was broken off on a corner but you can't really notice) and my SSD bracket within about 3-4 days. The RGB board on mine was also bad and they sent me another. Thankfully their support is very good.

Two questions, does anyone else's top panel on their Luxe rattle a bit? It's bearable with my fans sub 900rpm but I can't go any higher. Even at that you can still notice a rattle. Any ideas on how to fix it? Putting pressure seems to work but I'd like a permanent solution. Also does anyone have a good way to manage the RGB so that it remembers what color you set it to?


----------



## Newtocooling

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> Hi,
> 
> a new member in this great club
> 
> I give a second life to Newtocooling's Primo
> 
> want to say Thanks to @Newtocooling for the case, he ship me the case for free
> Thanks My friend
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Look what you did with my case!!! No reason to thank me, it looks incredible, and I'm glad that I could help you create another awesome build. Your a great guy who is always trying to help in the forums and you always giving great advice.


----------



## Jeemil89

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> So I'm kinda worried see I just ordered two 240mm rads and I use a drive bay res. can anyone that has a enthoo pro maybe know if I can mount the 240mm rad on the front or bottom with only moving the hdd cages and not the entire side panel that has the phanteks logo on it


Bill Owen from mnpctech has a great video about the enthoo pro on youtube. You can see from the video that a 240mm radiator should fit in the bottom and front without removing the cover panel for the drive cages. /


----------



## Phantatsy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> Hi,
> 
> a new member in this great club
> 
> I give a second life to Newtocooling's Primo
> 
> want to say Thanks to @Newtocooling for the case, he ship me the case for free
> Thanks My friend
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Those look sick.


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> So I'm kinda worried see I just ordered two 240mm rads and I use a drive bay res. can anyone that has a enthoo pro maybe know if I can mount the 240mm rad on the front or bottom with only moving the hdd cages and not the entire side panel that has the phanteks logo on it


this is 100% not a problem.


----------



## Dorito Bandit

*Enthoo Pro*

Do any of you guys have a 200mm fan mounted in the top of your Pro case? If so, do you have any pics you can post?

Thanks in advance!


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteelArt*
> 
> Here are three photos: first photo without led stripes and two other photos with led stripes.


How is the dust build up bc I have a af140 as exhaust 2 top sp129 on a rad than I'm going to add two exhaust sp130 on a bottom mount rad. I know I take is considered the way but for looks I want to do it this way. I have enthoo pro and I even bought a filter and modded for the top exhaust. So just wanted to see if it would be wise or not wise to do this. I like to hear from people who done this not what they heard please. Thanks


----------



## Fantomau

My Luxe.

Soon to have a 4790k, Phanteks Dual 120mm Cooler and Asus VII Hero Mobo, Evga GTX 980


----------



## Dorito Bandit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fantomau*
> 
> 
> 
> My Luxe.
> 
> Soon to have a 4790k, Phanteks Dual 120mm Cooler and Asus VII Hero Mobo, Evga GTX 980


You ruined that beautiful case by putting that *UGLY* Auburn Tigers sticker on it!







Just kidding, bud. That's going to be a very nice build when completed.


----------



## I_Try_Pregame

How quiet is the Luxe?


----------



## Fantomau

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dorito Bandit*
> 
> You ruined that beautiful case by putting that *UGLY* Auburn Tigers sticker on it!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just kidding, bud. That's going to be a very nice build when completed.


LOL, O GOD A fUGAly fan


----------



## sticks435

Has anyone tried to put a 30mm rad in the front of the Luxe and also been able to use the pump bracket? Thinking Black Ice Nemesis GTS in particular.


----------



## Flancen

Hello, i got a question i could use some help with, im kind of planning on buying a Primo case, but i have one last question about the case i need help with: how far would it be from the 5,25" places to the CPU mount? to the GPU mount? the reason im asking is because i kind of want a bitfenix recon fan controller and would like the temperature sensors to be able to reach thoose place.

anyone here have the Primo case and the Recon? or other fancontrollers with temp. sensors?
or anyone that would be so kind to measure the distance for me?


----------



## El_Mayo

I'm having trouble getting the PSU into my Enthoo Pro. It looks like this anti vibration bit of rubber is making the psu making the holes impossible to line up 



Anyone else experience this?


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *El_Mayo*
> 
> I'm having trouble getting the PSU into my Enthoo Pro. It looks like this anti vibration bit of rubber is making the psu making the holes impossible to line up
> 
> 
> 
> Anyone else experience this?


remove it. interesting I didn't have that issue. I'm not sure if I have a rubber pad on the side like that.


----------



## snef

Thanks

now with GPU and e little idea of the tubing


----------



## El_Mayo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PureBlackFire*
> 
> remove it. interesting I didn't have that issue. I'm not sure if I have a rubber pad on the side like that.


see I wasn't sure if I was doing something wrong, but if it was supposed to be such a tight fit I would have read about it in the TPU review!

Edit: just noticed there was on rubber foot missing at the bottom, I think some factory worker just misplaced it?
I've moved it to the bottom and this makes a lot more sense


----------



## jameschisholm

Snef, I am not worthy, I am not worthy









Asking the club here, do you guys ever just buy a new case and transfer your current build into it? Rather than doing a new build.


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jameschisholm*
> 
> Snef, I am not worthy, I am not worthy
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Asking the club here, do you guys ever just buy a new case and transfer your current build into it? Rather than doing a new build.


I have but than once in the new case my mind starts moving and money stars magically flying out if my pocket


----------



## shremi

I cant belive i won this item hopefully everything works but at the price i was silling to take a chance so i guess ill be joining the club soon

$69.99


----------



## Phantatsy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> I have but than once in the new case my mind starts moving and money stars magically flying out if my pocket


This. Lucky for me; girlfriend wants a computer built. :3


----------



## liberato87

Phanteks Enthoo Pro water cooled





http://www.xtremehardware.com/recensioni/case-e-modding/phanteks-enthoo-pro-siamo-sicuri-che-sia-l-entry-level-della-famiglia-2014091110185/


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *liberato87*
> 
> Phanteks Enthoo Pro water cooled
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.xtremehardware.com/recensioni/case-e-modding/phanteks-enthoo-pro-siamo-sicuri-che-sia-l-entry-level-della-famiglia-2014091110185/


What cpu and gpu. All on a single 240 rad what our your temps and our you overclocking. Either way very nice I love my enthoo pro. Checked out the 900d at microcenter and I don't get why people like corsair over phanteks case wise, bc it felt so cheap. Looked nice but felt cheap for 300 case I expect much more enthoo pro 89 with window is a can't miss. And expect next round of cases to be higher priced. Get it while it's hot they say. Also the link is there a link that's in English you could post if possible wanna see the perf. With a single duel 120 rad


----------



## liberato87

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> What cpu and gpu. All on a single 240 rad what our your temps and our you overclocking. Either way very nice I love my enthoo pro. Checked out the 900d at microcenter and I don't get why people like corsair over phanteks case wise, bc it felt so cheap. Looked nice but felt cheap for 300 case I expect much more enthoo pro 89 with window is a can't miss. And expect next round of cases to be higher priced. Get it while it's hot they say


check the link of the review
i know maybe in italian you can not understand everything but the tabs are clear.

by the way it is a setup with an xspc rx 360 fanless and a xspc rx 240 on the front of the case.
cpu 4770k and gtx 780. with both in overclock (4770k at 4,5ghz, 780 @ 1200mhz) 43° C on the gpu and 60 on the core of the cpu while playing battlefield 4.


----------



## El_Mayo

I've got the PWM fan hub plugged into my CPU_FAN in the motherboard. I'm in the bios atm and when I switch from PWM to DC in Q-Fan it's a lot quieter. I can see and hear the fans get faster when I choose PWM over DC in this menu, even tho PWM has a less aggressive fan curve. 


Anyone know what I'm doing wrong? I've got the heatsink fan plugged into the white FAN 1 bit on the hub


----------



## WhitePrQjser

Hey!

Which of these fans would you think is the better in the front of the case:

1. 2x Phanteks PH-F140HP 140 mm.

2. 2x Cooler Master JetFlo 120 mm. white LED

I will remove the top HDD cage. Right now the JetFlos are on sale. On one hand, I don't want fans with LEDs, but on the other I don't think the JetFlo LEDs aren't too intruding, and they wouldn't bee too much sitting in the front.

I don't know, and that's why I need you guys!


----------



## rpjkw11

From what I've read, the Jetflos are LOUD. They might push more CFMs, but the additional noise would not be worth it to me.


----------



## emsj86

what do you think 3 swiftech rads, enthoo pro, fx8350, expanded 240l glacer


----------



## emsj86




----------



## Jeemil89

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *liberato87*
> 
> check the link of the review
> i know maybe in italian you can not understand everything but the tabs are clear.
> 
> by the way it is a setup with an xspc rx 360 fanless and a xspc rx 240 on the front of the case.
> cpu 4770k and gtx 780. with both in overclock (4770k at 4,5ghz, 780 @ 1200mhz) 43° C on the gpu and 60 on the core of the cpu while playing battlefield 4.


Why fanless? The cooling performance of a fanless radiator is very minimal. In your case the 240 rad is doing all the cooling. Temps are fine but you could drop some degrees by adding fans on that 360. Also removing the 5,25" bays will give you much more room if you are not using them. Other than that, nice build!


----------



## angelgabriel

Ordered a non-windowed Phanteks Enthoo Pro. It is in my opinion the best mass-manufactured ATX case on the market and I can't wait to start building in it.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeemil89*
> 
> *Why fanless?* The cooling performance of a fanless radiator is very minimal. In your case the 240 rad is doing all the cooling. Temps are fine but you could drop some degrees by adding fans on that 360. Also removing the 5,25" bays will give you much more room if you are not using them. Other than that, nice build!


Seeing as it's a 57mm thick RX360 my guess is it's fanless because there's not enough room in the Pro for fans on that rad. There's only 65mm total so adding fans to that rad is not an option unless you were to remove the top filter / grill and screw fans to the top of the case.

That's my biggest knock against the Pro. The space for a rad up top is waaaaay too small. And unfortunately there's not been a lot of readily available info about what size rads will fit. Even a lot of the reviews of the case omit mentioning just how little room is up there. I imagine quite a few people bought rads for the top of their Pro only to find out later they wouldn't fit.

That reminds me. If this is going to be the 'Club' thread for all these different Phanteks cases then the first post could use some updating / cleaning up. For example, the "FAQ" should stipulate they apply only to the Primo, and there probably ought to be an effort to include similar FAQs for the other cases as well. It would be nice to have it mentioned in that first post what size rads will fit in the various locations in the Pro and the Luxe.


----------



## Jeemil89

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Seeing as it's a 57mm thick RX360 my guess is it's fanless because there's not enough room in the Pro for fans on that rad. There's only 65mm total so adding fans to that rad is not an option unless you were to remove the top filter / grill and screw fans to the top of the case.
> 
> That's my biggest knock against the Pro. The space for a rad up top is waaaaay too small. And unfortunately there's not been a lot of readily available info about what size rads will fit. Even a lot of the reviews of the case omit mentioning just how little room is up there. I imagine quite a few people bought rads for the top of their Pro only to find out later they wouldn't fit.
> 
> That reminds me. If this is going to be the 'Club' thread for all these different Phanteks cases then the first post could use some updating / cleaning up. For example, the "FAQ" should stipulate they apply only to the Primo, and there probably ought to be an effort to include similar FAQs for the other cases as well. It would be nice to have it mentioned in that first post what size rads will fit in the various locations in the Pro and the Luxe.


Yes I agree, the space is limited. I am going to install a 420 radiator in mine to replace the 360, it's gonna have to be an Alphacool st30 to have room for some fans. In his case I would sell the RX360 and get a thinner one and add some fans. It would increase the cooling a lot.


----------



## liberato87

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeemil89*
> 
> Why fanless? The cooling performance of a fanless radiator is very minimal. In your case the 240 rad is doing all the cooling. Temps are fine but you could drop some degrees by adding fans on that 360. Also removing the 5,25" bays will give you much more room if you are not using them. Other than that, nice build!


Because there isnt enough space on the top



I used this case only for the review.
My real setup is this











Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Seeing as it's a 57mm thick RX360 my guess is it's fanless because there's not enough room in the Pro for fans on that rad. There's only 65mm total so adding fans to that rad is not an option unless you were to remove the top filter / grill and screw fans to the top of the case.
> 
> That's my biggest knock against the Pro. The space for a rad up top is waaaaay too small. And unfortunately there's not been a lot of readily available info about what size rads will fit. *Even a lot of the reviews of the case omit mentioning just how little room is up there*. I imagine quite a few people bought rads for the top of their Pro only to find out later they wouldn't fit.


that's all. there is not enough space even for a 45mm radiator + fans. only slim rads.
And that's true, nobody in the review tell this but if you read my review you willl notice that I mention this and this is one of the cons of that case.

I think it is done for AIO.. or even if you use a 420 slim radiator you can compensate the thickness with more surface.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeemil89*
> 
> Yes I agree, the space is limited. I am going to install a 420 radiator in mine to replace the 360, it's gonna have to be an Alphacool st30 to have room for some fans. In his case I would sell the RX360 and get a thinner one and add some fans. It would increase the cooling a lot.


I will do the same, but as I told before I used this case only for the review


----------



## WhitePrQjser

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rpjkw11*
> 
> From what I've read, the Jetflos are LOUD. They might push more CFMs, but the additional noise would not be worth it to me.


The noise doesn't matter to me. I have a fan controller. I just need to know if they'd be a better choice over the Phanteks. They push more air as far as I can see, and they would be cheaper (15,50 EUR over 31,25 EUR).

I have to get 5x Silverstone FN121 too, så maybe two more og those would be even better?

So I just need to know if I should use the Phanteks, JetFlos or Silverstones.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Don't believe Cooler Master's specifications on their fans. All manufacturer provided specs should be taken with a grain of salt, but none more so than Cooler Master. They flat out lie more than any other company. None of CM's fans have ever performed anywhere near their specs in independent testing.


----------



## Jeemil89

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WhitePrQjser*
> 
> Hey!
> 
> Which of these fans would you think is the better in the front of the case:
> 
> 1. 2x Phanteks PH-F140HP 140 mm.
> 
> 2. 2x Cooler Master JetFlo 120 mm. white LED
> 
> I will remove the top HDD cage. Right now the JetFlos are on sale. On one hand, I don't want fans with LEDs, but on the other I don't think the JetFlo LEDs aren't too intruding, and they wouldn't bee too much sitting in the front.
> 
> I don't know, and that's why I need you guys!


If you are going with 140mm then take the Phanteks over the CM fans. Other good brands are Cougar, Noiseblocker, Noctua, Corsair. Don't trust the specs of the fans since they usually are a bit exaggerated.


----------



## snef

more I play with this case more I like it


----------



## HammerNL

Sorry if this question is answered before, but I couldn't find anything about it.

I recently switched to a Phantek Luxe. Normally i'm not a LED guy, but I like the subtle approach of the leds in the Luxe. The only thing that bothers me, is the led strip not saving my color. So every time I start my PC I have to manually click to get the right color back. Is this way this led strip works, or can I save my preferred color somehow?


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HammerNL*
> 
> Sorry if this question is answered before, but I couldn't find anything about it.
> 
> I recently switched to a Phantek Luxe. Normally i'm not a LED guy, but I like the subtle approach of the leds in the Luxe. The only this that bothers me, is the led strip not saving my color. So every time I start my PC I have to manually click to get the right color back. Is this way this led strip works, or can I save my preferred color somehow?


most LED strips I've used work this way.


----------



## shilka

Removed my front 200mm fan and replaced it with 2 Noctua NF-A14 FLX fans and i and installed the Phanteks 2m LED strip


----------



## Pikaru

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *liberato87*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Jeemil89*
> 
> Why fanless? The cooling performance of a fanless radiator is very minimal. In your case the 240 rad is doing all the cooling. Temps are fine but you could drop some degrees by adding fans on that 360. Also removing the 5,25" bays will give you much more room if you are not using them. Other than that, nice build!
> 
> 
> 
> Because there isnt enough space on the top
> 
> 
> 
> I used this case only for the review.
> My real setup is this
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Seeing as it's a 57mm thick RX360 my guess is it's fanless because there's not enough room in the Pro for fans on that rad. There's only 65mm total so adding fans to that rad is not an option unless you were to remove the top filter / grill and screw fans to the top of the case.
> 
> That's my biggest knock against the Pro. The space for a rad up top is waaaaay too small. And unfortunately there's not been a lot of readily available info about what size rads will fit. *Even a lot of the reviews of the case omit mentioning just how little room is up there*. I imagine quite a few people bought rads for the top of their Pro only to find out later they wouldn't fit.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> that's all. there is not enough space even for a 45mm radiator + fans. only slim rads.
> And that's true, nobody in the review tell this but if you read my review you willl notice that I mention this and this is one of the cons of that case.
> 
> I think it is done for AIO.. or even if you use a 420 slim radiator you can compensate the thickness with more surface.
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Jeemil89*
> 
> Yes I agree, the space is limited. I am going to install a 420 radiator in mine to replace the 360, it's gonna have to be an Alphacool st30 to have room for some fans. In his case I would sell the RX360 and get a thinner one and add some fans. It would increase the cooling a lot.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I will do the same, but as I told before I used this case only for the review
Click to expand...

What's your part list? Mine looks like it'll be really similar! I'd like to know just so I have an idea of what to expect when putting it all together.


----------



## liberato87

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pikaru*
> 
> What's your part list? Mine looks like it'll be really similar! I'd like to know just so I have an idea of what to expect when putting it all together.


check this

http://www.xtremehardware.com/forum/showthread.php?t=43080

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## SteelArt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> more I play with this case more I like it
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Amazing!


----------



## owcraftsman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteelArt*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> more I play with this case more I like it
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Amazing!
Click to expand...

Ditto Amazing

@snef
Are those Sharkoon Shark Blades Fans?
That's what they look like but the center fan sticker isn't familiar to me.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *owcraftsman*
> 
> Ditto Amazing
> 
> @snef
> Are those Sharkoon Shark Blades Fans?
> That's what they look like but the center fan sticker isn't familiar to me.


Snef had BRP stickers made for his build ...

[build log]***** Snef's Project Renegade X *****
http://www.overclock.net/t/1511937/build-log-snefs-project-renegade-x/
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> a little update
> 
> received my fans today
> 
> will not paint these for sure, I just love these fans, now wait to see how they perform
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Moar Pics


----------



## snef

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteelArt*
> 
> Amazing!


Thanks

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *owcraftsman*
> 
> Ditto Amazing
> 
> @snef
> Are those Sharkoon Shark Blades Fans?
> That's what they look like but the center fan sticker isn't familiar to me.


Thanks

Yes, they are Sharkoon shark blade

this build is a tribute to BRP

I made a custom center sticker for all fan with the BRP logo

EDIT: @Unicr0nhunter was faster than me









and if you don't know what is BRP










the color theme is inspired by this little rocket


----------



## owcraftsman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *SteelArt*
> 
> Amazing!
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *owcraftsman*
> 
> Ditto Amazing
> 
> @snef
> 
> Are those Sharkoon Shark Blades Fans?
> 
> That's what they look like but the center fan sticker isn't familiar to me.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Thanks
> 
> Yes, they are Sharkoon shark blade
> 
> this build is a tribute to BRP
> 
> I made a custom center sticker for all fan with the BRP logo
> 
> EDIT: @Unicr0nhunter was faster than me
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and if you don't know what is BRP
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> the color theme is inspired by this little rocket
Click to expand...

Great looking fans especially for that build. The static pressure is high (2.63 mm/H2O ) which is a good thing but the CFMs (33.0 CFM) are low I do hope they work out for you.


----------



## El_Mayo

Still haven't figured out the PWM hub, any changes I made in the bios seem to get ignored, shall I try a software solution? (Fan Xpert 3)


----------



## reset1101

Hi all, Ive got one question regarding the Enthoo Primo. Lets say you have a psu like the AX860. If you install it with the fan facing upwards, the hot air comes out and it acts as semi-passive, so it takes longer for the fan to start spinning. If you install it on the Enthoo Primo sideways, the heat wouldnt have as much escape from the psu so it would get hotter sooner and the fan would start spinning earlier.

Do any of you have this kind of power supply mounted into this case and tell me his experience?

Thanks a lot.


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reset1101*
> 
> Hi all, Ive got one question regarding the Enthoo Primo. Lets say you have a psu like the AX860. If you install it with the fan facing upwards, the hot air comes out and it acts as semi-passive, so it takes longer for the fan to start spinning. If you install it on the Enthoo Primo sideways, the heat wouldnt have as much escape from the psu so it would get hotter sooner and the fan would start spinning earlier.
> 
> Do any of you have this kind of power supply mounted into this case and tell me his experience?
> 
> Thanks a lot.


A PSU fan is intake not outtake as ATX specifications say it must be intake otherwise it not an ATX PSU.


----------



## reset1101

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> A PSU fan is intake not outtake as ATX specifications say it must be intake otherwise it not an ATX PSU.


I think I didnt explain myself. I mean the fan gap, so that the hot air can come out even if the fan is not spinning.


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reset1101*
> 
> I think I didnt explain myself. I mean the fan gap, so that the hot air can come out even if the fan is not spinning.


I misunderstood you then, i would have it face down that way it can suck in cold air in from below and since cold air is heavier then hotter air its colder from below the case, i would say it makes more sense that way but it does not matter all that much in the end.


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Don't believe Cooler Master's specifications on their fans. All manufacturer provided specs should be taken with a grain of salt, but none more so than Cooler Master. They flat out lie more than any other company. None of CM's fans have ever performed anywhere near their specs in independent testing.


Yeh sickle flow by cooler master says it has static preasure of 3.1 yeh my butt. Now there blade master actually work pretty well and very cheap pwm fan. I hear jet flos our good but misunderstood if you out them at. 1600 rpm they perform as well or better than noctua in sound and coing at. 1500tpms. Any 2000 plus rpm fan is gonna be loud


----------



## Pikaru

I know this might be a stupid question, but how do I mount a rad bigger than the bottom bracket in the enthoo primo to the bottom? I'm thinking about how the build is going to go and I'm installing my fans on the rad right now, but don't know how I'd mount it at the bottom. Do people just let it sit on the bottom freely? +rep for an answer! Thanks!


----------



## Phantatsy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pikaru*
> 
> I know this might be a stupid question, but how do I mount a rad bigger than the bottom bracket in the enthoo primo to the bottom? I'm thinking about how the build is going to go and I'm installing my fans on the rad right now, but don't know how I'd mount it at the bottom. Do people just let it sit on the bottom freely? +rep for an answer! Thanks!


Remove the 2x140 bracket and there will be mounting holes. Just pop out the filters to access them from the bottom.


----------



## Pikaru

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phantatsy*
> 
> Remove the 2x140 bracket and there will be mounting holes. Just pop out the filters to access them from the bottom.


So I should mount the bottom set of fans through the holes to the rad?


----------



## Phantatsy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pikaru*
> 
> So I should mount the bottom set of fans through the holes to the rad?


Inside the case, but below the radiator.
Edit: And yes using the long radiator screws through the fan and into the radiator.


----------



## Pikaru

It sounds a little tricky, but I'll just have to put the primo on it's side to see what I'm working with. Thanks!


----------



## Phantatsy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pikaru*
> 
> It sounds a little tricky, but I'll just have to put the primo on it's side to see what I'm working with. Thanks!


Shouldn't be, but yes you will need to put it on its side to get to the holes.

Edit:

Here is a quick picture of the bottom to show the screw holes.









To take off the bracket, there are two screws on the back of the case, and one on each side.
-
Back side [outer holes, inner ones are for PSU cover]:









Window side [near Phanteks logo]:









Cable side [between pump bracket and HDD cages]:









Sorry for crappy pictures, took them with my phone real quick.
You will also need to remove at least the bottom HDD cage and the bottom mount for it for larger radiators.


----------



## Pikaru

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phantatsy*
> 
> Shouldn't be, but yes you will need to put it on its side to get to the holes.
> 
> Edit:
> 
> Here is a quick picture of the bottom to show the screw holes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To take off the bracket, there are two screws on the back of the case, and one on each side.
> -
> Back side [outer holes, inner ones are for PSU cover]:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Window side [near Phanteks logo]:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cable side [between pump bracket and HDD cages]:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry for crappy pictures, took them with my phone real quick.
> You will also need to remove at least the bottom HDD cage and the bottom mount for it for larger radiators.


Oh man! You work quick! Thanks so much!


----------



## Phantatsy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pikaru*
> 
> Oh man! You work quick! Thanks so much!


Like this forum is my job, haha.
I'm always happy to help. We've all been there at one point.


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Snef had BRP stickers made for his build ...
> 
> [build log]***** Snef's Project Renegade X *****
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1511937/build-log-snefs-project-renegade-x/


Are these the new style bc I remember them coming in all colors but they were square frames with the golf ball dots on the back


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PureBlackFire*
> 
> most LED strips I've used work this way.


If your looking for LEDs icemodZ are great go to Icemodz.com. He makes custom sleeving too great guy fast shipping good products


----------



## ANN1H1L1ST

Hello everyone! New to the forums and I am building a new PC in January. Decided on the Phanteks Enthoo Luxe for this build:

http://pcpartpicker.com/user/ANN1H1L1ST/saved/hpJp99


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shremi*
> 
> I cant belive i won this item hopefully everything works but at the price i was silling to take a chance so i guess ill be joining the club soon
> 
> $69.99


What a great deal!








Christmas came early.


----------



## Jeemil89

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *El_Mayo*
> 
> Still haven't figured out the PWM hub, any changes I made in the bios seem to get ignored, shall I try a software solution? (Fan Xpert 3)


Are you talking about the Pro/luxe hub? Have you got a fan connected to the white fan header on the hub? Is the hub connected to a true PWM fan header like a 4-pin CPU header (on most boards only the CPU headers are true PWM) ?

EDIT: Nevermind I found your previous post. Try with speedfan software to control and monitor.


----------



## snef

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Are these the new style bc I remember them coming in all colors but they were square frames with the golf ball dots on the back


these are Sharkoo fan

you talk about aerocool fan
they are great but no yellow


----------



## HammerNL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PureBlackFire*
> 
> most LED strips I've used work this way.


For me it sounds like a very basic feature, that everyone would like when having a led strip. Sometimes your build is themed around a certain color, I find it strange that not many people complain about this issue.


----------



## WHIMington

EVOLV full review by Hardware Canucks are here


----------



## Flancen

using the included fans only, how should they be positioned for optimal airflow in this big badboy that the Primo is?


----------



## taem

A few questions, sorry these are so basic but I'm totally new to all this:

I take it I can mount an MCP655 PWM pump in either of these locations?



If I put the pump in location A, can I still put a 480 rad in the bottom?

If I put the pump in location B, can I put a 240 rad in the right side mount (ie location A in my pic)?

Does an MCP655 pump attach directly to holes provided by Phanteks in the case already, or do I need to drill?

What are my mounting options if I want to use an XSPC Photon 170 res?



I take it should work fine in location C -- but does the res mount screw into the mesh area ootb without any issues or mods necessary?

Will this res fit in location D at all? Because there was this posted earlier in this thread:



This res is 170 x 75 x 75mm -- so I guess this mean it will not fit if I have two 10.5" gpus with dual slot spacing in between?

Also, with the res bracket in location D in general, are tube res mounts standardized and screw into the holes provided or do you usually need to drill holes to fit?

What about the same XSPC Photon 170 res with D5 pump combo -- dimensions are 250 x 85 x 85mm. I take it this would not fit in location D, given the measurements posted earlier. Would it work in location C? How about if I get some sort of base for it, would I be able to mount it in location A from the first pic if I take both hdd cages out?


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *taem*
> 
> A few questions, sorry these are so basic but I'm totally new to all this:
> 
> I take it I can mount an MCP655 PWM pump in either of these locations?
> 
> 
> 
> If I put the pump in location A, can I still put a 480 rad in the bottom?
> 
> If I put the pump in location B, can I put a 240 rad in the right side mount (ie location A in my pic)?
> 
> Does an MCP655 pump attach directly to holes provided by Phanteks in the case already, or do I need to drill?
> 
> What are my mounting options if I want to use an XSPC Photon 170 res?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I take it should work fine in location C -- but does the res mount screw into the mesh area ootb without any issues or mods necessary?
> 
> Will this res fit in location D at all? Because there was this posted earlier in this thread:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This res is 170 x 75 x 75mm -- so I guess this mean it will not fit if I have two 10.5" gpus with dual slot spacing in between?
> 
> Also, with the res bracket in location D in general, are tube res mounts standardized and screw into the holes provided or do you usually need to drill holes to fit?
> 
> What about the same XSPC Photon 170 res with D5 pump combo -- dimensions are 250 x 85 x 85mm. I take it this would not fit in location D, given the measurements posted earlier. Would it work in location C? How about if I get some sort of base for it, would I be able to mount it in location A from the first pic if I take both hdd cages out?


Well, those aren't really 'basic' questions and some of which there are probably not going to be definitive answers for unfortunately. I could probably try to help you a bit better than this but unfortunately I'm a few minutes from heading to work yet another 14+hr shift. Best I can say for you right now is that yes to the pump in location B even with a rad in the side but your PSU cables are going to probably want to try to fight for the same space as the pump. No to the pump in 'A' with a 480 rad, at least not in the mounting location they have for it as it goes where the lower HDD cage sits which is where the rad would be.

Max length for a GPU with a Photon res on the res bracket is 10.5". It would be very tight and just a mm either way could spoil your day. The mounting holes won't work for a Photon res. You'd have to drill your own or you could just mount the res with Industrial Strength Velcro (works surprisingly well with the Photon's backplate mount). Also, longer cards in lower slots may require you to nibble a bit out of the res bracket with a dremel. Quite a few have had to do that. It's not that hard and not that noticeable.

Will the Photon fit mounted in location C? Not sure, but would depend on the width of your card. I wanna say 'probably not' but would need someone to know exactly how wide your card(s) will be and do a bit of measuring.

Will the 170 combo fit in the HDD bays? Not sure either. I want to say probably, but I'd have to look up again just how tall that Photon 170 D5 combo is and measure.

Gotta go. No promises, but I will try to take a look at this again tomorrow to see whether or not someone else might have been able to help with anything still unanswered for you.


----------



## emsj86

Can anyone recommend me a good pump res non 5.25 bay combo that will mount easy in the enthoo pro. Not looking for the top of the line enough for 2 rad, single gpu and cpu


----------



## emsj86

I want it now
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WHIMington*
> 
> EVOLV full review by Hardware Canucks are here


----------



## jameschisholm

So do you have to turn the led strip on every time you boot it up too? whats the default?


----------



## jeffblute

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WHIMington*
> 
> EVOLV full review by Hardware Canucks are here


i need more specs on rad thicknesses and a release date, UGH


----------



## ILLmatik94

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jameschisholm*
> 
> So do you have to turn the led strip on every time you boot it up too? whats the default?


Default color is red on boot up, and you don't have to turn them on unless they were already off prior to shutting down.


----------



## ILLmatik94

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *demps709*
> 
> Two questions, does anyone else's top panel on their Luxe rattle a bit? It's bearable with my fans sub 900rpm but I can't go any higher. Even at that you can still notice a rattle. Any ideas on how to fix it? Putting pressure seems to work but I'd like a permanent solution.


I've experienced this aswell. Some rubber fan mounts I had laying around seemed to do the trick.


----------



## HiTechPixel

On either the Phanteks Pro or the Phanteks Luxe, is it possible to remove the *Front Panel I/O PCB* but keep the *Front Panel Cover* intact?


----------



## emsj86

Has anyone mount a res and Pump on the right side if there case by any chance. Enthoo pro if so can you post a picture


----------



## Dorito Bandit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HiTechPixel*
> 
> On either the Phanteks Pro or the Phanteks Luxe, is it possible to remove the *Front Panel I/O PCB* but keep the *Front Panel Cover* intact?


*Enthoo Pro*

It is secured to the case with screws. In fact, the entire case is held together with screws and can be taken apart.

Click for larger version.


----------



## Pikaru

Sad story... I didn't realize the 780 ti classy pcb was longer than the reference... tube res and the rest bracket don't fit. Have to order a bay res...


----------



## HiTechPixel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dorito Bandit*
> 
> *Enthoo Pro*
> 
> It is secured to the case with screws. In fact, the entire case is held together with screws and can be taken apart.


This I know. I'm wondering if I can remove the PCB that has all the connectors and keep the cover where it is.


----------



## Dorito Bandit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HiTechPixel*
> 
> This I know. I'm wondering if I can remove the PCB that has all the connectors and keep the cover where it is.


Do you have the case? If so, take a look and see. It looks like it is possible to me. I am not around my case right now or I would look for you.


----------



## HiTechPixel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dorito Bandit*
> 
> Do you have the case? If so, take a look and see. It looks like it is possible to me. I am not around my case right now or I would look for you.


Sadly, no. I had it for a short while but it was blemished and had scratches all around so I sent it back for a replacement which will arrive in a week or so. I forgot to take a look when I had it though.

I've looked at videos and pictures but nobody shows it clearly. I hope it's like the power button, easy to pop off. Worst case scenario I'll have to remove it by force.


----------



## Dorito Bandit

*Enthoo Pro*

$79.99 after $20.00 rebate at Newegg http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811854003 That's one great deal! If you want this case, now is a great time to buy it!


----------



## snef

now , night shots


----------



## Dorito Bandit

Snef, that looks amazing! One of the best looking builds I've ever seen! Very well done my friend!


----------



## Dorito Bandit

Snef, do you realize there is plastic covering the drive latches? I noticed it in the second pic. Not a big deal, just pointing it out in case you haven't noticed.


----------



## asgardthor

joined the Primo club!









Moved from a Corsair 540 air,

Still using my H110 with the 140's in push and some noctua's on the opposite side.

My current plan is to do a custom CPU loop and put the H110 on my 680 gtx and then we I replace the card I will add it in the loop and add another radiator.

My current loop plan is XT45 120 x 4 for the top, and I've been looking at the EK D5 X-RES, but I really only want to see the tubing so I'm trying to decide where I would want to put it and still be able to fill and bleed good

Thinking of putting it in the 5.25 bays if there is a place to mount it, since I dont use any of the bays

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/21023/ex-pmp-252/EK_D5_X-RES_Top_140_w_D5_Vario_Pump_EK-D5_Vario_X-RES_140_incl_pump.html?tl=g57c595s1938&id=PB6xUuLU


----------



## emsj86

That's probably the best build I've seen and I don't like yellow. I mean there are nice builds using 709 case lab cases but this was really well done not over the top just perfect. Want one in black and white


----------



## emsj86

Snef what led white light are you using. Also odd question to everyone but you think if I took my window panel to a glass place they could make me a none tinted window that is flush like the one that comes with the enthoo series


----------



## Pikaru

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *asgardthor*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> joined the Primo club!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Moved from a Corsair 540 air,
> 
> Still using my H110 with the 140's in push and some noctua's on the opposite side.
> 
> My current plan is to do a custom CPU loop and put the H110 on my 680 gtx and then we I replace the card I will add it in the loop and add another radiator.
> 
> My current loop plan is XT45 120 x 4 for the top, and I've been looking at the EK D5 X-RES, but I really only want to see the tubing so I'm trying to decide where I would want to put it and still be able to fill and bleed good
> 
> Thinking of putting it in the 5.25 bays if there is a place to mount it, since I dont use any of the bays
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/21023/ex-pmp-252/EK_D5_X-RES_Top_140_w_D5_Vario_Pump_EK-D5_Vario_X-RES_140_incl_pump.html?tl=g57c595s1938&id=PB6xUuLU


If you're gonna use the 5.25" bays then why not just get a bay res?


----------



## asgardthor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pikaru*
> 
> If you're gonna use the 5.25" bays then why not just get a bay res?


That was my first thought but I have check to see someone explain a way that would be easy to fill and drain it, it would make these easier for mounting however, just not sure about the rest


----------



## Fantomau

My GPU-less build. GPU on its way back from evga.


----------



## cyper.bg

Hi guys, quite a long thread you have here








I recently made a new build and used the Luxe case, which so far has been amazing









I have a few fans related questions thought:

1 - What is the best fan config with a top mounted H100i radiator? I am thinking:
Front: 2x 140mm intake
Bottom: nothing as the PSU cover is in place
Top: 4x 120mm push-pull from radiator + 1x 140mm all exhaust
Back: 1x 140mm intake (to supply fresh air for the radiator

I removed the front 200mm stock fan as it was making some repetitive clicking noise from the motor I guess. Outside the case it didn't make it, so it might be down to the way it was attached.
I put the 2x stock 140mm fans in front and I am thinking to buy 2 more for the top and back. PH-F140SP is an awesome fan according to the reviews. Extremely clean noise profile, which is what I am looking for.

2 - So do you think the Corsair AF140 Quiet Edition is better than PH-F140SP in terms of not hearing anything when in idle and fans are at around 600rpm? My case is on top of the desk literally next to me, so in the evening when it is quiet I can hear everything.Any mechanical repetitive noises are driving me crazy.

3 - Anyone selling his PH-F140SP fans? I am in the NW2, London, UK, so might come to collect.

4 - Also what are these sticks on top of each HDD case that you can pull and push back?

Here are 2 pictures of the build:



Thank you.


----------



## 2slick4u

I would use the H100i as intakes and have 1 rear exhaust for positive pressure


----------



## doyll

I see two potential problems with rear intake;
dust as it has no filter
If heat is exhausting through other back venting, how cool will the air coming in be?
The TY-140 you have there now is a very good fan. TY-147 is same fan in black / white for £5.87 at Scan. Kinda hard to beat at that price. Top intake to radiator with front, other top and front as 140mm intakes. Probably wouldn't even need a rear exhaust as air will flow out all by itself. Try removing unused PCI3 back covers. This often gives better airflow around GPU. PH-F140TS flows 40.27cfm at 44.6dBA and TY-141 flows 39.96cfm at 445.2dBA through a radiator .. to me that's the same performance.








http://www.hardware.fr/articles/886-2/protocole-test.html

I think PH-F140 fans are better than Corsair. TY-147 is easily as good as F140. It has the same specs as TY-141 shown above. Ehume picked TY-140 as one of the top 3 fans out of 60 he tested in his 2012 review for Vortez. I've got 13x F140 series fans and 15+ TY-14x series fans around here wouldn't trade any one of them for a Corsair.. well, maybe the first F140TS fans for Corsair SP140 P fans.. but would rather trade them for TY-147 fans.









And no, I'm not selling any.


----------



## cyper.bg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> I see two potential problems with rear intake;
> dust as it has no filter
> If heat is exhausting through other back venting, how cool will the air coming in be?
> The TY-140 you have there now is a very good fan. TY-147 is same fan in black / white for £5.87 at Scan. Kinda hard to beat at that price. Top intake to radiator with front, other top and front as 140mm intakes. Probably wouldn't even need a rear exhaust as air will flow out all by itself. Try removing unused PCI3 back covers. This often gives better airflow around GPU. PH-F140TS flows 40.27cfm at 44.6dBA and TY-141 flows 39.96cfm at 445.2dBA through a radiator .. to me that's the same performance.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.hardware.fr/articles/886-2/protocole-test.html
> 
> I think PH-F140 fans are better than Corsair. TY-147 is easily as good as F140. It has the same specs as TY-141 shown above. Ehume picked TY-140 as one of the top 3 fans out of 60 he tested in his 2012 review for Vortez. I've got 13x F140 series fans and 15+ TY-14x series fans around here wouldn't trade any one of them for a Corsair.. well, maybe the first F140TS fans for Corsair SP140 P fans.. but would rather trade them for TY-147 fans.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And no, I'm not selling any.


Thanks for your reply.
In regards to the dust problem I will put a magnetic fan filter at the back. Scan has a few ranging from 2 to 5 pounds.

These TY-140 that I have are from my previous setup, used them on the Prolimatech Armageddon. Unfortunately one of them started producing motor noise. I put some machine oil into its bearing yesterday and it kinda stopped. Still I can hear them.
I have a cheap fan controller that I used on my desk to listen to all my fans in complete silence (late at night) and the TY-140 fans can be heard even at low speed (700rpm).
The PH-F140SP is much quieter and only the CM Mega Flow 200mm is better, but being a 30cm distance from them, you can't hear both as the spinning HDD is louder. The TY-140 with its annoying repetitive sound can be heard.
Btw I can't find the PH-F140SP anywhere in the UK in stock and for a good price. The blue LED version is available at Scan though. Do you know if it is the exact same fan and if the LEDs can be turned off?

Now you made me contemplate between TY-147 and PH-F140SP. The first one is so much cheaper, but I am worried about the noise as the case is right next to me and I can hear everything.


----------



## doyll

A
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyper.bg*
> 
> Thanks for your reply.
> In regards to the dust problem I will put a magnetic fan filter at the back. Scan has a few ranging from 2 to 5 pounds.
> 
> These TY-140 that I have are from my previous setup, used them on the Prolimatech Armageddon. Unfortunately one of them started producing motor noise. I put some machine oil into its bearing yesterday and it kinda stopped. Still I can hear them.
> I have a cheap fan controller that I used on my desk to listen to all my fans in complete silence (late at night) and the TY-140 fans can be heard even at low speed (700rpm).
> The PH-F140SP is much quieter and only the CM Mega Flow 200mm is better, but being a 30cm distance from them, you can't hear both as the spinning HDD is louder. The TY-140 with its annoying repetitive sound can be heard.
> Btw I can't find the PH-F140SP anywhere in the UK in stock and for a good price. The blue LED version is available at Scan though. Do you know if it is the exact same fan and if the LEDs can be turned off?
> 
> Now you made me contemplate between TY-147 and PH-F140SP. The first one is so much cheaper, but I am worried about the noise as the case is right next to me and I can hear everything.


Is your sound testing with fans in working position or just setting in open space on desk?
As I said, I'm using both as well as Cryorig XT140 and XF140, NF-A15 -1500rpm, and be quiet! DRP3 cooler and all are very quiet. Oh, and all PWM fans are on PWM control. Don't know if that makes any difference though.


----------



## cyper.bg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> A
> Is your sound testing with fans in working position or just setting in open space on desk?
> As I said, I'm using both as well as Cryorig XT140 and XF140, NF-A15 -1500rpm, and be quiet! DRP3 cooler and all are very quiet. Oh, and all PWM fans are on PWM control. Don't know if that makes any difference though.


Open space on desk, but I put them on my big desk mat (like mouse pad, but much bigger), so no vibrations.
Just tested again, but with the fans being in the case: the TY-140 at the back definitely has a motor problem. I will try to oil it.
The other TY-140 + 2x PH-F140SP only have air noise and nothing mechanical that I can hear of.

But still 2x TY-140 does not fit the front of the case.


----------



## icecpu

I have Enthoo Luxe, the LED light every color except the darker blue can't save . it revert back to red everytime pc power off.
Anyone have this problem ? how to fix it ?


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyper.bg*
> 
> Open space on desk, but I put them on my big desk mat (like mouse pad, but much bigger), so no vibrations.
> Just tested again, but with the fans being in the case: the TY-140 at the back definitely has a motor problem. I will try to oil it.
> The other TY-140 + 2x PH-F140SP only have air noise and nothing mechanical that I can hear of.
> 
> But still 2x TY-140 does not fit the front of the case.


I test sound level of fans in use, not running in the open. The only time I use a fan like you tested them is in hot weather to move air in the room.









How old are your TY-140s? I've as a few running for years now and so far no problems. The first TY-143 fans I got (ball-bearing) I can now hear the bearing if I get up really close with side cover off. But even then it is barely audible.

As I don't have a Luxe I don't know if they would fit. I have modified TY-140s to be square.
Cut off about 0.5mm too much pm this one. We want to cut off everything that is above the center ring, but not hit the ring.








 
I'll mod some for you if you want. Just pay the post.


----------



## quick1unc

Just got my new Enthoo Luxe case this weekend as part of my new X99 build. Here are some initial pics of the build. Still waiting on my Swiftech H220-X to come in as well as my 2 MSI GTX 970's on Tuesday of this next week. I'm removing the bottom hard drive cage and replacing the front fan with 2 Noctua PWM 140mm fans. I'm going to leave the back exhaust fan and then of course remove the top fan to install the H220-X.

What do you guys thing would work the best for this setup intake/exhaust wise. I was thinking the 2 front 140's as intake, the top 2 on the H220-x as intake and then the rear stock fan as exhaust. I'm trying to maximize the cool air coming in from the front to keep the SLI 970's as cool as possible.


----------



## cyper.bg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> How old are your TY-140s? I've as a few running for years now and so far no problems. The first TY-143 fans I got (ball-bearing) I can now hear the bearing if I get up really close with side cover off. But even then it is barely audible.


Bought them in November 2010, so almost 4 years old. Always in Push-Pull facing upwards, so the blade is hanging on the motor.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> As I don't have a Luxe I don't know if they would fit. I have modified TY-140s to be square.


Thanks for the tip, but would definitely not going to do it. I will probably get the PH-F140SP









Btw, with one HDD cage is there any difference in cooling the case depending on its position?


----------



## Fantomau

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *icecpu*
> 
> I have Enthoo Luxe, the LED light every color except the darker blue can't save . it revert back to red everytime pc power off.
> Anyone have this problem ? how to fix it ?


I have the luxe also and I have the lights on white, But if I power down, The light goes back to red.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyper.bg*
> 
> [
> Bought them in November 2010, so almost 4 years old. Always in Push-Pull facing upwards, so the blade is hanging on the motor.
> 
> Thanks for the tip, but would definitely not going to do it. I will probably get the PH-F140SP
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Btw, with one HDD cage is there any difference in cooling the case depending on its position?


Facing front to back will let more air through them. As for using top or bottom, it's hard to say. Try each and see which cools best. There's a link in my sig to optimizing case cooling. It might give you some ideas.


----------



## icecpu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *quick1unc*
> 
> Just got my new Enthoo Luxe case this weekend as part of my new X99 build. Here are some initial pics of the build. Still waiting on my Swiftech H220-X to come in as well as my 2 MSI GTX 970's on Tuesday of this next week. I'm removing the bottom hard drive cage and replacing the front fan with 2 Noctua PWM 140mm fans. I'm going to leave the back exhaust fan and then of course remove the top fan to install the H220-X.
> 
> What do you guys thing would work the best for this setup intake/exhaust wise. I was thinking the 2 front 140's as intake, the top 2 on the H220-x as intake and then the rear stock fan as exhaust. I'm trying to maximize the cool air coming in from the front to keep the SLI 970's as cool as possible.


Nice , very similar to my rig, but my theme is blue and white


----------



## quick1unc

Nice, do you have pics? My biggest hurdle right now is finding liquid cooling solutions for the 970:\


----------



## emsj86

Anyone know where to get a frosted vinyl decal for side window made


----------



## Phantatsy

Something like this?
http://www.signazon.com/frosted-glass-decals/


----------



## Spork13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HiTechPixel*
> 
> On either the Phanteks Pro or the Phanteks Luxe, is it possible to remove the *Front Panel I/O PCB* but keep the *Front Panel Cover* intact?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HiTechPixel*
> 
> On either the Phanteks Pro or the Phanteks Luxe, is it possible to remove the *Front Panel I/O PCB* but keep the *Front Panel Cover* intact?


Yes, it is, although you will "loose" the reset button.
2 small screws hold the panel to the case.
2 small screws attach the PCB.
Note - the wiring is all soldered onto the PCB, but that is easy enough to remove without resorting to cutting or de-soldering.

If you plan on removing yours and not using it, would you be interested in selling it? (PCB and wiring) as I managed to break my headphone socket (don't ask) and wouldn't mind replacing it.


----------



## Spork13

My build is almost finished.

Recently changed the big Noctua cooler for the much better looking (IMO) Phanteks cooler and fans. (Black tower, fans white frames, black blades).
No noticeable difference in temps or noise - this cooler really does compete with the industry leaders!
Have tested temps with side off and side on - no difference at all, suggesting that (with HDD cages removed) the front 200mm fan is providing plenty of fresh air.
Today I put the Bit-fenix ATX power sleeved extension in, and added a strip of white LED lighting.

Really happy with how it's looking, never dreamed I could assemble something that looks so damn good!

Just waiting on my Icemods cable combs to add the finishing touches and I'll get some pics. up.


----------



## tolis626

Hey guys, dunno if this has been asked before, but how many LEDs can I realistically connect to the molex plug that comes from the case for lighting (The one labeled LED strip)?


----------



## ANN1H1L1ST

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *quick1unc*
> 
> Just got my new Enthoo Luxe case this weekend as part of my new X99 build. Here are some initial pics of the build. Still waiting on my Swiftech H220-X to come in as well as my 2 MSI GTX 970's on Tuesday of this next week. I'm removing the bottom hard drive cage and replacing the front fan with 2 Noctua PWM 140mm fans. I'm going to leave the back exhaust fan and then of course remove the top fan to install the H220-X.
> 
> What do you guys thing would work the best for this setup intake/exhaust wise. I was thinking the 2 front 140's as intake, the top 2 on the H220-x as intake and then the rear stock fan as exhaust. I'm trying to maximize the cool air coming in from the front to keep the SLI 970's as cool as possible.


How do you like the ASRock MoBo?


----------



## sceeZer

does anyone know exactly how long the asus 780 dc2 is with a waterblock? wondering if i can squeeze in a photon d5 combo on the bracket. is the pcb on the asus card the same length as the reference card and only the heatsink makes it longer?


----------



## quick1unc

I like the build of the AsRock motherboard and the color combination is what I was looking for as well as the specs. I haven't powered it up yet, so I can't give a review on its operation until tomorrow or wednesday. I'm waiting on my Swiftech H220-X and my 2 MSI GTX 970's. Once I get everything done I will give a full review in the AsRock X99 owners club I started.


----------



## quick1unc

Got a few more pieces installed today; Swiftech H220-X liquid cooler and replaced the front Phanteks fan with 2 140mm PWM's from Noctua. LED light strip and 970's will be here tomorrow....day by day


----------



## tatmMRKIV

well I am on my primo build now

I crammed some large watercooling equiptment in there..


----------



## ANN1H1L1ST

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *quick1unc*
> 
> I like the build of the AsRock motherboard and the color combination is what I was looking for as well as the specs. I haven't powered it up yet, so I can't give a review on its operation until tomorrow or wednesday. I'm waiting on my Swiftech H220-X and my 2 MSI GTX 970's. Once I get everything done I will give a full review in the AsRock X99 owners club I started.


Looking forward to it because I'm doing an X99 build in January. It's down to the MSI Gaming 7 or the ASRock Fatal1ty X99 MoBo's.

This is what my build is so far: http://pcpartpicker.com/user/ANN1H1L1ST/saved/hpJp99


----------



## icecpu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *quick1unc*
> 
> Got a few more pieces installed today; Swiftech H220-X liquid cooler and replaced the front Phanteks fan with 2 140mm PWM's from Noctua. LED light strip and 970's will be here tomorrow....day by day


Why didn't you put the 2 fan of H220-X on the top, just below the grilled, that way you got more space inside.
Here is my I put on the top


----------



## quick1unc

Ya I thought about that after I installed it. I had planned on doing that today when I install the video cards. I was looking at it yesterday and was like "doh" I could move that up lol.


----------



## quick1unc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ANN1H1L1ST*
> 
> Looking forward to it because I'm doing an X99 build in January. It's down to the MSI Gaming 7 or the ASRock Fatal1ty X99 MoBo's.
> 
> This is what my build is so far: http://pcpartpicker.com/user/ANN1H1L1ST/saved/hpJp99


Your build is looking good from your parts list. The only thing you might think about changing is those evga 970's. Unless you plan on watercooling them, they haven't been getting the best reviews thus far. They do seem to have some waterblock support so they are good in that respect but otherwise they have been underwhelming from what I've seen.


----------



## COMBO2

Hey guys, back after a while. My second Enthoo Primo build, but now in white. Was dedicated to my grandma as she passed recently and was built to match her coffin and reflect on her personality. Hope you all like it. Feedback would be great. I've got 2 waterblocks for the GTX 980 cards on the way.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *COMBO2*
> 
> Hey guys, back after a while. My second Enthoo Primo build, but now in white. Was dedicated to my grandma as she passed recently and was built to match her coffin and reflect on her personality. Hope you all like it. Feedback would be great. I've got 2 waterblocks for the GTX 980 cards on the way.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Pics


I've not yet seen anyone be able to mount a Photon pump combo horizontally like that. How'd that work? Do you place the case on it's front so that the res is upright to fill and bleed?


----------



## COMBO2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> I've not yet seen anyone be able to mount a Photon pump combo horizontally like that. How'd that work? Do you place the case on it's front so that the res is upright to fill and bleed?


You can initially use the second inlet as a fill port, but as the pump/res is not actually hard attached to anything, you can just tilt it up and fill/bleed it from the normal top port. It was actually surprisingly easy. Just have to have the res pretty full or the inlet on the D5 can bubble up. Right now though, it's silent. I recommend anyone getting the Photon to get it with the pump. Filling and bleeding on the regular Photon (no pump) is an absolutely nightmare, ABSOLUTE nightmare...

But yeah the res just wasnt going to fit with two GPUs in place on the res bracket. The space (where the res bracket should be) looks kind of empty right now but the Photon's diameter (75mm, more with the pump top) makes it hard to fit... and you need to pre-drill holes.


----------



## ANN1H1L1ST

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *quick1unc*
> 
> Your build is looking good from your parts list. The only thing you might think about changing is those evga 970's. Unless you plan on watercooling them, they haven't been getting the best reviews thus far. They do seem to have some waterblock support so they are good in that respect but otherwise they have been underwhelming from what I've seen.


I already have one of the 970's and have had no issues at all. I think a lot of the complaining is over reaction really because my 770 with the ACX was no different. My 970 has over clocked well and I have yet to see it get over 70 c at full load.


----------



## LegoFarmer

Hello, I am looking at new cases for my build. (I do plan to watercool in the future) and I was wondering if I should get the luxe over the pro. I like the extra features, but is it worth it?


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LegoFarmer*
> 
> Hello, I am looking at new cases for my build. (I do plan to watercool in the future) and I was wondering if I should get the luxe over the pro. I like the extra features, but is it worth it?


The main extra feature the Luxe affords over the Pro is the additional room for fans on top of the case under the removable filter. That way you aren't limited to only a 30mm rad up top with only one set of fans, which is, frankly, pitiful. The extra LED lighting and extra SSD bracket you get with the Luxe just helps add to its value even more.


----------



## LegoFarmer

Well the luxe also has the plastic cover over the intake fans in the front, and the luxe's LEDs default to red on boot (From what I read) and my scheme is blue sooo.


----------



## tatmMRKIV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *COMBO2*
> 
> You can initially use the second inlet as a fill port, but as the pump/res is not actually hard attached to anything, you can just tilt it up and fill/bleed it from the normal top port. It was actually surprisingly easy. Just have to have the res pretty full or the inlet on the D5 can bubble up. Right now though, it's silent. I recommend anyone getting the Photon to get it with the pump. Filling and bleeding on the regular Photon (no pump) is an absolutely nightmare, ABSOLUTE nightmare...
> 
> But yeah the res just wasnt going to fit with two GPUs in place on the res bracket. The space (where the res bracket should be) looks kind of empty right now but the Photon's diameter (75mm, more with the pump top) makes it hard to fit... and you need to pre-drill holes.


yeah
that wasn't letting me use my SLI cable so I just used the hex holes
nicked the res with the fan screws cuz they were too long, once I get some sorter ones I will get it on a lil better.. for all practicallity its fine though
its my spare parts rig anyways(aside from cpu mobo and ram)
https://www.dropbox.com/s/jpu1xoob6ffcfe7/20140930_113522.jpg?dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/s/hno2yqms3jnj71g/20140930_113537.jpg?dl=0


----------



## Dorito Bandit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *COMBO2*
> 
> Hey guys, back after a while. My second Enthoo Primo build, but now in white. Was dedicated to my grandma as she passed recently and was built to match her coffin and reflect on her personality. Hope you all like it. Feedback would be great. I've got 2 waterblocks for the GTX 980 cards on the way.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Sorry for your loss, and that's a very nice build and dedication to your grandma!


----------



## taem

I think I'm going to get the white Primo. Is that a bad idea though, with visible scuff marks and all? Just so sick of black cases and mbs that have red accents. Bad part is my mb has yellow accents so that should look awful inside a windowed white case.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *COMBO2*
> 
> I recommend anyone getting the Photon to get it with the pump. Filling and bleeding on the regular Photon (no pump) is an absolutely nightmare, ABSOLUTE nightmare...


Tyvm that sort of pro tip is hugely helpful for the guys who are just starting out.


----------



## quick1unc

Just wanted to give an update on my build. Got the last of my components in today so the hardware portion is finished as you can see in the pics below. Now it's time to get all the software/drivers installed and then I'll get into some cpu/gpu overclocking.


----------



## ANN1H1L1ST

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *quick1unc*
> 
> Just wanted to give an update on my build. Got the last of my components in today so the hardware portion is finished as you can see in the pics below. Now it's time to get all the software/drivers installed and then I'll get into some cpu/gpu overclocking.


Gorgeous! Can't wait until January when I start mine. I am also going for the Red/Black combo.


----------



## Pikaru

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *quick1unc*
> 
> Just wanted to give an update on my build. Got the last of my components in today so the hardware portion is finished as you can see in the pics below. Now it's time to get all the software/drivers installed and then I'll get into some cpu/gpu overclocking.


What LEDs are those?


----------



## sceeZer

Heres my current setup. there's a h105 with the red ring in there now since the h100i was DOA. Was originally gonna attach the ssd in the little window where the phanteks logo is but i was lazy and did this instead.


----------



## COMBO2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dorito Bandit*
> 
> [/SPOILER]
> 
> Sorry for your loss, and that's a very nice build and dedication to your grandma!


Thanks a lot man. Hopefully will look even better when I get the GPU blocks!








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *taem*
> 
> Tyvm that sort of pro tip is hugely helpful for the guys who are just starting out.


No worries haha. I was under the assumption that every reservoir was pretty easily filled, but then I had my first experience with a tube res using the Photon 170. Was so painful to fill... The pump combo for some reason just seemed so much easier. I think due to the glass construction (more pressure) and XSPC's anti vortex design to accommodate, it makes for a really high pressure res. I had to have the pump on to fill my regular Photon. So glad that with the combo you can just fill like a normal person within the space of a few minutes. The reg Photon took me like an hour lmao...


----------



## quick1unc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pikaru*
> 
> What LEDs are those?


they are the Phantek led add-on strip. It plugs right into the built in connector on the Luxe, so there's nothing else required, but plugging it in and running the strip wherever you want. It has sticky adhesive or whatever on one side to stick to your case.


----------



## bigaza2151

The fan hub on the enthoo pro does my head in, finally got an extension so that the fan1 can reach the hub and all it does is rev the cpu cooler up and down, i know this has to do with the sata but im supposed to plug it in, and the hub should be getting a pwm signal seeing as its plugged into the only cpu-1 input on my board

So now ive unplugged the sata and just have two front intake, and one outake running off the hub, is this even safe? Kinda annoying seeing as there not showing in bios and i cant control them which means there probably running 100 percent


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *COMBO2*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Dorito Bandit*
> 
> Sorry for your loss, and that's a very nice build and dedication to your grandma!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks a lot man. Hopefully will look even better when I get the GPU blocks!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *taem*
> 
> I think I'm going to get the white Primo. Is that a bad idea though, with visible scuff marks and all? Just so sick of black cases and mbs that have red accents. Bad part is my mb has yellow accents so that should look awful inside a windowed white case.
> Tyvm that sort of pro tip is hugely helpful for the guys who are just starting out.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> No worries haha. I was under the assumption that every reservoir was pretty easily filled, but then I had my first experience with a tube res using the Photon 170. Was so painful to fill... The pump combo for some reason just seemed so much easier. I think due to the glass construction (more pressure) and XSPC's anti vortex design to accommodate, it makes for a really high pressure res. I had to have the pump on to fill my regular Photon. So glad that with the combo you can just fill like a normal person within the space of a few minutes. The reg Photon took me like an hour lmao...
Click to expand...

The Photon reservoirs, either alone or the pump combo, are both pretty easy to fill as long as you know to tilt the reservoir. Filling either with the pump on is not a good idea. If it's straight up and down filling can be a pain because the way the fill port is it can easily become airlocked, but tilt it ~25 degrees or more (put a couple thick books under the feet on one end of your case) so that one or more of the oval-shaped holes inside the fill port are well above the others so that air can escape while fluid is entering then filling even the Photon 270 takes less than a minute.

edit: here's a post I did about the issues filling the Photon a while back ...
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> [...] One thing I would mention is you want to take note of the 4 holes in the fill port. If / when you go to fill it up the first time if you are not careful you will probably spill a bit like I did before I realized what was going on.
> 
> 
> 
> You can't just pour water straight in and have it block all 4 holes. At least one of the holes needs to allow air to escape so water can go in. The easiest way to accomplish that is to tilt the case with a few books under the feet at one end enough so that one of the holes is higher than the others. Then filling it up is pretty painless/easy. Even better still if you use a filling bottle so you can aim the liquid to the lower side of the inlet instead of using a funnel or just trying to pour it straight in.
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=16oz+wash+squeeze+bottle
> http://www.amazon.com/s?ie=UTF8&field-keywords=16oz+wash+squeeze+bottle


----------



## Spork13

oops, double posted.


----------



## Spork13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bigaza2151*
> 
> The fan hub on the enthoo pro does my head in, finally got an extension so that the fan1 can reach the hub and all it does is rev the cpu cooler up and down, i know this has to do with the sata but im supposed to plug it in, and the hub should be getting a pwm signal seeing as its plugged into the only cpu-1 input on my board
> 
> So now ive unplugged the sata and just have two front intake, and one outake running off the hub, is this even safe? Kinda annoying seeing as there not showing in bios and i cant control them which means there probably running 100 percent


It's an odd beast.
Perfectly safe to not have the SATA connected when it's connected to a PWM header.
My MB has 2 x CPU PWM headers, so I use one for cpu cooler and the other for the hub (no sata connected) which runs the case fans.
I'd have expected the case fans to run in synch with the CPU cooler fans - but they don't. I think they did to begin with, but I used the ASUS fan control magic auto everything utility and now when on "Standard" setting the case fans spin @ 0 rpm when I'm just using the 'net and only spin up during gaming, benchmarks etc., while the CPU fans spin (albeit mostly quietly and slowly) all the time.

You could just use the MB headers for case fans and not bother with the hub, I think it's more aimed at people wanting to run lots of fans for radiators.


----------



## tatmMRKIV

Lol you have no right to talk about how hard it is to fill reses till you have 2 250s inline. It wont always purge the air when you unscrew a port. And u can really only put water in one port with only 2 arms
Horizontal oriented


----------



## COMBO2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> The Photon reservoirs, either alone or the pump combo, are both pretty easy to fill as long as you know to tilt the reservoir. Filling either with the pump on is not a good idea. If it's straight up and down filling can be a pain because the way the fill port is it can easily become airlocked, but tilt it ~25 degrees or more (put a couple thick books under the feet on one end of your case) so that one or more of the oval-shaped holes inside the fill port are well above the others so that air can escape while fluid is entering then filling even the Photon 270 takes less than a minute.
> 
> edit: here's a post I did about the issues filling the Photon a while back ...


I wasn't running the pump dry, just cycling on and off to get the fluid moving haha. Believe me, I tried everything with my first photon, it just did not work... I honestly don't know why. I did fill the pump/res on an angle this time so you are most likely right there, I may well had just not had the res on large enough (or conversely, too large) angle. I just remember filling it as straight out annoying. I literally had to get a straw, get it as far in the res as possible, and then use a squeeze bottle to slowly fill it up, while powering the pump on and off every 2 seconds.


----------



## bigaza2151

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spork13*
> 
> It's an odd beast.
> My MB has 2 x CPU PWM headers, so I use one for cpu cooler and the other for the hub (no sata connected) which runs the case fans.
> I'd have expected the case fans to run in synch with the CPU cooler fans - but they don't. I think they did to begin with, but I used the ASUS fan control magic auto everything utility and now when on "Standard" setting the case fans spin @ 0 rpm when I'm just using the 'net and only spin up during gaming, benchmarks etc., while the CPU fans spin (albeit mostly quietly and slowly) all the time.
> 
> You could just use the MB headers for case fans and not bother with the hub, I think it's more aimed at people wanting to run lots of fans for radiators.


The issue i have there is, my cpu cooler uses two fans and strangely enough the only other socket labeled with any kind of fan word is the chassis fan and im already using that on a noctua fan on the hard drive bay. Its gotta have more mobo headers than just that right? Im using the msi z97 gaming 3 mobo by the way


----------



## Spork13

Says here 3 x fan headers: http://www.game-debate.com/motherboard/index.php?mot_id=2765&motherboard=MSI%20Z97%20GAMING%203

You could run a "Y" splitter to run both CPU fans off one - would (possibly) be better as they will both run the same speed.

Or, you could run the noctua fan off the hub, and run the hub from the header it was on?


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *quick1unc*
> 
> Just wanted to give an update on my build. Got the last of my components in today so the hardware portion is finished as you can see in the pics below. Now it's time to get all the software/drivers installed and then I'll get into some cpu/gpu overclocking.


Did you have any problems with getting your light strip to stick? mine keep falling down so i got so tired of it that i used some duct tape tape to get it to stick.
This is my system.


----------



## taem

I think I saw this posted here earlier but I just want to confirm:

With Enthoo Primo, if I mount a 480 rad up top in p/p, how many 5.25 bays do I lose? Iirc it was one.

I ask because I plan to put 3.5 hdds in the 5.25 bays. But would it be a bad idea to put a hdd right below an intake rad since warmed air will be blowing on to the hdd? What if I use something like the Cooler Master 4 in 3 so a 120mm fan will be blowing on the hdd from the front?


----------



## quick1unc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> Did you have any problems with getting your light strip to stick? mine keep falling down so i got so tired of it that i used some duct tape tape to get it to stick.
> This is my system.


I did have some issues getting it to stay stuck on the top, I just ended up pressing on it for a good bit all along the top and it's been fine so far.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *taem*
> 
> I think I saw this posted here earlier but I just want to confirm:
> 
> With Enthoo Primo, if I mount a 480 rad up top in p/p, how many 5.25 bays do I lose? Iirc it was one.


Depends on how think your rad will be. A 30mm thick 480 rad up top in push-pull will not impede any of the 5.25" drive bays, but a 45mm or 60mm thick one will block the top one only.

From the FAQ in the first post (courtesy Jesse @ TheModZoo):
Quote:


> *What is the space between the top of the case, and the top of the top 5.25" drive bay?*
> - The space from the top of the case to the top of the top 5.25" drive bay is 55mm or 2.16 inches. A single drive bay is 41.3mm tall, so 55+41 = 96mm. That is enough space to mount a 45mm or a 60mm rad in push pull and only loose the top drive bay.
> 
> Don't forget the fittings if you have them facing the front as they might take more space


FWIW even with a 480 XT45 up top in push-pull I was still able to fit a Koolance Flow Meter Display (DCB-FM01) in my top 5.25" bay that works with Koolance Flow meters since it doesn't extend very far into the bay at all. That's all there was room for there though. For example, my CW611 fan controller only needed ~3.5cm depth and it wouldn't even come close to fitting.
Quote:


> I ask because I plan to put 3.5 hdds in the 5.25 bays. But would it be a bad idea to put a hdd right below an intake rad since warmed air will be blowing on to the hdd? What if I use something like the Cooler Master 4 in 3 so a 120mm fan will be blowing on the hdd from the front?


The air coming through an intake rad will only be at most a degree or two above the ambient air temp. It will not be 'hot' at all unless your ambient it hot to start with. Your HDDs will benefit from the airflow.


----------



## jameschisholm

Something I think is weird, is that the default LED color is red. Wouldn't it be better to be a neutral white?


----------



## bigaza2151

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spork13*
> 
> Says here 3 x fan headers: http://www.game-debate.com/motherboard/index.php?mot_id=2765&motherboard=MSI%20Z97%20GAMING%203
> 
> You could run a "Y" splitter to run both CPU fans off one - would (possibly) be better as they will both run the same speed.
> 
> Or, you could run the noctua fan off the hub, and run the hub from the header it was on?


Ok so i got all my case fans running off the hub with the sata, i cant control them and they are all running at 100 percent but its fine coz there bitfenix fans that run virtually silent. And theres comfort in knowing that i wont overload a header coz its backed up by the sata


----------



## Jeemil89

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bigaza2151*
> 
> Ok so i got all my case fans running off the hub with the sata, i cant control them and they are all running at 100 percent but its fine coz there bitfenix fans that run virtually silent. And theres comfort in knowing that i wont overload a header coz its backed up by the sata


The fans connected to the hub will run at 100% if the additional SATA power is connected to the hub, please correct me if I'm wrong.


----------



## bigaza2151

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeemil89*
> 
> The fans connected to the hub will run at 100% if the additional SATA power is connected to the hub, please correct me if I'm wrong.


Well no you are actually supposed to connect the sata from what ive seen online, seems to be some confusion around it

There running at 100 for me either way i do it from what i can tell anyhow. Only part that was bugging me is that i cant control the fans but hey. You can barely hear them anyhow


----------



## Jeemil89

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bigaza2151*
> 
> Well no you are actually supposed to connect the sata from what ive seen online, seems to be some confusion around it
> 
> There running at 100 for me either way i do it from what i can tell anyhow. Only part that was bugging me is that i cant control the fans but hey. You can barely hear them anyhow


Oh, I got the information from Youtube reviews. I have not connected the Sata power and my fans are running fine and I'm able to control them. Do you have the non Pro Bitfenix fans? I have used them and they are super quiet, but they suck at moving air.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeemil89*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *bigaza2151*
> 
> Ok so i got all my case fans running off the hub with the sata, i cant control them and they are all running at 100 percent but its fine coz there bitfenix fans that run virtually silent. And theres comfort in knowing that i wont overload a header coz its backed up by the sata
> 
> 
> 
> The fans connected to the hub will run at 100% if the additional SATA power is connected to the hub *and the 4-pin is plugged into a non-PWM header*, please correct me if I'm wrong.
Click to expand...

- correction in *bold* -

On most mobos only the 'CPU_FAN' header is actually PWM (and sometimes the CPU_OPT is a mirror of it - also PWM but can't be controlled separately). Other CHA, OPT, etc headers may be 4-pin, but instead of a PWM signal they typically have a 5v placeholder current on the 4th pin and are voltage controlled instead.

If the fans go 100% when you plug in the PSU cable connecter (molex on the primo, sata on others) then you should double check your mobo manual / manufacturer whether the header you have it plugged into is actually a PWM header. On some mobos there sometimes is an option to change the CPU header(s) from PWM to voltage control in the BIOS.

All that said, you should only plug in the PSU connecter if you have more fans attached to the hub than your mobo header can handle by itself. Again, consult your mobo manual / manufacturer and check your fan specs.


----------



## Spork13

Documentation that came with my Pro was quite clear about using the SATA (100% fan speed) OR a fan header (controllable / variable fan speed).


----------



## bigaza2151

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeemil89*
> 
> Oh, I got the information from Youtube reviews. I have not connected the Sata power and my fans are running fine and I'm able to control them. Do you have the non Pro Bitfenix fans? I have used them and they are super quiet, but they suck at moving air.


Bitfenix spectre pro 140mm

Got 3 more on the way for top outake too


----------



## HiTechPixel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spork13*
> 
> Documentation that came with my Pro was quite clear about using the SATA (100% fan speed) OR a fan header (controllable / variable fan speed).


I think you can use both though.

SATA = 30W of power to all fans.

Fan Header = PWM control to 3-pin fans.


----------



## bigaza2151

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> - correction in *bold* -
> 
> On some mobos there sometimes is an option to change the CPU header(s) from PWM to voltage control in the bios.


That might actually where the moneys at coz im all out of ideas on why there not showing


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spork13*
> 
> Documentation that came with my Pro was quite clear about using the SATA (100% fan speed) OR a fan header (controllable / variable fan speed).


If you think you PRO manual says anything that disagrees with anything I wrote in my previous post then you have misunderstood it. It specifically states that you should not plug in the SATA connecter unless the mobo header it is plugged into is actually a PWM header which should only be the CPU_FAN header because most other headers are not actually PWM.

http://www.phanteks.com/assets/manuals/Enthoo-Pro.pdf (PDF)


----------



## Jeemil89

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> - correction in *bold* -
> 
> On most mobos only the 'CPU_FAN' header is actually PWM (and sometimes the CPU_OPT is a mirror of it - also PWM but can't be controlled separately). Other CHA, OPT, etc headers may be 4-pin, but instead of a PWM signal they typically have a 5v placeholder current on the 4th pin and are voltage controlled instead.
> 
> If the fans go 100% when you plug in the PSU cable connecter (molex on the primo, sata on others) then you should double check your mobo manual / manufacturer whether the header you have it plugged into is actually a PWM header. On some mobos there sometimes is an option to change the CPU header(s) from PWM to voltage control in the BIOS.
> 
> All that said, you should only plug in the PSU connecter if you have more fans attached to the hub than your mobo header can handle by itself. Again, consult your mobo manual / manufacturer and check your fan specs.


So you are saying that the hub can be controlled even though you have the Sata power connected, given that the hub is connected to a true PWM header on your Mobo? If so, then the reviews on youtube spread false info.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeemil89*
> 
> So you are saying that the hub can be controlled even though you have the Sata power connected, given that the hub is connected to a true PWM header on your Mobo? If so, then the reviews on youtube spread false info.


Yes, you MUST plug in the PSU cable if you have more fans connected to it than your mobo fan header can handle (if you don't you will damage your mobo) BUT it MUST be plugged into a PWM header (and that means with 99% of all mobos it needs to only be plugged into the CPU_FAN header). If you plug in the PSU connector (molex/sata) and your fans spin to 100% and you can't control them it is only because your mobo header is not PWM.

Unfortunately most people, including reviewers, do not understand at all how the Phanteks fan hub works, and the manuals have all been a little bit confusing to say the least. The fan hub lets you control 3-pin voltage controlled fans using a PWM header on your mobo.

At least with the Primo they gave you this sticker that helped explain when you should plug in the PSU connecter (the Primo hub works exactly the same as the hub with other cases and the hub sold separately except it had a molex instead of a sata PSU connector)


----------



## Jeemil89

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Yes, you MUST plug in the PSU cable if you have more fans connected to it than your mobo fan header can handle (if you don't you will damage your mobo) BUT it MUST be plugged into a PWM header (and that means with 99% of all mobos it needs to only be plugged into the CPU_FAN header). If you plug in the PSU connector (molex/sata) and your fans spin to 100% and you can't control them it is only because your mobo header is not PWM.
> 
> Unfortunately most people, including reviewers, do not understand at all how the Phanteks fan hub works, and the manuals have all been a little bit confusing to say the least. The fan hub lets you control 3-pin voltage controlled fans using a PWM header on your mobo.
> 
> At least with the Primo they gave you this sticker that helped explain when you should plug in the PSU connecter (the Primo hub works exactly the same as the hub with other cases and the hub sold separately except it had a molex instead of a sata PSU connector)


Ok this clears things up, thanks!


----------



## quick1unc

That is exactly right. I have the luxe and I had no problems hooking the fan hub to my CPU header and I'm running all the fans off of it powered by the SATA plug with full control of them as a group. I am thinking about taking the front 2 fans I installed off the hub though and doing a manual controller for them, so I can increase the fan speed on those when I'm running the graphics cards harder.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeemil89*
> 
> The fans connected to the hub will run at 100% if the additional SATA power is connected to the hub, please correct me if I'm wrong.


As other have said:
Y*ou are completely wrong.*
Some people of no understanding of how the Phanteks PWM controlled 3-pin fan hub works. It used with the PWM signal from pin-4 on motherboard PWM header to control the voltage going to the 3-pin headers on the hub. Fan 1 is "master control" to send rpm signal to motherboard.

Using the Phanteks PWM controlled 3-pin fan hub without the Sata power connected means it is nothing but a fan splitter hub using motherboard power and can damage your motherboard fan header if you run too many fans on it.

@ bigaza2151
Are you using a real PWM header that is sending a PWM signal on pin-4?


----------



## Jeemil89

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> you are completely wrong. Some people of no understanding of how the Phanteks PWM controlled 3-pin fan hub works. It used the PWM signal from pin-4 on motherboard PWM header to control the voltage going to the 3-pin headers on the hub. Fan 1 is "master control" to send rpm signal to motherboard.
> 
> Using the Phanteks PWM controlled 3-pin fan hub without the Sata power connected means it is nothing but a fan splitter hub using motherboard power and can damage your motherboard fan header if you run too many fans from it.
> 
> @ bigaza2151
> Are you using a real PWM header that is sending a PWM signal on pin-4?


We already discussed this with Unicronhunter...


----------



## quick1unc

Actually I even replaced the Phanteks hub for the one that came with my Swiftech H220-X and its basically the same thing except that it's full 4pin hub all the way around.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *quick1unc*
> 
> That is exactly right. I have the luxe and I had no problems hooking the fan hub to my CPU header and I'm running all the fans off of it powered by the SATA plug with full control of them as a group. I am thinking about taking the front 2 fans I installed off the hub though and doing a manual controller for them, so I can increase the fan speed on those when I'm running the graphics cards harder.


You could use a PWM splitter on your GPU (assuming it uses PWM fans) and a second hub to control the front fans. I haven't done it with Phanteks PWM controlled fan hub, but have done it with PWM fans.

*Setting up GPU PWM control of case fans:*

Obviously GPU fans need to be PWM. Because the GPU PWM header/plug is smaller than normal PWM we need a _Mini 4-Pin GPU (Female) to Mini 4-Pin GPU (Male) / 4-Pin Fan (Male) Cable Splitter Adapter_ is needed-. The blue wire going to normal PWM socket needs to be cut off of mini PWM plug. (You can use this wire to monitor rpm on case fan by connecting it to a normal 3pin fan plug in the rpm position.) Plug a PWM splitter into the normal PWM socket and PSU for case fans.


http://www.moddiy.com/products/Mini-4%252dPin-GPU-%28Female%29-to-Mini-4%252dPin-GPU-%28Male%29-%7B47%7D-4%252dPin-Fan-%28Male%29-Cable-Splitter.html
PWM fans hooked onto this splitter will ramp up and down with GPU fans.
Use GPU software or Bios to setup fan speed curve
There are two different graphics card PWM fan headers. Some Gigabyte have 5-pin header

https://www.moddiy.com/product_images/c/349/T1yCTgXjliXXbraisT_011936__62083_zoom.jpg
I have an adapter on mine, but can't find the link to it on modDIY.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *quick1unc*
> 
> Actually I even replaced the Phanteks hub for the one that came with my Swiftech H220-X and its basically the same thing except that it's full 4pin hub all the way around.


No, they are two entirely different things.
Swifttech is a PWM splitter with PSU power that splits the PWM signal and supplies the PWM signal and power to PWM 4--pin fans to control their speed.
Phanteks is a PWM controlled PSU powered hub that uses PWM signal to adjust / wary the power to 3-pin fans to control their speed.


----------



## quick1unc

Gotcha, thanks for the clarification


----------



## icecpu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> No, they are two entirely different things.
> Swifttech is a PWM splitter with PSU power that splits the PWM signal and supplies the PWM signal and power to PWM 4--pin fans to control their speed.
> Phanteks is a PWM controlled PSU powered hub that uses PWM signal to adjust / wary the power to 3-pin fans to control their speed.


So which one is recommended to use ? which is better ?
I Used the phantek hub currently.

Can some one clarified for me I'm doing it right ?
I use Phanteks hub, sata cable connected to PSU
the hub connected to cpu opt. header (Asus Deluxe X99 board)
2 fans from H220-X and 1 rear case fan connected to the hub


----------



## taem

Query. I know 480 will fit top and bottom. But is it a pain to work on if you install 480s? In the pix there's no room to spare. This is my first loop so I don't want to set myself up for frustration.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *icecpu*
> 
> So which one is recommended to use ? which is better ?
> I Used the phantek hub currently.
> 
> Can some one clarified for me I'm doing it right ?
> I use Phanteks hub, sata cable connected to PSU
> the hub connected to cpu opt. header (Asus Deluxe X99 board)
> 2 fans from H220-X and 1 rear case fan connected to the hub


Just curious, is the Cpu_OPT fan header independently controllable on that board? On every Asus board I've had, the Cpu_OPT is a slave to the Cpu-Fan and just follows whatever rpm or curve you set for Cpu_Fan. No clue how that would interact with the pwn hub. Also, on every Asus board I've had, only the Cpu-Fan header is true pwm (along with the Cpu-OPT which again, is not independently controllable), the chassis headers that have 4 pins are not pwm, they are DC headers with a +5v pin in place of the pulse signal pin.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *icecpu*
> 
> So which one is recommended to use ? which is better ?
> I Used the phantek hub currently.
> 
> Can some one clarified for me I'm doing it right ?
> I use Phanteks hub, sata cable connected to PSU
> the hub connected to cpu opt. header (Asus Deluxe X99 board)
> 2 fans from H220-X and 1 rear case fan connected to the hub


It not a "which one is better" kind of thing. More a "which one works for application." If you have all PWM fans the Swiftech splitter hub is great, but if you have 3-pin variable voltage fans you need the Phanteks PWM controlled variable voltage hub.

PWM splitter for PWM control of 4-pin PWM fans
PWM controlled variable voltage for 3-pin variable voltage fans.

I would use the Swiftech hub for H220-X and the Phanteks hub for case fans.


----------



## HiTechPixel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *taem*
> 
> Also, on every Asus board I've had, only the Cpu-Fan header is true pwm (along with the Cpu-OPT which again, is not independently controllable), the chassis headers that have 4 pins are not pwm, they are DC headers with a +5v pin in place of the pulse signal pin.


Starting from Z97 & X99, ASUS is apparently the only motherboard maker that supports true 4-pin PWM on all fan headers (remains to be seen on lower budget models). They can all be switched between PWM and DC mode. No other motherboard maker has this feature.


----------



## tatmMRKIV

Doyl how does running too many fans on mobo gonna damage mobo. Shouldnt it just not be able to run all of them?
When it runs out of power for the fans? I have alot of fans on mine without molex.


----------



## taem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HiTechPixel*
> 
> Starting from Z97 & X99, ASUS is apparently the only motherboard maker that supports true 4-pin PWM on all fan headers (remains to be seen on lower budget models). They can all be switched between PWM and DC mode. No other motherboard maker has this feature.


Wow that's nice, I've always loved the special Cpu-Fan header on Asus boards (for those who don't know: it's a 4 pin but there's a switch built into the housing so if you plug in a 4 pin a little knob depresses and sets the header to pwm, if you plug in a 3 pin, the switch stays up and it operates in DC mode) and wished all the headers were that way. Fantastic that they finally decided to eat the $ to convert all the headers to that design.

Sort of regret deciding to give Asrock a try now when they finally decide to do this lol. This Z97 OC Fomula I'll be putting into the Primo has a pwm cpu header, a 3 pin cpu opt, one pwm chassis header and 3 DC chassis headers. Still trying to puzzle out how I'll put it all together. Afaik there is a 30w limit on the Phanteks hub? Unless I have that wrong that's sort of limiting. The NZXT FX140 LB for example has max 6.6w, so you could only put 4 of those on there? I'll be using Swiftech 120mm PWMs for 480 rads in p/p and I don't know what the max wattage is on those, though it's certain to be lower than the NZXT FX-LBs. Probably I'll use a pair of Swiftech 8 way pwm splitters and connect those to the 2 pwm headers with 8 fans each, and 2 stock front intakes on a chassis dc header, and the rear stock fan on another dc chassis header, and connect the pump to the third and last dc chassis header. That should work I think.

Can you remove the Phanteks hub if you're not going to use it? I recall someone mentioning they broke the hub while working on the system.


----------



## quick1unc

I just ordered a new Gigabyte gaming G1 wifi board and from reading the manual it appears to have 4 pin pwm headers in all spots on the board. Decided to give up the AsRock board, not enough support and have had nothing but issues with any overclocking and stability in general.


----------



## taem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *quick1unc*
> 
> I just ordered a new Gigabyte gaming G1 wifi board and from reading the manual it appears to have 4 pin pwm headers in all spots on the board. Decided to give up the AsRock board, not enough support and have had nothing but issues with any overclocking and stability in general.


Just because it's 4 pins doesn't mean it's pwm, me and a bunch of others found that out with Asus boards (prior to Z97 and X99 as noted above) and their 4 pin dc headers. And Asus is not the only firm to do this, I've seen other boards, MSI as one example, that have 4 pin headers where the pwm signal pin is just a blank. There must be a technical reason but I have no clue.

Which Asrock board did you give up on? I like the feature set of this Asrock Z97 OC Formula, eg you can dual-gpu in slots 1 and 2 or 1 and 3 depending on your needs and there are switches to turn off pcie x16 slots, etc etc, but I'm a little alarmed at how little support there is. With Asus boards, especially rog, whatever question you've got there's a thread out there that deals with it. With this Asrock board though, there's basically one thread I've found, on Xtreme Systems, and that one is a hyper technical ram overclocking thread with guys like Nick Shih posting. I will have zero peer support for this board.


----------



## quick1unc

Reading through the manual for the Gigabyte board, it lists them all as having an active sense wire for PWM. I'll know more when I get it. The board I'm using now is the X99X Killer. Because AsRock has a smaller following there is next to no forum talk, bios updates etc to fix what we all know are various issues with this new chipset in terms of bios etc. That was the main reason I decided to get rid of it. With this chipset being so new, I didn't want to have no options for help with issues. Asus and to a smaller but still effective degree Gigabyte at least have a forum presence and are pumping out updates based on user feedback.


----------



## Jeemil89

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tatmMRKIV*
> 
> Doyl how does running too many fans on mobo gonna damage mobo. Shouldnt it just not be able to run all of them?
> When it runs out of power for the fans? I have alot of fans on mine without molex.


Too mutch current will fry the fan controller chip on your mobo. The motherboard would probably be fine but the fan headers would stop working.


----------



## taem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *quick1unc*
> 
> Reading through the manual for the Gigabyte board, it lists them all as having an active sense wire for PWM. I'll know more when I get it. The board I'm using now is the X99X Killer.


I just glanced at the manual for that board and yeah those are pwm.



I was just saying you can't go by specs that say 3 x 4-pin chassis fan headers because you get things like this:



So I've learned to look at the manual and confirm the pin layout for fan headers. Not that this is a make or break issue by any means.

Quote:


> Because AsRock has a smaller following there is next to no forum talk, bios updates etc to fix what we all know are various issues with this new chipset in terms of bios etc. That was the main reason I decided to get rid of it. With this chipset being so new, I didn't want to have no options for help with issues. Asus and to a smaller but still effective degree Gigabyte at least have a forum presence and are pumping out updates based on user feedback.


Yeah, I'm debating whether to return this Z97 OC Formula and stick with Asus like I've always done. One of my clients uses rog boards for a lot of his business machines for the support and reliability, always makes me wince when I see the boxes of top end rog boards in his office that will do nothing but process point of sales. This board was a good deal though, $189. And Z97 isn't much of a change from Z87 afaik so I'm thinking there won't be a lot of issues to kink out. This board does seem quite nice. I'll probably just stick with it, if it doesn't work out, it wasn't a huge investment, and I'll probably switch to X99 or its successor as soon as x16/x16 shows a significant lead over x8/x8.


----------



## HiTechPixel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeemil89*
> 
> Too mutch current will fry the fan controller chip on your mobo. The motherboard would probably be fine but the fan headers would stop working.


Does this apply if you only run one fan per fan header but utilize all fan headers? Seems weird if I can't use them all.


----------



## tatmMRKIV

Asrock will have a bios before too long i guess the big issue is ocn mod pissed off splave so there is no overclocking guide.


----------



## Jeemil89

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HiTechPixel*
> 
> Does this apply if you only run one fan per fan header but utilize all fan headers? Seems weird if I can't use them all.


Usually the max amperage per fan header is 1A, but check your motherboard manual for your specific mobo. But a good rule would be not to exceed 1A per header.


----------



## HiTechPixel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeemil89*
> 
> Usually the max amperage per fan header is 1A, but check your motherboard manual for your specific mobo. But a good rule would be not to exceed 1A per header.


I have Noctua fans (Noctua NF-F12 iPPC 2000 PWM and Noctua NF-A14 iPPC 2000 PWM) and their max input current are 0,1 A and 0,18 A. Think I'll be safe with only one fan per header?


----------



## taem

How good are the dust filters on the Primo? I took apart my a Define R4 to cannibalize parts to put in the Primo as I get my loop kit together and omg the dust. I was using the built in R4 filters and also a Silverstone magnetic filter on the side, dust still coated the inside. I couldn't put the Primo system together tonight because I had to wash the D14 and spend a half hour blow drying it. (Thing gets HOT!) To my eyes the Primo filters don't look like they'll block much. I've got dogs that go trail walking every day so my house is swarming with fine particles.

Primo is great though worth every penny. I'm warming to the white after initially thinking I picked wrong. I have a few quibbles but on the whole this is by far the best case I've owned, or seen in person.


----------



## Jeemil89

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HiTechPixel*
> 
> I have Noctua fans (Noctua NF-F12 iPPC 2000 PWM and Noctua NF-A14 iPPC 2000 PWM) and their max input current are 0,1 A and 0,18 A. Think I'll be safe with only one fan per header?


Absolutely. You can have many on 1 fan header, just don't exceed 1A or the max current mentioned in your mobo manual.


----------



## HiTechPixel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeemil89*
> 
> Absolutely. You can have many on 1 fan header, just don't exceed 1A or the max current mentioned in your mobo manual.


Thanks for the help. Always good to be on the safe side.


----------



## doyll

Indeed HTP. Errors on the safe side create no problems.









Like Jeemil89 said, 1 amp is the norm. I always drop another 10% and stay at 10 watt or less per header. Fans often pull more then rating during startup.

Taem
The stock filters are not great, but will catch all the big chunks. And increasing the filter increases resistance and thus lowers airflow / increases noise. I've found the stock filters to be adequate. I have a small compressor and blow out the system a couple times a year. Before using filtered intakes I had to do it monthly and wash coolers to get gunk off every year or so. Now I'm getting no gunk that doesn't brush or blow off. I have a Define R2 with Silverstone filter on bottom and wife's system has Silverstone filters. I don't see any difference in dust building an all three of them.

Will your Primo be setting on the floor? If so I would suggest raising it up 30-50mm. This will greatly increase the airflow to / from bottom vents and slow it down so it doesn't carry as much dust. Several of us use open center castor bases. Make it much easier to move around too.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *taem*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *quick1unc*
> 
> Reading through the manual for the Gigabyte board, it lists them all as having an active sense wire for PWM. I'll know more when I get it. The board I'm using now is the X99X Killer.
> 
> 
> 
> *I just glanced at the manual for that board and yeah those are pwm.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Snip
> 
> 
> 
> I was just saying you can't go by specs that say 3 x 4-pin chassis fan headers because you get things like this:
> 
> 
> 
> So I've learned to look at the manual and confirm the pin layout for fan headers. Not that this is a make or break issue by any means.
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Because AsRock has a smaller following there is next to no forum talk, bios updates etc to fix what we all know are various issues with this new chipset in terms of bios etc. That was the main reason I decided to get rid of it. With this chipset being so new, I didn't want to have no options for help with issues. Asus and to a smaller but still effective degree Gigabyte at least have a forum presence and are pumping out updates based on user feedback.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Yeah, I'm debating whether to return this Z97 OC Formula and stick with Asus like I've always done. One of my clients uses rog boards for a lot of his business machines for the support and reliability, always makes me wince when I see the boxes of top end rog boards in his office that will do nothing but process point of sales. This board was a good deal though, $189. And Z97 isn't much of a change from Z87 afaik so I'm thinking there won't be a lot of issues to kink out. This board does seem quite nice. I'll probably just stick with it, if it doesn't work out, it wasn't a huge investment, and I'll probably switch to X99 or its successor as soon as x16/x16 shows a significant lead over x8/x8
> 
> 
> .
Click to expand...

Ummm, according to that image above ONLY the CPU_FAN header has a PWM signal ("speed control") on the 4th pin while on all the others that 4th pin is a 5V ("VCC") voltage control circuit and the 'speed control' is done via the voltage (pin #2). A true 'PWM' header must have a constant full 12V on the 2nd pin and a PWM speed control on the 4th pin just like it shows only for the CPU_FAN header. Mobo 4-pin headers that are voltage control instead of PWM will have a 'vcc' (5v) placeholder circuit on the 4th pin and vary the voltage on the 2nd pin for speed control, just like it shows for all the other headers.


----------



## HiTechPixel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Indeed HTP. Errors on the safe side create no problems.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like Jeemil89 said, 1 amp is the norm. I always drop another 10% and stay at 10 watt or less per header. Fans often pull more then rating during startup.


Whoah, that's a good tip. I'll keep that in mind once I build my PC.


----------



## taem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> The stock filters are not great, but will catch all the big chunks. And increasing the filter increases resistance and thus lowers airflow / increases noise. I've found the stock filters to be adequate. I have a small compressor and blow out the system a couple times a year. Before using filtered intakes I had to do it monthly and wash coolers to get gunk off every year or so. Now I'm getting no gunk that doesn't brush or blow off. I have a Define R2 with Silverstone filter on bottom and wife's system has Silverstone filters. I don't see any difference in dust building an all three of them.
> 
> Will your Primo be setting on the floor? If so I would suggest raising it up 30-50mm. This will greatly increase the airflow to / from bottom vents and slow it down so it doesn't carry as much dust. Several of us use open center castor bases. Make it much easier to move around too.


Maybe I need to get a compressor because those cans of air don't cut it, I've been spraying those in my case every two months. I think the problem is oak pollen.

I'm thinking about putting the primo on top of my desk. It will look goofy but I want to see if that helps.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Ummm, according to that image above ONLY the CPU_FAN header has a PWM signal ("speed control") on the 4th pin while on all the others that 4th pin is a 5V ("VCC") voltage control circuit and the 'speed control' is done via the voltage (pin #2). A true 'PWM' header must have a constant full 12V on the 2nd pin and a PWM speed control on the 4th pin just like it shows only for the CPU_FAN header. Mobo 4-pin headers that are voltage control instead of PWM will have a 'vcc' (5v) placeholder circuit on the 4th pin and vary the voltage on the 2nd pin for speed control, just like it shows for all the other headers.


Ahh... so they totally fooled me. I thought speed control meant pwm signal and vcc must be 12v. The way they did that seems designed to mislead. Why use the term speed control to refer to pwm signal and dc 12v? I hope the guy with this board sees your post.

So how would you run say a pair of 480s in p/p pwm on that gig board? You need pwm signal on 16 hookups and you only have 1 pwm header.

Incidentally I wouldn't want all pwm headers since like most folks I suspect I have a bunch of 3 pin fans. I just recycled the stock Fractal fans to use as exhausts in the primo.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *taem*
> 
> Maybe I need to get a compressor because those cans of air don't cut it, I've been spraying those in my case every two months. I think the problem is oak pollen.
> 
> I'm thinking about putting the primo on top of my desk. It will look goofy but I want to see if that helps.
> .


If it is pollen, that would account for it not blowing off very well if at all. Pollen tends to be kinda sticky stuff.


----------



## quick1unc

any here with the phanteks enthoo luxe that has the swiftech h220-x front mounted? I have it mounted at the top now, but I am planning on adding an additional radiator when the waterblocks for the MSI 970 come out and I want to mount the larger rad up top since there's room for a much larger radiator setup there, but I'm not sure on room in the front.


----------



## bond32

Coming back to the Enthoo Pro tonight and all weekend... Took a brief break, went without a case for a while which I soon discovered was a bit dangerous. Got the HAF XB in, was going to continue to have my cooling gear mounted on a shelf but it doesn't seem to work like I hoped. Just going to send it back and go back to the Enthoo Pro.


----------



## Phantatsy

Has anyone powdercoated their Primo yet? Trying to come up with good ideas for the paint on mine.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tatmMRKIV*
> 
> Doyl how does running too many fans on mobo gonna damage mobo. Shouldnt it just not be able to run all of them?
> When it runs out of power for the fans? I have alot of fans on mine without molex.


If you try to pull more power than the motherboard fan header is designed to supply it overloads / overheats and can damage / destroy circuits / components.


----------



## taem

Ok odd things with the Primo fan hub, I connected all 5 stock fans to it, connected it to a Pwm header, and plugged in the molex. I ran a fan speed check using Asrock Formula Drive, the listed rpms go up normally then go to 0 at 90%, then returns to normal at 100%.

When I shut down or sleep, one of the fans connected to the hub makes a weird kachunk sound.

It wasn't doing this before I used the fan control tool in Formula Drive iirc. So, is the hub not compatible with some OS level fan software? Or is it the molex power? Iirc the ph f140sp is low enough in wattage and amperage that I can run all five off the header power yes? Ok looked it up, listed as 0.14a and 1.8w. I can disconnect the molex?


----------



## Torus15

Finally I have completed my first watercooled build, think I might have got a little carried away during the journey. It's been a labour of love for the last 8 months, as you guys know a lot of this time was research for which I have this site to thank.
I would have loved to have done a build log with details of all the modifications I've done but haven't had the time. If anyone would like particular details I'll be posting extra pictures and an explaination of how and why I did things.
He are the first few night pictures sorry that they aren't great, the room is quite dark and the camera hand held. I was going to move the rig but when I tried to lift it I failed to get the lump airbourne. Must weigh 40 to 50 kilos.









Here's the first few pictures:


----------



## snef

any tried to change the windows on a enthoo primo?

seriously in think its one of the best case but the worst windows quality of all case I never seen


----------



## COMBO2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> any tried to change the windows on a enthoo primo?
> 
> seriously in think its one of the best case but the worst windows quality of all case I never seen


Yeah I thought of changing out the acrylic with some glass but not sure yet haha. I agree that the window quality is not of the highest standard. Thin acrylic that scratches from microfiber cloths (!!!!!!)


----------



## COMBO2

By the way guys, here is the rig all finished up with the GPU waterblocks now installed. Suggestions are always welcome of course


----------



## Flancen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Torus15*
> 
> Finally I have completed my first watercooled build, think I might have got a little carried away during the journey. It's been a labour of love for the last 8 months, as you guys know a lot of this time was research for which I have this site to thank.
> I would have loved to have done a build log with details of all the modifications I've done but haven't had the time. If anyone would like particular details I'll be posting extra pictures and an explaination of how and why I did things.
> He are the first few night pictures sorry that they aren't great, the room is quite dark and the camera hand held. I was going to move the rig but when I tried to lift it I failed to get the lump airbourne. Must weigh 40 to 50 kilos.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the first few pictures:


nice build!
BUT, the Primo weighs 18kg empty, i don't think you managed to get it all the way up to 40KG^^
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *COMBO2*
> 
> By the way guys, here is the rig all finished up with the GPU waterblocks now installed. Suggestions are always welcome of course


no need for suggestions, looks great!
any pictures of the backside?


----------



## Spork13

COMBO2 and Torus15 - those both look amazing. Great effort guys.


----------



## COMBO2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Flancen*
> 
> nice build!
> BUT, the Primo weighs 18kg empty, i don't think you managed to get it all the way up to 40KG^^
> no need for suggestions, looks great!
> any pictures of the backside?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spork13*
> 
> COMBO2 and Torus15 - those both look amazing. Great effort guys.


Cheers guys!





There are a few of the rear. I don't usually put too much effort into it sort of just put the cables where I can ahaha


----------



## Torus15

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Flancen*
> 
> nice build!
> BUT, the Primo weighs 18kg empty, i don't think you managed to get it all the way up to 40KG^^
> no need for suggestions, looks great!
> any pictures of the backside?


By the time you factor in 13 fans what 2Kgs
4 copper radiators 5Kgs
2 res's one large 1 Kg
2 pumps with tops 1 kg
2 HDD 1.2 kg
Asus metal backed MB 1 Kg
A huge amount of fittings and acrylic tubing 2Kgs
five copper waterbloacks 2 Kgs
Acrylic false flooring, rear wall and Hdd cage walls 1/2 Kg
Graphcs Cards, Memory fan controller SSDs x2 2kg
Wiring Lots and Lots at least 2Kg
Coolant CPU loop took 1.5 Ltrs and the GPU loop very nearly 2 Ltrs call it 3.5 Kgs
I add that up to a conservative 23 Kgs
I will try and weigh it for a laugh, I've done a bit of weight lifting in the past but the throught of moving this lot fills me with dread.


----------



## Flancen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Torus15*
> 
> By the time you factor in 13 fans what 2Kgs
> 4 cooper radiators 5Kgs
> 2 res's one large 1 Kg
> 2 pumps with tops 1 kg
> 2 HDD 1.2 kg
> Asus metal backed MB 1 Kg
> A huge amount of fittings and acrylic tubing 2Kgs
> five cooper waterbloacks 2 Kgs
> Acrylic false flooring, rear wall and Hdd cage walls 1/2 Kg
> Graphcs Cards, Memory fan controller SSDs x2 2kg
> Wiring Lots and Lots at least 2Kg
> Coolant CPU loop took 1.5 Ltrs and the GPU loop very nearly 2 Ltrs call it 3.5 Kgs
> I add that up to a conservative 23 Kgs
> I will try and weigh it for a laugh, I've done a bit of weight lifting in the past but the throught of moving this lot fills me with dread.


didnt think of the possibility to add 4 rads
so please weigh it, might be interesting so see, the case is heavy without stuff in it


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *COMBO2*
> 
> Yeah I thought of changing out the acrylic with some glass but not sure yet haha. I agree that the window quality is not of the highest standard. Thin acrylic that scratches from microfiber cloths (!!!!!!)


Hopefully phanteks sees this and had an upgrade. I'm willing to pay for it. If I knew someone local I'd have. New window in by now. I had three side panels on all three phanteka cases with scratches and just poor quality. The rest is great but the window might be the deal breaker and have me switch to the nzxt switch 810 next build


----------



## LegoFarmer

On the Enthoo Luxe, is it possible to only remove the bottom harddrive cage and not the top?


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LegoFarmer*
> 
> On the Enthoo Luxe, is it possible to only remove the bottom harddrive cage and not the top?


Yes. The way the Phanteks HDD cages work they slide in and are attached from the top and bottom so either one or both are removable.


----------



## LegoFarmer

Building a mid-end water loop around December. Think this is fine?


----------



## quick1unc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LegoFarmer*
> 
> On the Enthoo Luxe, is it possible to only remove the bottom harddrive cage and not the top?


Yep, I took out my bottom one for more cooling from the front 2 120mm fans I installed and left the top one in for the one 3.5" hd I have.


----------



## taem

Two questions:

Anyone know of any good 5.25 to 3.5 adapters to mount hdds into the bays that play nice with the Primo tool less system? The ones I have are being very finicky.

Second, is it going to be hard for a first timer to set up a loop with 480s top and bottom? Would I be better off with a 420 top and 360 bottom, would that be easier to do?


----------



## Torus15

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *taem*
> 
> Two questions:
> 
> Anyone know of any good 5.25 to 3.5 adapters to mount hdds into the bays that play nice with the Primo tool less system? The ones I have are being very finicky.
> 
> Second, is it going to be hard for a first timer to set up a loop with 480s top and bottom? Would I be better off with a 420 top and 360 bottom, would that be easier to do?


Check Silverstone or Akasa out for some cheap 51/4" to 3.5" HDD cages I used a Silverstone one that fits up to 3 HDDs, see picture below. It allows a 120 mm fan to be mounted at one end so I used this the mount the cage to a Corsair SP 120 and an acrylic plate at the back of the bay then fixing the cage with screws to the side walls of the 51/4" bay. The quick releases just mount over the screws so you can't see them. Do you need to use the quick release for the HDD cage, if you need access to the HDDs then you might be better with a hot swap bay, again check Silverstone or Icy Dock. Be careful to measure lengths though as some may extend into the res mounting area.



Regarding the 480 in the floor, there has been posts here regarding airfllow restrictions from the under side of the case using four fans especially with them fitted hard up against the lower filters. I had a 360 I was going to fit in the floor position, but settled for a 280 mounted on the supplied plate. This also has the benefit of lifting the fans up from the filter by about 15 mm. Also opened up space in the forward compartment that I have taken full advantage off, see below.



Don't worry about being a first timer I am too, do you research, question lots and take you time. I had times of fustration with the odd leak and a pump that failed to start, but the sense of achievement in the end outways these.


----------



## Pikaru

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LegoFarmer*
> 
> 
> Building a mid-end water loop around December. Think this is fine?


What components are you using? A picture of just the loop isn't going to help much.


----------



## LegoFarmer

P9X79 Motherboard, 4820K (EK Supremacy), MSI GTX970(When block is available), Alphacool cape corp 15lt, a 420mm radiator of some sort (Won't go too big), a decent pump, and that should be everything.


----------



## LegoFarmer

Might be a dumb question ( I don't have the case to tell ), but how is the reservoir bracket mounted? From what I saw, there is only one bar by the top hard drive cage that holds it, so it appears to be lacking support at the top of the bracket. Is there a screw there, too? Just wondering.


----------



## Pikaru

http://www.tweaktown.com/image.php?image=http://imagescdn.tweaktown.com/news/3/2/32080_4_phanteks_launches_new_enthoo_primo_pc_chassis_full.jpg

That's a picture of the actual bracket. Also, you could go with an Xt45 480mm up top like I did. It wasn't too difficult to work with considering it was my first build. I've also got a 3x120mm monsta in the bottom that wasn't hard either. Kind of wish I went with a 480 since there's nothing in that lower HDD cage space


----------



## Perfect_Chaos

Can anyone advise on whether i should choose Luxe or Pro? Want to move my system from an Antec 1200 into it.. i'll build a new rig in it when Skylake comes out so i assume either one will still be pretty modern by then?

I like the Luxe since it has extra space to mount fans just under the top grill, but that front panel when removed looks a bit ugly with the 4 screw stands stuck to it. Unless removing that front panel doesn't make much difference to airflow? If it doesn't then i'd have no problem choosing it.


----------



## LegoFarmer

I'm getting the luxe, not primo. Forgot to say that, thank you though.


----------



## Pikaru

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LegoFarmer*
> 
> I'm getting the luxe, not primo. Forgot to say that, thank you though.


My bad! I didn't realize the picture you had was the luxe!


----------



## Pierre3400

A change coming in my setup...




and no, i dont run "long" 5.25 devices.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LegoFarmer*
> 
> Might be a dumb question ( I don't have the case to tell ), but how is the reservoir bracket mounted? From what I saw, there is only one bar by the top hard drive cage that holds it, so it appears to be lacking support at the top of the bracket. Is there a screw there, too? Just wondering.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LegoFarmer*
> 
> I'm getting the luxe, not primo. Forgot to say that, thank you though.


It looks like it attaches on that bar and at the top.

See here:


----------



## kalleklovn12

My Sweet "little" Case!










Gtx 780Ti sli, X99, 5820K @4.5ghz, Corsair V @3000mhz. Pretty happy!


----------



## theMoP

wow, this is a great thread - i've read the faq and watched the vids mentioned...but 607 pages! lol

sorry, if my questions have already been answered somewhere herein, but 30 minutes of advanced searches of the thread aren't bearing as much fruit as i'd hoped

i'm planning a new build in the primo and have started a thread about the build...if someone would be so kind as to assure/correct me in my assumptions

http://forum.overclock3d.net/showthread.php?t=67483

thanks a lot! =)


----------



## quick1unc

I just built a new X99 rig in the Luxe and I love it. This was my first Phanteks case and I had originally looked at the Primo, but after seeing the Luxe and getting most of the same features in a lighter package I was sold. After doing the build, I can say that it has room to do pretty much anything you want. The quality of construction is beautiful as well as the attention to detail. I would highly recommend it if you want a full size case with plenty of room for water cooling and quality of build.


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Perfect_Chaos*
> 
> Can anyone advise on whether i should choose Luxe or Pro? Want to move my system from an Antec 1200 into it.. i'll build a new rig in it when Skylake comes out so i assume either one will still be pretty modern by then? Coming from someone who has the pro if go luxe for ge fact you can mount fan or radiator above the case and have top panel hide it. This allows for push pull it a large rad without the limited space that the pro has between rad and motherboard
> 
> I like the Luxe since it has extra space to mount fans just under the top grill, but that front panel when removed looks a bit ugly with the 4 screw stands stuck to it. Unless removing that front panel doesn't make much difference to airflow? If it doesn't then i'd have no problem choosing it.


----------



## LegoFarmer

With the Enthoo Luxe, would I have enough space to rock a 45mm rad with push-pull? It would be 70mm in the case, and 25mm (pull fans) in the cage. Would I be okay?


----------



## LegoFarmer

By that I mean a 45mm thick that is 420mm long and at the top


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LegoFarmer*
> 
> With the Enthoo Luxe, would I have enough space to rock a 45mm rad with push-pull? It would be 70mm in the case, and 25mm (pull fans) in the cage. Would I be okay?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LegoFarmer*
> 
> By that I mean a 45mm thick that is 420mm long and at the top


There is 65mm space between the top of the mobo and the chassis in the top of the Luxe & Pro, with the Luxe having the additional space for a set of fans on top of the chassis under the top filter cover. There is unfortunately not enough offset to allow even a little bit of the rad & fans to overhang the top of the mobo even with 120mm series rads/fans, much less with a 140mm-series. That leaves a maximum of 40mm thickness for a rad that you can run up top in push pull with 25mm thick fans.


----------



## LegoFarmer

So 45mm in pull, or 30mm in push-pull? Which do you recommend?


----------



## leo5111

can the swiftech h320 fit up top? by eyeballing looks TIGHT


----------



## LegoFarmer

Does the Enthoo Luxe LED color save? Like if it is blue when I go to shut it down, it'll be blue on boot?


----------



## quick1unc

You're pretty much stuck resetting it everytime you power on the computer. I wish it did save, but it's not that big of a deal.


----------



## owcraftsman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *quick1unc*
> 
> You're pretty much stuck resetting it everytime you power on the computer. I wish it did save, but it's not that big of a deal.


I disagree it is a big deal and it's as bad as the shabby glass. IMO


----------



## LegoFarmer

Could I use a 45mm thick rad 420mm in length at the top without it interfering with a drive bay?


----------



## LegoFarmer

There's gotta be a work-around for the led thing, that is pretty stupid.


----------



## Spork13

Buy a strip of the colour you want and swap them in? $15. Easy.


----------



## LegoFarmer

link?


----------



## balaram

Hey guys
Its my first post
Im getting the enthoo luxe for my build
Will post pics when im done
But first I want to know
How and where can I fit the pump/res combo? Its the d5 photon 270


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *balaram*
> 
> Hey guys
> Its my first post
> Im getting the enthoo luxe for my build
> Will post pics when im done
> But first I want to know
> How and where can I fit the pump/res combo? Its the d5 photon 270


The Photon 270 D5 pump combo is a ridiculously gigantic res for that case. It's 343mm (13.5") tall and the glass tube is 73mm diameter. I'm really not sure where it could be made to fit.


----------



## Jeemil89

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *balaram*
> 
> Hey guys
> Its my first post
> Im getting the enthoo luxe for my build
> Will post pics when im done
> But first I want to know
> How and where can I fit the pump/res combo? Its the d5 photon 270


Well if you are not using any 3,5" drives or 5,25" drives then it would maybe fit behind the drive cage cover, if you have all the hard drive cages and the 5,25" cage removed. I have everything removed and a 250mm tube res and pump under it mounted behind the cover.


----------



## balaram

Hmm
I have one ssd and 2 hdd
I guess I will have to get the 170
I just thought because its only 10usd difference


----------



## bigaza2151

Should be ok to throw a 280mm radiator in this thing no problem yeah? Looking at a corsair h110 or 105


----------



## leo5111

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bigaza2151*
> 
> Should be ok to throw a 280mm radiator in this thing no problem yeah? Looking at a corsair h110 or 105


i have corsair 110 uptop right now it fits fine


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LegoFarmer*
> 
> So 45mm in pull, or 30mm in push-pull? Which do you recommend?


You will get better performance with just push or just pull and a larger rad. Than push pull on a smaller rad. Plus it's less money. Push pull doesn't have huge gains you'll get more out of a larger rad


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LegoFarmer*
> 
> link?


Icemodz.com. Very good leds and cheap plus they are sleeved and can be cut


----------



## HiTechPixel

Just got my Phanteks Enthoo Pro earlier today and have prepped it for my components. This is what I have done:

_Removed stock fans and replaced with Noctua iPPC fans.

Removed hard-drive bay.

Removed optical-drive bay.

Removed optical-drive/hard-drive cover.

Removed bottom pump mount.

Removed front I/O panel PCB._

I'm happy to tell you that there is zero flex at all and it is just as sturdy as before. But now it is a lot lighter and it looks a lot better on the inside. Very, very clean. I love you Phanteks!

I have one question:

*I have a Corsair H110. Should I use the long screws in the Acessory Box to mount it to my fans?*


----------



## shremi

Hi guys i wanted to ask a few questions so i got a really cheap primo via ebay and its going to be delivered soon basically i wanted to extend my watercooling loop since i am going SLI with 980s and i also have a 5960x coming along the way i pretty much want to be able to use most of my current rads and order only one more for the top i am planning to do it this way:

1 Purchase Alphacool NexXxoS XT45 Full Copper 420mm p/p on the top with the stock case fans
2 Use my other 2 radiators a XSPC RX360 v1 on the bottom of the case with pull fans plus i have 2 240 rads an Alphacool NexXxoS UT60 or a XSPC AX 240 that i want to mount either on the side or in the front of the case .

Which configuration you recommend me to use ???

I also think i got a V1 case and i plan to use my existing tube reservoir also but It seems that i might get into trouble fitting my cards is there somewhere i can purchase the new version of the reservoir bracket or is there a way i can mod this one ?? i know for a fact my bracket isnt the new one.

Thanks for the help any input would be appreciated


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shremi*
> 
> Hi guys i wanted to ask a few questions so i got a really cheap primo via ebay and its going to be delivered soon basically i wanted to extend my watercooling loop since i am going SLI with 980s and i also have a 5960x coming along the way i pretty much want to be able to use most of my current rads and order only one more for the top i am planning to do it this way:
> 
> 1 Purchase Alphacool NexXxoS XT45 Full Copper 420mm p/p on the top with the stock case fans
> 2 Use my other 2 radiators a XSPC RX360 v1 on the bottom of the case with pull fans plus i have 2 240 rads an Alphacool NexXxoS UT60 or a XSPC AX 240 that i want to mount either on the side or in the front of the case .
> 
> Which configuration you recommend me to use ???
> 
> I also think i got a V1 case and i plan to use my existing tube reservoir also but It seems that i might get into trouble fitting my cards is there somewhere i can purchase the new version of the reservoir bracket or is there a way i can mod this one ?? i know for a fact my bracket isnt the new one.
> 
> Thanks for the help any input would be appreciated


It doesn't really matter whether you put a 240 in the front or the side as either way you will have to lose both HDD cages. I'm not positive but I suspect you could put that AX in the side and also have the UT60 in the front.

Also, I'd seen mention here a couple times about some sort of V2 Enthoo Primo mentioned but I never saw it confirmed that ever actually happened or if so exactly what changes were made. I don't believe I've seen an image yet of a change made to the reservoir bracket nor anything else in the Enthoo Primo, much less some way to purchase a said revised one.


----------



## tatmMRKIV

When did v2 come out how do u tell?


----------



## falkonIndian

Hi all, i just joined this site and this is my first post. I'm looking to build my computer and I'm looking at a phanteks case after reading about their quality. However, with that said, I'm a bit of an idiot in real life and so I need advice. I'll list out some questions and if you can answer, I'll be forever grateful.
I intend to water cool down the road and I'm also fond of bling and tackyness. Generally I'm not considered to be subtle so my case will reflect that. Also, money no object. One shady deal and I can build three of these machines.

1. Which case? Primo or luxe ? I like the look of primo but I dislike the fact the the black one has blue LEDs fixed. I mean, if I make the internals with a red theme, then I'll have blue LEDs on the outside. The white primo solves this problem since it has white LEDs but it's painted white on the inside. I mean why would they do that? If I get the primo, then I'll install nzxt hue inside it and it always looks better if the interior is black painted. Does anyone have white primo? If so does it look good if you put LEDs inside it? LEDs are very important to me because I want lots of bling.
The luxe is an option because it has built in LEDs that can change color but I'm planning to do some really blingy water cooling and I'm concerned if the luxe might have enough space.

2. I want to do a red theme so if you know which z97 mobo has most red or white LEDs, please let me know. Also how do I get these water cooling tubes to glow? Do you put LEDs on the inside of these tubes or something? Or is the light being reflected off a case led? Some of these builds with good lighting look amazing.

3. If I do end up getting the primo, do I run the risk of reverse space? I mean, even with water cooling will the case look empty? I'm more concerned about the bottom of this case. Some builds have a radiator there. A rather fat ass one. What's that for? I mean, the rad at the top should be sufficient for the CPU block right? Or are these guys just putting a radiator to fill up the space? If that's the case, I'll buy a couple of radiators to stick in the bottom to give a more full appearance. Do let me know if I'm way off on that one.

Thanks in advance for reading and helping. You have my everlasting greatfulness.


----------



## bigaza2151

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *leo5111*
> 
> i have corsair 110 uptop right now it fits fine


probably shouldve added that im using the enthoo pro


----------



## shremi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> It doesn't really matter whether you put a 240 in the front or the side as either way you will have to lose both HDD cages. I'm not positive but I suspect you could put that AX in the side and also have the UT60 in the front.
> 
> Also, I'd seen mention here a couple times about some sort of V2 Enthoo Primo mentioned but I never saw it confirmed that ever actually happened or if so exactly what changes were made. I don't believe I've seen an image yet of a change made to the reservoir bracket nor anything else in the Enthoo Primo, much less some way to purchase a said revised one.


Thanks for the reply the case just arrived right now







the only thing that i can notice is that the pegs from the front panel are broken so it closes but doesn't stay fully closed i am not complaining since i got the case for a little less than 60 bucks ..... I know i can make something to fix it

About the reservoir bracket i just took a look closer now that i have the case with me i and i noticed that you can remove the plate and that will give you some more room so you can mount a 60mm reservoir in there i now just need to take measurements and make sure everything fits properly before i order the 420 rad


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tatmMRKIV*
> 
> When did v2 come out how do u tell?


A few mentioned it here, not sure where they heard such, but AFAIK no one has posted anything showing there ever has been a V2 Primo or specifically what changes were made to it. IIRC the rumor was one of the changes was going to be that they were going to redesign the reservoir bracket to help more easily accommodate longer cards, but I've not yet seen anyone post a pic of the case with a res bracket that has any obvious change made to it.

Unless/until I see evidence of such a change or some sort of official confirmation from a Phanteks rep or whatnot I honestly can't place much faith that the V2 Primo was ever for real. Seems more like someone's wishful thinking to me.


----------



## LegoFarmer

Okay, so with the luxe, I plan on mounting a 420m alphacool rad on top, as some may know, there are six ports on the nexXxos alphacool rads. I had plans of using one of them on the top near the fans as a bleed port when I fill the loop, but I fear that the two top ports will be blocked and I won't have a bleed port. Anybody have a 420mm rad on the top of their lux you can show me? This was probably poorly explained.


----------



## emsj86

Anyone have the 100 ml or 140ml ek d5 or ddc res pump combo. I have the enthoo pro and wanna know which one will fit better. I have a 780 with ek water block just wanna make sure I have room to install either one. Pictures would be great


----------



## demps709

I
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LegoFarmer*
> 
> Okay, so with the luxe, I plan on mounting a 420m alphacool rad on top, as some may know, there are six ports on the nexXxos alphacool rads. I had plans of using one of them on the top near the fans as a bleed port when I fill the loop, but I fear that the two top ports will be blocked and I won't have a bleed port. Anybody have a 420mm rad on the top of their lux you can show me? This was probably poorly explained.


It works, you just have to slide the rad all the way forward. I have a bitspower bleed valve on my UT60 420mm.


----------



## LegoFarmer

Thanks for the reply, bro. Mind uploading a pic if you have time?


----------



## taem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LegoFarmer*
> 
> Thanks for the reply, bro. Mind uploading a pic if you have time?


JackNaylor posted a pic of this in a different thread http://www.overclock.net/t/1440042/alphacool-ut60-push-only-or-alphacool-xt45-push-pull-480mm/0_50#post_21148721

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *demps709*
> 
> I
> It works, you just have to slide the rad all the way forward. I have a bitspower bleed valve on my UT60 420mm.


How helpful is it to have those fill and drain ports on the top like that? Enough so that if you have the option of 480 or 420 you should go 420?

Because the advantages to the 480 would be greater fan selection and better mobo compatibility should you want to switch mbs.


----------



## LegoFarmer

Demos, thank you, but I'm concerned with the lux and you have the primo, so I'm still not certain.


----------



## demps709

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LegoFarmer*
> 
> Demos, thank you, but I'm concerned with the lux and you have the primo, so I'm still not certain.


No, I have the Luxe.


----------



## demps709

The rig builder linked to the wrong one for some reason.


----------



## LegoFarmer

Okay, but you do have the luxe with the 45mm 420mm rad in it with bleed ports? That's all I need to know to be safe, and thanks again. Also, are your ports toward the rear or front? Thanks again


----------



## demps709

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LegoFarmer*
> 
> Okay, but you do have the luxe with the 45mm 420mm rad in it with bleed ports? That's all I need to know to be safe, and thanks again. Also, are your ports toward the rear or front? Thanks again


It's a 60mm thick 420 in the top and a 60mm thick 240 in the front. Ports are to the back. Here is a few quick pics I just took . Including the bleed valve.


----------



## LegoFarmer

Thank you, just one more question that I never get a true clear answer on. Does your LED preference save? I see you have white in the picture, but if you turn it off and back on, do you have to reset it or will they stay white? I have heard different things.


----------



## demps709

You have to change it every time


----------



## LegoFarmer

lol


----------



## demps709

It's kind of annoying but it just take like 6 quick taps of the LED button. Would be nice if we could mod it or something to save though.


----------



## LegoFarmer

Are the side LEDs replaceable?


----------



## Spork13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LegoFarmer*
> 
> Are the side LEDs replaceable?


_Everything_ is replaceable, just some things are easier than others.

But seriously - I don't have a Luxe so not sure, although I'd be very surprised if it wasn't fairly easy to swap them out.


----------



## shremi

So I started to measure everything to make sure I place the order for all of my parts and now it seems that my 150 res looks so tiny ..... For you guys with the primo with a cylinder res what would you recommend me to purchase ??? The only thing that is a must is that it needs an inlet on the top

Thanks for the help

Shremi


----------



## Tunz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shremi*
> 
> So I started to measure everything to make sure I place the order for all of my parts and now it seems that my 150 res looks so tiny ..... For you guys with the primo with a cylinder res what would you recommend me to purchase ??? The only thing that is a must is that it needs an inlet on the top
> 
> Thanks for the help
> 
> Shremi


Here's mine with an EK 250, and you could go with the multiport top. Sorry for the crappy pic.


----------



## CrazyElf

A few questions about the Enthoo Primo variant. Helping a buddy plan out his build:

1. Would it be possible to mount both a 120 and a 360 instead of a 480 on top? A 480 is about 533 mm in length, while a 240 is 276mm long, so a pair of radiators would be 552mm plus any gaps.

2. Would the front door close with 38mm fans installed in the front intake?



3. Finally, would a Swiftech MCP35x2 pump fit with a power supply in the back side? I think that there was one person planning exactly such a build. There seems to be a pump mount, but the MCP35x2 is a double pump, so I'm not sure how that would work out.

Thanks in advance.

Otherwise, this is is looking like a pretty impressive case. The only flaws I can see are:


Side panel seems to flex a bit and the acrylic used is not the highest quality. I think that the bottom right window could probably be eliminated.
The radiator bracket, as has been discussed extensively.
Some people don't like the door opening to the left side. I wish that could be modded.

The only modifications I would make would be apart from addressing the above:


Making the case with 9 PCI-E slots (to ensure compatibility with XL-ATX boards).
A bit taller (to allow for more clearance of thicker radiators on top).
Perhaps the side panel should be made out of a high quality borosilicate glass?
With the exception of those flaws, it looks like a near perfect case. For a first shot, it's brilliant even. Only step up in quality seems to be Case Labs and those will run 3 times as much easily.


----------



## Spork13

OK.

Have swapped the HSF for some that match the build better (and pretty much identical performance, both cooling and acoustics) as the Noctua.

Added some white LED's.

Got the Cable Combs - but they were too "loose" for the Bit-fenix sleeved extensions I'm using, so I tried something else. Need to re-do, probably with finer thread, but I think this has potential.

I found a black and white RoG Xfire bridge on evilbay, so will be replacing the gold and white one.

Then the only part that won't be black, white or red (apart from the green power LED's on the GPU's) will be the blue stickers on the RAM. But it's really sweet RAM, so I will either just live with it (it's mostly hidden under the CPU fan anyway) or maybe look for some red stickers / vinyl to cover the blue.

Pretty happy with the build now. May still change the 200mm intake for a couple of 120's - 140's, and redo my cable sewing, and do the 24 pin and the aux power connection...

Pix:

http://s808.photobucket.com/user/Sporkitus/media/PA071321_zps50dbe4a8.jpg.html

http://s808.photobucket.com/user/Sporkitus/media/PA071317_zps9f4652b9.jpg.html

http://s808.photobucket.com/user/Sporkitus/media/PA071331_zps1a37776a.jpg.html

http://s808.photobucket.com/user/Sporkitus/media/PA071327_zps0f701b01.jpg.html


----------



## HiTechPixel

Can I use the long screws in the accessory box to mount radiators to my fans?


----------



## Tunz

Depends on the radiator. For example they wouldn't fit into my alphacool rads.


----------



## HiTechPixel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tunz*
> 
> Depends on the radiator. For example they wouldn't fit into my alphacool rads.


But they can be used for that purpose, right? Or rather, it is their purpose?

I have a Corsair H110 and 2 25mm fans.

The Corsair H110 is 29mm thick + 25mm from the fans. All in all, 54mm thick.


----------



## Tunz

Yeah they can be used for that. I'm not sure how much space there is between the mounting holes and the tubes/fins on that rad, so be cautious when you're tightening them.


----------



## HiTechPixel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tunz*
> 
> Yeah they can be used for that. I'm not sure how much space there is between the mounting holes and the tubes/fins on that rad, so be cautious when you're tightening them.


Didn't work. They didn't even make it through the fans. Too short.


----------



## Jeemil89

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HiTechPixel*
> 
> Didn't work. They didn't even make it through the fans. Too short.


Wierd, the screws that came with my Pro were a bit too long for my Alphacool radiator and the wrong thread. When installing radiators just make sure not to use too long screws that could damage the radiator.


----------



## Tunz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HiTechPixel*
> 
> Didn't work. They didn't even make it through the fans. Too short.


You're talking about the screw on the left in my pic right?


----------



## HiTechPixel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeemil89*
> 
> Wierd, the screws that came with my Pro were a bit too long for my Alphacool radiator and the wrong thread. When installing radiators just make sure not to use too long screws that could damage the radiator.


I took a look at the Corsair H110 and there seems to be eight fan screws long enough for two fans in either push or pull. Which is perfect.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tunz*
> 
> You're talking about the screw on the left in my pic right?


Yes! That is the one! It just slid right through my fan.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CrazyElf*
> 
> A few questions about the Enthoo Primo variant. Helping a buddy plan out his build:
> 
> 1. Would it be possible to mount both a 120 and a 360 instead of a 480 on top? A 480 is about 533 mm in length, while a 240 is 276mm long, so a pair of radiators would be 552mm plus any gaps.


Nope. A 480 rad _just barely_ fits, and even then only with the ports towards the rear of the case. You can't mount a 480 in there with the ports towards the front. There's not enough room to mount a 120 and 360 or two 240s.
Quote:


> 2. Would the front door close with 38mm fans installed in the front intake?


The 'door' only covers the 5.25" bays. There is a pop-out filter cover in front of the front 120mm fans. There's not enough room behind it for anything thicker than a 25mm fan. If you remove the filter screen from the back of it that would give you about ~5mm more space but not anywhere close to enough for 38mm fans. If you left that filter cover panel off entirely you could put thicker fans. It wouldn't look very good imho, but to each their own.
Quote:


> 3. Finally, would a Swiftech MCP35x2 pump fit with a power supply in the back side? I think that there was one person planning exactly such a build. There seems to be a pump mount, but the MCP35x2 is a double pump, so I'm not sure how that would work out.
> 
> Thanks in advance.


There's enough room there for dual pumps but it would fight for that space with the cables coming from the PSU, how much so would depend on the length of your PSU, and you wouldn't be able to use the included pump bracket.
Quote:


> Otherwise, this is is looking like a pretty impressive case. The only flaws I can see are:
> 
> 
> Side panel seems to flex a bit and the acrylic used is not the highest quality. I think that the bottom right window could probably be eliminated.
> The radiator bracket, as has been discussed extensively.
> Some people don't like the door opening to the left side. I wish that could be modded.
> 
> The only modifications I would make would be apart from addressing the above:
> 
> 
> Making the case with 9 PCI-E slots (to ensure compatibility with XL-ATX boards).
> A bit taller (to allow for more clearance of thicker radiators on top).
> Perhaps the side panel should be made out of a high quality borosilicate glass?
> With the exception of those flaws, it looks like a near perfect case. For a first shot, it's brilliant even. Only step up in quality seems to be Case Labs and those will run 3 times as much easily.


Yeah your complaints pretty much mirror mine I have posted waaay earlier in this thread, though I think you meant the 'reservoir' bracket. To fix that bracket issue to work more easily with longer cards and reservoirs would have required the depth of the case to be a few centimeters longer. Another issue is being very limited in what 360 and 480 rads you can fit in the bottom of the case because of how tight a squeeze it is between the panel with the Phanteks logo and the PSU cover. You're limited to 125mm width rad which rules out most brand's 360s and 480s. If only they had made the case a tiny bit wider that wouldn't have been an issue. They just cut everything just a little bit too close to be practical for so many common watercooling hardware combinations.

The Primo would have been a WAAAAAAAY better case had it been just a couple centimeters taller, wider, and deeper. If they would just have made it more comparably sized to a 900D or Cosmos II it would have been unrivaled anywhere near its price range, but as it is more than a few (myself included) have found it too much of a disappointment, especially after spending money on rads and reservoirs and GPUs and waterblocks for them and then only finding out afterward everything just won't fit in the places and configuration that Phanteks' Enthoo Primo marketing vids and manual would lead someone to believe they would.


----------



## mcnumpty23

just picked up a second hand primo in the uk

but the reservoir mounting brackets missing,anyone know where i can get hold of one?


----------



## falkonIndian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *falkonIndian*
> 
> Hi all, i just joined this site and this is my first post. I'm looking to build my computer and I'm looking at a phanteks case after reading about their quality. However, with that said, I'm a bit of an idiot in real life and so I need advice. I'll list out some questions and if you can answer, I'll be forever grateful.
> I intend to water cool down the road and I'm also fond of bling and tackyness. Generally I'm not considered to be subtle so my case will reflect that. Also, money no object. One shady deal and I can build three of these machines.
> 
> 1. Which case? Primo or luxe ? I like the look of primo but I dislike the fact the the black one has blue LEDs fixed. I mean, if I make the internals with a red theme, then I'll have blue LEDs on the outside. The white primo solves this problem since it has white LEDs but it's painted white on the inside. I mean why would they do that? If I get the primo, then I'll install nzxt hue inside it and it always looks better if the interior is black painted. Does anyone have white primo? If so does it look good if you put LEDs inside it? LEDs are very important to me because I want lots of bling.
> The luxe is an option because it has built in LEDs that can change color but I'm planning to do some really blingy water cooling and I'm concerned if the luxe might have enough space.
> 
> 2. I want to do a red theme so if you know which z97 mobo has most red or white LEDs, please let me know. Also how do I get these water cooling tubes to glow? Do you put LEDs on the inside of these tubes or something? Or is the light being reflected off a case led? Some of these builds with good lighting look amazing.
> 
> 3. If I do end up getting the primo, do I run the risk of reverse space? I mean, even with water cooling will the case look empty? I'm more concerned about the bottom of this case. Some builds have a radiator there. A rather fat ass one. What's that for? I mean, the rad at the top should be sufficient for the CPU block right? Or are these guys just putting a radiator to fill up the space? If that's the case, I'll buy a couple of radiators to stick in the bottom to give a more full appearance. Do let me know if I'm way off on that one.
> 
> Thanks in advance for reading and helping. You have my everlasting greatfulness.


No replies or help? I'm a good person I promise.


----------



## shremi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tunz*
> 
> Here's mine with an EK 250, and you could go with the multiport top. Sorry for the crappy pic.


Thanks for the suggestion + REP

i was browsing for a new reservoir and i came across the XSPC photon i really like the idea of the glass instead of acrylic and that it has a room for a LED ... I know this res is a lot different from the other since the mounting options are different and also a bit wider than the others at 70mm .... Is anyone using this res with the Primo ???? If so how did you manage to mount it ???? And also my cards are going to be 10.5 inches which i know they are barely going to make it ..... Any suggestions on this concern ???

Thanks

Shremi


----------



## Phantatsy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *falkonIndian*
> 
> Hi all, i just joined this site and this is my first post. I'm looking to build my computer and I'm looking at a phanteks case after reading about their quality. However, with that said, I'm a bit of an idiot in real life and so I need advice. I'll list out some questions and if you can answer, I'll be forever grateful.
> I intend to water cool down the road and I'm also fond of bling and tackyness. Generally I'm not considered to be subtle so my case will reflect that. Also, money no object. One shady deal and I can build three of these machines.
> 
> 1. Which case? Primo or luxe ? I like the look of primo but I dislike the fact the the black one has blue LEDs fixed. I mean, if I make the internals with a red theme, then I'll have blue LEDs on the outside. The white primo solves this problem since it has white LEDs but it's painted white on the inside. I mean why would they do that? If I get the primo, then I'll install nzxt hue inside it and it always looks better if the interior is black painted. Does anyone have white primo? If so does it look good if you put LEDs inside it? LEDs are very important to me because I want lots of bling.
> The luxe is an option because it has built in LEDs that can change color but I'm planning to do some really blingy water cooling and I'm concerned if the luxe might have enough space.
> 
> 2. I want to do a red theme so if you know which z97 mobo has most red or white LEDs, please let me know. Also how do I get these water cooling tubes to glow? Do you put LEDs on the inside of these tubes or something? Or is the light being reflected off a case led? Some of these builds with good lighting look amazing.
> 
> 3. If I do end up getting the primo, do I run the risk of reverse space? I mean, even with water cooling will the case look empty? I'm more concerned about the bottom of this case. Some builds have a radiator there. A rather fat ass one. What's that for? I mean, the rad at the top should be sufficient for the CPU block right? Or are these guys just putting a radiator to fill up the space? If that's the case, I'll buy a couple of radiators to stick in the bottom to give a more full appearance. Do let me know if I'm way off on that one.
> 
> Thanks in advance for reading and helping. You have my everlasting greatfulness.


Sorry, didn't see your post. I will try to help all that I can.
1. Don't let the LEDs deter you away. They are super easy to replace for a different color!
2. Asus ROG motherboards fits the bill here. As for the lights, no idea. Sorry.
3. More radiators = more cooling. If you're cooling more than the CPU then more helps.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shremi*
> 
> i was browsing for a new reservoir and i came across the XSPC photon i really like the idea of the glass instead of acrylic and that it has a room for a LED ... I know this res is a lot different from the other since the mounting options are different and also a bit wider than the others at 70mm .... Is anyone using this res with the Primo ???? If so how did you manage to mount it ???? And also my cards are going to be 10.5 inches which i know they are barely going to make it ..... Any suggestions on this concern ???
> 
> Thanks
> 
> Shremi


This comes up quite a bit. I mounted my Photon to the res bracket using Industrial Strength Velcro. Other wise you'll need to drill a couple holes. Take the bracket off the back of the Photon, hold it up to where you want to mount it on the bracket, and using the holes in the Photon's bracket mark the places you'll need to drill.

That said, multiple 10.5" cards may not want to fit in the Primo, at least not without removing or modifying the res bracket, and on top of that they would be a VERY tight fit with the Photon res on that bracket.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Here's a few pics I snapped a while back measuring the length of GPU that can fit without modding the bracket and with a Photon res:
> 
> 
> 
> ^ The 'ledge' in that pic is at the bottom of the 5.25" bays and it's what will limit how far you can move a reservoir over to the right on the bracket.
> 
> 
> 
> ^ And that's with the Photon all the way to the right as far as it will go on the bracket leaving 10.5" max length for GPU(s).
> 
> [...]


It'll be so close I wouldn't be able to venture to say whether it'll work or not. You'll probably need to take a bit of a gamble and get the parts in hand to see for sure if they fit or not, and if not then you may have to change plans or have a little modding to do. Worst case it's nothing that couldn't be remedied by taking a nibble out of the lower part of the res bracket with a dremel to make room for a longer card in a lower slot and/or out of the lower 5.25" bay ledge so you can shift the reservoir a few mm's to the right.


----------



## CrazyElf

Thanks a lot for the help. +Rep.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Nope. A 480 rad _just barely_ fits, and even then only with the ports towards the rear of the case. You can't mount a 480 in there with the ports towards the front. There's not enough room to mount a 120 and 360 or two 240s.


Will have to tell my buddy that. It looks like he's going to have to replan his loop. I've recommended to him that he put the 360 on top and a 120 on the rear exhaust.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> The 'door' only covers the 5.25" bays. There is a pop-out filter cover in front of the front 120mm fans. There's not enough room behind it for anything thicker than a 25mm fan. If you remove the filter screen from the back of it that would give you about ~5mm more space but not anywhere close to enough for 38mm fans. If you left that filter cover panel off entirely you could put thicker fans. It wouldn't look very good imho, but to each their own.


Yeah I'll have to tell him that too. He might just get one of those custom mods.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> There's enough room there for dual pumps but it would fight for that space with the cables coming from the PSU, how much so would depend on the length of your PSU, and you wouldn't be able to use the included pump bracket.


So long as it fits, it's good enough.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Yeah your complaints pretty much mirror mine I have posted waaay earlier in this thread, though I think you meant the 'reservoir' bracket. To fix that bracket issue to work more easily with longer cards and reservoirs would have required the depth of the case to be a few centimeters longer. Another issue is being very limited in what 360 and 480 rads you can fit in the bottom of the case because of how tight a squeeze it is between the panel with the Phanteks logo and the PSU cover. You're limited to 125mm width rad which rules out most brand's 360s and 480s. If only they had made the case a tiny bit wider that wouldn't have been an issue. They just cut everything just a little bit too close to be practical for so many common watercooling hardware combinations.
> 
> The Primo would have been a WAAAAAAAY better case had it been just a couple centimeters taller, wider, and deeper. If they would just have made it more comparably sized to a 900D or Cosmos II it would have been unrivaled anywhere near its price range, but as it is more than a few (myself included) have found it too much of a disappointment, especially after spending money on rads and reservoirs and GPUs and waterblocks for them and then only finding out afterward everything just won't fit in the places and configuration that Phanteks' Enthoo Primo marketing vids and manual would lead someone to believe they would.


To be honest, I'm looking at building a very similar build next year to my buddy. The layout is perfect, but yeah, it was just a bit too small. I wish that they had made a slightly larger case at ~$300 USD. Perhaps this is their equal to an 800D and they will make a 900D.

If I make a build next year, I'm debating whether to go with this case or to spend a few hundred extra and go Case Labs. The Case Labs quality seems to be in its own category.

Edit: My guess is the SMA8 is the most comparable case to the Enthoo Primo.


----------



## taem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> This comes up quite a bit. I mounted my Photon to the res bracket using [velcro]. Other wise you'll need to drill a couple holes. Take the bracket off the back of the Photon, hold it up to where you want to mount it on the bracket, and using the holes in the Photon's bracket mark the places you'll need to drill.


I've been tracking your posts in this thread, you've been hugely helpful and I thank you for that. I think I need to give up on the Photon but let me make sure.

To fit a Photon 270 on the rear of the case, what would be limits in terms of rad thickness and fan setup top and bottom? I'm assuming UT60 in p/p would not allow a 270 Photon even without the pump. But could I do XT45 p/p top and bottom and fit the res, if I remove the stock rear exhaust fan? (That would mean zero exhaust fans, but I'm hoping the well vented rear might make that ok.)

I think you said a 270 Photon cannot fit on the res bracket even if you drill holes because the upper mount goes into the sloped part at the top of the bracket?
Quote:


> That said, multiple 10.5" cards may not want to fit in the Primo, at least not without removing or modifying the res bracket, and on top of that they would be a VERY tight fit with the Photon res on that bracket.
> It'll be so close I wouldn't be able to venture to say whether it'll work or not. You'll probably need to take a bit of a gamble and get the parts in hand to see for sure if they fit or not, and if not then you may have to change plans or have a little modding to do. Worst case it's nothing that couldn't be remedied by taking a nibble out of the lower part of the res bracket with a dremel to make room for a longer card in a lower slot and/or out of the lower 5.25" bay ledge so you can shift the reservoir a few mm's to the right.


Wow is it that tight? The XSPC Razor backplate for the 290/x is 267mm, which is a hair longer that 10.5 inches (266.7mm). My board seats Gpus in the 1st and 3rd pice slots, I assumed that would allow the 70mm diameter Photon on the res bracket with holes drilled to move it as far to the right as possible.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *taem*
> 
> I've been tracking your posts in this thread, you've been hugely helpful and I thank you for that. I think I need to give up on the Photon but let me make sure.
> 
> To fit a Photon 270 on the rear of the case, what would be limits in terms of rad thickness and fan setup top and bottom? I'm assuming UT60 in p/p would not allow a 270 Photon even without the pump. But could I do XT45 p/p top and bottom and fit the res, if I remove the stock rear exhaust fan? (That would mean zero exhaust fans, but I'm hoping the well vented rear might make that ok.)


I have an XT45 up top and a Monsta in the bottom, both in push-pull, and there's less than 15mm top and bottom for a Photon 270. It makes trying to use the fill port on top of the res all but impossible. I had to order an 'Anex' low profile screwdriver set from Japan that will fit, and that's just to crack open and close the Photon's port. I don't actually use it to fill my loop. I use the top-facing ports on my top rad for that so I can fill my whole loop up in one go so there's little-to-no bleeding necessary. I only open up the Photon's fill port to allow air to escape while I'm filling and I cap it off once the res gets full and continue filling my loop the rest of the way up.

Honestly, even though I managed to squeeze one in there, I would never recommend a Photon 270 in the Primo. It's way too big of a res for this case. The Photon 170 is a much better fit, and it's still a really big res for the Primo..
Quote:


> I think you said a 270 Photon cannot fit on the res bracket even if you drill holes because the upper mount goes into the sloped part at the top of the bracket?
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> That said, multiple 10.5" cards may not want to fit in the Primo, at least not without removing or modifying the res bracket, and on top of that they would be a VERY tight fit with the Photon res on that bracket.
> It'll be so close I wouldn't be able to venture to say whether it'll work or not. You'll probably need to take a bit of a gamble and get the parts in hand to see for sure if they fit or not, and if not then you may have to change plans or have a little modding to do. Worst case it's nothing that couldn't be remedied by taking a nibble out of the lower part of the res bracket with a dremel to make room for a longer card in a lower slot and/or out of the lower 5.25" bay ledge so you can shift the reservoir a few mm's to the right.
Click to expand...

Yeah I'm glad you reminded me of that. Since I mounted mine with velcro I had forgotten about the fact that the top holes in the Photon's backplate are too high for the Primo's bracket. If you really want to bolt it in place you'll have to drill some holes anyway in the res bracket, so having to drill a couple more in the Photon's backplate at a lower level that works for the res bracket too shouldn't be much more of an issue.

Like I've said many times before, if you're not comfortable and/or equipped to drill some holes or break out a dremel when necessary then you might want to reconsider whether custom loop water cooling is right for you. It's very rare that a custom loop will go into a case without at least a little bit of modding.
Quote:


> Wow is it that tight? The XSPC Razor backplate for the 290/x is 267mm, which is a hair longer that 10.5 inches (266.7mm). My board seats Gpus in the 1st and 3rd pice slots, I assumed that would allow the 70mm diameter Photon on the res bracket with holes drilled to move it as far to the right as possible.


It might fit. As I measured it it looks like it will be very close, so much so I couldn't say for certain either way. There have been more than a few people who have been able to fit multiple 10.5" cards in the Primo and just as many who couldn't without taking a dremel to that lower part of the bracket, but that has always been with a more traditional 60mm wide res. I don't know that I've seen anyone yet fit a 10.5" card in the case with a Photon res. Not saying it can't be done. I don't recall seeing anyone yet who tried.

I'm currently running tri-sli with GTX760s which have a short 6" (151mm) PCB (I'm upgrading to triple 970s as we speak, which have the exact same PCB and can use the same waterblocks) so the length of my GPUs was never an issue for me with this case.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CrazyElf*
> 
> To be honest, I'm looking at building a very similar build next year to my buddy. The layout is perfect, but yeah, it was just a bit too small. I wish that they had made a slightly larger case at ~$300 USD. Perhaps this is their equal to an 800D and they will make a 900D.
> 
> If I make a build next year, I'm debating whether to go with this case or to spend a few hundred extra and go Case Labs. The Case Labs quality seems to be in its own category.
> 
> Edit: My guess is the SMA8 is the most comparable case to the Enthoo Primo.


Yeah, when I pre-ordered my Enthoo Primo we had to wait months before the cases actually shipped, and we didn't know a lot about the case and what would actually fit or not. I seem to be in the minority around here but after my two previous builds being in a 900D and a Cosmos II I was immediately disappointed how much smaller the Primo was. Almost nothing I originally planned to put in the case would fit like I wanted, starting with my XPower mobo. Instead of moving parts over for a quick build I had to start over from scratch, which wasn't what I had planned. I do like the Primo for what it is, but it's just a bit too small for me in every direction. I can only imagine what all people are going through trying to build in the Luxe or Pro.

I've already started gathering the parts for my next build in a TH10A.


----------



## taem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> I have an XT45 up top and a Monsta in the bottom, both in push-pull, and there's less than 15mm top and bottom for a Photon 270. It makes trying to use the fill port on top of the res all but impossible. I had to order an 'Anex' low profile screwdriver set from Japan that will fit, and that's just to crack open and close the Photon's port. I don't actually use it to fill my loop. I use the top-facing ports on my top rad for that so I can fill my whole loop up in one go so there's little-to-no bleeding necessary. I only open up the Photon's fill port to allow air to escape while I'm filling and I cap it off once the res gets full and continue filling my loop the rest of the way up.
> 
> Honestly, even though I managed to squeeze one in there, I would never recommend a Photon 270 in the Primo. It's way too big of a res for this case. The Photon 170 is a much better fit, and it's still a really big res for the Primo..


Hmm... If I were to go xt45 top and bottom that gives 41mm more clearance compared to your setup. So that could work. I too plan on a fill/bleed on top rad (going with 420 rather than 480 for this reason). I just don't like the squatty body look of the 170, the 270 has such better lines. Otoh I'm not paying attention to aesthetics elsewhere. And then there is the question of whether the looks of a Photon 270 outweighs the slight performance increase of thicker rads. Maybe I should just do a micro-res hidden away psu side.

But in terms of 270 Photon being too big for the Primo... How many mainstream cases are there that are bigger than the Primo?! Crazy.

One other thing. I like the way you set up your drain port (you posted a pic a while back), that can be done with a 480 right? As long as you remove lower had cage? I know you're using a 360 and I might do that too just to preserve options in that area but I'm trying to sort out all my options.

Oh one last thing. I don't recall if it was you or someone else who commented that the Photon is a pita to bleed if you get just the res and hook it up to a separate pump, but is that still an issue if you fill from the top rad?


----------



## Pierre3400

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> This comes up quite a bit. I mounted my Photon to the res bracket using Industrial Strength Velcro. Other wise you'll need to drill a couple holes. Take the bracket off the back of the Photon, hold it up to where you want to mount it on the bracket, and using the holes in the Photon's bracket mark the places you'll need to drill.
> 
> That said, multiple 10.5" cards may not want to fit in the Primo, at least not without removing or modifying the res bracket, and on top of that they would be a VERY tight fit with the Photon res on that bracket.
> It'll be so close I wouldn't be able to venture to say whether it'll work or not. You'll probably need to take a bit of a gamble and get the parts in hand to see for sure if they fit or not, and if not then you may have to change plans or have a little modding to do. Worst case it's nothing that couldn't be remedied by taking a nibble out of the lower part of the res bracket with a dremel to make room for a longer card in a lower slot and/or out of the lower 5.25" bay ledge so you can shift the reservoir a few mm's to the right.


I am confused about this.

My 7970's are just over 10.5" / 27cm cm, and had no issues with my Photon res.




With that said, i have moved mine now to a better location.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *taem*
> 
> Hmm... If I were to go xt45 top and bottom that gives 41mm more clearance compared to your setup. So that could work. I too plan on a fill/bleed on top rad (going with 420 rather than 480 for this reason). I just don't like the squatty body look of the 170, the 270 has such better lines. Otoh I'm not paying attention to aesthetics elsewhere. And then there is the question of whether the looks of a Photon 270 outweighs the slight performance increase of thicker rads. Maybe I should just do a micro-res hidden away psu side.
> 
> But in terms of 270 Photon being too big for the Primo... How many mainstream cases are there that are bigger than the Primo?! Crazy.


The Primo is not all that large. It's a comparable size to a Phantom 820, nowhere near as large as a 900D or a Cosmos II. It does make better use of the space it has than most cases do especially when it comes to what all can fit watercooling-wise, but honestly it's been a big disappointment to me just how small it is.
Quote:


> One other thing. I like the way you set up your drain port (you posted a pic a while back), that can be done with a 480 right? As long as you remove lower had cage? I know you're using a 360 and I might do that too just to preserve options in that area but I'm trying to sort out all my options.


I'm not certain but I would assume it would be even easier to put a drain like that with a 480 as with a 360 with the HDD cages in place it's a very tight fit.

Do note that the only low-profile 90 degree angle fittings I found that will work (that will make the turn in less than the 25mm space of the bottom fans) were the Koolance (NZL-LXG2-BK) and Phobya (64066). I'm using the Phobya but If I had to do it again I'd rather have added a shroud/gasket to my lower rad to give me a few more mms of space to be able to use a Bitspower 90 rotary instead. Unfortunately that wasn't an option for me because that would be even less space for my Photon 270 res.
Quote:


> Oh one last thing. I don't recall if it was you or someone else who commented that the Photon is a pita to bleed if you get just the res and hook it up to a separate pump, but is that still an issue if you fill from the top rad?


The way I fill my loop bleeding is really not an issue at all. I crack open the res fill port just enough to let air escape out it and I fill my loop from the top then seal off the res fill port when the fluid reaches the top of the res and then continue filling the rest of the loop. With both top-facing ports open for the top rad I'm able to fill the entire loop including the top rad completely up.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pierre3400*
> 
> I am confused about this.
> 
> My 7970's are just over 10.5" / 27cm cm, and had no issues with my Photon res.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Images
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With that said, i have moved mine now to a better location.


I'm glad you posted that. That's the first build I've seen (or noticed) of a Photon with longer cards in the Primo.

Not sure what you are confused about unless you missed my post above with the pics measuring the space available. All I was able to tell from those measurements is that a ~10.5" card would be a very tight fit next to a Photon, and without knowing EXACTLY how long a card's PCB is I wouldn't feel comfortable saying what would or wouldn't fit either way. Do you know how long exactly the pcbs are on your 7970s and how much space there is between the Photon and the cards?

Also, did you have to mod your res bracket? It looks like you had to have but it's hidden behind the GPU cables.


----------



## shremi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> This comes up quite a bit. I mounted my Photon to the res bracket using Industrial Strength Velcro. Other wise you'll need to drill a couple holes. Take the bracket off the back of the Photon, hold it up to where you want to mount it on the bracket, and using the holes in the Photon's bracket mark the places you'll need to drill.
> 
> That said, multiple 10.5" cards may not want to fit in the Primo, at least not without removing or modifying the res bracket, and on top of that they would be a VERY tight fit with the Photon res on that bracket.
> It'll be so close I wouldn't be able to venture to say whether it'll work or not. You'll probably need to take a bit of a gamble and get the parts in hand to see for sure if they fit or not, and if not then you may have to change plans or have a little modding to do. Worst case it's nothing that couldn't be remedied by taking a nibble out of the lower part of the res bracket with a dremel to make room for a longer card in a lower slot and/or out of the lower 5.25" bay ledge so you can shift the reservoir a few mm's to the right.


Thank you so much for your reply + REP ..... I am not worried at all for modding the case drilling holes or even use some Velcro to make the fit ..... I plan to use the cards on slots 1 and 4 from what i see in your pics ill take it that i can clear the bracket or else dremmel time









The thing that now got me thinking is that reading a couple of your next posts you are stating that there is almost no room to use the top ports of the reservoir if you go p/p i with the X45 rad which is i am planning to use .... my problem is that i not only need this ports to be available to fill the loop but i really like to use the top ports for the inlet so ill take it that no fitting will come close to fit in there ..... I will be reusing an 360 60mm on the bottom also with p/p fans....

The only options that i think would be to lower a bit the reservoir since i have more space in the bottom but i dont know if it will look aesthetically or just to settle for the 170 photon instead.....

Thanks a lot i really appreciate your feedback since i am purchasing from over seas i want to make sure i got pretty much everything i need so i don't have to reorder


----------



## Pierre3400

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> I'm glad you posted that. That's the first build I've seen (or noticed) of a Photon with longer cards in the Primo.
> 
> Not sure what you are confused about unless you missed my post above with the pics measuring the space available. All I was able to tell from those measurements is that a ~10.5" card would be a very tight fit next to a Photon, and without knowing EXACTLY how long a card's PCB is I wouldn't feel comfortable saying what would or wouldn't fit either way. Do you know how long exactly the pcbs are on your 7970s and how much space there is between the Photon and the cards?
> 
> Also, did you have to mod your res bracket? It looks like you had to have but it's hidden behind the GPU cables.


Well, i did have to cut into the mount plate to fit the 3rd gpu, i didnt use any standard mounting holes on the res mount, i made my own, basically to make as much space as possible. I have now moved the res, simply because the gpus are hot, and the versions i have are very hot so im making space for a fan. But 27cm with mounting space to spare is the limit with the photon placed there, but i do think its possible to move a bit more right than i had it.


----------



## taem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pierre3400*
> 
> I am confused about this.
> 
> My 7970's are just over 10.5" / 27cm cm, and had no issues with my Photon res.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With that said, i have moved mine now to a better location.


Can you tell me exactly what rads/fans you're using top and bottom? You have exactly the setup I want to use.


----------



## Torus15

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shremi*
> 
> So I started to measure everything to make sure I place the order for all of my parts and now it seems that my 150 res looks so tiny ..... For you guys with the primo with a cylinder res what would you recommend me to purchase ??? The only thing that is a must is that it needs an inlet on the top
> 
> Thanks for the help
> 
> Shremi


Have you considered the Bitspower tank 250 it's not glass but the bracket has been designed to fit it without modification. I had the Photon 250 D5 pump combo but changed to the Bitspower which I have lit using LED plugs top and bottom. The best bit is you can return the loop to the top of the res, thus including it in the loop for easier bleeding. I did get an XSPC fitting to allow this also but the returning coolant would still fall into the tank above the coolant level and there's no extra port for filling. I seem to think that it is slightly smaller in diameter too so there might be slightly more clearance for your cards.


----------



## theMoP

heya unicr0nhunter,

was looking through your posts (and photos) re. the primo...thank you very much - i see that we initially had quite similar ideas =)

i have a few questions if you don't mind...

first, here's a quick layout of what i had in mind:


1. can the top (360mm) and bottom (480mm) be mounted with their fill ports towards the front of the case?
2. with a 480 in the bottom, would you even bother with the lower of the front intake fans (as it appears it will be completely blocked)?
3. would adding two 120mm intake fans on the optional side bracket be worth it, especially in light of question #2?
4. the rog front panel is only 85mm deep...do you see any problems with the top rad/push fans encroaching on the uppermost 5.25" bay?
5. for a fill port in the top rad, would a 25mm extended with a fitting plug fit with the top panel closed?
6. i saw that you initially had planned for a drain port out the back of the case as i intend...what changed your mind? would you have done it with an extender and mini valve as i'm planning?
7. i'm very interested in your comments on inadequate air intake from the bottom of the case - do you see anything at the following link that you'd recommend to increase air flow down there?
http://www.frozencpu.com/cat/l3/g1/c12/s34/list/p1/Cases-Misc_Case_Parts-CastersFeet-Page1.html?id=ApjTeS6Z&mv_pc=6328

btw, it's 100% ssd, so all cages will be removed, and the pump/res is a dual-bay res - do you foresee any problems in fill/drain?

you already have my thanks for what i've gleaned from your posts/photos...but i would very, very much appreciate these further insights!


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *theMoP*
> 
> heya unicr0nhunter,
> 
> was looking through your posts (and photos) re. the primo...thank you very much - i see that we initially had quite similar ideas =)
> 
> i have a few questions if you don't mind...
> 
> first, here's a quick layout of what i had in mind:
> 
> 
> 1. can the top (360mm) and bottom (480mm) be mounted with their fill ports towards the front of the case?
> 2. with a 480 in the bottom, would you even bother with the lower of the front intake fans (as it appears it will be completely blocked)?
> 3. would adding two 120mm intake fans on the optional side bracket be worth it, especially in light of question #2?
> 4. the rog front panel is only 85mm deep...do you see any problems with the top rad/push fans encroaching on the uppermost 5.25" bay?
> 5. for a fill port in the top rad, would a 25mm extended with a fitting plug fit with the top panel closed?
> 6. i saw that you initially had planned for a drain port out the back of the case as i intend...what changed your mind? would you have done it with an extender and mini valve as i'm planning?
> 7. i'm very interested in your comments on inadequate air intake from the bottom of the case - do you see anything at the following link that you'd recommend to increase air flow down there?
> http://www.frozencpu.com/cat/l3/g1/c12/s34/list/p1/Cases-Misc_Case_Parts-CastersFeet-Page1.html?id=ApjTeS6Z&mv_pc=6328
> 
> btw, it's 100% ssd, so all cages will be removed, and the pump/res is a dual-bay res - do you foresee any problems in fill/drain?
> 
> you already have my thanks for what i've gleaned from your posts/photos...but i would very, very much appreciate these further insights!


I am not Uni but can help with some of your questions

1) yes it can be mounted with fill ports facing front. Have mine 420 xt 45 up top that way (which are longer that 360 mm rads) and will not conflict with the 5.25 drive bays, at least not with fan controllers or with the rog thing.

2)Tricky question. If you place a 120 mm front and 2 on the lateral some collision/turbulence will be generated but I do have that arrangement (2 120 mm front and 2x 120mm side) and I do like the air flow in the HD cages (removed in my case to fit pump). Mind you that the air is coming through 2 240 mm 30 mm rads with GT Ap-15 in push/pull).

3) as per 2 above personally I would say yes.

4) no with a 360 mm rad there. Even a 420 mm might be possible.

5) it is a matter of taste. I leave my 2 top ports on the xt 45 420 with the caps on it. If I need to fill it I just unscrew the end cap and fill it no need to anything else.

6) many of us early adopters of the primo went on the route of having a drain on our bottom rads +/- on the same way using a 90 degrees to make a line to the side of the case.

7) yes, anything that would raise the case a bit would improve bottom air flow.

hope it helps


----------



## Pikaru

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *theMoP*
> 
> heya unicr0nhunter,
> 
> was looking through your posts (and photos) re. the primo...thank you very much - i see that we initially had quite similar ideas =)
> 
> i have a few questions if you don't mind...
> 
> first, here's a quick layout of what i had in mind:
> 
> 
> 1. can the top (360mm) and bottom (480mm) be mounted with their fill ports towards the front of the case?
> 2. with a 480 in the bottom, would you even bother with the lower of the front intake fans (as it appears it will be completely blocked)?
> 3. would adding two 120mm intake fans on the optional side bracket be worth it, especially in light of question #2?
> 4. the rog front panel is only 85mm deep...do you see any problems with the top rad/push fans encroaching on the uppermost 5.25" bay?
> 5. for a fill port in the top rad, would a 25mm extended with a fitting plug fit with the top panel closed?
> 6. i saw that you initially had planned for a drain port out the back of the case as i intend...what changed your mind? would you have done it with an extender and mini valve as i'm planning?
> 7. i'm very interested in your comments on inadequate air intake from the bottom of the case - do you see anything at the following link that you'd recommend to increase air flow down there?
> http://www.frozencpu.com/cat/l3/g1/c12/s34/list/p1/Cases-Misc_Case_Parts-CastersFeet-Page1.html?id=ApjTeS6Z&mv_pc=6328
> 
> btw, it's 100% ssd, so all cages will be removed, and the pump/res is a dual-bay res - do you foresee any problems in fill/drain?
> 
> you already have my thanks for what i've gleaned from your posts/photos...but i would very, very much appreciate these further insights!


I have the same rad up top with SP120s in push/pull and can't use the top 5.25" bay.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pikaru*
> 
> I have the same rad up top with SP120s in push/pull and can't use the top 5.25" bay.


yep, not for dvd drives but for fan controller or rog panel as it seems to be the case He/She is asking...


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shremi*
> 
> Thank you so much for your reply + REP ..... I am not worried at all for modding the case drilling holes or even use some Velcro to make the fit ..... I plan to use the cards on slots 1 and 4 from what i see in your pics ill take it that i can clear the bracket or else dremmel time
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The thing that now got me thinking is that reading a couple of your next posts you are stating that there is almost no room to use the top ports of the reservoir if you go p/p i with the X45 rad which is i am planning to use .... my problem is that i not only need this ports to be available to fill the loop but *i really like to use the top ports for the inlet* so ill take it that no fitting will come close to fit in there ..... I will be reusing an 360 60mm on the bottom also with p/p fans....
> 
> The only options that i think would be to lower a bit the reservoir since i have more space in the bottom but i dont know if it will look aesthetically or just to settle for the 170 photon instead.....
> 
> Thanks a lot i really appreciate your feedback since i am purchasing from over seas i want to make sure i got pretty much everything i need so i don't have to reorder


There's no good way to use the top port on a Photon reservoir as an inlet. There's only one top port, and it's a M20 thread (larger than G1/4) in the center over the top of the glass tube down the middle so down inside the port it looks like this:



To use that top port as an inlet you would first have to use and M20 to G1/4 adapter, which is cool because XSPC sells one, however as you can see there's no way, like with most other tube reservoirs, to add an inlet tube inside the res to bring the incoming liquid down below the fill level in the reservoir (like this or this), and if you can't do that then as soon as you stop the pump all the air escapes out the top tube instead of being trapped in the top of the res.

So if you're using the top port in the Photon as an inlet there's no good way to use the reservoir to trap and bleed air from your loop and with it being the only port up top no way to add fluid when needed, and that's pretty much the whole point for having a reservoir in the first place. The only way the Photon serves its function is to use the lower inlet and outlet ports which is how it was designed to be used. If you really want to use the top as an inlet then you'd be way better served to use a different brand of reservoir instead.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *theMoP*
> 
> heya unicr0nhunter,
> 
> was looking through your posts (and photos) re. the primo...thank you very much - i see that we initially had quite similar ideas =)
> 
> i have a few questions if you don't mind...
> 
> first, here's a quick layout of what i had in mind:
> 
> 
> 1. can the top (360mm) and bottom (480mm) be mounted with their fill ports towards the front of the case?


There should be no prob at all. You can't mount a 480 up top with the ports towards the front, but a 360 would be no problem, and that would give you access to the top-facing ports like some rads have (alphacools) to use as a fill port. I see no problems with mounting a 480 in the bottom with the ports either way.
Quote:


> 2. with a 480 in the bottom, would you even bother with the lower of the front intake fans (as it appears it will be completely blocked)?


It looks like it would be close, but there should be a couple cm's between a 480 with ports towards the front and the front lower fan so airflow shouldn't be 'blocked' from it.
Quote:


> 3. would adding two 120mm intake fans on the optional side bracket be worth it, especially in light of question #2?


It wouldn't hurt airflow, that's for sure, but only you can decide what's 'worth it'.
Quote:


> 4. the rog front panel is only 85mm deep...do you see any problems with the top rad/push fans encroaching on the uppermost 5.25" bay?


Not with a 360 up top I don't. I'm only estimating based on what I have, but by my estimations with a 360 up top with ports to the front you'd have roughly ~90mm more space there (120mm - ~30mm for the ports) than I have with a 480 and ports towards the rear, and with my 480 it leaves me ~30mm of space there. Not quite deep enough for a fan controller, but enough I was able to put a Koolance flow meter display there. So just spitballin here it seems to me that with a 360 with ports to the front mounted as far towards the rear of the case as it will go you should have roughly 120mm of space in the top 5.25" bay.
Quote:


> 5. for a fill port in the top rad, would a 25mm extended with a fitting plug fit with the top panel closed?


Maybe, but it would be close. There's just enough room up top for 25mm thick fans, so 25mm space above the rad to clear the top filter cover where you will have the ports. I'd recommend a smaller extension though. 10mm or 15mm would fit more comfortably once you factor in the extra mm's for the stop plug. A longer extension there serves no purpose.
Quote:


> 6. i saw that you initially had planned for a drain port out the back of the case as i intend...what changed your mind? would you have done it with an extender and mini valve as i'm planning?


What changed my mind was how perfectly it fit the other way, and having the drain port coming from the bottom-facing port on the lower rad offered advantages of completely draining the lower rad, as opposed to from the end port it won't drain as completely, and with the drain valve pointing out towards the right-side panel it was more stealth and didn't require me to cut a hole in the back of the case to extend the drain through. It just looked so much better to me, like the case was designed for it to go there.


Quote:


> 7. i'm very interested in your comments on inadequate air intake from the bottom of the case - do you see anything at the following link that you'd recommend to increase air flow down there?
> http://www.frozencpu.com/cat/l3/g1/c12/s34/list/p1/Cases-Misc_Case_Parts-CastersFeet-Page1.html?id=ApjTeS6Z&mv_pc=6328


I'm not sure whether any of those will work. The bottom of the Primo has 5 rectangular rubber feet, which makes it kind of hard to adapt something that looks good, at least to my eyes. You're probably going to have to get creative on your own there, but the bottom airflow is a pretty serious flaw with the case. As it is there's really only about the equivalent space all around the bottom to that of a single 120mm fan. You will definitely benefit from raising the case up a bit or setting it up on something with a bottom cutout for increased airflow.
Quote:


> btw, it's 100% ssd, so all cages will be removed, and the pump/res is a dual-bay res - do you foresee any problems in fill/drain?
> 
> you already have my thanks for what i've gleaned from your posts/photos...but i would very, very much appreciate these further insights!


Bay res are always a pain to fill and drain, but if you use top-facing ports on your top rad to fill your loop you won't have many of those sorts of problems. It would be a good idea to make sure you can easily access the fill port on the top of the res though. As long as no other port is open you can use the res fill port to add fluid to remove the air it will trap, but don't ever make the mistake of opening it while the top rad's fill port is open with a full loop or all the fluid that's higher than your res is going to try to come gushing out. lol.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pikaru*
> 
> I have the same rad up top with SP120s in push/pull and can't use the top 5.25" bay.


If you have a *360* XT45 rad in push pull up top in the Primo and can't use the top bay then you must have it mounted as far as you can towards the front of the case. My guess is, like me, you have a 480 rad up there, and then yeah, there's only ~30mm or so of space, not enough for a fan controller but I did manage to fit one of these in that top bay:


----------



## shremi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> There's no good way to use the top port on a Photon reservoir as an inlet. There's only one top port, and it's a M20 thread (larger than G1/4) in the center over the top of the glass tube down the middle so down inside the port it looks like this:
> 
> 
> 
> To use that top port as an inlet you would first have to use and M20 to G1/4 adapter, which is cool because XSPC sells one, however as you can see there's no way, like with most other tube reservoirs, to add an inlet tube inside the res to bring the incoming liquid down below the fill level in the reservoir (like this or this), and if you can't do that then as soon as you stop the pump all the air escapes out the top tube instead of being trapped in the top of the res.
> 
> So if you're using the top port in the Photon as an inlet there's no good way to use the reservoir to trap and bleed air from your loop and with it being the only port up top no way to add fluid when needed, and that's pretty much the whole point for having a reservoir in the first place. The only way the Photon serves its function is to use the lower inlet and outlet ports which is how it was designed to be used. If you really want to use the top as an inlet then you'd be way better served to use a different brand of reservoir instead.


Well thanks again for the help the more i dig into the photon the more i am starting to believe it is almost impossible to fit i might aswell go with the Bistpower 250 i am very familiar with it or a frozen Q i really loved the way the photon looks to be honest but its starting to sound like a pain to make it work


----------



## shremi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Torus15*
> 
> Have you considered the Bitspower tank 250 it's not glass but the bracket has been designed to fit it without modification. I had the Photon 250 D5 pump combo but changed to the Bitspower which I have lit using LED plugs top and bottom. The best bit is you can return the loop to the top of the res, thus including it in the loop for easier bleeding. I did get an XSPC fitting to allow this also but the returning coolant would still fall into the tank above the coolant level and there's no extra port for filling. I seem to think that it is slightly smaller in diameter too so there might be slightly more clearance for your cards.


Hey do you have a picture of your setup ????

Thanks


----------



## Pierre3400

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *taem*
> 
> Can you tell me exactly what rads/fans you're using top and bottom? You have exactly the setup I want to use.


Top rad is Alphacool NexXxoS XT45 420 with 6x Phanteks 140mm in push/pull.

Bottom rad is Alphacool NexXxoS 480 Monsta with 8x Gentle Typhoons AP-15s (which you'll have a hard time finding)


----------



## theMoP

thanks a lot, unicr0nhunter...and you too, gabrielzm!

there seems to be so much guesswork in pondering the best setup...that getting good, clear answers from others is a real blessing

i have a couple of follow-up questions, if you don't mind...

1. it's my understanding that the stock front fans on the primo are x2 140mm led...has that changed to 120mm, or did you make that change yourself, gabriel?

2. i found some posts by doyll re. a 30mm caster base build for the primo...looks great and i assume that would deal with the issue of bottom intake adequately - do you know if he sells them?

3. unicr0nhunter, you mentioned bleeding the air out of the bay res...but i'm really hoping to just seat it in the bay and not have to fiddle with it further - my ideas on that are:
a. move the bay res up to the top bay position--it's 116mm depth (iirc, most optical drives are ~160mm)--and put some kind of permanent 90deg rotary or snake fitting on one of the top ports of the res, attached to something like a mini valve for bleed/fill -- do you think there would be clearance for this since the top rad wouldn't be right above the bays like a 480 would be?
b. move the bay res up to the 2nd from the top bay position--giving me an extra ~41mm height--and attach the same sort of fitting(s) as above, but just hiding it behind the empty top bay grill...and swinging it out when needed -- again, do you think this position would be easier than the other, given the extra height added to the unused top rad clearance? (it would mean giving up a possible blu-ray drive, but that's not the end of the world - lol)

here are some shots of the monsoon pump/res's back and side ports:



your drain port does look perfect there...but is that a 280mm rad you're using in the bottom?

finally, i'm not sure which sli bridge to order for connecting the two gpus in the loop...the rve board's spacing has me confounded -- any insights, and would you recommend series or parallel there?



again, thank you so much for all your help!


----------



## Senones

Just finished my 2nd build this weekend past.

Actually my first post too!

Planned upgrades are maybe GTX 980 SLI, Push/Pull for the H100i, and another AF140 as an exhaust fan to remove the stock white exhaust from Phanteks.

Thanks!


----------



## HiTechPixel

Here's my prepped Enthoo Pro, just waiting for the components to arrive.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pierre3400*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *taem*
> 
> Can you tell me exactly what rads/fans you're using top and bottom? You have exactly the setup I want to use.
> 
> 
> 
> Top rad is Alphacool NexXxoS XT45 420 with 6x Phanteks 140mm in push/pull.
> 
> Bottom rad is Alphacool NexXxoS 480 Monsta with 8x Gentle Typhoons AP-15s (*which you'll have a hard time finding*)
Click to expand...

FWIW, CoolerGuys currently has 1850rpm Gentle Typhoons (aka AP-15s) for $19.95 + shipping. If you want to get technical they are AP-53s, but that's because Coolerguys have received a new custom order for the fans from Nidec and the AP-15 was an old Scythe number (and Scythe is out of the picture now which is the reason for the shortage everywhere). See here for a better explanation.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *theMoP*
> 
> thanks a lot, unicr0nhunter...and you too, gabrielzm!
> 
> there seems to be so much guesswork in pondering the best setup...that getting good, clear answers from others is a real blessing
> 
> i have a couple of follow-up questions, if you don't mind...
> 
> 1. it's my understanding that the stock front fans on the primo are x2 140mm led...has that changed to 120mm, or did you make that change yourself, gabriel?


Yes, the Primo comes with 140s up front.
Quote:


> 2. i found some posts by doyll re. a 30mm caster base build for the primo...looks great and i assume that would deal with the issue of bottom intake adequately - do you know if he sells them?


Have to ask him. He's in the UK iirc.
Quote:


> 3. unicr0nhunter, you mentioned bleeding the air out of the bay res...but i'm really hoping to just seat it in the bay and not have to fiddle with it further - my ideas on that are:
> a. move the bay res up to the top bay position--it's 116mm depth (iirc, most optical drives are ~160mm)--and put some kind of permanent 90deg rotary or snake fitting on one of the top ports of the res, attached to something like a mini valve for bleed/fill -- do you think there would be clearance for this since the top rad wouldn't be right above the bays like a 480 would be?
> b. move the bay res up to the 2nd from the top bay position--giving me an extra ~41mm height--and attach the same sort of fitting(s) as above, but just hiding it behind the empty top bay grill...and swinging it out when needed -- again, do you think this position would be easier than the other, given the extra height added to the unused top rad clearance? (it would mean giving up a possible blu-ray drive, but that's not the end of the world - lol)
> 
> here are some shots of the monsoon pump/res's back and side ports:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Images


There's ~55mm above the top 5.25" bay to the top of the chassis (it's mentioned in the FAQ in the 1st post), so I suspect there's room to put the bay res in the top slot and snake a fill port up to the top inside, but you may have trouble actually installing the fitting since you'd have to do it once the bay res is in place. You'd have to come in from behind or down from the top to do it. Seems like it's probably doable to me, and if so then I see no problems having a fill port extension like that.
Quote:


> your drain port does look perfect there...but is that a 280mm rad you're using in the bottom?


That's a 360 Monsta I've got there in the bottom with both HDD cages in place. It's a very tight fit though, so much so the end port stop plugs extend right into the slot on the side of the HDD cage. It makes it a bit tricky installing / removing that lower HDD cage, but once in place it doesn't interfere with sliding a HDD in/out of that slot.
Quote:


> finally, i'm not sure which sli bridge to order for connecting the two gpus in the loop...the rve board's spacing has me confounded -- any insights, and would you recommend series or parallel there?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Image
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> again, thank you so much for all your help!


For SLI spacing you start at the top slot and count PCI spaces downward, making sure to count the spaces whether there is actually a slot there or not on your particular mobo.



See here for another explanation: http://www.specialtechforums.co.uk/showthread.php?3876-SLI-Flow-Bridges-3-4-and-6-slot


----------



## taem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pierre3400*
> 
> Top rad is Alphacool NexXxoS XT45 420 with 6x Phanteks 140mm in push/pull.
> 
> Bottom rad is Alphacool NexXxoS 480 Monsta with 8x Gentle Typhoons AP-15s (which you'll have a hard time finding)


Are you using the stock Primo fans on the 420?

And how big a difference does p/p make for XT45? Vs pull or push. I plan to run fans at low rpm.

I wish I could find p/p testing for the nexxxos rads.


----------



## balaram

Hmm
I'm thinking of reconsidering
Cylindrical res/pump combo or bay res/pump combo?


----------



## Pierre3400

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> FWIW, CoolerGuys currently has 1850rpm Gentle Typhoons (aka AP-15s) for $19.95 + shipping. If you want to get technical they are AP-53s, but that's because Coolerguys have received a new custom order for the fans from Nidec and the AP-15 was an old Scythe number (and Scythe is out of the picture now which is the reason for the shortage everywhere). See here for a better explanation.


Thats decent news, but i dont live in the states, so would like to find them in Europe.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *taem*
> 
> Are you using the stock Primo fans on the 420?
> 
> And how big a difference does p/p make for XT45? Vs pull or push. I plan to run fans at low rpm.
> 
> I wish I could find p/p testing for the nexxxos rads.


They are in a sense, the NON LED versions, like the exhaust fan you get with the case. I cant remember how many came with, i ordered a few extra.

I run all my fans from the Phantek PWM hub, controlled by my Aquareo LT5 which is in turn adjusted according to water temp. Pretty much dead silent all the time.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *taem*
> 
> Are you using the stock Primo fans on the 420?
> 
> And how big a difference does p/p make for XT45? Vs pull or push. I plan to run fans at low rpm.
> 
> I wish I could find p/p testing for the nexxxos rads.


The only really reliable testing done on push-pull that I'm aware of was done by Martin, where he found that push-pull will net you performance gains of 15% to 30% on all rads with the greatest benefits seen on thicker, more restrictive rads and less-so on thinner, less restrictive ones. I would expect to see benefits of P-P on the XT45 of around 20% or thereabouts over just push or pull.


----------



## LegoFarmer

I will be getting the Enthoo Luxe. Could I fit a 60mm thick rad at 420mm at the top but still be able to use all three drive-bays?


----------



## Senones

Does anyone happen to know, with the integrated fan hub on the Enthoo Luxe...

Should I be plugging that fan hub into the CPU_FAN, or OPT_FAN (or possibly even CHA_FAN) on my ASUS Maximus VII Ranger?

Currently I have the pump from the H100i going to CPU_FAN, but every other fan in the case, including the 2 cooling the H100i radiator are plugged into the fan hub, which is in OPT_FAN. The case seems a little loud right now, like the fan RPM is a little high. I also can't see any fan control in the bios except for the pump plugged into CPU_FAN.

Any thoughts?
Thank you


----------



## theMoP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Have to ask him. He's in the UK iirc.


ahh, damn...i'm in china - wish they manufactured more stuff over here








Quote:


> There's ~55mm above the top 5.25" bay to the top of the chassis (it's mentioned in the FAQ in the 1st post), so I suspect there's room to put the bay res in the top slot and snake a fill port up to the top inside, but you may have trouble actually installing the fitting since you'd have to do it once the bay res is in place. You'd have to come in from behind or down from the top to do it. Seems like it's probably doable to me, and if so then I see no problems having a fill port extension like that.


oh yeah, i read that in the faq...just forgot that bit -- well, i'll give it a whirl...sounds doable if the depth of the monsoon bay res/pump (116mm) doesn't get blocked by the edge of the 360 rad + bottom fans
Quote:


> For SLI spacing you start at the top slot and count PCI spaces downward, making sure to count the spaces whether there is actually a slot there or not on your particular mobo.


ok, i think i see what had me confused...xspc is counting the spaces between slots, and ekwb is counting the slots themselves...

so if i've understood correctly, i'll use ekwb's triple parallel terminal with one blank parallel in the middle:
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/18974/ex-blc-1422/EK_Terminal_Block_-_Triple_Parallel_-_Black_Acetal_EK-FC_Terminal_TRIPLE_Parallel.html?tl=c645s2060b133&id=ApjTeS6Z&mv_pc=9714#blank
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/19690/ex-blc-1448/EK_Terminal_Block_-_Blank_Parallel_EK-FC_Terminal_BLANK_Parallel.html?tl=c645s2060b133&id=ApjTeS6Z&mv_pc=9699
Quote:


> That's a 360 Monsta I've got there in the bottom with both HDD cages in place. It's a very tight fit though, so much so the end port stop plugs extend right into the slot on the side of the HDD cage. It makes it a bit tricky installing / removing that lower HDD cage, but once in place it doesn't interfere with sliding a HDD in/out of that slot.
> For SLI spacing you start at the top slot and count PCI spaces downward, making sure to count the spaces whether there is actually a slot there or not on your particular mobo.


that's very slick! i'm planning on having the 7th port on the ut60 in the bottom butted up against the optional psu vent, drilling that out to 3/8" and using the following to create the drain:
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/20119/ex-tub-1822/Bitspower_Mini_Dual_G14_Male_Male_Low_Profile_Fitting_-_Carbon_Black_BP-CBWP-C42.html?tl=c101s744b145&id=ApjTeS6Z&mv_pc=11780 x2
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/21798/ex-tub-2236/Bitspower_G14_Thread_Female_Female_Pass-Through_Fitting_Fillport_-_Deep_Bold_Red_BP-DBRWP-C04.html?tl=c101s460b145&id=ApjTeS6Z&mv_pc=11267
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/22164/ex-tub-2378/Bitspower_G14_Mini_Valve_-_Carbon_Black_BP-MVV-CBBK.html?tl=c101s460b145&id=ApjTeS6Z&mv_pc=11280

i realize that draining will entail me rocking the tower back and forth a bit, but i think it'll be workable

thanks again for all your marvelous insights!


----------



## quick1unc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Senones*
> 
> Does anyone happen to know, with the integrated fan hub on the Enthoo Luxe...
> 
> Should I be plugging that fan hub into the CPU_FAN, or OPT_FAN (or possibly even CHA_FAN) on my ASUS Maximus VII Ranger?
> 
> Currently I have the pump from the H100i going to CPU_FAN, but every other fan in the case, including the 2 cooling the H100i radiator are plugged into the fan hub, which is in OPT_FAN. The case seems a little loud right now, like the fan RPM is a little high. I also can't see any fan control in the bios except for the pump plugged into CPU_FAN.
> 
> Any thoughts?
> Thank you


Often times the OPT FAN isn't PWN so if you're running the hub off that then you won't get the fan control you're looking for. I ran my pump off the hub I believe since I have the sata power cable running to it, I know it will always get consistent power and I ran the hub itself off the CPU FAN header to give all the other fans PWM control.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *quick1unc*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Senones*
> 
> Does anyone happen to know, with the integrated fan hub on the Enthoo Luxe...
> 
> Should I be plugging that fan hub into the CPU_FAN, or OPT_FAN (or possibly even CHA_FAN) on my ASUS Maximus VII Ranger?
> 
> Currently I have the pump from the H100i going to CPU_FAN, but every other fan in the case, including the 2 cooling the H100i radiator are plugged into the fan hub, which is in OPT_FAN. The case seems a little loud right now, like the fan RPM is a little high. I also can't see any fan control in the bios except for the pump plugged into CPU_FAN.
> 
> Any thoughts?
> Thank you
> 
> 
> 
> Often times the OPT FAN isn't PWN so if you're running the hub off that then you won't get the fan control you're looking for. I ran my pump off the hub I believe since I have the sata power cable running to it, I know it will always get consistent power and I ran the hub itself off the CPU FAN header to give all the other fans PWM control.
Click to expand...

Well, looking at ASUS' downloads for the Maximus VII Ranger, there are two different manuals (for two different versions of the mobo?)

One, "Version E8988", shows only the CPU_FAN and CPU_OPT headers as PWM, and the other, "Version E9798", shows all of the fan headers are PWM.

I dunno.


----------



## Senones

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *quick1unc*
> 
> Often times the OPT FAN isn't PWN so if you're running the hub off that then you won't get the fan control you're looking for. I ran my pump off the hub I believe since I have the sata power cable running to it, I know it will always get consistent power and I ran the hub itself off the CPU FAN header to give all the other fans PWM control.


Correct me if I'm wrong here. You're suggesting Corsair Pump going to the fan hub. Fan hub then powered by SATA, but also plugged into CPU_FAN?

It's so crazy it might just work!


----------



## quick1unc

Well the hub is designed to be powered by the SATA plug to make sure that the load of all the fans on the hub doesn't exceed the recommended power draw of the FAN plug on the mobo. The fan header is rated at 1A or 12W so Phanteks make the hub SATA powered to augment the power provided by the header.

Now for you since you have the H100i you could choose to hook it up exactly how Corsair says to since you can use the built in hub on the cpu block to power the fans that came with the unit. I am running the h100i in my second comp the same way. I have push/pull config and I just used the splitters to run a pair of fans off each cpu block fan port and then you can use the corsair software to handle your PWM control. Then plug your Phtanks hub in either your OPT FAN or one of the other headers since they all appear to be PWM.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *theMoP*
> 
> thanks a lot, unicr0nhunter...and you too, gabrielzm!
> 
> there seems to be so much guesswork in pondering the best setup...that getting good, clear answers from others is a real blessing
> 
> i have a couple of follow-up questions, if you don't mind...
> 
> 1. it's my understanding that the stock front fans on the primo are x2 140mm led...has that changed to 120mm, or did you make that change yourself, gabriel?
> 
> 2. i found some posts by doyll re. a 30mm caster base build for the primo...looks great and i assume that would deal with the issue of bottom intake adequately - do you know if he sells them?
> 
> 3. unicr0nhunter, you mentioned bleeding the air out of the bay res...but i'm really hoping to just seat it in the bay and not have to fiddle with it further - my ideas on that are:
> a. move the bay res up to the top bay position--it's 116mm depth (iirc, most optical drives are ~160mm)--and put some kind of permanent 90deg rotary or snake fitting on one of the top ports of the res, attached to something like a mini valve for bleed/fill -- do you think there would be clearance for this since the top rad wouldn't be right above the bays like a 480 would be?
> b. move the bay res up to the 2nd from the top bay position--giving me an extra ~41mm height--and attach the same sort of fitting(s) as above, but just hiding it behind the empty top bay grill...and swinging it out when needed -- again, do you think this position would be easier than the other, given the extra height added to the unused top rad clearance? (it would mean giving up a possible blu-ray drive, but that's not the end of the world - lol)
> 
> here are some shots of the monsoon pump/res's back and side ports:
> 
> 
> 
> your drain port does look perfect there...but is that a 280mm rad you're using in the bottom?
> 
> finally, i'm not sure which sli bridge to order for connecting the two gpus in the loop...the rve board's spacing has me confounded -- any insights, and would you recommend series or parallel there?
> 
> 
> 
> again, thank you so much for all your help![





/quote]

Yep, stock 140 mm in front. Changed to 120 mm Ap -15 because I am using two 240mm rads in front/side. As to the ek bridge I have that same MB in the Primo and two cards. The correct one for two cards on RIVE is this:

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/19436/ex-blc-1434/EK_Terminal_Block_-_Triple_Serial_-_Black_Acetal_EK-FC_Terminal_TRIPLE_Serial.html?id=UoTavxjW&mv_pc=299

I think I have pictures of the drain in my build log too. I use a 280 mm bottom (ut 60) and the bottom ports facing down are perfect for the drain and the alignment is great too with the drain coming to the side just short of the side panel with Phanteks logo.


----------



## Pierre3400

An update on my situation.


----------



## taem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Senones*
> 
> Does anyone happen to know, with the integrated fan hub on the Enthoo Luxe...
> 
> Should I be plugging that fan hub into the CPU_FAN, or OPT_FAN (or possibly even CHA_FAN) on my ASUS Maximus VII Ranger?
> 
> Currently I have the pump from the H100i going to CPU_FAN, but every other fan in the case, including the 2 cooling the H100i radiator are plugged into the fan hub, which is in OPT_FAN. The case seems a little loud right now, like the fan RPM is a little high. I also can't see any fan control in the bios except for the pump plugged into CPU_FAN.
> 
> Any thoughts?
> Thank you


On every Asus mobo I've ever had the CPU_OPT fan header is not independently controllable, it just follows whatever settings you have for the CPU_FAN.

Also every Asus mobo I've ever had, none of the chassis headers were pwm, they were 4 pin voltage controlled. So check the pin layout in the manual.


----------



## HiTechPixel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *taem*
> 
> On every Asus mobo I've ever had the CPU_OPT fan header is not independently controllable, it just follows whatever settings you have for the CPU_FAN.
> 
> Also every Asus mobo I've ever had, none of the chassis headers were pwm, they were 4 pin voltage controlled. So check the pin layout in the manual.


Asus Z97/X99 has PWM headers on all fan headers. You can switch between DC and PWM.


----------



## taem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HiTechPixel*
> 
> Asus Z97/X99 has PWM headers on all fan headers. You can switch between DC and PWM.


Yeah someone mentioned that a while back might have been you. That's a stellar feature. Z87 is the latest I go with Asus boards.

In any event has the CPU_OPT been changed to be independently controllable? I'm guessing not.


----------



## HiTechPixel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *taem*
> 
> Yeah someone mentioned that a while back might have been you. That's a stellar feature. Z87 is the latest I go with Asus boards.
> 
> In any event has the CPU_OPT been changed to be independently controllable? I'm guessing not.


I think it is tied to primary CPU_FAN.


----------



## shremi

Guys in effort to keep my desire to use the Photon 270 I tried to think over and over and i got a pretty good loop order in order to keep the build ascetically to my liking ..... Here is the mockup



I have a question for those who have the XT45 on top ..... Is there a way to make the line to the UT 60 without loosing the bays i am loosing the HDD drive bays which i can manage to install my ssd in the back but my data drive needs to be in the 5.25 drive bay ...

Thanks for the feedback

Shremi


----------



## Torus15

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shremi*
> 
> Hey do you have a picture of your setup ????
> 
> Thanks


Only a dark one

I need a better camera and lighting
The res mounts straight on to the upper and lower mounts on the bracket.
The BItspower 150 mounts on the inner two mounting positions.
I did consider the EK res 250 but did not like the multi port top, too bulky looking.
Oh another plus is the res height is perfect for the return if you are using an EK memory block.


----------



## Qubit

Hi everybody!
I am new to overclock.net, building my first gaming rig and decided to go with Enthoo Luxe.

I received my Luxe today and I am somewhat disappointed at the quality. The side panel with the window has a ~2 mm gap on top so I am able to move the panel up and down. Do any of you guys have this? It is mostly a looks thing but it could also be leaking some noise. If I touch the bottom right corner of that panel it also moves a few mm and makes sound of metals touching. So basically the side panel with the window seems to be a bit smaller than it should and doesn't fit very well.

These six round black things(don't know what to call them) that are located on the floor where the power supply will be placed - only three was there. One was attached to the power supply cover. One was stuck outside of the case and one was stuck in the plastic that the case was in. That didn't bother me too much but it felt like they placed three of them and then just threw the rest in the box. Also one of the small screws outside of the case hasn't been screwed in straight so it isn't all the way in.

Otherwise I am liking the case. It is a bit bigger than I thought but looks very good. My other parts haven't arrived yet so can't test the case properly.

I am thinking of returning the Luxe just because of the side panel, but I didn't order it from my country and I am pretty sure the return won't go very smoothly. I would like to know if any of you have a gap on top of that panel? If not do you think it is a good reason to send it back?


----------



## pokyfudywise

hey guys I was thinking if the 420 rad fits in the top with no problems? no clearance issues with cables, etc?


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pokyfudywise*
> 
> hey guys I was thinking if the 420 rad fits in the top with no problems? no clearance issues with cables, etc?


None whatsoever with the Alphacool rads. I would check however the width of the HWlabs rads since they usually are a bit wider than the rest but even so I would not anticipate any problems. A 420 is perfect for the top with no need to drill to have a fill port.


----------



## Roxycon

@the comment on a Alphacool 480 up top on the primo.. I have it with the ports facing the front. You can fit it there but only problem is that youll either only gonna have three fans up top or be creative and fit three 140 fans first then secure the rad with smaller screws through the fans to better cover the rad with airflow, works ok but ill admit that a 420 is a better option for the top in a config like that


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *pokyfudywise*
> 
> hey guys I was thinking if the 420 rad fits in the top with no problems? no clearance issues with cables, etc?
> 
> 
> 
> None whatsoever with the Alphacool rads. I would check however the width of the HWlabs rads since they usually are a bit wider than the rest but even so I would not anticipate any problems. A 420 is perfect for the top with no need to drill to have a fill port.
Click to expand...

Are we assuming pokyfudywise is talking about the Primo? Or the Luxe? Or the Pro? Or ...


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Are we assuming pokyfudywise is talking about the Primo? Or the Luxe? Or the Pro? Or ...


good point. keep forgetting this thread was expanded to the whole line of Phanteks cases. Yes, I was assuming he/she was talking about the primo.


----------



## pokyfudywise

sorry guys I was thinking of course about PRO version of this case. I intend to have just one rad in the top, so I want as big as possible without any modding. It will cool 5820K~4,[email protected] and 980 (OC as much as possible), I would like to watercool also a motherboard but still haven't made my decision, was looking forward to MSI X99S Sli Plus since it's great looking, but I doubt that EKWB or whoever will release a VRM block for it.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pokyfudywise*
> 
> sorry guys I was thinking of course about PRO version of this case. I intend to have just one rad in the top, so I want as big as possible without any modding. It will cool 5820K~4,[email protected] and 980 (OC as much as possible), I would like to watercool also a motherboard but still haven't made my decision, was looking forward to MSI X99S Sli Plus since it's great looking, but I doubt that EKWB or whoever will release a VRM block for it.


ok then, forget my comment above. You can check here mnpctech review around 28 minutes:

http://www.overclock.net/t/1418637/official-case-phanteks-club-enthoo-primo-enthoo-luxe-enthoo-pro-lovers-owners/4540#post_22561958

if I am not mistaken he is using a 420 mm Hwlabs slim rad there.

Edit- Nah, that was the 360 mm slim. The 420 mm HWlabs is at 30:50.


----------



## emsj86

Ek d5 x res 140ml or xspc d5 photon which one should I get for enthoo pro. Also can someone recommend a fx8350 cpu water block seems amd doesn't have much of a waterblock selection.


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

I'm done. At least for now.


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> I'm done. At least for now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Is this the luxe or the pro. I ask because how did You mount the fan up by optical bays. Modded or does it support it. I have the pro


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*


Its the Pro. I am using a 140mm fan up top, so it is a little bit larger than 120mms, and it just fits perfectly there sitting on the 5.25 bay ledge.


----------



## Pierre3400

Are there any news from Phantek on whether or not they will bring us White LED strips for the front and top and clear plexi?

I know this was talked about a few 100 pages back, and Brian from phanteks said it might happen..


----------



## Phantatsy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pierre3400*
> 
> Are there any news from Phantek on whether or not they will bring us White LED strips for the front and top and clear plexi?
> 
> I know this was talked about a few 100 pages back, and Brian from phanteks said it might happen..


I'd buy a few green or white LED strips for the Primo if they came out.


----------



## rpjkw11

I'm 100% with you, except white or blue. Yeah, strips would look awesome on my Primos.


----------



## taem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> Its the Pro. I am using a 140mm fan up top, so it is a little bit larger than 120mms, and it just fits perfectly there sitting on the 5.25 bay ledge.


So not screwed in? Just wedged?

And is that norprene under the anti kink?


----------



## theMoP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> There's ~55mm above the top 5.25" bay to the top of the chassis (it's mentioned in the FAQ in the 1st post), so I suspect there's room to put the bay res in the top slot and snake a fill port up to the top inside, but you may have trouble actually installing the fitting since you'd have to do it once the bay res is in place. You'd have to come in from behind or down from the top to do it. Seems like it's probably doable to me, and if so then I see no problems having a fill port extension like that.
> 
> 
> 
> heya unicr0nhunter!
> 
> i was just wondering if you thought this might serve as the simplest fix for bleeding the air out of the bay res from one of its top ports:
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/21876/ex-tub-2268/Bitspower_G14_Thread_Pressure_Equalizer_Stop_Plug_w_O-Ring_-_Deep_Bold_Red_BP-DBRETAIR.html?tl=c101s1382b145&id=au9i2sW5&mv_pc=2488#blank
> 
> anyone else have any experience using one of these "bleed-button" fittings?
> 
> thanks in advance!
Click to expand...


----------



## emsj86

Do anyone going to it have a build with the new mini phanteks case. Idk why but I want to next time around go matx case one I only run one gpu and plan to plus idkbjust would like to


----------



## jeffblute

I would love to say yes, but i don't even know where they are for sale yet. I am upgrading my rig and decided to just grab a Mini r2 from fractal design. I might swap to the Evolv if they ever are for sale


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *theMoP*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> There's ~55mm above the top 5.25" bay to the top of the chassis (it's mentioned in the FAQ in the 1st post), so I suspect there's room to put the bay res in the top slot and snake a fill port up to the top inside, but you may have trouble actually installing the fitting since you'd have to do it once the bay res is in place. You'd have to come in from behind or down from the top to do it. Seems like it's probably doable to me, and if so then I see no problems having a fill port extension like that.
> 
> 
> 
> heya unicr0nhunter!
> 
> i was just wondering if you thought this might serve as the simplest fix for bleeding the air out of the bay res from one of its top ports:
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/21876/ex-tub-2268/Bitspower_G14_Thread_Pressure_Equalizer_Stop_Plug_w_O-Ring_-_Deep_Bold_Red_BP-DBRETAIR.html?tl=c101s1382b145&id=au9i2sW5&mv_pc=2488#blank
> 
> anyone else have any experience using one of these "bleed-button" fittings?
> 
> thanks in advance!
Click to expand...

I'm not sure of the practicability / usefulness of using a pressure equalization fitting. I've never used one, but it seems it would be more for helping make sure pressure differences inside a loop don't damage anything than it would be for actual bleeding. 'Bleeding' typically involves removing a stop plug and replacing trapped air with more liquid.


----------



## theMoP

ahh, hmm...

the description combined with this image gave me the wrong impression then...



hmm, my other two ideas are:

build a solid l-shaped extension with two 90deg rotary, two 50mm extenders, and a mini valve on the end...to poke up towards the gap between the top rad's end tanks and the case front - but i worry that it'd weigh too much and put stress on the acetal of the bay res

or use a snake fitting to compression, to tubing, to compression, to mini valve...that maybe i could make long enough to reach up to the same position described above...and short enough to coil up and place in the case above the bay res when it's not needed - but it's iffy and not very elegant, imho


----------



## jameschisholm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> I'm done. At least for now.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Is that UV reactive coil, or simply white? How does it look at night and how well does it fit around an AIO's tubing, is it snug? im thinking of the corsair h105


----------



## theMoP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jameschisholm*
> 
> Is that UV reactive coil, or simply white? How does it look at night and how well does it fit around an AIO's tubing, is it snug? im thinking of the corsair h105


this site says the corsair h105 has 3/8" od tubing
http://www.hardwarecanucks.com/forum/hardware-canucks-reviews/65552-corsair-hydro-h75-h105-cpu-coolers-review-3.html

you can find a bunch of different 3/8" anti-kink coils here:
http://www.frozencpu.com/cat/l3/g/c289/s489/list/p1/b46/PrimoChill-Tubing_Accessories-Anti-kink_Coils_-_38_OD-Page1.html?id=au9i2sW5&mv_pc=5111

hope this helps! =)


----------



## pmilb

Would I be able to put an HDD in one of the back drop and lock slots on the luxe?


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jameschisholm*
> 
> Is that UV reactive coil, or simply white? How does it look at night and how well does it fit around an AIO's tubing, is it snug? im thinking of the corsair h105


It is Primochill Anti Kink Coil, 1/2 OD in White. I am using it on AIOs as you can see. Both the Cooler Master Seidon 240M, which is goes on very easily because of its smaller tubing, it still looks great though. I also use it on a NZXT X31 which is thicker, so the kink coil takes more effort to get on. If I remember correctly, the X31's tubing is 3/8 OD which is more the standard for AIOs. You definitely want to go with one size up of kink coil than whatever it is that your tubing is. I think 1/2 OD will fit around the H105, but double check the specs. It looks great at all times, night time, day time, play time.


----------



## StrongForce

Hai guys, I'm thinking of jumping on the watercooling bandwagon soon lol, so I was looking arround for cases and the Enthoo Pro seems reaaallly tempting, wonder if a corsair h100 + a h55 for gpu would fit in that case without problems ?


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *StrongForce*
> 
> Hai guys, I'm thinking of jumping on the watercooling bandwagon soon lol, so I was looking arround for cases and the Enthoo Pro seems reaaallly tempting, wonder if a corsair h100 + a h55 for gpu would fit in that case without problems ?


Yup, H100 on the top, H55 in the rear.


----------



## StrongForce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> Yup, H100 on the top, H55 in the rear.


Cool then it's instead of the fans right ?

I might be tempted to try some custom paint job by the way altought pretty damn risky if I mess up


----------



## balaram

Guys will I be able to mount my two hdd and one ssd at the back of the enthoo luxe?


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *balaram*
> 
> Guys will I be able to mount my two hdd and one ssd at the back of the enthoo luxe?


I would like to know a good way. Thinking Velcro two sided would work bc I'd like to move my hdd to the back and remove both cages. I have one removed but would like both gone. I hope phanteks comes out with a full window side panel. Would like it if they did bc than I can mount my res up front behind the rad and you could see it


----------



## pmilb

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *balaram*
> 
> Guys will I be able to mount my two hdd and one ssd at the back of the enthoo luxe?


What side hdd? if they are 2.5" then this will work http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817987002&cm_re=phanteks_drive-_-17-987-002-_-Product


----------



## taem

My first water cooled build has begun!! This is the only part I'm 100% sure I want...


http://www.frozencpu.com/products/20988/ele-1196/Swiftech_8-Way_PWM_Cable_Splitter_-_SATA_Power_8W-PWM-SPL-ST.html

Other than this I mean


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pmilb*
> 
> What side hdd? if they are 2.5" then this will work http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817987002&cm_re=phanteks_drive-_-17-987-002-_-Product


Is there a 3.5 style one?


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *pmilb*
> 
> What side hdd? if they are 2.5" then this will work http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817987002&cm_re=phanteks_drive-_-17-987-002-_-Product
> 
> 
> 
> Is there a 3.5 style one?
Click to expand...

Nope, at least not yet. The Phanteks Mini XL case will have one whenever it comes out ...






... but in any case it won't fit in the same mounting place as the SSD brackets would in the Primo/Pro/Luxe.

You could always stick a HDD pretty much wherever you can find a place for it to fit using some 'tape-of-the-gods' double-sided tape or Industrial Strength Velcro.


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Is it safe to have the HDD upright instead of laying flat? I am potentially interested in doing the same thing.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinkoTheCommi*
> 
> Is it safe to have the HDD upright instead of laying flat? I am potentially interested in doing the same thing.


Yes, HDD can be in any position. At least that is what was being said years ago and there is no reason for it to have changed. Different systems mount HDD is many different orientations.


----------



## emsj86

can anyone help me i have a gtx 780 (10.5inches) and i have the enthoo pro. i want to get either photton d5 170 or ek 140 d5 pump res combo. Anyone haave pictures of there reserviors in the ennthoo pro?


----------



## huepfdohle

Hey guys! Thinking about getting the awesome Enthoo Pro, but I have one quick question: is it possible to re-attach the 5,25" drive bay cover, e.g if I want to switch from an internal drive to an external one later on? Or do you have to "break" it out?


----------



## Phantatsy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *huepfdohle*
> 
> Hey guys! Thinking about getting the awesome Enthoo Pro, but I have one quick question: is it possible to re-attach the 5,25" drive bay cover, e.g if I want to switch from an internal drive to an external one later on? Or do you have to "break" it out?


Yes it re-attaches. Pretty sure most, if not all front bay face plates do this now-a-days.


----------



## Perfect_Chaos

How does the fan hub work on the Luxe? I plugged the 12v Sata power connector into the PSU and when i press the case power button the fans won't start.


----------



## cyper.bg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Perfect_Chaos*
> 
> How does the fan hub work on the Luxe? I plugged the 12v Sata power connector into the PSU and when i press the case power button the fans won't start.


You need to plug the extension 4 pin cable from the 4 pin header on the hub to a PWM header on your motherboard + 1 fan to the white header on the hub.


----------



## Perfect_Chaos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyper.bg*
> 
> You need to plug the extension 4 pin cable from the 4 pin header on the hub to a PWM header on your motherboard + 1 fan to the white header on the hub.


Ah ok, i don't have a modern motherboard so mine only has 1 PWM header.. i need to wait for my new cooler to come so i'm stuck with the stock cooler for now and that needs to go in the PWM header. guess i'll have to wait.

I thought the point of the 12v Sata connector was for the fans to run full speed instead of plugging into the motherboard.


----------



## quick1unc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Perfect_Chaos*
> 
> Ah ok, i don't have a modern motherboard so mine only has 1 PWM header.. i need to wait for my new cooler to come so i'm stuck with the stock cooler for now and that needs to go in the PWM header. guess i'll have to wait.
> 
> I thought the point of the 12v Sata connector was for the fans to run full speed instead of plugging into the motherboard.


The point of the 12v Sata connector is to provide supplemental power to the fan hub so you're not pulling more than the fan header can support with multiple fans attached.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *quick1unc*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Perfect_Chaos*
> 
> Ah ok, i don't have a modern motherboard so mine only has 1 PWM header.. i need to wait for my new cooler to come so i'm stuck with the stock cooler for now and that needs to go in the PWM header. guess i'll have to wait.
> 
> I thought the point of the 12v Sata connector was for the fans to run full speed instead of plugging into the motherboard.
> 
> 
> 
> The point of the 12v Sata connector is to provide supplemental power to the fan hub so you're not pulling more than the fan header can support with multiple fans attached.
Click to expand...

Perfect Chaos,
You might be able to plug your CPU cooler fan into the fan hub and plug the fan hub into CPU fan header. This should control your PWM cooler fan with voltage control instead of PWM control .. which almost all PWM fans can handle without a problem.


----------



## theam123

As a new owner of a Phantek Enthoo Pro, I'm looking for some advice. Which red LED strips would be good? Matching a armor motherboard, backplate GPU and h105. I'm trying to make moody light inside of my case, but I'm not entirely sure which LED strips I should go for. I'll post pic once I get my phone charged up!


----------



## Seid Dark

I'm assembling my first custom loop on Phanteks Enthoo Primo. Now I just have to choose the rads. 420 Alphacool XT45 with push/pull Phanteks fans or 420 + 280 push only?

Components that will be under water are i7 2700K and 780 Ti Classy, both will be overclocked to the max. Any opinions are welcome.


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *theam123*
> 
> As a new owner of a Phantek Enthoo Pro, I'm looking for some advice. Which red LED strips would be good? Matching a armor motherboard, backplate GPU and h105. I'm trying to make moody light inside of my case, but I'm not entirely sure which LED strips I should go for. I'll post pic once I get my phone charged up!


NZXT Hue is great. It fits perfectly around the outer edge of the Enthoo Pro and gives you a wide variety of colors, and patterns to choose from. My only complaint is that the White is not very white, it is more bluish than anything else.


----------



## shremi

A bit of a longshot here but is anyone using acrylic tubing in the primo I kinda need some ideas for the tubing layout ..

Thanks

shremi


----------



## Phantatsy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shremi*
> 
> A bit of a longshot here but is anyone using acrylic tubing in the primo I kinda need some ideas for the tubing layout ..
> 
> Thanks
> 
> shremi


I will be in my Primo build, but I wont be getting to that point for awhile.

I would, however like to share part of my Primo mod as a little teaser!


----------



## WeirdHarold

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phantatsy*
> 
> I will be in my Primo build, but I wont be getting to that point for awhile.
> 
> I would, however like to share part of my Primo mod as a little teaser!


Now there's something I never would have thought of changing the color on, I've been looking at the primo for a few weeks now as my possible next case and I honestly figured I'd just leave the little rubber plugs in LoL!

Awesome Job, very small detail but if you put that much effort into the rest of the rig I'm looking forward to the end result + Rep


----------



## Phantatsy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WeirdHarold*
> 
> Now there's something I never would have thought of changing the color on, I've been looking at the primo for a few weeks now as my possible next case and I honestly figured I'd just leave the little rubber plugs in LoL!
> 
> Awesome Job, very small detail but if you put that much effort into the rest of the rig I'm looking forward to the end result + Rep


I've got parts getting ready for paint. Still deciding if I want to paint the inside of the case, too. Will be starting a work log sometime. I just don't feel like it would be progressing fast enough for people's expectations as I'm broke as a joke and only able to slowly acquire parts. Gives me plenty of time to plan out stuff!









I started a teaser thread to see if I could get some input, no bites so far. I plan on redoing the heat shrink on the plug side (the modified side) as it doesn't look right to me. I really wanted to add some rear I/O lighting like the NZXT cases, but I can't seem to find a good location where LEDs wouldn't be visible.

Either way, appreciate the nice words!


----------



## WeirdHarold

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phantatsy*
> 
> I've got parts getting ready for paint. Still deciding if I want to paint the inside of the case, too. Will be starting a work log sometime. I just don't feel like it would be progressing fast enough for people's expectations as I'm broke as a joke and only able to slowly acquire parts. Gives me plenty of time to plan out stuff!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I started a teaser thread to see if I could get some input, no bites so far. I plan on redoing the heat shrink on the plug side (the modified side) as it doesn't look right to me. I really wanted to add some rear I/O lighting like the NZXT cases, but I can't seem to find a good location where LEDs wouldn't be visible.
> 
> Either way, appreciate the nice words!


Well, I'll be keeping an eye open for a link to the build log when you get it started









I really like the looks of the Primo and the specs are amazing, but it's been out a while now and with my luck I'll buy it and Phantek's will release a new case that blows the primo out of the water and I'll kick myself for not waiting.


----------



## shremi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phantatsy*
> 
> I will be in my Primo build, but I wont be getting to that point for awhile.
> 
> I would, however like to share part of my Primo mod as a little teaser!


----------



## Abula

A friend ask me to help with a build, and chose the phanteks primo pro, really nice chasis for the money, well thought out, excelent cable management, good size, and even though its plastic looks very nice.

Components
Motherboard: MSI H97 Gaming 3
CPU: Intel core i5 4590
CPU Cooler: Thermalrigtht HR02 Macho
Memory: Crucial Ballistic Sport 8gb ddr3 1600 ultra low profile
GPU: MSI GTX750Ti
SSD: Crucial MX100 512GB
HDD: Samsung 1.5TB 5400rpms 3.5 hdd
Case: Phanteks Primo Pro
PSU: EVGA SuperNova G2 750W

I leave you some pics, nothing fancy but turn out nice,


----------



## KittenontheKeys

I took my Phanteks Enthoo Pro and did a little bit of modding!












Still a work in progress, I am still waiting for a 970 block, Monsoon premium D5 bayres. and i will be replacing the fittings to Bitpower.









Specs:
Phanteks Enthoo Pro
Asus Sabertooth Z77
i7-3770K @ 5000MHz
16GB G.Skill Sniper @ 1866
MSI Geforce GTX 970 Gaming @ 1250/7000Mhz
Intel 120GB 520 SSD
Crucial 256GB MX100 SSD
FSP Aurum 600W

EK-Supremacy - Acetal
EK-DBAY RES SPIN - Plexi (Polished)
EK-XTOP D5 - Plexi (Polished)
EK-D5 Vario
EK-CoolStream PE 240
XSPC RX120
10/16mm Swiftech Lok-Seal fittings
10/16mm PrimoFlex LRT (Crystal Clear)
Mayhem Aurora - Galaxy Purple
120mm Corsair SP120 Purple LED fans


----------



## Seid Dark

^^ That's.... unique. I've never seen a furry Phanteks before


----------



## Dorito Bandit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Abula*
> 
> A friend ask me to help with a build, and chose the phanteks primo pro, really nice chasis for the money, well thought out, excelent cable management, good size, and even though its plastic looks very nice.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Components
> Motherboard: MSI H97 Gaming 3
> CPU: Intel core i5 4590
> CPU Cooler: Thermalrigtht HR02 Macho
> Memory: Crucial Ballistic Sport 8gb ddr3 1600 ultra low profile
> GPU: MSI GTX750Ti
> SSD: Crucial MX100 512GB
> HDD: Samsung 1.5TB 5400rpms 3.5 hdd
> Case: Phanteks Primo Pro
> PSU: EVGA SuperNova G2 750W
> 
> I leave you some pics, nothing fancy but turn out nice,


Very nice job!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KittenontheKeys*
> 
> I took my Phanteks Enthoo Pro and did a little bit of modding!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Still a work in progress, I am still waiting for a 970 block, Monsoon premium D5 bayres. and i will be replacing the fittings to Bitpower.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Specs:
> Phanteks Enthoo Pro
> Asus Sabertooth Z77
> i7-3770K @ 5000MHz
> 16GB G.Skill Sniper @ 1866
> MSI Geforce GTX 970 Gaming @ 1250/7000Mhz
> Intel 120GB 520 SSD
> Crucial 256GB MX100 SSD
> FSP Aurum 600W
> 
> EK-Supremacy - Acetal
> EK-DBAY RES SPIN - Plexi (Polished)
> EK-XTOP D5 - Plexi (Polished)
> EK-D5 Vario
> EK-CoolStream PE 240
> XSPC RX120
> 10/16mm Swiftech Lok-Seal fittings
> 10/16mm PrimoFlex LRT (Crystal Clear)
> Mayhem Aurora - Galaxy Purple
> 120mm Corsair SP120 Purple LED fans


I'm almost speechless! Will it bite?


----------



## theoblivinator

Some newbie questions here, could use some advice.

I have an Enthoo Primo case that is mostly furnished with all my parts. I'm still waiting on my two Geforce GTX 980's, but that is the last of the hardware I'm waiting on before I start to install my watercooling loop. Basically I want to run this by other Primo owners and make sure everything thing will fit.

I'm planning on putting an Alphacool NexXxoS UT60 Full Copper Quad 120mm Radiator in the bottom fans set up in push-pull configuration. Then I want to put an Alphacool NexXxoS UT60 Full Copper Triple 120mm Radiator in the top, with fans in either push or pull config, haven't decided yet. 99% sure these will fit based on everything I have read. Any other suggestions for rads let me know, I'm all ears at this point.

Since a Geforce GTX 980 is 10.5 inches in length, having two of them will mean I'll have to remove the reservoir bracket that sits to the right of the motherboard in order to fit both of 980's in the case correct? Unless I want to modify the bracket slightly to allow more room for both GPUs. So what type of reservoir are others using and recommending with this case? I want to use an inline reservoir, it doesn't have to be huge. Anything with a blue aesthetic to it would be dope.

I'm in the market for a great fan controller for all those fans I'm going to have on my rads. Any suggestions?

That's it for now. If anyone would be kind enough to help me get through the learning curve on watercooling that would be awesome. Thanks!


----------



## Phantatsy

You could always use an XSPC bay res.


----------



## theoblivinator

Yes I could. That was my original idea but I like the idea of showing off my res when you look in the side panel, instead of opening the door that covers the bays to look at it. I'll have to keep looking around at my options though.


----------



## daps

i just purchased an Phanteks Enthoo Pro and was wondering if the dual ssd bracket available for the Enthoo Primo would work on the Enthoo Pro or if the spacing behind the motherboard tray is different and would not allow the Pro to fit the tray?


----------



## Phantatsy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *theoblivinator*
> 
> Yes I could. That was my original idea but I like the idea of showing off my res when you look in the side panel, instead of opening the door that covers the bays to look at it. I'll have to keep looking around at my options though.


Could also mount the res in the rear mounting location.


----------



## taem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phantatsy*
> 
> Could also mount the res in the rear mounting location.


Does that conflict with gpu block ports though? I'm guessing not since Frozen CPU sells a Primo water cooled system with the Photon 170 mounted on the rear. But I'd like to be sure before I order the parts. I would guess flow bridges won't fit if the res were mounted on the rear so you'd have to tube or use a vid connector.


----------



## Phantatsy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *taem*
> 
> Does that conflict with gpu block ports though? I'm guessing not since Frozen CPU sells a Primo water cooled system with the Photon 170 mounted on the rear. But I'd like to be sure before I order the parts. I would guess flow bridges won't fit if the res were mounted on the rear so you'd have to tube or use a vid connector.


Should fit just fine.


----------



## Seid Dark

I bought EK-D5 X-RES 140 pump/reservoir combo and I plan to install it to the rear location, should fit fine. Single 780 Ti Classy is too long for the res bracket.


----------



## Pierre3400

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phantatsy*
> 
> Should fit just fine.
> http://skratchwizpc.net/wp-content/uploads/2013/08/Water-Cooled-Build-1.png


I am confused by this.

A big rad to cool CPU and the ever so unnecessary watercooled ram, and then a small 240 rad to cool 4gpus? Seems like a huge mismatch.


----------



## Phantatsy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pierre3400*
> 
> I am confused by this.
> 
> A big rad to cool CPU and the ever so unnecessary watercooled ram, and then a small 240 rad to cool 4gpus? Seems like a huge mismatch.


Not my rig so I couldn't explain the reasoning behind it.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dorito Bandit*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Abula*
> 
> A friend ask me to help with a build, and chose the phanteks primo pro, really nice chasis for the money, well thought out, excelent cable management, good size, and even though its plastic looks very nice.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Components
> Motherboard: MSI H97 Gaming 3
> CPU: Intel core i5 4590
> CPU Cooler: Thermalrigtht HR02 Macho
> Memory: Crucial Ballistic Sport 8gb ddr3 1600 ultra low profile
> GPU: MSI GTX750Ti
> SSD: Crucial MX100 512GB
> HDD: Samsung 1.5TB 5400rpms 3.5 hdd
> Case: Phanteks Primo Pro
> PSU: EVGA SuperNova G2 750W
> 
> I leave you some pics, nothing fancy but turn out nice,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Very nice job!
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *KittenontheKeys*
> 
> I took my Phanteks Enthoo Pro and did a little bit of modding!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Still a work in progress, I am still waiting for a 970 block, Monsoon premium D5 bayres. and i will be replacing the fittings to Bitpower.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Specs:
> Phanteks Enthoo Pro
> Asus Sabertooth Z77
> i7-3770K @ 5000MHz
> 16GB G.Skill Sniper @ 1866
> MSI Geforce GTX 970 Gaming @ 1250/7000Mhz
> Intel 120GB 520 SSD
> Crucial 256GB MX100 SSD
> FSP Aurum 600W
> 
> EK-Supremacy - Acetal
> EK-DBAY RES SPIN - Plexi (Polished)
> EK-XTOP D5 - Plexi (Polished)
> EK-D5 Vario
> EK-CoolStream PE 240
> XSPC RX120
> 10/16mm Swiftech Lok-Seal fittings
> 10/16mm PrimoFlex LRT (Crystal Clear)
> Mayhem Aurora - Galaxy Purple
> 120mm Corsair SP120 Purple LED fans
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I'm almost speechless! Will it bite?
Click to expand...

Nice builds!









DB, it may not bite, but I'll bet it has flees.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *theoblivinator*
> 
> Some newbie questions here, could use some advice.
> 
> I have an Enthoo Primo case that is mostly furnished with all my parts. I'm still waiting on my two Geforce GTX 980's, but that is the last of the hardware I'm waiting on before I start to install my watercooling loop. Basically I want to run this by other Primo owners and make sure everything thing will fit.
> 
> I'm planning on putting an Alphacool NexXxoS UT60 Full Copper Quad 120mm Radiator in the bottom fans set up in push-pull configuration. Then I want to put an Alphacool NexXxoS UT60 Full Copper Triple 120mm Radiator in the top, with fans in either push or pull config, haven't decided yet. 99% sure these will fit based on everything I have read. Any other suggestions for rads let me know, I'm all ears at this point.
> 
> Since a Geforce GTX 980 is 10.5 inches in length, having two of them will mean I'll have to remove the reservoir bracket that sits to the right of the motherboard in order to fit both of 980's in the case correct? Unless I want to modify the bracket slightly to allow more room for both GPUs. So what type of reservoir are others using and recommending with this case? I want to use an inline reservoir, it doesn't have to be huge. Anything with a blue aesthetic to it would be dope.
> 
> I'm in the market for a great fan controller for all those fans I'm going to have on my rads. Any suggestions?
> 
> That's it for now. If anyone would be kind enough to help me get through the learning curve on watercooling that would be awesome. Thanks!


Your rad choices will fit no problem. You'll have to remove the lower HDD cage to fit the 480 in the bottom. Or you could put the 480 in the top and the 360 in the bottom and keep all the HDD cages. [edit: Note that a 60mm rad with fans in push pull would need to overhang the top 15mm of your mobo, which shouldn't really be an issue unless you have something along the top of the mobo taller than the 53mm of offset clearance]

As far as whether the Photon res will fit with your GPUs either on the res bracket or to the back of the case, it'll be really close, too close to say for sure. I want to say that they probably will fit, but 10.5" is the max length GPU that will fit with a Photon res on the res bracket and just a couple mm's more and they won't fit. And whether multiple 10.5" GPUs will fit with the res bracket by itself will be dependent on what mobo, and what slots you need to have the cards in. You might need to nibble a bit of the lower part of the res bracket with a dremel to fit the card in a lower slot.

See here for more specific measurements of the Photon in a Primo, and here is an example of where Pierre3400 was able to fit three 10.5" cards with a Photon on the res bracket, but he did have to cut away a little bit of the bottom part of the bracket to get the lowest card to fit. It'd be nice to know _exactly_ how long those cards are that Pierre3400 was using.

As far as mounting on the back of the case it depends also on the width of the GPU's pcbs. Some haven't been able to mount any res on the back with wider cards, and again the extra width of the Photon won't help things.

*EDIT: My bad!*








Don't know where I got the idea that you were asking about a Photon reservoir, which has a glass tube that's 73mm wide, as opposed to a more standard 60mm width most reservoirs have. lol. You should be able to fit most any popular 60mm wide res, like one from Bitspower or EK, on the res bracket or on the back of the case without issues with 10.5" cards. The only issue I see you running into might be with the res bracket for the lower card and that's pretty easily remedied with some light modding.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pierre3400*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Phantatsy*
> 
> Should fit just fine.
> http://skratchwizpc.net/wp-content/uploads/2013/08/Water-Cooled-Build-1.png
> 
> 
> 
> I am confused by this.
> 
> A big rad to cool CPU and the ever so unnecessary watercooled ram, and then a small 240 rad to cool 4gpus? Seems like a huge mismatch.
Click to expand...

That looks to be the build Phanteks used in it's marketing / advertising of the case when the Primo was first released. I never did see any specific build log of it but I'd say it's a pretty safe bet that there's another rad or rads placed in the front and side of the case out of view that's part of the GPU loop. All you can see is a tube heading that direction.


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dorito Bandit*
> 
> Very nice job! At first I was like is this a home than realized it's a real phanteks case. Hope you don't have a dog he might just attack it
> I'm almost speechless! Will it bite?


----------



## taem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phantatsy*
> 
> Should fit just fine.


Is that a bitspower z multi? I've been thinking I should just get one of those since the Enthoo Primo predrilled holes have that res mount in mind. That pic is reassuring, and again, it seems highly unlikely FrozenCPU would mount the Photon 170 in their system if it would preclude a watercooled gpu.

But I'm taking measurements and it looks tight. Here are the measures for the Photon 170:



Some bad phone pix of the dimensions we're talking about in the Primo:




And then the block and backplate for the 290:



The length of the backplate is about 268mm. I can't find specs for how much the ports protrude from the card.


----------



## taem

What hdd adapters are folks using for the bays? I liked the look of these



but it won't work, screw holes don't line up to secure them. Good thing I ordered several :/

I have several other hdd adapters, including an Evercool Armor. None of those line up screw hole wise either.


----------



## Phantatsy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *taem*
> 
> What hdd adapters are folks using for the bays? I liked the look of these
> 
> 
> 
> but it won't work, screw holes don't line up to secure them. Good thing I ordered several :/
> 
> I have several other hdd adapters, including an Evercool Armor. None of those line up screw hole wise either.


You mean 3.5 to 2.5 adapters?


----------



## taem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phantatsy*
> 
> You mean 3.5 to 2.5 adapters?


No, 5.25 to 3.5.


----------



## shremi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *taem*
> 
> No, 5.25 to 3.5.


I have used this adapters for my server NAS and i can't really complain great quality also


----------



## taem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shremi*
> 
> I have used this adapters for my server NAS and i can't really complain great quality also


I have that one. The Primo tool less bay latch doesn't secure it, and the screw holes don't line up.


----------



## shremi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *taem*
> 
> I have that one. The Primo tool less bay latch doesn't secure it, and the screw holes don't line up.


Sorry yeah i don't use them on the primo i thought you were looking for some adapters


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *taem*
> 
> Is that a bitspower z multi? I've been thinking I should just get one of those since the Enthoo Primo predrilled holes have that res mount in mind. That pic is reassuring, and again, it seems highly unlikely FrozenCPU would mount the Photon 170 in their system if it would preclude a watercooled gpu.
> 
> But I'm taking measurements and it looks tight. Here are the measures for the Photon 170:
> 
> 
> 
> Some bad phone pix of the dimensions we're talking about in the Primo:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And then the block and backplate for the 290:
> 
> 
> 
> The length of the backplate is about 268mm. I can't find specs for how much the ports protrude from the card.


I just bought bitspower multi tank for my enthoo pro (150 size). You think it will fit on the res bracket or probably better to mount it to optical/ hdd cages


----------



## Tinofcatfood

G'day folks,

I'm hovering over the order button for the Enthoo Primo Black and ORANGE edition.

I've been trying to figure out if it comes with the standard blue LED strip and blue LED fans or if they are all orange to match the interior.

Can anyone confirm this before I buy?

My thanks

- Tin


----------



## Perturabo

any news about release day for Phanteks Enthoo EVOLV?


----------



## WeirdHarold

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tinofcatfood*
> 
> G'day folks,
> 
> I'm hovering over the order button for the Enthoo Primo Black and ORANGE edition.
> 
> I've been trying to figure out if it comes with the standard blue LED strip and blue LED fans or if they are all orange to match the interior.
> 
> Can anyone confirm this before I buy?
> 
> My thanks
> 
> - Tin


Hey I just started looking at the Phantek cases, where are you looking at the Primo in colors other than Black or White?


----------



## madmalkav

Caseking have one black with orange and one black with gold cases, I also thought about the LEDs when I saw them, will like to know.


----------



## quick1unc

I have been loving my Luxe so far and just ordered a pro to put my old build in since it was a good price for the features and more than enough to house my smaller build.


----------



## tCoLL

My luxe is in the mail, should be coming in tomorrow. I'm wondering about getting a <38mm 420 in the top area. 

It looks like I'll have to make some cuts for the inlet/outlets (red marked areas). What would be a good tool for this job?

I'm thinking about this radiator because it is the thickest I could find <38mm, but the ports are spaced widely apart. Having the ports closer together means I could just cut a small tab out instead of making two cuts, this is the other rad I'm thinking about


----------



## demps709

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tCoLL*
> 
> My luxe is in the mail, should be coming in tomorrow. I'm wondering about getting a <38mm 420 in the top area.
> 
> It looks like I'll have to make some cuts for the inlet/outlets (red marked areas). What would be a good tool for this job?
> 
> I'm thinking about this radiator because it is the thickest I could find <38mm, but the ports are spaced widely apart. Having the ports closer together means I could just cut a small tab out instead of making two cuts, this is the other rad I'm thinking about


Shouldn't have to make any cuts. I have a 420 UT60 in the top and the ports fit, although its close.


----------



## tCoLL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *demps709*
> 
> Shouldn't have to make any cuts. I have a 420 UT60 in the top and the ports fit, although its close.


I would like to get my grill back on top, so I won't go as thick. You're using both the ports on the other side?


----------



## demps709

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tCoLL*
> 
> I would like to get my grill back on top, so I won't go as thick. You're using both the ports on the other side?


Huh? I only have the top off to show the ports. I run a 60mm thick 420 in the top with fans in the top section and the top closed. I use the two ports on the bottom and that port being used on top is a bleed valve.

Edit: Oh you want it on the top, technically outside of the main case area? Why?


----------



## tCoLL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *demps709*
> 
> Huh? I only have the top off to show the ports. I run a 60mm thick 420 in the top with fans in the top section and the top closed. I use the two ports on the bottom and that port being used on top is a bleed valve.
> 
> Edit: Oh you want it on the top, technically outside of the main case area? Why?


No, I want it in the case. Do you have the luxe or pro? The pro doesn't have the extra ceiling that the luxe has. Do you have more pics?


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Looks to me like there's only just enough room for a 25mm thick set of fans on top of the Luxe chassis and still get the filter cover back on. Don't know how anyone would manage to fit a 36mm thick rad up there.


----------



## demps709

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tCoLL*
> 
> No, I want it in the case. Do you have the luxe or pro? The pro doesn't have the extra ceiling that the luxe has. Do you have more pics?


I have a Luxe, which is what you said is in the mail for you as well.



This is an old pic from the start of the build but it is probably the best to show the 60mm rad with the fans up in the top.


----------



## tCoLL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Looks to me like there's only just enough room for a 25mm thick set of fans on top of the Luxe chassis and still get the filter cover back on. Don't know how anyone would manage to fit a 36mm thick rad up there.


This shows 1.5 inches of space


----------



## quick1unc

Demps, what 420 rad is that, I was thinking about the same size in my luxe when the 970 blocks come out and if that one fits well I'd go with it.


----------



## itssowrong

Hey all im very much considering purchasing the enthoo luxe but i have a question. can i fit a 360 rad on the top in a push pull without hitting the mobo i am currently using a sabertooth z77 with the armor on it. im worried that it might hit the mobo armor and not allow a push pull.


----------



## quick1unc

That would depend on the depth of the radiator. Looking at the spec page for the Luxe, there are 65mm from the top of the radiator to the edge of the motherboard, so if you want push pull you'd have to get a rad/fan combo that didn't exceed 65mm.


----------



## itssowrong

do you know if the mounting holes on the top of the luxe are offset so as to space the radiator away from the mobo tray.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *itssowrong*
> 
> do you know if the mounting holes on the top of the luxe are offset so as to space the radiator away from the mobo tray.


There's almost no offset at all. Certainly not enough to allow any sort of overhang over the top of the mobo, not even from the 120mm slots.



Max thickness for a rad in push pull in the Luxe is 40mm.


----------



## itssowrong

ok so another quick question if i do a single 30mm thick 140 rad on the exhaust in push and a 360 stealth rad on the top also 30mm thick in a push pull will that be enough for gpu and cpu, asus gtx 780 and i5 3570k currently overclocked to 4.2 but id like to try to hit 4.5 on water.


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *itssowrong*
> 
> ok so another quick question if i do a single 30mm thick 140 rad on the exhaust in push and a 360 stealth rad on the top also 30mm thick in a push pull will that be enough for gpu and cpu, asus gtx 780 and i5 3570k currently overclocked to 4.2 but id like to try to hit 4.5 on water.


Oh yea. Easy. Go for a 30-35mm thick for your radiators and do push/pull with both. The 140mm exhaust could even be 40mm+ thick as it wont really interfere with anything. The nice thing about the Luxe is that the top housing can fit fans underneath it. So you can easily do push pull. Something I kind of regret about not splurging for the Luxe instead of the Pro.


----------



## reset1101

Hi all, I have one doubt about the Phanteks Enthoo Primo case fans. I know that they are loud at full speed (for me at least) from what Ive seen/heard on the reviews. But I wonder if tuned down to 600rpms for example, they make any kind of weird motor noise or something, or they are just plain silent.

Thanks a lot.


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *itssowrong*
> 
> do you know if the mounting holes on the top of the luxe are offset so as to space the radiator away from the mobo tray.


they are centered. wish they were offset myself. IMO Phantks should have made it so the wall that covers the drives and the psu cover are closer to the window panel. the current design prevents 280 rad mounting in front/bottom. the indent where the psu mounts also eats into internal clearance on the bottom of the case. they should revise the internals a bit IMO.


----------



## pokyfudywise

hey guys how do you think EK reservoir bays would look like ?
http://www.ekwb.com/shop/reservoirs-and-acc/reservoirs/ek-dbay-res-spin-acetal-original-csq.html
http://www.ekwb.com/shop/reservoirs-and-acc/reservoirs/ek-dbay-res-spin-plexi-original-csq.html


----------



## brian-phanteks

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tinofcatfood*
> 
> G'day folks,
> 
> I'm hovering over the order button for the Enthoo Primo Black and ORANGE edition.
> 
> I've been trying to figure out if it comes with the standard blue LED strip and blue LED fans or if they are all orange to match the interior.
> 
> Can anyone confirm this before I buy?
> 
> My thanks
> 
> - Tin


The LED strip, power button LEDs, LED fans, and HDD indicator lights are all orange.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brian-phanteks*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Tinofcatfood*
> 
> G'day folks,
> 
> I'm hovering over the order button for the Enthoo Primo Black and ORANGE edition.
> 
> I've been trying to figure out if it comes with the standard blue LED strip and blue LED fans or if they are all orange to match the interior.
> 
> Can anyone confirm this before I buy?
> 
> My thanks
> 
> - Tin
> 
> 
> 
> The LED strip, power button LEDs, LED fans, and HDD indicator lights are all orange.
Click to expand...

Will this or any of the other dual-tone versions ever show up in the US?

edit:
OK I just noticed the Orange & Black one is available on phanteksusa.com. Don't know how I missed that earlier. Hmmm, tempting.

I've seen mention elsewhere that there is/was also going to be other dual color Primos available in Black/White, Black/Gold and Black/Red.


----------



## itssowrong

how big of a rad can you fit in the top of the luxe if you remove the 5 1/4 bays.


----------



## emsj86

Bitspower 150 res, 360 rad to add to my 240 rad, ek nickel clear supremacy and lots of fittings all came in the mail. I have enthoo pro went from expanded 240l glacer which performed amazing for gpu and cpu but now i want to have what the big boys have. Name of the build is blue blurry (using blue berry pastel) will be posting pictures tonight


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *itssowrong*
> 
> how big of a rad can you fit in the top of the luxe if you remove the 5 1/4 bays.


You can fit the same rads in the top with the 5.25" bays in place as you can with them removed. There's room for up to a 40mm thick 240/280/360/420 rad with fans in push pull and up to a 65mm thick rad with just one set of fans on top. A 360 or 420 will likely block at least some usefulness of at least the top bay though.

Removing the 5.25" bays would allow for a larger rad to be mounted to the front of the case.


----------



## emsj86

Not to start up a big debate. But is push pull really worth it. 60-120 worth if fans for a degree or two. Usually I ht the cpu or gpu limit before temps come into play (in use 360 and 240 rad for fx8350 and 780 gpu )


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Not to start up a big debate. But is push pull really worth it. 60-120 worth if fans for a degree or two. Usually I ht the cpu or gpu limit before temps come into play (in use 360 and 240 rad for fx8350 and 780 gpu )


Martin'sLiquidLab's testing has shown pretty consistently that "_About the only generalization is that push/pull is still your best bet if cost is not a problem and that will hold true for all radiators_". On test after test you find Martin saying things like "_there is a pressure benefit to doubling up on fans and this translates to about a 20-30% performance gain_" with the greater benefits seen on thicker / more restrictive rads & "_I would always recommend a push/pull configuration for two fans_".

Since rad thickness tends to have a much smaller effect on performance, you will generally see better cooling from a thinner rad in push pull than you would from a similar but thicker rad in the same spot in just push or pull with the same fans / fan speeds. Push pull also will allow you to run fans at slower / quieter speeds for similar performance to what you would get with just one set of fans at a higher / louder speeds.


----------



## leo5111

can you put the Enthoo Pro, can the swiftech hd320 fit inside up top? this kit http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/swh2elselico1.html


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *leo5111*
> 
> can you put the Enthoo Pro, can the swiftech hd320 fit inside up top? this kit http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/swh2elselico1.html


I don't have either that case or that combo to say 100% for certain, but I do know that there's 65mm of space for a rad + fans in the top of the Enthoo Pro to be able to fit a 360 or 420 rad (ie: up to a 40mm thick rad plus 25mm thick fans), so looking at the specs for that kit I don't see any reason why it wouldn't fit. According to that the rad altogether with the fans would come to 59mm thick so that shouldn't be an issue at all. The only thing that distinguishes it from a standard 360 rad is that extra end tank on it but it doesn't appear to be too thick or too long to pose any issues. At 419mm overall length it's still at least 30mm shorter length than a 420 rad would be.

http://www.swiftech.com/h2o-x20-elite.aspx#tab2


----------



## mcnumpty23

any one know how to power the blue led strip in the enthoo primo without any hardware installed?

would like to see what it looks like while waiting for parts to do my build,but cant see a connector

or is it only powered by the on off switch?


----------



## WeirdHarold

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mcnumpty23*
> 
> any one know how to power the blue led strip in the enthoo primo without any hardware installed?
> 
> would like to see what it looks like while waiting for parts to do my build,but cant see a connector
> 
> or is it only powered by the on off switch?


First off I don't have the case, but as the lighting switch is supposed to allow you to power more lighting other than that strip I'd guess it has to have a power connector somewhere?? If you can find it you could hook it up to a power supply and jump the 2 wires on the PS like is done to bleed a water cooling loop, I've done this to test LED's before.

Oh yeah, if you don't know the trick for jumping the PS pins, on the main 24 pin motherboard connector you can use a paperclip to jump the Green wire to one of the black wires (one of the wires right next to the green wire is black). Then just toggle the switch on the back of the PS on and off, this powers on the PS with out powering up an entire system. You can also get a special tool that plugs into the 24 pin connector that has a wire that jumps the 2 pins for you.


----------



## mcnumpty23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WeirdHarold*
> 
> First off I don't have the case, but as the lighting switch is supposed to allow you to power more lighting other than that strip I'd guess it has to have a power connector somewhere?? If you can find it you could hook it up to a power supply and jump the 2 wires on the PS like is done to bleed a water cooling loop, I've done this to test LED's before.


yeah i intended to jump the black and green wire on a spare psu

but can only find 6 of the 2 pin connectors that are used for leds on fans that have the seperate connector,,cant seem to see any power connector thats coming from the led strip


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mcnumpty23*
> 
> any one know how to power the blue led strip in the enthoo primo without any hardware installed?
> 
> would like to see what it looks like while waiting for parts to do my build,but cant see a connector
> 
> or is it only powered by the on off switch?


Plug the 4-pin molex from the PSU into the switch ("12V INPUT") and it powers the switch, the case & front fan LEDs, and all the other the optional LED ports.


----------



## mcnumpty23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Plug the 4-pin molex from the PSU into the switch ("12V INPUT") and it powers the switch, the case & front fan LEDs, and all the other the optional LED ports.


ok,,thats a + rep for you

it only lit up on the top of the case,,shouldnt the led go down the front as well?

and its just a thin line of blue is that right?


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mcnumpty23*
> 
> ok,,thats a + rep for you
> 
> it only lit up on the top of the case,,shouldnt the led go down the front as well?
> 
> and its just a thin line of blue is that right?


Yes, it's just a thin blue line. Make sure the front LED is connected. You have to disconnect it if you ever remove the front panel and remember to connect it back.


----------



## mcnumpty23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Yes, it's just a thin blue line. Make sure the front LED is connected. You have to disconnect it if you ever remove the front panel and remember to connect it back.


just took the front off

guess the person who sold it to me forgot to mention they had taken the bottom led strip out

oh well,,i got the case cheap so not a great problem,,phanteks will soon send me one if i get bothered by it not being there


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mcnumpty23*
> 
> just took the front off
> 
> guess the person who sold it to me forgot to mention they had taken the bottom led strip out
> 
> oh well,,i got the case cheap so not a great problem,,phanteks will soon send me one if i get bothered by it not being there


If it really is missing, not just unplugged, you might have a go at replacing it. Here's a guide:

http://themodzoo.com/forum/index.php?/topic/883-enthoo-primo-front-led-color-change/


----------



## emsj86

and the upgrades begin. First step let's carbon fiber wrap it up. 360 rad, ek block and res tomorrow. Will post pics. Thinking of carbon wrapping un used pci slots for a more clean look since sabertooth mobo has some ugly tanish brown colors


----------



## emsj86

With how it doesn't save your colors I for one would buy my own color leds and Install them. So you do t have to switch them everytime


----------



## taem

Odd results with Asrock's fan tuning utility and the Phanteks fan hub. I connected all 5 stock Phanteks fans in the Primo to the hub and ran the Asrock fan test:



Immediately re-ran the test and got this:



Everytime I run it, I get different results.

Swiftech 8 way pwm splitter tests just fine:



Anyone test the fan hub using the rpm test function of different mobo brands like Asus or Giga? They all like this or just Asrock?

Interestingly Asrock's fan utility will let me run 3 pin fans at very low rpms. With Asus Fan Xpert 2, 3 pin fans had a minimum rpm setting that was around 40%. With Asrock, the 3 pin fans have almost pwm rpm ranges. I can run 3 pin fans as low as 10-20%.



No clicks, no odd behaviors so far. With Asus, I had to run 3 pin fans at around 40% rpms.

Generally Asus Fan Xpert is the better utility, but Asrock's FAN-Tastic Tuning has one advantage: you don't have to go by cpu temp, you can choose one of the mobo thermal sensors instead.



I don't recall that being an option with my Asus boards.

edit to add, I'm air cooling while collecting my loop parts, and it seems like the Enthoo Primo is less effective at air cooling than the Define R4 I was using. Temps are higher by 3-5c across the board, cpu gpu core vrms. I should note though that the front fans are blocked by all the hdd slots being filled, so intakes are from bottom (stock fans x 2) and top (Swiftech Helix 120 x 2, mounted toward the front, basically right above the 5.25 bays).


----------



## mcnumpty23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> If it really is missing, not just unplugged, you might have a go at replacing it. Here's a guide:
> 
> http://themodzoo.com/forum/index.php?/topic/883-enthoo-primo-front-led-color-change/


yeah its totally not in there,i took the plastic cover off to check---thanks for that link

those are really thin led strips,i might struggle to get ones so thin in the uk

but phanteks support in holland will sell me one if i cant find one that thin

the person i got it from had connected that input connector for the led strip that you said to the fan hub---thats why i couldnt find how to power the led strip in the beginning,,,lol

still i only paid half the retail price for the case so little niggles dont matter


----------



## madmalkav

If you were to only mount one 480mm , 60mm thick radiator on the Primo, would you mount it top or bottom? Exhaust or intake?


----------



## TallGray

ENTHOO PRIMO QUESTION/REQUEST

Hey all, was hoping someone who has done SLI on the primo could help me with this. We all know the reservoir bracket gets in the way of the second card most of the time, I'm having that issue myself and I wanted to see how you guys have modded the bracket.

If you have any pictures I can use as reference or methods you used, it would be very very helpful. I think I'm just going to take a dremel to it, but any feedback would be great as I am pretty anal about details and seeing untidy cables is keeping me up at night.


----------



## taem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *madmalkav*
> 
> If you were to only mount one 480mm , 60mm thick radiator on the Primo, would you mount it top or bottom? Exhaust or intake?


Top intake. I'd rather lose one 5.25 bay than the three 3.5 hdd slots of the lower drive cage. And you'd get much better airflow with top intake especially in p/p. I think the pros here are raising their units for better airflow at bottom. Me I just stuck 5 mm high felt pads on the rubber feet so I can slide the case.


----------



## kalleklovn12

Yey! Enthoo Primo!


----------



## mcnumpty23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kalleklovn12*
> 
> Yey! Enthoo Primo!


great job







,,just need to sleeve that 24 pin connector cable


----------



## emsj86

Very nice I'll be posting my build tonight. Adding 360 rad and bitspower res


----------



## emsj86

Kind of wish I went with the all black and white look. I went blue which is nice but my mobo colors are awful (sabertooth 990fx)


----------



## kalleklovn12

Thanks folks! I know i need to sleeve. I'm just too lazy!







Can't find any sleeved cables to my Enermax Platimax. Should have gotten the Corsair Axi 1200/1500w.


----------



## Akhenaton

Hi guys, has anyone tried to install two 360/420 (front and top) in the Luxe? Without the 5.25'' obviously.


----------



## emsj86

what do you guys think ? bleeding it out now. Calling it the blue blurry. 8350, gtx 780, enthoo pro, 360 and 240 rad, bitspower m tank res, swiftech new mcp50x pump.


----------



## emsj86




----------



## emsj86




----------



## emsj86

I have a question it's been bleeding for an hour and I got restless bc it's about time to sleep and I booted it up. My gpu is at 25 idle but cpu bounces from 40 to 60. Before on a glacer 240 it idle at 20. I tried reseating and same thing. Might have to contact ek


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TallGray*
> 
> ENTHOO PRIMO QUESTION/REQUEST
> 
> Hey all, was hoping someone who has done SLI on the primo could help me with this. We all know the reservoir bracket gets in the way of the second card most of the time, I'm having that issue myself and I wanted to see how you guys have modded the bracket.
> 
> If you have any pictures I can use as reference or methods you used, it would be very very helpful. I think I'm just going to take a dremel to it, but any feedback would be great as I am pretty anal about details and seeing untidy cables is keeping me up at night.





As you can see the metal shop cut it too much... I kept the original pattern but it should have been 1 cm at least not so deep. I didn't have a dremel by that time but if it was today I would do it myself too using a dremel.









Hope it helps.










Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> I have a question it's been bleeding for an hour and I got restless bc it's about time to sleep and I booted it up. My gpu is at 25 idle but cpu bounces from 40 to 60. Before on a glacer 240 it idle at 20. I tried reseating and same thing. Might have to contact ek


its been a long time since I have an amd cpu but if memory serves the current generation of AMD cpus are known to not report the idle temperature properly. How high were your temps with the glacer under the same stress you are putting your loop now? Goggle this problem and potential incompatibilities with software temperature reading tools and you will find useful information on this. Is most likely that or a bad seat of the cpu which apparently you already tried.


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

What I think about the Blue Blurry? Is that an 8350 is bottlenecking your 780.


----------



## Jeemil89

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> I have a question it's been bleeding for an hour and I got restless bc it's about time to sleep and I booted it up. My gpu is at 25 idle but cpu bounces from 40 to 60. Before on a glacer 240 it idle at 20. I tried reseating and same thing. Might have to contact ek


Double check that the block is mounted properly and that you have taken off the plastic covering from the bottom of the block.


----------



## Perfect_Chaos

No clue how this happened but can anyone recommend how i fix this little chip of the paint of my Luxe?


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeemil89*
> 
> Double check that the block is mounted properly and that you have taken off the plastic covering from the bottom of the block.


Turns out looks like I'm missing the insert pin. Didn't come with it. Sucks bc my pc is down and can't get a reply from ek


----------



## TallGray

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you can see the metal shop cut it too much... I kept the original pattern but it should have been 1 cm at least not so deep. I didn't have a dremel by that time but if it was today I would do it myself too using a dremel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hope it helps.


I have a dremel, but I'm afraid it won't look good because theres no way i can cut straight lines with it haha.Hmm...machine shop eh...I will check it out, thanks a lot of the help and pictures.


----------



## emsj86

just waiting on my Icemodz extensions than I'm all set


----------



## emsj86




----------



## mcnumpty23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TallGray*
> 
> I have a dremel, but I'm afraid it won't look good because theres no way i can cut straight lines with it haha.Hmm...machine shop eh...I will check it out, thanks a lot of the help and pictures.


its not easy to do a straight line with a dremel

im waiting for my bracket to arrive from phanteks so havent actually got one to test on yet

but i would think a cordless drill with a small drill bit,

drill a straight line of small holes next to each other--use something with a straight edge while doing it like a spirit level

then use a small pair of cutters or junior hacksaw blade along the holes

then rub down with a file then sandpaper

should work ok


----------



## Tunz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TallGray*
> 
> I have a dremel, but I'm afraid it won't look good because theres no way i can cut straight lines with it haha.Hmm...machine shop eh...I will check it out, thanks a lot of the help and pictures.


I used a dremel, and cut along the folded edge of the bracket. That should give you a guideline for a straight cut. I then sanded the edge and wrapped the whole piece in black vinyl.


----------



## Cr4zy

Finished my Enthoo Primo build today!








Spec:
Intel i7 5960x
ASUS X99-E WS
2x GTX 980
Corsair 16GB DDR4
X-Fi Titanium HD
4 SSDs, 1 HDD
Corsair AX860i

Watercooling:
2x Black Ice 480 SR-1
EK Supremecy EVO - Nickel/Plexi
EK GTX980 FC - Nickle/Acetel
EK-D5 Vario X-TOP
Bitspower Z-Multi 150ml Res
Aquacomputer Flow sensor
Aquacomputer Aquero 5 LT
E22 10/12mm Acrylic Tube
Many, Bitspower fitings
9x Gentle Typhoon AP-15
3x Phanteks 140mm

Even with all the cable space, once you throw a pump in there, things get dicey my sidepanel only just fits on










Only issue I really had was fitting the lower 480. I think in total there's one screw per fan because it's bending the rad frame so much it's impossible to install the others, but the thing is in there so damn tight it is hard to remove by hand anyway.


----------



## Dorito Bandit

Very nice build, bro!


----------



## emsj86

What leds is everyone using? I would like white ones


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cr4zy*
> 
> Finished my Enthoo Primo build today!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spec:
> Intel i7 5960x
> ASUS X99-E WS
> 2x GTX 980
> Corsair 16GB DDR4
> X-Fi Titanium HD
> 4 SSDs, 1 HDD
> Corsair AX860i
> 
> Watercooling:
> 2x Black Ice 480 SR-1
> EK Supremecy EVO - Nickel/Plexi
> EK GTX980 FC - Nickle/Acetel
> EK-D5 Vario X-TOP
> Bitspower Z-Multi 150ml Res
> Aquacomputer Flow sensor
> Aquacomputer Aquero 5 LT
> E22 10/12mm Acrylic Tube
> Many, Bitspower fitings
> 9x Gentle Typhoon AP-15
> 3x Phanteks 140mm
> 
> Even with all the cable space, once you throw a pump in there, things get dicey my sidepanel only just fits on
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Only issue I really had was fitting the lower 480. I think in total there's one screw per fan because it's bending the rad frame so much it's impossible to install the others, but the thing is in there so damn tight it is hard to remove by hand anyway.


What and how many white leds are you using would like to buy the ones you have I like the full window look rather than it looking like it comes from one side


----------



## Cr4zy

Im using a LED strip I got off ebay specifically this one

They run off 12v DC, so, wire it up to a molex and it's good to go! Extremely cheap for 5m can be cut to length and re-wired/soldered back together!


----------



## theoblivinator

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cr4zy*
> 
> Im using a LED strip I got off ebay specifically this one
> 
> They run off 12v DC, so, wire it up to a molex and it's good to go! Extremely cheap for 5m can be cut to length and re-wired/soldered back together!


About your build. Did you have to modify the reservoir bracket at all to fit both of those 980's, or were you able to place them in the mobo slots so that it fit? My build has two 980's that just came in the mail today and I was going to put them in tomorrow, but haven't measured at all to see if I need to mod the bracket to fit both of them in there. Any tips would be sweet.

And I love your build. Looks dope.


----------



## lklem

This is mine,

Top rad: Alphacool UT60 480 with Corsair SP120 SP push/pull
Bottom rad: Alphacool XT45 360 with Gentle Typhoon AP15 push/pull


----------



## Pierre3400

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cr4zy*
> 
> Finished my Enthoo Primo build today!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spec:
> Intel i7 5960x
> ASUS X99-E WS
> 2x GTX 980
> Corsair 16GB DDR4
> X-Fi Titanium HD
> 4 SSDs, 1 HDD
> Corsair AX860i
> 
> Watercooling:
> 2x Black Ice 480 SR-1
> EK Supremecy EVO - Nickel/Plexi
> EK GTX980 FC - Nickle/Acetel
> EK-D5 Vario X-TOP
> Bitspower Z-Multi 150ml Res
> Aquacomputer Flow sensor
> Aquacomputer Aquero 5 LT
> E22 10/12mm Acrylic Tube
> Many, Bitspower fitings
> 9x Gentle Typhoon AP-15
> 3x Phanteks 140mm
> 
> Even with all the cable space, once you throw a pump in there, things get dicey my sidepanel only just fits on
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Only issue I really had was fitting the lower 480. I think in total there's one screw per fan because it's bending the rad frame so much it's impossible to install the others, but the thing is in there so damn tight it is hard to remove by hand anyway.


If you removed the bottom plastic and the side of the 5.25bays, it should be fine. My 480 sits perfect without any fuss. Will have my new x99 buold ready in about 2 or 3 weeks. Then i shall show it off.


----------



## doyll

Go away for a few days and come back to all kinds of great new builds !


----------



## WeirdHarold

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Go away for a few days and come back to all kinds of great new builds !


Well that's what you get for going away


----------



## Akhenaton

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Akhenaton*
> 
> Hi guys, has anyone tried to install two 360/420 (front and top) in the Luxe? Without the 5.25'' obviously.


No one?


----------



## Jeemil89

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Akhenaton*
> 
> No one?


I think it's possible, but the airflow to the front 360 would be limited by the 5,25" covers in front.


----------



## Tunz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TallGray*
> 
> Only issue I really had was fitting the lower 480. I think in total there's one screw per fan because it's bending the rad frame so much it's impossible to install the others, but the thing is in there so damn tight it is hard to remove by hand anyway.


Try removing the cable grommets shown in the picture. My 360 monsta was a very tight fit till I removed them.


Very nice build btw.


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you can see the metal shop cut it too much... I kept the original pattern but it should have been 1 cm at least not so deep. I didn't have a dremel by that time but if it was today I would do it myself too using a dremel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hope it helps.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> its been a long time since I have an amd cpu but if memory serves the current generation of AMD cpus are known to not report the idle temperature properly. How high were your temps with the glacer under the same stress you are putting your loop now? Goggle this problem and potential incompatibilities with software temperature reading tools and you will find useful information on this. Is most likely that or a bad seat of the cpu which apparently you already tried.


Fixed the problem good thing my friend had an extra one but the ek supremacy evo was missing the insert pin not the insert but the pin. With the glacer expanded and two 240 with a gpu at 4.8 never touch 54. Bitspower Water Tank Z-Multi 150 V2 going to mcp50x 360 and 2240 rad with ek block only gave me a few degrees less which is ok bc the temps our still fine. But for a budget expanding the 240 glacer or better yet the glacer 360 to your cpu and gpu is not far off from custom loop.


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tunz*
> 
> I used a dremel, and cut along the folded edge of the bracket. That should give you a guideline for a straight cut. I then sanded the edge and wrapped the whole piece in black vinyl.


Where can I get those white leds lights at. I would like ones that I don't need to solder or anything just a plug and play suggestions?


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cr4zy*
> 
> Im using a LED strip I got off ebay specifically this one
> 
> They run off 12v DC, so, wire it up to a molex and it's good to go! Extremely cheap for 5m can be cut to length and re-wired/soldered back together!


Does it come with a 4 molex or 3 pin rondo I have to add one in if I add one (I'm new to modding wires) do I solder not just strip and crimp)


----------



## Akhenaton

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeemil89*
> 
> I think it's possible, but the airflow to the front 360 would be limited by the 5,25" covers in front.


Yes, in fact I was thinking to replace the 5.25'' covers with a grill in order to prevent the limitation.


----------



## Cr4zy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *theoblivinator*
> 
> About your build. Did you have to modify the reservoir bracket at all to fit both of those 980's, or were you able to place them in the mobo slots so that it fit? My build has two 980's that just came in the mail today and I was going to put them in tomorrow, but haven't measured at all to see if I need to mod the bracket to fit both of them in there. Any tips would be sweet.
> 
> And I love your build. Looks dope.


They fit in fine there's very little space between them and the res once mounted. I had to put both my res mount clips on the lower section, if I had one at the top it got in the wayof the cards. Thanks









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pierre3400*
> 
> If you removed the bottom plastic and the side of the 5.25bays, it should be fine. My 480 sits perfect without any fuss. Will have my new x99 buold ready in about 2 or 3 weeks. Then i shall show it off.


I didnt want to bother removing bits of the case. I got it in atleast!








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tunz*
> 
> Try removing the cable grommets shown in the picture. My 360 monsta was a very tight fit till I removed them.
> 
> 
> Very nice build btw.


The lower grommet is removed, it helped, but not that much. SR-1's are about 10mm or so wider than a monsta


----------



## mcnumpty23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Does it come with a 4 molex or 3 pin rondo I have to add one in if I add one (I'm new to modding wires) do I solder not just strip and crimp)


it comes with bare wires by the look of it

so you can strip and crimp a molex or a 2 pin or 3 pin connector on

or if youre like me and have a ton of pc parts lying about--cut a connector off one that has the connector you want and join and heatshrink the wires

or if in the uk ask this ebay seller for exactly what you want--hes making me some 5mm wide led strips with 2 pin connectors to change the colour strip in my enthoo primo

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/181237952605?_trksid=p2060778.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT


----------



## Torus15

Posted by Cr4zy
Even with all the cable space, once you throw a pump in there, things get dicey my sidepanel only just fits on










Only issue I really had was fitting the lower 480. I think in total there's one screw per fan because it's bending the rad frame so much it's impossible to install the others, but the thing is in there so damn tight it is hard to remove by hand anyway.[/quote]

Know what you mean I had to build a bracket to get the pump off the ground to get all these routed reasonably tidy.

Hard to imagine the Primo not having enough room.


----------



## Tunz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Where can I get those white leds lights at. I would like ones that I don't need to solder or anything just a plug and play suggestions?


They are the Darkside Connect LED strips by DazMode. I'm running 4 of them on a splitter connected to my fan controller.
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/25137/lit-413/DarkSide_CONNECT_Dimmable_12_Modular_LED_Strip_-_White_-_Black_Sleeved.html?tl=g6c77s2118


----------



## jameschisholm

I'm also sure NZXT do 1m and 2m led strips.

I'm thinking since the built-in led's do not remember the color you set it to after a shutdown, I'll buy the Case for the features, keep the built in led's completely Off. Then buy a 1m strip and do a similar job to what Cr4zy has done.


----------



## emsj86

Mn
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jameschisholm*
> 
> I'm also sure NZXT do 1m and 2m led strips.
> 
> I'm thinking since the built-in led's do not remember the color you set it to after a shutdown, I'll buy the Case for the features, keep the built in led's completely Off. Then buy a 1m strip and do a similar job to what Cr4zy has done.[/quotE Icemodz.com have nice leds for cheap same with darkside leds cheaper and better than nzxt. If you wanti debating on getting darkside or icemodZ.


----------



## ciarlatano

I have the original PWM hub on my Primo which works perfectly. I also have three of the updated version (two boxed, one included with a Luxe) that have proven entirely useless. They literally act as on/off switches with little to no fan speed control. Same result on three different MBs with three different fan types including the stock fans in the Luxe.

Anyone else seeing this?


----------



## Sharklasers

I recently acquired a Primo myself, does anyone know if a XSPC EX280 Rad fits infront of the HDD cages?

Thanks.


----------



## emsj86

. I need help with figuring out a drain system. Originally if I mount my bottom 240 rad up front it would be easy just break the tube put a tee after the Pump which would be the lowest point. I will eventually get a alphacool 240 rad that has the port on the side which will be my drain but for the time being in looking for another option or if anyone has a link to buy the syringe that had the long tube off of it so I suck the reservior dry( I have the bottle you squeeze but the straw doesn't go all the wall to the bottom) any ideas or links would help. Thank you. (Note 360 or 240 rad only have the two ports and the reservior has two open ports at the top which is what I've been using to fill and drain but takes a lot of time. Thank you in advance


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sharklasers*
> 
> I recently acquired a Primo myself, does anyone know if a XSPC EX280 Rad fits infront of the HDD cages?
> 
> Thanks.


I know the pro id have to remove cages to fit rad up front


----------



## Sharklasers

After reading up on a few pages on this thread, it seems no 280 Rad is going to fit with the clearance, suppose I'll have to stick to a 240. Thanks anyway


----------



## TallGray

Hi guys,

Thanks for all the help thus far, here's my (forever unfinished) build. Yes, they are iphone pics with bad lighting, but I left the dslr at the office. Anyway, this was never meant to be color coordinated since it was my first build and it has some parts from my original comp. That said, I still like how it came out. Next one will actually be coordinated. I can't find my EVGA bridge









All comments welcome.

Specs:

2600K @ 4.9ghz
780 TI X 2 1300mhz core
16GB Ripjaws
128GB SSD X 2
500GB HDD X 2
1000 Watt CM SilentPro PSU

Cooling:
Swiftech H220X
Komodo NV LV GPU coolers
RX480 V3


----------



## LandonAaron

Considering getting a luxe but I am confused about the front panel material. All the reviews and descriptions that I see state that the front and top panel is made of brushed aluminum, but all the pictures that I see it just looks like it has textured plastic or something. Seems that both the Pro and the Primo have the brushed aluminum but the Luxe doesn't, which is strange as the Luxe seems to be basically an aesthetic upgrade over the Pro, but doesn't have the nice looking aluminum. Am I missing something?


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LandonAaron*
> 
> Considering getting a luxe but I am confused about the front panel material. All the reviews and descriptions that I see state that the front and top panel is made of brushed aluminum, but all the pictures that I see it just looks like it has textured plastic or something. Seems that both the Pro and the Primo have the brushed aluminum but the Luxe doesn't, which is strange as the Luxe seems to be basically an aesthetic upgrade over the Pro, but doesn't have the nice looking aluminum. Am I missing something?


I believe the Pro is plastic and the Luxe is aluminum steel. See here for a comparison of the two ...


----------



## Dorito Bandit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LandonAaron*
> 
> Considering getting a luxe but I am confused about the front panel material. All the reviews and descriptions that I see state that the front and top panel is made of brushed aluminum, but all the pictures that I see it just looks like it has textured plastic or something. Seems that both the Pro and the Primo have the brushed aluminum but the Luxe doesn't, which is strange as the Luxe seems to be basically an aesthetic upgrade over the Pro, but doesn't have the nice looking aluminum. Am I missing something?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> I believe the Pro is plastic and the Luxe is aluminum steel. See here for a comparison of the two ...


*Enthoo Pro*

Yes, the front panel of the Pro is made of plastic EXCEPT the fan intake area. That part is made of metal.


----------



## Dorito Bandit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TallGray*
> 
> Hi guys,
> 
> Thanks for all the help thus far, here's my (forever unfinished) build. Yes, they are iphone pics with bad lighting, but I left the dslr at the office. Anyway, this was never meant to be color coordinated since it was my first build and it has some parts from my original comp. That said, I still like how it came out. Next one will actually be coordinated. I can't find my EVGA bridge
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All comments welcome.
> 
> Specs:
> 
> 2600K @ 4.9ghz
> 780 TI X 2 1300mhz core
> 16GB Ripjaws
> 128GB SSD X 2
> 500GB HDD X 2
> 1000 Watt CM SilentPro PSU
> 
> Cooling:
> Swiftech H220X
> Komodo NV LV GPU coolers
> RX480 V3
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ]


Nice job!


----------



## bond32

I'm considering ordering the Primo for the second time... Mainly because it's literally, aside from caselabs, the only case to hold what I need.

Trying to remember, with a 360 monsta in the bottom in push pull, is there room for a 240 monsta in push pull up front? I know the top will fit a 60mm push pull 360...


----------



## rpjkw11

While looking at Phanteks' website the other day, I noticed their "new" Enthoo Primo SE. It's black Primo with an orangish interior. Looks rather nice. For a first time Primo buyer it's something to consider.


----------



## bond32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rpjkw11*
> 
> While looking at Phanteks' website the other day, I noticed their "new" Enthoo Primo SE. It's black Primo with an orangish interior. Looks rather nice. For a first time Primo buyer it's something to consider.


Nice find...

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811854008


----------



## LandonAaron

edit what the last guy said


----------



## LandonAaron

Alright I got bring this back up one more time. I am trying to figure out if I should go with the Luxe or the Primo, and would rather get the Luxe as it has everything I need for a $100 less, but it doesn't seem to have the same aluminum appearance as the enthoo Pro, or the enthoo primo. Trying to get a confirmation of what the material is and what it looks like. All the descriptions describe it as aluminum but it sure doesn't look like it in the pics. From what I understand about the Pro is that it has plastic made to look like aluminum, the Luxe has actual aluminum, though the pictures look like plastic, and the primo has actual aluminum and you can see that it looks like aluminum in the pictures.

Pro


Luxe:


Primo:


So whats the deal is the Luxe aluminum or not. I asked before and was told that it was metal but I still can't get my head around these pictures.


----------



## theMoP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LandonAaron*
> 
> So whats the deal is the Luxe aluminum or not. I asked before and was told that it was metal but I still can't get my head around these pictures.


Quote:


> The Enthoo Luxe's front and top aluminum panels are sandblasted to create a textured appearance.


http://www.guru3d.com/articles-pages/phanteks-enthoo-luxe-review,1.html
Quote:


> In the front, the Luxe employs sturdy aluminum pieces that rest on plastic frames. This is not your basic aluminum sheet glued to a plastic front panel.


http://www.techpowerup.com/reviews/Phanteks/Enthoo_Luxe/3.html

tl;dr: steel frame, aluminum front and top panels enclosed by plastic


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Enthoo Luxe specs:
http://www.phanteks.com/Enthoo-Luxe.html
Quote:


> BLACK WHITE
> Model NO : PH-ES614L_BK PH-ES614L_WT
> UPC Code : 886523300168 886523300236
> 
> Case Specifications
> 
> Dimension: 235 mm x 560 mm x 550 mm (W x H x D)
> Form Factor: Full Tower Chassis
> Material(s): *Aluminum faceplates, Steel Chassis*


----------



## LandonAaron

Okay, the sand blasted aluminum is what was throwing me off. I wonder why they decided to go with sandblasted instead of brushed. IMO nothing looks better than brushed aluminum even if it is a fingerprint magnet. What about the square in the middle of the fan intake area, is it sandblasted aluminum too?


----------



## demps709

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LandonAaron*
> 
> Okay, the sand blasted aluminum is what was throwing me off. I wonder why they decided to go with sandblasted instead of brushed. IMO nothing looks better than brushed aluminum even if it is a fingerprint magnet. What about the square in the middle of the fan intake area, is it sandblasted aluminum too?


Yes


----------



## LandonAaron

In the specifications for the Luxe it says it has mounts for 2x 120mm HDD fans. Are these mounted on the side of the HDD cages blowing in towards graphics card? I am going to be using a custom water cooling loop with a bay res, and universal VGA water block just for the GPU, and heatsinks for the VRM and VRAM. I want to make sure I will have good airflow across the GPU. A case with a side intake fan would probably be best, but it just ruins the look. If I can get a second row of fans though close to the GPU I think that would still give me enough airflow to cool the VRM on the graphics card.


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LandonAaron*
> 
> In the specifications for the Luxe it says it has mounts for 2x 120mm HDD fans. Are these mounted on the side of the HDD cages blowing in towards graphics card? I am going to be using a custom water cooling loop with a bay res, and universal VGA water block just for the GPU, and heatsinks for the VRM and VRAM. I want to make sure I will have good airflow across the GPU. A case with a side intake fan would probably be best, but it just ruins the look. If I can get a second row of fans though close to the GPU I think that would still give me enough airflow to cool the VRM on the graphics card.


Yes they mount on the hdd cages right next to your gpu. When I had my system hooked up for air it worked really well having two fans there blowing air on my acx gpu.


----------



## emsj86

you can see where there mounted the two blue led fans


----------



## LandonAaron

Yes, okay very cool. Yeah I think I would go with the same setup as you and use the two internal fans + the bottom fan, and I think that should provide good cooling on the VRM on the graphics card. Now its just a question of whether I want to spend the extra 90 on the primo to get that rear fan as well.


----------



## emsj86

It had my acx which was oc to 120 never reach 60 at a pretty small fan curve. Basically with the 200 up front than two 120s and I had the bottom phanteks 140 which is a static preasure fan it had plenty of air. I also had top all I take as well. Worked very well I switched to water cooling one for looks to it just that much better temp wise


----------



## LandonAaron

On the Enthoo Luxe if you have an optical drive installed in the top 5.25" bay can you still use a 420 mm radiator up top in push pull configuration? My radiators is listed a 36mm thick. I have dual bay res and need a spot for an optical drive as well so I need all three 5.25 drives.


----------



## djjorno54

Phanteks Enthoo luxe question:

Does anyone know if i could use the top 5.25" bay for a fan controller if i stuff the top with a 360mm rad?

Thanks anyway


----------



## LandonAaron

@ djjorno, well I basically had the same question as you about using a full 360 or 420 radiator up top and using the top 5.25 inch drive. I haven't found anything definite, but from this video here it doesn't sound like you can. Also just looking at the pictures it doesn't really look like you could either but I would still really like to get a confirmation from someone who owns the case. See minute 9 of video below:




Hmm, video not working see it here at youtube:


----------



## emsj86

You should since you can either mount the fans or radiator above the chasis.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LandonAaron*
> 
> [...]
> Hmm, video not working see it here at youtube:


Yeah if you want to embed a video you must use the clean link, just like the one you posted below it. If the url has an ampersand and other junk after it (ex: _&feature=player_detailpage_) the embedded video will not play.

That said, if you are wanting to point people to a certain part of a video, it's best to just post the link that goes right to that part. Right click the video at that exact spot and select "_Copy video URL at current time_" and post just the link, as you can't embed it for the same reasons explained above, and anyone clicking your link will be taken to that spot of the video.

Example: 




Much better than expecting they will click it and get taken to the vid and then remember where it was or what it was you were wanting them to see.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> You should since you can either mount the fans or radiator above the chasis.


They were both asking if the 420 and 360 rads would fit *with fans in push pull* in the Luxe w/o blocking the top 5.25" bay. I can't say for certain but just looking at it it does not appear that there will be room to have a fan under either sized rad on that end w/o blocking the top drive bay, at least enough of it to use it for a disc drive. You probably could still put something short, like a fan controller, there at least with the 360.


----------



## LandonAaron

Thanks unicornhunter, what do you think about if I just did like 5 fans and have 3 fans in pull, and just 2 fans in push and leave one empty next to the 5.25 drive, do you think that would fit?


----------



## djjorno54

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Yeah if you want to embed a video you must use the clean link, just like the one you posted below it. If the url has an ampersand and other junk after it (ex: _&feature=player_detailpage_) the embedded video will not play.
> 
> That said, if you are wanting to point people to a certain part of a video, it's best to just post the link that goes right to that part. Right click the video at that exact spot and select "_Copy video URL at current time_" and post just the link, as you can't embed it for the same reasons explained above, and anyone clicking your link will be taken to that spot of the video.
> 
> Example:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Much better than expecting they will click it and get taken to the vid and then remember where it was or what it was you were wanting them to see.
> They were both asking if the 420 and 360 rads would fit *with fans in push pull* in the Luxe w/o blocking the top 5.25" bay. I can't say for certain but just looking at it it does not appear that there will be room to have a fan under either sized rad on that end w/o blocking the top drive bay, at least enough of it to use it for a disc drive. You probably could still put something short, like a fan controller, there at least with the 360.


Thanks man! That's all i needed to know for now


----------



## LandonAaron

Well I guess I could just get an external DVD drive, but thats kind of lame. Or I could get the primo I suppose but it is one inch longer than my computer stand. Hmm.


----------



## demps709

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LandonAaron*
> 
> Thanks unicornhunter, what do you think about if I just did like 5 fans and have 3 fans in pull, and just 2 fans in push and leave one empty next to the 5.25 drive, do you think that would fit?


That should work if you use a 45mm or smaller rad. I used a 60mm 420 with the fans in pull on top. The rad takes up about half of the top bay.


----------



## Ghostrider5666

I just got my Pro! Is there a way to take off the tool free 5.25" brackets?


----------



## LandonAaron

Thanks de
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *demps709*
> 
> That should work if you use a 45mm or smaller rad. I used a 60mm 420 with the fans in pull on top. The rad takes up about half of the top bay.


Okay good to know. I am getting an XSPC EX 420 mm rad, and its listed as 36mm thick, so I might be able to squeeze it in there. I guess if I went with the Primo I could do it easily, but that is just too big of a case for me. Also considering the Switch 810 as it is pretty similar and it looks like it has four 5.25 drives, so I would have more options. Really prefer the look of the luxe though. Decisions decisions.


----------



## Phantatsy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ghostrider5666*
> 
> I just got my Pro! Is there a way to take off the tool free 5.25" brackets?


You mean these?









If so, then yeah. All you have to do is push downwards a little and it should pop off pretty easily.


----------



## Ghostrider5666

My XSPC bay res doesn't fit in my pro. What can I do?


----------



## Ghostrider5666

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phantatsy*
> 
> You mean these?
> [URL=http://i183.photobucket.com/albums/x272/The-Vheissu/IMAG0173_zpsa621cf28.jpg/IMG]http://i183.photobucket.com/albums/x272/The-Vheissu/IMAG0173_zpsa621cf28.jpg/IMG[/URL]] If so, then yeah. All you have to do is push downwards a little and it should pop off pretty easily.[/QUOTE]
> I got them off. Read my other post about my res.


----------



## Phantatsy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ghostrider5666*
> 
> My XSPC bay res doesn't fit in my pro. What can I do?


Single or dual-bay res?


----------



## Ghostrider5666

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phantatsy*
> 
> Single or dual-bay res?


Dual-bay res.


----------



## Phantatsy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ghostrider5666*
> 
> Dual-bay res.


And what do you mean by it not fitting? Does it not go in, or can you not securely mount it?


----------



## Ghostrider5666

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phantatsy*
> 
> And what do you mean by it not fitting? Does it not go in, or can you not securely mount it?


Hole don't line up right. The right side goes all the way but not the left.


----------



## Phantatsy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ghostrider5666*
> 
> Hole don't line up right. The right side goes all the way but not the left.


Is it getting stuck on something? My only guess would be if it is too tight of a fit is that your panel is warped. I would think the reason the holes aren't lining up correctly is that it isn't in straight.


----------



## Ghostrider5666

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phantatsy*
> 
> Is it getting stuck on something? My only guess would be if it is too tight of a fit is that your panel is warped. I would think the reason the holes aren't lining up correctly is that it isn't in straight.


How can I fix it?


----------



## Phantatsy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ghostrider5666*
> 
> How can I fix it?


A warped panel? Could contact Phanteks about it or you could just use a rubber mallet and some wood to keep from damaging the surface.


----------



## Ghostrider5666

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phantatsy*
> 
> A warped panel? Could contact Phanteks about it or you could just use a rubber mallet and some wood to keep from damaging the surface.


I took the whole case apart and I think it's the front panel. It lines up perfect when it's off.


----------



## Phantatsy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ghostrider5666*
> 
> I took the whole case apart and I think it's the front panel. It lines up perfect when it's off.


Have you tried to put in the res before you fit the front panel on?


----------



## Ghostrider5666

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phantatsy*
> 
> Have you tried to put in the res before you fit the front panel on?


Nope

Update: I got it to line up and I put in two screws. The front panel closed but is very tight.


----------



## Pierre3400

Little teaser from my money pit.



The ram will not be watercooled. I just didnt like the look of green ram.


----------



## WeirdHarold

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pierre3400*
> 
> Little teaser from my money pit.
> 
> 
> 
> The ram will not be watercooled. I just didnt like the look of green ram.


Looks good now, the finished Rig should be awesome


----------



## emsj86

Has anyone ordered another side window panel? Was wondering phanteks will do that and two if the new one comes is better. I have two different enthoo pros and both the side window since day one looks like they used the same brush as they did with the brushed aluminum on the front panel.


----------



## gsan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Google "rampage 4 in enthoo primo"


how did u mount the photon? can you show more picture about it?


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gsan*
> 
> how did u mount the photon? can you show more picture about it?


It's not my build, sorry. I'm just an air-head now. Gave up on H2O years ago. Was fun to play with and love the looks of rigid tubing, but the cost became for than I could justify.


----------



## sjgusmc21

I have been bouncing back and fourth between getting the CM Haf 935 and the Phanteks Luxe. What is steering me toward the 935 is that I would be able to install two psu's in the case. I have searched this thread and google to see if anyone has been able to place a second psu inside the Luxe, but haven't found any answers. I know that with a dremel tool, everything is possible, but would like to not start hacking up a brand new case if need be. Why? Because I have a 3 month old 650 watt psu and a 1000 watt one as well. I would like to run my mother board, R9 290 and the MCP355 off of the 1000, and everything else off of the 650. Why? Because I can I suppose.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.


----------



## demps709

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sjgusmc21*
> 
> I have been bouncing back and fourth between getting the CM Haf 935 and the Phanteks Luxe. What is steering me toward the 935 is that I would be able to install two psu's in the case. I have searched this thread and google to see if anyone has been able to place a second psu inside the Luxe, but haven't found any answers. I know that with a dremel tool, everything is possible, but would like to not start hacking up a brand new case if need be. Why? Because I have a 3 month old 650 watt psu and a 1000 watt one as well. I would like to run my mother board, R9 290 and the MCP355 off of the 1000, and everything else off of the 650. Why? Because I can I suppose.
> 
> Any help would be greatly appreciated.


That's pretty pointless. You could run your entire system, including "everything else" off of the 650. The 1000 is more than enough.


----------



## emsj86

You have a thousand watt psu. It's your choice but doesn't make sense. Specially if it is your determining factor on picking a case. Just run the 1000 watt sell the 650 watt and get a few drinks with that money and build your awesome luxe build


----------



## emsj86

Can someone point me to a place prefer a person. That does custom air brush or vinyal. I want a vinyal for my window on my pro. But also want to air brush my backplate of my 780


----------



## sjgusmc21

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> You have a thousand watt psu. It's your choice but doesn't make sense. Specially if it is your determining factor on picking a case. Just run the 1000 watt sell the 650 watt and get a few drinks with that money and build your awesome luxe build


Thank you for your post and information. However, I am asking if anyone has mounted a 2nd PSU in the Phanteks Luxe case.


----------



## emsj86

No


----------



## Spork13

I'm certain a second PSU _could_ be used. I could fit one in my pro, which is smaller than the Luxe (?)
Actually, I could probably fit 3 or 4 in there (drive cages removed).
Wouldn't 2 x PSU's use a lot more power than one to do the same thing? Most of them have an efficiency curve that tops out around 60-80% draw. Having just a trickle of juice flowing through each one would just be a waste of electricity.

+1 to sell one and buy a few drinks.


----------



## sjgusmc21

Thank you for your answer. I appreciate it. I believe, and what I have read, that the only difference between the Pro and Luxe is the lighting and the front plate.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spork13*
> 
> I'm certain a second PSU _could_ be used. I could fit one in *my pro, which is smaller than the Luxe (?)*
> Actually, I could probably fit 3 or 4 in there (drive cages removed).
> Wouldn't 2 x PSU's use a lot more power than one to do the same thing? Most of them have an efficiency curve that tops out around 60-80% draw. Having just a trickle of juice flowing through each one would just be a waste of electricity.
> 
> +1 to sell one and buy a few drinks.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sjgusmc21*
> 
> Thank you for your answer. I appreciate it. I believe, and what I have read, that *the only difference between the Pro and Luxe is the lighting and the front plate.*


sjg is mostly right.

The Pro and the Luxe share the exact same chassis - the steel frame and same components/layout inside for the most part. The Luxe comes with the window and psu cover, which are options with the Pro, and the Luxe comes with 2 SSD brackets to the one included with the Pro. The Luxe also has built-in RGB LED lighting and a different front and top panel. The front & top panels in the Pro are plastic with a simulated brushed aluminum finish. The Luxe top and front panels are sandblasted aluminum, and the top panel is taller allowing room for an extra layer of fans on top of the chassis under the filter cover so you can have a thicker rad or go push pull up top which you can't do in the Pro. Also the top filter in the Pro is fixed in place, while the one in the Luxe has push-click latches that make it easily removable.


----------



## gsan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *simsim44*
> 
> Has anybody tried to mount this here, I can not afford another 600 bucks right now so the mobo and GPU blocks and the ridged tube will wait I tried to mount it on the side like I've seen but the vid cards is making it way to tight.
> 
> 
> there is not enough room for the tubes/fittings to get it mounted here
> 
> 
> 
> I think once the GPU blocks are on there will be enough room, I did modify the reservoir mount then I trimmed the plastic cover to match it came out nice.


how did you mount the photon at this casing? mind to show more picture about this?


----------



## bond32

Going to have to break down and order the Primo again I think. Was holding out for the Bitfenix Atlas but doesn't appear to happen...

Not many cases out there that are quad-290x friendly (water)... Same with thick rads in push pull. Planning on a 360 monsta in push pull at the bottom, 360 xspc RX in push pull at the top, then whatever else I can fit up front (ideally a 240 monsta in push pull but I doubt that will fit). Anyone have the MCP50x pumps in the primo?


----------



## Sharklasers

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TallGray*
> 
> RX480 V3


Hello,

was that RX480 hard to fit behind the side panel? I'm considering a RX360V3 and a RX240V3 on the bottom and front, can I do Push/Pull on both?


----------



## emsj86

I have the mcp50x pump in my pro. Love that pump. Used a bitspower multi tank 150 and a 1/4 x 1/4 extender to connect. Than mount res and pump together using the clips that came with the res to the top hdd cages.


----------



## bond32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> I have the mcp50x pump in my pro. Love that pump. Used a bitspower multi tank 150 and a 1/4 x 1/4 extender to connect. Than mount res and pump together using the clips that came with the res to the top hdd cages.


Nice, I actually have the pro as well. Mind posting some pictures of your setup?


----------



## emsj86

http://www.overclock.net/t/1519439/blue-blurry-build-log-by-itzems-phanteks-enthoo-pro-case#quick-reply. Small build log of it. Still not done with it.


----------



## emsj86




----------



## emsj86




----------



## emsj86

wish I got the luxe but I beeline I got the pro when it first came out before the luxe. I want the. Aluminum top and front and really want the space above the chasis that the pro doesn't have


----------



## bond32

Lol same with me. I wish I had the luxe too, mainly for the extra space up top. Thanks for posting that, looks really good!

I will probably have a 360 up top but that's all inside the case. I might try to fit one radiator below but my main issue with this case is that it isn't friendly with the large power supplies. Even with a custom sleeve kit, my EVGA 1300 watt G2 barely fits and it's extremely tight if I try to fit a radiator in the bottom. Plus I would prefer to keep one drive cage...


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sjgusmc21*
> 
> Thank you for your post and information. However, I am asking if anyone has mounted a 2nd PSU in the Phanteks Luxe case.


there are no holes of course, but you can mount two power supplies in the bottom.I set my friend's 1000 watt in the bottom right in front of my 750 watt.


----------



## sjgusmc21

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PureBlackFire*
> 
> there are no holes of course, but you can mount two power supplies in the bottom.I set my friend's 1000 watt in the bottom right in front of my 750 watt.


Thank you very much for the information. That was the direction I was headed. The luxe is looking better and better over the Haf 935.


----------



## bond32

Enthoo Pro

Spent a little time at lunch today working on my setup. The goal is to be able to have the power supply (evga 1300 watt G2) plus an ST30 240mm radiator in push pull mounted in the floor. The problem comes in because the power supply is so large, there isn't any room to plug the cabling in with a radiator mounted. So now that I am actually using 2 EVGA G2's, I can get away with not using the bottom row of connections on the one mounted in the case (I think)...

Don't have any pictures yet but I think it is going to work. I would like to use the top drive cage as well. Hopefully, the push pull 240 won't be too tall as to block the reservoir bracket - I plan to mount one of my 2 MCP50x pumps on an EK bracket with the swiftech reservoir on the reservoir bracket.

Next challenge is to locate a potential location to drill two large holes to pass tubing through. Any ideas? Otherwise I will just keep the back panel off...

Edit: I just had a vision. Has anyone considered not actually mounting the power supply in the Pro? Would potentially allow for three 360mm radiators mounted inside...


----------



## emsj86

I would do it if I didn't have to move my unit a good amount. Than again the time to make a bracket and all might just buy a primo. But it's not a crazy idea


----------



## Trestles126

My luxe custom loop build

Asus hero v11
4ghz 4790k
Gtx780ti
Ek blocks
Bitspower fittings
Aquatube red
Ekd5/res
2 /240s
Aquaero 6 xt fan controller
Gskillz sniper 1866 2x4g

bout ready to fill it up with blood red ek fluid... Or pastel white have both and undecided


----------



## emsj86

What exactly is that on the side panel of the hdd cages? Bye looks very nice. I want to go arylic next time is hard or any more expensive that soft tubing? Note: due to my job in real life I have a debeir and tubing benders


----------



## emsj86

small update to my pro. Custom extensions for gpu and 24 pin came in sadly they forgot the white but still looks nice only with the two Cora. The white I wanted for a few reasons one it would allow me to switch to pastel white and corsair white rings without looking odd


----------



## Trestles126

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> What exactly is that on the side panel of the hdd cages? Bye looks very nice. I want to go arylic next time is hard or any more expensive that soft tubing? Note: due to my job in real life I have a debeir and tubing benders


It's a aqua computer resivoir. Only asthetic I have the ek/d5 res combo already. I only did it because when I build my first pc 12 years afo they were hard to get and always wanted one.

Acrylic is more expensive from What I see but looks way better IMo and a lil more satisfying after you finish. It's hard a deburr tool and pipe bender probably won't woek the deburrer if powers will melt the plastic. I'd recommend just buying a monsoon pro kit I tried to do it myself and its so much easier with a good kit


----------



## WeirdHarold

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trestles126*
> 
> My luxe custom loop build
> 
> Asus hero v11
> 4ghz 4790k
> Gtx780ti
> Ek blocks
> Bitspower fittings
> Aquatube red
> Ekd5/res
> 2 /240s
> Aquaero 6 xt fan controller
> Gskillz sniper 1866 2x4g
> 
> bout ready to fill it up with blood red ek fluid... Or pastel white have both and undecided


It already looks awesome and will look equally amazing with either white or red coolant - imo anyway


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trestles126*


You bought the wrong PSU that one you have in there is very mediocre.
http://www.overclock.net/t/1476935/why-you-should-not-buy-an-evga-supernova-nex650g-750g


----------



## Trestles126

Oh heavens if it don't work I paid 65 new for it I'll take my chances 750w should be plenty for 1gpu ,i7, a pump 1sd and 1hd if not I'll upgrade couldn't pass the deal up


----------



## emsj86

Man I just finished my build last week and allready wanna upgrade again to arylic. Maybe I should wait and get the primo to have some more room. Pro is nice but not much room behind the unit to run a hidden drain. Has anyone have a 240 rad in the front and bottom on the enthoo pro?


----------



## emsj86

I need myself a modular psu. I have a semi modular psu seasonic 850watt. Bought extensions. Looks and works nice but the cable management is rough to say the least


----------



## Trestles126

Thanks for right up I didn't mean to be sarcastic just think it'll be fine of not 65 bucks down the drain won't be the first thing I've wasted money on!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> You bought the wrong PSU that one you have in there is very mediocre.
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1476935/why-you-should-not-buy-an-evga-supernova-nex650g-750g


----------



## Phantatsy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> I need myself a modular psu. I have a semi modular psu seasonic 850watt. Bought extensions. Looks and works nice but the cable management is rough to say the least


If you want to keep the same 850W, I'd recommend the NZXT Hale90 V2 850W power supply as it is SUPER easy to sleeve as it doesn't have ANY double wires and the 24-pin is super easy as well.
It has a 1:1 ratio (24pin to 24pin).

NewEgg link: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817116030&cm_re=nzxt_hale-_-17-116-030-_-Product

It would basically look like this:

PSU END
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12
24 23 22 21 20 19 18 17 16 15 14 13

MOBO END
24 23 22 21 20 19 18 17 16 15 14 13
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12

They are just flipped (top wire switches with bottom)


----------



## madmalkav

Can someone give me a reason to mount a 360 radiator bottom instead of a 480? I'm about to buy one on an offer but a voice inside me won't stop saying "you could fit a 480 in that place!"

(I say at bottom because of the drain port in the radiator).


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *madmalkav*
> 
> Can someone give me a reason to mount a 360 radiator bottom instead of a 480? I'm about to buy one on an offer but a voice inside me won't stop saying "you could fit a 480 in that place!"
> 
> (I say at bottom because of the drain port in the radiator).


Assuming you are talking about the Primo.

A 480 in the bottom means you have to lose the lower HDD cage. A 360 only requires moving the cages over to their most forward position. So, do you want to keep room for 6 HDDs or can you get by on 3 (plus you have 2 incl brackets for up to 4 SSDs, and a spot for an optional extra 3rd bracket / 6 SSDs)? That's really the only thing to consider.


----------



## madmalkav

No need for all that HDDs, honestly.


----------



## Sheytan

Should i go for two 980 with reference coolers or aftermarket cooler


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *madmalkav*
> 
> No need for all that HDDs, honestly.


Speak for yourself. I can easily fill up 4 TB HDD in a few weeks.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sheytan*
> 
> Should i go for two 980 with reference coolers or aftermarket cooler


Up to you, but some things to consider.

If you are ever planning on watercooling them it's a good idea to check for waterblock availability before buying a non-ref card. A lot of non-ref cards never have compatible blocks made for them. Non-ref cooler cards tend to cool better on air by themselves, and often OC better on air, but ref blower-style coolers often cool better in sli, especially the lower card(s) if they are slotted close together on your board.


----------



## theMoP

heya unicr0nhunter,

you obviously know far more than me about overclocking, but i'm wondering about what you've said here:
Quote:


> Non-ref cooler cards tend to cool better on air by themselves, and often OC better on air, but ref blower-style coolers often cool better in sli, especially the lower card(s) if they are slotted close together on your board.


afaik, two major components of a good overclock are low temps and higher voltages

with that in mind, wouldn't something like an asus gtx 980 strix (8+6 power) with a waterblock be better at overclocking than the reference asus gtx 980 (6+6 power) on air? i mean, i'm guessing temps would be lower on the former and there's just less power input to the latter

thanks in advance for clearing up any misconceptions i may have


----------



## madmalkav

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Speak for yourself. I can easily fill up 4 TB HDD in a few weeks.


Yeah, I was trying to say that I have no need for that much HDDs, no making any statement.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *theMoP*
> 
> heya unicr0nhunter,
> 
> you obviously know far more than me about overclocking, but i'm wondering about what you've said here:
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Non-ref cooler cards tend to cool better on air by themselves, and often OC better on air, but ref blower-style coolers often cool better in sli, especially the lower card(s) if they are slotted close together on your board.
> 
> 
> 
> afaik, two major components of a good overclock are low temps and higher voltages
> 
> with that in mind, wouldn't something like an asus gtx 980 strix (8+6 power) with a waterblock be better at overclocking than the reference asus gtx 980 (6+6 power) on air? i mean, i'm guessing temps would be lower on the former and there's just less power input to the latter
> 
> thanks in advance for clearing up any misconceptions i may have
Click to expand...

Non-ref coolers cool better but they blow the air all over the inside of the case. Ref card's blower-style coolers blow all the the air out the back of the case.

Non-ref coolers generally perform a little better, slightly lower temps and the cards often overclock better for that and a variety of reasons, but when running multiple cards on air in sli sandwiched close together they often don't cool as well as blower-style ref cards do, also all the heat from non-ref cards can affect other component's temps too moreso than blower-style ref cards will.


----------



## Trestles126

Well your post made me return the 750nex and buy a supernova 850g2








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> You bought the wrong PSU that one you have in there is very mediocre.
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1476935/why-you-should-not-buy-an-evga-supernova-nex650g-750g


----------



## Spork13

Nice one.You won't be disappoint.


----------



## Trestles126




----------



## gsan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> So, when I put my Primo together last year, it was a completely rushed process. Shipping issues and deadlines didn't give me the opportunity to have the case before I ordered components for the loop, I had to do it totally blind. The results weren't awful....but certainly weren't stellar. There were two issues I absolutely hated - the route from the pump to the first rad, and the route from the res back to the pump. I also wasn't overjoyed with the way the UV was working....I wanted a subtle effect that I just wasn't getting.
> 
> 
> 
> Since it was time for maintenance, I decided to clean up a bit. First, a drain coming off the lowest port of the lowest rad is always nice to have:
> 
> 
> A couple of 90 degrees and the return from the res rides right long the shelf below the MB and disappears:
> 
> 
> Overall, a much cleaner look using a few angles:
> 
> 
> And some moves of the lighting to get the UV effect more subtle:
> 
> 
> 
> The Primo is incredible to work in, probably more possibilities than any other case out there.


how did you mount the photon res? can you show more picture about it?


----------



## tCoLL

Has anyone tried replacing the LED strips in the Luxe? The "white" color is VERY purple and it looks awful with my other white LEDs.


----------



## aclofty887

Hi Guys

I am new to the forum, thought I would introduce myself. I live in the UK, I have been buying PCs since Pentium 3 and back in those days I bought a Tiny! Scourge of the desktop owner lol. Anyway after having bad experiences I built my own starting with a tricked out Pentium 4 in a server case, cathodes, the works lol, then I went onto Core2Duo and now I have a 2500k.

Anywho I have had the 2500k since rev3 mobos came out, I had a NZXT Lexa which was a beilliant case but not very flexible when it came to graphics card since I went out and bought a 7950 last year and realised I couldn't fit it lol. I bought a white Enermax Ostrog case which for £35 is the best value case I have ever bought, until, I bought a white Luxe last week. I have to say LEDs aside it is an amazing case. My 2500K is overclocked to 4.5Ghz on 1.3ish Volts and in the old case ran 40c on idle, the luxe runs it at 35c plus there was a massive build up of dust in the Ostrog case.

Now here is a photo of the case after the transfer;


I love having the power supply hidden, it was one of the main reasons I went for this over a NZXT H440 which put me off on the lack of optical bays, some of us still use Blu Ray ROMs lol.

I decided since I got the white version I would buy some extension cables so I have used Silverstone white braided cables to extend, however the cable management kinda went out of the window lol. I love how clean it looks compared to my last case.

The next phase is water cooling, this area I am a bit green behind the ears, I have kept saltwater fish for a number of years and worked around aquatic pumps most of my life so I now how the system works and potential pit falls with the pressure and pump but when it comes to reservoirs, radiators and blocks I am at a loss lol. The plan is to keep the 2500K sitting at 4.5 since there is no real need to push it further and use a full block for the 7950 though these are pretty scarce it appears. The 7950 isn't heavily OCed though I did benchmark it at 1100Mhz lol. I am also planning to go rigid tubing since I think it can get me a cleaner look plus it will be handu for future aquatic enterprises lol.

I imagine I will be on here a lot for peoples advice so all help is greatfully appreciated and if anyone wants to ask me anything please feel free to do so. I will put my full spec below;

White Phantek Enthoo Luxe
Intel 2500K @ 4.5Ghz
Coolermaster Hyper212 CPU cooler
8Gb Corsair vengence @ 1600mhz
Asus P8P67 Pro
Msi HD7950 2PMD3GD5 OC
Antec True Power 550Watt - Modular PSW
Lg Blu ray ROM
2 additional Thermaltake 120 silent fans
Asus Xonar DX
23" HP X23 LED monitor - High Gloss look

thanks for looking


----------



## jameschisholm

Welcome to the forums fellow Brit! I am considering moving my build into a Luxe (black version) how has it been moving it all in? I hear the watercooling facilities are great for this case, however I'm unsure whether I want to w/c rather I may try a corsair AIO or another brand in the future.

Nice build!


----------



## Akima18

Hi Everyone, I was wondering if anyone could give me any suggestions / pointers / tips on how I can improve the airflow in my case or anything else that might seem out of place. I'm pretty new to all of this! I wish I could go with a custom water cooling loop, but that will have to wait until my budget is a bit bigger. (Enthoo Pro). (I also posted this in the air cooling forum, I was not sure where it would be more appropriate, I hope that is okay)

1) Here is my current airflow setup with my AP-15's, is this optimal or should I change it? (I also have the hard drive bay's removed)



Is it worth it for me to even have those 2 fan's on the bottom? For some reason they seem to make a much louder noise than the other fan's even when running at the same RPM. It sounds distinctively different from the other fan's, and my guess is maybe it has something to do with the carpet being right below them?

2) You can't see it, but I have a 1x PCI-E sound card below the second graphics card on the bottom of the case. I really wish I could move this elsewhere because it really does seem to effect my GPU temperatures. Do you guys think that moving it up to the slot indicated would change anything? Or I guess would it just basically switch the temperatures on the two GPU's?



3) I have a possibly defective H220-X cooler that I am looking into getting replaced or fixed. For some reason it seems to be much louder than it should be, but otherwise it basically gives me the same temperatures as my NH-D14. If I remove the NH-D14 and put the H220-X back in, would that make a huge difference? (Since the NH-D14 is so huge, is it "impeding" airflow at all?)

4) I was thinking about purchasing the newer NH-D15 cooler. Would I see any noticeable improvements in temperature (or sound levels) compared to my current NH-D14? I am very hesitant to do this though because from looking it up, it seems the NH-D15 is 5mm thicker and that 5mm might interfere with my card in the top PCI-E slot since it is already very very close to it.

5) At first, I had the AP-15 fan's connected to a Sentry Mix 2 fan controller (It has 6 channels with 30 Watts). The problem I had with this, was that at even the lowest possible settings, the fan's seemed to be very very loud. Does anyone know what the reason for this might be? Afterwards, I connected all of them to the fan hub that came with the Phanteks Pro case which I then connected to the CPU header on my motherboard, which allows me to control the fan speed with the gigabyte software. This is alright for me, but I would much rather have a solution to control them separately with the fan controller. Does anyone know how I could get it so that I can decreased the RPM on them using the fan controller?

Any other suggestions / improvements would be greatly appreciated! Thank you all so much. Hopefully next year I can make a custom water cooling loop!


----------



## shilka

Your PSU fan is intake not exhaust


----------



## Akima18

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> Your PSU fan is intake not exhaust


Woops, did not know that, thanks =).


----------



## Trestles126

Ok so it's almost done! Picked up a evga supernova 850g2 after reading reviews on the 750nex. Received aquaero 6xt with black faceplate as well as some more fittings. Started leak test tonight and all seems to be going well. Stoked on how it came out. Still need to pick up my ssd's and a HD keyboard and mouse but other than that it's done. Plan on taking better photos with my Nikon when it's finally done. Need to learn how to take them like u pros do!


----------



## aclofty887

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jameschisholm*
> 
> Welcome to the forums fellow Brit! I am considering moving my build into a Luxe (black version) how has it been moving it all in? I hear the watercooling facilities are great for this case, however I'm unsure whether I want to w/c rather I may try a corsair AIO or another brand in the future.
> 
> Nice build!


I can tell you it was a lot easier then the move from the Lexa to the Ostrog lol. Standoffs already in and the mobo sits beautifully. The brilliant thing with the luxe is that I think it is just as good for air cooling as watercooling. Move the fans on top so they are above where the radiator would be mounted and you don't see them in the case, you can move the rear exhaust up and down to tie in the with the cpu cooler plus you could add 2 more fans to the bottom if you so wished. Plus every intake is covered by a dust filter which can easily be removed and cleaned so a win win in my view. I looked at many cases including Corsair and whilst it was touch and go with the Vengence C70 I decided that a smart contemporary piece of kit like the Luxe deserved to be in my collection lol.

AIO would be so easy plus you could also get the NZXT gpu cooler bracket and add an aio for the gpu to either the front or exhaust with relative ease without having the complexities of a custom loop which is driving me a bit mad at the moment lol.


----------



## aclofty887

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trestles126*
> 
> Ok so it's almost done! Picked up a evga supernova 850g2 after reading reviews on the 750nex. Received aquaero 6xt with black faceplate as well as some more fittings. Started leak test tonight and all seems to be going well. Stoked on how it came out. Still need to pick up my ssd's and a HD keyboard and mouse but other than that it's done. Plan on taking better photos with my Nikon when it's finally done. Need to learn how to take them like u pros do!


Wow looks awesome, something similar to what I want to achieve in my case, I just love hard acrylic, it looks so clean.


----------



## Spork13

Looks great Trestles126.
One question though: I see the PSU is mounted with the fan on top. I thought they were meant to go the other way, with the fan drawing cool air from below the case (through the filter).
I guess it doesn't really matter so much in a water cooled beast like yours, I wouldn't want it that way up in my air cooled build though, as it would be inhaling hot air from the bottom GPU.


----------



## Trestles126

Good lookin out it'll make it easier on cable management as well just not look as cool the stickers r deceiving
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spork13*
> 
> Looks great Trestles126.
> One question though: I see the PSU is mounted with the fan on top. I thought they were meant to go the other way, with the fan drawing cool air from below the case (through the filter).
> I guess it doesn't really matter so much in a water cooled beast like yours, I wouldn't want it that way up in my air cooled build though, as it would be inhaling hot air from the bottom GPU.


----------



## Spork13

I think if you flip it over, the sticker on the other side will still be the right way up. Mine is - but in the Pro it's behind a shroud so it doesn't matter.
Love those rigid tubings. If I ever decide to water cool I think I'll go that way. Bit more work, but the result is worth it.


----------



## Pikaru

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spork13*
> 
> Looks great Trestles126.
> One question though: I see the PSU is mounted with the fan on top. I thought they were meant to go the other way, with the fan drawing cool air from below the case (through the filter).
> I guess it doesn't really matter so much in a water cooled beast like yours, I wouldn't want it that way up in my air cooled build though, as it would be inhaling hot air from the bottom GPU.


It could be used as an exhaust to get that hot air being spewed out from the GPU and throw it out the back.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Akima18*
> 
> Hi Everyone, I was wondering if anyone could give me any suggestions / pointers / tips on how I can improve the airflow in my case or anything else that might seem out of place. I'm pretty new to all of this! I wish I could go with a custom water cooling loop, but that will have to wait until my budget is a bit bigger. (Enthoo Pro). (I also posted this in the air cooling forum, I was not sure where it would be more appropriate, I hope that is okay)
> 
> 1) Here is my current airflow setup with my AP-15's, is this optimal or should I change it? (I also have the hard drive bay's removed)
> 
> 
> 
> Is it worth it for me to even have those 2 fan's on the bottom? For some reason they seem to make a much louder noise than the other fan's even when running at the same RPM. It sounds distinctively different from the other fan's, and my guess is maybe it has something to do with the carpet being right below them?
> 
> 2) You can't see it, but I have a 1x PCI-E sound card below the second graphics card on the bottom of the case. I really wish I could move this elsewhere because it really does seem to effect my GPU temperatures. Do you guys think that moving it up to the slot indicated would change anything? Or I guess would it just basically switch the temperatures on the two GPU's?
> 
> 
> 
> 3) I have a possibly defective H220-X cooler that I am looking into getting replaced or fixed. For some reason it seems to be much louder than it should be, but otherwise it basically gives me the same temperatures as my NH-D14. If I remove the NH-D14 and put the H220-X back in, would that make a huge difference? (Since the NH-D14 is so huge, is it "impeding" airflow at all?)
> 
> 4) I was thinking about purchasing the newer NH-D15 cooler. Would I see any noticeable improvements in temperature (or sound levels) compared to my current NH-D14? I am very hesitant to do this though because from looking it up, it seems the NH-D15 is 5mm thicker and that 5mm might interfere with my card in the top PCI-E slot since it is already very very close to it.
> 
> 5) At first, I had the AP-15 fan's connected to a Sentry Mix 2 fan controller (It has 6 channels with 30 Watts). The problem I had with this, was that at even the lowest possible settings, the fan's seemed to be very very loud. Does anyone know what the reason for this might be? Afterwards, I connected all of them to the fan hub that came with the Phanteks Pro case which I then connected to the CPU header on my motherboard, which allows me to control the fan speed with the gigabyte software. This is alright for me, but I would much rather have a solution to control them separately with the fan controller. Does anyone know how I could get it so that I can decreased the RPM on them using the fan controller?
> 
> Any other suggestions / improvements would be greatly appreciated! Thank you all so much. Hopefully next year I can make a custom water cooling loop!


Hi and welcome to the group.
Nice looking build.









Most here are H2O but there are still a few of us air-heads.









Try raising your case up with some 25mm square blocks under it's feet and see if that quiets the bottom fans down. I don't have a Pro or Luxe, but on most cases it helps increase airflow and quiets things down.

Could you move the top GPU down and put the audio card in top slot? I don't know which slots are x8 and which are x16. Try the 2 front most top vents as intakes with the back one unplugged and remove all unused PCIe slot covers to improve airflow front to back around your GPUs. It takes lots of trial and error to get best cooling. Link in my sig about case cooling might be helpful.

NH-D14 isn't impeding airflow, but H220-X is a better cooler. Not a huge difference, but it is a little better.


Changing the fans on NH-D14 usually give better cooling.

NH-D15 is not all that much better .. definitely not enough to warrant the added cost.

What are your temps now?
Without knowing your temps and fan speeds it's kinda hard to give good suggestions.


----------



## shremi

Guys i have a question maybe someone can help me out here..... i will be starting my primo build this week and i want to know how can i manage to control the fans using the PWM fan that comes with the case ....

My configuration would be as this :
420mm nexxos xt45 with p/p fans already have some one the way with white LEDs
360mm RX360 with Ap15 in p/p
240mm UT60 with Ap 15 p/p

So i need to control a total of 16 fans i would like for them to be integrated into 1 channel per radiator ... is this possible ??? If not i will buy a fan controller but as i said i would like to control each radiator on 1 channel what do you guys recommend me to do ???

Thanks

Shremi


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shremi*
> 
> Guys i have a question maybe someone can help me out here..... i will be starting my primo build this week and i want to know how can i manage to control the fans using the PWM fan that comes with the case ....
> 
> My configuration would be as this :
> 420mm nexxos xt45 with p/p fans already have some one the way with white LEDs
> 360mm RX360 with Ap15 in p/p
> 240mm UT60 with Ap 15 p/p
> 
> So i need to control a total of 16 fans i would like for them to be integrated into 1 channel per radiator ... is this possible ??? If not i will buy a fan controller but as i said i would like to control each radiator on 1 channel what do you guys recommend me to do ???
> 
> Thanks
> 
> Shremi


IMHO with that many fans you'd be a LOT better off to use a fan controller instead of the Phanteks hub. That's the only way you are going to control all the fans on each rad on its own separate channel.

Lamptron CW611 is really nice, as are any of the Aquaero 5 or 6 models.


----------



## taem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shremi*
> 
> Guys i have a question maybe someone can help me out here..... i will be starting my primo build this week and i want to know how can i manage to control the fans using the PWM fan that comes with the case ....
> 
> My configuration would be as this :
> 420mm nexxos xt45 with p/p fans already have some one the way with white LEDs
> 360mm RX360 with Ap15 in p/p
> 240mm UT60 with Ap 15 p/p
> 
> So i need to control a total of 16 fans i would like for them to be integrated into 1 channel per radiator ... is this possible ??? If not i will buy a fan controller but as i said i would like to control each radiator on 1 channel what do you guys recommend me to do ???
> 
> Thanks
> 
> Shremi


Edit actually scrap all that...

Don't ap15s have very low amp draw? I don't see a problem putting 4 of them on one header.

So put the 6 ap15s for the 360 on the phanteks hub and connect to CPU header.

Put the 4 ap15s for the 240 on a chassis header via a 4 way 3 pin splitter.

Divide the 6 140mm fans for the 420 among the other chassis headers and set those headers to the same settings. If the 140mm fans for the 420 rad are pwm and you have a pwm chassis header, then use the swiftech 8 way pwm splitter to connect all of them to that one header.


----------



## shremi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *taem*
> 
> The Phanteks pwm hub is rated for 11 fans so you can just plug in all the ap15s into that. Don't know why you'd need separate channel control for the ap15s on the 360 and 240 rads. So if you were willing to set all the ap15s to the same curve...
> 
> The xt45 420 fans would have to go elsewhere. Are the fans you ordered pwm? If so you can use the swiftech 8way pwm splitter. This assumes you have at least 2 pwm headers on your mobo, since the phanteks hub requires a pwm header.
> 
> If only your CPU fan header is pwm, or the fans you ordered are 3 pin, then connect the phanteks hub to the CPU header and split the fans for the 420 among the chassis headers and dc control those. I would not put all 6 fans for the xt45 420 on one header! Depending on the watt/amp specs for the fans you're going to use on the 420, you could put 2-3 fans on each chassis header, then use your motherboard fan utility or speedfan and set them to the same curve. Be aware that some fans have insane amp specs and you can't put more than one of them on a single fan header, since mobo fan headers are almost always rated for 1 A.


Thanks for the answer the fans that i ordered were the phanteks ones with white LEDs so i think they are 3 pin only .... My motherboard is the Asus x99 Deluxe which all of the fan connectors are pwm.... I wanted to go either software or hardware level control i don't want to make a mix of both ..

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> IMHO with that many fans you'd be a LOT better off to use a fan controller instead of the Phanteks hub. That's the only way you are going to control all the fans on each rad on its own separate channel.
> 
> Lamptron CW611 is really nice, as are any of the Aquaero 5 or 6 models.


Thanks for that i will then go with a controller for all of my fans and use software to control my pumps i actually wanted to to both via hardware but the aquaero 6 seems out of my price range i will go with the phobya fan controller and use this to control the 6 fans on each radiator plus i can have some more room for light controll i just hope that the cable can control all of the 6 fans the last time i used a splitter i was getting really weird issues hopefully it was the cable--


----------



## Ghostrider5666

Here is my Enthoo Pro. I'm hoping to move the XSPC EX240 to the front and getting an XSPC EX360 or Alphacool NexXxoS ST30 for the top.


----------



## taem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shremi*
> 
> Thanks for the answer the fans that i ordered were the phanteks ones with white LEDs so i think they are 3 pin only .... My motherboard is the Asus x99 Deluxe which all of the fan connectors are pwm.... I wanted to go either software or hardware level control i don't want to make a mix of both ..
> Thanks for that i will then go with a controller for all of my fans and use software to control my pumps i actually wanted to to both via hardware but the aquaero 6 seems out of my price range i will go with the phobya fan controller and use this to control the 6 fans on each radiator plus i can have some more room for light controll i just hope that the cable can control all of the 6 fans the last time i used a splitter i was getting really weird issues hopefully it was the cable--


That board has got 4 chassis headers, and all headers can do either pwm or 3 pin dc. So you can control all your fans via Fan Xpert if you use a combination of the hub and 3 pin splitters.

But if you're willing to shell out a little money I'd get a pair of extra phanteks fan hubs. Only $20. http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811984004&nm_mc=KNC-GoogleAdwords-PC&cm_mmc=KNC-GoogleAdwords-PC-_-pla-_-Case+Accessories-_-N82E16811984004&gclid=CNbX2t33zcECFZNbfgodSg8A2g. Now you can control each set of fans for each rad via Fan Xpert, and have a different curve for each rad like you want, without a clunky heat generating bay device you have to fiddle with. Especially since you already have some light control built in to the Primo.


----------



## aclofty887

Ok so as some of you might have seen my Luxe aircooled is keeping me happy for now. Now the plan is to go WC. I have started off proceedings with going for a Phobya Balancer 150 reservoir in black nickel.

I am planning on mounting a 360 in the top with a 120 on the rear and leaving the front alone for now. I apologise for the use of paint but it's all I have at work. I have to work out where the tubing is going to go.



Firstly I am not too fussed about noise so mid RPMs will be fine, radiator wise I am probably going for XSPC EX 360, 120. Am I right in thinking that the equivalent of 4*120mm Rads is enough? The 2500K will be running at 4.5Ghz no higher and with the 7950 mildly over clocked 325W is probably the combined TDP for the 2 items I'm cooling.

Next the order, bearing in mind that it will be solid tubing, I am thinking having the reservoir (blue) go into the pump(red) then straight up to the main radiator(yellow) then the CPU (green) and the second radiator (yellow) then Gpu (purple) and back to the reservoir. From what I have read, as long as the pump is after the reservoir the rest won't net me too big a gain in their positions. The tubing from the reservoir to the pump will have a T piece going to a blocking cap which can be opened to drain the system.

Rigid tubing will be Primiacools White acrylic and hopefully chrome fittings. I would like blue to match mbo but since this will be removed for Skylake this may not stay and I don't want to go out and drop another £70 on compression fittings lol.

Ideas welcome.


----------



## WeirdHarold

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aclofty887*
> 
> Ok so as some of you might have seen my Luxe aircooled is keeping me happy for now. Now the plan is to go WC. I have started off proceedings with going for a Phobya Balancer 150 reservoir in black nickel.
> 
> I am planning on mounting a 360 in the top with a 120 on the rear and leaving the front alone for now. I apologise for the use of paint but it's all I have at work. I have to work out where the tubing is going to go.
> 
> 
> 
> Firstly I am not too fussed about noise so mid RPMs will be fine, radiator wise I am probably going for XSPC EX 360, 120. Am I right in thinking that the equivalent of 4*120mm Rads is enough? The 2500K will be running at 4.5Ghz no higher and with the 7950 mildly over clocked 325W is probably the combined TDP for the 2 items I'm cooling.
> 
> Next the order, bearing in mind that it will be solid tubing, I am thinking having the reservoir (blue) go into the pump(red) then straight up to the main radiator(yellow) then the CPU (green) and the second radiator (yellow) then Gpu (purple) and back to the reservoir. From what I have read, as long as the pump is after the reservoir the rest won't net me too big a gain in their positions. The tubing from the reservoir to the pump will have a T piece going to a blocking cap which can be opened to drain the system.
> 
> Rigid tubing will be Primiacools White acrylic and hopefully chrome fittings. I would like blue to match mbo but since this will be removed for Skylake this may not stay and I don't want to go out and drop another £70 on compression fittings lol.
> 
> Ideas welcome.


Well, it sounds to me like you've done your research! The loop order is the exact one that I'm currently using in my 800D except I'm using a Pump/Bay Res combo, so far it's working really well. I have a feeling your loop with the rigid tubing will look awesome


----------



## Blackops_2

Best case for the money ever?


----------



## Trestles126

When adding the luxe phanteks led strips is there anyway to trick them into having the outside one color and the inside a different? Or hook them to a aquaero6


----------



## jameschisholm

Couldn't you just have the outside ones setup as normal and have the extra led strip hooked up to a normal header?


----------



## firefoxx04

Hey guys, its been a while.

I am planning on installing a triple 140mm rad in the roof of my Pro. I plan on using the Phanteks fans (30mm thickness?) along with an Alphacool XT45. Will a total thickness of 75mm (rad + fan) clear? From my quick measurements, that is just barely enough clearance to clear the ram slots on my board (and even more clearance from the ram dimms themselves)

I guess I answered my own question. I guess I would like to know if a 45mm thick rad in the top is common for the Pro

Thanks!


----------



## P1nPo1nt

Will be going water-cooling once I settle on a 970 that I like, here are some pics of my Enthoo Luxe


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *firefoxx04*
> 
> Hey guys, its been a while.
> 
> I am planning on installing a triple 140mm rad in the roof of my Pro. I plan on using the Phanteks fans (30mm thickness?) along with an Alphacool XT45. Will a total thickness of 75mm (rad + fan) clear? From my quick measurements, that is just barely enough clearance to clear the ram slots on my board (and even more clearance from the ram dimms themselves)
> 
> I guess I answered my own question. I guess I would like to know if a 45mm thick rad in the top is common for the Pro
> 
> Thanks!


Phanteks fans are 25mm thick, I've yet to see anyone be able to fit a 45mm thick rad in the Pro. There's 65mm of room from the top of the case to the top of the mobo, leaving 40mm for a rad and 25mm for fans. I suppose it might work with some mobos out there but there's hardly any offset so you'd have to have nothing along the top of the mobo that the rad and fans would interfere with.

Somewhere back in this thread there's posts from DaveLT saying after he couldn't fit his 45mm rad in his Pro he was going to mount the fans on top of the case to make it work. IIRC he was the very first person to post here that he had the case already and was pretty disappointed that a 45mm thick rad wouldn't fit. If he did wind up mounting fans on top I don't recall seeing any pics of it afterward though.


----------



## firefoxx04

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Phanteks fans are 25mm thick, I've yet to see anyone be able to fit a 45mm thick rad in the Pro. There's 65mm of room from the top of the case to the top of the mobo, leaving 40mm for a rad and 25mm for fans. I suppose it might work with some mobos out there but there's hardly any offset so you'd have to have nothing along the top of the mobo that the rad and fans would interfere with.
> 
> Somewhere back in this thread there's posts from DaveLT saying after he couldn't fit his 45mm rad in his Pro he was going to mount the fans on top of the case to make it work. IIRC he was the very first person to post here that he had the case already and was pretty disappointed that a 45mm thick rad wouldn't fit. If he did wind up mounting fans on top I don't recall seeing any pics of it afterward though.


After looking closer, it looks like my CPU 4pin header is just north of the ram slots and would be in the way









Mounting on top of the case works but it is kind of silly because you have to ditch the top cover unless you mod the cover by removing the grill and honey comb from it. Unfortunately it is all one piece molded together unlike the front panel. I actually have the top removed right now. 240mm rad mounted on top of the case with 2 140mm fans on the inside. The 140mm fans outperform the 120mm fans that I did have but at the cost of mounting the rad externally until I can get a proper 140mm rad and install it internally.

I suppose a 35-40mm rad is not the end of the world. I just want to make sure I am getting the biggest rad that will fit considering I am doing nothing else with that space.

This would be my second choice, for the price. http://www.frozencpu.com/products/15078/ex-rad-356/XSPC_EX420_Triple_140mm_Low_Profile_Split_Fin_Radiator.html?tl=g30c95s931#blank


----------



## Jeemil89

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aclofty887*
> 
> Ok so as some of you might have seen my Luxe aircooled is keeping me happy for now. Now the plan is to go WC. I have started off proceedings with going for a Phobya Balancer 150 reservoir in black nickel.
> 
> I am planning on mounting a 360 in the top with a 120 on the rear and leaving the front alone for now. I apologise for the use of paint but it's all I have at work. I have to work out where the tubing is going to go.
> 
> 
> 
> Firstly I am not too fussed about noise so mid RPMs will be fine, radiator wise I am probably going for XSPC EX 360, 120. Am I right in thinking that the equivalent of 4*120mm Rads is enough? The 2500K will be running at 4.5Ghz no higher and with the 7950 mildly over clocked 325W is probably the combined TDP for the 2 items I'm cooling.
> 
> Next the order, bearing in mind that it will be solid tubing, I am thinking having the reservoir (blue) go into the pump(red) then straight up to the main radiator(yellow) then the CPU (green) and the second radiator (yellow) then Gpu (purple) and back to the reservoir. From what I have read, as long as the pump is after the reservoir the rest won't net me too big a gain in their positions. The tubing from the reservoir to the pump will have a T piece going to a blocking cap which can be opened to drain the system.
> 
> Rigid tubing will be Primiacools White acrylic and hopefully chrome fittings. I would like blue to match mbo but since this will be removed for Skylake this may not stay and I don't want to go out and drop another £70 on compression fittings lol.
> 
> Ideas welcome.


I would mount the reservoir above the pump behind the cover panel, if you have room. Use a male to male fitting or get a pump res combo. It would make the tubing a little cleaner and shorter.


----------



## aclofty887

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeemil89*
> 
> I would mount the reservoir above the pump behind the cover panel, if you have room. Use a male to male fitting or get a pump res combo. It would make the tubing a little cleaner and shorter.


Thanks for the suggestion, I was hoping to mount it on the res bracket between the cover panel and the gpu but I have 70mm clearance in total so it's going to be close so I decided it should work the way I have done it on the photo, I will try it the other way when it arrives, I am crossing my fingers lol. Whilst I haven't spent a lot on the res (£25 thanks Amazon) I could use a male to male to connect the 2 and keep it out of sight since I have removed the bottom cage, unfortunately I still need HDDs and I won't have enough space to drop them in the optical bays otherwise I would have stripped both HDD bays and shoved a 240 in for good measure, this will be the Skylake project.

I have also decided to go a little mad with my radiators, I have ordered a XSPC AX360 in silver with the exposed copper core. OCUK were doing them for £47 + delivery, the only frustrating thing is the single 120 also costing the same as the triple! I hope to have some unboxing photos soon.

Another question for anyone, if I am going to be using pulling fans does anyone see any issue attaching the radiator to the top of the case and then mounting the fans in the top beneath the mesh? By doing this I give myself more space for pipes and cables. I should have a 2mm gasket coming with the radiator as well which I am thinking of using between the radiator and the case. If I am using pulling fans do I still want static Pressure fans? I know static pressure is used pushing through a rad but would they also be drawing air through a lot stronger?

I hope to be getting the EK 7950 GPU block and back plate in December, and then getting the other units bit by bit.

I'm looking forward to asking members of my family for stuff like a D5 acrylic top or Primochill Revolver compression fittings and getting asked what they are lol.

I'm even sad enough to give the project a name - "Snowstorm" . With Skylake being Blizzard lol.

I'm such a geek, lol

Thanks again for the help everyone


----------



## Jeemil89

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aclofty887*
> 
> Thanks for the suggestion, I was hoping to mount it on the res bracket between the cover panel and the gpu but I have 70mm clearance in total so it's going to be close so I decided it should work the way I have done it on the photo, I will try it the other way when it arrives, I am crossing my fingers lol. Whilst I haven't spent a lot on the res (£25 thanks Amazon) I could use a male to male to connect the 2 and keep it out of sight since I have removed the bottom cage, unfortunately I still need HDDs and I won't have enough space to drop them in the optical bays otherwise I would have stripped both HDD bays and shoved a 240 in for good measure, this will be the Skylake project.
> 
> I have also decided to go a little mad with my radiators, I have ordered a XSPC AX360 in silver with the exposed copper core. OCUK were doing them for £47 + delivery, the only frustrating thing is the single 120 also costing the same as the triple! I hope to have some unboxing photos soon.
> 
> Another question for anyone, if I am going to be using pulling fans does anyone see any issue attaching the radiator to the top of the case and then mounting the fans in the top beneath the mesh? By doing this I give myself more space for pipes and cables. I should have a 2mm gasket coming with the radiator as well which I am thinking of using between the radiator and the case. If I am using pulling fans do I still want static Pressure fans? I know static pressure is used pushing through a rad but would they also be drawing air through a lot stronger?
> 
> I hope to be getting the EK 7950 GPU block and back plate in December, and then getting the other units bit by bit.
> 
> I'm looking forward to asking members of my family for stuff like a D5 acrylic top or Primochill Revolver compression fittings and getting asked what they are lol.
> 
> I'm even sad enough to give the project a name - "Snowstorm" . With Skylake being Blizzard lol.
> 
> I'm such a geek, lol
> 
> Thanks again for the help everyone


Yes, you should mount the fans in the top compartment of the Luxe to get more room in the case, also this allows you to do push-pull later. You will always want high static pressure fans for radiators and other restrictive environments, when in push and pull.


----------



## ottoore

I'd like to use an external radiator with one of these cases.

i don't see any hole for tubes but there are these split .




Use?


----------



## Pikaru

Internal or external res mount that you could use the res brackets with.


----------



## colinmcr

Does anyone know of anyone fitting a dual cpu build in an Enthoo Primo?

I just bought and Asus Z10PE-D8-WS motherboard and wanna upgrade my Primo Midas build for some more Folding.

Just wondering how much of a squeeze it'll be, will be WC both CPU.


----------



## Jeemil89

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ottoore*
> 
> I'd like to use an external radiator with one of these cases.
> 
> i don't see any hole for tubes but there are these split .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Use?


Why do you want to use an external radiator, if I may ask? The Primo has plenty of radiator space.


----------



## ottoore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeemil89*
> 
> Why do you want to use an external radiator, if I may ask? The Primo has plenty of radiator space.


I like enthoo design but i prefer ext rad ( performance and comfort).

Obviously my first choise would have been enthoo pro if it have had the holes.


----------



## aclofty887

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeemil89*
> 
> Yes, you should mount the fans in the top compartment of the Luxe to get more room in the case, also this allows you to do push-pull later. You will always want high static pressure fans for radiators and other restrictive environments, when in push and pull.


Thanks, I was going to try and avoid Push/Pull to begin with due to the aesthetics of the exposed copper but if needs be in the future there is always that option as you mention.


----------



## ljreyl

Hello everyone. I'm thinking of getting the Enthoo Pro/Luxe and I have a question. Does anyone know if a 240mm radiator can be mounted to the bottom with a huge power supply like a AX1200i/AX1500i?

That's pretty much my deal breaker. I have a corsair 750D right now with a 240 mounted at the front, but I want it mounted on the bottom which won't fit due to my PSU being too large. I'm hoping the Luxe/Pro can accommodate both a large PSU and a 240mm radiator.


----------



## kush621

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aclofty887*
> 
> Ok so as some of you might have seen my Luxe aircooled is keeping me happy for now. Now the plan is to go WC. I have started off proceedings with going for a Phobya Balancer 150 reservoir in black nickel.
> 
> I am planning on mounting a 360 in the top with a 120 on the rear and leaving the front alone for now. I apologise for the use of paint but it's all I have at work. I have to work out where the tubing is going to go.
> 
> 
> 
> Firstly I am not too fussed about noise so mid RPMs will be fine, radiator wise I am probably going for XSPC EX 360, 120. Am I right in thinking that the equivalent of 4*120mm Rads is enough? The 2500K will be running at 4.5Ghz no higher and with the 7950 mildly over clocked 325W is probably the combined TDP for the 2 items I'm cooling.
> 
> Next the order, bearing in mind that it will be solid tubing, I am thinking having the reservoir (blue) go into the pump(red) then straight up to the main radiator(yellow) then the CPU (green) and the second radiator (yellow) then Gpu (purple) and back to the reservoir. From what I have read, as long as the pump is after the reservoir the rest won't net me too big a gain in their positions. The tubing from the reservoir to the pump will have a T piece going to a blocking cap which can be opened to drain the system.
> 
> Rigid tubing will be Primiacools White acrylic and hopefully chrome fittings. I would like blue to match mbo but since this will be removed for Skylake this may not stay and I don't want to go out and drop another £70 on compression fittings lol.
> 
> Ideas welcome.


You're going to have some issues mounting the res there in the back. I tired to do it and it was a no go. The mounts for the res don't line up too well with the back of the case, adn if you use a larger graphics card it may be too wide to even fir the res in that spot. That was my issue with the 160.. FrozenQ res and the Luxe. I ended up using the included res mount and mounting the res on the back of the drive cages.


----------



## Trestles126

Sad the build is coming to a end ?! Have had a lot of fun. Can't thank everyone enough.still have a lot or figuring out to do so I'm
Sure there will be more questions. I'm not 100 percent satisfied with the luxe case after seeing all the caselabs builds and honestly I have a new itch to transfer it all over with possibly a ram block and one more gpu into a caselabs white Mercury 8 like the hurricane build







but that should wait till after the holidays!

Here's the phanteks led installed not to sure if I'm gonna keep it as I like red outside and white inside. And the led plug on the Aqua res pretty much does nothing :/


----------



## Trestles126

And for those asking about res placement I mounted my ek140/d5 res right here after many attempts to place it elsewhere. Fit the best and made the most sense since it's one of the nicer pieces in the case and wanted it visible. I made use of one hole already on the mobo and then made a small lil wedge that slid one of the phanteks cable tie slits to secure the other side. It's super sturdy and clean looking and uses the ek res mount.

Clears the gtx 780ti, and the lower psu cover


----------



## Trestles126

Another.


----------



## Trestles126

Mounting


----------



## aclofty887

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trestles126*
> 
> Another.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kush621*
> 
> You're going to have some issues mounting the res there in the back. I tired to do it and it was a no go. The mounts for the res don't line up too well with the back of the case, adn if you use a larger graphics card it may be too wide to even fir the res in that spot. That was my issue with the 160.. FrozenQ res and the Luxe. I ended up using the included res mount and mounting the res on the back of the drive cages.


This is what I wanted so will try when res arrives, certainly takes pride of place, just the bastard gpu, I have a friend who has a 780 and I think the 7950 is longer. Let's hope it fits lol


----------



## Trestles126

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aclofty887*
> 
> This is what I wanted so will try when res arrives, certainly takes pride of place, just the bastard gpu, I have a friend who has a 780 and I think the 7950 is longer. Let's hope it fits lol


With a bit if testing im sure it'll fit there the 7950 is 10.63 long the 780s are the same(note all manufacures seem to be a bit off in measurements)


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ljreyl*
> 
> Hello everyone. I'm thinking of getting the Enthoo Pro/Luxe and I have a question. Does anyone know if a 240mm radiator can be mounted to the bottom with a huge power supply like a AX1200i/AX1500i?
> 
> That's pretty much my deal breaker. I have a corsair 750D right now with a 240 mounted at the front, but I want it mounted on the bottom which won't fit due to my PSU being too large. I'm hoping the Luxe/Pro can accommodate both a large PSU and a 240mm radiator.


the amount of space is nearly identical to the 750D so I'm thinking no.


----------



## Trestles126

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ljreyl*
> 
> Hello everyone. I'm thinking of getting the Enthoo Pro/Luxe and I have a question. Does anyone know if a 240mm radiator can be mounted to the bottom with a huge power supply like a AX1200i/AX1500i?
> 
> That's pretty much my deal breaker. I have a corsair 750D right now with a 240 mounted at the front, but I want it mounted on the bottom which won't fit due to my PSU being too large. I'm hoping the Luxe/Pro can accommodate both a large PSU and a 240mm radiator.


My 850g2 evga barely fits with the 240 up front


----------



## ljreyl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PureBlackFire*
> 
> the amount of space is nearly identical to the 750D so I'm thinking no.


Boo!!! I guess I have an excuse to get a Primo then lol...


----------



## Pikaru

Primo master race

But seriously, you'll love all the space inside a Primo. You'll have enough space to put a 480mm at the bottom and still fit your PSU! In the back anyway.


----------



## Pierre3400

Couple of progress pictures of my X99 build.




I am missing (coming next week) a few black 90 degree bends. Once i get those, the loop is complete and leak testing and cleaning of the loop starts.









From then on, its all wires wires wires, and on the front, im only missing white paracord that should arrive in less than 2 weeks.


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blackops_2*
> 
> Best case for the money ever?


Is that the pro and how did you mount the hdd


----------



## aclofty887

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pierre3400*
> 
> Couple of progress pictures of my X99 build.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I am missing (coming next week) a few black 90 degree bends. Once i get those, the loop is complete and leak testing and cleaning of the loop starts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> From then on, its all wires wires wires, and on the front, im only missing white paracord that should arrive in less than 2 weeks.


nice


----------



## PureBlackFire

check out the new MP fans from Phanteks


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PureBlackFire*
> 
> check out the new MP fans from Phanteks


Damn, those look fantastic. Might have to buy those for my radiators. I am also really interested in the new Cooler Master Silencio Fans.


----------



## shremi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PureBlackFire*
> 
> check out the new MP fans from Phanteks


Of course after i ordered 6 of them last week







are they available to order i might be able to return mines


----------



## taem

Found a great bay adapter to mount 3.5" hdds: Akasa Cagestor. http://www.frozencpu.com/products/18273/cpa-627/Akasa_Cagestor_C31_Triple_525_Drive_Bay_to_Quad_35_HDD_Expansion_Kit_AK-HDA-07.html

I made a post about it in the hard drive sub forum, but relevant to the Enthoo Primo, fits perfectly, just slides in and the tool less clasps latch it into place. Does not move at all. If you need to take it out, that's not hard either, just a bit of force from the back. Sufficient space between drives for airflow. Generally speaking I'm not convinced a fan is needed for hdds but with 4 of them this close to one another I do want a fan and this is enough of a gap between them for cooling.





Stock fan isn't so great, but the mount is as simple as can be, it's just a cage with 120mm fan mount holes in front, so swaps are easy and can be done while cage is mounted inside case. Fan Xpert specs the fan as follows:



I needed 7 hdd mounts and I was holding off on choosing a 360 or 480 rad for the bottom until I was sure I could fine a bay adapter I like, and this is it, now I can mount the 480 on the bottom and use this cage plus the upper 3-bay hdd cage of the Primo.

This thing is only $16.99!! One of the best deals I've ever seen on a pc part. The Cooler Master 4-in-3 costs more than twice as much and is crap. Even the 2 bay Evercool Armor costs a lot more than this. Heck it's the price of a pair of single drive adapters.


----------



## firefoxx04

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PureBlackFire*
> 
> check out the new MP fans from Phanteks


Would love to see some reviews









The White that Phanteks uses looks really good imo and is the main reason I use them over a lot of other fans, especially for the price. I hope these carry the same great price that their previous fans had.


----------



## Faster_is_better

Is the special edition Primo any different than the other besides color scheme? Did they update anything on it?

It would have been great if they offered the case with more color choices painted like the SE, it looks really good and is nice to differentiate from the typical black on black.


----------



## Cloudy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *taem*
> 
> Found a great bay adapter to mount 3.5" hdds: Akasa Cagestor. http://www.frozencpu.com/products/18273/cpa-627/Akasa_Cagestor_C31_Triple_525_Drive_Bay_to_Quad_35_HDD_Expansion_Kit_AK-HDA-07.html
> 
> I made a post about it in the hard drive sub forum, but relevant to the Enthoo Primo, fits perfectly, just slides in and the tool less clasps latch it into place. Does not move at all. If you need to take it out, that's not hard either, just a bit of force from the back. Sufficient space between drives for airflow. Generally speaking I'm not convinced a fan is needed for hdds but with 4 of them this close to one another I do want a fan and this is enough of a gap between them for cooling.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Stock fan isn't so great, but the mount is as simple as can be, it's just a cage with 120mm fan mount holes in front, so swaps are easy and can be done while cage is mounted inside case. Fan Xpert specs the fan as follows:
> 
> 
> 
> I needed 7 hdd mounts and I was holding off on choosing a 360 or 480 rad for the bottom until I was sure I could fine a bay adapter I like, and this is it, now I can mount the 480 on the bottom and use this cage plus the upper 3-bay hdd cage of the Primo.
> 
> This thing is only $16.99!! One of the best deals I've ever seen on a pc part. The Cooler Master 4-in-3 costs more than twice as much and is crap. Even the 2 bay Evercool Armor costs a lot more than this. Heck it's the price of a pair of single drive adapters.


Little did you know you answered a very old question for me. I was super worried the Akasa would fit awkwardly in the Primo; definitely picking one up now.


----------



## Pierre3400

Out of no where, I just need to stick my finger in the air, and give some positive feedback to Phanteks.

I contacted them, about a few pieces for my case, one of which was a cable (that i cannot find anywhere to buy)

That cable is now being sent to my, no questions asked, and free of charge! That service cannot be beaten!


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Faster_is_better*
> 
> Is the special edition Primo any different than the other besides color scheme? Did they update anything on it?
> 
> It would have been great if they offered the case with more color choices painted like the SE, it looks really good and is nice to differentiate from the typical black on black.


The only change is the color AFAIK. The Black & Orange is the only one I've seen available so far in the US, either from Phanteksusa or from Newegg, but CaseKing, one of Phanteks distributors in the EU, has had their own special edition Primo from Phanteks that's Black & Gold.

http://www.caseking.de/shop/catalog/PHANTEKS-Enthoo-Primo-Big-Tower-schwarz-gold::29465.html



And according to this post there was also supposed to be a Black and White and a Black and Red editions (though I heard from Phanteks they were still kicking those ideas around incl a White and Red).


----------



## Blackops_2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aclofty887*
> 
> nice


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Is that the pro and how did you mount the hdd


Just used one set screw and held it on sideways to the front intake grille. I have a better pic in my build log.


----------



## SouthernStyle

Hey guys, I'm about to order an Enthoo Luxe, but have a couple questions first. Any help or info is much appreciated.

1. I have a Seasonic X850 PSU (6.3" long). Is there room at the bottom for a 240 Rad? Right now I have Alphacool XT45 in P/P in the bottom of my 690II Adv. and it _just_ fits(the cables are extremely tight going into my PSU. I will be adding a second 290 to my PC when I move into the new case also, so that's 2 addiditional 8 pin PCI-E cables. Just wondering what kind of room to expect to work with in the bottom.

2. I highly doubt there's a lot of difference in performance, but what would you guys recommend for a 360 rad in the top?
A) Alphacool ST30 in push/pull.

B) Alphacool XT45 in just pull

(Both would be as exhaust)

3. I have two Vapor-X 290s. Do you guys think it will be possible to mount an XSPC Photon 170 res/pump in the provided mounting locations at the back of the case or on the back of the HD cage?

Again, thanks for any info you can provide.


----------



## taem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SouthernStyle*
> 
> I will be adding a second 290 to my PC when I move into the new case also, so that's *2 addiditional 6 pin PCI-E cables*... I have two Vapor-X 290s.


Doesn't the Vapor X use 2 x 8 pin power?


----------



## SouthernStyle

Yes, that it does lol.


----------



## taem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SouthernStyle*
> 
> Yes, that it does lol.


As a side note, what blocks you using on those vapor x's? I'm in the market for a second 290. I'm glad I returned the Tri-X back in the day for $550 since they're under $300 now lol. I'd love to have another Powercolor PCS+ 290 because the one I have is stellar. But Powercolor changed the pcb and kept the same model name and number so blocks will no longer fit.

The MSI Gaming is under $250 now and the best deal, and EK has a block for it. Tri-X is reference so I could use Aquacomputer Kryographics with AC backplate which according to stren is the best wc setup for a 290. The lightning 290x is under $400 now though and I'm awfully tempted, though of course it would be mated to a reference 290 which probably makes that pointless.

But the Vapor X has better components than the reference or MSI so maybe that would be the best option if I could find a good block for it. My Powercolor is pretty good, hits 1200/1675 on air even with the elpida, but vrm runs at over 90c so I don't go over 1170 for now. I would like to get a 290 that can match my Powercolor and I'm wondering what the best route would be.


----------



## SouthernStyle

I don't plan to watercool the cards. As far as I know, no one makes a block for the vapor-x 290. EK makes a block for the vapor-x 290X but specifically states it doesn't work on the 290.


----------



## Faster_is_better

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Faster_is_better*
> 
> Is the special edition Primo any different than the other besides color scheme? Did they update anything on it?
> 
> It would have been great if they offered the case with more color choices painted like the SE, it looks really good and is nice to differentiate from the typical black on black.
> 
> 
> 
> The only change is the color AFAIK. The Black & Orange is the only one I've seen available so far in the US, either from Phanteksusa or from Newegg, but CaseKing, one of Phanteks distributors in the EU, has had their own special edition Primo from Phanteks that's Black & Gold.
> 
> http://www.caseking.de/shop/catalog/PHANTEKS-Enthoo-Primo-Big-Tower-schwarz-gold::29465.html
> 
> 
> 
> And according to this post there was also supposed to be a Black and White and a Black and Red editions (though I heard from Phanteks they were still kicking those ideas around incl a White and Red).
Click to expand...

2 tones look so good









Was that post literally today about the multiple colors going to be offered?


----------



## Phantatsy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Faster_is_better*
> 
> 2 tones look so good
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Was that post literally today about the multiple colors going to be offered?


I've seen it a few months back. Phanteks never gave me any good information about them, though.


----------



## Tweetbix

Out of curiosity, can anyone confirm that the Primo SE has a brushed exterior like the normal primo?

Looking at pictures of them it seems the SE has a different exterior texture but can't quite tell.
The specs says the SE has brushed aluminium but it doesn't appear to.

Cheers for anyone that is able to answer this, I have a thing against brushed aluminium, absolute pr*ck to keep clean.


----------



## Phantatsy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tweetbix*
> 
> Out of curiosity, can anyone confirm that the Primo SE has a brushed exterior like the normal primo?
> 
> Looking at pictures of them it seems the SE has a different exterior texture but can't quite tell.
> The specs says the SE has brushed aluminium but it doesn't appear to.
> 
> Cheers for anyone that is able to answer this, I have a thing against brushed aluminium, absolute pr*ck to keep clean.


Fairly certain that it doesn't. It was one of the reasons I was going to wait for the SE to come out so I could get a black/white one without the brushed aluminum finish.


----------



## WeirdHarold

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phantatsy*
> 
> I've seen it a few months back. Phanteks never gave me any good information about them, though.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tweetbix*
> 
> Out of curiosity, can anyone confirm that the Primo SE has a brushed exterior like the normal primo?
> 
> Looking at pictures of them it seems the SE has a different exterior texture but can't quite tell.
> The specs says the SE has brushed aluminium but it doesn't appear to.
> 
> Cheers for anyone that is able to answer this, I have a thing against brushed aluminium, absolute pr*ck to keep clean.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phantatsy*
> 
> Fairly certain that it doesn't. It was one of the reasons I was going to wait for the SE to come out so I could get a black/white one without the brushed aluminum finish.


Don't know if this helps any of you but I noticed this on newegg the other day and it appears to be the black and orange SE

*Enthoo Primo SE at Newegg*


----------



## Tweetbix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phantatsy*
> 
> Fairly certain that it doesn't. It was one of the reasons I was going to wait for the SE to come out so I could get a black/white one without the brushed aluminum finish.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WeirdHarold*
> 
> Don't know if this helps any of you but I noticed this on newegg the other day and it appears to be the black and orange SE
> *Enthoo Primo SE at Newegg*


Thanks guys for the response.
My local country (Australia) has the primo in all 3 types (White, Black/Aluminium and SE) at PCCG.
Now I just need to decide between the White and SE, hmmm, decisions decisions....


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

I'm nearly certain that the ONLY thing different about the SE Primo versions are the colors. The black and orange and the black and gold CaseKing versions both have the same black brushed aluminum exterior.


----------



## Phantatsy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> I'm nearly certain that the ONLY thing different about the SE Primo versions are the colors. The black and orange and the black and gold CaseKing versions both have the same black brushed aluminum exterior.


The exterior IS aluminum, but does not appear to be BRUSHED aluminum.
http://www.phanteksusa.com/products/phanteks-enthoo-primo-special-edition

If that's the case, I'm so ordering the extra pieces from Phanteks to remove the brushed aluminum. (Unless I can powder coat it instead)


----------



## benbenkr

Got my Luxe yesterday. Moved my rig into the new Luxe.

Was happy with the quality of the case throughout... until I tried to power it on. It powered on fine, but the ambient LEDs were not working no matter what I did.
Tried checking the 12v SATA connector to see if it's damaged and it isn't. Checked to see if my SATA power connector is damaged, of course it isn't because I'm using the same cable to power the PWM hub. Checked the LED cables and connectors, again they weren't damaged.

At one point I was starting to get frustrated as I couldn't pin down the problem, until I tried to reconnect every single LED connector. Lo' and behold, some idiot at Phanteks factory actually swapped the SATA power connector that is connected to the front bay, it was upside down thus + and - were swapped around. How in the heck can someone get this wrong is beyond me. Wasted my time and it was a rather frustrating experience. LEDs are working fine now.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phantatsy*
> 
> The exterior IS aluminum, but does not appear to be BRUSHED aluminum.
> http://www.phanteksusa.com/products/phanteks-enthoo-primo-special-edition
> 
> If that's the case, I'm so ordering the extra pieces from Phanteks to remove the brushed aluminum. (Unless I can powder coat it instead)


All I know is what Phanteks support has told me. I suggest you ask them yourself, and if you don't believe that over some pics of too low a res for you to be able to tell then by all means go ahead and buy it to find out for sure.


----------



## Phantatsy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> All I know is what Phanteks support has told me. I suggest you ask them yourself, and if you don't believe that over some pics of too low a res for you to be able to tell then by all means go ahead and buy it to find out for sure.


I have no plans on purchasing a special edition as I already own a Primo. I have, however, emailed Phanteks about the brushed finish or not.


----------



## Seid Dark

My Primo is quite loud with five stock fans. Seems that Phanteks fan controller isn't working. No matter what I set in the bios for CPU fan speed it stays at full rpm.









Is there anyone else with similar problem?


----------



## mcnumpty23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seid Dark*
> 
> My Primo is quite loud with five stock fans. Seems that Phanteks fan controller isn't working. No matter what I set in the bios for CPU fan speed it stays at full rpm.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Is there anyone else with similar problem?


did you connect the fan hub controller to a header that definitely does pwm?


----------



## theoblivinator

OMG. First ever working on a water cooling loop for my new PC. Went through several road bumps to get this Aplhacool NexXxos Monsta 480 mm full copper radiator with push/pull fans into the bottom of the case. Most of it was my stupid mistake of forgetting to remove the top HDD cage to give myself more clearance to slide it in there.







But I managed and now I'm all


----------



## taem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *COMBO2*
> 
> Yeah, I've just installed a GTX 780 Ti & with the Photon it's not roomy but nothing's touching and there is space. *With an R9 290X though, forget the bracket, and forget a res there. Nothing will fit.
> 
> ONLY 10.5" cards guys*.


I don't get it. The 290/x pcb is 10.5" isn't it?

I need to know the answer to this before I order a photon, since I have 290s.


----------



## Seid Dark

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mcnumpty23*
> 
> did you connect the fan hub controller to a header that definitely does pwm?


Yes, to CPU FAN 1 connector on motherboard.


----------



## mcnumpty23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seid Dark*
> 
> Yes, to CPU FAN 1 connector on motherboard.


and its a 4 pin cpu fan connector?

are the fans 3 pin fans or 4 pin fans?

if 4 pin fans you need to make sure the sensor wire is the one not connected

and did you connect the power to the hub?

and the 4 pin wire from the hub to the cpu fan to the right connector on the hub?

and does your bios allow the option of voltage or pwm?

sorry for all the questions but its easier to ask them all in one go--even if some of them are a bit obvious

i have 8 fans in my primo and its quieter on idle than my external hard drive when i set a manual fan profile


----------



## VulgarDisplay88

Are you going to add the Evolv to this club?


----------



## icecpu

my Enthoo Luxe power switch sometimes work , sometimes doesn't work. I have to push 3 or 4 times to power on. any one have this problem ?
any phanteks representative here ?


----------



## demps709

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *icecpu*
> 
> my Enthoo Luxe power switch sometimes work , sometimes doesn't work. I have to push 3 or 4 times to power on. any one have this problem ?
> any phanteks representative here ?


Contact them on their support, they answer pretty quickly and are very helpful.

https://www.phanteks.com/requestform.html


----------



## icecpu

ok I just emailed them


----------



## shadow85

Hey guys I want to know if a swiftech h240-x cooler, will fit in the enthoo pro case.

The rest of my system will be, msi x99 gaming 7, msi gtx 980 gaming SLI, corsair ax860.


----------



## Jeemil89

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shadow85*
> 
> Hey guys I want to know if a swiftech h240-x cooler, will fit in the enthoo pro case.
> 
> The rest of my system will be, msi x99 gaming 7, msi gtx 980 gaming SLI, corsair ax860.


Should fit just fine. The radiator is 29mm thick with 25mm fans, so 54mm in total.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shadow85*
> 
> Hey guys I want to know if a swiftech h240-x cooler, will fit in the enthoo pro case.
> 
> The rest of my system will be, msi x99 gaming 7, msi gtx 980 gaming SLI, corsair ax860.


Should look something like this with fans on it inside of case.:

H240-X radiator is indexed to fan in original Phanteks image of Enthoo Luxe.

Or like this in real life. Case top is between radiator and fans.

ciarlatano just tested the H240-X in Enthoo Luxe above.


----------



## demps709

Has anyone mounted a thick 420mm rad in either the Luxe or Pro along with a motherboard with an IO cover? Like the Asus x99 Deluxe? I'm thinking about upgrading fairly soon but it looks like an IO cover would hit the fittings on my rad.


----------



## Trestles126

If say in the luxe ud be ok with the fans up top above chasi, seeing that the pro has no fan support above chasi it'd be hard. What about spinning rad 180 and having fittings up front with 90s off them eat up ur top two bays but would solve fitting clearance
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *demps709*
> 
> Has anyone mounted a thick 420mm rad in either the Luxe or Pro along with a motherboard with an IO cover? Like the Asus x99 Deluxe? I'm thinking about upgrading fairly soon but it looks like an IO cover would hit the fittings on my rad.


Curious if u can use the


----------



## shadow85

Thanks doyll, I like thise pics.

Another question, I havent built a new case for some time. So I was wondering, should I buy some extra case fans, if so how many and where should they be placed?


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shadow85*
> 
> Thanks doyll, I like thise pics.
> 
> Another question, I havent built a new case for some time. So I was wondering, should I buy some extra case fans, if so how many and where should they be placed?


Depends what all you will have in the case. Running the H220-X or H240-X in the top means the 140mm fan case comes with up top can be used in bottom as an intake, so you will probably have enough airflow .. But like I said, depends on other components.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

OK I want to rehash this older series of posts a bit.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TallGray*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> XSPC's new RX480 V3 rads are billed as 130mm wide and if that's the case then no way will they fit. There is not enough room in the Primo. There is only 125mm of space between the panel with the Phanteks logo plate and the PSU cover. A 124mm wide Alphacool just barely fits in there.
> 
> However, the V2 RX480 was 124mm wide and the V1 RX480 was 125mm wide. Either of those will fit.
> 
> 
> 
> You sound pretty sure.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> RX480 V3 in my case right now, measured at 130mm. I didnt say it was easy, but it fits. I had to disassemble the panel with the logo and the top of the case and then reassemble after putting it in. It does go in at a very slight angle and the bottom cable grommet had to be removed. It does fit though
Click to expand...

When I saw this post from TallGray back then I couldn't wrap my head around it. There's no way in hell a 130mm wide 360 or 480 rad could possibly fit in the bottom of my Primo. My 124mm wide Alphacool just barely squeezes in there touching both the PSU shroud and the panel at the same time also requiring me to remove the lower grommet. There's no way possible a rad 5mm wider could fit in my case without buckling the rad and/or side panel.

That got me thinking. Way back when there were rumors posted here in this thread that Phanteks was going to release a V2 version of the Primo, and speculation was that they would make changes to the res bracket to better accommodate longer cards. AFAIK we never did see any evidence of a V2 of the case or any changes made, but now I'm thinking that TallGray's post may be just that. Did Phanteks alter the Primo to have more than 125mm clearance between the PSU shroud and the panel for compatibility with wider rads?

I'm thinking they must have.

That would explain the difference in the manual and why they took out the "_*** 125mm width max_" note on page 26 for 360 and 480 rads in the bottom.

Here is Page 26 of the original manual when the Primo first released (when I bought my Primo):



And here is Page 26 now. Notice they removed the note in the bottom right corner about a max 125mm width:



Sooo, that begs the question: What is the width of the space between the panel and the PSU shroud on cases being sold now? How wide of a rad will fit?


----------



## Faster_is_better

Interesting find, can we get a few Primo owners to chime in and measure their cases, and post when they bought them too?

Also I emailed Phanteks support, they said they have been talking about having other colors, red/black, and white/black editions but no dates or confirmation as to availability.


----------



## taem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> OK I want to rehash this older series of posts a bit.
> When I saw this post from TallGray back then I couldn't wrap my head around it. There's no way in hell a 130mm wide 360 or 480 rad could possibly fit in the bottom of my Primo. My 124mm wide Alphacool just barely squeezes in there touching both the PSU shroud and the panel at the same time also requiring me to remove the lower grommet. There's no way possible a rad 5mm wider could fit in my case without buckling the rad and/or side panel.
> 
> That got me thinking. Way back when there were rumors posted here in this thread that Phanteks was going to release a V2 version of the Primo, and speculation was that they would make changes to the res bracket to better accommodate longer cards. AFAIK we never did see any evidence of a V2 of the case or any changes made, but now I'm thinking that TallGray's post may be just that. Did Phanteks alter the Primo to have more than 125mm clearance between the PSU shroud and the panel for compatibility with wider rads?
> 
> I'm thinking they must have.
> 
> That would explain the difference in the manual and why they took out the "_*** 125mm width max_" note on page 26 for 360 and 480 rads in the bottom.
> 
> Here is Page 26 of the original manual when the Primo first released (when I bought my Primo):
> 
> 
> 
> And here is Page 26 now. Notice they removed the note in the bottom right corner about a max 125mm width:
> 
> 
> 
> Sooo, that begs the question: What is the width of the space between the panel and the PSU shroud on cases being sold now? How wide of a rad will fit?


I have a white primo from amazon ordered just a few weeks ago and I have 126mm there.


----------



## emsj86




----------



## emsj86




----------



## TallGray

I'd measure it for you, but its difficult to get a good measurement now that everything is buttoned up and the radiator is installed.









Like I said before, had to take the case apart for it to go in. I wanted the case itself to look as unmodified as possible (I like the clean look and the challenge) so the toughest part was to fit the metal piece with the phanteks logo back in. I really didnt think it would happen at first, but then everything lined up, snug, but lined up.

If you can suggest an accurate way to measure it, let me know and I will.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

@emsj86
Please use the 'edit this post' button (the pencil icon in the lower left corner) to edit your post if it is the last . most recent post on a thread. I don't know if anyone has told you this before, but it is regarded as very poor netiquette to double and triple post on a thread like you keep doing.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *taem*
> 
> I have a white primo from amazon ordered just a few weeks ago and I have 126mm there.


Thanks for that reply. I think yours is like mine, which I measure right at 125mm. Don't know if that means that yours is a V1 or if all the white versions are V1 or if there never was a V2 modification done on the Primo, but I just can't see how a 130mm wide rad could be made to fit in there without damaging something.

Hopefully others will measure theirs also, especially those that also recently bought the case. It seems odd they would have removed the max 125mm width info from the manual if it still applies.


----------



## aclofty887

Hi everyone

I can confirm that my Phobya 150 res fits on the res bracket by the gpu, just, lol. Now I am going to order the 250 insert since I have space. Makes things a lot tidier potentially, the AX360 looks lovely though appears to have oxidized slightly as it isn't shiny copper though I am not too fussed. I might decide to go down a cheaper route and buy a cheaper rear rad, I did have an issue with paying the same for a 120 rad as I had for the 360.

I'm getting my £10 heat gun this weekend along with some cheap 13/10 clear acrylic to practise plus it might come in handy for the fish tank lol.

I can add some photos of the ax360 rad if anyone wants to see.


----------



## Phantatsy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aclofty887*
> 
> Hi everyone
> 
> I can confirm that my Phobya 150 res fits on the res bracket by the gpu, just, lol. Now I am going to order the 250 insert since I have space. Makes things a lot tidier potentially, the AX360 looks lovely though appears to have oxidized slightly as it isn't shiny copper though I am not too fussed. I might decide to go down a cheaper route and buy a cheaper rear rad, I did have an issue with paying the same for a 120 rad as I had for the 360.
> 
> I'm getting my £10 heat gun this weekend along with some cheap 13/10 clear acrylic to practise plus it might come in handy for the fish tank lol.
> 
> I can add some photos of the ax360 rad if anyone wants to see.


Always down to see pics. Never know when they might come in handy.


----------



## emsj86

Unicronhunter. You mean editing the post to have both pictures under same post?


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Unicronhunter. You mean editing the post to have both pictures under same post?


Definitely.


----------



## emsj86

Will do


----------



## baysta

I'm pretty disappointed with Phanteks' support. I left them two messages and tried calling them because I received a defective Enthoo Primo out of the box, but have yet to receive any type of response from their RMA team (it's been two weeks now, I try to contact them intermittently). So here I am waiting to start my watercooling build, but can't because I need a replacement.

Anyone else have a similar experience, or have any suggestions? Hopefully there's a Phanteks rep here that can help me out.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *baysta*
> 
> I'm pretty disappointed with Phanteks' support. I left them two messages and tried calling them because I received a defective Enthoo Primo out of the box, but have yet to receive any type of response from their RMA team (it's been two weeks now, I try to contact them intermittently). So here I am waiting to start my watercooling build, but can't because I need a replacement.
> 
> Anyone else have a similar experience, or have any suggestions? Hopefully there's a Phanteks rep here that can help me out.


If you are in the US try their chat feature when it is active which is usually during regular US business hours.

http://www.phanteks.com/support.html


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *baysta*
> 
> I'm pretty disappointed with Phanteks' support. I left them two messages and tried calling them because I received a defective Enthoo Primo out of the box, but have yet to receive any type of response from their RMA team (it's been two weeks now, I try to contact them intermittently). So here I am waiting to start my watercooling build, but can't because I need a replacement.
> 
> Anyone else have a similar experience, or have any suggestions? Hopefully there's a Phanteks rep here that can help me out.


Did you buy it direct from Phanteks? Because if you did not buy it directly from Phanteks you should be doing the RMA with whoever sold it to you. They took it out of the box Phanteks sold it in.


----------



## tanzanitium

Does anyone know any other areas to mount a Photon D5 270 Pump/Res inside the Primo besides the two designated area. I was lucky enough to get a 980 Classified. I had to take the reservoir bracket off to fit the Classified. The other area near the the window doesn't fit as well. Last thing I want to do is mount it outside or get a new radiator.


----------



## emsj86

So where does everyone put there led lights and how many. I'm using two 30cm blue leds from icemodZ. One facing down next to my 360 rad and the other one the long panel that holds the hdd cages and optical drive slots. Now the top one I like bc it doesn't show a glare but the side one gives off a slight glare specially in pictures. I tried the bottom but when I look down it's blinding any suggestions i have the enthoo pro


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Did you buy it direct from Phanteks? Because if you did not buy it directly from Phanteks you should be doing the RMA with whoever sold it to you. They took it out of the box Phanteks sold it in.


Like stated before unless you bought it from phanteks go through who you bought it from. Me I went through amazon and they overnighted another one and have me a month to ship the d one back all on there dollar


----------



## Spork13

I just have one 60cm strip along the top of the case on the window side.
Works fine IMO, but I don't have any fancy water cooling gear to show off.
If I were to add more I might put them underneath the case to make it look like a hotted up rice burner.


----------



## Spork13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> So where does everyone put there led lights and how many. I'm using two 30cm blue leds from icemodZ. One facing down next to my 360 rad and the other one the long panel that holds the hdd cages and optical drive slots. Now the top one I like bc it doesn't show a glare but the side one gives off a slight glare specially in pictures. I tried the bottom but when I look down it's blinding any suggestions i have the enthoo pro


I just have one 60cm strip along the top of the case on the window side.
Works fine IMO, but I don't have any fancy water cooling gear to show off.
If I were to add more I might put them underneath the case to make it look like a hotted up rice burner.


----------



## Fantomau

has anyone replaced the window w/ an actual acrylic window?


----------



## Fantomau

My Luxe


----------



## mcnumpty23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *theoblivinator*
> 
> OMG. First ever working on a water cooling loop for my new PC. Went through several road bumps to get this Aplhacool NexXxos Monsta 480 mm full copper radiator with push/pull fans into the bottom of the case. Most of it was my stupid mistake of forgetting to remove the top HDD cage to give myself more clearance to slide it in there.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But I managed and now I'm all


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *theoblivinator*
> 
> OMG. First ever working on a water cooling loop for my new PC. Went through several road bumps to get this Aplhacool NexXxos Monsta 480 mm full copper radiator with push/pull fans into the bottom of the case. Most of it was my stupid mistake of forgetting to remove the top HDD cage to give myself more clearance to slide it in there.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But I managed and now I'm all


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *theoblivinator*
> 
> OMG. First ever working on a water cooling loop for my new PC. Went through several road bumps to get this Aplhacool NexXxos Monsta 480 mm full copper radiator with push/pull fans into the bottom of the case. Most of it was my stupid mistake of forgetting to remove the top HDD cage to give myself more clearance to slide it in there.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But I managed and now I'm all


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *baysta*
> 
> I'm pretty disappointed with Phanteks' support. I left them two messages and tried calling them because I received a defective Enthoo Primo out of the box, but have yet to receive any type of response from their RMA team (it's been two weeks now, I try to contact them intermittently). So here I am waiting to start my watercooling build, but can't because I need a replacement.
> 
> Anyone else have a similar experience, or have any suggestions? Hopefully there's a Phanteks rep here that can help me out.


i got replies the same day both times i have contacted phanteks--im in the uk and phanteks sorted it no problem and forwarded my email to holland who dealt with it

i emailed [email protected] and [email protected]

for me their support was great


----------



## mcnumpty23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> So where does everyone put there led lights and how many. I'm using two 30cm blue leds from icemodZ. One facing down next to my 360 rad and the other one the long panel that holds the hdd cages and optical drive slots. Now the top one I like bc it doesn't show a glare but the side one gives off a slight glare specially in pictures. I tried the bottom but when I look down it's blinding any suggestions i have the enthoo pro


i put one where you did on the hard drive cage panel and one along the bottom

but i used side facing leds so the light was directed sidewards and inwards and i used really narrow strips--5mm--so the bottom one sits low enough that its not visible but the light from it is


----------



## doyll

@ Fantomau
Beautiful build!

Just curious.
* Why are the video card power leads coming from in front of mobo tray instead of through the grommet? Kinda looks like they and the Sata cable would look cleaner coming through middle grommet along with main mobo lead..
* And what are the 2 leads at bottom back of tray through hole without grommet and one with grommet?
* Fan cable at top through hole without grommet instead of one with grommet?
I like what you've done with vinyl labeling and logos.









Really like the white Enthoo Luxe. Would love to have one myself.


----------



## Fantomau

Because I plan to get a real acrylic psu cover w/o a grommet hole and the way it is, it doesnt cover or hide stuff.

The CPU Fan cable will be moved over

The sata cables are where they are because they align up w/ the grommets

The usb cable will be moved over to the grommet.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fantomau*
> 
> Because I plan to get a real acrylic psu cover w/o a grommet hole and the way it is, it doesnt cover or hide stuff.
> 
> The CPU Fan cable will be moved over
> 
> The sata cables are where they are because they align up w/ the grommets
> 
> The usb cable will be moved over to the grommet.


All makes sense now.








Very nice job!


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fantomau*
> 
> has anyone replaced the window w/ an actual acrylic window?


I be been looking into it. I wish phanteks offered a rea cement full side panel window with alittle trim to hide leds. Specially since most people remove the panel that holds hdd cages and optical slots. This would allow more room where you could put a reservior there and be able to show it off


----------



## Pierre3400

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mcnumpty23*
> 
> i got replies the same day both times i have contacted phanteks--im in the uk and phanteks sorted it no problem and forwarded my email to holland who dealt with it
> 
> i emailed [email protected] and [email protected]
> 
> for me their support was great


Holy triple qoute with pics and all batman!


----------



## kush621

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fantomau*
> 
> My Luxe


I replaced that awful tinted acrylic window on my Luxe with a piece of glass for the big window, and a piece of clear acrylic for the small window. The small window stayed acrylic because Lowes wouldn't cut a piece of glass for me that small.


----------



## mcnumpty23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pierre3400*
> 
> Holy triple qoute with pics and all batman!


lol,,not sure why it quoted the photos and everything


----------



## Fantomau

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kush621*
> 
> I replaced that awful tinted acrylic window on my Luxe with a piece of glass for the big window, and a piece of clear acrylic for the small window. The small window stayed acrylic because Lowes wouldn't cut a piece of glass for me that small.


http://www.delviesplastics.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Store_Code=DPI&Category_Code=Transparent_Cast_Acrylic_Sheet


----------



## kush621

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fantomau*
> 
> http://www.delviesplastics.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Store_Code=DPI&Category_Code=Transparent_Cast_Acrylic_Sheet


what's this link for. I didn't like the tinted acrylic, that's why i went with the clear.


----------



## VulgarDisplay88

My Evolv, even though it's not officially part of this club it's still a Phanteks case so I thought I'd post it here.



More pics to come and they'll be better quality.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Didn't realize the Evolv was available for sale yet. I don't see that it is yet in the US. Is VulgarDisplay88 the first to post here with one?


----------



## emsj86

Fantomau. How did you mount the window you got cut from lowes? With 3m tape or did you get the sides tapered to fit how the orginal window does


----------



## VulgarDisplay88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Didn't realize the Evolv was available for sale yet. I don't see that it is yet in the US. Is VulgarDisplay88 the first to post here with one?


Khr1s has one as well but he posted in this thread:

(http://www.overclock.net/t/1492889/yt-phanteks-enthoo-evolv/180#post_23074189)

It has been available in the UK for about 2 weeks.


----------



## Fantomau

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Fantomau. How did you mount the window you got cut from lowes? With 3m tape or did you get the sides tapered to fit how the orginal window does


I didnt change the window


----------



## kush621

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Fantomau. How did you mount the window you got cut from lowes? With 3m tape or did you get the sides tapered to fit how the orginal window does


That was me. I used 3M tape, after i ground down those brackets the original acrylic were sitting on.


----------



## madmalkav

Just received my Primo. It totally confirms my inability to perceive how big is something until I have it in front of me.


----------



## aclofty887

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aclofty887*
> 
> Ok so as some of you might have seen my Luxe aircooled is keeping me happy for now. Now the plan is to go WC. I have started off proceedings with going for a Phobya Balancer 150 reservoir in black nickel.
> 
> I am planning on mounting a 360 in the top with a 120 on the rear and leaving the front alone for now. I apologise for the use of paint but it's all I have at work. I have to work out where the tubing is going to go.
> 
> 
> 
> Firstly I am not too fussed about noise so mid RPMs will be fine, radiator wise I am probably going for XSPC EX 360, 120. Am I right in thinking that the equivalent of 4*120mm Rads is enough? The 2500K will be running at 4.5Ghz no higher and with the 7950 mildly over clocked 325W is probably the combined TDP for the 2 items I'm cooling.
> 
> Next the order, bearing in mind that it will be solid tubing, I am thinking having the reservoir (blue) go into the pump(red) then straight up to the main radiator(yellow) then the CPU (green) and the second radiator (yellow) then Gpu (purple) and back to the reservoir. From what I have read, as long as the pump is after the reservoir the rest won't net me too big a gain in their positions. The tubing from the reservoir to the pump will have a T piece going to a blocking cap which can be opened to drain the system.
> 
> Rigid tubing will be Primiacools White acrylic and hopefully chrome fittings. I would like blue to match mbo but since this will be removed for Skylake this may not stay and I don't want to go out and drop another £70 on compression fittings lol.
> 
> Ideas welcome.


Well After working out where the phobya is going to go I decided to tweak my plan a little.



I'm now going to go for a universal GPU block since I may be upgradign the gpu in the next year or so. To cool the VRMs I have bought a PCI bracket that will hold 2 120mm fans, I will load up some SP fans a couple of brackets down and have the most of the hole board blasted directly with air. I'm not sure about LED fans though, I might get some Corsair SP120 Blue LED editions.

Getting excited now. Can anyone recommend a moderately cheap single 120mm Rad, probably around the 40-45mm mark, I might do a push and pull or leave it at push. I will upload the AX360 pics later on tonight.


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kush621*
> 
> I replaced that awful tinted acrylic window on my Luxe with a piece of glass for the big window, and a piece of clear acrylic for the small window. The small window stayed acrylic because Lowes wouldn't cut a piece of glass for me that small.


Did you have to get it notched or tapered to fit the orginal mounts for the window? Or did you just take the window to lowes and they cut a piece in the exact shape? If you didn't use the mounts how did you mount the new glass.


----------



## kush621

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Did you have to get it notched or tapered to fit the orginal mounts for the window? Or did you just take the window to lowes and they cut a piece in the exact shape? If you didn't use the mounts how did you mount the new glass.


I took a Dremel to the original mounts and got rid of them. Ground down flat. I added some U-Channel around the outside of the window, and stuck the glass on with some heavy duty 3M tape.


----------



## emsj86

Very interesting I think I might have to do it. My friend works with glass. I was hopin g e could make an identical window to match the orginal bracket


----------



## kush621

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Very interesting I think I might have to do it. My friend works with glass. I was hopin g e could make an identical window to match the orginal bracket


That was my first thought....then said eff it. Too costly.


----------



## Fantomau

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kush621*
> 
> That was me. I used 3M tape, after i ground down those brackets the original acrylic were sitting on.


Was it easy to do?


----------



## kush621

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fantomau*
> 
> Was it easy to do?


Yeah pretty simple. Once i got a feel for the grinding it was a breeze.


----------



## Phantatsy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phantatsy*
> 
> The exterior IS aluminum, but does not appear to be BRUSHED aluminum.
> http://www.phanteksusa.com/products/phanteks-enthoo-primo-special-edition
> 
> If that's the case, I'm so ordering the extra pieces from Phanteks to remove the brushed aluminum. (Unless I can powder coat it instead)


Phanteks got back to me, they do not sell those pieces individually. How sad.


----------



## Fantomau

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kush621*
> 
> Yeah pretty simple. Once i got a feel for the grinding it was a breeze.


could you show a close up of your window inside and out?


----------



## aclofty887

Hi Everyone

Here are the XSPC AX360 unboxing photos;






The silver is matt which I thinks adds a nice touch. If I need to I can remove the copper core and paint as well as the housing.

I have decided I will probably go for an XSPC EX120 as I can't really justify a £15 increase just for paintwork on this, especially when I could have another triple for the same price.

Still should all be in place by the new year hopefully.

Stay tuned.


----------



## taem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *madmalkav*
> 
> Just received my Primo. It totally confirms my inability to perceive how big is something until I have it in front of me.


It actually doesn't seem that big. It's not that much larger than my Define R4 which is a mid tower. I just saw my bro in law's beige full tower from the 90s, it's about twice as big. Seriously that thing is the size of a door.

And actually I wish the Primo were a little bit bigger. An inch taller to better fit thicker rads with taller reservoirs; an inch deeper to have a bit more space for gpus with res bracket in place; and an inch thicker to accommodate wider radiators at bottom. I really do think they did insufficient research on common components when they sized the Primo.


----------



## madmalkav

I'm not complaining about the size, I just find fun how bad I'm at perceiving some stuff.

Also, I just discovered I won a radiator on a Facebook promo from Highflow so now I'm even more happier I went with the Primo instead one of the smaller options


----------



## f1rest0rm

Recent upgrades 90% complete.


----------



## Pierre3400

Does anybody know if a Lamptron FC6 will fit behind the door? The knobs stick out a bit on the Lamptron controllers.


----------



## Fantomau

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pierre3400*
> 
> Does anybody know if a Lamptron FC6 will fit behind the door? The knobs stick out a bit on the Lamptron controllers.


A Reeven SixEye will since the knobs can be pushed in


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kush621*
> 
> I took a Dremel to the original mounts and got rid of them. Ground down flat. I added some U-Channel around the outside of the window, and stuck the glass on with some heavy duty 3M tape.


I would really like to see pictures of this as I can have a better idea how to do it. That is if you can


----------



## Pierre3400

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fantomau*
> 
> A Reeven SixEye will since the knobs can be pushed in


But i need to know about the lamptron.


----------



## kush621

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> I would really like to see pictures of this as I can have a better idea how to do it. That is if you can


the glass isn't on at the moment but you can see where the grind marks are and also the u-channel that I put on


----------



## Fantomau

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kush621*
> 
> the glass isn't on at the moment but you can see where the grind marks are and also the u-channel that I put on


Thanx for the pix. so you used 3m double sided tape


----------



## kush621

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fantomau*
> 
> Thanx for the pix. so you used 3m double sided tape


yes, but it's not on at the moment. I used the heavy duty stuff.


----------



## shadow85

Just ordered a Luxe, and MSI X99 Gaming 7 m/b from pccg. Can't wait to see this case.


----------



## judorange

My first custom loop. I love my Pro


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *judorange*
> 
> My first custom loop. I love my Pro


How did you mount your pump? Is it sitting on the fan or or you using the provided bracket


----------



## judorange

It's suspended by the tube








I tried with a male/male between the reservoir and the pump but it made the whole case vibrate when the pump was at max. I've used the provided support(the black stuff on the right of the pump) to completety decouple it.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *kush621*
> 
> I took a Dremel to the original mounts and got rid of them. Ground down flat. I added some U-Channel around the outside of the window, and stuck the glass on with some heavy duty 3M tape.
> 
> 
> 
> I would really like to see pictures of this as I can have a better idea how to do it. That is if you can
Click to expand...

Well, notwithstanding emsj86's grinding the mounting off of the panel, this vid ought to give you some idea of a custom case window using channel and 3M 'tape-of-the-gods' double-sided tape, in addition to the pics emsj86 posted ...


----------



## atomicus

I am seriously considering an ENTHOO LUXE for my upcoming build, and I'm curious to all you owners on here, how do you find the noise levels? Have you changed the fans? I'm coming from a Silverstone TJ08-E. I was looking at getting something like a Bitfenix Recon fan controller for the front panel, but is that necessary with the PWM controller? I've never had a case with one of those, so I'm not all too familiar with how they work. I do like the idea of having something to use up one of the front panels though, as I won't be using an optical drive... plus I want the white case and white optical drives seem to be virtually non-existent these days. Very little in the way of front bay add-ons in white generally speaking actually.


----------



## gsan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *f1rest0rm*
> 
> Recent upgrades 90% complete.


how did you mount the photon? can you show more picture?


----------



## Phantatsy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gsan*
> 
> how did you mount the photon? can you show more picture?


There is mounting holes in the back of the case on the Primo (not sure on the other ones). That would be my guess.


----------



## demps709

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trestles126*
> 
> If say in the luxe ud be ok with the fans up top above chasi, seeing that the pro has no fan support above chasi it'd be hard. What about spinning rad 180 and having fittings up front with 90s off them eat up ur top two bays but would solve fitting clearance
> Curious if u can use the


Sadly that wouldn't work well for my current setup using some of the bays. Also it would mess with my tubing runs.


----------



## Darkness Sakura

Guess I should be among you guys as well soon, ordered the Primo on the 16th of October, unfortunately because I'm currently at an APO address they, Newegg, wouldn't ship it so I had it sent via APO Box and well they sent it via Parcel Post which has a 25-40 day ship time... oh well it'll give me time to piece the rest of it together. I, like many others, can't wait to see this monster... biggest case I've owned (next to the Antec 1200).


----------



## mcnumpty23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darkness Sakura*
> 
> Guess I should be among you guys as well soon, ordered the Primo on the 16th of October, unfortunately because I'm currently at an APO address they, Newegg, wouldn't ship it so I had it sent via APO Box and well they sent it via Parcel Post which has a 25-40 day ship time... oh well it'll give me time to piece the rest of it together. I, like many others, can't wait to see this monster... biggest case I've owned (next to the Antec 1200).


its worth the wait

and it is a monster--mines on the floor under my desk on carpet and when you need to pull it out its not easy

a set wheels should really have been an option on a case this size


----------



## Darkness Sakura

I saw somewhere on here, I believe, someone created a roller for their rig (not specificially this one I don't think), I may do the same and get some small casters and a frame to set it in so it can easily roll around with no problem. But my setup now sits on a smallish table thing, so this will most likely "tower" (pun intended) my monitors and possibly me when I'm just chillin' at my desk... but it was the watercooling, fan and PSU capability that sold me; I can manage to work around the weight issue.


----------



## taem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darkness Sakura*
> 
> I saw somewhere on here, I believe, someone created a roller for their rig (not specificially this one I don't think), I may do the same and get some small casters and a frame to set it in...


That'd be doyll. If he sold those things I'd buy. That's some professional work.


----------



## emsj86

So if anyone is wondering a spot to mount your reservior on the pro. I mounted the res clips to the top hdd tray. I have the res and pump connected together. It worked but would vibrate making it seem as if the pump was loud. So today I went to lowes and got rubber washers and remounted the clips. Now it's completly quiet.


----------



## TNortham112

Does anyone know of any websites where I would be able to submit a design and get a special case badge made from metal to replace the phanteks badge that can be seen from the small window on the side of the enthoo luxe/pro/primo


----------



## VulgarDisplay88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TNortham112*
> 
> Does anyone know of any websites where I would be able to submit a design and get a special case badge made from metal to replace the phanteks badge that can be seen from the small window on the side of the enthoo luxe/pro/primo


What country are you in?


----------



## TNortham112

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VulgarDisplay88*
> 
> What country are you in?


UK


----------



## VulgarDisplay88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TNortham112*
> 
> UK


Cool. I'll see if my mate can do it for you. I'll send him a message and PM you when I get a reply.


----------



## rdxth3xway

Just got this case, I've been a follower of OC.net for a long time now, just created an account to join this specific community! Love the case so far, the Corsair quiet edition fans offer good cooling but i was mainly looking for a near silent operation. When I decide to upgrade to either SLI GTX 970s or a single GTX 980 (when the 8gb version launches for eventual 4K gaming), I will be creating my first ever full custom loop. What do you guys think? And yes, that is a small Xbox one game collection (I'm also a dirty console player ontop of playing many games on the PC!)


----------



## Darkness Sakura

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rdxth3xway*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just got this case, I've been a follower of OC.net for a long time now, just created an account to join this specific community! Love the case so far, the Corsair quiet edition fans offer good cooling but i was mainly looking for a near silent operation. When I decide to upgrade to either SLI GTX 970s or a single GTX 980 (when the 8gb version launches for eventual 4K gaming), I will be creating my first ever full custom loop. What do you guys think? And yes, that is a small Xbox one game collection (I'm also a dirty console player ontop of playing many games on the PC!)


Lovin' the white with red, nice touch. You know it never hurts to rock two 980s... lol although I'm going for the current 4GB 980s and running 3-way SLY on my X10DAX --- my first ever dual CPU setup, should be interesting; will be dual loop, just haven't decided whether to do regular tubing or rigid acrylic...


----------



## doyll

At first I didn't think I would like the white cases, but after seeing a few built the have grown on me. I would love to have a white Enthoo Luxe.


----------



## Elrick

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rdxth3xway*
> 
> Just got this case, I've been a follower of OC.net for a long time now, just created an account to join this specific community!


Brilliant FIRST post here on OCN







. Love your Phantek Case and I'm now ready to buy one before Christmas because I desperately need something cooling like this baby.


----------



## aDyerSituation

Never really gave this case a glance because I didn't know there was a white one...but oh my









My next build can't come any faster!


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> At first I didn't think I would like the white cases, but after seeing a few built the have grown on me. I would love to have a white Enthoo Luxe.


you would indeed:


http://imgur.com/XJubU


----------



## Darkness Sakura

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PureBlackFire*
> 
> you would indeed:
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/XJubU


----------



## atomicus

Can anyone with a Luxe tell me what the noise levels are like? How audible are the fans? Has anyone found a need to swap them out for something quieter?


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *atomicus*
> 
> Can anyone with a Luxe tell me what the noise levels are like? How audible are the fans? Has anyone found a need to swap them out for something quieter?


it good. the 140mm fans are some of the quietest I've used. the 200mm fan is audible. I took it out and put two 140's in front. the noise level is lower than my H440. partly because i don't need to have my SP120 fans on high to get decent temps.


----------



## Trestles126

Installed some darkside lights to go with my phanteks LEDs need 2 more pig tails to get the last suoremacy block led and a b


----------



## Trestles126

Sorry horrible at taking night shots


----------



## unimatrixzero

I would love to show off my new Phanteks Enthoo EVOLV case project I did with an ASUS Impact Z87 board and 4770k onboard with a NVIDIA Windforce760 card and really nice Corsair H100i cooler.. ENJOY.


----------



## mcnumpty23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TNortham112*
> 
> UK


you could try pulse modding

https://www.facebook.com/PulseModding


----------



## celmaitarero

Hello guys!

There is my "almost" finish set-up!


----------



## mcnumpty23

cant decide between msi gtx970 or Gigabyte GeForce GTX 970 G1 Gaming

not sure the g1 will quite fit with the reservoir bracket in--just the rear part of the bracket--ive removed the face plate part

any one got the Gigabyte GeForce GTX 970 G1 Gaming in their primo?


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *unimatrixzero*
> 
> I would love to show off my new Phanteks Enthoo EVOLV case project I did with an ASUS Impact Z87 board and 4770k onboard with a NVIDIA Windforce760 card and really nice Corsair H100i cooler.. ENJOY.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Looks very nice!

Haven't seen many Evolv builds yet. I'm using full size motherboards so can't use an Evolv. Wish Phanteks made an Evolv style for ATX.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mcnumpty23*
> 
> cant decide between msi gtx970 or Gigabyte GeForce GTX 970 G1 Gaming
> 
> not sure the g1 will quite fit with the reservoir bracket in--just the rear part of the bracket--ive removed the face plate part
> 
> any one got the Gigabyte GeForce GTX 970 G1 Gaming in their primo?


This card?
http://www.gigabyte.com/products/product-page.aspx?pid=5209



Sorry, but no way will that card fit in the Primo with the reservoir bracket in place (at least with the air cooler on it). Max GPU length is 10.9" (277mm) with it in, and that's with the plastic cover removed. The bracket have to be removed to make room for that card unless maybe with the air cooler removed the PCB is that much shorter. It does look to be shorter but by how much I don't know.

From the manual:



And that matches what I got measuring it:



And just looking how wide that card is also it's questionable whether there would be room to mount a tube res in the spot on the back panel either. Several people have mentioned not being able to fit a res there with wider cards. A safer bet with a card that long would be a bay res or remove both HDD cages and mount a tube res in there.


----------



## mcnumpty23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> This card?
> http://www.gigabyte.com/products/product-page.aspx?pid=5209
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry, but no way will that card fit in the Primo with the reservoir bracket in place (at least with the air cooler on it). Max GPU length is 10.9" (277mm) with it in, and that's with the plastic cover removed. The bracket have to be removed to make room for that card unless maybe with the air cooler removed the PCB is that much shorter. It does look to be shorter but by how much I don't know.
> 
> From the manual:
> 
> 
> 
> And that matches what I got measuring it:
> 
> 
> 
> And just looking how wide that card is also it's questionable whether there would be room to mount a tube res in the spot on the back panel either. Several people have mentioned not being able to fit a res there with wider cards. A safer bet with a card that long would be a bay res or remove both HDD cages and mount a tube res in there.


great detailed reply









yet ive got a gigabyte 7970 in it now--only just fits with the res bracket in place without the face plate and according to gigabyte website the 7970 is H=38 mm, L=285 mm, W=126 mm

so its longer than the 277mm and i have a little space left to the res bracket--so bit puzzled

http://www.gigabyte.com/products/product-page.aspx?pid=4102#sp

guess i might have to pull the case out and double check measurements

the msi gtx970 would fit--but i prefer the gigabyte for having a backplate--and its getting reviewed as the best gtx970 most placesi do plan to water cool whichever card i go for--think ek are making a

custom block for both of them

edited--the image you posted of the g1 looks like the tape measure is at about 296mm? yet says its 312mm on gigabyte website


----------



## mcnumpty23

heres the 7970 in my primo--not very good photo though


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mcnumpty23*
> 
> great detailed reply
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> y*et ive got a gigabyte 7970 in it now--only just fits with the res bracket in place without the face plate and according to gigabyte website the 7970 is H=38 mm, L=285 mm, W=126 mm
> 
> so its longer than the 277mm and i have a little space left to the res bracket--so bit puzzled
> 
> http://www.gigabyte.com/products/product-page.aspx?pid=4102#sp*
> 
> guess i might have to pull the case out and double check measurements
> 
> the msi gtx970 would fit--but i prefer the gigabyte for having a backplate--and its getting reviewed as the best gtx970 most placesi do plan to water cool whichever card i go for--think ek are making a
> 
> custom block for both of them
> 
> edited--the image you posted of the g1 looks like the tape measure is at about 296mm? yet says its 312mm on gigabyte website


Look at the lengths of the Gigabyte GeForce GTX 970 G1 Gaming and compare to the pic I posted. Their site says 312mm long but the pic with the ruler shows it's ~298mm-ish. All I can figure is Gigabyte is evidently measuring the full length of the card including the bracket and connectors that extend outside the case.

edit: just caught your edit, and see you noticed the same thing about the measurements on Gigabyte's site.


----------



## atomicus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PureBlackFire*
> 
> it good. the 140mm fans are some of the quietest I've used. the 200mm fan is audible. I took it out and put two 140's in front. the noise level is lower than my H440. partly because i don't need to have my SP120 fans on high to get decent temps.


That's good to hear, as I've been looking at the H440 also. What 140mm fans did you put in the front?


----------



## mcnumpty23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Look at the lengths of the Gigabyte GeForce GTX 970 G1 Gaming and compare to the pic I posted. Their site says 312mm long but the pic with the ruler shows it's ~298mm-ish. All I can figure is Gigabyte is evidently measuring the full length of the card including the bracket and connectors that extend outside the case.
> 
> edit: just caught your edit, and see you noticed the same thing about the measurements on Gigabyte's site.


think you are right--they measure the connectors even though they are outside the case

ok guess i take the difference between their measurements for the 7970 and gtx970

so 27mm more than the 7970--going to be very,,very tight

guess the brackets got an appointment with a hacksaw if i go for the gigabyte card


----------



## welshy46

I've finally decided on my new case. It was going to be the primo, but to be honest. That's more room than I need in a case for my uses, so I finally went for the luxe in black. Order is in place with overclockeruk and it should arrive tomorrow.

After cyber stalking you guys and watching and reading the gushing praise reviewers have been giving these cases, I had to have one. Ideally I'd have all three of them, but I'll settle for the luxe.

It's more of a recasing than a full new build. I'll be using a lot of the components from my Corsair 230t build, see SIG for pics. but with hard tubing(first time user) and the XSPC bay res swapped for a Primochill tube res and an extra 140mm EK XTC rad.

I'll post some pics when everything arrives and I start the build.


----------



## mcnumpty23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *welshy46*
> 
> I've finally decided on my new case. It was going to be the primo, but to be honest. That's more room than I need in a case for my uses, so I finally went for the luxe in black. Order is in place with overclockeruk and it should arrive tomorrow.
> 
> After cyber stalking you guys and watching and reading the gushing praise reviewers have been giving these cases, I had to have one. Ideally I'd have all three of them, but I'll settle for the luxe.
> 
> It's more of a recasing than a full new build. I'll be using a lot of the components from my Corsair 230t build, see SIG for pics. but with hard tubing(first time user) and the XSPC bay res swapped for a Primochill tube res and an extra 140mm EK XTC rad.
> 
> I'll post some pics when everything arrives and I start the build.


dont think you will be disappointed with the luxe--like the coloured led lighting on it wish the primo had it

i went with the primo cos i got it for £100---bit off a steal far as i was concerned


----------



## welshy46

Yeah the LED'S were one of the plus points for me, if the primo had come with adjustable lighting my choice might have been different. £100 is a steal for the primi, top work there. The cheapest I found it in the UK was Scans ebay site. £167 delivered. There shop has it at £199+ £12 delivery. Luckily overclockersuk had everything I needed so they got my hard earned this time.

I'm like a kid waiting for xmas now, it should be fun playing around inside of this case. I just hope I can do it justice after seeing some of the builds on here.


----------



## doyll

Lots of variety on our group. Everything from simple air to multi-pump & radiators and SLI graphics .. Seems I've seen a Primo with dual CPUs on independent loops, but can't remember where.


----------



## mcnumpty23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *welshy46*
> 
> Yeah the LED'S were one of the plus points for me, if the primo had come with adjustable lighting my choice might have been different. £100 is a steal for the primi, top work there. The cheapest I found it in the UK was Scans ebay site. £167 delivered. There shop has it at £199+ £12 delivery. Luckily overclockersuk had everything I needed so they got my hard earned this time.
> 
> I'm like a kid waiting for xmas now, it should be fun playing around inside of this case. I just hope I can do it justice after seeing some of the builds on here.


i have all the cable tidying skills of your average 4 year old and still managed my tidiest ever build in the primo so im sure youll be fine

i dont usually care what it looks like long as it works--but phanteks made it so easy to do a tidy build

in fact there are very few things i could criticise on the primo and the luxe is probably the same

and anything i did pick on would be minor,,like the primo should have had wheels,,the ssd trays arent easy to connect sata power to 2 drives in

them at once as theyre close together--one drive is fine in them

windowed panel is a little flimsy for the price of the primo

and replacing the blue led strip with a different colour is a pain as it needs to be under about 6mm wide--dont have that problem with the luxe

but those are all minor gripes

edited--the reservoir bracket cut out should have been different to allow sli cards--the cut out should have extended further down


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trestles126*
> 
> Installed some darkside lights to go with my phanteks LEDs need 2 more pig tails to get the last suoremacy block led and a b


Where did you mount the leds. I have one up top facing down which I like than the other on the panel facing left that holds hdd and optical drives which gives too much glare off the res. I tried the bottom but do t line that it blinds me when looking down at my unit. Wondering if I put the led on the back side of the hdd/of panel would it still shine enough but without the glare off the reservior. Note these are blue leds (Not uv) and will be installing white leds soon to show off my parts better.


----------



## emsj86




----------



## welshy46

@mcnumpty23 luckily the minor gripes shouldn't affect my build too much. I'll be taking a dremel to the side panel to make my own window and my only SSD is Pcie. I'll be removing the 3.5" bays to fit an Alphacool 280 rad, possibly more dremel work there. My 1TB seagate sshd will be mounted elsewhere, but not sure where yet.

I'm surprised Phantek hasn't modified the reservoir bracket as it was first pointed out about it's interference with cards in SLI was picked up before it's release. Maybe they're saving that for the MK2 version.


----------



## mcnumpty23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Where did you mount the leds. I have one up top facing down which I like than the other on the panel facing left that holds hdd and optical drives which gives too much glare off the res. I tried the bottom but do t line that it blinds me when looking down at my unit. Wondering if I put the led on the back side of the hdd/of panel would it still shine enough but without the glare off the reservior. Note these are blue leds (Not uv) and will be installing white leds soon to show off my parts better.


i put mine on the back side of the hdd panel--but i used side facing leds to direct the colour towards the rear of the case--can probably see the red on the rear white fan--though not a great photo

and the ones i put on the bottom arent so visible once the side panels on

http://s1184.photobucket.com/user/mcnumpty23/media/P1000770_zps3cde7766.jpg.html


----------



## mcnumpty23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *welshy46*
> 
> @mcnumpty23 luckily the minor gripes shouldn't affect my build too much. I'll be taking a dremel to the side panel to make my own window and my only SSD is Pcie. I'll be removing the 3.5" bays to fit an Alphacool 280 rad, possibly more dremel work there. My 1TB seagate sshd will be mounted elsewhere, but not sure where yet.
> 
> I'm surprised Phantek hasn't modified the reservoir bracket as it was first pointed out about it's interference with cards in SLI was picked up before it's release. Maybe they're saving that for the MK2 version.


dremel solves everything









pci-e ssd? nice,,,i looked at those but couldnt justify the cost and not sure my samsung ssds in raid would be much slower anyway,,maybe in benchmarks but in real life use? not sure i would notice the

difference


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *atomicus*
> 
> That's good to hear, as I've been looking at the H440 also. What 140mm fans did you put in the front?


the Phanteks SP140's that come with the case.


----------



## Trestles126

Best bet is too buy a few and temporarily place them n test till u like. I have a aquaro 6 I can adjust the brightnes of my darkside LEDs with


----------



## Dan292

Hi all,

I've also been having problems with the pwm hub on the Enthoo Pro. I have looked back at the posts on this thread which is quite confusing as there is two types of hub.

Anyway I connected 4 fans to it: one cpu fan on the first (white) connector, one Phanteks PH-F140XP PWM Fan and the two fans which came with the case which I believe are not pwm? I vaguely know how the hub works; It uses the pwm signal from the first connector to control the other fans speeds, effectively making them all pwm, correct me if I'm wrong. I then connected the sata power to the hub and then the hub to the CPU_FAN header. Switched everything on and the fans are running at 100%.

My board is an Asus maximus vii ranger. This is a new build. I've made sure in the bios the cpu fan is in pwm mode, it gives me the speed options in Q Fan in the bios but nothing will change the speed of the fans.

So I tried putting the fans in the mb individually and they work, with the cpu fan running at about 500rpm. Strangley in the Q Fan options when I try to manually change the speed on the line graph it wont let me, just goes to 100% when I click on one of the points. The other PWM fan does not have this problem though, its in cha_fan2, set to pwm in bios.

So is the hub faulty or the mb? Would be grateful of some help.

Thanks


----------



## Trestles126

Is it ok to use the pwm fan hub splitter to power to darkside 3mm LEDs for my water block ? I'm doing it at works fine 1 per each port only have 4 fans hooked up to it and the sata powering it


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dan292*
> 
> Hi all,
> 
> I've also been having problems with the pwm hub on the Enthoo Pro. I have looked back at the posts on this thread which is quite confusing as there is two types of hub.
> 
> Anyway I connected 4 fans to it: one cpu fan on the first (white) connector, one Phanteks PH-F140XP PWM Fan and the two fans which came with the case which I believe are not pwm? I vaguely know how the hub works; It uses the pwm signal from the first connector to control the other fans speeds, effectively making them all pwm, correct me if I'm wrong. I then connected the sata power to the hub and then the hub to the CPU_FAN header. Switched everything on and the fans are running at 100%.
> 
> My board is an Asus maximus vii ranger. This is a new build. I've made sure in the bios the cpu fan is in pwm mode, it gives me the speed options in Q Fan in the bios but nothing will change the speed of the fans.
> 
> So I tried putting the fans in the mb individually and they work, with the cpu fan running at about 500rpm. Strangley in the Q Fan options when I try to manually change the speed on the line graph it wont let me, just goes to 100% when I click on one of the points. The other PWM fan does not have this problem though, its in cha_fan2, set to pwm in bios.
> 
> So is the hub faulty or the mb? Would be grateful of some help.
> 
> Thanks


This seems to be an ongoing problem with no definitive answers. My guess is there is something weird in the way Asus is dong the PWM signal that the PWM controlled fan hub does not work with, but it's only a guess.


----------



## emsj86

So contacted phanteks and I can buy a none window side panel for 14.99 black. 18.99 white. I think I will buy one and than using u channel and glass make a full window side panel with some of the panel on the outer part to hide leds/ look nice. I think it will give me more options to now mount the res and pump where he hdd cages out, bc as of now you can do that but won't be able to see them and looks is a big part for me. Also I if I leave the panel that has the hdd logo on it I could mount my ssds there or put vinyal wrap graphics. Def going to be my next project.


----------



## taem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> This seems to be an ongoing problem with no definitive answers. My guess is there is something weird in the way Asus is dong the PWM signal that the PWM controlled fan hub does not work with, but it's only a guess.


I have maximus vii gene in primo, the pwm hub works flawlessly. I've got all 5 stock fans hooked to it. I have the molex version but it's connected to sata power via adapter.

Have not tried different fans on it though.


----------



## mcnumpty23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trestles126*
> 
> Is it ok to use the pwm fan hub splitter to power to darkside 3mm LEDs for my water block ? I'm doing it at works fine 1 per each port only have 4 fans hooked up to it and the sata powering it


i tried my leds on the pwm hub in my primo

they pulsated--dont know if thats the case with every led or if its due to the fan curve i set

so i just connected them elsewhere


----------



## mcnumpty23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> This seems to be an ongoing problem with no definitive answers. My guess is there is something weird in the way Asus is dong the PWM signal that the PWM controlled fan hub does not work with, but it's only a guess.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dan292*
> 
> Hi all,
> 
> I've also been having problems with the pwm hub on the Enthoo Pro. I have looked back at the posts on this thread which is quite confusing as there is two types of hub.
> 
> Anyway I connected 4 fans to it: one cpu fan on the first (white) connector, one Phanteks PH-F140XP PWM Fan and the two fans which came with the case which I believe are not pwm? I vaguely know how the hub works; It uses the pwm signal from the first connector to control the other fans speeds, effectively making them all pwm, correct me if I'm wrong. I then connected the sata power to the hub and then the hub to the CPU_FAN header. Switched everything on and the fans are running at 100%.
> 
> My board is an Asus maximus vii ranger. This is a new build. I've made sure in the bios the cpu fan is in pwm mode, it gives me the speed options in Q Fan in the bios but nothing will change the speed of the fans.
> 
> So I tried putting the fans in the mb individually and they work, with the cpu fan running at about 500rpm. Strangley in the Q Fan options when I try to manually change the speed on the line graph it wont let me, just goes to 100% when I click on one of the points. The other PWM fan does not have this problem though, its in cha_fan2, set to pwm in bios.
> 
> So is the hub faulty or the mb? Would be grateful of some help.
> 
> Thanks


mine works fine on a asus p8z68-pro v3

can you test the hub in a friends pc with a different motherboard from yours?

edited--im using different makes of fan--swiftech,silverstone and enermax--they all work fine for me


----------



## VulgarDisplay88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dan292*
> 
> Hi all,
> 
> I've also been having problems with the pwm hub on the Enthoo Pro. I have looked back at the posts on this thread which is quite confusing as there is two types of hub.
> 
> Anyway I connected 4 fans to it: one cpu fan on the first (white) connector, one Phanteks PH-F140XP PWM Fan and the two fans which came with the case which I believe are not pwm? I vaguely know how the hub works; It uses the pwm signal from the first connector to control the other fans speeds, effectively making them all pwm, correct me if I'm wrong. I then connected the sata power to the hub and then the hub to the CPU_FAN header. Switched everything on and the fans are running at 100%.
> 
> My board is an Asus maximus vii ranger. This is a new build. I've made sure in the bios the cpu fan is in pwm mode, it gives me the speed options in Q Fan in the bios but nothing will change the speed of the fans.
> 
> So I tried putting the fans in the mb individually and they work, with the cpu fan running at about 500rpm. Strangley in the Q Fan options when I try to manually change the speed on the line graph it wont let me, just goes to 100% when I click on one of the points. The other PWM fan does not have this problem though, its in cha_fan2, set to pwm in bios.
> 
> So is the hub faulty or the mb? Would be grateful of some help.
> 
> Thanks


Set the CPU fan mode in the bios to Auto and unplug the sata power to the hub, then adjust the fan profile in AI Suite 3 and let me know what it does.


----------



## welshy46

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mcnumpty23*
> 
> dremel solves everything
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> pci-e ssd? nice,,,i looked at those but couldn't justify the cost and not sure my samsung ssds in raid would be much slower anyway,,maybe in benchmarks but in real life use? not sure i would notice the
> 
> difference


I originally got the ASUS ROG PCI-e to go with the ROG hero VI I had.Plus it was a little bit different at the time and I'd been doing a LOT of overtime







It's just two 120gb SSD's in RAID, I only have the OS and start up programs on it to keep everything zipping along. It's about a year old, so was more comparable with SSD pries at the time. A little pricey now though. I keep all my games on the 1TB SSHD, compared to the SATA II 1TB it's lot faster. i didn't know until I ran Battlefield 4 off the SSHD that there is a deploy screen at the start







I've not tried to run BF4 off of the PCI-e drive, it just means I'd have a longer wait for the game to start lol .

I did think about putting two 500GB Samsung SSD's in RAID instead of the SSHD, but it's fast enough for me at the minute. Plus the money I've saved means I can try hard tubing my rig for the first time







been watching a few vids on it.

The dremel is the answer to all those questions of " can I fit ???? into ????" that reminds me, I'll have to pop to B&Q and grab some cutting blades tomorrow, just in case


----------



## doyll

I stand corrected. ** wipes egg off face **

Maybe it's only some Asus board, or maybe just identity ten tea / picnic kind of thing.
ID10T error
person in chair, not in computer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VulgarDisplay88*
> 
> Set the CPU fan mode in the bios to Auto and unplug the sata power to the hub, then adjust the fan profile in AI Suite 3 and let me know what it does.


If unplugging the sata works then the fan header is doing voltage control, not PWM control.


----------



## Dan292

Ok so I plugged in two fans to the hub to test and unplugged the sata, still at 100% with it set on pwm in the bios.

I tried the fan tuning thing and these are the results:

Sata Unplugged:



Sata Plugged in:



After tuning with the sata plugged in I was able to get the speed down to 900rpm (100% being 1100rpm) by manually adjusting it to the lowest I could take it on the graph below. When I selected any of the other profiles like standard and silent it goes to 100% again.


----------



## Faster_is_better

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> [
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *taem*
> 
> I have a white primo from amazon ordered just a few weeks ago and I have 126mm there.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for that reply. I think yours is like mine, which I measure right at 125mm. Don't know if that means that yours is a V1 or if all the white versions are V1 or if there never was a V2 modification done on the Primo, but I just can't see how a 130mm wide rad could be made to fit in there without damaging something.
> 
> Hopefully others will measure theirs also, especially those that also recently bought the case. It seems odd they would have removed the max 125mm width info from the manual if it still applies.
Click to expand...

The website still shows the 125mm max on the FAQ page. See http://www.phanteks.com/assets/enthoo-primo/FAQ3.png

Aren't most 360/480mm rads wider than 125mm or is it totally hit/miss?

I think both of my 360 rads I stockpiled may be 130mm+ so... that may be a problem.


----------



## Trestles126

had a chance to mess with my nikon need a light box to really get the pictures a lot of you guys get but these shall suffice. just ordered some custom sleeved cables to match better from ICEmodz. Red black and charcol grey for all three main cables. as well as clear red cable combs

enjoy


----------



## welshy46

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Faster_is_better*
> 
> The website still shows the 125mm max on the FAQ page. See http://www.phanteks.com/assets/enthoo-primo/FAQ3.png
> 
> Aren't most 360/480mm rads wider than 125mm or is it totally hit/miss?
> 
> I think both of my 360 rads I stockpiled may be 130mm+ so... that may be a problem.


The review I watched by Bill Owen from MNPCTEch did say that 120mm rads like those from Hardware labs were slightly you wide to fit without a bit of dremel action. The 360mm alphacool UT45 I have is exactly 125mm wide if you prefer not going at your case with power tools and don't mind shelling out for more rads.


----------



## mcnumpty23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trestles126*
> 
> had a chance to mess with my nikon need a light box to really get the pictures a lot of you guys get but these shall suffice. just ordered some custom sleeved cables to match better from ICEmodz. Red black and charcol grey for all three main cables. as well as clear red cable combs
> 
> enjoy
> 
> thats some nice camera work


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trestles126*
> 
> had a chance to mess with my nikon need a light box to really get the pictures a lot of you guys get but these shall suffice. just ordered some custom sleeved cables to match better from ICEmodz. Red black and charcol grey for all three main cables. as well as clear red cable combs
> 
> enjoy


Icemodz does good work. They did my cables and sent me free combs with it. Also I use there leds which our priced and work great. You should pick up some white leds from them. You could still run the red whenever you like but the white really shows off the build. I'm in the process of orderi a non window side panel to mod a full size window for my enthoo pro.


----------



## emsj86

I have a question for the water cool guys. I have a 240mm rad on the bottom. Now it only has two 1/4 ports. I want to add a drain by using the bitspower adapter and a mini valve. I've seen people do this but how does it drain the bottom rad. I'm assuming you either have to flip the case after drain most of the loop it take off one tube and use nitrogen (dry air) and blow through to push it out. My only other option is buy an alphacool ut rad bc they have side ports as well and run a drain off of that


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trestles126*
> 
> had a chance to mess with my nikon need a light box to really get the pictures a lot of you guys get but these shall suffice. just ordered some custom sleeved cables to match better from ICEmodz. Red black and charcol grey for all three main cables. as well as clear red cable combs
> 
> enjoy
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> [/URL
> 
> 
> ]


Beautiful build!








Love the straight lines of rigid tubing.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> I have a question for the water cool guys. I have a 240mm rad on the bottom. Now it only has two 1/4 ports. I want to add a drain by using the bitspower adapter and a mini valve. I've seen people do this but how does it drain the bottom rad. I'm assuming you either have to flip the case after drain most of the loop it take off one tube and use nitrogen (dry air) and blow through to push it out. My only other option is buy an alphacool ut rad bc they have side ports as well and run a drain off of that


You should be able to add a 3-way adapter (tee-splitter) at/near the port to the lower rad to drain your loop, all except the lower rad, with the case upright, and then tilt the case to drain out as much as you can of the lower rad. You might not get it all out of that lower rad but you should be able to get pretty close to it without having to resort to blowing air into or taking the loop apart and pulling that rad out.

It would be easier if that lower rad had extra ports though.


----------



## gsan

Anyone able to mout d5 photon on primo, the space beside the slot without any modding? mind to post any picture?


----------



## xelo092

Got a brand new enthoo luxe but the window panel is rattling at the front side, is this normal? The screws on the rear side are in tight.


----------



## Tunz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gsan*
> 
> Anyone able to mout d5 photon on primo, the space beside the slot without any modding? mind to post any picture?


Is this what you mean? This is @f1rest0rm's build. Maybe he can chime in.


----------



## idlesloth

Hi just looking for some help with my phanteks enthoo primo. How do I connect the blue light on the front and top of the cases? I read on form that it comes pre wired and works out of the box. And the led strip is just for extra led that you would put inside the case. Or do I need a male to male molex connector for the led strip to my psu? My psu is corsair hxi1000 it doesn't come with a male molex connector only female.


----------



## taem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gsan*
> 
> Anyone able to mout d5 photon on primo, the space beside the slot without any modding? mind to post any picture?


Unicr0nhunter and Pierre3400 both have a lot of experience on fitting the Photon inside the Primo and have shared a lot of info about this in the thread. Like this from Unicr0nhunter



They can tell you a lot more but basically, you can use Velcro on the res bracket, or you have to mod, as the holes don't line up. And your gpu has to be 10.5" or less. And it's a tight fit.


----------



## koiking

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dan292*
> 
> Hi all,
> 
> I've also been having problems with the pwm hub on the Enthoo Pro. I have looked back at the posts on this thread which is quite confusing as there is two types of hub.
> 
> Anyway I connected 4 fans to it: one cpu fan on the first (white) connector, one Phanteks PH-F140XP PWM Fan and the two fans which came with the case which I believe are not pwm? I vaguely know how the hub works; It uses the pwm signal from the first connector to control the other fans speeds, effectively making them all pwm, correct me if I'm wrong. I then connected the sata power to the hub and then the hub to the CPU_FAN header. Switched everything on and the fans are running at 100%.
> 
> My board is an Asus maximus vii ranger. This is a new build. I've made sure in the bios the cpu fan is in pwm mode, it gives me the speed options in Q Fan in the bios but nothing will change the speed of the fans.
> 
> So I tried putting the fans in the mb individually and they work, with the cpu fan running at about 500rpm. Strangley in the Q Fan options when I try to manually change the speed on the line graph it wont let me, just goes to 100% when I click on one of the points. The other PWM fan does not have this problem though, its in cha_fan2, set to pwm in bios.
> 
> So is the hub faulty or the mb? Would be grateful of some help.
> 
> Thanks


I'm not sure if it's the same as the Evolv but I connected the PWM header to the CPU_FAN 4-pin socket on my Z97 Gryphon. If I plugged in the SATA power, the fans would run full speed. Just disconnect it and draw all power from the PWN connection.

Also, people with Evolv, there doesn't seem to be much option for watercooling the system. It supports 240/280 top and front 240.

From the top to the motherboard you have about 65mm. Because the mount actually side more anterior to the board, you can probably fit a bit bigger. I would say 30mm rad and single fans to be safe. Currently I have a H100i with push/pull running but theres only a few more mm before i would hit the ram chips.

The front is a major issue. I have two EVGA GTX 780s. Between the rad mounting plate as seen in the video, I can measure about 70mm. The cards would also stop anything thicker than 30mm of rad sitting in the front.

Currently, there's no many options for placement of the reservoir and pump unless you will use a micro res and the swiftech pump/cpu block combo. Can anyone think of how watercooling maybe easier with hard modifications?


----------



## Faster_is_better

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *welshy46*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Faster_is_better*
> 
> The website still shows the 125mm max on the FAQ page. See http://www.phanteks.com/assets/enthoo-primo/FAQ3.png
> 
> Aren't most 360/480mm rads wider than 125mm or is it totally hit/miss?
> 
> I think both of my 360 rads I stockpiled may be 130mm+ so... that may be a problem.
> 
> 
> 
> The review I watched by Bill Owen from MNPCTEch did say that 120mm rads like those from Hardware labs were slightly you wide to fit without a bit of dremel action. The 360mm alphacool UT45 I have is exactly 125mm wide if you prefer not going at your case with power tools and don't mind shelling out for more rads.
Click to expand...

I probably wouldn't have a problem cutting it out, if it isn't going to hurt it structurally or look to terrible. Anyone have pictures of what would have to be cut/modified?

Edit: Hmm, actually it seems like that whole PSU facade would have to be cut or bent to accommodate the wider reservoir. To bad Phanteks didn't make the case just a tiny bit wider so this would fit basically all radiators.


----------



## mcnumpty23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *idlesloth*
> 
> Hi just looking for some help with my phanteks enthoo primo. How do I connect the blue light on the front and top of the cases? I read on form that it comes pre wired and works out of the box. And the led strip is just for extra led that you would put inside the case. Or do I need a male to male molex connector for the led strip to my psu? My psu is corsair hxi1000 it doesn't come with a male molex connector only female.


you use the connector that has 12v input on it on little label--and no you dont need male to male connector it plugs into psu molex

make sure you havent pressed the led off button if its already connected


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *taem*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *gsan*
> 
> Anyone able to mout d5 photon on primo, the space beside the slot without any modding? mind to post any picture?
> 
> 
> 
> Unicr0nhunter and Pierre3400 both have a lot of experience on fitting the Photon inside the Primo and have shared a lot of info about this in the thread. Like this from Unicr0nhunter
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> They can tell you a lot more but basically, you can use Velcro on the res bracket, or you have to mod, as the holes don't line up. And your gpu has to be 10.5" or less. And it's a tight fit.
Click to expand...

gsan has been asking for a while now about how to mount a Photon in the location on the back of the case - not the reservoir bracket to the right of the mobo - but it seems everyone who has posted that they have managed it has not replied to his request to know more how they did it.

All I can say is that I'm aware that a Photon will not fit there with wider cards, but how wide I'm not sure. I just recall several people have mentioned here in this thread and elsewhere on OCN it wouldn't fit because their card(s) was (were) too wide that it didn't leave enough space between the card(s) and the side panel for the wider-than-normal tube res.

I also can see that the predrilled holes there will not line up with the Photon so it looks like it would pose some small issues with mounting there even if it will fit with your card(s). The fact the mounting location is recessed and not solid - it has a hex mesh grill pattern - means it won't lend itself well to double-sided tape or velcro to just stick the res/pump in place. Will the holes in a Photon 170's mounting plate line up with some of the hex grill holes so it can just be screwed in place with some washers and no modding? I dunno. Maybe. Maybe not. At the most I suspect you might have to drill a few holes to mount it there, and like I said, that's if the Photon will even fit with your card(s).

Unless / until someone that has managed to mount a Photon back there replies to gsan with some more details as to how they did it, he's not going to know for sure, and even then if gsan's GPUs are not any wider than theirs.


----------



## taem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> gsan has been asking for a while now about how to mount a Photon in the location on the back of the case - not the reservoir bracket to the right of the mobo - but it seems everyone who has posted that they have managed it has not replied to his request to know more how they did it.
> 
> All I can say is that I'm aware that a Photon will not fit there with wider cards, but how wide I'm not sure. I just recall several people have mentioned here in this thread and elsewhere on OCN it wouldn't fit because their card(s) was (were) too wide that it didn't leave enough space between the card(s) and the side panel for the wider-than-normal tube res.


Ah. I would have termed that in front of the slots, not side, so I was confused. I asked about this very same issue a while back, my concern was the projecting part of the gpu blocks that has the ports, someone replied with a pic showing that it fits. Though it would depend on the block I imagine, and might preclude the use of a flow bridge. It's back there somewhere in this thread.
Quote:


> I also can see that the predrilled holes there will not line up with the Photon so it looks like it would pose some small issues with mounting there even if it will fit with your card(s). The fact the mounting location is recessed and not solid - it has a hex mesh grill pattern - means it won't lend itself well to double-sided tape or velcro to just stick the res/pump in place. Will the holes in a Photon 170's mounting plate line up with some of the hex grill holes so it can just be screwed in place with some washers and no modding? I dunno. Maybe. Maybe not. At the most I suspect you might have to drill a few holes to mount it there, and like I said, that's if the Photon will even fit with your card(s)..


I posted this here earlier



I took a tape measure and applied those mounting holes to the rear of my primo and the screw holes are pretty much perfectly centered on those hexagonal mesh holes. You'd need a washer to prevent the screw head from slipping through, but I'm pretty sure the photon mount would screw into the rear of the case with no drilling needed. It's the fit between the gpu blocks and the side panel that I think is the issue, and there, again, someone posted a pic of their photon mounted that way. There are build logs out there that show the same.


----------



## Raskolnikov

Hi,

I'm seeking to acquire a Phantek Enthoo Primo; it looks like a great case that can last a decade. However, I haven't chosen between air and water cooling yet. I'm not that confident around computer hardware, so I asked NCIX Canada for a liquid cooling quote, which I'm supposed to receive during the week. (FrozenCPU is way too much expensive, especially with S&H)

The case is back-ordered everywhere, so I have time to make my mind. From a strictly air cooling standpoint, what would make sense? I was thinking about maybe keeping the included stock fans and adding on top of it, 5 additional PH-F140SP 140mm fans. Don't see much worth in 120mm ones. Would that be sufficient, or way past the law of diminishing returns?

Budget: money not really an issue.

Specs:
ASUS Rampage IV Extreme
Intel i7 4930K 6-Core 3.4Ghz
(2x) G.Skill 8GB DDR3 (9-9-9-24)
(2x) Gigabyte G1 GTX 980 4GB
750W X-treme Rosewill PSU
1x Seagate SSD 250GB
1x Seagate SSHD 4TB
1x Seagate HDD 1TB (probably dumped during transfer)
2x DVD drive (one dumped during transfer)


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Raskolnikov*
> 
> Hi,
> 
> I'm seeking to acquire a Phantek Enthoo Primo; it looks like a great case that can last a decade. However, I haven't chosen between air and water cooling yet. I'm not that confident around computer hardware, so I asked NCIX Canada for a liquid cooling quote, which I'm supposed to receive during the week. (FrozenCPU is way too much expensive, especially with S&H)
> 
> The case is back-ordered everywhere, so I have time to make my mind. From a strictly air cooling standpoint, what would make sense? I was thinking about maybe keeping the included stock fans and adding on top of it, 5 additional PH-F140SP 140mm fans. Don't see much worth in 120mm ones. Would that be sufficient, or way past the law of diminishing returns?
> 
> Budget: money not really an issue.
> 
> Specs:
> ASUS Rampage IV Extreme
> Intel i7 4930K 6-Core 3.4Ghz
> (2x) G.Skill 8GB DDR3 (9-9-9-24)
> (2x) Gigabyte G1 GTX 980 4GB
> 750W X-treme Rosewill PSU
> 1x Seagate SSD 250GB
> 1x Seagate SSHD 4TB
> 1x Seagate HDD 1TB (probably dumped during transfer)
> 2x DVD drive (one dumped during transfer)


If you don't plan on going all out on water cooling and don't want to wait for the case enthoo pro and luxe out amazing options and half the price. It's a good start if your not a computer techie. Put the extra 100 to your gpu or whatever else. I'm only saying this if you don't wanna wait for the back ordered case


----------



## Darkness Sakura

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Raskolnikov*
> 
> Hi,
> 
> I'm seeking to acquire a Phantek Enthoo Primo; it looks like a great case that can last a decade. However, I haven't chosen between air and water cooling yet. I'm not that confident around computer hardware, so I asked NCIX Canada for a liquid cooling quote, which I'm supposed to receive during the week. (FrozenCPU is way too much expensive, especially with S&H)
> 
> The case is back-ordered everywhere, so I have time to make my mind. From a strictly air cooling standpoint, what would make sense? I was thinking about maybe keeping the included stock fans and adding on top of it, 5 additional PH-F140SP 140mm fans. Don't see much worth in 120mm ones. Would that be sufficient, or way past the law of diminishing returns?
> 
> Budget: money not really an issue.
> 
> Specs:
> ASUS Rampage IV Extreme
> Intel i7 4930K 6-Core 3.4Ghz
> (2x) G.Skill 8GB DDR3 (9-9-9-24)
> (2x) Gigabyte G1 GTX 980 4GB
> 750W X-treme Rosewill PSU
> 1x Seagate SSD 250GB
> 1x Seagate SSHD 4TB
> 1x Seagate HDD 1TB (probably dumped during transfer)
> 2x DVD drive (one dumped during transfer)


Similar to what emsJ86 stated, the others that look nearly the same (just smaller but just as good) will handle what you look like you need. As for the case, may considering trying Newegg, last I've seen on there they are still in stock - both in white and black, unless they don't ship to your location?


----------



## Raskolnikov

Newegg U.S never shipped to Canada. If they did local retailers would go bananas. Huge price disparity: U.S: 220$ (after rebate + shipping) Canada: 275$ USD (5 % Federal tax + shipping)

I thought about getting the Luxe instead, but the wait isn't all that bad, and I want some flexibility for the future.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Raskolnikov*
> 
> Newegg U.S never shipped to Canada. If they did local retailers would go bananas. Huge price disparity: U.S: 220$ (after rebate + shipping) Canada: 275$ USD (5 % Federal tax + shipping)
> 
> I thought about getting the Luxe instead, but the wait isn't all that bad, and I want some flexibility for the future.


Hmmm, why is there a Newegg.ca then?
http://www.newegg.ca/Product/ProductList.aspx?Submit=ENE&DEPA=0&Order=BESTMATCH&Description=enthoo+primo&N=-1&isNodeId=1



That said, the only Primo I saw there was the white one.

edit:
And there's always amazon.ca. They look to have the Primo in black and white ..

http://www.amazon.ca/s/ref=nb_sb_noss/192-3998649-4922339?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=enthoo+primo

lol, but look at the asking price they want for the black one!


----------



## idlesloth

My power button turns off my pc completely. Then 3 seconds later it reboots. I have all the connectors in right pins.


----------



## mcnumpty23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *idlesloth*
> 
> My power button turns off my pc completely. Then 3 seconds later it reboots. I have all the connectors in right pins.


look in the APM section of your bios probably something like power button < 4 seconds

and see what its set to do

should be soft off or power off or similar

if its restart then change it


----------



## welshy46

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Faster_is_better*
> 
> I probably wouldn't have a problem cutting it out, if it isn't going to hurt it structurally or look to terrible. Anyone have pictures of what would have to be cut/modified?
> 
> Edit: Hmm, actually it seems like that whole PSU facade would have to be cut or bent to accommodate the wider reservoir. To bad Phanteks didn't make the case just a tiny bit wider so this would fit basically all radiators.


This vid shows the issue with wider 240mm rads



it might be that you have to cut out a slot in the back of the case to allow a wider rad to go further back into the case.


----------



## welshy46

Let the build commence.


----------



## mcnumpty23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *welshy46*
> 
> Let the build commence.


go for it









my gtx970 just turned up


----------



## gsan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tunz*
> 
> Is this what you mean? This is @f1rest0rm's build. Maybe he can chime in.


yes, this is what i meant. does it can fit without any modding?


----------



## Raskolnikov

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Hmmm, why is there a Newegg.ca then?
> http://www.newegg.ca/Product/ProductList.aspx?Submit=ENE&DEPA=0&Order=BESTMATCH&Description=enthoo+primo&N=-1&isNodeId=1
> 
> 
> 
> That said, the only Primo I saw there was the white one.


That's why I specified "Newegg U.S" -- I know Newegg Canada exists, but it's a different shopping experience. Low inventories, high prices.
Quote:


> edit:
> And there's always amazon.ca. They look to have the Primo in black and white ..
> 
> http://www.amazon.ca/s/ref=nb_sb_noss/192-3998649-4922339?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=enthoo+primo
> 
> lol, but look at the asking price they want for the black one!


Yes, I saw the price gouging of the black one. Not racist, but I don't want the white one.

Going to look at other cases in the meanwhile. (NXZT Phantom 820, Corsair 780T, Corsair 900D, SilverStone FT05)


----------



## Faster_is_better

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *welshy46*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Faster_is_better*
> 
> I probably wouldn't have a problem cutting it out, if it isn't going to hurt it structurally or look to terrible. Anyone have pictures of what would have to be cut/modified?
> 
> Edit: Hmm, actually it seems like that whole PSU facade would have to be cut or bent to accommodate the wider reservoir. To bad Phanteks didn't make the case just a tiny bit wider so this would fit basically all radiators.
> 
> 
> 
> This vid shows the issue with wider 240mm rads
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> it might be that you have to cut out a slot in the back of the case to allow a wider rad to go further back into the case.
Click to expand...

Good review, Thanks.


----------



## welshy46

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Faster_is_better*
> 
> Good review, Thanks.


It might be a good excuse to get a 480 monsta ☺

Now I've had a few hours to play around with this luxe, I've been converted into a Phanteks fanboy. The build quality is way above the asking price, just don't tell Phanteks.


----------



## Darkness Sakura

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *welshy46*
> 
> It might be a good excuse to get a 480 monsta ☺
> 
> Now I've had a few hours to play around with this luxe, I've been converted into a Phanteks fanboy. The build quality is way above the asking price, just don't tell Phanteks.


You and me both, I've always been an Antec guy... they sold me, haven't seen it myself [yet] but I hope the quality isn't too far off.. as for those 480 monstas... going to stuff two of them bad boys in mine... can't wait!


----------



## emsj86

Coming from a corsair 750d my phanteka pro feels and looks better quality at 50-80 dollars less


----------



## Pierre3400

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Coming from a corsair 750d my phanteka pro feels and looks better quality at 50-80 dollars less


I cannot agree on this. I went from Corsair 600T to the Enthoo Primo, and yes the Enthoo has many great touches, but the quality in it finish was far from the same as Corsair. I even have a part in my case that is barely painted black inside. I have sharp edges, panels inside that warp soon as you remove them, which is caused by stressing the plate metals in the wrong way during bending.

But i accept these small issues, cos the case was much cheaper than anything out there vs. the amounts of features it offers.

With time, i am sure the quality will rise on Phanteks cases, but so will the price, but you need to make it into the market before you can mark up the price.


----------



## Spork13

My Phanteks (Pro) is only the second case I've bought.
The first was an old Cooler Master.
The CM was better "quality" being
-all aluminium,
-a removable MB tray about 1/4" thick, and a door from similar materials.
-So solid I could stand on it to reach high up stuff if I needed to.

The Phanteks is "lower quality", being steel and plastic, but:
-Way better fans.
-WAY better cable management (awesome v's non-existant)
-Easier to "customise" the interior layout - HDD caddies etc.
-Considerably easier to do a build in.
-Better air flow / cooling.
-Looks schmick
-Lower $$$
-Solid enough to house computer parts.

I have never felt the need to use my CM as a step-ladder.

I hope Phanteks continue to offer budget cases (as well as high end ones) with awesome features, even if they do make them out of cheaper materials etc.


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pierre3400*
> 
> I cannot agree on this. I went from Corsair 600T to the Enthoo Primo, and yes the Enthoo has many great touches, but the quality in it finish was far from the same as Corsair. I even have a part in my case that is barely painted black inside. I have sharp edges, panels inside that warp soon as you remove them, which is caused by stressing the plate metals in the wrong way during bending.
> 
> But i accept these small issues, cos the case was much cheaper than anything out there vs. the amounts of features it offers.
> 
> With time, i am sure the quality will rise on Phanteks cases, but so will the price, but you need to make it into the market before you can mark up the price.


I'd have to agree with him. can't speak on the enthoo primo vs 600T, but the 750D is lower quality than the 600T, 500R, C70, Enthoo Pro and H440. having used all of these in person I can guarantee as much. though the 750D has more rad space than the Enthoo Pro, so I would have moved to the Luxe or to something else. every panel on the 750D except the front is lighter and thinner compared to the Pro or the C70 and the noise the window panel makes when you hold it in your hands a shake a bit. I did 3 builds in april this year, transferred mine into the H440, a C70 build for one friend and a 750D build for another. my friend with the 750D was kind of shocked when he discovered how much better the build quality was on the C70 and H440. he still wishes he bought a replacement plan. he'd sell the case in a heartbeat and go buy an Enthoo Luxe.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spork13*
> 
> My Phanteks (Pro) is only the second case I've bought.
> The first was an old Cooler Master.
> The CM was better "quality" being
> -all aluminium,
> -a removable MB tray about 1/4" thick, and a door from similar materials.
> -So solid I could stand on it to reach high up stuff if I needed to.
> 
> The Phanteks is "lower quality", being steel and plastic, but:
> -Way better fans.
> -WAY better cable management (awesome v's non-existant)
> -Easier to "customise" the interior layout - HDD caddies etc.
> -Considerably easier to do a build in.
> -Better air flow / cooling.
> -Looks schmick
> -Lower $$$
> -Solid enough to house computer parts.
> 
> I have never felt the need to use my CM as a step-ladder.
> 
> I hope Phanteks continue to offer budget cases (as well as high end ones) with awesome features, even if they do make them out of cheaper materials etc.


Brings back memories. I miss the days when Coolermaster made quality cases. They sure don't anymore, and I say that as someone who has a Cosmos II I'm still using and a HAF X sitting empty

My brother had a Stacker 830 I would have killed for. He dragged it off to college with him and he wasn't in a dorm a few weeks before someone stole it. I watched him growing up have one girl after another break his heart, but the only time i remember him balling his eyes out endlessly was when someone stole his Stacker. To tell the truth I'm pretty sure I shed a tear or two right along with him.


----------



## emsj86

Only thing I wish phanteks had was a case some what like the 900d where you have the bottom side ways mounted rad and grill. Gives a nice look and all your pumps and drains can be hidden away. What other cases 100-150 range if any have the bottom side mount rad space like the 900d?


----------



## Pierre3400

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Only thing I wish phanteks had was a case some what like the 900d where you have the bottom side ways mounted rad and grill. Gives a nice look and all your pumps and drains can be hidden away. What other cases 100-150 range if any have the bottom side mount rad space like the 900d?


Non, a year ago when i was looking for cases, i went everywhere searching. 900D was the cheapest case around to match my wishes. I could find more expensive cases, but not cheaper.

Then i cam across a guy who just bought the Enthoo Primo, I ordered min less than 24hours later, plus enough rad to cool anything i can throw at is.

When i ws running my 4770K + 3x 7970Ghz. My CPU maxed out around 68 clocked to 4,5ghz, during heavens + prime to check the loop max temps, and my fans were still only doing 60 to 65% speed, with watertemp around 37degrees.

So honestly, the Primo should suit you fine, its really need more rad space, your are going to have to pull out the big wallet.

IMO, the 900D is ugly aswell. (I have had 600T and 800D before)


----------



## emsj86

Well since having my kid (he is about to be two) that big wallet is now a small wallet lol


----------



## emsj86

Yeh I think the 90"d is ugly but I like the cases with the side mounted rads. Case labs does it great but they cost a months rent


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Brings back memories. I miss the days when Coolermaster made quality cases. They sure don't anymore, and I say that as someone who has a Cosmos II I'm still using and a HAF X sitting empty
> 
> My brother had a Stacker 830 I would have killed for. He dragged it off to college with him and he wasn't in a dorm a few weeks before someone stole it. I watched him growing up have one girl after another break his heart, but the only time i remember him balling his eyes out endlessly was when someone stole his Stacker. To tell the truth I'm pretty sure I shed a tear or two right along with him.


remember the CM mystique? that was nice. the Stacker 830 and Cosmos S were great.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Only thing I wish phanteks had was a case some what like the 900d where you have the bottom side ways mounted rad and grill. Gives a nice look and all your pumps and drains can be hidden away. What other cases 100-150 range if any have the bottom side mount rad space like the 900d?


The only case I know of in that p[rice range with room for a bottom side mounted rad (and it'll only fit a 360 there unless you mod it) is the ugly as hell HAF Stacker from Coolermaster.

Otherwise, you're probably going to pay more. The 900D sure isn't in the "100-150 range" for a reason. It's a $300 case. You're not going to find something comparable for half that. Best I could think of would be the Primo but it doesn't have a sideways rad at the bottom, it just lets you put a much thicker rad down there instead.

The Little Devil PC-V8 is a really nice case - a LOT nicer than the Corsair 900D - that's somewhat similar and FCPU has had them on sale for ~$300 lately (I assume, until they sell out of them) which is a fraction of what it typically goes for. Heck, that case costs €488 (more than $600) if you buy it straight from ldcooling.


----------



## rh pc

I am now also part of the Enthoo Luxe club. Just arrived, loving the case, however, I am mad at myself for omitting to check certain details...such as space problems when trying to mount a tube reservoir/pump combo. Most of those are 75mm+ in diameter and with my R9 280x video card there is no room for it. That pretty much excludes XSPC AX 360 Photon kit version. Guess if I want a tube res I have to go with a 60mm one and a separate pump, such as Swiftech MCP. I understand the other alternative would be to ignore the provided reservoir mount and install it on top of the PSU shroud which again, not a fan of that solution...

I already have the AX360 kit in my current case but with dual bay pump/res and I would just love a change and use a tube reservoir for the Luxe. The case offers 347mm video card clearance I only get 62.5mm clearance in between video card and end of res. HDD cage removed enables more space but still the video card is also 144mm "deep".

Anything I am missing here? Thanks in advance!


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rh pc*
> 
> I am now also part of the Enthoo Luxe club. Just arrived, loving the case, however, I am mad at myself for omitting to check certain details...such as space problems when trying to mount a tube reservoir/pump combo. Most of those are 75mm+ in diameter and with my R9 280x video card there is no room for it. That pretty much excludes XSPC AX 360 Photon kit version. Guess if I want a tube res I have to go with a 60mm one and a separate pump, such as Swiftech MCP. I understand the other alternative would be to ignore the provided reservoir mount and install it on top of the PSU shroud which again, not a fan of that solution...
> 
> I already have the AX360 kit in my current case but with dual bay pump/res and I would just love a change and use a tube reservoir for the Luxe. The case offers 347mm video card clearance I only get 62.5mm clearance in between video card and end of res. HDD cage removed enables more space but still the video card is also 144mm "deep".
> 
> Anything I am missing here? Thanks in advance!


nope, that's the situation. can't use a tube res more than 60mm thick in either location. I checked this before so i got the bitspower 150 tank which is 60mm thick. the case lacks out of box support for 280 rads in front. the wall that hides the drive bays is too far away from the side panel IMO and they should have made the case a few mm taller so there is more room under the 5.25" bays. that's all really. I would have liked the filteer in front to be attached to the chassis itself and some traditional holes in the back for wc would have been nice.


----------



## Darkness Sakura

Finally receive my Enthoo Primo, the pictures on Google do NOT do it justice... solid build too, was expecting a bit more plastic than I felt, I guess that'd explain the weight during shipment.


----------



## welshy46

Got the main part of the build done today. I still say it's a quality case but I have hit a couple of snags with it The Back corner of the left fan on the 360 alphacool UT45 rad in the roof hits the 8 pin ATX plug so much, I had to cut the corner off the fan to make it fit







.


Also the only way to fit the pwm hub to the CPU header on the board is to do it before you fit the radiator, six fans and 24 screws







. My bad though for not plugging that in firstThe mounting holes have been offset to give more room, but they could have got another 8-10mm without the top fans fowling inside the top cover.

The 140mm EK xtx I put in the back just fits. Like the Primo, a rad like the Hardware labs with their rounded sides would be too wide and stop the door from closing.

Saying that it's still the best case I've had







and then I've had four in the last year







this one is definitely a keeper, unless I buy a primo







.

A few pics, sorry about the quality. I'll do some nice ones when it's finished.







Tomorrow I get to have my first go at rigid tubing







which is nice. Along with adding some more bling to the case. I've also got a sheet of glass effect acrylic coming for a complete window mod. I nearly did a temporary one but after making the acrylic cover for the PSU cover I thought my neighbours had had enough of listening to grinders and dremels.


----------



## welshy46

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rh pc*
> 
> I am now also part of the Enthoo Luxe club. Just arrived, loving the case, however, I am mad at myself for omitting to check certain details...such as space problems when trying to mount a tube reservoir/pump combo. Most of those are 75mm+ in diameter and with my R9 280x video card there is no room for it. That pretty much excludes XSPC AX 360 Photon kit version. Guess if I want a tube res I have to go with a 60mm one and a separate pump, such as Swiftech MCP. I understand the other alternative would be to ignore the provided reservoir mount and install it on top of the PSU shroud which again, not a fan of that solution...
> 
> I already have the AX360 kit in my current case but with dual bay pump/res and I would just love a change and use a tube reservoir for the Luxe. The case offers 347mm video card clearance I only get 62.5mm clearance in between video card and end of res. HDD cage removed enables more space but still the video card is also 144mm "deep".
> 
> Anything I am missing here? Thanks in advance!


Them luxe's sure are perty







I've just put a 360 rad in mine and had some problems. Have a look at my previous post. If you stick with the dual bay res it'll need to go in the bottom 2 slots to miss your 360 rad, You'll also probably have to fit the rad with the ports at the back of case to make tubing it up easier.

As you're going to lose the drive bays to watercooling anyway. You could fit the 360 in the front and hang a tube res horizontally from the roof. Although when I did this with a D5 Photon it did make the pump louder even with the res completely full. You can just squeeze in a photon on the back wall of the case, but you will have to sacrifice the rear exhaust fan or put a spacer behind the mounting bracket to clear the exhaust fan. Whatever you decide on I hope you're having fun with it. One more thing, The data power connector is made from the most brittle plastic known to man. I snapped mine just connecting it. Got it back together but I'll be ordering a different one to replace it.


----------



## Sam60I

Hi,

What sizes of cables do you need make a good cable management on the Luxe?


----------



## viking87

Hey everyone,

Just wanted to run my planned build by you guys and get some recommendations, especially regarding pump and reservoir selection. I've bought the enthoo luxe, and am building an x99 system that I'm planning on water cooling. Main purpose of the computer is to be a quiet 24/7 folder, and to use for everyday use and a little gaming. I've bought most of the components, except the water cooling stuff which I'm new at and I'd like to run it by you guys so I can order in the least amount of shipments possible lol! Here's what I have purchased so far:

Case: Enthoo Luxe
Mobo + CPU: ASUS x99-a and 5820k
GPU MSI 970 4g gaming
SSD: Samsung 850 (will buy one HDD later on for storage)
Bluray drive
PSU: HXi 850 (planned)
Radiator: Alphacool xt45 420

Planning on putting the GPU and CPU under water, so here's the list of things I'm looking at or need recommendations on... and if I'm missing anything please let me know! Biggest question I have is what pump/res should I get that would fit...

CPU block: ek supremacy
gpu block: ek acetal
Pump: Swifttech MCP 655 PWM?
RES: bay or tube? would like the option of space for a second gpu, but not intending to buy one any time soon..
Fittings: trying to go all out for copper tubing








Fans: looking for quiet fans for the xt45 up top, doesn't need to be 'silent'

Any help or suggestions would be much appreciated! I've browsed this thread here and there, but I hope I'm not making anybody have to repeat too much lol. Thanks guys


----------



## Darkness Sakura

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *viking87*
> 
> Hey everyone,
> 
> Just wanted to run my planned build by you guys and get some recommendations, especially regarding pump and reservoir selection. I've bought the enthoo luxe, and am building an x99 system that I'm planning on water cooling. Main purpose of the computer is to be a quiet 24/7 folder, and to use for everyday use and a little gaming. I've bought most of the components, except the water cooling stuff which I'm new at and I'd like to run it by you guys so I can order in the least amount of shipments possible lol! Here's what I have purchased so far:
> 
> Case: Enthoo Luxe
> Mobo + CPU: ASUS x99-a and 5820k
> GPU MSI 970 4g gaming
> SSD: Samsung 850 (will buy one HDD later on for storage)
> Bluray drive
> PSU: HXi 850 (planned)
> Radiator: Alphacool xt45 420
> 
> Planning on putting the GPU and CPU under water, so here's the list of things I'm looking at or need recommendations on... and if I'm missing anything please let me know! Biggest question I have is what pump/res should I get that would fit...
> 
> CPU block: ek supremacy
> gpu block: ek acetal
> Pump: Swifttech MCP 655 PWM?
> RES: bay or tube? would like the option of space for a second gpu, but not intending to buy one any time soon..
> Fittings: trying to go all out for copper tubing
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Fans: looking for quiet fans for the xt45 up top, doesn't need to be 'silent'
> 
> Any help or suggestions would be much appreciated! I've browsed this thread here and there, but I hope I'm not making anybody have to repeat too much lol. Thanks guys


Well if you're planning on going copper, as I'm doing the same, try getting some fittings from here and press from there. There is also a thread, I'm sure you're probably reading/following that explains the bending too of copper/nickel.


----------



## rh pc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PureBlackFire*
> 
> nope, that's the situation. can't use a tube res more than 60mm thick in either location. I checked this before so i got the bitspower 150 tank which is 60mm thick.


Thanks so much!

Ok, the Bitspower Water Tank 150 V2 is very nice and apparently very similar to the Photon 170 minus the glass housing. In fact, Bitspower has several such as the Water Tank Z-Multi 250 that would also work as 270mm in length is quite an easy fit.

Any pump suggestions? The Swiftech MCP 35 should be a perfect fit for that little HDD cage area.


----------



## taem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rh pc*
> 
> Thanks so much!
> 
> Ok, the Bitspower Water Tank 150 V2 is very nice and apparently very similar to the Photon 170 minus the glass housing. In fact, Bitspower has several such as the Water Tank Z-Multi 250 that would also work as 270mm in length is quite an easy fit.


I remember reading something about how the inlet causes a lot of turbulence and you need to add a baffle of some sort to that res. that's what made me decide on ek x3 250 if I don't go xspc photon.


----------



## rh pc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *taem*
> 
> I remember reading something about how the inlet causes a lot of turbulence and you need to add a baffle of some sort to that res. that's what made me decide on ek x3 250 if I don't go xspc photon.


Interesting about the inlet!

The frustration continues to mount though. Why include pump and reservoir bracket when one can't even use it?? Seems that the Ek 250 with 60mm diameter is still too big...not necessarily to wide but too long rather. The darn R9 280x takes up too much room. If I were to move the res higher up to clear the video card I run into the fans from the radiator on top.

I am only cooling the CPU for now, so would a smaller such as 150mm still have enough capacity. I don't want to take a step down, my XSPC D5 has 274ml capacity and I want to at least match that. Just cannot seem to find a tube res, unless would it be possible to mount the res to the right of the mobo directly against the case wall, covering the rubber cable grommets?

Hmm, after seeing Mumbles37's build where he used a Photon 270 and put it on top of the PSU shroud I was surprised how much I like it







I would only need the Photon 170 so that might be the solution for me. I guess last resort would be to remove the hard drives cover that has the Phanteks logo on it as well. That will give more than enough space


----------



## Spork13

What are you plugging in?
ie: Does your MB have an extra 6 or 8 pin plug?
GPU's?
Other stuff???

I have the Pro, which I believe is quite similar internally to the Luxe. I bought sleeved extensions fo the 24 ATX, the 8 pin MB power, and 2 x 8pin + 2 x 6pin for GPU's.
I'm fairly happy with the end result.

http://s808.photobucket.com/user/Sporkitus/media/PA071327_zps0f701b01.jpg.html
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sam60I*
> 
> Hi,
> 
> What sizes of cables do you need make a good cable management on the Luxe?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sam60I*


----------



## kenshihimura

Hi guys,

I register at this forum just to ask this. Is it possible to put a 200mm fans on the top part of Enthoo Pro? The website and manual says can but none of the screws are supporting it. Any idea?


----------



## welshy46

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kenshihimura*
> 
> Hi guys,
> 
> I register at this forum just to ask this. Is it possible to put a 200mm fans on the top part of Enthoo Pro? The website and manual says can but none of the screws are supporting it. Any idea?


The luxe shares exactly the same chassis as the pro, I had a quick measure and the tape measure says no. The distance from the motherboard tray to the from of the case is 195mm. 180mm fans will fit and sit just inside of the mounting holes for the top panel. You will have to make your own mounting holes for the fan.


----------



## kenshihimura

Awww...if that's the case I gotta replace with 2 x 120mm fans. Another question. What does the PWM hub do? Is it to control the casing fans using software like Speedfan?It should work on non PWM fans right?


----------



## welshy46

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kenshihimura*
> 
> Awww...if that's the case I gotta replace with 2 x 120mm fans. Another question. What does the PWM hub do? Is it to control the casing fans using software like Speedfan?It should work on non PWM fans right?


You can put 2x180mm fans in the roof if you are not putting a rad up there. They'll make less noise than 2x120mm will at the same cfpm.

The PWM hub works by taking the signal from CPU fan header on the motherboard to control the fan speed of non PWM fans. It powers the fans straight off your PSU by plugging into a SATA power connector. To personalise your cooling requirements you then set up your fans through the motherboards BIOS or fan control program


----------



## Sam60I

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spork13*
> 
> What are you plugging in?
> ie: Does your MB have an extra 6 or 8 pin plug?
> GPU's?
> Other stuff???
> 
> I have the Pro, which I believe is quite similar internally to the Luxe. I bought sleeved extensions fo the 24 ATX, the 8 pin MB power, and 2 x 8pin + 2 x 6pin for GPU's.
> I'm fairly happy with the end result.
> 
> http://s808.photobucket.com/user/Sporkitus/media/PA071327_zps0f701b01.jpg.html
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Sam60I*
> 
> 
> 
> I'm planning to buy some sleeved cables. One CPU 8 pin, one 24pin and one 8 pin for the GPU. I'll connect those cables to a MVI Formula which I don't think has a second 8 pin connector, to the GPU and I plan to make a SLI setup later on. I want to rout all the cable behind the motherboard tray. There's two sizes for the cables, 30cm and 60cm. What size should I get and what size is your 24 pin connector? Oh and btw, your rig looks pretty nice. Thanks for your help.
Click to expand...


----------



## welshy46

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sam60I*
> 
> I'm planning to buy some sleeved cables. One CPU 8 pin, one 24pin and one 8 pin for the GPU. I'll connect those cables to a MVI Formula which I don't think has a second 8 pin connector, to the GPU and I plan to make a SLI setup later on. I want to rout all the cable behind the motherboard tray. There's two sizes for the cables, 30cm and 60cm. What size should I get and what size is your 24 pin connector? Oh and btw, your rig looks pretty nice. Thanks for your help.


The 30cm extensions should be more than enough as they just plug into the ends of your PSU cables. I haven't bothered to use an 8 pin CPU sleeved extension as you can't see it in my case and the Corsair PSU 8 pin can reach.


----------



## Sam60I

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *welshy46*
> 
> The 30cm extensions should be more than enough as they just plug into the ends of your PSU cables. I haven't bothered to use an 8 pin CPU sleeved extension as you can't see it in my case and the Corsair PSU 8 pin can reach.


I'm not using extension. My psu is modular so I'm plugging the cables directly in the psu. 60cm then?


----------



## LandonAaron

You will need more like 90 CM if you are going to try to run direct from PSU. 30cm is basically one foot, not very long. You might be able to get 60CM to reach depending on the case, just don't be surprised if it doesn't.


----------



## ZarosTenjin

Hey guys,

i'm looking to buy an Enthoo Luxe but i've got a question about the top rad spot in conjuction with a dual bay res in a certain configuration.

What i want to do is install a 420mm rad in the top spot. What i want to know is if i can have the ports of the rad in the front of the case and still reach the dual bay res and if yes how thick is the rad allowed to be (45mm 60mm are my main concerns)

The size of the bay res is 147mm x 84mm x 85mm (W x H x D).

I've scribbled the setup i want to try in paint:


http://imgur.com/N41Chuu


And the color code is:
blue = fans
orange = rad
red = tubing
solid red = fittings and tube to tube 90° fitting
purple = dual bayres

I only sketched it just to illustrate what i want to do. I think its well enough to make my intentions clear, heh.

Thanks for reading! 8D

Cheers,
Zaros


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZarosTenjin*
> 
> Hey guys,
> 
> i'm looking to buy an Enthoo Luxe but i've got a question about the top rad spot in conjuction with a dual bay res in a certain configuration.
> 
> What i want to do is install a 420mm rad in the top spot. What i want to know is if i can have the ports of the rad in the front of the case and still reach the dual bay res and if yes how thick is the rad allowed to be (45mm 60mm are my main concerns)
> 
> The size of the bay res is 147mm x 84mm x 85mm (W x H x D).
> 
> I've scribbled the setup i want to try in paint:
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/N41Chuu
> 
> 
> And the color code is:
> blue = fans
> orange = rad
> red = tubing
> solid red = fittings and tube to tube 90° fitting
> purple = dual bayres
> 
> I only sketched it just to illustrate what i want to do. I think its well enough to make my intentions clear, heh.
> 
> Thanks for reading! 8D
> 
> Cheers,
> Zaros


I think you're fine, depending on the fittings you use. I installed a 60mm thick 360 rad and had two mechanical drives with brackets in the bottom two optical bays.

edit: you would be fine with a 45mm thick rad, but more so than height clearance you'd have to possibly work around the front panel cables.


----------



## ZarosTenjin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PureBlackFire*
> 
> I think you're fine, depending on the fittings you use. I installed a 60mm thick 360 rad and had two mechanical drives with brackets in the bottom two optical bays.
> 
> edit: you would be fine with a 45mm thick rad, but more so than height clearance you'd have to possibly work around the front panel cables.


thanks i have my plans for the cables and i think that will make it work, aiming for a 420/45mm then!

EDIT: wow it is hard to find a 45 mm thick 420mm rad  the only one i found seems to be the XT45 from alphacool but its nowhere available :/ Would a 55mm still fit or is that centimeter too much?


----------



## Ghost12

nvm -delete


----------



## kush621

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *welshy46*
> 
> Got the main part of the build done today. I still say it's a quality case but I have hit a couple of snags with it The Back corner of the left fan on the 360 alphacool UT45 rad in the roof hits the 8 pin ATX plug so much, I had to cut the corner off the fan to make it fit
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> 
> Also the only way to fit the pwm hub to the CPU header on the board is to do it before you fit the radiator, six fans and 24 screws
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . My bad though for not plugging that in firstThe mounting holes have been offset to give more room, but they could have got another 8-10mm without the top fans fowling inside the top cover.
> 
> The 140mm EK xtx I put in the back just fits. Like the Primo, a rad like the Hardware labs with their rounded sides would be too wide and stop the door from closing.
> 
> Saying that it's still the best case I've had
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and then I've had four in the last year
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> this one is definitely a keeper, unless I buy a primo
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> A few pics, sorry about the quality. I'll do some nice ones when it's finished.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tomorrow I get to have my first go at rigid tubing
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> which is nice. Along with adding some more bling to the case. I've also got a sheet of glass effect acrylic coming for a complete window mod. I nearly did a temporary one but after making the acrylic cover for the PSU cover I thought my neighbours had had enough of listening to grinders and dremels.


Is your Luxe silver, or is that just the lighting? Can you take some close ups of your fan grills on the front and the top. Those look awesome.


----------



## welshy46

@Kush621 Cheers, it looks better in the flesh than on my potato cam pics. it's a black one. I removed the metal outer covers on the top and front and covered them in brushed aluminium effect vinyl.

The fan grills are from MNPCtech. The top is a mirror finish I put in by cutting out the plastic grill of the original and popped the new one in. The front is also from MNPCtech but I covered it in 4D carbon effect vynil as then cut out around the steam punk design. I just removed the front fan cover and stuck it to the 4 posts with double sided foam tape.

I tried to get some better shots of the grills, but I only have the camera on my phone. Once it's finished I'll get some decent ones.



I removed the filter mesh to try to get a clearer pic.


Only one to go.


Nearly there


----------



## tsm106

Hey guys, has anyone done a Primo with dual 480 rads and dual psu?


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tsm106*
> 
> Hey guys, has anyone done a Primo with dual 480 rads and dual psu?


Not that I've seen yet. Jesse @ TheModZoo confirmed it's possible to fit a second PSU in the case though.

Not really something I'd do. I imagine the second PSU would need to exhaust all of its heat into the case which doesn't sound like a good idea at all to me. If I was doing a build that required dual PSUs there's a lot better cases for that than the Primo I'd go with.


----------



## kush621

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *welshy46*
> 
> @Kush621 Cheers, it looks better in the flesh than on my potato cam pics. it's a black one. I removed the metal outer covers on the top and front and covered them in brushed aluminium effect vinyl.
> 
> The fan grills are from MNPCtech. The top is a mirror finish I put in by cutting out the plastic grill of the original and popped the new one in. The front is also from MNPCtech but I covered it in 4D carbon effect vynil as then cut out around the steam punk design. I just removed the front fan cover and stuck it to the 4 posts with double sided foam tape.
> 
> I tried to get some better shots of the grills, but I only have the camera on my phone. Once it's finished I'll get some decent ones.
> 
> 
> 
> I removed the filter mesh to try to get a clearer pic.
> 
> 
> Only one to go.
> 
> 
> Nearly there


Thanks for clearing that up. Can't wait to see some better pics.


----------



## tsm106

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *tsm106*
> 
> Hey guys, has anyone done a Primo with dual 480 rads and dual psu?
> 
> 
> 
> Not that I've seen yet. Jesse @ TheModZoo confirmed it's possible to fit a second PSU in the case though.
> 
> Not really something I'd do. I imagine the second PSU would need to exhaust all of its heat into the case which doesn't sound like a good idea at all to me. If I was doing a build that required dual PSUs there's a lot better cases for that than the Primo I'd go with.
Click to expand...

Possible... you can mod a 2nd psu into a lot of cases, just like I did with my 700D. On the Primo from what I can tell, there is room in the front and the door panel already has a grill for intake. The front vents are not important in this loop. I expected this already so have a 2ft right angle extension ready. The female plug end I will mount and fix under the 1st psu.

I looked and there were none that fit my needs. 900D you have mod the hell out of it too, but then its even larger. I'm limited to under 26" total height so it was the Primo. And I dislike 150lb setups like Caselabs. Thus w/o spending a fortune on a case, the two choices were 900D or Primo. I went with the Primo because it looks like it requires the least modding to get me dual psu and dual 480s installed.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tsm106*
> 
> Possible... you can mod a 2nd psu into a lot of cases, just like I did with my 700D. On the Primo from what I can tell, there is room in the front and the door panel already has a grill for intake. The front vents are not important in this loop. I expected this already so have a 2ft right angle extension ready. The female plug end I will mount and fix under the 1st psu.
> 
> I looked and there were none that fit my needs. 900D you have mod the hell out of it too, but then its even larger. I'm limited to under 26" total height so it was the Primo. And *I dislike 150lb setups like Caselabs*. Thus w/o spending a fortune on a case, the two choices were 900D or Primo. I went with the Primo because it looks like it requires the least modding to get me dual psu and dual 480s installed.


lol, the Primo and 900D weigh a lot more than most Caselabs cases, with the latter being all aluminum. For example a Merlin SM8 is only 9kg/20lbs and a Magnum SMA8 is only 12kg/27lbs. Light as a feather compared to the 20kg/44lb Primo or 19kg/41lb 900D.


----------



## tsm106

So I take you just want to argue, and pick your points to argue with that have no relevance to me?


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Not wanting to argue. You're just the first person I've ever seen infer that Caselabs cases are heavy, and in comparison to tanks like the 900D and Primo I found it a little funny and something that should earn a correction lest someone else read your comment and think that. Your the one who brought up their weight, but a response to it has no relevance to you.. Umm, ok.


----------



## kenshihimura

Hi guys, I connect all the 3 pin casing fans to the PWM hub. What kind of software can I use to control the fans? Speedfan doesn't seem like working...or does it?

And the filter is too thick until I could not see much light from my LED casing fans XD


----------



## welshy46

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kenshihimura*
> 
> Hi guys, I connect all the 3 pin casing fans to the PWM hub. What kind of software can I use to control the fans? Speedfan doesn't seem like working...or does it?
> 
> And the filter is too thick until I could not see much light from my LED casing fans XD


The fan controls in your BIOS. You should have the pwm signal cable from the hub connected to the CPU fan header on whatever mobo you decline to mention you have to give us a chance of helping.







Once you have told us that we might be able to help. There will be a section in your mobo's instruction manual on how to control pwm fans if it is able to do it. Have a read of the FAQ on page one of this thread. Doyll did a great job of explaining how it all works. Tha FAQ is for the Primo, but the pwm hub is the same in the luxe and pro.


----------



## Bill Owen

Very cool idea with the Steampunk grills.... Thanks for sharing it


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

So cool to see Bill Owen posting here.









- - - - -

This may be of interest to many here who have struggled with fitting a tube reservoir in Phanteks cases which has been a real issue for a lot of people especially those with longer / wider cards. Bitspower's coming out with a new 'compact' line of their Water Tank Z Multi reservoirs that are only 50mm diameter ...

http://www.overclock.net/t/1525346/bitspower-water-tank-z-multi-compact-150-200-250-300-black-acrylic-version/


----------



## welshy46

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bill Owen*
> 
> Very cool idea with the Steampunk grills.... Thanks for sharing it


Thanks Bill, it's a hard job not to make a build look better with a couple of your most excellent grills. And tell Jesse I'd already thought of the front panel mod just before he brought it up in the video, honest







admittedly the rest of the ideas I got from the mod zoo vids









Anyone on this side of the pond wanting one more than the usual wire grills can get them from the guys at Kustompc up in bonny Scotland http://www.kustompcs.co.uk/

Finished the grills. I've been that caught up in learning to bend acrylic tube I nearly forgot about the 120mm steam punk grill for the rear 140mm. Finished in warehouse orange enamel paint.


----------



## welshy46

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> So cool to see Bill Owen posting here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I got a little giddy when I read his post lol. Bill Owen said I've had a really cool idea
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just came to fit my SSHD and HDD then remembered all the drive have been weighed. They're made of some quality steel for a £120 case. I went through 2 reinforced dremel cutting discs cutting out a slot for the 280mm radon the bottom of the 5.25 bay before deciding it was easier to ditch the whole thing.
> 
> If like me you have a 20mm 3.5" sshd and are wondering where to stick it. I fixed one of the drive cages to where the SSD mount is and then clipped in the drive. Note a standard thickness 3.5 won't clear the door.


----------



## shremi

Guys do we have a phanteks representative on the forum????

I contacted support via email since last week and got no answer ....

Thanks


----------



## VulgarDisplay88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shremi*
> 
> Guys do we have a phanteks representative on the forum????
> 
> I contacted support via email since last week and got no answer ....
> 
> Thanks


Not sure if we have a rep. I contacted them last week and received a reply within 2 days.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shremi*
> 
> Guys do we have a phanteks representative on the forum????
> 
> I contacted support via email since last week and got no answer ....
> 
> Thanks


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VulgarDisplay88*
> 
> Not sure if we have a rep. I contacted them last week and received a reply within 2 days.


Until recently @brian-phanteks was the in house rep.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

I suppose I could be mistaken but I don't think Brian was ever an _official_ OCN rep for Phanteks. OCN requires reps to pay a rather large sum to represent a product brand on here, more than many companies are willing to pay. I suspect that's why he hasn't been more active here and/or able to address questions posted specifically hoping for a response from a rep, as opposed to just bouncing in every now and then with a helpful reply to a question / problem that was posted in general just as any regular OCN member can. I'm not sure what all OCN's rules are about reps but have gotten the impression that they are pretty strict about it.

If you want / need a timely response from Phanteks you're best off to use their 'live chat' feature on the Phanteks site's support tab when it is active or else call them during their posted working hours. I've had much better luck that way than I have had going through their email which is a bit hit & miss. Or if you're just looking for a response from a Phanteks rep you should probably post in the Phanteks forum.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shremi*
> 
> Guys do we have a phanteks representative on the forum????
> 
> I contacted support via email since last week and got no answer ....
> 
> Thanks


Depends on where you are. Brian is American customer service rep .. both North and South America. For EU send an email to [email protected]
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VulgarDisplay88*
> 
> Not sure if we have a rep. I contacted them last week and received a reply within 2 days.


Their USA service rep (brian-phanteks) is on here, but haven't notice him here lately .
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Until recently @brian-phanteks was the in house rep.


brian-phanteks still is as of a month ago.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> I suppose I could be mistaken but I don't think Brian was ever an _official_ OCN rep for Phanteks. OCN requires reps to pay a rather large sum to represent a product brand on here, more than many companies are willing to pay. I suspect that's why he hasn't been more active here and/or able to address questions posted specifically hoping for a response from a rep, as opposed to just bouncing in every now and then with a helpful reply to a question / problem that was posted in general just as any regular OCN member can. I'm not sure what all OCN's rules are about reps but have gotten the impression that they are pretty strict about it.
> 
> If you want / need a timely response from Phanteks you're best off to use their 'live chat' feature on the Phanteks site's support tab when it is active or else call them during their posted working hours. I've had much better luck that way than I have had going through their email which is a bit hit & miss. Or if you're just looking for a response from a Phanteks rep you should probably post in the Phanteks forum.


I didn't realize OCN wanted money from companys' customer support reps if they registered and answered questions. That is just plain counter-productive to what forums are all about.









I can kinda understand if it was just sales reps, but customer support? No way.


----------



## Gabrielzm

That´s why I said until recently @doyll, because I have not seen him around lately but it sure had the hardware rep thing over his name so to me he was a Rep for Phanteks here at OCN.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> That´s why I said until recently @doyll, because I have not seen him around lately but it sure had the hardware rep thing over his name so to me he was a Rep for Phanteks here at OCN.


Brian is the head of Customer Service for PhanteksUSA. I do not believe he is a sales rep .. but that may be the only way he can be on the forum.

He was online here about an hour ago.


----------



## brian-phanteks

There needs to be a stealth login for me.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Brian is the head of Customer Service for PhanteksUSA. I do not believe he is a sales rep .. but that may be the only way he can be on the forum.
> 
> He was online here about an hour ago.


Yes. I am official. However no sales promotions allowed.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brian-phanteks*
> 
> There needs to be a stealth login for me.
> Yes. I am official. However no sales promotions allowed.


I knew you were stalking us!


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brian-phanteks*
> 
> There needs to be a stealth login for me.
> Yes. I am official. However no sales promotions allowed.


thanks for these amazing cases at groundbreaking prices


----------



## shremi

Thanks for all of the replys guys support finally replied my email .... and Brian contacted me via PM

Don't want to take this into the thread but i am very disappointed with the build quality of my Primo honestly i had to pay shipping fees and importing fees for the case .... and then had a couple of broken pieces and still i am going to have to pay another amount for the replacement parts and another outrageous shipping fee.









For the total amount i payed i might aswell have gone with a caselabs


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shremi*
> 
> Thanks for all of the replys guys support finally replied my email .... and Brian contacted me via PM
> 
> Don't want to take this into the thread but i am very disappointed with the build quality of my Primo honestly i had to pay shipping fees and importing fees for the case .... and then had a couple of broken pieces and still i am going to have to pay another amount for the replacement parts and another outrageous shipping fee.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For the total amount i payed i might aswell have gone with a caselabs


that's unfortunate to hear however shipping and the subsequent handling doesn't really fall under build quality however I can see how it has been very frustrating... I'm fortunate to live in an area that everything is easy to get and return if there are issues...I can't imagine some of the exorbitant fees that are levied in terms of shipping and import taxing and fees...


----------



## welshy46

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brian-phanteks*
> 
> There needs to be a stealth login for me.
> Yes. I am official. However no sales promotions allowed.


No need, your cases are selling themselves. Obviously I was joking before that you could charge more for them.









Ended up Macgvering mine together after a total rigid tube bending fail. It looks a lot easier in the videos. Ordered some more hard tube but have to wait a week for it. And there's no way I can go that long with just this nexus tablet. It definitley can't play Crysis.

What do you paranoid about leaks. Me, no.


----------



## HyperC

Lol i got to ask on the luxe any problems with a 480 radiator on top


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HyperC*
> 
> Lol i got to ask on the luxe any problems with a 480 radiator on top


I suspect you mean a 360 or a 420. I don't think anyone's going to fit a 480 in the top of a Luxe or a Pro.


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HyperC*
> 
> Lol i got to ask on the luxe any problems with a 480 radiator on top


is complete lack of support a problem?


----------



## Pierre3400

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *welshy46*
> 
> Ended up Macgvering mine together after a total rigid tube bending fail. It looks a lot easier in the videos. Ordered some more hard tube but have to wait a week for it. And there's no way I can go that long with just this nexus tablet. It definitley can't play Crysis.


Funny, while doing mine with solid tubes, i ordered tubes, and missed the fact that is was 2x tubes per order. I thought 4 tubes would be enough, lucky when i got them, it was a total of 8 tubes at 500mm.

Now, it looked easy on the videos and i made a jig and everything, funny part is, i ended up ordering another pack of 2x 500mm. A few of the first tubes when to practice and mistakes when measuring for where to bend.


----------



## Pierre3400

Would anyone be able to provide me with a photo of the PWM to PWM cable for the pwm hub?

Phanteks were suppose to mail me one, but they seem to have no idea what a PWM to PWM is, and i was sent a regular 3pin fan splitter.

I have looked at all the reviews i can find online, and no one has a photo to this cable, only when its plugged in, i need a lose photo of it.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pierre3400*
> 
> Would anyone be able to provide me with a photo of the PWM to PWM cable for the pwm hub?
> 
> Phanteks were suppose to mail me one, but they seem to have no idea what a PWM to PWM is, and i was sent a regular 3pin fan splitter.
> 
> I have looked at all the reviews i can find online, and no one has a photo to this cable, only when its plugged in, i need a lose photo of it.


Here's the PWM cable that came with my Primo ...




EDIT: If you are going to send them one or both of these you will probably want to make sure to click on the image and then the 'Original' button below it for an image with enough size & detail to actually see it. Wish I could have gotten you some better pics than this but that's the best I could do with this decade + old camera.


----------



## Nitemare15

Guys I need some help decided between the Luxe and the Primo. This is my setup as it stands:

Intel Core i5-4670K 3.4GHz Quad-Core

Corsair H75 54.0 CFM Liquid

ASRock Fatal1ty Z87 Killer ATX LGA1150

G.Skill Sniper Gaming Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-1866

Samsung 840 Pro Series 256GB 2.5" SSD

Samsung Spinpoint F1 DT 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM
Samsung Spinpoint F1 DT 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM

EVGA GeForce GTX 980 4GB Superclocked ACX 2.0
EVGA GeForce GTX 980 4GB Superclocked ACX 2.0

Cooler Master HAF 922 ATX Mid Tower

SeaSonic 850W ATX12V / EPS12V

Sony 5280S-CB-PLUS DVD/CD Writer

I don't know if I will be building a custom LC loop because on air the GPUs stay very cool and the CPU is on a closed loop Corsair cooler. Just doesn't make sense. Also I have a question about the PWM hub that comes with the Luxe and the Primo. When I get either of these cases, I plan on buying additional fans to fill the case and also to replace the existing fans on the Corsair H75 as I want all of the fans to match. My question is when I buy these new fans do I need to buy PWM style fans or will buying standard fans and hooking them up to the PWM hub work just as well?


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

@Nitemare15
If you are sure you're not going to build a custom loop then the extra space the Primo has might not be needed seeing as all that you mentioned I believe would fit in a Luxe just as well. As far as the Phanteks hub goes it is designed to work with 3-pin voltage controlled (non-PWM) fans, not 4-pin PWM fans.


----------



## Nitemare15

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> @Nitemare15
> If you are sure you're not going to build a custom loop then the extra space the Primo has might not be needed seeing as all that you mentioned I believe would fit in a Luxe just as well. As far as the Phanteks hub goes it is designed to work with 3-pin voltage controlled (non-PWM) fans, not 4-pin PWM fans.


Okay so it won't even work with the Phanteks PWM fans. That's good to know as those are more expensive haha And yeah I'm not sure on whether I'll do a custom loop or not. If I do it will just be for the two SLI 980s. I will most likely keep the CPU on the closed loop Corsair cooler as it would be a waste to not have it on a CPU sitting in a box in my closet. Also (and I know this isn't about the Phanteks case but I feel like you guys could answer it for me) I am looking to upgrade to a Z97 mobo. I would like a red and black color scheme. Would you have any recommendations for that?


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nitemare15*
> 
> Guys I need some help decided between the Luxe and the Primo. This is my setup as it stands:
> 
> Intel Core i5-4670K 3.4GHz Quad-Core
> 
> Corsair H75 54.0 CFM Liquid
> 
> ASRock Fatal1ty Z87 Killer ATX LGA1150
> 
> G.Skill Sniper Gaming Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-1866
> 
> Samsung 840 Pro Series 256GB 2.5" SSD
> 
> Samsung Spinpoint F1 DT 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM
> Samsung Spinpoint F1 DT 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM
> 
> EVGA GeForce GTX 980 4GB Superclocked ACX 2.0
> EVGA GeForce GTX 980 4GB Superclocked ACX 2.0
> 
> Cooler Master HAF 922 ATX Mid Tower
> 
> SeaSonic 850W ATX12V / EPS12V
> 
> Sony 5280S-CB-PLUS DVD/CD Writer
> 
> I don't know if I will be building a custom LC loop because on air the GPUs stay very cool and the CPU is on a closed loop Corsair cooler. Just doesn't make sense. Also I have a question about the PWM hub that comes with the Luxe and the Primo. When I get either of these cases, I plan on buying additional fans to fill the case and also to replace the existing fans on the Corsair H75 as I want all of the fans to match. My question is when I buy these new fans do I need to buy PWM style fans or will buying standard fans and hooking them up to the PWM hub work just as well?


Luxe is probably big enough for your needs. The Primo is quite big.


----------



## welshy46

I hope today doesn't turn out to be my groundhog day. Had my first fatality today, make that 3







after my loop decide to have a little wee right onto the motherboard. Which then dribbled onto my 290x and PCI-e slot. As you can see from the pic, neither the card or the PCI-e SSD below it stood a chance. On the bright side I never liked the Gigabyte z87x oc much. I was quite fond of the card and SSD though. Surprisingly the board still works, just not those two lanes. I tested the third lane with a sacrificial ATi 4890.

I've been out and got an MSI R9 290x which is sitting quite quietly in the 3rd slot, it's noticably quieter than the Gigabyte one I had with it's original reference cooler. it'll be even quieter when I get the water block on it. I've also ordered a new board, Yoyotech are selling Z97 sabretooth's for £99.99. Hopefully it should be here before the weekend and I can start another build in this case.


----------



## Pierre3400

That looks pain full.

Did you skip the good old 8 to 24 hour leak test?


----------



## welshy46

There was a number of words said I couldn't posibly repeat on here. But life goes on and we live and learn







it was on test since yesterday lunchtime. I moved it onto the desk this morning and left it on till lunchtime just in case I had disturbed anything. I carried it more carefully than a nervous father with his first born. Still every cloud and that. An Asus sabretooth for 100 quid. I've always preferred Asus. I was only tempted by the orangyness of the Gigabyte. I'll stick it on ebay, someone will buy it. Even though I will list what's wrong with it and how it happened. The third and fourth slots are working. Just not the x16 lanes.


----------



## Spork13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nitemare15*
> 
> ...snip... I am looking to upgrade to a Z97 mobo. I would like a red and black color scheme. Would you have any recommendations for that?


I was also looking for a black and red Z97 MB, and couldn't go past the ASUS ROG Ranger.
The Hero was also tempting, but about $40 more locally, and the Ranger is plenty for my needs.


----------



## LandonAaron

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *welshy46*
> 
> I hope today doesn't turn out to be my groundhog day. Had my first fatality today, make that 3
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> after my loop decide to have a little wee right onto the motherboard. Which then dribbled onto my 290x and PCI-e slot. As you can see from the pic, neither the card or the PCI-e SSD below it stood a chance. On the bright side I never liked the Gigabyte z87x oc much. I was quite fond of the card and SSD though. Surprisingly the board still works, just not those two lanes. I tested the third lane with a sacrificial ATi 4890.
> 
> I've been out and got an MSI R9 290x which is sitting quite quietly in the 3rd slot, it's noticably quieter than the Gigabyte one I had with it's original reference cooler. it'll be even quieter when I get the water block on it. I've also ordered a new board, Yoyotech are selling Z97 sabretooth's for £99.99. Hopefully it should be here before the weekend and I can start another build in this case.


Don't feel bad, I lot 3 hard drives last week. Two 180GB SSD's and a 500GB HDD all filled with vital data, and a Skyrim setup with over 200 mods that was running beautifully. I purchased one of those little Phantek PWM hubs for my case, and when I went to connect it I realized I was out of Sata power ports on my PSU. I was like no worries its a modular power supply and I have more Sata power cables in storage. Went and dug out one of the cables, hooked up the controller and the fans and was good to go. I went to turn on my computer and it turned on for a split second then nothing. I tried again and again barely light up and then nothing. So I disconnected the fan controller and booted into BIOS, and all my hard drives had disappeared. I didn't know what had happened but I swearing and getting very angry at Phanteks for selling me a fan controller that could kill hard drives. After I calmed down I examined the Sata power cable plugged into my PSU and compared it other Sata cables, and discovered all of the pins on it were all incompletely wrong positions. How that happened I have no idea. Best I can figure is that I must have done it a long time ago, trying to test how hard it would be to get the plug off of there to sleeve the cable and didn't remember. Anyway ***** happens, and you can't beat yourself up about it.


----------



## WeirdHarold

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LandonAaron*
> 
> Don't feel bad, I lot 3 hard drives last week. Two 180GB SSD's and a 500GB HDD all filled with vital data, and a Skyrim setup with over 200 mods that was running beautifully. I purchased one of those little Phantek PWM hubs for my case, and when I went to connect it I realized I was out of Sata power ports on my PSU. I was like no worries its a modular power supply and I have more Sata power cables in storage. Went and dug out one of the cables, hooked up the controller and the fans and was good to go. I went to turn on my computer and it turned on for a split second then nothing. I tried again and again barely light up and then nothing. So I disconnected the fan controller and booted into BIOS, and all my hard drives had disappeared. I didn't know what had happened but I swearing and getting very angry at Phanteks for selling me a fan controller that could kill hard drives. After I calmed down I examined the Sata power cable plugged into my PSU and compared it other Sata cables, and discovered all of the pins on it were all incompletely wrong positions. How that happened I have no idea. Best I can figure is that I must have done it a long time ago, trying to test how hard it would be to get the plug off of there to sleeve the cable and didn't remember. Anyway ***** happens, and you can't beat yourself up about it.


You are correct Stuff Happens, but I have a feeling he doesn't feel any better









I however do have a feeling he's going to love the Sabertooth board that's coming, I am running the AMD version and it's an awesome board. I imagine the Intel versions totally kick *ss


----------



## welshy46

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WeirdHarold*
> 
> You are correct Stuff Happens, but I have a feeling he doesn't feel any better
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I however do have a feeling he's going to love the Sabertooth board that's coming, I am running the AMD version and it's an awesome board. I imagine the Intel versions totally kick *ss


It's not too bad. At least it was only hardware, not data like @LandonAaron I would have preferred to put the money on a new modular PSU to tidy up the cabling in the back or a second not replacement 290x, than spend it on replacing parts due to my own negligence. Apart from the cash outlay I'm actually pleased the board is goosed. I've been a republic of gamers fan since the Rampage III extreme. I just got bored with red and black. After 4 years of successive red and black it was time for a change. i still love the red and black look, just not on my desk







the z87 sabretooth was on my list along with the black and gold Asus z87 pro.

Being a fan of Half Life I decided to do an orange build after seeing the Gigabyte z87x oc.


the enthoo luxe has a more "grown up" look about it than the Corsair 230T I'm replacing, so with the all black Sabretooth armour I'm thnking of something a little more sedate than bright orange and UV green.


----------



## Spork13

Was scanning evilbay for some more case phans and saw this:
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/PHANTEKS-ENTHOO-Pro-White-Big-Tower-ATX-Computer-Case-EMS-Free-/271621160211?pt=US_Computer_Cases&hash=item3f3de1fd13








A little further on...
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Phanteks-ENTHOO-PRIMO-Ultimate-Chassis-Big-Tower-Computer-Case-EMS-Exp-Free-/281282838001?pt=US_Computer_Cases&hash=item417dc37df1

Holy crap!


----------



## welshy46

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spork13*
> 
> Was scanning evilbay for some more case phans and saw this:
> http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/PHANTEKS-ENTHOO-Pro-White-Big-Tower-ATX-Computer-Case-EMS-Free-/271621160211?pt=US_Computer_Cases&hash=item3f3de1fd13
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A little further on...
> http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Phanteks-ENTHOO-PRIMO-Ultimate-Chassis-Big-Tower-Computer-Case-EMS-Exp-Free-/281282838001?pt=US_Computer_Cases&hash=item417dc37df1
> 
> Holy crap!


Free postage though lol







the MSI 4Gb R9 290x i bought yesterday for £262 / 410USD was being sold on the same site I bought a £99.99 157USD Asus Sabretooth for £399.99/ 626USD. It pays to shop around. I could have ended up paying around £580/ 907USD instead of £362/ 566USD.

At the other end of the evilbay scale, here's how much you can get one in the UK. Free next day delivery as well. Phanteks enthoo primo they sell them on their website and in the shop for £199.99/ 311USD.


----------



## nismoskyline

my phanteks case build


----------



## welshy46

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nismoskyline*
> 
> 
> 
> my phanteks case build










Nice. Anymore pics or specs.


----------



## nismoskyline

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *welshy46*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Nice. Anymore pics or specs.


more pics would be same quality sadly







all i have is my phone and the camera is crap
specs are

rampage formula III
xeon L5638
6gb dominator
3 gtx 480 hydrocoppers
1k evga psu
1tb hdd


----------



## welshy46

It's the first Xeon powered luxe I've seen. One day I will buy a decent camera instead of posting pics off my phones camera.


----------



## nismoskyline

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *welshy46*
> 
> It's the first Xeon powered luxe I've seen. One day I will buy a decent camera instead of posting pics off my phones camera.


it does the tasks i need it do quite well







the 6 core x58 cpus are still powerful for todays day to day tasks. maybe if i could get a good camera for ~80 bucks i'd get one (pretty sure that doesn't exist tho haha)


----------



## doyll

I'm still using X58 systems. No Xeon as I have a 980.








Test bench has 920 @ up to 4.2GHz
Wife has an old Athlon II X 620 @ 3.55GHz


----------



## LandonAaron

x58 Systems are still very good. I just upgraded from x58 i7-965 to i7-4790k, and there is almost no difference in gaming. I am going to be using the old x58 CPU and motherboard to build my girlfriend a computer so we can play some games together. Probably going to get her the Phanteks Enthoo Pro for the case, or get the Luxe for myself and give her my old Antec 1100. Or maybe I will find an old Rampage II Gene motherobard, and get micro-atx case. or maybe...


----------



## Nitemare15

Guys I need some sleeved PSU cables for my Seasonic X 860 Plat Cert PSU. I feel like extensions will take up a lot of room in the Luxe and would rather have some custom sleeved PSU cables. Is there anyone that does that or will I have to do it myself?


----------



## kush621

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nitemare15*
> 
> Guys I need some sleeved PSU cables for my Seasonic X 860 Plat Cert PSU. I feel like extensions will take up a lot of room in the Luxe and would rather have some custom sleeved PSU cables. Is there anyone that does that or will I have to do it myself?


www.modbunker.com


----------



## roniebravo

Hi, I'm thinking very hard about purchase a Enthoo primo (the black/golden one), would a pair of Nemesis Gtx 480 fit in the bottom and top?

thanks in advance


----------



## demps709

Mine us also a Xeon powered Luxe. x58 with a Xeon x5650 running at 4.6ghz


----------



## welshy46

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *roniebravo*
> 
> Hi, I'm thinking very hard about purchase a Enthoo primo (the black/golden one), would a pair of Nemesis Gtx 480 fit in the bottom and top?
> 
> thanks in advance


They will fit in the case, but you won't be able to close the door. Your rad is 133mm wide, the alphcool nexxus monsta rad is 124mm and just fits in.


----------



## LandonAaron

An x5656
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *demps709*
> 
> Mine us also a Xeon powered Luxe. x58 with a Xeon x5650 running at 4.6ghz


An x5650 running at 4.6, thats like a 2 ghz overclock,







I'd be like "They call me Two Gigggs"


----------



## roniebravo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *welshy46*
> 
> They will fit in the case, but you won't be able to close the door. Your rad is 133mm wide, the alphcool nexxus monsta rad is 124mm and just fits in.


oh, bad news,
I'm running now an UT60 280 and an ST30 240 in a fractal R4 and I'd like to try something different

thanks!


----------



## benbenkr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nitemare15*
> 
> Guys I need some sleeved PSU cables for my Seasonic X 860 Plat Cert PSU. I feel like extensions will take up a lot of room in the Luxe and would rather have some custom sleeved PSU cables. Is there anyone that does that or will I have to do it myself?


Depends how many extensions you are going to use. Going for the standard 24-pin and PCI-E 8-pin combo, there's more than enough room in the Luxe to cope with that. Are you going to use extensions for your drives and fans as well?


----------



## welshy46

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *benbenkr*
> 
> Depends how many extensions you are going to use. Going for the standard 24-pin and PCI-E 8-pin combo, there's more than enough room in the Luxe to cope with that. Are you going to use extensions for your drives and fans as well?


There's more than enough space in the luxe. I have a non modular 950w PSU with extensions on the 24 pin and two PCI-E cables for my GPU and they are all tucked in behind the motherboard tray. In total on my PSU there is 4 pairs of PCI-E cables 3 molex 3 SATA 24 PIN 8 pin cables all behind the motherboard tray. Along with 2 pwm hubs and wiring for 11 fans. Along with inverters for two cathode tubes. You will have no problem fitting the requiered cables and extensions for your modular PSU with room to spare.


----------



## benbenkr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *welshy46*
> 
> There's more than enough space in the luxe. I have a non modular 950w PSU with extensions on the 24 pin and two PCI-E cables for my GPU and they are all tucked in behind the motherboard tray. In total on my PSU there is 4 pairs of PCI-E cables 3 molex 3 SATA 24 PIN 8 pin cables all behind the motherboard tray. Along with 2 pwm hubs and wiring for 11 fans. Along with inverters for two cathode tubes. You will have no problem fitting the requiered cables and extensions for your modular PSU with room to spare.


Precisely.

I think a lot of people seem to underestimate the Luxe/Pro's space it offers. This isn't your ordinary mid-tower compact ATX.


----------



## bond32

I'm using 2 8 pin connectors to the CPU and a 6 pin to the board for the PLX chip, all fit fine although a tight fit in the Enthoo Pro with a ST30 360 up top....


----------



## emsj86

I only got 1 of the two icemodz led white lights that i ordered. i have one facing from top down where should i put the other one when i get it. I was thinking bottom but i dont know if it will light up the cpu block (which is what im going for) any ideas where to place it. the hdd cages causes glare off the res


----------



## kenshihimura

Sorry, my motherboard is Asrock Z97 Extreme4. My 4 pins connector is connected to the CHA_FANS1 on the motherboard (CPU_FAN1 slot on the motherboard is 4 pins but it's used by the CPU cooler, CPU_FAN2 is only 3 pins so I have to connect it to the CHA_FANS1). However, it can only detect CPU fans only and not others.


----------



## Spork13

Couldn't you connect the hub to the 4 pin CPU header, then connect CPU fan to 4 pin header on hub?


----------



## kenshihimura

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spork13*
> 
> Couldn't you connect the hub to the 4 pin CPU header, then connect CPU fan to 4 pin header on hub?


Hmmm...4 pin from motherboard to hub, then how would I connect 4 pin from CPU cooler to the hub? I think the hub only has 1 4pin slot.


----------



## HyperC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PureBlackFire*
> 
> is complete lack of support a problem?


Well there does seem to be miss information with a 480 fitting guru3d and couple other sites said 480 will fit, either way my case comes today and I am going to make it fit


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HyperC*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *PureBlackFire*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *HyperC*
> 
> Lol i got to ask on the luxe any problems with a 480 radiator on top
> 
> 
> 
> I suspect you mean a 360 or a 420. I don't think anyone's going to fit a 480 in the top of a Luxe or a Pro.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> is complete lack of support a problem?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Well there does seem to be miss information with a 480 fitting guru3d and couple other sites said 480 will fit, either way my case comes today and I am going to make it fit
Click to expand...

Hmmm, do you mean this review?

Guru3D.com » Review » Phanteks Enthoo Luxe review - Specifications and features
http://www.guru3d.com/articles_pages/phanteks_enthoo_luxe_review,2.html
Quote:


> Extensive water cooling support. Provides up to 4 different installation areas for slim and thick radiators varying from single to triple (120mm and 140mm form factors). Clearance for push-pull fan configurations.




I didn't see any other review of the Luxe at Guru3D that said anything different that that. You sure you weren't thinking about a review of the Enthoo Primo?

Sorry, but I just do not see any way to fit a 480 in a Luxe. I suspect a 480 will not fit internally no matter how you try to mod it.

Here's a 360 rad sitting on the chassis of a Luxe:


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HyperC*
> 
> Well there does seem to be miss information with a 480 fitting guru3d and couple other sites said 480 will fit, either way my case comes today and I am going to make it fit


after using the case for months I promise you won't make any 480 rad fit _*inside*_ of it. maybe you are confusing the Luxe with the Primo?


----------



## Darkness Sakura

Quick question, I've been looking at a few builds through this thread, and a few just perusing through Google photos and was curious, if the reservoir bracket is removed where would you mount the reservoir without going to a bay reservoir? What I guess I'm trying to ask is if it'd be possible to mount one on the HDD drive bays or possibly place a bar across the 5.25" bays? I have the case and have tried some measurements but to no avail have I reached a logical solution as I'm still trying to build up my system which will have multiple GPU (EVGA 04G-P4-2981-KR) and on a X10DAX motherboard from Supermicro. Any and all suggestions welcome, thanks!

Edit: the location of my water pump is in the rear next to the power supply (Primo) and will be copper piping so I wanted it where the bracket would be but my GPU configuration is preventing possible use of the bracket.


----------



## welshy46

@HyperCtotally doable mod depending on which 480 you're deploying up there. I just put my alphacool UT45 280 up there. Admittedly 30mm of a 480 will be hanging out the back of the case,you can unlike the Primo owners fit a HWL BLack ice though. Depending on what mobo and blocks you have. clearance for fans might be an issue. I had to mount the 280 off centre to clear the armour on my z87 sabretooth.


----------



## welshy46

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darkness Sakura*
> 
> Quick question, I've been looking at a few builds through this thread, and a few just perusing through Google photos and was curious, if the reservoir bracket is removed where would you mount the reservoir without going to a bay reservoir? What I guess I'm trying to ask is if it'd be possible to mount one on the HDD drive bays or possibly place a bar across the 5.25" bays? I have the case and have tried some measurements but to no avail have I reached a logical solution as I'm still trying to build up my system which will have multiple GPU (EVGA 04G-P4-2981-KR) and on a X10DAX motherboard from Supermicro. Any and all suggestions welcome, thanks!
> 
> Edit: the location of my water pump is in the rear next to the power supply (Primo) and will be copper piping so I wanted it where the bracket would be but my GPU configuration is preventing possible use of the bracket.


Hi Darkness which res are you using. Can you arrange your drives so you can fit the res inside of the HDD bay. Fitting a bar across to mount a res would be simple enough. You might even be able to repurpose a bit of your old case to use if it's heading to the bin anyway. Not sure if Phanteks sell the pump bracket for the luxe separately but that mounts onto the HDD cages not the back of the case like the Primo.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darkness Sakura*
> 
> Quick question, I've been looking at a few builds through this thread, and a few just perusing through Google photos and was curious, if the reservoir bracket is removed where would you mount the reservoir without going to a bay reservoir? What I guess I'm trying to ask is if it'd be possible to mount one on the HDD drive bays or possibly place a bar across the 5.25" bays? I have the case and have tried some measurements but to no avail have I reached a logical solution as I'm still trying to build up my system which will have multiple GPU (EVGA 04G-P4-2981-KR) and on a X10DAX motherboard from Supermicro. Any and all suggestions welcome, thanks!
> 
> Edit: the location of my water pump is in the rear next to the power supply (Primo) and will be copper piping so I wanted it where the bracket would be but my GPU configuration is preventing possible use of the bracket.


that really depends on the size of the res.... you could mount one in the drive cages but since the cages are removable you could remove the bottom one for routing of tubes but you would need a way to secure the res to the top cage...
Edit: well that changes things... you could buy a pump res combo for redundancy those generally can be mounted to the floor of the case... I'm sure they make a res that does the same.... or do you already have the res? The mount for the res on back of drive bays would limit video card length as well.... but if it will clear it's very well designed....


----------



## Darkness Sakura

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *welshy46*
> 
> Hi Darkness which res are you using. Can you arrange your drives so you can fit the res inside of the HDD bay. Fitting a bar across to mount a res would be simple enough. You might even be able to repurpose a bit of your old case to use if it's heading to the bin anyway. Not sure if Phanteks sell the pump bracket for the luxe separately but that mounts onto the HDD cages not the back of the case like the Primo.


Well the res will be enough to support dual CPUs and either dual GPU, possibly even triple GPU, water blocks - all on one loop. As for the HDDs the bottom will contain a Alphacool 480 monsta, along with the top as the radiators will be "in-between" the CPU water blocks, then in-between the GPU waterblocks but all on the same loop.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> that really depends on the size of the res.... you could mount one in the drive cages but since the cages are removable you could remove the bottom one for routing of tubes but you would need a way to secure the res to the top cage...
> Edit: well that changes things... you could buy a pump res combo for redundancy those generally can be mounted to the floor of the case... I'm sure they make a res that does the same.... or do you already have the res? The mount for the res on back of drive bays would limit video card length as well.... but if it will clear it's very well designed....


I was considering a pump/res combo but then I wanted something that wasn't 5.25" bay mounted, and something that I could easily monitor the amount of fluid in the system. The res I was looking at getting was the Bitspower Z-Line 150 res, or the 250 style, that was going to direct feed into the pump.



This is kinda what the setup would consist of, to give you an idea of how I would like it to be. But with multiple GPU I'm not sure the bracket mount would be adequate. I've only planned for dual GPU in the drawing and not triple GPU.


----------



## welshy46

@Darkness Sakura Do you know what size the gap is from your GPU'S to the back of the drive bay. Will a 50mm diameter res fit, how many bays will you be using for storage and ODD and fan controller. There's a lot of prime modding real estate in that drive bay.

I had the idea of mounting a http://www.ekwb.com/shop/reservoirs-and-acc/reservoirs/ek-dbay-res-spin-acetal-original-csq.html vertically in the window side of the drive bay so it could be seen through the small window where the Phanteks logo is. Obviously this would involve going at your case with power tools







as you can take the drive bay out with a screw driver, it's asking for it.


----------



## Darkness Sakura

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *welshy46*
> 
> @Darkness Sakura Do you know what size the gap is from your GPU'S to the back of the drive bay. Will a 50mm diameter res fit, how many bays will you be using for storage and ODD and fan controller. There's a lot of prime modding real estate in that drive bay.
> 
> I had the idea of mounting a http://www.ekwb.com/shop/reservoirs-and-acc/reservoirs/ek-dbay-res-spin-acetal-original-csq.html vertically in the window side of the drive bay so it could be seen through the small window where the Phanteks logo is. Obviously this would involve going at your case with power tools
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> as you can take the drive bay out with a screw driver, it's asking for it.


If I remember correctly I should have about 50mm or more there, as for the drive bays I'll be using 3 of the 5 for use of two controllers, they can handle only so much power (need two for the amount of fans to be used), and a DVD/CD combo drive, the 480 rad by Alphacool unfortunately takes up the top slot so that really would only leave me with one, I may reduce the fan controllers down to one and rock the suggested bay reservoir - tried to stay away from them only because most were that acetal/plastic and I didn't want the "chance" of leakage... the only you mentioned looks quite solid.

My main reason for rocking a res in the original location of the mount is that I'd like the pump to be fairly close to the res and my fill port be tapped in so I don't have to remove the res or a pipe to fill it and the pump would aide in draining the system while filling it at the same time.


----------



## welshy46

@Darkness Sakura EKWB make some of the best quality water cooling products out there. I hear you about wanting to keep the res over the pump. I have mine bolted to the mobo tray with a DDC pump on a EKWB pump top on the floor of the case underneath it. Phanteks forgot to put mounting points for the DDC on the pump. Oops!

If you've got the clearance for a 50mm tube res then that would be the simplest solution. One other thing with the res in the side idea. You will have to raise it up to clear your rad. So it wont be visible in the small window.

As for fan control. The pwm hub on the back can handle 11 fans. So you can ditch the fan controllers. You will need to get additional splitter cables to run 11.


----------



## Darkness Sakura

Well the thing about the fans, 8 of them are the Delta AFB1212GHE fans meaning they rock about 29.4W per fan, I don't think the fan hub on the back can handle that kind of juice. The only reason I want to get separate controllers, just now I managed to reduce the number of controllers to one rather than two only because I figured where I didn't need another fan.


----------



## welshy46

I bought 2 extra pwm hubs when I got my luxe. As I didn't know how much they could handle. I'm only running 12 fans. 6x120mm and 6x140mm on two hubs.

I had a Sunbeamtech Rheosmart pwm fan controller running them in my previos case. Top quality controller, although as it has knobs rather thenone of those new fangled LCD screens. You'll need at least 11mm clearance to close the door on the Primo.


----------



## bond32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *welshy46*
> 
> I bought 2 extra pwm hubs when I got my luxe. As I didn't know how much they could handle. I'm only running 12 fans. 6x120mm and 6x140mm on two hubs.
> 
> I had a Sunbeamtech Rheosmart pwm fan controller running them in my previos case. Top quality controller, although as it has knobs rather thenone of those new fangled LCD screens. You'll need at least 11mm clearance to close the door on the Primo.


Did you actually have success using the phanteks pwm hubs with a pwm signal?


----------



## welshy46

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> Did you actually have success using the phanteks pwm hubs with a pwm signal?


This has yet to be seen. If they don't perform through Asus' Air suite, I'll re use my pwm fan controller, That's one reason I've left the space under the PSU cover empty.







I'm still rebuilding mine after the first attempt failed with much cursing and emptying of bank account







I've just finished wiring it all back up.

A couple more potato pics. This case can devour even the most overly wired PSU's.


----------



## Darkness Sakura

Nicely done there, nicely done.


----------



## welshy46

If efforts at hard tubing turns out half as easy as it is to cable manage this case I'll be happy, and surprised.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *welshy46*
> 
> If efforts at hard tubing turns out half as easy as it is to cable manage this case I'll be happy, and surprised.


I think you'll find the cable management much easier than hard tubing


----------



## welshy46

I am. He says staring at his snapped in half Monsoon neoprene tube insert, with half of it stuck 2 bends in. Really tempted to just tube it up with LRT.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *welshy46*
> 
> I am. He says staring at his snapped in half Monsoon neoprene tube insert, with half of it stuck 2 bends in. Really tempted to just tube it up with LRT.


don't give up once you get it you'll be turning out nice looking stuff


----------



## kjrayo18

So I just got the Phantek pro and was wondering if I can do this air flow with my h80i cooler instead of the other way? Or no?


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kjrayo18*
> 
> 
> 
> So I just got the Phantek pro and was wondering if I can do this air flow with my h80i cooler instead of the other way? Or no?


you could do it this way... But gpu may restrict flow I would try it both ways see which one yields better temps


----------



## kjrayo18

Oh right cuz the gpu sucks in air I forgot about that. Never mind thanks for reminding me lol


----------



## welshy46

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> don't give up once you get it you'll be turning out nice looking stuff


Well it's done. Filled up and running. No leaks on start up. My best bend was the last one for the fillport. Stilk got it to do again. Bought a rev2 290x, thing is the water block I've got from my previous 290x is a rev1. Which I didn't realise until I tried to screw it to the new card. It's 0240 in the UK and I'm off to bed.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *welshy46*
> 
> Well it's done. Filled up and running. No leaks on start up. My best bend was the last one for the fillport. Stilk got it to do again. Bought a rev2 290x, thing is the water block I've got from my previous 290x is a rev1. Which I didn't realise until I tried to screw it to the new card. It's 0240 in the UK and I'm off to bed.


nice I'm liking the subtle orange theme... The phanteks ties make it pop.... bends look fine.... The long runs remind me of the tubes you drop into the water from on half life


----------



## HyperC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PureBlackFire*
> 
> after using the case for months I promise you won't make any 480 rad fit _*inside*_ of it. maybe you are confusing the Luxe with the Primo?


Nope, but i have my 480 sr1 installed inside my luxe


----------



## Darkness Sakura

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kjrayo18*
> 
> 
> 
> So I just got the Phantek pro and was wondering if I can do this air flow with my h80i cooler instead of the other way? Or no?


Assuming you have strong enough fans at the bottom to pull the warmer air from up top tot the base I'd see it as probable, again as previously stated, the GPU would cause an air restriction; though the GPU, pending fans, doesn't necessarily use a lot of air so you wouldn't notice it changing any circulation.


----------



## Spork13

false
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kjrayo18*
> 
> 
> 
> So I just got the Phantek pro and was wondering if I can do this air flow with my h80i cooler instead of the other way? Or no?


Keep in mind you won't be filtering the intake air from the back (unless you add an aftermarket filter or mod something).
You _could_ possibly remove the front filter and repurpose that? Even if you don'r reuse it, you should improve air flow by removing it.
You _could_ use the rear exhaust fan as an intake further along the top instead, where there is a filter already.

What GPU do you havem and what kind of cooler? (reference blower type, or aftermarket?)

Be interesting to hear how your reverse air flow works out.


----------



## shadow85

Is enthoo luxe suppose to come with 1x SSD bracket or 2x?

EDIT: NVM I found the second one. I have another question thought, when using the included Phantek PWM Hub in the Luxe case, and connect the hub 4-pin to CPU_Fan1. Where do I connect the swiftech H240-X PWM hub?

Maybe to the CPU_Fan2 on the x99 gaming 7?


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HyperC*
> 
> Nope, but i have my 480 sr1 installed inside my luxe


is it mounted diagonally or something. I'd like to see the pics and how you fit it in. is it touching the front 5.25" covers? no rear fan? can you actually use it? plz pics.


----------



## madmalkav

Anyone is using a mcp50x pump with the Phanteks Enthoo Primo hub, or you connect it to a separate PWM header of the MB?


----------



## mfknjadagr8

One question I have for you guys that are using the phanteks hub....my case fans connected to it set to 100 percent in bios only run at around half speed is there a 5 7 12 volt switch on it that I missed our something? I only have the two case fans connected and they spin at 750ish rpm Max it is connected to cpu_opt header


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> One question I have for you guys that are using the phanteks hub....my case fans connected to it set to 100 percent in bios only run at around half speed is there a 5 7 12 volt switch on it that I missed our something? I only have the two case fans connected and they spin at 750ish rpm Max it is connected to cpu_opt header


I know they claim your motherboard has 4x PWM headers, but humor me here. Try using the CPU_fan header for the PWM controlled 3-pin fan hub. The hub has to receive a PWM signal on pin-4 to adjust voltage going to fans. This could be another one of those times the CPU_fan header works while the CPU-opt header didn't. I assume you are powering it from PSU?


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> I know they claim your motherboard has 4x PWM headers, but humor me here. Try using the CPU_fan header for the PWM controlled 3-pin fan hub. The hub has to receive a PWM signal on pin-4 to adjust voltage going to fans. This could be another one of those times the CPU_fan header works while the CPU-opt header didn't. I assume you are powering it from PSU?


yep sure am...Also I have the swiftech pwm splitter on cpu_fan with my other 5 fans connected to it...that's why I chose cpu_opt but I'll swap them to rule out cpu_opt header as culprit I thought I had read about people having trouble with pwm on cpu_opt before


----------



## bond32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> yep sure am...Also I have the swiftech pwm splitter on cpu_fan with my other 5 fans connected to it...that's why I chose cpu_opt but I'll swap them to rule out cpu_opt header as culprit I thought I had read about people having trouble with pwm on cpu_opt before


Which board? Because I believe on asus boards the CPU_OPT is indeed a pwm header, however the control on it is not individual - it is mirrored from the CPU_FAN header.


----------



## LandonAaron

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HyperC*
> 
> Nope, but i have my 480 sr1 installed inside my luxe


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PureBlackFire*
> 
> is it mounted diagonally or something. I'd like to see the pics and how you fit it in. is it touching the front 5.25" covers? no rear fan? can you actually use it? plz pics.


Yes, I too would like to see this.


----------



## Weston

Does anyone know of a place/if it's possible to order replacement parts from Phankteks? I want to get a replacement back panel from my Luxe so I can put a window in it that won't scratch so easily and is actually clear and replace the original side panel. Yes I know I could take the original plastic out and put a new sheet in behind it, but the ridge that the window sits in and the metal tabs that hold the original one in place make it kind of hard to mount a new one in. I also like the look better without the smaller window. I did the same thing on my old HAF 932 (with the back panel) and it turned out really well, but you could just order the back panel from the CM store.

I may try and contact them about it if I can't find somewhere to buy it, but I'm sure they're annoyed with me at this point for having to RMA both components of the front I/O seperately in the last 2 weeks. Ha.


----------



## owcraftsman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shadow85*
> 
> Is enthoo luxe suppose to come with 1x SSD bracket or 2x?
> 
> EDIT: NVM I found the second one. I have another question thought, when using the included Phantek PWM Hub in the Luxe case, and connect the hub 4-pin to CPU_Fan1. Where do I connect the swiftech H240-X PWM hub?
> 
> Maybe to the CPU_Fan2 on the x99 gaming 7?


It would appear that board has only one PWM controlled (speed control) fan header.

Yow will need to use one hub or the other.

Keep in mind combining all fans in one hub you want all similar rpm fans.

In other words using 800 and 2000 RPM fans on the same hub is not recommended.

If, say the 800 rpm (Fan hub 1) is the single fan which all others are emulated off of, all fans will run 800 rpm max

conversely if the 2000 rpm is the control, it's likely the 800 rpm fans would not drop below it's max unless the 2000 drops below that at idle.

At least that the way it works for me on the Phanteks hub.

With your set up it's likely best you use the swiftech supplied header for the H240 and put your other case fans on the voltage controlled header of the Gigabyte board so you can set them up through your bios.


----------



## HyperC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LandonAaron*
> 
> Yes, I too would like to see this.


LOL, it took a little work to make it fit I got 2 fans on the bottom and 2 up top... Its not 100% done I needed my pc back up and running, I will post some pics soon


----------



## Viktor27

I was thinking of using 2 Noctua NF-F12's for the front intake on my Phanteks Enthoo Pro but I can fit one F12 and one Noctua NF-A15 on the front. Took out the HDD cage so that's not in the way, which combination do I use?

Edit: I think I'll stick with 2 f12's


----------



## HyperC

The sr1 is 54mm so only 2 fans work on the bottom I still need to mount the radiator better just a bit rushed.. Also the front control panel needed to be moved down... The metal lip was also bent down so the radiator had clearance next removed 2 middle screws from the top panel front and back also for clearance


----------



## kenshihimura

Hey guys, how does the PWM hub actually works? My motherboard is Asrock Z97 Extreme 4. The 4 pin from the hub..I plugged it to CHA_FAN1 (with 4 pins) cause my CPU_FAN1(with 4 pins) is used for the CPU cooler and my CPU_FAN2(with 3 pins only). All fans seem to be working but it couldn't detect them in BIOS...only able to detect CPU fans.

All my casing fans are non-PWM fans though. Is that the cause?


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HyperC*
> 
> The sr1 is 54mm so only 2 fans work on the bottom I still need to mount the radiator better just a bit rushed.. Also the front control panel needed to be moved down... The metal lip was also bent down so the radiator had clearance next removed 2 middle screws from the top panel front and back also for clearance


well, you got it in there. just as I thought though. not that I'd say it "fit", but kudos to you for making it work.


----------



## FantasticDrone

Hello,

I am new to the forums and saw this massive thread, hopefully someone can help me. I have ordered the Phanteks Enthoo Luxe which will arrive in a couple days. I am planning to water cool my CPU and GPU. The GPU block for my graphics card is not available yet, so I will only be cooling my CPU now, but I will be adding the GPU to my loop when it's available.

Here's my question: What would be the best radiator setup for my rig? I currently have one 240mm radiator laying around, it can be used if I need to. However, I was considering for a cleaner build just getting a HUGE radiator up top for cooling everything, my CPU and GPU.

I am aware of the available radiator sizes for top, so would a 420mm radiator fit nicely? I am a bit concerned with the tubing and the rear fan. So if I got a 420 mm radiator that would be 3 140mm fans, this would be more than sufficient for cooling my GPU/CPU correct? (Possibility of a mobo to the loop later, might just add a 2nd rad though)

Let me know what you guys think or any suggestions. I would like to order a new rad tonight if possible, so it will arrive on the day of case comes. This is also my pump/res: http://www.xs-pc.com/discontinued-eol/x2o-750-dual-bayrespump-acrylic-v4 I think it should be good enough to pump my planned loop? It is kinda old so want to be sure.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kenshihimura*
> 
> Hey guys, how does the PWM hub actually works? My motherboard is Asrock Z97 Extreme 4. The 4 pin from the hub..I plugged it to CHA_FAN1 (with 4 pins) cause my CPU_FAN1(with 4 pins) is used for the CPU cooler and my CPU_FAN2(with 3 pins only). All fans seem to be working but it couldn't detect them in BIOS...only able to detect CPU fans.
> 
> All my casing fans are non-PWM fans though. Is that the cause?


The Phanteks hub is designed to let you use a PWM header to control 3-pin voltage controlled fans. According to this manual, all of the 4 pin fan headers on your board are actually PWM headers so you should be able to use either the CPU_FAN1 or the CHA_FAN1 header with the hub.



See page 95 in the manual for how to control the fan headers in the BIOS . Also you may be able to control them using A-Tuning software pages, see pages 40-42.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *owcraftsman*
> 
> Keep in mind combining all fans in one hub you want all similar rpm fans.
> In other words using 800 and 2000 RPM fans on the same hub is not recommended.
> If, say the 800 rpm (Fan hub 1) is the single fan which all others are emulated off of, all fans will run 800 rpm max
> conversely if the 2000 rpm is the control, it's likely the 800 rpm fans would not drop below it's max unless the 2000 drops below that at idle.
> At least that the way it works for me on the Phanteks hub.


I have to respectfully disagree.
Fan on a Phanteks hub all receive the same voltage and will spin at whatever rpm that voltage spins them .. and a 2000rpm fan will be spinning much faster on 10v than an 800rpm fan.
Fans on PWM splitter all received the same % of PWM signal and will spin accordingly.

How could motherboard know what the speed of fans not sending RPM signal to motherboard be .. and how could the PWM signal be different to the 800rpm fan than to the 2000rpm?

My experience is that PWM control is not RPM regulated, but is a percent of PWM signal .. and have built and helped build many systems with different rpm fans on splitters .. often with higher speed fans on cooler. Here is a graph of 1300rpm and 2500rpm fans on same signal.


How to monitor different fan speeds on splitter / hub


----------



## welshy46

Well the deed is done. Again.. Anyone tells you acrylic tubes are easy is either overly talented or lying. Wrecked twice as much tube as I actually used. Some of that was down to primochills completely useless hollow bending cord and hobby supplies shop grade acrylic tubes. Hooray for Monsoons hard tube. 100% better than primoshills tat. Apart from snapping the monsoon neoprene cord which limited my tube bending options. Thankfully the place I got the rubber seal for the window also sells neoprene cord by the metre. So once I've saved up some pennies for a rev2 water block for my GPU, I'll be bending some more tubes. Maybe after Xmas when the horror of the first attempt has faded in my mind.


----------



## kenshihimura

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> The Phanteks hub is designed to let you use a PWM header to control 3-pin voltage controlled fans. According to this manual, all of the 4 pin fan headers on your board are actually PWM headers so you should be able to use either the CPU_FAN1 or the CHA_FAN1 header with the hub.
> 
> 
> 
> See page 95 in the manual for how to control the fan headers in the BIOS . Also you may be able to control them using A-Tuning software pages, see pages 40-42.


Is this the same thing as the PWM hub that comes along with the casing Enthoo Pro?


----------



## welshy46

I failed to get the pwm hubs working through the bios on my z87 sabretooth. However installing Ai suite and letting that at the pwm hubs sorted it right out. I used the one supplied with the 6 120mm fans using the CPU fan pwm header, and one of the extra ones I bought to run the 5 140mm fans on the Opt CPU header. With the 140mm on the back running off CPU fan 1 header.my rig is sitting nice and quiet now and all the fans spool up when needed. On start up the fans run at full speed until Ai suite kicks in.

@kenshihimura I believe the only difference in the pwm hubs is if you buy the optional ones they come with a cover that lights up the Phanteks logo. All the ones that come with the cases are the same.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kenshihimura*
> 
> Is this the same thing as the PWM hub that comes along with the casing Enthoo Pro?


Yes, the Phanteks PWM hub comes in each of its cases and a version can be bought separately.


----------



## Comp4k

Just got my Phanteks Enthoo Luxe!!

Now I have to figure out how I want to stick this 2m long LED strip on the inside. @[email protected]


----------



## kenshihimura

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Yes, the Phanteks PWM hub comes in each of its cases and a version can be bought separately.


I still don't fully get what you mean...the hub got 6 (3pins port for the case fans), 1 (4 pins to connect to motherboard) and 1 more for SATA. The 6 ports with 3 pins I already connected to fans. The 4 pins I connected to CHA_FAN1 on the motherboard since it has 4 pins. CPU_FAN1 has 4 pins too but I've used it to connect my CPU cooler.

How can I control the fan speed for each of the fans?


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *welshy46*
> 
> I failed to get the pwm hubs working through the bios on my z87 sabretooth. However installing Ai suite and letting that at the pwm hubs sorted it right out. I used the one supplied with the 6 120mm fans using the CPU fan pwm header, and one of the extra ones I bought to run the 5 140mm fans on the Opt CPU header. With the 140mm on the back running off CPU fan 1 header.my rig is sitting nice and quiet now and all the fans spool up when needed. On start up the fans run at full speed until Ai suite kicks in.
> 
> @kenshihimura I believe the only difference in the pwm hubs is if you buy the optional ones they come with a cover that lights up the Phanteks logo. All the ones that come with the cases are the same.


Good bit info about AI Suite. Had heard it had some problems.

The PWM controlled 3-pin fan hubs all function the same, but there are 3 different ones out.
Enthoo Primo .. Enthoo Pro & Enthoo Luxe .. and accessory model with cover.


----------



## shadow85

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *owcraftsman*
> 
> It would appear that board has only one PWM controlled (speed control) fan header.
> Yow will need to use one hub or the other.
> Keep in mind combining all fans in one hub you want all similar rpm fans.
> In other words using 800 and 2000 RPM fans on the same hub is not recommended.
> If, say the 800 rpm (Fan hub 1) is the single fan which all others are emulated off of, all fans will run 800 rpm max
> conversely if the 2000 rpm is the control, it's likely the 800 rpm fans would not drop below it's max unless the 2000 drops below that at idle.
> At least that the way it works for me on the Phanteks hub.
> With your set up it's likely best you use the swiftech supplied header for the H240 and put your other case fans on the voltage controlled header of the Gigabyte board so you can set them up through your bios.


But my MSI X99 Gaming 7 has two, 4 pin CPU_Fan headers. One is CPU_FAN1, the other is CPU_FAN2, both of which are 4 pin. Can I just plug the Luxe PWM Hub into one, and the H240-X into to the other?


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shadow85*
> 
> But my MSI X99 Gaming 7 has two, 4 pin CPU_Fan headers. One is CPU_FAN1, the other is CPU_FAN2, both of which are 4 pin. Can I just plug the Luxe PWM Hub into one, and the H240-X into to the other?


According to this manual both the CPU_FAN1 and CPU_FAN2 are PWM (p1-25) so yes, you should be able to use both and use the Hardware Monitor fan control in the BIOS to control them (p3-28).


----------



## shadow85

I am trying to take the screws off the backplate so I can install the block on the cpu but the screws are so tight they are getting damaged when I am trying to screw them out.


----------



## Pissa

Hi guys!
I read the FAQ on 1st post, I think they refer to Enthoo Primo, I have a question about Luxe.

I have an Alphacool NexXxoS XT45 360mm radiator on my actual case, wih push/pull fan configuration (25mm fans x 2).
I didn't understand if this configuration will fit in the top of the Luxe or not.

Total thickness is obviously 45+25+25 = 95mm
Top fans are above the cage, so internally it's only 70mm.

Will it fit or not?
Thanks!


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pissa*
> 
> Hi guys!
> I read the FAQ on 1st post, I think they refer to Enthoo Primo, I have a question about Luxe.
> 
> I have an Alphacool NexXxoS XT45 360mm radiator on my actual case, wih push/pull fan configuration (25mm fans x 2).
> I didn't understand if this configuration will fit in the top of the Luxe or not.
> 
> Total thickness is obviously 45+25+25 = 95mm
> Top fans are above the cage, so internally it's only 70mm.
> 
> Will it fit or not?
> Thanks!


Sorry, but no. The max rad thickness for push pull in the top of the Luxe is 40mm. A 45mm rad won't fit in push pull. There is 65mm space between the top of the mobo and the chassis, with room above the chassis for a layer of fans beneath the removable filter cover.

The 1st post really needs updated with info regarding each of the cases this thread is supposed to represent. The FAQ that are there should be labeled that they only apply to the Primo, and some new FAQ started for the Luxe and Pro.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shadow85*
> 
> I am trying to take the screws off the backplate so I can install the block on the cpu but the screws are so tight they are getting damaged when I am trying to screw them out.


This happens most often when not using the correct sized screwdriver with a good unworn/undamaged tip. Once the slots in the screws get damaged they become all the more harder (if not impossible) to remove without risking damaging the card.


----------



## Pissa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Sorry, but no. The max rad thickness for push pull in the top of the Luxe is 40mm. A 45mm rad won't fit in push pull. There is 65mm space between the top of the mobo and the chassis, with room above the chassis for a layer of fans beneath the removable filter cover.


oh just for 5mm, what a shame!








so only with Primo will fit....

thanks for helping!


----------



## welshy46

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Sorry, but no. The max rad thickness for push pull in the top of the Luxe is 40mm. A 45mm rad won't fit in push pull. There is 65mm space between the top of the mobo and the chassis, with room above the chassis for a layer of fans beneath the removable filter cover.
> 
> The 1st post really needs updated with info regarding each of the cases this thread is supposed to represent. The FAQ that are there should be labeled that they only apply to the Primo, and some new FAQ started for the Luxe and Pro.


@Pissa
I had my alphacool UT45 360 in push/pull in the roof with a gigabyte z87 oc mobo. There's potato pic a few pages back, look for the one with much orange and greenness. Its a tight fit and I had to cut the corner off one of the fans to miss the 8 pin ATX header but it went in, there's a pic of that as well. I mounted it as far forward as it would go in the slotted 120mm holes. I've now got my alphacool UT45 280 in the roof but had to mount it off centre to miss the mobo.

So depending on your mobo the 360 should go in, but you might have to get a choppy choppy with it.


----------



## shadow85

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> This happens most often when not using the correct sized screwdriver with a good unworn/undamaged tip. Once the slots in the screws get damaged they become all the more harder (if not impossible) to remove without risking damaging the card.


Been tryimg for ages, I got 2 of the 4 screws off from t


----------



## Pissa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *welshy46*
> 
> So depending on your mobo the 360 should go in, but you might have to get a choppy choppy with it.


Saw it.
Really millimetrical.
But now I know that it will fit with a z87 oc mobo, so I can compare with my actual mobo and eventually a future one!
Anyway.... 5mm, what a shame!









Grat rig mate!









EDIT:
z87 oc has 8pin ATX connector really at the edge of the mobo
if it's the only component that can block the fans, I suppose that any mobo with the connector not at the very edge of the mobo will fit.... do you agree?


----------



## welshy46

Most ATX mobo's should fit. You might have an issue with something like the Asus Maximus boards with the chipset water block and plastic armour. Most mobo's have the 8 pin in the top corner, I saw a vid of a guy who had the same issue and he cut the plastic block down on the PSU cable to make room for his rad. That was in a Corsair c70. With a little bit of lateral thinking and a big enough hammer, you can get most things to fit. Just ask @HyperC he got a 480 up there. Top work fella.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> The 1st post really needs updated with info regarding each of the cases this thread is supposed to represent. The FAQ that are there should be labeled that they only apply to the Primo, and some new FAQ started for the Luxe and Pro.


Agree. If someone would supply me with a FAQ and info for Pro and Luxe I will re-do the 1st post and add them .. and anything else you think we need in there.

We have a great group here.

I would like to thank everyone who contributes and helps with information and guides to those in need.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> This happens most often when not using the correct sized screwdriver with a good unworn/undamaged tip. Once the slots in the screws get damaged they become all the more harder (if not impossible) to remove without risking damaging the card.


FYI, there are several different kinds of "X" screws; Phillips and Pozidriv are the most common.


----------



## Wasseam

Is it possible to remove optical bay and replace with a hard drive bay on the luxe?


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> FYI, there are several different kinds of "X" screws; Phillips and Pozidriv are the most common.


i used a phillips #2 on my 220x kit which uses the same block.. they were very tight... i also had to use my much better tooled stanley screwdriver as he cheap one from dollar store broke the tips off it was so tight... be sure that you have the nut inset into the backplate before you try to turn the screw... once again these are very tight and need alot of pressure so the screwdriver doesnt slip and round out the slots...another option is a #2 phillips bit in a drill on torque setting but be careful not to bend the backplate in either case


----------



## Kiaxa

Hello, I'm new here. I stopped by to show off my Enthoo Pro build and ask a question

I'll start off with my rig first





And my question is: I want to use my pump and reservoir brackets in my Enthoo Pro for mounting, well a pump and a reservoir, what I was wondering is could I get away with using a single 90 fitting to route the reservoir to the pump something like this



But using the pump bracket instead of mounting the pump with stick like what pureoverclock did. Pump will be a laing D5 with an EK Res X3 150mm


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> i used a phillips #2 on my 220x kit which uses the same block.. they were very tight... i also had to use my much better tooled stanley screwdriver as he cheap one from dollar store broke the tips off it was so tight... be sure that you have the nut inset into the backplate before you try to turn the screw... once again these are very tight and need alot of pressure so the screwdriver doesnt slip and round out the slots...another option is a #2 phillips bit in a drill on torque setting but be careful not to bend the backplate in either case


I honestly don't know what tip size is needed. #1 or #2 .. or if they are Phillips or Pozidriv. They also likely have thread-lock on them to keep them from working loose.
I often use my little Bosch impact driver to remove tight screws. The sharp hits of the impact loosen things much easier and with less chance of stripping screw head then constant torque drivers. Using impact driver is pretty much a necessity for case screws on motorcycles.


----------



## tCoLL

Hey guys, I just finished my build. My buildlog is still a WIP, but I wanted to share my review of the Enthoo Luxe if any of you are thinking about buying.






Edit - here's a teaser


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tCoLL*
> 
> Hey guys, I just finished my build. My buildlog is still a WIP, but I wanted to share my review of the Enthoo Luxe if any of you are thinking about buying.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Edit - here's a teaser


nice. I saw your video the other day.


----------



## shadow85

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> i used a phillips #2 on my 220x kit which uses the same block.. they were very tight... i also had to use my much better tooled stanley screwdriver as he cheap one from dollar store broke the tips off it was so tight... be sure that you have the nut inset into the backplate before you try to turn the screw... once again these are very tight and need alot of pressure so the screwdriver doesnt slip and round out the slots...another option is a #2 phillips bit in a drill on torque setting but be careful not to bend the backplate in either case


I have already badly striped 2 of the screws, who at swifttech decided to put these screws in very tight, bettervyet have the backplate already detached.


----------



## kjrayo18

So i decided to try the air flow this way hopefully it gives results :X


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kjrayo18*
> 
> So i decided to try the air flow this way hopefully it gives results :X


that's how I have mine. H100i and a 120mm cougar fan on top intake. two 140's front intake.


----------



## kjrayo18

I think the 200mm fan that comes with the case is enough im just adding a 120 infront of it to move it faster. or do you think the 2 140s are better?


----------



## PureBlackFire

two 140's move more air. the 200 should be fine. I changed it for two 140's because I have the Luxe with most of the front intake covered and the 200mm was louder than the two 140's.


----------



## shremi

Well I wasn't going to show until it was finished but all of this latest builds have inspired me

Still needs some work but here is a teaser


----------



## welshy46

A quick water cooling question. How cold does the water on my seat need to get before I start thinking about getting the tram to work.


On the plus side I found a Kingston 120gb SSD I'd bought for my ps3 but never got round to fitting. Just after I'd installed Windows on a mechanical drive. So after installing it on the SSD I'm back up to nearly full speed.


----------



## HyperC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shremi*
> 
> Well I wasn't going to show until it was finished but all of this latest builds have inspired me
> 
> Still needs some work but here is a teaser


Nice job 2-360 and a 240







I myself thought about using rigid pipe but decided not to, just incase I need to remount or change anything


----------



## shadow85

Hey guys is there suppose to be a Power LED connector on the Luxe case? Because I can only find Power sw, reset sw, hdd led, hd audio, usb 2.0 and the usb 3.0 panel connectors. Are there suppose to be more somewhere?


----------



## welshy46

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shadow85*
> 
> Hey guys is there suppose to be a Power LED connector on the Luxe case? Because I can only find Power sw, reset sw, hdd led, hd audio, usb 2.0 and the usb 3.0 panel connectors. Are there suppose to be more somewhere?


No. The light around the power button is provided by the case LED's.


----------



## Pierre3400

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shremi*
> 
> Well I wasn't going to show until it was finished but all of this latest builds have inspired me
> 
> Still needs some work but here is a teaser
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/2262148/width/200/height/400


It does look good, but I am worried. How the hell did you connect up those GPUs? Whats the flow pattern? This seems very wrong! The bottom pipe should be connected to the left to make it correct, or the top pipe to the left. Thats just straight threw flow with minimal to no flow in the GPUs? Please tell me I am seeing this wrong?


----------



## jake93s

there is some really nice builds in this thread, hope to add mine to the collection xD
looking forward to working on the pc again, might go for hard tubing and water cool the gpu.
really want one of these graphics cards, would suit my build so well or not, i just really won't one
http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=193_1693&products_id=29714


----------



## welshy46

@jake93s welcome to the collection







, is that a graveyard for dead GPU's on your desk or are they destined for the cavernous Primo.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pierre3400*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *shremi*
> 
> Well I wasn't going to show until it was finished but all of this latest builds have inspired me
> 
> Still needs some work but here is a teaser
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/2262148/width/200/height/400
> 
> 
> 
> It does look good, but I am worried. How the hell did you connect up those GPUs? Whats the flow pattern? This seems very wrong! The bottom pipe should be connected to the left to make it correct, or the top pipe to the left. Thats just straight threw flow with minimal to no flow in the GPUs? Please tell me I am seeing this wrong?
Click to expand...

Good catch!!

I totally agree it looks like there would be very little if any flow through the GPUs hooked up like that. The easiest thing to do might be to remove the short piece of tube & fittings between the cards that is in line with the current inlet and outlets and put stop plugs there instead so that the cards run in serial. If shremi wantS to run the cards in parallel either the inlet or outlet needs moved to the other side from the other.



Basically put, in series 100% of your flow passes through each GPU block and adds the restriction to your loop of both blocks, and in parallel ~50% of the flow passes through each GPU block and together they roughly equal in restriction to that of a single card.


----------



## shremi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HyperC*
> 
> Nice job 2-360 and a 240
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I myself thought about using rigid pipe but decided not to, just incase I need to remount or change anything


Yeah man believe me you saved a lot of trouble and time by going with regular tubing
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pierre3400*
> 
> It does look good, but I am worried. How the hell did you connect up those GPUs? Whats the flow pattern? This seems very wrong! The bottom pipe should be connected to the left to make it correct, or the top pipe to the left. Thats just straight threw flow with minimal to no flow in the GPUs? Please tell me I am seeing this wrong?


Thanks man but unfortunately I had no other option with the rigid tubing.... The way my cpu and the motherboard works with the slots for SLI....







I understand this configuration isn't optimal but I don't know if that would affect that much in temps.... Worst case scenario is that i need to buy some more angles and try to make the tubing without any bends but I want to know does anyone knows if performance and temps are affected that much???

Thanks

Shremi


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shremi*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Pierre3400*
> 
> It does look good, but I am worried. How the hell did you connect up those GPUs? Whats the flow pattern? This seems very wrong! The bottom pipe should be connected to the left to make it correct, or the top pipe to the left. Thats just straight threw flow with minimal to no flow in the GPUs? Please tell me I am seeing this wrong?
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks man but unfortunately I had no other option with the rigid tubing.... The way my cpu and the motherboard works with the slots for SLI....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I understand this configuration isn't optimal but I don't know if that would affect that much in temps.... Worst case scenario is that i need to buy some more angles and try to make the tubing without any bends but I want to know does anyone knows if performance and temps are affected that much???
> 
> Thanks
> 
> Shremi
Click to expand...

Shremi,
The way you have it there will be little to no flow though your GPUs. All the flow is just going right past them and it will majorly affect temps and possibly overheat/damage your cards. Please tell me you are going to change it so you will have some flow through those cards.





If you don't believe Pierre3400 and I then by all means please post in the Watercooling Club thread and ask for more opinions. You will see just how serious this is.


----------



## Pierre3400

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Shremi,
> The way you have it there will be little to no flow though your GPUs. All the flow is just going right past them and it will majorly affect temps and possibly overheat/damage your cards. Please tell me you are going to change it so you will have some flow through those cards.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you don't believe Pierre3400 and I then by all means please post in the Watercooling Club thread and ask for more opinions. You will see just how serious this is.


You must do this! The water will be virtually not moving they way you have it!


----------



## Seid Dark

I have to say that I'm quite disappointed with quality of Primo's side panels. Window panel feels somewhat flimsy and does "clanking" sounds, especially after I start the PC or shut it down. I can even hear the sound to my bedroom, behind closed doors. I've got white version but friend has exactly the same problems with black Primo. It does not come from any component. This would be expected from 30€ case but this was 250€.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seid Dark*
> 
> I have to say that I'm quite disappointed with quality of Primo's side panels. Window panel feels somewhat flimsy and does "clanking" sounds, especially after I start the PC or shut it down. I can even hear the sound to my bedroom, behind closed doors. I've got white version but friend has exactly the same problems with black Primo. It does not come from any component. This would be expected from 30€ case but this was 250€.


My window never made a noise but many others said theirs creaked also when new. FWIW many of those also said it went away after a little while.


----------



## shremi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Shremi,
> The way you have it there will be little to no flow though your GPUs. All the flow is just going right past them and it will majorly affect temps and possibly overheat/damage your cards. Please tell me you are going to change it so you will have some flow through those cards.
> 
> If you don't believe Pierre3400 and I then by all means please post in the Watercooling Club thread and ask for more opinions. You will see just how serious this is.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pierre3400*
> 
> You must do this! The water will be virtually not moving they way you have it!


Well thanks guys for the heads up i have never tried this configuration before but i'll take your word for it ..... I think i will just disconnect the parallel tube and make it serial .... the pain is that i couldn't come up with a draining solution for my build i had the all the fittings required but the damn thing leaked ..... tried 4 times before giving up on the draining idea .... no i pay the consequences









But thanks for your input and your help guys i really appreciate it


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shremi*
> 
> Well thanks guys for the heads up i have never tried this configuration before but i'll take your word for it ..... I think i will just disconnect the parallel tube and make it serial .... the pain is that i couldn't come up with a draining solution for my build i had the all the fittings required but the damn thing leaked ..... tried 4 times before giving up on the draining idea .... no i pay the consequences
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But thanks for your input and your help guys i really appreciate it


yeah essentially the water would have past right by the gpus.... And not circulated the blocks at all... But good thing you posted


----------



## Seid Dark

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> My window never made a noise but many others said theirs creaked also when new. FWIW many of those also said it went away after a little while.


I hope so. Friend has owned the same case for 6 months and it still makes noise though.


----------



## welshy46

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seid Dark*
> 
> I hope so. Friend has owned the same case for 6 months and it still makes noise though.


I'm sure you have already checked but could it be your HDD cages are loose. Also as just about the whole case can be taken apart with a screwdriver, have you checked all the screws are securely fastened.


----------



## Krahe

Have owned the Primo for about 6 months but because of work commitments have not started a build, have just placed an order @ FrozenCPU so hopefully over the xmas break will get a bit done.


----------



## johnnyw

Does anyone have 360/420 45mm thick rad at the top of Enthoo Pro with single set of fans? Ordered the case few days ago, now planning on watercooling parts. Initial plan was to get alphacool 360 xt45 to roof with push fans & 240 UT60 to front @ push pull. But want to make sure the 45mm will fit before filling the order, if not i think might need to settle for 360 ST30.


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *johnnyw*
> 
> Does anyone have 360/420 45mm thick rad at the top of Enthoo Pro with single set of fans? Ordered the case few days ago, now planning on watercooling parts. Initial plan was to get alphacool 360 xt45 to roof with push fans & 240 UT60 to front @ push pull. But want to make sure the 45mm will fit before filling the order, if not i think might need to settle for 360 ST30.


it depends on your motherboard and ram. the inside of the case only has 65mm to the top of the motherboard. if the 8-pin power and vrm heatsink are pretty much at the top of the board, you will run into some conflicts.


----------



## johnnyw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PureBlackFire*
> 
> it depends on your motherboard and ram. the inside of the case only has 65mm to the top of the motherboard. if the 8-pin power and vrm heatsink are pretty much at the top of the board, you will run into some conflicts.


Board is this one



And these rams:



So i guess it shoud be ok, but obviously its not sure. Really dunno what to do now, probably changing to atx board & never cpi sometime next year, wouldnt be ideal to need replace rad again then.


----------



## Pierre3400

Okay guys,

I finally got my x99 build booted and running, not running well, but running.

I am having some serious PWM issues. As in, not a single rad fan spinning. For now, its been solved with running one rad with all fans on full speed, via molex to 3pin, but this is not a long term solution.

I have now gotten as far as, it has to be the PWM hubs that are doing something wrong, or i did something wrong.

I have 2 hubs, both er original Phanteks PWM hubs, one has 6 fans connected, one per output of course. Then i have the molex connected (straight from the PSU, as in without the short cable that is provided with the kit), then i have the pwm cable.

Now, plugging that into my Aqauero 6 does nothing. Then i tried it on the motherboard, the motherboard knows if a fan is connected, yet with the pwm cable to the pwm hub, it says nothing is connected.

Honestly, does anyone have a clue why my PWM hubs are not working?

EDIT

I just tried with the provided PWM cable, not any different! What am i doing wrong?


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *johnnyw*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *PureBlackFire*
> 
> it depends on your motherboard and ram. the inside of the case only has 65mm to the top of the motherboard. if the 8-pin power and vrm heatsink are pretty much at the top of the board, you will run into some conflicts.
> 
> 
> 
> Board is this one
> 
> 
> 
> And these rams:
> 
> 
> 
> So i guess it shoud be ok, but obviously its not sure. Really dunno what to do now, probably changing to atx board & never cpi sometime next year, wouldnt be ideal to need replace rad again then.
Click to expand...

your only issue with that motherboard will be the height of your ram. this is where it hurts that phanteks has centered mounts rather than offset. just to be on the safe side, get a thinner rad.


----------



## welshy46

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PureBlackFire*
> 
> your only issue with that motherboard will be the height of your ram. this is where it hurts that phanteks has centered mounts rather than offset. just to be on the safe side, get a thinner rad.


Pureblack is correct in saying a 45mm 360mm rad and fans might not fit with some motherboards. The metal case of the luxe is the same as the pro. I have had a 360mm UT45 alphacool rad in the top with fans, with the Gigabyte Z87x OC I had. The 8 pin ATX was right at the top of the board. so I had to cut a bit off the corner of a fan to make it fit.

You can see in the back corner where I have had to nibble a bit off.


Thankfully with the Gigabyte G1 sniper you have, is the 4 pin ATX connector is lower than the depth of the rad + fan. Rad box is 8 pin ATX that conflicts with fan, blue box is where rad + fan will be, green box is where the ATX power connector goes on your board.


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *johnnyw*
> 
> Board is this one
> 
> 
> 
> And these rams:
> 
> 
> 
> So i guess it shoud be ok, but obviously its not sure. Really dunno what to do now, probably changing to atx board & never cpi sometime next year, wouldnt be ideal to need replace rad again then.


Personally is get the 30mm bc one you know it will work and two if the. 45 does fit it's going to make working on the case hard and probably not look as nice


----------



## welshy46

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pierre3400*
> 
> Okay guys,
> 
> I finally got my x99 build booted and running, not running well, but running.
> 
> I am having some serious PWM issues. As in, not a single rad fan spinning. For now, its been solved with running one rad with all fans on full speed, via molex to 3pin, but this is not a long term solution.
> 
> I have now gotten as far as, it has to be the PWM hubs that are doing something wrong, or i did something wrong.
> 
> I have 2 hubs, both er original Phanteks PWM hubs, one has 6 fans connected, one per output of course. Then i have the molex connected (straight from the PSU, as in without the short cable that is provided with the kit), then i have the pwm cable.
> 
> Now, plugging that into my Aqauero 6 does nothing. Then i tried it on the motherboard, the motherboard knows if a fan is connected, yet with the pwm cable to the pwm hub, it says nothing is connected.
> 
> Honestly, does anyone have a clue why my PWM hubs are not working?
> 
> EDIT
> 
> I just tried with the provided PWM cable, not any different! What am i doing wrong?


Have you installed command Centre. I was having the same issue until I installed Ai suite on my Asus board. Once that was running it took control of the fans.


----------



## Pierre3400

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *welshy46*
> 
> Have you installed command Centre. I was having the same issue until I installed Ai suite on my Asus board. Once that was running it took control of the fans.


No that I have not, as i dont plan on using the PWM on the motherboard, it was only a test.

But i plugged my Pumps PWM into the motherboard, and it was able to see if just fine, just not adjust them, which is so damn strange.


----------



## Pierre3400

Basically, its like my PWM hubs are both dead?!


----------



## welshy46

I know nothing of the workings of the software of the aquaero, but is their a test function so the software can calibrate the fans. Again I'm only going off what happened with mine using Ai suite.


----------



## Pierre3400

Well, i just hooked up a PWM fan to the Aquaero, and that spins up just fine.

2 options left.

Both PWM hubs are dead or the pwm wires are broken?

The PWM wires are working fine. The fans work. The issue has got to be the hubs? I just dont see where else this could be going on.


----------



## welshy46

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pierre3400*
> 
> Basically, its like my PWM hubs are both dead?!


If the blue LED lights up for the Phanteks logo then the fans should be getting power. You said in earlier post you plugged in the molex, the PWM hub runs off SATA power connector. someone over in the water cooling thread might have the answer to getting them to run off the aquaero.


----------



## Pierre3400

I dont know what blue LED your talking about, I have the PWM hubs that come with the Entho Primo, and they use Molex power, not Sata.


----------



## welshy46

Ahh I have the luxe which only gets one hub, the extra ones you can buy come with a cover with an illuminated Phanteks logo on it. i bought two and all three work. I didn't realise the Primos had molex. It's pretty bad luck to have two fail on the same case.


----------



## Pierre3400

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *welshy46*
> 
> Ahh I have the luxe which only gets one hub, the extra ones you can buy come with a cover with an illuminated Phanteks logo on it. i bought two and all three work. I didn't realise the Primos had molex. It's pretty bad luck to have two fail on the same case.


Primo also came with one, but i got another one. I am testing this left right and center.

Honestly looks like BOTH PMW hubs are dead.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pierre3400*
> 
> I dont know what blue LED your talking about, I have the PWM hubs that come with the Entho Primo, and they use Molex power, not Sata.


why does the "step up" in cases have an older standard in the molex connector.... it's it to free up satas for drives/other uses or is there something I'm missing?


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pierre3400*
> 
> Primo also came with one, but i got another one. I am testing this left right and center.
> 
> Honestly looks like BOTH PMW hubs are dead.


Have you hooked up a PWM fan to PSU power and motherboard PWM signal and been able to adjust the fan speed? If you can't do this, than it's most likely not the Phanteks PWM controlled variable voltage 3-pin fan hub that is the problem.


----------



## Spork13

Did some fan additions today.
My Pro now has 2 x 140mm intakes where the 200mm one was and another at the bottom front.
The 200 has been movet to top rear as an exhaust.
I also added another 140 so it sits on the PSU shroud, blowing directly onto and between the GPU's

Result: (Have only had one "quick" [maybe an hourish] gaming session so far:
Yet to try any stress testing, or Xfire. (FC4 doesn't play nicely with 2 x ATI cards)

Positive:
CPU about 15c cooler. GPU almost 20c cooler!
Quieter under load - GPU fans aren't screaming away @ 100% because of 80c+ temps.

Negative:
Using about 20W more power idle and load to keep dem fans spinning.
Louder at idle. Both exhaust fans are non PWM, and ASUS control suite will only allow them to run flat out.
Will try some other software solutions, or swap one of them for a PWM fan and see if that helps.

edit:
Couldn't do anything via software. Remembered that I couldn't seem to control that particular fan header before either, so had moved fan to a different one. Now I'm using it again (total of 8 fans on 5 headers) so I just put a couple of LNA's on the fans attached to it - PC is near silent now even in "Turbo" mode.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Pierre3400*
> 
> I dont know what blue LED your talking about, I have the PWM hubs that come with the Entho Primo, and they use Molex power, not Sata.
> 
> 
> 
> why does the "step up" in cases have an older standard in the molex connector.... it's it to free up satas for drives/other uses or is there something I'm missing?
Click to expand...

Instead of 'step up', you might be better off to think of the Primo as 'older' and the Luxe / Pro / EVOLV cases as a ~ year 'newer'. Then perhaps the Molex / SATA thing starts to make more sense.


----------



## Pierre3400

I hooked up a PWM fan to both my Aquareo and the motherboard, and its works flawless, but with the hubs.. nothing, no life signs at all. I even tried to see if it was the PSU with issues.

Hooked up a spare PSU, and only hooked the hub to it, and then a 3pin fan in fan1 and the pwm cable from the Aquaero/motherboard. Nothing. Both hubs appear dead, and lord knows how or why!


----------



## johnnyw

I know this has been discussed endlesly allready. But how i actually need to connect the enthoo pro fan hub? Do i need to connect both cpu fan header to mobo PWM/CPU connector & sata to psu, or just cpu header to mobo alone?


----------



## welshy46

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *johnnyw*
> 
> I know this has been discussed endlesly allready. But how i actually need to connect the enthoo pro fan hub? Do i need to connect both cpu fan header to mobo PWM/CPU connector & sata to psu, or just cpu header to mobo alone?


connect all of your fans to the PWM hub, make sure you have a fan plugged into number 1, the white connector on hub. PWM cable from hub to CPU PWM header. Connect power via a SATA connector to run fans. The PWM is only used to give a signal to the hub. good luck, some of us haven't had much of it.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *johnnyw*
> 
> I know this has been discussed endlesly allready. But how i actually need to connect the enthoo pro fan hub? Do i need to connect both cpu fan header to mobo PWM/CPU connector & sata to psu, or just cpu header to mobo alone?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *welshy46*
> 
> connect all of your fans to the PWM hub, make sure you have a fan plugged into number 1, the white connector on hub. PWM cable from hub to CPU PWM header. Connect power via a SATA connector to run fans. The PWM is only used to give a signal to the hub. good luck, some of us haven't had much of it.


What welshy said.
The PWM signal is used to change the voltage going to the fans on the hub .. the 12v supplied by SATA from PSU.







.


----------



## shremi

Guys I need your help something is terribly wrong...... After long hours of hard work and infinite leaks I was able to finally get my system up and running I fired it up only to have the most disappointing news the temps in my system are ridiculously high .... The cpu reached the 100 on cine bench ..... Hell I even added an extra 420 rad to my build it doesn't make any sense at all .....

The pumps are fine I heard them running the tubing is fine you guys have seen it I even make the correction you guys pointed me out I can only narrow my options to 2 things .... A led strip connected to a molex or the custom psu cables that I have made done for my system i order d from ensourced which is a very reputable guy and I have never heard of any problems with his sleeving I am currently draining and I hope I can come back in an hour or so to hear your thoughts on this .... Any help would be appreciated

Edit I have checked already and no I didn't forgot to add thermal paste to the cpu wb and also the gpu temps are extremely high

Thanks Shremi


----------



## Jeemil89

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shremi*
> 
> Guys I need your help something is terribly wrong...... After long hours of hard work and infinite leaks I was able to finally get my system up and running I fired it up only to have the most disappointing news the temps in my system are ridiculously high .... The cpu reached the 100 on cine bench ..... Hell I even added an extra 420 rad to my build it doesn't make any sense at all .....
> 
> The pumps are fine I heard them running the tubing is fine you guys have seen it I even make the correction you guys pointed me out I can only narrow my options to 2 things .... A led strip connected to a molex or the custom psu cables that I have made done for my system i order d from ensourced which is a very reputable guy and I have never heard of any problems with his sleeving I am currently draining and I hope I can come back in an hour or so to hear your thoughts on this .... Any help would be appreciated
> 
> Edit I have checked already and no I didn't forgot to add thermal paste to the cpu wb and also the gpu temps are extremely high
> 
> Thanks Shremi


Are u sure everything is correctly installed (Post pictures how you fixed the GPU issue)? Did you remember to remove the plastic cover on the CPU block before installing? double check everything. Post a picture of your loop setup.


----------



## shremi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeemil89*
> 
> Are u sure everything is correctly installed (Post pictures how you fixed the GPU issue)? Did you remember to remove the plastic cover on the CPU block before installing? double check everything. Post a picture of your loop setup.


I'm pretty sure everything is properly installed I also removed and re checked the cpu block in case that I forgot something but no everything seems fine....

Here is the only picture I can get right now it was from my previous post but I modified the top port on the gpu from the right to the left

Edit I found one with the port modified


----------



## shremi

Well something was definitely wrong with the cables my psu just died on me


----------



## welshy46

I'm at work using my phone, but from what I can make out it looks like you have two runs coming out of the top rad. One going to your CPU and one to your Gpu's. It should be one fron the rad to the CPU and then onto your GPU'S. Most likely this is causing the water to run to the Gpu's and bypassing your CPU. A better pic preferably with arrows showing the route would be helpfull.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *welshy46*
> 
> I'm at work using my phone, but from what I can make out it looks like you have two runs coming out of the top rad. One going to your CPU and one to your Gpu's. It should be one fron the rad to the CPU and then onto your GPU'S. Most likely this is causing the water to run to the Gpu's and bypassing your CPU. A better pic preferably with arrows showing the route would be helpfull.


I can't tell the direction flow or exactly what happens with the routing over to the right between the bottom rad and front rad where it's partially blocked by the panel, but I can't see anything wrong with how shremi has it routed. I may have the overall direction of flow reversed with my arrows, but I see nothing wrong with it like it is ...


----------



## welshy46

That's why I asked shremi to clarify how the loop is set up. With it the way you have it. The flow is wrong for the EK CPU block. It should be in on the left, out on the right. Although I can't see how this alone would affect temps so much.


----------



## Jeemil89

The flow is reversed to what Unicronhunter pictured but still everything looks good. I can't see how bad PSU cables could affect temps, so it's still something wrong in your loop. check that you have good flow when running the pump.


----------



## johnnyw

Ok thx guys. Will see if it works, if not then just have to get some external controller.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> What welshy said.
> The PWM signal is used to change the voltage going to the fans on the hub .. the 12v supplied by SATA from PSU.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


Well doesnt seem to work. Tried all the 4pin/pwm headers on mobo where the cable was able to reach & fans were @ full speed no matter what i set on bios. I guess need to get fan controller


----------



## welshy46

That's why I asked shremi to clarify
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *johnnyw*
> 
> Ok thx guys. Will see if it works, if not then just have to get some external controller.
> Well doesnt seem to work. Tried all the 4pin/pwm headers on mobo where the cable was able to reach & fans were @ full speed no matter what i set on bios. I guess need to get fan controller


I couldn't get the hubs to work in mine until I loaded Asus' Ai suite. Also only PWM headers on board that actually work as PWM were the CPU and opt CPU on my Asus z87 Sabretooth.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Well, with temps like shremi is having I'd suspect something blocking flow. If you had that CPU block apart at all you might want to make sure you didn't put the top on rotated 90° from how it's supposed to go. That's an issue I've seen quite a few times and that will stop flow almost completely.

Another common issue blocking flow is fitting threads going into GPU blocks so long that they block flow. Some blocks need shorter fitting threads, either by filing them down a bit or by using spacers which they sell for that purpose. Like these: http://www.ekwb.com/shop/accessories/fittings/extenders-and-spacers/ek-g1-4-spacer-with-o-ring.html

Other than that all I can think of is an airlocked pump or something. Usually leaving the fill port on the res loose when bleeding helps keep that from happening.

If none of that helps might want to post your issues with as good of pics as you can manage in the Watercooling Club thread. That's usually a good place to get the most help figuring something like this out.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shremi*
> 
> Guys I need your help something is terribly wrong...... After long hours of hard work and infinite leaks I was able to finally get my system up and running I fired it up only to have the most disappointing news the temps in my system are ridiculously high .... The cpu reached the 100 on cine bench ..... Hell I even added an extra 420 rad to my build it doesn't make any sense at all .....
> 
> The pumps are fine I heard them running the tubing is fine you guys have seen it I even make the correction you guys pointed me out I can only narrow my options to 2 things .... A led strip connected to a molex or the custom psu cables that I have made done for my system i order d from ensourced which is a very reputable guy and I have never heard of any problems with his sleeving I am currently draining and I hope I can come back in an hour or so to hear your thoughts on this .... Any help would be appreciated
> 
> Edit I have checked already and no I didn't forgot to add thermal paste to the cpu wb and also the gpu temps are extremely high
> 
> Thanks Shremi


clarify the flow path to us shemi. If the path is like unicr0nhunter depicts then you have the in and out in the block switched which will impair flow. I _can´t_ tell from the picture where is the in or out of the pump. The block seems to be mounted on the correct orientation but all the suggestion uni did are sound so start from there if the flow is correct.


----------



## johnnyw

Pic of my enthoo pro. ( poor quality sadly )



I know mAtx mobo does look bit silly, but will be filling the case with watercooling parts near future







I really hope some company makes waterblock to MSI 980 gaming soon so can get it under water aswell.


----------



## welshy46

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *johnnyw*
> 
> Pic of my enthoo pro. ( poor quality sadly )
> 
> 
> 
> I know mAtx mobo does look bit silly, but will be filling the case with watercooling parts near future
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I really hope some company makes waterblock to MSI 980 gaming soon so can get it under water aswell.


It could do with a bigger CPU cooler







sorry I see that few non water cooled rigs these days, I forgot how massive air coolers are. At least with the mATX you'll have plenty of space when you start water cooling.


----------



## johnnyw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *welshy46*
> 
> It could do with a bigger CPU cooler
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> sorry I see that few non water cooled rigs these days, I forgot how massive air coolers are. At least with the mATX you'll have plenty of space when you start water cooling.


Ye, size is topend aircoolers is quite ridicilous these days. Was quite shocked myself aswell to get back into air cooling after had watercooled rig before this







Its really pain in the ass to work with aswell, example if you need to take ram out, you also need to remove the cooler.

Actually thought to put that empty space below mobo to "good use" when moving to water, long & thick tube res horizontally mounted should look nice there. Its like empty canvas now, so many different ideas inside my head


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *johnnyw*
> 
> Ok thx guys. Will see if it works, if not then just have to get some external controller.
> Well doesnt seem to work. Tried all the 4pin/pwm headers on mobo where the cable was able to reach & fans were @ full speed no matter what i set on bios. I guess need to get fan controller


Try testing your 4 pin headers to see which are PWM controlled. Usually only the CPU fan header and possibly the CPU fan opt header are PWM controlled .. regardless of what anyone, even manual say.









Vest way I know of to prove it is power the fan from PSU on pins 1 & 2 (grd & 12v) with pins 3 & 4 (rpm & PWM) to motherboard. If fan runs full speed all the time it's not PWM controlled .. unless PWM is set to 100%. Here's wiring diagram. wire colors are not always the same, but pin-out is always the same.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *welshy46*
> 
> That's why I asked shremi to clarify
> I couldn't get the hubs to work in mine until I loaded Asus' Ai suite. Also only PWM headers on board that actually work as PWM were the CPU and opt CPU on my Asus z87 Sabretooth.


----------



## johnnyw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Try testing your 4 pin headers to see which are PWM controlled. Usually only the CPU fan header and possibly the CPU fan opt header are PWM controlled .. regardless of what anyone, even manual say.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Vest way I know of to prove it is power the fan from PSU on pins 1 & 2 (grd & 12v) with pins 3 & 4 (rpm & PWM) to motherboard. If fan runs full speed all the time it's not PWM controlled .. unless PWM is set to 100%. Here's wiring diagram. wire colors are not always the same, but pin-out is always the same.


Allready tested all possbile headers, cpu which is set to pwm mode at bios, also tested all chassis fan headers (which also are 4 pin & supposed to be pwm controlled ) where that pwm cable reached and it was just same with those.


----------



## Comp4k

Still have some stuff to do before build is finalized, but it's mostly complete now



Waiting on White Sleeved ATX extension, LED strip, and for Galax to release their GTX 970 HOF.


----------



## shremi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> clarify the flow path to us shemi. If the path is like unicr0nhunter depicts then you have the in and out in the block switched which will impair flow. I _can´t_ tell from the picture where is the in or out of the pump. The block seems to be mounted on the correct orientation but all the suggestion uni did are sound so start from there if the flow is correct.


Well guys after the most irritating and annoying night of my life i finally got things up and running again .....

The orientation of my loop is like this

From the reservoir→to the back of the case where i have dual MCP50X→ To the front rad → To the bottom rad → GPU → Top Rad → CPU → Back to the reservoir ....

Here is what happened yesterday sorry for the late reply but i had to pull out an all nighter trying to fix the problem

1.- I drained everything and checked again if the CPU block had thermal paste on it.... then filled again only to notice that the temps were about the same
2.- Drained everything again and check with the stock PSU cables .... Same results
3.- Changed back my CPU block to my older one with the stock PSU cables and bam significantly better temps on both the CPU and the GPU i don't know if i somehow screwed up the jet plate installation on the CPU block but i will find out later on tonight it seems like it but i don't think i am getting the results i was hoping for....
4.- Without draining the loop i switched to the custom cables only to find out that something is wrong because i was getting the message in the bios please reconnect the cables for this card and try again disconnected and reconnected like a million times and the same results until i gave up and switched to the original PSU cables for the GPUs.

So now i have a system running but as i said i am getting some weird results regarding temps ....i will try to get out most of the air bubbles out until i can figure out what to do next... what i am saying is that in my previous build i was getting much better temps .... on the previous system i had the 360 in pull only and the 240 in p/p .... In this system i have the 360 + a 420 in p/p and the 240 in push only .... I switched from 2 d5s to this pumps but both of my pumps are running at about 2500 RPM so i don't think its a flow issue i can see the water traveling a lot faster that with the initial cpu block .... i used 1/2 3/4 soft tubing on my last build and on this one i am using E22 acylic tube but i dont think this is a problem... then i am thinking i am not running the fans at the optimal speed but with the AP15 i am using 1200 rpms and with the phanteks fans i am using 1100 rpms... Finally the last thing that i can think of is that i used plastidip to paint the top radiator body not the fins only the body i don't know if somehow this paint is making the radiator to hold up a lot of heat translating into a much worse heat to the entire loop ...

But i am open to any suggestions and i want to thank everyone who took their time to help me out i really appreciate it

Shremi


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shremi*
> 
> Well guys after the most irritating and annoying night of my life i finally got things up and running again .....
> 
> The orientation of my loop is like this
> 
> From the reservoir→to the back of the case where i have dual MCP50X→ To the front rad → To the bottom rad → GPU → Top Rad → CPU → Back to the reservoir ....
> 
> Here is what happened yesterday sorry for the late reply but i had to pull out an all nighter trying to fix the problem
> 
> 1.- I drained everything and checked again if the CPU block had thermal paste on it.... then filled again only to notice that the temps were about the same
> 2.- Drained everything again and check with the stock PSU cables .... Same results
> 3.- Changed back my CPU block to my older one with the stock PSU cables and bam significantly better temps on both the CPU and the GPU i don't know if i somehow screwed up the jet plate installation on the CPU block but i will find out later on tonight it seems like it but i don't think i am getting the results i was hoping for....
> 4.- Without draining the loop i switched to the custom cables only to find out that something is wrong because i was getting the message in the bios please reconnect the cables for this card and try again disconnected and reconnected like a million times and the same results until i gave up and switched to the original PSU cables for the GPUs.
> 
> So now i have a system running but as i said i am getting some weird results regarding temps ....i will try to get out most of the air bubbles out until i can figure out what to do next... what i am saying is that in my previous build i was getting much better temps .... on the previous system i had the 360 in pull only and the 240 in p/p .... In this system i have the 360 + a 420 in p/p and the 240 in push only .... I switched from 2 d5s to this pumps but both of my pumps are running at about 2500 RPM so i don't think its a flow issue i can see the water traveling a lot faster that with the initial cpu block .... i used 1/2 3/4 soft tubing on my last build and on this one i am using E22 acylic tube but i dont think this is a problem... then i am thinking i am not running the fans at the optimal speed but with the AP15 i am using 1200 rpms and with the phanteks fans i am using 1100 rpms... Finally the last thing that i can think of is that i used plastidip to paint the top radiator body not the fins only the body i don't know if somehow this paint is making the radiator to hold up a lot of heat translating into a much worse heat to the entire loop ...
> 
> But i am open to any suggestions and i want to thank everyone who took their time to help me out i really appreciate it
> 
> Shremi


By any chance did you swap out inserts or jet plates? I ask this because I had a frustrating time trying to figure out why temps were bad when I originally installed my ek supremacy evo cpu block. Turned out that my block was missing the pin that goes in the insert. As for the new cables try pushing them in I had mine do the same with error booting and it was bc one pin was not seated properly. I'm sure you tried that allready but just figure I chime in you never know


----------



## shremi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> By any chance did you swap out inserts or jet plates? I ask this because I had a frustrating time trying to figure out why temps were bad when I originally installed my ek supremacy evo cpu block. Turned out that my block was missing the pin that goes in the insert. As for the new cables try pushing them in I had mine do the same with error booting and it was bc one pin was not seated properly. I'm sure you tried that allready but just figure I chime in you never know


Yeah i swapped the inserts and the jet plate following the instructions since i am using a 2011-3 cpu but i am going to redo the cpu block later on i just want to make sure i get the proper temps before moving any more parts ... as for the psu cables well i dont know what is going on maybe a short on one cable i will also try to inspect everything carefully later on tonight...

i know the is a guide in video for the supremacy evo somehwere on youtube which i will follow tonight ... but what pin are you talking about ??? maybe i missed it


----------



## emsj86

It's a called a pin but doesn't look like a pin that goes in the clear or black insert depending if you have a plexi top or not. In this picture it is the top left part. What happened when I was missing this part the water still flowed through but the temps were very high.


----------



## shremi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> It's a called a pin but doesn't look like a pin that goes in the clear or black insert depending if you have a plexi top or not. In this picture it is the top left part. What happened when I was missing this part the water still flowed through but the temps were very high.


I believe i did installed it but i will double check tonight .... Thanks for the help


----------



## LandonAaron

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Well, with temps like shremi is having I'd suspect something blocking flow. If you had that CPU block apart at all you might want to make sure you didn't put the top on rotated 90° from how it's supposed to go. That's an issue I've seen quite a few times and that will stop flow almost completely.
> 
> Another common issue blocking flow is fitting threads going into GPU blocks so long that they block flow. Some blocks need shorter fitting threads, either by filing them down a bit or by using spacers which they sell for that purpose. Like these: http://www.ekwb.com/shop/accessories/fittings/extenders-and-spacers/ek-g1-4-spacer-with-o-ring.html
> 
> Other than that all I can think of is an airlocked pump or something. Usually leaving the fill port on the res loose when bleeding helps keep that from happening.
> 
> If none of that helps might want to post your issues with as good of pics as you can manage in the Watercooling Club thread. That's usually a good place to get the most help figuring something like this out.


My EK GPU block takes super short threads. But you can't screw in longer threads at all, because it just leaks like crazy since the O ring doesnt' press against the block. But yes some block require very short threads on the fittings.


----------



## The Redtide

shremi, best to leave no stone unturned. Having said that ... are all the fans on your upper and lower radiator exhausting?


----------



## shremi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The Redtide*
> 
> shremi, best to leave no stone unturned. Having said that ... are all the fans on your upper and lower radiator exhausting?


Hello all and again thanks for the replys .... i feel like an idiot my fans were not set up properly i was making a sandwich out of each radiator with the flow..... reverted the mistake temps seems much better now thanks everyone for the suggestions and the help


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shremi*
> 
> Hello all and again thanks for the replys .... i feel like an idiot my fans were not set up properly i was making a sandwich out of each radiator with the flow..... reverted the mistake temps seems much better now thanks everyone for the suggestions and the help


Someone had turkey sandwiches on their mind. Wow. Airflow.


----------



## Spork13

My parcel from the other day.
http://s808.photobucket.com/user/Sporkitus/media/PB270001_zps6b73487f.jpg.html

Two of them replaced the 200mm std. fan in the front.
http://s808.photobucket.com/user/Sporkitus/media/PB270004_zps012d2219.jpg.html

A 3rd went behind these, horizontal, pulling more fresh air in from below.

The 4th is attached to the front edge of the PSU shroud with some double sided tape. One day I plan on making a bracket for it and probably raising it up about 1cm so it's blowing on the top side (pcb) of the top GPU.

The 200mm fan was too good tom waste.
The nice long screws Phantechs supply were a tad short, as it's 30mm thick. Some drilling each mounting hole so the head of the screws would sit a few mm inside the fan casing allowed them to screw into the small holes on the top of the case, with no modding needed to the case. This places it almost exactly above the centre of the MB, over and slightly behind the CPU HSF exhausting more hot air.

http://s808.photobucket.com/user/Sporkitus/media/PB270006_zpsbfe77074.jpg.html

This has helped temps, esp; GPU's, enormously, and actually made it all much quieter under gaming load as the GPU fans can cope easilly with the heat @ 45%. Previously they were running @ 100%!

Will take some more pics of fans mounted if anyone's interested.

I think there might still be some room for improvement, as one of my MB's 5 fan headers doesn't seem to work properly (pwm) so the 2 exhaust fans are on LNA's at the moment. I might try hooking them up to the Phantechs hob and connection CPU2 to that and a splitter from CPU1 to the 2 CPU fans.


----------



## welshy46

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shremi*
> 
> Hello all and again thanks for the replys .... i feel like an idiot my fans were not set up properly i was making a sandwich out of each radiator with the flow..... reverted the mistake temps seems much better now thanks everyone for the suggestions and the help


Glad to see a positive non wallet destroying conclusion.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

I
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *welshy46*
> 
> Glad to see a positive non wallet destroying conclusion.


didn't realize you had rads in push pull







glad you got it sorted though


----------



## michaelius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spork13*
> 
> Two of them replaced the 200mm std. fan in the front.


Is stock 200mm fan really bad ? I'm thinking about picking Evolv soon so should I calculate cost of buying 2x140mm into it or will Phanteks 200m be enough for silent system with i5 4690 and single GPU ?


----------



## VulgarDisplay88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *michaelius*
> 
> Is stock 200mm fan really bad ? I'm thinking about picking Evolv soon so should I calculate cost of buying 2x140mm into it or will Phanteks 200m be enough for silent system with i5 4690 and single GPU ?


I'm running a 4690k and a 970 in the Evolv and temps are good using the stock fans.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *michaelius*
> 
> Is stock 200mm fan really bad ? I'm thinking about picking Evolv soon so should I calculate cost of buying 2x140mm into it or will Phanteks 200m be enough for silent system with i5 4690 and single GPU ?


the stock fans aren't bad but 2 140s would improve airflow


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *michaelius*
> 
> Is stock 200mm fan really bad ? I'm thinking about picking Evolv soon so should I calculate cost of buying 2x140mm into it or will Phanteks 200m be enough for silent system with i5 4690 and single GPU ?


Theres nothing wrong with the included 200mm. It runs good and quiet. If you want more airflow, you can go with 2x 120/140s. I would start out with the 200mm, see how you like it, and if you're unhappy, then buy some other fans.


----------



## waveaddict

Enthoo Luxe owners.
Can anyone tell me if the top recess fan grill,when removed can install 25mm fans in the recess and be flush with top?Or even,how deep is that recess.



Also,how much room is there above the MOBO?
sorry if this has been answered already.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

In the Luxe and Pro there's 65mm between the top of the mobo and the chassis, and in the Luxe there's also room for another layer of 25mm thick fans above that under the removable filter.


----------



## waveaddict

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> In the Luxe and Pro there's 65mm between the top of the mobo and the chassis, and in the Luxe there's also room for another layer of 25mm thick fans above that under the removable filter.


Thanks bro,+rep


----------



## Spork13

As others have noted, nothing at all "wrong" with the 200, but my PC is all air cooled, with a CPU and 2 x GPU's that are all notoriously hot, so I needed the most air flow I could get.,
The 200 is near silent at lower speeds, and moves a decent volume of air. If you have cooler running components than I do it should be perfectly alright.


----------



## michaelius

Ok all clear now









I'm used to Silverstone 3x180mm airflow so I got a bit oversensitive about possible lack of airflow









Also a small question since I was only lurking overclock.net for last few months - will this thread also cover Evolve or there's going to be something separate for it ?


----------



## Spork13

This thread started as the Primo thread, but now includes the Luxe and the Pro, pretty sure Evolve owners will be welcome too.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spork13*
> 
> This thread started as the Primo thread, but now includes the Luxe and the Pro, pretty sure Evolve owners will be welcome too.


agreed. ..I think the evolv is more of the same quality in sff I'd like one that small for fiance but I detest building in small quarters


----------



## welshy46

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> agreed. ..I think the evolv is more of the same quality in sff I'd like one that small for fiance but I detest building in small quarters


I asked my fiance, but she said she prefers the big ones. She wants a Caselabs M8, I think it's a girth thing









I'm kidding. I'm single, I spent this weekend on modding duty. Not standing outside of clothes shops. After being told you can't install a rev 1 290x block on a rev 2.2 card, I modded mine to fit







then i ghetto rigged together a cooling loop to see if it would work. It does, and after leaving it running fumark on 1440p all night. It works well. it should as the card has a Hexa 720 rad all to itself. I've got a 60mm alphacool 360mm rad and more acrylic on the way, so that's another weekend of modding to look forward too







I will teach myself how to bend acrylic tubes properly.

my ghetto rigged rig.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

I like that setup... That would be cool on a back panel of my case but it would need quick disconnects.... I'm still looking for a used ek 670 gtx block for my 760gtx.... Hard to find though with so many using them on reference 970s


----------



## Darkness Sakura

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *welshy46*
> 
> I asked my fiance, but she said she prefers the big ones. She wants a Caselabs M8, I think it's a girth thing
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm kidding. I'm single, I spent this weekend on modding duty. Not standing outside of clothes shops. After being told you can't install a rev 1 290x block on a rev 2.2 card, I modded mine to fit
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> then i ghetto rigged together a cooling loop to see if it would work. It does, and after leaving it running fumark on 1440p all night. It works well. it should as the card has a Hexa 720 rad all to itself. I've got a 60mm alphacool 360mm rad and more acrylic on the way, so that's another weekend of modding to look forward too
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I will teach myself how to bend acrylic tubes properly.
> 
> my ghetto rigged rig.


Interesting setup, weird but if it works... lol what are the temps?


----------



## welshy46

It's err different. Even after 12 hours of furmark with a healthy overclock it didn't go over 45c. Been playing Battlefield 4 for a couple of hours and it's not gone over 38c. It does have the benefit of 2 360's with 6x120mm fans in pull. I tried to use the spare Phanteks PWM hub I've got, but couldn't get it to work on the only PWM header I could reach. So I stuck a fan controller to the back of the rad. It's got to be the worlds first complete all in one cooler. The pump is also sruck to it.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *welshy46*
> 
> It's err different. Even after 12 hours of furmark with a healthy overclock it didn't go over 45c. Been playing Battlefield 4 for a couple of hours and it's not gone over 38c. It does have the benefit of 2 360's with 6x120mm fans in pull. I tried to use the spare Phanteks PWM hub I've got, but couldn't get it to work on the only PWM header I could reach. So I stuck a fan controller to the back of the rad. It's got to be the worlds first complete all in one cooler. The pump is also sruck to it.


even better if it leaks no worries is not even inside the case







my cat would have to be banned if I had external rad...she is fascinated with liquid...always knocking over cups and laying in the sink...very odd for a cat...Also I'm very lucky on the fiance front she doesn't like to shop and she doesn't like for me to buy her expensive stuff and gets mad when I try/do... She was upset when I bought her ab xbox 360 slim when they came out then flipped when I spent 150 on the hard drive lol


----------



## Sem

Hi Guys a little advice here i want to get a Enthoo Luxe

currently using a 750D watercooled and after reading up on the Luxe i am concerned about space for my tube res

my 750d pictured below is using a EK D5 pump top and a Bitspower 150 Tank

in the pic i have a Maximus V Forumla but i have now exchanged that for a Rampage V Extreme but my GPUs are the same Asus 780 DC2 with EK full cover blocks

Is the Res and pump going to fit using the included mount? is my only choice a bay res/pump combo?


----------



## welshy46

your aqua cat would make short work of this then, I think I'm going to keep it but run the tubing out of the back of the case. It's doing a great job of hiding the rats nest of cables from my pc. I only did it this way so I didn't have to tie it into my loop as I didn't know if the block would work on my new card.


----------



## PureBlackFire

@sem: It should just fit if you use the bracket. Can I ask why change to the Luxe? My friend owns a 750D and wants a Luxe too so msybe it's the looks, but both cases are the same size almost exactly. No advantage for a water cooled build.


----------



## waveaddict

Any info on the Enthoo mini XL?Release date,etc...


----------



## Sem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PureBlackFire*
> 
> @sem: It should just fit if you use the bracket. Can I ask why change to the Luxe? My friend owns a 750D and wants a Luxe too so msybe it's the looks, but both cases are the same size almost exactly. No advantage for a water cooled build.


hmm dunno really I've never been 100% happy or satisfied with the 750D the only reason i got it was i needed to water cool my 780s and this was the best case available for my needs at the time

it always felt like a stop gap till a case i really liked the look of came along but at the end of the day its still an OK case i guess nothing massively wrong with it

if I buy the Luxe and dont like how it looks in person i might return it and I will have no problem keeping the 750D for a bit longer

if i do have any issues with getting the res and pump to fix i might get this as a replacement

http://www.overclockers.co.uk/showproduct.php?prodid=WC-152-MO&groupid=962&catid=2133&subcat=2134

its abit pricey tho i hopped to just swap the case over without any extreme expense


----------



## welshy46

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sem*
> 
> hmm dunno really I've never been 100% happy or satisfied with the 750D the only reason i got it was i needed to water cool my 780s and this was the best case available for my needs at the time
> 
> it always felt like a stop gap till a case i really liked the look of came along but at the end of the day its still an OK case i guess nothing massively wrong with it
> 
> if I buy the Luxe and dont like how it looks in person i might return it and I will have no problem keeping the 750D for a bit longer
> 
> if i do have any issues with getting the res and pump to fix i might get this as a replacement
> 
> http://www.overclockers.co.uk/showproduct.php?prodid=WC-152-MO&groupid=962&catid=2133&subcat=2134
> 
> its abit pricey tho i hopped to just swap the case over without any extreme expense


Your res shoud fit nicely, it's your 360 rad that you might have problems with. a little oversight on the Luxe is the roof mounts are not offset in the case and the mounts for the motherboard are set quite high. You might find it a bit of a squeeze where the 8 pin ATX is on the Asus MVE. as long as the 8 pin is no further than 73mm from the left edge of your motherboard the rad and fans will go straight in.


----------



## Sem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *welshy46*
> 
> Your res shoud fit nicely, it's your 360 rad that you might have problems with. a little oversight on the Luxe is the roof mounts are not offset in the case and the mounts for the motherboard are set quite high. You might find it a bit of a squeeze where the 8 pin ATX is on the Asus MVE. as long as the 8 pin is no further than 73mm from the left edge of your motherboard the rad and fans will go straight in.


im using a XT45 that should be ok ive seen Luxe builds with the UT60 and they fit with the fans in the roof

might change my 360 for a UT45 420mm tho still debating


----------



## PureBlackFire

The rad will be fine. The height is about identical between both cases. The Luxe just has it split up. When i mount my 60mm thick rad inside it doesn't even come down as far as the motherboard.


----------



## whocarez

Does the h100i fit in the pro? And where exactly is the best place to put it? I don't want it sticking out or anything lol or is there another cooler you guys recommend for the i5 4690k in that case


----------



## Akhenaton

Hi guys, two questions about the Luxe:

1) What is the maximum achievable combo on top? 420mm*60mm + 3 fans?
2) What is, in your opinion, the best composition? A 420mm*60mm + 3 fans or a 420mm*30mm + 6 fans?

Thanks!


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *whocarez*
> 
> Does the h100i fit in the pro? And where exactly is the best place to put it? I don't want it sticking out or anything lol or is there another cooler you guys recommend for the i5 4690k in that case


Yes, the H100i will easily fit inside the Pro, however I wouldn't recommend the H100i. It has a really bad mounting problem on 1150 socket motherboards and is not guaranteed to work for you out of the box without modifications. It also has a very noisy pump, and toss in buggy software makes it an AIO to avoid, especially when there are less problematic options available.

I recommend the Cooler Master Seidon 240M - $70, Corsair H105 - $85, Cooler Master Nepton 280L - $99, Cooler Master Nepton 240M - $115, NZXT X61.

All of those I mentioned will fit.

Out of those I mentioned, I would pick the Nepton 240M. It is brand spankin new, so it boasts the newest AIO technology. It is also the most quiet AIO out of all of them by far, and performs incredibly well at all fan speeds.

The best place to put a 240mm AIO in the Pro would be the top of the case.


----------



## whocarez

So 240 over the 280? I'm definitely going to get one of these two thanks a lot!


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *whocarez*
> 
> So 240 over the 280? I'm definitely going to get one of these two thanks a lot!


I recently tested the 240M and X61 head to head in a review. The performance difference is minimal, but the noise difference is not. Plus the X61 uses NZXT's CAM software, which is pretty buggy on some boards.

Personally, I would spend another $20 and go for a Swiftech H220-X. It blows away any CLC on the market in terms of overall performance and noise/performance, and it looks like real water cooling....mostly because it is.


----------



## kjrayo18

So far so good, cant wait for all the parts to get here!


----------



## mcnumpty23

upgraded my cooling today and learned a few things with the primo

you can just fit a 75mm reservoir with the msi gtx970--very tight but it went in

you can fit a swiftech h320 rad in the top with the fillport upwards if you are willing to snip a couple of little bits out

and the xspc photon screw holes dont line up with the holes on the primo res bracket which is a total pain

and you need to take the res bracket out to fit the photon as it screws on from behind

and having more water in my loop and an extra 240 rad seems to give much lower temperatures --though have to

check that tomorrow

maybe it will just take longer to get to the same temperature


----------



## benbenkr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *whocarez*
> 
> Does the h100i fit in the pro? And where exactly is the best place to put it? I don't want it sticking out or anything lol or is there another cooler you guys recommend for the i5 4690k in that case


If you're going to bother with CLCs, then please save yourself some money and get a high end air cooler that will outperform or match the best CLCs on the market, at a much lower noise level. The Pro is big enough to fit pretty much any high end dual tower air cooler anyways.

Don't like air? Still, stop bothering with CLCs. Get a Swiftech H220x or H240x. End of story.


----------



## welshy46

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *benbenkr*
> 
> If you're going to bother with CLCs, then please save yourself some money and get a high end air cooler that will outperform or match the best CLCs on the market, at a much lower noise level. The Pro is big enough to fit pretty much any high end dual tower air cooler anyways.
> 
> Don't like air? Still, stop bothering with CLCs. Get a Swiftech H220x or H240x. End of story.


+1 on wasting your time, and money on CLC's. It just is not water cooling. It's more like sticking a DTM spoiler amd big bore exhaust tip on a Ford fiesta and calling it a sports car.


----------



## Darkness Sakura

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *welshy46*
> 
> +1 on wasting your time, and money on CLC's. It just is not water cooling. It's more like sticking a DTM spoiler amd big bore exhaust tip on a Ford fiesta and calling it a sports car.


And yet, although not a car forum, people still do that stuff to their Fiesta thinking it "adds power." Sorry, you mentioned cars and I had to say something...


----------



## emsj86

The enthoo mini looks so nice and the options out amazing. Do t let the name fool you it's basically the size of the pro but I believe and correct me if I'm wrong either ge bright or the width is slightly smaller. Either way I want it. Price wi be more than the pro in sure and I have a feeling these phanteks cases now becoming mainstream will only go up in price


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *welshy46*
> 
> +1 on wasting your time, and money on CLC's. It just is not water cooling. It's more like sticking a DTM spoiler amd big bore exhaust tip on a Ford fiesta and calling it a sports car.


LOL - almost exactly how I have always described it. Though I typically say it is like getting a Big Wheel with the box that makes motor noises and telling people you have a Ducati Superleggera.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> The enthoo mini looks so nice and the options out amazing. Do t let the name fool you it's basically the size of the pro but I believe and correct me if I'm wrong either ge bright or the width is slightly smaller. Either way I want it. Price wi be more than the pro in sure and I have a feeling these phanteks cases now becoming mainstream will only go up in price


Well, if the market is such that people will pay $189 for a Corsair 780T, that would put market value on the Luxe at what? $250? $275? And the Pro at ~$150?

People's willingness to throw tons of money at steaming piles of compost completely disrupts the market.


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Well, if the market is such that people will pay $189 for a Corsair 780T, that would put market value on the Luxe at what? $250? $275? And the Pro at ~$150?
> 
> People's willingness to throw tons of money at steaming piles of compost completely disrupts the market.


I would slightly disagree. I do think in some stores the 780T is priced a bit more than is logical to spend on one, but it holds a 280 and 360 rad in the front with no modding or removing optical bays. it holds a 60mm thick 360 rad in push/pull on top. it's bigger than the luxe. in terms of raw size it's almost the same as the primo actually, but that does just show how much space is wasted in it. I wouldn't pay more than $180 for either case and $120 max for the pro.


----------



## atomicus

Why all this hate at CLCs? Plenty of them can perform equally as well as air coolers, some slightly better in fact, at a very affordable cost (the fraction of a quality water cooling set-up), and they can also make a massive difference to the visuals of a build. And that's something water cooling aficionados can surely appreciate!


----------



## welshy46

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> LOL - almost exactly how I have always described it. Though I typically say it is like getting a Big Wheel with the box that makes motor noises and telling people you have a Ducati Superleggera.


top analogy. I had one on my Raleigh Chopper as a kid. I thought I was Evil Kneivel.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PureBlackFire*
> 
> I would slightly disagree. I do think in some stores the 780T is priced a bit more than is logical to spend on one, but it holds a 280 and 360 rad in the front with no modding or removing optical bays. it holds a 60mm thick 360 rad in push/pull on top. it's bigger than the luxe. in terms of raw size it's almost the same as the primo actually, but that does just show how much space is wasted in it. I wouldn't pay more than $180 for either case and $120 max for the pro.


I was torn between the Primo and 780T. I finally settled on the Primo because of it's build quality, the 780T seemed to plasticy and I was bound to break it. I had the Primo in my basket ready to buy when I saw the Luxe, and immediately thought . MINE. Although I've promised myself a Primo 2 if/when they release one.

I think some shops do over price the 780T because it's a Corsair, so they think they can. and it looks like the much more expensive Coolermaster Cosmos II, with a side window. on average the Primo sells for around 313 USD and the 780T for 234 USD. With the Luxe and mini at 180 and 140 USD respectively. Prices are from a single shop, some shops are trying to sell the 780T for 300 USD. I did see the Primo for 266 USD delivered at one ebay shop, but that was after I had bought the Luxe.

It all comes down to market forces, the more desirable, the more people are willing to pay. Analogy time again, the volkswagon Golf is a much better car than the 1 series BMW, but the BMW has a BMW badge on it. So costs more and is more desirable.

Everything is worth what its purchaser will pay for it.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

It's not so much hate for clcs as it is love for the the better and cheaper alternatives.... The H240-X and H220-X are changing the clc market much like phanteks is changing the way case manufacturers look at cases... That is the hope anyhow


----------



## emsj86

Before I went custom and don't laugh I had
A glacer 240 which I expanded to my gpu with an extra 240 rad. It actually ran great. Very quiet and temps very close to my custom loop I have now. I went custom bc of the looks and I just enjoy building. It's addicting but the swiftech and glacer both our very good for the money. I got the aver at microcenter at the time for 80 dollars and with another 60 in tubing and a 240 rad I had a full loop that performed well


----------



## welshy46

I had a Corsair H75 and then a Coirsair H110 before diving in the deep end. They may have come along way since then, but the price/performace ratio was no where near as good as an Air cooler. Analogy time again, CLC's are water wings. Custom loops are free divers. It's not a hate for CLC's, they serve a purpose. Just don't think you are going to get anywhere near the performance of a custom loop. Even the basic kits you can buy to take out any of the worry of doe's this fit with that are a world away from a CLC. At least swiftech has made some of theirs upgradeable.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *atomicus*
> 
> Why all this hate at CLCs? Plenty of them can perform equally as well as air coolers, some slightly better in fact, at a very affordable cost (the fraction of a quality water cooling set-up), and they can also make a massive difference to the visuals of a build. And that's something water cooling aficionados can surely appreciate!


Yes, many of the CLCs on the market will perform on par with top air coolers.....at 20+ dB louder....and a markedly higher price.

As far as looks, see the above mentioned Big Wheel/Ford Fiesta comments. Personally, that is exactly what I see when I look at a CLC in a case. The whole "cool factor" went out the window pretty quickly for me, long before they became commonplace.

The release of the Swiftech H220/H220-X/H240-X (and CM 240L, of course) makes the visual aspect of CLCs worse. Now when I look at a CLC, I see a Ford Fiesta that someone paid almost as much for as they would have for an actual sports car (the Swiftech). Now there is an AiO (the Swiftech) that is NOT a CLC and doesn't have to have "one-size-fits-none" tubing. So I get the whole "what were they thinking buying that and not the Swiftech?" along with the Big Wheel/Ford Fiesta feeling.


----------



## doyll

@ whocarez
I suggest getting a good air cooler and saving up for a Swiftech H220-X or H240-X .. or a custom loop.

Top air coolers are actually better than all but a couple AIO coolers .. and none of the CLC coolers come close when their noise level is at or near the same as top air. The couple of AIO that are as good are better than air are the Swiftech AIO coolers.









Edit:
Too late.








But at least we all think alike.









"CLC" should be "WLWB" .. or "WBW"

water loop wanna-be
wanna-be-water


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Yes, many of the CLCs on the market will perform on par with top air coolers.....at 20+ dB louder....and a markedly higher price.
> 
> As far as looks, see the above mentioned Big Wheel/Ford Fiesta comments. Personally, that is exactly what I see when I look at a CLC in a case. The whole "cool factor" went out the window pretty quickly for me, long before they became commonplace.
> 
> The release of the Swiftech H220/H220-X/H240-X (and CM 240L, of course) makes the visual aspect worse. Now I see a Ford Fiesta that someone paid almost as much for as they would have for an actual sports car, and now there is an AiO (that is NOT a CLC) that doesn't have to have "one-size-fits-none" tubing. So I get the whole "what were they thinking buying that?" along with the Big Wheel/Ford Fiesta feeling.


130 dollars can be hit with an air cooler and replacement fans so...how is that comparison valid? 3/8 X 5/8 tubing is a very small difference in temps from 1/2 X 3/4 in a lower restriction loop...so once again no issue there...if that is an issue for you they make an adapter that's 15 dollars for the outlet to any g1/4 fitting...I have about $300 in my loop and it's not a necessity but a preference...this includes 520mm of rad space all fittings and extra res with leds...if you bought a GPU block used you could ideally have a H220x or H240-X cooling cpu and gpu for around $225 so it's not.that expensive when you consider most rigs especially on this site are $1000+


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> 130 dollars can be hit with an air cooler and replacement fans so...how is that comparison valid? 3/8 X 5/8 tubing is a very small difference in temps from 1/2 X 3/4 in a lower restriction loop...so once again no issue there...if that is an issue for you they make an adapter that's 15 dollars for the outlet to any g1/4 fitting...I have about $300 in my loop and it's not a necessity but a preference...this includes 520mm of rad space all fittings and extra res with leds...if you bought a GPU block used you could ideally have a H220x or H240-X cooling cpu and gpu for around $225 so it's not.that expensive when you consider most rigs especially on this site are $1000+


I think you misunderstood what I was saying.....I edited to try to clarify. Also, you need to remember that the Swiftechs are _*not*_ CLCs.

I meant that the quality and advantages of the Swiftechs makes CLCs look even worse by comparison. The H220-X and H240-X are the real deal. So seeing a $120 CLC makes me think "how in the world did they not get the Swiftech?????". And your point about the fact that you can simply add a GPU block and have a very effective small loop drives it home even more - and trying to compare two CLCs with one fitted to the GPU to an H240-X with a full cover block is just crazy....yet people try to do it.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> I think you misunderstood what I was saying.....I edited to try to clarify. Also, you need to remember that the Swiftechs are _*not*_ CLCs.
> 
> I meant that the quality and advantages of the Swiftechs makes CLCs look even worse by comparison. The H220-X and H240-X are the real deal. So seeing a $120 CLC makes me think "how in the world did they not get the Swiftech?????". And your point about the fact that you can simply add a GPU block and have a very effective small loop drives it home even more - and trying to compare two CLCs with one fitted to the GPU to an H240-X with a full cover block is just crazy....yet people try to do it.


yeah I definitely did misunderstand lol...I'm probably what you would consider a fan boy of the swiftech h2xx-x series but it's for good reason the price performance ratio is unmatched...for me I priced making a custom loop for my setup and came to around 600 total...so same setup half the price count me in...plus swiftech has amazing support guys here on forums so another plus...There are always good deals going on in the marketplace here on rads and the like...


----------



## shremi

Well after a long time my build is finally done






what do you guys think ??


----------



## doyll

For those who do not want the expense and / or hassle of building a custom loop, the Swiftech H220-X and H240-X are the way forward.

Really looking forward to seeing H140-X reviews. Only difference is radiator body is 150mm x 140mm x 115mm compared to H220-X at 247mm x 126mm 150mm x 140mm x 115mm and H240-X at 290mm x 140mm x 115mm, but same pump, waterblock, etc.
Obviously no big deal to add another radiator if needed.


----------



## Pierre3400

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shremi*
> 
> Well after a long time my build is finally done
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> what do you guys think ??


Very nice looking. I am happy you fixed the GPU connection.


----------



## PinkoTheCommi

I love my CLC. I bought a Cooler Master Seidon 240M for $56 after $25 MIR and 10% discount with Visa Checkout through Newegg.com. This AIO's pump is extremely quiet, I have been around X61s, X31s, H100i's, and H90s and the Seidon 240M is by far the most quiet of the bunch. It's fans are loud at over 1600rpm, but it performs so well in the 1200-1600rpm range, that I never have to push it higher.


----------



## Darkness Sakura

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shremi*
> 
> Well after a long time my build is finally done
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> what do you guys think ??


Well built, I like it. Hopefully mine will be nice like that when it's done...


----------



## Spork13

Looks good mate, glad you got it working.
I can't help wondering if it would work better with the bottom rad getting cool air from under the case rather than warm air from inside the case.


----------



## welshy46

@shremi Very nicely done.


----------



## johnnyw

I runned into some problems planning my watercooling loop for Enthoo Pro. My GFX card is so long & wide that there is no way to fit any tube res to either of the intended locations. Any suggestions? Maybe some 5.25" bay res/pump, or something like d5 vario x-res 100 pump/res kombo fitted to the hdd bay area somehow.

Going to have EK 360 PE at roof & 240 PE at front, both with single set of fans on push.


----------



## dsmwookie

Any suggestions on a good pump, reservoir, and/or fill port set up to make bleeding easier? I currently use an Apogee Drive II, but I m about to can it. It is such a pita bleeding because the reservoir is never truly higher than the pump. I thought about switching to an Alphacool top radiator and just using one of the top ports to assist in filling the loop, but I'm guessing it would still be a pain.

I thought I might be able to fit some kind of res/pump combination in the back chamber.


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *johnnyw*
> 
> I runned into some problems planning my watercooling loop for Enthoo Pro. My GFX card is so long & wide that there is no way to fit any tube res to either of the intended locations. Any suggestions? Maybe some 5.25" bay res/pump, or something like d5 vario x-res 100 pump/res kombo fitted to the hdd bay area somehow.
> 
> Going to have EK 360 PE at roof & 240 PE at front, both with single set of fans on push.


Well if the 240 is up front and not on the bottom you will be removing the hdd cages and on the bottom of those cages is a pump bracket. Mount the pump on it and the res right on top of it. If you put the rad on bottom you can remove hdd cages and get the uni bracket that will allow you to mount era and pump to the rad as well


----------



## emsj86

A cost effect yet good option is what I use bitspower multi tank 150 (30-40usd) and swiftech mcp50x pump than use a 1/4 to 1/4 rotary extension (a small one) to mount them together. And use the clamps from the res to mount it


----------



## dsmwookie

Cost isn't really a concern. Ease of use and cleanliness are my highest expectations. Btw, this is a Primo case. I currently have a 150 or 250ml res with the APD II.

I was considering a bay res. I recall hearing bay reservoirs had issues bleeding as well, which is a turn off. Usually they are unsightly, but with the Primo having that front cover panel it seemed like a good use of the 5.25 bays.


----------



## johnnyw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Well if the 240 is up front and not on the bottom you will be removing the hdd cages and on the bottom of those cages is a pump bracket. Mount the pump on it and the res right on top of it. If you put the rad on bottom you can remove hdd cages and get the uni bracket that will allow you to mount era and pump to the rad as well


With pump i allready ordered (EK D5 vario X-TOP) dont think it will work that would mount both pump & res to the hdd area, well the pump itself could be mounted fine, but im not sure how i could put res on top of it there? There is simply nothing to secure the res..

After been looking to it, i think need to cancel the order & get 5.25" D5 pump/res kombo. DDC pump/res kombo would be easiest and most cost effective option, but im not really huge fan of those pumps.


----------



## tsm106

Here's my Enthoo Primo. It's sporting dual psu and dual gtx480 rads. It took about three days to transplant my loop from my old 700D and re-route and plumb everything in. I have to say, this case was very easy to work with especially given how large my loop is. I had to do very little modding. Basically the only real alteration is the main drive wall that I had to cut to clear the lower 480 rad. I did a straight cut with dremel, sanded the edge and went over with black sharpie lol. Yea, it took like 5 minutes hehe. I disliked the pwm splitter though, tossed that out early on. I need to find me a super narrow led strip to change the blue led colors though.


----------



## Pierre3400

Look cool, but why Dual PSU?


----------



## shanker

I was going to get a 420mm rad for my Luxe for push pull and I was thinking of going with the new Phanteks radiator fans. What is a 420mm x 30mm pairing for those?

I'm just cooling a 4670K and 290 at stock.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pierre3400*
> 
> Look cool, but why Dual PSU?


Well, he's got triple 290Xs in there. A 1600 watt PSU might be able to handle that rig, but it would probably be pushing it. People have reported hitting a draw of as much as 1200watts on dual 290Xs OC'd and an OC'd CPU (like here for example)


----------



## kush621

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jake93s*
> 
> there is some really nice builds in this thread, hope to add mine to the collection xD
> looking forward to working on the pc again, might go for hard tubing and water cool the gpu.
> really want one of these graphics cards, would suit my build so well or not, i just really won't one
> http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=193_1693&products_id=29714


How is that Avexir RAM treating you? I've bought 2 sets of them and has nothing but problems with it.


----------



## Pierre3400

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Well, he's got triple 290Xs in there. A 1600 watt PSU might be able to handle that rig, but it would probably be pushing it. People have reported hitting a draw of as much as 1200watts on dual 290Xs OC'd and an OC'd CPU (like here for example)


Ahh I see. An EVGA 1600w paltinum would handle that just fine, and they are less than 1300+1000 put together.


----------



## Aluc13

So, I've been considering this case and I just wanted to know for air cooling and air cooling only, would this case be better than my raven 02?


----------



## bakingbread86

Hello fellow Phanteks friends!

Just got my Enthoo Pro and will be starting my build soon. I have some questions for you guys...

I'm going air cooling. Going to put 3 140mm fans on the top of the case, and my first question is: The 200mm fan that's included in the front of the case; stick with it or ditch it and go with 2x 140mm fans? Which will give me the best cooling potential? Will it really be that much of a difference?

And my next question is about the SSD bracket. There's two locations to mount the SSD bracket. Would it be possible to buy another SSD bracket and mount two SSD's back there? And would it be safe to have my main SSD drive(the one that will have my OS on it) back there? I know SSDs don't produce much in the way of heat, I just want to be cautious.

And finally, will I be able to mount 3 Thermalright TY-147 fans at the top of the case? http://www.thermalright.com/html/products/fan/ty-147.html?panel=0
I'm a little worried they won't fit. Is anybody using that setup? If they won't fit, would you kindly recommend me some good 140mm fans that will fit at the top? Like I said, looking for the best air cooling I can get. Budget for the fans would be $20 a piece tops.

Thanks in advance for answering. Can't wait to get started on my build!


----------



## Aluc13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bakingbread86*
> 
> Hello fellow Phanteks friends!
> 
> Just got my Enthoo Pro and will be starting my build soon. I have some questions for you guys...
> 
> I'm going air cooling. Going to put 3 140mm fans on the top of the case, and my first question is: The 200mm fan that's included in the front of the case; stick with it or ditch it and go with 2x 140mm fans? Which will give me the best cooling potential? Will it really be that much of a difference?
> 
> And my next question is about the SSD bracket. There's two locations to mount the SSD bracket. Would it be possible to buy another SSD bracket and mount two SSD's back there? And would it be safe to have my main SSD drive(the one that will have my OS on it) back there? I know SSDs don't produce much in the way of heat, I just want to be cautious.
> 
> And finally, will I be able to mount 3 Thermalright TY-147 fans at the top of the case? http://www.thermalright.com/html/products/fan/ty-147.html?panel=0
> I'm a little worried they won't fit. Is anybody using that setup? If they won't fit, would you kindly recommend me some good 140mm fans that will fit at the top? Like I said, looking for the best air cooling I can get. Budget for the fans would be $20 a piece tops.
> 
> Thanks in advance for answering. Can't wait to get started on my build!


Congrats on your new build. I am a air cooling type of guy as well. I saw an earlier post where someone mounted their psu in the back. No idea how that is possible, mods maybe. But it got me thinking of how moddable this case is. I may just buy it but I'm unsure of the air cooling potential of it.


----------



## benbenkr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bakingbread86*
> 
> Hello fellow Phanteks friends!
> 
> Just got my Enthoo Pro and will be starting my build soon. I have some questions for you guys...
> 
> I'm going air cooling. Going to put 3 140mm fans on the top of the case, and my first question is: The 200mm fan that's included in the front of the case; stick with it or ditch it and go with 2x 140mm fans? Which will give me the best cooling potential? Will it really be that much of a difference?
> 
> And my next question is about the SSD bracket. There's two locations to mount the SSD bracket. Would it be possible to buy another SSD bracket and mount two SSD's back there? And would it be safe to have my main SSD drive(the one that will have my OS on it) back there? I know SSDs don't produce much in the way of heat, I just want to be cautious.
> 
> And finally, will I be able to mount 3 Thermalright TY-147 fans at the top of the case? http://www.thermalright.com/html/products/fan/ty-147.html?panel=0
> I'm a little worried they won't fit. Is anybody using that setup? If they won't fit, would you kindly recommend me some good 140mm fans that will fit at the top? Like I said, looking for the best air cooling I can get. Budget for the fans would be $20 a piece tops.
> 
> Thanks in advance for answering. Can't wait to get started on my build!


The 200mm fan is good, one of the better 200mm fans that comes with a case at least. Good amount of airflow, not terribly loud or annoying at a certain RPM. My suggestion is to just stick with it.

Yes you can buy another SSD bracket from Phanteks and fit it to the back. And yes, there are no problems having your SSD back there (why would it lol). You can even tape 2 SSDs to one bracket if you want a ghetto setup of multiple SSDs.

The TY147 should fit without issues, but there might be a mounting issue though... I'm not exactly sure. Other good 140mm fans are from Phanteks themselves, the XP series specifically if you need PWM.


----------



## kjrayo18

so this is my case so far one top in the front 200 in and a 120 on the ssd bracket in. Should I add an out on top next to the rear out? Or not? Maybe one out and 2 in on the top? Or to much air?


----------



## Darkness Sakura

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kjrayo18*
> 
> Or to much air?


You can never have too much air.


----------



## tsm106

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pierre3400*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Well, he's got triple 290Xs in there. A 1600 watt PSU might be able to handle that rig, but it would probably be pushing it. People have reported hitting a draw of as much as 1200watts on dual 290Xs OC'd and an OC'd CPU (like here for example)
> 
> 
> 
> Ahh I see. An EVGA 1600w paltinum would handle that just fine, and they are less than 1300+1000 put together.
Click to expand...

A 1600 would not handle the load I am pushing and frankly 1.3kw is on the edge of my comfort zone for a single rail anyways. And it is not cheaper lol. When on sale you can get a 1k/1.3k combo for 110+130 like recently with the BF deals. In retrospect, I should have went for the dual 1.3kw but oh well, I run tri more often than I do quads these days.


----------



## firefoxx04

Anyone have noise issues with the 200mm fan mounted in the roof (not vertically on the front)

Mine seems to be out of balance and it makes a odd noise. Audible at 500rpm and more so at 12v 1000rpm or so.

I prefer the 2 140mm fans in the front so I stuck the 200mm in the roof. I think the bearing is showing its limitations.


----------



## semitope

Still waiting on my case to get here. Months later. That glass is probably scratched to hell by now.

Plan to put an intake at the top as well.should be good air for the CPU and GPU


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *semitope*
> 
> Still waiting on my case to get here. Months later. That glass is probably scratched to hell by now.
> 
> Plan to put an intake at the top as well.should be good air for the CPU and GPU


I can't imagine having to wait that long for a case... One of the very few perks to living in the us...


----------



## Darkness Sakura

That's odd, months? I'm in the UK, US military, and I had to wait roughly 30-35 days for my Primo but that was shipped via UPS/USPS... wouldn't see why it'd take too long for FL/Jamaica.


----------



## johnnyw

Im really confused now with the pwm hub on pro. After bit of fiddling it seems to work somehow but still not proberly, no matter what i set on about pwm mode on bios it doesnt seem to drop the fans any lower than 1100rpm. But example when i put prime 95 running fans then does ramp up to 1300rpm accoring to hw monitor, and it does sound like that aswell as it gets noticeably louder.


----------



## Pierre3400

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tsm106*
> 
> A 1600 would not handle the load I am pushing and frankly 1.3kw is on the edge of my comfort zone for a single rail anyways. And it is not cheaper lol. When on sale you can get a 1k/1.3k combo for 110+130 like recently with the BF deals. In retrospect, I should have went for the dual 1.3kw but oh well, I run tri more often than I do quads these days.


That just doesnt make sense.

The MSI 290 lightning pull 350w TDW as a peak, at stock clocks. So lets say your overclocking, and somehow managing to peak all 3 at once. 3x 400watts = 1200watts. With a 1600watt platinum PSU, that still leaves 400watts for the rest of the system, and unless you get a peltior in there, theres just no way your pulling 400watts from the rest of the system, i would really love to see your maths on this since you feel like 2300watts isnt enough?

Prosesor: Intel Core i7-4930K ( 6 Core / 12 Thread), Ivy Bridge-E
Motherboard: ASUS Rampage IV Black Edition
RAM: Corsair Vengeance DDR3-2133C9 4x4GB Kit
VGA: 4x MSI Radeon R9 290X 4GB (reference design), Uber Mode
SSD: Kingston HyperX 3K
CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-C14

[CPU & RAM]

CPU Multiplier: 47x (Total Clock: 4700Mhz)
DRAM Speed: 1200Mhz, DDR3-2400Mhz
DRAM Timing(CL-tRCD-tRP-tRAS-CMD Rate) : 9-12-12-21 1T
CPU VCore: 1.45 V
CPU VccSA: 1.25V
CPU VccIO: 1.25V
DRAM Voltage: 1.85V
[GPU]

(via MSI Afterburner)

GPU Voltage: +100mV (1.35V)
Power Limit: Maxxed (50%)
Fan Speed: Full speed, 100%
Core Clock: 1150 - 1175 Mhz
Video Memory Clock: 1500Mhz

and heres a picture of the max watts pulled at the wall. (Lepa P1700M)


Please note that this is 4, not 3 290X.


----------



## Darkness Sakura

I think the redesign will definitely use less piping, clean up the loop, and lower restriction due to less bends/piping, what do you guys think?

Edit: the white block over the GPUs will be ran in parallel.


----------



## Sem

n/a


----------



## seeky

I have just got the luxe for my first build and Im trying to test the outter lights, but im a little confused on how to get it working. From what I understand, the 12v input should be connected to the psu, which cable should I be using to form the bridge between the 12v input and the psu? btw, my psu is CX750M.


----------



## benbenkr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kjrayo18*
> 
> so this is my case so far one top in the front 200 in and a 120 on the ssd bracket in. Should I add an out on top next to the rear out? Or not? Maybe one out and 2 in on the top? Or to much air?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kjrayo18*
> 
> so this is my case so far one top in the front 200 in and a 120 on the ssd bracket in. Should I add an out on top next to the rear out? Or not? Maybe one out and 2 in on the top? Or to much air?


Don't see an issue with another fan up top.
Though first things first, do you actually need the 1st HDD cage (where your 120mm fan is on)? I don't see drives in there, so I'm just wondering.

If not, I think it'd be better to remove the 1st HDD cage and install both 140mm fans on the front, 120mm on the back and the 200mm on the top.


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seeky*
> 
> I have just got the luxe for my first build and Im trying to test the outter lights, but im a little confused on how to get it working. From what I understand, the 12v input should be connected to the psu, which cable should I be using to form the bridge between the 12v input and the psu? btw, my psu is CX750M.


a standard sata power cable.


----------



## seeky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PureBlackFire*
> 
> a standard sata power cable.


hmm, I tried that awhile ago by connecting the angled connection to the 12v input and the square looking end to the psu .. Then I tried holding down the led button, but the lights would not turn on. I wonder if im doing something wrong?


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seeky*
> 
> hmm, I tried that awhile ago by connecting the angled connection to the 12v input and the square looking end to the psu .. Then I tried holding down the led button, but the lights would not turn on. I wonder if im doing something wrong?


if it's not working it's either not connected to the psu right or the LED strip is dead.


----------



## seeky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PureBlackFire*
> 
> if it's not working it's either not connected to the psu right or the LED strip is dead.


Is it worth noting that I dont have my psu connected to my mobo yet, so the psu should not be getting the signal to start up? I'm thinking of this from watching videos on how to test a psu with a paper clip and fan. Should the led be working connected to the psu even if the psu is not connected to the mobo?


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seeky*
> 
> Is it worth noting that I dont have my psu connected to my mobo yet, so the psu should not be getting the signal to start up? I'm thinking of this from watching videos on how to test a psu with a paper clip and fan. Should the led be working connected to the psu even if the psu is not connected to the mobo?


the paper clip method should power the LED.


----------



## kjrayo18

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *benbenkr*
> 
> Don't see an issue with another fan up top.
> Though first things first, do you actually need the 1st HDD cage (where your 120mm fan is on)? I don't see drives in there, so I'm just wondering.
> 
> If not, I think it'd be better to remove the 1st HDD cage and install both 140mm fans on the front, 120mm on the back and the 200mm on the top.


Does the 200mm actually fit on the top? Crazy! And when to say the 120mm in the back you mean where it's at now? On the second cage? And I will remove the first cage I've got the ssd in the back


----------



## bigaza2151

Cant recall if asked before but does the enthoo pro support a 240mm rad on the roof? Ive ordered the corsair h100i but i can change the order if needed


----------



## seeky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PureBlackFire*
> 
> the paper clip method should power the LED.


Phew! The paper clip method worked. I should have realized that the psu wasn't getting a signal lol.


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bigaza2151*
> 
> Cant recall if asked before but does the enthoo pro support a 240mm rad on the roof? Ive ordered the corsair h100i but i can change the order if needed


it does with much room to spare.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seeky*
> 
> Phew! The paper clip method worked. I should have realized that the psu wasn't getting a signal lol.


----------



## benbenkr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kjrayo18*
> 
> Does the 200mm actually fit on the top? Crazy! And when to say the 120mm in the back you mean where it's at now? On the second cage? And I will remove the first cage I've got the ssd in the back


Yes the 200mm fan fits at the top.

The fan you have on the HDD cage basically, you can remove that and use it as the back exhaust then fit both 140mm fans in the front for a good amount of intake and a nice amount of exhaust back and up the top.


----------



## bigaza2151

Is a 360 rad really much better at cooling over a 240?

Also my expectations are hopeful for the h100i since my 4690k was reaching high 70s while overclocked so im running stock until my h100i arrives. This antec cooler just isnt cutting it


----------



## bakingbread86

So, I've decided I will go with 8 fans in my Enthoo Pro: 2x 14Omm in front, 3x 140mm in top, 1 140mm in back, and 2x 120mm in bottom. As well as going with 3 fans on my Phanteks PH-TC14PE CPU Cooler. Would you guys mind checking my (horrible) drawing below to make sure I've got the airflow good and proper? Also, I was thinking of getting some LED fans for it, but I can't find any with PWM. Do I really need PWM? I'd like to be able to control all the fans in the case...

http://i.imgur.com/dXvgxcx.png


----------



## firefoxx04

Your airflow looks good however that many fans may not help. You might see diminishing returns.

You will also want to consider having more intake fans than exhaust.

a third fan on the cpu cooler may not help much if at all.

Lastly, a good fan controller will control all the fans but the included phanteks controller could work too but it is confusing for a lot of people. Long story short, it makes 3pin work like Pwm fans with a Pwm signal from your motherboard.


----------



## bakingbread86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *firefoxx04*
> 
> Your airflow looks good however that many fans may not help. You might see diminishing returns.
> 
> You will also want to consider having more intake fans than exhaust.
> 
> a third fan on the cpu cooler may not help much if at all.
> 
> Lastly, a good fan controller will control all the fans but the included phanteks controller could work too but it is confusing for a lot of people. Long story short, it makes 3pin work like Pwm fans with a Pwm signal from your motherboard.


Thanks for the reply!

Perhaps I should eliminate one of the top fans? What would you recommend? I will think about the third CPU fan. Might be nice to save a few bucks!

Could you also recommend me a quality fan controller to control all the fans?

Again, thanks for the reply!

Also, THESE are 20% off on Newegg. What do you guys think of them?


----------



## welshy46

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bakingbread86*
> 
> Thanks for the reply!
> 
> Perhaps I should eliminate one of the top fans? What would you recommend? I will think about the third CPU fan. Might be nice to save a few bucks!
> 
> Could you also recommend me a quality fan controller to control all the fans?
> 
> Again, thanks for the reply!
> 
> Also, THESE are 20% off on Newegg. What do you guys think of them?


I have 9 of the Bitfenix Spectre 120mm fans(non Pro) in my Luxe and they are working well. I would assume they have the LED connector that you can use to change the brightness of the LED's as mine do. You can use a Y splitter from the fan and LED connector to the PWM hub so as the fans pick up speed, the LED's get brighter. Or just run them as regular fans. I would recommend the Phanteks PWN hub fan controller, depending on motherboard. I've had great results with it using an Asus z87 Sabertooth and Asus' Ai suite III.

If you can get the PWM hub to run the fans, then you don't need a fan controller. My personnal favourite fan controller is the sunbeamtech Rheosmart. you can hook your fans up to this, then run the fans off the CPU PWM header and let the fan controller control the fans from the PWM signal.


----------



## welshy46

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *johnnyw*
> 
> Im really confused now with the pwm hub on pro. After bit of fiddling it seems to work somehow but still not proberly, no matter what i set on about pwm mode on bios it doesnt seem to drop the fans any lower than 1100rpm. But example when i put prime 95 running fans then does ramp up to 1300rpm accoring to hw monitor, and it does sound like that aswell as it gets noticeably louder.


Have you tried to control fans using Gigabytes easy tune software. I had to use Asus Ai suite as the hub wasn't responding to any inputs made in the Bios.


----------



## MGazonda

Does anyone know the max size of a PSU I could use in a Luxe while still being able to put a 240mm rad in the bottom?

Will 180mm (fully modular) fit?


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MGazonda*
> 
> Does anyone know the max size of a PSU I could use in a Luxe while still being able to put a 240mm rad in the bottom?
> 
> Will 180mm (fully modular) fit?


that's about the max.


----------



## MGazonda

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PureBlackFire*
> 
> that's about the max.


Cool. 180 is my magic number - (afaik) the smallest 1500w power supply.


----------



## orick

Hi guys. Just bought a enthoo pro for my new build. Does anyone know what the sliding tab on top of the drive cages are for? They don't seem to do anything really.

Also, instruction diagram shows 4 thumb screws for the psu but there are only 3 in the box?

So far loving the case. Very well built and thoughtfully designed. The side panel with the window does have a bit more flex than I like. But overall great case. It also looks even better in person than the photos. In the promotional photos, the top 5 1/4" cover which covers the USB and audio jacks seem to be a different finish than the rest of the drive bay covers and stands out more. It was really bothering me to the point of considering going with a fractal design define r4/r5. Eventually I decided the features of this case makes it worth putting up with that. But in person it actually looks really great.


----------



## dikkiedirk

Just got my Enthoo Primo and I plan to install a Alphacool 360 UT rad in the top. What is better?

1. The rad in the top and fans beneath it in push configuration. Which screws would I need to mount the rad? Not the supplied long ones but perhaps M3x5mm.

or

2. Fans in the the top in pull configuaration and rad beneath them. I can use the supplied M3x30screws then? Will the fans in this case be "sandwiched" between top of case and rad?

Should I remove the installed 140 mm fan?

I don't plan on using push/pull. The rad is fat enough by itself.

I plan on adding a second rad for perhaps 2 GPUs later. Can I use the same loop or should I use a second?


----------



## aduman

Hi again guys! I can't seem to keep the LEDs on my Luxe at the same color. They always reset to red after every shutdown. I'm not unplugging or switching the PSU off, just shutting the pc down through Windows and that's it. I'm using the LED strip by Phanteks too if that makes any difference. Have you ever had an issue like this?


----------



## MGazonda

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aduman*
> 
> Hi again guys! I can't seem to keep the LEDs on my Luxe at the same color. They always reset to red after every shutdown. I'm not unplugging or switching the PSU off, just shutting the pc down through Windows and that's it. I'm using the LED strip by Phanteks too if that makes any difference. Have you ever had an issue like this?


This is normal behaviour (unfortunately). It doesn't save your light settings.


----------



## welshy46

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MGazonda*
> 
> This is normal behaviour (unfortunately). It doesn't save your light settings.


The lighting controller does remember the last colour you had them set to. It looks like both of you have defective lighting controllers. Get onto those lovely Phanteks customer support people's and they will sort you out.


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *welshy46*
> 
> The lighting controller does remember the last colour you had them set to. It looks like both of you have defective lighting controllers. Get onto those lovely Phanteks customer support people's and they will sort you out.


if that's the case over 90% of Luxe owners have a defective one. it only saves the first 3 colours AFAIK.


----------



## welshy46

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PureBlackFire*
> 
> if that's the case over 90% of Luxe owners have a defective one. it only saves the first 3 colours AFAIK.


Then orange must be one of them. Even afrer stripping my case to reposition radiators, including removing PSU. when I rebuilt it they came back on in orange. I shut it down through wibdows each night and switch it off at the wall. Every time I switch it back on, they come on orange.


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *welshy46*
> 
> Then orange must be one of them. Even afrer stripping my case to reposition radiators, including removing PSU. when I rebuilt it they came back on in orange. I shut it down through wibdows each night and switch it off at the wall. Every time I switch it back on, they come on orange.


yes, bright blue - orange save (4 colours, but I don't count red as it's the default) and the rest don't. it's like that for everyone so far.


----------



## welshy46

Thankfully I like orange. It makes a change to in with the in crowd.







in life I'm normally one of those who shot out of luck.

Luxe is in bits again while I install bigger rads. Just about to take an angle grinder to my Primochill Crt res to make room for a second loop.


----------



## Darkness Sakura

So I decided to start assembly of my case so that I can get measurements before getting anything else ... I also found out that I won't be able to rock my res mount. Sad day...


----------



## MGazonda

Thanks for posting this - first time I've seen what the case looks like with a large board like this one.


----------



## Darkness Sakura

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MGazonda*
> 
> Thanks for posting this - first time I've seen what the case looks like with a large board like this one.


I'm not sure if you can see them but the board is missing a few screws due to the stand-off mounting locations... basically I'll have to drill and tap a few holes to get the motherboard to be fully secured rather than 5 out of 8. But as advertised the case can hold up to a SSI EEB/EATX form factor, just don't think it liked the configuration of the board itself.


----------



## MGazonda

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darkness Sakura*
> 
> I'm not sure if you can see them but the board is missing a few screws due to the stand-off mounting locations... basically I'll have to drill and tap a few holes to get the motherboard to be fully secured rather than 5 out of 8. But as advertised the case can hold up to a SSI EEB/EATX form factor, just don't think it liked the configuration of the board itself.


Ahh... well, that's unfortunate, but I don't think that's a deterrent for me at this point. I'm more worried about how I'm going to get power to various spots with a 420 rad in push/pull on the top, and another rad at the rear. I figure I'll find a way somehow though.


----------



## emsj86

Reaces with white led lights.


----------



## koniu777

Hello everyone, I've got my enthoo luxe a couple months ago but I couldn't move my hardware into it because the side panel with window bothered me a lot. The plastic used on the window is very cheap, mine arrived all scratched up from shipping, the placement of the window was always a bit off in my opinion... So lately I've been doing a bit of brain storming on how to overcome this problem on a really awesome case. The solution I've come up with is a tinted acrylic panel that is secured to the case with magnets, I think it looks way better than the original stuff  Posting couple shots of the mod as it is now.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *koniu777*
> 
> Hello everyone, I've got my enthoo luxe a couple months ago but I couldn't move my hardware into it because the side panel with window bothered me a lot. The plastic used on the window is very cheap, mine arrived all scratched up from shipping, the placement of the window was always a bit off in my opinion... So lately I've been doing a bit of brain storming on how to overcome this problem on a really awesome case. The solution I've come up with is a tinted acrylic panel that is secured to the case with magnets, I think it looks way better than the original stuff  Posting couple shots of the mod as it is now.


that's pretty cool... I've always been worried about magnets since a transit magnet killed a PC of mine once although it's way more powerful than what you have


----------



## koniu777

Yeah these magnets hold the window pretty good but they're not anything stronger than what everyone has in mechanical hard drives.


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *koniu777*
> 
> Hello everyone, I've got my enthoo luxe a couple months ago but I couldn't move my hardware into it because the side panel with window bothered me a lot. The plastic used on the window is very cheap, mine arrived all scratched up from shipping, the placement of the window was always a bit off in my opinion... So lately I've been doing a bit of brain storming on how to overcome this problem on a really awesome case. The solution I've come up with is a tinted acrylic panel that is secured to the case with magnets, I think it looks way better than the original stuff  Posting couple shots of the mod as it is now.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


very nice. I'm thinking of modding both my panels soon. I do feel the big window is placed a little off. and I'm probably going to make a spot for ventilation on the rear side panel so I can mount a 240 or 280 rad facing that side.


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> that's pretty cool... I've always been worried about magnets since a transit magnet killed a PC of mine once although it's way more powerful than what you have


Amazing I've been on the fence of modding my panel to make my own window with u channel like bill Owen. But this actually seems better looking, easier and less money. And you can always throw you old panel back on. Could u post a picture of the actual arylic with the magnets on it. How did you attach the magnets with 3m?


----------



## koniu777

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> that's pretty cool... I've always been worried about magnets since a transit magnet killed a PC of mine once although it's way more powerful than what you have
> 
> 
> 
> Amazing I've been on the fence of modding my panel to make my own window with u channel like bill Owen. But this actually seems better looking, easier and less money. And you can always throw you old panel back on. Could u post a picture of the actual arylic with the magnets on it. How did you attach the magnets with 3m?
Click to expand...

Yup I have used 3m double sided tape to mount the magnets, very easy mod that doesn't require any actual case modification. BTW the acrylic sheet is 3/16" thick, I picked mine up locally at mcmaster carr this morning.


----------



## emsj86

I think in will do this mod. It will allow for me to put the res under the optical drives and still be able to show it off


----------



## theoblivinator

Anyone here have an X99 build in the Primo or Luxe? I'm going to be building an X99 build soon and some advice from someone who worked with it before would be swell. These questions relate to the Luxe currently. If it doesn't seem like my build will work out in a Luxe, I'll just stick to the Primo again lol.

Is it possible to have a 420mm radiator in Push/Pull in the top or do the optical drives and power buttons get in the way of where one of the fans would be placed (the bottom side of the rad closet to the front of the case)? If so, what thickness of radiator is needed? 30mm? I'm planning on using corsair dominator platinum DDR4 ram, and I know those sometimes interfere with push/pull configurations. Would it fit?

How much clearance do you have for the 240mm radiator in front? Like, how thick of a radiator have people fit down there, are you using push/pull configurations? Do you have to remove the HDD cages to fit anything pretty thick in there? I'm asking because the reservoir bracket mounts to the HDD cages correct? I would love to use that for my reservoir if possible so I'm seeing what options there are for the 240mm radiator.

And I know I should probably be asking this in the water cooling forum, but we all use phantek's cases because of their beast water cooling options, but would a 420 and a 240 radiator be ideal to cool a i7-5960x and two reference gtx 980's?

And just for kicks I'm planning on using the Asus X99 Deluxe motherboard with all this, if that helps answer some of my questions as well. Thanks for the help and advice everyone. If you need more information from me just let me know and I'll be happy to share.


----------



## Aluc13

I actually have similar questions to yours mine is also an x99 and my main concerns are with the build quality, packaging, As well as the fan controller which I have heard works or doesn't.


----------



## maskymus

Hi, all.

Another happy owner of Enthoo Primo. Although I was quite satisfied with the air cooling, my dream was to build water cooling by myself. The case itself is very friendly for a new builder like me, but needs some modifications, so I'll start my own case build thread soon with detailed description of work mods and both positive and negative finding during the modding.
For now just finished led strip installation in front and partly modded the front grill intake:


----------



## ArtX38

Phanteks Enthoo Primo two in one

http://www.overclock.net/t/1528919/phanteks-enthoo-two-in-one


----------



## welshy46

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *koniu777*
> 
> Yeah these magnets hold the window pretty good but they're not anything stronger than what everyone has in mechanical hard drives.


That looks sweet with the smoked plexi.







good idea with the use of magnets. I'll give it a try instead of the rubber seal and interference fit I have with mine, yours looks like a much more secure way of mounting a full plexi window.



Had another brain storm on the layout of mine. I've made the "temporary" external 720 rad a permanent fixture so I could run two loops and I've redone the tubing along with swapping the 280mm UT45 rad with a 360mm UT60.

How it was.


How it is now.




The new battle bridge


----------



## welshy46

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *theoblivinator*
> 
> Anyone here have an X99 build in the Primo or Luxe? I'm going to be building an X99 build soon and some advice from someone who worked with it before would be swell. These questions relate to the Luxe currently. If it doesn't seem like my build will work out in a Luxe, I'll just stick to the Primo again lol.
> 
> Is it possible to have a 420mm radiator in Push/Pull in the top or do the optical drives and power buttons get in the way of where one of the fans would be placed (the bottom side of the rad closet to the front of the case)? If so, what thickness of radiator is needed? 30mm? I'm planning on using corsair dominator platinum DDR4 ram, and I know those sometimes interfere with push/pull configurations. Would it fit?
> 
> How much clearance do you have for the 240mm radiator in front? Like, how thick of a radiator have people fit down there, are you using push/pull configurations? Do you have to remove the HDD cages to fit anything pretty thick in there? I'm asking because the reservoir bracket mounts to the HDD cages correct? I would love to use that for my reservoir if possible so I'm seeing what options there are for the 240mm radiator.
> 
> And I know I should probably be asking this in the water cooling forum, but we all use phantek's cases because of their beast water cooling options, but would a 420 and a 240 radiator be ideal to cool a i7-5960x and two reference gtx 980's?
> 
> And just for kicks I'm planning on using the Asus X99 Deluxe motherboard with all this, if that helps answer some of my questions as well. Thanks for the help and advice everyone. If you need more information from me just let me know and I'll be happy to share.


You can get a 420mmx 45mm rad plus a set of fans, plus a second set inside the roof space but you WILL NOT be able to fit the rad to the 140mm mounts. You will have to custom mount the rad as the mounts are not offset in the roof and will interfere with the plastic shroud on the VRM cooler above the CPU socket. You could go with a 480mm, you will need to move the front panel down to make it fit but it has been done.

The luxe is designed to take a 240mm rad in the front with the 3.5" bays removed. There's enough depth to fit an 80mm thick Nexxos monsta in there in push/pull. You can also put a 240mm in the floor but you will be restricted to a 45mm with one set of fans if you want to retain the PSU shroud. With that removed you could fit a monsta in push/pull.

I'm not sure how long a GPU you can use and use the supplied reservoir bracket. someone with an intact Luxe will be able to tell you. As for the is a 420mm and 240mm rad enough for cooling. You might want to ask over in the water cooling thread. I've always been on the red team so have no experience with Nvidia.


----------



## emsj86

drain added. Ek back plate added. 360 rad fans made pull I take and added carbon wrap to hide corsair sticker.


----------



## emsj86

see my blue blurry build log for a pictures and videos.


----------



## theoblivinator

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *welshy46*
> 
> You can get a 420mmx 45mm rad plus a set of fans, plus a second set inside the roof space but you WILL NOT be able to fit the rad to the 140mm mounts. You will have to custom mount the rad as the mounts are not offset in the roof and will interfere with the plastic shroud on the VRM cooler above the CPU socket. You could go with a 480mm, you will need to move the front panel down to make it fit but it has been done.
> 
> The luxe is designed to take a 240mm rad in the front with the 3.5" bays removed. There's enough depth to fit an 80mm thick Nexxos monsta in there in push/pull. You can also put a 240mm in the floor but you will be restricted to a 45mm with one set of fans if you want to retain the PSU shroud. With that removed you could fit a monsta in push/pull.
> 
> I'm not sure how long a GPU you can use and use the supplied reservoir bracket. someone with an intact Luxe will be able to tell you. As for the is a 420mm and 240mm rad enough for cooling. You might want to ask over in the water cooling thread. I've always been on the red team so have no experience with Nvidia.


Alright thanks for the help. Looks like I'd have to stick with the Primo for what I'm planning, which blows because my current rig is in a Primo and I don't like how big it is. I wish I was able to fit it all in the smaller Luxe.


----------



## nellyp67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> that's pretty cool... I've always been worried about magnets since a transit magnet killed a PC of mine once although it's way more powerful than what you have


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> that's pretty cool... I've always been worried about magnets since a transit magnet killed a PC of mine once although it's way more powerful than what you have


Great idea looks very good , can I ask wot is the size of the acrylic window


----------



## koniu777

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nellyp67*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> that's pretty cool... I've always been worried about magnets since a transit magnet killed a PC of mine once although it's way more powerful than what you have
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> that's pretty cool... I've always been worried about magnets since a transit magnet killed a PC of mine once although it's way more powerful than what you have
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Great idea looks very good , can I ask wot is the size of the acrylic window
Click to expand...

The size of the acrylic is 19.25" x 18.25" and 3/16" thick.


----------



## koniu777

BTW, the magnets I have used are these:

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Super-Magnets-3-8-in-Neodymium-Rare-Earth-Magnet-Discs-12-Pack-07090HD/202526371

double sided tape:

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Scotch-1-in-x-1-66-yds-Extreme-Mounting-Tape-414-DC/203405976

acrylic window from McMaster Carr:

http://www.mcmaster.com/#catalog/120/3588/=ux7xdr

part# 8505K84


----------



## emsj86

I love how easy that mod is. Never really noticed the inside of the case is perfectly I. Line. Def will be doing this window mod and if I don't like it I can ways switch back. Pretty cheap mod


----------



## koniu777

I was able to take some better pics today in daylight but still the mod looks a lot better in person.


----------



## theoblivinator

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *theoblivinator*
> 
> Alright thanks for the help. Looks like I'd have to stick with the Primo for what I'm planning, which blows because my current rig is in a Primo and I don't like how big it is. I wish I was able to fit it all in the smaller Luxe.


Actually before I get to hasty with my decisions... I could go with a 360mm x 45mm rad in the top in push/pull (or probably even just pull). About that 240mm x 45mm rad and the set of fans in the bottom. you have to remove at least the bottom HDD cage correct? Would that radiator then take up the space that the pump mount would go if you were going to use it? I ask because currently in my Primo I have a Swiftech MCP655 PWM Pump with G1/4 threads for fittings on the supplied pump mount. If I could just take the mount w/ the pump and swap it into the base of the Luxe that would be ideal. But I don't think I can do that if the 240mm rad was sitting there in the bottom. Any ideas?

Its very frustrating that Phanteks have some of the best cases out there on the market, but they fall short of being perfect cases in just a few minor areas. If a few things were tweaked, a few extra mm's here and there they would be perfect.


----------



## welshy46

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *theoblivinator*
> 
> Alright thanks for the help. Looks like I'd have to stick with the Primo for what I'm planning, which blows because my current rig is in a Primo and I don't like how big it is. I wish I was able to fit it all in the smaller Luxe.


It's another yes you can, but.







If you use the stock placement for a 240mm rad on the floor, it uses up the floor space. Depending on the length of your PSU. Mines 160mm which leaves 365mm of floor space. With a 240mm(278mm) that leaves, hang on where's my abacus gone
87mm. That's going to be tight.


----------



## bond32

I do not recommend a rad mounted in the floor of the pro (same as luxe here) IF you have a large power supply. It makes for an extremely tight fit with cables but one could use the top 3.5 drive cage if it was to fit right. The monsta in the front 240 mount fits perfectly however and could potentially put a d5 pump between the 240 monsta and psu (still would be a tight fit)


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> I do not recommend a rad mounted in the floor of the pro (same as luxe here) IF you have a large power supply. It makes for an extremely tight fit with cables but one could use the top 3.5 drive cage if it was to fit right. The monsta in the front 240 mount fits perfectly however and could potentially put a d5 pump between the 240 monsta and psu (still would be a tight fit)


come to think of it I never checked the dimensions of the power supply I just bought....With my 240 in the bottom it might not work :edit: it's gonna be dang close...3/8 of an inch longer....guess we will see


----------



## theoblivinator

Alright, thanks for the help again. Honestly it feels like I'll just have to reuse my Primo case. Which isn't bad, I was just hoping to use a smaller case. Perhaps some more research will yield better results.


----------



## welshy46

Look on the bright side, you could be stuck with a worse choice of case. I can't think of any luxe size cases out there that can fit a 420mm and a 240mm rad without losing most of there drive bays. even the Primo sized corsair 780T needs gutting to fit a rad in the front and it cant take a 420mm as standard in the roof. The corsair 900D while being an excellent case, is a bit boring looking. then there's the wallet emptying caselabs, worth every penny. but you need a lot of pennies.

let me know if you find anything, i'm a sucker for a new case. this is my fourth one in a year.


----------



## Darkness Sakura

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MGazonda*
> 
> Ahh... well, that's unfortunate, but I don't think that's a deterrent for me at this point. I'm more worried about how I'm going to get power to various spots with a 420 rad in push/pull on the top, and another rad at the rear. I figure I'll find a way somehow though.


I was looking at my case and depending on the board you have, or want to get, there are two holes on the side of the 5.25" drive bays that may be able to fit anything up to the 20+4 (or 24) pin connector. Considering the location of my 24 pin main I almost have no choice but to route it that way since I'll be running a 480x60mm on the top - considering a 80mm but haven't finished size measurements.


----------



## HyperC

Yes i did the x99 build in the luxe with the 480 radiator on top look back some pages for the pics lol i made a mistake by getting a 54mm thick rad though I have 3 fans pushing atm gonna mod the fourth plus you can slap 3x140s above...Since then i put a 280 45mm in the front for extra headroom and run the fans at slower speed. But you could always just do 360 or 420 really depends upon how high you want to run your fans


----------



## dikkiedirk

I can only envy what you guys put together in your builds. I can't even figure out how to start putting my system together.

I have a core i7-3770K on a MSI Z77A-GD65 mobo, a Enthoo Primo case and a Alphacool D5 single 360 UT set. Later I want to a add some or a single GTX 970 watercooled. At the moment I have still a Radeon 5870 though.

I want the rad in the top of the case and the, in the set included fans, on it. Should they be on top of the rad or below the rad? In push or pull? Exhaust or intake? All basic questions for all you WC aficionados for sure, but not for a WC noob like me. Can I get some guidance, hints and tips from you guys?

I am still a bit overwhelmed from all the parts and sheer size and possibilities this case case offers.

Many thanks in advance all.


----------



## bond32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dikkiedirk*
> 
> I can only envy what you guys put together in your builds. I can't even figure out how to start putting my system together.
> 
> I have a core i7-3770K on a MSI Z77A-GD65 mobo, a Enthoo Primo case and a Alphacool D5 single 360 UT set. Later I want to a add some or a single GTX 970 watercooled. At the moment I have still a Radeon 5870 though.
> 
> I want the rad in the top of the case and the, in the set included fans, on it. Should they be on top of the rad or below the rad? In push or pull? Exhaust or intake? All basic questions for all you WC aficionados for sure, but not for a WC noob like me. Can I get some guidance, hints and tips from you guys?
> 
> I am still a bit overwhelmed from all the parts and sheer size and possibilities this case case offers.
> 
> Many thanks in advance all.


A bit overkill for what you have but that's ok. Id mount the rad up top, either push or pull but make sure you do intake.


----------



## dikkiedirk

Thanks for the fast reply. I know it is overkill but I just liked the case and got the WC fairly cheap. The system will grow however and it is rather easy to drop-in another mobo/CPU and add some GPUs.

Just see how this goes.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> A bit overkill for what you have but that's ok. Id mount the rad up top, either push or pull but make sure you do intake.


You do realize that with good airflow exhaust/intake only had a 1 to 2c in most cases?


----------



## bond32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> You do realize that with good airflow exhaust/intake only had a 1 to 2c in most cases?


Do you realize that these heat exchangers are designed to perform by intaking lower temperature air than what is potentially inside the case?

Sure it might be 1-2 degrees, some cases it's much more. So either do it the way its designed, or not.

Furthermore, why even ask if you already knew what you wanted to do? lol.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> Do you realize that these heat exchangers are designed to perform by intaking lower temperature air than what is potentially inside the case?
> 
> Sure it might be 1-2 degrees, some cases it's much more. So either do it the way its designed, or not.
> 
> Furthermore, why even ask if you already knew what you wanted to do? lol.


I didn't ask anything... Also we all have the same line of cases... Unless you have a very hot gpu dumping air inside you won't notice a big difference I personally chose exhaust for proper airflow reasons and because as intake I got higher temps because not enough hot air from gpu escaped... so intake isn't always better...


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> I didn't ask anything... Also we all have the same line of cases... Unless you have a very hot gpu dumping air inside you won't notice a big difference I personally chose exhaust for proper airflow reasons and because as intake I got higher temps because not enough hot air from gpu escaped... so intake isn't always better...


Agreed......but seemingly some think that rads are to be used as space heaters for the interior of their cases.


----------



## bond32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Agreed......but seemingly some think that rads are to be used as space heaters for the interior of their cases.


So you really care if the air temperature inside the case is at 33 degrees C vs 36 C? Don't think that is going to make or break your overclock there buddy.

It's a heat exchanger. Basic principle. The higher the delta T with the cold fluid (in this case the ambient air) the more efficient the exchanger itself is. Hence why sending 30 degree air through it is much more efficient over sending 36 degree air through it.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> So you really care if the air temperature inside the case is at 33 degrees C vs 36 C? Don't think that is going to make or break your overclock there buddy.
> 
> It's a heat exchanger. Basic principle. The higher the delta T with the cold fluid (in this case the ambient air) the more efficient the exchanger itself is. Hence why sending 30 degree air through it is much more efficient over sending 36 degree air through it.


No, I simply set up my airflow correctly so that I don't have to care.

But thank you for explaining to me how a heat exchanger works, them thar contraptions dern had me baffled. Done thought it was magic.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> No, I simply set up my airflow correctly so that I don't have to care.
> 
> But thank you for explaining to me how a heat exchanger works, them thar contraptions dern had me baffled. Done thought it was magic.


this also the comment about 3c not breaking an overclock tells me someone had never pushed the limits of an overclock....I do what gives the best temperatures for the components and having seen both ways work better I'm gonna say making a blanket statement one way or the other is silly.... sure cooler air generally makes the rad etc run cooler but not necessarily better for other components...Let's say your gpu is running hot and your rad is pushing more hot air onto it then you get throttling... Now you see...it's a trade off sometimes.... that's why i always tell people to try it both ways and see


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> I didn't ask anything... Also we all have the same line of cases... Unless you have a very hot gpu dumping air inside you won't notice a big difference I personally chose exhaust for proper airflow reasons and because as intake I got higher temps because not enough hot air from gpu escaped... so intake isn't always better...


"Proper airflow" is not intake or exhaust .. both intake and exhaust flow the same amount of air.

What comes in must go out / what goes out must come in.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> So you really care if the air temperature inside the case is at 33 degrees C vs 36 C? Don't think that is going to make or break your overclock there buddy.
> 
> It's a heat exchanger. Basic principle. The higher the delta T with the cold fluid (in this case the ambient air) the more efficient the exchanger itself is. Hence why sending 30 degree air through it is much more efficient over sending 36 degree air through it.


Yes, I do care if the temp is higher inside my case than it needs to be. I would rather keep the air inside the case at 22-24c )1-3c warmer than room) and let that air do all the cooling rather than draw air into case through radiators and have case air 10-15c warmer than room.


----------



## bond32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> this also the comment about 3c not breaking an overclock tells me someone had never pushed the limits of an overclock....I do what gives the best temperatures for the components and having seen both ways work better I'm gonna say making a blanket statement one way or the other is silly.... sure cooler air generally makes the rad etc run cooler but not necessarily better for other components...Let's say your gpu is running hot and *your rad is pushing more hot air onto it then you get throttling*... Now you see...it's a trade off sometimes.... that's why i always tell people to try it both ways and see


?????????????

What?

I have no idea if you are directing this at me or what. In either case, but this is just... wow. Please for the love of everything, do some research before posting again.

Edit:
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> "Proper airflow" is not intake or exhaust .. both intake and exhaust flow the same amount of air.
> 
> What comes in must go out / what goes out must come in.
> Yes, I do care if the temp is higher inside my case than it needs to be. I would rather keep the air inside the case at 22-24c )1-3c warmer than room) and let that air do all the cooling rather than draw air into case through radiators and have case air 10-15c warmer than room.


My first impression is to ask WHY?! But I know you cool with air cooled heat sinks. At least with components cooled by water, having other components such as the board, VRM area, ect around 10-15 degrees warmer has literally zero effect on anything (performance, overclock, etc.). What DOES have an effect however, would be if your GPU CORE/CPU CORE temps are *3-5 degrees* cooler.


----------



## bakingbread86

My cable management.... atrocious. The inside of the case where the components are is fine, I have no problems there. But it's the back of the case that's the problem. All those wires to tuck and move around so I can actually get the back panel on.... Can I get some tips? Even with Phanteks included cable management straps, I'm still sucking at it.

Also, can anyone explain the fan hub to me? I'd love to run all my case fans on it(will have my CPU cooler fans plugged into the motherboard CPUFAN_1 and 2) but I'm not sure exactly what to do. But the idea of being able to control all of my case fans' speed is awesome.









And finally, why does it take SO LONG to load when I click on "Subscriptions" on this website?


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> Edit:
> My first impression is to ask WHY?! But I know you cool with air cooled heat sinks. At least with components cooled by water, having other components such as the board, VRM area, ect around 10-15 degrees warmer has literally zero effect on anything (performance, overclock, etc.). What DOES have an effect however, would be if your GPU CORE/CPU CORE temps are *3-5 degrees* cooler.


If what you say was true why do motherboard, audio card, HDD, etc. use heat sinks? 10-15c warmer than 25c room is very warm.

You said
Quote:


> Do you realize that these heat exchangers are designed to perform by intaking lower temperature air than what is potentially inside the case?


Heat exchangesr = heatsinks. Both exchange heat. They are not "designed" to work by room air versus case air. They are designed to move heat from what they are connected to into the air surrounding them .. full stop.

you also said
Quote:


> It's a heat exchanger. Basic principle. The higher the delta T with the cold fluid (in this case the ambient air) the more efficient the exchanger itself is. Hence why sending 30 degree air through it is much more efficient over sending 36 degree air through it.


Isn't it better to keep case air cool / same / similar to room instead of making it an oven?









My statement stands:
Quote:


> Yes, I do care if the temp is higher inside my case than it needs to be. I would rather keep the air inside the case at 22-24c )1-3c warmer than room) and let that air do all the cooling rather than draw air into case through radiators and have case air 10-15c warmer than room.


When case air temp is only 1-3c warmer than room everything in the case is cool


----------



## michaelius

bakingbread86 - Just remember all fans will run same % settings when connected to hub.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> My first impression is to ask WHY?! But I know you cool with air cooled heat sinks. At least with components cooled by water, having other components such as the board, VRM area, ect around 10-15 degrees warmer has literally zero effect on anything (performance, overclock, etc.). What DOES have an effect however, would be if your GPU CORE/CPU CORE temps are *3-5 degrees* cooler.


Wow....that is magic! By drawing air through the rad that is 1-3 degrees cooler, it produces a drop of 3-5 degrees at the components.

As doyll stated, if you get your airflow right *all* of your components are better off. Whether you are using air or water makes no difference.


----------



## bond32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Wow....that is magic! By drawing air through the rad that is 1-3 degrees cooler, it produces a drop of 3-5 degrees at the components.
> 
> As doyll stated, if you get your airflow right *all* of your components are better off. Whether you are using air or water makes no difference.


Your sarcastic tone is noted, but your post is still laughed at. Bet if you spent some time on these boards reading a few things you might could stand to learn a thing or two.

You don't care how hot or cold the motherboard is (unless its stupid hot). You don't care how hot or cold your sound card is. You DO care how hot or cold the GPU/CPU is correct? If you DO, then re-read your post. Now thing if you need to cool that with bringing in warmer air, or cooler air...

It really isnt that hard to grasp.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> Your sarcastic tone is noted, but your post is still laughed at. ...


The only person laughing is you then.

Perhaps you don't realize it, but ciarlatano, one of the many you are currently on the losing side of this argument with, I believe is better known as George Cella, a reviewer for HiTechLegion.com who has done countless reviews of CPU coolers, both water and air, PSUs, motherboards, cases, etc.

I'll go so far as to agree with you a bit, in that radiators do perform their job better the lower temp the air being pushed/pulled through them is, so in general if all your most heat-effected components (ie: CPU and GPUs) are watercooled it is most often suggested that you have rads as intakes, but it's not a given that will always yield better performance that way, and even when it does the difference is slight. Every case is different. If, for example, your CPU is watercooled but your GPU(s) are air cooled, it's generally suggested that it's better to have the CPU's rad as exhaust, but again, it's not always the case that's what works best.

Do you know of any reputable testing done that confirms having rads as intake or exhaust is better or worse either way? I doubt it. If it's such a given as you suggest it is then there should be plenty of evidence you can point to to back it up, but I'm unaware of any such thing. Martin never took any such testing on because there are too many variables to come up with an answer either way. Just go ask in the OCN Watercooling Club thread. It's been asked and debated there many times before and there is never a consensus either way other than a general tendency to suggest that having rads as intake is better as long as all your major components are watercooled, but some of the more experienced people there know that's not always the case and will simply tell you to try it out either way to see what works best for you.

In my experience it doesn't make so great of a difference to worry about it much if at all. A perfectly reasonable way for deciding which way you want the airflow through your rads may simply be whether you would rather be looking at the front or the backs of the fans mounted to the rads inside your case.


----------



## bond32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> The only person laughing is you then.
> 
> Perhaps you don't realize it, but ciarlatano, one of the many you are currently on the losing side of this argument with, I believe is better known as George Cella, a reviewer for HiTechLegion.com who has done countless reviews of CPU coolers, both water and air, PSU, motherboards, cases, etc.
> 
> I'll go so far as to agree with you a bit, in that radiators do perform their job better the lower temp the air being pushed/pulled through them is, so in general if all your most heat-effected components (ie: CPU and GPUs) are watercooled it is most often suggested that you have rads as intakes, but it's not a given that will always yield better performance that way, and even when it does the difference is slight. Every case is different. If, for example, your CPU is watercooled but your GPU(s) are air cooled, it's generally suggested that it's better to have the CPU's rad as exhaust, but again, it's not always the case that's what works best.
> 
> Do you know of any reputable testing done that confirms having rads as intake or exhaust is better or worse either way? I doubt it. If it's such a given as you suggest it is then there should be plenty of evidence you can point to to back it up, but I'm unaware of any such thing. Martin never took any such testing on because there are too many variables to come up with an answer either way. Just go ask in the OCN Watercooling Club thread. It's been asked and debated there many times before and there is never a consensus either way other than a general tendency to suggest that having rads as intake is better as long as all your major components are watercooled, but some of the more experienced people there know that's not always the case and will simply tell you to try it out either way to see what works best for you.


Well said then. Agree to disagree I guess?

Personally my setup isn't in a case right now so no I haven't and won't do any testing, but I will be purchasing a second primo soon. I keep up with this thread because I like to get ideas from a lot of what you guys are doing.

And on a separate note, I am still considering using my Enthoo Pro just think it's more trouble than it's worth to try to fit 4 290x's in it.


----------



## greg1184

I am on the brink of getting a Phanteks case. I am thinking the Primo. Is it significantly better than the much cheaper Pro or Luxe?


----------



## doyll

What Unicr0nhunter said.









Much of what is written on forum and internet in general is far from truth and based more on supposition, guess work and one test without accurate or validation.

Some of us use research and testing to verify what is and isn't accurate and true.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *greg1184*
> 
> I am on the brink of getting a Phanteks case. I am thinking the Primo. Is it significantly better than the much cheaper Pro or Luxe?


Both have their place. if you need more room and airflow, the Primo is better. If you have limited space, then Luxe or Pro is better.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *greg1184*
> 
> I am on the brink of getting a Phanteks case. I am thinking the Primo. Is it significantly better than the much cheaper Pro or Luxe?


I have both a Primo and a Luxe that I am using right now. There is a big space difference, as doyll points out, but there is also a generation difference that shows a bit. While the Luxe doesn't have all of the crazy water cooling compatibility of the Primo, it is a bit more polished in its design and execution. It really boils down to a question of what is going into it, and which it will fit more comfortably in.

In a totally personal opinion, I actually like the Luxe a bit better and will likely move my main rig from the Primo into it in the next few months unless I go with the Mini XL by then. The Primo has incredible options, but it really is huge.


----------



## doyll

Ciarlatano explained it better than me. I love my Primo but it is very big. If I could I would use a Luxe. It's big enough for most systems and will fit where the Primo cannot. The Primo is so big that it will not fit under many desks .. definitely not with s a castor base under it.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> "Proper airflow" is not intake or exhaust .. both intake and exhaust flow the same amount of air.
> 
> What comes in must go out / what goes out must come in.


by this I mean my bottom rad and front fans are intake and my top and rear fans are exhaust this includes my H220-X rad meaning I did so to not disrupt the airflow I have setup...I tested every fan in every combo I could think of and with my heater of a video card that worked better


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> by this I mean my bottom rad and front fans are intake and my top and rear fans are exhaust this includes my H220-X rad meaning I did so to not disrupt the airflow I have setup...I tested every fan in every combo I could think of and with my heater of a video card that worked better


I am using the same setup in my Primo. Produced the best temps for all components involved.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> ?????????????
> 
> What?
> 
> I have no idea if you are directing this at me or what. In either case, but this is just... wow. Please for the love of everything, do some research before posting again.
> 
> Edit:
> My first impression is to ask WHY?! But I know you cool with air cooled heat sinks. At least with components cooled by water, having other components such as the board, VRM area, ect around 10-15 degrees warmer has literally zero effect on anything (performance, overclock, etc.). What DOES have an effect however, would be if your GPU CORE/CPU CORE temps are *3-5 degrees* cooler.


rofl... I think you need to research vrm throttling... this occurs when the components you described as not mattering 10 to 15 degrees gets too hot and the board itself throttles the components to lower vrm draw....or worst case bye bye vrms... possible component damage.... Ask people who's vrms have let loose the magic smoke due to heat and lost components if 10 to 15c matters...You also proved my other point by saying 3 to 5c lower on video card matters...if I "exhange" heat down on my already hot video card if it's near the throttle point due to overclock guess what it will throttle. .. But I guess running open air you won't have that issue


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> by this I mean my bottom rad and front fans are intake and my top and rear fans are exhaust this includes my H220-X rad meaning I did so to not disrupt the airflow I have setup...I tested every fan in every combo I could think of and with my heater of a video card that worked better


My statement was more to point out to others that airflow is airflow.









What you have and what you are doing is doing it correctly.


----------



## greg1184

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> I have both a Primo and a Luxe that I am using right now. There is a big space difference, as doyll points out, but there is also a generation difference that shows a bit. While the Luxe doesn't have all of the crazy water cooling compatibility of the Primo, it is a bit more polished in its design and execution. It really boils down to a question of what is going into it, and which it will fit more comfortably in.
> 
> In a totally personal opinion, I actually like the Luxe a bit better and will likely move my main rig from the Primo into it in the next few months unless I go with the Mini XL by then. The Primo has incredible options, but it really is huge.


Thanks for the info. I currently have the HAF X, and while it is a nice size, it seems difficult to maneuver in. I have a EX360 radiator on the top and of course it obstructs the top 5.25 drive bay so that only a fan controller could fit.


----------



## firefoxx04

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *greg1184*
> 
> I am on the brink of getting a Phanteks case. I am thinking the Primo. Is it significantly better than the much cheaper Pro or Luxe?


I have the Pro. If I had the money (at the time of purchase) I would have went with the primo (even though I I am loving the pro, especially for its $100 price tag)

The Primo has
- More fans (5 140mm fans)
- more vertical space. PSU is out of the way for a LARGE radiator at the bottom.
- more roof space. You can fit fans between the top of the case and the top panel. Important for people using thick radiators at the top.
- 5.25 inch basy. The pro has 3 and that is 1 less than I would like.
- Appears to have more cable management space behind the motherboard.

Im not sure if its worth $100 extra, thats up to you. If you are watercooling, I would really recommend the Primo over the Pro. Yes people use the Pro for watercooling but the Primo can fit a rad in the roof and floor (large rads at that) without removing too many things. The Pro cannot fit a BIG rad on the floor without removing the bottom drive cages and the top rad cannot thick (and forget about push pull).

Im air cooling in the pro now and its fantastic. Dual 140mm fans up front provide plenty of intake for a 4.2ghz Phenom II and a couple graphics cards.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *greg1184*
> 
> Thanks for the info. I currently have the HAF X, and while it is a nice size, it seems difficult to maneuver in. I have a EX360 radiator on the top and of course it obstructs the top 5.25 drive bay so that only a fan controller could fit.


If you are finding the HAF X to be "difficult to maneuver in" and an issue that a 360 rad up top obstructs the top bay, then you should probably lean towards the Primo. The Pro and Luxe are both slightly smaller cases than the HAF X with the same issues with a top 360 rad obstructing the top drive bay. Well, it's possible in the Luxe to have a 30mm thick 360 rad with only a single layer of fans on top and it wouldn't block any of the top drive bay thanks to how they have the I/O port panel, but a thicker of a rad or fans in push-pull would, and in the Pro you don't have the option of having fans on top so any 360 rad would.

I'm definitely in the minority but I've found the Primo to be a bit too small of a case. It would have been soooo much better of a case if they would have made it more the size of a 900D or a Cosmos II. It's just a few cm's too small in height and depth that, for example, causes serious issues trying to fit most common length GPU's along with a tube res, which is a bit ridiculous imho for a case that's otherwise so well designed with watercooling in mind. I honestly couldn't imagine trying to work in the Pro or Luxe.


----------



## dikkiedirk

Will this be ok for starters guys?



Suggestions are welcomed.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

@dikkiedirk,
Just a tip. You'll be more likely to have people respond to your post if you embed the photo so people can see it using the 'image' button instead of saving it as an attachment that people would have to download.


----------



## dikkiedirk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> @dikkiedirk,
> Just a tip. You'll be more likely to have people respond to your post if you embed the photo so people can see it using the 'image' button instead of saving it as an attachment that people would have to download.


Thanks, edited an fixed as suggested.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dikkiedirk*
> 
> Will this be ok for starters guys?
> 
> 
> 
> Suggestions are welcomed.


Absolutely. The only thing I would suggest is trying the fans on the UT60 bottom mounted in push on the rad, rather than in a top pull. I have run a couple of UT60s as lone radiators in loops and got noticeably better performance this way, especially at lower rpm.

Try it both ways and see what works best for you.


----------



## dikkiedirk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Absolutely. The only thing I would suggest is trying the fans on the UT60 bottom mounted in push on the rad, rather than in a top pull. I have run a couple of UT60s as lone radiators in loops and got noticeably better performance this way, especially at lower rpm.
> 
> Try it both ways and see what works best for you.


How much difference in degrees centigrade did you have. Which fans were used at what rpm? I was told push migh fill the radiator with dust overtime and be more difficult to clean. But that might not be inside a case where the air is already filtered. When there is air movement there will be dust, I guess. Unless you live in a cleanroom. Do you have suggestios for low rpm fans? I want it as quiet as possible.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> rofl... I think you need to research vrm throttling... this occurs when the components you described as not mattering 10 to 15 degrees gets too hot and the board itself throttles the components to lower vrm draw....or worst case bye bye vrms... possible component damage.... Ask people who's vrms have let loose the magic smoke due to heat and lost components if 10 to 15c matters...You also proved my other point by saying 3 to 5c lower on video card matters...if I "exhange" heat down on my already hot video card if it's near the throttle point due to overclock guess what it will throttle. .. But I guess running open air you won't have that issue


You are so incredibly correct.

As much as I know this whole thing is OT.....so I will keep it brief.

There is a rampant lack of holistic consideration in people's thoughts on cooling these days. I really believe a lot of it has to do with CLC marketing. They were the first ones to tell you that your other components don't matter, only the ones that they are cooling do. Since they needed to do all they could to justify the expense and noise of what is really a subpar platform (sorry, it is), early CLC install instructions always told you to run the fans as intakes.....and VRM heat issues from this period are well documented, yet people still believe this is a good idea.

Now the CLC marketers are more than happy to tell you that your GPU's VRM doesn't matter either. Just slap a CLC on the GPU and let the VRM worry about itself. It's frightening that people do this. Even more frightening that they spend about as much on two CLCs and a bracket as they would on doing an actual small open loop with a budget full cover block.

Sorry for the OT, but it was really bugging me.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dikkiedirk*
> 
> How much difference in degrees centigrade did you have. Which fans were used at what rpm? I was told push migh fill the radiator with dust overtime and be more difficult to clean. But that might not be inside a case where the air is already filtered. When there is air movement there will be dust, I guess. Unless you live in a cleanroom. Do you have suggestios for low rpm fans? I want it as quiet as possible.


Temp differences varied by the other components in the build, but temps were better across the board. As I had stated, it was especially apparent at lower rpm, so in your want for silence it may work out better for you. As far as dust, I cleaned my rads after a year of use recently and there was almost nothing to speak of. The dust filters do their jobs.

_But_, it is very easy to flip the fans in either of those cases - literally a couple of minute process. I suggest you try it both ways to see what works out better in your build.

I have used the Noctua PPC2000, Cooler Master JetFlo and Noctua NF-F12 on the UT60. Personally, I like the PPC2000 PWM - very low 450 rpm start up speed to keep things quiet, but the ability to move massive amounts of air should I need it. The NF-F12 is a touch quieter, but does not have the top end capability of the PPC2000. The JetFlo performs well, but the noise/performance on them is not great.

I know that Noise Blocker and Scythe make some fans that are supposed to be excellent, but I don't have first hand experience with them. Gentle Typhoons were always the fan of choice, but are nearly impossible to get in the US at a reasonable price now.


----------



## dikkiedirk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Temp differences varied by the other components in the build, but temps were better across the board. As I had stated, it was especially apparent at lower rpm, so in your want for silence it may work out better for you. As far as dust, I cleaned my rads after a year of use recently and there was almost nothing to speak of. The dust filters do their jobs.
> 
> _But_, it is very easy to flip the fans in either of those cases - literally a couple of minute process. I suggest you try it both ways to see what works out better in your build.
> 
> I have used the Noctua PPC2000, Cooler Master JetFlo and Noctua NF-F12 on the UT60. Personally, I like the PPC2000 PWM - very low 450 rpm start up speed to keep things quiet, but the ability to move massive amounts of air should I need it. The NF-F12 is a touch quieter, but does not have the top end capability of the PPC2000. The JetFlo performs well, but the noise/performance on them is not great.
> 
> I know that Noise Blocker and Scythe make some fans that are supposed to be excellent, but I don't have first hand experience with them. Gentle Typhoons were always the fan of choice, but are nearly impossible to get in the US at a reasonable price now.


Which Gentle Typhoons do you mean AP-13 or AP-15? Is the only difference the rpm? I'm in Holland and those can be found here but also at rather high prices. I might go with some Noctuas.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> You are so incredibly correct.
> 
> As much as I know this whole thing is OT.....so I will keep it brief.
> 
> There is a rampant lack of holistic consideration in people's thoughts on cooling these days. I really believe a lot of it has to do with CLC marketing. They were the first ones to tell you that your other components don't matter, only the ones that they are cooling do. Since they needed to do all they could to justify the expense and noise of what is really a subpar platform (sorry, it is), early CLC install instructions always told you to run the fans as intakes.....and VRM heat issues from this period are well documented, yet people still believe this is a good idea.
> 
> Now the CLC marketers are more than happy to tell you that your GPU's VRM doesn't matter either. Just slap a CLC on the GPU and let the VRM worry about itself. It's frightening that people do this. Even more frightening that they spend about as much on two CLCs and a bracket as they would on doing an actual small open loop with a budget full cover block.
> 
> Sorry for the OT, but it was really bugging me.


Not over the top at all.
Only the simple truth .. which too many don't seem to understand .. kinda like testing cooler in a system and not monitoring the temperature of air going into the cooler, but instead using the room temp and saying it's "real world" cooler testing. Only in their "real world" minds.







.

And I also have "Zero" tolerance for procrastination.


----------



## bond32

Hilarious. Throttling fears.

Keep that sound card cool fellas! Need to get higher benchmarks!


----------



## doyll

Seems there's a nasty buzzing here.. maybe from under a bridge.
Wish it would go away.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Seems there's a nasty buzzing here.. maybe from under a bridge.
> Wish it would go away.


May be coming from a toasting VRM.....


----------



## bond32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> May be coming from a toasting VRM.....


You mean the fujipoly k=17 thermal pads on my 4 290x's? The ones that keep the VRM temperatures around 45 degrees C while pushing 1.47 volts to each card? Or do you mean the EVGA stock heatsink cooling the VRM on the motherboard, the one that doesn't care if it's at 20 degrees C or 50 C...


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> Hilarious. Throttling fears.
> 
> Keep that sound card cool fellas! Need to get higher benchmarks!


yeah I always skirt the issue with a bad joke when I'm wrong too lol...kinda funny someone on overclock.net that has never experienced a temp throttle.... Must be scared to push anything....

edith wait I see he's an Intel guy... thus explains the complex....Maybe if he pushed his cpu overclock a bit he could understand the vrms needing cooling...honestly with that many cards he would see a decent benefit but I'm sure I'm wrong about that too


----------



## bond32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> yeah I always skirt the issue with a bad joke when I'm wrong too lol...kinda funny someone on overclock.net that has never experienced a temp throttle.... Must be scared to push anything....
> 
> edith wait I see he's an Intel guy... thus explains the complex....Maybe if he pushed his cpu overclock a bit he could understand the vrms needing cooling...honestly with that many cards he would see a decent benefit but I'm sure I'm wrong about that too


Ok, I was wrong. THAT was hilarious.

Edit: I realize we have ventured off topic substantially. But posts like that, wow. What are you getting at? I'm really trying to figure it out.

You saying I don't have a good cpu overclock? I wouldn't call a 4790k at 5.1 ghz bad at all.

"he's an Intel guy" What does that mean?

"that many cards" What does that mean too? You're on an overclock site. We push hardware to the limits. Not sure what you're getting at, I'm trying to understand though.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> Ok, I was wrong. THAT was hilarious.
> 
> Edit: I realize we have ventured off topic substantially. But posts like that, wow. What are you getting at? I'm really trying to figure it out.
> 
> You saying I don't have a good cpu overclock? I wouldn't call a 4790k at 5.1 ghz bad at all.
> 
> "he's an Intel guy" What does that mean?
> 
> "that many cards" What does that mean too? You're on an overclock site. We push hardware to the limits. Not sure what you're getting at, I'm trying to understand though.


yes you are wrong saying vrm temps dont matter is ignorant...Your sig rig states 4ghz...running 4 video cards benefits from the higher cpu overclock...I would also like to see your vrms at 50c under heavy loads...Intel Imc and vrms generally don't get the workout that 83xx series amd boards do even if purely from a power draw prospective..just because you haven't experienced vrm throttling doesn't mean vrm temps dont matter...There are a lot of factors that effect temps...saying intake is always better and vrm temps dont matter is plain wrong maybe it worked better for you and you don't have an issue with vrm temps but don't make blanket statements


----------



## bond32

Edit: nvm. This thread is a loss cause.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> May be coming from a toasting VRM.....


Probably, or the sound they make when throttling .. and now the buzz is changing it's tune.








I keep my case cool so not sure what they sound like.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> Edit: nvm. This thread is a loss cause.


I like the way you agreed with my points proving what I said yet still tried to stick to your quite wrong blanket statements then edited it...I don't care what you believe but having someone who doesn't know the difference in a good overclocking board and proper cooling read you saying only cpu and gpu temps matter then overclocking until the vrms kick the bucket and potentially cripple the 1500 dollar system they just built is just wrong...not everyone has the same setup... You could simply have said on your systems vrm temps have always been within limits...Instead you imply that vrm temps are negligible...put an 83xx chip in a weak 8 phase or even a strong four phase board and overclock it to say 4.6 and say vrm temps dont matter lol...sure with Intel builds vrm temps aren't usually a concern that I agree with but even though a lot have went Intel a lot of people are going amd to save 500 on a build...


----------



## emsj86

So... This is the phanteks case club right.... Lol


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> So... This is the phanteks case club right.... Lol


yeah sorry about that.... on topic note these dust filters are the tops... saves me a lot of cash on compressed air and takes about 3 minutes to clean them all even rinsing and air fan drying....I also noticed some people complained about the rubber grommets coming out easily on other sites I didn't encounter this but I did pull an unused one out to see how easy they came out and perhaps they had an unproperly sized batch because it was a beast to get out


----------



## Trestles126

Couple of pics of mine for reference 240 bottom 240 ek 68mm up top ekd5 res mounted to far right of MoBo tray aquatube resivor in drive bay for looks in the window. Hard acrylic tubing thing runs cool gtx 780ti n 4790k 4.0g at 4.4 playing cod advanced warfare full everything at 50c highest temp and 38c on gpu


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trestles126*
> 
> Couple of pics of mine for reference 240 bottom 240 ek 68mm up top ekd5 res mounted to far right of MoBo tray aquatube resivor in drive bay for looks in the window. Hard acrylic tubing thing runs cool gtx 780ti n 4790k 4.0g at 4.4 playing cod advanced warfare full everything at 50c highest temp and 38c on gpu


Is that the luxe and what tubing did you use and fittings (is t pc petg with ghost fittings?) very nice build simple but you made it seem like it was built from the factory this way. Love it. You ever think of putting a Aric mirror on the psu cover so you can see the bottom of the gpu block


----------



## benbenkr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> Edit: nvm. This thread is a loss cause.


You mean you're the lost cause.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> So... This is the phanteks case club right.... Lol


It is, but every once in awhile someone tries blowing smoke when they have no fire and we have to get rid of it.


----------



## Trestles126

Entire build is Ekwb accept the fittings bitspower 12mm white compression with bits crystal link rigid tubing.

Thank u first build in 13 years a lot of learning curve again and a lot of trial and error
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Is that the luxe and what tubing did you use and fittings (is t pc petg with ghost fittings?) very nice build simple but you made it seem like it was built from the factory this way. Love it. You ever think of putting a Aric mirror on the psu cover so you can see the bottom of the gpu block


Couple of pics of mine for reference 240 bottom 240 ek 68mm up top ekd5 res mounted to far right of MoBo tray aquatube resivor in drive bay for looks in the window. Hard acrylic tubing thing runs cool gtx 780ti n 4790k 4.0g at 4.4 playing cod advanced warfare full everything at 50c highest temp and 38c on gpu


----------



## Jeemil89

I would rather have a couple of degrees hotter CPU temps than dealing with installing new dust filters on every radiator intake (top and back) that does not have them stock. Cool air from front and bottom filtered intakes and hot air out of the top(radiator) and rear. Works great and no need to install extra filters. Is 1-4 degrees really worth it?


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trestles126*
> 
> Entire build is Ekwb accept the fittings bitspower 12mm white compression with bits crystal link rigid tubing.
> 
> Thank u first build in 13 years a lot of learning curve again and a lot of trial and error
> Couple of pics of mine for reference 240 bottom 240 ek 68mm up top ekd5 res mounted to far right of MoBo tray aquatube resivor in drive bay for looks in the window. Hard acrylic tubing thing runs cool gtx 780ti n 4790k 4.0g at 4.4 playing cod advanced warfare full everything at 50c highest temp and 38c on gpu
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Very nice! Good clean lines of rigid tubing look so much better than flex tubing.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeemil89*
> 
> I would rather have a couple of degrees hotter CPU temps than dealing with installing new dust filters on every radiator intake (top and back) that does not have them stock. Cool air from front and bottom filtered intakes and hot air out of the top(radiator) and rear. Works great and no need to install extra filters. Is 1-4 degrees really worth it?


I agree. Enthoo cases have lots of airflow. Only potential problem is keeping GPU exhaust from adding heat to radiator airflow., but usually not a big problem to resolve.


----------



## Jeemil89

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> I agree. Enthoo cases have lots of airflow. Only potential problem is keeping GPU exhaust from adding heat to radiator airflow., but usually not a big problem to resolve.


What exhaust? I have it watercooled


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeemil89*
> 
> What exhaust? I have it watercooled


I assume with all radiators exhausting?


----------



## Jeemil89

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> I assume with all radiators exhausting?


Yeah i have a 360 in the roof exhausting. Did not notice any difference in temps when using it as intake, so it's now exhaust and all intake (front and bottom) is filtered. Works great and dust free


----------



## doyll

Seems the best setup for Pro and Luxe.


----------



## dikkiedirk

Can someone please explain which screws need to be removed to take out the bottom bracket on the Enthoo Primo.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dikkiedirk*
> 
> Can someone please explain which screws need to be removed to take out the bottom bracket on the Enthoo Primo.


Assuming you mean the bracket in the bottom for a 140mm fans / 280mm rad (and not the bottom bracket for the HDD cages) then see here:


----------



## dikkiedirk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Assuming you mean the bracket in the bottom for a 140mm fans / 280mm rad (and not the bottom bracket for the HDD cages) then see here:


Yes correct, that is the bracket I mean. Only 3 screws? 2 in the back and one in the motherboard tray. Someone told me there were four also one in a corner near the HDD cage.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dikkiedirk*
> 
> Yes correct, that is the bracket I mean. Only 3 screws? 2 in the back and one in the motherboard tray. Someone told me there were four also one in a corner near the HDD cage.


There are four, and they are all shown in the video. Two in the back, one on the rear of the MB tray, one on the side near the Phanteks badge.


----------



## dikkiedirk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> There are four, and they are all shown in the video. Two in the back, one on the rear of the MB tray, one on the side near the Phanteks badge.


You are right. Turning on the audio helped. The screw I missed was already been taken out.


----------



## CptnSlow

I am about to buy an awesome White Primo (PH-ES813P_WT) and I will be using my new MSI R9 295x2 so I want a red theme.. Does this case have a multicoloured top LED strip or is it a fixed blue? I see the Luxe has a multicoloured accessory strip so I'm confused.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CptnSlow*
> 
> I am about to buy an awesome White Primo (PH-ES813P_WT) and I will be using my new MSI R9 295x2 so I want a red theme.. Does this case have a multicoloured top LED strip or is it a fixed blue? I see the Luxe has a multicoloured accessory strip so I'm confused.


The Primo LED strip in the front and top is fixed blue unless you buy one of the two-toned Primo versions like the black-orange, and then the LED is orange. It's possible to replace it but it's a bit of an odd-size LED strip that's 5.5mm wide so some have had a hard time finding one that fits. Here's a guide to replacing it ...

http://themodzoo.com/forum/topic/883-enthoo-primo-front-led-color-change/

The Pro and Luxe come with an RGB LED.


----------



## CptnSlow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> The Primo LED strip in the front and top is fixed blue unless you buy one of the two-toned Primo versions like the black-orange, and then the LED is orange. It's possible to replace it but it's a bit of an odd-size LED strip that's 5.5mm wide so some have had a hard time finding one that fits. Here's a guide to replacing it ...
> 
> http://themodzoo.com/forum/topic/883-enthoo-primo-front-led-color-change/
> 
> The Pro and Luxe come with an RGB LED.


Thanks for the info... Still really want that case tho


----------



## johnnyw

Stuffed watercooling parts to my Pro yesterday. Its far from ideal, but will do until figure out better type of res for this case & also need to move the drain vavle behind that plate. Now just put it there for easy access as i need to drain it anyway in near future.

EK 360 & 240 PE rads, D5 Vario X-TOP, EK Supremacy, 5x 120mm Alphacool/noiseblocker eloops @ push etc, etc



Snakes nest at the hdd area + the current ghetto pump + res mounting











Ordered some sleeved extensions for cables + some other stuff, so didnt bother to put psu cover in yet. It does fit there fine tho, did check it


----------



## brian-phanteks

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CptnSlow*
> 
> I am about to buy an awesome White Primo (PH-ES813P_WT) and I will be using my new MSI R9 295x2 so I want a red theme.. Does this case have a multicoloured top LED strip or is it a fixed blue? I see the Luxe has a multicoloured accessory strip so I'm confused.


The LED strip on the White Primo is white. The same goes for the front LED fans.


----------



## CptnSlow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brian-phanteks*
> 
> The LED strip on the White Primo is white. The same goes for the front LED fans.


Thanks.


----------



## theoblivinator

A few days ago (and a few pages back) I asked about fitting a 420mm radiator in the top of the Luxe. I was told that you can not use the 140mm mounts that come with the case because otherwise I would get interference with the plastic shroud on the VRM cooler above the CPU socket. To fit it, I would have to custom mount the rad myself. So now I need some advice about how someone would actually do that. Is it is as simple as just drilling a few more holes for the mounting screws so I can the rad mount a little differently. I'm kinda confused about it, and some information would be swell so I know what I'm getting myself into here. Or if anyone has put a 420mm rad in the top of their Luxe and would be willing to share their experience with it, that would be swell.

Another thing, I'm planning on using a 240mm rad in the bottom too. Since that is going to take up the room of where I would use the pump mount, I'm looking into rad/pump combos now. Does anyone have any recommendations for a tube res/pump combo that fits nicely onto the res bracket or the res mount on the back of the case? Right now I have a Swiftech MCP655 PWM pump, I suppose I could get a pump top for that and maybe find a res that fits it. I'm still a complete novice on pump tops and res/pump combos so I'll be researching those as well. A point in the right direction would be appreciated.

Oh and just in case I'm going to be cooling two GTX 980's that I already have. I'm planning on using the ASUS X99 Deluxe motherboard too, if that helps with some of my questions.


----------



## LoopJunkie

I just finished last night







Finally got it all together and running.


----------



## CptnSlow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LoopJunkie*
> 
> I just finished last night
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally got it all together and running.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Awesome looking build. Nicely done.


----------



## benbenkr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeemil89*
> 
> I would rather have a couple of degrees hotter CPU temps than dealing with installing new dust filters on every radiator intake (top and back) that does not have them stock. Cool air from front and bottom filtered intakes and hot air out of the top(radiator) and rear. Works great and no need to install extra filters. Is 1-4 degrees really worth it?


I don't even think the difference is up to 4c tbh. We're looking at margin of error 1-2c here. For the convenience of not having to dust out the rad and the entire PC every 4 weeks, I'd rather sacrifice that little bit of cooling performance.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *benbenkr*
> 
> I don't even think the difference is up to 4c tbh. We're looking at margin of error 1-2c here. For the convenience of not having to dust out the rad and the entire PC every 4 weeks, I'd rather sacrifice that little bit of cooling performance.


and save 4 to 6 bucks on cans of air a month...I use one can every 3 months I used to have to use at least one sometimes 2 a month


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brian-phanteks*
> 
> The LED strip on the White Primo is white. The same goes for the front LED fans.


I stand corrected! I could have sworn I'd seen mentioned that it was blue like the original black Primo. My bad. Thanks for the correction Brian.


----------



## firefoxx04

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> and save 4 to 6 bucks on cans of air a month...I use one can every 3 months I used to have to use at least one sometimes 2 a month


I like to take a trip to the garage where the air compressor is. Set it to low pressure and use the little sprayer attachment and you get unlimited air at the cost of electricity









Just need to be careful with fans. The big compressors blow dust out of GPUs really well but they can ruin fans if they put out too much pressure.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *firefoxx04*
> 
> I like to take a trip to the garage where the air compressor is. Set it to low pressure and use the little sprayer attachment and you get unlimited air at the cost of electricity
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just need to be careful with fans. The big compressors blow dust out of GPUs really well but they can ruin fans if they put out too much pressure.


standard compressors produce static in the air which CAN be harmful to the PC components be careful doing it this way.... You might do it 100 times with no issue but it would c stuck to lose a PC component to a 4 dollar saving


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> standard compressors produce static in the air which CAN be harmful to the PC components be careful doing it this way.... You might do it 100 times with no issue but it would c stuck to lose a PC component to a 4 dollar saving


lol. You should worry about static electricity if you use a vacuum but there is absolutely nothing to worry about using an air compressor to blow out your electronics. Static electricity cannot jump an air gap except in very close proximity. Vacuums are dangerous this way because their hoses do become statically charged and must be in close proximity if not actually touching to pick up dust. Using a compressor with a blower attachment you never need to, nor should you, get close to the equipment you are blowing the dust out of.

As I have mentioned hundreds of times on OCN's threads, including many times in this Phanteks thread, I use an air compressor to blow the dust out of all of our computers out every month or two (my household currently has 5 PCs that run 24/7, and I have 3 more that are used frequently) and I've been doing exactly the same since my very first computer back in the mid 90s. I blow all our systems out with the compressor at full pressure (~115psi) keeping the blower a distance of at least 6" (usually more than 1') away from anything and whenever the air is directed at a fan I hold the blades from spinning freely with my other hand so as not to overspin them. I couldn't count how many systems I've blown the air out using an air compressor but it's likely over a thousand by now.

The only real caution I would ever give to anyone when blowing the dust out of a watercooled computer, other than the caveat firefoxx04 and I have already mentioned about fans, is to be careful blowing at the fins on a rad. You definitely don't want to blow at the fins from a close distance or you risk the air crippling the fins. I've done it one time. Went to blow the dust out of a rad and in less than a second I had completely folded over the copper fins covering an area almost the size of a 120mm fan. It took a couple hours to go through there with a hobby knife, toothpick, tweezers, etc and straighten them all out just so air would be able to go though them and it wasn't pretty. I learned my lesson the hard way that day. With an air compressor you can easily blow the dust out of even a monsta rad from a distance of a foot or more without risking damaging the fins.

*edit:*
I should probably mention that I have always had a water separator on all my air compressors. It's not an absolute necessity but I would highly recommend having one on any compressor that you were using to blow out electronics. They don't cost much. Mine cost ~$5 or so. If you don't have one then be sure to drain your tank and blow air through the gun away from your computer just before the cleaning so you don't risk giving your system a shower.

And it should go without saying but you also shouldn't be blowing the dust out of a system that's plugged in.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> lol. You should worry about static electricity if you use a vacuum but there is absolutely nothing to worry about using an air compressor to blow out your electronics. Static electricity cannot jump an air gap except in very close proximity. Vacuums are dangerous this way because their hoses do become statically charged and must be in close proximity if not actually touching to pick up dust. Using a compressor with a blower attachment you never need to, nor should you, get close to the equipment you are blowing the dust out of.
> 
> As I have mentioned hundreds of times on OCN's threads, including many times in this Phanteks thread, I use an air compressor to blow the dust out of all of our computers out every month or two (my household currently has 5 PCs that run 24/7, and I have 3 more that are used frequently) and I've been doing exactly the same since my very first computer back in the mid 90s. I blow all our systems out with the compressor at full pressure (~115psi) keeping the blower a distance of at least 6" (usually more than 1') away from anything and whenever the air is directed at a fan I hole the blades from spinning freely so as not to overspin them. I couldn't count how many systems I've blown the air out using an air compressor but it's likely over a thousand by now.
> 
> The only real caution I would ever give to anyone when blowing the dust out of a watercooled computer, other than the caveat firefoxx04 and I have already mentioned about fans, is to be careful blowing at the fins on a rad. You definitely don't want to blow at the fins from a close distance or you risk the air crippling the fins. I've done it one time. Went to blow the dust out of a rad and in less than a second I had completely folded over the copper fins covering an area almost the size of a 120mm fan. It took a couple hours to go through there with a hobby knife, toothpick, tweezers, etc and straighten them all out just so air would be able to go though them and it wasn't pretty. I learned my lesson the hard way that day. With an air compressor you can easily blow the dust out of even a monsta rad from a distance of a foot or more without risking damaging the fins.


I've been wrong before







I was always told it was I no no but that's kinda good to know might buy a small pancake compressor for the task...I was always told the static forms in the air from the electric motor...But I'm assuming the compression of it in the cylinder negates this?


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *koniu777*
> 
> The size of the acrylic is 19.25" x 18.25" and 3/16" thick.


Where did you get the acrylic sheet. I'm looking for the same size and went to McMaster but there all aller or larger than 3/16 thick and don't come in that length or width. I've been looking all over and can't find anything. I can find lowes and Home Depot but there alittle bigger and 50-100 dollars


----------



## firefoxx04

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> standard compressors produce static in the air which CAN be harmful to the PC components be careful doing it this way.... You might do it 100 times with no issue but it would c stuck to lose a PC component to a 4 dollar saving


WOW I never thought of that


----------



## Faster_is_better

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> lol. You should worry about static electricity if you use a vacuum but there is absolutely nothing to worry about using an air compressor to blow out your electronics. Static electricity cannot jump an air gap except in very close proximity. Vacuums are dangerous this way because their hoses do become statically charged and must be in close proximity if not actually touching to pick up dust. Using a compressor with a blower attachment you never need to, nor should you, get close to the equipment you are blowing the dust out of.
> 
> As I have mentioned hundreds of times on OCN's threads, including many times in this Phanteks thread, I use an air compressor to blow the dust out of all of our computers out every month or two (my household currently has 5 PCs that run 24/7, and I have 3 more that are used frequently) and I've been doing exactly the same since my very first computer back in the mid 90s. I blow all our systems out with the compressor at full pressure (~115psi) keeping the blower a distance of at least 6" (usually more than 1') away from anything and whenever the air is directed at a fan I hole the blades from spinning freely so as not to overspin them. I couldn't count how many systems I've blown the air out using an air compressor but it's likely over a thousand by now.
> 
> The only real caution I would ever give to anyone when blowing the dust out of a watercooled computer, other than the caveat firefoxx04 and I have already mentioned about fans, is to be careful blowing at the fins on a rad. You definitely don't want to blow at the fins from a close distance or you risk the air crippling the fins. I've done it one time. Went to blow the dust out of a rad and in less than a second I had completely folded over the copper fins covering an area almost the size of a 120mm fan. It took a couple hours to go through there with a hobby knife, toothpick, tweezers, etc and straighten them all out just so air would be able to go though them and it wasn't pretty. I learned my lesson the hard way that day. With an air compressor you can easily blow the dust out of even a monsta rad from a distance of a foot or more without risking damaging the fins.
> 
> 
> 
> I've been wrong before
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was always told it was I no no but that's kinda good to know might buy a small pancake compressor for the task...I was always told the static forms in the air from the electric motor...But I'm assuming the compression of it in the cylinder negates this?
Click to expand...

I never heard of static buildup from an air compressor, you shouldn't really be getting the nozzle close enough to your PC to transmit any kind of static discharge even if it did build some up.

One thing you do have to worry about is water in the compressor tank. It can collect in there from condensation, but generally can be drained before use so you just have to remember that. Another option that is highly recommended is the Metro DataVac. A very nice canned air substitute, plenty of power, plus it is mobile.

Air Compressors are nice to have anyway though, and can still be used, just with those things in mind.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Faster_is_better*
> 
> I never heard of static buildup from an air compressor, you shouldn't really be getting the nozzle close enough to your PC to transmit any kind of static discharge even if it did build some up.
> 
> One thing you do have to worry about is water in the compressor tank. It can collect in there from condensation, but generally can be drained before use so you just have to remember that. Another option that is highly recommended is the Metro DataVac. A very nice canned air substitute, plenty of power, plus it is mobile.
> 
> Air Compressors are nice to have anyway though, and can still be used, just with those things in mind.


I remember the leftover vapors from the air being compressed from my construction days I remember draining that nasty water too... if you don't drain it often enough you end up running it through your nail guns and potentially on a customers product


----------



## greg1184

I went ahead and ordered the white Enthoo Primo. Got it for $186 with some leftover reward money I had. Thanks for the recs.

Now to choose a motherboard to go with it. Maybe the MSI Xpower X99.

Cant wait to make my 3rd build.


----------



## fredocini

I've looked at quite a few reviews of the Primo and Luxe cases over the past couple weeks and am starting to fall in love with it. I'm looking at changing out my current case (Fractal Design XL R2) and am thinking the Primo or Luxe might be a good possibility as a replacement.

My question is, how appropriate are these cases for a regular ATX motherboard? You can take a look at my rig in my signature to get a good idea of what's going into the new case. I'm probably not going to look at any water-cooling options for a while; most likely an AIO cooler at best to replace my D14. I started off with a mid-tower and upgraded exactly last year to a full tower and noticed how big a difference there is in room. The reason I'm asking is because I'm finding the majority of people are purchasing these cases for water-cooling versatility and a lot of you guys have E-ATX sized boards, where as I am literally in it for the aesthetics. I'd also like to know how the noise may be in comparison to the silence oriented cases out there, and whether or not the price is worth it for a build such as my own.

Keep in mind, I'm a student and would like to save a few bucks. I know the Primo is much more expensive than the Luxe I don't like to cheap out on features that might be useful to me (E.g. Possibly better airflow options on the Primo?). Unfortunately, no local computer hardware stores in my city sell either of these cases so I can't see the cases physically.

With all that being said, and in contrary... Am I being ridiculous for considering such options?


----------



## Krahe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fredocini*
> 
> I've looked at quite a few reviews of the Primo and Luxe cases over the past couple weeks and am starting to fall in love with it. I'm looking at changing out my current case (Fractal Design XL R2) and am thinking the Primo or Luxe might be a good possibility as a replacement.
> 
> My question is, how appropriate are these cases for a regular ATX motherboard? You can take a look at my rig in my signature to get a good idea of what's going into the new case. I'm probably not going to look at any water-cooling options for a while; most likely an AIO cooler at best to replace my D14. I started off with a mid-tower and upgraded exactly last year to a full tower and noticed how big a difference there is in room. The reason I'm asking is because I'm finding the majority of people are purchasing these cases for water-cooling versatility and a lot of you guys have E-ATX sized boards, where as I am literally in it for the aesthetics. I'd also like to know how the noise may be in comparison to the silence oriented cases out there, and whether or not the price is worth it for a build such as my own.
> 
> Keep in mind, I'm a student and would like to save a few bucks. I know the Primo is much more expensive than the Luxe I don't like to cheap out on features that might be useful to me (E.g. Possibly better airflow options on the Primo?). Unfortunately, no local computer hardware stores in my city sell either of these cases so I can't see the cases physically.
> 
> With all that being said, and in contrary... Am I being ridiculous for considering such options?


I'm have a Primo and imo if you are not using a custom water loop it is very large, for what you are in need of I would say the luxe is better suited even though I personally haven't seen one either. I'm sure Uni will be on with more knowledgeable advice later in the day.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fredocini*
> 
> I've looked at quite a few reviews of the Primo and Luxe cases over the past couple weeks and am starting to fall in love with it. I'm looking at changing out my current case (Fractal Design XL R2) and am thinking the Primo or Luxe might be a good possibility as a replacement.
> 
> My question is, how appropriate are these cases for a regular ATX motherboard? You can take a look at my rig in my signature to get a good idea of what's going into the new case. I'm probably not going to look at any water-cooling options for a while; most likely an AIO cooler at best to replace my D14. I started off with a mid-tower and upgraded exactly last year to a full tower and noticed how big a difference there is in room. The reason I'm asking is because I'm finding the majority of people are purchasing these cases for water-cooling versatility and a lot of you guys have E-ATX sized boards, where as I am literally in it for the aesthetics. I'd also like to know how the noise may be in comparison to the silence oriented cases out there, and whether or not the price is worth it for a build such as my own.
> 
> Keep in mind, I'm a student and would like to save a few bucks. I know the Primo is much more expensive than the Luxe I don't like to cheap out on features that might be useful to me (E.g. Possibly better airflow options on the Primo?). Unfortunately, no local computer hardware stores in my city sell either of these cases so I can't see the cases physically.
> 
> With all that being said, and in contrary... Am I being ridiculous for considering such options?


Looking at what you are running, if you are not planning on going with a larger loop the Luxe would be a much better fit. The Primo is huge - your current system would look lost in it, while it would look right at home in a Luxe. And AiO look positively absurd in the Primo.

If you did choose to go into a loop later, you can do a 360+240 in the Luxe without a problem which more than enough for a CPU and a pair of GPUs.

And if you are planning on replacing your NH-D14 with an AiO....do yourself a huge favor and make it a Swiftech H220-X or (preferably in either the Luxe of Primo) H240-X. Besides the fact that they are expandable and can serve as the base for a loop when/if you go that way, going from an NH-D14 to a CLC is going to leave you saying "it's not any cooler, but it is soooooo much louder!". Whereas with the Swiftech you will get increased performance with a similar noise profile.


----------



## doyll

What Ciartlatano said.


----------



## Spork13

Don't forget the Pro either, unless you dislike the aesthetic of it.
Similar / same (?) internally as the Luxe. No light - but easy to add your own. Reviews I saw show it had better cooling / airflow. Of course, thats with air cooling, not water.
Oh - I think the Pro is a few $ cheaper too, even after you buy a LED strip to light it up.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spork13*
> 
> Don't forget the Pro either, unless you dislike the aesthetic of it.
> Similar / same (?) internally as the Luxe. No light - but easy to add your own. Reviews I saw show it had better cooling / airflow. Of course, thats with air cooling, not water.
> Oh - I think the Pro is a few $ cheaper too, even after you buy a LED strip to light it up.


You are correct that the Pro and the Luxe share the exact same chassis and that the Luxe also comes with LED lighting. I've not heard that the Pro has better cooling / airflow though, which I find a bit hard to believe seeing as they are pretty much identical in that respect. There are pretty significant differences between the cases though.

- The Luxe comes with the window and psu cover, which are options that cost extra with the Pro
- The Luxe comes with 2 SSD brackets to the one included with the Pro.
- The Luxe has built-in RGB LED lighting
- The front & top panels in the Pro are a plastic (simulated brushed aluminum). The Luxe top and front panels are sandblasted aluminum.
- The top panel on the Luxe is taller allowing room for an extra layer of fans on top of the chassis under the filter cover so you can have a thicker rad up top or go push pull up top which you can't do in the Pro. The Pro has 65mm room for a rad & fans up top, so up to 40mm thick rad + 25mm fans. The Luxe has that same 65mm plus another 25mm for fans on top, so can fit up to a 40mm rad with fans on top and bottom in push-pull, or up to a 65mm thick rad with fans on top.
- The top filter in the Pro is fixed in place, while the one in the Luxe has push-click latches that make it easily removable so it can be cleaned and so you can access the top section for fans.

edit:
That list of differences could probably be reworded/reordered/improved somewhat, but all of that info would make a good addition to the OP of this thread imho. There's a whole list of FAQ there for the Primo but not much there about the Pro and Luxe cases.


----------



## koniu777

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *koniu777*
> 
> The size of the acrylic is 19.25" x 18.25" and 3/16" thick.
> 
> 
> 
> Where did you get the acrylic sheet. I'm looking for the same size and went to McMaster but there all aller or larger than 3/16 thick and don't come in that length or width. I've been looking all over and can't find anything. I can find lowes and Home Depot but there alittle bigger and 50-100 dollars
Click to expand...

The acrylic I got from them was 24 x 24 and then I had to make the appropriate cuts with a jigsaw and a acrylic blade I picked up from Home Depot, if you can't make the cuts yourself then you can buy a smoked acrylic sheet online from eplastics.com and have them cut it for you. I got mine from mcmaster cause they are local and I picked it up the same day.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spork13*
> 
> Don't forget the Pro either, unless you dislike the aesthetic of it.
> Similar / same (?) internally as the Luxe. No light - but easy to add your own. Reviews I saw show it had better cooling / airflow. Of course, thats with air cooling, not water.
> Oh - I think the Pro is a few $ cheaper too, even after you buy a LED strip to light it up.


Could you supply links to those reviews? Just curious how the get less cooling out of Luxe when it has an additional fan and only real difference in airlfow vent area is front has center area of front vent covered.

Many reviews have little or no idea what they are doing.









Good example is testing coolers without monitoring the temp of air going into them .. or radiators for that matter. Room ambient affects cooler / radiator intake air temp, but so do many other variables involved. As a general rule cooler intake is at least 2-3c warmer than room ambient 10-15 minutes into a stress test run .. and usually much more than that if testing is being done in a case. Add to this that changing cooler fan speed will often also changes the cooler intake temp as well as changing cools in test system. Simple logic dictates the use of cooler intake temp as the reference temp for cooler testing. Yet they continue to use room ambient and cases claiming "real world" results like we will get on our systems ..... well my systems are very different from theirs and I get very different results too!!!


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> You are correct that the Pro and the Luxe share the exact same chassis and that the Luxe also comes with LED lighting. I've not heard that the Pro has better cooling / airflow though, which I find a bit hard to believe seeing as they are pretty much identical in that respect. There are pretty significant differences between the cases though.
> 
> - The Luxe comes with the window and psu cover, which are options that cost extra with the Pro
> - The Luxe comes with 2 SSD brackets to the one included with the Pro.
> - The Luxe has built-in RGB LED lighting
> - The front & top panels in the Pro are a plastic (simulated brushed aluminum). The Luxe top and front panels are sandblasted aluminum.
> - The top panel on the Luxe is taller allowing room for an extra layer of fans on top of the chassis under the filter cover so you can have a thicker rad up top or go push pull up top which you can't do in the Pro. The Pro has 65mm room for a rad & fans up top, so up to 40mm thick rad + 25mm fans. The Luxe has that same 65mm plus another 25mm for fans on top, so can fit up to a 40mm rad with fans on top and bottom in push-pull, or up to a 65mm thick rad with fans on top.
> - The top filter in the Pro is fixed in place, while the one in the Luxe has push-click latches that make it easily removable so it can be cleaned and so you can access the top section for fans.
> 
> edit:
> That list of differences could probably be reworded/reordered/improved somewhat, but all of that info would make a good addition to the OP of this thread imho. There's a whole list of FAQ there for the Primo but not much there about the Pro and Luxe cases.


the pro comes with psu cover on each model and price difference from windowed to not is $10... Also the Luxe has larger top to facilitate fans above?


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> *the pro comes with psu cover on each model* ...


So this is wrong? ...







Quote:


> ... and price difference from windowed to not is $10... *Also the Luxe has larger top to facilitate fans above?*


Yes.

See here: 




^ That extra 25mm for fans allows the Luxe to accommodate larger rad options up top than the Pro.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> So this is wrong? ...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yes.
> 
> See here:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ^ That extra 25mm for fans allows the Luxe to accommodate larger rad options up top than the Pro.


could've sworn I seen windowless with it on a couple sites maybe they had wrong pictures.... I'm just all sorts of wrong this week lol... Anyhow 10 dollars for two features like that us a steal Imo


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

It makes sense that Phanteks wouldn't include it with the non-window version. There's not much reason to have that PSU cover if your side panel doesn't have a window is there?

Personally I see it as the extra $50 for the Luxe over the windowed Pro is a steal, and the extra ~$70 or so more than that for the Primo is a crazy good deal.


----------



## Spork13

My Pro came with a window and PSU cover as standard. I have a feeling the earlier ones may have had them as extras.
Only 1 x ssd mount - which I don't use anyway (Despite having 2 x ssd and 1 x hdd currently installed).
Thought the Luxe had room for a thicker top rad, or extra fans - hence my statement - "for air cooling".
Will see if I can find those reviews and put some links up tomorrow. IIRC, there was little difference in stock form, but with HDD cages removed the Pro had considerably better cooling performance, using the stock fans.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spork13*
> 
> My Pro came with a window and PSU cover as standard. I have a feeling the earlier ones may have had them as extras....


It's not an earlier or later thing. The Pro is available with a window (model PH-ES614P) and without a window (PH-ES614PC). Two different versions of the case. The non-window one is a little bit cheaper.
Quote:


> Only 1 x ssd mount - which I don't use anyway (Despite having 2 x ssd and 1 x hdd currently installed).
> Thought the Luxe had room for a thicker top rad, or extra fans - hence my statement - "for air cooling".
> Will see if I can find those reviews and put some links up tomorrow. IIRC, there was little difference in stock form, but with HDD cages removed the Pro had considerably better cooling performance, using the stock fans.


Umm, I think the last few posts makes pretty clear that the Luxe has room up top for a larger rad, and the filters are the same except the Luxe's is removable and easier to keep clean which I would venture will provide better airflow in-real-life usage over the Pro. Other than that, the cases share the same chassis. Removing the HDD cages on the Pro would be exactly the same as removing the HDD cages in the Luxe.


----------



## orick

I didn't even know the pro had a non windowed version until I did some research to see which shop had the best price and the non windowed one popped up.

Part of the reason I went with pro over luxe was also because reviews showed the pro had better air cooling results. I think it's due to the front vent not being covered. On the phone now so hard to look up but I think techpowerup had a comparison chart when reviewing the luxe.


----------



## emsj86

If the luxe had the same chasis as the pro. Is it possible to put the luxe top on the pro so I can have more room for a larger rad or push pull


----------



## koniu777

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> If the luxe had the same chasis as the pro. Is it possible to put the luxe top on the pro so I can have more room for a larger rad or push pull


I don't think the luxe top would align with the pro front and even if you could make it work I don't think it would look good.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> If the luxe had the same chasis as the pro. Is it possible to put the luxe top on the pro so I can have more room for a larger rad or push pull


Just looking at images of the two cases from the side the Luxe and the Pro are completely different in how the front and top panels fit together. The Luxe top would never fit up to a Pro front. They would also look markedly different with the Pro being plastic and the Luxe being aluminum with an entirely different textured finish.

That said, fat chance that Phanteks would ever sell the parts separately.

edit: lol, ninja'd by koniu777


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Just looking at images of the two cases from the side the Luxe and the Pro are completely different in how the front and top panels fit together. The Luxe top would never fit up to a Pro front. They would also look markedly different with the Pro being plastic and the Luxe being aluminum with an entirely different textured finish.
> 
> That said, fat chance that Phanteks would ever sell the parts separately.
> 
> edit: lol, ninja'd by koniu777


I like the more open mesh front of the pro but I would like to have the top from the Luxe but they are already so simular I can pretty much rule out best of both worlds without modification...I have considered extending my pro top to house rads above the top chassis frame I just haven't decided how I want to do this yet (materials, size,etc.)
Edit: I've been eyeballing this as an option
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/12216/wnl-107/ModSmart_Cast_GLS_Modders_Acrylic_16_x_16_DIY_-_Smoke_DIY-16-AC-SK-125.html?tl=g44c351&id=aW8nBhMT
but not sure what would be the best way to secure the box together...I was thinking small l brackets or silicone in the joints... Just bouncing ideas... was thinking if I went this route I could make a small plate out of it for the power button and reuse the Pro top


----------



## emsj86

More of a thought than something I would do but maybe the front and top of the luxe could replace front and top of pro. As for phanteks selling them I doubt it but they so far sold me a new side panel and a new top for my pro (well the top they have me for free). I've been thinking and wonder if you have any ideas of modding the top of the pro to make it bigger to ft a larger rad because that's one of the pros negative features


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> standard compressors produce static in the air which CAN be harmful to the PC components be careful doing it this way.... You might do it 100 times with no issue but it would c stuck to lose a PC component to a 4 dollar saving


One perk of my job is I have two huge tanks of nitrogen with regulator on them. Nitrogen is used when checking leaks on refrigeration bc it's dry air no moisture at all. So it's perfect for cleaning my computer and cost me not a penny


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> More of a thought than something I would do but maybe the front and top of the luxe could replace front and top of pro. As for phanteks selling them I doubt it but they so far sold me a new side panel and a new top for my pro (well the top they have me for free). I've been thinking and wonder if you have any ideas of modding the top of the pro to make it bigger to ft a larger rad because that's one of the pros negative features


well post above is my thought but I don't care for the Luxe front panel or that would be OK


----------



## theoblivinator

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *theoblivinator*
> 
> A few days ago (and a few pages back) I asked about fitting a 420mm radiator in the top of the Luxe. I was told that you can not use the 140mm mounts that come with the case because otherwise I would get interference with the plastic shroud on the VRM cooler above the CPU socket. To fit it, I would have to custom mount the rad myself. So now I need some advice about how someone would actually do that. Is it is as simple as just drilling a few more holes for the mounting screws so I can the rad mount a little differently. I'm kinda confused about it, and some information would be swell so I know what I'm getting myself into here. Or if anyone has put a 420mm rad in the top of their Luxe and would be willing to share their experience with it, that would be swell.
> 
> Another thing, I'm planning on using a 240mm rad in the bottom too. Since that is going to take up the room of where I would use the pump mount, I'm looking into rad/pump combos now. Does anyone have any recommendations for a tube res/pump combo that fits nicely onto the res bracket or the res mount on the back of the case? Right now I have a Swiftech MCP655 PWM pump, I suppose I could get a pump top for that and maybe find a res that fits it. I'm still a complete novice on pump tops and res/pump combos so I'll be researching those as well. A point in the right direction would be appreciated.
> 
> Oh and just in case I'm going to be cooling two GTX 980's that I already have. I'm planning on using the ASUS X99 Deluxe motherboard too, if that helps with some of my questions.


Reposting this. Any responses?


----------



## firefoxx04

^ ^ ^ I think a 420 rad would bit fine as long as its not too thick. I forget the thickness limitation. Surely the length and width of the rad would not play into clearance. I planned on running a tripple 140 rad in the roof of my Pro and nobody seemed to have a problem with it as long as it was not too thick.

Should be noted that the non window version of the Pro does not have a PSU cover. I guess it is not needed because its really an aesthetics thing only.

I think the Luxe top will work if you use a Luxe front, considering its a Pro chassis with a few extras.


----------



## seeky

I have the enthoo luxe and am a little confused by the PWM hub. Once I connect the 4 pin cable to the CPU_FAN header on my mobo, where should I connect my CPU fan? I have a CM hyper 212 evo and the cable wont reach the hub. btw I have a Z97-A mobo.


----------



## firefoxx04

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seeky*
> 
> I have the enthoo luxe and am a little confused by the PWM hub. Once I connect the 4 pin cable to the CPU_FAN header on my mobo, where should I connect my CPU fan? I have a CM hyper 212 evo and the cable wont reach the hub. btw I have a Z97-A mobo.


You connect it to the hub. Make sure to connect it to the first port as that is what will get you an RPM reading.

edit: if you cannot reach, you can order an extension cable OR put the cpu fan on a different header. You could also decide to not use the hub at all and run the cpu fan to the cpu header. I prefer an extension cable.


----------



## Sem

i have a question for watercoolers

when it comes to the bottom rad do you have fans on the bottom of the rad sucking air from outside then pushing into the rad or do you have the fans on top pusing air out the bottom

not sure what i should do i orginally planned to have it sucking from outside but im worried about the dust filters giving it too much restiction


----------



## Pierre3400

I use air from out side on both top and bottom = less dust in the case, as i am making positive pressure.

This may help you


----------



## Sem

i know all about positive air pressure if you look at the pic on my sig i have air coming in from the bottom and top on my rads

but that was with a 750D which didnt have a fan filter on the bottom

my main concern was whether the fan filter on the bottom of the luxe will restrict airflow too much on the bottom rad


----------



## Malik

Guys, short question: Can i mount *EK-CoolStream PE 480 (Quad)* on top of *Phanteks Primo* without any problems ?


----------



## kjrayo18

done for now just waiting on my 970 to get here ?


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sem*
> 
> i know all about positvie air pressure if you look at the pic on my sig i have air coming in from the bottom and top on my rads
> 
> but that was with a 750D which didnt have a fan filter on the bottom
> 
> my main concern was whether the fan filter on the bottom of the luxe will restrict airflow too much on the bottom rad


the filters are designed to be high flow you won't have any real reduction unless you let them get clogged


----------



## Darkness Sakura

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kjrayo18*
> 
> done for now just waiting on my 970 to get here ?


Tested my 980 the other day, you'll love what the 970 can do [assuming similar differences between 780 and 770].


----------



## kjrayo18

Coming from a 550 ti I'm sure I'll love it a lot lol


----------



## dikkiedirk

Wh
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kjrayo18*
> 
> done for now just waiting on my 970 to get here ?


Me too. But why are people such a high premium for used 780 Ti's on ebay? Are they that much better/faster. Some reviews say yes.


----------



## firefoxx04

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dikkiedirk*
> 
> Wh
> Me too. But why are people such a high premium for used 780 Ti's on ebay? Are they that much better/faster. Some reviews say yes.


I think the 980 is close to the 780 ti, not the 970.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Malik*
> 
> Guys, short question: Can i mount *EK-CoolStream PE 480 (Quad)* on top of *Phanteks Primo* without any problems ?


Sure! You should have no problems fitting the CoolStream PE (38mm thick rad) or any other 480 rad up top in the Primo up to 45mm thick with fans on top and bottom in push-pull or up to 70mm thick with fans on top, and that's just so it doesn't need to overhang the mobo at all.

The Primo's 120mm-series mounting slots up top are offset ~53mm from the mobo, so as long as you didn't have anything taller than ~53mm along the top of the mobo (ram, heatsinks, etc) you could even fit thicker rad & fan combinations in the top of the Primo. Like Jesse @ TheModZoo figured for the Primo FAQ posted in this thread's OP, there was enough room for him to fit a 480 Alphacool Monsta (85mm thick) radiator with fans in push pull with his X79 Dark mobo and RipJaws ram.

The Primo doesn't really have much limitations in what rads you can fit up top up to a 480 in length. Unfortunately the same can't be said for the bottom of the case, because rads longer than 280mm in the bottom have to be able to pass through the space between that panel with the Phanteks logo plate & 5.25" bay latches and the PSU cover and there's only ~125mm of space there, so there are a lot of 360 and 480 rads that are too wide to fit in the bottom. If you want to put a 360 or 480 down there you're best off looking at 125mm-wide Alphacools or similar.

Also, 140mm series rads up to 280 in the bottom have a similar space limitation. They don't have to fit between that panel and PSU shroud, but if they are wider than ~145mm you can't fit the side panel back on, so there's likewise a lot of 140 and 280 rads too wide to fit in the Primo.


----------



## Darkness Sakura

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *firefoxx04*
> 
> I think the 980 is close to the 780 ti, not the 970.


I think the only difference between the two is the 980 is more energy efficient than the 780 Ti, that whole "do more with less" concept - it actually works.


----------



## orick

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dikkiedirk*
> 
> Wh
> Me too. But why are people such a high premium for used 780 Ti's on ebay? Are they that much better/faster. Some reviews say yes.


Ppl want them to SLI


----------



## greg1184

As mentioned before, I ordered the Primo White. This is roughly my core build that I am thinking of ordering. I think the Deluxe will match the case quite nicely.


----------



## SwiperNoSwiping

Greeting Phanteks owners! I got a weird question here. What's the distance from the bottom of the case feet to the bottom edge of the window on Enthoo Luxe? Can someone tape measure that please? preferably in mm. Thanks to anyone that responds.


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SwiperNoSwiping*
> 
> Greeting Phanteks owners! I got a weird question here. What's the distance from the bottom of the case feet to the bottom edge of the window on Enthoo Luxe? Can someone tape measure that please? preferably in mm. Thanks to anyone that responds.


looks to be about 83mm.


http://imgur.com/pzYGV


----------



## Levelog

Mmm. I really want to wait for the Mini XL, but I might end up rebuilding in the Enthoo Primo. Drop a new 4790k delidded in with a couple of 900 series cards and 2 480mm radiators. Looks great.


----------



## theoblivinator

Well today I finished planning my new X99 build that will be built inside an Enthoo Luxe! Probably going to wait on ordering the new parts until after the holiday season is over, unless I can snag some awesome holiday deals. Patience is a virtue. Thanks for the help from everyone in this thread that answered my questions.

Now I wait.


----------



## reset1101

Here are some pics of my updated WC. Sorry for the bad quality of some of them but my camera is average and Im very bad at taking photos xD


----------



## bond32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reset1101*
> 
> Here are some pics of my updated WC. Sorry for the bad quality of some of them but my camera is average and Im very bad at taking photos xD
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!












Any chance I could get you to snap a picture of the other end of that monsta 360 in the floor? Trying to get an idea of the room with that in... Looks awesome though, very jelly.


----------



## reset1101

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Any chance I could get you to snap a picture of the other end of that monsta 360 in the floor? Trying to get an idea of the room with that in... Looks awesome though, very jelly.


Im glad you like it







The Monsta is 480 actually xD so theres no room in the front, I have the draining valve there and thats it.


----------



## bond32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reset1101*
> 
> Im glad you like it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The Monsta is 480 actually xD so theres no room in the front, I have the draining valve there and thats it.


Ah I jumped the gun there, saw your sig thought the triple was the monsta. Looks great though...

I was wondering, since in theory if a 360 monsta in the floor leave 120mm of space on the front end, an 86mm rad with 25mm fans = 111mm so really close fit for a 360 and 240 monsta's in the bottom and front. Thoughts?

I only say this because I already own a monsta 360 and 240.


----------



## reset1101

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> Ah I jumped the gun there, saw your sig thought the triple was the monsta. Looks great though...
> 
> I was wondering, since in theory if a 360 monsta in the floor leave 120mm of space on the front end, an 86mm rad with 25mm fans = 111mm so really close fit for a 360 and 240 monsta's in the bottom and front. Thoughts?
> 
> I only say this because I already own a monsta 360 and 240.


My thoughts are that I wouldnt go in a lot of trouble to try that fit. I mean, the 2 Monsta you already own are pretty much capable of cooling anything out there. But if you want to try that fit and another radiator in the roof you can. But the mess of the tubing would be important I guess xD


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Any chance I could get you to snap a picture of the other end of that monsta 360 in the floor? Trying to get an idea of the room with that in... Looks awesome though, very jelly.


Don't know if this pic will help you or not. It's an older pic I snapped a while back of my 360 monsta in push-pull in the bottom of the Primo.



The port end fits right up to the HDD cages with them moved over in the position closest to the front of the case so I was able to put my 360 monsta down there and keep both HDD cages.

It's so tight though that the stop fittings in the end of the rad actually protrude into the oval-shaped slot in the side of the HDD cage so that the bottom cage can't just slide straight out like it is designed to until after I have removed the top HDD cage first, then unscrewed the two thumbscrews holding the bracket at the bottom from the floor of the case so that it can be moved over a little to the left towards the front, and only then can the lower HDD cage be removed. And the rad itself can't be removed or installed in that position until the HDD cages have been removed first, so it's a bit of a puzzle to get it all to fit down in there like that, Everything has to be oput in and taken out in the right order for it to fit. If the monsta rad wasn't in push-pull like I have it those end stop plug fittings wouldn't line up like they do into the oval opening of the HDD cage so it wouldn't fit. I'd have had to have the port end of the monsta towards the back of the case instead which I didn't want because then I couldn't have used the bottom-facing port on the monsta for a drain port like I have with the mini-valve facing the right-side panel.


----------



## bond32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Don't know if this pic will help you or not. It's an older pic I snapped a while back of my 360 monsta in push-pull in the bottom of the Primo.
> 
> 
> 
> The port end fits right up to the HDD cages with them moved over in the position closest to the front of the case so I was able to put my 360 monsta down there and keep both HDD cages.
> 
> It's so tight though that the stop fittings in the end of the rad actually protrude into the oval-shaped slot in the side of the HDD cage so that the bottom cage can't just slide straight out like it is designed to until after I have removed the top HDD cage first, then unscrewed the two thumbscrews holding the bracket at the bottom from the floor of the case so that it can be moved over a little to the left towards the front, and only then can the lower HDD cage be removed. And the rad itself can't be removed or installed in that position until the HDD cages have been removed first, so it's a bit of a puzzle to get it all to fit down in there like that, Everything has to be oput in and taken out in the right order for it to fit. If the monsta rad wasn't in push-pull like I have it those end stop plug fittings wouldn't line up like they do into the oval opening of the HDD cage so it wouldn't fit. I'd have had to have the port end of the monsta towards the back of the case instead which I didn't want because then I couldn't have used the bottom-facing port on the monsta for a drain port like I have with the mini-valve facing the right-side panel.


Very helpful, thanks. I'll try and see if it fits with both cages out and a monsta 240 in push pull up front. Then the challenge will be fitting the pumps and res in which I haven't figured out yet. Going to do similar to TSM and have a second PSU up front (2xEVGA 1300 G2's).


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

FYI, If your 360 monsta in the bottom is positioned the other way, with the port end towards the rear of the case, you'd have 20-30mm ~10mm more room for that monsta in the front. With it facing the way I have it it won't slide all the way to the back of the case. There's a small gap back there that wouldn't need to be if the ports were facing that end.

*edited:* sorry, had to remeasure.

*Late Edit:*

In any case, you would have at least 125mm to fit a monsta in the front with a 360 in the bottom, and that doesn't include the space for the fan mounted in the front of the case. There shouldn't be much of a problem putting a 240 monsta in the front, in push-pull even, with a 360 in the bottom. The tricky thing might be getting the tubing and fittings to it. Shouldn't be an issue though if you put the port end facing up on the 240.


----------



## kjrayo18

Anyone else think these cases don't absorb any noise at all? My case is so loud I have to put it on the floor lol it might just be my hyper 212+ but still think it's a bit to loud, but I do love how cool the air comes out thru the back lol


----------



## reset1101

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kjrayo18*
> 
> Anyone else think these cases don't absorb any noise at all? My case is so loud I have to put it on the floor lol it might just be my hyper 212+ but still think it's a bit to loud, but I do love how cool the air comes out thru the back lol


Well, its definitely not a Fractal R5. But you have to find out whats noisy in your system. If your fans go at 1500-2000rpms, not even the Fractal R5 would make it silent. Try to lower fan speeds having an eye on temperatures and see if it makes a difference.

Check your graphics card and psu fans too.


----------



## bakingbread86

Any videos on the PWM hub on the Enthoo Pro? Struggling to figure out how to set it up even after reading the manual. :/

Trying to power my top/back 3 exhaust fans and my bottom/front 4 intake fans. My plan is to connect my CPU cooler fans to CPU_2 on the mobo and the PWM hub to CPU_1


----------



## greg1184

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reset1101*
> 
> Here are some pics of my updated WC. Sorry for the bad quality of some of them but my camera is average and Im very bad at taking photos xD


What reservoir is that?


----------



## firefoxx04

Quote:


> Check your graphics card and psu fans too.


My OCZ 750W was so loud I put a prolimatech 140mm fan in and ran the 3pin to my motherboard.


----------



## Faster_is_better

Is there a running list of 360/480 rads that will fit in the bottom of the Primo? It seems like all the good radiators are to wide to fit within their specs (without modding).

It would be a nice addition to the OP FAQ as well.


----------



## reset1101

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *greg1184*
> 
> What reservoir is that?


It has 3 parts:

EK-RES X3 Multiport TOP WHITE
EK-RES X3 Bottom WHITE
EK-RES X3 TUBE 250


----------



## johnnyw

My Enthoo Pro build starts to be quite finished. Still going to change rear fan to some more "theme" fitting but thats about it.


----------



## dikkiedirk

I first installed the cpu loop in the Enthoo Primo. I connected the SATA power connector of the PWM hub and the molex power connector of de D5 pump to the power supply. I filled the reservoir and switched on power. The only only thing that started was the D5 pump. I topped of the reservoir and let it run for a while untill all bubbles disappeared. None of the fans run at the moment but 12 V power is supplied to the PWM hubs SATA power connector. How can I make the fans run? Is it neccessary that the 4 pin connector is connected to the motherboard? Or should thy run anyway? Should the fans on the radiator be connected to a separate fan controller?


----------



## Fantomau

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dikkiedirk*
> 
> I first installed the cpu loop in the Enthoo Primo. I connected the SATA power connector of the PWM hub and the molex power connector of de D5 pump to the power supply. I filled the reservoir and switched on power. The only only thing that started was the D5 pump. I topped of the reservoir and let it run for a while untill all bubbles disappeared. None of the fans run at the moment but 12 V power is supplied to the PWM hubs SATA power connector. How can I make the fans run? Is it neccessary that the 4 pin connector is connected to the motherboard? Or should thy run anyway? Should the fans on the radiator be connected to a separate fan controller?


when leak testing, the only thing that needs to be connected is the jumped 24pin cable and a molex or sata cable, no need to run fans or anything else.


----------



## dikkiedirk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fantomau*
> 
> when leak testing., only thing that needs to be connected is the 245pin cable and a molex or sata cable, no need to run fans or anything else.


I undesrstand that.

But should any fan connected to the PWM hub run if power is supplied to the PWM hub? And should the radiator fans be connected to a separate fan controller?


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dikkiedirk*
> 
> I first installed the cpu loop in the Enthoo Primo. I connected the SATA power connector of the PWM hub and the molex power connector of de D5 pump to the power supply. I filled the reservoir and switched on power. The only only thing that started was the D5 pump. I topped of the reservoir and let it run for a while untill all bubbles disappeared. None of the fans run at the moment but 12 V power is supplied to the PWM hubs SATA power connector. How can I make the fans run? Is it neccessary that the 4 pin connector is connected to the motherboard? Or should thy run anyway? Should the fans on the radiator be connected to a separate fan controller?


Hmmm, your Primo had a SATA connector? If that's true then I guess newer Primos now come with the same fan hub used in the Pro and Luxe cases. The hub that came with Primo cases used to have a molex connector and in general it seemed to be a better designed hub, or at least we used to see a lot less complaints here about it working properly than we now do with the hubs that come with the Pro and Luxe.

The hub that came with my Primo had a tag attached that said do not connect the molex connector unless/until you have more fans connected to the hub than the mobo header can control by itself. It wasn't designed to be used with just power from the PSU.


----------



## greg1184

Got my Primo White today:



Finally have my core build ordered:


Cant wait to be building again. I am thinking a blue-green build.


----------



## greg1184

Here are some pictures for anyone wanting to take a nice look at the White one.







This case is a wonderful piece of craftmanship. It looks like it is going to eat my HAF X alive! I cannot wait to start building.

The build quality blows the HAF X away. I haven't even started building yet, and I already find the case much easier to navigate and to remove things.


----------



## dikkiedirk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *greg1184*
> 
> Here are some pictures for anyone wanting to take a nice look at the White one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This case is a wonderful piece of craftmanship. It looks like it is going to eat my HAF X alive! I cannot wait to start building.
> 
> The build quality blows the HAF X away. I haven't even started building yet, and I already find the case much easier to navigate and to remove things.


Which fan controller is in the HAF-X?


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dikkiedirk*
> 
> Which fan controller is in the HAF-X?


I'm gonna venture a guess it's this ...
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/8384/bus-175/Thermal-Star_LCD_Media_Panel_7-in-1_Card_Reader_Fan_Controller_Temp_Display_TS-07.html


----------



## dikkiedirk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> I'm gonna venture a guess it's this ...
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/8384/bus-175/Thermal-Star_LCD_Media_Panel_7-in-1_Card_Reader_Fan_Controller_Temp_Display_TS-07.html


Looks nice. But a bit too much unnessacary stuff on it for me. Any recommendation for a fan controller only? For 6 fans and ease of use. Perhaps pump control too, if advisable. With temp and rpm readout.


----------



## GraveDigger7878

While I search through this thread I figured I would ask my question in hopes someone would be kind enough to direct me to the answer. I am trying to figure out what exactly needs to be modified to fit a 280mm Radiator in the front of this case.

My overall plan is to use 3x Swiftech QP 280mm radiators as I already own them and also 1x140mm radiator as well. I have achieved this in a Corsair 750D without modification but it is not pretty. I was thinking about returning the 750D and maybe go with the Phanteks case.

I am mainly considering Phanteks because they seem to be very enthusiastic about 140mm fans and I prefer using my massive collection of 140mm quiet and high performing fans over 120mm ones. Also it seems like putting 3x 280mm radiators in this thing would look good as well as function well.


----------



## viperguy212

Hey guys,

I'm tired of my H440 and coming to the Phanteks family. I can't decide on the Luxe or the Pro at this point.

One question I did have is if the Lux has the same sized front plate as the Primo? I would like to change it out for one of the Grills on MCNPCTech if it does in fact fit.

Any other reasons to go Luxe instead of Pro?

Thanks!


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *viperguy212*
> 
> Hey guys,
> 
> I'm tired of my H440 and coming to the Phanteks family. I can't decide on the Luxe or the Pro at this point.
> 
> One question I did have is if the Lux has the same sized front plate as the Primo? I would like to change it out for one of the Grills on MCNPCTech if it does in fact fit.
> 
> Any other reasons to go Luxe instead of Pro?
> 
> Thanks!


I'm not sure about whether the Primo and Luxe have the same size front fan filter covers or not. Here's the dimensions for the Primo. Perhaps someone with a Luxe can check theirs.



As far as the differences between the Pro and the Luxe goes, they both share the same underlying chassis but ...

- The Luxe comes with the window and psu cover, which are options that cost extra with the Pro
- The Luxe comes with 2 SSD brackets to the one included with the Pro.
- The Luxe has built-in RGB LED lighting
- The front & top panels in the Pro are a plastic (simulated brushed aluminum). The Luxe top and front panels are sandblasted aluminum.
- The top panel on the Luxe is taller allowing room for an extra layer of fans on top of the chassis under the filter cover so you can have a thicker rad up top or go push pull up top which you can't do in the Pro. The Pro has 65mm room for a rad & fans up top, so up to 40mm thick rad + 25mm fans. The Luxe has that same 65mm plus another 25mm for fans on top, so can fit up to a 40mm rad with fans on top and bottom in push-pull, or up to a 65mm thick rad with fans on top.
- The top filter in the Pro is fixed in place, while the one in the Luxe has push-click latches that make it easily removable so it can be cleaned and so you can access the top section for fans.


----------



## PureBlackFire

^ the width of that metal plate is the same, but the one on the Primo is ~ half an inch taller.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PureBlackFire*
> 
> ^ the width of that metal plate is the same, but the one on the Primo is ~ half an inch taller.


I took those measurements from a Primo. I don't have a Pro or a Luxe. I don't know how anyone else's could be 1/2" taller. My Primo's panel over the front filter is 4.5" x 9.25" (235mm x 114mm)



Edit:
The opening itself that panel sits in front of is 10" x 5.25" (254mm x 133mm)


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *PureBlackFire*
> 
> ^ the width of that metal plate is the same, but the one on the Primo is ~ half an inch taller.
> 
> 
> 
> I took those measurements from a Primo. I don't have a Pro or a Luxe. I don't know how anyone else's could be 1/2" taller. My Primo's panel over the front filter is 4.5" x 9.25" (235mm x 114mm)
> 
> 
> 
> Edit:
> The opening itself that panel sits in front of is 10" x 5.25" (254mm x 133mm)
Click to expand...

sorry if I'm being confusing, but the metal plate you measured at 9.25" on the Primo, the one on the Luxe is smaller at 8.8" tall.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Oh I see. I misunderstood you. All good.


----------



## tatmMRKIV

lol u have one of these to unicron?


----------



## viperguy212

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PureBlackFire*
> 
> sorry if I'm being confusing, but the metal plate you measured at 9.25" on the Primo, the one on the Luxe is smaller at 8.8" tall.


Thanks guys, appreciate the measurements.


----------



## seeky

On my luxe I am hearing loud static/hiss over my audio when using the headphone jack on the case, I also hear the same hiss which is quieter from the motherboard headphone jack .. Audio is working fine through my monitor speakers, and also through usb headphones, but when I connect headphones or apple earphones to the headphone jack I hear hiss. I have a Z97-A mobo. Any idea what the problem might be?


----------



## tatmMRKIV

grounding issue off some sort.


----------



## dikkiedirk

I read somewhere, or heard that you can attach 11 fans to the pwm hub in a enthoo primo but I only see 6 fan headers on the hub. Do I need splitters of some kind? Phanteks really could and should have included some in that big carton







. Or do you guys simply attach the fans on the rad to the motherboard?

BTW, I have mounted an Alphacool UT60 in the roof of the case and Alpacool fans on top of it in pull. The fins of the fans (no pun intended) seem to touch the metal parts of the case. What would be an easy fix for this? Adding some washers?


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dikkiedirk*
> 
> I read somewhere, or heard that you can attach 11 fans to the pwm hub in a enthoo primo but I only see 6 fan headers on the hub. Do I need splitters of some kind? Phanteks really could and should have included some in that big carton
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Or do you guys simply attach the fans on the rad to the motherboard?
> 
> BTW, I have mounted an Alphacool UT60 in the roof of the case and Alpacool fans on top of it in pull. The fins of the fans (no pun intended) seem to touch the metal parts of the case. What would be an easy fix for this? Adding some washers?


You can use two way splitters on ports 2-6, but not on port one.

And, yes, washers or vibration pads should take care of the fan issue.


----------



## dikkiedirk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> You can use two way splitters on ports 2-6, but not on port one.
> 
> And, yes, washers or vibration pads should take care of the fan issue.


Where do you get those splitters?

What kind of vibration pads do you mean?

I plan to run thos fans full speed, I might as well put then on a simple powerboard with a molex in and 3 fan headers, if available in the Netherlands.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dikkiedirk*
> 
> Where do you get those splitters?
> 
> What kind of vibration pads do you mean?
> 
> I plan to run thos fans full speed, I might as well put then on a simple powerboard with a molex in and 3 fan headers, if available in the Netherlands.


https://www.google.com/search?q=3-pin+fan+splitter&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8


----------



## Reaper28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trestles126*
> 
> Couple of pics of mine for reference 240 bottom 240 ek 68mm up top ekd5 res mounted to far right of MoBo tray aquatube resivor in drive bay for looks in the window. Hard acrylic tubing thing runs cool gtx 780ti n 4790k 4.0g at 4.4 playing cod advanced warfare full everything at 50c highest temp and 38c on gpu


68mm up top? are you running fanless?


----------



## Trestles126

No fans are up above so radiator chasi then fans up in the Luxs top space above metal chasi
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Reaper28*
> 
> 68mm up top? are you running fanless?


----------



## Reaper28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trestles126*
> 
> No fans are up above so radiator chasi then fans up in the Luxs top space above metal chasi


I figured, do you think if the rad was 5-6mm thinner fans would fit?. Really like the look of the rig, nice work


----------



## Reaper28

I have a few questions about the Pro & Luxe, I've asked a few people but they weren't sure and I want to know before I go and buy the case. I'll keep it short as possible.

Can a 420mm 45/60 rad fit in the Luxe without removing the side drive cover / wall, also curious about the Pro..

What is the measurement in the Pro from the mobo tray to the drive cover? I saw 125mm and I want to fit a Nemesis rad which is 133mm and don't want to remove the drive cover if I don't have to, think it looks better with it on

I really want to stick a Nemesis rad which is 56mm thick in the pro but I know it won't fit, depending on the board. I assume a 45mm XT will be alright? mobo is a ROG Hero, I assume a 45mm will be 1-2c difference in temps compared to a 55/60mm

Picture posted about what I call the "drive cover / door"



http://imgur.com/x9PbbOk


Thanks everyone


----------



## Trestles126

My mobo is the hero v2 I have the ek 67mm rad u can see the space in my pics that's with a luxe though and the fans above the chasi
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Reaper28*
> 
> I have a few questions about the Pro & Luxe, I've asked a few people but they weren't sure and I want to know before I go and buy the case. I'll keep it short as possible.
> 
> Can a 420mm 45/60 rad fit in the Luxe without removing the side drive cover / wall, also curious about the Pro..
> 
> What is the measurement in the Pro from the mobo tray to the drive cover? I saw 125mm and I want to fit a Nemesis rad which is 133mm and don't want to remove the drive cover if I don't have to, think it looks better with it on
> 
> I really want to stick a Nemesis rad which is 56mm thick in the pro but I know it won't fit, depending on the board. I assume a 45mm XT will be alright? mobo is a ROG Hero, I assume a 45mm will be 1-2c difference in temps compared to a 55/60mm
> 
> Picture posted about what I call the "drive cover / door"
> 
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/x9PbbOk
> 
> 
> Thanks everyone


----------



## Trestles126

Well fans are 25mm so it would be tight
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Reaper28*
> 
> I figured, do you think if the rad was 5-6mm thinner fans would fit?. Really like the look of the rig, nice work


----------



## Reaper28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trestles126*
> 
> My mobo is the hero v2 I have the ek 67mm rad u can see the space in my pics that's with a luxe though and the fans above the chasi


That's the only reason why I'm considering the Luxe, something about the Pro though keeps sucking me in.. I love the front panel lol


----------



## LegoFarmer

Just got the luxe, the reservoir bracket would be better if it were shorter. What do you guys recommend to cut it?


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LegoFarmer*
> 
> Just got the luxe, the reservoir bracket would be better if it were shorter. What do you guys recommend to cut it?


why?


----------



## viperguy212

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Reaper28*
> 
> That's the only reason why I'm considering the Luxe, something about the Pro though keeps sucking me in.. I love the front panel lol


I am facing the EXACT same dilemma. Love everything about the Luxe...except that front panel.

Primo front panels dont fit the luxe either.


----------



## michaelius

Before You connect 11 fans remember that all of them will be running at the same speed defined in % of fan rotation. So ideally they need to be same model or at least have similar starting voltage.

That's one thing I painfully learned on Evolve when I connected mismatch of Phanteks 140mm, Phanteks 200mm and 2 Corsairs SP 120mm to hub


----------



## LegoFarmer

It's just the way my pump is. The bracket hangs down from the drive cages about an inch and a half or so, I just need something to cut that part off because I'm not using it. It is in the way of the tubing.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Reaper28*
> 
> That's the only reason why I'm considering the Luxe, something about the Pro though keeps sucking me in.. I love the front panel lol


me to that's why I went with the Pro







I'm considering modifying the top of the case with an acrylic box to house radiators etc...and still use the top and power button..and the hdd light...


----------



## Jugurnot

Hey there. I just bought the Enthoo Pro but I am having doubts on whether or not my RX360 will fit up top with a set of fans. Couldn't find a post about specific measurements, can anyone tell/show me if it is possible?

EDIT: I think I found my answer...
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> No. I will tell you the Pro will not fit anything larger than the 45mm thick rad and one set of fans. Of course you can offset it and it will work, however all the mounting points won't line up. As for the front, it is actually possible to fit a 360 up front but you will loose the 5.25" bays. This will require what would normally be modification except the Pro is designed with all screws - no need to really mod, just unscrew the base of the 5.25 bays.
> 
> This is something I may consider doing in the future. Might consider going with a monster 360 for the front and mounting the pump on the bottom.


But it will fit up front I see. Which is awesome because I have a thinner rad for the top.


----------



## greg1184

I ordered 3 120sp phanteks fans for my 360 radiator to go with my case. These fans look really solid and I love their looks.


----------



## Reaper28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *viperguy212*
> 
> I am facing the EXACT same dilemma. Love everything about the Luxe...except that front panel.
> 
> Primo front panels dont fit the luxe either.


I just like the open front panel design, something about cases like that always appeal to me, I'm still deciding on the case but I will probably lean towards the Luxe so I can shove a full 360 or even a 420 in the roof. I wish Phanteks would have used the same design at least on the top panels being able to fit fans on the outside of the case then I would definitely go for the Pro


----------



## welshy46

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Reaper28*
> 
> I just like the open front panel design, something about cases like that always appeal to me, I'm still deciding on the case but I will probably lean towards the Luxe so I can shove a full 360 or even a 420 in the roof. I wish Phanteks would have used the same design at least on the top panels being able to fit fans on the outside of the case then I would definitely go for the Pro


The front panel does look a little bland. On yours







You could always mod it to your taste. MNPCtech also do a ready to fit fan grill it says for the Primo but it looks like it would fit the Luxe.


----------



## viperguy212

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *welshy46*
> 
> The front panel does look a little bland. On yours
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You could always mod it to your taste. MNPCtech also do a ready to fit fan grill it says for the Primo but it looks like it would fit the Luxe.


Ahh I wish, I asked before on the last page or so. Looks like the Primo's panel is about an inch or so longer. Ones like 8.4 and the other 9.3 or something like that.


----------



## doyll

I don't see that much difference in how the front of Primo is from Luxe .. but Pro looks different.
Primo is obviously much taller .. it is a bigger case. But otherwise not much difference in general appearance.


----------



## welshy46

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *viperguy212*
> 
> Ahh I wish, I asked before on the last page or so. Looks like the Primo's panel is about an inch or so longer. Ones like 8.4 and the other 9.3 or something like that.


The Luxe is 248mm or about 9 3/4" in height. Their other acrylic grills will fit, all I did was take off the plate and mount the grill to the 4 posts with double sided foam tape. Mine was already slightly cut down from a previous build so some light dremeling may be required.







you could also do this mod to the Pro. Just fix 4x 10mm plastic spacers to the the mesh then the grill on them.

Imho the primo is the best looking value for money case in the Phanteks range. i ended up with the luxe to save money, not on the case but on the cost of all the shiny things you can shoe horn into the voluminous interior.

I'm tempted to get the mini XL and put my ATX build in it. does anyone know if Phanteks has released this case yet. I can't find anyone selling it.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *welshy46*
> 
> I'm tempted to get the mini XL and put my ATX build in it. does anyone know if Phanteks has released this case yet. I can't find anyone selling it.


It's not been released yet and not sure when it will be. It was announced at the same time as the Evolv so shouldn't be too much longer. I didn't think it was going to fit an ATX mobo though. Their video shows the main, lower mobo is uATX compatible and the optional second mobo location is ITX.

See here:


----------



## viperguy212

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *welshy46*
> 
> The Luxe is 248mm or about 9 3/4" in height. Their other acrylic grills will fit, all I did was take off the plate and mount the grill to the 4 posts with double sided foam tape. Mine was already slightly cut down from a previous build so some light dremeling may be required.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> you could also do this mod to the Pro. Just fix 4x 10mm plastic spacers to the the mesh then the grill on them.
> 
> Imho the primo is the best looking value for money case in the Phanteks range. i ended up with the luxe to save money, not on the case but on the cost of all the shiny things you can shoe horn into the voluminous interior.
> 
> I'm tempted to get the mini XL and put my ATX build in it. does anyone know if Phanteks has released this case yet. I can't find anyone selling it.


Thats awesome to hear thanks. Looks like I'll be going slotted









http://mnpctech.com/pc-computer-alphacool-ek-bitspower-hardwarelabs-heatkiller-liquid-cooling/240-pc-radiator-grills/mnpctech-240-2x120mm-radiator-grills.html


----------



## greg1184

I have to say that ASUS deluxe matches this case very well. I am loving the flexibility I am having with this case. Its so easy to keep cables organized.

I moved the stock 140 to the bottom... eventually I will put a 280 rad on the bottom. I am putting my current EX360 on the top. I have 3 matching Phanteks 120SP on its way.


----------



## fredocini

I just pulled the trigger on the Enthoo Luxe from newegg.ca. I am very excited, and will post pics once it arrives! Thanks for the input everybody.









Does anyone have experience with the PWM Fan Hub on the Luxe? I was thinking about using a fan splitter for a couple CPU fans. Is that going to short out one of the hub ports or is it safe?


----------



## welshy46

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fredocini*
> 
> I just pulled the trigger on the Enthoo Luxe from newegg.ca. I am very excited, and will post pics once it arrives! Thanks for the input everybody.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Does anyone have experience with the PWM Fan Hub on the Luxe? I was thinking about using a fan splitter for a couple CPU fans. Is that going to short out one of the hub ports or is it safe?


Top trigger action sir.







The PWM hub can handle up to 11 3-pin/4-pin fans using splitter cables. There's a full run down on how the hub works on page 1 of thread to familiarise yourself with how they work. you can also download a Pdf of the manual from here
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> It's not been released yet and not sure when it will be. It was announced at the same time as the Evolv so shouldn't be too much longer. I didn't think it was going to fit an ATX mobo though. Their video shows the main, lower mobo is uATX compatible and the optional second mobo location is ITX.
> 
> See here:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thats awesome to hear thanks. Looks like I'll be going slotted
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You could just remove the mesh behind the plate and replace that with a piece of modding mesh. the front panel is easily taken apart with a screwdriver like most of the case, top job Phanteks


----------



## Reaper28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *greg1184*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have to say that ASUS deluxe matches this case very well. I am loving the flexibility I am having with this case. Its so easy to keep cables organized.
> 
> I moved the stock 140 to the bottom... eventually I will put a 280 rad on the bottom. I am putting my current EX360 on the top. I have 3 matching Phanteks 120SP on its way.


I like the ram color, really stands out from the board

@fredocini, plan on watercooling it?..looking forward to some pics


----------



## The Redtide

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *greg1184*
> 
> ... I am loving the flexibility I am having with this case. Its so easy to keep cables organized.


True if you are ACing or "light" internal WCing. Do a "heavy" internal WCing build and cable management becomes very interesting and a bit of a challange.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The Redtide*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *greg1184*
> 
> ... I am loving the flexibility I am having with this case. Its so easy to keep cables organized.
> 
> 
> 
> True if you are ACing or "light" internal WCing. Do a "heavy" internal WCing build and cable management becomes very interesting and a bit of a challange.
Click to expand...

I'm curious as to what, if any, cases made by anyone have better cable management features than the Enthoo Primo in your opinion?

I've been through dozens of cases, many costing a lot more than the Primo, and I can't think of anything - not a single word - nice to say about the cable management on _any_ of them _except_ for the Primo which made organizing the cables ridiculously easy imho. I couldn't imagine any improvements.


----------



## The Redtide

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> I'm curious as to what, if any, cases made by anyone have better cable management features than the Enthoo Primo in your opinion?
> 
> I've been through dozens of cases, many costing a lot more than the Primo, and I can't think of anything - not a single word - nice to say about the cable management on _any_ of them _except_ for the Primo which made organizing the cables ridiculously easy imho. I couldn't imagine any improvements.


I wasn't commenting on the Primo's cable management features at all. It's an excellent case and I don't think there is much wiggle room in which the cable management could be improved upon either. I too researched many cases before deciding on the Primo and didn't find any that were as well featured and as flexible. What I said can actually be applied to virtually all cases out there, not just the Primo. IMO a typical build usually consists of an upper/lower radiator (in push or pull only), pump, reservoir and single GPU. For the Primo this is a walk in the park, but that can be said for others also. A caveat of " ... if you don't want your cable management to look like an explosion occurred." would have made it clearer perhaps.


----------



## greg1184

So I got the primochill reservoir. It is very nice looking. The frost effect is exactly like I was looking for. The 240 is pretty big, much bigger than I expected. It is longer top-to-bottom than the provided drilled holes on the reservoir bracket. I thought to myself, That's fine I can mount the top screws.

One problem..... the distance between screw holes of the reservoir are just SLIGHTLY wider than the provided holes of the reservoir bracket. Now that is annoying. I can see a portion of both screw holes through the drilled holes when I superimpose the two things together. I could get the additional mount that primochill provides, but I am concerned that it will still not fit.

Anyone here had experience with this res?

Edit: I am going to try to use double sided tape to mount the res onto the bracket.


----------



## sugalumps

Does the airflow suffer on the luxe because of that extra little front panel? I really dont like the look of it, I prefer the pro's front panel, but I want the luxes build quality/features it's so frustrating that they added a random bit in the front that block the unrestricted air intake that the pro has.

Will changing the 200mm to two 140mms like a pair of noctuas make a good bit of difference to airflow? I would be changing them in anyway because of noise reduction.

Because it's the 760t vs the luxe, they both are about the same pros and cons wise imo with the luxe having much better build quality and the black version being £35 cheaper than the white 760t, and the 760t being probably my favourite case aesthetic wise + the huge unrestricted front intake.


----------



## welshy46

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *greg1184*
> 
> So I got the primochill reservoir. It is very nice looking. The frost effect is exactly like I was looking for. The 240 is pretty big, much bigger than I expected. It is longer top-to-bottom than the provided drilled holes on the reservoir bracket. I thought to myself, That's fine I can mount the top screws.
> 
> One problem..... the distance between screw holes of the reservoir are just SLIGHTLY wider than the provided holes of the reservoir bracket. Now that is annoying. I can see a portion of both screw holes through the drilled holes when I superimpose the two things together. I could get the additional mount that primochill provides, but I am concerned that it will still not fit.
> 
> Anyone here had experience with this res?
> 
> Edit: I am going to try to use double sided tape to mount the res onto the bracket.


I've got one of these. I assume you mean the Primochill CTR phase II tube res. First piece of advice would be don't buy one they're bobbins. If you're hell bent on putting a bomb in your rig good luck. The compression rings on each end must be screwed on using the arms of Garth to make sure the pressure build up doesn't force them apart. before you fit it into your rig, put two fittings in each end in opposing G1/4 holes so you can get a better grip and tighten them for all your worth.

Loop while leak testing, everything looks swell.


a couple of days later, i only noticed the res coming apart on the photo. Panic ensued. Luckily the bottom of the res was touching the PSU cover and couldn't go any further.


Saying all that I'm still using mine, just with the addition of superglue in the channel around the end caps where the tube sits. Also if you want to shorten the res it can be cut down as it doesn't have threads to fasten the end caps like non exploding res' do.


----------



## welshy46

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *viperguy212*
> 
> Thats awesome to hear thanks. Looks like I'll be going slotted
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For some reason this was missing from the post I quoted you in yesterday. I will try again. instead of messing about drilling holes to mount a fan grill. you can just remove the dished metal grill and face plate, then replace them with a piece of 1mm Aluminium modders mesh of whatever style you prefer. As the front bezel is held together with screws and clips you won't need to cut or drill the bezel and can always change it back to standard or to a different mesh with no messing. this might also help in your desicion to buy the superior Luxe @sugalumps
> 
> MNPCtech slotted mesh
> 
> Just cut the mesh to sit in the rebate of the original and put the bezel back together.


----------



## maskymus

Here is my attempt of Enthoo Primo front grill (not finished yet) with Demciflex filter underneath. For my taste it looks completely different without those plastic parts holding the original grill and once you mod it, you won't change it back. It's easy to cut and you don't need to use any glue as the panel just screws.


Spoiler: photo


----------



## Reaper28

Is anybody running a 420 in the roof of a Pro or Luxe?..so far I've only seen the Primo. Also would anyone mind doing 1 or 2 quick measurements for me? I just want to find out what the total space is from the mobo tray to the side wall / drive cover so see how wide of a rad I can fit before I need to remove it. I've asked a few other people but nobody it willing to help lol


----------



## welshy46

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *maskymus*
> 
> Here is my attempt of Enthoo Primo front grill (not finished yet) with Demciflex filter underneath. For my taste it looks completely different without those plastic parts holding the original grill and once you mod it, you won't change it back. It's easy to cut and you don't need to use any glue as the panel just screws.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: photo


I thought I'd take my own advice and do the mod myself. need to cut anther piece for the drive bay hole and get some decent dust filter material. the grill front goes in without cutting anything, but you're right about it looking better if you cut the plastic that holds the spacers for original. Overall I like it, and it took less time to do them a sausage& bacon sandwich and a cup of tea. Lovely jubbly


----------



## welshy46

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Reaper28*
> 
> Is anybody running a 420 in the roof of a Pro or Luxe?..so far I've only seen the Primo. Also would anyone mind doing 1 or 2 quick measurements for me? I just want to find out what the total space is from the mobo tray to the side wall / drive cover so see how wide of a rad I can fit before I need to remove it. I've asked a few other people but nobody it willing to help lol


You can fit a 420mm x 45mm in the roof and push/pull fans with a little work in the Luxe. To do it you will probably need to cut out the top drive bay panel on the window side and mount the 140mm wide rad on the 120mm mounting holes on the right side and make your own rad mount holes for the left(window) side. That's how I had to fit a 280mm rad up there to clear obstructions on the top of the motherboard, 8-pin ATX and VRM cooler


----------



## semitope

Finally got my case. I didn't like that I had to install the fans from the inside rather than putting them on cage first. Was a hassle but probably would have been avoided if I read the manual more than I did.

my Cpu power cable barely made it. I was expecting there was an extension cable inside but nah.

The front IO cover would have been better if it slid in to be more partially hidden. Not ideal if you have your case on the ground as it blocks the ports

Liked how easily the front and top come off, though not sure if that will eventually affect how well they stay on. comes off nice, snaps on nice unlike other cases that take tons of force and make tons of noise.

My large window came scratched by the box as usual. THis is easily the biggest mistake on the case. I saw a ~$50 case recently that had both inside and out of the window covered so why did these guys cover the outside alone then drop in something so loosely secured that it would get loose?

Got rid of a problem I was having with the old scout case. No more ringing from my headphones when I have the amplifier plugged in to charge by USB.
.
I've put an intake fan on the top covered with extra dust filter and put paper on either side to prevent dust settling through the vents when PC off.

Temps are better with 2 drive cage fans (lower arctic f12 and stock hyper evo 212 fan above it) and everything running off the motherboard except the top fan that's using the hub. Rather have asus q fan doing its work than everything running off the same header. Mobo is z87 gryphon.

overall great

_I just got the fan header to work fine with a case fan header. I don't need it to do pwm so just ditched the sata connector and put 2 fans on it. Before I had it on the CPU_OPT header and the fan I had on it was going full speed with the sata connected and without it connected. Not sure whats up there. I connected the second cpu fan to CPU_OPT (was using splitter before) and its running fine. Now Q-fan controls the speed of the fans on the header. System pretty quiet._


----------



## Reaper28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *welshy46*
> 
> You can fit a 420mm x 45mm in the roof and push/pull fans with a little work in the Luxe. To do it you will probably need to cut out the top drive bay panel on the window side and mount the 140mm wide rad on the 120mm mounting holes on the right side and make your own rad mount holes for the left(window) side. That's how I had to fit a 280mm rad up there to clear obstructions on the top of the motherboard, 8-pin ATX and VRM cooler


Actually I never thought of that, drilling my own holes to possibly clear my mobo. That's one thing that I really want is to keep the drive bay cover on to cover the bottom rad to me it just looks more neat. You wouldn't happen to know how wide of a rad can fit before you hit that would you?

This was my plan with either the Luxe or the Pro, it pretty much just comes down to how wide of a rad I can fit / want without having to remove the drive cover



http://imgur.com/bpkO309

 - Pic


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Can't believe I'm apparently in the minority but the front filter cover for the Primo (and likewise for the Luxe) is my favorite aesthetic feature about the case, especially with the led illuminating behind it. It totally makes the case what it is imho, even though it must inhibit airflow somewhat. I wouldn't have even bought my Primo if it had a front filter opening like the Pro has, not even if it was substantially marked down in price (not even for less than half price). The MNPCTech-style grill mods to it just look, well, pretty tacky to my eyes, at least compared to the original Phanteks design. But that's just me I guess. To each their own.


----------



## welshy46

Indeed each to their own @Unicr0nhunter I personally like the look of the front bezel, but it's just a bit too austere for me. After all the other mods on mine I needed to jazz up the front and create more airflow for my 360mm rad in the front which pokes up into the drive bay.

Job done I think, well for now anyway.


----------



## welshy46

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Reaper28*
> 
> Actually I never thought of that, drilling my own holes to possibly clear my mobo. That's one thing that I really want is to keep the drive bay cover on to cover the bottom rad to me it just looks more neat. You wouldn't happen to know how wide of a rad can fit before you hit that would you?
> 
> This was my plan with either the Luxe or the Pro, it pretty much just comes down to how wide of a rad I can fit / want without having to remove the drive cover
> 
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/bpkO309
> 
> - Pic


If you don't want to chop into your case then I'd suggest a 360mm x 45mm rad and a 240mm in the front will cool just about anything you can shove in the case with ease. The drive bay was an early casualty in my build, so i don't have a measurement. but you would need to cut out the top corner of the drive bay to fit a 420mm and fans. You could fit just the 45mm rad on the 140mm mounting holes and it will miss all but the most oversized VRM/MOSFET coolers. Then just have 3 x 140mm fans in the Luxes roof space.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Can't believe I'm apparently in the minority but the front filter cover for the Primo (and likewise for the Luxe) is my favorite aesthetic feature about the case, especially with the led illuminating behind it. It totally makes the case what it is imho, even though it must inhibit airflow somewhat. I wouldn't have even bought my Primo if it had a front filter opening like the Pro has, not even if it was substantially marked down in price (not even for less than half price). The MNPCTech-style grill mods to it just look, well, pretty tacky to my eyes, at least compared to the original Phanteks design. But that's just me I guess. To each their own.


well I have a different reason for disliking the front panel on the two you like and that is because I installed cabinets for almost 10 years and in that time I grew quite unfond of the raised panel door look...to me that design reminds me of those little 9 inch cabinets people would put in that you literally can put almost nothing in just to take up space...and I like the airflow the pro grill provides but I really need to get on making a filter for the edges....I noticed on this last teardown it's letting in a lot of dust


----------



## Reaper28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *welshy46*
> 
> If you don't want to chop into your case then I'd suggest a 360mm x 45mm rad and a 240mm in the front will cool just about anything you can shove in the case with ease. The drive bay was an early casualty in my build, so i don't have a measurement. but you would need to cut out the top corner of the drive bay to fit a 420mm and fans. You could fit just the 45mm rad on the 140mm mounting holes and it will miss all but the most oversized VRM/MOSFET coolers. Then just have 3 x 140mm fans in the Luxes roof space.


I remember seeing someone cut the edge of a fan off trying to stick a 420 in a Primo and the top ports of the rad touched the edge of the case (alpha rad). Anyways thanks for the info, cleared some stuff up I was curious about. I might just buy the Luxe so I can fit a thicker rad in it without issue


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Reaper28*
> 
> I remember seeing someone cut the edge of a fan off trying to stick a 420 in a *Primo* and the top ports of the rad touched the edge of the case (alpha rad). Anyways thanks for the info, cleared some stuff up I was curious about. I might just buy the Luxe so I can fit a thicker rad in it without issue


I suspect you might have meant to write 'Pro' instead of 'Primo'. The Primo fits a 420 or a 480 in the top without a problem, in push-pull even.


----------



## Reaper28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> I suspect you might have meant to write 'Pro' instead of 'Primo'. The Primo fits a 420 or a 480 in the top without a problem, in push-pull even.


I think it was the Primo, I remember the side mounted PSU cover and a bottom rad, he may have had something in the optical bays obstructing the rad not sure what I just remember the top of the case.


----------



## theoblivinator

I'm about halfway through my new X99 build in my new white Luxe. Here are a few pictures showing off what I have done. I suspect I will be doing a full tour of the case and build when it is completely finished. Probably next weekend when I have the time to finish it. I doubt I'll have it finished tonight unless I stay up way past my bed time.


Spoiler: DOPE


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Reaper28*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> I suspect you might have meant to write 'Pro' instead of 'Primo'. The Primo fits a 420 or a 480 in the top without a problem, in push-pull even.
> 
> 
> 
> I think it was the Primo, I remember the side mounted PSU cover and a bottom rad, he may have had something in the optical bays obstructing the rad not sure what I just remember the top of the case.
Click to expand...

Odd, but in any case the Primo has a *LOT* more room for a 420 rad in the top than the Luxe or Pro does. It has 70mm space from the top of the mobo to the top of the chassis, compared to the Pro & Luxe's 65mm, and it also has the extra space for a layer of fans on top of the chassis under the filter cover like the Luxe does, but the Primo also has ~43mm of offset clearance for a 140mm-series rad (53mm offset for a 120mm-series rad) that will allow you to run a 280/420 rad as thick as you want, in push-pull even, just as long as you don't have anything taller than 43mm along the top of the mobo. You can put an 85mm thick 420 or 480 Monsta with fans in push-pull in the top of the Primo without modding anything. With the Luxe and the Pro there is no offset for a 140mm-series rad up top unless you mod the top and even then the case isn't wide enough to allow for as much offset as the Primo has.

Even if you don't want to rely on the offset clearance to let a rad & fans overhang the mobo the 70mm of room up top in the Primo will allow you to easily fit a 45mm thick 420 or 480 in the top with fans in push pull without overhanging the mobo at all so it would fit with any mobo with any height ram or heatsinks & there'd be no reason to have to cut the edge off of a fan or anything to make it fit. You sure can't say that about the Pro or Luxe.


----------



## Reaper28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Odd, but in any case the Primo has a *LOT* more room for a 420 rad in the top than the Luxe or Pro does. It has 70mm space from the top of the mobo to the top of the chassis, compared to the Pro & Luxe's 65mm, and it also has the extra space for a layer of fans on top of the chassis under the filter cover like the Luxe does, but the Primo also has ~43mm of offset clearance for a 140mm-series rad (153mm offset for a 120mm-series rad) that will allow you to run a 280/420 rad as thick as you want, in push-pull even, just as long as you don't have anything taller than 43mm along the top of the mobo. You can put an 85mm thick 420 or 480 Monsta with fans in push-pull in the top of the Primo without modding anything. With the Luxe and the Pro there is no offset for a 140mm-series rad up top unless you mod the top and even then the case isn't wide enough to allow for as much offset as the Primo has.


Yeah kind of disappointed in the rad space for the Pro, if you could mount fans outside the case under a cover I would completely buy it, but being limited to a 45 or even a 30mm rad depending on a mobo kind of sucks to me. Seen as you know some of the measurements you wouldn't happen to know how much space there is from the mobo tray to the drive cover would you? I want to stick a Nemesis rad in the bottom without having to remove it for esthetic reasons but its 133mm wide and I'm not sure if it will fit in the Luxe specifically or the Pro


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

I've seen pics where someone just took the top filter out of the Pro and mounted their fans on the top outside of the case with filtered grills on the fans just so they could fit a thicker 420 rad up top & it didn't look too bad. I kind of liked the look of it.


----------



## Reaper28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> I've seen pics where someone just took the top filter out of the Pro and mounted their fans on the top outside of the case with filtered grills on the fans just so they could fit a thicker 420 rad up top & it didn't look too bad. I kind of liked the look of it.


You're starting to remind me of the Koolance rad shroud and if it would work lol


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Probably work but at more than $40 for thier triple 140 shroud it would have made a lot more sense just to buy a Luxe in the first place and gotten all the other extra benefits that comes with it also (RGB LED lighting , aluminum top/front instead of plastic, extra ssd bracket, etc, and room for the extra layer of fans on top) and I suspect most would think it would look a lot better at that.


----------



## Reaper28

That's pretty much what I'm considering is the Luxe, I really like the front of the Pro but the rad support is more of a trade off for me to get it


----------



## greg1184

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *welshy46*
> 
> I've got one of these. I assume you mean the Primochill CTR phase II tube res. First piece of advice would be don't buy one they're bobbins. If you're hell bent on putting a bomb in your rig good luck. The compression rings on each end must be screwed on using the arms of Garth to make sure the pressure build up doesn't force them apart. before you fit it into your rig, put two fittings in each end in opposing G1/4 holes so you can get a better grip and tighten them for all your worth.
> 
> Loop while leak testing, everything looks swell.
> 
> 
> a couple of days later, i only noticed the res coming apart on the photo. Panic ensued. Luckily the bottom of the res was touching the PSU cover and couldn't go any further.
> 
> 
> Saying all that I'm still using mine, just with the addition of superglue in the channel around the end caps where the tube sits. Also if you want to shorten the res it can be cut down as it doesn't have threads to fasten the end caps like non exploding res' do.


Yeah I ended up ordering the bitspower water tank z which does fit. Didn't want to reinvent the wheel.


----------



## theoblivinator

Well tonight I finished pluming my new X99 build housed in the Enthoo Luxe. I still need to wire up all the power cords, fans, temperature sensors, and the pump. Then it's a matter of filling it up and testing for leaks before she actually gets to be powered on. Have to save that for next weekend.

Here are a few more pictures I snapped of the finished water lines.


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *greg1184*
> 
> So I got the primochill reservoir. It is very nice looking. The frost effect is exactly like I was looking for. The 240 is pretty big, much bigger than I expected. It is longer top-to-bottom than the provided drilled holes on the reservoir bracket. I thought to myself, That's fine I can mount the top screws.
> 
> One problem..... the distance between screw holes of the reservoir are just SLIGHTLY wider than the provided holes of the reservoir bracket. Now that is annoying. I can see a portion of both screw holes through the drilled holes when I superimpose the two things together. I could get the additional mount that primochill provides, but I am concerned that it will still not fit.
> 
> Anyone here had experience with this res?
> 
> Edit: I am going to try to use double sided tape to mount the res onto the bracket.


I took a screw and put it next to a drill but found the right size and made my own holes takes a few minutes and buy rubber washers for cheap to have no noise vibrating


----------



## Reaper28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *theoblivinator*
> 
> Well tonight I finished pluming my new X99 build housed in the Enthoo Luxe. I still need to wire up all the power cords, fans, temperature sensors, and the pump. Then it's a matter of filling it up and testing for leaks before she actually gets to be powered on. Have to save that for next weekend.
> 
> Here are a few more pictures I snapped of the finished water lines.


Impressive







, only running the one rad?


----------



## waveaddict

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *theoblivinator*
> 
> Well tonight I finished pluming my new X99 build housed in the Enthoo Luxe. I still need to wire up all the power cords, fans, temperature sensors, and the pump. Then it's a matter of filling it up and testing for leaks before she actually gets to be powered on. Have to save that for next weekend.
> 
> Here are a few more pictures I snapped of the finished water lines.
> 
> Congrats on your build,don't see a drain port/valve.Do you plan on putting one in?Also,just my 2 cents,but holy 90.Did you plan on all those 90's or was bending out of the question?
> I counted like 14 crystal link 90's


----------



## theoblivinator

There is a 420 in the top and a 240 in the front. I planned all the 90 degree fittings beforehand because I like the look of them over bent acrylic tubes. Although my pre-measurements didn't quite go as planned, I still fit everything in there and it still looks great to me.


----------



## shanker

Got my Luxe and had to hack a bit off the HDD cage to get my 420 in there. I have Monsoon fittings on the way then I'll swap everything over.

My question is while using the Bitspower 150MM res in the Luxe bracket and a Swiftech MCP50X pump at the base can I suspend it off the res or should I affix it to the PSU cover somehow?


----------



## greg1184

I ended up getting the Bitspower resovoir because the PrimoChill did not fit properly without having to drill holes. IMO it looks sharper anyway and fits my system like a glove:



I also got some matching Phanteks fans for the radiator:




I recycled the XSPC fans and put them in the "pull" position of the radiator. I installed the radiator.





I am going to set up the water cooling next. Eventually I will get a 2nd 780 ti, a 280 radiator for the bottom, and water-cool the cards, but that is alot of cash.









Overall, I love how easy this case is to work with. Much better than the HAF-X.


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shanker*
> 
> Got my Luxe and had to hack a bit off the HDD cage to get my 420 in there. I have Monsoon fittings on the way then I'll swap everything over.
> 
> My question is while using the Bitspower 150MM res in the Luxe bracket and a Swiftech MCP50X pump at the base can I suspend it off the res or should I affix it to the PSU cover somehow?


Just one idea not saying it's the best but I counted my bitspower 150mm res to mcp50x pump using a small 1/4 x 1/4 rotary adapter. Than mounted the res to the hdd cages with rubber washers and it works great. No noise doesn't move around


----------



## OutlawII

Ordered a new power switch for my Primo phanteks support sent it out the day after i emailed them ! Awesome support


----------



## Reaper28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *theoblivinator*
> 
> There is a 420 in the top and a 240 in the front. I planned all the 90 degree fittings beforehand because I like the look of them over bent acrylic tubes. Although my pre-measurements didn't quite go as planned, I still fit everything in there and it still looks great to me.


What brand of rads are you using? they don't look familiar to me


----------



## sugalumps

My black luxe came today, such a gorgeous case. Though quality control is awful with these, someone went crazy with the glue gun all around the wires. Also and most importantly the cardboard box with the manual/tool box was not secured down and moved around the case in shipping. My window is scratched alot on the inside and there is a big mark next to the motherboard on the right








There is also paint faiding all around the windowed side panel inside sides.

Also one of the fans(the rear I am sure) is whistling and really bady, it's piercing my brain when I have everything turned down as it's so easy to hear.

All in I am pritty disapointed because of those issues at this premium price point(I know it's cheaper in comparison to similar cases but this is the first time I have spent this much on a case, usualy grab mid towers)

I would have rmad but scan are the biggest D bags on the planet when it comes to retailers and would say it was all my fault and send it back after me shipping it to them for £30+


----------



## VulgarDisplay88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sugalumps*
> 
> My black luxe came today, such a gorgeous case. Though quality control is awful with these, someone went crazy with the glue gun all around the wires. Also and most importantly the cardboard box with the manual/tool box was not secured down and moved around the case in shipping. My window is scratched alot on the inside and there is a big mark next to the motherboard on the right
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There is also paint faiding all around the windowed side panel inside sides.
> 
> Also one of the fans(the rear I am sure) is whistling and really bady, it's piercing my brain when I have everything turned down as it's so easy to hear.
> 
> All in I am pritty disapointed because of those issues at this premium price point(I know it's cheaper in comparison to similar cases but this is the first time I have spent this much on a case, usualy grab mid towers)
> 
> I would have rmad but scan are the biggest D bags on the planet when it comes to retailers and would say it was all my fault and send it back after me shipping it to them for £30+


Sorry to hear that, that sucks. I had an issue with my Evolv but managed to sort it out myself. I've had nothing but positive experiences with Scan.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Reaper28*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *theoblivinator*
> 
> There is a 420 in the top and a 240 in the front. I planned all the 90 degree fittings beforehand because I like the look of them over bent acrylic tubes. Although my pre-measurements didn't quite go as planned, I still fit everything in there and it still looks great to me.
> 
> 
> 
> What brand of rads are you using? they don't look familiar to me
Click to expand...

Looks like an Alphacool up top to me.


----------



## Gobzillax

Hello,

I built a computer a few months ago in a Phanteks Enthoo Primo and I saw the fan controller on the back and the molex cable coming from it. When I plugged it in and started the computer however, it made the fans run at max rpm.

I don't know much about fan controllers and this is a big issue for me as I can't control any of my fans.

Thank you


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gobzillax*
> 
> Hello,
> 
> I built a computer a few months ago in a Phanteks Enthoo Primo and I saw the fan controller on the back and the molex cable coming from it. When I plugged it in and started the computer however, it made the fans run at max rpm.
> 
> I don't know much about fan controllers and this is a big issue for me as I can't control any of my fans.
> 
> Thank you


The Phanteks fan hub controls 3-pin voltage controlled fans plugged into it using a PWM header on your mobo (this means the CPU_FAN header on most boards) and the PSU connector should only be plugged in when you have more fans connected to the hub than your mobo header is capable of controlling by itself (to ascertain this you would need to know the amp rating of your fans and the max amp rating of your mobo header). If your mobo header is not a PWM header, as is usually the case for all but the CPU header(s), then your fans will definitely spin to 100% when the PSU is connected.

Did your Primo hub not come with this sticker?



This from Doyll a while back may be helpful.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*


----------



## Jugurnot

Hey there, while we are on the 'oh-so-frequent' topic of the PWM hub, I have a question. I built my rig into a new enthoo pro case yesterday, I had the 4-pin header plugged into a non-true pwm header (I didnt care if fans were running at 100%) and the fans did not spin at all, sata plugged or un-plugged, did not turn. Could I have a bad pwm hub? Or do I need to go back and try on it on my actual cpu header?


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jugurnot*
> 
> Hey there, while we are on the 'oh-so-frequent' topic of the PWM hub, I have a question. I built my rig into a new enthoo pro case yesterday, I had the 4-pin header plugged into a non-true pwm header (I didnt care if fans were running at 100%) and the fans did not spin at all, sata plugged or un-plugged, did not turn. Could I have a bad pwm hub? Or do I need to go back and try on it on my actual cpu header?


Follow the instructions. Use it as it's supposed to be used. Then it might just work.


----------



## sugalumps

The luxe is just so gorgeous, you need to see it in person. I was not 100% from videos/pictures tbh, but now all the parts are in it and it's on my desk purring next to me I love it. The window is really dark though which I like, can only see my msi 980 led through it. Going to have to get one of those led phanteks strips for the bottom to really show it off.

Turns out it was not the phanteks stock fan that was whistling it's my h100i aswel as buzzing, cant wait to replace.

It's a really heavy case though, especialy coming from a plastic mid tower......


----------



## Gobzillax

Thanks so much
Merry Christmas


----------



## Reaper28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sugalumps*
> 
> The luxe is just so gorgeous, you need to see it in person. I was not 100% from videos/pictures tbh, but now all the parts are in it and it's on my desk purring next to me I love it. The window is really dark though which I like, can only see my msi 980 led through it. Going to have to get one of those led phanteks strips for the bottom to really show it off.
> 
> Turns out it was not the phanteks stock fan that was whistling it's my h100i aswel as buzzing, cant wait to replace.
> 
> It's a really heavy case though, especialy coming from a plastic mid tower......


Thanks..might be buying the Luxe tomorrow. Do you have any pics of your setup? curious to see it


----------



## Jugurnot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Follow the instructions. Use it as it's supposed to be used. Then it might just work.










Yes it works, sorry for my laziness. I was expecting fans @ 100% though if not controlled by true pwm, which was kinda what I wanted. I already have my cpu header being used by pwm fans, and was hoping the pwm hub would just act as a splitter for the rest of my 3-pin fans.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jugurnot*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yes it works, sorry for my laziness. I was expecting fans @ 100% though if not controlled by true pwm, which was kinda what I wanted. I already have my cpu header being used by pwm fans, and was hoping the pwm hub would just act as a splitter for the rest of my 3-pin fans.


No, it does not.
But a PWM splitter or hub for PWM fans will. They supply a constant 12v power to whatever fans are connected to them from the PSU.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Has anyone tried removing the rubber feet from the bottom of their Primo? I'm assuming they are glued into their recesses. I'm contemplating peeling them out of there but only if they'll come out without too much trouble without damaging the case and hopefully in one piece so I can reuse them. I would like to make some taller feet for the case (probably from some acetyl/delrin) that will fit in those recesses and have similar recesses in the bottom of them to replace the rubber feet into.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Has anyone tried removing the rubber feet from the bottom of their Primo? I'm assuming they are glued into their recesses. I'm contemplating peeling them out of there but only if they'll come out without too much trouble without damaging the case and hopefully in one piece so I can reuse them. I would like to make some taller feet for the case (probably from some acetyl/delrin) that will fit in those recesses and have similar recesses in the bottom of them to replace the rubber feet into.


I'm not sure on the feet but you just gave me an idea for a another place for rad mounting...taller feet with a rad installed underneath....


----------



## Darkness Sakura

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> I'm not sure on the feet but you just gave me an idea for a another place for rad mounting...taller feet with a rad installed underneath....


That actually sounds like a legitimate idea, I guess if you use the roller setup you might be able to change the wheels to something taller and use another rad under the bottom.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darkness Sakura*
> 
> That actually sounds like a legitimate idea, I guess if you use the roller setup you might be able to change the wheels to something taller and use another rad under the bottom.


well if I used rollers I would be I trouble as mine sits on my desk to the left but...I a was thinking about the feet that are on a lot of older chairs they are wide based half squares with plenty of stable base and would require a simple nut and bolt for each one and maybe a paint job they are already tall enough for a rad and fans and they are cast plastic and designed to hold a lot more weight than my case







I'm gonna look around because I'm sure I can find something better for that application but that was my first low modification idea


----------



## Trestles126

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Has anyone tried removing the rubber feet from the bottom of their Primo? I'm assuming they are glued into their recesses. I'm contemplating peeling them out of there but only if they'll come out without too much trouble without damaging the case and hopefully in one piece so I can reuse them. I would like to make some taller feet for the case (probably from some acetyl/delrin) that will fit in those recesses and have similar recesses in the bottom of them to replace the rubber feet into.


The luxe rubber feet just peel off they have like 3m style adhesive on the bottom.


----------



## Reaper28

I just ordered the Luxe after staring at my monitor for the last 20 minutes and decided to go for it. I wanted a case that can hold the big boy rad and now I will







. Hopefully I don't go through another nightmare like I did with the 750D..


----------



## connerfritz

Just ordered the Pro for my first PC build, can't wait for it to arrive!


----------



## kjrayo18

pretty much done just need the ram and I don't know which one to buy 1600 or a higher lol


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kjrayo18*
> 
> pretty much done just need the ram and I don't know which one to buy 1600 or a higher lol


I'd go with at least 2400 with lowest timings







....I kinda miss my psu cover...But it had to go for the 280 rad


----------



## Darkness Sakura

Unless you're doing something extreme with your computer that would require high clocks 2133 or so is perfectly fine and acceptable for RAM. I personally don't run anything past 1866 but thats me, you'll see smaller gains with 2400 or higher unless this is DDR4 you're referring to.


----------



## kjrayo18

I just want it for gaming so I can either go for 1600 or 2400 which is on special


----------



## Darkness Sakura

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kjrayo18*
> 
> I just want it for gaming so I can either go for 1600 or 2400 which is on special


Well if it's on special, assuming it's cheaper than everything else, just go with the 2400, but if there is something along the lines of 1866 to 2133 that is cheaper I'd go with that instead, but, again, if it's cheaper then I'd go with the 2400; can never have TOO much power.


----------



## SynerOnline

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *koniu777*
> 
> I was able to take some better pics today in daylight but still the mod looks a lot better in person.


Any chance you still have the measurments for the piece of acrylic/glass you used?
wanting to do this myself but struggling to figure out the proper measurements needed to get the fit like you did =]


----------



## koniu777

My acrylic window is 19.25" X 18.25"


----------



## SynerOnline

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *koniu777*
> 
> My acrylic window is 19.25" X 18.25"


Thanks you very much sir!
much apreciated


----------



## supr4

Hi guys!

I just finished my rig in my new case today, it's a Primo, here is one picture about it, tomorrow I'll have more pics. I love this primo case, I had a NZXT Switch 810, it's a good case, but the Primo it's a wet-dream But I still have to finish the cable management.

What do you think guys?
Sorry for my english, I'm hungarian.


----------



## Darkness Sakura

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *supr4*
> 
> Hi guys!
> 
> I just finished my rig in my new case today, it's a Primo, here is one picture about it, tomorrow I'll have more pics. I love this primo case, I had a NZXT Switch 810, it's a good case, but the Primo it's a wet-dream But I still have to finish the cable management.
> 
> What do you think guys?
> Sorry for my english, I'm hungarian.


Looks like you've got a clean build there, cable management looks to be on par.


----------



## Sem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *koniu777*
> 
> My acrylic window is 19.25" X 18.25"


Thank you very much by biggest problem with the case is the side window and poor acrylic

now i just need to find one that matches the colour and type corsair used in the 750D


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trestles126*
> 
> The luxe rubber feet just peel off they have like 3m style adhesive on the bottom.


Thanks. It looks like the feet are probably the same for the Primo.

Unfortunately the Primo is seriously lacking for airflow to the bottom of the case. It's a pretty serious design flaw that's been discussed before in this thread. I think this thread's starter, Doyll, was the first to point it out. There is only the rough equivalent of open space for airflow all the way around the bottom of the Primo equal to about that of a single 120mm fan, which becomes a pretty big deal once you start putting larger rads down there. I've tried various methods to increase that space which helps greatly and offers noticeable temp improvements, but am looking for a more permanent and attractive solution. I've got a chunk of black acetyl here I think I might be able to use just for that.

Looking at the Luxe and the Pro it seems Phanteks realized the issue, or maybe just paid attention to forum threads such as this one, and came up with a better performing design because there is absolutely nothing lacking for airflow with the tall feet on those cases.


----------



## Matas

Guys how low you can go with Luxe's default fan configuration? Fan Xpert 2 for me lets go down to about 900 RPM. Anything lower turns off all fans. Does the hub work with silent/standard/turbo modes via qfan in bios for Asus owners? For me all fans connected to hub are spinning at max even with silent preset in VI gene bios.


----------



## emsj86

Little teaser of the enthoo pro blue blurry 2.0 petg edition. No perfect but I'm pretty happy seeing it was all free hand eyeing most of it out


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darkness Sakura*
> 
> Well if it's on special, assuming it's cheaper than everything else, just go with the 2400, but if there is something along the lines of 1866 to 2133 that is cheaper I'd go with that instead, but, again, if it's cheaper then I'd go with the 2400; can never have TOO much power.


If your going for bang for your buck I see a lot of people go g skill 2400 cost around the same as a 1600 set. But if you can't find them the kingston hyper fury 1866 for 70-80 our a great deal


----------



## emsj86

Other than compressed air which I have enty I need a good dust removal. The air works well but still small spaces that have cling on dust that's not really noticeable but bugs me what would be safe and good to use a dust wand?


----------



## owcraftsman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *supr4*
> 
> Hi guys!
> 
> I just finished my rig in my new case today, it's a Primo, here is one picture about it, tomorrow I'll have more pics. I love this primo case, I had a NZXT Switch 810, it's a good case, but the Primo it's a wet-dream But I still have to finish the cable management.
> 
> What do you think guys?
> Sorry for my english, I'm hungarian.


Love Yellow and black just like all my tools 

The only thing I might change is Yellow tubing throughout and matching yellow Rad downstairs otherwise perfecto


----------



## supr4

Thank you!

I have two loops in the system, the yellow loop for the mb-cpu-ram whit the top 360/45 rad + XSPC dual bay res + DDC 1T-Plus, with Mayhems Pastel Sunset Yellow fluid, the other loop is for the vga with the 240/60 Alphacool + 120/38 EK rad with EK DCP 2.2 pump+res combo, with Mayhems Pastel Pure Black fluid, that's why I left the bottom rad as black, the bottom black section for the vga, the top yellow for the mb-cpu-ram. But I'm still thinking about to paint the bottom rad, I like that yellow paint


----------



## Gil80

Will the Enthoo Primo, take a tube reservoir with 2 x R9 290 Gigabyte Windforce edition? I'm planning a new water cooling build and I know I'm going to use the tube res but these GPU are problematic.


----------



## Gobigorgohome

How many radiators could I stuff into a Enthoo Primo? Is 2x 480 Monsta with push in top fine? I would also have used an EK-XTX 240 in the front some place, a 250mm tube reservoir and a D5.









From the pictures it look like the Monsta is good in the top, the motherboard I am going to use is the Gigabyte GA-X79-UD3 (not particularly tall mosfet-cooler), 8-pin cable should be no problem.


----------



## Darkness Sakura

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gobigorgohome*
> 
> How many radiators could I stuff into a Enthoo Primo? Is 2x 480 Monsta with push in top fine? I would also have used an EK-XTX 240 in the front some place, a 250mm tube reservoir and a D5.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> From the pictures it look like the Monsta is good in the top, the motherboard I am going to use is the Gigabyte GA-X79-UD3 (not particularly tall mosfet-cooler), 8-pin cable should be no problem.


Yes, assuming you have low enough (height) ram it'll fit in push-pull. It'll also depend whether or not your MOSFET coolers, if you have them, are also low enough. Other than that it's a beast for holding 480 monstas.

Edit:

The 240 can fit either in front of the HDD cages or if thin enough possibly in the front where the front fans are, but the 480 in the bottom will give you very little room for play, most likely you'll need to put it where the HDD cages are. In total you can fit 2x480, 2x240, and 1x120/140; if you plan to go the 140 route you can fit 2x420 in place of the 2x480.


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darkness Sakura*
> 
> Yes, assuming you have low enough (height) ram it'll fit in push-pull. It'll also depend whether or not your MOSFET coolers, if you have them, are also low enough. Other than that it's a beast for holding 480 monstas.
> 
> Edit:
> 
> The 240 can fit either in front of the HDD cages or if thin enough possibly in the front where the front fans are, but the 480 in the bottom will give you very little room for play, most likely you'll need to put it where the HDD cages are. In total you can fit 2x480, 2x240, and 1x120/140; if you plan to go the 140 route you can fit 2x420 in place of the 2x480.


Okay, good information.









I am planning on using Corsair Dominator Platinums, I will only use push on the top Monsta 480 (Corsair SP120 High Performance) and push/pull on the Monsta 480 in the bottom of the case. The EK-XTX 240 is 65 mm thick, so it is quite massive for a 240 radiator, but I am not sure I will use it if it will be a close fit. I will use 480 Monsta's, not going to do 140mm fans/radiators, the 480s and 240 is spare parts, so it will be those.









Thinking of getting a ~500 GB SSD for games and use a 256 GB for the OS and some programs, so that I would not need the HDD-cages. Is the front metal-piece attaching the case in top and bottom easy to remove? Drill out rivets?


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

With Corsair Dominator Platinums I'm not sure you will have room for a Monsta up top. I believe those sticks of ram run a little over 50mm tall, don't they? Because an Alphacool Monsta rad is 85mm thick and there's only 70mm of space from the top of the mobo to the top of the chassis, with room above that for a layer of fans under the filter cover, so a Monsta up top even without any fans under it will need to be able to overhang the top 15mm of the mobo. There's only about ~54mm of offset clearance from the mobo with a 125mm-wide 120mm-series rad like the Alphacools and that doesn't include the height of the slots the memory fits into which will add a few mm's to the height of the ram. So I guess it depends where on your mobo is the memory located and exactly how tall is that ram.


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> With Corsair Dominator Platinums I'm not sure you will have room for a Monsta up top. I believe those sticks of ram run a little over 50mm tall, don't they? Because an Alphacool Monsta rad is 85mm thick and there's only 70mm of space from the top of the mobo to the top of the chassis, with room above that for a layer of fans under the filter cover, so a Monsta up top even without any fans under it will need to be able to overhang the top 15mm of the mobo. There's only about ~54mm of offset clearance from the mobo with a 125mm-wide 120mm-series rad like the Alphacools and that doesn't include the height of the slots the memory fits into which will add a few mm's to the height of the ram. So I guess it depends where on your mobo is the memory located and exactly how tall is that ram.


Hmm ... I just measured the top of the motherboard (the space from the top of the motherboard-pcb to the mosfet/memory-sticks, and it is 15 mm, if the clearence from the top of the case and to the motherboard is 70 mm it should fit, but it will be close as heck ... I mean ~1 mm maybe, if not less ... which is too little too close to comfort.









The heatsink on the UD3 is pretty high, but the RAM will be a problem nonetheless (even if it is low-key).







Hmmm, got unsure now.

Edit: Radiator overhanging the RAM will look terrible anyways, so that is not wanted.


----------



## sugalumps

Is there anywhere else besides the hdd cage to mount or diy mount a storage hdd. I really want to be able to remove both drive cages for better airflow with my front two 140mm, atm I have the bottom cage still in for just one hdd, seems like a waste. - enthoo luxe


----------



## shanker

You can get a 5.25" HDD adapter for $6 and put one in there. That's what I plan on doing.


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sugalumps*
> 
> Is there anywhere else besides the hdd cage to mount or diy mount a storage hdd. I really want to be able to remove both drive cages for better airflow with my front two 140mm, atm I have the bottom cage still in for just one hdd, seems like a waste. - enthoo luxe


http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA1DS0NZ1129


----------



## Darkness Sakura

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gobigorgohome*
> 
> Hmm ... I just measured the top of the motherboard (the space from the top of the motherboard-pcb to the mosfet/memory-sticks, and it is 15 mm, if the clearence from the top of the case and to the motherboard is 70 mm it should fit, but it will be close as heck ... I mean ~1 mm maybe, if not less ... which is too little too close to comfort.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The heatsink on the UD3 is pretty high, but the RAM will be a problem nonetheless (even if it is low-key).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hmmm, got unsure now.
> 
> Edit: Radiator overhanging the RAM will look terrible anyways, so that is not wanted.


You could, with a reasonable PSU, run the Delta AFB1212-CF00 fans... they are loud when turned up to jet plane status but they will allow for possibly just pull status and you wouldn't require second fans on the inside to aide in cooling. It'd prevent you from possibly covering the RAM, I don't mind covering mine but then again I'm running a green (nostalgic) X10DAX... my RAM doesn't contain heatsinks or anything aesthetic or pleasing to the eye.


----------



## emsj86

Finished the pro


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darkness Sakura*
> 
> You could, with a reasonable PSU, run the Delta AFB1212-CF00 fans... they are loud when turned up to jet plane status but they will allow for possibly just pull status and you wouldn't require second fans on the inside to aide in cooling. It'd prevent you from possibly covering the RAM, I don't mind covering mine but then again I'm running a green (nostalgic) X10DAX... my RAM doesn't contain heatsinks or anything aesthetic or pleasing to the eye.


I am not sure that you follow my problem here, the fans would be in the upper apartment (underneath the dustfilter) on top of the case-frame. Which type of fans does not really matter.

The problem is from the inner part of the top of the case (the metal piece) where it is 70 mm from the inner top to the top of the motherboard-pcb, while the 480 Monsta (or any Monsta) is 85 mm thick. I have another 15 mm spare (which the radiator could overhang the motherboard with) which gives me the total height of about 85 mm (the exact thickness of the radiator) which at this point probably would interfere with my UD3 heatsink and my Corsair Dominator Platinum RAM. I have not talked about push/pull or even at fans inside the case because it is not space for it there, the problem is that the case would not handle 480 Monsta + 25 mm fans on the inside of the case. I am sure someone have managed to place a Monsta 480 in the top with fans underneath the dustfilter (not inside the case), but with the UD3 and Dominator Platinums it will be hard to do so.

In other words, I am back at square one with finding the right case for my cheap X79 machine. At this point the next option is the LD Cooling PC-V4 Bench table .... kind of out of options what can be seen as "normal" cases now at a reasonable price.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

I doubt that the heatsink on the UD3 is tall enough to pose any real clearance issues in the Enthoo Primo, but those Corsair Dominator Platinums would be cutting it very close, and even if they do fit just barely you might well find that you have to have to have the ram in before you install the monsta, and similarly might have to remove the monsta up top first just to be able to install or remove a stick of ram. You would have a lot easier time going with a lower profile memory. Like Jesse @ TheModZoo says quoted in the FAQs on the first post of this thread: "_As long as you do not have anything taller than 53mm on the motherboard (including ram), you can even install a 480mm monsta radiator in push pull. The X79 Dark, and G-Skill ram CAN be used with a monsta rad in push pull._"


----------



## Darkness Sakura

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gobigorgohome*
> 
> I am not sure that you follow my problem here, the fans would be in the upper apartment (underneath the dustfilter) on top of the case-frame. Which type of fans does not really matter.
> 
> The problem is from the inner part of the top of the case (the metal piece) where it is 70 mm from the inner top to the top of the motherboard-pcb, while the 480 Monsta (or any Monsta) is 85 mm thick. I have another 15 mm spare (which the radiator could overhang the motherboard with) which gives me the total height of about 85 mm (the exact thickness of the radiator) which at this point probably would interfere with my UD3 heatsink and my Corsair Dominator Platinum RAM. I have not talked about push/pull or even at fans inside the case because it is not space for it there, the problem is that the case would not handle 480 Monsta + 25 mm fans on the inside of the case. I am sure someone have managed to place a Monsta 480 in the top with fans underneath the dustfilter (not inside the case), but with the UD3 and Dominator Platinums it will be hard to do so.
> 
> In other words, I am back at square one with finding the right case for my cheap X79 machine. At this point the next option is the LD Cooling PC-V4 Bench table .... kind of out of options what can be seen as "normal" cases now at a reasonable price.


Or, like in my current situation as I have a Corsair 600T, run an external cooling setup. I'll post pictures of it completed, but it'll have 4 GTX 980s and an external 60mm thick 9x120mm radiator with 9xAFB1212 fans... may be a bit loud depending on the temps produced from the 4 980s. Just a thought, hope you find what you're looking for though.


----------



## Spork13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sugalumps*
> 
> Is there anywhere else besides the hdd cage to mount or diy mount a storage hdd. I really want to be able to remove both drive cages for better airflow with my front two 140mm, atm I have the bottom cage still in for just one hdd, seems like a waste. - enthoo luxe


Up top in the optical drive bays.
Double sided tape.
Winning.


----------



## Kruilty

So, I've got the Pro on my parts list for my build Im gonna be working on in a month or so. So, hoping people are still modding these and still posting their builds. Looking for some idea's and maybe some mods later in the year (2015) once I start expanding and adding.


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> I doubt that the heatsink on the UD3 is tall enough to pose any real clearance issues in the Enthoo Primo, but those Corsair Dominator Platinums would be cutting it very close, and even if they do fit just barely you might well find that you have to have to have the ram in before you install the monsta, and similarly might have to remove the monsta up top first just to be able to install or remove a stick of ram. You would have a lot easier time going with a lower profile memory. Like Jesse @ TheModZoo says quoted in the FAQs on the first post of this thread: "_As long as you do not have anything taller than 53mm on the motherboard (including ram), you can even install a 480mm monsta radiator in push pull. The X79 Dark, and G-Skill ram CAN be used with a monsta rad in push pull._"


Yes, I see. Problem is that I already have the Dominator Platinums and the Monsta 480s ... probably going to skip them then and look for something else, but I will not buy the Enthoo Primo either if it could not take my 480 Monsta's and my hardware.







Yes, I am stubborn.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darkness Sakura*
> 
> Or, like in my current situation as I have a Corsair 600T, run an external cooling setup. I'll post pictures of it completed, but it'll have 4 GTX 980s and an external 60mm thick 9x120mm radiator with 9xAFB1212 fans... may be a bit loud depending on the temps produced from the 4 980s. Just a thought, hope you find what you're looking for though.


If you had read my sig, you would have seen that I already have 2x MO-RA3 420 (9x 140 mm) on my main gaming rig. The rig in question will be working as a secondary gaming machine and LAN-party gaming machine because my main is too heavy and unpractical to move around. So for the machine in question, external cooling is unthinkable and totally unnecessary. I may just wined up with buying a small CL or LD Cooling case and move all the "good stuff" over into that one and have my second system in the PC-V8 case (where my main rig is now).


----------



## Darkness Sakura

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gobigorgohome*
> 
> If you had read my sig, you would have seen that I already have 2x MO-RA3 420 (9x 140 mm) on my main gaming rig. The rig in question will be working as a secondary gaming machine and LAN-party gaming machine because my main is too heavy and unpractical to move around. So for the machine in question, external cooling is unthinkable and totally unnecessary. I may just wined up with buying a small CL or LD Cooling case and move all the "good stuff" over into that one and have my second system in the PC-V8 case (where my main rig is now).


My apologies. Well best of luck on finding something to suit your requirements.


----------



## warcaholic

awsome build emsj, planning to do the same once i go full water on my enthoo luxe. problem is i dont know if tube res will fit with 2 980s on system. sorry for bad english


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *warcaholic*
> 
> awsome build emsj, planning to do the same once i go full water on my enthoo luxe. problem is i dont know if tube res will fit with 2 980s on system. sorry for bad english


Well I have the 780 with bitspower multi z 150 res and the 780 Is 10.5 inches and I have room to spare so I think you will def have room as the 980s our not large cards in length they are bigger in height


----------



## ZealotKi11er

I am using the build in PWM controller that comes with Entho Pro and for some reason the fans that i have connected keep ramping up and down even when system is at idle. Its very annoying.


----------



## warcaholic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Well I have the 780 with bitspower multi z 150 res and the 780 Is 10.5 inches and I have room to spare so I think you will def have room as the 980s our not large cards in length they are bigger in height


Oh great then! thanks for the heads up there. I can see in your post pic that you do have abit of room left with the card+res. now will do it with confidence







and post pics here once its done.














thanks emsj86


----------



## Freaxy

Hello all,
I'm looking into buying this Phanteks Enthoo Primo and use it for my first (extreme) water cooling build.
I need some help though with picking a tube reservoir because I can't find inside dimensions of the case.
Seeing my graphics cards are 312mm long (gigabyte gtx 980 gaming g1) I can't use the tube res bracket.

So my question is how much clearance would I have on the back tube res bracket if I use a 480 monsta rad push/pull in the bottom (25mm+80mm+25mm=130mm) and a 480 60mm rad push/pull in the top with the pull fans in the top dock (so 60mm+25mm=85mm inside the case)?
Can this fit a 250mm tube? With the rear exhaust fan removed of course. Or should I stick with a 150mm or 170mm tube res, or even a bay res?

*Edit:*
I just measured my card's PCB without the enormous cooler and overdone backplate, since I'm gonna watercool them anyway as soon as the EK blocks get released, and it's 272mm, which means I can use the tube res bracket as far as I know (please correct me if I'm wrong).
So I guess I would get away with a 250mm tube anyway as long as it's 60mm wide.


----------



## maskymus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Freaxy*
> 
> Hello all,
> So my question is how much clearance would I have on the back tube res bracket if I use a 480 monsta rad push/pull in the bottom (25mm+80mm+25mm=130mm) and a 480 60mm rad push/pull in the top with the pull fans in the top dock (so 60mm+25mm=85mm inside the case)?.


You can't fit anything longer than reference 980/780 with the bracket, which is 10.5in - 266.7mm (up to 267mm). you have only 1mm spare from that value between the bracket and graphic card.
You have around 35cm of clearance from top monsta rad fan to bottom 60mm rad on the roof of the case, but you also need to take into consideration the width of the grahic card as well.
I'll have the same build but after all I've chosen bay res.
Here is the photo of the clearance:
(currently without the upper rad because of painting in process. test fit was done previously and 60mm rad with push fans just barely overhangs the RAM latches)


Spoiler: mm


----------



## Freaxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *maskymus*
> 
> You can't fit anything longer than reference 980/780 with the bracket, which is 10.5in - 266.7mm (up to 267mm). you have only 1mm spare from that value between the bracket and graphic card.
> You have around 35cm of clearance from top monsta rad fan to bottom 60mm rad on the roof of the case, but you also need to take into consideration the width of the grahic card as well.
> I'll have the same build but after all I've chosen bay res.
> Here is the photo of the clearance:
> (currently without the upper rad because of painting in process. test fit was done previously and 60mm rad with push fans just barely overhangs the RAM latches)
> 
> 
> Spoiler: mm


Thanks for the quick answer and the amazingly clear pic!
So that means even without backplate (272mm) the Gaming G1 cards don't fit in combination with bracket. Though 35cm is quite a lot of space, maybe try and fit the EK 250mm res on the back without the exhaust fan, or indeed go for a bay res.
Hard decisions, luckily I got some time until the waterblocks for the videocards are released.


----------



## sugalumps

Think I may remove the mini front panel on the luxe to improve the front two 140mm intakes, as the airflow I feel is a bit restricted because of said aesthetic panel. Has anyone tried this to see the difference?


----------



## Gil80

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gil80*
> 
> Will the Enthoo Primo, take a tube reservoir with 2 x R9 290 Gigabyte Windforce edition? I'm planning a new water cooling build and I know I'm going to use the tube res but these GPU are problematic.


Anyone?


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gil80*
> 
> Anyone?


depend on the tube you plan mate. Aquacomputer have 80 mm reservoir that usually will conflict with long cards in the primo. But also does the small tube 50 or 55 mm which usually are fine. ek and most other reservoirs are around 60 mm. Without specifying the reservoir is impossible to known for sure. It will also help giving the exact dimension of your vga.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gil80*
> 
> Anyone?


I can't find a listing for the block for that card, so I don't know how long it is going to end up being.


----------



## maskymus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gil80*
> 
> Anyone?


Please read the post that was sent to Freaxy earlier. Measure the PCB length of the card and if it's longer than 10.5 inches you're out of luck.
Gigabyte specs : 297mm length and according to photos the PCB may be just slightly less than the windforce system, so the res won't fit on the res bracket.
A res on the back of the case can be mounted only with reference cards, which have 111.5mm (4.4inches), so it's also not an option for you. (don't have the correct measurements - will post it later)

My advice: stick with bay res or mount tube res+pump combo in the bay res compartment.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Attempted to get a Pro at Newegg using the MasterPass $15 off promo so I signed up for that crap only to have issues with that payment method at Newegg and was told I needed to contact Master Pass...and now the damn case is out of stock. As I was worried might happen when I saw the windowless one sell out a few days ago.

FCPU is it, now. $20+ shipping too.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *maskymus*
> 
> Please read the post that was sent to Freaxy earlier. Measure the PCB length of the card and if it's longer than 10.5 inches you're out of luck.
> Gigabyte specs : 297mm length and according to photos the PCB may be just slightly less than the windforce system, so the res won't fit on the res bracket.
> A res on the back of the case can be mounted only with reference cards, which have 111.5mm (4.4inches), so it's also not an option for you. (don't have the correct measurements - will post it later)
> 
> My advice: stick with bay res or mount tube res+pump combo in the bay res compartment.


It all depends on his choice of reservoir mate. I have more than 30 cm clearance to my tube since is a small Aquacomputer with 50 mm diameter so... He need to give us the card dimension and reservoir he wants to use.


----------



## Sem

Just wondering if anyone here can help me save my Enthoo luxe because i am really close to striping it down and transferring back to my 750D

the problem is due to the bay res i am using a Monsoon M2 D5 Premium its making this really annoying resonating sound that is driving me mad

before i used a bitspower tube res and that hardly made any noise

here a pic




has anyone got any ideas

i am thinking of removing the HDD cage and moving my drives to the 5.25 days freeing up space at the bottom to mount a pump/res combo

anyone done anything similar or got any pics?


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sem*
> 
> Just wondering if anyone here can help me save my Enthoo luxe because i am really close to striping it down and transferring back to my 750D
> 
> the problem is due to the bay res i am using a Monsoon M2 D5 Premium its making this really annoying resonating sound that is driving me mad


Have you tried playing with the pump speed a bit? It seems every case a speed that will cause some resonance. For example, I can't run my D5 at 2200-2400 without awful resonance in my Primo, but have no issue at any other speed. It may be solved that simply.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZealotKi11er*
> 
> I am using the build in PWM controller that comes with Entho Pro and for some reason the fans that i have connected keep ramping up and down even when system is at idle. Its very annoying.


Sound like the temp to rpm is the problem. Have you tried adjusting the temperature to fan speed curve?


----------



## ZealotKi11er

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Sound like the temp to rpm is the problem. Have you tried adjusting the temperature to fan speed curve?


Yeah. I changed the profiles for the fan and also downloaded the Windows software but it will still ramp up and down.


----------



## Trexxit

So thinking of grabbing a MSI z87 mpower board since theyre on sale right now and painting the yellow green. Think it would look good with sleeved cables?


----------



## Reaper28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sem*
> 
> Just wondering if anyone here can help me save my Enthoo luxe because i am really close to striping it down and transferring back to my 750D
> 
> the problem is due to the bay res i am using a Monsoon M2 D5 Premium its making this really annoying resonating sound that is driving me mad
> 
> before i used a bitspower tube res and that hardly made any noise
> 
> here a pic
> 
> 
> 
> 
> has anyone got any ideas
> 
> i am thinking of removing the HDD cage and moving my drives to the 5.25 days freeing up space at the bottom to mount a pump/res combo
> 
> anyone done anything similar or got any pics?


I have heard a few problems with the Monsoon res, it appears to be quite common also with it not lining up correctly. Like others suggested I would try slowing down the pump to see if that helps or even try to insulate the res with some sort of padding. Having had the 750D I wouldn't go back lol, nice setup btw


----------



## Sharklasers

Sorry to dig this up again, but like TallGray I managed to squeeze the XSPC RX480V3 with the original side panel in.

I had do disassemble the top and the side panel, the Radiator was the first thing to go in, then the side panel and then the top.

All in all it wasn't that hard to get it in even though the specs say otherwise. I'll see if I can post some pictures tomorrow.

And unlike TallGray's Radiator mine doesn't have the slanted angle, but that might just be a side effect of me going push/pull on it.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> OK I want to rehash this older series of posts a bit.
> When I saw this post from TallGray back then I couldn't wrap my head around it. There's no way in hell a 130mm wide 360 or 480 rad could possibly fit in the bottom of my Primo. My 124mm wide Alphacool just barely squeezes in there touching both the PSU shroud and the panel at the same time also requiring me to remove the lower grommet. There's no way possible a rad 5mm wider could fit in my case without buckling the rad and/or side panel.
> 
> That got me thinking. Way back when there were rumors posted here in this thread that Phanteks was going to release a V2 version of the Primo, and speculation was that they would make changes to the res bracket to better accommodate longer cards. AFAIK we never did see any evidence of a V2 of the case or any changes made, but now I'm thinking that TallGray's post may be just that. Did Phanteks alter the Primo to have more than 125mm clearance between the PSU shroud and the panel for compatibility with wider rads?
> 
> I'm thinking they must have.
> 
> That would explain the difference in the manual and why they took out the "_*** 125mm width max_" note on page 26 for 360 and 480 rads in the bottom.
> 
> Here is Page 26 of the original manual when the Primo first released (when I bought my Primo):
> 
> 
> 
> And here is Page 26 now. Notice they removed the note in the bottom right corner about a max 125mm width:
> 
> 
> 
> Sooo, that begs the question: What is the width of the space between the panel and the PSU shroud on cases being sold now? How wide of a rad will fit?


----------



## Freaxy

Alright, I bought the Enthoo Primo and it should be here on the 31st. Gonna wait with the watercooling parts and first check if a card without cooler fits, since it's way smaller without the cooler. And then buy a res according to those measurements. I think that's the safest way.

one thing is for sure, I really want this case! Seems like an amazing customizable case!


----------



## Jedicake

I've had this case for.... several several months now and I still wonder something.....

Does anyone else sometimes get "creaky" noises from the case? It could just be my very heavy large top radiator that makes a "creaky" I guess creaky isn't the right word. It's hard to explain.


----------



## Darkness Sakura

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jedicake*
> 
> I've had this case for.... several several months now and I still wonder something.....
> 
> Does anyone else sometimes get "creaky" noises from the case? It could just be my very heavy large top radiator that makes a "creaky" I guess creaky isn't the right word. It's hard to explain.


I can't confirm this on the Primo but I can confirm it on my Corsair 600T, it only occurs when the left side panel is installed - basically it's the acrylic window causing the sound (at least for the 600T). Mine mainly "creaks" when I'm folding due to the hotter temperatures of the GPU during folding and since I'm still currently folding under the stock air cooler the hot air just blasts to the window so mine tends to creak only when I have the side cover on and I have variances in temperatures on both the inside and outside of the case; maybe this is what you're experiencing?


----------



## Gil80

Who can help me plan a new water cooling system using the Enthoo Primo case?
I would be glad to get a professional and personal advice and then post the results back here for the community.

My current limitations are my 2 x R9 290 Gigabyte Windforce with Tube res.
But having said that, I would like to chat/skype with someone over my "shopping list" and tweak as best as possible, since the store I'm buying the parts from, is not located in my city and I'd like to minimize the mistakes due to wrong / mismatching parts because of whatever limitation the case has and my current PC parts.

Please, if anyone can assist, I'd appreciate a PM and get a serious help on the matter. I've gone through the OP but I have so many questions in mind that I'm sure can be answered once I get the chance to show my aim with the water cooling build I'm planning.

Thanks!


----------



## emsj86

For the ddc owners. Where are you mounting your pump. And have you had to drill out the bottom of the case to mount the heatsink legs?


----------



## Sharklasers

Sorry for the grainy image quality, I couldn't find my camera.






The build is very much a work in Progress, still waiting on my GPU block and need to get the wiring done.


----------



## Redeye247

Just a heads up for anyone with the Enthoo Primo, who has issues with the front panel catches that are fragile. I have been able to source some cheap replacements. I have had to order some myself for my brand new Primo, as I have had no joy with Phanteks customer service. Anyway these are on the U.k Ebay site, Though I am sure they would be available elsewhere.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2x-Replacement-catch-Brabantia-compatible-Touch-Lid-bin-clip-latch-spare-repair/301446027681?_trksid=p5713.c100041.m2061&_trkparms=aid%3D333008%26algo%3DRIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20140109122350%26meid%3Df19cc7dcf50648168dc0ab1a33c7f320%26pid%3D100041%26prg%3D20140109122350%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D9%26sd%3D151520005252


----------



## waveaddict

Anyone out there with a Enthoo Evolve
I need a measurement......



From pci-e slot to inside edge of vertical plate.


----------



## sugalumps

People with big air coolers(nh-d15), where are you connecting your hub and cooler fans to. As the fans for the nh-d15 go straight onto the cpu header for pwm control and wont stretch to the hub. So where do you connect the hub to for control, will the hub fan speed control work off of a system fan header?


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sugalumps*
> 
> People with big air coolers(nh-d15), where are you connecting your hub and cooler fans to. As the fans for the nh-d15 go straight onto the cpu header for pwm control and wont stretch to the hub. So where do you connect the hub to for control, will the hub fan speed control work off of a system fan header?


The nh-d15 has 4-pin PWM fans. The Phanteks hub is made for use with 3-pin voltage controlled fans and it needs to be connected to a PWM hub, which on most boards means it must be a CPU header. Consult your mobo's manual or manufacturer to be sure.


----------



## sugalumps

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> The nh-d15 has 4-pin PWM fans. The Phanteks hub is made for use with 3-pin voltage controlled fans and it needs to be connected to a PWM hub, which on most boards means it must be a CPU header. Consult your mobo's manual or manufacturer to be sure.


That's the point, there is only one true pwm fan header on the mb and it's the cpu fan header. The cpu fan header is where we connect the nh-d15's fans right? So where do we connect the 4 pin phanteks entho luxe hub to now that we have used the true pwm fan header on the mb already.

Does the phanteks hub use voltage control to control fans? I.e if I am using noctua nf-a14 pwms connected to the hub(which I am) is it using voltage to control them or pwm signals. I am so lost with this hub









The d15 is arriving in a few days and I am not sure where I will connect it's fans to if I am already using the pwm fan header for the phanteks hub, and the d15s fans wont stretch to the hub.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sugalumps*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> The nh-d15 has 4-pin PWM fans. The Phanteks hub is made for use with 3-pin voltage controlled fans and it needs to be connected to a PWM hub, which on most boards means it must be a CPU header. Consult your mobo's manual or manufacturer to be sure.
> 
> 
> 
> That's the point, there is only one true pwm fan header on the mb and it's the cpu fan header. The cpu fan header is where we connect the nh-d15's fans right? So where do we connect the 4 pin phanteks entho luxe hub to now that we have used the true pwm fan header on the mb already.
> 
> Does the phanteks hub use voltage control to control fans? I.e if I am using noctua nf-a14 pwms connected to the hub(which I am) is it using voltage to control them or pwm signals. I am so lost with this hub
Click to expand...

The Phanteks hub uses voltage to control 3-pin fans. It uses a PWM signal from the mobo to a mosfet on the hub to modulate the 12v voltage according to the width of the PWM duty cycle simulating the voltage going up/down.
Quote:


> The d15 is arriving in a few days and I am not sure where I will connect it's fans to if I am already using the pwm fan header for the phanteks hub, and the d15s fans wont stretch to the hub.


Well, if you wanted to voltage control those noctua fans you could use a 3 pin fan splitter cable to the hub, but I'm not so sure how well those PWM fans will like you doing that to them.

Unfortunately a better option for you might be to not use the Phanteks hub at all. The hub is a trouble-prone device in any case. Just do a quick search of this thread for 'hub' and see how many people have had problems with it. If the rest of the fans you have in your case are 3-pin fans then you could use an Aquacomputer Poweradjust 3 or an NZXT Grid+ in place of the hub, or a 5.25" bay fan controller. If the rest of your fans are PWM you could just get a Swiftech PWM splitter hub and run up to 8 PWM fans, incl your CPU cooler fans, off of it. Of course you still may need some splitter or extension cables to get your fans to reach any of those choices also.


----------



## jumpy2219

Got my Phanteks Enthoo Pro for Christmas, and I am loving it! I already have a review done of it, and I filmed a build guide with it. Its amazing to work with.




I'm currently still editing a build guide I used this case with.


----------



## Faster_is_better

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> Attempted to get a Pro at Newegg using the MasterPass $15 off promo so I signed up for that crap only to have issues with that payment method at Newegg and was told I needed to contact Master Pass...and now the damn case is out of stock. As I was worried might happen when I saw the windowless one sell out a few days ago.
> 
> FCPU is it, now. $20+ shipping too.


If the coupon doesn't work you can almost always get on the support chat or phone and just tell them you can't get the coupon to work and they will likely give you a credit back on your purchase. You don't even have to bother with their shenanigans (other than maybe a 2 hour wait time for them to get to you on chat... lol)
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gil80*
> 
> Who can help me plan a new water cooling system using the Enthoo Primo case?
> I would be glad to get a professional and personal advice and then post the results back here for the community.
> 
> My current limitations are my 2 x R9 290 Gigabyte Windforce with Tube res.
> But having said that, I would like to chat/skype with someone over my "shopping list" and tweak as best as possible, since the store I'm buying the parts from, is not located in my city and I'd like to minimize the mistakes due to wrong / mismatching parts because of whatever limitation the case has and my current PC parts.
> 
> Please, if anyone can assist, I'd appreciate a PM and get a serious help on the matter. I've gone through the OP but I have so many questions in mind that I'm sure can be answered once I get the chance to show my aim with the water cooling build I'm planning.
> 
> Thanks!


You might also make a dedicated post in the Watercooling section, and just ask for advice on loop layouts there too. That's what I will be doing, to bad I missed out and didn't buy the Primo around Black Friday for cheaper, now the black version is OOS on Newegg plus they jacked up the price.


----------



## Jhexp

I got the Enthoo Luxe the other day and love it, apart from the side window panel, it looked foggy, not clear. I emailed Phanteks and they replied very quickly. They said it's meant to be a smoky window.... Any else heard of this?







They did ask for pics and would send me a new panel.


----------



## Spork13

The windows are tinted, but should be a uniform colour/clarity all over.


----------



## owcraftsman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jhexp*
> 
> I got the Enthoo Luxe the other day and love it, apart from the side window panel, it looked foggy, not clear. I emailed Phanteks and they replied very quickly. They said it's meant to be a smoky window.... Any else heard of this?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> They did ask for pics and would send me a new panel.


Ahh I see what they did there a play on words, smokey means blurry.... lame! I wouldn't bother the hand picked replacement will be just as bad, mine was. If you want *clear smoked lexan or polycarbonite glass* buy some and mod your case which is what I did after receiving my replacement glass. Oh and if you do decide to get a replacement beware they only send the main large panel and skip the small one. I used velcro to affix the two new pieces on the side panel. I've seen some here use double sided tape but I want to be able to easily remove if need be. There are several companies that will cut lexan or poly to order I went with a piece 1/2" larger width and height and used 1/4" velcro tape. Also I saw a mod, here in this thread, I wish I had seen before I did mine, where a guy eliminated the side panel altogether using one solid piece of lexan glass and it looked really sharp. In any case GL


----------



## Jhexp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *owcraftsman*
> 
> Ahh I see what they did there a play on words, smokey means blurry.... lame! I wouldn't bother the hand picked replacement will be just as bad, mine was. If you want *clear smoked lexan or polycarbonite glass* buy some and mod your case which is what I did after receiving my replacement glass. Oh and if you do decide to get a replacement beware they only send the main large panel and skip the small one. I used velcro to affix the two new pieces on the side panel. I've seen some here use double sided tape but I want to be able to easily remove if need be. There are several companies that will cut lexan or poly to order I went with a piece 1/2" larger width and height and used 1/4" velcro tape. Also I saw a mod, here in this thread, I wish I had seen before I did mine, where a guy eliminated the side panel altogether using one solid piece of lexan glass and it looked really sharp. In any case GL


I don't think I'll bother with a replacement, the mod with one piece of Lexan sheet sounds interesting though...


----------



## dsmwookie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Redeye247*
> 
> Just a heads up for anyone with the Enthoo Primo, who has issues with the front panel catches that are fragile. I have been able to source some cheap replacements. I have had to order some myself for my brand new Primo, as I have had no joy with Phanteks customer service. Anyway these are on the U.k Ebay site, Though I am sure they would be available elsewhere.
> 
> http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2x-Replacement-catch-Brabantia-compatible-Touch-Lid-bin-clip-latch-spare-repair/301446027681?_trksid=p5713.c100041.m2061&_trkparms=aid%3D333008%26algo%3DRIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20140109122350%26meid%3Df19cc7dcf50648168dc0ab1a33c7f320%26pid%3D100041%26prg%3D20140109122350%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D9%26sd%3D151520005252


If you email Phanteks they will send you a pair. At least they did for me.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *waveaddict*
> 
> Anyone out there with a Enthoo Evolve
> I need a measurement......
> 
> 
> 
> From pci-e slot to inside edge of vertical plate.


http://www.overclock.net/t/1528841/phanteks-evolv-loop-planning/0_50

This might help.


----------



## emsj86

Don't bother. That's one of the few flaws with these cases is the side window.


----------



## sugalumps

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> The Phanteks hub uses voltage to control 3-pin fans. It uses a PWM signal from the mobo to a mosfet on the hub to modulate the 12v voltage according to the width of the PWM duty cycle simulating the voltage going up/down.
> Well, if you wanted to voltage control those noctua fans you could use a 3 pin fan splitter cable to the hub, but I'm not so sure how well those PWM fans will like you doing that to them.
> 
> Unfortunately a better option for you might be to not use the Phanteks hub at all. The hub is a trouble-prone device in any case. Just do a quick search of this thread for 'hub' and see how many people have had problems with it. If the rest of the fans you have in your case are 3-pin fans then you could use an Aquacomputer Poweradjust 3 or an NZXT Grid+ in place of the hub, or a 5.25" bay fan controller. If the rest of your fans are PWM you could just get a Swiftech PWM splitter hub and run up to 8 PWM fans, incl your CPU cooler fans, off of it. Of course you still may need some splitter or extension cables to get your fans to reach any of those choices also.


Ty m8, usefull advice I will just go with a fan controller and use the nh-d15 on the cpu header. Will save me alot of confusion


----------



## Zeplin

Here is my new Entho Pro.





Only minor complain is that new need lights inside the case to see the hardware because the side panel is pretty dark.
Also the USB 3.0 ports are not strait for some reason.


----------



## Reaper28

@Zeplin, nice system. I like the ROG logo on the bay res

Finally got my Luxe yesterday, build is coming along slowly but almost down next is GPU's.


----------



## Darkness Sakura

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Reaper28*
> 
> @Zeplin, nice system. I like the ROG logo on the bay res
> 
> Finally got my Luxe yesterday, build is coming along slowly but almost down next is GPU's.


Get some GTX 980s, unless you're an AMD person, you won't be disappointed! (Except at the price...)


----------



## Reaper28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darkness Sakura*
> 
> Get some GTX 980s, unless you're an AMD person, you won't be disappointed! (Except at the price...)


Going 970's, not that rich lol. Still be a major upgrade from what I'm on now


----------



## ZealotKi11er

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Reaper28*
> 
> Going 970's, not that rich lol. Still be a major upgrade from what I'm on now


Check the prices. If you are in Canada GTX970s are no worth it over R9 290. More then $100 price difference. Winter here is cold and electricity is cheap.


----------



## Reaper28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZealotKi11er*
> 
> Check the prices. If you are in Canada GTX970s are no worth it over R9 290. More then $100 price difference. Winter here is cold and electricity is cheap.


After the problems I've had with AMD, I'm going to stay away for a while and go Nvidia. Power and heat aren't an issue they will be under water and I don't pay for electricity lol


----------



## Reaper28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Redeye247*
> 
> Just a heads up for anyone with the Enthoo Primo, who has issues with the front panel catches that are fragile. I have been able to source some cheap replacements. I have had to order some myself for my brand new Primo, as I have had no joy with Phanteks customer service. Anyway these are on the U.k Ebay site, Though I am sure they would be available elsewhere.
> 
> http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2x-Replacement-catch-Brabantia-compatible-Touch-Lid-bin-clip-latch-spare-repair/301446027681?_trksid=p5713.c100041.m2061&_trkparms=aid%3D333008%26algo%3DRIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20140109122350%26meid%3Df19cc7dcf50648168dc0ab1a33c7f320%26pid%3D100041%26prg%3D20140109122350%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D9%26sd%3D151520005252


Just opened my Luxe, the top panel seems the same way I'm not sure if its sticking because its new but they use the exact same clips as the Corsair 750D and I'm not going through the same BS with that case as I am with my Luxe..thanks for the link. One quick question, do you happen to know how to remove the old clips?

Looking at my Luxe, it is smaller then I thought in height anyways. Already planning my setup, unfortunately the inside is scratched and they use the same latch design on the top panel as the 750D which to me is disappointing. Come on Phanteks use magnets always use magnets!

Scratch

Top panel clips


----------



## ZealotKi11er

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Reaper28*
> 
> Just opened my Luxe, the top panel seems the same way I'm not sure if its sticking because its new but they use the exact same clips as the Corsair 750D and I'm not going through the same BS with that case as I am with my Luxe..thanks for the link. One quick question, do you happen to know how to remove the old clips?
> 
> Looking at my Luxe, it is smaller then I thought in height anyways. Already planning my setup, unfortunately the inside is scratched and they use the same latch design on the top panel as the 750D which to me is disappointing. Come on Phanteks use magnets always use magnets!
> 
> Scratch
> 
> Top panel clips


I have the same scratch at same exact spot.


----------



## benbenkr

^Sucks to see the scratch.

It's been quite a few months now where people are getting their Pro, Luxe or Primo having scratches. The former 2 having the most issues, we would have thought by now Phanteks would have fixed these issues but it seems... nothing has been done? Their customer support is good (in comparison to other much more established companies), but they need to really up their game on all these niggly issues.

As for the push clips, I wholy agree. The clips are dumb and magnetic fan filters would have been great, it's more expensive but considering the Luxe is quite a bit more than the Pro then I don't see why it shouldn't have been included.


----------



## Reaper28

@ZealotKi11er, same defective batch? lol

@benbenkr, I agree, I'm hoping to "overcome" the obstacles and finish the build


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Reaper28*
> 
> After the problems I've had with AMD, I'm going to stay away for a while and go Nvidia. Power and heat aren't an issue they will be under water and I don't pay for electricity lol


FWIW, GTX970s are Nvidia









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Reaper28*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Redeye247*
> 
> Just a heads up for anyone with the Enthoo Primo, who has issues with the front panel catches that are fragile. I have been able to source some cheap replacements. I have had to order some myself for my brand new Primo, as I have had no joy with Phanteks customer service. Anyway these are on the U.k Ebay site, Though I am sure they would be available elsewhere.
> 
> http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2x-Replacement-catch-Brabantia-compatible-Touch-Lid-bin-clip-latch-spare-repair/301446027681?_trksid=p5713.c100041.m2061&_trkparms=aid%3D333008%26algo%3DRIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20140109122350%26meid%3Df19cc7dcf50648168dc0ab1a33c7f320%26pid%3D100041%26prg%3D20140109122350%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D9%26sd%3D151520005252
> 
> 
> 
> Just opened my Luxe, the top panel seems the same way I'm not sure if its sticking because its new but they use the exact same clips as the Corsair 750D and I'm not going through the same BS with that case as I am with my Luxe..thanks for the link. One quick question, do you happen to know how to remove the old clips?
Click to expand...

The clips are easy enough to remove. There are two little tabs on either side that need pushed in while you push the latch out. iirc I used a couple small flathead screwdrivers on either side and pushed the latch out with my thumbs.



Quite a few of us have had those latches fail, I'm pretty sure I broke mine by removing the front case panel of my then brand new Enthoo Primo without removing the smaller air filter panel from it first. Seems those click latches couldn't handle the abrupt popping loose of the front panel and they get stripped out when the weight of the front filter panel causes it to just pop straight out without pushing the latches in first like you are supposed to do to remove it.

Like Redeye above, I wound up buying a bunch of extra latches after initially going through Phanteks support to get the two that broke when my case was brand new. Here's a post of mine from back in Feb 14 with some tips on how to find them:
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Here's a small update on the extra push-click latches for the filters on the Enthoo Primo we were discussing a month or so ago since they seem a bit prone to failing (I've had to get two replaced from Phanteks already, and so have several others here). [...] In the US I've found them referred to as a *Grab Catch* or *non-magnetic mini touch latch* and in the UK they can be found by searching for a '*push click bin latch*'.


If you are buying in the US though I'd avoid the ones from 'Homeclick' (often one of the first search results). They are the right latches but I and one other person here who bought some from them had the same experience. They were supposed to come in a 4-pack but we only received one latch instead of 4 and had to contact them to point out the issue and have more sent. They did, so in the end was all good, but they were slow and more costly. I also ordered 5 of the latches from the UK off of ebay and they were cheaper and arrived sooner to the US than the Homeclick order did. If you don't want to order from the UK there's other US sellers besides Homeclick I'd go though if I were you.


----------



## Freaxy

I got my Enthoo Primo today and also one clip that is defective.


----------



## Reaper28

@Unicr0nhunter, thanks for the tip. I'll probably buy a few on payday from ebay the link post before actually ships to Canada. I actually have to use a lot of force to get the right side to pop up so I doubt it will last a lot longer especially once I start installing fans, rads and cleaning it every few days. I've spent more time buying cases and doing RMA's then I have installing hardware


----------



## sugalumps

Going to have to love you and leave you phanteks club, like reaper and zealot my luxe came with alot of scratches and paint chips on the inside. The window was just a rek of scratches their was glue everywhere on the front top panel and the front usb shield snapped off. There was also a few scratches on the back panel, not many but a few revealing the silver under it. The side window panel also had not been finished, the paint had faided round all the inside edges.

Reading the phanteks forum this is actualy rather common, it seems their quality control is not the best. I know they are a small company and the actualy materials/build quality is unrivaled at this price, the features and space are also incredible all the while looking really sleak.

Scan has came through for me though and is rmaing the case, so back into my phantom 410 until I get the money back. I am not sure if I will give phanteks another chance with a new luxe. I will think about it and look at basically every case around the £90-150 mark again.


----------



## emsj86

Anyone have a luxe or pro with a bitspower multi tank z 250 I want to see how much room is left over


----------



## emsj86

Why don't you just get another one. Doesn't matter what you buy everything has issues time to time and your always going to hear the worse louder than the good


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Why don't you just get another one. Doesn't matter what you buy everything has issues time to time and your always going to hear the worse louder than the good


With that much stuff wrong no one could blame him for just wanting the money back. I don't recall others who have had similar type issues sounding as bad as all that but honestly this is an ongoing issue with Phanteks cases, especially the Pro and Luxe, and maybe Phanteks needs to start having people return the cases and demand their money back if they can't get these things worked out better in the first place. It shouldn't be all that common that a new case arrives with anything wrong with it, much less multiple glaring things.


----------



## sugalumps

I saw the rep saying earlier in this thread that they fixed the inside issue with the toolbox, which is the sole purpose I went ahead and ordered it. They infact have not, seriously why do they not start putting the box under the psu cover? That way it would not rattle about and if it did the only thing it would scrap is the bottom of the psu cover and the area the psu sits on(neither you see). That is much better than all around the motherboard and all over the side panel/window.

It's a shame, I will think about it over the weekend but looking at their forums there EU/UK support is not great either. People having to phone up the american support just to get through to the eu support, forum posts and rma posts etc not being replied to for months on end.


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Why don't you just get another one. Doesn't matter what you buy everything has issues time to time and your always going to hear the worse louder than the good


I'd do the same if i bought a product that had so many issues.


----------



## schoolofmonkey

So guys how do you get warranty on a Primo?
I've tried 3 motherboards and the front USB 2/3 headers do not work at all.
Anything connected to them just drops out after a couple of seconds.

It's been like that since I bought it, but people thought it was my motherboard.

The other thing I noticed is the paint on the side panel is crap, I got a little bit of TIM on it from fingers, wiped it off with some isopropyl alcohol, it took the paint off with 1 wipe.


----------



## emsj86

Your right. They probably didn't fix the to box issue. I know I orders my pro upon release from amazon which was a good thing bc it came with scratched window and broke. Front and top panel. I was lucky to have amazon as my seller bc I got a new one overnighted and 39 days to send the d one back free of charge which allowed me to pick and choose/ swap out parts. Either way they need to fix the problem it isn't hard. I wonder if sellers have d stock or that they just haven't solved the issue.


----------



## pshootr

I have the Phanteks Enthoo Luxe, and I can not get the rear portion of the top filter panel to stay down, it just springs back up. The two cleats on the panel are not broken but they will not lock in to the female slots (clips), so after pressing them down they just spring rite back up. I have tried many times to get them to lock in place. This is really annoying.

I noticed some others have had issues with this as well, I guess I will have to call them to see if they will send me some replacement clips.









Otherwise, I really like this case. My window does has a very small blemish on the inside, nothing major but still a little disappointing. And I don't know how because the accessory box was tied down. Go figure.


----------



## Reaper28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Why don't you just get another one. Doesn't matter what you buy everything has issues time to time and your always going to hear the worse louder than the good


I've been through 4 RMA''s with Corsair for a destroyed 750D since Oct and still waiting for parts, unfortunately the quality is worse then the Luxe and willing to stay with it as long as nothing else happens. But at $170 things like this shouldn't happen a few mistakes are common or not controllable but that's not that much of an excuse. I've spent more time dealing with case problems then I have installing anything.


----------



## Reaper28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pshootr*
> 
> I have the Phanteks Enthoo Luxe, and I can not get the rear portion of the top filter panel to stay down, it just springs back up. The two cleats on the panel are not broken but they will not lock in to the female slots (clips), so after pressing them down they just spring rite back up. I have tried many times to get them to lock in place. This is really annoying.
> 
> I noticed some others have had issues with this as well, I guess I will have to call them to see if they will send me some replacement clips.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Otherwise, I really like this case. My window does has a very small blemish on the inside, nothing major but still a little disappointing. And I don't know how because the accessory box was tied down. Go figure.


Mine was bouncing around the inside of the case, I noticed a little ding mark in the 5.25 bay all the tie downs for the box were open lol


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Reaper28*
> 
> I've been through 4 RMA''s with Corsair for a destroyed 750D since Oct and still waiting for parts, unfortunately the quality is worse then the Luxe and willing to stay with it as long as nothing else happens. But at $170 things like this shouldn't happen a few mistakes are common or not controllable but that's not that much of an excuse. I've spent more time dealing with case problems then I have installing anything.


Your right I was wrong for saying that. Well I hope things work out. I wish phanteks would come out with a side mount rad case I believe the xl will but I like the bottom ones like case labs and 900d bc of the looks and being able to build / mod a mid plate


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pshootr*
> 
> I have the Phanteks Enthoo Luxe, and I can not get the rear portion of the top filter panel to stay down, it just springs back up. The two cleats on the panel are not broken but they will not lock in to the female slots (clips), so after pressing them down they just spring rite back up. I have tried many times to get them to lock in place. This is really annoying.
> 
> I noticed some others have had issues with this as well, I guess I will have to call them to see if they will send me some replacement clips.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Otherwise, I really like this case. My window does has a very small blemish on the inside, nothing major but still a little disappointing. And I don't know how because the accessory box was tied down. Go figure.


I wish the windows could be replaced with same size ones. I know you can mod it but the one that is in there now is groves on the outside so it's flush with the panel which is what I want. Only other option it seems is to either buy a non window side panel and cut my own window size out or go full acrylic like the one poster here did. also what do you guys think should I take the bottom rad and mount it up front than buy the ddc housing and mount it directly to the floor and get a 250 tube res instead of the 150 I have


----------



## pshootr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Reaper28*
> 
> I've been through 4 RMA''s with Corsair for a destroyed 750D since Oct and still waiting for parts, unfortunately the quality is worse then the Luxe and willing to stay with it as long as nothing else happens. But at $170 things like this shouldn't happen a few mistakes are common or not controllable but that's not that much of an excuse. I've spent more time dealing with case problems then I have installing anything.


Wow, so the 750D has it's own share of issues I guess. Like i said other than the cheap clips for the top filter, I am very pleased with the Luxe so far.


----------



## Reaper28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Your right I was wrong for saying that. Well I hope things work out. I wish phanteks would come out with a side mount rad case I believe the xl will but I like the bottom ones like case labs and 900d bc of the looks and being able to build / mod a mid plate


Yeah that would actually be cool.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pshootr*
> 
> Wow, so the 750D has it's own share of issues I guess. Like i said other than the cheap clips for the top filter, I am very pleased with the Luxe so far.


Yeah, pretty much the entire front panel had defects or was damaged in shipping and the retailer wouldn't help so I went through Corsair having to fill out one RMA after another and even one of those parts showed up damaged. I finally said screw it after its been three months of waiting for another RMA part. So far case quality is not even close to the Luxe. Side panel is heavier, case seems more "secure" because of the weight of it. The 750D quality is almost near my Antec 300 at half the price.


----------



## benbenkr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pshootr*
> 
> I have the Phanteks Enthoo Luxe, and I can not get the rear portion of the top filter panel to stay down, it just springs back up. The two cleats on the panel are not broken but they will not lock in to the female slots (clips), so after pressing them down they just spring rite back up. I have tried many times to get them to lock in place. This is really annoying.
> 
> I noticed some others have had issues with this as well, I guess I will have to call them to see if they will send me some replacement clips.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Otherwise, I really like this case. My window does has a very small blemish on the inside, nothing major but still a little disappointing. And I don't know how because the accessory box was tied down. Go figure.


There's a pressure point right dead centre on the just slightly from the edge of release latch that you MUST press to get the clips locked in place. It's very tricky to do so (which is also extremely annoying and stupid), your clips aren't broken. I had this issue when I first got my Luxe too and spent a good hour just trying to find the exact point to press so that the top panel will pop off or pop on.

One more thing, BOTH clips must lock AT THE SAME TIME. Otherwise, if it's just one clip being locked and the other not being in place, the unlocked clip will never get clipped in no matter how many times you press on the top panel.

It's an extremely amateur design that shouldn't have appeared in a case of this price, considering almost the rest of case being of such great quality.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *benbenkr*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *pshootr*
> 
> I have the Phanteks Enthoo Luxe, and I can not get the rear portion of the top filter panel to stay down, it just springs back up. The two cleats on the panel are not broken but they will not lock in to the female slots (clips), so after pressing them down they just spring rite back up. I have tried many times to get them to lock in place. This is really annoying.
> 
> I noticed some others have had issues with this as well, I guess I will have to call them to see if they will send me some replacement clips.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Otherwise, I really like this case. My window does has a very small blemish on the inside, nothing major but still a little disappointing. And I don't know how because the accessory box was tied down. Go figure.
> 
> 
> 
> There's a pressure point right dead centre on the just slightly from the edge of release latch that you MUST press to get the clips locked in place. It's very tricky to do so (which is also extremely annoying and stupid), your clips aren't broken. I had this issue when I first got my Luxe too and spent a good hour just trying to find the exact point to press so that the top panel will pop off or pop on.
> 
> One more thing, BOTH clips must lock AT THE SAME TIME. Otherwise, if it's just one clip being locked and the other not being in place, the unlocked clip will never get clipped in no matter how many times you press on the top panel.
> 
> It's an extremely amateur design that shouldn't have appeared in a case of this price, considering almost the rest of case being of such great quality.
Click to expand...

Actually, once the latches are stripped out they will no longer clip into place. If, without the filter cover off and out of the way, you still cannot push the latch all the way in with a small screwdriver until it stops and have it stay latched down, then your latch is stripped out and no good. If the latch is good and working properly it is very easy to push in with a small screwdriver and have it click into a closed position, and push again and it pop out. It's when it won't push in and stay you have a problem. That's exactly what has happened to every latch of mine that stripped out and why it needed replaced..

It's very easy to strip out the push latches that hold in the front filter panel cover on the Enthoo Primo. All you have to do is not remove that rectangular filter panel cover before you remove the entire front panel of the case. As soon as you pull the entire front panel off, pulling from the bottom just as it shows in the manual, that little filter cover will go flying as soon as the panel it's clipped into pops free from the chassis, and as soon as it does it's highly likely that you have just ruined those latches and they will no longer push in and stay no matter what you do. That filter panel weighs too much for those little latches to hold it in place. The manual really should say to remove it first before trying to remove the whole front panel with it still in place like their image shows.



Spoiler: Phanteks Enthoo Primo manual panel removal







I've not yet had any problems with the latches for the filter cover on top of the case. When it was new it was a bit difficult / tight to push in right above each latch to get them to pop up and similarly tight & difficult to push them back into place, but once I got used to it and they got a bit broken in they got significantly easier the more times I did it.

In any case I don't worry too much about stripping one of the latches out again since after having to wait 3 weeks with my brand new Enthoo Primo case missing the front filter cover for Phanteks support to send me some new ones, I went out since and bought a handful just so I have them on hand if/when any more fail (and unfortunately, yes, I've had two more of the latches fail since that first time when dummy me did the exact same thing and forgot to remove the filter panel before popping the case front panel free again. Thankfully the second time I had latches to replace them.)


----------



## WhitePrQjser

Hi, everybody!

I've got a question. Can I fit a 54 mm. thick Hardware Labs radiator in the bottom + 2x 25 mm. thick fans and still have the PSU cover installed? I would hate fore the cover to be removed since it really helps making the build look clean.

Thanks in advance!


----------



## Reaper28

Making some progress, will probably order some spare clips tomorrow.

inb4 create own thread







just showing off my Luxe..


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WhitePrQjser*
> 
> Hi, everybody!
> 
> I've got a question. Can I fit a 54 mm. thick Hardware Labs radiator in the bottom + 2x 25 mm. thick fans and still have the PSU cover installed? I would hate fore the cover to be removed since it really helps making the build look clean.
> 
> Thanks in advance!


if you mean a 54mm thick 240 rad and 2 25mm thick fans next to each other , yes. if you mean push/pull (which is what I think you mean) then no, you cannot. the psu cover allows for a 60mm thick rad and single set of fans max. 86mm between the bottom of the psu cover and the floor of the case.


----------



## WhitePrQjser

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PureBlackFire*
> 
> if you mean a 54mm thick 240 rad and 2 25mm thick fans next to each other , yes. if you mean push/pull (which is what I think you mean) then no, you cannot. the psu cover allows for a 60mm thick rad and single set of fans max. 86mm between the bottom of the psu cover and the floor of the case.


No, I meant like a rad, and the two fans on top of it next to each other. So that would work?


----------



## Reaper28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WhitePrQjser*
> 
> No, I meant like a rad, and the two fans on top of it next to each other. So that would work?


>the psu cover allows for a 60mm thick rad and single set of fans max. 86mm between the bottom of the psu cover and the floor of the case.
from PureBlackFire

If you mean in the Luxe or Pro, then that seems right^


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WhitePrQjser*
> 
> No, I meant like a rad, and the two fans on top of it next to each other. So that would work?


you mean like.... fans one one side? yes, that will work. if it's a 240 rad one fan will be covered, but it will fit under the psu cover. of course, that still depends on your psu cable being in the way or not. there won't be a height issue with the psu cover.


----------



## emsj86

Well if it allows 60mm and you have 54mm rad and 25mm fan. That would be more than 60mm so no it won't. Your using the psu cover on the luxe/pro with a rad wouldn't that cause bad performance. Unless your talking primo. If it's the luxe/pro I'd put it up front if you want to keep the psu cover


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

I don't have a Luxe or Pro case but if there's "86mm between the bottom of the psu cover and the floor of the case", then a 54mm thick rad w/ 25mm thick fans would be 79mm. Is the 7mm of space left going to be enough for airflow? It sounds like I'd at least be tempted to drill a bunch of holes in that PSU cover if I was going to do something like that.

edit: lol, ninja'd by emsj86


----------



## PureBlackFire

question, where can i buy the 240 rad bracket for the Enthoo Primo? and will it fit in the side of the Luxe? guess I should ask that first.


----------



## shanker

White Monsoon fittings, 420mm rad with nine total Phanteks 140mm PWMs, Bitspower 150MM res, Swiftech MCP50X cooling an R290 with Swiftech Komodo, and an Apogee cooling a 4670K. No overclock...yet.

Tomorrow night is tubing then fill and leak check.


----------



## WhitePrQjser

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Reaper28*
> 
> >the psu cover allows for a 60mm thick rad and single set of fans max. 86mm between the bottom of the psu cover and the floor of the case.
> from PureBlackFire
> 
> If you mean in the Luxe or Pro, then that seems right^


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PureBlackFire*
> 
> you mean like.... fans one one side? yes, that will work. if it's a 240 rad one fan will be covered, but it will fit under the psu cover. of course, that still depends on your psu cable being in the way or not. there won't be a height issue with the psu cover.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Well if it allows 60mm and you have 54mm rad and 25mm fan. That would be more than 60mm so no it won't. Your using the psu cover on the luxe/pro with a rad wouldn't that cause bad performance. Unless your talking primo. If it's the luxe/pro I'd put it up front if you want to keep the psu cover


Now I'm unsure of what to do. I don't know if I should get the thick rad, and remove the cover, or get a thinner rad, and keep the cover on. Dang it!


----------



## WhitePrQjser

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> I don't have a Luxe or Pro case but if there's "86mm between the bottom of the psu cover and the floor of the case", then a 54mm thick rad w/ 25mm thick fans would be 79mm. Is the 7mm of space left going to be enough for airflow? It sounds like I'd at least be tempted to drill a bunch of holes in that PSU cover if I was going to do something like that.
> 
> edit: lol, ninja'd by emsj86


Yeah, those 7 mm. really aren't good for the flow


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shanker*
> 
> 
> 
> White Monsoon fittings, 420mm rad with nine total Phanteks 140mm PWMs, Bitspower 150MM res, Swiftech MCP50X cooling an R290 with Swiftech Komodo, and an Apogee cooling a 4670K. No overclock...yet.
> 
> Tomorrow night is tubing then fill and leak check.


man those fittings are definately contrast







and can you even put a piece of paper between the res and graphics card cooler







i have a feeling thats how mines gonna be when i get a 290x


----------



## shanker

FYI you can four sheets of paper in there! I'm using a blue coolant so the hope is it turns out awesome. If not I'll toss it in the trash and become, move to Pennsylvania, and become Amish. It seems drastic but anything worth doing is worth overdoing.


----------



## pshootr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Actually, once the latches are stripped out they will no longer clip into place. If, without the filter cover off and out of the way, you still cannot push the latch all the way in with a small screwdriver until it stops and have it stay latched down, then your latch is stripped out and no good. If the latch is good and working properly it is very easy to push in with a small screwdriver and have it click into a closed position, and push again and it pop out. It's when it won't push in and stay you have a problem. That's exactly what has happened to every latch of mine that stripped out and why it needed replaced..
> 
> It's very easy to strip out the push latches that hold in the front filter panel cover on the Enthoo Primo. All you have to do is not remove that rectangular filter panel cover before you remove the entire front panel of the case. As soon as you pull the entire front panel off, pulling from the bottom just as it shows in the manual, that little filter cover will go flying as soon as the panel it's clipped into pops free from the chassis, and as soon as it does it's highly likely that you have just ruined those latches and they will no longer push in and stay no matter what you do. That filter panel weighs too much for those little latches to hold it in place. The manual really should say to remove it first before trying to remove the whole front panel with it still in place like their image shows.
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Phanteks Enthoo Primo manual panel removal
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've not yet had any problems with the latches for the filter cover on top of the case. When it was new it was a bit difficult / tight to push in right above each latch to get them to pop up and similarly tight & difficult to push them back into place, but once I got used to it and they got a bit broken in they got significantly easier the more times I did it.
> 
> In any case I don't worry too much about stripping one of the latches out again since after having to wait 3 weeks with my brand new Enthoo Primo case missing the front filter cover for Phanteks support to send me some new ones, I went out since and bought a handful just so I have them on hand if/when any more fail (and unfortunately, yes, I've had two more of the latches fail since that first time when dummy me did the exact same thing and forgot to remove the filter panel before popping the case front panel free again. Thankfully the second time I had latches to replace them.)


My clips will not lock in to place while testing with a small screwdriver, so yes apparently they are stripped. I will contact Phanteks, but out of curiosity where did you find the extra clips you bought? I may try and pick some up to have on hand as well. Would love to buy them local.


----------



## pshootr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Reaper28*
> 
> Making some progress, will probably order some spare clips tomorrow.
> 
> inb4 create own thread
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> just showing off my Luxe..


It is a sweet case isn't it







I love your red exhaust fan


----------



## Reaper28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WhitePrQjser*
> 
> Yeah, those 7 mm. really aren't good for the flow


I just measured my Luxe, 86mm is correct. Personally I like it without the PSU cover, if a few wires show so be it. When you pay $180+ for a PSU and another $150+ for a rad I would want to show it off (in my system anyways)









@pshootr, Thanks


----------



## WhitePrQjser

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Reaper28*
> 
> I just measured my Luxe, 86mm is correct. Personally I like it without the PSU cover, if a few wires show so be it. When you pay $180 for a PSU and another $150+ for a rad I would want to show it off
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> @pshootr, Thanks


That's very true. You make a compelling argument. I might rethinkg the PSU cover then. Can I buy a shorter cover somewhere?


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WhitePrQjser*
> 
> That's very true. You make a compelling argument. I might rethinkg the PSU cover then. Can I buy a shorter cover somewhere?


cut it.


----------



## WhitePrQjser

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PureBlackFire*
> 
> cut it.


I won't do that, but it could've been an option


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shanker*
> 
> 
> 
> White Monsoon fittings, 420mm rad with nine total Phanteks 140mm PWMs, Bitspower 150MM res, Swiftech MCP50X cooling an R290 with Swiftech Komodo, and an Apogee cooling a 4670K. No overclock...yet.
> 
> Tomorrow night is tubing then fill and leak check.


Which case is this pro or luxe? Edit: nvm it's a lux seeing you have push pull up top duh. It's your choice but seeing the psu cover grommet is in a bad spot you can run those gpu cables through the back for a cleaner look unless you like it that way. Nice build looks a lot like my build with the same res and pump. I removed my psu cover to mount rad on the floor which I plan on moving to the front and putting the cover back or mounting pump to a un horizontal bracket and going 250 res.


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WhitePrQjser*
> 
> I won't do that, but it could've been an option


If you cut it which I think I will do for mine to keep the rad on the bottom get 3m carbon wrap and wrap it to get rid of any scratches or paint it


----------



## Jedicake

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dikong*
> 
> maybe it was too big and I do not like it because it takes up too much space.
> 
> Dikong
> Thanks


What.


----------



## fahmicious

I'm looking to pick up the enthoo evolv, but wondering if the swiftech h240x will fit (the 280mm version) in it?


----------



## dsmwookie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fahmicious*
> 
> I'm looking to pick up the enthoo evolv, but wondering if the swiftech h240x will fit (the 280mm version) in it?


Yes.


----------



## emsj86

So alittle ot but I have a 850 watt that semi modular. I want a full modular psu. For those running a oc i7 and 780/980 card. How much watts do I need. I have a single oc 780 and may go two 980 in the future.


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> So alittle ot but I have a 850 watt that semi modular. I want a full modular psu. For those running a oc i7 and 780/980 card. How much watts do I need. I have a single oc 780 and may go two 980 in the future.


for a system with a single oc gtx780 you'd need a 550 watt. for dual 980 system a 650 watt.


----------



## dikkiedirk

Will a 360 rad with >40 thickness fit in the top of a Enthoo Pro or Luxe? Will I lose the upper 5.25 bay anyhow?


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dikkiedirk*
> 
> Will a 360 rad with >40 thickness fit in the top of a Enthoo Pro or Luxe? Will I lose the upper 5.25 bay anyhow?


depending on what goes in the top bay a 45mm thick 360 rad won't block it. A 60mm will prevent from using the top 5.25" bay.


----------



## ZealotKi11er

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dikkiedirk*
> 
> Will a 360 rad with >40 thickness fit in the top of a Enthoo Pro or Luxe? Will I lose the upper 5.25 bay anyhow?


They cant fit more then a slim RAD and a set of Fans. I have RS360 plus push fans and it's very close.


----------



## emsj86

I use the slim xspc 360 as well in pull only. Unless i use 15mm gelid slim fans push pull isn't an option. But u can do push pull up front or bottom


----------



## waveaddict

As posted before,you can put a layer of fans in the Luxe under the top fan filter and still put a 60mm rad in push,the PRO you can't.


----------



## Reaper28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *waveaddict*
> 
> As posted before,you can put a layer of fans in the Luxe under the top fan filter and still put a 60mm rad in push,the PRO you can't.


This. Also depending on how long or wide your rad is you may still lose a part of the 5.25 bay(s)


----------



## pshootr

I see so much talk about CPU-NB voltage. Are these settings desirable for getting faster RAM speeds stable, or for getting high CPU clocks stable even with standard RAM speeds, or just for running the NB higher, what is the main reason everyone is so concerned over this?

Edit:
Crap, wrong thread! Sorry guys.

This has been posted in the correct thread now, and may be deleted. Sorry, and thank you.


----------



## shanker

Filled and leak testing.


----------



## pshootr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shanker*
> 
> 
> 
> Filled and leak testing.


Looking nice man. I am actually an air guy, but I must admit all these loop pics are making me just a wee bit jelly


----------



## squeakeasy

Hi guys
Only just discovered the primo and im in love with the aesthetics... And size matters too.

I have a couple of questions though, i have 2 non ref design gtx780s in sli, and its really their high temps (mid 80s) which has me looking for a case in the first place, and ive not the budget or know how for watercooling beyond my h100, which i kno doesn't count lol. Would the pair of 140 front intakes + floor intake, top and back exhausts do the job? Or would the right case side bracket be of benefit too, either as intake or exhaust? Or would all this be overkill and i should be thinking more luxe with its bigger intake fan?

2nd part of this long winded question... Anywhere i could stick an air penetrator 180mm in this beast? Id hate to lose it


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shanker*
> 
> 
> 
> Filled and leak testing.


Looking the use what is that mayhem x1 blue?


----------



## jameschisholm

All this talk about the Luxe arriving damaged in some way has really put me off the case. how wide spread is the problem?


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *squeakeasy*
> 
> Hi guys
> Only just discovered the primo and im in love with the aesthetics... And size matters too.
> 
> I have a couple of questions though, i have 2 non ref design gtx780s in sli, and its really their high temps (mid 80s) which has me looking for a case in the first place, and ive not the budget or know how for watercooling beyond my h100, which i kno doesn't count lol. Would the pair of 140 front intakes + floor intake, top and back exhausts do the job? Or would the right case side bracket be of benefit too, either as intake or exhaust? Or would all this be overkill and i should be thinking more luxe with its bigger intake fan?
> 
> 2nd part of this long winded question... Anywhere i could stick an air penetrator 180mm in this beast? Id hate to lose it


What I did and I know it's not exactly the same but similar when I was on air was had two 140 up front. Than two 120 on the hdd cages (not sure if primo has that) and than a 140 on the bottom (primo will allow for more than one and that helped a lot dropped temps 20 degrees from. Previous rosewell case. Just an idea but should help because the bottom will literally bring fresh air right onto the cards. I'd even get the phanteks 140 mm static preasure to help with pulling air through the filter


----------



## RAROCK

Hi,

Just rebuilt and upgraded from a Corsair 650D to a Phanteks Enthoo Primo SE Black/Gold. WOW what an amazing difference the build quality and space is unreal.

My Specs

Phanteks Enthoo Primo SE Black/Gold
Msi Mpower mb
Intel I7 4770K o/c 4ghz
16gb Vengance Ram 1600mhz
2 x R9 290/290X in Crossfire
Superflower 1000w Platinum psu fully modular
Intel 480gb 720 ssd
intel 180gb 520 ssd
Corsair H100 Cooler
using corsair 4 x 120mm af120

Just waiting for my AX360 xpsc with photon/D5 Combo Reservoir to watercool this baby.

cpu 1st then when i can afford it the gpu's (also 1st watercool build, so going easy)


----------



## pshootr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RAROCK*
> 
> Hi,
> 
> Just rebuilt and upgraded from a Corsair 650D to a Phanteks Enthoo Primo SE Black/Gold. WOW what an amazing difference the build quality and space is unreal.
> 
> My Specs
> 
> Phanteks Enthoo Primo SE Black/Gold
> Msi Mpower mb
> Intel I7 4770K o/c 4ghz
> 16gb Vengance Ram 1600mhz
> 2 x R9 290/290X in Crossfire
> Superflower 1000w Platinum psu fully modular
> Intel 480gb 720 ssd
> intel 180gb 520 ssd
> Corsair H100 Cooler
> using corsair 4 x 120mm af120
> 
> Just waiting for my AX360 xpsc with photon/D5 Combo Reservoir to watercool this baby.
> 
> cpu 1st then when i can afford it the gpu's (also 1st watercool build, so going easy)


Wow, very nice looking rig. Tidy and clean looking, and the gold is a very nice touch. Where the heck is your PSU?


----------



## RAROCK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pshootr*
> 
> Wow, very nice looking rig. Tidy and clean looking, and the gold is a very nice touch. Where the heck is your PSU?


Thanks !!

The psu is hidden in the back, this case can take 2 psu's if you like. i love it. hated the white glowing connections on my superflow psu.


----------



## pshootr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jameschisholm*
> 
> All this talk about the Luxe arriving damaged in some way has really put me off the case. how wide spread is the problem?


Unfortunately, as you are already aware there have been many claims of this sort. However, it seems they may have got a little better at packaging. Mine came with the accessory kit tied down inside the case, having said that there is a very small blemish inside my window (hardly noticeable), I am not making a stink out of it. Aside from that the clips that hold the top filter down are fragile, so be careful removing/replacing the top filter panel. My chassis did not come with any scratches. Over all I am very pleased with it. And I have heard that the more expensive corsair cases are not built any better. Hope this helps.


----------



## pshootr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RAROCK*
> 
> Thanks !!
> 
> The psu is hidden in the back, this case can take 2 psu's if you like. i love it. hated the white glowing connections on my superflow psu.


Wow, the PSU is behind the MB? Case would have to be like two feet wide? lol Can you show a pic of your PSU please?


----------



## RAROCK

this was 1st fix, it's tidier now

case is only 250mm wide


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pshootr*
> 
> Wow, the PSU is behind the MB? Case would have to be like two feet wide? lol Can you show a pic of your PSU please?


no brother it's under it behind the cover with the grommets


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pshootr*
> 
> Wow, the PSU is behind the MB? Case would have to be like two feet wide? lol Can you show a pic of your PSU please?


I see you are unfamiliar with the Enthoo Primo. This <3 min vid covers a lot, including where the PSU is hidden.






Th isolated PSU, hidden HDD cages & SSD mounts makes the Enthoo Primo one of the best cases ever for cable management, not to mention all the built-in wastercooling adaptability.


----------



## pshootr

Ah I see. Thanks for the pic! Again very nice setup


----------



## Freaxy

The case is only 250mm wide, so nothing out of the ordinary.
But the design is really good, allowing for a very clean look and a lot of room for water cooling.
That's basicly the reason why I bought mine








Now i'm just waiting for EK to release the waterblocks for the Gigabyte GTX 980 Gaming G1 so I can start building mine








I really can't wait, checking EK's website multiple times a day to see if they are released.


----------



## Faster_is_better

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RAROCK*
> 
> Hi,
> 
> Just rebuilt and upgraded from a Corsair 650D to a Phanteks Enthoo Primo SE Black/Gold. WOW what an amazing difference the build quality and space is unreal.
> 
> My Specs
> 
> Phanteks Enthoo Primo SE Black/Gold
> Msi Mpower mb
> Intel I7 4770K o/c 4ghz
> 16gb Vengance Ram 1600mhz
> 2 x R9 290/290X in Crossfire
> Superflower 1000w Platinum psu fully modular
> Intel 480gb 720 ssd
> intel 180gb 520 ssd
> Corsair H100 Cooler
> using corsair 4 x 120mm af120
> 
> Just waiting for my AX360 xpsc with photon/D5 Combo Reservoir to watercool this baby.
> 
> cpu 1st then when i can afford it the gpu's (also 1st watercool build, so going easy)


Special Edition Gold, Nice. I don't believe I have seen one before this in the wild. It would be really cool if they did RGB and mass produced them a bit better, but I guess this is what you get with the high end niche cases and a smaller company.

Newegg keeps going in and OOS on the black, anywhere else is to expensive, but that special edition orange one is really sexy... If it ever gets a rebate/discount before the black one, then I may just pick it up.


----------



## pshootr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> I see you are unfamiliar with the Enthoo Primo. This <3 min vid covers a lot, including where the PSU is hidden.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Th isolated PSU, hidden HDD cages & SSD mounts makes the Enthoo Primo one of the best cases ever for cable management, not to mention all the built-in wastercooling adaptability.


Thank you. The primo is very nice indeed


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Really like the look of that black and gold case. That's a special edition only available from CaseKing in Germany I believe.

edit:
Here's the PM I got from Brian-Phanteks a while back regarding the two-tone special edition cases.
Quote:


> Right now only the orange edition is available in the US. There was a special version made specifically for CaseKing. They are one of the largest distributor/retailers in Europe. The Black and gold version is their exclusive case. There has been talk of white and red special editions but information about availability is not yet known.


So unless you want to work out what I suspect would be some seriously costly shipping from Germany, I wouldn't hold my breath for a black and gold edition Primo in North America.


----------



## squeakeasy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> What I did and I know it's not exactly the same but similar when I was on air was had two 140 up front. Than two 120 on the hdd cages (not sure if primo has that) and than a 140 on the bottom (primo will allow for more than one and that helped a lot dropped temps 20 degrees from. Previous rosewell case. Just an idea but should help because the bottom will literally bring fresh air right onto the cards. I'd even get the phanteks 140 mm static preasure to help with pulling air through the filter


Thanks emsj, I did not expect the bottom intakes to have such a drastic affect so that's good to know. Any idea whether the right case side rad bracket with just a couple of fans would make any difference? Either as a good spot for the h100 or perhaps providing intake just below a top mounted h100 exhaust/pull? Though again, its my gpu temps I'm most concerned with.


----------



## RAROCK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Really like the look of that black and gold case. That's a special edition only available from CaseKing in Germany I believe.
> 
> edit:
> Here's the PM I got from Brian-Phanteks a while back regarding the two-tone special edition cases.
> So unless you want to work out what I suspect would be some seriously costly shipping from Germany, I wouldn't hold my breath for a black and gold edition Primo in North America.


interesting, i got this from overclockers in the u.k £200.00 gbp


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RAROCK*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Really like the look of that black and gold case. That's a special edition only available from CaseKing in Germany I believe.
> 
> edit:
> Here's the PM I got from Brian-Phanteks a while back regarding the two-tone special edition cases.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Right now only the orange edition is available in the US. There was a special version made specifically for CaseKing. They are one of the largest distributor/retailers in Europe. The Black and gold version is their exclusive case. There has been talk of white and red special editions but information about availability is not yet known.
> 
> 
> 
> So unless you want to work out what I suspect would be some seriously costly shipping from Germany, I wouldn't hold my breath for a black and gold edition Primo in North America.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> interesting, i got this from overclockers in the u.k £200.00 gbp
Click to expand...

That is interesting.

I did see quite a few people were posting in overclockers.co.uk's forums asking about the black and gold editions. I assume they got tired of so many people asking and worked out something with Caseking to get some.

@ £200 incl VAT that's not too bad. Caseking wants 230 € = £180 = $276 currently though always fluctuating.
No idea what either Caseking or overclockers would want to ship to the US, assuming they even would, but it's a safe bet it wouldn't be cheap.


----------



## Faster_is_better

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Really like the look of that black and gold case. That's a special edition only available from CaseKing in Germany I believe.
> 
> edit:
> Here's the PM I got from Brian-Phanteks a while back regarding the two-tone special edition cases.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Right now only the orange edition is available in the US. There was a special version made specifically for CaseKing. They are one of the largest distributor/retailers in Europe. The Black and gold version is their exclusive case. There has been talk of white and red special editions but information about availability is not yet known.
> 
> 
> 
> So unless you want to work out what I suspect would be some seriously costly shipping from Germany, I wouldn't hold my breath for a black and gold edition Primo in North America.
Click to expand...

I got a similar response when I asked a while ago. Basically TBA on any different color schemes to be released in US. It's kind of interesting they released Orange first here, I think a Black/Red version would be a top seller competing with the standard Black case easily. But really any/all of the SE cases look great, the accent colors give some great contrast.


----------



## Cloudy

I really want to pick up the Primo, but I feel like Phanteks will drop something at CES that'll make me regret it.


----------



## emsj86

yeh the enthoo xl looks sick but thats bc i like that its not crazy big but offers almost everything the primo can in a smaller form


----------



## emsj86

I was thinking either getting an acrylic pump top and nickel heatsink or get acrylic pump top, nickel heatsink and ddc 250ml res upgrade that connects to ddc and move bottom rad up front. What do you think would look best?


----------



## shanker

Pump makes a little more noise than expected but if I have my speakers on I cant hear it. I game with headphones anyway. I ran Valley at 1440P for an hour and with the pump/fans running off the Swiftech PWM hub and Asus motherboard software on standard the CPU hit mid 30s and the VRMs on the 290 hit 43 degrees. Not super scientific but it really cool at low noise which is what I wanted.


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shanker*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Pump makes a little more noise than expected but if I have my speakers on I cant hear it. I game with headphones anyway. I ran Valley at 1440P for an hour and with the pump/fans running off the Swiftech PWM hub and Asus motherboard software on standard the CPU hit mid 30s and the VRMs on the 290 hit 43 degrees. Not super scientific but it really cool at low noise which is what I wanted.


i had the mcp50x it shouldnt be really heard much at all if you have it set at 80 percent or under. Mine was loud for awhile, which turned out to be bc it was vibrating through the hdd cages. I have my res set up the same way. add a pad under the pump and add rubber washer on the res clips. just adding the rubber washers on the res clips made a huge difference in noise. I thought it was my pump for a month than i tried the rubber washers and boom problem solved i bet it will work for you since your pump res is like mine


----------



## madmalkav

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Has anyone tried removing the rubber feet from the bottom of their Primo? I'm assuming they are glued into their recesses. I'm contemplating peeling them out of there but only if they'll come out without too much trouble without damaging the case and hopefully in one piece so I can reuse them. I would like to make some taller feet for the case (probably from some acetyl/delrin) that will fit in those recesses and have similar recesses in the bottom of them to replace the rubber feet into.


Have you made any advance on this?


----------



## Reaper28

I keep wanting to stick a 420 in my Luxe even though I know it won't fit, the Nemesis rad anyways even if I remove the HDD/ODD side wall I will still be at least 5mm short...damn you Hardware Labs!. I want to stick a 420 in it to be a little different because everyone is using a 360 & 240. All well


----------



## theoblivinator

I put a 420x45mm alpha cool rad in the top of my luxe. Fits just fine.


----------



## shanker

I have the 420mm Nemesis in my Luxe but its 5mm too wide for the 5.25" supports, I needed to hack a half inch off to get it to sit and also one the ports on the rad was blocked by my motherboard so I had to turn it around.

I went from two 240s to a 420 and got better temps with less noise. No regrets.


----------



## Reaper28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *theoblivinator*
> 
> I put a 420x45mm alpha cool rad in the top of my luxe. Fits just fine.


The Alpha is about 5mm shorter so that wouldn't be a problem, trying to stay away from Alpha rads though if I can..just a personal preference


----------



## Reaper28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shanker*
> 
> I have the 420mm Nemesis in my Luxe but its 5mm too wide for the 5.25" supports, I needed to hack a half inch off to get it to sit and also one the ports on the rad was blocked by my motherboard so I had to turn it around.
> 
> I went from two 240s to a 420 and got better temps with less noise. No regrets.


Got any pics?. I tried figuring out where it would come to by lining up 140mm fans and measuring the 55mm inside but still not the same with out the rad in to test fit lol


----------



## shilka

Anyone else in here that have problems with their side panel on the Luxe making buzzing noises?
Mine has that problem and it does not stop unless you smack the side panel which is rather annoying.


----------



## hht92

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> Anyone else in here that have problems with their side panel on the Luxe making buzzing noises?
> Mine has that problem and it does not stop unless you smack the side panel which is rather annoying.


Make sure the screws of the side panel are tide.


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hht92*
> 
> Make sure the screws of the side panel are tide.


They already are.


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> Anyone else in here that have problems with their side panel on the Luxe making buzzing noises?
> Mine has that problem and it does not stop unless you smack the side panel which is rather annoying.


heard of this issue but don't have it myself. only thing went wrong on my case was the usb 3 port never worked and the audio header stopped working. the side panel thing means it's lose. either you haven't secured the screws properly







or the panel doesn't quite fit the space. I would prefer if they put a thin rubber strip on the side panels. there are some gaps at the corners.


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PureBlackFire*
> 
> heard of this issue but don't have it myself. only thing went wrong on my case was the usb 3 port never worked and the audio header stopped working. the side panel thing means it's lose. either you haven't secured the screws properly
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> or the panel doesn't quite fit the space. I would prefer if they put a thin rubber strip on the side panels. there are some gaps at the corners.


Strange thing is it stops buzzing when i give it a smack and only starts again when i have had the PC off for a few hours.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> Strange thing is it stops buzzing when i give it a smack and only starts again when i have had the PC off for a few hours.


that's odd.. Where are you smacking it to stop the noise and does it matter where?


----------



## PureBlackFire

it sounds like you're hitting the door back into place and it gradually slips out of place over time.


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> that's odd.. Where are you smacking it to stop the noise and does it matter where?


Seems to work best if i hit the lower front corner, so it might be a little bit bent or something.


----------



## sugalumps

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> Anyone else in here that have problems with their side panel on the Luxe making buzzing noises?
> Mine has that problem and it does not stop unless you smack the side panel which is rather annoying.


Yup I had that aswel as all the other problems/quality defects that made me rma it. Check out phanteks own forums, there are alot of reports of this buzzing.

Could even be your top mesh........
http://phanteks.com/forum/showthread.php?155-Upper-mesh-vibrating-like-hell

I must be a glutton for punishment as I am considering getting the luxe again even after the bad quality one I recieved, the only thing that really bothers me about this case is as an air cooler the front intake is very restricted and terrible for air intake. I tested it both on and off and it made a big difference to the air brought in, but the panel off makes it look terrible.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *PureBlackFire*
> 
> heard of this issue but don't have it myself. only thing went wrong on my case was the usb 3 port never worked and the audio header stopped working. the side panel thing means it's lose. either you haven't secured the screws properly
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> or the panel doesn't quite fit the space. I would prefer if they put a thin rubber strip on the side panels. there are some gaps at the corners.
> 
> 
> 
> Strange thing is it stops buzzing when i give it a smack and only starts again when i have had the PC off for a few hours.
Click to expand...

Do you actually have to smack the case?

I've had buzzing headphone jack before that was caused bad grounding or something inside my EVGA 1300 G2 PSU (I assume because the issue went away when I replaced the PSU). All I had to do was touch the case and the buzzing would stop. It wasn't a short, er even a static electricity enough I every felt a static zap, but clearly me just grounding it out for a second or two would make the issue go away, only to slowly return hours later. I stuck in an AX1200 and the issue was gone and has never returned. I was able to get a replacement PSU from EVGA but when I stuck it back in the case in less than a week it did the same exact thing. I now only use it in my bench whenever I have something going with it.


----------



## Spork13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sugalumps*
> 
> Yup I had that aswel as all the other problems/quality defects that made me rma it. Check out phanteks own forums, there are alot of reports of this buzzing.
> 
> Could even be your top mesh........
> http://phanteks.com/forum/showthread.php?155-Upper-mesh-vibrating-like-hell
> 
> I must be a glutton for punishment as I am considering getting the luxe again even after the bad quality one I recieved, the only thing that really bothers me about this case is as an air cooler the front intake is very restricted and terrible for air intake. I tested it both on and off and it made a big difference to the air brought in, but the panel off makes it look terrible.


If you are air cooling, why not get the pro?
Don't need to be able to fit the extra fans up top. Front panel is mesh = better air flow.
Saves a few $ too.
LED's are cheap, and you can just get the colour you want instead of having to keep changing it (unless you like the default red).


----------



## sugalumps

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spork13*
> 
> If you are air cooling, why not get the pro?
> Don't need to be able to fit the extra fans up top. Front panel is mesh = better air flow.
> Saves a few $ too.
> LED's are cheap, and you can just get the colour you want instead of having to keep changing it (unless you like the default red).


Yup I do like the pros front panel better BUT:

Build quality on the luxe is much better(materials)
The led strip looks amazing
The pros side window sucks in quality
The top panel feature on the luxe really is amazing, you just press down on the pressure springs and up it comes. No need to take the full top panel off like the pro.

I could go without the led strip and the top panel if I had to, but build quality really matters when we are shopping for the best quality case within the price brackets. If I was on a tight budget the pro would make sense as it costs £80-£90 but I can go up to £150 which puts the luxe and better build quality cases in my budget.


----------



## emsj86

Is the luxe or primo side panel really better than the pro ? I thought the pro and luxe were the same chasis and side panels


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Is the luxe or primo side panel really better than the pro ? I thought the pro and luxe were the same chasis and side panels


the pro and luxe side panels are identical and interchangeable. it is the same case aside from front/top panels and other accessories.


----------



## Redeye247

Finally got round to doing my build. There were a few things I wished I had done, but overall I am quite happy with it. Managed to get my Monsta 360 in up top. Not too bothered about having the fans in push/pull as I am pretty pleased with my temps. Any advice welcome, as I am by no means an expert when it comes to watercooling


----------



## OutlawII

Is that a clear side panel?


----------



## Redeye247

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OutlawII*
> 
> Is that a clear side panel?


It is a smoked window. It was the one that came with the case. I think the light makes it look clear.


----------



## sugalumps

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Is the luxe or primo side panel really better than the pro ? I thought the pro and luxe were the same chasis and side panels


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PureBlackFire*
> 
> the pro and luxe side panels are identical and interchangeable. it is the same case aside from front/top panels and other accessories.


They are the same size and style, but he is asking about quality differences which there is for sure. According to every review out there the pros side window and panel lacks in quality and the window is rubbish and scratches easily in comparison to the luxe. Which I guess makes sense since its the same price as a mid tower at full tower size and the build quality has been reduced over all to cut £30 off the case.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

There is no difference between the side panels on the Luxe or the Pro. They are exactly the same. Where is there a review that says the window in the Luxe is better?

I do know that more people have complained about getting a scratched up window on their Pro because that case got released first and Phanteks had, and still has, issues with the parts box inside not having been secured so was bouncing around inside and causing scratches. I'm not sure but I think that was an issue only with the Pro, or at least I know I've seen quite a few here mention the issue with their Pro but not sure I recall seeing anyone have the same issue with their Luxe.


----------



## PureBlackFire

any supposed difference between side panels on the Pro and Luxe is pure fantasy. my window doesn't scratch easily, but it has that milky/cloudy crap. they just have a quality control problem. Like Unicr0nhunter said, the Pro came out first and it's easy to guess that it sells at a higher rate being $50 cheaper. bigger pool of to get more cases of poor side panel windows.


----------



## sugalumps

Both linus and hardwarecanucks both say the pros side panel specifially the window portion lacks quality, they have tested both the pro and the luxe. Have both of you had both the luxe and the pro and compared the side panels directly? As the reviewers have had and tested both and can attest to the quality differences.

Trust me, the reason there is a luxurious version is not just an led strip and a ssd bracket, it's the build quality that sets them apart.

There is also complaints about the pros window in the phanteks forums about the window not being the same quality all over it, I.e some parts are smokier than others with big splotches.


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sugalumps*
> 
> Both linus and hardwarecanucks both say the pros side panel specifially the window portion lacks quality, they have tested both the pro and the luxe. Have both of you had both the luxe and the pro and compared the side panels directly? As the reviewers have had and tested both and can attest to the quality differences.
> 
> Trust me, the reason there is a luxurious version is not just an led strip and a ssd bracket, it's the build quality that sets them apart.


I trust myself who owns a Luxe and did 3 builds in the Pro. they are the same same. and I can tell you for certain that Dimitry didn't mention anything negative about the Enthoo Pro's window panel, nor did he remark at all about it on his review of the Luxe. if you have anything to link that actually proves this theory of yours is based in reality you have yet to show it.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

I have the Pro and the more I see Primo builds on here the more I want one...my psu and 280 rad on the bottom I'm honestly not sure how I made it fit.... this would be a non issue with the Primo.... my cable management went to hell with the new psu from thicker cables and less space for routing.....I just like the pros looks so much more. ... decisions decisions


----------



## sugalumps

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PureBlackFire*
> 
> I trust myself who owns a Luxe and did 3 builds in the Pro. they are the same same. and I can tell you for certain that Dimitry didn't mention anything negative about the Enthoo Pro's window panel, nor did he remark at all about it on his review of the Luxe. if you have anything to link that actually proves this theory of yours is based in reality you have yet to show it.


Are you saying the build quality and the same quality/level of materials are used on both the luxe and the pro?!
I though they used different materials setting them both apart. Again the difference can noyt only be an led strip and an ssd bracket.

Linus's video(I know he is hated round here for some reason) shows infact that the window is low in quality and scratches easily, which was my "proof" or w/e you want to call it.


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sugalumps*
> 
> Are you saying the build quality and the same quality/level of materials are used on both the luxe and the pro?!


outside of the aluminium on the front and top panels of the Luxe, that's exactly what I'm saying. if you don't believe people with experience in this matter, just send a pm to the local Phanteks rep and await the same answers you've been getting from us.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *madmalkav*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Has anyone tried removing the rubber feet from the bottom of their Primo? I'm assuming they are glued into their recesses. I'm contemplating peeling them out of there but only if they'll come out without too much trouble without damaging the case and hopefully in one piece so I can reuse them. I would like to make some taller feet for the case (probably from some acetyl/delrin) that will fit in those recesses and have similar recesses in the bottom of them to replace the rubber feet into.
> 
> 
> 
> Have you made any advance on this?
Click to expand...

Sorry I missed your post until just now. I do now have a slab of 20mm thick acetyl now that I'm planning to make new case feet out of ...



... but it'll have to wait until I finish a couple other projects first. I don't have access to a cnc, so this will be something I'm going to do by hand on a router table, and there's the real hold up because I just bought a new table saw and I'm just now gathering all the materials I'll need to make a new router table top to attach to the side of it to use with my Incra LS fence, the same setup I used to have on my old table saw, just I have to make a new wider router table top, and I bought a new Triton TRA001 router to go in it, and even when I do get the router table up and running again I'll first have to finish another project I started months ago, some new raised panel cabinet doors for the Mrs, before my old table saw decided to quit. Then, after all that, before I'll be able to rout on the small pieces for the case feet I'm going to have to make a router table sled with clamps to hold small parts, which is something I've been meaning to do anyway for a long time now.

So, long story short: I'm probably looking at a month or two if not longer before I get around to carving up this block of acetyl.


----------



## sugalumps

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PureBlackFire*
> 
> outside of the aluminium on the front and top panels of the Luxe, that's exactly what I'm saying. if you don't believe people with experience in this matter, just send a pm to the local Phanteks rep and await the same answers you've been getting from us.


No reason to be like that, the reason I used a question mark is I was genuinly asking you the difference as I thought it was full metal/aluminium w/e in the luxe vs brushed plastic in the pro. Hence the big difference in weight between the two cases, making the luxe a very very heavy case. Again I am sure the £30+ price difference is not for an extra ssd bracket and a led strip.





3.05 linus's video - talks about what I keep mentioning and the only reason I have reservations of dropping down to the pro from the damaged luxe I just sent back.
"The quality of the acrylic here is so poor it looks like it belongs to a two year old case".


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sugalumps*
> 
> No reason to be like that, the reason I used a question mark is I was genuinly asking you the difference as I thought it was full metal/aluminium w/e in the luxe vs brushed plastic in the pro. Hence the big difference in weight between the two cases, making the luxe a very very heavy case. Again I am sure the £30+ price difference is not for an extra ssd bracket and a led strip.


be like what? you could get a satisfactory answer from somone who works for the company. the difference between the Pro and Luxe is:

- LED strips
- extra SSD bracket
- extra pump bracket
- aluminium panels (front/top)

from Phanteks' perspective, does having sturdier side panels and windows on the Luxe make any sense financially? the small amount of aluminium on the Luxe probably adds $25 to the b.o.m.


----------



## owcraftsman

Phanteks Announces Enthoo Mini XL Chassis

Looks awesome.

On another note my bubble was burst today when I saw this.

also looks awesome


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sugalumps*
> 
> No reason to be like that, the reason I used a question mark is I was genuinly asking you the difference as I thought it was full metal/aluminium w/e in the luxe vs brushed plastic in the pro. Hence the big difference in weight between the two cases, making the luxe a very very heavy case. Again I am sure the £30+ price difference is not for an extra ssd bracket and a led strip.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 3.05 linus's video - talks about what I keep mentioning and the only reason I have reservations of dropping down to the pro from the damaged luxe I just sent back.
> "The quality of the acrylic here is so poor it looks like it belongs to a two year old case".


The Luxe and Pro use the same side panel. Same material, same window.

And I put absolutely zero weight in anything Linus says. Frankly, he's so skewed that if he said the sky was blue, I would first wonder who paid him to say it, them wonder what color it actually is.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *owcraftsman*
> 
> Phanteks Announces Enthoo Mini XL Chassis
> 
> Looks awesome.
> 
> On another note my bubble was burst today when I saw this.
> 
> also looks awesome


The Enthoo Mini is pretty amazing. I was really hoping there was a way to get an ATX in there, but looks like I will have to change MBs if I want to use one.

On the Tt.....I'm going to say there might be just a little bit of a difference in materials and build quality between that and a Phanteks case.....


----------



## OutlawII

I have the Enthoo primo it is the best or not one of the best cases i've ever owned,my only complaint is that dam side window. Smoked side panel is useless i have all this beautiful hardware that i cant see due to the smokiness


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> The Luxe and Pro use the same side panel. Same material, same window.
> 
> And I put absolutely zero weight in anything Linus says. Frankly, he's so skewed that if he said the sky was blue, I would first wonder who paid him to say it, them wonder what color it actually is.


agreed 100%. his reviews on the Pro and Evolv range from awful to downright unprofessional. well, he doesn't care for professionalism or accuracy if the case he's reviewing isn't made by corsair or fractal design.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> The Enthoo Mini is pretty amazing. I was really hoping there was a way to get an ATX in there, but looks like I will have to change MBs if I want to use one.
> 
> On the Tt.....I'm going to say there might be just a little bit of a difference in materials and build quality between that and a Phanteks case.....


Thermaltake chassis having poor build quality is as predictable as the sun rising. a pity as some of their new designs are very nice.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> The Luxe and Pro use the same side panel. Same material, same window.
> 
> And I put absolutely zero weight in anything Linus says. Frankly, he's so skewed that if he said the sky was blue, I would first wonder who paid him to say it, them wonder what color it actually is.


Posts like this are what the Rep button was made for.


----------



## sugalumps

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> The Luxe and Pro use the same side panel. Same material, same window.
> 
> And I put absolutely zero weight in anything Linus says. Frankly, he's so skewed that if he said the sky was blue, I would first wonder who paid him to say it, them wonder what color it actually is.


Why is he skewed? Just asking.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PureBlackFire*
> 
> agreed 100%. his reviews on the Pro and Evolv range from awful to downright unprofessional. well, he doesn't care for professionalism or accuracy if the case he's reviewing isn't made by corsair or fractal design.
> Thermaltake chassis having poor build quality is as predictable as the sun rising. a pity as some of their new designs are very nice.


You do realise linus outright says at the end of the review that the pro is one of the best cases in any price bracket and the market, even competing with $150 cases and that anyone looking for a new case should buy it. Did you even watch it? As he praises the case to the high heavens except the window on the side panel, thought you would love the praise of this case









He also criticises the newest lineup of corsair cases alot actualy(760t/780t), saying at the end he expects more of them and better of them.


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sugalumps*
> 
> No reason to be like that, the reason I used a question mark is I was genuinly asking you the difference as I thought it was full metal/aluminium w/e in the luxe vs brushed plastic in the pro. Hence the big difference in weight between the two cases, making the luxe a very very heavy case. Again I am sure the £30+ price difference is not for an extra ssd bracket and a led strip.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 3.05 linus's video - talks about what I keep mentioning and the only reason I have reservations of dropping down to the pro from the damaged luxe I just sent back.
> "The quality of the acrylic here is so poor it looks like it belongs to a two year old case".


The 30 dollar difference is indeed the led strip and ssd bracket. But also the top and front panels being aluminum as opposed to plastic like the pro and the top allowing for bigger rads or push pull in the luxe (luxe allows for fans to be mounted above the chasis). I maybe wrong but from everything I've seen that's the difference. I asked earlier when you said luxe had a better window bc I never heard that and if it turned out to be true I would buy one from phanteks to replace my pro window.


----------



## sugalumps

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> The 30 dollar difference is indeed the led strip and ssd bracket. But also the top and front panels being aluminum as opposed to plastic like the pro and the top allowing for bigger rads or push pull in the luxe (luxe allows for fans to be mounted above the chasis). I maybe wrong but from everything I've seen that's the difference. I asked earlier when you said luxe had a better window bc I never heard that and if it turned out to be true I would buy one from phanteks to replace my pro window.


According to the other people here who have used both(I have not, only going off what linus said in his review at 3.05 in the video) they are the same, so I would take their word. The window/side panel is the same I guess.

Unless ofcourse you have the factory defect that means different parts of the window is different levels of smoked, i.e blotchy - that is not supposed to happen and you would have to contact phanteks for a replacement. Or like I had, the toolbox was not tied down and scratched all the window and side panel so I rmad.


----------



## koniu777

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sugalumps*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> The 30 dollar difference is indeed the led strip and ssd bracket. But also the top and front panels being aluminum as opposed to plastic like the pro and the top allowing for bigger rads or push pull in the luxe (luxe allows for fans to be mounted above the chasis). I maybe wrong but from everything I've seen that's the difference. I asked earlier when you said luxe had a better window bc I never heard that and if it turned out to be true I would buy one from phanteks to replace my pro window.
> 
> 
> 
> According to the other people here who have used both(I have not, only going off what linus said in his review at 3.05 in the video) that's not true, so I would take their word. The window/side panel is the same I guess.
> 
> Unless ofcourse you have the factory defect that means different parts of the window is different levels of smoked, i.e blotchy - that is not supposed to happen and you would have to contact phanteks for a replacement. Or like I had, the toolbox was not tied down and scratched all the window and side panel so I rmaed.
Click to expand...

As an owner of both the pro and the luxe I can confirm that they are the same, meaning both are *****. That's why my acrylic window mod has made this case so much better.


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sugalumps*
> 
> You do realise linus outright says at the end of the review that the pro is one of the best cases in any price bracket and the market, even competing with $150 cases and that anyone looking for a new case should buy it. Did you even watch it? As he praises the case to the high heavens except the window on the side panel, thought you would love the praise of this case
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> He also criticises the newest lineup of corsair cases alot actualy(760t/780t), saying at the end he expects more of them and better of them.


unfortunately I did watch it. and I never said anything about his remarks on the 760T ot 780T (the latter many reviewers found hard to get excited about but to each his own). only that he put some effort into the reviews themselves. his review of the pro felt like it was forced on him by someone. his review of the evolv, full of inaccuracies, was done in the bushes in a parking lot.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sugalumps*
> 
> Why is he skewed? Just asking.


Edit.....not going to say it.....


----------



## dsmwookie

Linus's Evolv review was pathetic. Normally I can enjoy his videos, but he had no idea what a pump bracket was, didn't realize the panels were tool less, no clue that the hinges/doors could jusT be lifted off. His review was very unprofessional and I wouldn't send him my products again as he did them no justice with the lack of research.

Also the whole parking lot review thing is cheesy as hell. Lastly, he needs to shut up about packaging material.


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dsmwookie*
> 
> Linus's Evolv review was pathetic. Normally I can enjoy his videos, but he had no idea what a pump bracket was, didn't realize the panels were tool less, no clue that the hinges/doors could jusT be lifted off. His review was very unprofessional and I wouldn't send him my products again as he did them no justice with the lack of research.
> 
> Also the whole parking lot review thing is cheesy as hell. Lastly, he needs to shut up about packaging material.


well, he's obviously doing something right to garner such huge and fervent following.... I just don't quite know what that is.


----------



## sugalumps

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *koniu777*
> 
> As an owner of both the pro and the luxe I can confirm that they are the same, meaning both are *****. That's why my acrylic window mod has made this case so much better.


Ye I was really bummed that you cannot see anything besides leds through the window









It seems like they meant it only to be used with the extra phanteks led strip they included the cable/option for, but left it out. I would prefer a non smoky window as I dont want alot of leds inside just nice clean simple parts showing. Though it would look really nice with the led strip/led fans I guess. Not saying it's bad, just my personal preference.

Anyways knowing the pro is not a reduction in quality makes me happy, I will probably grab that instead of the luxe this time.


----------



## Cloudy

After checking that KitGuru review of the Mini XL, it's really making me consider going m-atx. The lack of good looking z97/z87 is kinda crushing that idea though.


----------



## owcraftsman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *koniu777*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *sugalumps*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> The 30 dollar difference is indeed the led strip and ssd bracket. But also the top and front panels being aluminum as opposed to plastic like the pro and the top allowing for bigger rads or push pull in the luxe (luxe allows for fans to be mounted above the chasis). I maybe wrong but from everything I've seen that's the difference. I asked earlier when you said luxe had a better window bc I never heard that and if it turned out to be true I would buy one from phanteks to replace my pro window.
> 
> 
> 
> According to the other people here who have used both(I have not, only going off what linus said in his review at 3.05 in the video) that's not true, so I would take their word. The window/side panel is the same I guess.
> 
> Unless ofcourse you have the factory defect that means different parts of the window is different levels of smoked, i.e blotchy - that is not supposed to happen and you would have to contact phanteks for a replacement. Or like I had, the toolbox was not tied down and scratched all the window and side panel so I rmaed.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> As an owner of both the pro and the luxe I can confirm that they are the same, meaning both are *****. That's why my acrylic window mod has made this case so much better.
Click to expand...

Yaaa..... I'm glad you posted that again I mentioned this mod to someone else here and they were excited about it too. Maybe I missed it but if you don't mind what was the thickness you used for the glass?


----------



## koniu777

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *owcraftsman*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *koniu777*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *sugalumps*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> The 30 dollar difference is indeed the led strip and ssd bracket. But also the top and front panels being aluminum as opposed to plastic like the pro and the top allowing for bigger rads or push pull in the luxe (luxe allows for fans to be mounted above the chasis). I maybe wrong but from everything I've seen that's the difference. I asked earlier when you said luxe had a better window bc I never heard that and if it turned out to be true I would buy one from phanteks to replace my pro window.
> 
> 
> 
> According to the other people here who have used both(I have not, only going off what linus said in his review at 3.05 in the video) that's not true, so I would take their word. The window/side panel is the same I guess.
> 
> Unless ofcourse you have the factory defect that means different parts of the window is different levels of smoked, i.e blotchy - that is not supposed to happen and you would have to contact phanteks for a replacement. Or like I had, the toolbox was not tied down and scratched all the window and side panel so I rmaed.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> As an owner of both the pro and the luxe I can confirm that they are the same, meaning both are *****. That's why my acrylic window mod has made this case so much better.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Yaaa..... I'm glad you posted that again I mentioned this mod to someone else here and they were excited about it too. Maybe I missed it but if you don't mind what was the thickness you used for the glass?
Click to expand...

The acrylic sheet thickness is 3/16"


----------



## firefoxx04

I have issues with my hdd cage. The trays sit slightly loose in the cage and can sometimes vibrate. In addition, my sata power cables push into the side panel because they are not 90* like some sata cables. Pushing the panel inward seems to help but its not permanent. I even screwed my harddrives into the trays but it has done nothing.


----------



## pshootr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *koniu777*
> 
> As an owner of both the pro and the luxe I can confirm that they are the same, meaning both are *****. That's why my acrylic window mod has made this case so much better.


Looks like you did a nice job. How does the acrylic attach to the chassis? Have any pics of the the acrylic unattached?


----------



## pshootr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *firefoxx04*
> 
> I have issues with my hdd cage. The trays sit slightly loose in the cage and can sometimes vibrate. In addition, my sata power cables push into the side panel because they are not 90* like some sata cables. Pushing the panel inward seems to help but its not permanent. I even screwed my harddrives into the trays but it has done nothing.


Hard drives are pretty heavy, it seems they should be pretty stable. What is causing all this vibration I wonder. Maybe remove the trays that are not in use?


----------



## firefoxx04

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pshootr*
> 
> Hard drives are pretty heavy, it seems they should be pretty stable. What is causing all this vibration I wonder. Maybe remove the trays that are not in use?


I am using 3 drives. The second cage is removed. I was thinking the sole problem was my sata cables pushing up against the side panel but even with the panel off I will hear a vibration. Gently pressing on the drives fixes the issue for a little bit. Its not a big deal for a $100 case like the Pro but I would not be too thrilled if the Primo acted like this. Probably not a big deal for most considering they throw the drive cages out in favor of radiators and ssd.


----------



## sugalumps

My packaging was damaged in the exact same place as linus's, got a picture of it that I sent to scan for the rma. Linus is the only reviewer that every goes over the packaging, and I like that. As it's important, look what happened to my case, damaged on arrival.

So he was right about the packaging aspect, and that they obviously have not figured it all out yet. Though the primo's packaging foam is alot better as shown in the video.


----------



## Spork13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *firefoxx04*
> 
> I am using 3 drives. The second cage is removed. I was thinking the sole problem was my sata cables pushing up against the side panel but even with the panel off I will hear a vibration. Gently pressing on the drives fixes the issue for a little bit. Its not a big deal for a $100 case like the Pro but I would not be too thrilled if the Primo acted like this. Probably not a big deal for most considering they throw the drive cages out in favor of radiators and ssd.


$2 each.
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/50cm-1-5-Serial-SATA-ATA-DATA-UP-90-degree-angled-to-straight-Lead-Cable-6GB-/131063376104?pt=AU_CablesConnectors&hash=item1e83fc68e8


----------



## pshootr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *firefoxx04*
> 
> I am using 3 drives. The second cage is removed. I was thinking the sole problem was my sata cables pushing up against the side panel but even with the panel off I will hear a vibration. Gently pressing on the drives fixes the issue for a little bit. Its not a big deal for a $100 case like the Pro but I would not be too thrilled if the Primo acted like this. Probably not a big deal for most considering they throw the drive cages out in favor of radiators and ssd.


Ya sometimes these type issues can be tough to track down. I thought one of my cpu-fans was ticking but it turned out to be the plastic shroud around the heat-sink. I shimmed with cardboard to fix it.


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dsmwookie*
> 
> Linus's Evolv review was pathetic. Normally I can enjoy his videos, but he had no idea what a pump bracket was, didn't realize the panels were tool less, no clue that the hinges/doors could jusT be lifted off. His review was very unprofessional and I wouldn't send him my products again as he did them no justice with the lack of research.
> 
> Also the whole parking lot review thing is cheesy as hell. Lastly, he needs to shut up about packaging material.


I agree he needed to do his research he has it of followers and all the assets to know about the product. But as for the parking lot thing he did that for an anniversary to when he first start bc that's how he did it. I actually like hardwarecancuks and high tech legion. They give info not tell you what to do


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> I agree he needed to do his research he has it of followers and all the assets to know about the product. But as for the parking lot thing he did that for an anniversary to when he first start bc that's how he did it. *I actually like hardwarecancuks and high tech legion*. They give info not tell you what to do


as well you should. very good content.

on an unrelated note, do you have any recent full pics of your build?


----------



## emsj86

Believe it or not I'm actually redoing a few things. Going g with a acrylic pump top and heatsink housing, new reservior upgrade. What I have is a few pictures of where it is out now with the petg tubing which was done around Christmas and the new cpu/mobo. I need to get around to posting more pictures. Really thinking of investing in a camera. Maybe something cheaper for now. Pics on build log so I don't take up a lot of room. http://www.overclock.net/t/1519439/blue-blurry-build-log-by-itzems-phanteks-enthoo-pro-case/60#post_23357222


----------



## pshootr

Going to order a third fan for my Cryorig R1 Ultimate, and wanted to pick up an extra 140mm case fan or two as well for my Luxe. Phanteks fans are great and all, but I don't care for the "white" on them. So I was thinking Black, or maybe Red-LED. Preferably from the egg, any ideas?


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Wow, after reading some of the recent comments I just gave Linus' Phanteks Evolv unboxing vid a watch. I've been a critical of Linus's penchant for inaccuracy for a long time now, but even still I'm shocked at how terrible it was. I can't remember the last time I yelled at the screen trying to correct someone as if they could hear me, yet there I was doing just that several times.

It's not just an idiot FAIL. Someone with as high of a following as Linus (however undeserved it is) getting so many facts wrong about a product has the very real potential to hurt their sales and damage their brand. He should be obligated to issue corrections when they are that bad, and if not then perhaps even legally required or held liable for monetary damage claims. His job is not that hard to do to make sure he gets his facts right before putting a video like that online. It's not live on-the-air TV and even if it was he should be a LOT better at what he's doing then what he is.


----------



## viperguy212

Hey all,

Just picked up my Luxe and after a long night of building I have a question.

The fan hub, which I know gets mentioned here a lot.

I have 2 PWM fans up front, 1 rear exhaust (3 pin), h100i in push/pull (2 of 4 fans are 3 pin, other 2 running off h100). At first I had them all plugged into the fan hub and the hub on my 2nd CPU header. Well that resulted in 100% fan speed all the time despite any settings.

Sort of at an impasse right now as I dont know which way to go. I'm thinking drop the Pull off the h100 (which is what I normally run anyway), put the rear exhaust on a system header, and run the 2 pwm front intakes off a pwm splitter I have. Also thinking about bay controller options or the swifttech one, but I'm not sure if it supports both PWM and 3 pin.

Thanks!


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Wow, after reading some of the recent comments I just gave Linus' Phanteks Evolv unboxing vid a watch. I've been a critical of Linus's penchant for inaccuracy for a long time now, but even still I'm shocked at how terrible it was. I can't remember the last time I yelled at the screen trying to correct someone as if they could hear me, yet there I was doing just that several times.
> 
> It's not just an idiot FAIL. Someone with as high of a following as Linus (however undeserved it is) getting so many facts wrong about a product has the very real potential to hurt their sales and damage their brand. He should be obligated to issue corrections when they are that bad, and if not then perhaps even legally required or held liable for monetary damage claims. His job is not that hard to do to make sure he gets his facts right before putting a video like that online. It's not live on-the-air TV and even if it was he should be a LOT better at what he's doing then what he is.


Started to watch one of his idiotic ego-centric reviews and almost barfed.







Will never look at another.









Best case reviews I've seen are TheModZoo. Very in depth with lots and lots of detail, how-to and "what if we try ... ?"


----------



## WHIMington

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *viperguy212*
> 
> Hey all,
> 
> Just picked up my Luxe and after a long night of building I have a question.
> 
> The fan hub, which I know gets mentioned here a lot.
> 
> I have 2 PWM fans up front, 1 rear exhaust (3 pin), h100i in push/pull (2 of 4 fans are 3 pin, other 2 running off h100). At first I had them all plugged into the fan hub and the hub on my 2nd CPU header. Well that resulted in 100% fan speed all the time despite any settings.
> 
> Sort of at an impasse right now as I dont know which way to go. I'm thinking drop the Pull off the h100 (which is what I normally run anyway), put the rear exhaust on a system header, and run the 2 pwm front intakes off a pwm splitter I have. Also thinking about bay controller options or the swifttech one, but I'm not sure if it supports both PWM and 3 pin.
> 
> Thanks!


PWM hub is for 3 pin fan only, don't bother to use a 4 pin fan with them, and 3 pin fan might or might not work depending on fan, Phanteks stock fans work fairly well, not so much for higher demand fans like GT1850s with a little range of control.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *viperguy212*
> 
> Hey all,
> 
> Just picked up my Luxe and after a long night of building I have a question.
> 
> The fan hub, which I know gets mentioned here a lot.
> 
> I have 2 PWM fans up front, 1 rear exhaust (3 pin), h100i in push/pull (2 of 4 fans are 3 pin, other 2 running off h100). At first I had them all plugged into the fan hub and the hub on my 2nd CPU header. Well that resulted in 100% fan speed all the time despite any settings.
> 
> Sort of at an impasse right now as I dont know which way to go. I'm thinking drop the Pull off the h100 (which is what I normally run anyway), put the rear exhaust on a system header, and run the 2 pwm front intakes off a pwm splitter I have. Also thinking about bay controller options or the swifttech one, but I'm not sure if it supports both PWM and 3 pin.
> 
> Thanks!


Sounds like your CPU2 header may be VR, not actually PWM. I ran into this on a couple of boards assuming it was a PWM header.


----------



## cozumel68

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> .... I don't worry too much about stripping one of the latches out again since after having to wait 3 weeks with my brand new Enthoo Primo case missing the front filter cover for Phanteks support to send me some new ones, I went out since and bought a handful just so I have them on hand if/when any more fail (and unfortunately, yes, I've had two more of the latches fail since that first time when dummy me did the exact same thing and forgot to remove the filter panel before popping the case front panel free again. Thankfully the second time I had latches to replace them.)


Hi

My case was delivered with broken latches (and other damage too). As part of the RMA they are sending me a few latches. I'm interested about what you bought as (via google) it appears these latches are pretty poor so I too want a bag of them as spares. What are they called (the latches)? Or please can you provide a link to the latches as I really don't know where to get them.

Sorry about the rather silly question. Just don't know how to describe them in google search or on the phone lol

Many thanks


----------



## Redeye247

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cozumel68*
> 
> Hi
> 
> My case was delivered with broken latches (and other damage too). As part of the RMA they are sending me a few latches. I'm interested about what you bought as (via google) it appears these latches are pretty poor so I too want a bag of them as spares. What are they called (the latches)? Or please can you provide a link to the latches as I really don't know where to get them.
> 
> Sorry about the rather silly question. Just don't know how to describe them in google search or on the phone lol
> 
> Many thanks


Just so you don't have to search, I am re-posting this for you









"Just a heads up for anyone with the Enthoo Primo, who has issues with the front panel catches that are fragile. I have been able to source some cheap replacements. I have had to order some myself for my brand new Primo, as I have had no joy with Phanteks customer service. Anyway these are on the U.k Ebay site, Though I am sure they would be available elsewhere."

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2x-Replacement-catch-Brabantia-compatible-Touch-Lid-bin-clip-latch-spare-repair/301446027681?_trksid=p5713.c100041.m2061&_trkparms=aid%3D333008%26algo%3DRIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20140109122350%26meid%3Df19cc7dcf50648168dc0ab1a33c7f320%26pid%3D100041%26prg%3D20140109122350%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D9%26sd%3D151520005252


----------



## TGBM

Hi guys I am in the process of building a fully WC system in a Phanteks Luxe and have a question about the LED strip you can buy. Can you cut the LED strip to size if it's too long or will that break it? You can follow my build progress on my build log linked below!

Thanks, TGB

http://www.overclock.net/t/1533748/build-log-project-tgb-i7-4790k-gtx-970-enthoo-luxe-wc


----------



## cozumel68

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Redeye247*
> 
> Just so you don't have to search, I am re-posting this for you
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ...........


Thanks man. Much obliged. Lots of catches are going be coming my way...


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cozumel68*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> .... I don't worry too much about stripping one of the latches out again since after having to wait 3 weeks with my brand new Enthoo Primo case missing the front filter cover for Phanteks support to send me some new ones, I went out since and bought a handful just so I have them on hand if/when any more fail (and unfortunately, yes, I've had two more of the latches fail since that first time when dummy me did the exact same thing and forgot to remove the filter panel before popping the case front panel free again. Thankfully the second time I had latches to replace them.)
> 
> 
> 
> Hi
> 
> My case was delivered with broken latches (and other damage too). As part of the RMA they are sending me a few latches. I'm interested about what you bought as (via google) it appears these latches are pretty poor so I too want a bag of them as spares. What are they called (the latches)? Or please can you provide a link to the latches as I really don't know where to get them.
> 
> Sorry about the rather silly question. Just don't know how to describe them in google search or on the phone lol
> 
> Many thanks
Click to expand...

A few posts before the one you quoted I had reposted this from about a year ago. ...
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Here's a small update on the extra push-click latches for the filters on the Enthoo Primo we were discussing a month or so ago since they seem a bit prone to failing (I've had to get two replaced from Phanteks already, and so have several others here). [...] In the US I've found them referred to as a *Grab Catch* or *non-magnetic mini touch latch* and in the UK they can be found by searching for a '*push click bin latch*'.


That should hopefully help people find them whatever side of the pond you are on.


----------



## MxPhenom 216

I am hoping someone here can answer my question.

In the Luxe, can you have the bottom 240 radiator orientated in such a way where the tubing holes are facing the front of the case rather then the back towards the PSU so that if you are using a thinker rad you can still use the PSU cover?

I am looking at getting the Luxe to replace my 750D because I just built a rig in a friends H440, and I really want one of those PSU covers its so nice, and the Luxe seems perfect to keep my current rad setup etc.


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MxPhenom 216*
> 
> I am hoping someone here can answer my question.
> 
> In the Luxe, can you have the bottom 240 radiator orientated in such a way where the tubing holes are facing the front of the case rather then the back towards the PSU so that if you are using a thinker rad you can still use the PSU cover?
> 
> I am looking at getting the Luxe to replace my 750D because I just built a rig in a friends H440, and I really want one of those PSU covers its so nice, and the Luxe seems perfect to keep my current rad setup etc.


yes you can.


----------



## MxPhenom 216

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PureBlackFire*
> 
> yes you can.


Bad ass! thank you and +rep


----------



## MxPhenom 216

Heres what I am thinking for loop. I might put the 240 vertical at the front, and find some way to mount my 3.5" 2TB drive without have 3.5" drive bays.


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MxPhenom 216*
> 
> Heres what I am thinking for loop. I might put the 240 vertical at the front, and find some way to mount my 3.5" 2TB drive without have 3.5" drive bays.


I have my 3.5" drive in the 5.25" bay via this adapter.


----------



## Freaxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MxPhenom 216*
> 
> Heres what I am thinking for loop. I might put the 240 vertical at the front, and find some way to mount my 3.5" 2TB drive without have 3.5" drive bays.


I'm going to have to remove my drive bays in my enthoo primo too, because of clearance with the monsta rad + tubing.
I'm also doing this with my 3.5" drives:
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PureBlackFire*
> 
> I have my 3.5" drive in the 5.25" bay via this adapter.


----------



## MxPhenom 216

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PureBlackFire*
> 
> I have my 3.5" drive in the 5.25" bay via this adapter.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Freaxy*
> 
> I'm going to have to remove my drive bays in my enthoo primo too, because of clearance with the monsta rad + tubing.
> I'm also doing this with my 3.5" drives:


What are you guys doing then about mounting reservoir?


----------



## Freaxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MxPhenom 216*
> 
> What are you guys doing then about mounting reservoir?


I'm still waiting on EK to release the waterblock for the Gigabyte GTX 980 Gaming G1, so I haven't started my build yet. But I would mount my tube reservoir on the bracket between the graphics cards and the drive bays.
If that doesn't fit I will mount it on the back.

I got the enthoo primo though, so it might have more space.


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MxPhenom 216*
> 
> What are you guys doing then about mounting reservoir?


mine is right where yours is in the illustration via the supplied bracket.


----------



## emsj86

You can do what I am going to do buy the phanteks mini xl 3.5 adapter than mod the ssd bracket hooks or make your own or use Velcro/3m tape and mount my hdd on the back panel or behind the hdd wall


----------



## sugalumps

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Wow, after reading some of the recent comments I just gave Linus' Phanteks Evolv unboxing vid a watch. I've been a critical of Linus's penchant for inaccuracy for a long time now, but even still I'm shocked at how terrible it was. I can't remember the last time I yelled at the screen trying to correct someone as if they could hear me, yet there I was doing just that several times.
> 
> It's not just an idiot FAIL. Someone with as high of a following as Linus (however undeserved it is) getting so many facts wrong about a product has the very real potential to hurt their sales and damage their brand. He should be obligated to issue corrections when they are that bad, and if not then perhaps even legally required or held liable for monetary damage claims. His job is not that hard to do to make sure he gets his facts right before putting a video like that online. It's not live on-the-air TV and even if it was he should be a LOT better at what he's doing then what he is.


Rewatching alot of his case reviews against canuck's and there is a big difference as said here, though linus has by far the most reviews on any case he actualy does and that's alot of people that would not have seen it otherwise and with his very strong recommendation of the enthoo pro that will be getting alot of people using the pro that otherwise would not have even heard of it. I would call his case videos more of a product showcase than a review


----------



## greg1184

Sigh. I find out the hard way that a ASUS strix 980 will not fit with the Reservoir bracket. So much for the Bitpower 270 reservoir I was going to use. So I may have to at least temporarily use a bay reservoir until I decide to either get a reference card or put the card under water.


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *greg1184*
> 
> Sigh. I find out the hard way that a ASUS strix 980 will not fit with the Reservoir bracket. So much for the Bitpower 270 reservoir I was going to use. So I may have to at least temporarily use a bay reservoir until I decide to either get a reference card or put the card under water.


sucks. that's why I swapped my 290 Tri-X. Phanteks should consider that every gpu isn't 10.5" or shorter or going under water and make a more versatile solution for reservoir mounting.


----------



## owcraftsman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pshootr*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *koniu777*
> 
> As an owner of both the pro and the luxe I can confirm that they are the same, meaning both are *****. That's why my acrylic window mod has made this case so much better.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Looks like you did a nice job. How does the acrylic attach to the chassis? Have any pics of the the acrylic unattached?
Click to expand...

These two post should answer your question

http://www.overclock.net/t/1418637/official-case-phanteks-club-enthoo-primo-enthoo-luxe-enthoo-pro-lovers-owners/7050_50#post_23244233

http://www.overclock.net/t/1418637/official-case-phanteks-club-enthoo-primo-enthoo-luxe-enthoo-pro-lovers-owners/7050_50#post_23246575


----------



## sugalumps

To perfect.

Had to laugh at this after our back and forward purefire, your fabled dmitry talks about how the new enthoo's window is so easy to scratch and lacks quality


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sugalumps*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To perfect.
> 
> Had to laugh at this after our back and forward purefire, your fabled dmitry talks about how the new enthoo's window is so easy to scratch and lacks quality


yea, and didn't mention it in the other two reviews you tried to claim he said the Luxe' window was better than the pro's. trying to cheer yourself up from making up fantasies and and admiring experienced noobs?


----------



## Roxycon

someone got a pic of the front fan mounting holes of the enthoo evolv?


----------



## VulgarDisplay88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roxycon*
> 
> someone got a pic of the front fan mounting holes of the enthoo evolv?


Gimme an hour and I'll be at home so I can take a pic for you.


----------



## waveaddict

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roxycon*
> 
> someone got a pic of the front fan mounting holes of the enthoo evolv?


This is the best I found,maybe someone that has the case can give better pics.



To late,looks like @VulgarDisplay88 going to hook you up.


----------



## pshootr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *owcraftsman*
> 
> These two post should answer your question
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1418637/official-case-phanteks-club-enthoo-primo-enthoo-luxe-enthoo-pro-lovers-owners/7050_50#post_23244233
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1418637/official-case-phanteks-club-enthoo-primo-enthoo-luxe-enthoo-pro-lovers-owners/7050_50#post_23246575


Oh nice, very good idea. Looks so nice too, thanks a lot for the replies.


----------



## owcraftsman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pshootr*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *owcraftsman*
> 
> These two post should answer your question
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1418637/official-case-phanteks-club-enthoo-primo-enthoo-luxe-enthoo-pro-lovers-owners/7050_50#post_23244233
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1418637/official-case-phanteks-club-enthoo-primo-enthoo-luxe-enthoo-pro-lovers-owners/7050_50#post_23246575
> 
> 
> 
> Oh nice, very good idea. Looks so nice too, thanks a lot for the replies.
Click to expand...

Yep I'm thinking of doing a similar mod to the front door of the Primo. Replacing the aluminum door panel w/acrylic. The door is easily removed by taking 4 screws out of hinge to door connection, which would allow for attaching the acrylic to the hinges. The door also latches with a magnet an easy enough mod. In this way replacing the original door is as simple as 4 screws. Too bad the door is right hand out swing only I wish it were reversible but at least the lighted fan controller and dual bay (Monsoon S2) res I intend to add will show through the closed door.


----------



## Accursed Entity

That new Evolv ATX... mmm...


----------



## koniu777

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Accursed Entity*
> 
> That new Evolv ATX... mmm...


Phanteks - NEW EVOLV ATX and mini-ITX: 




I'm dumping my enthoo luxe for the evolv atx the day it comes out, absolute beast of a case.


----------



## kush621

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *owcraftsman*
> 
> Yep I'm thinking of doing a similar mod to the front door of the Primo. Replacing the aluminum door panel w/acrylic. The door is easily removed by taking 4 screws out of hinge to door connection, which would allow for attaching the acrylic to the hinges. The door also latches with a magnet an easy enough mod. In this way replacing the original door is as simple as 4 screws. Too bad the door is right hand out swing only I wish it were reversible but at least the lighted fan controller and dual bay (Monsoon S2) res I intend to add will show through the closed door.


The acrylic on my Luxe was god awful, full of scratches on arrival and that dark acrylic looked like ass. I put on a glass window and it looks awesome, it's so clear it doesn't look like there's a window on at all. One of these days i'll get some pictures posted.


----------



## owcraftsman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kush621*
> 
> The acrylic on my Luxe was god awful, full of scratches on arrival and that dark acrylic looked like ass. I put on a glass window and it looks awesome, it's so clear it doesn't look like there's a window on at all. One of these days i'll get some pictures posted.


Ya do that we love pics here but I like the look of some asses  just don't post any of those pics lol


----------



## MxPhenom 216

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PureBlackFire*
> 
> mine is right where yours is in the illustration via the supplied bracket.


You can't use the supplied bracket if you remove both hard drive bays though right? That is why I was asking.


----------



## theoblivinator

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MxPhenom 216*
> 
> You can't use the supplied bracket if you remove both hard drive bays though right? That is why I was asking.


You can use the reservoir bracket even with both hard drive cages removed on the Luxe.


----------



## Accursed Entity

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *koniu777*
> 
> Phanteks - NEW EVOLV ATX and mini-ITX:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm dumping my enthoo luxe for the evolv atx the day it comes out, absolute beast of a case.


Yeah! That's the video I saw, I'm really impressed, I'm thinking on buying it too. I always wanted the Evolv but I didn't like that it was mATX. Now there's no excuse for me.


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *theoblivinator*
> 
> You can use the reservoir bracket even with both hard drive cages removed on the Luxe.


As long as you keep the middle divider or bar (whatever it is) right? If so I may change my loop and use the bracket as f right now I mounted my res using a drill to punch homes through the hdd cage. I lose one hdd slot but keep the other two that way.


----------



## Reaper28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *theoblivinator*
> 
> You can use the reservoir bracket even with both hard drive cages removed on the Luxe.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> As long as you keep the middle divider or bar (whatever it is) right?


Not sure about that, I did a quick test with just the top cage in and the little bar it will fit although it seems a little wobbly but once a res is mounted it should be secure


----------



## PureBlackFire

As long as the 5.25" bay is in you can use the bracket. Even better if that little bar is in place.


----------



## sugalumps

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PureBlackFire*
> 
> yea, and didn't mention it in the other two reviews you tried to claim he said the Luxe' window was better than the pro's. trying to cheer yourself up from making up fantasies and and admiring experienced noobs?


I meant it as a joke m8, it was just really great timing which was why I was laughing.

But if we are going to be like this then the FACTS are that is now two reviewers(the top two most watched and cover the most cases) have now reported different cases coming with very low quality side panels on their exact recieved items, if you check newegg you will see many people who have gotten bad windows with scratches and marks all over them(also about half way through this very owners thread there were a good few people complaining about this aswel). There is a quality control issue here and it's not just me making things up, that is the first time I have outright seen two big reviewers both recieve cases from the same maker with the exact same quality control problem.

Anyways I was going to order another luxe tonight but after seeing the new evolve atx that is my next case for sure.


----------



## PureBlackFire

^I wasn't sure what you were getting at with this when I replied. Still didn't see either anyone review the luxe and say it has a better window or better materials, which is what you were saying this whole tome. The mini XL review should prove they use the same junk on every case wondow if anything. And in my veru first reply on this matter I said they have a quality control problem. Looks like you've come around to agree..


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Yeah even the windows on the Primo are the same easy-to-scratch plexi with no shortage of complaints about it. There's not any quality difference between any of the Phanteks case windows and the side panels for the Luxe and the Pro are exactly the same just like their entire chassis are. The Phanteks Luxe is the Phanteks Pro except with a different aluminum front and top panel instead of plastic and it has a few extra features / accessories inside. It's the luxury edition of the Pro.


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Yeah even the windows on the Primo are the same easy-to-scratch plexi with no shortage of complaints about it. There's not any quality difference between any of the Phanteks case windows and the side panels for the Luxe and the Pro are exactly the same just like their entire chassis are. The Phanteks Luxe is the Phanteks Pro except with a different aluminum front and top panel instead of plastic and it has a few extra features / accessories inside. It's the luxury edition of the Pro.


for the millionth time now.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Yeah even the windows on the Primo are the same easy-to-scratch plexi with no shortage of complaints about it. There's not any quality difference between any of the Phanteks case windows and the side panels for the Luxe and the Pro are exactly the same just like their entire chassis are. The Phanteks Luxe is the Phanteks Pro except with a different aluminum front and top panel instead of plastic and it has a few extra features / accessories inside. It's the luxury edition of the Pro.


my pro came with scratches im inclined to think it happened before the packaging like if the door was slid down rollers or something because nothing was unsecured in my case but i still have the scratches and the box was perfect condition packing exactly where it should be...


----------



## emsj86

A to e else disappointed that phanteks didn't either come out with an option or upgrade window or most of all the new xl has the same problem. There ahead f the game but surprised the window which everyone has mentioned is poor hasn't been addressed


----------



## kjrayo18

Does the 100i fit on the top of the pro and do you guys thing it will be quieter then my hyper 212+?


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kjrayo18*
> 
> Does the 100i fit on the top of the pro and do you guys thing it will be quieter then my hyper 212+?


yes it fits. no it won't be quieter.


----------



## kjrayo18

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PureBlackFire*
> 
> yes it fits. no it won't be quieter.


Good to know! Thanks I'll stick with the hyper plus


----------



## kush621

OK so finally putting some pictures up.

Before I changed some of the tubing just recently.




some pics of the glass window attached to the side panel with 3M tape



With the side panel on - you can't tell in the pictures but it's crystal clear. It looks like there is nothing there at all






the top with Darkside LED's all the way around, some sound dampening material and Noctuas


with the side panel off


more pics f the side panel with some sound dampening material added



just some more pics


----------



## bigaza2151

Thinking of maybe throwing nzxt m10 bracket on my 280x and a kraken throught the front intake of my enthoo pro, from what i can see i can thow anything up to 240mm in the front but i did see linus mention that you may still have issues regarding screwdriver clearance when installing?

I threw a h100i in the top outake for my cpu otherwise i mightve used the top


----------



## MxPhenom 216

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kjrayo18*
> 
> Does the 100i fit on the top of the pro and do you guys thing it will be quieter then my hyper 212+?


Don't get an H100i, those a trash. If you want to go with an AIO get an NZXT Kraken or put out some dough for a Swiftech.


----------



## bigaza2151

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MxPhenom 216*
> 
> Don't get an H100i, those a trash. If you want to go with an AIO get an NZXT Kraken or put out some dough for a Swiftech.


Trash? Ive owned one for just over a month and i love it, also the whole reason i got it over the kraken is coz it ran cooler in the benchmark i saw lol

And yes the 100i fits in the top of the pro just fine


----------



## sugalumps

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bigaza2151*
> 
> Trash? Ive owned one for just over a month and i love it, also the whole reason i got it over the kraken is coz it ran cooler in the benchmark i saw lol
> 
> And yes the 100i fits in the top of the pro just fine


Who ever told you that lied mate.

http://cdn.overclock.net/c/c1/c1b815b1_CLCvsAirw-H240X.jpeg

It is the loudest and worse perfoming clc cooling wise out of all the bigs clcs and air coolers, it is garbage and I literally just replaced mine(had two, the first one buzzed/hummed so I replaced it and the second done the same) with an nh-15. It was so loud it's unreal, it has the worst clc fans on the market and a really crappy pump/block.

The coolermaster is much quieter and the nzxts is quieter and runs cooler.......


----------



## bigaza2151

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sugalumps*
> 
> Who ever told you that lied mate.
> 
> http://cdn.overclock.net/c/c1/c1b815b1_CLCvsAirw-H240X.jpeg
> 
> It is the loudest and worse perfoming clc cooling wise out of all the bigs clcs and air coolers, it is garbage and I literally just replaced mine(had two, the first one buzzed/hummed so I replaced it and the second done the same) with an nh-15. It was so loud it's unreal, it has the worst clc fans on the market and a really crappy pump/block.
> 
> The coolermaster is much quieter and the nzxts is quieter and runs cooler.......


Thats why i hate benchmarks, it sometimes just depends where you look, i still gotta say tho, it really helped with my 4690k @4.1ghz temps. Abd as far as noise yeah but for me my whole case needs work in that department, its not "loud" id say but i should also add that im constantly wearing a pair of turtle beach px5 so i barely hear **** anyhow


----------



## MxPhenom 216

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sugalumps*
> 
> Who ever told you that lied mate.
> 
> http://cdn.overclock.net/c/c1/c1b815b1_CLCvsAirw-H240X.jpeg
> 
> It is the loudest and worse perfoming clc cooling wise out of all the bigs clcs and air coolers, it is garbage and I literally just replaced mine(had two, the first one buzzed/hummed so I replaced it and the second done the same) with an nh-15. It was so loud it's unreal, it has the worst clc fans on the market and a really crappy pump/block.
> 
> The coolermaster is much quieter and the nzxts is quieter and runs cooler.......


This is what I mean. I like the NZXTs more mostly because their pump and block are all done in house, unlike Corsair that uses Asetek.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MxPhenom 216*
> 
> This is what I mean. I like the NZXTs more mostly because their pump and block are all done in house, unlike Corsair that uses Asetek.


Corsair is actually financially invested in CoolIt as a manufacturer for the 100i, 80i, etc. The units with the square pump are CoolIt made. They also market Asetek units since the patent trolling started to keep them off their backs.

NZXT uses Asetek units, they make no part of their CLCs in house aside from the fans and software.


----------



## kjrayo18

Ok ok so which of these coolers is the best for my phanteks pro and can make my i5 4690k go past 4.5?


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kjrayo18*
> 
> Ok ok so which of these coolers is the best for my phanteks pro and can make my i5 4690k go past 4.5?


what coolers? and as far as clock speed, that depends on the chip.


----------



## Accursed Entity

I'm using the H100i and I gotta say I am pretty happy with the performance, with that being said, I only got the H100i because I couldn't find the Kraken X61 by that time.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Accursed Entity*
> 
> I'm using the H100i and I gotta say I am pretty happy with the performance, with that being said, I only got the H100i because I couldn't find the Kraken X61 by that time.


But, things change in the market....now you can pick up a Swiftech H220-X or H240-X for almost the same price, and there is absolutely no comparison in any aspect. Kind of like walking into a car dealer and having them say "would you prefer the new Bentley or the Ford Fiesta for the same price?". Frankly, with the Swiftechs around buying any CLC would be a really strange decision.....unless your goal is "most potential volume".


----------



## MrGrievous

Does anyone know if the fan hub works with 4 pin fans? I'm assuming it does, currently I have 4 of the sp 140 running on the controller with no problems.


----------



## emsj86

Correct me if I'm wrong but I believe it only will control 3 pin fans


----------



## Sharklasers

I run 8 Enermax Twister Pressure on the small Phanteks fan hub (aftermarket) and 6 Phanteks fans on the hub that came with the Primo.

The Enermax fans are all 4 pin models.


----------



## pshootr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrGrievous*
> 
> Does anyone know if the fan hub works with 4 pin fans? I'm assuming it does, currently I have 4 of the sp 140 running on the controller with no problems.


I think the hub controls your fans by voltage even though the hub gets its signal from PWM. So ya the 4 pin fan should work, but would be controlled now by voltage and not PWM. The only thing controlled by PWM would be the hub itself.

At least this is how I understand it. But I am not positive.


----------



## kjrayo18

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PureBlackFire*
> 
> what coolers? and as far as clock speed, that depends on the chip.


The h100 the h80 which nzxt and should I go higher then 4.5 or it's not worth it?


----------



## PureBlackFire

if you're going for an AIO, the Swiftech H220X. otherwise a nice air cooler would do the job.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pshootr*
> 
> I think the hub controls your fans by voltage even though the hub gets its signal from PWM. So ya the 4 pin fan should work, but would be controlled now by voltage and not PWM. The only thing controlled by PWM would be the hub itself.
> 
> At-least this is how I understand it. But I am not positive.


Correct.









Using PWM (4pin) fans on variable voltage (3pin) headers means they perform the same as variable voltage (3pin) fans .. controlled with variable voltage.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PureBlackFire*
> 
> if you're going for an AIO, the Swiftech H220X. otherwise a nice air cooler would do the job.


Exactly. I couldn't agree more.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PureBlackFire*
> 
> if you're going for an AIO, the Swiftech H220X. otherwise a nice air cooler would do the job.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Exactly. I couldn't agree more.


Swiftech rules the AIO market.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Swiftech rules the AIO market.


At least on the quality side, hell yes. On numbers of units sold alas I am not that sure and suspect those awful horrible Aseteek and Coolit units dominates. Not sure why people go with that if a good air cooler is a better performer in terms of cost/noise/temp balance but to each his/her own.


----------



## MxPhenom 216

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Corsair is actually financially invested in CoolIt as a manufacturer for the 100i, 80i, etc. The units with the square pump are CoolIt made. They also market Asetek units since the patent trolling started to keep them off their backs.
> 
> NZXT uses Asetek units, they make no part of their CLCs in house aside from the fans and software.


I guess you're right. I forgot about Coolit. If they are Asetek made, I would think it would be just the same as all other CLC that are Asetek made, just as crappy/loud etc.

http://www.tomshardware.com/news/nzxt-kraken-x41-x61-water,26960.html
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PureBlackFire*
> 
> if you're going for an AIO, the Swiftech H220X. otherwise a nice air cooler would do the job.


I was about to say the same thing. Put out the extra dough for better performance, quality, and aesthetics.


----------



## emsj86

I think up to recently not many new about the swiftech aio and some our put off or afraid because it can be opened strange as it sounds. I knew when I first got an aio all I saw were corsair an nzxt


----------



## Reaper28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PureBlackFire*
> 
> if you're going for an AIO, the Swiftech H220X. otherwise a nice air cooler would do the job.


This.


----------



## jameschisholm

How well does that swiftech fit in the luxe?


----------



## Reaper28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jameschisholm*
> 
> How well does that swiftech fit in the luxe?


Shouldn't have any problem up to the 360 version (if Swiftech still makes it?). Plenty of room


----------



## MxPhenom 216

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PureBlackFire*
> 
> if you're going for an AIO, the Swiftech H220X. otherwise a nice air cooler would do the job.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jameschisholm*
> 
> How well does that swiftech fit in the luxe?


If the Luxe has enough room to build a pretty legit custom water cooling system, I don't see why it would have issues supporting the H220X.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Pretty sure the H220X (2*120mm rad) would fit in the Luxe, because HitechLegion managed to fit the newer, larger H240X (2*140mm rad) into the case.






Didn't look like it was any trouble fitting it in the Luxe which has room for the fans on top of the chassis.

Just looking at the dimensions I suspect it could also fit in the Pro which would need the fans underneath but I'd hesitate to say that for sure. Keep in mind that the Luxe and the Pro are limited to 65mm of room between the top of the mobo and the top chassis and there's barely any offset. Assuming you don't have anything on the mobo, like memory, tall enough to interfere with the pump & reservoir on the H220X H240X that would need to overhang the mobo then it shouldn't be an issue.

edit:



And keep in mind that capture is of the H240X, so that I suspect undetermined space shown would be slightly less on the H220X.


----------



## pshootr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Correct.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Using PWM (4pin) fans on variable voltage (3pin) headers means they perform the same as variable voltage (3pin) fans .. controlled with variable voltage.


Thank you for confirming that. I had my fingers crossed that I was correct lol.


----------



## Bulky

Whats the biggest rad i can fit up top in a phanteks pro? I know lenth is 420 but how thick?


----------



## kjrayo18

Anyone know if the Phanteks Enthoo EVOLV will work with atx boards or only mini atx? i already have it in my cart lol


----------



## waveaddict

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kjrayo18*
> 
> Anyone know if the Phanteks Enthoo EVOLV will work with atx boards or only mini atx? i already have it in my cart lol


http://www.phanteks.com/Enthoo-EVOLV.html

DO SOME RESEARCH PEOPLE


----------



## pshootr

Any recommendations on which fan splitters to get for the hub on the Luxe? I am thinking about getting some when I order extra fans.

I found these by Phanteks for $4.99 each, but they are "Y" splitters with only 2 connectors. So the price would add up since I would need a few of them. I'm wondering if I would run it to voltage issues if I were to use other splitters that have more connectors on them?

I would like to be able to control 9 fans from the hub. That would mean 3x the above mentioned splitters for a total of 9 fan connectors. (About $17.00-$20.00) depending on shipping, for just enough wire to fit in my hand lol.

What kind of splitters have you guys used? Or what would you use?


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bulky*
> 
> Whats the biggest rad i can fit up top in a phanteks pro? I know lenth is 420 but how thick?


38-40 mm thick max.


----------



## Bulky

What if i get rid of the cages on top?


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bulky*
> 
> What if i get rid of the cages on top?


the conflict is with the motherboard. in fact, a 420 would have a limit of 35mm. they didn't offset the mounts enough.


----------



## Bulky

Ok thanks. Im going to go for a 30mm


----------



## WHIMington

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pshootr*
> 
> Any recommendations on which fan splitters to get for the hub on the Luxe? I am thinking about getting some when I order extra fans.
> 
> I found these by Phanteks for $4.99 each, but they are "Y" splitters with only 2 connectors. So the price would add up since I would need a few of them. I'm wondering if I would run it to voltage issues if I were to use other splitters that have more connectors on them?
> 
> I would like to be able to control 9 fans from the hub. That would mean 3x the above mentioned splitters for a total of 9 fan connectors. (About $17.00-$20.00) depending on shipping, for just enough wire to fit in my hand lol.
> 
> What kind of splitters have you guys used? Or what would you use?


The hub support up to 11 fan with 2 way spliter at each channel(only 1 on the #1 channel) but I remember there is also a maximum power consumption limit writen in the manual, make sure you do the calculation, as long as the power consumption is below the maximum you should be able to use whatever spliter you want.


----------



## pshootr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WHIMington*
> 
> The hub support up to 11 fan with 2 way spliter at each channel(only 1 on the #1 channel) but I remember there is also a maximum power consumption limit writen in the manual, make sure you do the calculation, as long as the power consumption is below the maximum you should be able to use whatever spliter you want.


Oh ya that's rite! The manual did have a power consumption limit. Thanks for the reminder, I was actually only thinking about incorrect fan speeds if connecting more than 2 fans on each hub port. Very glad you brought that up. I should probably just stick to using their splitters, I would feel better giving them my business anyways.

Thanks a lot for your response. +1


----------



## MrGrievous

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PureBlackFire*
> 
> 38-40 mm thick max.


I thought someone managed to fit a Nemesis in the Luxe though? Which is a 54mm thick rad.


----------



## MrGrievous

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sharklasers*
> 
> I run 8 Enermax Twister Pressure on the small Phanteks fan hub (aftermarket) and 6 Phanteks fans on the hub that came with the Primo.
> 
> The Enermax fans are all 4 pin models.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Correct.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Using PWM (4pin) fans on variable voltage (3pin) headers means they perform the same as variable voltage (3pin) fans .. controlled with variable voltage.


Thank you both of for verifying that I can run some pmw fans through the splitter


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrGrievous*
> 
> I thought someone managed to fit a Nemesis in the Luxe though? Which is a 54mm thick rad.


the Luxe fits up to 65mm if it's a 360. we're talking about the Pro. 30mm less height.


----------



## XRogerX

I got my Phanteks Enthoo Pro on the 6th and im very happy with this choice i made , this is honestly the 3rd case i have ordered over the yrs and so far this is the only one that has the best Wire management


----------



## Reaper28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XRogerX*
> 
> I got my Phanteks Enthoo Pro on the 6th and im very happy with this choice i made , this is honestly the 3rd case i have ordered over the yrs and so far this is the only one that has the best Wire management
> 
> DSCN02401.JPG 3560k .JPG file


Nice clean setup


----------



## XRogerX

ty Reaper im not done with it yet, im going to get a few more fans and and a little lighting , but i dont know what fans i should get for exhaust


----------



## emsj86

If your talking putting fans as exhaust up top I'd put them as Intake. And leave the back as exhaust. The postivr preasure will help with dust and hot air will be pushed or any no filter area with it. Pretty much any fan will do. But never hurts to have a static preasure fan for pulling through a filter. When I had my pro on air two fans on hdd cages and one mounted in Front of the psu helped gpu temps a lot


----------



## Levelog

So the Mini XL review from Hardware Canucks on the 5th has made me want the case even more. If I didn't just lose my job I'd have that thing so quickly.


----------



## jameschisholm

I know this sounds like an odd question, but how many of you have changed to this case but not upgraded anything else? Almost like a transplant.


----------



## Raskolnikov

Does anyone know an outlet which does side panel glass replacement for the Phanteks Primo? I'd be particularly interested in having the easy to scratch acrylic glass replaced by actual glass, as done by many modders in this thread. I have *zero* manual skills.

Maybe I'm using the wrong [French] terms for my search, but so far I haven't found anyone who offers this service in the Montreal metropolitan area.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Raskolnikov*
> 
> Does anyone know an outlet which does side panel glass replacement for the Phanteks Primo? I'd be particularly interested in having the easy to scratch acrylic glass replaced by actual glass, as done by many modders in this thread. I have *zero* manual skills.
> 
> Maybe I'm using the wrong [French] terms for my search, but so far I haven't found anyone who offers this service in the Montreal metropolitan area.


the guys here used acrylic with magnets I would guess a glass panel would need a different securing option or it would rattle and make noise from the weight and composition....


----------



## Faster_is_better

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Raskolnikov*
> 
> Does anyone know an outlet which does side panel glass replacement for the Phanteks Primo? I'd be particularly interested in having the easy to scratch acrylic glass replaced by actual glass, as done by many modders in this thread. I have *zero* manual skills.
> 
> Maybe I'm using the wrong [French] terms for my search, but so far I haven't found anyone who offers this service in the Montreal metropolitan area.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> the guys here used acrylic with magnets I would guess a glass panel would need a different securing option or it would rattle and make noise from the weight and composition....
Click to expand...

Didn't some people use the 3M industrial type double sided tape too? That stuff will stick to most anything that is clean. Although glass would weigh a lot more, might get a little scary using only tape, even if it is the good stuff.


----------



## 47 Knucklehead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Faster_is_better*
> 
> Didn't some people use the 3M industrial type double sided tape too? That stuff will stick to most anything that is clean. Although glass would weigh a lot more, might get a little scary using only tape, even if it is the good stuff.


Cut the glass so that it is very large and basically the bottom part of the glass ... best to used TEMPERED glass so it doesn't easily chip or break ... basically rests on the bottom edge of the base when the door is closed. That way the case side doesn't warp when closed.

I did that on my Switch 810. I haven't messed with doing that on my Phanteks Enthoo Primo build ... YET.









[Build Log] Muzzle Flash II: The Sniper


----------



## Mark011

Subbed


----------



## fredocini

Got my Enthoo Luxe case and it is absolutely gorgeous! Haven't been able to post pics yet since new school semester has started. Parts are swapped in and I am so happy that the case comes with a PWM hub. Next on my list is the Swiftech H240X for my CPU (as recommended by a user here, I'll find the post and +rep you!).

Does anyone have any experience on whether or not the PWM fans on the H240X will have problems with the PWM hub? I'd like to know before I make an order!


----------



## Dimensive

I'm not seeing much love for the EVOLV case in here. I think that should change.


----------



## Trexxit

I want a phanteks enthoo pro, but matx. Just strink down the case, to look similar, maybe take out a 5.25 bay and only up to 140mm fan support. same or lower price and I'd be in the market.


----------



## pshootr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fredocini*
> 
> Got my Enthoo Luxe case and it is absolutely gorgeous! Haven't been able to post pics yet since new school semester has started. Parts are swapped in and I am so happy that the case comes with a PWM hub. Next on my list is the Swiftech H240X for my CPU (as recommended by a user here, I'll find the post and +rep you!).
> 
> Does anyone have any experience on whether or not the PWM fans on the H240X will have problems with the PWM hub? I'd like to know before I make an order!


Any fans will work on the hub.

The hub will receive PWM signal from your PWM-CPU fan header on the MB, and then use voltage control to regulate any fan that you have attached to the hub.

Just keep in mind, while the H240X is the best out of the AIO units, it is still only a small gain from high end air coolers. So if you really want a significant edge on cooling, then you may consider a loop.


----------



## Levelog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trexxit*
> 
> I want a phanteks enthoo pro, but matx. Just strink down the case, to look similar, maybe take out a 5.25 bay and only up to 140mm fan support. same or lower price and I'd be in the market.


Does the Mini XL not satisfy most of that? Sure, it's a bit roomy up top, but that just means more rad room.


----------



## pshootr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dimensive*
> 
> I'm not seeing much love for the EVOLV case in here. I think that should change.


I hear there is a newer version of the Evolve coming out, and some people are hyped about it. Personally the EVOLVE just dosn't do it for me. I love my LUXE though


----------



## greg1184

Anyone use the molex output for LED strip on the primo? I have the NZXT LED strip but it has a 2 pin connector. I found a 2 pin to molex connector. Can I use this to bypass the PCI connector so I don't have to waste a PCI slot?


----------



## Dimensive

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pshootr*
> 
> I hear there is a newer version of the Evolve coming out, and some people are hyped about it. Personally the EVOLVE just dosn't do it for me. I love my LUXE though


Yea, I see the EVOLV ATX & ITX cases announced at CES. Both look really nice.


----------



## pshootr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trexxit*
> 
> I want a phanteks enthoo pro, but matx. Just strink down the case, to look similar, maybe take out a 5.25 bay and only up to 140mm fan support. same or lower price and I'd be in the market.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dimensive*
> 
> Yea, I see the EVOLV ATX & ITX cases announced at CES. Both look really nice.


I guess if you need that space age look, then the evolve is cool









But it is smaller and does not have as much flexibility as the Luxe. Plus I really like the looks of the Luxe better, just personal preference for that.


----------



## Dimensive

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pshootr*
> 
> I guess if you need that space age look, then the evolve is cool
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But it is smaller and does not have as much flexibility as the Luxe. Plus I really like the looks of the Luxe better, just personal preference for that.


Yea, everyone has their own preference. I prefer mATX because I don't put a lot of drives in and since I game in 1080p, I don't need to run a multi GPU rig.


----------



## fredocini

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pshootr*
> 
> Any fans will work on the hub.
> 
> The hub will receive PWM signal from your PWM-CPU fan header on the MB, and then use voltage control to regulate any fan that you have attached to the hub.
> 
> Just keep in mind, while the H240X is the best out of the AIO units, it is still only a small gain from high end air coolers. So if you really want a significant edge on cooling, then you may consider a loop.


I want and plan to eventually. Believe me. This is mainly for the aesthetics, I love my D14 but the fans are just so damn ugly. I don't think going full LC is worth it for me atm because my current parts are aging and I plan on building an entire new rig at the end of this year and WILL start my journey into *real* water-cooling. It'll also make it easier for me to transfer my current parts into my DEFINE XL R2 when I venture into the new goodies.









Thank you for the information though!


----------



## pshootr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fredocini*
> 
> I want and plan to eventually. Believe me. This is mainly for the aesthetics, I love my D14 but the fans are just so damn ugly. I don't think going full LC is worth it for me atm because my current parts are aging and I plan on building an entire new rig at the end of this year and WILL start my journey into *real* water-cooling. It'll also make it easier for me to transfer my current parts into my DEFINE XL R2 when I venture into the new goodies.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thank you for the information though!


No problem.









I understand. I am actually apprehensive about water cooling myself, due to inherent risks. Although I must say it is quite tempting. Having said that, I am at a similar posistion. Even if I did want to make to jump to a loop, I think the money could be more well spent elsewhere for me as well.









I liked your response a lot. Here is your fist rep, hehe







+1


----------



## Sharklasers

As far as I can see you can branch out into a full loop configuration later on when you have a H240X, I think TallGray on here has done that, so that may be a good starting point.

I just finished my first water build myself and I probably overspent quite a bit more than my configuration actually needed, guess I'll call it future proofing for now since I will probably keep most parts in the loop a lot longer than the hardware.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fredocini*
> 
> I want and plan to eventually. Believe me. This is mainly for the aesthetics, I love my D14 but the fans are just so damn ugly. I don't think going full LC is worth it for me atm because my current parts are aging and I plan on building an entire new rig at the end of this year and WILL start my journey into *real* water-cooling. It'll also make it easier for me to transfer my current parts into my DEFINE XL R2 when I venture into the new goodies.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thank you for the information though!


Despite what you were just told......the H240-X is a small loop made up of top quality discrete components that is pre-assembled due to the demand for this. It is comprised of an MCP30 pump, 240QP radiator and Apogee XL CPU block. In other words, it already is _real_ water cooling, and happens to be a great small loop on its own, or a great start to an expanded loop.

This _is_ the beginning of your journey into real water cooling.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Despite what you were just told......the H240-X is a small loop made up of top quality discrete components that is pre-assembled due to the demand for this. It is comprised of an MCP30 pump, 240QP radiator and Apogee XL CPU block. In other words, it already is _real_ water cooling, and happens to be a great small loop on its own, or a great start to an expanded loop.
> 
> This _is_ the beginning of your journey into real water cooling.


I've got about 400 or so in my loop now but the h220-x and H240-X do great by themselves.then when you make case move you have expansion ability for gpu mobo blocks and a couple extra rads....my initial setup with h220x and a used rad with fittings was around 200 dollars...


----------



## RAROCK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RAROCK*
> 
> Hi,
> 
> Just rebuilt and upgraded from a Corsair 650D to a Phanteks Enthoo Primo SE Black/Gold. WOW what an amazing difference the build quality and space is unreal.
> 
> My Specs
> 
> Phanteks Enthoo Primo SE Black/Gold
> Msi Mpower mb
> Intel I7 4770K o/c 4ghz
> 16gb Vengance Ram 1600mhz
> 2 x R9 290/290X in Crossfire
> Superflower 1000w Platinum psu fully modular
> Intel 480gb 720 ssd
> intel 180gb 520 ssd
> Corsair H100 Cooler
> using corsair 4 x 120mm af120
> 
> Just waiting for my AX360 xpsc with photon/D5 Combo Reservoir to watercool this baby.
> 
> cpu 1st then when i can afford it the gpu's (also 1st watercool build, so going easy)


So here's my updated rig after installing my water cooling

awaiting yellow led's for waterblock.

used Mayhem's Namron yellow dye


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RAROCK*
> 
> So here's my updated rig after installing my water cooling
> 
> awaiting yellow led's for waterblock.
> 
> used Mayhem's Namron yellow dye


Looking good!


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Looking good!


yeah I dig that gold case...
But I was thinking how is your bottom gpu cooling itself at all?


----------



## greg1184

I ended up using a bay reservoir because the Bitspower 270 tube reservoir doesn't fit with the ASUS strix. I am currently leak testing it right now but it seems nice and sealed so far with my compression fittings






Its a work in progress. All I have left is to put LED and UV cold cathodes.


----------



## jimthenagual

I'm finding my front 200mm fan on the Luxe to be a bit too loud, and I don't seem to be able to change the RPMs in my bios for some reason (Asrock Z97 Extreme4). I've tried each chassis fan individually in the bios and set them to quiet mode, but the 200mm fan remains loud.

I'm thinking of swapping it out for two 140mm AF140 quiet edition fans, but before I do

1. Is there a way to slow down that 200mm fan?
2. Would two 140mm fans create MORE airflow or less? I'm running SLI and want to keep the airflow up.

Thank you guys, appreciate your time in advance.


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jimthenagual*
> 
> I'm finding my front 200mm fan on the Luxe to be a bit too loud, and I don't seem to be able to change the RPMs in my bios for some reason (Asrock Z97 Extreme4). I've tried each chassis fan individually in the bios and set them to quiet mode, but the 200mm fan remains loud.
> 
> I'm thinking of swapping it out for two 140mm AF140 quiet edition fans, but before I do
> 
> 1. Is there a way to slow down that 200mm fan?
> 2. Would two 140mm fans create MORE airflow or less? I'm running SLI and want to keep the airflow up.
> 
> Thank you guys, appreciate your time in advance.


the 200 mm fan is bust. I replaced mine with two 140's from phanteks, the same that come with the case. they can be run at lower rpm which is what I'm doing and yes, two 140's move more air than a single 200 will.


----------



## owcraftsman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PureBlackFire*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *jimthenagual*
> 
> I'm finding my front 200mm fan on the Luxe to be a bit too loud, and I don't seem to be able to change the RPMs in my bios for some reason (Asrock Z97 Extreme4). I've tried each chassis fan individually in the bios and set them to quiet mode, but the 200mm fan remains loud.
> 
> I'm thinking of swapping it out for two 140mm AF140 quiet edition fans, but before I do
> 
> 1. Is there a way to slow down that 200mm fan?
> 2. Would two 140mm fans create MORE airflow or less? I'm running SLI and want to keep the airflow up.
> 
> Thank you guys, appreciate your time in advance.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> the 200 mm fan is bust. I replaced mine with two 140's from phanteks, the same that come with the case. they can be run at lower rpm which is what I'm doing and yes, two 140's move more air than a single 200 will.
Click to expand...

I agree 2x 140 way more static pressure and a much better option

For controlling the speed grab one of these they are cheap concealable and very effective


----------



## PureBlackFire

update on my build progress:


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## jimthenagual

Wow, that is scrumptious PureBlackFire. Just beautiful.


----------



## SamOwens

I use these. They don't fit the fan control but I prefer the board plugs anyhow


----------



## pshootr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PureBlackFire*
> 
> update on my build progress:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Wow, very nice job. Looks nice and clean!


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jimthenagual*
> 
> Wow, that is scrumptious PureBlackFire. Just beautiful.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pshootr*
> 
> Wow, very nice job. Looks nice and clean!


thanks.


----------



## MrGrievous

Would it be unavised to use a 3 pin 3 way spliter on one of the hubs to the controller so long as I dont reach the 30 W of max power output? Which if using Phanteks fans at .2 amps I can 12.5 fans but obviously you cant have half a fan lol.


----------



## owcraftsman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PureBlackFire*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *jimthenagual*
> 
> Wow, that is scrumptious PureBlackFire. Just beautiful.
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *pshootr*
> 
> Wow, very nice job. Looks nice and clean!
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> thanks.
Click to expand...

Yes it certainly looks nice but, a question, if the out port from your pump is going into the rad drain port aren't you using only half the radiator? Maybe I'm looking at it wrong it is late here.


----------



## Reaper28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PureBlackFire*
> 
> update on my build progress:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Looks good, the white really stands out. Do you plan on cooling the GPU too?


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PureBlackFire*
> 
> update on my build progress:


Good looking build. It's pics like this that constantly have me tempted to move my main rig out of my Primo and into my Luxe.


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *owcraftsman*
> 
> Yes it certainly looks nice but, a question, if the out port from your pump is going into the rad drain port aren't you using only half the radiator? Maybe I'm looking at it wrong it is late here.


the tube out of my pump is being run behind the motherboard tray to a port right above my 8-pin cpu power plug. the drain port is on the side by my front panel I/O. here's the rad I'm using: Coolgate 360
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Reaper28*
> 
> Looks good, the white really stands out. Do you plan on cooling the GPU too?


if I decide I'm sticking with the 970 for at least a year. I'll buy another and some blocks.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Good looking build. It's pics like this that constantly have me tempted to move my main rig out of my Primo and into my Luxe.


if you don't need 480 rads the Luxe is pretty capable for most builds.


----------



## Reaper28

@PureBlackFire, nice. This might be an odd question, but do you have any pics of the top of the case with the rad installed? like looking down


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Reaper28*
> 
> @PureBlackFire, nice. This might be an odd question, but do you have any pics of the top of the case with the rad installed? like looking down


----------



## Reaper28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PureBlackFire*


Perfect thanks, just wanted to see how the rad lined up.


----------



## owcraftsman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PureBlackFire*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *owcraftsman*
> 
> Yes it certainly looks nice but, a question, if the out port from your pump is going into the rad drain port aren't you using only half the radiator? Maybe I'm looking at it wrong it is late here.
> 
> 
> 
> the tube out of my pump is being run behind the motherboard tray to a port right above my 8-pin cpu power plug. the drain port is on the side by my front panel I/O. here's the rad I'm using: Coolgate 360
Click to expand...

Oh that's hard to see in those pics which is a good thing. Thanks for sharing


----------



## 47 Knucklehead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PureBlackFire*


Awesome!

I use nearly the same fan, except since my Enthoo Primo is black, I have the black and orange ones, not the orange and white (which better match your white case).


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *47 Knucklehead*
> 
> Awesome!
> 
> I use nearly the same fan, except since my Enthoo Primo is black, I have the black and orange ones, not the orange and white (which better match your white case).


thanks. I painted the fans white. I haven't done the third one yet.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PureBlackFire*
> 
> thanks. I painted the fans white. I haven't done the third one yet.


ironically I ordered a pack of the all black ones and they came black and orange si I just used them rather than returning and all that crap


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Good looking build. It's pics like this that constantly have me tempted to move my main rig out of my Primo and into my Luxe.


I'm considering the opposite from my pro to the Primo for rad space and hideaway psu cover which I can't use on my pro with my 280 rad


----------



## MrGrievous

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PureBlackFire*
> 
> 
> [/SPOILER]


Im gonna guess and assume another set of fans wont be able to fit on the inside due to the mobo heat sink?


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrGrievous*
> 
> Im gonna guess and assume another set of fans wont be able to fit on the inside due to the mobo heat sink?


that's correct. even if I remove the heatsink (I had it off for a week when I was painting it) the ram would be in the way. the thickest 240/360 rad that can push/pull in the Luxe is a 54mm. that's if you have no vrm heatsink or a very flat one, put the fans on the bottom of the rad before it goes in the case and connect your 8-pin first as well. and that's gonna sit maybe 2mm above the ram. my rad is 60mm so no chance.


----------



## Tunz

@PureBlackFire Nice build! It's hard to tell from the pics but are those black and white stickers on the ram? If so, where did you get them?


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tunz*
> 
> @PureBlackFire Nice build! It's hard to tell from the pics but are those black and white stickers on the ram? If so, where did you get them?


no. I sent my ram to @LaBestiaHumana and he sand blasted the red fins and laser etched the sides. I have the stickers that came on the ram in the package. here's an upclose look:


----------



## Tunz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PureBlackFire*
> 
> no. I sent my ram to @LaBestiaHumana and he sand blasted the red fins and laser etched the sides. I have the stickers that came on the ram in the package. here's an upclose look:


Thanks for the quick response. That looks really good.


----------



## Malik

project GRAY


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Beautiful


----------



## jameschisholm

I've never seen tubing orientated like that before, so clean!


----------



## 47 Knucklehead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jameschisholm*
> 
> I've never seen tubing orientated like that before, so clean!


That's the wonderful thing about the Phantek Enthoo Primo. Because of it's design, you can easily put 1/2" diameter tubing BEHIND the motherboard tray and "hide" most of the plumbing and only see what you want to see ... in his case, the GPU and CPU. All the rest can be hidden behind the back side and the hard drive panel.

It is an awesome look. Very clean.


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Malik*
> 
> project GRAY
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


very good looking build.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *47 Knucklehead*
> 
> That's the wonderful thing about the Phantek Enthoo Primo. Because of it's design, you can easily put 1/2" diameter tubing BEHIND the motherboard tray and "hide" most of the plumbing and only see what you want to see ... in his case, the GPU and CPU. All the rest can be hidden behind the back side and the hard drive panel.
> 
> It is an awesome look. Very clean.


that's why I chose 1/2" tubing. tucks away nicely behind the motherboard tray.


----------



## emsj86

@malik that blue makes the build pop. Gives it that small but big time wow that's nice effect. I like these builds rather than over the top builds


----------



## laxboimike

Decided to change my fans and do a double loop. Thought the blue and green would look cool. I have blue corsair fans on the outside and green corsair fans on the inside. I have three rads all in push pull and I added a aquero 6XT to control everything. Tell me what you guys think!







[/URL]


----------



## laxboimike

here is the actually build!


----------



## GOLDDUBBY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Malik*
> 
> project GRAY


One of the best looking builds I've ever seen!


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GOLDDUBBY*
> 
> One of the best looking builds I've ever seen!


every one of these i see makes me want the primo more.... sigh...


----------



## emsj86

very nice malik would like to know the type of coolant your using either way great job


----------



## pshootr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GOLDDUBBY*
> 
> One of the best looking builds I've ever seen!


Indeed. Very stealthy and overall an extremely nice looking build.

I am jelly


----------



## WHIMington

This is the first time I see someone having both the CPU and GPU runs parallel, looks very neat!


----------



## emsj86

Do you think it is possible to get an acrylic sheet than cut it slightly larger than the side window. Than use a dremel with a sand band to sand it down so it will fit flush like the originally window does or am I having a pipe dream


----------



## SynerOnline

few pictures of my own enthoo build

Finished installing everything except the second 980 and my custom cabling still to come, and need to eliminate some light bleed from the custom window I finished.


----------



## emsj86

What did you do for the custom window. Just a acrylic sheet with magents ?


----------



## Infernum

Hi guys, just bought this case thanks to this thread








Will be refreshing my x58 build with an Xeon hex.

Have a question about watercooling though, I posted it in the watercooling section if anybody could offer an opinion?
http://www.overclock.net/t/1535628/best-radiator-option-for-top-of-enthoo-primo


----------



## emsj86

Is the enthoo pro suppose to come with pump bracket bc I don't see it? Also it seems it can mount in the slots for the 120 fans. So I'm thinking I can drill a hole or two and mount it on top of my sp120 fans than mount my pump to it rather than how I have it here


----------



## PureBlackFire

the enthoo pro does not come with a pump bracket. yes, it lines up with the holes on 120mm fans.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Is the enthoo pro suppose to come with pump bracket bc I don't see it? [...]


The pump bracket does come included with the Luxe but must be purchased separately for the Pro.

From the Pro manual:





Compare that to the Luxe manual:


----------



## emsj86

I think it might work out well to dremel out a circle and mount the ddc pump ek housing to it than mount it onto my 240 rad. that or im thinking of getting ek uni bracket and mounting it directly to the reservior holder (which will require drilling my own holes since they don't line up perfect. Hmm I ll see how it looks when i receive the rest of my parts. thank you though for the answer


----------



## MrGrievous

Hmmm I wonder how a white Luxe would look with a window mod like that.


----------



## sugalumps

Anyone got the nzxt hue in the pro? Would love to see how it looks, and how easy it was to install/stick round the pro.


----------



## Cloudy

Phanteks released two new color sets of the Primo today.


----------



## SynerOnline

Indeed
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> What did you do for the custom window. Just a acrylic sheet with magents ?


, indeed a smoked acrylic panel some black wrap to make an edge for the window and some magnets to hold it on, slightly miss measured the panel so I have a 2mm gap each side but I'm going to be sorting that soon


----------



## arkansaswoman22

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cloudy*
> 
> Phanteks released two new color sets of the Primo today.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


omg black and red...too bad its not the luxe


----------



## Reaper28

Out of curiosity is anybody using a Luxe or a Pro with a XSPC D5 Photon or the D5 Dual Bay Reservoir? I plan on buying one and want to see how it looks in the case and how people have it setup


----------



## Infernum

Quick Fan question regarding PH-F140XP and SP Fans:

The fans Will be plugged into the Enthoo Hub

For 140mm Radiator Fans in this Case, it would be best to buy the PH-F140*XP* right?
It seems to be the same as the PH-F140*SP* in terms of Spec/performance. But there is the option of being able to control the speed if it was plugged into a regular 4pin header in future.

Am just wanting to make sure I am not missing/confusing anything?


----------



## VulgarDisplay88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Infernum*
> 
> Quick Fan question regarding PH-F140XP and SP Fans:
> 
> The fans Will be plugged into the Enthoo Hub
> 
> For 140mm Radiator Fans in this Case, it would be best to buy the PH-F140*XP* right?
> It seems to be the same as the PH-F140*SP* in terms of Spec/performance. But there is the option of being able to control the speed if it was plugged into a regular 4pin header in future.
> 
> Am just wanting to make sure I am not missing/confusing anything?


Not missing anything. Get the XP versions.


----------



## Faster_is_better

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cloudy*
> 
> Phanteks released two new color sets of the Primo today.


Source? They look great.


----------



## waveaddict

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VulgarDisplay88*
> 
> Not missing anything. Get the XP versions.


Get the MP's there designed for rads.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835709036


----------



## Cloudy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Faster_is_better*
> 
> Source? They look great.


From their



__ https://www.facebook.com/Phanteks/posts/1175356605831489


page.


----------



## jameschisholm

I'd prefer a custom colour of black exterior, white interior.


----------



## pshootr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jameschisholm*
> 
> I'd prefer a custom colour of black exterior, white interior.


Personally I am very surprised that white has caught on like it has. I really don't care for white in or on my pc. The only thing I can see, is that lighting will have more of an effect.









I prefer the more classic/stealthy look.


----------



## atomicus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pshootr*
> 
> Personally I am very surprised that white has caught on like it has. I really don't care for white in or on my pc. The only thing I can see, is that lighting will have more of an effect.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I prefer the more classic/stealthy look.


Why surprised? Black boxes have been around for eons. I'm surprised people have put up with them as long as they have to be honest!


----------



## pshootr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *atomicus*
> 
> Why surprised? Black boxes have been around for eons. I'm surprised people have put up with them as long as they have to be honest!


LOL. Well damn, I got a taste of my own medicine didn't I..


----------



## ciarlatano

I was never a fan of white cases, and I'm still not. However, the white Luxe is definitely an exception. I was floored withe how great looking it is when I took it out of the box.


----------



## atomicus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pshootr*
> 
> LOL. Well damn, I got a taste of my own medicine didn't I..


They have though... longer than the beige plastic monstrosities of the mid 90's which we can all be thankful have never come back in to fashion. There's been precious little innovation in case design in the past decade, and it's great to see the likes of Phanteks and NZXT thinking outside the box more, not just in terms of the actual design but colour also. White isn't for everyone of course, but no one can argue choice isn't a great thing.


----------



## pshootr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *atomicus*
> 
> They have though... longer than the beige plastic monstrosities of the mid 90's which we can all be thankful have never come back in to fashion. There's been precious little innovation in case design in the past decade, and it's great to see the likes of Phanteks and NZXT thinking outside the box more, not just in terms of the actual design but colour also. White isn't for everyone of course, but no one can argue choice isn't a great thing.


Very true lol. Its been so long since I had a beige case that I forgot all about them lol.


----------



## Faster_is_better

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cloudy*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Faster_is_better*
> 
> Source? They look great.
> 
> 
> 
> From their
> 
> 
> 
> __ https://www.facebook.com/Phanteks/posts/1175356605831489
> 
> 
> page.
Click to expand...

Thanks. The pictures seem off, at least the Orange colored one looks strange. If you compare it to newegg's product pics it looks like a really bright awesome color of Orange, but Phanteks shots make it look much less bright. That green one would make a sweet nVidia themed case and the red one could fit basically 90% of people's themes lol.

Off topic but Thermaltake are seriously stepping up in case market, this is looking pretty dang good... like a CM Stacker concept done much better. Core X9


----------



## jassilamba

Hey guys, hope everyone is doing great. I just wanted to stop in and say hi. For those who do not know me I'm Jesse, or Captain CurrySauce, and I did the Enthoo Primo review that is on the modzoo.com. I'm currently working on the review for the mini XL, and I just wanted to stop in and ask if you guys had any questions on the case that I could answer for you guys. For reference you can see the FAQ posted on the modzoo review, or the first post by the OP. I got to meet Boon at CES 2015, and it was nice to meet with the guys behind the case, and the other products.

Feel free to drop me a line if you have any questions, I will answer those in my review.

Thanks for all your support guys.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pshootr*
> 
> Very true lol. Its been so long since I had a beige case that I forgot all about them lol.


ive still got three in my closet... one of them i could probably use as a fire safe :0


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Faster_is_better*
> 
> [...] *Off topic but Thermaltake are seriously stepping up in case market, this is looking pretty dang good... like a CM Stacker concept done much better. Core X9*


If by '_stepping up_' and '_pretty dang good_' you mean a complete and total rip off of Caselabs Mercury case line except extremely cheaply made with a dash of ugly added to them, then I'm with you. On that note the comparison with the CM HAF Stacker is apropos.

Anyone who buys one of those TT cases should prepare themselves for the ridicule they will receive on forums such as this, similar to the disparaging comments so often shelled out to HAF Stacker owners. Actually I suspect it will be much worse. A company can't just blatantly rip off a product line of a company so beloved in these parts like Caselabs is and have their products warrant even a shred of respect. It's a cheap wannabe knock-off.

For their part, TT should feel relieved that Caselabs is taking it all in stride, imitation is the sincerest form of flattery and all that, but don't expect everyone else to take the high road.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jassilamba*
> 
> Hey guys, hope everyone is doing great. I just wanted to stop in and say hi. For those who do not know me I'm Jesse, or Captain CurrySauce, and I did the Enthoo Primo review that is on the modzoo.com. I'm currently working on the review for the mini XL, and I just wanted to stop in and ask if you guys had any questions on the case that I could answer for you guys. For reference you can see the FAQ posted on the modzoo review, or the first post by the OP. I got to meet Boon at CES 2015, and it was nice to meet with the guys behind the case, and the other products.
> 
> Feel free to drop me a line if you have any questions, I will answer those in my review.
> 
> Thanks for all your support guys.


Rep+


----------



## owcraftsman

I'll hold my thoughts until the new TT line is reviewed. From what I see of the design I like it. I could give a sheet less what others think if they are wrong. Phanteks isn't at the top of the heap yet and certainly didn't start there either but I digress this is way off topic.


----------



## waveaddict

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> If by '_stepping up_' and '_pretty dang good_' you mean a complete and total rip off of Caselabs Mercury case line except extremely cheaply made with a dash of ugly added to them, then I'm with you. On that note the comparison with the CM HAF Stacker is apropos.
> 
> Anyone who buys one of those TT cases should prepare themselves for the ridicule they will receive on forums such as this, similar to the disparaging comments so often shelled out to HAF Stacker owners. Actually I suspect it will be much worse. A company can't just blatantly rip off a product line of a company so beloved in these parts like Caselabs is and have their products warrant even a shred of respect. It's a cheap wannabe knock-off.
> 
> For their part, TT should feel relieved that Caselabs is taking it all in stride, imitation is the sincerest form of flattery and all that, but don't expect everyone else to take the high road.
> Rep+


Absolutly agree.I can't believe how bad TT stabbed CL in the face.That X9 loooks just like the S8S.


----------



## HammerNL




----------



## Freaxy

Anyone here that encountered the problem with bottom radiator mounting on the enthoo primo?
I'm trying to mount my 480 rad in the bottom, but the alphacool screws require a washer and that interferes with the dust filters.
I'm thinking of getting some sunken m3 screws, will this work? It's not gonna have much hold without washer, but at least it's something.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *waveaddict*
> 
> Absolutly agree.I can't believe how bad TT stabbed CL in the face.That X9 loooks just like the S8S.


I agree that it holds a lot of the same looks and styling as the case labs case but case labs could care less as they cater to the high end enthusiasts and know that people that are doing that caliber of build will come to them....for a cheapskate like me the tt case would be a consideration if I was looking to build again...I prefer standard styling of cases but after looking at that case I thought damn alot of modularity to it...to get those exact options with a case labs case you are looking at probably 600 bucks vs 160...if the styling wasn't the same you might be hailing it as innovative. ..


----------



## maskymus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Freaxy*
> 
> Anyone here that encountered the problem with bottom radiator mounting on the enthoo primo?.


Sorry to provide you bad news, but sunken m3 screws will not hold the rad without the washers. I experienced the same issue: couldn't fit the bottom filter with the washer+head M3. M3 head just slides through the mounting holes and I couldn't find any M3 screw with larger heads.
Solution used: upgraded all rad holes to m4. The height of the M4 head is the same as M3, but it's wider, so no need to use a washer. Photos of the Alphacool rad with M4 can be found in my build log.


----------



## morganism

Currently putting an ASUS x99 Deluxe mobo inside of a Phanteks Enthoo Primo Rev2 with a h110 cooler.

Quick question regarding the Enthoo Primo's fan controller/hub.

Currently have 6 case fans (5x 140mm that came with the case + 1x120mm extra on top) and 2x more 140mm fans that came with the h110. Total of 8 fans.

Wondering if anyone is familiar with this mobo/case combo and if the following will work okay? Sorry for noobishness but any help MUCH appreciated!

- h110 pump plugged into the CPU fan header
- first h110 fan into the CPU opt header
- second h110 fan into the CHA_FAN 3
- all remaining case fans going to the Primo's onboard fan hub/controller which in turn goes to CHA_FAN 4

1. Do I need to plug in the moelx power for the fan hub or will the mobo be able to power the fans? There is a warning on the molex power adapter but I can't find the answer to if it is needed or not.

2. Will I get responsive PWM control of all the case fans plugged into the hub, even if they are not plugged into the CPU fan header? All of the mobo fan headers are four pin and I believe all support PWM control...But if someone could confirm this that would be great.

3. I do not currently have any fans plugged into the first slot on the Primo fan hub. The original post said:

Important Note:
1 motherboard connector can only read 1 RPM signal. Therefore, the motherboard will only read the RPM signal from1 device connected to FAN 1. The RPM from all other devices will be regulated according to FAN 1. Y-splitter should not be connected to FAN 1.

Does this mean I need to have a fan plugged into the FAN 1 slot in order to get any PWM control over the Primo hub fans?

4. If I do need to plug the fan hub into the CPU fan header or the CPUOPT in order to get PWM control, are the h110 pump/fans okay going through a chassis fan header instead?

Basically looking to have the h110 fans and pump be controlled via PWM in BIOS, and have the case fans also controlled via PWM in BIOS separately. So I apply custom curves for both.

Thank you for the time and apologies if this post is not in the right location!


----------



## jassilamba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morganism*
> 
> Currently putting an ASUS x99 Deluxe mobo inside of a Phanteks Enthoo Primo Rev2 with a h110 cooler.
> 
> Quick question regarding the Enthoo Primo's fan controller/hub.
> 
> Currently have 6 case fans (5x 140mm that came with the case + 1x120mm extra on top) and 2x more 140mm fans that came with the h110. Total of 8 fans.
> 
> Wondering if anyone is familiar with this mobo/case combo and if the following will work okay? Sorry for noobishness but any help MUCH appreciated!
> 
> - h110 pump plugged into the CPU fan header
> - first h110 fan into the CPU opt header
> - second h110 fan into the CHA_FAN 3
> - all remaining case fans going to the Primo's onboard fan hub/controller which in turn goes to CHA_FAN 4
> 
> 1. Do I need to plug in the moelx power for the fan hub or will the mobo be able to power the fans? There is a warning on the molex power adapter but I can't find the answer to if it is needed or not.
> 
> 2. Will I get responsive PWM control of all the case fans plugged into the hub, even if they are not plugged into the CPU fan header? All of the mobo fan headers are four pin and I believe all support PWM control...But if someone could confirm this that would be great.
> 
> 3. I do not currently have any fans plugged into the first slot on the Primo fan hub. The original post said:
> 
> Important Note:
> 1 motherboard connector can only read 1 RPM signal. Therefore, the motherboard will only read the RPM signal from1 device connected to FAN 1. The RPM from all other devices will be regulated according to FAN 1. Y-splitter should not be connected to FAN 1.
> 
> Does this mean I need to have a fan plugged into the FAN 1 slot in order to get any PWM control over the Primo hub fans?
> 
> 4. If I do need to plug the fan hub into the CPU fan header or the CPUOPT in order to get PWM control, are the h110 pump/fans okay going through a chassis fan header instead?
> 
> Basically looking to have the h110 fans and pump be controlled via PWM in BIOS, and have the case fans also controlled via PWM in BIOS separately. So I apply custom curves for both.
> 
> Thank you for the time and apologies if this post is not in the right location!


1. Yes, you need to plug in the molex power on the fan hub. The hub is designed to just take a the PWM signal from your mobo, and let you control all those fans from one header.
2. Your mobo should let you control all the fans that are plugged into it. Keep in mind, that fans plugged into the fan hub will all run at the same RPM (given you are running the same fans on the hub)
3. Yes, if you want to make sure your fan hub can control the fans, you need to have a fan in the FAN 1 slot.
4. Yes they are, with your board, and the FAN expert software, you should able to tune them as needed. Keep in mind that you can plug in the fan hub PWM cable into any open slot on your board, and set it however way you want.

In my review build, I used the fan hub to control the 8 fans that I had on the monsta 480 rad, and used couple swiftech PWM hubs to control the rest of the fans on my other rad, and the case.


----------



## Freaxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *maskymus*
> 
> Sorry to provide you bad news, but sunken m3 screws will not hold the rad without the washers. I experienced the same issue: couldn't fit the bottom filter with the washer+head M3. M3 head just slides through the mounting holes and I couldn't find any M3 screw with larger heads.
> Solution used: upgraded all rad holes to m4. The height of the M4 head is the same as M3, but it's wider, so no need to use a washer. Photos of the Alphacool rad with M4 can be found in my build log.


I just came from the local DIY shop and found a solution.
The philips head sunken screws wouldn't work because the head was too narrow.
It seems like flat head sunken screws got a bigger head. It hasn't got much hold, but enough to not go through the holes.

*EDIT:*
Even better, M3 flat head sunken screws with M4 or even M5 washers. The sunken head sinks into the washer but with more grip than on the case without washers.


----------



## morganism

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jassilamba*
> 
> 1. Yes, you need to plug in the molex power on the fan hub. The hub is designed to just take a the PWM signal from your mobo, and let you control all those fans from one header.
> 2. Your mobo should let you control all the fans that are plugged into it. Keep in mind, that fans plugged into the fan hub will all run at the same RPM (given you are running the same fans on the hub)
> 3. Yes, if you want to make sure your fan hub can control the fans, you need to have a fan in the FAN 1 slot.
> 4. Yes they are, with your board, and the FAN expert software, you should able to tune them as needed. Keep in mind that you can plug in the fan hub PWM cable into any open slot on your board, and set it however way you want.
> 
> In my review build, I used the fan hub to control the 8 fans that I had on the monsta 480 rad, and used couple swiftech PWM hubs to control the rest of the fans on my other rad, and the case.


Thanks for the advice!

I'm still a bit worried about plugging in the molex power for the Primo's fan hub as it has a label saying 'Only connect this molex cable if your motherboard doesn't provide sufficient power.' The mobo instructions say the CPUFAN header 'supports the CPU fan maximum of 1A (12W) fan power. Not sure about the other fan headers. Think that will be enough on its own?

I'm worried as there is a guy on youtube who had his Primo's fan controller catch on fire from plugging in the molex power....Anything to be lost by trying it without the molex power first (Sorry for noobishness) ?


----------



## Reaper28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrGrievous*
> 
> Im gonna guess and assume another set of fans wont be able to fit on the inside due to the mobo heat sink?


One last question, what res / pump are you running? it seems to fit better then a Photon would


----------



## doyll

Just saw TheModZoo CES2015 talk with Phanteks





Some really nice thing coming along.
Really like the looks of the Enthoo Evolv ATX case.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morganism*
> 
> Thanks for the advice!
> 
> I'm still a bit worried about plugging in the molex power for the Primo's fan hub as it has a label saying 'Only connect this molex cable if your motherboard doesn't provide sufficient power.' The mobo instructions say the CPUFAN header 'supports the CPU fan maximum of 1A (12W) fan power. Not sure about the other fan headers. Think that will be enough on its own?
> 
> I'm worried as there is a guy on youtube who had his Primo's fan controller catch on fire from plugging in the molex power....Anything to be lost by trying it without the molex power first (Sorry for noobishness) ?


I would try it without see if your fans spin up based on the pwm you have set if they don't you need to power it


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Just saw TheModZoo CES2015 talk with Phanteks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some really nice thing coming along.
> Really like the looks of the Enthoo Evolv ATX case.


Ya you and me both ATX looks like the perfect case!, sadly I just can't justify switching cases so soon, and I'm really disappointed with the mITX not being ALU , I might still buy it tho as I need a case for my maximus impact build. Phanteks is looking like it will soon be the number one case manufacturer if they keep up the awesome work and innovative ideas they been doing!


----------



## jassilamba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morganism*
> 
> Thanks for the advice!
> 
> I'm still a bit worried about plugging in the molex power for the Primo's fan hub as it has a label saying 'Only connect this molex cable if your motherboard doesn't provide sufficient power.' The mobo instructions say the CPUFAN header 'supports the CPU fan maximum of 1A (12W) fan power. Not sure about the other fan headers. Think that will be enough on its own?
> 
> I'm worried as there is a guy on youtube who had his Primo's fan controller catch on fire from plugging in the molex power....Anything to be lost by trying it without the molex power first (Sorry for noobishness) ?


That ITX is gonna be a killer case. I would not be surprised to see a full Alu version of that case down the line. But 69.99 that is a heck of a deal. I was really impressed by the slide in fan/rad mount.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morganism*
> 
> Thanks for the advice!
> 
> I'm still a bit worried about plugging in the molex power for the Primo's fan hub as it has a label saying 'Only connect this molex cable if your motherboard doesn't provide sufficient power.' The mobo instructions say the CPUFAN header 'supports the CPU fan maximum of 1A (12W) fan power. Not sure about the other fan headers. Think that will be enough on its own?
> 
> I'm worried as there is a guy on youtube who had his Primo's fan controller catch on fire from plugging in the molex power....Anything to be lost by trying it without the molex power first (Sorry for noobishness) ?


I had mine plugged in and had no issues. I guess it also matters as to what fans you are running. I rather have the fan hub go up in flames, then damage anything on the motherboard. Also keep in mind that my enthoo was a review sample. Once I get home, I will take a look at the fan hub on the mini xl.


----------



## morganism

Finally put everything together today and it all seems to be working. Plugged in the molex power for the fan hub and kept and eye on it for a while with the fans maxed out. So heat build up or anything noticably wrong so all good!


----------



## RAROCK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RAROCK*
> 
> So here's my updated rig after installing my water cooling
> 
> awaiting yellow led's for waterblock.
> 
> used Mayhem's Namron yellow dye


Changed Coolant after reading that mayhems aurora is just for show, lol. my 1st watercooling mistake

here's the change / Mathem's yellow sunset pastel


----------



## Faster_is_better

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RAROCK*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *RAROCK*
> 
> So here's my updated rig after installing my water cooling
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> awaiting yellow led's for waterblock.
> 
> used Mayhem's Namron yellow dye
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Changed Coolant after reading that mayhems aurora is just for show, lol. my 1st watercooling mistake
> 
> here's the change / Mathem's yellow sunset pastel
Click to expand...

That Your gold Primo is







Great color scheme


----------



## owcraftsman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Faster_is_better*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *RAROCK*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *RAROCK*
> 
> So here's my updated rig after installing my water cooling
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> awaiting yellow led's for waterblock.
> 
> used Mayhem's Namron yellow dye
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Changed Coolant after reading that mayhems aurora is just for show, lol. my 1st watercooling mistake
> 
> here's the change / Mathem's yellow sunset pastel
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> That Your gold Primo is
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Great color scheme
Click to expand...

I agree 100% love that gold nice work


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Faster_is_better*
> 
> That Your gold Primo is
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Great color scheme


yeah I think I like the pastel better anyway... sets the gold off more...


----------



## RAROCK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> yeah I think I like the pastel better anyway... sets the gold off more...


I'm also glad I made the coolant mistake, this looks much better, but it did take about 3 hours to get the auroras coolant flushed from my system. Just the led light to do.


----------



## PureBlackFire

I opted for colored tubing rather than coolant.


----------



## Reaper28

Got my "cover my a$$" replacement clips for the top of my Luxe, $15 later. Quality seems decent


----------



## pshootr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Reaper28*
> 
> Got my "cover my a$$" replacement clips for the top of my Luxe, $15 later. Quality seems decent


Cool man, I need to send pictures to Phanteks so I can get my replacements. Mine are stripped. Then I will do the same and get back ups.


----------



## Pikaru

Error post


----------



## owcraftsman

Project Grey goes round the world as seen here at OCN an awesome build

As seen around the world and there are actually more places for it to be seen.

http://www.tweaktown.com/news/42820/project-grey-malik-customs-looks-something-future/index.html

http://www.ocaholic.ch/modules/news/article.php?storyid=11615

http://www.hwbox.gr/case-modding-news/39294-featured-build-project-grey.html

https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.1036406909709614.1073742522.151449674872013&type=1

https://www.facebook.com/MalikCustoms

On another good note Think Computers gives the Phanteks Enthoo Mini XL Case 10 of 10 Editors Choice #1


----------



## madmalkav

Anyone have a photo of a EK DCP 4.0 pump mounted on the Primo bracket? I'm uberdense right now and sure missunderstanding something.


----------



## pshootr

I just received the two meter RGB strip for the inside of my Luxe







But before I install it, I was wondering if there are any do's and dont's before I install it? Any advice or recommendations would be appreciated.


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pshootr*
> 
> I just received the two meter RGB strip for the inside of my Luxe
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But before I install it, I was wondering if there are any do's and dont's before I install it? Any advice or recommendations would be appreciated.


Get some tape because the strip has problems staying in place, or at least mine did so i taped it to the case to keep it in place.


----------



## pshootr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> Get some tape because the strip has problems staying in place, or at least mine did so i taped it to the case to keep it in place.


Thank you shilka. I am concered about that. I thought I would first put the strip inside the case to warm it up, and then clean the mounting locations with a cloth. Hopfuly this will due because I don't have any decent tape ATM hehe.

Normally adhesives will work well as long as the surface area is clean and the product is limber or flexible at the time of installation. But each situation is case by case I guess.

Edit: In other words, I hope this sheet sticks


----------



## emsj86

enthoo pro. Bought a phanteks pump bracket and mounted to fans


----------



## pshootr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> enthoo pro. Bought a phanteks pump bracket and mounted to fans


Looks nice, so jelly from your wire sleeving. Well, and the fact you have a loop. I have been on the air side for awhile now, but all the pics of loops are drawing me in to the dark side.


----------



## Freaxy

I finished my first water cooling build and I'm quite happy with the result.








The Phanteks Enthoo Primo is an amazing case for this. Fitted the Alphacool monsta 480 push/pull on the bottom and the UT60 push/pull on the top.
Only thing that I disliked was the reservoir bracket. The cutout for the cards in it was too short in height for the 2 cards/3 slots configuration, so I drilled two holes in the motherboard tray for the EK X3 250 reservoir. However 1 GTX 980 G1 with waterblock would fit with the bracket, or even if it's 2 cards in the first 2 PCI-e slots.

The aquaero is awesome too, I got the pumps pwm signal, flowmeter, temp sensor, top rad fans on one channel, bottom rad fans on another and the case fans on the last. Controlling fan speeds on water temp. Pump set on 50%of it's pwm range for a nice quiet computer. Alarms on the flowmeter.
Then the Farbwerk and LED strip to react on water temp.

The water blocks are EK Supremacy EVO and 2 x EK GTX980 WF3 + backplates.

Here's some pics (sorry for the quality, I have no camera other then my Nexus 5's)






The mess-o-cables


Had great fun building it, but damn sore hands


----------



## Trexxit

If budgeting goes as planned I'm looking at something like this : http://pcpartpicker.com/p/jhWz99
Painting all the mis match colors to go with a black and green color scheme
What your opinion guys? Notes
I3 is a stop place and will be replaced with a Xeon or i7
Board comes with waterblocks for when I decide to use them.
Any tips?


----------



## emsj86

Almost done thoughts? Enthoo pro (don't see many if any hardline pro cases which sounds weird but kinda like that about my build)


----------



## pshootr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> Get some tape because the strip has problems staying in place, or at least mine did so i taped it to the case to keep it in place.


Yup you were rite, 3M adhesive did not hold up. Gonna have to get some tape :/ What a joke.


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pshootr*
> 
> Yup you were rite, 3M adhesive did not hold up. Gonna have to get some tape :/ What a joke.


My old strip had the same problem so its not like it was a huge surprise for me.
Still annoying.


----------



## pshootr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> My old strip had the same problem so its not like it was a huge surprise for me.
> Still annoying.


Yes annoying indeed. I hate the idea of having tape inside my case, so I may try a few dabs of silicone. If the silicone sticks to the strip then hopefully I will be able to remove the tape after it drys.


----------



## emsj86

used phanteks pump bracket to mount to fans on bottom 240 rad fans worked out well. what do you think I can do different or change. I think a light in the pump top would help and maybe switch to mayhems x1


----------



## pshootr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> used phanteks pump bracket to mount to fans on bottom 240 rad fans worked out well. what do you think I can do different or change. I think a light in the pump top would help and maybe switch to mayhems x1


I think it looks great. I love the hard lines.


----------



## Trexxit

In the Enthoo pro,can I install a 140mm above the stock 200mm fan in the front?


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trexxit*
> 
> In the Enthoo pro,can I install a 140mm above the stock 200mm fan in the front?


no you cannot.


----------



## Trexxit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PureBlackFire*
> 
> no you cannot.


Thanks for the info!


----------



## shilka

You should just remove the 200mm its not all that good.


----------



## Trexxit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> You should just remove the 200mm its not all that good.


I was just wondering because I was thinking about a 120mm AIO but it would look like crap mounted int he back i think, because of the way the cpu block would sit


----------



## emsj86

I believe you can add a. 140 above the 20mm but you would have to lose the bays and mod it. Bill Owen showed how you can even put a 360 with some mods up front. Why not punt on the bottom a 140 fits even a 280 fits on the bottom


----------



## Trexxit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> I believe you can add a. 140 above the 20mm but you would have to lose the bays and mod it. Bill Owen showed how you can even put a 360 with some mods up front. Why not punt on the bottom a 140 fits even a 280 fits on the bottom


Dont know if the tubes will reach, will prolly end up putting it up top, another question for everyone who ownt he enthoo pro, i have a dvd drive, can I see the drive from the window?


----------



## emsj86

I just figured it was for a gpu if it's for cpu no reason not to put it up top or on the back. You can see the drive but you really have to **** your head to the side of the window to see


----------



## Trexxit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> I just figured it was for a gpu if it's for cpu no reason not to put it up top or on the back. You can see the drive but you really have to **** your head to the side of the window to see


so from head on or even slightly looking in that direction you cant? and I'll put it on the top if i get it, I just hate the way the tubes come out of it


----------



## owcraftsman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Freaxy*
> 
> I finished my first water cooling build and I'm quite happy with the result.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The Phanteks Enthoo Primo is an amazing case for this. Fitted the Alphacool monsta 480 push/pull on the bottom and the UT60 push/pull on the top.
> Only thing that I disliked was the reservoir bracket. The cutout for the cards in it was too short in height for the 2 cards/3 slots configuration, so I drilled two holes in the motherboard tray for the EK X3 250 reservoir. However 1 GTX 980 G1 with waterblock would fit with the bracket, or even if it's 2 cards in the first 2 PCI-e slots.
> 
> The aquaero is awesome too, I got the pumps pwm signal, flowmeter, temp sensor, top rad fans on one channel, bottom rad fans on another and the case fans on the last. Controlling fan speeds on water temp. Pump set on 50%of it's pwm range for a nice quiet computer. Alarms on the flowmeter.
> Then the Farbwerk and LED strip to react on water temp.
> 
> The water blocks are EK Supremacy EVO and 2 x EK GTX980 WF3 + backplates.
> 
> Here's some pics (sorry for the quality, I have no camera other then my Nexus 5's)
> 
> 
> Had great fun building it, but damn sore hands


Nice job man! Looks like you have a UV light in there what's your source? are those leds white? purple? UV? I didn't know they made them but googled and dayum they do


----------



## Freaxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *owcraftsman*
> 
> Nice job man! Looks like you have a UV light in there what's your source? are those leds white? purple? UV? I didn't know they made them but googled and dayum they do


Thanks








They are actually just RGB led strips ranging from blue to red on water temps.
Guess they were in the middle, so purple which makes them look like UV lights actually.


----------



## Trexxit

Just ordered a z87x-OC , will be painting it allong with my ram for a green/black color scheme.Grabbed a Seasonic m12-II 620w psu for 55$ from newegg, they shipped it to my old adress and wouldn't even attempt to change my address when i contacted them, lost my buisness







but I'm gonna have to retrieve the package somehow.. Anyways, I will be doing a build log as I slowly get components.


----------



## owcraftsman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Freaxy*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *owcraftsman*
> 
> Nice job man! Looks like you have a UV light in there what's your source? are those leds white? purple? UV? I didn't know they made them but googled and dayum they do
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> They are actually just RGB led strips ranging from blue to red on water temps.
> Guess they were in the middle, so purple which makes them look like UV lights actually.
Click to expand...

Ya it's lighting up your tubing just like a UV black light would... awesome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trexxit*
> 
> Just ordered a z87x-OC , will be painting it allong with my ram for a green/black color scheme.Grabbed a Seasonic m12-II 620w psu for 55$ from newegg, they shipped it to my old adress and wouldn't even attempt to change my address when i contacted them, lost my buisness
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> but I'm gonna have to retrieve the package somehow.. Anyways, I will be doing a build log as I slowly get components.


Let's hope the shipper gets your address right on the Z87X-OC  Sounds like a nice concept we want pics


----------



## Trexxit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *owcraftsman*
> 
> Ya it's lighting up your tubing just like a UV black light would... awesome
> 
> Let's hope the shipper gets your address right on the Z87X-OC
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sounds like a nice concept we want pics


haha








crude photoshopping but here is a general idea of what im going for using sata cables and paint, ram slots will be filled and first gpu slot should be covered except for top, still deciding on what to do with that. Should i paint the ends on the ram and pci-e slots green or black?
http://www.moddiy.com/products/Lamptron-PCI%252dE-x-16-Slot-Protective-Jack-Cover.html
Going to use these to cover the rest of the slots. may mod them to use the slots and the covers at the same time.
Not quite sure yet.Sadly I may have to use stock cooler for a while, I'm on a budget.
Also getting custom cables.


----------



## doyll

*Just a heads up guys.

Phanteks case thread has more posts for it's age than any other case thread!!*


----------



## WHIMington

l am planning a next revision to my Luxe build, EK is now selling the waterblock for my mobo(Gigabyte z97 SOC) I will switch my CPU block into EK as well, I am still waiting out for the display card market to see what better opinions is coming this year, but since I will also reconfigure the radiators and the loop, my question is can I squeeze a 420mm rads at the top of the Luxe? I am also undecided about the rear fan port, since if I can fit 420 on top I will indefinitely do away the rear 140 rad, with that in mind I will have to decide what to put on the rear port, 2 clear opinions appear, either I mount the Photon tube res at the rear to make room for longer GFX card, or I keep the Photon where it is and use SFX card while mount a 140/120 fan there, I would like to see other people opinion.

Mean while, I will be daydreaming about a mini XL dual system full custom watercooling loop


----------



## Sequincer

So I recently bought the Enthoo Primo with water cooling in mind and after doing some research, I have decided on the following parts for my build:

Radiator 1 (Bottom): Alphacool NexXxoS Monsta 480mm
Radiator 2 (Top): Alphacool NexXxoS XT45 Full Copper 420mm
Fans (8+6): Corshair SP120 PWM Quiet Edition
Fan Controller: Lamptron CW611
Fittings: 12 x Bitspower compression fittings (I haven't decided where I need 45 or 90 degree angle fittings yet)

I will be cooling two GTX 970s and a 4790k processor.

1. Should I replace the XT45 420mm with a 480mm UT60 in push/pull? I'm not sure if it would fit. My motherboard is the ASUS Maximus VII Hero.

2. What pump should I use that would fit at the back on the pump mount?

3. What reservoir would fit on the reservoir bracket without any issues? (I realize the GTX 970s are not long cards but I want to future proof the water cooling components)

4. What type of drainage valve would attach to a 90 degree fitting underneath the Monsta without any clearance issues?

5. Could I use the included fan hub to connect all the fans on one radiator to a single fan header on the fan controller instead of the motherboard? I realize I would need two fan hubs for both radiators in this case (I know the CW11 fan controller allows up to 36 watts per channel)

My goal for this build is great cooling performance and *silence*. I plan to run the fans at 500rpm. Any and all suggestions are welcome.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sequincer*
> 
> So I recently bought the Enthoo Primo with water cooling in mind and after doing some research, I have decided on the following parts for my build:
> 
> Radiator 1 (Bottom): Alphacool NexXxoS Monsta 480mm
> Radiator 2 (Top): Alphacool NexXxoS XT45 Full Copper 420mm
> Fans (8+6): Corshair SP120 PWM Quiet Edition
> Fan Controller: Lamptron CW611
> Fittings: 12 x Bitspower compression fittings (I haven't decided where I need 45 or 90 degree angle fittings yet)
> 
> I will be cooling two GTX 970s and a 4790k processor.
> 
> 1. Should I replace the XT45 420mm with a 480mm UT60 in push/pull? I'm not sure if it would fit. My motherboard is the ASUS Maximus VII Hero.
> 
> 2. What pump should I use that would fit at the back on the pump mount?
> 
> 3. What reservoir would fit on the reservoir bracket without any issues? (I realize the GTX 970s are not long cards but I want to future proof the water cooling components)
> 
> 4. What type of drainage valve would attach to a 90 degree fitting underneath the Monsta without any clearance issues?
> 
> 5. Could I use the included fan hub to connect all the fans on one radiator to a single fan header on the fan controller instead of the motherboard? I realize I would need two fan hubs for both radiators in this case (I know the CW11 fan controller allows up to 36 watts per channel)
> 
> My goal for this build is great cooling performance and *silence*. I plan to run the fans at 500rpm. Any and all suggestions are welcome.


1. The 480 UT60 will fit in push/pull, just by a hair. Performance between the two in that setup will be pretty negligible. If I could make a suggestion to go to a 280mm UT60 on the bottom, it fits like a glove and looks perfect there. It also opens up some working room that will make your life a bit simpler during the setup.

2. D5 and DDC both fit without a problem. There is really a good amount of room back there.

3. I haven't done 970s in the case, but I would think even a Photon would fit given the shorter length of the card.

4. You can run off the side port of the rad with a simple tube into the drive bay area.

5. The fan hub requires a PWM signal for speed control, which the CW611 does not have. The hub will not function with a VR fan controller.

6. You might want to rethink that fan choice......

Hope that helps.


----------



## Freaxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sequincer*
> 
> So I recently bought the Enthoo Primo with water cooling in mind and after doing some research, I have decided on the following parts for my build:
> 
> Radiator 1 (Bottom): Alphacool NexXxoS Monsta 480mm
> Radiator 2 (Top): Alphacool NexXxoS XT45 Full Copper 420mm
> Fans (8+6): Corshair SP120 PWM Quiet Edition
> Fan Controller: Lamptron CW611
> Fittings: 12 x Bitspower compression fittings (I haven't decided where I need 45 or 90 degree angle fittings yet)
> 
> I will be cooling two GTX 970s and a 4790k processor.
> 
> 1. Should I replace the XT45 420mm with a 480mm UT60 in push/pull? I'm not sure if it would fit. My motherboard is the ASUS Maximus VII Hero.
> 
> 2. What pump should I use that would fit at the back on the pump mount?
> 
> 3. What reservoir would fit on the reservoir bracket without any issues? (I realize the GTX 970s are not long cards but I want to future proof the water cooling components)
> 
> 4. What type of drainage valve would attach to a 90 degree fitting underneath the Monsta without any clearance issues?
> 
> 5. Could I use the included fan hub to connect all the fans on one radiator to a single fan header on the fan controller instead of the motherboard? I realize I would need two fan hubs for both radiators in this case (I know the CW11 fan controller allows up to 36 watts per channel)
> 
> My goal for this build is great cooling performance and *silence*. I plan to run the fans at 500rpm. Any and all suggestions are welcome.


I just finished my build with the same case and same motherboard:
1. Monsta in the bottom UT60 480 in the top with maximus VII hero fits easily!

2. D5 pumps fit on the pump bracket. Personally I used a DDC (mcp35x) with heatsink and just let it rest on feets.

3. My bottom GTX 980 G1 just didn't fit with the bracket in the 3rd PCI-e slot because the bracket cutout was too short.. Do remember that the GTX 980 G1's are a bit longer then normal 980's and 970 are even shorter. I can't tell you 100% if it fits with 2 cards. You gotta measure it.
In the FAQ on http://www.phanteks.com/enthoo-primo.html are measurements.

4. No idea, I made a T split with a drain port. I'm at work now so I can't measure it at the moment.

5. If the fan controller uses PWM as output it should be no porblem, but I'm not 100% sure on this one as I used other fan hubs.

I can recommend you the monsta/ut60 build if you go for silence! I use the performance PWM SP120's and can even turn them down to nearly inaudible (my pump makes more noise at 50% speed) and still get around 40'ish degrees C while gaming.

*EDIT:
changed point 1 since I read UT45 480mm in stead of 420. I'm not sure about a 420mm rad.*


----------



## Sequincer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> 1. The 480 UT60 will fit in push/pull, just by a hair. Performance between the two in that setup will be pretty negligible. If I could make a suggestion to go to a 280mm UT60 on the bottom, it fits like a glove and looks perfect there. It also opens up some working room that will make your life a bit simpler during the setup.
> 
> 2. D5 and DDC both fit without a problem. There is really a good amount of room back there.
> 
> 3. I haven't done 970s in the case, but I would think even a Photon would fit given the shorter length of the card.
> 
> 4. You can run off the side port of the rad with a simple tube into the drive bay area.
> 
> 5. The fan hub requires a PWM signal for speed control, which the CW611 does not have. The hub will not function with a VR fan controller.
> 
> 6. You might want to rethink that fan choice......
> 
> Hope that helps.


Thanks for the suggestions. I'm hesitant to put a photon as I know I will change my graphic cards before I change my mobo/CPU so I don't want any conflicts in the future. I know I need to drill holes to mount the photon to the reservoir bracket and while that isn't an issue, I'd rather just go for a reservoir that is compatible with the default reservoir bracket and doesn't conflict with longer cards in the future.

What fans would you rather recommend? Remember I am going for low RPM so I don't think it matters too much when you are running them at 500-800RPM.

Speaking of fans, I've done quite a bit of reading and cannot understand how people are connecting all the fans of one rad to a single fan header. Does anyone know how I may do this without the use of 5 splitter cables for each rad?

While I agree that for my setup a 280mm will be adequate, I really want to buy my rads for any setup I run in the future and be done with it. So while it is overkill currently, it may not be in the future.


----------



## Freaxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sequincer*
> 
> Speaking of fans, I've done quite a bit of reading and cannot understand how people are connecting all the fans of one rad to a single fan header. Does anyone know how I may do this without the use of 5 splitter cables for each rad?


I used these: http://www.highflow.nl/fans/fans-ventilator-toebehoren/modmytoys-4-pin-pwm-power-distribution-pcb-8x-way-block-mmt-pcb-8p-44p.html
It's basicly a 8 way splitter


----------



## Sequincer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Freaxy*
> 
> I used these: http://www.highflow.nl/fans/fans-ventilator-toebehoren/modmytoys-4-pin-pwm-power-distribution-pcb-8x-way-block-mmt-pcb-8p-44p.html
> It's basicly a 8 way splitter


Thank you. I live in Canada and thankfully Aquatuning has that very part in stock. I will be sure to order 2 of those with all the other parts.

Out of curiosity what are your temps like at low RPM? I just want to make sure I have enough surface area to run my build quietly and your build is almost exactly what I had in mind









*-- EDIT --*
Alright, I think I am going to go with the XT45 420mm as the difference in heat dissipation at 1000rpm is 1 watt. There was an excel sheet with the watt dissipation of Alphacool radiators posted a long time ago that I'll post for reference here:
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> If anyone finds it useful, the attached speadsheet gives estimated data for select Alphacool rads that might be considered for the Enthoo case. lotta assumptions in making the estimate as were described above.
> 
> Aquacool Estimator.XLS 28k .XLS file


AND with the 420 you can access the top two rad ports for bleeding and filling as shown here:
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> Tho since ya got me thinking.... I might just slide foreward and forget about drilling. It will cost me top drive bay which justy means dropping the Reeven


----------



## Freaxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sequincer*
> 
> Thank you. I live in Canada and thankfully Aquatuning has that very part in stock. I will be sure to order 2 of those with all the other parts.
> 
> Out of curiosity what are your temps like at low RPM? I just want to make sure I have enough surface area to run my build quietly and your build is almost exactly what I had in mind
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *-- EDIT --*
> Alright, I think I am going to go with the XT45 420mm as the difference in heat dissipation at 1000rpm is 1 watt. There was an excel sheet with the watt dissipation of Alphacool radiators posted a long time ago that I'll post for reference here:
> AND with the 420 you can access the top two rad ports for bleeding and filling as shown here:


Not sure what RPM they were running, since those fan hubs send the RPM signal from all fans to the controller which ends up in fluctuating RPM showing. But gaming with 40% speed on fans (which is probably around 900 RPM) gives me around 40-45 degrees on both GTX 980 G1's (overclocked +113MHz core and +400MHz on memory with 1.25v on both) and the same on the I7 4790K (at stock atm).
And with 40% fan speeds the noise isn't really bad, the pump is louder. Also I could probably let them run at 10% and still get good temps.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sequincer*
> 
> What fans would you rather recommend? Remember I am going for low RPM so I don't think it matters too much when you are running them at 500-800RPM.
> 
> Speaking of fans, I've done quite a bit of reading and cannot understand how people are connecting all the fans of one rad to a single fan header. Does anyone know how I may do this without the use of 5 splitter cables for each rad?
> 
> While I agree that for my setup a 280mm will be adequate, I really want to buy my rads for any setup I run in the future and be done with it. So while it is overkill currently, it may not be in the future.


You are attempting to run PWM fans off of voltage control, that alone puts a serious hitch in your plan. Start up speeds using voltage are going to be far higher than using PWM - especially given that you have chosen a fan with a 7V startup.. You need voltage regulated fans with low start up speeds. Plus, you are spending all of this money on top quality components and throwing in middling fans because you say the fans don't matter (which they do), it doesn't make much sense.

On your fan control question, the Phanteks hub can control up to eleven fans off one PWM signal. I have one with six fans to one rad, and one with four fans to another, each running off a different fan curve from two MB headers and not using a single splitter.


----------



## emsj86




----------



## Sequincer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> You are attempting to run PWM fans off of voltage control, that alone puts a serious hitch in your plan. Start up speeds using voltage are going to be far higher than using PWM - especially given that you have chosen a fan with a 7V startup.. You need voltage regulated fans with low start up speeds. Plus, you are spending all of this money on top quality components and throwing in middling fans because you say the fans don't matter (which they do), it doesn't make much sense.
> 
> On your fan control question, the Phanteks hub can control up to eleven fans off one PWM signal. I have one with six fans to one rad, and one with four fans to another, each running off a different fan curve from two MB headers and not using a single splitter.


I'm all ears for better fans but my choices in Canada are quite limited to be honest. If any of you know of better high static voltage regulated fans with low start up speeds then please let me know.


----------



## Freaxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> You are attempting to run PWM fans off of voltage control, that alone puts a serious hitch in your plan. Start up speeds using voltage are going to be far higher than using PWM - especially given that you have chosen a fan with a 7V startup.. You need voltage regulated fans with low start up speeds. Plus, you are spending all of this money on top quality components and throwing in middling fans because you say the fans don't matter (which they do), it doesn't make much sense.
> 
> On your fan control question, the Phanteks hub can control up to eleven fans off one PWM signal. I have one with six fans to one rad, and one with four fans to another, each running off a different fan curve from two MB headers and not using a single splitter.


I think he means it doesn't matter which fans you get noise wise.
I do agree on the PWM part though. I'm not sure what his budget is but all I can say is that I'd recommend the Aquaero for controlling fans on temps. It can control both PWM and voltage regulated.


----------



## Sequincer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Freaxy*
> 
> I think he means it doesn't matter which fans you get noise wise.
> I do agree on the PWM part though. I'm not sure what his budget is but all I can say is that I'd recommend the Aquaero for controlling fans on temps. It can control both PWM and voltage regulated.


Hmmm, my goal is just to control each of the radiator fans separately and spending $200 for that functionality seems pretty expensive to me. I could just buy another Phankets hub and stick it on CPU_OPT and be done with it, but then the entire system is being controlled at one fan speed. So when the PC is on idle, I can't really turn the fans on one radiator off for example. There should be a more cost-effective way to do this, but I can't think of one.


----------



## emsj86

I hope that phanteka comes out with a 300 or less side mounted radiator case like the 900d or case lab cases I really like them


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sequincer*
> 
> Hmmm, my goal is just to control each of the radiator fans separately and spending $200 for that functionality seems pretty expensive to me. I could just buy another Phankets hub and stick it on CPU_OPT and be done with it, but then the entire system is being controlled at one fan speed. So when the PC is on idle, I can't really turn the fans on one radiator off for example. There should be a more cost-effective way to do this, but I can't think of one.


What MB are you using? This is a huge question, many people I see with fan controllers are not taking advantage of what their MB can offer and as a result actually cutting down the functionality by adding a piece. Most of the ASUS Z97 and X99 boards have multiple PWM headers that can be individually controlled. The CPU and CPU_OPT are tied together, but the others are individual. I'm using a Z97 Sabertooth right now, and have two very good fan controllers sitting in the closet because the MB can do far more without them.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Freaxy*
> 
> I think he means it doesn't matter which fans you get noise wise.
> I do agree on the PWM part though. I'm not sure what his budget is but all I can say is that I'd recommend the Aquaero for controlling fans on temps. It can control both PWM and voltage regulated.


The Aquaero is a beautiful piece, I almost broke down and bought one...and would if I could justify the cost to myself. Why is it so hard to find a PWM fan controller? You would think they would be fairly common by now.


----------



## Sequincer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> What MB are you using? This is a huge question, many people I see with fan controllers are not taking advantage of what their MB can offer and as a result actually cutting down the functionality by adding a piece. Most of the ASUS Z97 and X99 boards have multiple PWM headers that can be individually controlled. The CPU and CPU_OPT are tied together, but the others are individual. I'm using a Z97 Sabertooth right now, and have two very good fan controllers sitting in the closet because the MB can do far more without them.
> The Aquaero is a beautiful piece, I almost broke down and bought one...and would if I could justify the cost to myself. Why is it so hard to find a PWM fan controller? You would think they would be fairly common by now.


I am using a Maximus VII Hero and unless I am mistaken, it is only able to use PWM on the CPU header.

*-- EDIT --*
So I went and checked the manual and apparently all 4 chasis fan headers are indeed PWM and I have the option to choose between DC and PWM within the bios too. But I have heard so many mixed reports that I have no clue if this is indeed the truth or if this is just false marketing as ASUS did with their previous boards. I hope it is true; saves a TON of money if it is.

*-- EDIT 2 --*
So after doing a bit of research it seems that all of ASUS' ROG 87 boards did *NOT* have true PWM on their chassis fan headers despite being 4 pin. However, ASUS has remedied this on most of their Z97 and X99 boards and all 4 chassis fan headers have true PWM capability with the ability to create a fan curve in the bios itself. This is great! Saves me $250 for a fan controller. All I need is a second Phanteks hub now.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sequincer*
> 
> I am using a Maximus VII Hero and unless I am mistaken, it is only able to use PWM on the CPU header.
> 
> *-- EDIT --*
> So I went and checked the manual and apparently all 4 chasis fan headers are indeed PWM and I have the option to choose between DC and PWM within the bios too. But I have heard so many mixed reports that I have no clue if this is indeed the truth or if this is just false marketing as ASUS did with their previous boards. I hope it is true; saves a TON of money if it is.
> 
> *-- EDIT 2 --*
> So after doing a bit of research it seems that all of ASUS' ROG 87 boards did *NOT* have true PWM on their chassis fan headers despite being 4 pin. However, ASUS has remedied this on most of their Z97 and X99 boards and all 4 chassis fan headers have true PWM capability with the ability to create a fan curve in the bios itself. This is great! Saves me $250 for a fan controller. All I need is a second Phanteks hub now.


Yes, that board will use actual PWM on all of the headers. Fan XPert 2 will allow you to do some great things.


----------



## Sequincer

Now that the whole fan issue is sorted, could any of you recommend a good but *silent* pump? I know the D5 Vario is silent but people have reported a lot of flow issues with that pump. I want something that is not audible when fans are at 500-800rpm.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sequincer*
> 
> Now that the whole fan issue is sorted, could any of you recommend a good but *silent* pump? I know the D5 Vario is silent but people have reported a lot of flow issues with that pump. I want something that is not audible when fans are at 500-800rpm.


what sort of flow problems you refer to?


----------



## madmalkav

I'm just assembling a Primo with EK DCP 4.0 pump and the pump is inaudible when the system is running, even the fans at their lower speed sounds stronger. I have the pump mounted over one o f those shoggy sandwich thingies.


----------



## madmalkav

Hey guys, I'm using the PWM hub without problems with 10 fans currently, but I plan to add 6 more. Will it hold? If not, is there any of those power modules in the aquaero style I can connect? I would really like to have all the radiators fans controlled by the hub.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *madmalkav*
> 
> Hey guys, I'm using the PWM hub without problems with 10 fans currently, but I plan to add 6 more. Will it hold? If not, is there any of those power modules in the aquaero style I can connect? I would really like to have all the radiators fans controlled by the hub.


You will need to purchase a second hub. They are available from Phanteks.


----------



## madmalkav

That's unfortunate. I only have two PWM headers on the MB, one is used for the PWM hub and another for the pump, doesn't have an aditional free PWM header.


----------



## Jeemil89

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *madmalkav*
> 
> I'm just assembling a Primo with EK DCP 4.0 pump and the pump is inaudible when the system is running, even the fans at their lower speed sounds stronger. I have the pump mounted over one o f those shoggy sandwich thingies.


I have also have the DCP 4.0 and mine is very loud. It's the loudest component in my system. Sorry I can't recommend it. It also vibrates a lot even when decoupled from the case. I have it voltage controlled to run slower but it is still loud. It's cheap and does it's job as a pump, but it's loud. The most silent pump is the D5 or a controlled DDC.


----------



## madmalkav

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeemil89*
> 
> I have also have the DCP 4.0 and mine is very loud. It's the loudest component in my system. Sorry I can't recommend it. It also vibrates a lot even when decoupled from the case. I have it voltage controlled to run slower but it is still loud. It's cheap and does it's job as a pump, but it's loud. The most silent pump is the D5 or a controlled DDC.


Weird, mine is not loud at all.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *madmalkav*
> 
> Weird, mine is not loud at all.


There are many factors affecting noise. The most important is decoupling. But you have to consider that each one perception of noise is subjective so is no surprise you think is not loud while others do think the opposite. Here are good tests on these pumps:


----------



## madmalkav

One more question guys: can I connect two phanteks pwm hubs with a pwm y cable or any other way to connect the two hubs to a single PWM port from the motherboard?


----------



## VulgarDisplay88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *madmalkav*
> 
> One more question guys: can I connect two phanteks pwm hubs with a pwm y cable or any other way to connect the two hubs to a single PWM port from the motherboard?


Good question. I haven't tried it but I imagine it'd work. I assume the 4 pin just sends the hub the signal and the sata provides the power so splitting it shouldn't be a problem. Maybe someone else has done it that can chime in.


----------



## madmalkav

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VulgarDisplay88*
> 
> Good question. I haven't tried it but I imagine it'd work. I assume the 4 pin just sends the hub the signal and the sata provides the power so splitting it shouldn't be a problem. Maybe someone else has done it that can chime in.


I assume that only one of the two devices connected to the PWM header should send information back to the motherboard, and I also assume that it should be no problem to do that, but will prefer to hear from someone more knowledgeable before spending the money.


----------



## Sequincer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> what sort of flow problems you refer to?


I heard there were flow problems when you have multiple blocks in your loop. I would like to get a D5 vario pump but my options are limited and I'm not an expert by any means.

I was looking at https://www.dazmode.com/store/product/dazmode_storm_d5_vario_8-24v_pump/

But I am not sure how I would attach compression fittings to that. My guess is I would need a pump top?

I could also get any of the pumps listed here:

http://www.aquatuning.us/water-cooling/pumps/d5-series/d5-pre-installed/

I just want something silent enough that I won't hear them above fans running at 500 RPM. And I'm relying on you guys who have experience with pumps to let me know what to pick.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sequincer*
> 
> I heard there were flow problems when you have multiple blocks in your loop. I would like to get a D5 vario pump but my options are limited and I'm not an expert by any means.
> 
> I was looking at https://www.dazmode.com/store/product/dazmode_storm_d5_vario_8-24v_pump/
> 
> But I am not sure how I would attach compression fittings to that. My guess is I would need a pump top?
> 
> I could also get any of the pumps listed here:
> 
> http://www.aquatuning.us/water-cooling/pumps/d5-series/d5-pre-installed/
> 
> I just want something silent enough that I won't hear them above fans running at 500 RPM. And I'm relying on you guys who have experience with pumps to let me know what to pick.


A d5 vario can handle almost anything you throw at it. D5 are the most reliable and silent pumps out there. The thing you refer to is not a problem but a difference in ddc x d5 "behavior". ddc have an edge in situations where the loop is highly restricted due to having a higher head pressure close to zero flow that the d5. However, ddc are not as reliable as the D5 particularly due to heat and usually produce more noise that a D5. How many blocks are you using? 1 cpu and 3 VGA blocks? 2 vga blocks? No problem. go with a d5. And if you find the flow is too low in your particular loop you can always go parallel on the vga blocks.

in regard to dazmode options those stock pump tops for the d5 have 1/2 barbs. If you are planning a different size of tubing/fittings then an ek top is a very solid option.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> A d5 vario can handle almost anything you throw at it. D5 are the most reliable and silent pumps out there. The thing you refer to is not a problem but a difference in ddc x d5 "behavior". ddc have an edge in situations where the loop is highly restricted due to having a higher head pressure close to zero flow that the d5. However, ddc are not as reliable as the D5 particularly due to heat and usually produce more noise that a D5. How many blocks are you using? 1 cpu and 3 VGA blocks? 2 vga blocks? No problem. go with a d5. And if you find the flow is too low in your particular loop you can always go parallel on the vga blocks.
> 
> in regard to dazmode options those stock pump tops for the d5 have 1/2 barbs. If you are planning a different size of tubing/fittings then an ek top is a very solid option.


I agree with absolutely everything you say here 100%...except the "usually" in terms of noise. In my experience DDCs are always noticeably louder than D5s, and have some definite quirks in terms of speed and restriction to prevent heat issues.

Personally, I run a PWM D5 with an EK top and couldn't be happier. I have used the XSPC top with good results in the past, also.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *madmalkav*
> 
> I assume that only one of the two devices connected to the PWM header should send information back to the motherboard, and I also assume that it should be no problem to do that, but will prefer to hear from someone more knowledgeable before spending the money.


That is correct. If you look at PWM splitters, one of the fan plugs is missing the speed sensor lead and will have only three wires.

I seem to recall reading in some Phanteks lit that two hubs on a header was the recommended max - I can't find it at the moment....and could be mistaken entirely.....but it's a nagging feeling that I have seen that.


----------



## MrGrievous

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *madmalkav*
> 
> Hey guys, I'm using the PWM hub without problems with 10 fans currently, but I plan to add 6 more. Will it hold? If not, is there any of those power modules in the aquaero style I can connect? I would really like to have all the radiators fans controlled by the hub.


That could possibly work depending on how many amps the fans draw. In my case I actually have 3 way fan splitters connected to my fan hub Just don't go over 30 watts as that's the max the hub can handle. For me I'm using phanteks fans fans which draw .2 amps so I can have 12.5 fans total on that one hub but of course you cant have 1/2 a fan.


----------



## Sequincer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> A d5 vario can handle almost anything you throw at it. D5 are the most reliable and silent pumps out there. The thing you refer to is not a problem but a difference in ddc x d5 "behavior". ddc have an edge in situations where the loop is highly restricted due to having a higher head pressure close to zero flow that the d5. However, ddc are not as reliable as the D5 particularly due to heat and usually produce more noise that a D5. How many blocks are you using? 1 cpu and 3 VGA blocks? 2 vga blocks? No problem. go with a d5. And if you find the flow is too low in your particular loop you can always go parallel on the vga blocks.
> 
> in regard to dazmode options those stock pump tops for the d5 have 1/2 barbs. If you are planning a different size of tubing/fittings then an ek top is a very solid option.


Thank you, that was very informative. I think I'll buy the Alphacool VPP655 PWM as I can't find a suitable top on dazmode for the D5 Vario. Could I control the pwm pump using the asus mobo fan xpert suite? Or would pwm not benefit me at all in this case as I am *NOT* buying a fan controller.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sequincer*
> 
> Thank you, that was very informative. I think I'll buy the Alphacool VPP655 PWM as I can't find a suitable top on dazmode for the D5 Vario. Could I control the pwm pump using the asus mobo fan xpert suite? Or would pwm not benefit me at all in this case as I am *NOT* buying a fan controller.


Actually there is simply no fan controller that I am aware of capable of handling the d5 pwm. The MB cpu fan header would likely be able to handle it just fine since most MB headers have a pull up on it (at least all Asus boards I tested so far: x58, x79, x99 and z77). PWM implementation on the D5 is not intel standard. There are very few true PWM fan controllers out there anyway. The aquaero is the best but lack the pull up necessary to handle the D5 pwm. There is a simple mod to it described in the Aquaero thread but honestly: stick to the cpu fan header and you would be just fine. The vario would do the job too but some find inconvenient to have to bend over to reach the small red knob on the back of the pump to change rpm. Notice that the PWM ddc and the 50x from Swiftech does not suffer from this since the PWM implementation in those is to intel specs.










edit- you will find wonderful resources and info here: http://martinsliquidlab.org/2012/12/25/swiftech-mcp-655-pwm-drive-pump-review/


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Gabrielzm is exactly right about the PWM D5 not following intel's PWM spec.

Unfortunately it's not limited to just PWM fan controllers that have issues trying to control the PWM D5 pump. Not all motherboards have an internal pullup circuit that allows the PWM D5 to work with them, nor really should any mobo have to seeing as it is beyond PWM spec. Most motherboards do, but not all. Darlene (IT Diva), in trying to help people get their issues with the PWM D5, has ran into some instances where the mobo didn't. She's discussed the issues with the pump many times, and has come up with a fairly simple mod that can be done to correct it. For example:
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> The PWM D5 doesn't work with the Aquaero 6 (A6) because the A6 follows the Intel PWM standard exactly, while the D5 has a non standard implementation as a design choice so that it can run at 60% speed with no PWM connection, as opposed to 100% speed like everything else that's PWM that follows the standard does.
> 
> Some mobos follow the standard exactly, and the PWM D5 doesn't work with those either.
> 
> Most mobos, it seems, have a slightly non-standard implementation that allows the D5 to work with them acceptably on the CPU header(s).
> 
> While most fans have a wide range of PWM duty cycle control . . . from about 25% to 100% PWM for min rpm to max rpm, the D5 has a narrower range from about 20% to 70% for min rpm to max rpm.
> 
> Sometimes what you use to control the PWM range from the mobo doesn't fit well with the 20% to 70% range, . . so that's something else to watch for and to be aware of once you get it hooked up.
> 
> If you find the D5 doesn't work with your mobo, other than the the control range isn't well suited, the little mod at the connector will fix it so it works with either the A6 or the mobo. . . . of course if it works with the A6, there's no reason to run it off the mobo.
> 
> Darlene


----------



## GOLDDUBBY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *madmalkav*
> 
> I'm just assembling a Primo with EK DCP 4.0 pump and the pump is inaudible when the system is running, even the fans at their lower speed sounds stronger. I have the pump mounted over one o f those shoggy sandwich thingies.


Ekwb are a bit inconsistent with the quality of their products. I have two 4.0 pumps that rattle and shake all over the place, and one that is dead silent does its job and sits where I put it.

Luck of draw I guess.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

FWIW, EK doesn't make pumps. They relabel them. The EK-DCP 4.0 is a relabeled Jingway DP-1200.


----------



## Gil80

Hi guys,

I'm just reading this thread and I feel a bit uncomfortable with my recent purchase of water cooling gear.
I'm building my first ever custom water cooling and my pump choices were limited. I
decided to go for a PWM D5 pump.
Reading this post makes me feel as if I made a mistake, since I bought the Alphacool D5 PWM pump and I'm using Asus P8Z77-V-Deluxe motherboard.

Does this mean that I won't be able to utilise 100% of the pump? Does this mean that I have wasted my money on this pump?









My current water build includes only one rad but I will add a couple more.


----------



## madmalkav

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gil80*
> 
> Hi guys,
> 
> I'm just reading this thread and I feel a bit uncomfortable with my recent purchase of water cooling gear.
> I'm building my first ever custom water cooling and my pump choices were limited. I
> decided to go for a PWM D5 pump.
> Reading this post makes me feel as if I made a mistake, since I bought the Alphacool D5 PWM pump and I'm using Asus P8Z77-V-Deluxe motherboard.
> 
> Does this mean that I won't be able to utilise 100% of the pump? Does this mean that I have wasted my money on this pump?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My current water build includes only one rad but I will add a couple more.


You shouldn't have problems, and if you have, they have already sovled as you can see some posts earlier.

Going back to the PWM hub stuff, I start to think it deserves its own thread, as it is a complex matter and it is available also separately. I have found some info -dunno if it is ok to link to other forums- of it burning MOSFET if you set the min PWM too low. Any info on this? I have contacted Phanteks through their web form but still haven't received a reply.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gil80*
> 
> Hi guys,
> 
> I'm just reading this thread and I feel a bit uncomfortable with my recent purchase of water cooling gear.
> I'm building my first ever custom water cooling and my pump choices were limited. I
> decided to go for a PWM D5 pump.
> Reading this post makes me feel as if I made a mistake, since I bought the Alphacool D5 PWM pump and I'm using Asus P8Z77-V-Deluxe motherboard.
> 
> Does this mean that I won't be able to utilise 100% of the pump? Does this mean that I have wasted my money on this pump?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My current water build includes only one rad but I will add a couple more.


The D5 PWM works perfectly on the Z77 Deluxe, no worries there. I ran that setup for short time.


----------



## Ionize

Hey everyone,
I have the Enthoo Pro and currently just have the fans that were included with the case (140mm back exhaust, 200mm front intake.)
I'm looking for a bit more airflow and was thinking about buying 2 AF120s (120mm fans.) I have no radiators or anything like that.
Anyway, if I were to buy either 1 or 2 AF120s, what would be the best airflow setup to use?


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ionize*
> 
> Hey everyone,
> I have the Enthoo Pro and currently just have the fans that were included with the case (140mm back exhaust, 200mm front intake.)
> I'm looking for a bit more airflow and was thinking about buying 2 AF120s (120mm fans.) I have no radiators or anything like that.
> Anyway, if I were to buy either 1 or 2 AF120s, what would be the best airflow setup to use?


You would be far better served replacing the front 200mm with a pair of good 140mm fans. The Phanteks 140SP (same as your exhaust fan) are excellent fans without spending much. They will move significantly more air than the AF120s and happen to be pretty quiet. If you have no problem spending a little more, Noctua NF-S12A FLX or NF-S12B Redux are excellent choices, as are be quiet! Shadow Wings 2.


----------



## Ionize

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> You would be far better served replacing the front 200mm with a pair of good 140mm fans. The Phanteks 140SP (same as your exhaust fan) are excellent fans without spending much. They will move significantly more air than the AF120s and happen to be pretty quiet. If you have no problem spending a little more, Noctua NF-S12A FLX or NF-S12B Redux are excellent choices, as are be quiet! Shadow Wings 2.


Great, thanks! I'll look around at all the fans you suggested. If anyone else has other opinions meanwhile, feel free to chip in.

Edit: Ok, Do you mean the NF-A14 FLX? S12As are 120mm. Also, Shadow Wings, or Silent Wings 2?


----------



## maskymus

*Ionize,*
If you really want best of the best in the market now, those are Noctua NF-A14 (choose the model based on your needs) and be quiet! Silent Wings 2.
Noctua has better airflow and is slightly louder on high rpm. Shadow Wings are out of this category, as it uses different mechanism. I've heard also positive feedback on new Aerocool DS series.


----------



## Ionize

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *maskymus*
> 
> *Ionize,*
> If you really want best of the best in the market now, those are Noctua NF-A14 (choose the model based on your needs) and be quiet! Silent Wings 2.
> Noctua has better airflow and is slightly louder on high rpm. Shadow Wings are out of this category, as it uses different mechanism. I've heard also positive feedback on new Aerocool DS series.


I prefer the look of the Silent Wings 2, so I'll probably go with them. Is replacing the 200mm with 2 140mms definitely the best way to go with that?


----------



## shilka

I use Noctua NF-A14 FLX fans in my Luxe first thing i did was throw away that crappy front 200mm fan.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ionize*
> 
> Is replacing the 200mm with 2 140mms definitely the best way to go with that?


Yes the front 200mm fan is pretty much useless.


----------



## emsj86

I do t mind the front 200mm fan maybe it's just mine but I don't hear it


----------



## Mark011

subbed! I'm working on a liquid cooled white enthoo primo build, check it at

http://www.overclock.net/t/1535117/project-prime-enthoo-primo-white-ed

thanks!


----------



## doyll

I was looking at the Enthoo Mini XL with accessory ITX back and got to thinking.
What if Phanteks made tan Enthoo Mini XL ATX out of it?


Was wondering what you all think of it.


----------



## emsj86

I thought it was going to be atx and was all set to switch over to one. Sucks it's not feel like he mass of pc users have atx for the most part. Should have an upgrade kit or a different version as I love this case but do t have the mobo for it


----------



## Sequincer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Freaxy*
> 
> Not sure what RPM they were running, since those fan hubs send the RPM signal from all fans to the controller which ends up in fluctuating RPM showing. But gaming with 40% speed on fans (which is probably around 900 RPM) gives me around 40-45 degrees on both GTX 980 G1's (overclocked +113MHz core and +400MHz on memory with 1.25v on both) and the same on the I7 4790K (at stock atm).
> And with 40% fan speeds the noise isn't really bad, the pump is louder. Also I could probably let them run at 10% and still get good temps.


Freaxy, could I kindly know if you used any 90 or 45 degree fittings in your build? I figure this information would be greatly helpful since I would know where I'd need such fittings as our builds are extremely similar.


----------



## Freaxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sequincer*
> 
> Freaxy, could I kindly know if you used any 90 or 45 degree fittings in your build? I figure this information would be greatly helpful since I would know where I'd need such fittings as our builds are extremely similar.


I only used 45 degrees fittings on the CPU block and 90 degrees fittings on my res. The rest is all straight fittings.
Best way to judge beforehand is visualize your build.
Pics are here: http://www.overclock.net/t/1418637/official-case-phanteks-club-enthoo-primo-enthoo-luxe-enthoo-pro-lovers-owners/7810#post_23421105


----------



## sugalumps

Well my white pro came today to replace the beaten up black luxe, it looks incredible I actualy prefer the white pro to the black luxe though I am partial to white cases.

But once again they failed to secure the tool box in place and it has scratched the window, two psu feets had also fallen off but at £78 I dont care as much and will just keep it as I cba waiting 2 weeks again. Phanteks really need to find someother way to secure the toolbox, either under the psu seperator or in the box in its own seperate foam.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sugalumps*
> 
> Well my white pro came today to replace the beaten up black luxe, it looks incredible I actualy prefer the white pro to the black luxe though I am partial to white cases.
> 
> But once again they failed to secure the tool box in place and it has scratched the window, two psu feets had also fallen off but at £78 I dont care as much and will just keep it as I cba waiting 2 weeks again. Phanteks really need to find someother way to secure the toolbox, either under the psu seperator or in the box in its own seperate foam.


mine came wire tied to the drive bays...it.wasnt loose so the scratches I have on the window aren't from that I'm thinking this happens in moving the side panels down a line or something...anyway it seems under the psu cover would be the easiest choice and they could wire tie it there too...but I'm going to assume it takes a lot less time to wire tie to bays than it does to remove psu cover put in and reattach...the toolbox etc most definitely goes in last....perhaps a slightly larger velcro strap would help...and you could use it for whatever afterwards


----------



## emsj86

how i mounted my pump and res in enthoo pro works well and silent.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## Reaper28

I finally ordered my watercooling stuff, can't wait to start building in my Luxe


----------



## Aislini

Hello guys
I'm building new machine and initially i chose 450D to build in.But recently i stumble onto Enthoo Pro and i like it and it is cheaper then 450d and from what i saw on some of reviews better build quality.
I will use AIO for my cpu now which one still not sure that is why im here to ask you guys for your insight since most of you have this case.My choices are Kelvin S36 or H105.I need to have optic bay because i have asus rog front base and i will also use cd/dvd rw. So only place for me to mount rad is on top and i would prefer to use kelvin.Can i fit 360mm rad on top without moving that entire optic/hdd/ssd block?
And if you have some idea how can i fit 360 rad in there please share.
Thanks in advance.


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aislini*
> 
> Hello guys
> I'm building new machine and initially i chose 450D to build in.But recently i stumble onto Enthoo Pro and i like it and it is cheaper then 450d and from what i saw on some of reviews better build quality.
> I will use AIO for my cpu now which one still not sure that is why im here to ask you guys for your insight since most of you have this case.My choices are Kelvin S36 or H105.I need to have optic bay because i have asus rog front base and i will also use cd/dvd rw. So only place for me to mount rad is on top and i would prefer to use kelvin.Can i fit 360mm rad on top without moving that entire optic/hdd/ssd block?
> And if you have some idea how can i fit 360 rad in there please share.
> Thanks in advance.


yes it will fir fine without moving anything.


----------



## emsj86

Pure fire is correct. I have a 360 in the pro now with my optical drive and a adapter for my hard drive. Also you have a ssd bracket so you can mount an ssd to the back. Which I would use as it saves space. You can even buy another one


----------



## Aislini

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PureBlackFire*
> 
> yes it will fir fine without moving anything.


That is great thank you so much for quick response.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> I have e a 369 in the pro now with my optical drive and a adapter for my hard drive. Also you have a ssd bracket so you can mount an ssd to the back


It's not a problem for ssd i can always find place for them.
Oh and by the way you have really nice build.


----------



## sugalumps

Finally got my nh-d15 in and now I can hear everything else(was held back by my get engine h100i), the front 200m fan has a grinding in the center of it. I have to keep it at 50%(lowest my mb allows fans) to tolerate it. I am not sure exactly how to describe it, it's kinda like a ticking/grinding/bumping.

Matters not I guess as I had planned and still do to replace it with two noctua 140mms. I am not sure why case manufacturers use 200mm fans at all, they are useless in comparison with little to no static pressure all the while being overly noisy. Also there are no really good 200m aftermarket fans to replace them with either.


----------



## morganism

Wondering if anyone has successfully mounted 120mm fans to the hard disk cages inside an Enthoo Primo? It looks like there are holes there in the right places, but they are too small to fit standard fan screws.

I'm running a lot of drives in RAID that tend to heat up so would be nice to get an extra fan or two in there as my ambient temps have jumped a good 10 degrees since putting in the raid...


----------



## Aislini

And what about that big 200mm fan in front is it any good,how loud is it. Should i change it for 120-140mm fans?


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aislini*
> 
> And what about that big 200mm fan in front is it any good,how loud is it. Should i change it for 120-140mm fans?


The front 200mm fan is useless throw it away and replace it with dual 120 or 140mm fans.


----------



## Aislini

Ok i will get then 2 140 from NB
Thank you for info.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morganism*
> 
> Wondering if anyone has successfully mounted 120mm fans to the hard disk cages inside an Enthoo Primo? It looks like there are holes there in the right places, but they are too small to fit standard fan screws.
> 
> I'm running a lot of drives in RAID that tend to heat up so would be nice to get an extra fan or two in there as my ambient temps have jumped a good 10 degrees since putting in the raid...


Yes, 120mm fans will fit on the HDD cages. The screws to fit them are the 30mm long screws in the Phanteks accessory toolbox.


----------



## morganism

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Yes, 120mm fans will fit on the HDD cages. The screws to fit them are the 30mm long screws in the Phanteks accessory toolbox.


Thanks mate! For some reason I did not think of that but yes those screw do work thanks to the threading in the case. Nice!


----------



## GOLDDUBBY

If you want to keep easy access to the drives, then you can mount the fans directly to the side panel with normal fanscrews from the outside in.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Attaching a fan to the side of the HDD cages where there are mounting screw holes for them won't effect access to the drives at all. It's a good spot to put a fan or fans to pull air through the hdd cages and blow directly on a gpu(s). I've seen people mount a rad there also in the Primo.


----------



## Mark011

guys would you prefer a 480 or a 420mm radiator on the top? i would use 4 sp120 for the first one, and 3 f140sp phanteks on the second one. Anyone tried to fit a 420x60 on the top? does it fit?


----------



## taem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mark011*
> 
> guys would you prefer a 480 or a 420mm radiator on the top? i would use 4 sp120 for the first one, and 3 f140sp phanteks on the second one. Anyone tried to fit a 420x60 on the top? does it fit?


With those fan choices if you can fit a 420 (ie mobo doesn't have high components along the upper edge) I would go with a 420. More cooling surface than a 480 and you'd have more space at either end to set up a fill port. Two fewer fans also,

I'm going with a 420 on my Primo with Maximus VII Gene for those reasons.

The main argument I can think of for the 480, other than a mobo with high components that won't allow a 420, is if you had to have AP15 fans, which a great many folks seem to insist on.

Have you looked into the new MP fans from Phanteks? That's what I'll be using, but I want the lowest rpms possible.


----------



## Mark011

i will use a maximus hero 7 or a mark S motherboard and dominator platinum ram, i just want to know if a 420 x 60 mm radiator would fit, i need to tell which radiator i choose to my sponsor


----------



## Faster_is_better

You can get the special edition orange primo or black primo for $215 shipped at newegg.com with promo code: VCOJAN25 (must use Visa checkout).

The white version is even cheaper if you factor in $20 off rebate on top of the above, brings it down to $195 after rebate.

I should be joining this club sometime next week


----------



## taem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mark011*
> 
> i will use a maximus hero 7 or a mark S motherboard and dominator platinum ram, i just want to know if a 420 x 60 mm radiator would fit, i need to tell which radiator i choose to my sponsor


Look at Jesse's comments on page 1. I don't think it answers your issue exactly but it gives some basic dimensions. I don't think p/p will be possible with that 55mm ram.


----------



## Mark011

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *taem*
> 
> Look at Jesse's comments on page 1. I don't think it answers your issue exactly but it gives some basic dimensions. I don't think p/p will be possible with that 55mm ram.


i will not p/p on top, just bottom, btw i asked alphacool to send an UT60 420 white edition instead of UT60 480, let's see if they already sent it or can change


----------



## Reaper28

Is anyone using LED fans in the Luxe? kind of curious what brands people are using with a semi restrictive front panel


----------



## pshootr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Reaper28*
> 
> Is anyone using LED fans in the Luxe? kind of curious what brands people are using with a semi restrictive front panel


I was wondering the same thing. I was looking at these, they are variable speed and red which I like. I would like to see what others have to say.


----------



## GOLDDUBBY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Attaching a fan to the side of the HDD cages where there are mounting screw holes for them won't effect access to the drives at all. It's a good spot to put a fan or fans to pull air through the hdd cages and blow directly on a gpu(s). I've seen people mount a rad there also in the Primo.


lol. Are you sure we're talking about the same case?

I'm pretty sure that the bracket he was talking about, is the one that mounts on the right side of the hdd cages (blocking the access to the drives)

At least that's the only bracket that mounts to the hdd bays afaik


----------



## pshootr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GOLDDUBBY*
> 
> lol. Are you sure we're talking about the same case?
> 
> I'm pretty sure that the bracket he was talking about, is the one that mounts on the right side of the hdd cages (blocking the access to the drives)


On my Luxe the drives slide in from the back of the case, so the side does not block access.


----------



## GOLDDUBBY

Oh nvm, Unicr0nhunter is absolutely right!! I was thinking of primo, not enthoo pro. rofl ^_^


----------



## cruxify

I recently purchased the Enthoo Luxe and I just have a couple of noob questions.

1) Do I plug my 4 pin CPU cooler fan into the hub and then plug the hub into the CPU fan socket on the mobo? The once that's done how can I go about regulating the fan speeds? I have a Gigabyte Z97X SOC mobo and I read a thread on here a few weeks back about Gigabyte boards not being able to save profile settings properly so I'm just a bit unsure about what exactly I should do.

2) Are the stock fans on the Luxe good enough? I live in Australia so everything is pretty expensive and I don't want to spend over $100 on fans if the returns won't be worthwhile. My house does get extremely hot in summer so would higher quality fans make much of a difference? Also there's a pretty slim availability of fans here compared to what you guys have in the US so if anyone knows of a site I can buy from with affordable shipping that'd be greatly appreciated. I'm also after either blue or black fans.

Thanks guys.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cruxify*
> 
> I recently purchased the Enthoo Luxe and I just have a couple of noob questions.
> 
> 1) Do I plug my 4 pin CPU cooler fan into the hub and then plug the hub into the CPU fan socket on the mobo? The once that's done how can I go about regulating the fan speeds? I have a Gigabyte Z97X SOC mobo and I read a thread on here a few weeks back about Gigabyte boards not being able to save profile settings properly so I'm just a bit unsure about what exactly I should do.
> 
> 2) Are the stock fans on the Luxe good enough? I live in Australia so everything is pretty expensive and I don't want to spend over $100 on fans if the returns won't be worthwhile. My house does get extremely hot in summer so would higher quality fans make much of a difference? Also there's a pretty slim availability of fans here compared to what you guys have in the US so if anyone knows of a site I can buy from with affordable shipping that'd be greatly appreciated. I'm also after either blue or black fans.
> 
> Thanks guys.


Yes, you plug the hub into the CPU fan header (or other PWM controlled header), and then the fans into that. I really can't comment on that board as I haven't used it.

Personally, I think that the 140SP in the rear exhaust is a very good fan......good enough that replacing the marginal 200mm in the front with two more of them makes a tremendous difference in airflow and noise. In other words, yes, it is worth it to replace that 200mm with a pair of good 140mm right off the bat.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GOLDDUBBY*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *GOLDDUBBY*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *morganism*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *morganism*
> 
> Wondering if anyone has successfully mounted 120mm fans to the hard disk cages inside an Enthoo Primo? It looks like there are holes there in the right places, but they are too small to fit standard fan screws.
> 
> I'm running a lot of drives in RAID that tend to heat up so would be nice to get an extra fan or two in there as my ambient temps have jumped a good 10 degrees since putting in the raid...
> 
> 
> 
> Yes, 120mm fans will fit on the HDD cages. The screws to fit them are the 30mm long screws in the Phanteks accessory toolbox.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Thanks mate! For some reason I did not think of that but yes those screw do work thanks to the threading in the case. Nice!
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Attaching a fan to the side of the HDD cages where there are mounting screw holes for them won't effect access to the drives at all. It's a good spot to put a fan or fans to pull air through the hdd cages and blow directly on a gpu(s). I've seen people mount a rad there also in the Primo.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> lol. Are you sure we're talking about the same case?
> 
> I'm pretty sure that the bracket he was talking about, is the one that mounts on the right side of the hdd cages (blocking the access to the drives)
> 
> At least that's the only bracket that mounts to the hdd bays afaik
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Oh nvm, Unicr0nhunter is absolutely right!! I was thinking of primo, not enthoo pro. rofl ^_^
Click to expand...

morganism and I were talking about the Primo, not the Pro. He never mentioned any 'bracket', so not sure where you got that from.

morganism asked about the threaded holes on the side of the HDD cages themselves in the Primo that are there for mounting 120mm fans and the screws to mount them there are in the Phanteks accessory toolbox. I don't have a Pro or Luxe to know if the HDD cages in those cases also have the same threaded holes and if so screws for them.



Like I said, the mounts for fans there can be helpful to pull airflow through your HDDs and onto your GPUs which I suppose would be especially handy if your case is aircooled, and they won't block access to your HDDs.


----------



## morganism

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> morganism and I were talking about the Primo, not the Pro. He never mentioned any 'bracket', so not sure where you got that from.
> 
> morganism asked about the threaded holes on the side of the HDD cages themselves in the Primo that are there for mounting 120mm fans and the screws to mount them there are in the Phanteks accessory toolbox. I don't have a Pro or Luxe to know if the HDD cages in those cases also have the same threaded holes and if so screws for them.
> 
> 
> 
> Like I said, the mounts for fans there can be helpful to pull airflow through your HDDs and onto your GPUs which I suppose would be especially handy if your case is aircooled, and they won't block access to your HDDs.


Yup, talking about the Primo. The fans on the HDD cases (front compartment) are def more convenient than the ones in the back/side panel which block the HDDs. Think they are designed for if you wanted Rad there for some reason.


----------



## Reaper28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pshootr*
> 
> I was wondering the same thing. I was looking at these, they are variable speed and red which I like. I would like to see what others have to say.


I heard Bitfenix fans aren't the best from some reviewers, I've got the SP140's and they don't seem to move a lot of air either.


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Reaper28*
> 
> I heard Bitfenix fans aren't the best from some reviewers, I've got the SP140's and they don't seem to move a lot of air either.


I had both the plain Bitfenix Spectre fans as well as the Spectre Pro fans.
The Spectre is very quiet but move almost no air at all which make it pretty useless, the Spectre Pro on the other hand does move more air but is really loud.

The Spectre Pro is an okey fan its just way too loud and you can get fans that are just as good and better and much more quiet.
Only real good thing about the Spectre Pro is they look good but they are not very good fans.


----------



## Reaper28

@shilka, Yeah exactly. I might try my Yate Loons to see how they work


----------



## shilka

I find that almost all LED fans are not very good, its almost like they make not very good fans into LED fans just to sucker someone into buying them.


----------



## Reaper28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> I find that almost all LED fans are not very good, its almost like they make not very good fans into LED fans just to sucker someone into buying them.


Usually true, only real LED fans I've really liked are Yate Loons at $5 a fan they perform, quiet and reliable. Only reason I'm using LED fans in the front of the Luxe is to illuminate the front panel a little more but honestly the SP140's don't do that well either. If it comes down to it I might get some Noctua's and use some cheap LED strips


----------



## GOLDDUBBY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> morganism and I were talking about the Primo, not the Pro. He never mentioned any 'bracket', so not sure where you got that from.
> 
> morganism asked about the threaded holes on the side of the HDD cages themselves in the Primo that are there for mounting 120mm fans and the screws to mount them there are in the Phanteks accessory toolbox. I don't have a Pro or Luxe to know if the HDD cages in those cases also have the same threaded holes and if so screws for them.
> 
> 
> 
> Like I said, the mounts for fans there can be helpful to pull airflow through your HDDs and onto your GPUs which I suppose would be especially handy if your case is aircooled, and they won't block access to your HDDs.


Oh I had no idea you could put fans there, that's actually kind of cool. Unfortunately I dont have the bottom cage. To make room for a 480mm radiator in the bottom, and the 2'nd drive cage is blocked by the reservoir.

What I do have however is 2 fans blowing in to the case, and one on the upper hdd cage.

There is a radiator/fan bracket that can be mounted there. However, I can fit it well due to cables etc, and also it totally blocks off the access to the drives in the cage.

That's why I have them mounted on the sidepanel instead. (With the filter ofc)


----------



## jameschisholm

http://www.scan.co.uk/products/140mm-enermax-tbapollish-case-fan-red-led-twister-bearing-detachable-blades I own 2 of these fans, they've been decent, just a suggestion. However my Luxe just arrived and I'm no longer going to be using these fans, going black and white so.


----------



## GOLDDUBBY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jameschisholm*
> 
> http://www.scan.co.uk/products/140mm-enermax-tbapollish-case-fan-red-led-twister-bearing-detachable-blades I own 2 of these fans, they've been decent, just a suggestion. However my Luxe just arrived and I'm no longer going to be using these fans, going black and white so.


Nice fan. Not enough blades imo. To move air through a radiator or hdd cage, you should look for fans with high static pressure, generally fans with wide or higher amount of blades that overlap eachother.


----------



## jameschisholm

When I transplant my build into the Luxe, I've already bought this http://www.overclockers.co.uk/showproduct.php?prodid=FG-014-PT to replace the fan on my Hyper 212+, I did think about getting the XP editions of this for the front 2 fans? That lip on the edge of the blades is cool


----------



## GOLDDUBBY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jameschisholm*
> 
> When I transplant my build into the Luxe, I've already bought this http://www.overclockers.co.uk/showproduct.php?prodid=FG-014-PT to replace the fan on my Hyper 212+, I did think about getting the XP editions of this for the front 2 fans? That lip on the edge of the blades is cool


THOSE ARE REALLY NICE!


----------



## GOLDDUBBY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> 
> 
> .. the mounts for fans there can be helpful to pull airflow through your HDDs and onto your GPUs which I suppose would be especially handy if your case is aircooled, and they won't block access to your HDDs.


I managed to move my reservoir an inch higher. Causing some concerns about next time I need to fill the loop, but yolo I managed to fit a fan on the hdd cage facing in to the case, like you said!


----------



## Faster_is_better

Son of a.... Newegg released the Green and Red special edition Primo's today, and I just ordered a black one yesterday or day before.... Link

Slight overpriced at the moment (compared to the others, they have +$20 shipping), but available... I figured it would be some months before they got on here.


----------



## GOLDDUBBY

They should fix the kinks instead of changing the paint.

1. Screw the logo with normal screws, and straighten the panel opening up for all size 480mm rads to be mounted in the bottom.

2. The reservoir holder/cable hider needs to be slim all the way down, to not block mounting gpu's in the 2 lower pci.e lanes.

3. Change the click holders to ones the doesnt break by looking at them.


----------



## jameschisholm

Yeah so the phanteks MP120 fan I got is great except the area where you would normally screw the fan to something, has a column structure that blocks access to the holes, which I need for mounting the fan using the provided clips on my HYper 212+.

So guys recommend me a black frame, white fin, 120mm static pressure fan which allows me to use said clips?

thanks


----------



## VulgarDisplay88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jameschisholm*
> 
> Yeah so the phanteks MP120 fan I got is great except the area where you would normally screw the fan to something, has a column structure that blocks access to the holes, which I need for mounting the fan using the provided clips on my HYper 212+.
> 
> So guys recommend me a black frame, white fin, 120mm static pressure fan which allows me to use said clips?
> 
> thanks


Wish I had seen your other post earlier so I could have told you that. I bought 2 to replace the white ones on my PH-TC12DX. I tried to cut one so it was open cornered but it didn't end well so I threw it in the bin and the other one is just sitting in my drawer.


----------



## jameschisholm

I did think about putting it in the case somewhere as a chassis fan, but I'm sure all I'll be doing is adding more noise


----------



## VulgarDisplay88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jameschisholm*
> 
> I did think about putting it in the case somewhere as a chassis fan, but I'm sure all I'll be doing is adding more noise


I added it to the roof of my Evolv but it added a lot of noise so I removed it. Shame because they look nice and a really good quality.


----------



## jameschisholm

Could you not have connected it with pwm and turned the speed down a bit so it acts as a airflow fan?


----------



## VulgarDisplay88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jameschisholm*
> 
> Could you not have connected it with pwm and turned the speed down a bit so it acts as a airflow fan?


It was connected to the hub and running slower but it made it so much louder. I installed an AF140 instead and it is a lot quieter.


----------



## jameschisholm

Ah right, cool. Well I'm stumped as to what I should do with mine. I may just keep it as spare.


----------



## Gil80

So I'm working on the Primo case for about a week. Mostly planning the build.

I really like this case but I do have one complaint.

I'm using a simple XSPC double bay res but I also have a 250/50mm tube res just for bling effect... But I can't use it in the tube res mount because of my 2 R9 290 GPU... I mean, ***?! Why not adding at least 3-5cm on length??









That's called 1st world problems LOL


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gil80*
> 
> So I'm working on the Primo case for about a week. Mostly planning the build.
> 
> I really like this case but I do have one complaint.
> 
> I'm using a simple XSPC double bay res but I also have a 250/50mm tube res just for bling effect... But I can't use it in the tube res mount because of my 2 R9 290 GPU... I mean, ***?! Why not adding at least 3-5cm on length??
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's called 1st world problems LOL


I wound up usiing the rear reservoir mount because of that, but no complaints.


----------



## madmalkav

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *madmalkav*
> 
> I have found some info -dunno if it is ok to link to other forums- of it burning MOSFET if you set the min PWM too low. Any info on this? I have contacted Phanteks through their web form but still haven't received a reply.


Hate to autoquote me on this but haven't received any reply from Phanteks and I think it is an important topic. Any info guys?


----------



## kjrayo18




----------



## Freaxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gil80*
> 
> So I'm working on the Primo case for about a week. Mostly planning the build.
> 
> I really like this case but I do have one complaint.
> 
> I'm using a simple XSPC double bay res but I also have a 250/50mm tube res just for bling effect... But I can't use it in the tube res mount because of my 2 R9 290 GPU... I mean, ***?! Why not adding at least 3-5cm on length??
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's called 1st world problems LOL


I think everybody has that complaint








I drilled holes in the backplate myself to fit the tube res in that place, though it brings it more to the back.
Another option is some L profile to fit the tube res to the 5.25" bays, like these: http://www.ekwb.com/shop/reservoirs-and-acc/reservoir-acc/ek-uni-holder-50-70.html


----------



## GOLDDUBBY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kjrayo18*


How many fps you get ?


----------



## kjrayo18

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GOLDDUBBY*
> 
> How many fps you get ?


. The max the games allows is 90 or 90 something I don't pay much attention I just know I never lag lol


----------



## GOLDDUBBY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kjrayo18*
> 
> . The max the games allows is 90 or 90 something I don't pay much attention I just know I never lag lol


Ugh? .. what games are locked to 90 fps, by using v-synk or am I missing something ?

Nice litte machine!


----------



## kjrayo18

Oh sorry the only games I've played are cod games so far still waiting for a new battle field and gta ?


----------



## the matty

anyone got an enthoo pro with an SSI-EEB motherboard in it? needing to look at one to measure up for my next build XD


----------



## Svntn

Hi, im not a phanteks enthoo owner but will be soon... Just wanted to ask the Enthoo Luxe owners if the case can be fully disassembled for transporting purposes. I live in US and ill be moving to Philippines in a few months. There no local dealers of phanteks there so im planning to get one here, disassemble it and pack it in my luggage if possible.. Thanks


----------



## Mark011

Just send it with a carrier...i'm from italy and i will move to uk in few months, i will send the assembled Primo, plus monitor etc


----------



## jameschisholm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VulgarDisplay88*
> 
> It was connected to the hub and running slower but it made it so much louder. I installed an AF140 instead and it is a lot quieter.


I've decided upon this Noiseblocker NB-eLoop Fan B12-PS - 120mm PWM

There is a B12-P 2000rpm pwm alternative too, but I figured I'd go for a silent one. Who know's I may buy 2.


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jameschisholm*
> 
> I've decided upon this Noiseblocker NB-eLoop Fan B12-PS - 120mm PWM
> 
> There is a B12-P 2000rpm pwm alternative too, but I figured I'd go for a silent one. Who know's I may buy 2.


Phobya has a red and black version if you are not aware.
Onthe other hand they only have one speed.

.


----------



## jameschisholm

Thanks for the info, however for my rig I've switched to a black and white theme, so the Noiseblockers fit that bill better.


----------



## GOLDDUBBY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kjrayo18*
> 
> Oh sorry the only games I've played are cod games so far still waiting for a new battle field and gta ?


I was in the beta group of bf-hardline if that's the game you're waiting for ? I give it 6/10

Here are some other games you might want to check out,

http://toxikk.com

http://evolvegame.com


----------



## Gil80

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Freaxy*
> 
> I think everybody has that complaint
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I drilled holes in the backplate myself to fit the tube res in that place, though it brings it more to the back.
> Another option is some L profile to fit the tube res to the 5.25" bays, like these: http://www.ekwb.com/shop/reservoirs-and-acc/reservoir-acc/ek-uni-holder-50-70.html


In my case I have to use a dremel to cut deeper into the res holder or use the res at the back above the GPUs.


----------



## emsj86

. .


----------



## Gil80

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> . .


Beautiful build, mate. I hope to get half of that level in my primo build.

Is there a smart way to mount the tube res above the PCI cards but in a way that I won't have to drain the loop each time I have to remove a gpu?


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gil80*
> 
> Beautiful build, mate. I hope to get half of that level in my primo build.
> 
> Is there a smart way to mount the tube res above the PCI cards but in a way that I won't have to drain the loop each time I have to remove a gpu?


with hardline Im not sure of a way around it.... even without it wouldn't be easy and needing it out and in the hand wouldn't be possible either if the gpu is air cooled you might be able to squeak it past the res..I'm thinking when I get the 290s I will have to move my res as well...granted I'm in the Pro but still


----------



## Gil80

I'm using soft tubing. I think it leaves me no choice but to dermel the res bracket.


----------



## GOLDDUBBY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gil80*
> 
> I'm using soft tubing. I think it leaves me no choice but to dermel the res bracket.


Do it! the rest of us have.


----------



## Gil80

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GOLDDUBBY*
> 
> Do it! the rest of us have.


But if I water cool my GPU, then they fit nicely with the bracket. It's the Gigabyte Windforce that extends the length of the card.
The PCB itself is 26.7cm which can fit.


----------



## Freaxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gil80*
> 
> But if I water cool my GPU, then they fit nicely with the bracket. It's the Gigabyte Windforce that extends the length of the card.
> The PCB itself is 26.7cm which can fit.


Yeah it sucks. My bottom G1 card couldn't fit with the waterblock in the 4th PCI-e slot.
If only phanteks made the cutout a bit longer.
I also thought off using a dremel and might still do that. But I might need to drain the loop then to make the tubing to the pump fit again.


----------



## jameschisholm

Does anyone else's side window look like a dust magnet lol


----------



## 47 Knucklehead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jameschisholm*
> 
> Does anyone else's side window look like a dust magnet lol


The joys of static electricity and plastic.

This is gonna sound dumb, but take a dryer sheet (like Bounce) and lightly rub it on the clear plastic window on both sides.


----------



## jameschisholm

Might also help with the fine scratches too?

Also what is the exact model of the 140mm stock fans?

The scratches are barely visible, and recently I've moved my 6-led strip so its on the inside lip at the bottom between the side panel and psu cover, facing the cover itself, to that's solved it.


----------



## 47 Knucklehead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jameschisholm*
> 
> Might also help with the fine scratches too?
> 
> Also what is the exact model of the 140mm stock fans?
> 
> The scratches are barely visible, and recently I've moved my 6-led strip so its on the inside lip at the bottom between the side panel and psu cover, facing the cover itself, to that's solved it.


Their site says the Primo includes 5 PH-=F140SP fans.

http://www.phanteksusa.com/products/phanteks-enthoo-primo


----------



## jameschisholm

Nevermind, just checked and yes theyre the same.


----------



## Sequincer

So does anyone know of good 140mm fans for Radiators? I live in Canada and am only able to find Corsair SP140 with LED here and I don't want 6 LED fans for my top radiator. I know I can purchase Noctua 140mm fans, but they are very expensive. Any other good alternatives? I will be running them at low RPM.


----------



## jameschisholm

The MP series of fans by Phanteks may be worth a look?

http://www.phanteksusa.com/products/phanteks-ph-f140mp


----------



## GOLDDUBBY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *47 Knucklehead*
> 
> Their site says the Primo includes 5 PH-=F140SP fans.
> 
> http://www.phanteksusa.com/products/phanteks-enthoo-primo


I use them in an other build. The fact that they are stuck at 1200 rpm makes them a no-go for me.

I best like very high-speed static pressure fans, that can be turned down to super low speed and off, when the system is idle or just being used for webbrowsing etc.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GOLDDUBBY*
> 
> I use them in an other build. The fact that they are stuck at 1200 rpm makes them a no-go for me.
> 
> I best like very high-speed static pressure fans, that can be turned down to super low speed and off, when the system is idle or just being used for webbrowsing etc.


They aren't stuck at 1200 rpm. They actually have very low start up speeds. I typically have mine running right around 500 rpm.


----------



## dallas1990

Anyone thinks that the stock dust filters don't do much? I have the primo and I need to get better dust filters. I almost decided to cut up a swifer dust pad. And place some pieces in a couple of corners to see how that works. But I'm afraid of the static shorting out something


----------



## sugalumps

Replaced the front 200mm with two noctua nf-a14s and it's night and day difference, so much quieter(though I had a clicky 200mm fan) and the temps have dropped a few c.


----------



## GOLDDUBBY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *47 Knucklehead*
> 
> Their site says the Primo includes 5 PH-=F140SP fans.
> 
> http://www.phanteksusa.com/products/phanteks-enthoo-primo


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GOLDDUBBY*
> 
> I use them in an other build. The fact that they are stuck at 1200 rpm makes them a no-go for me.
> 
> I best like very high-speed static pressure fans, that can be turned down to super low speed and off, when the system is idle or just being used for webbrowsing etc.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> They aren't stuck at 1200 rpm. They actually have very low start up speeds. I typically have mine running right around 500 rpm.


Then you must have a special one!









*Phanteks PH-F140SP Series*

*9 Blade Design with MVB
UFB Bearings
900mm total cable length
1200±250 rpm*

http://www.phanteks.com/PH-F140SP.html


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GOLDDUBBY*
> 
> Then you must have a special one!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Phanteks PH-F140SP Series*
> 
> *9 Blade Design with MVB
> UFB Bearings
> 900mm total cable length
> 1200±250 rpm*
> 
> http://www.phanteks.com/PH-F140SP.html


No....I simply plugged them into voltage regulated headers.....since they are fans with speed regulated by voltage. The 1200 rpm rating is for 12V. At lower voltages the 140SP spins slower. As anyone here who owns a Phanteks case can tell you, they are not a single speed fan.


----------



## 47 Knucklehead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> No....I simply plugged them into voltage regulated headers.....since they are fans with speed regulated by voltage. The 1200 rpm rating is for 12V. At lower voltages the 140SP spins slower. As anyone here who owns a Phanteks case can tell you, they are not a single speed fan.


Yup.

The Phanteks PH-F140SP run at 1200 RPM at 12VDC, but if you vary the voltage with a fan controller (I use an Aqueaero 6XT), you can make them go as fast or slow as you want, and at low speed, say 500-800 RPM, they are virtually silent.

If you want a PWM fan, then the Phanteks PH-F140MP is the fan you want.

Truth be told, the PH-F140MP is the fan you want to use for radiators anyway, it has a nigher static pressure.

PH-F140MP
500-1600 RPM
68.1 CFM
17-25.3 dBA
1.62mm H20

PH-F140SP (Stock fan included with the case)
1200 RPM
82.1 CFM
19 dBA
1.33mm H20


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

I suspect the ±250 rpm means a variation in the fan's top speed, not the entire range of speed control the fan is capable of.

I've no trouble controlling any of the Phanteks fans that came with my Primo from around 500rpm up to 1250rpm. I'm not exactly sure of the lowest speed they start at because they begin to spin at around 2.6v (24% on my Lamptron CW611 fan controller) but they will read as 0rpm until I get to 3.7v (32%) where the fan speed then reads about 575rpm.

Here's what I mean:



If that doesn't put the "stuck at 1200 rpm" myth to rest I don't know what will.


----------



## madmalkav

Connected to the fan hub of the Enthoo Primo and regulated with Speedfan at 1% speed they report 725-750 RPM. It's great, really quiet, I won't leave this as the minimum configuration because of my concerns about the possibility of the hub having overheating problems at too low PWM values but it will be a bless if I could leave them configured this low.


----------



## owcraftsman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dallas1990*
> 
> Anyone thinks that the stock dust filters don't do much? I have the primo and I need to get better dust filters. I almost decided to cut up a swifer dust pad. And place some pieces in a couple of corners to see how that works. But I'm afraid of the static shorting out something


IMO the filters are adequate. Sure they could be better but at the expense of restricting air flow. A trade off most aren't willing to sacrifice. You'd be better off setting up a positive air flow arrangement. In other words more air going into the case than being exhausted. For example top fans, bottom fan and front case fans pushing in to case and one fan rear for exhaust. The latter 3 are filtered and forcing air out of any available opening of which there are many. For those who have tried it self included it results in less dust settling in the case. Of course you will never get away with zero maintenance but not as often. GL


----------



## MrGrievous

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *madmalkav*
> 
> Connected to the fan hub of the Enthoo Primo and regulated with Speedfan at 1% speed they report 725-750 RPM. It's great, really quiet, I won't leave this as the minimum configuration because of my concerns about the possibility of the hub having overheating problems at too low PWM values but it will be a bless if I could leave them configured this low.


Thais what I use daily for my setup when its not doing anything demanding at all which is the majority of the day/night for about 9 months now. Speedfan makes a great combo with the fan hub that's for sure.


----------



## GOLDDUBBY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> No....I simply plugged them into voltage regulated headers.....since they are fans with speed regulated by voltage. The 1200 rpm rating is for 12V. At lower voltages the 140SP spins slower. As anyone here who owns a Phanteks case can tell you, they are not a single speed fan.


The motor have a start up and operating power of 12v.

A regulator wont change this, unfortunately.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GOLDDUBBY*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> No....I simply plugged them into voltage regulated headers.....since they are fans with speed regulated by voltage. The 1200 rpm rating is for 12V. At lower voltages the 140SP spins slower. As anyone here who owns a Phanteks case can tell you, they are not a single speed fan.
> 
> 
> 
> The motor have a start up and operating power of 12v.
> 
> A regulator wont change this, unfortunately.
Click to expand...

That's just wrong. The Phanteks PH-F140SP fans start spinning at 2.6 volts and around 500rpm. Heck, I even posted pics above showing just that. You are so mistaken. Clearly the "±250 rpm" you quoted from the Phanteks site is referring to variations in the fan's top speed, not it's total range of voltage control. sheez


----------



## GOLDDUBBY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> That's just wrong. The Phanteks PH-F140SP fans start spinning at 2.6 volts and around 500rpm. Heck, I even posted pics above showing just that. You are so mistaken. Clearly the "±250 rpm" you quoted from the Phanteks site is referring to variations in the fan's top speed, not it's total range of voltage control. sheez


The five I have all start at 12v, I can then maybe force the motor to spin slightly slower, by lowering the volt to 10.9v but the fan doesn't move fluent like they are supposed to then. At any lower voltage they stop operating.

Maybe I have like an older version idk.

Also my fan controller is a simple one, only dish out 40%,50%,60%,70%,80%,90%,100%

The fan doesnt spin on any of those values except 100% and a choppy weird spinning at 99%


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GOLDDUBBY*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> That's just wrong. The Phanteks PH-F140SP fans start spinning at 2.6 volts and around 500rpm. Heck, I even posted pics above showing just that. You are so mistaken. Clearly the "±250 rpm" you quoted from the Phanteks site is referring to variations in the fan's top speed, not it's total range of voltage control. sheez
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The five I have all start at 12v, I can then maybe force the motor to spin slightly slower, by lowering the volt to 10.9v but the fan doesn't move fluent like they are supposed to then. At any lower voltage they stop operating.
> 
> Maybe I have like an older version idk.
Click to expand...

I dunno about "older version". I pre-ordered my Primo from Phanteks several months before it was released in Oct 2013 and was among the first to receive the case, other than the review samples that went out before it.

All of mine start spinning well below 3v and under 600rpm and have a full range of control up through 1250rpm at 12v.

Proof:



Several others have reported the same with their fans above. Everyone but you. Something you have is broken, and it's probably not the fans but whatever you were trying to control them with.


----------



## GOLDDUBBY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> I dunno about "older version". I pre-ordered my Primo from Phanteks several months before it was released in Oct 2013 and was among the first to receive the case, other than the review samples that went out before it.
> 
> All of mine start spinning well below 3v and under 600rpm and have a full range of control up through 1250rpm at 12v.
> 
> Proof:
> 
> 
> 
> Something you have is broken, and it's probably not the fans but whatever you were trying to control them with.


That might be. But all other fans works just great with my supposedly broken gear idk. Also the fans have the same behaviour on other fan controllers. I've had them in multiple setups since 2013/2014.

not that I have any real use for 140mm fans anyways.

They are silent even at their rated speed, so having one or two for circulation/intake works great. Since they are free


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Well, you are the only person I've seen yet who has had that issue with these fans. Several others besides myself have posted above, and numerous people all through this thread have had no issues controlling the speeds of these fans (the numerous issues with the hub notwithstanding).

It seems nuts to me that you really think/thought that Phanteks sold the case with the fans connected to a hub that isn't capable of controlling them and it didn't cross your mind that something was wrong somewhere? The idea that somehow all 5 of your fans are somehow faulty to where they only run at full speed at 12v seems a bit absurd. I could not be made to believe it unless I saw it for myself. Occam's Razor would favor that something else went wrong.


----------



## GOLDDUBBY

Just dont have that much use for 140mm fans that I bothered to care. The only effort I made was to read the phantek page and some resellers page that stated them to only work on 12v.

If you can control them, good for you! Unfortunately they are still 140mm fans, so I doubt many people care.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Well, you are the only person I've seen yet who has had that issue with these fans. Several others besides myself have posted above, and numerous people all through this thread have had no issues controlling the speeds of these fans (the numerous issues with the hub notwithstanding).
> 
> It seems nuts to me that you really think/thought that Phanteks sold the case with the fans connected to a hub that isn't capable of controlling them and it didn't cross your mind that something was wrong somewhere? The idea that somehow all 5 of your fans are somehow faulty to where they only run at full speed at 12v seems a bit absurd. I could not be made to believe it unless I saw it for myself. Occam's Razor would favor that something else went wrong.


I have to agree. I had meant to point out the fact that they were connected to a fan hub.....

I have no less than 16 140SP, and none have any issue with speed control.


----------



## Faster_is_better

If UPS tracking is correct... I should have a Primo sitting at home









I hope it survived the journey, ~50 lbs being thrown across many 100's of miles probably doesn't do these cases well.


----------



## 47 Knucklehead

If a picture is worth a thousand words, then a video at 30 frames a second should be worth a whole lot more.

Here is a quick and dirty video I just shot showing my Aquaero 6XT with Aquasuite controlling a Phantek PH-F140SP LED, a Phantek PH-F140SP, and a Cougar CF-V12H and varying the RPMs from 468 to 1200, all via altering the voltage from about 4.1V to 11.6V.






BTW, my Phantek Enthoo Primo is pretty old. I took delivery of it (and the fans) back on December 3, 2013.

[Edit]

And yes, the 1200 RPM +/- 250 means that at 12V, the fans TOP RPM is between 950 and 1450 RPM ... but it doesn't mean that it will fluxuate that much, it's just that they are saying that 2 fans may not have the identical top end speed (one may be 1200RPM, one may be 1100RPM, one may be 1350RPM at the same 12V. The reality is, all 5 that I have are all about 1200RPM (plus or minus about 50RPM) of each other at 12V. At 12V, the RPMs don't vary much at all ... maybe 10 or 20 RPM over a period of time. Your controller may have more "flutter" in it's DtoA (Digital to Analog) circuit.


----------



## GOLDDUBBY

Well I have to give in on this. The PH-F140SP are not "stuck" on 1200 +/- 250rpm with good enough volt regulators/fan controller they do seem to work like any other fan!

Might need to look in to a better fan-controller and some 140mm radiators now







..what's the stp 1.3 ish ?

No but really. Thanks for clearing things up guys! They are really great 140mm fans, and when you buy a primo you even get a bunch of them for free!

ps. the only argument that made no sense at all was "they come attached to a fan splitter/hub" lots of cases have that.


----------



## Jeemil89

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *47 Knucklehead*
> 
> Yup.
> 
> The Phanteks PH-F140SP run at 1200 RPM at 12VDC, but if you vary the voltage with a fan controller (I use an Aqueaero 6XT), you can make them go as fast or slow as you want, and at low speed, say 500-800 RPM, they are virtually silent.
> 
> If you want a PWM fan, then the Phanteks PH-F140MP is the fan you want.
> 
> Truth be told, the PH-F140MP is the fan you want to use for radiators anyway, it has a nigher static pressure.
> 
> PH-F140MP
> 500-1600 RPM
> 68.1 CFM
> 17-25.3 dBA
> 1.62mm H20
> 
> PH-F140SP (Stock fan included with the case)
> 1200 RPM
> 82.1 CFM
> 19 dBA
> 1.33mm H20


Shouldn't the fans be compared at the same rpm? Since the 1.62mm H2O on the 140MP is probably measured at 1600 rpm, and the 1.33mm H2O on the 140SP is measured at 1200rpm, so obviously it's higher. I know the MP fan is designed to have more static pressure, but both fans should be compared to each other at the same rpm. Only then can you determine which fan has better performance and noise/performance ratio. The performance of the fan design can also be different at different speeds but it would be nice to have a comparison at comfortable noise levels, like ~800rpm.


----------



## madmalkav

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrGrievous*
> 
> Thais what I use daily for my setup when its not doing anything demanding at all which is the majority of the day/night for about 9 months now. Speedfan makes a great combo with the fan hub that's for sure.


So, you have been using the fan hub at 1% PWM for 9 months without problems at all? If that's the case I will try it.


----------



## Firann

Hey guys I am deciding between a Pro and a Luxe to transfer from an Obsidian 700D (still debating if its worth tbh) and I was wondering whether you can clarify some information regarding the two cases.

Now I understand the Luxe has some cosmetic differences (front/top panel, lighting) and can fit fans under the top panel however are there any other differences between the two cases? From my understanding both have the pump mount on the bottom and a detachable reservoir mount so what else is included with the Luxe? I've seen some reviews mention a radiator side mount but that has me quite puzzled.

If there isnt much difference im gonna go with the Pro €36 difference (not that big of a deal) but the deal breaker is that the Pro comes in black where as the Luxe is only available in white here.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Firann*
> 
> Hey guys I am deciding between a Pro and a Luxe to transfer from an Obsidian 700D (still debating if its worth tbh) and I was wondering whether you can clarify some information regarding the two cases.
> 
> Now I understand the Luxe has some cosmetic differences (front/top panel, lighting) and can fit fans under the top panel however are there any other differences between the two cases? From my understanding both have the pump mount on the bottom and a detachable reservoir mount so what else is included with the Luxe? I've seen some reviews mention a radiator side mount but that has me quite puzzled.
> 
> If there isnt much difference im gonna go with the Pro €36 difference (not that big of a deal) but the deal breaker is that the Pro comes in black where as the Luxe is only available in white here.


The Pro and the Luxe both share the same underlying chassis but ...

- The Luxe comes with the window and psu cover, which are optional with the Pro (you can buy the Pro with or without them)
- The Luxe comes with 2 SSD brackets, the Pro comes with one.
- The Luxe comes with a pump bracket
- The Luxe has built-in RGB LED lighting
- The front & top panels in the Pro are a plastic (simulated brushed aluminum). The Luxe top and front panels are sandblasted aluminum.
- The top filter in the Pro is fixed in place, while the one in the Luxe has push-click latches that make it easily removable so it can be cleaned and so you can access the top section for fans.
- The top panel on the Luxe is taller allowing room for an extra layer of fans on top of the chassis under the filter cover. The Pro up top has 65mm room above the mobo for a rad & fans, so up to 40mm thick rad + 25mm fans. The Luxe has that same 65mm plus another 25mm for fans on top of the chassis under the taller panel with the removable filter, so can fit up to a 40mm rad with fans on top and bottom in push-pull, or up to a 65mm thick rad with fans on top.


----------



## 47 Knucklehead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeemil89*
> 
> Shouldn't the fans be compared at the same rpm? Since the 1.62mm H2O on the 140MP is probably measured at 1600 rpm, and the 1.33mm H2O on the 140SP is measured at 1200rpm, so obviously it's higher. I know the MP fan is designed to have more static pressure, but both fans should be compared to each other at the same rpm. Only then can you determine which fan has better performance and noise/performance ratio. The performance of the fan design can also be different at different speeds but it would be nice to have a comparison at comfortable noise levels, like ~800rpm.


Static Pressure and Velocity Pressure are not the same. They are inter-related, and using the Bernoulli's principle, one may come up with a close approximation set of numbers, but the best way to measure them is using a manometer (which I don't have). But the short answer is, no, they aren't the same.

The higher the Static Pressure, the better the ability to overcome airflow restrictions (which are caused by a radiators fins). Simply increasing the velocity of the air will not do that as well. When faster air hits those restrictions, it will bounce around and cause turbulence, which reduces cooling efficiency and increases noise.

Here is a clip from a good explanation from Reddit.
Quote:


> *CFM and velocity:* Airflow volume in Cubic Feet per Minute. It can be represented in metric numbers as well. This determines how quickly a fan can move air to fill up a certain volume *unimpeded*.
> 
> *Static Pressure:* Usually measured in mm/H2O or in/H2O, this refers to the fan's ability to generate a pressure difference required to overcome system impedance. System impedance is measured in negative static pressure values while fans are positive pressure values. The greater the fan's ability to generate this pressure difference, the greater the ability the fan has to move air through restrictions.
> 
> In high restrictions such as heatsinks and radiators, the fan is usually unable to deflect air with enough velocity to cool a component. Therefore, it must create a pressure difference to allow air to literally diffuse past the restriction much like how high-pressure air likes to move to a low-pressure area.




__
https://www.reddit.com/r/25nm7c/basics_of_fan_dynamics/%5B/URL





I hope that one day, Martin or someone will use their test benches to test BOTH fans.


----------



## Jeemil89

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *47 Knucklehead*
> 
> Static Pressure and Velocity Pressure are not the same. They are inter-related, and using the Bernoulli's principle, one may come up with a close approximation set of numbers, but the best way to measure them is using a manometer (which I don't have). But the short answer is, no, they aren't the same.
> 
> The higher the Static Pressure, the better the ability to overcome airflow restrictions (which are caused by a radiators fins). Simply increasing the velocity of the air will not do that as well. When faster air hits those restrictions, it will bounce around and cause turbulence, which reduces cooling efficiency and increases noise.
> 
> Here is a clip from a good explanation from Reddit.
> 
> __
> https://www.reddit.com/r/25nm7c/basics_of_fan_dynamics/%5B/URL
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I hope that one day, Martin or someone will use their test benches to test BOTH fans.


Where did I speak about velocity? Increasing fan speed will increase static pressure. For example the Corsair SP Quiet edition fan produces 1.29mm H2O of pressure at 1450 rpm and the same fan produces 3.1mm H2O at 2350 rpm (High performance edition). That's why it would be interesting to see what kind of pressure the 140SP would produce at the same rpm (1600rpm) as the 140MP model.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeemil89*
> 
> Shouldn't the fans be compared at the same rpm? Since the 1.62mm H2O on the 140MP is probably measured at 1600 rpm, and the 1.33mm H2O on the 140SP is measured at 1200rpm, so obviously it's higher. I know the MP fan is designed to have more static pressure, but both fans should be compared to each other at the same rpm. Only then can you determine which fan has better performance and noise/performance ratio. The performance of the fan design can also be different at different speeds but it would be nice to have a comparison at comfortable noise levels, like ~800rpm.


If you want to compare fan's noise/performance ratio, then the rpm doesn't matter. Fans shouldn't be "_compared to each other at the same rpm_". Instead what you want to compare is airflow at comparable noise levels, or noise levels at comparable air flow (air flow on one axis and noise levels on the other). That's all that matters. It doesn't matter at all how fast they are spinning. That has nothing to do with anything.

I'd like to see some of these new 'radiator optimized' fans like the Phanteks MPs and EK Vardars tested against the old tried and true Gentle Typhoons and plotted against each other in an airflow/noise level graph like Martin's 50 fan-on-rad testing:



When it comes to noise/airflow on a rad, there's long been Gentle Typhoon low-speed fans (2150rpm models and below), everyone else, and the gap in between. Or, if you're not all that bothered by vacuum cleaner like noise, the Delta VHE starts near where the GT's leave off and follows on a similar noise/airflow trajectory just at much louder / more airflow levels.

My guess is these new fans claiming to be radiator optimized will land somewhere in the pack with the rest of those fans. Of the two I mentioned, the EK Vardar are a bit interesting. At least they are ball bearing fans. They might actually be better than par though I seriously doubt they could outperform Gentle Typhoons on a rad. I really don't think any fan ever will.

Then again, I don't put much if any validity into anyone's fan testing methodology these days when it comes to how they perform on radiators. Testing done in open air and on air coolers does not apply at all to how fans perform on a rad (Noctuas are a good example - they do great on an air cooler but only average on a rad) and there's been several people of late trying to fill the gap left by Martin since he retired posting testing results who don't even have a decent way to reliably measure airflow. If they aren't posting pics and details of their testing rig AND vids of the actual tests taking place (like Martin did) then their testing is worse than meaningless to me. Complete waste of their and my time.


----------



## 47 Knucklehead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeemil89*
> 
> Where did I speak about velocity? Increasing fan speed will increase static pressure. For example the Corsair SP Quiet edition fan produces 1.29mm H2O of pressure at 1450 rpm and the same fan produces 3.1mm H2O at 2350 rpm (High performance edition). That's why it would be interesting to see what kind of pressure the 140SP would produce at the same rpm (1600rpm) as the 140MP model.


Yes, increasing RPM will increase pressure, but it also increases noise. That is why having a higher pressure at a lower fan on a radiator is better (and by better I mean less noisy) than just using a 4500RPM fan to "brute force" the Static Pressure up.

Yeah, it would be interesting to see a real test, but I don't have the hardware or time to do it properly, so I just have to go by trial and error with my Aquaero 6XT, my acoustic meter (and my ear) and the water temperature sensors on my radiators. There are a TON of variables out there to make an effective and useful graph. But just from my personal experience, keeping the noise level the same, the PH-F140MP cools just a little bit better (about 2C) than the PH-F140SP, and does it at a lower RPM.

Others may want to keep temperature the same, and thus not prioritize noise. Still others are hung up on RPM and may prioritize that.


----------



## madmalkav

About the "Don't use an splitter on the hub fan1 port of the hub", it is because the splitters that came with it doesn't send RPM reading back right? I mean, if I use a splitter with will send back the RPM signal from only one of the fans it is ok to use in that port?


----------



## 47 Knucklehead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *madmalkav*
> 
> About the "Don't use an splitter on the hub fan1 port of the hub", it is because the splitters that came with it doesn't send RPM reading back right? I mean, if I use a splitter with will send back the RPM signal from only one of the fans it is ok to use in that port?


The Phantek PWM controller uses the PSU power supply for the voltage. You can plug 11 fans on it (using splitters). It has a 30 watt load limit. You can only plug in a single fan on the "Fan 1" port. You can use a splitter on "Fan 2" thru "Fan 6". The RPM signal of only "Fan 1" is sent back, thus you should only use fans with the same specs on all the fan ports (Fan 1, Fan 2, Fan 6) if you want to keep an accurate RPM indication.


----------



## madmalkav

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *47 Knucklehead*
> 
> The RPM signal of only "Fan 1" is sent back


And that is why I want to know if I can use the "Fan 1" connector with a splitter cable that send RPM signal of one of the fans back. I can't think of a reason for it not to work, but electronics is not my field so that is why I ask.


----------



## 47 Knucklehead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *madmalkav*
> 
> And that is why I want to know if I can use the "Fan 1" connector with a splitter cable that send RPM signal of one of the fans back. I can't think of a reason for it not to work, but electronics is not my field so that is why I ask.


No. If you put a splitter on the "Fan 1" port and put 2 fans on it, then you will not get an accurate RPM reading. That is why Phantek says that their hub is limited to 11 fans. 1 fan on "Fan 1" and 2 fans on "Fan 2" thru "Fan 6". Will it actually spin 12 fans? Maybe, I don't currently have 12 fans sitting around to run that test, so I can't say with 100%.


----------



## madmalkav

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *47 Knucklehead*
> 
> No. If you put a splitter on the "Fan 1" port and put 2 fans on it, then you will not get an accurate RPM reading.


Why so if only one of the fans have that signal wired? I will love to understand why it wouldn't work.


----------



## 47 Knucklehead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *madmalkav*
> 
> Why so if only one of the fans have that signal wired? I will love to understand why it wouldn't work.


If you only have the 2 wires (+V and Ground) then yeah, the fan will spin. Likewise, if you have 1 fan with +V, Ground, and RPM and 1 fan with +V and Ground (and RPM not hooked up), it should work 100% (just so long as the 12 fans don't exceed 30 watts) and since only one RPM line is coming in, the circuit will have no issues at all.


----------



## madmalkav

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *47 Knucklehead*
> 
> If you only have the 2 wires (+V and Ground) then yeah, the fan will spin. Likewise, if you have 1 fan with +V, Ground, and RPM and 1 fan with +V and Ground (and RPM not hooked up), it should work 100% (just so long as the 12 fans don't exceed 30 watts) and since only one RPM line is coming in, the circuit will have no issues at all.


Thanks for the explanation. I currently run two hubs, one have hooked 8 Arctic F12 and one of the Phanteks chassis fans, the other runs 6 Arctic F12 and the other Phanteks chassis fans. For cable length/management issues I can't run two of the Arctics directly to the fan 1 header so is good to know I can do it this way.

Some photos of my WIP Primo. Cable managing is a mess until I install the LEDs and tidy everything up. Also probably some weird tbing as this is my first watercooling project and I bad at planning stuff I have never touched in real life:


----------



## testplsignore

Has there been any update on the new reservoir bracket?

Will the existing one fit an 11in long card like a GTX980 Classified?
I have no idea how you would modify the bracket cleanly...


----------



## MikeSp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *testplsignore*
> 
> Has there been any update on the new reservoir bracket?
> 
> Will the existing one fit an 11in long card like a GTX980 Classified?
> I have no idea how you would modify the bracket cleanly...


It does not appear that an 11 inch long video card like the GTX980 Classified would fit without modifying the bracket to the right (meant to hide wiring and mount a rad reservoir. It is not difficult to remove the bracket with the plastic facing attached and using a Dremel, sabre saw or other kind of metal-cutting saw (and fine metal file to smooth the edges) and fully support the thin metal bracket during cutting so that it does not bend, and cut out an area large enough to allow the installation of a long video card. But -- that would not leave enough room at that location for a rad reservoir. IF you don't mind some wiring showing, the plastic-covered metal bracket can be removed with its four thumb screws from the backside of the case. In the picture, I cut out enough room for both GTX980's (not quite as long as the Classified version)

Mike


----------



## madmalkav

Funny thing: I removed all the fans tahat came with the Primo sans one front -LED version- and one back -non LED version-. If I stop the fans and then start at 2% PWM, LED version will start spinning ok, non LED version will try to start and fail.


----------



## Gil80

Can anyone tell me if I can mount a 60mm diameter tube res on the res bracket when using two 268mm GPU cards?
The GPU's are R9 290 Gigabyte OC Windforce. I'm water cooling them so their air cooling brackets will be removed.
Eyeballing the PCB length, they will fit without dremeling the res bracket, but I'm not sure about 60mm tube diameter.

I'm also using the Asus P8Z77 mobo so I'll have 2 PCI slots gap between the GPU's.

Thanks for the help.


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gil80*
> 
> Can anyone tell me if I can mount a 60mm diameter tube res on the res bracket when using two 268mm GPU cards?
> The GPU's are R9 290 Gigabyte OC Windforce. I'm water cooling them so their air cooling brackets will be removed.
> Eyeballing the PCB length, they will fit without dremeling the res bracket, but I'm not sure about 60mm tube diameter.
> 
> I'm also using the Asus P8Z77 mobo so I'll have 2 PCI slots gap between the GPU's.
> 
> Thanks for the help.


if you are talking about the res bracket that sits on the 5.25" bay, you cannot use it with any gpu longer than 10.5".


----------



## Gil80

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PureBlackFire*
> 
> if you are talking about the res bracket that sits on the 5.25" bay, you cannot use it with any gpu longer than 10.5".


Not sure about that statement.
I placed the res bracket in the case and then tried to install the GPU just for the sake of it. It clearly shows that when you remove the air cooling (and then the GPU length is 268mm which is more than 10.5"), it will fit in place, tightly, but still fit in.


----------



## emsj86

I think you can go above 10.5 but just barely. Would be easier to just go bitspower res. which our 50mm and so your rig won't look crammed


----------



## Gil80

that's what I'm trying to figure out. I'll do the trial later on today and post the results.
I think that I'll stick to my 250/50mm Phobya res because I wanted to replace it to 150/60mm EK x3 res.

I'll remove the air cooling from my GPU and try to install it with the res bracket in place. I'll upload the photos if I succeed in doing so. According to my calculation, I should have 1mm gap between the end of the PCB and the res bracket.


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gil80*
> 
> Not sure about that statement.
> I placed the res bracket in the case and then tried to install the GPU just for the sake of it. It clearly shows that when you remove the air cooling (and then the GPU length is 268mm which is more than 10.5"), it will fit in place, tightly, but still fit in.


268mm is 10.5". anything longer will be a problem. also take into account the clips or whatever that holds the tube res onto the bracket. 60mm is already the limit and the tube obviously will not sit flush against the bracket.


----------



## Gil80

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PureBlackFire*
> 
> 268mm is 10.5". anything longer will be a problem. also take into account the clips or whatever that holds the tube res onto the bracket. 60mm is already the limit and the tube obviously will not sit flush against the bracket.


To be an a-hole, 10.5" is 266.7mm exactly







LOL if what you're saying is right then I have no choice but to stick to the phobiya 50m diameter tube res.


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gil80*
> 
> To be an a-hole, 10.5" is 266.7mm exactly
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> LOL if what you're saying is right then I have no choice but to stick to the phobiya 50m diameter tube res.


alrighty then.


----------



## doyll

268mm is 0;05118 or 3/64ths inchs more than 10.5 inchs. Component sizing isn't aerospace precision. Not like building a piano.







Somebody is likely to







while you are measuring that precisely.


----------



## dallas1990

As of reservoir. What size seems to work best as of clearance. I'm planning on modding the stock bracket so I can reinstall it. My 780ti is 11" my main concern is the diameter of the reservoir.


----------



## shiloh

My reservoir is pretty small (60mm diameter) and it would not fit on the mobo tray between the GPU and drive cage. My GPU is a GTX690, about the same size your 780. I finally mounted the res on the ODD cage with "L" shaped bracket. Like this:


----------



## MrGrievous

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *madmalkav*
> 
> So, you have been using the fan hub at 1% PWM for 9 months without problems at all? If that's the case I will try it.


Well to be exact if I set it to 1% PWM speed in speedfan the rpm its reporting is 300 RPM which is just a tad to slow imop so I bump that up to 5% for a RPM range of 623 as my minimum. At this speed it is very quite even with it 2 feet away from me.

Edit: I should add that I have 4 140 sp fans and 4 120 mp fans with one of the later hooked up the fan 1 hub so its reporting the speed of the 120 mp fan.


----------



## madmalkav

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrGrievous*
> 
> Well to be exact if I set it to 1% PWM speed in speedfan the rpm its reporting is 300 RPM which is just a tad to slow imop so I bump that up to 5% for a RPM range of 623 as my minimum. At this speed it is very quite even with it 2 feet away from me.
> 
> Edit: I should add that I have 4 140 sp fans and 4 120 mp fans with one of the later hooked up the fan 1 hub so its reporting the speed of the 120 mp fan.


Well, as Phanteks didn't reply to my contacts through the web form I wrote them an email -I start to suspect that they web form doesn't work well on Chrome-.

They confirmed that under 20% PWM they can overheat , the lesser the problem the more airflow goes through them. The thing is, were they come placed there is really not much airflow. I have asked them if they can be heatsinked or something like that, while I wait for getting a reply I accept alternative ideas


----------



## Akhenaton

Hi guys, I've a problem with the fan hub of my Enthoo Luxe (the same of the other Enthoo I suppose).
This is the setup:



Everything is connected as instructed, but the fan speed is always high. When I set "silent" from BIOS, rpm are about 1140: when I set "standard" 1160 and when I set "turbo" 1190. An useless difference imho.

Why?

PS:
Noctura - top radiator
Arctic Cooling - bottom radiator


----------



## VulgarDisplay88

What motherboard do you have? Mine did the same until I ran the q-fan control on my Maximus VII Gene. After that it allows me to drop it down and also use the presets.


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Akhenaton*
> 
> Hi guys, I've a problem with the fan hub of my Enthoo Luxe (the same of the other Enthoo I suppose).
> This is the setup:
> 
> 
> 
> Everything is connected as instructed, but the fan speed is always high. When I set "silent" from BIOS, rpm are about 1140: when I set "standard" 1160 and when I set "turbo" 1190. An useless difference imho.
> 
> Why?
> 
> PS:
> Noctura - top radiator
> Arctic Cooling - bottom radiator


mine seems to work properly only *without* that sata power connected to the psu.


----------



## Akhenaton

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VulgarDisplay88*
> 
> What motherboard do you have? Mine did the same until I ran the q-fan control on my Maximus VII Gene. After that it allows me to drop it down and also use the presets.


Asus M5A99FX Pro R2.0
The Q-Fan is already enabled (when I wrote "silent", "standard" and "turbo" I was referring to it







)
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PureBlackFire*
> 
> mine seems to work properly only *without* that sata power connected to the psu.


Already tried without success


----------



## Reaper28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shiloh*
> 
> My reservoir is pretty small (60mm diameter) and it would not fit on the mobo tray between the GPU and drive cage. My GPU is a GTX690, about the same size your 780. I finally mounted the res on the ODD cage with "L" shaped bracket. Like this:


Seeing this makes me a little disappointed, I've got the Luxe and just ordered a Bitspower 150 res which is 60mm thick. Planning on having two 970's might be a problem for me


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Akhenaton*
> 
> Already tried without success


could try to rma the hub. my first one didn't work at all.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Reaper28*
> 
> Seeing this makes me a little disappointed, I've got the Luxe and just ordered a Bitspower 150 res which is 60mm thick. Planning on having two 970's might be a problem for me


as long as you don't get the windforce 970's or you are watercooling them, it'll be no issue. I'm using the bitspower 150 tube res.


----------



## Reaper28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PureBlackFire*
> 
> could try to rma the hub. my first one didn't work at all.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> as long as you don't get the windforce 970's or you are watercooling them, it'll be no issue. I'm using the bitspower 150 tube res.


Plan on getting the 970 FTW's or possibly the Strix, pump will be mounted to res also


----------



## madmalkav

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Akhenaton*
> 
> Hi guys, I've a problem with the fan hub of my Enthoo Luxe (the same of the other Enthoo I suppose).
> This is the setup:
> 
> 
> 
> Everything is connected as instructed, but the fan speed is always high. When I set "silent" from BIOS, rpm are about 1140: when I set "standard" 1160 and when I set "turbo" 1190. An useless difference imho.
> 
> Why?
> 
> PS:
> Noctura - top radiator
> Arctic Cooling - bottom radiator


You have a Phanteks non-PWM fan connected to what seems Arctic F12 PWM PST (PWM sharing port, an Arctic feature to split PWM signals); and that Arctic coolers connected to ports designed for DC regulated fans. Too much PWM to DC to PWM to DC to my taste.

I will try to chain connect the PWM hub and the Arctic fans using that sharing ports and the Phanteks fan directly to the hub. If that doesn't work, I will try the hub without any PWM device connected, as it is not supposed to be used with PWM devices anyway.


----------



## MikeSp

My motherboard is the Asus 99X Deluxe (see sig) -- and I tried what you suggested after Raja had no suggestion except to file a support ticket with Asus which I did -- then tried what you suggested

AND IT WORKED!!!! ALL FANS ARE NOW FUNCTIONING AS THEY SHOULD WITH TOTAL CONTROL!!!!!

I run all fans on manual DC and create custom profiles for various needs depending upon how much heat is generated by the CPU, video cards, etc. -- that way, if a game is played, the fans can be set to the profile where they are turned up and I don't hear them and when doing routine web surfing, emails and even a modest amount of digital darkroom work, the fans are set to a custom profile in which they are quiet and temps remain cool. I had never run Fan Control since I never saw the need and yes, I DO RTFM, but there was nothing about how to use the Fan Extension Card that I could find.

*Your solution WORKED even though mine is a different motherboard --- HAPPY, HAPPY, HAPPY and THANK YOU!!!!*

Mike


----------



## pshootr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PureBlackFire*
> 
> mine seems to work properly only *without* that sata power connected to the psu.


The manual says to only use the SATA power plug when you are connecting the hub to a true PWM four pin connector (Not all 4 pin fan headers are PWM), some use voltage instead of PWM. If connecting to one of these type of headers then the SATA plug should not be used.


----------



## Faster_is_better

Well I took a once over of my Primo and it looks like some of the plastic push mounts on the top panel broke off, but they weren't critical, still like 6 more up there and it isn't loose. I think I see what you mean with their little latches being cheap/easy to break, doesn't look like it would take much to break those.

Now the loop planning begins...


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pshootr*
> 
> The manual says to only use the SATA power plug when you are connecting the hub to a true PWM four pin connector (Not all 4 pin fan headers are PWM), some use voltage instead of PWM. If connecting to one of these type of headers then the SATA plug should not be used.


right. I don't have mine in a true pwm header. I have my pump in there, but I'm likely gonna change that.


----------



## Mark011

i've mounted an Alphacool UT60 420 White edition on the top of my enthoo, i had to disassemble half case for mounting it! lol


----------



## pshootr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mark011*
> 
> i've mounted an Alphacool UT60 420 White edition on the top of my enthoo, i had to disassemble half case for mounting it! lol


Luxe, or Primo?


----------



## Mark011

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pshootr*
> 
> Luxe, or Primo?


Primo ofc! Photos will follow here

http://www.overclock.net/t/1535117/project-prime-enthoo-primo-white-ed


----------



## pshootr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mark011*
> 
> Primo ofc! Photos will follow here
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1535117/project-prime-enthoo-primo-white-ed


Oh yes I looked at that build. Very nice man


----------



## Mark011

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pshootr*
> 
> Oh yes I looked at that build. Very nice man


thank you!


----------



## Akhenaton

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *madmalkav*
> 
> You have a Phanteks non-PWM fan connected to what seems Arctic F12 PWM PST (PWM sharing port, an Arctic feature to split PWM signals); and that Arctic coolers connected to ports designed for DC regulated fans. Too much PWM to DC to PWM to DC to my taste.
> 
> I will try to chain connect the PWM hub and the Arctic fans using that sharing ports and the Phanteks fan directly to the hub. If that doesn't work, I will try the hub without any PWM device connected, as it is not supposed to be used with PWM devices anyway.


I tried it both, but the problem remains.
I also tried to keep the rear Phanteks only (on the white port) but nothing...


----------



## LancerVI

I'm a little late to the party, but wow. Been running my Enthoo Luxe white for a couple weeks now. What a case! Was able to fit quite a bit in there considering it's quite a bit smaller than what I'm used to.

Intel 5820K
Asus X99 Deluxe
Crucial Ballistics 16GB 4x4 16 CL
Koolance 380i CPU Block
2x Koolance Radeon 290 Blocks
Koolance 360 Rad in P/P
Koolance 140 Rad in Push
3 Laing D5 Varios (2x in a Koolance RP-452X2 Bay res and 1x in the lower drive cage bay)

Even with the cage removed, I was able to fit 6 SSD's and 1 HDD for storage. (zip tied a couple SSD's together in one bay)

Glad to be rid of the Obsidian 900D. Never really grew on me and was just a crap build from the get go. Good Riddance.

Definitely a fan of Phanteks now. What a clean case. My only gripe is if you breath on it wrong, it marks up real easy. Got to handle it with kid gloves.


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LancerVI*
> 
> I'm a little late to the party, but wow. Been running my Enthoo Luxe white for a couple weeks now. What a case! Was able to fit quite a bit in there considering it's quite a bit smaller than what I'm used to.
> 
> Intel 5820K
> Asus X99 Deluxe
> Crucial Ballistics 16GB 4x4 16 CL
> Koolance 380i CPU Block
> 2x Koolance Radeon 290 Blocks
> Koolance 380 Rad in P/P
> Koolance 140 Rad in Push
> 3 Laing D5 Varios (2x in a Koolance RP-452X2 Bay res and 1x in the lower drive cage bay)
> 
> Even with the cage removed, I was able to fit 6 SSD's and 1 HDD for storage. (zip tied a couple SSD's together in one bay)
> 
> Glad to be rid of the Obsidian 900D. Never really grew on me and was just a crap build from the get go. Good Riddance.
> 
> Definitely a fan of Phanteks now. What a clean case. My only gripe is if you breath on it wrong, it marks up real easy. Got to handle it with kid gloves.
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


welcome fellow Luxe owner.


----------



## madmalkav

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Akhenaton*
> 
> I tried it both, but the problem remains.
> I also tried to keep the rear Phanteks only (on the white port) but nothing...


Contact Phanteks then, you probably need to RMA it.


----------



## Akhenaton

Done, I hope in a fast reply


----------



## madmalkav

I contacted them using the web form and never got a reply -I start to think there is a problem with Chrome and contact web forms-. When I emailed them I got a really quick reply, but remember the timezone differences.


----------



## Reaper28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PureBlackFire*
> 
> could try to rma the hub. my first one didn't work at all.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> as long as you don't get the windforce 970's or you are watercooling them, it'll be no issue. I'm using the bitspower 150 tube res.


Would you mind posting a few pics of your build?, I'm curious to see your tube routing and the res


----------



## taem

Is JackNaylor still around? Was wondering if you could re-post your mini guide on setting up a fillport on a top mounted 420 rad, or point me to your earlier post where you discussed it. It's a looong thread to try to find it on my own.


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Reaper28*
> 
> Would you mind posting a few pics of your build?, I'm curious to see your tube routing and the res


I posted some a couple of weeks ago: http://www.overclock.net/t/1418637/official-case-phanteks-club-enthoo-primo-enthoo-luxe-enthoo-pro-lovers-owners/7680_40#post_23392954

here is the tube running around the rear side of the case:


http://imgur.com/hN0BR


----------



## Reaper28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PureBlackFire*
> 
> I posted some a couple of weeks ago: http://www.overclock.net/t/1418637/official-case-phanteks-club-enthoo-primo-enthoo-luxe-enthoo-pro-lovers-owners/7680_40#post_23392954
> 
> here is the tube running around the rear side of the case:
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/hN0BR


Thanks, sorry have a lot of my mind. I remember your rig now lol.


----------



## Akhenaton

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *madmalkav*
> 
> I contacted them using the web form and never got a reply -I start to think there is a problem with Chrome and contact web forms-. When I emailed them I got a really quick reply, but remember the timezone differences.


Ok, I will send them an email, thanks


----------



## RAROCK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Looking good!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RAROCK*
> 
> Hi,
> 
> Just rebuilt and upgraded from a Corsair 650D to a Phanteks Enthoo Primo SE Black/Gold. WOW what an amazing difference the build quality and space is unreal.
> 
> My Specs
> 
> Phanteks Enthoo Primo SE Black/Gold
> Msi Mpower mb
> Intel I7 4770K o/c 4ghz
> 16gb Vengance Ram 1600mhz
> 2 x R9 290/290X in Crossfire
> Superflower 1000w Platinum psu fully modular
> Intel 480gb 720 ssd
> intel 180gb 520 ssd
> Corsair H100 Cooler
> using corsair 4 x 120mm af120
> 
> Just waiting for my AX360 xpsc with photon/D5 Combo Reservoir to watercool this baby.
> 
> cpu 1st then when i can afford it the gpu's (also 1st watercool build, so going easy)


So decided to take my time and get some good photos, Enjoy. I do









Also changed my r9 290 for another r9 290x


----------



## madmalkav

Guys, any tricks on installing 5050 RGBW leds inside the case? Recommended placement, recommended ways of connecting them, ...? You know, that little things you wish you knew before the first time you installed them.


----------



## Failuyr

Figured I should post here before contacting Phanteks about it.

So my power button on my Enthoo Primo doesn't appear to be working. My system will post both when using the power on button (Asus X99 Deluxe) and when jumping the power button pins with a screwdriver. I have tried getting the front power button connector to work on both the Asus included front i/o extender and just on the pins directly. I even tried flipping it around for good measure on both the extender and on the motherboard to no avail. Can't seem to get it to work.

Am I doing something wrong? If its not me, is there some sort of easy fix, or should I contact Phanteks?

~This is the first build in the Enthoo so it hasn't been working.


----------



## pstack

Enthoo Primo PWM Hub Problems

Fans:
5 x Phanteks PH-F140SP that come with the chassis (without the rubber corners or sleeved cables).
4 x Phanteks PH-F140SP purchased separately (eventually adding two more).
1 x Thermalright TY-147 PWM (on the Thermalright True Spirit 140 BW rev.a cooler).

Motherboard: Asus Maximus VII Hero

My first Enthoo Primo arrived with some damage to the top cover, the bottom filters, and the side cover. While waiting for it to be replaced by Amazon, I built my system in it to get familiar with the case and board. I plugged the PWM-fan on the cooler into CPU_FAN, the PWM Hub into CPU_OPT, and the 9 system fans into the PWM hub. I did not plug the SATA 12v cable into anything. It worked fine immediately.

The PWM hub on this first system had the 4-pin to CPU_FAN and the SATA 12v input on the same end and the PCB was bigger.

In my replacement Enthoo Primo, the PCB is a good deal smaller, the 4-pin CPU_FAN is on the right side, the SATA 12v input is on the left side, and the manual has an extra added loose-leave page about the PWM hub that my first one did not.

I connected everything the same as before, but all the fans run at full speed (or, at best, all the fans run at full except the cooler fan, which seems to be following the speed profile I've setup in BIOS).

When I run the option in my BIOS to test/profile fans automatically (where you get a progress bar and it fluctuates the fan speeds and learns from them, I guess) it goes through the full range of fan speeds, system-wide.

I have put the cooler fan on CPU_FAN and the hub on CPU_OPT. I have done it the other way around. It doesn't seem to matter. FAN_1 on the hub just has one (not a splitter) of the many PHanteks plugged into it. The others are all mostly done through splitters, except one which is also plugged by itself into another fan header on the hub.

Behavior is the same whether 12v is plugged in or not (loose leaf documentation says if 12v is plugged in while you are plugging the hub into a 4-pin header on the motherboard -- which of course CPU_FAN and CPU_OPT are -- fans will run at full speed).

What in the hell am I doing wrong? It was so simple, before, with the first chassis. I didn't even read the instructions. I just plugged the fans in, plugged the cooler into CPU_OPT, and the hub into CPU_FAN, and it all worked.

PS: I've read many discussions in this thread about the phanteks pwm hub and some other posts around the web. I am doing exactly as they describe, as far as I can tell. That's why I'm posting this -- I literally just took my board out of one case and put it in the other and plugged all the fans back in...

Thank you for your time!

Edit: I just went into the BIOS and noted that if I set the mode to DC, the fans seem to spin down (but of course, never below 50%). If I set them to PWM, they seem to go full speed. Or, at least, do not adjust according to the defined fan profiles. When I look at the fan speeds in BIOS, it also shows that CPU_FAN (the cooler's 4-pin fan) is about 575rpm, while CPU_OPT (the PWM hub) is at about 1170rpm. Of course, it's the same if I switch the headers around (as far as I can tell, both CPU_OPT and CPU_FAN are fully powered PWM-capable connections, so it shouldn't matter which goes into which).

Edit: I removed all fans from the hub. I plugged in ONE fan into FAN_1. I plugged the 4-pin into CPU_FAN. I plugged the cooler fan into CPU_OPT. There did not appear to be any regulation of the fan that was plugged into the hub.


----------



## greg1184

After having to RMA my motherboard and cpu, I finally finished my core build. Eventually I will add a 2nd card and may put it on water... maybe. I may also put led fans on the top.








I am aware that one of the bottom fans is off, it is loose I am going to replace it.


----------



## blahtibla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RAROCK*
> 
> So decided to take my time and get some good photos, Enjoy. I do
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also changed my r9 290 for another r9 290x
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ]


Hey man, nice build. Is that the 170 Photon resservoir? I really want to move my reservoir to the same position, but im afraid it will be too wide and colide with my gpu (have a classified thats wider than standard).


----------



## RAROCK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blahtibla*
> 
> Hey man, nice build. Is that the 170 Photon resservoir? I really want to move my reservoir to the same position, but im afraid it will be too wide and colide with my gpu (have a classified thats wider than standard).


It certainly is, the reservoir has about 1-2mm space between the gpu. any wider than the r9 290x tri oc would be a risk .


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pstack*
> 
> Enthoo Primo PWM Hub Problems
> 
> Fans:
> 5 x Phanteks PH-F140SP that come with the chassis (without the rubber corners or sleeved cables).
> 4 x Phanteks PH-F140SP purchased separately (eventually adding two more).
> 1 x Thermalright TY-147 PWM (on the Thermalright True Spirit 140 BW rev.a cooler).
> 
> Motherboard: Asus Maximus VII Hero
> 
> My first Enthoo Primo arrived with some damage to the top cover, the bottom filters, and the side cover. While waiting for it to be replaced by Amazon, I built my system in it to get familiar with the case and board. I plugged the PWM-fan on the cooler into CPU_FAN, the PWM Hub into CPU_OPT, and the 9 system fans into the PWM hub. I did not plug the SATA 12v cable into anything. It worked fine immediately.....


I had a similar issue with the new version of the fan hub on a couple of ASUS boards. Running fan tuning in BIOS and FanXpert took care of the issue. Also, you may have to manually set the header you are using to PWM in BIOS if it does not automatically recognize it.


----------



## Akhenaton

My Luxe











What do u think?

Next step: obviously sleeving (yellow cables sucks)


----------



## jameschisholm

Just installed the NoiseBlocker eLoop 120mm B12-PS Silent PWM fan onto my Hyper 212+, the noise level difference is amazing, so much quieter.


----------



## pshootr

I have the Luxe and would like to use the top 140mm exhaust fan as an intake on the bottom, then buy 3 more 140mm fans for the top. I would like to get fans which could double as good rad fans in case I ever decide to go the a loop. So which fans would be the best choice? Would the AeroCool DS 140mm be a good choice? Or should I consider another option?

I am thinking about using the top/front fan as intake in order to try and maintain positive pressure for dust control.

1x 200mm front intake
1x 140mm bottom intake
1x 140mm top/front intake
2x 140mm top/rear-center exhaust
1x 140mm rear exhaust

I am air cooling my CPU with the R1 Ultimate.

Also, in order to remove the mounting bracket for the 200mm front fan like shown below, can you do this just by removing screws or do you have to cut it out?


----------



## PureBlackFire

you'd have to cut it off the front panel.


----------



## pshootr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PureBlackFire*
> 
> you'd have to cut it off the front panel.


Ah ok, that is what I thought. But in the picture it is so clean looking, so I thought maybe I was wrong lol.

Thank you.


----------



## Sunreeper

So anyone know if it would be possible to mod an enthoo luxe so that it is reverse atx?


----------



## pstack

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> I had a similar issue with the new version of the fan hub on a couple of ASUS boards. Running fan tuning in BIOS and FanXpert took care of the issue. Also, you may have to manually set the header you are using to PWM in BIOS if it does not automatically recognize it.


Yeah, as I mentioned, I did run the test/profiling thing (could not recall what FanXpert was called at the time!) and the fans changed speed from high to low as it went through the progress bar. And when it finished... they still just ran at full speed. Everything is set to PWM in the fan profile, also.

Really frustrating, because this build was incredibly quiet during normal use when the fans were working!

*Update:*
Okay, so... it seems it is no longer running at full speed after doing yet another calibration. However:

CPU temp is 32-33c.
Profile is set so that at this temp it should be running around 30-35% speed.

20% == 0-20c
30% == 30c
35% == 35c
40% == 40c
50% == 50c
...

BIOS shows that CPU_FAN is running around 1200rpm (this is the Thermalright TY-147 on the cooler). This is a 900-1300rpm fan. Presumably, this should be running at 900rpm, then?

BIOS shows that CPU_OPT is running around 600rpm. This is the hub, running all Phanteks PH-F140SP, which are 1200rpm (well, 1200+250rpm, whatever the hell that is). These should be running around 400rpm, right?

These fans shouldn't be running at these speeds for another 20c.

*Update:*
So, I was finally able to get it to stick to the Manual fan profile (though this was not necessary with the last chassis / PWM hub before replacement -- where silent mode was near silent, etc). Anyway, now manual mode sticks. But I guess I am a bit confused, because this is the profile:

05% == 0-20c
10% == 30c
15% == 45c
...
100% == 70c

Now, RPMs at 32c are CPU_FAN at 875rpm (this is the TY-147 where the minimum is 900rpm) and CPU_TOP is at 595rpm.

This clearly has something to do with the new "baseline" that the fan calibration process set, but I don't quite understand *why* (and definitely don't get why this plus manual mode is needed now, but before the default profiles were just fine).

If anyone has some insight on this, I would be interested in hearing it.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sunreeper*
> 
> So anyone know if it would be possible to mod an enthoo luxe so that it is reverse atx?


I like to think that almost nothing is impossible, but it would be very difficult to pull off seeing as the case lacks the symmetry of most other cases where you see that type of thing done. The same question came up before in this thread with regards to the Primo and I said then, and I'll say it again now, that I _seriously_ doubt we will ever see anyone do a reverse atx mod in the case because of it's design. Just look at it. You just can't take the right side off and bolt it up upside down on the left and then vice versa. If you could do it you would have to modify so much of the case it wouldn't even resemble a Primo or a Luxe or a Pro by the time you were done. In my honest opinion it just wouldn't be worth trying. Not when you could get yourself something like a Switch 810 where you could have it done in a day.


----------



## welshy46

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pshootr*
> 
> I have the Luxe and would like to use the top 140mm exhaust fan as an intake on the bottom, then buy 3 more 140mm fans for the top. I would like to get fans which could double as good rad fans in case I ever decide to go the a loop. So which fans would be the best choice? Would the AeroCool DS 140mm be a good choice? Or should I consider another option?
> 
> I am thinking about using the top/front fan as intake in order to try and maintain positive pressure for dust control.
> 
> 1x 200mm front intake
> 1x 140mm bottom intake
> 1x 140mm top/front intake
> 2x 140mm top/rear-center exhaust
> 1x 140mm rear exhaust
> 
> I am air cooling my CPU with the R1 Ultimate.
> 
> Also, in order to remove the mounting bracket for the 200mm front fan like shown below, can you do this just by removing screws or do you have to cut it out?


The Luxe i have has a single pressed steel front panel. The Luxe in the picture has a cut out for the 200mm fan, or an insert that is screwed in place with 4 screws for use with 120/14mm fans. Has Phanteks updated the case? and if so I hope they remembered to offset the mounting for rads in the roof.


----------



## jameschisholm

http://www.overclockers.co.uk/showproduct.php?prodid=CA-023-PT&groupid=2362&catid=2674 Would this not work in the Luxe because of clearance for the back panel?


----------



## Sunreeper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> I like to think that almost nothing is impossible, but it would be very difficult to pull off seeing as the case lacks the symmetry of most other cases where you see that type of thing done. The same question came up before in this thread with regards to the Primo and I said then, and I'll say it again now, that I _seriously_ doubt we will ever see anyone do a reverse atx mod in the case because of it's design. Just look at it. You just can't take the right side off and bolt it up upside down on the left and then vice versa. If you could do it you would have to modify so much of the case it wouldn't even resemble a Primo or a Luxe or a Pro by the time you were done. In my honest opinion it just wouldn't be worth trying. Not when you could get yourself something like a Switch 810 where you could have it done in a day.


I see, thanks for the help


----------



## Dorito Bandit

Phanteks Enthoo Pro 200mm Front Fan Noise

I've recently noticed a slight knocking noise with the front 200mm stock fan, it's not loud, but very noticeable when it's quiet in my office. Kind of annoying, actually. I bought a replacement fan (exact same as the stock fan) and installed it and am getting the exact same noise. There is nothing hitting against the fan blades at all and the fan is secured in place. It's just making this noise for some reason. Anyone else hearing this on the Pro or any other Phanteks case with a front 200mm fan?

Also, if any of you guys are using a different brand of 200mm fan in your case, which brand and how is it?

Thanks in advance, guys!


----------



## pshootr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dorito Bandit*
> 
> Phanteks Enthoo Pro 200mm Front Fan Noise
> 
> I've recently noticed a slight knocking noise with the front 200mm stock fan, it's not loud, but very noticeable when it's quiet in my office. Kind of annoying, actually. I bought a replacement fan (exact same as the stock fan) and installed it and am getting the exact same noise. There is nothing hitting against the fan blades at all and the fan is secured in place. It's just making this noise for some reason. Anyone else hearing this on the Pro or any other Phanteks case with a front 200mm fan?
> 
> Also, if any of you guys are using a different brand of 200mm fan in your case, which brand and how is it?
> 
> Thanks in advance, guys!


Hard to imagine the new fan would also make the same noise. Perhaps there is another fan making the noise, or perhaps it is an HDD (I hope not) Fans spin so fast that it seems like it would sound more like ticking than knocking if it were a fan..


----------



## benbenkr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pshootr*
> 
> The manual says to only use the SATA power plug when you are connecting the hub to a true PWM four pin connector (Not all 4 pin fan headers are PWM), some use voltage instead of PWM. If connecting to one of these type of headers then the SATA plug should not be used.


Actually... to add to this;

You _DO NOT_ need to have the SATA power connector being connected to your PSU if you aren't running more than the single CPU fan header limit. Different mobos will vary on the power output, but usually a single CPU_fan header will handle at least 20 watts just fine.
I have 4 CM Jetflo and the 2 original Phanteks 140SP fans connected to the hub, but without using the SATA power cable. I run the fans at 7v for what I'd say is a decent noise-performance ratio compromise and it works all fine.


----------



## doyll

What pshootr said.









Try unplugging the 200mm fan and see if the noise goes away.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *benbenkr*
> 
> Actually... to add to this;
> 
> You _DO NOT_ need to have the SATA power connector being connected to your PSU if you aren't running more than the single CPU fan header limit. Different mobos will vary on the power output, but usually a single CPU_fan header will handle at least 20 watts just fine.
> I have 4 CM Jetflo and the 2 original Phanteks 140SP fans connected to the hub, but without using the SATA power cable. I run the fans at 7v for what I'd say is a decent noise-performance ratio compromise and it works all fine.


Most motherboards *DO NOT* have 20 watt fan headers. Most are rated about 12 watt.


----------



## Akhenaton

Guys, is there the uv between the colors of the Phanteks' additional LED strips?


----------



## Durj478

Can a 560mm radiator (60mm thick) in push/pull be installed at the top of Enthoo Primo?


----------



## 47 Knucklehead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Strix*
> 
> Can a 560mm radiator (60mm thick) be installed at the top of Enthoo Primo?


Nope. A 420 (140x3) or 480 (120x4) is all that will fit up there without any mods.

I have a 480 up there in a "push/pull" (ie 8 fans) on an EX480 (35.5mm thick) with no problem. I did lose the top bay in the case though. So you should be able to put a 60mm thick 480 up there in "push" OR "pull" in the same space.

But no way you can put a 560 in there. A 4 bay 140mm radiator is just too big. I'm not even sure you could hack the case up enough to put one in. Even if the case was long enough, you'd lose too much structural integrity with all you'd have to cut, and I don't think the air holes would make it useful.

Or course you can still cram in a lot more radiators if you wish.

I have a 35mm 480 up top and a 60mm 360 down below. I could have put in a 60mm 240 on the side, but with the 480 and 360, it was already way overkill, so I didn't do the 3rd radiator. Beyond that, you could also put an 80mm 360 down below if you really wanted.


----------



## Durj478

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *47 Knucklehead*
> 
> Nope. A 420 (140x3) or 480 (120x4) is all that will fit up there without any mods.
> 
> I have a 480 up there in a "push/pull" (ie 8 fans) on an EX480 (35.5mm thick) with no problem. I did lose the top bay in the case though. So you should be able to put a 60mm thick 480 up there in "push" OR "pull" in the same space.
> 
> But no way you can put a 560 in there. A 4 bay 140mm radiator is just too big. I'm not even sure you could hack the case up enough to put one in. Even if the case was long enough, you'd lose too much structural integrity with all you'd have to cut, and I don't think the air holes would make it useful.
> 
> Or course you can still cram in a lot more radiators if you wish.
> 
> I have a 35mm 480 up top and a 60mm 360 down below. I could have put in a 60mm 240 on the side, but with the 480 and 360, it was already way overkill, so I didn't do the 3rd radiator. Beyond that, you could also put an 80mm 360 down below if you really wanted.


Thanks for this info. I was really considering to get a 560mm radiator but it wouldn't fit in the case. Guess I have to get a 480 + 120 mm radiator and configure it to be as a single 600 then, or just consider a single 480mm radiator.


----------



## Freaxy

Depending on motherboard/ram height you could go for a 60mm thick 480 push pull in the top.
The bottom can even fit a 80mm thick 480 monsta radiator in push pull.


----------



## Dorito Bandit

Phanteks Enthoo Pro 200mm Front Fan Noise
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pshootr*
> 
> Hard to imagine the new fan would also make the same noise. Perhaps there is another fan making the noise, or perhaps it is an HDD (I hope not) Fans spin so fast that it seems like it would sound more like ticking than knocking if it were a fan..


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> What pshootr said.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Try unplugging the 200mm fan and see if the noise goes away.


Yes, I am positively sure it's the 200mm fan. If I turn the fan off with ASUS' Fan Xpert 2 the noise goes away. I also booted up my computer with the fan unplugged and did not hear this noise. Trust me, I made sure of everything before posting about this. Strange for sure.

Thanks, guys, I'll keep fudging with it and see what happens.

By the way, how you been doing, Doyll? Good to see you're still helping others with this thread. You've been very helpful to a lot of folks, me included, and I thank you for that! Also, Phanteks should give you some free goodies! You certainly deserve it, bro!


----------



## skmanu

I absolutely love this Enthoo Luxe case.

I got a Cosmos SE and a an Enthoo Luxe at the same time to see by myself which one is the best (getting tired of biaised reviews...).

I built in both and sent the Cosmos SE back to the shop the same day, lol!

Best cable management ever, plenty of room for upcoming custom loop, clean and neat design, ultra modular, top end manufacturing quality...

Sorry for the pic, no light, f...ed up camera...


----------



## skmanu

This look "a bit" better:


----------



## Dorito Bandit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skmanu*
> 
> This look "a bit" better:


Nice job, skmanu! Enjoy her!


----------



## skmanu

^Thanks!


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dorito Bandit*
> 
> Phanteks Enthoo Pro 200mm Front Fan Noise
> 
> Yes, I am positively sure it's the 200mm fan. If I turn the fan off with ASUS' Fan Xpert 2 the noise goes away. I also booted up my computer with the fan unplugged and did not hear this noise. Trust me, I made sure of everything before posting about this. Strange for sure.
> 
> Thanks, guys, I'll keep fudging with it and see what happens.
> 
> By the way, how you been doing, Doyll? Good to see you're still helping others with this thread. You've been very helpful to a lot of folks, me included, and I thank you for that! Also, Phanteks should give you some free goodies! You certainly deserve it, bro!


Thanks!

I try.

I wish Phanteks would send me some things too. I've repeatedly requested a couple of the PWM controlled fan hubs to test and try to figure out why so many people have trouble using them. But it's been over a year and I've lost count of how many times I've asked with no results. Phanteks USA people are great and have requested Phanteks in Europe send me some, several times, and still nothing from Phanteks European.


----------



## Dorito Bandit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> I try.
> 
> I wish Phanteks would send me some things too. I've repeatedly requested a couple of the PWM controlled fan hubs to test and try to figure out why so many people have trouble using them. But it's been over a year and I've lost count of how many times I've asked with no results. Phanteks USA people are great and have requested Phanteks in Europe send me some, several times, and still nothing from Phanteks European.


I agree about Phanteks USA support! They have been very helpful to me and a few others I know. In fact, they took care of me twice with the 2 minor issues that I had, so I am very grateful to them for that.

Best of luck in getting the hub and hopefully some other goodies as well. You've been very helpful in helping others out with their Phanteks case, not only here, but on their forum as well. Hell, you're all over the net offering help!


----------



## madmalkav

Guys, what do you think about "sandwiching" thermal pad bettwen the fan hub and the backplate to help disipate heat? Thermal pads are not electrical conductive so it shall be ok, right?


----------



## pshootr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *madmalkav*
> 
> Guys, what do you think about "sandwiching" thermal pad bettwen the fan hub and the backplate to help disipate heat? Thermal pads are not electrical conductive so it shall be ok, right?


Na, I would not try and use my fan hub as a heat-sink. I don't think it would be effective at all either. If you want to improve your temps, then just work on better airflow in your case. Maybe put a stock cpu-fan on the rear of your socket. That will actually help with your socket temp and possibly even your core temp.

Edit:
Doing that should not hurt anything, I just don't think it will be effective at all. And even if it did pull heat, you wouldn't really want your fan hub gathering it.


----------



## madmalkav

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pshootr*
> 
> Na, I would not try and use my fan hub as a heat-sink. I don't think it would be effective at all either. If you want to improve your temps, then just work on better airflow in your case. Maybe put a stock cpu-fan on the rear of your socket. That will actually help with your socket temp and possibly even your core temp.
> 
> Edit:
> Doing that should not hurt anything, I just don't think it will be effective at all. And even if it did pull heat, you wouldn't really want your fan hub gathering it.


Well, what I want is to *remove* heat from the fan hub, as Phanteks has confirmed me by email that running the hub at less than 20% pwm can cause overheating issues.


----------



## pshootr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *madmalkav*
> 
> Well, what I want is to *remove* heat from the fan hub, as Phanteks has confirmed me by email that running the hub at less than 20% pwm can cause overheating issues.


Oh I see, silly me lol. Well in that case maybe you have a good idea there. I don't see what harm it could do, as like you said the thermal pad should be non conductive. Although you may want to make sure the pad you choose is indeed non-conductive, I am not sure about that part.


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skmanu*
> 
> I absolutely love this Enthoo Luxe case.
> 
> I got a Cosmos SE and a an Enthoo Luxe at the same time to see by myself which one is the best (getting tired of biaised reviews...).
> 
> I built in both and sent the Cosmos SE back to the shop the same day, lol!
> 
> Best cable management ever, plenty of room for upcoming custom loop, clean and neat design, ultra modular, top end manufacturing quality...
> 
> Sorry for the pic, no light, f...ed up camera...


oh buddy that's not even close the Cosmos SE is a turd. a small mid tower with roll bars and poor design choices every couple of inches. I could have saved you much effort on that one, but it is important to experience things for oneself.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skmanu*
> 
> This look "a bit" better:


yea, nice looking. very clean.


----------



## skmanu

^Thanks PureBlackFire!

To be honest, this is my first "real nice" case: have used a few €40 junk ones, but I went "naked" most of the times (see pic). Until this "luxurious" enlightenment!


----------



## Dry Bonez

hey everyone,im new to this thread and was wondering who in here have those new Phantek MP fans? are thdy even out for purchase yet? I would like to know how good they are for my H220X cooler?


----------



## Durj478

what is the length from the topmost 5.25" drive bay's end to the end of the case?


----------



## skmanu

^Don't know exactly (not at home to check), but here are some infos:

*Luxe:*

Fan/Radiator Support
Front-up to 240mm or 2x 140mm fans only or 200mm fan only(included)
Rear-120mm/140mm (140mm fan included)
Top-up to 360mm(65mm thick) or 420mm(65mm thick) or 200mm(fan only)(140mm fan included)
Bottom-240mm or 140mm
HDD-2x 120mm(fans only)

Clearances
Heat Sink-193mm
Graphics-347mm w/ HDD cages, 472mm w/o cages

*Primo:*

Fan/Radiator Support
Front-up to 240mm (or 2x 140mm fans only)(2x 140mm LED fans included)
Rear-120mm/140mm (140mm fan included)
Top-up to 420mm or 480mm(140mm fan included)
Bottom-up to 280mm or 480mm(140mm fan included)
Side-240mm (w/o cages) or 2x 140mm (fans only)

Clearances
Heat Sink-207mm
Graphics-257mm with bracket, 350mm without


----------



## Durj478

Thanks, that would suffice well, although I am curious about that length. Please do provide me that when you are free.


----------



## skmanu

^Will do.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Strix*
> 
> what is the length from the topmost 5.25" drive bay's end to the end of the case?


Are you talking about the Luxe/Pro or the Primo?

Also, not exactly sure what you mean by "the topmost 5.25" drive bay's end" or "end of the case". There's not really an obvious "end" of the bay. It would probably help to know what it is you are wanting the measurements for.

Here's what I mean. In the Primo ...


----------



## Durj478

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Are you talking about the Luxe/Pro or the Primo?
> 
> Also, not exactly sure what you mean by "the topmost 5.25" drive bay's end" or "end of the case". There's not really an obvious "end" of the bay. It would probably help to know what it is you are wanting the measurements for.
> 
> Here's what I mean. In the Primo ...


That yellow one is what I mean.


----------



## madmalkav

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pshootr*
> 
> Oh I see, silly me lol. Well in that case maybe you have a good idea there. I don't see what harm it could do, as like you said the thermal pad should be non conductive. Although you may want to make sure the pad you choose is indeed non-conductive, I am not sure about that part.


Well, the thermal pads I have here are non conductive. If noone else have nothing to say against the idea during the day, I will probably do it.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *madmalkav*
> 
> Well, the thermal pads I have here are non conductive. If noone else have nothing to say against the idea during the day, I will probably do it.


I can't see it hurting but don't know how much it may help


----------



## Akhenaton

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Akhenaton*
> 
> Guys, is there the uv between the colors of the Phanteks' additional LED strips?


Someone knows?


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Akhenaton*
> 
> Someone knows?


There is a purple color, but it is not UV reactive.


----------



## Akhenaton

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> There is a purple color, but it is not UV reactive.


As I thought, thanks


----------



## welshy46

I've been discofying my Luxe with remote control RGB LED strips from amazon. cost effective modding.


----------



## madmalkav

PC finished, I want to add some LEDs for ambilight effect on the monitor but have the connectors coming.


----------



## Darkness Sakura

Been watching everyone with their builds, they are all definitely coming along nicely - well done everyone. Well I finally finished mine, I hope it will be a great as the others and operate where I'd like it to be...


----------



## madmalkav

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darkness Sakura*
> 
> Been watching everyone with their builds, they are all definitely coming along nicely - well done everyone. Well I finally finished mine, I hope it will be a great as the others and operate where I'd like it to be...
> ]


Personally I won't trust that blue tops on the radiators, if you are using them change them for proper stop plugs.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *madmalkav*
> 
> Personally I won't trust that blue tops on the radiators, if you are using them change them for proper stop plugs.


yeah it would be unfortunate to give your pc a bath over 5 bucks in plugs


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Hmm, unless I just missed something the only image in Darkness Sakura's post I saw any of those blue plugs was the first one before the tubing was installed, and the subsequent images shows a fitting and tube installed in that port.


----------



## Darkness Sakura

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Hmm, unless I just missed something the only image in Darkness Sakura's post I saw any of those blue plugs was the first one before the tubing was installed, and the subsequent images shows a fitting and tube installed in that port.


This would be correct, the post with blue tops were being used as dust plugs until I got the tubing installed. All pictures with tubing fully installed all have nickel or copper fittings attached to them.


----------



## Kruilty

Ordered my Enthoo Pro last night. Should have it in a couple of days, with rest of system coming in as well over the next week. Will be starting unboxing and build progress soon I hope.


----------



## emsj86

. Trying it the led lights in the cpu block and pump top. I do t know what I think about it yet. The pictures don't show how it is all the way in real life , as in person the blinding shine is not there. I think the reason it's meh is because of the pastel. X1 would pop more with the light IMO


----------



## madmalkav

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darkness Sakura*
> 
> This would be correct, the post with blue tops were being used as dust plugs until I got the tubing installed. All pictures with tubing fully installed all have nickel or copper fittings attached to them.


I thought so, but better safe than sorry.


----------



## Darkness Sakura

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *madmalkav*
> 
> I thought so, but better safe than sorry.


Trust me, I don't think I'd want to lose an investment on 3x GTX 980s...


----------



## madmalkav

If anyone wants to change original leds for 5050 rgb leds like @Gunilla95 did, I can confirm waterproof RGBW leds have a little less width than standard ones. I discovered the hard way when I saw my no-solder RGBW connectors are not valid for waterproof strips


----------



## dsmwookie

Can you link to the rgbs? I've been meaning to replace mine.

So I have a 480x60mm radiator here already. I test fitted it in push pull which works. Should I use it up top and grab a 480 monsta for the bottom?

The other two options is of course a 420 up top which has strong appeal and just run the 480x60 in the bottom.

I'm using a micro atx board and I'm wondering if I can fit a 420x60 in the top.

Does anyone know the fpi on the 420 v. 480?


----------



## madmalkav

I bought waterproof RGBW leds from Aliexpress, they are 10mm wide. Cannot assure they are the same Gunilla95 used, just can confirm they are a little less wide than non waterproof RGBW ones.


----------



## LDV617

I've read a lot about this case and it looks like a solid bang for buck. I'm thinking about getting it for a new 2600k rig I'm putting together. Does everyone here unanimously love it? Any specific flaws I should know about before buying? Going to use all air cooling with MAYBE 2x 7950s (currently using 1, but have an extra lying around)


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LDV617*
> 
> I've read a lot about this case and it looks like a solid bang for buck. I'm thinking about getting it for a new 2600k rig I'm putting together. Does everyone here unanimously love it? Any specific flaws I should know about before buying? Going to use all air cooling with MAYBE 2x 7950s (currently using 1, but have an extra lying around)


It would help to mention which case you are asking about, seeing as this club thread encompasses several Phanteks cases, the Enthoo Primo, the Enthoo Pro, and the Enthoo Luxe.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> It would help to mention which case you are asking about, seeing as this club thread encompasses several Phanteks cases, the Enthoo Primo, the Enthoo Pro, and the Enthoo Luxe.


but all of them are great deals


----------



## LDV617

Oh right









Most likely the pro full tower;

http://www.amazon.com/Phanteks-Enthoo-Tower-Chassis-PH-ES614P_WT/dp/B00LW3X1PA/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1423233871&sr=8-8&keywords=phanteks


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LDV617*
> 
> Oh right
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Most likely the pro full tower;
> 
> http://www.amazon.com/Phanteks-Enthoo-Tower-Chassis-PH-ES614P_WT/dp/B00LW3X1PA/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1423233871&sr=8-8&keywords=phanteks


it has some vents along the side of the front panel that are noit filtered but besides that it's fine. can't beat it for the price.


----------



## LDV617

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PureBlackFire*
> 
> it has some vents along the side of the front panel that are noit filtered but besides that it's fine. can't beat it for the price.


I can make my own filters though right? I haven't tried before but have seen it multiple times.

Better airflow than the Zalman z11+ ?

I have it for my current rig and love it, but more airflow wouldn't hurt


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LDV617*
> 
> I can make my own filters though right? I haven't tried before but have seen it multiple times.
> 
> Better airflow than the Zalman z11+ ?
> 
> I have it for my current rig and love it, but more airflow wouldn't hurt


yea the Pro would be better for airflow. it's got more volume (size) and more fan mounting capability and ventillation. I'd change out the stock 200mm fan in front for a couple of 140's.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LDV617*
> 
> I can make my own filters though right? I haven't tried before but have seen it multiple times.
> 
> Better airflow than the Zalman z11+ ?
> 
> I have it for my current rig and love it, but more airflow wouldn't hurt


Yeah im gonna look into this when i get my tax return as well as i think im gonna mod my top panel and extend it up to give space for rads above the chassis.... using acrylic colored sheets build a box above and mount the panel on top....gonna leave quite a bit of room to accomodate up to a monster rad.... for future upgrading that is...thinking about acrylic blocks in the corners to hold the peices and small bead of silicone clear around the edges.. not sure yet though... i like to have money in hand before i decide finally what to do.. helps with options i might not have thought of before due to money constraints


----------



## Durj478

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dsmwookie*
> 
> Can you link to the rgbs? I've been meaning to replace mine.
> 
> So I have a 480x60mm radiator here already. I test fitted it in push pull which works. Should I use it up top and grab a 480 monsta for the bottom?
> 
> The other two options is of course a 420 up top which has strong appeal and just run the 480x60 in the bottom.
> 
> I'm using a micro atx board and I'm wondering if I can fit a 420x60 in the top.
> 
> Does anyone know the fpi on the 420 v. 480?


MONSTAAs are great, although they show their true potential at higher RPM. At medium to low, UT60 & RXs are the best for your pocket.

Anyway, as for 420 vs 480 (since this isn't specificaly a watercooling related thread, I'm going briefly), 420x60 has a tad more surface area and volume than 480x60 or 480x56, but two less fans (if in push/pull, otherwise, one), meaning less noise. I'd go for a 420 on top, and either "split up" or whole 480 on the bottom. And since that 480 fit nicely, any 60mm rad in push/pull will be fine for you.

RX are 13FPI, MONSTAA are 8, and UT60 too, if I'm not wrong.

Didn't get what you mean by linking to the RGB LEDs though.


----------



## Dorito Bandit

Homemade dust filter for the Enthoo Pro

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LDV617*
> 
> *I can make my own filters though right? I haven't tried before but have seen it multiple times.*
> 
> Better airflow than the Zalman z11+ ?
> 
> I have it for my current rig and love it, but more airflow wouldn't hurt


Of course you can make your own dust filters! Do you know how to use a pair of scissors? Can you use them without cutting a finger off? Do you know how to measure?







If so, then have a look at this awesome post with awesome graphics by this most awesome dude. http://www.overclock.net/t/1418637/official-case-phanteks-club-enthoo-primo-enthoo-luxe-enthoo-pro-lovers-owners/5000_100#post_22653187 *TA-DA!* Homemade dust filter for the Enthoo Pro! Isn't that AMAZING!!!









Good luck and post up some pics of what you do.


----------



## LDV617

lol thanks for the info. Bookmarked


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dorito Bandit*
> 
> Homemade dust filter for the Enthoo Pro
> 
> Of course you can make your own dust filters! Do you know how to use a pair of scissors? Can you use them without cutting a finger off? Do you know how to measure?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If so, then have a look at this awesome post with awesome graphics by this most awesome dude. http://www.overclock.net/t/1418637/official-case-phanteks-club-enthoo-primo-enthoo-luxe-enthoo-pro-lovers-owners/5000_100#post_22653187 *TA-DA!* Homemade dust filter for the Enthoo Pro! Isn't that AMAZING!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Good luck and post up some pics of what you do.


I'm going to look and make a removable one that can be cleaned and is still breathable as the front fans pull quite a bit of air through there...I'm thinking screen like the phanteks filters in some u brackets or something similar...


----------



## Jedicake

This may have been asked before, but can this thing be removed? http://i.imgur.com/dekeKCK.jpg


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jedicake*
> 
> This may have been asked before, but can this thing be removed? http://i.imgur.com/dekeKCK.jpg


I think I've seen someone with it removed from their Primo.

edit: would like to know myself. that poart can be removed from the Luxe and Pro easily.


----------



## Malik

Work in progress


----------



## MikeSp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jedicake*
> 
> This may have been asked before, but can this thing be removed? http://i.imgur.com/dekeKCK.jpg


While it is somewhat structural, the upper part of it is physically the side of the 5.25 inch bays -- if you do not have anything in those bays, then there probably is a way to remove it (the lower bays, of course, are totally separate and unattached to that piece of sheet metal)


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Malik*
> 
> Work in progress
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


first miniXL build!


----------



## Roxycon

Sadly not enough builds in this beaut has been posted, but here's my recent build















Custom watercooling to come


----------



## the matty

is there seriously no one using the enthoo pro with SSI-EEB? if there is anyone using that combo could you post a picture or so, needing to get some stuffs measured up for my next build


----------



## Freaxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jedicake*
> 
> This may have been asked before, but can this thing be removed? http://i.imgur.com/dekeKCK.jpg


Yes you can but the bottom part o the 5.25 inch bay will stay in place and I think it's riveted.
This is how it looks (couldn't find a better picture of it):


----------



## Jedicake

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Freaxy*
> 
> Yes you can but the bottom part o the 5.25 inch bay will stay in place and I think it's riveted.
> This is how it looks (couldn't find a better picture of it):


Damn. That's very tempting to do. I would easily do it if I didn't to mount a fan controller in there =(


----------



## Freaxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jedicake*
> 
> Damn. That's very tempting to do. I would easily do it if I didn't to mount a fan controller in there =(


You could also saw the bottom part off up to the bottom of the 5.25 inch bays. Seen some builds with that too.


----------



## POLICE

hi all!

pls help
i wanna buy this house *PHANTEKS Enthoo Primo black*

i have got XFX 850W Pro-Series MODULAR EDITION (P1-850X-XXB9)
asus sabertooth z77 + dark rock pro 3
all cable enough long to connect to motherboard?

for example:
Main 24-pin (55cm) captive
ATX/EPS 4+4-pin (60cm) captive
ATX/EPS 2 8-pin (60cm) modular

or need an extra connector?

sorry for me english


----------



## welshy46

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jedicake*
> 
> This may have been asked before, but can this thing be removed? http://i.imgur.com/dekeKCK.jpg


Yes the whole drive bay unscrews. Make room for biggum radiator.


----------



## taem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *POLICE*
> 
> hi all!
> 
> pls help
> i wanna buy this house *PHANTEKS Enthoo Primo black*
> 
> i have got XFX 850W Pro-Series MODULAR EDITION (P1-850X-XXB9)
> asus sabertooth z77 + dark rock pro 3
> all cable enough long to connect to motherboard?
> 
> for example:
> Main 24-pin (55cm) captive
> ATX/EPS 4+4-pin (60cm) captive
> ATX/EPS 2 8-pin (60cm) modular
> 
> or need an extra connector?
> 
> sorry for me english


Yes the psu cables will reach. No you do not need extenders. I have the same case and had the same psu for a while.


----------



## pshootr

I have the Luxe and would like to use the top 140mm exhaust fan as an intake on the bottom, then buy 3 more 140mm fans for the top. I would like to get fans which could double as good rad fans in case I ever decide to go the a loop. So which fans would be the best choice? Would the AeroCool DS 140mm be a good choice? Or should I consider another option?

Thanks


----------



## Jedicake

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *welshy46*
> 
> Yes the whole drive bay unscrews. Make room for biggum radiator.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *welshy46*
> 
> Yes the whole drive bay unscrews. Make room for biggum radiator.
> 
> 
> 
> K thanks, friend.
> 
> Le sigh.... if only I didn't need a fan controller and nzxt hue up there in the ODD cage
Click to expand...


----------



## pshootr

Wow, great price on these (Fractal Design Silent Series R2 Blackout Edition FD-FAN-SSR2-140) $11.99, but they are only 1000 RPM. I wonder if they will move enough air for my air cooled overclocked rig with an R9-290? I'm thinking about using 3 of them for the top of my Luxe. I like the Aerocool DS, but they are almost double the price.

Are hydraulic bearings any good for a top mount? I read somewhere that certain bearings are only good for a vertical mount.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

At fan speeds of 1100rpm and less all fans are essentially equal in terms of noise / performance. You could use $3 Yate Loons or $30 Noiseblockers or anything in between and it wouldn't matter either way at that speed. It isn't until ~1300rpms or more that good fans start to differentiate themselves from the cheapest of fans.

Example:

http://martinsliquidlab.org/category/fans/
Quote:


> *BEST FAN 300FPM (~1000 RPM)*
> 
> At this point I would call all the fans relatively the same. The Cougars, Noiseblocker, Noctua, GTs, Piranha, are all performing in that 36-39dBA and subjectively hard to tell much difference. This and slower speeds is where it just doesn't make sense to spend a ton of money on fans. Cheaper value fans perform just as well as the expensive ones and the Gentle Typhoons also don't really separate themselves much.


----------



## pshootr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> At fan speeds of 1100rpm and less all fans are essentially equal in terms of noise / performance. You could use $3 Yate Loons or $30 Noiseblockers or anything in between and it wouldn't matter either way at that speed. It isn't until ~1300rpms or more that good fans start to differentiate themselves from the cheapest of fans.
> 
> Example:
> 
> http://martinsliquidlab.org/category/fans/


Thank you very much, I will have a closer look at the link after dinner. +1

I wonder if going past 1000 RPM is really necessary, even with overclocking in mind?


----------



## Duke976

Time to join the club. Better late than never


----------



## fredocini

Hey guys, I tried removing the front panel on my luxe and accidentally took the wire to the left side of the LED in the front with it. Is there any way I'll be able to fix it by striping the wires? I'm so sad now, and I've only had the case for 1 month and a half... I can see that there's four tiny pins where the adhesive used to be. Any suggestions? Has anyone had a similar problem?


----------



## POLICE

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



http://www.overclock.net/t/1418637/official-case-phanteks-club-enthoo-primo-enthoo-luxe-enthoo-pro-lovers-owners/8140#post_23516787



thx for help!
its a good news


----------



## dsmwookie

Has anyone used a 420x60mm in push/pull in the top? A 480x60mm in push pull will fit just fine for me. I was hoping the 420 would as well. I'm using an Asus Gene x79 (Micro Atx) board if that helps.


----------



## welshy46

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jedicake*
> 
> K thanks, friend.
> 
> Le sigh.... if only I didn't need a fan controller and nzxt hue up there in the ODD cage


Need or want sir. You don't need a sperate fan controller with the luxe, it comes with one capable of controlling 11 fans through the BIOS/ fan control program on your motherboard. I have 10 fans controlled through them and Asus' most excellent AI suite. I've also replaced the stock LED's with aftermarket RGB remote controlled LED's to jazz up the aesthetics.

if you're set on using the two 5.25" controllers. you can still fit a 280mm rad in the front with minimal Dremel work, and keep the top two bays free or a 240mm rad will slide in without any modding. along with a 360mm rad in the top you shouldn't have any trouble cooling all but the most power hungry PC.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fredocini*
> 
> Hey guys, I tried removing the front panel on my luxe and accidentally took the wire to the left side of the LED in the front with it. Is there any way I'll be able to fix it by striping the wires? I'm so sad now, and I've only had the case for 1 month and a half... I can see that there's four tiny pins where the adhesive used to be. Any suggestions? Has anyone had a similar problem?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Uh oh!


Sorry, no words of advice how to fix that, but you might want to try Phanteks support and see what if anything they might be able to do for you. If you do keep us posted as to what they say.


----------



## welshy46

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fredocini*
> 
> Hey guys, I tried removing the front panel on my luxe and accidentally took the wire to the left side of the LED in the front with it. Is there any way I'll be able to fix it by striping the wires? I'm so sad now, and I've only had the case for 1 month and a half... I can see that there's four tiny pins where the adhesive used to be. Any suggestions? Has anyone had a similar problem?
> 
> Doh! It might be a little tight to fit/some modding may be required but THIS might work. Only other way would be to resolder the wires back onto the LED strip.


----------



## fredocini

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *welshy46*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *fredocini*
> 
> Hey guys, I tried removing the front panel on my luxe and accidentally took the wire to the left side of the LED in the front with it. Is there any way I'll be able to fix it by striping the wires? I'm so sad now, and I've only had the case for 1 month and a half... I can see that there's four tiny pins where the adhesive used to be. Any suggestions? Has anyone had a similar problem?
> 
> Doh! It might be a little tight to fit/some modding may be required but THIS might work. Only other way would be to resolder the wires back onto the LED strip.
> 
> 
> 
> I was thinking about soldering the wires, I'll give it a try and let you guys know how it goes. Think I should cut the rubber off the tip of the wire?
Click to expand...


----------



## SoulFallen

Trying to buy the Luxe and it's out of stock everywhere that charges the normal retail


----------



## welshy46

@fredocini yeah it's only hot glue to stop you yanking the LED's apart when taking the front off. You might want to put a bit more on when you're done. As @Unicr0nhunter said give phanteks customer support a ring and they might be able to help you out.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Luxe in stock at Frozen CPU…$150 for black, 160 white (same as Newegg).


----------



## SoulFallen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> Luxe in stock at Frozen CPU&#8230;$150 for black, 160 white (same as Newegg).


they want $60 to ship it to me T_T btw I want the black version.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Yeah…that's definitely the issue with them on such items. I suppose the people that buy a case there are buying many other parts too…or to whom $60 is nothing.


----------



## fredocini

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *welshy46*
> 
> @fredocini yeah it's only hot glue to stop you yanking the LED's apart when taking the front off. You might want to put a bit more on when you're done. As @Unicr0nhunter said give phanteks customer support a ring and they might be able to help you out.


Thanks for the reply, I've given Phanteks a call and apparently the front panel can be unscrewed, where a replacement LED strip can be input. I've sent them an email and hopefully they can help me get this figured out... Definitely a "Doh" moment when I removed the front panel.


----------



## Jedicake

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *welshy46*
> 
> Need or want sir. You don't need a sperate fan controller with the luxe, it comes with one capable of controlling 11 fans through the BIOS/ fan control program on your motherboard. I have 10 fans controlled through them and Asus' most excellent AI suite. I've also replaced the stock LED's with aftermarket RGB remote controlled LED's to jazz up the aesthetics.
> 
> if you're set on using the two 5.25" controllers. you can still fit a 280mm rad in the front with minimal Dremel work, and keep the top two bays free or a 240mm rad will slide in without any modding. along with a 360mm rad in the top you shouldn't have any trouble cooling all but the most power hungry PC.


I have an Enthoo Primo, and I'm using 20 fans, which is why I need a fan controller =)

I appreciate the help though

edit: and two 480 rads, so the smaller rads in front aren't an option


----------



## Faster_is_better

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SoulFallen*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> Luxe in stock at Frozen CPU&#8230;$150 for black, 160 white (same as Newegg).
> 
> 
> 
> they want $60 to ship it to me T_T btw I want the black version.
Click to expand...

What i've noticed (at least with the Primo) is that the cases will come in and out of stock regularly on Newegg. I think they must only keep a few on hand, but it usually isn't to long of a wait to get more back in stock. Maybe 2-3 weeks at most if you can wait.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jedicake*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *welshy46*
> 
> Need or want sir. You don't need a sperate fan controller with the luxe, it comes with one capable of controlling 11 fans through the BIOS/ fan control program on your motherboard. I have 10 fans controlled through them and Asus' most excellent AI suite. I've also replaced the stock LED's with aftermarket RGB remote controlled LED's to jazz up the aesthetics.
> 
> if you're set on using the two 5.25" controllers. you can still fit a 280mm rad in the front with minimal Dremel work, and keep the top two bays free or a 240mm rad will slide in without any modding. along with a 360mm rad in the top you shouldn't have any trouble cooling all but the most power hungry PC.
> 
> 
> 
> I have an Enthoo Primo, and I'm using 20 fans, which is why I need a fan controller =)
> 
> I appreciate the help though
> 
> edit: and two 480 rads, so the smaller rads in front aren't an option
Click to expand...

Have any pictures or a build log by chance? I'd like to see your setup


----------



## Jedicake

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Faster_is_better*
> 
> What i've noticed (at least with the Primo) is that the cases will come in and out of stock regularly on Newegg. I think they must only keep a few on hand, but it usually isn't to long of a wait to get more back in stock. Maybe 2-3 weeks at most if you can wait.
> Have any pictures or a build log by chance? I'd like to see your setup


In the process of painting my black Enthoo Primo to white (to this day I still regret not getting a white enthoo primo) also waiting to get Formula VII motherboard and paint that, I will do my best to take as many pictures as I can when I start though


----------



## Trexxit

Might be trading my z87x-oc for a z87 extreme 11/ac, question being ,will it cover up the cable gromets? or will it be just short of them?


----------



## SoulFallen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Faster_is_better*
> 
> What i've noticed (at least with the Primo) is that the cases will come in and out of stock regularly on Newegg. I think they must only keep a few on hand, but it usually isn't to long of a wait to get more back in stock. Maybe 2-3 weeks at most if you can wait.


This is my computer right now in its Lego home



The need for a case is real


----------



## arkansaswoman22

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SoulFallen*
> 
> This is my computer right now in its Lego home
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The need for a case is real


That is cool


----------



## Mark011

I made some custom parts for my Enthoo Primo, what do you think about?













more pics at http://www.overclock.net/t/1535117/project-prime-enthoo-primo-white-ed


----------



## pshootr

Is it better to choose AF fans or SP fans for the Luxe? I want great airflow for overclocking headroom.


----------



## Reaper28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pshootr*
> 
> Is it better to choose AF fans or SP fans for the Luxe? I want great airflow for overclocking headroom.


One thing I have noticed about the SP's is that they do fine pushing through a rad, but once something restrictive is up against the other side of the fans they start to suck (no pun intended). Honestly unless you will be doing anything other than push into a rad/heatsink I would suggest something like a Noctua fan for the intake of the Luxe and AF fans for other intakes or exhaust in the case


----------



## pshootr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Reaper28*
> 
> One thing I have noticed about the SP's is that they do fine pushing through a rad, but once something restrictive is up against the other side of the fans they start to suck (no pun intended). Honestly unless you will be doing anything other than push into a rad/heatsink I would suggest something like a Noctua fan for the intake of the Luxe and AF fans for other intakes or exhaust in the case


So basically good SP fan/fans for the front intake, and AF for the rest of the case?


----------



## Reaper28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pshootr*
> 
> So basically good SP fan/fans for the front intake, and AF for the rest of the case?


I would stay away from the SP's in the case but if you want them then yes the SP's should perform "better" as the intake because the front is restrictive AF's should be fine as exhaust, bottom intake, roof exhaust. I would use SP's on the drive cage though if you plan on having fans there


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *arkansaswoman22*
> 
> That is cool


Figuratively, perhaps not literally.


----------



## welshy46

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fredocini*
> 
> Thanks for the reply, I've given Phanteks a call and apparently the front panel can be unscrewed, where a replacement LED strip can be input. I've sent them an email and hopefully they can help me get this figured out... Definitely a "Doh" moment when I removed the front panel.


The front and top panels are easily taken apart with a cross head screwdriver. Remove all the screws you can see in the back of the panel and then release the three plastic clips and the front panel will come into two pieces. You can then see the led strips. They are only stuck with adhesive tape. Take note of which way round the plastic diffusers go when you split the panel as they will only go one way when you put it back together. Hopefully Phanteks can sort you out with a new strip.


----------



## pshootr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Reaper28*
> 
> I would stay away from the SP's in the case but if you want them then yes the SP's should perform "better" as the intake because the front is restrictive AF's should be fine as exhaust, bottom intake, roof exhaust. I would use SP's on the drive cage though if you plan on having fans there


So your saying you would choose all AF fans. Except for behind the drive cage.


----------



## Reaper28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pshootr*
> 
> So your saying you would choose AF fans for across the board. Except for behind the drive cage.


SP's - Front intake, Drive cage, CPU cooler
AF's - Rear exhaust, bottom intake, top exhaust


----------



## pshootr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Reaper28*
> 
> SP's - Front intake, Drive cage, CPU cooler
> AF's - Rear exhaust, bottom intake, top exhaust


Ah, ok I see. Thanks a lot for your input







+1


----------



## Reaper28

Doing some test fitting in my Luxe









http://i.imgur.com/BBhrnUm.jpg


----------



## wrigleyvillain

lol I am apparently the only pleb here with a Pro (on it's way).


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> lol I am apparently the only pleb here with a Pro (on it's way).


nah quite a few here just the luxe and primo guys post more







I like my pro alot...if I could get primo with pros front panel look id have already bought it


----------



## Faster_is_better

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jedicake*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Faster_is_better*
> 
> What i've noticed (at least with the Primo) is that the cases will come in and out of stock regularly on Newegg. I think they must only keep a few on hand, but it usually isn't to long of a wait to get more back in stock. Maybe 2-3 weeks at most if you can wait.
> Have any pictures or a build log by chance? I'd like to see your setup
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the process of painting my black Enthoo Primo to white (to this day I still regret not getting a white enthoo primo) also waiting to get Formula VII motherboard and paint that, I will do my best to take as many pictures as I can when I start though
Click to expand...

Nice. I'm planning to do 2x 480s as well. Still looking for loop ideas and have to order a few misc things before i start.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SoulFallen*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Faster_is_better*
> 
> What i've noticed (at least with the Primo) is that the cases will come in and out of stock regularly on Newegg. I think they must only keep a few on hand, but it usually isn't to long of a wait to get more back in stock. Maybe 2-3 weeks at most if you can wait.
> 
> 
> 
> This is my computer right now in its Lego home
> 
> 
> 
> The need for a case is real
Click to expand...

lol, just don't overvolt to much for fear of melting the legos!


----------



## SoulFallen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Faster_is_better*
> 
> lol, just don't overvolt to much for fear of melting the legos!


Lol no voltage added and i've only overclocked the integrated graphics for skyrim gotta hold out until the amd 300 series.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Heh I was going to go Amazon due to being a Prime member at present…but now sales tax there. So bought at Newegg and made it here in one day turns out (warehouse in Indianapolis to Chicago).


----------



## shanker

My Evolv. I have a Luxe in the closet waiting for some crazy stuff to come out.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

So a 280mm radiator won't fit up front in the Pro despite 2x140mm fans being 'officially supported'? Not even a thin one like an ST30? I guess I could measure.


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> So a 280mm radiator won't fit up front in the Pro despite 2x140mm fans being 'officially supported'? Not even a thin one like an ST30? I guess I could measure.


there are a few things in the way. this wall being one:



I would have much preferred it be closer to the side panel anyway. also, the indent in the lower part of the motherboard tray eats into space for 280 rads in the bottom still. if the 5.25" bays was 6mm higher there could be enough height for a 280 in front. I don't understand why build cases specifically around 240 rad support in one section but they did.


----------



## welshy46

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PureBlackFire*
> 
> there are a few things in the way. this wall being one:
> 
> 
> 
> I would have much preferred it be closer to the side panel anyway. also, the indent in the lower part of the motherboard tray eats into space for 280 rads in the bottom still. if the 5.25" bays was 6mm higher there could be enough height for a 280 in front. I don't understand why build cases specifically around 240 rad support in one section but they did.


Yeah so near yet so far with 280mm support up front. I got this close with the aid of a Dremel. If you don't need to use the bottom 5.25" bay then it will go in.


----------



## Mark011

what do you think of a clear side cover?


----------



## Fantomau

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mark011*
> 
> what do you think of a clear side cover?


what clear side cover?


----------



## Mark011

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fantomau*
> 
> what clear side cover?


look at the photo -.-


----------



## GOLDDUBBY

Everything that you painted red, you should re-do to grey.


----------



## arkansaswoman22

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mark011*
> 
> look at the photo -.-


Think they was joking...maybe


----------



## Mark011

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GOLDDUBBY*
> 
> Everything that you painted red, you should re-do to grey.


naaa i still want to use Red too, the liquid will be red


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *welshy46*
> 
> Yeah so near yet so far with 280mm support up front. I got this close with the aid of a Dremel. If you don't need to use the bottom 5.25" bay then it will go in.


Ah I see&#8230;slightly too tall (not too wide). Hmm yeah the main reason I wanted to go 280mm up front is that I already have two nice matching Phanteks 140mm LED fans I'd like to use in front. Bummer.


----------



## pshootr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mark011*
> 
> what do you think of a clear side cover?


It would be a little to revealing for my taste, especially being a white theme. But as long as you are happy with it, that is what really matters. I think it is an awesome looking build, but to me the clear window would be "well" to clear









Though, I think it might work better if your lighting was not white. I think red lighting would work much better. Especially with such a clear window. I think if you want to stick with white lighting, then you should consider a smokey window..


----------



## Trexxit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mark011*
> 
> what do you think of a clear side cover?


I agree about it being too clear,but if you want, you should take the 760T approach and paint the bottoms to cover the parts where it meets the chassis, would look a bit more clean , but thats my opinion, it looks great and will look amazing with some red fluid in it. But like what pshootr said, its your build, make sure your happy with it in the end.


----------



## GOLDDUBBY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trexxit*
> 
> I agree about it being too clear,but if you want, you should take the 760T approach and paint the bottoms to cover the parts where it meets the chassis, would look a bit more clean , but thats my opinion, it looks great and will look amazing with some red fluid in it. But like what pshootr said, its your build, make sure your happy with it in the end.


It's a sponsored build









http://www.overclock.net/t/1535117/sponsored-project-prime-enthoo-primo-white-ed/30#post_23526892


----------



## pshootr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GOLDDUBBY*
> 
> It's a sponsored build
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1535117/sponsored-project-prime-enthoo-primo-white-ed/30#post_23526892


Ok fine, but he asked how we thought it would look.


----------



## Mark011

wait! i'm not talking about the external windows, i'm talking about the white plexyglass cover on the side of 5,25 slots, i made a camouflage vynil sticker now, and yes the liquid will be red (aquacomputer double protection red)


----------



## emsj86

Issue with the clear panel on the side would be what exactly our you showing off. The way it is now with the panel you made (is it acrylic and where did you get it) it looks clean


----------



## pshootr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mark011*
> 
> wait! i'm not talking about the external windows, i'm talking about the white plexyglass cover on the side of 5,25 slots, i made a camouflage vynil sticker now, and yes the liquid will be red (aquacomputer double protection red)


Oh hehe. Perhaps you should have been more clear (no pun intended) about what you were asking.







I think the sticker is really cool.









Maybe you can make a side panel that is clear over the sticker, and smoke over the main component area. And some kind of red trim dividing the two windows, and to go around the edge of the window-panel.


----------



## Trexxit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GOLDDUBBY*
> 
> It's a sponsored build
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1535117/sponsored-project-prime-enthoo-primo-white-ed/30#post_23526892


Understandable then, but he still asked







I still think it looks good, but the metal were the pannel and chassis meet is my only complaint really, I think it will look sick with some red liquid, thats coming from a guy who thinks red is way over used lol


----------



## Mark011

this would be the liquid
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trexxit*
> 
> Understandable then, but he still asked
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I still think it looks good, but the metal were the pannel and chassis meet is my only complaint really, I think it will look sick with some red liquid, thats coming from a guy who thinks red is way over used lol


i will use this

http://www.overclockingstation.de/photoplog/images/2497/1_BILD2852.jpg

btw, i'm free to make my design on the build, even if it's a sponsored one


----------



## pshootr

I think I may end up just going with more "Phanteks PH-F140SP" fans. The price is not bad and they even have a rebate now!

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835709023


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mark011*
> 
> this would be the liquid
> i will use this
> 
> http://www.overclockingstation.de/photoplog/images/2497/1_BILD2852.jpg
> 
> btw, i'm free to make my design on the build, even if it's a sponsored one


thats gonna make the grey and white tones pop very well


----------



## SastusBulbas

Recieved my Phanteks Enthoo Mini XL a couple of days ago, will hopefully get time to move my system from a TJ08B-E into this at the weekend.

Planning on some upgrades this year, along these lines, just not yet chosen a new PSU.

4770K overclocked. Watercooled
Asus Z87 Gene VI
8gb of memory but I may move to 4x4gb
Two of the new 390X in crossfire, most likely overclocked. Watercooled.
1 256gb 840 Pro SSD
1 512gb MX100 SSD
1 to 4 HGST 7200rpm 4tb drives (all eventually going in server/nas)
1 BluRay optic read/write drive
3 140mm case fans
8 120mm radiator fans for push/pull depending on radiators
No idea about the pump thinking a D5 or two but have yet to research pumps and reservoirs, though I do like the idea of a combined pump top and res.

2 240mm rads at least, but the Mini XL has plenty of options here, looks like I could run a 360 in top and still have an optic bay, and a 240/280 on the rear while retaining the HDD bays, and later add a 240 in front when I move storage to Nas/Server.

1 CPU and 2 GPU blocks/backplates
LED strip
Phanteks Enthoo Mini XL case
Cablemods cable kit hopefully, depending on PSU.
PSU???


----------



## MrGrievous

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SastusBulbas*
> 
> Recieved my Phanteks Enthoo Mini XL a couple of days ago, will hopefully get time to move my system from a TJ08B-E into this at the weekend.
> 
> Planning on some upgrades this year, along these lines, just not yet chosen a new PSU.
> 
> 4770K overclocked. Watercooled
> Asus Z87 Gene VI
> 8gb of memory but I may move to 4x4gb
> Two of the new 390X in crossfire, most likely overclocked. Watercooled.
> 1 256gb 840 Pro SSD
> 1 512gb MX100 SSD
> 1 to 4 HGST 7200rpm 4tb drives (all eventually going in server/nas)
> 1 BluRay optic read/write drive
> 3 140mm case fans
> 8 120mm radiator fans for push/pull depending on radiators
> No idea about the pump thinking a D5 or two but have yet to research pumps and reservoirs, though I do like the idea of a combined pump top and res.
> 
> 2 240mm rads at least, but the Mini XL has plenty of options here, looks like I could run a 360 in top and still have an optic bay, and a 240/280 on the rear while retaining the HDD bays, and later add a 240 in front when I move storage to Nas/Server.
> 
> 1 CPU and 2 GPU blocks/backplates
> LED strip
> Phanteks Enthoo Mini XL case
> Cablemods cable kit hopefully, depending on PSU.
> PSU???






For the PSU I'd reccommend the EVGA SuperNOVA 850 G2 that got a 9.9/10 on JonnyGURU's review

Edit: Or for that matter any PSU that received a 9.8 rating or higher on JonnyGURU's site.


----------



## Trexxit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mark011*
> 
> this would be the liquid
> i will use this
> 
> http://www.overclockingstation.de/photoplog/images/2497/1_BILD2852.jpg
> 
> btw, i'm free to make my design on the build, even if it's a sponsored one


That will look great in here, can't wait to see the finished product.


----------



## jassilamba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SastusBulbas*
> 
> Recieved my Phanteks Enthoo Mini XL a couple of days ago, will hopefully get time to move my system from a TJ08B-E into this at the weekend.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Planning on some upgrades this year, along these lines, just not yet chosen a new PSU.
> 
> 4770K overclocked. Watercooled
> Asus Z87 Gene VI
> 8gb of memory but I may move to 4x4gb
> Two of the new 390X in crossfire, most likely overclocked. Watercooled.
> 1 256gb 840 Pro SSD
> 1 512gb MX100 SSD
> 1 to 4 HGST 7200rpm 4tb drives (all eventually going in server/nas)
> 1 BluRay optic read/write drive
> 3 140mm case fans
> 8 120mm radiator fans for push/pull depending on radiators
> No idea about the pump thinking a D5 or two but have yet to research pumps and reservoirs, though I do like the idea of a combined pump top and res.
> 
> 2 240mm rads at least, but the Mini XL has plenty of options here, looks like I could run a 360 in top and still have an optic bay, and a 240/280 on the rear while retaining the HDD bays, and later add a 240 in front when I move storage to Nas/Server.
> 
> 1 CPU and 2 GPU blocks/backplates
> LED strip
> Phanteks Enthoo Mini XL case
> Cablemods cable kit hopefully, depending on PSU.
> PSU???


Depending on the 360 Rad you use on the top, you might not have any options to fit a 240 or a 280 rad in the back. If you want to make sure that everything fits as you are thinking, I would suggest going with a 360 radiator that is around 45MM thick. With a rad like the RX 360 from XSPC, you will run into clearance issues on the back.

I just finished my Mini XL build, and will have pics, and a full review out over at the modzoo.com soon.


----------



## GOLDDUBBY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trexxit*
> 
> Understandable then, but he still asked
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I still think it looks good, but the metal were the pannel and chassis meet is my only complaint really, I think it will look sick with some red liquid, thats coming from a guy who thinks red is way over used lol


yup yup, he meant the inner panel that covers the bays. I also thought he meant clear acrylic as side panel







..

*@Mark011* I'm still not completely sold on the red details, but the camo panel came out great !!









I´ve never done an esthetics build..







next rig I build, I will do one!


----------



## wrigleyvillain

I don't suppose any of you fine folks have an _DDC Water Pump Mounting Bracket_ you don't need? Out of stock at MNPC.


----------



## Poisoner

I am sure this has been answered, but can I mount fans on the top side of the case for push/pull configurations? ie, fan/case/rad/fan


----------



## pshootr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Poisoner*
> 
> I am sure this has been answered, but can I mount fans on the top side of the case for push/pull configurations? ie, fan/case/rad/fan


Yes, but it depends on which case and or the thickness of your rad. Not all the cases support push/pull with thick rads. Post more info on your case and rad and some of the water cooling guys can help you.

This is one of the benefits of having your rigs components in your sig.


----------



## Poisoner

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pshootr*
> 
> Yes, but it depends on which case and or the thickness of your rad. Not all the cases support push/pull with thick rads. Post more info on your case and rad and some of the water cooling guys can help you.
> 
> This is one of the benefits of having your rigs components in your sig.


I haven't gotten the case yet but I'm getting the primo.

Sig rig has changed twice since last time I updated it.


----------



## pshootr

I am looking to get a 120mm fan to mount on my HDD cage to help improve my airflow/gpu-cooling and wonder which of these would work better?

The XP is somewhat optimized for static pressure, but not as much as the MP. The XP has more CFM, but I think that would be reduced by such restriction of the cage/drives anyways. So I am not sure which one to pick.









http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835709034

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835709037


----------



## pshootr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Poisoner*
> 
> I haven't gotten the case yet but I'm getting the primo.
> 
> Sig rig has changed twice since last time I updated it.


Oh ya, thats rite I think we had this discussion already lol sorry. Do you have your rad yet?


----------



## pshootr

This may be useful.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1535628/best-radiator-option-for-top-of-enthoo-primo


----------



## SoulFallen

Phanteks support confirmed more enthoo luxes are on the way but with it taking so long... I'm becoming weary


----------



## Loutenr1

Hi guys, it's possible to fit a 420mm long radiator on top of the luxe without removing the 5,25" rack? I would put the fans under the grill, and the radiator under those. Thanks


----------



## MrGrievous

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Loutenr1*
> 
> Hi guys, it's possible to fit a 420mm long radiator on top of the luxe without removing the 5,25" rack? I would put the fans under the grill, and the radiator under those. Thanks


Sure a 420mm rad will fit with no issues with out the need to remove any parts, depending how thick the rad is though you may lose the 1st 5.25 bay.


----------



## LegoFarmer

I have an alpha cool xt45 420mm rad (45mm thick by the name) with an nzxt sentry mix controller in the top bay. It was a close fit, but they do not touch.


----------



## pshootr

I finally ordered some extra case fans







I ended up getting:

3x Phanteks PH-F140XP_BK 140mm PWM Case Fan
1x Phanteks PH-F120XP_BK 120mm PWM Case Fan

1st setup I try will be:

Intake 200mm front
Intake 140mm bottom
Intake 140mm top/front

Exhaust 140mm rear
Exhaust 140mm top/rear
Exhaust 140mm top/center

HDD cage 120mm GPU <

120mm - HDD-cage


----------



## Loutenr1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrGrievous*
> 
> Sure a 420mm rad will fit with no issues with out the need to remove any parts, depending how thick the rad is though you may lose the 1st 5.25 bay.


Ok, so I've to go with a 3x120mm fans in this case. If I want to use a 3x140mm (total length 460mm) should I have to remove 5,25 bay right?


----------



## Loutenr1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LegoFarmer*
> 
> I have an alpha cool xt45 420mm rad (45mm thick by the name) with an nzxt sentry mix controller in the top bay. It was a close fit, but they do not touch.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pshootr*
> 
> I finally ordered some extra case fans
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I ended up getting:
> 
> 3x Phanteks PH-F140XP_BK 140mm PWM Case Fan
> 1x Phanteks PH-F120XP_BK 120mm PWM Case Fan
> 
> 1st setup I try will be:
> 
> Intake 200mm front
> Intake 140mm bottom
> Intake 140mm top/front
> 
> Exhaust 140mm rear
> Exhaust 140mm top/rear
> Exhaust 140mm top/center
> 
> HDD cage 120mm GPU <
> 
> 120mm - HDD-cage


The top/front and top/center will create a cirle airflow


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> The top/front and top/center will create a cirle airflow


Yes it will.....

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pshootr*
> 
> I finally ordered some extra case fans
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I ended up getting:
> 
> 3x Phanteks PH-F140XP_BK 140mm PWM Case Fan
> 1x Phanteks PH-F120XP_BK 120mm PWM Case Fan
> 
> 1st setup I try will be:
> 
> Intake 200mm front
> Intake 140mm bottom
> Intake 140mm top/front
> 
> Exhaust 140mm rear
> Exhaust 140mm top/rear
> Exhaust 140mm top/center
> 
> HDD cage 120mm GPU <
> 
> 120mm - HDD-cage


If your build is as listed in the "Firestarter" tag with only the one GPU, you will likely find better airflow results with two 140 replacing the 200 in the front intake, one 140 on the bottom intake, one 140 rear exhaust and one 140mm top rear exhaust. This will provide excellent intake of cool air, with proper means to get it out of the case and a distinct path for air_flow_, not air_blow_.

Filling every fan location is not always the answer - more is not always better....unless your goal is increasing fan noise. Let your fans work smarter, not harder.


----------



## Poisoner

Has anyone replaced the grommets on these? I want to replace mine with grommets that don't have the middle parts. I would like a grommet that just goes around the metal cut out.


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Poisoner*
> 
> Has anyone replaced the grommets on these? I want to replace mine with grommets that don't have the middle parts. I would like a grommet that just goes around the metal cut out.


you mean u-channel?


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PureBlackFire*
> 
> you mean u-channel?


That would work great....waiting on the government so I can start my mod on the top of my pro......I think it's gonna look nice I decided I want it to be dark smoked acrylic gonna do perhaps a six inch extension and put second res pump up there for filling and bleeding


----------



## Poisoner

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PureBlackFire*
> 
> you mean u-channel?


Yes. I couldn't get a case labs case because I bought so much other stuff. But I love their cable management holes. They're very clean and minimalist.


----------



## SoulFallen

Day 8 of the black enthoo luxe out of stock crisis.


----------



## MrGrievous

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Loutenr1*
> 
> Ok, so I've to go with a 3x120mm fans in this case. If I want to use a 3x140mm (total length 460mm) should I have to remove 5,25 bay right?


Nope the case comes fully supported for 420 radiators up top with no need to remove any of the parts. I have a 420 xt45 in mine and had no trouble installing mine at all; in fact it was really easy since I could remove the top of the frame to the chassis and screw in the rad to it making it super convenient.


----------



## taem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PureBlackFire*
> 
> you mean u-channel?


Tyvm for that link, I can think of several uses for a piece of that.


----------



## pshootr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> The top/front and top/center will create a cirle airflow


Yes and no. My CPU cooler is mounted below the top/center fan, so atleast much of the flow from the top/front fan will have to pass in front of the cooler before it can circle over and up to the top/center fan. In effect the cooler should grab most of this air before it has a chance to be pulled out from the top/center fan (I'm ditching the optical). If necessary, and I don't think it will be, I could create a baffle-plate the block that flow.

As far as exhaust being sucked in to the intake, I have tested this type of config and the air from the intake is in fact cool. You should test this, and you will see what I mean. You will be able to tell by putting your hand over each fan. one side will be warm, and the other side will feel cool.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Yes it will.....
> If your build is as listed in the "Firestarter" tag with only the one GPU, you will likely find better airflow results with two 140 replacing the 200 in the front intake, one 140 on the bottom intake, one 140 rear exhaust and one 140mm top rear exhaust. This will provide excellent intake of cool air, with proper means to get it out of the case and a distinct path for air_flow_, not air_blow_.
> 
> Filling every fan location is not always the answer - more is not always better....unless your goal is increasing fan noise. Let your fans work smarter, not harder.


You make a good point, and I am certainly willing to try this.









Thank you both.


----------



## GOLDDUBBY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> That would work great....waiting on the government so I can start my mod on the top of my pro......I think it's gonna look nice I decided I want it to be dark smoked acrylic gonna do perhaps a six inch extension and put second res pump up there for filling and bleeding


Build log ?!


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GOLDDUBBY*
> 
> Build log ?!


possibly this will be my first real mod so I get to learn a lot...I mean I've cut holes and rigged up things but this time I'm trying to do it properly and make it nice...I might bring you guys on the journey


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pshootr*
> 
> Yes and no. My CPU cooler is mounted below the top/center fan, so atleast much of the flow from the top/front fan will have to pass in front of the cooler before it can circle over and up to the top/center fan. In effect the cooler should grab most of this air before it has a chance to be pulled out from the top/center fan (I'm ditching the optical). If necessary, and I don't think it will be, I could create a baffle-plate the block that flow.
> Thank you both.


Running intake and exhaust fans side by side is a no-no. Just remove the middle fan and use it as a bottom or front intake.

Air flows like water in a stream or pond. The middle fan is just making noise, not improving the flow or cooling. You might find the links about cooling and airflow in my sig of interest.


----------



## pshootr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Running intake and exhaust fans side by side is a no-no. Just remove the middle fan and use it as a bottom or front intake.
> 
> Air flows like water in a stream or pond. The middle fan is just making noise, not improving the flow or cooling. You might find the links about cooling and airflow in my sig of interest.


Sigh. picture the location of my cooler then decide. I know what your saying makes sense theoretically, but in reality it is not quite what it may seem. Just do what I said in the Luxe and do the hand test please.

The fans push air past the turbulence point. That is the whole reason this works. If the fans were going at say 300rpm, then the theoretical effect would be more substantial I think.

I know you have a probe. Put the fans next to each other and then probe the exhaust temp and the intake temp, and tell me how it goes please







.


----------



## synphul

Hey all, new member so go easy on me







I just recently picked up the enthoo pro and was trying to sort out a couple of things like fans and lighting. Originally I was going to go with the af140 quiet edition (x2) on the top as exhaust in addition to the stock 200mm front intake and 140mm stock exhaust. Many places are out of stock on the non led (I think those are the only hydraulic bearing models, the led's seem to have sleeve bearings). Does anyone have experience using the phanteks f140xp or f140sp in the top? Any issues with their ufb bearings running horizontal? (clicking, wobble etc).

I'm going for a black/white theme which is partly why I picked this case. Kind of an understated or conservative look vs lots of colors. Aside from the enthoo luxe which includes the exterior lights and has the option to add phanteks proprietary led strip, how are you guys lighting the interiors? I considered the nzxt hue but they have really wide spacing on the leds and doesn't really seem to give the effect I'm looking for. Something more along the lines of Mark011's post here with an even wash of white light would be great.

Maybe something like the logisys or deepcool ? I'm sure there are different quality of led strips but looks like most of them are using the same 5050 strips. Is there a decent affordable option I'm unaware of, or should I go to the trouble of locating 12v dc power/controller modules, trying to attach it to a molex, getting dumb strips of 5050 and putting it all together? Thanks


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pshootr*
> 
> Sigh. picture the location of my cooler then decide. I know what your saying makes sense theoretically, but in reality it is not quite what it may seem. Just do what I said in the Luxe and do the hand test please.
> 
> The fans push air past the turbulence point. That is the whole reason this works. If the fans were going at say 300rpm, then you would be correct.


I tried to be nice and helpful. All you can do is be a pain and sigh like a .. well whatever. You are making your own bed.








You think you know, but you really have no idea. You "hand test" does nothing .. just like the middle top fan .. except make noise.


----------



## pshootr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> I tried to be nice and helpful. All you can do is be a pain and sigh like a .. well whatever. You are making your own bed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You think you know, but you really have no not. You "hand test" does nothing .. just like the middle top fan .. except make noise.


I am open to your suggestions/input as I know you are very avid at air cooling tests. However I still would like you to post the probe temps please. My intention is to think objectively, not to be a pain. I think your probe will confirm my hand test.

Eventually I will have my own tests to post. The air that comes in from the intake fan is not hot like the air from the exhaust fan I assure you..

If my tests do not come out inclusive I will say so, you don't have to be rude.


----------



## doyll

What probe temps? The air circles .. which has nothing to do with temps. You are being a pain and ignoring the simple fact that higher pressure on outlet side of fan moves toward lower pressure on inlet side of fan.. exhaust (higher pressure) moves toward intake (lower pressure) .. which is exactly what the drawing shows and explains .. and which you do not seem to understand. It is this same principle that causes storms and wind. That's how the highs and lows on a weather map relate to weather.
Anyway, have a good one. I'm done trying to explain.


----------



## pshootr

probe above the exhaust, and then below the intake, you get my point

even if the air is somewhat recurculating, lets look at the temp it goes out and then comes back in pls. I think you will be surprised.


----------



## pshootr

only a small portion is actually recirculating, again pay attention to the position of the cooler.


----------



## pshootr




----------



## benbenkr

The Phanteks SP fans area actually... pretty damn loud, even at only 1300rpm. I don't know why, but the last few days I've been very sensitive to hearing things and at first I thought my Jetflos in the Luxe were the main noise culprit. Took them all out and it's actually the Phanteks SP fans...


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *benbenkr*
> 
> The Phanteks SP fans area actually... pretty damn loud, even at only 1300rpm. I don't know why, but the last few days I've been very sensitive to hearing things and at first I thought my Jetflos in the Luxe were the main noise culprit. Took them all out and it's actually the Phanteks SP fans...


I find the SP fans to be a very good balance of noise and performance. "Only 1300rpm" is a rpm level that most fans sound rather loud to me. Generally 1000-1100rpm noise levels are max I want to hear .. about 35dBA. Did you try the Jetflo fans in place of SP fans?


----------



## benbenkr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> I find the SP fans to be a very good balance of noise and performance. "Only 1300rpm" is a rpm level that most fans sound rather loud to me. Generally 1000-1100rpm noise levels are max I want to hear .. about 35dBA. Did you try the Jetflo fans in place of SP fans?


Well even if I force them down to 1000rpm, there's a hum that I just cannot stand. The Jetflos at 1000rpm doesn't have that 'annoying' hum. Funny when I first got them about 4 months ago, I didn't really notice them.

When both the Jetflos and SP fans are at 1300rpm, the SP fans are definitely louder.
I tested them all individually, as in 3 Jetlos vs 3 Phanteks SPs. Same areas too btw, 2 front and 1 rear.


----------



## Loutenr1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrGrievous*
> 
> Nope the case comes fully supported for 420 radiators up top with no need to remove any of the parts. I have a 420 xt45 in mine and had no trouble installing mine at all; in fact it was really easy since I could remove the top of the frame to the chassis and screw in the rad to it making it super convenient.


Thanks man


----------



## synphul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *benbenkr*
> 
> The Phanteks SP fans area actually... pretty damn loud, even at only 1300rpm..


That's surprising. I don't have access to a ton of fans for comparison, been trying to listen to sound profiles online which only help so much. The phanteks didn't sound much if any louder than the noctuas to me (or maybe it's my hearing lol). My current case is poor for air (hence the enthoo upgrade) and I have a 120mm scythe s-flex that's aging and not the quietest. Have to turn it up full when playing a game or other things that run the cpu up since my current 'intake' is really mid chassis. No other fans, no top exhaust.

I have a fan controller I planned to use with the stock phanteks fans so maybe that will help keep them under control. Still waiting for my replacement side panel to get here, had an odd spot of missing/bubbled paint on the edge. Awesome support from phanteks though so can't complain. Was considering two more sp's for the top but some fans have quirks that cause them to rattle horizontally mounted. I might have to reconsider if they're loud. Not sure how well holding the fan loose will work just to test it (if I plug the 140mm that came with the case into the current case) since I have no top mounts to keep it completely solid/horizontal. I'd rather know now before dumping around $40 in fans.


----------



## taem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *benbenkr*
> 
> The Phanteks SP fans area actually... pretty damn loud, even at only 1300rpm. I don't know why, but the last few days I've been very sensitive to hearing things and at first I thought my Jetflos in the Luxe were the main noise culprit. Took them all out and it's actually the Phanteks SP fans...


Imho every fan is way too loud at 1300rpm. 1000rpm is around where a fan becomes tolerable for me, but even then the noise is noticeable. The quietest 1000rpm spinner I've ever used is the Prolimatech USV 140mm but even that one I run with a reducer. And of course that fan only works as exhaust really.

With the Phanteks SPs, I find they don't pack an advantage over some other fans at 1300rpm. (Though I would say they are just as good, and could not really be described as "pretty dam loud".) But go lower and the Phanteks SPs begin to shine. At 500-750rpm, which is where I like to be, they are, bar none, the best fans I've ever used. I can't even go that low with other fans and get acceptable cooling, but the Phanteks SPs I can run at below 500rpm ramping up to 700-750rpm max. I'm not a tester though, I just look at temp readouts and play it by ear so to speak.


----------



## derredbaron

Does a 420mm Radiator with 45mm thickness and fans (total of 70mm) fit in a Enthoo Pro? Thx


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derredbaron*
> 
> Does a 420mm Radiator with 45mm thickness and fans (total of 70mm) fit in a Enthoo Pro? Thx


I've yet to see anyone be able to fit a 45mm thick rad in the Pro. There's 65mm of room from the top of the case to the top of the mobo, leaving 40mm for a rad and 25mm for fans. I suppose it might work with some mobos out there that might allow it to overhang that top 5mm but there's hardly any offset clearance so you'd have to basically have nothing along the top of the mobo that the rad and fans would interfere with.

Somewhere back in this thread there's posts from DaveLT saying after he couldn't fit his 45mm rad in his Pro he was going to mount the fans on top of the case to make it work. IIRC he was the very first person to post here that he had the case already and was pretty disappointed that a 45mm thick rad wouldn't fit. If he did wind up mounting fans on top I don't recall seeing any pics of it afterward though.

FWIW the Luxe is the same chassis as the Pro but it has a different front and top panel, and it's top panel is taller and has an extra space there for another layer of fans on top under a removable filter which gives you room for up to a 40mm thick rad with fans on top and bottom in push pull or up to a 65mm rad with a layer of fans on top.


----------



## PureBlackFire

a 45mm 360 rad is possible depending on the motherboard. a 420 is pretty much impossible.


----------



## krzysgro

Hi guys

Do you have a trick to hide the interior of the ODD bay in Enthoo Primo so it's covered when one's looking through the window? There's quite ugly backside of the dvd drive visible along with some cable mess (aquaero







, there's no need to ruin the otherwise clean and nice watercooled interior with this. In worst case scenario I' be forced to clean up the cables







but maybe there's some easy to do DIY metal cover or smth like this to fix the problem


----------



## 47 Knucklehead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *krzysgro*
> 
> Hi guys
> 
> Do you have a trick to hide the interior of the ODD bay in Enthoo Primo so it's covered when one's looking through the window? There's quite ugly backside of the dvd drive visible along with some cable mess (aquaero
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , there's no need to ruin the otherwise clean and nice watercooled interior with this. In worst case scenario I' be forced to clean up the cables
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> but maybe there's some easy to do DIY metal cover or smth like this to fix the problem


Clear acrylic sheet, cut to what ever shape you want, then painted on the back side to what ever color your want.

Makes an "insert" to give the inside area of the case a perfectly smooth surface.

Here is the inserts that I did to the motherboard tray and the power supply enclosure. You could easily do the same thing on the back side of the 5.25" bays to hide what ever wires you want. I may very well do that ... depending on how it would effect the airflow from the front.


----------



## synphul

Well I pulled the rear exhaust from the enthoo pro case and plugged it into my fan controller so I could mess with various speeds. My impression is that it's fairly quiet but with some quirks. It's quiet so long as it's vertical (as intake/exhaust) or when facing down horizontal (as if used at top intake). When it's positioned as top exhaust with the weight of the fan hanging on the bearing, it vibrates and hums. Kind of disappointing since I'd planned to get two of these for the top as exhaust. As a reference for the noise (all subjective) I have a space heater with a fairly loud fan behind me about 2ft and my current rear exhaust scythe s-flex 120mm is about 2ft in front of me under my desk. Turned both current exhaust and the phanteks fans to full speed and could still hear the scythe 2ft away over the sound of the phanteks literally in my face. That motor hum/vibration (can be felt 'buzzing' in my hands and would likely transfer through the case) is a bummer when they're upside down. Hope this can help someone else considering top fans for the enthoo cases.


----------



## MrGrievous

I don't notice any vibration transferring from the fans to the case in my set up and I have 8 Phanteks fans in my Luxe.


----------



## synphul

That's good at least, maybe the vibration wouldn't transfer. I know the fans bought separate from phanteks have the rubber dampers on the corners, mine I have hear came with the case and doesn't have those. After doing some further digging it appears the ufb bearing in the phanteks are a proprietary name but basically a sleeve bearing. It's odd, it's not pwm so that's not what I felt. It's a 3pin fan and was connected to a hardware rheostat controller. I've held multiple fans bare handed in various positions and never noticed the vibration like I felt. Soon as I turned it up vertical or facing so it was blowing down with the weight of the fan resting on the motor it disappeared. Flipped it upside down blowing up like top exhaust would be positioned and produced a rapid vibration with a subtle hum from the motor/bearing.

I might have to check the new panel when it gets in and tighten the window mounts some if it's the same as this one. I noticed lightly tapping/bumping the side panel causes a slight rattle from window/case contact. That's what made me think that humming vibration from the fan would transfer and start causing noise. The f140sp sounds good mounted as a back exhaust but think I'm going to keep looking into a couple others for the top. The cm jetflo, redux and cougars are all around the same price. Looks like newegg is still out of the corsair af140 quiet's (other than 3rd party for $60







). At $16-17 they'd be a contender but everywhere else wants at least $24+ for them making noctuas cheaper.


----------



## MrGrievous

Interesting, does the vibration in the motor go away if you apply pressure to the motor hub? I've noticed recently that one of my 120 mp fans I bought creates a vibration kind of noise even securely in place in the case at roughly 47% rpm. Its placed in the bottom of the case right next to the psu in the horizontal position blowing air in. I think the fan may be faulting as none of the other 3 120 mp fans are doing this.


----------



## Mark011

Which version do you prefer?

No 1



No 2



No 3


----------



## emsj86

I like the third but maybe get some sort of marine or army symbol or something like that where the optical bays our. Gaming looks nice just needs something to offset it


----------



## Freaxy

I like 2 the best, with 3 as a close second.


----------



## Mark011

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> I like the third but maybe get some sort of marine or army symbol or something like that where the optical bays our. Gaming looks nice just needs something to offset it


yes i think i will make something for the optical bays, still don't know what, i personally prefer the N. 3, but i want to see what ppl thinks


----------



## PureBlackFire

I like number 3.


----------



## Mark011

this is the n. 3 with the ultimate force logo on the optical bays


----------



## jameschisholm

no.2


----------



## 47 Knucklehead

Number 2 ... with the "Project Prime" logo ... but not the camo on the top.


----------



## emsj86

Number three with the force logo looks good


----------



## taem

So the six built-in 2-pin led plugs, two of which have the front intake LED fans plugged into them -- these can be split to accommodate more 2 pin LEDs right? How many ways would be safe?


----------



## Gohan_Nightwing

Hello Everyone,

I've tried searching this thread to find an answer, but there are waaaay too many posts in here for me to find if there really is one. I know the front panel on the luxe significantly decreases airflow over the pro, but I was wondering is that really the main reason for the temp differences in testing at stock config? I can't seem to find a test where someone has pulled off the front panel on the luxe and compared it to the pro all things remaining the same. It would make sense that they'd be almost identical after the fact, but I'd like to find proof.

Thanks for the help!


----------



## owcraftsman

I like this the best +1 N. 3

Quote:



> Originally Posted by *Mark011*
> 
> this is the n. 3 with the ultimate force logo on the optical bays


----------



## synphul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrGrievous*
> 
> Interesting, does the vibration in the motor go away if you apply pressure to the motor hub? I've noticed recently that one of my 120 mp fans I bought creates a vibration kind of noise even securely in place in the case at roughly 47% rpm. Its placed in the bottom of the case right next to the psu in the horizontal position blowing air in. I think the fan may be faulting as none of the other 3 120 mp fans are doing this.


If your others don't have the same characteristics in the same position then it might be faulty. I only have 1 of the 140sp's to test so I have nothing to compare it to. Although I've read it's common in sleeve bearing fans to run more optimally and last longer mounted vertical as a rear exhaust or front intake.

The noise/vibration didn't change touching the back of the hub, no. Although with the fan turned off and tilting it in different positions I noticed movement in the bearing along the shaft. When it's upside down (fan hanging, exhausting upward) the fan slides away from the hub about an 1/8th of an inch or so. Might account for the odd vibration I'm getting if it's no longer centered on the hub/bearing but running against the rim/bushings.


----------



## synphul

@Mark011 - I like option 3 the best with the logo on the optical door. Just my opinion, but without the logo there's too much white space (ha literally) between the intake cover and top with the camo design. The logo ties it together. Otherwise, my next choice if no logo would be number 1.

Is this the same case/build featured in previous posts with the white lighting inside along the top? I like the wash of light, what'd you use the phanteks led strip or some other? Trying to do something similar for mine but the ph light strips only work with the luxe and mine's the pro so been considering 3rd party led strips. Looks good.


----------



## Mark011

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *synphul*
> 
> @Mark011 - I like option 3 the best with the logo on the optical door. Just my opinion, but without the logo there's too much white space (ha literally) between the intake cover and top with the camo design. The logo ties it together. Otherwise, my next choice if no logo would be number 1.
> 
> Is this the same case/build featured in previous posts with the white lighting inside along the top? I like the wash of light, what'd you use the phanteks led strip or some other? Trying to do something similar for mine but the ph light strips only work with the luxe and mine's the pro so been considering 3rd party led strips. Looks good.


I use 2 led strips, on the top and on the side near the reservoir, i bought them on ebay


----------



## synphul

It's really coming along nice. When I first started looking for lights and realized the phanteks led's were restricted to the luxe, I was looking for something to get that glow you got with the leds. Matter of fact I think I stumbled on your pic through a google image search and thought "yes!". I've been looking at a few different sets of leds trying to find something decent that won't break the bank. I like the smd 5050's, looks like most have tighter spacing (more even 'glow').

Now I just need to find top fans that go with a more black/white/grey theme. Jetflo's may work undervolted (don't want super loud), the 140 that came with my case hums/vibrates horizontally. Thinking I may have to forego uniform fan colors and maybe the grey redux fans will match 'good enough'. Had similar ideas for skinning parts of the case but more along the lines of the psu cover, side of the gpu (to hide the mismatched bright red of an amd card) and maybe the smooth raised panel behind the internal nameplate with dinoc or some other carbon fiber. Since the case is black and motherboard is black (aside from gold vrm sinks), the drp3 cooler is black and silver, maybe light white/grey fans with cf accents and soft white lighting. Hoping mine comes out looking half as good as yours lol.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Why grey urban camo…does your board etc have grey accents? I would do blue were it me.


----------



## Mark011

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> Why grey urban camo&#8230;does your board etc have grey accents? I would do blue were it me.


You Judge http://www.asus.com/Motherboards/SABERTOOTH_Z97_MARK_S/


----------



## wrigleyvillain

lol fair enough (and then some).

Is there anything they haven't put a camo print on these days?


----------



## emsj86

No lol but I think he did a good job nj
Bet 3 looks great and not too much if that makes sense.


----------



## v4rj04nkk4

Hello. has anyone modded yet successfully on Phanteks enthoo Pro, 2x 200mm on top? or easy solution how to do it? Because there is predrilled holes for dual 200mm fans..and sorry if i don't want to scroll 829 pages to findout.. easier just ask


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Damn that would be like a turbine.


----------



## emsj86

It can be done just remove the optical bays. But really is not needed 3 140s will be on par with 2 200mm or at least close


----------



## v4rj04nkk4

But does that thing hold up together on 1 piece if i remove optical bay? Because i did strip that case most of it and problem comes when you remove optical bay, that it is weak and barely holds up, that's why looking someone who has done it or knows how it can be done.. because i don't want to start Dremel up that case..because then i would need to cut 3.5cm room of the "holding pilars"..and reason why i want to go with 2x200mm is, it still has predrilled 200mm fan holes and i got another 200mm Phanteks fan for it..


----------



## Reaper28

For anybody who might be wondering, the Luxe and Pro can hold a Nemesis rad in the bottom (240 of course) without having to remove the HDD side cover



http://i.imgur.com/6QiSGne.jpg


----------



## synphul

I can see the case getting weakened some, the 5.25 bays are part of the structural integrity. Although can be removed since some people do it to put larger rads up front with everything removed. I don't see a way to mount the 200 on top toward the front without either removing the 5.25's or cutting notches out of them. Do you already have one of the 200mm phanteks fans mounted on top and running? If not, you may want to check how they run as a top fan upside down (exhausting) if that's the way you plan to use them. My 140sp vibrated so much in that orientation I didn't even try the 200mm that way. I'm not certain if the issue is just mine, if it's common to phanteks fans, just the 140's or the 200's also since they're the same design. I'm thinking if the 200mm wobble/vibrate as bad as my 140 did, having 2 of them up top without the 5.25 bay keeping the case rigid it would really rattle things badly.


----------



## v4rj04nkk4

I did little more bigger of the predrilled holes and installed first 200mm, was 5mins max.. but other is different story.. anyone got Picture about Enthoo Pro with optical bay removed and stuff? Plan is to get 2x200mm exhaust to that case.. but if this whole thing gonna be Mission], then need to think about case cutting as option.. or just install 140mm...

27.jpg 1111k .jpg file


----------



## Mark011

I got a new pattern, same as Asus Mark S motherboard, lightner and cleaner than before


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

If you just went ahead and made the entire outside of the case camo it would be invisible, like Predator. No one would be able to see it.

Sorry, it's a long-running decades-old joke between many of my family / friends, where we pretend anything in camo is 100% invisible and we tease anyone/everyone about it. Example, if anyone wears a camo hat or pants, we constantly remark over and over our shock at how the top of their head or their legs is/are missing. More recently a friend briefly had a camo case for his iPhone which led to constant 'What are you pretending to play with?" or "Are we playing charades? Oh, I got it! 'Video games! Was I right? O wait. 'Phone! He's pretending he has a phone!"


----------



## Mark011

LOL


----------



## 47 Knucklehead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jassilamba*
> 
> Phanteks officially is not planning an inverted version of the case.
> 
> I started looking into the possibility of inverting this case, and will spend some time with it today to figure out a decent way of doing it without breaking the bank.


I've got one, and that was the first thing I looked at when I got it.

I still remember us doing the ATX inversions on our NZXT Switch 810s 2 years ago.









Sadly, after studying the case for hours, I just couldn't see a way to do it on the Enthoo Primo without some MAJOR fabrication ... to the point where it would just be easier to make a custom case from scratch.


----------



## Poisoner

Well I got my primo today. The box is gigantic.


----------



## pshootr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Poisoner*
> 
> Well I got my primo today. The box is gigantic.


Awesome man, and ya I bet the box is huge! Enjoy


----------



## owcraftsman

I like it better too add a bit lighter logo on the front door and awesomness

Quote:



> Originally Posted by *Mark011*
> 
> I got a new pattern, same as Asus Mark S motherboard, lightner and cleaner than before
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## Faster_is_better

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Poisoner*
> 
> Well I got my primo today. The box is gigantic.


Agreed. I do like how they double boxed them though. The outer box of mine had some big gashes in it.


----------



## Poisoner

My box came to me pretty much perfect. The side panels do feel as if they bow out in the middle though.


----------



## HitJacker

Hi









I research the size of this block into the Enthoo Primo :



I wonder if I can put a hdd rack hot swap, with 200mm depth ?
Thanks !


----------



## Mark011

It's 20cm + / -, you should be able to


----------



## 47 Knucklehead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Faster_is_better*
> 
> Agreed. I do like how they double boxed them though. The outer box of mine had some big gashes in it.


Congratz!

The gashes are because the case is so well constructed and heavy, the FedEx guy can't play "kick the box down the street", so as a result, he gets ticked off and whips out his knife and slashes the box.









BTW, the main thing to check with a new Primo case ... the little plastic locking tab for the front door. That has caused more people headaches because it broke during shipping than anything else.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mark011*
> 
> I got a new pattern, same as Asus Mark S motherboard, lightner and cleaner than before
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


The lighter looks much better.
How about doing the whole case this light camo and painting the vent grills white / light gray?


----------



## Mark011

I think the whole case would be too mutch camo, and i think the black on fan grills give some contrast, but i will see later if would be better to paint grills or not


----------



## doyll

Removing and painting grills would be some work. They may look good black. I was thinking of white / gray with light behind them as accent when wanted and turned off when not.
Lots of different ways to go.


----------



## Reworker

Has anyone else experienced quality issues with the paint finish on the Enthoo Primo? I've recently had two black/red special editions and both had QC issues. The first had several scratches internally on the motherboard tray, including a large chip down to the bare metal which would show even with a motherboard installed.

The second suffers from under spray/over spray, especially on the vertical panel which hides the HDD's. It is hard to see from the attached pictures, but the shade of red is not consistent throughout the inside of the case. Another issue is the rear panel, which should go back on easily, especially with an empty case, is a very tricky fit as the lower thumbscrew hole just doesn't align with the thread in the case back.

I've been reading through this thread regularly, but I don't think I have read any feedback on the Special Edition versions, apart from comments about the reservoir bracket having a larger cut out. On my black/red cases the reservoir bracket has had the same size cut out as the original black case.


----------



## synphul

I can't say for the special editions. I only have the pro, but I did have some quality control issues with the paint on mine as well. A bubbled portion near the flared finger grip area of the windowed side panel. Also noticed some scratches in the paint on the inside of the right side panel that look like they came from the usb 3.0 header cable end rubbing it in transit. Alongside the inner parts where the drive bay side panel (the one with the phanteks logo bolted to it, visible through the smaller window) you can see bare metal and in a few other more obscure places as well. Not faulting them for those things though since it doesn't show, but considering how easily the paint scratched and out of the way areas showing thin spray the paint job seems a bit lower end in some regards. Still an awesome case but compared to the glossy piano black finish on my old antec case, the phanteks paint job is much lower quality. I've been a lot more gentle with this case than others I've worked in just for fear of causing paint scratches. Given the cost of the primo and the custom options for colors I would hope the paint would be thicker/higher quality than my pro.

I will say this, I called them and talked to brian about my side panel. He was really pleasant and asked that I send pics of the damaged paint and my purchase invoice via email. Within 24hrs they processed the request and had a replacement panel on the way to me. Very good customer service, I wouldn't hesitate to contact them regarding any problems. Should be getting it today as a matter of fact, was supposed to be here monday but ups has been mia for 3 days due to bad weather (not phanteks fault).


----------



## wrigleyvillain

^ Good to know. +rep

Speaking of the Pro&#8230;it begins (at the office lol).


----------



## Faster_is_better

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *47 Knucklehead*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Faster_is_better*
> 
> Agreed. I do like how they double boxed them though. The outer box of mine had some big gashes in it.
> 
> 
> 
> Congratz!
> 
> The gashes are because the case is so well constructed and heavy, the FedEx guy can't play "kick the box down the street", so as a result, he gets ticked off and whips out his knife and slashes the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> BTW, the main thing to check with a new Primo case ... the little plastic locking tab for the front door. That has caused more people headaches because it broke during shipping than anything else.
Click to expand...

I've had mine for a while, none of those little clips were broken, but several of the plastic pegs on the top panel broke off, didn't really effect anything since there are like 8 pegs holding it down anyway. When I was inspecting it for the first time I was a bit concerned when I moved a fan and a big plastic chunk fell out then I had to go investigate...

I can definitely see those clips becoming a weak/breaking point since they are so small and just plastic.

Another sore spot for Phanteks case owners, the window. I actually haven't removed the protective plastic from mine yet, but they put it on both sides of the large window so unless the panels come prescratched it shouldn't have any damage...


----------



## synphul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Faster_is_better*
> 
> Another sore spot for Phanteks case owners, the window.


I've heard this as well. Hopefully they can secure the accessories box a little better on future shipments. Mine had a tie around it but had come loose. Thankfully not all the way off, it was still holding it somewhat. Haven't peeled the plastic off my windows either, felt around and checked real good with a light. I think they're fine.
Quote:


> Speaking of the Pro&#8230;it begins


Haha yea, really is a hard case to pass up (any of the phanteks). I'd heard a few people talking about cases and enthoo kept popping up. At first I ignored it, but I think I had it confused with one of the real angular front nzxt's like the phantom I think it is. When I finally checked it out and saw a pic I was thinking now that's a slick case. Especially with the versatility. Came down to the pro or the define r5 but I wanted front facing usb ports.


----------



## Faster_is_better

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *synphul*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Faster_is_better*
> 
> Another sore spot for Phanteks case owners, the window.
> 
> 
> 
> I've heard this as well. Hopefully they can secure the accessories box a little better on future shipments. Mine had a tie around it but had come loose. Thankfully not all the way off, it was still holding it somewhat. Haven't peeled the plastic off my windows either, felt around and checked real good with a light. I think they're fine.
Click to expand...

Was it the accessories box that got most people? They put my accessory box in the PSU slot so it couldn't go anywhere near a window.


----------



## Reaper28

*[/quote]Another sore spot for Phanteks case owners, the window. I actually haven't removed the protective plastic from mine yet, but they put it on both sides of the large window so unless the panels come prescratched it shouldn't have any damage...[/quote]
*
I wish they did on my side panel window, they amount of times I've taken it off I'm surprised it isn't scratched to hell


----------



## Malik

Phanteks Enthoo Mini XL


----------



## Dorito Bandit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Faster_is_better*
> 
> Was it the accessories box that got most people? They put my accessory box in the PSU slot so it couldn't go anywhere near a window.


Yes, my Enthoo Pro window was scratched due to the accessory box having came loose. I contacted Phanteks about it and they quickly responded back and sent me a new window. I've also read around the web of many others having a positive experience with Phanteks' customer support, and for this I will always recommend Phanteks due to their great customer service. I will not hesitate buying another Phanteks product in the future!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Malik*
> 
> Phanteks Enthoo Mini XL
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Man, that looks awesome, bro! Love the red & black color scheme!


----------



## Dorito Bandit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> ^ Good to know. +rep
> 
> Speaking of the Pro&#8230;it begins (at the office lol).


Nice case!







What fan(s) are you going to add to the top? Did you have a problem with the 200mm stock fan or just replacing it?

Can't wait to see the finished build.


----------



## TheGingerKidtm

So, im a new adopter for the Phanteks Entoo Pro, as it was the only case i loved with the hidden hdd cages, hidden power supply, and where the rubber grommet is on powersupply cover so i can run the gpu power through it.

now does anyone know of being able to flip the motherboard tray??


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dorito Bandit*
> 
> Nice case!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What fan(s) are you going to add to the top? Did you have a problem with the 200mm stock fan or just replacing it?
> 
> Can't wait to see the finished build.


Thanks. Those fans are there up front because there is an XT45 240mm radiator behind them (and I like the looks too; general theme will be black and white with some blue accents). I am sure the 200 performs well but I am not on air (and I think it is a little _too_ big aesthetically but that is subjective, of course).

Up top I am using three Phanteks PH-F140SP Blue LED on a EX420 rad and keeping the stock 140mm fan in the rear but slapping a single 140 radiator behind it. Got two GPUs to cool plus my CPU, so...


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jassilamba*
> 
> Just finished my Mini XL Build/Review
> 
> 
> 
> Review - http://themodzoo.com/2015/02/reviews/cases/mid-tower/enthoo-mini-xl-review/
> 
> Feel free to let me know if you have any questions that you would like answered about the case.


Love the build and the case just wish they didn't go with the whole duel system bc I don't like the open space above the mobo of only running one system. Wish the make it for atx bc I really like the case and the idea of side mounted rad. Disappointed they didn't fix my biggest grip of ohanteka which is the window being poor quality


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Malik*
> 
> Phanteks Enthoo Mini XL


Always top notch. Picture skill is op


----------



## Malik

Thank You


----------



## setter

Carried out a little mod to the bottom front panel on mine today.



A phobya rad grill I had spare, slots between the front fascia and the filter holder quite nicely. Hopefully lets a bit more air in. Wanted to get an mnpc tech grill which fits this case. But they're only available in the usa.


----------



## synphul

Malik, assuming that's your work (the min xl)? Very nice, looks great. Just a little bit of deep red like that against the black makes it a real eye catcher. Awesome photo work too.

Just an update, ups finally made it with my replacement side panel for the pro. Packed very well in several layers of bubble wrap and arrived in A+ condition. Placed an order for a couple of noctua redux 140's for the top (hoping the grey in the photos matches pretty close to reality and matches the rest of the case well enough). Also ordered some rgb+w lighting for it and some simcarbon 3d wrap. I know it probably won't look as good as real cf but not sure I'm handy enough to mold actual parts and properly layer real cf fiber with resin and avoid bubbles (no vacuum bag equipment). Vinyl wrap it is lol.


----------



## Poisoner

What is the biggest width of 480 radiator you can fit in the bottom of the Primo? My swifttech rad is a few mm too wide.


----------



## GOLDDUBBY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Always top notch. Picture skill is op


Just wish he had some with a little less contrast so we actually could see some of the components.


----------



## Premise

Hey all. I've done quite a bit of reading through this thread and am wondering if anyone might have some suggestions for a fan setup in the luxe to lower GPU temps. So far what I've got is:

2 - phanteks 140XP front intake
1 - phanteks 140SP bottom intake
1 - phanteks 140SP rear exhaust
1 - phanteks 200SP top exhaust

CPU cooler: phanteks PH-TC14PE
GPU: 970 FTW+ (stock ACX 2.0+ cooler)

Maybe my GPU is already doing pretty good, but it runs as hot as 74C with the ACX cooler at 70-75%, without added voltage.

Any feedback welcome and appreciated









Edit: Should have added that I have the upper drive cage removed and also tried removing the lower one, but it did nothing noticeable temp wise. Another set up I tried was with the 200mm in the front and the 2 140s at the top, but the set up I have now is much better.


----------



## GOLDDUBBY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Premise*
> 
> Hey all. I've done quite a bit of reading through this thread and am wondering if anyone might have some suggestions for a fan setup in the luxe to lower GPU temps. So far what I've got is:
> 
> 2 - phanteks 140XP front intake
> 1 - phanteks 140SP bottom intake
> 1 - phanteks 140SP rear exhaust
> 1 - phanteks 200SP top exhaust
> 
> CPU cooler: phanteks PH-TC14PE
> GPU: 970 FTW+ (stock ACX 2.0+ cooler)
> 
> Maybe my GPU is already doing pretty good, but it runs as hot as 74C with the ACX cooler at 70-75%, without added voltage.
> 
> Any feedback welcome and appreciated
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Edit: Should have added that I have the upper drive cage removed and also tried removing the lower one, but it did nothing noticeable temp wise. Another set up I tried was with the 200mm in the front and the 2 140s at the top, but the set up I have now is much better.


Get watercooling.


----------



## synphul

Hey Premise, I think the hdd cage arrangement on the luxe is the same as the pro. This may be a dead end, but on the side of the top hdd cage there are 4 holes. Maybe it's possible to mount a 120mm fan there? Basically blowing the same direction as the 2x 140mm intakes, just bringing a fan a little closer to the gpu to blow more directly on it. I know you said you removed the cage, but it might be an option if those holes match a 120mm fan. I know it won't fit a 140mm, I tried setting one up against it and the frame of the 140mm won't allow the fan to press flush to the side of the cage (it's just a little too big). Those holes may not match a 120mm fan either and instead may be for mounting brackets for a reservoir or something but figured I'd mention it just in case.


----------



## pshootr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *synphul*
> 
> Hey Premise, I think the hdd cage arrangement on the luxe is the same as the pro. This may be a dead end, but on the side of the top hdd cage there are 4 holes. Maybe it's possible to mount a 120mm fan there? Basically blowing the same direction as the 2x 140mm intakes, just bringing a fan a little closer to the gpu to blow more directly on it. I know you said you removed the cage, but it might be an option if those holes match a 120mm fan. I know it won't fit a 140mm, I tried setting one up against it and the frame of the 140mm won't allow the fan to press flush to the side of the cage (it's just a little too big). Those holes may not match a 120mm fan either and instead may be for mounting brackets for a reservoir or something but figured I'd mention it just in case.


Yes those holes are for a 120mm fan. And yes it is a good idea to mount one there to push intake air towards the GPU/CPU area.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Premise*
> 
> Hey all. I've done quite a bit of reading through this thread and am wondering if anyone might have some suggestions for a fan setup in the luxe to lower GPU temps. So far what I've got is:
> 
> 2 - phanteks 140XP front intake
> 1 - phanteks 140SP bottom intake
> 1 - phanteks 140SP rear exhaust
> 1 - phanteks 200SP top exhaust
> 
> CPU cooler: phanteks PH-TC14PE
> GPU: 970 FTW+ (stock ACX 2.0+ cooler)
> 
> Maybe my GPU is already doing pretty good, but it runs as hot as 74C with the ACX cooler at 70-75%, without added voltage.
> 
> Any feedback welcome and appreciated
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Edit: Should have added that I have the upper drive cage removed and also tried removing the lower one, but it did nothing noticeable temp wise. Another set up I tried was with the 200mm in the front and the 2 140s at the top, but the set up I have now is much better.


That is a fairly normal temp in a good environment from what I have seen reported about that card. You definitely have the optimum fan setup for the Luxe, so no worries there.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GOLDDUBBY*
> 
> Get watercooling.


That's an option, but a seriously expensive one. EK just released a block for the card. With a backplate and Swiftech MCR140-X you are probably looking at ~$250. Given that the card isn't overheating, or even running close to thermal limits, it probably isn't a worthwhile investment.


----------



## pshootr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> That's an option, but a seriously expensive one. EK just released a block for the card. With a backplate and Swiftech MCR140-X you are probably looking at ~$250. Given that the card isn't overheating, or even running close to thermal limits, it probably isn't a worthwhile investment.


^^ What he said. $250.00 is nearly enough to buy a second card


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Premise*
> 
> Hey all. I've done quite a bit of reading through this thread and am wondering if anyone might have some suggestions for a fan setup in the luxe to lower GPU temps. So far what I've got is:
> 
> 2 - phanteks 140XP front intake
> 1 - phanteks 140SP bottom intake
> 1 - phanteks 140SP rear exhaust
> 1 - phanteks 200SP top exhaust
> 
> CPU cooler: phanteks PH-TC14PE
> GPU: 970 FTW+ (stock ACX 2.0+ cooler)
> 
> Maybe my GPU is already doing pretty good, but it runs as hot as 74C with the ACX cooler at 70-75%, without added voltage.
> 
> Any feedback welcome and appreciated
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Edit: Should have added that I have the upper drive cage removed and also tried removing the lower one, but it did nothing noticeable temp wise. Another set up I tried was with the 200mm in the front and the 2 140s at the top, but the set up I have now is much better.


74c with 70%+ fan speed. you must live in a hot climate.


----------



## pshootr

Moving my GPU to the 3rd slot and using a 140mm bottom intake fan, took about 4C off of GPU load temp.

My folding temp for the GPU is 65C-66C now, +69mv (1150/1500) . It used to be around 70C

Edit:

I also added a 120mm fan to the HDD cage.


----------



## Fantomau

i have 5 used white/red blade 140 phanteks for sale - http://www.ebay.com/itm/161601050853?ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1555.l2649


----------



## Premise

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *synphul*
> 
> Hey Premise, I think the hdd cage arrangement on the luxe is the same as the pro. This may be a dead end, but on the side of the top hdd cage there are 4 holes. Maybe it's possible to mount a 120mm fan there? Basically blowing the same direction as the 2x 140mm intakes, just bringing a fan a little closer to the gpu to blow more directly on it. I know you said you removed the cage, but it might be an option if those holes match a 120mm fan. I know it won't fit a 140mm, I tried setting one up against it and the frame of the 140mm won't allow the fan to press flush to the side of the cage (it's just a little too big). Those holes may not match a 120mm fan either and instead may be for mounting brackets for a reservoir or something but figured I'd mention it just in case.


I think I'm leaning toward getting a 120mm fan and seeing what that does, have also thought about removing the bottom 140mm intake and somehow ghetto rigging it above the bottom drive cage.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> That is a fairly normal temp in a good environment from what I have seen reported about that card. You definitely have the optimum fan setup for the Luxe, so no worries there.
> 
> That's an option, but a seriously expensive one. EK just released a block for the card. With a backplate and Swiftech MCR140-X you are probably looking at ~$250. Given that the card isn't overheating, or even running close to thermal limits, it probably isn't a worthwhile investment.


I'm thinking the higher temps are as a result of how hot it is in my home with the heat being cranked up







on top of my card having a low ASIC of 63.9% and pushing pretty high voltage right out of the box.

And to the watercooling idea, yeah that's quite an expense. I'd consider it an option if I had the extra cash lol.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PureBlackFire*
> 
> 74c with 70%+ fan speed. you must live in a hot climate.


It is definitely hot here, and DRY!

Edit: GPU only reaches 74C in the most taxing of game scenarios. For example: Parts of the CoD: AW campaign with 4x super sampling. Most of the time it stays at 65-67C under load. So it's a little better then I originally made it out to be








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pshootr*
> 
> Moving my GPU to the 3rd slot and using a 140mm bottom intake fan, took about 4C off of load temp.
> 
> My folding temp for the GPU is 65C-66C now, +69mv (1150/1500) . It used to be around 70C
> 
> Edit:
> 
> I also added a 120mm fan to the HDD cage.


Those are good results







So do you have the 120mm fan on the bottom or top drive cage?


----------



## pshootr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Premise*
> 
> Those are good results
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So do you have the 120mm fan on the bottom or top drive cage?


I have the bottom cage removed, so the 120mm is mounted on the top cage. It sits in front of the bottom portion of my CPU cooler, so some air pushes in front of the CPU cooler, and some air from the lower portion of the 120 pushes below the CPU cooler and above the GPU, and across the south-bridge.

My motherboard supports 16x bandwidth on PCIE slots 1 and 3 as long as there is only a single GPU installed. If I ever go to crossfire, then I will have to use the top slot again (slot 1).


----------



## Premise

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pshootr*
> 
> I have the bottom cage removed, so the 120mm is mounted on the top cage. It sits in front of the bottom portion of my CPU cooler, so some air pushes in front of the CPU cooler, and some air from the lower portion of the 120 pushes below the CPU cooler and above the GPU, and across the south-bridge.
> 
> My motherboard supports 16x bandwidth on PCIE slots 1 and 3 as long as there is only a single GPU installed. If I ever go to crossfire, then I will have to use the top slot again (slot 1).


Ah okay, sounds like a nice setup. What other fans have you got in your case besides the bottom intake and the 120mm?


----------



## pshootr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Premise*
> 
> Ah okay, sounds like a nice setup. What other fans have you got in your case besides the bottom intake and the 120mm?


Intake:
200mm Front (considering 2x 140mm)
140mm Bottom (considering x2)

Exhaust:
140mm Rear
140mm x3 Top


----------



## Premise

If you were to change you're fan configuration at all I'm betting replacing the front 200mm intake with 2 140s would decrease temps without a doubt.

At least for me after switching the 2 140s from top exhausts to front intakes both CPU and GPU temps decreased by 2 or 3C..which may or may not be worth the price of 2 fans and more noise.


----------



## pshootr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Premise*
> 
> If you were to change you're fan configuration at all I'm betting replacing the front 200mm intake with 2 140s would decrease temps without a doubt.
> 
> At least for me after switching the 2 140s from top exhausts to front intakes both CPU and GPU temps decreased by 2 or 3C..which may or may not be worth the price of 2 fans and more noise.


I am thinking about moving the top-front fan to the bottom so there would be 140mm x2 for bottom intake.

And/or possibly try moving the 200mm to the top for exhaust, and having 140mm x2 in the front as intake like you said.


----------



## Premise

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pshootr*
> 
> I am thinking about moving the top-front fan to the bottom so there would be 140mm x2 for bottom intake.
> 
> And/or possibly try moving the 200mm to the top for exhaust, and having 140mm x2 in the front as intake like you said.


Might as well experiment some







. I'm about to order a couple 140s for the top of my case and a 120 for the top drive cage, but I'm not sure if I should just order a 120 for the drive cage and see how that does for the GPU since my CPU runs cool. I'm also curious how much of a difference having 1 vs. 2 bottom intakes would make.


----------



## pshootr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Premise*
> 
> Might as well experiment some
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . I'm about to order a couple 140s for the top of my case and a 120 for the top drive cage, but I'm not sure if I should just order a 120 for the drive cage and see how that does for the GPU since my CPU runs cool. I'm also curious how much of a difference having 1 vs. 2 bottom intakes would make.


Ya, I am going to try different configurations for sure. I just received/installed my new/extra fans yesterday, so I figured the first config should be standard. I have ordered some sensor probes, fortunately my MB has some 2 pin ports for the probes. So I will be able to place one in front of the CPU cooler, and one in front of the front intake to compare the two temps. I will also be able to place one on/around the VRM set as there are 3x Opt. sensor ports.

Edit:

Since I have already spent like $64.00 on fans, I might as well buy one more 140mm for the bottom intake to test with this config hehe. Kind of ridiculous to spend so much on fans for just a little better cooling, but I guess that's what we do here on OCN


----------



## pshootr

Deleted.


----------



## Premise

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pshootr*
> 
> Ya, I am going to try different configurations for sure. I just received/installed my new/extra fans yesterday, so I figured the first config should be standard. I have ordered some sensor probes, fortunately my MB has some 2 pin ports for the probes. So I will be able to place one in front of the CPU cooler, and one in front of the front intake to compare the two temps. I will also be able to place one on/around the VRM set as there are 3x Opt. sensor ports.
> 
> Edit:
> 
> Since I have already spent like $64.00 on fans, I might as well buy one more 140mm for the bottom intake to test with this config hehe. Kind of ridiculous to spend so much on fans for just a little better cooling, but I guess that's what we do here on OCN


Sounds like you're prepared to find the best possible air setup for this case







.

On a sidenote I was just looking at fans and found that the Phanteks PH-F140HP apparently has 120mm mounting holes. I wonder if this or the PH-F120XP would do better on the drive cage. Maybe the more focused airflow of the 120.

Edit: just removed one the PH-F140HPs from my CPU cooler and lined up the holes with the drive cage. It looks like while the holes do line up, the "frame" is too wide so the cage wouldn't be able to be pushed in all the way.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Well my refund was finally approved but of course for some reason it takes 3 to 5 days for them to simply do a transfer i could achieve in about 30 seconds... but w/e anyhow i will be starting my mod of my case soon... but hopefully it turns out ok and im considering creating a build log for it... looking to extend the top of my case by building an acrylic box to hold the extra water cooling i want to add including the res with second pump for fill/bleed purposing...looking to use the exsisting top and rewire the switch etc...gonna try and make it sort of modular with slots in the top simular to what the case already has only with more options for mounting...so many ideas floating around in here


----------



## benbenkr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Premise*
> 
> Sounds like you're prepared to find the best possible air setup for this case
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> On a sidenote I was just looking at fans and found that the Phanteks PH-F140HP apparently has 120mm mounting holes. I wonder if this or the PH-F120XP would do better on the drive cage. Maybe the more focused airflow of the 120.
> 
> *Edit: just removed one the PH-F140HPs from my CPU cooler and lined up the holes with the drive cage. It looks like while the holes do line up, the "frame" is too wide so the cage wouldn't be able to be pushed in all the way.*


You know, this may sound extremely ghetto.... but I electrical taped a SP140 to the HDD cage, all around. Problem solved.
Resonance from the fan vibration? None.

Keep it simple.

I'm getting 73c max on my MSI 970 Gaming, 71c on the Golden, SLI'd. Both are running at 1.237v, 1519/7800 OC settings.

Oh and I have no bottom intake fan either, because I quite like the PSU cover.
And yes, I live in a hot country just like you (Malaysia, so 37-40c during the day).


----------



## Premise

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *benbenkr*
> 
> You know, this may sound extremely ghetto.... but I electrical taped a SP140 to the HDD cage, all around. Problem solved.
> Resonance from the fan vibration? None.
> 
> Keep it simple.
> 
> I'm getting 73c max on my MSI 970 Gaming, 71c on the Golden, SLI'd. Both are running at 1.237v, 1519/7800 OC settings.
> 
> Oh and I have no bottom intake fan either, because I quite like the PSU cover.
> And yes, I live in a hot country just like you (Malaysia, so 37-40c during the day).


That does sound ghetto, but awesome none the less XD Those are great SLI temps for air. I like the PSU cover too, was sad to take it off, but without a fan on the drive cages it really made a difference to have a bottom intake.


----------



## Spork13

I have the pro, with a 4790k (hot), a R9 280 (hotter) and a R9 280x (hottest!)
All HDD cages removed, helps a bit.
200mm exchanged for 2 x 140mm helps a bit more.
140mm added front bottom - helps a tiny bit.
140mm attached to front of PSU cover, blowing back over and between GPU's - helps heaps. Dropped close to 15c off top GPU.

I mounted the 200mm top / back for exhaust, but it sticks and needs manual starting, which I don't bother doing. It makes no real difference to CPU or GPU temps anyway. (It's on a LNA, as for some reason my MB wanted to spin both fans on that partuicular header %100 speed %100 of the time.)

TLDR - put a fan on front of PSU shroud (mod a bracket - or like me - use double sided tape...) for a great improvement in GPU cooling, esp. with multiple cards.


----------



## benbenkr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Premise*
> 
> That does sound ghetto, but awesome none the less XD Those are great SLI temps for air. I like the PSU cover too, was sad to take it off, but without a fan on the drive cages it really made a difference to have a bottom intake.


Yeah, just use black tape so it's actually hard to see once the side panel is on (that's one good use of smokey side panels now!).

I think it's the best compromise really. I'm going to have to remove the PSU cover eventually when I get a 240 rad for the GPU. But for now, a fan taped to the HDD cage blowing air directly into the card seems to be good enough. Without the fan, the top and bottom card will reach 76c and 73c respectively (my throttle limit is set to 82c).


----------



## madmalkav

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Poisoner*
> 
> What is the biggest width of 480 radiator you can fit in the bottom of the Primo? My swifttech rad is a few mm too wide.


My Phobya Gchanger V2 barely enters, so you can use it as reference.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *madmalkav*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Poisoner*
> 
> What is the biggest width of 480 radiator you can fit in the bottom of the Primo? My swifttech rad is a few mm too wide.
> 
> 
> 
> My Phobya Gchanger V2 barely enters, so you can use it as reference.
Click to expand...

Yeah Phobya and Alphacool are essentially the same company operating under the Aquatuning umbrella. Their 120mm-series rads are 124mm wide and just barely fit between the space between the PSU shroud and the panel with the Phanteks logo on it.


----------



## Reaper28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GOLDDUBBY*
> 
> Get watercooling.


lol this


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Yeah easier said then done, though, expense aside even. Though some of these posts do remind me that water cooling still can have a performance-related place on modern hardware. CPUs and even many GPUs today don't "need" it though like they did back in the day, even for extreme high voltage OCs. Many loops today are mostly for aesthetics and "fun".


----------



## synphul

I was thinking if I had the tools to do it (like a large drill press) it might be possible to drill a 120 or 140mm hole in the psu cover along with smaller holes to attach a fan on the underside of the psu cover blowing up toward the gpu fan. Basically a ventilated psu cover. Problem is without a press or something to power a bit that size, the fan hole wouldn't come out clean and I'd rather not destroy the psu cover with a hole that looks like I took a torch to it lol. That was my original plan until I got the case and realized the psu cover was metal. For some reason I thought it was plastic. A rotary cutter of some sort may work, I'm still thinking about it. Wish it was possible to buy an extra psu cover to practice on just in case it went south.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *synphul*
> 
> I was thinking if I had the tools to do it (like a large drill press) it might be possible to drill a 120 or 140mm hole in the psu cover along with smaller holes to attach a fan on the underside of the psu cover blowing up toward the gpu fan. Basically a ventilated psu cover. Problem is without a press or something to power a bit that size, the fan hole wouldn't come out clean and I'd rather not destroy the psu cover with a hole that looks like I took a torch to it lol. That was my original plan until I got the case and realized the psu cover was metal. For some reason I thought it was plastic. A rotary cutter of some sort may work, I'm still thinking about it. Wish it was possible to buy an extra psu cover to practice on just in case it went south.


Biggest problem is the PSU PCB is pretty much the same size as PSU case.


----------



## v4rj04nkk4

Hey, is there some trick to Start Phanteks Enthoo Pro, because did swap components from current rig inside Phanteks and pressing Start button does nothing.. PC was fully working last 2 years before i did change case...or do i have a dead power button ??







..is there anything else coming from the button than motherboard connectors, i got power switch and reset set to motherboard but got green light on motherboard but hitting Start button and nothing..?


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *v4rj04nkk4*
> 
> Hey, is there some trick to Start Phanteks Enthoo Pro, because did swap components from current rig inside Phanteks and pressing Start button does nothing.. PC was fully working last 2 years before i did change case...or do i have a dead power button ??
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ..is there anything else coming from the button than motherboard connectors, i got power switch and reset set to motherboard but got green light on motherboard but hitting Start button and nothing..?


first thing I would check is that the power lead from the switch isn't reversed..


----------



## v4rj04nkk4

Nevermind, found the problem.. for some reason my Cmos Jumper found on case bottom o_0.. so my PC didn't know do i want to start or boot bios o_0.. interesting notice still.. works now like a charm :] but 1 more question, do i need the fan hub controller to have SATA connecting AND hooked to cha_fan connector on motherboard? im lacking english a bit because im from Finland, and as far as i understand the Manual, i did understand you can't put both connected if you i use motherboard version (3-4pin connectors connected to mobo) ..







..


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *v4rj04nkk4*
> 
> Nevermind, found the problem.. for some reason my Cmos Jumper found on case bottom o_0.. so my PC didn't know do i want to start or boot bios o_0.. interesting notice still.. works now like a charm :] but 1 more question, do i need the fan hub controller to have SATA connecting AND hooked to cha_fan connector on motherboard? im lacking english a bit because im from Finland, and as far as i understand the Manual, i did understand you can't put both connected if you i use motherboard version (3-4pin connectors connected to mobo) ..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ..


you only need the sata connector if your fans need the extra power...try it without if they work fine you don't need the sata connected..


----------



## synphul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Biggest problem is the PSU PCB is pretty much the same size as PSU case.


Oh no, sorry. I didn't mean cutting a hole in the psu cover above the psu itself, the cover on the pro and luxe is around 12" long from front to back. The psu only occupies part of that space under the cover, I meant a hole closer to the middle of the case and mount it to the underside of the psu cover between the psu and drive cages. That way it would be getting air from the front bottom holes (the psu using the rear bottom hole for its' intake) and it would locate the added fan closer to the cooling fan on a gpu.

Here's sort of what I meant for mounting a fan in the psu cover. Sorry for the bad doodle lmao. http://prntscr.com/68z9ej


----------



## v4rj04nkk4

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> you only need the sata connector if your fans need the extra power...try it without if they work fine you don't need the sata connected..


I got them spin weird when entering Windows, but then they going on low speed, barely hear anything.. is there any problem that Sata connector does
if i put it on anyways ? thanks for fast reply.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *v4rj04nkk4*
> 
> I got them spin weird when entering Windows, but then they going on low speed, barely hear anything.. is there any problem that Sata connector does
> if i put it on anyways ? thanks for fast reply.


I'm unsure about all the hubs but mine won't run the fans over 60 percent with the sata connected does fine to 100 percent without...I set my fan curve through the bios...this is with the base phanteks fans connected and nothing else....I didn't see any issues with mine using the sata except the fans didn't run to correct speeds...but I would say there are a lot of variables there


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *synphul*
> 
> Oh no, sorry. I didn't mean cutting a hole in the psu cover above the psu itself, the cover on the pro and luxe is around 12" long from front to back. The psu only occupies part of that space under the cover, I meant a hole closer to the middle of the case and mount it to the underside of the psu cover between the psu and drive cages. That way it would be getting air from the front bottom holes (the psu using the rear bottom hole for its' intake) and it would locate the added fan closer to the cooling fan on a gpu.
> 
> Here's sort of what I meant for mounting a fan in the psu cover. Sorry for the bad doodle lmao. http://prntscr.com/68z9ej


Ahh.. My bad.
That should work quite well.

You could cut an oversize hole and use a nice grill over the cutout.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> I'm unsure about all the hubs but mine won't run the fans over 60 percent with the sata connected does fine to 100 percent without...I set my fan curve through the bios...this is with the base phanteks fans connected and nothing else....I didn't see any issues with mine using the sata except the fans didn't run to correct speeds...but I would say there are a lot of variables there


Yeah this is a 'known issue'&#8230;I just got my case and actually don't yet understand what the SATA power port on the hub is for exactly&#8230;how could it be "more power" if it causes the fans to run lower?


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> Yeah this is a 'known issue'&#8230;I just got my case and actually don't yet understand what the SATA power port on the hub is for exactly&#8230;how could it be "more power" if it causes the fans to run lower?


supposedly it provides more power for those fans that draw over what the motherboard port provides...I'm unsure how having the extra power connected limits fans that don't draw over the motherboard ports rating though


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Something here does not compute…lol


----------



## Premise

Sounds like an odd issue with the hub. A lot of people have issues with this thing :/ I never quite got mine working properly so ended up just ordering a fan controller for my case fans. For me the percentages I set in the BIOS didn't match up with the speeds the fans would actually run at. 10% somehow translated to nearly 1100rpm from fans with a 1300 maximum. Ended up with BIOS settings for the hub of 1% at 30C and 20% at 50C to get the fans to function how I wanted them too. These issues persist even with the SATA cable disconnected.

For some reason reviewers of my mobo, ASRock Z97 extreme6 assumed that 4 pin fan headers = PWM even when there is no mention of any PWM functionality from ASRock themselves in the manual or on their site. My guess is that neither of the 2 4 pin fan headers on this board actually have PWM.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

So does anyone ever just set their pump and res on the damn PSU cover (I am new to the thread)? It seems kinda lazy I guess and may not look the best-and most people mount their tubes up on the drive cage side or something-but I just got a little EK 140 tube on top of a DDC and not sure where to put it in my Pro...


----------



## pshootr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Premise*
> 
> Sounds like you're prepared to find the best possible air setup for this case
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> On a sidenote I was just looking at fans and found that the Phanteks PH-F140HP apparently has 120mm mounting holes. I wonder if this or the PH-F120XP would do better on the drive cage. Maybe the more focused airflow of the 120.
> 
> Edit: just removed one the PH-F140HPs from my CPU cooler and lined up the holes with the drive cage. It looks like while the holes do line up, the "frame" is too wide so the cage wouldn't be able to be pushed in all the way.


I ordered XP fans, and the 120 fits fine but I had to loosen the cross-member that is behind the bottom of the top cage in order to get the lower screws in. It is a very tight fit at the bottom. I also had to push upward on the upper cage to re-tighten the cross-member. (I had removed one screw, and loosened the other)
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> you only need the sata connector if your fans need the extra power...try it without if they work fine you don't need the sata connected..


The SATA power cable should only be used when connecting the HUB to a true PWM header. Not all 4-pin headers are PWM, and are actually controlled by voltage. When connecting the HUB to one of these headers, the SATA power cable will interfere with RPM regulation. (Read the manual) I had to read that part several times before I understood it


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> So does anyone ever just set their pump and res on the damn PSU cover (I am new to the thread)? It seems kinda lazy I guess and may not look the best-and most people mount their tubes up on the drive cage side or something-but I just got a little EK 140 tube on top of a DDC and not sure where to put it in my Pro...


I did.


----------



## GOLDDUBBY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> So does anyone ever just set their pump and res on the damn PSU cover (I am new to the thread)? It seems kinda lazy I guess and may not look the best-and most people mount their tubes up on the drive cage side or something-but I just got a little EK 140 tube on top of a DDC and not sure where to put it in my Pro...


Put it where it fits your build. I would think it potentially blocks off some components of the motherboard to put it on the psu cover?


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PureBlackFire*
> 
> I did.


Heh thanks. +rep!








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GOLDDUBBY*
> 
> Put it where it fits your build. I would think it potentially blocks off some components of the motherboard to put it on the psu cover?


Mayhaps. Yeah maybe I'll figure it out on my own once parts start going in finally but I was also curious if that was at all a thing. Seems too small to mount plus the pump is on it.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pshootr*
> 
> I ordered XP fans, and the 120 fits fine but I had to loosen the cross-member that is behind the bottom of the top cage in order to get the lower screws in. It is a very tight fit at the bottom. I also had to push upward on the upper cage to re-tighten the cross-member. (I removed one screw, and loosened the other)
> The SATA power cable should only be used when connecting the HUB to a true PWM header. Not all 4-pin headers are PWM, and are actually controlled by voltage. When connecting the HUB to one of these headers, the SATA power cable will interfere with RPM regulation. (Read the manual) I had to read that part several times before I understood it


my cpu fan header is and while trying it there to make sure that wasnt the issue it did the same on pwm header


----------



## pshootr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> my cpu fan header is and while trying it there to make sure that wasnt the issue it did the same on pwm header


In your bios under your fan control options, is there an option to choose whether you are using PWM or DC fans for the CPU fan control? I am beginning to wonder if this control is for telling the header to function as PWM or to function as a DC header. Perhaps you can choose PWM in the said option if you have it in your bios (if you haven't already).

Otherwise, I can't think of any reason other than a faulty HUB. I can use the SATA connector with a PWM header, and it seems to work fine.

Also from what I have heard is that sometimes a manufacturer will refer to headers as PWM even when they are in fact DC. ASUS is supposedly a repeat offender of this. But I don't know about on the kitty.

Edit:

I would imagine that at-least the CPU header would be true PWM, or at-least hope so.


----------



## benbenkr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pshootr*
> 
> In your bios under your fan control options, is there an option to choose whether you are using PWM or DC fans for the CPU fan control? I am beginning to wonder if this control is for telling the header to function as PWM or to function as a DC header. Perhaps you can choose PWM in the said option if you have it in your bios (if you haven't already).
> 
> Otherwise, I can't think of any reason other than a faulty HUB. I can use the SATA connector with a PWM header, and it seems to work fine.
> 
> Also from what I have heard is that sometimes a manufacturer will refer to headers as PWM even when they are in fact DC. *ASUS is supposedly a repeat offender of this*. But I don't know about on the kitty.
> 
> Edit:
> 
> I would imagine that at-least the CPU header would be true PWM, or at-least hope so.


Previously yeah.
Their Z97 boards (RoG series and Z97 Pro) all actually have PWM headers, of which you can switch between PWM or DC in the BIOS. It's really good and it's something that I think _ALL_ board manufacturers should have by this day and age, at the very least on their flagship and high end boards (looking at you MSI and Gigabyte!).


----------



## GOLDDUBBY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> Heh thanks. +rep!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mayhaps. Yeah maybe I'll figure it out on my own once parts start going in finally but I was also curious if that was at all a thing. Seems too small to mount plus the pump is on it.


In the primo there's a hole to pull a hose down through it, and a pump-mount in front of the psu

I have to admit, I'm like I don't really care.. I just throw the stuff in there and hope it works









as you can see,


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Damn that would be nice in mine. Though I really _can't_ see due to that dark pic lol. I will look at other Primo pics&#8230;

Thx +rep


----------



## fredocini

I just received my replacement front panel LED for the Enthoo Luxe from Phanteks and installed it fairly easily and quickly. I'm not too sure if this post might be useful to anyone but it was a great learning experience. Basically I was stupid and broke the LED strip connection on the right side of the front panel. I hope this post helps anyone who was unfortunate enough to experience this too!


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







The front and side panel are first removed, where the side panel will reveal the 4-pin connections to the front LED strips. Remove both connections, then separate the front panel from the case.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







There are two pieces that make up the front panel that need to be separated to reveal the LED strips. The circles marked in red are the six screws that hold the panel together and will need to be unscrewed. The blue circles indicate tabs that you will decompress to unclip the two panel pieces.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!




Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pshootr*






Afterwards the two pieces should look like this; the green rectangles indicate the exposed LED strips. You will want to remove the broken strip with a flat head screw driver to slide underneath as the strip is glued.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







All that was needed afterwards was to install the replacement strip is to feed it through the little opening at the top of the panel, and then remove the 3M protective strip on the back of the LED strip and stick it right where the broken one used to be! Then snap the two panel pieces back together, insert the 6 screws and re-connect the 4-pins. Reattach the front panel and good as new again!


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







I know that this is pretty simple but I hope it helps!


----------



## Xzow

Would you guys recommend me the Enthoo Luxe over the 760t?

I have two dual slot cards, one using the corsair hg10 so it has a radiator. I'm not sure where I would mount that radiator with push/pull fans inside the case because I don't wanna use the back fan slot for visual reasons (I also have a dual rad on top and don't wanna pass the tubes in front of the ram).


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Xzow*
> 
> Would you guys recommend me the Enthoo Luxe over the 760t?
> 
> I have two dual slot cards, one using the corsair hg10 so it has a radiator. I'm not sure where I would mount that radiator with push/pull fans inside the case because I don't wanna use the back fan slot for visual reasons (I also have a dual rad on top and don't wanna pass the tubes in front of the ram).


it depends on the specific hardware, but usually I would recommend the Enthoo Luxe or 750D over the 760T unless you are in love with the 760T's aesthetic. the top is either blocked off or a dust hole thanks to not having a filter (for some reason they opted for a plastic sheet cover) and the bottom front rad capacity is limited due to the shape of the chassis. basically it's a 750D that trades unique look for a small amount of functionality.


----------



## Xzow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PureBlackFire*
> 
> it depends on the specific hardware, but usually I would recommend the Enthoo Luxe or 750D over the 760T unless you are in love with the 760T's aesthetic. the top is either blocked off or a dust hole thanks to not having a filter (for some reason they opted for a plastic sheet cover) and the bottom front rad capacity is limited due to the shape of the chassis. basically it's a 750D that trades unique look for a small amount of functionality.


Is dust really an issue with exhaust?
I am picking between 760t and enthoo luxe because of the aesthetics and functionality. I have pretty much what I said, dual rad for cpu cooler in push pull, and 120 radiator on push pull with one of my two cards. I was thinking of putting the middle drive cage on top of the one near the front and attaching the 120 radiator to it (What I did in my case now). In the enthoo luxe I'm not sure if I'll have room for that.


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Xzow*
> 
> Is dust really an issue with exhaust?
> I am picking between 760t and enthoo luxe because of the aesthetics and functionality. I have pretty much what I said, dual rad for cpu cooler in push pull, and 120 radiator on push pull with one of my two cards. I was thinking of putting the middle drive cage on top of the one near the front and attaching the 120 radiator to it (What I did in my case now). In the enthoo luxe I'm not sure if I'll have room for that.


I hear that asked alot and yes, dust is always a problem (a smaller problem with exhaust) if the space around the fans isn't sealed. as for the rad on the drive cage, it's possible in either case, though I'd just mount it to the bottom intake on the case.


----------



## taem

Dealing with Phanteks was great, I needed to order some spare parts and had some questions, emailed, got a reply in hours, finalized my order, got a payment link a few hours later, clicked it, shipped next day, got it in a few. Easy peasy.


----------



## pshootr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *taem*
> 
> Dealing with Phanteks was great, I needed to order some spare parts and had some questions, emailed, got a reply in hours, finalized my order, got a payment link a few hours later, clicked it, shipped next day, got it in a few. Easy peasy.


That is awesome, great to hear.


----------



## Dyekid217

I really want to replace my side panel window with something that's clear and will allow more visibility of my build. My internals look ccompletely different without the side panel on since it is quite cloudy.

Is there a guide on how to replace the side panel with something clear/glass? Or will I be able to take my side panel to a glass shop and have them install one for me?


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dyekid217*
> 
> I really want to replace my side panel window with something that's clear and will allow more visibility of my build. My internals look ccompletely different without the side panel on since it is quite cloudy.
> 
> Is there a guide on how to replace the side panel with something clear/glass? Or will I be able to take my side panel to a glass shop and have them install one for me?


Several people have done it here if you do a search it should be here or that person could link you... they used acrylic which is stronger than glass and less prone to breakage... and lighter... held on with magnets... but for the size they used they will have to link you :0


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Dyekid217*
> 
> I really want to replace my side panel window with something that's clear and will allow more visibility of my build. My internals look ccompletely different without the side panel on since it is quite cloudy.
> 
> Is there a guide on how to replace the side panel with something clear/glass? Or will I be able to take my side panel to a glass shop and have them install one for me?
> 
> 
> 
> Several people have done it here if you do a search it should be here or that person could link you... they used acrylic which is stronger than glass and less prone to breakage... and lighter... held on with magnets... but for the size they used they will have to link you :0
Click to expand...

Here you go. koniu777 was the first to do that mod. Here's is original post and some of the discussion afterward where he answers the size of the acrylic and magnets used ...
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *koniu777*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *koniu777*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *nellyp67*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *koniu777*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *koniu777*
> 
> Hello everyone, I've got my enthoo luxe a couple months ago but I couldn't move my hardware into it because the side panel with window bothered me a lot. The plastic used on the window is very cheap, mine arrived all scratched up from shipping, the placement of the window was always a bit off in my opinion... So lately I've been doing a bit of brain storming on how to overcome this problem on a really awesome case. The solution I've come up with is a tinted acrylic panel that is secured to the case with magnets, I think it looks way better than the original stuff  Posting couple shots of the mod as it is now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Amazing I've been on the fence of modding my panel to make my own window with u channel like bill Owen. But this actually seems better looking, easier and less money. And you can always throw you old panel back on. Could u post a picture of the actual arylic with the magnets on it. How did you attach the magnets with 3m?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Yup I have used 3m double sided tape to mount the magnets, very easy mod that doesn't require any actual case modification. BTW the acrylic sheet is 3/16" thick, I picked mine up locally at mcmaster carr this morning.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Great idea looks very good , can I ask wot is the size of the acrylic window
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> The size of the acrylic is 19.25" x 18.25" and 3/16" thick.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> BTW, the magnets I have used are these:
> 
> http://www.homedepot.com/p/Super-Magnets-3-8-in-Neodymium-Rare-Earth-Magnet-Discs-12-Pack-07090HD/202526371
> 
> double sided tape:
> 
> http://www.homedepot.com/p/Scotch-1-in-x-1-66-yds-Extreme-Mounting-Tape-414-DC/203405976
> 
> acrylic window from McMaster Carr:
> 
> http://www.mcmaster.com/#catalog/120/3588/=ux7xdr
> 
> part# 8505K84
Click to expand...


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Here you go. koniu777 was the first to do that mod. Here's is original post and some of the discussion afterward where he answers the size of the acrylic and magnets used ...


thx I was on mobile and couldn't search back through very well


----------



## roony

Hello All. Recently got the enthoo primo, love the case. Now im planning my first WC build. I have read the FAQ and other threads but havnt been able to find this exact q.

Im looking to fit the alphacool 360 xt45 rad in the top push/pull. My Q is, will it interfere with the top 5.25 bay (having a dvd drive there)? Im talking from left to right view point, if that makes sense (as in will the back end of the dvd drive rub against the push fan)? Thanks

Edit: Well re-read the specs, though its a 360mm rad, with the g1/4 ports the total lenght is 400mm. Doesnt look like it will. I


----------



## wrigleyvillain

That window mod is awesome…though did he have to cut the acrylic sheet to get those dimensions?


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> That window mod is awesome&#8230;though did he have to cut the acrylic sheet to get those dimensions?


A lot of places will cut the sheet to size for you.

Acrylic is easily cut to size. Many people just score the edge along a straightedge with a sharp razor knife and then snap it. That works pretty well, though you may want to flame polish the edges afterward to get a clean edge look. There are plenty of youtube vids showing how to cut and polish acrylic like that.

Or you can cut it on a table saw with a fine tooth blade (which is what I do. I prefer to run the blade backwards) and when I need a clean edge I finish to final dimensions with a table-mounted router.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

True, true...he did say he picked it up at a local McMaster too


----------



## Kiaxa

Hi, thought I'd post some pictures of my watercooling build in my Enthoo Pro. Also I made this build for fun so please don't criticize me for my hardware choices

Quick system hardware rundown:

AMD A10-6790K w/ Crossblade Ranger and an R9 270x Devil


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Cool thanks and not bad at all. This thread needs more Pro pics!

Hey that reservoir mount came with your tube, right? How does it attach to the case there exactly? Adhesive?


----------



## Kiaxa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> Cool thanks and not bad at all. This thread needs more Pro pics!
> 
> Hey that reservoir mount came with your tube, right? How does it attach to the case there exactly? Adhesive?


Screwed into the res mounting bracket that came with the case. I did have to make some new holes in the plate though due to my graphics card rubbing when using the stock mounting holes on the bracket


----------



## synphul

I'll gladly get pics of my pro posted up if/when I can ever get all my parts rounded up. 2 day prime shipping turned into more like a week due to bad weather, my 2 140mm fans and led lighting are stuck at the post office (2 towns over - ahh the joys of rural living, you know times are slow when your 'city' folds up it's post office lmao). The carbon fiber wrap didn't ship prime and the best guess amazon could give me was sometime between 2-25 and 3-4 or 3-5 I think it was. Hoping it turns out decent/clean like some of the others I've seen although no fancy water cooling setup. Just air cooling so it may look a bit boring in comparison.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Yeah mine won't be done for weeks probably either…will post pics too eventually.


----------



## emsj86

debating on going sli 780s or wait for "980ti" or whatever the next gpu is. If i do not sure if 360 and 249 rad is enough. The pro doesn't allow for thick rads larger than 240. What are your thoughts.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

No not "thick" though an XSPC EX420 nicely just fits up top. Although that thing may well not be a great performer if the EX360 results from the round up at ExtremeRigs posted recently in the Club thread is any guide. I also am using a single 140mm in the rear for a bit extra cooling surface area. Plus a 240 XT45 in front (but you said you are trying to avoid that)&#8230;

This isn't yet built but I have all the parts. You could always just try it and see how your temps are. If bad news just remove the second card til you figure out your cooling and get the parts.

Edit: IDK if using acrylic complicates that kind of testing or what not...


----------



## Kiaxa

The top rad clearance for the pro is 40mm thick when using 25mm fans. I'm running a Swiftech MCR320-XP (which is a 360mm rad with a 34mm thickness) with EK Vardar F4 and the whole assembly fits like a glove.


----------



## Kiaxa

Does anyone with the pro or luxe know if using an aftermarket pump top for the D5 will allow me to put the hard drive cage back in the top rail. I'm using the pump bracket on the bottom cage pedestal thing and my pump is an mcp655 w/ stock top


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kiaxa*
> 
> Does anyone with the pro or luxe know if using an aftermarket pump top for the D5 will allow me to put the hard drive cage back in the top rail. I'm using the pump bracket on the bottom cage pedestal thing and my pump is an mcp655 w/ stock top


hmm.... maybe a pic would help, but you can mount the cage as long as you have enough clearance.


----------



## Kiaxa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PureBlackFire*
> 
> hmm.... maybe a pic would help, but you can mount the cage as long as you have enough clearance.


----------



## PureBlackFire

it should clear. if it doesn't you can mount the bracket right to the floor of the case.


----------



## Kiaxa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PureBlackFire*
> 
> it should clear. if it doesn't you can mount the bracket right to the floor of the case.


Alright cool, thanks.


----------



## emsj86

In theorey couldn't one buy the top and front panels for the luxe to put on the pro to have more rad space since the fans would be on the panel. I know they don't sell these. But I've contacted phanteks before and they sent me an extra side panel for 10 dollars as I had planned to cut it and install a custom window


----------



## GOLDDUBBY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> debating on going sli 780s or wait for "980ti" or whatever the next gpu is. If i do not sure if 360 and 249 rad is enough. The pro doesn't allow for thick rads larger than 240. What are your thoughts.


Depends what games you're playing, and resolution/dsr I guess.


----------



## pshootr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> debating on going sli 780s or wait for "980ti" or whatever the next gpu is. If i do not sure if 360 and 249 rad is enough. The pro doesn't allow for thick rads larger than 240. What are your thoughts.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GOLDDUBBY*
> 
> Depends what games you're playing, and resolution/dsr I guess.


I think he is asking for rad suggestions in consideration of his possible GPU upgrade?


----------



## GOLDDUBBY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pshootr*
> 
> I think he is asking for rad suggestions in consideration of his possible GPU upgrade?


You can never have too much rad







although I think the ~600mm you got should suffice. Too many variables, such as fans, head pressure, flowrates, ambients etc.. to really give any other advice on it.

What are your temps at load with the setup you got now?

Back to your question if you should go for a second 780 or wait for the 980ti. It depends on how ram demanding the games you play are.

This can also be related to at what resolution you wish to play at.

If you play games like battlefield etc, on 1920x1080 maybe boosting a bit with dsr, then your 780 should hold you quite a while longer. Add in a second card and you will see awesome fps in those games.

I'd say get another 780







but that decision is up to you, you're wallet, and your demands.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Can someone answer if the Luxe panels fit Pro? I'd like to know this too.


----------



## Kiaxa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> Can someone answer if the Luxe panels fit Pro? I'd like to know this too.


The Luxe and Pro use the same core chassis so I don't see why not


----------



## pshootr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> Can someone answer if the Luxe panels fit Pro? I'd like to know this too.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kiaxa*
> 
> The Luxe and Pro use the same core chassis so I don't see why not


The Luxe has a taller front panel so that's a no. I'm not sure about the side panels though.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Pro/Luxe chassis and side panels are the same.
Pro top panel only fits with Pro front panel.
Luxe top panel only fits with Luxe front panel.


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> Can someone answer if the Luxe panels fit Pro? I'd like to know this too.


yes. same same. you can turn a pro into a luxe if you want.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Thanks +rep to all.


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GOLDDUBBY*
> 
> You can never have too much rad
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> although I think the ~600mm you got should suffice. Too many variables, such as fans, head pressure, flowrates, ambients etc.. to really give any other advice on it.
> 
> What are your temps at load with the setup you got now?
> 
> Back to your question if you should go for a second 780 or wait for the 980ti. It depends on how ram demanding the games you play are.
> 
> This can also be related to at what resolution you wish to play at.
> 
> If you play games like battlefield etc, on 1920x1080 maybe boosting a bit with dsr, then your 780 should hold you quite a while longer. Add in a second card and you will see awesome fps in those games.
> 
> I'd say get another 780
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> but that decision is up to you, you're wallet, and your demands.


my load temps on intel burn test out cpu 78 and gpu never has seen over 45 on anything. I game at 144hx 1080p. My in game cpu hits 63 max. (I7 4790k 4.8). Sorry if it's a dumb question but what's Dsr and how do yu boost it. (Is it the resolution scale?)


----------



## zames

Hello, this is my first post in here and i just want to share my new case with not so old parts. I had Fractal desing define r4 but it was realy loud when it i play games and looked like a fridge.





If u want some more info or photos just reply to this post.








I'm realy rusty in writing in english so don't hate me for that, if i wrote somethink incorrect please fell free to tell me that.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

So the pump mount bracket available for Pro goes in the bottom somewhere (probably frontish)?

http://www.amazon.com/Phanteks-Bracket-Pre-Drilled-Mounting-PH-PUMBKT_01/dp/B00M0QZ67E


----------



## Kiaxa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> So the pump mount bracket available for Pro goes in the bottom somewhere (probably frontish)?
> 
> http://www.amazon.com/Phanteks-Bracket-Pre-Drilled-Mounting-PH-PUMBKT_01/dp/B00M0QZ67E


It goes where the HDD cages sit. It can either be mounted on the floor of the case or on the pedestal that the lower cage sits on.

Like this


----------



## wjturner78

thought id throw in some pics of the build im working on. still far from complete but getting there!


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Ah thats why I wasn't so sure I took out that floor piece along with both cages as I have an XT45 rad in the front. I may be able to put it back in and fit it all though I think; my rad doesn't reach to the floor...


----------



## pshootr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wjturner78*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> thought id throw in some pics of the build im working on. still far from complete but getting there!


Very nice job man, looks very clean. Dang, also looks like about $300 on fans


----------



## wjturner78

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pshootr*
> 
> Very nice job man, looks very clean. Dang, also looks like about $300 on fans


thanks!. lol theres 19 total fans @$20 a pop, crazy how expensive fans are getting.


----------



## pshootr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wjturner78*
> 
> thanks!. lol theres 19 total fans @$20 a pop, crazy how expensive fans are getting.


You must have spent many many hours so far on that build. And ya your fans cost as much as my GPU and CPU


----------



## wjturner78

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pshootr*
> 
> You must have spent many many hours so far on that build. And ya your fans cost as much as my GPU and CPU


I couldnt begin to tell you how long ive spent on this build so far (i know my wife could though cause i hear about it every day







) its a labor of love at this point. the most time consuming is the wiring, every single wire was hand made by me. so far im at 300+ feet and counting. I also put close to 100 feet of neon elwire into the bundles. i started a build log on it now that i can see the light at the end of the tunnel


----------



## pshootr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wjturner78*
> 
> I couldnt begin to tell you how long ive spent on this build so far (i know my wife could though cause i hear about it every day
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ) its a labor of love at this point. the most time consuming is the wiring, every single wire was hand made by me. so far im at 300+ feet and counting. I also put close to 100 feet of neon elwire into the bundles. i started a build log on it now that i can see the light at the end of the tunnel


lol (the wife).. Well done man, kudos to you +rep


----------



## wjturner78

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pshootr*
> 
> lol (the wife).. Well done man, kudos to you +rep


yeah her.. lol

thanks for the rep...


----------



## Dorito Bandit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zames*
> 
> Hello, this is my first post in here and i just want to share my new case with not so old parts. I had Fractal desing define r4 but it was realy loud when it i play games and looked like a fridge.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If u want some more info or photos just reply to this post.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm realy rusty in writing in english so don't hate me for that, if i wrote somethink incorrect please fell free to tell me that.


Welcome to the forums and club! Very nice looking build!









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wjturner78*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> thought id throw in some pics of the build im working on. still far from complete but getting there!


Very nice, bro! I love the red & black theme. However, I think you need to add at least one more fan in there. You know, just to make it an even 20. 19 is soooooooo uneven!


----------



## wjturner78

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dorito Bandit*
> 
> Welcome to the forums and club! Very nice looking build!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Very nice, bro! I love the red & black theme. However, I think you need to add at least one more fan in there. You know, just to make it an even 20. 19 is soooooooo uneven!


I completely agree with you! Unfortunately ive run out of room to mount anymore fans... thanks for the compliment.


----------



## GOLDDUBBY

*@ wjturner78* How did you mount that fan to the 5.25" drive space ??


----------



## Sheddyjr

Just bought the Luxe and it arrived yesterday and I have moved my build over to it. Just wondering how I can make it a tad quieter. Got the stock 200 up front, the 2 stock 140s up top as exhaust and h80i as exhaust on the back with stock fans. Got Noctuas turning up tomorrow for the h80i.
Any ideas to get it quieter?
Also, such an awesome case. Changed from my 3 year old CM Storm Trooper and this case is so minimal yet beautiful case I have owned.


----------



## synphul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sheddyjr*
> 
> Just wondering how I can make it a tad quieter.


The best way I know of is to go through the fans one by one to see where the noise is coming from. Try and determine if it's the fan itself, hub/bearing noise (mechanical hum or ticking) or the whoosh of the airflow itself. Any obstructions may add to the noise interrupting the airflow. Even if fans are 'supposed' to be quiet, it can depend on direction they're mounted, the individual fans themselves (one may have a quirk or inconsistency) and the harmonics of the fans can play a role. Typically lower tones don't sound as 'loud' to most people as higher pitched noise. That's why when listening to different fan sound profiles, to me the noctua's have a more pleasant sound. Even when they get loud it's more of a hum than a whine. I haven't tried my 200mm stock front fan yet, will have to see how it goes. The stock 140sp for the rear exhaust didn't sound bad at all.

A couple things I can think of in your situation, it could be the 200mm since it's right up front and probably closest to you. The stock h80i fans I've heard from others can get a bit noisy. Make sure to listen to your 140sp's up top as well, I tried my rear exhaust fan horizontal blowing up the way I planned to use it for top exhaust and it picked up a bad vibration and noise. Soon as I turned it back vertical as rear exhaust, the vibration and sound went away. I think the phanteks case fans are sleeve bearing (they call them updraft floating balance) and might be why they play nicer vertical than they do horizontally.


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sheddyjr*
> 
> Just bought the Luxe and it arrived yesterday and I have moved my build over to it. Just wondering how I can make it a tad quieter. Got the stock 200 up front, the 2 stock 140s up top as exhaust and h80i as exhaust on the back with stock fans. Got Noctuas turning up tomorrow for the h80i.
> Any ideas to get it quieter?
> Also, such an awesome case. Changed from my 3 year old CM Storm Trooper and this case is so minimal yet beautiful case I have owned.


ditch the H80 altogether, set the front fan to a lower speed or replace it with a pair of 120/140 mm fans and do the same.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sheddyjr*
> 
> Just bought the Luxe and it arrived yesterday and I have moved my build over to it. Just wondering how I can make it a tad quieter. Got the stock 200 up front, the 2 stock 140s up top as exhaust and h80i as exhaust on the back with stock fans. Got Noctuas turning up tomorrow for the h80i.
> Any ideas to get it quieter?
> Also, such an awesome case. Changed from my 3 year old CM Storm Trooper and this case is so minimal yet beautiful case I have owned.


Slowing down the fan speed usually quiets things down. Often it's not the fan make the noise as much as the grill, filter, etc that the air is flowing thorugh / around. You have a PWM controlled 3-pin fan hub included in the case. Use the CPU fan header's PWM control signal to regulate the case fan speeds.


----------



## Reaper28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PureBlackFire*
> 
> ditch the H80 altogether, set the front fan to a lower speed or replace it with a pair of 120/140 mm fans and do the same.


Out of curiosity what led fans would you recommend for the Luxe, I have the SP140's and they barely seem to move any air at all. I know what the better fan brands are just curious for yours or others opinions on it


----------



## Sheddyjr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Slowing down the fan speed usually quiets things down. Often it's not the fan make the noise as much as the grill, filter, etc that the air is flowing thorugh / around. You have a PWM controlled 3-pin fan hub included in the case. Use the CPU fan header's PWM control signal to regulate the case fan speeds.


If I do that, where will my H80i plug into for me to control it from corsair link?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PureBlackFire*
> 
> ditch the H80 altogether, set the front fan to a lower speed or replace it with a pair of 120/140 mm fans and do the same.


What would I replace it with? A massive air cooler? I don't particularly want to spend that sort of money on one considering I have redone my build. Why is this hobby so damned expensive








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *synphul*
> 
> The best way I know of is to go through the fans one by one to see where the noise is coming from. Try and determine if it's the fan itself, hub/bearing noise (mechanical hum or ticking) or the whoosh of the airflow itself. Any obstructions may add to the noise interrupting the airflow. Even if fans are 'supposed' to be quiet, it can depend on direction they're mounted, the individual fans themselves (one may have a quirk or inconsistency) and the harmonics of the fans can play a role. Typically lower tones don't sound as 'loud' to most people as higher pitched noise. That's why when listening to different fan sound profiles, to me the noctua's have a more pleasant sound. Even when they get loud it's more of a hum than a whine. I haven't tried my 200mm stock front fan yet, will have to see how it goes. The stock 140sp for the rear exhaust didn't sound bad at all.
> 
> A couple things I can think of in your situation, it could be the 200mm since it's right up front and probably closest to you. The stock h80i fans I've heard from others can get a bit noisy. Make sure to listen to your 140sp's up top as well, I tried my rear exhaust fan horizontal blowing up the way I planned to use it for top exhaust and it picked up a bad vibration and noise. Soon as I turned it back vertical as rear exhaust, the vibration and sound went away. I think the phanteks case fans are sleeve bearing (they call them updraft floating balance) and might be why they play nicer vertical than they do horizontally.


The stock h80 fans are disappearing tomorrow when posty comes tomorrow, can't wait! I will have a listen today and decide which one is being too loud and go from there.

Cheers for the help guys


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> So the pump mount bracket available for Pro goes in the bottom somewhere (probably frontish)?
> 
> http://www.amazon.com/Phanteks-Bracket-Pre-Drilled-Mounting-PH-PUMBKT_01/dp/B00M0QZ67E


I actually mounted mine to my fans on my bottom rad. Works great no noise or vibrations.


----------



## doyll

I'm not familiar with the Corsair fan link, but suspect you could use a PWM splitter to send PWM signal to both the fan hub and teh cooler.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> I actually mounted mine to my fans on my bottom rad. Works great no noise or vibrations.


Interesting, thanks. Looks/sounds like I do want to pick up that bracket even before I am totally sure where anything is going to go. I need a second SSD bracket too, anyway...


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Reaper28*
> 
> Out of curiosity what led fans would you recommend for the Luxe, I have the SP140's and they barely seem to move any air at all. I know what the better fan brands are just curious for yours or others opinions on it


don'tknow honestly. I stay away from LED fans so I'm not sure which ones are any good. though it stands to reason that LED version of some decent fans like cougar and phanteks should be good case fans. thermaltake showed some new LED fans the other day: http://www.overclock.net/forum/newestpost/1543425

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sheddyjr*
> 
> What would I replace it with? A massive air cooler? I don't particularly want to spend that sort of money on one considering I have redone my build. Why is this hobby so damned expensive


it comes with the territory..







the H80i can have "quiet" fans mounted on it, but ultimatley you need high speed fans (higher noise) to get maximum cooling performance from it (still lower than top air coolers) and the pump itself can be the source of the most moise in some cases. basically, the only viable solutions where you don't absolutely have to trade noise for performance and vice versa is with a large air cooler or custom water loop. those are the only routes that can offer great cooling and low noise at the same time. it sucks but it's better to look into this before buying. for the price of an H80i there are no less than 4 air coolers that perform better. there are a few at $50-$70 that also perform better, but with almost comparable noise levels. the cost of the H80i and two new fans is almost the cost of the Swiftech H220X.


----------



## emsj86

Yea to get good performance out of he h80i the fans will have to be moving fast. Any fan at 2000rpm is loud. So I'm sure that's what your hearing. Push won't give you much of a increase in my experience on a rad like that. What I would do is either drop your oc .1 or won't even notice the difference and set fans to pwm control where they will only sli. Fast when needed. Games won't push your cpu that much for the most part. Now if you render editing etc. than it will. Just some ideas


----------



## wjturner78

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GOLDDUBBY*
> 
> *@ wjturner78* How did you mount that fan to the 5.25" drive space ??


i used an xspc rad bracket


----------



## Wallboy

I'm looking at the Enthoo Luxe for my upcoming build and wondering what others are using for lighting? Are most of you using Phanteks LED Strip? And where is the best placement in the case for it? I'm guessing for the 1 meter version most run it like so just along the edge on the inside:


Or will the connection not reach like this?


----------



## pshootr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wallboy*
> 
> I'm looking at the Enthoo Luxe for my upcoming build and wondering what others are using for lighting? Are most of you using Phanteks LED Strip? And where is the best placement in the case for it? I'm guessing for the 1 meter version most run it like so just along the edge on the inside:
> 
> 
> Or will the connection not reach like this?


I use the two meter version from Phanteks, because it does not cost much more than the 1 meter version. I think you would have some trouble making the hookup with the proposed install location. I recommend getting the 2 meter version. Or you could check out Lows or Home Depot for other options that are remote controlled.

Keep in mind the 3M tape is not that great, and will fall down if you mount it on the underneath of the top chassis panel, so plan on using some tape or tie wraps.


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wallboy*
> 
> I'm looking at the Enthoo Luxe for my upcoming build and wondering what others are using for lighting? Are most of you using Phanteks LED Strip? And where is the best placement in the case for it? I'm guessing for the 1 meter version most run it like so just along the edge on the inside:
> 
> 
> Or will the connection not reach like this?


I'm using the 2 meter strip. I have it running around the side like what you have there and across the back and around above the motherboard. I wanted it lit right above the motherboard.


----------



## pshootr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PureBlackFire*
> 
> I'm using the 2 meter strip. I have it running around the side like what you have there and across the back and around above the motherboard. I wanted it lit right above the motherboard.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I like this idea, I think I may do this







+rep


----------



## Wallboy

I was always under the impression that there was such thing as too much lighting which gave everything a "flat" look. It seemed that way to when I looked up pictures of systems that were using lighting going around the entire inside of the case. What do you guys think about a setup like this with the 1 meter version:


Anyone have any pictures of there system with the 2 meter version? Or 1 meter verison for that matter.


----------



## pshootr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wallboy*
> 
> I was always under the impression that there was such thing as too much lighting which gave everything a "flat" look. It seemed that way to when I looked up pictures of systems that were using lighting going around the entire inside of the case. What do you guys think about a setup like this with the 1 meter version:
> 
> 
> Anyone have any pictures of there system with the 2 meter version? Or 1 meter verison for that matter.


That would work well I think. Although the front portion will be very muted. (eh, maybe not so muted)

I do not have any pictures yet, sorry.


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wallboy*
> 
> I was always under the impression that there was such thing as too much lighting which gave everything a "flat" look. It seemed that way to when I looked up pictures of systems that were using lighting going around the entire inside of the case. What do you guys think about a setup like this with the 1 meter version:
> 
> 
> Anyone have any pictures of there system with the 2 meter version? Or 1 meter verison for that matter.


I think the 1 meter is too short. in every video or review I've seen it looks incomplete as the lighting doesn't even go around the window panel consistently.

http://www.kitguru.net/components/cases/leo-waldock/phanteks-enthoo-luxe-case-review/5/




the sections not lit look so dark thanks to the tinted window on the case. that's why I wanted to light more than just around the window. I wanted to light the whole interior and I think it came out great.


----------



## Wallboy

That's too much lighting for my personal taste. Not a big fan of the "flood" light look. Looking for more of accent lighting.

Edit: I'll probably just buy the 2 meter version anyway, if I don't need to use all of it, I can always just tuck the excess behind the tray. Thanks for the input guys.

Now for my second question. Case fans. I plan on replacing all the fans that come with this case with Noctua PWM case fans. I'm likely going with a VII Hero motherboard and it happens to have "true PWM" for all fan headers which is nice. My question is the Noctua NF-A14 PWM vs the NF-A15 PWM. Which one would you guys choose? I plan on replacing the 200mm fan in front with 2 140mm, and I'm not sure how many I'll use for exhaust. Would replacing the 2 exhaust fans that come with the case with Noctua 140mm be alright? So it would be an equal intake/exhaust setup.

Thanks again.


----------



## synphul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Reaper28*
> 
> Out of curiosity what led fans would you recommend for the Luxe


You may need to check the specific fans you're considering. I don't think it's always the case, but for instance with corsair fans they have 2 different types of bearings. Their led 120's/140's use sleeve bearings while the non led af140's use hydraulic bearings. Just something to consider if it makes a difference to you, they don't really highlight that difference. I've also heard that cooler master fan bearings aren't all that great but their jetflo 120's use a different pom bearing design which is quite a bit better.


----------



## synphul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wallboy*
> 
> I'm looking at the Enthoo Luxe for my upcoming build and wondering what others are using for lighting? Are most of you using Phanteks LED Strip?


I'm using the pro, not the luxe (which means I couldn't attach the luxe led's without the proprietary connector). Thought I'd throw this out there though, I picked up an led strip kit off amazon that seems pretty decent. I can't comment on it's durability but it looks like the same basic leds used by logisys, deepcool and others. 5050 smd led's, sold by various people like supernight, hitlights, ledwholesalers etc. The set I picked up came with 16.4ft of rgb+w led's (every other light is a tri bulb rgb, in between are cool white leds). All of them have complaints about the 3m tape not holding well, but it is 3m brand (marked on the backing strip). They're pretty bright but has a remote so you can change colors, brighten/dim the strip (rgb and white are on separate channels). The strips have a place every so often where they can be cut with solder points (in case you want to solder wiring or connectors and customize the strip lengths).

Can't complain, it was just under $30 for a complete kit with the controller, remote, 16.4 ft of leds and a wall plug power adapter similar to those for laptops for the 5v dc. Others complained about ir interference with remotes although I tested it with my directv remote and found no issues. It cost a few dollars more for the rgb+w than for the regular rgb and I think it was a dollar or two more for the 'waterproof'. Came to like $28. Just note the waterproof isn't really completely waterproof, but it has a clear soft plastic sleeve over the leds which I figured would make it easier to wipe clean every so often if needed. Just an option.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PureBlackFire*
> 
> I think the 1 meter is too short. in every video or review I've seen it looks incomplete as the lighting doesn't even go around the window panel consistently.
> 
> 
> 
> the sections not lit look so dark thanks to the tinted window on the case. that's why I wanted to light more than just around the window. I wanted to light the whole interior and I think it came out great.


I can only speak for this photo, but I can tell you it is a bit misleading. In person the components are clearly visible, though obviously not lit as much as using a top mounted strip - also the white case reflects a lot more light inside than the black, when I installed the 2m it was overbearing. The white case and background threw off the white balance of the camera a bit. If I get a chance to grab a better still of that build later I will post it.

It's all personal taste.


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> I can only speak for this photo, but I can tell you it is a bit misleading. In person the components are clearly visible, though obviously not lit as much as using a top mounted strip - also the white case reflects a lot more light inside than the black, when I installed the 2m it was overbearing. The white case and background threw off the white balance of the camera a bit. If I get a chance to grab a better still of that build later I will post it.
> 
> It's all personal taste.


I see. you guys pic was the darkest I've seen so thanks for clearing that up. I wish photos did more justice to how it looks in person. my lighting looks so excessive in pics but it's very balanced really.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PureBlackFire*
> 
> I see. you guys pic was the darkest I've seen so thanks for clearing that up. I wish photos did more justice to how it looks in person. my lighting looks so excessive in pics but it's very balanced really.


yeah you need an extremely good camera for that..


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PureBlackFire*
> 
> I see. you guys pic was the darkest I've seen so thanks for clearing that up. I wish photos did more justice to how it looks in person. my lighting looks so excessive in pics but it's very balanced really.


The smoked window is seemingly impossible to get to photograph anything like it looks. I'm looking at my Primo right now, and I can see every single component right down to the cabling at the bottom of the MB. Yet in photos it looks like I don't even have lighting in the case.

In general, photos/videos really do the Luxe and Pro no justice. They are much nicer than you expect them to be from looking at pics.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> The smoked window is seemingly impossible to get to photograph anything like it looks. I'm looking at my Primo right now, and I can see every single component right down to the cabling at the bottom of the MB. Yet in photos it looks like I don't even have lighting in the case.
> 
> In general, photos/videos really do the Luxe and Pro no justice. They are much nicer than you expect them to be from looking at pics.


imo that's a good thing more often than not you get less than the pictures show


----------



## PureBlackFire

true.


----------



## Reaper28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *synphul*
> 
> You may need to check the specific fans you're considering. I don't think it's always the case, but for instance with corsair fans they have 2 different types of bearings. Their led 120's/140's use sleeve bearings while the non led af140's use hydraulic bearings. Just something to consider if it makes a difference to you, they don't really highlight that difference. I've also heard that cooler master fan bearings aren't all that great but their jetflo 120's use a different pom bearing design which is quite a bit better.


Honestly I could careless about the bearing type. how ever I have better luck with sleeve bearings oddly enough. I just want a red led fan that performs well as an intake in the front of the case


----------



## pshootr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> yeah you need an extremely good camera for that..


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> The smoked window is seemingly impossible to get to photograph anything like it looks. I'm looking at my Primo right now, and I can see every single component right down to the cabling at the bottom of the MB. Yet in photos it looks like I don't even have lighting in the case.
> 
> In general, photos/videos really do the Luxe and Pro no justice. They are much nicer than you expect them to be from looking at pics.


Use a tripod, and a slow exposure setting with no flash for better results.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Reaper28*
> 
> Honestly I could careless about the bearing type. how ever I have better luck with sleeve bearings oddly enough. I just want a red led fan that performs well as an intake in the front of the case


Sleeve bearings are fine for vertical mounts, but not so good for horizontal mounts.

I was going to get LED fans too, but finally decided not too. I ended up buying the XP fans from Phanteks.


----------



## Mark011

Guys what colour is exactly the plexyglass on the Primo? Do you think this would match?










i need a colour that would be as mutch as the same of the original for my new window


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

I have some questions regarding this chassis, not sure if this is the best place to post it but I'm cross posting this from [H]:

I'm going to be assembling my new loop (hopefully) next week and have some questions. Here's what I'm thinking of:










Bigger: http://i.imgur.com/fdgG1ED.jpg

Components:
Phanteks Enthoo Primo (Black/Red edition)
Delidded/Lapped i7 4790K with XSPC Raystorm (Black aluminium bracket + Red faceplate)
ASUS Maximus Hero VI (Black/Red, Thanks to Dangman for the suggestion and mothman for the input)
G.Skill Trident X 2400 (Black/Red)
MSI 290X Lightning with EK Full Cover Block + Backplate
Antec HCP-1300 Platinum
Samsung 850 Pro 256 GB
Crucial M500 240 GB
16x Corsair SP 120 Quiet Edition (With red rings)
Reeven Six Eyes II Fan Controller (Thanks to Tsumi for the suggestion)
2x Hardware Labs Black Ice Nemesis GTX 480 (Thanks to Tsumi for the kickass recommendation)
XSPC D5 Photon Pump/Res
Primoflex Advanced LRT (7/16" ID, 5/8" OD, Bloodshed Red)
(No optical drives, just the fan controller. No spinning disks either.)

My questions are:
1. Will the D5 Photon fit there? The Black Ice Nemesis GTX 480 is 54mm high so with 25mm fans in P/P it would be 104mm total. Also, the MSI Lightning 290X has a slightly higher PCB ( http://i.imgur.com/7yi5lv7.png ), so would that prevent me from fitting the side panel on or even installing it?
2. Would there be any other good place for the res/pump? I can't mount it where the res bracket is ( http://cdn.overclock.net/e/ee/500x1000px-LL-ee575342_P1010034.jpeg ) as the lightning is almost 12" long. I am going to either run with the side piece that holds the optical bays off, or mod it like this btw (due to rad being extra wide): http://i.imgur.com/P42vQsQ.jpg
3. Depending on questions #1 and #2, what's the best route to take so I don't have tubing going all over the place and looking like ass?
4. One thing I'm a bit held up on is the rads since they have a front-back flow pattern instead of left-right: http://martinsliquidlab.i4memory.com/img/HWlabs480GTX2PassFlow.png Should I be concerned with optimizing this or does it not matter as much since I have the fans in push/pull config?

Any input would be great, thanks!


----------



## taem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxdarkreap3rxx*
> 
> I1. Will the D5 Photon fit there? The Black Ice Nemesis GTX 480 is 54mm high so with 25mm fans in P/P it would be 104mm total. Also, the MSI Lightning 290X has a slightly higher PCB ( http://i.imgur.com/7yi5lv7.png ), so would that prevent me from fitting the side panel on or even installing it?!


Will that rad fit in the bottom? Everyone seems to use alphacool nexxxos rads on the bottom because they're the narrowest -- and they barely fit. I think that rad you're thinking to use is a good 8mm or so wider than a nexxxos and off hand I'd say it's no go unless you plan to cut out the panel with the Phanteks logo plate that hides the hdd cages.


----------



## Wallboy

One of my questions about what case fans I'm thinking of getting for the Luxe got lost back a page. I'm thinking of replacing the front 200mm with 2 Noctua 140mm NF-A14 fans, and also replace the 2 exhaust fans with NF-A14's as well.

Is equal air going in and out alright? They are all PWM as well and the VII Hero which I'm likely getting happens to have True PWM fans for all headers. So I might as well use them.

What do you guys think?


----------



## benbenkr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wallboy*
> 
> One of my questions about what case fans I'm thinking of getting for the Luxe got lost back a page. I'm thinking of replacing the front 200mm with 2 Noctua 140mm NF-A14 fans, and also replace the 2 exhaust fans with NF-A14's as well.
> 
> Is equal air going in and out alright? They are all PWM as well and the VII Hero which I'm likely getting happens to have True PWM fans for all headers. So I might as well use them.
> 
> What do you guys think?


Not too keen on your choice of fans, but yeah 2 in and 2 out is okay. Although having 2 in front, 1 in top (mid), and just 1 exhaust back is okay too IMO.


----------



## Wallboy

NF-A14's no good? I thought Noctua were some of the best performance to noise ratio fans out there. What fans do you think are better?


----------



## maskymus

[quote name="xxdarkreap3rxx" url="/t/1418637/official-case-phanteks-club-enthoo-primo-enthoo-luxe-enthoo-pro-lovers-owners/8460#post_23606494"
My questions are:
1. Will the D5 Photon fit there? The Black Ice Nemesis GTX 480 is 54mm high so with 25mm fans in P/P it would be 104mm total. Also, the MSI Lightning 290X has a slightly higher PCB ( http://i.imgur.com/7yi5lv7.png ), so would that prevent me from fitting the side panel on or even installing it?
2. Would there be any other good place for the res/pump? I can't mount it where the res bracket is ( http://cdn.overclock.net/e/ee/500x1000px-LL-ee575342_P1010034.jpeg ) as the lightning is almost 12" long. I am going to either run with the side piece that holds the optical bays off, or mod it like this btw (due to rad being extra wide): http://i.imgur.com/P42vQsQ.jpg
3. Depending on questions #1 and #2, what's the best route to take so I don't have tubing going all over the place and looking like ass?
4. One thing I'm a bit held up on is the rads since they have a front-back flow pattern instead of left-right: http://martinsliquidlab.i4memory.com/img/HWlabs480GTX2PassFlow.png Should I be concerned with optimizing this or does it not matter as much since I have the fans in push/pull config?
[/quote]

1. Most probably not, Photon will fit with something like Nvidia GPU standard width. Can't say anything with MSI Lightning.
2. I can suggest divide pump and res into two units and use a bay res. As for me I managed to install Bitspower res/pump combo behind the bottom rad (check my build log for more info). Another option is to use smal pump/res combo and mount it on one of 120mm fan place on rad with some sort of holding bracket.
3. It really depends on the configuration and after you choose the components you can plan the routing.
4. You shouldn't worry about the flow, but the radiators width. You won't be able to fit in the bottom rads with width over 125mm without case mods.


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *taem*
> 
> Will that rad fit in the bottom? Everyone seems to use alphacool nexxxos rads on the bottom because they're the narrowest -- and they barely fit. I think that rad you're thinking to use is a good 8mm or so wider than a nexxxos and off hand I'd say it's no go unless you plan to cut out the panel with the Phanteks logo plate that hides the hdd cages.


Yeah, I wrote in one of the other questions that I would either run with the piece off or mod it like the one in the pic. I was going to go with a Monsta originally but it was OOS at PPCs so I asked someone for a recommendation and found that the nemesis is awesome. It did well (best for I think 800 to 1800 rpm) on the quad rad round up posted here a few months ago.


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *maskymus*
> 
> 1. Most probably not, Photon will fit with something like Nvidia GPU standard width. Can't say anything with MSI Lightning.
> 2. I can suggest divide pump and res into two units and use a bay res. As for me I managed to install Bitspower res/pump combo behind the bottom rad (check my build log for more info). Another option is to use smal pump/res combo and mount it on one of 120mm fan place on rad with some sort of holding bracket.
> 3. It really depends on the configuration and after you choose the components you can plan the routing.
> 4. You shouldn't worry about the flow, but the radiators width. You won't be able to fit in the bottom rads with width over 125mm without case mods.


May I trouble you for some measurements in mm for how much space there is between the top of a regular video card and the side (so it won't protrude from the chassis and prevent the side panel from being installed)? How much space is there vertically anyway? I could always adjust the back 140 a little higher or remove it if need be.

That may be a good place to mount it if need be. Hopefully someone could provide me with some measurements so I can get an idea of what to do. Damn lighting is just so large it could ruin 2 available positions for mounting it :/ Dear AMD, please release the 300 series soon.


----------



## maskymus

Rough measurements (I have reference Nvidia 780):
1) from top of card to the side: approx. 90mm ((if you want to use SLI then deduct few mm for SLI bridge)).
Photo with the closed side panel:

2) from the back till the inlet/outlet part of EK block: approx. 80mm
3) Can't say anything about vertical length, as you didn't specify what exactly measurement you want, but here is the photo with push-pull Alphacool Monsta rad:


Pictures are made by Sony NEX-6, so they should be very scalable.


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *maskymus*
> 
> Rough measurements (I have reference Nvidia 780):
> 1) from top of card to the side: approx. 90mm ((if you want to use SLI then deduct few mm for SLI bridge)).
> Photo with the closed side panel:
> 
> 2) from the back till the inlet/outlet part of EK block: approx. 80mm
> 3) Can't say anything about vertical length, as you didn't specify what exactly measurement you want, but here is the photo with push-pull Alphacool Monsta rad:
> 
> 
> Pictures are made by Sony NEX-6, so they should be very scalable.


Thanks for the help, I greatly appreciate it. I took some measurements of my 290X:





and it looks to be maybe 7/8" or about 22.5mm higher. That would leave 67.5mm for the res. According to this post: http://www.overclock.net/t/1432177/xspc-photon-glass-reservoir-d5-pump-combo/20#post_21252701 the glass is 73mm so it seems it will not work there.


----------



## SYPH

Do you guys know when the ATX version of the Evolv will be released?


----------



## taem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxdarkreap3rxx*
> 
> Yeah, I wrote in one of the other questions that I would either run with the piece off or mod it like the one in the pic. I was going to go with a Monsta originally but it was OOS at PPCs so I asked someone for a recommendation and found that the nemesis is awesome. It did well (best for I think 800 to 1800 rpm) on the quad rad round up posted here a few months ago.


Did you already get the rad? Didn't see that quad roundup but looking at martinm's roundup of triples I dunno about cutting out that nice side panel on the Primo for this performance difference between that rad and the Alphacool UT60.






Especially since you'll be running dual 480s. Assuming the HW rad is better, what's going to be the real world impact? A quarter of a degree maybe?

Looks like a good rad though and I've heard HW rads have much better finish and build quality than Alphacool. Not to mention how filthy Alphacools are when you get them, it's like they add gunk before they ship them out, all sorts of stuff are coming out of my 420 and 280. I do like the 7 ports on the Alphacools though.

Btw this issue came up a long time ago in this thread, the XT45s do have that 7th bleed/drain port.


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *taem*
> 
> Did you already get the rad? Didn't see that quad roundup but looking at martinm's roundup of triples I dunno about cutting out that nice side panel on the Primo for this performance difference between that rad and the Alphacool UT60.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Especially since you'll be running dual 480s. Assuming the HW rad is better, what's going to be the real world impact? A quarter of a degree maybe?
> 
> Looks like a good rad though and I've heard HW rads have much better finish and build quality than Alphacool. Not to mention how filthy Alphacools are when you get them, it's like they add gunk before they ship them out, all sorts of stuff are coming out of my 420 and 280. I do like the 7 ports on the Alphacools though.
> 
> Btw this issue came up a long time ago in this thread, the XT45s do have that 7th bleed/drain port.


The original plan was UT60 480 on top, Monsta 480 on bottom but PPCs was sold out of both (Monsta just came back in stock but UT60 is still OOS) so I looked for alternatives. That's when I found someone on [H] who recommended the Black Ice Nemesis GTX. After some searching, I came across this thread: http://www.overclock.net/t/1520512/the-quad-rad-roundup where various 480s were tested and the Nesmsis GTX performed very well. Not only that, the reviewer said it didn't have any residue in it so it seems Hardware Labs makes some quality products that look really cool too. It's a bit unfortunate that it won't fit in the chassis (bought them already but PPCs hasn't shipped yet) without modifications since its too wide but I'm set on using it as I'm going with 16x SP120 Quiet Edition fans which run at a max of 1450 RPM (I'm going to be scaling down to 1000-1200 RPM with a fan controller). From the previous thread, the Monsta performs poorly in comparison to the other rads at that RPM so I don't think it's worth going with it in my build. Either way, it doesn't really matter because I've already confirmed my D5 Photon will neither fit in the little reservoir area near the back of the chassis (due to the Lightning 290X having a higher PCB of ~7/8") nor the reservoir bracket to the right of the motherboard (due to the card having a longer PCB, ~12", than the bracket supports, ~10.5"). My current plans are taking the side panel out, and then drilling the rivets out to remove the optical drive bays and placing the photon somewhere here:



That will allow the D5 to fit and not interfere with the bottom plate from the optical drive bays. I'm just trying to figure out the tubing situation right now and have some plans (as seen in the picture). I'm thinking of using some 45 degree angled fittings where the white portions are and think it may be worth it to use one for the bottom rad (going from pump->bottom rad) and perhaps from the top rad->CPU and CPU->res (both angled fittings on the CPU block). What do you guys think of that? I was thinking of getting some 90 degree fittings for the inlet/outlet on the pump but read it's not optimal (from Martin) and there should be 1-2" of tubing after the inlet/outlet. What brands are good for angled rotary fittings btw? I've heard some horror stories about leaking and am a bit worried if I should even go with angled rotary fittings or not. Some of them (Bitspower) are also ridiculously expensive while others (XSPC, Phobya) are pretty damn affordable. Would I need extenders to use for 90 degree and 45 degree fittings on the rads since they'd interfere with the fans? What's a good size for extenders if so, 10mm, 15mm, 20mm?

Edit: I believe a 2nd option may be mounting it similar to how maskymus did it. Since the back is where the PSU is held, that would mean there's about 90mm of space there and the D5 is 250 x 85 x 85mm. How much space is there between the bottom before it hits the optical bay slots?

Edit 2: In maskymus's pic, I'm conservatively eyeballing ~17cm from the "bottom" to where the optical bays are. Monsta = 80mm, fans = 2x 25mm, +170mm = 300mm of total space. Seems about right as they say the chassis is 650mm tall and the back looks like:


----------



## maskymus

My build is functionality over looks and my main concern is to use any component (gpu, motherboard etc.) without any additional modding the case or completely different water loop layout. That's why I used right part of the case to mount the res and pump although I can mount it on the bracket.
Photos with measurements for xxdarkreap3rxx:


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!








Edit:
Depth:
PSU side - 87mm
HDD side - 90mm


----------



## Faster_is_better

Does the USB 3.0 ports at the top of anyone's Primo actually work at "Super Speed USB 3.0" speeds? I'm pretty sure I plugged it into my 3.0 header on the motherboard, but when I put in a USB 3 flash drive Windows pops up and says "this device can perform faster etc...." Then if I plug it directly into the back of the PC it doesn't have any issue. I guess it could be the flash drive itself?

Edit: Nevermind, Looks like it may have worked itself out after a system restart or something. Strange


----------



## GOLDDUBBY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxdarkreap3rxx*
> 
> I have some questions regarding this chassis, not sure if this is the best place to post it but I'm cross posting this from [H]:
> 
> I'm going to be assembling my new loop (hopefully) next week and have some questions. Here's what I'm thinking of:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bigger: http://i.imgur.com/fdgG1ED.jpg
> 
> Components:
> Phanteks Enthoo Primo (Black/Red edition)
> Delidded/Lapped i7 4790K with XSPC Raystorm (Black aluminium bracket + Red faceplate)
> ASUS Maximus Hero VI (Black/Red, Thanks to Dangman for the suggestion and mothman for the input)
> G.Skill Trident X 2400 (Black/Red)
> MSI 290X Lightning with EK Full Cover Block + Backplate
> Antec HCP-1300 Platinum
> Samsung 850 Pro 256 GB
> Crucial M500 240 GB
> 16x Corsair SP 120 Quiet Edition (With red rings)
> Reeven Six Eyes II Fan Controller (Thanks to Tsumi for the suggestion)
> 2x Hardware Labs Black Ice Nemesis GTX 480 (Thanks to Tsumi for the kickass recommendation)
> XSPC D5 Photon Pump/Res
> Primoflex Advanced LRT (7/16" ID, 5/8" OD, Bloodshed Red)
> (No optical drives, just the fan controller. No spinning disks either.)
> 
> My questions are:
> 1. Will the D5 Photon fit there? The Black Ice Nemesis GTX 480 is 54mm high so with 25mm fans in P/P it would be 104mm total. Also, the MSI Lightning 290X has a slightly higher PCB ( http://i.imgur.com/7yi5lv7.png ), so would that prevent me from fitting the side panel on or even installing it?
> 2. Would there be any other good place for the res/pump? I can't mount it where the res bracket is ( http://cdn.overclock.net/e/ee/500x1000px-LL-ee575342_P1010034.jpeg ) as the lightning is almost 12" long. I am going to either run with the side piece that holds the optical bays off, or mod it like this btw (due to rad being extra wide): http://i.imgur.com/P42vQsQ.jpg
> 3. Depending on questions #1 and #2, what's the best route to take so I don't have tubing going all over the place and looking like ass?
> 4. One thing I'm a bit held up on is the rads since they have a front-back flow pattern instead of left-right: http://martinsliquidlab.i4memory.com/img/HWlabs480GTX2PassFlow.png Should I be concerned with optimizing this or does it not matter as much since I have the fans in push/pull config?
> 
> Any input would be great, thanks!


You will run in to a problem there with the resevoir placement and the Lightning pcb being so wide. Fortunately phantek were kind enough to perforate that section so I just moved the reservoir holders and attached them using the honeycomb holes.

Still is a bit of a tight squeeze, tho. Just a heads up


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GOLDDUBBY*
> 
> You will run in to a problem there with the resevoir placement and the Lightning pcb being so wide. Fortunately phantek were kind enough to perforate that section so I just moved the reservoir holders and attached them using the honeycomb holes.
> 
> Still is a bit of a tight squeeze, tho. Just a heads up


You actually got yours to work? I have some measurements (see my previous post below) and it seems there's only 90mm between the side panel and the video card bracket. I measured my Lightning 290X and it protrudes 7/8" so that combined with the res is too much:

http://www.overclock.net/t/1418637/official-case-phanteks-club-enthoo-primo-enthoo-luxe-enthoo-pro-lovers-owners/8470#post_23607693


----------



## GOLDDUBBY

Well mine is 780 lightning, and EK res. Tons of space for that as you can see


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GOLDDUBBY*
> 
> Well mine is 780 lightning, and EK res. Tons of space for that as you can see
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Lucky you! If you have one of them from this page: http://www.ekwb.com/shop/reservoirs-and-acc/res-pump-combo/ek-d5.html they all read 60mm diameter for the tube reservoirs which would be enough room for the 290X Lightning (~67mm room, prob around the same for 780 Lightning) but the XSPC D5 is 73mm in diameter


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

Here are my options for mounting the D5 then:

Option 1 - Next to the motherboard. Will remove the side piece + drill out rivets to remove optical bays so it looks exactly like this:

*Artists interpretation

Option 2 (I prefer this one) - Behind the bottom 480 radiator in the space where the optional side radiator could be mounted:


I like option 2 and mounting it with industrial strength Velcro on the back: http://static1.squarespace.com/static/51998404e4b0ef02d1bd9c2c/5199c340e4b00822eb87eaa7/5243df4ee4b0314d3271fa39/1380179792433/170-back.jpg Only downside is I can't use the 3rd port (inlet) for my drain port as I've been doing all along.

Opinions?


----------



## GOLDDUBBY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxdarkreap3rxx*
> 
> Lucky you! If you have one of them from this page: http://www.ekwb.com/shop/reservoirs-and-acc/res-pump-combo/ek-d5.html they all read 60mm diameter for the tube reservoirs which would be enough room for the 290X Lightning (~67mm room, prob around the same for 780 Lightning) but the XSPC D5 is 73mm in diameter


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxdarkreap3rxx*
> 
> Here are my options for mounting the D5 then:
> 
> Option 1 - Next to the motherboard. Will remove the side piece + drill out rivets to remove optical bays so it looks exactly like this:
> 
> *Artists interpretation
> 
> Option 2 (I prefer this one) - Behind the bottom 480 radiator in the space where the optional side radiator could be mounted:
> 
> 
> I like option 2 and mounting it with industrial strength Velcro on the back: http://static1.squarespace.com/static/51998404e4b0ef02d1bd9c2c/5199c340e4b00822eb87eaa7/5243df4ee4b0314d3271fa39/1380179792433/170-back.jpg Only downside is I can't use the 3rd port (inlet) for my drain port as I've been doing all along.
> 
> Opinions?


No, I have 2 dcp pumps gpu-loop / cpu-loop, in that rig.

I'm considering a mod to it, removing the side piece, but I would like to leave the inner "side piece" because I got some ssd's attached to the back of that .. hmm

Oh, and since you're going for a radiator in the front, can't you just radiator mount the res/pump ?


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GOLDDUBBY*
> 
> No, I have 2 dcp pumps gpu-loop / cpu-loop, in that rig.
> 
> I'm considering a mod to it, removing the side piece, but I would like to leave the inner "side piece" because I got some ssd's attached to the back of that .. hmm
> 
> Oh, and since you're going for a radiator in the front, can't you just radiator mount the res/pump ?


Sorry about that, I meant the reservoirs are mostly the same (60mm) so they will fit with a Lightning's extended PCB.

That isn't my chassis XD, that's just a stripped one I found on Google images so I could get a clean example. I'm going 2x Black Ice Nemesis GTX 480s, one on top and one on bottom so I have those two areas to reuse my D5. I'm thinking the bottom mounting (mounting it with Velcro to where the front of the chassis is in green) is the better place. I still have to mod the side panel and cut it in half though to fit the fatter 480.


----------



## GOLDDUBBY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxdarkreap3rxx*
> 
> Sorry about that, I meant the reservoirs are mostly the same (60mm) so they will fit with a Lightning's extended PCB.
> 
> That isn't my chassis XD, that's just a stripped one I found on Google images so I could get a clean example. I'm going 2x Black Ice Nemesis GTX 480s, one on top and one on bottom so I have those two areas to reuse my D5. I'm thinking the bottom mounting (mounting it with Velcro to where the front of the chassis is in green) is the better place. I still have to mod the side panel and cut it in half though to fit the fatter 480.


Can't you just use the intended "reservoir bracket" .. trim it down to fit the length of a longer card, using a dremel or hack saw or teeth ^_^ what ever it takes

















By Unicr0nhunter
.


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GOLDDUBBY*
> 
> Can't you just use the intended "reservoir bracket" .. trim it down to fit the length of a longer card, using a dremel or hack saw or teeth ^_^ what ever it takes
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> By Unicr0nhunter
> .


Not quite, as the optical bay piece gets in the way:



That's why I had option #1 of removing the side piece (with Phanteks logo on it), then that leaves the "L" (for optical drives above) which will need to be riveted out so there's enough room to mount it.

Also in your picture, there's only 63mm before it hits the optical bays. 290X Lightning is about 300mm long so that's like 40mm left for a res







That's why I'm thinking option #2 was the better option.


----------



## GOLDDUBBY

There's no play to keep the res above the hdd cages ? ... if you only go for pull /or/ push, that way you can mount only the radiator actually inside of the case, and the fans in the 'fan trench' on top.

The lightning in my rig is 31cm in length and I used to have the res on the resmount overlapping the end of the card slightly

nvm the aesthetics, I like pasta










Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!















.


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GOLDDUBBY*
> 
> There's no play to keep the res above the hdd cages ? ... if you only go for pull /or/ push, that way you can mount only the radiator actually inside of the case, and the fans in the 'fan trench' on top.
> .


Eh, the rad will take some space, fans too like you said but that's removable from the bottom. I don't think that's a great place for the D5 as it'd be a ***** to fill and I'm not sure if it would even fit with a radiator in the top.

I'm just going to mount it in that little area in green (from the above pic) and figure out tubing tonight. Are XSPC angled rotary fittings OK to use? I've heard a lot of horror stories about leaking from rotaries from most brands and I'd rather not spend $16 each for them (Bitspower so pricey).


----------



## maskymus

I haven't used XSPC, but all Bitspower rotary fittings I've bought don't leak. If you're looking for some cheaper brand, I can also recommend Barrow fittings - there are a lot of positive reviews about them.


----------



## Mark011

There are Nanoxia coolforce too, same as barrow and bitspower


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Those new colored EK fittings look interesting but I have no info on quality etc yet. An example:

http://www.performance-pcs.com/ek-acf-compression-fitting-10-16mm-3-8-x-5-8-blue.html


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

Thanks. I went with EK angled rotaries as Mark suggested in a PM. They seem similar in design to Bitspower ones with a fairly good build quality and were 1/2 the cost.

What do you guys think of this loop below? Note: The XSPC D5 pump/res will be in the green area from the previous post (i.e. in the back area area where the PSU goes, except towards the front of the chassis instead of the back).

pump outlet -> bottom radiator inlet (one that is deeper in the chassis) with a 90 degree rotary adapter on a 20mm extender
bottom radiator outlet (one that is closer to the side panel with the window) -> GPU block inlet with a 45 degree rotary adapter
GPU block outlet with a 45 degree rotary adapter -> top radiator inlet (the one that is farther away from the motherboard)
top radiator outlet (one that is closest to the motherboard) -> CPU block inlet with a 45 degree rotary adapter
CPU block outlet with a 45 degree adapter) -> pump inlet

for the CPU block outlet to pump inlet, I'm thinking of doing something like having the tubing horizontal and then bending it into a wide "L" to drop it down vertically and then using a 90 degree adapter with fittings on each end and then having a few inches of tubing that goes into a regular fitting on the inlet. Maybe I can use one of the rubber grommets and put tubing through that so the drop down won't look as ugly because I'm modding the chassis by cutting that side piece with the Phanteks logo in half to fit the rad. It will show the reservoir and whatever else is there so it may look weird having this red tubing just dropping down vertically.

I hope I explained that well enough.


----------



## GOLDDUBBY

If you've read a couple of build logs, maybe you could make one of your own. Interesting to watch, and you can get alot of really good input and suggestions from the people on this forum.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

So I've seen a few pics of Primos with shorter tube reservoirs-with pumps too-mounted to the rear below the exhaust fan area but not sure how&#8230;is this something specific to the Primo? I know it includes the pump bracket I can buy separately but not sure about res mounts&#8230;


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> So I've seen a few pics of Primos with shorter tube reservoirs-with pumps too-mounted to the rear below the exhaust fan area but not sure how&#8230;is this something specific to the Primo? I know it includes the pump bracket I can buy separately but not sure about res mounts&#8230;
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Image


The Primo just has a mounting area on the back of the case with slots to fit some common tube reservoir mounts.
See here:


----------



## Wallboy

Are any of the front panel connectors removable on the Enthoo Luxe? Like the front audio connectors, etc. I won't be using those at all and would like to disconnect the cable completely for cable management sakes. How about any of the other connectors. Don't suppose anyone has a picture of the back of this panel with the connections coming out of it?

Thanks.


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wallboy*
> 
> Are any of the front panel connectors removable on the Enthoo Luxe? Like the front audio connectors, etc. I won't be using those at all and would like to disconnect the cable completely for cable management sakes. How about any of the other connectors. Don't suppose anyone has a picture of the back of this panel with the connections coming out of it?
> 
> Thanks.


yes you can disconnect the audio wire. I have an extra front audio pcb as mine was bust so I did an rma. I'd take a pic but I have no camera and no phone right now until I buy my buddy's Note 4.


----------



## emsj86

I don't see the purpose of removing the front audio connections outside of if your an is to rove the entire front panel audio/usb 2 and. 3 ports. He canle is very small for ge audio and can be ticked away no problem. The usb 3 on the other hand is large and wouldn't hurt to remove. It can be removed thought if needed/wanted


----------



## Harrywang

Hey guys. I'm planning on buying this case soon. Does it come with a motherboard back plate?? I lost mine.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Harrywang*
> 
> Hey guys. I'm planning on buying this case soon. Does it come with a motherboard back plate?? I lost mine.


backplate comes with motherboards and some coolers so no....they could never account for ask the motherboards


----------



## Harrywang

Thanks for the quick reply. I guess the only way to get one is from the manufacturer itself??

Another question. I have an old case that I plan on upgrading from (Haf 912). I plan on using my old fans for the new case. What would be the best set up for air cooling?? I don't care about sound to much. I'll be using my old 2 200m megaflow coolermaster fans and 1 120mm fan and an old unknown brand 140mm fan + the new fans you get from the phantek.


----------



## Sem

Guys need a little help with something here is my current build



i have the res/pump attached to the HDD cage

but im looking to get a 1200W PSU so i can no longer have the 240 in the bottom so i will move it to the front intake

i have a bitspower 150 upgrade kit which comes with legs that will allow me to mount it vertically attached to the bottom

the only problem is the mounting holes on the bottom of the case do not match up

Anyone got any ideas on how i can mount it to the bottom

i think cable ties should work between the fan holes at the bottom but i would prefer screws

similar to this build on the [H] forum



http://hardforum.com/showthread.php?t=760053&page=55


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

Nice, my chassis came today. Hopefully it isn't all ****ed up from the trip to MA from California. Can anyone recommend a good brand jigsaw blade for cutting the side piece? From what I've read, something like this would be good: http://www.homedepot.com/p/Bosch-3-in-36-TPI-HSS-Shank-Jigsaw-Blade-5-Pack-T118G/202242703?N=5yc1vZc2jeZ1z0ucdsZ1z13133 due to having 36 teeth per inch. What about lube?

Does Phanteks also sell replacement parts? Would be good to have an untouched spare.


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Harrywang*
> 
> Hey guys. I'm planning on buying this case soon. Does it come with a motherboard back plate?? I lost mine.


what case?


----------



## Harrywang

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PureBlackFire*
> 
> what case?


You mean motherboard?? It's an asrock z68 extreme3 gen3


----------



## Mark011

Hey guys Project Prime has been nominated for the Bit Tech's Mod of The Month February 2015! It's the one of the first Phanteks Primo who join a contest, If you have an account on the BIT TECH forum go and vote for PRIME BY MARK011!!!

http://forums.bit-tech.net/showthread.php?t=282062

thanks!


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Harrywang*
> 
> You mean motherboard?? It's an asrock z68 extreme3 gen3


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Harrywang*
> 
> Hey guys. I*'m planning on buying this case soon*. Does it come with a motherboard back plate?? I lost mine.


----------



## Harrywang

Oh the pro. I'm sorry about that haha


----------



## SouthernStyle

Been lurking this thread for a while, here is my LSU themed Luxe (The Bayou Beast):

ASRock Z97 OC Formula
4790k @ 4800Mhz - 1.3v
16GB G.Skill Trident-X 2400Mhz
(2x) Sapphire Vapor-X 290
Intel 730 480GB SSD
WD Black 2TB HDD
Alphacool 240x45
Alphacool 360x30
XSPC Photon 170 D5
XSPC Raystorm CPU Block
Monsoon Fittings
(12x) Cooler Master JetFlo 120mm









Full Album:


http://imgur.com/yDXNJ


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sem*
> 
> Guys need a little help with something here is my current build
> 
> 
> 
> i have the res/pump attached to the HDD cage
> 
> but im looking to get a 1200W PSU so i can no longer have the 240 in the bottom so i will move it to the front intake
> 
> i have a bitspower 150 upgrade kit which comes with legs that will allow me to mount it vertically attached to the bottom
> 
> the only problem is the mounting holes on the bottom of the case do not match up
> 
> Anyone got any ideas on how i can mount it to the bottom
> 
> i think cable ties should work between the fan holes at the bottom but i would prefer screws
> 
> similar to this build on the [H] forum
> 
> 
> 
> http://hardforum.com/showthread.php?t=760053&page=55


Bust out a drill or try the Pump bracket and mount that than you it will line up on the po bracket if not two drilled holes will fix it


----------



## Reaper28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sem*
> 
> Guys need a little help with something here is my current build
> 
> 
> 
> i have the res/pump attached to the HDD cage
> 
> but im looking to get a 1200W PSU so i can no longer have the 240 in the bottom so i will move it to the front intake
> 
> i have a bitspower 150 upgrade kit which comes with legs that will allow me to mount it vertically attached to the bottom
> 
> the only problem is the mounting holes on the bottom of the case do not match up
> 
> Anyone got any ideas on how i can mount it to the bottom
> 
> i think cable ties should work between the fan holes at the bottom but i would prefer screws
> 
> similar to this build on the [H] forum
> 
> 
> 
> http://hardforum.com/showthread.php?t=760053&page=55


Nice build


----------



## emsj86

I have an idea to cut my non window side panel on my pro than cut out a window and cut out a 240 size rad. Any ideas on how to cut out vent holes so it doesn't look as if there just drilled out. My idea was to cut with a dremel and jigsaw a rectangle shape of a. 240 rad on bottom right of the side panel (towards the front of the case. Than mount the same cut size but of acrylic and secure it to the back of the panel. This way I can get a 240 rad grill and have it be flush to the panel. Than mount the rad with a make shift bracket. All in all I would end up with a side panel with a new window and side mount radiator. Any other ideas or suggestions on how to do this


----------



## Sem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Bust out a drill or try the Pump bracket and mount that than you it will line up on the po bracket if not two drilled holes will fix it


Guessing i can drill it at first i didn't want to make any permanent mods to the case but you can buy extra pump mounts separately so i think i might go down that route

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Reaper28*
> 
> Nice build


Thanks


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sem*
> 
> Guessing i can drill it at first i didn't want to make any permanent mods to the case but you can buy extra pump mounts separately so i think i might go down that route
> Thanks


. I know your going a different route but works the same. As seen in the picture I got a Po bracket. Than drilled the a few holes in the bracket. And mounted my ek heat to it than mount it directly to the fans.it actually made it in audible. I had it on the drive cages before which worked but it had some noise from time to time


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> The Primo just has a mounting area on the back of the case with slots to fit some common tube reservoir mounts.
> See here:


Thanks (and +rep). You even linked me to the right part of the vid.









So looking closer at my Pro I don't have the side slots for reservoir mounts on the rear wall cage next to the expansion card brackets but I do have two center ones including one additional small round hole in the middle. Upon measuring it looks like my 140mm EK top and DDC might just fit back there (7 inches tall&#8230;ugh I wish we used the metric system).


----------



## emsj86

Does anyone with the pro or luxe know if you can have a 240 rad on bottom and up front or with one set of fans or will the front rad interfere with the bottom rad/fan


----------



## wrigleyvillain

I don't know about a 240 but a single 140mm would probably fit. Like a UT60 maybe?


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Does anyone with the pro or luxe know if you can have a 240 rad on bottom and up front or with one set of fans or will the front rad interfere with the bottom rad/fan


you can put two 240 rad like that no problem. as long as your psu isn't 8.5"> long and the front rad is 35mm thick max. basically it's the same as the 750D but the front mount is lower and the bottom mount is further back from the front.


----------



## J4CKTH0MA5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PureBlackFire*
> 
> you can put two 240 rad like that no problem. as long as your psu isn't 8.5"> long and the front rad is 35mm thick max. basically it's the same as the 750D but the front mount is lower and the bottom mount is further back from the front.


So one of these in the front and on the bottom wouldn't fit on the luxe?

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835106258&cm_re=pacific_radiator-_-35-106-258-_-Product


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Ugh, even if it would fit you still really might want to pick a different radiator than that aluminum one. It'd be really hard to build a loop around that rad that wouldn't be a corrosion time bomb. I can't hardly believe anyone is still selling aluminum rads these days much less wanting that much for one. Ridiculous imho.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

No Thermaltake, man. Even if was not aluminum I would not touch that rad&#8230;I dont care if it's 80% off at a closing Radio Shack (Hail Hydra).

Perhaps not all of their products are crap across the board&#8230;but main cooling components? No way. _Especially_ water.


----------



## J4CKTH0MA5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> No Thermaltake, man. Even if was not aluminum I would not touch that rad&#8230;I dont care if it's 80% off at a closing Radio Shack (Hail Hydra).
> 
> Perhaps not all of their products are crap across the board&#8230;but main cooling components? No way. _Especially_ water.


Sorry I'm new to watercooling so I didn't really know much about quality. Does it really suck that bad?


----------



## J4CKTH0MA5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Ugh, even if it would fit you still really might want to pick a different radiator than that aluminum one. It'd be really hard to build a loop around that rad that wouldn't be a corrosion time bomb. I can't hardly believe anyone is still selling aluminum rads these days much less wanting that much for one. Ridiculous imho.


What brand do you recommend getting then as far as pump, radiator, reservoir?


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *J4CKTH0MA5*
> 
> So one of these in the front and on the bottom wouldn't fit on the luxe?
> 
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835106258&cm_re=pacific_radiator-_-35-106-258-_-Product


no. and for thick rads, better to place them on the floor than the front if you are going for two. I have an idea to put 5 rads in a Luxe. 3 240 rads (bottom, front and side), a 360 rad up top and a 120 rad on the rear fan mount.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Alphacool, Hardware Labs, Swiftech, EK, Magicool, XSPC, just to name a few. You'll have an easier time finding suitable watercooling products for a custom loop on a site that specializes in such things, like Performance PCs.

If you could find all the other things you need for a loop made out of aluminum, including fittings, blocks, radiators, etc, then it wouldn't be bad as far as corrosion goes (neverminding the fact that aluminum doesn't transfer heat as well as copper, so it's much less efficient for use in something like a rad or a block), but more often than not those things are going to be made of brass, copper, nickel plated copper, etc. The further two metals are from each other in an anodic index the more galvanic potential they have for corrosion. That's why mixing copper with brass with nickel tends to be ok, but aluminum with any of those, no way.


----------



## J4CKTH0MA5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Alphacool, Hardware Labs, Swiftech, EK, Magicool, XSPC, just to name a few. You'll have an easier time finding suitable watercooling products for a custom loop on a site that specializes in such things, like Performance PCs.
> 
> If you could find all the other things you need for a loop made out of aluminum, including fittings, blocks, radiators, etc, then it wouldn't be bad as far as corrosion goes (neverminding the fact that aluminum doesn't transfer heat as well as copper, so it's much less efficient for use in something like a rad or a block), but more often than not those things are going to be made of brass, copper, nickel plated copper, etc. The further two metals are from each other in an anodic index the more galvanic potential they have for corrosion. That's why mixing copper with brass with nickel tends to be ok, but aluminum with any of those, no way.


Thank you so much for providing that information as I was unaware that it was aluminum and would corrode, wouldn't want that to happen to my new system. I had bought the whole pacific kit - http://www.thermaltake.com/Liquid_Cooler/Liquid_Cooler_/LCS_Kits/C_00002571/Pacific_RL240_Water_Cooling_Kit/design.htm

Good thing is it's not here yet so when it shows up I'll just refuse shipment and get my money back.

Do you know what system would offer the best cooling? I plan on using just distilled water with some biocide in it. The main reason I wanted to go water cooling is so I could overclock the processor more.


----------



## 47 Knucklehead

Just a note, when using that chart, you really want to stay with metals that are 0.15 to MAYBE 0.25 of each other (0.15 or less being ideal). For example, since Copper is commonly used in radiators and it has an index of 0.35 ... you really want to stay between 0.20 and 0.50 (ie Nickel, Copper, Brass, Bronze, and maybe some Chromium steel).

Copper to Aluminum is at least 0.40 away from each other, and will really help what is called Galvanic Corrosion to occur.


----------



## wjturner78

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *47 Knucklehead*
> 
> Just a note, when using that chart, you really want to stay with metals that are 0.15 to MAYBE 0.25 of each other (0.15 or less being ideal). For example, since Copper is commonly used in radiators and it has an index of 0.35 ... you really want to stay between 0.20 and 0.50 (ie Nickel, Copper, Brass, Bronze, and maybe some Chromium steel).
> 
> Copper to Aluminum is at least 0.40 away from each other, and will really help what is called Galvanic Corrosion to occur.


@47 knocklehead. im looking around but cant seem to find an answer, if i have a fill port at the highest point in my case and a drain port at the very lowest will atmospheric pressure evacuate all the fluid without siphoning or tilting? (i have a rad and second res lower in my case than where the drain originates from but higher than where it exits if that makes sense)


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *J4CKTH0MA5*
> 
> Sorry I'm new to watercooling so I didn't really know much about quality. Does it really suck that bad?


That's fine; we all start somewhere. A fully custom loop is hard to resist but I often suggest a complete XSPC or EK "kit" to total noobs just to make sure you get everything you need to start off&#8230;can always swap out parts and/or add to it later on...


----------



## wjturner78

got my fill line and drain valve roughed in


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wjturner78*
> 
> @47 knocklehead. im looking around but cant seem to find an answer, if i have a fill port at the highest point in my case and a drain port at the very lowest will atmospheric pressure evacuate all the fluid without siphoning or tilting? (i have a rad and second res lower in my case than where the drain originates from but higher than where it exits if that makes sense)


Here's how I did my drain and fill ports. The blue plugs came out and were replaced by 40mm extensions and plugs


----------



## pshootr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wjturner78*
> 
> got my fill line and drain valve roughed in
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


That setup for the fill/drain looks nice. Great job man!


----------



## wjturner78

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> Here's how I did my drain and fill ports. The blue plugs came out and were replaced by 40mm extensions and plugs


very nice work, clean, simple, and effective. i seen your pic earlier in the thread and i thought about the same thing but my rad is facing the opposite direction and i couldnt get clearance for the disconect to fit.....


----------



## wjturner78

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pshootr*
> 
> [/SPOILER]
> 
> That setup for the fill/drain looks nice. Great job man!


thanks.... still more work to be done before i can fire it up but its getting close


----------



## Dorito Bandit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SouthernStyle*
> 
> Been lurking this thread for a while, here is my LSU themed Luxe (The Bayou Beast):
> 
> ASRock Z97 OC Formula
> 4790k @ 4800Mhz - 1.3v
> 16GB G.Skill Trident-X 2400Mhz
> (2x) Sapphire Vapor-X 290
> Intel 730 480GB SSD
> WD Black 2TB HDD
> Alphacool 240x45
> Alphacool 360x30
> XSPC Photon 170 D5
> XSPC Raystorm CPU Block
> Monsoon Fittings
> (12x) Cooler Master JetFlo 120mm
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Full Album:
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/yDXNJ


Nice build and name!







It's not Bulldog pretty, but it still looks nice, bro!









And just for you... *GO DAWGS!*


----------



## Reaper28

I wish the Luxe had the same res mount option next to the mobo like the Primo

@wjturner78, thanks for the pic lol I wanted to see how a res would look with a fill tube/port coming out of the top going to the top of the case


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Well dude I just noticed yesterday that it kind of does have such just different layout (in my Pro anyway but they are same more or less).

We don't have the two side slots for screws but there are two slots and one screw hole too in the middle of the "cage" that is the rear wall of case right next to the PCI card brackets. A bracket that secures with one screw in the rear to hold the two ends close together would probably work.


----------



## 47 Knucklehead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wjturner78*
> 
> @47 knocklehead. im looking around but cant seem to find an answer, if i have a fill port at the highest point in my case and a drain port at the very lowest will atmospheric pressure evacuate all the fluid without siphoning or tilting? (i have a rad and second res lower in my case than where the drain originates from but higher than where it exits if that makes sense)


Assuming that you don't have any places in the loop that are low then raise up slightly ... yes, it should drain MOSTLY.

There still can be little pockets where water will sit until you disturb them. By the looks of your loop, from what I can tell, the areas where water may pool is up on your motherboard VRM blocks. But the vast majority should drain out nicely.

That is why some people will get an air hose and put a little positive pressure in the loop to force any remaining water out.

Water (actually any liquid) has what is known as "surface tension", and that is what causes drops to form. So breaking that tension is the only thing, short of evaporation, will get rid of all water.

But the reality is, if you have a fill port at the top and a drain port down low, you will get the vast majority of water out, and if you need to tear your loop down, just put towels over everything and remove what ever component you are working on slowly and carefully and you should be good to go.

Real towels, paper towels, and even 2 rubber stoppers are your best friends.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Nuts I was hoping I could remove just the bottom floor of the 5.25" drive bay area for tube routing ease from front rad but it appears to be a single piece along with the inside wall. I did not want to sacrifice all my bays but I suppose I can get by without installing my blu ray burner internal. I do rarely use it.


----------



## GOLDDUBBY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> Here's how I did my drain and fill ports. The blue plugs came out and were replaced by 40mm extensions and plugs


Will those blue plugs really hold the seal? Thought those were only intended as dust plugs


----------



## tsm106

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GOLDDUBBY*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> Here's how I did my drain and fill ports. *The blue plugs came out and were replaced by 40mm extensions and plugs*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Will those blue plugs really hold the seal? Thought those were only intended as dust plugs
Click to expand...

Look.


----------



## SLOWION

Finally got my hands on a white Enthoo Pro









Didn't put a crazy watercooling build in it but I took some pics anyway. Its definitely a good case for the price














I shot a review on it as well if you happen to care


----------



## SouthernStyle

Quote:


> *GO DAWGS!*


You spelled Geaux wrong!


----------



## wjturner78

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SLOWION*
> 
> Finally got my hands on a white Enthoo Pro
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Didn't put a crazy watercooling build in it but I took some pics anyway. Its definitely a good case for the price
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I shot a review on it as well if you happen to care


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SLOWION*
> 
> Finally got my hands on a white Enthoo Pro
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Didn't put a crazy watercooling build in it but I took some pics anyway. Its definitely a good case for the price
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I shot a review on it as well if you happen to care


clean build... where in AZ are you?


----------



## SLOWION

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wjturner78*
> 
> clean build... where in AZ are you?


Thanks! I'm in Phoenix


----------



## wjturner78

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SLOWION*
> 
> Thanks! I'm in Phoenix


Nice.... I thought I was the only computer geek here in Phoenix


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SLOWION*
> 
> Finally got my hands on a white Enthoo Pro
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Didn't put a crazy watercooling build in it but I took some pics anyway. Its definitely a good case for the price
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I shot a review on it as well if you happen to care


good stuff Jerry. the pics came out great.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wjturner78*
> 
> Nice.... I thought I was the only computer geek here in Phoenix


This is a joke, right? There are 1.5 million people there. They can't all be retired blue hairs. And surely a few of those are geeks too!


----------



## wjturner78

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> This is a joke, right? There are 1.5 million people there. They can't all be retired blue hairs. And surely a few of those are geeks too!


yes of course it'sa joke


----------



## arkansaswoman22

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> This is a joke, right? There are 1.5 million people there. They can't all be retired blue hairs. And surely a few of those are geeks too!


Clearly its a joke....


----------



## Faster_is_better

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wjturner78*
> 
> got my fill line and drain valve roughed in
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Really nice work, is that a 420 in the top? Do you have another picture of the interior but zoomed out a bit, just so I can see how much space the top rad is using?


----------



## wjturner78

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Faster_is_better*
> 
> Really nice work, is that a 420 in the top? Do you have another picture of the interior but zoomed out a bit, just so I can see how much space the top rad is using?


thanks. Yes it'sa 420 up top


----------



## wjturner78

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Faster_is_better*
> 
> Really nice work, is that a 420 in the top? Do you have another picture of the interior but zoomed out a bit, just so I can see how much space the top rad is using?


----------



## SLOWION

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PureBlackFire*
> 
> good stuff Jerry. the pics came out great.


Thank you sir!


----------



## Rainmaker91

Hello everyone, I hvae been building a bit in my Primo for a while now but I haven't really gotten as far as finalizing my designs for it. It takes time drawing by hand and I'm really not talented enough to design it in sketchup, or at least not yet. So I was wondering if anyone knew if there is any models out there to use as a template for my build? I mean I have searched around and I can't seem to find any Enthoo Primo case out there.


----------



## wjturner78

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> Hello everyone, I hvae been building a bit in my Primo for a while now but I haven't really gotten as far as finalizing my designs for it. It takes time drawing by hand and I'm really not talented enough to design it in sketchup, or at least not yet. So I was wondering if anyone knew if there is any models out there to use as a template for my build? I mean I have searched around and I can't seem to find any Enthoo Primo case out there.


I've found that even the best most thought out designs start getting changed quickly once parts start going in. Just get an overall design and goal in your head and start slapping stuff in adjusting as needed while moving along..... that's how I do it anyways....


----------



## Dorito Bandit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SLOWION*
> 
> Finally got my hands on a white Enthoo Pro
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Didn't put a crazy watercooling build in it but I took some pics anyway. Its definitely a good case for the price
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I shot a review on it as well if you happen to care
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Very nice build! I have the black version, but that white version is beautiful too!









By the way, judging from your photos, it looks to me like you haven't completely snapped the top piece all the way down in the middle. Of course you may have since those pics were taken, but just wanted to point that out to you.

I've circled in red where the top appears to not be pressed all the way down.


----------



## Faster_is_better

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wjturner78*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Faster_is_better*
> 
> Really nice work, is that a 420 in the top? Do you have another picture of the interior but zoomed out a bit, just so I can see how much space the top rad is using?
Click to expand...

Thanks for those shots, you really packed that case full. I had to doubletake on it being a Primo and not one of the little brothers, seems like every space is filled lol.


----------



## wjturner78

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Faster_is_better*
> 
> Thanks for those shots, you really packed that case full. I had to doubletake on it being a Primo and not one of the little brothers, seems like every space is filled lol.


you are welcome sir. Yes I have packed it to the brim. Make sure you check out the build log as I keep changing things but it's getting closer to its birthday.


----------



## wjturner78

Stuffing paper towels into your rig and crossing both fingers praying the thing isn't gonna leak is so unnecessary. I'm gonna pump the system up to 10psi with a hand pump let it sit overnight and after 12 or so hours if it holds air then I've got a good shot at it holding water...


----------



## wjturner78

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dorito Bandit*
> 
> [/SPOILER]
> 
> Very nice build! I have the black version, but that white version is beautiful too!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> By the way, judging from your photos, it looks to me like you haven't completely snapped the top piece all the way down in the middle. Of course you may have since those pics were taken, but just wanted to point that out to you.
> 
> I've circled in red where the top appears to not be pressed all the way down.


Good eye, may need you to give my rig a "once over" when I'm done....lol


----------



## Anateus

Is it possible to remove that ugly side panel from inside? Without any modding ofc.


----------



## wjturner78

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anateus*
> 
> Is it possible to remove that ugly side panel from inside? Without any modding ofc.


yes


----------



## kaefers

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> [...]
> The only criticism I might have just looking at those rads as exhaust is that it's likely a negative pressure environment so would be prone to sucking in dust through all the unfiltered openings in the case.


I had a very close look at the Enthoo Luxe but eventually the negative pressure put me off. That's exactly why I went with the Corsair Air 540, although the quality of the Enthoo Luxe is probably better!
I mounted 3x 140mm fans in the front of the Corsair (needs a few drilled holes). Rad at the top as exhaust, and rear exhaust. That's 3 intake vs 3 outtake, while I run the front ever so slightly higher than the rear and the top, in idle only ofc. Also full set of Demciflex filters. Overall, that really keeps the dust out for good.

So many cases are designed without pos / neg pressure in mind. I liked my old NZXT Switch 810 a lot, but it's always dusty unless you take air in on the top. Stupid design choice.
Although quality wise the Corsair Air 540 is not the best by any means (broken plastic HDD tray, side window meh quality, case creeks when getting warm, HDD's cause vibration of the case...) I really love having a near balanced / slighly positive pressure case. The choice with the 1x 200mm front fan in the Luxe - I just don't get it. I hope Phanteks change this in future iterations. I love their fans (using them in my Air 540), but that design was not well thought through. Just ditch all, or all but 1/2, front 5.25" bays (I use a fan controller only and b/c I had space put my BR player in, but never use it anyway), and leave more room for well-filtered! fans at 140mm.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anateus*
> 
> Is it possible to remove that ugly side panel from inside? Without any modding ofc.


I don't know if I'd call it ugly...better than looking at hard drive bays like with almost every other case ever.


----------



## Anateus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> I don't know if I'd call it ugly...better than looking at hard drive bays like with almost every other case ever.


Partially true. Though I am looking for a watercoolable case, so it matters to me alot.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Yeah I'd remove it if you had nice cooling gear in that spot instead...I think I will be leaving mine in though. I am trying to keep my 5.25 bays intact as well.

This series is excellent for water cooling. The Pro/Luxe is _relatively_ cramped (compared to the Primo and other $250+ cases) but still nice to work with and GREAT for the price.

It and all else can absolutely be easily removed cause they use screws not rivets. One of the selling points.


----------



## Anateus

So totally 0 rivets? I had to drill lots of them in my arc midi to fit 360 rad.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

I can't say I have personally had mine all the way apart but I am pretty damn sure that is correct.

Yeah FYI the top of the Pro/Luxe will fit at max a 420 rad, thinner ones only though including with 360s. 45mm too thick.

Not sure about the Primo but can look it up or someone else will pipe in.


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> I can't say I have personally had mine all the way apart but I am pretty damn sure that is correct.
> 
> Yeah FYI the top of the Pro/Luxe will fit at max a 420 rad, thinner ones only though including with 360s. 45mm too thick.
> 
> Not sure about the Primo but can look it up or someone else will pipe in.


The primo can easily fit a 60mm deep rad in the top, and you may even be able to fit an 80mm rad there. That is if you use the 360/480, a 14cm based rad could cause a problem with the mobo, although I doubt it. One thing I did notice in the primo though is that you need to be picky about what radiators you choose if you want a 480 rad in top. if I mount my Phobya 60mm 360 rad all the way to the front then the chamber and end plug will cause problems. It's nothing a dremmel can't fix but it's something to think about. For the bottom though there doesn't seem to be anything stopping you from running up to 10cm+ thick rads (if you can find one), and it fits up to 480mm there to.

The radiator space is one of the big selling points of the Primo, and it solves many things quite well. Not regretting getting this instead of a 900d, looks way better and seems better built. Not to mention it's 3/4 of the price.

Oh and the cover plate screws right off, takes about 2min to do.


----------



## Anateus

How does it compare to 900d space-wise?


----------



## WHIMington

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anateus*
> 
> So totally 0 rivets? I had to drill lots of them in my arc midi to fit 360 rad.


I wouldn't say its totally free of rivets but they are few enough that taking the all these case apart is easy enough.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> I can't say I have personally had mine all the way apart but I am pretty damn sure that is correct.
> 
> Yeah FYI the top of the Pro/Luxe will fit at max a 420 rad, thinner ones only though including with 360s. 45mm too thick.
> 
> Not sure about the Primo but can look it up or someone else will pipe in.


The top of the Luxe can fit a 45mm 420 rad with no major problem if you mount the fans in the top cover, there is just enough room for top cable holes to pass through CPU power, given that you are using soft, flat cables. You do, however, have to be creative with tubings because the 140 fan at the rear will limit your tube route.


----------



## WHIMington

deleted, double post


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anateus*
> 
> How does it compare to 900d space-wise?


if you mean the Primo, then it's got slightly less space available as you don't have that lower level that the 900d has. still you can easily fit a 60mm 480 and a 80+mm 480 at the same time without having any troubles with space. It's fairly versatile and, I simply think a way better "bang for the buck" then the 900d. Well worth it if you want a bigger case that can fit most of your stuff, if I were to recommend anything else thent hat would be something like case labs, but those are crazy expencive and personally I think they look butt ugly.

if you want to compare space then this should show it easily enough:


----------



## Anateus

Thanks! I am quite torn between those two and LD/CaseLabs. Not sure if its worth to spend 950 Euro to get the caselab I want... On the other hand, it beats every other case (quality/space/customisation-wise).


----------



## wjturner78

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> if you mean the Primo, then it's got slightly less space available as you don't have that lower level that the 900d has. still you can easily fit a 60mm 480 and a 80+mm 480 at the same time without having any troubles with space. It's fairly versatile and, I simply think a way better "bang for the buck" then the 900d. Well worth it if you want a bigger case that can fit most of your stuff, if I were to recommend anything else thent hat would be something like case labs, but those are crazy expencive and personally I think they look butt ugly.
> 
> if you want to compare space then this should show it easily enough:


I gotta say I also think case labs are unattractive too boxy


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anateus*
> 
> Thanks! I am quite torn between those two and LD/CaseLabs. Not sure if its worth to spend 950 Euro to get the caselab I want... On the other hand, it beats every other case (quality/space/customisation-wise).


Personally I find the fact that the Primo has a 5 1/4 bay door quite handy, it makes the transition between for example a fan controller and the case far more fluid. But then I have always been a sucker for solutions that hide away the less nice bits of a computer. Not really much other full tower cases I find to be good enough, although some of the old Lian-Li ones are brilliant but has a somewhat dated design today.


----------



## Anateus

Lian Li are really nice, but I hate the way they attach the windows.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WHIMington*
> 
> I wouldn't say its totally free of rivets but they are few enough that taking the all these case apart is easy enough.
> The top of the Luxe can fit a 45mm 420 rad with no major problem if you mount the fans in the top cover, there is just enough room for top cable holes to pass through CPU power, given that you are using soft, flat cables. You do, however, have to be creative with tubings because the 140 fan at the rear will limit your tube route.


25mm fans fit under top cover? Looks to me like too thin. I have Pro but thought same chassis just that Luxe has the bling.


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> 25mm fans fit under top cover? Looks to me like too thin. I have Pro but thought same chassis just that Luxe has the bling.


the luxe can fit a 30mm rad under the top cover.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> 25mm fans fit under top cover? Looks to me like too thin. I have Pro but thought same chassis just that Luxe has the bling.


luxe has taller top panel and slightly taller front to accommodate the taller top and the led strips the interior is otherwise identical...


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Ah that's right somebody already pointed that out to me earlier (side panels are same). Yeah that would be nice to have the extra clearance up there but not worth $50 to me (want to add my own lighting).


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> Ah that's right somebody already pointed that out to me earlier (side panels are same). Yeah that would be nice to have the extra clearance up there but not worth $50 to me (want to add my own lighting).


well I just planned to mid the top and add a lot more space just haven't done it yet...bought video cards and cooling parts first but originally I wanted to add six inches to the top but now I'm thinking 8 is better..and have a large part of my water cooling up there...with smoked acrylic of course


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Cool. Share the details later on, please...


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> Cool. Share the details later on, please...


wouldn't have it any other way...my plans are too reuse the pro top with filters on top and rewire the power switch...but I might get into it and decide the switch should be on the front lol


----------



## emsj86

Need some help to get my mind going. I want to in theorey take my psu from my enthoo pro and mount it up front or in the optical bays with some modding. In order to mount another 360 at the bottom of my case. Any ideas. Note I want it to look nice not hacked up. Here is what I have now.


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anateus*
> 
> Is it possible to remove that ugly side panel from inside? Without any modding ofc.


If you're talking about the Primo, you can remove it easily (all screws) but it looks kind of weird w/o it. I opted to cut it in half with a jigsaw blade and it came out alright. I have some pics in my build log if you want to see.


----------



## rayydawgg

Just would like to confirm that the Enthoo EVOLV can hold the Swiftech H240-X 280mm rad.



However, it can only be mounted towards the back of the case (see position above).


----------



## pshootr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rayydawgg*
> 
> Just would like to confirm that the Enthoo EVOLV can hold the Swiftech H240-X 280mm rad.
> 
> 
> 
> However, it can only be mounted towards the back of the case (see position above).


That is a nice looking build, good job.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

For the cost of that Swiftech unit you should just start building a real CPU loop. An entry-level XSPC kit is about the same. Or go with used parts etc.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> For the cost of that Swiftech unit you should just start building a real CPU loop. An entry-level XSPC kit is about the same. Or go with used parts etc.


Component-wise there is very little difference between the two. The XSPC pump has a little better flow, if I recall correctly, but other than that they are very similar.


----------



## wjturner78

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Component-wise there is very little difference between the two. The XSPC pump has a little better flow, if I recall correctly, but other than that they are very similar.


one is much less attractive than the other though....


----------



## Reaper28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anateus*
> 
> Lian Li are really nice, but I hate the way they attach the windows.


I just hate the prices lol


----------



## taem

So my Primo build is finally underway. Got the Photon 170 D5 combo mounted on the bracket with 290 in place



was a bit of a pain cos it's tight man. Like 1mm to spare either side.




Also got the xt45 420 mounted



Recycling some fans I have lying around. Not ideal I know bUT they're my favorite fans.


----------



## JasmineGtea

Guys, i've just got my Enthoo pro White yesterday... awesome cases...
But having little problem, just need some advice on lighting since the acrylic side panels seem little bit dim.
Would like to know purchasing a tube or a strip is better in the sense that I like the hardware to be able to look better.
Thx


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Component-wise there is very little difference between the two. The XSPC pump has a little better flow, if I recall correctly, but other than that they are very similar.


Yes but it's still an AIO that can't be upgraded part-by-part. The cheap kits are a starting point to get you going and learn the ropes too without ordering the wrong fittings by accident etc..

Not trying to be elitist or whatever; just facts.They probably perform relatively great but...just do it for real at that price point. Some guy at Reddit is talking about adding his GPU to his H240-X later on. Hope it's not a 290X.


----------



## SLOWION

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dorito Bandit*
> 
> [/SPOILER]
> 
> Very nice build! I have the black version, but that white version is beautiful too!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> By the way, judging from your photos, it looks to me like you haven't completely snapped the top piece all the way down in the middle. Of course you may have since those pics were taken, but just wanted to point that out to you.
> 
> I've circled in red where the top appears to not be pressed all the way down.
> 
> http://s4.postimg.org/66swiuqy5/image.jpg


yeah I figured it out later on, thanks for the heads up though


----------



## OneSeeker

Phanteks Enthoo Luxe
Fan under top cover not loud noise?
Max rad for push/pull is 40mm right?

My 600t fan under top cover quite noisy~
Planning to buy phanteks enthoo luxe for my next built with wc


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

In the Primo, what are the extra 6 or so cables at the top for? The connector is the same as the ones for the fan leds. There's also a molex and SATA 12v connector near the grommets that I'm not sure about. I think once is for an "led strip", didn't know it even had one. Also, if I'm connecting the little fan piece to my motherboards cpu fan header I use the 12v SATA connector coming out of it, correct?


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JasmineGtea*
> 
> Guys, i've just got my Enthoo pro White yesterday... awesome cases...
> But having little problem, just need some advice on lighting since the acrylic side panels seem little bit dim.
> Would like to know purchasing a tube or a strip is better in the sense that I like the hardware to be able to look better.
> Thx


Get darkside or Icemodz leds. See for yourself. I use icemodZ but heard darkside are really good. This is with two 30cm led strips. One on back panel one up top. There defused alittle since there slightly under the chasis lip


----------



## maskymus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxdarkreap3rxx*
> 
> In the Primo, what are the extra 6 or so cables at the top for? The connector is the same as the ones for the fan leds. There's also a molex and SATA 12v connector near the grommets that I'm not sure about. I think once is for an "led strip", didn't know it even had one. Also, if I'm connecting the little fan piece to my motherboards cpu fan header I use the 12v SATA connector coming out of it, correct?


6 extra cables are for led strips, they provide 12v. SATA connector is for 12v power input, Molex is 12v output.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> Yes but it's still an AIO that can't be upgraded part-by-part. The cheap kits are a starting point to get you going and learn the ropes too without ordering the wrong fittings by accident etc..
> 
> Not trying to be elitist or whatever; just facts.They probably perform relatively great but...just do it for real at that price point. Some guy at Reddit is talking about adding his GPU to his H240-X later on. Hope it's not a 290X.


With the exception of the rad, every part of the H220/240-X can be swapped out. Even the pump can be swapped to an MCP50, while the XSPC 750 kits don't offer that upgrade. And while a 290X would be a bit much added to an H240-X, it would be for any 240/280mm kit as well. In either case you would simply be adding a rad.

While I agree wholly that discrete components are typically preferable, the H220/240-X have a purpose and a place. Don't be so quick to sell their capabilities short purely based on the fact that they come pre-assembled. We aren't talking about a CLC here.


----------



## LandonAaron

I purchased the Phanteks PWM splitter separately, and it has served me well until last night when the PWM function suddenly stopped working. I am using it with 3 XSPC fans and have the controller cable plugged into the CPU fan header on my ASUS Maximus VII Hero motherboard. I use the AI Suite 3 which comes packaged with the motherboard to control the fan speeds. Last night I was doing some stress testing and benchmarking, and when I finished up AI Suite 3 gave me a message that a new CPU fan had been detected and that I needed to re-run the Fan Optimization Program. The fan optimization program is a little routine the software runs through where it tests the max and min speeds of each fan, and each fans stopping point. Anyway I re-ran the assessment 3 times now and each time it detects the Phanteks controlled fans as non controllable. The XSPC are all 3 pin fans by the way. I don't understand how it could work one day and then not the next, unless either the splitter or the CPU header just got fried or something. Any suggestions?


----------



## taem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LandonAaron*
> 
> I purchased the Phanteks PWM splitter separately, and it has served me well until last night when the PWM function suddenly stopped working. I am using it with 3 XSPC fans and have the controller cable plugged into the CPU fan header on my ASUS Maximus VII Hero motherboard. I use the AI Suite 3 which comes packaged with the motherboard to control the fan speeds. Last night I was doing some stress testing and benchmarking, and when I finished up AI Suite 3 gave me a message that a new CPU fan had been detected and that I needed to re-run the Fan Optimization Program. The fan optimization program is a little routine the software runs through where it tests the max and min speeds of each fan, and each fans stopping point. Anyway I re-ran the assessment 3 times now and each time it detects the Phanteks controlled fans as non controllable. The XSPC are all 3 pin fans by the way. I don't understand how it could work one day and then not the next, unless either the splitter or the CPU header just got fried or something. Any suggestions?


I've had fan xpert do that sort of thing to me many times. What's worked for me in the past is, unplug the glitched fan, run fan tuning, reattach the fans, run fan tuning.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *maskymus*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *xxdarkreap3rxx*
> 
> In the Primo, what are the extra 6 or so cables at the top for? The connector is the same as the ones for the fan leds. There's also a molex and SATA 12v connector near the grommets that I'm not sure about. I think once is for an "led strip", didn't know it even had one. Also, if I'm connecting the little fan piece to my motherboards cpu fan header I use the 12v SATA connector coming out of it, correct?
> 
> 
> 
> 6 extra cables are for led strips, they provide 12v. SATA connector is for 12v power input, Molex is 12v output.
Click to expand...

It explains in the manual.
Connectors #1-6 are for single fan LEDs, not meant to handle strips. #1 & #2 come filled with the front LED fans connected.
#7 is the 12V input from PSU.
#8 comes already connected to the case's LED strip.
#9, the Molex, is for connecting an LED strip up to 1 Amp.



Edit:
The 2-pin LED fan connectors they used are these: http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=jst+led+connector+2+pin


----------



## wjturner78

im working on something similar to this to cover my top rear and bottom rads. i plan on using red vinyl over clear plexi so hopefully it will light up decently. im drilling holes for the fans with black modders mesh i think its gonna look great


----------



## Keth

Few pics from my previous rig in Evolv (now I'm changing to the MiniXL







)


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Get darkside or Icemodz leds. See for yourself. I use icemodZ but heard darkside are really good. This is with two 30cm led strips. One on back panel one up top. There defused alittle since there slightly under the chasis lip


Thanks +rep. That does look good (and not lit up all fugly like a supermarket or something...not all white lighting looks good in PCs)
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> With the exception of the rad, every part of the H220/240-X can be swapped out. Even the pump can be swapped to an MCP50, while the XSPC 750 kits don't offer that upgrade. And while a 290X would be a bit much added to an H240-X, it would be for any 240/280mm kit as well. In either case you would simply be adding a rad.
> 
> While I agree wholly that discrete components are typically preferable, the H220/240-X have a purpose and a place. Don't be so quick to sell their capabilities short purely based on the fact that they come pre-assembled. We aren't talking about a CLC here.


Fine though the radiator is the major component should you need additional cooling going forward. Plus in the case of the XSPC kit you would just get a new pump while keeping all other parts. ~$65 used. I am not totally discounting these units but I stand by my opinion when we are talking north of $100. So much more flexibility and options with a real loop.


----------



## benbenkr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> Fine though the radiator is the major component should you need additional cooling going forward. Plus in the case of the XSPC kit you would just get a new pump while keeping all other parts. ~$65 used. I am not totally discounting these units but I stand by my opinion when we are talking north of $100. So much more flexibility and options with a real loop.


Err... just add more rads then?
If going with huge quad rads, then just get another pump.

You do have a point on the prices though, it'll be cheaper to get the parts individually.

Also, I don't know why the H220/240x cannot be called a "real-loop". It's basically as real as it gets.


----------



## OneSeeker

Phanteks Enthoo Luxe
Fan under top cover not give loud noise?
Max rad thickness for push/pull is 40mm right?

Planning to buy phanteks enthoo luxe for my next built with wc


----------



## wjturner78

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *benbenkr*
> 
> Err... just add more rads then?
> If going with huge quad rads, then just get another pump.
> 
> You do have a point on the prices though, it'll be cheaper to get the parts individually.
> 
> Also, I don't know why the H220/240x cannot be called a "real-loop". It's basically as real as it gets.


how is it a 240mm rad when the pump and res sit right below 120mm of it? thats gotta hinder its cooling


----------



## benbenkr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wjturner78*
> 
> how is it a 240mm rad when the pump and res sit right below 120mm of it? thats gotta hinder its cooling


4670k @ 4.5ghz, 1.35v, running all fine at 66c max day time where temps are in the 37-40c here (Malaysia). No A/C, just a ceiling fan. So, what say you?








Also, I do have a single 970 in the loop too. Really, it's bad at all.

I do have a 240 rad coming soon, so that'll help bring down the temps further.


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> It explains in the manual.
> Connectors #1-6 are for single fan LEDs, not meant to handle strips. #1 & #2 come filled with the front LED fans connected.
> #7 is the 12V input from PSU.
> #8 comes already connected to the case's LED strip.
> #9, the Molex, is for connecting an LED strip up to 1 Amp.
> 
> 
> 
> Edit:
> The 2-pin LED fan connectors they used are these: http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=jst+led+connector+2+pin


I saw that in the manual and it made no sense what it was for. Not sure how I couldn't put 2 and 2 together there. Thanks for the help.


----------



## MapRef41N93W

Just joined the club. Placed my order for an Enthoo Pro to house my also just ordered Swiftech H240x. Gonna pair that up with a Titan-X when that releases.

Looking forward to finally getting to build in a Phanteks case


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> Thanks +rep. That does look good (and not lit up all fugly like a supermarket or something...not all white lighting looks good in PCs)
> Fine though the radiator is the major component should you need additional cooling going forward. Plus in the case of the XSPC kit you would just get a new pump while keeping all other parts. ~$65 used. I am not totally discounting these units but I stand by my opinion when we are talking north of $100. So much more flexibility and options with a real loop.


the kit maintains the same profile as any custom kit...anything you could add to a custom kit can be added to the h series...and try and price out a pieced kit and get it close to the same price...you can buy everything used and get the price lower but no warranty or support if you lose an o ring or a pump fails...these kits are a real loop all of.the components are available to do as a loop seperately...you get quality block and pump which most kits dont have they generally skimp on these things to lower the price


----------



## dallas1990

new build with new gpu's i need to water cool them but i like to wait for 6 months till then. just for "in case one dies or oooooo shiny new gpu upgrade lol" the top card was running 10-12 degrees warmer so i took a old 120mm fan and ghetto mod it in there with one screw and a bottle cap lol. also i love the phanteks fans there real good for AF and static bit on the louder side but eh.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dallas1990*
> 
> new build with new gpu's i need to water cool them but i like to wait for 6 months till then. just for "in case one dies or oooooo shiny new gpu upgrade lol" the top card was running 10-12 degrees warmer so i took a old 120mm fan and ghetto mod it in there with one screw and a bottle cap lol. also i love the phanteks fans there real good for AF and static bit on the louder side but eh.


bottle cap nice job


----------



## dallas1990

Thanks it's only temporary till I get some L brackets


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dallas1990*
> 
> Thanks it's only temporary till I get some L brackets


Should just leave it in as a tribute to MacGyver.


----------



## dallas1990

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxdarkreap3rxx*
> 
> Should just leave it in as a tribute to MacGyver.


Lol


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rayydawgg*
> 
> Just would like to confirm that the Enthoo EVOLV can hold the Swiftech H240-X 280mm rad.
> 
> 
> 
> However, it can only be mounted towards the back of the case (see position above).


Why you should not buy an EVGA SuperNova NEX650G/750G


----------



## Vexzarium

Meet "Uthgerd":








(Build Information can be found in Signature Link)

EDIT: Images updated after taking action on suggestions found on this thread.


----------



## pshootr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vexzarium*
> 
> I'll add the pics, but I do have a question. I have the Enthoo Pro, would I benefit from adding another 120mm fan to the drive cage? It would be casting air about an inch from the GPU. I currently have a 4in/4out fan configuration.
> 
> And if it would be worth the upgrade, should I be looking at Static Pressure or Air Flow fans for an internal fan?
> 
> While you debate that, here's some pics to give you an idea...
> 
> Meet "Uthgerd":
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (Build Information can be found in Signature Link)
> 
> Here's a pic showing the location I'm debating about adding a fan to:


Ya, I think a 120mm fan on the HDD cage is a good thing. And yes you want an SP optimized fan because the HDD cage is restrictive. I chose the "Phanteks PH-F120XP"

Nice build you have, but think you should reroute your PCIE cables behind the MB tray. Will give you a cleaner look.


----------



## Dorito Bandit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MapRef41N93W*
> 
> Just joined the club. Placed my order for an Enthoo Pro to house my also just ordered Swiftech H240x. Gonna pair that up with a Titan-X when that releases.
> 
> Looking forward to finally getting to build in a Phanteks case


Congrats! It's a mighty fine case and I do believe you're going to like it. Sure, it may not be perfect, but it's damn near close. Best case for the money out there right now.

Best of luck with your build, bro!









By the way, noticed where you were from and wanted to leave you with this...

GO DAWGS!


----------



## Dorito Bandit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vexzarium*
> 
> I'll add the pics, but I do have a question. I have the Enthoo Pro, would I benefit from adding another 120mm fan to the drive cage? It would be casting air about an inch from the GPU. I currently have a 4in/4out fan configuration.
> 
> And if it would be worth the upgrade, should I be looking at Static Pressure or Air Flow fans for an internal fan?
> 
> While you debate that, here's some pics to give you an idea...
> 
> Meet "Uthgerd":
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (Build Information can be found in Signature Link)
> 
> Here's a pic showing the location I'm debating about adding a fan to:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Nice build!


----------



## Vexzarium

Thanks, I think I've decided to just take the drive cages out all together. Sounds more reasonable to me seeing as I never use the HDD anyway. If I need more storage, I'll just grab another SSD bracket from Phanteks. This maintains a nice clean look and un-restricts the air flow. With the eight case fans that I already have, 4 intake/4 exhaust, I think losing the last drive cage should do the trick.

I'll try to re-route my PCIe's but I'm almost certain that they are not long enough to be routed to the back then back to the front. They are fully extended as seen in my photos.


----------



## pshootr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vexzarium*
> 
> Thanks, I think I've decided to just take the drive cages out all together. Sounds more reasonable to me seeing as I never use the HDD anyway. If I need more storage, I'll just grab another SSD bracket from Phanteks. This maintains a nice clean look and un-restricts the air flow. With the eight case fans that I already have, 4 intake/4 exhaust, I think losing the last drive cage should do the trick.
> 
> I'll try to re-route my PCIe's but I'm almost certain that they are not long enough to be routed to the back then back to the front. They are fully extended as seen in my photos.


Ya, if you don't need the cage then it is best to remove it. I removed the bottom cage, but since I need a lot of storage the top cage remains.

Good luck with your PCIE cables, they might just reach.


----------



## Vexzarium

@ pshootr Brilliant. Rep given. I rewired my entire rig. Removed the drive cages. And tried to wire the PCI:E's like you said... and:





Awesome suggestion. +2.


----------



## jassilamba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PureBlackFire*
> 
> nice review. like the build. I also feel they should have had the entire psu covered and should have had their logo over the psu cover instead of on the swing bracket. I have some ides about that fan/rad "rack" on top. I'd try some steel strips with fan mounting holes so the rad can be less offset. this way the hw lab rads could fit and I could get fans under the top cover. I have a few ideas for modding the front panel too. then again, I don't need to spend money on another case.


My thoughts exactly. I was contemplating putting down the PSU shroud opening as a con, but felt that is more of a personal choice than being a true con. Glad you like the review/build.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dorito Bandit*
> 
> Very nice!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Nice build!


Thanks for your kind words.


----------



## OneSeeker

Phanteks Enthoo Luxe
Fan under top cover not give loud noise?
Max rad thickness for push/pull is 40mm right?

Planning to buy phanteks enthoo luxe for my next built with wc


----------



## taem

I don't like this part.



The metal tabs are too wide by 1-2mm. I *think* plugs and fittings would fit there ok but there is contact with the tab and I worry about proper seal. Gonna have to dremel that.

That makes second dremel job after drilling holes in the res bracket. Also thinking about cutting a bit our of this so the Photon 170 is a bit farther away. I put a strip of silicone there for now.



How many dremel jobs did you guys have to do to fit your build?


----------



## tsm106

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *taem*
> 
> How many dremel jobs did you guys have to do to fit your build?


I didn't have to use a dremel for my build except when cutting vertical drive cage panel because well it was quicker than any other way. I could have used the table saw, but well who wants to do that when you have a dremel right there.


----------



## pshootr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vexzarium*
> 
> @ pshootr Brilliant. Rep given. I rewired my entire rig. Removed the drive cages. And tried to wire the PCI:E's like you said... and:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Awesome suggestion. +2.


Kudos for a job well done, it really looks clean. Nice job, and thanks for the rep.


----------



## Mark011

what do you think of case filters? Demciflex sent me a Primo kit, i found it very good, i like the shape, the design, the strength of those filters



Here some pics of my Primo at the moment, i'm close to the end









[/URL]





more pics at http://www.overclock.net/t/1535117/project-prime-enthoo-primo-white-ed


----------



## wjturner78

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mark011*
> 
> what do you think of case filters? Demciflex sent me a Primo kit, i found it very good, i like the shape, the design, the strength of those filters
> 
> 
> 
> Here some pics of my Primo at the moment, i'm close to the end
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> [/URL]
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> more pics at http://www.overclock.net/t/1535117/project-prime-enthoo-primo-white-ed


I like them alot. I'm thinking about using them on my build but haven't decided if the price is justified or not yet. 80 bucks for filters is a bit steep regardless of how well they performor look


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

If you have a typical positive-pressure fan orientation with all fans as intake except the rear fan as exhaust then that Demciflex kit looks to be filtering all the places where air would only be exhausting from the case anyway, so kind of pointless in that instance and actually counterproductive (restrictive) to airflow where it needn't be for good dust control. I guess if you had most of your other fans as exhaust creating a negative pressure case interior where those places would be intaking air then it might make sense. No idea why anyone would do that though.


----------



## wjturner78

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mark011*
> 
> what do you think of case filters? Demciflex sent me a Primo kit, i found it very good, i like the shape, the design, the strength of those filters
> 
> 
> 
> Here some pics of my Primo at the moment, i'm close to the end
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> [/URL]
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> more pics at http://www.overclock.net/t/1535117/project-prime-enthoo-primo-white-ed


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> If you have a typical positive-pressure fan orientation with all fans as intake except the rear fan as exhaust then that Demciflex kit looks to be filtering all the places where air would only be exhausting from the case anyway, so kind of pointless in that instance and actually counterproductive (restrictive) to airflow where it needn't be for good dust control. I guess if you had most of your other fans as exhaust creating a negative pressure case interior where those places would be intaking air then it might make sense. No idea why anyone would do that though.


The demciflex filters supposedly are less restrictive while trapping smaller particles though. i agree with you about the airflow but using demciflex material inplace of the stock intake filters would make sense, but you could just buy the screening material demciflex sells....some one did that on a current build


----------



## Mark011

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> If you have a typical positive-pressure fan orientation with all fans as intake except the rear fan as exhaust then that Demciflex kit looks to be filtering all the places where air would only be exhausting from the case anyway, so kind of pointless in that instance and actually counterproductive (restrictive) to airflow where it needn't be for good dust control. I guess if you had most of your other fans as exhaust creating a negative pressure case interior where those places would be intaking air then it might make sense. No idea why anyone would do that though.


Well you can say this only when your pc is turned on, what about when it is not? Dust enters even when the pc is shutted down


----------



## wjturner78

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mark011*
> 
> Well you can say this only when your pc is turned on, what about when it is not? Dust enters even when the pc is shutted down


i think thatreplacing the existing filter material using demciflex in the stock intake locations makes much more sense and certainly cheaper. that being said if they were sent to me i would use them and rave about them:thumb:


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mark011*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> If you have a typical positive-pressure fan orientation with all fans as intake except the rear fan as exhaust then that Demciflex kit looks to be filtering all the places where air would only be exhausting from the case anyway, so kind of pointless in that instance and actually counterproductive (restrictive) to airflow where it needn't be for good dust control. I guess if you had most of your other fans as exhaust creating a negative pressure case interior where those places would be intaking air then it might make sense. No idea why anyone would do that though.
> 
> 
> 
> Well you can say this only when your pc is turned on, what about when it is not? Dust enters even when the pc is shutted down
Click to expand...

lol, I never ever shut any of my systems down except when I'm working on them or for a restart after an install or update only when it's necessary.


----------



## Reaper28

I have a few Demciflexs' filters, they do a pretty good job collecting dust (which I have a lot of for some reason). I was never really able to tell how restrictive they were though as the fans they were covering were usually crap lol


----------



## wjturner78

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> lol, I never ever shut any of my systems down except when I'm working on them or for a restart after an install or update only when it's necessary.


lol... i dont either, having a computer turned off is like having a phone turned off, it just makes no good sense


----------



## wjturner78

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Reaper28*
> 
> I have a few Demciflexs' filters, they do a pretty good job collecting dust (which I have a lot of for some reason). I was never really able to tell how restrictive they were though as the fans they were covering were usually crap lol


having owned them (and i agree hands down best out there) would you shell out 80 bucks for a kit made specific to your case?
/


----------



## Mark011

so you don't turn off your pc at night? Why keep a 150W idle pc turned on if you are doing nothing with it?


----------



## wjturner78

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mark011*
> 
> so you don't turn off your pc at night? Why keep a 150W idle pc turned on if you are doing nothing with it?


because then it would stop folding or downloading my tv programs or any number of other things it "magically" does


----------



## Reaper28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wjturner78*
> 
> having owned them (and i agree hands down best out there) would you shell out 80 bucks for a kit made specific to your case?
> /


A little pricey, but I considered it when I had my 750D the kit was something like $74 I think?. For my Luxe I'm just going to be buying a 420mm dust filter for the top rad intake and use the stock bottom filter if it doesn't do well then I will replace it. I would just buy the pieces you need which will probably still be expensive but not as bad as $80


----------



## wjturner78

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Reaper28*
> 
> A little pricey, but I considered it when I had my 750D the kit was something like $74 I think?. For my Luxe I'm just going to be buying a 420mm dust filter for the top rad intake and use the stock bottom filter if it doesn't do well then I will replace it. I would just buy the pieces you need which will probably still be expensive but not as bad as $80


agreed.... they do work very well though.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mark011*
> 
> so you don't turn off your pc at night? Why keep a 150W idle pc turned on if you are doing nothing with it?


For many reasons.

All of our computers are networked together and in this house there's always someone using them. I work nights for example, but I'm only one of 8 people in this house all on different schedules and we all have access to all the files on every system 24/7.

Also, the greatest risk of failure and shortening the lifespan of anything electrical is during startup, and that's especially true with electronics. I credit never turning my systems off with why I've never had a HDD failure in more than 15 years of working with computers, not one, and I currently have more than 50 HDDs running 24/7 holding a cumulative hundreds of terabytes of storage space and we are continually adding to that lately by more than 12 TB every month. It's like the NSA as far as storage goes in this house.

I've never even had any component I've ever bought arrive DOA. In fact I've had very few hardware failures at all. I killed one CPU back in ~2004, a pentium D that was blazing hot no matter how I tried to cool it and overclocking it was insane. It'd hit +100C and not even start to throttle or thermal shutdown, and I had a 7800GTX die on me while it was still in the 30-day return period for who knows why back in 2005? or thereabouts. It wasn't even overclocked and was quickly RMAd for replacement. Nothing since. Other than that I've built dozens and dozens of systems with dozens and dozens of mobos and GPUs and every single component in every one of them has just worked until the day I replaced it with something better.

I keep all electronics on an AVR (automatic voltage regulated) APS for clean stable power at all times, and I don't turn any of my computers off unless I have to. That's what works for me.


----------



## MrGrievous

Has there been any successful attempts at modding the Enthoo Luxe or Pro case to accept a 360mm radiator in the front? Would anyone have any idea how I could do it? Taking the optical bay out is easy but what about the bay covers which is the part Im stuck at dealing with.


----------



## wjturner78

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> For many reasons.
> 
> All of our computers are networked together and in this house there's always someone using them. I work nights for example, but I'm only one of 8 people in this house all on different schedules and we all have access to all the files on every system 24/7.
> 
> Also, the greatest risk of failure and shortening the lifespan of anything electrical is during startup, and that's especially true with electronics. I credit never turning my systems off with why I've never had a HDD failure in more than 15 years of working with computers, not one, and I currently have more than 50 HDDs running 24/7 holding a cumulative hundreds of terabytes of storage space and we are continually adding to that lately by more than 12 TB every month. It's like the NSA as far as storage goes in this house.
> 
> I've never even had any component I've ever bought arrive DOA. In fact I've had very few hardware failures at all. I killed one CPU back in ~2004, a pentium D that was blazing hot no matter how I tried to cool it and overclocking it was insane. It'd hit +100C and not even start to throttle or thermal shutdown, and I had a 7800GTX die on me while it was still in the 30-day return period for who knows why back in 2005? or thereabouts. It wasn't even overclocked and was quickly RMAd for replacement. Nothing since. Other than that I've built dozens and dozens of systems with dozens and dozens of mobos and GPUs and every single component in every one of them has just worked until the day I replaced it with something better.
> 
> I keep all electronics on an AVR (automatic voltage regulated) APS for clean stable power at all times, and I don't turn any of my computers off unless I have to. That's what works for me.


you sir have a $500 a month data habbit







wow thats alot of data....


----------



## Mark011

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> For many reasons.
> 
> All of our computers are networked together and in this house there's always someone using them. I work nights for example, but I'm only one of 8 people in this house all on different schedules and we all have access to all the files on every system 24/7.
> 
> Also, the greatest risk of failure and shortening the lifespan of anything electrical is during startup, and that's especially true with electronics. I credit never turning my systems off with why I've never had a HDD failure in more than 15 years of working with computers, not one, and I currently have more than 50 HDDs running 24/7 holding a cumulative hundreds of terabytes of storage space and we are continually adding to that lately by more than 12 TB every month. It's like the NSA as far as storage goes in this house.
> 
> I've never even had any component I've ever bought arrive DOA. In fact I've had very few hardware failures at all. I killed one CPU back in ~2004, a pentium D that was blazing hot no matter how I tried to cool it and overclocking it was insane. It'd hit +100C and not even start to throttle or thermal shutdown, and I had a 7800GTX die on me while it was still in the 30-day return period for who knows why back in 2005? or thereabouts. It wasn't even overclocked and was quickly RMAd for replacement. Nothing since. Other than that I've built dozens and dozens of systems with dozens and dozens of mobos and GPUs and every single component in every one of them has just worked until the day I replaced it with something better.
> 
> I keep all electronics on an AVR (automatic voltage regulated) APS for clean stable power at all times, and I don't turn any of my computers off unless I have to. That's what works for me.


I see your point, but i was speaking for a normal home use, like gaming etc. I have my pc on the floor not on a desk, and for some reason there is a lot of dust even if i clean it every week (sometimes twice in a week) so the dust enters from the back when the rear fan is not working


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wjturner78*
> 
> you sir have a $500 a month data habbit
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> wow thats alot of data....


Not just for me, and not just for consumer use either. I actually consume but a very small fraction of what all we have going on in the house. They always have several systems running cad programs, editing / rendering video, etc. I do build all the systems we have in use though with a little help lately from my youngest, whose currently in a malcontent hacker/pirate wannabe phase.


----------



## wjturner78

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Not just for me, and not just for consumer use either. I actually consume but a very small fraction of what all we have going on in the house. They always have several systems running cad programs, editing / rendering video, etc. I do build all the systems we have in use though with a little help lately from my youngest, whose currently in a malcontent hacker/pirate wannabe phase.


what I would give to be a "know it all" "script kiddy" again... lol nevermind those teenage years were so akward....lol


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wjturner78*
> 
> because then it would stop folding or downloading my tv programs or any number of other things it "magically" does


Well then you are not doing "nothing" with it...but with water cooling I just don't feel comfortable leaving it on for long unattended stretches even though I know from years of experience that a leak out of nowhere is very unlikely. And I turn mine on and off all the time to save power/money and have never lost a component either, fwiw (...not much...all this is anecdotal..and OT).

I definitely shut it off and unplug all important stuff from wall during a t-storm.


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> Well then you are not doing "nothing" with it...but with water cooling I just don't feel comfortable leaving it on for long unattended stretches even though I know from years of experience that a leak out of nowhere is very unlikely. And I turn mine on and off all the time to save power/money and have never lost a component either, fwiw (...not much...all this is anecdotal..and OT).
> 
> I definitely shut it off and unplug all important stuff from wall during a t-storm.


Prob extends the lifespan of the pump too if you have it off for 8 extra hours a day I would think.


----------



## Dorito Bandit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> Well then you are not doing "nothing" with it...but with water cooling I just don't feel comfortable leaving it on for long unattended stretches even though I know from years of experience that a leak out of nowhere is very unlikely. *And I turn mine on and off all the time to save power/money and have never lost a component either, fwiw (...not much...all this is anecdotal..and OT).*
> 
> *I definitely shut it off and unplug all important stuff from wall during a t-storm.*


Same here. I always turn off my pc when not in use. I have no reason to keep it on 24/7, so I just feel it's best to turn it off when not in use and save a little on the electricity bill to boot. If you have a reason to keep it on 24/7, then I guess it makes sense to leave it on.

I get a lot of storms in my area as well, and I too always unplug everything, except for the fridge.







I love my electronics and don't like taking any chances during storms. I've seen the damage lightning can cause and it ain't pretty!


----------



## taem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Also, the greatest risk of failure and shortening the lifespan of anything electrical is during startup, and that's especially true with electronics. I credit never turning my systems off with why I've never had a HDD failure in more than 15 years of working with computers, not one, and I currently have more than 50 HDDs running 24/7...


I don't like to shut down my pcs either. But I do put them to sleep quite a bit.

Does that make a difference, sleep vs shutdown, in terms of minimizing wear and the pc?


----------



## OneSeeker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> For many reasons.
> 
> All of our computers are networked together and in this house there's always someone using them. I work nights for example, but I'm only one of 8 people in this house all on different schedules and we all have access to all the files on every system 24/7.
> 
> Also, the greatest risk of failure and shortening the lifespan of anything electrical is during startup, and that's especially true with electronics. I credit never turning my systems off with why I've never had a HDD failure in more than 15 years of working with computers, not one, and I currently have more than 50 HDDs running 24/7 holding a cumulative hundreds of terabytes of storage space and we are continually adding to that lately by more than 12 TB every month. It's like the NSA as far as storage goes in this house.
> 
> I've never even had any component I've ever bought arrive DOA. In fact I've had very few hardware failures at all. I killed one CPU back in ~2004, a pentium D that was blazing hot no matter how I tried to cool it and overclocking it was insane. It'd hit +100C and not even start to throttle or thermal shutdown, and I had a 7800GTX die on me while it was still in the 30-day return period for who knows why back in 2005? or thereabouts. It wasn't even overclocked and was quickly RMAd for replacement. Nothing since. Other than that I've built dozens and dozens of systems with dozens and dozens of mobos and GPUs and every single component in every one of them has just worked until the day I replaced it with something better.
> 
> I keep all electronics on an AVR (automatic voltage regulated) APS for clean stable power at all times, and I don't turn any of my computers off unless I have to. That's what works for me.


Look like me..
Also 24/7 on torrent~

Phanteks Enthoo Luxe
Fan under top cover not give loud noise?
Max rad thickness for push/pull is 40mm right?

Planning to buy phanteks enthoo luxe for my next built with wc


----------



## Mark011

Why don't just buy a small cheap server for 24/7 downloading? I would never let my watercooled pc 24/7, first because it's expansive, second because pump would have half life


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

I seriously doubt a pump (or a fan, or a HDD, or any component in a pc) stopped and started daily would ever outlast one that is never turned off. Everything electrical, from light bulbs to motors to electronics, lasts longest when left on continuous as long as excessive heat isn't a factor. The greatest risk of failure and shortening the lifespan of anything electrical is at startup.


----------



## MapRef41N93W

Got my Enthoo Pro yesterday in what has to be a record for fastest free shipping on a case. It's almost like Amazon knew I was going to order the Enthoo Pro or something... I placed my order at 4 PM and it was there the next day at 11 AM with free shipping...

Was blown away by some of the things offered by this case just by opening it. Phanteks actually included a sorted box of screws instead of just throwing them all in a bag like some companies will on $300+ cases (cough... Corsair... cough). Everything is so sleek and neat looking. I have to say for $99 I am already blown away by this case and I haven't even started building in it yet (waiting for my H240x to be delivered from PPCs). Phanteks is obviously a company that pays great attention to detail. I definitely feel good about recommending this case to people over the past year or so.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Agreed. The Pro is truly a fantastic value and the attention to detail in the series is top notch.

So when the hell do you guys have time to actually watch/play/listen to all the things you torrent "24/7"? I bet like half of it never even gets uncompressed much less "consumed". Yes I am aware of the concept of seeding.


----------



## wjturner78

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> Agreed. The Pro is truly a fantastic value and the attention to detail in the series is top notch.
> 
> So when the hell do you guys have time to actually watch/play/listen to all the things you torrent "24/7"? I bet like half of it never even gets uncompressed much less "consumed". Yes I am aware of the concept of seeding.


I don't pay for cable at my house so I have xbmc server running with sicbeard, couch patato, playon and various other programs running to automatically download and categorize all of the show that the family watches so the can be served up on any tv in the house


----------



## Reaper28

We don't pay for power so leaving a system on is sort of irrelevant to me (aside from the heat coming from them and making it hotter) however once I'm on water I might turn it off more frequently due to if something happened nobody would realize or know what to do also shorter boot times, I'm very impatient


----------



## firefoxx04

Boot time?, I am not familiar with that term. I use ssd


----------



## Reaper28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *firefoxx04*
> 
> Boot time?, I am not familiar with that term. I use ssd


I will be in about another month


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrGrievous*
> 
> Has there been any successful attempts at modding the Enthoo Luxe or Pro case to accept a 360mm radiator in the front? Would anyone have any idea how I could do it? Taking the optical bay out is easy but what about the bay covers which is the part Im stuck at dealing with.


I'm actually about to do this. Basically you could simple put mesh optic bay covers in. But I'm up in the air with that or moving psu to optical Bay Area and install a large rad on the floor with some modding which wouldn't be too hard either


----------



## emsj86

Changed bf4 back to hdd so hardline can be on ssd. And oh my gawd the wait time


----------



## wjturner78

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Reaper28*
> 
> We don't pay for power so leaving a system on is sort of irrelevant to me (aside from the heat coming from them and making it hotter) however once I'm on water I might turn it off more frequently due to if something happened nobody would realize or know what to do also shorter boot times, I'm very impatient


i use an aquaero along with flow temp, level, and pressure sensors so if i was to have a unexpected failure with the water system it will shut its self down not entirely fail proof but the aquaero and sensors will detect something before a person and shut it down quicker


----------



## Reaper28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wjturner78*
> 
> i use an aquaero along with flow temp, level, and pressure sensors so if i was to have a unexpected failure with the water system it will shut its self down not entirely fail proof but the aquaero and sensors will detect something before a person and shut it down quicker


I considered that, also using temp sensors in my rads but that just adds "mess" to my looks. I don't really have a budget as I've already pi$$ed most of my money away anyways lol but $200 for one not including sensors etc. kind of sucks to me. I definitely want the display maybe later on I'll see how I like my fan controller and possible change it.


----------



## wjturner78

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Reaper28*
> 
> I considered that, also using temp sensors in my rads but that just adds "mess" to my looks. I don't really have a budget as I've already pi$$ed most of my money away anyways lol but $200 for one not including sensors etc. kind of sucks to me. I definitely want the display maybe later on I'll see how I like my fan controller and possible change it.


they are pricey but add alot of functionality and fun to your rig its neat to play with. the aq5lt is only 75 but has no display. i think the heat master is alot cheaper but havent played with it its scalable though so you can purchase the unit first and the get either a double 5.25 or single bay display for it.

the cabling is an issue so far on my build its the biggest pain in the ass ive got a few hundred wires and want them seen as little as possible but thats what it takes to have a killer rig ;D


----------



## Reaper28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wjturner78*
> 
> they are pricey but add alot of functionality and fun to your rig its neat to play with. the aq5lt is only 75 but has no display. i think the heat master is alot cheaper but havent played with it its scalable though so you can purchase the unit first and the get either a double 5.25 or single bay display for it.
> 
> the cabling is an issue so far on my build its the biggest pain in the ass ive got a few hundred wires and want them seen as little as possible but thats what it takes to have a killer rig ;D


I never knew you could get a display for the Heatmaster, I just checked it out to bad it isn't RGB although I guess I could always get some plastic sheet to cover it to look like the color I want


----------



## wjturner78

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Reaper28*
> 
> I never knew you could get a display for the Heatmaster, I just checked it out to bad it isn't RGB although I guess I could always get some plastic sheet to cover it to look like the color I want


i believe it works with any usb display so you could in theory mod any thing into your bay to work with it even color lcd


----------



## OneSeeker

Phanteks Enthoo Luxe
Fan under top cover not give loud noise?
Max rad thickness for push/pull is 40mm right?

Planning to buy phanteks enthoo luxe for my next built with wc


----------



## wrigleyvillain

OneSeeker no one is answering this still because it's a weird question. A fan in the top is going to make noise sure&#8230;but not more noise than putting it anywhere else..?

I don't really understand what you mean here. And I think 40mm is right but am not sure.


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneSeeker*
> 
> Phanteks Enthoo Luxe
> Fan under top cover not give loud noise?
> Max rad thickness for push/pull is 40mm right?
> 
> Planning to buy phanteks enthoo luxe for my next built with wc


It does not give a loud noise. Max rad thickness with fans on top is 64mm. So minus 25 for another fan and yes 39mm max. So would have to be a slim ut35 or ex360 by xspc type rad


----------



## OneSeeker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> OneSeeker no one is answering this still because it's a weird question. A fan in the top is going to make noise sure&#8230;but not more noise than putting it anywhere else..?
> 
> I don't really understand what you mean here. And I think 40mm is right but am not sure.


Just dont want it sound like my 600T top cover fan, cant put top cover fan cause of an annoying noise

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> It does not give a loud noise. Max rad thickness with fans on top is 64mm. So minus 25 for another fan and yes 39mm max. So would have to be a slim ut35 or ex360 by xspc type rad


Thank you
At last I can pick top rad, look like EK-CoolStream PE 360 can fit


----------



## emsj86

No problem try to help where I can


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneSeeker*
> 
> Just dont want it sound like my 600T top cover fan, cant put top cover fan cause of an annoying noise


Oh. Well that sounds like more of a problem with that case specifically; it sounds like the fan might have been in there pretty tight?


----------



## MapRef41N93W

Building in the Enthoo Pro was an absolute joy. Phanteks pulled out all the stops with this case no question about it. The real shocking thing is that it's a $100 case... I feel like I committed highway robbery on Phanteks at that price seeing as how that's only $30 more than the NZXT S340 which is considered one of the better sub $100 cases. The Enthoo Pro blew the S340 out of the water.


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

What do you guys think of leaving a push pull (sp120s) rad (nemesis gtx 480) on the bottom of the chassis (primo) without being screwed in? It's a bit too wide for the screw holes to line up and I don't feel like drilling some new ones since it's a bottom rad and can't really fall anywhere... any downsides to this?


----------



## wjturner78

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxdarkreap3rxx*
> 
> What do you guys think of leaving a push pull (sp120s) rad (nemesis gtx 480) on the bottom of the chassis (primo) without being screwed in? It's a bit too wide for the screw holes to line up and I don't feel like drilling some new ones since it's a bottom rad and can't really fall anywhere... any downsides to this?


if you can get it in down there and still close the side panel then i would find a way to secure it either with new holes or using a dremel to make the existing holes work. leaving it loose in my opinion is just too big of a chance to take, it could vibrate, slide and cause a leak, or any number of other things. if there is no way to secure it return it for one the will fit. i tried to use a hardware labs xflow and had to change to an occool 60


----------



## wjturner78

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxdarkreap3rxx*
> 
> What do you guys think of leaving a push pull (sp120s) rad (nemesis gtx 480) on the bottom of the chassis (primo) without being screwed in? It's a bit too wide for the screw holes to line up and I don't feel like drilling some new ones since it's a bottom rad and can't really fall anywhere... any downsides to this?


did you test fit your top rad? mine pushed on the optical bays and i had to take a dremel to them


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wjturner78*
> 
> did you test fit your top rad? mine pushed on the optical bays and i had to take a dremel to them


Yes. Same radiator. It fit well.


----------



## wjturner78

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxdarkreap3rxx*
> 
> Yes. Same radiator. It fit well.


did you try lining it up with the bracket? if i remember they are offset slightly


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wjturner78*
> 
> did you try lining it up with the bracket? if i remember they are offset slightly


No, excellent idea however. Will try in about an hour and a half and get back to you.


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

Eyeballing it, don't think it will work as the 120mm holes are ~2 inches in. Will see though, need to mod that piece that sticks up.


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MapRef41N93W*
> 
> Building in the Enthoo Pro was an absolute joy. Phanteks pulled out all the stops with this case no question about it. The real shocking thing is that it's a $100 case... I feel like I committed highway robbery on Phanteks at that price seeing as how that's only $30 more than the NZXT S340 which is considered one of the better sub $100 cases. The Enthoo Pro blew the S340 out of the water.


S340 is nice if you're into the aestthetic, but like the 230T, P240 and 450D, it's a riced up budget case at it's core and it shows.


----------



## OneSeeker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> Oh. Well that sounds like more of a problem with that case specifically; it sounds like the fan might have been in there pretty tight?


yea.. pretty tight


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

Nope, didn't work


----------



## wjturner78

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxdarkreap3rxx*
> 
> Nope, didn't work


Damn. .... time to bust out the power tools, it's just assembly until drills and Dremel come out, then it's a mod


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

**** that. Going to home depot and buying some wire or long cable ties to tie down both ends and calling it a day.


----------



## MrGrievous

lol you really dont want to do any drilling haha


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

After barely surviving a week without a pc I'm feeling like Veruca from Willy Wonka:

https://undergracecaroline.files.wordpress.com/2012/08/willywonka_veruca21.jpg


----------



## mfknjadagr8

So I'm about to take out hard.drive bays and possibly some of the 5.25 bays to fit another rad in the front...I'm gonna try to not cut anything so when I build my top up I can put it all back...hopefully it goes smooth I've been going nuts wanting to put my water cooling parts in


----------



## Tekku

Finally got my Enthoo Primo Black and White with White Leds







I will edit with photos in a bit







This thing is HUGEEEEEE and pretty solid









EDIT: Here goes some photos, unfurtonaly it's not the final hardware inside since My X99 Board came with a slot RAM broken and I'm now waiting if the Shop is gona replace it to me or if They are gonna say it's my problem and leave me with a broken board














And here is a peak at my problem













Note that I had mounted 3 of the RAMs before I notice this and when I notice the little plastic I was able to removed without strugle and the RAM goes nice in to place but doesn't get stuck in there right :\

I did nothing and I'm now looking at more than 500€ lost


----------



## emsj86

So I've been bored and want a new color scheme for my pro. Sticking with black and silver. But what should I change the coolant and fans and blue cables too? Blue, see through blue (x1), purple, Kelly green (would use pastel white and emeral green ) any ideas what colors or any ideas to make the rig look better. Still new to this it's my first born water machine. Note the sound blaster z red lights will be going ASAP


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Unless you already have some kind of experience bending acrylic and what not I am really impressed with anyone who tackles rigid tubing off the bat for first liquid build.

Yeah, idk, what colors do you like? Everything goes with 'black and silver'.


----------



## emsj86

Just asking because I get the whole blue is over done. Was thinking Kelly green and doing some painting. Wish I would have gone black with my ram as it's a neutral color. Bc in less tha. A year it will be my third time changing ram strictly for color. I've never bent acrylic before but I'm a steam fitter so I've been bending and brazing copper and pipes for 6 years. So I had the tools and a general idea how to do it. My bends aren't great but to be honest it's not as hard as it looks. Hardest part is measuring for two Orr three bends. One bend is not hard. Th reason I'm keeping silver and black is well money. The case is black and the fittings our silver. Next full build I'll probably go white or black fittings but can't justify with a two year kid to take care if buying upwards of 200 usd of fittings just for color


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tekku*
> 
> Finally got my Enthoo Primo Black and White with White Leds
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I will edit with photos in a bit
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This thing is HUGEEEEEE and pretty solid
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT: Here goes some photos, unfurtonaly it's not the final hardware inside since My X99 Board came with a slot RAM broken and I'm now waiting if the Shop is gona replace it to me or if They are gonna say it's my problem and leave me with a broken board
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is a peak at my problem
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Note that I had mounted 3 of the RAMs before I notice this and when I notice the little plastic I was able to removed without strugle and the RAM goes nice in to place but doesn't get stuck in there right :\
> 
> I did nothing and I'm now looking at more than 500€ lost


While that sucks I'm sure you have a warrenty. I'm co fused is it the board ram slot that's snapped?


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Well I say if any color is overdone it's red (and that is in large part the fault of Asus boards). Though all manufacturers starting with mobos need to give us more general variety!

Roger that; nice when professional skills can be applied to ones personal endeavors, as well.









Edit: And I have black BP fittings I'd trade eventually for silver, just as an aside, but they are well used.


----------



## emsj86

I have 10 soft tube compressions 2 ek 4 alpacool 45s 1 alphacool 90 and some more ek that I've been on the fence of selling but than again idk if it would be worth it. 3/8 x 5/8. Btw I've new. Thinking if painting my board but with a small brush


----------



## J4CKTH0MA5

Just finished her this week, I really loved the case. The only thing I didn't like about it was the front panel standoffs on the grill.


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

That skull fan cover looks sick. Where'd ya get it?


----------



## wrigleyvillain

I think thats the first tube going into front side PSU grommet I've seen that really just doesn't look like total crap.


----------



## SpiduhBMX

Anyone know if Enthoo Pro in white will ever be restocked? Planning on a white and black build in a few months and the Enthoo Pro is the only case i want to go with but it would be nice in white. *http://pcpartpicker.com/p/xYQW7P*


----------



## owcraftsman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *J4CKTH0MA5*
> 
> Just finished her this week, I really loved the case. The only thing I didn't like about it was the front panel standoffs on the grill.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


There's a Luxe out there calling my name. Nice work! What are your impressions of the TT rads and fans?


----------



## pshootr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *J4CKTH0MA5*
> 
> Just finished her this week, I really loved the case. The only thing I didn't like about it was the front panel standoffs on the grill.
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Very nice man, great job. I like the Res position.


----------



## J4CKTH0MA5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *owcraftsman*
> 
> There's a Luxe out there calling my name. Nice work! What are your impressions of the TT rads and fans?


I think the radiators are great. I got the DIY combo that came with everything including the D5 pump/reservoir and a 240 rad, I bought my own compression fittings and another TT 360 rad for the top. Pump runs practically dead silent on full speed.

Temps on my 4930K overclocked to 4.5GHz are only 30C idle and max 51C under intel burn test. I bought twister pressure fans for the rads which were tested as the best fans back in December out of 105. Everything's whisper quiet and running cool. I have one luna 12 fan on the top rad pulling the air through and another on the front rad in the same configuration. Then I have a Luna 14 in the top rear for exhaust.

The clear tubing that came with the kit is good quality and I was able to make some pretty sharp turns without kinking, its very flexible. I used the included TT red coolant but needed a little more so I threw in some distilled water. The good thing about the TT red one is that it has algae control in it where the green one does not.

Overall I'm really happy with how everything turned out, I can run any game on ultra in 2K and get 60FPS and my GPU isn't even overclocked. The good thing is I still have room to squeeze another 980 in even with the reservoir on top of the PSU cover, it's very tempting but for now I don't see any reason too.

I bought the 980 Matrix for $511 so I think it was a steal considering I had paid $375 with tax for my 970 STRIX which I returned. Even though my processor was a lot of money I got a good deal on most of the parts and it came out to being a nice build without being too expensive. The board alone had a $50 rebate and the GPU I think has a $10 one. I paid $119 for the Intel 730 SSD's which I have in raid mode right now, OS boots up in less than 15 seconds. Overall I'm very happy and would highly recommend.


----------



## Tekku

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> While that sucks I'm sure you have a warrenty. I'm co fused is it the board ram slot that's snapped?


Yeah you can see in the photo, the slot inside where the stick does the snap and holds it is broken. And yeah while I knew I had warranty, Caselabs.de told me "oh man you can send it but it's more than probable that we are gonna say you are the guilty one" :'(


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

Guys, I did it! I had these external radiator mounting brackets from my XSPC kit I bought months ago. I used them to fit my Nemesis 480 in the bottom. There's about an inch gap between the bottom and the push fans but it's secure now:


----------



## POLICE

sabertooth z77 + darkrock pro 3 + entho primo


----------



## Mark011

Why did you buy an Enthoo Primo if you are on Air Cooling?


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Why not? Even the thread starter Doyll, is air cooling in his Primo iirc.


----------



## Reaper28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wjturner78*
> 
> i believe it works with any usb display so you could in theory mod any thing into your bay to work with it even color lcd


That's true, but then again price starts adding up
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxdarkreap3rxx*
> 
> What do you guys think of leaving a push pull (sp120s) rad (nemesis gtx 480) on the bottom of the chassis (primo) without being screwed in? It's a bit too wide for the screw holes to line up and I don't feel like drilling some new ones since it's a bottom rad and can't really fall anywhere... any downsides to this?


Don't bother with the SP's in pull of a Nemesis rad, they don't do a thing (possibly a frame design flaw). I've tested them and they didn't do much compared to them in push at 12v


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Reaper28*
> 
> That's true, but then again price starts adding up
> Don't bother with the SP's in pull of a Nemesis rad, they don't do a thing (possibly a frame design flaw). I've tested them and they didn't do much compared to them in push at 12v


Too late for that XD How small of a temp change did you notice? Either way I like the look of push pull so far:


----------



## Reaper28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxdarkreap3rxx*
> 
> Too late for that XD How small of a temp change did you notice? Either way I like the look of push pull so far:


I only noticed like 1-2c temp drop, wasn't worth the space and noise for me. I might end up changing fans anyways


----------



## wjturner78

Working on lower air box

Bending plexi is harder than I thought. I'm going to vinyl the Iinside so it will light up need to check if this will impact airflow.

this is the upper and rear rad / fan cover template



also this will be plexi with vinyl on the inside


Most likely going to put plexi on the back of the optical bays leaving the fan there


----------



## Mark011

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Why not? Even the thread starter Doyll, is air cooling in his Primo iirc.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Why not? Even the thread starter Doyll, is air cooling in his Primo iirc.


I Think there are better option for air cooling, the pro for example, Primo is just huge because of the rads accomodation


----------



## wjturner78

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mark011*
> 
> I Think there are better option for air cooling, the pro for example, Primo is just huge because of the rads accomodation


I agree the pro is less expensive and the primo just looks vacant on air, however if your on a budget and plan on scaling as your funds allow you can't go wrong leaving room to grow


----------



## MrPatate

*Enthoo Luxe*

Hi,

Brand new member here! This thread is GREAT and helped me a lot choosing my case and answered a lot of questions. I was hesitating between the Pro and Luxe, finally chose the Luxe(for the LEDs and extra fan space). Hell ,I never wanted a case with a window before seeing this case with LEDs inside AND the PSU cover(I always thought PSU ruined the look for windowed case). I've started reading the thread from page 350+/- (around the time when the Pro came out) and now I'm at page 642 (not kidding, Enthoo overdose in the last few days lol).

I have a few questions that need clarifying ideally before my case arrives(in a few days). And the search function doesn't give me good result for the last 230pages that I have left to read (will read them tho), so sorry if some questions are already answered.

*1- The infamous fan controller:* I understand how to plug it (thanks _*doyll*_ for all the post about it). I ordered a 4 pin extension for the CPU fan so it could be attached to it, but after placing my order and continuing my reading I realized the fan1 port is only 3 pin, so the fan is no longer PWM and is voltage driven. And in a later post (page 550+/- maybe!?) someone quote a Swiftech article stating that PWM fans won't work right plugged into non PWM port (shorten life span, clicking noise, etc) since they are build to receive a stable 12V power input. I'm using the stock intel cooler since even under load it does a great job (for my needs, no overclocking) at keeping it cool (the new i5 are great, low power yet packs a punch!). My new rig is currently set up in my old Lian-Li PC-V2000B (for sell soon, if anyone is interested







) and it's dead quiet (compared to my last build in the same case with the same fans) while connected on the motherboard fan ports(all speed controlled, but obviously only the CPU fan is PWM). So am I better off not using the controller? At first I'll be using the stock case fans, they can all be connected on my motherboard. But I'm planning on adding some and will need to use it (or replace it with another type of hub/controller). If I'm using it, I'm guessing I would need to change the stock cooler for an aftermarket one with a voltage modulated fan instead of a PWM? Or simply using a splitter for the CPU fan header and cutting the feedback wire coming from the fan controller (or not plugging a fan in port 1)?

*2- HDD:* The HDD bays will be full(ideally I needed 8 bay, but I'll convert the 5.25'' to 3.5'' bay). So I guess adding 2 120mm fans (140 if they fit) on the inside of the cages will be a must for good air flow? Should I change the 200mm as well? I'd like to do a positive pressure case when everything is done, should I use high CFM fans or high static pressure for the drive bay since there will be a lot of restriction?

*3- LEDs:* I know they don't have a memory(big design flaw). I'll probably change the LEDs for a kit with a memory. But I had an idea and I'd like to know if my guessing is right. I looked at the manual and they don't talk about the LEDs much. I see in the manual that the there is a Power LED connector for the motherboard and a 12V sata connector. So if someone could confirm me something it would be great for planning my build ahead. While the computer is ON, if you disconnect the Power LED motherboard connector, does the LEDs power off and after plugging it back the LED light up with the same color? If so a quick easy fix to the memory would be to connect the sata power connector to an external 12VDC power supply (and installing a connector on the back of the case so everything can be unplugged and clean looking) because the motherboard connector is probably simply activating a relay on the led controller board but the board and LEDs are powered by the sata connector.
EDIT: From what I've seen in page 700+/- There's no Power LED connector for the motherboard, maybe the online manual I saw had a picture they include in all their manual but the Luxe doesn't have this connector. Also on page 707(post 7063) the LEDs save the first 4 colors, including orange which I need so I'm all good on that! (correct me if wrong)

*4- Filters:* Are the bottom fan filters really good? My computer is on a carpet (dust!), I've seen Primo owner build a mount to raise it and I wonder if I should do the same or if they raised it because the Primo doesn't have enough breathing room at the bottom compared to the Pro/Luxe which have feets.

I hope I'm not asking questions that have been answered multiple time, if so sorry. Can't wait to build that case!

Thank you
MrPatate


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Reaper28*
> 
> That's true, but then again price starts adding up
> Don't bother with the SP's in pull of a Nemesis rad, they don't do a thing (possibly a frame design flaw). I've tested them and they didn't do much compared to them in push at 12v


Our you talking about the rad or the fans. Bc I have all 5 of my sp120 on my rads as pull and it works


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpiduhBMX*
> 
> Anyone know if Enthoo Pro in white will ever be restocked? Planning on a white and black build in a few months and the Enthoo Pro is the only case i want to go with but it would be nice in white. *http://pcpartpicker.com/p/xYQW7P*


Probably. Email Phanteks directly and ask; I did this for the Pro in general months ago and they said more stock on way. It's only like ~8 months old and not eol yet so I don't think you need to worry.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxdarkreap3rxx*
> 
> Guys, I did it! I had these external radiator mounting brackets from my XSPC kit I bought months ago. I used them to fit my Nemesis 480 in the bottom. There's about an inch gap between the bottom and the push fans but it's secure now:


Nice. Things like that just work out with stuff you already had lying around is one of the joys of the hobby..


----------



## Joey2Sites

Just in case anyone has a reservoir and wants to see if they will need to drill holes or not. Just made this for fun because I was looking forever for the dimensions.. but never found them. So when I got my Enthoo Pro, I measured the darn thing myself.


----------



## taem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Joey2Sites*
> 
> 
> 
> Just in case anyone has a reservoir and wants to see if they will need to drill holes or not. Just made this for fun because I was looking forever for the dimensions.. but never found them. So when I got my Enthoo Pro, I measured the darn thing myself.


Good work.

I wonder though -- at least on the Primo, there's like 1mm clearance on either side. We're at the point where manufacturing tolerances dictate outcomes

I sort of winged it and barely made it with a 290 gpu (10.5") and a Photon 170 res....


----------



## Joey2Sites

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *taem*
> 
> Good work.
> 
> I wonder though -- at least on the Primo, there's like 1mm clearance on either side. We're at the point where manufacturing tolerances dictate outcomes
> 
> I sort of winged it and barely made it with a 290 gpu (10.5") and a Photon 170 res....


well a 290 is the extreme end.. but i guess if someone is buying a $250 case, they're putting a graphics card that costs at least as much inside.

I've seen lots of issues with the Primo res bracket. idk about clearance with the pro/luxe version.


----------



## MrGrievous

Does anyone here know or can measure what the radius of the corners on the window is? I lack the needed tools to do it myself.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrGrievous*
> 
> Does anyone here know or can measure what the radius of the corners on the window is? I lack the needed tools to do it myself.


A quick check on my Primo it looks like the window has a 10mm radius. Double check that yourself though. It doesn't require any special tools.


----------



## Reaper28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Our you talking about the rad or the fans. Bc I have all 5 of my sp120 on my rads as pull and it works


The fans on that rad, 16FPI even at 12v struggle to pull air through anything restrictive at all whether its a front intake or a rad. They do better in push but even on a Nemesis it needs to be fairly high 8-12v


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Reaper28*
> 
> The fans on that rad, 18FPI even at 12v struggle to pull air through anything restrictive at all whether its a front intake or a rad. They do better in push but even on a Nemesis it needs to be fairly high 8-12v


If you have them working in conjunction (push/pull) wouldn't that help the pull side out much more, as that side already has some airflow from the push side? I just figured that since the Nemesis did exceptionally well in this review: http://www.overclock.net/t/1520512/the-quad-rad-roundup (push with Noiseblocker eLoop B12-4) I could have a push-pull setup at say 1000 RPM which would be equivalent to push only at a higher RPM. So 4 more fans per rad at a lower speed for the same cooling capacity but a bit lower noise.


----------



## Reaper28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxdarkreap3rxx*
> 
> If you have them working in conjunction (push/pull) wouldn't that help the pull side out much more, as that side already has some airflow from the push side? I just figured that since the Nemesis did exceptionally well in this review: http://www.overclock.net/t/1520512/the-quad-rad-roundup (push with Noiseblocker eLoop B12-4) I could have a push-pull setup at say 1000 RPM which would be equivalent to push only at a higher RPM. So 4 more fans per rad at a lower speed for the same cooling capacity but a bit lower noise.


I've seen the reviews, that's one of the reasons I bought the rads lol. The eLoop's are higher quality than the SP's, I've tested the SP high speeds on the Nemesis 360, 240, intake on my Luxe, drive cage, my R4 as intake and wasn't really impressed. To me it seems once anything becomes pressed up against the fan's motor side performance drops but when they are free to push air through a rad they perform decently but again 9-12v for me was "acceptable" to where I could feel air actually being pushed through the rad


----------



## WHIMington

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Joey2Sites*
> 
> I've seen lots of issues with the Primo res bracket. idk about clearance with the pro/luxe version.


I can answer that: the clearance is TINY.


NOTE: hese cards are a Gigabyte GTX680 OC in SLI which is just about 9.5 inchs, its been a pain to try to find a way to fit the XSPC tube res into it









With that said I really wish there have been a thinner glass tube res out in the market, I don't really like the look and feel of acrylic res.


----------



## taem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WHIMington*
> 
> I can answer that: the clearance is TINY.
> 
> 
> NOTE: hese cards are a Gigabyte GTX680 OC in SLI which is just about 9.5 inchs, its been a pain to try to find a way to fit the XSPC tube res into it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With that said I really wish there have been a thinner glass tube res out in the market, I don't really like the look and feel of acrylic res.


So Luxe/Pro bracket gives even less clearance than Primo? Dang... I really like the res bracket. I like where it locates my res and I like how it hides a bunch of cables coming out of the grommets.

Is that a Heatkiller block?

BTW @Unicr0nhunter, you are a nutter to shoehorn a 270 photon in the primo. I love the look of the 270 but man, I don't know how you manage the bleed port and speed dial.


----------



## PureBlackFire

in the Luxe/Pro you shouldn't dream of using a res wider than 60mm or a gpu longer than 10.8" if you wanna use that mounting location.


----------



## WHIMington

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PureBlackFire*
> 
> in the Luxe/Pro you shouldn't dream of using a res wider than 60mm or a gpu longer than 10.8" if you wanna use that mounting location.


Well if you ditch the back plate and use some L bracket and be creative on your mounting opinion there might be a chance to fit 10 inch card into it









I am still waiting for better gfx card to come to the market for an upgrade though, anyone knows how large a Titan X is?


----------



## MrGrievous

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WHIMington*
> 
> Well if you ditch the back plate and use some L bracket and be creative on your mounting opinion there might be a chance to fit 10 inch card into it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I am still waiting for better gfx card to come to the market for an upgrade though, anyone knows how large a Titan X is?


Funny you should say that cause I just so happened to get a hold of a Gtx 980 Strix cheap and will have to redo my whole case to get that bad boy in there. For reference here is my case as it stands for now.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

FYI there's no exact percentage or numbers that I can share but apparently it is generally better to have the pull fans at a slightly lower RPM. At least that's what I inferred from a recent Google on the matter. The persons(s) who claimed that also had physics and math to back it up in their post but most of that was over my head, to be perfectly honest. If anyone has any further insight or comment on this I would love to hear.

So my common sense told me that all identical fans would be always ideal, but this is apparently not the case. At least not in terms of RPM.


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Reaper28*
> 
> I've seen the reviews, that's one of the reasons I bought the rads lol. The eLoop's are higher quality than the SP's, I've tested the SP high speeds on the Nemesis 360, 240, intake on my Luxe, drive cage, my R4 as intake and wasn't really impressed. To me it seems once anything becomes pressed up against the fan's motor side performance drops but when they are free to push air through a rad they perform decently but again 9-12v for me was "acceptable" to where I could feel air actually being pushed through the rad


I was going to pick between the SP120, Noiseblocker, and Gentle Typhoon. The GTs were ~$22 per fan (after shipping), the Noiseblockers I could only find on PPCs were something like $23 or 24 per fan, without shipping, and the SP120s were readily available on Newegg for $14 per fan (with Premiere so free shipping + returns). I went with the SP120s even though I knew they are sort of mediocre since I've read from Martin:

"Keep in mind the slower speed you go below 1000 RPM the harder it is to tell between fans. I find that my preferred 600-800 rpm range is soo close it's really not worth spending extra on better fans." Source: http://www.overclock.net/t/1539999/good-best-static-pressure-fans-for-1000rpm-and-quietness-radiators/10#post_23516564

I've tested all 16 SP120s at full ~1450 RPM with the side panels open and the noise levels weren't that bad to my ears.


----------



## MrPatate

*Enthoo Luxe*
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrPatate*
> 
> Hi, Brand new member here!
> ....
> I hope I'm not asking questions that have been answered multiple time, if so sorry. Can't wait to build that case!
> Thank you


Sadly I didn't get a reply, my post was maybe too long and discouraged some, I'll try to do a shorter version (and probably fail)









So now that I've read the whole thread (starting at around page 300, skipping the Primo only pages) I still have some questions. My case is arriving soon and I'd like to figure out as much stuff before so it will be a trouble free change (switching from a Lian-Li PC-V2000B, soon for sell btw). I chose the Luxe, its the first case I actually want with a window, the lighting with the clean look thanks to the PSU cover is beautiful.

*1-* The infamous fan controller: I understand how to plug it (thanks _*doyll*_ for all the post about it). But I'm still wondering if its a good device to use. Someone around page 550+/- quoted an article from Swiftech claiming that connecting a 4pin PWM fan to a 3 pin port is bad for the fan (reduce life span, clicking noise, etc) because those fans are design to get a constant 12Vdc. I'm using the stock intel cooler(PWM) and I do plan on adding more fan in the future(won't have enough motherboard port unless using splitters). I have a Gigabyte GA-Z97X-UD5H, it has lots of 4 pin port, but they are GND/12V/Sense/VCC not PWM. I see 4 options:

*A-* Use a 4pin splitter, one side to the CPU cooler and the other 4pin (missing sense wire) to the phantek controller so the sense is only coming from my cpu fan.
*B-* Better change the stock cooler for a non PWM fan cooler (voltage regulated) and plug it in the Phantek Controller.
*C-* When adding more fan, just buy a fan controler made for a voltage regulated port (3 pin or those non PWM 4 pin).
*D-* I worry too much, should take a valium and plug it all including cpu cooler on the phantek controller










*2-* What is the use of those non PWM fan 4 pin fan port?!?! What the VCC does if the speed control comes from the 12V!?!?

*3-* The HDD bays will be full(ideally I needed 8 bay, but I'll convert the 5.25'' to 3.5'' bay). So I guess adding 2 120mm fans (140 if they fit) on the inside of the cages will be a must for good air flow? Should I change the 200mm as well? I'd like to do a positive pressure case when everything is done, should I use high CFM fans or high static pressure for the drive bay since there will be a lot of restriction?

*4-* LEDs: My question got answered, but could someone confirm the led has memory for the first 3-4 colors (including orange) please? I only saw 2 claiming they can. All others claim they have no memory at all.

*5-* Are the bottom fan filters good? My computer is on a carpet (dust!), I've seen Primo owner build a mount to raise it and I wonder if I should do the same or if they raised it because the Primo doesn't have enough breathing room at the bottom compared to the Pro/Luxe which have feets.

I hope this is better summarized than my other post. Can't wait to get my hand on my case, all those claim about damaged case are worrying me.
Thank you!


----------



## MrPatate

Yop I failed, it's actually longer...


----------



## maskymus

1) Usually, connecting PWM to non-PWM header will cause such problems (especially ticking noise and more hiss because the fan motor is adjusted for PWM regulation), that's why I usually recommend to use 3-pin as all motherboards can control them.
2)In the PWM fan control signalling scheme, a fixed, unmodulated +5V PWM line is just a hardwired constant full speed 100% duty cycle command. This is just a tricksy way to make a 3-pin header look like a 4-pin header without really being one.
3) Go for static pressure 120-140mm fan as they'll generate more airflow through the HDD cages.
4) No clue as I'm primo owner.
5) If Luxe has the same filters as Primo, then they're just mediocre I'd say (they'll hold big dust particles but small parts will come to the case). Nothing compared to ModRight filters or Demciflex.


----------



## DMatthewStewart

Im almost done with my Primo. But I have one question: There is a female molex plug for an LED strip. But the strip that Phanteks sells seems to have a 4 pin male fan plug. What is supposed to actually go in this spot? I know the Luxe has the matching hook-up so Im now officially confused.

Picture is a little dark. Took it with the iPad without sufficient lighting. Better pics to follow once I get the rest wired up and I can thoroughly torture this thing


----------



## wjturner78

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> FYI there's no exact percentage or numbers that I can share but apparently it is generally better to have the pull fans at a slightly lower RPM. At least that's what I inferred from a recent Google on the matter. The persons(s) who claimed that also had physics and math to back it up in their post but most of that was over my head, to be perfectly honest. If anyone has any further insight or comment on this I would love to hear.
> 
> So my common sense told me that all identical fans would be always ideal, but this is apparently not the case. At least not in terms of RPM.


martins has done testing on this

http://www.coolingtechnique.com/martinsliquidlab/Radiator-Fan-Orientation-And-Shroud-Testing-Review.html


----------



## wjturner78

i dont know if im liking the rad covers or not, still have more panels to make for the side and rear of the optical bays and drill the holes for the fans when the vinyl dries maybe itll be more appealing to me then


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wjturner78*
> 
> i dont know if im liking the rad covers or not, still have more panels to make for the side and rear of the optical bays and drill the holes for the fans when the vinyl dries maybe itll be more appealing to me then


didn't that design limit your airflow in or out of the rads?


----------



## wjturner78

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> didn't that design limit your airflow in or out of the rads?


I don't think it will. I have a 120 mmfan on the drive cage to the right of the lower rad and a 120 mm fan on the case to the left of the lower rad, I'm hoping that they will keep the air flowing i have a friend who does hvac who is gonna measure the cfms with and without the rad cover so we shall see. I just don't know if i like them yet might change my mind when the holes are drilled and they are all installed


----------



## wrigleyvillain

I am on the fence too. That is just a whole lotta red. And even though the shade matches pretty well the fact they are shiny make them seem lighter-colored than your RAM and cables etc.


----------



## wjturner78

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> I am on the fence too. That is just a whole lotta red. And even though the shade matches pretty well the fact they are shiny make them seem lighter-colored than your RAM and cables etc.


lol those are exactly my thoughts. I'm gonna wait until the vinyl dries and then drill the 140mm holes that will take alot of the red out and then see if it grows on me more. If it doesn't I'll try painting them to match my existing red and make them less shiny. If that still doesn't catch my eye better I'll scrap them and go back to the drawing board.....


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wjturner78*
> 
> lol those are exactly my thoughts. I'm gonna wait until the vinyl dries and then drill the 140mm holes that will take alot of the red out and then see if it grows on me more. If it doesn't I'll try painting them to match my existing red and make them less shiny. If that still doesn't catch my eye better I'll scrap them and go back to the drawing board.....


I.Fell like a dumbass I though you were gonna leave the covers like that lol yeah out wont impact the flow probably...might even help it


----------



## wjturner78

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> I.Fell like a dumbass I though you were gonna leave the covers like that lol yeah out wont impact the flow probably...might even help it


lol been there a time or two myself


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wjturner78*
> 
> lol been there a time or two myself


do they cover the rads and fans tight or is there a little air gap? I've considering making a psu cover like the original one only bigger to cover both the rad and the psu but not sure ill be doing the top mod first for sure...


----------



## wjturner78

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> I am on the fence too. That is just a whole lotta red. And even though the shade matches pretty well the fact they are shiny make them seem lighter-colored than your RAM and cables etc.


maybe I should vinyl them in black?


----------



## wjturner78

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> do they cover the rads and fans tight or is there a little air gap? I've considering making a psu cover like the original one only bigger to cover both the rad and the psu but not sure ill be doing the top mod first for sure...


I'm gonna use the fans mounting holes to secure them to the fans and there's a slight space in between the fans and rad before they touch the sides of the plexi not much of a gap but it's there that's why I put the fan to the left to help move the air through the cover


----------



## Mark011

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wjturner78*
> 
> I don't think it will. I have a 120 mmfan on the drive cage to the right of the lower rad and a 120 mm fan on the case to the left of the lower rad, I'm hoping that they will keep the air flowing i have a friend who does hvac who is gonna measure the cfms with and without the rad cover so we shall see. I just don't know if i like them yet might change my mind when the holes are drilled and they are all installed


i think the rads will suffer with that design, you have to drill at least some holes for let the air passing through, why do you want to cover so mutch?


----------



## wjturner78

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mark011*
> 
> i think the rads will suffer with that design, you have to drill at least some holes for let the air passing through, why do you want to cover so mutch?


you may be right about needing holes to let air pass on both sides of the rad. I'm just experimenting, I like nice smooth lines I like things to be asymmetrical and I think rads and fans are not the most attractive components


----------



## wjturner78

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mark011*
> 
> i think the rads will suffer with that design, you have to drill at least some holes for let the air passing through, why do you want to cover so mutch?


I'm also gonna make a panel like yours on the side of the optical bays and use plexi for fan guards on top and front...


----------



## pshootr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wjturner78*
> 
> maybe I should vinyl them in black?


Yes, all black or black with subtle red accents will work much better I think. I love the idea though of ducting your airflow.









Looks like you did a nice job too


----------



## Mark011

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wjturner78*
> 
> I'm also gonna make a panel like yours on the side of the optical bays and use plexi for fan guards on top and front...


mine are 2 panels, not just 1, 1 on the hdd cage, 1 behind optical bays


----------



## wjturner78

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pshootr*
> 
> Yes, all black or black with subtle red accents will work much better I think. I love the idea though of ducting your airflow.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Looks like you did a nice job too


I think your right... I'm gonna make black with the red rog logo in the center..... excellent idea rep!!


----------



## wjturner78

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mark011*
> 
> mine are 2 panels, not just 1, 1 on the hdd cage, 1 behind optical bays


the plexi panel with your sponsor list is a single piece or is 2 pieces? I know the one in the rear of the 5.25 bays is a single piece


----------



## wjturner78

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mark011*
> 
> i think the rads will suffer with that design, you have to drill at least some holes for let the air passing through, why do you want to cover so mutch?


I'd love to hear the opinion of @Unicr0nhunter he has an enthoo primo and is also very knowledgeable on fans.


----------



## Mark011

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wjturner78*
> 
> the plexi panel with your sponsor list is a single piece or is 2 pieces? I know the one in the rear of the 5.25 bays is a single piece


the plexy side with sponsor is a single piece


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Yeah if you can make them look more stock that might be pretty dope. Or some more subtle red accents too, sure.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

I hadda stop reading this thread as it was taking up too much of my time .... and the mish mash of all the different models in one thread makes this ole man dizzy









I do have some questions and I hope someone can save me the trouble of searching the last 200 pages or so. My son is starting an *air cooled* build based upon the Luxe and he's doing a white / orange theme. It's his "I just got my 1st job that I actually use my degree" present to himself.

1. I normally use a small PSU to run water pumps w/o having to connect the CPU.
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/9106/bus-192/AC_to_DC_Adapter_-_110V_AC_to_12V_DC_Converter_w_Standard_4_Pin_5000mA_Max.html

Wanted to gauge the color of the LED (orange with this vinyl and paint colors. He borrowed it and connected to the 12v cable to case front but that doesn't get the LEDs to turn on.... anyone know what else is needed to make those work before PSU arrives ?

2. Rather than paint the Redline Ridgebacks (easiest removable heat sinks), any suggestions on either RAM with orange heat sings or otherwise easily removable ones. He's found a set if 4 x 4GB @ 2133 and a 2 x 8GB @ 1866 from Gskill..... Avexir has some gorgeous stuff custom matched to the Gigabyte orange accented boards (but none in US)...any other suggestions on places we haven't looked ? .... or other RAM w/ easy to remove HSs. White would also do buy no less than 2133 CAS 9 / 2400 CAS 10

3. Looking for additional sources of custom backplates for MSI 970s

-Cold Zero has em but no color selection
-This guy has white / orange option but magnetic and never heard of em http://www.v1tech.com/shop/backplates/msi-dragon-backplates/
-Found some asian market sources but wasn't thrilled with designs and couldn't read the sites









4. Has anyone tried to disassemble the Phanteks SP140 fans ? He has the Orange PH-TC14-PE and he's looking to match the fan color via a Dye job.

Here's some progress photo's







Second to last shows one of the reasons i don't recommend I don't recommended investing in 4 PCIE slot MoBos if you are using air cooling ... especially w/ 2 cards. Requires rotating cooler which loses 1-2C and leaves only 1/2" clearance. Last one shows the acrylic backplates

Just waiting for cable combs and BIOS Tuning / Overclocking before delivery

EDIT:

Swapped out air cooler for Swiftech H240-X


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> [...] 1. I normally use a small PSU to run water pumps w/o having to connect the CPU.
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/9106/bus-192/AC_to_DC_Adapter_-_110V_AC_to_12V_DC_Converter_w_Standard_4_Pin_5000mA_Max.html
> 
> Wanted to gauge the color of the LED (orange with this vinyl and paint colors. He borrowed it and connected to the 12v cable to case front but that doesn't get the LEDs to turn on.... anyone know what else is needed to make those work before PSU arrives ?
> 
> [...]


You could get one that has both the 12V and the 5V and grounds instead of just the 12V.
http://www.amazon.com/Coolerguys-100-240v-Molex-Power-Adapter/dp/B000MGG6SC/


----------



## Faster_is_better

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *taem*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Joey2Sites*
> 
> Just in case anyone has a reservoir and wants to see if they will need to drill holes or not. Just made this for fun because I was looking forever for the dimensions.. but never found them. So when I got my Enthoo Pro, I measured the darn thing myself.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Good work.
> 
> I wonder though -- at least on the Primo, there's like 1mm clearance on either side. We're at the point where manufacturing tolerances dictate outcomes
> 
> I sort of winged it and barely made it with a 290 gpu (10.5") and a Photon 170 res....
Click to expand...

Do you have any more pics of that res in your case? I am thinking to mount one in that location, just want to see how it looks on as many builds as I can.









I have 290s as well, they are so massive... I was getting worried about putting a res back there but remeasured the space and from bare pcb to the 5.25" metal is 72mm~ Most of the tube res seem to be around 50-60mm diameter. Although I can't use the res bracket that came with the Primo, it has no chance of fitting without modding because of the size of the cards lol.

Actually I took some pics..

Measurement from the PSU cover panel up


Measurement from end of r9 290 card into drive bays


----------



## WHIMington

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrPatate*
> 
> Yop I failed, it's actually longer...


Not sure about what type of fans you wanted to hook up to the control, but I highly suggest you to use a PWM Fan spliter for PWM fans and only connect 3 pin to the hub, if you are only using 1 pwm fan for CPU, you should have the CPU _OPT fan header left alone, use that to power the Phanteks fan hub instead, that header is a direct copy of your CPU PWM header and will gives the same PWM signal, it also usually have their own RPM readout as well.


----------



## synphul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> 2. Rather than paint the Redline Ridgebacks (easiest removable heat sinks), any suggestions on either RAM with orange heat sings or otherwise easily removable ones. He's found a set if 4 x 4GB @ 2133 and a 2 x 8GB @ 1866 from Gskill..... Avexir has some gorgeous stuff custom matched to the Gigabyte orange accented boards (but none in US)...any other suggestions on places we haven't looked ? .... or other RAM w/ easy to remove HSs. White would also do buy no less than 2133 CAS 9 / 2400 CAS 10


You're right it's very difficult. Being limited to 2133/2400 ddr3 doesn't leave for a lot of color options. In 1600/1866 I found several that are orange and the profile is somewhat lower (good for air cooled setups to avoid conflict with cpu coolers). Crucial ballistix tactical, g.skill ares, team vulcan all have orange colored ram. Just not with those specs. I don't know what platform he's building on (z97, 990 etc). Using those requirements for the ram on newegg, 2133/2400 cas9 only gives 4 results. That's with 1.5v though, not sure if his system will handle higher (1.65v ram).

Depending on the platform and the air cooler he decides to go with, just keep in mind the ram may not be extremely visible. It may not always be the case, but I have 2 air cooled z97 systems. The one with a narrow tower cooler (cm 212 evo), the ram is slightly visible but shadowed by the cooler since it's so far recessed compared to the top of the cooler (nearest the side panel). The other system uses a dark rock pro 3 which covers nearly all 4 ram slots. Just half of the last ram slot isn't covered. In essence I could have purple ram with pink polkadots and no one would know. The dark rock pro 3 has similar ram clearance to things like the nh-d14/d15, phanteks tc14pe and so on - ripjaws x ram barely fits underneath, anything taller than that will cause interference issues or like the trident x series will need the top fin removed. Just things to consider.

I don't believe the phanteks 140sp's come apart. Not without damaging something.


----------



## Joey2Sites

from what i hear the xspc is one of the larger diameter tube res's .. so others might be better. but hey, at least it fits in your case!

Also.. I hear people giving phanteks a hard time about the clearance.. how many case manufactures even bother giving specific reservoir mounting options? Aside from Phanteks.. 0? none that I know of. So maybe its not perfect, but in any other case you have to just put it wherever you can find a spot, and drill holes.


----------



## Joey2Sites

I want to put one of those IO lights in my enthoo pro, above the IO shield, like nzxt does on some of their cases. I know nothing about electrical work, so if anyone can let me know.. will this work? If I use a 5mm led rated for 3.5 volts, and only use the 3.3 volt and the ground wires on the sata power connector, it should work, just not full power, right? And since it's under powered it won't even need a resistor, right?

I could be way off lol, and I apologize for the rudimentary drawing lol. Any help would be much appreciated.


----------



## MrPatate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Joey2Sites*
> 
> I want to put one of those IO lights in my enthoo pro, above the IO shield, like nzxt does on some of their cases. I know nothing about electrical work, so if anyone can let me know.. will this work? If I use a 5mm led rated for 3.5 volts, and only use the 3.3 volt and the ground wires on the sata power connector, it should work, just not full power, right? And since it's under powered it won't even need a resistor, right?
> 
> I could be way off lol, and I apologize for the rudimentary drawing lol. Any help would be much appreciated.


Plugging the switch that way would make the led always on. You need to put one red on one pin of the switch and the other on the other pin (black is going directly to the led). Make sure your switch is an on/off and not a push button like in the picture(or you'll need to keep pressing the button for the led to light up). Do sata power connector really have 3.3v also? Didnt knew that...


----------



## MrPatate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *maskymus*
> 
> 1) Usually, .


Thanks for all the info!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WHIMington*
> 
> Not sure about what type of fans you wanted to hook up to the control, but I highly suggest you to use a PWM Fan spliter for PWM fans and only connect 3 pin to the hub, if you are only using 1 pwm fan for CPU, you should have the CPU _OPT fan header left alone, use that to power the Phanteks fan hub instead, that header is a direct copy of your CPU PWM header and will gives the same PWM signal, it also usually have their own RPM readout as well.


My CPU_OPT is a false PWM from what I can see in the manual GND/12V/Sense/VCC. Unless theres an error in the manual.
So a 4pin splitter with one side Sense cut and plugged in the controller would work? If so, I'll gheto mod and extension I have ordered into a splitter.

Can anyone confirm the Luxe leds have in fact a memory for 3-4 colors(including orange which I want)?!?


----------



## Joey2Sites

Thanks for the help on the switch. And yep.. sata has 3.3 but molex to sata adapters dont include it, they just use the other 4 wires because almost nothing actually needs the 3.3v wire.. but its perfect for powering one led lol.


----------



## Joey2Sites

My motherboard has 2 true pwm 4 pin connectors, but the fans I want to use are all 4 pin, and the phanteks hub uses 3 pin connectors. I heard that plugging pwm fans into 3 pin connectors isnt good, so I was thinking about using my second pwm connector to a swiftech hub which uses all 4 pin connectors.. and then use the 3 pin phanteks hub for any case fans with 3 pin.

Why would phanteks release new static pressure fans with 4 pin connectors, when their hub supports 3 pin? Its so weird. I wish the entire industry would just use pwm fans, hubs, controllers, etc. This fake pwm, real pwm, 3 pin, etc. is all annoying.


----------



## JaredLaskey82

This is going to be my new setup.
Using twelve NF-F12s for the fans and a BitFenix Recon Fan Controller with two Phobya PWM 8x 4Pin splitters to control the two rads.


----------



## WHIMington

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Joey2Sites*
> 
> My motherboard has 2 true pwm 4 pin connectors, but the fans I want to use are all 4 pin, and the phanteks hub uses 3 pin connectors. I heard that plugging pwm fans into 3 pin connectors isnt good, so I was thinking about using my second pwm connector to a swiftech hub which uses all 4 pin connectors.. and then use the 3 pin phanteks hub for any case fans with 3 pin.
> 
> Why would phanteks release new static pressure fans with 4 pin connectors, when their hub supports 3 pin? Its so weird. I wish the entire industry would just use pwm fans, hubs, controllers, etc. This fake pwm, real pwm, 3 pin, etc. is all annoying.


Because the fans that comes with the case is 3 pin, and while there is more PWM fan available on the market now, the majority of fans on the market is still 3 pin fans. While the fan hub itself isn't that great, I appreciate Phanteks for including one for some poor man fan control.


----------



## Joey2Sites

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WHIMington*
> 
> Because the fans that comes with the case is 3 pin, and while there is more PWM fan on the market now, the majority of fans on the market is still full of 3 pin fans. While the fan hub itself isn't that great, I appreciate Phanteks for including one for some poor man fan control.


Yeah I totally agree with you, but they just released new fans.. I think they should've made them them 3 pin to work with their own hub. Or offer both versions? idk how difficult that would be. I love Phanteks, I just find it weird that I can't use their own new fans on their fan hub.


----------



## VulgarDisplay88

I will hopefully be building a rig for a friend soon. He wanted it fairly small so I showed him the Evolv that I have and he loves it. Spec wise it'll be similar to my sig rig but I might make a small build log. Forgot to do one for mine.


----------



## WHIMington

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Joey2Sites*
> 
> Yeah I totally agree with you, but they just released new fans.. I think they should've made them them 3 pin to work with their own hub. Or offer both versions? idk how difficult that would be. I love Phanteks, I just find it weird that I can't use their own new fans on their fan hub.


AFAIK they have both 3 pin and 4 pin version available, I might be wrong though. Anyway, it would be nice if they also includes a 4pin true PWM spliter like swiftech did, after all, who would buy a PWM fan and not wanting to use its PWM?


----------



## WHIMington

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrPatate*
> 
> Thanks for all the info!
> My CPU_OPT is a false PWM from what I can see in the manual GND/12V/Sense/VCC. Unless theres an error in the manual.
> So a 4pin splitter with one side Sense cut and plugged in the controller would work? If so, I'll gheto mod and extension I have ordered into a splitter


The only way to know if those were true PWM port is to test it yourself, if you have a spare intel stock cooler(Personally I suggest you ditching your stock cooler for something better as well), plug it to CPU_OPT to see if it match one on the CPU FAN header, most motherboard that I know have PWM Ssignal at the 4th pin even when the manual say it is VCC.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrPatate*
> 
> Can anyone confirm the Luxe leds have in fact a memory for 3-4 colors(including orange which I want)?!?


Leux LED have orange setting, but since the LED controler is not full hue you are limited to that 10 colour only(Red, Green, Blue, Yellow, Orange, light Purple, White, light Green, light Blue, and deep Purple.) Top power button double as power light with the same colour of the case LEDs, and an extra white HDD LED slightly forward. A tip to use the LED: If you turn off your LED BEFORE turning the PC off the next time you power up and turn on the LED will be the same colour.

Speaking of LEDs, had anyone mod in a full hue controler yet?


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

Build finished. More pics @ log: http://www.overclock.net/t/1544898/build-log-black-red


----------



## synphul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WHIMington*
> 
> Speaking of LEDs, had anyone mod in a full hue controler yet?


Not sure what you mean, modding the luxe from limited to full hue somehow? May not be what you're talking about but I'm working on getting a multicolor led strip into my pro. It's one of those with the remote, 20 color rgb+w which has independent alternating pure white leds. Not completely 'full hue' but since the rgb color and white are separate for on/off/brightness it's able to create a variety of pastels as well as solid full colors and pure white rather than the rgb's all maxed. (creates a bluish hued white, not true white).

Been working out different mounting locations for the strip trying to figure out where I have room. I'd like to run it down the front corner of the case so the lighting reaches the smaller window as well but not enough room to lay the light strip flat with the 200mm fan installed. Might have to give the strip some slack and go over the edge of the fan shroud. The plan is to start the strip at the bottom of the smaller window so I can tuck the controller under the psu cover. It's external powered but I think I can slip the power cable in underneath between the case floor and the bottom filter.


----------



## Reaper28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxdarkreap3rxx*
> 
> I was going to pick between the SP120, Noiseblocker, and Gentle Typhoon. The GTs were ~$22 per fan (after shipping), the Noiseblockers I could only find on PPCs were something like $23 or 24 per fan, without shipping, and the SP120s were readily available on Newegg for $14 per fan (with Premiere so free shipping + returns). I went with the SP120s even though I knew they are sort of mediocre since I've read from Martin:
> 
> "Keep in mind the slower speed you go below 1000 RPM the harder it is to tell between fans. I find that my preferred 600-800 rpm range is soo close it's really not worth spending extra on better fans." Source: http://www.overclock.net/t/1539999/good-best-static-pressure-fans-for-1000rpm-and-quietness-radiators/10#post_23516564
> 
> I've tested all 16 SP120s at full ~1450 RPM with the side panels open and the noise levels weren't that bad to my ears.


Noise isn't that much of a concern for me as its sort of the reason I went with the Nemesis rad's. I have all the fans under control and when I'm watching a movie, reading? (baha), etc. I can turn them down but once I start gaming or listening to music its loud enough to drown out the fan noise plus if I drop the fans to 1300ish RPM I know the rad can handle the heat levels regardless and crank the fans back up when I want


----------



## MrPatate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WHIMington*
> 
> Leux LED have orange setting, but since the LED controler is not full hue you are limited to that 10 colour only(Red, Green, Blue, Yellow, Orange, light Purple, White, light Green, light Blue, and deep Purple.) Top power button double as power light with the same colour of the case LEDs, and an extra white HDD LED slightly forward. A tip to use the LED: If you turn off your LED BEFORE turning the PC off the next time you power up and turn on the LED will be the same colour.
> 
> Speaking of LEDs, had anyone mod in a full hue controler yet?


You misunderstood me, I know about the colors it can do (didn't knew turning it off manually saved the color tho, still very annoying to do) but apparently the first 3-4 color can be saved without turning it off before powering the computer off. And one of those color is orange, True?


----------



## WHIMington

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrPatate*
> 
> You misunderstood me, I know about the colors it can do (didn't knew turning it off manually saved the color tho, still very annoying to do) but apparently the first 3-4 color can be saved without turning it off before powering the computer off. And one of those color is orange, True?


True, in fact every colour does save, but from my testing sometime the controler seems to "forgot" which colour they were set for and reset to Red when power on while powering them off before shut down works flawlessly.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

You quoted same twice bro


----------



## Joey2Sites

They
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WHIMington*
> 
> AFAIK they have both 3 pin and 4 pin version available, I might be wrong though. Anyway, it would be nice if they also includes a 4pin true PWM spliter like swiftech did, after all, who would buy a PWM fan and not wanting to use its PWM?


offer their normal fans in both 3 pin and 4 pin but not the new static pressure mp fans.

But phanteks emailed me back and said they will work fine in the hub, they will just work as 3pin fans. But since the hub uses pwm, they will essentially be 3 pin pwm fans. The swiftech only sends one pwm signal as well, so it's essentially the same hub.


----------



## Joey2Sites

Z


----------



## WHIMington

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> You quoted same twice bro


Fixed, I hate the draft function


----------



## WHIMington

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Joey2Sites*
> 
> They
> offer their normal fans in both 3 pin and 4 pin but not the new static pressure mp fans.
> 
> But phanteks emailed me back and said they will work fine in the hub, they will just work as 3pin fans. But since the hub uses pwm, they will essentially be 3 pin pwm fans. The swiftech only sends one pwm signal as well, so it's essentially the same hub.


You mis-understood the function of the hub, phantaks hub convert PWM signal into 12V pulse to mimic voltage control, its not 100% PWM control, swiftech splitter split the signal into 8 header, which is ture PWM. (does not work on corsair fans though, for some reason corsair thinks using a higher then normal 5.25v pwm signal is a good idea(not)). And while PWM fan can be function as voltage fans, the control range is reduce noticeably.


----------



## Joey2Sites

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WHIMington*
> 
> You mis-understood the function of the hub, phantaks hub convert PWM signal into 12V pulse to mimic voltage control, its not 100% PWM control, swiftech splitter split the signal into 8 header, which is ture PWM. (does not work on corsair fans though, for some reason corsair thinks using a higher then normal 5.25v pwm signal is a good idea(not)). And while PWM fan can be function as voltage fans, the control range is reduce noticeably.


Oh I didn't know that. Hmm.. Interesting.

Is there any difference in how they perform?


----------



## Joey2Sites

I don't know enough about electrical voltages and whatnot. I don't understand how a fan gets 12v power but only needs 3.3-5 volts to run at full speed. On the swiftech, does each fan get 1/8th of the voltage?

I'm lost now lol


----------



## taem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Faster_is_better*
> 
> Do you have any more pics of that res in your case? I am thinking to mount one in that location, just want to see how it looks on as many builds as I can.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have 290s as well, they are so massive... I was getting worried about putting a res back there but remeasured the space and from bare pcb to the 5.25" metal is 72mm~ Most of the tube res seem to be around 50-60mm diameter. Although I can't use the res bracket that came with the Primo, it has no chance of fitting without modding because of the size of the cards lol.


A 290 definitely fits with the res bracket and Photon, it's just really right.




A close-up of that red square area -- there is so little space there I worried that pump vibration might make the glass hit the white metal lip of the 5.25 bay cage so I put a thin strip of clear silicone there




As to how the Photon looks overall




It's sitting really low and looks a bit odd that way, but I did it that way for two reasons. One, if I want to run tubing from the pump to the gpus, this allows me to avoid having to use a 90 degree angled fitting. Two, there is clearance at the top to work with cables in the 5.25 bays. I might move it up though, it does look odd.

This is my first ever loop btw, I think it came out ok.


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

If you don't have any hard disks, you can fit the D5 Photon in that corner. I used Velcro to hold it in place like so:


----------



## MrPatate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Joey2Sites*
> 
> I don't know enough about electrical voltages and whatnot. I don't understand how a fan gets 12v power but only needs 3.3-5 volts to run at full speed. On the swiftech, does each fan get 1/8th of the voltage?
> 
> I'm lost now lol


PWM fans have a stable 12v power input and the speed is modulated by a 4-20mA signal (which result in a signal of 1-5V).

Voltage regulated fans receive a pulsed 12v, so if the fan needs to be at 50%, 50% of the time the 12v is ON and the other 50% its OFF.

Thats why PWM fan need the fourth pin. And have better speed control.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrPatate*
> 
> PWM fans have a stable 12v power input and the speed is modulated by a 4-20mA signal (which result in a signal of 1-5V).
> 
> *Voltage regulated fans receive a pulsed 12v, so if the fan needs to be at 50%, 50% of the time the 12v is ON and the other 50% its OFF.*
> 
> Thats why PWM fan need the fourth pin. And have better speed control.


What voltage controlled (3-pin) fans for computers require is a variable voltage up to 12v. Only cheaper fan controllers (and the Phanteks hub) actually modulate the 12V supply voltage without cleaning it up into a stable varied voltage, and that's why cheap fan controllers often cause issues with some fans such as clicking or even be damaging to them shortening their lifespan. Here's Nidec warning against modulating the supply voltage of a 3-pin fan:
Quote:


> Pulse-width modulation of DC operating voltage to modify fan speed [edit: in PWM devices] is not recommended. Transients generated by that approach can irreversibly damage motor commutation and control electronics and dramatically shorten the life of a fan.


As an example of what I mean, here's some images Darlene (IT Diva) posted a while back comparing the clean voltage line shown on a scope of a ~$100 Lamptron CW611 compared to the PWM voltage current of a ~$40 Lamptron FC3.

Lamptron CW611:


Lamptron FC3:


The cheaper fan controller is doing exactly what Nidec warns about, which is why I would never use it or any other cheap fan controller, nor would I use the Phanteks hub which uses the PWM signal from a mobo to modulate the supply voltage to 3 pin voltage control fans in much the same way.


----------



## wjturner78

delete


----------



## wjturner78

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> What voltage controlled (3-pin) fans for computers require is a variable voltage up to 12v. Only cheaper fan controllers (and the Phanteks hub) actually modulate the 12V supply voltage without cleaning it up into a stable varied voltage, and that's why cheap fan controllers often cause issues with some fans such as clicking or even be damaging to them shortening their lifespan. Here's Nidec warning against modulating the supply voltage of a 3-pin fan:
> As an example of what I mean, here's some images Darlene (IT Diva) posted a while back comparing the clean voltage line shown on a scope of a ~$100 Lamptron CW611 compared to the PWM voltage current of a ~$40 Lamptron FC3.
> 
> Lamptron CW611:
> 
> 
> Lamptron FC3:
> 
> 
> The cheaper fan controller is doing exactly what Nidec warns about, which is why I would never use it or any other cheap fan controller, nor would I use the Phanteks hub which uses the PWM signal from a mobo to modulate the supply voltage to 3 pin voltage control fans in much the same way.


if i ran the phanteks hub off of an aquaero would it be the same as running off the mobo? will the phanteks hub still work if it isnt getting the pwm signal? im wanting to use the phanteks hub as just a fan splitter being fed from an aquaero


----------



## emsj86

. Just a small little looks upgrade. If you can call it that. It's not where I want it but not bad.note: it's the painted gpu back plate and block


----------



## brian-phanteks

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Joey2Sites*
> 
> They
> offer their normal fans in both 3 pin and 4 pin but not the new static pressure mp fans.
> 
> But phanteks emailed me back and said they will work fine in the hub, they will just work as 3pin fans. But since the hub uses pwm, they will essentially be 3 pin pwm fans. The swiftech only sends one pwm signal as well, so it's essentially the same hub.


This is correct. You can connect 4-pin fans to the Phanteks PWM hub. These fans will be controlled the same way 3-pin fans would. Also they would have the same performance as if connected directly to a fan header that is voltage controlled.
The new MP series fans are only 4-pin PWM. The reason for a 3-pin PWM hub is so users can still use their 3-pin fans or save some money over purchasing 4-pin fans. The price difference has decreased as the industry has started producing more 4-pin fans.
If you or anyone else has any questions about the PWM hub or any other Phanteks product, you can message me directly or email me at [email protected]


----------



## maskymus

To wjturner78,
No, it will not be the same. I have both Enthoo Primo, Aquaero 6 Pro, Gigabyte Z97X-Gaming GT motherboard and 8 Noiseblocker B12-3 and 8 Scythe Glide Stream 1200rpm 3-pin fans, so I could compare all fan regulation options. All testing was made with fans running on full speed (12V) or trying to slow them down either using utilities or adjusting the voltage.
Noiseblocker B12-3 at 12V uses 0.24A
Scythe Glide Stream 1200rpm at 12V uses 0.16A
1) test option: Phanteks hub and PWM header. PWM and PWM_OPT can supply up to 1A on the header, PWM_OPT is just to copy PWM signal from the CPU PWM header, so the result was 3 Noiseblockers from the PWM header using the Phanteks fan hub. If I connect 4th B12-3, then there was not sufficient voltage from MB header and fans start to rattle (most probably that voltage couldn't be spreaded evenly for all the fans or not enough current for fan motor). If I connect additional Molex, they'd run just fine, however the fan start voltage gets screwed up, so they don't run as quiet as I'd like to (even with fan reconfiguring with Gigabyte utilties). Same issue with Scythe fans, but PWM header could handle 5 of them.
P.S. Starting voltage for B12-3 is around 3.5-4V. With Molex connected it's like the minimal voltage is set to something like 7-8V.
2) test option: Phanteks hub and non-PWM header. Result: 2 Noiseblocker B12-3 and 4 Scythe fans. Same issues as in previous test if I connect additional fans.
3) test option: Aquaero 6 Pro and Phanteks hub. The maximum current per channel is 2,5A for Aquaero 6 (if you use Aquaero 5 then it's less current). I could get all 8 Noiseblocker fans working through Phanteks hub with voltage control set in Aquaero. Of course, rpm reading will come only from the first header on hub. None issues at all both with all B12-3 on one channel and all Scythe fans on other.
Hopefully, these answers all the questions.


----------



## wjturner78

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *maskymus*
> 
> To wjturner78,
> No, it will not be the same. I have both Enthoo Primo, Aquaero 6 Pro, Gigabyte Z97X-Gaming GT motherboard and 8 Noiseblocker B12-3 and 8 Scythe Glide Stream 1200rpm 3-pin fans, so I could compare all fan regulation options. All testing was made with fans running on full speed (12V) or trying to slow them down either using utilities or adjusting the voltage.
> Noiseblocker B12-3 at 12V uses 0.24A
> Scythe Glide Stream 1200rpm at 12V uses 0.16A
> 1) test option: Phanteks hub and PWM header. PWM and PWM_OPT can supply up to 1A on the header, PWM_OPT is just to copy PWM signal from the CPU PWM header, so the result was 3 Noiseblockers from the PWM header using the Phanteks fan hub. If I connect 4th B12-3, then there was not sufficient voltage from MB header and fans start to rattle (most probably that voltage couldn't be spreaded evenly for all the fans). If I connect additional Molex, they'd run just fine, however the fan start voltage gets screwed up, so they don't run as quiet as I'd like to (even with fan reconfiguring with Gigabyte utilties). Same issue with Scythe fans, but PWM header could handle 5 of them.
> P.S. Starting voltage for B12-3 is around 3.5-4V. With Molex connected it's like the minimal voltage is set to something like 7-8V.
> 2) test option: Phanteks hub and non-PWM header. Result: 2 Noiseblocker B12-3 and 4 Scythe fans. Same issues as in previous test if I connect additional fans.
> 3) test option: Aquaero 6 Pro and Phanteks hub. The maximum current per channel is 2,5A for Aquaero 6 (if you use Aquaero 5 then it's less current). I could get all 8 Noiseblocker fans working through Phanteks hub with voltage control set in Aquaero. Of course, rpm reading will come only from the first header on hub. None issues at all both with all B12-3 on one channel and all Scythe fans on other.
> Hopefully, these answers all the questions.


perfect, thats inline with what i thought to be true. rep for doing the testing!


----------



## wjturner78

I have to say Phanteks has by far the best customer service of any company ive dealt with! thanks again @brian-phanteks


----------



## synphul

Didn't realize Brian was here on the forums. Another thumbs up for phanteks support. Brian helped me out with a minor issue regarding the side panel on my pro a couple weeks back, great to deal with and fast response and replacement. Pleasant and helpful customer support goes a long way in my opinion.


----------



## WHIMington

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wjturner78*
> 
> if i ran the phanteks hub off of an aquaero would it be the same as running off the mobo? will the phanteks hub still work if it isnt getting the pwm signal? im wanting to use the phanteks hub as just a fan splitter being fed from an aquaero


Control wise its the same. Just do not expect them to perform the same

The rules of thumb is never use expensive fan on a hub in PWM mode like this. You can still use it as a pure fan splitters thougn.


----------



## wjturner78

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *synphul*
> 
> Didn't realize Brian was here on the forums. Another thumbs up for phanteks support. Brian helped me out with a minor issue regarding the side panel on my pro a couple weeks back, great to deal with and fast response and replacement. Pleasant and helpful customer support goes a long way in my opinion.


absolutely happy customers are loyal customers. having customer service that just fixes your issue without waiting on hold for hours or give you a bunch of grief is such a relief.


----------



## Faster_is_better

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JaredLaskey82*
> 
> 
> 
> This is going to be my new setup.
> Using twelve NF-F12s for the fans and a BitFenix Recon Fan Controller with two Phobya PWM 8x 4Pin splitters to control the two rads.


You have to watch out for trying to drive more than 8 PWM fans from a single PWM signal source, usually 8-10 is about the limit that a PWM signal can reliably control fans with 100% of their range. So if you are going for 16 PWM fans it may not work. I have been researching the same thing.

So far your options seem to be Aquaero 6 (multiple PWM channels), custom PWM signal booster board, Corsair Commander Mini (possibly, have not 100% confirmed).

If you do try the 2 Swiftech splitters and plug them into 2 headers on your motherboard, please reply back with results though. If it works that would be awesome.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *taem*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Faster_is_better*
> 
> Do you have any more pics of that res in your case? I am thinking to mount one in that location, just want to see how it looks on as many builds as I can.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have 290s as well, they are so massive... I was getting worried about putting a res back there but remeasured the space and from bare pcb to the 5.25" metal is 72mm~ Most of the tube res seem to be around 50-60mm diameter. Although I can't use the res bracket that came with the Primo, it has no chance of fitting without modding because of the size of the cards lol.
> 
> 
> 
> A 290 definitely fits with the res bracket and Photon, it's just really right.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A close-up of that red square area -- there is so little space there I worried that pump vibration might make the glass hit the white metal lip of the 5.25 bay cage so I put a thin strip of clear silicone there
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As to how the Photon looks overall
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's sitting really low and looks a bit odd that way, but I did it that way for two reasons. One, if I want to run tubing from the pump to the gpus, this allows me to avoid having to use a 90 degree angled fitting. Two, there is clearance at the top to work with cables in the 5.25 bays. I might move it up though, it does look odd.
> 
> This is my first ever loop btw, I think it came out ok.
Click to expand...

Hmm is that a reference 290? That's very interesting if the res bracket does fit, although I'm not sure if the EK 290 blocks go past the end of the PCB so that may still be a clearance issue in my case.


----------



## taem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Faster_is_better*
> 
> Hmm is that a reference 290? That's very interesting if the res bracket does fit, although I'm not sure if the EK 290 blocks go past the end of the PCB so that may still be a clearance issue in my case.


It is a reference.

EK block would be fine depending on which pcie slot.

The short ek blocks that leave the end of the pcb near the power connectors exposed pose no problems. The full cover blocks might hit the angled part of the cutout if in slot 5. But if in slots 1-4 should be no problem.

If single card it's not an issue. But most ATX boards take cards in slots 2 and 5 and then it's an issue.


----------



## Joey2Sites

So if Swiftech uses the actual PWM signal, is that better than using the phanteks hub? I'm going to end up with at least 6-8 fans.. and they're all 4 pin pwm fans. Will the swiftech splitter result in the same problems as the phanteks has, with clicking, etc?


----------



## WHIMington

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Joey2Sites*
> 
> So if Swiftech uses the actual PWM signal, is that better than using the phanteks hub? I'm going to end up with at least 6-8 fans.. and they're all 4 pin pwm fans. Will the swiftech splitter result in the same problems as the phanteks has, with clicking, etc?


Swiftech spliter won't cost any problem as long as you do not use Corsair PWM fans, all fans that uses intel old pwm standard is going to work.


----------



## Joey2Sites

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WHIMington*
> 
> Swiftech spliter won't cost any problem as long as you do not use Corsair PWM fans, all fans that uses intel old pwm standard is going to work.


ok thanks.


----------



## JaredLaskey82

I am only running 6 fans off each slitter that will be controlled from one channel per splitter from the BitFenix Recon Fan Controller.

Here are all the new parts I ordered:

7 Alphacool L Connector 90 Degree Revolvable G1/4 F-F Black
1 EK Supremacy EVO Elite Edition Intel 115x CPU Waterblock
1 Alphacool NexXxoS Monsta 360mm White Special Edition
7 Bitspower G1/4 Matte Black Rotary 90 Degree Adapter
1 PCCG 99.9% Pure Silver Coil
1 XSPC EC6 Liquid Cooling Coolant UV Clear
1 XSPC D5 Vario Pump with Front Cover
1 XSPC Dual Bayres/Pump V4 Faceplate Pack White
4 Noctua 4pin 30cm PWM Power Extension Cable 3 Pack
1 XSPC Twin D5 Dual Bay Reservoir Acrylic (Alu Front)
2 PCCG Sleeved 45cm PCI-E 6+2pin Cable White
1 Phanteks Enthoo Primo Ultimate Chassis White
6 Noctua NF-F12 PWM 120mm Fan
1 BitFenix Recon Fan and LED Controller White
1 Intel Core i7 4790K Quad Core LGA 1150 4.0GHz Unlocked CPU Processor
1 Seasonic 1050W 80Plus Platinum Full Modular Power Supply
1 Microsoft Windows 8.1 - 64-bit - DVD OEM
2 Seagate Barracuda 2TB ST2000DM001
1 CableMod SE-Series KM3, XP2, XP3 & FL2 Cable Kit White
2 Phobya PWM 8x 4Pin Splitter

I will be taking the D5 out of my XSPC dual bay res for the XSPC twin/dual bay res, taking the two ASUS R9 280x cards with EK full block with white painted ek backplates and parallel SLI bridge, the DVD drive. Will also be using the painted white XSPC 240 rad from the raystorm kit as well as the Alphacool NexXxoS XT45 radiator that I also painted white that are sitting in my old white NZXT Phantom 820 at the moment

Still to order two 5.25 hot swap bays for my HDDs and two kits of the AVEXIR Blitz1.1 Original 16GB (2x 8GB) DDR3 2400MHz

Well at least this will keep me busy for a while.

Will add photos of the finished product


----------



## MrPatate

With all that has been said about fans and controller I'm lost. What good quality controller do you suggest (ideally not at a ridiculously high price).

For 3 pin?
For 4 pin PWM?
Is there one that can do both at the same time?

When my setup is done, I'll have 8 fans and the cpu cooler.


----------



## JaredLaskey82

Most 4 pin controllers can take 3 pin.
In your case (no pun intended) you may need a splitter board or a few Y splitter cables to split the fans to different channels.
Most controllers only come with 5 or 6 channels.


----------



## JaredLaskey82

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrPatate*
> 
> With all that has been said about fans and controller I'm lost. What good quality controller do you suggest (ideally not at a ridiculously high price).
> 
> For 3 pin?
> For 4 pin PWM?
> Is there one that can do both at the same time?
> 
> When my setup is done, I'll have 8 fans and the cpu cooler.


might I suggest the Lamptron FC5 V2 Fan Controller, BitFenix Recon or the NZXT Sentry Mix 2 Fan Controller.
Check out Linus Tech Tips or OC3D for reviews on YouTube.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wjturner78*
> 
> absolutely happy customers are loyal customers. having customer service that just fixes your issue without waiting on hold for hours or give you a bunch of grief is such a relief.


Phanteks USA (Brian) does an excellent job!








Support doesent get any better!








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JaredLaskey82*
> 
> might I suggest the Lamptron FC5 V2 Fan Controller, BitFenix Recon or the NZXT Sentry Mix 2 Fan Controller.
> Check out Linus Tech Tips or OC3D for reviews on YouTube.


----------



## OneSeeker

phanteks hub pwm support scythe grand flex pwm 120mm x 8?


----------



## WHIMington

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneSeeker*
> 
> phanteks hub pwm support scythe grand flex pwm 120mm x 8?


Not the brightest idea, use swiftech spliter instead.


----------



## emsj86

I use the swiftech spittler for my sp120 pwm hp fans. And it works great no ticking been like that for months


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneSeeker*
> 
> phanteks hub pwm support scythe grand flex pwm 120mm x 8?


Phanteks PWM to 3-pin should tell you it's not a PMW fan unit. It's for 3-pin fans.

Swiftech 8 fan PWM hub
http://www.swiftech.com/8-WayPWMsplitter.aspx
PSU power connector is Sata or Molex depending on which one you get.

or a couple of Gelid PWM splitters with PSU power hooked together. Cheap as chips and give you the option of using different PWM signal sources.
http://www.gelidsolutions.com/products/index.php?lid=2&cid=11&id=63


----------



## BuzzinDSM

Another hub question. I have the following:

Luxe case
Stock fans
2 additional top exhaust PH-F140SP fans
Asus Z97 Pro

It came to me with the front 200mm fan plugged into port 1. I've now plugged in the other 4 fans as well to this hub.
*
Would it be ok to plug the hub into the CPU Opt on the Asus Mobo. Is this the optimal set-up? I believe I read that you don't plug the fan controller sata into the PSU or it will run 100%?*


----------



## JaredLaskey82

Let the fun begin.



Going to chuck it in the Enthoo Primo tomorrow after work.


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BuzzinDSM*
> 
> Another hub question. I have the following:
> 
> Luxe case
> Stock fans
> 2 additional top exhaust PH-F140SP fans
> Asus Z97 Pro
> 
> It came to me with the front 200mm fan plugged into port 1. I've now plugged in the other 4 fans as well to this hub.
> *
> Would it be ok to plug the hub into the CPU Opt on the Asus Mobo. Is this the optimal set-up? I believe I read that you don't plug the fan controller sata into the PSU or it will run 100%?*


It says in the manual for the Luxe here: http://www.phanteks.com/assets/manuals/Enthoo%20Luxe%20Manual%20Western.pdf that:

"Connecting the 4-pin to other 4-pin header (besides the CPU_Fan) Other 4-pin connectors can be found on modern motherboards besides the "CPU_Fan" connector (e.g. "CPU_Fan2", CHA_Fan", "*OPT_Fan*"), however not all motherboard manufacturers implement a true PWM signal modulation onto these connectors. These type of 4-pin connectors modulate the RPM by voltage, which has a smaller control range compared to modulation by true PWM signal.

The 12V SATA power cable can not be used to power the PWM hub if connecting to these types of 4-pin connectors, due to the interference with the RPM regulation by voltage (resulting in the fans running on full RPM). The PWM hub will draw its power from the 4-pin connector, which is limited to a total device consuming 30W in total."

According to your motherboard's manual: http://dlcdnet.asus.com/pub/ASUS/mb/LGA1150/Z97-PRO/E9062_Z97-PRO.pdf on page 54 (1-38), it shows:



Which looks like the OPT is using PWM since the chassis fans (CHA_FAN1, CHA_FAN2) are 4 pin but use +5v signals. Someone please correct me if I'm wrong.


----------



## BuzzinDSM

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxdarkreap3rxx*
> 
> It says in the manual for the Luxe here: http://www.phanteks.com/assets/manuals/Enthoo%20Luxe%20Manual%20Western.pdf that:
> 
> "Connecting the 4-pin to other 4-pin header (besides the CPU_Fan) Other 4-pin connectors can be found on modern motherboards besides the "CPU_Fan" connector (e.g. "CPU_Fan2", CHA_Fan", "*OPT_Fan*"), however not all motherboard manufacturers implement a true PWM signal modulation onto these connectors. These type of 4-pin connectors modulate the RPM by voltage, which has a smaller control range compared to modulation by true PWM signal.
> 
> The 12V SATA power cable can not be used to power the PWM hub if connecting to these types of 4-pin connectors, due to the interference with the RPM regulation by voltage (resulting in the fans running on full RPM). The PWM hub will draw its power from the 4-pin connector, which is limited to a total device consuming 30W in total."
> 
> According to your motherboard's manual: http://dlcdnet.asus.com/pub/ASUS/mb/LGA1150/Z97-PRO/E9062_Z97-PRO.pdf on page 54 (1-38), it shows:
> 
> 
> 
> Which looks like the OPT is using PWM since the chassis fans (CHA_FAN1, CHA_FAN2) are 4 pin but use +5v signals. Someone please correct me if I'm wrong.


I could be wrong but it looks like I could use any of the chassis fan connections on the mobo as long as I go into the bias and set them to PWM.


----------



## maskymus

It's clearly stated that 4th pin is +5V which emulates PWM signal (please refer to previous post where I explained what it does), so PWM fan will run on full blast from those MB connector if using PWM setting in BIOS. The only motherboards which have all true PWM headers I know are from Asus X99 platform. CPU_OPT is actually true PWM, however it will send the same PWM signal as CPU_FAN (act as a mirror for CPU_FAN), so you can't control fans separately on CPU_FAN and CPU_OPT headers. They were designed for CPU coolers, when you usually have 2 identical PWM fans and plug them in both connectors.


----------



## BuzzinDSM

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *maskymus*
> 
> It's clearly stated that 4th pin is +5V which emulates PWM signal (please refer to previous post where I explained what it does), so PWM fan will run on full blast from those MB connector if using PWM setting in BIOS. The only motherboards which have all true PWM headers I know are from Asus X99 platform. CPU_OPT is actually true PWM, however it will send the same PWM signal as CPU_FAN (act as a mirror for CPU_FAN), so you can't control fans separately on CPU_FAN and CPU_OPT headers. They were designed for CPU coolers, when you usually have 2 identical PWM fans and plug them in both connectors.


So in summary would you just recommend that I skip the hub and just run them straight to the mobo?

Although maybe it would be ok if I plugged the hub into CPU-OPT and it mirrored the CPU Fan. I will be using a Noctua NH-U14S.


----------



## emsj86

Too many problems that seem to happen with the hub. When t works great but alit of people struggle with it. I'd pony up 8.99 usd get the swiftech 8 way spittler. It works great I use one. I still use my hub for leds and my corsair af140 fans as they make no noise as is and keep it disabled 12v all times. I do though run my pump to the cpu header. And since my mobo has all pwm I make chasis 3 my switech spittler


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BuzzinDSM*
> 
> Another hub question. I have the following:
> 
> Luxe case
> Stock fans
> 2 additional top exhaust PH-F140SP fans
> Asus Z97 Pro
> 
> It came to me with the front 200mm fan plugged into port 1. I've now plugged in the other 4 fans as well to this hub.
> *
> Would it be ok to plug the hub into the CPU Opt on the Asus Mobo. Is this the optimal set-up? I believe I read that you don't plug the fan controller sata into the PSU or it will run 100%?*


This will probably work just fine, but be warned, the CPU_OPT is not always PWM. On some motherboards the CPU_FAN is PWM and CPU_OPT is variable voltage. Crazy, but true. So if PWM controlled hub does not work properly on CPU_OPT, try the CPU_FAN header.


----------



## emsj86

Pretty sure you need to plug the sata in or else your running 8 or so fans off one fan header. It's just like a pwm spiltter or pump you use sata and the wires just to send signals the sata is to give it enough "boost" to get it going and stay spinning


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Too many problems that seem to happen with the hub


Yes that's an understatement and if it didn't exist this thread would be 400 pages instead of 8. I am starting to wish...


----------



## emsj86

Lol so very true. The dreaded hub


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> You could get one that has both the 12V and the 5V and grounds instead of just the 12V.
> http://www.amazon.com/Coolerguys-100-240v-Molex-Power-Adapter/dp/B000MGG6SC/


.

I guess so....never did check the other leads to see what voltage was off the other pins.... 2A would be a bit undersized for it's main purpose tho (pump draws up to 4.3 watts). I just use it to power pumps when doing WC builds .... much easier than jumping the PSU, especially with the foot switch. Trying to think of what I could accomplish w/ the 5v. Only reason I used it here was that PSU had not arrived and my 'hiuse spare" is out on loan.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Faster_is_better*
> 
> Do you have any more pics of that res in your case? I am thinking to mount one in that location, just want to see how it looks on as many builds as I can.


If we're talking the primo .... there's a full dimensional drawing of the Primo in Post 1000.

I forget where the pics are (besides my sig) but with the 10.5" 780s I had 2mm clearance to the 60mm res.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *synphul*
> 
> You're right it's very difficult. Being limited to 2133/2400 ddr3 doesn't leave for a lot of color options. In 1600/1866 I found several that are orange and the profile is somewhat lower (good for air cooled setups to avoid conflict with cpu coolers). Crucial ballistix tactical, g.skill ares, team vulcan all have orange colored ram. Just not with those specs. I don't know what platform he's building on (z97, 990 etc). Using those requirements for the ram on newegg, 2133/2400 cas9 only gives 4 results. That's with 1.5v though, not sure if his system will handle higher (1.65v ram).
> 
> Depending on the platform and the air cooler he decides to go with, just keep in mind the ram may not be extremely visible. It may not always be the case, but I have 2 air cooled z97 systems. The one with a narrow tower cooler (cm 212 evo), the ram is slightly visible but shadowed by the cooler since it's so far recessed compared to the top of the cooler (nearest the side panel). The other system uses a dark rock pro 3 which covers nearly all 4 ram slots. Just half of the last ram slot isn't covered. In essence I could have purple ram with pink polkadots and no one would know. The dark rock pro 3 has similar ram clearance to things like the nh-d14/d15, phanteks tc14pe and so on - ripjaws x ram barely fits underneath, anything taller than that will cause interference issues or like the trident x series will need the top fin removed. Just things to consider.
> 
> I don't believe the phanteks 140sp's come apart. Not without damaging something.


The Intel voids warranty if you use 1.65 volt RAM is a myth. Check their XMP page and look at the "Certified Intel i5 / i7 Compatibility List" on the right. 50% of the certified compatible sets are over 1.5 volts. The reason that we have this silly myth is that the JEDEC Standard specifies 1.5 voltsb for JEDEC profiles.... But XMP = overclocking for which the standard does not apply. And whether CPU, GPU, RAM ... overclocking means more voltage.

Yes i have searched all the usual suspects sites .... I have found them but they disappeared before he could grab. Was just looking for a source that I perhaps hadn't used before. Avexir stuff for specific MoBos is gorgeous but ho they been reviewed by all the sites, nobody seems to carry anything but black 1333 / 1600.

Yes, it is visible. He is using the PH-TC14-PE, and have done many builds w/ that bugger, no problems yet. I refuse to use any high profile RAM with one exception. Corsair and Mushkin both offer both tall and low profile stuff that always fits nicely. Gskill Ares also fits well.... same height as Corsair Vengeance LP. On water cooled builds, I will use the Mushkin Ridgebacks simply because ... well 1) Hynic Modulex, 2) takes tons of voltage 3) best timings on market and 4) relevant to discussion here, easily removed heat sinks so painting easy.

I have received confirmation that they are removable tho apparently Phanteks added a little tab at some point to prevent us from doing so easily. That needs to be clipped off, waiting for pics instructions to arrive.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrPatate*
> 
> Thanks for all the info!
> My CPU_OPT is a false PWM from what I can see in the manual GND/12V/Sense/VCC. Unless theres an error in the manual.
> So a 4pin splitter with one side Sense cut and plugged in the controller would work? If so, I'll gheto mod and extension I have ordered into a splitter.
> 
> Can anyone confirm the Luxe leds have in fact a memory for 3-4 colors(including orange which I want)?!?


I think better said, at least usually, the CPU_OPT is a slave to CPU header. I use these for two fans and two water pumps
http://www.swiftech.com/PWMsplittercable.aspx

And yes, my son's is orange ... see page 877

See 7:00 minute mark





Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JaredLaskey82*
> 
> This is going to be my new setup.
> Using twelve NF-F12s for the fans and a BitFenix Recon Fan Controller with two Phobya PWM 8x 4Pin splitters to control the two rads.


I used a XT45-420 on top and UT60-280 which you might consider some aspects of:

1. It gives about 30% more cooling
2. Rads were actually cheaper, at east when I bought mine
3. Obviously fans are cheaper.
4. Allows ya to sneak a nice drain in (a s well as top fill / bleed ports)
5. Ya can use the fans that come with the case
6. Phanteks 1200 rpm fans cool 3C better than the Noctua 1500 rpm ones
7. The F140SPs are waaaay cheaper than PWM alternatives

Fan Control is automatic via FanXpert MoBo utility and 3 Phateks Hubs

Channel 1 (1800 - 3200 rpm typical)
CPU Header => Pump No.1
CPU_OPT Header => Pump No.2

Channel 2 (fans shut off below 325 rpm, once triggered by temps, 350 - 880 rpm typical)
CHA_1 Header => Hub No.1 => (6) Phanteks F140SP's on XT45-420

Channel 3 (fans shut off below 325 rpm, once triggered by temps, 350 - 850 rpm typical)
CHA_2 Header => Hub No.4 => (4) Phanteks F140SP's on UT60-280

Channel 4 (fans shut off below 325 rpm, once triggered by temps, 350 - 650 rpm typical)
CHA_1 Header => Hub No.1 => (5) Phanteks F140SP Case fans

here's the drain option which pushed me away from the 360 / 480 \options on bottom


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Joey2Sites*
> 
> My motherboard has 2 true pwm 4 pin connectors, but the fans I want to use are all 4 pin, and the phanteks hub uses 3 pin connectors. I heard that plugging pwm fans into 3 pin connectors isnt good, so I was thinking about using my second pwm connector to a swiftech hub which uses all 4 pin connectors.. and then use the 3 pin phanteks hub for any case fans with 3 pin.
> 
> Why would phanteks release new static pressure fans with 4 pin connectors, when their hub supports 3 pin? Its so weird. I wish the entire industry would just use pwm fans, hubs, controllers, etc. This fake pwm, real pwm, 3 pin, etc. is all annoying.


I'm done with PWM..... I put 10 extra F140SPs in my case for $100.... not gonna do that w/ decent PWM fans.

I am controlling 15 fans on 3 channels automatically from 350 rpm to 850 rpm normally with capacity to go to 1250 rpm....system is dead silent, can't tell if it's even on with eyes closed....can't tell ya how many times i hit power button to turn on in the morning only to find out it was already on and monitor was sleeping. Fans shut down when temps call for below 350 rpm. Back in the day I used PWM to get a wider control range rpm wise but as the FSP140s give me 301 - 1250 rpm, I just don't see an advantage anymore. Yes, the nerd in me still likes PWM as it is superior technology but it just has no actual impact on the usages I'm putting it to.

I also can't find a use to high SP fans .... with most of today's rads being 8 - 12 fpi, no need for high SP.

I'm not saying there isn't a place for it, a 30 fpi with 3000 rpm fans better be high SP .... but if noise is a criteria, as it is for me .... I'll be keeping rpms below 850, it's just not needed


----------



## Joey2Sites

These look awesome, but I don't think they're available yet, and I can't find any pictures of the back to see what connections are on the pcb. Vantec Lavish


----------



## Joey2Sites

and this youtube channel is amazing. this guy tested the new MP fans from phanteks. they sound quieter than any fans he's tested.


----------



## emsj86

Just posted to the amateur mod of the month. (I have no shot) but hopefully my lil enthoo pro that could gets some looks


----------



## LeonidasD

Hey All,

Was linked here from LinusTechTips, would be great if anyone could help me out.

Just wondering if there are ways to replace the tinted window on the Phanteks enthoo pro to a clear more scratch resistant one as i have a white build and i hate the grey it makes it look.

All suggestions welcome!

(I can laser print if necessary)

Thanks


----------



## taem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> Fan Control is automatic via FanXpert MoBo utility and 3 Phateks Hubs
> 
> Channel 1 (1800 - 3200 rpm typical)
> CPU Header => Pump No.1
> CPU_OPT Header => Pump No.2
> 
> Channel 2 (fans shut off below 325 rpm, once triggered by temps, 350 - 880 rpm typical)
> CHA_1 Header => Hub No.1 => (6) Phanteks F140SP's on XT45-420
> 
> Channel 3 (fans shut off below 325 rpm, once triggered by temps, 350 - 850 rpm typical)
> CHA_2 Header => Hub No.4 => (4) Phanteks F140SP's on UT60-280
> 
> Channel 4 (fans shut off below 325 rpm, once triggered by temps, 350 - 650 rpm typical)
> CHA_1 Header => Hub No.1 => (5) Phanteks F140SP Case fans


I don't want to install AI Suite III since the Asus uefi fan control is so good, but using uefi q-fan control, the Phanteks hubs cannot go nearly that low in rpm. Noctua 3 pin fans only go to 700rpm minimum; the stock Primo Phanteks SPs can only go to about 600rpm minimum.

So I'm gonna have to either install AI Suite for Fan Xpert 3 (which can take the fans lower) or buy a bunch of 140MPs. The MP fans are really nice, I have 2 of them atm. I think I'd rather pay the $130 or so for the fans than use AI Suite; I far far prefer the reporting of hwinfo, especially since it can output to RTSS, but if I run the two in parallel I get high cpu usage polling issues.

At 700rpm, the Noctua fans that were dead silent in my Define R4 are noticeable in the Primo. I don't know if it's because the case is not silenced, or because fans are louder on rads, but my low fpi rad / low rpm fan quiet build really isn't quiet at all. Much quieter at load yes; but noticeable at idle / basic usage, and thta's not a good tradeoff imho.


----------



## pshootr

This HUB discussion is over complicated and way out of hand.









1. The SATA power connector should only be used when connecting the HUB to a "True" PWM header or you will not have proper control of your fans. So if you need the SATA connector due to amperage limitations of your MB header (ie: fans exceed amperage limit of header), then you should only connect the HUB to a PWM header on your MB, or else your fans will likely run at full speed only. Keep in mind that the MB header/HUB may not exceed 30 watts according to the manual.

2. Yes you can use 3 OR 4 pin fans on the HUB, and it will work fine.

3. Yes you can use the CPU_OPT header (4 pin) for the HUB. (if CPU_OPT is not PWM, then do not use the SATA cable) Keep in mind that as pointed out by "JackNaylorPE" your HUB will now follow the same curve as the CPU header.

Now wasn't that simple..









Edit: Updated.


----------



## brian-phanteks

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pshootr*
> 
> This HUB discussion is over complicated and way out of hand.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 1. Only use the SATA cable if you are connecting the HUB to a true PWM header. (has nothing to do with how many fans you use)
> 
> 2. Yes you can use 3 OR 4 pin fans on the HUB, and it will work fine.
> 
> 3. Yes you can use the CPU_OPT header (4 pin) for the HUB. (if CPU_OPT is not PWM, then do not use the SATA cable)
> 
> Now wasn't that simple..


What @pshootr said.








Another FAQ is _Can I run the hub using just the SATA?_ No. The 4-pin cable must be connected to the motherboard.

If that doesnt work then message @brian-phanteks


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brian-phanteks*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *pshootr*
> 
> This HUB discussion is over complicated and way out of hand.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *
> 1. Only use the SATA cable if you are connecting the HUB to a true PWM header. (has nothing to do with how many fans you use)*
> 
> 2. Yes you can use 3 OR 4 pin fans on the HUB, and it will work fine.
> 
> 3. Yes you can use the CPU_OPT header (4 pin) for the HUB. (if CPU_OPT is not PWM, then do not use the SATA cable)
> 
> Now wasn't that simple..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What @pshootr said.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Another FAQ is _Can I run the hub using just the SATA?_ No. The 4-pin cable must be connected to the motherboard.
> 
> If that doesnt work then message @brian-phanteks
Click to expand...

If pshootr's #1 is correct than is it only specific to the hub with a SATA connector in the Luxe/Pro/et al? It seems to contradict the sticker found on the Molex connector on the hub in the Primo.



A LOT of people have had issues in this forum connecting the Molex or SATA connector on either hub even with it is connected to their PWM CPU_FAN header.


----------



## brian-phanteks

With the original Primos/Molex PWM hub, the sticker was added as a precaution.
1. Dont connect this Molex cable first.
This is because you first need to know if your fan header is true PWM or not. From the previous posts. We know that is you connect the Molex/SATA plug while receive a voltage controlled signal that the fans will run at 100%. This is because the voltage is being brought back to 12V by the molex/SATA even though the MB is sending a lower voltage. If you are receiving a PWM signal then the molex/SATA is optional. There should not be any issue with running 4 fans off the hub without the need for some support from the molex/SATA. However if you are running 11 fans then it would be a good idea to connect the molex/SATA for some help.

2. Only connect this molex cable if your motherboard does not provide sufficient power.
As stated above. In the case of PWM signal, plug the molex/SATA for support running multiple fans. Voltage mode will cause the fans to run 100%.

3. Please check www.phanteks.com for compatibility.
The PWM hub manual has not been uploaded. I will do that ASAP.

There was a user who are having trouble controlling the fan speed through BIOS. Probably because some settings are not correct. This must be true since the same user installed FanXpert and was able to drop the speed to about 400rpm. (stock Phanteks 140mm fans)

I understand some customers might not was to install AiSuite and claim the hub does not work, but its not the ability or lack of ability of the PWM hub to control the fan speed, its the signal coming from the motherboard as seen in the stated case above.


----------



## dainfamous

I have the phanteks hub. By not supplying it with power from the PSU would it not draw too much power from the single header on the motherboard if you have all the fan slots on the hub filled?


----------



## dainfamous

^^^^ Oops never mind. It seems though that once you plug a bunch of fans on the hub you would need the 12V power and any kind of PWM activity is lost to the fans. PWM does work sort of anyway with no 12V power. I was just hoping it would work with more than just 4 fans thus having to use 12V.


----------



## pshootr

Deleted: This post covers it.


----------



## brian-phanteks

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dainfamous*
> 
> I have the phanteks hub. By not supplying it with power from the PSU would it not draw too much power from the single header on the motherboard if you have all the fan slots on the hub filled?


This would depend on how much current your fans draw as well as how much current your fan header supports.
If you are using a PWM signal then you can connect the PSU power. No problem.
If you are using a voltage controlled signal then you should not exceed the power of your motherboard or you connect the PSU power and run the fans at 100%.


----------



## Joey2Sites

between the bitfenix, vantek and nzxt sentry 3,.. idk what looks better.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LeonidasD*
> 
> Hey All,
> 
> Was linked here from LinusTechTips, would be great if anyone could help me out.
> 
> Just wondering if there are ways to replace the tinted window on the Phanteks enthoo pro to a clear more scratch resistant one as i have a white build and i hate the grey it makes it look.
> 
> All suggestions welcome!
> 
> (I can laser print if necessary)
> 
> Thanks


Hey, MNPCTech is curently working on a much better quality acrylic window for the Pro/Luxe. They're hopefully going to do a clear and a smoke version, for both the big and the small window. You might have to wait a couple weeks for it to be available.


----------



## Joey2Sites

If you were just asking if it can be removed, then yes, it can be removed pretty easily.


----------



## LeonidasD

Thanks heaps for this, will definitely try to get one







hope shipping to aus isnt too much though


----------



## taem

With an alphacool 480 rad in bottom in the Primo, is there space to use this port as a drain?



Maybe if I remove lower front fan?


----------



## Dorito Bandit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LeonidasD*
> 
> Hey All,
> 
> Was linked here from LinusTechTips, would be great if anyone could help me out.
> 
> Just wondering if there are ways to replace the tinted window on the Phanteks enthoo pro to a clear more scratch resistant one as i have a white build and i hate the grey it makes it look.
> 
> All suggestions welcome!
> 
> (I can laser print if necessary)
> 
> Thanks


Hi LeonidasD, I am the one who sent you here.







Welcome to the forums and if you have any more questions about the Enthoo Pro, this is a great place to ask them. Since there are several cases discussed in this thread, it's a good idea to title your postings with the case name. This will help those who own the same case see those specific questions more easily.

I hope you are able to get a clearer replacemnet window. Best of luck to you.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LeonidasD*
> 
> Thanks heaps for this, will definitely try to get one
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> hope shipping to aus isnt too much though


Also worth noting a few guys here have replaced their side panel altogether with a clear or smoked acrylic panel attached with magnets... this could be something you might like.. or maybe not.. if you are interested im sure on could link you to the post :0


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *LeonidasD*
> 
> Thanks heaps for this, will definitely try to get one
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> hope shipping to aus isnt too much though
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also worth noting a few guys here have replaced their side panel altogether with a clear or smoked acrylic panel attached with magnets... this could be something you might like.. or maybe not.. if you are interested im sure on could link you to the post :0
Click to expand...

Yeah for such a simple mod it looked pretty good. See here if that interests you ...

http://www.overclock.net/t/1418637/official-case-phanteks-club-enthoo-primo-enthoo-luxe-enthoo-pro-lovers-owners/8360_40#post_23590352


----------



## Dorito Bandit

*^* Thanks you two above! I knew someone had done this but I couldn't remember who it was.


----------



## OneSeeker

Deepcool dc rgb led can control via luxe led control?
Color match?
No one sell phanteks multicolor led strip in my country, sad~


----------



## LeonidasD

Thanks Everyone!, Ill see how the MNPCTech looks and then decide on either that or the full custom one, Thanks Heaps guys


----------



## MrGrievous

Enthoo Pro/Luxe

So I have a question since my watercooling package will be arriving soon I want to ask those that used the front of the case to mount a 240 rad there is there room to use the bottom port of the alphacool rads as a drain? Is there enough room to hook a slim 90 and a quick disconnect essentially at the bottom of the radiator?

EDIT: If a drain does fit can I use dual, single, or no rotary fittings on the 90 degree fitting?


----------



## JaredLaskey82

Managed to get the Alphacool NexXxoS Monsta 360mm White Special Edition with the three Noctua NF-F12 PWM 120mm Fan fitted.
Using them as an exhausting as I don't want to be pushing warm air into the case.

Will be bleading the loop from my old rig this weekend and starting the mad dash to get everything in I want to move over to the new rig.
Nothing worse than not having a computer and my tablet just does not cut it.











Will keep you all posted.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LeonidasD*
> 
> Thanks Everyone!, Ill see how the MNPCTech looks and then decide on either that or the full custom one, Thanks Heaps guys


Can you link me to what you are talking about at MNPC exactly? I can't find any panels specific to Phanteks there (see H440, Prodigy&#8230.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrGrievous*
> 
> Enthoo Pro/Luxe
> 
> So I have a question since my watercooling package will be arriving soon I want to ask those that used the front of the case to mount a 240 rad there is there room to use the bottom port of the alphacool rads as a drain? Is there enough room to hook a slim 90 and a quick disconnect essentially at the bottom of the radiator?
> 
> EDIT: If a drain does fit can I use dual, single, or no rotary fittings on the 90 degree fitting?


I think it is _just_ too tight a space, which totally sucks, but I would have to bring a 90 in to work where my (slow) build is at present to be sure.

I have an XT45 240 mounted in my Pro front; ports are presently on top but need to take it off again-and maybe was gonna flip it around-anyway. I am not set on a drain but it would be nice (and the drain port on rad makes so much easier in general).

Edit: Oh yeah I do have a Barrow 90 adapter here but no fitting. Well the threaded part touches the rad with other end touching case bottom so it looks like there would not be enough room for an attached fitting. I still can't say 100% though.


----------



## DMatthewStewart

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *synphul*
> 
> Not sure what you mean, modding the luxe from limited to full hue somehow? May not be what you're talking about but I'm working on getting a multicolor led strip into my pro. It's one of those with the remote, 20 color rgb+w which has independent alternating pure white leds. (snipped)


My Primo has the female molex for LED strips. Any idea is this is something that Phanteks is going to be releasing? Right now, their LED strips are a 4 pin fan plug. I originally ordered a Luxe, it came in damaged, and after returning it I got the Primo. But, Im wondering if I could just get the LED stripe intended for the Luxe and just mod the plug(s). Either that or wait for the Primo LED strips...if they even have intention of making such a product. Im just confused as to why they made a female molex on the Primo but then released their LED strips as 4 pin fan plugs. I asked the entire forum earlier but I think everyone blew right by my post.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DMatthewStewart*
> 
> My Primo has the female molex for LED strips. Any idea is this is something that Phanteks is going to be releasing? Right now, their LED strips are a 4 pin fan plug. I originally ordered a Luxe, it came in damaged, and after returning it I got the Primo. But, Im wondering if I could just get the LED stripe intended for the Luxe and just mod the plug(s). Either that or wait for the Primo LED strips...if they even have intention of making such a product. Im just confused as to why they made a female molex on the Primo but then released their LED strips as 4 pin fan plugs. I asked the entire forum earlier but I think everyone blew right by my post.


The strip for the Luxe plugs into it's built-in RGB controller, something the Primo does not have. The Luxe's optional led strip accessory is not meant to just be plugged into a 12v switch like comes with the Primo.

The Primo's LED plug allows the addition of a regular LED strip that just needs a 12v connection to turn on/off along with the other LEDs in the case.


----------



## DMatthewStewart

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> The strip for the Luxe plugs into it's built-in RGB controller, something the Primo does not have. The Luxe's optional led strip accessory is not meant to just be plugged into a 12v switch like comes with the Primo.
> 
> The Primo's LED plug allows the addition of a regular LED strip that just needs a 12v connection to turn on/off along with the other LEDs in the case.


Ok. But where can I find an LED strip that has a just a male molex (12v) connector?

I forgot the luxe had the RGB controller built in.


----------



## brian-phanteks

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DMatthewStewart*
> 
> My Primo has the female molex for LED strips. Any idea is this is something that Phanteks is going to be releasing? Right now, their LED strips are a 4 pin fan plug. I originally ordered a Luxe, it came in damaged, and after returning it I got the Primo. But, Im wondering if I could just get the LED stripe intended for the Luxe and just mod the plug(s). Either that or wait for the Primo LED strips...if they even have intention of making such a product. Im just confused as to why they made a female molex on the Primo but then released their LED strips as 4 pin fan plugs. I asked the entire forum earlier but I think everyone blew right by my post.


The Luxes RGB LED connector is NOT a 4-pin fan connector. IF you connect this to your motherboard, damage will occur. Either to your motherboard or the LED PCB.
The molex on the Primo can be used to power any accessory up to 1A. The idea was to connect an LED strip from a different company that used a molex to receive power. By connecting this LED strip or other accessory, the user would be able to turn it on and off at the same time as the rest of the Primo LED lights (front and top LED strip, as well as front LED fans).


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DMatthewStewart*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> The strip for the Luxe plugs into it's built-in RGB controller, something the Primo does not have. The Luxe's optional led strip accessory is not meant to just be plugged into a 12v switch like comes with the Primo.
> 
> The Primo's LED plug allows the addition of a regular LED strip that just needs a 12v connection to turn on/off along with the other LEDs in the case.
> 
> 
> 
> *Ok. But where can I find an LED strip that has a just a male molex (12v) connector?*
> 
> I forgot the luxe had the RGB controller built in.
Click to expand...

http://www.icemodz.com/#!/Single-Color-LED-Strip-choose-size-Color/p/23031229/category=5346676
Choose color, choose length, and either 3-pin fan plug or 4-pin molex.
FWIW IceModz LED strips are some of the very best I've ever used, and also Dazmode's Darkside is another high quality line of LEDs that likewise, at least at PPCs, you can choose the connector:
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalogsearch/result/?q=darkside+led

All that comes to mind, but I'm sure there are others, or you can always use a an adapter to connect a strip that uses a fan connector instead.


----------



## DMatthewStewart

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brian-phanteks*
> 
> The Luxes RGB LED connector is NOT a 4-pin fan connector. IF you connect this to your motherboard, damage will occur. Either to your motherboard or the LED PCB.
> The molex on the Primo can be used to power any accessory up to 1A. The idea was to connect an LED strip from a different company that used a molex to receive power. By connecting this LED strip or other accessory, the user would be able to turn it on and off at the same time as the rest of the Primo LED lights (front and top LED strip, as well as front LED fans).


Is the Luxe LED strip utilizing the same type of plug as a 4 pin PWM fan? I mean, you guys didnt create a new cast just for that plug, right? Or maybe you did.

I understand how a plug works. (RE: "The idea was to connect an LED strip from a different company that used a molex to receive power) but does that mean that Phanteks does NOT have plans to make an LED strip specific to the Primo? The entire reason why I was asking in the first place was to decide if I should wait for a Primo specific LED strip. Id rather have a Phateks product. Built if there is no plan to make one, or it is far out in the future, then I will utilize any light strip I can find (under 1A that is







) And thanks for the amp spec on that plug. I thought it was 1A or lower but I wasnt 100% sure.


----------



## brian-phanteks

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DMatthewStewart*
> 
> Is the Luxe LED strip utilizing the same type of plug as a 4 pin PWM fan? I mean, you guys didnt create a new cast just for that plug, right? Or maybe you did.
> 
> I understand how a plug works. (RE: "The idea was to connect an LED strip from a different company that used a molex to receive power) but does that mean that Phanteks does NOT have plans to make an LED strip specific to the Primo? The entire reason why I was asking in the first place was to decide if I should wait for a Primo specific LED strip. Id rather have a Phateks product. Built if there is no plan to make one, or it is far out in the future, then I will utilize any light strip I can find (under 1A that is
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ) And thanks for the amp spec on that plug. I thought it was 1A or lower but I wasnt 100% sure.


The plug is not the same as a 4-pin fan.
At this time there is nothing special Phanteks can do to create an innovative LED strip. It would be best if you purchased a generic strip that is molex powered.


----------



## MrGrievous

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> I think it is _just_ too tight a space, which totally sucks, but I would have to bring a 90 in to work where my (slow) build is at present to be sure.
> 
> I have an XT45 240 mounted in my Pro front; ports are presently on top but need to take it off again-and maybe was gonna flip it around-anyway. I am not set on a drain but it would be nice (and the drain port on rad makes so much easier in general).
> 
> Edit: Oh yeah I do have a Barrow 90 adapter here but no fitting. Well the threaded part touches the rad with other end touching case bottom so it looks like there would not be enough room for an attached fitting. I still can't say 100% though.


Thank you for responding, once my package arrives I'll be able to check myself. Most likely though I'll just have to position the ports at the bottom (would rated it be position top for r movignth air bibles more easily) and just use the bleed valve to get rid of the trapped air.


----------



## maskymus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *taem*
> 
> With an alphacool 480 rad in bottom in the Primo, is there space to use this port as a drain?
> 
> 
> 
> Maybe if I remove lower front fan?


Yes, you can use it as a drain port. Of course lower fan has to be removed.
I tried such config: BP-MB90DRG14 + bitspower valve + BP-MB90R + stop plug
I have modified front, so now I have extra room to use BP-MBRG + valve + stop plug.
Photo with Alphacool 80mm rad (with drain port at the bottom to get more water out):


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## Trestles126

If anyone lives in so cal and wants to buy my luxe case off me with 2 led phanteks strips message me I'm moving onto a case labs


----------



## DMatthewStewart

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brian-phanteks*
> 
> The plug is not the same as a 4-pin fan.
> At this time there is nothing special Phanteks can do to create an innovative LED strip. It would be best if you purchased a generic strip that is molex powered.


Really? Its a different size? Did you guys have to have anew mold created for that or was it an existing mold?

So I will just look for any LED strip that has the correct plug. Thanks. If you hadnt told me that I wouldve waited a while. And I really need to get some light into that case. If I had better lighting in the room then it problem wouldnt be an issue.


----------



## DMatthewStewart

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> http://www.icemodz.com/#!/Single-Color-LED-Strip-choose-size-Color/p/23031229/category=5346676
> Choose color, choose length, and either 3-pin fan plug or 4-pin molex.
> FWIW IceModz LED strips are some of the very best I've ever used, and also Dazmode's Darkside is another high quality line of LEDs that likewise, at least at PPCs, you can choose the connector:
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalogsearch/result/?q=darkside+led
> 
> All that comes to mind, but I'm sure there are others, or you can always use a an adapter to connect a strip that uses a fan connector instead.


You rule! Thanks.


----------



## DMatthewStewart

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> you can always use a an adapter to connect a strip that uses a fan connector instead.


Also, I wasnt stuck on using the molex that is pre-wired in the Primo case. I was just trying to figure out if Phanteks was planning on releasing a product for that plug. So, since they dont have plans, I can really branch out into any lighting and any connector. I just figured if they were going to release something for that specific plug, I would wait and get it/use that plug.

So Im going to get an Icemodz and Darkside strip and see which one I like best. It cant hurt to have both. they are cheap enough.


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LeonidasD*
> 
> Hey All,
> 
> Was linked here from LinusTechTips, would be great if anyone could help me out.
> 
> Just wondering if there are ways to replace the tinted window on the Phanteks enthoo pro to a clear more scratch resistant one as i have a white build and i hate the grey it makes it look.
> 
> All suggestions welcome!
> 
> (I can laser print if necessary)
> 
> Thanks


B. I'm at work right now but if you use the search bar for he thread. Not too long ago there was a guy who replaced the whole panel by using acrylic ordered on line. Than 3m tape and magnets to secure it. Looked a lot better than it sound he also took pictures. I believe the measurements were 19.25 x 18.25 and thickness 3/16 if I remember right. Another option is to grind off where the window is held in than use u channel purchased from Home Depot and acrylic mounted by 3m. (See bill Owens videos on YouTube as he does a titori on window mods) hopefully this helps somewhat


----------



## brian-phanteks

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DMatthewStewart*
> 
> Really? Its a different size? Did you guys have to have anew mold created for that or was it an existing mold?
> 
> So I will just look for any LED strip that has the correct plug. Thanks. If you hadnt told me that I wouldve waited a while. And I really need to get some light into that case. If I had better lighting in the room then it problem wouldnt be an issue.


Im not sure what the connector is called but here is a picture.


----------



## deehoC

I am now a proud owner of an Enthoo Luxe. Goodbye fugly HAF 912, Hello Luxury ^_^


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Ain't that the truth. Never understand the HAF appeal.

Edit: You know I actually felt a _little_ bad about that comment and then I go to the WC Club thread and my eyes are immediately assaulted with this:


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brian-phanteks*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *DMatthewStewart*
> 
> Really? Its a different size? Did you guys have to have anew mold created for that or was it an existing mold?
> 
> So I will just look for any LED strip that has the correct plug. Thanks. If you hadnt told me that I wouldve waited a while. And I really need to get some light into that case. If I had better lighting in the room then it problem wouldnt be an issue.
> 
> 
> 
> Im not sure what the connector is called but here is a picture.
Click to expand...

Looks like a JST SM-4 pin
http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=jst+sm+4-pin


----------



## Dorito Bandit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *deehoC*
> 
> 
> 
> I am now a proud owner of an Enthoo Luxe. Goodbye fugly HAF 912, Hello Luxury ^_^


Welcome to the world of suit and ties!















Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> Ain't that the truth. Never understand the HAF appeal.
> 
> Edit: You know I actually felt a _little_ bad about that comment and then I go to the WC Club thread and my eyes are immediately assaulted with this:


What a beauty!


----------



## taem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *maskymus*
> 
> Yes, you can use it as a drain port. Of course lower fan has to be removed.
> I tried such config: BP-MB90DRG14 + bitspower valve + BP-MB90R + stop plug
> I have modified front, so now I have extra room to use BP-MBRG + valve + stop plug.
> Photo with Alphacool 80mm rad (with drain port at the bottom to get more water out):
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


So you definitely can't use a low profile 90 elbow to run the drain off to the side?

And if you put the drain fittings coming out of the front of the case, the front fan grill fits without modding? Because the BP valve alone is a pretty long fitting, and you need a male to male as well as a plug. If there is that much room, just eyeballing it it seems like you should be able to run a drain off to the side.


----------



## Joey2Sites

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> Can you link me to what you are talking about at MNPC exactly? I can't find any panels specific to Phanteks there (see H440, Prodigy&#8230.
> .


They just made the nzxt h440 this week, but they said the phanteks windows are coming soon. It's not on the website yet but it will be the same quality as the nzxt h440 replacement window. You can go to the youtube video about the nzxt panels and in the comments they discuss the phanteks window.


----------



## Joey2Sites

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DMatthewStewart*
> 
> Really? Its a different size? Did you guys have to have anew mold created for that or was it an existing mold?
> 
> So I will just look for any LED strip that has the correct plug. Thanks. If you hadnt told me that I wouldve waited a while. And I really need to get some light into that case. If I had better lighting in the room then it problem wouldnt be an issue.


most LED strips use 4 pin connectors.. it's a totally different connector than a fan connector. I guess because LED strips are used for tons of things, not just PC builds, and pc fan connectors are only used for pc fans. So, they wouldnt have had to make a new mold, they just used a regular LED mold.. it just isnt a fan connector.


----------



## Joey2Sites

does anyone have the hole dimensions for the pump bracket?

or.. does the xspc d5 pump/tank res fit in the mounting holes?


----------



## MrGrievous

Does anyone remember for those following this forum for a long time know what was used as a spacer to a new acyrilc panel replacement? I know I saw a picture of it and a description of what was used but the post is so far back.


----------



## MrGrievous

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Joey2Sites*
> 
> does anyone have the hole dimensions for the pump bracket?
> 
> or.. does the xspc d5 pump/tank res fit in the mounting holes?


The pump bracket is designed to accomodate all the major brand reservoirs so You are good to go with it.


----------



## deehoC

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> Ain't that the truth. Never understand the HAF appeal.
> 
> Edit: You know I actually felt a _little_ bad about that comment and then I go to the WC Club thread and my eyes are immediately assaulted with this:






That is a nice looking HAF but my 912 was just stock so very plain looking.

I've got everything installed in the Luxe now and its freaking awesome but I ran into 2 issues during my case migration.

First issue was I ran out of sata cables and ended up using one from an ancient OCZ Modxstream I had lying around to connect my DVD-RW to my PSU and I'm pretty sure it's not compatible since I'd get power for all of half a second before my PC shut down immediately. Fans would turn about a quarter of a full spin then die lol. Shoulda known better cuz I ran into this same issue last time I built into my HAF 912 but I totally forgot..

Second issue is one of my included 140mm fans is making a weird noise and its clearly wobbling when spinning. The impeller seems like its not being pushed down far enough onto the hub but even after trying to force it by hand the issue still persists. I purchased through NCIX so I'm curious if they'll just replace the fan themselves or if I'll have to RMA it to Phanteks?

Heres the old and busted -> 

Heres the new hotness


----------



## synphul

Congrats deehoC, definitely looks a lot nicer.


----------



## doyll

I know it's a month late, but...

Enthoo Mini-XL review by Jesse aka Captain CurrySauce on The ModZoo



Written Review
http://themodzoo.com/2015/02/reviews/cases/mid-tower/enthoo-mini-xl-review/

There is a preview of video review on Facebook
Jump to 2:36 to see it.
https://www.facebook.com/video.php?v=802899416457431&fref=nf

I really like the Enthoo Mini-XL, but I prefer ATX platform.
Case is big enough to accommodate an ATX layout if PSU was moved to bottom, but would require different back and motherboard mounting panesl.
Here's a photoshop of of what the back would look like for ATX


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrGrievous*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Joey2Sites*
> 
> does anyone have the hole dimensions for the pump bracket?
> 
> or.. does the xspc d5 pump/tank res fit in the mounting holes?
> 
> 
> 
> The pump bracket is designed to accomodate all the major brand reservoirs so You are good to go with it.
Click to expand...

I'm not sure what you meant.

If by '_xspc d5 pump/tank res_' you mean the XSPC Photon D5 Reservoir/Pump Combo and by "_pump bracket_" you really meant the reservoir bracket, then no, the reservoir bracket holes do not line up, at least not with the bracket in the Primo. You would need to drill your own or because the Photon has a flat backplate you can attach it with 'Industrial Strength Velcro' (that's what I did) or double sided tape.

If you did mean just a D5 pump on the pump bracket then I'm not sure. I have an EK-XTOP D5 Vario pump and the holes on it's bracket do not line up with the mounting holes on the Primo's pump bracket.

I do know for certain that an XSPC Photon D5 pump/res combo will not mount to the pump bracket. I'm unaware of any other XSPC 'd5 pump/tank res' that's not a bay reservoir.


----------



## Dartulius

Sorry if these have been already answered but I had a couple of questions about the Evolv if anyone could help me out:

What rad combinations are possible? Can you fit a 240 up front AND on top?

What about a 280 on each?

What kind of clearance is there for rads and fans?

Finally, does the max GPU length that they have listed on the site take into consideration the front fan? Based on what I've seen it doesn't seem so, but just wanted to be sure!

Thanks!


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *deehoC*
> 
> That is a nice looking HAF but my 912 was just stock so very plain looking.


Sure, if any HAF is I guess. The photo just reminded me of why I don't like them and it was amusing to see it first thing after I made that comment. I just never liked the bulkiness and blockiness in general and that huge fan on the window is an aesthetic monstrosity.

Guys build was not bad at all, sure. And I never would have posted the pic if I thought he might come in here&#8230;plus that was a "before" pic anyway. His "after" of his present set up was noice.


----------



## ThisisSataaa

i have almost all my parts for my entho primo SE build so excited to get started just waiting on my 2nd gtx 980 and some water blocks


----------



## DMatthewStewart

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brian-phanteks*
> 
> Im not sure what the connector is called but here is a picture.


Cool. Someone else here also informed that there are other 4 pin connectors that are not for fans. I wasnt even aware of that. Every time I saw a 4 pin plug for anything computer related, it was for a fan.


----------



## Joey2Sites

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> I'm not sure what you meant.
> 
> If by '_xspc d5 pump/tank res_' you mean the XSPC Photon D5 Reservoir/Pump Combo and by "_pump bracket_" you really meant the reservoir bracket, then no, the reservoir bracket holes do not line up, at least not with the bracket in the Primo. You would need to drill your own or because the Photon has a flat backplate you can attach it with 'Industrial Strength Velcro' (that's what I did) or double sided tape.
> 
> If you did mean just a D5 pump on the pump bracket then I'm not sure. I have an EK-XTOP D5 Vario pump and the holes on it's bracket do not line up with the mounting holes on the Primo's pump bracket.
> 
> I do know for certain that an XSPC Photon D5 pump/res combo will not mount to the pump bracket. I'm unaware of any other XSPC 'd5 pump/tank res' that's not a bay reservoir.


I meant this.. xspc calls it the d5 tank res



and by pump bracket.. i meant this..


----------



## Joey2Sites

Can anyone post a picture of the pump bracket with a ruler next to the holes? I can't find the dimensions of the mounting holes anywhere. Even in the manual, it has some dimensions, but not the helpful dimensions lol.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Joey2Sites*
> 
> I meant this.. xspc calls it the d5 tank res
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Image 1
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and by pump bracket.. i meant this..
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Image 2


lol, you meant exactly what you wrote. My bad. I had completely forgotten about that res/pump combo.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Joey2Sites*
> 
> Can anyone post a picture of the pump bracket with a ruler next to the holes? I can't find the dimensions of the mounting holes anywhere. Even in the manual, it has some dimensions, but not the helpful dimensions lol.


Inside (m3?) threaded holes are 42mm centered square with a hole in the center, and outside slots are 4.5mm wide and 72mm outside square.




Hope that helps you.


----------



## MrGrievous

So with the side cover removed and theh bottom of the optical drive cage surgically removed I ended up with this and a 90 degree rotary may just fit down there.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

"Surgically" how? I was hoping to just remove the bottom but it was one piece with the side...


----------



## Joey2Sites

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> lol, you meant exactly what you wrote. My bad. I had completely forgotten about that res/pump combo.
> Inside (m3?) threaded holes are 42mm centered square with a hole in the center, and outside slots are 4.5mm wide and 72mm outside square.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hope that helps you.


THANK YOU SO MUCH! for the dimensions.


----------



## MrGrievous

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> "Surgically" how? I was hoping to just remove the bottom but it was one piece with the side...


I'll post a pic later detailing more but I used sheers to cut in the corner between the side and the bottom piece of the optical drive.


----------



## Joey2Sites

I'm going to go with a triple 120 rad in the top and a dual 120 in the front. I figured this way I don't have to change the case at all, except remove the drive cages. In fact, If I went with the dual 120 in the bottom instead of front I could keep the top HDD cage in, but then I'd have no place for the pump. Unless I just drilled holes in the psu cover and mounted it there.. idk.

I have an optical drive, but the bottom two optical bays will be converted to hold 3 hard drives, and the SSD's I have a great idea for that I havent seen anyone else do.

Water cooling:

EK cpu block
Ek thermosphere for my gtx 960
Ek FCQK5000 for the PNY Quadro K4200 Im gonna get. (or I could use another thermosphere to match the 960)
xspc AX360, AX240
xspc d5 tank res

Monsoon fittings/tubing or primochill fittings/tubing .. hardline









Now to buy one part at a time every pay check for the next couple months lol.


----------



## Joey2Sites

the d5 tank res is 72mm wide







it should fit perfectly. and since the pump bracket uses slots instead of holes.. it doesn't have to align perfectly, so no matter what, it will fit nicely. thanks for taking the dimensions for me.


----------



## MrPatate

*Enthoo Luxe*

It finally arrived!! It's really well built (like many others mentioned), I don't regret at all and will definitely buy the 1M or 2M LED strip for the inside of the case and a few more fans.

The hardware box was firmly attach to the HDD cages. But if the case would have been upside down while shipping, the box would probably slide and than cause the damages we have seen so many times here. Also the window is perfectly tinted and the paint job is excellent (I mention it since a lot of people got defective unit).


First time I see this, thumbscrew with rubber gasket (might be the norm now, wasn't last time I bought a case).


Cable management is great except for people like me that uses all 6 HDD slots (8 sata devices total). Had to make changes a few time so the back panel could close without a bulge. Maybe custom length SATA and power cables would have help, also since bottom PSU mounting is now the norm, would be nice if PSU makers would invert their sata power connector so the cable can go from bottom to top, instead of coming from bottom, then going at the top (1st connector) and then bottom again(last connector). I removed the fan controller, will get a better one later. One HDD bracket was really warped, it felt like I was gonna break it to fit an HDD in it.

IMPORTANT for new owners: Screw the PSU cover back on BEFORE doing all your cable management. The screws goes exactly where the cables are attached with the bottom straps.







lol


Damn that's clean! Never had such a clean looking build. Yes I still use the stock cooler and onboard graphics, this is a budget build (i5 4590, 8GB, Gigabyte GA-Z97X-UD5H and EVGA SuperNOVA 850 G2). Will had 2-3 fans soon and when the budget allows it a GPU. I had to screw my 5.25'' HDD dock because the quick lock didn't hold it at all (tried with an old DVD and it's solid, so the problem is my dock, not the case). All fans are stock, I switch the top one to intake and moved it to the top middle. It's very silent under normal load. My phone app says 31db at 1 foot (maybe not the most precise tool, but the result is believable).


I thought I was getting a case must smaller than my now retired Lian-Li PC-V2000B, I was surprised when I saw how big it was.


*I believe the LED controller has been changed/updated.* Older post mention the color comes back to red after each shutdown, but I booted with each color(10 I believe?) and they all stayed the color it was before shutdown (I waited 5-10minutes between each boot to be sure my test wasn't affected by some capacitor). I haven't tried unplugging the PSU power itself, but even if it didn't remember the last setting because of it, it wouldn't be a big deal unlike daily boot/shutdown like mentioned in older post.

I have a few small cons about this case:
- The bottom filters should have been side removable, every time I picked up the case my hand went naturally at the bottom and the weight of the case is on the small handle of the filter (when you remember it you can be careful, but its easy to forget).
- Dust filter are only good for the big stuff, will probably had a smaller mesh filter on them for dust.
- Front and top panel gives you the feeling you'll break them when removing them (you really have to pull hard on them, they are solid tho), would have better liked them screwed like the rest of the case.
- HDD brackets have a small metallic sticker on them exactly where the drive board is, I removed them and moved them under the bracket to be sure a short wouldn't be an issue.


----------



## Joey2Sites

i dont like the brag.. but i'm pretty much an expert on photoshop ... lol


----------



## Dorito Bandit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrPatate*
> 
> *Enthoo Luxe*
> 
> It finally arrived!! It's really well built (like many others mentioned), I don't regret at all and will definitely buy the 1M or 2M LED strip for the inside of the case and a few more fans.
> 
> The hardware box was firmly attach to the HDD cages. But if the case would have been upside down while shipping, the box would probably slide and than cause the damages we have seen so many times here. Also the window is perfectly tinted and the paint job is excellent (I mention it since a lot of people got defective unit).
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First time I see this, thumbscrew with rubber gasket (might be the norm now, wasn't last time I bought a case).
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cable management is great except for people like me that uses all 6 HDD slots (8 sata devices total). Had to make changes a few time so the back panel could close without a bulge. Maybe custom length SATA and power cables would have help, also since bottom PSU mounting is now the norm, would be nice if PSU makers would invert their sata power connector so the cable can go from bottom to top, instead of coming from bottom, then going at the top (1st connector) and then bottom again(last connector). I removed the fan controller, will get a better one later. One HDD bracket was really warped, it felt like I was gonna break it to fit an HDD in it.
> 
> IMPORTANT for new owners: Screw the PSU cover back on BEFORE doing all your cable management. The screws goes exactly where the cables are attached with the bottom straps.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> lol
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Damn that's clean! Never had such a clean looking build. Yes I still use the stock cooler and onboard graphics, this is a budget build (i5 4590, 8GB, Gigabyte GA-Z97X-UD5H and EVGA SuperNOVA 850 G2). Will had 2-3 fans soon and when the budget allows it a GPU. I had to screw my 5.25'' HDD dock because the quick lock didn't hold it at all (tried with an old DVD and it's solid, so the problem is my dock, not the case). All fans are stock, I switch the top one to intake and moved it to the top middle. It's very silent under normal load. My phone app says 31db at 1 foot (maybe not the most precise tool, but the result is believable).
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I thought I was getting a case must smaller than my now retired Lian-Li PC-V2000B, I was surprised when I saw how big it was.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *I believe the LED controller has been changed/updated.* Older post mention the color comes back to red after each shutdown, but I booted with each color(10 I believe?) and they all stayed the color it was before shutdown (I waited 5-10minutes between each boot to be sure my test wasn't affected by some capacitor). I haven't tried unplugging the PSU power itself, but even if it didn't remember the last setting because of it, it wouldn't be a big deal unlike daily boot/shutdown like mentioned in older post.
> 
> I have a few small cons about this case:
> - The bottom filters should have been side removable, every time I picked up the case my hand went naturally at the bottom and the weight of the case is on the small handle of the filter (when you remember it you can be careful, but its easy to forget).
> - Dust filter are only good for the big stuff, will probably had a smaller mesh filter on them for dust.
> - Front and top panel gives you the feeling you'll break them when removing them (you really have to pull hard on them, they are solid tho), would have better liked them screwed like the rest of the case.
> - HDD brackets have a small metallic sticker on them exactly where the drive board is, I removed them and moved them under the bracket to be sure a short wouldn't be an issue.


Very nice, bro!







I own the Enthoo Pro, which is similar to the Luxe and, I also wish the top of the Pro was easier to remove. Wish they would've used screws to hold the top and front panel on. I don't like the way we have to remove them, I worry I am going to break them every time I have to remove them to clean out the dust. Yes, the bottom dust filters are easily grabbed when picking up the case to move it. I would have instead liked a solid metal mesh bottom, with the actual dust filter slid in (on the inside) on top of that. I still love my case, though!


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dorito Bandit*
> 
> Very nice, bro!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I own the Enthoo Pro, which is similar to the Luxe and, I also wish the top of the Pro was easier to remove. Wish they would've used screws to hold the top and front panel on. I don't like the way we have to remove them, I worry I am going to break them every time I have to remove them to clean out the dust. Yes, the bottom dust filters are easily grabbed when picking up the case to move it. I would have instead liked a solid metal mesh bottom, with the actual dust filter slid in (on the inside) on top of that. I still love my case, though!


I always remove my filters before I move it I picked mine up once and forgot filter slid out lost the 50 lb case bam hit the floor...I almost cried but it didn't damage anything and it was on air cooling then so no harm done but my heart stopped for a moment


----------



## MrPatate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dorito Bandit*
> 
> Very nice, bro!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I own the Enthoo Pro, which is similar to the Luxe and, I also wish the top of the Pro was easier to remove. Wish they would've used screws to hold the top and front panel on. I don't like the way we have to remove them, I worry I am going to break them every time I have to remove them to clean out the dust. Yes, the bottom dust filters are easily grabbed when picking up the case to move it. I would have instead liked a solid metal mesh bottom, with the actual dust filter slid in (on the inside) on top of that. I still love my case, though!


Yeah same here, although filters removed from the side would be more practical than inside I believe (matter of taste).
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> I always remove my filters before I move it I picked mine up once and forgot filter slid out lost the 50 lb case bam hit the floor...I almost cried but it didn't damage anything and it was on air cooling then so no harm done but my heart stopped for a moment


Issshh that's scary!

I'll definitely make a base with wheels for easy moving around (rubber feet on carpet makes it impossible to slide forward to access it). It's the only part I miss about my PC-V2000B


----------



## owcraftsman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrGrievous*
> 
> Does anyone remember for those following this forum for a long time know what was used as a spacer to a new acyrilc panel replacement? I know I saw a picture of it and a description of what was used but the post is so far back.


I used dbl sided foam tape for padding then velcro tape over that. I posted here way back not sure where atm

You can see in the pic I bought 1" wide and ripped into thirds with an exacto knife but here is a good option too

http://www.ebay.com/itm/2-x-Auto-Truck-Car-Acrylic-Foam-Double-Sided-Attachment-Tape-Adhesive-3m-x-10mm-/141353432266?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item20e95234ca


----------



## MrGrievous

So here is what i've been doing to my case this past week. Been fixing some of the minor annoyances I had with the case


----------



## MrGrievous

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *owcraftsman*
> 
> I used dbl sided foam tape for padding then velcro tape over that. I posted here way back not sure where atm
> You can see in the pic I bought 1" wide and ripped into thirds with an exacto knife but here is a good option too
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/2-x-Auto-Truck-Car-Acrylic-Foam-Double-Sided-Attachment-Tape-Adhesive-3m-x-10mm-/141353432266?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item20e95234ca


Thank you just what I was looking for rep +1







I was thinking of maybe using a clear silicon and apply that in a thick line around the edges but I need to order some type of rubber edging for the edgea of the window.

Edit: wait isnt that just double sided foam tape that is also found in home improvement stores like Home Depot? Hmmm will have to check that out today


----------



## owcraftsman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrGrievous*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *owcraftsman*
> 
> I used dbl sided foam tape for padding then velcro tape over that. I posted here way back not sure where atm
> You can see in the pic I bought 1" wide and ripped into thirds with an exacto knife but here is a good option too
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/2-x-Auto-Truck-Car-Acrylic-Foam-Double-Sided-Attachment-Tape-Adhesive-3m-x-10mm-/141353432266?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item20e95234ca
> 
> 
> 
> Thank you just what I was looking for rep +1
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was thinking of maybe using a clear silicon and apply that in a thick line around the edges but I need to order some type of rubber edging for the edgea of the window.
> 
> Edit: wait isnt that just double sided foam tape that is also found in home improvement stores like Home Depot? Hmmm will have to check that out today
Click to expand...

Yes that's where I bought mine (Lowe's). If you can find my post I believe I linked to all supplies but I just took what was on the shelf which is why I had to rip it with a knife.

BTW those mods you did and the glass are exactly why I don't have a Luxe right now. I will when I feel like messing with it because I have working benchtop z97 project rockin a 4790 @ 4.8 needing my Primo but I need a place for my sig rig setup first. I wish the left side drive panel for the Luxe was 1/2 removable like the mini XL.


----------



## wjturner78

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrPatate*
> 
> Yeah same here, although filters removed from the side would be more practical than inside I believe (matter of taste).
> Issshh that's scary!
> 
> I'll definitely make a base with wheels for easy moving around (rubber feet on carpet makes it impossible to slide forward to access it). It's the only part I miss about my PC-V2000B


my Primo weighs a ton! I'm gonna order the dolly base made by thread starter @doyle


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wjturner78*
> 
> my Primo weighs a ton! I'm gonna order the dolly base made by thread starter @doyle


Where do you get them? I'm tired of sounding like a constipated arnold schwarzenegger every time I move my PC.


----------



## wjturner78

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxdarkreap3rxx*
> 
> Where do you get them? I'm tired of sounding like a constipated arnold schwarzenegger every time I move my PC.


message Doyle the thread starter he custom makes them and they are absolutely beautiful I'm in the us and he is over seas but he ships them i know he has sold them to other primo owners and they all have nothing but praise for his work


----------



## wjturner78

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxdarkreap3rxx*
> 
> Where do you get them? I'm tired of sounding like a constipated arnold schwarzenegger every time I move my PC.


I know your rig is heavy like mine. I don't even try to lift it right now I have it on a bench that I can get to all 4 sides and the bottom while I'm building it but once it's done Doyles caster base is a definite must have trying to plug a cable in the back without it is a pain in the a$$ I'd much rather roll it


----------



## MrPatate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wjturner78*
> 
> my Primo weighs a ton! I'm gonna order the dolly base made by thread starter @doyle


I'm making my own, have all the parts, simply have to take the time to do it.


----------



## wjturner78

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrPatate*
> 
> I'm making my own, have all the parts, simply have to take the time to do it.


I thought about it but I'mjust wanting my build done yesterday and he has already pperfected it so I'm gonna use his....


----------



## SLOWION

Got a chance to play with the Phanteks Enthoo Evolv ITX case.

With all of the panels removed...


Next to the original Evolv


I threw my old HTPC in it for funzies. Sorry for the fingerprints lol


And of course a quick review...


----------



## doyll

Looks nice!


----------



## JaredLaskey82

Well about half way through the build. Still waiting on one more shipment of parts.
managed to get most of the loop fitted and even had time to carbon vinyl the aluminum pannels (no more fingerprints)

Will keep you posted, but not having fun using a tablet to update with. Lol


----------



## deehoC

It turns out my 140mm fan wobbling performs fine aside from a tick at 55% RPM so rather than RMA my whole Case (which is what NCIX wanted me to do to replace the single fan) I'll just deal with it until I get my H240-X


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *taem*
> 
> I don't want to install AI Suite III since the Asus uefi fan control is so good, but using uefi q-fan control, the Phanteks hubs cannot go nearly that low in rpm. Noctua 3 pin fans only go to 700rpm minimum; the stock Primo Phanteks SPs can only go to about 600rpm minimum.
> 
> So I'm gonna have to either install AI Suite for Fan Xpert 3 (which can take the fans lower) or buy a bunch of 140MPs. The MP fans are really nice, I have 2 of them atm. I think I'd rather pay the $130 or so for the fans than use AI Suite; I far far prefer the reporting of hwinfo, especially since it can output to RTSS, but if I run the two in parallel I get high cpu usage polling issues.
> 
> At 700rpm, the Noctua fans that were dead silent in my Define R4 are noticeable in the Primo. I don't know if it's because the case is not silenced, or because fans are louder on rads, but my low fpi rad / low rpm fan quiet build really isn't quiet at all. Much quieter at load yes; but noticeable at idle / basic usage, and thta's not a good tradeoff imho.


FanXpert is far superior to the limited BIOS control... the low rpm limitation is the fault of BIOS limitations not the fans themselves. Please note that you can use FanXpert w/o AiSuite. Instructions are in the Asus forums and as I recall it involves killing the startup of AiSuite but leaving Fan alone.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pshootr*
> 
> This HUB discussion is over complicated and way out of hand.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 1. Only use the SATA cable if you are connecting the HUB to a true PWM header. (has nothing to do with how many fans you use)
> 
> 2. Yes you can use 3 OR 4 pin fans on the HUB, and it will work fine.
> 
> 3. Yes you can use the CPU_OPT header (4 pin) for the HUB. (if CPU_OPT is not PWM, then do not use the SATA cable)
> 
> Now wasn't that simple..


Simple, but clarification required as inaccurate in way it 's worded (at least how i read it) and potentially dangerous if interpreted wrongly.

1. There is **no** reason to connect the SATA cable at all unless your amperage draw exceeds the header rating.

6 x FSP140 = 6 x 0.14 = 0.84 amps.... with a 1 amp header rating the SATA power feed adds nothing but cable clutter.

2. The number of fans on the header certainly does matter. While it doesn't matter with the power cable connected, it certainly does matter when it isn't. I have 10 rad fans besides the 5 case fans if i was to connect all the fans to the header w/o the SATA power feed, the header would exceed is amperage rating potentally resulting in a fried header.

3. If you use the CPU OPT header, your fan control will follow the same curve as whatever is connected to CPU header. Not exactly a good idea when:

a) You have water pump on CPU header
b) You have different size or different rpm fans
c) You want the fans connected to each header to follow different curves.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrGrievous*
> 
> Enthoo Pro/Luxe
> 
> So I have a question since my watercooling package will be arriving soon I want to ask those that used the front of the case to mount a 240 rad there is there room to use the bottom port of the alphacool rads as a drain? Is there enough room to hook a slim 90 and a quick disconnect essentially at the bottom of the radiator?
> 
> EDIT: If a drain does fit can I use dual, single, or no rotary fittings on the 90 degree fitting?


That's a 280 and works extremely well





With the fans on the bottom, clearance is a non issue, it drains the entire rad whereas the 7th port on the end doesn't and it fits perfect just behind the side panel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DMatthewStewart*
> 
> My Primo has the female molex for LED strips. Any idea is this is something that Phanteks is going to be releasing? Right now, their LED strips are a 4 pin fan plug. I originally ordered a Luxe, it came in damaged, and after returning it I got the Primo. But, Im wondering if I could just get the LED stripe intended for the Luxe and just mod the plug(s). Either that or wait for the Primo LED strips...if they even have intention of making such a product. Im just confused as to why they made a female molex on the Primo but then released their LED strips as 4 pin fan plugs. I asked the entire forum earlier but I think everyone blew right by my post.


Here's what I used:

LED Strip - 5 Meter Black 3528 SMD White 300 LEDs http://www.amazon.com/LED-Outlets-Meter-Black-Waterproof-Flexible/dp/B00E9N7SX6
Enthoo LED PCB Connector Factop 2Pin Male Female Waterproof JST Wire LED Light Strips Connector Cable Lamp http://www.amazon.com/Factop-Female-Waterproof-Strips-Connector/dp/B00FWJAMBG/ref=sr_1_34?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1383590899&sr

I wired it straight to the spare LED cable that comes with the primo and lights go on / off with the switch


----------



## taem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> FanXpert is far superior to the limited BIOS control... the low rpm limitation is the fault of BIOS limitations not the fans themselves. Please note that you can use FanXpert w/o AiSuite. Instructions are in the Asus forums and as I recall it involves killing the startup of AiSuite but leaving Fan alone.


I know Fan Xpert is superior to Q fan, I'm just using Q fan because I don't want AI Suite. Do you happen to remember where you found those instructions for using Fan Xpert without AI Suite? I can't seem to find them.

Quote:


> 1. There is **no** reason to connect the SATA cable at all unless your amperage draw exceeds the header rating.
> 
> 6 x FSP140 = 6 x 0.14 = 0.84 amps.... with a 1 amp header rating the SATA power feed adds nothing but cable clutter.


Isn't that cutting it close? There are always variances. If the fans need a bit more amperage, especially at startup, and the header supplies a bit less than 1A, you're risking frying that header. That's never happened to me but I don't ever cut it that close. In that scenario I would just use the sata power connector, if the cost is simply cable management of one molex or sata plug. Also the F140SP has a bigger +/- on its rpms than any other fan I own. +/-250rpm is 10%+ of rated fan speed. That might affect amp draw also.


----------



## synphul

Finally got my pc switched over to the enthoo pro. Thing looks great but it's definitely a fingerprint magnet lol. Thankfully a microfiber cloth takes them off fairly easily. Thinking I may have to figure out some sort of cover to go behind the optical drive bays, not too thrilled with the cabling there. Can't do much about it, my psu cables are sleeved with that expandable mesh but not individually and it doesn't extend all the way to the sata power connector. So I see 1980's colored wiring in a few places.

No pics just yet, I had a brainfart. For some reason I thought the case had an extension cable included with it, which it does - for the cpu fan. Not the 8 pin atx/eps cable. Being a slightly older psu, the cable isn't long enough to route through the back and reach so it's strung across the front of the gpu for the time being (fugly, which is why there's no pics lol). So I've got an extension cpu power cable coming. The led lighting went in without too much hassle, had to snip a few places out of the honey comb along the floor by the psu to route the external power cable into the case. Just a tiny bit of light bleed at the case corners around the door panel but not too bad. Compared to my antec sonata ii, this thing has a ton of room. Lots more airflow and breathing room for sure. Amazed how it dwarfed a full size atx motherboard, the sonata barely had enough room from the i/o panel to the drive cages.


----------



## DMatthewStewart

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> Here's what I used:
> 
> LED Strip - 5 Meter Black 3528 SMD White 300 LEDs http://www.amazon.com/LED-Outlets-Meter-Black-Waterproof-Flexible/dp/B00E9N7SX6
> Enthoo LED PCB Connector Factop 2Pin Male Female Waterproof JST Wire LED Light Strips Connector Cable Lamp http://www.amazon.com/Factop-Female-Waterproof-Strips-Connector/dp/B00FWJAMBG/ref=sr_1_34?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1383590899&sr
> 
> I wired it straight to the spare LED cable that comes with the primo and lights go on / off with the switch


Thanks. I grabbed a Bitfenix molex to 3 pin adapter the other day and now I just have to narrow down the LED strips. So thanks for the suggestion. I really dont need too much light in there. So Ive been leaning towards the Icemodz pre-fab strips. But who knows what I will actually end up ordering. Btw, that second link doesnt work.


----------



## pshootr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> FanXpert is far superior to the limited BIOS control... the low rpm limitation is the fault of BIOS limitations not the fans themselves. Please note that you can use FanXpert w/o AiSuite. Instructions are in the Asus forums and as I recall it involves killing the startup of AiSuite but leaving Fan alone.
> Simple, but clarification required as inaccurate in way it 's worded (at least how i read it) and potentially dangerous if interpreted wrongly.
> 
> 1. There is **no** reason to connect the SATA cable at all unless your amperage draw exceeds the header rating.
> 
> 6 x FSP140 = 6 x 0.14 = 0.84 amps.... with a 1 amp header rating the SATA power feed adds nothing but cable clutter.
> 
> 2. The number of fans on the header certainly does matter. While it doesn't matter with the power cable connected, it certainly does matter when it isn't. I have 10 rad fans besides the 5 case fans if i was to connect all the fans to the header w/o the SATA power feed, the header would exceed is amperage rating potentally resulting in a fried header.
> 
> 3. If you use the CPU OPT header, your fan control will follow the same curve as whatever is connected to CPU header. Not exactly a good idea when:
> 
> a) You have water pump on CPU header
> b) You have different size or different rpm fans
> c) You want the fans connected to each header to follow different curves.


Thank you JackNaylorPE. Post has been updated.


----------



## Punter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SLOWION*
> 
> Got a chance to play with the Phanteks Enthoo Evolv ITX case.
> 
> And of course a quick review...


I agree with your comments regarding the choice in materials, I would probably snap it up right away if it were available in the grey aluminium.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> That's a 280 and works extremely well
> With the fans on the bottom, clearance is a non issue, it drains the entire rad whereas the 7th port on the end doesn't and it fits perfect just behind the side panel


Good info thanks. Whats the piece on the end exactly? Don't recognize.


----------



## MrGrievous

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> Good info thanks. Whats the piece on the end exactly? Don't recognize.


It's a quick disconnect with a extender and a 90 degree rotary all from bitspower probably.


----------



## SLOWION

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Punter*
> 
> I agree with your comments regarding the choice in materials, I would probably snap it up right away if it were available in the grey aluminium.


Yeah that would be nice. Hopefully they go in the right direction with the ATX version


----------



## JaredLaskey82

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> That's a 280 and works extremely well
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the fans on the bottom, clearance is a non issue, it drains the entire rad whereas the 7th port on the end doesn't and it fits perfect just behind the side panel
> Here's what I used:
> 
> LED Strip - 5 Meter Black 3528 SMD White 300 LEDs http://www.amazon.com/LED-Outlets-Meter-Black-Waterproof-Flexible/dp/B00E9N7SX6
> Enthoo LED PCB Connector Factop 2Pin Male Female Waterproof JST Wire LED Light Strips Connector Cable Lamp http://www.amazon.com/Factop-Female-Waterproof-Strips-Connector/dp/B00FWJAMBG/ref=sr_1_34?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1383590899&sr
> 
> I wired it straight to the spare LED cable that comes with the primo and lights go on / off with the switch


I have mine coming out ththe back of the 360 monsta.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

I have mine coming off the bottom-facing ports of a 360 Monsta somewhat similar to how Jack has his, except mine points towards the right-side panel coming out right in the space between the psu shroud/panel and the HDD cages in their most-forward position.


----------



## Winthorpe

Quick question about the Enthoo Luxe:

I've picked up a cheap Corsair H105 cooler (I lack the knowledge/ability/funds to go for a full custom loop), where should I mount it? My initial thought was to mount it at the top of the case, but if I did that should I use it as an exhaust? My alternative plan would be to mount it at the bottom of the case, which would seem logical (drawing cold air in at the bottom).

I've not changed the stock fan setup but want to retain positive air pressure (more intakes than exhausts, right?) so will add extra fans if necessary.

Thanks in advance for any advice.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

AIOs like the Corsair Hydro series often have issues with pump noise caused by air bubbles whenever the pump becomes the highest point in the closed loop.

You can always turn the fans around in push or pull, in either direction of airflow that you want as intake or exhaust, regardless of where you mount the rad/fan assembly.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Winthorpe*
> 
> Quick question about the Enthoo Luxe:
> 
> I've picked up a cheap Corsair H105 cooler (I lack the knowledge/ability/funds to go for a full custom loop), where should I mount it?


My initial reaction is "in a return box". The Swiftech H220-X and H240-X can bridge the gap between CLC and custom loop in a pre-assembled form, and the H240-X looks like it was made to be in a Luxe - 




Short of that, the Luxe easily fits the NZXT Kraken X-61 and Tt Water 3.0 Ultimate, both of which offer better performance and significantly lower noise.

With the Luxe as accommodating as it is for larger radiators, you should take advantage rather than settle for louder and lower performance for comparable cost.


----------



## Winthorpe

Thanks for the advice, Unicr0nhunter and ciarlatano.

I got a deal on the H105 (just over £50) which is a lot less than what I'd be paying for a Kraken X-61 (£120) or the Tt Water 3.0 (£115). So I'm willing to test it and see how it performs. If it's horrendous, it'll go on ebay to recoup cash and put towards something else. The Switfech isn't financially viable for me (can't see a UK listing other than one for £200 on Amazon which is way outside of budget).

I won't have funds for further upgrades until later in the year so this is a calculated gamble.

Thanks again.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Winthorpe*
> 
> Thanks for the advice, Unicr0nhunter and ciarlatano.
> 
> I got a deal on the H105 (just over £50) which is a lot less than what I'd be paying for a Kraken X-61 (£120) or the Tt Water 3.0 (£115). So I'm willing to test it and see how it performs. If it's horrendous, it'll go on ebay to recoup cash and put towards something else. The Switfech isn't financially viable for me (can't see a UK listing other than one for £200 on Amazon which is way outside of budget).
> 
> I won't have funds for further upgrades until later in the year so this is a calculated gamble.
> 
> Thanks again.


Impossible to argue with that pricing. Good deal.


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Winthorpe*
> 
> Thanks for the advice, Unicr0nhunter and ciarlatano.
> 
> I got a deal on the H105 (just over £50) which is a lot less than what I'd be paying for a Kraken X-61 (£120) or the Tt Water 3.0 (£115). So I'm willing to test it and see how it performs. If it's horrendous, it'll go on ebay to recoup cash and put towards something else. The Switfech isn't financially viable for me (can't see a UK listing other than one for £200 on Amazon which is way outside of budget).
> 
> I won't have funds for further upgrades until later in the year so this is a calculated gamble.
> 
> Thanks again.


The H105 is among the best when we are talking about CLC units, it's decently thick and the block is fairly good. If I would buy another CLC unit though then that would be a Farctal design Kelvin. They are just so good, and they can be expanded if needed (closed from factory, but can be opened).Their also not that badly priced.

But for 50GBP, I doubt you can find anything better unless it's a super good deal on an old open loop.


----------



## Faster_is_better

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wjturner78*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *xxdarkreap3rxx*
> 
> Where do you get them? I'm tired of sounding like a constipated arnold schwarzenegger every time I move my PC.
> 
> 
> 
> I know your rig is heavy like mine. I don't even try to lift it right now I have it on a bench that I can get to all 4 sides and the bottom while I'm building it but once it's done Doyles caster base is a definite must have trying to plug a cable in the back without it is a pain in the a$$ I'd much rather roll it
Click to expand...

Agreed about the heft on the Primo, it's heavy even when it's empty. Throw in some components and it becomes "awkward" to move by hand, throw in some water cooling and it becomes "hand truck only" I think...

Dolley would work if you don't move it around to much also









I wish they would have done something different with the bottom of the Primo, it feels like I am going to break off all that plastic at the bottom where the fan filters are, just by holding it there (while moving it). Of course if it was all steel it would just be heavier though.. lol


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Yeah mobility on any full size tower is a must imho.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Cool, since we're all sharing picks of our case mobility projects, here's my lil rolling drawer cabinet for my Enthoo Primo. I'd made a larger one just like it a year or so ago for my Cosmos II, and posted pictures of it and this one some umpteen pages back when it was still in the building-phase ...


----------



## wjturner78

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Yeah mobility on any full size tower is a must imho.


very nice! I ran across images of this on Google when I was looking for a castor base and didn't put it together that this was yours!


----------



## wjturner78

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Faster_is_better*
> 
> Agreed about the heft on the Primo, it's heavy even when it's empty. Throw in some components and it becomes "awkward" to move by hand, throw in some water cooling and it becomes "hand truck only" I think...
> 
> Dolley would work if you don't move it around to much also
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I wish they would have done something different with the bottom of the Primo, it feels like I am going to break off all that plastic at the bottom where the fan filters are, just by holding it there (while moving it). Of course if it was all steel it would just be heavier though.. lol


I agree if you pick it up and it's stuffed with components there is a possibility of catastrophic failure.... I like the channel under there though that's where I routed my drain line it goes under the case into that plastic trim and up to the front. I'm hoping with Doyle caster base it will "distribute" some of the weight to lessen this scenario


----------



## dallas1990

I feel like mine weights about 100 pounds but that's by feel. My console friends are like why you out of breath all you did was pick it up?


----------



## MrPatate

I've finally had a couple of hours to do my Enthoo Luxe dolly. At first I just wanted to put something under it to remove the direct contact with the dust from the carpet, after building my computer I realize that wheels would be a good addition to (the rubber feet really grip!).

The top is made of Canadian Maple (free leftover at a flooring place, they were gonna throw it out).
I still have to find a good color match to hide the nail holes on the trim around it.


Blurry pictures of the wheels, glad I could find those small 1'' wheels instead of the 1.5''-2'' there's everywhere.


And a bad pictures with the case on it, the room is badly lit + dust and fingerprint makes an aweful picture. :S


----------



## Joey2Sites

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Winthorpe*
> 
> Thanks for the advice, Unicr0nhunter and ciarlatano.
> 
> I got a deal on the H105 (just over £50) which is a lot less than what I'd be paying for a Kraken X-61 (£120) or the Tt Water 3.0 (£115). So I'm willing to test it and see how it performs. If it's horrendous, it'll go on ebay to recoup cash and put towards something else. The Switfech isn't financially viable for me (can't see a UK listing other than one for £200 on Amazon which is way outside of budget).
> 
> I won't have funds for further upgrades until later in the year so this is a calculated gamble.
> 
> Thanks again.


I really hate when someone asks a question, and says "this is my option, this is my budget" and people tell them to buy something more expensive. Well, you could just buy this blah blah.

The h105 is a dual rad right? Put it in the ceiling definitely. Switch the fans to INTAKES. So you'll have the front 200mm intake, and two 120mm intakes in the ceiling. And for exhaust you just have the 140mm included phanteks fan in the rear of the case. This is fine for positive air pressure. The back of the case has ventilation without filters but that's fine because it will exhaust all the dust, and the intake fans all have air filters to prevent dust.

So.. the ceiling. definitely.


----------



## Joey2Sites

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> The H105 is among the best when we are talking about CLC units, it's decently thick and the block is fairly good. If I would buy another CLC unit though then that would be a Farctal design Kelvin. They are just so good, and they can be expanded if needed (closed from factory, but can be opened).Their also not that badly priced.
> 
> But for 50GBP, I doubt you can find anything better unless it's a super good deal on an old open loop.


I had no idea these fractal AIO coolers existed. G1/4 fittings? alphacool rads? WHAT!? I hear they're not in the US though.. bummer.


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Joey2Sites*
> 
> I had no idea these fractal AIO coolers existed. G1/4 fittings? alphacool rads? WHAT!? I hear they're not in the US though.. bummer.


Really? I thought they where available to everyone now. either way they seem to be fairly reasonable priced as well, here in Norway a Corsair H100i (same as H105 in pricing) would cost me 1150NOK while the 240mm Fractal Design Kepler would cost me 1200NOK in the same store. While the single 120mm Kepler is at 1050NOK and the triple at 1350NOK. This is why I mentioned them, they seem to be fairly well priced for what they are. Hopefully they will come to the states soon, and I do really hope the pricing doesn't become crazy like some products does (Noctua fans for one, I pay the same for them as Corsair fans).


----------



## Winthorpe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Joey2Sites*
> 
> The h105 is a dual rad right? Put it in the ceiling definitely. Switch the fans to INTAKES. So you'll have the front 200mm intake, and two 120mm intakes in the ceiling. And for exhaust you just have the 140mm included phanteks fan in the rear of the case. This is fine for positive air pressure. The back of the case has ventilation without filters but that's fine because it will exhaust all the dust, and the intake fans all have air filters to prevent dust.
> 
> So.. the ceiling. definitely.


Thankyou! Think you've just saved me a lot of hassle. Had settled on a ceiling mount but was worried about using it as an exhaust, this clarifies things massively.

Re: Fractal Design Kelvins - they're going for £90 in the UK for the S24 (240 rad) which is comparable to others in the range, but the S36 was available on ebuyer recently for £105. Haven't seen widespread availability of it yet though.


----------



## Joey2Sites

I hate noctua fans. For one.. They're ugly, for two the new phanteks mp fans are actually quieter and perform just as good on rads. Corsair look nice too, and I like noise blockers but I really love the new phanteks mp fans.


----------



## Joey2Sites

Linus giving away an enthoo primo with an asus x99 delux, TWO GTX 980s, i7 5960x, hardline water cooling, ek blocks, 32gigs dominator platinum memory.

Holy crap!

Oh and he's giving away his personal rig.. Tj07 ?


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Joey2Sites*
> 
> Linus giving away an enthoo primo with an asus x99 delux, TWO GTX 980s, i7 5960x, hardline water cooling, ek blocks, 32gigs dominator platinum memory.
> 
> Holy crap!
> 
> Oh and he's giving away his personal rig.. Tj07 ?


so he's decided to one up HWC giveaway then.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Joey2Sites Ive held my tongue for weeks now but you need to stop double and triple-posting. If you have something else to say then edit and add to your last one instead, please, or just wait a few mins for someone else to post. The thread is long enough as it is plus it's better forum etiquette, in general.

Also, I am putting this in public because you are not the only one who does it.


----------



## synphul

Those dolly's you guys made are nice, great idea and both came out really slick. Functional and without the 'diy' look.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Joey2Sites*
> 
> I hate noctua fans. For one.. They're ugly, for two the new phanteks mp fans are actually quieter and perform just as good on rads. Corsair look nice too, and I like noise blockers but I really love the new phanteks mp fans.


I can't speak for radiator performance but the newer noctua redux look pretty nice actually in the two tone light/dark grey color scheme. The only phanteks fan in 140 I have to compare to is the 140sp that came with the enthoo pro. The 1500rpm pwm redux 140's are only slightly louder than the f140sp but are also around 300rpm faster and feel like they push more air. The additional sound I hear is a 'whooshing', not fan noise itself. Went with the noctuas for top as exhaust and they don't rattle/vibrate like the f140sp does when mounted upside down (blade hanging). The vibration doesn't exist when the phanteks fan is mounted vertically and is probably due to the sleeve bearing. I realize it's not the mp edition but probably close enough since they're the same size and use the same sleeved ufb bearing. Just doesn't seem to play nice in all orientations.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Yeah I never understood the appeal of those tan and maroon Noctuas. Starting with the design team who chose those colors.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> Yeah I never understood the appeal of those tan and maroon Noctuas. Starting with the design team who chose those colors.


I know that Noctua has stated that there are color limitations due to the composition of the material used. I know that they have stated that black was impossible due to this, but I have to think there just had to be some more palatable colors to choose from. Supposedly it took several years to get the gray to the point they wanted it. They have announced and withdrawn black several times.


----------



## synphul

Initially I was worried about giving up the rubber isolators on the corners going with the redux fans and in the past I've always used rubber fan mounts. This is the first time in a long time I've had fans hard mounted to a case with screws (was worried the rubber mounts I had might slip through the mounting slots). No vibrations though from either the phanteks or the noctuas. The grey color scheme looks much better in person than the photos. Colors are personal taste but they're really subdued especially through the tinted enthoo window even with bright white leds.


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> I know that Noctua has stated that there are color limitations due to the composition of the material used. I know that they have stated that black was impossible due to this, but I have to think there just had to be some more palatable colors to choose from. Supposedly it took several years to get the gray to the point they wanted it. They have announced and withdrawn black several times.


Well, then how do you (or rather they) explain the Industry oriented fans:


But seriously though only reason I mentioned Noctua was because I bought mine before there was some real alternatives. Now that I have the Enthoo Primo and a butload of PH-F140SP fans I can test them against my NF A14 fans, and I don't doubt that they will perform almost identical. When it comes to 14cm fans though SilentPCreview still swears to the NF-P14 as a radiator fan when it comes to performance/noise, so the NF-P14 redux should be a fairly good buy.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> Well, then how do you (or rather they) explain the Industry oriented fans:
> 
> 
> But seriously though only reason I mentioned Noctua was because I bought mine before there was some real alternatives. Now that I have the Enthoo Primo and a butload of PH-F140SP fans I can test them against my NF A14 fans, and I don't doubt that they will perform almost identical. When it comes to 14cm fans though SilentPCreview still swears to the NF-P14 as a radiator fan when it comes to performance/noise, so the NF-P14 redux should be a fairly good buy.


I was actually going to mention the PPC line - you notice that they are actually much louder than their brown counterparts at like speeds. Apparently this is part of the issue and why the black fans were done completely differently.

Only going by what has been said - don't shoot the messenger.









I was using the 140SP on my 280mm radiator, and swapped out to the PPC-2000. I found no measurable performance difference to 1200rpm, naturally the PPCs were able to keep going from there. However, the PPCs have a much higher startup speed so I can't replicate the quiet I was getting with the SP. I am likely switching back.


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> I was actually going to mention the PPC line - you notice that they are actually much louder than their brown counterparts at like speeds. Apparently this is part of the issue and why the black fans were done completely differently.
> 
> Only going by what has been said - don't shoot the messenger.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was using the 140SP on my 280mm radiator, and swapped out to the PPC-2000. I found no measurable performance difference to 1200rpm, naturally the PPCs were able to keep going from there. However, the PPCs have a much higher startup speed so I can't replicate the quiet I was getting with the SP. I am likely switching back.


I'm not blaiming you (hence why I added the "or rather they" bit)







It should be interesting to see if I will actually see any difference between them, other than me going for a white, black and silver theme for my build I could just as easily run the Noctuas. In fact I might end up switching my Eloops for some NF-F12s at one point as I do have a theme in mind for them (adding a bit of wallnutt wood to the mix instead of white, then doing acrylic covers for the fans where you only see the brown blades through the fan grill).


----------



## MrGrievous

Maybe some of you kind fils can help me come up with a unique name for my build? I have a build log that's semi complete but the color scheme is white with red accents, the rig is getting a big overhaul right now.


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrGrievous*
> 
> Maybe some of you kind fils can help me come up with a unique name for my build? I have a build log that's semi complete but the color scheme is white with red accents, the rig is getting a big overhaul right now.


hmm, how about "Dead Snow"?


just love that movie


----------



## bote110

I have just got my "Phanteks Enthoo Pro Series" case and I like it!! I'm adding a
Asus Sabartooth R2.0
EVGA Super Nova 850w PSU
MSI R9 280x GPU
G.Skills Sniper 1866 16GB {x2 8GB}
SATA III 6GB 1 TB Drive
Cool Master 212 EVO cpu cooler
What I like the most beside the with is the cable management ,plenty of space and fans.
I do need help is what is the best fans to get for the top part of the case I was thinking x3 140's but what kind?


----------



## EdTheHead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bote110*
> 
> I have just got my "Phanteks Enthoo Pro Series" case and I like it!! I'm adding a
> Asus Sabartooth R2.0
> EVGA Super Nova 850w PSU
> MSI R9 280x GPU
> G.Skills Sniper 1866 16GB {x2 8GB}
> SATA III 6GB 1 TB Drive
> Cool Master 212 EVO cpu cooler
> What I like the most beside the with is the cable management ,plenty of space and fans.
> I do need help is what is the best fans to get for the top part of the case I was thinking x3 140's but what kind?


I chose to go with the phanteks 140mm fans for the pro, to stay in line with the 140SP that comes with it. The pwm version of the 140mm fans come with rubber pads attached, as well as rubber screws, an extension, a 4to3pin adapter, a voltage reducing adapter.

Phanteks fans are great quality, imo. Comparing this to fans I've gone through like noctua, nidec, san ace, and thermalright.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EdTheHead*
> 
> I chose to go with the phanteks 140mm fans for the pro, to stay in line with the 140SP that comes with it. The pwm version of the 140mm fans come with rubber pads attached, as well as rubber screws, an extension, a 4to3pin adapter, a voltage reducing adapter.
> 
> Phanteks fans are great quality, imo. Comparing this to fans I've gone through like noctua, nidec, san ace, and thermalright.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bote110*
> 
> I have just got my "Phanteks Enthoo Pro Series" case and I like it!! I'm adding a
> Asus Sabartooth R2.0
> EVGA Super Nova 850w PSU
> MSI R9 280x GPU
> G.Skills Sniper 1866 16GB {x2 8GB}
> SATA III 6GB 1 TB Drive
> Cool Master 212 EVO cpu cooler
> What I like the most beside the with is the cable management ,plenty of space and fans.
> I do need help is what is the best fans to get for the top part of the case I was thinking x3 140's but what kind?


After trying numerous combinations in the Luxe, I would up getting the best results with two 140SP replacing the 200mm in the front, and moving the 200mm to the top exhaust. Adding a 120mm to the rear of the HDD cage is also a huge help.


----------



## MrGrievous

Double post sorry


----------



## MrGrievous

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> hmm, how about "Dead Snow"?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> just love that movie


Hmm so i just came up with:
Bloody Snow
White Blood
Crimsion Division


----------



## synphul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bote110*
> 
> I have just got my "Phanteks Enthoo Pro Series" case and I like it!!
> I do need help is what is the best fans to get for the top part of the case I was thinking x3 140's but what kind?


Unless you're trying to fill out the top of the pro, 3 140's may be overkill. I put 2 140's in the top of mine for top exhaust and it's more than plenty, fills up the length of the case the main window does. The third would basically be up front occupying the 5.25 bay area, not sure how much heat is an issue there. Maybe I got a dud f140sp with mine but it may be worthwhile waiting until you get your case and try out the 140 rear exhaust that comes with it turned horizontal as an exhaust fan. Mine had a pretty severe vibration in that orientation that went away immediately with the fan mounted horizontal as rear exhaust. I started to buy top fans and was thinking I'd keep with the theme by using the f140sp's for the top as well but once I tried the one that came with the case I ended up ordering a couple noctua redux instead.

I was concerned about the fans not 'matching' but it's a non issue. My case is sitting on my desk and my point of view is looking slightly upward into the window of the case (it's turned sideways). Because of the fans mounting up above the case door, only the back 1/2-1/3 of the fans is even slightly visible and there's not much difference in color of the redux vs the phanteks fan through the tinted window. The rear fan is a bit more visible but my leds are shining on it from the top of the case and where I mounted them they're not shining directly on the top fans so the top 140's are shadowed.

Here's a quick and dirty pic of it, sorry for the quality (took it with my webcam since it was handy). The colors don't come out as true to life, the webcam over exaggerates the brightness of the rear fan. In reality it's much closer to a soft light grey because of the window tint even though the blades are pure white.


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrGrievous*
> 
> Hmm so i just came up with:
> Bloody Snow
> White Blood
> Crimsion Division


How about "Red Thread", or do and Assassins Creed inspired name (red and white anyone) and call it "Everything is permited" or "Nothing is true". Get creative, really tehre is tons of red and white stuff out there, you could even call it "Geisha" if that is something that would fit.

Edit: Or sticking with the snow theme and calling it "don't eat red snow"...


----------



## synphul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrGrievous*
> 
> Maybe some of you kind fils can help me come up with a unique name for my build? I have a build log that's semi complete but the color scheme is white with red accents, the rig is getting a big overhaul right now.


If it's purely white and red maybe something like Arctic Rojo? Sorry I'm not that creative, that's all I could come up with.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

"cool runnings" j/k love that movie though ;0


----------



## Bigjk47

My main rig Project Exodus temporary air cooling is completed, just need a few blocks to complete water, kinda waiting on new gm200 ti cards to drop.


----------



## synphul

Nice looking setup Bigjk47


----------



## pshootr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bigjk47*
> 
> My main rig Project Exodus temporary air cooling is completed, just need a few blocks to complete water, kinda waiting on new gm200 ti cards to drop.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *synphul*
> 
> Nice looking setup Bigjk47


Indeed it looks pretty slick (I like red), nice photo too.


----------



## Ironsmack

Hey guys,

I have an unusual question, can someone verify me if they could fit the lower HD cage on the 5 1/4 bay with a P/P UT60?

Or at least measure the lower HD cage height.

I want to know if I have enough space to fit the cage with P/P UT60 on top.

Thanks!


----------



## taem

Anyone know the minimum start voltage of the stock F140SP fans?


----------



## Bigjk47

Thanks guys! Hopefully i can post updated build photos soon. Must say I have a decent OC with the way its setup now .
(Pic was taken with iPhone6)


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ironsmack*
> 
> Hey guys,
> 
> I have an unusual question, can someone verify me if they could fit the lower HD cage on the 5 1/4 bay with a P/P UT60?
> 
> Or at least measure the lower HD cage height.
> 
> I want to know if I have enough space to fit the cage with P/P UT60 on top.
> 
> Thanks!


I assume you mean the enthoo primo? and if so, will you be running push/pull with all the fans inside the case or with one llayer outside under the top shroud?


----------



## emsj86

Anyone know if it's possible to have a 240 on the bottom and front of the case with one set of fans. Seems a tight fit. I want to add another 240 to the front. But looks as f I might need tk mod andove it up alittle to fit.


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Anyone know if it's possible to have a 240 on the bottom and front of the case with one set of fans. Seems a tight fit. I want to add another 240 to the front. But looks as f I might need tk mod andove it up alittle to fit.


if it's the Enthoo Primo then you can mount up to two 240mm rads in the front at the same time, but you need to be careful about the thickness of them. the front rad I think can only be something like 30mm thick, while the side mounted rad will leave you a bit more playroom. Keep in mind though that the thicker you go on it the less air will escape from the front rad, so I would do nothing more than 45mm thickness on it. Now I think you can fit something under them as well but I am unsure about that.


----------



## emsj86

Sorry must if forgot I'm asking for the pro or luxe (same chasis) if it can fit a 240 bottom and front


----------



## bote110

Ok a little help here the "PWM Hub" So I connect this to the first CPU_Fan 4 pin on the motherboard now do I also connect the SATA Power cable also or is that for the 3 pin Case_Fan connection ? I think the Sabartooth mother board has x2 CPU_Fans 4 pin connection so I plan on using CPU_Fan 1. for the PWM Hub and CPU_Fan 2. I'm going to use a 4 pin"Y" split for my CPU Cooler do you think that will work?


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bote110*
> 
> Ok a little help here the "PWM Hub" So I connect this to the first CPU_Fan 4 pin on the motherboard now do I also connect the SATA Power cable also or is that for the 3 pin Case_Fan connection ? I think the Sabartooth mother board has x2 CPU_Fans 4 pin connection so I plan on using CPU_Fan 1. for the PWM Hub and CPU_Fan 2. I'm going to use a 4 pin"Y" split for my CPU Cooler do you think that will work?


The CPU and CPU_OPT on your board are both PWM and work in tandem. Do not be fooled by ASUS stating that the chassis fan headers can be PWM, they do not generate an actual PWM signal for control and will not work with the Hub. *Only* the two CPU headers will control the fan hub.

So, yes, the Hub will go to either of the CPU fan headers with the SATA plugged in for power if you are running more than two fans off the Hub. You will likely need to run fan tuning in Thermal Radar to get it working properly.

The little hiccup here is that both CPU headers share the same fan curve, which may or may not work with your CPU cooler. You may be best off using a chassis fan header for your CPU cooler fans, then assigning that header to respond only to CPU temps in Thermal Radar and set the curves accordingly. This will give you great flexibility and allow for the best noise/performance tweaking of your build.


----------



## taem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> The CPU and CPU_OPT on your board are both PWM and work in tandem. Do not be fooled by ASUS stating that the chassis fan headers can be PWM, they do not generate an actual PWM signal for control and will not work with the Hub. *Only* the two CPU headers will control the fan hub.


On Asus z97 boards, at least with the rog and sabertooth boards as well as the 2011, all fan headers including chassis are true pwm. They can also do dc. You choose in bios. I run 2 phanteks hubs on the chassis headers of my 7 gene, and a stellar advantage here is that you can set the curve based in a 2 pin thermal sensor to which you can connect a coolant temp probe. The cpu headers ate locked to cpu temp.

One caveat. Fan Xpert can deal with the Phanteks hubs fine as per Jacknaylor but q fan in uefi has problems with the hub.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *taem*
> 
> On Asus z97 boards, at least with the rog and sabertooth boards as well as the 2011, all fan headers including chassis are true pwm. They can also do dc. You choose in bios. I run 2 phanteks hubs on the chassis headers of my 7 gene, and a stellar advantage here is that you can set the curve based in a 2 pin thermal sensor to which you can connect a coolant temp probe. The cpu headers ate locked to cpu temp.
> 
> One caveat. Fan Xpert can deal with the Phanteks hubs fine as per Jacknaylor but q fan in uefi has problems with the hub.


The board in question is not a Z97. The Z77, Z87 and 990FX boards only have PWM signals from the CPU headers, and they are tied together. Drove me a little nuts when I had my Z87 Sabertooth, actually requested and RMA for it thinking something was wrong with the board, and ASUS technical was insistent that the headers were PWM....obviously, that was not the case.


----------



## Ironsmack

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> I assume you mean the enthoo primo? and if so, will you be running push/pull with all the fans inside the case or with one llayer outside under the top shroud?


Sorry, forgot to say the Enthoo Primo.

And yes, one set of fans under the top shroud and the rad+set of fans inside the case. Both rads i'll be using is 480 UT60.


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ironsmack*
> 
> Sorry, forgot to say the Enthoo Primo.
> 
> And yes, one set of fans under the top shroud and the rad+set of fans inside the case. Both rads i'll be using is 480 UT60.


I'll check for you, but give me a day or so to do it.


----------



## maskymus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ironsmack*
> 
> Sorry, forgot to say the Enthoo Primo.
> 
> And yes, one set of fans under the top shroud and the rad+set of fans inside the case. Both rads i'll be using is 480 UT60.


Yes, you can fit the other HDD cage inside 5.25 bays.
Here are photos with UT60 push/pull:


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Photo with HDD cage with bottom mount:

Photo with HDD cage on its side:


----------



## emsj86

There our adapters to fit ssd and hdd in optical bays I have two works perfect and our hidden very well


----------



## SoulFallen

Got mine all built!


----------



## MrGrievous

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Sorry must if forgot I'm asking for the pro or luxe (same chasis) if it can fit a 240 bottom and front


I can can say for sure that a 240 on the bottom and front will require some modding to the front rad to move that up higher plus you will more than likely have to remove the bottom of the optical drive cage as well like i did in order to move the rad up further. But the case still needs one part of the drive cage for structural integrity reasons. Plus a rad right next to the psu will be a tight fit on the cables so you will want to hook those up first before plopping that bottom rad in.





'


----------



## Ironsmack

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> I'll check for you, but give me a day or so to do it.


Thank you, much appreciated









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *maskymus*
> 
> Yes, you can fit the other HDD cage inside 5.25 bays.
> Here are photos with UT60 push/pull:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Photo with HDD cage with bottom mount:
> 
> Photo with HDD cage on its side:


Thank you sir!







Just what i needed to see.

Edit: finally saw the Primo case


----------



## Faster_is_better

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ironsmack*
> 
> Hey guys,
> 
> I have an unusual question, can someone verify me if they could fit the lower HD cage on the 5 1/4 bay with a P/P UT60?
> 
> Or at least measure the lower HD cage height.
> 
> I want to know if I have enough space to fit the cage with P/P UT60 on top.
> 
> Thanks!


I'm pretty sure there is room in the bottom also, even with 1 hdd cage installed. I stacked 3x 38mm fans in the bottom just to test some clearance and there was still room above them before they would hit the hdd cage.


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrGrievous*
> 
> I can can say for sure that a 240 on the bottom and front will require some modding to the front rad to move that up higher plus you will more than likely have to remove the bottom of the optical drive cage as well like i did in order to move the rad up further. But the case still needs one part of the drive cage for structural integrity reasons. Plus a rad right next to the psu will be a tight fit on the cables so you will want to hook those up first before plopping that bottom rad in.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> '


Thanks yea I have a bottom rad allready a swiftech 240 and with my 850w seasonic there is still room to spare. I know some psu our right though. Hmm if I have to mod the front I may just do my orginal plan to move my psu to optical bays than cut the bottom and instal a large 420 or 360 rad and use the acrylic I have to cover up the old psu open area


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Thanks yea I have a bottom rad allready a swiftech 240 and with my 850w seasonic there is still room to spare. I know some psu our right though. Hmm if I have to mod the front I may just do my orginal plan to move my psu to optical bays than cut the bottom and instal a large 420 or 360 rad and use the acrylic I have to cover up the old psu open area


You could probably fit a single 200mm rad there though, or something like that.


----------



## taem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> The board in question is not a Z97. The Z77, Z87 and 990FX boards only have PWM signals from the CPU headers, and they are tied together. Drove me a little nuts when I had my Z87 Sabertooth, actually requested and RMA for it thinking something was wrong with the board, and ASUS technical was insistent that the headers were PWM....obviously, that was not the case.


Yeah I was just saying this issue doesn't apply to the current Gen of Asus boards. Thought I'd mention it since true pwm headers are highly relevant to these cases since they come with the hubs.

I encountered this issue when I first started using pwm fans, I ordered my pwn fans with a Z87 Pro which said it had 4 pin fan headers, which it did, but they were 4 pin dc headers...


----------



## synphul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SoulFallen*
> 
> Got mine all built!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ]


Looks good, especially like the thermal readout in the smaller window. Noticed you used cf along some of the interior as well, I used it on the raised portion similar to yours with the phanteks plate over it and covered the psu cover and ugly side of my gpu with it. Adds some nice depth through the tinted window with lighting, I'm glad I used it. DId you use dinoc or 3m 1080 or? Took a chance not having seen it before and went with simcarbon 3d and it came out pretty decent.


----------



## bote110

I have the Enthoo Pro Series with the 990x Sabartooth R2.0 {for AMD} and was setting up a push pull config on my cpu with the Cool Master 212 EVO witch I was going to connect with a "Y" pwm split cable to CPU_Fan number 2 and the PWM Hub on CPU_Fan number 1. , Just wanted to make sure this will work? and if the SATA Power cable needed to connected with the Hub?


----------



## MrGrievous

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> How about "Red Thread", or do and Assassins Creed inspired name (red and white anyone) and call it "Everything is permited" or "Nothing is true". Get creative, really tehre is tons of red and white stuff out there, you could even call it "Geisha" if that is something that would fit.
> 
> Edit: Or sticking with the snow theme and calling it "don't eat red snow"...


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *synphul*
> 
> If it's purely white and red maybe something like Arctic Rojo? Sorry I'm not that creative, that's all I could come up with.


Thanks everyone for chipping in on this! Really appreciate! I will ponder some more on this and create a name that matches the build well as the name will be put on a cover plate and be incorporated in the buid! Gave all three who chiped in rep +1!
Edit: so I was just brainstorming and came up with Blood Guradian as a kind of spin off from sneffs bloody angle build.


----------



## Joey2Sites

Just came across this beauty..


----------



## pshootr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bote110*
> 
> I have the Enthoo Pro Series with the 990x Sabartooth R2.0 {for AMD} and was setting up a push pull config on my cpu with the Cool Master 212 EVO witch I was going to connect with a "Y" pwm split cable to CPU_Fan number 2 and the PWM Hub on CPU_Fan number 1. , Just wanted to make sure this will work? and if the SATA Power cable needed to connected with the Hub?


Yes that should work fine. And yes you should be able to use the SATA power without an issue. Your CPU_2 header will follow the same fan profile as CPU_1 (from bios).


----------



## Ironsmack

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Faster_is_better*
> 
> I'm pretty sure there is room in the bottom also, even with 1 hdd cage installed. I stacked 3x 38mm fans in the bottom just to test some clearance and there was still room above them before they would hit the hdd cage.


Well, I require at least 6 HD's so i'd rather not buy a 5.25 adapter if I can use the HD cage.


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Joey2Sites*
> 
> Just came across this beauty..
> 
> .


I like the build and I don't like it. I love how he did something different. Not my taste but he or she did it well very well. Gives me an idea oh running some two lines out and back in where he has the reservior using pass throughs. Mainly just for looks.


----------



## SoulFallen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *synphul*
> 
> Looks good, especially like the thermal readout in the smaller window. Noticed you used cf along some of the interior as well, I used it on the raised portion similar to yours with the phanteks plate over it and covered the psu cover and ugly side of my gpu with it. Adds some nice depth through the tinted window with lighting, I'm glad I used it. DId you use dinoc or 3m 1080 or? Took a chance not having seen it before and went with simcarbon 3d and it came out pretty decent.


it's some generic stuff no idea where from but works like a charm with a blow dryer


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bote110*
> 
> I have the Enthoo Pro Series with the 990x Sabartooth R2.0 {for AMD} and was setting up a push pull config on my cpu with the Cool Master 212 EVO witch I was going to connect with a "Y" pwm split cable to CPU_Fan number 2 and the PWM Hub on CPU_Fan number 1. , Just wanted to make sure this will work? and if the SATA Power cable needed to connected with the Hub?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> The CPU and CPU_OPT on your board are both PWM and work in tandem. Do not be fooled by ASUS stating that the chassis fan headers can be PWM, they do not generate an actual PWM signal for control and will not work with the Hub. *Only* the two CPU headers will control the fan hub.
> 
> So, yes, the Hub will go to either of the CPU fan headers with the SATA plugged in for power if you are running more than two fans off the Hub. You will likely need to run fan tuning in Thermal Radar to get it working properly.
> 
> The little hiccup here is that both CPU headers share the same fan curve, which may or may not work with your CPU cooler. You may be best off using a chassis fan header for your CPU cooler fans, then assigning that header to respond only to CPU temps in Thermal Radar and set the curves accordingly. This will give you great flexibility and allow for the best noise/performance tweaking of your build.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bote110*
> 
> I have the Enthoo Pro Series with the 990x Sabartooth R2.0 {for AMD} and was setting up a push pull config on my cpu with the Cool Master 212 EVO witch I was going to connect with a "Y" pwm split cable to CPU_Fan number 2 and the PWM Hub on CPU_Fan number 1. , Just wanted to make sure this will work? and if the SATA Power cable needed to connected with the Hub?


----------



## steeludder

Guys, sorry if it has been covered or solved before, but this thread is 900 pages long, I spend 30 minutes looking through it but so far haven't found an answer to my questions...

I have an Asus X99-Deluxe board and I connect my 8 case+rad fans to CPU_FAN using a Phanteks PWM fan hub. The WC pump is connected directly to PSU as well as CHA_FAN3 for control.

Here's the issue though: whenever I warm reboot my computer, BIOS will get stuck showing the dreaded CPU fan error message.
It's annoying enough to have to go into BIOS and exit without saving every time it happens, but in addition to that, it causes the ASUS fan Xpert settings to be reset every time, and that drives me nuts! Gotta go through the whole auto-tuning again as any profile I'd saved previously would have disappeared in this obnoxious process.

Note that whenever I shut down the computer and press the button to start it, I do not get the CPU fan error. This only happens if I choose "restart computer" in Windows (or if it crashes for whatever reason).

Asus says "it's the fan hub's fault".

So... if it actually is the fan hub's fault, what can I do about it? I use a combination of Corsair AF140, SP140 and SP120 fans, all connected to the hub.

Ideally I would want all the fans controlled together, as I don't see any real point in controlling them separately, hence why I like the idea of the hub.

Any help appreciated!


----------



## Joey2Sites

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *steeludder*
> 
> Guys, sorry if it has been covered or solved before, but this thread is 900 pages long, I spend 30 minutes looking through it but so far haven't found an answer to my questions...
> 
> I have an Asus X99-Deluxe board and I connect my 8 case+rad fans to CPU_FAN using a Phanteks PWM fan hub. The WC pump is connected directly to PSU as well as CHA_FAN3 for control.
> 
> Here's the issue though: whenever I warm reboot my computer, BIOS will get stuck showing the dreaded CPU fan error message.
> It's annoying enough to have to go into BIOS and exit without saving every time it happens, but in addition to that, it causes the ASUS fan Xpert settings to be reset every time, and that drives me nuts! Gotta go through the whole auto-tuning again as any profile I'd saved previously would have disappeared in this obnoxious process.
> 
> Note that whenever I shut down the computer and press the button to start it, I do not get the CPU fan error. This only happens if I choose "restart computer" in Windows (or if it crashes for whatever reason).
> 
> Asus says "it's the fan hub's fault".
> 
> So... if it actually is the fan hub's fault, what can I do about it? I use a combination of Corsair AF140, SP140 and SP120 fans, all connected to the hub.
> 
> Ideally I would want all the fans controlled together, as I don't see any real point in controlling them separately, hence why I like the idea of the hub.
> 
> Any help appreciated!


I heard corsair fans use a weird voltage and don't work properly with the hub. I'd try other fans if you have any to test to see if that's the issue. Or get the swiftech hub if corsair fans are 4 pin.


----------



## Joey2Sites

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ironsmack*
> 
> Hey guys,
> 
> I have an unusual question, can someone verify me if they could fit the lower HD cage on the 5 1/4 bay with a P/P UT60?
> 
> Or at least measure the lower HD cage height.
> 
> Thanks!


I was wondering myself.. I'll measure the cage and the 5.25 bay clearance after work.

Edit: did u mean primo or pro/luxe?


----------



## maskymus

He was asking about Primo. I've already provided photos with P/P UT60 (http://www.overclock.net/t/1418637/official-case-phanteks-club-enthoo-primo-enthoo-luxe-enthoo-pro-lovers-owners/8990#post_23714704)


----------



## steeludder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Joey2Sites*
> 
> I heard corsair fans use a weird voltage and don't work properly with the hub. I'd try other fans if you have any to test to see if that's the issue. Or get the swiftech hub if corsair fans are 4 pin.


I made sure I bought the 3-pin versions to be able to plug them into the hub


----------



## WHIMington

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Joey2Sites*
> 
> I heard corsair fans use a weird voltage and don't work properly with the hub. I'd try other fans if you have any to test to see if that's the issue. Or get the swiftech hub if corsair fans are 4 pin.


NO NO NO the problem of Corsair fans is with their PWM version fans might or might not work properly with *Swiftech* hub depending on the numbers of fans!









Be 100% sure what you are saying otherwise it will result in unwanted confusion!









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *steeludder*
> 
> Guys, sorry if it has been covered or solved before, but this thread is 900 pages long, I spend 30 minutes looking through it but so far haven't found an answer to my questions...
> 
> I have an Asus X99-Deluxe board and I connect my 8 case+rad fans to CPU_FAN using a Phanteks PWM fan hub. The WC pump is connected directly to PSU as well as CHA_FAN3 for control.
> 
> Here's the issue though: whenever I warm reboot my computer, BIOS will get stuck showing the dreaded CPU fan error message.
> It's annoying enough to have to go into BIOS and exit without saving every time it happens, but in addition to that, it causes the ASUS fan Xpert settings to be reset every time, and that drives me nuts! Gotta go through the whole auto-tuning again as any profile I'd saved previously would have disappeared in this obnoxious process.
> 
> Note that whenever I shut down the computer and press the button to start it, I do not get the CPU fan error. This only happens if I choose "restart computer" in Windows (or if it crashes for whatever reason).
> 
> Asus says "it's the fan hub's fault".
> 
> So... if it actually is the fan hub's fault, what can I do about it? I use a combination of Corsair AF140, SP140 and SP120 fans, all connected to the hub.
> 
> Ideally I would want all the fans controlled together, as I don't see any real point in controlling them separately, hence why I like the idea of the hub.
> 
> Any help appreciated!


**** here we go again.....









First of all, I highly suggest you and *EVERYONE* to at least open the first page to see if there is any updates and information as well as FAQ posted by thread starters, really it is not THAT hard.

Secondly, without knowing what exactly type of fans you are using(ie. 3 pin or 4 pin) this is hard to get any insight of your setup, but what happens to you sounds like either FanXpert software problem or something the hub is doing makes the board to think that you have connected a new fan, which is unlikely because tach pin on no.1 header(white) is a direct pass through from the fan with no voltage drop what so ever.

Now, if I were you I would first reinstall Asus software suit or FanXpert alone to see if that fix the amnesia problem, if not then its should be UEFI problem, at this point if you have any PWM (4pin) Corsair fan of similar speed, plug that fan directly onto the CPU_FAN header, then either connect the Phanteks fan hub to CPU_OPT or use a 2 way splitter cable to connect the hub to see if that fix the problem(CPU_OPT pin 4 for PWM signal usually is a direct pass through from the CPU_FAN header and have the same PWM signal), doing this will should also surely fix your "CPU fan error" message, so buy an extra PWM Corsair fan if you do not have one won't hurt either.


----------



## steeludder

Firstly, thanks for taking the time to reply, highly appreciated!
Now to the specific points:
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WHIMington*
> 
> First of all, I highly suggest you and *EVERYONE* to at least open the first page to see if there is any updates and information as well as FAQ posted by thread starters, really it is not THAT hard.


Done. Does not address nor solve my problem.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WHIMington*
> Secondly, without what exactly type of fans you are using(ie. 3 pin or 4 pin) this is hard to get any insight of your setup


The PWM fan hub only accepts 3-pin fans... so that's what I'm using!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WHIMington*
> , but what happens to you sounds like either FanXpert software problem or something the hub is doing makes the board to think that you have connected a new fan, which is unlikely because tach pin on no.1 header(white) is a direct pass through from the fan with no voltage drop what so ever.


Why will Fan Xpert reset itself every time I go into the BIOS then? I suspect it's a direct consequence of the BIOS throwing out a CPU fan error because of whatever the Fan Hub is not doing properly.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WHIMington*
> Now, if I were you I would first reinstall Asus software suit or FanXpert alone to see if that fix the amnesia problem,


It didn't unfortunately...
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WHIMington*
> if not then its should be UEFI problem, at this point if you have any PWM (4pin) Corsair fan of similar speed, plug that fan directly onto the CPU_FAN header, then either connect the Phanteks fan hub to CPU_OPT or use a 2 way splitter cable to connect the hub to see if that fix the problem(CPU_OPT pin 4 for PWM signal usually is a direct pass through from the CPU_FAN header and have the same PWM signal), doing this will should also surely fix your "CPU fan error" message, so buy a PWM Corsair fan if you do not have one won't hurt either.


Does it have to be a 4-pin fan? Can I not connect any of my 3-pin Corsair fans into CPU_FAN (and connect the hub to CPU_OPT)? If not yeah, sure, I could certainly invest in one extra fan and give it a go. Will the hub work if I plug it into CPU_OPT?


----------



## maskymus

steeludder,
I'd recommend to perform such tests:
1) connect only one corsair fan to hub and check if you have the same issue.
2) connect one phanteks fan to hub and check the issue during restart.
After these examination, you can clearly say what's causing the problem (too many fans on one header/specifically corsair fans issue/hub problem).


----------



## Joey2Sites

I apologize for not being certain of what I said in my post. I was just trying to say that I heard corsair fans act weird but if you don't know what you're talking about you should just keep your mouth shut. So sorry about that.


----------



## WHIMington

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WHIMington*
> 
> Does it have to be a 4-pin fan? Can I not connect any of my 3-pin Corsair fans into CPU_FAN (and connect the hub to CPU_OPT)? If not yeah, sure, I could certainly invest in one extra fan and give it a go. Will the hub work if I plug it into CPU_OPT?


Yes it needed to be PWM, otherwise the motherboard will just use voltage control for the fans and you will lost control to the hub.
An easier cheap way is to use Intel stock cooler of any type(115x stock or 2011 stock, doesn't matter which one as you are not using it to cool the CPU) to test if the problem still exist


----------



## steeludder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WHIMington*
> 
> Yes it needed to be PWM, otherwise the motherboard will just use voltage control for the fans and you will lost control to the hub.
> An easier cheap way is to use Intel stock cooler of any type(115x stock or 2011 stock, doesn't matter which one as you are not using it to cool the CPU) to test if the problem still exist


Thanks buddy I will try hooking up a 4-pin fan to CPU_FAN and the hub to CPU_OPT tonight. Hopefully that'll solve the issues!


----------



## emsj86

To be honest just don't use the hub is really the best advise. Way to buggy for most and always a problem. Now mine worked fine but I ditched it anyway for swiftech. 8 way. Not trying to be a jerk but is it really worth the hassle


----------



## MrPatate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> To be honest just don't use the hub is really the best advise. Way to buggy for most and always a problem. Now mine worked fine but I ditched it anyway for swiftech. 8 way. Not trying to be a jerk but is it really worth the hassle


Can you plug a mix on 3 and 4 pin fans on it, PWM fans would get the PWM signal and the 3 pin fans would get the 12v modulation all at once?
Or does it have to be one or the other but it cannot do both at once?


----------



## emsj86

Never tried a mix but it should work. I used only 3 pin fans on the hub. As for swiftech 8 way only pwm would really work right


----------



## pshootr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> To be honest just don't use the hub is really the best advise. Way to buggy for most and always a problem. Now mine worked fine but I ditched it anyway for swiftech. 8 way. Not trying to be a jerk but is it really worth the hassle


If yours worked fine, then it is not _always_ a problem. BTW mine works fine as well. Most issues are user error and not the hubs fault. Read your manual folks, even if you have to read it 12 times to understand it. If you have a hard time understanding the manual, then ask us which part you are confused about.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrPatate*
> 
> Can you plug a mix on 3 and 4 pin fans on it, PWM fans would get the PWM signal and the 3 pin fans would get the 12v modulation all at once?
> Or does it have to be one or the other but it cannot do both at once?


You can use 3 and 4 pin fans on the hub at the same time. BTW, your hub will use DC to control all of the fans anyways. It just recieves a PWM signal, it does not send one.


----------



## demitrisln

Hey all building a new computer and need a bit of help. I have the Enthoo Primo and I have no idea how to remove the fan that is already installed on the bottom of the case. I must be missing something...

Thanks


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *demitrisln*
> 
> Hey all building a new computer and need a bit of help. I have the Enthoo Primo and I have no idea how to remove the fan that is already installed on the bottom of the case. I must be missing something...
> 
> Thanks


You need to loosen the radiator bracket and then loosen the fan from it (the screws are on the underside). There should be screws at the back and front of it so it comes off easily when you loosen them.


----------



## brodycorn

My build log, system was originally in an Air 540 but have moved it since to the Luxe to install my loop. I don't think you could fit any more in the case now.








i7 5820K @ 4.5 GHz
16GB Corsair Dominator Platinum DDR4 2666 MHz w/ light bar upgrade kit
Asus X99 Deluxe
2 x EVGA GTX 980 Classified
2 x Samsung 850 Pro 256 GB SSDs in RAID 0
2 x WD Red 3TB in RAID 1
Corsair AX1200i power supply

Cooling:

4 x 140mm Noctua Industrial PPC PWM fans
2 x 120mm Noctua Industrial PPC PWM fans
EK Supremacy EVO CSQ block
2 x EK Classy waterblocks w/ triple EK Terminal interconnect in parallel (middle outlet blanked off)
420mm x 45mm Alphacool NexXxoS rad
240mm x 45mm Alphacool NexXxoS rad
140mm x 30mm Alphacool NexXxoS rad
EK D5 PWM pump with HF top
EK X3 250 res
3/8 - 5/8 inch white Monsoon compression fittings and white Primochill tubing and a couple of Monsoon rotary 90 degree fittings


----------



## demitrisln

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> You need to loosen the radiator bracket and then loosen the fan from it (the screws are on the underside). There should be screws at the back and front of it so it comes off easily when you loosen them.


I got the two screws out which other ones should I take out?


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *demitrisln*
> 
> I got the two screws out which other ones should I take out?


there shouuld be two on the back of the case, next to the hole for a 140mm fan. You can recognise the screws by the ones that have a rubber washer on it. Then there will be one on the cover that covers the 5.25" bays and one on the back (you need to open up the side door on the back. I'll take some pictures if its hard to find them. all screws will have washers on them, the other ones are not for the radiator bracket.


----------



## MikeSp

New Build -- nothing fancy like some of the awesome custom water-cooled builds. (LOVE that case and the amount of room) Since I already had 6 fan headers on the board plus an auxiliary fan control board with 3 more headers, I removed the Phanteks OEM fan controller board and all 9 fans are running off of the motherboard and its accessory board that is connected to the motherboard. The H105 AIO is running directly off of the PSU.


----------



## MrPatate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Never tried a mix but it should work. I used only 3 pin fans on the hub. As for swiftech 8 way only pwm would really work right


My question was really about the Swiftech not the Phantek controller. So Swiftech won't do both at once, that's a shame. The 3 pins fans that came with the case are dead silent (controlled by the motherboard) and I'd like the newer fans to be PWM and not get rid of the Phanteks fans. I'll try to find a fan controller that can do both without reducing PWM fans to 12V modulation.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pshootr*
> 
> You can use 3 and 4 pin fans on the hub at the same time. BTW, your hub will use DC to control all of the fans anyways. It just recieves a PWM signal, it does not send one.


Thanks, but I knew that, my question was really about the Swiftech controller not the Phantek.


----------



## pshootr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrPatate*
> 
> Can you plug a mix on 3 and 4 pin fans on it, PWM fans would get the PWM signal and the 3 pin fans would get the 12v modulation all at once?
> Or does it have to be one or the other but it cannot do both at once?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrPatate*
> 
> My question was really about the Swiftech not the Phantek controller. So Swiftech won't do both at once, that's a shame. The 3 pins fans that came with the case are dead silent (controlled by the motherboard) and I'd like the newer fans to be PWM and not get rid of the Phanteks fans. I'll try to find a fan controller that can do both without reducing PWM fans to 12V modulation.
> Thanks, but I knew that, my question was really about the Swiftech controller not the Phantek.


Perhaps there is a thread for Swiftech?

Edit: Don't mean to be rude but this thread is meant for Phanteks discussion.


----------



## MrPatate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pshootr*
> 
> Perhaps there is a thread for Swiftech?
> 
> Edit: Don't mean to be rude but this thread is meant for Phanteks discussion.


You are not rude. I will look it up when I'm ready to purchase, I asked because he said he was using it, I had the opportunity and took it







. Just like many here ask about the best choice of CLC/fan/WC radiator and not only the "can it fit in the case" question. And yes, like you I'm annoyed to see all the questions about the Phantek controller because no one dares to search a bit (90% of the time, the answer is in post #1).

I posted a few page back a home made dolly that's pretty well made and clean looking and haven't got a single comment. But that controller question gets 5+ replies each time (little bit jealous ahah).


----------



## demitrisln

Ok another question man this is killing me. I have a 360 radiator i'm mounting in the bottom of the Primo and I have removed the bracket but I do not see how the heck I'm suppose to attach the radiator to the case! I must be missing something!


----------



## MrPatate

delete
Where is the delete function? Misread a post and gave a bad answer to a question.


----------



## pshootr

Only a Mod can delete your post. You did the rite thing by using "deleted"









It happens to us all


----------



## Wallboy

Got my new rig up and running. Using a Phanteks Enthoo Luxe case, and I noticed the HDD trays were a bit "flimsy" and thought I might have a problem with some rattling and sure enough I'm getting some front panel rattles when the HDDs are spinning. Anyone have any ideas how I can fix this? Any better way to mount HDDs more solidly?


----------



## Retrosmith

Just finished a build in the Luxe, awesome case. I'm officially a "lover" and currently an "owner" until the client comes and picks it up on Saturday. Can I join?


----------



## WHIMington

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrPatate*
> 
> You are not rude. I will look it up when I'm ready to purchase, I asked because he said he was using it, I had the opportunity and took it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Just like many here ask about the best choice of CLC/fan/WC radiator and not only the "can it fit in the case" question. And yes, like you I'm annoyed to see all the questions about the Phantek controller because no one dares to search a bit (90% of the time, the answer is in post #1).
> 
> I posted a few page back a home made dolly that's pretty well made and clean looking and haven't got a single comment. But that controller question gets 5+ replies each time (little bit jealous ahah).


Personally I find that the Phanteks fans that comes with the case works with the build in hub better then other fans, which have a point because I would at minimum expect their own fan to work, mean while I am using a swiftech hub in between to control all my other PWM fans, works fine.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Retrosmith*
> 
> Just finished a build in the Luxe, awesome case. I'm officially a "lover" and currently an "owner" until the client comes and picks it up on Saturday. Can I join?


Interesting window mod. Is that beveled edge acrylic attached to the outside of the panel with recessed screws?


----------



## Retrosmith

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Interesting window mod. Is that beveled edge acrylic attached to the outside of the panel with recessed screws?


Not quite recessed, the heads are blank and 1/16" high but otherwise yes. I finished the build without ever touching that side panel; it was put away to keep the acrylic from getting scratched. When I put it on at what I thought was the end, the tint was WAY too dark so I made these clear acrylic windows. Lots of sanding and polishing later I think they look much better than the stock window, and they're not tinted at all.


----------



## synphul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wallboy*
> 
> Got my new rig up and running. Using a Phanteks Enthoo Luxe case, and I noticed the HDD trays were a bit "flimsy" and thought I might have a problem with some rattling and sure enough I'm getting some front panel rattles when the HDDs are spinning. Anyone have any ideas how I can fix this? Any better way to mount HDDs more solidly?


I noticed on the underside of the plastic tray there are mounting holes near the rear of the drive where you can add screws either from the side or from the bottom. It might make the tray more rigid. Fortunately mine don't rattle but I agree they're a tad on the flimsy side. Similar release as my old antec but those drive sleds were metal. If adding screws in addition to the plastic pegs that snap in with the quick release mechanism don't work, maybe try some thin sticky backed velcro or something? Even the dot style, just use the soft loop side and toss the scratchy hook side. That way the fuzzy part of the velcro is facing outward from the drive tray and is fairly thin. Try one side first to see if it takes up the slack and if not add to the other side of the plastic sled.


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *demitrisln*
> 
> Ok another question man this is killing me. I have a 360 radiator i'm mounting in the bottom of the Primo and I have removed the bracket but I do not see how the heck I'm suppose to attach the radiator to the case! I must be missing something!


I hvae yet to test actually mounting a 360mm in the bottom of mine, but one thing is for sure you can't mount anything larger than a 240/280 with the radiator bracket mounted (thus you need to mount it through the bottom of the case and not through the radiator bracket). I think there should be something in the manual about this but in case it's not, I just want to say that you may have to remove the 5.25 bay cover. I am unsure since I havent actually tried it myself, but it does look like it may be a tight fit.


----------



## Dorito Bandit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Retrosmith*
> 
> Just finished a build in the Luxe, awesome case. I'm officially a "lover" and currently an "owner" until the client comes and picks it up on Saturday. Can I join?


That looks pretty sweet! The custom window turned out nicely.









Welcome to the club!


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pshootr*
> 
> Perhaps there is a thread for Swiftech?
> 
> Edit: Don't mean to be rude but this thread is meant for Phanteks discussion.


This thread is for anything being used in a Phanteks case.

But yes, there is a very long thread for Swiftech AIO. BramSLI1 is factory rep and posts often there.
http://www.overclock.net/t/1367654/swiftech-h220-h320-h220x-h240x-h140x-and-cm-glacer-240l-360l-owners-club/0_20


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Thats true I suppose but damn way too often it's fan hub discussion period so can't blame people for being sick of it and speaking up about talking about other ones too&#8230;

Plus going on for two pages or something about, like, radiators alone wouldn't be exactly proper either even though they all may be "in a Phanteks case". Maybe if it's measurement discussion or something&#8230;but still.

Wouldn't be a big deal if the thread wasn't so popular and long.


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> Thats true I suppose but damn way too often it's fan hub discussion period so can't blame people for being sick of it and speaking up about talking about other ones too&#8230;
> 
> Plus going on for two pages or something about, like, radiators alone wouldn't be exactly proper either even though they all may be "in a Phanteks case". Maybe if it's measurement discussion or something&#8230;but still.
> 
> Wouldn't be a big deal if the thread wasn't so popular and long.


I know I may be in danger of actually making this another "off topic" theme, but I don't see any real danger off that so here we go: I would argue that the fact that people can discuss more than just the cases themselves is indeed the reason this thread is so long and popular. It is of course hard to say, but in my experience threads that are to limited in the scope that gets brought up dies out far to quickly (simply a lack of interest from all parties). With that in mind, it may not be a bad idea to add some information to the front page when something is brought up again and again regarding the case, but that might be unfair to the thread starter... Also I know quite a bit has been brought up there already so it is in no way any critique to that, I'm simply trying to find a solution or rater a compromise that would make everyone happy









Anyways, on another topic: I have yet to post my build log here in this thread, it's taking time to build and I have to much other stuff going on to focus entirely on it. Would it be better to enter the club now or later in that regard?


----------



## wjturner78

Rainmaker, you've always been apart of the club...... ; D


----------



## JaredLaskey82

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JaredLaskey82*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well about half way through the build. Still waiting on one more shipment of parts.
> managed to get most of the loop fitted and even had time to carbon vinyl the aluminum pannels (no more fingerprints)
> 
> Will keep you posted, but not having fun using a tablet to update with. Lol


http://valid.x86.fr/u6kkte

Starting to play around with the rig now.


----------



## sav4

Hi all I have finally found the Enthoo luxe in Australia for a reasonable price and was wondering those of u that have it are u happy with it and does it have good airflow and room for water cooling ?
Thanks


----------



## deehoC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sav4*
> 
> Hi all I have finally found the Enthoo luxe in Australia for a reasonable price and was wondering those of u that have it are u happy with it and does it have good airflow and room for water cooling ?
> Thanks


I'm a new Luxe owner and I gotta say it was a great purchase.

Good cooling configurations for air or water, nice solid frame even with parts removed, looks good (personal preference obviously), very easy to work in and I gotta give kudos to Phanteks for their customer service as well. One of my included fans had a problem and all it took was sending them a copy of my invoice and within the hour I had an email with a tracking number for my replacement fan.

I couldn't be happier with my case.


----------



## sav4

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *deehoC*
> 
> I'm a new Luxe owner and I gotta say it was a great purchase.
> 
> Good cooling configurations for air or water, nice solid frame even with parts removed, looks good (personal preference obviously), very easy to work in and I gotta give kudos to Phanteks for their customer service as well. One of my included fans had a problem and all it took was sending them a copy of my invoice and within the hour I had an email with a tracking number for my replacement fan.
> 
> I couldn't be happier with my case.


Good to know.
What case did u previously have ?


----------



## deehoC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sav4*
> 
> Good to know.
> What case did u previously have ?


I was using a HAF 912 so this is a drastic improvement in terms of room/cable management/overall quality lol


----------



## sav4

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *deehoC*
> 
> I was using a HAF 912 so this is a drastic improvement in terms of room/cable management/overall quality lol


And cooling ? I will be coming from a scout 2 which is similar to the 912


----------



## deehoC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sav4*
> 
> And cooling ? I will be coming from a scout 2 which is similar to the 912


Coolermaster Hyper 212 Evo with 1x Gelid Wing UV Blue 120mm exhausting out the top
2x Gelid Wing UV Blue 120mm intake in the front
1x Phanteks PH-F200SP exhausting out the top
1x Gelid Wing UV Blue 120mm exhausting out the rear

Not quite sure what my cpu core idle temps are (Thanks AMD! First world problems man..) but my socket is idling at 32c, my GPU idles at 22c and my SSDs are 23c and 24c respectively.


----------



## MrGrievous

For me on the Luxe I wish they had done away with the optical drive cage and allowed support for 2 3 fan radiators preferably 420 mm radiators







and made it so HDD's could be mounted on the back of the case. others than that I love it also wish it was just slightly taller so I could do p/p on a 45 mm thick radiator up top, but I think thats more of a issue with my mobo heatsinks.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *deehoC*
> 
> Coolermaster Hyper 212 Evo with 1x Gelid Wing UV Blue 120mm exhausting out the top
> 2x Gelid Wing UV Blue 120mm intake in the front
> 1x Phanteks PH-F200SP exhausting out the top
> 1x Gelid Wing UV Blue 120mm exhausting out the rear
> 
> Not quite sure what my cpu core idle temps are (Thanks AMD! First world problems man..) but my socket is idling at 32c, my GPU idles at 22c and my SSDs are 23c and 24c respectively.


yeah....gotta love the amd cpu algorithm lies until 40c...it's really inaccurate below that


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrGrievous*
> 
> For me on the Luxe I wish they had done away with the optical drive cage and allowed support for 2 3 fan radiators preferably 420 mm radiators
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and made it so HDD's could be mounted on the back of the case. others than that I love it also wish it was just slightly taller so I could do p/p on a 45 mm thick radiator up top, but I think thats more of a issue with my mobo heatsinks.


Although it may be a bit like cursing in church, I do think the Fractal Design Define R5 would fit your needs nicely if that is what you would be after. There are other alternatives than Phanteks on the market, and although Phanteks makes great cases, they can still stand to get some proper competition. For me, the Define R5 looks to be exactly that. I just love when manufacturers strive to outdo eachother, so hopefully the next iteration of Luxe/pro cases will learn from the compedtition and we will see more of the goodness on the Mk II edition


----------



## sav4

That's for the reply guys .
So the luxe has plenty of room looking at putting a h240x and a 240mm rad in there or a Ek x240 kit or would the r5 define be better?


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sav4*
> 
> That's for the reply guys .
> So the luxe has plenty of room looking at putting a h240x and a 240mm rad in there or a Ek x240 kit or would the r5 define be better?


For that use the luxe would be fine, the reason I mentioned the r5 is because it can fit a 420mm rad in top and a 360mm in front, so as midi cases go it's able to fit as much as you can actually cram in one. Quality wise though, I would not be surprised if the luxe would be better than the r5. My Enthoo Primo certainly is finished better than my brothers R4, it's just the small things like softer metal and so on. I have no idea if the luxe is a better case once it's been mounted, but it does look to have somewhat better air flow (the downside of a sound insulated case like the R5). Both would serve you well though, and both have their merits. The R5 simply wins on the amount of large radiators it can fit, since you can potentially mount a 140mm in the back, a 420mm in the top and a 360mm in the front at the same time.

I would say that you should go by price and features (which ones you find most useful). Also there is the design feature, and while I personally love the flat front of the R5 it isn't for everyone.


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sav4*
> 
> That's for the reply guys .
> So the luxe has plenty of room looking at putting a h240x and a 240mm rad in there or a Ek x240 kit or would the r5 define be better?


it does. the define R5 is nicre for a mid tower and I wish the Pro/Luxe were as modular with the drive bays, but it's much shorter than the Luxe. even with the greater offset top mount it has quite a bit less room. either would be fine for your setup though.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> For that use the luxe would be fine, the reason I mentioned the r5 is because it can fit a 420mm rad in top and a 360mm in front, so as midi cases go it's able to fit as much as you can actually cram in one. Quality wise though, I would not be surprised if the luxe would be better than the r5. My Enthoo Primo certainly is finished better than my brothers R4, it's just the small things like softer metal and so on. I have no idea if the luxe is a better case once it's been mounted, but it does look to have somewhat better air flow (the downside of a sound insulated case like the R5). Both would serve you well though, and both have their merits. The R5 simply wins on the amount of large radiators it can fit, since you can potentially mount a *140mm in the back, a 420mm in the top and a 360mm in the front at the same time*.
> 
> I would say that you should go by price and features (which ones you find most useful). Also there is the design feature, and while I personally love the flat front of the R5 it isn't for everyone.


a 360 nemesis black ice nearly takes up the whole top of the R5 (length) and comes close to the rear fan. a thin 420 rad can be done with rad on the rear fan, but not with a 360 in front. best you could do is cram them in with no fittings or tubing and they'd be touching.

http://www.overclock.net/t/838683/fractal-design-case-club/12240_40#post_23546645


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PureBlackFire*
> 
> it does. the define R5 is nicre for a mid tower and I wish the Pro/Luxe were as modular with the drive bays, but it's much shorter than the Luxe. even with the greater offset top mount it has quite a bit less room. either would be fine for your setup though.
> a 360 nemesis black ice nearly takes up the whole top of the R5 (length) and comes close to the rear fan. a thin 420 rad can be done with rad on the rear fan, but not with a 360 in front. best you could do is cram them in with no fittings or tubing and they'd be touching.
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/838683/fractal-design-case-club/12240_40#post_23546645


You do know that you could run the fittings in the bottom of that front rad right? Although I would agree that the top fan would be a tight fit on a 360mm rad there. Either way, I just went from the factory site where it does mention that specifically. Still, I stand by what I said, both are great cases, but you are correct in the regard of the Luxe. I am unsure which one I would go with, even though I do really love the R5 I am to pleased with the build quality of the Primo to not at lest consider the Luxe.

Either way it's not my choice, and I only try to inform as best as I can. It is up to sav4 to consider the merits of both cases and other alternatives and choose whichever fits his plan the best. there are many things to consider and, personally I find it best to inform about all the alternatives, rather than saying this and this will work.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sav4*
> 
> That's for the reply guys .
> So the luxe has plenty of room looking at putting a h240x and a 240mm rad in there or a Ek x240 kit or would the r5 define be better?


For the record though, the luxe will fit your needs nicely. If you want extra radiator space (without modding) though then the R5 might be a good choice, but you would loose some of the features that can be found on the luxe by doing so.


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> You do know that you could run the fittings in the bottom of that front rad right? Although I would agree that the top fan would be a tight fit on a 360mm rad there. Either way, I just went from the factory site where it does mention that specifically. Still, I stand by what I said, both are great cases, but you are correct in the regard of the Luxe. I am unsure which one I would go with, even though I do really love the R5 I am to pleased with the build quality of the Primo to not at lest consider the Luxe.
> 
> Either way it's not my choice, and I only try to inform as best as I can. It is up to sav4 to consider the merits of both cases and other alternatives and choose whichever fits his plan the best. there are many things to consider and, personally I find it best to inform about all the alternatives, rather than saying this and this will work.


even with the front rad flipped there is still the issue of clearance. the 360 overhangs the 240 in khemist's post showing that two triple rads are impossible. if reversed so the connects on the top rad are at the back, goodbye rear mounted rad. I honestly think the R5 is perfectly suited to sav4's needs, but as far as
Quote:


> you can potentially mount a 140mm in the back, a 420mm in the top and a 360mm in the front *at the same time*


you simply cannot. 140 rear, thin 360/420 on top, 280 front is the most that can be done and would be a tight fit. I do like the case for space efficiency. you said it can hold more big rads, but it can't, it's limited to one on to or one in front. it can hold thicker top rad thanks to the huge offset. I saw a 360 monsta in the R5. though it covered most of the cpu socket and left very little room for a front 240 rad.


----------



## wjturner78

Why not get into a primo?


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wjturner78*
> 
> Why not get into a primo?


I like the Caselabs SM8. not too big, but flexible.


----------



## Mark011

My Enthoo Primo build it's finally finished, here some pics from the final photoshot







More pics will come, check the worklog at

http://www.overclock.net/t/1535117/project-prime-enthoo-primo-white-ed


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PureBlackFire*
> 
> even with the front rad flipped there is still the issue of clearance. the 360 overhangs the 240 in khemist's post showing that two triple rads are impossible. if reversed so the connects on the top rad are at the back, goodbye rear mounted rad. I honestly think the R5 is perfectly suited to sav4's needs, but as far as
> you simply cannot. 140 rear, thin 360/420 on top, 280 front is the most that can be done and would be a tight fit. I do like the case for space efficiency. you said it can hold more big rads, but it can't, it's limited to one on to or one in front. it can hold thicker top rad thanks to the huge offset. I saw a 360 monsta in the R5. though it covered most of the cpu socket and left very little room for a front 240 rad.


Fair enough, you may not be able to mount the 140mm in back at the same time (at least not without mounting the fan on the outside of the case). I don't see how it should be a problem to mount a 360mm in front however while at the same time having a 420 or 360 in top. I don't have any personal experience with the case, but from the looks of it there should be plenty of space for the length of the radiator in front and the fittings should be jmust as easy to mount in the bottom of the case as the top as it looks to be fitted on slits and not fixed position holes.

Either way I think this is a bit out of place as it started off of a question about a different case for another user, and I might have been somewhat reluctant to not continue arguing for my view on it







anyways, foror the two 240mm radiators that Sav4 wants to use then the Luxe/pro would be just as good a case. If not better. Personally I don't see a reason not to go for a 360mm radiator in the top but there may be many factrors that I don't know about. so... yeah


----------



## PureBlackFire

from my perspective there's nothing to argue. I think the R5 is a good case in general and has great space efficiency (10/10 in this category). it's just a simple fact that it can't physically fit two triple rads in the top and front at the same time. it should be pretty clear from the video review and from khemist's posts. best setup is the longest rad you can fit in push/pull IMO. and who cares that it's a phanteks club. I'll talk about what I want in here doyll won't say a thing. cheers.


----------



## wjturner78

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PureBlackFire*
> 
> from my perspective there's nothing to argue. I think the R5 is a good case in general and has great space efficiency (10/10 in this category). it's just a simple fact that it can't physically fit two triple rads in the top and front at the same time. it should be pretty clear from the video review and from khemist's posts. best setup is the longest rad you can fit in push/pull IMO. and who cares that it's a phanteks club. I'll talk about what I want in here doyll won't say a thing. cheers.


seems slightly snippy and extremely arrogant. ....


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PureBlackFire*
> 
> from my perspective there's nothing to argue. I think the R5 is a good case in general and has great space efficiency (10/10 in this category). it's just a simple fact that it can't physically fit two triple rads in the top and front at the same time. it should be pretty clear from the video review and from khemist's posts. best setup is the longest rad you can fit in push/pull IMO. and who cares that it's a phanteks club. I'll talk about what I want in here doyll won't say a thing. cheers.


fair enough, I jsut figured it would be tones of stuff about another subject entirelly







I also think that I'm a bit lacking in my current vocabulary, so some of what I say may be taken the wrong way. Anyways, In regards to the radiators, I'm still unsure but I will take your word for it. God knows it's not always as easy as the case manufacturers says, which can be seen with my Primo where a lot of 480 rads would not actually fit all that well in the top due to a stupid oversight towards teh front of the case where a metal plate is placed slightly to low to fit radiators with end plugs on them. Which is a bit unfortunate when it could have easily have been corrected for in the design. Anyways, It's only good to discuss things. Although I actually love to discuss stuff with people I do find that there is a time and place for everything, which in this case I was starting to worry that I would have oversteped. There wasn't any other reason for my comment really









Anyways, back to building for me


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wjturner78*
> 
> seems slightly snippy and extremely arrogant. ....


if you say so.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> fair enough, I jsut figured it would be tones of stuff about another subject entirelly
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also think that I'm a bit lacking in my current vocabulary, so some of what I say may be taken the wrong way. Anyways, In regards to the radiators, I'm still unsure but I will take your word for it. God knows it's not always as easy as the case manufacturers says, which can be seen with my Primo where a lot of 480 rads would not actually fit all that well in the top due to a stupid oversight towards teh front of the case where a metal plate is placed slightly to low to fit radiators with end plugs on them. Which is a bit unfortunate when it could have easily have been corrected for in the design. Anyways, It's only good to discuss things. Although I actually love to discuss stuff with people I do find that there is a time and place for everything, which in this case I was starting to worry that I would have oversteped. There wasn't any other reason for my comment really
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anyways, back to building for me


exactly. I believe they said the Pro/Luxe could mount two 200mm fans up top as well. funny they neglected to mention that's after you unscrew that wall in front of the drive cages and drill the rest of the holes. case manufacturers do it often. some do take the cautious route when claiming support for things.


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PureBlackFire*
> 
> if you say so.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> exactly. I believe they said the Pro/Luxe could mount two 200mm fans up top as well. funny they neglected to mention that's after you unscrew that wall in front of the drive cages and drill the rest of the holes. case manufacturers do it often. some do take the cautious route when claiming support for things.


only place I have actually seen that would have to be with my current case, which would be the Nanoxia DS1. They seem to be very carefull when mentioning what is supported and not, for it can support a lot mroe than Nanoxia mentiones. For example with the top mounted 240mm radiator where it will actually easily fit a 60mm thick radiator. Also some small details that has been stupidly designed with this case, like no modular drive bay where everything else seem to be as modular as can get. The top "chimney is also very badly designed where with just a slight bit of engenuity you could modify it to work as designed but actually mount fans underneath it (there is space as it is, jsut some stupidly placed "rods" that prevent it).

I wonder if these manufacturers actually try to use these cases trhemselves before releasing. I mean it's easy to oversee such small details, but it's also those small touches that could turn a good case in to a brilliant case. Not always the features, but the fact that everything has been tested to work with almost every variation of hardware.


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> only place I have actually seen that would have to be with my current case, which would be the Nanoxia DS1. They seem to be very carefull when mentioning what is supported and not, for it can support a lot mroe than Nanoxia mentiones. For example with the top mounted 240mm radiator where it will actually easily fit a 60mm thick radiator. Also some small details that has been stupidly designed with this case, like no modular drive bay where everything else seem to be as modular as can get. The top "chimney is also very badly designed where with just a slight bit of engenuity you could modify it to work as designed but actually mount fans underneath it (there is space as it is, jsut some stupidly placed "rods" that prevent it).
> 
> I wonder if these manufacturers actually try to use these cases trhemselves before releasing. I mean it's easy to oversee such small details, but it's also those small touches that could turn a good case in to a brilliant case. Not always the features, but the fact that everything has been tested to work with almost every variation of hardware.


I agree 100%. take the Pro/Luxe front and bottom mounts. there are no holes for a 140mm fan in the front location in them even though two 140mm fans in the bottom fit easily. I've always felt the wall covering the drive cages needs to be closer to the window panel and the 5.25" bays need to be easily removable. add in offset mounts for the top and they'd get alot better. I think a revision should be in the works for phanteks. one company who's been doing great in this are lately is thermaltake. I like how modular their drive bays areand the nice offset mount for the top on the V31/41/51. the only issue is still build quality, but features and fit they have made huge progress in the past year. their budget towers could be a little wider too. in the case of Nanoxia DS1, they weren't thinking of rad support with that one (or any of the DS series really). I do like their solid and quality feel for the price.


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PureBlackFire*
> 
> I agree 100%. take the Pro/Luxe front and bottom mounts. there are no holes for a 140mm fan in the front location in them even though two 140mm fans in the bottom fit easily. I've always felt the wall covering the drive cages needs to be closer to the window panel and the 5.25" bays need to be easily removable. add in offset mounts for the top and they'd get alot better. I think a revision should be in the works for phanteks. one company who's been doing great in this are lately is thermaltake. I like how modular their drive bays areand the nice offset mount for the top on the V31/41/51. the only issue is still build quality, but features and fit they have made huge progress in the past year. their budget towers could be a little wider too. in the case of Nanoxia DS1, they weren't thinking of rad support with that one (or any of the DS series really). I do like their solid and quality feel for the price.


Yeah it's lacking in support of larger radiators, but if I remember correctly it was also one of teh first cases with offset holes in the top to acomodate thicker radiators. It's lacking in other ways though, but when build quality is concerned they are at Fractal Designs level. There is a destinct difference in build quality between my DS1 and my Enthoo Primo, but then again the Enthoo Primo is more than twice the price. Can't wait to get down to the real building in this one


----------



## PureBlackFire

lucky you. every time I see a Primo I want to buy one. knowing I don't have the hardware to fill it. I just want it anyway.


----------



## sav4

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> Fair enough, you may not be able to mount the 140mm in back at the same time (at least not without mounting the fan on the outside of the case). I don't see how it should be a problem to mount a 360mm in front however while at the same time having a 420 or 360 in top. I don't have any personal experience with the case, but from the looks of it there should be plenty of space for the length of the radiator in front and the fittings should be jmust as easy to mount in the bottom of the case as the top as it looks to be fitted on slits and not fixed position holes.
> 
> Either way I think this is a bit out of place as it started off of a question about a different case for another user, and I might have been somewhat reluctant to not continue arguing for my view on it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> anyways, foror the two 240mm radiators that Sav4 wants to use then the Luxe/pro would be just as good a case. If not better. Personally I don't see a reason not to go for a 360mm radiator in the top but there may be many factrors that I don't know about. so... yeah


I only have a cpu and a gpu rto cool later and I like the h240x as its expandable to do a gpu later so most probably don't need really big rads as it should cool both components but I am trying to think ahead that if it is struggling or I sli I can add another rad to help .
Some really good points u guys are making I didn't even think about room for connecting rads in the spots.


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PureBlackFire*
> 
> lucky you. every time I see a Primo I want to buy one. knowing I don't have the hardware to fill it. I just want it anyway.


yeah, my purchase was simply doine by the fact that I procured as much stuff as I may actually manage to cram in to my DS1 after modifying it significantly. I ended up giving up on that idea and got the Enthoo Primo as it's one of the better WC cases I could get in my country and I really don't like the Corsair cases. It's also a brilliant case for the price.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sav4*
> 
> I only have a cpu and a gpu rto cool later and I like the h240x as its expandable to do a gpu later so most probably don't need really big rads as it should cool both components but I am trying to think ahead that if it is struggling or I sli I can add another rad to help .
> Some really good points u guys are making I didn't even think about room for connecting rads in the spots.


Personally I would try to get the Fractal Design Kelvin series, as they are better priced here in Scandinavia (totally what I would get if I was to buy new AIO units right now). They also come with alphacool, all copper radiators and offer 360mm radiators. I have however heard that they are more difficult to procure outside of Europe. Swiftech is also a good choise though.


----------



## sav4

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> yeah, my purchase was simply doine by the fact that I procured as much stuff as I may actually manage to cram in to my DS1 after modifying it significantly. I ended up giving up on that idea and got the Enthoo Primo as it's one of the better WC cases I could get in my country and I really don't like the Corsair cases. It's also a brilliant case for the price.
> Personally I would try to get the Fractal Design Kelvin series, as they are better priced here in Scandinavia (totally what I would get if I was to buy new AIO units right now). They also come with alphacool, all copper radiators and offer 360mm radiators. I have however heard that they are more difficult to procure outside of Europe. Swiftech is also a good choise though.


I never really considered those but with all the research I've been doing I have heard good things about them and there is a stockist close by, so they are expandable?
Good pumps blocks etc ?


----------



## MrGrievous

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> Although it may be a bit like cursing in church, I do think the Fractal Design Define R5 would fit your needs nicely if that is what you would be after. There are other alternatives than Phanteks on the market, and although Phanteks makes great cases, they can still stand to get some proper competition. For me, the Define R5 looks to be exactly that. I just love when manufacturers strive to outdo eachother, so hopefully the next iteration of Luxe/pro cases will learn from the compedtition and we will see more of the goodness on the Mk II edition


Does the R5 have removable screws or comes in white? I just love how Phanteks cases uses screws. Makes installing the top radiator SO much easier.


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrGrievous*
> 
> Does the R5 have removable screws or comes in white? I just love how Phanteks cases uses screws. Makes installing the top radiator SO much easier.


I think the R5 is like it's older brothers in that regard, and I know most of the R4 is riveted. I would assume that at least teh drive bay is fitted with screws in the R5 though since its removable. Other than that I can't say much, may want to send a mail to their support.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sav4*
> 
> I never really considered those but with all the research I've been doing I have heard good things about them and there is a stockist close by, so they are expandable?
> Good pumps blocks etc ?


They should be fairly good, although I suspect the block in the h240x will be better as it's a regular Apogee XL. The Fractal Design uses regular G1/4 fittings just like the Swiftech kits, so it's really up to you. The h240x also looks easy to expand and upgrade though so it may not be a bad choice, placing it in the front for later upgrades for example. I have no idea how the Swiftech kits are built but fromt he looks of it it's just a simply small reservoir connected to a DDC pump and a 280mm/240mm radiator. so if it is then they may very well be easy to upgrade. It's all about price though, if you are on a budget to start with then a Kelvin may be a good choise. I cant speak for the strength of teh pump on it though, but Fractal claims it should have a high head pressure. It's good radiators though so if you do choose to go full out custom at some point, you could always use the 30mm thick alphacool radiator in the loop without the pump/block. The Fractal Design fans also looks to be slightly better then the Swiftech helix fans that comes with their AIOs.


Spoiler: fan comparison:



Fractal design Silent Series HP 120:

800 - 1700 RPM
PWM control
Max air flow: 62.4 CFM
Max pressure: 2.33 mm H2O (at 1700RPM)
Acoustical noise: 26.9 dB(A)
DC 12V, 0.18A
Swiftech Helix 120 PWM (the one on H220x):

800-1800RPM
PWM Control
54.55 CFM at 1800RPM
2.29 mmH20 at 1800RPM
7 - 13.8 VDC 0.2A
<33 DBA at 1800RPM
for H240x check this fan.



The Fractal Design looks to be a very good option for those looking for an expandable system though, but I wouldn't count the Swiftech out.

Edit: The Kelvin is also impossible to get in North America. Fractal Design has chosen not to release them there due to a certain court case involving two well known watercooling companies (if you have followed it you know exactly which one I'm refering to), so they won't release them in North America until the dispute has been solved.


----------



## sav4

Thanks for the help guys just ordered the luxe
Little more to my liking and easy to add stuff ect I won't be going hardcore water cooling anytime soon so it will easily handle my build I'll post some pics when it's set up.
Thanks again


----------



## WHIMington

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PureBlackFire*
> 
> if you say so.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> exactly. I believe they said the Pro/Luxe could mount two 200mm fans up top as well. funny they neglected to mention that's after you unscrew that wall in front of the drive cages and drill the rest of the holes. case manufacturers do it often. some do take the cautious route when claiming support for things.


At some point there were people saying the top can fit 2 200mm fan, but I am quite sure those people are not Phanteks themself, I think it was some reviewer complaining about the fact that there is enough room on top but no holes to mount, in any cast I'd go for 3 good 140mm fan instead anytime.
The bottom mounting slots as well as piece of metal that block access to radiator fitting is the only oversight for me, not too hard to be deal with with a saw, and for those complaints about front 5.25 bays, well, all I.can say is that I need a place to fit my lovely lovely Aquaero 6


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PureBlackFire*
> 
> from my perspective there's nothing to argue. I think the R5 is a good case in general and has great space efficiency (10/10 in this category). it's just a simple fact that it can't physically fit two triple rads in the top and front at the same time. it should be pretty clear from the video review and from khemist's posts. best setup is the longest rad you can fit in push/pull IMO. and who cares that it's a phanteks club. I'll talk about what I want in here doyll won't say a thing. cheers.


You are taking liberties. I do not condone your attitude or saying what I will or will not do or say about what you post.









You have posted many good things here .. and I agree with much of it. But I draw the line here and now.
*Let me be very clear!
Do not try using me in defense of what you write without my express consent!
Got it?*









I have not tried the Define R5. I have a modified Define R2 (front, bottom & back vent grills remove, all 140mm intake fans with SST-FF141B filters) and like it very much. Would love to do a comparison of Define R5 with Enthoo Luxe & Pro.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> I wonder if these manufacturers actually try to use these cases trhemselves before releasing. I mean it's easy to oversee such small details, but it's also those small touches that could turn a good case in to a brilliant case. Not always the features, but the fact that everything has been tested to work with almost every variation of hardware.


I think most to lots of testing to be sure most things will fit, but there are so many possibilities it is near impossible to not miss a few things.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PureBlackFire*
> 
> lucky you. every time I see a Primo I want to buy one. knowing I don't have the hardware to fill it. I just want it anyway.


Primo is very nice, but it is also very big. I love mine, but could easily (and would) move everything I have in it into an Enthoo Luxe in a heartbeat.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> Personally I would try to get the Fractal Design Kelvin series, as they are better priced here in Scandinavia (totally what I would get if I was to buy new AIO units right now). They also come with alphacool, all copper radiators and offer 360mm radiators. I have however heard that they are more difficult to procure outside of Europe. Swiftech is also a good choise though.


My understanding is teh Kelvin has a rather low powered pump compared to some. It's fine as built, but questionable if wanting to expand.


----------



## SLK

I have an Enthoo Primo on the way. Most expensive case I have ever bought. I have an R9 295x2 Does anyone know if the radiator fits on the bottom 120mm rear fan mount? I am wondering if the tubing is long enough.

If this doesn't work I am going with a custom loop.


----------



## wjturner78

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SLK*
> 
> I have an Enthoo Primo on the way. Most expensive case I have ever bought. I have an R9 295x2 Does anyone know if the radiator fits on the bottom 120mm rear fan mount? I am wondering if the tubing is long enough.
> 
> If this doesn't work I am going with a custom loop.


Welcometo the club, I hope you love your primo as much as I do, Iit'sjust a very well thought out case


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WHIMington*
> 
> At some point there were people saying the top can fit 2 200mm fan, but I am quite sure those people are not Phanteks themself, I think it was some reviewer complaining about the fact that there is enough room on top but no holes to mount, in any cast I'd go for 3 good 140mm fan instead anytime.
> The bottom mounting slots as well as piece of metal that block access to radiator fitting is the only oversight for me, not too hard to be deal with with a saw, and for those complaints about front 5.25 bays, well, all I.can say is that I need a place to fit my lovely lovely Aquaero 6


could be the case. I've seen this mentioned in a couple of reviews so I figured they got this info from the manufacturer.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> You are taking liberties. I do not condone your attitude or saying what I will or will not do or say about what you post.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You have posted many good things here .. and I agree with much of it. But I draw the line here and now.
> *Let me be very clear!
> Do not try using me in defense of what you write without my express consent!
> Got it?*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have not tried the Define R5. I have a modified Define R2 (front, bottom & back vent grills remove, all 140mm intake fans with SST-FF141B filters) and like it very much. Would love to do a comparison of Define R5 with Enthoo Luxe & Pro.


I don't feel correcting misinformation based soley on eyeball speculation requires defense (maybe it does though eh), but I'll remember to get permission before mentioning you in the future.


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SLK*
> 
> I have an Enthoo Primo on the way. Most expensive case I have ever bought. I have an R9 295x2 Does anyone know if the radiator fits on the bottom 120mm rear fan mount? I am wondering if the tubing is long enough.
> 
> If this doesn't work I am going with a custom loop.


Maybe... although I would be careful saying whether or not it will. Some AIO units have very short tubes so it may be problematic. I can almost say for certain that it won't fit anywhere else than the 140mm rear exhaust since the Enthoo Primo is a very large case indeed. If you give me a measurement of the tube length from the card to the radiator, I could do some test fitting. There should not be a problem mounting it where the 140mm exhaust fan is however.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> I think most to lots of testing to be sure most things will fit, but there are so many possibilities it is near impossible to not miss a few things.


I agree completely, there is however some cases where the manufacturers promise everything between heaven and earth while still not actually making a proper case. It is hard not to miss a few small things such as in the Phanteks cases, they are excellent and offer solutions that many other simply can't. I do however hope that they pay attention and fix those small bits in the second iteration of their cases (I really hope they will continue selling them for years to come).
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> My understanding is teh Kelvin has a rather low powered pump compared to some. It's fine as built, but questionable if wanting to expand.


Yeah, I read up on it after posting. For an AIO unit it does seem to be a good product but it still struggles with the same stuff that all the rest does. The pump simply isn't strong enough to run any big loop. I do however think it should be strong enough to include a GPU and another rad, but it would struggle beyond that (you would probably have to go with high flow radiators and blocks). If the Swiftech H240x really comes with a regular DDC, then that might very well be a better purchase. It is hard to say though and I would have to read up on all these modular AIO units.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> Yeah, I read up on it after posting. For an AIO unit it does seem to be a good product but it still struggles with the same stuff that all the rest does. The pump simply isn't strong enough to run any big loop. I do however think it should be strong enough to include a GPU and another rad, but it would struggle beyond that (you would probably have to go with high flow radiators and blocks). If the Swiftech H240x really comes with a regular DDC, then that might very well be a better purchase. It is hard to say though and I would have to read up on all these modular AIO units.


The Swiftech uses their MCP30 pump - 1.0 gpm with 2.2m of head pressure. The Kelvin pump is .32gpm and 1m of head pressure. Adding a GPU and second rad to a Kelvin effectively is *very* optimistic, the Swiftech has no issue with it.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> The Swiftech uses their MCP30 pump - 1.0 gpm with 2.2m of head pressure. The Kelvin pump is .32gpm and 1m of head pressure. Adding a GPU and second rad to a Kelvin effectively is *very* optimistic, the Swiftech has no issue with it.


wholeheartedly agree here my mcp30 in my h220x is currently pushing 3 rads two gpu blocks second res and cpu at 4.8...with decent temperatures not that I recommend running the pump this hard at 100 percent but it suprised me...since I don't have my second pump yet I figured I would need drop cpu back to stock but its soldiering on like a bawse...


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> wholeheartedly agree here my mcp30 in my h220x is currently pushing 3 rads two gpu blocks second res and cpu at 4.8...with decent temperatures not that I recommend running the pump this hard at 100 percent but it suprised me...since I don't have my second pump yet I figured I would need drop cpu back to stock but its soldiering on like a bawse...


That is definitely taking it close to the edge of its capabilities.

Something that many don't realize is that the MCP50 drops into the MCP30 housing - so if you want to double up the flow and pressure, its just minor surgery away.


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> The Swiftech uses their MCP30 pump - 1.0 gpm with 2.2m of head pressure. The Kelvin pump is .32gpm and 1m of head pressure. Adding a GPU and second rad to a Kelvin effectively is *very* optimistic, the Swiftech has no issue with it.


Which is why I said that the Swiftech might very well be a better purchase even if the Kelvin comes with a better radiator. As for what the pump can handle, you would be surprised how much stuff you can run of a regular AIO pump. It would be far from recommended of course, but possible. If I were to go with such a compact solution though I might be more inclined to try the H2O-X20 Elite Series as the Apogee Drive block comes with the MCP35x and has a pre-installed heat sink for it. These kits cost quite a bit though so in such a case you might as well just go with an EK kit or something like that.

I had big hopes for the fractal design kelvin, but it seems they went with to weak of a pump on them.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PureBlackFire*
> 
> I don't feel correcting misinformation based soley on eyeball speculation requires defense (maybe it does though eh), but I'll remember to get permission before mentioning you in the future.


correcting misinformation is not the problem.
Mentioning me is not a problem either.
But saying
Quote:


> I'll talk about what I want in here doyll won't say a thing.


is what got my hackles up. Correct misinformation all you want. Just don't think I will let you "say whatever you want," because if you step over the line I will not back you up .. Wouldn't be the first time I reported someone to the Mods .. and I'm sure it wouldn't be the last time either.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> Yeah, I read up on it after posting. For an AIO unit it does seem to be a good product but it still struggles with the same stuff that all the rest does. The pump simply isn't strong enough to run any big loop. I do however think it should be strong enough to include a GPU and another rad, but it would struggle beyond that (you would probably have to go with high flow radiators and blocks). If the Swiftech H240x really comes with a regular DDC, then that might very well be a better purchase. It is hard to say though and I would have to read up on all these modular AIO units.


It is a good AIO compared to CLCs, but can't hold a candle to Swiftech. I'm t surprised Fractal Design marketed it with such a low rated pump.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> The Swiftech uses their MCP30 pump - 1.0 gpm with 2.2m of head pressure. The Kelvin pump is .32gpm and 1m of head pressure. Adding a GPU and second rad to a Kelvin effectively is *very* optimistic, the Swiftech has no issue with it.


Thanks for the data.









I couldn't remember how much difference there was and was too lazy to look it up.


----------



## emsj86

So my build is in this months motm. I'm sure I don't have a shot. But was hoping my fellow phanteks owners would help me out alittle. Obviously you don't have to but anything helps. Thank you. The build is "blue blurry" phanteks enthoo pro. Voting should start today if not very shortly


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> correcting misinformation is not the problem.
> Mentioning me is not a problem either.
> But aying
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> I'll talk about what I want in here doyll won't say a thing.
> 
> 
> 
> is what got my hackles up. Correct misinformation all you want. Just don't think I will let you "say whatever you want," because if you step over the line I will not back you up .. Wouldn't be the first time I reported someone to the Mods .. and I'm sure it wouldn't be the last time either.
Click to expand...

yes that was very uncharacteristic of me I apologize.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> That is definitely taking it close to the edge of its capabilities.
> 
> Something that many don't realize is that the MCP50 drops into the MCP30 housing - so if you want to double up the flow and pressure, its just minor surgery away.


I already ordered an mcp50x for a second pump for my res but it had a connection issue so it's under rma...but they are handling it well and went above and beyond with the customer service side so soon ill have proper flow again


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PureBlackFire*
> 
> yes that was very uncharacteristic of me I apologize.


Yeah, not to mention you are treading on my turf as the presumptuous and cynical one around here......


----------



## SLK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> Maybe... although I would be careful saying whether or not it will. Some AIO units have very short tubes so it may be problematic. I can almost say for certain that it won't fit anywhere else than the 140mm rear exhaust since the Enthoo Primo is a very large case indeed. If you give me a measurement of the tube length from the card to the radiator, I could do some test fitting. There should not be a problem mounting it where the 140mm exhaust fan is however.


Apparently the Asus X99-A has a PCI-E x16 slot 3 spaces down from the top and according to Asus' specifications, it will run at PCI-E x16 with a 5820k. I may have just solved my issue.


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Yeah, not to mention you are treading on my turf as the presumptuous and cynical one around here......


Yea well I figured I'd give you the weekend off....


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PureBlackFire*
> 
> yes that was very uncharacteristic of me I apologize.


LOL
Yes, it was way out of character for you. Apology accepted.









I was not so much jumping you but more trying it nip it in the bud so others would not make similar statements. You knowledge and help is greatly appreciated .. and I'm assuming other agree. You are a great help to us here.


----------



## MrPatate

New review of the PRO by Anandtech

http://www.anandtech.com/show/9062/phanteks-enthoo-pro-case-review


----------



## SLK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> Maybe... although I would be careful saying whether or not it will. Some AIO units have very short tubes so it may be problematic. I can almost say for certain that it won't fit anywhere else than the 140mm rear exhaust since the Enthoo Primo is a very large case indeed. If you give me a measurement of the tube length from the card to the radiator, I could do some test fitting. There should not be a problem mounting it where the 140mm exhaust fan is however.


Actually, can you measure the distance from the 2nd bracket from the top to the bottom rad support? I may just bottom mount this. Luckily the tubes are relatively long and flexible on the 295x2.

Thanks


----------



## maskymus

I measured around 33cm from the top of second PCIe slot till the bottom rad support and around 15cm from the top of second PCIe slot till the bottom of last PCIe slot.


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *maskymus*
> 
> I measured around 33cm from the top of second PCIe slot till the bottom rad support and around 15cm from the top of second PCIe slot till the bottom of last PCIe slot.


I measure abnout 20-25 in my case from bottom rad mount to the lowest pci slot. So if the tubes are about 30cm long it should be fine.


----------



## maskymus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> I measure abnout 20-25 in my case from bottom rad mount to the lowest pci slot.


For me it looks like 18cm.
Photo:


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *maskymus*
> 
> For me it looks like 18cm.
> Photo:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I see, I measured from where the tubing woul have been on a rad placed there to where it would have been placed on the GPU. Thus mine is less accurate, but an indication of how long the tubing would have to be.


----------



## Malik

project *99*


----------



## EdTheHead

Beautiful computer









The lighting in your pictures really make the white look great. I love that the top of the case looks somewhat metallic in the 6th picture. Great looking white build, really makes me want to get a white case now


----------



## MrGrievous

I do wonder though if the universal top on the Luxe/Pro impacts performace of 140 fans when the blades are covered from reaching the fins opon the radiator. Probably a minimum amount.


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrGrievous*
> 
> I do wonder though if the universal top on the Luxe/Pro impacts performace of 140 fans when the blades are covered from reaching the fins opon the radiator. Probably a minimum amount.


Shouldn't really impact them as long as the area between the radiator and the fan is more or less air tight. I ended up using a coupld of rubber gromits to do so onmy Nanoxia, so if it isn't then it's always easy to fix.

edit: I see what you mean now, I have no clue. It probably does something?


----------



## sav4

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Malik*
> 
> project *99*


Nice build very clean


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Malik*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> project *99*


something about this build resonates with me more than your other ones.


----------



## Dorito Bandit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Malik*
> 
> project *99*
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


It's beautiful! Nice job!









By the way, did you forget to remove the plastic covering on those latches?


----------



## Malik

Snap, i miss that


----------



## Ryankirsch13

Hey all! I'm new here and I'm about to order myself an Enthoo Luxe.. Man is it a beautiful case. I use a Corsair 200r and while its a decent case the dust is killing me and the cheap fans i have make this this sound like a jet. My main goal is a quiet running rig. So my questions in relation to my plan...
I plan on using a top mounted AiO cooler, probably 280mm with 2 fans. I'd like to get 2 Noctua NF A14 FLX fans and 2 Noctua static pressure fans for the radiator (I have not picked out a AiO yet and custom loop is out of the question.) My biggest concern is I want to make full use of the supplied fan hub but the Noctua fans are PWM models so I'm not sure if this will work as intended as maybe they are 4 pin and the hub accepts 3 pin. The Hub I'll connect to the CPU header and set speeds via bios settings. Will these Noctua fans, either NFA14 or NFF12 work okay with the supplied phanteks hub? Also leaning towards an H110 aio or the nzxt x61, just worried about pump noise. Can anyone offer some clarity?thanks!


----------



## MrPatate

Something cool could be done with this paint and the inside of our cases...


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ryankirsch13*
> 
> Hey all! I'm new here and I'm about to order myself an Enthoo Luxe.. Man is it a beautiful case. I use a Corsair 200r and while its a decent case the dust is killing me and the cheap fans i have make this this sound like a jet. My main goal is a quiet running rig. So my questions in relation to my plan...
> I plan on using a top mounted AiO cooler, probably 280mm with 2 fans. I'd like to get 2 Noctua NF A14 FLX fans and 2 Noctua static pressure fans for the radiator (I have not picked out a AiO yet and custom loop is out of the question.) My biggest concern is I want to make full use of the supplied fan hub but the Noctua fans are PWM models so I'm not sure if this will work as intended as maybe they are 4 pin and the hub accepts 3 pin. The Hub I'll connect to the CPU header and set speeds via bios settings. Will these Noctua fans, either NFA14 or NFF12 work okay with the supplied phanteks hub? Also leaning towards an H110 aio or the nzxt x61, just worried about pump noise. Can anyone offer some clarity?thanks!


it's fine. any fan connected to the hub is controlled by the cpu_fan pwm signal. 3pin/4pin it doesn't matter. as for the cooler, if you can get the Swiftech H240X go with that. I recommend two 140mm fans for the front intake as well running between 800-1000rpm.


----------



## Ryankirsch13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PureBlackFire*
> 
> it's fine. any fan connected to the hub is controlled by the cpu_fan pwm signal. 3pin/4pin it doesn't matter. as for the cooler, if you can get the Swiftech H240X go with that. I recommend two 140mm fans for the front intake as well running between 800-1000rpm.


Thanks for the response. I noticed the included fan hub for the Luxe only accepts 3 pin connectors and it did not look like there was enough room to slide a 4 pin on there. The NFF12s are my choice for radiators but only come PWM with 4 pin connectors. If the 4 pins will fit on the hub than awesome it just didn't look like you could fit a 4 pin on there. I heard the swiftech is quiet however I heard they have a higher failure rate and I picked the h100i strictly because of customer support and warranty. I have not ordered it yet though. I plan on 2 NF-A14 FLX noctuas as intake. Move the stock 140 up top to the HDD cage to feed the 780 and then mount the radiator up top and use the hub for all the fans. Any comment on swiftechs reliability?


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ryankirsch13*
> 
> Hey all! I'm new here and I'm about to order myself an Enthoo Luxe.. Man is it a beautiful case. I use a Corsair 200r and while its a decent case the dust is killing me and the cheap fans i have make this this sound like a jet. My main goal is a quiet running rig. So my questions in relation to my plan...
> I plan on using a top mounted AiO cooler, probably 280mm with 2 fans. I'd like to get 2 Noctua NF A14 FLX fans and 2 Noctua static pressure fans for the radiator (I have not picked out a AiO yet and custom loop is out of the question.) My biggest concern is I want to make full use of the supplied fan hub but the Noctua fans are PWM models so I'm not sure if this will work as intended as maybe they are 4 pin and the hub accepts 3 pin. The Hub I'll connect to the CPU header and set speeds via bios settings. Will these Noctua fans, either NFA14 or NFF12 work okay with the supplied phanteks hub? Also leaning towards an H110 aio or the nzxt x61, just worried about pump noise. Can anyone offer some clarity?thanks!


I can offer some clarity on a couple of points -

1. The hub will control the NF-A14 and NF-F12 without a problem.
2. Spending $90~100 on fans for an already overpriced CLC is possibly the worst use you could find for that money.
3. As @PureBlackFire pointed out, a Swiftech H240-X is far superior to either piece you are looking and doesn't need you to spend any more on fans - 



 . It also happens to look incredible in a Luxe.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ryankirsch13*
> 
> Thanks for the response. I noticed the included fan hub for the Luxe only accepts 3 pin connectors and it did not look like there was enough room to slide a 4 pin on there. The NFF12s are my choice for radiators but only come PWM with 4 pin connectors. If the 4 pins will fit on the hub than awesome it just didn't look like you could fit a 4 pin on there. I heard the swiftech is quiet however I heard they have a higher failure rate and I picked the h100i strictly because of customer support and warranty. I have not ordered it yet though. I plan on 2 NF-A14 FLX noctuas as intake. Move the stock 140 up top to the HDD cage to feed the 780 and then mount the radiator up top and use the hub for all the fans. Any comment on swiftechs reliability?


The Swiftech reliability issue was with the first batch of H220 pumps. The H220-X has no issues, and to date failure rates have been incredibly low. Check the owners club thread, you will find nothing but raves about the quality and customer service.


----------



## Ryankirsch13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> I can offer some clarity on a couple of points -
> 
> 1. The hub will control the NF-A14 and NF-F12 without a problem.
> 2. Spending $90~100 on fans for an already overpriced CLC is possibly the worst use you could find for that money.
> 3. As @PureBlackFire pointed out, a Swiftech H240-X is far superior to either piece you are looking and doesn't need you to spend any more on fans -
> 
> 
> 
> . It also happens to look incredible in a Luxe.


Thanks for clearing that up. The primary reason I decided to go CLC is because I really prefer air cooling, But I want silence and every cooler that I look at that offers silence is either out of stock, big and ugly, or big, beautiful, but will require new ram modules as I'm not pulling these heatsinks off. Plus I want it to look cool and clean. The swiftech is way out of the price range.. I don't need extra performance at all I'm not OCing high and I use a 3570k. I would of went with be quiet!'s dark rock 3 but its Its impossible to find In america now. Everywhere I sold out. The phanteks tc14pe looked great and did great but I would need new ram modules. The 120mm version is too much for what you get, and the noctua dh14 is just big and ugly.. So opted for a sleek water cooler because I have never done it and thought it'd look beautiful and run quiet enough. My case with fans right now sounds like a damn jet engine.. Corsair 200r with cooler master sickle flows and a gtx 780 reference.. LOL


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ryankirsch13*
> 
> Hey all! I'm new here and I'm about to order myself an Enthoo Luxe.. Man is it a beautiful case. I use a Corsair 200r and while its a decent case the dust is killing me and the cheap fans i have make this this sound like a jet. My main goal is a quiet running rig. So my questions in relation to my plan...
> I plan on using a top mounted AiO cooler, probably 280mm with 2 fans. I'd like to get 2 Noctua NF A14 FLX fans and 2 Noctua static pressure fans for the radiator (I have not picked out a AiO yet and custom loop is out of the question.) My biggest concern is I want to make full use of the supplied fan hub but the Noctua fans are PWM models so I'm not sure if this will work as intended as maybe they are 4 pin and the hub accepts 3 pin. The Hub I'll connect to the CPU header and set speeds via bios settings. Will these Noctua fans, either NFA14 or NFF12 work okay with the supplied phanteks hub? Also leaning towards an H110 aio or the nzxt x61, just worried about pump noise. Can anyone offer some clarity?thanks!


speaking from experience I can tell you that the Noctua NF-A14 will perform exactly as well as the included Phanteks F140SP fans. So it's better to just save your money on thoose and use the phanteks fans unless you are going for a specific theme. Noctua themselves will recommend the NF-A14 as radiator fans, and as 14cm fans go they are not bad for that purpose just a bit unnecessary if you already have some F140SP fans. As for which AIO is best... well they all more or less ound the same as most of theme use the exact same pumps. I would personally recommend the Cooler Master Nepton 280L as they tend to be cheaper, and especially if you are going to change the fans. For 240mm radiators though I would recommned the Cooler Master Nepton 240m, as again they are cheaper but this one actually comes with decent stock fans (as does the newer Corsair ones with the SP fans).

Anyways, this is just my personal opinion so you should ofcourse look at it yourself. I just find it unessesary to use extra money on stuff that really isn't better, unless ofcourse it's all about the theme (in which case it seems everything is alowed). You can ofcourse also mount a Fractal Design Kelvin 360mm radiator (which as far as I can see from reviews are dead silent) in that case or perhaps the Thermaltake Water 3.0 Ultimate is more your taste.

Edit: oh and for the record, there is many reasons to choose a CLC (and the Fractal is exactly that unless you open it) unit instead of an open system like the H240x. They are maintenance free for one thing (the 240x offers that up to 3 years, but sealed systems offer it as long if not longer). The 240x does perform better however, so it's all abot pros and cons.


----------



## Ryankirsch13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> speaking from experience I can tell you that the Noctua NF-A14 will perform exactly as well as the included Phanteks F140SP fans. So it's better to just save your money on thoose and use the phanteks fans unless you are going for a specific theme. Noctua themselves will recommend the NF-A14 as radiator fans, and as 14cm fans go they are not bad for that purpose just a bit unnecessary if you already have some F140SP fans. As for which AIO is best... well they all more or less ound the same as most of theme use the exact same pumps. I would personally recommend the Cooler Master Nepton 280L as they tend to be cheaper, and especially if you are going to change the fans. For 240mm radiators though I would recommned the Cooler Master Nepton 240m, as again they are cheaper but this one actually comes with decent stock fans (as does the newer Corsair ones with the SP fans).
> 
> Anyways, this is just my personal opinion so you should ofcourse look at it yourself. I just find it unessesary to use extra money on stuff that really isn't better, unless ofcourse it's all about the theme (in which case it seems everything is alowed). You can ofcourse also mount a Fractal Design Kelvin 360mm radiator (which as far as I can see from reviews are dead silent) in that case or perhaps the Thermaltake Water 3.0 Ultimate is more your taste.
> 
> Edit: oh and for the record, there is many reasons to choose a CLC (and the Fractal is exactly that unless you open it) unit instead of an open system like the H240x. They are maintenance free for one thing (the 240x offers that up to 3 years, but sealed systems offer it as long if not longer). The 240x does perform better however, so it's all abot pros and cons.


Hey thanks for your input. I've read everywhere that either the Gentle Typhoons AP15 (discontinued) or the Noctua fans are near silent especially at 7v settings. They also last a long time a perform better than pretty much everyones fans according to just about everything i've read. Ill get the case first and continue to use my beautiful Zalmann cooler (sarcasm) until i figure out exactly what needs to be done. If i manage to find a be quiet! dark rock 3 for a fair price and not 150 bucks shipped from italy then ill get it. I personally am a bit paranoid about the whole water cooling thing and was told corsair offers not only the best price.. (h100i at 89.99) but a 5 year warranty on that product and they will cover a damaged part if a leak happens.


----------



## emsj86

If you want the best aio go swiftech it's basicay a custom loop pre made and can be expanded. A cheaper type of the swiftech aio is the cooler master glacer 240l. Obviously it's up to you and there is no wrong answer just figure I name some suggestions


----------



## Ryankirsch13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> If you want the best aio go swiftech it's basicay a custom loop pre made and can be expanded. A cheaper type of the swiftech aio is the cooler master glacer 240l. Obviously it's up to you and there is no wrong answer just figure I name some suggestions


Thanks for the suggestions! unfortunately the swiftech is way too expensive for me, plus i dont need that much performance. I was hoping to spend less than 100, would of really been nice if i could of got that air cooler from be quiet for 60 USD but ohh well, i doubt it will be back in stock anytime soon


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ryankirsch13*
> 
> Thanks for clearing that up. The primary reason I decided to go CLC is because I really prefer air cooling, *But I want silence* and every cooler that I look at that offers silence is either out of stock, big and ugly, or big, beautiful, but will require new ram modules as I'm not pulling these heatsinks off. Plus I want it to look cool and clean. The swiftech is way out of the price range.. I don't need extra performance at all I'm not OCing high and I use a 3570k. I would of went with be quiet!'s dark rock 3 but its Its impossible to find In america now. Everywhere I sold out. The phanteks tc14pe looked great and did great but I would need new ram modules. The 120mm version is too much for what you get, and the noctua dh14 is just big and ugly.. So opted for a sleek water cooler because I have never done it and thought it'd look beautiful and run quiet enough. My case with fans right now sounds like a damn jet engine.. Corsair 200r with cooler master sickle flows and a gtx 780 reference.. LOL


Keep in mind that CLCs are your loudest option. In terms of noise to performance, they are a world worse than a quality air cooler. They use high fpi rads that need a ton of airflow to perform. There is no way around it. You mentioned the Dark Rock 3 (awesome cooler), well, CLCs are the polar opposite of the Dark Rock 3.

Essentially....trying to use quiet fans at 7V on a high fpi aluminum rad is going to have pretty bad performance. You would be far better off with a $50 air cooler.

How about something like a Cryorig R1 Universal? Or Thermalright IBE-Extreme? Or even a Thermalright True Spirit 140? Phanteks TC14S?


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ryankirsch13*
> 
> Thanks for the response. I noticed the included fan hub for the Luxe only accepts 3 pin connectors and it did not look like there was enough room to slide a 4 pin on there. The NFF12s are my choice for radiators but only come PWM with 4 pin connectors. If the 4 pins will fit on the hub than awesome it just didn't look like you could fit a 4 pin on there. I heard the swiftech is quiet however I heard they have a higher failure rate and I picked the h100i strictly because of customer support and warranty. I have not ordered it yet though. I plan on 2 NF-A14 FLX noctuas as intake. Move the stock 140 up top to the HDD cage to feed the 780 and then mount the radiator up top and use the hub for all the fans. Any comment on swiftechs reliability?


Best way to control PWM fans is with PWM signal using a PWM splitter or hub.

The Phanteks hub is a PWM _controlled_ hub that uses variable voltage to control the fan speed.

A PWM splitter or hub uses PWM signal to PWM fans' internal PWM PCB to plus the constant 12v power coming from PSU.

Hope that makes sense.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrPatate*
> 
> Something cool could be done with this paint and the inside of our cases...


But it only lasts for a week.


----------



## MrPatate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But it only lasts for a week.


At least you won't be sorry if the result is ugly


----------



## WHIMington

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ryankirsch13*
> 
> Hey thanks for your input. I've read everywhere that either the Gentle Typhoons AP15 (discontinued) or the Noctua fans are near silent especially at 7v settings. They also last a long time a perform better than pretty much everyones fans according to just about everything i've read. Ill get the case first and continue to use my beautiful Zalmann cooler (sarcasm) until i figure out exactly what needs to be done. If i manage to find a be quiet! dark rock 3 for a fair price and not 150 bucks shipped from italy then ill get it. I personally am a bit paranoid about the whole water cooling thing and was told corsair offers not only the best price.. (h100i at 89.99) but a 5 year warranty on that product and they will cover a damaged part if a leak happens.


Again Gentle Typhoons are NOT discountinued, they are made by Moter manufacturer Nidec and just no longer sale by Scythe.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WHIMington*
> 
> Again Gentle Typhoons are NOT discountinued, they are made by Moter manufacturer Nidec and just no longer sale by Scythe.


GentleTyphoon 120mm Silent Case Fan Series D1225C12B 1450, 1150, 1850 and 4250 RPM are now being sold by Coolerguys
http://www.coolerguys.com/sgt120.html


----------



## SLK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *maskymus*
> 
> I measured around 33cm from the top of second PCIe slot till the bottom rad support and around 15cm from the top of second PCIe slot till the bottom of last PCIe slot.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> I measure abnout 20-25 in my case from bottom rad mount to the lowest pci slot. So if the tubes are about 30cm long it should be fine.


Thanks and + rep to you both, it appears the tubing is 38cm on the 295x2 so things should go together nice


----------



## xKrNMBoYx

This case (Enthoo Pro) is at the top of my list for being used with my next build (which may be a year or more). Lots of rad space without modding for a fair price IMO. I like the clean looks too.


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xKrNMBoYx*
> 
> This case (Enthoo Pro) is at the top of my list for being used with my next build (which may be a year or more). Lots of rad space without modding for a fair price IMO. I like the clean looks too.


You won't regret it. For 90 usd I'm surprised what I did and can do even more with this case


----------



## Ryankirsch13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Keep in mind that CLCs are your loudest option. In terms of noise to performance, they are a world worse than a quality air cooler. They use high fpi rads that need a ton of airflow to perform. There is no way around it. You mentioned the Dark Rock 3 (awesome cooler), well, CLCs are the polar opposite of the Dark Rock 3.
> 
> Essentially....trying to use quiet fans at 7V on a high fpi aluminum rad is going to have pretty bad performance. You would be far better off with a $50 air cooler.
> 
> How about something like a Cryorig R1 Universal? Or Thermalright IBE-Extreme? Or even a Thermalright True Spirit 140? Phanteks TC14S?


I personally do not like any of thermalrights coolers and not the cryorig r1 either. The phanteks TC14s would be the one of they didn't opt out of using a decent fan. Supposedly that fan is terrible. What I think I'll do if I can't get a dark rock 3, I'll get the flagship TC14PE and I'll just have to run one fan until I can get some new ram sticks. Been eyeballing g.skill ripjaws x.. Currently have corsair vengeance


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ryankirsch13*
> 
> I personally do not like any of thermalrights coolers and not the cryorig r1 either. The phanteks TC14s would be the one of they didn't opt out of using a decent fan. Supposedly that fan is terrible. What I think I'll do if I can't get a dark rock 3, I'll get the flagship TC14PE and I'll just have to run one fan until I can get some new ram sticks. Been eyeballing g.skill ripjaws x.. Currently have corsair vengeance


Sounds like you probably have had rather limited experience with coolers.


----------



## tatmMRKIV

thernalright silver arrows are really good coolers but they dont fit many builds


----------



## sav4

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ryankirsch13*
> 
> Hey all! I'm new here and I'm about to order myself an Enthoo Luxe.. Man is it a beautiful case. I use a Corsair 200r and while its a decent case the dust is killing me and the cheap fans i have make this this sound like a jet. My main goal is a quiet running rig. So my questions in relation to my plan...
> I plan on using a top mounted AiO cooler, probably 280mm with 2 fans. I'd like to get 2 Noctua NF A14 FLX fans and 2 Noctua static pressure fans for the radiator (I have not picked out a AiO yet and custom loop is out of the question.) My biggest concern is I want to make full use of the supplied fan hub but the Noctua fans are PWM models so I'm not sure if this will work as intended as maybe they are 4 pin and the hub accepts 3 pin. The Hub I'll connect to the CPU header and set speeds via bios settings. Will these Noctua fans, either NFA14 or NFF12 work okay with the supplied phanteks hub? Also leaning towards an H110 aio or the nzxt x61, just worried about pump noise. Can anyone offer some clarity?thanks!


Here is a video comparing the top water coolers


----------



## tatmMRKIV

that raijintech is one sexy aio under a blacklight. I saw some pics on razer's facebook page that made me uncomfortable in my pants


----------



## Evoly

Question about the Primo / Primo SE.

The front (2x 140mm) and side (2x 140mm). Are they without spaces? I would like to use a 280mm "radiator" gasket as noise isolation and since the 280s cost the same like the 140's I would like to safe some money here.

The bottom (2x 140mm) Phanteks said it would be possible to mount 2x 140mm radiators there. Is this true? With one tubing exit left and one right?


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tatmMRKIV*
> 
> that raijintech is one sexy aio under a blacklight. I saw some pics on razer's facebook page that made me uncomfortable in my pants


The raijintech AIO combines a copper block with an aluminum rad. Same goes for Thermaltake. They use a strong glycol coolant so the inevitable corrosion that is going to take place should outlast its warranty, but it's going to have a much shorter planned obsolescence than a loop that doesn't combine such dissimilar metals. No way would I buy one.


----------



## Ryankirsch13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Sounds like you probably have had rather limited experience with coolers.


You are correct, not that thermalright doesn't preform well, they just don't look very good.. Decided on the Phanteks TC14PE in Black to match the case and ill add the 2nd fan when i can replace the memory.
Ill wait and see what it sounds and performs like and ill probably end up with 2 140mm intake, maybe even one on the bottom slot as well, 140mm rear exhaust and 2 140mm top exhaust with maybe one fan pulling towards the GPU


----------



## MrGrievous

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Evoly*
> 
> Question about the Primo / Primo SE.
> 
> The front (2x 140mm) and side (2x 140mm). Are they without spaces? I would like to use a 280mm "radiator" gasket as noise isolation and since the 280s cost the same like the 140's I would like to safe some money here.
> 
> The bottom (2x 140mm) Phanteks said it would be possible to mount 2x 140mm radiators there. Is this true? With one tubing exit left and one right?


If the Primo is anything like the Luxe/Pro then the include fans dont come with the rubber spaces on the corners of the fans like the retail packaged ones do unfortunately.

Well this is annoying, just installed windows again on my rig and now im regretting it cause my pwm hub is no longer working even though the only change was a fresh install of windows. It was working flawlessly 5 hours ago ugh its too late now to mess with it


----------



## Evoly

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrGrievous*
> 
> If the Primo is anything like the Luxe/Pro then the include fans dont come with the rubber spaces on the corners of the fans like the retail packaged ones do unfortunately.
> 
> Well this is annoying, just installed windows again on my rig and now im regretting it cause my pwm hub is no longer working even though the only change was a fresh install of windows. It was working flawlessly 5 hours ago ugh its too late now to mess with it


Sorry if my worse english failed there. I'm asking if it woul dbe possible to use gaskets like these:

http://www.xs-pc.com/radiator-accessories/280mm-radiator-gasket

in the site, front and bottom mounting position.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ryankirsch13*
> 
> You are correct, not that thermalright doesn't preform well, they just don't look very good.. Decided on the Phanteks TC14PE in Black to match the case and ill add the 2nd fan when i can replace the memory.
> Ill wait and see what it sounds and performs like and ill probably end up with 2 140mm intake, maybe even one on the bottom slot as well, 140mm rear exhaust and 2 140mm top exhaust with maybe one fan pulling towards the GPU


I'm running a PH-TC14PE_B in one rig.








Changed fans to TY-147 with black housing and soft white fan.
arguably the top air coolers are PH-TC14PE, R1 Ultimate & NH-D15. In my opinion Silver Arrows' are also one of the top coolers, as are NH-D14, Deepcool Gamer Storm Assassin, TRUE Spirit 140 Power & rev.A, NH-U14S, Dark Rock Pro 2 & 3, etc. Thing is there are so many within a few degrees it's very hard to tell which is / are best. Add to this not all included fans are equal .. NH-D15 has NF-A15 PWM 1500rpm 82.52cfm fans while most others are 1200-1300rpm 70-75cfm. Testing of NH-D15 & NH-D14 with same fans actually shows NH-D14 slightly better, but tester did not use actual cooler intake air temp .. meaning we don't know if the degree difference is intake air temp or actual cooling ability


----------



## JaredLaskey82

It is almost finished.
Only the final touches to go and it will be up and running.











Will post the finished product this weekend.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrGrievous*
> 
> It was working flawlessly 5 hours ago ugh its too late now to mess with it


This is like the theme of the thread. I am not even touching mine at all, most like.


----------



## doyll

@JaredLaskey82
Looking very nice.









@wrigleyvillain
There be gremlins in computers!














I've known it for years, but nobody believe me.








Just because I believe this to be ture doesn't mean I'm paranoid about them. They really do exist just to cause us grief.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Yeah, in this case there is def a "gremlin", it's called the Phanteks fan hub.


----------



## MrPatate

Can the Phantek LED strip be cut at specific length like other LED strip or it cannot?


----------



## MrGrievous

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Evoly*
> 
> Sorry if my worse english failed there. I'm asking if it woul dbe possible to use gaskets like these:
> 
> http://www.xs-pc.com/radiator-accessories/280mm-radiator-gasket
> 
> in the site, front and bottom mounting position.


Come one Primo owners chime in here lol


----------



## LandonAaron

Does anyone sell a clear non-tinted window for the Phanteks cases? Has anyone tried making their own?


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrGrievous*
> 
> Come one Primo owners chime in here lol


Fine I'll take a look at it.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Evoly*
> 
> Sorry if my worse english failed there. I'm asking if it woul dbe possible to use gaskets like these:
> 
> http://www.xs-pc.com/radiator-accessories/280mm-radiator-gasket
> 
> in the site, front and bottom mounting position.


From what I can see there shouldn't be a problem using these gaskets, the mounting holes will uspport a regualr 280mm sized radiator so it should support the gasket without a problem. only thing that may affect anything would be if you were to use both front radiator mounts as it may add a bit to the thickness of the radiators. Other than that, I don't see anything that would stop you from using it, although you may have to use 2mm longer screws to fit the radiators.


----------



## MrGrievous

OK got my fan hub working again, was just me forgetting the setting I chose in speedfan haha, one of the setting being to switch the PWM mode to software controlled


----------



## MrPatate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LandonAaron*
> 
> Does anyone sell a clear non-tinted window for the Phanteks cases? Has anyone tried making their own?


He did a custom one. In the following pages you'll find what he used (for you simply get a non tinted sheet).

http://www.overclock.net/t/1418637/official-case-phanteks-club-enthoo-primo-enthoo-luxe-enthoo-pro-lovers-owners/7060#post_23243993
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *koniu777*
> 
> Hello everyone, I've got my enthoo luxe a couple months ago but I couldn't move my hardware into it because the side panel with window bothered me a lot. The plastic used on the window is very cheap, mine arrived all scratched up from shipping, the placement of the window was always a bit off in my opinion... So lately I've been doing a bit of brain storming on how to overcome this problem on a really awesome case. The solution I've come up with is a tinted acrylic panel that is secured to the case with magnets, I think it looks way better than the original stuff  Posting couple shots of the mod as it is now.


----------



## Evoly

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> Fine I'll take a look at it.
> From what I can see there shouldn't be a problem using these gaskets, the mounting holes will uspport a regualr 280mm sized radiator so it should support the gasket without a problem. only thing that may affect anything would be if you were to use both front radiator mounts as it may add a bit to the thickness of the radiators. Other than that, I don't see anything that would stop you from using it, although you may have to use 2mm longer screws to fit the radiators.


Thank you!

Additonally, due to the extra "length" of 140mm radiators, If I want to place two of them in the bottom slot I have to use the slot and use a bigger width than 280mm, right? So there I should need 140mm gaskets. That means they will just fit on close front and side panel mounting?


----------



## Tunz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LandonAaron*
> 
> Does anyone sell a clear non-tinted window for the Phanteks cases? Has anyone tried making their own?


Mnpctech recently announced they would be making clear windows. They never gave a release date though.


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Evoly*
> 
> Thank you!
> 
> Additonally, due to the extra "length" of 140mm radiators, If I want to place two of them in the bottom slot I have to use the slot and use a bigger width than 280mm, right? So there I should need 140mm gaskets. That means they will just fit on close front and side panel mounting?


Are you planning on mounting two 140mm radiators in teh bottom? tell me what you are planing to do and I will see if it can be done in the case. Keep in mind that I only have a 240mm, 360mm and 140mm radiator to test fit with but I can test fit those if you need verefication.

Also it seems I was wrong about the 280mm in the front and side, but they can be mounted in the bottom.
look at this video if you need some clarification as to what it supports out of box:




Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrPatate*
> 
> He did a custom one. In the following pages you'll find what he used (for you simply get a non tinted sheet).
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1418637/official-case-phanteks-club-enthoo-primo-enthoo-luxe-enthoo-pro-lovers-owners/7060#post_23243993


That just looks so good, I'll have to cehck what I can do in the Primo but a full cover side window always looks better in my eyes







hmm, back to the drawing table then


----------



## Evoly

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> Are you planning on mounting two 140mm radiators in teh bottom? tell me what you are planing to do and I will see if it can be done in the case. Keep in mind that I only have a 240mm, 360mm and 140mm radiator to test fit with but I can test fit those if you need verefication.
> 
> Also it seems I was wrong about the 280mm in the front and side, but they can be mounted in the bottom.
> look at this video if you need some clarification as to what it supports out of box:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That just looks so good, I'll have to cehck what I can do in the Primo but a full cover side window always looks better in my eyes
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> hmm, back to the drawing table then


Meh, thanks for the video. There 280mm bottom placement does look like 2x 140mm rads won't fit.

Due to my scare of watercooling loops I decided to go with AiO coolers. 280for the cpu and 2x 140 for the gpus. I'll go with Kraken X41's if that helps you but from the look of it I guess they won't fit in that position. Even if one loop comes out on the left side and one on the right side. I actually wouldn't like to go for a rear exhaust 140mm rad since the cables will look damn ugly. And front intake with radiators is kinda meh aswell since the air will be pre heated.


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Evoly*
> 
> Meh, thanks for the video. There 280mm bottom placement does look like 2x 140mm rads won't fit.
> 
> Due to my scare of watercooling loops I decided to go with AiO coolers. 280for the cpu and 2x 140 for the gpus. I'll go with Kraken X41's if that helps you but from the look of it I guess they won't fit in that position. Even if one loop comes out on the left side and one on the right side. I actually wouldn't like to go for a rear exhaust 140mm rad since the cables will look damn ugly. And front intake with radiators is kinda meh aswell since the air will be pre heated.


that should not be a problem, there are several places you can fit single 140mm rads. I'll use my single 140mm and take some pictures. I won't have them until tomorrow though so if you can wait another 10 hours for them then I will hvae them for you.

X41 is also a good choice concerning tubing lenght, so it will be easier to route the tubes and place the radiators. If you don't mind me asking what solution are you using to fit them to your GPU?


----------



## Evoly

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> that should not be a problem, there are several places you can fit single 140mm rads. I'll use my single 140mm and take some pictures. I won't have them until tomorrow though so if you can wait another 10 hours for them then I will hvae them for you.
> 
> X41 is also a good choice concerning tubing lenght, so it will be easier to route the tubes and place the radiators. If you don't mind me asking what solution are you using to fit them to your GPU?


I actually tend to use the G10 braket with heatsinks or the Titan X baseplate, but I have to figure it out. I don't like corsairs blower fan solution and there Titan X braket isn't released yet.

I know that there are tons of 140mm placement options. I'm more unsure about 2x 140mm next to each other on the base due to the higher width compared to a 280mm. The 280 has its tube thingy on the one side and the other side is flat. The 140mm has its tube thigny on one side and the other side is also a bit bigger. Here is a pictue what I'm talking about. (Sorry, laptop is too bad for PS so .. paint!)

It isn't accurate but you can clearly see the overlap in the middle of it. Ofc there is some space to the left with the one fan but overall I'm 100% sure that they won't fit next to each other.



http://imgur.com/Jxd0s


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Evoly*
> 
> I actually tend to use the G10 braket with heatsinks or the Titan X baseplate, but I have to figure it out. I don't like corsairs blower fan solution and there Titan X braket isn't released yet.
> 
> I know that there are tons of 140mm placement options. I'm more unsure about 2x 140mm next to each other on the base due to the higher width compared to a 280mm. The 280 has its tube thingy on the one side and the other side is flat. The 140mm has its tube thigny on one side and the other side is also a bit bigger. Here is a pictue what I'm talking about. (Sorry, laptop is too bad for PS so .. paint!)
> 
> It isn't accurate but you can clearly see the overlap in the middle of it. Ofc there is some space to the left with the one fan but overall I'm 100% sure that they won't fit next to each other.
> 
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/Jxd0s


I know exactly what you mean, I'll do some configs for you tomorrow though and I'll see which ones will work. If nothing else you can always end up mouning it at the bottom rear fan exhaust.


----------



## Evoly

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> I know exactly what you mean, I'll do some configs for you tomorrow though and I'll see which ones will work. If nothing else you can always end up mouning it at the bottom rear fan exhaust.


Thank you very much. You allready gave me some new informations. On phanteks website:

http://www.phanteks.com/Enthoo-Primo-SE.html

they just say 1x 140mm rear exhaust but on this picture:

http://www.phanteks.com/assets/enthoo-primo-se-or/Enthoo-Primo_5.jpg

It is obvious that it is 2x 140mm exhaust. thanks for pointing that out. If the dual 140mm rad placement will work, I'll also need an additional fan for that one <.<.


----------



## cr1

I'm looking at the 'Phanteks Enthoo Pro PH-ES614P_BK'-

Does anyone know if a Bitfenix 200mm LED Fan will fit in the front?

Thanks!


----------



## emsj86

If you choose to or not help support fellow phanteks owner for motm. http://www.overclock.net/t/1546811/ocn-mod-of-the-month-march-2015-amateur-class-vote-now/90#post_23746327


----------



## wjturner78

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> If you choose to or not help support fellow phanteks owner for motm. http://www.overclock.net/t/1546811/ocn-mod-of-the-month-march-2015-amateur-class-vote-now/90#post_23746327


I gave my vote to you.

come on guys lets help support a fellow phanteks build and help show how great these cases truly are!


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *taem*
> 
> I know Fan Xpert is superior to Q fan, I'm just using Q fan because I don't want AI Suite. Do you happen to remember where you found those instructions for using Fan Xpert without AI Suite? I can't seem to find them.
> Isn't that cutting it close? There are always variances. If the fans need a bit more amperage, especially at startup, and the header supplies a bit less than 1A, you're risking frying that header. That's never happened to me but I don't ever cut it that close. In that scenario I would just use the sata power connector, if the cost is simply cable management of one molex or sata plug. Also the F140SP has a bigger +/- on its rpms than any other fan I own. +/-250rpm is 10%+ of rated fan speed. That might affect amp draw also.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *taem*
> 
> I know Fan Xpert is superior to Q fan, I'm just using Q fan because I don't want AI Suite. Do you happen to remember where you found those instructions for using Fan Xpert without AI Suite? I can't seem to find them.
> Isn't that cutting it close? There are always variances. If the fans need a bit more amperage, especially at startup, and the header supplies a bit less than 1A, you're risking frying that header. That's never happened to me but I don't ever cut it that close. In that scenario I would just use the sata power connector, if the cost is simply cable management of one molex or sata plug. Also the F140SP has a bigger +/- on its rpms than any other fan I own. +/-250rpm is 10%+ of rated fan speed. That might affect amp draw also.


I'll look for the instructions but it's rather simple.... in fact you might try this. My son just finished his build in the Luxe with 8.1 ... installed the Gigabyte equivalent of AiSuite and set up the fans.... then he wiped the HD and installed Win 7 .... fan control still worked. But with the AiSuite, I think one option is just install it, set up the fans, and then just remove AiSuite from the start yo folder. Then it just sits on ya HD doing nothing unless ya want it to.

According to Asus, the headers are designed for 1 amp constant draw. I ran 8 fans off the header (1.12 amps) w/ no issue for about 3 weeks.....till I got the 2nd hub. The headers must allow for a little leeway for the "inrush current" at startup. Also, what rpm do your fans run at ? Mine never break 850 rpm under stress testing. As to why not run w/ the cable connected.... if ya control is DC voltage, your fans will always be 12v. My son's box has:

1. Two 140TS on the Phanteks PH-TC14-PE connected to CPU Header.... interesting that Phanteks includes a "PWM Adapter Cable" cable with some electronics wrapped inside the cable controlling 3 pin fans quite nicely. I wish Phanteks would sell this separately .... you could take a modmytoys DC hub and use the PWN Adapter cable to duplicate the Phanteks Hub function

2. Six F140SP as case fans on SYS 2

3. One F200SP on SYS 4

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> Really? I thought they where available to everyone now. either way they seem to be fairly reasonable priced as well, here in Norway a Corsair H100i (same as H105 in pricing) would cost me 1150NOK while the 240mm Fractal Design Kepler would cost me 1200NOK in the same store. While the single 120mm Kepler is at 1050NOK and the triple at 1350NOK. This is why I mentioned them, they seem to be fairly well priced for what they are. Hopefully they will come to the states soon, and I do really hope the pricing doesn't become crazy like some products does (Noctua fans for one, I pay the same for them as Corsair fans).


They have the same issue that Swiftech did with Asetek having patented" putting pump on block....tho it **seems** counter intuitive to have a heat generating device on the block, it should have very little effect.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *synphul*
> 
> Those dolly's you guys made are nice, great idea and both came out really slick. Functional and without the 'diy' look.
> I can't speak for radiator performance but the newer noctua redux look pretty nice actually in the two tone light/dark grey color scheme. The only phanteks fan in 140 I have to compare to is the 140sp that came with the enthoo pro. The 1500rpm pwm redux 140's are only slightly louder than the f140sp but are also around 300rpm faster and feel like they push more air. The additional sound I hear is a 'whooshing', not fan noise itself. Went with the noctuas for top as exhaust and they don't rattle/vibrate like the f140sp does when mounted upside down (blade hanging). The vibration doesn't exist when the phanteks fan is mounted vertically and is probably due to the sleeve bearing. I realize it's not the mp edition but probably close enough since they're the same size and use the same sleeved ufb bearing. Just doesn't seem to play nice in all orientations.


Can't speak to the redux but there's a direct comparison here with the AF-15's .... Phanteks gives 3C more cooling at 300 rpm less.
http://www.overclockersclub.com/reviews/phenteks_f140/3.htm

Quote:


> Initially I was worried about giving up the rubber isolators on the corners going with the redux fans and in the past I've always used rubber fan mounts. This is the first time in a long time I've had fans hard mounted to a case with screws (was worried the rubber mounts I had might slip through the mounting slots). No vibrations though from either the phanteks or the noctuas. The grey color scheme looks much better in person than the photos. Colors are personal taste but they're really subdued especially through the tinted enthoo window even with bright white leds.


The Phanteks fans that come with the case do not have rubber mounts ... the ones that ya buy in a box do making for a wobbly rad install. In each build, Phanteks mailed the isolators for the fans that didn't have em, tho they are currently none in stock atm.


----------



## MrGrievous

Hopefully I can finish mine off by the end of this month


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *synphul*
> 
> Unless you're trying to fill out the top of the pro, 3 140's may be overkill. I put 2 140's in the top of mine for top exhaust and it's more than plenty, fills up the length of the case the main window does......


My son has the Luxe with:

3 F140SPs on top
2 F140SPs on bottom
1 F140SP at rear
1 F200SP in front

The 140mm ones run at about 400 rpm off the hub (SYS 2 Header) and the 200mm at about 222 rpm (SYS 4) voltage controlled.

There's also a Phanteks PH-TC14PE air cooler with another two 140mm fans. As with the hub, the fan speed on the cooler is controlled from the CU header with a PWM => 3 pin coverter included w/ the cooler.

Unfortunately the case is not "Dead Silent" whereas my Primo build w/ 15 fans is. While the Seasonic X-1250 is super quiet, the EVGA G2 1000 fan is the only thing you can hear in the Luxe ;( ..... if not for the shroud, I wuda been able to talk him into the Seasonic 1050 Snow.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *taem*
> 
> Anyone know the minimum start voltage of the stock F140SP fans?


I did measure it but I have long since forgotten. On the Primo build, lowest rpm obtained by auto tuning via FanXpert was 321 rpm. On the Luxe with Gugabyte's equivalent, best it could do on same fans was 477 .... however, I did get them lower manually....IIRC, 26% PWM was what i set it at which was a safe margin above minimum... the 200m low setting was 22 rpm.


----------



## wjturner78

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> My son has the Luxe with:
> 
> 3 F140SPs on top
> 2 F140SPs on bottom
> 1 F140SP at rear
> 1 F200SP in front
> 
> The 140mm ones run at about 400 rpm off the hub (SYS 2 Header) and the 200mm at about 222 rpm (SYS 4) voltage controlled.
> 
> There's also a Phanteks PH-TC14PE air cooler with another two 140mm fans. As with the hub, the fan speed on the cooler is controlled from the CU header with a PWM => 3 pin coverter included w/ the cooler.
> 
> Unfortunately the case is not "Dead Silent" whereas my Primo build w/ 15 fans is. While the Seasonic X-1250 is super quiet, the EVGA G2 1000 fan is the only thing you can hear in the Luxe ;( ..... if not for the shroud, I wuda been able to talk him into the Seasonic 1050 Snow.
> I did measure it but I have long since forgotten. On the Primo build, lowest rpm obtained by auto tuning via FanXpert was 321 rpm. On the Luxe with Gugabyte's equivalent, best it could do on same fans was 477 .... however, I did get them lower manually....IIRC, 26% PWM was what i set it at which was a safe margin above minimum... the 200m low setting was 22 rpm.


I have the same psu I changed out the fan to a 140mm the evga fan isnt a 140 but if you use rubber fan mounts it will fit no problem, the difference was night and day the evga fan was louder than my d5 pump now my primo is dead silent.


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Evoly*
> 
> Thank you very much. You allready gave me some new informations. On phanteks website:
> 
> http://www.phanteks.com/Enthoo-Primo-SE.html
> 
> they just say 1x 140mm rear exhaust but on this picture:
> 
> http://www.phanteks.com/assets/enthoo-primo-se-or/Enthoo-Primo_5.jpg
> 
> It is obvious that it is 2x 140mm exhaust. thanks for pointing that out. If the dual 140mm rad placement will work, I'll also need an additional fan for that one <.<.


I did a test fit today with my radiator,and from what I can say you can mount your two radiators in several ways:

mount one in the upper rear exhaust and one in the lower or bottom.
mount one in the lower rear exhaust and one in the bottom
or you could remove the 5.25" cover and mount both in the bottom
All of those will work but, as you said they can't be placed right next to one another in the bottom. So the only option if you want both in the bottom would be to place them as you would a 420mm radiator there, with one spare 140mm space between them and the tubes going up between both radiators.

It's all up to you, but it doesn't look like you will be all that limited when it comes to options. So get what you planned on and have fun while placing them. Oh and I almost forgot. you can move the drive bays to the front and mount a 240mm radiator to the side of it while you mount a 240mm radiator to the bottom of the case at the same time. This would mean that you could mount a 240mm radiator to each GPU if you want that (the H105 I have mounted to my 7950 certanly performs well).

And before I fgorget, if you are planning to use the G10 you need to have two PCI slots between the GPUs as it takes up quite a bit of space. If you want to learn more about AIO mods you can check out my thread about it and I would strongly recommend stopping by the Nvidia afiliated "The Mod" thread.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *taem*
> 
> Anyone know the minimum start voltage of the stock F140SP fans?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> The CPU and CPU_OPT on your board are both PWM and work in tandem. Do not be fooled by ASUS stating that the chassis fan headers can be PWM, they do not generate an actual PWM signal for control and will not work with the Hub. *Only* the two CPU headers will control the fan hub.
> 
> So, yes, the Hub will go to either of the CPU fan headers with the SATA plugged in for power if you are running more than two fans off the Hub. You will likely need to run fan tuning in Thermal Radar to get it working properly.
> 
> The little hiccup here is that both CPU headers share the same fan curve, which may or may not work with your CPU cooler. You may be best off using a chassis fan header for your CPU cooler fans, then assigning that header to respond only to CPU temps in Thermal Radar and set the curves accordingly. This will give you great flexibility and allow for the best noise/performance tweaking of your build.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *taem*
> 
> Anyone know the minimum start voltage of the stock F140SP fans?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> The CPU and CPU_OPT on your board are both PWM and work in tandem. Do not be fooled by ASUS stating that the chassis fan headers can be PWM, they do not generate an actual PWM signal for control and will not work with the Hub. *Only* the two CPU headers will control the fan hub.
> 
> So, yes, the Hub will go to either of the CPU fan headers with the SATA plugged in for power if you are running more than two fans off the Hub. You will likely need to run fan tuning in Thermal Radar to get it working properly.
> 
> The little hiccup here is that both CPU headers share the same fan curve, which may or may not work with your CPU cooler. You may be best off using a chassis fan header for your CPU cooler fans, then assigning that header to respond only to CPU temps in Thermal Radar and set the curves accordingly. This will give you great flexibility and allow for the best noise/performance tweaking of your build.


The Hub works absolutely perfectly fine on DC Voltage headers as was explained by Phanteks a few pages back, it's just not PWM and you can not exceed the header's amperage rating. I am running:

Channel 1:
CPU => Pump No. 1
CPU_OPT => Pump No. 2

Channel No. 2
CHA_2 => Hub No. 1 => (6) F140SPs on 420mm radiator

Channel No. 3
CHA_3 => Hub No. 2 => (4) F140SPs on 280mm radiator

Channel No. 4

CHA_4 => Hub No. 3 => (5) F140SPs case fans

All chassis headers are DC voltage controlled and fan speeds run from 320 rpm to 1238 rpm, tho I never see more than 850. As the 1200 rpm fans only pull 0.14 amps, you can run up to 6 of them w/o exceeding the 1 amp header rating. I ran 8 of them for 3 months off the header. Have a second Z97 Luxe build with 6 F140SPs fans on the hub

Also note that while on my Asus Z87 build has the CPU and CPU OPT on the same channel, this is not universal..... Gigabyte provides separate channels on the Z97 SOC Force board for example.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *steeludder*
> 
> Guys, sorry if it has been covered or solved before, but this thread is 900 pages long, I spend 30 minutes looking through it but so far haven't found an answer to my questions...
> 
> I have an Asus X99-Deluxe board and I connect my 8 case+rad fans to CPU_FAN using a Phanteks PWM fan hub. The WC pump is connected directly to PSU as well as CHA_FAN3 for control.
> 
> Here's the issue though: whenever I warm reboot my computer, BIOS will get stuck showing the dreaded CPU fan error message.....
> 
> Ideally I would want all the fans controlled together, as I don't see any real point in controlling them separately, hence why I like the idea of the hub.
> 
> Any help appreciated!


I don't think it's a good idea to use different manufacturer / speed fans on the same channel.

Your MoBo has

1 x CPU Fan connector(s) (1 x 4 -pin)
1 x CPU OPT Fan connector(s) (1 x 4 -pin)
4 x Chassis Fan connector(s) (4 x 4 -pin)

-I'd put the pump on CPU Header as the feedback that prevents the system from starting if fan isn't spinning is nice.

I don't what fan is where but I assume the rad fans are all the same.

-Put the Rad fans on the hub on CHA_1
-Use the others 3 for case fans....double up the 2 front witha splitter cable if need be.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *steeludder*
> 
> Thanks buddy I will try hooking up a 4-pin fan to CPU_FAN and the hub to CPU_OPT tonight. Hopefully that'll solve the issues!


You by no means need to use a PWM header unless your fan total exceeds 1 amp on the channel.

And generally you want to have different channels so as to be able to control pump speed, case fan speed and rad fan speed independently. I have 4 hubs running of DC headers with rpm range from 326 to 1238 on Asus MoBo / Primo box ... the Gigabyte build is a lil higher but not much.... 26% PWM is all I remember

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrGrievous*
> 
> For me on the Luxe I wish they had done away with the optical drive cage and allowed support for 2 3 fan radiators preferably 420 mm radiators
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and made it so HDD's could be mounted on the back of the case. others than that I love it also wish it was just slightly taller so I could do p/p on a 45 mm thick radiator up top, but I think thats more of a issue with my mobo heatsinks.


It does support 420mm rads on top.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ryankirsch13*
> 
> ....The phanteks tc14pe looked great and did great but I would need new ram modules. The 120mm version is too much for what you get, and the noctua dh14 is just big and ugly.. So opted for a sleek water cooler because I have never done it and thought it'd look beautiful and run quiet enough. My case with fans right now sounds like a damn jet engine.. Corsair 200r with cooler master sickle flows and a gtx 780 reference.. LOL


I just installed a Phanteks (see page 877) and I don't think you will need new ram modules....was surprised to see just under 2" of clearance. If you mount the 2 fans in the middle and rear case side. The problem w/ CLCs is they 95% of them are too loud and the one's that ain't can't bear the moderately price air coolers like the Phanteks. I had to rotate the cooler 90 degrees in the build in the pics because if the 4 PCIE slot Mobo.


----------



## Evoly

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> I did a test fit today with my radiator,and from what I can say you can mount your two radiators in several ways:
> 
> mount one in the upper rear exhaust and one in the lower or bottom.
> mount one in the lower rear exhaust and one in the bottom
> or you could remove the 5.25" cover and mount both in the bottom
> All of those will work but, as you said they can't be placed right next to one another in the bottom. So the only option if you want both in the bottom would be to place them as you would a 420mm radiator there, with one spare 140mm space between them and the tubes going up between both radiators.
> 
> It's all up to you, but it doesn't look like you will be all that limited when it comes to options. So get what you planned on and have fun while placing them. Oh and I almost forgot. you can move the drive bays to the front and mount a 240mm radiator to the side of it while you mount a 240mm radiator to the bottom of the case at the same time. This would mean that you could mount a 240mm radiator to each GPU if you want that (the H105 I have mounted to my 7950 certanly performs well).
> 
> And before I fgorget, if you are planning to use the G10 you need to have two PCI slots between the GPUs as it takes up quite a bit of space. If you want to learn more about AIO mods you can check out my thread about it and I would strongly recommend stopping by the Nvidia afiliated "The Mod" thread.


Ah thanks for clearing that out. Will i have clearance for push pull if I place 1x 140 bottom rear and 1x in the first 140mm bottom slot or am I forced to use the secound one? - I'll need 3 PCIe spaced since I'll also put a Arctic backplate on my Titan's to make them perform even better. Overall I was a bit screwed to let them run 8x PCIe 3.0 but I guess it won't make any difference in fps. At least the possible overclock will give me way more back than running both in the 16x places. I'm just sad that the first 16x slot on the Rampage 5 is the 1. slot. :/.

But since the onboard solution seems to be able to support 250 Ohm I won't need my Xonar Phoebus anymore so I can use all the PCI/e lanes for the GPU's. As I allready mentioned, thanks a heck of a lot for your help! And, also thanks for don't try to convince me to a custom loop. 90% of the people I asked for advices with my G10 mod went crazy about the fact that I don't go for a custom loop >.<.


----------



## VulgarDisplay88

Cancelled


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> speaking from experience I can tell you that the Noctua NF-A14 will perform exactly as well as the included Phanteks F140SP fans. So it's better to just save your money on thoose and use the phanteks fans unless you are going for a specific theme. Noctua themselves will recommend the NF-A14 as radiator fans, and as 14cm fans go they are not bad for that purpose just a bit unnecessary if you already have some F140SP fans. As for which AIO is best... well they all more or less around the same as most of theme use the exact same pumps. I would personally recommend the Cooler Master Nepton 280L ....
> 
> Anyways, this is just my personal opinion so you should ofcourse look at it yourself. I just find it unessesary to use extra money on stuff that really isn't better, unless ofcourse it's all about the theme (in which case it seems everything is alowed). You can ofcourse also mount a Fractal Design Kelvin 360mm radiator (which as far as I can see from reviews are dead silent) in that case or perhaps the Thermaltake Water 3.0 Ultimate is more your taste.
> 
> Edit: oh and for the record, there is many reasons to choose a CLC (and the Fractal is exactly that unless you open it) unit instead of an open system like the H240x. They are maintenance free for one thing (the 240x offers that up to 3 years, but sealed systems offer it as long if not longer). The 240x does perform better however, so it's all abot pros and cons.


The Phanteks fans actually outperform both the AF-15 and AF-14

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ryankirsch13*
> 
> You are correct, not that thermalright doesn't preform well, they just don't look very good.. Decided on the Phanteks TC14PE in Black to match the case and ill add the 2nd fan when i can replace the memory.
> Ill wait and see what it sounds and performs like and ill probably end up with 2 140mm intake, maybe even one on the bottom slot as well, 140mm rear exhaust and 2 140mm top exhaust with maybe one fan pulling towards the GPU


As i said above, I don't think you will have to ... if mounted horizontally, you will miss the cooler but if using slot closest to CPU you might hit the heat pipe.... if using vertically as recommended, with the fan to the left and in the middle you should be fine. DO NOT forget to to use the PWM adapter that comes in the box.... it's white sleeved (at least it was on the Orange one).

By 3C here while at 300 rpm slower
http://www.overclockersclub.com/reviews/phenteks_f140/3.htm

And here, the Noc was 2nd
http://www.silentpcreview.com/article1345-page7.html

Phanteks PH-F140HP/TS
Noctua NF-A14 FLX
Noctua NF-A15 PWM
Noiseblocker B12-2
Noctua NF-P14 FLX

Again, doesn't mean the Nocs are bad fans, but certainly no reason to change out the Phanteks

As for the CLCs... .. the OLC's are just as maintenance free if you don't open it. However with the CLCs for the most part using aluminum rads and copper blocks, I have my doubts as to the viability of the corrosion inhibitors after 3 years .... and the Swiftech H220-X / H240x was both quieter and had better thermal performance than the Kraken X61, CM 240L, h100i and even the bigger TT Water 3.0 Ultimate which were between 2x and 6X as loud.




I have to agree with the reviewer who tested the coolers in the above pics when he says:

http://www.hitechlegion.com/reviews/cooling/liquid/42047-swiftech-h240-x-open-loop-280mm-cpu-cooler-review?showall=&start=3
http://www.hitechlegion.com/reviews/cooling/liquid/40870-swiftech-h220-x-open-loop-240mm-cpu-cooler-review?showall=&start=3
Quote:


> This wasn't a collection of "also-rans" we compared the H240-X to, these are top performing CLC and air coolers available on the market today and the H240-X flat out embarrassed them in every aspect.
> 
> To sum it up; the H220X offers better performance, lower noise, better aesthetics, flawless design and build, better components and the option of expandability when compared to a CLC. Putting it gently, choosing any CLC over the H220X would be doing yourself a huge disservice.


Mu suggestion for any competitor would be a 420mm unit

That doesn't make anyone who disagrees with the above statements wrong, but from my PoV, that's exactly how I see it. Others may have different concerns or goals and they should in turn use what best meets theirs.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrGrievous*
> 
> If the Primo is anything like the Luxe/Pro then the include fans dont come with the rubber spaces on the corners of the fans like the retail packaged ones do unfortunately.


Ask for them







... tho thanks to someone who shall remain nameless , there's no more on stock as of last week.


----------



## Evoly

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> The Phanteks fans actually outperform both the AF-15 and AF-14
> As i said above, I don't think you will have to ... if mounted horizontally, you will miss the cooler but if using slot closest to CPU you might hit the heat pipe.... if using vertically as recommended, with the fan to the left and in the middle you should be fine. DO NOT forget to to use the PWM adapter that comes in the box.... it's white sleeved (at least it was on the Orange one).
> ...


Thanks a lot for that post! I wish they would do black framed and bladed fans. Sadly I have to buy a bunch of IndustrialPPC Noctuas. I'm also sad that Swiftech doesn't really sell it's stuff in Germany. That said, I can just cry in my corner with my not so perfect build where I would get better performance for the same money if stuff would have been available :<.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> I'm running a PH-TC14PE_B in one rig.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Changed fans to TY-147 with black housing and soft white fan.
> arguably the top air coolers are PH-TC14PE, R1 Ultimate & NH-D15. In my opinion Silver Arrows' are also one of the top coolers, as are NH-D14, Deepcool Gamer Storm Assassin, TRUE Spirit 140 Power & rev.A, NH-U14S, Dark Rock Pro 2 & 3, etc. Thing is there are so many within a few degrees it's very hard to tell which is / are best. Add to this not all included fans are equal .. NH-D15 has NF-A15 PWM 1500rpm 82.52cfm fans while most others are 1200-1300rpm 70-75cfm. Testing of NH-D15 & NH-D14 with same fans actually shows NH-D14 slightly better, but tester did not use actual cooler intake air temp .. meaning we don't know if the degree difference is intake air temp or actual cooling ability


I have the PH-TC14-PE, Thermalright Silver Arrow and Noctua DH-14 and would agree w/ most reviewers that that's the order they finish in. The problem with comparing reviews from different sites is the rigs are not the same and can be affected by die shape and size, CPU used, how big the OC / voltage is and of course case cooling determines how much > than ambient the case interior is. The DH-15 and the Cryorig do beat the H100i despite the H100i's huge noise and rpm (2700) ... I have seen the other 3 come close but those 2 top it and it wasn't that close (see above HTL pics).

My usual advice is:

With $60 to spend, the Phanteks PH-TC14PE ... Nothing wrong with the Silver Arrow and DH-14 but they usually cost $75 or more and ain't as perty.

With $90 to spend, I'd take the DH-15 over the Cryorig.... yeah the Cryo wins most reviews by a degree bit at the cost of 5 dbA and I'd rather have less noise than 1C cooler temps.

With $120 to spend, well I simply have nothing to recommend

With $150 to spend, the Swiftech H240-X

I do like that the Phanteks comes with a PWM adapter, that does essentially the same thing as the hub (PWM => 3 pin fan wise) and gives a decent speed range from 600 to 1250 rpm.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Evoly*
> 
> Thanks a lot for that post! I wish they would do black framed and bladed fans. Sadly I have to buy a bunch of IndustrialPPC Noctuas. I'm also sad that Swiftech doesn't really sell it's stuff in Germany. That said, I can just cry in my corner with my not so perfect build where I would get better performance for the same money if stuff would have been available :<.


There's a dye thread on here .... scroll to bottom of 1st link

http://www.overclock.net/t/1244335/sleeving-custom-color-dye/120
http://www.overclock.net/t/551389/keyboard-dye-customization-guide

And I have a pic on how to get the fan blades out if ya need.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LandonAaron*
> 
> Does anyone sell a clear non-tinted window for the Phanteks cases? Has anyone tried making their own?


I seem to recall Bill Owen said he was going to making custom stuff for the Phanteks cases

http://mnpctech.com/phanteks-case-mods/

But no windows on site as yet

Was a build a bout 10 pages back with custom windows.


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> I have the PH-TC14-PE, Thermalright Silver Arrow and Noctua DH-14 and would agree w/ most reviewers that that's the order they finish in. The problem with comparing reviews from different sites is the rigs are not the same and can be affected by die shape and size, CPU used, how big the OC / voltage is and of course case cooling determines how much > than ambient the case interior is. The DH-15 and the Cryorig do beat the H100i despite the H100i's huge noise and rpm (2700) ... I have seen the other 3 come close but those 2 top it and it wasn't that close (see above HTL pics).
> 
> My usual advice is:
> 
> With $60 to spend, the Phanteks PH-TC14PE ... Nothing wrong with the Silver Arrow and DH-14 but they usually cost $75 or more and ain't as perty.
> 
> With $90 to spend, I'd take the DH-15 over the Cryorig.... yeah the Cryo wins most reviews by a degree bit at the cost of 5 dbA and I'd rather have less noise than 1C cooler temps.
> 
> With $120 to spend, well I simply have nothing to recommend
> 
> With $150 to spend, the Swiftech H240-X
> 
> I do like that the Phanteks comes with a PWM adapter, that does essentially the same thing as the hub (PWM => 3 pin fan wise) and gives a decent speed range from 600 to 1250 rpm.
> There's a dye thread on here .... scroll to bottom of 1st link
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1244335/sleeving-custom-color-dye/120
> http://www.overclock.net/t/551389/keyboard-dye-customization-guide
> 
> And I have a pic on how to get the fan blades out if ya need.


How about this one for 120$? or it may be pushing the budget on 120$


----------



## Evoly

I do like that the Phanteks comes with a PWM adapter, that does essentially the same thing as the hub (PWM => 3 pin fan wise) and gives a decent speed range from 600 to 1250 rpm.
There's a dye thread on here .... scroll to bottom of 1st link

http://www.overclock.net/t/1244335/sleeving-custom-color-dye/120
http://www.overclock.net/t/551389/keyboard-dye-customization-guide

And I have a pic on how to get the fan blades out if ya need.[/quote]

Ah no, thanks. I guess with my current amount of money I will spend on my money I'm at a cap. Not that a can of paint would cost much but to taking off the color, ground it and then color it while there is a chance that I mess up some fans and have to buy new one is a bit to much for me. My last mod will maybe be something like the acrylic window thingy but thats something I'll know as soon as my Primo arives and I can see how the default window looks like. Thanks for your reply


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wjturner78*
> 
> I have the same psu I changed out the fan to a 140mm the evga fan isnt a 140 but if you use rubber fan mounts it will fit no problem, the difference was night and day the evga fan was louder than my d5 pump now my primo is dead silent.


What fan and ya have a pic ?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> How about this one for 120$? or it may be pushing the budget on 120$


It's OK, but for half the performance of the H240_X, I kinds feel it should cost just a bit more than half as much .... and I expect the Phanteks at $60 would beat it.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Evoly*
> 
> Ah no, thanks. I guess with my current amount of money I will spend on my money I'm at a cap. Not that a can of paint would cost much but to taking off the color, ground it and then color it while there is a chance that I mess up some fans and have to buy new one is a bit to much for me. My last mod will maybe be something like the acrylic window thingy but thats something I'll know as soon as my Primo arives and I can see how the default window looks like. Thanks for your reply


Paint is not recommended as it unbalances the fan....the dye runs about $2.50 - $4.00. You don't "take off" the color as that's the color of the plastic.... the dye just stains it.


----------



## wjturner78

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> What fan and ya have a pic ?
> It's OK, but for half the performance of the H240_X, I kinds feel it should cost just a bit more than half as much .... and I expect the Phanteks at $60 would beat it.



Any 140mm fan will work I had a noctua In at first then swapped it to the same fans as my build


----------



## Trestles126

found to battery to my better camera today and shot some photos with the tripod

phanteks luxe was a nice case kinda sad to see it go but the caselabs s8 will be way cooler!pulling it apart in a week or two when i get my new case
will be for sale locally the case that is
http://s12.photobucket.com/user/trestles126/media/Untitled.png.html
[/URL]http://s12.photobucket.com/user/trestles126/media/2015.png.htmlhttp://s12.photobucket.com/user/trestles126/media/20152.png.html


----------



## pshootr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> How about this one for 120$? or it may be pushing the budget on 120$


May want to have a look at this review from an OCN member.

http://www.overclock.net/products/lepa-liquid-cooler-cooling-lpwac240-hf/reviews/7104


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pshootr*
> 
> May want to have a look at this review from an OCN member.
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/products/lepa-liquid-cooler-cooling-lpwac240-hf/reviews/7104


It was more meant as kind of a joke since he only recommended the H240x







but I'll take a look at the review as the thread I have been working on for qho knows how long revolves all around AIO/CLC units


----------



## MrGrievous

Almost done







but I'm liking the results


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> I have the PH-TC14-PE, Thermalright Silver Arrow and Noctua DH-14 and would agree w/ most reviewers that that's the order they finish in. The problem with comparing reviews from different sites is the rigs are not the same and can be affected by die shape and size, CPU used, how big the OC / voltage is and of course case cooling determines how much > than ambient the case interior is. The DH-15 and the Cryorig do beat the H100i despite the H100i's huge noise and rpm (2700) ... I have seen the other 3 come close but those 2 top it and it wasn't that close (see above HTL pics).
> 
> My usual advice is:
> 
> With $60 to spend, the Phanteks PH-TC14PE ... Nothing wrong with the Silver Arrow and DH-14 but they usually cost $75 or more and ain't as perty.
> 
> With $90 to spend, I'd take the DH-15 over the Cryorig.... yeah the Cryo wins most reviews by a degree bit at the cost of 5 dbA and I'd rather have less noise than 1C cooler temps.
> 
> With $120 to spend, well I simply have nothing to recommend
> 
> With $150 to spend, the Swiftech H240-X


First generation PH-TC14PE came with variable voltage F140TS fans and adapter, but now they have F140HP PWM fans.

NH-D15 is only better than NH-D15 because of higher flow fans .. and it's extreme width limits 1st PCIe socket access on many motherboards.

There are so many coolers cooling within a couple degrees of each other it's near impossible to pick the top 3 or 5, and a single king of the hill is photo-finish. We need to keep in mind there is at least a +/-1c margin of error under the best of testing conditions .. and this can easily be +/-3c or +/-5c the with the testing procedures & standards many use.

Cooler reviews without monitoring the cooler intake air temperature are not cooler reviews. They are system reviews .. because the cooler intake air temp is different with different coolers and even changes with fan speed change .. although a good case with optimized airflow has much closer cooler intake air temps.

Swiftech H240-X is king of the AIO hill.








With H220-X close behind.
H140-X is not as good, but with half the radiator area of H240-X it does very well .. of course more radiator and water blocks can be added to system if needed.









How do you remove the fans from Phanteks housings? If you can give a basic tutorial I'll put in in opening post.







Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> How about this one for 120$? or it may be pushing the budget on 120$


Unless you are limited to a single 140mm vent, go with the H220-X or H240-X. Performance increases with radiator size.


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrGrievous*
> 
> Almost done
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> but I'm liking the results


Really like that reservior and po combo I see it a lot who makes it?


----------



## WHIMington

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Evoly*
> 
> Ah thanks for clearing that out. Will i have clearance for push pull if I place 1x 140 bottom rear and 1x in the first 140mm bottom slot or am I forced to use the secound one? - I'll need 3 PCIe spaced since I'll also put a Arctic backplate on my Titan's to make them perform even better. Overall I was a bit screwed to let them run 8x PCIe 3.0 but I guess it won't make any difference in fps. At least the possible overclock will give me way more back than running both in the 16x places. I'm just sad that the first 16x slot on the Rampage 5 is the 1. slot. :/.
> 
> But since the onboard solution seems to be able to support 250 Ohm I won't need my Xonar Phoebus anymore so I can use all the PCI/e lanes for the GPU's. As I allready mentioned, thanks a heck of a lot for your help! And, also thanks for don't try to convince me to a custom loop. 90% of the people I asked for advices with my G10 mod went crazy about the fact that I don't go for a custom loop >.<.


You can place your PCIE 1X card onto any PCIE slot, as long as you have 1 PCIE channel it will work)

With that said, all I want to point out is a good sound card + an O2 amp is always going to be better then onboard sound.


----------



## Ryankirsch13

Just received my Enthoo Luxe and of course went all "kid in a candy store" and immediately tore apart my PC and rebuilt it in the Luxe... Wowww! I went from a Corsair 200r with cooler master fans to this and I can hardly hear the fans in this case! I've realized to front 200mm fan is, for the most part, useless.. I was going to get two NF-A14 FLX fans from noctua to run at 7v for front intakes. Butttt... The included PH140SP fans are awesome in my opinion. Should I just get two more of these? Or if someone has a suggestion. The phanteks are about $15 each.. The noctuas are maybe 10 bucks more each. Any thoughts?


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ryankirsch13*
> 
> Just received my Enthoo Luxe and of course went all "kid in a candy store" and immediately tore apart my PC and rebuilt it in the Luxe... Wowww! I went from a Corsair 200r with cooler master fans to this and I can hardly hear the fans in this case! I've realized to front 200mm fan is, for the most part, useless.. I was going to get two NF-A14 FLX fans from noctua to run at 7v for front intakes. Butttt... The included PH140SP fans are awesome in my opinion. Should I just get two more of these? Or if someone has a suggestion. The phanteks are about $15 each.. The noctuas are maybe 10 bucks more each. Any thoughts?


looks like you've got it figured out pretty well. I went for two Phanteks 140SP fans in front. I run them at 888 rpm and they move enough air (probably because my hard drive cages are out) and are dead silent.


----------



## MrPatate

Anyone?!?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrPatate*
> 
> Can the Phantek LED strip be cut at specific length like other LED strip or it cannot?


----------



## Ryankirsch13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PureBlackFire*
> 
> looks like you've got it figured out pretty well. I went for two Phanteks 140SP fans in front. I run them at 888 rpm and they move enough air (probably because my hard drive cages are out) and are dead silent.


Thanks for the good thoughts! I immediately went into the bios and set the fans for 60°c on the CPU and they seem to be at 800rpm that's with the hub connected to CPU fan1 which is my only true pwm header unless the cha fan is true pwm I did leave the bottom HDD cage in however but my temps are fine


----------



## SLK




----------



## Marucins

I have a small problem with *Phanteks Enthoo Mini XL*

Is there a possibility of mounting Phanteks 3.5" HDD Bracket the side wall of the logo Phanteks? (is there a place for 2 SSDs)

I know that I can mount a 3.5" on the other side but I need to put two 3,5" drives - keeping the 5.25" for optical drive and remove two baskets on drives to make room for the radiator.


----------



## Mark011

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Marucins*
> 
> I have a small problem with *Phanteks Enthoo Mini XL*
> 
> Is there a possibility of mounting Phanteks 3.5" HDD Bracket the side wall of the logo Phanteks? (is there a place for 2 SSDs)
> 
> I know that I can mount a 3.5" on the other side but I need to put two 3,5" drives - keeping the 5.25" for optical drive and remove two baskets on drives to make room for the radiator.


I think yes, with single ssd bracket


----------



## taem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> I'll look for the instructions but it's rather simple.... in fact you might try this. My son just finished his build in the Luxe with 8.1 ... installed the Gigabyte equivalent of AiSuite and set up the fans.... then he wiped the HD and installed Win 7 .... fan control still worked. But with the AiSuite, I think one option is just install it, set up the fans, and then just remove AiSuite from the start yo folder. Then it just sits on ya HD doing nothing unless ya want it to.
> 
> According to Asus, the headers are designed for 1 amp constant draw. I ran 8 fans off the header (1.12 amps) w/ no issue for about 3 weeks.....till I got the 2nd hub. The headers must allow for a little leeway for the "inrush current" at startup. Also, what rpm do your fans run at ? Mine never break 850 rpm under stress testing. As to why not run w/ the cable connected.... if ya control is DC voltage, your fans will always be 12v.


Thanks for that, I did find a thread that gives instructions on some of the processes to kill so you can run Fan Xpert 3 but not have AI Suite active. Been too lazy to try it out, since I finally got Q Fan to work, after a fashion.

Here's the odd thing about Q Fan and the Phanteks hub on pwm mode. Everytime you run the fan tuner, it returns a different result from the hub. It's a huge swing -- 8% minimum, to 77% min, to 40% min, to 23% min. And the %s mean little -- for example with a minimum of 8% fan duty, the rpm is actually around 600. The Q Fan tuner simply does not know what to do with that hub. It has no problems with the Swiftech pwm splitter. Obviously Fan Xpert's tuner works since you're using it to get as low as 350rpm which iirc is your idle speed. But evidently Q Fan's tuner is completely different.

After several runs I did get a result that allows me to run the Primo stock fans at 600rpm, at which point it's effectively silent, all I can hear is the pump, so I just left it at that. So my rad fans idle at 600rpm and spin up to around 900 when coolant reaches 40c, which so far only happens in Total War Shogun 2.

Another oddity about the Phanteks hub. If I don't plug in the molex, none of the fans spin at all. So, given that the minimum rpm I am getting in PWM mode is 600, I could run it in DC mode, except as you point out, if I am using the molex, DC mode will run at full speed.

But all that aside, I have fan curves I'm ok with so I guess that's that.

Btw the rest of my fans are Phanteks 140MPs. These are great fans. Can't speak to the performance since my system is silence oriented, but they are quiet and have great build quality.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> Unfortunately the case is not "Dead Silent" whereas my Primo build w/ 15 fans is. While the Seasonic X-1250 is super quiet, the EVGA G2 1000 fan is the only thing you can hear in the Luxe ;( ..... if not for the shroud, I wuda been able to talk him into the Seasonic 1050 Snow


I'm surprised your Primo is "dead silent." My air cooled Define R4 was truly dead silent at idle. My Primo is not. I can hear the D5 vario pump. It's pretty quiet and you have to be just a few feet away to hear it, but when I sit at my desk where the case is, I can hear it even at setting 2. If I didn't have that pump, I'm pretty sure I'd be able to hear the fans at 600rpm. The EVGA G2 1000 is a pretty loud psu imho. I spent extra for the P2 for that reason. And the P2 isn't renowned for quiet operation either once you break 65-70% load.

Quote:


> I did measure it but I have long since forgotten. On the Primo build, lowest rpm obtained by auto tuning via FanXpert was 321 rpm. On the Luxe with Gugabyte's equivalent, best it could do on same fans was 477 .... however, I did get them lower manually....IIRC, 26% PWM was what i set it at which was a safe margin above minimum... the 200m low setting was 22 rpm.


Interesting thing about the F140SP fans, all 5 stock fans that came with mine, will not start up at 7v. I tried with both the Noctua ULNA cable and one of those molex power to 5v-7v-12v fan header adapters. 7v won't cut it. The Noctua LNA, which is 9v I believe, does work. I'm really surprised by this result. I wonder if my fans are faulty. Because with the fans plugged into a header in DC mode, you can get down to below what you'd think is 7v power. But the adapter cables are not working for me.


----------



## MrGrievous

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Really like that reservior and po combo I see it a lot who makes it?


The pump top and reservoir are from EKWB; the X3 series plus I bought a new top for the res as well that became the bottom. They are just the two separate pieces that I then used this bitspower fitting to connect together. Its not a All in one pump top combo you can buy.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Interesting thing about the F140SP fans, all 5 stock fans that came with mine, will not start up at 7v. I tried with both the Noctua ULNA cable and one of those molex power to 5v-7v-12v fan header adapters. 7v won't cut it. The Noctua LNA, which is 9v I believe, does work. I'm really surprised by this result. I wonder if my fans are faulty. Because with the fans plugged into a header in DC mode, you can get down to below what you'd think is 7v power. But the adapter cables are not working for me.


Something is definitely wrong. All of the Phanteks PH-F140SPs I have start well below 3V. We've been through this before on this thread ...
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> All of mine start spinning well below 3v and under 600rpm and have a full range of control up through 1250rpm at 12v.


Proof:


Quote:


> Several others have reported the same with their fans above. Everyone but you. Something you have is broken, and it's probably not the fans but whatever you were trying to control them with.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *47 Knucklehead*
> 
> If a picture is worth a thousand words, then a video at 30 frames a second should be worth a whole lot more.
> 
> Here is a quick and dirty video I just shot showing my Aquaero 6XT with Aquasuite controlling a Phantek PH-F140SP LED, a Phantek PH-F140SP, and a Cougar CF-V12H and varying the RPMs from 468 to 1200, all via altering the voltage from about 4.1V to 11.6V.


now that I think of it, the issue you are having is probably that "_one of those molex power to 5v-7v-12v fan header adapters_" you are using because you don't really have a true 7V. The molex feeding it has 4 wires, a 12v and a 5v and a ground for each. What it's doing for the supposed 7v is a hack that's is supplying it with the 12v side for power and the 5v as a ground for a difference of 7v, but there are reasons that doesn't always work, and I've seen it argued as a possible reason for killing a PSU before. Many posts have been made in these forums trying to explain why it's not a reliable or even advisable way to get 7v, for example ...
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jvjessen*
> 
> This little trick to get a 7V supply will not always work. The reason is that the 5V supply is only capable of sourcing current, it cannot sink current. So if you do not have sufficient load on the +5V it will not work.
> 
> Most newer builds will not have much load on the +5V, e.g. using only SSD or low power HDDs. You can try add a 12V/20W car light bulb or maybe a 4.7 Ohm power resistor as load on the +5V and see if that gives you a stable 7V.
> 
> Also many higher end PSUs with built in monitoring will not be happy at all when you try to sink current on the +5V.


----------



## pshootr

Agreed, the fans are not the issue. And 7 volts is more than enough to start them.


----------



## Jacklim

Anybody has an idea where can I buy Enthoo Luxe?
Havent found a website that ships to my country.
I am willing to pay for the shipping fee.
Thanks,
Jack.


----------



## pshootr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jacklim*
> 
> Anybody has an idea where can I buy Enthoo Luxe?
> Havent found a website that ships to my country.
> I am willing to pay for the shipping fee.
> Thanks,
> Jack.


Someone may be able to help you if you tell us where you live.


----------



## Lshuman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jacklim*
> 
> Anybody has an idea where can I buy Enthoo Luxe?
> Havent found a website that ships to my country.
> I am willing to pay for the shipping fee.
> Thanks,
> Jack.


Try Amazon


----------



## Jacklim

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lshuman*
> 
> Try Amazon


Already did. Amazon,newegg,superbiiz,frys,micro,
No luck


----------



## Lshuman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jacklim*
> 
> Already did. Amazon,newegg,superbiiz,frys,micro,
> No luck


Where are you located?

Newegg have the Luxe.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811854006


----------



## sav4

PC case gear have them to .
You need to specify what country u live in


----------



## Jacklim

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lshuman*
> 
> Where are you located?
> 
> Newegg have the Luxe.
> 
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811854006


I live in Myanmar(Burma). Vendors rarely ship to my area.
FYI, Myanmar is near Thailand.


----------



## MrPatate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jacklim*
> 
> I live in Myanmar(Burma). Vendors rarely ship to my area.
> FYI, Myanmar is near Thailand.


Your best bet is to contact Phantek directly for retailers in your area.


----------



## pcrevolution

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jacklim*
> 
> I live in Myanmar(Burma). Vendors rarely ship to my area.
> FYI, Myanmar is near Thailand.


Try ordering from Singapore.

http://www.mynextcomonline.com/phanteks-enthoo-luxe/

Let me know if you need help.

I can try to arrange something for you.


----------



## OneSeeker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pcrevolution*
> 
> Try ordering from Singapore.
> 
> http://www.mynextcomonline.com/phanteks-enthoo-luxe/
> 
> Let me know if you need help.
> 
> I can try to arrange something for you.


have phantek led strip 2m?


----------



## MrPatate

I want to make a Phantek only air cooled case (fan and cpu cooler), I'm really impressed by the build quality of my Luxe and heard good things about their fan to. I didn't realized Phantek had so many different 140mm models (TS, SP, HP, MP, XP). For the life of me I can't tell the difference between each. Sadly I can't find reviews for all of them made by the same website (to have reliable comparison between each other). I know a lot of you guys have bought Phantek fans for your case. So if you could give me your satisfaction/cooling result on the models you chose or if someone knows the difference between them all I'd be really appreciated.

I need "normal" fans for most of the case and high pressure for the front HDD bays, it's full so there's a lot of restriction (I will set it to a push-pull with 140mm outside and 120mm inside). Obviously I want them to be as quiet as possible.

Also, I haven't checked them yet but are Phantek cpu cooler generally good or should I avoid them and choose another brand?


----------



## garethjwilliams

hi guys i am torn between 2 cases its either the enthoo primo or the nzxt phantom 820, does anyone know if the enthoo primo can support 2 graphics cards as all the builds i have looked at the last 2 days have only one graphics cards installed its stressing me out at the moment, any help will be appreciated


----------



## MrPatate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *garethjwilliams*
> 
> hi guys i am torn between 2 cases its either the enthoo primo or the nzxt phantom 820, does anyone know if the enthoo primo can support 2 graphics cards as all the builds i have looked at the last 2 days have only one graphics cards installed its stressing me out at the moment, any help will be appreciated


Of course it can! Probably 3 or 4 also. If you search a bit, you'll find a lot of SLI build in this thread.

From an HardOCP review: "Thanks to the expansive interior and eight the expansion slots, there should be no problems installing 3-Way SLI and Tri-Fire set-ups in this chassis. "
http://www.hardocp.com/article/2014/03/11/phanteks_enthoo_primo_ultimate_chassis_review/4

It's a mater of taste, but IMO the Primo looks a LOT better than those Phantom case. More classy, less toy like.


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *garethjwilliams*
> 
> hi guys i am torn between 2 cases its either the enthoo primo or the nzxt phantom 820, does anyone know if the enthoo primo can support 2 graphics cards as all the builds i have looked at the last 2 days have only one graphics cards installed its stressing me out at the moment, any help will be appreciated


both cases support up to 4 gpus.


----------



## pcrevolution

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneSeeker*
> 
> have phantek led strip 2m?


Do you mean this?

http://www.phanteks.com/PH-LEDKT.html

Where are you located at?


----------



## Avenged666

Hi everyone,

Heres my Phanteks Enthoo Luxe E22 Acrylic tube build video. Just a short look at the process and finished build. Both Intel and Corsair have loved it, hope you guys do too. Any questions feel free to ask









@IntelGaming on Twitter about my build:

__ https://twitter.com/i/web/status/582602454186917889%5B%2FURL
DSC00016.JPG 5033k .JPG file


DSC00056.JPG 4785k .JPG file


DSC00061.JPG 4530k .JPG file


DSC00089.JPG 4933k .JPG file


DSC00095.JPG 3615k .JPG file


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Avenged666*
> 
> Hi everyone,
> 
> Heres my Phanteks Enthoo Luxe E22 Acrylic tube build video. Just a short look at the process and finished build. Both Intel and Corsair have loved it, hope you guys do too. Any questions feel free to ask
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Includes an XEK X-RES 250 https://www.youtube.com/edit?o=U&video_id=fyvwjDcega4


link no work.









found:


----------



## Avenged666

Yepp Sorry and thanks for pointing it out. I havefixed it now


----------



## P1nPo1nt

My build using Mayhems Tharsis Red Aurora 2 is complete







Built the system using RECOMMENDED config of two pass rad, high flow blocks with restriction plate in the CPU block removed

Pics:


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
















Some cable management


----------



## garethjwilliams

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PureBlackFire*
> 
> both cases support up to 4 gpus.


Thanks for the reply guys Instead of me having to chop up a new case, I have decided to have a 5.25 reservoir find picture attached



And I have gone with the phanteks enthoo primo black


----------



## pcrevolution

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *P1nPo1nt*
> 
> My build using Mayhems Tharsis Red Aurora 2 is complete
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Built the system using RECOMMENDED config of two pass rad, high flow blocks with restriction plate in the CPU block removed
> 
> Pics:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some cable management


Nice!!























Are you using a DDC pump?


----------



## garethjwilliams

What's the difference between ddc and d5 and what would you recommend, first ever water build so I am open to any advice


----------



## 47 Knucklehead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *garethjwilliams*
> 
> What's the difference between ddc and d5 and what would you recommend, first ever water build so I am open to any advice


The biggest differences are size and how the pumps are cooled.

DDCs are typically smaller pumps and are cooled by air/heat sink.
D5 are slightly larger and are cooled by the water they pump.

Both methods have their pros and cons.

DDCs are better if you have very limited space.

If you want to start a pump war, then you could throw in various other things, like how many consider DDC's to be louder than a D5.
Early DDC's had more head pressure, but recently that advantage has vanished. D5 have a much higher flow capability.

Personally, I use D5's for just about all my builds now.


----------



## garethjwilliams

I just read and had a look on the ddc's they are quite loud, I will stick with the d5 as that's what's supposed to go in the res I got, not here to start a war just after some quality information as what to use, yes it's good to hear what people use so it's all good, thanks for replying though


----------



## pcrevolution

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *garethjwilliams*
> 
> I just read and had a look on the ddc's they are quite loud, I will stick with the d5 as that's what's supposed to go in the res I got, not here to start a war just after some quality information as what to use, yes it's good to hear what people use so it's all good, thanks for replying though


If you are using the vario model, you can use setting 5 for bleeding air.

But daily use at setting 2-3 yields a respectable 600LPH as well.


----------



## garethjwilliams

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pcrevolution*
> 
> If you are using the vario model, you can use setting 5 for bleeding air.
> 
> But daily use at setting 2-3 yields a respectable 600LPH as well.


this is the one i am buying is this the Vario model ??


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *garethjwilliams*
> 
> this is the one i am buying is this the Vario model ??


Yes, the D5 pump with the 5 point speed control knob is the Vario model.

Do note that in your pic the pump is set to speed '5', not '2'. If you look closely at the knob there is an arrow on it on the other end of that slot. Unfortunately many people have looked at the slot instead, thinking their pump is on '2' and go to turn it up and 'snap' they break the fragile speed control knob on their pump. Fortunately a replacement knob can be found for pretty cheap, but still it's an issue best avoided in the first place.


----------



## OneSeeker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pcrevolution*
> 
> Do you mean this?
> 
> http://www.phanteks.com/PH-LEDKT.html
> 
> Where are you located at?


Yea, 2m of that strip
Malaysia


----------



## garethjwilliams

thanks guys i dont know where i would be without all this awesome information, if i was to do a sketch plan of my computer where the rads are going ect ect can you advise me as to where i should be going with my tubing ?


----------



## pcrevolution

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneSeeker*
> 
> Yea, 2m of that strip
> Malaysia


You have PM!


----------



## dougp

Anyone else order a EVOLV ITX? I should be getting mine this week.


----------



## pcrevolution

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dougp*
> 
> Anyone else order a EVOLV ITX? I should be getting mine this week.


Yeah! I'm using it right now.

Going to work on a custom loop. Also in the process of sleeving the cables.


----------



## dougp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pcrevolution*
> 
> Yeah! I'm using it right now.
> 
> Going to work on a custom loop. Also in the process of sleeving the cables.


I'll be putting in a full loop - ordered the pump mount as well, and an NZXT Grid+ (I love software-based fan control, since the fan control on my Z77E-ITX sucks.)


----------



## pcrevolution

Nice!









Eh? But the UEFI DC Fan control for my Z97e-ITX seems pretty good though.

Although I'm limited to 1.0Amps from the fan header on the motherboard.


----------



## dougp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pcrevolution*
> 
> Nice!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Eh? But the UEFI DC Fan control for my Z97e-ITX seems pretty good though.
> 
> Although I'm limited to 1.0Amps from the fan header on the motherboard.


The BIOS doesn't seem to do crap for remember fan settings, or even actual control. I can use SpeedFan, but my computer sounds like it's going to fall off the desk until it loads.


----------



## akira749

A new build for me! This time with a nice Black Enthoo Luxe with a few mods









Feel free to follow : Build Log


----------



## pcrevolution

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dougp*
> 
> The BIOS doesn't seem to do crap for remember fan settings, or even actual control. I can use SpeedFan, but my computer sounds like it's going to fall off the desk until it loads.


Could be an issue with the Z77E-ITX.

But the Z97E-ITX DC control works flawlessly.

I can set a fan curve in increments of 1 degC and down to 1% fan speed increments.


----------



## mainBORED

Got some sleeved extensions, while I had everything unplugged I took it outside to clean off some dust and snapped a picture.



Some more pictures here.


http://imgur.com/PPwJK


----------



## dougp

Very clean, but I have to admit, I am not a fan of the PSU cutout. I'll have to come up with something to fill that space.


----------



## pcrevolution

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mainBORED*
> 
> Got some sleeved extensions, while I had everything unplugged I took it outside to clean off some dust and snapped a picture.
> 
> 
> 
> Some more pictures here.
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/PPwJK


Looking great!!! Though I always felt branded extensions are hard to train because the wires are of the same length, making them harder to bend.

My only complaint with the evolv mATX is the half window and USB placement. Otherwise I would have went m-ATX already!


----------



## P1nPo1nt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pcrevolution*
> 
> Nice!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Are you using a DDC pump?


Swifttech MCP 355x PWM


----------



## Dorito Bandit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mainBORED*
> 
> Got some sleeved extensions, while I had everything unplugged I took it outside to clean off some dust and snapped a picture.
> 
> 
> 
> Some more pictures here.
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/PPwJK


Very nice build, bud! It's beautiful!







Has that Stormtrooper guarding the inside of your case had to kill anyone yet?


----------



## wjturner78

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mainBORED*
> 
> Got some sleeved extensions, while I had everything unplugged I took it outside to clean off some dust and snapped a picture.
> 
> 
> 
> Some more pictures here.
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/PPwJK


Maybe you could paint your psu to match the panel creating a seamless look. I just don't like the idea of a window to the psu, but the build looks fantastic


----------



## Dorito Bandit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dougp*
> 
> Very clean, but I have to admit, I am not a fan of the PSU cutout. I'll have to come up with something to fill that space.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wjturner78*
> 
> Maybe you could paint your psu to match the panel creating a seamless look. I just don't like the idea of a window to the psu, but the build looks fantastic


Really? I honestly think it looks fine, myself. Now would it look better hidden? Maybe so, but I really don't mind seeing the PSU. The motherboard and other components are being seen (shown off). Why not show off the PSU? It needs some love too!


----------



## wjturner78

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dorito Bandit*
> 
> Really? I honestly think it looks fine, myself. Now would it look better hidden? Maybe so, but I really don't mind seeing the PSU. The motherboard and other components are being seen (shown off). Why not show off the PSU? It needs some love too!


lol yes I guess It could do with some love but if it were me it would loving it in secret..... I dunno I just feel like it's jumping out at you and grabbing your eye before you notice the mobo and res and etc... if it were mine (and my next build is an evolve) I'd have something covering it we all know how I love plexi covers.....


----------



## wjturner78

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mainBORED*
> 
> Got some sleeved extensions, while I had everything unplugged I took it outside to clean off some dust and snapped a picture.
> 
> 
> 
> Some more pictures here.
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/PPwJK


how is that y fitting on the rad not leaking fluid?


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wjturner78*
> 
> how is that y fitting on the rad not leaking fluid?


Probably because it's not a 'y fitting'. Looks like a 45 degree EK fitting.

http://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-csq-adapter-45-g1-4-nickel.html



edit: Looks like another one attached to the bottom of the GPU also.


----------



## wjturner78

Good eye after looking at the gpu I do believe you are right, I knew it couldn't be a y or fluid wouldn't be in the system.....


----------



## cr1

I have to replace my Antec 900, it's served me well, but getting a little dated, not tool-less, no cable-management...

I like the Phanteks PH-ES614P_BK , but (2) un-answered questions are holding me back-

1) It's not clear from reading the specs; does installing (2) 120mm/140mm fans in 'front' '_replace'_ the front 200mm fan, or are they in addition to the front 200mm fan?

2) Will a Thermalright Silver Arrow IB-E Extreme fit?


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cr1*
> 
> I have to replace my Antec 900, it's served me well, but getting a little dated, not tool-less, no cable-management...
> 
> I like the Phanteks PH-ES614P_BK , but (2) un-answered questions are holding me back-
> 
> 1) It's not clear from reading the specs; does installing (2) 120mm/140mm fans in 'front' '_replace'_ the front 200mm fan, or are they in addition to the front 200mm fan?
> 
> 2) Will a Thermalright Silver Arrow IB-E Extreme fit?


you'll have to replace the 200mm fan and imo that's a great idea. the Silver Arrow IBE will fit easily in the case.


----------



## cr1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PureBlackFire*
> 
> you'll have to replace the 200mm fan and imo that's a great idea. the Silver Arrow IBE will fit easily in the case.


Thanks!

+Rep


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cr1*
> 
> I have to replace my Antec 900, it's served me well, but getting a little dated, not tool-less, no cable-management...
> 
> I like the Phanteks PH-ES614P_BK , but (2) un-answered questions are holding me back-
> 
> 1) It's not clear from reading the specs; does installing (2) 120mm/140mm fans in 'front' '_replace'_ the front 200mm fan, or are they in addition to the front 200mm fan?
> 
> 2) Will a Thermalright Silver Arrow IB-E Extreme fit?


I'm hoping to get a Luxe myself. I will either cut the front panel to allow full airflow to the 200mm fan or replace them with 2x F140SP fans.








Cut out purple either side of fan to like this. Wish there was a removable mounting plate like this


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> I'm hoping to get a Luxe myself. I will either cut the front panel to allow full airflow to the 200mm fan or replace them with 2x F140SP fans.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cut out purple either side of fan to like this. Wish there was a removable mounting plate like this


my pro that plate is removable...I'm pretty sure...ill check when I get home


----------



## sav4

Just wondering are most of u using the 1 or 2metre led strips on the luxe ?


----------



## OneSeeker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sav4*
> 
> Just wondering are most of u using the 1 or 2metre led strips on the luxe ?


2m led strips better


----------



## colinreay

Hey, I was looking at the luxe and have gotten obsessed! I was wondering if anyone has plasti-dipped their case. I am inclined to get the white luxe and spray the outside matte black, excluding the front grill, 5.25 covers, and the top grill. I think I would probably also take off the front grill cover and replace in with some mnpctech grill, ideas?


----------



## wjturner78

Good news everybody, my build has picked up a couple of sponsors and i finally have a decent camera to take less horrible pics with!


----------



## Dorito Bandit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wjturner78*
> 
> Good news everybody, my build has picked up a couple of sponsors and i finally have a decent camera to take less horrible pics with!


Awesome and congrats!


----------



## Mark011

Phanteks will send me an EVOLV ITX case, can't wait to mod this little beast


----------



## wjturner78

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mark011*
> 
> Phanteks will send me an EVOLV ITX case, can't wait to mod this little beast


How funny that was going to be my next build. i may do a phanteks minixl instead so we are not on the same course twice in a row! i would prefer to do similar builds with someone considerably less gifted than yourself so mine dont look so bad! (jk) !









Im sure your next build will be just as amazing as your last one was!


----------



## wjturner78

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dorito Bandit*
> 
> Awesome and congrats!


Thanks!


----------



## MrPatate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cr1*
> 
> I have to replace my Antec 900, it's served me well, but getting a little dated, not tool-less, no cable-management...
> 
> I like the Phanteks PH-ES614P_BK , but (2) un-answered questions are holding me back-
> 
> 1) It's not clear from reading the specs; does installing (2) 120mm/140mm fans in 'front' '_replace'_ the front 200mm fan, or are they in addition to the front 200mm fan?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PureBlackFire*
> 
> you'll have to replace the 200mm fan and imo that's a great idea. the Silver Arrow IBE will fit easily in the case.


That's not entirely true, you can keep the 200mm fan and add 2 120mm fan inside on the HDD bay. But yes you'll have better result changing the 200mm with 2 140mm. That's what I'll do since my bays are full and there's a lot of air restriction.


----------



## MrPatate

Anyone did tests for the best air flow setup in a Pro/Luxe? I'd like to have all intake except the rear one to create positive pressure, but it's a bit counter intuitive to have the top ones as intake instead of exhaust.


----------



## colinreay

*Possible custom paint idea for the luxe (quick photoshop), does anyone happen to know which colors look really good with the luxe/ good paint applications?*


----------



## MrPatate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *colinreay*
> 
> *Possible custom paint idea for the luxe (quick photoshop), does anyone happen to know which colors look really good with the luxe/ good paint applications?*


Interesting idea, but if you do not yet own the case, I'd do that but opposite, get a white one and paint matte black.


----------



## Mark011

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wjturner78*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mark011*
> 
> Phanteks will send me an EVOLV ITX case, can't wait to mod this little beast
> 
> 
> 
> How funny that was going to be my next build. i may do a phanteks minixl instead so we are not on the same course twice in a row! i would prefer to do similar builds with someone considerably less gifted than yourself so mine dont look so bad! (jk) !
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Im sure your next build will be just as amazing as your last one was!
Click to expand...

lol thanks, a minixl build would be nice to see too


----------



## sav4

Yay my luxe turned up today now to swap all my stuff over .


----------



## makn

The Enthoo EVOLV ATX was first said to be released in March. Is it May now? Havent heard anything since CES back in January..


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wjturner78*
> 
> Good news everybody, my build has picked up a couple of sponsors and i finally have a decent camera to take less horrible pics with!


If I have learned anything in the WC Club Pics Thread its that proper lighting is even more important than camera quality/expense in terms of end result. This includes post-processing software tools like Adobe Lightroom.


----------



## jassilamba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> If I have learned anything in the WC Club Pics Thread its that proper lighting is even more important than camera quality/expense in terms of end result. This includes post-processing software tools like Adobe Lightroom.


Very true, camera does not matter. I'm no way an expert in photography, but lighting is the key. Having the correct metering mode helps a lot. PS or LightRoom can only help you so much.


----------



## wjturner78

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mark011*
> 
> lol thanks, a minixl build would be nice to see too


maybe ill do the evolv atx, that way i could wait until your about 90% done and use some of your better mods in my build! (jk i joke, i joke)








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> If I have learned anything in the WC Club Pics Thread its that proper lighting is even more important than camera quality/expense in terms of end result. This includes post-processing software tools like Adobe Lightroom.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jassilamba*
> 
> Very true, camera does not matter. I'm no way an expert in photography, but lighting is the key. Having the correct metering mode helps a lot. PS or LightRoom can only help you so much.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> If I have learned anything in the WC Club Pics Thread its that proper lighting is even more important than camera quality/expense in terms of end result. This includes post-processing software tools like Adobe Lightroom.


i think you guys are 100% correct about this both of these photos were taken with my phone (16mp) one looks incredible the other not so much.


Snef told me that his trick is to use a tripod and his computer screen with an all white desktop.....
i am so not artistic in any way shape or form and photography is certainly art
i need to rapidly and drastically improve my camera skills if i want to play in the sponsorship arena


----------



## jassilamba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wjturner78*
> 
> maybe ill do the evolv atx, that way i could wait until your about 90% done and use some of your better mods in my build! (jk i joke, i joke)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i think you guys are 100% correct about this both of these photos were taken with my phone (16mp) one looks incredible the other not so much.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Snef told me that his trick is to use a tripod and his computer screen with an all white desktop.....
> i am so not artistic in any way shape or form and photography is certainly art
> i need to rapidly and drastically improve my camera skills if i want to play in the sponsorship arena


Should have said, tripod is a must. Also use the delay capture feature on your camera. Almost all have like a 2 second timer on them. Put your camera on the tripod, frame your shot, make sure you have the timer set, click button, and enjoy results.

A lot of new cameras have the ability to take a picture using a smartphone/tablet or your PC. Also on some cameras (mostly SLRs) you can add in a shutter remote. The reason you want to do all that is to avoid any kind of vibration or shakes.

Example (same lighting conditions in both):

Here is a cell phone photo of my Evolv ITX:



And here is one taken with a DSLR:


----------



## wjturner78

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jassilamba*
> 
> Should have said, tripod is a must. Also use the delay capture feature on your camera. Almost all have like a 2 second timer on them. Put your camera on the tripod, frame your shot, make sure you have the timer set, click button, and enjoy results.
> 
> A lot of new cameras have the ability to take a picture using a smartphone/tablet or your PC. Also on some cameras (mostly SLRs) you can add in a shutter remote. The reason you want to do all that is to avoid any kind of vibration or shakes.


I just purchased a fancy camera but unfortunately above average equipment combined with a below average operater will always yeild below average results







i guess like everything in life im just going to have to practice practice practice luck for me though lots of helpful experienced folks here on ocn to get pointed in the right direction.... Thanks...


----------



## aduman

Hi guys! Have they fixed the 'LEDs reverting back to red' issue yet? I want to use the light blue as I have a white Luxe but it always reverts to red after shutdown.


----------



## garethjwilliams

Any tutorials out there to wire up a monsoon m2 res and a D5 pump in to the same molex plug, I have noticed both sets of wires are 1 black and 1 red on each, just need to know where to place the 2 new wires added, any information is greatly received


----------



## emsj86

By any chance does anyone have a link for a tutorial for making acrylic panels for mobo and or side panels. My plan is to make an acrylic mobo panel that slides under the mobo stand offs and cut out for my cables and also to put a panel on the floor and back wall for a more sleak look and to cover any vented area that is either not filtered or doesn't have a fan. Like what was done here.


----------



## MrPatate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aduman*
> 
> Hi guys! Have they fixed the 'LEDs reverting back to red' issue yet? I want to use the light blue as I have a white Luxe but it always reverts to red after shutdown.


I've received my Luxe a month a go (amazon.ca) and it remembers the color between shutdown and boot. I've tried 8 different colors(overall there's 10 I believe?) with a wait of 5-10minutes in between and the color came back like it was. The only thing I haven't tried is removing power completely (120V wall plug), but even if it did revert to red , it shouldn't be a big deal since its rarely done.


----------



## aduman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrPatate*
> 
> I've received my Luxe a month a go (amazon.ca) and it remembers the color between shutdown and boot. I've tried 8 different colors(overall there's 10 I believe?) with a wait of 5-10minutes in between and the color came back like it was. The only thing I haven't tried is removing power completely (120V wall plug), but even if it did revert to red , it shouldn't be a big deal since its rarely done.


Mine doesn't remember any other colors than the first four or five IIRC. It gets annoying quickly... I didn't unplug it either, just the usual shutdown. Thanks for the reply though.


----------



## makn

*Really need to know when they gonna release EVOLV ATX*


----------



## Dimensive

Anyone here have the EVOLV ITX case? Curious what people think of it while I (im)patiently wait for mine to arrive.


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dimensive*
> 
> Anyone here have the EVOLV ITX case? Curious what people think of it while I (im)patiently wait for mine to arrive.


A few post back. Maybe a page or two someone posted a picture of this case with there build in it. Looked very clean and nice


----------



## emsj86

If phanteks can read my thoughts they will/would make a case with bottom mounted side mounted rads ( like the 900d or case labs) I thinking they did this hands down outside of case labs they would have the case market on lock down. I love he look of side mount rads. Allows to show your fans or rads off more, have better air flow, and easier to set up a drain without having. To have a multi port rad. Now make it happen phanteks. Lol


----------



## Dimensive

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> A few post back. Maybe a page or two someone posted a picture of this case with there build in it. Looked very clean and nice


Ah, I see it now. Thanks.


----------



## dee2dee

Been lurking for some time, first post, could use some help, struggling with indecision.

I've got two 780ti's and a 4790k, all on air in a rosewill blackhawk mid tower. Things are running pretty hot in that little case. I've upgraded fans and whatnot, trying to cool it, but I'd also like to push these gpu's more. So I pulled the trigger and bought ek blocks for the 780ti's as well as a terminal to connect them, so I guess I'm not committed to water cooling.

I'm convinced my case won't cut it, however, as I can't seem to figure out how I could put enough rads in here to "work". So, looking at the Enthoo Luxe. But, not owning one and not having done any water cooling before, I'm unsure of what I can get out of that case.

I'd like to purchase a 420mm radiator to cool the whole setup -- looking at these xspc kits on performance-pcs, as they look like they'll get rid of the guess work on fittings and whatnot for me:

http://www.performance-pcs.com/hot-xspc-raystorm-extreme-universal-cpu-watercooling-kit-w-ex420-radiator-d5-pump-res.html

Is that doable in this case? ie: can I get that 420 in there with that res? I need to maintain a minimum of 3, 3.5 inch bays. I could care less about my dvd drive.

Could I do that and also toss a 140mm rad+fan on the back? Would that be overkill? If none of this seems like the right move, could someone recommend me alternatives? Should I go towards a tube res instead?

Any advice would be appreciated.


----------



## wjturner78

I don't have that case so I can't comment on it but I will point out that most people frown on exhausting through a rad like you were asking although it can be done and still be effective in the right situation (I'm currently doing it)


----------



## SLOWION

Got a chance to play with another Phanteks case. This time, the Enthoo EVOLV mATX in white!



Don't laugh at my cables












Rest of the photos here


http://imgur.com/QAPOl


And of course a review


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wjturner78*
> 
> I don't have that case so I can't comment on it but I will point out that most people frown on exhausting through a rad like you were asking although it can be done and still be effective in the right situation (I'm currently doing it)


despite the fact that almost everyone ends up exhausting through a radiator you mean?

really though more radiator area = better performance no matter if you have to use some of them as exhaust.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dee2dee*
> 
> Been lurking for some time, first post, could use some help, struggling with indecision.
> 
> I've got two 780ti's and a 4790k, all on air in a rosewill blackhawk mid tower. Things are running pretty hot in that little case. I've upgraded fans and whatnot, trying to cool it, but I'd also like to push these gpu's more. So I pulled the trigger and bought ek blocks for the 780ti's as well as a terminal to connect them, so I guess I'm not committed to water cooling.
> 
> I'm convinced my case won't cut it, however, as I can't seem to figure out how I could put enough rads in here to "work". So, looking at the Enthoo Luxe. But, not owning one and not having done any water cooling before, I'm unsure of what I can get out of that case.
> 
> I'd like to purchase a 420mm radiator to cool the whole setup -- looking at these xspc kits on performance-pcs, as they look like they'll get rid of the guess work on fittings and whatnot for me:
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/hot-xspc-raystorm-extreme-universal-cpu-watercooling-kit-w-ex420-radiator-d5-pump-res.html
> 
> Is that doable in this case? ie: can I get that 420 in there with that res? I need to maintain a minimum of 3, 3.5 inch bays. I could care less about my dvd drive.
> 
> Could I do that and also toss a 140mm rad+fan on the back? Would that be overkill? If none of this seems like the right move, could someone recommend me alternatives? Should I go towards a tube res instead?
> 
> Any advice would be appreciated.


Generally speaking it would be far from overkill, if you were to throw in another 420mm, then we may start looking at overkill. From what I gather it is recommended to run a 240mm (or something with equal radiator area), for each component in your loop. So for a dual 780ti setup I would say you would be looking at something like two 360mm radiators. With that in mind though you can cool everything you have with a single 420mm radiator, but you will loose a lot of the overclocking headroom that you would gain with more radiators and you might have to run those fan a tad bit higher then you want to.

From the looks of it you might be able to fit a 240mm radiator in the bottom front while still keeping 3 drive bays. This would help somewhat with the cooling capacety, but I would need confirmation that it would actually work before pulling the trigger on it.

If you can indeed go for a 240mm in the front then, might I sugest going for the following kit? http://www.performance-pcs.com/alphacool-nexxxos-cool-answer-240-d5-ut-set.html#Details The alphacool kits come with better radiators, blocks and fans than the XSPC kits and if you can go for a 240mm in the front while still having a 420mm in the top then I don't see a problem going for a 240mm kit instead of a 420mm kit and simply add that 420mm radiator afterwards.


----------



## wjturner78

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> despite the fact that almost everyone ends up exhausting through a radiator you mean?
> 
> really though more radiator area = better performance no matter if you have to use some of them as exhaust.










yes thats what I meant. I agree more rads = more cooling area regardless of intake or exhaust. Some people get completely hung up on the fact that you need to intake cold air and exhaust the warmed air even though theres only a degree or 2 of difference between the 2. I always try to use the max amount of rads I can physically cram into a case....

The rule of thumb I follow is 1 120mm worth of space for each component plus 1 for overhead, but ivevseen guys get away with alot less than that, each build is unique


----------



## emsj86

So got a plan to cut the front panel of my enthoo pro. Removing the mesh from the front and using mdpc modders mesh have mesh from the bottom where it normally is all the way up to the io panel. Than with a few drilled holes I could put a 240, 280, or 360 up front and keep my 240 on bottom and. 360 on top. Than through in the other 780 for sli and boom beast enthoo pro. That will push my soon to be new monitor acer 1440p 144hz g sync ips monitor


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wjturner78*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> yes thats what I meant. I agree more rads = more cooling area regardless of intake or exhaust. Some people get completely hung up on the fact that you need to intake cold air and exhaust the warmed air even though theres only a degree or 2 of difference between the 2. I always try to use the max amount of rads I can physically cram into a case....
> 
> The rule of thumb I follow is 1 120mm worth of space for each component plus 1 for overhead, but ivevseen guys get away with alot less than that, each build is unique


I have always heard a 240mm for each component, but that may just be to leave enough room for a real cool and quiet build. I'm really curious how it works though, but I would not be surprised if the 240mm thing is only for everything in a single loop. Just thinking since those AIO modded cards get decent temps with a single 120mm rad on them it may be that the CPU requires a lower water temperature... But really though I'm far from experienced enough in this field, I'm just relying on what others have written before me.


----------



## emsj86

I too always was told 120 for each. Than another 120 for oc headroom. Now if your running some of those amd Gpus things change as they like to sizzle


----------



## wjturner78

I whenI first started reading about water loops I read an article that you start with 120 then add 120 for each component plus 120 for overhead but II'vealso seen a gguy running an over clocked cpu and 2 760's on a single 240 (he posted screen shots who knows Ilife he was 100% truthful). There'sso many vvariables it really is a case by case basis pun intended


----------



## wjturner78

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> So got a plan to cut the front panel of my enthoo pro. Removing the mesh from the front and using mdpc modders mesh have mesh from the bottom where it normally is all the way up to the io panel. Than with a few drilled holes I could put a 240, 280, or 360 up front and keep my 240 on bottom and. 360 on top. Than through in the other 780 for sli and boom beast enthoo pro. That will push my soon to be new monitor acer 1440p 144hz g sync ips monitor


I think that'll make the baddest pro out there


----------



## emsj86

You don't see many pros watercooled (big gpu and cpu). Probably bc the luxe came out. I got the pro upon release before the luxe was out or I would have got the luxe. Well maybe not as I didn't plan to water cool it just happened and took over


----------



## InCoGnIt0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roxycon*
> 
> cant get enough rad
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> higher iso on the camera to give lightning justice but not as sharp picture


That has got to be the cleanest looking water cooling I have ever seen (as far as the tubing goes).


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InCoGnIt0*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Roxycon*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: snip
> 
> 
> 
> cant get enough rad
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> higher iso on the camera to give lightning justice but not as sharp picture
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That has got to be the cleanest looking water cooling I have ever seen (as far as the tubing goes).
Click to expand...

FWIW, it might look neat, but parallel gpus and cpu like that doesn't usually work out so well performance-wise. Most people who try it don't leave it that way for very long. IIRC Roxycon didn't either. ...
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roxycon*
> 
> so, added some new stuff and reconfigured my loop because i was curious to see what performance i was missing with the parallel loop
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Snip
> 
> 
> 
> changed the ram cooling too
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> the new loop
> 
> 
> 
> filled, i do not like it this way
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> got a little gain in temps though, six degree cooler on the cpu and the gpus have still 10 degree between them (this is with p/p on top rad), so with a proper check on the devices you wanna use it could perform as well as a normal setup


----------



## emsj86

. Out with the old window


----------



## emsj86




----------



## sav4

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dee2dee*
> 
> Been lurking for some time, first post, could use some help, struggling with indecision.
> 
> I've got two 780ti's and a 4790k, all on air in a rosewill blackhawk mid tower. Things are running pretty hot in that little case. I've upgraded fans and whatnot, trying to cool it, but I'd also like to push these gpu's more. So I pulled the trigger and bought ek blocks for the 780ti's as well as a terminal to connect them, so I guess I'm not committed to water cooling.
> 
> I'm convinced my case won't cut it, however, as I can't seem to figure out how I could put enough rads in here to "work". So, looking at the Enthoo Luxe. But, not owning one and not having done any water cooling before, I'm unsure of what I can get out of that case.
> 
> I'd like to purchase a 420mm radiator to cool the whole setup -- looking at these xspc kits on performance-pcs, as they look like they'll get rid of the guess work on fittings and whatnot for me:
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/hot-xspc-raystorm-extreme-universal-cpu-watercooling-kit-w-ex420-radiator-d5-pump-res.html
> 
> Is that doable in this case? ie: can I get that 420 in there with that res? I need to maintain a minimum of 3, 3.5 inch bays. I could care less about my dvd drive.
> 
> Could I do that and also toss a 140mm rad+fan on the back? Would that be overkill? If none of this seems like the right move, could someone recommend me alternatives? Should I go towards a tube res instead?
> 
> Any advice would be appreciated.


Pretty much 1 120mm for each component and I'd add a extra 120mm for oc them all is my rule off thumb but depends on if u have toasty components to.


----------



## atoff

Well, I posted this question on the Phanteks forum, but I think it's much more active over here, so...
I just had a chance to pop in a PSU and test the LED's on the Luxe I just recently bought. The LED's color on the top (both sides) is different from that of the front of the case. There's a very bluish tint on the top. So white would be bluish. Pink looks like a light blue on top, whereas it's very bright pink on the front. This makes it look very inconsistent, and it's annoying the crap out of me. Is this the case for you guys with the Luxe?


----------



## atoff

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrPatate*
> 
> Anyone?!?


You should definitely be able to. I'll probably be doing the same.


----------



## MrPatate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *atoff*
> 
> You should definitely be able to. I'll probably be doing the same.


I received an answer on the amazon question thingy, yes the strips can be cut at each 3 LEDs, so about every 1.5 - 2''.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *atoff*
> 
> Well, I posted this question on the Phanteks forum, but I think it's much more active over here, so...
> I just had a chance to pop in a PSU and test the LED's on the Luxe I just recently bought. The LED's color on the top (both sides) is different from that of the front of the case. There's a very bluish tint on the top. So white would be bluish. Pink looks like a light blue on top, whereas it's very bright pink on the front. This makes it look very inconsistent, and it's annoying the crap out of me. Is this the case for you guys with the Luxe?


Mine are working great, maybe try unplugging the side LED (remember the color they were), change the front to that color and than plug them back. I don't know how those strips know what color is asked but it might work ?!?


----------



## atoff

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrPatate*
> 
> I received an answer on the amazon question thingy, yes the strips can be cut at each 3 LEDs, so about every 1.5 - 2''.
> Mine are working great, maybe try unplugging the side LED (remember the color they were), change the front to that color and than plug them back. I don't know how those strips know what color is asked but it might work ?!?


The colors are the same, it's just the tone of the color is different between the top and front. Like the color temperature. Blue vs cyan, it's noticeably different, but the same color essentially, so the controller is doing the right thing, If I'm alone on this I'll probably contact Phanteks. They've already replaced my window, so hopefully they wouldn't give me too much trouble for this. Problem is I can't get it on camera. It doesn't show the difference.


----------



## sav4

Hey guys I just finished putting my luxe together and was wondering how long you need to hold the led button to turn the lights off ? can't seem to get it to turn off


----------



## MrPatate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *atoff*
> 
> The colors are the same, it's just the tone of the color is different between the top and front.


That's weird, I have read this entire thread before buying mine and never seen this issue. You should contact Phantek, maybe they changed supplier and you got a mix...


----------



## MrPatate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sav4*
> 
> Hey guys I just finished putting my luxe together and was wondering how long you need to hold the led button to turn the lights off ? can't seem to get it to turn off


About 3-4 seconds. And same to turn them ON again.


----------



## sav4

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrPatate*
> 
> About 3-4 seconds. And same to turn them ON again.


Ok thanks


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sav4*
> 
> Ok thanks


just like a hard power off for the pc power button


----------



## atoff

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrPatate*
> 
> That's weird, I have read this entire thread before buying mine and never seen this issue. You should contact Phantek, maybe they changed supplier and you got a mix...


Yeah, I'm guessing that's exactly what happened. So far I'm a little bit disappointed. I really love the case, but just some quality control issues. The window having scratches was to be expected. That was like 50/50. But having bought the white model, the paint on the inside is really shoddy, and there are places where it has chips. There are also dark fingerprints all over the inside paint, that's baked into the paint. Now the LED's. I just hope they can get the LED problem sorted for me, because I can put up with the other problems, the case itself looks great.


----------



## pcrevolution

Just got myself the Evolv ITX.

Still waiting for the waterblocks & rads to arrive. But I couldn't help fitting the components and doing some sleeving first.









Can't wait to ditch that Intel stock cooler and GPU blower. Will probably do something about the blue PCH heatsink.


----------



## owcraftsman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *wjturner78*
> 
> I don't have that case so I can't comment on it but I will point out that most people frown on exhausting through a rad like you were asking although it can be done and still be effective in the right situation (I'm currently doing it)
> 
> 
> 
> despite the fact that almost everyone ends up exhausting through a radiator you mean?
> 
> really though more radiator area = better performance no matter if you have to use some of them as exhaust.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *dee2dee*
> 
> Been lurking for some time, first post, could use some help, struggling with indecision.
> 
> I've got two 780ti's and a 4790k, all on air in a rosewill blackhawk mid tower. Things are running pretty hot in that little case. I've upgraded fans and whatnot, trying to cool it, but I'd also like to push these gpu's more. So I pulled the trigger and bought ek blocks for the 780ti's as well as a terminal to connect them, so I guess I'm not committed to water cooling.
> 
> I'm convinced my case won't cut it, however, as I can't seem to figure out how I could put enough rads in here to "work". So, looking at the Enthoo Luxe. But, not owning one and not having done any water cooling before, I'm unsure of what I can get out of that case.
> 
> I'd like to purchase a 420mm radiator to cool the whole setup -- looking at these xspc kits on performance-pcs, as they look like they'll get rid of the guess work on fittings and whatnot for me:
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/hot-xspc-raystorm-extreme-universal-cpu-watercooling-kit-w-ex420-radiator-d5-pump-res.html
> 
> Is that doable in this case? ie: can I get that 420 in there with that res? I need to maintain a minimum of 3, 3.5 inch bays. I could care less about my dvd drive.
> 
> Could I do that and also toss a 140mm rad+fan on the back? Would that be overkill? If none of this seems like the right move, could someone recommend me alternatives? Should I go towards a tube res instead?
> 
> Any advice would be appreciated.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Generally speaking it would be far from overkill, if you were to throw in another 420mm, then we may start looking at overkill. From what I gather it is recommended to run a 240mm (or something with equal radiator area), for each component in your loop. So for a dual 780ti setup I would say you would be looking at something like two 360mm radiators. With that in mind though you can cool everything you have with a single 420mm radiator, but you will loose a lot of the overclocking headroom that you would gain with more radiators and you might have to run those fan a tad bit higher then you want to.
> 
> From the looks of it you might be able to fit a 240mm radiator in the bottom front while still keeping 3 drive bays. This would help somewhat with the cooling capacety, but I would need confirmation that it would actually work before pulling the trigger on it.
> 
> If you can indeed go for a 240mm in the front then, might I sugest going for the following kit? http://www.performance-pcs.com/alphacool-nexxxos-cool-answer-240-d5-ut-set.html#Details The alphacool kits come with better radiators, blocks and fans than the XSPC kits and if you can go for a 240mm in the front while still having a 420mm in the top then I don't see a problem going for a 240mm kit instead of a 420mm kit and simply add that 420mm radiator afterwards.
Click to expand...

I'd have to disagree with Rainmaker on the kit the raystorm cpu block is way better than the alphacool. I'd get the 420 kit and add an alphacool 240 rad if it were me. Also I'd have to agree with the 2x 120 per component rule for having plenty of head room but you really should calculate the actual wattage you will be dissipating if you want to be sure. You may find this link helpful " http://www.overclock.net/t/1457426/radiator-size-estimator/0_50 " In this case I think a 420 and 240 would be sufficient especially considering the GK110's efficiency (420x140)+(240x120)=87600 sq. mm. 360+360x120=86400 sq. mm of surface area approx. as you can see the 420+240 combo actually has a bit more area by 1200 sq. mm. of course this is a general calculation not exact and different rad will vary but all will be very close to that. GL with your build you'll find lots of answers here try search.


----------



## owcraftsman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*


Can't say I like the fan grills on top but everything else looks fantastic


----------



## MrPatate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*


Does the addition of filters really help? There's room between the grill and the fans, pretty sure the air/dust will simply go around the filters no?
Personally I'll probably disassemble the top grill (its just 6-8 folded metal tabs holding it in place), slide a better filter (pantyhose maybe lol) and install the mesh back.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *atoff*
> 
> Yeah, I'm guessing that's exactly what happened. So far I'm a little bit disappointed. I really love the case, but just some quality control issues. The window having scratches was to be expected. That was like 50/50. But having bought the white model, the paint on the inside is really shoddy, and there are places where it has chips. There are also dark fingerprints all over the inside paint, that's baked into the paint. Now the LED's. I just hope they can get the LED problem sorted for me, because I can put up with the other problems, the case itself looks great.


Wow with all those problem I would have return that case in a heartbeat and get another one from another supplier (less chance of trouble if its a defective batch). The window is easily fixed, but the paint with finger print is a pain.


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *owcraftsman*
> 
> I'd have to disagree with Rainmaker on the kit the raystorm cpu block is way better than the alphacool. I'd get the 420 kit and add an alphacool 240 rad if it were me. Also I'd have to agree with the 2x 120 per component rule for having plenty of head room but you really should calculate the actual wattage you will be dissipating if you want to be sure. You may find this link helpful " http://www.overclock.net/t/1457426/radiator-size-estimator/0_50 " In this case I think a 420 and 240 would be sufficient especially considering the GK110's efficiency (420x140)+(240x120)=87600 sq. mm. 360+360x120=86400 sq. mm of surface area approx. as you can see the 420+240 combo actually has a bit more area by 1200 sq. mm. of course this is a general calculation not exact and different rad will vary but all will be very close to that. GL with your build you'll find lots of answers here try search.


Really? From what I have read it's performance is about the same as the EKWB Supremacy (non evo) and it performs above the raystorm in just about every review. Only reason I can see to not coose the Alphacool Nexxxos block would be that some are concerned about the threading on them due to them being designed for fittings that don't screw in that deep (like any modern fitting really). I'll take another look at the reviews, but I could have sweared that the Alphacool scored better than the Raystorm.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

http://www.overclock.net/t/1505481/summer-water-block-round-up-2014/0_40


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1505481/summer-water-block-round-up-2014/0_40


I see, well I might as well post the ones I refered to as well then:
http://www.xtremerigs.net/2012/11/09/2012-cpu-water-block-roundup/2/
http://www.overclock.net/t/1411620/review-cpu-cooler-roundup-nine-water-coolers-in-test-alphacool-aquacomputer-ek-waterblocks-koolance-phobya-swiftech-xspc/0_30 (this is with full brass top so expect 1-2*c higher with the acetal)

I also found a couple more that puts the XP3 behind the Raystorm, so I think it varies somewhat from test to test. Really though I would say the better radiator and the Eloop fans is a good enough reason to choose the Alphacool one instead of the XSPC kit and that's even ignoring the tests that show the XP3 performing better than the Raystorm.

Just my opinion though, but I wanted to at least show that my claims were at the very least not without it's basis in some information.

Edit: I added the wrong link, still you can check out this one to as it shows the XP3 performing behind the Raystorm. http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?285753-CPU-water-blocks-roundup . Also I see that twon of them refered to the same review so I removed one (http://hardforum.com/showthread.php?t=1708036).


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrPatate*
> 
> Does the addition of filters really help? There's room between the grill and the fans, pretty sure the air/dust will simply go around the filters no?
> Personally I'll probably disassemble the top grill (its just 6-8 folded metal tabs holding it in place), slide a better filter (pantyhose maybe lol) and install the mesh back.
> Wow with all those problem I would have return that case in a heartbeat and get another one from another supplier (less chance of trouble if its a defective batch). The window is easily fixed, but the paint with finger print is a pain.


There not usually there I just had them on there at the time but usually there on my wife's work pc. As it's a rosewill challenger case with no filters. But just for the sake of doing it benching with them made no difference at all. You can't even see that there is a window. So happy with this but now I will have to clean dust a lot more often as I will see it. On a side note. I will be sli my 780 and wanted to know if on looks alone should I get a exi bridge and polish it or a black one?


----------



## MrPatate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> On a side note. I will be sli my 780 and wanted to know if on looks alone should I get a exi bridge and polish it or a black one?


To be honest I don't know what is a exi bridge (not a watercooling guy). Since everything is black or carbon, I'd go for black or if possible stick some vinyl with carbon finish on it.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> There not usually there I just had them on there at the time but usually there on my wife's work pc. As it's a rosewill challenger case with no filters. But just for the sake of doing it benching with them made no difference at all. You can't even see that there is a window. So happy with this but now I will have to clean dust a lot more often as I will see it. On a side note. I will be sli my 780 and wanted to know if on looks alone should I get a exi bridge and polish it or a black one?


you could paint the top and sides blue







... honestly i think any of the three options would look good...


----------



## emsj86

Sorry typo plexi terminal bridge


----------



## wjturner78

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *owcraftsman*
> 
> I'd have to disagree with Rainmaker on the kit the raystorm cpu block is way better than the alphacool. I'd get the 420 kit and add an alphacool 240 rad if it were me. Also I'd have to agree with the 2x 120 per component rule for having plenty of head room but you really should calculate the actual wattage you will be dissipating if you want to be sure. You may find this link helpful " http://www.overclock.net/t/1457426/radiator-size-estimator/0_50 " In this case I think a 420 and 240 would be sufficient especially considering the GK110's efficiency (420x140)+(240x120)=87600 sq. mm. 360+360x120=86400 sq. mm of surface area approx. as you can see the 420+240 combo actually has a bit more area by 1200 sq. mm. of course this is a general calculation not exact and different rad will vary but all will be very close to that. GL with your build you'll find lots of answers here try search.


I read your rig builder, are you still wanting a second fan hub? I was gonna try go use mine but didnt. Pm your address if you want it


----------



## Reystar

I'm thinking buying the Primo....what do you guys think? I do not watercool, it will be just with air cooling and a H100i GTX for the CPU. Going for a nice sleek looking build


----------



## wrigleyvillain

IMO it is quite hard to make a Primo look "sleek" or even _good_ on air because without a reservoir and rads and tubing etc...there is simply too much empty space.


----------



## Spectre73

Hello everyone,

I am searching for a stealth cover for the 5.25" drive bay of a white enthoo luxe to mount a dvd burner - since I can not, for the life of me find a white DVD/ BR burner.

Does anyone know if this item will fit into the case and if it is a good match (colorwise)?

https://www.compuland.de/product_info.php/Cooltek-Flip-Down-Laufwerkblende-fuer-CT-K2-weiss--CT-K2-FD-W-_592683.html

Does anyone have a better idea how to integrate a ODD into the front of the case?


----------



## pcrevolution

I don't know about you, but I'll just paint the drive's front cover white.









It might be hard to get the same texture as the aluminium, but I think for the very least, the shade of white should be doable.


----------



## Spectre73

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pcrevolution*
> 
> I don't know about you, but I'll just paint the drive's front cover white.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It might be hard to get the same texture as the aluminium, but I think for the very least, the shade of white should be doable.


I already did this, but the color does not match that well.

I used pure white spray paint with primer, but it still looks a little "grey" or "beige".

It need not be the exact same texture, but the color tone should be roughly the same.

Only option I can imagine now would be to visit a local car painter and ask for assistance.


----------



## wjturner78

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> IMO it is quite hard to make a Primo look "sleek" or even _good_ on air because without a reservoir and rads and tubing etc...there is simply too much empty space.


I gotta agree. air cooled in a primo can look vacant if not done right. i think if your on air a pro or luxe would be the better option, but some people really like the door of the primo


----------



## wjturner78

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spectre73*
> 
> I already did this, but the color does not match that well.
> 
> I used pure white spray paint with primer, but it still looks a little "grey" or "beige".
> 
> It need not be the exact same texture, but the color tone should be roughly the same.
> 
> Only option I can imagine now would be to visit a local car painter and ask for assistance.


Its a pain but you could paint everything that way the color will be a spot on match


----------



## Faster_is_better

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> IMO it is quite hard to make a Primo look "sleek" or even _good_ on air because without a reservoir and rads and tubing etc...there is simply too much empty space.


Agreed, plus the case is massive. So it would seem like a waste of space internally and overall. The Luxe/Pro have similar features and exterior looks but on a smaller scale so I think they would be more appropriate for an aircooled build, but still have plenty of watercooling options if needed.


----------



## Reystar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Faster_is_better*
> 
> Agreed, plus the case is massive. So it would seem like a waste of space internally and overall. The Luxe/Pro have similar features and exterior looks but on a smaller scale so I think they would be more appropriate for an aircooled build, but still have plenty of watercooling options if needed.


ATM i'm using a 800D and it looks freaking cool, i just want to a new case, so if Enthoo Primo is 800D sizewise, then it would be awesome


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Reystar*
> 
> ATM i'm using a 800D and it looks freaking cool, i just want to a new case, so if Enthoo Primo is 800D sizewise, then it would be awesome


Enthoo Primo is larger than an 800D. It's about halfway in size between it and a 900D. The Enthoo Luxe and Pro cases are a bit smaller than an 800D.

900D:........... 252 mm x 692 mm x 650 mm (W x H x D)
Enthoo Primo: 250 mm x 650 mm x 600 mm (W x H x D)
800D:........... 229 mm x 609 mm x 609 mm (W x H x D)
Enthoo Luxe:. 235 mm x 560 mm x 550 mm (W x H x D)
Enthoo Pro:... 235 mm x 535 mm x 550 mm (W x H x D)


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Reystar*
> 
> I'm thinking buying the Primo....what do you guys think? I do not watercool, it will be just with air cooling and a H100i GTX for the CPU. Going for a nice sleek looking build


I know others say Primo doesn't look good on air, while some of us think it does ..
  

But it is a big case. The Primo is so tall it will barely fit under a desk .. and if on a rolling base usually will not. If you don't need something this big, get something smaller like the Luxe or Pro.


----------



## Reystar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Enthoo Primo is larger than an 800D. It's about halfway in size between it and a 900D. The Enthoo Luxe and Pro cases are a bit smaller than an 800D.
> 
> 900D:........... 252 mm x 692 mm x 650 mm (W x H x D)
> Enthoo Primo: 250 mm x 650 mm x 600 mm (W x H x D)
> 800D:........... 229 mm x 609 mm x 609 mm (W x H x D)
> Enthoo Luxe:. 235 mm x 560 mm x 550 mm (W x H x D)
> Enthoo Pro:... 235 mm x 535 mm x 550 mm (W x H x D)


True but Primo has less area for the motherboard, everything is more tight in Primo...whereas 800D has more space, adding an E-ATX wont even fill up the whole mobo area...meaning that Primo will look fuller than my 800D even if its bigger


----------



## MrPatate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spectre73*
> 
> Hello everyone,
> 
> I am searching for a stealth cover for the 5.25" drive bay of a white enthoo luxe to mount a dvd burner - since I can not, for the life of me find a white DVD/ BR burner.


Matching white is probably the hardest. Just a little off and some part will look gray/yellow/blue. Black is easy (even if not perfect its less noticeable IMO). A car paint shop is probably your best bet, the dvd cover you linked has a 1% chance of having the right color, easier to paint the front of your drive.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> I know others say Primo doesn't look good on air, while some of us think it does ..
> 
> 
> But it is a big case. The Primo is so tall it will barely fit under a desk .. and if on a rolling base usually will not. If you don't need something this big, get something smaller like the Luxe or Pro.


Are you satisfied with the PH-TC14PE? That thing is gigantic! I only have a stock i5 that will never be overclock, but on Prime95 the stock cooler goes to 80-90 very quickly(5 minutes, but I need to add more intake fans since the front HDD bays are full) so I'll upgrade it. Maybe the TC14CS would be enough for my needs.

A review of the new TC14S is very disappointing, poor cooling and also badly built (I'm surprised by Phantek on this, I thought they made quality stuff like the Enthoos and their new fan line up).

http://www.frostytech.com/articleview.cfm?articleid=2783&page=6
"While it's commendable that Phanteks have produced a narrow CPU heatsink for the increasingly constrained space on Intel LGA2011-3 and LGA115x motherboards, it's a crying shame the designers opted to paint the aluminum fins black. To add insult to injury, the painted aluminum fin-to-nickel plated heatpipe joints are loose to the extent the bottom fins can be shifted back and forth! "


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrPatate*
> 
> Are you satisfied with the PH-TC14PE? That thing is gigantic! I only have a stock i5 that will never be overclock, but on Prime95 the stock cooler goes to 80-90 very quickly(5 minutes, but I need to add more intake fans since the front HDD bays are full) so I'll upgrade it. Maybe the TC14CS would be enough for my needs.
> 
> A review of the new TC14S is very disappointing, poor cooling and also badly built (I'm surprised by Phantek on this, I thought they made quality stuff like the Enthoos and their new fan line up).
> 
> http://www.frostytech.com/articleview.cfm?articleid=2783&page=6
> "While it's commendable that Phanteks have produced a narrow CPU heatsink for the increasingly constrained space on Intel LGA2011-3 and LGA115x motherboards, it's a crying shame the designers opted to paint the aluminum fins black. To add insult to injury, the painted aluminum fin-to-nickel plated heatpipe joints are loose to the extent the bottom fins can be shifted back and forth! "


I have two PH-TC14PE coolers and am very pleased with both of them. I say this having used many other top tier coolers as well .. like HR-02, TRUE Spirit 140, Dark Rock Pro 2 & 3, Archon SB-E, NH-D15, R1 Ultimate & Universal, Silver Arrow, Silver Arrow IB-E Extreme and many others.

It doesn't matter how good the cool you use is if you do not supply it with cool air. If your room is 23c and the air going into cooler is 28c fine .. CPU will be 55-70c. But if the air going into cooler is 33c, the CPU will be 60-75c, and if air into cooler is 38c the CPU will be 65-80c. My own runs 45-55c on top of i7 920, 980 or 980x with 3.5-4.0GHz OCs'.
I do not like pancake / down-flow coolers. Too hard to keep the cool intake air from being contaminated by their own exhaust.


----------



## MrPatate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> I have two PH-TC14PE coolers and am very pleased with both of them. I say this having used many other top tier coolers as well .. like HR-02, TRUE Spirit 140, Dark Rock Pro 2 & 3, Archon SB-E, NH-D15, R1 Ultimate & Universal, Silver Arrow, Silver Arrow IB-E Extreme and many others.


Thanks for the info about the CPU cooler.

I'd like your opinion on air cooling for my case. I have the Luxe and it came with 3 pin fans (2x140mm and 1x200mm).
I plan on installing 2x140mm in front, 2x120 on the HDD cages(its full, the 140s will need help), 2 or 3x140mm on top and 140mm back exhaust (all others are intakes).

1st: Is it a good plan? Correct me if I'm wrong.
2nd: Should I get all PWM fans / PWM for new fans and reuse the 3 pins fans / All 3 pins fans. (I'll get the right splitter depending)

I'll only use Phanteks fans(ideally, unless I would gain a lot buying something else). I'm pretty sure the front and HDD cages should be MPs(3 pins) since they are made for static pressure. But maybe I'm better with PWM there as well?! I'm not sure which model to choose (and there's not a lot of review on the less popular ones).

PWM:
-PH-F140TS
-PH-F140XP
-PH-F140HP

Voltage modulated:
-PH-F140SP
-PH-F140MP

I really hope you'll take the time to answer, it would be greatly appreciated.
Thank you


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> I know others say Primo doesn't look good on air, while some of us think it does ..


I will give you that those look pretty good...but it would all look even better in a smaller case, I think.


----------



## Teatowl

A few simple questions but I can't seem to find a consistent answer anywhere.

I'm looking at getting the enthoo lux. I plan on putting a 45mm x 420mm rad in the top (with fans in pull in the top section) and a 45mm x 240mm rad in the bottom (with fans below in push). Here's link to the rad's.

http://www.umart.com.au/umart1/pro/Products-details.phtml?id=10&id2=258&bid=2&sid=234451&

http://www.umart.com.au/umart1/pro/Products-details.phtml?id=10&id2=258&bid=2&sid=234415&

Firstly any immediate problems with doing that?

Secondly will I be able to have that bottom rad without having to remove to the PSU shroud (to keep a clean look)? If not would a single 140mm rad work (with a second fan on the bottom for air flow)?


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrPatate*
> 
> Thanks for the info about the CPU cooler.
> 
> I'd like your opinion on air cooling for my case. I have the Luxe and it came with 3 pin fans (2x140mm and 1x200mm).
> I plan on installing 2x140mm in front, 2x120 on the HDD cages(its full, the 140s will need help), 2 or 3x140mm on top and 140mm back exhaust (all others are intakes).
> 
> 1st: Is it a good plan? Correct me if I'm wrong.
> 2nd: Should I get all PWM fans / PWM for new fans and reuse the 3 pins fans / All 3 pins fans. (I'll get the right splitter depending)
> 
> I'll only use Phanteks fans(ideally, unless I would gain a lot buying something else). I'm pretty sure the front and HDD cages should be MPs(3 pins) since they are made for static pressure. But maybe I'm better with PWM there as well?! I'm not sure which model to choose (and there's not a lot of review on the less popular ones).
> 
> PWM:
> -PH-F140TS
> -PH-F140XP
> -PH-F140HP
> 
> Voltage modulated:
> -PH-F140SP
> -PH-F140MP
> 
> I really hope you'll take the time to answer, it would be greatly appreciated.
> Thank you


I prefer PWM fans, but with the Phanteks PWM controlled variable voltage fan hub using PH-F140SP fans will work just as well .. and saves some money as well.

Voltage modulated fans are PWM. PWM stands for Pulse Width Modulation.

Your airflow plan is out of balance .. too many exhaust and not enough intake. Only the 2x 140mm front fans are bringing air into case. The 2x120mm on HDD cage will probably create noise and turbulence rather than airflow. A little more intake than exhaust is helpful as it pushes air out of unused case vents .. rather than more exhaust pulling dusty air in. A case flows the same amount of air in and out.
We want the airflow front to back to move GPU heat out the back rather than up around CPU cooler. Simple logic. If more is entering than leave the case would blow up like a ballon .. if less entering than leaving it would suck itself into a solid ball. A rather extreme example, but ..









I would use all PH-F140SP .. same as come with Luxe. I would probably use the
200mm as exhaust in back of top.
2x 140mm front intake
1x 140mm bottom intake (maybe 2x 120mm)
1x rear exhaust
We need more airflow through case than total of all components use. If we have TC14PE cooler and 3x 95mm fans on a GPU 3x 140mm intakes should be enough. Especially if they have automatic speed control to cycle with CPU and maybe even GPU fans. Info on how to do this as well as more details about case airflow in "Ways to better cooler" link in my sig.

Variable voltage controlled fans
PH-F140TS
PH-F140SP

12v PWM controlled fans
PH-F140XP
PH-F140MP
PH-F140HP


----------



## WHIMington

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Voltage modulated fans are PWM. PWM stands for Pulse Width Modulation.


Doyll I am not sure what you want to say here.


----------



## MrPatate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Your airflow plan is out of balance .. too many exhaust and not enough intake.


Maybe it wasn't clear but ALL fans are intakes except the back one in my plan.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> The 2x120mm on HDD cage will probably create noise and turbulence rather than airflow.


I'm surprised you say this, I thought it would be like a push/pull configuration on a radiator and help bring more air in since the bays are full of HDDs. Also later you suggest all SP, they will do the job for such a dense wall of HDDs? Or PWM MP would be better?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> A little more intake than exhaust is helpful as it pushes air out of unused case vents .. rather than more exhaust pulling dusty air in. A case flows the same amount of air in and out. We want the airflow front to back to move GPU heat out the back rather than up around CPU cooler. Simple logic. If more is entering than leave the case would blow up like a ballon .. if less entering than leaving it would suck itself into a solid ball. A rather extreme example, but ..


Since I've clarified that all of them are intakes and only one exhaust, from what I read you are not suggesting a positive pressure case either? Every fan has a filter except the back one I thought the case was made for that kind of setup. Installing 2-3 fans on top as intakes was a bit counter intuitive but since it had filters I thought it was for that.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> I would use all PH-F140SP .. same as come with Luxe. I would probably use the
> 200mm as exhaust in back of top.
> 2x 140mm front intake
> 1x 140mm bottom intake (maybe 2x 120mm)
> 1x rear exhaust
> We need more airflow through case than total of all components use. If we have TC14PE cooler and 3x 95mm fans on a GPU 3x 140mm intakes should be enough. Especially if they have automatic speed control to cycle with CPU and maybe even GPU fans. Info on how to do this as well as more details about case airflow in "Ways to better cooler" link in my sig.
> 
> Variable voltage controlled fans
> PH-F140TS
> PH-F140SP
> 
> 12v PWM controlled fans
> PH-F140XP
> PH-F140MP
> PH-F140HP


I've read your cooling thread, very informative! Thanks
I'm still itching to change all fans to PWM. Which model do you suggest in PWM?

Thanks for all the information!


----------



## doyll

WHIMington
MrPatate had two lists of fans; PWM & voltage modulated. I was simply stating they are the same thing. Isn't that rather evident?

@MrPatate
If all fans are intake except the back, isn't the area of intake vents (with fans) versus the area of exhaust vents (with or without fans) grossly out of balance? Like at least 2:1 intake area to exhaust area .. which will result is fans working their little tutus off trying to move air through an area less than half their size. Result is much less airflow thru the case / inefficient use of fans. Think of it as trying to move the airflow from a 140mm fan through an 80mm vent hole instead of a 140mm vent hole. Which will be quieter and move more air?

120mm fans on HDD cage might help, but what is to keep them from circling air around themselves or blowing and causing turbulence around the GPU? The trick is to not have air moving too fast and causing exhaust to mix with intake, but to keep cool air flowing at rate component fans are using it and pushing their heated exhaust out of case without it contaminating the cool air.


----------



## MrPatate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> WHIMington
> MrPatate had two lists of fans; PWM & voltage modulated. I was simply stating they are the same thing. Isn't that rather evident?
> 
> @MrPatate
> If all fans are intake except the back, isn't the area of intake vents (with fans) versus the area of exhaust vents (with or without fans) grossly out of balance? Like at least 2:1 intake area to exhaust area .. which will result is fans working their little tutus off trying to move air through an area less than half their size. Result is much less airflow thru the case / inefficient use of fans. Think of it as trying to move the airflow from a 140mm fan through an 80mm vent hole instead of a 140mm vent hole. Which will be quieter and move more air?
> 
> 120mm fans on HDD cage might help, but what is to keep them from circling air around themselves or blowing and causing turbulence around the GPU? The trick is to not have air moving too fast and causing exhaust to mix with intake, but to keep cool air flowing at rate component fans are using it and pushing their heated exhaust out of case without it contaminating the cool air.


Thanks again for the knowledge sharing!
I can't find where, but I remember seeing a review of this case with 2x120mm fans added and the GPU temps dropped thanks to them (4C, idle or load I'm not sure).
EDIT: I might be mistaking results with the drive cage removed, which obviously will give better GPU temperature.


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Teatowl*
> 
> A few simple questions but I can't seem to find a consistent answer anywhere.
> 
> I'm looking at getting the enthoo lux. I plan on putting a 45mm x 420mm rad in the top (with fans in pull in the top section) and a 45mm x 240mm rad in the bottom (with fans below in push). Here's link to the rad's.
> 
> http://www.umart.com.au/umart1/pro/Products-details.phtml?id=10&id2=258&bid=2&sid=234451&
> 
> http://www.umart.com.au/umart1/pro/Products-details.phtml?id=10&id2=258&bid=2&sid=234415&
> 
> Firstly any immediate problems with doing that?
> 
> Secondly will I be able to have that bottom rad without having to remove to the PSU shroud (to keep a clean look)? If not would a single 140mm rad work (with a second fan on the bottom for air flow)?


the XT45 will go in the top fine. there is enough clearance under the psu shroud for a 45 mm rad + fan. even though two 140mm fans can mount in the bottom, I don't think you could do a 140 rad + 140mm fan next to each other.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrPatate*
> 
> Thanks again for the knowledge sharing!
> I can't find where, but I remember seeing a review of this case with 2x120mm fans added and the GPU temps dropped thanks to them (4C, idle or load I'm not sure).
> EDIT: I might be mistaking results with the drive cage removed, which obviously will give better GPU temperature.


Try it and see what happens. I could be wrong. Either I'm right or I'm wrong .. toss of the coin.


----------



## emsj86

When I was on air in my pro. I added two fans to the drive cages and my temps dropped about 5 degrees under load. Really seemed to help. 200mm was up front and two 120 (cm sickleow) on the cages. And I had all too as I take and just the back as exhaust n


----------



## MrPatate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> When I was on air in my pro. I added two fans to the drive cages and my temps dropped about 5 degrees under load. Really seemed to help. 200mm was up front and two 120 (cm sickleow) on the cages. And I had all too as I take and just the back as exhaust n


Thanks for the info. Could you clarify your last sentence please? Just to be sure of how yours was setup (top, bottom fans? intake, exhaust?).


----------



## Dimensive

Got my EVOLV ITX in today. Looking forward to building with this!


----------



## Native89

Got my Luxe in yesterday and this thing is a beast compared to my old Thermaltake.
Ample room, filters everywhere, and very good looking.

But has anyone had a problem with their front panel USB3 ports? Leftmost one seems to be dead. Others work fine though.


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Native89*
> 
> Got my Luxe in yesterday and this thing is a beast compared to my old Thermaltake.
> Ample room, filters everywhere, and very good looking.
> 
> But has anyone had a problem with their front panel USB3 ports? Leftmost one seems to be dead. Others work fine though.


yea, this happened with mine. customer support sent me out a front panel quickly.


----------



## Native89

Thanks. I'll get to it in the morning.

Did I mention how much I love the case?
Considering picking up a light strip or two to pierce through the tinted window.


----------



## dee2dee

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *owcraftsman*
> 
> I'd have to disagree with Rainmaker on the kit the raystorm cpu block is way better than the alphacool. I'd get the 420 kit and add an alphacool 240 rad if it were me. Also I'd have to agree with the 2x 120 per component rule for having plenty of head room but you really should calculate the actual wattage you will be dissipating if you want to be sure. You may find this link helpful " http://www.overclock.net/t/1457426/radiator-size-estimator/0_50 " In this case I think a 420 and 240 would be sufficient especially considering the GK110's efficiency (420x140)+(240x120)=87600 sq. mm. 360+360x120=86400 sq. mm of surface area approx. as you can see the 420+240 combo actually has a bit more area by 1200 sq. mm. of course this is a general calculation not exact and different rad will vary but all will be very close to that. GL with your build you'll find lots of answers here try search.


Thanks. So I ended up getting a 240, and a hw labs 420x54mm rad, and an extra 140mm single thin rad for the back. I was initial gonna do the kit to try to save money, but I decided that the "money savings" was mild, and I didn't want to end up wanting more. Might as well spend a little extra and get it right the first time. Went with the raystorm block and a d5 pump with a tube res instead of a bay res. Everything should be showing up this week -- the case showed up last night.

I have to say, seeing pictures and videos of the luxe does it no justice. You just can't get a sense of how well the thing is constructed that way. I'm really impressed.

On the downside, I think I discovered the hard way that sidewinder computers is umm, out of business? They are still taking orders on their site, but, they don't answer emails, calls, and haven't shipped my order. Not sure how I'm gonna get my money back for the tubing I ordered from them. Yuk.


----------



## pcrevolution

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dimensive*
> 
> Got my EVOLV ITX in today. Looking forward to building with this!


It's gonna be sleek!!!

But I can't say the same about that USB3.0 header placement on the Stinger..


----------



## Dimensive

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pcrevolution*
> 
> It's gonna be sleek!!!
> 
> But I can't say the same about that USB3.0 header placement on the Stinger..


Oh crap, I didn't even notice the USB 3.0 placement. I suppose I'll need to stop by the store and get an extension to be on the safe side.


----------



## pcrevolution

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dimensive*
> 
> Oh crap, I didn't even notice the USB 3.0 placement. I suppose I'll need to stop by the store and get an extension to be on the safe side.


I think it's gonna be tough. The best looking way would definitely be from bottom-up under your GPU. But the twenty pin header with its double cable would be a pain to bend it to fit.

How about via top-down while keeping it below the shroud?


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrPatate*
> 
> Thanks for the info. Could you clarify your last sentence please? Just to be sure of how yours was setup (top, bottom fans? intake, exhaust?).


I had front 200mm intake, 2 120mm on drive cages as intake pushing to the gpu. Than a 140 I take on the bottom next to the psu, all three top panel were I take and than I had the back as exhaust. I also had push pull lined up with the back exhaust on my enermax heatsink. It worked good for air cooling and the bottom mounted fan and drive cage fans really helped with load gpu temps. This picture is after I installed my aio for the cpu but it was an enermax air cooled push pull heat sink but everything else was the same (this was before I got carried away and my wallet became paper thin lol).


----------



## Dimensive

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pcrevolution*
> 
> I think it's gonna be tough. The best looking way would definitely be from bottom-up under your GPU. But the twenty pin header with its double cable would be a pain to bend it to fit.
> 
> How about via top-down while keeping it below the shroud?


Yea, I will have to play with it because I don't really want it going across the top of the GPU, unless I have no choice.


----------



## pcrevolution

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dimensive*
> 
> Yea, I will have to play with it because I don't really want it going across the top of the GPU, unless I have no choice.


I meant from the top of the motherboard. Post pics when you are done!


----------



## Dimensive

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pcrevolution*
> 
> I meant from the top of the motherboard. Post pics when you are done!


Yea, but if I can't do that I will most likely have to run it across the GPU.


----------



## MrPatate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> I had front 200mm intake, 2 120mm on drive cages as intake pushing to the gpu. Than a 140 I take on the bottom next to the psu, all three top panel were I take and than I had the back as exhaust. I also had push pull lined up with the back exhaust on my enermax heatsink. It worked good for air cooling and the bottom mounted fan and drive cage fans really helped with load gpu temps. This picture is after I installed my aio for the cpu but it was an enermax air cooled push pull heat sink but everything else was the same (this was before I got carried away and my wallet became paper thin lol).


Thanks!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Native89*
> 
> Did I mention how much I love the case?
> Considering picking up a light strip or two to pierce through the tinted window.


I know what you mean, I have the Luxe and really love it as well. I'm so impressed with the quality that I want only phantek stuff in it (cpu cooler, fans, etc).

The case looks so clean with the PSU cover and the cable management, it's worth lighting it. Never had a windowed case before, but after seeing how clean builds were on this thread choosing the window version was a no brainer.
Here's my _*very basic*_ build so far, never had such a clean looking case before.

Still need to get a real CPU cooler and a GPU. But with 7 HDDs and 1 SSD, I'm really impressed with the cable management.


----------



## maddnotez

Hey everyone,

I was hoping to find some air cooling info on here. I have been reading and seeing some different set ups and with over 9,000 pages to read through it is getting complicated.

I had a few questions and was hoping for opinions and suggestions.

I have the Enthoo Pro with the two stock fans and I want to get the absolute best air flow possible. I am just unsure of the basic noob questions. How many fans, where to put them and intake or exhuast?

I'd prefer to keep the stock fans but honestly if it is a night and day difference I can replace them with other fans. I would really like white fans with white LED's so I have been looking at some of those fans.

What do you all think I should do for my cooling setup?

Also, I like the PSU cover. I am willing to get rid of it if I have to but would prefer to keep it. With the cover on will adding a bottom fan even help at all?


----------



## MrPatate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *maddnotez*
> 
> Hey everyone,
> 
> I was hoping to find some air cooling info on here. I have been reading and seeing some different set ups and with over 9,000 pages to read through it is getting complicated.
> 
> I had a few questions and was hoping for opinions and suggestions.
> 
> I have the Enthoo Pro with the two stock fans and I want to get the absolute best air flow possible. I am just unsure of the basic noob questions. How many fans, where to put them and intake or exhuast?
> 
> I'd prefer to keep the stock fans but honestly if it is a night and day difference I can replace them with other fans. I would really like white fans with white LED's so I have been looking at some of those fans.
> 
> What do you all think I should do for my cooling setup?
> 
> Also, I like the PSU cover. I am willing to get rid of it if I have to but would prefer to keep it. With the cover on will adding a bottom fan even help at all?


We are on the same boat, I have the Luxe and will start investing in cooling soon.

If you want check, I had a similar conversation with "Doyl", starting at post 9332 (page 934 for me) which lasted on a few pages and than continued with "emjs86" (just a page or 2 back). So you don't have to read much. I have read the entire thread before buying (it had 800+ pages lol) and people here almost exclusively talk about WC.

Personally removing the PSU cover is a not an option, I chose this case because how cleaned it looked and 50% of that is thanks to the cover.
I'll try Doyl's suggestion but the bottom 140mm will be mostly blocked by the cover so maybe switch the top 200mm as an intake.

But I'll also try my first idea of positive pressure, which is:
Front: 2x140mm Intake
HDD cages: 2x120mm "intake" (to create a push/pull like a radiator but with HDDs in between)
Top: 2 or 3x140mm (I might try at first the 200mm to keep cost down) as intake
Back: 1x140mm exhaust

Feel free to share your ideas as well.


----------



## maddnotez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrPatate*
> 
> We are on the same boat, I have the Luxe and will start investing in cooling soon.
> 
> If you want check, I had a similar conversation with "Doyl", starting at post 9332 (page 934 for me) which lasted on a few pages and than continued with "emjs86" (just a page or 2 back). So you don't have to read much. I have read the entire thread before buying (it had 800+ pages lol) and people here almost exclusively talk about WC.
> 
> Personally removing the PSU cover is a not an option, I chose this case because how cleaned it looked and 50% of that is thanks to the cover.
> I'll try Doyl's suggestion but the bottom 140mm will be mostly blocked by the cover so maybe switch the top 200mm as an intake.
> 
> But I'll also try my first idea of positive pressure, which is:
> Front: 2x140mm Intake
> HDD cages: 2x120mm "intake" (to create a push/pull like a radiator but with HDDs in between)
> Top: 2 or 3x140mm (I might try at first the 200mm to keep cost down) as intake
> Back: 1x140mm exhaust
> 
> Feel free to share your ideas as well.


Thanks for the reply, I will check those pages out and wow that is alot of intake. What made you want to try that.

From what I have read so far, Most people want thetop fans as exhuast since heat rises.


----------



## MrPatate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *maddnotez*
> 
> Thanks for the reply, I will check those pages out and wow that is alot of intake. What made you want to try that.
> 
> From what I have read so far, Most people want thetop fans as exhuast since heat rises.


Positive pressure setup are mostly made of intakes and very few exhaust so air goes out of every little holes which help keeping dust out. Since this case as filters on ALL fan holes except the back one I figured maybe Phanteks designed it that way (I can be wrong, that's way I say "try" in my last post).

Heat rises yes and no. Technically yes, but when you talk about air flow/air circulation, the air follows the route you give it.

But like I said my idea might not work, maybe the air flow will not work as I expect. The top and bottom air being pushed towards each other might just collide and only some part will get pulled out at the back instead of the clean air flow lines I have in my head...

That's why I'll try with cheap 5$ fans instead of 20$ fans at first.


----------



## EdTheHead

I have owned my enthoo pro for about a month now, and I feel like I've come to a pretty good setup for my fans after trying a few configurations. I, too, did not want to remove the PSU cover, but I wanted to utilize the bottom fan mounts, and I felt the PSU cover restricted the fan mount closest to the PSU. My first fan configuration was 2 140XP's in the front, moved my 200mm to the top and kept the 140sp in the rear. My next configuration was two 120mm's on the HDD cages. I did this upon seeing posts about it helping GPU temps, and it indeed did. I've since changed my fan configuration again, and I feel like where I have settled, is a great for my particular setup.

My current setup is:
1 140XP for the rear exhaust
1 140XP for top exhaust
2 140XP for front intake
1 AP-15 for front bottom intake
1 AP-15 for top HDD cage

I had previously kept the 140SP that came with the case as a second exhaust for the top, but I later took it out as I felt the bottom 120mm fan I had was already struggling a little, and made the pressure of the case slightly negative. Also, with my top HDD cage pulling air from the front, I felt the second fan I put as exhaust was just cancelling out the effect of the 120mm on my HDD cage. I'm using the PWM variants of the phanteks 140mm fans due to all my mobo headers supporting PWM, but the SP versions will do just fine.

In my opinion, the best setup without having to spend too much extra on fans, as suggested here quite a few times, is to move the 200mm up to the top exhaust, and depending if you have the luxe or the pro, buying either 1 or 2 more 140mm fans to have 2 in front intake.

Hope you two find your ideal fan configuration for your particular setup.


----------



## koiking

Here's my beloved Evolv. Just got the cablemod cable set for my PSU. such a waste with the hiding cover but good anyway.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrPatate*
> 
> Heat rises yes and no. Technically yes, but when you talk about air flow/air circulation, the air follows the route you give it.


Heat radiates, it does not rise. But when air is heated it expands becoming less dense and if no other forces are involved will rise above the denser heavier cool air around it. With the use of fans the "hot air rises" myth is false.


----------



## MrPatate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EdTheHead*
> 
> I have owned my enthoo pro for about a month now, and I feel like I've come to a pretty good setup for my fans after trying a few configurations. I, too, did not want to remove the PSU cover, but I wanted to utilize the bottom fan mounts, and I felt the PSU cover restricted the fan mount closest to the PSU. My first fan configuration was 2 140XP's in the front, moved my 200mm to the top and kept the 140sp in the rear. My next configuration was two 120mm's on the HDD cages. I did this upon seeing posts about it helping GPU temps, and it indeed did. I've since changed my fan configuration again, and I feel like where I have settled, is a great for my particular setup.
> 
> My current setup is:
> 1 140XP for the rear exhaust
> 1 140XP for top exhaust
> 2 140XP for front intake
> 1 AP-15 for front bottom intake
> 1 AP-15 for top HDD cage
> 
> I had previously kept the 140SP that came with the case as a second exhaust for the top, but I later took it out as I felt the bottom 120mm fan I had was already struggling a little, and made the pressure of the case slightly negative. Also, with my top HDD cage pulling air from the front, I felt the second fan I put as exhaust was just cancelling out the effect of the 120mm on my HDD cage. I'm using the PWM variants of the phanteks 140mm fans due to all my mobo headers supporting PWM, but the SP versions will do just fine.
> 
> In my opinion, the best setup without having to spend too much extra on fans, as suggested here quite a few times, is to move the 200mm up to the top exhaust, and depending if you have the luxe or the pro, buying either 1 or 2 more 140mm fans to have 2 in front intake.
> 
> Hope you two find your ideal fan configuration for your particular setup.


Thank you for sharing your test. Have you tried top intake as well? I suppose your top exhaust is at the back?
I wonder if better temps could be achieved by sealing the other 2 top fan mount when exhausting at top. Something I'll try with some painter's tape to test.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Heat radiates, it does not rise. But when air is heated it expands becoming less dense and if no other forces are involved will rise above the denser heavier cool air around it. With the use of fans the "hot air rises" myth is false.


Basically what I said, but in cleverer terms








I didn't want to explain it scientifically, it would have taken me a few lines compared to your version (my english isn't very good, so I try to keep stuff simple).
Although its a myth, very bad air flow often create pocket of hot air at the top of some case (because of dust, bad case design, etc)


----------



## maddnotez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EdTheHead*
> 
> I have owned my enthoo pro for about a month now, and I feel like I've come to a pretty good setup for my fans after trying a few configurations. I, too, did not want to remove the PSU cover, but I wanted to utilize the bottom fan mounts, and I felt the PSU cover restricted the fan mount closest to the PSU. My first fan configuration was 2 140XP's in the front, moved my 200mm to the top and kept the 140sp in the rear. My next configuration was two 120mm's on the HDD cages. I did this upon seeing posts about it helping GPU temps, and it indeed did. I've since changed my fan configuration again, and I feel like where I have settled, is a great for my particular setup.
> 
> My current setup is:
> 1 140XP for the rear exhaust
> 1 140XP for top exhaust
> 2 140XP for front intake
> 1 AP-15 for front bottom intake
> 1 AP-15 for top HDD cage
> 
> I had previously kept the 140SP that came with the case as a second exhaust for the top, but I later took it out as I felt the bottom 120mm fan I had was already struggling a little, and made the pressure of the case slightly negative. Also, with my top HDD cage pulling air from the front, I felt the second fan I put as exhaust was just cancelling out the effect of the 120mm on my HDD cage. I'm using the PWM variants of the phanteks 140mm fans due to all my mobo headers supporting PWM, but the SP versions will do just fine.
> 
> In my opinion, the best setup without having to spend too much extra on fans, as suggested here quite a few times, is to move the 200mm up to the top exhaust, and depending if you have the luxe or the pro, buying either 1 or 2 more 140mm fans to have 2 in front intake.
> 
> Hope you two find your ideal fan configuration for your particular setup.


Awesome, and thanks.

Just curious. With the fan on the bottom..Is it possible to keep the PSU cover on and have the fan do anything at all?


----------



## EdTheHead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *maddnotez*
> 
> Awesome, and thanks.
> 
> Just curious. With the fan on the bottom..Is it possible to keep the PSU cover on and have the fan do anything at all?


For me, I have a 290x lightning that loves the cool air, so I initially did it without the PSU cover, but after staring at the psu for a while, I got sick of it and put the cover back on.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *maddnotez*
> 
> Awesome, and thanks.
> 
> Just curious. With the fan on the bottom..Is it possible to keep the PSU cover on and have the fan do anything at all?


I wondered about that. I figure, if anything it would contribute to the air pressure inside the case, even though it won't do much as far as airflow. I only have one of the HDD cages in, so I have only the frontmost bottom slot taken up with a fan. Maybe someone with more knowledge on the subject can chime in.

It's a shame, because the PSU cover really makes the case come together inside for me, and it renders the fan mount directly under it somewhat useless.


----------



## emsj86

If you up for modding. You can always cut the psu cover down and have best of both worlds. The fan on the bottom and a cover for the psu. Now I know it does look good going all the way across but figure I throw in the option


----------



## atoff

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrPatate*
> 
> Does the addition of filters really help? There's room between the grill and the fans, pretty sure the air/dust will simply go around the filters no?
> Personally I'll probably disassemble the top grill (its just 6-8 folded metal tabs holding it in place), slide a better filter (pantyhose maybe lol) and install the mesh back.
> Wow with all those problem I would have return that case in a heartbeat and get another one from another supplier (less chance of trouble if its a defective batch). The window is easily fixed, but the paint with finger print is a pain.


Phanteks has some great customer support though. I just had a chance to call them up a couple of days ago, sent a picture today as was requested, and I'm being sent a replacement for the LED's, as well as the PCB. So, should take care of that! I just need to figure out how to take it apart, and replace, which hopefully shouldn't be too difficult.


----------



## Dimensive

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pcrevolution*
> 
> I meant from the top of the motherboard. Post pics when you are done!


So, I can't run the USB 3.0 cable under the shroud. I had to run it from the top of the motherboard down. I suppose with an extension I could run it through the side and have it sit above the GPU, but I dunno how that will look.


----------



## MrPatate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *atoff*
> 
> I just need to figure out how to take it apart, and replace, which hopefully shouldn't be too difficult.


Disassembling everything is very easy on this case, you won't have a problem.


----------



## Necrocis85

I'm looking at the Evolv matx case, and was wondering if an EVGA G2 850W PSU will fit with the hard drive bay installed. Anyone with similar hardware?


----------



## MrPatate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Necrocis85*
> 
> I'm looking at the Evolv matx case, and was wondering if an EVGA G2 850W PSU will fit with the hard drive bay installed. Anyone with similar hardware?


From official website: http://www.phanteks.com/enthoo-evolv.html
"Removable HDD cage for installation of long PSU's (>180mm) / waterpump"

The G2 is180mm long. And pretty sure it's not with cables connected.

Not at home right now, but if no one answers your question, I could open my case and check my G2 850W later.


----------



## VulgarDisplay88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Necrocis85*
> 
> I'm looking at the Evolv matx case, and was wondering if an EVGA G2 850W PSU will fit with the hard drive bay installed. Anyone with similar hardware?


I've got a 750 G2 and the hard drive cages installed. It's a tight fit but it works. I believe the 750 and 850 are the same size.


----------



## MrPatate

According to EVGA's website they are both 85mm (H) x 150mm (W) x 180mm (L).


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Necrocis85*
> 
> I'm looking at the Evolv matx case, and was wondering if an EVGA G2 850W PSU will fit with the hard drive bay installed. Anyone with similar hardware?


go for the 850 GS instead, it's smaller.


----------



## MrPatate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PureBlackFire*
> 
> go for the 850 GS instead, it's smaller.


And it has a good review from Jonny.
http://www.jonnyguru.com/modules.php?name=NDReviews&op=Story6&reid=414


----------



## chas1723

I'm looking at the lux. Would a 45mm 360 rad block the 5 1/4 bay or would I have functionality to put in bluray player and bay res?


----------



## Necrocis85

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PureBlackFire*
> 
> go for the 850 GS instead, it's smaller.


I already own the 850W G2, thats why I ask. Browsing this thread since I asked, I saw a picture of one showing a AX1200 installed with the hard drive bay, so I think the 850W would work.


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chas1723*
> 
> I'm looking at the lux. Would a 45mm 360 rad block the 5 1/4 bay or would I have functionality to put in bluray player and bay res?


it will be fine with one set of fans and won't block any of the 5.25" bays.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Necrocis85*
> 
> I already own the 850W G2, thats why I ask. Browsing this thread since I asked, I saw a picture of one showing a AX1200 installed with the hard drive bay, so I think the 850W would work.


okay.


----------



## maddnotez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> If you up for modding. You can always cut the psu cover down and have best of both worlds. The fan on the bottom and a cover for the psu. Now I know it does look good going all the way across but figure I throw in the option


Not sure if I could pull that off cleanly.

I was thinking however to be able to find a 3.5" Bracket for my HDD and somehow mount it to the 2.5" SSD Bracket slot in the back and then just use the lower SSD space for my SSD and this way I will be able to remove both HDD cages.


----------



## MrPatate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *maddnotez*
> 
> Not sure if I could pull that off cleanly.
> 
> I was thinking however to be able to find a 3.5" Bracket for my HDD and somehow mount it to the 2.5" SSD Bracket slot in the back and then just use the lower SSD space for my SSD and this way I will be able to remove both HDD cages.


It would be simpler to put your hdd in the 5.25" odd bay.


----------



## Trestles126

Here's where I mounted my 1tb HDD I used the supplied plastic cage modded it a bit and used 3m double sided tape on the outside of the 5.25 bay



Left me more room for my aquaero 6 cable management

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrPatate*
> 
> It would be simpler to put your hdd in the 5.25" odd bay.


----------



## Trestles126

And also kept the viewable part clean not that the 5.25 bay wouldn't as well


----------



## chrisnyc75

Hi Guys







I haven't checked in here for awhile, but I wanted to stop by and give a big







to Phanteks for their continuing excellent customer care. I recently contacted Phanteks looking to replace my front panel latches & top panel as the latching mechanisms on both had broken. I sent pictures of the damaged hardware & a copy of my purchase receipt, and they promptly shipped replacements, no fuss no muss.







There was a little confusion as I have moved to a new address since I purchesed the Enthoo Primo, and they originally shipped the replacements to my old address. I emailed them and explained what had happened, and they immediately shipped a second package to my current address.

The moral of the story is: when you buy Phanteks, you can count on excellent support for the lifetime of your case.


----------



## redshoulder

My current case (350d) is damaged and it would cost quite a bit in replacement parts (half the case value), instead I am thinking of buying a new case I am interested in the evolv matx case and have a few questions.

I see there is only 4 pci brackets? Is sli possible (aircooled reference card gtx780) or would it be very cramped?


----------



## VulgarDisplay88

Possible and cramped.


----------



## redshoulder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VulgarDisplay88*
> 
> Possible and cramped.


When is the atx version of this been released?


----------



## pcrevolution

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *redshoulder*
> 
> My current case (350d) is damaged and it would cost quite a bit in replacement parts (half the case value), instead I am thinking of buying a new case I am interested in the evolv matx case and have a few questions.
> 
> I see there is only 4 pci brackets? Is sli possible (aircooled reference card gtx780) or would it be very cramped?


IMHO you are still limited by the PCI-E slot layout of your M6G. Which is two slots apart.

Your top card will still suffer but I believe that the mATX Evolv has a slight amount of space between Slot 4 and the PSU.


----------



## redshoulder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pcrevolution*
> 
> IMHO you are still limited by the PCI-E slot layout of your M6G. Which is two slots apart.
> 
> Your top card will still suffer but I believe that the mATX Evolv has a slight amount of space between Slot 4 and the PSU.


Yes, i have thought of this and might replace mainboard with atx version as this model seems to give cold boot problems.


----------



## Mark011

Evolv ITX arrived from Phanteks





new build incoming


----------



## pcrevolution

More pics of the build log please!


----------



## MrPatate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mark011*
> 
> Evolv ITX arrived from Phanteks
> 
> 
> 
> new build incoming


That's sexy! If only I had vertical space in my TV cabinet, I would change my dull HTPC case for that.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrPatate*
> 
> That's sexy! If only I had vertical space in my TV cabinet, I would change my dull HTPC case for that.


kinda reminds me of a hotel safe...lol


----------



## 031Dutch

Hello phanteks users.
i have a question are there people on this forum

That have the phanteks primo se red edition? I can not find any youtube clips or photo's with a build


----------



## maddnotez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrPatate*
> 
> It would be simpler to put your hdd in the 5.25" odd bay.


Couldn't understand where that odd bay is?


----------



## MrPatate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *maddnotez*
> 
> Couldn't understand where that odd bay is?


ODD bay: Optical Disc Drive bay

CD/DVD/5.25" slot


----------



## maddnotez

ok ty


----------



## emsj86

good to see alot of people using the phanteks evolv dont see it much here


----------



## emsj86

A few pictures of my new window mod and my new gpu. (It's Huss another 780). Removed my old one to bios hack and oc it. My ek plexi bridge will be here this week and than I'll drain and add both cards. Excited never sli. Always nervous to nvflash as there always a risk.


----------



## Krahe

Finally started completing my Primo build after a delay due to being put off work, must admit I nearly gave up on bending those bloody pipes. Hopefully receive the rest of the components early next week. Apologies for the poor quality photos

http://s25.photobucket.com/user/spritzen/media/DSCN0377_zpsjmhtnwki.jpg.html

Its a matrix of pipes

http://s25.photobucket.com/user/spritzen/media/DSCN0378_zpsf1sdarqp.jpg.html


----------



## aduman

Has anyone fitted a 480 rad on top of a Luxe? I'm probably going to get this if it's doable:

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/23379/ex-wat-300/XSPC_Raystorm_RX480_V3_Extreme_Universal_CPU_Water_Cooling_Kit_w_D5_Photon_and_Free_Dead-Water.html


----------



## Tunz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aduman*
> 
> Has anyone fitted a 480 rad on top of a Luxe? I'm probably going to get this if it's doable:
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/23379/ex-wat-300/XSPC_Raystorm_RX480_V3_Extreme_Universal_CPU_Water_Cooling_Kit_w_D5_Photon_and_Free_Dead-Water.html


The Luxe supports a 360 or 420 up top. A 480 won't fit.

@Krahe That's looks awesome, nice work!


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aduman*
> 
> Has anyone fitted a 480 rad on top of a Luxe? I'm probably going to get this if it's doable:
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/23379/ex-wat-300/XSPC_Raystorm_RX480_V3_Extreme_Universal_CPU_Water_Cooling_Kit_w_D5_Photon_and_Free_Dead-Water.html


somebody squeezed one in. it was slanted and looked nuts.


----------



## MrPatate

@Krahe This is really a clean look, I like it a lot.


----------



## cr1

Nice looking case-mods in this thread guys!!

I just got a Phanteks Pro...it looks like only the right-side of my Scythe fan-controller can be secured with a screw, leaving the left-side loose

Did I miss something?

The tool-less device on the left-side does not reach the fan-controller...

Thanks!


----------



## Dorito Bandit

Phanteks Enthoo Pro (White Version)

For those of you who have been waiting on the white Enthoo Pro to be back in stock, it's now available at Newegg. Here's the link if interested. http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811854005

Good luck getting one!


----------



## Reystar

White Phanteks are so hot


----------



## aduman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PureBlackFire*
> 
> somebody squeezed one in. it was slanted and looked nuts.


I can imagine lol I just did some measurements and realised how stupid it was to even ask here haha I guess I'll go for a 360 or a 420. Thanks for the clarification.


----------



## aduman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tunz*
> 
> The Luxe supports a 360 or 420 up top. A 480 won't fit.
> 
> @Krahe That's looks awesome, nice work!


Alright thanks for the info.


----------



## Dorito Bandit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dorito Bandit*
> 
> Phanteks Enthoo Pro (White Version)
> 
> For those of you who have been waiting on the white Enthoo Pro to be back in stock, it's now available at Newegg. Here's the link if interested. http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811854005
> 
> Good luck getting one!


And now it's out of stock again!


----------



## Tunz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dorito Bandit*
> 
> And now it's out of stock again!


Amazon has 3 left.
http://www.amazon.com/Phanteks-Enthoo-Tower-Chassis-PH-ES614P_WT/dp/B00LW3X1PA/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1429490638&sr=8-3&keywords=enthoo+pro


----------



## MrPatate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cr1*
> 
> Nice looking case-mods in this thread guys!!
> 
> I just got a Phanteks Pro...it looks like only the right-side of my Scythe fan-controller can be secured with a screw, leaving the left-side loose
> 
> Did I miss something?
> 
> The tool-less device on the left-side does not reach the fan-controller...
> 
> Thanks!


I believe the tool-less bracket can be removed to have access to the front screw holes.


----------



## cr1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrPatate*
> 
> I believe the tool-less bracket can be removed to have access to the front screw holes.


I'll take another look at that









+Rep


----------



## atoff

So I finally had a chance to cut up the 2M LED kit I bought. Cut them into strips so I could mount them inwards, so they're not visible, but I miscalculated the wire length for the top right strip, so as you can see it's sticking out, and far too visible. My OCD is attacking me right now!!







:









My back is killing me, and I've attached them with a pretty strong adhesive, so it would take quite a bit of work, which would cause quite a bit of pain, to fix. How much would something like that bother YOU?


----------



## MrPatate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *atoff*
> 
> So I finally had a chance to cut up the 2M LED kit I bought. Cut them into strips so I could mount them inwards, so they're not visible, but I miscalculated the wire length for the top right strip, so as you can see it's sticking out, and far too visible. My OCD is attacking me right now!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> :
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My back is killing me, and I've attached them with a pretty strong adhesive, so it would take quite a bit of work, which would cause quite a bit of pain, to fix. How much would something like that bother YOU?


The picture is small (even if I click on it), but at the top right corner I don't see any cable at all. I can see the bottom right cable which could be the fan cable? If that is the cable you are talking about, it would be easier to lengthen the wire by cutting it in the middle and solder a new cable in between(with heat shrink) instead of removing the entire strip.

Is it easy to cut and solder wires to them? I'd like to do that as well since it will help fit the psu cover easily and go next to the rear fan but my soldering skills are aweful (shaky hands).


----------



## atoff

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrPatate*
> 
> The picture is small (even if I click on it), but at the top right corner I don't see any cable at all. I can see the bottom right cable which could be the fan cable?
> 
> Is it easy to cut and solder wires to them? I'd like to do that as well since it will help fit the psu cover easily and go next to the rear fan but my soldering skills are aweful (shaky hands).


I edited my post with the full pic. It's not the wire that showing, it's the LED strip. You can't see any of them right? But the one on the top right is sticking out. It's not hidden like the others. I basically cut the wires too short and didn't realize it until I was attaching all of the strips.

Soldering the kit is a little annoying because the plastic gummy casing is kind of fused on to the inner strip. That means you have to cut a notch in the plastic to reveal the solder pads, then burn off the stuck on plastic. After that it's fairly simple, but I used to do professional hand soldering on tiny IC's... so these pads seem massive to me.


----------



## MrPatate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *atoff*
> 
> I edited my post with the full pic. It's not the wire that showing, it's the LED strip. You can't see any of them right? But the one on the top right is sticking out. It's not hidden like the others. I basically cut the wires too short and didn't realize it until I was attaching all of the strips.
> 
> Soldering the kit is a little annoying because the plastic gummy casing is kind of fused on to the inner strip. That means you have to cut a notch in the plastic to reveal the solder pads, then burn off the stuck on plastic. After that it's fairly simple, but I used to do professional hand soldering on tiny IC's... so these pads seem massive to me.


Nope can't see anything around but the small one in the 5.25'' bay yes, when you know what to look for and are at 1' away it maybe visible, but from that picture and from 3', nobody will see it.

I bet those solder will look tiny to me lol. Did you simply put wires in between the cuts you've made or made long cables and connected the strips in parallel at the connector?


----------



## atoff

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrPatate*
> 
> Nope can't see anything around but the small one in the 5.25'' bay yes, when you know what to look for and are at 1' away it maybe visible, but from that picture and from 3', nobody will see it.
> 
> I bet those solder will look tiny to me lol. Did you simply put wires in between the cuts you've made or made long cables and connected the strips in parallel at the connector?


lol And yet, it's all I can stare at. It's taunting me.

Basically, I cut up an old ATA cable which had some nice wire, then soldered the wire end to end. No connectors or anything fancy, but I did hot glue the ends to make sure that the wires wouldn't break at the weak point, then I heatshrunk the ends so that they're nice and clean.


----------



## ssgtnubb

So I had a crazy spurt, got a Enthoo Primo on order, major change over my 540 and will really let me dive into the water. Didn't realize how big the case was until watching Jayztwocents lol

God my wife is going to kill me lol


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ssgtnubb*
> 
> So I had a crazy spurt, got a Enthoo Primo on order, major change over my 540 and will really let me dive into the water. Didn't realize how big the case was until watching Jayztwocents lol
> 
> God my wife is going to kill me lol


That thing is huge even compared to my pro... but i do want one.. just for the ease of watecoolilng i would hand this pro down to fiancee... even though she doesnt care what her pc looks like as long as it works.. its a big upgrade to the crappy apevia case she got handed down last time :0


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ssgtnubb*
> 
> So I had a crazy spurt, got a Enthoo Primo on order, major change over my 540 and will really let me dive into the water. Didn't realize how big the case was until watching Jayztwocents lol
> 
> God my wife is going to kill me lol


Yeah, you can barely fit it under a desk







It does look excellent however, so hopefully your wife can see the beauty in it and not just the size.


----------



## ssgtnubb

It'll be going on the top of my desk, thankfully it's built well lol.


----------



## MrGrievous

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ssgtnubb*
> 
> It'll be going on the top of my desk, thankfully it's built well lol.


In current events today man stuck underneath a crushed desk from setting his pc on top from the desk unable to burden the massive weight. Lol sorry


----------



## MrPatate

*USB-C for Enthoo Pro/Luxe*

I've contacted Phanteks about USB-C and if they will release a replacement I/O 5.25" bay for the front panel with USB-C.
Their answer:
Quote:


> In the future there might be the possibility to upgrade the USB ports on the Luxe. We will have to wait to see when the new USB-C becomes more of the mainstream device.


So basically there is a possibility but don't hold your breath.
I really hope they will release it, it would help make the case "future proof" without ugly aftermarket front panel bay. (As future proof as something can be of course).


----------



## KaffieneKing

Thought I'd take a new pic of my rig and so gonna post it here!



Just my current rig, got a 4770K recently on ebay which will be going into it when it arrives. I also need to finish soldering up the LEDs and infrared receiver dimmer (had them installed for ages but not wired up as I ran out of solder and haven't ordered anymore).

Enjoy!


----------



## Dimensive

Finished my EVOLV ITX build.

Motherboard: EVGA Z97 Stinger Wi-Fi
CPU: Intel i5-4670K
RAM: 16GB G.SKILL Sniper Series DDR3 2400MHz
GPU: MSI GTX 970 GAMING 4G


----------



## COMBO2

Thought I'd share the setup around here, see what you guys think! The build has been as so for about 6/7 months and I got the glasstop desks a few months after that. This is my second Primo, had a black one first time around which is now apart of the rig my parents use.


----------



## EdTheHead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *COMBO2*
> 
> Thought I'd share the setup around here, see what you guys think! The build has been as so for about 6/7 months and I got the glasstop desks a few months after that. This is my second Primo, had a black one first time around which is now apart of the rig my parents use.


Great looking build, makes me wish I went with a white case everytime I see you all with white Phanteks cases!


----------



## Faster_is_better

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EdTheHead*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *COMBO2*
> 
> Thought I'd share the setup around here, see what you guys think! The build has been as so for about 6/7 months and I got the glasstop desks a few months after that. This is my second Primo, had a black one first time around which is now apart of the rig my parents use.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Great looking build, makes me wish I went with a white case everytime I see you all with white Phanteks cases!
Click to expand...

That white one does look really good. White gets to show off a bit more since everything is so bright and visible.


----------



## EdTheHead

Oh yea, I totally agree. I'm considering getting some LED lighting now hehe


----------



## COMBO2

Thanks guys. After having both I definitely prefer the white. IMO it has a level of sophistication and oomph that the black generally doesn't (but of course that is a generalisation and depends heavily on the system builder!)









+ it doesn't get as visibly dirty as often haha


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *COMBO2*
> 
> Thanks guys. After having both I definitely prefer the white. IMO it has a level of sophistication and oomph that the black generally doesn't (but of course that is a generalisation and depends heavily on the system builder!)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> + it doesn't get as visibly dirty as often haha


my house is dusty and old.. the white would look horrific after a week or so :0


----------



## bryce2113

Hi all,

This is a new build but I used some of my old components. I have also wanted a tricked out theme case and finally I have one. I present .... THE GREEN HORNET!

PCPartPicker completed build

*CPU:* Intel Core i5-2500K 3.3GHz Quad-Core Processor
*CPU Cooler:* Corsair H100i 77.0 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler
*Motherboard:* Asus P8Z68-V PRO/GEN3 ATX LGA1155 Motherboard
*Memory:* G.Skill Sniper Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1866 Memory
*Memory:* G.Skill Sniper Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1866 Memory
*Storage:* Corsair Force Series GT 120GB 2.5" Solid State Drive
*Storage:* Seagate 4TB 3.5" 5900RPM Hybrid Internal Hard Drive
*Video Card:* EVGA GeForce GTX 650 Ti Boost 2GB Video Card (2-Way SLI)
*Video Card:* EVGA GeForce GTX 650 Ti Boost 2GB Video Card (2-Way SLI)
*Case:* Phanteks Enthoo Primo ATX Full Tower Case
*Power Supply:* Corsair Professional 850W 80+ Gold Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply
*Operating System:* Microsoft Windows 8.1 (OEM) (64-bit)
*Case Fan:* Cougar Dual-X 73.2 CFM 140mm Fan
*Case Fan:* Cougar Dual-X 73.2 CFM 140mm Fan
*Case Fan:* Cougar Dual-X 73.2 CFM 140mm Fan
*Case Fan:* Cougar Dual-X 73.2 CFM 140mm Fan
*Case Fan:* Cougar Dual-X 64.4 CFM 120mm Fan
*Case Fan:* Cougar Dual-X 64.4 CFM 120mm Fan
*Case Fan:* Cougar Dual-X 64.4 CFM 120mm Fan
*Case Fan:* Cougar Dual-X 64.4 CFM 120mm Fan
*Case Accessory:* NZXT Hue LED Controller

*Here are my planned upgrades in the near future:*

- Full custom water cooling loop
- Find a way to have a led backlit green hornet logo on the front panel
- Upgrade to two GTX 980s (w/ water bl
- Upgrade to latest gen Intel CPU and get Mobo with matching color scheme

If you have any suggestions on WC parts that will go well with the theme, please let me know. I hope to finish my upgrades in the Fall.


----------



## Mark011

Project EVO sponsored by Phanteks, wrapped some parts in white







\

hope you like it.


----------



## Dimensive

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mark011*
> 
> Project EVO sponsored by Phanteks, wrapped some parts in white
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> \
> 
> 
> 
> hope you like it.


I like it! What hardware do you plan on putting in there?


----------



## Mark011

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dimensive*
> 
> I like it! What hardware do you plan on putting in there?


CPU: INTEL i7 4790K
MB: ASUS Z97 MAXIMUS IMPACT VII
RAM: ?
VGA: RADEON R9 290X
SSD: PX-G128M6e + 2x HyperX 3K 120gb Raid 0
HDD: 2x 2Tb WD Green
PSU: ?
CASE: PHANTEKS EVOLV ITX

and a custom liquid cooling loop


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mark011*
> 
> CPU: INTEL i7 4790K
> MB: ASUS Z97 MAXIMUS IMPACT VII
> RAM: ?
> VGA: RADEON R9 290X
> SSD: PX-G128M6e + 2x HyperX 3K 120gb Raid 0
> HDD: 2x 2Tb WD Green
> PSU: ?
> CASE: PHANTEKS EVOLV ITX
> 
> and a custom liquid cooling loop


You are not going to need more then a 550 watt PSU unless you are going to volt mod the BIOS on the 290x or add more then one 290x.


----------



## Mark011

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> You are not going to need more then a 550 watt PSU unless you are going to volt mod the BIOS on the 290x or add more then one 290x.


Well, can't SLI on ITX mate ehehe btw i got a spare Cooler Master V1200 and a Seasonic 860W, but i'm planning of use the new Snow Silent 750W from Seasonic


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mark011*
> 
> Well, can't SLI on ITX mate ehehe btw i got a spare Cooler Master V1200 and a Seasonic 860W, but i'm planning of use the new Snow Silent 750W from Seasonic


You dont need anywhwere near 750 watts unless you are going to volt mod the BIOS on your 290x.
And there is no 750 watt version of the the Seasonic Snow Silent there is only the 1050 watt version.


----------



## VulgarDisplay88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> You dont need anywhwere near 750 watts unless you are going to volt mod the BIOS on your 290x.
> And there is no 750 watt version of the the Seasonic Snow Silent there is only the 1050 watt version.


http://www.seasonicusa.com/SnowSilent%20Series.htm


----------



## Mark011

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> You dont need anywhwere near 750 watts unless you are going to volt mod the BIOS on your 290x.
> And there is no 750 watt version of the the Seasonic Snow Silent there is only the 1050 watt version.


I know i won't need more than 600w, but i like to stay large, in this way the psu is not stressed and will be fanless, and there is a 750w version of the snow silent http://www.seasonicusa.com/SnowSilent%20Series.htm


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VulgarDisplay88*
> 
> http://www.seasonicusa.com/SnowSilent%20Series.htm


Its just the old KM3 in a new case its not all that much better.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mark011*
> 
> I know i won't need more than 600w, but i like to stay large, in this way the psu is not stressed and will be fanless, and there is a 750w version of the snow silent http://www.seasonicusa.com/SnowSilent%20Series.htm


Power draw on your system wont even be 350 watts so i dont know where you got 600 watts from but thats not anywhere close.
Again you dont need more then 550 watts unless you are going to volt mod the BIOS on your 290x, why does everyone think modern PC hardware use a ton of power?

Hell most high end systems with overclocks on everything and a full water setup a bunch of fans and a pump and lots of HDD´s dont even break 350 watts.

Again 550 watts and you will have at least 150 watt if not as much 250 watt headroom, you dont need more the laws of physics has not changed all of a sudden


----------



## Mark011

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> Its just the old KM3 in a new case its not all that much better.
> Power draw on your system wont even be 350 watts so i dont know where you got 600 watts from but thats not anywhere close.
> Again you dont need more then 550 watts unless you are going to volt mod the BIOS on your 290x, why does everyone think modern PC hardware use a ton of power?
> 
> Hell most high end systems with overclocks on everything and a full water setup a bunch of fans and a pump and lots of HDD´s dont even break 350 watts.
> 
> Again 550 watts and you will have at least 150 watt if not as much 250 watt headroom, you dont need more the laws of physics has not changed all of a sudden


My enthoo primo build use 350w (from apc ups display) with a gtx 770, watercooling stuff, 4790k,12 fans etc.., i don't need to be explained that modern pc does not need so mutch power because i know, i'm telling you that i prefer to stay large, so the psu is not stressed and will work fanless, gotcha?









also as AMD specifications an 290x needs a 750w psu


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mark011*
> 
> My enthoo primo build use 350w (from apc ups display) with a gtx 770, watercooling stuff, 4790k,12 fans etc.., i don't need to be explained that modern pc does not need so mutch power because i know, i'm telling you that i prefer to stay large, so the psu is not stressed and will work fanless, gotcha?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> also as AMD specifications an 290x needs a 750w psu


AMD specifications are based on a peak rated PSU not continuous rated PSU which means you can knock 25-30% off the number they give you.
And if your old system used 350 watt and you got that number from the wall then your are mistaken your system did not use 350 watt you need to take the efficiency of your PSU off the number you get from the wall.

If it has 90% then you need to take 10% off which means it used 315 watts not 350 watts, if it has 80% efficiency then you need to take 20% off so the number is 280 watts not 350 watts and so on.
But if you want to waste your money for no reason at all go ahead i am just trying to tell you that you dont need to and you can save some money.

Hell you can even buy a 500 watt fanless PSU if you like fanless so much that way you get zero noise even at high loads


----------



## Mark011

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> AMD specifications are based on a peak rated PSU not continuous rated PSU which means you can knock 25-30% off the number they give you.
> And if your old system used 350 watt and you got that number from the wall then your are mistaken your system did not use 350 watt you need to take the efficiency of your PSU off the number you get from the wall.
> 
> If it has 90% then you need to take 10% off which means it used 315 watts not 350 watts, if it has 80% efficiency then you need to take 20% off so the number is 280 watts not 350 watts and so on.
> But if you want to waste your money for no reason at all go ahead i am just trying to tell you that you dont need to and you can save some money.
> 
> Hell you can even buy a 500 watt fanless PSU if you like fanless so much that way you get zero noise even at high loads


I don't buy PSU, i got them sponsored.... so it's not a money problem


----------



## Rainmaker91

So I just found a couple of Alphacool Nexxxos monsta 480s for sale and I pulled the trigger due to the very reasonable price I got on them. So instead of outfitting my Enthoo Primo with a 240mm, a 360mm and a 140mm radiator, I'm now opting to fill it all up with the two monsta 480 rads. I know the case can support them but I'm wondering if anyone here knows if there are any complications in using a 480 radiator at 80mm thick in this case?. I know the case fit's my current WC parts without problems, but you never know what problems might occur with cooling that fills a case up to the maximum of what it's designed for.

I would appreciate any input on this, although I will figure it out eventually it's good to get some insight.

On another note: I think I might need more stuff to cool, because this build of mine is turning terrible overkill...


----------



## Mark011

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> So I just found a couple of Alphacool Nexxxos monsta 480s for sale and I pulled the trigger due to the very reasonable price I got on them. So instead of outfitting my Enthoo Primo with a 240mm, a 360mm and a 140mm radiator, I'm now opting to fill it all up with the two monsta 480 rads. I know the case can support them but I'm wondering if anyone here knows if there are any complications in using a 480 radiator at 80mm thick in this case?. I know the case fit's my current WC parts without problems, but you never know what problems might occur with cooling that fills a case up to the maximum of what it's designed for.
> 
> I would appreciate any input on this, although I will figure it out eventually it's good to get some insight.
> 
> On another note: I think I might need more stuff to cool, because this build of mine is turning terrible overkill...


it will fit 100% at the bottom, and i think it will at the top too, but on the top you can't p/p


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mark011*
> 
> it will fit 100% at the bottom, and i think it will at the top too, but on the top you can't p/p


thnx.

I figured as much, but you never know when youre talking about cases and radiators. I guess I'll have to get off my but and really start my build soon


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mark011*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> So I just found a couple of Alphacool Nexxxos monsta 480s for sale and I pulled the trigger due to the very reasonable price I got on them. So instead of outfitting my Enthoo Primo with a 240mm, a 360mm and a 140mm radiator, I'm now opting to fill it all up with the two monsta 480 rads. I know the case can support them but I'm wondering if anyone here knows if there are any complications in using a 480 radiator at 80mm thick in this case?. I know the case fit's my current WC parts without problems, but you never know what problems might occur with cooling that fills a case up to the maximum of what it's designed for.
> 
> I would appreciate any input on this, although I will figure it out eventually it's good to get some insight.
> 
> On another note: I think I might need more stuff to cool, because this build of mine is turning terrible overkill...
> 
> 
> 
> it will fit 100% at the bottom, and i think it will at the top too, but on the top you can't p/p
Click to expand...

It is definitely possible that an Alphacool Monsta (which actually is 85mm thick btw. I've no idea why Alphacool markets them as "80mm" rads) can fit in the top of a Primo, in push pull even, but will need to be able to overhang the top of the mobo. It's mentioned in the FAQ in the very first post of this thread (thanks to Jesse at TheModZoo):
Quote:


> *FAQ*
> 
> *What is the max clearance for a radiator installed in the top panel?*
> - The case has a clearance of 70mm for mounting a radiator in the roof. The mounts are offset by ~54mm so installing a 60mm (120mm series) radiator in push pull should not be an issue. As long as you do not have anything taller than 53mm on the motherboard (including ram), you can even install a 480mm monsta radiator in push pull. The X79 Dark, and G-Skill ram CAN be used with a monsta rad in push pull.


Here's a lil graphic I made up as an example of what fits up top in a Primo ...



So, an 85mm Monsta with fans in push-pull would need to overhang the top ~40mm of the mobo.


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> It is definitely possible that an Alphacool Monsta (which actually is 85mm thick btw. I've no idea why Alphacool markets them as "80mm" rads) can fit in the top of a Primo, in push pull even, but will need to be able to overhang the top of the mobo. It's mentioned in the FAQ in the very first post of this thread (thanks to Jesse at TheModZoo):
> Here's a lil graphic I made up as an example of what fits up top in a Primo ...
> 
> 
> 
> So, an 85mm Monsta with fans in push-pull would need to overhang the top ~40mm of the mobo.


Can't believe I didn't check the first post... oh well, thanks for the answer anyways. Fro now though I'll probably just be running a pull config on the on in top anyways, as I really don't need all that rad space to start with. Biggest problem now would be that I'm missing 3 Eloops to run it but I'll see if I can't extend the budget a bit to include that, unless ofcourse I can use the 140SP fans that is... I have some trial fitting to do I'm guessing


----------



## Faster_is_better

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bryce2113*
> 
> Hi all,
> 
> This is a new build but I used some of my old components. I have also wanted a tricked out theme case and finally I have one. I present .... THE GREEN HORNET!
> 
> PCPartPicker completed build
> 
> *CPU:* Intel Core i5-2500K 3.3GHz Quad-Core Processor
> *CPU Cooler:* Corsair H100i 77.0 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler
> *Motherboard:* Asus P8Z68-V PRO/GEN3 ATX LGA1155 Motherboard
> *Memory:* G.Skill Sniper Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1866 Memory
> *Memory:* G.Skill Sniper Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1866 Memory
> *Storage:* Corsair Force Series GT 120GB 2.5" Solid State Drive
> *Storage:* Seagate 4TB 3.5" 5900RPM Hybrid Internal Hard Drive
> *Video Card:* EVGA GeForce GTX 650 Ti Boost 2GB Video Card (2-Way SLI)
> *Video Card:* EVGA GeForce GTX 650 Ti Boost 2GB Video Card (2-Way SLI)
> *Case:* Phanteks Enthoo Primo ATX Full Tower Case
> *Power Supply:* Corsair Professional 850W 80+ Gold Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply
> *Operating System:* Microsoft Windows 8.1 (OEM) (64-bit)
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> *Case Fan:* Cougar Dual-X 73.2 CFM 140mm Fan
> *Case Fan:* Cougar Dual-X 73.2 CFM 140mm Fan
> *Case Fan:* Cougar Dual-X 73.2 CFM 140mm Fan
> *Case Fan:* Cougar Dual-X 73.2 CFM 140mm Fan
> *Case Fan:* Cougar Dual-X 64.4 CFM 120mm Fan
> *Case Fan:* Cougar Dual-X 64.4 CFM 120mm Fan
> *Case Fan:* Cougar Dual-X 64.4 CFM 120mm Fan
> *Case Fan:* Cougar Dual-X 64.4 CFM 120mm Fan
> 
> 
> *Case Accessory:* NZXT Hue LED Controller
> 
> *Here are my planned upgrades in the near future:*
> 
> - Full custom water cooling loop
> - Find a way to have a led backlit green hornet logo on the front panel
> - Upgrade to two GTX 980s (w/ water bl
> - Upgrade to latest gen Intel CPU and get Mobo with matching color scheme
> 
> If you have any suggestions on WC parts that will go well with the theme, please let me know. I hope to finish my upgrades in the Fall.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Very nice. Haven't seen a lot of the custom colored Primos in here either. As far as watercooling parts, there aren't a lot of limits for this case, so you can get very creative. If you need general WC advice, the WC thread has a lot of helpful members.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> Can't believe I didn't check the first post... oh well, thanks for the answer anyways. Fro now though I'll probably just be running a pull config on the on in top anyways, as I really don't need all that rad space to start with. Biggest problem now would be that I'm missing 3 Eloops to run it but I'll see if I can't extend the budget a bit to include that, unless ofcourse I can use the 140SP fans that is... I have some trial fitting to do I'm guessing










Which is why I haven't tried to put more guides and info in the first post.


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Which is why I haven't tried to put more guides and info in the first post.


point taken


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Just got this email today from http://www.phanteksusa.com/pages/products



I don't suppose there's any chance their cases qualify as 'Phanteks Accessories'? I doubt it but was just wondering because of the placement of the MiniXL in that email.

Anywho, just thought maybe someone might be considering buying a fan hub, pump bracket, SSD bracket, Luxe LED strip or a MiniXL ITX Kit, looks like there's a discount code for you good for the next week and a half or so.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> point taken


Sorry, that was not directed at you, but at peeps who have hounded me to make a more informative first post. Very few people look at first post and even fewer search for info in a thread .. and this thread has almost everything there is to know about these cases.








:thumb:We have some very well versed case owners .. who are very good at helping anyone who needs help.


----------



## Shaolin7

Hey guys, is there an official Phanteks rep here? I bought a Luxe for my recent build (build specs below) and while I am mostly satisfied with it, there is some pretty distracting window rattling from the case, like a slow buzzing that eventually starts to rattle. One way I've found of alleviating things is to push down on the windows' seams, using my fingernail -- but eventually the sound comes back.

Now, the reason I am asking is because this is the official response I received from Phanteks when I emailed their support regarding this:
Quote:


> ,
> After some time the windows in the side panel will settle and stop making noises. The sounds come from the window expanding and contracting with the change in temperature.
> 
> PhanteksUSA Support
> 
> On 4/23/2015 7:04 AM, [email protected]_____.___ wrote:
> > Form details below.
> >
> > First Name:
> > Last Name:
> > Company Name:
> > Address:
> > Address2:
> > City:
> > State:
> > Zip:
> > Country:
> > Telephone:
> > Email:
> > Comments: Hello guys,
> >
> > I purchased a black Phanteks Enthoo Luxe ( PH-ES614L_BK) for a new build on Mar. 17. However, after finishing my build, I am noticing quite a large hum or rattle from the side windows. I can mitigate this for a while by shifting the two windows, but invariably, the noise returns. Is there anything I can do? I am otherwise quite happy with the case, but the side window noise is driving me crazy!! Please let me know if there is some kind of fix for this, as I would be loathe to have to return it to Amazon's 3rd party seller and wait all over again to put everything back into a replacement case.
> >
> > Thanks very much guys,
> >


I... Is this even for real? Maybe I didn't explain the issue properly, it wasn't descriptive... maybe I am not understanding things properly.The window is rattling, like it's not seated properly or the housing it sits in is not tight enough. I don't know whether to take this as a sarcastic 'joke' response, or if this is a genuine, honest response from said Phanteks company to a customer?? I would definitely like to have the issue resolved without having to resort to sending it back to Amazon (3rd party reseller, not sure how the exchange would work exactly) and being out of a PC. For the record, I really don't think the changes in temperature are so great as to be the genesis of the issue here -- just poor manufacturing / QA control.

Like I said, I found the US Phanteks support response to be lacking... to say the least. Did anyone else have similar issues with the Enthoo Luxe? Is there a Phanteks rep in the house to speak with directly?


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shaolin7*
> 
> Hey guys, is there an official Phanteks rep here? I bought a Luxe for my recent build (build specs below) and while I am mostly satisfied with it, there is some pretty distracting window rattling from the case, like a slow buzzing that eventually starts to rattle. One way I've found of alleviating things is to push down on the windows' seams, using my fingernail -- but eventually the sound comes back.
> 
> Now, the reason I am asking is because this is the official response I received from Phanteks when I emailed their support regarding this:
> I... Is this even for real? Maybe I didn't explain the issue properly, it wasn't descriptive... maybe I am not understanding things properly.The window is rattling, like it's not seated properly or the housing it sits in is not tight enough. I don't know whether to take this as a sarcastic 'joke' response, or if this is a genuine, honest response from said Phanteks company to a customer?? I would definitely like to have the issue resolved without having to resort to sending it back to Amazon (3rd party reseller, not sure how the exchange would work exactly) and being out of a PC. For the record, I really don't think the changes in temperature are so great as to be the genesis of the issue here -- just poor manufacturing / QA control.
> 
> Like I said, I found the US Phanteks support response to be lacking... to say the least. Did anyone else have similar issues with the Enthoo Luxe? Is there a Phanteks rep in the house to speak with directly?


I've seen a few people mention this before but I don't recall ever reading anyone saying it stopped over time our what they did to fix the issue


----------



## emsj86

Update.


----------



## AOMG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mark011*
> 
> Project EVO sponsored by Phanteks, wrapped some parts in white
> 
> hope you like it.


Was it easy wrapping it up?


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shaolin7*
> 
> Hey guys, is there an official Phanteks rep here? I bought a Luxe for my recent build (build specs below) and while I am mostly satisfied with it, there is some pretty distracting window rattling from the case, like a slow buzzing that eventually starts to rattle. One way I've found of alleviating things is to push down on the windows' seams, using my fingernail -- but eventually the sound comes back.
> 
> Now, the reason I am asking is because this is the official response I received from Phanteks when I emailed their support regarding this:
> I... Is this even for real? Maybe I didn't explain the issue properly, it wasn't descriptive... maybe I am not understanding things properly.The window is rattling, like it's not seated properly or the housing it sits in is not tight enough. I don't know whether to take this as a sarcastic 'joke' response, or if this is a genuine, honest response from said Phanteks company to a customer?? I would definitely like to have the issue resolved without having to resort to sending it back to Amazon (3rd party reseller, not sure how the exchange would work exactly) and being out of a PC. For the record, I really don't think the changes in temperature are so great as to be the genesis of the issue here -- just poor manufacturing / QA control.
> 
> Like I said, I found the US Phanteks support response to be lacking... to say the least. Did anyone else have similar issues with the Enthoo Luxe? Is there a Phanteks rep in the house to speak with directly?


I'm not sure what this 'rattle' you are talking about is. Is the window loose in it's frame. Are you sure it's the window and not fan vibration that is the culprit?. Phanteks USA has a good rep for customer support, but you have to work with them. Your closing paragraph doesn't sound like you are being very cooperative.









What has been an ongoing issue is the plastic expanding / contracting with temperature changes at a different rate than the metal case causing it to sometimes make a little noise. But what you are trying to describe, Ihave no idea what the actual problem is.


----------



## emsj86




----------



## mfknjadagr8

Nice emj gets cleaner and better looking with each update


----------



## redshoulder

Have a few questions regarding fan controller with evolv.

For PWM there is 4 pin cable to 4pin motherboard header.
Then you can control up to 6 3pin fans by PWM. It is also possible by splitter cable that you can connect 11 fans in total.


----------



## Mark011

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AOMG*
> 
> Was it easy wrapping it up?


If you use a Heat gun it will not be hard at all


----------



## blueballs

wc


----------



## the matty

has anyone got an enthoo pro with an SSI-EEB board in it? need to size up what it'd look like with my S5520SC in it


----------



## Faster_is_better

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Shaolin7*
> 
> Hey guys, is there an official Phanteks rep here? I bought a Luxe for my recent build (build specs below) and while I am mostly satisfied with it, there is some pretty distracting window rattling from the case, like a slow buzzing that eventually starts to rattle. One way I've found of alleviating things is to push down on the windows' seams, using my fingernail -- but eventually the sound comes back.
> 
> Now, the reason I am asking is because this is the official response I received from Phanteks when I emailed their support regarding this:
> I... Is this even for real? Maybe I didn't explain the issue properly, it wasn't descriptive... maybe I am not understanding things properly.The window is rattling, like it's not seated properly or the housing it sits in is not tight enough. I don't know whether to take this as a sarcastic 'joke' response, or if this is a genuine, honest response from said Phanteks company to a customer?? I would definitely like to have the issue resolved without having to resort to sending it back to Amazon (3rd party reseller, not sure how the exchange would work exactly) and being out of a PC. For the record, I really don't think the changes in temperature are so great as to be the genesis of the issue here -- just poor manufacturing / QA control.
> 
> Like I said, I found the US Phanteks support response to be lacking... to say the least. Did anyone else have similar issues with the Enthoo Luxe? Is there a Phanteks rep in the house to speak with directly?
> 
> 
> 
> I'm not sure what this 'rattle' you are talking about is. Is the window loose in it's frame. Are you sure it's the window and not fan vibration that is the culprit?. Phanteks USA has a good rep for customer support, but you have to work with them. Your closing paragraph doesn't sound like you are being very cooperative.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What has been an ongoing issue is the plastic expanding / contracting with temperature changes at a different rate than the metal case causing it to sometimes make a little noise. But what you are trying to describe, Ihave no idea what the actual problem is.
Click to expand...

Easy way to test would be to remove the side panel and see if it is gone. The rattle could be the whole side panel itself though and not necessarily the window. If the window does feel loose maybe try taping down the corners on the inside, or if it is really lose maybe even you could wedge some tape between the window and side panel so it isn't loose?

If the Luxe has paper thin side panels like the Primo, I could easily see that rattling by some slight fan vibrations.

I think their response could happen in reality but probably isn't your issue. I hear my Primo cracking occasionally, pretty sure its the small plastic pieces expanding/contracting from temp difference just as they say. I've noticed this with other plastic pieces as well on different components, so it is a real thing.


----------



## 031Dutch

Hi There users of phantek case's

I was looking before for the phanteks se red. But none off the online store's can not deliver that case.
so whas looking back to the basic primo case.
I wanna make a red case build. On the front side there blue led lighting( not the fans ) is it possible to turn off the blue led. By switch or even disconnect the power?
So on the blue parts on photo are gone
I dont wanna change the led.

I hope some 1 can answer this

thnx for the help


----------



## Faster_is_better

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *031Dutch*
> 
> Hi There users of phantek case's
> 
> I was looking before for the phanteks se red. But none off the online store's can not deliver that case.
> so whas looking back to the basic primo case.
> I wanna make a red case build. On the front side there blue led lighting( not the fans ) is it possible to turn off the blue led. By switch or even disconnect the power?
> So on the blue parts on photo are gone
> I dont wanna change the led.
> 
> I hope some 1 can answer this
> 
> thnx for the help


The LED's for Primo can be turned off with a switch, yes.


----------



## Shaolin7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Faster_is_better*
> 
> Easy way to test would be to remove the side panel and see if it is gone. The rattle could be the whole side panel itself though and not necessarily the window. If the window does feel loose maybe try taping down the corners on the inside, or if it is really lose maybe even you could wedge some tape between the window and side panel so it isn't loose?
> 
> If the Luxe has paper thin side panels like the Primo, I could easily see that rattling by some slight fan vibrations.
> 
> I think their response could happen in reality but probably isn't your issue. I hear my Primo cracking occasionally, pretty sure its the small plastic pieces expanding/contracting from temp difference just as they say. I've noticed this with other plastic pieces as well on different components, so it is a real thing.


Ok, thank you Faster for the thoughtful response! So I guess it isn't just me then, there is some sort of noticeable issue. And here I was getting a bit ticked at the response from the poor Phanteks support guys.







This is going to sound really stupid, but one way I've found of alleviating the rattle is to insert some collar stays (those little inserts for dress shirts' collars) in between the window and the metal frame, that sliver of space. Short of taping it, which would ruin the aesthetic a bit for me, I'm not sure what else to do.

*edit* I did remove the panel and of course the rattle was gone. It's something that comes back around after a few hours of leaving the PC on. I also notice that the top grille fan can cause some noise as well, even tightening down the screws there.


----------



## MrPatate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *redshoulder*
> 
> Have a few questions regarding fan controller with evolv.
> 
> For PWM there is 4 pin cable to 4pin motherboard header.
> Then you can control up to 6 3pin fans by PWM. It is also possible by splitter cable that you can connect 11 fans in total.


What is your question? You are only stating how it works.


----------



## Onyxian

Is there anywhere that actual sells the black Primo with white interior or is it discontinued?


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Onyxian*
> 
> Is there anywhere that actual sells the black Primo with white interior or is it discontinued?


The white interior Enthoo Primo is a Special Edition, as are the orange, red and green interior Primos Special Edition means the made a special run of each with no plans to make more.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

I've never seen a special edition black Primo with a white interior sold anywhere in the US. I've only seen the black/red, black/orange, and black/green two-tone versions sold here. If there even was such a black & white special edition model then I suspect it must have been like the black and gold version that was meant to be exclusive to Caseking, only sold somewhere else in the world.


----------



## doyll

Good point.








Now that I think about it I don't remember ever seeing one except in Phanteks promotional pictures on phanteks.com and EU sites like these


----------



## gsan

Anyone know how to replace the faulty front filter clip? I already got the replacement but not sure how to replace it...

P_20150330_221143.jpg 203k .jpg file


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gsan*
> 
> Anyone know how to replace the faulty front filter clip? I already got the replacement but not sure how to replace it...
> 
> P_20150330_221143.jpg 203k .jpg file


Unfortunately quite a few of us have had those little latches fail and had to replace them. There are two little tabs on either side that need pushed in while you push the latch out. iirc I used a couple small flathead screwdrivers on either side and pushed the latch out with my thumbs.


----------



## Onyxian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> The white interior Enthoo Primo is a Special Edition, as are the orange, red and green interior Primos Special Edition means the made a special run of each with no plans to make more.


I didn't think about it like that, I was just looking everywhere and only seeing the other colors. Makes sense to me if it was sold then it would have sold out quickly as, well personally it's the only good looking SE.


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Onyxian*
> 
> I didn't think about it like that, I was just looking everywhere and only seeing the other colors. Makes sense to me if it was sold then it would have sold out quickly as, well personally it's the only good looking SE.


If you are up for a bit of modding, then it shouldn't take that much work to spray paint the bits you want white. You just have to use quite a few layers and a good primer to cover the black properly. Personally though I'm doing plexi covers to give my build a different look, but there are many ways to get the wanted result (like vinyl wrapping for example)


----------



## Onyxian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> If you are up for a bit of modding, then it shouldn't take that much work to spray paint the bits you want white. You just have to use quite a few layers and a good primer to cover the black properly. Personally though I'm doing plexi covers to give my build a different look, but there are many ways to get the wanted result (like vinyl wrapping for example)


I'm sure I could, not really something I'm comfortable doing even though I'm sure it wouldn't be too bad. When I saw it looking at Primos I was thinking I could do a pseudo lazy Zatanna build.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

I've been watching for it and I can say with almost certainty that a Black/White SE Phanteks Primo was never listed for sale at Newegg, Amazon, or at Phanteksusa.com, not even briefly. It did not 'sell out' from any of those places and I don't know of any other US sellers.

I did find it here at Caseking though. They managed to get a Black & Gold special edition exclusive to them from Phanteks (though later on overclockers.uk managed to get some from Caseking). I suspect this Black & White may also be exclusive to Caseking since I don't see it anywhere else. Not sure if they do international sales/shipping or not.

https://www.caseking.de/shop/catalog/PHANTEKS-Enthoo-Primo-SE-Big-Tower-weisse-LED-schwarz-weiss::30757.html


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> I've been watching for it and I can say with almost certainty that a Black/White SE Phanteks Primo was never listed for sale at Newegg, Amazon, or at Phanteksusa.com, not even briefly. It did not 'sell out' from any of those places and I don't know of any other US sellers.
> 
> I did find it here at Caseking though. They managed to get a Black & Gold special edition exclusive to them from Phanteks (though later on overclockers.uk managed to get some from Caseking). I suspect this Black & White may also be exclusive to Caseking since I don't see it anywhere else. Not sure if they do international sales/shipping or not.
> 
> https://www.caseking.de/shop/catalog/PHANTEKS-Enthoo-Primo-SE-Big-Tower-weisse-LED-schwarz-weiss::30757.html


They do, or at least they send stuff all over Europe. Still, the share cost of shipping something over that distance would make it far more attractive from a cost standpoint to just paint or wrap the insides (depending on the distance of course).

Edit: Seems like it's just Europe.


----------



## sav4

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Unfortunately quite a few of us have had those little latches fail and had to replace them. There are two little tabs on either side that need pushed in while you push the latch out. iirc I used a couple small flathead screwdrivers on either side and pushed the latch out with my thumbs.


Are phantek replacing these clips under warrenty ?


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sav4*
> 
> Are phantek replacing these clips under warrenty ?


Yes, if you contact support they will replace them. I had to get two sent to me from Phanteks when my case was brand new because both of the front latches stripped out when I removed the front panel of the case just like it shows in the manual, without first removing the front filter. When pulling at the bottom as soon as the front panel popped free the front filter which is held in by two of those latches went flying and they both were stripped out so neither would click and stay in any more. I haven't had any more fail now that I know to remove the front filter before trying to remove the entire front case panel.

That said, I went ahead and found them for sale elsewhere and ordered more of them just so I will have them on hand if it ever happens again. I didn't like not being able to put the front filter on my case until the ones from Phanteks arrived. Here's a post from back then about them ...
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Here's a small update on the extra push-click latches for the filters on the Enthoo Primo we were discussing a month or so ago since they seem a bit prone to failing (I've had to get two replaced from Phanteks already, and so have several others here). [...] In the US I've found them referred to as a *Grab Catch* or *non-magnetic mini touch latch* and in the UK they can be found by searching for a '*push click bin latch*'.


FWIW I'm in the US but found the best deals on them are through ebay from the UK.


----------



## Ironsmack

Finally pulled the trigger and ordered a white Primo.

But of course, now its back ordered. We'll see how long NCIX stock it up this time ?


----------



## evoll88

I am looking to do a new build with either the Luxe or 750d but cant find any info on if I can fit a 240 rad. on bottom and front at same time with the Luxe??


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *evoll88*
> 
> I am looking to do a new build with either the Luxe or 750d but cant find any info on if I can fit a 240 rad. on bottom and front at same time with the Luxe??


Can't be done stock. It just touches with a set of fans on. I tried it. But with cutting the bottom of the drive bay and moving up the front rad it will work. But not stock


----------



## evoll88

Ok Thanks for the help,i guess I will go with the 750d since it can be done without cutting.


----------



## emsj86

still need to snip the red sound card lights but a few updates (gpu cables, sound card backplate, and sli bridge plate) will snip red leds when my new psu comes in


----------



## emsj86

I have the 200mm res. I'm wound wrong if that would look better than the 150 as it would take up more space. But it may interfere with the 24pin cables. I love this case but starting to realize it's not big enough things our getting cramped and harder to work with


----------



## iRev_olution

I just bought a new black enthoo primo and having an issue with the CPU pcb fan hub.

I connected 12 fans to the hub with fan splitters. I connected it to CPUpmw and it works, when I connect it to CPU1pmw the fans don't work. They're wired with the sata power as well. My motherboard is the z97 EVGA classified. Does anyone have an idea? I require the first pmw for my alpha cool pump.

- Mike


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iRev_olution*
> 
> I just bought a new black enthoo primo and having an issue with the CPU pcb fan hub.
> 
> I connected 12 fans to the hub with fan splitters. I connected it to CPUpmw and it works, when I connect it to CPU1pmw the fans don't work. They're wired with the sata power as well. My motherboard is the z97 EVGA classified. Does anyone have an idea? I require the first pmw for my alpha cool pump.
> 
> - Mike


Welcome!
With fans connected to hub and hub connected to PSU with Sata connector and fans run .. I assume at full speed.
But when you connect the PWM lead from hub to motherboard, the stop working?

What fan header on motherboard are you using?

You have hub header #1 connected to master fan?


----------



## emsj86

this thread finally died down alittle


----------



## Reystar

Guys what do you think? Shall i go for the Luxe or the new NZXT Noctis 450 case?


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Reystar*
> 
> Guys what do you think? Shall i go for the Luxe or the new NZXT Noctis 450 case?


depends what you need from your case.


----------



## Reystar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PureBlackFire*
> 
> depends what you need from your case.


What you mean? I want the best overall case, with great aesthetics


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Reystar*
> 
> What you mean? I want the best overall case, with great aesthetics


two very subjective things. one case has slots for optical drives. bottom intake for fans/rads, multi color accent lighting and a removable psu cover. one case has 280/360 front rad mounting out of the box.


----------



## maskymus

to *iRev_olution*,
Usually, CPU_PWM and CPU_OPT (CPU1_PWM or any other naming by the manufacturer) are using the same PWM signal. CPU_OPT is the mirror of CPU_PWM (from my understanding it's like CPU_OPT is sort of a hub, it takes PWM signal from true PWM header and then corresponds it to voltage control). True Intel PWM standard is used only on one of CPU headers.
P.S. I couldn't find any pinout for CPU headers used on EVGA Z97 Classified. I assume it's like any other MB: CPU_FAN: GND, +12V, Sense, SpeedControl. CPU_OPT: GND, SpeedControl, Sense, VCC.(based on my manual from Gigabyte)
As the result from first header you receive PWM signal, from the other header voltage regulation.


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Reystar*
> 
> Guys what do you think? Shall i go for the Luxe or the new NZXT Noctis 450 case?


If the Noctis 450 is anything like the H440 which it really does look like then it's going to be cramped for space if you want to mount lots of radiators in it. Luckily it does look like they fixed the problem which the h440 has with to little air intakes for the front fans, but it's still going to be a bit cramped for interiors. The Luxe would offer you more space to work with but it really does depend on your preference like @PureBlackFire said. both seem like good cases so you should really just go with what you feel like can be of most use to you, the lack of front bays in the Noctis might be a problem for some while a blessing to others, and so on.


----------



## Dorito Bandit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Reystar*
> 
> Guys what do you think? Shall i go for the Luxe or the new NZXT Noctis 450 case?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Reystar*
> 
> What you mean? I want the best overall case, with great aesthetics


Personally, I think the Luxe is a much better looking case. The Noctis 450 is ugly as hell to me. Not saying the Noctis 450 is a bad case, I just think it's ugly.







Hell, even the Enthoo pro is a better looking case than the Noctis 450. But hey, don't listen to us, you buy what ever *you like*! You're the one who's going to have to look at it everyday!









Best of luck to you!


----------



## Reystar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dorito Bandit*
> 
> Personally, I think the Luxe is a much better looking case. The Noctis 450 is ugly as hell to me. Not saying the Noctis 450 is a bad case, I just think it's ugly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hell, even the Enthoo pro is a better looking case than the Noctis 450. But hey, don't listen to us, you buy what ever *you like*! You're the one who's going to have to look at it everyday!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Best of luck to you!


I really like the aggressive look of the Noctis 450, the only thing that's keeping me back is the fact that doesnt support EATX for a massive setup


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Reystar*
> 
> I really like the aggressive look of the Noctis 450, the only thing that's keeping me back is the fact that doesnt support EATX for a massive setup


if you want to go with an e-atx board then I would also assume you would be running power hungry components? if so then you may consider the Enthoo Primo instead if you need the space for the board and as much cooling as you would ever need (putting two monsta 480s in mine). If not then I would say the enthoo luxe/pro as they do tend to give more headroom for space. You could also consider the NZXT Phantom series if you are dead set on that front, but then again I wouldn't be one to pick a style case for you as I personally find the Noctis to look fairly ugly (I'm fairly fond of the sleek design of the H440 though)


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iRev_olution*
> 
> I just bought a new black enthoo primo and having an issue with the CPU pcb fan hub.
> 
> I connected 12 fans to the hub with fan splitters. I connected it to CPUpmw and it works, when I connect it to CPU1pmw the fans don't work. They're wired with the sata power as well. My motherboard is the z97 EVGA classified. Does anyone have an idea? I require the first pmw for my alpha cool pump.
> 
> - Mike


I believe only the CPU1_FAN header is actually PWM on that board, and the CPU2_FAN header is not (or however the two CPU fan headers are named on that board), or at least that's what I gather after reading posts like this one ...

http://forums.evga.com/Second-PWM-CPU-Fan-Header-question-m2299881.aspx


----------



## iRev_olution

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Welcome!
> With fans connected to hub and hub connected to PSU with Sata connector and fans run .. I assume at full speed.
> But when you connect the PWM lead from hub to motherboard, the stop working?
> 
> What fan header on motherboard are you using?
> 
> You have hub header #1 connected to master fan?


Thank you. I have my pump in the first CPU pmw and my hub connected to the 2nd pmw. It's a 4 pin header.

That being said, can I leave the header disconnected and just run off sata?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *maskymus*
> 
> to *iRev_olution*,
> Usually, CPU_PWM and CPU_OPT (CPU1_PWM or any other naming by the manufacturer) are using the same PWM signal. CPU_OPT is the mirror of CPU_PWM (from my understanding it's like CPU_OPT is sort of a hub, it takes PWM signal from true PWM header and then corresponds it to voltage control). True Intel PWM standard is used only on one of CPU headers.
> P.S. I couldn't find any pinout for CPU headers used on EVGA Z97 Classified. I assume it's like any other MB: CPU_FAN: GND, +12V, Sense, SpeedControl. CPU_OPT: GND, SpeedControl, Sense, VCC.(based on my manual from Gigabyte)
> As the result from first header you receive PWM signal, from the other header voltage regulation.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> I believe only the CPU1_FAN header is actually PWM on that board, and the CPU2_FAN header is not (or however the two CPU fan headers are named on that board), or at least that's what I gather after reading posts like this one ...
> 
> http://forums.evga.com/Second-PWM-CPU-Fan-Header-question-m2299881.aspx


Sounds like to me I can't use the second one then! It's kinda pointless to have if I can't control it via BOIS. Thanks for you're help guys!


----------



## Onyxian

Welp, wasn't planning this build until the far future but with the semester ending I figured I'd have a lot more time to burn. Will paint some fans, going to go ahead and plastidip the interior of the case instead of painting it, won't mess with heavier plastidip on the fan blades. Have lots left over and experience from doing car stuff. Will be the first time I'll actually be doing modding on computer parts, good I'll have lots of time to mess with it all.

Also ♥ Amazon Prime for ordering huge stuff.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> this thread finally died down alittle


Springtime. All forums
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iRev_olution*
> 
> Thank you. I have my pump in the first CPU pmw and my hub connected to the 2nd pmw. It's a 4 pin header.
> 
> That being said, can I leave the header disconnected and just run off sata?


Okay, is the pump changing speed?
Just because it's a 4-pin header does not mean it is PWM. Many motherboards had 4-pin headers that are just variable voltage .. the 4th pin does nothing.

Running the fans on just the Sata power is not a problem at all. They simply run on constant 12v power (same as 100% PWM) instead of the 12v power being pulsed to lower their speed.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> this thread finally died down alittle


Springtime. All forums hae less traffic.


----------



## MrGrievous

So lately I can hear a buzzing sound coming from my case. I have a Luxe and the sound is coming directly from the rear exhaust fan, sounds like it is the honeycome mesh. Giving the problem area a little tap seems to fix the issue but it does come back occasionally.


----------



## MrBanananana

Hey guys, just picked up an Enthoo Mini XL today, and I am loving the case so far, but have a few concerns.

Firstly, I noticed that the LED stripe that run along the front and top get extremely hot over time, is this normal?

Secondly, when changing LED colors, the power button LED displays the correct colors but the red controller for the stripes seems to have a problem.




I picked up this exact case from 3DGAMEMAN locally, and this shows what I mean regarding the LED colors.

Since I am using the phanteks LED strips, the led strips reflect the incorrect color displayed on the stripes. I haven't had a chance to take apart the case yet to inspect the RGB controller, but I suspect there is some damage there.


----------



## Jonas75

Hi.
I'm the proud owner of the Phanteks Enthoo Pro since 6 months or so, very happy with it.
I built my first ever watercooling in it, a custom loop(why not jump in the deep end from the start hehe?).

The loop as it is:
Alphacool NexXxos XT45 360 RAD in the top
3x Alphacool NB-eLoop Bionic 1200rpm in pull. Had to use a rad gasket to keep the fans from rattling against the RAD.
Phobya Balancer 150 RES mounted on the included phanteks mounting plate. Will have to move this when I get the Sapphire R9 290 TRi-X
EKWB Supremacy EVO CPU block
Alphacool D5 Vario pump with the alphacool top.
Primochill LRT 16/10 tubing
Fittings, adapters are:
Alphacool, Moonson, ModMyToys, XSPC.
I use an Alphacool TEE Terminal at the very bottom of the loop as a drain.
Destilled water with Mayhems Biocide extreme and anti-corrosive additive.

The system:
i5-2500K @ 4.4Ghz (max temp during stresstest 67c, that is with the case standing 10cm from a radiator, out of necessity)
Asus P8Z68-V
XMS3 4x2GB @ 1600Mhz 9-9-9-24 1,575V
Crucial MX100 256GB for OS and Games
WD Caviar Black 1TB for other apps and storage
PCIE -> SATAIII 2port card as the MB only has two 6GB/s ports
EVGA GTX 750 Ti FTW 2GB (will be replaced by an R9 290)
EVGA SuperNova G2 750W
AOC i2470SWQ 24" IPS
CM storm devastator mouse and keyboard, ok for the price.

Mods, so far:
2x 5,25" to 3,5" brackets. To eliminate the need for HDD-cages.
PCI bracket that fits two 2.5" SSD/HDD
Front 200mm fan replaced with two Phobya Nano-G14 PWM fans.
Rear 140mm fan replaced with an Enermax TB Silence PWM 140mm fan.

Mods to come:
I want to add a RAD in the front, prefferably a 280mm as I want more area and I already have fans for that. Not sure if it fits without modding the case though. The fans on this can be put in either push or pull, it will still be easy to clean. I clean the system every 7-10 days.
If there's no way to fit a 280 rad, I'll have to settle for a 240. But Shurely there's someone here that has put a 280 in the front of this case?

Upgrades to come:
GPU R9 290
waterblock and backplate for GPU
More storage

EDIT:
I just thought of something...if I can't fit a 280 RAD, I may be able to fit two 140 RAD's "sideways".
That is; Fans against the front, RAD's mounted "on" fans with the ports facing the right side of the case as seen from the front? A bit more expensive, and a bit more flow restriction, but the D5 can surely handle it.


----------



## doyll

MrGrievous
Have you checked fan mounting screws to see if they are tight?
If problem persists, maybe get some of 'rubber screws'. They often work wonders.


@MrBanananana
I don't have this case so can't be much help. Have you tried contacting customer service or chatted online with them?
http://phanteks.com/support.html

That would be the first thing I would do.


----------



## havoc764

hello, not so long ago i bought a enthoo luxe case. (wanted a case that would last a long time)

Overall i am quite happy with the build quallity, unfortunatly mine came in damaged and i only noticed that after i finished my build.

I though about sending it back, but with test coming up i did not have time to remove everything and build it back into my old case before sending the case back and doing it again when the replacement came in.
and it mostly only cosmetic damage and sending the entire case back for it when it could most likely be replaced seemed kind of silly.

And i did not think it would be very noticble because of the lichting in my room.
(turns out I was wrong, it is clearly visible when the weather is decent)

It concerns damage to the top right side (non windowed side) of the case and mostly seems to consist of some form of paint damage but there is one small bit where i can actually put my nail into it. (see the first and second pic) (in the spoiler)
as visible from the pic the excact same color shade of grey is also slightly on the plastic, which i think is strange because from the way the plastic looks it might be black all the way through and might not be painted.

there is also a very small amount of damage on the bottom plate (third pic in the spoiler). But i doubt i can replace that without pulling the entire case apart, and it is tiny so i can probably hide it with a black permanent marker.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!































Now from what i know the part that is most damaged is the metal plate to which the top fans are mounted.
And it is held together by screws on the front, back and the right side, so it should be replacable.

Would it be possible to contact phanteks and get a replpacement send for it or not?

I also have a few questions about the case.

1. The top fan seems to vibrate a lot and seems to case a strange humming noise on the side of the case where i am sitting.
Is there anyway i can fix that?

2. Why do the store bought fans have rubber feet but the ones in the enthoo luxe not, seems strange to start a different production line just for the fans.

3. when i shine a bright light through the case window there are stripes all over it.
At first i thought it was because of some glue left over from the plastic that is used to protect the window so i wased it with some water and soap, but it is still there when i shine a brigth ligt on the window.
I attempted to take a picture of it, but it was pretty difficult to capture.
(dont know wenether it is visible on the pics, but it was worth a try)


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!















































































It is not visible in normal light nor is it visble when one place a light inside the case. It is only visible when there is light shined directly onto the window. (under certain angles)
Which should never really happen. (I only found out when i checked for traces of glue on the window and held it against the light)

4. Is it normal for a case to have a beauty mark like this? (it is a small dent right in the middle of the front panel.)
It really is not damage and more of an imperfection but when i first noticed it, it kind of annoyed the heck out of me.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!























So is the possible to get a replacement for the top fan cover or should i not even bother?


----------



## sav4

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrGrievous*
> 
> So lately I can hear a buzzing sound coming from my case. I have a Luxe and the sound is coming directly from the rear exhaust fan, sounds like it is the honeycome mesh. Giving the problem area a little tap seems to fix the issue but it does come back occasionally.


Check the fan for rubber mounts on both sides some only came with feet on one side of the fan phantek will send you the extra rubbers .


----------



## Dorito Bandit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *havoc764*
> 
> hello, not so long ago i bought a enthoo luxe case. (wanted a case that would last a long time)
> 
> Overall i am quite happy with the build quallity, unfortunatly mine came in damaged and i only noticed that after i finished my build.
> 
> I though about sending it back, but with test coming up i did not have time to remove everything and build it back into my old case before sending the case back and doing it again when the replacement came in.
> and it mostly only cosmetic damage and sending the entire case back for it when it could most likely be replaced seemed kind of silly.
> 
> And i did not think it would be very noticble because of the lichting in my room.
> (turns out I was wrong, it is clearly visible when the weather is decent)
> 
> It concerns damage to the top right side (non windowed side) of the case and mostly seems to consist of some form of paint damage but there is one small bit where i can actually put my nail into it. (see the first and second pic) (in the spoiler)
> as visible from the pic the excact same color shade of grey is also slightly on the plastic, which i think is strange because from the way the plastic looks it might be black all the way through and might not be painted.
> 
> there is also a very small amount of damage on the bottom plate (third pic in the spoiler). But i doubt i can replace that without pulling the entire case apart, and it is tiny so i can probably hide it with a black permanent marker.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now from what i know the part that is most damaged is the metal plate to which the top fans are mounted.
> And it is held together by screws on the front, back and the right side, so it should be replacable.
> 
> Would it be possible to contact phanteks and get a replpacement send for it or not?
> 
> I also have a few questions about the case.
> 
> 1. The top fan seems to vibrate a lot and seems to case a strange humming noise on the side of the case where i am sitting.
> Is there anyway i can fix that?
> 
> 2. Why do the store bought fans have rubber feet but the ones in the enthoo luxe not, seems strange to start a different production line just for the fans.
> 
> 3. when i shine a bright light through the case window there are stripes all over it.
> At first i thought it was because of some glue left over from the plastic that is used to protect the window so i wased it with some water and soap, but it is still there when i shine a brigth ligt on the window.
> I attempted to take a picture of it, but it was pretty difficult to capture.
> (dont know wenether it is visible on the pics, but it was worth a try)
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It is not visible in normal light nor is it visble when one place a light inside the case. It is only visible when there is light shined directly onto the window. (under certain angles)
> Which should never really happen. (I only found out when i checked for traces of glue on the window and held it against the light)
> 
> 4. Is it normal for a case to have a beauty mark like this? (it is a small dent right in the middle of the front panel.)
> It really is not damage and more of an imperfection but when i first noticed it, it kind of annoyed the heck out of me.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So is the possible to get a replacement for the top fan cover or should i not even bother?


Your best bet is to contact Phanteks. I would also send the link to your post above about these issues. Not sure where you're form, but here is the contact info for North America and South America Regions: http://phanteks.com/Contact.html

Best of luck and please keep us updated on this.


----------



## havoc764

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dorito Bandit*
> 
> Your best bet is to contact Phanteks. I would also send the link to your post above about these issues. Not sure where you're form, but here is the contact info for North America and South America Regions: http://phanteks.com/Contact.html
> 
> Best of luck and please keep us updated on this.


I am from holland


----------



## tribunal4555

This may be a stupid question, but can I put a 2.5" mechanical hard drive from a dead laptop into the SSD bracket in my Enthoo Pro? It'd let me get rid of my hard drive cages, but I don't want there to be any problem with vibrations or anything.


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tribunal4555*
> 
> This may be a stupid question, but can I put a 2.5" mechanical hard drive from a dead laptop into the SSD bracket in my Enthoo Pro? It'd let me get rid of my hard drive cages, but I don't want there to be any problem with vibrations or anything.


i think yes.


----------



## Toan

My "almost" complete build in the Enthoo Primo. Some things have changed since the photo was taken.


----------



## KaffieneKing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Toan*
> 
> My "almost" complete build in the Enthoo Primo. Some things have changed since the photo was taken.
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Looks nice but would be good to tie in the mobo a bit more, maybe custom paint the fan rings to match it? Also please replace the rear exhaust fan get one to match the others, other than that looks great!


----------



## Toan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaffieneKing*
> 
> Looks nice but would be good to tie in the mobo a bit more, maybe custom paint the fan rings to match it? Also please replace the rear exhaust fan get one to match the others, other than that looks great!


I have gigabyte orange pastel coming in soon and custom sleeved cables that accent the orange also.

I wanted the orange on the mobo to accent the rest of of the build and not actually be a main color in the build


----------



## Faster_is_better

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Toan*
> 
> My "almost" complete build in the Enthoo Primo. Some things have changed since the photo was taken.


Nice, I was actually thinking of putting a res in the spot you have that tube going down through the grommet (probably into the pump), and running from the bottom of that into my pump. Phanteks did a nice job with this case, it is an interesting way to route tubing and I like the option.

*Just a general PSA.*
I emailed Phanteks about getting a clear window for the Primo, they said they have something in the works but couldn't comment on release date.


----------



## Toan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Faster_is_better*
> 
> Nice, I was actually thinking of putting a res in the spot you have that tube going down through the grommet (probably into the pump), and running from the bottom of that into my pump. Phanteks did a nice job with this case, it is an interesting way to route tubing and I like the option.
> 
> *Just a general PSA.*
> I emailed Phanteks about getting a clear window for the Primo, they said they have something in the works but couldn't comment on release date.


Yea I have a FrozenQ reservoir that will go on that mounting plate Phanteks includes but the reservoir leaked real bad at the end caps when I filled it to test for leaks. Won't be able to finish this until FrozenQ gets back to me.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Toan*
> 
> My "almost" complete build in the Enthoo Primo. Some things have changed since the photo was taken.


Unless it's one of the things that's changed since that pic, your SLI tube routing is such that fluid will simply flow past with no flow actually going through both blocks. Either your top inlet or bottom outlet needs to be moved to the left side to keep parallel flow through the cards or else remove the right side tube between the cards and put stop plugs in place of it for serial flow.

This is very important. The way you have it will overheat those cards in almost no time at all, possibly damaging them both.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Unless it's one of the things that's changed since that pic, your SLI tube routing is such that fluid will simply flow past with no flow actually going through both blocks. Either your top inlet or bottom outlet needs to be moved to the left side to keep parallel flow through the cards or else remove the right side tube between the cards and put stop plugs in place of it for serial flow.
> 
> This is very important. The way you have it will overheat those cards in almost no time at all, possibly damaging them both.


no one wants toasty cards


----------



## Toan

that line in the middle isnt there anymore.


----------



## Ryankirsch13

Does anyone know of a nice way to Mount a 3.5 HDD without the hard drive bays in the Luxe? Have 1 ssd occupying a bracket on the back


----------



## Fickle Pickle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ryankirsch13*
> 
> Does anyone know of a nice way to Mount a 3.5 HDD without the hard drive bays in the Luxe? Have 1 ssd occupying a bracket on the back


Mount it in the optical drive bays using an adapter.

Or in my case, I actually just screwed it to the side of the optical drive bay. There's just enough space between the drive bay side and the rear panel.


----------



## Ryankirsch13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fickle Pickle*
> 
> Mount it in the optical drive bays using an adapter.
> 
> Or in my case, I actually just screwed it to the side of the optical drive bay. There's just enough space between the drive bay side and the rear panel.


Awesome idea! I'll play around with it, any thoughts on rubber pieces to insulate? Can't remember if those bays have anything like that


----------



## emsj86

Not sure if it's sold seperate but the mini xl has a bracket like the ssd do that will mount your hdd in those slots or you can screw/3m tape it to the back mobo or optical bays. Or you can do what I had before which is buy a 5 usd optical bay hdd holder. Mine actually holds the hdd and the ssd on the bottom in one bay slot. I moves it bc the cables were showing and I needed my build to look it's best


----------



## Fickle Pickle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ryankirsch13*
> 
> Awesome idea! I'll play around with it, any thoughts on rubber pieces to insulate? Can't remember if those bays have anything like that


You can probably buy some rubber or silicone washers to use.


----------



## Ryankirsch13

Thanks for the ideas everyone! I'll try the optical drive bay.. Don't want to tape it to the tray or 5.25 bay as I move my PC sometimes


----------



## Dorito Bandit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ryankirsch13*
> 
> Thanks for the ideas everyone! I'll try the optical drive bay.. Don't want to tape it to the tray or 5.25 bay as I move my PC sometimes


Just be creative! Place it around in there till you find the "perfect" spot.


----------



## blueballs

what you guys think of this one:http://www.newegg.ca/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811854013&cm_re=enthoo_primo-_-11-854-013-_-Product

with black hardwares / 200-250mm reservoir with red liquid ...


----------



## LandonAaron

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wjturner78*
> 
> 
> Any 140mm fan will work I had a noctua In at first then swapped it to the same fans as my build


How do you like those dead silence fans?


----------



## MikkoM

Finished today building my system in Evolv ITX! Maybe next some modifycation would be painting fans to red and add maybe some red coolant and small window...


----------



## LandonAaron

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blueballs*
> 
> what you guys think of this one:http://www.newegg.ca/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811854013&cm_re=enthoo_primo-_-11-854-013-_-Product
> 
> with black hardwares / 200-250mm reservoir with red liquid ...


I think having red fluid it may end up a little to red. I think with that case it would look better with black rubber hose like EK ZMT.


----------



## blueballs

I need some more colors/match suggestions with the Entho primo SE Black/Red!!!!

does dual titan x on ek wc block fit with the res bracket?


----------



## Faster_is_better

Here's what my rig looked like on air cooling. Just a couple shots that I will keep for my before/after when I do the build log with full custom loop.












I transferred all of that back into my HAF for now so I can strip the Primo down and do a bit of modding/planning.


----------



## Wallboy

Hi all, I'm having some heat issues with my 970's in an Enthoo Luxe case. The top 970 can reach 80c while the bottom is usually 10 degree less -- due to the the top card sucking in hot air from the second. With the side panel off, they run 8-10 degrees cooler.

I have 2x NF-A14 PWM Exhaust and 2x NF-A14 PWM Intake in the front with only 1 HDD Bay installed in the bottom slot. The Top Intake NF-A14 is completely unobstructed. However they don't seem to move enough air to reach inbetween my GPUs and I can feel a lot of hot air right between them. So I'm thinking of buying a 120mm and installing it on the top HDD Bay so that it would be directly blowing on and inbetween my GPU's.

My concern now though is how difficult it will be to install the fan with my system all assembled. I'm guessing you can't install the fan and then insert the HDD Bay afterwards? Just hope I can find enough room to screw in the fan without my GPU's or D15 Cooler getting in the way.

As far as the type of fan, I'll probably continue with Noctua, but I'm unsure which would be best between these three: NF-S12A, NF-P12, NF-F12. Keeping in mind that the fan will be sucking air through the empty top HDD Bay.

Thanks for the help.


----------



## porro

Hey guys,

I've just ordered a new gaming rig, including the Phanteks Enthoo Pro.

From my previous build I still have 4 noctua fans (very happy about them):
- 3x NF-S12A FLX
- 1x NF-A14 FLX

Also I'll be using a Kraken X61.

I'm not so good with fan placement / push pull / neg or pos air pressure, so I was hoping you guys could give me some suggestions here.

Thanks in advance,
porro.


----------



## sav4

Anyone know if the Enthoo mini ,primo 3.5hd brackets fit in the luxe ?


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wallboy*
> 
> Hi all, I'm having some heat issues with my 970's in an Enthoo Luxe case. The top 970 can reach 80c while the bottom is usually 10 degree less -- due to the the top card sucking in hot air from the second. With the side panel off, they run 8-10 degrees cooler.
> 
> I have 2x NF-A14 PWM Exhaust and 2x NF-A14 PWM Intake in the front with only 1 HDD Bay installed in the bottom slot. The Top Intake NF-A14 is completely unobstructed. However they don't seem to move enough air to reach inbetween my GPUs and I can feel a lot of hot air right between them. So I'm thinking of buying a 120mm and installing it on the top HDD Bay so that it would be directly blowing on and inbetween my GPU's.
> 
> My concern now though is how difficult it will be to install the fan with my system all assembled. I'm guessing you can't install the fan and then insert the HDD Bay afterwards? Just hope I can find enough room to screw in the fan without my GPU's or D15 Cooler getting in the way.
> 
> As far as the type of fan, I'll probably continue with Noctua, but I'm unsure which would be best between these three: NF-S12A, NF-P12, NF-F12. Keeping in mind that the fan will be sucking air through the empty top HDD Bay.
> 
> Thanks for the help.


Instead of blowing air around trying to cool your 970s', I suggest figuring out an airflow pattern that is removing their heated exhaust with as little of it as possible mixing with the cool airflow going to their fans. Not an easy goal to achieve with the way graphic cards dump their heated exhaust air everywhere.







You might find the guides in "Ways to better Cooling" link below helpful.


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Instead of blowing air around trying to cool your 970s', I suggest figuring out an airflow pattern that is removing their heated exhaust with as little of it as possible mixing with the cool airflow going to their fans. Not an easy goal to achieve with the way graphic cards dump their heated exhaust air everywhere.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You might find the guides in "Ways to better Cooling" link below helpful.


Personally I will be using thin pieces of paper placed around the case to figure out the air flow. That way I can see if the air blows over the vital components such as the motherboard chipset, VRMs and the RAM. I suppose you can do the same to ensure that the air from the GPUs gets exhausted out of the case by first finding where it ends up and then just start directing it where you want.


----------



## doyll

I preach air*flow*, not air_blow_








I sometimes use smoke matches to see what the flow pattern is.


----------



## Wallboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Instead of blowing air around trying to cool your 970s', I suggest figuring out an airflow pattern that is removing their heated exhaust with as little of it as possible mixing with the cool airflow going to their fans. Not an easy goal to achieve with the way graphic cards dump their heated exhaust air everywhere.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You might find the guides in "Ways to better Cooling" link below helpful.


Yeah I'm not sure what else I can really do. But the fan on the HDD Bay only inches away from the cards would seem like it would help a lot. Especially with that top card getting some direct cool air. The rest of my system seems to have good flow. Lots of hot air coming out from the Exhaust fans. It's just the GPU's seem to have a lot of hot stagnant air around them.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wallboy*
> 
> Yeah I'm not sure what else I can really do. But the fan on the HDD Bay only inches away from the cards would seem like it would help a lot. Especially with that top card getting some direct cool air. The rest of my system seems to have good flow. Lots of hot air coming out from the Exhaust fans. It's just the GPU's seem to have a lot of hot stagnant air around them.


It isn't so much about how much hot air we feel coming out of case, but how much hot air is mixing with the cool air going ot GPU cooler fans (and CPU cooler fans too). That's why when I'm setting up the airflow in a case I monitor the air temp going into cooler fans.


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> I preach air*flow*, not air_blow_
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I sometimes use smoke matches to see what the flow pattern is.


That's a nice trick, as for airflow vs "airblow" (your words not mine)... I just said it was blowing in a direction, but it may have been wrong in this instance (you got what I meant though)








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wallboy*
> 
> Yeah I'm not sure what else I can really do. But the fan on the HDD Bay only inches away from the cards would seem like it would help a lot. Especially with that top card getting some direct cool air. The rest of my system seems to have good flow. Lots of hot air coming out from the Exhaust fans. It's just the GPU's seem to have a lot of hot stagnant air around them.


You can place fans in several different angles if you really want proper air flow. It's an interesting concept with brackets that I noticed they do a lot of at Puget systems while watching the @barnacules nergasm vids. Such brackets could prove useful with open style GPU coolers, you can see what I mean 



.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> That's a nice trick, as for airflow vs "airblow" (your words not mine)... I just said it was blowing in a direction, but it may have been wrong in this instance (you got what I meant though)


Indeed.
The point is that fast moving air is more prone to swirling around and mixing with other air in the case .. most of which is at a higher temperature than new air coming into case. I've helped a couple of people in the use of a duct from intake to upper GPU to help supply it with cool air. Biggest problem is often there is only 20mm between the back of lower GPU and fan trying to pull air into top GPU. At to this that all heated exhaust coming out of GPU toward motherboard is drawn back in .. as is most of what comes off of the front... and the only sources of cool intake air are the small gaps between cards on front and top (side farthest away from mobo) .. which in most cases is less airflow area than the fans airflow area. Not a good combination.


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Indeed.
> The point is that fast moving air is more prone to swirling around and mixing with other air in the case .. most of which is at a higher temperature than new air coming into case. I've helped a couple of people in the use of a duct from intake to upper GPU to help supply it with cool air. Biggest problem is often there is only 20mm between the back of lower GPU and fan trying to pull air into top GPU. At to this that all heated exhaust coming out of GPU toward motherboard is drawn back in .. as is most of what comes off of the front... and the only sources of cool intake air are the small gaps between cards on front and top (side farthest away from mobo) .. which in most cases is less airflow area than the fans airflow area. Not a good combination.


Yeah, it's why I'm sort of annoyed no one does radial fan after market coolers any more. I I think a 92mm radial fan triple slot card with a good heat sink would perform quite well. It's what most manufacturers are doing anyway so why not push the air out of the case instead of trapping it inside... Also who doesn't like the sound of a vacuum cleaner









But yeah, the only real alternative to these style coolers seems to be water cooling as you can actually get the hot air out of the case instead of trapping it there like the blower style coolers do.

Edit: unless of course a shroud would be enough...


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wallboy*
> 
> Yeah I'm not sure what else I can really do. But the fan on the HDD Bay only inches away from the cards would seem like it would help a lot. Especially with that top card getting some direct cool air. The rest of my system seems to have good flow. Lots of hot air coming out from the Exhaust fans. It's just the GPU's seem to have a lot of hot stagnant air around them.


I used 140mm on the bottom below my cards and two. 120mm on the hdd bays and that helped my gpu temps a lot when I was air cooling


----------



## porro

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *porro*
> 
> Hey guys,
> 
> I've just ordered a new gaming rig, including the Phanteks Enthoo Pro.
> 
> From my previous build I still have 4 noctua fans (very happy about them):
> - 3x NF-S12A FLX
> - 1x NF-A14 FLX
> 
> Also I'll be using a Kraken X61.
> 
> I'm not so good with fan placement / push pull / neg or pos air pressure, so I was hoping you guys could give me some suggestions here.
> 
> Thanks in advance,
> porro.


Anyone?

I was thinking of grabbing another NF-A14 and doing:

INTAKE:
- 2x NF-A14 in the front
- 2x NF-S12A in the bottom

EXHAUST:
- 2x 140mm from the Kraken x61 in the top
- 1x NF-S12A int the back

That gives me more intake than exhaust , so a pos air pressure.
What do you think?


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *porro*
> 
> Anyone?
> 
> I was thinking of grabbing another NF-A14 and doing:
> 
> INTAKE:
> - 2x NF-A14 in the front
> - 2x NF-S12A in the bottom
> 
> EXHAUST:
> - 2x 140mm from the Kraken x61 in the top
> - 1x NF-S12A int the back
> 
> That gives me more intake than exhaust , so a pos air pressure.
> What do you think?


Positive pressure is good when dust is concerned, negative pressure is a few degrees better when temps are concerned but you will have to clean those rads far more often. As for the fans in use... just don't ditch the Phanteks fans that came with the case, they perform the same as the A14s so you could save some cash by using them. Noctuas are good but not the end all be all of fans anymore, they used to be on top when noise/performance was concerned with the S12B if I remember correctly but since then many others have released better fans, so fans like the PH-140SP perform the same as the NF-A14. Also you might actually get the same performance by removing the s12a from exhaust and simply run the 2 front fans (or 1 depending on how many disks you have), and simply having the bottom fan and the front fan as intake. I don't know as much about airflow as others though so, more answers are always great to determine this.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> Positive pressure is good when dust is concerned, *negative pressure is a few degrees better when temps are concerned* but you will have to clean those rads far more often. As for the fans in use... just don't ditch the Phanteks fans that came with the case, they perform the same as the A14s so you could save some cash by using them. Noctuas are good but not the end all be all of fans anymore, they used to be on top when noise/performance was concerned with the S12B if I remember correctly but since then many others have released better fans, so fans like the PH-140SP perform the same as the NF-A14. Also you might actually get the same performance by removing the s12a from exhaust and simply run the 2 front fans (or 1 depending on how many disks you have), and simply having the bottom fan and the front fan as intake. I don't know as much about airflow as others though so, more answers are always great to determine this.


Good advice, but I have to respectfully disagree with your "negative pressure is a few degrees better." It is not the negative pressure, but the change is airflow inside the case that increases or decreases the temperature of air going to cooler intakes and other components. All the air we push into a case has to flow out .. and conversely all of the air we pull out of a case has to first flow into case. "Negative pressure" or "positive pressure" is almost non-existent. It is only enough to cause airflow. Denser air move to equalize areas of lower dense air .. just like high pressure air moves into low pressure areas on a weather map.


----------



## porro

Thanks for the advice Rainmaker!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Good advice, but I have to respectfully disagree with your "negative pressure is a few degrees better." It is not the negative pressure, but the change is airflow inside the case that increases or decreases the temperature of air going to cooler intakes and other components. All the air we push into a case has to flow out .. and conversely all of the air we pull out of a case has to first flow into case. "Negative pressure" or "positive pressure" is almost non-existent. It is only enough to cause airflow. Denser air move to equalize areas of lower dense air .. just like high pressure air moves into low pressure areas on a weather map.


You seem to have some knowledge about the subject, so what do you think of my idea?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *porro*
> 
> INTAKE:
> - 2x NF-A14 in the front
> - 2x NF-S12A in the bottom
> 
> EXHAUST:
> - 2x 140mm from the Kraken x61 in the top
> - 1x NF-S12A int the back


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Good advice, but I have to respectfully disagree with your "negative pressure is a few degrees better." It is not the negative pressure, but the change is airflow inside the case that increases or decreases the temperature of air going to cooler intakes and other components. All the air we push into a case has to flow out .. and conversely all of the air we pull out of a case has to first flow into case. "Negative pressure" or "positive pressure" is almost non-existent. It is only enough to cause airflow. Denser air move to equalize areas of lower dense air .. just like high pressure air moves into low pressure areas on a weather map.


It's more a figure of speech than what actually happens, the difference in pressure inside a case compared to the exterior atmosphere is near non existent. The result is the change in airflow as you say as you simply get more air moved in one direction then another, thus changing the flow of things. Still it's two terms that is so established in the community that I simply continue using them.

I'll leave the rest up to you though as I clearly don't have enough info behind me to give any detailed advice, but I can talk about what others have told me and so on


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *porro*
> 
> Thanks for the advice Rainmaker!
> You seem to have some knowledge about the subject, so what do you think of my idea?


Should work.

I don't know how the airflow to / from GPU will be. The exhaust may pull heated exhaust from GPU out .. or it may move it up to radiator. Only trying different combinations and monitoring airflow and temperature will tell us for sure.


----------



## MrGrievous

Thank you everyone for suggesting to tighten the rear fan screws seems that did the trick as I havnt heard the case vibrate since then.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrGrievous*
> 
> Thank you everyone for suggesting to tighten the rear fan screws seems that did the trick as I havnt heard the case vibrate since then.


Thanks for letting us know it stopped our vibration.








Always like to hear the results of our suggestions .. even if they don't work.


----------



## SLOWION

New cooler for my HTPC, yay









Before


After


Still think I may rotate the cooler to face the top of the case...its kinda cramped in there now


----------



## emsj86

Those be quiet our nice. The cpu cooler reminds me of the cooler master full tower case with the hdd fan coolers


----------



## MrPatate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SLOWION*
> 
> New cooler for my HTPC, yay
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After
> 
> 
> Still think I may rotate the cooler to face the top of the case...its kinda cramped in there now


Which cooler is it? Maybe I misunderstood what you wrote but can the heat pipes/heatsink really be rotated to change the angle of the fan (instead of fan pushing down, it can push on the side)?


----------



## Toan

The cable management in this case is probably one of the best I've ever had to deal with except for my haf xb. Easily routed 16 fans to the back pwm controller.


----------



## SLOWION

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrPatate*
> 
> Which cooler is it? Maybe I misunderstood what you wrote but can the heat pipes/heatsink really be rotated to change the angle of the fan (instead of fan pushing down, it can push on the side)?


It's the be quiet! Shadow Rock LP

Fan is staying as is, I want to rotate the cooler so the end of the heat pipes are facing towards the top of the case. It's kind of a tight fit as is because right now the cooler hangs over the RAM, 24-pin connector and USB 3.0 connector


----------



## MrPatate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SLOWION*
> 
> It's the be quiet! Shadow Rock LP
> 
> Fan is staying as is, I want to rotate the cooler so the end of the heat pipes are facing towards the top of the case. It's kind of a tight fit as is because right now the cooler hangs over the RAM, 24-pin connector and USB 3.0 connector


Thanks, makes a lot more sense than what i understood ahah


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SLOWION*
> 
> It's the be quiet! Shadow Rock LP
> 
> Fan is staying as is, I want to rotate the cooler so the end of the heat pipes are facing towards the top of the case. It's kind of a tight fit as is because right now the cooler hangs over the RAM, 24-pin connector and USB 3.0 connector


FYI
Years back Noctua published this about their downflow cooler.


Not sure if it's applicable as there are several different heat pipe designs; different wicks,coolant, pressure variables etc. involved.

TheLab.gr cooler testing involves different cooler orientation, and there is usually a little difference in temps. Problem is translators do a poor job of Greek transation.


----------



## SLOWION

cool so I've got a 75% chance of not screwing up


----------



## owcraftsman

Got My ENTHOO LUXE B&W this week and had a chance to sit down and spend some time with it this weekend.









Here's the planned build





So what do you think?


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *owcraftsman*
> 
> Got My ENTHOO LUXE B&W this week and had a chance to sit down and spend some time with it this weekend.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Pics:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the planned build
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So what do you think?


the case looks good, as for the tube routing... I would personally reverse the inlet/outlet of the CPU block, and maybe move the inlet/outlet for the top radiator to the rear of the case. I tend to think a build looks best when you have as few tube runs as possible overlapping. By moving the rad you can also fill up a bit of that empty space if that is something you are after. I would encourage you to do a couple of trial fittings and go with what you think looks best.

If you are going to use rigid tubing then, you may end up having a nice looking build with the first one as well. But then again rigid tubing changes everything since you can do all sorts of crazy looking runs.


----------



## owcraftsman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *owcraftsman*
> 
> Got My ENTHOO LUXE B&W this week and had a chance to sit down and spend some time with it this weekend.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Pics:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the planned build
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So what do you think?
> 
> 
> 
> the case looks good, as for the tube routing... I would personally reverse the inlet/outlet of the CPU block, and maybe move the inlet/outlet for the top radiator to the rear of the case. I tend to think a build looks best when you have as few tube runs as possible overlapping. By moving the rad you can also fill up a bit of that empty space if that is something you are after. I would encourage you to do a couple of trial fittings and go with what you think looks best.
> 
> If you are going to use rigid tubing then, you may end up having a nice looking build with the first one as well. But then again rigid tubing changes everything since you can do all sorts of crazy looking runs.
Click to expand...

TY Rainmaker for the response. I used to know a Rainmaker that had a nice blog back in my DFI LanParty NF4 days not sure if that's you but good to have you around here.

For filling and draining I think I'll keep the top rad orientation. note: when filling from the top rad water drops directly into bottom rad and reservoir at the same time without cycling the pump to push things through the loop. I've employed this technique many time in the past and love the way it works. Draining is way easier too. There is a school of thought that says a loop with two rads should put those rads between components. i.e. pump>cpu>rad>gpu>rad>pump but I believe all temps normalize after a given time anyway so I see no advantage in the long run and it's a more cluttered look too.

I actually made a mistake with paint. The Raystorm I'm using has the inlet on the right not the left which will clean up that look with a 90 degree (inlet) and 45 degree (outlet) but I will be playing with it a bit as you suggest. Also Ill be adding a drain port at the bottom of the front panel rad.

I was confusing two builds. This system is currently in my Primo and making the move to the Luxe. The primo will be getting a Z97 and 4790k with an EK-SUPREMACY-EVO waterblock which has the inlet on the left, if you want the EK logo right side up that is or I could go goofy, lol.

I'll be using flexible tubing so I can, with least amount of slack possible, move the reservoir in and out enough to get to the top fill ports. I love the look of the rigid tubing but not good for a dual bay res.


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *owcraftsman*
> 
> Got My ENTHOO LUXE B&W this week and had a chance to sit down and spend some time with it this weekend.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the planned build
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So what do you think?


you painted this yourself? if so, what paint did you use?


----------



## owcraftsman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PureBlackFire*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *owcraftsman*
> 
> Got My ENTHOO LUXE B&W this week and had a chance to sit down and spend some time with it this weekend.
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Enthoo Luxe B&W
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the planned build
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So what do you think?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> you painted this yourself? if so, what paint did you use?
Click to expand...

Yes my quality time with the case was disassembling prepping and painting. I used Rustoleum Satin (White) 2 cans 2 coats one day start to finish.


----------



## PureBlackFire

thanks.


----------



## Onyxian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *owcraftsman*
> 
> Yes my quality time with the case was disassembling prepping and painting. I used Rustoleum Satin (White) 2 cans 2 coats one day start to finish.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Cool, I'll be doing something similar soon.


----------



## MrPatate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *owcraftsman*
> 
> Yes my quality time with the case was disassembling prepping and painting. I used Rustoleum Satin (White) 2 cans 2 coats one day start to finish.


The case looks amazing with this mix of black and white... Will probably steal this idea


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrPatate*
> 
> The case looks amazing with this mix of black and white... Will probably steal this idea


i was thinking of doing this for a while, but I have the white. ever since I saw the Primo special edition I thought it would be great to have a Luxe just like it. it really does look great.


----------



## emsj86

They really should start doing more colors or even have it where you can ordered it from phanteks that way for a premium day 200 on the luxe and 325 on the primo


----------



## owcraftsman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PureBlackFire*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *MrPatate*
> 
> The case looks amazing with this mix of black and white... Will probably steal this idea
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i was thinking of doing this for a while, but I have the white. ever since I saw the Primo special edition I thought it would be great to have a Luxe just like it. it really does look great.
Click to expand...

Thanks Guys! I'm happy with it so far. @MrPatate Imitation is the sincerest form of flattery so have at it just don't forget to share. Debating what I'm going to do with the Primo when I break it down maybe a different color. One thing I know for sure my passion for Phanteks cases is growing. There are still plenty of rivets but the modularity they have make modding them a breeze. Stay tuned the components install is next.


----------



## emsj86

For those with the pro. What's the largest 360 rad that can fit. Looking for something that had a bleed port or fill port for when I drain to have it full drain as coolant gets stuck in the ex360 bc the only port I can take off when draining is the reservior top port. Half tempted to email phanteks to see of I can just buy the front and too panel for the luxe as the chasis is the same as the pro. They shipped me a new side panel before for under 15usd so maybe they can do this. Either way thanks in advance.


----------



## Native89

Anyone air cooling in a Luxe?
Sending my H100i in for RMA with a broken pump after only a month and have come to the realization that there are too many things that can go wrong with these CLC's.
In the meantime I've never used any air coolers apart from the stock Intel one and would like to delve into it a bit. At least until I can afford to go water cooling, if ever.

Just looking for suggestions at the moment, but have two in mind. The TC14PE and NHD15.
It'll be cooling a 4690k with a mild OC. Thanks.


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Native89*
> 
> Anyone air cooling in a Luxe?
> Sending my H100i in for RMA with a broken pump after only a month and have come to the realization that there are too many things that can go wrong with these CLC's.
> In the meantime I've never used any air coolers apart from the stock Intel one and would like to delve into it a bit. At least until I can afford to go water cooling, if ever.
> 
> Just looking for suggestions at the moment, but have two in mind. The TC14PE and NHD15.
> It'll be cooling a 4690k with a mild OC. Thanks.


TC14PE and NH-D15 are fine (provided you have low profile ram). for your needs the TC12DX_BK or Thermalright TS140 Power would do fine too.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Native89*
> 
> Anyone air cooling in a Luxe?
> Sending my H100i in for RMA with a broken pump after only a month and have come to the realization that there are too many things that can go wrong with these CLC's.
> In the meantime I've never used any air coolers apart from the stock Intel one and would like to delve into it a bit. At least until I can afford to go water cooling, if ever.
> 
> Just looking for suggestions at the moment, but have two in mind. The TC14PE and NHD15.
> It'll be cooling a 4690k with a mild OC. Thanks.


Your ears are going to be quite happy. So will your CPU. Among the things can go wrong with CLCs is incredibly bad noise/performance, and they simply don't offer better overall performance than the air coolers you are looking at.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PureBlackFire*
> 
> TC14PE and NH-D15 are fine (provided you have low profile ram). for your needs the TC12DX_BK or Thermalright TS140 Power would do fine too.


Agreed. I would add the Cryorig R1 and be quiet! Dark Rock Pro 3 into the dual tower mix, not only for performance but for aesthetics and quiet. Any of those four will outperform (or perform on par with) the H100i with _far_ less noise.

I would also add the Cryorig H5 Ultimate, be quiet! Dark Rock 3 and Noctua NH-U14S into the single tower mix. On a 4690K with a mild OC the differences in temps between the single and dual towers will be almost nothing.


----------



## zeppoli

So I just bought a Enthoo Luxe.
Also have a h100iGTX. When installing it on the top, do I put the fans on top of the rad. under the screen on top? and the rad. under that?
Or do I put the fans right on top of the radiator?

thanks


----------



## zeppoli

Also, for total cooling, I was going to have the stock top fan switched to the bottom and have it as an intake, and the front fan intake. The back fan exhaust and the top rad, exhaust.
I have other fans if I need them, but they are case fans not pressure fans.

Is that ok for now?


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zeppoli*
> 
> So I just bought a Enthoo Luxe.
> Also have a h100iGTX. When installing it on the top, do I put the fans on top of the rad. under the screen on top? and the rad. under that?
> Or do I put the fans right on top of the radiator?
> 
> thanks


whichever you like.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zeppoli*
> 
> Also, for total cooling, I was going to have the stock top fan switched to the bottom and have it as an intake, and the front fan intake. The back fan exhaust and the top rad, exhaust.
> I have other fans if I need them, but they are case fans not pressure fans.
> 
> Is that ok for now?


that would be fine for now. you can use the edit button instead of double posting.


----------



## zeppoli

So I would be putting the two fans from the corsair H100i on the top of the case under the screen and the radiator would be on the inside of the case.
I was just worried because the fans would be pressed up against the metal frame rather than the radiator.
Also from all the pictures, no one does that,if they dont do a push pull they put the fans on top of the radiator as designed.

like this (only with the phanteks case)

http://forum.corsair.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=12534&d=1366206280

but when I look through this thread, everyone has their fans on the bottom of the radiator in push configuration. Just seems weird to me, why would you want that exposed when we have a great top mount area to hide the fans.. Is it more efficient to push rather than pull?


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zeppoli*
> 
> So I would be putting the two fans from the corsair H100i on the top of the case under the screen and the radiator would be on the inside of the case.
> I was just worried because the fans would be pressed up against the metal frame rather than the radiator.
> Also from all the pictures, no one does that,if they dont do a push pull they put the fans on top of the radiator as designed.
> 
> like this (only with the phanteks case)
> 
> http://forum.corsair.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=12534&d=1366206280
> 
> but when I look through this thread, everyone has their fans on the bottom of the radiator in push configuration. Just seems weird to me, why would you want that exposed when we have a great top mount area to hide the fans.. Is it more efficient to push rather than pull?


I had my H100i in pull. temps aren't much different either way.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PureBlackFire*
> 
> TC14PE and NH-D15 are fine (provided you have low profile ram). for your needs the TC12DX_BK or Thermalright TS140 Power would do fine too.


Most coolers do not need low profile RAM .. 40-45mm RAM will fit under most .. but they will not clear tall / high profile RAM.








TC12DX is similar to TRUE Spirit 120 while TRUE Spirit 140 Power is similar to NH-D14.


----------



## zeppoli

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PureBlackFire*
> 
> I had my H100i in pull. temps aren't much different either way.


yea it looks like thats the case from my small research.

So then I would question this a little different.
To everyone with a 240 radiator setup, why do you have the fans on the bottom in push configuration, do you think it looks better?


----------



## NFL

Looking at picking up an Evolv ITX for my upcoming build, and I have a question: Given the small gap between the PSU cover and the GPU, would a reference GPU make more sense than a non-ref open air variant?


----------



## pcrevolution

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NFL*
> 
> Looking at picking up an Evolv ITX for my upcoming build, and I have a question: Given the small gap between the PSU cover and the GPU, would a reference GPU make more sense than a non-ref open air variant?


I have the Evolv ITX and the top of the PSU 'cover' has large holes as well. Coupled with the 200mm fan you should be able to direct air towards the rear of the chassis to be exhausted by a rear fan.


----------



## Onyxian

My Primo came in yesterday! And a couple other parts on Monday.

Doing some test spraying with the Plastidip to see if I can get the color I want. Forgot the Glossifier in the first picture.





Surprising amount of the case is still riveted, will have to do what owcraftsman did with the bigger part of the interior and just mask it all off.

Will also need to take apart the Gentle Typhoons to paint those.


----------



## Dorito Bandit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Onyxian*
> 
> My Primo came in yesterday! And a couple other parts on Monday.
> 
> Doing some test spraying with the Plastidip to see if I can get the color I want. Forgot the Glossifier in the first picture.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Surprising amount of the case is still riveted, will have to do what owcraftsman did with the bigger part of the interior and just mask it all off.
> 
> Will also need to take apart the Gentle Typhoons to paint those.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Looking forward to seeing the finished product, as I am sure it's going to look great once completed









Best of luck with everything!


----------



## Onyxian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dorito Bandit*
> 
> Looking forward to seeing the finished product, as I am sure it's going to look great once completed
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Best of luck with everything!


I hope so, lot of work I've never done before. And it's difficult finding places to do this and store all the things in this house. Dad's a hoarder so I don't really have room for my stuff. Lost one of the springs of one of the GTs cause I dropped it in one of his abysses.


----------



## fisher6

I have a question about the Enthoo pro. I would to get it as an upgrade from the H440 but would like to remove all the HDD and drive bay cages. Is it possible to mount an SSD and a normal HDD behind the motherboad? Also, how could the reservoir be mounted with the HDD cages gone (other than the rear). Thanks.


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fisher6*
> 
> I have a question about the Enthoo pro. I would to get it as an upgrade from the H440 but would like to remove all the HDD and drive bay cages. Is it possible to mount an SSD and a normal HDD behind the motherboad? Also, how could the reservoir be mounted with the HDD cages gone (other than the rear). Thanks.


due to there being 27mm of pace (39mm at the psu section) you can only mount a regular HDD back there with sticky tape. you can mount it on the side of the 5.25" bay there's plenty of room there. the res bracket doen't mount to the hard drive bays or need them at all to be secured. I'm using it without any hDD cages.


----------



## fisher6

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PureBlackFire*
> 
> due to there being 27mm of pace (39mm at the psu section) you can only mount a regular HDD back there with sticky tape. you can mount it on the side of the 5.25" bay there's plenty of room there. the res bracket doen't mount to the hard drive bays or need them at all to be secured. I'm using it without any hDD cages.


Thanks for the reply. How would the reservoir look mounted without the HDD cages. Where is yours mounted exactly?


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fisher6*
> 
> Thanks for the reply. How would the reservoir look mounted without the HDD cages. Where is yours mounted exactly?


sure, I uploaded some pics a while back. it's int the default res mount location between the drive cage and motherboard tray.


http://imgur.com/Eb7Lu


----------



## fireisdangerous

My New Phanteks Evolv Itx.

http://s1022.photobucket.com/user/fireisdangerous/media/IMG_1742_zpspghmh2tf.jpg.html


----------



## fisher6

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PureBlackFire*
> 
> sure, I uploaded some pics a while back. it's int the default res mount location between the drive cage and motherboard tray.
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/Eb7Lu


Thanks, makes sense now. However, I'm planning on removing all the HDD cages and the optical drive bay too along with the side cover that covers the HDD area. That's why I'm wondering how I can mount the reservoir.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fisher6*
> 
> Thanks, makes sense now. However, I'm planning on removing all the HDD cages and the optical drive bay too along with the side cover that covers the HDD area. That's why I'm wondering how I can mount the reservoir.


sounds like custom mount time







I removed them both as well...my res is currently zip tied until I make my acrylic mount..I've started it and my hard drive mount...hopefully I'll get it done soon...my rig looks like a test bench thats upright...one positive is that it's easy to get to everything...also I left the side cover so it would be easier to mount the custom plates...


----------



## hernan86

Hi!

Im in


----------



## fisher6

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> sounds like custom mount time
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I removed them both as well...my res is currently zip tied until I make my acrylic mount..I've started it and my hard drive mount...hopefully I'll get it done soon...my rig looks like a test bench thats upright...one positive is that it's easy to get to everything...also I left the side cover so it would be easier to mount the custom plates...


Using a rad reservoir mount would also work I guess.


----------



## wjturner78

changed out the primo side window without any mechanical fastening



Im repainting my door so wasnt concerned with messing the finish up but if your careful you could do this and only have to repaint the inside. so far im very happy with the clear window and may expiriment with a red translucent. the thicker plexi panel adds significant weight to the door but also dampened sound from inside the case, also there is no wobble like the original window had


----------



## wjturner78

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LandonAaron*
> 
> How do you like those dead silence fans?


love them, look great work decent and are extremely quiet


----------



## wjturner78

i also did a little painting


----------



## Faster_is_better

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wjturner78*
> 
> changed out the primo side window without any mechanical fastening
> 
> 
> 
> Im repainting my door so wasnt concerned with messing the finish up but if your careful you could do this and only have to repaint the inside. so far im very happy with the clear window and may expiriment with a red translucent. the thicker plexi panel adds significant weight to the door but also dampened sound from inside the case, also there is no wobble like the original window had


Is that JB Weld?

I emailed Phanteks last week or maybe 2 weeks ago and they said they have a clear window in the works for Primo but of course no idea on availability.

Really nice paint job too, what paint did you use?


----------



## wjturner78

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Faster_is_better*
> 
> Is that JB Weld?
> 
> I emailed Phanteks last week or maybe 2 weeks ago and they said they have a clear window in the works for Primo but of course no idea on availability.
> 
> Really nice paint job too, what paint did you use?


lol no jbweld, there is nothing mechanical or adhesive used to mount the window, just cut the plexi to the exact dimensions of the top and bottom channel then bent the plexi in the middle to snap it into place. the marks you see are from my grinder after removing the stock mounting "rail"

i used rustoleum


----------



## By-Tor

I have been looking at cases for along time and thought about a couple of others that would have one issue or another on why I wouldn't want to use them on my next build.

The Enthoo Primo does it all and is a great looking case. I'm working with Asus ROG colors and the black/red case would look great, but would rather have a black/black. The only black/black I have found has blue LEDs and that's not going to work..

If anyone knows where I can get a black/black Primo with red LEDs please post a link.

Thanks


----------



## wjturner78

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *By-Tor*
> 
> I have been looking at cases for along time and thought about a couple of others that would have one issue or another on why I wouldn't want to use them on my next build.
> 
> The Enthoo Primo does it all and is a great looking case. I'm working with Asus ROG colors and the black/red case would look great, but would rather have a black/black. The only black/black I have found has blue LEDs and that's not going to work..
> 
> If anyone knows where I can get a black/black Primo with red LEDs please post a link.
> 
> Thanks


change the led's its not very challenging


----------



## Faster_is_better

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wjturner78*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Faster_is_better*
> 
> Is that JB Weld?
> 
> I emailed Phanteks last week or maybe 2 weeks ago and they said they have a clear window in the works for Primo but of course no idea on availability.
> 
> Really nice paint job too, what paint did you use?
> 
> 
> 
> lol no jbweld, there is nothing mechanical or adhesive used to mount the window, just cut the plexi to the exact dimensions of the top and bottom channel then bent the plexi in the middle to snap it into place. the marks you see are from my grinder after removing the stock mounting "rail"
> 
> i used rustoleum
Click to expand...

Aha, I see now. I didn't open up the larger pictures. I can see why it added so much weight too, its a full sheet nearly panel size piece of plexi.


----------



## wjturner78

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Faster_is_better*
> 
> Aha, I see now. I didn't open up the larger pictures. I can see why it added so much weight too, its a full sheet nearly panel size piece of plexi.


Yeah it definitely got heavier but as a bonus it also got quieter. I like the clear look alot better and am gonna try some translucent red to see how it looks with my theme


----------



## owcraftsman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wjturner78*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Faster_is_better*
> 
> Is that JB Weld?
> 
> I emailed Phanteks last week or maybe 2 weeks ago and they said they have a clear window in the works for Primo but of course no idea on availability.
> 
> Really nice paint job too, what paint did you use?
> 
> 
> 
> lol no jbweld, there is nothing mechanical or adhesive used to mount the window, just cut the plexi to the exact dimensions of the top and bottom channel then bent the plexi in the middle to snap it into place. the marks you see are from my grinder after removing the stock mounting "rail"
> 
> i used rustoleum
Click to expand...

Mad Skills! Awesome work! Love the red and black paint job too


----------



## wjturner78

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *owcraftsman*
> 
> Mad Skills! Awesome work! Love the red and black paint job too


thanks Wayne,your new black and white rig looks like it's gonna be a knockout


----------



## gsan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *COMBO2*
> 
> Thought I'd share the setup around here, see what you guys think! The build has been as so for about 6/7 months and I got the glasstop desks a few months after that. This is my second Primo, had a black one first time around which is now apart of the rig my parents use.


Nice setup. Mind to share more info and pic on how you mount d5 photon on this casing?


----------



## emsj86

. #Clear window master race


----------



## wjturner78

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> . #Clear window master race


how did you mount yours? I found some red translucent plexi that I'm gonna give a try it's extremely see-through with a red hue. I also may just use translucent vinyl film over the small window, gonna play around and see what looks best.


----------



## Ricardo Novo

My rig finally finished

I74770k
sd 250 gb
1tb hard drive
2x970 sli


----------



## wjturner78

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ricardo Novo*
> 
> My rig finally finished
> 
> I74770k
> sd 250 gb
> 1tb hard drive
> 2x970 sli


Nice build


----------



## emsj86

After a cracked plexi cpu and a lot of flushing she came back to me







. .


----------



## Ryankirsch13

Was finally able to figure out how to get rid of those drive bays and mount my storage drive, luckily its screwed in


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> After a cracked plexi cpu and a lot of flushing she came back to me
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . .


Yeah that definitely needed cleaning...


----------



## rfarmer

I just received my Enthoo Evol ITX, really like this case. Well designed and great looking.

Phanteks Enthoo Evolv iTX
Intel i5 4460 Haswell
Asrock H97M-itx/ac
MSI GTX 970
G Skill Ripsaws X Series 16GB (2X8GB) 1600 MHz
Corsair h105 AIO
Rosewill ARC-M650 650 watt
120GB Kingston SSD
2X1TB WD Green HDD


----------



## MikkoM

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rfarmer*
> 
> 
> 
> I just received my Enthoo Evol ITX, really like this case. Well designed and great looking.
> 
> Phanteks Enthoo Evolv iTX
> Intel i5 4460 Haswell
> Asrock H97M-itx/ac
> MSI GTX 970
> G Skill Ripsaws X Series 16GB (2X8GB) 1600 MHz
> Corsair h105 AIO
> Rosewill ARC-M650 650 watt
> 120GB Kingston SSD
> 2X1TB WD Green HDD


Did your top heating much with h105? i had radiator on top and its like a cooker. planting to do hole there.


----------



## rfarmer

No temps aren't too bad, 28C idle on the cpu and 30C on the motherboard. I had this setup in another case with the radiator set up as intake in the front of the case. Temps were 3C lower on the cpu but the motherboard temps were higher. I'll leave it for now.


----------



## owcraftsman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> After a cracked plexi cpu and a lot of flushing she came back to me
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . .


That looks like an EK evo water block which are relatively new. So how did block crack and what gummed it up so quickly? Please explain: What did the micro channels look like when you opened it up? Did the insert stain permanently? How long was it in service before you noticed a problem? etc etc


----------



## Faster_is_better

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ricardo Novo*
> 
> My rig finally finished
> 
> I74770k
> sd 250 gb
> 1tb hard drive
> 2x970 sli
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Thanks for pics, thats very similar to how i want to lay out my loop, same runs and similar components. Should help me decide on which fittings I need








Is that a 45 coming from CPU to Res?


----------



## Jonas75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> After a cracked plexi cpu and a lot of flushing she came back to me
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . .


What on earth happened to this block?


----------



## Jonas75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ricardo Novo*
> 
> My rig finally finished
> 
> I74770k
> sd 250 gb
> 1tb hard drive
> 2x970 sli


Very nice loop mate


----------



## wjturner78

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ryankirsch13*
> 
> 
> Was finally able to figure out how to get rid of those drive bays and mount my storage drive, luckily its screwed in


? I don't understand this


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wjturner78*
> 
> ? I don't understand this


wanted more space?


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wjturner78*
> 
> how did you mount yours? I found some red translucent plexi that I'm gonna give a try it's extremely see-through with a red hue. I also may just use translucent vinyl film over the small window, gonna play around and see what looks best.


I didn't have to grind away anything. Just removed the stock window. Than used a drill and drilled holes theough the acrylic and the panel. I than used recessed bolts and nuts to attach. Added a lot of wait but it doesn't creak and looks great without the crapy stock window. I'll get a better picture of how the windo was cut and the acrylic was shaved down bezeled edges and polished.


----------



## MikkoM

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rfarmer*
> 
> No temps aren't too bad, 28C idle on the cpu and 30C on the motherboard. I had this setup in another case with the radiator set up as intake in the front of the case. Temps were 3C lower on the cpu but the motherboard temps were higher. I'll leave it for now.


wow nice temps, my idle temps are some 40c cpu and gpu. ofc gtx 580 is hot card... or maybe i need just some slim radiator to front, one 240mm 60mm tickness radiator is not enough for i5 and 580


----------



## rfarmer

Yeah MikkoM I would guess that your gpu is raising your cpu temps, although with a 4690k I am guessing it is overclocked. My 970 idles at 45C on air and Maxwells are cool running cards. So 40C on your 580 sounds pretty good. Yeah a single radiator on that loop might not be enough for really cool temps.


----------



## Ryankirsch13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wjturner78*
> 
> ? I don't understand this


Have the HDD mounted to the back of the 5.25 bay so I can remove the cages


----------



## emsj86

What is everyone using or recommend for benchmarking (temps) for intel i7 specifically the 4790k. I've always used intel burn test. But feel it generates way more heat and rather use a more realistic method. Links wod help. I tried x264. But the download shows up in winrawr and I can't extract or get it running for some reason. Thanks


----------



## rfarmer

emsj86 do you have AviSynth 2.5.8 installed? Says you need it to run the x264 HD benchmark.

Double click run benchmark, the vbscript file and choose 32 or 64 bit depending on the version of AviSynth you have.


----------



## tasdefleja

*Evolv.*


----------



## owcraftsman

@tasdefleja

Nice build in a sweet case. I prefer water cooling but if I were to air cool I'd certainly consider one of those Be Quiet HS it looks awesome in your build.


----------



## tasdefleja

Thanks. When I saw this case for the first time i thought that i want it. Perfect for my needs.








LC mhmm... maybe in future.


----------



## Ricardo Novo

Yes Alphacool HF 16/10 45°.
i go to Alphacool fittings because the are good quality and cheaper.
the part of build i like more is between the res and punp i use 2 of this:
http://www.aquatuning.de/water-cooling/fittings/adapters/13529/alphacool-angled-adaptor-double-45-revolvable-g1/4-outer-thread-to-g1/4-inner-thread-chrome?c=511


----------



## Ricardo Novo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Faster_is_better*
> 
> Thanks for pics, thats very similar to how i want to lay out my loop, same runs and similar components. Should help me decide on which fittings I need
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Is that a 45 coming from CPU to Res?


Yes Alphacool HF 16/10 45°.
i go to Alphacool fittings because the are good quality and cheaper.
the part of build i like more is between the res and punp i use 2 of this:
http://www.aquatuning.de/water-cooling/fittings/adapters/13529/alphacool-angled-adaptor-double-45-revolvable-g1/4-outer-thread-to-g1/4-inner-thread-chrome?c=511


----------



## By-Tor

Ordered my Black/Red Primo last night.

Waiting on one last order from PPC and the build begins..


----------



## Gil80

hi all

My case is Phanteks Enthoo Primo with HDD cages removed.
I use 420/60 with P/P configuration and 280/45 in P/P configuration.
The large top rad feeds the GPU directly and the smaller bottom rad feeds the CPU.
I use two water reservoirs, Bay res and Tube res.
My loop is counter clockwise.

I need to fit another rad either at the front or at the side.
My D5 pump is placed at the front.
If I want to be consistent, I have to use the front area for 140mm fans and rad.

Questions are:
1. what will be the new place for the pump + pump mount + shoggy sandwich?
2. can I utilise the two front fans for the radiator?
3. What should the radiator thickness be? 30mm, 45mm?
4. Should I opt for P/P for that front rad or is it too much?


----------



## Onyxian

Coming along, tomorrow the big part of the rest of the case.


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gil80*
> 
> hi all
> 
> My case is Phanteks Enthoo Primo with HDD cages removed.
> I use 420/60 with P/P configuration and 280/45 in P/P configuration.
> The large top rad feeds the GPU directly and the smaller bottom rad feeds the CPU.
> I use two water reservoirs, Bay res and Tube res.
> My loop is counter clockwise.
> 
> I need to fit another rad either at the front or at the side.
> My D5 pump is placed at the front.
> If I want to be consistent, I have to use the front area for 140mm fans and rad.
> 
> Questions are:
> 1. what will be the new place for the pump + pump mount + shoggy sandwich?
> 2. can I utilise the two front fans for the radiator?
> 3. What should the radiator thickness be? 30mm, 45mm?
> 4. Should I opt for P/P for that front rad or is it too much?


Well there is always the mount that came with the case, beside the PSU.


----------



## Gil80

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> Well there is always the mount that came with the case, beside the PSU.


yep, I'm using this mount on the front of the case.

So what are my best options regarding radiators? I believe it's the front, however I want to be sure.


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gil80*
> 
> yep, I'm using this mount on the front of the case.
> 
> So what are my best options regarding radiators? I believe it's the front, however I want to be sure.


well if you have a 420 in top and a 280 in bottom then I would say a thick 240mm in front (as far as I know a 280mm wont fit). But you have plenty of space and if you go for thinner 30mm rads then I think you can even mount two 240mm rads in front at the same time if you wish. As for air flow... I think a front mounted would be better then side mounted since the air that goes through the rad wouldn't be pushed directly in to a wall but rather flow towards the back and out the top.


----------



## wjturner78

I finally got my build log moved into the sponsor section. Id appreciate it if all of the phanteks fans in here could subscribe to my build and help promote the company that makes these products we all love.

the thread is located here

http://www.overclock.net/t/1543515/build-log-project-phoenix-lights-enthoo-primo


----------



## Gil80

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> well if you have a 420 in top and a 280 in bottom then I would say a thick 240mm in front (as far as I know a 280mm wont fit). But you have plenty of space and if you go for thinner 30mm rads then I think you can even mount two 240mm rads in front at the same time if you wish. As for air flow... I think a front mounted would be better then side mounted since the air that goes through the rad wouldn't be pushed directly in to a wall but rather flow towards the back and out the top.


You're right, only 240mm rad will work in front.
So, I'm a bit confused now. I'd like to know that I order the right stuff so I have to ask








If the front case is already fitted with 2x 140mm fans, how would a 240mm rad fit with those fans??
OR I got this wrong and I have to place 2x 120mm fans on the 240 rad REGARDLESS of the 2x 140mm fans?

I think I'll stick with one rad instead of double 240. If I can fit a 240/45mm rad, then I'll do that, though I believe the temp differences from 30mm to 45mm are very low.

That's my current build:


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gil80*
> 
> You're right, only 240mm rad will work in front.
> So, I'm a bit confused now. I'd like to know that I order the right stuff so I have to ask
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If the front case is already fitted with 2x 140mm fans, how would a 240mm rad fit with those fans??
> OR I got this wrong and I have to place 2x 120mm fans on the 240 rad REGARDLESS of the 2x 140mm fans?
> 
> I think I'll stick with one rad instead of double 240. If I can fit a 240/45mm rad, then I'll do that, though I believe the temp differences from 30mm to 45mm are very low.
> 
> That's my current build:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


You can fit as thick of a rad in front as want really, but I would personally go for a 30mm thick one simply because it would allow you to keep the drive trays if needed and it would also be a good choice if you ever figure you would need that extra 240mm of rad space. As for how you would mount the fans... as far as I know you can still use the two 140mm fans on a 240mm radiator in front but I havent looked in to it myself as my conficuration is very different (two 480mm monsta rads actually). Still it should not be a problem as far as I know.

Edit: This should show you a bit of the capabilities of the case if you forgot about them (which I did)


----------



## bernieyee

My Evolv ITX window got scratched in the build process. What is the best way to buff them out?


----------



## Jonas75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gil80*
> 
> You're right, only 240mm rad will work in front.
> So, I'm a bit confused now. I'd like to know that I order the right stuff so I have to ask
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If the front case is already fitted with 2x 140mm fans, how would a 240mm rad fit with those fans??
> OR I got this wrong and I have to place 2x 120mm fans on the 240 rad REGARDLESS of the 2x 140mm fans?
> 
> I think I'll stick with one rad instead of double 240. If I can fit a 240/45mm rad, then I'll do that, though I believe the temp differences from 30mm to 45mm are very low.
> 
> That's my current build:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Hi,
Nice build








If you can run a 240 RAD with 2x 140mm fans, please let me know how as I have that in the front of my Enthoo Pro and I will be adding a 240 RAD to the loop when I add (a new) GPU to the loop.


----------



## WHIMington

I want to redo the loop of my Luxe and getting rid of the 140mm rad at the back as well as changing the top rad, does anyone have any idea how the 140mm fans that come with the case performs on the HWlab Black Ice Nemesis GTX 420mm rads? Currently I am the using an alphacool 360 on top with 3 GT 2150 PWM fans, if the 140 fans can handle the rads I will use those, but if not, I will simply use a 120 to 140 mm shroud to attach the GTs( in fact I op for the latter unless the shroud is too thick to fit on top, that said I wish to see @Unicr0nhunter fan on rad airflow test results ASAP







)


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bernieyee*
> 
> My Evolv ITX window got scratched in the build process. What is the best way to buff them out?


plastx best stuff for everything plastic


----------



## Gil80

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jonas75*
> 
> Hi,
> Nice build
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you can run a 240 RAD with 2x 140mm fans, please let me know how as I have that in the front of my Enthoo Pro and I will be adding a 240 RAD to the loop when I add (a new) GPU to the loop.


Will do. If I get it done I'll drop you a line.
Please PM me so I'll have your message in my inbox.


----------



## By-Tor

Working on my loop before my case gets here on Tuesday and I'm using a MCP355 pump mounted under a Aquacomputer Aqualis DDC 150 ml res. in the order below.
http://www.performance-pcs.com/aquacomputer-aquacomputer-aqualis-ddc-150-ml-g1-4.html

The first 360mm would be mounted in the bottom of the case and the 240mm rad. on the side mount bracket with the other 360mm at the top of the case. All but the 240mm with be push/pull and all radiators will be pulling air from inside of the case. The 2-140mm stocks in the front and 2-140mm stocks in the back will be pulling outside air into the case to feed the rads.

Pump/Res.
Black Ice Nemesis L-Series 360mm Xtreme Radiator, 54mm thick (bottom)
Black Ice Extreme 240mm, 40mm thick (side)
Powercolor R9 290X LCS with factory installed EK full cover water block (may add a second card later)
Black Ice Extreme 360mm, 40mm thick (top)
Swiftech Apogee XL CPU block
Back to the res.

I have a MCP350 pump with an XSPC top I was thinking about installing inline after the 240mm rad. to help with the flow after those first 2 radiators.

Would there be any advantage to this setup?

Would the weaker 350 pump cause problems for the 355 pump in the long run?

Thanks


----------



## Onyxian

Hooray, my own black and white. It's not perfect, BUT I MADE IT AND IT'S MINE.


----------



## wjturner78

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Onyxian*
> 
> 
> 
> Hooray, my own black and white. It's not perfect, BUT I MADE IT AND IT'S MINE.


wet sand that in between a couple more light coats and top it off with a matte clear and it would be perfect..... it doesn't look terrible now but could be great ; D


----------



## Onyxian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wjturner78*
> 
> wet sand that in between a couple more light coats and top it off with a matte clear and it would be perfect..... it doesn't look terrible now but could be great ; D


That work for Plastidip? Never really hear of sanding it, though I guess I could try.


----------



## wjturner78

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Onyxian*
> 
> That work for Plastidip? Never really hear of sanding it, though I guess I could try.


no don't sand plastidip, I'm sorry I didn't know that's what you used


----------



## Onyxian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wjturner78*
> 
> no don't sand plastidip, I'm sorry I didn't know that's what you used


I don't know what happened or why, the white started to clump up as I sprayed it in certain places.


----------



## owcraftsman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Onyxian*
> 
> 
> 
> Hooray, my own black and white. It's not perfect, BUT I MADE IT AND IT'S MINE.


Looks good man still debating the color for my primo rebuild but I have to finish my B&W Luxe


----------



## Awesomeguy10578

Hey guys, I'm looking at getting the Evolv ITX, but I'm seriously worried about the top fan slots' airflow. The top fascia looks really restrictive, if I was going to put an H105 there would performance suffer much? Or is it more freeflowing than it looks?


----------



## rfarmer

I have a h105 in my Evol itx and it works just fine. I have a i5 4460 and idle temps are 28C, load at 62C. Airflow does not seem to be hindered.


----------



## bernieyee

The thing to be worried about is GPU temperatures..


----------



## rfarmer

Not really, I have a GTX 970 and it idles at 44C on air. I had this build in a Rosewill Neutron previously and the gpu sat vertically with plenty of airflow and idled 3C higher.


----------



## Awesomeguy10578

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rfarmer*
> 
> I have a h105 in my Evol itx and it works just fine. I have a i5 4460 and idle temps are 28C, load at 62C. Airflow does not seem to be hindered.


Well my CPU is a 4.6GHz 4690K. I'm aiming to get better temps than on my Elite 130 with a H80i, right now it goes to 86C at full load. You sure it's not restricting?


----------



## bernieyee

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rfarmer*
> 
> Not really, I have a GTX 970 and it idles at 44C on air. I had this build in a Rosewill Neutron previously and the gpu sat vertically with plenty of airflow and idled 3C higher.


My 280X idles at 42, seems a bit high. Benches around 75 in Unigine Valley even after a repaste.


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bernieyee*
> 
> My 280X idles at 42, seems a bit high. Benches around 75 in Unigine Valley even after a repaste.


If that's on air then, I would have to disagree... getting the 280x or any other Tahiti based chip to go much lower on air than that requires you to either lower the ambient temperature quite a bit or have an excess of fans for a very high airflow. To say that 75*c is bad on it would be way off, considering the temperatures with reference cooling goes closer to 90*c.


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Awesomeguy10578*
> 
> Well my CPU is a 4.6GHz 4690K. I'm aiming to get better temps than on my Elite 130 with a H80i, right now it goes to 86C at full load. You sure it's not restricting?


I originally had this build in a Rosewill Neutron case with the radiator in the front as an intake, resistance was very low. Idle temps for the cpu were 25C. I think the higher temps now has more to do with not have cold air intake but the hot air from the case rather than a restriction problem. There is good airflow coming out the vents on the top.


----------



## Awesomeguy10578

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rfarmer*
> 
> I originally had this build in a Rosewill Neutron case with the radiator in the front as an intake, resistance was very low. Idle temps for the cpu were 25C. I think the higher temps now has more to do with not have cold air intake but the hot air from the case rather than a restriction problem. There is good airflow coming out the vents on the top.


Idle temps don't show much though, what was your load temps? I want to do a setup kinda like what hardwarecanucks did except I will use a Kraken G10 and a Deepcool Maelstrom 120K for my 760 Hawk.


----------



## colinmcr

My Project Midas is having a bit of an upgrade with the Asus Z10 dual socket board, pic is from testing on air. Then the WC


----------



## rfarmer

Actually load is much better than I was expecting, been hot here and the AC is on, ambient temps about 68F.

Hard to see in that pic, I ran prime95 for 20 mins and the highest temp on any core was 48C, average was about 42C.


----------



## Gil80

Asking again for the water cooling exprets here:

If the front case is already fitted with 2x 140mm fans, how would a 240mm rad fit with those fans??
OR I got this wrong and I have to place 2x 120mm fans on the 240 rad REGARDLESS of the 2x 140mm fans?
The confusion is: How can a 240mm radiator fit with 2x 140mm fans.

If the 140mm fans are not tightly secured on the radiator (given the size differences) does that mean I will have to install 2x 120mm fans in pull config on the rad?
That is:
2x 140mm fans -> 240mm Radiator -> 2x 120mm fans


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gil80*
> 
> Asking again for the water cooling exprets here:
> 
> If the front case is already fitted with 2x 140mm fans, how would a 240mm rad fit with those fans??
> OR I got this wrong and I have to place 2x 120mm fans on the 240 rad REGARDLESS of the 2x 140mm fans?
> The confusion is: How can a 240mm radiator fit with 2x 140mm fans.
> 
> If the 140mm fans are not tightly secured on the radiator (given the size differences) does that mean I will have to install 2x 120mm fans in pull config on the rad?
> That is:
> 2x 140mm fans -> 240mm Radiator -> 2x 120mm fans


You need to either use a 280mm radiator or check to see if your case has mounts holes for dual 120mm fans, then use 2 120mm fans. The mounting holes for the 2 140mm fans are too widely spaced for a 240mm radiator.


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gil80*
> 
> Asking again for the water cooling exprets here:
> 
> If the front case is already fitted with 2x 140mm fans, how would a 240mm rad fit with those fans??
> OR I got this wrong and I have to place 2x 120mm fans on the 240 rad REGARDLESS of the 2x 140mm fans?
> The confusion is: How can a 240mm radiator fit with 2x 140mm fans.
> 
> If the 140mm fans are not tightly secured on the radiator (given the size differences) does that mean I will have to install 2x 120mm fans in pull config on the rad?
> That is:
> 2x 140mm fans -> 240mm Radiator -> 2x 120mm fans


As it is I could take a look for you using my case tomorrow, but if you are concerned with the gap between the rad and fans then a simple 140-120mm shroud would rectify that.


----------



## Gil80

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rfarmer*
> 
> You need to either use a 280mm radiator or check to see if your case has mounts holes for dual 120mm fans, then use 2 120mm fans. The mounting holes for the 2 140mm fans are too widely spaced for a 240mm radiator.


But according to the specs of the Enthoo Primo, it can only host 240mm rad in front. I'm just not sure if I can utilise the 140mm that are already installed, thus saving money from purchasing 2x 120mm fans instead.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> As it is I could take a look for you using my case tomorrow, but if you are concerned with the gap between the rad and fans then a simple 140-120mm shroud would rectify that.


I don't have the radiator yet so I can't really do a test myself to see if and how it can be mounted while still keeping the 140mm fans.


----------



## By-Tor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gil80*
> 
> But according to the specs of the Enthoo Primo, it can only host 240mm rad in front. I'm just not sure if I can utilise the 140mm that are already installed, thus saving money from purchasing 2x 120mm fans instead.


Either a 120mm or 240mm rad. with 120mm fans or the 2 stock 140mm fans without a rad. in the front..


----------



## Gil80

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *By-Tor*
> 
> Either a 120mm or 240mm rad. with 120mm fans or the 2 stock 140mm fans without a rad. in the front..


ok, so how can you mount a 240mm rad on that bracket using the stock 140mm fans?
the screws don't go through the rad to the bracket. so how would you do it?


----------



## By-Tor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gil80*
> 
> ok, so how can you mount a 240mm rad on that bracket using the stock 140mm fans?
> the screws don't go through the rad to the bracket. so how would you do it?


You can't.

I would use 120mm fans on a 240mm rad.


----------



## Gil80

Shame. What a waste of space and fans. Kinda useless to place 140mm fans and only allow for 240mm rad. Makes things more complex. Not smart engineering.


----------



## By-Tor

Can't you use those 2 140mm fans else where in the case?


----------



## Gil80

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *By-Tor*
> 
> Can't you use those 2 140mm fans else where in the case?


Nope, all places are filled with fans already.


----------



## By-Tor

You have a couple of extra's I guess...


----------



## sav4

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gil80*
> 
> Asking again for the water cooling exprets here:
> 
> If the front case is already fitted with 2x 140mm fans, how would a 240mm rad fit with those fans??
> OR I got this wrong and I have to place 2x 120mm fans on the 240 rad REGARDLESS of the 2x 140mm fans?
> The confusion is: How can a 240mm radiator fit with 2x 140mm fans.
> 
> If the 140mm fans are not tightly secured on the radiator (given the size differences) does that mean I will have to install 2x 120mm fans in pull config on the rad?
> That is:
> 2x 140mm fans -> 240mm Radiator -> 2x 120mm fans


Have u measured your existing 280 rad to see if it would fit in the space ?
Other option i see is it supports a 480 in the bottom sell you 280 and put a bigger one down there ?


----------



## Gil80

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sav4*
> 
> Have u measured your existing 280 rad to see if it would fit in the space ?
> Other option i see is it supports a 480 in the bottom sell you 280 and put a bigger one down there ?


My 280 is 60mm and it's too big to fit in, thanks for the advice though.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *By-Tor*
> 
> You have a couple of extra's I guess...


I'm looking for an image of the inner part of the front case, to see the bracket. I have an idea how this might work out after all.
Taking apart the 140mm fans.
Mounting the rad and using small flat head screws to hold the rad on the bracket (that's why I need to see an image). The flat head screws will ensure they are not in the way of mounting the fans.
Mount the 140mm fans back on.
That is it...


----------



## Toan

You could also put a 240 on that side bracket with p/p setup and completely remove both HDD cages and move the HDD to the optical bay.


----------



## By-Tor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gil80*
> 
> My 280 is 60mm and it's too big to fit in, thanks for the advice though.
> I'm looking for an image of the inner part of the front case, to see the bracket. I have an idea how this might work out after all.
> Taking apart the 140mm fans.
> Mounting the rad and using small flat head screws to hold the rad on the bracket (that's why I need to see an image). The flat head screws will ensure they are not in the way of mounting the fans.
> Mount the 140mm fans back on.
> That is it...


I would think with the fans larger than the rad. it would bypass much of the rad. for the least resistant path around it.

Just a thought..


----------



## sav4

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gil80*
> 
> My 280 is 60mm and it's too big to fit in, thanks for the advice though.
> I'm looking for an image of the inner part of the front case, to see the bracket. I have an idea how this might work out after all.
> Taking apart the 140mm fans.
> Mounting the rad and using small flat head screws to hold the rad on the bracket (that's why I need to see an image). The flat head screws will ensure they are not in the way of mounting the fans.
> Mount the 140mm fans back on.
> That is it...


If your willing to mod the 5.25 cage u can fit a 280 in front.
http://themodzoo.com/2013/09/reviews/cases/full-tower/phanteks-enthoo-primo-full-tower/7/


----------



## Gil80

Too much hassle for the likes of me








I wish it was out of the box solution.

I don't what exactly is required to do and how in the drive bay.

Either way, if I can mount a 240mm rad there I know I'll compromise on small performanceif I do use the 140mm fans.
Better than not having it at all.


----------



## MrPatate

Awesome lighting project in a Primo.



Official thread over at [H]: http://hardforum.com/showthread.php?t=1861686&highlight=snowblind

And how he made the lighting works:


----------



## Sheddyjr

Anyone else have issues with the Luxe's LEDs and the LED strips? It seems the IO panel they are plugged into is causing a bit of resistance as it is dimming the LEDs and brightening them constantly and they are not staying at a constant brightness on any colour? I have made sure everything is connected into my PSU properly and double checked all connections but it will keep doing it. Usually when I press the button to change the colour it sorts out for few minutes/hours then it changes again. Sent an email to phanteks last week but had no reply. Any ideas?

Can't be power draw can it? 850w psu, gtx980, i7 4970k and asus rog mobo.


----------



## bernieyee

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Awesomeguy10578*
> 
> Idle temps don't show much though, what was your load temps? I want to do a setup kinda like what hardwarecanucks did except I will use a Kraken G10 and a Deepcool Maelstrom 120K for my 760 Hawk.


What case are you using? I have EVOLV ITX, but I am not sure if the G10 will fit.

BTW, anyone done a custom loop in the Evolv ITX before? Thinking of doing one.


----------



## Awesomeguy10578

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bernieyee*
> 
> What case are you using? I have EVOLV ITX, but I am not sure if the G10 will fit.
> 
> BTW, anyone done a custom loop in the Evolv ITX before? Thinking of doing one.


Im using a Coolermaster Elite130, G10 should fit alright in the Evolv


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Awesomeguy10578*
> 
> Im using a Coolermaster Elite130, G10 should fit alright in the Evolv


Yeah I was looking at the G10 also and thought it looked too wide, but I know the Elite 130 is not much wider than the 2 pci slots. Is the G10 much wider than a regular 2 slot gpu?


----------



## Ryankirsch13

Question!! So I put my HDD on the back of the optical drive bay yo get the cages out of the way and I can hear the vibration. I heard you can take the screws out of the bottom bracket that the bottom HDD cage slides into and you can attach an HDD sled onto it and seat your drive like that, has anyone tried this?? Case is the Enthoo Luxe


----------



## MrPatate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sheddyjr*
> 
> Anyone else have issues with the Luxe's LEDs and the LED strips? It seems the IO panel they are plugged into is causing a bit of resistance as it is dimming the LEDs and brightening them constantly and they are not staying at a constant brightness on any colour? I have made sure everything is connected into my PSU properly and double checked all connections but it will keep doing it. Usually when I press the button to change the colour it sorts out for few minutes/hours then it changes again. Sent an email to phanteks last week but had no reply. Any ideas?
> 
> Can't be power draw can it? 850w psu, gtx980, i7 4970k and asus rog mobo.


I don't have any issue with mine. The power supply has enough power for sure. But could it be defective? The motherboard can clean the power coming in, but this little controller doesn't have anything to do it. Try taking the voltage of the power going to the controller to see if its good. But its most likely the LED controller that has the problem not your PSU.

Phanteks are usually quick at replying on their American email, if you are using the European email I've see people here complain about slow replies often. Maybe try emailing at their US office.


----------



## MrPatate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ryankirsch13*
> 
> Question!! So I put my HDD on the back of the optical drive bay yo get the cages out of the way and I can hear the vibration. I heard you can take the screws out of the bottom bracket that the bottom HDD cage slides into and you can attach an HDD sled onto it and seat your drive like that, has anyone tried this?? Case is the Enthoo Luxe


Maybe some little rubber gasket would eliminate the noise.
I know they make a 3.25" bracket for the back "Drop'n'Lock" HDD slot. But it's currently not listed as compatible with the Luxe (but there's enough depth behind the motherboard to install a 3.25" so I don't know why it's not compatible).
http://www.phanteks.com/PH-HDDKT.html


----------



## Exolaris

New Primo owner here. Wondering a little bit about the PWM fan hub (I'm a little dumb when it comes to fan cooling) - it says to plug it into the CPU fan header on the motherboard, but won't that make my entire case airflow dependent upon CPU temps? My CPU is on a closed loop cooler, but I have SLI 970's on air and am more concerned about the case airflow taking care of the graphics cards. Should I just do as the manual says and use the fans on the CPU header, or can anyone suggest a better solution if I want my airflow to kick on as my graphics cards heat up?


----------



## Sheddyjr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrPatate*
> 
> I don't have any issue with mine. The power supply has enough power for sure. But could it be defective? The motherboard can clean the power coming in, but this little controller doesn't have anything to do it. Try taking the voltage of the power going to the controller to see if its good. But its most likely the LED controller that has the problem not your PSU.
> 
> Phanteks are usually quick at replying on their American email, if you are using the European email I've see people here complain about slow replies often. Maybe try emailing at their US office.


Sent an email to their US team, hopefully they will reply at some point this year! Will test the rest tomorrow. Thanks


----------



## Faster_is_better

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Exolaris*
> 
> New Primo owner here. Wondering a little bit about the PWM fan hub (I'm a little dumb when it comes to fan cooling) - it says to plug it into the CPU fan header on the motherboard, but won't that make my entire case airflow dependent upon CPU temps? My CPU is on a closed loop cooler, but I have SLI 970's on air and am more concerned about the case airflow taking care of the graphics cards. Should I just do as the manual says and use the fans on the CPU header, or can anyone suggest a better solution if I want my airflow to kick on as my graphics cards heat up?


You could possibly split the PWM signal your video card has and then send part of that signal to the fan hub. You would use a splitter like this Mini 4 Pin GPU splitter
Another option, If you connect to the CPU header, you may still be able to control the fan speed with software, such as Speedfan, and tie the fan speed to the GPU temps that way.

Also your BIOS may have some settings for CPU header control, but it would be based on CPU temps again.

Also beware that the Phanteks fan hub isn't exactly real PWM, it takes PWM signal and converts to voltage control for fans as best I can tell and even then it is a bit iffy to get working sometimes. That's why about 70% of this thread is questions related to it....

Simplest solution may be to just set it up as it is, and then adjust the fan speed via your BIOS controls, just set it to regular/high speed. The 140mm fans from Phanteks aren't that loud so you may be fine leaving them running at a constant speed always.


----------



## havoc764

I am wanting to buy a led strip for my enthoo luxe, but i am curious as to how i am going to get it past the back 140mm fan there is very little space to the left of it.

So can you get the LED strip to fit next to the 140mm fan or not?

Also a curious question about this statement:
_Also beware that the Phanteks fan hub isn't exactly real PWM, it takes PWM signal and converts to voltage control for fans as best I can tell and even then it is a bit iffy to get working sometimes. That's why about 70% of this thread is questions related to it...._

Is this true, somewhere i doubt it considering the small size of the print plate and the use of an external power source.
Maybe it's just me being stupid tough.


----------



## owcraftsman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *havoc764*
> 
> I am wanting to buy a led strip for my enthoo luxe, but i am curious as to how i am going to get it past the back 140mm fan there is very little space to the left of it.
> 
> So can you get the LED strip to fit next to the 140mm fan or not?
> 
> Also a curious question about this statement:
> Also beware that the Phanteks fan hub isn't exactly real PWM, it takes PWM signal and converts to voltage control for fans as best I can tell and even then it is a bit iffy to get working sometimes. That's why about 70% of this thread is questions related to it....
> 
> Is this true, somewhere i doubt it considering the small size of the print plate and the use of an external power source.
> Maybe it's just me being stupid tough.


Short answer, No. You cannot get by the 140 on the rear of case without changing planes or cutting and adding connectors there is not enough room I took a pic but it's tasking forever to upload to dropbox. I'll post it later. I actually started my run there from the 140mm fan and tucked the short extension in between the fan and case to conceal it, that does fit.

About the PWM hub I love it, I use it, and bought another to add fans to it. Works fantastic IMHO


----------



## havoc764

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *owcraftsman*
> 
> Short answer, No. You cannot get by the 140 on the rear of case without changing planes or cutting and adding connectors there is not enough room I took a pic but it's tasking forever to upload to dropbox. I'll post it later. I actually started my run there from the 140mm fan and tucked the short extension in between the fan and case to conceal it, that does fit.
> 
> About the PWM hub I love it, I use it, and bought another to add fans to it. Works fantastic IMHO


personally i was thinking of doing it like this, as it would then also light up the phanteks logo nicely. (would start as low as the wires would allow me and end as low as possible.


----------



## owcraftsman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *havoc764*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *owcraftsman*
> 
> Short answer, No. You cannot get by the 140 on the rear of case without changing planes or cutting and adding connectors there is not enough room I took a pic but it's tasking forever to upload to dropbox. I'll post it later. I actually started my run there from the 140mm fan and tucked the short extension in between the fan and case to conceal it, that does fit.
> 
> About the PWM hub I love it, I use it, and bought another to add fans to it. Works fantastic IMHO
> 
> 
> 
> personally i was thinking of doing it like this, as it would then also light up the phanteks logo nicely. (would start as low as the wires would allow me and end as low as possible.
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Your Route
Click to expand...

Below is a depiction of an entire 2m run from begining to end to scale with the image of the case and the route I chose.

As mentioned getting by the 140mm fan is problematic. It would be nice to see a kit available from Phanteks to be able to cut the strip and add jumpers especially for tight turns which is unavoidable with such a long cable in this case. Although there are parts available online that I believe would work with this strip.

As I see it there are some problems to watch out for

#1 the glue is not strong enough to hang strip from ceiling exacerbated by tight turns that don't allow the strip to lie flat

#2 The strip must be tucked tight and the bottom side panel to allow the PSU cover to be removed and replaced otherwise stripo would be in the way so be careful in that area.

#3 As discussed getting by a 140mm rear panel mounted fan is problematic.


----------



## PureBlackFire

this is how I did mine.


----------



## By-Tor

[quote name="owcraftsman" url="/t/1418637/official-case-phanteks-club-enthoo-primo-primo-se-luxe-pro-mini-xl-evolv-evolv-itx-evolv-atx-lovers-owners/9700#post_23943806"


[/quote]

I'm thinking out the path of my loop before my case gets here on Tuesday and would like to see if someone could post a measurement for me.

Needing the open space measurement from the PCI slots to the inside edge of the case on the window side? (see above image)

Thinking of mounting my pump/res. combo to the inside back part of the case in that open area.

Thank you


----------



## wjturner78

@owcraftsman

I'm liking your paint job, perfect balance of black vs white. Good work. Are you going to do a build log? I think you should, with all the over clocking and water cooling experience that you have some of us noobs may learn a thing or two....


----------



## By-Tor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wjturner78*
> 
> low is a depiction of an entire 2m run from begining to end to scale with the image of the case and the route I chose.
> As mentioned getting by the 140mm fan is problematic. It would be nice to see a kit available from Phanteks to be able to cut the strip and add jumpers especially for tight turns which is unavoidable with such a long cable in this case. Although there are parts available online that I believe would work with this strip.
> 
> As I see it there are some problems to watch out for
> #1 the glue is not strong enough to hang strip from ceiling exacerbated by tight turns that don't allow the strip to lie flat
> #2 The strip must be tucked tight and the bottom side panel to allow the PSU cover to be removed and replaced otherwise stripo would be in the way so be careful in that area.
> #3 As discussed getting by a 140mm rear panel mounted fan is problematic.


I plan on mounting my 140mm rear case fans on the outside of my case, just to get it out of the way for anything I want to do inside the case.


----------



## owcraftsman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wjturner78*
> 
> @owcraftsman
> 
> I'm liking your paint job, perfect balance of black vs white. Good work. Are you going to do a build log? I think you should, with all the over clocking and water cooling experience that you have some of us noobs may learn a thing or two....


TY 4 the kind remarks! Basically any logs/pics I'll share here in the club. It's been quit a while since I've done tutorials or guides mainly due to the amount of time required to maintain and none here at OCN. If it's overclocking help you need, or anybody else, pm me or better yet just start a thread in the appropriate domain. There are plenty of gurus around here that are more than happy to help out thoughtful novices.

@By-Tor There is 7.5 CM from thumb screw to case or 8 CM from expansion slot bracket. I can take a pic if you need it but that what it is.

@PureBlackFire What did you do to overcome the weak adhesive, assuming you used the Phanteks led strip?

Has anyone tried cutting and splicing connectors on Phanteks strips?

I was looking at these and wondering if they'd work

http://www.amazon.com/ZITRADES-Connector-Conductor-Jumper-connector/dp/B00977FHG4/ref=pd_bxgy_60_img_z


----------



## By-Tor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *owcraftsman*
> 
> @By-Tor
> There is 7.5 CM from thumb screw to case or 8 CM from expansion slot bracket. I can take a pic if you need it but that what it is.


Thank you so much.... Pump/res. should have no problem mounting in that space....

Will these light strips work with the Primo?

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811984003

On the Phanteks website it says they will only work with the Luxe case, but I thought the Primo has the same color changing option.

http://www.phanteks.com/PH-LEDKT.html


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *By-Tor*
> 
> Thank you so much.... Pump/res. should have no problem mounting in that space....
> 
> Will these light strips work with the Primo?
> 
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811984003
> 
> On the Phanteks website it says they will only work with the Luxe case, but I thought the Primo has the same color changing option.
> 
> http://www.phanteks.com/PH-LEDKT.html


The LED strips are specific to theLuxe. The Primo has power for LED, but no controller.

Edit - I should have been more specific, the Primo has standard 2 pin LED connectors, as well as a 4 pin molex switched off the same button. The Luxe LED strip is not compatible in any way.


----------



## By-Tor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> The LED strips are specific to theLuxe. The Primo has power for LED, but no controller.


Roger.. Thank you...

I ordered a Black/Red Primo. Will it come with Red LED fans in the front and a Red strip on the right side of the case on the outside?


----------



## Dimensive

Anyone with the EVOLV ITX notice a lot of vibration with 2 top fans? I have 2 x Phanteks PH-F140SP fans hooked up and there is a noticeable vibration coming from my PC and it can be distracting. If I unhook one of the fans, it goes away. I may try some other fans to see if it's just these, but wanted to check if anyone else had this minor issue.


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dimensive*
> 
> Anyone with the EVOLV ITX notice a lot of vibration with 2 top fans? I have 2 x Phanteks PH-F140SP fans hooked up and there is a noticeable vibration coming from my PC and it can be distracting. If I unhook one of the fans, it goes away. I may try some other fans to see if it's just these, but wanted to check if anyone else had this minor issue.


I have a radiator with 2 Prolimatech fans, no vibrations.


----------



## owcraftsman

I don't have one but maybe someone who does can chime in. I believe the led strip is red and the two front 140 Led fans are red as well as evidenced in the photo below. Source



This UK site specifically mentions in the technical details "Red Led"

To the best of my knowledge both are stock Phanteks Red/Black SE edition Enthoo Primo Cases


----------



## By-Tor

I thought they were, but nothing solid until now.

Thanks


----------



## Dimensive

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rfarmer*
> 
> I have a radiator with 2 Prolimatech fans, no vibrations.


Thanks, I will go to Fry's tomorrow and try another brand.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dimensive*
> 
> Anyone with the EVOLV ITX notice a lot of vibration with 2 top fans? I have 2 x Phanteks PH-F140SP fans hooked up and there is a noticeable vibration coming from my PC and it can be distracting. If I unhook one of the fans, it goes away. I may try some other fans to see if it's just these, but wanted to check if anyone else had this minor issue.


I know exactly what you are referring to. This is not necessarily a condition of the Phanteks fans specifically. The fans' harmonics are slightly out of sync causing a resonant vibration. It's a rare occurrance, and really annoying. Neither fan is actually "bad", and each will likely interact without issue with 99% of other F140SPs. But....when you put these two particular fans together you get a resonant vibration.

You can swap both, try swapping one, etc. Kind of a shame since the F140SP are very good fans.


----------



## Dimensive

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> I know exactly what you are referring to. This is not necessarily a condition of the Phanteks fans specifically. The fans' harmonics are slightly out of sync causing a resonant vibration. It's a rare occurrance, and really annoying. Neither fan is actually "bad", and each will likely interact without issue with 99% of other F140SPs. But....when you put these two particular fans together you get a resonant vibration.
> 
> You can swap both, try swapping one, etc. Kind of a shame since the F140SP are very good fans.


I ended up putting in a Fractal Design SS R2 140mm fan in and everything went dead silent. It is a shame because those Phanteks fans are wonderful.


----------



## Onyxian

What LED strips are you guys using? I'm liking that idea of running the strip around. Guessing I'm going to need mine to be a bit longer for a Primo. Have no idea what kind of strips I would need with what connector.


----------



## cakedude501

I have a question about the Enthoo Pro. I understand that it supports a 420mm rad on the top, but I was wondering how thick the rad + fans could be without running into clearance issues. If there is at least 60 mm of clearance I will probably go for this case, since I have no qualms with slimmer radiators, and I like a little headroom.


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cakedude501*
> 
> I have a question about the Enthoo Pro. I understand that it supports a 420mm rad on the top, but I was wondering how thick the rad + fans could be without running into clearance issues. If there is at least 60 mm of clearance I will probably go for this case, since I have no qualms with slimmer radiators, and I like a little headroom.


there is 65mm of space above the motherboard in this case. for a 420 rd you want 38mm the thickest.


----------



## cakedude501

That is amazing, I will definitely be using this case then, Also, Are there any preset locations for a tube res and the pump? Or do I put the holes in myself?


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cakedude501*
> 
> That is amazing, I will definitely be using this case then, Also, Are there any preset locations for a tube res and the pump? Or do I put the holes in myself?


there are two locations for a tube res. there is no pump mount included with the Pro, but it's fairly simple to mount them. or you could buy their pump bracket if your pump is compatible.


----------



## MrPatate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *havoc764*
> 
> I am wanting to buy a led strip for my enthoo luxe, but i am curious as to how i am going to get it past the back 140mm fan there is very little space to the left of it.
> 
> So can you get the LED strip to fit next to the 140mm fan or not?


What I'll do it cut at each corner and solder wires for flexible joints. I'll glue it to the side instead of top/front/bottom/back.

But an easier way would be to use little spacers, so the fan would be mounted above the led strip on one side and on the other with the spacers.


----------



## cakedude501

I am having trouble finding where it is that the reservoir can be mounted, from what I can tell, it seems like it works on the back, closer to the door than the GPU, and in front of the GPU. Also, where is it that the pump would go if I were to use the mounting bracket?


----------



## sav4

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cakedude501*
> 
> I am having trouble finding where it is that the reservoir can be mounted, from what I can tell, it seems like it works on the back, closer to the door than the GPU, and in front of the GPU. Also, where is it that the pump would go if I were to use the mounting bracket?


1st spot is near the rectangular grill on the back other is on the h/d frame.both are closer to the windowed side panel.
Google Enthoo pro water cooling and have a look at the images.


----------



## emsj86

Use the back of the hdd cages to mount the reservior for the pro. That or buy the po mount made by phanteks and mount a rad on the bottom and mount it to that. (That's what I did if that helps).


----------



## cakedude501

Just so that I know what to expect, do you have to mod it to put it in that position? Also - Do you know how much space there is for the GPU if you do that? I have a 302mm GPU, which looks like it may fit, but I am not very confident based off of the available length. I am going to look through the images on this thread to get a bit more of an idea about where it has been managed.


----------



## redshoulder

Just bought the evolv m-atx and noticed that if you want to use 2x120mm fans on the front, you will not be able to use the hdd cage at the bottom, as the hdd cage blocks the mounting hole, however by cutting a small potion of the hdd cage it seems possible.


----------



## VulgarDisplay88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *redshoulder*
> 
> Just bought the evolv m-atx and noticed that if you want to use 2x120mm fans on the front, you will not be able to use the hdd cage at the bottom, as the hdd cage blocks the mounting hole, however by cutting a small potion of the hdd cage it seems possible.


That's a pain. I've got 2x 140mm fans and there are no issues with the hdd cage.


----------



## wjturner78

"roughing in" my rear panels. They still need to be filled, smoothed, sanded, painted, and cleared, but this is the overall look im going for.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## Reaper28

Has anybody found a way to "mod" a fan filter to the top of the Luxe or have any ideas?. I'm trying to have a filter right against the top of the case to stop resistance noise from the fans..


----------



## Faster_is_better

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *havoc764*
> 
> Also a curious question about this statement:
> _Also beware that the Phanteks fan hub isn't exactly real PWM, it takes PWM signal and converts to voltage control for fans as best I can tell and even then it is a bit iffy to get working sometimes. That's why about 70% of this thread is questions related to it...._
> 
> Is this true, somewhere i doubt it considering the small size of the print plate and the use of an external power source.
> Maybe it's just me being stupid tough.


Yes it's true, here is a better description of it.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> The Phanteks PWM hub uses the PWM signal from your mobo to voltage control up to 30W of 3-pin fans (with the SATA or Molex connected). It is not a "PWM hub", as it does not work with 4-pin PWM fans. As it was explained to me, the PWM signal in from the mobo used to control a P channel mosfet that modulates the +12V supply to the 3-pin fan ports proportionally to the width of the PWM signal pulse.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wjturner78*
> 
> "roughing in" my rear panels. They still need to be filled, smoothed, sanded, painted, and cleared, but this is the overall look im going for.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Looks really good.


----------



## wjturner78

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Faster_is_better*
> 
> Looks really good.


thanks, I was starting to wonder if i should abandon the idea entirely. i like the ssd windows but am uncertain of the pump window, i need a way to hide the wiring but didnt want to hide the pump.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cakedude501*
> 
> I have a question about the Enthoo Pro. I understand that it supports a 420mm rad on the top, but I was wondering how thick the rad + fans could be without running into clearance issues. If there is at least 60 mm of clearance I will probably go for this case, since I have no qualms with slimmer radiators, and I like a little headroom.


Yeah I got an XSPC EX420 up there and it fits with an inch or two left in front and back but that means the ports are harder to get to&#8230;I oriented mine in the rear (front was not ideal because you can't remove the bottom of the 5.25" drive bay section; one of the few pieces you can't) and the rear of the two ports could only clear the top metal housing of my motherboard rear ports with a triple rotary adapter thing that I have in a slight "S shape". I love when random parts i already had save my ass. It's one of the joys of the hobby.

Edit: sorry put the rotary fitting on a 90 adapter. Only way to clear everything including the fan as well as have enough room for the fitting end (3/4" OD).


----------



## StrongForce

Just a little question, I have a CM 690 II and I was considering upgrading to a enthoo pro, or eventually a primo.. but, I don't know really, is it worth it? will I see a difference with my temps ? I run a FX [email protected] 4.6 on ND14, I have currently no cover on the backside of the case because I have a fan on the socket.. which is a bit shameful even though I'm not seeing it because it's facing towards the wall..(I covered the holes with cardbox also.. looks very bad trust me lol )

I wonder if my temps with a Enthoo pro would be better and also without back socket fan of course.. and if there is room for it, since I recently found a job I decided I could go a bit crazy on the PC side, I have multiple upgrades in mind, possibly water cooling.. and I have been considering a enthoo primo even ..it might be quite pricy it's got to hold me quite a long time... and at least I will never need to upgrade case again !

One question about the primo what is the right side "panel" about ? it stands out from the case like it was removeable..

I have been also considering building my own case, I think that would be pretty damn fancy, but of course will be time consuming ! but I definately got the skills and the budget for it..


----------



## Faster_is_better

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wjturner78*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Faster_is_better*
> 
> Looks really good.
> 
> 
> 
> thanks, I was starting to wonder if i should abandon the idea entirely. i like the ssd windows but am uncertain of the pump window, i need a way to hide the wiring but didnt want to hide the pump.
Click to expand...

Will the side panel have some cutouts with small windows too then?


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *StrongForce*
> 
> Just a little question, I have a CM 690 II and I was considering upgrading to a enthoo pro, or eventually a primo.. but, I don't know really, is it worth it? will I see a difference with my temps ? I run a FX [email protected] 4.6 on ND14, I have currently no cover on the backside of the case because I have a fan on the socket.. which is a bit shameful even though I'm not seeing it because it's facing towards the wall..(I covered the holes with cardbox also.. looks very bad trust me lol )
> 
> I wonder if my temps with a Enthoo pro would be better and also without back socket fan of course.. and if there is room for it, since I recently found a job I decided I could go a bit crazy on the PC side, I have multiple upgrades in mind, possibly water cooling.. and I have been considering a enthoo primo even ..it might be quite pricy it's got to hold me quite a long time... and at least I will never need to upgrade case again !
> 
> One question about the primo what is the right side "panel" about ? it stands out from the case like it was removeable..
> 
> I have been also considering building my own case, I think that would be pretty damn fancy, but of course will be time consuming ! but I definately got the skills and the budget for it..


if you have the budget and space for it then the entoo primo would likely be your best bet, especially if you want water cooling. That said none of the cases will likely help with the temps on air, besides what are the temps really? If you want a new case it should be decided by other factors as most cases are not hindered by air flow (which could impact cooling), aside from cases in the smaller form factors (matx and mitx).

Really though a case is a good investment in the sense that it will last you for as long as you want. Thus the factors that should decide for you would be the following:

Space, both in the sense of internal space in the case but also if you actually have space constraints in where the computer will be placed.
Hardware support, do you want it to support mitx, matx, atx or e-atx? 1 hdd or 10hdd? really space is a big concern.
Noise isolation, in the sense that a good and sturdy case will have less rateling. You could also opt for a case with thicher case walls that lowers the noise that comes from the case.
Looks and build quality, really if you buy a case and you are willing to spend a bit on it then it is likely that you will keep it for a while. So having a good looking case is always important in that regard unless ofcourse you hide it away somewhere.
Mostly though a case will not aid all that much in your temps, and in such a case a lot less then what a new cooler would. The few degrees that you gain from choosing one case over another is negligeble at best as it's usually decided by air flow and the fans in use. So you gain more by optimizing that then changing a case.

Still if you want a new case then both the pro and the Primo are good choises, but you won't gain all that much in temp unless you upgrade your cooling.

As for the panel you mentioned, I don't know what you mean so some clearification would lead to a better answer. Is it the drive bay cover? or maybe the PSU cover?


----------



## wjturner78

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Faster_is_better*
> 
> Will the side panel have some cutouts with small windows too then?


I haven't decided yet.... what do you think?

here's some "rough" shots of the mobo side panels being test fit


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## wjturner78

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> if you have the budget and space for it then the entoo primo would likely be your best bet, especially if you want water cooling. That said none of the cases will likely help with the temps on air, besides what are the temps really? If you want a new case it should be decided by other factors as most cases are not hindered by air flow (which could impact cooling), aside from cases in the smaller form factors (matx and mitx).
> 
> Really though a case is a good investment in the sense that it will last you for as long as you want. Thus the factors that should decide for you would be the following:
> 
> Space, both in the sense of internal space in the case but also if you actually have space constraints in where the computer will be placed.
> Hardware support, do you want it to support mitx, matx, atx or e-atx? 1 hdd or 10hdd? really space is a big concern.
> Noise isolation, in the sense that a good and sturdy case will have less rateling. You could also opt for a case with thicher case walls that lowers the noise that comes from the case.
> Looks and build quality, really if you buy a case and you are willing to spend a bit on it then it is likely that you will keep it for a while. So having a good looking case is always important in that regard unless ofcourse you hide it away somewhere.
> Mostly though a case will not aid all that much in your temps, and in such a case a lot less then what a new cooler would. The few degrees that you gain from choosing one case over another is negligeble at best as it's usually decided by air flow and the fans in use. So you gain more by optimizing that then changing a case.
> 
> Still if you want a new case then both the pro and the Primo are good choises, but you won't gain all that much in temp unless you upgrade your cooling.
> 
> As for the panel you mentioned, I don't know what you mean so some clearification would lead to a better answer. Is it the drive bay cover? or maybe the PSU cover?


awesome, well articulated answer!

I'll add that building your own case is like building your own bike.... its possible given enough time and money.


----------



## By-Tor

My Enthoo Primo came in today and while reading through the manual I noticed the cover of the manual says Enthoo Luxe!!!

Anyone else with a Primo get the wrong manual?


----------



## StrongForce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> if you have the budget and space for it then the entoo primo would likely be your best bet, especially if you want water cooling. That said none of the cases will likely help with the temps on air, besides what are the temps really? If you want a new case it should be decided by other factors as most cases are not hindered by air flow (which could impact cooling), aside from cases in the smaller form factors (matx and mitx).
> 
> Really though a case is a good investment in the sense that it will last you for as long as you want. Thus the factors that should decide for you would be the following:
> 
> Space, both in the sense of internal space in the case but also if you actually have space constraints in where the computer will be placed.
> Hardware support, do you want it to support mitx, matx, atx or e-atx? 1 hdd or 10hdd? really space is a big concern.
> Noise isolation, in the sense that a good and sturdy case will have less rateling. You could also opt for a case with thicher case walls that lowers the noise that comes from the case.
> Looks and build quality, really if you buy a case and you are willing to spend a bit on it then it is likely that you will keep it for a while. So having a good looking case is always important in that regard unless ofcourse you hide it away somewhere.
> Mostly though a case will not aid all that much in your temps, and in such a case a lot less then what a new cooler would. The few degrees that you gain from choosing one case over another is negligeble at best as it's usually decided by air flow and the fans in use. So you gain more by optimizing that then changing a case.
> 
> Still if you want a new case then both the pro and the Primo are good choises, but you won't gain all that much in temp unless you upgrade your cooling.
> 
> As for the panel you mentioned, I don't know what you mean so some clearification would lead to a better answer. Is it the drive bay cover? or maybe the PSU cover?


+

Yea you're right it's not really only for the temps but I thought that could help, and I'm not gonna go watercooling in this case it's too small, maybe AIO stuff but from what I heard the best ones like the corsair 105i are pretty noisy so would need to replace fans, and I wonder if the temperature gain will be that significant.. it's tempting to go custom water cooling but I'd need a better case for that..

I was talking about the part with the USB ports in the primo, well it looks like it's just part of the design.

It looks like the primo is really a good choice for watercooling for sure.. I always thought it was kinda risky to go water though lol, especially if I buy new hardware ! but I guess leaks seems pretty rare, if the installation is made properly..


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *StrongForce*
> 
> +
> 
> Yea you're right it's not really only for the temps but I thought that could help, and I'm not gonna go watercooling in this case it's too small, maybe AIO stuff but from what I heard the best ones like the corsair 105i are pretty noisy so would need to replace fans, and I wonder if the temperature gain will be that significant.. it's tempting to go custom water cooling but I'd need a better case for that..
> 
> I was talking about the part with the USB ports in the primo, well it looks like it's just part of the design.
> 
> It looks like the primo is really a good choice for watercooling for sure.. I always thought it was kinda risky to go water though lol, especially if I buy new hardware ! but I guess leaks seems pretty rare, if the installation is made properly..


First, the 690 has notoriously bad airflow. moving to a Pro or Luxe would be a vast improvement and would likely yield much better component temps.

And, yes, CLCs have far worse performance/noise than top tier air....while no longer even being able to offer better overall performance. They just offer more noise.

However, the H105 is *not* top AiO by any stretch of the imagination. With the introduction of Swiftech's H220-X and H240-X, no CLC can be considered a top AiO (the Swiftech's are AiO, but _not_ CLC). The Swiftech pieces offer significantly better performance with significantly lower noise, while having the capability of expansion and being the base of a nice small loop.


----------



## DreadfulDave

Greetings to all Phanteks owners who visit this thread.
I'm planning to make a system upgrade in june/juli and made some brainstorming on the currently available cases.
After some research either the Phantek Pro or Phantek Luxe will be my case of choice.

...before I can make that decision I do have two questions.

1.
I've recognized that the Front-Intake on the Lux has a alumninum plate which reduces the Air-Flow.
It can be removed but leaves 4 big screw-spots on the panel, which doesn't look good.
I'm wondering if the impact on the airflow compared to the Pro is noticeable.

2.
Temperatures of the Pro seem to be far better (10° Celsius), is this due to the better Airflow?
Source 1: http://www.bit-tech.net/hardware/cases/2014/08/12/phanteks-enthoo-luxe-review/3
Notice that the GPU-Temps are about 8° Celsius lower on the Pro with the HDD cages removed.

Source2 (Kitguru):

*Enthoo PRO*


*Enthoo LUXE*


----------



## Exolaris

Fairly stupid question here, but i assume installing anything more than a 240/280mm radiator in the bottom of the primo means removing the radiator bracket, correct? Or does you just mount to the bracket as normal and let it hang past the edge?


----------



## wjturner78

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Exolaris*
> 
> Fairly stupid question here, but i assume installing anything more than a 240/280mm radiator in the bottom of the primo means removing the radiator bracket, correct? Or does you just mount to the bracket as normal and let it hang past the edge?


yes the bracket should come off, but that doesnt mean it has too. if you leave the bracket on you may want to come up with an idea on how to secure the front of the rad


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DreadfulDave*
> 
> Notice that the GPU-Temps are about 8° Celsius lower on the Pro with the HDD cages removed.


That's interesting and I suppose it makes sense with the front intake unblocked by the cage (and possibly hot drives). Though I have my front fans going through a rad so I also added a bottom 120mm intake up near the front too.


----------



## StrongForce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> First, the 690 has notoriously bad airflow. moving to a Pro or Luxe would be a vast improvement and would likely yield much better component temps.
> 
> And, yes, CLCs have far worse performance/noise than top tier air....while no longer even being able to offer better overall performance. They just offer more noise.
> 
> However, the H105 is *not* top AiO by any stretch of the imagination. With the introduction of Swiftech's H220-X and H240-X, no CLC can be considered a top AiO (the Swiftech's are AiO, but _not_ CLC). The Swiftech pieces offer significantly better performance with significantly lower noise, while having the capability of expansion and being the base of a nice small loop.


Aw I didn't know that the 690 had that bad airflow ahha, altought it does have 2 x140 on top.. and I added fans everywhere I could, but yea, would the PRO be enough for a custom water cooling ? or should I just go for the primo ?

yea the swiftech sounds good, not sure about availability in europe though.. mmh will have to check it out, and would be nice to have a comparison somewhere i'll have a look but I think last time I checked there wasn't much..

CLC ? close loop ?

Think I'll be crazy and get a primo.. yolo. and I saw some nice reviews in the first post i'll have a look at them.


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *StrongForce*
> 
> Aw I didn't know that the 690 had that bad airflow ahha, altought it does have 2 x140 on top.. and I added fans everywhere I could, but yea, would the PRO be enough for a custom water cooling ? or should I just go for the primo ?
> 
> yea the swiftech sounds good, not sure about availability in europe though.. mmh will have to check it out, and would be nice to have a comparison somewhere i'll have a look but I think last time I checked there wasn't much..
> 
> CLC ? close loop ?
> 
> Think I'll be crazy and get a primo.. yolo. and I saw some nice reviews in the first post i'll have a look at them.


The Swiftech is available in europe, but it's expensive. You could look at something like the Cooler Master Eisberg/Alphacool Eisberg or the Fractal Design Kepler, if you want some good AIOs. Personally though I don't see much point in going with an AIO unit that isn't a CLC unless you are really limited when it comes to space. You would likely get best performance by going with either Alphacool or EK kits as they are the most readily available in Europe at the moment, but that would mean a full out open loop. That said... The kits actually drops the total price of the items down a bit since you are actually buying a bundle.

It's not that I have anything against the Swiftech AIO kits, it's just that I really don't see much point in an AIO kit that is not a closed loop. It essentially eliminates the upsides of going for an AIO unit unless you are space restricted. Thats just my







though.


----------



## StrongForce

Thanks for the tips, CLC what does that mean though ? I guess closed loop.. it means you can add more radiators and cool your cards with right ?


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *StrongForce*
> 
> Thanks for the tips, CLC what does that mean though ? I guess closed loop.. it means you can add more radiators and cool your cards with right ?


Well as it is, a CLC is what most AIO units are. it's a closed system which means no new micro organisms or air is introduced in to the system no matter how long it is (unless of course there is a leak). This means no maintenance at all. The Swiftech unit is an AIO unit (all in one), but it is not a CLC unit (closed loop cooler) which means it's not sealed, and would need maintenance. The fluid that Swiftech sends with it is stated to have a lifetime of 3 years before you need to change it, but you can just as well get this fluid in any custom loop as well.

In case you are unfamiliar with the terms I can try to explain them a bit here:

AIO: This simply refers to an "All in one" system which includes a block, a pump and a radiator (and in some cases a reservoir).
CLC: This refers to a "Closed loop Cooler" which is exactly what it sounds like. This is those AIO units that are NOT expandable, as they are completely sealed from the factory. This means no need for maintenance on your part, but it also means you have no room to choose the parts that you want in the loop, and are stuck with whatever the manufacturer put in it. This often includes less powerful pumps and sometimes worse performing blocks. The most important part about this though is usually that most CLC units are shipped with an aluminium radiator, which performs worse than a copper/brass radiator.
Open loop: This would be any custom made loop, that is ready for you to change fluids and expand as you wish. The downside with this one is that you need to maintain it by changing the fluid every now and then (destilled water should be every year or so, while some specialized ones are up to 3 years). Usually you do all the building yourself as well which leaves up the ever so known user fault. Some find this intimidating, but if everything is done correctly you very rarely get any leaks past the testing phase (the same amount as with an AIO unit in fact, depending on the parts in use).
I am unsure where the Swiftech ends up, as I know Fractal Design and Cooler Master/Alphacool delivers expandable units that are completely sealed from the factory. Only thing I know is that Swiftech says that there is no maintenance needed for up to 3 years, at which point they recommend you to switch out the fluids.


----------



## wjturner78

finally got all of my panels made

again, these still need to be filled, smoothed, sanded, primed and painted



Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!























Spoiler: Top cover













Spoiler: under the panels




there is no scratch here on the pump window its a reflection i think









Spoiler: corners




top right corner


top left corner


Spoiler: seam




joints now fitting nicely, still need to fill and sand level.








Spoiler: Photo shop of graphics











Spoiler: misc


----------



## By-Tor

I have been reading this thread and have only made it through page 400 and I remember seeing that someone posted a picture of the front grill with the solid center section removed and commenting on how bad the stand offs looked on the grill side.

I guess Phanteks listened because I removed mine thinking I was going to see the same ugly stand offs left behind, but they have been mounted on the panel side and not the front grill side now. Not sure how long ago this had changed, but it does look better.


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *By-Tor*
> 
> I have been reading this thread and have only made it through page 400 and I remember seeing that someone posted a picture of the front grill with the solid center section removed and commenting on how bad the stand offs looked on the grill side.
> 
> I guess Phanteks listened because I removed mine thinking I was going to see the same ugly stand offs left behind, but they have been mounted on the panel side and not the front grill side now. Not sure how long ago this had changed, but it does look better.


probably talking about the Luxe, not the Primo.


----------



## By-Tor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PureBlackFire*
> 
> probably talking about the Luxe, not the Primo.


Could have been, I can't remember...


----------



## havoc764

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DreadfulDave*
> 
> Greetings to all Phanteks owners who visit this thread.
> I'm planning to make a system upgrade in june/juli and made some brainstorming on the currently available cases.
> After some research either the Phantek Pro or Phantek Luxe will be my case of choice.
> 
> ...before I can make that decision I do have two questions.
> 
> 1.
> I've recognized that the Front-Intake on the Lux has a alumninum plate which reduces the Air-Flow.
> It can be removed but leaves 4 big screw-spots on the panel, which doesn't look good.
> I'm wondering if the impact on the airflow compared to the Pro is noticeable.
> 
> 2.
> Temperatures of the Pro seem to be far better (10° Celsius), is this due to the better Airflow?
> Source 1: http://www.bit-tech.net/hardware/cases/2014/08/12/phanteks-enthoo-luxe-review/3
> Notice that the GPU-Temps are about 8° Celsius lower on the Pro with the HDD cages removed.
> 
> Source2 (Kitguru):
> 
> *Enthoo PRO*
> 
> 
> *Enthoo LUXE*


first take a good look at those picturs again, i doubt the are comparable as they describe different setups and hardware. (from the little info i can get from them.
And a 10 degree difference in temps just from a small space aluminum plate at the front is highly unlikely.


----------



## DreadfulDave

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *havoc764*
> 
> first take a good look at those picturs again, i doubt the are comparable as they describe different setups and hardware. (from the little info i can get from them.
> And a 10 degree difference in temps just from a small space aluminum plate at the front is highly unlikely.


The graph implies that both are cooled by an Corsair H100, this could however be a mistake by the reviewer. Additionally, if you look at *source 1* it is clearly states that the setup across all included cases in the chart is the same. This means under the same conditions the GPU temp on the Pro is about 8° Celsius cooler, which is most likely directly related to the front intake.
The CPU temp is nearly identical.


----------



## 031Dutch

my primo build with easy mod at the front

that even a child can do with little help.






i removed the front plate
and placed a thin mesh with no glue or other stuff
its just stuck with between front plate en behind.

i now it to empty but now safe money to fill it up. i dont gona make a custom watercooling in it.
just loved the primo case


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> Well as it is, a CLC is what most AIO units are. it's a closed system which means no new micro organisms or air is introduced in to the system no matter how long it is (unless of course there is a leak). This means no maintenance at all. The Swiftech unit is an AIO unit (all in one), but it is not a CLC unit (closed loop cooler) which means it's not sealed, and would need maintenance. The fluid that Swiftech sends with it is stated to have a lifetime of 3 years before you need to change it, but you can just as well get this fluid in any custom loop as well.
> 
> In case you are unfamiliar with the terms I can try to explain them a bit here:
> 
> AIO: This simply refers to an "All in one" system which includes a block, a pump and a radiator (and in some cases a reservoir).
> CLC: This refers to a "Closed loop Cooler" which is exactly what it sounds like. This is those AIO units that are NOT expandable, as they are completely sealed from the factory. This means no need for maintenance on your part, but it also means you have no room to choose the parts that you want in the loop, and are stuck with whatever the manufacturer put in it. This often includes less powerful pumps and sometimes worse performing blocks. The most important part about this though is usually that most CLC units are shipped with an aluminium radiator, which performs worse than a copper/brass radiator.
> Open loop: This would be any custom made loop, that is ready for you to change fluids and expand as you wish. The downside with this one is that you need to maintain it by changing the fluid every now and then (destilled water should be every year or so, while some specialized ones are up to 3 years). Usually you do all the building yourself as well which leaves up the ever so known user fault. Some find this intimidating, but if everything is done correctly you very rarely get any leaks past the testing phase (the same amount as with an AIO unit in fact, depending on the parts in use).
> I am unsure where the Swiftech ends up, as I know Fractal Design and Cooler Master/Alphacool delivers expandable units that are completely sealed from the factory. Only thing I know is that Swiftech says that there is no maintenance needed for up to 3 years, at which point they recommend you to switch out the fluids.


The Swiftechs are also sealed from the factory. Their huge advantage over the Fractal/Alphacool units is the pump. The Alphacool pump suffers from the same inadequacies as the CLC pumps - it doesn't have high enough flow to cool even the CPU as effectively as it should, and expansion options are basically non-existent. The Swiftech pump can move ~1gpm with a little over 2m of head pressure, so you can add a second radiator and GPU block with excellent results. Of course, CLCs aren't capable of any of this, but those high fpi aluminum rads are certainly good at generating a ton of noise since they need ridiculous amounts of air to do any cooling.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *StrongForce*
> 
> Thanks for the tips, CLC what does that mean though ? I guess closed loop.. it means you can add more radiators and cool your cards with right ?


Quite the opposite. Closed loops are just that - closed. There is no expanding, modifying, customizing of any kind. What you bought is what you get - typically a collection of the lowest priced parts that Asetek can pass off on you. The current options in CLCs are essentially the polar opposite of open loop cooling (excepting the Cooler Master Neptons, which use a pump that can actually move enough liquid). People turn to open loop cooling for increased performance with lower noise, while current CLCs offer performance similar to air cooling, just with far more noise at a far higher price tag.


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> The Swiftechs are also sealed from the factory. Their huge advantage over the Fractal/Alphacool units is the pump. The Alphacool pump suffers from the same inadequacies as the CLC pumps - it doesn't have high enough flow to cool even the CPU as effectively as it should, and expansion options are basically non-existent. The Swiftech pump can move ~1gpm with a little over 2m of head pressure, so you can add a second radiator and GPU block with excellent results. Of course, CLCs aren't capable of any of this, but those high fpi aluminum rads are certainly good at generating a ton of noise since they need ridiculous amounts of air to do any cooling.
> Quite the opposite. Closed loops are just that - closed. There is no expanding, modifying, customizing of any kind. What you bought is what you get - typically a collection of the lowest priced parts that Asetek can pass off on you. The current options in CLCs are essentially the polar opposite of open loop cooling (excepting the Cooler Master Neptons, which use a pump that can actually move enough liquid). People turn to open loop cooling for increased performance with lower noise, while current CLCs offer performance similar to air cooling, just with far more noise at a far higher price tag.


the exception to the rule about CLCs is when it comes to graphics cards, brackets such as the HG10 and the G10 offer a far better solution then any other GPU cooler on the market (aside from blocks meant for open loops). The simple fact is you can't mount as much weight on a GPU as you can on a CPU, so CLC units are still a viable option to put on a GPU since you don't have to bother with putting the weight on the card itself. I agree with you wholeheartedly on the CPU part though, CLCs suck for that. I really wish I had gotten the Dark rock pro instead of the crappy x40 I'm stuck with now, oh well I guess I can unload it for cheap on to some unknowing sucker







(not on OCN of course). Now the H105 that's on my GPU however has done it's job admirably.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> the exception to the rule about CLCs is when it comes to graphics cards, brackets such as the HG10 and the G10 offer a far better solution then any other GPU cooler on the market (aside from blocks meant for open loops). The simple fact is you can't mount as much weight on a GPU as you can on a CPU, so CLC units are still a viable option to put on a GPU since you don't have to bother with putting the weight on the card itself. I agree with you wholeheartedly on the CPU part though, CLCs suck for that. I really wish I had gotten the Dark rock pro instead of the crappy x40 I'm stuck with now, oh well I guess I can unload it for cheap on to some unknowing sucker
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (not on OCN of course). Now the H105 that's on my GPU however has done it's job admirably.


Ah, but of you have a Swiftech H240-X or H220-X you can simply add a full cover block (that is actually made for the particular card and has things like VRM cooling) to the loop for almost the same cost and get much better performance, aesthetics and noise.









BUT, I know that Swiftech X series are in a short supply and high demand situation in Europe, and that the current pricing is reflecting that. Hopefully they get it straightened out soon.

To keep this on topic.....the H240-X looks like it was made for the Luxe:


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Ah, but of you have a Swiftech H240-X or H220-X you can simply add a full cover block (that is actually made for the particular card and has things like VRM cooling) to the loop for almost the same cost and get much better performance, aesthetics and noise.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> BUT, I know that Swiftech X series are in a short supply and high demand situation in Europe, and that the current pricing is reflecting that. Hopefully they get it straightened out soon.
> 
> To keep this on topic.....the H240-X looks like it was made for the Luxe:


Agreed, although personally I find a single 240/280 a bit short for both a GPU and CPU, but I guess it would work









on another note, I can finally start my build project as I had my last exam today. That means no more CLC for me







and jsut because I can I will be going overkill with two 480 monsta rads on an i5 and a single gpu







Got them for cheap so why not


----------



## StrongForce

http://www.bit-tech.net/hardware/cases/2014/05/06/phanteks-enthoo-pro-review/3

I was looking at enthoo pro reviews, I like this case alot but the Corsair 760T outperforms it by quite a bit, and does seem to have watercooling ability, but for now I think I will stay away from watercooling, at least until I'll have more money...

I got to admit ever since I saw the 760t I liked it too..

6 less degrees on the CPU, right now my cpu is a problem (altought with this cooler I can't go much higher than 4.7 anyway so..), I was maybe gonna upgrade to Skylake though, and it might not be as much as a problem (altought if i go crazy/i7 it might still be hot so..).

The enthoo pro however cools the GPU pretty damn well without the cages though, is that without just the bottom part of the cages ? I guess there are still some remaining.. not that I really use my dvd drive anyway, mostly only to install windows, and nowadays even do that with a USB stick ahha.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> the exception to the rule about CLCs is when it comes to graphics cards, brackets such as the HG10 and the G10 offer a far better solution then any other GPU cooler on the market (aside from blocks meant for open loops). The simple fact is you can't mount as much weight on a GPU as you can on a CPU, so CLC units are still a viable option to put on a GPU since you don't have to bother with putting the weight on the card itself. I agree with you wholeheartedly on the CPU part though, CLCs suck for that. I really wish I had gotten the Dark rock pro instead of the crappy x40 I'm stuck with now, oh well I guess I can unload it for cheap on to some unknowing sucker
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (not on OCN of course). Now the H105 that's on my GPU however has done it's job admirably.


yea the g10+perhaps some corsair AIO looked like a good combo for GPU, it would be tempting for me to get another r9 290x and get them both watercooled that way !

I did look on ebay for second hand r9 290x but there seem to be none..(end of mining goldrush ? lol) also not sure I would like to remove the cooler on my windforce one as it would remove warranty most likely









but doing that would gives me cooler temp on CPU !


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *StrongForce*
> 
> http://www.bit-tech.net/hardware/cases/2014/05/06/phanteks-enthoo-pro-review/3
> 
> I was looking at enthoo pro reviews, I like this case alot but the Corsair 760T outperforms it by quite a bit, and does seem to have watercooling ability, but for now I think I will stay away from watercooling, at least until I'll have more money...
> 
> I got to admit ever since I saw the 760t I liked it too..
> 
> 6 less degrees on the CPU, right now my cpu is a problem (altought with this cooler I can't go much higher than 4.7 anyway so..), I was maybe gonna upgrade to Skylake though, and it might not be as much as a problem (altought if i go crazy/i7 it might still be hot so..).
> 
> The enthoo pro however cools the GPU pretty damn well without the cages though, is that without just the bottom part of the cages ? I guess there are still some remaining.. not that I really use my dvd drive anyway, mostly only to install windows, and nowadays even do that with a USB stick ahha.


I think that anyone here who has worked with both a 760T and an Enthoo will tell you that you are sacrificing quite a bit in build and component quality with the Corsair. I also have very little faith in those test results you pointed out.

Taking the bottom HDD cage opens up the entire area between the front intake and GPU.


----------



## Faster_is_better

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *031Dutch*
> 
> my primo build with easy mod at the front
> 
> that even a child can do with little help.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i removed the front plate
> and placed a thin mesh with no glue or other stuff
> its just stuck with between front plate en behind.
> 
> i now it to empty but now safe money to fill it up. i dont gona make a custom watercooling in it.
> just loved the primo case


Looks really nice. Is that a special edition or did you paint the interior yourself?

Also which LED strip did you use on the right side, the one that goes behind the frosted plastic and creates more of a glow (also can be turned on/off with the button)??


----------



## StrongForce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> the exception to the rule about CLCs is when it comes to graphics cards, brackets such as the HG10 and the G10 offer a far better solution then any other GPU cooler on the market (aside from blocks meant for open loops). The simple fact is you can't mount as much weight on a GPU as you can on a CPU, so CLC units are still a viable option to put on a GPU since you don't have to bother with putting the weight on the card itself. I agree with you wholeheartedly on the CPU part though, CLCs suck for that. I really wish I had gotten the Dark rock pro instead of the crappy x40 I'm stuck with now, oh well I guess I can unload it for cheap on to some unknowing sucker
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (not on OCN of course). Now the H105 that's on my GPU however has done it's job admirably.


yea the g10+perhaps some corsair AIO looked like a good combo for GPU, it would be tempting for me to get another r9 290x and get them both watercooled that way !

I did look on ebay for second hand r9 290x but there seem to be none..(end of mining goldrush ? lol) also not sure I would like to remove the cooler on my windforce one as it would remove warranty most likely









but doing that would gives me cooler temp on CPU !







Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> I think that anyone here who has worked with both a 760T and an Enthoo will tell you that you are sacrificing quite a bit in build and component quality with the Corsair. I also have very little faith in those test results you pointed out.
> 
> Taking the bottom HDD cage opens up the entire area between the front intake and GPU.


Could you be a little more specific ? while it's true for the 760t price I could pretty much get a primo, the primo look so massive lol, and the 760t looks quite sexy, and according to these results, not saying it's true but why would they put wrong results ? the primo doesn't performs as good.

One thing though with the primo you get 6 fans.. I already have quite a few fans.. but that would be nice to have spare ones(for a future watercooling custom loop eheh).


----------



## 031Dutch

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Faster_is_better*
> 
> Looks really nice. Is that a special edition or did you paint the interior yourself?
> 
> Also which LED strip did you use on the right side, the one that goes behind the frosted plastic and creates more of a glow (also can be turned on/off with the button)??


Hello faster is better. Yes it is the phanteks se special edition.
The led strip on the side behind the frosted plastic can be turned off on the top button, but with this you also turn the fan led also off or on.


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *StrongForce*
> 
> yea the g10+perhaps some corsair AIO looked like a good combo for GPU, it would be tempting for me to get another r9 290x and get them both watercooled that way !
> 
> I did look on ebay for second hand r9 290x but there seem to be none..(end of mining goldrush ? lol) also not sure I would like to remove the cooler on my windforce one as it would remove warranty most likely
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> but doing that would gives me cooler temp on CPU !
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Could you be a little more specific ? while it's true for the 760t price I could pretty much get a primo, the primo look so massive lol, and the 760t looks quite sexy, and according to these results, not saying it's true but why would they put wrong results ? the primo doesn't performs as good.
> 
> One thing though with the primo you get 6 fans.. I already have quite a few fans.. but that would be nice to have spare ones(for a future watercooling custom loop eheh).


If the choice is between the 760t and the Primo then the choice should have been made already. Sure the Primo is a bit larger, but it's also the best built case I have had the pleasure of working with, it's build perfectly well, and while you can compatre graphs as much as you want you will not see any real world difference in temperatures between the cases. The simple fact is that if you get enough air in for the components you really don't have to think about much more than that. Besides, the primo can mount fans in the bottom and top to create a "channel" of air for your hot components so I really don't think you should ever have a temperature problem in the Primo.

As for size differences between them they are the following:

The Corsair 760t is 56.8cm deep while the Enthoo Primo is 60cm deep, The Corsair 760t is 56.4cm tall while the Enthoo Primo is 65cm tall and the Corsair 760t is 24.6cm wide while the Enthoo Primo is 25cm wide. This gives you just 8.6cm of a difference in hight or roughly 3 1/2 inches and 3.2cm in difference in depth, which is roughly 1 1/2 inch in difference.

So really the size difference is not that big between them, but the Enthoo Primo supports a lot more when it comes to both cooling and set-ups.

For me the Choice between a 900d and an Enthoo Primo was easy, and I should think it should be as easy between the Enthoo Primo and the 760t as well. The 760t does seem to be a full tower with the support of a miditower to be honest.


----------



## StrongForce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> If the choice is between the 760t and the Primo then the choice should have been made already. Sure the Primo is a bit larger, but it's also the best built case I have had the pleasure of working with, it's build perfectly well, and while you can compatre graphs as much as you want you will not see any real world difference in temperatures between the cases. The simple fact is that if you get enough air in for the components you really don't have to think about much more than that. Besides, the primo can mount fans in the bottom and top to create a "channel" of air for your hot components so I really don't think you should ever have a temperature problem in the Primo.
> 
> As for size differences between them they are the following:
> 
> The Corsair 760t is 56.8cm deep while the Enthoo Primo is 60cm deep, The Corsair 760t is 56.4cm tall while the Enthoo Primo is 65cm tall and the Corsair 760t is 24.6cm wide while the Enthoo Primo is 25cm wide. This gives you just 8.6cm of a difference in hight or roughly 3 1/2 inches and 3.2cm in difference in depth, which is roughly 1 1/2 inch in difference.
> 
> So really the size difference is not that big between them, but the Enthoo Primo supports a lot more when it comes to both cooling and set-ups.
> 
> For me the Choice between a 900d and an Enthoo Primo was easy, and I should think it should be as easy between the Enthoo Primo and the 760t as well. The 760t does seem to be a full tower with the support of a miditower to be honest.


I'm not sure how this website came up with such numbers then.. I know that it's quite troubling,would be nice to hear from other people arround here altought I doubt many of them owned both 760T and primo's lol, unless people with multiple builds, the fanatics, the crazy ones, the one I like









Of course you're right the primo got more space, I just like the 760T look more, but I can argue, for the time I'll spend looking at my PC..

It's true I'm not sure how the primo would perform that much lower..


----------



## PureBlackFire

the 760T is not at all comparable to the Primo, except in price in some regions. having a Luxe and 750D, the Luxe has better build quality and comes with better fans. the top also has more room with my 60mm thick rad to the tune of maybe 9mm and the top mount is more flexible, as I couldn't mount my H100i and a 120mm fan next to it in the 750D, but could do it in the Luxe. the 750D has more pci-e slots (9 vs 8) and better front rad support with native 280 support. the 760T is the 750D with a clear window for a door, plastic top cover thingy (with no top dust filter) and half the bottom fan mount gone. a fancified 750D basically. it's not a case I'd buy on function and build quality as the cheaper 750D has it beat there and so does the Enthoo Luxe, let alone the Primo that's in another league from these other cases mentioned. basically if you want that eye candy go ahead with the 760T, just don't confuse what you're getting.


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *StrongForce*
> 
> I'm not sure how this website came up with such numbers then.. I know that it's quite troubling,would be nice to hear from other people arround here altought I doubt many of them owned both 760T and primo's lol, unless people with multiple builds, the fanatics, the crazy ones, the one I like
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Of course you're right the primo got more space, I just like the 760T look more, but I can argue, for the time I'll spend looking at my PC..
> 
> It's true I'm not sure how the primo would perform that much lower..


it's likely due to the stock setup in the primo with regards to the placement of the fans. One of the upsides with the sheer size of the Primo is the fact that you can start placing fans at strategic positions around the case, such as a fan directing air flow to the CPU cooler and so on. One of my favorite things about the Primo though is the fact that the PSU is entirely hidden on the back of a plate, ensuring it won't interfere with the temperatures of the rest of the components not to mention that most PSUs are ugly to look at









With the 760t in mind though, it does have one feature that I really like and that is the gorgeous side door. I just love the way it covers so much of the case









I'll let someone else answer you as well, but something to remember is that you need to chose your case after your needs.


----------



## wjturner78

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> it's likely due to the stock setup in the primo with regards to the placement of the fans. One of the upsides with the sheer size of the Primo is the fact that you can start placing fans at strategic positions around the case, such as a fan directing air flow to the CPU cooler and so on. One of my favorite things about the Primo though is the fact that the PSU is entirely hidden on the back of a plate, ensuring it won't interfere with the temperatures of the rest of the components not to mention that most PSUs are ugly to look at
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the 760t in mind though, it does have one feature that I really like and that is the gorgeous side door. I just love the way it covers so much of the case
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'll let someone else answer you as well, but something to remember is that you need to chose your case after your needs.


i agree with everyone else, its not even a close competition. if you want a "great" case get the primo, hands down one of if not the best case out there. certainly the best ive ever owned


----------



## StrongForce

Thanks for the heads up PureBlackFire, and yea indeed, that side door is pretty much what made me like it so badly.. the overall look just look slick of course.

I'm still on the edge, the white 760t is pretty expensive seems like 210-15 euros is the minimum I can get, but the black one I found it for 185 euros, and they run a 15% sale so that's 157 euros without shipping.. now that's quite tempting as I would save 70 euros over the Primo ! which I can get for 230 mmh..

Not gonna lie you guys pretty much sold me on the Primo though.. and I just read the conclusion of the review on HardOCP and they say the temps were amongst the bests they seen even with 3 way SLI so.. guess that's not really a problem


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *StrongForce*
> 
> Thanks for the heads up PureBlackFire, and yea indeed, that side door is pretty much what made me like it so badly.. the overall look just look slick of course.
> 
> I'm still on the edge, the white 760t is pretty expensive seems like 210-15 euros is the minimum I can get, but the black one I found it for 185 euros, and they run a 15% sale so that's 157 euros without shipping.. now that's quite tempting as I would save 70 euros over the Primo ! which I can get for 230 mmh..
> 
> Not gonna lie you guys pretty much sold me on the Primo though.. and I just read the conclusion of the review on HardOCP and they say the temps were amongst the bests they seen even with 3 way SLI so.. guess that's not really a problem


yea, the stock fans setup in the Primo (and Luxe for that matter) is going to show worse as the 760T has an open mesh front and 2x140mm fans and one is not blocked by a hard drive cage. unless you're going to run the setup they way it comes out of the box you may as well disregard the tests. your result will certainly vary.


----------



## StrongForce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PureBlackFire*
> 
> yea, the stock fans setup in the Primo (and Luxe for that matter) is going to show worse as the 760T has an open mesh front and 2x140mm fans and one is not blocked by a hard drive cage. unless you're going to run the setup they way it comes out of the box you may as well disregard the tests. your result will certainly vary.


Oh yea I see.. and there are 15 or 16 fan mount aswell.. soo .

Well EF it guys, I was ordering it anyway







thanks for all the feedback you guys rock !


----------



## MapRef41N93W

So I removed the drive bay cages and front 5.25" cage from my Enthoo Pro so I can mount a pump/res + 280mm rad in the front area, and now I noticed that the motherboard tray is very wobbly without that little piece that was connecting it to the 5.25" bay cage. Do I need to worry about the motherboard tray warping or even collapsing with a fully watercooled setup attached to it?


----------



## wjturner78

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MapRef41N93W*
> 
> So I removed the drive bay cages and front 5.25" cage from my Enthoo Pro so I can mount a pump/res + 280mm rad in the front area, and now I noticed that the motherboard tray is very wobbly without that little piece that was connecting it to the 5.25" bay cage. Do I need to worry about the motherboard tray warping or even collapsing with a fully watercooled setup attached to it?


I don'thave the pro but the thought of my mobo flapping Iin the wind makes me nervous even if it is just a corner... post a pic and I'msure the guys here will help


----------



## emsj86

It shouldn't be a problem but you can keep that piece that connects between the two hdd hard and still mount res and rad there. Or if your not comfortable with that do what I did mount the rad on the bottom keep the front fan and mount rad on the roof.


----------



## wjturner78

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> It shouldn't be a problem but you can keep that piece that connects between the two hdd hard and still mount res and rad there. Or if your not comfortable with that do what I did mount the rad on the bottom keep the front fan and mount rad on the roof.


Where you been brother... check out my new pics in my log. ..


----------



## MapRef41N93W

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wjturner78*
> 
> I don'thave the pro but the thought of my mobo flapping Iin the wind makes me nervous even if it is just a corner... post a pic and I'msure the guys here will help


It's nothing like that. The mobo tray doesn't wobble when you shake the case or anything, but it clearly has some give if you grab it and jiggle it.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> It shouldn't be a problem but you can keep that piece that connects between the two hdd hard and still mount res and rad there. Or if your not comfortable with that do what I did mount the rad on the bottom keep the front fan and mount rad on the roof.


Will be mounting my rad up front and there isn't enough clearance with that piece in place. I also want the pump to be the lowest point in the loop for draining purposes.


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wjturner78*
> 
> Where you been brother... check out my new pics in my log. ..


I'm a hvac/r service tech so with the heat I'm beyond busy and between me and the kid being sick just haven't had much free time. I'll def stop by. Really been thinking of getting a new case. Or just waiting it out and go all out on the next build rather than dropping 100 here a 100 there. I do think I might so what you did and paint the case next tear down. Have blue accents. Really wish phanteks would come out with a case with side mounted rads to rival the sm8, s8 and 900d. I love the look and want a side mount rad case, but 900d is just not good quality in my eyes and the caselabs will have to wait as that cost atleast 700 with all the bells and whistles. Gonna check your log out. Ever thought of hardline tubing with the sleeving you have on the flex tubing ?


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> I'm a hvac/r service tech so with the heat I'm beyond busy and between me and the kid being sick just haven't had much free time. I'll def stop by. Really been thinking of getting a new case. Or just waiting it out and go all out on the next build rather than dropping 100 here a 100 there. I do think I might so what you did and paint the case next tear down. Have blue accents. Really wish phanteks would come out with a case with side mounted rads to rival the sm8, s8 and 900d. I love the look and want a side mount rad case, but 900d is just not good quality in my eyes and the caselabs will have to wait as that cost atleast 700 with all the bells and whistles. Gonna check your log out. Ever thought of hardline tubing with the sleeving you have on the flex tubing ?


Only real benefit I can see with such a setup is that you can have the radiators and ost of the WC system parted off from the rest of the case. Other than that though, the way it works with the S8 and 900d is not all as good as I personally would want it. It's simply because the PSU is mounted in the bottom as well. Something that would be interesting would be a case that has a front mounted PSU and room in the bottom for two 480mm rads. It's the only way I can see a big case becoeing more compact and still supporting all that stuff.

Hmm, I do want to make a scratch build for my next case so who knows what I will do then. For now a Primo supports enough stuff


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MapRef41N93W*
> 
> So I removed the drive bay cages and front 5.25" cage from my Enthoo Pro so I can mount a pump/res + 280mm rad in the front area, and now I noticed that the motherboard tray is very wobbly without that little piece that was connecting it to the 5.25" bay cage. Do I need to worry about the motherboard tray warping or even collapsing with a fully watercooled setup attached to it?


Got a pic of the case in it's present state? No worries if you can't be arsed but I am curious to see...


----------



## Faster_is_better

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *031Dutch*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Faster_is_better*
> 
> Looks really nice. Is that a special edition or did you paint the interior yourself?
> 
> Also which LED strip did you use on the right side, the one that goes behind the frosted plastic and creates more of a glow (also can be turned on/off with the button)??
> 
> 
> 
> Hello faster is better. Yes it is the phanteks se special edition.
> The led strip on the side behind the frosted plastic can be turned off on the top button, but with this you also turn the fan led also off or on.
Click to expand...

I worded my question poorly. Did you replace the LED strip there with a red one? Does the SE Red Primo come with red led's by default? I may have to hit up Phanteks and see if they can sell me them, so I can change out my blue ones if so...


----------



## wjturner78

i do believe i am the first to pull this off...






i only did one hinge just to see if it was gonna work. i have a great idea for the stock hinges hole


you can still see my stickers are now upside down. i still need to clean this opening up a bit its slightly bulging toward the 5.25 side and obviously sand and paint but overall im very happy in the end this will look as flawless as the original

for those interested ill post better pics of the mounting and new magnet system in my log just as soon as i get it all cleaned up and looking proper.

and for the side panel what do you guys think? door or no door?
i like them both


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!






Spoiler: door













Spoiler: solid glas


----------



## By-Tor

@wjturner78,

What did you do to the long vertical panel where the Phanteks logo is located?

Looks different in that 3rd picture.

Could you post a picture of it?

Thanks


----------



## wjturner78

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *By-Tor*
> 
> @wjturner78,
> 
> What did you do to the long vertical panel where the Phanteks logo is located?
> 
> Looks different in that 3rd picture.
> 
> Could you post a picture of it?
> 
> Thanks






i made 2 poly panels one that covers all the entire lenght of the panel hiding all the holes etc


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!









and a second that slides in from the top that stands off fitting flush to the outer edge being backlit to highlight the sponsors (is currently unpainted and entirely clear


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!









@By-Tor you should subscribe to my build
http://www.overclock.net/t/1543515/sponsored-the-phoenix-rog-rve-5960x-40-tb-1080mm-rad-space-enthoo-primo


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wjturner78*
> 
> i do believe i am the first to pull this off...
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i only did one hinge just to see if it was gonna work. i have a great idea for the stock hinges hole
> 
> 
> you can still see my stickers are now upside down. i still need to clean this opening up a bit its slightly bulging toward the 5.25 side and obviously sand and paint but overall im very happy in the end this will look as flawless as the original
> 
> 
> 
> for those interested ill post better pics of the mounting and new magnet system in my log just as soon as i get it all cleaned up and looking proper.


First one I've seen.








Looks well done too!








Look forward to seeing how you did the switch-over,


----------



## wjturner78

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> First one I've seen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Looks well done too!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Look forward to seeing how you did the switch-over,


thank you sir, I appreciate the kind words. As the thread starter you've probably seen just about every primo out there... i still havent done the second hinge yet and when i do ill take alot of pics for a mini tut if anyone else is interested in doing this. It wasnt as hard as i thought and can be done easily by almost anyone.

The primo is such a well thought out quality case, phanteks took time and attention to almost every detail I only had 2 gripes with the case the smoked window and the how the door opened to the wrong side...


----------



## ref

Looking into getting my first custom water cooling loop started, I know on paper it says the Primo can sport 2 480 rads. I was thinking of doing 1 on top, 1 on bottom. But I've been reading around and some are saying it's a tight fit in the bottom? Something about most being too wide?

Anyone have experience with a 480 rad in the bottom?


----------



## wjturner78

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ref*
> 
> Looking into getting my first custom water cooling loop started, I know on paper it says the Primo can sport 2 480 rads. I was thinking of doing 1 on top, 1 on bottom. But I've been reading around and some are saying it's a tight fit in the bottom? Something about most being too wide?
> 
> Anyone have experience with a 480 rad in the bottom?


it is a tight fit down there what rad are you wanting to use


----------



## ref

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wjturner78*
> 
> it is a tight fit down there what rad are you wanting to use


Was looking at an EK XTX 480, or AlphaCool UT60 480.


----------



## wjturner78

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ref*
> 
> Was looking at an EK XTX 480, or AlphaCool UT60 480.


alphacool i know is ok so check specs on ek


----------



## ref

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wjturner78*
> 
> alphacool i know is ok so check specs on ek


Alphacool is 124mm width. EK is 130mm, so it looks like that is out of the question.

Only problem now is the Alphacool is out of stock on Dazmode (Canadian watercooling site).

I wonder how a 125mm radiator would be... it seems the user manual states that the max width is 125mm.


----------



## wjturner78

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ref*
> 
> Alphacool is 124mm width. EK is 130mm, so it looks like that is out of the question.
> 
> Only problem now is the Alphacool is out of stock on Dazmode (Canadian watercooling site).
> 
> I wonder how a 125mm radiator would be... it seems the user manual states that the max width is 125mm.


i have a ut60 and its tight i suppose 1mm more wont hurt


----------



## ref

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wjturner78*
> 
> i have a ut60 and its tight i suppose 1mm more wont hurt


I might give it a shot then.

How is it tight exactly? Tight as in almost touching the case, or tight as in hard to work with tubing.

It's my first WC build so if it's going to make it even more of a challenge in terms of setting it all up, I may just go with a 360.

However, if it's just tight in the sense it's almost touching the case, that I don't mind.


----------



## MapRef41N93W

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> Got a pic of the case in it's present state? No worries if you can't be arsed but I am curious to see...


I wasn't able to really get a good pic. But basically the case is the same just all the drive bays removed. I kept that panel with the Phanteks logo in place as it's pretty important for support and also gives me something to mount my res too.


----------



## bakingbread86

Anybody painted their Enthoo? Specifically the Pro? How did it come out? I'm thinking of painting mine and would love to hear some experiences.


----------



## StrongForce

My Primo just got delivered, woohoo, it's massive indeed ! I'm currently not feeling well catched a cold so not sure I wanna build PC today.. later if I feel better, going back to bed now







. but damn it does look cool !

Anything I must know/do before starting to build with this monster

My PC will now have a name "Kraioken" it's a joke we have with a friend, he named his after megalodon, Megolidon aha, the Kraken with a little DBZ reference ehe


----------



## Reaper28

Nice work







. I don't think you have enough controllers lol


----------



## TMatzelle60

Reaper does the SE Red what color is the power led and activity hdd led. Are they all red?


----------



## wjturner78

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Reaper28*
> 
> 
> 
> Nice work
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . I don't think you have enough controllers lol


Lol thanks, I would put more controllers in but I ran out of room.







Got the aq6 to control my loop and fans, the rog oc panel for overclocking and a switch bay to control the lighting...

primo owners; .....
if there is any one interested in the door swap please let me know, Ill do a mini "tut" on it If there is intrest but if not I don'twanna waste the time


----------



## wjturner78

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bakingbread86*
> 
> Anybody painted their Enthoo? Specifically the Pro? How did it come out? I'm thinking of painting mine and would love to hear some experiences.


i painted mine its a primo though, its like painting anything else.... its not fun and your reults are dependent upon you could look great may be a mistake
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *StrongForce*
> 
> My Primo just got delivered, woohoo, it's massive indeed ! I'm currently not feeling well catched a cold so not sure I wanna build PC today.. later if I feel better, going back to bed now
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . but damn it does look cool !
> 
> Anything I must know/do before starting to build with this monster
> 
> My PC will now have a name "Kraioken" it's a joke we have with a friend, he named his after megalodon, Megolidon aha, the Kraken with a little DBZ reference ehe


congrats! the primo is an excellent case im sure you will enjoy it and there is plenty of help here should you need it, the only thing i can say is before you post any questions about the fan controller here search this thread FIRST!









im currently building a modded primo you should subscribe to my thread
http://www.overclock.net/t/1543515/sponsored-the-phoenix-rog-rve-5960x-40-tb-1080mm-rad-space-enthoo-primo


----------



## TMatzelle60

Any Evolv ITX owners is it easy to swap out the led on that case it looks like it is?


----------



## Onyxian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I was wondering on how to do a drain port and I like this idea. Being new to water cooling, what connectors/fittings are these? And.. how do I use it?


----------



## MapRef41N93W

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Onyxian*
> 
> I was wondering on how to do a drain port and I like this idea. Being new to water cooling, what connectors/fittings are these? And.. how do I use it?


That's a bitspower 90 degree rotary attached to the pump followed by what looks to be a black chrome 30mm extender followed by something that resembles a quick disconnect fitting. Unless you're using a dual pump setup with a dual pump top you wouldn't need such an elaborate setup for a drain port. You could simply attach a Bitspower mini valve (this http://www.performance-pcs.com/bitspower-bp-mvv-mbk-mini-valve-matt-black.html) to one of the empty ports on a multiport top such as this http://www.performance-pcs.com/pump-accessories/xspc-acetal-top-for-laing-d5-multiport.html with a stop fitting attached to it for extra security. Then you just remove the stop fitting and turn the valve and let gravity do the work as your loop empties out of the valve.


----------



## Onyxian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MapRef41N93W*
> 
> That's a bitspower 90 degree rotary attached to the pump followed by what looks to be a black chrome 30mm extender followed by something that resembles a quick disconnect fitting. Unless you're using a dual pump setup with a dual pump top you wouldn't need such an elaborate setup for a drain port. You could simply attach a Bitspower mini valve (this http://www.performance-pcs.com/bitspower-bp-mvv-mbk-mini-valve-matt-black.html) to one of the empty ports on a multiport top such as this http://www.performance-pcs.com/pump-accessories/xspc-acetal-top-for-laing-d5-multiport.html with a stop fitting attached to it for extra security. Then you just remove the stop fitting and turn the valve and let gravity do the work as your loop empties out of the valve.


Cool, that seems much simpler. I have this coming in soon and will see if I can do that. Planning to use the pump mount in the Primo not sure how much breathing room I have there.


----------



## MapRef41N93W

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Onyxian*
> 
> Cool, that seems much simpler. I have this coming in soon and will see if I can do that. Planning to use the pump mount in the Primo not sure how much breathing room I have there.


Yes that pump top is pretty much the same as what I linked you but EK branded. If you don't have enough space to collect the water from your valve as it empties, you could always attach a fitting to the drain end of it like a barb with a piece of tubing and drain it outside of your case.


----------



## StrongForce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wjturner78*
> 
> i painted mine its a primo though, its like painting anything else.... its not fun and your reults are dependent upon you could look great may be a mistake
> congrats! the primo is an excellent case im sure you will enjoy it and there is plenty of help here should you need it, the only thing i can say is before you post any questions about the fan controller here search this thread FIRST!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> im currently building a modded primo you should subscribe to my thread
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1543515/sponsored-the-phoenix-rog-rve-5960x-40-tb-1080mm-rad-space-enthoo-primo


Ahh nice man, that's sick... I'll sub !


----------



## 031Dutch

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Faster_is_better*
> 
> I worded my question poorly. Did you replace the LED strip there with a red one? Does the SE Red Primo come with red led's by default? I may have to hit up Phanteks and see if they can sell me them, so I can change out my blue ones if so...


the phanteks case se red led comes by default. I dont think phanteks sell them. But you can give it a try. 1 answer you al ready have thats no. If they say yes its your lucky day.


----------



## owcraftsman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ref*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *wjturner78*
> 
> i have a ut60 and its tight i suppose 1mm more wont hurt
> 
> 
> 
> I might give it a shot then.
> 
> How is it tight exactly? Tight as in almost touching the case, or tight as in hard to work with tubing.
> 
> It's my first WC build so if it's going to make it even more of a challenge in terms of setting it all up, I may just go with a 360.
> 
> However, if it's just tight in the sense it's almost touching the case, that I don't mind.
Click to expand...

Tight as in install the bottom Rad first before anything else, remove drive bays, rear case fan, grommet on PSU cover, you will need all the room you can get to drop a 480 that is 125mm wide in the bottom of a primo the top is no less a picnic either but it's doable. Depending on how you screw it tight it may be touching one side or the other. By my ruler there is 127mm of width. Once in you should have no issues with tubing.


----------



## TMatzelle60

Just ordered the Evolv ITX windowed can't wait to do a ROG Build


----------



## Reaper28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Onyxian*
> 
> I was wondering on how to do a drain port and I like this idea. Being new to water cooling, what connectors/fittings are these? And.. how do I use it?


I have my setup sort of similar, using the outlet on my rad with a drain port (excuse the grainy pic)


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TMatzelle60*
> 
> Just ordered the Evolv ITX windowed can't wait to do a ROG Build


Awesome, we need lots of pics.


----------



## TMatzelle60

r
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rfarmer*
> 
> Awesome, we need lots of pics.


Hey the power led and hdd led they are both white right also what other led color are on the case?


----------



## rfarmer

Only led is the one circled, it is a white. It's not very bright, only realy see it when it is dark.


----------



## TMatzelle60

Oh i heard there is a led by the reset switch that is white.

I was going to ask how u know lol i want to make sure there is no blue led in this case lol Color Scheme OCD !


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TMatzelle60*
> 
> Oh i heard there is a led by the reset switch that is white.
> 
> I was going to ask how u know lol i want to make sure there is no blue led in this case lol Color Scheme OCD !


Sorry I meant that was the only led other than the hdd indicator, which is white. It is quite small around the reset switch to the right of the usb ports.

I have a blue/black build so I would welcome more blue in the case, but there is none.


----------



## TMatzelle60

Ok so the Power LED is white and the HDD LED is small white too just want to make sure. Thanks so much rep+


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ref*
> 
> I might give it a shot then.
> 
> How is it tight exactly? Tight as in almost touching the case, or tight as in hard to work with tubing.
> 
> It's my first WC build so if it's going to make it even more of a challenge in terms of setting it all up, I may just go with a 360.
> 
> However, if it's just tight in the sense it's almost touching the case, that I don't mind.


FYI though two 480s is likely overkill for two 980s and a relatively cool-running modern CPU and (and motherboard board...and ram). Two rads is not a bad idea but you can probably save yourself some coin compared to your original plan (and also some hassle from this tighter dual 480 fit; that means the ports can be harder to get to as well or may be blocked by something else).
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Onyxian*
> 
> I was wondering on how to do a drain port and I like this idea. Being new to water cooling, what connectors/fittings are these? And.. how do I use it?


Mainly a T fitting or adapter of some sort to split off at a low point then can also incorporate some extenders or a 90 adapter if appropriate and also a valve at the end such as those made by Bitspower (but such is not necessary; just unscrewing a stop plug can work too). Note it can be very tough to make one that drains the _entire_ loop (at least without tilting), even if its at the very lowest point. An air-water exchange is also needed for draining (not just gravity) so it can help a lot to have a high point you can open up to let some air in the loop as well (a fill port could double as this).

Edit: Or if you have a multiport Alphacool rad you can possibly use one of the additional ports (most notably the bleed) and not need the T fitting. Or any additional port off any component; I use one off my bottom GPU block.


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Reaper28*
> 
> I have my setup sort of similar, using the outlet on my rad with a drain port (excuse the grainy pic)


yea I done the same. Def wish I got a rad that had multi ports up top, because other than my res when draining I dont have anywhere at the highest point to open up to release air to allow to drain the entire loop. As mine stand now when i drain it and open my reservior port it leaves coolant between the cpu and top rad.. But my setup is very similar.


----------



## owcraftsman

ENTHOO LUXE

Just an Update Had a bit of time to work on my Luxe build today and I'm happy to report the connector jumpers I reported on earlier most definitely work with the 2m Phanteks RBG LED strip.

This will make routing them through the case a bit easier.

They can be had at the link below

http://www.amazon.com/ZITRADES-Connector-Conductor-Jumper-connector/dp/B00977FHG4/ref=pd_bxgy_60_img_z

Proof



All you need is an exacto knife and scissors.

The marks on the Led strip is clearly marked where to cut. Then you need to peel back the silicon sleeving approx 6mm



Insert then snap closed the connector.



I also installed some Dimmable Darkside LED strip at the I/O Panel. Their cable drops down through two holes drilled in the bottom of the I/O well. On the right a 5.5" and on the left a 12" strip. I hate searching for a flash light LOL



They can be had at the links below

http://www.performance-pcs.com/darkside-connect-dimmable-5-5-modular-led-strip-red.html

http://www.performance-pcs.com/darkside-connect-dimmable-12-modular-led-strip-red.html


----------



## wjturner78

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *owcraftsman*
> 
> ENTHOO LUXE
> 
> Just an Update Had a bit of time to work on my Luxe build today and I'm happy to report the connector jumpers I reported on earlier most definitely work with the 2m Phanteks RBG LED strip.
> This will make routing them through the case a bit easier.
> 
> They can be had at the link below
> 
> http://www.amazon.com/ZITRADES-Connector-Conductor-Jumper-connector/dp/B00977FHG4/ref=pd_bxgy_60_img_z
> 
> Proof
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All you need is an exacto knife and scissors.
> 
> The marks on the Led strip is clearly marked where to cut. Then you need to peel back the silicon sleeving approx 6mm
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Insert then snap closed the connector.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also installed some Dimmable Darkside LED strip at the I/O Panel. Their cable drops down through two holes drilled in the bottom of the I/O well. On the right a 5.5" and on the left a 12" strip. I hate searching for a flash light LOL
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> They can be had at the links below
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/darkside-connect-dimmable-5-5-modular-led-strip-red.html
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/darkside-connect-dimmable-12-modular-led-strip-red.html


looks good nice call on the connectors should make it easier for some
i like the iopanel light i may borrow this idea from you


----------



## dreameer111

Question for the luxe and mini xl users. Are you able to turn off the leds or are they always on?


----------



## sav4

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dreameer111*
> 
> Question for the luxe and mini xl users. Are you able to turn off the leds or are they always on?


I know for sure you can turn the luxe lights off by holding the light button in for 5sec .


----------



## DreadfulDave

I'm making some theorycrafting on my new water-cooled build...
I wonder if the following construction is a good utilization of the *Enthoo Luxe*:



The drive-cage would be aftermarket.
First I have to order the case so I can search for accurate dimensions.

I was thinking about using a 240mm Radiator ontop as I'm not sure if the fan above the 5.25 bays has enough room.
I'm not sure if two 240mm radiators are enough to reach good temperatures while remaining silent.

*There are basically three options:*
1. Keep everything as seen on the picture.
2. Reduce the Top-Radiator from 360mm to 240mm.
3. Remove the Hot-Swap Bay (and use the Reservoir+Pump combo on the lowest bay) which should give the Fan enough room.

Additionally I'm wondering if it is better to ditch the intake-radiator to ensure that the case is fed with cold air.
In my build there is basically only one unheated intake-source, the front-intake's air would get heated up by the front radiator.
I guess this needs testing, but would the case-temperature be noticeably lower without the front-radiator?
Given the fact that the top-radiator is an exhaust, a lower case temperature should directly relate to cooler component temperatures.


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DreadfulDave*
> 
> I'm making some theorycrafting on my new water-cooled build...
> I wonder if the following construction is a good uitilization of the *Enthoo Luxe*:
> 
> 
> 
> The drive-cage would be aftermarket.
> First I have to order the case so I can search for accurate dimensions.


Should be fine, although I think you may strugle getting all that stuff in the case. It all depends on how much the rads build and how much space is where they are put, 30mm may work but I doupt much thicker ones woudl. Still I don't have experience with the Luxe, so I'm just going off pictures here. The layout seems fine though, although I don't know where you will run that rad to rad line since the space that is marked would be taken by the res and hotswap.


----------



## DreadfulDave

That's a bit hard to put on paper... there are some cutouts next to the drive-bays where I can route the tubing.


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DreadfulDave*
> 
> That's a bit hard to put on paper... there are some cutouts next to the drive-bays where I can route the tubing.


I see... well in that regard, the layout seems fine, but as you said yourself it would be best to hold of on ordering all the parts until you have some accurate masurements.


----------



## DreadfulDave

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> I see... well in that regard, the layout seems fine, but as you said yourself it would be best to hold of on ordering all the parts until you have some accurate masurements.


Unfortunately I can't really start building the full loop until the 1551-Socket dimensions are released.
I'm currently running on good old Sandy and while I could already make a loop with my current CPU, it would be a waste if the CPU-block (1155 socket) does not fit on the 1151 socket.

*In the meantime I would be very glad if someone could help me out with my questions, as this will be my first watercooled system.*

_________________________________________________
repost (last page)

I'm making some theorycrafting on my new water-cooled build...
I wonder if the following construction is a good utilization of the *Enthoo Luxe*:



The drive-cage would be aftermarket.
First I have to order the case so I can search for accurate dimensions.
There is a possibility that the cage will not fit due to space limitations.

I was thinking about using a 240mm Radiator ontop as I'm uncertain that the fan above the 5.25 bays has enough room.
I'm not sure if two 240mm radiators are enough to reach good temperatures while remaining silent.

*There are basically three options:*
1. Keep everything as seen on the picture.
2. Reduce the Top-Radiator from 360mm to 240mm.
3. Remove the Hot-Swap Bay (and use the Reservoir+Pump combo on the lowest bay) which should give the Fan enough room.

Additionally I'm wondering if it is better to ditch the intake-radiator to ensure that the case is fed with cold air.
In my build there is basically only one unheated intake-source, the front-intake's air would get heated up by the front radiator.
I guess this needs testing, but would the case-temperature be noticeably lower without the front-radiator?
Given the fact that the top-radiator is an exhaust, a lower case temperature should directly relate to cooler component temperatures.


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DreadfulDave*
> 
> Unfortunately I can't really start building the full loop until the 1551-Socket dimensions are released.
> I'm currently running on good old Sandy and while I could already make a loop with my current CPU, it would be a waste if the CPU-block (1555 socket) does not fit on the 1551 socket.
> 
> I was thinking about using a 240mm Radiator ontop as I'm uncertain that the fan above the 5.25 bays has enough room.
> I'm not sure if two 240mm radiators are enough to reach good temperatures while remaining silent.
> 
> *There are basically three options:*
> 1. Keep everything as seen on the picture.
> 2. Reduce the Top-Radiator from 360mm to 240mm.
> 3. Remove the Hot-Swap Bay (and use the Reservoir+Pump combo on the lowest bay) which should give the Fan enough room.
> 
> Additionally I'm wondering if it is better to ditch the intake-radiator to ensure that the case is fed with cold air.
> In my build there is basically only one unheated intake-source, the front-intake's air would get heated up by the front radiator.
> I guess this needs testing, but would the case-temperature be noticeably lower without the front-radiator?
> Given the fact that the top-radiator is an exhaust, a lower case temperature should directly relate to cooler component temperatures.


I assume you mean the 1155 socket and 1151, in such a case most block manufacturers release a new mount for new sockets if it doens't support it anymore (but I doubt the dimentions will be changed as the 1156, 1155 and 1150 have all remained the same).

Two 240mm rads is more than enough to cool a single GPU and a CPU, but more rad space is always good to keep the temps down as you can lower the fan speed and have a more silent experience while still having very good temps.

as for using a radiator as intake or not... it does matter in the sense that it will give marginally higher water temperatures, but more rad space always trumps that argument. So if you have the choice between a single 360mm and a 360mm + 240mm in front intake then the adition of the extra 240mm rad will improve temps far mroe than it would alter them by adding heat.

The most important temps are alreay cooled by the liquid cooling, so any other components that would be affected would already be components that does not get as hot to start with. it is important to remember to have some air flow over the motherboard though in the sense that you still need to cool that SB and the VRMs, but as long as you keep all the radiators inside the case then you should have no problems with air flow.

something to mention though would be the fans you have listed. They are both excelent, but I do hope you won't run them in push/pull on the same rad. That could potentially shorten the life of one of the fans as one can be delivering more air then the other can handle. Thus it's always recommended to run the same fans if you intend to ues push/pull.


----------



## DreadfulDave

Thanks for answering my questions.








I initially planned to utilize a total of 6 Noiseblocker eLoops but it seems like they can't be utilized in Pull without a shroud.
The bionic construction causes air-turbulence when there is not enough room between the intake of the fan and an object (radiator).

*...this is how they sound in pull:*






*Nonetheless they have a very good noise/performance ratio when they are used in push.*
Source


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DreadfulDave*
> 
> Thanks for answering my questions.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I initially planned to utilize a total of 6 Noiseblocker eLoops but it seems like they can't be utilized in Pull without a shroud.
> The bionic construction causes air-turbulence when there is not enough room between the intake of the fan and an object (radiator).
> 
> *...this is how they sound in pull:*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Nonetheless they have a very good noise/performance ratio when they are used in push.*
> Source


I actually have some in pull myself, and it's fine as long as the distance to the radiator is more than 5mm. I will be using a 5mm thick rubber gasket that I will be cutting to size for just that in my Primo. The only reason I will be using the Eloops though is that I already have some. They are good but, for me the price is not worth it anymore, so I will be using some Cooler Master Silencio fans as well so that I don't have to get another 3 eloop fans that will set me back roughly 70-90USD (here at home anyways), I would much rather have 3 silencio fans for about 30-40USD then









The eloops are super quiet though


----------



## DreadfulDave

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> I actually have some in pull myself, and it's fine as long as the distance to the radiator is more than 5mm. I will be using a 5mm thick rubber gasket that I will be cutting to size for just that in my Primo. The only reason I will be using the Eloops though is that I already have some. They are good but, for me the price is not worth it anymore, so I will be using some Cooler Master Silencio fans as well so that I don't have to get another 3 eloop fans that will set me back roughly 70-90USD (here at home anyways), I would much rather have 3 silencio fans for about 30-40USD then
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The eloops are super quiet though


I see, which fans would you recommend for my front intake and top exhaust?
6x Eloops 12-BS + 3 Shrouds would cost about 100€ in germany.
6x CM Silencio FP12 (PWM) or BQ Pure Wings would cost about 40€ less.

In the end I'm looking for a good noise/performance ratio, but if there are cheaper options I would not hesitate to utilize a different fan.

Edit: I've just found the CM FP12 in the fan-chart.
Unfortunately the radiator-airflow at low-noise (7V) does seem to be pretty low.
They are inferior in comparison with the similar priced BQ Pure Wings.


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DreadfulDave*
> 
> I see, which fans would you recommend for my front intake and top exhaust?
> I'm living in Germany and the eLoops would cost me 15€ each, the Cooler Master Silencio FP 120 PWM would cost 10€ each.
> The price difference does seem to be less significant.


Yeah, I actually order my eloops from Germany when I need them as the price is a bit lower even after taxes and postage. I keep mentioning everything in USD on OCN though since it is the currency used by most here







I actually live in Norway, so the price for the Silencio fans is 99NOK and the Eloops go for 220NOK or about 180NOK when I import them. At that price I just get the Silencio now as they are just as good or better in some reviews. A good alternative is the Alphacool eloops or the Phobya eloops as they tend to be a bit cheaper then what the Blacknoise Noiseblocker fans are.

It is all dependent on your budget and I can say for sure that the eloops are very very quiet even at higher RPMs. I have had Noctua NF-f12 and Corsair sp120 fans that I returned because they made to much engine and air noise. The eloops seem to be more like the wind though, and even though the volume is the same as others I prefer it as it sounds more natural to me. There are many good fans to choose from though, but I tend to recommend the CM fans simply beacue they are quite a bit cheaper than most other SP fans.

Really though it's all about personal preference as there are a plethora of good static pressure fans available now. In fact 2014 was a big year for static pressure fans








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DreadfulDave*
> 
> Edit: I've just found the CM FP12 in the fan-chart.
> Unfortunately the radiator-airflow at low-noise (7V) does seem to be pretty low.
> They are inferior in comparison with the similar priced BQ Pure Wings.


they also go on 100RPMs lower at 12v, and perform better at a set decibel level. It's what I usually go for as I really don't care about what fan has the higest AF. What is important is after all the perfomance at the noise level you will be running them at, if not you may as well just compare 6000RPM deltas with 800RPM Gentle Typhoon fans. As for which fans are best at a set noise level, it's the eloops.

Depending on if your budget is strapped or not, then I would get the Eloops if you can. just check how much space you have up top in the case for a shroud, if not you may be better off getting one of the following fans: CM Silencio, EKWB Vardar, Alphacool Sussuro, Noctua NF-F12, Corsair SP120 or Be Quiet Pure Wings 2.


----------



## ciarlatano

The EVOLV ATX is another incredible case from Phanteks -


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> The EVOLV ATX is another incredible case from Phanteks -


nice. same price as the Luxe and all aluminum panels. interesting. one thing I'd like to see different is hard drive mounting. this case lets you do like the H440 with the hard drives, but I'd like to see them use the space behind the rear panel for 3.5" mounting. it should be pretty easy to do anyway.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Heh I never really plan my loops out ahead of time short of what rads and where. Makes it more of a pain sometimes but it still usually all works out nicely…which I love. This last one (moved to Enthoo Pro) came out even better than I'd hoped and using fittings and adapters and extenders etc that I already had. This amazing case is a large part of that though.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PureBlackFire*
> 
> nice. same price as the Luxe and all aluminum panels. interesting. one thing I'd like to see different is hard drive mounting. this case lets you do like the H440 with the hard drives, but I'd like to see them use the space behind the rear panel for 3.5" mounting. it should be pretty easy to do anyway.


I am going to take a look at that. Rear mounting the HDD would make life significantly easier when using a front mounted radiator.


----------



## fisher6

Wonder how the airflow in the Evolv ATX will be compared to the Define S.


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> I am going to take a look at that. Rear mounting the HDD would make life significantly easier when using a front mounted radiator.


indeed.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fisher6*
> 
> Wonder how the airflow in the Evolv ATX will be compared to the Define S.


might be better out of the box as the S only comes with a single intake fan in front. the define S probably has more spaced out vents for intake.


----------



## fisher6

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fisher6*
> 
> Wonder how the airflow in the Evolv ATX will be compared to the Define S.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PureBlackFire*
> 
> indeed.
> might be better out of the box as the S only comes with a single intake fan in front. the define S probably has more spaced out vents for intake.


Ah I mean with rads installed. Was thinking a 240 in the front and 360 on top with NFF12s on both rads.


----------



## Faster_is_better

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *031Dutch*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Faster_is_better*
> 
> I worded my question poorly. Did you replace the LED strip there with a red one? Does the SE Red Primo come with red led's by default? I may have to hit up Phanteks and see if they can sell me them, so I can change out my blue ones if so...
> 
> 
> 
> the phanteks case se red led comes by default. I dont think phanteks sell them. But you can give it a try. 1 answer you al ready have thats no. If they say yes its your lucky day.
Click to expand...

Hmm I will have to hit them up. Actually Phanteks is pretty good about selling replacement parts if you send them an email.


----------



## emsj86

Just watched hardware Canucks evolv atx. I love it. Any one know if you can mount fans above the top bracket. Also anyone know radiator sizes meaning thickness allowed. I think a good idea would to use one of this hdd hders and mount my ek heat sink and res pump combo to it. Didn't like the evolv before but this case looks great


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Just watched hardware Canucks evolv atx. I love it. Any one know if you can mount fans above the top bracket. Also anyone know radiator sizes meaning thickness allowed. I think a good idea would to use one of this hdd hders and mount my ek heat sink and res pump combo to it. Didn't like the evolv before but this case looks great


Mounting fans up top would require cutting supports. It can be done, but not easily, and they likely will not line up with a rad due to the offset mount.

All of the rad specifics are in the HTL review including MB clearances.


----------



## ZombieEinstein

I've read some reviews saying that the SE Primos have some coverage issues with with secondary paint colors - is this true?


----------



## TMatzelle60

I'm waiting on EVGA Z170 ITX


----------



## Gil80

Hi Phanteks fans.

FYI

couple of weeks ago I asked over this thread if it's possible to mount a 240mm rad in front of the case BUT still using the existing 140mm fans without modifying anything.

To my surprise, I was able to mount the 240mm/30mm rad and use the existing 140mm fans in the front part of the Entoo Primo without modifying anything.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







As in the words of Borat - Great Siksess


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Mounting fans up top would require cutting supports. It can be done, but not easily, and they likely will not line up with a rad due to the offset mount.
> 
> All of the rad specifics are in the HTL review including MB clearances.


Sounds good. Watched your videos which helped me build my first pc back in march of last year. Came a long way since. Now wih a full hardline build. But always liked your videos. Got me to buy the cm glacer 240l which than I expanded and well it snow balled from there. So in a way you got me into water cooling so big thumbs up for that.


----------



## emsj86

Sorry for double post but if someone has access to the evolv atx two things one will there be other colors avaible if so what kind? Also I would like to see a picture of a large 50-60mm rad up too with a mobo in place to see if it looks funky being that it supports it being offset but would cover the motherboard. I really like this case for some reason I didn't like it before until it was a atx version. My plan is to do a 360 rad too and front but would like a top rad to be thick but not cover up the mobo. I also plan to do a window mod and than us the hdd mount area to mount my pump res and heatsink combo there. Hmmm so many options but I really like it. I think cutting andodding the top panel to make it mesh as long as a 360 rad would look nice as I'm concerned that the case might suffer like the h440 with air flow causing temps on for watercooling to not be as good as they could. Sorry for the long winded comment


----------



## Onyxian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gil80*
> 
> To my surprise, I was able to mount the 240mm/30mm rad and use the existing 140mm fans in the front part of the Entoo Primo without modifying anything.


I am pretty confused by a couple of different things as I was messing around with the case. I myself was wondering if a 140 stuff could fit in the front or what that bottom bracket was for.


----------



## Gil80

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Onyxian*
> 
> I am pretty confused by a couple of different things as I was messing around with the case. I myself was wondering if a 140 stuff could fit in the front or what that bottom bracket was for.


You can use 120mm fans instead of the 140mm fans. The bracket that is installed in the case supports both fan sizes.
However, that same bracket can only support 240mm radiator (i.e. 2x 120mm).
To be precise, it's not the bracket that limits the support of a larger 280mm rad, it's the HDD cage above it. If you know how to use a Dermel, you can mod it so it would fit a 280mm rad.


----------



## Onyxian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gil80*
> 
> You can use 120mm fans instead of the 140mm fans. The bracket that is installed in the case supports both fan sizes.
> However, that same bracket can only support 240mm radiator (i.e. 2x 120mm).
> To be precise, it's not the bracket that limits the support of a larger 280mm rad, it's the HDD cage above it. If you know how to use a Dermel, you can mod it so it would fit a 280mm rad.


By bottom bracket I meant this one.


----------



## Gil80

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Onyxian*
> 
> By bottom bracket I meant this one.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


The bottom bracket is to fit 120mm fans on a 240mm radiator.
It sort of acting as a shroud for the radiator/fans.
I didn't use this as I placed a 280mm/60mm rad with Push Pull fans.


----------



## Onyxian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gil80*
> 
> [/SPOILER]
> 
> The bottom bracket is to fit 120mm fans on a 240mm radiator.
> It sort of acting as a shroud for the radiator/fans.
> I didn't use this as I placed a 280mm/60mm rad with Push Pull fans.


Ah, I didn't take a good look at it nor did I have radiators to test fit and see how things worked. I plan to use a 280 down there in my build, not sure if I need it or not. I also plan to use that top hole for some tubing so wondering if I can skip that bracket and get a thicker radiator. Didn't measure anything yet but I hope to use an SR2 down there.


----------



## Gil80

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Onyxian*
> 
> Ah, I didn't take a good look at it nor did I have radiators to test fit and see how things worked. I plan to use a 280 down there in my build, not sure if I need it or not. I also plan to use that top hole for some tubing so wondering if I can skip that bracket and get a thicker radiator. Didn't measure anything yet but I hope to use an SR2 down there.


if you're using 280mm radiator, you don't need that bracket.
I use a 280mm by 60mm radiator.
In terms of width or thickness, I believe you can fit up to 80mm radiator, which is the Alphacool 280mm Monsta.
You can place longer radiators as well but that will be more complicated and will occupy the bottom HDD cage or Pump placement or the additional optional front radiator.

See the lower 280/60mm radiator with push/pull fans config I installed:


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## Onyxian

Awesome, looks good bro. Might even go push/pull if I'm feeling like it. More Vardars! I want to keep my 2 planned 980Tis ice cold.. Or room temperature.


----------



## Lyxchoklad

Hoping to become a member of this club. Ordered a white Evolv matx for a secondary rig which should arrive Wednesday.


----------



## Myloween

Hi,
I wonder what is the best airflow on Enthoo Primo with this configuration, can you help me ?
I hesitate between several setups but if you have better idea, I'm open.
  

Thank you very much.
I will post some pictures of my setup and my tweaks once finished.


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Myloween*
> 
> Hi,
> I wonder what is the best airflow on Enthoo Primo with this configuration, can you help me ?
> I hesitate between several setups but if you have better idea, I'm open.
> 
> 
> Thank you very much.
> I will post some pictures of my setup and my tweaks once finished.


Personally I would and will in ym own case use the bottom fans and front fans as intake, while I have the rear and top fans as exhaust. This means I can have a natural air flow that will give sufficient cooling to all the other components as well as decent air flow for the radiators in use (two 480mm rads).


----------



## Myloween

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> Personally I would and will in ym own case use the bottom fans and front fans as intake, while I have the rear and top fans as exhaust. This means I can have a natural air flow that will give sufficient cooling to all the other components as well as decent air flow for the radiators in use (two 480mm rads).


Thank you, it's interesting but the radiator on the top takes the hot flow, it's not better to take the cold air of exterior ?
After I have also a 1080mm MO-Ra Pro outside of my case.


----------



## By-Tor

Myloween,

I have been running something like No.1, but I used all 120mm fans all the way around and turned the rear fan around to push air into the case and have used it that way for years with great success. My new build (working on it now) using the Enthoo Primo will also use the same air flow path...


----------



## VulgarDisplay88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lyxchoklad*
> 
> Hoping to become a member of this club. Ordered a white Evolv matx for a secondary rig which should arrive Wednesday.


Make sure you post some pics. I love the Evolv and also own a white one.


----------



## Myloween

Ok thank you very much for your reply








After more thinking, finaly I go to make this airflow :


----------



## Khr1s

May I join the club ? I have one of the first white evolv's sold in the world







And I love it









Proof:
http://www.overclock.net/t/1492889/yt-phanteks-enthoo-evolv/170#post_23043828



Now I am deciding which AIO to buy !


----------



## VulgarDisplay88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Khr1s*
> 
> May I join the club ? I have one of the first white evolv's sold in the world
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And I love it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Proof:
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1492889/yt-phanteks-enthoo-evolv/170#post_23043828
> 
> 
> 
> Now I am deciding which AIO to buy !


Don't see why you can't. It was your pictures that convinced me to buy it. I belive it was a week after you posted that I received the case and I haven't looked back. Planning to water cool in it soon.


----------



## Blackops_2

Don't guess i've ever uploaded these for some odd reason, but i need to sign up for the Phantek's club.


----------



## Dooderek

Coming over from the 760t club



















480 Monsta rad FTW!


----------



## Faster_is_better

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZombieEinstein*
> 
> I've read some reviews saying that the SE Primos have some coverage issues with with secondary paint colors - is this true?


I have seen 1 or 2 members post pics where the coverage was a little weak on their SE Primos, but I don't know how widespread the issue is. I think it was mostly in areas that you wouldn't notice anyway, like behind the motherboard or back of the mobo tray in tight areas.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Myloween*
> 
> Hi,
> I wonder what is the best airflow on Enthoo Primo with this configuration, can you help me ?
> I hesitate between several setups but if you have better idea, I'm open.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thank you very much.
> I will post some pictures of my setup and my tweaks once finished.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Personally I would and will in my own case use the bottom fans and front fans as intake, while I have the rear and top fans as exhaust. This means I can have a natural air flow that will give sufficient cooling to all the other components as well as decent air flow for the radiators in use (two 480mm rads).
Click to expand...

That is the airflow design I was planning to use as well, in my Primo with 2x 480s too. Although I may try intake on top/bottom and exhaust in front/back as well. My case sits right in front of a wall so the hot air blowing to the back wall stagnates and is easily sucked back in. If I can get a decent exhaust to the front then it would at least dissipate into the whole room a bit. Just some things I will play with on my own build when I get there.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dooderek*
> 
> Coming over from the 760t club
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 480 Monsta rad FTW!


A user above asked if SE editions have bad paint coverage on the accent color, does yours have that problem?


----------



## Dooderek

In regards to the paint issue, I have indeed heard of missing spots in regards to paint however mine does not have any of these issues. I have taken the majority of parts off, including unbolting the side cover and seeing if it was removable and everything is painted as should be.

My case looks like each individual part was painted prior to assembly.


----------



## emsj86

Any release date for white evolv atx?


----------



## ZombieEinstein

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Faster_is_better*
> 
> I have seen 1 or 2 members post pics where the coverage was a little weak on their SE Primos, but I don't know how widespread the issue is. I think it was mostly in areas that you wouldn't notice anyway, like behind the motherboard or back of the mobo tray in tight areas.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> That is the airflow design I was planning to use as well, in my Primo with 2x 480s too. Although I may try intake on top/bottom and exhaust in front/back as well. My case sits right in front of a wall so the hot air blowing to the back wall stagnates and is easily sucked back in. If I can get a decent exhaust to the front then it would at least dissipate into the whole room a bit. Just some things I will play with on my own build when I get there.
> 
> 
> A user above asked if SE editions have bad paint coverage on the accent color, does yours have that problem?


I don't have one (it is now in the mail). I just wanted to find out if it was an actual problem, or a few vindictive reviewers online, before dropping $250 on a case.


----------



## Onyxian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZombieEinstein*
> 
> I don't have one (it is now in the mail). I just wanted to find out if it was an actual problem, or a few vindictive reviewers online, before dropping $250 on a case.


Not sure if the SE are different but even my normal version has a few corners and in-between places where the black paint doesn't completely cover.


----------



## ZombieEinstein

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Onyxian*
> 
> Not sure if the SE are different but even my normal version has a few corners and in-between places where the black paint doesn't completely cover.


I'm hoping that it won't be an issue, the SE and standard versions receive completely different finishes case-wide.


----------



## Lyxchoklad

White Evolv mATX chassis arrived a day early.


----------



## PureBlackFire

*Enthoo Pro M - $79.99*




looks like a budget version of the Evolv ATX. they needed something in this range so good to see. one gripe though, the front has the same filter implimentation as the Pro where the filter mounts on the removable panel and there are vents that bypass it. that was a fail design and should have died. in fact I wouldn't be made at a Luxe/Pro revision with offest top mounts and a filter like the Evolv series, which this Pro M case should deffinitely have had.


----------



## Blackops_2

Like i said i love my pro. 99$, my first WC rig, excellent cable management, chassis configuration, etc. Phanteks just implemented a brilliant idea into practice and are putting the things out at competitive prices. The simple fact that much if not all the chassis is held together by screws and not rivets is awesome. Trying to find a way to get rid of my 800D so i can move to an Evolv ATX.


----------



## tsm106

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pierre3400*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *tsm106*
> 
> A 1600 would not handle the load I am pushing and frankly 1.3kw is on the edge of my comfort zone for a single rail anyways. And it is not cheaper lol. When on sale you can get a 1k/1.3k combo for 110+130 like recently with the BF deals. In retrospect, I should have went for the dual 1.3kw but oh well, I run tri more often than I do quads these days.
> 
> 
> 
> That just doesnt make sense.
> 
> The MSI 290 lightning pull 350w TDW as a peak, at stock clocks. So lets say your overclocking, and somehow managing to peak all 3 at once. 3x 400watts = 1200watts. With a 1600watt platinum PSU, that still leaves 400watts for the rest of the system, and unless you get a peltior in there, *theres just no way your pulling 400watts from the rest of the system, i would really love to see your maths on this since you feel like 2300watts isnt enough?*
> 
> Prosesor: Intel Core i7-4930K ( 6 Core / 12 Thread), Ivy Bridge-E
> Motherboard: ASUS Rampage IV Black Edition
> RAM: Corsair Vengeance DDR3-2133C9 4x4GB Kit
> VGA: 4x MSI Radeon R9 290X 4GB (reference design), Uber Mode
> SSD: Kingston HyperX 3K
> CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-C14
> 
> [CPU & RAM]
> 
> CPU Multiplier: 47x (Total Clock: 4700Mhz)
> DRAM Speed: 1200Mhz, DDR3-2400Mhz
> DRAM Timing(CL-tRCD-tRP-tRAS-CMD Rate) : 9-12-12-21 1T
> CPU VCore: 1.45 V
> CPU VccSA: 1.25V
> CPU VccIO: 1.25V
> DRAM Voltage: 1.85V
> [GPU]
> 
> (via MSI Afterburner)
> 
> GPU Voltage: +100mV (1.35V)
> Power Limit: Maxxed (50%)
> Fan Speed: Full speed, 100%
> Core Clock: 1150 - 1175 Mhz
> Video Memory Clock: 1500Mhz
> 
> *and heres a picture of the max watts pulled at the wall.* (Lepa P1700M)
> 
> 
> Please note that this is 4, not 3 290X.
Click to expand...

I was digging thru posts looking for something else when I saw your reply to me. Sorry, it's been a year, better late than never right?

There's a big gap between what you consider overclocking and pushing it and what I consider it to be. 3 or 4 cards, it doesn't matter.

Here's a test of power draw I did a while back. I only tested at 1250 but gave her +300mv to drive the point home. +300mv is about what it takes to get up to 1300mhz core.

http://www.3dmark.com/fs/3470060
http://www.3dmark.com/fs/3796854

http://www.overclock.net/t/1436497/official-amd-r9-290x-290-owners-club/33400_40#post_23296223

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tsm106*
> 
> People, PSU PSA. I find that most ppl don't actually overclock as much as they say. That doesn't mean their low numbers are the rule of thumb. You can run these cards in a manner that does not use up a lot of power, if you wanted to. On the flip side you can draw a helluvlot of power as well. Below is my dual psu setup. *On the first psu, a 1300 G2 which for this test runs a 3930K at 5ghz and two 290x at 1100/1400 stock voltage, and 1250/1600 +300 (more than needed but extra just in case). There is NOTHING ELSE CONNECTED! No drives, fans, nothing.* Second psu runs the other two 290x and all the accessories, pumps, 30 or so odd fans, etc etc.
> 
> 
> 
> Now the wattage at teh wall. It's not so bad 5ghz cpu etc. 923*87 = 803w converted.
> 
> 
> 
> Now lets see really overclocked, though actually its not that overclocked compared to what max OC is with is 1300/1700 for two.
> 
> 
> 
> Look at the temps after 5mins lol. Now for the martini shot.
> 
> 
> 
> Lmao. THis surprised me a bit because I hadn't actually run this specific test till now. 1537w at the wall lol. 1537*.87=1337w. I guess I am over running my psu.
> 
> Long story short, you COULD run these cards, rigs in similar low draw setups. And yet on the flipside you can also run them balls to the wall.
> 
> Thus how do you make a recommendation? For the low end only? That would mean you won't ever get to oc balls to the walls? Are you guys ok with that? Personally, I wouldn't be because I don't want to be limited in what I can do.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Thats a lot of jiggawatts


----------



## Sand3853

I really love my Evolv ITX.. had to cut it up a bit to get everything to fit right... but really happy with the results


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Not bad at all; like the color scheme even though not a Seahawks fan. My only criticisms are it's too bad that your CPU block has the ports totally aligned cause that tube off the right one is funk-ay. Also, a GPU block would be a huge plus to the build overall (and may well help with tube routing options and aesthetics).

Edit: could get a blue backplate for your card too maybe.


----------



## Sand3853

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> Not bad at all; like the color scheme even though not a Seahawks fan. My only criticisms are it's too bad that your CPU block has the ports totally aligned cause that tube off the right one is funk-ay. Also, a GPU block would be a huge plus to the build overall (and may well help with tube routing options and aesthetics).
> 
> Edit: could get a blue backplate for your card too maybe.


Aye, I totally agree... the tubing for the cpu is a bit funky. It was my first time with hardline tubing and some of the bends got a little tricky, right now I'm going to let it be while I save up the funds for a gpu block, and wait for the nickel EK block to be in stock... Also, for the gpu blackplate... Something like this?


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Oh yeah; is that already blue? Pic is a little dark. I noticed maybe you could used some more blue once the air cooler is gone (though it just has that one line on the side) plus I know blue backplates are relatively common at least as compared to green and grey. Though you also paint it yourself and/or customize further towards your theme. But maybe this part is already mostly done, after all.


----------



## Sand3853

Yeah, the lighting in the pic isn't the greatest, plus the Blue is one of those shades that makes it tough to see right. The backplate is one of the EVGA aluminum plates and I painted it Colonial Blue (Krylon). The Radiators, and Fan Blades are all painted to match. It is really hard to see, but the blue of the ASRock board and EVGA Air Cooler Shroud, and the blue of the backplate/rads/fan blades are the 2 shades of blue that are in my sleeving...which is also the 2 shades of blue found on the Seahawks alternate Jersey.. which is where I got inspiration for the color scheme









Anyways, here is a better shot of the backplate color...


----------



## Reaper28

@Sand3853 , painted Vardar's?


----------



## Sand3853

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Reaper28*
> 
> @Sand3853 , painted Vardar's?


Yup, gray frames and blue blades... I'll see if I can find/take some better pics of the fans

here we go..


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Ah, well, then. That backplate looks fan-freakin-tastic. I might use that same color for mine now.


----------



## Sand3853

its a great color, and went on really nice an easy.


----------



## rfarmer

Awesome build Sand3853 and Seahawks FTW!!


----------



## Sand3853

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rfarmer*
> 
> Awesome build Sand3853 and Seahawks FTW!!


Thanks! Go Hawks!


----------



## tsm106

^^Check your white balance and light sources. You colors change dramatically from shot to shot it looks like.


----------



## sav4

@ sand nice build ?


----------



## Sand3853

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tsm106*
> 
> ^^Check your white balance and light sources. You colors change dramatically from shot to shot it looks like.


Yeah, sadly im stuck with a cell phone for a camera, the Samsung 6 I have is decent, but it doesnt offer a ton in the way of options. My next big purchase is to get a quality dlsr and some photobooth equipment. As it stands, im at the mercy of natural light and what little editing is available for me.


----------



## By-Tor

My Primo build is now complete and more pictures are in my small build thread.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1557043/my-phanteks-enthoo-primo-build#post_23992577

Here are a couple of small mods that I did, but nothing out of this world..

I liked the black plate that covers the end connections of the MB and wanted to keep it, but the video card wouldn't fit with it installed. So I notched it out so I could have both together.




I have been holding onto a couple of these that I purchased from Danger Den awhile back and thought this would be a good use for it now.




I purchased an Aquacomputer Aqualis DDC Reservoir for my MCP355 Swiftech pump, but after some testing I couldn't use it the way I wanted due to all the bubbles from the return line that was splashing into the res. I looked at a couple of EK res. of the same style and noticed a tube sticking down from the top connection so it could be used in that way. I still had a couple of old Swiftech 1/2" poly barbs in a box and after some work with a razor blade It could tread right into the bottom side of the top res. cover and thus no more splashing and causing a lot of bubbles.

It's not the best looking thing in the world, but it works like it was made for it.


----------



## iMikeTheKing

Would it be possible with the Enthoo Primo to mod the case so that in the empty space, between the bottom of the case the the motherboard tray, that a reservoir could be mounted?


----------



## wjturner78

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iMikeTheKing*
> 
> Would it be possible with the Enthoo Primo to mod the case so that in the empty space, between the bottom of the case the the motherboard tray, that a reservoir could be mounted?


anything is possible....

check this primo out


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## tainle

Quote:


> The 12v SATA power cable can not be used to power the PWM hub if connecting to these types of 4-pin connectors, due to the interference with the RPM regulation by voltage (resulting in the fans running on full RPM). The PWM hub will draw it's power from the 4-pin connector, which is limited to a total device consuming 30W in total.


so what power cable from the psu that i can use to power the hub on the case?


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tainle*
> 
> so what power cable from the psu that i can use to power the hub on the case?


The SATA power cable. The post you quoted is incorrect.


----------



## Dooderek

Finished!

Surprisingly happy as I did not know the SE edition's case led color also matched the interior. Saved me some soldering.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> The SATA power cable. The post you quoted is incorrect.


Uh I am pretty sure that "post" is from _the manual_. I just find it difficult to discern which is preferred power source given the way the whole statement is worded. I guess SATA is better if you need +30W total and/or no PWM functionality.

Edit: Oh and if I use SATA instead of the 4-pin can I put another fan on those free pins for a total of eight? I assume so but never seen mentioned anywhere


----------



## wjturner78

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dooderek*
> 
> Finished!
> 
> Surprisingly happy as I did not know the SE edition's case led color also matched the interior. Saved me some soldering.


looks good, you can swap the door opening relatively easily if wanted


----------



## wjturner78

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *By-Tor*
> 
> My Primo build is now complete and more pictures are in my small build thread.
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1557043/my-phanteks-enthoo-primo-build#post_23992577
> 
> Here are a couple of small mods that I did, but nothing out of this world..
> 
> I liked the black plate that covers the end connections of the MB and wanted to keep it, but the video card wouldn't fit with it installed. So I notched it out so I could have both together.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have been holding onto a couple of these that I purchased from Danger Den awhile back and thought this would be a good use for it now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I purchased an Aquacomputer Aqualis DDC Reservoir for my MCP355 Swiftech pump, but after some testing I couldn't use it the way I wanted due to all the bubbles from the return line that was splashing into the res. I looked at a couple of EK res. of the same style and noticed a tube sticking down from the top connection so it could be used in that way. I still had a couple of old Swiftech 1/2" poly barbs in a box and after some work with a razor blade It could tread right into the bottom side of the top res. cover and thus no more splashing and causing a lot of bubbles.
> 
> It's not the best looking thing in the world, but it works like it was made for it.


you made it work and it looks good


----------



## By-Tor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wjturner78*
> 
> you made it work and it looks good


Thanks!!! I'm very happy with the build. I decided at the last minute not to use the 240mm rad. on the back side of the case..


----------



## wjturner78

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *By-Tor*
> 
> Thanks!!! I'm very happy with the build. I decided at the last minute not to use the 240mm rad. on the back side of the case..


Good call, I've never been a fan of things mounted outside of the case. I like to keep everything internal except maybe a chiller....


----------



## By-Tor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wjturner78*
> 
> Good call, I've never been a fan of things mounted outside of the case. I like to keep everything internal except maybe a chiller....


It was going to be inside the case mounted to the rad. mount that came in the assy. box. But I just ended up mounting 2 of the stock Phanteks 140mm fans that came with the case to the side panel.

Both of the 360mm rads. are blowing out of the case, with the 2 front and 2 side fans sucking outside air in. Since the entire back of the case is perforated with holes it will allow air to be pulled into the case as needed by the rad. fans. I also removed both of the bottom filters, since the air wasn't being pulled into the case through those 2 filters.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> Uh I am pretty sure that "post" is from _the manual_. I just find it difficult to discern which is preferred power source given the way the whole statement is worded. I guess SATA is better if you need +30W total and/or no PWM functionality.
> 
> Edit: Oh and if I use SATA instead of the 4-pin can I put another fan on those free pins for a total of eight? I assume so but never seen mentioned anywhere


Why yes it is from the manual. But, there was a little piece of information left out here - those instructions are specified if you are connecting the PWM Hub to a fan header that is *not* PWM. Essentially, that allows the hub to be used as a simple splitter. They do not apply if you are using it as a PWM Hub.



And are you asking of you can connect fans to the _input_ of the PWM hub? If so, the answer is no.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Thx +rep


----------



## By-Tor

I have the fan hub powered by the supplied SATA power connector and just went ahead and plugged one of my PWM fans into the PWM header on the hub and now I can plug any 3 or 4 pin connector into any of the remaining 3 pin headers on the hub to power any fan in my case.

Nothing from the hub is connected to the motherboard and the connected fan just run flat out 24/7.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *By-Tor*
> 
> I have the fan hub powered by the supplied SATA power connector and just went ahead and plugged one of my PWM fans into the PWM header on the hub and now I can plug any 3 or 4 pin connector into any of the remaining 3 pin headers on the hub to power any fan in my case.
> 
> Nothing from the hub is connected to the motherboard and the connected fan just run flat out 24/7.


That would make sense. A PWM device that is not receiving a PWM signal will run at 100%. So, the PWM hub not seeing a PWM signal will set the fans to 100%.


----------



## tsm106

That hub was the first thing I pulled from the case.


----------



## By-Tor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> That would make sense. A PWM device that is not receiving a PWM signal will run at 100%. So, the PWM hub not seeing a PWM signal will set the fans to 100%.


Yes and it works great... Also saves from having to purchase another hub and or splitter cables..

For the hub to work at all you have to have a PWM device plugged into the 4 pin header.


----------



## Faster_is_better

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *By-Tor*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> My Primo build is now complete and more pictures are in my small build thread.
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1557043/my-phanteks-enthoo-primo-build#post_23992577
> 
> Here are a couple of small mods that I did, but nothing out of this world..
> 
> I liked the black plate that covers the end connections of the MB and wanted to keep it, but the video card wouldn't fit with it installed. So I notched it out so I could have both together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have been holding onto a couple of these that I purchased from Danger Den awhile back and thought this would be a good use for it now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I purchased an Aquacomputer Aqualis DDC Reservoir for my MCP355 Swiftech pump, but after some testing I couldn't use it the way I wanted due to all the bubbles from the return line that was splashing into the res. I looked at a couple of EK res. of the same style and noticed a tube sticking down from the top connection so it could be used in that way. I still had a couple of old Swiftech 1/2" poly barbs in a box and after some work with a razor blade It could tread right into the bottom side of the top res. cover and thus no more splashing and causing a lot of bubbles.
> 
> It's not the best looking thing in the world, but it works like it was made for it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


What size tubing is that? Dang now I really wish I would have got the SE version. Newegg got the new colored SE versions in stock literally like 3 days after I ordered mine too. Looks good!


----------



## By-Tor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Faster_is_better*
> 
> What size tubing is that? Dang now I really wish I would have got the SE version. Newegg got the new colored SE versions in stock literally like 3 days after I ordered mine too. Looks good!


I have been using 7/16" x 5/8" tubing for about 8 years and mainly due to back in the 1/2" barb days to get a much tighter fit.

I like the XSPC Flex tubing and have had no issues with it over the years..

TY


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Why yes it is from the manual. But, there was a little piece of information left out here - those instructions are specified if you are connecting the PWM Hub to a fan header that is *not* PWM. Essentially, that allows the hub to be used as a simple splitter. They do not apply if you are using it as a PWM Hub.
> 
> 
> 
> And are you asking of you can connect fans to the _input_ of the PWM hub? If so, the answer is no.


One quick clarification to this.

IMHO Phanteks had their head where the sun never shines when they named the hub a "Phanteks PWM Fan Hub"
The Phanteks PWM Fan Hub is not a PWM hub.
It is a _PWM controlled 3-pin hub_ for variable voltage fans.

Not even close to being a "PWM hub"
A "PWM hub" splits PWM signal to more than one PWM fans.
The Phanteks PWM _Controlled_ Hub on a PWM header uses the PWM signal to regulate the power going to variable voltge fans. When it is used on a 3-pin variable voltage header it is as ciarlatano said; just a 3-pin fan splitter hub.

Naming it as they was totally stupid .. and gives many people the wrong idea of what it is, what it can do, and how it works.


----------



## Faster_is_better

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *By-Tor*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Faster_is_better*
> 
> What size tubing is that? Dang now I really wish I would have got the SE version. Newegg got the new colored SE versions in stock literally like 3 days after I ordered mine too. Looks good!
> 
> 
> 
> I have been using 7/16" x 5/8" tubing for about 8 years and mainly due to back in the 1/2" barb days to get a much tighter fit.
> 
> I like the XSPC Flex tubing and have had no issues with it over the years..
> 
> TY
Click to expand...

I thought it looked a bit smaller than 3/4" OD
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> One quick clarification to this.
> 
> IMHO Phanteks had their head where the sun never shines when they named the hub a "Phanteks PWM Fan Hub"
> The Phanteks PWM Fan Hub is not a PWM hub.
> It is a _PWM controlled 3-pin hub_ for variable voltage fans.
> 
> Not even close to being a "PWM hub"
> A "PWM hub" splits PWM signal to more than one PWM fans.
> The Phanteks PWM _Controlled_ Hub on a PWM header uses the PWM signal to regulate the power going to variable voltge fans. When it is used on a 3-pin variable voltage header it is as ciarlatano said; just a 3-pin fan splitter hub.
> 
> Naming it as they was totally stupid .. and gives many people the wrong idea of what it is, what it can do, and how it works.


Perfect evidence of this terrible naming scheme is this thread, where probably 60%+ of posts on here is about this hub lol.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *By-Tor*
> 
> Yes and it works great... Also saves from having to purchase another hub and or splitter cables..
> 
> For the hub to work at all you have to have a PWM device plugged into the 4 pin header.


I never thought of plugging a PWM fan into the PWM input. You are using it in a way it was not designed to be used.
I have no idea how the PCB and components will perform long tern with the PWM input being used as an power output. It might not be a problem, but I wouldn't advise doing it.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Faster_is_better*
> 
> Perfect evidence of this terrible naming scheme is this thread, where probably 60%+ of posts on here is about this hub lol.


If I've said it once I've saidit a million times. Only 59% of posts are about it.


----------



## wjturner78

this pic is "Killin it" on facebook so I thought I'll post it here


----------



## By-Tor

Wow very nice... Thanks for posting it..


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> I never thought of plugging *a PWM fan into the PWM input*. You are using it in a way it was not designed to be used.
> I have no idea how the PCB and components will perform long tern with the PWM input being used as an power output. It might not be a problem, but I wouldn't advise doing it.


Can I get a clarification that this is fact what By-Tor is doing cause I thought ciarlatano just told me I could not do that. Not that I will use it that way but would be nice to know.

FWIW, right now I just have it plugged into the main 4-pin CPU header only and then a few fans and they get power that way. The documentation seems to imply SATA power is needed for any power at all to the fans. Unless I am just interpreting it wrong now in that way (fully possible). Yeah its not just the naming choice that kind of sucks. I wasn't going to use it either but it made sense from a cable management standpoint (many rad fans).


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wjturner78*
> 
> 
> this pic is "Killin it" on facebook so I thought I'll post it here


Looking good there







It's very... RED


----------



## By-Tor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> Can I get a clarification that this is fact what By-Tor is doing cause I thought ciarlatano just told me I could not do that. Not that I will use it that way but would be nice to know.
> 
> FWIW, right now I just have it plugged into the main 4-pin CPU header only and then a few fans and they get power that way. The documentation seems to imply SATA power is needed for any power at all to the fans. Unless I am just interpreting it wrong now in that way (fully possible). Yeah its not just the naming choice that kind of sucks. I wasn't going to use it either but it made sense from a cable management standpoint (many rad fans).


I emailed Phanteks and asked if the way I'm using the hub could cause any problems or dangerous in any way.

I'll post a reply when I hear back from them.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> Can I get a clarification that this is fact what By-Tor is doing cause I thought ciarlatano just told me I could not do that. Not that I will use it that way but would be nice to know.
> 
> FWIW, right now I just have it plugged into the main 4-pin CPU header only and then a few fans and they get power that way. The documentation seems to imply SATA power is needed for any power at all to the fans. Unless I am just interpreting it wrong now in that way (fully possible). Yeah its not just the naming choice that kind of sucks. I wasn't going to use it either but it made sense from a cable management standpoint (many rad fans).


The hub can be used with or without auxiliary power. The SATA connection supplies 12v power to hub and motherboard adjusts this using the PWM signal to adjust this as the power pin on each fan heade to control their speed.rb. If no PWM signal is present the hub does not work properly with fans running at full speed on 12v power .. or not at all.

If the hub is plugged into a variable voltage fan header with no SATA power the fans will be voltage controlled by the motherboard power and variable voltage. If used this way be careful to not overload the the fan header by running too many fans. Most motherboard fan headers can only supply about 1 amp maximum.


----------



## By-Tor

Without the PWM fan I have connected my hub does not power the fans connected to it.


----------



## wjturner78

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *By-Tor*
> 
> Wow very nice... Thanks for posting it..


thanks, itll look alot better when i turn the lights on
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> Looking good there
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's very... RED


lol yes its "bloody red" for sure


----------



## wjturner78

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> If I've said it once I've saidit a million times. Only 59% of posts are about it.


i wish ocn added a feature so you could "filter" certain things out of a thread..... the pwm hub would be on the top of my list for that!!!









it has brought some useful pwm discussions up though


----------



## Onyxian

I'm ditching that thing all together for a Silverstone CPF04.


----------



## toggLesss

looking for a new family.









*//BUILD*

Intel i7-4790k
MSi Z97 Gaming 7
MSi GTX 970
16gb Mushkin Enhanced Redline

*//CUSTOM WATER LOOP*

XSPC Raystorm CPU Block
XSPC EX360 Rad
Corsair SP120s
Primochill Tubing
EK fittings
Bitspower Z-Multi 250 v2
Koolance PMP-450
Distilled w/ PT Nuke

*//BLING*

Silverstone Tek Sleeved Extensions (EPS12V, PCI-E, 24 Pin)
NZXT LED Strip

*Photos:*







_*leak testing*_




_//UPGRADED FROM THE XSPC PHOTON 270 TO THE BITSPOWER RES_


----------



## Reaper28

Out of curiosity does anybody know if you contact Phanteks if they would sell a new front panel for the Luxe? not an RMA request just wanting another one


----------



## Faster_is_better

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *toggLesss*
> 
> looking for a new family.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *//BUILD*
> 
> Intel i7-4790k
> MSi Z97 Gaming 7
> MSi GTX 970
> 16gb Mushkin Enhanced Redline
> 
> *//CUSTOM WATER LOOP*
> 
> XSPC Raystorm CPU Block
> XSPC EX360 Rad
> Corsair SP120s
> Primochill Tubing
> EK fittings
> Bitspower Z-Multi 250 v2
> Koolance PMP-450
> Distilled w/ PT Nuke
> 
> *//BLING*
> 
> Silverstone Tek Sleeved Extensions (EPS12V, PCI-E, 24 Pin)
> NZXT LED Strip
> 
> *Photos:*
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> _*leak testing*_
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> _//UPGRADED FROM THE XSPC PHOTON 270 TO THE BITSPOWER RES_


Welcome! Nice, I liked your tubing runs and Photon res setup better though









Is there a way you can measure the Bitspower tank clamps for me? I need to know how much distance they add from the mounting surface to the edge of the tank. If you can that would be cool


----------



## By-Tor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Reaper28*
> 
> Out of curiosity does anybody know if you contact Phanteks if they would sell a new front panel for the Luxe? not an RMA request just wanting another one


Drop them an email and ask. Everytime I have contacted them with a question I get a fast response.

This is the response from Phanteks about the use of the fan hub.

"The 4-pin connecter on the PWM hub is for input. You should not connect a fan to this port. This 4-pin connecter needs to be connected to the motherboard for the PWM hub to function properly."

I have already removed mine and connected all my fans to the PSU for power..


----------



## MrPatate

Question about the LED strip for the Luxe.

I know a lot of you had issue because the glue on the 1M or 2M strips isn't strong enough to hold it in place. What did you use to finally get it to stick in place?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Onyxian*
> 
> I'm ditching that thing all together for a Silverstone CPF04.


That's what I want to do, but everywhere I can find it the shipping is equal or higher than the price of the device itself


----------



## Onyxian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrPatate*
> 
> Question about the LED strip for the Luxe.
> 
> I know a lot of you had issue because the glue on the 1M or 2M strips isn't strong enough to hold it in place. What did you use to finally get it to stick in place?
> That's what I want to do, but everywhere I can find it the shipping is equal or higher than the price of the device itself


I got lucky with Amazon I guess, it seems to go out of stock pretty quickly. I won't be able to test it until I have my system up and running. It's cheaper than the Swiftech one I was looking at before, and I like that the connectors are at a 90 degree angles instead of straight up.


----------



## WHIMington

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Reaper28*
> 
> Out of curiosity does anybody know if you contact Phanteks if they would sell a new front panel for the Luxe? not an RMA request just wanting another one


Can you post the reply here as well? Kind of want to change the front panel from white to black.


----------



## StrongForce

Just to tell you guys I'm very happy with my Primo, this thing is awesome ! I currently have 8 14cm fans 4 in 4 out and my temps are fine, after hours of GTA the CPU reached 67 on the core.. which is close to the max still but I'm buying new thermal paste gelid extreme GC to try, I'm curious because I feel like my prolimatech pk3 is good at the beggining but after a few weeks/months it drys and performance worsen.. maybe I just failed to apply it but that would feel like alot of failing.

Here are some pics even if very basic because it's not really modded, just to show off







, and I sealed all air holes with chatterton I thought it would look good





I had this 14cm orange Phanteks fan as third fan on my cooler, I thought it would look cool at the bottom









Now I have an Antec on it which I think is not really that good as it's not a high pressure fan, and the 12cm on the right of the ND14 is an old coolermaster fan from my old case, I should really change these 2 to like Noctuas (I guess they're still the best choice right or ?) and I could see some temperature improvement.

Oh on the first picture the top isn't properly adjusted, my bad, it's fixed though don't worry







hadn't notice when taking the first day pictures


----------



## toggLesss

edge of the tank as in the GPU side edge? are you curious of how much clearance you will have between the gpu and res?

as for the photon, i feel like it added more character and life to the build as a whole, but my initial design layout was with a vertically mounted res, and when the photon wouldnt fit with the 970 stock cooler, i tested it for a couple of weeks horizontally & i could never get used to it for some reason. upon transitioning to the bitspower, i noticed that the led lighting of the BP was almost non existent, causing the res to basically disappear. sucks because i like my reservoirs to be the main focal point of the builds.

just one of those things where i sacrificed initial layout OCD over character and bling.


----------



## Reaper28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrPatate*
> 
> Question about the LED strip for the Luxe.
> 
> I know a lot of you had issue because the glue on the 1M or 2M strips isn't strong enough to hold it in place. What did you use to finally get it to stick in place?
> That's what I want to do, but everywhere I can find it the shipping is equal or higher than the price of the device itself


If you really want it to stick get some 3M tape (Home Depot, Lowes etc it's like $4) they also make a low tac tape where it won't destroy the paint if you decide to remove or relocate the LED strip


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Reaper28*
> 
> Out of curiosity does anybody know if you contact Phanteks if they would sell a new front panel for the Luxe? not an RMA request just wanting another one


Good question key me know what you find out. Awhile back I emailed the. Asking for another panel for my pro to do a window mod and they said yes for 14.99 usd. Recently I would say three weeks ago I asked to buy front and top panel for the luxe as the pro and luxe had the same chasis so i wanted to mod my pro into the luxe for more rad clearance. They never responded to me. Let me know how you fair


----------



## tsm106

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Reaper28*
> 
> Out of curiosity does anybody know if you contact Phanteks if they would sell a new front panel for the Luxe? not an RMA request just wanting another one
> 
> 
> 
> Good question key me know what you find out. Awhile back I emailed the. Asking for another panel for my pro to do a window mod and they said yes for 14.99 usd. Recently I would say three weeks ago I asked to buy front and top panel for the luxe as the pro and luxe had the same chasis so i wanted to mod my pro into the luxe for more rad clearance. They never responded to me. Let me know how you fair
Click to expand...

Replacement parts availability should be standard, or available thru their customer service. In my own experience I've purchased replacement parts from both Corsair and Silverstone without issue.


----------



## Reaper28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tsm106*
> 
> Replacement parts availability should be standard, or available thru their customer service. In my own experience I've purchased replacement parts from both Corsair and Silverstone without issue.


Corsair I've dealt with but then again they sell replacement parts to retailers anyways, I've talked to Fractal before and they seemed willing. I emailed Phanteks so I will have to wait and see


----------



## MrPatate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Reaper28*
> 
> If you really want it to stick get some 3M tape (Home Depot, Lowes etc it's like $4) they also make a low tac tape where it won't destroy the paint if you decide to remove or relocate the LED strip


Double sided tape I guess?
Isn't it what comes with the strip already? I might be wrong, but I remember someone here posting a picture of it with 3M branding under the LED strip.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrPatate*
> 
> Double sided tape I guess?
> Isn't it what comes with the strip already? I might be wrong, but I remember someone here posting a picture of it with 3M branding under the LED strip.


3m double sided tape is much stronger than the wannabe stiff they put on that strip...think of it as using super glue instead of elmers glue


----------



## MrPatate

Thanks!


----------



## Faster_is_better

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *toggLesss*
> 
> edge of the tank as in the GPU side edge? are you curious of how much clearance you will have between the gpu and res?
> 
> as for the photon, i feel like it added more character and life to the build as a whole, but my initial design layout was with a vertically mounted res, and when the photon wouldnt fit with the 970 stock cooler, i tested it for a couple of weeks horizontally & i could never get used to it for some reason. upon transitioning to the bitspower, i noticed that the led lighting of the BP was almost non existent, causing the res to basically disappear. sucks because i like my reservoirs to be the main focal point of the builds.
> 
> just one of those things where i sacrificed initial layout OCD over character and bling.


The measurement I want is actually just the height of the BP tank clamp itself. Like from where you have it mounted against a flat surface, to the edge of the tank. I expect it is like 6-8mm or something.

Added a pic for reference










Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Reaper28*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *tsm106*
> 
> Replacement parts availability should be standard, or available thru their customer service. In my own experience I've purchased replacement parts from both Corsair and Silverstone without issue.
> 
> 
> 
> Corsair I've dealt with but then again they sell replacement parts to retailers anyways, I've talked to Fractal before and they seemed willing. I emailed Phanteks so I will have to wait and see
Click to expand...

I emailed Phanteks about buying a replacement top panel for the Primo and they got back to me with a price quote, so I think they are open to selling extra parts.


----------



## emsj86

In gonna have to email them again and crack skulls to to get these panels. Lol jk but I would like to buy them


----------



## toggLesss

gotcha...

when i get to the house this afternoon, ill measure and report back...
i know it's very minimal. just not exact.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Faster_is_better*
> 
> I emailed Phanteks about buying a replacement top panel for the Primo and they got back to me with a price quote, so I think they are open to selling extra parts.


Seems Phanteks made a big deal about our being able to get buy case component parts if we needed to get any for mods or replacement.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Yeah the replacement parts thing is nice seeing as how I brokeded my front top swinging bay cover like an idiot.


----------



## Reaper28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrPatate*
> 
> Double sided tape I guess?
> Isn't it what comes with the strip already? I might be wrong, but I remember someone here posting a picture of it with 3M branding under the LED strip.


Pretty much, but like the other guy said it's much better you don't need much just a few squares to hold it up in place


----------



## Reaper28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Seems Phanteks made a big deal about our being able to get buy case component parts if we needed to get any for mods or replacement.


Let's hope that's true with most of the case being screwed together. I'm tempted to mod the front panel if I get a decent price


----------



## ZombieEinstein

Look at what just showed up a few minutes ago. Time to extract my rig from my HAF X.


----------



## Ramzinho

Again i want to show my Appreciation to Phanteks for their amazing cases for amazing prices. I'm a HUGE FAN. if they are ever available in egypt.. I"M BUYING ONE IN A HEART BEAT


----------



## tsm106

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramzinho*
> 
> Again i want to show my Appreciation to Phanteks for their amazing cases for amazing prices. I'm a HUGE FAN. if they are ever available in egypt.. I"M BUYING ONE IN A HEART BEAT


I totally concur. It's the easiest dual 480 rad and dual psu setup imo.


----------



## Faster_is_better

Would anyone be interested in doing this mod (open spoiler) with their Primo's? Basically replacing the bottom panel "mesh" with a open 480 fan grill design. I know someone who can make them, but it makes more sense to do a few at a time and sell them, than just a one off. Makes it more worth it for them.


----------



## By-Tor

That does look very nice...


----------



## WHIMington

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Faster_is_better*
> 
> I emailed Phanteks about buying a replacement top panel for the Primo and they got back to me with a price quote, so I think they are open to selling extra parts.


Good to know that, I will contact them to know if they are willing to sell me panel of different colours to make my own Luxe SE







on my next system alteration, now since the retail price of Titan X is lowered due to 980Ti release, I have to decide between the 2


----------



## emsj86

So does anyone know for sure tha. If the front and too panels of the luxe fit the pro. Meaning do they have the same plastic push in to secure bc there both the same chasis frame and seems no reason why it won't work and if so it would be great to just buy the too and front panel so I can get a larger rad for my top rad and push pull rather than buying a luxe which in that case I would just fork up and get the primo or evolv atx


----------



## Mark011

anyone knows how the enthoo primo fan hub works? I'm trying to use it on my evolv itx, i connected the sata cables, the 4 pin to cpu fan and the fans to the hub, but it can't read any speed, so fans are working at 12v full speed.... any tips?


----------



## wjturner78

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mark011*
> 
> anyone knows how the enthoo primo fan hub works? I'm trying to use it on my evolv itx, i connected the sata cables, the 4 pin to cpu fan and the fans to the hub, but it can't read any speed, so fans are working at 12v full speed.... any tips?


mark you have to have a header powerful enough to drive all the fans you wanna connect to the hub in order to get "full pwm" with the hub. If you connect external power to the hub itruns at full 12v, you could add a resistor to drop down to a lower voltage but if you want pwm the hub has to run off just the header connection it should send back rpm to mobo though if it doesn't remove the rpm lead from all but one of the fans on the "main" hub out port, also the main hub out port should not be split because of this rpm signal if more than 1 rpm signal is being read by the same header confusion occurs

I'll bet you split the main hub out port...


----------



## TMatzelle60

You could also get a NZXT Grid + and use there software thats what i am going to be doing i love it better then corsair link but grid + only lets you control all fans and no lower the 40% which is not bad since my fans are not loud at 100%


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mark011*
> 
> anyone knows how the enthoo primo fan hub works? I'm trying to use it on my evolv itx, i connected the sata cables, the 4 pin to cpu fan and the fans to the hub, but it can't read any speed, so fans are working at 12v full speed.... any tips?


Not another one. We do a PWM _controlled_ Hub for _3-pin variable voltage fans_ explanation at least twice a week.








The hub uses the PWM signal to regulate the power going to the 3-pin fans on the hub. If it is hooked to a none PWM header and not connected to PSU it can b e uses as a fan splitter .., simply splitting the power from header to all fans connected. This is fine as long as you do not overload the fan header with too many fans.
Motherboard fan headers can only monitor RPM of 1 fan on each motherboard fan header.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wjturner78*
> 
> mark you have to have a header powerful enough to drive all the fans you wanna connect to the hub in order to get *"full pwm"* with the hub. If you connect external power to the hub itruns at full 12v, you could add a resistor to drop down to a lower voltage but if you want pwm the hub has to run off just the header connection it should send back rpm to mobo though if it doesn't remove the rpm lead from all but one of the fans on the "main" hub out port, also the main hub out port should not be split because of this rpm signal if more than 1 rpm signal is being read by the same header confusion occurs
> I'll bet you split the main hub out port...


"Full PWM"??







What are you smoking?















"Full PWM" for 3-pin headers??















How in the name of all that is sacred do you get a PWM signal to a 3-pin fan??








And even if you did, 3-pin fan do not have any PWM control circuitry to use the signal with.















First off the "Phanteks PWM Hub" is not a PWM fan hub.
It is a PWM controlled hub that regulated the power to 3-pin fans.
Stupid Phanteks for naming PWM Fan Hub.








And my leg is tired from all the















I need a pint now.


----------



## Perfect_Chaos

Now that i've had my Luxe for a little while i'm starting to think i should have gotten the Primo, i'm not using watercooling atm as i have a NHD15 which does the job well. But if i want to go multi GPU & keep things quiet i am going to have to watercool, and the case won't have enough rad space right? Though i assume 1x 360 and 1x 240 rad would be fine for 1 GPU & CPU with low fan speed.


----------



## wjturner78

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Not another one. We do a PWM _controlled_ Hub for _3-pin variable voltage fans_ explanation at least twice a week.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The hub uses the PWM signal to regulate the power going to the 3-pin fans on the hub. If it is hooked to a none PWM header and not connected to PSU it can b e uses as a fan splitter .., simply splitting the power from header to all fans connected. This is fine as long as you do not overload the fan header with too many fans.
> Motherboard fan headers can only monitor RPM of 1 fan on each motherboard fan header.
> "Full PWM"??
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What are you smoking?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> "Full PWM" for 3-pin headers??
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> How in the name of all that is sacred do you get a PWM signal to a 3-pin fan??
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And even if you did, 3-pin fan do not have any PWM control circuitry to use the signal with.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First off the "Phanteks PWM Hub" is not a PWM fan hub.
> It is a PWM controlled hub that regulated the power to 3-pin fans.
> Stupid Phanteks for naming PWM Fan Hub.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And my leg is tired from all the
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I need a pint now.


gotta love this little thing, I know it'snot a pwm hub and that Iit uses a pwm signal to regulate voltage output in some sort of proportional relation to the pwm signal it is recieves. And yes 3 pin fans are + - and rpm signal, 4 pin fans adding the pwm wire, I was just trying to deliver enough "condensed" info to help solve his problem without adding another 4 pages of hub ddiscussion to the thread ; D I used the term in parentheses hoping people would realize i knew it wasnt a true pwm hub

Man my rump is sore from that one lol I hate the thing it literally kicks my but every time!!!!!


----------



## wjturner78

@doyll on the whole 3 pin 4 pin subject, I did something cool with my 3 pin ds fans. I hated that the led was on all the time so I repinned them all to 4 pin and am now controlling the led via a pwm signal, Iihad to resolder some modsmart boards and the fans to make Iit work


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Perfect_Chaos*
> 
> Now that i've had my Luxe for a little while i'm starting to think i should have gotten the Primo, i'm not using watercooling atm as i have a NHD15 which does the job well. But if i want to go multi GPU & keep things quiet i am going to have to watercool, and the case won't have enough rad space right? Though i assume 1x 360 and 1x 240 rad would be fine for 1 GPU & CPU with low fan speed.


. Handles two Gpus just fine on two rads. The picture is my enthoo pro so I had to go even thinner rads as the luxe has more room for thicker rads up to and my cards do t exceed 47 full oc usual stay at 40 in games and my 4790k 1.4v 4.8ghz full load (occt bench) is 75 hottest core


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wjturner78*
> 
> gotta love this little thing, I know it'snot a pwm hub and that Iit uses a pwm signal to regulate voltage output in some sort of proportional relation to the pwm signal it is recieves. And yes 3 pin fans are + - and rpm signal, 4 pin fans adding the pwm wire, I was just trying to deliver enough "condensed" info to help solve his problem without adding another 4 pages of hub ddiscussion to the thread ; D I used the term in parentheses hoping people would realize i knew it wasnt a true pwm hub
> 
> Man my rump is sore from that one lol I hate the thing it literally kicks my but every time!!!!!


Have another pint on me then















Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wjturner78*
> 
> @doyll on the whole 3 pin 4 pin subject, I did something cool with my 3 pin ds fans. I hated that the led was on all the time so I repinned them all to 4 pin and am now controlling the led via a pwm signal, Iihad to resolder some modsmart boards and the fans to make Iit work


I
Interesting ! Now have another pint.


----------



## Perfect_Chaos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> . Handles two Gpus just fine on two rads. The picture is my enthoo pro so I had to go even thinner rads as the luxe has more room for thicker rads up to and my cards do t exceed 47 full oc usual stay at 40 in games and my 4790k 1.4v 4.8ghz full load (occt bench) is 75 hottest core


Nice but what speed fans? Not under 1000rpm i guess?


----------



## wjturner78

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Have another pint on me then
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I
> Interesting ! Now have another pint.


between all this smoking and drinkingII'mnever gonna finish my build lol
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Have another pint on me then
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I
> Interesting ! Now have another pint.


geez doyll between all this smoking and drinking im never gonna finish my build in time for quakecon... lol









the aquaero has a pwm output connection and i wired this to the + side of the fans led's using the pwm slot on a 4 pin fan connector so now using the aq6 remote i can turn on and off my fan leds and even vary the brightness somewhat


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Perfect_Chaos*
> 
> Nice but what speed fans? Not under 1000rpm i guess?


In running sp120 fans all pwm. 700 idle temps. Max in game is 1200 rpms. Yea in order to get fans under 1000rpms all times more rads will be needed


----------



## wjturner78

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> In running sp120 fans all pwm. 700 idle temps. Max in game is 1200 rpms. Yea in order to get fans under 1000rpms all times more rads will be needed


your "rad" enough brother....


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> In running sp120 fans all pwm. 700 idle temps. Max in game is 1200 rpms. Yea in order to get fans under 1000rpms all times more rads will be needed


not sure how much space the Luxe has but the primo can handle a 140mm in the back as well as a 480mm in the top. I know it's a bit different when it comes to dimentions but if it can fit a 140mm or even a 120mm slim rad in the back then you should essentially have 240mm for each component, which again is plenty for two GPUs and a cpu. As for the fan speed... you will have to cherrypick fans for this to work, as some fans work great at 1000rpms while others need a bit higher to get the perfomrance you need. Something you may want to know is that my eloops are fairly silent above 1000rpm, altohugh i currently run them at 1000rpm simply becasue I can. The EK Vardar fans does seem to be the best at the perfomrance/noise ratio at the moment though so you may want to take a look at procuring some of those if you want to attempt this. They will also release 140mm ones in the next months which more or less spanks every other 140mm fan out there, so you could run the same fans on a 140mm in the back if you can fit it.

Anyways, as it is the 360mm and 240mm rads are going to be enough for the config that you want and you could always choose thicker rads to handle extra heat if you are worried (don't know what the luxe can handle but maybe a 86mm thick 240/280 rad in fornt?)


----------



## Perfect_Chaos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> In running sp120 fans all pwm. 700 idle temps. Max in game is 1200 rpms. Yea in order to get fans under 1000rpms all times more rads will be needed


Would there be any more room to fit another 240 or would that be the limit now? I guess there would be no space for a pump then.


----------



## By-Tor

Love this case!!


----------



## Dorito Bandit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *By-Tor*
> 
> Love this case!!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


You should! It's beautiful, bro!







Of course I'm a sucker for red & black builds! Must be the UGA Dawg in me.


----------



## By-Tor

Thank you.. I really liked the way it turned out...

GO BLUE!!!


----------



## wjturner78

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *By-Tor*
> 
> Love this case!!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


beauty!


----------



## By-Tor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wjturner78*
> 
> [/SPOILER]
> beauty!


Thank you

Small build log here.
http://www.overclock.net/t/1557043/my-phanteks-enthoo-primo-build#post_23992577


----------



## michael-ocn

Is there a non-windowed side panel for the Evolve ATX? It looks the left and right panels may be symmetrical, if so, a spare 'right' panel could be put on the left side.

Thnx


----------



## wjturner78

paint needs touching up and clear coat


----------



## By-Tor

Nice work WJ.... You put a lot of work into that...


----------



## wjturner78

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *By-Tor*
> 
> Nice work WJ.... You put a lot of work into that...


thanks, im hopefully entering it into the us case mod championships at quakecon in july, thats why ive put so much into cosmetics


----------



## Mark011

Some pics of my evolv itx build, i need to mount the wc loop and it will be finished, Thanks for the info about the pwm hub, i will make a try tomorrow with it


----------



## rfarmer

Mark011 that is a nice, clean looking Evolv-ITX. Great job.


----------



## By-Tor

Mark011 that's sweet....

Haven't been to Naples since the 80's... Always a good time..


----------



## johnnyw

Few poor quality pics of my Mini XL rig


----------



## dreameer111

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *johnnyw*
> 
> Few poor quality pics of my Mini XL rig


Nice mini xl, thinking about getting one myself.

Are you able to take a picture with the motherboard side panel off? I'm curious what cable management is like in that case with that kind of system installed.

Is that a 60mm rad in the top? have you thought about adding more radiators?

What are your general thoughts on the case? anything you don't like about it?


----------



## johnnyw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dreameer111*
> 
> Nice mini xl, thinking about getting one myself.
> 
> Are you able to take a picture with the motherboard side panel off? I'm curious what cable management is like in that case with that kind of system installed.
> 
> Is that a 60mm rad in the top? have you thought about adding more radiators?
> 
> What are your general thoughts on the case? anything you don't like about it?


Well its not very representive on the backside at the moment, to be honest its complete mess. I still have to change/add some things next week ( another SSD & fan controller) so there was no point to tie everything now & then redo it again next week.



As you see zero effort to cable management yet







But its possible to make it really clean and tidy.

I have Alphacool 360 UT60 at top + 240 ST30 at side mount. I dont think will be adding more rads if my hardware dont change ( adding another gpu etc )
as temps are totally fine with current setup. Getting like low 50:s for cpu ( 4.6GHz 1.27v) & mid/high 30:s for GPU after hours of gaming. Overall would say the case is great, not much to complain. Well if you need to find something the paintjob isnt too thick, allready managed to get some scratches.


----------



## doyll

@Mark011
Very nicely done!
How did you do the lettering and logos, paint of vinyl overlays?

@johnnyw
Nice clean build!


----------



## dreameer111

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *johnnyw*
> 
> Well its not very representive on the backside at the moment, to be honest its complete mess. I still have to change/add some things next week ( another SSD & fan controller) so there was no point to tie everything now & then redo it again next week.
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/2481312/width/350/height/700
> 
> As you see zero effort to cable management yet
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But its possible to make it really clean and tidy.
> 
> I have Alphacool 360 UT60 at top + 240 ST30 at side mount. I dont think will be adding more rads if my hardware dont change ( adding another gpu etc )
> as temps are totally fine with current setup. Getting like low 50:s for cpu ( 4.6GHz 1.27v) & mid/high 30:s for GPU after hours of gaming. Overall would say the case is great, not much to complain. Well if you need to find something the paintjob isnt too thick, allready managed to get some scratches.


Thanks for the pic. If I do get the case, I plan on using a 3.5" hard drive on the side, so I'm just trying to figure out if I'll have enough room for all the cables in the back


----------



## rfarmer

Overclock3D did a glowing review of the Evol-matx.

http://www.overclock3d.net/reviews/cases_cooling/phanteks_enthoo_evolv_matx_case_review/1

They seemed quite impressed.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PureBlackFire*
> 
> nice. same price as the Luxe and all aluminum panels. interesting. one thing I'd like to see different is hard drive mounting. this case lets you do like the H440 with the hard drives, but I'd like to see them use the space behind the rear panel for 3.5" mounting. it should be pretty easy to do anyway.


Two 3.5" drives fit easily into the space opposite the reservoir holder. You would need to drill out mounting holes for them. They fit in a way that it appears the space was designed to do this...but the mounting holes aren't there.


----------



## maddnotez

Enthoo Pro owners, how do we get slightly positive air pressure with our fan options?

I just got a 4 pack of the 140mm SP LEDs. I put 3 up top for exhuast and 1 on bottom for intake. I've noticed good gains but I have a good amount of Negative pressure I believe and I've read that its best to have slightly positive pressure.

I could get 2x120mm for the bottom and replace the 200mm in front with 2x140mm to use all the slots but wouldn't that still be negative pressure?


----------



## Faster_is_better

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wjturner78*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *By-Tor*
> 
> Nice work WJ.... You put a lot of work into that...
> 
> 
> 
> thanks, im hopefully entering it into the us case mod championships at quakecon in july, thats why ive put so much into cosmetics
Click to expand...

Yep, lots of work on that case that looks great. I expect you will be profiled in a tech magazine or featured contender on a website somewhere with that rig.


----------



## wjturner78

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Faster_is_better*
> 
> Yep, lots of work on that case that looks great. I expect you will be profiled in a tech magazine or featured contender on a website somewhere with that rig.


Thanks so much for the kind words, they are greatly appreciated


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Two 3.5" drives fit easily into the space opposite the reservoir holder. You would need to drill out mounting holes for them. They fit in a way that it appears the space was designed to do this...but the mounting holes aren't there.


so it's like how you can mount a 140mm fan in the front-bottom position in the Luxe but two holes for fans are missing. nice to know.


----------



## EdTheHead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *maddnotez*
> 
> Enthoo Pro owners, how do we get slightly positive air pressure with our fan options?
> 
> I just got a 4 pack of the 140mm SP LEDs. I put 3 up top for exhuast and 1 on bottom for intake. I've noticed good gains but I have a good amount of Negative pressure I believe and I've read that its best to have slightly positive pressure.
> 
> I could get 2x120mm for the bottom and replace the 200mm in front with 2x140mm to use all the slots but wouldn't that still be negative pressure?


I am running 2x140mm's for exhaust, 2x140mm's for front intake and 1x120mm for bottom intake.


----------



## doyll

Was looking at scaled images of Enthoo Evolv series. Never realized how much difference there is in sizes just reading the numbers.







!


----------



## wjturner78

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Was looking at scaled images of Enthoo Evolv series. Never realized how much difference there is in sizes just reading the numbers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> !


Where did you see those numbers?
I'm debating between a minixl or an atx evolve for my next build


----------



## Jonas75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *maddnotez*
> 
> Enthoo Pro owners, how do we get slightly positive air pressure with our fan options?
> 
> I just got a 4 pack of the 140mm SP LEDs. I put 3 up top for exhuast and 1 on bottom for intake. I've noticed good gains but I have a good amount of Negative pressure I believe and I've read that its best to have slightly positive pressure.
> 
> I could get 2x120mm for the bottom and replace the 200mm in front with 2x140mm to use all the slots but wouldn't that still be negative pressure?


I run two Phobya Nano-G14 PWM in the front(set rather high), One Enermax T.B.Silence 140mm PWM in the rear(set as low as AI suite allows), three Alphacool NB-Eloop Bionic 1300rpm on the rad in the top.

I've ordered another RAD, also an Alphacool XT45(as in the top rad) but a 240 and two Enermax Twister Magma (UCMA12) that will be monted under the 240Rad at the bottom of the case.

So: 2x120 intake in the bottom, 2x140 intake in the front, 1x140 exhaust in the rear and 3x120 exhaust in the top.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wjturner78*
> 
> Where did you see those numbers?
> I'm debating between a minixl or an atx evolve for my next build


I would like to mod a Mini-XL into a Mini-ATX. Size wise it looks the same size as Luxe / Pro back and motherboard panels. If that is true, a damaged Luxe or Pro would supply needed panels to mod the Mini - XL into a MIni - ATX


----------



## wjturner78

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> I would like to mod a Mini-XL into a Mini-ATX. Size wise it looks the same size as Luxe / Pro back and motherboard panels. If that is true, a damaged Luxe or Pro would supply needed panels to mod the Mini - XL into a MIni - ATX


interesting idea I wonder if it could be pulled off


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wjturner78*
> 
> interesting idea I wonder if it could be pulled off


Would need both cases to measure and see. So far it looks do-able.


----------



## Dorito Bandit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Would need both cases to measure and see. So far it looks do-able.


Talk is cheap, man! You can do it! We'll even all be here to provide you with moral support along the way. Now go get on it!









By the way, I'm still waiting to see someone post pics of a black Enthoo Pro with the front and top from a white Enthoo Pro, or vice versa . Surely someone owns both the black and white versions and could switch the parts out to show us all how this looks. I could Photoshop it, but would prefer to see the real thing.


----------



## maddnotez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EdTheHead*
> 
> I am running 2x140mm's for exhaust, 2x140mm's for front intake and 1x120mm for bottom intake.


What locations for exhaust? One rear and one top?


----------



## TMatzelle60

Since My build won't be done till end of july i have all the parts i need like fans and case and all but not the important guts. I took out the Evolv ITX and i must say that its really beautiful small case. Well made.

The power button is amazing and feels really nice when you depress it Great quality


----------



## EdTheHead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *maddnotez*
> 
> What locations for exhaust? One rear and one top?


Yes


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Would need both cases to measure and see. So far it looks do-able.


I plan in h to get a new case soon either caselabs or evolv atx. I have the pro now and if needed I d give it to you if you have and to do the xl mini mod to atx. Provided shipping paid.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> I plan in h to get a new case soon either caselabs or evolv atx. I have the pro now and if needed I d give it to you if you have and to do the xl mini mod to atx. Provided shipping paid.


Sadly, shipping from USA to UK would cost as much as a new case.


----------



## Reaper28

Still no response from Phanteks about the Luxe front panel, I'm taking that as a no to buying one? I'll email them tomorrow again and see what they say


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Sadly, shipping from USA to UK would cost as much as a new case.


Well if I get a new case. I can ways break Down the pro and send only what is needed to keep it down even though idk if that would be enough as shipping over seas is not cheap no matter how small.


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Reaper28*
> 
> Still no response from Phanteks about the Luxe front panel, I'm taking that as a no to buying one? I'll email them tomorrow again and see what they say


Yea I emailed them again this time stating it was for a build log hopefully they respond as what I hope to do will in my eyes only make more people want a phanteks case


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Well if I get a new case. I can ways break Down the pro and send only what is needed to keep it down even though idk if that would be enough as shipping over seas is not cheap no matter how small.


I really do appreciate it. I have family in USA so might be able to figure out something paying to get it to one of them that I will be visiting or will be coming over here.


----------



## Faster_is_better

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Reaper28*
> 
> Still no response from Phanteks about the Luxe front panel, I'm taking that as a no to buying one? I'll email them tomorrow again and see what they say


I wouldn't necessarily take a "no response" as a "no", if you emailed right before the weekend or during, they are probably catching up on responses today. Possibly they just missed it, I'd email again if its been like 4+ business days.


----------



## michael-ocn

Where can you buy the Evolv ATX in the US, I see the mATX and ITX boxes here and there, but no ATX?


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *michael-ocn*
> 
> Where can you buy the Evolv ATX in the US, I see the mATX and ITX boxes here and there, but no ATX?


It should be available within the next week.


----------



## doyll

We need to keep in mind that Computex 2015 has taken lots of time and effort the last couple of weeks. I suspect there are some things that need to be caught up .. like customer service and back orders.


----------



## maskymus

Now I can officially join this club as my Primo build is complete.


Spoiler: teaser


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *maskymus*
> 
> Now I can officially join this club as my Primo build is complete.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: teaser


looks great.


----------



## GhettoFied

Anyone know if the 140mm fans that will ship with the Evolv ATX are any good?


----------



## arrow0309

Count me in too, with my new Enthoo Primo build (and new liquid cooling refresh)!













Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!











A nice improvement over my previous mid tower liquid solution









http://www.overclock.net/t/294838/the-cooler-master-690-club/19550#post_23250478


----------



## maskymus

*arrow0309*,
we have something similar but I went in a more crazy way


----------



## arrow0309

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *maskymus*
> 
> *arrow0309*,
> we have something similar but I went in a more crazy way
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I bet you did!
I remained however on a more humble and simpler system (with my old hardware)








And btw, I hate the classical "red & black" colour scheme









Leak test in progress, another 24 h to go (my two D5's at full speed have almost finished with the bleeding)


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GhettoFied*
> 
> Anyone know if the 140mm fans that will ship with the Evolv ATX are any good?


I'm gonna take a wild guess by looking it's the same 140SP fan that comes in all their cases, so yes, it's a good fan.


----------



## TMatzelle60

^ I looked at those paper towels and sad dam those are expensive


----------



## Faster_is_better

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *maskymus*
> 
> Now I can officially join this club as my Primo build is complete.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: teaser


Sweet, I'm going to check your build log now


----------



## Onyxian

Ah boo, well that's an oversight unless I'm doing things wrong. My Hardwarelabs SR1 420 won't fit on the top, too wide. From my measurements I'll need like a 146mm ish-max width rad to fit while the SR1/2 are 153 dang.


----------



## dreameer111

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *maskymus*
> 
> *arrow0309*,
> we have something similar but I went in a more crazy way


How is that drain valve working out for you? does the front panel still fit normally?


----------



## maskymus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dreameer111*
> 
> How is that drain valve working out for you? does the front panel still fit normally?


Drainage system is a must as I have rigid tubing. Valve works great as it's one the lowest point of water loop: if I open both ports on the top rad and open valve, then system gets almost all water out.
Front panel still fits normally, but I've modded it (refer to build log):


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## seithan

Got the Phanteks Luxe black here aswell.

Loving it!


----------



## aerial

I wish evolv matx had same big window as full atx version.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aerial*
> 
> I wish evolv matx had same big window as full atx version.


I can understand that with the beautiful builds you do. But some of us don't do such great work and don't want any windows.


----------



## aerial

Well it is clearly first version, got improved in atx evolv release.
I'm not against no window for quieter builds, but if there is window, large one looks way better.


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aerial*
> 
> Well it is clearly first version, got improved in atx evolv release.
> I'm not against no window for quieter builds, but if there is window, large one looks way better.


Agreed, if there is a window at all then a big one is always better. Although I prefer windows that simply cover the entire door, I cen see the downside by this so for me the sweetspot is windows that cover the entire side but stops directly over the PSU so it's easy to do cable management.

Anayways, really wondering if I should just replace the side door in the Primo with a plexi sheet. Just love the looks of them







'
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *maskymus*
> 
> *arrow0309*,
> we have something similar but I went in a more crazy way
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Pic


I'm going to "borrow" that idea from you. I was really wondering about how to do my drain system, but it does seem to be just about enough space behind there for a ball valve, slim male/male connector and stop plug.


----------



## doyll

I wish they would make the side covers on each model interchangeable. Would make it so much easier to sell accessory side covers with or without windows.


----------



## Reaper28

I finally got a response from Phanteks (pic related) now that they're willing to sell me a front panel I'm curious if they would sell me a side panel to switch the plexi on it


http://i.imgur.com/SS1qKog.png


----------



## doyll

Just did a filter clean on my systems and I'm seeing red!








I want to ring the designers' / engineers' necks for making cases with filters sliding out the back of case. :








Anyone with half a brain cell knows better.
There is no logical reason we should need to pull the computer out from under desk, shelf, or turn it sideways on top of desk just to remove and clean a filter!!








... They are either brain dead or sadistic barstewards. Just because they have a miserable life don't give them any right to make life miserable for us.








Even side sliding filter are stupid, but not as bad as back sliding ones.


----------



## tsm106

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *maskymus*
> 
> *arrow0309*,
> we have something similar but I went in a more crazy way
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Pic
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm going to "borrow" that idea from you. I was really wondering about how to do my drain system, but it does seem to be just about enough space behind there for a ball valve, slim male/male connector and stop plug.
Click to expand...

Dude, I don't ever bother with a drain, they never work well anyways. I just open a QDC and drain from there.


----------



## michael-ocn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Reaper28*
> 
> I finally got a response from Phanteks (pic related) now that they're willing to sell me a front panel I'm curious if they would sell me a side panel to switch the plexi on it
> 
> 
> http://i.imgur.com/SS1qKog.png


Do you want two plexi side panels? I'd like a solid left panel for the evolv atx.

It looks like the left and right panels may be symmetrical except for the hinges which look removable/reversible. Maybe somebody with the case chime in on that? If they can be swapped from side to side, you probably could trade with somebody like me that wants two solid panels.


----------



## Reaper28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *michael-ocn*
> 
> Do you want two plexi side panels? I'd like a solid left panel for the evolv atx.
> 
> It looks like the left and right panels may be symmetrical except for the hinges which look removable/reversible. Maybe somebody with the case chime in on that? If they can be swapped from side to side, you probably could trade with somebody like me that wants two solid panels.


I would want the left side panel the one that has the plexi already installed, my quick thought is to dremel off the little clips holding the stock window in place and get some higher quality plexi or even tempered glass


----------



## tsm106

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Reaper28*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *michael-ocn*
> 
> Do you want two plexi side panels? I'd like a solid left panel for the evolv atx.
> 
> It looks like the left and right panels may be symmetrical except for the hinges which look removable/reversible. Maybe somebody with the case chime in on that? If they can be swapped from side to side, you probably could trade with somebody like me that wants two solid panels.
> 
> 
> 
> I would want the left side panel the one that has the plexi already installed, my quick thought is to dremel off the little clips holding the stock window in place and get some higher quality plexi or even tempered glass
Click to expand...

The doors on my primo are reversible.


----------



## wjturner78

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Reaper28*
> 
> I would want the left side panel the one that has the plexi already installed, my quick thought is to dremel off the little clips holding the stock window in place and get some higher quality plexi or even tempered glass


I did this it's easy you can also put plexi on the opposite side without an issue if you cut the plexi perfect it'll snap in and not need any mounting hardware


----------



## Reaper28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wjturner78*
> 
> I did this it's easy you can also put plexi on the opposite side without an issue if you cut the plexi perfect it'll snap in and not need any mounting hardware


Yeah pretty much what I'm thinking, after taking the entire front panel of the Luxe apart and seeing how it looked I'm starting to think about doing some modding.

@michael-ocn, I'm actually talking about the Luxe


----------



## Blackops_2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tsm106*
> 
> Dude, I don't ever bother with a drain, they never work well anyways. I just open a QDC and drain from there.


My drain worked okay when i had to change some parts during my build but i haven't drained it to clean or anything we shall see. Idk if it's really a drain i mean i guess it is but it's basically just a valve exit to pump most of the liquid out. Of course i had the pump layout backwards in this pic but the drain valve on the left outlet of the 240mm rad is the same. Seemed to work. We shall see, when i clean in a couple of months.


Does anyone know when the Evolv will release?


----------



## tsm106

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blackops_2*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *tsm106*
> 
> Dude, I don't ever bother with a drain, they never work well anyways. I just open a QDC and drain from there.
> 
> 
> 
> My drain worked okay when i had to change some parts during my build but i haven't drained it to clean or anything we shall see. Idk if it's really a drain i mean i guess it is but it's basically just a valve exit to pump most of the liquid out. Of course i had the pump layout backwards but the drain value on the left outlet of the 240mm rad is the same. Seemed to work. We shall see, when i clean in a couple of months.
Click to expand...

This is what I do. I open my QDC, and one end goes into a tupperware tub, and the other once it drains a lil, I stick my Metrodatavac in the line. Flip it on and all the water blows thru the loop and out the other end of the QDC. Booyah, drained or is that blown? Anyways, that evacuates most of the water in my loop making service easier.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1094261/metro-vacuum-datavac-club/0_40


----------



## Blackops_2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tsm106*
> 
> This is what I do. I open my QDC, and one end goes into a tupperware tub, and the other once it drains a lil, I stick my Metrodatavac in the line. Flip it on and all the water blows thru the loop and out the other end of the QDC. Booyah, drained or is that blown? Anyways, that evacuates most of the water in my loop making service easier.
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1094261/metro-vacuum-datavac-club/0_40


Probably will switch to a similar method when i realize i wont be able to completely drain my loop the way it is. Plus i can use that valve in my main rig. I just always disliked the aesthetics of QDCs but hey you can always put them somewhere not in view.

Here is the pic i was looking for, here is my "drain" if you will I need to get a Metrodatavac that thing would save me tons.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tsm106*
> 
> Dude, I don't ever bother with a drain, they never work well anyways. I just open a QDC and drain from there.


Well drains *can* work well for the whole loop depending on how components are oriented and if installed at the lowest point and when there is also _proper air-water exchange_. Such as what that guy said he has where he is able to open two top ports as well. If he couldn't open those to let in air then his loop wouldn't fully drain, either. Not even close probably.


----------



## tsm106

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blackops_2*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *tsm106*
> 
> This is what I do. I open my QDC, and one end goes into a tupperware tub, and the other once it drains a lil, I stick my Metrodatavac in the line. Flip it on and all the water blows thru the loop and out the other end of the QDC. Booyah, drained or is that blown? Anyways, that evacuates most of the water in my loop making service easier.
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1094261/metro-vacuum-datavac-club/0_40
> 
> 
> 
> Probably will switch to a similar method when i realize i wont be able to completely drain my loop the way it is. Plus i can use that valve in my main rig. I just always disliked the aesthetics of QDCs but hey you can always put them somewhere not in view.
> 
> Here is the pic i was looking for, here is my "drain" if you will I need to get a Metrodatavac that thing would save me tons.
Click to expand...

Omg man that's like over 100 bucks ion valves and fittings right there in that lil pic.


----------



## Blackops_2

Lol i know







. It's not as much as it looks because i didn't go Bitspower for everything. Went with Ek to cut some cost. But yeah i was attempting to run straights to make it look more clean so i didn't have tubing running everywhere. Still had bends but i think they look alright FWIW, it was my first loop. So didn't turn out with nearly the amount of straight runs that i wanted.

That actual little piece of tubing going from the pump to the 240 was supposed to be all fittings ha. Didn't feel like spending anymore and just rolled with it.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Man everything in this Pro build _just_ fit. And yet does not look crowded. This was not just luck (and having various fittings/adapters on hand) alone. LOVE this case.

Edit: Pics when I finish detailing.


----------



## Akima18

Quick question for Enthoo Primo Owners

I am going to have the Alphacool UT60 480mm in push/pull up top, a Coolgate G2 360mm in push/pull on the bottom and I was wondering:

Will I still be able to fit a radiator on the front with the 360mm on the bottom? I'd like to put something like a XSPC EX240 or a XT45 (opinions on which might perform better?







)in push/pull, or would this radiator be better on the side instead of the front, and just have 2 fans pushing air into the case at the front?

Thanks everyone!


----------



## Blackops_2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> Man everything in this Pro build _just_ fit. And yet does not look crowded. This was not just luck (and having various fittings/adapters on hand) alone. LOVE this case.
> 
> Edit: Pics when I finish detailing.


Best case for the money IMHO


----------



## By-Tor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Akima18*
> 
> Quick question for Enthoo Primo Owners
> 
> I am going to have the Alphacool UT60 480mm in push/pull up top, a Coolgate G2 360mm in push/pull on the bottom and I was wondering:
> 
> Will I still be able to fit a radiator on the front with the 360mm on the bottom? I'd like to put something like a XSPC EX240 or a XT45 (opinions on which might perform better?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )in push/pull, or would this radiator be better on the side instead of the front, and just have 2 fans pushing air into the case at the front?
> 
> Thanks everyone!


I'm using a 40mm thick Black Ice Extreme 360 in push/pull on top and you may be able to fit a 45mm thick one up top without interfering with the motherboard, but I think a 60mm could be a problem.


----------



## Akima18

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *By-Tor*
> 
> I'm using a 40mm thick Black Ice Extreme 360 in push/pull on top and you may be able to fit a 45mm thick one up top without interfering with the motherboard, but I think a 60mm could be a problem.


Really? I was thinking it would fit according to this:

What is the max clearance for a radiator installed in the top panel?
- The case has a clearance of 70mm for mounting a radiator in the roof. The mounts are offset by ~54mm so installing a 60mm (120mm series) radiator in push pull should not be an issue. As long as you do not have anything taller than 53mm on the motherboard (including ram), you can even install a 480mm monsta radiator in push pull. The X79 Dark, and G-Skill ram CAN be used with a monsta rad in push pull

I have nothing in the way in terms of my motherboard, so I am hoping that it will!


----------



## By-Tor

The top mount being offset toward the window will allow for it to slide down in front of the MB's heatsink depending on your MB, but it's going to be cramped to me.

Here's my 40mm setup thats about 2-4mm above the top of the MB.


----------



## Akima18

Ahhh, I see! Thank you for the pictures. I think it should fit okay in mine by the looks of it, I don't mind too much if it goes in front of the Motherboard (I also don't have a heat sink there). My motherboard is the GA-Z97X-SOC Force.

Thank you very much!


----------



## By-Tor

NP... Post pic's when you get her built...


----------



## wjturner78

final wip photos after this its tear down for final paint and assembly with "white glove" treatment


Spoiler: Rear!













Spoiler: Front without door!













Spoiler: front with door!


----------



## Mark011

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rfarmer*
> 
> Mark011 that is a nice, clean looking Evolv-ITX. Great job.


thanks









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *By-Tor*
> 
> Mark011 that's sweet....
> 
> Haven't been to Naples since the 80's... Always a good time..


thank you! I'm leaving, moving in Birmingham (UK) in 7 days eheh
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> @Mark011
> Very nicely done!
> How did you do the lettering and logos, paint of vinyl overlays?
> 
> @johnnyw
> Nice clean build!


Thank you! They are vinyl stickers, i've design the strips etc and a friend made them with a vinyl plotter.

Sorry for late answer to all, i've been busy lately, i will post some pics of the finish work for the end of this week


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> Well drains *can* work well for the whole loop depending on how components are oriented and if installed at the lowest point and when there is also _proper air-water exchange_. Such as what that guy said he has where he is able to open two top ports as well. If he couldn't open those to let in air then his loop wouldn't fully drain, either. Not even close probably.


Yeah, I don't see why it would not work in my case as it's two Alphacool Monsta 480mm rads. This means that when I place the ball valve in front it becomes the lowest point in my loop when I lift up the back a bit. Then I just open up one or two of the spare ports of the top rad in the top back as the highest point in the loop. This should more or less let the water go through the loop naturally with air pouring in from the top.

That said I know I woul still have a tiny bit of water left in the bottom rad, but that is of no concern as I would be able to do maintenance on the rest of the loop without probelms.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tsm106*
> 
> Dude, I don't ever bother with a drain, they never work well anyways. I just open a QDC and drain from there.


As for using QDC's they are simply out of my budget at the moment and I'm not about to spend a ton on extra stuff just to satisfy those that says it won't work. If it doesnt then I will simply have learned that and I will have to implement other methods. Especially since QDCs would mean I would have to buy WC specific parts while for the ball valve I simply bought a standard brass ball valve used in plumbing. It is better quality then most of the WC parts anyways as I don't have to deal with the stupid plastic handles and whatnot.

Thanks for the pointers though


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PureBlackFire*
> 
> As for using QDC's they are simply out of my budget at the moment and I'm not about t spend a ton on extra stuff just to satisfy those that says it won't work. If it doesnt then I will simply have learned that and I will have to implement other methods. Especially since QDCs would mean I would have to buy WC specific parts while for the ball valve I simply bought a standard brass ball valve used in blumbing. It better quality then most of the WC parts anyways as I don't have to deal with the stupid plastic handles and whatnot.
> 
> Thanks for the pointers though


Well placed drains work very well. I can open the drain and pop the top off my reservoir and be dry in ~3-4 minutes. Only tip involved is at the end to get the last bit collected in my GPU block around the bend in it. Only fluid left is those last little bits that you can never get out of the rads without shaking, anyway.


----------



## Reaper28

@By-Tor , nice CPU block..


----------



## By-Tor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Reaper28*
> 
> @By-Tor , nice CPU block..


Thanks, it does a great job.

Performance PC....


----------



## owcraftsman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wjturner78*
> 
> final wip photos after this its tear down for final paint and assembly with "white glove" treatment
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Rear!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Front without door!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: front with door!


It's really coming out very nicely can't wait to see it after the white glove treatment.


----------



## wjturner78

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *owcraftsman*
> 
> It's really coming out very nicely can't wait to see it after the white glove treatment.


thank you kind sir,


----------



## Reaper28

I just emailed Phanteks about how much a new Luxe side panel would cost, will post info if they respond back.

EDIT: They said $19.99 + shipping for the windowed side panel on the Luxe


----------



## Blackops_2

Release on the Evlov ATX?


----------



## StrongForce

I have a little problem.. wonder if any of you have seen something similar I have temps problems, with my FX [email protected]

Today I lapped it again to remove all big scratches with 2000 paper, and I tryed some new thermal paste : Gelid GC Extreme.

My temps on prime 95 are 60 on the core and 77 on the socket/cpu in HWinfo.. so my CPU throttles










That's what I was affraid of, this mobo/cpu combo still overheats on the socket even with a case like it..

So I'm wondering if any of you have the same problem, and if I should try to fit a very thin fan in the back of the socket, I used to have one on my old case but without cover.. now with this case I'm not gonna remove the cover..even if it's agaisnt the wall lol, so I wonder if there is enough space and if it's worth it to put some thin low profile fan in the back ..


----------



## iMikeTheKing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wjturner78*
> 
> anything is possible....
> 
> check this primo out
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Sorry for the late response but thanks.


----------



## brazilianloser

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blackops_2*
> 
> Release on the Evlov ATX?


Also interested in that information for the US that is.


----------



## GhettoFied

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brazilianloser*
> 
> Also interested in that information for the US that is.


same, checking every day is driving me nuts. I wonder why they won't tell the release date, I don't see how that can be beneficial in any way. I'll buy this the first instant as soon as it comes out.


----------



## rfarmer

Evol-iTX owners curious if you can fit a NZXT Kraken G10 in your case, why yes you can. I thought it was going to be too thick, but all I did was bend the bottom of the bracket forward a bit and it fit just fine.





Idle temps dropped from idle 45C to 28C, load 80C to 47C, so quite an improvement.


----------



## brazilianloser

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GhettoFied*
> 
> same, checking every day is driving me nuts. I wonder why they won't tell the release date, I don't see how that can be beneficial in any way. I'll buy this the first instant as soon as it comes out.


Yeah was planning on just upgrading my system inside my current case but after seeing reviews and videos I am sold. Will just do a whole fresh build in one whenever available that is.


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Well placed drains work very well. I can open the drain and pop the top off my reservoir and be dry in ~3-4 minutes. Only tip involved is at the end to get the last bit collected in my GPU block around the bend in it. Only fluid left is those last little bits that you can never get out of the rads without shaking, anyway.


question for a drain I remove the top port of my reservior. It works but I feel it would work better if I could remove a port on the top rad. That's why I plan to get a alphacool 45 on top (which I hope fits the pro with single set of fans) and than remove my res cap and the top facing ports on the rad my question is do I have to drain some out before removing the top facing caps on the top rad as wouldn't it leak out?


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *StrongForce*
> 
> I have a little problem.. wonder if any of you have seen something similar I have temps problems, with my FX [email protected]
> 
> Today I lapped it again to remove all big scratches with 2000 paper, and I tryed some new thermal paste : Gelid GC Extreme.
> 
> My temps on prime 95 are 60 on the core and 77 on the socket/cpu in HWinfo.. so my CPU throttles
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's what I was affraid of, this mobo/cpu combo still overheats on the socket even with a case like it..
> 
> So I'm wondering if any of you have the same problem, and if I should try to fit a very thin fan in the back of the socket, I used to have one on my old case but without cover.. now with this case I'm not gonna remove the cover..even if it's agaisnt the wall lol, so I wonder if there is enough space and if it's worth it to put some thin low profile fan in the back ..


What case? I had a 140mm phanteks fan behind my mobo with my pro to help. Dropped it 10 degrees. Just have ghetto rig. Also I hear lapping doesn't work well on cpu coolers.
Last what cpu cooler do you have and try occt Orr intel burn test. 95 is way beyond temps you'll ever see


----------



## StrongForce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> What case? I had a 140mm phanteks fan behind my mobo with my pro to help. Dropped it 10 degrees. Just have ghetto rig. Also I hear lapping doesn't work well on cpu coolers.
> Last what cpu cooler do you have and try occt Orr intel burn test. 95 is way beyond temps you'll ever see


A Primo, it's all the same mate, within 30 second my socket is at 80 and core at 67 though now with IBT very high after 1mn 89 socket and 73 core though now.. so maybe I need to reapply paste.. damnit. lol


----------



## doyll

You've lapped both the cooler and the CPU, correct?
Are you still using the stock fans on your NH-D14?
Try a couple of Phanteks case fans on it instead and see if that helps.

Of course check your TIM seat. Too much TIM is more of a problem than too little.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GhettoFied*
> 
> same, checking every day is driving me nuts. I wonder why they won't tell the release date, I don't see how that can be beneficial in any way. I'll buy this the first instant as soon as it comes out.


Often a release date is entirely dependent on the initial shipment being released from customs. Given that is impossible to be absolute on, better to not give a date than completely miss the given date.


----------



## Dimensive

Would it be beneficial to have 2 x 120mm or just the 200mm fan up front on the EVOLV ITX?


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> question for a drain I remove the top port of my reservior. It works but I feel it would work better if I could remove a port on the top rad. That's why I plan to get a alphacool 45 on top (which I hope fits the pro with single set of fans) and than remove my res cap and the top facing ports on the rad my question is do I have to drain some out before removing the top facing caps on the top rad as wouldn't it leak out?


Are you looking to do this due to difficulty getting to the reservoir?

In theory, you should get no leakage opening the top of the radiator _if it is the uppermost point in the loop_.


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Are you looking to do this due to difficulty getting to the reservoir?
> 
> In theory, you should get no leakage opening the top of the radiator _if it is the uppermost point in the loop_.


I can get to my reservior just fine. More doing it to help drain better as the top rad and top rad to cpu don't drain out well at all. Where as the rest of the unit drains fine just taking the extra port cap off the bp res. as shown.


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *StrongForce*
> 
> I have a little problem.. wonder if any of you have seen something similar I have temps problems, with my FX [email protected]
> 
> Today I lapped it again to remove all big scratches with 2000 paper, and I tryed some new thermal paste : Gelid GC Extreme.
> 
> My temps on prime 95 are 60 on the core and 77 on the socket/cpu in HWinfo.. so my CPU throttles
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's what I was affraid of, this mobo/cpu combo still overheats on the socket even with a case like it..
> 
> So I'm wondering if any of you have the same problem, and if I should try to fit a very thin fan in the back of the socket, I used to have one on my old case but without cover.. now with this case I'm not gonna remove the cover..even if it's agaisnt the wall lol, so I wonder if there is enough space and if it's worth it to put some thin low profile fan in the back ..


Right... First things first, is this a recent problem or was it like this when it was all brand new?

If it's recent then I would conclude that it's simply because eh CPU is getting old. Electronics get worn out and CPUs/GPUs does suffer from this especially so when overclocked. This is simply part of aging circuits.

This is a direct quote from the following article:
"Circuit aging can no longer be ignored. All portions of the SoC, whether analog, digital, or memory, will be affected. These negative impacts can include slower speeds, irregular-timing characteristics, and increased power consumption. In ex-treme cases, circuit aging may even cause functional failures to occur over time."

Granted it does not say anything specific about heat, but it's general knowledge that more power= more heat.

This was simply the first article I found on this topic, but you can search for some yourself regarding the issue. The fact remains, circuits suffer from aging and there is nothing one can do about it. Granted overclocked chips are more open for this issue as apparently the higher voltages does degrade it somewhat.

If you chip is new however then I really don't have a clue what the temps are about, because you should not get these temps.

Edit: As for the fans, the Noctua NF-P14 is actually better then the 140sp when it comes to static pressure and air flow so changing it around will likely not solve anything.


----------



## GhettoFied

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Often a release date is entirely dependent on the initial shipment being released from customs. Given that is impossible to be absolute on, better to not give a date than completely miss the given date.


very good point. Didn't think about that.


----------



## StrongForce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> Right... First things first, is this a recent problem or was it like this when it was all brand new?
> 
> If it's recent then I would conclude that it's simply because eh CPU is getting old. Electronics get worn out and CPUs/GPUs does suffer from this especially so when overclocked. This is simply part of aging circuits.
> 
> This is a direct quote from the following article:
> "Circuit aging can no longer be ignored. All portions of the SoC, whether analog, digital, or memory, will be affected. These negative impacts can include slower speeds, irregular-timing characteristics, and increased power consumption. In ex-treme cases, circuit aging may even cause functional failures to occur over time."
> 
> Granted it does not say anything specific about heat, but it's general knowledge that more power= more heat.
> 
> This was simply the first article I found on this topic, but you can search for some yourself regarding the issue. The fact remains, circuits suffer from aging and there is nothing one can do about it. Granted overclocked chips are more open for this issue as apparently the higher voltages does degrade it somewhat.
> 
> If you chip is new however then I really don't have a clue what the temps are about, because you should not get these temps.
> 
> Edit: As for the fans, the Noctua NF-P14 is actually better then the 140sp when it comes to static pressure and air flow so changing it around will likely not solve anything.


Yea but I bought this CPU like last year and I think I would see more people having this problem on the FX 8000's thread..they say few months, but the thing is CPUs are a very particular piece of electronic, does this even apply? I mean probably but not as much as smaller components.. I don't know for sure to be honest, maybe I'm one of the unlucky ones, but seriously with the amount of people running these CPUs at speeds like 4.8 4.9 even 5ghz 24/7 with 1.5+ v I guess I would have seen more complain about it.

think it's just my thermal paste and motherboard.. something is wrong, lately I haven't been able to get consistant results, one day it would be stable on prime at 66° then few weeks later when I try again it goes through the roof, it's quite annoying, that's the reason why I decided to try another thermal paste
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> You've lapped both the cooler and the CPU, correct?
> Are you still using the stock fans on your NH-D14?
> Try a couple of Phanteks case fans on it instead and see if that helps.
> 
> Of course check your TIM seat. Too much TIM is more of a problem than too little.


I put a very small dot yea indeed small dots are the best

No only the fan in the middle is stock, I had a phanteks 14cm as secondary fan but I decided to put this one on the bottom of my case, so now I do have an antec I don't know which model though, and the one above ram is a old 12cm coolermaster crappy case fan.. lol, so yea I could start by buying new fans that's true.

will try to change paste now and see if it helps also

but this is getting slightly off topic though I said putting a fan on the back socket do helps with socket/CPU temps, and slightly on the core so that might just be the problem


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *StrongForce*
> 
> Yea but I bought this CPU like last year and I think I would see more people having this problem on the FX 8000's thread..
> 
> think it's just my thermal paste and motherboard.. something is wrong, lately I haven't been able to get consistant results, one day it would be stable on prime at 66° then few weeks later when I try again it goes through the roof, it's quite annoying, that's the reason why I decided to try another thermal paste
> I put a very small dot yea indeed small dots are the best
> 
> No only the fan in the middle is stock, I had a phanteks 14cm as secondary fan but I decided to put this one on the bottom of my case, so now I do have an antec I don't know which model though, and the one above ram is a old 12cm coolermaster crappy case fan.. lol, so yea I could start by buying new fans that's true.
> 
> will try to change paste now and see if it helps also


In running intel now but when I had my fx8350 I noticed using just a pea or dot method didn't work well. I got better numbers by a good amount using just a lea and spreading it out than putting the cooler on. Also matters what board you have. I know things got better when I went from a. 970 to 900fx board


----------



## sconzen

Has anyone come up with a mod to the front panel to maybe show off the large fan?

I installed 2x RGB led strips in my Evolv ITX, and with the front panel off the fan looks amazing with the glow behind it. Would love to see it a bit more without just removing the panel all together.


----------



## StrongForce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> In running intel now but when I had my fx8350 I noticed using just a pea or dot method didn't work well. I got better numbers by a good amount using just a lea and spreading it out than putting the cooler on. Also matters what board you have. I know things got better when I went from a. 970 to 900fx board


Mmh yea I tryed to put more, it would be logical due to the fact it's a 8core the size of the die (or the cores) inside the CPU might be bigger than most CPU's.. I'll give it a try, I think I tryed, but not with this paste.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

I have two Silverstone fans with nice blue blades to fit my theme in front (on my 240 rad) and yeah you can't see them at all (through the dust filter, especially). Fortunately, they have 5mm LED holes so I am going to add white ones. Got a Bitspower LED hub thing too so I don't have to deal with 10 annoying and bulky molex connections. Can get tailed 2-pin ones for $2 each that don't need sleeving at Primochill (anyone seen lower?).

Edit: short cathodes might work too; like one on floor in front and maybe another on the drive bay roof.


----------



## Lyxchoklad

Here are some pics of the compact ATX build I'm planning.

PSU will be above the I\O



Waiting on parts to change motherboard back panel to ATX



This will be my first liquid cooled build


----------



## TMatzelle60

+1 ^ for something that will be sweet please build log it The Evolv is a great case i am currently using and getting ready for the Z170 Stinger from EVGA with the Evolv ITX


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TMatzelle60*
> 
> +1 ^ for something that will be sweet please build log it The Evolv is a great case i am currently using and getting ready for the Z170 Stinger from EVGA with the Evolv ITX


Bring on the Z170's, and Skylake of course.


----------



## Trestles126

Anyone in so cal area, I'm selling my black luxe with a 850 Evga g2 and a asus ROG hero vii for 375 pm of local and want a good jump start on a wc luxe build


----------



## GhettoFied

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trestles126*
> 
> Anyone in so cal area, I'm selling my black luxe with a 850 Evga g2 and a asus ROG hero vii for 375 pm of local and want a good jump start on a wc luxe build


have a friend who would buy that but he's in GA


----------



## Lyxchoklad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TMatzelle60*
> 
> +1 ^ for something that will be sweet please build log it The Evolv is a great case i am currently using and getting ready for the Z170 Stinger from EVGA with the Evolv ITX


Thank you for the rep but my build has been placed on hold until I receive another MB. I decided to drop the crosshair Z for an Asus Z97 board instead.


----------



## MrPatate

Phanteks's booth at Computex: http://www.anandtech.com/show/9370/phanteks-computex-2015-booth-tour-new-enthoo-evolv-mitx-case
Quote:


> Phanteks also had a prototype of a dual-system case that can take a full ATX motherboard and a mini-ITX one. The interesting part is that Phanteks is working on a power splitter, so the two systems could be powered by a single PSU to save on space and cost.


----------



## TMatzelle60

Nice choice of going with z97







and intel. Welcome to the blue side. Currently waiting for skylake. Just ordering small parts that i will need like fans cables fan controller


----------



## Mark011

Hardest build i ever made, almost no room for hands and for working on the ~40 fittings i used for the loop, evolv itx, double 240 radiator, cpu and vga blocks, pump and cilindric res, better photos will come later


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mark011*
> 
> Hardest build i ever made, almost no room for hands and for working on the ~40 fittings i used for the loop, evolv itx, double 240 radiator, cpu and vga blocks, pump and cilindric res, better photos will come later
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Man that is a clean build, really love the white/black color scheme. Looking forward to the photos and specs on the system.


----------



## garethjwilliams

Phanteks enthoo primo with 360mm rad on bottom and 480mm rad on top ??


----------



## Mark011

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rfarmer*
> 
> Man that is a clean build, really love the white/black color scheme. Looking forward to the photos and specs on the system.


Thanks, here the specs

CPU: INTEL i7 4790K
MB: ASUS Z97 MAXIMUS IMPACT VII
RAM: AVEXIR BLITZ 1.1 1600MHZ 2x4GB
VGA: ZOTAC GTX 980
SSD: PX-G128M6e + SAMSUNG 850 EVO 500gb
HDD: WD GREEN 2.5 2TB
PSU: SEASONIC SNOW SILENT 1050W PLATINUM
CASE: PHANTEKS EVOLV ITX

Liquid Cooling

CPU: SWIFTECH Apogee XL Black Body
VGA: SWIFTECH KOMODO-NV-GTX9
PUMP: SWIFTECH MCP50X
RADIATORS: 2x ALPHACOOL ST30 240MM
RESERVOIR: ALPHACOOL CAPE CORP 10LT
FITTINGS: COOLFORCE
TUBE: COOLFORCE PETG
FANS: CORSAIR SP120
COOLANT: MAYHEMS PASTEL WHITE


----------



## By-Tor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mark011*
> 
> Thanks, here the specs
> 
> CPU: INTEL i7 4790K
> MB: ASUS Z97 MAXIMUS IMPACT VII
> RAM: AVEXIR BLITZ 1.1 1600MHZ 2x4GB
> VGA: ZOTAC GTX 980
> SSD: PX-G128M6e + SAMSUNG 850 EVO 500gb
> HDD: WD GREEN 2.5 2TB
> PSU: SEASONIC SNOW SILENT 1050W PLATINUM
> CASE: PHANTEKS EVOLV ITX
> 
> Liquid Cooling
> 
> CPU: SWIFTECH Apogee XL Black Body
> VGA: SWIFTECH KOMODO-NV-GTX9
> PUMP: SWIFTECH MCP50X
> RADIATORS: 2x ALPHACOOL ST30 240MM
> RESERVOIR: ALPHACOOL CAPE CORP 10LT
> FITTINGS: COOLFORCE
> TUBE: COOLFORCE PETG
> FANS: CORSAIR SP120
> COOLANT: MAYHEMS PASTEL WHITE


I went with the Apogee block on my build and PPC sells it with an ROG lazer cut mod.. Would look great on the Impact iTX.
http://www.performance-pcs.com/swiftech-apogee-xl-ppcs-custom-rog-edition.html


----------



## WHIMington

Does anyone knows what kind of RGB LED strips Luxe is using? I have an aquaero 6 on my hand and I am thinking about using it to control the LEDs instead of using the case controler.

If the case LEDs are common ground, I will have to do some mods like this one.


----------



## Mark011

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *By-Tor*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mark011*
> 
> Thanks, here the specs
> 
> Cut
> 
> I went with the Apogee block on my build and PPC sells it with an ROG lazer cut mod.. Would look great on the Impact iTX.
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/swiftech-apogee-xl-ppcs-custom-rog-edition.html
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yes it would, but i got the waterblock directly from swiftech as sponsorship, there was no custom lazer cut available
Click to expand...


----------



## By-Tor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mark011*
> 
> Yes it would, but i got the waterblock directly from swiftech as sponsorship, there was no custom lazer cut available


Very nice deal....


----------



## arrow0309

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mark011*
> 
> Hardest build i ever made, almost no room for hands and for working on the ~40 fittings i used for the loop, evolv itx, double 240 radiator, cpu and vga blocks, pump and cilindric res, better photos will come later


+Rep

Niiiiiice!
Gorgeous small yet powerful WC desktop, we like it!
















Man, are you in the UK already?
Just let me know when you got here









Cheers


----------



## Mark011

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *arrow0309*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mark011*
> 
> Hardest build i ever made, almost no room for hands and for working on the ~40 fittings i used for the loop, evolv itx, double 240 radiator, cpu and vga blocks, pump and cilindric res, better photos will come later
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> +Rep
> 
> Niiiiiice!
> Gorgeous small yet powerful WC desktop, we like it!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Man, are you in the UK already?
> Just let me know when you got here
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cheers
Click to expand...

Thanks! I'm coming in the uk in 2 days, on Tuesday


----------



## Reaper28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *By-Tor*
> 
> I went with the Apogee block on my build and PPC sells it with an ROG lazer cut mod.. Would look great on the Impact iTX.
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/swiftech-apogee-xl-ppcs-custom-rog-edition.html


I wish PPCS did something like this on the EK MX block, they do the ROG logo but it just doesn't look as good


----------



## iNen1

Quick question to all Enthoo Primo owners.

Is it possible to fit a 480mm rad bottom with a 240mm rad in front? Is it possible to equip both with fans? If not, can you equip the 480mm Rad with fans and leave the 240mm naked in the front?

Thanks guys.


----------



## garethjwilliams

480mm rad will fit in the bottom with push/pull configuration, I have a 360mm monsta rad in bottom with not much space, so I would say no to the front 240mm rad but there is space where a bracket is supplied for a rad that goes on the side of side panel which would incorporate fans as well hope that helps


----------



## By-Tor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iNen1*
> 
> Quick question to all Enthoo Primo owners.
> 
> Is it possible to fit a 480mm rad bottom with a 240mm rad in front? Is it possible to equip both with fans? If not, can you equip the 480mm Rad with fans and leave the 240mm naked in the front?
> 
> Thanks guys.


I don't think that will work since the 480mm will go all the way to the front of the case, but you can mount a 240mm on the side next to the 480mm using the supplied mount bracket.


----------



## iNen1

Aww, that's too bad. I kinda want to avoid the side mounted rad, since it obstructs the area too much. I imagine putting tubes on that rad has to be a bit unpleasant, as well as taking it off to maintain.

Would you say a 360mm rad would work with a 240mm up front? It should have enough room then, i figure.


----------



## By-Tor

I'm using a 360mm on the bottom and I have plenty of space for a front mounted 240mm.


----------



## Mark011

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iNen1*
> 
> Aww, that's too bad. I kinda want to avoid the side mounted rad, since it obstructs the area too much. I imagine putting tubes on that rad has to be a bit unpleasant, as well as taking it off to maintain.
> 
> Would you say a 360mm rad would work with a 240mm up front? It should have enough room then, i figure.


Why don't use 480 on the bottom and 480/360 in the top? It would be enough even for a quad sli


----------



## iNen1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mark011*
> 
> Why don't use 480 on the bottom and 480/360 in the top? It would be enough even for a quad sli


I want ridiculously low temperatures, or punish my hardware with inhuman overclocks. I currently have 2x 360mm rads in my case and my Dual Titans exceed 60 degrees celsius. I have flashed their bios, they're ridiculously overvolted, but i still wish for better temps.

Want to go all overkill on this one.


----------



## tsm106

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iNen1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mark011*
> 
> Why don't use 480 on the bottom and 480/360 in the top? It would be enough even for a quad sli
> 
> 
> 
> I want ridiculously low temperatures, or punish my hardware with inhuman overclocks. I currently have 2x 360mm rads in my case and my Dual Titans exceed 60 degrees celsius. I have flashed their bios, they're ridiculously overvolted, but i still wish for better temps.
> 
> Want to go all overkill on this one.
Click to expand...

Then go overkill on rad surface area?

Quote:


> Why don't use 480 on the bottom and 480/360 in the top? *It would be enough even for a quad sli*


Btw, this statement is really quite off the mark.


----------



## Toan

Just finished my setup 100%. Took a while but its finally done!


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## emsj86

Looks very good. Just a suggestion you should paint the rings orange to match and use vinyal wrap to cover the corsair hub sticker


----------



## emsj86

Was all set to buying the evolv atx than found a 900d for 100 dollars. Hmmm not sure what to do bc the 900d is not the same quality and I would buy most of the plates
From cold zero to make it look better which would end up around 200 -250 anyways


----------



## michael-ocn

900d is a refrigerator sized compared to the evolv atx?


----------



## emsj86

Lol I know kinda one of the cons for me on the case just being too big. I like to move my case around to work on and the area it sits when gaming isn't the easiest to get the case out of let alone a refrigerator size case


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Was all set to buying the evolv atx than found a 900d for 100 dollars. Hmmm not sure what to do bc the 900d is not the same quality and I would buy most of the plates
> From cold zero to make it look better which would end up around 200 -250 anyways


Guess it depends on how deep your pockets are and how much room you have where you want to set the case. I have to admit as much as I love my Enthoo Primo, it's size limits placement significantly ..

Evolv ATX is much
smaller at 235mm x 495mm x 510mm (W x H x D)
Primo is . 250mm x 650mm x 600mm 15mm x 155mm x 90mm bigger than Evolv ATX
900D is . 252mm x 692mm x 650mm 17mm x 197mm x 140mm bigger bigger than Evolv ATX

Edit:
Could put it on a caster base. That's what a few of us have done.


----------



## Dorito Bandit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Toan*
> 
> Just finished my setup 100%. Took a while but its finally done!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Very nice, bro!









Do you realize that you have left the protective plastic film on your drive bay latches? They could fall off and get sucked into your fans. Just wanted to let you know.


----------



## emsj86

Well the 900d is out of question now back to waiting for a white atx evolv. Frys had the 900d for 100 dollars but wouldn't process the order. Was told to wait and now it's sold out. Good job frys you suck as always


----------



## wjturner78

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Toan*
> 
> Just finished my setup 100%. Took a while but its finally done!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


clean....


----------



## Toan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dorito Bandit*
> 
> Very nice, bro!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Do you realize that you have left the protective plastic film on your drive bay latches? They could fall off and get sucked into your fans. Just wanted to let you know.


Yea I know lol, thats the best part, peeling the plastic off of everything. Save the best for last right?









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wjturner78*
> 
> clean....


Thanks, I have some cable management to do in the back or I would have shown the backside too but its mayhem back there right now lol.


----------



## wjturner78

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Toan*
> 
> Yea I know lol, thats the best part, peeling the plastic off of everything. Save the best for last right?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks, I have some cable management to do in the back or I would have shown the backside too but its mayhem back there right now lol.




just hide it all


----------



## Dorito Bandit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Toan*
> 
> Yea I know lol, thats the best part, peeling the plastic off of everything. Save the best for last right?


Yep! I still occasionally stick all the protective plastic film back on my Enthoo Pro just so I can feel the satisfaction of pulling it all off again!


----------



## Deathtrip2k

Got some questions regarding the EVOLV ITX case and some other, not relly belonging here sorry, but i'll shoot away anyway








Im thinking about building my first watercooled itx system and I'de like to know if it's possible to fit 2x 240mm rads (top & front). Probably the EK PE 240 wich is 38mm thick.
And also, will the top radiator interfear with the ASUS Maximus VII Impact extra power board thingie that sticks up?

Full specs would be:

Mobo: ASUS Maximus VII Impact + EK Monoblock
GPU: 980ti + Waterblock
CPU: 4690k
SSD: 1tb Samsung EVO SSD
HDD: 500gb (can skip this if needed, have 2tb external)
PSU: Corsair AX850
Rads:2x240mm rads
Pump + Res: I need some tips on this, i guess a pump/res combo would be best, i just don't know what i need/will fit for this setup


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dorito Bandit*
> 
> Do you realize that you have left the protective plastic film on your drive bay latches? They could fall off and get sucked into your fans. Just wanted to let you know.


Speaking of the latches can they be removed? If so, is not obvious to me. Do not match up with and secure my Lamptron FC6 where I want it. Though that might not help me; still may be nowhere to screw it in.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> Speaking of the latches can they be removed? If so, is not obvious to me. Do not match up with and secure my Lamptron FC6 where I want it. Though that might not help me; still may be nowhere to screw it in.


yes they can be but it's tricky not to break them..


----------



## wrigleyvillain

So you don't mention anything to unsecure&#8230;just pull on it or what?

By 'not obvious to me' I meant _how_ to remove them.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> So you don't mention anything to unsecure&#8230;just pull on it or what?


if I remember right they have a push in clip that has to be removed from the inside...I can look when I get home as my bays are removed so will be easy to see


----------



## Mark011

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iNen1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mark011*
> 
> Why don't use 480 on the bottom and 480/360 in the top? It would be enough even for a quad sli
> 
> 
> 
> I want ridiculously low temperatures, or punish my hardware with inhuman overclocks. I currently have 2x 360mm rads in my case and my Dual Titans exceed 60 degrees celsius. I have flashed their bios, they're ridiculously overvolted, but i still wish for better temps.
> 
> Want to go all overkill on this one.
Click to expand...

More radiators doesn't always mean low temperature, change the 2x 360 with a 420 on the top (better Than 480) and a 480 on the bottom and you should improve your temp


----------



## wjturner78

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> So you don't mention anything to unsecure&#8230;just pull on it or what?
> 
> By 'not obvious to me' I meant _how_ to remove them.


squeeze the little tabe in the middle and pull them out


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Yeah I noticed the tab upon looking closer…though before I even tried jimmying that thing the one below ended up just coming off in my hand, more or less. Yeah those holes are a little bit too far back for my devices, my fan controller and also my blu ray burner. As little as a tenth of an inch, but still. Really glad there is no window up there now.


----------



## Bigjk47

I see a lot of beautiful builds here, love it. Just thought I'd share my recent mod to my primo.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

I like that...do you by chance have a devil 13?


----------



## FrostByghte

Anyone know where to find the Enthoo Primo black exterior with white interior? I see it on the Phantek site, but haven't seen anyone actually carrying this one.


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FrostByghte*
> 
> Anyone know where to find the Enthoo Primo black exterior with white interior? I see it on the Phantek site, but haven't seen anyone actually carrying this one.


Check case king website as I believe it was only made for them


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FrostByghte*
> 
> Anyone know where to find the Enthoo Primo black exterior with white interior? I see it on the Phantek site, but haven't seen anyone actually carrying this one.


From what it seems it's only sold by Caseking.de, but I may have glanced over a couple of posts in this thread regarding this theme.








Post 1000!!!


----------



## FrostByghte

Well that explains it, thank you both.

With the part number PH-ES813P_SWT I managed to locate a link on Amazon that indicates it will be out in a month or so. At least it appears that way.

http://smile.amazon.com/Phanteks-Enthoo-Aluminum-Ultimate-PH-ES813P_SWT/dp/B00SKAWE3S?sa-no-redirect=1


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Wow that white interior is noice


----------



## Reaper28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bigjk47*
> 
> I see a lot of beautiful builds here, love it. Just thought I'd share my recent mod to my primo.


Love the glowing Phanteks logo, is that actually cut into the panel?


----------



## Bigjk47

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Reaper28*
> 
> Love the glowing Phanteks logo, is that actually cut into the panel?


Thanks! No it's actually a modified piece of plexiglass underneath the window itself, and the logo was inspired by the Devils Canyon CPU I'm running.


----------



## FrostByghte

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> Wow that white interior is noice


Totally agree, I ordered one of those and one of the black/orange models from newegg.


----------



## Faster_is_better

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FrostByghte*
> 
> Anyone know where to find the Enthoo Primo black exterior with white interior? I see it on the Phantek site, but haven't seen anyone actually carrying this one.


The Primo and Pro in White/Black just released on Newegg.


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Faster_is_better*
> 
> The Primo and Pro in White/Black just released on Newegg.


say what?


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Pro too? Balls though I bought months ago (and something tells me it will be a bit north of $100 shipped).


----------



## DapperDan795

I need an Evolv atx white or black/red in my life asap. I've been doing black/red for a while so i'm tempted to go white this time. Would look slick with the new Gigabyte Z170 white/red board.


----------



## Faster_is_better

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PureBlackFire*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Faster_is_better*
> 
> The Primo and Pro in White/Black just released on Newegg.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> say what?
Click to expand...

These:

Phatenks Enthoo Pro in Black/White colors

Looks like Newegg listed it wrong, it is a Green/Black Pro

Phanteks Entho Primo in Black/White colors


----------



## PureBlackFire

thanks. just saw the Titanium Green Enthoo pro as well.


----------



## Dorito Bandit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Faster_is_better*
> 
> These:
> 
> Phatenks Enthoo Pro in Black/White colors
> 
> Phanteks Entho Primo in Black/White colors


Damn! S/H for the Pro is $21.58 and $19.99 for the much heavier Primo! The original full tower Enthoo Pro has free S/H. Of course, all this could change.


----------



## emsj86

A to e check out the acrylic full window panels for the pro luxe and primo on mnpc


----------



## wrigleyvillain

I don't see any in stock still? Those are nice but I have things such that I don't really want to be able to see the drive bay panel anyway.

Definitely would like a totally clear window instead of this tinted crap though.


----------



## Faster_is_better

Supposedly Phanteks is coming out with clear windows at some point....


----------



## Jhexp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Faster_is_better*
> 
> Supposedly Phanteks is coming out with clear windows at some point....


Good news, my windows had a bit of an accident not long ago


----------



## emsj86

I love my custom clear cast acrylic windows. Might and day difference


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Immaculate rig, cluttered house. Priorities!


----------



## Kyrie

Hey everyone, I'm trying to decide between getting the Enthoo Pro or the Corsair Air 540. Both are around the same price ($99, and the Air 540 has a $20 rebate on Newegg). Please check out my thread here and give me some feedback. Thanks! http://www.overclock.net/t/1560959/enthoo-pro-or-corsair-air-540


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> Immaculate rig, cluttered house. Priorities!


Yea the apartment was fine until we had our lil boy now another one on the way there literally is no room. Good thing is I will be getting a house before winter I all goes well


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Hope it works out for you all. Yeah I could tell it's just stuff and not like a dirty hoarderesque place (in that case I would have commented only to myself lol).


----------



## Faster_is_better

Starting up my Primo Build log, check it here


----------



## Dair76

I hope the Pro M will be available by the time I do my next build, although that might be pushing it (August/September ish).


----------



## By-Tor

I've been in my Primo for 2 weeks now and I have to say that I love it... This is a great case to build in and looks like million bucks...

http://www.overclock.net/t/1557043/my-phanteks-enthoo-primo-build


----------



## MrPatate

I'm having trouble fitting the 200mm at the top of the Luxe/Pro.
How did you install it??? There's no holes that fits. There's 4 little holes for a radiator that almost fits (missing a few mm) but there's no screw long enough to go hold the fan there.

I'm pretty sure the fan needs to be at the back (where the motherboard back plate is cut to fit the radius of the fan).

Am I missing something?


----------



## Dorito Bandit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrPatate*
> 
> I'm having trouble fitting the 200mm at the top of the Luxe/Pro.
> How did you install it??? There's no holes that fits. There's 4 little holes for a radiator that almost fits (missing a few mm) but there's no screw long enough to go hold the fan there.
> 
> I'm pretty sure the fan needs to be at the back (where the motherboard back plate is cut to fit the radius of the fan).
> 
> Am I missing something?


Yeah, I thought there was no way to mount a 200mm fan at top on my Enthoo Pro, but you can do it. The screws are included with your accessory tool box. The screws do appear too short, but they will secure the fan in place. Just takes a little patience to do it.









EDIT: Yes, those small holes at back of case is where I mounted my fan. They look too small, but the screws that came with the tool box will work.

Image from another site.


----------



## toggz

bought the enthoo primo, should be here monday or tuesday!!!!!

Looking for ideas on what rads to use for my loop to cool an i7 4790k and sli gtx980ti's

I want 480s on top and bottom! Im considering the monsta p/p on the bottom and the xt45 p/p on the top side. Anyone here with that combo? I also looked into the HWL black ice 480GTX, looks great. So pretty much those are my choices. I will be running probably sp120s or AP15s!


----------



## MrPatate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dorito Bandit*
> 
> Yeah, I thought there was no way to mount a 200mm fan at top on my Enthoo Pro, but you can do it. The screws are included with your accessory tool box. The screws do appear too short, but they will secure the fan in place. Just takes a little patience to do it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT: Yes, those small holes at back of case is where I mounted my fan. They look too small, but the screws that came with the tool box will work.


Thanks, I didn't notice the thread in the holes comes out a little to secure the fan.

Quick and easy thanks to you.


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bigjk47*
> 
> I see a lot of beautiful builds here, love it. Just thought I'd share my recent mod to my primo.


Pretty Cool Mod, almost needs a Devil 13!


----------



## Dorito Bandit

Enthoo Pro
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrPatate*
> 
> Thanks, I didn't notice the thread in the holes comes out a little to secure the fan.
> 
> Quick and easy thanks to you.


Glad to help!









By the way, what 200mm fan are you using and how will it be used (intake or exhaust)? I am currently using mine as exhaust, even with the dust filter still in place. I am also using the same type of fan that came with the case. They're very quiet fans.


----------



## Nauticle

Hey everyone Im thinking of buying a Enthoo Pro (no window) but can't really figure out the best way of setting up my fans for it.

First off my specs are:
i7-860 @ stock (will be ocing to somewhere between 3.6-4.0) with a NH-D14
12GB of DDR3 (4GB @ 1333 and 8GB @ 1600)
EVGA GTX 570 (being replaced by a Sapphire TriX R9 290 or XFX DD R9 290(or x))
Asus Maximus III Formula
Silverstone Strider 1000w Silver PSU
1 SSD and 5 HDDs
LG DVD combo drive
LG Flatron 1080p monitor

Possible upgrades this year:
Haswell/Skylake CPU + mobo + ram (if Skylake)
New monitor (1080p again or 1440p)
External dvd/bluray drive instead of internal

Fan wise I have 2x NF-P14 FLX and 1x NF-P12 of which both NF-P14 FLX fans are in use with my NH-D14.

My current thoughts of setting up my fans are:
Option 1:
2xNF-P14 FLX @ front (intakes)
1xPH-F140SP @ bottom (from case, intakes)
1xPH-F200SP @ top rear (from case, exhaust)
1xNF-P12 and 1xPH-F120 XP/SP (purchased) @ NHD14 in push/pull configuration

Option 2:
1xPH-F200SP @ front (intake)
1xNF-P14 FLX @ bottom (intake)
1xNF-P14 FLX @ front top (intake)
1xPH-F140SP @ rear (exhaust)
1xNF-P12 and 1xPH-F120 XP/SP (purchased) @ NHD14 in push/pull configuration

My biggest concern with these 2 options is the fact that they haven't accounted for the CFM required by my new GPU which I couldn't find. Im fairly certain that these setups would struggle bringing in enough air to satisfy the components and Id really prefer not having to buy another fan on top of the extra 120mm Im already considering.

A few notes to make helping easier:
-My RAM are G.Skill Ripjaws which is why I was planning on replacing the 140mm fans on my NHD14 with 120mm ones (clearance issues)
-Id really prefer not having to buy 2 fans if they are going to cost $20-$30 each
-Ive read the PWM guide from doyll and about the Phanteks PWM controller but Im confused on the proper setup for it. I understand the 4pin and power setup but the actual connecting fans/regulating them with a program is where Im sort of lost
-Also Im not sure if the fan I got with my NHD14 was a NF-P14 or NF-P14 FLX

Any help is greatly appreciated thanks







.


----------



## Sniffer29

Quick question about the Evolv ITX.

Can you fit a slim radiator with fans in the front of the case while still having the hard drive rack in place?


----------



## pcrevolution

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sniffer29*
> 
> Quick question about the Evolv ITX.
> 
> Can you fit a slim radiator with fans in the front of the case while still having the hard drive rack in place?


Sorry. Nope.


----------



## Bigjk47

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> Pretty Cool Mod, almost needs a Devil 13!




Super sexy card, but the fact that it comes with a stand to prevent GPU sag .... meh. That 295x2 though


----------



## MrPatate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dorito Bandit*
> 
> By the way, what 200mm fan are you using and how will it be used (intake or exhaust)? I am currently using mine as exhaust, even with the dust filter still in place. I am also using the same type of fan that came with the case. They're very quiet fans.


I'm using the one that came with the case, place 2*140mm in front and moved it up. I'll be an exhaust.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nauticle*
> 
> Hey everyone Im thinking of buying a Enthoo Pro (no window) but can't really figure out the best way of setting up my fans for it.
> 
> First off my specs are:
> i7-860 @ stock (will be ocing to somewhere between 3.6-4.0) with a NH-D14
> 12GB of DDR3 (4GB @ 1333 and 8GB @ 1600)
> EVGA GTX 570 (being replaced by a Sapphire TriX R9 290 or XFX DD R9 290(or x))
> Asus Maximus III Formula
> Silverstone Strider 1000w Silver PSU
> 1 SSD and 5 HDDs
> LG DVD combo drive
> LG Flatron 1080p monitor
> 
> Possible upgrades this year:
> Haswell/Skylake CPU + mobo + ram (if Skylake)
> New monitor (1080p again or 1440p)
> External dvd/bluray drive instead of internal
> 
> Fan wise I have 2x NF-P14 FLX and 1x NF-P12 of which both NF-P14 FLX fans are in use with my NH-D14.
> 
> My current thoughts of setting up my fans are:
> Option 1:
> 2xNF-P14 FLX @ front (intakes)
> 1xPH-F140SP @ bottom (from case, intakes)
> 1xPH-F200SP @ top rear (from case, exhaust)
> 1xNF-P12 and 1xPH-F120 XP/SP (purchased) @ NHD14 in push/pull configuration
> 
> Option 2:
> 1xPH-F200SP @ front (intake)
> 1xNF-P14 FLX @ bottom (intake)
> 1xNF-P14 FLX @ front top (intake)
> 1xPH-F140SP @ rear (exhaust)
> 1xNF-P12 and 1xPH-F120 XP/SP (purchased) @ NHD14 in push/pull configuration
> 
> My biggest concern with these 2 options is the fact that they haven't accounted for the CFM required by my new GPU which I couldn't find. Im fairly certain that these setups would struggle bringing in enough air to satisfy the components and Id really prefer not having to buy another fan on top of the extra 120mm Im already considering.
> 
> A few notes to make helping easier:
> -My RAM are G.Skill Ripjaws which is why I was planning on replacing the 140mm fans on my NHD14 with 120mm ones (clearance issues)
> -Id really prefer not having to buy 2 fans if they are going to cost $20-$30 each
> -Ive read the PWM guide from doyll and about the Phanteks PWM controller but Im confused on the proper setup for it. I understand the 4pin and power setup but the actual connecting fans/regulating them with a program is where Im sort of lost
> -Also Im not sure if the fan I got with my NHD14 was a NF-P14 or NF-P14 FLX
> 
> Any help is greatly appreciated thanks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


Many possible combinations have tried, in the end you will likely find this to be the best regardless of cost:

2x Phanteks F140 SP (front intake)
1x Phanteks 200mm (top exhaust)
1x Phanteks F140SP (rear exhaust)
1x NF-P14FLX (bottom intake)
NF-P14 (center) + NF-P12 (front) on the D14

Expense is only one F140SP ~$15.


----------



## ciarlatano

Finally getting a loop in the EVOLV ATX. All of these larger components that got lost in my Primo are seriously tight. Definitely thinking about going to a Swiftech MCP50X and small res.....having my GTX Nemesis 360 and 280mm UT60 sitting on the shelf is killing me, and there is no way either is going in unless I go to a smaller pump/res or completely abandon using 3.5" drives,,,obviously the pump/res is a much more cost effective option.


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Finally getting a loop in the EVOLV ATX. All of these larger components that got lost in my Primo are seriously tight. Definitely thinking about going to a Swiftech MCP50X and small res.....having my GTX Nemesis 360 and 280mm UT60 sitting on the shelf is killing me, and there is no way either is going in unless I go to a smaller pump/res or completely abandon using 3.5" drives,,,obviously the pump/res is a much more cost effective option.


Are you putting out a video of it. I saw the orginal review but will you do one with the loop in it? Very interested and how the top effects temps compared to the same set up in the luxe. Seeing as the top of the evolv is not removable and has little exhaust/Intake vents. Also just how it was to work with


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Are you putting out a video of it. I saw the orginal review but will you do one with the loop in it? Very interested and how the top effects temps compared to the same set up in the luxe. Seeing as the top of the evolv is not removable and has little exhaust/Intake vents. Also just how it was to work with


I am uploading the video right now. More of a simple guide on sizes and clearances, and some pitfalls, than a review. Link - 




To answer your questions - it was very easy to work in, but (and this is a *huge* but) it is much smaller than one would think. Even having done the air in it, I still underestimated just how small it is, and just how precise you need to be with component selection. Getting the D5 and Photon 170 in together while using the HDD cages was impossible while using any of my larger rads (and being able to do things like fill the res....) - even though my initial test fits made it seem that I could, albeit with no margin for error.

I can't give you an apples-to-apples with the Luxe since I never had this loop in there. Nor did I ever have it in the Primo, since my 280mm UT60 was in my Primo since day one. What I can tell you, is that the Luxe has better airflow without question. Right now I would tell you that I prefer the Luxe - but that is purely tainted by the fact that I own the D5 and Photon. If I had an MCP50X with a tube res attached to the top (or didn't use mechanical drives), I would probably tell you that I prefer the EVOLV ATX. They are incredibly different, and the Luxe is also much larger - probably more than you think it is.


----------



## Blackops_2

I would take the powersupply cover off put the pump down there to clear up a little room. Didn't realize how small the case was. It looks pretty packed. Hell i had planned on two 360mm CoolstreamXEs Push/pull.


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blackops_2*
> 
> I would take the powersupply cover off put the pump down there to clear up a little room. Didn't realize how small the case was. It looks pretty packed. Hell i had planned on two 360mm CoolstreamXEs Push/pull.


that's fine of you don't need 3.5" hard drives.


----------



## Blackops_2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PureBlackFire*
> 
> that's fine of you don't need 3.5" hard drives.


Has me back to thinking. I planned on a strict swap to SSDs to eliminate the space HDDs were taking up, but if they've got holes for the front rad mounts i could jerry rig a HDD in there as well. I love that i can put an SSD on the back of the motherboard tray. But my plan was to switch to a 500gb SSD and move my raptor to the AMD rig. The Caviar Black you see in the photo below is almost 7 years old. It's showing it's age. I like my raptor quite a bit but i have yet to experience SSDs and want to switch to them. I want to buy a motherboard tray SSD mount for my 800D.


Giving it some though i could just do the 240mm bottom rad install on the 800D, put a 120mm on the exit exhaust, and then a 360mm up top and still achieve 120x6 like i want. Would just prefer two 360mms. There again though the 800D's size and weight comes into play. The thing is already a pain to move, couple it with radiators it's going to be that much worse. And again it's gianormous. It towers over my Enthoo Pro. So idk which way i'm leaning. Save 200$ and mod the 800D put up with it, or suck it up try and sell then get the evolv.

Is the Evolv Full Tower or Mid?


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> I am uploading the video right now. More of a simple guide on sizes and clearances, and some pitfalls, than a review. Link -
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To answer your questions - it was very easy to work in, but (and this is a *huge* but) it is much smaller than one would think. Even having done the air in it, I still underestimated just how small it is, and just how precise you need to be with component selection. Getting the D5 and Photon 170 in together while using the HDD cages was impossible while using any of my larger rads (and being able to do things like fill the res....) - even though my initial test fits made it seem that I could, albeit with no margin for error.
> 
> I can't give you an apples-to-apples with the Luxe since I never had this loop in there. Nor did I ever have it in the Primo, since my 280mm UT60 was in my Primo since day one. What I can tell you, is that the Luxe has better airflow without question. Right now I would tell you that I prefer the Luxe - but that is purely tainted by the fact that I own the D5 and Photon. If I had an MCP50X with a tube res attached to the top (or didn't use mechanical drives), I would probably tell you that I prefer the EVOLV ATX. They are incredibly different, and the Luxe is also much larger - probably more than you think it is.


Thanks for the video and info. As always. I have to say I was very excited but now disappointed some for this case. I really thought it would be bigger. I thought two 360s all day with sli cards would fit. It makes my pro look roomy. I like the design but feel it really needs to be stretched alittle bigger in height and length. As I wanted to put my bp 150 tube res with bp pp top combo and ek heatsink for ddc pump between the mobo and front rad. While running two 360 rads with sli Gpus. This is possible it seems with this case but two major things one rad size and two how cramped it would would to the point of just looking bad and running hard line tubing as I would be would either not be possible or just not have he nice clean bends I would want. Sadly it seems I will be taking back my pre order on the case. Which sucks bc I was very excited. I have a pro now and may just get a white luxe for the added rad space and color and go that route. This sucks ...


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blackops_2*
> 
> Has me back to thinking. I planned on a strict swap to SSDs to eliminate the space HDDs were taking up, but if they've got holes for the front rad mounts i could jerry rig a HDD in there as well. I love that i can put an SSD on the back of the motherboard tray. But my plan was to switch to a 500gb SSD and move my raptor to the AMD rig. The Caviar Black you see in the photo below is almost 7 years old. It's showing it's age. I like my raptor quite a bit but i have yet to experience SSDs and want to switch to them. I want to buy a motherboard tray SSD mount for my 800D.
> 
> 
> Giving it some though i could just do the 240mm bottom rad install on the 800D, put a 120mm on the exit exhaust, and then a 360mm up top and still achieve 120x6 like i want. Would just prefer two 360mms. There again though the 800D's size and weight comes into play. The thing is already a pain to move, couple it with radiators it's going to be that much worse. And again it's gianormous. It towers over my Enthoo Pro. So idk which way i'm leaning. Save 200$ and mod the 800D put up with it, or suck it up try and sell then get the evolv.
> 
> Is the Evolv Full Tower or Mid?


it's a mid.


----------



## Nauticle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Many possible combinations have tried, in the end you will likely find this to be the best regardless of cost:
> 
> 2x Phanteks F140 SP (front intake)
> 1x Phanteks 200mm (top exhaust)
> 1x Phanteks F140SP (rear exhaust)
> 1x NF-P14FLX (bottom intake)
> NF-P14 (center) + NF-P12 (front) on the D14
> 
> Expense is only one F140SP ~$15.


Thanks for the reply. My only question now is how do use them correctly with the phanteks pwm hub. Which fan do I use with the FAN1 header and which program should I use to control all them?


----------



## Blackops_2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PureBlackFire*
> 
> it's a mid.


I see so technically it's smaller than the Pro. Hmmm didn't realize this.


----------



## cr1

All that's left is some minor cable-cleanup


----------



## MKHunt

I've had my Primo SE for about a week now (sadly with none of the WC parts I plan to put in it shipped yet...) and it's the black/red version.

Over on modzoo, forum member KSHH painted the mesh inserts of his primo white, which I thought looked quite sharp, even though the contrast was a bit much for me. So I'm curious if anybody has any pics of a black exterior primo with grey mesh inserts. I have some grey that is close to Magpul "Stealth Gray" in a thermal curing ceramic and I'm hoping to gauge the potential payoff before I molest my case.

The SE dual color interior is pretty snazzy, but it's a LOT of one bright color other than black. Since my loop has red, I'm thinking of matte black vinyl over the PSU shroud to contrast with the tubing/coolant.


----------



## murur0a

Guys with Primo, any tips or tricks for fighting the HDD resonance? The rattling makes me want to bin the effer but sadly I cannot, not just yet.

I can sometimes make the sound go away by manually adjusting the drive cage (only top one mounted) a little, but the rattling will eventually return; it's also irksome to have to keep the sidepanel(s) open because of this.

Any advice highly appreciated.


----------



## GhettoFied

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> I am uploading the video right now. More of a simple guide on sizes and clearances, and some pitfalls, than a review. Link -
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To answer your questions - it was very easy to work in, but (and this is a *huge* but) it is much smaller than one would think. Even having done the air in it, I still underestimated just how small it is, and just how precise you need to be with component selection. Getting the D5 and Photon 170 in together while using the HDD cages was impossible while using any of my larger rads (and being able to do things like fill the res....) - even though my initial test fits made it seem that I could, albeit with no margin for error.
> 
> I can't give you an apples-to-apples with the Luxe since I never had this loop in there. Nor did I ever have it in the Primo, since my 280mm UT60 was in my Primo since day one. What I can tell you, is that the Luxe has better airflow without question. Right now I would tell you that I prefer the Luxe - but that is purely tainted by the fact that I own the D5 and Photon. If I had an MCP50X with a tube res attached to the top (or didn't use mechanical drives), I would probably tell you that I prefer the EVOLV ATX. They are incredibly different, and the Luxe is also much larger - probably more than you think it is.


I hate asking, but as a professional reviewer do you have any idea when the Evolv ATX will be available? (North America). Also regarding its size, do you think it will be able to fit very tall air coolers? I have a Cryorig R1 ultimate which I have no plans of changing haha.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GhettoFied*
> 
> I hate asking, but as a professional reviewer do you have any idea when the Evolv ATX will be available? (North America). Also regarding its size, do you think it will be able to fit very tall air coolers? I have a Cryorig R1 ultimate which I have no plans of changing haha.


The only insight I have on the release is pure speculation. There hasn't been any official word from Phanteks on the delay, but I suspect it may be a shipping/customs delay, in which case giving an actual availability date would be impossible.

As far as air cooling.....it just so happens that I had the R1 in this case before installing the loop. There are no worries as far as clearance, the case actually has *194mm* for air coolers. That isn't a misprint, it is cavernous in that regard.

Take a look at the manual. it has tons of info on sizing - http://www.phanteks.com/assets/manuals/Enthoo%20Evolv%20ATX%20Manual%20Western.pdf


----------



## rfarmer

The Evol-iTX has 200mm clearance for coolers, huge for a mini itx case.


----------



## GhettoFied

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> The only insight I have on the release is pure speculation. There hasn't been any official word from Phanteks on the delay, but I suspect it may be a shipping/customs delay, in which case giving an actual availability date would be impossible.
> 
> As far as air cooling.....it just so happens that I had the R1 in this case before installing the loop. There are no worries as far as clearance, the case actually has *194mm* for air coolers. That isn't a misprint, it is cavernous in that regard.
> 
> Take a look at the manual. it has tons of info on sizing - http://www.phanteks.com/assets/manuals/Enthoo%20Evolv%20ATX%20Manual%20Western.pdf


Brilliant! thank you so much for the concise and well worded reply. I love this forum lol.


----------



## Myloween

it's still under building but the Enthoo primo is very interesting and pleasant


----------



## wjturner78

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Myloween*
> 
> it's still under building but the Enthoo primo is very interesting and pleasant


How are you liking those ds fans?


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Well _I_ like them less having to see them a second time.


----------



## wjturner78

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> Well _I_ like them less having to see them a second time.


Sorry I'm on my phone since my laptop charger is broken or I would have spoiled the pics like I normally do....


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Well, no need to quote anything if you are the very next commenter&#8230;

Edit: Yeah see you coulda said "true" without the quote and it would have made total sense!


----------



## wjturner78

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> Well, no need to quote anything if you are the very next commenter...


true...


----------



## By-Tor

Question to anyone sitting next to an Enthoo Primo. I'm at work and can't get the info myself to place the order.

Could someone measure between the drive bay wall and the PSU cover to see if a Hardware Labs Nemesis 360GTX radiator would fit?

The Radiator is 133mm or 5.25" wide.

Thank you


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Finally getting a loop in the EVOLV ATX. All of these larger components that got lost in my Primo are seriously tight. Definitely thinking about going to a Swiftech MCP50X and small res.....


the mcp50 and the res designed for it is around 5.5 inches tall assembled...(rough estimate) I can get you precise measurement if you want


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> the mcp50 and the res designed for it is around 5.5 inches tall assembled...(rough estimate) I can get you precise measurement if you want


Thanks for the info! No need to go through the trouble, I will likely end up moving into the Luxe soon.


----------



## Reaper28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *By-Tor*
> 
> Question to anyone sitting next to an Enthoo Primo. I'm at work and can't get the info myself to place the order.
> 
> Could someone measure between the drive bay wall and the PSU cover to see if a Hardware Labs Nemesis 360GTX radiator would fit?
> 
> The Radiator is 133mm or 5.25" wide.
> 
> Thank you


It will, I'm using Nemesis' rads. There isn't a lot of room to wiggle around with though once the rad is in place that's about it lol also be careful I actually bent a few fins trying to slide it into the case.

EDIT: I'll let somebody post a pic of them measuring, I'm on mobile right now


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Thanks for the info! No need to go through the trouble, I will likely end up moving into the Luxe soon.


I should snap some pictures of my poor pro...it's sitting there panel less and dusty...was originally waiting on my pump rma to put it back together but then decided I.wanted the res that went with it to eliminate two fittings so had to wait on that and now I'm waiting on time to do it because I work next 7 days straight...yay...but I also have to make my acrylic mounts too.. I need one for pump/res one for hard drive and I'm debating on making one for an optical drive...I installed Windows from flash drive last time and it went smoothly but I like having a dvd drive for ripping music and the few games I buy retail...maybe I'll buy a cheap external usb dvd rw drive...

Also h220x anyone considered orienting 240s or 360 rads stacked in the front vertically? I'm considering since I have no drive bays adding two more 240s stacked against each other with fans between them..not sure how they would perform that way though..I do know swiftech makes a few designed to be stacked


----------



## By-Tor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Reaper28*
> 
> It will, I'm using Nemesis' rads. There isn't a lot of room to wiggle around with though once the rad is in place that's about it lol also be careful I actually bent a few fins trying to slide it into the case.
> 
> EDIT: I'll let somebody post a pic of them measuring, I'm on mobile right now


Do you have a Nemesis GTX or Nemesis L-series installed?

I have an L-Series 360mm installed now, but the GTX is 13mm wider..

Thanks


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> I should snap some pictures of my poor pro...it's sitting there panel less and dusty...was originally waiting on my pump rma to put it back together but then decided I.wanted the res that went with it to eliminate two fittings so had to wait on that and now I'm waiting on time to do it because I work next 7 days straight...yay...but I also have to make my acrylic mounts too.. I need one for pump/res one for hard drive and I'm debating on making one for an optical drive...I installed Windows from flash drive last time and it went smoothly but I like having a dvd drive for ripping music and the few games I buy retail...maybe I'll buy a cheap external usb dvd rw drive...
> 
> Also h220x anyone considered orienting 240s or 360 rads stacked in the front vertically? I'm considering since I have no drive bays adding two more 240s stacked against each other with fans between them..not sure how they would perform that way though..I do know swiftech makes a few designed to be stacked


Stacking rads with fans like you described will do little to nothing maybe 1-2 degrees just doesn't work


----------



## wrigleyvillain

The Pro is the first case I never ever _had_ to run panel less even if only for for the first couple days out of impatience or whatever because cable management was simply that much easier and better; I really didn't have to work at it much.


----------



## MKHunt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *By-Tor*
> 
> Do you have a Nemesis GTX or Nemesis L-series installed?
> 
> I have an L-Series 360mm installed now, but the GTX is 13mm wider..
> 
> Thanks


My digital calipers measure 126mm. Others in the thread have fit RX480v3 which is 130mm by removing the wall then reinstalling it after the rad is in place (and removing the lower grommets). I think 133mm might be pushing it a bit too much. But you may be able to remove the connecting screw tab located directly behind the side panel and egg out the front/bottom holes on the case itself and flex the wall outwards. That's my plan if I have trouble with my RX480v3.

Note, if egging holes, only egg the holes on the chassis to preserve the threading on the bay cover.


----------



## By-Tor

I have the 360GTX on the work bench now and was thinking about ordering a 480GTX for the top and use the 360 in the bottom. If the GTX won't work in the bottom then I'll just install it in the top and leave the Nemesis L-series 360 right where its at..

Thanks


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> The Pro is the first case I never ever _had_ to run panel less even if only for for the first couple days out of impatience or whatever because cable management was simply that much easier and better; I really didn't have to work at it much.


well i could have put it back together and taken it all back off again but originally I had planned for a ten day wait...which then became 3 months.. Get to maintenance the loop again when I tear it down too...yay...


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Oh you I thought you meant you were using the computer panel less. Yeah even ten days of that would be enough for a dust farm in mine especially in summer.


----------



## Reaper28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *By-Tor*
> 
> Do you have a Nemesis GTX or Nemesis L-series installed?
> 
> I have an L-Series 360mm installed now, but the GTX is 13mm wider..
> 
> Thanks


I've got a 360 & 240 GTX, they both fit. I've also tested in the Luxe and Pro. I have also seen a few other Hardware Labs rads in the Primo with the side panel and PSU cover installed. Like I said it will be tight though.

EDIT, Again lol. I believe the exact maximum will be 135mm across before it actually hits the panel so as long as you don't plan on running cables or tubing? through the sides of the rad you will be fine.


----------



## By-Tor

I happened to email Phanteks earlier with this very question and just got a reply back.

From Phanteks:

"The widest 360mm or 480mm for the bottom would be 126mm. The widest 140mm or 280mm would be 145mm"

Thanks to those who responded to my question.

reps left...


----------



## Fapman

Just got my case today...... Installed the whole system in the pc and installed sidewindow, it looks greasy in the sides







only in the middle it looks fine.... Very dissapointed about this


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Well&#8230;_that's_ not normal.

(Looks at username&#8230;wonders&#8230;doesn't want to know)

Email Phanteks, man.


----------



## Fapman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> Well&#8230;_that's_ not normal.
> 
> (Looks at username&#8230;wonders&#8230;doesn't want to know)
> 
> Email Phanteks, man.


I live in Finland so i have asked the reseller about this... If they gonna ask to ship the sidepanel or the whole case that i builded for 8 hours, we have a problem in ours hands...

And don't even ask about the username


----------



## Lyxchoklad

I received my ATX mounting tray today to convert my Evolv Matx to ATX, and XSPC new PETG fittings and tubing. I'm waiting for the Fury Nano to release before I start a log.


----------



## MKHunt

Those XSPC fittings look pretty nice. Reminds me of their black chrome compression fittings.


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lyxchoklad*
> 
> I received my ATX mounting tray today to convert my Evolv Matx to ATX, and XSPC new PETG fittings and tubing. I'm waiting for the Fury Nano to release before I start a log.


Interested to see how the xspc fittings and tubing look and work. Usually there cheaper and cost but provide a good product. I'd wouldn't mind some chrome silver ones. What size is the tube same as primochill 1/2 ?


----------



## emsj86

Those who have the luxe when using a 420 up top our there certain brands that won't fit I know hw labs run wide also with ports facing the back side of the case will a fan still fit on the back of the case. I know it's tight with my 360. I ask bc I think I may get a white luxe and ditch my 360 for a 420 and get a coolgate g2 240 for the front and than. Have bp 250ml between the gpu and hdd cages (or where they normally would be)


----------



## Myloween

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wjturner78*
> 
> How are you liking those ds fans?


I have not found other interesting fan to match with my interior setup but I've 4x140mm Phanteks fan at front of the case and 9x120mm Noiseblocker NB-eLoop on my external radiator.
Personally I find them not bad.

The XSPC new PETG fittings look very nice.


----------



## emsj86

If your looking for a fan in the color you like check out the new ek badar ones that will release I. A week or so there all white or all black with matching Sleeving. The white looks very nice and I think would work for you. Also not the best performance but Pravum fans with the black white color look amazing. In a big fan of the ek white badar as there easly able to be painted and I'm a sucker for some white black nb loops


----------



## crafty615

Does anyone know if Enthoo Luxe supports a 480 radiator? i just got mine the other day and I need to know before I order my water cooling loop. I googled everything I could, but all i could find was stuff about the Enthoo Primo and reviews


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crafty615*
> 
> Does anyone know if Enthoo Luxe supports a 480 radiator? i just got mine the other day and I need to know before I order my water cooling loop. I googled everything I could, but all i could find was stuff about the Enthoo Primo and reviews


No it does not max is 420 up top. Than a 240 up front or the floor but can't do both at same time


----------



## Reaper28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *By-Tor*
> 
> I happened to email Phanteks earlier with this very question and just got a reply back.
> 
> From Phanteks:
> 
> "The widest 360mm or 480mm for the bottom would be 126mm. The widest 140mm or 280mm would be 145mm"
> 
> Thanks to those who responded to my question.
> 
> reps left...


I still think that's wrong lol, but all well at least you found out..


----------



## By-Tor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Reaper28*
> 
> I still think that's wrong lol, but all well at least you found out..


When I got home last night I tried to fit the 360GTX between the drive wall and PSU cover and it's not even close. Would take some modding as MKHunt posted, but I'm not willing to do on this new case... Going to leave the Black Ice 360mm L-Series where it's at in the bottom and just replace my 8 y/o Black Ice Extreme 360mm in the top with the new GTX I have and call it good..


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by ****man*
> 
> And don't even ask about the username


lol I just thought was funny cause, uh, greasy hands coulda accounted for the "greasy sides" but obviously you would've known if you had caused it.









Good luck getting it sorted out and all that.


----------



## Faster_is_better

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *By-Tor*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Reaper28*
> 
> I still think that's wrong lol, but all well at least you found out..
> 
> 
> 
> When I got home last night I tried to fit the 360GTX between the drive wall and PSU cover and it's not even close. Would take some modding as MKHunt posted, but I'm not willing to do on this new case... Going to leave the Black Ice 360mm L-Series where it's at in the bottom and just replace my 8 y/o Black Ice Extreme 360mm in the top with the new GTX I have and call it good..
Click to expand...

That would be a nice revision enhancement to the primo, just widen it an extra 5mm+ to allow basically any radiator to fit down at the bottom.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Has anyone bought a primo recently? Did they ever change the hub to sata connection?


----------



## By-Tor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> Has anyone bought a primo recently? Did they ever change the hub to sata connection?


Bought mine about a month ago and it has SATA power for the PWM hub.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *By-Tor*
> 
> Bought mine about a month ago and it has SATA power for the PWM hub.


ok thanks..I'm considering getting the primo just for larger rad support without modding...not that I mind modding something I just have too much crap going on to find the time to actually do it...plus I really like the side mount psu from a cleanliness pov...the more I upgrade the more "how it looks" seem to matter to me...I've totally butchered cases before to fit items that should never fit in...performance is still over looks but looks are starting to factor in now...I'd only pentium 3 me with fans strapped everywhere with rubber bands and holes for ventilation nonchalantly drilled and carved for everything from "cable management" to "extra cooling" could see me now...


----------



## Faster_is_better

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> Has anyone bought a primo recently? Did they ever change the hub to sata connection?


I think that hub has been sata powered for quite a while. Mine has a sata power connection and I bought my case about 7 months ago.


----------



## Reaper28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *By-Tor*
> 
> When I got home last night I tried to fit the 360GTX between the drive wall and PSU cover and it's not even close. Would take some modding as MKHunt posted, but I'm not willing to do on this new case... Going to leave the Black Ice 360mm L-Series where it's at in the bottom and just replace my 8 y/o Black Ice Extreme 360mm in the top with the new GTX I have and call it good..


Out of curiosity, what would actually need to be modded? I even found pics with other HL rads in the Primo and nothing was done to the case to fit a rad that size


----------



## By-Tor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Reaper28*
> 
> Out of curiosity, what would actually need to be modded? I even found pics with other HL rads in the Primo and nothing was done to the case to fit a rad that size


You would need to remove the bolts holding the bottom of the drive bay wall then cut part of the bottom aft edge away to push the panel outboard for the 133mm wide GTX raditor to fit.

I have a Hardware Labs Black Ice L-series 360mm mounted in the bottom now, but it's only 120mm wide and has no problem fitting.


----------



## Reaper28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *By-Tor*
> 
> You would need to remove the bolts holding the bottom of the drive bay wall then cut part of the bottom aft edge away to push the panel outboard for the 133mm wide GTX raditor to fit.
> 
> I have a Hardware Labs Black Ice L-series 360mm mounted in the bottom now, but it's only 120mm wide and has no problem fitting.


Hmm odd, I did some searching yesterday and found two people using current gen. HL rads the Nemesis and the SR1 with the side drive panel and PSU cover installed. Most if not all of HL labs' rads measure at 133mm that's why it keeps bothering me lol


----------



## By-Tor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Reaper28*
> 
> Hmm odd, I did some searching yesterday and found two people using current gen. HL rads the Nemesis and the SR1 with the side drive panel and PSU cover installed. Most if not all of HL labs' rads measure at 133mm that's why it keeps bothering me lol


I did measure the opening last night and it's at just under 5.0" and the GTX is 5.25" wide.


----------



## Sludacris

Phanteks finally announced a release date for the Evolv ATX "available at local retailers July 25th"...https://www.facebook.com/Phanteks
Also, If you order from phanteksusa.com the estimated shipping date is July 27th.

Disappointing because it is exactly what I want/need and I have already been waiting for 2 weeks. Now I am sort of debating whether to get a luxe (didn't really want a full tower this time around) or the Define S...


----------



## GhettoFied

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sludacris*
> 
> Phanteks finally announced a release date for the Evolv ATX "available at local retailers July 25th"...https://www.facebook.com/Phanteks
> Also, If you order from phanteksusa.com the estimated shipping date is July 27th.
> 
> Disappointing because it is exactly what I want/need and I have already been waiting for 2 weeks. Now I am sort of debating whether to get a luxe (didn't really want a full tower this time around) or the Define S...


ughh the wait is real!


----------



## doyll

On another note, I finally got myself a Luxe.
First impression is love .. until I see the bottom filters pull out both front and back.








I hate having to pull case out from under desk to clean the filters. Seems as often as not something gets knocked loose I bang my head, kneel on a tack .. always something. As I was cursing the design engineers and examining the Luxe for more idiot engineers' great ideas I noticed they screwed up and made the track for the filters full length with no stops! And with the front bottom filter removed the PSU filter can slide all the way through and out the front.

Humm.. Checked spacing between filters when installed in case, made a 'spacer' out of something I had the same thickness a filters, then lined up the filters on desk with spacer and taped each side with packaging tape cut to width so it does not cover filter media and now I have one long filter that slides in from the front! Job done! Now I can pull out all the bottom filters from the front, clean and replace without moving the case.









Edit 10/02/15: I noticed the PSU is drawing a little dusty air from behind the filter. I need get the case out and turn it on it's side or over and figure out exactly what the problem is. I'm hoping to only need to add a spacer of about 5mm between the two filters so when it clicks in place from front the PSU filter sets back about 5mm farther back and filters all the air going into PSU.


Now I need to modify the front access hatch to USB sockets so it will mount upside down .. So I don't have to stand on my head trying to see what I'm doing when plugging in a USB stick or headphones.








It can be done, but I will need to cut a couple notches in the case to clear connections, relief the housing for the case screws, remove the indexing nubs, then install being careful to be sure it is aligned properly with the cover.









I'm also going to remove the 120 & 140mm mounting framework from in front of the 200mm fan to see if it quiets and improve the F200HP fan's performance.


----------



## michael-ocn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sludacris*
> 
> Phanteks finally announced a release date for the Evolv ATX "available at local retailers July 25th"...https://www.facebook.com/Phanteks
> Also, If you order from phanteksusa.com the estimated shipping date is July 27th.
> 
> Disappointing because it is exactly what I want/need and I have already been waiting for 2 weeks. Now I am sort of debating whether to get a luxe (didn't really want a full tower this time around) or the Define S...


Finally, great to finally know when I can get my hands on one!

I'm wondering about modding the front and top panels to allow greater airflow, cutting or drilling some venting slots or holes. I understand the airflow is pretty good as is, but those large flat surfaces are begging to be adorned. I haven't seen any pics of evolvs modded in that way, but I'm keeping an eye out for ideas.


----------



## Dimensive

Anyone know if there is a way to switch off the LED's on the Phanteks PWM Fan hub?


----------



## DapperDan795

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GhettoFied*
> 
> ughh the wait is real!


Agreed! I wonder if they will release any SE colors. Their FB page only states black or grey right now.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dimensive*
> 
> Anyone know if there is a way to switch off the LED's on the Phanteks PWM Fan hub?


?

Pretty certain mine has no LEDs (Pro).


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> ?
> 
> Pretty certain mine has no LEDs (Pro).


primo had the black cased one with led...not bare board like the pro


----------



## Dimensive

I bought mine separately from Newegg. Has some bright blue LED's and I was hoping to be able to disable them.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

I see. I would probably end up using electrical tape I guess.


----------



## Dimensive

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> I see. I would probably end up using electrical tape I guess.


That's a good idea, thanks!


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Rep is the best thanks bro!


----------



## GhettoFied

Just preordered the Evolv ATX, has anyone else?


----------



## garethjwilliams

anyone know where I can pick up a castor base from in the UK ?? Much appreciated


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dimensive*
> 
> That's a good idea, thanks!


you can also try black crayola marker...it covers and will come off easy..I used dry erase on my sabers green led to dimm it..


----------



## Sludacris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GhettoFied*
> 
> Just preordered the Evolv ATX, has anyone else?










Did so last night. Now we just have to wait. Did you get anthracite gray or black?


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dimensive*
> 
> That's a good idea, thanks!


Black paint or fingernail polish does a great job too.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *garethjwilliams*
> 
> anyone know where I can pick up a castor base from in the UK ?? Much appreciated


Castor base for what? I need to make myself a couple .. again.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sludacris*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Did so last night. Now we just have to wait. Did you get anthracite gray or black?


So did I.

Love your logo Chevelle . SS 454?


----------



## GhettoFied

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sludacris*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Did so last night. Now we just have to wait. Did you get anthracite gray or black?


Anthracite all day!


----------



## Dimensive

Thanks everyone!

Also, I would like some opinions on the EVOLV mATX case. I own the ITX version and while it's a great case, I felt disappointed by the airflow. I had the 200mm up front (intake), 2 F140SP's up top (intake), and a F120SP (exhaust) on my Corsair H50 rad. With all my bases covered, heat was trapped in the case. Don't know if I am the only one that experienced this, but I would like to know if the airflow is better in the mATX case because it looks great.


----------



## Sludacris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GhettoFied*
> 
> Anthracite all day!


Indeed! I'm really interested to see what some people do with water cooling, especially after watching George Cella's video. Probably go with 2x280 and a small res pump combo?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> So did I.
> 
> Love your logo Chevelle . SS 454?


That is just a generic picture. I had forgot what my avatar even was...But, yeah, my first car was a 70 chevelle red with black stripes, but it had a 427 in it. (and as you can tell I have been lurking a long while just never posted).


----------



## GhettoFied

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sludacris*
> 
> Indeed! I'm really interested to see what some people do with water cooling, especially after watching George Cella's video. Probably go with 2x280 and a small res pump combo?
> That is just a generic picture. I had forgot what my avatar even was...But, yeah, my first car was a 70 chevelle red with black stripes, but it had a 427 in it. (and as you can tell I have been lurking a long while just never posted).


While I'm currently all air cooled and the Cryorig R1 ultimate is taking good care of me, I definitely want to watercool my 290x lightning at some point. I hope to be able to fit a thin 240 up top and have a small pump rad combo where the 3.5in drive cages are.


----------



## Sludacris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dimensive*
> 
> Thanks everyone!
> 
> Also, I would like some opinions on the EVOLV mATX case. I own the ITX version and while it's a great case, I felt disappointed by the airflow. I had the 200mm up front (intake), 2 F140SP's up top (intake), and a F120SP (exhaust) on my Corsair H50 rad. With all my bases covered, heat was trapped in the case. Don't know if I am the only one that experienced this, but I would like to know if the airflow is better in the mATX case because it looks great.


I don't own either so...
I could be wrong, but maybe it would help to have the 2 top 140mm as exhaust? I know the top is probably the restrictive part.
I think the itx and matx are basically the same fan wise and almost the same size (230 mm x 375 mm x 395 mm (W x H x D) and 230 mm x 450 mm x 400 mm (W x H x D)) so you would likely have the same issues.


----------



## Dimensive

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sludacris*
> 
> I don't own either so...
> I could be wrong, but maybe it would help to have the 2 top 140mm as exhaust? I know the top is probably the restrictive part.
> I think the itx and matx are basically the same fan wise and almost the same size (230 mm x 375 mm x 395 mm (W x H x D) and 230 mm x 450 mm x 400 mm (W x H x D)) so you would likely have the same issues.


When I first built with it, I had the top 2 as exhaust. After stability tests or gaming I could open the case and feel the hot air in the middle of the case. So I tried the top two as intakes and got the same result. I gave up and went back to my Arc Mini R2 which has great airflow in comparison. It's a bummer because the build quality is wonderful and I would love to get the mATX version, but the airflow just turns me away.


----------



## bajskanon

Hi guys! New to the forums!

Thinking about building in an evolv mini-ITX, using;

asus z97i plus
evga supernova g2 750
i7 4790k
asus strix 980 ti
kingston HyperX Savage 16GB (2x8GB) CL11 2400Mhz XMP

My question is, can i fit a noctua nh-d15 on this? Haven't seen if anyone has done it and two things worries me a bit.
First being if the width of 150 mm will interfere with the PCIe slot, and second if the length will hinder me from putting a rear exhaust fan.

What do you think?


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bajskanon*
> 
> Hi guys! New to the forums!
> 
> Thinking about building in an evolv mini-ITX, using;
> 
> asus z97i plus
> evga supernova g2 750
> i7 4790k
> asus strix 980 ti
> kingston HyperX Savage 16GB (2x8GB) CL11 2400Mhz XMP
> 
> My question is, can i fit a noctua nh-d15 on this? Haven't seen if anyone has done it and two things worries me a bit.
> First being if the width of 150 mm will interfere with the PCIe slot, and second if the length will hinder me from putting a rear exhaust fan.
> 
> What do you think?


I believe you would need to use the NH-D15*S* to clear the PCIe slot on that board.


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bajskanon*
> 
> Hi guys! New to the forums!
> 
> Thinking about building in an evolv mini-ITX, using;
> 
> asus z97i plus
> evga supernova g2 750
> i7 4790k
> asus strix 980 ti
> kingston HyperX Savage 16GB (2x8GB) CL11 2400Mhz XMP
> 
> My question is, can i fit a noctua nh-d15 on this? Haven't seen if anyone has done it and two things worries me a bit.
> First being if the width of 150 mm will interfere with the PCIe slot, and second if the length will hinder me from putting a rear exhaust fan.
> 
> What do you think?


http://www.overclock.net/t/1549317/build-log-enyo-evolv-itx-i5-4690k-gtx-970

If you look at the first post of this build, the guy originally had a D14 installed, he said he was unable to install a 120X25mm fan in the rear for exhaust. You could probably install a slim fan.

http://www.noctua.at/main.php?show=compatibility_gen&products_id=68&lng=en#LGA1150_Asus

I just checked Noctua's compatibility list and they have the Z97 Plus listed as compatible. I had a H97 Plus itx in my last build with a 120mm tower cooler and there was about 1/2' from the bottom of the cooler to the video card.


----------



## bajskanon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> I believe you would need to use the NH-D15*S* to clear the PCIe slot on that board.


Thanks for the tip - didn't know D15s existed until now. However, looking at the build in the thread rfarmer linked, http://www.overclock.net/t/1549317/lightbox/post/23749989/id/2411370 I can see that it's already very tight between the chassis top and the cooler. As D15S is not only wider but also vertically offset towards the top it feels like there is no chance.

Maybe the best option is to go with NH-U12S to be on the safe side?


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bajskanon*
> 
> Hi guys! New to the forums!
> 
> Thinking about building in an evolv mini-ITX, using;
> 
> asus z97i plus
> evga supernova g2 750
> i7 4790k
> asus strix 980 ti
> kingston HyperX Savage 16GB (2x8GB) CL11 2400Mhz XMP
> 
> My question is, can i fit a noctua nh-d15 on this? Haven't seen if anyone has done it and two things worries me a bit.
> First being if the width of 150 mm will interfere with the PCIe slot, and second if the length will hinder me from putting a rear exhaust fan.
> 
> What do you think?


Motherboard gives you 88mm center CPU toward PCIe socket, 50mm toward RAM and 90+mm toward back of case.
Your RAM is only 30mm tall so no problems there.

I would look at something like the R1 Ultimate or R1 Universal and not run a rear fan at all. Good intake fans will flow the air right on out the back.


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bajskanon*
> 
> Hi guys! New to the forums!
> 
> Thinking about building in an evolv mini-ITX, using;
> 
> asus z97i plus
> evga supernova g2 750
> i7 4790k
> asus strix 980 ti
> kingston HyperX Savage 16GB (2x8GB) CL11 2400Mhz XMP
> 
> My question is, can i fit a noctua nh-d15 on this? Haven't seen if anyone has done it and two things worries me a bit.
> First being if the width of 150 mm will interfere with the PCIe slot, and second if the length will hinder me from putting a rear exhaust fan.
> 
> What do you think?


Are you planning on keeping your hard drive bays? The EVGA psu is over 7" long, if you want to keep the drive bays look for a psu under 6" or you will have clearance problems. You really need the space between the psu and drive bays to tuck away the cable excess. You might look at the EVGA GS 550, it's only 5.91" long and 550 watts is more than enough with a 970.


----------



## TMatzelle60

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817438053&cm_re=EVGA_power_supply-_-17-438-053-_-Product

This will fit fine in the Evolv ITX with the HDD cage


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TMatzelle60*
> 
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817438053&cm_re=EVGA_power_supply-_-17-438-053-_-Product
> 
> This will fit fine in the Evolv ITX with the HDD cage


and the wattage makes more sense for an itx build too.


----------



## Anateus

Primo:
Is it possible to remove that side panel (which covers drive bays/hdd cages)?
Also, whats the max clearance for top 140.3 radiator?
Their site says:
Quote:


> 45mm thick radiator with 25mm thick fans in push/pull configuration for a total of 70mm clearance.


Do they mean 70mm = rad+fans under the rad mount, not counting those over it?

Also, has anyone installed 4 fans in front? I mean 2 in front and 2 on the side near the front.


----------



## By-Tor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anateus*
> 
> Is it possible to remove that side panel (which covers drive bays/hdd cages)?
> Also, whats the max clearance for top 140.3 radiator?
> Their site says:
> Do they mean 70mm = rad+fans under the rad mount, not counting those over it?
> 
> Also, has anyone installed 4 fans in front? I mean 2 in front and 2 on the side near the front.


I have a 54mm thick rad and 25mm fans mounted with no problem and the top (pull) fans are above the case.

I also have 4 x140mm fans mounted up front and side as intake.


----------



## Anateus

Is it possible to fit 266.7mm XSPC Razor waterblock with the res mount + XSPC Photon (72mm wide) installed?


----------



## By-Tor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anateus*
> 
> Is it possible to fit 266.7mm XSPC Razor waterblock with the res mount + XSPC Photon (72mm wide) installed?


links please...


----------



## GhettoFied

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Motherboard gives you 88mm center CPU toward PCIe socket, 50mm toward RAM and 90+mm toward back of case.
> Your RAM is only 30mm tall so no problems there.
> 
> I would look at something like the R1 Ultimate or R1 Universal and not run a rear fan at all. Good intake fans will flow the air right on out the back.


+1 for Cryorig coolers. Why sacrifice aesthetics for the same cooling capacity!


----------



## Anateus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anateus*
> 
> Is it possible to fit 266.7mm XSPC Razor waterblock with the res mount + XSPC Photon (72mm wide) installed?


http://www.xs-pc.com/reservoirs/photon-170-tube-reservoir

http://www.xs-pc.com/waterblocks-gpu/razor-gtx-titan-780-780ti

I might just change the card when changing the case, but I'd rather stick to my old 780 Ti.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anateus*
> 
> http://www.xs-pc.com/reservoirs/photon-170-tube-reservoir
> 
> http://www.xs-pc.com/waterblocks-gpu/razor-gtx-titan-780-780ti
> 
> I might just change the card when changing the case, but I'd rather stick to my old 780 Ti.


Yes - I used that combination. You can use either the front or rear res mounts. You need to drill the mounting holes if you use the front, and it just barely fits. It fits in the rear res mount with no issues.


----------



## Joe-Gamer

Where is the cheapest place to get the primo in the UK? £180 for rev 2 on ebay.


----------



## Anateus

So, if I recall it correctly. Side panel that covers hdd cages can be removed. What about drive bays? Are they removable?


----------



## arrow0309

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Joe-Gamer*
> 
> Where is the cheapest place to get the primo in the UK? £180 for rev 2 on ebay.


Not a perfect time to get the Enthoo Primo:

http://pricespy.co.uk/product.php?pu=2181759

I got it for about a month and a half from the amazon (but sold by Scan) at ~ £150








However it seems you can get it right now at £173.20 free delivery *here*


----------



## Joe-Gamer

Thanks for the links







whats the difference between the rev 2 and rev 1?
Also does this case dampen sound well, is it a 'quiet case'?


----------



## arrow0309

I don't know the difference between the two of them, I've the rev 1 version and I'm pretty satisfied of it

The case might just not be one of the quietest but it's a great choice for an wc big tower (at this price, half of the 900D for instance), the airflow is fine and I'm sure it can do a lot on air-cooling as well








The 140mm stock fans are a bit noisy at med and high speeds (I have 2 more PH-F140SP_BK_BLED in P/P on my top 280 XT45 rad, that makes 7 fans) and if you either downvolt them with a rheobus or with the stock pwm hub (using it right now via cpu fan1 + mainboard pwm control + extra speedfan manual control) they become even silent when not needed


----------



## Joe-Gamer

Thanks for the reply, much appreciated!
Any views on the luxe? Bit smaller but still large, my wc loop isn't big enough to for the primo I think. (240 and a 360 rad cpu). As long as its a bit quieter than my corsair C70 I'll be happy


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Joe-Gamer*
> 
> Thanks for the reply, much appreciated!
> Any views on the luxe? Bit smaller but still large, my wc loop isn't big enough to for the primo I think. (240 and a 360 rad cpu). As long as its a bit quieter than my corsair C70 I'll be happy


what rads do you have? 360+240 is perfect fit for the Luxe. a 40mm 360 you can do push'pull and 45mm with some motherboards. no limit on 240 rad thickness in front or bottom. bottom mounted you can even keep one hard drive cage in.


----------



## Joe-Gamer

I have a xspc 240mm 3cm thick and a 360 monsta 8cm thick. I may sell the monsta for a thinner model though. Can I hide my pump behind the shrouds also?


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Joe-Gamer*
> 
> Thanks for the reply, much appreciated!
> Any views on the luxe? Bit smaller but still large, my wc loop isn't big enough to for the primo I think. (240 and a 360 rad cpu). As long as its a bit quieter than my corsair C70 I'll be happy


Primo is very big. I have both Luxe and Primo .. reason is Primo is just too big for some of the places I want it to go. Luxe is not small and is very well organized too. Of course the Evolv ATX will be available in less than a month now too ..


----------



## zerophase

Anyone know the largest tube res that will fit in an Enthoo Primo with a 60mm radiator in the bottom?


----------



## Jedicake

Hi everyone, this has probably been talked to death, but is there any retailers that offer Enthoo Primo clear window replacements?

I had a revelation last night of why the red liquid in my PC looks so awful, because of the white lighting... and i wouldn't need the white lighting if the case wasn't so tinted.


----------



## By-Tor

This site lists them, but none in stock yet.

http://mnpctech.com/


----------



## Jedicake

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *By-Tor*
> 
> This site lists them, but none in stock yet.
> 
> http://mnpctech.com/


Damn! They're such a tease!!

Bookmarking this for sure. Ty


----------



## Anateus

I want to get 2x140mm fans in the front and put 240 rad on the side of Primo. Whats the max clearance for that to not obstruct much airflow from 140's (I want air from them to go straight to 240 rad).


----------



## Nikboss1986

Hello everyone!
I've just purchased and Enthoo Primo white edition, and i'm about to purchase the radiators to fit in a custom WC loop. I'm planning to buy 2X480mmm rad -> Coolgate G2 Radiator 10 FPI - 480mm: they are 120mm wide then there should be no problem. I need your help though because i'm not sure if I will be able to mount them in a push/pull configuration: do you think i can? I have an ASUS x99 Deluxe mobo.
Thank you

Nick


----------



## crafty615

Hello, do any Luxe owners out there have the separately sold LED strip for the interior? If so, did you go with 1m or 2m? I feel like 2m is too long, but at the same time 1m is way too short. Eventually I might get a black light for when I have my water cooling setup with UV tubing, and want to make sure I have room.

Oh and also, where did you mount the LED strip??


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jedicake*
> 
> Hi everyone, this has probably been talked to death, but is there any retailers that offer Enthoo Primo clear window replacements?
> 
> I had a revelation last night of why the red liquid in my PC looks so awful, because of the white lighting... and i wouldn't need the white lighting if the case wasn't so tinted.


Yeah I think the window tint is like my only major complaint&#8230;I guess they were trying to do something different but it was a bad idea.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crafty615*
> 
> Hello, do any Luxe owners out there have the separately sold LED strip for the interior? If so, did you go with 1m or 2m? I feel like 2m is too long, but at the same time 1m is way too short. Eventually I might get a black light for when I have my water cooling setup with UV tubing, and want to make sure I have room.
> 
> Oh and also, where did you mount the LED strip??


I did the 1M along the bottom and up the front next to the side panel. Gives a very nice look without being overly bright.

The two meter makes a complete lap around teh side panel, the one meter does two sides.


----------



## Anateus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anateus*
> 
> I want to get 2x140mm fans in the front and put 240 rad on the side of Primo. Whats the max clearance for that to not obstruct much airflow from 140's (I want air from them to go straight to 240 rad).


Anyone? Would appreciate any live photos if possible


----------



## crafty615

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> I did the 1M along the bottom and up the front next to the side panel. Gives a very nice look without being overly bright.
> 
> The two meter makes a complete lap around teh side panel, the one meter does two sides.


Would you be able to post some pictures? so i can see how you left room for the psu cover.


----------



## Faster_is_better

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *arrow0309*
> 
> I don't know the difference between the two of them, I've the rev 1 version and I'm pretty satisfied of it
> 
> The case might just not be one of the quietest but it's a great choice for an wc big tower (at this price, half of the 900D for instance), the airflow is fine and I'm sure it can do a lot on air-cooling as well
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The 140mm stock fans are a bit noisy at med and high speeds (I have 2 more PH-F140SP_BK_BLED in P/P on my top 280 XT45 rad, that makes 7 fans) and if you either downvolt them with a rheobus or with the stock pwm hub (using it right now via cpu fan1 + mainboard pwm control + extra speedfan manual control) they become even silent when not needed


What's the difference between Rev. 1 and Rev 2? Just small stuff like the PWM hub or something more noticeable?


----------



## cr1

When I got my 'Pro', I installed (2) 140's in the front, but the top 140 was partially blocked so I put in a Bitfenix 200mm LED fan instead-

I did install (2) 120mm fans on the inside (drive cages) and ghetto-rigged a third above those, behind the fan controller and optical drive









All LED fans are green, it's like my rig looks radioactive


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Sorry all mention of the "pwm" hub is BANNED

(Heh just a little Monday morning comic relief&#8230;really doe you should not even call it a "pwm" hub cause Phanteks should not have either&#8230;_oh god I'm doing iiiit_)


----------



## Anateus

Voltage hub!


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> Sorry all mention of the "pwm" hub is BANNED
> 
> (Heh just a little Monday morning comic relief&#8230;really doe you should not even call it a "pwm" hub cause Phanteks should not have either&#8230;_oh god I'm doing iiiit_)


I have only been a member here a short time and I can tell this is a soar subject. I almost got the Phanteks fan hub when I bought my Evol-iTX. Really glad I went a different way.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rfarmer*
> 
> I have only been a member here a short time and I can tell this is a soar subject. I almost got the Phanteks fan hub when I bought my Evol-iTX. Really glad I went a different way.


It's a strangely sore subject.....if you take it for what it is, and use it for its intended purpose, it works very well. When I was running ten fans on radiators I found it a godsend.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crafty615*
> 
> Would you be able to post some pictures? so i can see how you left room for the psu cover.


The space between the PSU cover and the ridge for the sidepanel is exactly wide enough for the strip.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

It just results in far more questions than something like it should-and thus thread length-starting with the confusion resulting from the "pwm" part (but not ending there).

And sure it's decent and a nice addition to the case if, yes, you have like ten fans and no other means by which you'd prefer to control them. Also can assist cable management.


----------



## doyll

I'm not impressed with the F200SP fan. Maybe mine is defective too, but it ticks, wobbles, vibrates, and doesn't move as much air in open airflow as F140SP. Add to this the restrictive 140mm and 200mm fan mounting plate over the 200mm fan in Pro and Luxe and there are potential airflow / noise problems

Edit:
Phanteks' *PWM controlled 3-pin fan hub with PSU powe*r is a great hub. Problem is many users do not understand how P/WM functions .. and with Phanteks calling it a PWM Hub .. well lots of confusion. Add to this all the _motherboards that claim PWM control_ when they are not PWM at all .. or are pulsed 12v fan headers _which are not PWM fan headers_.


----------



## emsj86

Personally I don't mind the "pwm" fan hub. As I used it from the get go with 3 pin fans and sometimes even my leds to speed or dim lights.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Are you saying you also powered 12V LEDs with it? If so, cool.

And, yeah, what doyll said. Notice his use of the edit feature, as well.


----------



## TMatzelle60

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> I'm not impressed with the F200SP fan. Maybe mine is defective too, but it ticks, wobbles, vibrates, and doesn't move as much air in open airflow as F140SP. Add to this the restrictive 140mm and 200mm fan mounting plate over the 200mm fan in Pro and Luxe and there are potential airflow / noise problems
> 
> Edit:
> Phanteks' *PWM controlled 3-pin fan hub with PSU powe*r is a great hub. Problem is many users do not understand how P/WM functions .. and with Phanteks calling it a PWM Hub .. well lots of confusion. Add to this all the _motherboards that claim PWM control_ when they are not PWM at all .. or are pulsed 12v fan headers _which are not PWM fan headers_.


Going to have to agree with that part i noticed that some hubs like the swiftech 8 fan hub when i had a Z97 build done for someone did not work at all


----------



## Anateus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anateus*
> 
> I want to get 2x140mm fans in the front and put 240 rad on the side of Primo. Whats the max clearance for that to not obstruct much airflow from 140's (I want air from them to go straight to 240 rad).


Anyone? Come on, Primo owners


----------



## TheSilentNoob

did you order through overclockers or scan?


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TMatzelle60*
> 
> Going to have to agree with that part i noticed that some hubs like the swiftech 8 fan hub when i had a Z97 build done for someone did not work at all


Swiftech PWM hub is a good PWM hub. It only splits the PWM signal to the fans and uses 12v from PSU for power. Like the Phanteks one, it needs a true PWM signal to control fan speed.


----------



## TMatzelle60

^ yep totally true is there any way to know before buying


----------



## owcraftsman

+-

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nikboss1986*
> 
> Hello everyone!
> I've just purchased and Enthoo Primo white edition, and i'm about to purchase the radiators to fit in a custom WC loop. I'm planning to buy 2X480mmm rad -> Coolgate G2 Radiator 10 FPI - 480mm: they are 120mm wide then there should be no problem. I need your help though because i'm not sure if I will be able to mount them in a push/pull configuration: do you think i can? I have an ASUS x99 Deluxe mobo.
> Thank you
> 
> Nick


I use a 420x65mm thick rad in the top of my Primo on a MSI Z87G45 Gaming and fitted a MSI Z97 Gaming 7. On the ASUS x99 Deluxe the 8pin would be hard to reach w/o removing a fan but I think it would work. Push pull is not an issue in the top or bottom. As a matter of fact the bottom has no issue with a monsta in push/pull however you don't want a rad down there wider that 126mm in width or you will have to modify.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crafty615*
> 
> Hello, do any Luxe owners out there have the separately sold LED strip for the interior? If so, did you go with 1m or 2m? I feel like 2m is too long, but at the same time 1m is way too short. Eventually I might get a black light for when I have my water cooling setup with UV tubing, and want to make sure I have room.
> 
> Oh and also, where did you mount the LED strip??


I'd recommend the 2m which can be cut to length desired.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anateus*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Anateus*
> 
> I want to get 2x140mm fans in the front and put 240 rad on the side of Primo. Whats the max clearance for that to not obstruct much airflow from 140's (I want air from them to go straight to 240 rad).
> 
> 
> 
> Anyone? Come on, Primo owners
Click to expand...

It's hard to understand exactly what you are trying to figure out but I'll take a stab at it. To comfortably fit a rad mounted on the right side of a Primo you have 8cm for fans and rad or it will interfere with anything mounted in the bottom of the case but how 140s mounted in the front would blow directly into a rad mounted in the side is not possible unless I don't understand the question. GL


----------



## MrPatate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crafty615*
> 
> Hello, do any Luxe owners out there have the separately sold LED strip for the interior? If so, did you go with 1m or 2m? I feel like 2m is too long, but at the same time 1m is way too short. Eventually I might get a black light for when I have my water cooling setup with UV tubing, and want to make sure I have room.
> 
> Oh and also, where did you mount the LED strip??


Got the 2M in two different Luxe and don't regret it one bit. 1M would probably give an uneven lighting. 2M isn't that bright (maybe if you use White/Blue colors in a very dark room...).

I started at the top back (so the 6" cable goes trough the CPU power grommet holes, then go toward the windowed side panel, drop on channel where the side panel sits (otherwise you won't clear the rear fan), bottom, front side, top front to top back (missing 4" to completely go to the back).


----------



## Anateus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *owcraftsman*
> 
> It's hard to understand exactly what you are trying to figure out but I'll take a stab at it. To comfortably fit a rad mounted on the right side of a Primo you have 8cm for fans and rad or it will interfere with anything mounted in the bottom of the case but how 140s mounted in the front would blow directly into a rad mounted in the side is not possible unless I don't understand the question. GL


I want to supply fresh air from front 140s to 240 rad fans on the side, thats how I see it:


I just dont want to pick too long rad that will end in front of the middle of 140s, thus obstructing the airflow.
So 80mm rad+fans is max to mount 120 fan on the floor?


----------



## crafty615

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrPatate*
> 
> Got the 2M in two different Luxe and don't regret it one bit. 1M would probably give an uneven lighting. 2M isn't that bright (maybe if you use White/Blue colors in a very dark room...).
> 
> I started at the top back (so the 6" cable goes trough the CPU power grommet holes, then go toward the windowed side panel, drop on channel where the side panel sits (otherwise you won't clear the rear fan), bottom, front side, top front to top back (missing 4" to completely go to the back).


I ended up getting the 1M LED strip, my main reasoning is cause after I get my water cooled loop set up, I will have UV tubing so I will be adding a UV light also and I feel like the 2M strip + UV light would be overkill and the lights would mix weird.


----------



## DapperDan795

Hey Folks,

Quick question about the Luxe. If a 360 rad was installed in the top with fans on the bottom of rad would the top 5.25 bay still be able to hold a fan controller without being blocked? I would assume the 2 bottom 5.25 bays would remain unaffected.

Thanks!


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DapperDan795*
> 
> Hey Folks,
> 
> Quick question about the Luxe. If a 360 rad was installed in the top with fans on the bottom of rad would the top 5.25 bay still be able to hold a fan controller without being blocked? I would assume the 2 bottom 5.25 bays would remain unaffected.
> 
> Thanks!


depends on how deep the controller is...I think a few here have done that


----------



## DapperDan795

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> depends on how deep the controller is...I think a few here have done that


Ok thanks. It's a short one not like the full length plastic sides.


----------



## crafty615

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DapperDan795*
> 
> Hey Folks,
> 
> Quick question about the Luxe. If a 360 rad was installed in the top with fans on the bottom of rad would the top 5.25 bay still be able to hold a fan controller without being blocked? I would assume the 2 bottom 5.25 bays would remain unaffected.
> 
> Thanks!


What rad you putting in? Going to get a 360 for my luxe eventually but not sure what thickness to go for


----------



## DapperDan795

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crafty615*
> 
> What rad you putting in? Going to get a 360 for my luxe eventually but not sure what thickness to go for


Honestly not sure. Still weighing out some options. Probably EK 40mm thick if I go the custom loop route and a monsoon dual bay res.


----------



## fireincairo

Can someone help me out with radiator clearances for the top of the *Enthoo Luxe*? I'd like to cram as much as possible up top with push/pull configuration, so I'd like to buy a 420mm. From what I've read, top radiator clearance to motherboard is:

Benchmark Review 69.85mm to motherboard
Guru 3D 65mm to Motherboard
Does that include the top space for fans? Meaning 70 - 25 (fan 1) = 40mm radiator clearance in push, or only 15mm clearance for push/pull? That would make no sense...

_Planned loop_

*Radiators*:
- 420mm ?
- 240mm Alphacool monsta (?) (in front)
- if needed, 120mm but I'd rather avoid the extra clutter and cost
*Pump*: Swiftech mcp655
*Blocks*:
- XSPC Raystorm
- EK-FC Titan X full cover
*Fans*:
- Corsair sp120/af120 quiet edition or performance edition (if necessary) in push/pull configuration
*Reservoir*: Phobya Balancer 150 Nickel
*PSU*: EVGA 1000W or 1200W PS
*Tubing*: Primoflex LRT Advanced (10' of 3/8"-5/8")

_Current system_

-i5-3570k @ 4.2ghz from 3.4ghz
-2-way SLI Titan X (EVGA Superclocked)
-Gigabyte ga-z77-ud3h
-24GB corsair vengeance DDR3 1600mhz ram (heatsinks may present a clearance issue with a larger radiator)
-SSDx2
-HDDx1


----------



## Joe-Gamer

Will my 80mm thick, 360mm long radiator fit in the Luxe with fans on it?


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Joe-Gamer*
> 
> Will my 80mm thick, 360mm long radiator fit in the Luxe with fans on it?


No with fans max is 69mm. No monsta for the luxe


----------



## crafty615

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DapperDan795*
> 
> Honestly not sure. Still weighing out some options. Probably EK 40mm thick if I go the custom loop route and a monsoon dual bay res.


ahh okay, originally i was thinking the RX360 but i heard that was too thick if you plan on using fans. so now i'm leaning towards AX360 and doing push/pull if the fans fit and if not just doing push.


----------



## Joe-Gamer

Ah damn, this rad doesn't fit in anything haha, going to have to sell it for a slim 360!


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crafty615*
> 
> ahh okay, originally i was thinking the RX360 but i heard that was too thick if you plan on using fans. so now i'm leaning towards AX360 and doing push/pull if the fans fit and if not just doing push.


The RX360 fits in the Luxe with fans on top only without a problem. Since it is lower FPI, it tends to work very well in push or pull only.


----------



## crafty615

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> The RX360 fits in the Luxe with fans on top only without a problem. Since it is lower FPI, it tends to work very well in push or pull only.


And it only sacrifices 1 drive bay? This changes things haha


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fireincairo*
> 
> Can someone help me out with radiator clearances for the top of the *Enthoo Luxe*? I'd like to cram as much as possible up top with push/pull configuration, so I'd like to buy a 420mm. From what I've read, top radiator clearance to motherboard is:
> 
> Benchmark Review 69.85mm to motherboard
> Guru 3D 65mm to Motherboard
> Does that include the top space for fans? Meaning 70 - 25 (fan 1) = 40mm radiator clearance in push, or only 15mm clearance for push/pull? That would make no sense...
> 
> _Planned loop_
> 
> *Radiators*:
> - 420mm ?
> - 240mm Alphacool monsta (?) (in front)
> - if needed, 120mm but I'd rather avoid the extra clutter and cost
> *Pump*: Swiftech mcp655
> *Blocks*:
> - XSPC Raystorm
> - EK-FC Titan X full cover
> *Fans*:
> - Corsair sp120/af120 quiet edition or performance edition (if necessary) in push/pull configuration
> *Reservoir*: Phobya Balancer 150 Nickel
> *PSU*: EVGA 1000W or 1200W PS
> *Tubing*: Primoflex LRT Advanced (10' of 3/8"-5/8")
> 
> _Current system_
> 
> -i5-3570k @ 4.2ghz from 3.4ghz
> -2-way SLI Titan X (EVGA Superclocked)
> -Gigabyte ga-z77-ud3h
> -24GB corsair vengeance DDR3 1600mhz ram (heatsinks may present a clearance issue with a larger radiator)
> -SSDx2
> -HDDx1


max push/pull setup in the Luxe is a 420x40mm rad or a 360x45mm rad (dpending on your motherboard a bit more is possible). there is no limit on how thick the 240 rad can be in the front or bottom.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Joe-Gamer*
> 
> Will my 80mm thick, 360mm long radiator fit in the Luxe with fans on it?


no.


----------



## Cysquatch

Ok I did some searching on this thread, and on the site and really couldn't find an answer. How big of a res can fit in the Phanteks Enthoo Pro? I'm getting my parts list together for my custom loop. And I'm having a hard time finding info or pictures on what types of reservoirs will fit. I have a single sapphire R9 290, so it wont fit up against the drive cages. Any help is appreciated.


----------



## SolidSnakeUS

Okay, I have to ask, and this is probably the best place.

I'm probably going to pick up the Enthoo Pro more than anything. However, would it be fine to drop down in price to the Fractal Design Define S or do you think it's worth every penny to go for an Enthoo Evolv ATX? I'm so stuck on what case I want







.


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SolidSnakeUS*
> 
> Okay, I have to ask, and this is probably the best place.
> 
> I'm probably going to pick up the Enthoo Pro more than anything. However, would it be fine to drop down in price to the Fractal Design Define S or do you think it's worth every penny to go for an Enthoo Evolv ATX? I'm so stuck on what case I want
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


The Define S would be fine. Space efficiency is better than the pro and price is much less than the evolv atx. If you don't need an optical drive or a bunch of hard drives I'd get the Define S.


----------



## SolidSnakeUS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PureBlackFire*
> 
> The Define S would be fine. Space efficiency is better than the pro and price is much less than the evolv atx. If you don't need an optical drive or a bunch of hard drives I'd get the Define S.


The only thing is that the window quality is not very good, but I may get one without a window? I dunno, but trying to think of all the options. I'm picky like that haha.


----------



## PureBlackFire

It's like every case comes with a crap window lately. Get the solid panel and make your own window.


----------



## SolidSnakeUS

I wish I was good enough to make my own windows lol.


----------



## Sem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fireincairo*
> 
> Can someone help me out with radiator clearances for the top of the *Enthoo Luxe*? I'd like to cram as much as possible up top with push/pull configuration, so I'd like to buy a 420mm. From what I've read, top radiator clearance to motherboard is:
> 
> Benchmark Review 69.85mm to motherboard
> Guru 3D 65mm to Motherboard
> Does that include the top space for fans? Meaning 70 - 25 (fan 1) = 40mm radiator clearance in push, or only 15mm clearance for push/pull? That would make no sense...
> 
> _Planned loop_
> 
> *Radiators*:
> - 420mm ?
> - 240mm Alphacool monsta (?) (in front)
> - if needed, 120mm but I'd rather avoid the extra clutter and cost
> *Pump*: Swiftech mcp655
> *Blocks*:
> - XSPC Raystorm
> - EK-FC Titan X full cover
> *Fans*:
> - Corsair sp120/af120 quiet edition or performance edition (if necessary) in push/pull configuration
> *Reservoir*: Phobya Balancer 150 Nickel
> *PSU*: EVGA 1000W or 1200W PS
> *Tubing*: Primoflex LRT Advanced (10' of 3/8"-5/8")
> 
> _Current system_
> 
> -i5-3570k @ 4.2ghz from 3.4ghz
> -2-way SLI Titan X (EVGA Superclocked)
> -Gigabyte ga-z77-ud3h
> -24GB corsair vengeance DDR3 1600mhz ram (heatsinks may present a clearance issue with a larger radiator)
> -SSDx2
> -HDDx1


i have a luxe and a Rampage V extreme and a 420 30mm rad in the top

with the R5E 30mm is the only thickness that would fit as the heatsink on the R5E IO area will block one of the ports with 360 mm its no issue as you can move it forward slightly

i orginally planned 60mm 420 in pull only in the top but then had to get 30mm instead

of course if you move the ports to drive bay area or have a mobo without a HS over the IO area you should be ok with 60mm but will be tight but imo your better off with 30mm p/p to be safe


----------



## owcraftsman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anateus*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *owcraftsman*
> 
> It's hard to understand exactly what you are trying to figure out but I'll take a stab at it. To comfortably fit a rad mounted on the right side of a Primo you have 8cm for fans and rad or it will interfere with anything mounted in the bottom of the case but how 140s mounted in the front would blow directly into a rad mounted in the side is not possible unless I don't understand the question. GL
> 
> 
> 
> I want to supply fresh air from front 140s to 240 rad fans on the side, thats how I see it:
> 
> 
> I just dont want to pick too long rad that will end in front of the middle of 140s, thus obstructing the airflow.
> So 80mm rad+fans is max to mount 120 fan on the floor?
Click to expand...

The confusion is when you say side but the hand drawing depicts front. See Illustration below for front of case rad mounting options or seek out the videos and reviews of the case to get a general feel for all it's capability. You could even search this thread for many of the answers to questions you've been asking.



If you are wanting to install a front rad in exhaust orientation and supply it with air from fans mounted in the bottom of the case in intake orientation they would feed air to it but not "directly". The Primo holds up to a 480 in the bottom. If you mount a rad in the front it will take up a portion of that area, no less than that designated for a 120mm fan, let's say the first of 4 available slots leaving 3 open slots for fans in front of that rad. Because fan mounts are fixed the closest fan mounted in the bottom in this scenario would be at least 120mm away leaving the same for rad and push/pull fans. By my calculations up to a 70mm thick rad. In any case with the illustration above, google and OCN search I'm certain you will find your answer in the event I once again got it all wrong deciphering your question

edit:

Okay even if I interpret your drawing as a side mounted rad with a 140mm fan in the front of the case the answer is in the illustration you have 8cm to the 140mm fan side but in no way is it directly feeding the side rad of course it would help provide air to it and it would not interfere with the side mounted rad meaning you can decide to go past the side of the 140mm front fan behind it into the case as far as you want.


----------



## Anateus

Aw my bad. I uploaded a photo without "front" and "side" signs, but I see you managed to see through it. The last example you provided is what I mean







thanks for the help.


----------



## crafty615

So I got my Enthoo Luxe LED strip, but when I got it, the plastic covering the adhesive side kept falling off so the adhesive strip must have gotten dirty because the ends of the strip keep falling off of where I have it stuck to.

Is there a way to make it sticky again? I don't want to use something that's so permanent that it damages the case if I ever want to take it off.


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crafty615*
> 
> So I got my Enthoo Luxe LED strip, but when I got it, the plastic covering the adhesive side kept falling off so the adhesive strip must have gotten dirty because the ends of the strip keep falling off of where I have it stuck to.
> 
> Is there a way to make it sticky again? I don't want to use something that's so permanent that it damages the case if I ever want to take it off.


3M double sided tape. it seems they still haven't fixed the adhesive on these. they need to just make it magnetic.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bill Owen*
> 
> Mnpctech is only workshop making the clear panels for Phanteks. Enthoo Primo version will be listed 1 - 2 weeks
> 
> Video of Pro & Luxe version


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wjturner78*
> 
> Mnpctech is the only place i go to for phanteks specific mods. I'm trying to finish my build on time for the quakecon contest and havent been able to post updated pics of the rig yet but I am using mnpc fan grills and if they make a primo window I will be first in line to get my hands on one. Bill and the guys over at mnpc are top notch, and are truly phanteks fans like all of us in this thread...


As said, Bill and Mnpctech are top tier suppliers of quality bits as well as great customer support.








And the do the best reviews too.


----------



## doyll

They are about the only ones that really know what they are doing and check radiator, pump, etc. fit.









Makes a big difference knowing what actually does and doesn't work.


----------



## MKHunt

I wonder when mnpctech will debut the custom logo plates? I'd love to submit a design and get one lasered for my primo.


----------



## Reaper28

Question for people watercooling, what size screws did you guys use to mount the fans and rads to the case? specifically the Luxe. It looks like the included screws for my rads are about 2-3mm to short. They are M4 and appear to me 30mm long, I guess 32mm screws would be long enough without puncturing the rads?


----------



## zerophase

How's the Enthoo Primo fan splitter compare to the Swiftech fan splitter? Swiftech's is true PWM and the Enthoo one isn't right? Is it fine to connect all of my fans my fan controller and leave the motherboard fan slot empty?


----------



## Faster_is_better

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Reaper28*
> 
> Question for people watercooling, what size screws did you guys use to mount the fans and rads to the case? specifically the Luxe. It looks like the included screws for my rads are about 2-3mm to short. They are M4 and appear to me 30mm long, I guess 32mm screws would be long enough without puncturing the rads?


How could they be short? On the Primo at least the metal is really thin so a 30mm screw on a 25mm fan should have plenty of bite on the radiator.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zerophase*
> 
> How's the Enthoo Primo fan splitter compare to the Swiftech fan splitter? Swiftech's is true PWM and the Enthoo one isn't right? Is it fine to connect all of my fans my fan controller and leave the motherboard fan slot empty?


Watch out for the







asking questions like that here...

Swiftech splitter is a real PWM fan splitter yes, all 8 of the outputs have a PWM signal. The Enthoo fan splitter uses PWM signal from motherboard (same as Swiftech) and then converts it to voltage regulation for fans.

If you don't plug in any fan controller to your motherboard, Swiftech or Enthoo, then all your fans will run 100% speed all the time.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zerophase*
> 
> How's the Enthoo Primo fan splitter compare to the Swiftech fan splitter? Swiftech's is true PWM and the Enthoo one isn't right? Is it fine to connect all of my fans my fan controller and leave the motherboard fan slot empty?


Comparing the Swiftech and Phanteks hubs is like comparing lemons and strawberryies. The first two are both are fan hubs and the second two are both fruit, but that is about it.

Swiftech 8-way PWM hub is for spitting PWM fans using PWM signal from one source and 12v power from another to sent PWM signal and 12v power to 4-pin fans. .

Phanteks hub uses a PWM signal from one source and 12v power from anther to and lower the voltage to control 3-pin variable voltage fans.


----------



## zerophase

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Comparing the Swiftech and Phanteks hubs is like comparing lemons and strawberryies. The first two are both are fan hubs and the second two are both fruit, but that is about it.
> 
> Swiftech 8-way PWM hub is for spitting PWM fans using PWM signal from one source and 12v power from another to sent PWM signal and 12v power to 4-pin fans. .
> 
> Phanteks hub uses a PWM signal from one source and 12v power from anther to and lower the voltage to control 3-pin variable voltage fans.


Thanks, guess I'm picking up another swiftech hub or a Silverstone hub. Just need to wait for my radiators to come off of pre-order.


----------



## zerophase

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Faster_is_better*
> 
> How could they be short? On the Primo at least the metal is really thin so a 30mm screw on a 25mm fan should have plenty of bite on the radiator.
> Watch out for the
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> asking questions like that here...
> 
> Swiftech splitter is a real PWM fan splitter yes, all 8 of the outputs have a PWM signal. The Enthoo fan splitter uses PWM signal from motherboard (same as Swiftech) and then converts it to voltage regulation for fans.
> 
> If you don't plug in any fan controller to your motherboard, Swiftech or Enthoo, then all your fans will run 100% speed all the time.


I have a Swiftech PWM fan splitter plugged into my Aquaero 6 XT, and I can still control the fans just fine. Though, the power I'm feeding to my 2,000 RPM fans isn't a complete match. To get my fans down to 800 RPM or so I need to drop the power fed to them to 35% or so, while I thought 50% should have been half. But, then again that might be something on the Noctua's end.


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Reaper28*
> 
> Question for people watercooling, what size screws did you guys use to mount the fans and rads to the case? specifically the Luxe. It looks like the included screws for my rads are about 2-3mm to short. They are M4 and appear to me 30mm long, I guess 32mm screws would be long enough without puncturing the rads?


I don't know which rads you have so I can't say how much clearance you have on your specific one in terms of not hitting the fins, but I know that my Alphacool rads come with 30mm long 3mm screws for just fitting fans to the rad itself, which leaves at least 5mm clearance to the rad fins since the fans are 25mm thick. So I would say 35mm screws if your 30mm ones are 1-2mm to short. That said you could always use a caliper to check the distance between the casing and the fins on the rad.


----------



## Reaper28

^^^^

No idea, I'm using Black Ice Nemesis' rads and the fan screws included can mount the fan to the rad but no way in hell it's going through a case there is barely 1mm of screw left which isn't even close enough to securing the rad. I guess I will have to hit up a Home Depot on Saturday and buy some new ones. The screw seems to be 30mm long at least from tip to tip but looks about 28mm from under the screw head to the end which I find odd


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Reaper28*
> 
> ^^^^
> 
> No idea, I'm using Black Ice Nemesis' rads and the fan screws included can mount the fan to the rad but no way in hell it's going through a case there is barely 1mm of screw left which isn't even close enough to securing the rad. I guess I will have to hit up a Home Depot on Saturday and buy some new ones. The screw seems to be 30mm long at least from tip to tip but looks about 28mm from under the screw head to the end which I find odd


As @Rainmaker91 stated, 35mm is what you want to look for. That is the size that is typically included with rads for mounting to the case. I'm surprised the Nemesis didn't have a set, I could swear mine came with them - if the box was on hand I would check.


----------



## Reaper28

Thanks for the help guys, I'm a watercooling noobie. I want to get the build finished it's been a nightmare so far. I wonder if the EK fan's are thicker than the SP's that I tested before where is seemed I would have no problem mounting to the case


----------



## zerophase

Does anyone know if a 400 mm or 250 mm tube res will fit in the rear of the enthoo primo, in the res mounting holes, between the rear fan and 110 mm of radiator and fans in the bottom?


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zerophase*
> 
> I have a Swiftech PWM fan splitter plugged into my Aquaero 6 XT, and I can still control the fans just fine. Though, the power I'm feeding to my 2,000 RPM fans isn't a complete match. To get my fans down to 800 RPM or so I need to drop the power fed to them to 35% or so, while I thought 50% should have been half. But, then again that might be something on the Noctua's end.


I don't know how strong the Aquaero PWM signals are, but one of the reasons the Swiftech is 8-way is because 8-10 fans is usually about all a single PWM signal can control.


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zerophase*
> 
> Does anyone know if a 400 mm or 250 mm tube res will fit in the rear of the enthoo primo, in the res mounting holes, between the rear fan and 110 mm of radiator and fans in the bottom?


Hight wise the Primo can hold up to a 500mm reservoir if you truly want it to, but that requires you to use fairly thin rads. Now that said I think a 250mm res between the bottom rad and the top rad is entirelly possible,but you may have troubles mounting it with the rear fan mounted.

Seeing as you ask instead of just figure it out on your own I assume you are about to order everything together then? if not then I would simply recommend at he very least getting the case first and then do some measuring with a ruler to see where things will fit. When it comes to tube reservoirs they usually have all the needed measurements for you to figure out if it will fit







But really when you start stuffing the Primo full of WC stuff it gets somewhat cramped after a while, not as cramped as a miditower but you do see that there are limits as to how much even this case can hold.


----------



## MKHunt

Also on the tube res make sure the width is appropriate. Wide reservoirs like the XSPC photon may have clearance issues as shown in the modzoo primo video.


----------



## zerophase

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> Hight wise the Primo can hold up to a 500mm reservoir if you truly want it to, but that requires you to use fairly thin rads. Now that said I think a 250mm res between the bottom rad and the top rad is entirelly possible,but you may have troubles mounting it with the rear fan mounted.
> 
> Seeing as you ask instead of just figure it out on your own I assume you are about to order everything together then? if not then I would simply recommend at he very least getting the case first and then do some measuring with a ruler to see where things will fit. When it comes to tube reservoirs they usually have all the needed measurements for you to figure out if it will fit
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But really when you start stuffing the Primo full of WC stuff it gets somewhat cramped after a while, not as cramped as a miditower but you do see that there are limits as to how much even this case can hold.


Yeah, I think I'm going to order the tube res after everything else comes. I'm going to get everything installed, and then figure out which additional fittings I need along with it. I'm guessing the rear fan should stay on for airflow. It feels like no matter how large the case is there's always a reason to make one slightly larger.

My Enthoo Primo just came in today. Can't wait for the radiators and blocks to come in in two weeks.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MKHunt*
> 
> Also on the tube res make sure the width is appropriate. Wide reservoirs like the XSPC photon may have clearance issues as shown in the modzoo primo video.


Thanks I didn't think about that.


----------



## emsj86

Anyone have any pro luxe water cool builds they haven't posted it posted in awhile. Looking to get some ideas of what people our doing. I m looking to tear down my case to re build the loop or get a new case. Wanna see some stuff that isn't stock. Here's mine now and I want something different or more.


----------



## Trestles126

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Anyone have any pro luxe water cool builds they haven't posted it posted in awhile. Looking to get some ideas of what people our doing. I m looking to tear down my case to re build the loop or get a new case. Wanna see some stuff that isn't stock. Here's mine now and I want something different or more.


http://s12.photobucket.com/user/tre...C173C924-B32E-43C5-9A41-7B14E8BC17C6.jpg.html

I added a aquatube res to the window of my old luxe build ... Urs looks pretty rad


----------



## Mark011

I'm finally settled in UK and had time to finish my build. Added an Aquaero 5 LT on the back as last step, here some pictures of the final result, more will comes in the next days!

Hardware

CPU: INTEL i7 4790K
MB: ASUS Z97 MAXIMUS IMPACT VII
RAM: AVEXIR BLITZ 1.1 1600MHZ 2x4GB
VGA: ZOTAC GTX 980
SSD: PX-G128M6e + SAMSUNG EVO 850 500GB
HDD: WD GREEN 2.5' 2TB
PSU: SEASONIC SNOW SILENT 1050W PLATINUM
CASE: PHANTEKS EVOLV ITX

Liquid Cooling

CPU: SWIFTECH Apogee XL Black Body
VGA: SWIFTECH KOMODO-NV-GTX9
PUMP: SWIFTECH MCP50X
RADIATORS: 2 x ALPHACOOL ST30 240MM
RESERVOIR: ALPHACOOL CAPE CORP 10LT
FITTINGS: COOLFORCE
FAN: 4 x CORSAIR SP120 HP + 1 x CORSAIR AF140 Quiet Ed
CONTROLLER: AQUACOMPUTER AQUAERO 5LT


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mark011*
> 
> I'm finally settled in UK and had time to finish my build. Added an Aquaero 5 LT on the back as last step, here some pictures of the final result, more will comes in the next days!
> 
> Hardware
> 
> CPU: INTEL i7 4790K
> MB: ASUS Z97 MAXIMUS IMPACT VII
> RAM: AVEXIR BLITZ 1.1 1600MHZ 2x4GB
> VGA: ZOTAC GTX 980
> SSD: PX-G128M6e + SAMSUNG EVO 850 500GB
> HDD: WD GREEN 2.5' 2TB
> PSU: SEASONIC SNOW SILENT 1050W PLATINUM
> CASE: PHANTEKS EVOLV ITX
> 
> Liquid Cooling
> 
> CPU: SWIFTECH Apogee XL Black Body
> VGA: SWIFTECH KOMODO-NV-GTX9
> PUMP: SWIFTECH MCP50X
> RADIATORS: 2 x ALPHACOOL ST30 240MM
> RESERVOIR: ALPHACOOL CAPE CORP 10LT
> FITTINGS: COOLFORCE
> FAN: 4 x CORSAIR SP120 HP + 1 x CORSAIR AF140 Quiet Ed
> CONTROLLER: AQUACOMPUTER AQUAERO 5LT
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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Beautiful build, looks so good in white. Can't imagine how much fun it must have been with all the compression fittings in that confined space. Can you share your temps?


----------



## Stizuner

Is the EVOLV ATX available yet? I'm looking to buy it but find find it available anywhere. Thanks!!


----------



## MKHunt

Wish I still had the patience to do SFF builds like that. I'm typically more in favor of bent tubing over fittings, but with the black and white that's really clean.

I'd imagine temps are quite acceptable with quad rad for a single gpu and cpu.


----------



## SirJim

Does anyone know if on the Luxe, one can locate one of the hard drive cages over to the bottom 120mm fan location in order to allow for more airflow in? Similar to the 760T.


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stizuner*
> 
> Is the EVOLV ATX available yet? I'm looking to buy it but find find it available anywhere. Thanks!!


Phanteks store states ESTIMATED SHIPPING DATE 07/27/2015.


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SirJim*
> 
> Does anyone know if on the Luxe, one can locate one of the hard drive cages over to the bottom 120mm fan location in order to allow for more airflow in? Similar to the 760T.


no, that's one drawback of having the exclusively accessed from the rear side of the case.


----------



## Phaedrus89

So I picked up a Primo 2 weeks ago and I'm in love with the case. I'm in the process of sourcing the parts for a nice loop and was directed here for case specific questions. I have a Gigabyte gtx970 G1 and was curious if the EK waterblock would fit with the reservoir mounting bracket. My goal is to use the bracket for a pump/res combo. As is, the wind force cooler Is 12" long or so and I have the bracket removed in order to fit the card. the PCB itself looks 9-10" and looks like it might fit with the bracket installed assuming the waterblock isn't longer than 10" although it's a tight fit...
Next thing I'm hoping for suggestions on is lighting the case using the LED strip provided molex connector attached to the LED switch. I know for best results of case illumination and UV exposure of tubing I need CCFL's but the inverter leads look really short and hookup to a bracket with a switch (at least the logisys ones do) my goal is to power either 2 12" CCFL or 2 LED blue strips to illuminate the case well and expose the UV Blue tubing I plan to use.

Last thing i hope to clarify is maximum top mounted radiator thickness with a sabertooth z77. I'm either going with an Alphacool 360 or 480mm RAD but I want to know the max thickness of a rad in push pull with 25mm fans before bumping into the thermal armor.

Thanks In advanced! I love this case


----------



## Mark011

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rfarmer*
> 
> [/SPOILER]
> 
> Beautiful build, looks so good in white. Can't imagine how much fun it must have been with all the compression fittings in that confined space. Can you share your temps?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MKHunt*
> 
> Wish I still had the patience to do SFF builds like that. I'm typically more in favor of bent tubing over fittings, but with the black and white that's really clean.
> 
> I'd imagine temps are quite acceptable with quad rad for a single gpu and cpu.


Temps are good enough, the cpu is delidded, the GPU reached 55 degree after 10 min of valley, but usually stays around 50 with 1450mhz overclock (reference 980), i'd say quite acceptable, it was 80 degree with reference cooler. PUMP is at 25% 1800rpm, rad's fans are at 1000rpm


----------



## Stizuner

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rfarmer*
> 
> Phanteks store states ESTIMATED SHIPPING DATE 07/27/2015.


Thanks!!


----------



## Reaper28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> As @Rainmaker91 stated, 35mm is what you want to look for. That is the size that is typically included with rads for mounting to the case. I'm surprised the Nemesis didn't have a set, I could swear mine came with them - if the box was on hand I would check.


One quick stupid question, I guess the thread is 0.7?

Edit** Never mind, 6/32 lol


----------



## Native89

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SirJim*
> 
> Does anyone know if on the Luxe, one can locate one of the hard drive cages over to the bottom 120mm fan location in order to allow for more airflow in? Similar to the 760T.


Optical bay adapters maybe? Someone suggested them before and that's what I'm running now with 2 HDD's in the optical bay and 2 SSD's out back.

I'm aircooled so I welcome the new real estate, but I feel like I need new fans now. The stock Phanteks fans (2x140mm) I have in the front are good at pulling in air, though they don't direct the air very well to my GPU and CPU unless I run them at ~1000-1200 rpm which is a little too noisy for me.
So I am currently looking for some airflow optimised fans to replace them.


----------



## emsj86

I know that everytime a new case from phanteks release they say with improvements from what our customers asked for. So I'm throwing this out there. I want a luxe or pro similar style and looks maybe a few tweaks here and there like a true pwm hub but mainly remove optical bays and hdd trays have two hdd and 4 ssd brackets for the back of the mobo (have the mobo go in like the define a to do this) than have a full case better quality clear window. So than for what I really want mounting for a 360 up front. So you can do a 240 floor 360 front and 360 top. Or 240 bottom 240/80 front and 420 top. With res mounts and pump mounts similar to the define s. Now that would improve on everything with the luxero which is allready a good case


----------



## SirJim

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Native89*
> 
> Optical bay adapters maybe? Someone suggested them before and that's what I'm running now with 2 HDD's in the optical bay and 2 SSD's out back.
> 
> I'm aircooled so I welcome the new real estate, but I feel like I need new fans now. The stock Phanteks fans (2x140mm) I have in the front are good at pulling in air, though they don't direct the air very well to my GPU and CPU unless I run them at ~1000-1200 rpm which is a little too noisy for me.
> So I am currently looking for some airflow optimised fans to replace them.


That's what I was thinking. I don't have a store near me to look at the case but was thinking of removing one of the hard drive cages and mounting it to the bottom fan holes. From the pictures I've seen it looks as if it would work. This would free up space for the front fan to really push some air through to the gpu.


----------



## maskymus

I'm not aware if anyone shared such mod for Enthoo Primo looks, so I want to share this to public.

Make it real for Phanteks Enthoo Primo owners







:
full RGB illumination module based on SMD5050 leds.
A small video teaser for non-believers (sorry for the focus







):


Spoiler: Info



I'll make an update and share all info in my build log with a lot of photos when I finish installation and wiring for both front and top parts as it's still in testing stage. RGB leds emit too much heat at 12V (especially white) and there is no metal parts in those little holders to dissipate it so I need to find a compromise between voltage/light to prolongue led lifespan cycle. There is also a problem with the installation itself which I currently try to eliminate as it damages the strip soldering causing the whole module not working or wrong color emission.


----------



## Trexxit

anyone used the asus x99-ws board in the luxe or pro?


----------



## Jhexp

Any word on the clear side panel instead of the smokey Perspex?


----------



## MKHunt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phaedrus89*
> 
> So I picked up a Primo 2 weeks ago and I'm in love with the case. I'm in the process of sourcing the parts for a nice loop and was directed here for case specific questions. I have a Gigabyte gtx970 G1 and was curious if the EK waterblock would fit with the reservoir mounting bracket. My goal is to use the bracket for a pump/res combo. As is, the wind force cooler Is 12" long or so and I have the bracket removed in order to fit the card. the PCB itself looks 9-10" and looks like it might fit with the bracket installed assuming the waterblock isn't longer than 10" although it's a tight fit...
> Next thing I'm hoping for suggestions on is lighting the case using the LED strip provided molex connector attached to the LED switch. I know for best results of case illumination and UV exposure of tubing I need CCFL's but the inverter leads look really short and hookup to a bracket with a switch (at least the logisys ones do) my goal is to power either 2 12" CCFL or 2 LED blue strips to illuminate the case well and expose the UV Blue tubing I plan to use.
> 
> Last thing i hope to clarify is maximum top mounted radiator thickness with a sabertooth z77. I'm either going with an Alphacool 360 or 480mm RAD but I want to know the max thickness of a rad in push pull with 25mm fans before bumping into the thermal armor.
> 
> Thanks In advanced! I love this case


I have two titans on the sabertooth z77 and with ek blocks they fit with maybe .5-1cm to spare with the bracket mounted (but cover OFF). You'll have to measure the actual PCB. You'll need to be careful about the reservoir size, too. Mine fit with a Bitspower z-multi reservoir which is about the same outer diameter as an EK tube res. You may consider how any potential aftermarket tube clamps hold it as well. The default bitspower clamps fasten on the outer screw holes of the bracket and that's how I achieved clearance (the center hole is not used) but different mounting mechanisms may shift the tube off center of the pre-drilled holes on the mount bracket.

As for top clearance, you'll have ~80mm between the board and the roof inside the chassis. A monsta will fit in push/pull only (with fans mounted in the top area under the filter or an xt series will fit push/pull.


----------



## Reaper28

Here is a good size warning for Luxe and Pro owners lol. I literally had to cram the res in then slide both GPU's in sideways to fit with barely 2mm of space left and the pump is actually touching the bottom rad.
Mobo is ATX
GPU's are 980's
Res - Bitspower 150, Pump EK D5
(sorry for bad quality, had to use my S4)


----------



## MKHunt

If it fits, it sits, right?


----------



## Phaedrus89

Thanks for the help. I think I'll go for the 480x60mm rad knowing i can fit it in push pull with the top 4 fans under the filter.
I checked with EK support and they stated that the block was actually shorter than the card's PCB, so the length of the PCB apprx 10'' should just fit with barely any room to spare.
Looks like a max of 70mm diameter res will fit assuming its centered when mounting on the bracket with the cover removed.
From pictures I've seen of some rigs, looks like I can fit the XSPC tube there comfortably.

Do most primo owners use the included fan controller for the RAD fans? or does it make more sense to buy an actual 4pin PWM controller so I can use the 4pin EK Vadar fans?
I have no attachment to any particular fan, I just heard good things about the Vadar until I saw they were 4 pin. I don't have 8x 4pin headers on my board. Maybe someone could recommend some other fans?

Lastly, does anyone have any suggestions for powering LED strips with the included 12v molex LED strip connector on the case? Am I going to need to solder my own strips and make my own connector or can I find Darkside UV LED strips with molex/molex splitters on them?


----------



## Speng

sup,

Anyone successfully moded the Primo to accomodate any of the HWLabs 153 mm wide 420s in the top?

The width of the drive bays looks like ~151 mm and the bloody radiator clocks in at 153 mm.









Sure, I got a dremel but wouldnt really like to compromise case rigidity by removing the bays so was thinking of doing cut outs to accomodate the 153 mm width of the radiator.

Tbqh It doesnt inspire me, really. just that it's a shame I have to put in inferior models and makes because of a few millimeters of sheet metal.

Make me happy, someone and tell me it s a pice of cake no brainer.


----------



## MKHunt

Fan controller outputs are DCV and NOT PWM. The phanteks hub just translates PWM signal to DC voltage.

I am using vardars and SP120s and decided to use a swiftech PWM hub instead of the phanteks controller. Technically the vardars can run on DCV but it may wear the motors prematurely. If you wish to use the hub, look to Nidec Servo Gentle Typhoons.

The LED controller in the case does not output via the molex connector. That is used by the controller for input power. The LED outputs are the tiny 2-pin connectors near the top front corner labeled "Fan LED X". They are ~6 inches long.

I couldn't figure out what pin style they were nor could I find specifications for the max allowable current on the LED controller so my SM5050 led strip lighting is connected to my Lamptron CW611 (36WPC) on a dedicated channel as is my koolance PMP-500 for a small amount of allowable dimming. This way there is no chance of burning out the other case LEDs or the controller; which are much harder to source than readily available fan connectors and cheap LED strips. With a controller like the CW611 or any other automatic controller, you can also set voltage profiles based on ambient or coolant temps (with a multi-port res and some coolant temp endcaps http://www.amazon.com/XSPC-Plug-Sensor-Black-Chrome/dp/B00CMR3CC2/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1436279214&sr=8-2&keywords=xspc+10k ) so that current case lighting is an indicator of coolant temperature or ambient temperature. You can also override the lighting this way. I liked this idea since the Primo's front door would cover any active temp display anyway and I dislike on-screen overlays. I don't know what connectors the Darkside LEDs use.

I think the photon and aqualis WILL require modding. The photon uses a 2-screw mount and the required spacing places the holes to either side of the center drilled hole location. An easy task, but just a heads-up that you will be drilling and fastening the brackets on the back with nuts. Shown in this video here. 




ETA: As for fitting wide rads in the top, you should be able to squeeze them in. I fit a 133mm RX480 in the bottom when my caliper measured 126mm of space. The sheet metal has a bit of give, but count on unfastening the window side of the 5.25 plate, installing the rad in a twisting motion, and then carefully re-fastening the plate.


----------



## scoobied77

Seeing as the Primo was launched in in 2013 does anyone know when the Primo 2 is coming out?

I know there was a slight revision version and the SE but I'm not counting that as it's still the 'old' design.

I would of thought it must be due as this case has been out for a couple of years now.


----------



## Faster_is_better

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *maskymus*
> 
> I'm not aware if anyone shared such mod for Enthoo Primo looks, so I want to share this to public.
> 
> Make it real for Phanteks Enthoo Primo owners
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> :
> full RGB illumination module based on SMD5050 leds.
> A small video teaser for non-believers (sorry for the focus
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ):
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Info
> 
> 
> 
> I'll make an update and share all info in my build log with a lot of photos when I finish installation and wiring for both front and top parts as it's still in testing stage. RGB leds emit too much heat at 12V (especially white) and there is no metal parts in those little holders to dissipate it so I need to find a compromise between voltage/light to prolongue led lifespan cycle. There is also a problem with the installation itself which I currently try to eliminate as it damages the strip soldering causing the whole module not working or wrong color emission.


Nice work, so far it seems most 5050 led strips are to fat to fit into that space, at least from one of the worklogs I read that was a big problem in replacing the top strip in the Primo. Definitely looking forward to your instructions on how to fit that in there. Of course Phanteks should just take a hint from this and start using a real RGB strip across all their cases with led accenting. Makes matching color schemes so much easier and it wouldn't likely be a big deal on their end to change over.

It's almost like this thread needs a huge disclaimer before every first post..

*THE PHANTEKS "PWM" HUB ISN"T ACTUALLY A PWM HUB**
*uses PWM signal to produce voltage control


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *maskymus*
> 
> I'm not aware if anyone shared such mod for Enthoo Primo looks, so I want to share this to public.
> 
> Make it real for Phanteks Enthoo Primo owners
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> :
> full RGB illumination module based on SMD5050 leds.
> A small video teaser for non-believers (sorry for the focus
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ):
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Info
> 
> 
> 
> I'll make an update and share all info in my build log with a lot of photos when I finish installation and wiring for both front and top parts as it's still in testing stage. RGB leds emit too much heat at 12V (especially white) and there is no metal parts in those little holders to dissipate it so I need to find a compromise between voltage/light to prolongue led lifespan cycle. There is also a problem with the installation itself which I currently try to eliminate as it damages the strip soldering causing the whole module not working or wrong color emission.


Looks very nice! Am interested in how you are doing this install.


----------



## Phaedrus89

Thanks for the info!
The Nidec Servo Gentle Typhoons look great, a bit on the pricey side but they have 3 pin connectors so I can hook them up to the controller and make a custom curve on the CPU_Header.
That is ideal. As for the LEDs, it makes sense now that you mention that molex is another 12v input rather than power output as my multi meter was reading nothing on the molex pins. I may be dead wrong but it looks like the LED fan connectors 3-6 (1&2 being used by front intake) are 2 pin JST connections.

These?? http://www.amazon.com/VIMVIP-Pairs-Plug-Connector-Female-100mm/dp/B00N8VLOXA/ref=sr_1_10?s=toys-and-games&ie=UTF8&qid=1436290998&sr=1-10&keywords=2pin+JST&pebp=1436292151423&perid=1GVNRC49SC0AJX6CTS6W

I like the idea of a separate 5.25'' bay controller for feedback from the loop itself. That may be something i would consider in the future, for now I'm just going to have to find a way to connect those 2 pin connectors to some LED strips. I can't imagine 2 UV LED strips pulling too much amperage for the LED controller...
I'll see if I can contact Phanteks and find out exactly what those pins are called so i can relay that to support at PPCS and see if I can get an adapter for the Darkside strips.
Seems like an awful lot of hassle just to control case LEDs with the included switch. I mean after all, why give you all those LED leads wired to a switch if you couldn't easily attach them.

What would you recommend as far as Res/Pump combos go that will fit on the bracket and give my GPU enough room? Looking for something with a Liang D5 pump preferably.
For example: http://www.performance-pcs.com/ek-xres-140-d5-vario-incl-pump.html
Would more options be available for mounting if I just do a separate pump and res? Looks like combos limit me to XSPC and EK, then the rest are 5.25'' bays.

Lastly, again thanks for all your help and patience. What would be a good Fan/LED controller for 8 fans in push/pull and be able to control case lighting?
This will be kind of my last option to ensure everything works the way I want it to should I exhaust my other options. How many watts per channel would be needed?
This would expand the range of fans I can use as well.


----------



## Faster_is_better

Someone figured out what that connector was for the LED's and posted what they were in this thread. That was a while ago, probably like 30-40 pages back. You might search the thread and see.

I think the Phanteks fan hub is only rated for 30w, so you just have to figure out what each of your fans max power draw is X8 and see if it is compatible.

A dedicated bay controller is a much more solid option, many choices for voltage controlled 5.25" fan controllers.


----------



## TMatzelle60

or the nzxt grid +


----------



## maskymus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phaedrus89*
> find out exactly what those pins are called


If anyone is interested in the connectors then here you have (Primo case):
for 12V power input / led strip out: on board JST PHDR-08VS / JST B8B-PHDSS with pins JST SPHD-002T or JST SPHD-001T.
for FanLED connectors: on board JST PHDR-12VS / JST B12B-PHDSS with pins JST SPHD-002T or JST SPH-001T; end led connectors: JST SMR-02V-B with pins SYM-001T / JST SMP-02V-BC with pins SHF-001T


----------



## Phaedrus89

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *maskymus*
> 
> If anyone is interested in the connectors then here you have (Primo case):
> for 12V power input / led strip out: on board JST PHDR-08VS / JST B8B-PHDSS with pins JST SPHD-002T or JST SPHD-001T.
> for FanLED connectors: on board JST PHDR-12VS / JST B12B-PHDSS with pins JST SPHD-002T or JST SPH-001T; end led connectors: JST SMR-02V-B with pins SYM-001T / JST SMP-02V-BC with pins SHF-001T


Perfect! Thank you!

Now If I can somehow find LED strips that have these JST SMP-02V-BC I'll be in good shape!


----------



## Trestles126

Can the entho pros be converted to enthoo luxes if the panels are swapped top and front? I have my phanteks luxe case lying around and I don't want to ship the hole thing thinking about offering the panels on eBay but wasn't sure if u could "turn" your pro into a luxe by simply snapping the luxe panels on


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trestles126*
> 
> Can the entho pros be converted to enthoo luxes if the panels are swapped top and front? I have my phanteks luxe case lying around and I don't want to ship the hole thing thinking about offering the panels on eBay but wasn't sure if u could "turn" your pro into a luxe by simply snapping the luxe panels on


yes the chassis are identical just the panels and the hub are different


----------



## Trestles126

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> yes the chassis are identical just the panels and the hub are different


Thank you sir

Food for thought


----------



## Faster_is_better

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phaedrus89*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *maskymus*
> 
> If anyone is interested in the connectors then here you have (Primo case):
> for 12V power input / led strip out: on board JST PHDR-08VS / JST B8B-PHDSS with pins JST SPHD-002T or JST SPHD-001T.
> for FanLED connectors: on board JST PHDR-12VS / JST B12B-PHDSS with pins JST SPHD-002T or JST SPH-001T; end led connectors: JST SMR-02V-B with pins SYM-001T / JST SMP-02V-BC with pins SHF-001T
> 
> 
> 
> Perfect! Thank you!
> 
> Now If I can somehow find LED strips that have these JST SMP-02V-BC I'll be in good shape!
Click to expand...

You can't just find some premade connectors, cut off the ends and wire/solder them together?


----------



## scoobied77

Well I've just taken the plunge. Ordered a Primo SE Red.

My Luxe is not quite big enough for my needs so the extra space will be welcome.


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *scoobied77*
> 
> Well I've just taken the plunge. Ordered a Primo SE Red.
> 
> My Luxe is not quite big enough for my needs so the extra space will be welcome.


Are you selling the luxe by any chance?


----------



## Phaedrus89

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Faster_is_better*
> 
> You can't just find some premade connectors, cut off the ends and wire/solder them together?


I hate the idea of cutting off connectors and adding these on. Worst case scenario I'll do it.

I've messaged PPCS to see what the cost is to wire 2 darkside LED UV strips to these SMP-02V-BC connectors.


----------



## OneSeeker

Need help,

ek x-res 140 combo can mount without modify in luxe?


----------



## Reaper28

Alright, stupid question #13575. I went to Home Depot to buy new screws for my rads (Black Ice Nemesis') now they appear to be too long by who guessed it 1-2mm so once I make a secure mount I will end up puncturing the rad. Can somebody give me the exact dimensions of screws I would need lol to mount the rad and 25mm fans to the bottom and top of the case (Luxe). FrozenCPU had everything I needed and simply labeled but now they're closed I'm screwed (no pun intended).

I bought 6-32 x 1 1/2 for those wondering. Thanks again guys, this is my first watercooling build and so far it's been a nightmare.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Reaper28*
> 
> Alright, stupid question #13575. I went to Home Depot to buy new screws for my rads (Black Ice Nemesis') now they appear to be too long by who guessed it 1-2mm so once I make a secure mount I will end up puncturing the rad. Can somebody give me the exact dimensions of screws I would need lol to mount the rad and 25mm fans to the bottom and top of the case (Luxe). FrozenCPU had everything I needed and simply labeled but now they're closed I'm screwed (no pun intended).
> 
> I bought 6-32 x 1 1/2 for those wondering. Thanks again guys, this is my first watercooling build and so far it's been a nightmare.


Black Ice rads have no tubing below the screws, worst case is that you will bend the fins - you will not puncture the rad. They do not have screw shields for exactly this reason.


----------



## Reaper28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Black Ice rads have no tubing below the screws, worst case is that you will bend the fins - you will not puncture the rad. They do not have screw shields for exactly this reason.


I'd like to avoid doing that if possible, I guess M4 x .07 x 30mm screws would be better then?


----------



## scoobied77

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Are you selling the luxe by any chance?


Yes I will be selling it as I will have no use for it, plus its in good condition, boxed etc


----------



## Phaedrus89

So no luck with PPCs being able to custom make the LED strips to use those connectors to wire them to the cases fan JST connectors.
I'm curious if any primo owners have had any luck with powering case lighting and controlling it with the LED switch. That's really my only goal here, power and control case lighting.
Did Phanteks intend to only have users use their own LED Fans on those 6 spare JST SMR-02V-Bc connectors?

I might have my luck trying to solder these onto a small piece of 5050 led strip and see if the case will power it before I purchase the UV LEDs

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00VG967B0?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=ox_sc_act_title_1&smid=A1THAZDOWP300U


----------



## emsj86

Has anyone done acrylic panels other than w turner for say mother board or inside of the case. If so could you post a picture I have a idea in my head of button my pro side panel to a full panel, than making an acrylic panel that goes under the mobo and runs from the front I back to too to bottom if the case. Than cutting only the cable holes needed. Than cut my front panel use modders mesh and use a home made bracket and mount a 360 rad up front. Off set the roof rad and go for a thicker rad (this last one I may not do). Just want to get some tips. Where do people get there colored acrylic 3mm sheets in the us that don't cost as much as the case


----------



## Ironsmack

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phaedrus89*
> 
> So no luck with PPCs being able to custom make the LED strips to use those connectors to wire them to the cases fan JST connectors.
> I'm curious if any primo owners have had any luck with powering case lighting and controlling it with the LED switch. That's really my only goal here, power and control case lighting.
> Did Phanteks intend to only have users use their own LED Fans on those 6 spare JST SMR-02V-Bc connectors?
> 
> I might have my luck trying to solder these onto a small piece of 5050 led strip and see if the case will power it before I purchase the UV LEDs
> 
> http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00VG967B0?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=ox_sc_act_title_1&smid=A1THAZDOWP300U


I thought the Primo also has a 4 pin molex to power LED strips as well? I can't really say or take a pic since i wont be getting my primo until next week.


----------



## Phaedrus89

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ironsmack*
> 
> I thought the Primo also has a 4 pin molex to power LED strips as well? I can't really say or take a pic since i wont be getting my primo until next week.


This was my assumption as well. It would appear (and i may be completely wrong) that there is one 12v SATA input for the fan controller, one 12v SATA input for the front LED's and Fan LED's and there is additional molex style connector that says "LED Strip" on it which is actually power input from what I'm told, this will power additional LEDs.
I hope I'm wrong, but I'm being led to believe that only those 8 2pin JST style connectors can be used to supply power to fans or LED's.
Seems silly that you would wire an LED switch and use a 12v input to the case and not leave a common connector to attach case lighting.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phaedrus89*
> 
> .... there is additional molex style connector that says "LED Strip" on it which is actually power input from what I'm told, this will power additional LEDs.
> .....


That is incorrect. The molex labeled "LED Strip" is an output. It is fed from and switched by the LED On/Off button of the case.


----------



## Greyish

So I got a delivery the other day!

PCPartPicker part list;
http://uk.pcpartpicker.com/p/pyvbHx



It took a little while to figure out what space I needed in the case itself with the removable items. Opted to take out the HDD bay by the PSU.



Took out the 200mm fan to make some room for both of my 240mm radiators, I've gone closed loop for the system.



Looking good so far..



The only problem I tan in to is that there is not enough clearance from the top radiator to mount the larger hard drive, although it is still held in securely.



Finished and running well, a really awesome build with good cable management options. Very happy with this one!


----------



## Faster_is_better

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Greyish*
> 
> So I got a delivery the other day!
> 
> PCPartPicker part list;
> http://uk.pcpartpicker.com/p/pyvbHx
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It took a little while to figure out what space I needed in the case itself with the removable items. Opted to take out the HDD bay by the PSU.
> 
> 
> 
> Took out the 200mm fan to make some room for both of my 240mm radiators, I've gone closed loop for the system.
> 
> 
> 
> Looking good so far..
> 
> 
> 
> The only problem I tan in to is that there is not enough clearance from the top radiator to mount the larger hard drive, although it is still held in securely.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finished and running well, a really awesome build with good cable management options. Very happy with this one!


Very nice, that is a cool case. Haven't looked into the EVOLVs that much.


----------



## scoobied77

Hey there all,

I'm currently waiting on the Primo SE case that I bought that will be turning up next week.

I've currently got a Monsoon bay res/pump that I use in my Luxe which I can obviously put in the Primo. Only thing is you won't actually see it due to the door on the Primo!

Just trying to work out my options as I don't mind fitting a tube res and putting the pump on the bottom of the side of the Primo where the bracket is. I think tube res/pump combo will be too much of squeeze right? As I quite like the PrimoChill 240mm AGB CTR Phase II for Laing D5 but really not sure where it would go.

Another nice res seems to be the EK Water Blocks EK-RES X3 250 Reservoir but again I'm not sure of fitment.

I think going from pics and videos I've seen its about 180mm max length you want if you want to mount on the back of the case? So in that case a EK Water Blocks EK-RES X3 150 Reservoir would fit I think.

I know there is two places you can mount a tube res but there is restrictions on what you can fit (this is bit I am trying to figure out!)

I'd really appreciate some help as I am buying all the parts I need for my case next week so I need to decide which route I will be going.

For the record my graphics card is 980 Ti G1 so it's quite long at 282mm. Although when EK bring out the water block for it I will be putting my card under water so the length will be shorter. For now I am stuck on air cooling the card.

And also worth me mentioning that I will be fitting a 480 Monsta rad in push/pull down the bottom.


----------



## Phaedrus89

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> That is incorrect. The molex labeled "LED Strip" is an output. It is fed from and switched by the LED On/Off button of the case.


I thought this was this case. Interesting how I get no reading on my multi meter when testing the LED Strip molex connector. I'll see if I can power some molex device for the time being and see if its a bad connector or lead from the controller. It makes more sense that this connector would be used for additional case lighting.

A few pages back Here
"The LED controller in the case does not output via the molex connector. That is used by the controller for input power. The LED outputs are the tiny 2-pin connectors near the top front corner labeled "Fan LED X". They are ~6 inches long."
Can anyone confirm it the LED strip molex works as it seems it would to supply 12VCD to additional lighting? This would make life loads easier.


----------



## MKHunt

I was mistaken earlier. My molex does give out 12V. When I saw LED strips I must have immediately started thinking about the front and top LED strips which are connected via the JST connectors.

When I connect the molex to my Fluke I see 11.997V. My bad.


----------



## Phaedrus89

Phewww, that makes my life so much easier. Now i dont have to order JST 2pin connectors and solder my own LED strips.
Now to figure out why my multimeter isnt showing any DCV on that connector.


----------



## Greyish

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Faster_is_better*
> 
> Very nice, that is a cool case. Haven't looked into the EVOLVs that much.


It really was a joy to work with, my last case was a Antec p180.

Even though the p180 was a full tower it was annoying to wire and move due to the weight. The cleaning of the Evolv is much easier too, since everything pops off nicely.

Bit of a fanboy of my new rig at the moment though!


----------



## Faster_is_better

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Greyish*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Faster_is_better*
> 
> Very nice, that is a cool case. Haven't looked into the EVOLVs that much.
> 
> 
> 
> It really was a joy to work with, my last case was a Antec p180.
> 
> Even though the p180 was a full tower it was annoying to wire and move due to the weight. The cleaning of the Evolv is much easier too, since everything pops off nicely.
> 
> Bit of a fanboy of my new rig at the moment though!
Click to expand...

Phanteks gain fanboys easily









They definitely have a lot of things going for them, Primo strips down really well for modding. See mine here, everything removed this far, was attached with screws or by push in locks.

I can't say the Primo is light though...
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phaedrus89*
> 
> Phewww, that makes my life so much easier. Now i dont have to order JST 2pin connectors and solder my own LED strips.
> Now to figure out why my multimeter isnt showing any DCV on that connector.


Did you have the case powered on, and the led button set to on as well? Maybe you were just trying the wrong pins.


----------



## Phaedrus89

Yes, the tower was powered on, LEDs on the front were on with the switch pressed down. I'll try again when I get home.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Reaper28*
> 
> I'd like to avoid doing that if possible, I guess M4 x .07 x 30mm screws would be better then?


you could invest in a screw cutter...I think the last one I bought was like 8 bucks..the screw threads into the hole then you snip off the end by squeezing it like pliers..works pretty well or at least the pair I have do...that's what I hate about going to hunt for screws...unless you have a good comparison it can be a guessing game sometimes you measure it 100 times get the screw and it's not tight even though measuring and math says it should be...reminds me of when I did cabinetry...salesman measures estimates based on standard of thickness fit items...go to do the install...."what do you mean it doesn't fit"...well manufactures have x tolerance..framing is considered good within x tolerance...drywall, plaster, before you know it...two inches too much..surprise


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Greyish*
> 
> So I got a delivery the other day!
> 
> PCPartPicker part list;
> http://uk.pcpartpicker.com/p/pyvbHx
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It took a little while to figure out what space I needed in the case itself with the removable items. Opted to take out the HDD bay by the PSU.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Took out the 200mm fan to make some room for both of my 240mm radiators, I've gone closed loop for the system.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Looking good so far..
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The only problem I tan in to is that there is not enough clearance from the top radiator to mount the larger hard drive, although it is still held in securely.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finished and running well, a really awesome build with good cable management options. Very happy with this one!


That is a sweet looking build, very clean. Love that 980 Ti with the G10, I have a 970 with a G10.


----------



## scoobied77

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *scoobied77*
> 
> Hey there all,
> 
> I'm currently waiting on the Primo SE case that I bought that will be turning up next week.
> 
> I've currently got a Monsoon bay res/pump that I use in my Luxe which I can obviously put in the Primo. Only thing is you won't actually see it due to the door on the Primo!
> 
> Just trying to work out my options as I don't mind fitting a tube res and putting the pump on the bottom of the side of the Primo where the bracket is. I think tube res/pump combo will be too much of squeeze right? As I quite like the PrimoChill 240mm AGB CTR Phase II for Laing D5 but really not sure where it would go.
> 
> Another nice res seems to be the EK Water Blocks EK-RES X3 250 Reservoir but again I'm not sure of fitment.
> 
> I think going from pics and videos I've seen its about 180mm max length you want if you want to mount on the back of the case? So in that case a EK Water Blocks EK-RES X3 150 Reservoir would fit I think.
> 
> I know there is two places you can mount a tube res but there is restrictions on what you can fit (this is bit I am trying to figure out!)
> 
> I'd really appreciate some help as I am buying all the parts I need for my case next week so I need to decide which route I will be going.
> 
> For the record my graphics card is 980 Ti G1 so it's quite long at 282mm. Although when EK bring out the water block for it I will be putting my card under water so the length will be shorter. For now I am stuck on air cooling the card.
> 
> And also worth me mentioning that I will be fitting a 480 Monsta rad in push/pull down the bottom.


Anyone?


----------



## Reaper28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> you could invest in a screw cutter...I think the last one I bought was like 8 bucks..the screw threads into the hole then you snip off the end by squeezing it like pliers..works pretty well or at least the pair I have do...that's what I hate about going to hunt for screws...unless you have a good comparison it can be a guessing game sometimes you measure it 100 times get the screw and it's not tight even though measuring and math says it should be...reminds me of when I did cabinetry...salesman measures estimates based on standard of thickness fit items...go to do the install...."what do you mean it doesn't fit"...well manufactures have x tolerance..framing is considered good within x tolerance...drywall, plaster, before you know it...two inches too much..surprise


I finally got some screws they ended up actually being for wood and you can snip about 4mm's on the screw so I finally got them done to 1'' 1/4 and M4 thread two trips to Home Depot and about $20 in screws. Now I just need to file the ends down a little. I still don't know why Hardware labs included screws that aren't long enough to mount the fan and rad to a case and of course they barely have no support at all. I probably could have contacted PPCS but not sure what they could have done.


----------



## Faster_is_better

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phaedrus89*
> 
> Phewww, that makes my life so much easier. Now i dont have to order JST 2pin connectors and solder my own LED strips.
> Now to figure out why my multimeter isnt showing any DCV on that connector.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *scoobied77*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *scoobied77*
> 
> Hey there all,
> 
> I'm currently waiting on the Primo SE case that I bought that will be turning up next week.
> 
> I've currently got a Monsoon bay res/pump that I use in my Luxe which I can obviously put in the Primo. Only thing is you won't actually see it due to the door on the Primo!
> 
> Just trying to work out my options as I don't mind fitting a tube res and putting the pump on the bottom of the side of the Primo where the bracket is. I think tube res/pump combo will be too much of squeeze right? As I quite like the PrimoChill 240mm AGB CTR Phase II for Laing D5 but really not sure where it would go.
> 
> Another nice res seems to be the EK Water Blocks EK-RES X3 250 Reservoir but again I'm not sure of fitment.
> 
> I think going from pics and videos I've seen its about 180mm max length you want if you want to mount on the back of the case? So in that case a EK Water Blocks EK-RES X3 150 Reservoir would fit I think.
> 
> I know there is two places you can mount a tube res but there is restrictions on what you can fit (this is bit I am trying to figure out!)
> 
> I'd really appreciate some help as I am buying all the parts I need for my case next week so I need to decide which route I will be going.
> 
> For the record my graphics card is 980 Ti G1 so it's quite long at 282mm. Although when EK bring out the water block for it I will be putting my card under water so the length will be shorter. For now I am stuck on air cooling the card.
> 
> And also worth me mentioning that I will be fitting a 480 Monsta rad in push/pull down the bottom.
> 
> 
> 
> Anyone?
Click to expand...

If you mount the res to the right of the graphics card you will have about 250mm of "comfortable" clearance from the bottom of that reservoir bracket, upwards. Your Monsta rad in P/P will be close to covering up the whole PSU cover, but not quite. Probably your best reference will be in this video:




*Check out 



 which actually shows a Monsta with push/pull in the bottom for reference.*

I think there is actually about 350mm from the top of the PSU shroud (that little shelf area) to the top of the case, but if you plan to put a radiator in the top then that cuts into that room quite a lot.


----------



## FastRedPonyCar

Hey gang, I've got delivery confirmation of a Red/Black Primo SE sitting at my door this afternoon and I'm wondering a few things hopefully you guys can answer.

I've got a pair of UT60 360 NexXos rads, 3 GT AP-15's, 3 NF F12 noctuas and 6 quiet edition Corsair fans.



Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!















Biggest question I have is whether one of these 360's will fit on the bottom of the case assuming I pull the hdd cages (which I am) without any issues? I almost opted for the monsta version but after seeing that it's wider than the UT60, decided it wasn't worth the risk.

I'm planning on having the gentle typhoons and noctuas hidden on the mounting side of the radiator and the corsairs all exposed on the intake side of the rads on the inside of the case.

For the standard size harddrive, I've got an optical bay mounting adapter that I'm currently using in my 650D as I pulled all the drive cages out of it to use a monsta 140 rad so no drive cages shouldn't be a problem.

Lastly, is that big section below the motherboard that sticks out where the PSU is behind, is that removable? And is the main piece of the chassis where the little Phanteks logo removable? I'm wanting to possibly get that painted or decorated so that it's not all just straight red everywhere and hoping I can get to those with relative ease without having to do a lot of taping and masking off of various other sections of the chassis.

From what I've seen, it seems like most of the thing is screwed together and not riveted?

Thanks for any info! I'm hoping to get a build log thread started this weekend. This is going to be the first build that I'm not letting money or cost get in the way of me having it exactly how I want.


----------



## toggz

Does anyone know where I can get some light strips for the enthoo primo? That connects to the molex it has in the back so that its controlled with the fans in the front?


----------



## By-Tor

I picked these up from Newegg and they work great in my primo. They wont plug into the case lighting system, but it does come with a remote control that you can turn them on/off, change to 15 different colors and white and also dim and brighten them.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811980001


----------



## Phaedrus89

Any idea what the problem could be? LEDs on the front and top of the case work fine. Font intake Fans and LEDs work fine as well.
Tower is powered on, fan controller and 12v input are connected to SATA power.
If the molex indeed is shot, what are my other options for powering LED's in the case using a remote?


----------



## Ironsmack

Have you tried contacting Phanteks?

If that was a new case and the molex is shot - thats warranty work no?


----------



## Phaedrus89

I just submitted a support ticket. I bought the case on new egg less than a month ago.
Not sure if its related but when i first installed everything sometimes when switching on and off the LED the whole tower would power off randomly.
It hasn't happened since but I can't help but wonder if something caused the LED controller to crap out.


----------



## Dorito Bandit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phaedrus89*
> 
> I just submitted a support ticket. I bought the case on new egg less than a month ago.
> Not sure if its related but when i first installed everything sometimes when switching on and off the LED the whole tower would power off randomly.
> It hasn't happened since but I can't help but wonder if something called the LED controller to crap out.


Phanteks' support is awesome! They took care of a minor issue I had when I bought the Enthoo Pro. Most everyone, if not all, in this thread have had a good experience with Phanteks' support. I hope you do to, bud.

Best of luck and do let us know the outcome.


----------



## Phaedrus89

I hope so too!
I have a feeling the most difficult part is going to putting everything back to my Corsair 650D


----------



## OneSeeker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *By-Tor*
> 
> I picked these up from Newegg and they work great in my primo. They wont plug into the case lighting system, but it does come with a remote control that you can turn them on/off, change to 15 different colors and white and also dim and brighten them.
> 
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811980001


how long that strip?
looking led strip for luxe


----------



## FastRedPonyCar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phaedrus89*
> 
> Any idea what the problem could be? LEDs on the front and top of the case work fine. Font intake Fans and LEDs work fine as well.
> Tower is powered on, fan controller and 12v input are connected to SATA power.
> If the molex indeed is shot, what are my other options for powering LED's in the case using a remote?


Have you followed that Molex connector back to it's source where it plugs into your power supply?

The whole system powering off I believe could point to some wires being crossed. It's possible that molex connector has it's + and - wires backwards. A pin removal tool could fix that one pretty quick.

I'd trace that wire back to where it's plugging into your power supply though and make sure the connector from your PSU is hot and if so, check on those wires being crossed.


----------



## By-Tor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneSeeker*
> 
> how long that strip?
> looking led strip for luxe


Comes with 2-12" LED strips


----------



## Magpul

How overkill would it be, to get the Enthoo Primo and not install any waterpumps? Only to use a CPU cooler like the Corsair H100i, but the rest is air cooled? I like the looks and size of the Primo and im looking for a case to replace my old HAF X.

Maybe there are better cases for that purpose?


----------



## MKHunt

Not so much overkill as just a different than enthusiast way to use the case. It would look very empty. But if that's the look you like and you like the case, then why not? THrow a thermaltake water 3.0 (just because it's a triple rad AIO cooler) and maybe a hybrid/AIO cooled GPU or two and game away. Or skip the hybrid cooling on the GPUs. THere's nothing wrong with having more case than you need... unless you like to take it places lol.


----------



## FastRedPonyCar

The luxe/pro would be a good alternative. They're basically slightly smaller versions of the Primo so you retain that same aesthetic and they can also still hold a ton of water cooling stuff if you ever decide to beef up your cooling later on.


----------



## Phaedrus89

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FastRedPonyCar*
> 
> Have you followed that Molex connector back to it's source where it plugs into your power supply?
> 
> The whole system powering off I believe could point to some wires being crossed. It's possible that molex connector has it's + and - wires backwards. A pin removal tool could fix that one pretty quick.
> 
> I'd trace that wire back to where it's plugging into your power supply though and make sure the connector from your PSU is hot and if so, check on those wires being crossed.


It traces back to a JST connector on a small PCB where the front and side LED strips plug into. The connector appears to be apoxy'd to the PCB so i cannot remove it safely.
there is no bare wire exposed at the PCB connector to test the voltage there. The supplied 12v input from the SATA connector on the PSU is good. Seeing as its under warranty I'm contacting Phanteks before i start removing anything.


----------



## FastRedPonyCar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phaedrus89*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *FastRedPonyCar*
> 
> Have you followed that Molex connector back to it's source where it plugs into your power supply?
> 
> The whole system powering off I believe could point to some wires being crossed. It's possible that molex connector has it's + and - wires backwards. A pin removal tool could fix that one pretty quick.
> 
> I'd trace that wire back to where it's plugging into your power supply though and make sure the connector from your PSU is hot and if so, check on those wires being crossed.
> 
> 
> 
> It traces back to a JST connector on a small PCB where the front and side LED strips plug into. The connector appears to be apoxy'd to the PCB so i cannot remove it safely.
> there is no bare wire exposed at the PCB connector to test the voltage there. The supplied 12v input from the SATA connector on the PSU is good. Seeing as its under warranty I'm contacting Phanteks before i start removing anything.
Click to expand...

Just out of curiosity, did you try probing the molex pins backwards with your multimeter to see if you get a voltage reading that way?


----------



## Phaedrus89

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FastRedPonyCar*
> 
> Just out of curiosity, did you try probing the molex pins backwards with your multimeter to see if you get a voltage reading that way?


Forward, backward, top of the connector, bottom of the connector. No negative or positive voltage reading.
even tried a 12v LED that i had lying around and tried to power it off of the connector, no luck. I've sent Phanteks support a copy of my invoice and attached the image I posted earlier.
I'll be eager to hear what they say.


----------



## Faster_is_better

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FastRedPonyCar*
> 
> Hey gang, I've got delivery confirmation of a Red/Black Primo SE sitting at my door this afternoon and I'm wondering a few things hopefully you guys can answer.
> 
> I've got a pair of UT60 360 NexXos rads, 3 GT AP-15's, 3 NF F12 noctuas and 6 quiet edition Corsair fans.
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Biggest question I have is whether one of these 360's will fit on the bottom of the case assuming I pull the hdd cages (which I am) without any issues? I almost opted for the monsta version but after seeing that it's wider than the UT60, decided it wasn't worth the risk.
> 
> I'm planning on having the gentle typhoons and noctuas hidden on the mounting side of the radiator and the corsairs all exposed on the intake side of the rads on the inside of the case.
> 
> For the standard size harddrive, I've got an optical bay mounting adapter that I'm currently using in my 650D as I pulled all the drive cages out of it to use a monsta 140 rad so no drive cages shouldn't be a problem.
> 
> Lastly, is that big section below the motherboard that sticks out where the PSU is behind, is that removable? And is the main piece of the chassis where the little Phanteks logo removable? I'm wanting to possibly get that painted or decorated so that it's not all just straight red everywhere and hoping I can get to those with relative ease without having to do a lot of taping and masking off of various other sections of the chassis.
> 
> From what I've seen, it seems like most of the thing is screwed together and not riveted?
> 
> Thanks for any info! I'm hoping to get a build log thread started this weekend. This is going to be the first build that I'm not letting money or cost get in the way of me having it exactly how I want.


UT60 up to 480 will easily fit in the bottom of the Primo in Push/Pull. You can even keep the top HDD drive with that configuration and still have enough room to do plumbing (about 1.5" of clearance).

The 5.25" panel with the phanteks logo comes off easily with screws. The PSU shroud and motherboard tray are 1 single piece and are riveted to the case so you would have to basically disassemble the entire rig to paint that piece.

This is how far you can take down the Primo without drilling anything.


----------



## FastRedPonyCar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phaedrus89*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *FastRedPonyCar*
> 
> Just out of curiosity, did you try probing the molex pins backwards with your multimeter to see if you get a voltage reading that way?
> 
> 
> 
> Forward, backward, top of the connector, bottom of the connector. No negative or positive voltage reading.
> even tried a 12v LED that i had lying around and tried to power it off of the connector, no luck. I've sent Phanteks support a copy of my invoice and attached the image I posted earlier.
> I'll be eager to hear what they say.
Click to expand...

Wow.. .really bizarre. Hopefully they get you squared away.


----------



## FastRedPonyCar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Faster_is_better*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *FastRedPonyCar*
> 
> Hey gang, I've got delivery confirmation of a Red/Black Primo SE sitting at my door this afternoon and I'm wondering a few things hopefully you guys can answer.
> 
> I've got a pair of UT60 360 NexXos rads, 3 GT AP-15's, 3 NF F12 noctuas and 6 quiet edition Corsair fans.
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Biggest question I have is whether one of these 360's will fit on the bottom of the case assuming I pull the hdd cages (which I am) without any issues? I almost opted for the monsta version but after seeing that it's wider than the UT60, decided it wasn't worth the risk.
> 
> I'm planning on having the gentle typhoons and noctuas hidden on the mounting side of the radiator and the corsairs all exposed on the intake side of the rads on the inside of the case.
> 
> For the standard size harddrive, I've got an optical bay mounting adapter that I'm currently using in my 650D as I pulled all the drive cages out of it to use a monsta 140 rad so no drive cages shouldn't be a problem.
> 
> Lastly, is that big section below the motherboard that sticks out where the PSU is behind, is that removable? And is the main piece of the chassis where the little Phanteks logo removable? I'm wanting to possibly get that painted or decorated so that it's not all just straight red everywhere and hoping I can get to those with relative ease without having to do a lot of taping and masking off of various other sections of the chassis.
> 
> From what I've seen, it seems like most of the thing is screwed together and not riveted?
> 
> Thanks for any info! I'm hoping to get a build log thread started this weekend. This is going to be the first build that I'm not letting money or cost get in the way of me having it exactly how I want.
> 
> 
> 
> UT60 up to 480 will easily fit in the bottom of the Primo in Push/Pull. You can even keep the top HDD drive with that configuration and still have enough room to do plumbing (about 1.5" of clearance).
> 
> The 5.25" panel with the phanteks logo comes off easily with screws. The PSU shroud and motherboard tray are 1 single piece and are riveted to the case so you would have to basically disassemble the entire rig to paint that piece.
> 
> This is how far you can take down the Primo without drilling anything.
Click to expand...

Yeah I test fitted some stuff last night. I wouldn't exactly say the UT60 "easily" fits in the bottom though. It fits but that's about as close as humanly possible to fitting. I ended up having to pull the bottom rubber grommet out to get it to go in.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!















I would say there's less than 1mm total clearance on the width here.

The one thing I did realize though is that I should have ordered a 480 UT60 for the top. I didn't know it would be that much space up there even if I have a couple of 3.5" HDD's mounted in optical bay adapters.


----------



## TMatzelle60

Quick Question the Phanteks Enthoo Pro (Black Version) Like linked below what color LED is the power and activity led?

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811854003&cm_re=phanteks-_-11-854-003-_-Product


----------



## Phaedrus89

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FastRedPonyCar*
> 
> Wow.. .really bizarre. Hopefully they get you squared away.


So Phanteks just like that decided to ship me a new LED PCB and switch to replace the old one. Just have to unscrew the old one and put the new one in and hook the front and top LEDS back up.
I hope this fixes the molex power....
+1 for prompt support from Phanteks, less than 24 hours since I emailed them and they are already shipping a part out.


----------



## PureBlackFire

would prefer this come with two fans. at least the hub. I feel this should be $10 less and it would be a good buy.


----------



## Blackops_2

Doesn't come with the hub? I can give you my two fans from my pro if you need them FWIW. Not coming with the hub sucks


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blackops_2*
> 
> Doesn't come with the hub? I can give you my two fans from my pro if you need them FWIW. Not coming with the hub sucks


nah I've got plenty of fans lying around here, just looking at this from a buyer's perspective and it's not an incredibly attractive offering. I'm looking at the case market and every mid/full tower over $75 has to pass the Define S ($80/$90) and Enthoo Pro ($90/$100) test and this fails miserably in my opinon. the cost of a PH-F200SP fan is $23. the cost of the fan hub is $15. the small amount of 3.5" HDD mounts and only two USB ports I don't care about, but there is a $10/$20 price gap between this and a bigger case from phanteks that comes with at least $38 in extra stuff and more usb ports. did they even look at this from a consumer's perspective before finalizing the release version? at the same price as the Define S it also falls on it's face. it's got a smaller frame so less rad support (can't fit two 360's) and the Define S fits two 360 rads, 3 3.5" drives , has *two* included fans and *two* SSD brackets (phanteks needs to throw more of these in in general. the Pro needs two and the Luxe needs 2 of the double SSD brackets as per other cases at their price points). even the cheper S340, which admittedly doesn't have the same rad support, comes with two fans and two SSD brackets. this case is priced $10-$15 too high. final gripe is the side panel. why does this have a similar design to the evolv mATX when the interior on this case is wide open? this case should have come with the exact same window design that's on the evolv ATX. the front filter design is just inexcusable. no way after the Enthoo pro should they have released another case with side vents that bypass the front filter. it just looks like too much given up from the Enthoo Pro and the Define S is clearly a better out of box offering at the same price. if this comes out with the fan hub or cheaper that would be great.


----------



## doyll

Been playing with Photoshop to get a side by side comparison of the Pro M and Pro. with specs. Kinda hectic here with distractions and all so if you see any errors please point them out.



I have to say I'm liking the size and design, but definitely need to study it in more detail.


----------



## Faster_is_better

That diagram should go into OP, quite handy.


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Been playing with Photoshop to get a side by side comparison of the Pro M and Pro. with specs. Kinda hectic here with distractions and all so if you see any errors please point them out.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have to say I'm liking the size and design, but definitely need to study it in more detail.


it looks good. nice work.


----------



## Dorito Bandit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TMatzelle60*
> 
> Quick Question the Phanteks Enthoo Pro (Black Version) Like linked below what color LED is the power and activity led?
> 
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811854003&cm_re=phanteks-_-11-854-003-_-Product


Enthoo Pro

The Power and Activity LEDs are both white, and they're very bright. Very nice looking, too!


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dorito Bandit*
> 
> Enthoo Pro
> 
> The Power and Activity LEDs are both white, and they're very bright. Very nice looking, too!


yeah a piece of plastic could change the color pretty well id say


----------



## Dorito Bandit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> yeah a piece of plastic could change the color pretty well id say


Yes, I don't think it would be a problem at all to change the color of the LED if you wanted to do so. I personally like how it looks as it is.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dorito Bandit*
> 
> Yes, I don't think it would be a problem at all to change the color of the LED if you wanted to do so. I personally like how it looks as it is.


me either the white is fine...I might put frosted clear over it to slightly dull it..


----------



## emsj86

So I just upgrades to a caselabs case and I will miss my pro. I'll be tearing it down soon. If anyone is local (philadelphia ,pa) and want a pro with custom acrylic windows I'll sell t off very cheap. Or of anyone wants dibs I'm going to be selling the custom windows for the pro/luxe with bezel edges all polished and bolts and nuts to mount. (or if you just want the whole door) pm me. See my build log for pictures of the window and case search blue blurry.


----------



## MKHunt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FastRedPonyCar*
> 
> Yeah I test fitted some stuff last night. I wouldn't exactly say the UT60 "easily" fits in the bottom though. It fits but that's about as close as humanly possible to fitting. I ended up having to pull the bottom rubber grommet out to get it to go in.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I would say there's less than 1mm total clearance on the width here.
> 
> The one thing I did realize though is that I should have ordered a 480 UT60 for the top. I didn't know it would be that much space up there even if I have a couple of 3.5" HDD's mounted in optical bay adapters.


If you want the psu cover to be black, just get some vinyl off of amazon. Way easier than painting and if you hate it. just peel it off and wipe clean.


----------



## havoc764

Curious question,

Assuming one would only use the stock fans in the enthoo luxe, what would the best placement for them be?


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *havoc764*
> 
> Curious question,
> 
> Assuming one would only use the stock fans in the enthoo luxe, what would the best placement for them be?


In most scenarios, probably the two 140mm in the front for intake and the 200mm on the top rear for exhaust. However, without knowing the specifics of your build it would be hard to say.


----------



## dman811

I should be getting my Pro in tomorrow. I am very excited, and seeing the response time and extreme customer service from Phanteks, I know that if anything is wrong with my case, I will receive wonderful support... unlike Cooler Master with my current HAF 932.


----------



## Dorito Bandit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dman811*
> 
> I should be getting my Pro in tomorrow. I am very excited, and seeing the response time and extreme customer service from Phanteks, I know that if anything is wrong with my case, I will receive wonderful support... unlike Cooler Master with my current HAF 932.


Which Pro are you getting and what color?

Also, don't forget to share some pics of the build! We love dem pics!


----------



## subyman

I've been using a Phanteks Evolv mATX case and recently built a watercooling set up around it. Sadly, I'm not impressed by its performance. First off, I love the case. Almost everything is well thought out from the SSD brackets to the aesthetic design. My problem is with air flow. Specifically the top panel. I have a 980TI and a 4820k that are cooled by two 240mm Alphacool XT45s using EK Varder fans in push (push pull will not fit.) While playing games the temperatures were much higher than I was expecting. I hit nearly 60C on the GPU. I then took the top panel off and it dropped to 48C, which still seems high. I noticed the top panel only has tiny slits in the sides and the back has a small opening but it simply isn't enough to make sure the air gets out properly. My second qualm is that the pump mount is unusable with a radiator mounted to the front, which seems like a major oversight since this thing only fits 2x240mm rads.

So, for those looking to do a serious watercooling build, this case probably isn't a great choice. Its a huge bummer because I love the look and overall design.


----------



## MKHunt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *subyman*
> 
> I've been using a Phanteks Evolv mATX case and recently built a watercooling set up around it. Sadly, I'm not impressed by its performance. First off, I love the case. Almost everything is well thought out from the SSD brackets to the aesthetic design. My problem is with air flow. Specifically the top panel. I have a 980TI and a 4820k that are cooled by two 240mm Alphacool XT45s using EK Varder fans in push (push pull will not fit.) While playing games the temperatures were much higher than I was expecting. I hit nearly 60C on the GPU. I then took the top panel off and it dropped to 48C, which still seems high. I noticed the top panel only has tiny slits in the sides and the back has a small opening but it simply isn't enough to make sure the air gets out properly. My second qualm is that the pump mount is unusable with a radiator mounted to the front, which seems like a major oversight since this thing only fits 2x240mm rads.
> 
> So, for those looking to do a serious watercooling build, this case probably isn't a great choice. Its a huge bummer because I love the look and overall design.


I read nothing a touch of modding wouldn't fix...

Plus 4x120 of rad should cool a 98Ti and 4820k pretty decently. Better than 48C anyway. I had 6x120 of rad with inferior fans and SLI titan OGs would hit 33C in Heaven and Valley at 1440p extreme. Masybe air bubbles?


----------



## dman811

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dorito Bandit*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *dman811*
> 
> I should be getting my Pro in tomorrow. I am very excited, and seeing the response time and extreme customer service from Phanteks, I know that if anything is wrong with my case, I will receive wonderful support... unlike Cooler Master with my current HAF 932.
> 
> 
> 
> Which Pro are you getting and what color?
> 
> Also, don't forget to share some pics of the build! We love dem pics!
Click to expand...

PH-ES614P_BK and build pics will definitely be included.

EDIT: So it looks like it might not get here until Wednesday or Thursday if FedEx has to transfer to USPS. That'll put it at 8-9 business day shipping.

EDIT 2: FedEx dropped it off this morning. I will be taking pictures tomorrow when it comes out of the box.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *subyman*
> 
> I've been using a Phanteks Evolv mATX case and recently built a watercooling set up around it. Sadly, I'm not impressed by its performance. First off, I love the case. Almost everything is well thought out from the SSD brackets to the aesthetic design. My problem is with air flow. Specifically the top panel. I have a 980TI and a 4820k that are cooled by two 240mm Alphacool XT45s using EK Varder fans in push (push pull will not fit.) While playing games the temperatures were much higher than I was expecting. I hit nearly 60C on the GPU. I then took the top panel off and it dropped to 48C, which still seems high. I noticed the top panel only has tiny slits in the sides and the back has a small opening but it simply isn't enough to make sure the air gets out properly. My second qualm is that the pump mount is unusable with a radiator mounted to the front, which seems like a major oversight since this thing only fits 2x240mm rads.
> 
> So, for those looking to do a serious watercooling build, this case probably isn't a great choice. Its a huge bummer because I love the look and overall design.


edit: wrong case


----------



## n00bftw

Just wanted to say a big thank you to the Phantek Support guys as my Enthoo Luxe that shipped from overclockers uk came with the front housing and the psu cover scratched and dented, and no i did not want to go through shipping the thing back after i put my system in it lol :/ although it would of been nice for OCUK to offer i partial refund for the hassle, but not a chance of that happening - that's another story all together









Anyhow Phantek are sending me the parts that were damaged so im well chuffed with that, and the best thing about it is that i only had to send them 2 emails and it was sorted - awesome customer service


----------



## tonnytech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *n00bftw*
> 
> Just wanted to say a big thank you to the Phantek Support guys as my Enthoo Luxe that shipped from overclockers uk came with the front housing and the psu cover scratched and dented, and no i did not want to go through shipping the thing back after i put my system in it lol :/ although it would of been nice for OCUK to offer i partial refund for the hassle, but not a chance of that happening - that's another story all together
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anyhow Phantek are sending me the parts that were damaged so im well chuffed with that, and the best thing about it is that i only had to send them 2 emails and it was sorted - awesome customer service


I think they have qc issues to be honest i picked up one recently which was dented swapped it and the new one was scratched .... now awaiting replacement parts from phantek to sort. Both the boxes they came in i checked for damage and there was no marks or anything to indicate they been handled poorly or dented via couriers. That being said I do love my enthoo primo


----------



## n00bftw

Yeah i guess so but they were quick to send replacement parts out so i cant fault them at all, and i got £18 back of OCUK for the hassle so props to them aswell, love the case but i think im going to swap the fans out, any recommendation of fans and orientations which are the best


----------



## n00bftw

I am in 2 minds as to upgrade to an aio cpu cooler instead of that huge heat-sync dumping hot air into my case while in turn heating my other components further - any recommendations on that front as-well


----------



## dman811

If you want silent fans that push a lot of air, I can highly recommend Cougar.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dman811*
> 
> If you want silent fans that push a lot of air, I can highly recommend Cougar.


I have six running max (1200rpm 120mm) and they aren't very loud...I like them just wish they came with better color schemes

As for AIO swiftech h240x is about as good as it gets


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *n00bftw*
> 
> I am in 2 minds as to upgrade to an aio cpu cooler instead of that huge heat-sync dumping hot air into my case while in turn heating my other components further - any recommendations on that front as-well


I would rather have the weight of a cooler than have to put up with the noise of a CLC doing the same job. And if your case has proper airflow there is no heat buildup .. especially not from CPU cooler. Getting the heated GPU exhaust to flow out of case without contaminating cool intake air is not as easily done. You might find some of the posts in "Ways to Better Cooling" linked in my sig helpful. Lots of people have lowered their system temps by following that info.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *n00bftw*
> 
> I am in 2 minds as to upgrade to an aio cpu cooler


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> I have six running max (1200rpm 120mm) and they aren't very loud...I like them just wish they came with better color schemes
> 
> As for AIO swiftech h240x is about as good as it gets


Essentially, the Swiftech H240-X and H220-X would be the *only* AiO coolers on the market that would be an upgrade to your BQ. A CLC would be a lateral performance move and would be incredibly loud by comparison. When I say "incredibly", I am being kind to the CLC.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *n00bftw*
> 
> instead of that huge heat-sync dumping hot air into my case while in turn heating my other components further - any recommendations on that front as-well


The nicest way to put this - unless you have some serious airflow issues (which you don't in the Luxe)....that doesn't actually happen. In fact, VRMs have a tendency of staying cooler with large air coolers since they aid in air movement in the case. We recently tested a bunch of coolers at HTL using in-case ambient readings and there really wasn't a measurable difference when room ambient was taken into context.


----------



## n00bftw

i may save up and do a custom water loop as the noise on a whole does my head in, surely that would fix the noise levels of the card and gpu

what would be the best fan setup in a luxe with 1 gpu


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *n00bftw*
> 
> i may save up and do a custom water loop as the noise on a whole does my head in, surely that would fix the noise levels of the card and gpu
> 
> what would be the best fan setup in a luxe with 1 gpu


The best setup I have found would entail you purchasing another F140SP.

Two F140SP in the front as intake (use the current top exhaust and the new one)
One F140SP in the rear as exhaust (existing)
Move the 200mm to the top as exhaust
Leave your 120mm on the bottom


----------



## Ironsmack

Finally picked my Primo, but there's a few nicks on the case, there's a masking tape stuck inside the case, some of the push lock (? For the filters) doesn't work.

The push lock doesn't bother me, they're easy to replace. But the nicks and uneven paint on the inside bother me.

Either i bring it back to NCIX and exchange it - but they're backorder and who knows how long it would take.

Or keep it and just contact Phanteks support to ask for replacement push lock and live with the nicks.









And this weird uneven gap. You guys have this too?



Eh ill think about it at work...


----------



## Waro

Hey guys, I have a question about the Evolv (mATX or ATX) : How are your experiences with the front and top fans used as exhausts? Do the Aluminium plates restrict the air flow to much? I'm thinking about putting an AiO watercooling there - up to one Corsair H110i GTX in the top and two EVGA Hybrids in the front.


----------



## n00bftw

Im going nuts here, how the hell do i place the 200mm fan on the top as it uses the smaller screw holes and the normal threaded screws don't fit through the gap :/


----------



## Faster_is_better

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ironsmack*
> 
> Finally picked my Primo, but there's a few nicks on the case, there's a masking tape stuck inside the case, some of the push lock (? For the filters) doesn't work.
> 
> The push lock doesn't bother me, they're easy to replace. But the nicks and uneven paint on the inside bother me.
> 
> Either i bring it back to NCIX and exchange it - but they're backorder and who knows how long it would take.
> 
> Or keep it and just contact Phanteks support to ask for replacement push lock and live with the nicks.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And this weird uneven gap. You guys have this too?
> 
> 
> 
> Eh ill think about it at work...


Hmm the white version really shows the imperfections. I never noticed a gap like that on mine but I have black version and it would be a lot harder to spot something like that. As far as small spots missing paint, I wouldn't worry about them if they are in areas that you can't see in normal use. Painting on these cases in general doesn't seem to be fantastic but typically it is in places that you won't really notice and are fairly minor.

That spot above your side door is a bit ugly though, not sure if I would live with that one. I think the problem is, these cases are made/painted in China and then shipped all the way over here, (hopefully not fully assembled). Then by the time they are shipped again it is easy for something to be damaged. There is actually quite a lot of plastic on the Primo that can break in shipping. The little clips aren't the best, all of the big plastic panels are secured with push in plastic inserts that can be broken from shipping impacts.

So the chances of getting a case in better shape? Hard to say...


----------



## Reaper28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *n00bftw*
> 
> Im going nuts here, how the hell do i place the 200mm fan on the top as it uses the smaller screw holes and the normal threaded screws don't fit through the gap :/


Uhhh that's odd, are you trying to mount the fan inside the case or under the top (Luxe, Primo) ?


----------



## n00bftw

im using a luxe and im trying to put the fan exactly were i removed the 140mm fan from at the top of the case, the holes are different, very strange


----------



## zerophase

Anyone know which screws I need to remove from the Phanteks badge panel to place a 480 radiator in the bottom?


----------



## Reaper28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *n00bftw*
> 
> im using a luxe and im trying to put the fan exactly were i removed the 140mm fan from at the top of the case, the holes are different, very strange


I just checked, you have to use the furtherest away holes pretty much right near the edge of the case. The thread is a little small but you should be able to screw into it


----------



## zerophase

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Reaper28*
> 
> I just checked, you have to use the furtherest away holes pretty much right near the edge of the case. The thread is a little small but you should be able to screw into it


Thanks, avoiding disassembling the entire front, if I can, when only a few screws will do.


----------



## Reaper28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zerophase*
> 
> Thanks, avoiding disassembling the entire front, if I can, when only a few screws will do.


You will have to remove the front panel though to get access to the top panel, also remove the bottom front dust filter so you don't break the front panel when you pull it off


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *n00bftw*
> 
> im using a luxe and im trying to put the fan exactly were i removed the 140mm fan from at the top of the case, the holes are different, very strange


There are ten 6-32 x 31mm screws in the tool kit....the ones labeled "200mm Fan (Top), HDD Fan". Page 8 in the manual - http://phanteks.com/assets/manuals/Enthoo%20Luxe%20Manual%20Western.pdf

They tell you they are there in the parts list, but never mention them anywhere else in the manual.








Those are the screws you need to use.


----------



## Magpul

Im confused by the fan hub in the Primo, if i want to have the same setup as Linus in the link below with a Corsair H110i GT :






Where the fans speed up when they detect a temperature rise in the CPU, how would i connect the fans in the hub?


----------



## n00bftw

the 4 corner holes in the fan are to big for the 6-32 x 31mm screws and it want hold it, how as everyone else screwed a 200mm fan in place at the top


----------



## mfknjadagr8

https://forum.teksyndicate.com/t/200mm-fan-mounted-on-top-of-phanteks-enthoo-pro/74023


----------



## subyman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Waro*
> 
> Hey guys, I have a question about the Evolv (mATX or ATX) : How are your experiences with the front and top fans used as exhausts? Do the Aluminium plates restrict the air flow to much? I'm thinking about putting an AiO watercooling there - up to one Corsair H110i GTX in the top and two EVGA Hybrids in the front.


The top panel absolutely restricts air flow. I posted a few days ago about my dilemma.


----------



## subyman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MKHunt*
> 
> I read nothing a touch of modding wouldn't fix...
> 
> Plus 4x120 of rad should cool a 98Ti and 4820k pretty decently. Better than 48C anyway. I had 6x120 of rad with inferior fans and SLI titan OGs would hit 33C in Heaven and Valley at 1440p extreme. Masybe air bubbles?


They should be plenty. I used them on a highly OCed 290X with the same CPU and was doing ~37C on load in a modded 550D. I didn't want to mod this case because I planned to pass it along to my brother after a while. He doesn't water cool so I didn't want big holes in the top. If I punch out the top to allow air flow then it ruins the look of the case. I don't have access to a CNC machine to do put a nice looking design on the top. I may go in another direction and get a Primo and stuff it full of radiators


----------



## Waro

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *subyman*
> 
> The top panel absolutely restricts air flow. I posted a few days ago about my dilemma.












The front panel is ok?


----------



## n00bftw

so your meant to screw it in from underneath instead of top - down ?


----------



## KaffieneKing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Waro*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The front panel is ok?


If you are using an AIO then use the front would be preferable for CPU temps, having said that I had a H110 mounted in the roof of my evolv and it worked great still, just needs high static pressure fans.


----------



## MrKoala

Looking forward to get a Luxe/Pro. Is it possible to mount fans outside the front support panel so a front radiator can fit without removing all the HDD cages?


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrKoala*
> 
> Looking forward to get a Luxe/Pro. Is it possible to mount fans outside the front support panel so a front radiator can fit without removing all the HDD cages? And why does PHANTEKS only advertise 240mm rad support in the front when there is space for two 140mm fans?


no, there is no space to mount fans outside the frame under the front panel. they only advertise 240 rad support because they can only fit up to a 240 rad in front. there is room for two 140mm fans yes, but not for a 280 rad. what sort of build are you planning?


----------



## MrKoala

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PureBlackFire*
> 
> no, there is no space to mount fans outside the frame under the front panel. they only advertise 240 rad support because they can only fit up to a 240 rad in front. there is room for two 140mm fans yes, but not for a 280 rad. what sort of build are you planning?


Thanks.

Checked another review and I see why it's 240 only. 280 rads are actually longer than 280 and something would be blocking it one way or the other.

I'm planing a workstation build including 2 CPUs and 3 or 4 GPU/MIC cards, so air cooing wont' be very manageable. I do have a few hard drives to use and prefer to put the drive cages in place. In this case the only internal rad mounts usable for me would be the top 420 and the rear 140. That may not be enough, which means external rad mounting is needed.

The only thing negative about the Phanteks' line up I've noticed so far is external rad tube holes missing. The case does have good (way better than average) internal rad mounting options. But why skip drilling just two holes in the back?


----------



## dman811

You also have the option for having a radiator at the bottom of the case. To use that would require having one hard drive cage (or both) removed, and the remaining be in the top spot.


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrKoala*
> 
> Thanks.
> 
> Checked another review and I see why it's 240 only. 280 rads are actually longer than 280 and something would be blocking it one way or the other.
> 
> I'm planing a workstation build including 2 CPUs and 3 or 4 GPU/MIC cards, so air cooing wont' be very manageable. I do have a few hard drives to use and prefer to put the drive cages in place. In this case the only internal rad mounts usable for me would be the top 420 and the rear 140. That may not be enough, which means external rad mounting is needed.
> 
> The only thing negative about the Phanteks' line up I've noticed so far is external rad tube holes missing. The case does have good (way better than average) internal rad mounting options. But why skip drilling just two holes in the back?


I'd recommend getting a different case as the Pro/Luxe IMO are not suited very well to that type of build. how many hard drives exactly will you need?


----------



## emsj86

Def look for another case as these cases our not made for external rad placement and you would ruin the looks of the case to mount these external rads.


----------



## MrKoala

I might use 4 to 6 3.5" HDDs. Up to 5 is manageable with one cage and one or two 3.5 to 5.25 bay adapter(s). 6 would be difficult as the top rad would run out of clearance especially if I put the fittings side of the rad to the front (less chance of hardware loss if the fittings do leak, maybe I could DIY some kind of cover for the GPUs). I would avoid mounting HDDs vertically if possible. SSDs can go to the back.

I'm aware that there are more capable cases out there. The problem is I need the system to go under my office desk and there's limited space. Within the size range of the 614 I don't know anything that's significantly better with rads than Phanteks' offering and supports EEB mobos. (Officially advertising EEB support on a gaming-focused case is very rare and that's what got me interested in Phanteks in the beginning.) TT Core V51/71 might fit 420+360 rads with drive cages removed, but only 4 mobo standoffs fit.

Not having water tube holes is not necessarily a show stopper. I can route them through the I/O panel opening, or through one expansion bucket if I have any left. And if that doesn't work I can always cut holes myself.


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrKoala*
> 
> I might use 4 to 6 3.5" HHDs. Up to 5 is manageable with one cage and one or two 3.5 to 5.25 bay adapter(s). 6 would be difficult as the top rad would run out of clearance especially if I put the fittings side of the rad to the front (less chance of hardware loss if the fittings do leak, maybe I could DIY some kind of cover for the GPUs). I would avoid mounting HDDs vertically if possible. SSDs can go to the back.
> 
> I'm aware that there are more capable cases out there. The problem is I need the system to go under my office desk and there's limited space. Within the size range of the 614 I don't know anything that's significantly better with rads than Phanteks' offering and supports EEB mobos. (Officially advertising EEB support on a gaming-focused case is very rare and that's what got me interested in Phanteks in the beginning.) TT Core V51 might fit 420+360 rads with drive cages removed, but only 4 mobo standoffs fit.
> 
> Not having water tube holes is not necessarily a show stopper. I can route them through the I/O panel opening, of through one expansion bucket if I have any left. And if that doesn't work I can always cut holes myself.


alright, so you need to look at bigger cases that can hold decent rad surface without sacrificing hard drive bays and still fit under your desk. the Luxe and Pro are non starters for you. many of the design choices with the frame of the Pro/Luxe are a bit overspecific, hurting flexibility, but it's damn good at what it's designed to handle. being that the Primo won't fit, I'd say you and Phanteks are not meant for each other.







I recommend the Corsair 750D for you. it can hold a 360 top rad (the Luxe handles 420 rads better up top, I own both cases so I know from experience) a 120/140 rad on the rear and a 240 rad in bottom while keeping two hard drive cages installed. motherboard compatibilty is the same, it's a better case for multiple gpus as it has 9 pci-e slot, a taller area there. only problem with this case is front intake sucks. I don't think you'll need more than a 360 + 240 rad for this. if you do, forget about putting the case under your desk.


----------



## MrKoala

750D looks good space wise. But I'm getting an additional 240 at the cost of downgrading from 420 to 360 at the top, so actual benefit might be small.

And that front intake --- it basically doesn't exist! Why do case makers want to sabotage their own airflow setup like that?


----------



## Thoraine

I don't know if it has already been posted, but if you buy the LED strip, ONLY press it down firmly, instead of swiping it down!!!! It is covered in silicone and that's how I ripped a chunk of silicone out of the strip. Secondly, ensure the strip DOES NOT COVER THE SIDE COVER SCREW HOLES!

Now I have 2 holes in my LED strip and one of my Red LEDs isn't working any more.


----------



## dman811

MNPCTech sells perforated panels. LINK


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrKoala*
> 
> 750D looks good space wise. But I'm getting an additional 240 at the cost of downgrading from 420 to 360 at the top, so actual benefit might be small.
> 
> And that front intake --- it basically doesn't exist! Why do case makers want to sabotage their own airflow setup like that?


you can do a 420 in it, just gonna be more limited with the rad's placement and rear fan mount. they have a high airflow front panel available finally.


----------



## Dorito Bandit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *n00bftw*
> 
> the 4 corner holes in the fan are to big for the 6-32 x 31mm screws and it want hold it, how as everyone else screwed a 200mm fan in place at the top


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> https://forum.teksyndicate.com/t/200mm-fan-mounted-on-top-of-phanteks-enthoo-pro/74023


That's a thread I started.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *n00bftw*
> 
> so your meant to screw it in from underneath instead of top - down ?


Yes, you screw the fan to the case from the bottom. NOT from the top. Hold the fan in place and carefully screw all 4 screws in as far as you can with your fingers. Then get a screw driver and carefully tighten them up some more. You do have the screws to do this with in the included accessory box. Let us know how it goes.


----------



## Ironsmack

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Faster_is_better*
> 
> Hmm the white version really shows the imperfections. I never noticed a gap like that on mine but I have black version and it would be a lot harder to spot something like that. As far as small spots missing paint, I wouldn't worry about them if they are in areas that you can't see in normal use. Painting on these cases in general doesn't seem to be fantastic but typically it is in places that you won't really notice and are fairly minor.
> 
> That spot above your side door is a bit ugly though, not sure if I would live with that one. I think the problem is, these cases are made/painted in China and then shipped all the way over here, (hopefully not fully assembled). Then by the time they are shipped again it is easy for something to be damaged. There is actually quite a lot of plastic on the Primo that can break in shipping. The little clips aren't the best, all of the big plastic panels are secured with push in plastic inserts that can be broken from shipping impacts.
> 
> So the chances of getting a case in better shape? Hard to say...


I hear yah. Just the status of the case when i got it was - *it* felt like it didnt pass the QA. I contacted Phanteks about my issue and they have no problem sending me the replacement push locks and whatever pieces that was replaceable.

But i highly doubt that the items i showed was a replaceable piece. If they say they can it replace it - ill just keep it. If not, ill send it back to NCIX and have them replace it with another case.

What's another 3 months i guess....


----------



## dikkiedirk

Is the Enthoo Pro M available yet? In Europe they seem to be delayed until mid August. Might have to get me an Enthoo Pro. Does it have any drawbacks compared to the Pro M?


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dikkiedirk*
> 
> Is the Enthoo Pro M available yet? In Europe they seem to be delayed until mid August. Might have to get me an Enthoo Pro. Does it have any drawbacks compared to the Pro M?


Main difference is size
Have you considered Enthoo Evolv ATX?
Evolv ATX is 235 mm x 495 mm x 510 mm
with Pro M 235 mm x 480 mm x 500 mm
while Pro is 235 mm x 535 mm x 550 mm (W x H x D)


----------



## dikkiedirk

All the Phanteks seem out of stock at the moment in the Netherlands. Just when I want/need them. Guess I have to wait a month or so.


----------



## Bit_reaper

So I just got the Luxe. Seem pretty nice. I have started to move over my old gear into it but as my old tube res has an crack in it I'm shopping around for an new one. So here's an question you guys. Has anyone put an bay res in one of thees? I ask because the quick release look like they will not play nice with most reservoirs and I don't see a way to remove them either.

Build log here: http://www.overclock.net/t/1565275/build-log-watercooled-system-transplant-tempest-to-enthoo-luxe


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bit_reaper*
> 
> So I just got the Luxe. Seem pretty nice. I have started to move over my old gear into it but as my old tube res has an crack in it I'm shopping around for an new one. So here's an question you guys. Has anyone put an bay res in one of thees? I ask because the quick release look like they will not play nice with most reservoirs and I don't see a way to remove them either.
> 
> Build log here: http://www.overclock.net/t/1565275/build-log-watercooled-system-transplant-tempest-to-enthoo-luxe


I've seen a few with a bay res. the quick release tabs are very easy to pop off, you just give the sides a little twist and pop one of the little pegs out.


----------



## Bit_reaper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PureBlackFire*
> 
> I've seen a few with a bay res. the quick release tabs are very easy to pop off, you just give the sides a little twist and pop one of the little pegs out.


Oh will you look at that. The where that easy to get off after all. Thanks +rep. Honestly I never really got the whole toolless quick release thing, who needs to add and remove 5.25 bays so often they can be bothered to undo a few screws


----------



## Sludacris

Just got this email from phanteks:

"We apologize for the inconvenience. There has been an uncontrollable delay with the delivery of our Enthoo Evolv ATX case. The revised ship date is now August 17. Once again we apologize for the inconvenience, and if you need to cancel your preorder let us know and we will process a refund right away."

make that 2.5 months since it was "released"...


----------



## Thoraine

Does anyone know if the Phantek Enthoo Luxe uses the HD audio connector or the AC'97 legacy?


----------



## dman811




----------



## Thoraine

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dman811*


Was that meant for me? I was thinking more of which mode I need to set my mobo's front panel i/o to. It allows HD and legacyy.


----------



## dman811

No, I was posting a picture of my case.


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dman811*


Looks good.


----------



## owcraftsman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Thoraine*
> 
> Does anyone know if the Phantek Enthoo Luxe uses the HD audio connector or the AC'97 legacy?


Luxe and Primo are both HD Audio to front panel connectors.


----------



## dman811

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rfarmer*
> 
> Looks good.


The rats nest is behind the monitor though.


----------



## TMatzelle60

Can't wait to finish son and my gaming rig. He is looking to get into really good live streaming which i know takes some time


----------



## GhettoFied

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sludacris*
> 
> Just got this email from phanteks:
> 
> "We apologize for the inconvenience. There has been an uncontrollable delay with the delivery of our Enthoo Evolv ATX case. The revised ship date is now August 17. Once again we apologize for the inconvenience, and if you need to cancel your preorder let us know and we will process a refund right away."
> 
> make that 2.5 months since it was "released"...


. Same. So passed, I needed a case before college and now it's not going to be here on time. Loved the look, so I'm not going to go with the primo. Any suggestions for similar cases anyone? Must be atx and have no 5.25 bays.


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GhettoFied*
> 
> . Same. So passed, I needed a case before college and now it's not going to be here on time. Loved the look, so I'm not going to go with the primo. Any suggestions for similar cases anyone? Must be atx and have no 5.25 bays.


You might look at the Fractal Design Define R4 , nice looking case and no 5.25 bay. Fractal are supposed to make some pretty good cases too.


----------



## dman811

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rfarmer*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *GhettoFied*
> 
> . Same. So passed, I needed a case before college and now it's not going to be here on time. Loved the look, so I'm not going to go with the primo. Any suggestions for similar cases anyone? Must be atx and have no 5.25 bays.
> 
> 
> 
> You might look at the Fractal Design Define R4 , nice looking case and no 5.25 bay. Fractal are supposed to make some pretty good cases too.
Click to expand...

They do have 5.25 bays, they're just behind a door.


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dman811*
> 
> They do have 5.25 bays, they're just behind a door.


Ok thanks I missed that.

Well you might look at some NZXT cases. The 240. 340 or 440 depending on your budget.


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GhettoFied*
> 
> Same. So passed, I needed a case before college and now it's not going to be here on time. Loved the look, so I'm not going to go with the primo. Any suggestions for similar cases anyone? Must be atx and have no 5.25 bays.


the Define S or H440.


----------



## TMatzelle60

FD Define S is a really great case and not super expensive !


----------



## colinmcr

I'm trying some hardline, now I know why they call it HARD line !










With the top Rad back in...


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Looks fine


----------



## TMatzelle60

Colin, Nice build !


----------



## MrKoala

I see some inner side panel murder going on.









There seems to be no reservoir near the pump. Is it feeding through the back?


----------



## Ironsmack

Looks like its a Bay res instead.


----------



## Harrywang

Hello guys. I'm looking to upgrade my case for the first time ever. Coming from a CM haf 912 and hoping this would be a big improvement in sound and air cooling. Have a couple of questions regarding set up. I will be buying enthoo pro.

1. I lost my i/o shield plate for my motherboard so I won't have any i/o plate for the new case. I have heard that it's better not to use it anyways for better air flow? Is this true? I've also read that some mods include cutting the back or something? I can't seem to find that mod anywhere anymore. Is it ok if I don't have an i/o shield if I want maximum air cooling?

2. I'll be using 2 200mm megaflow fans and the 2 stock 120mm fans from my haf 912 if thats possible. What would be the best setup for air cooling?

These are my specs :

i5 2500k w/ hyper 212 cooler
r9 280x
1 TB hdd
520W antec HCG

This is my first time upgrading my computer case so I am pretty excited. Hoping that I don't mess up.


----------



## MrKoala

Enthoo Pro has only one 200mm fan slot and is shipped with one 200m fan already. It seems to be similar to the MegaFlow in terms of speed and flow rate, so it's your call which one to keep. The case is also shipped with 3 140mm fans, you would have some flexibility.

Not using the I/O shield is perfectly fine, but with something as well vented as the Enthoo Pro you probably won't see any benefit. Be a bit more careful when you're plugging stuff in.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrKoala*
> 
> Enthoo Pro has only one 200mm fan slot and is shipped with one 200m fan already. It seems to be similar to the MegaFlow in terms of speed and flow rate, so it's your call which one to keep. The case is also shipped with 3 140mm fans, you would have some flexibility.
> 
> Not using the I/O shield is perfectly fine, but with something as well vented as the Enthoo Pro you probably won't see any benefit. Be a bit more careful when you're plugging stuff in.


the pro can take two 200mm one in front and one on the top in the rear...


----------



## dman811

My Pro only came with the 140mm and the 200mm...


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dman811*
> 
> My Pro only came with the 140mm and the 200mm...


same...I'm thinking primo comes with 3


----------



## zerophase

Has anyone managed to mount a 480 rad in the bottom of the case? I tried flipping the case over, and sliding the radiator in with the pull fans on, but can't get the fans to remain lined up while balancing the thing. Wish those Koolance screws would fit EK rads.


----------



## MrKoala

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> the pro can take two 200mm one in front and one on the top in the rear...


That's 140mm.

*One* 200mm or *two* 140/120mm in the front, one 140/120mm in the rear.

A 200m or two can fit on the top IIRC, but the sides will be blocked.


----------



## dman811

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrKoala*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> the pro can take two 200mm one in front and one on the top in the rear...
> 
> 
> 
> That's 140mm.
> 
> *One* 200mm or *two* 140/120mm in the front, one 140/120mm in the rear.
> 
> A 200m or two can fit on the top IIRC, but the sides will be blocked.
Click to expand...

That is exactly what he said.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dman811*
> 
> That is exactly what he said.


yes and if you did two you would have to make holes for the second one iirc whereas the holes for the top 200mm fan are already there


----------



## MrKoala

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dman811*
> 
> That is exactly what he said.












I need more sleep.


----------



## Harrywang

Has anyone tried cutting the peices out of back grill/plate of there enthoo pro? I have heard this increases air flow and reduces noise?


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> same...I'm thinking primo comes with 3


Enthoo Primo comes with 5x F140SP fans, 2 of them are led fans.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Harrywang*
> 
> Has anyone tried cutting the peices out of back grill/plate of there enthoo pro? I have heard this increases air flow and reduces noise?


I have not done this on a Enthoo, but have on other cases. Yes it does improve airflow and lower noise levels, but it is relative to the amount of vent area and fans being used. The Pro has lots of venting, so the difference will not be as great as on a chase with less vent area.


----------



## colinmcr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrKoala*
> 
> I see some inner side panel murder going on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There seems to be no reservoir near the pump. Is it feeding through the back?


Yeah its an XSPC all in one bay res/pump









The side panel will have this ssd mount instead


----------



## Alan G

I could use some feedback on the noise level of the EVOLV case as I'm looking at it as an option for a new workstation. I seen good reviews of the case but a couple of users have complained that HDDs are too noisy and that there is some other case noise as well. This is critical as the PC will be sitting on my smallish desk about 18 inches away. I'll have two WD 2TB HDDs along with an SSD for the OS. It will be air-cooled and and used for photo editing, programming, and general office work. I'm not much of a gamer unless I get a free one from equipment deals. I've done some OCing in the past but that's not a major thing for me right now but I'll retain the option.

Also, are the installed case fans OK or would I be looking to replace them?

thanks in advance!


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *colinmcr*
> 
> Yeah its an XSPC all in one bay res/pump
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The side panel will have this ssd mount instead


that looks pro....pun intended


----------



## OGBeandip

Does anyone have the image this entry in the FAQ is referencing?

I just bought an Enthoo Primo and had this exact question. The FAQ says theres an image below that shows the modification talked about in the entry, but the image isnt there.
Quote:


> Can I install 2 PSUs in the Enthoo Primo and still use the bottom of the case for a 480mm radiator?
> - Yes, you can easily do that, as seen in the picture below you would just have to modify the bottom of the case a bit. Either cut the marked part off, or bend it back straight. I would suggest using some Velcro straps to hold the PSU down. A 90 degree angled cable will make the job easier.


----------



## GhettoFied

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TMatzelle60*
> 
> FD Define S is a really great case and not super expensive !


Yeah I am looking at those but I really don't want a silent case. I have components that run very quiet already so I want to get something airflow optimised.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OGBeandip*
> 
> Does anyone have the image this entry in the FAQ is referencing?
> 
> I just bought an Enthoo Primo and had this exact question. The FAQ says theres an image below that shows the modification talked about in the entry, but the image isnt there.


Sorry about that.








It was in CaptainCurrySauce's review & build in The MODZOO forum.


Quote:


> For people who are running some real power hungry systems, you can install two PSUs without sacrificing any radiator space in the bottom of the case. In order to mount a second power supply properly, you are going to need to make some modifications. You will need a right angle power cable adapter. Pictured above is an AX 1200i and a Seasonic X-1050 power supply. To get the second PSU flush, you will have to either remove the little bend or straighten it out.



http://themodzoo.com/2013/09/reviews/cases/full-tower/phanteks-enthoo-primo-full-tower/4/

While I haven't tried this, it appears that if top HDD cage was removed too, the PSU might be able to stand on end with exhaust out bottom of case rather than front.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GhettoFied*
> 
> Yeah I am looking at those but I really don't want a silent case. I have components that run very quiet already so I want to get something airflow optimised.


Define series cases have quite good airflow. S will be better than others as there is no door blocking front intake. The Arc series is good too.

I have built several and help many others setup Define cases. All have ran cool and quiet. My own Define R2 is modified with 140mm fans. Runing 920 @ 4.0GHz under PH-TC14PE running 100% load is 62c @ 34dBA in 22c room .. barely audible. More info in "Ways to Better Cooling" link in sig. First post in index. Click on subject of interest.


----------



## zerophase

I need to drill a hole in my Primo to fit a bleed port on the top radiator. Does anyone know how close to the radiator top mount I can drill without risking the radiator falling over time?


----------



## Faster_is_better

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zerophase*
> 
> I need to drill a hole in my Primo to fit a bleed port on the top radiator. Does anyone know how close to the radiator top mount I can drill without risking the radiator falling over time?


Where do you want to drill the hole at? Like this on top or through one of the sides?


----------



## zerophase

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Faster_is_better*
> 
> Where do you want to drill the hole at? Like this on top or through one of the sides?


On top by where you have the holes. After drilling the hole I noticed hole doesn't perfectly match up with the top radiator port. I probably need to go forward cutting out part of the up raised lip.


----------



## Faster_is_better

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zerophase*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Faster_is_better*
> 
> Where do you want to drill the hole at? Like this on top or through one of the sides?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On top by where you have the holes. After drilling the hole I noticed hole doesn't perfectly match up with the top radiator port. I probably need to go forward cutting out part of the up raised lip.
Click to expand...

Yep those holes match a 480mm Alphacool XT45, your radiator may be different. I wouldn't worry about cutting into that lip to much, as long as you leave some of it. Really there is a lot of metal on the other side of the holes toward the back of the case that provides structure anyway so you could actually cut out a lot and not have to worry.


----------



## zerophase

Well, think the hole is functional, and dull enough to not cut anything. Sure, IA hard to get all of those metal shavings out.

Anyone have good tips for getting metal shavings out of a case? I blew it down for a good half hour with a datavac. Don't really see any shavings, but still paranoid a stray piece of metal, met bridge something when I put the mobo back in. I'll give it a once over in the morning.


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zerophase*
> 
> Well, think the hole is functional, and dull enough to not cut anything. Sure, IA hard to get all of those metal shavings out.
> 
> Anyone have good tips for getting metal shavings out of a case? I blew it down for a good half hour with a datavac. Don't really see any shavings, but still paranoid a stray piece of metal, met bridge something when I put the mobo back in. I'll give it a once over in the morning.


use a paintbrush, then use something like compressed air or other means to blow the stuff away. that goes for deeply settled dust too.


----------



## MKHunt

microfiber cloth wrapped around a strong neodymium magnet.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MKHunt*
> 
> microfiber cloth wrapped around a strong neodymium magnet.


High powered magnet will do the trick.








Just be sure no HDDs or memory chips are nearby.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> High powered magnet will do the trick.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just be sure no HDDs or memory chips are nearby.


I use one of the magnetic pickup tools for bolts and nuts dropped in engine compartments and such...it's really good for this because it has a light on the end and its telescopic and flexible


----------



## zerophase

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> High powered magnet will do the trick.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just be sure no HDDs or memory chips are nearby.


Just a fan controller in the case, and the case was moved to another room.


----------



## zerophase

So, the table with all of the hardware is right next to my front door. How Close do you think I could get a neodymium magnet, without killing everything on there?


----------



## MKHunt

Within a few inches. Magnetic waves propagate very poorly in air. Shoot, 900D uses magnets to hold the pedestal doors closed. There are SATA drive cages installed down there from factory.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zerophase*
> 
> So, the table with all of the hardware is right next to my front door. How Close do you think I could get a neodymium magnet, without killing everything on there?


At least arm's length.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MKHunt*
> 
> Within a few inches. Magnetic waves propagate very poorly in air. Shoot, 900D uses magnets to hold the pedestal doors closed. There are SATA drive cages installed down there from factory.


True, but those little door magnets are a little thing compared to bigger hi-powered magnets. They won't even grab each other through your finger while big magnets will crush your hand.


----------



## zerophase

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MKHunt*
> 
> Within a few inches. Magnetic waves propagate very poorly in air. Shoot, 900D uses magnets to hold the pedestal doors closed. There are SATA drive cages installed down there from factory.


Wait, are you suggesting picking up one of those huge magnets that can takeout a crt from a foot away?


----------



## MrKoala

Enthoo Pro/Luxe owners, can someone measure the height of the mobo standoffs for me? Is it M3 screw? How many standoffs (both installed and in the box) were provided?


----------



## Talo

I'm in the market for a new case and the Enthoo Pro seems to be calling my name. I'm coming from an Antec 900 and it just looks like a great change with excellent cable management, fan locations and quality, etc. I really like what Phanteks has done with the market with their CPU cooler offering, now this case with great features for a great price, so I want to give my business to a company that has this sort of innovation and impact on the market.

Is there any noticeable difference between the Luxe and the Pro besides the lighting on the side?

Also, is it worthwhile purchasing any additional case fans for an air cooled system, or will stock be sufficient? I'll be using the Phanteks 12DX CPU cooler.

Thanks!


----------



## MrKoala

Luxe has aluminum front panel and a bit more space at the top. The front mesh is mostly blocked.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Talo*
> 
> I'm in the market for a new case and the Enthoo Pro seems to be calling my name. I'm coming from an Antec 900 and it just looks like a great change with excellent cable management, fan locations and quality, etc. I really like what Phanteks has done with the market with their CPU cooler offering, now this case with great features for a great price, so I want to give my business to a company that has this sort of innovation and impact on the market.
> 
> Is there any noticeable difference between the Luxe and the Pro besides the lighting on the side?
> 
> Also, is it worthwhile purchasing any additional case fans for an air cooled system, or will stock be sufficient? I'll be using the Phanteks 12DX CPU cooler.
> 
> Thanks!


The Luxe provides an additional 25mm up top for fans. This becomes a big deal if you are looking to do push/pull with a top rad. The look of the Luxe is also more polished than the Pro, and if you are into lighting the available LED strips that work in conjunction with the built in controller are a great addition.

The Luxe also has the window and PSU cover standard, while it is optional with the Pro.The Luxe also includes the pump mount.

As far as fans, definitely order an additional F140SP. Take the top F140SP and the additional one and use them as front intake. Move the 200mm to the top as exhaust if you are not mounting a radiator up there - or just order two F140SP and simply replace the 200mm. The 200mm is, to put it nicely, lacking.


----------



## MKHunt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zerophase*
> 
> Wait, are you suggesting picking up one of those huge magnets that can takeout a crt from a foot away?


Oh goodness no lol. I'm thinking like 1/2 inch cylinders max. I use a stack of 'battery button' magnets that are 1/16" thick and about 1/4" diameter for cleaning metal shavings.


----------



## Talo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> The Luxe provides an additional 25mm up top for fans. This becomes a big deal if you are looking to do push/pull with a top rad. The look of the Luxe is also more polished than the Pro, and if you are into lighting the available LED strips that work in conjunction with the built in controller are a great addition.
> 
> The Luxe also has the window and PSU cover standard, while it is optional with the Pro.The Luxe also includes the pump mount.
> 
> As far as fans, definitely order an additional F140SP. Take the top F140SP and the additional one and use them as front intake. Move the 200mm to the top as exhaust if you are not mounting a radiator up there - or just order two F140SP and simply replace the 200mm. The 200mm is, to put it nicely, lacking.


Thanks for the info - I'm doing air cooling for now, but in a few years I will likely switch to water cooling and would want to re-use the case, so radiator is a concern. So assuming a 360mm or 420mm radiator, I would assume only "slim" fit in the Pro while full-size can fit in the Luxe - is that correct, or would the Luxe still need to be a thin version? I'm not really familiar with radiator widths.

That is interesting you mention the 200mm is lacking. The total surface area is just slightly more than 2x 140mm fans, so I would think it should be comparable. Is it specific to the Luxe because there is more blockage in the front? Was your additional fan recommendation for the Luxe or Pro as well? If for the Luxe, then I would assume the Pro would need 2x F140SP fans to do that (I think the pro comes with 1 less 140mm fan).

Thanks again.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Talo*
> 
> Thanks for the info - I'm doing air cooling for now, but in a few years I will likely switch to water cooling and would want to re-use the case, so radiator is a concern. So assuming a 360mm or 420mm radiator, I would assume only "slim" fit in the Pro while full-size can fit in the Luxe - is that correct, or would the Luxe still need to be a thin version? I'm not really familiar with radiator widths.
> 
> That is interesting you mention the 200mm is lacking. The total surface area is just slightly more than 2x 140mm fans, so I would think it should be comparable. Is it specific to the Luxe because there is more blockage in the front? Was your additional fan recommendation for the Luxe or Pro as well? If for the Luxe, then I would assume the Pro would need 2x F140SP fans to do that (I think the pro comes with 1 less 140mm fan).
> 
> Thanks again.


200mm fans simply can't move the air as well as 120mm and 140mm fans do...I've been waiting on a 200mm fan that can do this but it likely won't happen...as for radiators you won't get a 420 x 60 in the top without quite a mod..the primo ifaik fits most 480 and 420 rads but width is a concern someone here has the exact dimensions for those


----------



## ComputAni

Just ordered an Enthoo Primo last night. Should arrive early next week. I'm pumped to be working in this case. I've decided to mount a thick 360mm in the bottom, a slim 240mm in the front, and a slim 360mm in the top. I'll get a thick 480mm in the near future, but for now I'll just recycle my water cooling parts.

I'm transitioning from a 780t to this, so it should be interesting







. (Not sure why I didn't buy the primo to begin with haha).

Will post some pics soon!


----------



## zerophase

Anyone manage to mount anan EK-XTOP Dual DDC 3.2 PWM pump, in the back? The included pump bracket doesn't fit, and the dual pump hard drive cage bracket doesn't fit in the back. I'd mount it in my hdd cages, but then there's no room left for my fan controller.

Anyone know of a pump bracket that fits in the back, which I can just toss some velcro on?


----------



## zerophase

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ComputAni*
> 
> Just ordered an Enthoo Primo last night. Should arrive early next week. I'm pumped to be working in this case. I've decided to mount a thick 360mm in the bottom, a slim 240mm in the front, and a slim 360mm in the top. I'll get a thick 480mm in the near future, but for now I'll just recycle my water cooling parts.
> 
> I'm transitioning from a 780t to this, so it should be interesting
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . (Not sure why I didn't buy the primo to begin with haha).
> 
> Will post some pics soon!


I'm doing the same thing right now. The case has been great so far.


----------



## Reaper28

The Luxe may be spacious but once you cram it full of watercooling hardware it's a pain in the ass to work in especially when doing tubing. I definitely should have used a bay res now that my bottom GPU is sagging because it's being pushed up on one end by my res which is now scratched to hell







. Case quality is good though lol


----------



## Dorito Bandit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Talo*
> 
> I'm in the market for a new case and the Enthoo Pro seems to be calling my name. I'm coming from an Antec 900 and it just looks like a great change with excellent cable management, fan locations and quality, etc. I really like what Phanteks has done with the market with their CPU cooler offering, now this case with great features for a great price, so I want to give my business to a company that has this sort of innovation and impact on the market.
> 
> Is there any noticeable difference between the Luxe and the Pro besides the lighting on the side?
> 
> Also, is it worthwhile purchasing any additional case fans for an air cooled system, or will stock be sufficient? I'll be using the Phanteks 12DX CPU cooler.
> 
> Thanks!


If you do not care about having the LEDs, then save your money and go with the Enthoo Pro. The money you save by going with the Pro could be used towards more fans, or a big bag full of candy! Hey, who don't like candy? MMMMMMMMMM! CAAAAANNNNNDDDDDYYYY!









Seriously, they are both nice cases and you would most likely be happy with either one. However, if you'll be air-cooling, I would recommend going with the Pro as it has better ventilation in the front. The front of the Luxe is somewhat restricted. I own the Pro and love it. Cable management is awesome, and it has plenty of room on the inside. It's a large case, and it's also a fantastic case. You're getting one hell of a case for the money!

I think the stock fans (1x 140mm and 1x 200mm) on the Pro are very nice, quiet, high quality fans. Once you've built your system, test the fans out for a day or so. If you think you need more fans, then grab one or two more.

Also, here is a post I made a while back with videos and reviews I collected from around the web of the Enthoo Pro. Get it all right here: http://www.overclock.net/t/1418637/official-case-phanteks-club-enthoo-primo-enthoo-pro-lovers-owners/4540_20#post_22561958

Best of luck with your decision and have fun building your new PC!


----------



## dkevox

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zerophase*
> 
> Anyone manage to mount anan EK-XTOP Dual DDC 3.2 PWM pump, in the back? The included pump bracket doesn't fit, and the dual pump hard drive cage bracket doesn't fit in the back. I'd mount it in my hdd cages, but then there's no room left for my fan controller.
> 
> Anyone know of a pump bracket that fits in the back, which I can just toss some velcro on?


I tried to mount a pair of D5 pumps with an ek dual pump top back there but couldn't get it to fit and clear my psu (ax1500i). So I eventually decided to mount it in the hard drive area and put a single d5 PWM with an ek high flow top in the back there.

For both setups I used the included enthoo pump bracket (ordered a second one). The bracket did not mount to these pumps, but it was very easy to drill holes in the right places in the bracket to mount it and position the pumps where I wanted them.

Here's a crappy cell phone pic of how they sit. Sorry for the mess, still building the PC. But you can get and idea about clearances, cause I assume the dual ddc pump top is roughly the same size.


----------



## zerophase

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dkevox*
> 
> I tried to mount a pair of D5 pumps with an ek dual pump top back there but couldn't get it to fit and clear my psu (ax1500i). So I eventually decided to mount it in the hard drive area and put a single d5 PWM with an ek high flow top in the back there.
> 
> For both setups I used the included enthoo pump bracket (ordered a second one). The bracket did not mount to these pumps, but it was very easy to drill holes in the right places in the bracket to mount it and position the pumps where I wanted them.
> 
> Here's a crappy cell phone pic of how they sit. Sorry for the mess, still building the PC. But you can get and idea about clearances, cause I assume the dual ddc pump top is roughly the same size.


Think I might try picking up one of those pump mounts to 14 inch fan,and see if I can just mount it to the fan bracket. Might help keep the pump cool.


----------



## owcraftsman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrKoala*
> 
> Enthoo Pro/Luxe owners, can someone measure the height of the mobo standoffs for me? Is it M3 screw? How many standoffs (both installed and in the box) were provided?


Luxe 6mm I will have to check on the threading

edit: After closer inspection of an extra stand off in my Luxe accessory box it appears to be the same threading as the 31mm HDD fan mount screws, 6-32.


----------



## MrKoala

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *owcraftsman*
> 
> Luxe 6mm I will have to check on the threading
> 
> edit: After closer inspection of an extra stand off in my Luxe accessory box it appears to be the same threading as the 31mm HDD fan mount screws, 6-32.


Thanks!

Is it exactly 6.0mm? ATX spec demands at least 6.4mm of clearance so 6mm sound like it's below spec.

Is it true that the case was shipped with 9 standoffs installed and 2 extra in the accessory box? Two standoff holes on the EEB mobo I'm planning to use still don't match. If there are 2 extras I should be able to use them as nuts and reverse mount the standoffs to provide support.


----------



## Talo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dorito Bandit*
> 
> If you do not care about having the LEDs, then save your money and go with the Enthoo Pro. The money you save by going with the Pro could be used towards more fans, or a big bag full of candy! Hey, who don't like candy? MMMMMMMMMM! CAAAAANNNNNDDDDDYYYY!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Seriously, they are both nice cases and you would most likely be happy with either one. However, if you'll be air-cooling, I would recommend going with the Pro as it has better ventilation in the front. The front of the Luxe is somewhat restricted. I own the Pro and love it. Cable management is awesome, and it has plenty of room on the inside. It's a large case, and it's also a fantastic case. You're getting one hell of a case for the money!
> 
> I think the stock fans (1x 140mm and 1x 200mm) on the Pro are very nice, quiet, high quality fans. Once you've built your system, test the fans out for a day or so. If you think you need more fans, then grab one or two more.
> 
> Also, here is a post I made a while back with videos and reviews I collected from around the web of the Enthoo Pro. Get it all right here: http://www.overclock.net/t/1418637/official-case-phanteks-club-enthoo-primo-enthoo-pro-lovers-owners/4540_20#post_22561958
> 
> Best of luck with your decision and have fun building your new PC!


Thanks for all the info.

I am doing air cooling right now, but in a year or two when I eventually upgrade my CPU and motherboard, I'll likely change to watercooling. Watercooling is something I've been interested in, I just haven't had the need to do so with my current builds.

The main thing I am interested in is efficiency. I've seen some builds with 3 radiators in them, and I don't know if that is really necessary or offers much improved cooling over 2. The extra room the Luxe offers at the top allows for a thicker radiator - although from what I've seen it will still need to be on the thin side. Does that increased radiator thickness actually offer much of a benefit in cooling, or would it maybe just be a degree or two?

LEDs and all that stuff are fun to look at, but I don't need them and just having a window in my case is enough for me.

Also - just for full consideration purposes, is there any other case around the $100 range besides the Pro with similar features that I should really consider? I think when it comes down to it I'm going to go with Phanteks since I want to support them as a company since they keep on doing great things, and they deserve my business as a result - but just need to do my due diligence. I was recommended the Rosewill Rise Glow and NZXT s340 but prefer the Pro over both. Wasn't sure if anything else came close.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Talo*
> 
> Thanks for all the info.
> 
> I am doing air cooling right now, but in a year or two when I eventually upgrade my CPU and motherboard, I'll likely change to watercooling. Watercooling is something I've been interested in, I just haven't had the need to do so with my current builds.
> 
> The main thing I am interested in is efficiency. I've seen some builds with 3 radiators in them, and I don't know if that is really necessary or offers much improved cooling over 2. The extra room the Luxe offers at the top allows for a thicker radiator - although from what I've seen it will still need to be on the thin side. Does that increased radiator thickness actually offer much of a benefit in cooling, or would it maybe just be a degree or two?
> 
> LEDs and all that stuff are fun to look at, but I don't need them and just having a window in my case is enough for me.
> 
> Also - just for full consideration purposes, is there any other case around the $100 range besides the Pro with similar features that I should really consider? I think when it comes down to it I'm going to go with Phanteks since I want to support them as a company since they keep on doing great things, and they deserve my business as a result - but just need to do my due diligence. I was recommended the Rosewill Rise Glow and NZXT s340 but prefer the Pro over both. Wasn't sure if anything else came close.


The only case in the $100 price range that you could really make any kind of argument for would be the Fractal Design Define D5. The S340 is not a comparable model in any way, and the Rosewill is nowhere near the quality of a Phanteks or Fractal.


----------



## Talo

I have heard good things about Fractal Design cases.

After looking at the D5 though, I am just further convinced that the Pro (or potentially the Luxe) is the one for me.

Thanks for the suggestion.


----------



## owcraftsman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrKoala*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *owcraftsman*
> 
> Luxe 6mm I will have to check on the threading
> 
> edit: After closer inspection of an extra stand off in my Luxe accessory box it appears to be the same threading as the 31mm HDD fan mount screws, 6-32.
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> Is it exactly 6.0mm? ATX spec demands at least 6.4mm of clearance so 6mm sound like it's below spec.
> 
> Is it true that the case was shipped with 9 standoffs installed and 2 extra in the accessory box? Two standoff holes on the EEB mobo I'm planning to use still don't match. If there are 2 extras I should be able to use them as nuts and reverse mount the standoffs to provide support.
Click to expand...

I don't have precision calipers but if anything it's under 6mm.

It is my understanding 6mm is a common height for mobo standoffs.

My Luxe came with 9 installed and 2 spare.


----------



## Talo

Just bought the Enthoo Luxe and an addition 140mm Phanteks SP fan.

For a $50 difference I would have just gone with the Pro, but I had a 10% discount available. I also knew that I wanted two 140mm fans in the front for intake, one 140mm for rear exhaust, and the 200mm at the top for exhaust. Considering the Luxe comes with an additional fan, the marginal price difference decreased to $30 in which case I figured may as well go for it.

Can't wait till I get the case in and move my system over. I also bought a Gigabyte G1 GTX 970 yesterday which doesn't fit in my current case, so this will be a nice upgrade all around (my current GPU is a Radeon 4870, so a huge increase).

I'll take pictures showing how dusty and crowded my current Antec 900 looks, and we'll see where I end up once the Luxe is complete.


----------



## MrKoala

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *owcraftsman*
> 
> I don't have precision calipers but if anything it's under 6mm.
> It is my understanding 6mm is a common height for mobo standoffs.
> My Luxe came with 9 installed and 2 spare.


Thanks.

I might buy a few 6mm stands just to be sure.


----------



## owcraftsman

@MrKoala I see only 8 physical attachments on the EEB and based on dimensions looks like a tight but doable fit in a Luxe. However I don't have the board in person maybe there are more I can't see from images.


----------



## evo2391

I have a question about aesthetics. Do you think red tubing in the red version of the ethoo primo would be too much? It's a black and red themed build and I'm worried after actually building it I'll regret all the red. The black version is nice, but those blue led's really kill it for me. Suppose I could try the led mod if I go in that direction.


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *evo2391*
> 
> I have a question about aesthetics. Do you think red tubing in the red version of the ethoo primo would be too much? It's a black and red themed build and I'm worried after actually building it I'll regret all the red. The black version is nice, but those blue led's really kill it for me. Suppose I could try the led mod if I go in that direction.


Personally I think it would be too much, inside of that case is awfully red already. You could always to with black tuning.


----------



## OGBeandip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *evo2391*
> 
> I have a question about aesthetics. Do you think red tubing in the red version of the ethoo primo would be too much? It's a black and red themed build and I'm worried after actually building it I'll regret all the red. The black version is nice, but those blue led's really kill it for me. Suppose I could try the led mod if I go in that direction.


Im having the same problem you are. Im doing a black and green build. The green case though would take away all the contrast and just look overpowering. I think it would be the same way with the red. I went with the normal Enthoo Primo and will probably do the LED mod to get a green LED.


----------



## MKHunt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *evo2391*
> 
> I have a question about aesthetics. Do you think red tubing in the red version of the ethoo primo would be too much? It's a black and red themed build and I'm worried after actually building it I'll regret all the red. The black version is nice, but those blue led's really kill it for me. Suppose I could try the led mod if I go in that direction.


THe window covers most of the inside. With an all black mobo it would be fine, but be careful of how red the mobo is. Furthermore, black vinyl on the bottom (PSU cover area) would fix the lack of contrast.

Forgive so-so cam and lighting. Impromptu cell shot.



Remember only the mobo area and the badge are visible through the _tinted_ windows.


----------



## Andromendous

Hello all, new to the forums, I was just wondering, I recently did a build using a Thermaltake Core v71 as the case, It had 3 200mm fans, 2 in front and 1 on the top. Personally, I was a bit disappointed with the amount of air they moved at full speed, even if i open the case and put my hand right next to the back of the fan where its blowing, i could barely feel any air. I know that with the bigger size fan, its moving a large amount of air, but very slowly. But still, I just wonder, with this case, how does the 200mm fan in this case do? Is it similar to the way i described?

Thanks for any input


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrKoala*
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> Is it exactly 6.0mm? ATX spec demands at least 6.4mm of clearance so 6mm sound like it's below spec.
> 
> Is it true that the case was shipped with 9 standoffs installed and 2 extra in the accessory box? Two standoff holes on the EEB mobo I'm planning to use still don't match. If there are 2 extras I should be able to use them as nuts and reverse mount the standoffs to provide support.


Using a digital caliper they measure 6.0 mm. I checked by measuring from surface of standoff to motherboard tray as well as uninstalled standoff.









You can probably use some 0.30mm thick washer / shim under the standoffs or on back of mobo with little if any problem. After all, 0.43 mm is about the thickness of a matchbook cover.
But be wary, increasing the standoff may cause problems with I/O and PCI-e mount openings,


----------



## Sethos88

Guys, is it possible to fit something like 2 x Kraken X31 at both the rear exhaust points, top and bottom in a Primo? I assume it'll fit at the top one but not sure about the bottom.

Perhaps, an X61 on the floor of the case and an X31 at the bottom rear exhaust point, would that be possible?


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sethos88*
> 
> Guys, is it possible to fit something like 2 x Kraken X31 at both the rear exhaust points, top and bottom in a Primo? I assume it'll fit at the top one but not sure about the bottom.
> 
> Perhaps, an X61 on the floor of the case and an X31 at the bottom rear exhaust point, would that be possible?


You might want to check out some photos of CLCs vs an actual loop in a Primo.....unless you are going for the "someone threw a squid in a giant case" look.


----------



## Sethos88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> You might want to check out some photos of CLCs vs an actual loop in a Primo.....unless you are going for the "someone threw a squid in a giant case" look.


What do you mean, you want me to look at the cable-spaghetti? I'm planning on slapping some G10s on my SLI setup, so I'd have to deal with it at any rate. Might potentially just mount 2 x X31s on the floor.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sethos88*
> 
> What do you mean, you want me to look at the cable-spaghetti? I'm planning on slapping some G10s on my SLI setup, so I'd have to deal with it at any rate. Might potentially just mount 2 x X31s on the floor.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MKHunt*


I was actually pointing out the *lack* of cable spaghetti as pictured above....which happened to simply be the first pic I came across in the thread.

Imagine this, if you will. You walk into a multi-million dollar house that is a near flawless, and very large construction. The only piece of furniture in it is a futon from Ikea found in the trash outside a dorm. The only other things in the house are kids toys strewn all around the futon.

Sorry, just my opinion, but that is exactly what CLCs in a Primo look like to me. You have the ultimate liquid cooling case, and you are not going to liquid cool - same as buying a huge house and not furnishing it.


----------



## Sethos88

Okay. Thanks for you help.


----------



## evo2391

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OGBeandip*
> 
> Im having the same problem you are. Im doing a black and green build. The green case though would take away all the contrast and just look overpowering. I think it would be the same way with the red. I went with the normal Enthoo Primo and will probably do the LED mod to get a green LED.


Yeah, that's just what I decided to do. Plus, you can just turn off the LEDs. Although, I bought some red vinyl in case I want to accent the interior. I'd love to see how your build turns.


----------



## OGBeandip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *evo2391*
> 
> Yeah, that's just what I decided to do. Plus, you can just turn off the LEDs. Although, I bought some red vinyl in case I want to accent the interior. I'd love to see how your build turns.


Thanks, do you have a build log going?


----------



## OGBeandip

I wonder if there would be a way to do the LED mod without soldering. My equipment broke while working on a pump.

I might be able to use electrical tape with a metal shiv placed under it to make contacts.


----------



## evo2391

Not yet. Waiting on buying the bulk of the parts until later this week. First attempt at water cooling so it could be an interesting build haha


----------



## OGBeandip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *evo2391*
> 
> Not yet. Waiting on buying the bulk of the parts until later this week. First attempt at water cooling so it could be an interesting build haha


Well make sure to link it to me once you start it. Sounds like it will turn out good. And good luck with the watercooling, its easier than it looks at first.


----------



## Thunderclez

So I was a member of this site long ago, and purchased a 350D. The owners clubs here have always been a go to source to get a feel for various hardware(s) and I appreciate everyone contributing.

The 350D is gone, I have a s340 now which is a great case, but when I saw the Phanteks Evolv line, I fell in love. I wanted to go with the ITX, but I could not resist the white evolv, it also looked like it moved air better for performance GPU's. I just ordered it.... I am gonna stick stuff from my wife's newly parted out machine in there along with mine (She got a laptop)....

I'm.... Excited.....









Pics will happen!!


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Thunderclez*
> 
> So I was a member of this site long ago, and purchased a 350D. The owners clubs here have always been a go to source to get a feel for various hardware(s) and I appreciate everyone contributing.
> 
> The 350D is gone, I have a s340 now which is a great case, but when I saw the Phanteks Evolv line, I fell in love. I wanted to go with the ITX, but I could not resist the white evolv, it also looked like it moved air better for performance GPU's. I just ordered it.... I am gonna stick stuff from my wife's newly parted out machine in there along with mine (She got a laptop)....
> 
> I'm.... Excited.....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Pics will happen!!


I love my Evol-iTX, it's a great little case.


----------



## Micdeez

How are you guys finding the build quality of the Enthoo Luxe?

I am case-less right now. Not sure whether to go for this or wait for Parvum to release their ATX version.

The Luxe looks quite neat.


----------



## MrKoala

How did you became "caseless"?


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Micdeez*
> 
> How are you guys finding the build quality of the Enthoo Luxe?
> 
> I am case-less right now. Not sure whether to go for this or wait for Parvum to release their ATX version.
> 
> The Luxe looks quite neat.


The build quality of all of the Phanteks cases is very good. On par with Fractal, significantly better than Corsair/Cooler Master/Tt/etc.


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Micdeez*
> 
> How are you guys finding the build quality of the Enthoo Luxe?
> 
> I am case-less right now. Not sure whether to go for this or wait for Parvum to release their ATX version.
> 
> The Luxe looks quite neat.


pretty good.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> The build quality of all of the Phanteks cases is very good. On par with Fractal, significantly better than Corsair/Cooler Master/Tt/etc.


fractal build quality is nothing above average, even with corsair's recent efforts in my experience. in fact, it's their only weakness, they are gods of space efficiency and attention to detail. some coolermaster cases have very good build quality. that's about the only positive I have left to say about them these days. hope that new master case changes that.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PureBlackFire*
> 
> pretty good.
> fractal build quality is nothing above average, even with corsair's recent efforts in my experience. in fact, it's their only weakness, they are gods of space efficiency and attention to detail. some coolermaster cases have very good build quality. that's about the only positive I have left to say about them these days. hope that new master case changes that.


Interesting - I haven't used any of the latest Fractals, I was basing the statement off using the Define R4 and Define XL, which were a world away from mainstream cases. The Arc series weren't as well appointed, but they also weren't at the same price point. Has Fractal's quality gone down a bit (which would be disappointing), or do we simply differ in opinion?


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Interesting - I haven't used any of the latest Fractals, I was basing the statement off using the Define R4 and Define XL, which were a world away from mainstream cases. The Arc series weren't as well appointed, but they also weren't at the same price point. Has Fractal's quality gone down a bit (which would be disappointing), or do we simply differ in opinion?


it's likely just the latter. the Arc and core series are what I've most had hands on from fractal and though not poor, of course they aren't amazing. the R5 also isn't anything to write home about in that one are (build quality), not that it's something like a TT case or anything. feels at parity with the likes of the new obsidian line IMO.


----------



## doyll

Phanteks cases are well built for a production case .. but they are mass produced and therefore are not perfect.

They are one of the very best in their price range .. and better than many that cost much more.


----------



## Micdeez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrKoala*
> 
> How did you became "caseless"?


I have a new build nearly ready to go. I need a new case and graphics card. I have boxes stacked up full of gear and I've been patiently waiting for a new home... Just not a lot of cases I like right now.

The Luxe looks good though. Parvum when they release their ATX I might be keen. Originally I wanted Caselabs, but they only sell black (boring) so no dice there, I need white!


----------



## dikkiedirk

The Entoo Pro M is a fair bit smaller than the Enthoo Pro, right?

So, does the Enthoo Pro M have enough room in the top to hold a 30mm 280 rad plus fans AND a Swiftech H140X in the back? Or should the 280 go in the front or perhaps the H140X? And have room for some 3.5 inch harddisk brackets? Are there harddisk brackets included with the Pro M?


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dikkiedirk*
> 
> The Entoo Pro M is a fair bit smaller than the Enthoo Pro, right?
> 
> So, does the Enthoo Pro M have enough room in the top to hold a 30mm 280 rad plus fans AND a Swiftech H140X in the back? Or should the 280 go in the front or perhaps the H140X? And have room for some 3.5 inch harddisk brackets? Are there harddisk brackets included with the Pro M?


It is the same chassis as the Evolv ATX, this should give you some insight -


----------



## dikkiedirk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> It is the same chassis as the Evolv ATX, this should give you some insight -


Thanks for that, If I gonna mount that 280 in the top I gonna loose the OD bay in the Pro M. Can the 280 rad be moved up to the front of the case?


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dikkiedirk*
> 
> Thanks for that, If I gonna mount that 280 in the top I gonna loose the OD bay in the Pro M. Can the 280 rad be moved up to the front of the case?


The front can take a 280 or 360mm if you are doing a 280mm on top.


----------



## n00bftw

will the enthoo luxe fit dual 200mm fans up top ?


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *n00bftw*
> 
> will the enthoo luxe fit dual 200mm fans up top ?


you mean above the top or inside on to...either way you would have to make holes for second one our secure it other ways


----------



## ComputAni

Add me to the club. Bro just took a pic of the Primo that somehow hopped in the door. Apparently he thought it was a TV


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ComputAni*
> 
> 
> 
> Add me to the club. Bro just took a pic of the Primo that somehow hopped in the door. Apparently he thought it was a TV


Sweet tv and lol @ the heavy sticker, just wait until it is filled with water cooling goodness.


----------



## By-Tor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rfarmer*
> 
> Sweet tv and lol @ the heavy sticker, just wait until it is filled with water cooling goodness.


My Primo is heavier empty than the Lian Li case it replaced with all my gear in it....


----------



## OGBeandip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *By-Tor*
> 
> My Primo is heavier empty than the Lian Li case it replaced with all my gear in it....


My empty primo was heavier than my watercooled 750D


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *By-Tor*
> 
> My Primo is heavier empty than the Lian Li case it replaced with all my gear in it....


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OGBeandip*
> 
> My empty primo was heavier than my watercooled 750D


Wow, had no idea it was that heavy.


----------



## OGBeandip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rfarmer*
> 
> Wow, had no idea it was that heavy.


45+ pounds easy.

The 750D at the time was around 40-45


----------



## dman811

Newegg says 39.46 lbs


----------



## Faster_is_better

That plastic really adds up it seems










Newegg claims it weighs just above 39 lbs ninjad

Quite the step up from my HAF 932 which weighs 29 lbs... and it's no small case either.

Hmm I have a feeling my totally watercooled Primo is going to be nearing 80lb range when full of water/parts...


----------



## Said Nobody

Can the Enthoo pro full tower do h100i push/pull fans?


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Said Nobody*
> 
> Can the Enthoo pro full tower do h100i push/pull fans?


not in the top baby. at least not with most motherboards.


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Faster_is_better*
> 
> That plastic really adds up it seems
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Newegg claims it weighs just above 39 lbs ninjad
> 
> Quite the step up from my HAF 932 which weighs 29 lbs... and it's no small case either.
> 
> Hmm I have a feeling my totally watercooled Primo is going to be nearing 80lb range when full of water/parts...


Do you keep a forklift handy?


----------



## Said Nobody

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PureBlackFire*
> 
> not in the top baby. at least not with most motherboards.


what about the sides? Is there a performance difference from placing it in the sides instead of the top?


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rfarmer*
> 
> Do you keep a forklift handy?


Caster base does the job nicely. Also improves airflow to bottom.









Not my rig, just by base.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Said Nobody*
> 
> what about the sides? Is there a performance difference from placing it in the sides instead of the top?


There should be no performance difference due to orientation.

Speaking of no performance difference.....why not simply have it in push exhaust at the top? Running a slim rad in push/pull essentially yields no performance gains, it tends to only elevate the noise level.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Faster_is_better*
> 
> That plastic really adds up it seems
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Newegg claims it weighs just above 39 lbs ninjad
> 
> Quite the step up from my HAF 932 which weighs 29 lbs... and it's no small case either.
> 
> Hmm I have a feeling my totally watercooled Primo is going to be nearing 80lb range when full of water/parts...


It's pretty amazing how quickly the weight adds up. My Primo weighed in at a little over 80 pounds when it was full. A huge reason I moved my build into the Evolv ATX was that I got tired of picking it up to work on it. Next maintenance I will likely move it into the Luxe, which is where I wanted to move it initially.....but I had to do a WaCo write up on the Evolv ATX so it just wound up there for the moment.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

My pro weights nearly 60 I'd hate to see it if I bought the primo with two huge 480s lol


----------



## ComputAni

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> My pro weights nearly 60 I'd hate to see it if I bought the primo with two huge 480s lol


Woah, your Enthoo Pro weighs 60??? That's insane. I'm praying that my Primo doesn't weigh over 60 and I've got a thick 480, thick 360 and thin 240 in addition to the usual goodies. Hahaha, the build quality of these cases,however, seems solid so far, so I'm not complaining


----------



## FastRedPonyCar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *evo2391*
> 
> I have a question about aesthetics. Do you think red tubing in the red version of the ethoo primo would be too much? It's a black and red themed build and I'm worried after actually building it I'll regret all the red. The black version is nice, but those blue led's really kill it for me. Suppose I could try the led mod if I go in that direction.


I'm going to be using Mayhem's red pastel fluid in mine with some of the red XSPC sleeved LED's but I applied some 3M Carbon fiber wrap to offset some of the red. I also briefly considered trying to find actual black coolant but I don't think any pastel black coolant exists... yet. I suppose black tubing would have been easier if I went that route but the black coolant in the transparent gpu/cpu blocks and reservoir would look rad.


----------



## dman811

Case = 39.46lbs

Motherboard = 6-8lbs

GPU = 3-5lbs

PSU = 8-10lbs

You'll go over on the high end of that hardware, just under on the low end. Add in rads, water, etc, and you're well above 60lbs.


----------



## Faster_is_better

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rfarmer*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Faster_is_better*
> 
> That plastic really adds up it seems
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Newegg claims it weighs just above 39 lbs ninjad
> 
> Quite the step up from my HAF 932 which weighs 29 lbs... and it's no small case either.
> 
> Hmm I have a feeling my totally watercooled Primo is going to be nearing 80lb range when full of water/parts...
> 
> 
> 
> Do you keep a forklift handy?
Click to expand...

May have to take up another hobby, _weighlifting_. lol
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> My pro weights nearly 60 I'd hate to see it if I bought the primo with two huge 480s lol


Exactly where I'm going with mine


----------



## dman811

I don't consider myself to be a strong guy, but I can lift 150lbs and carry it about 300ft without an issue. You may hear me grunt and groan, but that's what I do when I lift stuff.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Yeah I tried to lift a brand new Alienware in this crazy pyramid-shaped case at work (5960X and two 12GB Titan Xs; for rendering) and I damn near popped a disc in my back.

Sometimes its not just the weight but also the bulk.


----------



## FastRedPonyCar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> Yeah I tried to lift a brand new Alienware in this crazy pyramid-shaped case at work (5960X and two 12GB Titan Xs; for rendering) and I damn near popped a disc in my back.
> 
> Sometimes its not just the weight but also the bulk.


yeah it's an awkward shape to grab and carry. You just gotta bear hug it around. The fact that the Primo's panels are easy pop-off don't help.

I'm going to end up making my own dolly with rollers to permanetly set the case on once I'm done.


----------



## Reaper28

Fixed my sagging GPU issue, got an EK terminal. I'm not sure how I like that it blocks the glow off so much but I think it looks good with the red/black theme. I could have finally started test leaking but I need another 45' fitting. Sigh.


----------



## PureBlackFire

comparison




simple, need a 5.25" bay, Pro M. don't need one, Define S.


----------



## Dorito Bandit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PureBlackFire*
> 
> comparison
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> simple, need a 5.25" bay, Pro M. don't need one, Define S.


Or, want a much better looking case? Go with the Enthoo Pro M.







The Entho Pro M is a hell of a lot better looking case! The Define S looks like a small refrigerator to me. I don't like the front of the Define S at all. But, of course, that's just my personal opinion.

So there you have it! The Phanteks Enthoo Pro M, is the winner!


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dorito Bandit*
> 
> Or, want a much better looking case? Go with the Enthoo Pro M.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The Entho Pro M is a hell of a lot better looking case! The Define S looks like a small refrigerator to me. I don't like the front of the Define S at all. But, of course, that's just my personal opinion.
> 
> So there you have it! The Phanteks Enthoo Pro M, is the winner!


agreed on that. time for fractal to shake up the Define look a bit.


----------



## bigaza2151

Im thinking about completely removing the hdd tower in my enthoo pro and maybe using double sided tape to keep the drives on the case floor? I have 3 full size hdd and one sdd.

It gets hot as hell in sumner in sydney and i really dont like the way the hdd bay blocks intake. Advice plz?


----------



## NullPointer

Hey guys! So after doing a ****load of research I've come to realize that the phanteks line for cases is just at the top. I've been pretty deadset on either getting the Enthoo pro or luxe. Thing is, I noticed that both cases have small side vents at the front that are not filtered by the front filter. Has this been an issue for anyone? Ideally I would love a 100% filtered case just because dust tends to get everywhere and Id like to not deal with it. Anyways, I found out about that new case phanteks is releasing, the Evolv atx which is sexy as **** and seems to be fully dust proof. Do you guys think I should wait for that or scratch my itch and just get myself the pro and finish my build?


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NullPointer*
> 
> Hey guys! So after doing a ****load of research I've come to realize that the phanteks line for cases is just at the top. I've been pretty deadset on either getting the Enthoo pro or luxe. Thing is, I noticed that both cases have small side vents at the front that are not filtered by the front filter. Has this been an issue for anyone? Ideally I would love a 100% filtered case just because dust tends to get everywhere and Id like to not deal with it. Anyways, I found out about that new case phanteks is releasing, the Evolv atx which is sexy as **** and seems to be fully dust proof. Do you guys think I should wait for that or scratch my itch and just get myself the pro and finish my build?


the Luxe doen't have any vents that bypass the front filter. the evolv ATX is quite sexy so that might be the way to go.


----------



## OGBeandip

On the Primo in that radiator mount for the back side panel, is it possible to just mount 2 120mm fans instead of a radiator?


----------



## By-Tor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OGBeandip*
> 
> On the Primo in that radiator mount for the back side panel, is it possible to just mount 2 120mm fans instead of a radiator?


Yes you can mount 2 140mm or 2 120mm fans to the side panel, but can only mount 2 120mm fans to the rad/fan mount plate that comes in the parts box.


----------



## OGBeandip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *By-Tor*
> 
> Yes you can mount 2 140mm or 2 120mm fans to the side panel, but can only mount 2 120mm fans to the rad/fan mount plate that comes in the parts box.


Great, thanks.


----------



## Sludacris

Another delay on the Evolv ATX:

"We apologize for the inconvenience. It appears that the Evolv ATX in Anthracite Grey will not be ready during our first shipment. We need to delay the arrival of this case to ensure a product deserving the Phanteks name. We at Phanteks take pride in offering an outstanding product at low prices. At this time our only options are to cancel your order and refund your payment or you can choose to change your order to the black version. Please let us know at your convenience.

Phanteks"

I really do not appreciate having waited since the Computex "announcement/release" (June 2nd), then ordering within hours of pre-order availability stating end of July shipment (June 25th), then getting the revised ship date of August 17th (July 17th), and now 2 weeks later I have to either change colors or wait even longer?! I could have ordered a CasesLabs case and even with their 5-6 week process and had it by now.









I sleeved my power supply cables to match the anthracite grey and purchased radiators specifically to fit this case. This is ridiculous. I better not see any retailers with this case available before I receive my shipment and this case better be be dynamite supreme.


----------



## Dimestore55

I just finished a build with my first Phanteks case. I had never heard of these before but I stumbled across one while searching the net for ideas and liked it. I am very pleased with the build quality of this unit considering the price point.





CASE: Enthoo Evolv ITX
MB: Asrock H97M
CPU: i5-4460
GPU: GEFORCE GTX 970
SSD: Kingston Hyper X Savage 240GB
RAM: Kingston Hyper X Savage 16GB
PSU: Rosewill HIVE 550w (semi -modular)
COOLING: Corsair H100i GTX Extreme Performance
STORAGE: WD Blue 1TB, WD Green 2TB
LIGHTING: Darkside 7" Red LED strip


----------



## OGBeandip

That looks great!

Really efficient usage of space as well.


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dimestore55*
> 
> I just finished a build with my first Phanteks case. I had never heard of these before but I stumbled across one while searching the net for ideas and liked it. I am very pleased with the build quality of this unit considering the price point.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> CASE: Enthoo Evolv ITX
> MB: Asrock H97M
> CPU: i5-4460
> GPU: GEFORCE GTX 970
> SSD: Kingston Hyper X Savage 240GB
> RAM: Kingston Hyper X Savage 16GB
> PSU: Rosewill HIVE 550w (semi -modular)
> COOLING: Corsair H100i GTX Extreme Performance
> STORAGE: WD Blue 1TB, WD Green 2TB
> LIGHTING: Darkside 7" Red LED strip


I have a very similar build, yours looks good. I love your SSD mount, did you velcro it?


----------



## Dimestore55

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OGBeandip*
> 
> That looks great!
> 
> Really efficient usage of space as well.


Thanks. That case was a bit tight in some areas but overall was a pleasure to work with. I added a fan control and a switch for the LED's to the back panel and there was plenty of room to locate them between the PSU and side cover.


----------



## Dimestore55

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rfarmer*
> 
> I have a very similar build, yours looks good. I love your SSD mount, did you velcro it?


No, I used an L-shaped pump bracket that I had left over form another build and some other 4 armed bracket to attach the SSD to it.


----------



## GhettoFied

Just got an email from Phanteks that the anthracite evolv atx is now undeterminitley delayed. The black one I believe is still due out on the 17th.


----------



## Thunderclez

Soooo... it's HERE!!! Got my Evolv!



Moving around it every thing feels solid. No question, this is likely the most well constructed case I have ever owned personally. There are some things that I believe could be better. The front audio\usb placement is somewhat annoying. The window could be considerably bigger, I will not be using the HDD plate, and the case itself is considerably large. Larger than I anticipated even when ordering it lol. It's nearly the size of the s340.

It almost has me thinking of modding. I have zero need for that 5.25 bay. Could you some how remove that and reconfigure the rear to accept a normal ATX board? Hmm... Meh I dunno... if you did that, then re-positioned the front audio\USB ports that would be win. It would go from a large mATX\ITX enclosure to a compact but enthusiast mid-tower lol.

It's just a stunning case though. Unfortunately I don't know when I am going to build in it just yet. so we will see.


----------



## colinmcr

Here in the UK we are expecting both versions of the ATX today and some lucky ones can expect them at their doors on Saturday. With the majority out for delivery on the 3rd.


----------



## zerophase

Now, that I have all of my radiators inside the enthoo Primo, I can't get the top of the case up to screw the Phanteks panel back on. Any suggestions for popping the top?


----------



## zerophase

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zerophase*
> 
> Now, that I have all of my radiators inside the enthoo Primo, I can't get the top of the case up to screw the Phanteks panel back on. Any suggestions for popping the top?


Just unscrewed some fans so I could pop the panel back in. Man, EK's screws are hard to work with. Speaking of screws I'm trying to commission a screw manufacturer to make screws like Koolance's that fit UNC 6-32 threads. Anyone interested in getting in if they'll make them?


----------



## dikkiedirk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Thunderclez*
> 
> Soooo... it's HERE!!! Got my Evolv!
> 
> 
> 
> Moving around it every thing feels solid. No question, this is likely the most well constructed case I have ever owned personally. There are some things that I believe could be better. The front audio\usb placement is somewhat annoying. The window could be considerably bigger, I will not be using the HDD plate, and the case itself is considerably large. Larger than I anticipated even when ordering it lol. It's nearly the size of the s340.
> 
> It almost has me thinking of modding. I have zero need for that 5.25 bay. Could you some how remove that and reconfigure the rear to accept a normal ATX board? Hmm... Meh I dunno... if you did that, then re-positioned the front audio\USB ports that would be win. It would go from a large mATX\ITX enclosure to a compact but enthusiast mid-tower lol.
> 
> It's just a stunning case though. Unfortunately I don't know when I am going to build in it just yet. so we will see.


Luck you, I think. What is the problem with Phanteks? Here in the Netherlands all the case I opted for are out of stock, delayed, whatever. And why is the Evolv ATX so much more expense than the Pro M? Is it build quality? I was told by Phanteks that it could be until end of August that the Pro M will be available over here.


----------



## OGBeandip

Does anyone have a picture of a 45mm thick radiator installed in the top of a Primo? With fans mounted on the bottom if possible.

Im thinking of doing it but Im not sure how empty it will look up there.

I want to run a 420mm radiator and from what I can see the maximum supported thickness for it is 45mm.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dikkiedirk*
> 
> Luck you, I think. What is the problem with Phanteks? Here in the Netherlands all the case I opted for are out of stock, delayed, whatever. And why is the Evolv ATX so much more expense than the Pro M? Is it build quality? I was told by Phanteks that it could be until end of August that the Pro M will be available over here.


The Evolve ATX and Pro M use the same chassis. The reasons for the cost difference that I can see right from the start are the all-aluminum panels on the Evolv, as well as the Evolv including more fans, the HDD brackets, pump bracket, an additional drop and lock as well as support for 3.5" drop and lock. There may be more accessory differences, that was just off the top of my head.


----------



## emsj86

The fact that the evolv atx uses the same chasis as the pro m is very disappointing. The reason is jt would have been my next case and build but it's just too small slightly bigger would have been perfect. Having the option to 360 front and top with a nice tube res between front rad and Gpus would have been great sadly it's just too small unless your running one gpu than it's not too bad


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> The fact that the evolv atx uses the same chasis as the pro m is very disappointing. The reason is jt would have been my next case and build but it's just too small slightly bigger would have been perfect. Having the option to 360 front and top with a nice tube res between front rad and Gpus would have been great sadly it's just too small unless your running one gpu than it's not too bad


I'd like an Evolv XL. something the size of the Luxe with room to mount an EATX motherboard, 70mm tube res (photon 170), the hard drive brackets and an aditional ~60mm at the front to mount a radiator without having to lose the hard drives completely. something that can hold 480/360 rad together at the same time. I'd pay $250 for that in a hurry.


----------



## ComputAni

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PureBlackFire*
> 
> I'd like an Evolv XL. something the size of the Luxe with room to mount an EATX motherboard, 70mm tube res (photon 170), the hard drive brackets and an aditional ~60mm at the front to mount a radiator without having to lose the hard drives completely. something that can hold 480/360 rad together at the same time. I'd pay $250 for that in a hurry.


So kind of like a scaled down version of the Primo, but with still very exceptional rad support without having to compromise too much. I like this alot, simply because the Primo is a fantastic case, but sometimes too large for some peoples' taste, yet the Luxe is a great size, so this combination would be really appealing.


----------



## PureBlackFire

yea, just a scaled up Evolv ATX with some minor improvements (9 pci-e slots, don't have to give up 3.5" drives for mounting a 360 rad in front) . would be perfect.


----------



## emsj86

If they made it slightly taller enough to for a 360 and 360 up top which would be too much more in height than slightly extend the length and boom you have my money. But sadly that's not the case and I ended up buying a caselabs sm8. If anyone is interested in my side panel for my pro with the custom bezeled windows in willingness to get rid of it. It fits luxe as well.


----------



## retro123

Enthoo primo here, gonna get a a 360 monsta pp in bottom and a ek 480 pp in the roof, two 140mm as intake in front. Best way to put airflow? Should I blow out air of the chassie with both pp rads or should the bottom monsta rad be configured as intake? Would be nice to have positive airflow to fight dust.. What do you recommend with my config?
980ti SLI, 4790k.


----------



## ComputAni

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *retro123*
> 
> Enthoo primo here, gonna get a a 380 monsta pp in bottom and a ek 480 pp in the roof, two 140mm as intake in front. Best way to put airflow? Should I blow out air of the chassie with both pp rads or should the bottom monsta rad be configured as intake? Would be nice to have positive airflow to fight dust.. What do you recommend with my config?
> 980ti SLI, 4790k.


Can you clarify what you mean by a 380 monsta pp down bottom? I'm gonna interprate it as 480mm monsta in the bottom. I have a similar setup to you and what I do is have the two front fans as intake, the bottom rad fans as intake and the top and back fans on exhaust, that way air flows from front/bottom to top. Hot air naturally rises, too.


----------



## retro123

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ComputAni*
> 
> Can you clarify what you mean by a 380 monsta pp down bottom? I'm gonna interprate it as 480mm monsta in the bottom. I have a similar setup to you and what I do is have the two front fans as intake, the bottom rad fans as intake and the top and back fans on exhaust, that way air flows from front/bottom to top. Hot air naturally rises, too.


Sorry my bad, 360 not 380







, ok so you suggest to have the bottom "monsta" rad as intake? That makes sense.


----------



## ComputAni

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *retro123*
> 
> Sorry 360 not 380
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , ok so you suggest to have the bottom "monsta" rad as intake? That makes sense.


Yeah, is the bottom rad gonna be in Push/pull? I'm doing push/pull with that fan config and temps are very good, relative to ambient temp. I haven't tried the other way to see if the temps change, but intuitively and practically, it does the job.

Good luck









Edit: Read your original post about it being in P/P. good stuff.


----------



## retro123

Yes, gonna be push pull. Thanks for the help. Should help me fighting dust as well as temps.


----------



## Thunderclez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dikkiedirk*
> 
> Luck you, I think. What is the problem with Phanteks? Here in the Netherlands all the case I opted for are out of stock, delayed, whatever. And why is the Evolv ATX so much more expense than the Pro M? Is it build quality? I was told by Phanteks that it could be until end of August that the Pro M will be available over here.


Dang sorry to hear that!


----------



## PureBlackFire

fun times with my loop. I changed two of my fittings earklier today and left the pump running for 5 hours. no leaks. turn it off and some water starts leaking out the bottom rim of the res. now everything is connected and the pc is powered on, no leaks. think I'll leave the tissue in there for another few hours.


----------



## zerophase

Looks like I needneed 2 EK xtops to finish my build. I just barely can't reach the fan mounting brackets with the dual top. But, I came up with this.




Think it's safe to mount?


----------



## Dorito Bandit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bigaza2151*
> 
> Im thinking about completely removing the hdd tower in my enthoo pro and maybe using double sided tape to keep the drives on the case floor? I have 3 full size hdd and one sdd.
> 
> It gets hot as hell in sumner in sydney and i really dont like the way the hdd bay blocks intake. Advice plz?


If it gets very hot where you live, you might not want to mount a mechanical hard drive with tape anywhere in your case. The heat may actually loosen the stickiness of the tape. An SSD is light and would probably stick fine, but a heavy mechanical drive may come loose if it gets too hot in there. I would keep the mechanical drives in the drive cage or find a way to screw them to the bottom of your case. Use your imagination, I'm sure you can come up with something that would work.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NullPointer*
> 
> Hey guys! So after doing a ****load of research I've come to realize that the phanteks line for cases is just at the top. I've been pretty deadset on either getting the Enthoo pro or luxe. Thing is, I noticed that both cases have small side vents at the front that are not filtered by the front filter. Has this been an issue for anyone? Ideally I would love a 100% filtered case just because dust tends to get everywhere and Id like to not deal with it. Anyways, I found out about that new case phanteks is releasing, the Evolv atx which is sexy as **** and seems to be fully dust proof. Do you guys think I should wait for that or scratch my itch and just get myself the pro and finish my build?


Enthoo Pro Front Dust Filter Mod

Here's a dust filter mod I did with my Enthoo Pro.

The front panel piece of the Enthoo Pro has a dust filter, but it ONLY covers the front portion. The small bottom and side vents of the front piece are NOT protected and could easily allow dust to be sucked in from there. My solution to this is to cover them with a thin foam. This type of foam may also be used to cover any other opening in your case that you feel the need to cover.



Here's a look on the inside of the front panel piece showing the foam secured in place over the unprotected vents with tape.



Here's the exact foam I used. http://www.amazon.com/Duck-1285234-Replacement-Conditioner-24-Inch/dp/B002GKC2US I got mine at Walmart. It's cheap, too!









The foam certainly helps, but I still get a little dust in my case from other areas. Dust will find its way through the smallest of cracks!


----------



## Sludacris

Well since I won't be getting the Evolv ATX for a while I will go ahead and post pics of my stand-in Pro. Planning on EK blocks for the 980s and a 360 rad for the front once I actually get the ATX...which is perpetually a month away. The pro is really nice, probably the best case I have owned besides some old lian li cases.


----------



## DrakeFive55

I have an enthoo luxe and I'm wondering how you have your fans setup

I put the 2 140 MM fans that came with the case on the front and totally removed the 200MM. I then put a 140MM corsair AF as exhaust and then 3 120MM fans that I already had on top (2x Corsair AF and 1 x silverstone)

Should I have put the 200MM on top instead of 2 x 120MM

Or would 2 X 120MM fans be better than 1 x 200MM


----------



## Reaper28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PureBlackFire*
> 
> fun times with my loop. I changed two of my fittings earklier today and left the pump running for 5 hours. no leaks. turn it off and some water starts leaking out the bottom rim of the res. now everything is connected and the pc is powered on, no leaks. think I'll leave the tissue in there for another few hours.


Is that 90' on the res a Monsoon fitting?


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Reaper28*
> 
> Is that 90' on the res a Monsoon fitting?


it's a monsoon attached to a 90° EK adapter.


----------



## Reaper28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PureBlackFire*
> 
> it's a monsoon attached to a 90° EK adapter.


Ah ok, wasn't sure. I know Monsoon's angled fittings are usually pretty noticeable


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PureBlackFire*
> 
> fun times with my loop. I changed two of my fittings earklier today and left the pump running for 5 hours. no leaks. turn it off and some water starts leaking out the bottom rim of the res. now everything is connected and the pc is powered on, no leaks. think I'll leave the tissue in there for another few hours.


yeah I've done something similar with the bleed screw on the h220x...since I have the replacement window I'm not too worried about it leaking from bleed screw area and when I get a bubble I'll remove it and syringe some water in there...I forgot to put it back in once and all was fine until I turned the pc off...it literally sprayed the back of my monitor...luckily though it was mounted in the front of the case by then


----------



## Said Nobody

So the Ethoo pro cant do push/pull on a h100i at the top but can be done at the front right? Does that mean the fan at the front has to come off?


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Said Nobody*
> 
> So the Ethoo pro cant do push/pull on a h100i at the top but can be done at the front right? Does that mean the fan at the front has to come off?


Yes the fan is a 300mm fan and it would have to come off. Have you thought about getting the luxe not much more and better quality and can fit push pull up top. Also push pull on a h100i will give you maybe a degree better not worth the noise factor


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Yes the fan is a 300mm fan and it would have to come off. Have you thought about getting the luxe not much more and better quality and can fit push pull up top. Also push pull on a h100i will give you maybe a degree better not worth the noise factor


200mm







but otherwise yeah luxe is better option if you want p/p...and I'm thinking for p/p in the front you would need drive bays to go as well..


----------



## emsj86

Lol yea that was a fat finger typo there. Yea the drivers even with one set of fans would have to go but there out ssd mounts on back and you can get a optical bay adapter on the cheap to mount hdd in optical area


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Lol yea that was a fat finger typo there. Yea the drivers even with one set of fans would have to go but there out ssd mounts on back and you can get a optical bay adapter on the cheap to mount hdd in optical area


I've got mine almost finished for the pump...here's to hoping it doesn't crack when I drill holes for mounting bracket I want it in the top so it's against the filter to fill from the res itself and fill the loop with the mcp50x...less air I hope...trying to get a continuous fill no cycling on and off


----------



## NullPointer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sludacris*
> 
> Well since I won't be getting the Evolv ATX for a while I will go ahead and post pics of my stand-in Pro. Planning on EK blocks for the 980s and a 360 rad for the front once I actually get the ATX...which is perpetually a month away. The pro is really nice, probably the best case I have owned besides some old lian li cases.


By stand in, you mean you got the pro in the meantime, or u already had it? Looks nice dude. The shipping issues with the Evolv ATX are pissing me off. Been waiting on it to be available so i can order it and my graphics card to complete my build. Honestly im considering just grabbing the pro at this point.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dorito Bandit*
> 
> If it gets very hot where you live, you might not want to mount a mechanical hard drive with tape anywhere in your case. The heat may actually loosen the stickiness of the tape. An SSD is light and would probably stick fine, but a heavy mechanical drive may come loose if it gets too hot in there. I would keep the mechanical drives in the drive cage or find a way to screw them to the bottom of your case. Use your imagination, I'm sure you can come up with something that would work.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Enthoo Pro Front Dust Filter Mod
> 
> Here's a dust filter mod I did with my Enthoo Pro.
> 
> The front panel piece of the Enthoo Pro has a dust filter, but it ONLY covers the front portion. The small bottom and side vents of the front piece are NOT protected and could easily allow dust to be sucked in from there. My solution to this is to cover them with a thin foam. This type of foam may also be used to cover any other opening in your case that you feel the need to cover.
> 
> 
> 
> Here's a look on the inside of the front panel piece showing the foam secured in place over the unprotected vents with tape.
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the exact foam I used. http://www.amazon.com/Duck-1285234-Replacement-Conditioner-24-Inch/dp/B002GKC2US I got mine at Walmart. It's cheap, too!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The foam certainly helps, but I still get a little dust in my case from other areas. Dust will find its way through the smallest of cracks!


thanks dudes, if i grab the Pro i'll just end up doing this mod to it. The foam looks a bit thick though id probably use something thinner for less air restriction.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Said Nobody*
> 
> So the Ethoo pro cant do push/pull on a h100i at the top but can be done at the front right? Does that mean the fan at the front has to come off?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Yes the fan is a 300mm fan and it would have to come off. Have you thought about getting the luxe not much more and better quality and can fit push pull up top. Also push pull on a h100i will give you maybe a degree better not worth the noise factor


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> 200mm
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> but otherwise yeah luxe is better option if you want p/p...and I'm thinking for p/p in the front you would need drive bays to go as well..


My first thought was "why would you want to do push/pull on an H100i?". As mentioned, it may give you a degree better, but the H100i already sounds like a vacuum cleaner, why add even more noise to it?

Changing cases, adding noise and losing drive bays sounds like way too much to sacrifice for a single degree.


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Said Nobody*
> 
> So the Ethoo pro cant do push/pull on a h100i at the top but can be done at the front right? Does that mean the fan at the front has to come off?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> My first thought was "why would you want to do push/pull on an H100i?". As mentioned, it may give you a degree better, but the H100i already sounds like a vacuum cleaner, why add even more noise to it?
> 
> Changing cases, adding noise and losing drive bays sounds like way too much to sacrifice for a single degree.


I have a h105 and the stock fans were incredibly loud, especially over 50%. I replaced them with some Prolimatech. Better airflow and much, much quiter.


----------



## Sludacris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NullPointer*
> 
> By stand in, you mean you got the pro in the meantime, or u already had it? Looks nice dude. The shipping issues with the Evolv ATX are pissing me off. Been waiting on it to be available so i can order it and my graphics card to complete my build. Honestly im considering just grabbing the pro at this point.


Thanks. I bought it cheap from a friend who was switching to the R5 because he wanted silence. I wanted to see if Phanteks was as good as everyone says before dropping that amount of cash on the evolv (based on their "cheap" case, I would assume the luxe and primo are pretty sweet). But, I promised to sell the pro to another friend when I got my evolv. I don't really have anything to complain about with the pro other than I prefer aluminum cases and I didn't want a full tower...if i were going to keep the pro I would change out the 200mm fan for 140s.

Speaking of which, does anyone have any idea when the EK vardar 140s will be available?


----------



## Dorito Bandit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NullPointer*
> 
> By stand in, you mean you got the pro in the meantime, or u already had it? Looks nice dude. The shipping issues with the Evolv ATX are pissing me off. Been waiting on it to be available so i can order it and my graphics card to complete my build. Honestly im considering just grabbing the pro at this point.
> thanks dudes, if i grab the Pro i'll just end up doing this mod to it. The foam looks a bit thick though id probably use something thinner for less air restriction.


The foam isn't that thick at all, and it's very light weight. You could also use a fine mesh material of some kind. Like a window replacement screen or piece of mesh fabric. Just search Google for mesh netting/fabric and you'll get an idea of what I am talking about.


----------



## Said Nobody

On the enthoo pro their a fan controller? Can you adjust the fan speeds?

Do you guys reccomend getting the window side panel or plain? Is their anything I need to know before buying?


----------



## Sludacris

You just run a pwm connector, included with the case, from a pwm header on the motherboard, usually cpu_fan1, to the cpu_fan pwm header on the fan hub (on the right in this picture):


Then you can use your bios or software to control the fan speed curve associated with cpu_fan1. The fan hub uses the pwm signal to change voltages rather than sending pwm signals to other fans, which is good if using 3 pin fans, but some people don't like it because they would prefer a true pwm fan controller.

The window thing is personal preference, but note that it is tinted and if you really want to show off the innards you will need some sort of lighting in the case.
Also, because I got my pro second-hand I cannot tell if some of the spider web scratches are from phanteks or previous owner. They aren't noticeable (except to me) but they are present. I don't know of a manufactured case that doesn't have this issue, unless maybe you spend $$$ on a lian li or in win tempered glass case.


----------



## zerophase

Just managed to scratch my case, on the Phanteks panel. Anyone know how to cover up a scratch on steel?


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zerophase*
> 
> Just managed to scratch my case, on the Phanteks panel. Anyone know how to cover up a scratch on steel?


Sorry to hear that.









Some black markers do a pretty good job of hiding scratches and chips .. but some have a bluish tint. If scratch is not through the paint a little wax or even a little oil will sometimes bring the dark black back.


----------



## zerophase

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Sorry to hear that.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some black markers do a pretty good job of hiding scratches and chips .. but some have a bluish tint. If scratch is not through the paint a little wax or even a little oil will sometimes bring the dark black back.


Hmm, I can see a silver mark through it. Guessing wax or oil won't work. Any particular wax you'd suggest?

I know of a primer that works for aluminum, and should cover it off. I'm pretty sure the top and front inserts are aluminum, but believe the panel is steel. Any similar paints for steel?


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zerophase*
> 
> Hmm, I can see a silver mark through it. Guessing wax or oil won't work. Any particular wax you'd suggest?
> 
> I know of a primer that works for aluminum, and should cover it off. I'm pretty sure the top and front inserts are aluminum, but believe the panel is steel. Any similar paints for steel?


You can use a wax touch up pencil made for furniture. Buff it lightly until the wax only remains in the scratch.

I, personally, prefer using a black ultra-fine tip Sharpie. If you have the steady hand it makes the scratch essentially disappear. http://www.sharpie.com/en-US/ultra-fine-point-permanent-marker-sp-00067--1


----------



## doyll

With silver showing you will need to use black touch-up wax or black Sharpie as Ciarlatano said.


----------



## DyndaS

Time for phanteks case


----------



## GhettoFied

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DyndaS*
> 
> Time for phanteks case


How did you get that!?? I had my preorder from Phanteks cancelled because they told me Aug 17th!! Trying to get one of these is ridiculous...


----------



## doyll

Piracy on the high seas, Matey!


----------



## DyndaS

Connections









btw.
Does anyone know how can i force fun hub to set lower rpm?

I set on my motherboard 12,5% and i have ~720 rpm on fans.


----------



## Thunderclez

Dangit... well never mind getting to build a new system right now.

Just got a bill for a hospital visit by my daughter and have to return the case. Ok.... back to the drawing board /facepalm

Best built case I have ever seen and I am returning it.....


----------



## Sludacris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DyndaS*
> 
> Time for phanteks case
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Title


I'm assuming UK? Overclockers UK already has them in stock. The U.S. is having issues getting cases. Thanks Obama.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GhettoFied*
> 
> How did you get that!?? I had my preorder from Phanteks cancelled because they told me Aug 17th!! Trying to get one of these is ridiculous...


Did you decide to change to black or are you going to wait on the anthracite gray? I'm still kind of debating since I had to upgrade my power supply and haven't sleeved it yet.


----------



## GhettoFied

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sludacris*
> 
> [/spoiler]
> I'm assuming UK? Overclockers UK already has them in stock. The U.S. is having issues getting cases. Thanks Obama.
> Did you decide to change to black or are you going to wait on the anthracite gray? I'm still kind of debating since I had to upgrade my power supply and haven't sleeved it yet.


I've cancelled my order with them. I have asked them about the black one and did not hear back from them. Pretty disappointing. I don't see how it can be hard to get a shipment of cases from the UK to US.


----------



## GhettoFied

I just got in touch with OCUK about shipping to Atlanta, will let you guys know what they say.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

So I decided since pc needs a deep cleaning I was gonna try some led color changes but...I'm cheap so I decided sharpie wins... I tried different colors but I think I like the blue and green for hd...red was too pinkish...Orange looked yellow..


----------



## maskymus

Just wanted to share this RGB illumination implementation for Phanteks Enthoo Primo owners/modders to prove everything's possible:


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *maskymus*
> 
> Just wanted to share this RGB illumination implementation for Phanteks Enthoo Primo owners/modders to prove everything's possible:


Nice!








How did you install the 5050 led strip?


----------



## maskymus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Nice!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> How did you install the 5050 led strip?


All depends on the led strip PCB and led placement.
The mounting is the same as the original led placement except for cutting down a diffuser a little bit.
5050 leds specs and placement on the led strip are just right to fit in the chamber with diffuser still in place.
You can refer to overclock.net link in video description (or check the build log) to have more idea how it's installed.


----------



## DyndaS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sludacris*
> 
> [/spoiler]
> I'm assuming UK? Overclockers UK already has them in stock. The U.S. is having issues getting cases. Thanks Obama.


Not rally









I just bought it from someone week ago who could have it faster then others for somethink like like ~80$









$$$ why are you so high....


----------



## GhettoFied

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DyndaS*
> 
> Not rally
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I just bought it from someone week ago who could have it faster then others for somethink like like ~80$
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> $$$ why are you so high....


Would said person be able to sell some more?


----------



## Sludacris

Bah! Well hurry up and post pics and stuff. What parts are you going to be putting in it?


----------



## DreadfulDave

I'm wondering if 37-38° (Idle) and 67-70° (Full-Load) are typical temps for an i7 5820k @4.5GHz which is cooled by a single 360mm radiator with 30mm thickness...

my setup:



Pump: D5 @Level 4.
Radiator: Alphacool ST30
Top-Fan: eLoop B12-2
Rear: Phantek SP140
Front: Arctic F12 Rev2

I've noticed that I can drop the temps by about 2-3° if I raise the RPM of the Rear-Intake, but that fan sadly makes scratchy engine noises when it is spinning at anything above 600 RPM, that's why I am currently searching for an alternative. I need a 140mm fan that can create a high airflow at around 30-35Db.


----------



## doyll

I took a look at your link, but still don''t understand how you fit the 5050 strip in.
Captain CurrySauce on The Mod Zoo shows stock LED strip ass 5.5mm wide and 5050 are 10mm wide.
 
http://themodzoo.com/forum/index.php/topic/883-enthoo-primo-front-led-color-change/


----------



## Qpoe

Just finished my build in the Evolv ATX. Was planning on using another 240x60mm rad in the front but it wouldn't fit, it fit in the roof but looked way to big. I'm going to add a thin rad to front if the triple can't handle the load.


----------



## maskymus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> I took a look at your link, but still don''t understand how you fit the 5050 strip in.
> Captain CurrySauce on The Mod Zoo shows stock LED strip ass 5.5mm wide and 5050 are 10mm wide.


Common 5050 strips are 10mm in width, however, I found one that is 6.2mm wide (5mm for led and 1.2mm extra). Diodes fit inside the channel and those extra mm overlap on the side (tried to mark it on the photo) but the upper lid can still be closed.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







Will try to do another photo of the front part as it's easier to disassemble.


----------



## Sludacris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qpoe*
> 
> Just finished my build in the Evolv ATX. Was planning on using another 240x60mm rad in the front but it wouldn't fit, it fit in the roof but looked way to big. I'm going to add a thin rad to front if the triple can't handle the load.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: spoiler


Looks good! I'm so jelly.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *maskymus*
> 
> Common 5050 strips are 10mm in width, however, I found one that is 6.2mm wide (5mm for led and 1.2mm extra). Diodes fit inside the channel and those extra mm overlap on the side (tried to mark it on the photo) but the upper lid can still be closed.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Will try to do another photo of the front part as it's easier to disassemble.


Okay, so what is and where do we find the LED strip you used? Can you give us the model / part number and/or any other specific data about what it is?


----------



## maskymus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Okay, so what is and where do we find the LED strip you used? Can you give us the model / part number and/or any other specific data about what it is?


I thought I posted the link to led seller in youtube video description but I'll repost it here as well: http://ledstrip.en.alibaba.com/product/60013185523-209382058/dc12v_ip20_smd_5050_led_strip_rgb_8mm_6mm.html

Brand: Xinelam; Model: RX-RGB-568
P.S. You need to contact seller to have the needed length of the strip.


Spoiler: led reel


----------



## DapperDan795

Looks way good man. I can't imagine that rad not cooling those components properly though. Keep us posted.


----------



## OGBeandip

After seeing that RGB LED mod im curious about something. I havent worked with LEDs before and im about to do a non RGB mod to my primo. How do I know where to cut the LED strip?


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OGBeandip*
> 
> After seeing that RGB LED mod im curious about something. I havent worked with LEDs before and im about to do a non RGB mod to my primo. How do I know where to cut the LED strip?


No need to cut anything. Just unplug them








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *maskymus*
> 
> I thought I posted the link to led seller in youtube video description but I'll repost it here as well: http://ledstrip.en.alibaba.com/product/60013185523-209382058/dc12v_ip20_smd_5050_led_strip_rgb_8mm_6mm.html
> 
> Brand: Xinelam; Model: RX-RGB-568
> P.S. You need to contact seller to have the needed length of the strip.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: led reel


Thanks!.


----------



## OGBeandip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> No need to cut anything. Just unplug them
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks!.


But what if the LED strip I bought is too long?


----------



## maskymus

*OGBeandip*,
You can cut the strip in the wire contact placement (usually you have the cutting place every 3 leds).


Spoiler: strip cut examples


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OGBeandip*
> 
> But what if the LED strip I bought is too long?


Sorry, thought you wanted to cut the ones in case to turn them off.









Here's a tutorial on cutting and attaching leads.
http://www.ecolocityled.com/category/led_tutorials_quickconnect


----------



## OGBeandip

O
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Sorry, thought you wanted to cut the ones in case to turn them off.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's a tutorial on cutting and attaching leads.
> http://www.ecolocityled.com/category/led_tutorials_quickconnect


Ok thanks. Thats what I thought from looking at them but wanted to check.

Also the ones in the case are soldered in. They cant just be unplugged. Theyre soldered to the wire that goes to the case. So its just 1 small cut where the contacts are.


----------



## OGBeandip

Tha
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *maskymus*
> 
> *OGBeandip*,
> You can cut the strip in the wire contact placement (usually you have the cutting place every 3 leds).
> 
> 
> Spoiler: strip cut examples


Thanks, I figured thats what the double contact was for.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OGBeandip*
> 
> O
> Ok thanks. Thats what I thought from looking at them but wanted to check.
> 
> Also the ones in the case are soldered in. They cant just be unplugged. Theyre soldered to the wire that goes to the case. So its just 1 small cut where the contacts are.


The strips in the case have 2-pin plugs / sockets on them. I can't remember exactly what they were, but I think they were the same as 2-pin fan. I had to dig up the info a few years back. If I can find it I'll post it here.


----------



## doyll

Yeah, they are 2-pin fan plugs.
http://www.overclock.net/t/1418637/official-case-phanteks-club-enthoo-primo-primo-se-luxe-pro-mini-xl-evolv-evolv-itx-evolv-atx-lovers-owners/2540_20#post_21610548

Like these

http://www.watercoolinguk.co.uk/cat/2-Pin-Fan-Connectors_145.html


----------



## OGBeandip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Yeah, they are 2-pin fan plugs.
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1418637/official-case-phanteks-club-enthoo-primo-primo-se-luxe-pro-mini-xl-evolv-evolv-itx-evolv-atx-lovers-owners/2540_20#post_21610548




Yeah I saw thats how they connect up. But wouldnt the easiest way to connect a new LED be to cut the wires here and solder the connections to the new strip?


----------



## maskymus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OGBeandip*
> 
> wouldnt the easiest way to connect a new LED be to cut the wires here and solder the connections to the new strip?


The easiest way would be to unsolder wires on led side from old strip and solder the connectors to the new one.


----------



## GhettoFied

DHL 3 day is 68 pounds for anyone interested in importing a case. This is the shipped price for the Evolv ATX to the east coast.


----------



## Dorito Bandit

Bitfenix Alchemy 2.0 Magnetic LED Strips

For those interested in LEDs, have a look at these. Link I have no experience with them, just thought it was neat in the way they are applied to your case.


----------



## Faster_is_better

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *maskymus*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Okay, so what is and where do we find the LED strip you used? Can you give us the model / part number and/or any other specific data about what it is?
> 
> 
> 
> I thought I posted the link to led seller in youtube video description but I'll repost it here as well: http://ledstrip.en.alibaba.com/product/60013185523-209382058/dc12v_ip20_smd_5050_led_strip_rgb_8mm_6mm.html
> 
> Brand: Xinelam; Model: RX-RGB-568
> P.S. You need to contact seller to have the needed length of the strip.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: led reel
Click to expand...

Awesome work once again, this needs to be stickied somewhere so it doesn't get buried. Maybe add these specs to your build log page too?


----------



## maskymus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Faster_is_better*
> 
> Awesome work once again, this needs to be stickied somewhere so it doesn't get buried. Maybe add these specs to your build log page too?


Added all information to my build log led installation post as well as updated with some "strip test placement" section photos for *doyll*.


----------



## Faster_is_better

I took about 20 pictures of measurements on the Primo case, should I post them here in a spoiler or on another thread? Just a bunch of misc measurements, should cover several questions that pop up in here from time to time.


----------



## doyll

Either way is fine. If you post them elsewhere please post a link here and I will put a link in the first post.


----------



## Trestles126

Anyone get the phanteks luxe specific led strip to work off a standard 3pin end? Anyway I can make it universal for a different case we I just have it sitting around


----------



## zerophase

So, I found this wax to fill in the scratch. Think it's the right shade of black?

http://www.walmart.com/ip/16888946?wmlspartner=wlpa&adid=22222222228019300251&wl0=&wl1=g&wl2=m&wl3=40840034312&wl4=&wl5=pla&wl6=78653299352&veh=sem


----------



## RnRollie

Turtle is not the "best" brand outtthere, but it will do









I'ld start with an out-of-view inside panel, just to see the effect, before doing the rest. You probably gonna end up doing your whole case


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zerophase*
> 
> So, I found this wax to fill in the scratch. Think it's the right shade of black?
> 
> http://www.walmart.com/ip/16888946?wmlspartner=wlpa&adid=22222222228019300251&wl0=&wl1=g&wl2=m&wl3=40840034312&wl4=&wl5=pla&wl6=78653299352&veh=sem


Probably not
Try using a black crayon


----------



## bigaza2151

im currently using the enthoo pro case and i have a fan screwed onto my drive cage blowing onto my gpu, quick question guys

with this i should still be able to fit most larger gtx 980 cards? if my math is correct the normal clearance for gpu in the case is 347mm and the average 120mm fan is about 25mm thick? [leaving 322mm room?] the galax hof card is about 308mm but do they factor in those heatpipes that come off the end? just double checking before i buy. thanks guys


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zerophase*
> 
> So, I found this wax to fill in the scratch. Think it's the right shade of black?
> 
> http://www.walmart.com/ip/16888946?wmlspartner=wlpa&adid=22222222228019300251&wl0=&wl1=g&wl2=m&wl3=40840034312&wl4=&wl5=pla&wl6=78653299352&veh=sem


No, that will make a total mess. You want a wax pencil like this - http://www.homedepot.com/p/Minwax-9-Blend-Fil-Pencil-11009/203040875


----------



## panozy

Hi guys. I do not want to intervene with the current conversation, but i want to ask for help. 1) If i remove the the wall from an enthoo pro (theone the the phanteks logo oxn the bottom) will i make case less sturdy? If not, will i be able to put 2 240 rads, one on the bottom and one on front? 2) with a 420 on top, can i fit a 120 on back? 3)is it possible to have a dual loop in the enthoo pro? Thank you jn afvance for your responses!


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *panozy*
> 
> Hi guys. I do not want to intervene with the current conversation, but i want to ask for help. 1) If i remove the the wall from an enthoo pro (theone the the phanteks logo oxn the bottom) will i make case less sturdy? If not, will i be able to put 2 240 rads, one on the bottom and one on front? 2) with a 420 on top, can i fit a 120 on back? 3)is it possible to have a dual loop in the enthoo pro? Thank you jn afvance for your responses!


It will be less sturdy but will still work. Can always use something to secure the frame to help keep it sturdy. 240 bottom and front doesn't work just barely off even with thin rads. Now what I was planning to do and you could do is if you remove that panel just move the front 240 rad up to the top 120 mount. It will hd there just fine and if needed a bracket to hold the top part of the rad wouldn't be needed per say but can easly be made. And I think a 420 will block a 120 on the rear. Here is mine with 360 up too and 240 below. Duel loop is possible but to be honest would look bad just to much going on, but could have res on back by pci slots and one by Gpus or one in drive bays


----------



## thekingbeyond

I am about to purchase a Luxe, wanted the white version but I am struggling to find one actually in stock in the UK


----------



## panozy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> It will be less sturdy but will still work. Can always use something to secure the frame to help keep it sturdy. 240 bottom and front doesn't work just barely off even with thin rads. Now what I was planning to do and you could do is if you remove that panel just move the front 240 rad up to the top 120 mount. It will hd there just fine and if needed a bracket to hold the top part of the rad wouldn't be needed per say but can easly be made. And I think a 420 will block a 120 on the rear. Here is mine with 360 up too and 240 below. Duel loop is possible but to be honest would look bad just to much going on, but could have res on back by pci slots and one by Gpus or one in drive bays


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> It will be less sturdy but will still work. Can always use something to secure the frame to help keep it sturdy. 240 bottom and front doesn't work just barely off even with thin rads. Now what I was planning to do and you could do is if you remove that panel just move the front 240 rad up to the top 120 mount. It will hd there just fine and if needed a bracket to hold the top part of the rad wouldn't be needed per say but can easly be made. And I think a 420 will block a 120 on the rear. Here is mine with 360 up too and 240 below. Duel loop is possible but to be honest would look bad just to much going on, but could have res on back by pci slots and one by Gpus or one in drive bays


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> It will be less sturdy but will still work. Can always use something to secure the frame to help keep it sturdy. 240 bottom and front doesn't work just barely off even with thin rads. Now what I was planning to do and you could do is if you remove that panel just move the front 240 rad up to the top 120 mount. It will hd there just fine and if needed a bracket to hold the top part of the rad wouldn't be needed per say but can easly be made. And I think a 420 will block a 120 on the rear. Here is mine with 360 up too and 240 below. Duel loop is possible but to be honest would look bad just to much going on, but could have res on back by pci slots and one by Gpus or one in drive bays


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> It will be less sturdy but will still work. Can always use something to secure the frame to help keep it sturdy. 240 bottom and front doesn't work just barely off even with thin rads. Now what I was planning to do and you could do is if you remove that panel just move the front 240 rad up to the top 120 mount. It will hd there just fine and if needed a bracket to hold the top part of the rad wouldn't be needed per say but can easly be made. And I think a 420 will block a 120 on the rear. Here is mine with 360 up too and 240 below. Duel loop is possible but to be honest would look bad just to much going on, but could have res on back by pci slots and one by Gpus or one in drive bays


Thank you very much for your response! Do you run 2×780sc? How are your temps on the cpu and on the gpus??


----------



## Talo

Hey All,

I completed my new build last night. Enthoo Luxe was a great case to work with.

Few things though:

I bought an extra 140mm fan and wanted to have the 200mm up top for exhaust and 2 140mm fans in front for intake. I was not able to move the 200mm to the top though. The screws were just too small for the holes to go in. I would have needed to get a drill and make them larger. I tried smaller screws, but they wouldn't hold the 200mm fan. Ended up using the 200mm for intake and now have 3 140mm for exhaust.

Anyone else mount the 200mm up top and did you need to make the holes larger, or did I miss something?

In addition, the PMW hub doesn't seem to be working. I only have 1 4 pin connector on my motherboard, which I used for the CPU. I figured I would just use the SATA power for the PMW hub and have all the case fans going at full speed. I plugged it in, but none of the case fans are spinning. I have a fan plugged into the 1st fan slot, so not sure what else might be the issue here. Does the 4 pin need to be plugged in somewhere for this to work at all, or does something else need to be enabled?

Lastly, only the LED lights in the front, not the side light up. I assume there is a plug or connection missing somewhere, but haven't been able to figure it out yet.

All in all, great case and someone with a newer motherboard might not have had the case fan issue I'm having.

Any help with what is going on the the fan hub would be appreciated.

I'll post some pics of the build later.

Thanks


----------



## emsj86

I do run two gtx 780 sc but there bios hacked and running at 1200mhz at 1.21v can do more but no real reason to yet and i7 4790k at 4.8 1.3. Temps for cpu on occt 69 hottest core and Gpus never been above 49 on any benchmark. Usually there at tops 40 gaming. They really stay cool with not much rad space. I'm switching my build though to a caselabs for more rads but the pro hands down best 100 dollar case ever


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Talo*
> 
> Hey All,
> 
> I completed my new build last night. Enthoo Luxe was a great case to work with.
> 
> Few things though:
> 
> I bought an extra 140mm fan and wanted to have the 200mm up top for exhaust and 2 140mm fans in front for intake. I was not able to move the 200mm to the top though. The screws were just too small for the holes to go in. I would have needed to get a drill and make them larger. I tried smaller screws, but they wouldn't hold the 200mm fan. Ended up using the 200mm for intake and now have 3 140mm for exhaust.
> 
> Anyone else mount the 200mm up top and did you need to make the holes larger, or did I miss something?
> 
> In addition, the PMW hub doesn't seem to be working. I only have 1 4 pin connector on my motherboard, which I used for the CPU. I figured I would just use the SATA power for the PMW hub and have all the case fans going at full speed. I plugged it in, but none of the case fans are spinning. I have a fan plugged into the 1st fan slot, so not sure what else might be the issue here. Does the 4 pin need to be plugged in somewhere for this to work at all, or does something else need to be enabled?
> 
> Lastly, only the LED lights in the front, not the side light up. I assume there is a plug or connection missing somewhere, but haven't been able to figure it out yet.
> 
> All in all, great case and someone with a newer motherboard might not have had the case fan issue I'm having.
> 
> Any help with what is going on the the fan hub would be appreciated.
> 
> I'll post some pics of the build later.
> 
> Thanks


A look in the manual (I believe on page 8) at the contents of the tool kit will tell you which screws are used to mount the fan up top.

Try plugging your CPU fan into the PWM hub, and plugging the hub's four pin to the CPU fan header just to see if that works. It may require a PWM signal when the SATA is used to function. Not sure at all on that, just a thought.

If you remove the front panel, you will see that there is a connector that connects the LEDs for the top, This may have come unplugged while you were building your system.


----------



## Dorito Bandit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Talo*
> 
> Hey All,
> 
> I completed my new build last night. Enthoo Luxe was a great case to work with.
> 
> Few things though:
> 
> I bought an extra 140mm fan and wanted to have the 200mm up top for exhaust and 2 140mm fans in front for intake. I was not able to move the 200mm to the top though. The screws were just too small for the holes to go in. I would have needed to get a drill and make them larger. I tried smaller screws, but they wouldn't hold the 200mm fan. Ended up using the 200mm for intake and now have 3 140mm for exhaust.
> 
> Anyone else mount the 200mm up top and did you need to make the holes larger, or did I miss something?
> 
> In addition, the PMW hub doesn't seem to be working. I only have 1 4 pin connector on my motherboard, which I used for the CPU. I figured I would just use the SATA power for the PMW hub and have all the case fans going at full speed. I plugged it in, but none of the case fans are spinning. I have a fan plugged into the 1st fan slot, so not sure what else might be the issue here. Does the 4 pin need to be plugged in somewhere for this to work at all, or does something else need to be enabled?
> 
> Lastly, only the LED lights in the front, not the side light up. I assume there is a plug or connection missing somewhere, but haven't been able to figure it out yet.
> 
> All in all, great case and someone with a newer motherboard might not have had the case fan issue I'm having.
> 
> Any help with what is going on the the fan hub would be appreciated.
> 
> I'll post some pics of the build later.
> 
> Thanks


You already have the screws to mount the 200mm fan. You do not need to drill the holes any bigger. I was confused myself about how to mount mine at top, but it can be done and you do have the screws to do this with in the included accessory box.


----------



## Talo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> A look in the manual (I believe on page 8) at the contents of the tool kit will tell you which screws are used to mount the fan up top.
> 
> Try plugging your CPU fan into the PWM hub, and plugging the hub's four pin to the CPU fan header just to see if that works. It may require a PWM signal when the SATA is used to function. Not sure at all on that, just a thought.
> 
> If you remove the front panel, you will see that there is a connector that connects the LEDs for the top, This may have come unplugged while you were building your system.


Thanks! Must have missed that the screws were in the box.

About the PMW hub - I thought about plugging the CPU into there, but it is 4 pins and all the headers I can plug into on the hub are 3 pin. Can I plug a 4 pin into a 3 pin? I also don't think the CPU fan plug will the hub. I guess if I had a 3 pin splitter I could connect both to the CPU slot. Might need to see where I can get one.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Speaking of that stupid huge 200mm front fan from my Pro&#8230;anyone want it? PM me.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dorito Bandit*
> 
> The foam certainly helps, but I still get a little dust in my case from other areas. Dust will find its way through the smallest of cracks!


So that explains the (predominant) source of the dust inside. Thanks; I should have realized this on my own.


----------



## Darius B

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Faster_is_better*
> 
> I took about 20 pictures of measurements on the Primo case, should I post them here in a spoiler or on another thread? Just a bunch of misc measurements, should cover several questions that pop up in here from time to time.


Do you have measurements on the length of the 5.25 drive cage? For my planned build I'm thinking of using some 3.5 to 5.25 adaptors for my HDDs so I can keep the bottom clear for water-cooling purposes. I want to make sure that doesn't interfere with the tube reservoir.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Talo*
> 
> Thanks! Must have missed that the screws were in the box.
> 
> About the PMW hub - I thought about plugging the CPU into there, but it is 4 pins and all the headers I can plug into on the hub are 3 pin. Can I plug a 4 pin into a 3 pin? I also don't think the CPU fan plug will the hub. I guess if I had a 3 pin splitter I could connect both to the CPU slot. Might need to see where I can get one.


Yes, you can plug it into the PWM hub.


----------



## zerophase

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> No, that will make a total mess. You want a wax pencil like this - http://www.homedepot.com/p/Minwax-9-Blend-Fil-Pencil-11009/203040875


Thanks, went with something like that from the arts and crafts aisle.

Hit a bit of an issue with installing my bleed port. The EK right angle fitting was way too high, so I picked up one of bitspower's low profile right angles, but that's still a little too high, and makes contact with the fan filter clip. Think I can shave the clip down a bit without breaking it?


----------



## Thunderclez

Ahem! Got some help from the family, bills are there but we are managing... I get to keep my white evolv.....

Game On!









So much drama with wife and three kids /facepalm


----------



## Dorito Bandit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Thunderclez*
> 
> Ahem! Got some help from the family, bills are there but we are managing... I get to keep my white evolv.....
> 
> Game On!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So much drama with wife and three kids /facepalm


Glad to hear you're keeping the case! Life can be difficult at times, just keep your head up and stay positive for your family.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> Speaking of that stupid huge 200mm front fan from my Pro&#8230;anyone want it? PM me.
> So that explains the (predominant) source of the dust inside. Thanks; I should have realized this on my own.


Yeah, have a good look around at your case and you'll see all the tiny places where dust can easily get inside. It's the same for most every case out there.

How come you do not like the 200mm fan?


----------



## panozy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> I do run two gtx 780 sc but there bios hacked and running at 1200mhz at 1.21v can do more but no real reason to yet and i7 4790k at 4.8 1.3. Temps for cpu on occt 69 hottest core and Gpus never been above 49 on any benchmark. Usually there at tops 40 gaming. They really stay cool with not much rad space. I'm switching my build though to a caselabs for more rads but the pro hands down best 100 dollar case ever


Thatwas my original plan, to water cool me 4790k and the 970 (soon 2×970) in the sma8, but it costs 600$, and with shipment it goes all the way up to 800$, so it leaves me with not much money. I like your gpu temps, i also plan to bios hack mine, but the cpu is too hot for me, even overclocked. I might get the sma8, and water cool onle the cpu for start and when i upgrade my gpus in a couple of years, i will wc them.


----------



## ppkstat

Hello people, quick question!

I am considering the entoo primo for my next build. I have a d5 to mount with the ek pump top (https://shop.ekwb.com/ek-xtop-d5-acetal-original-csq) along with the decoupling mechanism (https://shop.ekwb.com/ek-uni-holder-d5-v3) I want to place the pump where the pump bracket is located on the case, minus the bracket (meaning i will take out the bracket and screw the decoupling mechanism directly at the bottom of the chassis. My main concern her is space. The pump bracket is 75mm and the top is 80mm. While it MIGHT fit I fear that the fit will be so close that vibrations from the pump might transfer to the back of the mobo tray or the side panel and produce noise.

Does anybody has experience with such placement? Maybe @Unicr0nhunter?


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ppkstat*
> 
> Hello people, quick question!
> 
> I am considering the entoo primo for my next build. I have a d5 to mount with the ek pump top (https://shop.ekwb.com/ek-xtop-d5-acetal-original-csq) along with the decoupling mechanism (https://shop.ekwb.com/ek-uni-holder-d5-v3) I want to place the pump where the pump bracket is located on the case, minus the bracket (meaning i will take out the bracket and screw the decoupling mechanism directly at the bottom of the chassis. My main concern her is space. The pump bracket is 75mm and the top is 80mm. While it MIGHT fit I fear that the fit will be so close that vibrations from the pump might transfer to the back of the mobo tray or the side panel and produce noise.
> 
> Does anybody has experience with such placement? Maybe @Unicr0nhunter?


I did the D5 w/ EK top there with no issues using the Phanteks pump mount. I can't imagine the EK mount will give you any trouble.


----------



## ppkstat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> I did the D5 w/ EK top there with no issues using the Phanteks pump mount. I can't imagine the EK mount will give you any trouble.


It is not the mount I am afraid of ,it's the top and specifically its width. So you say you actually mounted one of these tops at this specific location and the top was not touching the mmobo tray or the side panel?


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ppkstat*
> 
> It is not the mount I am afraid of ,it's the top and specifically its width. So you say you actually mounted one of these tops at this specific location and the top was not touching the mmobo tray or the side panel?


That is correct. It's fairly close, but fits without touching anything.


----------



## ppkstat

Excellent, thank you!


----------



## Talo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> A look in the manual (I believe on page 8) at the contents of the tool kit will tell you which screws are used to mount the fan up top.
> 
> Try plugging your CPU fan into the PWM hub, and plugging the hub's four pin to the CPU fan header just to see if that works. It may require a PWM signal when the SATA is used to function. Not sure at all on that, just a thought.
> 
> If you remove the front panel, you will see that there is a connector that connects the LEDs for the top, This may have come unplugged while you were building your system.


Yes, that is indeed what happened. I saw there was a small white plug that wasn't connected to anything. I figured at the time maybe it was an extension in case I bought those LED strips, since nothing seemed to be able to plug into it. Turns out that had become unplugged from the top of the case when I took it off to install the fans. Plugged it back in and all the LEDs are now working.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dorito Bandit*
> 
> You already have the screws to mount the 200mm fan. You do not need to drill the holes any bigger. I was confused myself about how to mount mine at top, but it can be done and you do have the screws to do this with in the included accessory box.


Thanks - I did this yesterday. I now have the 2 140mm in front as intake and 1 140 in the rear, and the 200mm at the top for exhaust, as I originally wanted.

It took me a while to figure out how to get all the fans working.

It turns out that the SATA power connector for the PMW is optional and won't work on its own. The PMW hub needs to be plugged into a 4 pin connector to turn on at all. My CPU cooler has two fans and came with a 4 pin Y splitter, but the cables were are unable to make it to the PMW hub. At first I tried connecting the "pull" CPU fan and the PMW hub to the y splitter and plugged that into the CPU fan header. I took the "push" fan and connected it to a 3 pin fan header, cha_fan2 (it wouldn't fit in cha_fan1 as there is a capacitor next to it and the 4 pin wouldn't fit). Booted up the system and all the fans except for the "push" one worked. I shut it down and this time connected the push fan and the PMW header to the Y cable, and connected the "pull" fan to cha_fan3, which is towards the rear of the case. This ended up working, so I now have full fans and LEDs.

Not sure why the cha_fan2 didn't work. I suspect that maybe since it is in the front of the case, it assumes there needs to be cha_fan1 plugged in first, but I'm not really sure. In any case, cha_fan3 was clearly for the exhaust fan and plugged by 4 pin CPU fan into it worked, so I am good to go.

New system is running extremely well (except for some stability issues with my new RAM which I'm trying to work out).

Here is my old case, an Antec 900 I hadn't opened in years and could accurately be described as "The Dustpocalype"



And the new Phanteks - free of dust and looking good (picture taken before I moved the fans around)



Definitely very happy I ended up with buying the new case instead of trying to continue to work with the Antec.


----------



## Faster_is_better

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darius B*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Faster_is_better*
> 
> I took about 20 pictures of measurements on the Primo case, should I post them here in a spoiler or on another thread? Just a bunch of misc measurements, should cover several questions that pop up in here from time to time.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Do you have measurements on the length of the 5.25 drive cage? For my planned build I'm thinking of using some 3.5 to 5.25 adaptors for my HDDs so I can keep the bottom clear for water-cooling purposes. I want to make sure that doesn't interfere with the tube reservoir.
Click to expand...

Check out picture 3 under General Measurements

@doyll

*Phanteks Primo Measurement Resource*

Taking request for measurements to add for a while, as my case is torn apart right now and easy to picture


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Faster_is_better*
> 
> @doyll
> 
> *Phanteks Primo Measurement Resource*
> 
> Taking request for measurements to add for a while, as my case is torn apart right now and easy to picture


Thanks! Added to opening post!


----------



## JMattes

Hey Guys!

Long time NZXT owner looking to possibly join the Phantek family! I am looking to redo my tower set up and was recommended to check out the Enthoo Pro out.
Basically my signature below is correct on parts. I may be looking to redo the water loop and buy new parts as its a bit old and I think some of the parts are starting to go and I used dye at one point and would rather not risk build up, etc..







I also may pick up the Skylake CPU.. It will be a CPU only loop as I change out GPUs too frequently to lose money on GPU water blocks.

Overall I am hoping for better cable management from a new case, room for probably a 360 rad for a CPU loop, probably going to keep the D5 Pump and Top and need room for (2) SSDs, a HDD and Drive Bay. Any recommendations on layouts, rad placements, new fitting.. anything insight from you guys who have been knee deep in putting everything together and went "oh **** if only I ordered this part it would of went so much easier".

Any limitation in the case? Certain rad thickness that needs to be bought.. Any modding that needs to be done to make things work. I would like to avoid modding as its a pain.. So where can the rad go without any problems (360).

Here is a photo of what my computer looked like (minus the 240 rad as it has since broke). I think I will be replacing the custom res as the epoxy is starting to crack..










Any insight or help is much appreciated!


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JMattes*
> 
> Hey Guys!
> 
> Long time NZXT owner looking to possibly join the Phantek family! I am looking to redo my tower set up and was recommended to check out the Enthoo Pro out.
> Basically my signature below is correct on parts. I may be looking to redo the water loop and buy new parts as its a bit old and I think some of the parts are starting to go and I used dye at one point and would rather not risk build up, etc..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also may pick up the Skylake CPU.. It will be a CPU only loop as I change out GPUs too frequently to lose money on GPU water blocks.
> 
> Overall I am hoping for better cable management from a new case, room for probably a 360 rad for a CPU loop, probably going to keep the D5 Pump and Top and need room for (2) SSDs, a HDD and Drive Bay. Any recommendations on layouts, rad placements, new fitting.. anything insight from you guys who have been knee deep in putting everything together and went "oh **** if only I ordered this part it would of went so much easier".
> 
> Any limitation in the case? Certain rad thickness that needs to be bought.. Any modding that needs to be done to make things work. I would like to avoid modding as its a pain.. So where can the rad go without any problems (360).
> 
> Here is a photo of what my computer looked like (minus the 240 rad as it has since broke). I think I will be replacing the custom res as the epoxy is starting to crack..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Any insight or help is much appreciated!


You would probably want to be looking at the Luxe, not the Pro. More room for the rad up top, LEDs and more accessories and options for liquid cooling. I came out of the Phantom 630 into the Luxe and couldn't be happier.


----------



## doyll

What /\ /\ /\ /\ said. I went from Define R2 to Primo and back to Luxe. Luxe is a good size .. big enough for lots of components yet small enough to fit where Primo won't (like under desk on castor base).


----------



## JMattes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> What /\ /\ /\ /\ said. I went from Define R2 to Primo and back to Luxe. Luxe is a good size .. big enough for lots of components yet small enough to fit where Primo won't (like under desk on castor base).


Other than the PSU Cover it reminds me a lot of the NZXT 810 I already have.. what would be the key differences?









there is a ssd holder on the back side which is nice, but I think there is only 1 and the velcro ties are a very nice touch... hmm I looked a few build logs and I still think it looks similar to the NZXT 810.


----------



## GhettoFied

@DyndaS how are you liking the Evolv ATX? I just built a system in a H440 for a friend and that case is now ruled out lol. The airflow if too bad. How does the Evolv handle getting heat out with stock fan configuration or do you think it needs more fans? Sorry for all the questions


----------



## Thunderclez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dorito Bandit*
> 
> Glad to hear you're keeping the case! Life can be difficult at times, just keep your head up and stay positive for your family.


Thank you and yes family first always I have a 5 y/o and 2 (3 in sept) twins so my hands are full =), I am going to be rolling with my laptop for a while which is a sager and nice, so I'll be getting a part here or there for this thing. Real issue, is I am not seeing any of the mATX Z170 boards that really impress me, gene looks good but $230 is really steep. I can go x99 for that money. The gigabyte G1 looks promising but no details on price just yet.


----------



## Dorito Bandit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Thunderclez*
> 
> Thank you and yes family first always I have a 5 y/o and 2 (3 in sept) twins so my hands are full =), I am going to be rolling with my laptop for a while which is a sager and nice, so I'll be getting a part here or there for this thing. Real issue, is I am not seeing any of the mATX Z170 boards that really impress me, gene looks good but $230 is really steep. I can go x99 for that money. The gigabyte G1 looks promising but no details on price just yet.


Yeah, I doubt I'll ever own a motherboard costing over $200, myself. Sure, they may be nice and have some great features, but I'd much rather spend that extra bit of money elsewhere on my system, like a larger SSD or something. But that's just me.

Best of luck with everything.


----------



## Gohan_Nightwing

I seem to have lost one of the rubber grommets that goes around the PSU cover thumbscrews. Any idea where I might be able to get another/more?

Thanks!


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gohan_Nightwing*
> 
> I seem to have lost one of the rubber grommets that goes around the PSU cover thumbscrews. Any idea where I might be able to get another/more?
> 
> Thanks!


Take it to a hardware store and match up an o-ring. Buy a bunch of them since the factory ones tend to shred.


----------



## Gohan_Nightwing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Take it to a hardware store and match up an o-ring. Buy a bunch of them since the factory ones tend to shred.


Thanks for the tip!


----------



## Danny42

Hi

what diameter res could i fit with a pair of evga titan x's (266.7mm length)

also what height res with a monsta in push pull and xt45 in pull on top

Cheers


----------



## Sludacris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Danny42*
> 
> Hi
> 
> what diameter res could i fit with a pair of evga titan x's (266.7mm length)
> 
> also what height res with a monsta in push pull and xt45 in pull on top
> 
> Cheers


What case?


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sludacris*
> 
> What case?


Would have to be an EVOLV ITX, right?


----------



## OGBeandip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sludacris*
> 
> What case?


Im assuming the primo for a build like that.


----------



## dkevox

Assuming a primo I would say a 250mm reservoir with a diameter at most 2.5"

Here you can see how my 250mm liquid fusion reservoir fits. I do have the "side port adapter" which makes it 1" longer. But the monsta will eat up that space. Those are 980ti's so exactly the same size as titan X and there isn't much clearance to the radiator.

Also take note that I had to cut the "reservoir bracket" to get the bottom graphics card to fit. So depending on your motherboard you might want to do that before you install everything in the system.

*https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3706/20191373718_b8e1a8fc07_o.jpg <--- Huge version so you can zoom in and see clearance*


----------



## JMattes

Whats the main differences between the Primo and the Luxe other than like $100

They both seem to be roughly the same sizes if I am reading the correct specs.. I like the PSU cover of the Luxe..


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JMattes*
> 
> Whats the main differences between the Primo and the Luxe other than like $100
> 
> They both seem to be roughly the same sizes if I am reading the correct specs.. I like the PSU cover of the Luxe..


the primo is much larger than the luxe in both width and height...also the primo has support for 420 and 480 rads...some people have crammed a 420 in the luxe but it was less than ideal...also side mounted psu means cleaner cable management and more rad space...


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JMattes*
> 
> Whats the main differences between the Primo and the Luxe other than like $100
> 
> They both seem to be roughly the same sizes if I am reading the correct specs.. I like the PSU cover of the Luxe..


Having owned both, I can assure you that they are not even close in size. I believe you may actually be able to install a Luxe inside a Primo.....









I may actually have a pic of them side by side, if I can find it I'll post it.


----------



## JMattes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Having owned both, I can assure you that they are not even close in size. I believe you may actually be able to install a Luxe inside a Primo.....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I may actually have a pic of them side by side, if I can find it I'll post it.


*Enthoo Luxe*
Dimensions (H x W x D)
22.04" x 9.25" x 21.65"
Weight 35.50 lbs

*Enthoo Primo*
Dimensions (H x W x D)
25.59" x 9.84" x 23.62"
Weight 39.46 lbs.

4" higher, 1 inch wider, 2 inches deeper
I guess it would fit inside but I wouldn't go so far to say not even close..

I have to say the Primo is pretty cool and pretty tempting.. I just don't know if I really wanted bigger than the NZXT Switch 810.. I think I wanted smaller..


----------



## Danny42

sorry, that would help, Primo


----------



## Danny42

thanks for the responses guys, sorry for not including the case
here's my build if you guys wouldn't mind having a quick look, this will be my first water build, hopefully i've thought of everything

always wanted a tube res but was going with a bay res as had planned to get 2 980ti classy's and with no blocks available yet wouldn't have been able to fit a tube, but her good self today changed that by telling me to get 2 titan's







I'm sure i'll be paying for this sometime

so need to drop a pump and get a top and switch out the bay res for tube

CPU - 5820k
Motherboard - ASUS ROG Rampage V Extreme/U3.1
RAM - G.Skill RipJaws 4 32GB DDR4-2666 Red
OS Storage - Samsung SSD SM951 512GB
Data Storage - WD Black 4TB
Graphics - EVGA GeForce GTX Titan X SuperClocked X2
Case - Phanteks Enthoo Primo SE Black/Red
Monitor - Acer Predator XB270HUbprz, 27"
psu - EVGA SuperNOVA P2 1000 1000W ATX 2.3

Cooling
Case Fans 140 - Corsair Air Series AF140 Quiet Edition X1
Rad Fans 120 - Corsair Air Series SP120 PWM Quiet Edition High Static Pressure, 2-er Pack X2
Res - Koolance RP-452X2 Dual 5.25" Reservoir
Pump - XSPC D5 PWM without Front Cover x2
Top Rad - Alphacool NexXxoS XT45 420mm
Bottom Rad - alpha nexxxos monsta 480
Tubing - EK Water Blocks EK-Tube ZMT 16/10mm 300cm Matt Black
Extra Tubing - primochill primo flex lrt adv 16/10
CPU Block - EK Water Blocks EK-FB Kit ASUS R5E Monoblock
GPU Block - EK Acetal Nickel
GPU Backplate - EK Black
Fittings - Monsoon 6er Pack 16/10mm Red X3
Monsoon Adapter 90 16/10mm X 4
Monsoon Adapter 45 16/10mm X 4
Red Monsoon Caps for back of 90 and 45 fittings
EK extender m/f 20mm X 6
EK extender m/f 50mm X 4
EK extender m/m 6mm X3
Valve - Koolance VLV-BL1X2
Plug - EK-CSQ Plug G1/4 - Black Nickel x4

Esthetics
Lighting - Phobya LED-Flexlight HighDensity 60cm RGB x3
Phobya LED-Flexlight RGB Controller With IR-Remote
SLI Bridge - ASUS 3 way Bridge
Bradded cables - BitFenix ATX 24pin Extension Cable Red/Black - 30cm
Nanoxia 30cm 8 pin Red X4
Sata cables Red X2
Nanoxia 4-pin PWM Y-cable 30cm Red X8

so would Z-Multi 250mm Water Tank its 270mm with caps??

dkevox your build looks sweet, how do you find the monoblock??

Cheers


----------



## kilo7echo

I have offically defected from the Corsiar 600t club to Join you all, with the purchase of my Enthoo Luxe case.

I went for a totally new skylake build and some of the goodies already begun arriving

Other specs include

6700k Skylake
Asus z170 Deluxe
16gigs corsair platinum ddr4 3000mhz
1tb samsung evo pro ssd
corsair 850hxi
EVGA 980ti 6b
Corsair k70 keyboard
Corsair hydo h100i

and 3 new asus 24inch monitors.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Danny42*
> 
> thanks for the responses guys, sorry for not including the case
> here's my build if you guys wouldn't mind having a quick look, this will be my first water build, hopefully i've thought of everything
> 
> always wanted a tube res but was going with a bay res as had planned to get 2 980ti classy's and with no blocks available yet wouldn't have been able to fit a tube, but her good self today changed that by telling me to get 2 titan's
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm sure i'll be paying for this sometime
> 
> so need to drop a pump and get a top and switch out the bay res for tube
> 
> CPU - 5820k
> Motherboard - ASUS ROG Rampage V Extreme/U3.1
> RAM - G.Skill RipJaws 4 32GB DDR4-2666 Red
> OS Storage - Samsung SSD SM951 512GB
> Data Storage - WD Black 4TB
> Graphics - EVGA GeForce GTX Titan X SuperClocked X2
> Case - Phanteks Enthoo Primo SE Black/Red
> Monitor - Acer Predator XB270HUbprz, 27"
> psu - EVGA SuperNOVA P2 1000 1000W ATX 2.3
> 
> Cooling
> Case Fans 140 - Corsair Air Series AF140 Quiet Edition X1
> Rad Fans 120 - Corsair Air Series SP120 PWM Quiet Edition High Static Pressure, 2-er Pack X2
> Res - Koolance RP-452X2 Dual 5.25" Reservoir
> Pump - XSPC D5 PWM without Front Cover x2
> Top Rad - Alphacool NexXxoS XT45 420mm
> Bottom Rad - alpha nexxxos monsta 480
> Tubing - EK Water Blocks EK-Tube ZMT 16/10mm 300cm Matt Black
> Extra Tubing - primochill primo flex lrt adv 16/10
> CPU Block - EK Water Blocks EK-FB Kit ASUS R5E Monoblock
> GPU Block - EK Acetal Nickel
> GPU Backplate - EK Black
> Fittings - Monsoon 6er Pack 16/10mm Red X3
> Monsoon Adapter 90 16/10mm X 4
> Monsoon Adapter 45 16/10mm X 4
> Red Monsoon Caps for back of 90 and 45 fittings
> EK extender m/f 20mm X 6
> EK extender m/f 50mm X 4
> EK extender m/m 6mm X3
> Valve - Koolance VLV-BL1X2
> Plug - EK-CSQ Plug G1/4 - Black Nickel x4
> 
> Esthetics
> Lighting - Phobya LED-Flexlight HighDensity 60cm RGB x3
> Phobya LED-Flexlight RGB Controller With IR-Remote
> SLI Bridge - ASUS 3 way Bridge
> Bradded cables - BitFenix ATX 24pin Extension Cable Red/Black - 30cm
> Nanoxia 30cm 8 pin Red X4
> Sata cables Red X2
> Nanoxia 4-pin PWM Y-cable 30cm Red X8
> 
> so would Z-Multi 250mm Water Tank its 270mm with caps??
> 
> dkevox your build looks sweet, how do you find the monoblock??
> 
> Cheers


Just running through the components, all are top notch except one - good going. BUT.....but....there always has to be a but....if you are doing a setup with all of those quality components, don't skimp on the fans. The fans included with the case are actually better than what you are looking at replacing them with, so that doesn't make a whole lot of sense. And if you are getting top end rads, put top end rad fans on them (EK, GT, Phanteks MP, etc). Corsair fans are incredibly mediocre all around, and way too loud on rads. It's like perfectly restoring a 1962 Ferrari GTO, and putting Scion TC rims on it. JMHO


----------



## Kreuzer

Hey, do you guys have white or blue color led in front of the case for Phanteks Enthoo Evolv iTX? (from factory). I have the white one but I keep seeing the blue around.


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kilo7echo*
> 
> I have offically defected from the Corsiar 600t club to Join you all, with the purchase of my Enthoo Luxe case.
> 
> I went for a totally new skylake build and some of the goodies already begun arriving
> 
> Other specs include
> 
> 6700k Skylake
> Asus z170 Deluxe
> 16gigs corsair platinum ddr4 3000mhz
> 1tb samsung evo pro ssd
> corsair 850hxi
> EVGA 980ti 6b
> Corsair k70 keyboard
> Corsair hydo h100i
> 
> and 3 new asus 24inch monitors.


I am so jealous, I am waiting for the i5 6600k to be released here in the US. I have one of those monitors, please show pics when you have all 3 setup.


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kreuzer*
> 
> Hey, do you guys have white or blue color led in front of the case for Phanteks Enthoo Evolv iTX? (from factory). I have the white one but I keep seeing the blue around.


Mine is white too.


----------



## dkevox

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zerophase*
> 
> so would Z-Multi 250mm Water Tank its 270mm with caps??
> 
> dkevox your build looks sweet, how do you find the monoblock??
> 
> Cheers


That reservoir should fit fine. It looks from specs that it's smaller than mine.

For your consideration: you are going to have trouble fitting 2 D5 pumps in the back of the case by the PSU (if that was your plan instead of the koolance). I ultimately had to use the space where the hard drive cages mount to fit my dual top D5 pumps. It also made me decide to run 2 loops (though they share the same reservoir). So instead of a 480 on the bottom, I put a 280 xt45, and then a 240 front rad.

Here's a pic from the build of how the pumps all ultimately fit. All mounted using Phantek pump brackets (had to drill holes in the bracket to match the EK pump tops, but that was easy). That is an ax1500i PSU though which is a larger PSU. But I needed that space to route PSU cables:



On the RVE motherboard, it is recommended that you use slots 1 & 5 to mount 2 GPUs. This is because they are the only 2 slots that support PCIe x16 speeds. However, the 5820 "only" has 28 lanes, so this isn't really an issue for you as you can't run both at x16 anyway.

But if you were to still want to follow the recommendation, then your bottom graphics card won't clear the reservoir bracket. You'd have to cut the bracket to make it fit like this:



I did it with a hefty pair of sheers and it's wasn't bad. But just be aware there is a clearance issue there. Here you can see how the card fits with the EK waterblock:



As far as how I liked the EK Monoblock: I think it's awesome. Install was very easy and it's been working great. You get active VRM cooling out of it which is important for trying to push your overclocks on the cpu.

Looks like a killer list of parts you have. So enjoy!


----------



## dkevox

I'm not done with some minor details in my case so have been avoiding posting final specs/details of the build. But I just got 2 more monitors in for a nvidia surround setup I figured some peeps might think is cool.

The ridiculous size of 3 27" monitors is hard to explain. But it's soo cool, this is my first experience with surround/eyefinity.



(I know I need to do some serious cable management)


----------



## kilo7echo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rfarmer*
> 
> I am so jealous, I am waiting for the i5 6600k to be released here in the US. I have one of those monitors, please show pics when you have all 3 setup.


Sure, ill update when i get all the parts for my build in and put it together.

Here is a picture with my old rig. When i put the new machine together ill replace the 2 side ones. I replaced the middle one with the new Asus 24's just to see the difference. The two side old ones were 21.5.


----------



## kilo7echo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dkevox*
> 
> I'm not done with some minor details in my case so have been avoiding posting final specs/details of the build. But I just got 2 more monitors in for a nvidia surround setup I figured some peeps might think is cool.
> 
> The ridiculous size of 3 27" monitors is hard to explain. But it's soo cool, this is my first experience with surround/eyefinity.
> 
> 
> 
> (I know I need to do some serious cable management)


That is a wicked setup. I opted for the asus 24's instead of trhe 27's. Its a big upgrade from my 21.5s but the size of 3 27's all in a row like that i think was way to much for me.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JMattes*
> 
> Whats the main differences between the Primo and the Luxe other than like $100
> 
> They both seem to be roughly the same sizes if I am reading the correct specs.. I like the PSU cover of the Luxe..


I only have images of Enthoo Primo and Enthoo Pro, but Pro and Luxe share the same basic cabinet. The top and front are different
Luxe is 235 mm x 560 mm x 550 mm and Pro is 235 mm x 535 mm x 550 mm while Primo is 250mm x 650mm x 600mm. Primo is 15mm wider, 100mm taller and 50mm deeper.


----------



## dkevox

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kilo7echo*
> 
> Sure, ill update when i get all the parts for my build in and put it together.
> 
> Here is a picture with my old rig. When i put the new machine together ill replace the 2 side ones. I replaced the middle one with the new Asus 24's just to see the difference. The two side old ones were 21.5.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kilo7echo*
> 
> That is a wicked setup. I opted for the asus 24's instead of trhe 27's. Its a big upgrade from my 21.5s but the size of 3 27's all in a row like that i think was way to much for me.


That is probably a much better setup. TBH I only got these because I needed a good 3D capable display for a work project. So these will pull double duty as my gaming monitors, and then they will travel with me to some conferences and such.

If it weren't for the need for highest res 3D image I could get, I'd probably have 3 1080p monitors in surround, or a 34" 21:9 IPS panel as those look awesome as well.

3 27s is arguably overkill. and driving a 7680x1440 setup really is gonna push the limits of my 980ti's. So having to sacrifice image quality on the main screen because of picture that is soo far to the side I can't see it is definitely gonna be a bit frustrating.

Then again I could sit and watch unigine heaven for forever, it's soo damn pretty. Too bad no way to get it to run with bezel correction enabled :/


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dkevox*
> 
> I'm not done with some minor details in my case so have been avoiding posting final specs/details of the build. But I just got 2 more monitors in for a nvidia surround setup I figured some peeps might think is cool.
> 
> The ridiculous size of 3 27" monitors is hard to explain. But it's soo cool, this is my first experience with surround/eyefinity.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (I know I need to do some serious cable management)


That is incredible, are those all ROG Swift monitors?

I have the one 24" Asus 144 Hz and 1 Asus 60 Hz, I would love a 3 monitor setup but I would need a bigger desk.


----------



## kilo7echo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dkevox*
> 
> That is probably a much better setup. TBH I only got these because I needed a good 3D capable display for a work project. So these will pull double duty as my gaming monitors, and then they will travel with me to some conferences and such.
> 
> If it weren't for the need for highest res 3D image I could get, I'd probably have 3 1080p monitors in surround, or a 34" 21:9 IPS panel as those look awesome as well.
> 
> 3 27s is arguably overkill. and driving a 7680x1440 setup really is gonna push the limits of my 980ti's. So having to sacrifice image quality on the main screen because of picture that is soo far to the side I can't see it is definitely gonna be a bit frustrating.
> 
> Then again I could sit and watch unigine heaven for forever, it's soo damn pretty. Too bad no way to get it to run with bezel correction enabled :/


Lol i feel your pain.

I actually had to turn off Nvidia surround on certain games cause it was making me dizzy moving my head back and forth to reach all the corners, i cant image what 27's must be like.

At least when they are on full brightness you can get a pretty sick LCD tan and full dose of vitamin D from those bad boys.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JMattes*
> 
> *Enthoo Luxe*
> Dimensions (H x W x D)
> 22.04" x 9.25" x 21.65"
> Weight 35.50 lbs
> 
> *Enthoo Primo*
> Dimensions (H x W x D)
> 25.59" x 9.84" x 23.62"
> Weight 39.46 lbs.
> 
> 4" higher, 1 inch wider, 2 inches deeper
> I guess it would fit inside but I wouldn't go so far to say not even close..
> 
> I have to say the Primo is pretty cool and pretty tempting.. I just don't know if I really wanted bigger than the NZXT Switch 810.. I think I wanted smaller..


Luxe is 235 mm x 560 mm x 550 mm
Primo is 250mm x 650mm x 600mm (WxHxD)
That makes it 15mm x 90mm x 50mm bigger.
For you Yanks that's 0.59" x 3.54" x 1.97" bigger than Luxe.

Like ciarlatano, I've used both .. starting with black Primo and moving to white Luxe. I loved the Primo but it is very big. Luxe is still a big case but fits many places a Primo finds cramped .. like under a desk.
Less than 5/8" wider (0.59"), 3.65" taller & 1.97" deeper.


----------



## dkevox

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rfarmer*
> 
> That is incredible, are those all ROG Swift monitors?
> 
> I have the one 24" Asus 144 Hz and 1 Asus 60 Hz, I would love a 3 monitor setup but I would need a bigger desk.


Yeah, but again they are in part a "business expense". So I kind of lucked out with that.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kilo7echo*
> 
> Lol i feel your pain.
> 
> I actually had to turn off Nvidia surround on certain games cause it was making me dizzy moving my head back and forth to reach all the corners, i cant image what 27's must be like.
> 
> At least when they are on full brightness you can get a pretty sick LCD tan and full dose of vitamin D from those bad boys.


HAHAHAHA! lol'ing soo hard.


----------



## zerophase

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dkevox*
> 
> That reservoir should fit fine. It looks from specs that it's smaller than mine.
> 
> For your consideration: you are going to have trouble fitting 2 D5 pumps in the back of the case by the PSU (if that was your plan instead of the koolance). I ultimately had to use the space where the hard drive cages mount to fit my dual top D5 pumps. It also made me decide to run 2 loops (though they share the same reservoir). So instead of a 480 on the bottom, I put a 280 xt45, and then a 240 front rad.
> 
> Here's a pic from the build of how the pumps all ultimately fit. All mounted using Phantek pump brackets (had to drill holes in the bracket to match the EK pump tops, but that was easy). That is an ax1500i PSU though which is a larger PSU. But I needed that space to route PSU cables:
> 
> 
> 
> On the RVE motherboard, it is recommended that you use slots 1 & 5 to mount 2 GPUs. This is because they are the only 2 slots that support PCIe x16 speeds. However, the 5820 "only" has 28 lanes, so this isn't really an issue for you as you can't run both at x16 anyway.
> 
> But if you were to still want to follow the recommendation, then your bottom graphics card won't clear the reservoir bracket. You'd have to cut the bracket to make it fit like this:
> 
> 
> 
> I did it with a hefty pair of sheers and it's wasn't bad. But just be aware there is a clearance issue there. Here you can see how the card fits with the EK waterblock:
> 
> 
> 
> As far as how I liked the EK Monoblock: I think it's awesome. Install was very easy and it's been working great. You get active VRM cooling out of it which is important for trying to push your overclocks on the cpu.
> 
> Looks like a killer list of parts you have. So enjoy!


Awesome. I have a 5930k, so I think I'll be fine when I drop two cards in. I ended up mounting my pumps to fans. One is in the front on the bottom radiator fan, and the other is mounted to the side bracket. Should be filling it up later tonight. I'll find out soon, if I pierced a radiator.


----------



## kilo7echo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rfarmer*
> 
> I am so jealous, I am waiting for the i5 6600k to be released here in the US. I have one of those monitors, please show pics when you have all 3 setup.


Here are some pictures with all 3 of the Asus 24's setup. Im still using the old rig cause the 6700k is still not here yet so these are running off my evga 770's.


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kilo7echo*
> 
> Here are some pictures with all 3 of the Asus 24's setup. Im still using the old rig cause the 6700k is still not here yet so these are running off my evga 770's.


That looks so sweet, let us know how the how the surround game play is.


----------



## OGBeandip

Has anyone mounted 2 EK D5s in the back of a primo?

And what D5s will fit on the phanteks pump bracket without modification?

I plan on running 2 loops in the primo im doing for my buildlog and wanted to see if my plan for the pumps works out. I was planning to use the EK D5 Xtops


----------



## dkevox

You can't mount the EK xtop pump to the bracket without drilling a hole through the bracket. This is soo stupid easy though that it shouldn't be a deterent.

If you go back a page you can see a pic I posted of what mounting a couple sets of pumps in the case looks like.

An easy solution (if you want 2 independent loops) would be to have a pump mounted to the bottom of a tube reservoir or something.


----------



## OGBeandip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dkevox*
> 
> You can't mount the EK xtop pump to the bracket without drilling a hole through the bracket. This is soo stupid easy though that it shouldn't be a detergent.
> 
> If you go back a page you can see a pic I posted of what mounting a couple sets of pumps in the case looks like.
> 
> An easy solution (if you want 2 independent loops) would be to have a pump mounted to the bottom of a tube reservoir or something.


Yeah thats true. I may do that on my second loop, the res would be mounted just below the rear fan, its an EK X3 250 reservoir. I think Ive got clearance. I just need to find a way to mount it.


----------



## OGBeandip

Anyone have an LED cover for the top LED strip on the black Primo they would be willing to sell off or let go of?

The term "gently remove" is highly subjective.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OGBeandip*
> 
> Anyone have an LED cover for the top LED strip on the black Primo they would be willing to sell off or let go of?
> 
> The term "gently remove" is highly subjective.


contact phanteks you will probably have more luck


----------



## Danny42

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Just running through the components, all are top notch except one - good going. BUT.....but....there always has to be a but....if you are doing a setup with all of those quality components, don't skimp on the fans. The fans included with the case are actually better than what you are looking at replacing them with, so that doesn't make a whole lot of sense. And if you are getting top end rads, put top end rad fans on them (EK, GT, Phanteks MP, etc). Corsair fans are incredibly mediocre all around, and way too loud on rads. It's like perfectly restoring a 1962 Ferrari GTO, and putting Scion TC rims on it. JMHO


Cheers ciarlatano, point taken

For the 420 rad in top i'll use the 3 PH-F140SP in pull that come with the case

for the 120's my head is starting to melt, there's too many to choice from







, i think this is why I opted for the corsairs way back, they had a red rim that matched, i know, sad.
some that i've seen are

Phanteks PH-F120MP - €14.24 each
EK-Vardar F4-120ER (2200rpm) - €16.95
EK-Vardar F3-120 (1850rpm) - €14.84
EK-Vardar F2-120 (1450rpm) - €14.84

From what i'm reading the lower max rpm the better for silent running when they're turned down, I prefer the look of the 120er, but these might be too loud, any thoughts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dkevox*
> 
> For your consideration: you are going to have trouble fitting 2 D5 pumps in the back of the case by the PSU (if that was your plan instead of the koolance). I ultimately had to use the space where the hard drive cages mount to fit my dual top D5 pumps. It also made me decide to run 2 loops (though they share the same reservoir). So instead of a 480 on the bottom, I put a 280 xt45, and then a 240 front rad.
> 
> Here's a pic from the build of how the pumps all ultimately fit. All mounted using Phantek pump brackets (had to drill holes in the bracket to match the EK pump tops, but that was easy). That is an ax1500i PSU though which is a larger PSU. But I needed that space to route PSU cables:
> 
> On the RVE motherboard, it is recommended that you use slots 1 & 5 to mount 2 GPUs. This is because they are the only 2 slots that support PCIe x16 speeds. However, the 5820 "only" has 28 lanes, so this isn't really an issue for you as you can't run both at x16 anyway.
> 
> But if you were to still want to follow the recommendation, then your bottom graphics card won't clear the reservoir bracket. You'd have to cut the bracket to make it fit like this:
> 
> I did it with a hefty pair of sheers and it's wasn't bad. But just be aware there is a clearance issue there. Here you can see how the card fits with the EK waterblock:


Cheers dkevox, I was planning on dropping 1 of the pumps if going tube res, do you think 1 pump is enough for this setup??

Change of plan on the cpu, now going to 5930k, better future proofing, I'll use a dremel to reshape the res bracket


----------



## doyll

We were talking about the difference in size between Enthoo Primo and Luxe.


And here is Enthoo Primo, Luxe, Pro Evolv ATX, Evolv Micro and Evolv ITX to scale


----------



## dkevox

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Danny42*
> 
> Cheers ciarlatano, point taken
> 
> For the 420 rad in top i'll use the 3 PH-F140SP in pull that come with the case
> 
> for the 120's my head is starting to melt, there's too many to choice from
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , i think this is why I opted for the corsairs way back, they had a red rim that matched, i know, sad.
> some that i've seen are
> 
> Phanteks PH-F120MP - €14.24 each
> EK-Vardar F4-120ER (2200rpm) - €16.95
> EK-Vardar F3-120 (1850rpm) - €14.84
> EK-Vardar F2-120 (1450rpm) - €14.84
> 
> From what i'm reading the lower max rpm the better for silent running when they're turned down, I prefer the look of the 120er, but these might be too loud, any thoughts
> Cheers dkevox, I was planning on dropping 1 of the pumps if going tube res, do you think 1 pump is enough for this setup??
> 
> Change of plan on the cpu, now going to 5930k, better future proofing, I'll use a dremel to reshape the res bracket


I think there is the room to run 2 pumps and 2 circuits. I really like this setup.

Both my circuits share the same reservoir. So it isn't a true "duel loop" configuration. But I used a couple of the koolance "SEN-FM18T10" flow meters that have built in water temperature probes. These probes are the same resistance as the ones that come with the RVE, and so can be plugged straight into the motherboard. Then with the koolance frequency adapter you can also get flow information back in through the motherboard. And my D5 pumps are PWM, so I also get the pump speed info in through the motherboard. (Check the image at the bottom of the page and you can see all this info)

This all allows to program Fan Expert to do the following:
1) Vary the pump for the CPU circuit as a function of cpu temp
2) Vary the pumps for the GPU circuit as a function of the temperature of the GPUs (using the third thermal probe input to measure this because the asus software doesn't have the ability to read the GPU temps)
2) Control the fans on the radiators as a function of the water temperature.

I've been playing a lot with getting it "dialed in" for how I like it. But overall I think it does help keep total system noise to a minimum while also having really good temperature management. Yes the PWM D5 pumps at 100% are a bit noisy, but they only ramp up that high when stressing the system.

Same thing with fans. You do want a low minimum rpm for silent operation, but once you start loading up the system and generating heat, you have quiet a lot of thermal energy you are going to have to get rid of. The fans I'm using are such:

6 x PH-F140XPs for the top rad in push/pull. I did initially install them with the "QSA" adapter which made their rpm range be 300-900 rpm, but after use found out I wanted more cooling under heavy load so I took off the "QSA" adapter and run them now on the full 600-1200 rpm range. Honestly, they aren't that much louder in the full range.

But, I had bought those fans before phantek released the PH-F140MPs. I bought 4 of the PH-F140MPs for my bottom 280mm rad and those things work really well. They are 500-1600 rpm and designed for high static pressure which is what you want for a radiator. They are louder than the F140XPs when cranked up, but I've also observed as much as a 2 degree C difference in the cooling from them. But there are a few comments about that observation:
1) That circuit also has a 240mm radiator on it with a pair of NoiseBolcker eLoops. So those are also contributing to the cooling
2) Those fans all draw air from under the case or the front of the case. The top radiator is blowing "warmer" air from in the case out through the top. So that is going to impact temps as well.
3) The temperature probes from the koolance are damn consistent and seem pretty accurate to me, but they aren't going to be the most accurate probes in the world.

Anyway, both of the EK monoblocks and their GPU blocks are pretty low resistance. I get high flows through each circuit, but the GPU blocks definitely have more restriction to them (they are connected in parallel). So I think you could easily drive the monoblock + both GPU blocks (in parallel, not series) off 1 D5 pump. I just think the plethora of control the RVE provides you makes running dual circuits soo convenient.

I was having a bit of trouble with fan expert 3. But here you can see a screenshot of all the information and control you can get with the RVE and just how I have things controlled: It's pretty cool having the dual circuits imo. And while yes then the GPUs can heat the CPU circuit, the flip side is that you get the full cooling across all the radiators independent of which circuit is adding heat to the system.


----------



## Danny42

cheers dkevox, a wealth of information there, I completely agree with you regarding the "plethora of control", looks like you've increased my costs









At the very least i'm going to get 1 sensor to control the whole loop or would placing a sensor after each block be better for a single loop

With regards to running 2 loops off the one res, I'm assuming you run 2 lines in and 2 out and not splitting lines with y connectors?

Is there any benefit going with the superclocked to the reference gpu's if they're going under water, can save €200 here


----------



## dkevox

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Danny42*
> 
> cheers dkevox, a wealth of information there, I completely agree with you regarding the "plethora of control", looks like you've increased my costs
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At the very least i'm going to get 1 sensor to control the whole loop or would placing a sensor after each block be better for a single loop
> 
> With regards to running 2 loops off the one res, I'm assuming you run 2 lines in and 2 out and not splitting lines with y connectors?
> 
> Is there any benefit going with the superclocked to the reference gpu's if they're going under water, can save €200 here


You really did look at that pic in detail! No benefit of going superclocked with the GPU (that I'm aware of). I only bought those because when I was buying it was the cheapest card available. I had been waiting for a while (like 2 days lol) for the normal card to be available, but finally said screw it and bought the superclocked ones. The only slight possibility of a benefit is that they might use a higher grade silicon chip for the superclocked cards. I highly doubt it, it's normally just luck of the draw. I still haven't played with overclocking the cards, when I do I'll find out how good the chips are in the ones I got.

As to the y connectors: I bought the "side port adapter" for my frozenq reservoir because it has 4 ports on it (stupid adapter delayed my build by over 1 month waiting for frozenq to ship it







). I thought these 4 ports would all lead straight into the reservoir, but they don't. It's kinda like an internal built in y splitter, except more a "T" than a y. So I was thoroughly disappointed when I got it. But I hooked it all up and honestly I don't think it effected the flow much if at all. So you could get away with y-connectors. Just obviously make sure you don't mix the flow direction in the y connectors.

As far as spending more money... I don't think the cost of 1 more pump is gonna make much of an impact on that build







. Sick list of parts though and you'll love it once it's all together.

And 1 water sensor to control the whole loop would be fine. A sensor before and after something could be fun just to see how much that device impacts the water temperature. But generally speaking it won't impact it much. So you could just stick one in the reservoir, or wherever you like, and run all your radiator fans off that sensor. It's actually what I'm doing now.

If you notice in that image, I took it because I was having trouble with the "smart control" of chassis fan 2. Turns out the issue was actually that I was trying to use "T-sensor 2" as this input. That took me several hours of googling to realize. I haven't found a solution to it. But considering t-sensor 1 (which is measuring the temp of the water returning from the CPU circuit) is normally exactly the same as t-sensor 2, I just have switched to using that to control the radiator fans in my GPU circuit. And it's been working well and fine.

Still hoping Asus will respond to my questions about that on the ROG forum though.
.


----------



## Thunderclez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dorito Bandit*
> 
> Yeah, I doubt I'll ever own a motherboard costing over $200, myself. Sure, they may be nice and have some great features, but I'd much rather spend that extra bit of money elsewhere on my system, like a larger SSD or something. But that's just me.
> 
> Best of luck with everything.


Absolutely on point, generally paying over $200+ for me alot of times on a board just means I maybe getting alot of features I am never going to use. When that money could have gone to other more important pieces such as the video card for a gaming machine, or more memory, etc. Getting 8 Sata ports for example is a bit pointless for me considering I don't even use a ODD. I use an SSD plus mechanical storage which I think is pretty standard now for a gaming build.


----------



## zerophase

The EK x3 250 fits the case perfectly with a push pull setup in the bottom and a fan mounted up top.


----------



## OGBeandip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zerophase*
> 
> The EK x3 250 fits the case perfectly with a push pull setup in the bottom and a fan mounted up top.


How thick is the bottom radiator?


----------



## maskymus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OGBeandip*
> 
> How thick is the bottom radiator?


Seems like a 60mm rad thickness as the half of grommet is exposed and Monsta rad in P/P covers it completely.


----------



## Said Nobody

Can the enthoo pro users take a look at this please : http://www.overclock.net/t/1568776/did-i-get-a-case-thats-not-new-phantek-enthoo-pro


----------



## TMatzelle60

Phanteks Evolv ITX owners i have a question. I noticed to install the 140mm fans in the front part you need to have the longer screws. Phonetics only provides the 4 longer screws for the pre installed fans. is there anything that i can do? Are the 140mm installed with the longer screws


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TMatzelle60*
> 
> Phanteks Evolv ITX owners i have a question. I noticed to install the 140mm fans in the front part you need to have the longer screws. Phonetics only provides the 4 longer screws for the pre installed fans. is there anything that i can do? Are the 140mm installed with the longer screws


I just went out and bought a pack of 1 1/4" X 6/32" screws, worked fine.


----------



## TMatzelle60

Thanks so much man it sucks that they don't have 2 sets. But like you said there not loose or ruin the screw hole ?

+ Rep


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TMatzelle60*
> 
> Thanks so much man it sucks that they don't have 2 sets. But like you said there not loose or ruin the screw hole ?
> 
> + Rep


No they fit perfect.


----------



## TMatzelle60

With the ITX how can i control my fan speed? since there is no fan controller space


----------



## zerophase

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OGBeandip*
> 
> How thick is the bottom radiator?


60 mm with 50 mm of fan or so.


----------



## TMatzelle60

What color are the power led and hdd activity led on the black phanteks evolv itx


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TMatzelle60*
> 
> What color are the power led and hdd activity led on the black phanteks evolv itx


Mine are both white.


----------



## TMatzelle60

"Thanks will rep when I get on pc also where is the power led and hdd activity led.


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TMatzelle60*
> 
> "Thanks will rep when I get on pc also where is the power led and hdd activity led.


They are around the reset switch, which is to the right of the front usb ports.


----------



## TMatzelle60

Just wanted to make sure both power led and hdd activity led are white you know color scheme ocd lol


----------



## zerophase

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *maskymus*
> 
> Seems like a 60mm rad thickness as the half of grommet is exposed and Monsta rad in P/P covers it completely.


The top bottom grommet us fully exposed. It's just the angle that makes it look partially covered. I did have to remove the bottom bottom grommet to fit the radiator in.


----------



## Kreuzer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TMatzelle60*
> 
> "Thanks will rep when I get on pc also where is the power led and hdd activity led.


Top white led ring (around the reset button) is the hdd and the bottom white led is the power.


----------



## OGBeandip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zerophase*
> 
> 60 mm with 50 mm of fan or so.


Thanks, exactly what I planned on using.


----------



## zerophase

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OGBeandip*
> 
> Thanks, exactly what I planned on using.


Turns out that setup might not work for me. My res ends up being below my lowest pump.


----------



## OGBeandip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zerophase*
> 
> Turns out that setup might not work for me. My res ends up being below my lowest pump.


Where are your pumps located?


----------



## zerophase

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OGBeandip*
> 
> Where are your pumps located?


Right, in the front of the case.



Ended up fixing it so I always flow down by removing the fan and sliding the reservoir up. Going to mount the rear fan to the outside of the case. I just have to figure out how to slide the connector in.


----------



## OGBeandip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zerophase*
> 
> Right, in the front of the case.
> 
> 
> 
> Ended up fixing it so I always flow down by removing the fan and sliding the reservoir up. Going to mount the rear fan to the outside of the case. I just have to figure out how to slide the connector in.


You could use a 120 or 80mm fan for the rear instead. That way it could stay inside the case


----------



## zerophase

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OGBeandip*
> 
> You could use a 120 or 80mm fan for the rear instead. That way it could stay inside the case


I think the res will get in the way.



If I can find a pump top to mount the res to I could do that instead.

I ended up slipping the fan cable over right where the back panel goes. Think closing the panel on the cable will damage it?


----------



## dkevox

^^ No, but you might have issues with vibration on the rear panel if you can't tighten the thumbscrews all the way. At least I was having a vibration that I couldn't figure out for a long time, until i finally realized if I just tightened the rear screws harder it went away.

I would just take a drill and drill a little hole in the case in the back right next to where the fan cable comes out of the fan. This will look clean and is easy to do. just have someone hold a vacuum near the drill and tape off the area behind where you are drilling with damp towels/paper towels to collect any metal shavings and you'll be fine.


----------



## retro123

Up and running with custom loop in my enthoo primo:




really looking forward to when mnpctech's Clear Window Replacement Side Panel becomes available. Anyone knows when that might be?

Core i7 4790K
Asus Sabertooth Z97 Mark S
EVGA 980 Ti SC+ ACX 2.0+ SLI
HyperX Fury 1866MHz
EVGA SuperNOVA G2 1300W
Phanteks Enthoo Primo
Samsung 850 EVO 1TB x2 + 500GB

Cooling:
Radiators/Fans: Alphacool Monsta 360mm med 6st EK Vardar F2-120 1450rpm, EK-CoolStream CE 420 med 3st Fractal Design Venturi HP-14 och 3st Noctua NF-A14, EK-CoolStream XE 240 med 2st Fractal Design Venturi HP-12 och 2st Noctua NF-F12.
Pump/Reservoar: EK-XRES D5 PWM + EK-RES X3 - TUBE 250
GPU block: EK-FC Titan X - Nickel
CPU block: EK-Supremacy EVO White Edition
EK-fittings, EK PrimoFlex tube 12/16mm


----------



## thekingbeyond

Got a black Luxe over the weekend, it replaces an original Nzxt Phantom. Nice case very well built, replaced the stock fans with Noctua p14- 2 at front, 1 at rear, and 3 at top., currently experimenting to see if the 3 at the top improve temps as intakes, would placing another P14 on the bottom be of benefit if the Psu cover is in place?
Also noticed the additional 2m led strip gets very warm, more so then the nzxt leds I have.


----------



## JMattes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thekingbeyond*
> 
> Got a black Luxe over the weekend, it replaces an original Nzxt Phantom. Nice case very well built, replaced the stock fans with Noctua p14- 2 at front, 1 at rear, and 3 at top., currently experimenting to see if the 3 at the top improve temps as intakes, would placing another P14 on the bottom be of benefit if the Psu cover is in place?
> Also noticed the additional 2m led strip gets very warm, more so then the nzxt leds I have.


Tha'ts great! I've been looking at the Luxe too. I have a Switch 810. Still on the fence though..


----------



## thekingbeyond

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JMattes*
> 
> Tha'ts great! I've been looking at the Luxe too. I have a Switch 810. Still on the fence though..


Its similar to the 810 in layout, that was my first choice before seeing the Luxe, the fans are the only negative about the case for me, both 140mm fans make a scratching noise, the Noctua fans come from build to build so replacing the Phanteks wasn't a problem.


----------



## JMattes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thekingbeyond*
> 
> Its similar to the 810 in layout, that was my first choice before seeing the Luxe, the fans are the only negative about the case for me, both 140mm fans make a scratching noise, the Noctua fans come from build to build so replacing the Phanteks wasn't a problem.


I have a set of Gentle Typoons.. like 11 or so.. I was just looking for better cable management and room for my SSDs which I kinda have them make shift screwed into the back..
So the Luxe is only a slight upgrade as it handles both of those better and provides a cool PSU cover, but other than that there isn't much that it offers that 810 doesnt..

So the fence part is just if I want to spend another $100 for something fresh that helps a bit, but the 810 still does what it needs too..


----------



## Faster_is_better

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *retro123*
> 
> Up and running with custom loop in my enthoo primo:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> really looking forward to when mnpctech's Clear Window Replacement Side Panel becomes available. Anyone knows when that might be?


They are available now, $100 though Nevermind, OOS lol http://mnpctech.com/phanteks-case-mods/phanteks-enthoo-primo-clear-replacement-side-panel/

That's a really nice build there


----------



## retro123

yep. out of stock, thanks man! Glad you like it


----------



## Said Nobody

Guys,

Ethroo pro users, I install my h100i at top, with push on top of the raditior. Is it best to put it bottom of the radiator?


----------



## kilo7echo

Just finished up the all the wiring for the new build.

If only intel would ship out the damn 6700k's now and stop messing with the release dates ill be in business, as for now i just have to stare it.


----------



## dkevox

^^ The storm trooper in there is priceless.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *retro123*
> 
> yep. out of stock, thanks man! Glad you like it


Your build is awesome! Love it man. I really like it without that side panel there, I might have to look into copying that from you.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Said Nobody*
> 
> Guys,
> 
> Ethroo pro users, I install my h100i at top, with push on top of the raditior. Is it best to put it bottom of the radiator?


I would put the fan on whichever side works better for you. Putting the fan in "pull" works just as well as "push", and in "pull" you won't get as much dust buildup on the radiator reducing performance over time.


----------



## zerophase

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dkevox*
> 
> ^^ No, but you might have issues with vibration on the rear panel if you can't tighten the thumbscrews all the way. At least I was having a vibration that I couldn't figure out for a long time, until i finally realized if I just tightened the rear screws harder it went away.
> 
> I would just take a drill and drill a little hole in the case in the back right next to where the fan cable comes out of the fan. This will look clean and is easy to do. just have someone hold a vacuum near the drill and tape off the area behind where you are drilling with damp towels/paper towels to collect any metal shavings and you'll be fine.


That would work. I could dremel out one of the holes to make it larger. Do I just need to cover up directly behind where I'm dremeling?


----------



## blackmesatech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *retro123*


Thanks I was looking for white ram to go with that motherboard. Nice job.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *retro123*
> 
> yep. out of stock, thanks man! Glad you like it


That's very well planned out nice job...I shattered two attempts for my acrylic pump mount it's always on the last hole


----------



## dkevox

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zerophase*
> 
> That would work. I could dremel out one of the holes to make it larger. Do I just need to cover up directly behind where I'm dremeling?


Yeah, I usually just take a few paper towels and fold them up so they are thick. Then I get them damp and tape it directly behind where the hole is going.

The case isn't thick at all, so won't take long to get through the hole. Then just vacuum up any debris and remove the paper towel (fold it as you remove it to keep any metal bits trapped). As this will be behind the motherboard area you'll really be fine.


----------



## zerophase

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dkevox*
> 
> Yeah, I usually just take a few paper towels and fold them up so they are thick. Then I get them damp and tape it directly behind where the hole is going.
> 
> The case isn't thick at all, so won't take long to get through the hole. Then just vacuum up any debris and remove the paper towel (fold it as you remove it to keep any metal bits trapped). As this will be behind the motherboard area you'll really be fine.


Yeah, I could cut the hole in the vents behind the tray. I was thinking about doing it in front, right next to the fan. Think I'll be safe I'm that position too?


----------



## dkevox

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zerophase*
> 
> Yeah, I could cut the hole in the vents behind the tray. I was thinking about doing it in front, right next to the fan. Think I'll be safe I'm that position too?


I cut big holes in a similar place on my last comp to fit 1/2 tubing through while the motherboard was installed in the case and it was fine. So you definitely can, just be careful. Use more paper towel then you think is necessary. And then after you vacuum just blast the area with some compressed air to be extra cautious and blow any potential metal out of the case(there shouldn't be any anyway)


----------



## Faster_is_better

Big case deserves a big build. Finally getting somewhere now











Much more picture goodness in build log in signature.


----------



## FastRedPonyCar

I've been making pretty good progress with my Primo build. check my sig for the build log. With any luck, I'll have it up and running before the weekend.

I'm slowly but surely chipping away at it each night for about an hour or two.

Here's how it sits currently. Most of the work is happening on the back for wire and cable management. My goal from step 1 has been wire management.


----------



## InCoGnIt0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *retro123*
> 
> Up and running with custom loop in my enthoo primo:
> 
> really looking forward to when mnpctech's Clear Window Replacement Side Panel becomes available. Anyone knows when that might be?


That is a really nice build, do you have a build log or could you tell us more about it?


----------



## Dorito Bandit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *retro123*
> 
> Up and running with custom loop in my enthoo primo:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> really looking forward to when mnpctech's Clear Window Replacement Side Panel becomes available. Anyone knows when that might be?


Beautiful build!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FastRedPonyCar*
> 
> I've been making pretty good progress with my Primo build. check my sig for the build log. With any luck, I'll have it up and running before the weekend.
> 
> I'm slowly but surely chipping away at it each night for about an hour or two.
> 
> Here's how it sits currently. Most of the work is happening on the back for wire and cable management. My goal from step 1 has been wire management.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ]


Man, I love the red & black builds! That looks very nice!


----------



## FastRedPonyCar

Quick question for you guys. My Alphacool radiators have all those ports on them but I'm curious if there is any drawback to not using an in/out on the same side

For example, is it ok for me to run in the side here on the end tank and then out the port facing up?

It would be really convinient for both the lower and upper radiator too as I need to go in a bottom facing port and out the end side port on the other side of the radiator to go back into the grommet and behind the motherboard.

I'm assuming (with little to no actual knoweldge of the fluid dynamics of all this) that as long as I tilt the case around to get all the air bubbles out, eventually it would all just fill with fluid to the point that it doesn't matter and that the coolant is GOING to find it's way in and out of the radiator no matter what way I run the ports.


----------



## dkevox

^^ Yeah dude, that's fine. You just don't want to go in the one port at the other side of the radiator and then out only one of the ports on the "top". You could technically use a cross flow like that, as long as you merged both the ports at the top back together with a y-connector or something.

But the ports are just feeds into large end tanks. So all the ports on that side ("left" or "right" side, not "top" side obviously) connect to the same place.


----------



## NullPointer

edit: nvm found it


----------



## Gohan_Nightwing

Out of curiosity, has anyone else in this thread gotten a vibration caused buzzing sound with their Enthoo Luxe? My window panel vibrates from what I believe to be the top fans. It doesn't happen all the time, but when it does, it sounds like a slow pulsing vibration noise.

I've mounted the 2, 140mm case fans that were included with the case on the top.

If anyone has, how have you fixed it? Would some rubber grommets work?

Thanks!


----------



## OGBeandip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gohan_Nightwing*
> 
> Out of curiosity, has anyone else in this thread gotten a vibration caused buzzing sound with their Enthoo Luxe? My window panel vibrates from what I believe to be the top fans. It doesn't happen all the time, but when it does, it sounds like a slow pulsing vibration noise.
> 
> I've mounted the 2, 140mm case fans that were included with the case on the top.
> 
> If anyone has, how have you fixed it? Would some rubber grommets work?
> 
> Thanks!


Rubber grommets or rubber screws will work. Something to dampen the vibration. Also further tightening down the fans might help


----------



## Gohan_Nightwing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OGBeandip*
> 
> Rubber grommets or rubber screws will work. Something to dampen the vibration. Also further tightening down the fans might help


Thanks for the tip! I'll first try to tighten the fans more and then move onto buying some grommets from Lowes or Home Depot if I can figure out what size would work.


----------



## OGBeandip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gohan_Nightwing*
> 
> Thanks for the tip! I'll first try to tighten the fans more and then move onto buying some grommets from Lowes or Home Depot if I can figure out what size would work.


The way I usually do it is rubber screws. My rear exhaust fan in my 750D had this issue so I used some rubber screws. The screws dont fasten the fan down all the way, so it doesnt touch the case. And the screws are rubber so they dont transfer vibration to the case. It just lets the fan do whatever vibration it wants but away from the case. Like a little suspension system sort of.


----------



## TMatzelle60

With the Evolve ITX I'm trying to figure out how i would control all 5 of my 140mm fans. Any idea


----------



## PriestOfSin

I've posted this in the beastly mitx thread, but I figured I'd post it here too!



ignore speccy info, I was attempting to reach 5GHz on the CPU and was failing, and took the speccy shot right after resetting my cmos. Overall, I love this case, and I honestly don't think I'll move out of it anytime soon. I had originally built this system in the 250D, but I had to make too many compromises. I had to use slim fans, couldn't manage wires at all, and was forced to squeeze the h100i tubing far too much for my liking. The Enthoo Evolv itx, on the other hand, was able to pack my entire build without any modification, and allowed me to do push/pull on my radiator.

All in all, 10/10 case, literally wouldn't change a thing.


----------



## TMatzelle60

Nice build expect a Z170 EVGA Build coming with eVGA PSU,MB and GPU


----------



## retro123

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InCoGnIt0*
> 
> That is a really nice build, do you have a build log or could you tell us more about it?


Thanks, glad you like it! I don't have any build log just a list of the components used:

Core i7 4790K
Asus Sabertooth Z97 Mark S
EVGA 980 Ti SC+ ACX 2.0+ SLI
HyperX Fury 1866MHz
EVGA SuperNOVA G2 1300W
Phanteks Enthoo Primo
Samsung 850 EVO 1TB x2 + 500GB

Cooling:
Radiators/Fans: Alphacool Monsta 360mm med 6st EK Vardar F2-120 1450rpm, EK-CoolStream CE 420 med 3st Fractal Design Venturi HP-14 och 3st Noctua NF-A14, EK-CoolStream XE 240 med 2st Fractal Design Venturi HP-12 och 2st Noctua NF-F12.
Pump/Reservoar: EK-XRES D5 PWM + EK-RES X3 - TUBE 250
GPU block: EK-FC Titan X - Nickel
CPU block: EK-Supremacy EVO White Edition
EK-fittings, EK PrimoFlex tube 12/16mm


----------



## dkevox

Well,

I finally got around to taking some pics of my setup. Thought people might enjoy.

First up is cable hell. This case makes it really easy to organize your cables, loved how little effort it took to keep it clean! I know this is nothing cool to look at, but for 13 fans, 3 pumps, numerous fan extension cables, LED lighting... not bad results for not much effort!



The mass of cables in the middle section was too much to close the rear case door, so that's why the power cables all got fanned out to the side like that. Oh well. And If you look closely you can see my drain port hidden in there between the pumps. Used koolance QDC's for fill and drain ports.

But the whole point is to keep the front clean, and it does a great job of that!



I need to get a few more LEDs and change the EVGA logo to red. Coolant is Mayhems X1 blood red. The 4 tube connectors to the reservoir are all setup to allow me to bend the reservoir out for filling.



Holy ****, how much stuff do I have plugged into this thing!


----------



## PriestOfSin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dkevox*
> 
> pics


I started salivating. Like, more than usual.


----------



## Gohan_Nightwing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OGBeandip*
> 
> The way I usually do it is rubber screws. My rear exhaust fan in my 750D had this issue so I used some rubber screws. The screws dont fasten the fan down all the way, so it doesnt touch the case. And the screws are rubber so they dont transfer vibration to the case. It just lets the fan do whatever vibration it wants but away from the case. Like a little suspension system sort of.


That's pretty sweet! Thanks for the tip! Any recommendations on what kind? Things like brand, length, width, etc.?

Thanks!


----------



## OGBeandip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gohan_Nightwing*
> 
> That's pretty sweet! Thanks for the tip! Any recommendations on what kind? Things like brand, length, width, etc.?
> 
> Thanks!


Unfortunately I cant help you there. I dont really have any brand in particular. Check PPCS for whatever will work. As far as length and width goes, it will depend on your fans and case or radiator.


----------



## Gohan_Nightwing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OGBeandip*
> 
> Unfortunately I cant help you there. I dont really have any brand in particular. Check PPCS for whatever will work. As far as length and width goes, it will depend on your fans and case or radiator.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OGBeandip*
> 
> Unfortunately I cant help you there. I dont really have any brand in particular. Check PPCS for whatever will work. As far as length and width goes, it will depend on your fans and case or radiator.


Dang... Thanks for your help though!


----------



## Faster_is_better

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dkevox*
> 
> Well,
> 
> I finally got around to taking some pics of my setup. Thought people might enjoy.
> 
> First up is cable hell. This case makes it really easy to organize your cables, loved how little effort it took to keep it clean! I know this is nothing cool to look at, but for 13 fans, 3 pumps, numerous fan extension cables, LED lighting... not bad results for not much effort!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The mass of cables in the middle section was too much to close the rear case door, so that's why the power cables all got fanned out to the side like that. Oh well. And If you look closely you can see my drain port hidden in there between the pumps. Used koolance QDC's for fill and drain ports.
> 
> But the whole point is to keep the front clean, and it does a great job of that!
> 
> 
> 
> I need to get a few more LEDs and change the EVGA logo to red. Coolant is Mayhems X1 blood red. The 4 tube connectors to the reservoir are all setup to allow me to bend the reservoir out for filling.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Holy ****, how much stuff do I have plugged into this thing!


Haha, its hard to not plug in that much stuff









These white cases are certainly nice, they show details nicely and probably a lot easier to picture than the black ones.

Overall nice color matching and build. Is your sound card not seated straight in the socket? Maybe optical illusion.


----------



## TMatzelle60

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dkevox*
> 
> Well,
> 
> I finally got around to taking some pics of my setup. Thought people might enjoy.
> 
> First up is cable hell. This case makes it really easy to organize your cables, loved how little effort it took to keep it clean! I know this is nothing cool to look at, but for 13 fans, 3 pumps, numerous fan extension cables, LED lighting... not bad results for not much effort!
> 
> 
> 
> The mass of cables in the middle section was too much to close the rear case door, so that's why the power cables all got fanned out to the side like that. Oh well. And If you look closely you can see my drain port hidden in there between the pumps. Used koolance QDC's for fill and drain ports.
> 
> But the whole point is to keep the front clean, and it does a great job of that!
> 
> 
> 
> I need to get a few more LEDs and change the EVGA logo to red. Coolant is Mayhems X1 blood red. The 4 tube connectors to the reservoir are all setup to allow me to bend the reservoir out for filling.
> 
> 
> 
> Holy ****, how much stuff do I have plugged into this thing!






Why not ROG Sli Bridge


----------



## Reaper28

@PriestOfSin lol I like the black pig, nice rig too


----------



## dkevox

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PriestOfSin*
> 
> I started salivating. Like, more than usual.


Thank you!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Faster_is_better*
> 
> Haha, its hard to not plug in that much stuff
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These white cases are certainly nice, they show details nicely and probably a lot easier to picture than the black ones.
> 
> Overall nice color matching and build. Is your sound card not seated straight in the socket? Maybe optical illusion.


I've been fighting that damn thing! I can't figure out what is going on. It's seated right and working fine, but does have that bend/angle to it.

I probably need to contact creative, it does bug me.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TMatzelle60*
> 
> 
> Why not ROG Sli Bridge


I couldn't find the thing in stock or a good place to order it from (that isn't an absurd $190 on ebay).

Between EVGA and ROG I don't really have much preference. I was thinking of painting the ouside case of the EVGA white and changing the logo to red. Thought it would go real well.

I love EVGA simply because they have always been watercooling friendly with GPUs and I've been watercooling for over 10 years now.

I've also used a lot of Asus mobos, but until this build I never owned anything ROG branded. Now I have the ROG mobo and 3 swift ROG monitors lol. So I guess it would be appropriate. Just need a link to buy it from.

*Lastly*

Just ordered some of these cause they couldn't match the color theme any better lol. Doesn't hurt I have numerous Sennheiser headphones and love them.


----------



## Sludacris

So, I have had the gray Evolv ATX on preorder since day 1 and even through all the delays, was holding out hope for the gray. Phanteks emailed me saying, "The date is not available. The grey Evolv ATX may never make it to the United States unless imported from a different European seller."

My build has been centered around the gray case and the specs of the ATX (gray paracord, 240X and a 360mm rad). On top of that, I get the feeling that Phanteks doesn't care or isn't trying to make up for the amount of time I have waited for a product that I was promised. And now I do not have many options besides getting the black case or a define S and that seems like I would be settling rather than getting what I wanted.

Do I have a right to be as mad as I am right now? Does anyone have any suggestions on cases besides the define S? I like the primo, but it is just too big and the luxe doesn't really accommodate the build I am doing. Thanks.


----------



## FastRedPonyCar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dkevox*
> 
> Well,
> 
> I finally got around to taking some pics of my setup. Thought people might enjoy.
> 
> First up is cable hell. This case makes it really easy to organize your cables, loved how little effort it took to keep it clean! I know this is nothing cool to look at, but for 13 fans, 3 pumps, numerous fan extension cables, LED lighting... not bad results for not much effort!
> 
> 
> 
> The mass of cables in the middle section was too much to close the rear case door, so that's why the power cables all got fanned out to the side like that. Oh well. And If you look closely you can see my drain port hidden in there between the pumps. Used koolance QDC's for fill and drain ports.


WOAH... that's a ****ton of cables.

I've been constantly managing all the wires as I go through my build. I've been segregating various types of wire groups into their own individual bundles to avoid a huge mass. Main reason for that (other than cleanliness) is that if I have to swap something or remove something, I won't have to undo a huge mess of cables only to have to cram the whole thing back together after I'm done. I can simply undo the specific cables necessary.... so no messing with fan cables or LED molex cables or anything like that if I'm in there to add a new HDD.

I've still got a lot to go but so far, it's SO much more organized and less of a big bowl of spaghetti compared to my other builds.


----------



## dkevox

Yeah, I'm sure yours will look soo much better. I just didn't care that much about the back as long as everything fit. Un-doing and adding more cables isn't as hard as you would think. Those straps works amazingly well. I didn't have much choice about that middle section except to buy a whole ton of fan extension cables and route them way around the right side. But even then the middle would still be a clusterf*ck.

To try to avoid too much hassle with that though, I routed some spare sata and sata power cables to the SSD/5.25 bay area. Hoping this will keep me good for a while.

I still have some more LED wiring to do. I currently have all the red LEDs driven off the phanteks pwm hub. This way their brightness scales with the temperature of the CPU (cause that's how I have that controlled). Which makes a really cool effect imo.

Then I want to run some white LEDs to various spots in the case for just general lighting. These will all be connected through the switch on the top of the case.

Beyond that the only change I could see myself making hardware wise is a 3rd 980ti. But I'm still seeing how well 2 of them handle 3d surround.


----------



## jassilamba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *retro123*
> 
> Up and running with custom loop in my enthoo primo:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> really looking forward to when mnpctech's Clear Window Replacement Side Panel becomes available. Anyone knows when that might be?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Core i7 4790K
> Asus Sabertooth Z97 Mark S
> EVGA 980 Ti SC+ ACX 2.0+ SLI
> HyperX Fury 1866MHz
> EVGA SuperNOVA G2 1300W
> Phanteks Enthoo Primo
> Samsung 850 EVO 1TB x2 + 500GB
> 
> Cooling:
> Radiators/Fans: Alphacool Monsta 360mm med 6st EK Vardar F2-120 1450rpm, EK-CoolStream CE 420 med 3st Fractal Design Venturi HP-14 och 3st Noctua NF-A14, EK-CoolStream XE 240 med 2st Fractal Design Venturi HP-12 och 2st Noctua NF-F12.
> Pump/Reservoar: EK-XRES D5 PWM + EK-RES X3 - TUBE 250
> GPU block: EK-FC Titan X - Nickel
> CPU block: EK-Supremacy EVO White Edition
> EK-fittings, EK PrimoFlex tube 12/16mm


I have it on really good authority that MNPctech Enthoo Primo clear panels will be listed for sale on Friday.


----------



## BLOWNCO

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dkevox*
> 
> Yeah, I'm sure yours will look soo much better. I just didn't care that much about the back as long as everything fit. Un-doing and adding more cables isn't as hard as you would think. Those straps works amazingly well. I didn't have much choice about that middle section except to buy a whole ton of fan extension cables and route them way around the right side. But even then the middle would still be a clusterf*ck.
> 
> To try to avoid too much hassle with that though, I routed some spare sata and sata power cables to the SSD/5.25 bay area. Hoping this will keep me good for a while.
> 
> I still have some more LED wiring to do. I currently have all the red LEDs driven off the phanteks pwm hub. This way their brightness scales with the temperature of the CPU (cause that's how I have that controlled). Which makes a really cool effect imo.
> 
> Then I want to run some white LEDs to various spots in the case for just general lighting. These will all be connected through the switch on the top of the case.
> 
> Beyond that the only change I could see myself making hardware wise is a 3rd 980ti. But I'm still seeing how well 2 of them handle 3d surround.


where did you get the other fan hub? is it just the phanteks one with the cover taken off?


----------



## dkevox

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BLOWNCO*
> 
> where did you get the other fan hub? is it just the phanteks one with the cover taken off?


The phantek's hub is actually way at the top center. If you follow that cabling up you'll see it buried up in there. I moved it up there. (Oh, I bought my case a year ago, so I guess they've updated that hub to now have a cover, it didn't when I bought my case).

The 2 hubs you see in the middle are both Swiftech PWM hubs. They are just simple straight PWM splitters. I have the fans for my top rad connected off the top one of those, and the fans for my bottom rad connected off the bottom one.

The fan speeds are controlled by water temperature in each of those loops. The PWM pump speed is controlled by the temperature of the CPU or GPU (depending on which circuit).

The rampage V extreme has a crap-ton of inputs to it. Here you can see how I have everything configured. This is from when I was having trouble with Fan Expert 3, but I did label all the inputs.


----------



## BLOWNCO

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dkevox*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> The phantek's hub is actually way at the top center. If you follow that cabling up you'll see it buried up in there. I moved it up there. (Oh, I bought my case a year ago, so I guess they've updated that hub to now have a cover, it didn't when I bought my case).
> 
> The 2 hubs you see in the middle are both Swiftech PWM hubs. They are just simple straight PWM splitters. I have the fans for my top rad connected off the top one of those, and the fans for my bottom rad connected off the bottom one.
> 
> The fan speeds are controlled by water temperature in each of those loops. The PWM pump speed is controlled by the temperature of the CPU or GPU (depending on which circuit).
> 
> The rampage V extreme has a crap-ton of inputs to it. Here you can see how I have everything configured. This is from when I was having trouble with Fan Expert 3, but I did label all the inputs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ]


awesome thanks for the info i just ordered 2 swifttech hubs. cant wait to get the primo should be here tomorrow.


----------



## Faster_is_better

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dkevox*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *BLOWNCO*
> 
> where did you get the other fan hub? is it just the phanteks one with the cover taken off?
> 
> 
> 
> The phantek's hub is actually way at the top center. If you follow that cabling up you'll see it buried up in there. I moved it up there. (Oh, I bought my case a year ago, so I guess they've updated that hub to now have a cover, it didn't when I bought my case).
> 
> The 2 hubs you see in the middle are both Swiftech PWM hubs. They are just simple straight PWM splitters. I have the fans for my top rad connected off the top one of those, and the fans for my bottom rad connected off the bottom one.
> 
> The fan speeds are controlled by water temperature in each of those loops. The PWM pump speed is controlled by the temperature of the CPU or GPU (depending on which circuit).
> 
> The rampage V extreme has a crap-ton of inputs to it. Here you can see how I have everything configured. This is from when I was having trouble with Fan Expert 3, but I did label all the inputs.
Click to expand...

Are you using the Corsair Commander Mini then? How well does it work, any problems?


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PriestOfSin*
> 
> I've posted this in the beastly mitx thread, but I figured I'd post it here too!
> 
> 
> 
> ignore speccy info, I was attempting to reach 5GHz on the CPU and was failing, and took the speccy shot right after resetting my cmos. Overall, I love this case, and I honestly don't think I'll move out of it anytime soon. I had originally built this system in the 250D, but I had to make too many compromises. I had to use slim fans, couldn't manage wires at all, and was forced to squeeze the h100i tubing far too much for my liking. The Enthoo Evolv itx, on the other hand, was able to pack my entire build without any modification, and allowed me to do push/pull on my radiator.
> 
> All in all, 10/10 case, literally wouldn't change a thing.


Nice build, looks really good. I am so ready to pull the trigger on a z170 and an i5 6600k. Only m-itx board out at the moment is the EVGA Stinger. Too expensive, no usb 3.1, no wi-fi and no useable M.2 connector for a Samsung SM951 M.2 SSD. That is half the reason I want to upgrade to z170.

Hopefully the Asus and Asrock boards will be released soon.


----------



## Reaper28

My rig will be finished tomorrow, just waiting for the last SSD and OS. It was my first time watercooling and after other issues it is finally done.


----------



## dkevox

^^ Nice. Looks way better than my first watercooled comp lol.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Faster_is_better*
> 
> Are you using the Corsair Commander Mini then? How well does it work, any problems?


I have it sitting in a box over here. I was going to use it in order to control the lights on the corsair dominator airflow platinum's, but turns out I can't mount those with a card in the first PCIe slot on this motherboard :/

So I'm debating installing it as I have several of their LED strips to go with it, or just ordering white LEDs and placing them around the case where I want (or both)

I have the Corsair Link program up because I have my ax1500i connected through internal usb and I can monitor power consumption with it. However, it hasn't been the most reliable, freezes up and crashes and is just slow. I don't know if it's the program, or compatibility with windows 10. So I'm going to wait to see if it gets any better then I'll decide whether to use the commander mini or not.


----------



## OGBeandip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dkevox*
> 
> ^^ Nice. Looks way better than my first watercooled comp lol.
> I have it sitting in a box over here. I was going to use it in order to control the lights on the corsair dominator airflow platinum's, but turns out I can't mount those with a card in the first PCIe slot on this motherboard :/
> 
> So I'm debating installing it as I have several of their LED strips to go with it, or just ordering white LEDs and placing them around the case where I want (or both)
> 
> I have the Corsair app up because I have my ax1500i connected through internal usb and I can monitor power consumption with the corsair link app.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Reaper28*
> 
> My rig will be finished tomorrow, just waiting for the last SSD and OS. It was my first time watercooling and after other issues it is finally done.


Certainly looks better than my first time. Pic related, glad this system is dead and gone. 

Ignore the mess. I promise I cleaned


----------



## dkevox

^^ That still is way better than mine!!! Not to run this thread way off topic, but you guys got me to go dig through some really old files I've had stored and dug up some good memories. God this was a long time ago and I knew nothing.



(I swear I did this before antec and swiftech came out with the water cooled version of the P180B case (if anyone remembers that). I still stick with that they stole that idea from me).


----------



## DarthTater

Hi All,

I am seriously considering a move away from Micro ATX computing to E-ATX and the Enthoo Primo looks like it has made my shortlist. I am considering running two separate loops. A few questions:

Is the dual loop necessary for x3 GFX and Full Cover CPU, CRM etc?
What is the best sized rad to fit in the bottom of the case? I had been thinking about a 480mm but want to know what impact that has on the intake fan scenario on the case front. Does this length of rad affect those fans?
Is the Special Edition worth going for over the standard Primo? I do like the black with white interior but also like the plain black.
What are my best options on the reservoir front?
Thanks for your help guys.

DT.


----------



## OGBeandip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthTater*
> 
> Hi All,
> 
> I am seriously considering a move away from Micro ATX computing to E-ATX and the Enthoo Primo looks like it has made my shortlist. I am considering running two separate loops. A few questions:
> 
> Is the dual loop necessary for x3 GFX and Full Cover CPU, CRM etc?
> What is the best sized rad to fit in the bottom of the case? I had been thinking about a 480mm but want to know what impact that has on the intake fan scenario on the case front. Does this length of rad affect those fans?
> Is the Special Edition worth going for over the standard Primo? I do like the black with white interior but also like the plain black.
> What are my best options on the reservoir front?
> Thanks for your help guys.
> 
> DT.


Im in the middle of a primo build and I have a 60mm thick 480mm long radiator in the bottom. Works fine, of course one of the intake fans is a little blocked but it wont make a big difference since its watercooled anyways.

A dual loop system isnt ever needed. But can help if you want to isolate temps. I am doing a dual loop in mine.

The only benefit of the special edition is color, so thats up to you.

for reservoirs you can use anything. Bay or tube. I am using 2 EK X3 multires 250s in my system. One for each loop.


----------



## maskymus

*DarthTater,*
1. No, it's not necessary. You can put everything on one loop if you have enough heat dissipation.
2. If you want to use both HDD cages than 280/360 else I'd recommend the largest one (480mm). With 480 you lose bottom HDD cage space, you can still place two front fans but I'd use just one and have a proper bleed port on the bottom rad.
3. Matter of taste and build.
4. Try to explain where you want to mount the res. If you want to place it in 5.25 bays, then look for dual slot bay res with multiple ports.


----------



## dkevox

Another thing you can consider is a multi loop system that share the same reservoir. One of the advantages of a multi loop (like a dual loop) configuration is you can vary the pump speed to the CPU loop or the GPU loop based on the CPU/GPU temp respectively and you'll get more flow/better temps because the total loop resistance is lower. Generally though for gaming you will be generating heat in all the components and will therefore be cranking up the pump speed for both loops and your fan speeds for the radiators (so no advantages for gaming over a single loop).

But for video encoding or other cpu intensive processes that don't stress the GPU(s) it can be nice. You'll hear your cpu pump ramp up but as all the heat is being dissipated by all the radiators (in a multi loop system with shared reservoir) generally you don't need to increase your fan speed much as the water temp won't climb very much. This can keep the system way more quiet under heavy CPU loads while still keeping the CPU nice and cold. Where as in a dual loop where you have the CPU on it's own circuit with less radiators then you'd have to crank the fans up more.

The flip side of the coin is that under heavy loads in both circuits, you can keep the CPU temps lower in an isolated dual loop setup because the GPUs dump a lot more heat into the system. But this is going to be dependent on your system configuration. This does mean the GPUs will then run a bit hotter than the would on a single loop or shared reservoir multi loop (assuming same radiator setup).

Also, a 280mm in the bottom and a 240mm in the front is more radiator coverage than just a 420 in the bottom.


----------



## DarthTater

Thanks for the advice all. It looks like a single loop will work for me then (I am gamer and tend not to run tasks that independently load up CPU and GPUs).

I am thinking a 60mm radiator in the top AND bottom of the case. Will I be able to keep the top drive bay (mounted under the OD rack) with a 60mm rad fitted in a push pull arrangement?

I like the idea of a bayres as it will help to keep clutter out of the window but if I am able to make a cylinder res look good, and be in full view of the window, then that would be awesome also.

I haven't run a full custom loop for a good few years. So will probably go with what I know *DDC Ultra, but perhaps get a dual pump top to boost head pressure (I plan to have x3 GTX 980s and CPU plus MOBO cooled by the loop) so the additional flowrate the setup will provide will probably be beneficial.

Any other things I should worry about re the Primo? How does that door fair?

Cheers again all!







looking forward to hearing more great advice!!


----------



## OGBeandip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthTater*
> 
> Thanks for the advice all. It looks like a single loop will work for me then (I am gamer and tend not to run tasks that independently load up CPU and GPUs).
> 
> I am thinking a 60mm radiator in the top AND bottom of the case. Will I be able to keep the top drive bay (mounted under the OD rack) with a 60mm rad fitted in a push pull arrangement?
> 
> I like the idea of a bayres as it will help to keep clutter out of the window but if I am able to make a cylinder res look good, and be in full view of the window, then that would be awesome also.
> 
> I haven't run a full custom loop for a good few years. So will probably go with what I know *DDC Ultra, but perhaps get a dual pump top to boost head pressure (I plan to have x3 GTX 980s and CPU plus MOBO cooled by the loop) so the additional flowrate the setup will provide will probably be beneficial.
> 
> Any other things I should worry about re the Primo? How does that door fair?
> 
> Cheers again all!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> looking forward to hearing more great advice!!


a 60mm radiator will work fine with both harddrive cages in the bottom depending on the length. I know it will work with a 240 and most likely 280, not sure about 360+
I havent done any measurements and I am using a 480 60mm thick down there.

Also the DDC Ultra is nice but I prefer the D5, look into D5 and MCP655 pumps if youre up for a change.


----------



## Faster_is_better

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthTater*
> 
> Thanks for the advice all. It looks like a single loop will work for me then (I am gamer and tend not to run tasks that independently load up CPU and GPUs).
> 
> *I am thinking a 60mm radiator in the top AND bottom of the case. Will I be able to keep the top drive bay (mounted under the OD rack) with a 60mm rad fitted in a push pull arrangement?*
> 
> I like the idea of a bayres as it will help to keep clutter out of the window but if I am able to make a cylinder res look good, and be in full view of the window, then that would be awesome also.
> 
> I haven't run a full custom loop for a good few years. So will probably go with what I know *DDC Ultra, but perhaps get a dual pump top to boost head pressure (I plan to have x3 GTX 980s and CPU plus MOBO cooled by the loop) so the additional flowrate the setup will provide will probably be beneficial.
> 
> Any other things I should worry about re the Primo? How does that door fair?
> 
> Cheers again all!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> looking forward to hearing more great advice!!


Yes, check out this page for measurements.

60mm up top is a tighter fit, but it can be done as well. I'm pretty sure maskymus is using on in the top, you can look at his log for an idea how it fits.


----------



## TMatzelle60

Question for you guys how is the Enthoo Pro, Is it a well made nice case? Looking to have a case to place on top of desk


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TMatzelle60*
> 
> Question for you guys how is the Enthoo Pro, Is it a well made nice case? Looking to have a case to place on top of desk


There are countless reviews and an awfully long thread here suggesting it is a very well made case.....with the possible exception of the side window.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> There are countless reviews and an awfully long thread here suggesting it is a very well made case.....with the possible exception of the side window.


best case I've ever bought...and especially the best cases for their price points...in fact the ultra aluminus case I bought 10-12 years ago was double the price...now one would look at it like they do the manila folder cases of decades past lol


----------



## tatmMRKIV

I like it but it definitely could be better. But not at this price...


----------



## maskymus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthTater*
> 
> Thanks for the advice all. It looks like a single loop will work for me then (I am gamer and tend not to run tasks that independently load up CPU and GPUs).
> 
> I am thinking a 60mm radiator in the top AND bottom of the case. Will I be able to keep the top drive bay (mounted under the OD rack) with a 60mm rad fitted in a push pull arrangement?
> 
> Cheers again all!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> looking forward to hearing more great advice!!


I have 80mm rad in push/pull on the bottom and have the top hdd cage and there is still some room.


----------



## Bravoexo

Hi Primo owners, do you know if a 153-154 mm wide radiator fits through the optical bay at the top? I have seen instances of 144-146mm wide 420mm (3x140) rads being installed on top, but I haven't seen if a HWLabs 420 will fit? (I have a GTX420 lying around that I would like to reuse and have been looking for a case that fits a 420 and a 360 internally.


----------



## DarthTater

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Faster_is_better*
> 
> Yes, check out this page for measurements.
> 
> 60mm up top is a tighter fit, but it can be done as well. I'm pretty sure maskymus is using on in the top, you can look at his log for an idea how it fits.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *maskymus*
> 
> I have 80mm rad in push/pull on the bottom and have the top hdd cage and there is still some room.


Thanks for the help guys!


----------



## maskymus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bravoexo*
> 
> Hi Primo owners, do you know if a 153-154 mm wide radiator fits through the optical bay at the top? I have seen instances of 144-146mm wide 420mm (3x140) rads being installed on top, but I haven't seen if a HWLabs 420 will fit? (I have a GTX420 lying around that I would like to reuse and have been looking for a case that fits a 420 and a 360 internally.


The width of 5.25 bay is 146mm, that's why you've seen instances of such rads installed on top. You can remove the side support panel and fit something bigger but then you'll have to think how to get back 5.25/HDD cage rigidity.


----------



## ppkstat

Hello people,

I have a question before I take the plunge and buy an enthoo primo. It's about res placement. I'd really like to place the res at the site where the res bracket is located. My res is the EK res with a diameter of 60mm(2.36in). With my current card, which is an EVGA 780ti classified I am sure it won't fit.

So my question is that if I get one of the reference 980 ti - 266.7mm (10.5in) cards will I be able to fit it with being extraordinary difficult or an extreme close fit? I don't mind drilling holes anywhere and even modding the bracket If I have to. I would also like to use the use the bracket, but I don't really mind If I end up not using it. All I care about is to put the res and the card there.

Any feedback on these? Thanks in advance.


----------



## Bravoexo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *maskymus*
> 
> The width of 5.25 bay is 146mm, that's why you've seen instances of such rads installed on top. You can remove the side support panel and fit something bigger but then you'll have to think how to get back 5.25/HDD cage rigidity.


Thanks. I feared as much. Oh well, the search continues then.


----------



## dkevox

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ppkstat*
> 
> Hello people,
> 
> I have a question before I take the plunge and buy an enthoo primo. It's about res placement. I'd really like to place the res at the site where the res bracket is located. My res is the EK res with a diameter of 60mm(2.36in). With my current card, which is an EVGA 780ti classified I am sure it won't fit.
> 
> So my question is that if I get one of the reference 980 ti - 266.7mm (10.5in) cards will I be able to fit it with being extraordinary difficult or an extreme close fit? I don't mind drilling holes anywhere and even modding the bracket If I have to. I would also like to use the use the bracket, but I don't really mind If I end up not using it. All I care about is to put the res and the card there.
> 
> Any feedback on these? Thanks in advance.


I fit a 2.5" diameter reservoir on that bracket with reference 980ti. So you could definitely fit a 2.36" diameter reservoir there. Mine is mounted centered around the center holes in the bracket. You can see a pic in this post:

http://www.overclock.net/t/1418637/official-case-phanteks-club-enthoo-primo-primo-se-luxe-pro-mini-xl-evolv-evolv-itx-evolv-atx-lovers-owners/10880#post_24288555


----------



## Faster_is_better

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ppkstat*
> 
> Hello people,
> 
> I have a question before I take the plunge and buy an enthoo primo. It's about res placement. I'd really like to place the res at the site where the res bracket is located. My res is the EK res with a diameter of 60mm(2.36in). With my current card, which is an EVGA 780ti classified I am sure it won't fit.
> 
> So my question is that if I get one of the reference 980 ti - 266.7mm (10.5in) cards will I be able to fit it with being extraordinary difficult or an extreme close fit? I don't mind drilling holes anywhere and even modding the bracket If I have to. I would also like to use the use the bracket, but I don't really mind If I end up not using it. All I care about is to put the res and the card there.
> 
> Any feedback on these? Thanks in advance.


It should fit, I put a 65mm res behind my cards (r9 290s) and they are about as long as it gets. There is still a bit of room actually.

See this pic.

From where I took the measurement on the right is actually not where your res would hit though, see this pic also.

It's about 75mm from the edge of optical bays till the end of my cards. The original heatsinks on these cards were another 5 or 6mm longer even, but that would still give you room to mount a reservoir.

You can see my clearances here:


----------



## ppkstat

Thanks a lot for you replies guys, I really appreciate it!

Looks like there's more space than I initially thought. Faster_is_better I read that the length of a R9 290 is 278mm very close to my classified. That means that it might as well fit, however according to the phantek's site both cards cannot be installed with the res bracket. Maybe they put some mmm less for safety, I don't know.

It doesn't REALLY matter as I can still put a reference card in there. I am buying the case


----------



## Faster_is_better

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ppkstat*
> 
> Thanks a lot for you replies guys, I really appreciate it!
> 
> Looks like there's more space than I initially thought. Faster_is_better I read that the length of a R9 290 is 278mm very close to my classified. That means that it might as well fit, however according to the phantek's site both cards cannot be installed with the res bracket. Maybe they put some mmm less for safety, I don't know.
> 
> It doesn't REALLY matter as I can still put a reference card in there. I am buying the case


If you have a long card like mine you have to cut out notches in the plastic cover that goes on top of the res bracket. Optionally you can leave off that plastic piece and a single card will likely fit without any modifications, but you may have to drill new mounting holes for the reservoir.



For 2 cards, depending on how your PCIe slots are arranged you have to also trim the metal part of the bracket as well like this:


Actually if you look in my build log toward the end I posted a lot of pictures making these mods and mounting the reservoir, should give you a good idea of your options.
Build log in signature
V
V


----------



## OGBeandip

Has anyone removed the side support panel and 5.25 inch bays from the Primo?

How did you do it and do you have pictures


----------



## Faster_is_better

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OGBeandip*
> 
> Has anyone removed the side support panel and 5.25 inch bays from the Primo?
> 
> How did you do it and do you have pictures


If you mean the panel that has the 5.25" latches and also the Phanteks badge, it is only attached by screws, about 6 or 7. Just have to uninstall the front and top plastic parts to get to the screws, and it slides out easily.

Check my signature, the Primo Measurements may have some picture you are looking for.


----------



## dkevox

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Faster_is_better*
> 
> If you have a long card like mine you have to cut out notches in the plastic cover that goes on top of the res bracket. Optionally you can leave off that plastic piece and a single card will likely fit without any modifications, but you may have to drill new mounting holes for the reservoir.
> 
> For 2 cards, depending on how your PCIe slots are arranged you have to also trim the metal part of the bracket as well like this:
> 
> 
> Actually if you look in my build log toward the end I posted a lot of pictures making these mods and mounting the reservoir, should give you a good idea of your options.
> Build log in signature
> V
> V


^^^ This!

It really depends on what PCIe slots you will be mounting the graphics card in. But if you want to mount one in the 5th expansion slot then you have to do the modification shown. And that's obviously for clearance with a waterblock. If you have the stock air heat-sink you'd need even more.

Faster_is_better you did soo much more prep work than I did! Good man. I got to that point and went well ****... Luckily had a pair of metal sheers that sliced right through it like butter while in the case.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OGBeandip*
> 
> Has anyone removed the side support panel and 5.25 inch bays from the Primo?
> 
> How did you do it and do you have pictures


This guy did it. I think it looks great. Has me looking into doing it.
http://www.overclock.net/t/1418637/official-case-phanteks-club-enthoo-primo-primo-se-luxe-pro-mini-xl-evolv-evolv-itx-evolv-atx-lovers-owners/10850#post_24280764


----------



## GhettoFied

Does anyone know if all the other phanteks cases were avaliable on Amazon on launch day? Hoping to get an atx on the 17th


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GhettoFied*
> 
> Does anyone know if all the other phanteks cases were avaliable on Amazon on launch day? Hoping to get an atx on the 17th


don't think the Luxe was. could be wrong.


----------



## Revan654

I haven't gotten my case yet(Primo). I was wonder if theirs enough clearance to put a 420 radiator ontop and a 140 at the exhaust area(Top)? Trying to plan my Loop to see what will work and what wouldn't.

I currently have 420 and 280 Rad. Would adding one or two 140 Rads at both exhaust area be worth it or would it just be overkill?


----------



## dkevox

You could fit a 140mm in the exhaust area. What thickness is your 420mm rad? A 45mm rad can fit fans in push pull on the top, anything bigger and only pull (nothing wrong with that)

420 is the perfect size for the top, you can move it far enough forward in the case to have top ports on it accessible from the top of the case (if you have an xt45). This is awesome for filling and bleeding. I just stuck a Koolance male disconnect in one of the ports and leave a tube full of water sitting up there while bleeding.

Now, the 140 on the exhaust will be encroaching on the motherboard a lot, but you could do it. It would just overlap the IO ports a lot, but would fit. See these pics:
http://www.overclock.net/t/1418637/official-case-phanteks-case-club-for-lovers-owners/10880#post_24288555

That's with a 420mm xt45 on top with fans in push-pull, and that's a 140mm exhaust fan. So you can see there is the room, but it'll just eat up a lot of exhaust space.


----------



## SirJim

Does anyone know if you can install a 140mm fan on the bottom intake of the luxe without having to remove anything like the bottom drive cages and also if I move the 200mm fan from the front to the top for exhaust, can I also mount say a 120mm or 140mm on top also?


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SirJim*
> 
> Does anyone know if you can install a 140mm fan on the bottom intake of the luxe without having to remove anything like the bottom drive cages and also if I move the 200mm fan from the front to the top for exhaust, can I also mount say a 120mm or 140mm on top also?


the answer to both of those questions is yes, sort of. it would make sense to remove the psu cover, that will completely cover the 140mm fan.


----------



## SirJim

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PureBlackFire*
> 
> the answer to both of those questions is yes, sort of. it would make sense to remove the psu cover, that will completely cover the 140mm fan.


Thanks for the info. Now I can order the case and extra fans that will be needed all at once. Didn't want to have the case and not have the fans to place where I wanted them.


----------



## TMatzelle60

HMMMM, Enthoo Pro or Pro M


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TMatzelle60*
> 
> HMMMM, Enthoo Pro or Pro M


enthoo pro is a much better value, enthoo pro M is a nice mid tower with good features.


----------



## TMatzelle60

Well do to space and stuff think I'm going to hit the Evolv ITX.


----------



## kimoswabi

Currently planning out a mITX build so for those wondering about video card sizing and radiator fitting options for custom watercooling on the Evolv ITX case, I thought I'd share my thoughts...


GTX 770 with EK GPU waterblock.


Video card 10.5" long/ 267mm.


EK - Coolstream XTX 240 Radiator: 64mm thick
EK - Coolstream PE 240 Radiator: 38mm thick


A _*VERY*_ tight fit with the XTX 240 rad.


The edge of the video card is actually touching the XTX radiator.


Slightly more room with the PE 240 radiator.




You have about 33mm clearnace between the video card and the PE 240 radiator.


Will two 240mm radiators fit in the Evolv ITX case?


It will *NOT* fit if you have the top 240mm rad ports facing the front of the case. Not enough clearance...


However, if you face the top rad ports facing the back of the case, you can fit dual 240mm rads in the case.
_*BUUUUT*_... No room for fans for the top rad in the main chamber.


PE 240 rad with X3 150 reservoir.

You can easily go with a 240mm in the front and 120mm/ 140mm on top which should be enough cooling for any mITX builds. If you want to maximize all radiator options, you can go:
240 front
120/ 140 top
120/ 140 rear

Going dual 240mm rad can be done but you will need to put on your creative thinking cap and consider possible case modifications.


----------



## KaffieneKing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kimoswabi*
> 
> Going dual 240mm rad can be done but you will need to put on your creative thinking cap and consider possible case modifications.


I don't own the case so this is purely hypothetical but you could remove the PSU and mount it in the front maybe and then put a 240mm in the bottom and the top?


----------



## FastRedPonyCar

My primo build is nearing completion. I finished up cable management last night. Took me about 3 hours to get the GPU power cables and sata power cables routed how I wanted them.

Only things left are the sata cable to the front panel and I'm trying to figure out what the 12V molex cable there is for??? Is it a power SOURCE? That's my assumption due to it being a female connector. I'm curious if it's getting the power from the SATA power connector that is there next to it?

Also haven't finished bundling up wires up there where the power switch and IO panel are.

Plenty more pics in my build log


----------



## dkevox

^^ It's a switched power supply. Yes it get's power from that SATA connector. The button on the top of the case switches power on/off to that molex connector. So it's to use with led strips.

If you look in the manual there is a max current rating for stuff powered off that molex connector. That same switch also controls power to all the case LEDs and the LED fans that come pre-installed in the case. There are extra 2-pin LED connectors available for more LED fans.

BTW, great job on the cabling, very neat.


----------



## Faster_is_better

Looks better than my cables

(lol this isn't finished yet)

*Here is a preview of my final loop layout though*


----------



## FastRedPonyCar

OK quick question. I got another 140mm phanteks LED fan (PH-F140SP) just like the ones on the front of the case but the small LED cable coming out of the fan can't even remotely reach the front of the case where the extra little 2 pin LED power cables are.

Do phanteks make like a 12 inch extension cable just for the fan LED?? Or am I going to have to bust out the wire strippers and make something myself?

I don't see anything on phanteks' website :/


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FastRedPonyCar*
> 
> OK quick question. I got another 140mm phanteks LED fan (PH-F140SP) just like the ones on the front of the case but the small LED cable coming out of the fan can't even remotely reach the front of the case where the extra little 2 pin LED power cables are.
> 
> Do phanteks make like a 12 inch extension cable just for the fan LED?? Or am I going to have to bust out the wire strippers and make something myself?
> 
> I don't see anything on phanteks' website :/


Bitfenix, among others makes them.


----------



## larainzlo07

Quick question for any Evolv microatx owners, what is the max width radiator that will fit in the front for a 240mm radiator?


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *larainzlo07*
> 
> Quick question for any Evolv microatx owners, what is the max width radiator that will fit in the front for a 240mm radiator?


Given that a 280 will fit, width isn't much of a worry with a 240.


----------



## dkevox

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Given that a 280 will fit, width isn't much of a worry with a 240.


ROFL, or maybe let's assume that he isn't wondering whether or not a 240 will fit, but instead what size of 240 will fit. Considering all 240s are about exactly the same size in 2 dimensions, his question about "width" probably refers to that 3rd dimension whose size is largely variable between radiators... whether you call it "width" or "depth" or "thickness"


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dkevox*
> 
> ROFL, or maybe let's assume that he isn't wondering whether or not a 240 will fit, but instead what size of 240 will fit. Considering all 240s are about exactly the same size in 2 dimensions, his question about "width" probably refers to that 3rd dimension whose size is largely variable between radiators... whether you call it "width" or "depth" or "thickness"


All the clearances are here.


----------



## larainzlo07

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> All the clearances are here.


The video is for a Evolv ATX, I am looking for info regarding the Evolv microatx but watched the video anyway to see if he mentions it.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dkevox*
> 
> ROFL, or maybe let's assume that he isn't wondering whether or not a 240 will fit, but instead what size of 240 will fit. Considering all 240s are about exactly the same size in 2 dimensions, his question about "width" probably refers to that 3rd dimension whose size is largely variable between radiators... whether you call it "width" or "depth" or "thickness"


Yes, I am looking for information regarding what size radiator will fit in between the part in red. (Note: used snip from evolv atx but same location is on the evolv microatx)



I normally use hardwarelabs and I have been trying to find completed watercooled rigs in the Evolv micro atx but haven't had much success. I just want to be sure that a radiator that is 133mm wide will fit. I planned on using 30mm thick rads.


----------



## pow3rtr1p

So after all this time, the Primo Aluminum is REALLY starting to catch my eye for my next build...

Some great builds, and great help, in this thread. Making this a tougher decision than I thought it would be, for sure.


----------



## marn3us

Hey guys, i'm really interested in buying an Enthoo Pro but i am usure about the maximum radiator dimensions i can use...

The manual states 420mm top and 280 front, is it possible with no optical bays?

Thanks


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *larainzlo07*
> 
> The video is for a Evolv ATX, I am looking for info regarding the Evolv microatx but watched the video anyway to see if he mentions it.
> 
> .


I need to stop posting from my phone....sorry about that.


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *larainzlo07*
> 
> Yes, I am looking for information regarding what size radiator will fit in between the part in red. (Note: used snip from evolv atx but same location is on the evolv microatx)
> 
> 
> 
> I normally use hardwarelabs and I have been trying to find completed watercooled rigs in the Evolv micro atx but haven't had much success. I just want to be sure that a radiator that is 133mm wide will fit. I planned on using 30mm thick rads.


you're good with the 133 mm width. there is no 240 rad that's wider than a 280 rad.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *marn3us*
> 
> Hey guys, i'm really interested in buying an Enthoo Pro but i am usure about the maximum radiator dimensions i can use...
> 
> The manual states 420mm top and 280 front, is it possible with no optical bays?
> 
> Thanks


the Enthoo pro hold a 420x30 mm rad (+25 mm fans) up top and any imaginable flavor of 240 rad in the bottom or front. can't hold 280's in either spot by default and can't hold two 240's together.


----------



## larainzlo07

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> I need to stop posting from my phone....sorry about that.


No worries
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PureBlackFire*
> 
> you're good with the 133 mm width. there is no 240 rad that's wider than a 280 rad.


Awesome thanks.


----------



## marn3us

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PureBlackFire*
> 
> you're good with the 133 mm width. there is no 240 rad that's wider than a 280 rad.
> the Enthoo pro hold a 420x30 mm rad (+25 mm fans) up top and any imaginable flavor of 240 rad in the bottom or front. can't hold 280's in either spot by default and can't hold two 240's together.


Thanks a lot for the info









Just three quick questions:
1- i have an alphacool UT60 240mm which is 60mm thick, does it fit in the front with push/pull?
2- 420x45mm for the top rad is a no-go then?
3- do i need to remove the rear fan in order to fit the 420 rad (with fittings on the back) or is it ok?

Thanks again


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *marn3us*
> 
> Thanks a lot for the info
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just three quick questions:
> 1- i have an alphacool UT60 240mm which is 60mm thick, does it fit in the front with push/pull?
> 2- 420x45mm for the top rad is a no-go then?
> 3- do i need to remove the rear fan in order to fit the 420 rad (with fittings on the back) or is it ok?
> 
> Thanks again


1 - yes, the UT60 will fit in the front in push/pull.
2 - afraid so. 45mm + 25mm = 70mm, and there is only 65 mm of space. if you plan on using a top rad thicker than ~38mm, do yourself a favor and buy the Luxe instead.
3 - nope, these cases have room for a 420 and it isn't super tight, at least not the length.


----------



## Duke976

Deleted.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dkevox*
> 
> ROFL, or maybe let's assume that he isn't wondering whether or not a 240 will fit, but instead what size of 240 will fit. Considering all 240s are about exactly the same size in 2 dimensions, his question about "width" probably refers to that 3rd dimension whose size is largely variable between radiators... whether you call it "width" or "depth" or "thickness"


Indeed.
The "Width x Height x Depth" labeling is not standardized at all. Air coolers use "width" for "depth" and "depth": for "width" .. often making is impossible to know which is which without looking a an actual 2D dimensional drawing.

I haven't looked at radiator measurements, but assume they are just as bad.


----------



## doyll

I've built my Enthoo Luxe (sorry, no pics yet) and am now testing fan placement and cooler combinations.

Components are
GA-X58A-UD5
Intel Core i7 980 @ 3.33GHz
12.0GB Triple-Channel DDR3 @ 666MHz (9-9-9-24)
ASUS GTX580 DirectCU II (w/ custom shroud using TY-100 fans)
Windows XP Professional SP3

So far the best cooling and noise levels are from
With HDD cages removed
2x 140mm front and 1x bottom iPH-F140SP intake fans
1x rear PH-F140SP exhaust fan
unused PCIe slot covers removed
open center caster base

Will post up data when I'm done.


----------



## TMatzelle60

With the Evolv ITX not having a 5.25" Drive bay how do you guys control the fans? ITX motherboards usually don't have a ton of fan headers.


----------



## KaffieneKing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TMatzelle60*
> 
> With the Evolv ITX not having a 5.25" Drive bay how do you guys control the fans? ITX motherboards usually don't have a ton of fan headers.


PWM fans and splitter is what I do for my ITX rig and my evolv mATX


----------



## Acquire

Anyone here have the Evolv ATX? I'm thinking of getting rid of my massive HAF X and downsizing. I really like how the Evolv looks. The concern is the cooling. I run dual gpus and will continue to do so. Right now I have two 780 Tis (msi gaming editions) and an i7 4790k. The plan would be to only use air cooling. One thing I'm curious about is if you can fit fans on the top of the top fan slide out (not on the bottom of it as I've seen). It seems like they should fit. I would ideally be able to do this and put white led fans up there to induce some kind of glow. I don't overclock or care about it much so I don't need an extreme cooling performance case. I just want one that can handle dual gpu setup with case exhausting gpu coolers and looks nice.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Acquire*
> 
> Anyone here have the Evolv ATX? I'm thinking of getting rid of my massive HAF X and downsizing. I really like how the Evolv looks. The concern is the cooling. I run dual gpus and will continue to do so. Right now I have two 780 Tis (msi gaming editions) and an i7 4790k. The plan would be to only use air cooling. One thing I'm curious about is if you can fit fans on the top of the top fan slide out (not on the bottom of it as I've seen). It seems like they should fit. I would ideally be able to do this and put white led fans up there to induce some kind of glow. I don't overclock or care about it much so I don't need an extreme cooling performance case. I just want one that can handle dual gpu setup with case exhausting gpu coolers and looks nice.


Fans will not fit above the tray without some modding. They will also be essentially against the top of the case, so they would be doing very little, if anything.


----------



## Kreuzer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TMatzelle60*
> 
> With the Evolv ITX not having a 5.25" Drive bay how do you guys control the fans? ITX motherboards usually don't have a ton of fan headers.


Here are some ideas.

1. PWM (Pulse Width Modulation) Fan Controller Hub.






2. Some fans have a speed control switch built in.






3. Using Phanteks 3.5" HDD Bracket with a 3.5" Fan Controller


----------



## zerophase

Anyone know of a tower stand that will hold the enthoo Primo? Ideally I'd like to find something I can wheel to my work bench that can lift the case up there with pneumatics. Two 480s filled with water gets a bit heavy.


----------



## RnRollie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zerophase*
> 
> Anyone know of a tower stand that will hold the enthoo Primo? Ideally I'd like to find something I can wheel to my work bench that can lift the case up there with pneumatics. Two 480s filled with water gets a bit heavy.


a mini forklift?

a hydraulic motorcycle bridge (similar to a hydraulic bridge for cars, but much smaller)?

block, tackle, A-frame ?


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zerophase*
> 
> Anyone know of a tower stand that will hold the enthoo Primo? Ideally I'd like to find something I can wheel to my work bench that can lift the case up there with pneumatics. Two 480s filled with water gets a bit heavy.


@doyll has shown off a few in this thread - maybe he would be kind enough to show them again. Pneumatics would need to be added.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RnRollie*
> 
> a mini forklift?
> 
> a hydraulic motorcycle bridge (similar to a hydraulic bridge for cars, but much smaller)?
> 
> block, tackle, A-frame ?


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TMatzelle60*
> 
> With the Evolv ITX not having a 5.25" Drive bay how do you guys control the fans? ITX motherboards usually don't have a ton of fan headers.


PWM splitter or hub like Gelid PWM splitter or Swiftech PWM fan hub work well for PWM fans using PWM signal from CPU fan header. Phanteks PWM controlled 3-pin hub works well using PWM signal to control 3-pin fans.

Just basic caster base with open center to allow airflow. No lift .. and no plans to make one with a lift. either.









Not my rig, just by base.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> PWM splitter or hub like Gelid PWM splitter or Swiftech PWM fan hub work well for PWM fans using PWM signal from CPU fan header. Phanteks PWM controlled 3-pin hub works well using PWM signal to control 3-pin fans.
> 
> Just basic caster base with open center to allow airflow. No lift .. and no plans to make one with a lift. either.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not my rig, just by base.


nice looking rig to though.....don't see many black and gold builds


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> nice looking rig to though.....don't see many black and gold builds


It's colinmcr\s build. He posts here occasionally. Link to his build log.


----------



## zerophase

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> @doyll has shown off a few in this thread - maybe he would be kind enough to show them again. Pneumatics would need to be added.


I was just hoping someone had made a computer stand, like In Win's H tower.


----------



## Faster_is_better

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *zerophase*
> 
> Anyone know of a tower stand that will hold the enthoo Primo? Ideally I'd like to find something I can wheel to my work bench that can lift the case up there with pneumatics. Two 480s filled with water gets a bit heavy.
> 
> 
> 
> @doyll has shown off a few in this thread - maybe he would be kind enough to show them again. Pneumatics would need to be added.
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *RnRollie*
> 
> a mini forklift?
> 
> a hydraulic motorcycle bridge (similar to a hydraulic bridge for cars, but much smaller)?
> 
> block, tackle, A-frame ?
> 
> Click to expand...
Click to expand...

lmao, I don't think mine will be moving much once its done.. I'm guessing 75-80lbs when full









Good thing the desk that it will live on, is halfway sturdy.


----------



## atizzle98

Hey guys I'm new to this site, and I have a phanteks enthoo pro case. So today I tried to saunter some red LEDs in the power button pcb (I had already pulled Out the white LEDs) and unfortunately only one works and it sometimes won't even turn on but the PC itself can still turn on and off. Anyone possibly know what I did wrong?


----------



## kimoswabi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TMatzelle60*
> 
> With the Evolv ITX not having a 5.25" Drive bay how do you guys control the fans? ITX motherboards usually don't have a ton of fan headers.


You can use one of these.

http://www.performance-pcs.com/swiftech-8-way-pwm-splitter-box-sata.html#Details


----------



## zerophase

I posted this in the Aquaero thread as well. Thought I'd check here as well in case anyone knows what's going on.

I'm having issues getting the Phanteks 3 pin fan to pwm splitter working with the Aquaero 6 xt. I have 5 fans plugged into it three are 3 pin, and two are pwm with the 3 pins on the key plugged in. Only 1 fan is in header 1 and it's one of the 3 pins.

The 8 way fan splitters on fan channel 1 and 2 work perfectly fine.

I tried going into the Aquaero and switching all fans from power to pwm control,and that didn't work. Any suggestions?


----------



## dkevox

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zerophase*
> 
> I posted this in the Aquaero thread as well. Thought I'd check here as well in case anyone knows what's going on.
> 
> I'm having issues getting the Phanteks 3 pin fan to pwm splitter working with the Aquaero 6 xt. I have 5 fans plugged into it three are 3 pin, and two are pwm with the 3 pins on the key plugged in. Only 1 fan is in header 1 and it's one of the 3 pins.
> 
> The 8 way fan splitters on fan channel 1 and 2 work perfectly fine.
> 
> I tried going into the Aquaero and switching all fans from power to pwm control,and that didn't work. Any suggestions?


So 2 of the fans are 4 pin PWM fans, but you only have 3 of the pins connected? That would be the problem as the 4th pin is the PWM signal from the motherboard (or aquaero in this case). As this pin isn't connected to anything, depending on the fans internal circuit it could simply operate thinking that the demand is for 0 rpms all the time. So you'll never see it turn on.

The best option would be to use a PWM splitter (like the swiftech linked 2 posts above) in line before the phantek PWM splitter. The phantek splitter takes a PWM signal and then outputs a varying voltage to the fans to control speed. So it operates fundamentally different.

So plug swiftech pwm hub into the aquaero, then connect the phanteks hub directly to one of the ports on the swiftech PWN hub. If you connect it to the first port, then whatever fan you connect to the first port of the phanteks will be the fan you get RPM information back from in the aquaero.


----------



## zerophase

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dkevox*
> 
> So 2 of the fans are 4 pin PWM fans, but you only have 3 of the pins connected? That would be the problem as the 4th pin is the PWM signal from the motherboard (or aquaero in this case). As this pin isn't connected to anything, depending on the fans internal circuit it could simply operate thinking that the demand is for 0 rpms all the time. So you'll never see it turn on.
> 
> The best option would be to use a PWM splitter (like the swiftech linked 2 posts above) in line before the phantek PWM splitter. The phantek splitter takes a PWM signal and then outputs a varying voltage to the fans to control speed. So it operates fundamentally different.
> 
> So plug swiftech pwm hub into the aquaero, then connect the phanteks hub directly to one of the ports on the swiftech PWN hub. If you connect it to the first port, then whatever fan you connect to the first port of the phanteks will be the fan you get RPM information back from in the aquaero.


Yeah, 2 of the 5 fans are pwm and are plugged in on their 3 pin connector. From what I've heard it's a bit iffy with the Phanteks hub. I'll order another swiftech splitter. I already have one for my pumps.

Think the hub will work, if I just remove the 4 pin fans from it?

Oh, you're referring to the 8 way pwm splitter from swiftech. I thought you meant the splitter cable. Ok, I'll move my 8 way splitter to the case and see if it works.


----------



## KaffieneKing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *atizzle98*
> 
> Hey guys I'm new to this site, and I have a phanteks enthoo pro case. So today I tried to saunter some red LEDs in the power button pcb (I had already pulled Out the white LEDs) and unfortunately only one works and it sometimes won't even turn on but the PC itself can still turn on and off. Anyone possibly know what I did wrong?


Wire it up to a fan header or molex instead much easier. GUIDE.


----------



## dkevox

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zerophase*
> 
> Yeah, 2 of the 5 fans are pwm and are plugged in on their 3 pin connector. From what I've heard it's a bit iffy with the Phanteks hub. I'll order another swiftech splitter. I already have one for my pumps.
> 
> Think the hub will work, if I just remove the 4 pin fans from it?
> 
> Oh, you're referring to the 8 way pwm splitter from swiftech. I thought you meant the splitter cable. Ok, I'll move my 8 way splitter to the case and see if it works.


thinking further:

If none of the fans were spinning before (including the 3-pin fans) this could be because the aquaero wasn't supplying enough power to drive all 5 fans. Did you have the optional sata power connector plugged into the phantek's pwm hub? One of the advantages of using the swiftech hub is that you plug power into that and then Aquaero wouldn't have to power any of the fans connected. The swiftech hub should easily be able to drive all 5 fans (even if 3 are connected through the phantek pwm hub).

So I would try it without SATA power connector to the phantek's hub first (after being connected through the swiftech hub). If the PWM fans spin up you know the aquaero and swiftech hub are working fine. But if the 3 pin fans still don't spin up then last step would be to connect the SATA power connector to the phantek's hub and try again. If it still doesn't work then you have a dead hub and will have to get a new one :/


----------



## zerophase

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dkevox*
> 
> thinking further:
> 
> If none of the fans were spinning before (including the 3-pin fans) this could be because the aquaero wasn't supplying enough power to drive all 5 fans. Did you have the optional sata power connector plugged into the phantek's pwm hub? One of the advantages of using the swiftech hub is that you plug power into that and then Aquaero wouldn't have to power any of the fans connected. The swiftech hub should easily be able to drive all 5 fans (even if 3 are connected through the phantek pwm hub).
> 
> So I would try it without SATA power connector to the phantek's hub first (after being connected through the swiftech hub). If the PWM fans spin up you know the aquaero and swiftech hub are working fine. But if the 3 pin fans still don't spin up then last step would be to connect the SATA power connector to the phantek's hub and try again. If it still doesn't work then you have a dead hub and will have to get a new one :/


So, I tried the Swiftech hub with the pwm fans plugged in, and the Phanteks hub with sata power and got no spinning up. Going to test without the Phanteks hub connected and see if any spinning happens.

Ok fans spin up without the Phanteks hub. Once I connect the hub the fans stop spinning. I'm going to test the hub to see if it works when plugged into the motherboard.


----------



## zerophase

Yeah, the Phanteks splitter only works on the motherboard. It's probably doing something that deviates from standard pwm.

Since, I can't use the stock fans with the fan controller, does anyone know of any good led pwm fans, and/or a slim fan that could fit in the gap between a rear mounted res?


----------



## Revan654

Is it worth putting fans on the HDD Cages? I do have 4 6TB WD Green Drives in their.

My Setup currently:

Front - 2x Noctua Industrial PWM 2000 (140mm)
Back - 2x Noctua Industrial PWM 2000 (140mm)
Top - NZXT Kraken X61 (Not sure if I should put it in push or push/pull, 140mm)
Bottom - 4x 2x Noctua Industrial PWM 2000 (120mm)

Will bring all the RPM down to 900 to 1000 RPM via Fan controller.


----------



## marn3us

Hi guys, i am about to get an Enthoo Pro but i would like to know if it's possible to remove the optical drive bay for more space while keeping the front panel connectivity (USB, audio etc)

Thanks in advance


----------



## Kreuzer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *marn3us*
> 
> Hi guys, i am about to get an Enthoo Pro but i would like to know if it's possible to remove the optical drive bay for more space while keeping the front panel connectivity (USB, audio etc)
> 
> Thanks in advance


I hope this helps.


----------



## marn3us

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kreuzer*
> 
> I hope this helps.


Thanks, i had already seen that video but couldn't understand if it was possible to do keep the front connectivity when removing the optical bay


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *marn3us*
> 
> Thanks, i had already seen that video but couldn't understand if it was possible to do keep the front connectivity when removing the optical bay


my optical bays are gone and I still have the front usb panel installed...however I left the backside panel of the optical bays to hold hard drives and facilitate the mounts I want for pump and res


----------



## marn3us

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> my optical bays are gone and I still have the front usb panel installed...however I left the backside panel of the optical bays to hold hard drives and facilitate the mounts I want for pump and res


Thank you very much for the info!









Could you please take a quick picture of what you mean by "back panel" so i get a better idea?

Thanks in advance


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *marn3us*
> 
> Thank you very much for the info!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Could you please take a quick picture of what you mean by "back panel" so i get a better idea?
> 
> Thanks in advance


yeah I can when I get home...another 4 hours or so


----------



## marn3us

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> yeah I can when I get home...another 4 hours or so


No problem, thanks!


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *marn3us*
> 
> No problem, thanks!


sorry I was thinking of the wrong thing mine is gone..it really opens up the real estate....mine looks like crap though haven't made mounts or epanded so....

Also the io panel attaches here
 so no worries there..


----------



## OGBeandip

Anyone have experience mounting a CEB form factor motherboard in the Primo?

I want to use the ASUS X99 WS but I am not sure if it will fit. It uses E ATX mounting.

Anyone done this or know if its possible?


----------



## zerophase

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OGBeandip*
> 
> Anyone have experience mounting a CEB form factor motherboard in the Primo?
> 
> I want to use the ASUS X99 WS but I am not sure if it will fit. It uses E ATX mounting.
> 
> Anyone done this or know if its possible?


The Primo supports eatx mounting. In the manual it mentions having to move the standoffs, but mine came with the eatx positions pre installed. The board just goes over the rubber grommets on the side a bit.


----------



## OGBeandip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zerophase*
> 
> The Primo supports eatx mounting. In the manual it mentions having to move the standoffs, but mine came with the eatx positions pre installed. The board just goes over the rubber grommets on the side a bit.


Do you have a picture?

I know it supports EATX. CEB is just a weird shape so I want to make sure everything lines up right. Its between EATX and ATX.


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OGBeandip*
> 
> Anyone have experience mounting a CEB form factor motherboard in the Primo?
> 
> I want to use the ASUS X99 WS but I am not sure if it will fit. It uses E ATX mounting.
> 
> Anyone done this or know if its possible?


it definitely fits in the Primo. I've seen a build with it in the Pro.


----------



## OGBeandip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PureBlackFire*
> 
> it definitely fits in the Primo. I've seen a build with it in the Pro.


Cool. Appreciate it. Just nervous after issues with my las MB


----------



## marn3us

Do you guys know whether an EK-XRES 100 D5 fits in the slot next to the pci-e under the rear fan or not?

Thanks in advance


----------



## DocHP

My Phanteks Evolv ITX case, re-painted in brown(!)









*Hardware:*
Intel 4690k
Gigabyte Z97n-wifi motherboard
2x4gb Corsair Vengeance (will be repainted also)
2x3TB drives + 240gb Kingston SSD
Radeon 6570 GPU, passive cooled. (It´s a workstation).
Corsair H100i cooler with Bitfenix Spectre PRO fans


----------



## flynna3162581

hi as a phanteks evolv itx virgin this is my first build in one.... i am looking to change it up a little bit.... as u can see there is a little gpu bracket... i was wondering can a EK 2.2 pump/res combo sit on the top of it with the lay out i have got ?? as i am looking to watercool/acrylic build in this some time in the near future ?? if any one can help would be greatly appreciated


----------



## rfarmer

2 nice looking Evolv iTX cases, nice to see.


----------



## flynna3162581

Rfarmer would a ek2.2 pump/res combo fit on the gpu bracket?


----------



## Yey09

Hi Guys! need some help, I'm planning to buy the Enthoo Luxe case but I want to make sure if my (L=460mm x W=153mm x H=29.6mm) Black Ice® GT Stealth 420 will fit on top? and at the same time I need to use the 3 external 5.25 bays for my Optical Drive and Bay reservoir?

And if possible to make a push-pull configuration? Currently running on 3 x NF-A14 iPPC-3000 PWM (140mm x 140mm x 25mm) Push only.


----------



## Kreuzer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DocHP*
> 
> My Phanteks Evolv ITX case, re-painted in brown(!)


Did you use Plasti Dip?


----------



## DocHP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kreuzer*
> 
> Did you use Plasti Dip?


Noo, regular car paint. It´s a Audi colour. (Beluga Brown metallic)


----------



## Kreuzer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DocHP*
> 
> Noo, regular car paint. It´s a Audi colour. (Beluga Brown metallic)


Nice color, reminds me of my two tone RC car.


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Yey09*
> 
> Hi Guys! need some help, I'm planning to buy the Enthoo Luxe case but I want to make sure if my (L=460mm x W=153mm x H=29.6mm) Black Ice® GT Stealth 420 will fit on top? and at the same time I need to use the 3 external 5.25 bays for my Optical Drive and Bay reservoir?
> 
> And if possible to make a push-pull configuration? Currently running on 3 x NF-A14 iPPC-3000 PWM (140mm x 140mm x 25mm) Push only.


AFAIK that radiator is too wide for the 5.25" bays in the Luxe and most other cases. Some cutting may be required.


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *flynna3162581*
> 
> Rfarmer would a ek2.2 pump/res combo fit on the gpu bracket?


From looking at it I would guess yes, it is very compact. But I do not know for sure, sorry.


----------



## TMatzelle60

Should i run Static pressure fans with the Evolv ITX because of the limited air flow going into the front and top vents?


----------



## Kreuzer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TMatzelle60*
> 
> Should i run Static pressure fans with the Evolv ITX because of the limited air flow going into the front and top vents?


That will depend on your setup.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TMatzelle60*
> 
> Should i run Static pressure fans with the Evolv ITX because of the limited air flow going into the front and top vents?


What issues are you experiencing with the stock fans?


----------



## rfarmer

Evol-itx only comes with the 200mm front fan, I am guessing he is looking at additional fans.


----------



## TMatzelle60

Don't Like the 200MM looking at getting noise blocker black fans. or noise blocker e-loops


----------



## dkevox

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kreuzer*
> 
> Nice color, reminds me of my two tone RC car.


Your RC car has my cars wheels!!


----------



## Ironsmack

Well, if you have limited airflow in your case - i dont see why you cant use SP fans.


----------



## TMatzelle60

Well the Evolv ITX idk if you know what it looks like there is not a lot of vents for air


----------



## Yey09

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PureBlackFire*
> 
> AFAIK that radiator is too wide for the 5.25" bays in the Luxe and most other cases. Some cutting may be required.


How about the Enthoo Primo?


----------



## Lanvin

Does the Pro / Luxe / Evolv ATX cases have good airflow? Planning to switch to a Phanteks case. I'll be running dual non-reference 980tis in there.


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Yey09*
> 
> How about the Enthoo Primo?


Not sure about the width in total but if using 480 rads for example you will have troubles with anything beyond standard width in the bottom at least due to the space constraints of the bay cover. I am unsure about the top of hte case though, but I can measure some for you if you are really wondering.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lanvin*
> 
> Does the Pro / Luxe / Evolv ATX cases have good airflow? Planning to switch to a Phanteks case. I'll be running dual non-reference 980tis in there.


I wouldn't say the Evolv ATX has particularily good air flow, but it's decent I guess. The Pro has least constraints in regards to flow of the cases that you mentioned, then I would say the luxe is less constrained than the Evolv and as mentioned the evolv is less optimal in that regard of the mentioned cases. That said, all of them will very likely deliver enough for the proposed build, but expect better temps in the Pro than the others (I'm just guessing). With that in mind though, more grills usually means a more noisy case as well so it's all about take and give I guess.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TMatzelle60*
> 
> Should i run Static pressure fans with the Evolv ITX because of the limited air flow going into the front and top vents?


I use "static pressure" fans for everything. .. almost.

The better the pressure rated fan of fans with same cfm rating will flow more air. Reason is simple.
CFM rating is free air rating .. no resistance (no grill, no filter, nothing but open air).
Static pressure rating is the maximum pressure reached before fan stops moving air.
The higher this is, the more air this fan can move.
With few exceptions I never believe published specifications. They are usually figments of someone's imagination.
Here are two fans with 1.1mmH2O spec with one moving 18.6cfm more air @1.0mmH2O.. even though one is spec'ed at same pressure and 1.7cfm less airflow.. Lower spec'ed is moving 7.2 times as much air.










I have the P-Q graph too If you want to see it.


----------



## RnRollie

this^^^^
listen to doyll on this subject


----------



## Kutalion

Hello guys. I currently posses CM Storm Stryker case, and i added another "hdd cage" on which a 120mm fan is mounted. So i got 3x 120mm fans in front, throughout the whole height of the case. Also there is absolutely no resistance behind it, clear path to the gpu/cpu.



Performance/airflow wise, is it worth going for Enthoo Luxe? My main reason is better watercooling options, but i'm really unhappy about all the useless (for me) 5.25 bays and lack of ability to put fans in front through whole height of the case. Also that giant plate on the front intake is.. well, meh. I know i can remove it, tho it would loook a bit ugly due to pillars staying in.

Did anybody go from stryker/trooper to Enthoo Luxe/pro and thought it was worth it?


----------



## PhantomTaco

Hey guys I've got a question for Evolv ITX owners: Do any of you know whether or not the case can support a 2.5 slot GPU like a HOF? I know it has 2 slots on it, but it seems to have some extra clearance to it.


----------



## zerophase

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Yey09*
> 
> How about the Enthoo Primo?


I managed to fit an EK coolstream xe 480 radiator in the top and bottom of the Primo. I just had to unscrew the sheet of metal with the Phanteks plate to install them, and could barely slide it back in when done.


----------



## johnaly7

Hi guys new here ! I was reading through your posts, very helpful and interesting stuff !!! I got my enthoo in white, for a change from the black various cases ive had.... So i did a Full AMD build on my primo, but to be honest just seemed empty ! So i Changed to a full 480 XSPC quad rad , with nocuta NFF12's cooling a intel i7 5930K, with an EVGA GTX980ti combi fan and rad installation, that fills it up a little bit more ! Perfect case ! NOW with my question, In the first build everything worked perfectly ! All the LED's went up like an xmas tree ! but on the second build after i did everything identical the LED's wont turn on ! LAst i remembered the LED's took power from the PLED+ and - right ? The power LED is working great, the little white strip and concecutive fan LED's arent ! did i pull a cable out i shouldnt have ? Am i missing something stupid , where does your led's power from ?????

Anyways cheers guys !


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PhantomTaco*
> 
> Hey guys I've got a question for Evolv ITX owners: Do any of you know whether or not the case can support a 2.5 slot GPU like a HOF? I know it has 2 slots on it, but it seems to have some extra clearance to it.


Possibly, although it will be snug and your card will sit right on top of the psu cover. Looks like about 1/4" from the bottom of my card to the psu cover.


----------



## PhantomTaco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rfarmer*
> 
> Possibly, although it will be snug and your card will sit right on top of the psu cover. Looks like about 1/4" from the bottom of my card to the psu cover.


Thanks for the info. I figured it would be close at best. Kinda sucks because I do like the case, but I'd end up starved for exhaust/airflow with my hof.


----------



## Faster_is_better

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *johnaly7*
> 
> Hi guys new here ! I was reading through your posts, very helpful and interesting stuff !!! I got my enthoo in white, for a change from the black various cases ive had.... So i did a Full AMD build on my primo, but to be honest just seemed empty ! So i Changed to a full 480 XSPC quad rad , with nocuta NFF12's cooling a intel i7 5930K, with an EVGA GTX980ti combi fan and rad installation, that fills it up a little bit more ! Perfect case ! NOW with my question, In the first build everything worked perfectly ! All the LED's went up like an xmas tree ! but on the second build after i did everything identical the LED's wont turn on ! LAst i remembered the LED's took power from the PLED+ and - right ? The power LED is working great, the little white strip and concecutive fan LED's arent ! did i pull a cable out i shouldnt have ? Am i missing something stupid , where does your led's power from ?????
> 
> Anyways cheers guys !


Nope, the PLED single pins plug into motherboard, that only gives signal to power led so that it blinks. You have to plug in a molex/sata power connector up at the top from the backside, that gives power to all the system LEDs and light bars. Check out your manual it says which to plug in, also your wires may even be tagged with little stickers that say what they do.


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *johnaly7*
> 
> Hi guys new here ! I was reading through your posts, very helpful and interesting stuff !!! I got my enthoo in white, for a change from the black various cases ive had.... So i did a Full AMD build on my primo, but to be honest just seemed empty ! So i Changed to a full 480 XSPC quad rad , with nocuta NFF12's cooling a intel i7 5930K, with an EVGA GTX980ti combi fan and rad installation, that fills it up a little bit more ! Perfect case ! NOW with my question, In the first build everything worked perfectly ! All the LED's went up like an xmas tree ! but on the second build after i did everything identical the LED's wont turn on ! LAst i remembered the LED's took power from the PLED+ and - right ? The power LED is working great, the little white strip and concecutive fan LED's arent ! did i pull a cable out i shouldnt have ? Am i missing something stupid , where does your led's power from ?????
> 
> Anyways cheers guys !


The fan leds does not draw power from the power LED on the MB, they draw power fromt eh LED hub that control the LED strips on the outside of teh case (the white strips going on the right side of the case (looking at the front) fromt he front and along the top). This LED hub draws power from an SATA power connector and you can turn them on and off with the button on top of the case (placed next to the restart button).

Edit: @Faster_is_better Beat me to the punch line







(forgot to refresh thread







)


----------



## johnaly7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Faster_is_better*
> 
> Nope, the PLED single pins plug into motherboard, that only gives signal to power led so that it blinks. You have to plug in a molex/sata power connector up at the top from the backside, that gives power to all the system LEDs and light bars. Check out your manual it says which to plug in, also your wires may even be tagged with little stickers that say what they do.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> The fan leds does not draw power from the power LED on the MB, they draw power fromt eh LED hub that control the LED strips on the outside of teh case (the white strips going on the right side of the case (looking at the front) fromt he front and along the top). This LED hub draws power from an SATA power connector and you can turn them on and off with the button on top of the case (placed next to the restart button).
> 
> Edit: @Faster_is_better Beat me to the punch line
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (forgot to refresh thread
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )


Guys I cant believe i was that stupid (ok at least i can say that the connector was hidden quite well) !!!! Ill be honest with you though i cant remember plugging that in the first time ! Anyways !!!!!! Thanks alot guys ! you saved the day for me !!!! reps to both of you !!!!


----------



## Lanvin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> I wouldn't say the Evolv ATX has particularily good air flow, but it's decent I guess. The Pro has least constraints in regards to flow of the cases that you mentioned, then I would say the luxe is less constrained than the Evolv and as mentioned the evolv is less optimal in that regard of the mentioned cases. That said, all of them will very likely deliver enough for the proposed build, but expect better temps in the Pro than the others (I'm just guessing). With that in mind though, more grills usually means a more noisy case as well so it's all about take and give I guess.


Thanks for the feedback. I'm currently using a carbide air 540. I think that's gonna be hard to beat it air-cooling wise.

But the phanteks are so purdy, makes me wanna change.


----------



## dkevox

^^ lawls.

I was really hoping the outcome was going to be "oh, there's a switch on the top!"


----------



## marn3us

Has anybody managed to fit a 280mm rad in the front of an Enthoo Pro?


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *marn3us*
> 
> Has anybody managed to fit a 280mm rad in the front of an Enthoo Pro?


yea, with the 5.25" bays removed


----------



## TMatzelle60

I wonder if the new All in One 240mm EK Predator will fit in the Evolv ITX

http://www.performance-pcs.com/ek-xlc-predator-240-all-in-one-liquid-cooler.html


----------



## marn3us

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PureBlackFire*
> 
> yea, with the 5.25" bays removed


I will remove 5,25" for sure as well









Did you have to drill holes to fit the 280 rad in the front?


----------



## FastRedPonyCar

My build is done! See sig for build thread



Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FastRedPonyCar*
> 
> My build is done! See sig for build thread
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


nice....I'm jealous


----------



## By-Tor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FastRedPonyCar*
> 
> My build is done! See sig for build thread
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Very nice....
Close to what I did..

http://www.overclock.net/t/1557043/my-phanteks-enthoo-primo-build


----------



## OGBeandip

Im doing the LED mod on the primo and I just wanted to check. The LEDs should face down towards the clear plastic right? Not facing up towards the cover panel?


----------



## maskymus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OGBeandip*
> 
> Im doing the LED mod on the primo and I just wanted to check. The LEDs should face down towards the clear plastic right? Not facing up towards the cover panel?


Yes, PCB up, leds facing the clear plastic.


----------



## OGBeandip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *maskymus*
> 
> Yes, PCB up, leds facing the clear plastic.


Thought so. Thanks.


----------



## dkevox

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FastRedPonyCar*
> 
> My build is done! See sig for build thread
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Amazing man! That wiring in the back is just awesome. And the color matching. LOVE the 3M CF highlights.

What foam did you use for sound deadening?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *By-Tor*
> 
> Very nice....
> Close to what I did..
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1557043/my-phanteks-enthoo-primo-build


nice dude. Primo was my first case upgrade in 10 years so I know how nice it is to move into something new and properly designed for water-cooling.


----------



## FastRedPonyCar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dkevox*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *FastRedPonyCar*
> 
> My build is done! See sig for build thread
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Amazing man! That wiring in the back is just awesome. And the color matching. LOVE the 3M CF highlights.
> 
> What foam did you use for sound deadening?
Click to expand...

I grabbed this stuff

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0007XFBE0

I also used some of the silverstone stuff but in comparison to the sonic barrier, it's cheap, thin and rips easily. I would not recommend the silverstone material unless you need it in a very tight space where you can't use the extra thickness of the material.

The sonic barrier is strong enough that you can pull up and re-stick if you don't get it lined up just right the first time. Silverstone will rip like tissue paper.


----------



## ITAngel

Hi guys, I order the Enthoo Pro last night as I had a hard time choosing between the Air 540 cube case which I did own before and licked versus this Enthoo Pro. I hope is as good as everyone makes it sound and give me some future options when I am ready to water cool. For now I will run the Noctua D15 in that case, there should be more than enough room right?


----------



## sickenedvendetta

So I have the Phantek Enthoo Luxe case on order and it is soon to arrive. However, I'm struggling with what PSU I should buy. I'm basing it off of two criteria: Power requirement and dimensions. I'm looking at anywhere between 900-1100W with the rig I'm building (I intend to overclock CPU, GPU, and RAM).

To narrow the PSU selection down even further, I'd like to ask any owner of the Enthoo Luxe to provide the approximate PSU shroud dimensions. I've scoured the internetz to no avail. Anyone that could do the courtesy and bust out a measuring tape for me to find the dimension of the PSU shroud, I'd greatly appreciate it.

Thanks in advance for any response!


----------



## ITAngel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sickenedvendetta*
> 
> So I have the Phantek Enthoo Luxe case on order and it is soon to arrive. However, I'm struggling with what PSU I should buy. I'm basing it off of two criteria: Power requirement and dimensions. I'm looking at anywhere between 900-1100W with the rig I'm building (I intend to overclock CPU, GPU, and RAM).
> 
> To narrow the PSU selection down even further, I'd like to ask any owner of the Enthoo Luxe to provide the approximate PSU shroud dimensions. I've scoured the internetz to no avail. Anyone that could do the courtesy and bust out a measuring tape for me to find the dimension of the PSU shroud, I'd greatly appreciate it.
> 
> Thanks in advance for any response!


Hey base on the specs it seems that you can use a EVGA SuperNOVA 1000G2 1000W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply on the Phanteks Enthoo Luxe ATX Full Tower Case. I think I saw a few build with it around when looking for the Pro case for me. I will be getting that same PSU for my case and I have the Pro version which I think is a bit smaller than the Luxe. Might want to take a look there and I did own the that power supply before. It felt very nice and high end, plus it comes with 10 years warranty.









Someone here has that unit on the pro version you can see; http://www.overclock.net/t/1418637/official-case-phanteks-case-club-for-lovers-owners/4500

Update:
I found this here talking about issue lining up the holes on the EVGA SuperNOVA on the Luxe case. Is there someone here that is using the SuperNova on the Luxe or Pro version? Let us know if this is an issue or not. Thanks.

http://linustechtips.com/main/topic/413251-evga-supernova-g2-doesnt-fit-in-phanteks-enthoo-luxe/


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sickenedvendetta*
> 
> So I have the Phantek Enthoo Luxe case on order and it is soon to arrive. However, I'm struggling with what PSU I should buy. I'm basing it off of two criteria: Power requirement and dimensions. I'm looking at anywhere between 900-1100W with the rig I'm building (I intend to overclock CPU, GPU, and RAM).
> 
> To narrow the PSU selection down even further, I'd like to ask any owner of the Enthoo Luxe to provide the approximate PSU shroud dimensions. I've scoured the internetz to no avail. Anyone that could do the courtesy and bust out a measuring tape for me to find the dimension of the PSU shroud, I'd greatly appreciate it.
> 
> Thanks in advance for any response!


what hardware are you using and where are you buying from? I can probably point out a good psu for your needs. as for the PSU shroud, it's 329 mm or just uner 13 inches long.


----------



## sickenedvendetta

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ITAngel*
> 
> Hey base on the specs it seems that you can use a EVGA SuperNOVA 1000G2 1000W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply on the Phanteks Enthoo Luxe ATX Full Tower Case. I think I saw a few build with it around when looking for the Pro case for me. I will be getting that same PSU for my case and I have the Pro version which I think is a bit smaller than the Luxe. Might want to take a look there and I did own the that power supply before. It felt very nice and high end, plus it comes with 10 years warranty.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Someone here has that unit on the pro version you can see; http://www.overclock.net/t/1418637/official-case-phanteks-case-club-for-lovers-owners/4500


Thanks for the quick reply! I was looking around and EVGA 1000W and less do fit. I was hoping I could pop in a Corsair HXi High Performance ATX12V 1200 which has dimensions of 15.4 x 8.8 x 6 inches (LxWxH) or 391.16 x 223.52 x 152.4 mm for you non-American heathens! (I kid, I kid! Haha!). And seeing if I can fit it under the nice shroud that comes with the Enthoo Luxe. If I can get exact dimensions, then I can finally see my hopes crushed lol!


----------



## sickenedvendetta

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PureBlackFire*
> 
> what hardware are you using and where are you buying from? I can probably point out a good psu for your needs. as for the PSU shroud, it's 329 mm or just uner 13 inches long.


Awesome quick shots of the shroud! Thankya for posting that! I guess my concern is the depth and height too. As I replied to an earlier post, I was looking at the Corsair HX1200i cause reasons! Haha! Trying to ensure I don't draw too much power overclocking so I went safe with 1200W. I think I could settle for 1000W too.


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sickenedvendetta*
> 
> Thanks for the quick reply! I was looking around and EVGA 1000W and less do fit. I was hoping I could pop in a Corsair HXi High Performance ATX12V 1200 which has dimensions of 15.4 x 8.8 x 6 inches (LxWxH) or 391.16 x 223.52 x 152.4 mm for you non-American heathens! (I kid, I kid! Haha!). And seeing if I can fit it under the nice shroud that comes with the Enthoo Luxe. If I can get exact dimensions, then I can finally see my hopes crushed lol!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sickenedvendetta*
> 
> Awesome quick shots of the shroud! Thankya for posting that! I guess my concern is the depth and height too. As I replied to an earlier post, I was looking at the Corsair HX1200i cause reasons! Haha! Trying to ensure I don't draw too much power overclocking so I went safe with 1200W. I think I could settle for 1000W too.


you're welcome. with regard to the psu, it all depends on what hardware you're going to be running. as for the HX1200i, it doesn't exist. either you mean HX1000i (would choose a few others over this one, one from corsair themselves) or AX1200i. in either case, neither present a size issue in this case. the AX1299i is 200 mm long and 86 mm tall. I've measured before and there is about 87-88 mm clearance under the psu shroud.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

I'm using the rosewill photon 1200 watt and it fits under the shroud though I don't use the shroud due to radiator in the bottom with it


----------



## sickenedvendetta

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PureBlackFire*
> 
> you're welcome. with regard to the psu, it all depends on what hardware you're going to be running. as for the HX1200i, it doesn't exist. either you mean HX1000i (would choose a few others over this one, one from corsair themselves) or AX1200i. in either case, neither present a size issue in this case. the AX1299i is 200 mm long and 86 mm tall. I've measured before and there is about 87-88 mm clearance under the psu shroud.


Hey brother, I was looking on amazon and found the following, it has HX1200i on the side of it...could just be the picture:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00U6GTONM?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_

I thought the same thing you did until a friend of mine showed me that link.

It has the following dimensions:15.4 x 8.8 x 6 inches. So my concern is if the PSU shroud on the Phantek Enthoo will fit it.


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sickenedvendetta*
> 
> Hey brother, I was looking on amazon and found the following, it has HX1200i on the side of it...could just be the picture:
> [LINK]http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00U6GTONM?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_[/LINK]
> 
> I thought the same thing you did until a friend of mine showed me that link.
> 
> It has the following dimensions:15.4 x 8.8 x 6 inches. So my concern is if the PSU shroud on the Phantek Enthoo will fit it.




yea, it will fit. but this psu is a better buy at that price.


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PureBlackFire*
> 
> Hey brother, I was looking on amazon and found the following, it has HX1200i on the side of it...could just be the picture:
> [LINK]http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00U6GTONM?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_[/LINK]
> 
> I thought the same thing you did until a friend of mine showed me that link.
> 
> It has the following dimensions:15.4 x 8.8 x 6 inches. So my concern is if the PSU shroud on the Phantek Enthoo will fit it.




yea, it will fit. they didn't mass produce cases with psu covers that have compatibility issues with widely available power supplies, much less from the most popular name in the business. but this psu is a better buy at that price.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PureBlackFire*
> 
> 
> 
> yea, it will fit. they didn't mass produce cases with psu covers that have compatibility issues with widely available power supplies, much less from the most popular name in the business. but this psu is a better buy at that price.


Agreed. It is pretty much impossible to beat EVGA PSUs these days. Top quality and great cables.


----------



## rck1984

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Agreed. It is pretty much impossible to beat EVGA PSUs these days. Top quality and great cables.


Take a look at Super Flower, since these EVGA PSU's are actually Super Flower's but you probably knew that already


----------



## MrKoala

Availability in the western market is often a problem though.


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rck1984*
> 
> Take a look at Super Flower, since these EVGA PSU's are actually Super Flower's but you probably knew that already


no point looking at superflower outside of the 1600 watt. besides, availablility is not good.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Ok so a pretty weird thing happened. I had a tube (Tygon E-1000) pushed up against my window by my sleeved extenders coming from my GPUs. I don't know why I left it like that as I easily have the extenders placed on the outside now and nothing is touching.

At any rate-even though I don't appear to have heat issues and I can't imaging my loop gets that warm-the damn thing actually melted a large, deep nick into the acrylic. I want to replace this smoked crap anyway, but damn...


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> Ok so a pretty weird thing happened. I had a tube (Tygon E-1000) pushed up against my window by my sleeved extenders coming from my GPUs. I don't know why I left it like that as I easily have the extenders placed on the outside now and nothing is touching.
> 
> At any rate-even though I don't appear to have heat issues and I can't imaging my loop gets that warm-the damn thing actually melted a large, deep nick into the acrylic. I want to replace this smoked crap anyway, but damn...


depending om what material the window and the tube is made from you may simply have a chemical reaction. Sort of like acrylic meling when exposed to alcohol, maybe he tygon tubing is petroleum based? Which in turn may react with the acrylic. No clue what the fault is here but it sure sounds like a chemical reaction.


----------



## brazilianloser

Parts slowly coming in. Hopefully joining the club soon.


----------



## dkevox

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> Ok so a pretty weird thing happened. I had a tube (Tygon E-1000) pushed up against my window by my sleeved extenders coming from my GPUs. I don't know why I left it like that as I easily have the extenders placed on the outside now and nothing is touching.
> 
> At any rate-even though I don't appear to have heat issues and I can't imaging my loop gets that warm-the damn thing actually melted a large, deep nick into the acrylic. I want to replace this smoked crap anyway, but damn...


got any pics?? I wanna see this!


----------



## RnRollie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> Ok so a pretty weird thing happened. I had a tube (Tygon E-1000) pushed up against my window by my sleeved extenders coming from my GPUs. I don't know why I left it like that as I easily have the extenders placed on the outside now and nothing is touching.
> 
> At any rate-even though I don't appear to have heat issues and I can't imaging my loop gets that warm-the damn thing actually melted a large, deep nick into the acrylic. I want to replace this smoked crap anyway, but damn...


Given that PMMA normally melts at 160°C....

but yeah, i accept that at 2mm thick it could start to deform at +50°C (normally it should keep its shape till 75°C)


----------



## zerophase

One of my 120mm radiator fans on the bottom of the case is vibrating very loudly. It's in an Enthoo Primo between the area where the fan grill honey comb turns to solid metal, before going back to honey comb. Have any ideas for stopping it from vibrating?


----------



## RnRollie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zerophase*
> 
> One of my 120mm radiator fans on the bottom of the case is vibrating very loudly. It's in an Enthoo Primo between the area where the fan grill honey comb turns to solid metal, before going back to honey comb. Have any ideas for stopping it from vibrating?


Yeah, replace the fan.


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zerophase*
> 
> One of my 120mm radiator fans on the bottom of the case is vibrating very loudly. It's in an Enthoo Primo between the area where the fan grill honey comb turns to solid metal, before going back to honey comb. Have any ideas for stopping it from vibrating?


If the fan is broken the yes, do as @RnRollie suggested, replace it. However of you can dismount the fan and run it outside of the case without it making vibrating noises then maybe something like rubber o-rings can be a solution for you. Simply put, you put a rubber o-ring on the screw between the fan and the honeycomb, at the very least it will reduce vibrations and as a plus's it will distance the blades a bit from the honeycomb, which in turn would fix a problem that many fans have namely that the blades distance them selves from the frame because the blades are not locked entirely on the engine rod.


----------



## zerophase

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> If the fan is broken the yes, do as @RnRollie suggested, replace it. However of you can dismount the fan and run it outside of the case without it making vibrating noises then maybe something like rubber o-rings can be a solution for you. Simply put, you put a rubber o-ring on the screw between the fan and the honeycomb, at the very least it will reduce vibrations and as a plus's it will distance the blades a bit from the honeycomb, which in turn would fix a problem that many fans have namely that the blades distance them selves from the frame because the blades are not locked entirely on the engine rod.


Thanks, here's the fan in question. I tightened the screw down a bit and it seemed to help. Still makes a grinding sound.


It's the 3rd fan from the left.

Here's the sound it makes. 




Think it's. That the screws hit against the plastic brace or that it's too loose?


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zerophase*
> 
> Thanks, here's the fan in question. I tightened the screw down a bit and it seemed to help. Still makes a grinding sound.
> 
> 
> It's the 3rd fan from the left.
> 
> Here's the sound it makes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Think it's. That the screws hit against the plastic brace or that it's too loose?


To be honest, I really don't think that has anything to do with vibrations (although I could be wrong), to me it sounds a lot like something is touching the fan blades so they are grinding against it constantly while running. I would take the fan out and check, hopefully you have flexible tubing which will make that a lot easier. Don't know what else to say really, it may be vibrations in which case ruber gaskets is always a good idea. If it's grinding against something though... well you may have bigger problems than just a bad noise (if the fan blades grind against something you are essentially grinding them down at that spot). Maybe a screw got lodged in with the fan blades somehow?


----------



## RnRollie

Didnt those XSPC come with gaskets?
http://www.performance-pcs.com/xspc-360mm-radiator-gasket.html

Alternative: something like this: http://www.homedepot.com/p/Frost-King-E-O-5-16-in-x-1-4-in-x-17-ft-Black-EPDM-Rubber-Weatherstrip-Tape-V25BK/202844545


----------



## zerophase

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> To be honest, I really don't think that has anything to do with vibrations (although I could be wrong), to me it sounds a lot like something is touching the fan blades so they are grinding against it constantly while running. I would take the fan out and check, hopefully you have flexible tubing which will make that a lot easier. Don't know what else to say really, it may be vibrations in which case ruber gaskets is always a good idea. If it's grinding against something though... well you may have bigger problems than just a bad noise (if the fan blades grind against something you are essentially grinding them down at that spot). Maybe a screw got lodged in with the fan blades somehow?


I see it now. It looks like one of the fan cables is between the fan and radiator.


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zerophase*
> 
> I see it now. It looks like one of the fan cables is between the fan and radiator.


Sounds far more plausible than vibrations, if the sound doesn't go away when removing it then we may start looking at other alternatives. At ny rate it's good that it was the fan wire and not something that could do serious damage to those expensive fans of yours. ?


----------



## RnRollie

hmm grinding off the insulation of the wire might not be harmless








But yeah, a misplaced wire is better as an unbalanced fan... an unbalanced fan *might* still work if you change its orientation (eg run it vertical iso horizontal), but eventually turns into a paperweight or an art project









Ah, 2015... and we still dont have wireless (induction) powered devices ...
Tesla, why couldn't you convince more people to fund your projects?
And for that matter, while we're on the subject.. Where are the flying cars, private helicopter/rocketship, nobody needing to work because of robots, and where is the holiday home on the Mars colonies we've been promised in the '50s ?


----------



## dman811

I was hoping life would be something similar to The Jetson's by now.


----------



## tatmMRKIV

where are organic computers or carbon based electronics. I wannna see that.. or mechs
exoskeleton suits.. what about robot arms?

carbon based electronics are gonna be awesome though. 2000x more electrically conductive than copper


----------



## zerophase

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> Sounds far more plausible than vibrations, if the sound doesn't go away when removing it then we may start looking at other alternatives. At ny rate it's good that it was the fan wire and not something that could do serious damage to those expensive fans of yours. ?


Well, I managed to wiggle the wire out so it no longer makes contact with the blades. When I add a 980ti to the loop, I'll get the wire out all the way.


----------



## SomeShow

I'm looking at buying the Enthoo Primo and putting an XSPC Photon 170 Pump/Res on the plate but the GPU I plan on buying, the GIGABYTE G1 980 Ti seems too large. It says 11.61" on the specs although I'm not sure how much of that is the shroud/heatsink. I'd be alright with fashioning some extra plate so that I can mount it there if it means shifting it over a little. Worst case scenario I just mount it down in the HDD cage area.


----------



## Faster_is_better

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SomeShow*
> 
> I'm looking at buying the Enthoo Primo and putting an XSPC Photon 170 Pump/Res on the plate but the GPU I plan on buying, the GIGABYTE G1 980 Ti seems too large. It says 11.61" on the specs although I'm not sure how much of that is the shroud/heatsink. I'd be alright with fashioning some extra plate so that I can mount it there if it means shifting it over a little. Worst case scenario I just mount it down in the HDD cage area.


It would be really close, my card's are 10.5" to end of PCB and look how close it is to the bracket.

Actually I think that card may be to long, unless you modify the bracket.


----------



## dkevox

Pretty sure all 980ti's use the reference design. I'm running dual 980ti's without issues.

It's close. But clears my frozenq liquid fusion reservoir.


----------



## SomeShow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Faster_is_better*
> 
> It would be really close, my card's are 10.5" to end of PCB and look how close it is to the bracket.
> 
> Actually I think that card may be to long, unless you modify the bracket.


I'd be alright with modifying it if I can make it fit there. Is that the hard drive cage pushed towards the back of the case?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dkevox*
> 
> Pretty sure all 980ti's use the reference design. I'm running dual 980ti's without issues.
> 
> It's close. But clears my frozenq liquid fusion reservoir.


The XSPC Photon 170 is about 15mm wide in diameter than that reservoir it seems. Looks like I'll definitely have to mod the bracket to make it fit somehow.


----------



## SirJim

RE: Phanteks Enthoo Luxe:

From everything I have read, it would appear that Phanteks is listening to their customers. I just received my Enthoo Luxe and was surprised to see that the plastic panel had a plastic cover not only on the outside but now on the inside. The accessory box was strapped in using 2 wire ties and it was done well so it would not break loose inside the case during shipping. Not sure about this one but both SSD brackets were installed already and not in the accessory box like I thought they would be.
Just my observation and it's great to see a company listen to the customer and make changes as needed. I'll be very busy this weekend setting things up. Moving from an Antec 902 to the Luxe.


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SirJim*
> 
> RE: Phanteks Enthoo Luxe:
> 
> From everything I have read, it would appear that Phanteks is listening to their customers. I just received my Enthoo Luxe and was surprised to see that the plastic panel had a plastic cover not only on the outside but now on the inside. The accessory box was strapped in using 2 wire ties and it was done well so it would not break loose inside the case during shipping. Not sure about this one but both SSD brackets were installed already and not in the accessory box like I thought they would be.
> Just my observation and it's great to see a company listen to the customer and make changes as needed. I'll be very busy this weekend setting things up. Moving from an Antec 902 to the Luxe.


mine came like that a year ago when it first launched. I also got a bag with vibration dampening corners for the fans. I guess I did bug Brian about it beforehand though.


----------



## dkevox

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SomeShow*
> 
> The XSPC Photon 170 is about 15mm wide in diameter than that reservoir it seems. Looks like I'll definitely have to mod the bracket to make it fit somehow.


I think it will fit. There is ~1/4" of clearance between the base of the liquid fusion and the gpu. The base is a decently larger diameter than the tube.


----------



## SirJim

RE: Enthoo Luxe:
Anyone using the filter kit from DemciFlex for their setup? If so I have a few questions:
Does the front filter mount on the outside or inside of the front panel?
What did you do regarding the bottom filters as they don't have any included in the kit?

I could have them make a set for the bottom but not sure that would be cost effective.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SirJim*
> 
> RE: Enthoo Luxe:
> Anyone using the filter kit from DemciFlex for their setup? If so I have a few questions:
> Does the front filter mount on the outside or inside of the front panel?
> What did you do regarding the bottom filters as they don't have any included in the kit?
> 
> I could have them make a set for the bottom but not sure that would be cost effective.


it mounts on the inside and I haven't used those filters but very little dust gets thru the stock filters in the bottom even using it as intake


----------



## havoc764

I am thinking of getting myself a new psu and am wondering wenether a HX850i will fit confortably in my enthoo luxe.
Seeing as that psu is rather deep at 18 cm.


----------



## Faster_is_better

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SomeShow*
> 
> I'd be alright with modifying it if I can make it fit there. Is that the hard drive cage pushed towards the back of the case?


Yes, hdd cave is in the position with it closest to back of case.

Also @dkevox posted a pic above, looks like it does fit without modifying that reservoir bracket even.


----------



## SirJim

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> it mounts on the inside and I haven't used those filters but very little dust gets thru the stock filters in the bottom even using it as intake


Thank you very much for the feedback. I do have one more question before I move everything over to the Luxe case: My motherboard is an asus p8p67pro and only has one real pwm header which is now used for the cpu fan. Using the phanteks fan hub would all this work correctly if I used a splitter off of the mb pwm header and sent one leg to the cpu fan and the other leg to the fan hub?
Seems that each would get the pwm signal and in my mind would work. Please let me know if I'm incorrect.

Thanks


----------



## mfknjadagr8

It should work
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SirJim*
> 
> Thank you very much for the feedback. I do have one more question before I move everything over to the Luxe case: My motherboard is an asus p8p67pro and only has one real pwm header which is now used for the cpu fan. Using the phanteks fan hub would all this work correctly if I used a splitter off of the mb pwm header and sent one leg to the cpu fan and the other leg to the fan hub?
> Seems that each would get the pwm signal and in my mind would work. Please let me know if I'm incorrect.
> 
> Thanks


if it's a pwm splitter it would probably work (such as the swiftech 8 port pwm splitter)...no guarantees but I think a few here have done this but you want to make sure you don't exceed the fan headers rated amperage that wouldn't be good(if the splitter has its own power wouldn't be an issue) ...I'm sure someone here can give more info in this as well I'm not well versed in amperages and the math side


----------



## SirJim

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> It should work
> if it's a pwm splitter it would probably work (such as the swiftech 8 port pwm splitter)...no guarantees but I think a few here have done this but you want to make sure you don't exceed the fan headers rated amperage that wouldn't be good(if the splitter has its own power wouldn't be an issue) ...I'm sure someone here can give more info in this as well I'm not well versed in amperages and the math side


Thanks. I was going to use the sata plug that phanteks supplied with it to power the extra fans. There will be 4 of the phanteks 140mm's and one 200mm connected to the hub. this way I would not draw more power than the header is able to provide.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

if you needed more fans for say water cooling or w/e later you could buy something like the swiftech hub i mention it also has its own power.... but some splitters do not have this and thats when the amperages come into play especially when you are using fans like noctua industrials etc.. that pull alot of amperage for a fan...


----------



## SirJim

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> if you needed more fans for say water cooling or w/e later you could buy something like the swiftech hub i mention it also has its own power.... but some splitters do not have this and thats when the amperages come into play especially when you are using fans like noctua industrials etc.. that pull alot of amperage for a fan...


Moving all my innards over to the luxe today. will let you know if my idea worked or not. If not, I'll get one of those swiftech hubs and see if that does the trick. Thanks again.


----------



## anime513

Does anyone have any opinions on the titanium green version of the pro? Can't seem to find much information about the finish or how it looks in person.


----------



## Captain_cannonfodder

Not very impressive, only just took it from the box.


----------



## sav4

@ cannonfodder was your box damaged ?that's pretty bad damage


----------



## Captain_cannonfodder

Nah, box is fine aside from the usual scuff marks that they get when shipped.


----------



## rfarmer

Yeah that is a real shame.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SirJim*
> 
> Thank you very much for the feedback. I do have one more question before I move everything over to the Luxe case: My motherboard is an asus p8p67pro and only has one real pwm header which is now used for the cpu fan. Using the phanteks fan hub would all this work correctly if I used a splitter off of the mb pwm header and sent one leg to the cpu fan and the other leg to the fan hub?
> Seems that each would get the pwm signal and in my mind would work. Please let me know if I'm incorrect.
> 
> Thanks


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> It should work
> if it's a pwm splitter it would probably work (such as the swiftech 8 port pwm splitter)...no guarantees but I think a few here have done this but you want to make sure you don't exceed the fan headers rated amperage that wouldn't be good(if the splitter has its own power wouldn't be an issue) ...I'm sure someone here can give more info in this as well I'm not well versed in amperages and the math side


Have to love people giving advice without knowing what they are talking about.









The *Phanteks PWM fan hub is not a PWM splitter*

The *Phanteks hub is a PWM controlled variable voltage hub.*. It uses the PWM signal to adjust voltage to variable voltage fans.

That said,
yes @SirJim,
you can use a simple 'Y' splitter on your CPU fan header to split the PWM signal. But you may need to plug the hub into the side of the 'Y' with rpm sensor lead as I'm not sure the mobo & hub will interact proplerly without rpm signal from hub. Generally the rpm signal is not used by the motherboard except when fan is not running or running too slow and it sets off the warning. Otherwise the rpm signal is only so we can see what speed the fans are running. The mobo uses heat sensor to calculate the PWM signal or adjust voltage to increase airlfow but does not use rpm. If temperatures rise, more % of PWM signal is sent to PWM fan or more voltage if variable voltage. If temperatures fall less % of PWM or voltage is used.


----------



## Captain_cannonfodder

Might just build it anyway and wait for a response from OCUK. I'm hoping they can get another front panel sent to me, after looking at the Phanteks forum, European users don't seem to get the help they need. I've opened a ticket with OCUK but it being a bank holiday weekend I don't think I'd get a response till Tuesday.


----------



## doyll

Captain_cannonfodde You have my condolences. It is shipping damage for sure.

Box may not be damaged, but it's obvious it was damaged while in the box. My guess is it was impact on flat side or end .. of box .. meaning major impact on content damage with no damage to box.

Where are you located? Determines email address to use for replacement parts. Normally Phanteks is quite good at supplying replacements.

Edit:
Indeed, I suspect OcUK would give you a replacement, but if you just want replacement parts, email [email protected]
If you haven't heard anything in a week do it again. If you can, send the email with receipt confirmation. Usually works for me.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Have to love people giving advice without knowing what they are talking about.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The *Phanteks PWM fan hub is not a PWM splitter*
> 
> The *Phanteks hub is a PWM controlled variable voltage hub.*. It uses the PWM signal to adjust voltage to variable voltage fans.
> 
> That said,
> yes @SirJim,
> you can use a simple 'Y' splitter on your CPU fan header to split the PWM signal. But you may need to plug the hub into the side of the 'Y' with rpm sensor lead as I'm not sure the mobo & hub will interact proplerly without rpm signal from hub. Generally the rpm signal is not used by the motherboard except when fan is not running or running too slow and it sets off the warning. Otherwise the rpm signal is only so we can see what speed the fans are running. The mobo uses heat sensor to calculate the PWM signal or adjust voltage to increase airlfow but does not use rpm. If temperatures rise, more % of PWM signal is sent to PWM fan or more voltage if variable voltage. If temperatures fall less % of PWM or voltage is used.


I may not know what you do however my phanteks hub is running from the swiftech splitter and on my board it works fine this way the only drawback I've seen so far is the phanteks hub varies a bit from the swiftech hub so I had to adjust the values a bit to keep them where I wanted them but I then decided to just run all the fans flat out 100 percent...I stand corrected I guess?


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> I may not know what you do however my phanteks hub is running from the swiftech splitter and on my board it works fine this way the only drawback I've seen so far is the phanteks hub varies a bit from the swiftech hub so I had to adjust the values a bit to keep them where I wanted them but I then decided to just run all the fans flat out 100 percent...I stand corrected I guess?


Seems I missunderstood your post a bit ..








But the way it is worded lead me to think you were comparing the Phanteks hub to Swiftech hub.
"if it's _a pwm splitter_ it would probably work (such as the swiftech 8 port pwm splitter).."

The 12v power from PSU eliminates your "but you want to make sure you don't exceed the fan headers rated amperage that wouldn't be good"

Definitely not an issue with PSU power hooked up.
"(if the splitter has its own power wouldn't be an issue)"


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Seems I missunderstood your post a bit ..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But the way it is worded lead me to think you were comparing the Phanteks hub to Swiftech hub.
> "if it's _a pwm splitter_ it would probably work (such as the swiftech 8 port pwm splitter).."
> 
> The 12v power from PSU eliminates your "but you want to make sure you don't exceed the fan headers rated amperage that wouldn't be good"
> 
> Definitely not an issue with PSU power hooked up.
> "(if the splitter has its own power wouldn't be an issue)"


these two statements were meant to compliment each other but I can see how it could've been confused what I meant was if the pwm splitter doesn't have its own power then amperage from the port could be a concern but since the swiftech hub is powered from the psu it isn't a concern...I know most pwm splitters are powered from the psu now but was trying to cover that base as I wouldn't want someone to kill their only pwm header by overloading it...I probably should have my fiance proof read my posts as she is an English nazi and would have made me re write the post properly


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dkevox*
> 
> got any pics?? I wanna see this!


Sorry havent checked back in a few days. Yeah as soon as I have the side off again which will be soon.


----------



## dkevox

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Have to love people giving advice without knowing what they are talking about.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The *Phanteks PWM fan hub is not a PWM splitter*
> 
> The *Phanteks hub is a PWM controlled variable voltage hub.*. It uses the PWM signal to adjust voltage to variable voltage fans.
> 
> That said,
> yes @SirJim,
> you can use a simple 'Y' splitter on your CPU fan header to split the PWM signal. But you may need to plug the hub into the side of the 'Y' with rpm sensor lead as I'm not sure the mobo & hub will interact proplerly without rpm signal from hub. Generally the rpm signal is not used by the motherboard except when fan is not running or running too slow and it sets off the warning. Otherwise the rpm signal is only so we can see what speed the fans are running. The mobo uses heat sensor to calculate the PWM signal or adjust voltage to increase airlfow but does not use rpm. If temperatures rise, more % of PWM signal is sent to PWM fan or more voltage if variable voltage. If temperatures fall less % of PWM or voltage is used.


LOL!!!!

And even better is people incorrectly attempting to correct people! You need to re-read their conversation because that's not at all what he said or implied









But good try!


----------



## Captain_cannonfodder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Captain_cannonfodde You have my condolences. It is shipping damage for sure.
> 
> Box may not be damaged, but it's obvious it was damaged while in the box. My guess is it was impact on flat side or end .. of box .. meaning major impact on content damage with no damage to box.
> 
> Where are you located? Determines email address to use for replacement parts. Normally Phanteks is quite good at supplying replacements.
> 
> Edit:
> Indeed, I suspect OcUK would give you a replacement, but if you just want replacement parts, email [email protected]
> If you haven't heard anything in a week do it again. If you can, send the email with receipt confirmation. Usually works for me.


After inspecting the rest of the case, I can't find anymore damage. My guess is that it was either dropped at some point or it fell off the stack in the container. I have actually delivered 5 pallets of computer gaming chairs to OCUK (lorry driver by trade) and have seen their warehouse. I'd be happy with a replacement front panel rather having to send the whole unit back but I don't know if I have to go to Phanteks for that or if OCUK will supply that part.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> these two statements were meant to compliment each other but I can see how it could've been confused what I meant was if the pwm splitter doesn't have its own power then amperage from the port could be a concern but since the swiftech hub is powered from the psu it isn't a concern...I know most pwm splitters are powered from the psu now but was trying to cover that base as I wouldn't want someone to kill their only pwm header by overloading it...I probably should have my fiance proof read my posts as she is an English nazi and would have made me re write the post properly


Yeah, when you replied to my post I could see what you meant.








LOL
My wife is the worst. I think some of it has worn off on me over the years.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dkevox*
> 
> LOL!!!!
> 
> And even better is people incorrectly attempting to correct people! You need to re-read their conversation because that's not at all what he said or implied
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But good try!


Interesting OP (mfknjadagr8) understands how I missunderstood his post, but you don't.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Captain_cannonfodder*
> 
> After inspecting the rest of the case, I can't find anymore damage. My guess is that it was either dropped at some point or it fell off the stack in the container. I have actually delivered 5 pallets of computer gaming chairs to OCUK (lorry driver by trade) and have seen their warehouse. I'd be happy with a replacement front panel rather having to send the whole unit back but I don't know if I have to go to Phanteks for that or if OCUK will supply that part.


OcUK may be able to get parts sent from Phanteks quicker because of their clout, but I doubt they keep any replacement parts on hand.


----------



## Captain_cannonfodder

I think I'm going to continue with my build, I'm going to email Phanteks as well, not sure how I'm going to word that though. The build should be fine for a few days, my house is not that dusty. Hell I can always get some superglue if things get really bad but I'm a bit disappointed to have to superglue a £200 case.


----------



## Rainmaker91

I ordered some spare parts from Phanteks and they got sent from Netherlands, the thing that delayed my order was simply that they need an International ID to deliver to customs (also I was procrastinating doing that







). I have no clue how it would be if you got something when you are in the UK but I suspect OCUK might be able to get the parts quicker since they don't have to worry about the customs in the same way a private person does.


----------



## SirJim

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dkevox*
> 
> LOL!!!!
> 
> And even better is people incorrectly attempting to correct people! You need to re-read their conversation because that's not at all what he said or implied
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But good try!


All is good now. Moved everything over from my Antec 902 to the Luxe. Impressed! Didn't know how much room I didn't have with the Antec but it has served me well. Even more so is the fact that I don't really hear any of the fans inside the Luxe. The 902 might have been a wind tunnel and I only had the stock fans in it.

Thanks for everyone's help. Pwm splitter and fans are all working just fine. Now wondering if I should upgrade my 2600k. Might need to ask the "War Department" for more monies&#8230;&#8230;


----------



## marn3us

Hello, what is the maximum thickness of a top-mounted 420 radiator in the Enthoo Pro?

Will i be ok with a 45mm or is it better to get a 30mm one instead?

Thanks in advance


----------



## dman811

30mm, radiator thickness in the top of the Pro is the one thing I would have to consider a downside.


----------



## TMatzelle60

I wonder if the EK Predator 240mm will fit on the top mount of the Phanteks Evolv ITX
http://www.performance-pcs.com/ek-xlc-predator-240-all-in-one-liquid-cooler.html


----------



## drop24

Possibly it wouldn't due to the pump and reservoir being attached on the end.


----------



## TMatzelle60

Thats what i thought. I would get the swiftech AIO but idk if my motherboard has enough connections or how to hook it up


----------



## marn3us

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dman811*
> 
> 30mm, radiator thickness in the top of the Pro is the one thing I would have to consider a downside.


Are you meaning that 45mm doesn't fit?


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *marn3us*
> 
> Are you meaning that 45mm doesn't fit?


there is 65mm of vertical clearance above the motherboard. 65-25-27mm for a fan and you're left with 38 - 40 mm for a radiator. 140/280/420 rads are wider than 240/360 rads, something to keep in mind.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TMatzelle60*
> 
> Thats what i thought. I would get the swiftech AIO but idk if my motherboard has enough connections or how to hook it up


the h220x or h240x both have included splitter and is very easy to install.. simply plug splitter on cpu header... pump connection goes to slot one on the splitter fans go to 2 and 3 ports and connect the sata connector to the power supply and obviously mount the radiator combo and the cpu block... its very easy... if you could install the ek kit you can easily install the swiftech kit...the only true requirement of your motherboard is that the cpu header is pwm... but i think pretty much all motherboards cpu headers are


----------



## TMatzelle60

The cable for the led on the cpu block where does that go.


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TMatzelle60*
> 
> I wonder if the EK Predator 240mm will fit on the top mount of the Phanteks Evolv ITX
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/ek-xlc-predator-240-all-in-one-liquid-cooler.html


The EK unit is 295mm long, I have a Corsair h105 270mm + Corsair h50 27mm + 120mm fan 25mm = 322mm. Yes the EK will fit.

You will even be able to install a rear exhaust fan.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TMatzelle60*
> 
> The cable for the led on the cpu block where does that go.


any fan header... or the splitter... if you want it to be solid i wouid recommend another fan header because if you set a pwm curve to increase speed with temperature it will pulse based on the percentage if connected to the splitter... if connected to the header you can simply set that header to 100 percent if its configurable if not it probably defaults to 100 percent and will provide solid illumination :0


----------



## TMatzelle60

Is the pulse a actual feature


----------



## Captain_cannonfodder

Might just send it back and get something else. Not that impressed with it to be frank, not at 200 quid.


----------



## InfiniteImp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dman811*
> 
> 30mm, radiator thickness in the top of the Pro is the one thing I would have to consider a downside.


I'm running a 60mm rad. Nice fit. I'm running push/pull as well.

Love this case. Best one I've used to date. No plans to change.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TMatzelle60*
> 
> Is the pulse a actual feature


no the pulse happens whenever the header it's attached to doesn't run at 100 percent voltage so if you had that header set like you would a fan curve it pulse faster the higher the setting and at 100 percent stays illuminated...it's just the way the led reacts to the fan headers settings


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> any fan header... or the splitter... if you want it to be solid i wouid recommend another fan header because if you set a pwm curve to increase speed with temperature it will pulse based on the percentage if connected to the splitter... if connected to the header you can simply set that header to 100 percent if its configurable if not it probably defaults to 100 percent and will provide solid illumination :0


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> no the pulse happens whenever the header it's attached to doesn't run at 100 percent voltage so if you had that header set like you would a fan curve it pulse faster the higher the setting and at 100 percent stays illuminated...it's just the way the led reacts to the fan headers settings


This isn't correct.

If the LED is attached to a PWM header (or the splitter), it will remain at 100% brightness at all times regardless of any curve setup through PWM. This is because PWM headers provide a constant 12V signal at all times.

You will experience variances in the brightness of the LED, or pulsing, if you plug it into a header that uses variable voltage, and the header is not set for 100% voltage at all times. For example, most chassis fan headers are set for (or only capable of) variable voltage, with the voltage increasing as temperatures rise. This will cause the LED to brighten as temps rise.


----------



## dkevox

nvm


----------



## TMatzelle60

Thanks for the help I will get swiftech h220x


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dkevox*
> 
> nvm


Good delete.








I did apologize, even without your making thing of it.

I have a short fuze when it comes to people making suggestions and recommendations with no knowledge or skill set to base their statements on but hear-say. I've fielded literally hundreds of inquiries involving Phanteks PWM controlled fan hub and have dissected two different variants to figure them out.

Did I over-react? Yes!

But statements like that are easily misinterpreted by those who most need the information. They need detailed explanations, not misinformation by omission of critical facts.

Move on.


----------



## Faster_is_better

I see the great "Phanteks PWM fan controller" fiasco is still ongoing above








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Captain_cannonfodder*
> 
> Nah, box is fine aside from the usual scuff marks that they get when shipped.


I would probably be surprised if a case shipped without one or more of those toggles broken off. At least 2-3 of them were broken on my Primo, just super cheap plastic that presses in. Definitely not up to the abuse of shipping a heavy case like that.

Although yours broke off a bit more on that front panel, definitely should get a replacement if you decide to keep the case.

That would probably actually be my biggest complaint about the Primo besides the smoked side window. Cheap plastic in some areas that are very prone to fail. I really don't trust the bottom plastic on my case, thinking about modding a full steel or aluminum box frame along the bottom somehow to increase strength. Essentially its fairly solid plastic in each corner, then all the length of the case it is super thin plastic and the fan filters. Pretty sure my completed case (somewhere around 70lbs +) if It was pivoted on the center could easily break that. Good thing I don't plan to move it much though.


----------



## kilo7echo

She is finally up and running!


----------



## ViOTeK

Greetings everyone!

After many years of lurking in the shadows of this website, I have finally decided to come into the light, and share with you all a glimpse of my current build project. Much more coming very very soon!



Also, a big thanks to all the contributors to various builds throughout this thread. I likely would have ended up with a different case if it wasn't for this thread/forum. This site has also been a great help in regards to the information gathering of various other parts of the build, so I just want to give a big







for all the helpful people here. Hopefully I can give back somehow myself going forward.


----------



## InfiniteImp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ViOTeK*
> 
> After many years of lurking in the shadows of this website, I have finally decided to come into the light, and share with you all a glimpse of my current build project. Much more coming very very soon!


Just in case you get stuck during your build, the cat mounts beneath the reservoir.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InfiniteImp*
> 
> Just in case you get stuck during your build, the cat mounts beneath the reservoir.


Plenty of room in the Primo to do it.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> This isn't correct.
> 
> If the LED is attached to a PWM header (or the splitter), it will remain at 100% brightness at all times regardless of any curve setup through PWM. This is because PWM headers provide a constant 12V signal at all times.
> 
> You will experience variances in the brightness of the LED, or pulsing, if you plug it into a header that uses variable voltage, and the header is not set for 100% voltage at all times. For example, most chassis fan headers are set for (or only capable of) variable voltage, with the voltage increasing as temperatures rise. This will cause the LED to brighten as temps rise.


ok sorry I misunderstood what was posted before by bram in the swiftech thread...he had stated for the led to stay illuminated 100 percent it should be connected to a header without a curve set to full speed or 100 percent so I assumed poorly thinking it was based on pwm signal OR voltage...thanks for the clarification...sorry for the misinformation ill see myself out


----------



## MadPolygon

Hi everyone,

I'm looking to build a new system soon, which will also be my first watercooled one. I'll most likely use the Enthoo Evolv (mATX) as my new case. For the time being I'm only going to watercool the cpu, gpu will be added later this year or early next year.

So my question is if someone with the case could give me some measurements from the lower back compartment/psu shroud? Because I'm wondering if two 240 rads (currently looking at the XSPC EX240) will fit together with a single HDD and the Alphacool DDC310 complete Edition.

I saw a similar build here:

__
https://www.reddit.com/r/3hnse4/first_ever_water_cooled_loop_thanks_to_uwronsz/
 (I'm going to use the same res in the same place), but it looks like he isn't using a HDD. I think it propably can be done if I cot off the top half of the drive cage, so the front rad fits, and then mount the pump on top of the drive. But I would prefer if someone could give me somewhat exact measurements







.


----------



## flynna3162581

hi to ur question about the rad layout... i found this scrawling through idea's for my enthoo evolv itx.... yes u can have 2 240's in this case


----------



## flynna3162581

i had got told off of the guy who allowed me to follow his loop idea that to use 2x 240mm rads buy a small form factor psu and slide the hard drive's under the shroud (for more room and clearance)


----------



## jassilamba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *flynna3162581*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> hi to ur question about the rad layout... i found this scrawling through idea's for my enthoo evolv itx.... yes u can have 2 240's in this case


Nicely done. I will be doing something similar in my SE ITX build. First build in the Evolv ITX I used an AIO cos none on my 240 rads would fit (too wide or too big)


----------



## flynna3162581

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jassilamba*
> 
> Nicely done. I will be doing something similar in my SE ITX build. First build in the Evolv ITX I used an AIO cos none on my 240 rads would fit (too wide or too big)


jassilamba... i have a h100iGTX in my evolv itx (for now while i am getting funds together for the watercooling) ... and fits perfectly yes its a little snug against the window when closed up


----------



## jassilamba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *flynna3162581*
> 
> jassilamba... i have a h100iGTX in my evolv itx (for now while i am getting funds together for the watercooling) ... and fits perfectly yes its a little snug against the window when closed up
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


That is a very nice build mate.

Here is how my first evolv ITX build looked like -



The upcoming one will be in the ITX Se case with Black ext, and Red int.


----------



## Revan654

I had the Primo has but due to it's size, I had to return it. Is the Phanteks Enthoo Luxe a good second choice to get? I'm looking for quality build like the Primo.


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> I had the Primo has but due to it's size, I had to return it. Is the Phanteks Enthoo Luxe a good second choice to get? I'm looking for quality build like the Primo.


it's a very solid case. if you only need up to 3 gpus max or 420 + 240 rad, then go for it.


----------



## anime513

I'm getting more confused about the Titanium Green model for the Pro.

The review for HardwareCanucks shows it as a simple color change: 



The Amazon page shows a different front panel and side window: http://www.amazon.com/Phanteks-Enthoo-Chassis-Window-PH-ES614P_BK/dp/B00K6S1B3Q

Anyone know what exactly this model is suppose to look like?


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *anime513*
> 
> I'm getting more confused about the Titanium Green model for the Pro.
> 
> The review for HardwareCanucks shows it as a simple color change:
> 
> 
> 
> The Amazon page shows a different front panel and side window: http://www.amazon.com/Phanteks-Enthoo-Chassis-Window-PH-ES614P_BK/dp/B00K6S1B3Q
> 
> Anyone know what exactly this model is suppose to look like?


amazon page has the wrong info. that green case is the Enthoo Pro *M*. it's the new $80 case from Phanteks. you've done well to link this mistake as this is the first I've seen the Pro M actually for sale. was supposed to go on sale over a week ago. now if it could just drop to it's MSRP that would be nice.







then again, maybe they just have the picture of the Pro M up there by mistake.


----------



## KaffieneKing

Is there a Phanteks rep on ocn? Want to move the front io on the evolv mATX to the front panel and was wondering if they could supply me with a side panel with no holes, or if anyone knows of a way to fill them in?


----------



## MadPolygon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *flynna3162581*
> 
> i had got told off of the guy who allowed me to follow his loop idea that to use 2x 240mm rads buy a small form factor psu and slide the hard drive's under the shroud (for more room and clearance)


Well I definitely want to stick with an atx psu. But maybe I can flip the hdd on the side and then use the normal pump mount included with the evolv. So a hdd is 101.6mm in width, that's how high the psu shroud needs to be (+ a bit).

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jassilamba*
> 
> Nicely done. I will be doing something similar in my SE ITX build. First build in the Evolv ITX I used an AIO cos none on my 240 rads would fit (too wide or too big)


Could you measure the height of the psu shroud? It looks the same for the ITX and mATX version.
I'm probably gonna write an email to phanteks too, asking for some measurements.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaffieneKing*
> 
> Is there a Phanteks rep on ocn? Want to move the *front io on the evolv mATX* to the front panel and was wondering if they could supply me with a side panel with no holes, or if anyone knows of a way to fill them in?


Don't you mean side IO? But good question, had something similar in mind, but didn't think much about it yet. The big ATX version has definitely the better IO layout. And also a prettier window, the window of the mATX version just looks kinda unfinished and only half done.


----------



## flynna3162581

thanks to jassilamba he has given me some crazy idea's for my entho evolv itx... i am just wondering if these http://www.watercoolinguk.co.uk/p/CL-38andquot;-BSPP-10mm-Hose-Push-Fitting_1831.html would work with acrylic tubing with a 10mm OD size


----------



## Evil-Mobo

Any feedback on the Evolv ATX? I'm wanting to know if you can run a dual 360 rad setup with one each on the top and the front.

Aside from caselabs the only thing that really has caught my attention is the Evolv ATX, and maybe the Primo, but it's a freaking warehouse lol......


----------



## dman811

You think the Primo is a warehouse? Most stuff from Case Labs is the size of a small country.


----------



## Evil-Mobo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dman811*
> 
> You think the Primo is a warehouse? Most stuff from Case Labs is the size of a small country.


Not all of their cases are huge, guess I should have specified I was eyeballing the S8 & S8S.......


----------



## OGBeandip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Evil-Mobo*
> 
> Any feedback on the Evolv ATX? I'm wanting to know if you can run a dual 360 rad setup with one each on the top and the front.
> 
> Aside from caselabs the only thing that really has caught my attention is the Evolv ATX, and maybe the Primo, but it's a freaking warehouse lol......


PRIMO PRIMO PRIMO


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Evil-Mobo*
> 
> Any feedback on the Evolv ATX? I'm wanting to know if you can run a dual 360 rad setup with one each on the top and the front.
> 
> Aside from caselabs the only thing that really has caught my attention is the Evolv ATX, and maybe the Primo, but it's a freaking warehouse lol......






 that is a good video that shows clearances for the Evolv ATX and watercooling components, looks like 2 slim 360s will fit, but be very snug.


----------



## Evil-Mobo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rfarmer*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> that is a good video that shows clearances for the Evolv ATX and watercooling components, looks like 2 slim 360s will fit, but be very snug.


Thanks for the info. Looks like I will need/want to go bigger. Thanks for the link much appreciated.


----------



## Evil-Mobo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OGBeandip*
> 
> PRIMO PRIMO PRIMO


you sir are a bad influence.......


----------



## OGBeandip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Evil-Mobo*
> 
> you sir are a bad influence.......


Old news.


----------



## MadPolygon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Evil-Mobo*
> 
> Any feedback on the Evolv ATX? I'm wanting to know if you can run a dual 360 rad setup with one each on the top and the front.
> 
> Aside from caselabs the only thing that really has caught my attention is the Evolv ATX, and maybe the Primo, but it's a freaking warehouse lol......


Two slim 360 will probably fit, if you mount the top one directly to frame of the case and dont use the slide-out mounting bracket. With standard mounting they won't fir.

Source: see build log here: http://extreme.pcgameshardware.de/tagebuecher/394810-crys-x99-wakue-build-log-post7644845.html (german)


----------



## zerophase

Anyone have suggestions for rgb led brands? I'm going to pick up a farbwerk, and don't know which leds will provide good lighting mainly looking for lights that give a good white.


----------



## maskymus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zerophase*
> 
> Anyone have suggestions for rgb led brands? I'm going to pick up a farbwerk, and don't know which leds will provide good lighting mainly looking for lights that give a good white.


Don't look at the brand - they're all made in China. If you have farbwerk and need good white color, then look for rgb led strips based on smd5050 diodes.
There are also RGBW strips, but they're not compatible with farbwerk.


----------



## zerophase

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *maskymus*
> 
> Don't look at the brand - they're all made in China. If you have farbwerk and need good white color, then look for rgb led strips based on smd5050 diodes.
> There are also RGBW strips, but they're not compatible with farbwerk.


Good thing I haven't ordered the Farbwerk yet. It would be nice to control the lights based on water temperature, but not really neccesary. What's a good controller for rgbw?


----------



## dkevox

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zerophase*
> 
> Good thing I haven't ordered the Farbwerk yet. It would be nice to control the lights based on water temperature, but not really neccesary. What's a good controller for rgbw?


I have my LED lights powered off the Phantek PWM hub. The hub is controlled through a PWM header on my motherboard. Using the built in Asus Fan expert I control the hub based off cpu temp.

However, I have 2 koolance flow meters with built in temperature probes that are wired into temperature sensors on the motherboard (asus R5E). So I could control the phantek pwm hub off the water temp as well.

I find cpu temp is a bit more entertaining though. Water temp is pretty slow to change in a decent loop setup.


----------



## TMatzelle60

How did you turn off the Phanteks PWM hub led? Also your talking about this pwm hub correct.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811984004&cm_re=phanteks_pwm-_-11-984-004-_-Product


----------



## dkevox

Yeah that. I bought my case a year ago and it didn't come with the fancy cover.

As far as the LED I didn't even know there was one as I have it mounted in the back of my case. But I'd have to imagine a simple piece of electrical tape would do the trick.


----------



## flynna3162581

i have the phobya RGB's tho not plugged in yet .... they work a treat really


----------



## Roxycon

anyone knows how thick drives one could fit in the back, 2,5'' sleds, of the evolv matx?


----------



## 47 Knucklehead

For those who may be interested, I am selling my customized Phantek Enthoo Primo case that has been heavily modified and water cooled. Not a whole computer, but the case and/or supporting components. A true masterpiece for the Phantek fan. It was from my [Build Log] Muzzle Flash II: The Sniper build.

For Sale: [FS] Watercooling Supplies (Rads, Res, Pumps, etc) and Custom Phantek Primo case


----------



## zerophase

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dkevox*
> 
> I have my LED lights powered off the Phantek PWM hub. The hub is controlled through a PWM header on my motherboard. Using the built in Asus Fan expert I control the hub based off cpu temp.
> 
> However, I have 2 koolance flow meters with built in temperature probes that are wired into temperature sensors on the motherboard (asus R5E). So I could control the phantek pwm hub off the water temp as well.
> 
> I find cpu temp is a bit more entertaining though. Water temp is pretty slow to change in a decent loop setup.


Yeah, cpu temp would be better. I noticed my water temp slowly rises over the course of 10 minutes. Still trying to figure out when I should kick my fans up to a higher speed to cool it down.


----------



## extreme1

Noooooooooo! Why why




































Setting up a new system. I bought a Enthoo Primo for my ASUS Z10PE-D8 WS.
Why the hell doesn't it fit.

EEB vs. SSI EEB
SSI is Server System Infrastructure (SSI) so naturally you think they just didn't write SSI in the beginning of EEB.
That the SSI guys made the EEB standard but apparently no. Mounting holes are not the same.

Also everywhere you look Enthoo Primo is listed as a EEB case.
Do I install it with 7/10 screws or do I get a new case.

Sitting here with 2x e5-2699 and Fury x and crying basically.


----------



## MrKoala

Use all the screws you can use. Fill the remaining with standoffs reversed or extra standoffs you get else where. As long as all the mounting holes are supported with standoffs of the same height it's good. It doesn't matter if a few of them are not screwed into the back plate.

Something like this will do:


Why dual 2699 and a Fury?


----------



## extreme1

These are the holes I am missing.
I have bought 6 new screens and the green team cards dont support it. And I always buy red anyways =)
CPUs? Because they are the most expensive I could find and I need the CPU power.
I still have to decide on how and with what to replace my SSD with


----------



## MrKoala

You need the CPU power for? Those CPUs are much worse than unlocked i7s in light threaded apps.

Just to be sure, are your using registered RAM? E5 V3 doesn't support unregistered RAM.

For the GPU my idea was you should have gotten four of them instead of one.







Considering the price of the CPU this isn't a big deal.


----------



## extreme1

I am getting 4 when they release Fury X2. Hopefully they release them soon. Although I only play Swtor atm =)
Dont need speed just CPU calculation power. Raw power. These are great for the work I do.
I bought the memories picking from the list from ASUS so they should work.

I am going to go ahead and install the mobo with only those crews. Its going to be a lot of pressure on the upper right screw with 2 CPU coolers but **** it.
I dont want to wait. The case will be standing up so the mobo should not make contact in the middle where there is no standoffs.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *extreme1*
> 
> I am getting 4 when they release Fury X2. Hopefully they release them soon. Although I only play Swtor atm =)
> Dont need speed just CPU calculation power. Raw power. These are great for the work I do.
> I bought the memories picking from the list from ASUS so they should work.
> 
> I am going to go ahead and install the mobo with only those crews. Its going to be a lot of pressure on the upper right screw with 2 CPU coolers but **** it.
> I dont want to wait. The case will be standing up so the mobo should not make contact in the middle where there is no standoffs.


I find it odd that you bought six monitors but didn't buy a case labs case







I really like the primo but for your setup case labs would've been a better choice...I would be using a drill and a tap and die set right now if I were you


----------



## extreme1

hehehe

I looked at every case there is out there for months. Not easy with EEB and it still didn't get right.
SOB's can't make an affort and tag products rights it seems.

I looked at

LD PC-V8
Thermaltake Core X9
Thermaltake W200
HAF Stacker 935
and caselab cases.

I will install it now, drill holes later and get plastic replacements later. I am going for water cooling later anyways when the new fury 2x arrives. Its only right now with the weight of the CPU coolers I have to
be careful only starting the system when standing up.


----------



## TMatzelle60

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrKoala*
> 
> You need the CPU power for? Those CPUs are much worse than unlocked i7s in light threaded apps.
> 
> Just to be sure, are your using registered RAM? E5 V3 doesn't support unregistered RAM.
> 
> For the GPU my idea was you should have gotten four of them instead of one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Considering the price of the CPU this isn't a big deal.


You mean ECC Ram correct? Never heard of registered ram unless you mean ram they say works on there site.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *extreme1*
> 
> These are the holes I am missing.
> I have bought 6 new screens and the green team cards dont support it. And I always buy red anyways =)
> CPUs? Because they are the most expensive I could find and I need the CPU power.
> I still have to decide on how and with what to replace my SSD with


If you worry about it, you could mark and drill the holes in mounting tray and secure the standoffs with nuts from behind the tray.


----------



## TMatzelle60

Alttile help here. i was wondering if i can use this pcbs with my 3pin noctua fans and there LNA ( Low noise adapter)
http://www.performance-pcs.com/modmytoys-4-pin-power-distribution-pcb-5-way-block.html

It would look like this.

Noctua 3pin Fan ( Connected To) The Noise Adapter (Connected To) The PCB Above (Connected To) the 4 pin molex from the PSU

Want to make sure i can not blow up my pc or psu.


----------



## extreme1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TMatzelle60*
> 
> You mean ECC Ram correct? Never heard of registered ram unless you mean ram they say works on there site.


https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/ECC_memory

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Registered_memory


----------



## MrKoala

Mounting like this should be fine but make sure you put everything onto the mobo before mounting it.


----------



## TMatzelle60

Thanks trying to find out 100% i mean i don't see a problem


----------



## dkevox

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TMatzelle60*
> 
> Alttile help here. i was wondering if i can use this pcbs with my 3pin noctua fans and there LNA ( Low noise adapter)
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/modmytoys-4-pin-power-distribution-pcb-5-way-block.html
> 
> It would look like this.
> 
> Noctua 3pin Fan ( Connected To) The Noise Adapter (Connected To) The PCB Above (Connected To) the 4 pin molex from the PSU
> 
> Want to make sure i can not blow up my pc or psu.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TMatzelle60*
> 
> Thanks trying to find out 100% i mean i don't see a problem


I don't think the other posts were in reply to you.

But that will work just fine. However, you will not have any control of the fan speeds, they will just run at full speed the entire time if that matters to you.


----------



## TMatzelle60

Well you mean full speed even with the voltage low noise adapter or you mean they will never fluctuate. The noise adapter will work right? but ill never have control of it.

So if the noise adapter allows 900rpm that is all it will stay at whole time no matter what is that what your saying


----------



## dkevox

^^ Yeah, the noise adapter will still reduce the speed. So yes, they will just stay at 900 the entire time. it was just an fyi, there's nothing wrong with that.


----------



## TMatzelle60

Ok thanks +2 for help


----------



## kennyj

I'm trying to figure out a rad configuration for my incoming Primo SE that could handle an Intel CPU + 2x SLI with minimal fuss. I don't intend to use SLI in the near-term, but it seems like it's a possibility I may have to plan for in the long run.

Would I be correct in assuming that the reason that a number of people tend to use 280 rads for the bottom is that anything larger would obstruct the built-in pump mount? Is there any other caveat to putting something like a 420 or 480 Monsta in the bottom?

Many people also seem to be using the XSPC EX-480 on the top, where otherwise 420 rads like the Alphacool XT45 seem popular. I can only assume that the larger surface area of the 480 is an advantage even despite the EX-480 being slimmer than most. Is there a reason why this particular rad is popular, other than lower cost? Do 45mm-thick top rads tend to have more clearance issues?

I haven't done any case modding in many years (close to 10) but I'm no stranger to the Dremel. I'm hoping to keep that to a minimum, but I have no qualms about getting my hands dirty.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kennyj*
> 
> I'm trying to figure out a rad configuration for my incoming Primo SE that could handle an Intel CPU + 2x SLI with minimal fuss. I don't intend to use SLI in the near-term, but it seems like it's a possibility I may have to plan for in the long run.
> 
> Would I be correct in assuming that the reason that a number of people tend to use 280 rads for the bottom is that anything larger would obstruct the built-in pump mount? Is there any other caveat to putting something like a 420 or 480 Monsta in the bottom?
> 
> Many people also seem to be using the XSPC EX-480 on the top, where otherwise 420 rads like the Alphacool XT45 seem popular. I can only assume that the larger surface area of the 480 is an advantage even despite the EX-480 being slimmer than most. Is there a reason why this particular rad is popular, other than lower cost? Do 45mm-thick top rads tend to have more clearance issues?
> 
> I haven't done any case modding in many years (close to 10) but I'm no stranger to the Dremel. I'm hoping to keep that to a minimum, but I have no qualms about getting my hands dirty.


it never hurts to have more rad than you need now because like you said expansion happens...another reason I can think is they like the tube routing from the shorter rad..I want a primo and when I get it I will definitely have the most rad I can cram in it...monsters everywhere!...I love my pro but two 480s would be nice...and the primo has room for the pump to go elsewhere...


----------



## Faster_is_better

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kennyj*
> 
> I'm trying to figure out a rad configuration for my incoming Primo SE that could handle an Intel CPU + 2x SLI with minimal fuss. I don't intend to use SLI in the near-term, but it seems like it's a possibility I may have to plan for in the long run.
> 
> Would I be correct in assuming that the reason that a number of people tend to use 280 rads for the bottom is that anything larger would obstruct the built-in pump mount? Is there any other caveat to putting something like a 420 or 480 Monsta in the bottom?
> 
> Many people also seem to be using the XSPC EX-480 on the top, where otherwise 420 rads like the Alphacool XT45 seem popular. I can only assume that the larger surface area of the 480 is an advantage even despite the EX-480 being slimmer than most. Is there a reason why this particular rad is popular, other than lower cost? Do 45mm-thick top rads tend to have more clearance issues?
> 
> I haven't done any case modding in many years (close to 10) but I'm no stranger to the Dremel. I'm hoping to keep that to a minimum, but I have no qualms about getting my hands dirty.


You could probably get away with 2x 240 rads cooling that, but... this case can fit a lot more. 2x 480 or a 420 + 480, or 2x 360s even would give excellent cooling. Most of the Primo builds I have seen used Alphacool all around, sometimes the extra ports are invaluable, and in other situations such as the bottom, there is only 126-127mm clearance to fit radiators. Alphacools fit in there fine.

45mm top rad has plenty of room, some people even shove a 60mm rad up there. The bottom has tons of vertical room, only have to worry about width there.

Check my signature, my build log may give you some ideas, also in my sig is a measurement thread for the Phanteks Primo, shows various radiator configs and lots of measurements.

Also the pump mount is behind the PSU shroud so there isn't really anything to block it, 480 fits in bottom well.


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kennyj*
> 
> I'm trying to figure out a rad configuration for my incoming Primo SE that could handle an Intel CPU + 2x SLI with minimal fuss. I don't intend to use SLI in the near-term, but it seems like it's a possibility I may have to plan for in the long run.
> 
> Would I be correct in assuming that the reason that a number of people tend to use 280 rads for the bottom is that anything larger would obstruct the built-in pump mount? Is there any other caveat to putting something like a 420 or 480 Monsta in the bottom?
> 
> Many people also seem to be using the XSPC EX-480 on the top, where otherwise 420 rads like the Alphacool XT45 seem popular. I can only assume that the larger surface area of the 480 is an advantage even despite the EX-480 being slimmer than most. Is there a reason why this particular rad is popular, other than lower cost? Do 45mm-thick top rads tend to have more clearance issues?
> 
> I haven't done any case modding in many years (close to 10) but I'm no stranger to the Dremel. I'm hoping to keep that to a minimum, but I have no qualms about getting my hands dirty.


Not quite sure why people choose what they do but I'll gove it a shot: Forst things first, you shouød have no problem using a monsta rad in the top of the rad if it's a 120mm rad and not a 140mm rad you can do push pull as well (there will be some overlap with the MB on that config). Then there is the placement of bottom rads, the max you can get in this case would likely be a 240-280mm in the bottom combined with a pair of 240mm 30mm thick rads in the front. This should provide marginally better results than a 480mm monsta in the bottom.

Other than that I can't really say why people chose what they do in this case. A lot of times it's stuff left over, then there is the fact that some rad thicknesses are easier to buy and sell used. So really there are a lot of variables in this case. For most builds a 480mm in top and a 240mm in bottom will also provide more than enough cooling for a dual GPU setup, so that may be one of the reasons. Also if you intend to run a lot of harddrives you can always go for a shorter rad in teh bottom as that will mean that you can utilize the entire hdd cage.

As for the pump mount... it's on the back side oft eh PSU shroud so it should not be affected by any rad mounts you do.

As for how a fully specced Primo would be with rads... 1 140mm, 30mm thick rad in push in the back, 1 480mm monsta in the top with push/pull ( you may have to go for 60mm thick instead depending on the MB), 1 280mm monsta in the bottom, 2 240mm 30mm rads in front in push/pull. Really this would be so much surface area that it is ridiculus, but it can be done without any modifications to the case.


----------



## kennyj

Thank you both, you've answered a LOT of my questions. There's a crapton of info floating around about these cases, and sorting it all out is not easy!


----------



## dkevox

Why do people say that a 480 has more surface area than a 420?

120x120x4 < 140x140x3

Also numerous radiators outperform the Monsta depending on your max fan speed. The monsta requires decently high fan speeds to work.


----------



## TMatzelle60

Man i wish the EK 240 AIO water cooler would fit in the Evolv ITX


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TMatzelle60*
> 
> Man i wish the EK 240 AIO water cooler would fit in the Evolv ITX


It will. You have 330mm of space for a radiator, the EK 240 is 295mm, plenty of space.


----------



## TMatzelle60

How isn't the back by the pumps to long. The whole unit would be long?


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dkevox*
> 
> Why do people say that a 480 has more surface area than a 420?
> 
> 120x120x4 < 140x140x3
> 
> Also numerous radiators outperform the Monsta depending on your max fan speed. The monsta requires decently high fan speeds to work.


traditionally speaking a 480 has outperformed 420mm rads simply because there used to be a lack of really good 140mm fans. As for the monsta rads... yeah you don't get the performance if you don't have sufficient enough with air moving over the fins, so the performance is really variable depending on the fans in use and the speed you will run them on.

As for actual surface area... 120mmx480mm=57000mm^2 and 140mmx420mm=58000mm^2 (given that the surface area is exactly 420mmx140mm and 480mmx120mm in size). Then you can ofcourse use PixR^2 to get the fan diameter (subtracting the size of the cap in the center) to get an estimate of how much surface area is actually in use.

So yeah a 420mm rad is slight bit larger than a 480mm rad, but sometimes a 480mm radiator is more practical simply by the fact that the width of the radiator is less of a hassle. Then there is ofcourse the fans which is less of a problem now, but if you want good fans (or at least up until 2015) then 120mm fans is the way to go. I know some will argue against that, but very few 140mm fans outperform 120mm fans in things like static pressure (using a 140mm to 120mm adapter is no argument as you would essentially just have 3/6 120mm fans on a 420mm rad and 4/8 on a 480mm rad).

As for always mentioning the monsta rads... usually it's more about mentioning the rads space that you actually have to use. So by saying you can fit a monsta rad in push/pull you are essentially saying that you have at least 130mm of clearance when depth is concerned (going by standard fan dimentions and the dimentions that alphacool is listing on their site).
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TMatzelle60*
> 
> How isn't the back by the pumps to long. The whole unit would be long?


From the looks of it they have fitted the reservoir and the pump directly in to the core, which makes them act as the chamber of the radiator. Doing this you can significantly lower the total length of the radiator. So as it is 295mm is the numbers given by EKWB so if you can fit something at that length which @rfarmer sugests that you will then it will fit. There is nothing more to it than that.


----------



## rfarmer

TMatzelle60 this is my computer:



The h105 is 270mm long, the h50 is 27mm thick and the fan is 25mm, total of 322mm. Much longer than the Ek.

The EK is 68mm thick, mine is 38mm + 25mm = 63mm. The EK is a little thicker, but not enough to matter. Believe me it will fit.


----------



## Ironsmack

Finally got my HTPC/Server rig up and leak testing.

Im not going for a pretty build here since i'll be redoing this in a few months for my old X79 platform.



With my WC gear, + 8 HD, it's one heavy rig







.

One thing that surprise me when i was putting plumbing it up, the holes for the pump mount fits in 120mm fan spacing. Phantek's, great job on that


----------



## kennyj

I'm assuming that you lose the 3.5" drive bay by putting a 480 in the bottom, or would that only need to happen to do a side-mounted rad as well? Any conceivable situation where 2x480 wouldn't be enough cooling beyond something asinine like quad-SLI? Say, if I wanted to keep the fans very, very low, 750 or lower?


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kennyj*
> 
> I'm assuming that you lose the 3.5" drive bay by putting a 480 in the bottom, or would that only need to happen to do a side-mounted rad as well? Any conceivable situation where 2x480 wouldn't be enough cooling beyond something asinine like quad-SLI? Say, if I wanted to keep the fans very, very low, 750 or lower?
> 
> Also, would a pump+res combo fit on the pump mount, or would I have to find one that can fit in the res bracket in front and make sure that there's vertical clearance?


A rule of thumb if you want lower speed on your fans is 240mm for each component, so yeah a dual 480mm setup should be enough for quite a bit of power. as for what you have to remove when using a 480mm in the bottom... I'll show you a quick picture of my Primo that currently has a 480mm monsta rad in push (simply becasue the build is far from finished), and as you can see there is more than enough clearance to the HDD cage if you just remove the bottom part of it.


----------



## ali13245

My bad... Wrong thread


----------



## TMatzelle60

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rfarmer*
> 
> TMatzelle60 this is my computer:
> 
> 
> 
> The h105 is 270mm long, the h50 is 27mm thick and the fan is 25mm, total of 322mm. Much longer than the Ek.
> 
> The EK is 68mm thick, mine is 38mm + 25mm = 63mm. The EK is a little thicker, but not enough to matter. Believe me it will fit.


I wonder if the back fan will work with the EK or i won't be able to have one


----------



## dkevox

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> traditionally speaking a 480 has outperformed 420mm rads simply because there used to be a lack of really good 140mm fans. As for the monsta rads... yeah you don't get the performance if you don't have sufficient enough with air moving over the fins, so the performance is really variable depending on the fans in use and the speed you will run them on.
> 
> As for actual surface area... 120mmx480mm=57000mm^2 and 140mmx420mm=58000mm^2 (given that the surface area is exactly 420mmx140mm and 480mmx120mm in size). Then you can ofcourse use PixR^2 to get the fan diameter (subtracting the size of the cap in the center) to get an estimate of how much surface area is actually in use.
> 
> So yeah a 420mm rad is slight bit larger than a 480mm rad, but sometimes a 480mm radiator is more practical simply by the fact that the width of the radiator is less of a hassle. Then there is ofcourse the fans which is less of a problem now, but if you want good fans (or at least up until 2015) then 120mm fans is the way to go. I know some will argue against that, but very few 140mm fans outperform 120mm fans in things like static pressure (using a 140mm to 120mm adapter is no argument as you would essentially just have 3/6 120mm fans on a 420mm rad and 4/8 on a 480mm rad).
> 
> As for always mentioning the monsta rads... usually it's more about mentioning the rads space that you actually have to use. So by saying you can fit a monsta rad in push/pull you are essentially saying that you have at least 130mm of clearance when depth is concerned (going by standard fan dimentions and the dimentions that alphacool is listing on their site).


Good answer man! Lots of info.

Curious cause I don't know: are fins opposite fan blades truly the only fins working to dissipate heat? You say to calculate area covered by the fans and then subtract off the center cap.

I would think (but I have never studied this) that the fans create an area of higher pressure (slightly) on one side. This higher pressure would result in air flow along the path of least resistance. So I would think air would still flow through fins that aren't directly across from fan blades. But then again, I don't know much about the effects of turbulence, static vs dynamic pressure... on the system to know if that is true or not. I really would be interested to know more about the physics behind that.


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TMatzelle60*
> 
> I wonder if the back fan will work with the EK or i won't be able to have one


EK is 295mm + 25mm fan= 320mm. You have 330mm so yes you can have a rear exhaust fan.


----------



## TMatzelle60

Nice

Would you say that the EK AIO is better then the Swiftech


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TMatzelle60*
> 
> Nice
> 
> Would you say that the EK AIO is better then the Swiftech


Should be by the fact that the components individually are better than the ones Swiftech use. That said both are good units.

EK supremacy MX v.s. Swiftech Apogee XL (Supremacy seems to top most of the tests around)
EK Coolstream PE rad v.s. generic Swiftech rad (I have no idea what rad is in use on the AIO units from Swiftech but Swiftech units tend to score worse than PE rads anyway)
EK Vardar fans v.s. Swiftech Helix fans (Vardar fans are some of the best on the market at the moment and are significantly better than the helix fans)

So I would be surprised if the EKWB Predator does not perform better than the H-22Xx units
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dkevox*
> 
> Good answer man! Lots of info.
> 
> Curious cause I don't know: are fins opposite fan blades truly the only fins working to dissipate heat? You say to calculate area covered by the fans and then subtract off the center cap.
> 
> I would think (but I have never studied this) that the fans create an area of higher pressure (slightly) on one side. This higher pressure would result in air flow along the path of least resistance. So I would think air would still flow through fins that aren't directly across from fan blades. But then again, I don't know much about the effects of turbulence, static vs dynamic pressure... on the system to know if that is true or not. I really would be interested to know more about the physics behind that.


Not quite sure as I haven't seen any tests on it yet but the fans move air directly below the blades themselves (especially static pressure fans) so I would say that only the area below the blades actually get a significant flow of air). I have not clue as to how you should improve that but I expect that maybe a few different shroud designs may help in that regard, or simply use a larger fan on a smaller rad surface (140mm fan on 120mm rad for example) to minimize the effect. In any case it would be very interesting to do some actual tests, but I have neither the required knowledge nor the funds to do such a thing.


----------



## TMatzelle60

+Rep thanks for your info


----------



## kennyj

Would a pump+res combo fit on the pump mount, or would I have to find one that can fit in the res bracket in front and make sure that there's vertical clearance?

ETA: A possibly stupid idea: with a 480 top and bottom, could I still fit a 240 in front and a single 140 in the back (I'm assuming push only) if I wanted to really go insane? Or would the front rad's heat dumping into the case start negating its own benefit when the top rad starts drawing in that warmer air?


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TMatzelle60*
> 
> Nice
> 
> Would you say that the EK AIO is better then the Swiftech


Very hard to say without benchmarks on the EK, they are very similar units.


----------



## Faster_is_better

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kennyj*
> 
> Would a pump+res combo fit on the pump mount, or would I have to find one that can fit in the res bracket in front and make sure that there's vertical clearance?
> 
> ETA: A possibly stupid idea: with a 480 top and bottom, could I still fit a 240 in front and a single 140 in the back (I'm assuming push only) if I wanted to really go insane? Or would the front rad's heat dumping into the case start negating its own benefit when the top rad starts drawing in that warmer air?


480 in the bottom and 240 in the front is a no go as a 480 rad runs right up to the fan mounts in the front. Now it may be possible to sneak a 240 in the side, there is actually a bracket to mount one, but it would be sooo crowded I don't think it would be worth it, plus you likely could not use any of the hard drive cages.

See how crowded my back is with 1 hard drive cage, 480 in the bottom....


Here is the Alphacool UT60 480 in the bottom, you can see the end buts right up against the front where the 140mm fans screw into.


I'm sure a 240 could be put in there with very good cable management and maybe dropping the hard drive bay but I don't think it would be worth it. The 140 in back would also not be worth it IMO, to crowded and may not even fit anyway. For the little bit of extra cooling it may give not worth the hassle of plumbing that, fitting it in.

I already get really sweet temps with my 2x 480s, and this is with 2x r9 290s, very warm cards. I don't think I have even broke 50C on CPU or GPU's (VRM do hit 53C) and that's with all fans low, 100% load, and ambient about 22-24C.

If you "need" more cooling, might as well just setup an external radiator box and plug into it


----------



## kennyj

Possibly my last question: if one's priority is to keep noise to a minimum, wouldn't it be advantageous to use 30mm rads like theAlphacool ST30 both top and bottom, given that they seem to outperform thicker rads at very low fan speeds? Or is there a practical purpose for 60mm lower rads that I'm not seeing, like ease of maintenance?


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kennyj*
> 
> Possibly my last question: if one's priority is to keep noise to a minimum, wouldn't it be advantageous to use 30mm rads like theAlphacool ST30 both top and bottom, given that they seem to outperform thicker rads at very low fan speeds? Or is there a practical purpose for 60mm lower rads that I'm not seeing, like ease of maintenance?


As far as I know it you get better perfomrance with thicker rads, so if you run for example a push/pull setup then you can get away with better performance with thicker rads. Personally I prefer 45mm thick rads or even 60mm thick rads may work to depending on teh fans in use. Really there is just so many variables, and for my own part it was more about me finding the rads for cheap so I ended up with monsta rads (really would have wanted 45mm or 60mm rads though, but when I got a pair of Nexxxos 480mm monsta rads for about 165USD I'm not gonna turn it down).


----------



## Ironsmack

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kennyj*
> 
> Possibly my last question: if one's priority is to keep noise to a minimum, wouldn't it be advantageous to use 30mm rads like theAlphacool ST30 both top and bottom, given that they seem to outperform thicker rads at very low fan speeds? Or is there a practical purpose for 60mm lower rads that I'm not seeing, like ease of maintenance?


Well, if noise is priority to you then you choose a rad that works well on a given RPM range you're looking for. TBH, any fan that is spinning 1000 RPM or less - tend to be really quiet. On my HTPC rig, on idle and light loads - fans varies from 500 - 800 RPM. And i hear my HD's spin more often than my fans running.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> As far as I know it you get better perfomrance with thicker rads, so if you run for example a push/pull setup then you can get away with better performance with thicker rads. Personally I prefer 45mm thick rads or even 60mm thick rads may work to depending on teh fans in use. Really there is just so many variables, and for my own part it was more about me finding the rads for cheap so I ended up with monsta rads (really would have wanted 45mm or 60mm rads though, but when I got a pair of Nexxxos 480mm monsta rads for about 165USD I'm not gonna turn it down).


Thicker rads for the most part works on a given RPM. For example, the monsta rad excels on 1800+ RPM's while there are other rads that are optimized for lower RPM's.


----------



## Acquire

So, I got an Evolv ATX. It replaced my HAF X. I ended up going with an all air build after the H100i GTX I got failed almost immediately. Temperatures are fine. It looks great and is of good size, unlike my HAF X behemoth. The only problem is I have some weird rhythmic humming or something happening in the case. Can't pinpoint what's causing it. Tried various combinations of fans being on or off and it's still there. Almost seems like the mere presence of air flow is causing it. Although I can only really tell if there's complete silence around me. Outside of that, noise wise the case is pretty quiet, about the same as it was on the HAF X since under load it's the GPUs that make the most noise.

One thing to note for people looking into it with large PSUs (mine is a Corsair AX1200i). I ended up removing the bottom HDD cage because the only way I could fit the cables in there would've been to almost crush them into the tiny space. The whole bottom compartment is PSU area and I managed to throw an SSD in there as well.


----------



## panozy

Hello. I have an Enthoo Pro and i am wondering how many rads i will be able to fit in. So i am thinking of a 25mm 360 on top. Can i put another 25mm 120 rad on back? It seems like i can. I am thinking of a 25mm/45mm 240 on the front panel and i do not know if i can fit a 25mm 120 rad at the bottom (psu cover removed) and closer to psu. Thank you very much in advance for your help!


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *panozy*
> 
> Hello. I have an Enthoo Pro and i am wondering how many rads i will be able to fit in. So i am thinking of a 25mm 360 on top. Can i put another 25mm 120 rad on back? It seems like i can. I am thinking of a 25mm/45mm 240 on the front panel and i do not know if i can fit a 25mm 120 rad at the bottom (psu cover removed) and closer to psu. Thank you very much in advance for your help!


should research what radiators a case can fit before buying it. that said, I haven't seen any 25mm radiators, only 27mm +. this case can fit a 360 rad in the top and a 140/120 rad on the rear. the setup you described you can do it with no problems in the enthoo pro.


----------



## dman811

The box mine came in has details of what size radiators can fit in the case. Not sure if they changed it, because that was a really good idea.


----------



## panozy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PureBlackFire*
> 
> should research what radiators a case can fit before buying it. that said, I haven't seen any 25mm radiators, only 27mm +. this case can fit a 360 rad in the top and a 140/120 rad on the rear. the setup you described you can do it with no problems in the enthoo pro.


I know what rads it can fit, that is why i did not say 420 a d i said 360. I want to see if anyone has done it, that is why i ask. What about the front and the bottom? I do not want only a 240mm either at front or bottom if i can also fit a 120. EKWB makes 26mm rads, my mistake there, i thought for some reason that they were 25mm.


----------



## dman811

You can fit a 240 in the front and a 120 in the bottom if you don't mind sacrificing your hard drive cages and PSU cover.


----------



## flynna3162581

this here is my entho evolv itx... it has the new h100i gtx in the top which is a 30mm rad... with 25mm fans on ... and it looks and fits perfect


----------



## panozy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dman811*
> 
> You can fit a 240 in the front and a 120 in the bottom if you don't mind sacrificing your hard drive cages and PSU cover.


Could i fit a thick at front (without losing the 120 at the bottom), like 45mm? Also if the 360 is45mm instead of 25mm, would i still be able to fit a 120 at the back?


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *panozy*
> 
> Could i fit a thick at front (without losing the 120 at the bottom), like 45mm?


yrs. front rad thickness has no limit and the 120 rad can be mounted as much as 150+mm away from the front of the case depending on how long your power supply is.
Quote:


> Also if the 360 is 45mm instead of 25mm, would i still be able to fit a 120 at the back?


you cannot mount any 240+ rad thicker than 40mm (+25mm fan) in the top. the length of any 360 rad ~413mm or less, if mounted as far to the front of the case as possible, will allow any 120/140 rad up to 45mm (+25mm fan) to go on the rear mount.


----------



## BarneyRubble

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kennyj*
> 
> I'm trying to figure out a rad configuration for my incoming Primo SE that could handle an Intel CPU + 2x SLI with minimal fuss. I don't intend to use SLI in the near-term, but it seems like it's a possibility I may have to plan for in the long run.
> 
> Would I be correct in assuming that the reason that a number of people tend to use 280 rads for the bottom is that anything larger would obstruct the built-in pump mount? Is there any other caveat to putting something like a 420 or 480 Monsta in the bottom?
> 
> Many people also seem to be using the XSPC EX-480 on the top, where otherwise 420 rads like the Alphacool XT45 seem popular. I can only assume that the larger surface area of the 480 is an advantage even despite the EX-480 being slimmer than most. Is there a reason why this particular rad is popular, other than lower cost? Do 45mm-thick top rads tend to have more clearance issues?
> 
> I haven't done any case modding in many years (close to 10) but I'm no stranger to the Dremel. I'm hoping to keep that to a minimum, but I have no qualms about getting my hands dirty.


I just finished (99%) my build. I thought I'd share my experience, maybe something will help. I have 2 GPUs in SLI and went with PETG. I was pretty aggressive for my first water cooling build but I'm VERY happy with it. This is what I did...

1) xt45 360 in the top... (6 fans, push/pull) It limits what you can put in the top drive bay. Leaves top access for the bays and filling the res.
2) UT60 480 in the bottom (8 fans, push/pull). You can drain the loop by removing the front bottom fan.
3) I had to modify the reservoir bracket for the SLI.
4) Reservoir... The Photon 170 won't fit at 75 diameter. I bought the bitspower (60 diameter) and it fits. I put in the 150. The holes match the holes in the bracket.
5) I could have put the pump in the 'rear' with the power supply, but I didn't. I decided to remove the HDD cage (actually both are removed) and mount the HD in the 5.25 bay. It's a 'backup' drive as I have an Intel 750 as the primary drive. With both HDD cages out, I mounted the pump on the last fan (EK has a nice bracket for this). The pump lierally sits next to the res but is hidden.

There are 14 'rad' fans. I am also using 2 fans in the front, 2 in the side and then the rear exhaust fan. The rear fan is my only exhaust fan. My ASUS MB supports PWM on all the fan headers so the rad fans barely run at all. The 5 case fans are DC controlled and run a little faster. I control them with a Koolance ctr-cd1224 which gives me temps and water flow as well.

My CPU is a 5960x running at 4.0 (I haven't done any major OC yet) and I have yet to see the CPU temp above 41c. Not counting the GPU and CPU sensors, I have 5 case sensors and 3 water sensors. ASUS is good for temp headers, plus the ctr-cd1224 adds 3 more headers. The water temp hasn't gone past 34c yet and it quickly cools off (27c) after testing. I'm amazed how cool and quiet the rig is. I would have never thunk it.









I was worried about only having one exhaust fan. That worry is gone. Of course I have more testing to do and will push it a little harder.


----------



## Faster_is_better

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BarneyRubble*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *kennyj*
> 
> I'm trying to figure out a rad configuration for my incoming Primo SE that could handle an Intel CPU + 2x SLI with minimal fuss. I don't intend to use SLI in the near-term, but it seems like it's a possibility I may have to plan for in the long run.
> 
> Would I be correct in assuming that the reason that a number of people tend to use 280 rads for the bottom is that anything larger would obstruct the built-in pump mount? Is there any other caveat to putting something like a 420 or 480 Monsta in the bottom?
> 
> Many people also seem to be using the XSPC EX-480 on the top, where otherwise 420 rads like the Alphacool XT45 seem popular. I can only assume that the larger surface area of the 480 is an advantage even despite the EX-480 being slimmer than most. Is there a reason why this particular rad is popular, other than lower cost? Do 45mm-thick top rads tend to have more clearance issues?
> 
> I haven't done any case modding in many years (close to 10) but I'm no stranger to the Dremel. I'm hoping to keep that to a minimum, but I have no qualms about getting my hands dirty.
> 
> 
> 
> I just finished (99%) my build. I thought I'd share my experience, maybe something will help. I have 2 GPUs in SLI and went with PETG. I was pretty aggressive for my first water cooling build but I'm VERY happy with it. This is what I did...
> 
> 1) xt45 360 in the top... (6 fans, push/pull) It limits what you can put in the top drive bay. Leaves top access for the bays and filling the res.
> 2) UT60 480 in the bottom (8 fans, push/pull). You can drain the loop by removing the front bottom fan.
> 3) I had to modify the reservoir bracket for the SLI.
> 4) Reservoir... The Photon 170 won't fit at 75 diameter. I bought the bitspower (60 diameter) and it fits. I put in the 150. The holes match the holes in the bracket.
> 5) I could have put the pump in the 'rear' with the power supply, but I didn't. I decided to remove the HDD cage (actually both are removed) and mount the HD in the 5.25 bay. It's a 'backup' drive as I have an Intel 750 as the primary drive. With both HDD cages out, I mounted the pump on the last fan (EK has a nice bracket for this). The pump lierally sits next to the res but is hidden.
> 
> There are 14 'rad' fans. I am also using 2 fans in the front, 2 in the side and then the rear exhaust fan. The rear fan is my only exhaust fan. My ASUS MB supports PWM on all the fan headers so the rad fans barely run at all. The 5 case fans are DC controlled and run a little faster. I control them with a Koolance ctr-cd1224 which gives me temps and water flow as well.
> 
> My CPU is a 5960x running at 4.0 (I haven't done any major OC yet) and I have yet to see the CPU temp above 41c. Not counting the GPU and CPU sensors, I have 5 case sensors and 3 water sensors. ASUS is good for temp headers, plus the ctr-cd1224 adds 3 more headers. The water temp hasn't gone past 34c yet and it quickly cools off (27c) after testing. I'm amazed how cool and quiet the rig is. I would have never thunk it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was worried about only having one exhaust fan. That worry is gone. Of course I have more testing to do and will push it a little harder.
Click to expand...

Have any pictures?


----------



## panozy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PureBlackFire*
> 
> yrs. front rad thickness has no limit and the 120 rad can be mounted as much as 150+mm away from the front of the case depending on how long your power supply is.
> you cannot mount any 240+ rad thicker than 40mm (+25mm fan) in the top. the length of any 360 rad ~413mm or less, if mounted as far to the front of the case as possible, will allow any 120/140 rad up to 45mm (+25mm fan) to go on the rear mount.


Ok, thank you very much. Would you think that a 360, a 240 and 2×120 will be enough for a 4790k(oc) and 2×980ti(oc)?


----------



## kennyj

So, on the topic of 120mm radiator fans to go in that Primo... it's not easy finding solid information comparing, just lots of random anecdotes. I'm looking at the Corsair SP120 Quiet Edition, as well as the Phanteks PH-F120SP/MPs. Would I be correct in my understanding that between the two Phanteks, the F120MPs would be a better rad fan choice? Considering that two packs of 8 can actually be purchased for ~$210 from phanteksusa, or about $13.12 per fan, it would seem that the Phanteks are the deal to beat... but most of the data I can find seems to concern the 140mm version of this fan. Does that enviable performance translate down to 120 or are there other options I should consider in the sub-$15/fan price range?

Companion question: What's the best way to handle 16 PWM fans, plus case fans? The Swiftech 8-way splitter seems like a good choice, and I can get it along with the UT60/XT45 480 rads from frozencpu. Assuming, of course, that the mobo has 2+ PWM headers.


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *panozy*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *PureBlackFire*
> 
> yrs. front rad thickness has no limit and the 120 rad can be mounted as much as 150+mm away from the front of the case depending on how long your power supply is.
> you cannot mount any 240+ rad thicker than 40mm (+25mm fan) in the top. the length of any 360 rad ~413mm or less, if mounted as far to the front of the case as possible, will allow any 120/140 rad up to 45mm (+25mm fan) to go on the rear mount.
> 
> 
> 
> Ok, thank you very much. Would you think that a 360, a 240 and 2×120 will be enough for a 4790k(oc) and 2×980ti(oc)?
Click to expand...

Yes it would be enough.


----------



## owcraftsman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kennyj*
> 
> I'm trying to figure out a rad configuration for my incoming Primo SE that could handle an Intel CPU + 2x SLI with minimal fuss. I don't intend to use SLI in the near-term, but it seems like it's a possibility I may have to plan for in the long run.
> 
> Would I be correct in assuming that the reason that a number of people tend to use 280 rads for the bottom is that anything larger would obstruct the built-in pump mount? Is there any other caveat to putting something like a 420 or 480 Monsta in the bottom?
> 
> Many people also seem to be using the XSPC EX-480 on the top, where otherwise 420 rads like the Alphacool XT45 seem popular. I can only assume that the larger surface area of the 480 is an advantage even despite the EX-480 being slimmer than most. Is there a reason why this particular rad is popular, other than lower cost? Do 45mm-thick top rads tend to have more clearance issues?
> 
> I haven't done any case modding in many years (close to 10) but I'm no stranger to the Dremel. I'm hoping to keep that to a minimum, but I have no qualms about getting my hands dirty.


For me I chose a 420x65 in the top because the case comes with several decent 140mm fans that you can use on it reducing over all cost. All I had to do was buy a blue led and 2 regular 140s to do push pull. I know 45 thick is reccommended but the 65 worked fine in mine.


----------



## Faster_is_better

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kennyj*
> 
> So, on the topic of 120mm radiator fans to go in that Primo... it's not easy finding solid information comparing, just lots of random anecdotes. I'm looking at the Corsair SP120 Quiet Edition, as well as the Phanteks PH-F120SP/MPs. Would I be correct in my understanding that between the two Phanteks, the F120MPs would be a better rad fan choice? Considering that two packs of 8 can actually be purchased for ~$210 from phanteksusa, or about $13.12 per fan, it would seem that the Phanteks are the deal to beat... but most of the data I can find seems to concern the 140mm version of this fan. Does that enviable performance translate down to 120 or are there other options I should consider in the sub-$15/fan price range?
> 
> Companion question: What's the best way to handle 16 PWM fans, plus case fans? The Swiftech 8-way splitter seems like a good choice, and I can get it along with the UT60/XT45 480 rads from frozencpu. Assuming, of course, that the mobo has 2+ PWM headers.


The Corsair fans really aren't that good, people just buy them for the looks primarily and probably cost secondary.

The 140mm version of Phanteks fans are pretty good fans with decent static pressure, but there may be better options in the 120mm world. If you haven't looked at this thread, it may have some relevant info, but I'm not sure if the fans are tested against radiators on that thread.

The most popular rad fans as far as performance goes seem to be the EK Vardars or AP-15s.

Those Swiftech splitters should work as long as you your fans don't overload the power capacity of the splitter. It's rated for 30w. If you want to be creative you can pull a PWM signal from most GPU's, if your mobo doesn't have 2.

I actually am using both of my GPU to give signal to my PWM fans, and using mobo header for the pump and also tied in the Phanteks hub into that as well. Pretty cool to adjust fan speed via MSI Afterburner actually.


----------



## colinmcr

EVOLV ATX


----------



## doyll

Nicely done @colinmcr

I'm hoping to get one myself soon.


----------



## Faster_is_better

Can someone with a Primo check or confirm that their 2 pin fan extensions marked 3-6 actually provide power? I'm wondering if mine are broken, turning the switch on/off didn't seem to effect them and I have the 12v input plugged in.

According to the manual they are only for single led's at <100mA I guess? Would they be 12v or 5v then?


----------



## aralmoosafri

Hi guys,

I just received my EVOLV ATX and I had a couple questions:

PSU Mounting: As the vent is on the bottom, should I be mounting the PSU with the fan facing down? Seems a little odd having it upside down

Front fan mounting: I want to remove the two stock 140mm and replace them with 3 120mm. The problem is the fan mounts arent as simple as the 140mm mountings. The 120mm fan sits perfectly between the large (fat) mounts and the screws that were used for the stock 140mm go completely through them (i.e. how do I mount the 120mm fan to the front?)

see below picture for reference:



The small screw hole to the left of the fan fits the 140mm fan perfectly. Using it for the 120mm fan I am unable to attach the screws on the other side.

Do I need some sort of special screw to mount it?


----------



## aralmoosafri

Was able to do it by mounting it from the inside. Such a pain due to the angle and room inside the case.

I think I ruined more than half the screw heads trying to mount them properly


----------



## dman811

Most people mount a PSU so that the fan side is down.


----------



## Ghibli

*Phanteks Luxe*  VS  *Phanteks Pro*

*Luxe GPU*: 49c | *Pro GPU*: 42c
Is that 7c difference all from the LEDs?


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ghibli*
> 
> *Phanteks Luxe*  VS  *Phanteks Pro*
> 
> *Luxe GPU*: 49c | *Pro GPU*: 42c
> Is that 7c difference all from the LEDs?


it's from the front panel on the Pro being open. or maybe it's from different intake and ambient temps at the time of each review. maybe the fans were running at a lower speed on the Luxe. who's to say really.


----------



## Fickle Pickle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dman811*
> 
> You can fit a 240 in the front and a 120 in the bottom if you don't mind sacrificing your hard drive cages and PSU cover.


I actually fit a 240 in the front, 240 on the bottom, 120 rear, 360 top. XSPC EX series rads.


----------



## Mr0czny

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Acquire*
> 
> So, I got an Evolv ATX. It replaced my HAF X. I ended up going with an all air build after the H100i GTX I got failed almost immediately. Temperatures are fine. It looks great and is of good size, unlike my HAF X behemoth. The only problem is I have some weird rhythmic humming or something happening in the case. Can't pinpoint what's causing it. Tried various combinations of fans being on or off and it's still there. Almost seems like the mere presence of air flow is causing it. Although I can only really tell if there's complete silence around me. Outside of that, noise wise the case is pretty quiet, about the same as it was on the HAF X since under load it's the GPUs that make the most noise.
> 
> One thing to note for people looking into it with large PSUs (mine is a Corsair AX1200i). I ended up removing the bottom HDD cage because the only way I could fit the cables in there would've been to almost crush them into the tiny space. The whole bottom compartment is PSU area and I managed to throw an SSD in there as well.


Can you post temps of your GPU in games


----------



## Acquire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr0czny*
> 
> Can you post temps of your GPU in games


Under full load of a game (Mad Max and Witcher 3). GPU1 is at 82 C. GPU2 is at 74 C. Seems to be the average. CPU hovers around 64 C average.

I've actually now removed the top two fans as they were literally not doing anything for temps as far as I could tell. They were just bulky and in the way. I was primarily using them for their LED purposes anyway. I ordered a bitfenix magnetic led strip instead.


----------



## Ghibli

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PureBlackFire*
> 
> it's from the front panel on the Pro being open. or maybe it's from different intake and ambient temps at the time of each review. maybe the fans were running at a lower speed on the Luxe. who's to say really.


They do use the delta T temperature (difference between ambient and hardware temps) for those measurements. I wonder how accurate that is for comparison between varying ambient room temperatures.

Both tests use:
CPU: Intel Core i7-870 CPU overclocked to 3.4GHz
Graphics card: ATI Radeon HD 5870 1GB
Motherboard: Biostar TPower I55
RAM: 2 x 2GB OCZ 1,866MHz DDR3
SSD: Corsair Force GT 60GB
Hard drive: 160GB Seagate Barracuda 7200.9
Heatsink: Gelid Tranquillo with a Noctua NF-S12B ULN fan
Power supply: Antec Signature SG-650

And GPU-Z for measuring temps while running a combination of the Unigine Heaven benchmark and the Small FFT test in Prime 95.

Luxe fans: 200m Front, 140mm Top/Rear
Pro fans: 200m Front, 140mm Rear


----------



## Ghibli

I sent a message to bit tech about it, I'd probably support your suggestion of the front panel difference:
*Luxe* *Pro*


----------



## MrKoala

Why do people open large channels for cooling and then block it with a panel?


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ghibli*
> 
> *Phanteks Luxe*
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> VS  *Phanteks Pro*
> 
> *Luxe GPU*: 49c | *Pro GPU*: 42c
> 
> 
> 
> Is that 7c difference all from the LEDs?


No idea why or how they got that much difference, but I have a Luxe and everything runs less than 3c warmer than on my test bench. Only changes are PH-F200SP replaced with 2x PH-F140SP in front and 1x PH-F140SP bottom intake. Case is raised 35mm on caster base so better airflow to bottom, but temps only change 1-2c when off of base. Base also lowers noise level by lowering airflow restriction.

I have contemplated removing the panel from front vent, but if I do I would also remove the round hole mesh as it is also very restrictive .. and I haven't found a suitable grill replacement yet. I'm considering DEMCiflex Double 140mm ID magnetic mounting grill/filter (167x307mm OD). It comes in different colors to match needs.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrKoala*
> 
> Why do people open large channels for cooling and then block it with a panel?


Why do they use
mesh like this with 33-55% open area on front .. and mesh like this back that is quieter and has 64-81% open area.


----------



## Ghibli

Quote:


> bit-tech.net 5:40am Sep 10
> It is likely a combination of two things - firstly, the Pro is 25mm shallower than the Luxe, so the air from the front has less distance to travel before reaching the graphics card. Secondly, as you point out, the Luxe has a partially blocked front panel, which would impede the airflow compared to the Pro.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ghibli*


Quote:


> the Pro is 25mm shallower than the Luxe, so the air from the front has less distance to travel before reaching the graphics card.


Horse Pucky!! The total distance from fan to GPU is identical. Both use the exact same case with different front and top panels. And even if it was 25mm farther away we would not see that much difference. Whoever used that rational is .. nevermind.








Quote:


> the Luxe has a partially blocked front panel, which would impede the airflow compared to the Pro.


While true, this is only part of what i see as the cause. I do not think the PH-F200SP fan is up to the task of pulling air through any restriction .. and definitely not up to the task on the Luxe, Add to this the mounting tabs for 120 & 140mm fans block a significant amount of the 200mm fan's airflow area. I love my case, but am using 2x PH-F140SP in front.


----------



## MrKoala

The single 200 fan looks cool though. (Would be cooler without the 120/140 mounts).

Is there any powerful 200 fan that fits here and has white blades?


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ghibli*
> 
> bit-tech.net 5:40am Sep 10
> It is likely a combination of two things - firstly, the Pro is 25mm shallower than the Luxe, so the air from the front has less distance to travel before reaching the graphics card. Secondly, as you point out, the Luxe has a partially blocked front panel, which would impede the airflow compared to the Pro.


They actually published that?









As @doyll pointed out, that is not correct.....and it is a really misguided statement even if it was.


----------



## SirJim

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> No idea why or how they got that much difference, but I have a Luxe and everything runs less than 3c warmer than on my test bench. Only changes are PH-F200SP replaced with 2x PH-F140SP in front and 1x PH-F140SP bottom intake. Case is raised 35mm on caster base so better airflow to bottom, but temps only change 1-2c when off of base. Base also lowers noise level by lowering airflow restriction.
> 
> I have contemplated removing the panel from front vent, but if I do I would also remove the round hole mesh as it is also very restrictive .. and I haven't found a suitable grill replacement yet. I'm considering DEMCiflex Double 140mm ID magnetic mounting grill/filter (167x307mm OD). It comes in different colors to match needs.


I also am going to be ordering the Double 140mm ID filter for the front for my Luxe. I have also added some very fine fabric to the bottom filters so they will catch the finer dust particles.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrKoala*
> 
> The single 200 fan looks cool though. (Would be cooler without the 120/140 mounts).
> 
> Is there any powerful 200 fan that fits here and has white blades?


The area of metal only in the 120/140 mounting is blocking 17% of the 200mm fan's area. And area is not the total restriction, the turbulence created by the frame and holes greatly increases the resistance to airflow..
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> They actually published that?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As @doyll pointed out, that is not correct.....and it is a really misguided statement even if it was.


Adding 25mm to the depth of case would have so little effect on cooling it couldn't be measured. Same as standing 24" from a fan or 25" from it. At least I can't tell any difference.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SirJim*
> 
> I also am going to be ordering the Double 140mm ID filter for the front for my Luxe. I have also added some very fine fabric to the bottom filters so they will catch the finer dust particles.


I've found the stock filters to be quite good. It's a balancing act between restriction and catching dust. We have to sacrifice some dust catching to keep the resistance at a reasonable level.


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fickle Pickle*
> 
> I actually fit a 240 in the front, 240 on the bottom, 120 rear, 360 top. XSPC EX series rads.


can i see pics of how that looks please?








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ghibli*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> bit-tech.net 5:40am Sep 10
> It is likely a combination of two things - firstly, the Pro is 25mm shallower than the Luxe, so the air from the front has less distance to travel before reaching the graphics card. Secondly, as you point out, the Luxe has a partially blocked front panel, which would impede the airflow compared to the Pro.
Click to expand...

the Luxe is 25mm taller than the Pro, not deeper at all. the Luxe has a higher delta than the 750D in those charts so right away I discount it. I own both cases, and did a couple of system swaps. both cou and gpu temps in the Luxe are better with the default configuration out of the box. I do suggest using two 140mm fans in the front anyway (possibly with additional bottom intake fan and fans on the hard drive cages). this is the best intake setup with these cases.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PureBlackFire*
> 
> the Luxe is 25mm taller than the Pro, not deeper at all. the Luxe has a higher delta than the 750D in those charts so right away I discount it. I own both cases, and did a couple of system swaps. both cou and gpu temps in the Luxe are better with the default configuration out of the box. I do suggest using two 140mm fans in the front anyway (possibly with additional bottom intake fan and fans on the hard drive cages). this is the best intake setup with these cases.


Indeed, Luxe outside measurement are both taller and deeper than Pro, but the actual metal cases are the same. The added height is in the thicker plastic top and front is in the thicker plastic front.

I'm going to play with blocking the top vent o my Luxe to see what the difference in airflow pattern and temps are. I doubt it will make much if any difference with 2x front & 1x bottom intakes.


----------



## darklimits

Has anybody been able to fit 2 x 360 radiators or a 360 and 240 in the phanteks Enthoo Pro. What's the maximum thickness radiator I can fit in the case.


----------



## kennyj

On the Primo, I'm going to be putting a UT60 in the bottom, XT45 in the top, both 480mm. What's the best practice for setting up fill/drain ports? The idea of using QDCs everywhere has a lot of appeal to me (rearrange anything I want without draining the loop? Sounds good to me...) but can I actually fit them in this case using 480 rads? Should I plan on having external ports and if so, what are some good options that won't stand out and look like crap?


----------



## maskymus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kennyj*
> 
> On the Primo, I'm going to be putting a UT60 in the bottom, XT45 in the top, both 480mm. What's the best practice for setting up fill/drain ports? The idea of using QDCs everywhere has a lot of appeal to me (rearrange anything I want without draining the loop? Sounds good to me...) but can I actually fit them in this case using 480 rads? Should I plan on having external ports and if so, what are some good options that won't stand out and look like crap?


The best practice is to use the lowest port available in the loop for easy drain, fill port is usually set on the res. In your case the best drain port would be at the bottom rad (with UT60 you have plenty of ports to organize the drain).


----------



## kennyj

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *maskymus*
> 
> The best practice is to use the lowest port available in the loop for easy drain, fill port is usually set on the res. In your case the best drain port would be at the bottom rad (with UT60 you have plenty of ports to organize the drain).


If you have a rad that's above the res, wouldn't it make more sense to put a fill port on the rad? I figured a QDC on the top rad would probably be ideal; I could have a hose that just connects to it, and I could shove a funnel in the opposite end of that hose. Same with the bottom rad - hook up a hose and neatly drain right into the sink, no disassembly required.


----------



## Faster_is_better

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kennyj*
> 
> On the Primo, I'm going to be putting a UT60 in the bottom, XT45 in the top, both 480mm. What's the best practice for setting up fill/drain ports? The idea of using QDCs everywhere has a lot of appeal to me (rearrange anything I want without draining the loop? Sounds good to me...) but can I actually fit them in this case using 480 rads? Should I plan on having external ports and if so, what are some good options that won't stand out and look like crap?


Here is mine, same rad in bottom of case. I did use 38mm thick fans though so I just had enough clearance to do this...


Works really slick though, it swivels out of the way when not needed. Just a EK rotary 90 to a male/male to a bitspower valve with a cap on end.

If you do a bit of modification to the front mesh you can actually stick one straight off the end, you just lose that fan (not that it would probably be useful anyway).


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fickle Pickle*
> 
> I actually fit a 240 in the front, 240 on the bottom, 120 rear, 360 top. XSPC EX series rads.


I actually had a 280 alphacool st30 in the bottom but depending on psu it might not fit it was extremely tight I had the psu leads ran between and around the hoses...but I've since moved the 280 to the top with h220x in the front and a 240 in the bottom...made things much easier to connect and manage..but to do so I have 0 cages hd or optical

I really want to water cool my fiance pc but then I would have two loops to maintain...I have enough of a time trying to talk myself into maintenance on just my loop lol


----------



## Dorito Bandit

Enthoo Pro M



We need to see some builds in the Enthoo Pro M case! If you own this case, show us your build.


----------



## Ghibli

I asked Phantek about the panel blocking airflow on the luxe and received a reply: "The aluminum insert can be removed."



Is this how it looks when you do that and can you remove the plastic bracket?


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ghibli*
> 
> I asked Phantek about the panel blocking airflow on the luxe and received a reply: "The aluminum insert can be removed."
> 
> 
> 
> Is this how it looks when you do that and can you remove the plastic bracket?


That is with both the panel and grill mesh removed.

I'll try and take some pics of front tomorrow and post them.


----------



## Fickle Pickle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PureBlackFire*
> 
> can i see pics of how that looks please?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


Sure, just snapped a quick cell phone pic of it. To say the least, I literally barely had room for both rads.


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fickle Pickle*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *PureBlackFire*
> 
> can i see pics of how that looks please?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> 
> 
> Sure, just snapped a quick cell phone pic of it. To say the least, I literally barely had room for both rads.
Click to expand...

nice. sorry to trouble you for pics, but can you snap a pic from the rear panel side when you get a chance? and what rads and power supply are you using?


----------



## seithan

Hello,

Ive removed the bottom hdd cage and kept the upper one, but i think the overflow is still lacking.

Half the front 200mm fan is blocked by the upper hdd cage and while i placed a bottom one (included in the box and i think original meant to be on the top), my GPU is still getting a hit on temperature and not easy to cool it down even at 100% fan speed - both for GPU and the case.

On the top i have the H100i as exhaust with the fans from the inside and on the back i use the stock case fun blowing air inside.

What can i do to create a free flow case?

Remove the case and mount the HDDs on the 5.25 slots with mount brackets?

Cut a fan window on the glass panel at the side?


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seithan*
> 
> Hello,
> 
> Ive removed the bottom hdd cage and kept the upper one, but i think the overflow is still lacking.
> 
> Half the front 200mm fan is blocked by the upper hdd cage and while i placed a bottom one (included in the box and i think original meant to be on the top), my GPU is still getting a hit on temperature and not easy to cool it down even at 100% fan speed - both for GPU and the case.
> 
> On the top i have the H100i as exhaust with the fans from the inside and on the back i use the stock case fun blowing air inside.
> 
> What can i do to create a free flow case?
> 
> Remove the case and mount the HDDs on the 5.25 slots with mount brackets?
> 
> Cut a fan window on the glass panel at the side?


what case do you have? guessing Pro or Luxe. you say you have the H100i as an exhaust and another top mounted fan as an intake? that's a problem so you need to change that. what gpu do you have and what are the high temps at 100% fan speed? you'd do best to use a pair of 140 mm intake fans in the front and if you leave a HDD cage in it can't hurt to put a 120mm fan on that.

edit: you are using the rear mount as an intake I see. try making it an exhaust.


----------



## seithan

Hi pureblack.I own the Luxe edition.

I have a 2500k OCed mildly to 4k and a GTX980 G1, heavilly OCed to 1500/8000.

The situation gets ok when i push all the funs at top speed, including the funs from H100i.

I still think that not much air reaches the GPU, atleast immidiate, since the bloody cage blocks half the front intake.

I see some variations of using a bottom fan very close to the PSU, but i dont see any holes lining for the stock Luxe fan. So i have said fan at the bottom but where the bottom HDD cage used to be, just to get some more air in the box. But none hit the GPU straight up.

Also i read that i can use the cage as an internal mount for a fan, is that true? Maybe i could remove the bottom fan and mount it on the bracket, infront of the big 200 intake, would that make any difference or would it block the airflow even more?

Edit: i think i lowered my temps a bit lower while using the rear fan as intake aswell. Just need to make a filter for it.


----------



## PureBlackFire

hmm... when I initially moved my parts into the Luxe I had a R9 290 Tri x and the H100i. I tested with the H100i as exhaust and intake with both hard drive cages in at first. my gpu temps never went above 75c. I also had a gtx970 twin frozr and a reference GTX980 not too long ago before stepping up to a 980ti (had since changed to a pair of 140's for front intake and a 120 for bottom intake). half my front intake is blocked by the reservoir and bracket but no high gpu temps. the case has holes for the 140mm fans close to the psu in the bottom. what are your gpu temps? is it above 80c with that gpu?


----------



## seithan

Tbh my GPU hardly peaks beyond 70c. There are times though that it even hits 75c or higher. Those times i must confess, the ambience was really high in the room as in 34c room temperature (93-95F).

I usually play at 30-32 in the summer though, while its not the most pleasant thing in the world, its tolerant but comes with a hard hit for the system.

To keep them high overclocks on the GPU, i have to keep all the case fans and H100i fans at maximum speed. and the drawback is the noise. Sadly WC the card is not an option









Hence im looking for cheaper alternatives to keep the box cooler, even a few degrees lower do make a difference when it comes to stability.

The cheapest way in my opinion is to remove the cage alltogether and replace the HDDs within the top of the box, at the 5.25 bays.Maybe ill give it a shot and see what comes out of it.

Do you know what the area next to the expansions slots, on the box, supposed to accept? Is it for WC reservoirs?


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seithan*
> 
> Hi pureblack.I own the Luxe edition.
> 
> I have a 2500k OCed mildly to 4k and a GTX980 G1, heavilly OCed to 1500/8000.
> 
> The situation gets ok when i push all the funs at top speed, including the funs from H100i.
> 
> I still think that not much air reaches the GPU, atleast immidiate, since the bloody cage blocks half the front intake.
> 
> I see some variations of using a bottom fan very close to the PSU, but i dont see any holes lining for the stock Luxe fan. So i have said fan at the bottom but where the bottom HDD cage used to be, just to get some more air in the box. But none hit the GPU straight up.
> 
> Also i read that i can use the cage as an internal mount for a fan, is that true? Maybe i could remove the bottom fan and mount it on the bracket, infront of the big 200 intake, would that make any difference or would it block the airflow even more?
> 
> Edit: i think i lowered my temps a bit lower while using the rear fan as intake aswell. Just need to make a filter for it.


Generally speaking you can lower your temperatures by going for a negative pressure in your case, and while using a rear mounted fan will provide fresh air for the radiator, it will not help for the general temperature of the case. So depending on what temperatures you wish to improve you can likely gain a bit for your GPU by using the rear fan as exhaust rather than intake and due to the placement you would get better CPU temps by using it as intake. I may be a bit off base on this one, but it is at least how it is in theory. A good way to improve flow in your case for at least the GPU is to jsut place a lower RPM fan angled towards the GPU between the HDD cage and the GPU. As for improving flow in regards to the cages... the top one is very likely a much larger hindrance than the bottom one due to the PSU shroud, so if you can then I would just use the bottom one as it really isn't in the way of anything (looks that way anyway).

Although I am severely lacking in actual data compared to some members who frequent this thread, I tend to have a rule of thumb which is placing and removing obstacles to divert the air where I want it. So placing a fan angled toward the GPU to give some fresh air to it and removing the top HDD cage instead of the bottom one due to it being more of a hindrance. It may not do all that much and if you use AIOs and air cooling you will struggle to gain really excellent temperatures when you have a room temperature of 35*c (although I can certainly understand your situation going by the mentioned location of your profile).


----------



## seithan

I changed the placement ohf both bottom fan and the hdd cage and monitoring any temperature improvements.

Thanx again!


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seithan*
> 
> Tbh my GPU hardly peaks beyond 70c. There are times though that it even hits 75c or higher. Those times i must confess, the ambience was really high in the room as in 34c room temperature (93-95F).
> 
> I usually play at 30-32 in the summer though, while its not the most pleasant thing in the world, its tolerant but comes with a hard hit for the system.
> 
> To keep them high overclocks on the GPU, i have to keep all the case fans and H100i fans at maximum speed. and the drawback is the noise. Sadly WC the card is not an option
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hence im looking for cheaper alternatives to keep the box cooler, even a few degrees lower do make a difference when it comes to stability.
> 
> The cheapest way in my opinion is to remove the cage alltogether and replace the HDDs within the top of the box, at the 5.25 bays.Maybe ill give it a shot and see what comes out of it.
> 
> Do you know what the area next to the expansions slots, on the box, supposed to accept? Is it for WC reservoirs?


and here I was under the impression you had a temp issue haha. but seriously, 70c with 100% fan is pretty high. the way I have my case setup is the hard drive cages are out, I have a 3.5" to 5.25" bay adapter with my 3TB drive in there and two 140mm in the front with a 120mm in the bottom as intake fans. I also went away fron the H100i because of the noise level.


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seithan*
> 
> I changed the placement ohf both bottom fan and the hdd cage and monitoring any temperature improvements.
> 
> Thanx again!


Hopefully you will see some difference in temps at the very least. Let me ask you something... Do you have any left over 140mm fans? Placing a couple of those Phanteks 140mm fans in the front instead of the 200mm may give you better results if the 200mm is to restricted in it's current position that is if you want to try different setups.


----------



## seithan

I think i have some dirty old 120mm lying around. They are loud and not really quality so i prefer not to include them in the equation.

Next step is to move the HDDs on the 5.25 and remove the cage all together. Cheap mod that should work allright, like PBF did.

Thanks to both of you guys!


----------



## 5pellfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dorito Bandit*
> 
> Enthoo Pro M
> 
> 
> 
> We need to see some builds in the Enthoo Pro M case! If you own this case, show us your build.


Here you go ...the build was completed last Sunday ...replaced Sharkoon Rebel 12 tower with water cooling for this:

Front with Lamptron FC4 fan controller (only 2 channels are used):


Replaced today with the older Sunbeam Rheobus with new (black art paper) front and recessed, so that the knobs are flush with the front:


Plan is to replace the default metal mesh and dust filter with a Demciflex filter (much better dust filtration) ...this is the dust filter from the
old case, so it is a little to big, but these things are not cheap so I might use this one instead on ordering a new one that fits better:


(unfiltered) vent slits on the front were covered by using the black art paper and tape ...could look better but it's on the inside:


Front view without the bezel ...3x Gentle Typhoon AP-15 (1850rpm):


GT's from the back:


Side view with panel on (I sit on the right side so the window cover is still on), side slits on the front bezel are covered with the
black art paper:


Inside view ...Gentle Typhoons on the front and the back fan (Phanteks PH-F140SP) are controlled by the fan controller,
CPU fans (Thermalright TY-147A) on Thermalright True Spirit 140 BW Rev. A are PWM controlled:


Thermalright TY-147A on the True Spirit:


Back view ...HDD cage in the front section is removed (I don't see a point in wasting airflow to cool the
HDD cage) and the HDD is installed on rubber stubs, SSD hangs from rubber strips ...


All in all, a great case for the money (it cost me 75 Euro).
Side panels are not as flexible as was shown in on-line reviews and don't rattle when the case
is closed.


----------



## seithan

Btw can the front hard mesh be removed or cut out to improve airflow?


----------



## emsj86

If anyone is local to philadelphia pa. Just built my new pc in a caselabs sm8 so my enthoo pro with custom windows is for sale. 45 dollars for local pick up. Or u can send just the side panel out by mail for 50 usd shipping included. Sorry for posting but figure someone may need a enthoo pro and can't beat 45 dollars custom acrylic was 80 by itself


----------



## 5pellfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seithan*
> 
> Btw can the front hard mesh be removed or cut out to improve airflow?


If you are asking in regard to the Enthoo Pro M then yes, the metal mesh can be removed by unscrewing few screws ...screen #4
Dust filter is placed on top of this screws and locked by stubs/pins on each side.


----------



## seithan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *5pellfire*
> 
> If you are asking in regard to the Enthoo Pro M then yes, the metal mesh can be removed by unscrewing few screws ...screen #4
> Dust filter is placed on top of this screws and locked by stubs/pins on each side.


The Luxe case has a separate removable filter on the front. I think the metal mesh is a bit too much imo. Ill try to remove it tomorrow and see how it goes.


----------



## Acquire

For anyone that ends up having weird humming issues with their fans on the Evolv ATX. Quick update on my Evolv ATX. Turns out the fan hub was causing the fans to hum. Once I connected them to the motherboard directly and properly configured them there it's dead silent. I actually prefer this method since I can use Asus' fan xpert thing to properly control them all.


----------



## NFL

Will the 200mm Bitfenix Spectre Pro fit in the Evolv ITX?


----------



## NinjaDuck

Quick question: In regards to the 140mm slot at the bottom of the luxe, does it have to be mounted further back under the PSU shroud or does it fit further forward? I do see 2 small holes near the front that appear to be 140 spaced but they are much narrower than the larger elongated holes further back.


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NinjaDuck*
> 
> Quick question: In regards to the 140mm slot at the bottom of the luxe, does it have to be mounted further back under the PSU shroud or does it fit further forward? I do see 2 small holes near the front that appear to be 140 spaced but they are much narrower than the larger elongated holes further back.


those small holes near the front are uselss as they can't fit fan screws.you can mount a 140mm fan there, but you'll need a way to secure it on the front side.


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NFL*
> 
> Will the 200mm Bitfenix Spectre Pro fit in the Evolv ITX?






It would be difficult, there is a cutout in the frame the exact shape of the 200mm Phanteks fan, so the extra mounting hardware on the Bitfenix would be in the way.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NinjaDuck*
> 
> Quick question: In regards to the 140mm slot at the bottom of the luxe, does it have to be mounted further back under the PSU shroud or does it fit further forward? I do see 2 small holes near the front that appear to be 140 spaced but they are much narrower than the larger elongated holes further back.


What PureBlackFire said.









The holes are not only too small, but are 122mm apart. 140mm fan mounting is 124.5mm


----------



## Faster_is_better

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Faster_is_better*
> 
> Can someone with a Primo check or confirm that their 2 pin fan extensions marked 3-6 actually provide power? I'm wondering if mine are broken, turning the switch on/off didn't seem to effect them and I have the 12v input plugged in.
> 
> According to the manual they are only for single led's at <100mA I guess? Would they be 12v or 5v then?


bump


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Faster_is_better*
> 
> bump


I can tell you that my 2-pin LED extensions provide power when the switch is on. They likely do not provide enough amperage to run fans, and could damage the circuit attempting to do so.


----------



## Faster_is_better

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Faster_is_better*
> 
> bump
> 
> 
> 
> I can tell you that my 2-pin LED extensions provide power when the switch is on. They likely do not provide enough amperage to run fans, and could damage the circuit attempting to do so.
Click to expand...

I know originally the 140mm fans that came with it, and plugged in to power LED, did work, maybe something broke while I was modding the case.

I just wanted to power a Darkside LED strip from it, requires 12v but not a lot of amperage. The Darkside power connector actually fits into those JST connectors, so I thought it was pretty slick, except that they don't give any juice in my case...


----------



## dkevox

^^ I'll try to check tonight for you man. Doesn't make much sense for you to not get 12v across those pins when the switch is on, so my thought would be that something is broken.

However, you could always get a dark-side splitter cable and just run multiple LED strips off one of the connectors that is still working.


----------



## Faster_is_better

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dkevox*
> 
> ^^ I'll try to check tonight for you man. Doesn't make much sense for you to not get 12v across those pins when the switch is on, so my thought would be that something is broken.
> 
> However, you could always get a dark-side splitter cable and just run multiple LED strips off one of the connectors that is still working.


There are plenty of options to hook it up, but I just took a look at those connectors and they were actually compatible, thought that would be pretty slick to tie the strip into the button as well.


----------



## NFL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rfarmer*
> 
> It would be difficult, there is a cutout in the frame the exact shape of the 200mm Phanteks fan, so the extra mounting hardware on the Bitfenix would be in the way.


Bummer...in that case, can someone recommend me a good pair of 140mm fans for front intake?


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NFL*
> 
> Bummer...in that case, can someone recommend me a good pair of 140mm fans for front intake?


There are tons of good 140mm fans, the Phanteks PH-F140SP that comes with the case is one of them. As for others... It all depends on the price and what you are looking for, do you want radiator fans or just fans for moving air in to your case, and so on...

Edit: That said, I figured I would simply repost what I wrote in my AIO guide concerning 140mm fans:

The following fans are far from cheap but should perform quite well:


Spoiler: 140mm:



While there are plenty of high quality static pressure fans in the 120mm size range, there is less so within the 140mm size range. I will list some that people do tend to swear to, and a couple that has been promised a release in 2015. While some of these do perform well, and the added area of a 140mm radiator adds a lot to the efficiency. The 140mm fans that I will mention do tend to have significantly lower static pressure than their 120mm counterparts. As such, many do actually decide to mount 120mm fans on a 140mm radiator using a shroud like this.

First fan I will mention is an old and trusted fan, it's the Noctua NF-P14s redux. This is the same fan as the older high end NF-P14, it's just a new and cheaper alternative with a regular 140mm frame (not to mention it's grey and not brown). It can be found in a PWM editon, a 1200RPM editon and a 900RPM edition.
Then we have yet another Noctua fan, it is what Noctua themselves will recommend. Namely the NF-A14, this fan is by no means bad. It performs about the same as the P14, but does cost a bit more than the redux edition. IT comes in several editions including a PWM edition, a ULN edition (ultra low noise) and a regular version.
The third alternative I want to mention is the Phanteks PH-F140SP, it is Phanteks' answer to a static pressure optimised fan in the 140mm segment. It performs about the same as the previously mentioned fans, so it is a good alternative for a good 140mm fan. It is also installed as stock in all Phanteks cases.
Then we have the Cougar Vortex series fans that I do see a lot of people use, they have decent performance and should do well on a radiator.
Now with the Corsair SP140, we are talking about a fan that Corsair swears will be released soon. Still we don't have any data on this, but their SP120 series has done well, and the fact that it's named SP140 and not AF140 means they will focus on static pressure on this one. The Corsair H110i GT is the first product to be released with these fans. Sure it's in their bundled L edition, but it should be fairly similar to what the retail version will be.
Good News, EK has released their 140mm Vardar fans. At the moment we only have access to 1 version of the fan, which is the EK-Vardar F1-140 running at 1150RPM. The currentspecs and graphs that I have seen point towards a very good fan that is able to perform well while still keeping the noise level at a minimum.
There is also another gem that I stumbled across, namely the new Noiseblocker Eloop 140mm. You get them in 3 different volt regulated fans at 600, 900 and 1400 rpm as well as a PWM enabled fan rated at max 1200 RPM. This fan seems to be a good contestant for this use and if it's anything like the 120mm eloopps, then I can personally testify that it's indeed VERY silent. Keep your eyes on this one.




Then there is ofcourse Cyclops' thread about the matter at hand: http://www.overclock.net/t/1274407/fans-the-most-complete-and-comprehensive-array-of-tests-and-benchmarks/0_30


----------



## seithan

I came back to say that indeed my temperatures lowered quite a bit! I also removed the metal mesh from the front panel to make a less restrictive intake.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seithan*
> 
> I changed the placement ohf both bottom fan and the hdd cage and monitoring any temperature improvements.
> 
> Thanx again!


I think i have some dirty old 120mm lying around. They are loud and not really quality so i prefer not to include them in the equation.

Next step is to move the HDDs on the 5.25 and remove the cage all together. Cheap mod that should work allright, like PBF did.

Thanks to both of you guys!


----------



## PureBlackFire

the fan on the bottom of your case is facing down making it an exhaust. flip it around so it's on intake.


----------



## Dorito Bandit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *5pellfire*
> 
> Here you go ...the build was completed last Sunday ...replaced Sharkoon Rebel 12 tower with water cooling for this:
> 
> Front with Lamptron FC4 fan controller (only 2 channels are used):
> 
> 
> Replaced today with the older Sunbeam Rheobus with new (black art paper) front and recessed, so that the knobs are flush with the front:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Plan is to replace the default metal mesh and dust filter with a Demciflex filter (much better dust filtration) ...this is the dust filter from the
> old case, so it is a little to big, but these things are not cheap so I might use this one instead on ordering a new one that fits better:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (unfiltered) vent slits on the front were covered by using the black art paper and tape ...could look better but it's on the inside:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Front view without the bezel ...3x Gentle Typhoon AP-15 (1850rpm):
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> GT's from the back:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Side view with panel on (I sit on the right side so the window cover is still on), side slits on the front bezel are covered with the
> black art paper:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Inside view ...Gentle Typhoons on the front and the back fan (Phanteks PH-F140SP) are controlled by the fan controller,
> CPU fans (Thermalright TY-147A) on Thermalright True Spirit 140 BW Rev. A are PWM controlled:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thermalright TY-147A on the True Spirit:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Back view ...HDD cage in the front section is removed (I don't see a point in wasting airflow to cool the
> HDD cage) and the HDD is installed on rubber stubs, SSD hangs from rubber strips ...
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All in all, a great case for the money (it cost me 75 Euro).
> Side panels are not as flexible as was shown in on-line reviews and don't rattle when the case
> is closed.


Very nice build. Does the case feel sturdy?

Thank you for posting.


----------



## zerophase

Awhile back I saw that someone replaced the solid blue led on their Enthoo Primo with one that does multiple colors. I was just wondering what they used for that mode. I'm guessing you just unplug Phantek's strip and plug the other led strip in.


----------



## seithan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PureBlackFire*
> 
> the fan on the bottom of your case is facing down making it an exhaust. flip it around so it's on intake.


Thanx i figured it out soon enough. The photo was taken prior the corrections.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seithan*
> 
> Thanx i figured it out soon enough. The photo was taken prior the corrections.


if ever in doubt... ive never seen a fan that didnt blow towards the label...most are also marked on the frame the flow direction and rotation direction


----------



## doyll

Simplest way to know which way fans move air is the side with frame holding motor is the exhaust side of fan.


----------



## MrKoala

Or look at the blades. The concave side pushes air.


----------



## 5pellfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dorito Bandit*
> 
> Very nice build. Does the case feel sturdy?
> 
> Thank you for posting.


Yes, very sturdy. Side panels are a little bit flexible, but not much (was exprecting worse from the reviews).
The case itself is very sturdy even without the side panels installed ...the psu shroud helps significantly I believe.


----------



## DopplerShift

Can anyone water cooling in an Enthoo EVOLV ATX tell me what kind of radiator clearances I can expect? I plan to run a 360 rad on top and a 280 on front that will align with the intake case fans, but I am not sure on thickness. If I mount the front 280 on the bottom (removing the PSU shroud cover) to align with the case fans, it should leave enough room for a 60mm 360 rad on top in pull and for a small tube res/pump combo like the EK Revo D5 below it, at least according to videos I've watched, but I want to get confirmation from someone with actual experiemce.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DopplerShift*
> 
> Can anyone water cooling in an Enthoo EVOLV ATX tell me what kind of radiator clearances I can expect? I plan to run a 360 rad on top and a 280 on front that will align with the intake case fans, but I am not sure on thickness. If I mount the front 280 on the bottom (removing the PSU shroud cover) to align with the case fans, it should leave enough room for a 60mm 360 rad on top in pull and for a small tube res/pump combo like the EK Revo D5 below it, at least according to videos I've watched, but I want to get confirmation from someone with actual experiemce.


----------



## DopplerShift

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*


Yeah I have seen this video, as I've mentioned








I was just wanting some confirmation from someone who owns the case, since he doesn't actually fit two 60mm rads in the configuration I want in that video, he just gives the approximate clearance as he sees it (he went for a thin 280 up top and a thin 240 at the front mounted above the shroud, while I want a 60mm 360 up top and a 60mm 280 at the front mounted below the shroud).


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DopplerShift*
> 
> Yeah I have seen this video, as I've mentioned
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was just wanting some confirmation from someone who owns the case, since he doesn't actually fit two 60mm rads in the configuration I want in that video, he just gives the approximate clearance as he sees it (he went for a thin 280 up top and a thin 240 at the front mounted above the shroud, while I want a 60mm 360 up top and a 60mm 280 at the front mounted below the shroud).


It's actually a 240 up top....









The 360 up top and 280 in the front fit with both being 60mm - however the top rad will likely have to be push or pull only,. Where you run into a problem with that configuration is if you want to use the front res mount - it will be extremely tight in that area.

If there is a specific measurement you are looking for, let me know.


----------



## Faster_is_better

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zerophase*
> 
> Awhile back I saw that someone replaced the solid blue led on their Enthoo Primo with one that does multiple colors. I was just wondering what they used for that mode. I'm guessing you just unplug Phantek's strip and plug the other led strip in.


To get the multiple colored led strips it takes one of those RGB strips. @maskymus did a really nice job of it and posted how to do it on his build log *here*.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Simplest way to know which way fans move air is the side with frame holding motor is the exhaust side of fan.


Most fans actually have little arrow symbols on the side of the frame that shows airflow and fan spinning direction. Something I noticed not to long ago


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Faster_is_better*
> 
> To get the multiple colored led strips it takes one of those RGB strips. @maskymus did a really nice job of it and posted how to do it on his build log *here*.
> Most fans actually have little arrow symbols on the side of the frame that shows airflow and fan spinning direction. Something I noticed not to long ago


Arrows? We don't need no stinkin' arrows!

If you see all of the fan, it's the *intake*!



If there are pieces blocking view of fan, it's *exhaust*!


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Arrows? We don't need no stinkin' arrows!
> 
> If you see all of the fan, it's the *intake*!
> 
> 
> 
> If there are pieces blocking view of fan, it's *exhaust*!


Should be mentioned that there are fans that have exhaust on the oposite side to, but it's usually not the case on regular fans with frames like the ones in question here. So the general rule is that the side \withe the frame fitting for the motor is exhaust and the other is intake.

Just an example of a fan working the other way:


That would be why they use arrows on them as well







All but a select few fans operates exhausting towards the frame, so in this case it's really a no brainer.


----------



## DopplerShift

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> It's actually a 240 up top....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The 360 up top and 280 in the front fit with both being 60mm - however the top rad will likely have to be push or pull only,. Where you run into a problem with that configuration is if you want to use the front res mount - it will be extremely tight in that area.
> 
> If there is a specific measurement you are looking for, let me know.


Ahh thank you, it's clearer now









Basically I want a top 360 60mm rad in pull with 3x120mm fans (25mm thick is standard right? so total of 85mm at the top from the bracket), and a front 60mm 280 rad in push (using the 140mm case fans), for a res I want to use one of the new EK revo pump/res combos like this one mounted at the front, but there's a chance it wont fit there as a combo so I might have to fit just the res at the front near the rad and the pump at the bottom of the case below the shroud where there's more room.

Thanks!


----------



## zerophase

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Faster_is_better*
> 
> To get the multiple colored led strips it takes one of those RGB strips. @maskymus did a really nice job of it and posted how to do it on his build log *here
> *


Thanks. I thought he had used a cathode.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DopplerShift*
> 
> Ahh thank you, it's clearer now
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Basically I want a top 360 60mm rad in pull with 3x120mm fans (25mm thick is standard right? so total of 85mm at the top from the bracket), and a front 60mm 280 rad in push (using the 140mm case fans), for a res I want to use one of the new EK revo pump/res combos like this one mounted at the front, but there's a chance it wont fit there as a combo so I might have to fit just the res at the front near the rad and the pump at the bottom of the case below the shroud where there's more room.
> 
> Thanks!


That will fit without an issue - I did actually have the 360 and 280 in the case simultaneously but it didn't appear in the video. The 140 Revo will be difficult to fill and _may_ require removing it to do so (I can't say for sure without one in hand), but the 100 Revo would pose no problems.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> Should be mentioned that there are fans that have exhaust on the oposite side to, but it's usually not the case on regular fans with frames like the ones in question here. So the general rule is that the side \withe the frame fitting for the motor is exhaust and the other is intake.
> 
> Just an example of a fan working the other way:
> 
> 
> That would be why they use arrows on them as well
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All but a select few fans operates exhausting towards the frame, so in this case it's really a no brainer.


True.
All the fans I've seen that did not follow the frame side as exhaust were specific application fans like the one you put up. Rather hard to mount them wrong.


----------



## DopplerShift

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> That will fit without an issue - I did actually have the 360 and 280 in the case simultaneously but it didn't appear in the video. The 140 Revo will be difficult to fill and _may_ require removing it to do so (I can't say for sure without one in hand), but the 100 Revo would pose no problems.


Oh so you're the guy in the video! good to know, it's the most informative EVOLV ATX video I've found









About the 100 Revo; if I'm going for a reservoir that small I think I can mount it in the back near the GPU? I think on the youtube comments you said there's about 130mm of height back there between the fan and the shroud, so I can get a small reservoir like the EK-RES X3 110 which is 110mm tall, mount it back there, and get a separate Revo D5 pump and mount it at the bottom of the case where you can't see it and then it will also be cleaner looking. But then I think I might have problem with the tubing being too long and ugly because I have to bridge across the width of the case to get from the outlet of the reservoir to the inlet of the pump. So maybe the 100 Revo pump/res combo is the best solution here.

As you can probably tell this is my first water cooling setup so I'm trying to plan ahead as far as I can before I order everything









Thanks!


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DopplerShift*
> 
> Oh so you're the guy in the video! good to know, it's the most informative EVOLV ATX video I've found
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> About the 100 Revo; if I'm going for a reservoir that small I think I can mount it in the back near the GPU? I think on the youtube comments you said there's about 130mm of height back there between the fan and the shroud, so I can get a small reservoir like the EK-RES X3 110 which is 110mm tall, mount it back there, and get a separate Revo D5 pump and mount it at the bottom of the case where you can't see it and then it will also be cleaner looking. But then I think I might have problem with the tubing being too long and ugly because I have to bridge across the width of the case to get from the outlet of the reservoir to the inlet of the pump. So maybe the 100 Revo pump/res combo is the best solution here.
> 
> As you can probably tell this is my first water cooling setup so I'm trying to plan ahead as far as I can before I order everything
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks!


A tip to you since you are concerned about tubing runs... run the tubing like you would cables, use the cable grommits as best as you can to get a cleaner look. It's what I figured I will do in my build after doing quite a few trial runs with some scrap tubing I had laying around. Only thing you really need to think about is the inlet/outet port on the CPU block and the pump, as long as those corospond then you can more or less do any runs you want (also res before pump, but I suspect you know that).


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

Would the EK X3 400mm reservoir fit right here in the Enthoo Primo (where the cables for the front fans are, that little area):



It's 60mm diameter so not 100% certain.

Edit: Unicornhunter says "There is 575mm (22.65") of inside space from the floor of the case to the top. (the pull fans above a top-mounted rad would sit above that)." so would the 60mm diameter work?


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxdarkreap3rxx*
> 
> Would the EK X3 400mm reservoir fit right here in the Enthoo Primo (where the cables for the front fans are, that little area):
> 
> 
> 
> It's 60mm diameter so not 100% certain.
> 
> Edit: Unicornhunter says "There is 575mm (22.65") of inside space from the floor of the case to the top. (the pull fans above a top-mounted rad would sit above that)." so would the 60mm diameter work?


I'll take a quick picture for you, unfortunately I don't have an EK reservoir so I hope my Bitspower ddc/res combo will do for now:



Apologies for the quality, my DSLR is currently out of juice so these are with my phone.


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> I'll take a quick picture for you, unfortunately I don't have an EK reservoir so I hope my Bitspower ddc/res combo will do for now:
> 
> Apologies for the quality, my DSLR is currently out of juice so these are with my phone.


Repped. Do you know what model that is so I could look up the diameter of the res? Would you say that if it were 2x the height that the tube would still fit (width-wise)? Or I guess an easier thing, if you pick it up and move it like 8" higher does the optical drive bay obstruct it at all?

Thanks


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxdarkreap3rxx*
> 
> Repped. Do you know what model that is so I could look up the diameter of the res? Would you say that if it were 2x the height that the tube would still fit (width-wise)? Or I guess an easier thing, if you pick it up and move it like 8" higher does the optical drive bay obstruct it at all?
> 
> Thanks


It might be a bit of a close fit, so if possible I would go for something 30cm long instead of 40cm just to be safe. The reservoir is just a standard upgrade kit to mount on the bitspower DDC top. http://www.performance-pcs.com/bitspower-dual-single-ddc-top-upgrade-kit-150-black-pom-cap.html so it's the standard z-multi 150 reservoir.

or generally speaking knowing the outer diameter and measuring the space would likely be far more helpful to you.


----------



## Faster_is_better

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxdarkreap3rxx*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> I'll take a quick picture for you, unfortunately I don't have an EK reservoir so I hope my Bitspower ddc/res combo will do for now:
> 
> Apologies for the quality, my DSLR is currently out of juice so these are with my phone.
> 
> 
> 
> Repped. Do you know what model that is so I could look up the diameter of the res? Would you say that if it were 2x the height that the tube would still fit (width-wise)? Or I guess an easier thing, if you pick it up and move it like 8" higher does the optical drive bay obstruct it at all?
> 
> Thanks
Click to expand...

Maybe this pic will help?


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Faster_is_better*
> 
> Maybe this pic will help?


Thanks, repped. Looks like I should be able to squeeze the EK 400mm in there.


----------



## Faster_is_better

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxdarkreap3rxx*
> 
> Thanks, repped. Looks like I should be able to squeeze the EK 400mm in there.


Now if you just cutout a long window for the res in the side panel, that would be sweet









Although I think the 240mm fan grill on the side panel may be in the way of that, sadly. I actually haven't seen my side panel for months, so I'm not sure...


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Faster_is_better*
> 
> Now if you just cutout a long window for the res in the side panel, that would be sweet
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Although I think the 240mm fan grill on the side panel may be in the way of that, sadly. I actually haven't seen my side panel for months, so I'm not sure...


Could do a larger window and jsut remove the entire grill. Do some fiberglass sculpting or acrylic frames around the reservoir and you have a pretty sweet looking setup







A lot to do though and I have no idea if Darkreaper would even be in to that


----------



## DopplerShift

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> That will fit without an issue - I did actually have the 360 and 280 in the case simultaneously but it didn't appear in the video. The 140 Revo will be difficult to fill and _may_ require removing it to do so (I can't say for sure without one in hand), but the 100 Revo would pose no problems.


Hey so since my last reply to you, someone posted a

__
https://www.reddit.com/r/3l3zd8/phanteks_evolv_atx/
 and he claims that a 280 rad won't fit in the front because the shroud opening is too narrow to fit a 280 down there. If you could measure the width/length of the shroud opening I would be most grateful









Thanks!


----------



## KaffieneKing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DopplerShift*
> 
> Hey so since my last reply to you, someone posted a
> 
> __
> https://www.reddit.com/r/3l3zd8/phanteks_evolv_atx/
> and he claims that a 280 rad won't fit in the front because the shroud opening is too narrow to fit a 280 down there. If you could measure the width/length of the shroud opening I would be most grateful
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks!


Don't own the ATX case but this is definitely the case with the mATX version.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DopplerShift*
> 
> Hey so since my last reply to you, someone posted a
> 
> __
> https://www.reddit.com/r/3l3zd8/phanteks_evolv_atx/
> and he claims that a 280 rad won't fit in the front because the shroud opening is too narrow to fit a 280 down there. If you could measure the width/length of the shroud opening I would be most grateful
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks!


Mine measures 144mm wide, 107mm deep. The Alphacool UT60 280mm just squeezed in - literally touching on both sides.


----------



## InCoGnIt0

He has clear windows on his website for sale.


----------



## emsj86

If interested I have side panel with bezeled edges. Cast acrylic clear. Selling it bc I upgrades to a sm8.


----------



## Otterfluff

So I modified my Primo case to fit a 420mm Radiator using a Phobia Grill in the front.



It also has added ventilation holes cut into the bottom and I cut out all of the 120mm fan mounting from the top.





I also shortened the Res Bracket so I can fit a 420mm Monsta Rad in the top of the case with a few cm of clearance in a push/pull setup. The bottom of the optical bay has been cut out.


I finished the job with matching acrylic paints, I was very lucky to get the paint to match.

A demciFlex Filter I have custom ordered will magnetically fix right onto the front Phobia grill and should alleviate the poor design on the front stock dust filter.

My full Build log can be found here: http://forums.overclockers.com.au/showthread.php?t=1173138


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

Dude, that's genius using the Phobya grill.


----------



## Otterfluff

Yeah the Phobia Grills are nearly twice as thick as the original case steel and I feel the case is structurally more rigid than before I started. I sanded down where the Grill and the case touch then prepped it with acetone -> then used JB weld to make a strong bond with pop rivets just to hold it in place when I welded it together.

I have the process well documented if anyone wants a look.


----------



## Faster_is_better

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Otterfluff*
> 
> Yeah the Phobia Grills are nearly twice as thick as the original case steel and I feel the case is structurally more rigid than before I started. I sanded down where the Grill and the case touch then prepped it with acetone -> then used JB weld to make a strong bond with pop rivets just to hold it in place when I welded it together.
> 
> I have the process well documented if anyone wants a look.


That is some serious radiator space inside the case, nice work.


----------



## HalongPort

Hi guys,
I need a new case, since my Midgard has certain heat problems and it's too small for a new gpu.
I can't decide between Enthoo Pro, Enthoo Pro M and Arc Midi R2 (they cost all the same at my retailer).

I'm looking for good airflow and cable managment and I don't need a window or something.
I need a drive bay, room for 2 cooled HDDs and 2 SDDs mounted behind the motherboard.
I will be using 4140mm fans, 2 front, 1 bottom, 1 rear.
I want to have the option, to use AIO water cooling for CPU and GPU (like H100i, AMD Fury X).

My concerns are:

Enthoo Pro:

HDD sidepanel (no flexible HDD cages, airflow problem?)
airflow problems because of dense front
no PSU shroud (non window version)
Enthoo Pro M:

small side front not dust proof
same airflow problems like pro?
no non-window version available
not as many room as the pro for AIO water cooling?
Arc Midi R2:

bad cable managment
bad SSD support behind motherboard
standing not as high as enthoo cases (regarding airflow for bottom fan and psu)
seems like its kinda small and old
Since all cases cost the same, what would be your advice?


----------



## sav4

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HalongPort*
> 
> Hi guys,
> I need a new case, since my Midgard has certain heat problems and it's too small for a new gpu.
> I can't decide between Enthoo Pro, Enthoo Pro M and Arc Midi R2 (they cost all the same at my retailer).
> 
> I'm looking for good airflow and cable managment and I don't need a window or something.
> I need a drive bay, room for 2 cooled HDDs and 2 SDDs mounted behind the motherboard.
> I will be using 4140mm fans, 2 front, 1 bottom, 1 rear.
> I want to have the option, to use AIO water cooling for CPU and GPU (like H100i, AMD Fury X).
> 
> My concerns are:
> 
> Enthoo Pro:
> 
> HDD sidepanel (no flexible HDD cages, airflow problem?)
> airflow problems because of dense front
> no PSU shroud (non window version)
> Enthoo Pro M:
> 
> small side front not dust proof
> same airflow problems like pro?
> no non-window version available
> not as many room as the pro for AIO water cooling?
> Arc Midi R2:
> 
> bad cable managment
> bad SSD support behind motherboard
> standing not as high as enthoo cases (regarding airflow for bottom fan and psu)
> seems like its kinda small and old
> Since all cases cost the same, what would be your advice?


I would go the pro it has good airflow and should have enough room for your components. I have the luxe and the they are basically the same chassis and it has heaps of room inside and decent airflow .
Ssd mounts behind you could also put your other drives in the 5.25 bays with adapters and remove both h/d cages to improve airflow. Hope this helps.


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sav4*
> 
> I would go the pro it has good airflow and should have enough room for your components. I have the luxe and the they are basically the same chassis and it has heaps of room inside and decent airflow .
> Ssd mounts behind you could also put your other drives in the 5.25 bays with adapters and remove both h/d cages to improve airflow. Hope this helps.


I second this, If ou want support for water cooling in a midi format then the pro is really the best of those cases.


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HalongPort*
> 
> Hi guys,
> I need a new case, since my Midgard has certain heat problems and it's too small for a new gpu.
> I can't decide between Enthoo Pro, Enthoo Pro M and Arc Midi R2 (they cost all the same at my retailer).
> 
> I'm looking for good airflow and cable managment and I don't need a window or something.
> I need a drive bay, room for 2 cooled HDDs and 2 SDDs mounted behind the motherboard.
> I will be using 4140mm fans, 2 front, 1 bottom, 1 rear.
> I want to have the option, to use AIO water cooling for CPU and GPU (like H100i, AMD Fury X).
> 
> My concerns are:
> 
> Enthoo Pro:
> 
> HDD sidepanel (no flexible HDD cages, airflow problem?)
> airflow problems because of dense front
> no PSU shroud (non window version)
> Enthoo Pro M:
> 
> small side front not dust proof
> same airflow problems like pro?
> no non-window version available
> not as many room as the pro for AIO water cooling?
> Arc Midi R2:
> 
> bad cable managment
> bad SSD support behind motherboard
> standing not as high as enthoo cases (regarding airflow for bottom fan and psu)
> seems like its kinda small and old
> Since all cases cost the same, what would be your advice?


long story short, if these three are the same price go for the enthoo pro. now, on to each case.

Enthoo Pro:

- HDD cages can be removed if only using one and can put a 120mm fan on them
- no airflow problems as the front is not rstrictive
- no psu cover is a non issue with a solid side panel

Enhtoo Pro M:

- side vents same as enthoo pro, stupid yes
- no airflow problems at all, completely open chamber design
- only comes with a window and the window size sucks
- rad mounting by default is actually better than the big Pro's due to offset and removable top mount (can hold thicker rads) and no drive cages in front

Arc Midi R2::

- worse cable management than the others, sure, not terrible
- SSD trays are inconvenient
- yes, it's case feet are lower
- yes, it needs a revision already

the Enthoo pro M might be a nice fit for you if you don't want something big. it only comes with two HDD bays and a single SSD holder.


----------



## Acquire

If I wanted to put some exhaust fans on the top of the Evolv ATX, should I go with high static pressure fans since the top is not directly vented?


----------



## rfarmer

Decided to do a bit of watercooling, but with the compact size of the Evolv- iTX and not wanting to remove my hard drive bracket, put real restrictions on res/pump mounting. Decided to go with the Swiftech H220-X, partly for compact size of only 247mm and partly for the attached res/pump. From what I read the Swiftech Apogee cpu block is on par with the best out there and the pump was strong enough to add another radiator and gpu block.

So I added a Black Ice Pro 120mm radiator and a Bitspower VG-NGTX970MG. I'm going to let it burn in a bit before doing any benchmarks but it lowered my idle gpu temps by 20C, cpu temps are about the same as my Corsair h105 which I was expecting.


----------



## DyndaS

Tell us more about GPU and CPU temps. diference in games.


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DyndaS*
> 
> Tell us more about GPU and CPU temps. diference in games.


Ok just played a bit of Mad Max, I have my 4690k OCed to 4.5 Ghz and hitting mid 40's C while gaming, my GTX 970 is at 40C which is absolutely excellent. I was hitting 75C with air cooling. No OC on the 970, wanted to wait till it was watercooled.


----------



## DyndaS

How long did you played? Water need time to warm.


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DyndaS*
> 
> How long did you played? Water need time to warm.


Yeah I only gave it 20 mins, just got done playing for about 90 mins. 45 to 50C for the cpu and 45C for the gpu. That is still a 30C improvement for the gpu.


----------



## DyndaS

What RPM do you have on fans?

Top is exphaust / intake?


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DyndaS*
> 
> What RPM do you have on fans?
> 
> Top is exphaust / intake?


Top is exhaust, fans are pwm but running about 1500 rpm.


----------



## PureBlackFire

just noticed with my case LED's turned off my system's idle consumption is 56 watts, down about 42 - 52 watts from 98 - 108 average with the LEDs on.


----------



## dkevox

^^ How many LEDs do you have!!???

What are you using to monitor power consumption?


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dkevox*
> 
> ^^ How many LEDs do you have!!???
> 
> What are you using to monitor power consumption?


besides the ones that come with the case, I have the Phanteks 2M LED strip. for power monitoring I use a kill-a-watt and sometimes rely on... corsair link.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PureBlackFire*
> 
> besides the ones that come with the case, I have the Phanteks 2M LED strip. for power monitoring I use a kill-a-watt and sometimes rely on... corsair link.


I think I threw up in my mouth when you said corsair link lol but yeah kill a watt is good


----------



## dkevox

wow, that's amazing that they consume that much. Good to know, I would never have guessed that.


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dkevox*
> 
> wow, that's amazing that they consume that much. Good to know, I would never have guessed that.


yea, I know they get really hot, but 50 watts is interesting.


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PureBlackFire*
> 
> just noticed with my case LED's turned off my system's idle consumption is 56 watts, down about 42 - 52 watts from 98 - 108 average with the LEDs on.


Daaaamn. That chassis is HOT!!!


----------



## RnRollie

Well.. its not unheard off..








After all, LEDs are diodes, and diodes are "one-way valves".. not "magical power saving devices"









Your typical LED strip contains multiple LEDs and each LED is of a certain "family" / brand / make / type (or SMDxxxx "Made in...")
A very popular LED "model" is about 0.1 Watts (per LED) ... have 10 of them in one strip and you are already looking at 1W .... it all adds up









See also: http://www.lednews.org/calculate-power-consume-led-flexible-strip/


----------



## PatrickCrowely

That Primo is a bad case... Looking for a new case & this just might be it


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PatrickCrowely*
> 
> That Primo is a bad case... Looking for a new case & this just might be it


Primo is a bad mutha....


----------



## ali13245

.


----------



## ppkstat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> That is correct. It's fairly close, but fits without touching anything.


Turns out I won't be able to use the ek antivibration mount I had in mind, it doesn't fit. I 'll be using the exact same mount as you, that is the stock ek d5 top mount. As this is going to be a very silent build I am concerned about vibrations. What's your experience with this? Is it noisy at all? The phantecs pump mount does not provide complete decoupling because there is physical contact of the pump and the case via the screws.

If it doesn't work out i'll prolly use a sponge but I want to avoid that.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ppkstat*
> 
> Turns out I won't be able to use the ek antivibration mount I had in mind, it doesn't fit. I 'll be using the exact same mount as you, that is the stock ek d5 top mount. As this is going to be a very silent build I am concerned about vibrations. What's your experience with this? Is it noisy at all? The phantecs pump mount does not provide complete decoupling because there is physical contact of the pump and the case via the screws.
> 
> If it doesn't work out i'll prolly use a sponge but I want to avoid that.


I had no noise issues at all with the Phanteks mount. I did have to drill one hole for mounting, though.


----------



## ppkstat

Thanks for the feedback. I don't mind drilling holes, noise level is what bothers me.

Speaking of which the case makes awful cracking noises when heating up/ cooling down. I am sure its because of the design of the side panel. Did anyone find a solution to that?


----------



## kennyj

So... anyone have trouble mounting a 480 rad? I tried installing the Alphacool UT60 in the bottom in push/pull yesterday. Over an hour and much cursing later, I think I got a single one of Alphacool's provided long screws to go through the fan and into the rad's mounting hole - and only because that particular hole was poking up slightly compared to the rest. I'm using Phanteks PH-F120MP fans with the rubber gaskets intact, which I'm sure is only adding to the difficulty. Should I perhaps ditch those pads on the rad-facing side of those fans to get just a little more room for the screws to catch?

I had the case upside-down and was holding up the rad with one hand, aligning the fans and working on the screw with the allen key with the other. I've got much better tools at home, but I was trying to do the base assembly at work.


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ppkstat*
> 
> Thanks for the feedback. I don't mind drilling holes, noise level is what bothers me.
> 
> Speaking of which the case makes awful cracking noises when heating up/ cooling down. I am sure its because of the design of the side panel. Did anyone find a solution to that?


I have both of my panels off and it still makes the noise. Someone mentioned it could be the radiators expanding and contracting slightly. I do notice that if I fire up something with high load (like a game), it will creak right away.


----------



## ppkstat

I see. I don't currently have a rad mounted on the case.


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ppkstat*
> 
> I see. I don't currently have a rad mounted on the case.


So it's all air cooling? That's strange... not sure what it could be then as I've been running with the two panels off for easier access and figured it had to be the rads.


----------



## ppkstat

Yes just air for now. Maybe something to do with the top of the case then. I'll be adding my rads in the near future.


----------



## doyll

My window used to creak during warm-up and cool-down.


----------



## HalongPort

Hey,

regarding the Enthoo Pro.
Can I use just one drive cage without the optical drive bay, the second drive cage and the side-drive-panel?
Is the front non-restrictive for two 140mm fans? Or is the upper one slightly restricted?

Thanks for help!

edit:

I just want to achieve the best possible airflow.
I've got 2 HDDs and 2 SSDs and thought about using two 140s in the front, one 140 bottom and one 140 fan at the rear.
I need a new case now and I can't wait for a revision of the Arc Midi R2.


----------



## Faster_is_better

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ppkstat*
> 
> Thanks for the feedback. I don't mind drilling holes, noise level is what bothers me.
> 
> Speaking of which the case makes awful cracking noises when heating up/ cooling down. I am sure its because of the design of the side panel. Did anyone find a solution to that?


I thought someone posted how they fixed it before, it may have been as simple as putting some tape or paper into the corners of the window, between the panel and window that fixed it.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kennyj*
> 
> So... anyone have trouble mounting a 480 rad? I tried installing the Alphacool UT60 in the bottom in push/pull yesterday. Over an hour and much cursing later, I think I got a single one of Alphacool's provided long screws to go through the fan and into the rad's mounting hole - and only because that particular hole was poking up slightly compared to the rest. I'm using Phanteks PH-F120MP fans with the rubber gaskets intact, which I'm sure is only adding to the difficulty. Should I perhaps ditch those pads on the rad-facing side of those fans to get just a little more room for the screws to catch?
> 
> I had the case upside-down and was holding up the rad with one hand, aligning the fans and working on the screw with the allen key with the other. I've got much better tools at home, but I was trying to do the base assembly at work.


You're best bet is to take out the radiator and run each screw into every hole and work it a few times to make sure they thread as easily as possible. Actually if you have a thread tap in the right size that is the best. I tapped all mine out before hand and made sure each could screw into easily. I used a Alphacool UT60 in bottom as well, and I noticed some of the screw holes were actually tapped really crooked. I would run a screw into that hole and then bend it over until it was more straight. Trying to line up 4 holes especially crooked ones would be really hard.

Once I got all that done though, I slid my case about 1/3 off a desk and started the first 6 or so screws from the bottom and then turned the case around and started the others so that it was all loosely connected where I could put the whole case on its side to do the middle ones.

The prep work really helps on that bottom one though. The top rad can benefit the same, at least do the corners when mounting it.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxdarkreap3rxx*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ppkstat*
> 
> Thanks for the feedback. I don't mind drilling holes, noise level is what bothers me.
> 
> Speaking of which the case makes awful cracking noises when heating up/ cooling down. I am sure its because of the design of the side panel. Did anyone find a solution to that?
> 
> 
> 
> I have both of my panels off and it still makes the noise. Someone mentioned it could be the radiators expanding and contracting slightly. I do notice that if I fire up something with high load (like a game), it will creak right away.
Click to expand...

Pretty much any of the large plastic pieces will be able to make noises like this if they are subject to decent temp changes, just the way it is I think.


----------



## RnRollie

For vibration dampening:
Most DIY sell 1" or 2" thick recycled rubber "mats" to put under the feet of washing/laundry & workshop machines. If you're lucky they also sell the smaller 10x10 cm versions.

This stuff is very cheap & mostly the same thing as "acoustic isolation specialist" sell... except the DIY sell "Recycled in China" for like $2,- ; while the specialists sell "Specially precision manufactured in your home country" for $20,-

Either way, its fantastic material for a (floating) pump mount.
Also, you can glue it to moving/vibrating panels so it doubles up as sound dampening AND vibration dampening (due to its weight)

It does have a few drawbacks thou:
1. its not a sexy lookin as the "Acoustic Specialists" version
2. Because its largely recycle car tires, it is HEAVY
3. Dont set it on fire! Once it gets going its difficult to put out and the thick black smoke is rather toxic


----------



## retro123

Update on my primo build, side panel from mnpctech and white acrylic plastic interior with SSD's mounted on them:


----------



## By-Tor

retro123 that is very sweet....Love it...


----------



## retro123

Thanks
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *By-Tor*
> 
> retro123 that is very sweet....Love it...


Thanks By-Tor , glad you like it!


----------



## DopplerShift

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *retro123*
> 
> Update on my primo build, side panel from mnpctech and white acrylic plastic interior with SSD's mounted on them:


How's the structural integrity with the 5.25 bay completely removed? I assume you had to drill the rivets to remove the top part?


----------



## retro123

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DopplerShift*
> 
> How's the structural integrity with the 5.25 bay completely removed? I assume you had to drill the rivets to remove the top part?


Well, it's a bit wiggly, something I've yet to come up with a solution for. This is not a build that is suited for moving around a lot as it stands now.. The clear acrylic sidepanel is really sturdy and heavy so it helps a lot in stabilizing the case. (my main language isn't english so I hope you understand me)


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DopplerShift*
> 
> How's the structural integrity with the 5.25 bay completely removed? I assume you had to drill the rivets to remove the top part?


You can remove the panel with just screws but the rest of the bay needs to have rivets drilled out. I've seen a few builds that have done it and they've all seemed fine. Was debating doing it with mine but didn't go that route.


----------



## retro123

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxdarkreap3rxx*
> 
> You can remove the panel with just screws but the rest of the bay needs to have rivets drilled out. I've seen a few builds that have done it and they've all seemed fine. Was debating doing it with mine but didn't go that route.


Yes there are a few rivets that you have to drill out. (I actually took a sharp small knife and a hammer and managed to remove the rivets with that combination. If I remember right there was four or five rivets. Wish it was all screws..don't understand the combination of screws and rivets. Oh well.


----------



## DopplerShift

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *retro123*
> 
> Well, it's a bit wiggly, something I've yet to come up with a solution for. This is not a build that is suited for moving around a lot as it stands now.. The clear acrylic sidepanel is really sturdy and heavy so it helps a lot in stabilizing the case. (my main language isn't english so I hope you understand me)


Regardless, it looks very good, grats!


----------



## Faster_is_better

@retro123, that is a very nice build


----------



## jeffblute

So the Enthoo Mini XL is onsale right now on Newegg, I might have to pick one up. I just hope my lady friend doesn't kill me









http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811854014


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jeffblute*
> 
> So the Enthoo Mini XL is onsale right now on Newegg, I might have to pick one up. I just hope my lady friend doesn't kill me
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811854014


That is a pretty cool case, massive for a m-atx. Make sure and post pics of completed build.


----------



## jeffblute

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rfarmer*
> 
> That is a pretty cool case, massive for a m-atx. Make sure and post pics of completed build.


Yeah I agree it is a bit on the large size, but after working in the Mini R2 and attempting the node 804 it seems like the best choice. Room for plenty of rads (oh yes a monster 360 will go in this. No ifs, ands, or buts about it) a nice tube res and if I find a good deal a second 980Ti. I am just tired of getting my hands half stuck in this current case and FIGHTING for cable management room on the back panel. I guess we will see. it is this or caselabs, but i think the price point is just too good to pass up...


----------



## sav4

@ retro sweet build very clean


----------



## BLAMM0

Anybody tried painting the plastic of these Enthoo cases? Mine came out kind of strange, the finish is uneven, I think thats the "alu/brushed" look that does this...

Currently in progress.


----------



## ArtX38

Phanteks Enthoo two in one


----------



## Phantatsy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *retro123*
> 
> Update on my primo build, side panel from mnpctech and white acrylic plastic interior with SSD's mounted on them:


Got a build log for this?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ArtX38*
> 
> 
> 
> Phanteks Enthoo two in one


I'm sorry a two-in-one??! Mmmmmm...


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phantatsy*
> 
> I'm sorry a two-in-one??! Mmmmmm...


2 computers 1 chassis


----------



## By-Tor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ArtX38*
> 
> 
> 
> Phanteks Enthoo two in one


Interesting


----------



## retro123

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DopplerShift*
> 
> Regardless, it looks very good, grats!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Faster_is_better*
> 
> @retro123, that is a very nice build


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sav4*
> 
> @ retro sweet build very clean


Thanks all! Glad you like it.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phantatsy*
> 
> Got a build log for this?


No, sorry I don't.


----------



## retro123

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ArtX38*
> 
> 
> 
> Phanteks Enthoo two in one


That looks really interesting!


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BLAMM0*
> 
> Anybody tried painting the plastic of these Enthoo cases? Mine came out kind of strange, the finish is uneven, I think thats the "alu/brushed" look that does this...
> 
> Currently in progress.


did you prime and scuff the finish first? Also even coverage is hard to achieve without hanging it in a well lit area and letting fully dry between layers

Edit: it looks like your coat wasn't very even....most people painting case will use compressor and paint sprayer with auto paint or something similar as it covers much more evenly. Also you masking could use work...(not judging just things that jumped out at me immediately)...did you use a spray can or a proper setup?


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> did you prime and scuff the finish first? Also even coverage is hard to achieve without hanging it in a well lit area and letting fully dry between layers
> 
> Edit: it looks like your coat wasn't very even....most people painting case will use compressor and paint sprayer with auto paint or something similar as it covers much more evenly. Also you masking could use work...(not judging just things that jumped out at me immediately)...did you use a spray can or a proper setup?


Yeah without proper preparation, plastic can really be a b***h to paint. If you sand it down to a propper mat finish the paint should go on nicely though (not always enough to jsut scuff it).


----------



## Myloween

My Enthoo Primo setup is almost finished too, I think add some white light strip behind radiators and RGB light strip for a purple or orange atmosphere.
You can see the full gallery here :


http://imgur.com/a


----------



## rfarmer

Beautiful Myloween.


----------



## Myloween

Thanks a lot.
Enthoo Primo is very pleasant to handle and everything goes just perfectly, no space wasted.
So with some minor tweaks it's a very great case for me.


----------



## Phantatsy

Has anyone put a midplate or lightbox in the Primo?


----------



## BLAMM0

Will try to prime, spray cans were used, came out good with my CM 690 II, but not with this one


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BLAMM0*
> 
> Will try to prime, spray cans were used, came out good with my CM 690 II, but not with this one


sanding and primer are your best friend...sanding makes it smoother (using fairly high grits)and primer will fill in some of the imperfections making the final coats lay smoother..also you can buy an airbrush kit with a small compressor for panels and such but painting a whole case I would suggest a decent compressor with an actual spray gun attachment and use auto paint or any good enamel...you can but it by the quart and the results are much nicer


----------



## luukelbo

Today i finished my case swap from a corsair 250d to this bad boy! Phanthex enthoo evolv itx. I love it, its a great case easy to build and good for cable management and the good looks ofcource im sold!


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *luukelbo*
> 
> Today i finished my case swap from a corsair 250d to this bad boy! Phanthex enthoo evolv itx. I love it, its a great case easy to build and good for cable management and the good looks ofcource im sold!


Yeah I love my Evolv-iTX, and a nice, clean build you have there.


----------



## Jugurnot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *luukelbo*
> 
> Today i finished my case swap from a corsair 250d to this bad boy! Phanthex enthoo evolv itx. I love it, its a great case easy to build and good for cable management and the good looks ofcource im sold!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Hey nice build! I just bought that case and same motherboard too. Only problem I have is I need to fit an RX240 in the top, and an EK 150 Multi X3 reservoir. Gonna be tight, but I think it will work out. I have to sacrifice the HDD rack for my pump, but eventually a large capacity ssd will remedy that.

On the topic of rads, how much space is there from the top of that gpu cover thingy, to the plate which rads/fans mount on. Need to know how many mm's I have for rad+fan+reservoir


----------



## luukelbo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jugurnot*
> 
> Hey nice build! I just bought that case and same motherboard too. Only problem I have is I need to fit an RX240 in the top, and an EK 150 Multi X3 reservoir. Gonna be tight, but I think it will work out. I have to sacrifice the HDD rack for my pump, but eventually a large capacity ssd will remedy that.
> 
> On the topic of rads, how much space is there from the top of that gpu cover thingy, to the plate which rads/fans mount on. Need to know how many mm's I have for rad+fan+reservoir


Nice!
On the clearence im not sure in not at home right now but on the visuals i think You would have about 18/20 cm of space i will measure it tomorow if You would like.

@rfarmer thanks


----------



## XRogerX

heres mine it not much but i love it
what do you guys think of it

Right now im waiting on a new Mobo and CPU
my 1St water Cooling

Alittle Dust but nothing major

System Specs are

Case: Phanteks Enthoo Pro
MB: Gigabytes GA-990FXA-UD3
CPU: AMD FX-6300 3.5Ghz Stock Clocked @4.6Ghz
Cooler: Corsair Hydro Series H110i GT
RAM: G.SKILL Sniper Series 8GB (2 x 4GB)
SSD: Kingston SSDNow V300 Series (Main)
HDD1: Western Digital Blue 250GB (Storge)
HDD2: Western Digital Blue 250GB (Bench)
GPU: Nvidia EVGA GeForce GTX 560 Ti FPB
PSU: Corsair RM1000


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XRogerX*
> 
> heres mine it not much but i love it
> what do you guys think of it


I like the graphic its pretty cool... how is it done a cling or what?


----------



## XRogerX

i got it made @ http://www.decaljunky.com/

Great Prices and customer support you can get any picture done
but it has to be Black/White and them send them the picture
and then they will send an example of the work and how it will look
they even for a face book and the saide panel is posted there to with alot
of other of there decals
check it out here

https://www.facebook.com/DecalJunky/photos_stream


----------



## Jugurnot

This is the measurement I would need, thank you so much for doing that.



@luukelbo


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jugurnot*
> 
> This is the measurement I would need, thank you so much for doing that.
> 
> 
> 
> @luukelbo


6.5", 165mm.


----------



## Jugurnot

@luukelbo

THAT IS AWESOME NEWS!!! Thank you so much. With my reservoir on the gpu cover, and my 57mm thick rad and fan will leave me with 1/4" to spare. Now I just hope with my collection of fittings I can plumb it in.


----------



## taem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Myloween*
> 
> My Enthoo Primo setup is almost finished too,


!! Wow that looks nice.

Here's mine...



:|

It's my first ever watercool though and it hasn't leaked in a year so I'm happy. But even this took a lot of effort, relative to air cooling, so my mind boggles at the work you guys put in for these aesthetically impressive builds. Right now I'm coming up with every excuse I can find to avoid tearing it apart to clean it out.


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jugurnot*
> 
> @luukelbo
> 
> THAT IS AWESOME NEWS!!! Thank you so much. With my reservoir on the gpu cover, and my 57mm thick rad and fan will leave me with 1/4" to spare. Now I just hope with my collection of fittings I can plumb it in.


Man that will be snug, good luck with the water cooling.


----------



## Jugurnot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rfarmer*
> 
> Man that will be snug, good luck with the water cooling.


I just hope it will cool my 3570k and TITAN.


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jugurnot*
> 
> I just hope it will cool my 3570k and TITAN.


You have 330mm space at the top, I see the RX240 is 278.5mm, that leaves 51.5mm. I used a Black Ice Pro 120mm rad at the back, it is 25mm + fan = 50mm. I have that with a Swiftech 240mm radiator cooling a 4690k OCed to 4.5 GHz and a GTX 970 OCed to 1518 Mhz core and 2000 MHz memory. Idle temps are 28C and load during stress test are under 60C. The additional 120mm really seemed to help, you might consider getting one.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *taem*
> 
> !! Wow that looks nice.
> 
> Here's mine...
> 
> 
> 
> :|
> 
> It's my first ever watercool though and it hasn't leaked in a year so I'm happy. But even this took a lot of effort, relative to air cooling, so my mind boggles at the work you guys put in for these aesthetically impressive builds. Right now I'm coming up with every excuse I can find to avoid tearing it apart to clean it out.


I can totally understand that....Ive been fighting myself on installing my second pump doing maintenance and actually putting the side panels back on and making the mounts for hard drives and the new pump... about 6 months or so... it really needs it though...


----------



## Jugurnot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rfarmer*
> 
> You have 330mm space at the top, I see the RX240 is 278.5mm, that leaves 51.5mm. I used a Black Ice Pro 120mm rad at the back, it is 25mm + fan = 50mm. I have that with a Swiftech 240mm radiator cooling a 4690k OCed to 4.5 GHz and a GTX 970 OCed to 1518 Mhz core and 2000 MHz memory. Idle temps are 28C and load during stress test are under 60C. The additional 120mm really seemed to help, you might consider getting one.


I dont really want to spend money since im downsizing from the Enthoo Pro. I have RX120 but that is clearly too big. Im even considering not using a rear fan. Im going to put Vardars 3000 rpm up front to create a good amount of pos. pressure. But maybe someone knows better than I, Vardars on rad, or Vardars up front? My other 2 fans are Aerocool DS 1600rpm


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jugurnot*
> 
> I dont really want to spend money since im downsizing from the Enthoo Pro. I have RX120 but that is clearly too big. Im even considering not using a rear fan. Im going to put Vardars 3000 rpm up front to create a good amount of pos. pressure. But maybe someone knows better than I, Vardars on rad, or Vardars up front? My other 2 fans are Aerocool DS 1600rpm


I would say that you should always use your stativ pressure fans for The most obstructed placements, and a radiator is about as obstructed as you get it without placing a wall in front og it. Then you can place what other fans you have to deal with the general air flow since it takes far less to move air in an open space than through a tight opening.

Short answer: Use your vardar fans on your radiator.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jugurnot*
> 
> I dont really want to spend money since im downsizing from the Enthoo Pro. I have RX120 but that is clearly too big. Im even considering not using a rear fan. Im going to put Vardars 3000 rpm up front to create a good amount of pos. pressure. But maybe someone knows better than I, Vardars on rad, or Vardars up front? My other 2 fans are Aerocool DS 1600rpm


Using Vardars on all intakes with no exhaust fans should work very well. You might find "Ways to Better Cooling" link in my sig of interest. 2st post is index. Click on topics of interest to see them.

Why 3000rpm fans? They will be very loud if you use the rpm. All my builds use fasn with higher ripm than needed, but with low idle speeds .. always PWM with case fans controlled by component heat usually using CPU and GPU PWM fan headers for PWM signal. Usually no exhaust fans with a 1.5-2.0 to 1 cfm ratio of case fans to component fans with case fans being similar maximum rpm ratio to component fans. IE 2000rpm component fans with 1200-1500rpm case fans. GPU fans are usually higher speed, but same 1200-1500rpm case fans work fine.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> I would say that you should always use your stativ pressure fans for The most obstructed placements, and a radiator is about as obstructed as you get it without placing a wall in front og it. Then you can place what other fans you have to deal with the general air flow since it takes far less to move air in an open space than through a tight opening.
> 
> Short answer: Use your vardar fans on your radiator.


Radiators can be less resistance than case grills and filter are.







Even rear grills block 20-60% of their area. Front grills are usually more restrictive than back plus the added restriction of filter.

Silverstone Tek and Puget Systems both show how grill resistance and turbulence restrict airflow.


----------



## Gdourado

Anyone with an Evolv ITX? How are your GPU temps? And what cooling setup do you have?

Thanks!


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gdourado*
> 
> Anyone with an Evolv ITX? How are your GPU temps? And what cooling setup do you have?
> 
> Thanks!




Very good, but I am using a full block and custom loop. Temps on air for my MSI GTX 970 were 45C idle and 70C while gaming.


----------



## Gdourado

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rfarmer*
> 
> 
> 
> Very good, but I am using a full block and custom loop. Temps on air for my MSI GTX 970 were 45C idle and 70C while gaming.


Thank you for letting me know.
But I am more interested in air cooling setups.
Some high performance GPU with open air cooler like the EVGA ACX 2 or such.
I read that the Evolv ITX is not very good in those scenarios because the GPU is too close to the psu and the 200mm fan cannot move enough air to cool the GPU effectively.
How accurate are these claims?

Cheers


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Using Vardars on all intakes with no exhaust fans should work very well. You might find "Ways to Better Cooling" link in my sig of interest. 2st post is index. Click on topics of interest to see them.
> 
> Why 3000rpm fans? They will be very loud if you use the rpm. All my builds use fasn with higher ripm than needed, but with low idle speeds .. always PWM with case fans controlled by component heat usually using CPU and GPU PWM fan headers for PWM signal. Usually no exhaust fans with a 1.5-2.0 to 1 cfm ratio of case fans to component fans with case fans being similar maximum rpm ratio to component fans. IE 2000rpm component fans with 1200-1500rpm case fans. GPU fans are usually higher speed, but same 1200-1500rpm case fans work fine.
> Radiators can be less resistance than case grills and filter are.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Even rear grills block 20-60% of their area. Front grills are usually more restrictive than back plus the added restriction of filter.
> 
> Silverstone Tek and Puget Systems both show how grill resistance and turbulence restrict airflow.


True enough, but then agan I suspect he will get better temps
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Using Vardars on all intakes with no exhaust fans should work very well. You might find "Ways to Better Cooling" link in my sig of interest. 2st post is index. Click on topics of interest to see them.
> 
> Why 3000rpm fans? They will be very loud if you use the rpm. All my builds use fasn with higher ripm than needed, but with low idle speeds .. always PWM with case fans controlled by component heat usually using CPU and GPU PWM fan headers for PWM signal. Usually no exhaust fans with a 1.5-2.0 to 1 cfm ratio of case fans to component fans with case fans being similar maximum rpm ratio to component fans. IE 2000rpm component fans with 1200-1500rpm case fans. GPU fans are usually higher speed, but same 1200-1500rpm case fans work fine.
> Radiators can be less resistance than case grills and filter are.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Even rear grills block 20-60% of their area. Front grills are usually more restrictive than back plus the added restriction of filter.
> 
> Silverstone Tek and Puget Systems both show how grill resistance and turbulence restrict airflow.


Fair enough, although I suspect you would get better temps on the components on the radiator from using the static pressure fans. It's all conjecture from my part though, so personally I would use the SP fans on the radiator rather than intake in the case since it's the radiator that you actually want to cool after all is said and done.


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XRogerX*
> 
> heres mine it not much but i love it
> what do you guys think of it
> 
> Right now im waiting on a new Mobo and CPU
> my 1St water Cooling
> 
> Alittle Dust but nothing major
> 
> System Specs are
> 
> Case: Phanteks Enthoo Pro
> MB: Gigabytes GA-990FXA-UD3
> CPU: AMD FX-6300 3.5Ghz Stock Clocked @4.6Ghz
> Cooler: Corsair Hydro Series H110i GT
> RAM: G.SKILL Sniper Series 8GB (2 x 4GB)
> SSD: Kingston SSDNow V300 Series (Main)
> HDD1: Western Digital Blue 250GB (Storge)
> HDD2: Western Digital Blue 250GB (Bench)
> GPU: Nvidia EVGA GeForce GTX 560 Ti FPB
> PSU: Corsair RM1000


Now that's what I'm talking about! But I'm slightly biased lol


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> True enough, but then agan I suspect he will get better temps
> Fair enough, although I suspect you would get better temps on the components on the radiator from using the static pressure fans. It's all conjecture from my part though, so personally I would use the SP fans on the radiator rather than intake in the case since it's the radiator that you actually want to cool after all is said and done.


True, but the cooler the air getting to the radiator the cooler the the coolant is.







Basically it depends on the difference4 in resistance between intake vents & filters compared to radiator. and how much the air warms up between case intake and radiator.

Best would be to test it both ways.


----------



## Jugurnot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> True, but the cooler the air getting to the radiator the cooler the the coolant is.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Basically it depends on the difference4 in resistance between intake vents & filters compared to radiator. and how much the air warms up between case intake and radiator.
> 
> Best would be to test it both ways.


Thanks for the info +Rep

The way I figured it was, since the top of the case is designed for exhaust, and my rad is low fpi and works good with lower speed fans, such as my aerocool ds 1600rpm, then it be a matter of getting as much fresh air as possible into the case, by way of the front fans. I only am using the vardars because I already have them and I doubt I will ever have them at 3000rpm anyway. Im thinking 2000rpm max will do the trick. If my vardars were on the rad, they might pull air in from the rear mesh, which definitely not what I want due to dust, and changing the direction of air flow through the case.

But I will play around for sure. Oh and my Aerocool ds are blue led, I wouldn't mind having them illuminate the inside of my case


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jugurnot*
> 
> Thanks for the info +Rep
> 
> The way I figured it was, since the top of the case is designed for exhaust, and my rad is low fpi and works good with lower speed fans, such as my aerocool ds 1600rpm, then it be a matter of getting as much fresh air as possible into the case, by way of the front fans. I only am using the vardars because I already have them and I doubt I will ever have them at 3000rpm anyway. Im thinking 2000rpm max will do the trick. If my vardars were on the rad, they might pull air in from the rear mesh, which definitely not what I want due to dust, and changing the direction of air flow through the case.
> 
> But I will play around for sure. Oh and my Aerocool ds are blue led, I wouldn't mind having them illuminate the inside of my case


Yeah, it's hard to know without experimenting.








You might find "Ways to Better Cooling" link in my sig interesting. Lots of info about case airflow and cooling.


----------



## Sorphius

Anybody put a water cooled 980ti K|NGP|N (11" long) into an Enthoo Primo? I'm looking to do a new (re)build in the next month or two and am trying to figure out whether I'd be able to mount an EK X3 reservoir between my video cards and the 5.25 bays.

I've got a sinking feeling that I'll either have to put it on the left side (near the exhaust ports), hide it behind the front panel, or use a bay res...


----------



## kimoswabi

Quick teaser... Evolv mATX


----------



## rfarmer

That is a sweet looking build, sexy as hell.


----------



## PatrickCrowely

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Myloween*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> My Enthoo Primo setup is almost finished too, I think add some white light strip behind radiators and RGB light strip for a purple or orange atmosphere.
> You can see the full gallery here :
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/a


You don't have a build log for this beauty? She's spectacular!


----------



## Myloween

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kimoswabi*
> 
> Quick teaser... Evolv mATX


Yes very nice look, I love how you made your tubing.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PatrickCrowely*
> 
> You don't have a build log for this beauty? She's spectacular!


Thank you very much but sorry my worklog is in french.
For the moment if you want see the different steps, you have just a link of my


http://imgur.com/a

.
Otherwise you can look this description if you want to see my rig and the pieces used :
https://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/19508102001/in/dateposted-public/


----------



## zanardi

Is Phanteks selling separately sidepanels for Enthoo Pro? The leftside (window side) is making this annoying sound like popping bubble wrap often. I want to replace this window panel with an all metal panel like the right panel.


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zanardi*
> 
> Is Phanteks selling separately sidepanels for Enthoo Pro? The leftside (window side) is making this annoying sound like popping bubble wrap often. I want to replace this window panel with an all metal panel like the right panel.


Most likely, yes. That's how I got my optical bay panel replacement for my Primo (actually arrived on Saturday). Cost a bit for shipping from CA to MA but I'd suggest contacting their support.


----------



## Sorphius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Myloween*
> 
> Thank you very much but sorry my worklog is in french.


Thanks for sharing! Time to see how much French I've forgotten in the past 15 years...


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sorphius*
> 
> Anybody put a water cooled 980ti K|NGP|N (11" long) into an Enthoo Primo? I'm looking to do a new (re)build in the next month or two and am trying to figure out whether I'd be able to mount an EK X3 reservoir between my video cards and the 5.25 bays.
> 
> I've got a sinking feeling that I'll either have to put it on the left side (near the exhaust ports), hide it behind the front panel, or use a bay res...


Should not be a problem, or rather that depends on how you mount it. The Kingpin is about 280mm long without the cooler on (the same with it on as well) and this will be to long for the res mount that is currenbtly in the case unless you make some cust in it like @Faster is Better did in his build "Silent Irony", but that would only be if you have a second card in there. If you want to mount a resrvoir between the card and the bay area you can do so, but you need to push it a bit closer to the bays than what the res mount holes imply.

I'm doing a mount that's similar with my old HD7950 that is 275mm long and I removed the res mount and I'm using the EK-UNI Holder DDC V2 to mount it all teh way next to the bays, I havent done it yet so I might have to do some cutting to make it fit, but I'm prepared for that. Suffice to say, you can fit something there but you may have to get a bit creative.


----------



## Sorphius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> Should not be a problem, or rather that depends on how you mount it. The Kingpin is about 280mm long without the cooler on (the same with it on as well) and this will be to long for the res mount that is currenbtly in the case unless you make some cust in it like @Faster is Better did in his build "Silent Irony", but that would only be if you have a second card in there. If you want to mount a resrvoir between the card and the bay area you can do so, but you need to push it a bit closer to the bays than what the res mount holes imply.
> 
> I'm doing a mount that's similar with my old HD7950 that is 275mm long and I removed the res mount and I'm using the EK-UNI Holder DDC V2 to mount it all teh way next to the bays, I havent done it yet so I might have to do some cutting to make it fit, but I'm prepared for that. Suffice to say, you can fit something there but you may have to get a bit creative.


Okay, that puts my mind at ease somewhat. I'm not adverse to a little bit of cutting to make things fit, as long as the finished product turns out looking presentable. And while I have the two K|NGP|Ns in my posession, I don't actually own the case or reservoir yet so can't take any measurements. I just want to avoid a worst-case scenario, where I buy the res, blocks, etc., and then find out that there's no way they'll fit into the space where I want them.


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sorphius*
> 
> Okay, that puts my mind at ease somewhat. I'm not adverse to a little bit of cutting to make things fit, as long as the finished product turns out looking presentable. And while I have the two K|NGP|Ns in my posession, I don't actually own the case or reservoir yet so can't take any measurements. I just want to avoid a worst-case scenario, where I buy the res, blocks, etc., and then find out that there's no way they'll fit into the space where I want them.


I was thinking about it for a bit and if you move the HDD bay all the way to the front (there are two slots you can fit them in one of which is to acomodate for a thin radiator in the front of thecase while still having the HDD bays), then the only thing that may have to be cut a bit would be the bottom of the 5.25 bays to acomodate the reservoir. Granted this will likely not be needed, but it is possible. Slap a u-channel on there and it won't look half bad.


----------



## Sorphius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> I was thinking about it for a bit and if you move the HDD bay all the way to the front (there are two slots you can fit them in one of which is to acomodate for a thin radiator in the front of thecase while still having the HDD bays), then the only thing that may have to be cut a bit would be the bottom of the 5.25 bays to acomodate the reservoir. Granted this will likely not be needed, but it is possible. Slap a u-channel on there and it won't look half bad.


Cool.

This would all be a lot less of a headache if I owned the case... I really should just go ahead and buy it in order to take measurements and draw up schematics, even though I'm not planning on actually doing the full build until November.

I think two 480mm rads (one on top and one on bottom) should be enough to dissipate the heat from a 6700k and two 980tis, so I'm thinking I'll just pop two 140mm fans into the front panel to bring in cool air.


----------



## Myloween

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sorphius*
> 
> Thanks for sharing! Time to see how much French I've forgotten in the past 15 years...


So, good luck


----------



## Bojamijams

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sorphius*
> 
> Cool.
> 
> This would all be a lot less of a headache if I owned the case... I really should just go ahead and buy it in order to take measurements and draw up schematics, even though I'm not planning on actually doing the full build until November.
> 
> I think two 480mm rads (one on top and one on bottom) should be enough to dissipate the heat from a 6700k and two 980tis, so I'm thinking I'll just pop two 140mm fans into the front panel to bring in cool air.


One 480 is enough for that, but go nuts if you want to


----------



## Faster_is_better

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Myloween*
> 
> My Enthoo Primo setup is almost finished too, I think add some white light strip behind radiators and RGB light strip for a purple or orange atmosphere.
> You can see the full gallery here :
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/a
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


And I thought I had a plumbing nightmare! Looks really good. Everything from the tubing runs, to hardware, color matching, looks great!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sorphius*
> 
> Anybody put a water cooled 980ti K|NGP|N (11" long) into an Enthoo Primo? I'm looking to do a new (re)build in the next month or two and am trying to figure out whether I'd be able to mount an EK X3 reservoir between my video cards and the 5.25 bays.
> 
> I've got a sinking feeling that I'll either have to put it on the left side (near the exhaust ports), hide it behind the front panel, or use a bay res...


Take a look at my measurements under "General Measurements" on my Primo Measurements Thread

The card is a r9 290 there for reference, I really need to get the measurement for that and add to that image, for better reference.


----------



## Sorphius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Faster_is_better*
> 
> Take a look at my measurements under "General Measurements" on my Primo Measurements Thread
> 
> The card is a r9 290 there for reference, I really need to get the measurement for that and add to that image, for better reference.


You, sir, get all my upvotes. That's a great resource. Thanks for pointing it out!

The R9 290 is 11.61", btw... compared to 11" for the 980ti K|NGP|N.


----------



## Faster_is_better

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sorphius*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Faster_is_better*
> 
> Take a look at my measurements under "General Measurements" on my Primo Measurements Thread
> 
> The card is a r9 290 there for reference, I really need to get the measurement for that and add to that image, for better reference.
> 
> 
> 
> You, sir, get all my upvotes. That's a great resource. Thanks for pointing it out!
> 
> The R9 290 is 11.61", btw... compared to 11" for the 980ti K|NGP|N.
Click to expand...

I just looked it up again, measurement seems to be "The 290X PCB measures 10.5-inches in length, but the GPU cooler extends past the PCB pushing the length to nearly 11-inches" Source from legitreviews

So in that pic the end of my cards should be right at 10.5" since they are reference design and without the air HSF.

edit: just updated the pics in that thread with notations


----------



## Sorphius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Faster_is_better*
> 
> I just looked it up again, measurement seems to be "The 290X PCB measures 10.5-inches in length, but the GPU cooler extends past the PCB pushing the length to nearly 11-inches" Source from legitreviews
> 
> So in that pic the end of my cards should be right at 10.5" since they are reference design and without the air HSF.


Ahhhh, right. My second 980ti is supposed to be delivered to my house any minute now... I'm going to measure the PCB when I get home to settle this once and for all. The official listed length is 11", but I can't remember off the top of my head if the PCB runs that full length or not. I *think* it does, but I'm not completely sure.


----------



## Faster_is_better

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sorphius*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Faster_is_better*
> 
> I just looked it up again, measurement seems to be "The 290X PCB measures 10.5-inches in length, but the GPU cooler extends past the PCB pushing the length to nearly 11-inches" Source from legitreviews
> 
> So in that pic the end of my cards should be right at 10.5" since they are reference design and without the air HSF.
> 
> 
> 
> Ahhhh, right. My second 980ti is supposed to be delivered to my house any minute now... I'm going to measure the PCB when I get home to settle this once and for all. The official listed length is 11", but I can't remember off the top of my head if the PCB runs that full length or not. I *think* it does, but I'm not completely sure.
Click to expand...

Not to far back someone else asked about mounting a 980ti with a reservoir there, and there was enough clearance for a 60mm res I think. It was tight though. You may have to check quite a few pages back, this thread moves fairly quick.


----------



## Sorphius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Faster_is_better*
> 
> Not to far back someone else asked about mounting a 980ti with a reservoir there, and there was enough clearance for a 60mm res I think. It was tight though. You may have to check quite a few pages back, this thread moves fairly quick.


A 980ti will fit fine because it's only 10.5". The issue is that the Classified and Kingpin are 11".


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sorphius*
> 
> A 980ti will fit fine because it's only 10.5". The issue is that the Classified and Kingpin are 11".


As far as I can tell (and I'm operating in CM her instead of inches), the Kingpin is supposed to be 28cm with the cooler and 28cm without the cooler. So it seems to be the same.

That said I always take review results with a grain of salt: http://www.hardwareluxx.com/index.php/news/hardware/vgacards/36075-reviewed-evga-geforce-gtx-980-ti-kingpin.html?start=1


----------



## Sorphius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> As far as I can tell (and I'm operating in CM her instead of inches), the Kingpin is supposed to be 28cm with the cooler and 28cm without the cooler. So it seems to be the same.
> 
> That said I always take review results with a grain of salt: http://www.hardwareluxx.com/index.php/news/hardware/vgacards/36075-reviewed-evga-geforce-gtx-980-ti-kingpin.html?start=1


I measured last night and it is the advertised 11". I'm thinking about maybe seeing about using a slim 480 rad on bottom in push-only and using all that space above it to mount a horizontal tube res.

I'm doing the actual build in mid-November (already put in for three days off work lol), but I'll probably order the case in the next week or so in order to take measurements for myself. The picture thread is great, but there's no real substitute for holding it with your own two hands.


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sorphius*
> 
> I measured last night and it is the advertised 11". I'm thinking about maybe seeing about using a slim 480 rad on bottom in push-only and using all that space above it to mount a horizontal tube res.
> 
> I'm doing the actual build in mid-November (already put in for three days off work lol), but I'll probably order the case in the next week or so in order to take measurements for myself. The picture thread is great, but there's no real substitute for holding it with your own two hands.


Teh reservoir thing is not a bad idea, but you won't have to go to thin in the bottom to fit that setup either. Considering the amount of space you may be able to fit a reservoir on top of a push/pull setup (with 25mm fans) on a 60mm thick radiator. I mean the amount of space it really a lot in the bottom part there, only thing that really limits you is if you want to use your HDD cage.


----------



## Sorphius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> Teh reservoir thing is not a bad idea, but you won't have to go to thin in the bottom to fit that setup either. Considering the amount of space you may be able to fit a reservoir on top of a push/pull setup (with 25mm fans) on a 60mm thick radiator. I mean the amount of space it really a lot in the bottom part there, only thing that really limits you is if you want to use your HDD cage.


I don't need *all* the hard drive cages, but I will need to mount one in order to continue the auto-backup on my SSD RAID array. I suppose I could always just suspend it with elastic bands in the 5.25" bay...

As for the radiator thickness, I'd like to put a 60 down there in push-pull, but a 30 in push would save me $80 on fans and give me more room to ensure clear air flow. More rad space is good, but a Nemesis Stealth 480 in bottom with an EK XE480 in push-pull up top should be more than enough for two 980tis and a 6700k.

IDK, I need to just order the damn thing and do an actual mockup with different layouts.


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sorphius*
> 
> I don't need *all* the hard drive cages, but I will need to mount one in order to continue the auto-backup on my SSD RAID array. I suppose I could always just suspend it with elastic bands in the 5.25" bay...
> 
> As for the radiator thickness, I'd like to put a 60 down there in push-pull, but a 30 in push would save me $80 on fans and give me more room to ensure clear air flow. More rad space is good, but a Nemesis Stealth 480 in bottom with an EK XE480 in push-pull up top should be more than enough for two 980tis and a 6700k.
> 
> IDK, I need to just order the damn thing and do an actual mockup with different layouts.


Not saying you need a 60mm rad, I'm just saying you can fit one. Heck I'm sure you can even fit a monsta and cram a reservoir in there due to the sheer width of the case. Just because someone mentions that it fits, doesn't mean that you need to fit one. I usually refer to teh max size that can fit in a case since it shows that anything lower will fit. For a cpu and two GPU's then a single 480 would be enough for that matter, but it's always nice to have the option to add more if you want. Hece why I mention the leargest possible usually


----------



## Faster_is_better

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sorphius*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> Teh reservoir thing is not a bad idea, but you won't have to go to thin in the bottom to fit that setup either. Considering the amount of space you may be able to fit a reservoir on top of a push/pull setup (with 25mm fans) on a 60mm thick radiator. I mean the amount of space it really a lot in the bottom part there, only thing that really limits you is if you want to use your HDD cage.
> 
> 
> 
> I don't need *all* the hard drive cages, but I will need to mount one in order to continue the auto-backup on my SSD RAID array. I suppose I could always just suspend it with elastic bands in the 5.25" bay...
> 
> As for the radiator thickness, I'd like to put a 60 down there in push-pull, but a 30 in push would save me $80 on fans and give me more room to ensure clear air flow. More rad space is good, but a Nemesis Stealth 480 in bottom with an EK XE480 in push-pull up top should be more than enough for two 980tis and a 6700k.
> 
> IDK, I need to just order the damn thing and do an actual mockup with different layouts.
Click to expand...

I got quite a lot of pics with the 2x 480 rads and push/pull configuration measurements on that page. Also I fit one of the hdd bays while using a 60mm rad in bottom with push pull 38mm thick fans. It is really tight since I had to use a 90 from that end of the radiator but it works.

See the clearance here



With the 38mm fans, if you instead went with a Monsta rad (80mm) and typical 24mm thick fans, they would come out about the same height and you can see there is still a lot of room above that until you hit my bottom GPU. Could mount a horizontal tube res even with this setup.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Faster_is_better*
> 
> I got quite a lot of pics with the 2x 480 rads and push/pull configuration measurements on that page. Also I fit one of the hdd bays while using a 60mm rad in bottom with push pull 38mm thick fans. It is really tight since I had to use a 90 from that end of the radiator but it works.
> 
> With the 38mm fans, if you instead went with a Monsta rad (80mm) and typical 24mm thick fans, they would come out about the same height and you can see there is still a lot of room above that until you hit my bottom GPU. Could mount a horizontal tube res even with this setup.


eh you could still fit a slim fan in there in the front


----------



## Bojamijams

LOL @ 2x 480's for just those 3 blocks.

Not an insult btw. Love how oversized that cooling is


----------



## Dasper

@Gdourado

I do and (untill i saved up te money for a full loop) my build is air cooled!

front fan is still the stock Phanteks 200mm for intake, top has dual 120mm random cheap fans from an old CM case for exhaust and i have no idea what fan is in the back also for exhasu
My 4690K(still on stock with new mobo since i haven't had the time to OC it up again) with Cryorig H7 Ramps up to ~70c Full load and my EVGA 980 SC has gotten as high as 66c full load.
Hottest i've seen the cpu/gpu go after a few hours of GTA V was 61/63. The GPU has a harder time cooling tho since it's pretty close to the PSU cover.


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bojamijams*
> 
> LOL @ 2x 480's for just those 3 blocks.
> 
> Not an insult btw. Love how oversized that cooling is


Overkill is always fun, doing double 480s on a two block build myself so I can safely say I'm a member of the overkill club







Good thing though is that I have the option to expand as much as I want without ever worying about cooling


----------



## Sorphius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bojamijams*
> 
> LOL @ 2x 480's for just those 3 blocks.
> 
> Not an insult btw. Love how oversized that cooling is


More is better, baby.


----------



## Faster_is_better

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bojamijams*
> 
> LOL @ 2x 480's for just those 3 blocks.
> 
> Not an insult btw. Love how oversized that cooling is


Lots of people went dual 480s in this case. The overkill part of my rig is using 3700 RPM Deltas all around... Although I am running some of the hottest cards too, 300w each at 100% usage wouldn't be out the question and then the CPU on top of that...

Temps are sweet though









15% fan speed is super quiet, I can hear my WD Blacks (didn't realize they were so loud lol). But during gaming I have to crank up to about 30% speed which is still really quiet... and keeps cpu/gpu temps under 50C almost always.

Overkill was a large part of this build


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bojamijams*
> 
> LOL @ 2x 480's for just those 3 blocks.
> 
> Not an insult btw. Love how oversized that cooling is


Dual 480 is where it's at for the Primo. Can run those fans at such low speeds.


----------



## Sorphius

I just SOOOOOOOOOOOO wish they made the Primo with a blue interior option in addition to the red, white, green, and orange choices that they have.


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sorphius*
> 
> I just SOOOOOOOOOOOO wish they made the Primo with a blue interior option in addition to the red, white, green, and orange choices that they have.


Why not just amke one yourself? I know there are examples of people doing the White edition as a mod since it's not readily available outside of Europe/Germany. It's a bit of work, but what don't we do for our passion


----------



## Sorphius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> Why not just amke one yourself? I know there are examples of people doing the White edition as a mod since it's not readily available outside of Europe/Germany. It's a bit of work, but what don't we do for our passion


Yeah I know, I'll likely end up having to do that. It would just be so much easier if I could just pay an extra $50 or something to have it done for me...

Besides, seriously... Lime Green? Who the check makes their color decisions???


----------



## Faster_is_better

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sorphius*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> Why not just amke one yourself? I know there are examples of people doing the White edition as a mod since it's not readily available outside of Europe/Germany. It's a bit of work, but what don't we do for our passion
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah I know, I'll likely end up having to do that. It would just be so much easier if I could just pay an extra $50 or something to have it done for me...
> 
> Besides, seriously... Lime Green? Who the check makes their color decisions???
Click to expand...

Green for Nvidia, Red to match 90% of color schemes (lol) and AMD, Orange just because it's cool... Blue should definitely be added though it is a common color. Send them a complaint/suggestion via email, maybe if they get a lot of them they will add it.


----------



## scottsorb

Thought I would post some pics of my new Phanteks Enthoo Luxe rig. Hand's down the best case I've owned beating Cooler Master & Corsair cases with ease. Was a pleasure to work in and so many options made my build go on for hours! Still have some cable issues to iron out and expand my cooling, but I'm quite pleased with my first attempt at a custom build.


----------



## jdmR

I just preorded my evolv atx, excited to be joining this club soon


----------



## Bojamijams

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jdmR*
> 
> I just preorded my evolv atx, excited to be joining this club soon


Where did you pre-order from? I'm having trouble finding it (in Canada)


----------



## michael-ocn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jdmR*
> 
> I just preorded my evolv atx, excited to be joining this club soon


Me too, a grey one from the phantekusa site. Amazon's taking orders for them now too.
http://www.amazon.com/Phanteks-PH-ES515E_AG-Enthoo-Chassis-Antracite/dp/B00YQKQZ72/


----------



## jdmR

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bojamijams*
> 
> Where did you pre-order from? I'm having trouble finding it (in Canada)


it was amazon usa, but u might wanna contact phanteks and ask them if they u can preorder for canada
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *michael-ocn*
> 
> Me too, a grey one from the phantekusa site. Amazon's taking orders for them now too.
> http://www.amazon.com/Phanteks-PH-ES515E_AG-Enthoo-Chassis-Antracite/dp/B00YQKQZ72/


I went with amazon finally using my gift cards, cant wait to see what you do with yours


----------



## Jorgekovski

Hi guys, new case arrived


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

@Jorgekovski that looks nice. Is that a custom backplate?


----------



## emsj86

Coldzero.eu has custom backplates and you can have them so made to whatever you like with a picture emailed


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jorgekovski*
> 
> Hi guys, new case arrived


that's a pretty nice looking case...it's too plain for me outside but it does have nice lines and the interior looks well laid out...I don't think I've ever seen that many combs on a pcie cable before though lol


----------



## michael-ocn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> that's a pretty nice looking case...it's too plain for me outside but it does have nice lines and the interior looks well laid out...I don't think I've ever seen that many combs on a pcie cable before though lol


I've been thinking about taking the front and top panels to a techshop.ws and doing some cnc/milling work those broad flat surfaces? I think it could improve the looks and cooling characteristics. Also maybe mill a grid of 1/4" holes thru the side panel window to let gpu exhaust escape out the side of the case.


----------



## rfarmer

Man wish that had been available when I bought mine, would have done a nice red/black build with that.


----------



## owcraftsman

ENTHOO LUXE

Just an update still can't say I finished but mostly done. Some may recall I posted pics when I painted the interior. Quit a while back I just haven't had a lot of time to work on my builds lately. The toughest part was moving this board out of the primo to make room for a new build in it. Basically two builds and being without both in the process.

The pics are from SGS5 so I apologizes for the over saturated low light pics. Believe me when I say it looks much better in person. The goals for this build was to paint the interior white, keep the PSU cover in place, add rad to top and front, use my Monson Series 2 Dual bay D5 Pump/Res highlighted at the front of the case and light up the rear I"O panel. This is my everday PC not my gamer which is in the Primo.



View of the back of the Monsoon res You can't see it in this shot but my Data Hard Drive is in a silicone case and sits upright next to the front rad



The gutts



My LED strip I/O mod Dimmed in bios



another view



And the side view with door in place to bad the glass $ucks hate that but I'll be replacing it soon


----------



## owcraftsman

Ehthoo Primo

Another work in progress. Still adjusting lighting and need to add a few custom cables but the basic idea is illustrated. Again I apologize for the poor low light over saturated pics from my SGS5.





Blue on the outside and red black and white on the inside



One of the best mods I've done in terms of being practical did wonders for my GPU VRM temps



minimal tubing in this loop



Cable Management still a work in progress as mentioned above



BTW that's a 60mm rad in push pull in the top of the case.

That's it for now


----------



## Faster_is_better

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *owcraftsman*
> 
> Ehthoo Primo
> 
> Another work in progress. Still adjusting lighting and need to add a few custom cables but the basic idea is illustrated. Again I apologize for the poor low light over saturated pics from my SGS5.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Blue on the outside and red black and white on the inside
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One of the best mods I've done in terms of being practical did wonders for my GPU VRM temps
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> minimal tubing in this loop
> 
> 
> 
> Cable Management still a work in progress as mentioned above
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> BTW that's a 60mm rad in push pull in the top of the case.
> That's it for now


Nice, I really need to unplug mine and take some beauty shots.

Even with your cards watercooled the fans blowing over them helped VRM that much? Do you have any before/after numbers? Hmm I guess I can't really do that mod since my res is right in the way, but still interesting to know. Thanks

BTW you have your plastic covers on the EK badges still









Do you have a buildlog? I want to know how you did your clear window


----------



## Sorphius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> Why not just amke one yourself? I know there are examples of people doing the White edition as a mod since it's not readily available outside of Europe/Germany. It's a bit of work, but what don't we do for our passion


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sorphius*
> 
> Yeah I know, I'll likely end up having to do that. It would just be so much easier if I could just pay an extra $50 or something to have it done for me...


So... score! I've got an in with the auto body teacher at the local career and technical prep school, and he'll be able to have his class paint my case panels blue as a project. They've got a fully equipped auto paint shop, and all it will cost me is the cost of the paint and primer.

It's good to know people. Blue interior, here we come! And I don't have to spend hours sanding, priming, and painting.


----------



## PatrickCrowely

My all black Enthoo Primo arrived today & the build quality is a 10! Case is about the same size as my Switch 810, but the build quality is on another level


----------



## BarneyRubble

Hard to beat for the money isn't it?


----------



## rfarmer

Looks good, now fill it up.


----------



## PatrickCrowely

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BarneyRubble*
> 
> Hard to beat for the money isn't it?


It's a steal for 249, the options you get are crazy!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rfarmer*
> 
> Looks good, now fill it up.


Will do sir, will do! Have to wait till the weekend. Got a lot of bending of tube..


----------



## Faster_is_better

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PatrickCrowely*
> 
> My all black Enthoo Primo arrived today & the build quality is a 10! Case is about the same size as my Switch 810, but the build quality is on another level
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


What are you going to put in it? Build log?


----------



## PatrickCrowely

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Faster_is_better*
> 
> What are you going to put in it? Build log?


No build log, just my sig rig, but I'm going to add a 480, PETG tubing & thinking about another 980 Ti. My Switch 810 has run it's course.


----------



## owcraftsman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Faster_is_better*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *owcraftsman*
> 
> Ehthoo Primo
> 
> 
> 
> Nice, I really need to unplug mine and take some beauty shots.
> 
> Even with your cards watercooled the fans blowing over them helped VRM that much? Do you have any before/after numbers? Hmm I guess I can't really do that mod since my res is right in the way, but still interesting to know. Thanks
> 
> BTW you have your plastic covers on the EK badges still
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Do you have a buildlog? I want to know how you did your clear window
Click to expand...

Maybe it's the EK backplates but yes that much vs backplate no fans VRM 2 (top card) ranged idle 42 to 45 and now never goes over 37 idle. The two high speed Yate Loons that blow on them ramp up with the other fans off the Phanteks fan hub. I use Aida64 OSD to monitor most parameters at all times on a 2nd monitor so I'm constantly aware of where I'm at. While gaming before the mod the VRM2 (top card) got to high 60s and now mid 50s. Of course I paid a bit more attention just before and just after the mod but I have no empirical data to support my claims.

I'll say this too I have a third 290x (see sig) with the Kyrographics Hawaii block w/Active Backplate and it's every bit as effective as the fans idle and better under load. Better in every way than the passive EK backplate.

Ya I know the stickers are still on but like I said she's still a work in progress 

No build logs other than those I've shared in this thread. Here's the window mod log http://www.overclock.net/t/1418637/official-case-phanteks-case-club-for-lovers-owners/5150_50#post_22687876

The log of the full glass mod a few pages after that is easier and looks much better if I had it to do over that would be the way to go. 3/8" plexi or acrylic cut to size with magnetic closure the actual opening is perfect for it which is why I suspect MNPC is selling them.

edit: Surprised no one noticed the dual Phanteks fan hubs (courtesy of wjturner78 thanks again man!) they control all fans off 2 mobo PWM headers 14 set intake (filtered) 1 exhaust top rear and 2 interior VRM fans


----------



## jdmR

Does anyone happen to know the max reservoir size that can fit in the Evolv ATX?


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jdmR*
> 
> Does anyone happen to know the max reservoir size that can fit in the Evolv ATX?


There is just shy of 300mm in height from the floor to the slide in rad mount.


----------



## Faster_is_better

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *owcraftsman*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Faster_is_better*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *owcraftsman*
> 
> Ehthoo Primo
> 
> 
> 
> Nice, I really need to unplug mine and take some beauty shots.
> 
> Even with your cards watercooled the fans blowing over them helped VRM that much? Do you have any before/after numbers? Hmm I guess I can't really do that mod since my res is right in the way, but still interesting to know. Thanks
> 
> BTW you have your plastic covers on the EK badges still
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Do you have a buildlog? I want to know how you did your clear window
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Maybe it's the EK backplates but yes that much vs backplate no fans VRM 2 (top card) ranged idle 42 to 45 and now never goes over 37 idle. The two high speed Yate Loons that blow on them ramp up with the other fans off the Phanteks fan hub. I use Aida64 OSD to monitor most parameters at all times on a 2nd monitor so I'm constantly aware of where I'm at. While gaming before the mod the VRM2 (top card) got to high 60s and now mid 50s. Of course I paid a bit more attention just before and just after the mod but I have no empirical data to support my claims.
> 
> I'll say this too I have a third 290x (see sig) with the Kyrographics Hawaii block w/Active Backplate and it's every bit as effective as the fans idle and better under load. Better in every way than the passive EK backplate.
> 
> Ya I know the stickers are still on but like I said she's still a work in progress
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> No build logs other than those I've shared in this thread. Here's the window mod log http://www.overclock.net/t/1418637/official-case-phanteks-case-club-for-lovers-owners/5150_50#post_22687876
> The log of the full glass mod a few pages after that is easier and looks much better if I had it to do over that would be the way to go. 3/8" plexi or acrylic cut to size with magnetic closure the actual opening is perfect for it which is why I suspect MNPC is selling them.
> 
> edit: Surprised no one noticed the dual Phanteks fan hubs (courtesy of wjturner78 thanks again man!) they control all fans off 2 mobo PWM headers 14 set intake (filtered) 1 exhaust top rear and 2 interior VRM fans
Click to expand...

So you got roughly 10C drop on VRM temp with fans added? That's pretty awesome.

Nice window writeup Thanks. This needs to be added to OP @doyll At least I think we should start compiling some of the frequently done/asked about mods into OP since they are hard to resurrect from this massive thread.

Interesting that you made it detachable with velcro. I'm not a fan of the giant window side panel replacement. Using the original Phanteks side panel with cutout looks great to me, I just don't like that they went with the smoked color window...

Nobody mentioned the Phanteks hub because it has clogged up this thread with so many problems


----------



## Ramzinho

lol posted on the wrong forum


----------



## owcraftsman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Faster_is_better*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *owcraftsman*
> 
> 
> 
> Nobody mentioned the Phanteks hub because it has clogged up this thread with so many problems
Click to expand...

I've seen the post annoying in many more ways than one. All I can say is they work well for me simple effective and integrated I love having them. Kudos to Phanteks and I hope they keep making them. It's to bad peeps can't know what they are what they are for and how to use them on there own. Figure it out or move on.

THIS IS NOT AN OPEN INVITATION FOR DISCUSSION I HAVE NOTHING ELSE TO SAY ABOUT THE FAN HUB


----------



## CeeeJaaay

I tried fitting a 420mm radiator in the top compartment of the Enthoo Luxe, but unfortunately it doesn't fit by about 1cm because of the locking mechanism. Is there an easy way to remove it? Is that even possible without damaging it?


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramzinho*
> 
> hope i'm not late to the party.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also i'll install these custom grills onto the panels. Cause this is my only concern about the Case. it's 12C warmer on every component in the loop with the panels on.
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Ramzinho my man, nice H440 build, but this isn't the right club.


----------



## majik73

I have a question/problem. I'm new to watercooling and I recently got a Coolgate Quad 140mm Radiator (its 60mm thick btw) and was hoping to put it in the top of the Phantek Enthoo Primo case. I did notice that with the rack that hold the HDD cages in it wont fit so I was wondering if I removed the rack would it fit? I do know that the rack was removed once before (see pic).


I was hoping if anyone could be kind enough to give me a few pointers in how to remove the back part of the rack so I could (if it's possible to fit the rad in the top) fit it in the top. Thanks for any help.


----------



## BLAMM0

In progress, the old paint was at fault... Bought new spray cans - metallic black, primed and etc.


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *majik73*
> 
> I have a question/problem. I'm new to watercooling and I recently got a Coolgate Quad 140mm Radiator (its 60mm thick btw) and was hoping to put it in the top of the Phantek Enthoo Primo case. I did notice that with the rack that hold the HDD cages in it wont fit so I was wondering if I removed the rack would it fit? I do know that the rack was removed once before (see pic).
> 
> 
> I was hoping if anyone could be kind enough to give me a few pointers in how to remove the back part of the rack so I could (if it's possible to fit the rad in the top) fit it in the top. Thanks for any help.


the Primo doesn't fit 560 rads, the length of the case is enough to fit a 480 rad and a 25mm fan on the inside. the coolgate 560 rad is 614mm long and the Primo is only 600mm deep including the front panel (the frame of the case is less than that by at least 40mm).


----------



## Faster_is_better

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PureBlackFire*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ramzinho*
> 
> hope i'm not late to the party.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also i'll install these custom grills onto the panels. Cause this is my only concern about the Case. it's 12C warmer on every component in the loop with the panels on.
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ramzinho my man, nice H440 build, but this isn't the right club.
Click to expand...

Whoops, I think it was my fault.







I gave him a link to this thread for info and he must have posted that beauty here instead of W/C club


----------



## majik73

I have a question/problem. I'm new to watercooling and I recently got a Coolgate Quad 140mm Radiator (its 60mm thick btw) and was hoping to put it in the top of the Phantek Enthoo Primo case. I did notice that with the rack that hold the HDD cages in it wont fit so I was wondering if I removed the rack would it fit? I do know that the rack was removed once before


I was hoping if anyone could be kind enough to give me a few pointers in how to remove the back part of the rack so I could (if it's possible to fit the rad in the top) fit it in the top. Thanks for any help.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PureBlackFire*
> 
> the Primo doesn't fit 560 rads, the length of the case is enough to fit a 480 rad and a 25mm fan on the inside. the coolgate 560 rad is 614mm long and the Primo is only 600mm deep including the front panel (the frame of the case is less than that by at least 40mm).


I made a REALLY REALLY big oops! O well, live and learn (picked it up used for $60 so no big deal ;p). I was wondering can a radiator fit under the screen on the top of the case for a push only config?


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *majik73*
> 
> I made a REALLY REALLY big oops! O well, live and learn (picked it up used for $60 so no big deal ;p). I was wondering can a radiator fit under the screen on the top of the case for a push only config?


yea, that sucks. don't feel too silly, I see many people put the cart before the horse like that still. you can put a rad under the top mesh, just has to be a 480 rad and a relatively thin one. @Faster_is_better is better qualified to answer this question.


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *majik73*
> 
> I have a question/problem. I'm new to watercooling and I recently got a Coolgate Quad 140mm Radiator (its 60mm thick btw) and was hoping to put it in the top of the Phantek Enthoo Primo case. I did notice that with the rack that hold the HDD cages in it wont fit so I was wondering if I removed the rack would it fit? I do know that the rack was removed once before
> 
> 
> I was hoping if anyone could be kind enough to give me a few pointers in how to remove the back part of the rack so I could (if it's possible to fit the rad in the top) fit it in the top. Thanks for any help.
> I made a REALLY REALLY big oops! O well, live and learn (picked it up used for $60 so no big deal ;p). I was wondering can a radiator fit under the screen on the top of the case for a push only config?


Probably, although you would have to drill holes for the inlet/outlet. Also 480mm is still the maximum length, and to fit it under the top cover you would likely have to use something 30mm or thinner. Don't know before you try









On another note... why would you mount it under the top cover? there is just so much space above the MB that I don't see any real reason to do so...

Edit: actually you made me kind of curious... I did a trial fit with a 30mm thick 360mm rad I have laying around... and the short answer is NO, it won't fit. You may be able to do it with a slimmer radiator, but with the one I have I couldn't put the top grill back on. With a bit of modification though... I don't see why not, you would need a new grill for the top to allow the thickness and the max length would be 360mm or maybe 420mm due to the size of the chambers. But yeah, I would say it's doable with some modifications.

Still though why would you do it? I mean there is no need for it considering the space in the case.


----------



## PureBlackFire

^ that's odd. the top cover on the primo looks at least as tall as the one on the Luxe and I put a 30mm 360 rad under there on the Luxe and the mesh closed over it fine.


----------



## Faster_is_better

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PureBlackFire*
> 
> ^ that's odd. the top cover on the primo looks at least as tall as the one on the Luxe and I put a 30mm 360 rad under there on the Luxe and the mesh closed over it fine.


I trimmed the top grill in my Primo to try and fit 38mm fans, Realistically I would probably need at least 8-10mm more height to fit them in without modifying the grill more. The way the latches work on the front are the biggest issue, since they are basically recessed 8-10mm below the top of the panel itself.


With cutting out a lot of the support structure for the mesh grill though, a 38mm fan just about fits, maybe 2-3mm shy of perfect fit, but you can only fit 2 of them in the center unless you do something a bit more crazy (modding).

30mm rad may fit but there are other clearance issues with length, especially if you went to a 480 it would be hard to keep stock look/functionality.

Here's what I did to mine to try and get that clearance, almost but not quite so I abandoned and have other plans.


----------



## PureBlackFire

^man, the Luxe' top compartment is not only deeper it seems, but if those are 120mm fans it's definitely a wider space as well.


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PureBlackFire*
> 
> ^man, the Luxe' top compartment is not only deeper it seems, but if those are 120mm fans it's definitely a wider space as well.


It might be one of those things that Phanteks has learned along the way I'm guessing.

So event hough I'm not expecting a new Primo any time soon, I'm expecting they will release something along the lines of mk. II in the future with small things like this fixed. That said, I'm not sure how most manufacturers do it. When looking at something like Corsair they just make an entirelly new case instead, but then you ahve ones like Fractal Design making new iterations of the same case with slight updates along the way (one of the things I really love about Fractal really).

Anyways, like @Faster_is_better mentioned the issue with a 480mm is the chambers at the end of the radiator. Teh top cover of the primo can hold just about 480mm in total length, but as we all know there isn't really any 480mm radiators that is actually 480mm long including the chambers. Something along the lines of a 420mm might work if the chambers doesn't build more than 60mm/6cm past the fans and it doesn't build more than 140mm/14cm in width. A 360mm should work without pronblems though, but you would have to get one that is thin enough to clear the support beams on the top grill or modify it to work with a 30mm radiator like Faster_Is_Better did for his delta fans


----------



## Faster_is_better

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PureBlackFire*
> 
> ^man, the Luxe' top compartment is not only deeper it seems, but if those are 120mm fans it's definitely a wider space as well.


Actually 140mm x 24mm fans will work on the top, and that is a 120mm x 38mm fan in picture. The plastic cover is like 38-40mm high, basically if you set a 38mm fan to be mounted in that spot it is perfectly level with the top of the plastic panel. IIRC the actual fan mounts are raised up slightly 1-2mm but I may not be remembering that right. Seems like they were, or maybe the discrepancy is with using a gasket, where the 38mm fan lined up flush with the top.

I don't have any Delta 38mm tall fans in the top now since I wanted to retain stock look and mounting points of the top filter. Just have some random 24mm fans up there for now to hold the radiator lol

I do have some ideas how to mod them in but it will take some $$ and custom work.


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> It might be one of those things that Phanteks has learned along the way I'm guessing.
> 
> So event hough I'm not expecting a new Primo any time soon, I'm expecting they will release something along the lines of mk. II in the future with small things like this fixed. That said, I'm not sure how most manufacturers do it. When looking at something like Corsair they just make an entirelly new case instead, but then you ahve ones like Fractal Design making new iterations of the same case with slight updates along the way (one of the things I really love about Fractal really).
> 
> Anyways, like @Faster_is_better mentioned the issue with a 480mm is the chambers at the end of the radiator. Teh top cover of the primo can hold just about 480mm in total length, but as we all know there isn't really any 480mm radiators that is actually 480mm long including the chambers. Something along the lines of a 420mm might work if the chambers doesn't build more than 60mm/6cm past the fans and it doesn't build more than 140mm/14cm in width. A 360mm should work without pronblems though, but you would have to get one that is thin enough to clear the support beams on the top grill or modify it to work with a 30mm radiator like Faster_Is_Better did for his delta fans


guess so. I would really like some case revisions from Phanteks and Corsair. the top chamber in the Luxe meets it's limitation with 420 rad. they ought to rethink the clip mechanism as it's just plain in the way. it took a long time for Corsair to put out a better front panel for the 750D, they launched a whole new case with it (450D) based on the 300R frame. then even with this new airflow edition, which is the 750D with the front panel they've been selling on the website for months now, there still aren't rubber pads under the psu, still no bottom dust filter. my 750D got so dusty inside so quick. the only other complaint I have is the lack of slotted fan mounting holes on the top and rear of the case. but enough on that, I'll save it for the 750D owner's club hehe. know what else is cool? the Pro and Luxe have room, like the physical space, for a few 480 rads (up to 518mm long) in the top, but the top covers and fan slots are obviously not designed with that in mind. modding to fit a 480 seems like it would go easier in the Pro (or at least not having a separate chamber and being limited to one row of fans makes it simpler) as you just drill some holes and cut the top panel (or just drill holes and have some of the radiator core blocked), maybe move the power button and mount a relatively short, thin 480 rad inside the case and the fans under it. in the Luxe you can't get 4x120mm fans under the top cover solely because of the


http://imgur.com/PTXRNFq

r.


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Faster_is_better*
> 
> Actually 140mm x 24mm fans will work on the top, and that is a 120mm x 38mm fan in picture. The plastic cover is like 38-40mm high, basically if you set a 38mm fan to be mounted in that spot it is perfectly level with the top of the plastic panel. IIRC the actual fan mounts are raised up slightly 1-2mm but I may not be remembering that right. Seems like they were, or maybe the discrepancy is with using a gasket, where the 38mm fan lined up flush with the top.
> 
> I don't have any Delta 38mm tall fans in the top now since I wanted to retain stock look and mounting points of the top filter. Just have some random 24mm fans up there for now to hold the radiator lol
> 
> I do have some ideas how to mod them in but it will take some $$ and custom work.


I think the nicest and easiest way would be to do a metal fan grill to cover the top (maybe something like the Phobya 480mm grill ) and glue some thin magnetic stripes on the top. That way you have an easily removable grill while still being able to fit stuff all the way up to the edge of the top cover









I'm sure you have a better idea though


----------



## Sorphius

HYPE!!!


----------



## Jugurnot

Just finished downsizing my rig tonight. Enthoo Pro to Evolv ITX. It was a squeeze for sure, but now all I need is a 1TB SSD to replace my Steam HDD that didn't make it in.


----------



## Sorphius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jugurnot*
> 
> Just finished downsizing my rig tonight. Enthoo Pro to Evolv ITX. It was a squeeze for sure, but now all I need is a 1TB SSD to replace my Steam HDD that didn't make it in.


Sorry for going off-topic... but how do those Aerocool DS fans work on your radiator? I like the look, but I've read that they have poor static pressure...


----------



## Phantatsy

Could someone do me a huge favor and post pics of the front panel (top) usb for the Enthoo Primo? Not the ports, but the inside part of it.


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *owcraftsman*
> 
> I've seen the post annoying in many more ways than one. All I can say is they work well for me simple effective and integrated I love having them. Kudos to Phanteks and I hope they keep making them. It's to bad peeps can't know what they are what they are for and how to use them on there own. Figure it out or move on.
> 
> THIS IS NOT AN OPEN INVITATION FOR DISCUSSION I HAVE NOTHING ELSE TO SAY ABOUT THE FAN HUB


First rule of Phanteks case club: don't talk about the fan hub.


----------



## doyll

Okay, enough!
I started this thread for everyone with an interest in Phanteks cases and their components. This is a great group of people who have built outstanding systems and been very helpful to anyone needing assistance. Not all posts are of interest to everyone, and time to time we have to re-answer the same old questions again. Posting a complete detailed list of questions and answers in opening post usually helps very little. Most new members are not going to start at the opening post and skim through the 11,498 posts we have made so far. They just post their rigs or ask questions. It would be nice is a comprehensive guide would solve problems, but years on forums shows it doesn't.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *owcraftsman*
> 
> I've seen the post annoying in many more ways than one. All I can say is they work well for me simple effective and integrated I love having them. Kudos to Phanteks and I hope they keep making them. It's to bad peeps can't know what they are what they are for and how to use them on there own. Figure it out or move on.
> 
> THIS IS NOT AN OPEN INVITATION FOR DISCUSSION I HAVE NOTHING ELSE TO SAY ABOUT THE FAN HUB


You shouldn't have said anything. This is not your forum and it's not your decision to make.
*ANYONE HAVING ANY PROBLEMS OR QUESTIONS IS WELCOME TO ASK THEM INCLUDING QUESTIONS ABOUT THE PHANTEKS FAN HUB!*
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxdarkreap3rxx*
> 
> First rule of Phanteks case club: don't talk about the fan hub.


*FIRST RULE OF PHANTEKS CASE CLUB IS TO BE HELPFUL.*
*ANYONE HAVING ANY PROBLEMS OR QUESTIONS IS WELCOME TO ASK THEM INCLUDING QUESTIONS ABOUT THE PHANTEKS FAN HUB!*
*AND IF YOU DON'T LIKE IT, POST SOMEWHERE ELSE.*
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Faster_is_better*
> 
> Nobody mentioned the Phanteks hub because it has clogged up this thread with so many problems


*SAME APPLIES TO YOU.*

Just because some have no problems with the Phanteks fan hub while many others do is no reason to be rude and unhelpful. "[Official] Case PHANTEKS Case Club" is here for everyone interested in Phanteks cases. I'm sure I speak for many of us on this subject. While people having problems with Phanteks fan hubs is fairly common, I"m seeing way too many post complaining about people asking for help with them. Anyone who finds these posts a problem can move on. Nobody is forcing you to read them .. or to even be here. You are here because you like it here, so don't start putting down others who are having problems .. any problems .. are not welcome here.
If you don't like to see certain posts, don't read them.
If that is too much to ask, go somewhere else!


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxdarkreap3rxx*
> 
> First rule of Phanteks case club: don't talk about the fan hub.


I think the fan hub is brilliant in certain scenarios. It is simply misunderstood - mainly due to a name that makes people assume it is something that it isn't. I'm more than happy to talk about it, and to help those that are confused by the convoluted manner it is presented in.

That said.....I do think there should be a separate thread on it that can be referenced when anyone asks, rather than repeating the same things over and over and over.....


----------



## Sorphius

Fine. As someone who recently acquired (arrived at my house yesterday) an Enthoo Primo, is planning to do a build in it during the next month or so, and is planning to use the fan hub (actually two of them) to control my 16 radiator fans, I'll step into the minefield.

What's the problem with the fan hub? Is it buggy? Are the connectors loose? Is it just a pain to work with? I don't mind ordering a separate fan controller or two, but I'd like to know now if that's something I'll need to do, because I don't want to be surprised by anything once I get into the middle of my build since the closest *real* computer shop is about 4-1/2 hours from my house and I'd have to order off Amazon or Newegg.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sorphius*
> 
> Fine. As someone who recently acquired (arrived at my house yesterday) an Enthoo Primo, is planning to do a build in it during the next month or so, and is planning to use the fan hub (actually two of them) to control my 16 radiator fans, I'll step into the minefield.
> 
> What's the problem with the fan hub? Is it buggy? Are the connectors loose? Is it just a pain to work with? I don't mind ordering a separate fan controller or two, but I'd like to know now if that's something I'll need to do, because I don't want to be surprised by anything once I get into the middle of my build since the closest *real* computer shop is about 4-1/2 hours from my house and I'd have to order off Amazon or Newegg.


The "problem" is that it is called a "PWM Hub", and that is misleading. It is a hub for 3-pin fans which is controlled by a PWM signal.

I actually was doing exactly what you are intending to do when I had my Primo (I am down to six fans on one hub in my EVOLV ATX now), and it worked flawlessly. One of the things that is a necessity is "training" your PWM source - in other words, having it actually know the physical capabilities of the hub. On most ASUS boards, this can be done in BIOS, and with FanXpert/Thermal Radar, I have also done it in BIOS on MSI boards. Prior to running fan setup, the curve was a really tight "all or nothing" type of ordeal - but that typically goes for any PWM controlled hub.

Once it's set up, it works like a charm.


----------



## Sorphius

Ahh, very nice to know! Just for my own clarification since I'm at work and can't get to the case/hub atm... will the hub accept 4-pin PWN fans? Or does it have the annoying 3-pin connectors that have the plastic shroud around them and won't let you plug in a 4-pin fan?


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sorphius*
> 
> Fine. As someone who recently acquired (arrived at my house yesterday) an Enthoo Primo, is planning to do a build in it during the next month or so, and is planning to use the fan hub (actually two of them) to control my 16 radiator fans, I'll step into the minefield.
> 
> What's the problem with the fan hub? Is it buggy? Are the connectors loose? Is it just a pain to work with? I don't mind ordering a separate fan controller or two, but I'd like to know now if that's something I'll need to do, because I don't want to be surprised by anything once I get into the middle of my build since the closest *real* computer shop is about 4-1/2 hours from my house and I'd have to order off Amazon or Newegg.


No real problem really, it's more that people tend to misunderstand actually what it is. The Phanteks PWM controlled fan hub is a great piece of hardware in my eyes since it lets me run my 3pin volt fans on a PWM signal. Now this is exactly what it is, it's not a PWM splitter nor a regular 3pin fan hub. It lets you hook up your 3pin volt fans to it and then run a separate cable from it to your mobo (or other PWM controller) so that the hub can decide the voltage for the fans based on the PWM signal it receives. It also has a sperate power connector so that the power will be drawn directly from the PSU and not from a puny fan connector on the mobo.

Many misinterpret this though, which has lead to quite a bit of confusion. That said, the PWM controlled fan hub is an important part in these cases and even though the question repeats itself somewhat it is still valid questions









Edit: it will also accept 4 pin fans since the pins does not have a "shroud"


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sorphius*
> 
> Fine. As someone who recently acquired (arrived at my house yesterday) an Enthoo Primo, is planning to do a build in it during the next month or so, and is planning to use the fan hub (actually two of them) to control my 16 radiator fans, I'll step into the minefield.
> 
> What's the problem with the fan hub? Is it buggy? Are the connectors loose? Is it just a pain to work with? I don't mind ordering a separate fan controller or two, but I'd like to know now if that's something I'll need to do, because I don't want to be surprised by anything once I get into the middle of my build since the closest *real* computer shop is about 4-1/2 hours from my house and I'd have to order off Amazon or Newegg.


As already stated. There are two basic problems;
One problem is people not understand that it is a PWM controlled variable voltage fan hub for 3-pin variable voltage fans.
Other is the hub has to have a real PWM signal on pin-4 .. the PWM pin. This leads to many problems
People thinking all 4-pin fan headers are PWM
People thinking all 4-pin fan headers labeled as PWM have PWM signal on pin-4.
Manufacturers saying headers have PWM control when they are only variable voltage controlled or not controlled at all
Manufacturers saying headers have PWM control when they are really supplying PWM power .. pin-2 is pulsed 12v power to fan and pin for is not PWM signal.
Once people understand this and figure out if they actually have a PWM signal source on a 4-pin header the problems tend to disappear.

If someone will write up a good Phanteks PWM controlled hub tutorial and post it, I will put a link to it in opening post. It can be posted right here in forum with link in opening post bringing people directly to it. I would write one up but at the moment I'm doing a 6700k build and am up to my armpits with fans & coolers to test. I would gladly read and edit a tutorial if someone would like .. or post up what you think is about right and we can all add our 2-cents worth. I've written plenty of them and still often have to go back and re-word / change things because of how some read and interpret them.


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> I think the fan hub is brilliant in certain scenarios. It is simply misunderstood - mainly due to a name that makes people assume it is something that it isn't. I'm more than happy to talk about it, and to help those that are confused by the convoluted manner it is presented in.
> 
> That said.....I do think there should be a separate thread on it that can be referenced when anyone asks, rather than repeating the same things over and over and over.....


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> *FIRST RULE OF PHANTEKS CASE CLUB IS TO BE HELPFUL.*
> *ANYONE HAVING ANY PROBLEMS OR QUESTIONS IS WELCOME TO ASK THEM INCLUDING QUESTIONS ABOUT THE PHANTEKS FAN HUB!*
> *AND IF YOU DON'T LIKE IT, POST SOMEWHERE ELSE.*


Of course nobody appreciates my amazing joke/reference


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxdarkreap3rxx*
> 
> Of course nobody appreciates my amazing joke/reference


Actually....I did. It was @doyll Durden who didn't.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxdarkreap3rxx*
> 
> Of course nobody appreciates my amazing joke/reference











I'll put a fiver to win on .. never mind.

You just got lumped in. Not to mention it's often hard to tell who's joking and who isn't .. and I would rather everyone errorred on the helpful friendly side rather than have some poor newbie not ask questions because of how they might have interpreted remarks posted in forum.


----------



## kilo7echo

Just upgraded my cooler on the Luxe from the Corsair gtx hg100i to the EKWB 240 predator. Saw a 10 degree temp drop with 20 on load. Hated the pump noise on the Corsair unit and this one is so much quieter.


----------



## Jugurnot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sorphius*
> 
> Sorry for going off-topic... but how do those Aerocool DS fans work on your radiator? I like the look, but I've read that they have poor static pressure...


Ill start off by saying. I DO NOT recommend those fans. Not because the don't perform well (when they work), but because I had 6/10 fail on me, different colors and 120mm as well as 140mm versions.

But they work well on rads with a low fpi. In my previous loop, using ek vardars in place of these made 0 difference in temps. However your millage may differ.


----------



## warcaholic

Just wanted to share my Evolv ATX build. Still not complete though, had this for a couple of months now and this case is AWESOME!!


----------



## sav4

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kilo7echo*
> 
> Just upgraded my cooler on the Luxe from the Corsair gtx hg100i to the EKWB 240 predator. Saw a 10 degree temp drop with 20 on load. Hated the pump noise on the Corsair unit and this one is so much quieter.


So the predator performs good eh
Nice build


----------



## owcraftsman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Okay, enough!
> I started this thread for everyone with an interest in Phanteks cases and their components. This is a great group of people who have built outstanding systems and been very helpful to anyone needing assistance. Not all posts are of interest to everyone, and time to time we have to re-answer the same old questions again. Posting a complete detailed list of questions and answers in opening post usually helps very little. Most new members are not going to start at the opening post and skim through the 11,498 posts we have made so far. They just post their rigs or ask questions. It would be nice is a comprehensive guide would solve problems, but years on forums shows it doesn't.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *owcraftsman*
> 
> I've seen the post annoying in many more ways than one. All I can say is they work well for me simple effective and integrated I love having them. Kudos to Phanteks and I hope they keep making them. It's to bad peeps can't know what they are what they are for and how to use them on there own. Figure it out or move on.
> 
> THIS IS NOT AN OPEN INVITATION FOR DISCUSSION I HAVE NOTHING ELSE TO SAY ABOUT THE FAN HUB
> 
> 
> 
> You shouldn't have said anything. This is not your forum and it's not your decision to make.
> *ANYONE HAVING ANY PROBLEMS OR QUESTIONS IS WELCOME TO ASK THEM INCLUDING QUESTIONS ABOUT THE PHANTEKS FAN HUB!*
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *xxdarkreap3rxx*
> 
> First rule of Phanteks case club: don't talk about the fan hub.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> *FIRST RULE OF PHANTEKS CASE CLUB IS TO BE HELPFUL.*
> *ANYONE HAVING ANY PROBLEMS OR QUESTIONS IS WELCOME TO ASK THEM INCLUDING QUESTIONS ABOUT THE PHANTEKS FAN HUB!*
> *AND IF YOU DON'T LIKE IT, POST SOMEWHERE ELSE.*
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Faster_is_better*
> 
> Nobody mentioned the Phanteks hub because it has clogged up this thread with so many problems
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> *SAME APPLIES TO YOU.*
> 
> Just because some have no problems with the Phanteks fan hub while many others do is no reason to be rude and unhelpful. "[Official] Case PHANTEKS Case Club" is here for everyone interested in Phanteks cases. I'm sure I speak for many of us on this subject. While people having problems with Phanteks fan hubs is fairly common, I"m seeing way too many post complaining about people asking for help with them. Anyone who finds these posts a problem can move on. Nobody is forcing you to read them .. or to even be here. You are here because you like it here, so don't start putting down others who are having problems .. any problems .. are not welcome here.
> If you don't like to see certain posts, don't read them.
> If that is too much to ask, go somewhere else!
Click to expand...

Don't get your panties in a wad. I make decisions for myself by myself. I was clearly speaking for myself not your thread. Your yelling is completely uncalled for power trip. Your efforts would be better spent organizing this completely cluttered thread than chastising people who have done nothing but try to be as helpful as they can be in it. If I wasn't interested in what everyone shares here I would never come back because of your attitude. This is not the first time you blew a nut for next to nothing. If you had respect for people and this thread you would PM your thoughts instead of ranting like a child and forcing it's subscribers to read it. That's what I would normally do but hey you get what you give. You are the one who had to have all Phanteks cases under one thread and this mess is yours. Your contributions here are more than admirable but I honestly think you should turn the thread over to someone who can manage it without bashing people and willing to take the time to clean it up.


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *warcaholic*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just wanted to share my Evolv ATX build. Still not complete though, had this for a couple of months now and this case is AWESOME!!


nice. what are your temps like? this case sure is good looking. another build in the Evovl ATX:


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *owcraftsman*
> 
> Don't get your panties in a wad. I make decisions for myself by myself. I was clearly speaking for myself not your thread. Your yelling is completely uncalled for power trip. Your efforts would be better spent organizing this completely cluttered thread than chastising people who have done nothing but try to be as helpful as they can be in it. If I wasn't interested in what everyone shares here I would never come back because of your attitude. This is not the first time you blew a nut for next to nothing. If you had respect for people and this thread you would PM your thoughts instead of ranting like a child and forcing it's subscribers to read it. That's what I would normally do but hey you get what you give. You are the one who had to have all Phanteks cases under one thread and this mess is yours. Your contributions here are more than admirable but I honestly think you should turn the thread over to someone who can manage it without bashing people and willing to take the time to clean it up.


You tell members to "Figure it out or move on."
Well, it's time you figure out that kind of statement is not acceptable here.
If you don't like open forum confrontation about things, don't post that kind of statement.
Seems you need to practice what you are preaching mate.
And nobody is "forced to read" anything posted by anyone here.
If you don't like it, don't read it ..Nobody is "forcing you to post or read this thread. Why not start a thread, then try managing and cleaning it up yourself?

You obviously have little knowledge of how forums and threads function. Only the administrators and sometimes moderators can edit threads. To "clean it up" would that many people many hours. And that is after hours of trying to determine what should and what should not be removed.

If you don't like the way we are here, move on to some other thread.


----------



## jdmR

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PureBlackFire*
> 
> nice. what are your temps like? this case sure is good looking. another build in the Evovl ATX:


very nice! what are your temps like with the slim radiators? also how tall is your reservoir? seeing all these evolv atxs is making me even more impatient for my own


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jdmR*
> 
> very nice! what are your temps like with the slim radiators? also how tall is your reservoir? seeing all these evolv atxs is making me even more impatient for my own


this isn't my build.


----------



## Rahldrac

Woho! Getting my primo today! ?


----------



## jdmR

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PureBlackFire*
> 
> this isn't my build.


Apologies, found his water cooling specs from youtube

Watercooling loop:
Rads: Alphacool NexXxos ST30 280mm & 360mm
CPU Block: EK Supremacy Evo Nickel/Plexi
GPU Block: 2x EK FC980 GTX WF3 & Backplate
Pump/Res: XSPC D5 Photon 270
Fittings: Monsoon free centre hardline black
Tubing: Monsoon acrylic 16mm tubing
Fans: 2x Noctua NF-P14s redux & 3x Noctua NF-S12b redux

For those with the Evolv ATX, he had to cut into the top support to create a hole for his fill port for this size reservoir


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

EKWB X3 400 in my Enthoo Primo


----------



## warcaholic

I have 5820k oced to 4.2 on this rig and I get avg 60-65c on 100% load and between 29-35 on idle.. I could go further with the OC easy but don't really like it getting too hot.. I'll do that when I change to custom loop or even ekwb predator. Waiting for some review on the 360 version of the predator to see if it's worth or just get 240 hehe...


----------



## warcaholic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PureBlackFire*
> 
> nice. what are your temps like? this case sure is good looking. another build in the Evovl ATX:


I have 5820k oced to 4.2 on this rig and I get avg 60-65c on 100% load and between 29-35 on idle.. I could go further with the OC easy but don't really like it getting too hot.. I'll do that when I change to custom loop or even ekwb predator. Waiting for some review on the 360 version of the predator to see if it's worth or just get 240 hehe...


----------



## seithan

Hello,

I came across an article where they measure temperatures on both CPU and GPU with HDD cage on and off and the temperature difference is 1c to 2c maximum pro-nocage. Is it true? The difference is that small?


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seithan*
> 
> Hello,
> 
> I came across an article where they measure temperatures on both CPU and GPU with HDD cage on and off and the temperature difference is 1c to 2c maximum pro-nocage. Is it true? The difference is that small?


Maybe

All depends on what the system is.


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seithan*
> 
> Hello,
> 
> I came across an article where they measure temperatures on both CPU and GPU with HDD cage on and off and the temperature difference is 1c to 2c maximum pro-nocage. Is it true? The difference is that small?


To many factors to say really, if you set up fans in a case properly then the removal of the HDD cage should not affect temps much. It's all bout knowing wether or not the CPU cooler was "air starved" before you remove the cage. Aso variables such as CPU cooler, CPU in use, and fan setup will make any of this dificult to actually say yes or no.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> To many factors to say really, if you set up fans in a case properly then the removal of the HDD cage should not affect temps much. It's all bout knowing wether or not the CPU cooler was "air starved" before you remove the cage. Aso variables such as CPU cooler, CPU in use, and fan setup will make any of this dificult to actually say yes or no.


"Set up fans in a case properly" for case is different for case with HDD cage/s than with no HDD cage/s.


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> "Set up fans in a case properly" for case is different for case with HDD cage/s than with no HDD cage/s.


True, but without knowing the review in question and the test methodology in use it's virtually impossible to give a straight answer.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> True, but without knowing the review in question and the test methodology in use it's virtually impossible to give a straight answer.


Exactly!
Which is why I posted the above after you said
"if you set up fans in a case properly then the removal of the HDD cage should not affect temps"

Optimum fan setup changes with the HDD cages are removed or added.


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Exactly!
> Which is why I posted the above after you said
> "if you set up fans in a case properly then the removal of the HDD cage should not affect temps"
> 
> Optimum fan setup changes with the HDD cages are removed or added.


I see, I think I missread your post there a bit (seems we are actually on the same page







).

Anyhow... It would be interesting to see how much of a difference we would see in CPU and GPU temps in a case optimized for use with HDD cages and then the same again with an optimized setup without cages. I'm really curious how much of an effect it really has wehn properly done.







I guess I could try to do it with my Nanoxia when I switch cases, but I have no idea where to start in optimizing the flow though.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> I see, I think I missread your post there a bit (seems we are actually on the same page
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ).
> 
> Anyhow... It would be interesting to see how much of a difference we would see in CPU and GPU temps in a case optimized for use with HDD cages and then the same again with an optimized setup without cages. I'm really curious how much of an effect it really has wehn properly done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I guess I could try to do it with my Nanoxia when I switch cases, but I have no idea where to start in optimizing the flow though.


Each build has it's own optimized flow. A system with optimumized airflow with HDD cages will most likely be more than needed when HDD cages are removed, so there may not be a great a difference in performance but will have a surplus of airflow. But a system optimized witout HDD cages with cages added will probably show a much greater rise in temperature because it will have lack enough airflow..
It's kinda like tuning a car's fuel mixture and timing for optimum power. If you change the exhaust system to something less restrictive we need to re-tune the fuel mixture and timing.


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Each build has it's own optimized flow. A system with optimumized airflow with HDD cages will most likely be more than needed when HDD cages are removed, so there may not be a great a difference in performance but will have a surplus of airflow. But a system optimized witout HDD cages with cages added will probably show a much greater rise in temperature because it will have lack enough airflow..
> It's kinda like tuning a car's fuel mixture and timing for optimum power. If you change the exhaust system to something less restrictive we need to re-tune the fuel mixture and timing.


Seems to make sense, at any rate I often seem to think that most PCs won't benefit much from removing HDD cages simply becasue the case is designed to keep them in use. That said, things do change a bit when a case is either a compromise or have been designed to run with them removed or even worse, when a case is simply poorly designed... I have no idea why, but I always get so surprised to see people's PCs drop significantly in temperatures when changing from an older miditower to a newer one. I don't know, but I think I siomply don't put to much credit in case design it seems (I tend to think it's more about the fan placement and the fans in use than the case, but I have been proven wrong several times on that).


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

My gentle typhoon AP60 fans were scraping the bottom of my Enthoo Primo. Thought about buying gaskets but got some pliers and tried pulling on the metal mesh (towards the middle of each fan). Seemed to help get a bit more clearance as the scraping noise went away


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> Seems to make sense, at any rate I often seem to think that most PCs won't benefit much from removing HDD cages simply becasue the case is designed to keep them in use. That said, things do change a bit when a case is either a compromise or have been designed to run with them removed or even worse, when a case is simply poorly designed... I have no idea why, but I always get so surprised to see people's PCs drop significantly in temperatures when changing from an older miditower to a newer one. I don't know, but I think I siomply don't put to much credit in case design it seems (I tend to think it's more about the fan placement and the fans in use than the case, but I have been proven wrong several times on that).


You might find some of the topics in "Ways to Better Cooling" interesting. (link in sig) 1st post is index, click on topics ofi nterest to see them.

There are few cases truly designed for airflow. The old Mac Pro and PowerMac G5 are a good examples of a cases designed for airflow. So is the 90 degree mobo rotated RV05 & FT02. I'm sure other 90 degree rotations would be available if SilverstoneTek didn't have a patent on it.









Basic case designs change very slowly. Current design started when CPU & GPU generated much less heat and used very small coolers and fans. It's evolution has been to change to bigger fans and move PSU from top to bottom and that's about it.

CPU cooler design evolved when heatpipes started being used from pancake to tower .. tower design works very well at keeping heated exhaust separate from cool intake airflow.
.
GPU coolers evolved with heatpipes, but little has been done for airflow separation of exhaust from intake case airlfow..


----------



## jdmR

I found this video on youtube for the evolv ATX guys




One of the things that has bothered me about the case is how low the radiator would be because of the sliding bracket. This guy offered a decent solution by holding the radiator higher on the frame instead of the sliding bracket using some metal strips


----------



## capitalj

Just wanted an opinion from you fine folks.

I've been using an FT02 for nearly 5 years now and I just want something new. I really want the Evolv ATX but there is still no concrete date or price for Canadians. So I'm picking between the Luxe and the Pro. The former being $20 more.

Currently I've got a single 970, two SSDs, three mechanical drives, optical drive, and an NHD15 cooler. As for extras, I do have a third SSD, a Xonar DG and a USB 3.0 bracket that's just using one of the expansion slots.

Having said all that, would you guys go with the Pro or the Luxe? I'm assuming the Luxe is worth the extra $20?

Thanks everyone.

edit - you know what, I might just wait for the Evolv.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *capitalj*
> 
> Just wanted an opinion from you fine folks.
> 
> I've been using an FT02 for nearly 5 years now and I just want something new. I really want the Evolv ATX but there is still no concrete date or price for Canadians. So I'm picking between the Luxe and the Pro. The former being $20 more.
> 
> Currently I've got a single 970, two SSDs, three mechanical drives, optical drive, and an NHD15 cooler. As for extras, I do have a third SSD, a Xonar DG and a USB 3.0 bracket that's just using one of the expansion slots.
> 
> Having said all that, would you guys go with the Pro or the Luxe? I'm assuming the Luxe is worth the extra $20?
> 
> Thanks everyone.
> 
> edit - you know what, I might just wait for the Evolv.


Luxe comes with 3x fans while Pro has 2x fans.
Both have PWM controlled fan hub.
Luxe's extra top thickness / height makes room for fans .. meaning more room between mobo and top.

The filters are designed to pull out front and back, but if the PSU filter is taped to the front bottom filter they can both be pulled out the front as one unit .. meaning PSU filter can be cleaned without needing to move the case.


----------



## michael-ocn

I'm hoping to get my gray evolv atx some time next week. Please phanteksusa send a case my way, I think it will improve the looks of my new pc greatly


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *michael-ocn*
> 
> I'm hoping to get my gray evolv atx some time next week. Please phanteksusa send a case my way, I think it will improve the looks of my new pc greatly
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I don't know, I bet you get great airflow.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rfarmer*
> 
> I don't know, I bet you get great airflow.


I have to agree here...also that post should be posted in the ghetto rigging thread.. i love it...


----------



## michael-ocn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> I have to agree here...also that post should be posted in the ghetto rigging thread.. i love it...


I have a better pic for that thread...
http://www.overclock.net/t/666445/post-your-ghetto-rigging-shenanigans/5830#post_24497936


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *michael-ocn*
> 
> I have a better pic for that thread...
> http://www.overclock.net/t/666445/post-your-ghetto-rigging-shenanigans/5830#post_24497936


Nice!
Few people use a motherboard tray with PCIe card support for trial / test builds.








I made mine from an old Lian-Li case.


----------



## michael-ocn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Nice!
> Few people use a motherboard tray with PCIe card support for trial / test builds.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I made mine from an old Lian-Li case.


Thnx, I scavenged that from my friend's old maingear made tj10 build. He dumped it at my door one day after having switched to an aio mac (he doesn't game). The pullout motherboard tray was a real nice surprise. The 850W psu came from the same place


----------



## Lutfij

I'm looking at teh Phanteks Enthoo Evolv matx version for a build. Question is; does the EK Predator 240 go along with mobo's with heatsinks?(seeing almost all of them are lower in profile compared to the X48/X58 era of chipsets.

Planning to drop a Asus X99 WS M board in one with the EK Predator 240 and expand upon it.


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutfij*
> 
> I'm looking at teh Phanteks Enthoo Evolv matx version for a build. Question is; does the EK Predator 240 go along with mobo's with heatsinks?(seeing almost all of them are lower in profile compared to the X48/X58 era of chipsets.
> 
> Planning to drop a Asus X99 WS M board in one with the EK Predator 240 and expand upon it.


The heatsinks don't tend to be a problem on boards when using a top mounted radiator, the problem that usually arises however is the hight of the ram sticks in use. That said the Predator is only a 30mm radiator so it should not pose a problem with the Evolv mATX.


----------



## Lutfij

Thanks for the prompt response brudda! I'm looking forward to snagging the Trident Z's for the WS mobo...any changes?


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutfij*
> 
> Thanks for the prompt response brudda! I'm looking forward to snagging the Trident Z's for the WS mobo...any changes?


It shouldn't, a 30mm rad would not be hanging over the mobo anyways so it should not pose a problem.

Usually when the ram sticks become a problem is when you have a thick top mounted radiator (or very little clearance above the mobo) and offset radiator mounts. The Evolv does have that but at least from the Phanteks specs, you would need a total of 68mm thick rad (with fans an all) before hanging above the motherboard. So with the 30mm thick rad that comes with the Predator and just a single pair of fans you should be in the clear with as tall ram sticks as you want.

Edit: That may change if you want to run a push/pull config though since that would give a total of 80mm thickness with standard fans.

Edit 2: I took a look around and if you are really concerned tehn you may want to check this review to see about rad clearance: http://www.hardocp.com/article/2015/07/02/phanteks_enthoo_evolv_atx_mid_tower_chassis_review/5#.VhwKZytZTIA
I don't know how tall the Trident Z is, but a Dominator stick goes under a thick rad there so I assume it should be fine with any thickness really.


----------



## Gil80

Hi everyone,

For those who are using any Phanteks case that has an option for bottom radiator.
I don't know if it was raised before, but for those who are using radiator at the bottom of the case, you must have extra clearance in order to allow for greater air flow.

I have this case from beginning of 2015 and I started to build my first custom water cooling loop, but it's only recently that I've realised that I have high water temps when comparing with room ambient temps.

Many good people here helped me, and still provide a lot of valuable information when trying to troubleshoot my water temp issues.
I used to have a delta of 13c degrees (delta temps = water temps - ambient temps) for a system that runs:
1. 420/60mm rad in P/P (top radiator)
2. 280/60mm rad in P/P (that's the bottom radiator)
3. 240/35mm rad in push (front radiator)
4. D5 pump
5. i7 3770K @ 4.7Ghz water cooled
6. 2x R9 290 OC also both water cooled

These 2 GPU's are very hard to tame when it comes to temps. So I knew it's going to be a tough battle, so that's why I decided to throw 3 radiators.
But that is not a great approach because there are many factors to consider like air flow and water flow restrictions and what not. These factors are something I'm learning now. I clearly made mistakes or just didn't realise other things to factor in when building a water loop.

Anyway, I realised that I didn't pay enough attention to the bottom rad air flow. I then decided to use two blocks of wood of about 2.5cm or 1 inch in thickness and I ran another stress test using Aida64.

Now my delta temps are 9c degrees (again, water - ambient). This is 4 degrees improvement due to less air flow restriction.
I just thought it's worth mentioning if you want to improve your PC cooling abilities or if you overlooked this fault.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gil80*
> 
> Hi everyone,
> 
> For those who are using any Phanteks case that has an option for bottom radiator.
> I don't know if it was raised before, but for those who are using radiator at the bottom of the case, you must have extra clearance in order to allow for greater air flow.
> 
> I have this case from beginning of 2015 and I started to build my first custom water cooling loop, but it's only recently that I've realised that I have high water temps when comparing with room ambient temps.
> 
> Many good people here helped me, and still provide a lot of valuable information when trying to troubleshoot my water temp issues.
> I used to have a delta of 13c degrees (delta temps = water temps - ambient temps) for a system that runs:
> 1. 420/60mm rad in P/P (top radiator)
> 2. 280/60mm rad in P/P (that's the bottom radiator)
> 3. 240/35mm rad in push (front radiator)
> 4. D5 pump
> 5. i7 3770K @ 4.7Ghz water cooled
> 6. 2x R9 290 OC also both water cooled
> 
> These 2 GPU's are very hard to tame when it comes to temps. So I knew it's going to be a tough battle, so that's why I decided to throw 3 radiators.
> But that is not a great approach because there are many factors to consider like air flow and water flow restrictions and what not. These factors are something I'm learning now. I clearly made mistakes or just didn't realise other things to factor in when building a water loop.
> 
> Anyway, I realised that I didn't pay enough attention to the bottom rad air flow. I then decided to use two blocks of wood of about 2.5cm or 1 inch in thickness and I ran another stress test using Aida64.
> 
> Now my delta temps are 9c degrees (again, water - ambient). This is 4 degrees improvement due to less air flow restriction.
> I just thought it's worth mentioning if you want to improve your PC cooling abilities or if you overlooked this fault.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Not wuite sure what you are trying to say but I'm guessing from the picture that you are concerned about a hypothetical restriction of of the bottom air intake in the Enthoo Primo?

There are several factors to consider in such a situation. The most important which from the looks of it is also the case in you instance, is to never place a case with bottom intake directly on a carpet floor. The primo is raised up a bit, so it's less of an issue than other cases, but usually a carpet restricts flow quite a bit so it's always a good idea to have some sort of hard surface to place it on. Next issue would be something along the lines of the fan filters, I am not sure how restrictive the ones in use on the Primo is but filters always restrict flow so if you have issues with flow it's a good idea to remove tehm and see if it helps. The third one would be if the case requires more air than what is readily available underneath the case, which would be the case if you have lots of high rpm fans and the like. If that is the reason for bad performance then raising the case further up should help with that like you eperienced.

Now with all that in mind I do feel that the Primo has some lack of clearance in the bottom to be honest, so it may very well be a real issue as you mentioned.


----------



## Gil80

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> Not wuite sure what you are trying to say but I'm guessing from the picture that you are concerned about a hypothetical restriction of of the bottom air intake in the Enthoo Primo?
> 
> There are several factors to consider in such a situation. The most important which from the looks of it is also the case in you instance, is to never place a case with bottom intake directly on a carpet floor. The primo is raised up a bit, so it's less of an issue than other cases, but usually a carpet restricts flow quite a bit so it's always a good idea to have some sort of hard surface to place it on. Next issue would be something along the lines of the fan filters, I am not sure how restrictive the ones in use on the Primo is but filters always restrict flow so if you have issues with flow it's a good idea to remove tehm and see if it helps. The third one would be if the case requires more air than what is readily available underneath the case, which would be the case if you have lots of high rpm fans and the like. If that is the reason for bad performance then raising the case further up should help with that like you eperienced.
> 
> Now with all that in mind I do feel that the Primo has some lack of clearance in the bottom to be honest, so it may very well be a real issue as you mentioned.


The case was never directly on the carpet. I used a large wooden surface. It's as if the case was on the floor, not a carpet. That was my benchmark for testing.
Because, like you mentioned, filters also restrict airflow, not having enough clearance will add to the airflow restriction.
I'm just saying that extra clearance, at least in my case, improved the water temps by 4 degrees which is a lot.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

thats specifically for the primo... the pro and luxe dont have this issues as the feet are higher and they are only in the vital areas..


----------



## Lutfij

Even though I took your word without any grain of salt, I thought I'd go through the Enthoo Evolv matx case review video by Hardware Canucks and the offset for the 120mm fan mounts up top are far from the motherboard:










Thanks Rainmaker91!!!


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gil80*
> 
> Hi everyone,
> 
> For those who are using any Phanteks case that has an option for bottom radiator.
> I don't know if it was raised before, but for those who are using radiator at the bottom of the case, you must have extra clearance in order to allow for greater air flow.
> 
> I have this case from beginning of 2015 and I started to build my first custom water cooling loop, but it's only recently that I've realised that I have high water temps when comparing with room ambient temps.
> 
> Many good people here helped me, and still provide a lot of valuable information when trying to troubleshoot my water temp issues.
> I used to have a delta of 13c degrees (delta temps = water temps - ambient temps) for a system that runs:
> 1. 420/60mm rad in P/P (top radiator)
> 2. 280/60mm rad in P/P (that's the bottom radiator)
> 3. 240/35mm rad in push (front radiator)
> 4. D5 pump
> 5. i7 3770K @ 4.7Ghz water cooled
> 6. 2x R9 290 OC also both water cooled
> 
> These 2 GPU's are very hard to tame when it comes to temps. So I knew it's going to be a tough battle, so that's why I decided to throw 3 radiators.
> But that is not a great approach because there are many factors to consider like air flow and water flow restrictions and what not. These factors are something I'm learning now. I clearly made mistakes or just didn't realise other things to factor in when building a water loop.
> 
> Anyway, I realised that I didn't pay enough attention to the bottom rad air flow. I then decided to use two blocks of wood of about 2.5cm or 1 inch in thickness and I ran another stress test using Aida64.
> 
> Now my delta temps are 9c degrees (again, water - ambient). This is 4 degrees improvement due to less air flow restriction.
> I just thought it's worth mentioning if you want to improve your PC cooling abilities or if you overlooked this fault.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Indeed it is an issue, and a known one. It's part of the reason some of us use something like this.




With 30mm castors on a 10mm base Primo stands 69cm tall (27.165").
 . 

And what it looks like bottom side up
 

It's a problem with most cases, including the Luxe and Pro. Airflow area is also an issue with many front vents like Primo and Luxe. There are several discussions about these in early part of this thread.


----------



## Gil80

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Indeed it is an issue, and a known one. It's part of the reason some of us use something like this.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With 30mm castors on a 10mm base Primo stands 69cm tall (27.165").
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> 
> And what it looks like bottom side up
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's a problem with most cases, including the Luxe and Pro. Airflow area is also an issue with many front vents like Primo and Luxe. There are several discussions about these in early part of this thread.


Hi doyll, where can I get these wheels and frame? or the frame was disassembled from the case to mount the wheels?

RE front fans, I removed that cover thing and only left it with the mesh.

That's my current build:


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!











and video taken 2 days ago: 



 trying to figure out how to flip top fans to intake (both p/p) without taking anything apart.


----------



## chas1723

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Gil80*
> 
> Hi everyone,
> 
> For those who are using any Phanteks case that has an option for bottom radiator.
> I don't know if it was raised before, but for those who are using radiator at the bottom of the case, you must have extra clearance in order to allow for greater air flow.
> 
> I have this case from beginning of 2015 and I started to build my first custom water cooling loop, but it's only recently that I've realised that I have high water temps when comparing with room ambient temps.
> 
> Many good people here helped me, and still provide a lot of valuable information when trying to troubleshoot my water temp issues.
> I used to have a delta of 13c degrees (delta temps = water temps - ambient temps) for a system that runs:
> 1. 420/60mm rad in P/P (top radiator)
> 2. 280/60mm rad in P/P (that's the bottom radiator)
> 3. 240/35mm rad in push (front radiator)
> 4. D5 pump
> 5. i7 3770K @ 4.7Ghz water cooled
> 6. 2x R9 290 OC also both water cooled
> 
> These 2 GPU's are very hard to tame when it comes to temps. So I knew it's going to be a tough battle, so that's why I decided to throw 3 radiators.
> But that is not a great approach because there are many factors to consider like air flow and water flow restrictions and what not. These factors are something I'm learning now. I clearly made mistakes or just didn't realise other things to factor in when building a water loop.
> 
> Anyway, I realised that I didn't pay enough attention to the bottom rad air flow. I then decided to use two blocks of wood of about 2.5cm or 1 inch in thickness and I ran another stress test using Aida64.
> 
> Now my delta temps are 9c degrees (again, water - ambient). This is 4 degrees improvement due to less air flow restriction.
> I just thought it's worth mentioning if you want to improve your PC cooling abilities or if you overlooked this fault.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Indeed it is an issue, and a known one. It's part of the reason some of us use something like this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With 30mm castors on a 10mm base Primo stands 69cm tall (27.165").
> .
> 
> And what it looks like bottom side up
> 
> 
> It's a problem with most cases, including the Luxe and Pro. Airflow area is also an issue with many front vents like Primo and Luxe. There are several discussions about these in early part of this thread.
Click to expand...

Did you make that yourself? If so, what did you make it out of?


----------



## doyll

They are hand made. Yes, I build them The frame is of void-less 7 ply 10mm Baltic birch plywood. Very stable and best plywood I know of, but hard to find. I'm trying to get more now for projects.


Sanded, ready to drill and tap caster holes. Then fill any imperfections, prime, sand, fill, sand, prime, sand, paint, sand, paint, and finally thread the caster stems into holes and pop casters on.


Base with stud installed This stud was for 40mm casters. These are the 30mm casters I use on most builds.


----------



## Gil80

This is brilliant!
I would like to buy one from you, but if you've seen my previous image, the PC is under the desk and it has 2.5cm of clearance from top fans to the desk. Not ideal for air flow.
This is after I raised the case by 2.5cm from the floor.
So having your solution, though is best, won't allow for any clearance from the desk, unless I raise the desk and chair as well


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gil80*
> 
> This is brilliant!
> I would like to buy one from you, but if you've seen my previous image, the PC is under the desk and it has 2.5cm of clearance from top fans to the desk. Not ideal for air flow.
> This is after I raised the case by 2.5cm from the floor.
> So having your solution, though is best, won't allow for any clearance from the desk, unless I raise the desk and chair as well


With 30mm casters the case raised 45mm leaving you 5mm clearance. It is also possible to mount the casters into be stock base, but it does not look as nice. Here is one with 40mm casters mounted into case with special adapters It can be done just as easily using 30mm casters.


----------



## Gil80

are they strong enough to carry the sheer amount of weight this beast has?
I can barely lift or move my case. Especially when it's filled with water and radiators + PSU and all the cables. I think it has about 20KG


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gil80*
> 
> are they strong enough to carry the sheer amount of weight this beast has?
> I can barely lift or move my case. Especially when it's filled with water and radiators + PSU and all the cables. I think it has about 20KG


It all varies on te wheels that you buy. When getting some at any store you will see that tey are rated for a specific weight. I did some research in to it when I was getting a sofa for my riny winy student "apartment" (need to be on wheels so that it can be moved out of the way when not in use), and Iended up getting some furniture wheels designed for 100kg each (supporting a total of 400kg on the twoseater in use). If you buy heels designed for office chairs and the like tey are very often ranged between 15-25kg for each wheel depending on the manufacturer, so weight should not prove an issue unless you someho manage to balance it all on 1 wheel.

As for the clearance issue... I was simply not aware, so since I am now I'll be building a raiser as well from some hardwood I have layinmg around. Thanks for mentioning it again, I would have totally missed it if not.


----------



## Gil80

Not a problem. it's a pleasure to return some help where I got plenty of help from others


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gil80*
> 
> are they strong enough to carry the sheer amount of weight this beast has?
> I can barely lift or move my case. Especially when it's filled with water and radiators + PSU and all the cables. I think it has about 20KG


The ones I use are rated 50kg dynamic load. Most all decent chair casters are rated 40-50kg. Using threaded studs into 10mm thick base is probably the weakest point .. which is why I use super good plywood. This kind of plywood was (still is) used to build airplanes and boats because of strength and flex loads.


----------



## Faster_is_better

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> Not wuite sure what you are trying to say but I'm guessing from the picture that you are concerned about a hypothetical restriction of of the bottom air intake in the Enthoo Primo?
> 
> There are several factors to consider in such a situation. The most important which from the looks of it is also the case in you instance, is to never place a case with bottom intake directly on a carpet floor. The primo is raised up a bit, so it's less of an issue than other cases, but usually a carpet restricts flow quite a bit so it's always a good idea to have some sort of hard surface to place it on. Next issue would be something along the lines of the fan filters, I am not sure how restrictive the ones in use on the Primo is but filters always restrict flow so if you have issues with flow it's a good idea to remove tehm and see if it helps. The third one would be if the case requires more air than what is readily available underneath the case, which would be the case if you have lots of high rpm fans and the like. If that is the reason for bad performance then raising the case further up should help with that like you eperienced.
> 
> *Now with all that in mind I do feel that the Primo has some lack of clearance in the bottom to be honest, so it may very well be a real issue as you mentioned*.


Absolutely agree. While there is a lot of open mesh around the bottom, Phanteks did close off the front and both sides and only left like 1/8" ? of clearance below the whole skirt for airflow. The back is open at least.

That constricted bottom and then the addition of the rest of the case panels contributed to my increase in temps since it constricted the easy access to open air for the rads. Solution was to turn fans up 5-10%









I actually have wanted to beef up the bottom with some metal strips, that would give a bit more clearance and strength.


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Faster_is_better*
> 
> Absolutely agree. While there is a lot of open mesh around the bottom, Phanteks did close off the front and both sides and only left like 1/8" ? of clearance below the whole skirt for airflow. The back is open at least.
> 
> That constricted bottom and then the addition of the rest of the case panels contributed to my increase in temps since it constricted the easy access to open air for the rads. Solution was to turn fans up 5-10%
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I actually have wanted to beef up the bottom with some metal strips, that would give a bit more clearance and strength.


Simplest solution would of course just be to swap out the feet with something a bit taller. Unfortunately due to the design of the Primo that means I'm have to get creative and cut some thick rubber to size while at my current case I made some nice ones in wood. Anyways, I'll likely have to address this issue as well, although I will actually be blowing air out of the bottom and not sucking in there due to some unfortunate circumstances (Eloops really REALLY hat being set directly up against a grill, or in this case the bottom panel).


----------



## Roxycon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutfij*
> 
> Even though I took your word without any grain of salt, I thought I'd go through the Enthoo Evolv matx case review video by Hardware Canucks and the offset for the 120mm fan mounts up top are far from the motherboard:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks Rainmaker91!!!


Have the case, and are watercooling it with ek gear. I have a coolstream PE 240 up top, and it is pretty close with the 8 pin CPU power(searching high and low for a way to make it lower in profile), you can forget p/p if you got anything other than very low profile ram but mb heatsinks should not be a biggie.

The predator will take up additional space with the res/pump thous limiting your options with additional rads, and I had to give up the panel holder thingy at the back towards the window as the pe rad is too wide.


----------



## Faster_is_better

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Faster_is_better*
> 
> Absolutely agree. While there is a lot of open mesh around the bottom, Phanteks did close off the front and both sides and only left like 1/8" ? of clearance below the whole skirt for airflow. The back is open at least.
> 
> That constricted bottom and then the addition of the rest of the case panels contributed to my increase in temps since it constricted the easy access to open air for the rads. Solution was to turn fans up 5-10%
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I actually have wanted to beef up the bottom with some metal strips, that would give a bit more clearance and strength.
> 
> 
> 
> Simplest solution would of course just be to swap out the feet with something a bit taller. Unfortunately due to the design of the Primo that means I'm have to get creative and cut some thick rubber to size while at my current case I made some nice ones in wood. Anyways, I'll likely have to address this issue as well, although I will actually be blowing air out of the bottom and not sucking in there due to some unfortunate circumstances (Eloops really REALLY hat being set directly up against a grill, or in this case the bottom panel).
Click to expand...

You could do this mod, and then intake from bottom.


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Faster_is_better*
> 
> You could do this mod, and then intake from bottom.


True, and I still might do that. Big difference is that stuff like laser cutting, CNC work and waterjet is way overpriced here so I would end up doing it all by hand (unless I can find a kind soul that does these things as a hobby in my close vicinity). So I'll have to think it over really.


----------



## capitalj

Just picked up the Luxe yesterday. Quick question about my fan layout and the PWM, where to wire, etc.

mobo / hsf: asus p8z68-v pro / nh-d14

Right now, I've got all the case fans, and one of the two heatsink fans connected to the 4-pin CPU_fan header. The second heatsink fan is connected to the cpu_fan_opt header. In my last case, both HSF were connected to both cpu_fan headers, the rest were on the other various headers.

I'm not 100% sure if the PWM cable can even reach the other 4-pin (chan_fan1) on my mobo, as it's near the IO. Should I just reconnect both heatsink fans back to cpu_fan & cpu_fan_opt, then connect the PWM to chan_fan1 (if it can reach), or just one of the other 3-pin headers. From what I understand anyway, is that the other 4-pin isn't really PWM controllable.

edit - oh yeah, I do have three Gelid Wing 14s lying around. Should I use two of them to replace the front 200? Then the third up top?


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *capitalj*
> 
> Just picked up the Luxe yesterday. Quick question about my fan layout and the PWM, where to wire, etc.
> 
> mobo / hsf: asus p8z68-v pro / nh-d14
> 
> Right now, I've got all the case fans, and one of the two heatsink fans connected to the 4-pin CPU_fan header. The second heatsink fan is connected to the cpu_fan_opt header. In my last case, both HSF were connected to both cpu_fan headers, the rest were on the other various headers.
> 
> I'm not 100% sure if the PWM cable can even reach the other 4-pin (chan_fan1) on my mobo, as it's near the IO. Should I just reconnect both heatsink fans back to cpu_fan & cpu_fan_opt, then connect the PWM to chan_fan1 (if it can reach), or just one of the other 3-pin headers. From what I understand anyway, is that the other 4-pin isn't really PWM controllable.
> 
> edit - oh yeah, I do have three Gelid Wing 14s lying around. Should I use two of them to replace the front 200? Then the third up top?


Here's what your mobo manual says



So CPU_FAN and CPU_FAN_OPT are both acceptable as they have the PWM signal whereas CHA_FAN1 is 4 pin but is actually voltage controlled.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *capitalj*
> 
> Just picked up the Luxe yesterday. Quick question about my fan layout and the PWM, where to wire, etc.
> 
> mobo / hsf: asus p8z68-v pro / nh-d14
> 
> Right now, I've got all the case fans, and one of the two heatsink fans connected to the 4-pin CPU_fan header. The second heatsink fan is connected to the cpu_fan_opt header. In my last case, both HSF were connected to both cpu_fan headers, the rest were on the other various headers.
> 
> I'm not 100% sure if the PWM cable can even reach the other 4-pin (chan_fan1) on my mobo, as it's near the IO. Should I just reconnect both heatsink fans back to cpu_fan & cpu_fan_opt, then connect the PWM to chan_fan1 (if it can reach), or just one of the other 3-pin headers. From what I understand anyway, is that the other 4-pin isn't really PWM controllable.
> 
> edit - oh yeah, I do have three Gelid Wing 14s lying around. Should I use two of them to replace the front 200? Then the third up top?


What xxdarkreap3rxx said.

You do realize the Phanteks PWM hub is a PWM _controlled_ 3-pin variable voltage fan hub, not a PWM hub and the case fans are 3-pin variable voltage fans?.

The Phanteks PWM _controlled_ fan hub uses PWM signal to vary the 12V power supplied to it to vary the voltage going to the fans plugged into it.


----------



## zednor

Guys i bought an Enthoo Pro.As i checked some posts its a PWM controlled 3-pin hub.I got an ASUS X99-A and on manual it says all fan headers are supposed to support PWM and Voltage controlled.The hub is gonna work fine if i connect it on a normal fan 4-pin header as long as i change it as PWM on BIOS right?


----------



## BarneyRubble

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zednor*
> 
> Guys i bought an Enthoo Pro.As i checked some posts its a PWM controlled 3-pin hub.I got an ASUS X99-A and on manual it says all fan headers are supposed to support PWM and Voltage controlled.The hub is gonna work fine if i connect it on a normal fan 4-pin header as long as i change it as PWM on BIOS right?


Yes, it will work fine.


----------



## FastRedPonyCar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zednor*
> 
> Guys i bought an Enthoo Pro.As i checked some posts its a PWM controlled 3-pin hub.I got an ASUS X99-A and on manual it says all fan headers are supposed to support PWM and Voltage controlled.The hub is gonna work fine if i connect it on a normal fan 4-pin header as long as i change it as PWM on BIOS right?


Yep. your UEFI (bios) will have all your fan speed profiles/controls/etc in the hardware/temp monitoring menu and will allow you to custom tailor how you want them to behave.

You most likely also have PWM controls for a primary motherboard 4 pin fan header as well. My ASRock board has 2 PWM headers, one for the CPU and one for the main motherboard fan header. I used this to my advantage since I'm running 2 radiators, each with 6 fans. The CPU fan header runs to one Phanteks PWM hub where all the fans for one of the radiators are hooked up to. This one I set in the UEFI to only spin up to 75% fan speed once the CPU goes over 60*C

The other one however, I installed a 2nd Phanteks PWM hub and ran all of the fans on the 2nd radiator to it and set that to run at around 900 rpms at all times unless the CPU hits 70*C where they would then spin up to 50% of their max speed.

With them set this way, the system is incredibly quiet even when the CPU is under full load doing video rendering/encoding. Temps hover in the low 70's *C during stress testing and the loudest thing in the system at idle is usually the pump.


----------



## doyll

What FastRedPonyCar said.








Haven't used a new Asus board in awhile, but they used to have software for setting heat to PWM% curve. Make it easier than having to use Bios.


----------



## JohnBell5713

Hi. I'm planning a build with Gigabyte (EATX) z170x Gaming g1 and EK Predator AOI CPU Cooler provisionally in an Enthoo Primo. Given the EATX form factor and the EK unit being 68mm thick including fans I'm concerned whether top mounting the rad assembly would lead to clearance issues. Anyone able to give a definitive answer on this?


----------



## Tweetbix

Regarding air flow for the bottom of the Primo, what would be peoples suggestions for adding height while on carpet.
As much as I'd like castors, it wouldn't work well.


----------



## schoolofmonkey

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JohnBell5713*
> 
> Hi. I'm planning a build with Gigabyte (EATX) z170x Gaming g1 and EK Predator AOI CPU Cooler provisionally in an Enthoo Primo. Given the EATX form factor and the EK unit being 68mm thick including fans I'm concerned whether top mounting the rad assembly would lead to clearance issues. Anyone able to give a definitive answer on this?


There's 80mm clearance, but also remember there's a top bay fans can be mounted in which gives you a total of 82mm.
Just measured mine.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tweetbix*
> 
> Regarding air flow for the bottom of the Primo, what would be peoples suggestions for adding height while on carpet.
> As much as I'd like castors, it wouldn't work well.


Why won't casters work well? I've used caster bases on carpet more than any other way.
You could make a "sled" the size of case bottom with blocks where each of the feet on case are.


----------



## Sorphius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tweetbix*
> 
> Regarding air flow for the bottom of the Primo, what would be peoples suggestions for adding height while on carpet.
> As much as I'd like castors, it wouldn't work well.


Doyll's sled would work perfectly, or you could just put it on blocks. Both would get the job done.


----------



## Rahldrac

So getting close to putting my Primo together and I still have not found out how I want to fix the airflow.
The top will be a 480 radiator, bottom will be a 480 radiator and "backside/sidepanel" will be a 240 radiator.

Other than That I will have 2x140 in the front, and 1x140 in the back.

The obvious solution is to have all radiators as intake, and all "fans only" as exhaust. The problem is design. Fans look so much better when they are are setup as exhaust, Which is why I am thinking about having all the "fans only" as intakes and the radiators as exhaust. But this might hurt temps considerably. And the rear fan would look bad.

Thoughts?


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rahldrac*
> 
> So getting close to putting my Primo together and I still have not found out how I want to fix the airflow.
> The top will be a 480 radiator, bottom will be a 480 radiator and "backside/sidepanel" will be a 240 radiator.
> 
> Other than That I will have 2x140 in the front, and 1x140 in the back.
> 
> The obvious solution is to have all radiators as intake, and all "fans only" as exhaust. The problem is design. Fans look so much better when they are are setup as exhaust, Which is why I am thinking about having all the "fans only" as intakes and the radiators as exhaust. But this might hurt temps considerably. And the rear fan would look bad.
> 
> Thoughts?


Most important thing really would be to ensure you don't have conflicting fans in your setup. What I mean by that is that you don't want to have one intake fan right next to an exhaust fan and so on. Personally I would run intake in front and bottom with exhaust in the top and rear just to create a natural flow of things, but you may be able to tweak that setup a bit to improve temps, but that would at the very least be my basic setup.


----------



## Faster_is_better

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rahldrac*
> 
> So getting close to putting my Primo together and I still have not found out how I want to fix the airflow.
> The top will be a 480 radiator, bottom will be a 480 radiator and "backside/sidepanel" will be a 240 radiator.
> 
> Other than That I will have 2x140 in the front, and 1x140 in the back.
> 
> The obvious solution is to have all radiators as intake, and all "fans only" as exhaust. The problem is design. Fans look so much better when they are are setup as exhaust, Which is why I am thinking about having all the "fans only" as intakes and the radiators as exhaust. But this might hurt temps considerably. And the rear fan would look bad.
> 
> Thoughts?


@maskymus did some fairly extensive testing on his Primo setup with 2x 480s and various intake/exhaust setups. He ended up with bottom rad intake, and top rad exhaust, he said that the main reasoning was that the top mesh filter on the Primo is very restrictive so that setup worked better for him.

I'm also using the same setup and it works fine. It surely effects temps somewhat but not majorly. With the amount of rad you will have it shouldn't really matter that much.


----------



## maskymus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rahldrac*
> 
> So getting close to putting my Primo together and I still have not found out how I want to fix the airflow.
> The top will be a 480 radiator, bottom will be a 480 radiator and "backside/sidepanel" will be a 240 radiator.
> 
> Other than That I will have 2x140 in the front, and 1x140 in the back.
> 
> The obvious solution is to have all radiators as intake, and all "fans only" as exhaust. The problem is design. Fans look so much better when they are are setup as exhaust, Which is why I am thinking about having all the "fans only" as intakes and the radiators as exhaust. But this might hurt temps considerably. And the rear fan would look bad.
> 
> Thoughts?


1) If you use 480 rad in bottom then there is no need in 2x140 in the front - one is enough to have the airflow movement.
2) I tested all positions, but I've made some case mods, so can't say that you'll get the same experience:
a) all rads exhaust - case fans intake: too much dust inside the case unless you make dust filters for all the back of the case. temps average
b) all rads intake - case fans exhaust: too much heat inside the case when side panel is closed. temps average, dust filtration very good. If you want to use the case without window side panel, then it's ok.
c) best solution: bottom intake, top exhaust without top mesh, case fans intake. You'll need rear fan dust filter. Best temps all around for MB (CPU) VRM, GPU and CPU.
d) (currently using) bottom intake, top exhaust without top mesh, front intake, rear exhaust: temps 1-2 degree higher than option c) however you don't need a filter on the rear fan.
e) bottom intake, top exhaust with top mesh installed, case fans don't matter: too much heat is trapped inside the case especially on the backside of MB. abnormal temps on MB PCH and on MB temps (maybe it's due to Demciflex filters which have finer mesh than original filters, which I placed on the top or that I was gaming Witcher3 for 8hours).


----------



## BarneyRubble

This is my experience... My Primo set up has only one exhaust fan. I have removed the HDD cages.

Intake
Front - 2x140
Side - 2x140
Top - 360 rad (6 fans, push/pull)
Bottom - 480 rad (8 fans, push pull)

Exhaust
Rear - 1x140

I have a 5960x and 2 980 Ti Hydro Coppers. Even after 30 minutes of stress testing, the fans are only running approximately 60%. I have 3 water sensors and 5 case sensors. The temps in the case never go over 32c. My case is cool and quiet. The rear of the Primo is nothing but holes, I don't think exhaust is an issue. I knew I could rearrange the fans (pain in the arse), but I went on the advice of someone who I trusted and installed it the fans/rads just like they are now. I was pleasantly surprised at the results.


----------



## Faster_is_better

Thanks maskymus, you did some great work with this case








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BarneyRubble*
> 
> This is my experience... My Primo set up has only one exhaust fan. I have removed the HDD cages.
> 
> Intake
> Front - 2x140
> Side - 2x140
> Top - 360 rad (6 fans, push/pull)
> Bottom - 480 rad (8 fans, push pull)
> 
> Exhaust
> Rear - 1x140
> 
> I have a 5960x and 2 980 Ti Hydro Coppers. Even after 30 minutes of stress testing, the fans are only running approximately 60%. I have 3 water sensors and 5 case sensors. The temps in the case never go over 32c. My case is cool and quiet. *The rear of the Primo is nothing but holes, I don't think exhaust is an issue.* I knew I could rearrange the fans (pain in the arse), but I went on the advice of someone who I trusted and installed it the fans/rads just like they are now. I was pleasantly surprised at the results.


I just have 1x 140 in the front, intake, and didn't even bother with an exhaust or any fan in back of the case. I figure that any positive pressure will easily escape from the back of the case since as you said it is very perforated.


----------



## doyll

Yeah, I run 2x front and 2x bottom intakes at low speed with no exhaust fans. The F140SP fans easily flow plenty of air without push/pull of intake and exhaust fans.


----------



## Malik




----------



## michael-ocn

Finally got my gray evolv atx yesterday and have put it all together. Such a nice case, fit-n-finish is way up there. I got a question about radiator mounting below, but a couple pics first...



I have a top mounted 140x280 rad so there are open spaces in the top mounting bracket. Queston is, what's the best way to close off those open spaces? Cardboard and zipties could work, but if there's a cleaner neater answer, that'd be even better.


I might leave the gap towards the front of open since I think only cool air just brought in from the 2x 140s will make it up there, but I defintely want to close off that back gap and will probably experiment with closing or narrowing the front too (the front gap is wider). Air is drawn in thru the rad.

I think I'm getting some re-circulation based on watching temps under heavy cpu+gpu load for a long'ish duraton. (the gpu has an acx2 cooler). Pop the front panel off after an hour of heavy load and temps tha take a while to creep up drop back down pretty quickly. My plan is to close off the back gap and narrow the front so only the very front can be drawn up top to feed the rad intake and be blown back down.


Haha... should i rotate that fan to get the label straight


----------



## Phantatsy

Does anyone have both an Elvolv ATX and a Primo? I'm curious as to the size difference.


----------



## michael-ocn

Cross posting from my build log about evolv atx airflow.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *michael-ocn*
> 
> The rear gap closed off so warm air cannot be recirculated up thru there.
> 
> 
> The front gap narrowed to the very front most inch or two allowing only cool air there to be drawn up.
> 
> 
> I've noticed that hardly any air flows into the narrow vents on the top panel of the case, but according to a piece of tissue paper, a lot of air gets drawn thru the vertical slots at the very top on the back of the case. That makes a lot of sense when you have the top mounted rad setup as exhaust, but not so much for intake. I have to experiment with sealing that off to avoid drawing in the warm exhaust being pushed out there thru all the open mesh below. This'll matter more once I place the case nearer a wall.
> 
> 
> I also noticed the front panel really is very restrictive, too restrictive for overclocking. With the front panel snapped in place, not much air flows out thru the open pci slots at the back. With it pulled off, a piece of tissue paper held back there is flapping in the wind pretty good. Modding that front panel would definitely be a good idea for my build. But geez... cutting out a pattern in a 3mm piece of aluminum is kinda outside my skillset and not so easy for me to do. Maybe I'll bring it to a machine shop (techshop) someday...
> 
> But in the meantime, this workaround is effective... just don't snap it fully in place at the bottom pegs, prop it open a little down there instead.


----------



## Ironsmack

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BarneyRubble*
> 
> This is my experience... My Primo set up has only one exhaust fan. I have removed the HDD cages.
> 
> Intake
> Front - 2x140
> Side - 2x140
> Top - 360 rad (6 fans, push/pull)
> Bottom - 480 rad (8 fans, push pull)
> 
> Exhaust
> Rear - 1x140
> 
> I have a 5960x and 2 980 Ti Hydro Coppers. Even after 30 minutes of stress testing, the fans are only running approximately 60%. I have 3 water sensors and 5 case sensors. The temps in the case never go over 32c. My case is cool and quiet. The rear of the Primo is nothing but holes, I don't think exhaust is an issue. I knew I could rearrange the fans (pain in the arse), but I went on the advice of someone who I trusted and installed it the fans/rads just like they are now. I was pleasantly surprised at the results.


Exactly this.

People still forget that you have ventilation holes in the back of the case + you have fans to push the air out.

Air will go wherever you direct it to go.


----------



## Chickensoup23

I need you guys. I've turned the internet upside down to try and find a picture of an Enthoo Pro with two front 120/140 fans (instead of the 200mm), see how it looks, and I can't find one. From what I understand, Phanteks went major derp with those dual fans as they dont align with the grill. The top one sort of sticks out and only shows like 3/4 of it and the bottom 120mm one is like 3 inches from the bottom. It bothers me for some reason that they're not centered.

If anybody with a picture could send it my way or post it, I'm getting one today if it looks better than what I imagine it does! I can only find side shots and what not. Thanks a bunch guys,

~Chicken


----------



## neonraver

I bought the Enthoo Pro M last week and I love it. I'd been using the Cooler Master HAF 922 for a while but the industrial look was getting on my girlfriend's nerves as the PC sits in the living room so I thought it was time for a change. I did loads of research and decided on the Pro M as I didn't want a huge case but I wanted one that looked good, had good airflow, a window, and space for an optical drive.

I moved my system over without a hitch last week and today I completed the finishing touches after my H100I GTX arrived in the post. The LEDs are new too and they are a bit bright but I think it looks alright.

I love the look of the case and it's a huge improvement over the HAF 922; it just feels so much more premium and sleek. The space inside the case is great and it fits everything I have. It was a bit annoying to have to buy an HDD bracket for my third HDD but it looks good in there and is nice and sturdy. The biggest perk of the case is the space for all my PSU cables as i'm still stuck using a non-modular PSU but with the way it looks I won't need to upgrade for a while now!

I've got three 120mm fans in the front as intake and the 140mm that came with the case and the H100i GTX as exhaust and it is keeping the case nice and cool. The cable management is great for a cheap case and I think i've done a pretty good job.

Sorry for the poor pictures; I don't have a great camera and am no photographer but they give a fair idea of what the case looks like!


----------



## rfarmer

Looks good neonraver.


----------



## Phantatsy

Just got a package in the mail today...


----------



## CoolGTX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tweetbix*
> 
> Regarding air flow for the bottom of the Primo, what would be peoples suggestions for adding height while on carpet.
> As much as I'd like castors, it wouldn't work well.


I use two old Dell laptop full docking stations, the ones with the monitor stand built-in.

They are very sturdy; built to hold a CRT.

They are really cheap at stores that handel used PC parts - because no one wants them any more.


----------



## Rahldrac

So I am planing my Primo build right now. I want to try to build two loops, one for the GPUs and one for CPU. For that I have 2 Revo D5.
I am also planning an entire glass window.

So now I am planing on where to have things. And would appreciate your opinions and ideas!

Sorry for the quality, it's planning phase, so I don't bother with lighting and stuff











Spoiler: Some Ideas



I really don't like the "shelf!" to the right, and I actually feel like it's a bit crocked..


Could be kinda cool to have the Revos on the shelf, not sure how tight that is going to be, and if it's going to vibrate a lot.


Could also have them down here, since I am going to use an mATX board (cause that is what I have right now.


If not I am probably going to have one of two reservoir down here.




Thanks


----------



## Faster_is_better

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rahldrac*
> 
> So I am planing my Primo build right now. I want to try to build two loops, one for the GPUs and one for CPU. For that I have 2 Revo D5.
> I am also planning an entire glass window.
> 
> So now I am planing on where to have things. And would appreciate your opinions and ideas!
> 
> Sorry for the quality, it's planning phase, so I don't bother with lighting and stuff
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Some Ideas
> 
> 
> 
> I really don't like the "shelf!" to the right, and I actually feel like it's a bit crocked..
> 
> 
> Could be kinda cool to have the Revos on the shelf, not sure how tight that is going to be, and if it's going to vibrate a lot.
> 
> 
> Could also have them down here, since I am going to use an mATX board (cause that is what I have right now.
> 
> 
> If not I am probably going to have one of two reservoir down here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks


The shelf would definitely need some reinforcement if you plan to keep it open like that.

The only problems I see with mounting the reservoir/pumps on that lower spot is that if you ever decide to get a full ATX board they will have to be moved and likely the whole loop config will be changed. They would look really cool there though, and very different from other Primo builds done. The tubin runs may be interesting from those components though


----------



## Rahldrac

Thinking about removing the whole shelf and add an acrylic spot that I can hang both reservoirs from. Gonna be tricky to make all the bends !


----------



## ghoula

Who said, the Evolv matx can not be filled with radiators?








Front 2x180mm 35mm EK WE
Top 1x180mm 35mm EK WE
Back 1x140mm 45mm EK CE

Ok, back is not entirely internal, but 140mm rad in the back can not be fit. Space is 140mm exactly, rad is 143mm, if you offset it with a fan, then it fits, but side door can't be closed then.









Outside, it was black, carbon wrap was done by me.


Internal shot, during assembly, you can chek, how tight the space was


This is how back rad looks from the back, with old school grill










And finally it is done


Please excuse the pcie power cables, i have to change them to sleeved( and cut for necessary length).
Photo quality is low, did it with phone, but since i couldn't find any modded Evolv on the net, thought i might just share this.


----------



## Luckael




----------



## Tamber

Here is mine, just finished building. Lighting is awful.


----------



## marn3us

is anybody here using a dual-bayres in their Enthoo Pro?

i was thinking about getting an EK D5 dual bayres, but i am unsure wether it would fit or not with those "tool free" 5.25" clips on the bays

thanks in advance


----------



## Ghostrider5666

I used the XSPC one. Just pop off the tool free clips.


----------



## mcnumpty23

finally decided to upgrade to skylake heres new build in my primo--not great quality pic as only had phone handy

http://s1184.photobucket.com/user/mcnumpty23/media/DSC_0130_zps3xmrz5cl.jpg.html


----------



## doyll

Looking good!


----------



## youwitdaface

I've got a two-part question for Evolv ITX owners:

1. has anyone tried to mount a 280mm AIO in the Evolv ITX? seems like it would be a tight squeeze. I've bought an NZXT x61 but now I'm not sure if it will fit!

2. has anyone tried to take the top panel off and mount radiator fans in the "attic" of the case, between the top panel and the radiator rack?

Thanks!


----------



## Tamber

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *youwitdaface*
> 
> I've got a two-part question for Evolv ITX owners:
> 
> 1. has anyone tried to mount a 280mm AIO in the Evolv ITX? seems like it would be a tight squeeze. I've bought an NZXT x61 but now I'm not sure if it will fit!
> 
> 2. has anyone tried to take the top panel off and mount radiator fans in the "attic" of the case, between the top panel and the radiator rack?
> 
> Thanks!


Yes, a CM 280L fits but tight.


----------



## youwitdaface

Would you say you have more than 1.5 mm of space? Newegg says the CM 280L is 311mm and the x61 is 312.5

Did you ever try to mount the fans in the attic?


----------



## Tamber

Fans "fit" up there but I was not comfortable with the limited airflow. 1.5mm of space where?


----------



## youwitdaface

Could you fit an extra 2mm of radiator length is the question I guess.

What do you mean by limited airflow? Did you notice a marked temp increase or was it just personal preference?


----------



## Tamber

I'm not exact on the clearance but 2-4mm sounds about right.
IMO the x61 will fit.


----------



## youwitdaface

I see, thanks a lot for taking the time to answer my questions!


----------



## godboy

Guys! I have an emergency question!

I have already ordered my new build, and I am worried about the compatibility.

Phanteks Evolv ATX with the X99 MSI Godlike Gaming MOBO

PC Part picker says no compatibility issues, and E-ATX is on the supported mobos, but I checked the dimensions and it looks like the mobo is 6mm too wide. Will it still work?

From MSI Site - http://us.msi.com/product/motherboard/X99A-GODLIKE-GAMING.html#hero-specification

MOBO - Dimension

• 12 in. x 10.7 in. (30.5 cm x 27.2 cm)
• E-ATX Form Factor

From Phanteks Site - http://www.phanteks.com/assets/manuals/Enthoo%20Evolv%20ATX%20Manual%20Western.pdf

E-ATX *(up to 264mm wide)

Has anyone tested this specific mobo in this case or anything of the same width? I would greatly appreciate the help.

If the folks here don't think it should work, what case should I go with?

I was planning a caselabs but didn't want to wait for it to be made, and I really dislike all other case makers besides Phanteks / Fractal. How about the Enthoo Pro / Luxe?


----------



## chas1723

Just got my primo. Just waiting for the rest of my watercooling parts to show up. It is a huge case but feels really solid. I am coming from a Corsair 550D.

Sent from my VS980 4G using Tapatalk


----------



## marn3us

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ghostrider5666*
> 
> I used the XSPC one. Just pop off the tool free clips.


will i be able to re-insert the 5.25" clips in place after i pop them out or is it a permanent mod?

thanks in advance


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *marn3us*
> 
> will i be able to re-insert the 5.25" clips in place after i pop them out or is it a permanent mod?
> 
> thanks in advance


You can reuse them...they are designed to be removable to allow for solid mounting with screws


----------



## Pirazy

So, looking at pictures of these recent builds it looks like Phantek's done a revision on their reservoir mount so you won't have to cut it to fit SLI, it's not available as a spare part or accessory on their website though, has anyone managed to get one from support successfully?


----------



## Faster_is_better

That's interesting about the new res bracket. From what I have read in here, support has been pretty good about selling or replacing broken parts if you contact them.

Nice find


----------



## Pirazy

Contacted them using the form on the site on monday, still haven't recieved a reply, not even a confirmation that they've recieved it and that they'll get back to me. If anyone's got the european support email I'd appreciate it in case their site flubbed the form.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pirazy*
> 
> Contacted them using the form on the site on monday, still haven't recieved a reply, not even a confirmation that they've recieved it and that they'll get back to me. If anyone's got the european support email I'd appreciate it in case their site flubbed the form.


Send an email to
[email protected]

Usually works


----------



## Pirazy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Send an email to
> [email protected]
> 
> Usually works


Much obliged doyll, by the way, you sure that shouldn't be [email protected]*phanteks*.com? Just wanna make sure so that i don't sit around waiting for a reply that won't come


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pirazy*
> 
> Much obliged doyll, by the way, you sure that shouldn't be [email protected]*phanteks*.com? Just wanna make sure so that i don't sit around waiting for a reply that won't come


Good catch! .








Guess my "T" finger is a little weak.


----------



## Pirazy

Email sent, now the waiting game begins..

Btw doylle, you still make those nifty little case skateboards for the primo? Think I've seen them around both here and on oc.uk. Assuming you're the same doylle..


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pirazy*
> 
> Email sent, now the waiting game begins..
> 
> Btw doylle, you still make those nifty little case skateboards for the primo? Think I've seen them around both here and on oc.uk. Assuming you're the same doylle..


If they don't answer by the first of the week, forward it to them again with a 2nd notation. If your email software can, get a notification that they opened the email.








Yeah, I'm the one who made them, but am having problems finding material at the moment. Ask me again in about a month.








If I can get materials, I'm thinking of making some for Pro and Luxe too. I could do others, but kinda hard getting everything right without a case to physically work with to be sure everything is as it should be.


----------



## Pirazy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Yeah, I'm the one who made them, but am having problems finding material at the moment. Ask me again in about a month.


Will do, not in a rush. I've had the case since early summer and all the hardware and parts for the build since late summer. Just keep running into small problems that keep delaying me.









First it was all the 4pin fan extensions (2 freaking months) and then it was extra 30mm screws for the rads (3 weeks..). Hopefully I'll have the build done before xmas, only thing holding me back now is the res bracket.


----------



## bartosz302

hi, this is my first post, so i want to show my phanteks build ...


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bartosz302*
> 
> hi, this is my first post, so i want to show my phanteks build ...
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Looks good.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bartosz302*
> 
> hi, this is my first post, so i want to show my phanteks build ...
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Nice looking build.








Just curious why you put the CLC as intake with 4x fans exhaust? Isn't that sucking a lot of dust into case?
What are your CPU and GPU temps under full load?
If CPU is running cool and GPU is on the warm side, I would suggest having the CLC exhausting out the top, 2x front intakes (probably controlled by CPU or GPU PWM signal) and possibly the back as a filtered intake .. and remove unused PCIe back slot covers.


----------



## KaffieneKing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bartosz302*
> 
> hi, this is my first post, so i want to show my phanteks build ...
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Looks like a good build. Building on what doyll said, what case is this? Would it be possible to go for a reverse airflow, say intake from top and back and exhaust out the front?


----------



## smithydan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bartosz302*
> 
> hi, this is my first post, so i want to show my phanteks build ...


Looks good.

Triple 140s up top?


----------



## bartosz302

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Nice looking build.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just curious why you put the CLC as intake with 4x fans exhaust? Isn't that sucking a lot of dust into case?
> What are your CPU and GPU temps under full load?
> If CPU is running cool and GPU is on the warm side, I would suggest having the CLC exhausting out the top, 2x front intakes (probably controlled by CPU or GPU PWM signal) and possibly the back as a filtered intake .. and remove unused PCIe back slot covers.


4 fans is just for looks no problem with dust - in my previous case (enthoo pro), i have 2x140 intake and 2x140 exhaust - same amount of dust...cpu - 2500k (4,5ghz on 1.32v) - max temps. 51, gpu 970 - 1550 on core/8000 on mem/stock volts - 74 - 75 degrees - with radiator on top, as an exhaust - 62 on cpu and 72 on gpu - so i my opinion, first scenario is better...rpm on the fans - 4x140 antec truequiet - 500 rpm, pump on h110 - 900rpm and intake 2x140 fd venturi hp - 300-350 rpm...

ps. removing unused pcie covers - not a good idea
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaffieneKing*
> 
> Looks like a good build. Building on what doyll said, what case is this? Would it be possible to go for a reverse airflow, say intake from top and back and exhaust out the front?


case - enthoo pro m


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bartosz302*
> 
> 4 fans is just for looks no problem with dust - in my previous case (enthoo pro), i have 2x140 intake and 2x140 exhaust - same amount of dust...cpu - 2500k (4,5ghz on 1.32v) - max temps. 51, gpu 970 - 1550 on core/8000 on mem/stock volts - 74 - 75 degrees - with radiator on top, as an exhaust - 62 on cpu and 72 on gpu - so i my opinion, first scenario is better...rpm on the fans - 4x140 antec truequiet - 500 rpm, pump on h110 - 900rpm and intake 2x140 fd venturi hp - 300-350 rpm...
> 
> ps. removing unused pcie covers - not a good idea
> case - enthoo pro m


Was just about to say it was the Pro M.









you have obviously experimented with different airflow layouts.









I like @KaffieneKing's idea of reverse flow. Especially since you don't have a dust problem. That said, Demciflex magnetic mounting filters on the top and back would solve any dust issues.

Why do you think removing PCIe covers is not a good idea? Worst case is if air comes in thru them it is warmed by PSU exhaust .. but still more than likely cooler than air coming off of radiator.


----------



## bartosz302

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> (...)
> I like @KaffieneKing's idea of reverse flow. Especially since you don't have a dust problem. That said, Demciflex magnetic mounting filters on the top and back would solve any dust issues.


i think, this is against physics - hot air rises








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> (...)Why do you think removing PCIe covers is not a good idea? Worst case is if air comes in thru them it is warmed by PSU exhaust .. but still more than likely cooler than air coming off of radiator.


because, this looks weird and its another not filtered hole in the case...my psu works passive all the time - peak wattage from the wall is 280w (during games)


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bartosz302*
> 
> i think, this is against physics - hot air rises
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> because, this looks weird and its another not filtered hole in the case...my psu works passive all the time - peak wattage from the wall is 280w (during games)


Actually it's that expanded air is lighter and rises while cooler air is heavier and falls .. and heat causes air to expand. But it becomes a moot point when outside influences become involved .. like fans. It takes almost no effort to move warmed air down or cool air up. Heating and cooling systems in building and homes do it all the time .. and in computer cases too.









Your PSU is using radiant heat to warm it's air and cause it to move.


----------



## KaffieneKing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bartosz302*
> 
> i think, this is against physics - hot air rises


Its a moot point when you're using a fan to move said air, however if the guy is happy with dust then fine! Aesthetically the build looks great.


----------



## bartosz302

on more thing, when i set the radiator, as an exhaust, i cool my cpu with a hot air (warmed up by gpu) - 10 degrees difference... about psu - with that wattage (280w) it produces ~25w of heat - not a big deal









ps. about dust - no matter ho many fitlers...it always came in...


----------



## Reaper28

I'm having a bit of a problem with the LED strips on my Luxe, I have it set to red but recently it seems as if they are fading to white has anybody had this problem?


----------



## flynna3162581

i found a backplate for my gtx 970 gaming ... that fits perfectly into my phanteks evolve itx ....


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *flynna3162581*
> 
> 
> 
> i found a backplate for my gtx 970 gaming ... that fits perfectly into my phanteks evolve itx ....


Very sharp.


----------



## Cloudraker

I stumbled across this thread in my search for answers on Google about the Primo. So, i joined so i could not only ask, but share with other enthusiasts. My question is whether anyone else has had the absolutely obnoxious creaking/popping from the windowed side panel especially when case pressure increases because of fans?

While im here ill share as well. I built my new rig a few months ago in a Core X9 that at first i loved but slowly grew to hate. I had painted it and made some minor modifications but i just couldn't get over this growing disgust. It's a roomy case but its truly boring and cable management is so hard in and open space that size with no panels for hiding things. I've built more than my fair share of gaming rigs over the last 10 years or so, but the one thing I've never done is my own custom loops. I've only ever used high end air cooling or AIO units. I decided a couple of weeks ago, its time for that to change and i also decided there was no chance i was doing it in the X9.

So, after doing A LOT of reading and obvious window shopping, i figured the Primo was the best bang for the buck and gave me what i was looking for. Now, here i am sharing it with you all. I transfered everything from my old case and this is what i have so far.





As you can see its a work in progress. I ordered my WC parts today and boy is the wife unhappy...lol.

What i have coming:

2x XSPC RX360 Rads in white
2x EK Red Backplates
2x EK Waterblocks
XSPC Raystorm Pro CPU Block
Tons of EK HDC Red Fittings and PETG Tube
XSPC D5 Photon 270 Res/Pump Combo
12x Phanteks 120SP Fans
Tons of red cable combs

I'll update with photos once its all done. But any info on this annoying noise would be great.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cloudraker*
> 
> I stumbled across this thread in my search for answers on Google about the Primo. So, i joined so i could not only ask, but share with other enthusiasts. My question is whether anyone else has had the absolutely obnoxious creaking/popping from the windowed side panel especially when case pressure increases because of fans?
> 
> While im here ill share as well. I built my new rig a few months ago in a Core X9 that at first i loved but slowly grew to hate. I had painted it and made some minor modifications but i just couldn't get over this growing disgust. It's a roomy case but its truly boring and cable management is so hard in and open space that size with no panels for hiding things. I've built more than my fair share of gaming rigs over the last 10 years or so, but the one thing I've never done is my own custom loops. I've only ever used high end air cooling or AIO units. I decided a couple of weeks ago, its time for that to change and i also decided there was no chance i was doing it in the X9.
> 
> So, after doing A LOT of reading and obvious window shopping, i figured the Primo was the best bang for the buck and gave me what i was looking for. Now, here i am sharing it with you all. I transfered everything from my old case and this is what i have so far.
> 
> As you can see its a work in progress. I ordered my WC parts today and boy is the wife unhappy...lol.
> 
> What i have coming:
> 
> 2x XSPC RX360 Rads in white
> 2x EK Red Backplates
> 2x EK Waterblocks
> XSPC Raystorm Pro CPU Block
> Tons of EK HDC Red Fittings and PETG Tube
> XSPC D5 Photon 270 Res/Pump Combo
> 12x Phanteks 120SP Fans
> Tons of red cable combs
> 
> I'll update with photos once its all done. But any info on this annoying noise would be great.


most people that it bothers greatly replace the side with an acrylic sheet with magnets to hold it in place...or they replace the panels...some said they shimmed the panel from the inside and it helped...this is an issue with all three cases...the primo is probably the worst as the door is larger...I was lucky on my pro I never had that sound...congrats on moving up to the real deal though...you'll likely never go back to air







check the forums here for a lot of good info from guys like b negative and the likes they have quite a few good tutorials on the petg and measuring, bending, etc.


----------



## MrfingerIII

Some pics of my recent build 6700K Asrock Fatality K6 32GB TridentZ 3200MHZ


----------



## sav4

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrfingerIII*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some pics of my recent build 6700K Asrock Fatality K6 32GB TridentZ 3200MHZ


Build looks nice , tho your top and rear fans look like they would be recycling the hot air .
How are the front fans set intake?


----------



## MrfingerIII

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sav4*
> 
> Build looks nice , tho your top and rear fans look like they would be recycling the hot air .
> How are the front fans set intake?


The top fans in the back are pushing air up out of the case the front fan is pushing air in

Here is a temp shot


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sav4*
> 
> Build looks nice , tho your top and rear fans look like they would be recycling the hot air .
> How are the front fans set intake?


Yes, but that is just the tip of the issue.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrfingerIII*
> 
> The top fans in the back are pushing air up out of the case the front fan is pushing air in
> 
> Here is a temp shot


Your top fans should all be facing in the same direction, otherwise two of them are doing little but circulating air between each other.

And the direction of those fans should all be _*exhaust*_. The whole "run the CLC as intake to gain one degree" is incredibly myopic - you are essentially putting your other components in a convection oven. That one degree is the reason your GPU is running hotter than it should, as well as the VRM. You have no air_flow_ with that setup, just a lot of air_blow_.

You need to reverse the rad fans and completely lose that top front fan. That will result in better airflow, cooler components and less noise.


----------



## doyll

What ciarlatano said.








We want about the same amount of intake vent area as exhaust with a little more intake fan airflow potential than exhaust. I say "potential" because a case only flow as much air as the lesser airflow areas; intake or exhaust.

We also want more cool intake airflow going to component coolers than they flow, with their heated exhaust air leaving the case as smoothly as possible so that it does not mix with and warm the cool air going to components. You might find "Ways to Better Cooling' link in my sig helpful. 1st post is index, click on topics of interest to see them.


----------



## oz120

Ordered my Enthoo Luxe in white last night at midnight. Should be here in the by the end of next week. I cant wait to get it.

Just one question of the little reviews on newegg have any of you guys/girls had problems with the shipping such as busted side window, scratched side windows, missing parts, bad paint? I am just trying to figure out how soon I am going to paint the case.


----------



## sav4

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *oz120*
> 
> Ordered my Enthoo Luxe in white last night at midnight. Should be here in the by the end of next week. I cant wait to get it.
> 
> Just one question of the little reviews on newegg have any of you guys/girls had problems with the shipping such as busted side window, scratched side windows, missing parts, bad paint? I am just trying to figure out how soon I am going to paint the case.


My luxe came undamaged and had all the bits . I think most of the issues were from the accessories box coming loose in transit.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *oz120*
> 
> Ordered my Enthoo Luxe in white last night at midnight. Should be here in the by the end of next week. I cant wait to get it.
> 
> Just one question of the little reviews on newegg have any of you guys/girls had problems with the shipping such as busted side window, scratched side windows, missing parts, bad paint? I am just trying to figure out how soon I am going to paint the case.


I have the pro and the window of my case had some small scuffs on it...it seems like they had a bad run of them at that time a few people here noted similar things...however some plastic polish and a buffing pad and it was like new again...everything was secured and accounted for...no thin or missing paint...aside from the door the only thing I noticed missing was one of the Velcro cable management ties....but upon inspection it appears qa caught it and included an extra in with the extras they already provide


----------



## oz120

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sav4*
> 
> My luxe came undamaged and had all the bits . I think most of the issues were from the accessories box coming loose in transit.


Good to hear.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> I have the pro and the window of my case had some small scuffs on it...it seems like they had a bad run of them at that time a few people here noted similar things...however some plastic polish and a buffing pad and it was like new again...everything was secured and accounted for...no thin or missing paint...aside from the door the only thing I noticed missing was one of the Velcro cable management ties....but upon inspection it appears qa caught it and included an extra in with the extras they already provide


I will keep that in mind in case mine needs some love and care when it gets here.

I cant wait to put my Z97X and 4690K in there.

I got the 1m light with it also but now that I think about it I might order the 2m sometime in the future also.


----------



## MrfingerIII

I don't understand why all of you are hell bent on thinking i set my fans wrong

In my location my weather is much hotter and forgive me if i am wrong when i put my Rig together it was they way i wanted it not how you all say it should be

If you can't say anything nice instead of criticizing my fan set up then i don't know why i am even on this forum

Just because you all agree on what your set up should be would probably pull no better results then my current set up i been building for over 20 years don't fool yourselves

Fans mounted in different directions actually circulate more air and i am also using Corsair SP fans so my Airflow is really good and when you have a your ssd mounted on the other side of the case in a corner with little no airflow of course it will be higher in heat my old setup it was 22c

If you have the case you know the SSD on the other side you know that will naturally turn ambient temps higher than normal anyway cheers guys


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrfingerIII*
> 
> I don't understand why all of you are hell bent on thinking i set my fans wrong
> 
> In my location my weather is much hotter and forgive me if i am wrong when i put my Rig together it was they way i wanted it not how you all say it should be
> 
> If you can't say anything nice instead of criticizing my fan set up then i don't know why i am even on this forum
> 
> Just because you all agree on what your set up should be would probably pull no better results then my current set up i been building for over 20 years don't fool yourselves
> 
> Fans mounted in different directions actually circulate more air and i am also using Corsair SP fans so my Airflow is really good and when you have a your ssd mounted on the other side of the case in a corner with little no airflow of course it will be higher in heat my old setup it was 22c
> 
> If you have the case you know the SSD on the other side you know that will naturally turn ambient temps higher than normal anyway cheers guys


It wasn't meant as criticism. It was an attempt to help you with some fundamental issues issues that are keeping your build from getting its best performance and lowest noise by people who have used the case extensively.


----------



## MrfingerIII

I understand your trying to help but i do have the best Airflow possible and the noise is not a issue i'm using Corsair AF and SP fans on the Rad the loudest noise in my Rig is the GPU because i cranked the fan up to run test

I could see this being a problem if i had my exhaust running backwards but my set up renders very good results you can only get better in ALASKA

i am in Southern California where the heat has been from 70-100 Degrees and with temps like mine in weather like that is really good results

This is how my fan direction is to clear this up once and for all Rad fans UP UP DOWN front of case INTAKE BOTTOM FAN UP REAR EXHAUST

You see how my circulation works

No matter how you guys see it the front intake will push to the back while the rear exhaust sucks it back and the others push it up it pretty much pushing maximum air flow my temps shown this already

they would be much worse otherwise


----------



## oz120

I have a question.

How is neutral air flow good for your PC?


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *oz120*
> 
> I have a question.
> 
> How is neutral air flow good for your PC?


The whole positive, negative, neutral is stupid. Airlfow is airflow. The only pressure involved is used to move the air. Higher pressure move to equalize itself into lower pressure.

In case airflow, if case has all filtered intakes we want the intake fans to have a slightly higher airflow potential than exhaust. I say potential because a case flows as much air out as it flows in. If it didn't one of two things would eventually happen; it would puff up like a balloon and go "BOOM!" or be sucked into a little ball. A case flows the lesser of the two potentials the lesser of intake or exhaust dictates the flow rate.

That smoke video is so bass ackwards it's not even funny. They change fans and airflow positions to change the intake and exhaustpotential ratios and say the airflow pattern is the result of pressure.







What the idiots who made that video are completely ignoring it that airflow doesn't care what the pressure inside of case is compared to room. The airflow's path through the case is j ust that, it's path through the case.

Sorry I can't make it eaier to understand. "Ways to Better Cooling" link in my sig might give you more insight about how case airflow works. 1st post is index, click on topics of interest to see them.


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> The whole positive, negative, neutral is stupid. Airlfow is airflow. The only pressure involved is used to move the air. Higher pressure move to equalize itself into lower pressure.
> 
> In case airflow, if case has all filtered intakes we want the intake fans to have a slightly higher airflow potential than exhaust. I say potential because a case flows as much air out as it flows in. If it didn't one of two things would eventually happen; it would puff up like a balloon and go "BOOM!" or be sucked into a little ball. A case flows the lesser of the two potentials the lesser of intake or exhaust dictates the flow rate.
> 
> That smoke video is so bass ackwards it's not even funny. They change fans and airflow positions to change the intake and exhaustpotential ratios and say the airflow pattern is the result of pressure.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What the idiots who made that video are completely ignoring it that airflow doesn't care what the pressure inside of case is compared to room. The airflow's path through the case is j ust that, it's path through the case.
> 
> Sorry I can't make it eaier to understand. "Ways to Better Cooling" link in my sig might give you more insight about how case airflow works. 1st post is index, click on topics of interest to see them.


what do you expect from those guys?


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PureBlackFire*
> 
> what do you expect from those guys?


I keep hoping Darwins evolution theory will come true.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrfingerIII*
> 
> I understand your trying to help but i do have the best Airflow possible and the noise is not a issue i'm using Corsair AF and SP fans on the Rad the loudest noise in my Rig is the GPU because i cranked the fan up to run test
> 
> I could see this being a problem if i had my exhaust running backwards but my set up renders very good results you can only get better in ALASKA
> 
> i am in Southern California where the heat has been from 70-100 Degrees and with temps like mine in weather like that is really good results
> 
> This is how my fan direction is to clear this up once and for all Rad fans UP UP DOWN front of case INTAKE BOTTOM FAN UP REAR EXHAUST
> 
> You see how my circulation works
> 
> No matter how you guys see it the front intake will push to the back while the rear exhaust sucks it back and the others push it up it pretty much pushing maximum air flow my temps shown this already
> 
> they would be much worse otherwise


Often calculations do not work. What we have suggested is how it really works. Important thing is you are happy with it, even if you don't like us.


----------



## Sillence

Does anyone use 2+ long graphic cards inside a Enthoo Primo here? I want that case but with msi gtx 970 sli (269mm) the lower card would hit the reservoir bracket. Can i mod it in any way or buy another with bigger "hole" for gpus?


----------



## BarneyRubble

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sillence*
> 
> Does anyone use 2+ long graphic cards inside a Enthoo Primo here? I want that case but with msi gtx 970 sli (269mm) the lower card would hit the reservoir bracket. Can i mod it in any way or buy another with bigger "hole" for gpus?


Assuming you want to use the reservoir bracket, and you want to use the '3rd slot' for a GPU; you have to modify the reservoir bracket. You have to cut (tin snips work) the bracket so the GPU fits. I also cut the 'cover' to match the bracket. It's not a big deal. Also, the reservoir should not be larger than 60mm if you have long GPUs. I have two EVGA 980 TI Hydro Coppers for reference. FYI, the holes in the bracket are designed for the Bitspower reservoir.


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sillence*
> 
> Does anyone use 2+ long graphic cards inside a Enthoo Primo here? I want that case but with msi gtx 970 sli (269mm) the lower card would hit the reservoir bracket. Can i mod it in any way or buy another with bigger "hole" for gpus?


If you don't want to do any cutting you should be able to buy the new revision: http://www.overclock.net/t/1418637/official-case-phanteks-case-club-for-lovers-owners/11600_20#post_24562174 That's how I got a 2nd HDD panel (with the Phanteks badge on it) for my Primo. Just email [email protected] and ask if you could purchase that piece for your chassis and specify if you have another color chassis (mine was red/black). They'll ask for your shipping address and send an invoice through shopify. Once you pay it they will send it your way.

Invoice #D21 from Phanteks

September 18, 2015

To purchase your order, follow this secure payment link: https://checkout.shopify.com/*******/invoices/***********************************

Invoice summary

1 x Primo HDD panel (Red) - Custom for $19.99 USD each

Subtotal: $19.99 USD
Shipping: $15.95 USD


----------



## Sillence

What colour does include the new revision res bracket? And do you know how to cut it otherwise?


----------



## Sillence

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxdarkreap3rxx*
> 
> If you don't want to do any cutting you should be able to buy the new revision: http://www.overclock.net/t/1418637/official-case-phanteks-case-club-for-lovers-owners/11600_20#post_24562174 That's how I got a 2nd HDD panel (with the Phanteks badge on it) for my Primo. Just email [email protected] and ask if you could purchase that piece for your chassis and specify if you have another color chassis (mine was red/black). They'll ask for your shipping address and send an invoice through shopify. Once you pay it they will send it your way.
> 
> Invoice #D21 from Phanteks
> 
> September 18, 2015
> 
> To purchase your order, follow this secure payment link: https://checkout.shopify.com/*******/invoices/***********************************
> 
> Invoice summary
> 
> 1 x Primo HDD panel (Red) - Custom for $19.99 USD each
> 
> Subtotal: $19.99 USD
> Shipping: $15.95 USD


Failed to quote you but me previous comment was to you
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BarneyRubble*
> 
> Assuming you want to use the reservoir bracket, and you want to use the '3rd slot' for a GPU; you have to modify the reservoir bracket. You have to cut (tin snips work) the bracket so the GPU fits. I also cut the 'cover' to match the bracket. It's not a big deal. Also, the reservoir should not be larger than 60mm if you have long GPUs. I have two EVGA 980 TI Hydro Coppers for reference. FYI, the holes in the bracket are designed for the Bitspower reservoir.


Okey, thanks. Is the bracket plastic? Can i cut it with a knife? Is it hard?


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sillence*
> 
> Failed to quote you but me previous comment was to you
> Okey, thanks. Is the bracket plastic? Can i cut it with a knife? Is it hard?


The base piece is metal: http://cdn.overclock.net/7/72/729951c2_32080_4_phanteks_launches_new_enthoo_primo_pc_chassis.jpeg and it has a rectangular piece of plastic on it that's removable: http://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0232/4705/products/left_1024x1024.png?v=1376082945


----------



## Sillence

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxdarkreap3rxx*
> 
> The base piece is metal: http://cdn.overclock.net/7/72/729951c2_32080_4_phanteks_launches_new_enthoo_primo_pc_chassis.jpeg and it has a rectangular piece of plastic on it that's removable: http://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0232/4705/products/left_1024x1024.png?v=1376082945


What tools do i need to cut the metal res bracket then? And how?


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sillence*
> 
> What tools do i need to cut the metal res bracket then? And how?


Not sure how thick the metal is. It is completely removable if you want the easiest option. When I modded my HDD cage (cut in half) I used a sawzall with some high teeth-per-inch jigsaw blades, and some WD40 on the blade.


----------



## Faster_is_better

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Cloudraker*
> 
> I stumbled across this thread in my search for answers on Google about the Primo. So, i joined so i could not only ask, but share with other enthusiasts. My question is whether anyone else has had the absolutely obnoxious creaking/popping from the windowed side panel especially when case pressure increases because of fans?
> 
> While im here ill share as well. I built my new rig a few months ago in a Core X9 that at first i loved but slowly grew to hate. I had painted it and made some minor modifications but i just couldn't get over this growing disgust. It's a roomy case but its truly boring and cable management is so hard in and open space that size with no panels for hiding things. I've built more than my fair share of gaming rigs over the last 10 years or so, but the one thing I've never done is my own custom loops. I've only ever used high end air cooling or AIO units. I decided a couple of weeks ago, its time for that to change and i also decided there was no chance i was doing it in the X9.
> 
> So, after doing A LOT of reading and obvious window shopping, i figured the Primo was the best bang for the buck and gave me what i was looking for. Now, here i am sharing it with you all. I transfered everything from my old case and this is what i have so far.
> 
> As you can see its a work in progress. I ordered my WC parts today and boy is the wife unhappy...lol.
> 
> What i have coming:
> 
> 2x XSPC RX360 Rads in white
> 2x EK Red Backplates
> 2x EK Waterblocks
> XSPC Raystorm Pro CPU Block
> Tons of EK HDC Red Fittings and PETG Tube
> XSPC D5 Photon 270 Res/Pump Combo
> 12x Phanteks 120SP Fans
> Tons of red cable combs
> 
> I'll update with photos once its all done. But any info on this annoying noise would be great.
> 
> 
> 
> most people that it bothers greatly replace the side with an acrylic sheet with magnets to hold it in place...or they replace the panels...some said they shimmed the panel from the inside and it helped...this is an issue with all three cases...the primo is probably the worst as the door is larger...I was lucky on my pro I never had that sound...congrats on moving up to the real deal though...you'll likely never go back to air
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> check the forums here for a lot of good info from guys like b negative and the likes they have quite a few good tutorials on the petg and measuring, bending, etc.
Click to expand...

Seems like someone put some tape or even shoved some paper between the window and the door and that helped to stop the creaking. Also I don't think it is caused by any fan pressure, but instead the heating/cooling of the plastic. I hear my case make some noises very rarely, and it will probably be a lot worse this time of year since the basement is going to be very cool now...
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sillence*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *xxdarkreap3rxx*
> 
> The base piece is metal: http://cdn.overclock.net/7/72/729951c2_32080_4_phanteks_launches_new_enthoo_primo_pc_chassis.jpeg and it has a rectangular piece of plastic on it that's removable: http://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0232/4705/products/left_1024x1024.png?v=1376082945
> 
> 
> 
> What tools do i need to cut the metal res bracket then? And how?
Click to expand...

It is very thin sheet metal, but will need either something like a dremel with metal cut-off wheel or some metal/tin snips and a file to dull the sharp edges when you are done.
You can see how I modified mine here. I used the dremel to cut notches in the plastic part, and also notched the bottom corner of the res bracket.

If you haven't bought the case yet, it may come with the new style bracket.


----------



## Cloudraker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sillence*
> 
> What tools do i need to cut the metal res bracket then? And how?


If you havent got the case yet, you most likely dont have to worry about any mods, as the newer cases are being shipped with the newer bracket as i believe someone already pointed out. The new bracket works just fine with longer cards and with 1 and 3 slots so theres no interference. I have two eVGA 980Ti's and they fit perfect with the new bracket and no interference.



Thats the newer version of the bracket, unmodified. Chances are you will receive that in your case unless you get a hold of old stock.


----------



## oz120

I can't wait till Wednesday when my Luxe will be here. Then sometime in the future I want to do a MASSIVE build in a Primo and then do a tiny "travel" gaming build.


----------



## owcraftsman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sillence*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *xxdarkreap3rxx*
> 
> The base piece is metal: http://cdn.overclock.net/7/72/729951c2_32080_4_phanteks_launches_new_enthoo_primo_pc_chassis.jpeg and it has a rectangular piece of plastic on it that's removable: http://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0232/4705/products/left_1024x1024.png?v=1376082945
> 
> 
> 
> What tools do i need to cut the metal res bracket then? And how?
Click to expand...

I used one of these work a treat

http://www.lowes.com/pd_198280-930-324HF25N_0__?productId=1057097


----------



## Sillence

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxdarkreap3rxx*
> 
> Not sure how thick the metal is. It is completely removable if you want the easiest option. When I modded my HDD cage (cut in half) I used a sawzall with some high teeth-per-inch jigsaw blades, and some WD40 on the blade.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Faster_is_better*
> 
> Seems like someone put some tape or even shoved some paper between the window and the door and that helped to stop the creaking. Also I don't think it is caused by any fan pressure, but instead the heating/cooling of the plastic. I hear my case make some noises very rarely, and it will probably be a lot worse this time of year since the basement is going to be very cool now...
> It is very thin sheet metal, but will need either something like a dremel with metal cut-off wheel or some metal/tin snips and a file to dull the sharp edges when you are done.
> You can see how I modified mine here. I used the dremel to cut notches in the plastic part, and also notched the bottom corner of the res bracket.
> 
> If you haven't bought the case yet, it may come with the new style bracket.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cloudraker*
> 
> If you havent got the case yet, you most likely dont have to worry about any mods, as the newer cases are being shipped with the newer bracket as i believe someone already pointed out. The new bracket works just fine with longer cards and with 1 and 3 slots so theres no interference. I have two eVGA 980Ti's and they fit perfect with the new bracket and no interference.
> 
> 
> 
> Thats the newer version of the bracket, unmodified. Chances are you will receive that in your case unless you get a hold of old stock.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *owcraftsman*
> 
> I used one of these work a treat
> http://www.lowes.com/pd_198280-930-324HF25N_0__?productId=1057097


Thank you guys, you really helped me out







one last question, does any of you (or anyone else ofc) know what maximum diameter i can have on the reservoir without being blocked by the graphics card?


----------



## bl4ckdot

Hi, I'll soon have my Primo. It will have an EK Predator 360 (cooling cpu and gpu) in it, mounted at the top. I was thinking of two intake fans for the front panel, Predator 360 fans as exhaust (maybe a push/pull ?) and rear fan as exhaust aswell.
What do you guys think ? Should I also swap them for a different model ?


----------



## 13337

hello fellow overclockers. i was wondering if any EVOLV itx users could help me out. I wish to build a ITX rig with the EK predator 240. can the EK 240 fit the top radiator panel and still allow me the space to fit a 120mm rear exhaust fan?


----------



## Strider49

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bl4ckdot*
> 
> Hi, I'll soon have my Primo. *It will have an EK Predator 360 (cooling cpu and gpu) in it, mounted at the top. I was thinking of two intake fans for the front panel, Predator 360 fans as exhaust (maybe a push/pull ?) and rear fan as exhaust aswell.*
> What do you guys think ? Should I also swap them for a different model ?


That is what I'm planning to do. Two intake fans at the front, one exhaust at the back, and then move the top exhaust fan to the bottom to make up for two intake fans at the bottom. You can keep the fans that come with the case, they are very good case fans in my opinion and they move a lot of air for the noise they generate.

I'll also setup the Predator 360 fans in push/pull, exhausting hot air out of the case through the top, and add a pre-filled water block with QDC to my 980 Ti G1. Mind you that you can't have anything taller than ~54mm where the rad and push fans will need to overhang the mobo for it to fit. For instance, I have a Maximus VI Hero and G.Skill Trident X ram, which is 54mm high. Fortunately, the ram heat-spreader comes with removable top fin, so I think I'll be fine doing push/pull.


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *13337*
> 
> hello fellow overclockers. i was wondering if any EVOLV itx users could help me out. I wish to build a ITX rig with the EK predator 240. can the EK 240 fit the top radiator panel and still allow me the space to fit a 120mm rear exhaust fan?


Yes, you have 330mm of room. The EK 240 Predator is 295mm leaving you 35mm.


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *13337*
> 
> hello fellow overclockers. i was wondering if any EVOLV itx users could help me out. I wish to build a ITX rig with the EK predator 240. can the EK 240 fit the top radiator panel and still allow me the space to fit a 120mm rear exhaust fan?


more than likely not. the rad goes on the bracket so it's not like you can put it all the way to the front of the case. then the Predator's thickness is an issue in the Evolv itx. I will not reccommend using any rad in that case that is larger than 280 mm long or 35 -38 mm thick. theu don't fit nicely.basically regular 240 rads.


----------



## Faster_is_better

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sillence*
> 
> Thank you guys, you really helped me out
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> one last question, does any of you (or anyone else ofc) know what maximum diameter i can have on the reservoir without being blocked by the graphics card?


Check this thread









Off hand I think it is something like 64mm+ but there are pictures in that thread that will give you a good idea.


----------



## Strider49

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cloudraker*
> 
> If you havent got the case yet, you most likely dont have to worry about any mods, as the newer cases are being shipped with the newer bracket as i believe someone already pointed out. The new bracket works just fine with longer cards and with 1 and 3 slots so theres no interference. I have two eVGA 980Ti's and they fit perfect with the new bracket and no interference.
> 
> 
> 
> Thats the newer version of the bracket, unmodified. Chances are you will receive that in your case unless you get a hold of old stock.


Do you know if it will be possible for existing owners to buy this new bracket as an accessory?


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Strider49*
> 
> false
> Do you know if it will be possible for existing owners to buy this new bracket as an accessory?


Most likely. I'd try to contact their support. See my post here:

http://www.overclock.net/t/1418637/official-case-phanteks-case-club-for-lovers-owners/11640_20#post_24588469


----------



## Strider49

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxdarkreap3rxx*
> 
> Most likely. I'd try to contact their support. See my post here:
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1418637/official-case-phanteks-case-club-for-lovers-owners/11640_20#post_24588469


Ah, thanks! Will do that. Sorry for not seeing your post, I haven't been following the thread lately, just came in here and bumped into his post about the new bracket!


----------



## Pirazy

Regarding buying the new revision of the bracket I've been in contact with their european support department, and they'll ship them for €15,- including shipping and handling costs. Assuming they have them in stock, they weren't sure and asked for some comparison photos between the old and new bracket, still haven't recieved a reply to the mail with pictures I sent them last thursday, gonna ask for an update today if I haven't gotten a reply by the time I wake up.


----------



## oz120

Case should be here in less than 12 hours!!!! Can't wait.


----------



## SolidSnakeUS

Finally got around to putting my stuff from a Corsair C70 into an Enthoo ATX. Love this case







.



http://imgur.com/k1QB7


And the dust was worse than you think in the photos.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SolidSnakeUS*
> 
> Finally got around to putting my stuff from a Corsair C70 into an Enthoo ATX. Love this case
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/k1QB7
> 
> 
> And the dust was worse than you think in the photos.


that's sit what mine looks like now only with three dusty radiators in it...(full size pro though)...I've been running it for about 4 months with no panels lol


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SolidSnakeUS*
> 
> Finally got around to putting my stuff from a Corsair C70 into an Enthoo ATX. Love this case
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/k1QB7
> 
> 
> And the dust was worse than you think in the photos.


Pretty amazing how nice and easy it is to build in a quality case.


----------



## Strider49

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pirazy*
> 
> Regarding buying the new revision of the bracket I've been in contact with their european support department, and they'll ship them for €15,- including shipping and handling costs.


That's what they told me too. I've just asked them how much clearance I'll have for gpu(s) with this revised bracket, because I am still not sure if I'll be able to fit a 11.61'' (~295mm) to 12'' (~305mm) long graphics card.


----------



## SolidSnakeUS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Pretty amazing how nice and easy it is to build in a quality case.


Honestly, the biggest plus I noticed for routing cables has to be the hole in the PSU cage so I can put my GPU power cords that way. It was a massive help.


----------



## oz120

Got everything installed and setup and working today. I love this case.


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *oz120*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Got everything installed and setup and working today. I love this case.


Looks good, nice setup.


----------



## oz120

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rfarmer*
> 
> Looks good, nice setup.


Thanks


----------



## oz120

Bad Photo


----------



## oz120

Night Shot!










Sent from my Z932L using Tapatalk


----------



## Strider49

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Strider49*
> 
> That's what they told me too. I've just asked them how much clearance I'll have for gpu(s) with this revised bracket, because I am still not sure if I'll be able to fit a 11.61'' (~295mm) to 12'' (~305mm) long graphics card.


It turns out the revised bracket isn't of much use to me too:
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phanteks Team*
> 
> Hello *****,
> 
> Even with the revised bracket the clearance won't fit a GPU larger than 257mm with cover.
> 
> Clearance
> Graphic card
> 257mm (reservoir bracket installed)
> 
> 277mm (reservoir bracket installed w/o cover)
> 
> 350mm (no reservoir bracket)
> 
> 390mm (HDD cages in front position)
> 
> 515mm (no HDD cages)
> CPU cooler
> 207mm
> Cable management
> 30mm
> 
> Best,
> Phanteks Team


----------



## Tamber

I just ordered the Evolv ITX red/black and the white/black.
My plan is to disassemble them to make a red/white one.


----------



## KaffieneKing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tamber*
> 
> I just ordered the Evolv ITX red/black and the white/black.
> My plan is to disassemble them to make a red/white one.


Could have saved a lot of money by just painting it...


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaffieneKing*
> 
> Could have saved a lot of money by just painting it...


+1.


----------



## Cloudraker

For less than the cost of a second case you probably could have disassembled one and had the parts media blasted and then powder coated.


----------



## Tamber

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaffieneKing*
> 
> Could have saved a lot of money by just painting it...


It is below 0 here and impossible to paint. I do not mind the cost, $75 ea. on Amazon.
Being physically disabled, it is way easier to drill out rivets and reassemble than it would be to strip, sand, paint, sand, paint, sand, paint, sand, clear, sand, clear, sand, clear.


----------



## KaffieneKing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tamber*
> 
> It is below 0 here and impossible to paint. I do not mind the cost, $75 ea. on Amazon.
> Being physically disabled, it is way easier to drill out rivets and reassemble than it would be to strip, sand, paint, sand, paint, sand, paint, sand, clear, sand, clear, sand, clear.


I meant taking it to a auto shop! But I guess $75 isn't too bad considering you'll have spares


----------



## owcraftsman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaffieneKing*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Tamber*
> 
> It is below 0 here and impossible to paint. I do not mind the cost, $75 ea. on Amazon.
> Being physically disabled, it is way easier to drill out rivets and reassemble than it would be to strip, sand, paint, sand, paint, sand, paint, sand, clear, sand, clear, sand, clear.
> 
> 
> 
> I meant taking it to a auto shop! But I guess $75 isn't too bad considering you'll have spares
Click to expand...

Actually he should end up with two pretty cool cases


----------



## smithydan

Enthoo Evolv ATX Galaxy Silver



Should be available at end-of-month.


----------



## rfarmer

Very nice.


----------



## monstermilkman

My build in the phanteks enthoo pro


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smithydan*
> 
> Enthoo Evolv ATX Galaxy Silver
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Should be available at end-of-month.


looks almost white in these pics. very much a metallic silver in these:


----------



## smithydan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PureBlackFire*
> 
> looks almost white in these pics. very much a metallic silver in these:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Yes. Base upon angle and lighting it seems to give a different result.


----------



## Sem

i miss those good old silver cases had a TJ09 silver that a i reluctantly parted with as i wanted to go full water

i hope Phanteks comes out with a full tower EVOLVE

would be great if they had a silver version of that also


----------



## Shneiky

Got a question about the Enthoo Pro M.

Phanteks website says you need you take out the 5.25 bay in order to fit 3 x 120mm. Problem is - I am looking at pictures of the frame and see no reason to remove the cage. Google does not turn out any images of the Pro M with front fans installed.

Anyone has a picture of a Pro M with 3 120mm or dual 140mm fans mounted up front? Not really interested in a radiator - just fans.


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shneiky*
> 
> Got a question about the Enthoo Pro M.
> 
> Phanteks website says you need you take out the 5.25 bay in order to fit 3 x 120mm. Problem is - I am looking at pictures of the frame and see no reason to remove the cage. Google does not turn out any images of the Pro M with front fans installed.
> 
> Anyone has a picture of a Pro M with 3 120mm or dual 140mm fans mounted up front? Not really interested in a radiator - just fans.


yes, I don't know why they say that, but you can get 3 x 120mm fans, 2 x 140 mm fans or a 280 rad in the front without removing the optical bay. http://www.overclock.net/t/1418637/official-case-phanteks-case-club-for-lovers-owners/11240_40#post_24406703


----------



## Shneiky

Thank you for the post. I was thinking there should have been something like this posted around here - just didnt want to go trough 500 pages.









Now If I can only figure out a cost efficient way to get a solid side panel... I know I can just paint the window - but it is not the same - plus, matching the black paint will be near impossible. I was going to get this case an year ago, but that window has been turning me off. Solid side panel+sound dampening foam master race!


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shneiky*
> 
> Thank you for the post. I was thinking there should have been something like this posted around here - just didnt want to go trough 500 pages.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now If I can only figure out a cost efficient way to get a solid side panel... I know I can just paint the window - but it is not the same - plus, matching the black paint will be near impossible. I was going to get this case an year ago, but that window has been turning me off. Solid side panel+sound dampening foam master race!


if it's anything like the other phanteks cases the doors are reversible. if so, order the solid back panel.


----------



## oz120

Is the door on the Primo reversible? All the reviews I have seen is that they only swing toward the windowed side of the case.


----------



## Shneiky

@PureBlackFire,

That is kind of impossible. I can't find Pro M panels for sale. I can only see Enthoo Pro solid/window panels for sale. They don't list it on their website. I live in The Netherlands, so Phanteks availability should be good - right? Go figure.


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *oz120*
> 
> Is the door on the Primo reversible? All the reviews I have seen is that they only swing toward the windowed side of the case.


huh? both doors swing outward fromt the front side. they should be symmetrical. the doors on the luxe and pro are.


----------



## oz120

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PureBlackFire*
> 
> huh? both doors swing outward fromt the front side. they should be symmetrical. the doors on the luxe and pro are.


I was referring to the door covering the 5.25" bays.


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *oz120*
> 
> I was referring to the door covering the 5.25" bays.


oh, that isn't reversible.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *oz120*
> 
> Is the door on the Primo reversible? All the reviews I have seen is that they only swing toward the windowed side of the case.


No, the door is not reversible.

There has been at least one guy who did reverse his front door. He was going to do a detailed explanation, but I must have missed it.


----------



## Faster_is_better

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *oz120*
> 
> Is the door on the Primo reversible? All the reviews I have seen is that they only swing toward the windowed side of the case.
> 
> 
> 
> No, the door is not reversible.
> 
> There has been at least one guy who did reverse his front door. He was going to do a detailed explanation, but I must have missed it.
Click to expand...

I think @wjturner78 did the write up in his build log. I may be wrong though. (free advertisement for wjturner78 at any rate







)


----------



## Pirazy

Time for an update on the revised reservoir brackets, I've been in contact with the european support department and they only have the white ones in stock, they've ordered black ones (and presumeably other colours) but delivery can take upwards to a month, hopefully less, and they charge 15€ so if you want one I suggest you get in touch with them.


----------



## By-Tor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *oz120*
> 
> I was referring to the door covering the 5.25" bays.


Yeah that door should have been designed to swing away from the windowed side of the case. Most (not all people) people have the case sitting where the windowed side can be seen while at the desk.


----------



## oz120

With the way mine is sitting I would love to have a power and reset button on the rear IO lol


----------



## Caligo

Here is mine. Build it yesterday


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Caligo*
> 
> Here is mine. Build it yesterday
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Looks good, need some more pics.


----------



## mcnumpty23

one of the few things that has bugged me about my primo is fully loaded it is seriously heavy and trying to move it to get to the rear ports is hernia territory

no idea why they didn't put wheels on it

finally got to me so decided to see what I could do

under £10 for a second hand floating shelf and 4 heavy duty castors later

sorry for quality but only had phone to hand but they should still show what I did ok

also redid the cooling loop and added a nzxt hue+ lighting kit--you can software control it and have to say its fantastic


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Caligo*
> 
> Here is mine. Build it yesterday


Looking good. This should be the example used for "actually.....a low priced air cooler looks a lot better than your CLC". Great clean look.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *oz120*
> 
> With the way mine is sitting I would love to have a power and reset button on the rear IO lol


Easy enough to do. Grab a power switch like this - http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA27C18Z4113&nm_mc=KNC-GoogleMKP-PC&cm_mmc=KNC-GoogleMKP-PC-_-pla-_-PDA+Accessories-_-9SIA27C18Z4113&gclid=CjwKEAiA7MWyBRDpi5TFqqmm6hMSJAD6GLeAnB_vWhsQuLQt1uohFogOydOokw6d53KvejDdhETVoBoCwDbw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds - and mount it in one of the blanks.


----------



## Caligo

With open door.


----------



## oz120

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Easy enough to do. Grab a power switch like this - http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA27C18Z4113&nm_mc=KNC-GoogleMKP-PC&cm_mmc=KNC-GoogleMKP-PC-_-pla-_-PDA+Accessories-_-9SIA27C18Z4113&gclid=CjwKEAiA7MWyBRDpi5TFqqmm6hMSJAD6GLeAnB_vWhsQuLQt1uohFogOydOokw6d53KvejDdhETVoBoCwDbw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds - and mount it in one of the blanks.


I will grab a few of those to put on a rear shield thanks.


----------



## bl4ckdot

Hey guys, I have some quick questions for my enthoo primo :
- Do I only need to connect the molex that comes from the front ? I have no led fans nor led strip
- The power connector of the fan hub (a sata one) says that I need to read the manual before plugin it, but as far as I read it, I see nothing special about that ?
- There is also a second sata connector but I don't remember where it goes (at work atm), anything I should know about this one ?
- Last question, since I have an EK 360, I'll have to plug it on the CPU FAN connector. Where can I connect the Enthoo hub ? My motherboard is a Gigabyte Z97-SOC and has at least two 4 pins SYS Fans and 4 pins OPT Fans (http://www.gigabyte.fr/FileUpload/Features/2/Photo/3844.png), maybe I can connect the hub on this one ?

Thanks


----------



## nerijusuza

Will be quiet! DARK ROCK PRO 3 or SHADOW ROCK 2 fit in Phanteks Enthoo Evolv Mini-ITX? I've seen a regular DARK ROCK 3 fit inside.


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nerijusuza*
> 
> Will be quiet! DARK ROCK PRO 3 or SHADOW ROCK 2 fit in Phanteks Enthoo Evolv Mini-ITX? I've seen a regular DARK ROCK 3 fit inside.


The Evolv iTX has 200mm clearance for cpu heatsinks, both of the be quite are around 160mm. Plenty of room.


----------



## nobkins

I have the Evolv m-atx case and am looking at upgrading my ageing components that I just stuffed in there after getting this great case.

Is there anyone out there who can confirm the Swiftech H240x (2 x 140) will fit in this m-atx case. I know the top will take a 280 but not sure if the swiftech one will fit with it's slightly different design.

A picture of one in a case would be great if anyone has it. I have tried google but can't find anything to confirm 100%.

Thanks

Jim


----------



## KaffieneKing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nobkins*
> 
> I have the Evolv m-atx case and am looking at upgrading my ageing components that I just stuffed in there after getting this great case.
> 
> Is there anyone out there who can confirm the Swiftech H240x (2 x 140) will fit in this m-atx case. I know the top will take a 280 but not sure if the swiftech one will fit with it's slightly different design.
> 
> A picture of one in a case would be great if anyone has it. I have tried google but can't find anything to confirm 100%.
> 
> Thanks
> 
> Jim


I can't confirm but if the pump unit is away from the mono it should be fine, its quite a large case.


----------



## BLAMM0

Here's mine. Black/White edition.


----------



## testplsignore

Question for Primo owners:

Has Phanteks (or anyone really), come up with a more generous reservoir bracket?

As I understand it now the current one is alright for reference Nvidia cards, but won't allow for anything much longer than that.

Seem like an easy product for someone like MNPCtech to come out with...


----------



## ktoc9

First post, recently moved from my Fractal Design R4 to a Phanteks Enthoo Evolv ATX...Love this case. So clean. My only annoyance is my 970 is short so at the moment the cables look bad. I may have to cut a hole at a later date but I'm not doing anything too drastic as I'm off to Insomnia in a few weeks










Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## JbstormburstADV

Any chance someone's tried to install a HWLabs SR2 480 in the bottom of the case? Is it too wide for the gap between the PSU shroud and the case wall?


----------



## PetrasSukys

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JbstormburstADV*
> 
> Any chance someone's tried to install a HWLabs SR2 480 in the bottom of the case? Is it too wide for the gap between the PSU shroud and the case wall?


SR2 480 from HWLabs has width of 133mm. According to measurements found in this very thread, very first post, width between PSU shroud and case (Optical Bays, HDD support wall) wall is around 126-127mm. So, unless you are willing to remove or cut out part of that wall, you are not gonna fit SR2 480 in there.


----------



## ajax1904

I'm looking into getting a enthoo pro and doing a custom loop, I want to run a 420x30mm radiator on top with 3 140x25mm fans pushing air, but I also want to run a 140x30mm rad on the back with another 140x25mm fan pushing air out. Has anyone had any success with this setup? The only person I've seen with something similar is this guy on YouTube 



But he seemed to have some clearance issues with the 2 radiators and fans, he mentioned he's using 36mm thick radiators so I was hoping I could pull it off with 30mm ones. Hopefully someone has tried this and can chime in, thanks for the help.


----------



## wizardbro

Interested in evolve matx. Wondering if the top radiator mounting is offset towards the glass sidepanel? Otherwise radiator or fans could hit the 8-pin cpu connector near if it isn't.
Also the top panel is kind of blocked off, would it impact cooling performance much?


----------



## smithydan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wizardbro*
> 
> Interested in evolve matx. Wondering if the top radiator mounting is offset towards the glass sidepanel? Otherwise radiator or fans could hit the 8-pin cpu connector near if it isn't.
> Also the top panel is kind of blocked off, would it impact cooling performance much?


You can set up the h100i in the top and the 120 in the back. There is enough room. Yes it is offset.


----------



## st3f

Has anyone found a way of installing a single HDD in the Enthoo Pro, other than in a 5.25 slot, without having to use a whole HDD cage? This case is seriously missing NZXT-style modular HDD cages for 1, 2, or 3 drives...


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *st3f*
> 
> Has anyone found a way of installing a single HDD in the Enthoo Pro, other than in a 5.25 slot, without having to use a whole HDD cage? This case is seriously missing NZXT-style modular HDD cages for 1, 2, or 3 drives...


I would think this could be easily adapted - http://phanteks.com/PH-HDDKT.html


----------



## oz120

I am wondering if you can order the front screen from the pro to put on the front of the luxe to allow for better intake. This should be easy I would think. I will have to give them a call this week to see what it will cost me.


----------



## Cozmo85

How bad is front airflow impeded in the ATX Evolv by the front panel?


----------



## st3f

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> I would think this could be easily adapted - http://phanteks.com/PH-HDDKT.html


There's nowhere to put it tho...


----------



## Tamber

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cozmo85*
> 
> How bad is front airflow impeded in the ATX Evolv by the front panel?


I have the ITX version and although I did ditch the stock fan for 2 140mm's, airflow has never been an issue.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cozmo85*
> 
> How bad is front airflow impeded in the ATX Evolv by the front panel?


Not badly at all. There is more open space than you would assume from seeing photos.


----------



## Aislini

Hello everyone

I ordered Enthoo pro should be at my house somewhere within 4 days.I wanna get EK-XLC 360/240 for my 5930k. Iim still undecided on which one i will get.My question is will i be able to fit it in my case?


----------



## oz120

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aislini*
> 
> Hello everyone
> 
> I ordered Enthoo pro should be at my house somewhere within 4 days.I wanna get EK-XLC 360/240 for my 5930k. Iim still undecided on which one i will get.My question is will i be able to fit it in my case?


The top can fit a 360/240/420 the front can fit 240.


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *oz120*
> 
> The top can fit a 360/240/420 the front can fit 240.


all radiators/fans aren't the same size, so a bit more info than what than the basic specs say is needed.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aislini*
> 
> Hello everyone
> 
> I ordered Enthoo pro should be at my house somewhere within 4 days.I wanna get EK-XLC 360/240 for my 5930k. Iim still undecided on which one i will get.My question is will i be able to fit it in my case?


the predators are too thick for the top of Enthoo Pro with most motherboards due to obstructions (8-pin cpu cable/connector, vrm heatsink and even ram) as the above motherboard clearance is 65mm and the Predator kits are 68mm thick. the 240 will fit right in the front or bottom of the case easily, in the bottom you'll still be able to use one hard drive cage.


----------



## Cozmo85

Ok, trying to decide between Pro M and Evolv ATX. As far as i can tell they are the same insides, different outsides. But the ProM should have much better airflow due to the open mesh front. Is that all correct?


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cozmo85*
> 
> Ok, trying to decide between Pro M and Evolv ATX. As far as i can tell they are the same insides, different outsides. But the ProM should have much better airflow due to the open mesh front. Is that all correct?


Essentially, yes. The EVOLV also comes with some nicer accessories, but all of them can be purchased individually if needed.


----------



## Cozmo85

Thanks. I think ill just get the Pro M, some peel and seal dampener pads from home depot, and a grid+ v2 for fan control.


----------



## JbstormburstADV

How long is the inside edge of the Primo? I want to see if the NZXT Hue+ would be able to do a full circumference of the edge.


----------



## enzoexpo

Hi everyone,
i'd like to share with you my last workstation liquid cooled The choice of the case has been Phanteks Enthoo Evolv Micro-ATX Matt Black.

For the water cooling i've recycled some components found in my boxes









Water Block: Ybris ACS
Pum: Phobya DC12-400
Radiator: Coolgate 240
Reservior: Tecnofront
Tube: Primochill Primofelx Advanced LRT Bloodshed Red
Liquid: Mayhem Pastel Red

PC:
Mainboard: Asrock H81M-DGS R2.0
CPU: Intel Pentium G3258
DDR3: G.Skill F3-17000CL11D 2X4Gb
VGA: Nvidia GeForce GT430
HDD: SSD Crucial mx100 120Gb (OS), WD Caviar Green 500Gb, WD Caviar Blue 1Tb

The Case:



















Installation i've replaced the back fan with Bitfenix Spectre 120mm:























































Workstation:



















Thats all, but i'm workin on


----------



## NFL

I have the Evolv ITX and just bought an MSI Z97I AC.



Will I run into any issues fitting an H110i gtx with the board's I/O's being where they are?


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NFL*
> 
> I have the Evolv ITX and just bought an MSI Z97I AC.
> 
> 
> 
> Will I run into any issues fitting an H110i gtx with the board's I/O's being where they are?


I have a Swiftech H220-X currently and a Corsair h105 previously and I have had no clearance issues. The radiator mount is at the front edge of the case and there is quite a bit of clearance for the motherboard.


----------



## Faster_is_better

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JbstormburstADV*
> 
> How long is the inside edge of the Primo? I want to see if the NZXT Hue+ would be able to do a full circumference of the edge.


Hmm, Looks about 14.25"

Check this thread, open General Measurements and 7 pics down is where I got that.
Here is the pic actually:


----------



## Tamber

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NFL*
> 
> I have the Evolv ITX and just bought an MSI Z97I AC.
> 
> 
> 
> Will I run into any issues fitting an H110i gtx with the board's I/O's being where they are?


I think the only issue will be the USB 3.0 header. Mine is disconnected until I can find a low profile 90deg. adapter, my 280 rad is the culprit. If I was using a 240 it would be fine.


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tamber*
> 
> I think the only issue will be the USB 3.0 header. Mine is disconnected until I can find a low profile 90deg. adapter, my 280 rad is the culprit. If I was using a 240 it would be fine.


I didn't notice the usb 3.0 header location on that board, mine is much lower down. That might be a potential problem.


----------



## oz120

To be honest that's why I spent the extra $50 on the Luxe. It allows me to mount the push fan "outside" the case and then a "normal" rad will fit without causing clearance issues.


----------



## scottsorb

Thought I would stop by and post an updated pic of my beloved case.



Any tips on making the gpu and mobo power cables tidier?


----------



## michael-ocn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cozmo85*
> 
> How bad is front airflow impeded in the ATX Evolv by the front panel?


It's noticeable but also real easy to workaround if its a problem.

Even without wedging a spacer there, just popping the bottom plugs free and not snapping them in makes a nice difference. A spacer completely solves any problem.




The intakes on the top panel are even more restrictive, to avoid recirculating air inside the case, I sealed off the areas aft and immediately fore of the roof mounted rad. The rad is setup to 'intake' air. In practice, the air feeding the rad is drawn in thru the front panel up to the roof, then pushed down thru the rad.




I also sealed off the short vertical vents at the very top on the back of the case off so warm air is not drawn in thru them. That opening is by far the least restrictive area on the top panel (which might make sense for exhausting thru the rad but not so much for intaking).


Here's what I have in mind for a longer term solution.


----------



## Hequaqua

I ordered the Phanteks Enthoo Pro today.

I surfed through this thread for a while before really making up my mind. I got the windowed version, and I also picked up another of the HD trays that mount behind the MB tray. I ended up having to buy a new case because I ordered a 240mm AIO that won't mount in my 230t Graphite. (accidentally on purpose perhaps)









I think I'm going to be really happy with this case. It looks like it will make a nice clean build.


----------



## SupahSpankeh

Hrm.

I wanna replace that 600RPM 200mm front fan with 2x140mm EK Varders (1600 RPM). I'm betting the static pressure will really help shift air into the front compared to the 200mm fan, which appears to suck (lol right) at dealing with the filter and the facia.

However, the Vardars are 25mm, and the 200mm fan is 30mm thick. Any ideas for how to mount the 140mm fans flush to the filter? I figure I need some longer fan mounting screws and some sort of spacing mechanism.

Also, mounted my H100i in the top as exhaust, and I'm starting to wish I'd run it as intake. However, the slide in/out mounting frame and poor ventilation in the top mean that it'll suck at that unless I block the side gaps, and force it to pull air in from the top through the rad. Any ideas?


----------



## Faster_is_better

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SupahSpankeh*
> 
> Hrm.
> 
> I wanna replace that 600RPM 200mm front fan with 2x140mm EK Varders (1600 RPM). I'm betting the static pressure will really help shift air into the front compared to the 200mm fan, which appears to suck (lol right) at dealing with the filter and the facia.
> 
> However, the Vardars are 25mm, and the 200mm fan is 30mm thick. Any ideas for how to mount the 140mm fans flush to the filter? I figure I need some longer fan mounting screws and some sort of spacing mechanism.
> 
> Also, mounted my H100i in the top as exhaust, and I'm starting to wish I'd run it as intake. However, the slide in/out mounting frame and poor ventilation in the top mean that it'll suck at that unless I block the side gaps, and force it to pull air in from the top through the rad. Any ideas?


Look up 2 posts from yours, that may be a different case but there are some ideas on how to block gaps and force air in the top.

If the screws for your 200mm fan are threaded all the way, you may be able to just screw them in further to accommodate the slimmer fan. Actually didn't your case come with a little box of extra screws? There may be some with the correct length. Phanteks seems to do a pretty good job with the Primo at least, and includes a lot of extra screws with different lengths to move/add hardware.


----------



## SupahSpankeh

Hmm.

I'm having real issues with my GPU temps (R9 290) cauising my CPU to get hot.

I think the rad is OK as exhaust provided I can get a bit more cool air in there. Anyone replaced that front fan with anythign better yet? I'm thinking EK Vardars for their static pressure.

What material can one use to block the rest of the radiator mounting plate with? Bit short on ideas here.


----------



## SupahSpankeh

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Faster_is_better*
> 
> Look up 2 posts from yours, that may be a different case but there are some ideas on how to block gaps and force air in the top.
> 
> If the screws for your 200mm fan are threaded all the way, you may be able to just screw them in further to accommodate the slimmer fan. Actually didn't your case come with a little box of extra screws? There may be some with the correct length. Phanteks seems to do a pretty good job with the Primo at least, and includes a lot of extra screws with different lengths to move/add hardware.


Wonder what material to use for that.

Thinking about it, running it as intake with those tiny vents doesn't appeal - doubly so considering that it wouldn't have a filter.


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SupahSpankeh*
> 
> Wonder what material to use for that.
> 
> Thinking about it, running it as intake with those tiny vents doesn't appeal - doubly so considering that it wouldn't have a filter.


Not sure which case you have but on the Evolv-iTX there are separate fan mounts for the 200mm and 2 140mm. the 25mm thick fans mount with no problem.


----------



## smithydan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *michael-ocn*
> 
> It's noticeable but also real easy to workaround if its a problem.


interesting as I have not heard of any other complaints of air flow.


----------



## michael-ocn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SupahSpankeh*
> 
> Hmm.
> 
> I'm having real issues with my GPU temps (R9 290) cauising my CPU to get hot.
> 
> I think the rad is OK as exhaust provided I can get a bit more cool air in there. Anyone replaced that front fan with anythign better yet? I'm thinking EK Vardars for their static pressure.
> 
> What material can one use to block the rest of the radiator mounting plate with? Bit short on ideas here.


Which case do you have??
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SupahSpankeh*
> 
> Wonder what material to use for that.
> 
> Thinking about it, running it as intake with those tiny vents doesn't appeal - doubly so considering that it wouldn't have a filter.


I set my top mounted rad up as "intake" so it wouldn't be choking on the super heated exhaust of a 980ti.

The material i used to seal off gaps is black cardboard (specifically from an amazon kindle paperwhite box) held in place with twisty ties.

In my case (evolvATX), the air feeding the rad is actually coming in thru the front panel, nearly all the air going into the case is coming in thru the front. Cool air goes up to the roof thru the gap you see right above the 140 fan.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smithydan*
> 
> interesting as I have not heard of any other complaints of air flow.


The cpu and gpu are both somewhat overclocked and make some heat. With the front panel snapped shut, it just builds up over time. The combination of steps i took (sealing gaps and loosening the front panel) were very effective.


----------



## doyll

Has anyone measured the vent area on Evolv case fronts? My guess is their area with no mesh/grill is similar to other cases .. and no mesh/grill improves airlfow by 30-70% 29-71% depending on what the mesh/grill is .
http://www.overclock.net/t/1491876/ways-to-better-cooling-airflow-cooler-fan-data/0_20#post_22657923
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *michael-ocn*
> 
> Which case do you have??
> I set my top mounted rad up as "intake" so it wouldn't be choking on the super heated exhaust of a 980ti.
> 
> The material i used to seal off gaps is black cardboard (specifically from an amazon kindle paperwhite box) held in place with twisty ties.
> 
> In my case (evolvATX), the air feeding the rad is actually coming in thru the front panel, nearly all the air going into the case is coming in thru the front. Cool air goes up to the roof thru the gap you see right above the 140 fan.
> The cpu and gpu are both somewhat overclocked and make some heat. With the front panel snapped shut, it just builds up over time. The combination of steps i took (sealing gaps and loosening the front panel) were very effective.


Is there a bu9ild log for your Evolv build?


----------



## SupahSpankeh

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *michael-ocn*
> 
> Which case do you have??
> I set my top mounted rad up as "intake" so it wouldn't be choking on the super heated exhaust of a 980ti.
> 
> The material i used to seal off gaps is black cardboard (specifically from an amazon kindle paperwhite box) held in place with twisty ties.
> 
> In my case (evolvATX), the air feeding the rad is actually coming in thru the front panel, nearly all the air going into the case is coming in thru the front. Cool air goes up to the roof thru the gap you see right above the 140 fan.
> The cpu and gpu are both somewhat overclocked and make some heat. With the front panel snapped shut, it just builds up over time. The combination of steps i took (sealing gaps and loosening the front panel) were very effective.


Evolv ITX.

Black cardboard - stunningly obvious, but didn't occur to me. I don't think I want to run it as an intake without a filter, and a filter plus the top vents would be terrible.

Interesting thoughts though, thank you. Repped.


----------



## doyll

A rattle can of black spray paint and any color cardboard (single layer kind) becomes black cardboard quite easily.


----------



## michael-ocn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Is there a bu9ild log for your Evolv build?


There is, http://www.overclock.net/t/1573749/build-log-make-believe-build-2015, reminds me i need to update it with some new info!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SupahSpankeh*
> 
> Evolv ITX.
> 
> Black cardboard - stunningly obvious, but didn't occur to me. I don't think I want to run it as an intake without a filter, and a filter plus the top vents would be terrible.
> 
> Interesting thoughts though, thank you. Repped.


Hardly any air moves thru those top panel vents, you could seal them off, that would force absolutely all air to be brought in thru the filtered front panel.


----------



## SupahSpankeh

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *michael-ocn*
> 
> There is, http://www.overclock.net/t/1573749/build-log-make-believe-build-2015, reminds me i need to update it with some new info!
> Hardly any air moves thru those top panel vents, you could seal them off, that would force absolutely all air to be brought in thru the filtered front panel.


So you have the rad and fans as exhaust, and feed it with the 200mm?


----------



## Aislini

I just got shipment and case and some other components are here. Still waiting on gpu,screen and mbo.
So you don't think i will be able to fit 360 in enthoo pro with rampage V?
And just to add i found this


http://imgur.com/jsUQ6

 he fit 360 in evolv and that case is smaller then pro?


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aislini*
> 
> I just got shipment and case and some other components are here. Still waiting on gpu,screen and mbo.
> So you don't think i will be able to fit 360 in enthoo pro with rampage V?
> And just to add i found this
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/jsUQ6
> 
> he fit 360 in evolv and that case is smaller then pro?


While the EVOLV ATX is shorter, it uses an offset on the fan/rad mount that offsets it away from the MB. The Pro does not have that feature.


----------



## thaimonen

My case nearly ready. Led lights and back plate....


----------



## Aislini

But there is 4 cm difference between them offset or no shouldn't 360 fit in pro?
My rampage V still didn't come so i can't measure it myself.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aislini*
> 
> But there is 4 cm difference between them offset or no shouldn't 360 fit in pro?
> My rampage V still didn't come so i can't measure it myself.


You aren't grasping the difference. The EVOLV ATX mounts the radiator much further away from the MB, therefore there is no interference from MB components.

The Pro radiator mounting is much closer to the MB and overhangs the 4/8-pin connector and heatsinks on the MB. This allows for far less radiator depth.


----------



## Aislini

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> You aren't grasping the difference. The EVOLV ATX mounts the radiator much further away from the MB, therefore there is no interference from MB components.
> 
> The Pro radiator mounting is much closer to the MB and overhangs the 4/8-pin connector and heatsinks on the MB. This allows for far less radiator depth.


I know what you mean i though that with 4 cm difference it wouldn't be a problem. Is it possible to make new hols to offset it then mount rad?


----------



## Hequaqua

I'm waiting on my Enthoo Pro to get here. I had a quick question about the fan controller that is mounted on the chassis.

Can I power that hub with a fan controller that I have mounted in a 5.25 drive bay? I am powering it through a Molex.

I only plan to put possibly 3-4 fans max. I know I can set them in the bios via the motherboard. I would rather have control right here on the tower though.

Thanks


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aislini*
> 
> I know what you mean i though that with 4 cm difference it wouldn't be a problem. Is it possible to make new hols to offset it then mount rad?


man, this has been tried by several people. the cooler won't fit with most motherboards. if you have an Asus X99-A maybe you get a predator 360 in the roof. there's no point asking the same thing so many times like the answer will suddenly change. you wanna buy the case and cooler go ahead, just know what you're getting into and be happy with the choices you make. you can't offset the thing because of the "wall" that covers up the drive bays and supports the 5.25" bay. that thing is the reason the top mount on the Pro/Luxe?Primo isn't offset closer to the case door. there is less than 1cm of extra space so making new holes wouldn't even help. sorry.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hequaqua*
> 
> I'm waiting on my Enthoo Pro to get here. I had a quick question about the fan controller that is mounted on the chassis.
> 
> Can I power that hub with a fan controller that I have mounted in a 5.25 drive bay? I am powering it through a Molex.
> 
> I only plan to put possibly 3-4 fans max. I know I can set them in the bios via the motherboard. I would rather have control right here on the tower though.
> 
> Thanks


The HUB requires a PWM signal to control speed. It is not a simple voltage splitter. If your fan controller provides an actual PWM signal, you can do this.


----------



## Hequaqua

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> The HUB requires a PWM signal to control speed. It is not a simple voltage splitter. If your fan controller provides an actual PWM signal, you can do this.


I don't think it does.









Thanks.


----------



## michael-ocn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SupahSpankeh*
> 
> So you have the rad and fans as exhaust, and feed it with the 200mm?


Nope.

The roof mounted rad is setup as "intake". I put "intake" in quotes because the air being fed thru the rad actually comes from the front of the case. Heres a frankenpic of how air flows.



Virtually no air moves thru the tiny restrictive vents in the top panel. There's no real reason to seal them off but they could be.



I have sealed off the vents highlighted in yellow below to prevent unfiltered/warm air from being drawn into the case thru them.


----------



## Hequaqua

Woot!

Got my case. Got everything put back together. I just need to get my fans on the right headers, and tidy up a bit. I'm waiting on some more wire wraps to make the PCIe cables look a little cleaner. I think it looks really nice so far.

A few pics:


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hequaqua*
> 
> Woot!
> 
> Got my case. Got everything put back together. I just need to get my fans on the right headers, and tidy up a bit. I'm waiting on some more wire wraps to make the PCIe cables look a little cleaner. I think it looks really nice so far.
> 
> A few pics:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Looking good, temps good?


----------



## Hequaqua

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rfarmer*
> 
> Looking good, temps good?


Temps are looking really good. I have been folding for about an hour, highest temp was 58°. Oh the H60 and with all my fans it would hit 65-66°. I just have the two case fans running, and the two 120mm's on the Lepa. In the old case I had 4 120's 2 140's and 2 90mm for the GPU. I have not put the 90mm's back in yet. I'm not sure I really need to.

I have some more wire wraps coming for my cables. It will make those GPU cables look really nice. I still have to clean up the backside wiring, but other than me having a brainfart there at the end everything went fine. I didn't have any power....lol...messed with it for about 20 mins. I went back through all my connections. The last one I checked, which now should have been the first, I figured it out. I didn't have the 24-pin snapped in. LMAO


----------



## Mr0czny

anyone here using EK Predator 240 or 360 in Evolv ATX

IM thinking of buyng one (240 probably) and wondernig about vibration from pump to chassis ?

IN Cooltek W2 with corsair h110 it was terribe panel vibration from pump and i dont want to do it again.

Second question mounting position. in front as intake or top as exhaust ?

I have 970 strix on board


----------



## Edibrac

I have a Predator 240 in my Evolv mATX case. I have it set at low speeds most of the time but even at full speed, there are no vibrations from the case. There is an odd resonance somewhere between 30-40% that you can hear in other rooms, but that's it.


----------



## michael-ocn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr0czny*
> 
> anyone here using EK Predator 240 or 360 in Evolv ATX
> 
> IM thinking of buyng one (240 probably) and wondernig about vibration from pump to chassis ?
> 
> IN Cooltek W2 with corsair h110 it was terribe panel vibration from pump and i dont want to do it again.
> 
> Second question mounting position. in front as intake or top as exhaust ?
> 
> I have 970 strix on board


If you do get some vibration sounds, either tightening screws or using rubber washers/gaskets should take care of it.

Regarding front intake vs top exhaust, I went with neither. Four posts up from your post, in this thread, you can see a pic of the airflow and see my build log for more details.
http://www.overclock.net/t/1573749/build-log-make-believe-build-2015/30#post_24516838
http://www.overclock.net/t/1573749/build-log-make-believe-build-2015/40#post_24519285


----------



## Cozmo85

This evolv ATX is flippin awesome. Really glad i splurged on it.Need to hook up that last little drive on the back.


----------



## sav4

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cozmo85*
> 
> This evolv ATX is flippin awesome. Really glad i splurged on it.Need to hook up that last little drive on the back.


Nice neat build wish my cable management was that good.
?


----------



## Cozmo85

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sav4*
> 
> Nice neat build wish my cable management was that good.
> ?


It was really easy though the cable combs i printed helped. Also i was able to just take off the included pwm splitter and put my grid+ in the exact same spot, so didin't have to touch any of the factory fan cables.


----------



## KaffieneKing

Does anybody have any hands on experience with a Enthoo Mini XL, and know what 120mm rad mounts there are?

Might be getting a Enthoo Mini XL Dual System, when I move back from uni as it would be a good novelty and could use my G3258 in a file server connected to the main mATX rig, all water cooled of course


----------



## MythosVR4

First post but here goes.

I'm upgrading from an Antec P280 to an Enthoo Primo and will be expanding my loop in the process.

The XSPC EX240's, the EK RVE Monoblock, EK Revo 100, and the Scythe fans are all transplants.

The XT45, Enthoo Primo, and EK 980 TI FCB, are already at the house and I plan to begin Thursday.

If you could please look over my routing plan and provide any suggestions you might have, or if you think I left something out.

Just really getting a second opinion before I begin and can still order parts if need be.


----------



## Hequaqua

Well....I guess I'm about finished. I am still waiting on the rest of my wire wraps. I have re-worked the wiring twice, and I'm still not happy.









I love this case. I did have a issue with trying to mount my fan controller. The chassis wasn't long enough to catch on the quick latch. The latch was also blocking where I needed to put a screw. I emailed Phanteks. They told me how to remove the latch assembly. Installed and wired it today.

Here are few pics:
http://www.overclock.net/g/a/1450193/schwarzer-drache-black-dragon/


----------



## iRev_olution

Has anyone painted their Enthoo Primo Gunmetal grey?


----------



## xP_0nex

Anyone have any experience with the Enthoo Pro M? Reviews kept stating the panels are extremely flimsy, so wasn't sure...


----------



## Nebulous

Ordered the Primo yesterday. Should arrive by Tuesday along with some Bitfenix fans for my rad to replace my aging Yate Loons. Also ordered the NZXT LED Lighting strip to gave my new case a little bling








Haven't had a windowed case in years. This should be fun


----------



## Cozmo85

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xP_0nex*
> 
> Anyone have any experience with the Enthoo Pro M? Reviews kept stating the panels are extremely flimsy, so wasn't sure...


I have one coming tomorrow for a customer, ill let you know.


----------



## Kurrgen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xP_0nex*
> 
> Anyone have any experience with the Enthoo Pro M? Reviews kept stating the panels are extremely flimsy, so wasn't sure...




I am currently building in one and have removed and put side panels back on many many times already. They are a little thin but have had no issues with them so far; and not like they are paper thin or anything. It has been very easy, overall, to work with and thought it looked pretty cool when it first came out. So far, I have been very pleased with the Pro M.


----------



## Faster_is_better

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MythosVR4*
> 
> First post but here goes.
> 
> I'm upgrading from an Antec P280 to an Enthoo Primo and will be expanding my loop in the process.
> 
> The XSPC EX240's, the EK RVE Monoblock, EK Revo 100, and the Scythe fans are all transplants.
> 
> The XT45, Enthoo Primo, and EK 980 TI FCB, are already at the house and I plan to begin Thursday.
> 
> If you could please look over my routing plan and provide any suggestions you might have, or if you think I left something out.
> 
> Just really getting a second opinion before I begin and can still order parts if need be.


Looks alright, you could go from GPU to pump and pump to bottom rad, bottom rad to front rad also, another option anyway.. I think runs would be a bit shorter that way.


----------



## Limuel

Hello. do we have someone from Phanteks here as a representative? I'm here in the Philippines.
I bought my Phanteks Enthoo Pro and got some issues with it

So I've sent an email dated Oct 23, 2015.

I emailed
[email protected]
[email protected]
[email protected]

and chat them in Facebook

and after almost 2 months. I still don't have any reply from them.

I thought they have an awesome after sales service? what happened?

Problems with my case(Phanteks Enthoo Pro):

led light doesnt stay, it just blink once.
200mm and 140mm not working (yes they're inserted correctly)
side panels both got scratches the window and the other side.

the case itself got some dents but it's tolerable. (for me, as I don't want to ship the whole case to them)


----------



## Akhenaton

Hi guys, can the Enthoo Pro/Luxe be sustained without the bulkhead covering the hdd/drive slot?


----------



## oz120

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Akhenaton*
> 
> Hi guys, can the Enthoo Pro/Luxe be sustained without the bulkhead covering the hdd/drive slot?


Yes the bulkhead you are talking about can be removed along with the optical drive bays. This will allow you to still run the HDD cages it will however allow the HDD cages to be visable through the small window if you have the windowed version of the case. Also you will have to be careful how far you push the HDD cages due to them using that bulkhead as a stopping point.


----------



## Akhenaton

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *oz120*
> 
> Yes the bulkhead you are talking about can be removed along with the optical drive bays. This will allow you to still run the HDD cages it will however allow the HDD cages to be visable through the small window if you have the windowed version of the case. Also you will have to be careful how far you push the HDD cages due to them using that bulkhead as a stopping point.


Thank you!
I'm thinking of removing everything in order to add a third radiator, in front of the case


----------



## MythosVR4

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Faster_is_better*
> 
> Looks alright, you could go from GPU to pump and pump to bottom rad, bottom rad to front rad also, another option anyway.. I think runs would be a bit shorter that way.


I actually almost had to go this route. I forgot about my 960 mini and it was too, close to the pump.

I had to mount the pump horizontally next to the PSU since I wanted to keep the bottom HDD cage.

It ended up gpu>bottom rad>front rad>pump/res>mono block>top rad

The issue with this configuration is filling and bleeding takes forever due to the pump/res combo and getting air out of the attached res. My fix is a second res that will feed the pump and keep the chamber filled. It will hopefully arrive Monday.

It will end up looking like res>pump/res>mono block>top rad>gpu>bottom rad>front rad

Overall I'm happy, she's quieter and I got 4 degrees cooler water temps even with the added heat from the 980 Ti.

Rig currently weighs in at 73.4 lbs.


----------



## Sillence

Hi, i'm about to buy a Phanteks Enthoo Primo but i was woundering about how big reservoir i can get, my graphics card is 269mm (10.59 inches) long and it's 277mm (10.91 inches) to the reservoir bracket but i guess that the reservoir will stick out a little bit from it. If anyone is using a pretty long graphics card and a tube reservoir could you please measure what max diameter i could use? Thanks in advance.

Sorry for bad english, it's not my main language


----------



## Fantomau

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sillence*
> 
> Hi, i'm about to buy a Phanteks Enthoo Primo but i was woundering about how big reservoir i can get, my graphics card is 269mm (10.59 inches) long and it's 277mm (10.91 inches) to the reservoir bracket but i guess that the reservoir will stick out a little bit from it. If anyone is using a pretty long graphics card and a tube reservoir could you please measure what max diameter i could use? Thanks in advance.
> 
> Sorry for bad english, it's not my main language


i think you can put a 250mm-300mm? i think 60-80mm diameter


----------



## Sillence

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fantomau*
> 
> i think you can put a 250mm-300mm? i think 60-80mm diameter


Okey thanks, i was only woundering about the diameter and i would really like if someone could 100% tell me what diameter i can have.


----------



## Fantomau

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sillence*
> 
> Okey thanks, i was only woundering about the diameter and i would really like if someone could 100% tell me what diameter i can have.


i do believe 60mm


----------



## contay

Hello everyone! Tried to search this thread but I didn't found. Also, phanteks doesn't make it clear anywhere. So, I am going to buy Enthoo Mini XL. Either DS or seperately upgrade kit and second hand case. However, I have Corsair AX1200i, which is 200mm long. Does it fit without problems? It is very weird max psu lenght isnt anywhere, not even in case manual.


----------



## KaffieneKing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *contay*
> 
> Hello everyone! Tried to search this thread but I didn't found. Also, phanteks doesn't make it clear anywhere. So, I am going to buy Enthoo Mini XL. Either DS or seperately upgrade kit and second hand case. However, I have Corsair AX1200i, which is 200mm long. Does it fit without problems? It is very weird max psu lenght isnt anywhere, not even in case manual.


I asked a question regarding this case a few pages ago, I don't think there are any owners here.


----------



## contay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaffieneKing*
> 
> I asked a question regarding this case a few pages ago, I don't think there are any owners here.


Ah so it seems. My bad then. I sent question directly to Phanteks customer service. I'll report here then.


----------



## Fantomau

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *contay*
> 
> Ah so it seems. My bad then. I sent question directly to Phanteks customer service. I'll report here then.


why not get a luxe? the 1200i will fit its also cheaper and love mine


----------



## contay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fantomau*
> 
> why not get a luxe? the 1200i will fit its also cheaper and love mine


Because I have two rigs, one on Impact (ITX) and other soon to be mATX sized.


----------



## doyll

Fantomau Was wondering myself.
@contay Good reason,.









I, on the other hand would love to see a Mini XL to ATX accessory package.

Something like this


----------



## PureBlackFire

^ that'd be a little pointless as it would become an shorter, but wider Enthoo Pro/Luxe. still waiting on that Evolv XL though.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PureBlackFire*
> 
> ^ that'd be a little pointless as it would become an shorter, but wider Enthoo Pro/Luxe. still waiting on that Evolv XL though.


Which is exactly the point!








I have room for added with but am limited by height.








I love the case design, but it needs a ATX motherboard tray and back panel.


----------



## Cozmo85

Anyone else with an Evolv ATX tried moving their intake fans to the other side of the fan mount so there is an inch or so spacing between the fan and the filter, Seems to really help airflow.


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cozmo85*
> 
> Anyone else with an Evolv ATX tried moving their intake fans to the other side of the fan mount so there is an inch or so spacing between the fan and the filter, Seems to really help airflow.


I wanted to try that when I had one in my hands, but time wouldn't allow.


----------



## Cozmo85

edit: i think overall temps may be worse, I think its recirculating too much air.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cozmo85*
> 
> edit: i think overall temps may be worse, I think its recirculating too much air.


Of like mind here. :thumb
Intake fans need a pretty much a sealed layer between their intake and exhaust sides to do their job propberly.


----------



## Terminus14

Hey all. Thought I'd drop by and share some pictures of my rig to show some love for Phanteks' first case.

I'm incredibly late to the party for doing so considering I built the thing back when the Enthoo Primo first came out. So early that I think I was actually one of the first 10 or so people on OCN to own the thing. But hey, better late than never, right?

This was my first computer build ever and it was an amazing experience. I attribute the relative lack of frustrations and general smooth sailing of the whole ordeal largely to the Enthoo Primo and how spacious and well laid out everything was. Anyway, without further ado!


----------



## iRev_olution

Hey guys,

Proud owner of a phantek's case myself!

I'm currently in a build... Check it out and tell me what you think!

http://www.overclock.net/t/1583520/build-log-project-y-gear-intel-4790k-5ghz-gtx-980-liquid-cooled


----------



## contay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaffieneKing*
> 
> I asked a question regarding this case a few pages ago, I don't think there are any owners here.


I found someone with mini xl. 290mm psu clearance so basically ANY atx psu will fit.


----------



## KaffieneKing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *contay*
> 
> I found someone with mini xl. 290mm psu clearance so basically ANY atx psu will fit.


Good the more owners the better, I might just buy the XL DS and measure up the rad space myself


----------



## Faster_is_better

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MythosVR4*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Faster_is_better*
> 
> Looks alright, you could go from GPU to pump and pump to bottom rad, bottom rad to front rad also, another option anyway.. I think runs would be a bit shorter that way.
> 
> 
> 
> I actually almost had to go this route. I forgot about my 960 mini and it was too, close to the pump.
> 
> I had to mount the pump horizontally next to the PSU since I wanted to keep the bottom HDD cage.
> 
> It ended up gpu>bottom rad>front rad>pump/res>mono block>top rad
> 
> The issue with this configuration is filling and bleeding takes forever due to the pump/res combo and getting air out of the attached res. My fix is a second res that will feed the pump and keep the chamber filled. It will hopefully arrive Monday.
> 
> It will end up looking like res>pump/res>mono block>top rad>gpu>bottom rad>front rad
> 
> Overall I'm happy, she's quieter and I got 4 degrees cooler water temps even with the added heat from the 980 Ti.
> 
> Rig currently weighs in at 73.4 lbs.
Click to expand...

Have any pics?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sillence*
> 
> Hi, i'm about to buy a Phanteks Enthoo Primo but i was woundering about how big reservoir i can get, my graphics card is 269mm (10.59 inches) long and it's 277mm (10.91 inches) to the reservoir bracket but i guess that the reservoir will stick out a little bit from it. If anyone is using a pretty long graphics card and a tube reservoir could you please measure what max diameter i could use? Thanks in advance.
> 
> Sorry for bad english, it's not my main language


Look at the Phanteks Primo Measurement Resource, should have all the info you need. There are measurement notes in the top of the post regarding GPU, and also check General Measurements spoiler, for lots of images, including reservoir fitment. I fit a 65mm diameter reservoir with my 10.5" cards.


----------



## Cloudraker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sillence*
> 
> Hi, i'm about to buy a Phanteks Enthoo Primo but i was woundering about how big reservoir i can get, my graphics card is 269mm (10.59 inches) long and it's 277mm (10.91 inches) to the reservoir bracket but i guess that the reservoir will stick out a little bit from it. If anyone is using a pretty long graphics card and a tube reservoir could you please measure what max diameter i could use? Thanks in advance.
> 
> Sorry for bad english, it's not my main language


Well, i have a 200mm long res, and while the res is 60mm, the actual diameter at the tension rods is closer to 70mm. However i was able to buy myself a little more room by using this 50mm long mounts that Monsoon offers.

BTW this is with SLI 980Tis and there is a little extra room for clearance. Now, had i went with shorter mounts there would be interference.




Sorry for the mess in the images, this is obviously still in the process of being finished, i have little time during the week to work on it. That being said, obviously, filling the res is going to be difficult because of clearance but i have that worked out. Given the chance to redo this process i would have went with a 150mm tall res just to give myself a little more room. Again though, if you have a way to bring the res off of the back wall a bit, you can squeeze in a little larger diameter.


----------



## JbstormburstADV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cloudraker*
> 
> Well, i have a 200mm long res, and while the res is 60mm, the actual diameter at the tension rods is closer to 70mm. However i was able to buy myself a little more room by using this 50mm long mounts that Monsoon offers.
> 
> BTW this is with SLI 980Tis and there is a little extra room for clearance. Now, had i went with shorter mounts there would be interference.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Pictures
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry for the mess in the images, this is obviously still in the process of being finished, i have little time during the week to work on it. That being said, obviously, filling the res is going to be difficult because of clearance but i have that worked out. Given the chance to redo this process i would have went with a 150mm tall res just to give myself a little more room. Again though, if you have a way to bring the res off of the back wall a bit, you can squeeze in a little larger diameter.


Ooh, you do not know how much seeing this build helps me figure out the particulars of my build, since I'm also going with a Monsoon MMRS. Did you have to drill new holes in order to get the mounts to seat in the reservoir bracket? If so, do you have measurements as to where you drilled? Is there any other information I need to know?


----------



## Cloudraker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JbstormburstADV*
> 
> Ooh, you do not know how much seeing this build helps me figure out the particulars of my build, since I'm also going with a Monsoon MMRS. Did you have to drill new holes in order to get the mounts to seat in the reservoir bracket? If so, do you have measurements as to where you drilled? Is there any other information I need to know?


I did not make any measurements so sadly, i have none to give. The whole process wasn't too terrible. I simply put my cards in, laid the case flat and put the res in where i wanted it. I used a pencil to trace around the mounts as much as i could but clearly couldn't get all the way around. Then i removed the bracket from the case and the mount from the res and finished tracing and marked my holes. NOW, i did go ahead and drill the holes out to 1/4" so that i had some wiggle room to adjust the res. Given the way the brackets on the MMRS work, having the holes oversized doesn't hurt anything as the brackets cover the holes.

The biggest thing you need to know is that having your radiators in place when you do this is way more important than i realized, especially if you are doing push/pull on them. I didn't have my upper radiator in place as that makes removing the bracket impossible, and that's why i didn't realize there was going to be a clearance issue for filling. Luckily I have a brand new small aquarium lifter pump that I'm going to use to pump my fluid in, so i don't need the clearance.


----------



## PureBlackFire

*Pro M acrylic edition*





need a new front dust filter like the style on the EVolv ATX, but looks pretty nice. I like that it comes with a front intake fan.


----------



## koniu777

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PureBlackFire*
> 
> *Pro M acrylic edition*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> need a new front dust filter like the style on the EVolv ATX, but looks pretty nice. I like that it comes with a front intake fan.


I love it, but I also think the acrylic should be gray.

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk


----------



## bozy12

oh dear i can not decide between the primo black and primo SE black/white.
there are literally no videos/pictures out there of the SE black/white edition. maybe an owner of this beauty could share a couple of pictures from the black/white SE edtion







?


----------



## By-Tor

May be a few here...

https://www.google.com/search?q=enthoo+primo+se&biw=1526&bih=920&tbm=isch&tbo=u&source=univ&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwiM0tiilN_JAhUB8CYKHYqyAAgQsAQIMw


----------



## majik73

Hi all! I have the Phantek Entho Primo case and I'm going with a orange and black color scheme. Now the problem that I have is the fan as a strange connector (I know that Phantek makes orange fans with this connector but I'm working on a very tight budget to finish this build up which is being used up with the remaining fittings and stuff)

So my question is does anyone know what size the leds are so I can DiY and just buy them and resolder them myself (it seems pretty easy to just melt the old solder and and just resolder the new leds on) or a different fan that has the same connection that isn't to expensive (they need to be 140mm).


----------



## NFL

Not impressed with the stock 200mm fan on my ITX, looking to swap it out for a pair of 140mm...any recommendations?


----------



## thaimonen

My phanteks enthoo evolv ATX


----------



## Russmaf

Hi everyone knenw to this forum and new owner to a enthoo luxe and I'm loving every bit of it. I am building a new system in it and have a few ideas to my water cooling setup and need some help before I go out spending money and ruining something. So my idea is that I want to build a custom loop using a swiftech h140-x as a starting point then putting a 420mm rad up top. Now my question if anyone knows the answer is will the rad interfere on the rear if I have a mobo that has a shroud like the Asus pro or asrock extreme as I would like to keep the shroud for asthetic purposes.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Russmaf*
> 
> Hi everyone knenw to this forum and new owner to a enthoo luxe and I'm loving every bit of it. I am building a new system in it and have a few ideas to my water cooling setup and need some help before I go out spending money and ruining something. So my idea is that I want to build a custom loop using a swiftech h140-x as a starting point then putting a 420mm rad up top. Now my question if anyone knows the answer is will the rad interfere on the rear if I have a mobo that has a shroud like the Asus pro or asrock extreme as I would like to keep the shroud for asthetic purposes.


The H140-X in the back will not have any issues with the shroud.

However, getting the H140-X in the rear and a 420mm up top may be a challenge....or an impossibility. I haven't tried it myself.

The big wildcard here is going to be which 420mm you are talking about. You have 65mm in height tow work with from the top of the case to the MB.


----------



## Russmaf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> The H140-X in the back will not have any issues with the shroud.
> 
> However, getting the H140-X in the rear and a 420mm up top may be a challenge....or an impossibility. I haven't tried it myself.
> 
> The big wildcard here is going to be which 420mm you are talking about. You have 65mm in height tow work with from the top of the case to the MB.


Well I will be putting the fans on the outside portion of the case so a 30mm thick rad shouldn't be a problem only problem would be proper tube routing which will just be a difficulty not impossible. So I think if there is no problem with the shroud that I should be just fine


----------



## oz120

I plan to use a HUGE rad in the top of mine along with a 240 in the front and bottom and possibly a 140 in the rear. This will be taking place once I do the x99 build with 3-4way GPUs. Right now I am saving money to pick up parts.


----------



## Russmaf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *oz120*
> 
> I plan to use a HUGE rad in the top of mine along with a 240 in the front and bottom and possibly a 140 in the rear. This will be taking place once I do the x99 build with 3-4way GPUs. Right now I am saving money to pick up parts.


280
That sounds like an amazing amount of cooling and almost necessary for all that gpu power and I wanted to put a 280 in the front but wont fit and I need the cages so that just wont work


----------



## sav4

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *majik73*
> 
> Hi all! I have the Phantek Entho Primo case and I'm going with a orange and black color scheme. Now the problem that I have is the fan as a strange connector (I know that Phantek makes orange fans with this connector but I'm working on a very tight budget to finish this build up which is being used up with the remaining fittings and stuff)
> 
> So my question is does anyone know what size the leds are so I can DiY and just buy them and resolder them myself (it seems pretty easy to just melt the old solder and and just resolder the new leds on) or a different fan that has the same connection that isn't to expensive (they need to be 140mm).


Could you get those rubber led covers to change the colour of them ?
Edit something like this
http://www.colourcover.com


----------



## majik73

I could. Where can you buy them from? The website that you linked just has a product list but it doesnt look like you can buy them from them.


----------



## sav4

Most electronic places have them even automotive shops have them for dashes .
Where are you located ?


----------



## majik73

Milwaukee WI area


----------



## owcraftsman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cloudraker*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Sillence*
> 
> Hi, i'm about to buy a Phanteks Enthoo Primo but i was woundering about how big reservoir i can get, my graphics card is 269mm (10.59 inches) long and it's 277mm (10.91 inches) to the reservoir bracket but i guess that the reservoir will stick out a little bit from it. If anyone is using a pretty long graphics card and a tube reservoir could you please measure what max diameter i could use? Thanks in advance.
> 
> Sorry for bad english, it's not my main language
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well, i have a 200mm long res, and while the res is 60mm, the actual diameter at the tension rods is closer to 70mm. However i was able to buy myself a little more room by using this 50mm long mounts that Monsoon offers.
> 
> BTW this is with SLI 980Tis and there is a little extra room for clearance. Now, had i went with shorter mounts there would be interference.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry for the mess in the images, this is obviously still in the process of being finished, i have little time during the week to work on it. That being said, obviously, filling the res is going to be difficult because of clearance but i have that worked out. Given the chance to redo this process i would have went with a 150mm tall res just to give myself a little more room. Again though, if you have a way to bring the res off of the back wall a bit, you can squeeze in a little larger diameter.
Click to expand...

Love what you've done so far and the choices you've made. The black and white contrast is looking real good. Also nice to see the monsoon stuff in use They deserve our patronage and there stuff is a modders dream come true. Its not often we buy stuff the way we want it, more often we buy stuff and mod to make it fit. Kudos to Monsoon.

Regarding loop, you mentioned hard to fill and having a pump to fill it. Been there done that and it can be very messy when it spits back at you. I'm not sure what top you got for that reservoir but I'd recommend > bottom rad to Bottom GPU in > bottom GPU out to top Gpu In > Top GPU out to Cpu in > CPu out to top rad in > Top rad out to top res in > Bottom res out to pump in. I know it will be a tight fit but it does look doable based on what I see in your pics. With Alphacool rads and there 7 ports you can fill from the top caps with your loop in tact. Once rad is full it will seek the lowest point It will drop into res cpu and GPU from there without much effort. Air will be trapped unless you attach a drain hose the the drain port of the bottom rad and raise it higher than the top rad while it's open giving the air a place to go the laws of physics are your best friend with any loop. If done properly I'd doubt you have to add more than 2 to 4 oz to top it off after turning on the pump to leak test and vanquish any other air pockets. Just make sure you cap everything off before you turn on the pump for the first time and open, while running pump, the top cap of your rad's drain side to top it off.


----------



## Cloudraker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *owcraftsman*
> 
> Love what you've done so far and the choices you've made. The black and white contrast is looking real good. Also nice to see the monsoon stuff in use They deserve our patronage and there stuff is a modders dream come true. Its not often we buy stuff the way we want it, more often we buy stuff and mod to make it fit. Kudos to Monsoon.
> Regarding loop, you mentioned hard to fill and having a pump to fill it. Been there done that and it can be very messy when it spits back at you. I'm not sure what top you got for that reservoir but I'd recommend > bottom rad to Bottom GPU in > bottom GPU out to top Gpu In > Top GPU out to Cpu in > CPu out to top rad in > Top rad out to top res in > Bottom res out to pump in. I know it will be a tight fit but it does look doable based on what I see in your pics. With Alphacool rads and there 7 ports you can fill from the top caps with your loop in tact. Once rad is full it will seek the lowest point It will drop into res cpu and GPU from there without much effort. Air will be trapped unless you attach a drain hose the the drain port of the bottom rad and raise it higher than the top rad while it's open giving the air a place to go the laws of physics are your best friend with any loop. If done properly I'd doubt you have to add more than 2 to 4 oz to top it off after turning on the pump to leak test and vanquish any other air pockets. Just make sure you cap everything off before you turn on the pump for the first time and open, while running pump, the top cap of your rad's drain side to top it off.


First of all thank you for kind words and for your pointers. I will be posting plenty of pics once its all done, which will hopefully be tomorrow. I've been building systems for a long time but never quite been able to push myself to water cooling. That being said, this is an experience that i both love and hate at the same time. Luckily, most of the hard stuff i haven't had to do myself. I have a good close friend who is an electrician and quite honestly just damn good at almost anything he decides to do, but his experience as an electrician has taught him the finer points of measuring to make bends in conduit and have things go right where you want them. This is just a much smaller scale. That being said he had a baby last week so thats been taking most of his time. I guess i should have started the build a week earlier!

Anyways, what ive learned to hate is that it doesnt matter how well you think you've planned, its pretty much a guarantee its going to change. I'm just glad i purchased 4 times more tubing than i initially anticipated needing. It seems that every time we think we've figured out the best course, something small smacks us across the face. Just now for example i was going to post a couple of photos of the bends we made last night, but then i realized that while it looks good, it actually has cause the flow to run the wrong way through the CPU block. From what I understand, in most blocks it wouldnt matter but with the CPU it does, and im not willing to chance it.

I'm glad you like the color scheme, as its something that really drew me to doing this build. I am however slightly disappointed as I wanted to try and cover up the red on the board but determined that most methods were either too risky, or too cheap looking and still wouldnt cover everything. I was going to try and vinyl wrap the SATA ports and a few other things in royal purple and go with a pastel purple fluid but instead i will be going with pastel red. Since the red is more of an accent, I'm truly hoping it doesnt look gaudy.


----------



## owcraftsman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cloudraker*
> 
> Quote:
> First of all thank you for kind words and for your pointers. I will be posting plenty of pics once its all done, which will hopefully be tomorrow. I've been building systems for a long time but never quite been able to push myself to water cooling. That being said, this is an experience that i both love and hate at the same time. Luckily, most of the hard stuff i haven't had to do myself. I have a good close friend who is an electrician and quite honestly just damn good at almost anything he decides to do, but his experience as an electrician has taught him the finer points of measuring to make bends in conduit and have things go right where you want them. This is just a much smaller scale. That being said he had a baby last week so thats been taking most of his time. I guess i should have started the build a week earlier!
> 
> Anyways, what ive learned to hate is that it doesnt matter how well you think you've planned, its pretty much a guarantee its going to change. I'm just glad i purchased 4 times more tubing than i initially anticipated needing. It seems that every time we think we've figured out the best course, something small smacks us across the face. Just now for example i was going to post a couple of photos of the bends we made last night, but then i realized that while it looks good, it actually has cause the flow to run the wrong way through the CPU block. From what I understand, in most blocks it wouldnt matter but with the CPU it does, and im not willing to chance it.
> 
> I'm glad you like the color scheme, as its something that really drew me to doing this build. I am however slightly disappointed as I wanted to try and cover up the red on the board but determined that most methods were either too risky, or too cheap looking and still wouldnt cover everything. I was going to try and vinyl wrap the SATA ports and a few other things in royal purple and go with a pastel purple fluid but instead i will be going with pastel red. Since the red is more of an accent, I'm truly hoping it doesnt look gaudy.


The joy of water cooling is the end result getting there is a never ending process of swapping in upgrades, tweaking, tuning and maintenance. The best plans are those that make all of that simple as can be. What drives folks back to air is a frustrating complicated hard to manage build. What some fail to realize is a loop can last for many a build while remaining static in a case. Taking into consideration what is static and what is likely to change is thought well advised. Rads, Res, cpu block, pump drain and fill ports are all static only the CPU Block is partially not and gpu blocks for sure not, because their positions may change dramatically from build to build. Getting those static things in a position that doesn't interfere with future builds is a smart approach and make it fill and drain easily should be paramount. In any case best of luck with your build happy holidays and you've come to the right place for help. Lots of friendly knowledgeable helpers here.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *owcraftsman*
> 
> The joy of water cooling is the end result getting there is a never ending process of swapping in upgrades, tweaking, tuning and maintenance. The best plans are those that make all of that simple as can be. What drives folks back to air is a frustrating complicated hard to manage build. What some fail to realize is a loop can last for many a build while remaining static in a case. Taking into consideration what is static and what is likely to change is thought well advised. Rads, Res, cpu block, pump drain and fill ports are all static only the CPU Block is partially not and gpu blocks for sure not, because their positions may change dramatically from build to build. Getting those static things in a position that doesn't interfere with future builds is a smart approach and make it fill and drain easily should be paramount. In any case best of luck with your build happy holidays and you've come to the right place for help. Lots of friendly knowledgeable helpers here.


yeah for instance I decided to get the enthoo primo and checked it out yesterday 219 with 20 dollar mail in rebate...today 239 no rebate...what a difference a day makes


----------



## cainy1991

Hey all!

Been struggling with making the decision on a new case for about a week now and with pay day coming up tomorrow I just want to check one more option out, and I figured someone in this thread may be able to help.

I'm looking at the Enthoo Pro M, its a spectacular looking case and has all the features I want apart from one.... HANDLES!

I'm wondering if anyone could hook me up with a couple of pictures of the inside of the case top panel at both front and back?

By the looks of it, it would be pretty easy to mount a couple handles to the case one at either end, I'm planning on putting a 3-4mm thick piece of aluminum bar stock under where I mount the handles to make the rivets wont just tear out of the top, I just want to make sure I'm not going to mess with the slide out rad mounting system. or power button in doing so.

Its either this or go the mastercase 5 which is twice the price(here in Aus) and has less cooling potential.

If someone who owns this case could help me out it would be much appreciated!


----------



## Vesimas

Quick question, on the side bracket of the Enthoo Primo, can i put an Alphacool XT45 240 (push/pull) without compromising the use of the pump bracket or i have to use an ST30 240?


----------



## Cloudraker

OK, so my loop is done (for the most part)! Only have 2 issues, the first being i clearly need more red dye! I thought 2 bottles of dye would be enough and clearly i was mistaken. I'll be ordering another 4 bottles tonight to hopefully make sure i have enough.

My other issue is that i have a constant sound of air in the pump yet im not getting any bubbles anywhere. It sounds like there is a bunch of cavitation going on without any visible signs of it, temps are good however so im hoping its just air trapped that will work its way out.

Please no jokes about how its pink!


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cloudraker*
> 
> OK, so my loop is done (for the most part)! Only have 2 issues, the first being i clearly need more red dye! I thought 2 bottles of dye would be enough and clearly i was mistaken. I'll be ordering another 4 bottles tonight to hopefully make sure i have enough.
> 
> My other issue is that i have a constant sound of air in the pump yet im not getting any bubbles anywhere. It sounds like there is a bunch of cavitation going on without any visible signs of it, temps are good however so im hoping its just air trapped that will work its way out.
> 
> Please no jokes about how its pink!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


And I had one already about it being your girlfriends computer.









Looking good, sure it will be great when you get the rest of the dye.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cloudraker*
> 
> OK, so my loop is done (for the most part)! Only have 2 issues, the first being i clearly need more red dye! I thought 2 bottles of dye would be enough and clearly i was mistaken. I'll be ordering another 4 bottles tonight to hopefully make sure i have enough.
> 
> My other issue is that i have a constant sound of air in the pump yet im not getting any bubbles anywhere. It sounds like there is a bunch of cavitation going on without any visible signs of it, temps are good however so im hoping its just air trapped that will work its way out.
> 
> Please no jokes about how its pink!


try one out two drops of dish soap (bleach free ofc) that can help stubborn micro bubbles quiet down in the pump...the pink doesn't look that bad either


----------



## MythosVR4

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Faster_is_better*
> 
> Have any pics?




Extra iTrap Res installed between front rad and pump.


Revo XRES almost full now


Bleeding was much easier.


----------



## Faster_is_better

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vesimas*
> 
> Quick question, on the side bracket of the Enthoo Primo, can i put an Alphacool XT45 240 (push/pull) without compromising the use of the pump bracket or i have to use an ST30 240?


The pump bracket can be moved into 3 positions IIRC, and I think all of them actually will work with the side radiator in place. Your only issue may be how you plumb up the tubing since a P/P rad there may not leave much room to bring any tubing around it from the side (if that matters).

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MythosVR4*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Faster_is_better*
> 
> Have any pics?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Extra iTrap Res installed between front rad and pump.
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Revo XRES almost full now
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bleeding was much easier.
Click to expand...

Nice, any other pics of that iTrap res? Never heard of it before.


----------



## hernan86

My Evolv ITX S2


----------



## rfarmer

Very nice, more pics needed.


----------



## MoonScryer

Here is mine in an Enthoo Luxe in no particular order. i7-3770k @ 4.8ghz; mostly EKWB parts. 5.0 just was too much voltage for my long-term liking.

Videocard will be on the water next year when I choose something else; just didn't feel like wasting the money for something I will replace. Cable management is on-going.


----------



## jaymz60

Well I pulled the trigger on a Luxe. Getting ready for modding . I wanted to know if someone would be as so kind to give me the window
dimensions. need to get some glass Thanks .


----------



## Aislini

Well you were wrong when you said that i won't be able to fit 360 predator in enthoo pro.It can fit i know because i mounted it on top of my case with Rampage 5. It was tight fit,but there is no stress to the board or pin connectors.
So if anyone have enthoo pro case and have rampage 5 and would like to put there 360 predator in there.You can fit it on top of your case.


----------



## Cloudraker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aislini*
> 
> Well you were wrong when you said that i won't be able to fit 360 predator in enthoo pro.It can fit i know because i mounted it on top of my case with Rampage 5. It was tight fit,but there is no stress to the board or pin connectors.
> So if anyone have enthoo pro case and have rampage 5 and would like to put there 360 predator in there.You can fit it on top of your case.


I'm not trying to be abrasive but most people typically consider "fitting in" to mean inside the case. I'm sure that if when you initially asked you hadn't made it sound as though inside is where you wanted it, you may have received a different answer. When you are willing to mount things externally it opens up a whole plethora of options you wouldn't have had prior. I'm glad you were able to come up with a suitable solutuon, however.
Of course I may be misinterpreting what your saying and I'm not familiar with the case. Do you mean you mounted it up top inside? If so that may be news that makes a bunch of people happy.


----------



## majik73

I just want to post some pics of my first watercooling build (Phantek Enthoo Primo case). I custom painted the backplate of the video card with Rustoleum High Temp paint.

This is how I finally decided on doing my drainage port

The dual D5 pumps and reservoir was mounted on the back side of where the "phantek" plaque is


My Rig setup is as follows:

Asus Rampage IV Black Edition
Kingston HyperX Beast 2133mhz 64gb kit
Intel 4820k
EVGA GeForce GTX TITAN X
Samsung 850 Pro 512gb SSD
Monsoon Fittings (straight, 5x 45 degree, 2x 90 degrees)
PrimoFlex Advanced LRT (UV Orange)
XSPC 480 radiator
XSPC 360 radiator
2x EK D5 Dual Top


----------



## blurp

Nice job majik73. Ordered that case yesterday. Can't wait to play with it!


----------



## pcrevolution

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hernan86*
> 
> My Evolv ITX S2


Quick question for the Evolv ITX owners out there:

Is it possible to install a front 240mm radiator with the barbs at the bottom?

Do you think its possible to have a 240mm radiator at the top (with barbs at the rear) and a 240mm at the front (with barbs at the bottom), radiators being 30mm thickness or less with a single set of fans for each in push?

Thanks for your help!


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pcrevolution*
> 
> Quick question for the Evolv ITX owners out there:
> 
> Is it possible to install a front 240mm radiator with the barbs at the bottom?
> 
> Do you think its possible to have a 240mm radiator at the top (with barbs at the rear) and a 240mm at the front (with barbs at the bottom), radiators being 30mm thickness or less with a single set of fans for each in push?
> 
> Thanks for your help!


I have seen 3 builds with the Evolv ITX with twin 240mm raditators, all 3 had the top rad with barbs at the back and front rad with barbs at the top. There is no reason you couldn't put the barbs at the bottom of the front rad, you would need to remove the drive cage, but you will need to do that anyway.


----------



## pcrevolution

Are you able to point me to some of the photos please? I've been searching but I couldn't find any.

Also, won't having the barbs at the top for the front rad run into issues with the fans of the top rad?


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pcrevolution*
> 
> Are you able to point me to some of the photos please? I've been searching but I couldn't find any.
> 
> Also, won't having the barbs at the top for the front rad run into issues with the fans of the top rad?








The first build doesn't have any fans on the bottom, not sure if he put them in the top or not.


----------



## pcrevolution

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rfarmer*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first build doesn't have any fans on the bottom, not sure if he put them in the top or not.






Thank you so much!

I'm quite sure the last one involves some modding with the top roof. There's no way the clearance for the radiators is so much with a slim rad + a set of fans in the roof.

An unmodded one should be closer to the second photo.

But thanks a lot for the pictures!


----------



## Akhenaton

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MoonScryer*
> 
> Here is mine in an Enthoo Luxe in no particular order. i7-3770k @ 4.8ghz; mostly EKWB parts. 5.0 just was too much voltage for my long-term liking.
> 
> Videocard will be on the water next year when I choose something else; just didn't feel like wasting the money for something I will replace. Cable management is on-going.


Nice, this is exactly what I wanna do: a radiator in the front.
What are the measures of your rad?


----------



## Aislini

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cloudraker*
> 
> I'm not trying to be abrasive but most people typically consider "fitting in" to mean inside the case. I'm sure that if when you initially asked you hadn't made it sound as though inside is where you wanted it, you may have received a different answer. When you are willing to mount things externally it opens up a whole plethora of options you wouldn't have had prior. I'm glad you were able to come up with a suitable solutuon, however.
> Of course I may be misinterpreting what your saying and I'm not familiar with the case. Do you mean you mounted it up top inside? If so that may be news that makes a bunch of people happy.


Yes i mounted it on top inside case and with eatx mbo rampage 5.And i know that this will make people happy same as it did me.Thou there is one compromise.you won't be able to pull 8+4 pin connector on top from behind because there is no enough room for cables.
Will put some pictures a bit later because im to lazy to get up to get cable for my phone.


----------



## MoonScryer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Akhenaton*
> 
> Nice, this is exactly what I wanna do: a radiator in the front.
> What are the measures of your rad?


Both radiators are EK Coolstream XE 360. 360x60mm. I used Corsair mesh covers for the drive bay slots.


----------



## KaffieneKing

Anyone know when the enthoo mini xl D's will be available?


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaffieneKing*
> 
> Anyone know when the enthoo mini xl D's will be available?


Do you mean this one? http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811854026

If so available now.


----------



## KaffieneKing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rfarmer*
> 
> Do you mean this one? http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811854026
> 
> If so available now.


Sorry should have specified in the UK! Any phanteks reps?


----------



## Akhenaton

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MoonScryer*
> 
> Both radiators are EK Coolstream XE 360. 360x60mm. I used Corsair mesh covers for the drive bay slots.


Thanks!

Can I see the front of the case?


----------



## Gidoguy

I got the Luxe case a few days ago, all worked fine, however, recently I experienced a glitch where 3 of the LED's on the left side of the external lighting decided to either not work on some colour profiles or just be a different colour than the rest.



As you can see, this isn't ideal.
Has anyone else had this issue? and if so, is there a fix?


----------



## koniu777

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gidoguy*
> 
> I got the Luxe case a few days ago, all worked fine, however, recently I experienced a glitch where 3 of the LED's on the left side of the external lighting decided to either not work on some colour profiles or just be a different colour than the rest.
> 
> 
> 
> As you can see, this isn't ideal.
> Has anyone else had this issue? and if so, is there a fix?


I'm sorry but you need to rma that case, unless you want to take apart the top panel and mess around with soldering a new rgb led strip to the 4wire lead.

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk


----------



## lklem

Migrate from soft tube to PETG tube


----------



## Gidoguy

Is the light strip connected in the same way as the internal LED's are?


----------



## lklem

Nope, this is something like this, I modified the power connector to molex 4D


----------



## Gidoguy

sorry, i was asking the other guy


----------



## chas1723

Got my primo build up and running. Was wonderful to work in.









Sent from my VS986 using Tapatalk


----------



## blurp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chas1723*
> 
> Got my primo build up and running. Was wonderful to work in.
> 
> Sent from my VS986 using Tapatalk


I'll get my Primo on Tuesday. Thanks for sharing your build. Can't wait to work on mine!


----------



## madboy128

MB: Asus z97-K
CPU- 4670K @ 4.4GHZ
VGA - Sapphire R9 290 @ 1150/6000
RAM - 4x4GB (16) CL9 1600 @ 2133
SSD - Samsung 850EVO 240GB + 2х320HDD
Case - Phanteks Enthoo Primo.
PSU - Corsair AX1200i
Fans 12x Noctua NF-F12 ( 6 mounth on pictures.)

WaterCooling:
CPU - EK Supreme HF + JetPlane #6
VGA - AquaComputer R9 290 full cover nickel plated.
RAD - XSPC RX360 V3 + BlackIce SR-1 360.
Pump - 2xMCP655 + EK DUAL TOP.
Tubes - Alphacool UV blUE 13/10


----------



## demitrisln

Hey all first time custom water cooler here. Been building computers for a few years. Wanted to up load some pictures and get some ideas on how to improve. I've replaced the Primo windows with a mnpctech full glass window. I'm thinking about replacing the bottom fans with these http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NC08EM6?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=ox_sc_act_title_1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

and I know I need to do a 90degree elbow from the inlet port to the GPU and eliminate that big U trap

Let me know how I can improve.


----------



## taem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *demitrisln*
> 
> I'm thinking about replacing the bottom fans with these http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NC08EM6?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=ox_sc_act_title_1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER


Get MP series fans, not SP. The MP is much quieter and gives me better temps also. They also have rubber vibration dampeners. The SP fans imho are not good unless you don't care about noise at all.


----------



## demitrisln

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *taem*
> 
> Get MP series fans, not SP. The MP is much quieter and gives me better temps also. They also have rubber vibration dampeners. The SP fans imho are not good unless you don't care about noise at all.


Thanks I'll purchase the MP instead of the SP. I saw the SP had rubber pads but if the MP is that much quieter I'd rather go that route. I'll get that changed over this weekend.

Next thing I need to do is learn to sleeve the cables for the res/pump. I ordered some cable combs for the GPU so hopefully that will make it look better.


----------



## Cozmo85

Does a 120mm fit on top of 2 140mm fans in the evolv atx/ethoo pro M?


----------



## majik73

I have a quick question. This is my first water cooling build (I'm using the Phantek Enthoo Primo case) and I just noticed what looks like a slight kink




The tubing is Primochill Primoflex Advanced LRT 1/2 ID 3/4 OD. So I'm asking is that ok (I believe it would affect flow slightly but I do have 2 D5 pumps running the loop). Thanks for any and all help.


----------



## PureBlackFire

I had some kinks like that in mine for a few weeks. you should get a 45 degree adapter for that spot.


----------



## Devil Inc

So I currently have an ATX AMD build in a Corsair 750D, but I think I want to downsize a little bit and grab one of the new Phanteks Enthoo Mini XL cases. I will be jumping to Skylake and it will be going underwater if I do go through as planned. I'm excited to see some builds using the Mini XL. Anyone on that train yet?


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Devil Inc*
> 
> So I currently have an ATX AMD build in a Corsair 750D, but I think I want to downsize a little bit and grab one of the new Phanteks Enthoo Mini XL cases. I will be jumping to Skylake and it will be going underwater if I do go through as planned. I'm excited to see some builds using the Mini XL. Anyone on that train yet?


technically the MiniXL is almost the same size as the 750D. downsizing the motherboard without downsizing the case.


----------



## Devil Inc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PureBlackFire*
> 
> technically the MiniXL is almost the same size as the 750D. downsizing the motherboard without downsizing the case.


Guess I should take another gander at the dimensions.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Devil Inc*
> 
> Guess I should take another gander at the dimensions.


The EVOLV ATX would be a downsize while retaining the ATX form factor.


----------



## Otterfluff

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *taem*
> 
> Get MP series fans, not SP. The MP is much quieter and gives me better temps also. They also have rubber vibration dampeners. The SP fans imho are not good unless you don't care about noise at all.


Just like to point out that he's dead right about the 120MP being better choice over the 120sp, however it's the opposite for 140mm the 140SP > 140MP for both noise, pushing air, moving air through a rad.

I fully understand the120mp is a great fan but the 140MP just dose not match up to the 140sp when I did extensive testing comparing the two. My testing was done on 280mm Monsta in push pull with medical grade dust filters.

I dont know why the 140mp is so underwhelmling compared to the 140sp, maybe they just copied the design from the 120mp and thought it would work, maybe the 140sp was just a much better designed fan.

So for phanteks fans

120mm on a rad go -> 120MP

140mm on a rad go -> 140SP or 140XP with XP just being the pwm version.


----------



## Cozmo85

Would it be better to get more pressure optimized intake fans for the Evolv ATX or just leave it alone. Also the stock 2 140mms vs 3 120mms.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cozmo85*
> 
> Would it be better to get more pressure optimized intake fans for the Evolv ATX or just leave it alone. Also the stock 2 140mms vs 3 120mms.


The Evolv ATX is a very open case internally, what blockage do you have inside that requires higher pressure fans for?


----------



## Cozmo85

I was more concerned about the whats in front of the fans, the filter and solid aluminum plate.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cozmo85*
> 
> I was more concerned about the whats in front of the fans, the filter and solid aluminum plate.


Ah....so you are looking for fans with better _suction_ characteristics, not necessarily higher outbound pressure. While the two sometimes go hand in hand, many times they do not. Many high static fans have notoriously bad suction capabilities.

The included fans do well in the Evolv ATX. I have switched them out to 3 F120MP, and also to 3 NF-S12B at various times with little difference in flow. I know that a number of people here have used spacers to move the front panel slightly out from its normal position, and this has been said to provide better results than fan upgrades (taking for granted that you are looking for a similar noise profile).


----------



## Cozmo85

Thanks, sounds like youve already done the test i was interested in doing.


----------



## Reaper28

Has anybody had any issues with the LED strips on the Luxe? mine seem to have completely died on me yesterday.


----------



## fredocini

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Reaper28*
> 
> Has anybody had any issues with the LED strips on the Luxe? mine seem to have completely died on me yesterday.


are you talking about the built in strips inside the sides of the chassis or a separate one like the 2m or 1m for inside the window?


----------



## Reaper28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fredocini*
> 
> are you talking about the built in strips inside the sides of the chassis or a separate one like the 2m or 1m for inside the window?


Yeah the strips inside the case attached to the front/top panel. I have no idea how it happened, I had a fading problem a few months ago but that fixed itself some how. Now the main reason I bought the case is dead literally. I emailed Phanteks yesterday I'm just waiting for a reply


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Reaper28*
> 
> Yeah the strips inside the case attached to the front/top panel. I have no idea how it happened, I had a fading problem a few months ago but that fixed itself some how. Now the main reason I bought the case is dead literally. I emailed Phanteks yesterday I'm just waiting for a reply


Did you check the connector? You can find it easily if you pull off the front of the case. Were is not making good contact, that could have caused the fading issue and could be the issue of your current failure.


----------



## fredocini

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Reaper28*
> 
> Yeah the strips inside the case attached to the front/top panel. I have no idea how it happened, I had a fading problem a few months ago but that fixed itself some how. Now the main reason I bought the case is dead literally. I emailed Phanteks yesterday I'm just waiting for a reply


I've had the same issue before. It's either one of three scenarios. You can check the connectors on the front panel behind the the LED button/USB ports where there are three screws holding it back. One time, my LED's just faded randomly and the connectors for the strips ended up being loose so I just re-connected it. I've also had issues with the LED PCB as well which is located on the top panel. Once you remove the top panel, there should be a green looking thing underneath with both the top LED strips attached; I've had to replace it once before, and Phanteks had great support as they sent me a new one. Worst case scenario is that both PCB's need replacing, so Phanteks would be your best choice for support.

When I get home, I may be able to post some pictures to help you out. I find that maybe reading text to describe the positioning of items may be confusing lol.


----------



## Reaper28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Did you check the connector? You can find it easily if you pull off the front of the case. Were is not making good contact, that could have caused the fading issue and could be the issue of your current failure.


Yep I checked everything, I thought maybe it was just a bad connector to the LED harness, changed SATA power cable connectors, I even tried using a SATA to molex connector on a different modular cable seeing if it was a PSU problem nothing seemed to work.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fredocini*
> 
> I've had the same issue before. It's either one of three scenarios. You can check the connectors on the front panel behind the the LED button/USB ports where there are three screws holding it back. One time, my LED's just faded randomly and the connectors for the strips ended up being loose so I just re-connected it. I've also had issues with the LED PCB as well which is located on the top panel. Once you remove the top panel, there should be a green looking thing underneath with both the top LED strips attached; I've had to replace it once before, and Phanteks had great support as they sent me a new one. Worst case scenario is that both PCB's need replacing, so Phanteks would be your best choice for support.
> 
> When I get home, I may be able to post some pictures to help you out. I find that maybe reading text to describe the positioning of items may be confusing lol.


Funny thing is I checked the connector on the back of the PCB and the glue holding the actual connector to the PCB seemed kind of soft? like it had only been on for a few days. I don't know if maybe it overheated or what I don't want to pull the connector out with it being glued in and rip the cable or pins out and all the other USB/audio and reset button are working fine and there doesn't seem to be any burn marks to the actual PCB. I hope Phanteks will get back to me soon


----------



## shilka

Finally got around to order some more Noctua NF-A14 FLX fans to replace my last stock Phanteks fans which make a ton of vibration noise.
Also bought a new CPU cooler and a new mouse, should be here on friday.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Man ive been waiting on the primo to come back down a bit in price as when i checked it right before christmas it was on sale but of course i didnt have the money then... it was 219.99 with a 20 dollar mail in rebate and free shipping(steal of a deal) then it went to 239.99 free shipping now its 249.99 with 10 dollar shipping... im getting tired of waiting... trying to be patient....i only want the black/black version as the other colors dont really appeal to me.... i would like the black and red if i still had a black and red motherboard... but my god the green one is on sale now and its way too bright of a green...i really want this case and two pretty shiny 480's 60mm thick... and probably a 240 or 280 as well


----------



## Bigjk47

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> Man ive been waiting on the primo to come back down a bit in price as when i checked it right before christmas it was on sale but of course i didnt have the money then... it was 219.99 with a 20 dollar mail in rebate and free shipping(steal of a deal) then it went to 239.99 free shipping now its 249.99 with 10 dollar shipping... im getting tired of waiting... trying to be patient....i only want the black/black version as the other colors dont really appeal to me.... i would like the black and red if i still had a black and red motherboard... but my god the green one is on sale now and its way too bright of a green...i really want this case and two pretty shiny 480's 60mm thick... and probably a 240 or 280 as well


Too bad you didn't love locally I'm getting ready to sell mine in mint condition for $200 but shipping on that monster would devour the price


----------



## Phantasia

Heya!

Got my Phanteks Enthoo Luxe last week and have it running all well.

Got the 1m led strip as well for it and the case looks awesome!

Moved in from a Coolermaster Storm Trooper and really happy with the change!

I wanted to leave some feedback on Phanteks support for Europe. I contacted them last saturday (02-01-2016) about a missing rubber foot on the case and also about some markings on the front panel.

They asked for an address, address, invoice for the purchase and also photos of the markings.

I sent them in yesterday (04-01-2016) and today received a confirmation that they will be sending me in 1 rubber foot and 1 new front panel!

Awesome customer service! I was actually a bit afraid at how this would work since I had never worked with Phanteks in the past...

Now besides loving their cases so far, they got another point for their costumer service, so this will be a brand that I will be following up with in the future!


----------



## jaymz60

Well I just received my Phanteks Enthoo Luxe black. I haven't opened as of yet but going to use a personal day and swap out system and make some changes .


----------



## PureBlackFire

*Phanteks Eclipse P400 Announced*




properly named for Eclipsing the price point of the Enthoo pro M. lol Phanteks, this should be the one that comes with a single fan and single SSD bracket. it would be a hit at $59.99.


----------



## Faster_is_better

Will come with 2x SSD brackets on full release. HC clarified in the comments. (I see you were saying they "should" have gone with less to bring price down )

I like it, and probably would have bought 2 of them for a client's build if they were available 6 months ago.


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Faster_is_better*
> 
> Will come with 2x SSD brackets on full release. HC clarified in the comments. (I see you were saying they "should" have gone with less to bring price down )
> 
> I like it, and probably would have bought 2 of them for a client's build if they were available 6 months ago.


yup. this is a more thought out release, problem is the Pro M is already there. I remember saying when that was announced that it should have come with 2 x SSD brackets, 2 fans (non premium fans, just like this one does), dust covers on the front vents and a better sized window. Phanteks should really decide which one is gonna be the ultra stripped down case. to me this would be a hit at $50-$60 and nobody could complain if it came with 1 fan and 1 SSD bracket and that silly excuse for a window the Pro M has. the $80 Pro M should receive a packaging upgrade.


----------



## mav451

Haha - that model number came out of left field too.
Pro M, Primo, Enthoo, Evolv, or even Eclipse - that's all following the P/E nomenclature.

Why name it the P400, unless there's going to be a P300/P500 in the future


----------



## Shneiky

I was almost sad when I saw the 400 Eclipse, because I just got a H440. But then I saw the Eclipse and it will not fit tall air coolers, and knowing Phanteks, it will not come with a solid side panel.


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mav451*
> 
> Haha - that model number came out of left field too.
> Pro M, Primo, Enthoo, Evolv, or even Eclipse - that's all following the P/E nomenclature.
> 
> Why name it the P400, unless there's going to be a P300/P500 in the future


I bet there will be more in this series.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shneiky*
> 
> I was almost sad when I saw the 400 Eclipse, because I just got a H440. But then I saw the Eclipse and it will not fit tall air coolers, and knowing Phanteks, it will not come with a solid side panel.


there are already 3 versions shown, the window panel, a silent version and a solid panel version. they are seen at the end of that video. also, this is a budget case in the realm of the S340, Aerocool Aero 800 etc. not gonna have room for tall coolers on this one, or even a dual radiator in the top with many motherboards.


----------



## asphyxia

Hello and happy new year, can someone that has the phanteks enthoo pro M midi take a picture of the guide(manual) and upload it here? thanks in advance


----------



## Shneiky

I tried scavenging the internet and only found the windowed white and black version. Guess my googling skills are horrible.

Well, the only reason why I did not pick up Enthoo Pro M, but a H440, is that they do not have solid side panel edition and do not sell any panels separately. I like Phanteks designs, I like their prices, I like their quality, but for god's sake, can I have my solid side panel, if not on the case, at least for a separate purchase.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *asphyxia*
> 
> Hello and happy new year, can someone that has the phanteks enthoo pro M midi take a picture of the guide(manual) and upload it here? thanks in advance


You can download it here - http://phanteks.com/assets/manuals/PH-ES515P_Western.pdf


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *asphyxia*
> 
> Hello and happy new year, can someone that has the phanteks enthoo pro M midi take a picture of the guide(manual) and upload it here? thanks in advance


if for some reason you can't view or download the PDF:


Spoiler: Pro M manual (pic heavy!)































you're welcome









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shneiky*
> 
> I tried scavenging the internet and only found the windowed white and black version. Guess my googling skills are horrible.
> 
> Well, the only reason why I did not pick up Enthoo Pro M, but a H440, is that they do not have solid side panel edition and do not sell any panels separately. I like Phanteks designs, I like their prices, I like their quality, but for god's sake, can I have my solid side panel, if not on the case, at least for a separate purchase.


sorry, Dimitry from HWC commented on the video with the three different options.


----------



## Russmaf

Recently bought and Enthoo Luxe and completely love the case yet still wanted to make some minor mods that fit my tastes better. This is the first mod I have made and I just loved the mounting option of the NZXT S340 case for ssd drives so I managed to come up with this here. Before you all murder me for the red sata cable and small mobo I have this in my defense. The parts here are from my first build and I will be upgrading parts as money comes available, The new parts will be as follows Asus z170 pro mobo, skylake 6600k processor, and waiting on the new pascal cards to choose what I will be getting from that lineup. also I will be getting all the cables sleeved with blue white and black to match the ssds and the rest of the build. this is another reason I chose to do this mod as my ssd already had such a similar color scheme as I was planning on doing for the new build so when the second ssd that I recently purchased came on sale I couldnt help myself and had to make this mod to help show them off


So please let me know what you think of this small and simple yet IMO quite awesome looking mod


----------



## KaffieneKing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Russmaf*
> 
> /snip


I would love to do this in my EVOLV mATX if anyone knows where I can get the rubber grommets they use for their rear mounted sledges?


----------



## Russmaf

I would think that they would come with the bracket but you can always just email Phanteks they are pretty quick at replying


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shneiky*
> 
> I tried scavenging the internet and only found the windowed white and black version. Guess my googling skills are horrible.
> 
> Well, the only reason why I did not pick up Enthoo Pro M, but a H440, is that they do not have solid side panel edition and do not sell any panels separately. I like Phanteks designs, I like their prices, I like their quality, but for god's sake, can I have my solid side panel, if not on the case, at least for a separate purchase.











I hear you.
Often wondered about just applying dark limo window tinting .. even go ghetto with back rattle-can.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Russmaf*
> 
> Recently bought and Enthoo Luxe and completely love the case yet still wanted to make some minor mods that fit my tastes better. This is the first mod I have made and I just loved the mounting option of the NZXT S340 case for ssd drives so I managed to come up with this here. Before you all murder me for the red sata cable and small mobo I have this in my defense. The parts here are from my first build and I will be upgrading parts as money comes available, The new parts will be as follows Asus z170 pro mobo, skylake 6600k processor, and waiting on the new pascal cards to choose what I will be getting from that lineup. also I will be getting all the cables sleeved with blue white and black to match the ssds and the rest of the build. this is another reason I chose to do this mod as my ssd already had such a similar color scheme as I was planning on doing for the new build so when the second ssd that I recently purchased came on sale I couldnt help myself and had to make this mod to help show them off
> 
> 
> So please let me know what you think of this small and simple yet IMO quite awesome looking mod


Looking good!








Except those red cables.


----------



## KaffieneKing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Russmaf*
> 
> I would think that they would come with the bracket but you can always just email Phanteks they are pretty quick at replying


Unfortunately not, I already purchased one and it was just the bracket.

EDIT: Just double checked by screw bin and found 8 similar rubber bits (not the same they dont have an indent where the screw goes) I'll try them next time I pull my rig apart at some point over the next week or so.


----------



## Cozmo85

Wonder if phanteks is gonna let us buy the evolv ATX + Glass panel.

edit: nope, new panels are screw on, not hinged.


----------



## PureBlackFire




----------



## PetrasSukys

So, I am declaring myself crazy about Enthoo Primo. I do not own it. YET. I am planning a build with it, saving some more money, waiting for Pascal and stuff.

Meanwhile, I have (had) way too much time on my hands and decided that I want to plan my build in more detail. So I decided to create Primo 3D model. I am not a professional 3D artist or CAD professional. So, please, do not judge. Much












I will repeat myself (as I said in description of those models):

!!! this is NOT AN ACCURATE model !!!

Regular model:
https://3dwarehouse.sketchup.com/model.html?id=u5c3d66f9-025d-4f61-9479-29e716a0b8ed

Light version (less poly, lower filesize):
https://3dwarehouse.sketchup.com/model.html?id=u0d5aa40b-2f43-475b-828b-81cb0a5f2fba

I've used Sketchup Make 2016, because I just like how intuitive it is.

Use it for laying out your build, not test fitting! There might be wrong distance by 5mm (~1/4 inch) or more. Double check if you are test fitting.

I am sharing it here so someone could use it for planning, too


----------



## BLAMM0

Šaunuolis, Petrai









That looks nice


----------



## LinusBE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PureBlackFire*


The Evolv glass is now my new favourite case. I hope the price will be not too much above the price of the regular Evolv ATX. Is there any information about price and availability?


----------



## PureBlackFire




----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PetrasSukys*
> 
> So, I am declaring myself crazy about Enthoo Primo. I do not own it. YET. I am planning a build with it, saving some more money, waiting for Pascal and stuff.
> 
> Meanwhile, I have (had) way too much time on my hands and decided that I want to plan my build in more detail. So I decided to create Primo 3D model. I am not a professional 3D artist or CAD professional. So, please, do not judge. Much
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I will repeat myself (as I said in description of those models):
> 
> !!! this is NOT AN ACCURATE model !!!
> 
> Regular model:
> https://3dwarehouse.sketchup.com/model.html?id=u5c3d66f9-025d-4f61-9479-29e716a0b8ed
> 
> Light version (less poly, lower filesize):
> https://3dwarehouse.sketchup.com/model.html?id=u0d5aa40b-2f43-475b-828b-81cb0a5f2fba
> 
> I've used Sketchup Make 2016, because I just like how intuitive it is.
> 
> Use it for laying out your build, not test fitting! There might be wrong distance by 5mm (~1/4 inch) or more. Double check if you are test fitting.
> 
> I am sharing it here so someone could use it for planning, too


dude that's very nice...looks pretty accurate to me







I'm seriously considering just buying the black and green version and painting the green bits black to save around 25 dollars...waiting for the black/black to go on sale is killing me lol


----------



## Sem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PureBlackFire*


Project 916 looks nice but far to big for my liking

i hope they bring out a smaller full tower one of simlar size to the luxe without any of that dual PC stuff


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sem*
> 
> Project 916 looks nice but far to big for my liking
> 
> i hope they bring out a smaller full tower one of simlar size to the luxe without any of that dual PC stuff


exactly my thoughts. make it approximately 40-50 mm taller than the Luxe, basically the same height as the 780T, and leave the other dimensions the same. I'd buy one with no hesitation to switch my build into. where is BrianPhanteks at? their forum is dead as well. they need some feedback because that P400 budget tower has the same issue as the Evolv ATX and Pro M. if you want to use a 360 rad in the front you have topart with all 3.5" drive options. not cool, maybe it can't be helped on a case that small, but they need to stop carrying over design blunders to new cases.


----------



## MedRed

Please, please, please, please, please make the Project 916 case. I love the ability to SLI/Crossfire multiple cards while still being able to display one card on a PCIE riser. can we get more pictures?


----------



## rfarmer

Yeah that 916 is an impressive case, very cool.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Alright so i bit the bullet and bought the black/green primo... i have nothing that matches it but.. most of my items are black so no worries.. and if worst comes to worse i will paint the green black... but for 30 dollars less color isnt that important to me... should be here by next thursday...


----------



## Phantasia

Wow at the 916 case...

Amazing thing!


----------



## Jiryama

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PureBlackFire*


I love this design!









Things I would like to see happen:
1. LED Strips to be RGB
2. Maybe be able to fit a 240-360mm on the bottom compartment for those of us who do not want to use the PSU splitter combo section.
3. Have option for bottom part below Phanteks logo to NOT be the window. I would like solid aluminum there because I hate seeing all of my wiring in a windowed system.
4. Not sure if it can right now since can't see specs, but ability to use a Push/Pull system on the top with a 30mm radiator. So 80mm of clearance?

Either way, awesome case. Was considering a Phanteks in my previous build but went with something different. maybe this one will change my mind!


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jiryama*
> 
> I love this design!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Things I would like to see happen:
> 1. LED Strips to be RGB
> 2. Maybe be able to fit a 240-360mm on the bottom compartment for those of us who do not want to use the PSU splitter combo section.
> 3. Have option for bottom part below Phanteks logo to NOT be the window. I would like solid aluminum there because I hate seeing all of my wiring in a windowed system.
> 4. Not sure if it can right now since can't see specs, but ability to use a Push/Pull system on the top with a 30mm radiator. So 80mm of clearance?
> 
> Either way, awesome case. Was considering a Phanteks in my previous build but went with something different. maybe this one will change my mind!


I agree there needs to be rad support in the bottom. not sure, but it looks like there could be some sort of rail or bracket down there. I'd like 480 rad support down there in the bottom or side mounted as well. I think a few choices of side panel is a good idea. that one, one as you described. I really just want a shorter version of this that's about 590 - 600 mm tall. I need a case bigger than my Luxe, but don't want something the size of the Primo either. top clearance should be over 100mm IMO, but this has the slide out bracket. it does mean the mount is offset near the side panel for motherboard clearance, but Phanteks' implementation of this bracket eats up too much vertical clearance itself in every case that uses it. they should change the design so you can mount fans on top of the bracket, that would solve everything.


----------



## Jiryama

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PureBlackFire*
> 
> I agree there needs to be rad support in the bottom. not sure, but it looks like there could be some sort of rail or bracket down there. I'd like 480 rad support down there in the bottom or side mounted as well. I think a few choices of side panel is a good idea. that one, one as you described. I really just want a shorter version of this that's about 590 - 600 mm tall. I need a case bigger than my Luxe, but don't want something the size of the Primo either. top clearance should be over 100mm IMO, but this has the slide out bracket. it does mean the mount is offset near the side panel for motherboard clearance, but Phanteks' implementation of this bracket eats up too much vertical clearance itself in every case that uses it. they should change the design so you can mount fans on top of the bracket, that would solve everything.


My main gripes would be the bottom mounted radiator and RGB LED Strips (That you can maybe plug into a motherboard or controller). I would throw my money at it if it has both of those. being able to fit a 480 on top and 360mm as is right now is awesome, but a non RGB strip would actually be a deal breaker for me, couldn't explain why myself lol.

Looking at water enthusiast cases I don't pay attention to size because if I wanted something compact wouldn't make me want to be a water enthusiast! I understand the pain of trying to be innovative with a bottom compartment without just blatantly copying the design of the 900D unlike the ugly Thermaltake X71. (Coming from an owner of a Core v71) it does make it difficult. The bottom side mounted 480mm radiator would be freaking amazing! I would definitely buy a Phanteks over the 900D or TT versions simply because of the elegance and quality that they put into their cases.


----------



## MedRed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jiryama*
> 
> I love this design!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Things I would like to see happen:
> 1. LED Strips to be RGB
> 2. Maybe be able to fit a 240-360mm on the bottom compartment for those of us who do not want to use the PSU splitter combo section.
> 3. Have option for bottom part below Phanteks logo to NOT be the window. I would like solid aluminum there because I hate seeing all of my wiring in a windowed system.
> 4. Not sure if it can right now since can't see specs, but ability to use a Push/Pull system on the top with a 30mm radiator. So 80mm of clearance?
> 
> Either way, awesome case. Was considering a Phanteks in my previous build but went with something different. maybe this one will change my mind!


1. sure
2. I'm ok with making the bottom flexible, but It needs to be able to look just the way it is in the prototype. There are plenty of conventional offerings with rad space in the bottom front
3. Making the front not 100% glass would be a no sale for me. I want to showcase my entire build. Learn to cable management
4. Why not.

Phanteks, if you want to sell me your protoype, I'll pay top dollar for it. Funny thing is I was heading to Microcenter this weekend to pick up a Lian Li PC-O7s. Plans have changed.

another video:


----------



## Jiryama

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MedRed*
> 
> 1. sure
> 2. I'm ok with making the bottom flexible, but It needs to be able to look just the way it is in the prototype. There are plenty of conventional offerings with rad space in the bottom front
> 3. Making the front not 100% glass would be a no sale for me. I want to showcase my entire build. Learn to cable management
> 4. Why not.
> 
> Phanteks, if you want to sell me your protoype, I'll pay top dollar for it. Funny thing is I was heading to Microcenter this weekend to pick up a Lian Li PC-O7s. Plans have changed.
> 
> another video:


That is a (minor but majorly) more descriptive video thanks for posting!

He said that there is a second PSU behind the motherboard tray which eliminates the need to have the bottom compartment covered allowing to stay all glass. End of the day, with the best possible cable management in the world, they still have to plug into something which is what I don't want showing. Biggest thing I see with this case is that if you don't want to use a second system on the inside then you have a lot of unused space. Which is actually fantastic in right situation! If they gave an optional mounting on the bottom for another 360mm w/ HDD Bay, or a 480mm radiator w/o, that could give someone the ability to use all of the bottom space with the PSU hidden behind motherboard tray.
Other thing that I noticed is that in the video it is more evident that you can only use push or pull on the top with a slim radiator - not a deal breaker but the extra 25mm of space would be awesome.

They had my attention with the Enthloo Primo - they can have my money with the Project 916!


----------



## JMCB

I would hope that the 916 has RGB lighting. That would make it my next case, for sure.


----------



## Sencha

Phanteks are killing it right now. That evolv with glass has got to be purchased


----------



## KaffieneKing

Wish they would release an update to the mATX version, even front buttons would be great lol!

I hope someone from phanteks is listening because I would love to replace my side panel for one without front panel headers! Having the window and buttons on opposite sides is absurd! (I still bought it though!)


----------



## Reaper28

I contacted Phanteks about the LED strip issue and they said they might try and send a replacement PCB I'm just waiting for them to get back to me (it's been about a week) and I hope it's actually the PCB and not the strips themselves


----------



## Radox-0

That 916 if produced is my next case. Bar none. Hopefully there will be a basement radiator.


----------



## Triniboi82

Jeez I literally just bought the enthoo evolv atx & now I see this gorgeous 916 chassis


----------



## smithydan

Bar none phanteks is best value for sure with good looking cases too.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Yeah I got to thinking I'm going to run with the green color on the primo...I've got green inserts for my leds on my gpu blocks and cpu block and fans can be painted...most everything is black...I can also use green cling on the new window I'm going to install on the h220x...(I could replace the window with a green one but I think I have some green cling in the basement...) the sabertooth also has some greenish tint in some areas...might not look bad if I keep the tubing black to offset all the green...and all the rads will be black...


----------



## Triniboi82

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> Yeah I got to thinking I'm going to run with the green color on the primo...I've got green inserts for my leds on my gpu blocks and cpu block and fans can be painted...most everything is black...I can also use green cling on the new window I'm going to install on the h220x...(I could replace the window with a green one but I think I have some green cling in the basement...) the sabertooth also has some greenish tint in some areas...might not look bad if I keep the tubing black to offset all the green...and all the rads will be black...


I'm literally doing the same thing with black and green tubing in my evolv atx, already have green gelid fans, don't care to paint my typhoons & just repainted my rads in black.


----------



## brazilianloser

Anyone sporting an Evolv ITX with a Corsair H110 up top? Just curious.


----------



## WHIMington

The 916 looks so good that I want to buy one right now!

Little thing to make it perfect: Small angled brackets for fan controller installs (because right now mounting a fan controller means the full size drive bay have to stay)

Personally, I wish there is a case that is shorter but higher, with 420 support and enough clearance for high standing RAM, have 360 or even 420 support without removing the dual 5.25 drive bay at the top and movable harddrive cage space at the bottom.


----------



## Akhenaton

Hi guys, I'm trying to change the led strip color of my Enthoo Luxe, but everytime I turn off /on my pc, the color is resetted to the previous.

Why?


----------



## brazilianloser

NVM my earlier question... figured it out by just trying it. Was a pain but got it in there.


----------



## LinusBE

Doing a build later today with a friend in the Enthoo Pro M Acrylic window edition. I am very curious to see how it looks. If I like it and my custom loop fits inside, I might buy it myself.


----------



## isif

Evolv ATX GLASS!

Do we know anything about this thing besides the Hardware Canucks video?

A version with solid panels on both sides will be pretty sweet as well. Or at least sell us a solid left hand side panel.


----------



## isif

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shneiky*
> 
> I was almost sad when I saw the 400 Eclipse, because I just got a H440. But then I saw the Eclipse and it will not fit tall air coolers, and knowing Phanteks, it will not come with a solid side panel.


This.

They make some ass kicking cases but sometimes we need solid panels as well.


----------



## brazilianloser

Build for my Father-in-Law. Nice, small and simple.
http://pcpartpicker.com/b/Vz3Ff7


----------



## KaffieneKing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brazilianloser*
> 
> Build for my Father-in-Law. Nice, small and simple.
> http://pcpartpicker.com/b/Vz3Ff7


Bit overkill on the cooler! Looks nice and tidy though


----------



## brazilianloser

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaffieneKing*
> 
> Bit overkill on the cooler! Looks nice and tidy though


LOL yeah i know... but I explained on pcpartpicker that it was just something I have had sitting around for a long time now. So since it fit it was hard to make a point not to use it. And the EVO212 I was planning on putting there I will use it on my upcoming Plex build instead.


----------



## PureBlackFire

I remember when I built my first pc and used a TR2 430 watt. it blew up.


----------



## brazilianloser

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PureBlackFire*
> 
> I remember when I built my first pc and used a TR2 430 watt. it blew up.


LOL nice


----------



## mfknjadagr8

So im thinking about mounting a couple of these to keep tabs on the water temps in my loop...
http://www.performance-pcs.com/xspc-lcd-temperature-sensor-v2-green-g1-4-plug-sensor.html

anyone used these and if so how did they perform... they definately fit the green theme


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> So im thinking about mounting a couple of these to keep tabs on the water temps in my loop...
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/xspc-lcd-temperature-sensor-v2-green-g1-4-plug-sensor.html
> 
> anyone used these and if so how did they perform... they definately fit the green theme


I have a few of them that I use in test benches, and I have used that particular sensor in a couple of my builds. There seem to be some customer reports of screen issues, but all of mine have worked perfectly. The wiring is a little delicate, so you do have to handle them with some care - other than that they have been great.


----------



## Triniboi82

How I'm looking atm in the evolv atx, very snug fit with the 360 at top, couldn't fit an additional fan so have to use two for the while. Might replace the 360 with a 280 or I may keep it as is, just bothering me that the 360 isn't being cooled efficiently. Needed the lower drive cages which is why I had to put the 360 up top. Very impressed with the build quality of the evolv but I do wish it was a couple inches taller.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> I have a few of them that I use in test benches, and I have used that particular sensor in a couple of my builds. There seem to be some customer reports of screen issues, but all of mine have worked perfectly. The wiring is a little delicate, so you do have to handle them with some care - other than that they have been great.


I'm trying to figure out a good way to split the signal at the Molex and put something inline to a switch and possibly report two different temperatures from the same lcd with switching....I'll buy three in case I destroy one trying







I was thinking a three position switch splitting the reporting wires...one going to a plug the other to an ambient temp sensor to know delta with the flip of a switch and fast math


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Triniboi82*
> 
> How I'm looking atm in the evolv atx, very snug fit with the 360 at top, couldn't fit an additional fan so have to use two for the while. Might replace the 360 with a 280 or I may keep it as is, just bothering me that the 360 isn't being cooled efficiently. Needed the lower drive cages which is why I had to put the 360 up top. Very impressed with the build quality of the evolv but I do wish it was a couple inches taller.


yes, that slide out bracket kind of hurts vertical clearance. I wish they designed it so fans could go on top of it or it was higher up closer to the top of the case. they should really take this into account on all future cases that have the bracket, like that Project 916 that you can see has the same issue with 480 rads on the bracket and not having room for a rear mounted fan. hopefully they make the changes before that thing launches. in any case, I'd have told you before hand to use only slim rads (if using anything bigger than a 240) in mid towrs, they all have the same space issues. another design improvement that really would help out in the Evolv ATX is letting the hard drive cage be mounted closer to the power supply. having to forgo all 3.5" drives for the use of a 360 rad thicker than 30 mm on the front (or a slim one in push/pull) sucks.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PureBlackFire*
> 
> yes, that slide out bracket kind of hurts vertical clearance. I wish they designed it so fans could go on top of it or it was higher up closer to the top of the case. they should really take this into account on all future cases that have the bracket, like that Project 916 that you can see has the same issue with 480 rads on the bracket and not having room for a rear mounted fan. hopefully they make the changes before that thing launches. in any case, I'd have told you before hand to use only slim rads (if using anything bigger than a 240) in mid towrs, they all have the same space issues. another design improvement that really would help out in the Evolv ATX is letting the hard drive cage be mounted closer to the power supply. having to forgo all 3.5" drives for the use of a 360 rad thicker than 30 mm on the front (or a slim one in push/pull) sucks.


25mm added to the top of the case and HDD mounts behind the res mount would make a world of difference. I am actually moving my rig back into my Luxe simply because I am tired of staring at tw really good rads sitting in their boxes because neither fits properly.


----------



## PureBlackFire

indeed. I hope they have one mount for a 3.5" drive behind the tray in the P400.


----------



## dredeziel1

Had to do a case swap and redo the loop. Pro M Acrylic and new EK revo pump top and fittings


----------



## LinusBE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dredeziel1*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Had to do a case swap and redo the loop. Pro M Acrylic and new EK revo pump top and fittings


What kind of rads do you have? I'm also thinking of transferring my loop (240 + 280 rad) to that case. A friend of mine did a build in that case and he said he couldn't mount his fans directly behind the front panel and to his rad (nzxt kraken x61).


----------



## dredeziel1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LinusBE*
> 
> What kind of rads do you have? I'm also thinking of transferring my loop (240 + 280 rad) to that case. A friend of mine did a build in that case and he said he couldn't mount his fans directly behind the front panel and to his rad (nzxt kraken x61).


EK 240 PE x2


----------



## FLiiCHA




----------



## dredeziel1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dredeziel1*
> 
> EK 240 PE x2


I mounted my fans in the front of my rad with no problems..


----------



## Triniboi82

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PureBlackFire*
> 
> yes, that slide out bracket kind of hurts vertical clearance. I wish they designed it so fans could go on top of it or it was higher up closer to the top of the case. they should really take this into account on all future cases that have the bracket, like that Project 916 that you can see has the same issue with 480 rads on the bracket and not having room for a rear mounted fan. hopefully they make the changes before that thing launches. in any case, I'd have told you before hand to use only slim rads (if using anything bigger than a 240) in mid towrs, they all have the same space issues. another design improvement that really would help out in the Evolv ATX is letting the hard drive cage be mounted closer to the power supply. having to forgo all 3.5" drives for the use of a 360 rad thicker than 30 mm on the front (or a slim one in push/pull) sucks.


Yea should've done a bit more research before I bought it, but when I saw the hardware canucks review I didn't think twice about purchasing. Thankfully I can fit my rear fan w/o any issues and from looking at the 916 video I think they could've fit one but probably chose not to, from the angle that was shown that's what it looks like to me anyway. I actually have 3 HDDs to install so one is gonna be tucked on the side with the cables, looking at the option of an external enclosure to put them all in. The 916 looks like the case I should've bought as it has that nice roomy interior like the phantom 820, but that's how the pc world is, buy something today and the new improved version comes out right after.

Will definitely have to monitor temps with the lack of a third fan on my 360.


----------



## LinusBE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dredeziel1*
> 
> I mounted my fans in the front of my rad with no problems..


I was wondering if it that is also the case with 2 x 140 mm fans.


----------



## dredeziel1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LinusBE*
> 
> I was wondering if it that is also the case with 2 x 140 mm fans.




Not sure about 140 fans and rad....Heres pics for ya though..


----------



## PSILVA

So a EK-XLC 240 predator fit in the top of a Pro M?

Enviado do meu Find 5 através de Tapatalk


----------



## dredeziel1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PSILVA*
> 
> So a EK-XLC 240 predator fit in the top of a Pro M?
> 
> Enviado do meu Find 5 através de Tapatalk


No Question....


----------



## PSILVA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dredeziel1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *PSILVA*
> 
> So a EK-XLC 240 predator fit in the top of a Pro M?
> 
> Enviado do meu Find 5 através de Tapatalk
> 
> 
> 
> No Question....
Click to expand...

?

Enviado do meu Find 5 através de Tapatalk


----------



## PSILVA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PSILVA*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *dredeziel1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *PSILVA*
> 
> So a EK-XLC 240 predator fit in the top of a Pro M?
> 
> Enviado do meu Find 5 através de Tapatalk
> 
> 
> 
> No Question....
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Thanks
> 
> Enviado do meu Find 5 através de Tapatalk
Click to expand...


----------



## velocityx

oh man, im dying to know when that Evolv Glass ATX hits the market, cant be too much work as the chasiss has just minor differences internaly. Phanteks when!!?


----------



## Akhenaton

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Akhenaton*
> 
> Hi guys, I'm trying to change the led strip color of my Enthoo Luxe, but everytime I turn off /on my pc, the color is resetted to the previous.
> 
> Why?


Someone knows why?


----------



## TheMadHatta

Was curious to know if anyone wanted to see my enthoo evolv atx build i spent the past month or 2 working on. I have an injury so its just been a very long and steady project since i pre ordered the case way back.

I plasti dipped it white, dipped a ton of other parts, the visable parts of the water blocks and tons of stuff to match. Went as far as to dremel apart the top panel that holds the shelf and the shelf thats for holding rads/fans to the ceiling, and even drilled my own template for a better fit for my plasti dipped radiator intake im using for my 2 just similar enough graphics cards, its a fun lil build being what limited resources i had in some departments and didint in others.

This has been my first real custom fromt he ground up essentially build. The theme is based on the popular portal game, so orange, blues, a little uv reactives, and a whole lot of white.

And since this is really my fist time ever doing this amount of work which i should have made a build log thread somewhere i figured id ask what you guys think here and where you guys would most like to see or how youd enjoy viewing it most.

For the time being you can see my ranomly uploaded as i worked photos on my flickr if that okay to post here which i believe it is so ill remove it if i get any mention regarding it.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/sparktite/

Check under the album "Evolv ATX Portal PC" To see the road from start to finish but there are... um like 400 photos lol soooo yeah id love some recommendations on how to share it better with anyone who might wanna see it or care for the photos. Luckily its easy to skip to the last page on flickr and view the most complete pictures quickly.

Ill post a couple of the almost finished looking photos here, but i have plans down the road to tidy it up much much better and train the cables down better, really make it all very clean. This is super messy for even my own liking but its still very unique and i love it so far.





Sorry its been ages since ive posted on here so im rly sorry if i posted the pix too big or if there too much lack of grammar or any thing just lemme know and ill fix it up quick.


----------



## KaffieneKing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheMadHatta*
> 
> /snip


Is that 3 pumps and res's?









Pretty certain you could have done 1 loop and the temps for the CPU would have been better, without impacting GPU temps too much, plus it would probably have cleaner runs.

EDIT: Just realised how negative that post sounds, your build looks great, I'm just trying to undertand it


----------



## TheMadHatta

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LinusBE*
> 
> What kind of rads do you have? I'm also thinking of transferring my loop (240 + 280 rad) to that case. A friend of mine did a build in that case and he said he couldn't mount his fans directly behind the front panel and to his rad (nzxt kraken x61).


Sorry fot not keeping these posts together so its all neat and ordly, i hope no one minds. Anyways youll have to consider the kraken sealed loops are pretty fat IMO the most problomatic thing with fitting them is they need more space above them and below them than say your typical 140mm rad, imagine it being on part with an xspc 140mm rad what with it being much taller than it is wide, and you wind up not being able to line 2 up next to eachother without fitting them side by side which would mean you need to have the hose fittings line up and down the inside wall of the case or the side panel, and most cases never really let you fit your rade like that because well its a little silly to go about water cooling in that fashion.

The best bet i could just spit ball would be if you had any nzxt sealed loop coolers youd wanna have one as an intake on the front and one exhausting out the back on the only rear mounting option youll have, and even thats gonna be a bit of a stretch. I know none of the evolv cases of any kind will fit that unless you try for some kinda crazy riser layout for your 1st gpu or if your mobo allows for your gpu to be in an x16 pcie slot far enough down to leave room for a taller sized 140mm rad.

I think the phanteks usually design with room for that but since were talking a kraken here the hosing is gonna need to be on the top not the buttom so it doesnt put pressure on the gpu and thats if your plans are to use it for cooling your highest positioned gpu. Sorry i didnt read back enough to know exactly everything thats entailed im kind of in a rush here, hope i was helpful if even in the slightest, feel free to throw any questions my way or poke holes in my logic i just pulled out of my head from some not so fresh memory.


----------



## TheMadHatta

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaffieneKing*
> 
> Is that 3 pumps and res's?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Pretty certain you could have done 1 loop and the temps for the CPU would have been better, without impacting GPU temps too much, plus it would probably have cleaner runs.
> 
> EDIT: Just realised how negative that post sounds, your build looks great, I'm just trying to undertand it


No worries, I dont pull emotions out of text unless they are extremely rude and im very used to getting the odd look when it comes to my builds. Its just what i had to work with due to my income or access to it being very uncontrollable. This honestly is all just components and pieces ive collected when i did have money theory crafting what i was gonna do with my build(s). Never expected life to be as hellish as its been but i just figured i had a few goals to focus on that were buggin me that i wanted to iron out when it came to the unorthodox approach so ill try to list em off in a liniar and well ill try my best to make sense of it for you and keep it short.

Premise was to go from a dual gpu 360 slim high resistance rad and h240x aio loop into something with better flow and easier bleeding capabilities.
Goal was to go for easier maintenance you cant really make much of a drain or fill setup of any real use with those swiftech AIOs nor bleed em well.
Gutted an old H140x for the pump thats what you see with the res on top, that allows me to avoid any bleeding troubles and monitor the actual coolant for discoloration.
Keeping the gpus with that setup and then leaving the other AIO intact keeps at least 1 warrenty intact and the flow stays completely consistent ( i wanted to try a parallel flow)
The pumps arent designed well enough for me to keep one for redundancy so they both are stuck having to run.
The cpu is kept in another loop, i love the swiftech AIOs and that rear mount is easy to bleed and maintain, without needing as much head dissipation as the cards.
I dont wanna mix EK nickel blocks due to the trouble people have had with them being explosed to any of the following metal combos (nickel+copper), (nickel+silver), (nickel+copper sulfates)
I had great luck with EKs blocks running their ekoolant as they recommend and i dont wanna expose them to what theyve said not to so i can make em last as long as i can without trouble.
The CPU is a copper block so its gotta be either in a more complicated loop separating the gpus or have it done with the way i have with it on its own and the gpus using 1 new and 1 slightly used pair of nickel blocks.
Its expensive and hard to get a hold of the blocks i need for my evga 780ti ACX SC and its biggger bro the 780ti classy KPE. I fried the original twin to the 1st gpu attempting the skilly nzxt kraken g10 adapter route so this was my best bet with what i could manage at the time.

Again this is all with components from my first and this being my 2nd stripped and built back up water loop, i was using the aforementioned kraken adapter so this is me breaking away from the sealed loop AIO market that i couldnt stand.

PS: the politeness is immensely appreciated, i see no need for the heated arguments people get so invested in on pc forums as im sure uve seen ppl do many a time in the past.


----------



## Faster_is_better

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> So im thinking about mounting a couple of these to keep tabs on the water temps in my loop...
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/xspc-lcd-temperature-sensor-v2-green-g1-4-plug-sensor.html
> 
> anyone used these and if so how did they perform... they definately fit the green theme


They are quite handy, the 3 I have show really different temperature readouts so... they may not be very trustworthy but good for a glance to know where your system is at.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> I have a few of them that I use in test benches, and I have used that particular sensor in a couple of my builds. There seem to be some customer reports of screen issues, but all of mine have worked perfectly. The wiring is a little delicate, so you do have to handle them with some care - other than that they have been great.
> 
> 
> 
> I'm trying to figure out a good way to split the signal at the Molex and put something inline to a switch and possibly report two different temperatures from the same lcd with switching....I'll buy three in case I destroy one trying
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was thinking a three position switch splitting the reporting wires...one going to a plug the other to an ambient temp sensor to know delta with the flip of a switch and fast math
Click to expand...

Splitting the actual sensors would probably be the best, although each sensor has 2 wires and I'm not sure how exactly they work, if you break a wire and resolder it somewhere else if that will influence its temperature readout.

I actually took one of these apart and modified it a bit, they are really sensitive, so if you can avoid opening one up and switching sensors only that would probably be ideal. (actually i documented my mod here.)


----------



## Mr0czny

Evolv ATX + Predator 240 + cardboard mod


----------



## TheMadHatta

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr0czny*
> 
> Evolv ATX + Predator 240 + cardboard mod


Very interesting but is cardboard really any good at all for insulating anything? Or is it simply to help seperate the air flow.
If im not mistaken you wanna keep in mind terbulant air cools faster so if it may not be the best bet to seal it off like that.
I personally like having it as open as possible, since hot air is gonna take the easiest path out id be wanting to facilitate that.
Either way it looks like its not a bad idea, i just wish u painted the glaring cardboard on the top thats most visable. Honestly id let passive air be pulled up there if ur exhausting it would help the case out.
Either way very unique now u just gotta get it done with some sheets of aluminum so you can make it look professional


----------



## mfknjadagr8

So I know this was a big issue back in the beginning with screws and things coming loose in shipping...the accessories box was duly secured in both my pro and primo so they've gotten this part taken care of...I noticed no damage on the new case but there were two qc issues that are minor but I could see then being an issue if handing was worse both of them involved screws being lose in the box from their respective places...they weren't stripped or forced out which leads me to believe they were never fully tightened...not an issue in my case but against a window or front panel it could've damaged them....

The only other issue I've found so far is the rubber feet the rear psu sits on for of the six are fairly loose I haven't pulled the bottom panel yet but they should easily be tightened back up

Edit: another small issue is the bracket for the bottom hard drive cage the screw missed it's mark and had to chase the hole...unfortunately this cross threaded the hole a bit...and damaged some paint...not a huge issue


----------



## Phantasia

Maybe send in those photos to phanteks and see what they think.

I'm waiting for a full front panel for my enthoo luxe just due to some small marks on the front.


----------



## smithydan

Galaxy Silver $170 normal and $160 AR
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811854025&cm_re=phanteks_evolv_atx-_-11-854-025-_-Product

Pro M $70 on amazon
http://www.amazon.com/Phanteks-Enthoo-Tower-Chassis-PH-ES515P_BK/dp/B011A2LWZI/ref=sr_1_10?ie=UTF8&qid=1452637813&sr=8-10&keywords=phanteks+evolv+atx


----------



## mfknjadagr8

These aren't big enough issues to warrant an rma claim to me...I also found another minor one with the windowed panel...


Spoiler: reveal




For comparison




For those wondering how green the primo is


Spoiler: green







And finally the primo with front panel removed


Spoiler: solid panel



before

After



Need to decide if I want to replace the mesh or just buy rubber plugs to fill the holes...that said I'm thoroughly impressed with the panels themselves they are robust and much thicker gauging than I expected...coming from the pro the aluminum panels are a welcomed change...the magnetic filters are superb...however the filters in the bottom seem flimsy compared to the whole rest of the case...also the biggest thing I wish was different was there are rivets holding the 5.25 bays instead of screws like the pro has...i was hoping this had been remedied in this se revision but I guess not...my last little nitpick is the filter on the front is spaced about an 1/8 to 3/16 from the frame meaning a slight amount of dust could circumvent it...but I have to say its very nice in nearly every regard...


----------



## Drunkenfrog

Hi all!

I am hoping you guys might be able to help me out...

I have just got a phanteks ethos primo black/white special edition V2.

I did however pick it up from eBay... Got it at a decent price but have come across a breakage I wasn't aware of.
Basically all of the clips that hold the removable front section of the case to the main chassi have been snapped clean off. Every single one except the two that connect in to the top removable section.

I really hope that makes sense.

I am guessing it somehow happened in transit.

Can anyone think of a way I can at least get a couple of the clips working/replaced so the front section is secure the best I can come up with is using a resin style glue to try re glue the old clips back to the remove able panel but I am a bit skeptical if that will hold.

Is a drastic solution is there anywhere in the UK I might be able to get hold of a new or replacement front?

I can provide plenty of photos tomorrow evening of the breaks if that will help.

I am seriously gutted I have been well looking forward to getting my hands on one of these.

Thanks in advance!


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Drunkenfrog*
> 
> Hi all!
> 
> I am hoping you guys might be able to help me out...
> 
> I have just got a phanteks ethos primo black/white special edition V2.
> 
> I did however pick it up from eBay... Got it at a decent price but have come across a breakage I wasn't aware of.
> Basically all of the clips that hold the removable front section of the case to the main chassi have been snapped clean off. Every single one except the two that connect in to the top removable section.
> 
> I really hope that makes sense.
> 
> I am guessing it somehow happened in transit.
> 
> Can anyone think of a way I can at least get a couple of the clips working/replaced so the front section is secure the best I can come up with is using a resin style glue to try re glue the old clips back to the remove able panel but I am a bit skeptical if that will hold.
> 
> Is a drastic solution is there anywhere in the UK I might be able to get hold of a new or replacement front?
> 
> I can provide plenty of photos tomorrow evening of the breaks if that will help.
> 
> I am seriously gutted I have been well looking forward to getting my hands on one of these.
> 
> Thanks in advance!


someone here can link you to the clips that people have been replacing those with...pictures would be great so they know if it's the whole assembly or just the clips


----------



## MR-e

Does anyone know whether the Asus Z170 Impact VIII board will fit the Evolv ITX? More specifically, if I install a 280mm AIO cooler in the top, the the daughter board on the Impact be obstructed?

Thanks!


----------



## clarifiante

hi all glad to know a place exists where us phanteks lovers can get together. i am a proud owner of a phanteks enthoo evolv atx.

there are a couple of things i'd like to find out more about:

1. case fans

i currently have 3x120mm front intake fans, 2x140mm with a H110i GTX radiator as top exhaust and 1x140mm as rear exhaust. i have them connected via the PWM hub given with the case and i can't seem to control the fan curves/speeds with my mobo - ASUS rampage VIII hero. is there a way around this?

2. radiator filter

as mentioned, i have a 280mm radiator on top, one gripe with this case is that the top doesn't have a filter, so i'm contemplating buying a custom cut 280mm ferrous filter and then place it on top of the mount for the radiator. does anyone have experience with this? is it ok?

thanks!


----------



## Cozmo85

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *clarifiante*
> 
> hi all glad to know a place exists where us phanteks lovers can get together. i am a proud owner of a phanteks enthoo evolv atx.
> 
> there are a couple of things i'd like to find out more about:
> 
> 1. case fans
> 
> i currently have 3x120mm front intake fans, 2x140mm with a H110i GTX radiator as top exhaust and 1x140mm as rear exhaust. i have them connected via the PWM hub given with the case and i can't seem to control the fan curves/speeds with my mobo - ASUS rampage VIII hero. is there a way around this?
> 
> 2. radiator filter
> 
> as mentioned, i have a 280mm radiator on top, one gripe with this case is that the top doesn't have a filter, so i'm contemplating buying a custom cut 280mm ferrous filter and then place it on top of the mount for the radiator. does anyone have experience with this? is it ok?
> 
> thanks!


I just use my top rad as an exhaust. The top front fan will feed cool air to it.


----------



## dredeziel1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *clarifiante*
> 
> hi all glad to know a place exists where us phanteks lovers can get together. i am a proud owner of a phanteks enthoo evolv atx.
> 
> there are a couple of things i'd like to find out more about:
> 
> 1. case fans
> 
> i currently have 3x120mm front intake fans, 2x140mm with a H110i GTX radiator as top exhaust and 1x140mm as rear exhaust. i have them connected via the PWM hub given with the case and i can't seem to control the fan curves/speeds with my mobo - ASUS rampage VIII hero. is there a way around this?
> 
> 2. radiator filter
> 
> as mentioned, i have a 280mm radiator on top, one gripe with this case is that the top doesn't have a filter, so i'm contemplating buying a custom cut 280mm ferrous filter and then place it on top of the mount for the radiator. does anyone have experience with this? is it ok?
> 
> thanks!


Would you mind showing us Pics?


----------



## clarifiante

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dredeziel1*
> 
> Would you mind showing us Pics?


of the filter? i'm looking at something similar to this http://www.demcifilter.com/c173/EX-280.aspx


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *clarifiante*
> 
> hi all glad to know a place exists where us phanteks lovers can get together. i am a proud owner of a phanteks enthoo evolv atx.
> 
> there are a couple of things i'd like to find out more about:
> 
> 1. case fans
> 
> i currently have 3x120mm front intake fans, 2x140mm with a H110i GTX radiator as top exhaust and 1x140mm as rear exhaust. i have them connected via the PWM hub given with the case and i can't seem to control the fan curves/speeds with my mobo - ASUS rampage VIII hero. is there a way around this?
> 
> 2. radiator filter
> 
> as mentioned, i have a 280mm radiator on top, one gripe with this case is that the top doesn't have a filter, so i'm contemplating buying a custom cut 280mm ferrous filter and then place it on top of the mount for the radiator. does anyone have experience with this? is it ok?
> 
> thanks!


I'm curious why you want a filter when you are using the top as exhaust?


----------



## clarifiante

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rfarmer*
> 
> I'm curious why you want a filter when you are using the top as exhaust?


figured it might downplay dust collection in the rad


----------



## Kurrgen

After a year of soaking up everything I could find about watercooling and case mods...my Enthoo Pro M Build is complete! As soon as that case was released, I just had to have it for my build...it is gorgeous to me. I DO wish the full acrylic version was available right away, but I think a full acrylic side-panel mod may be in the future.


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kurrgen*
> 
> After a year of soaking up everything I could find about watercooling and case mods...my Enthoo Pro M Build is complete! As soon as that case was
> released, I just had to have it for my build...it is gorgeous to me. I DO wish the full acrylic version was available right away, but I think a full acrylic side-panel mod may be in the future.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I would say that was a year well spent, that is a beautiful build.


----------



## dredeziel1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rfarmer*
> 
> I would say that was a year well spent, that is a beautiful build.


I Agree 100 percent..well done..


----------



## Kurrgen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rfarmer*
> 
> I would say that was a year well spent, that is a beautiful build.


Thank you. That year of learning new things is still ongoing, but I have my new system now and it was fantastic putting it all together.
Once I had all the parts, it was about a month and a half of build time. Have been very pleased with it.


----------



## yamaharacer19

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kurrgen*
> 
> After a year of soaking up everything I could find about watercooling and case mods...my Enthoo Pro M Build is complete! As soon as that case was released, I just had to have it for my build...it is gorgeous to me. I DO wish the full acrylic version was available right away, but I think a full acrylic side-panel mod may be in the future.


B-E-A-UTIFUL build!!! Makes me want to move my 360 rad on the roof of my enthoo luxe closer to the door.


----------



## Haas360

Hey guys, new to Phantek cases. I have a question. I have an nzxt Phantom 820 which is by no
Means a casual case. But I need more watercooling freedom and the Enthoo Primo has all the features I want. Not my favorite design. But looks to be great.

Anyway, my question is. It seems like an old case, should I wait as they might come out with a newer version? Do you guys know anything about a refresh or new series?


----------



## 1Scotty1

Hey guys, I am in the same position as @Haas360 - but I have the NZXT H440 and I am planning a custom loop and would like more space to work in... is the Enthoo Evolv ATX a good choice?


----------



## Drunkenfrog

Hi managed to get a chance to take some photos today, as you can see along one side I have completely lost every push clip.


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Haas360*
> 
> Hey guys, new to Phantek cases. I have a question. I have an nzxt Phantom 820 which is by no
> Means a casual case. But I need more watercooling freedom and the Enthoo Primo has all the features I want. Not my favorite design. But looks to be great.
> 
> Anyway, my question is. It seems like an old case, should I wait as they might come out with a newer version? Do you guys know anything about a refresh or new series?


don't know if there is a Primo refresh coming.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *1Scotty1*
> 
> Hey guys, I am in the same position as @Haas360 - but I have the NZXT H440 and I am planning a custom loop and would like more space to work in... is the Enthoo Evolv ATX a good choice?


I went from the H440 to the Luxe myself. I would say the Evolv ATX doesn't make a lot of sense if you're looking for a bigger case as it's fairly compact. out of Phanteks cases I would recommend you make the same move I did and go with the Luxe.


----------



## 1Scotty1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PureBlackFire*
> 
> I went from the H440 to the Luxe myself. I would say the Evolv ATX doesn't make a lot of sense if you're looking for a bigger case as it's fairly compact. out of Phanteks cases I would recommend you make the same move I did and go with the Luxe.


I am not looking for bigger,but more watercooling friendly,more free space for watercooling equipment and a whole panel window. The Luxe wouldn't fit under my desk as the 750D which I was also suggested...


----------



## yamaharacer19

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *1Scotty1*
> 
> I am not looking for bigger,but more watercooling friendly,more free space for watercooling equipment and a whole panel window. The Luxe wouldn't fit under my desk as the 750D which I was also suggested...


What are your maximum dimensions and we can help you suggest a wc friendly case from Phanteks (or from another company)?


----------



## Faster_is_better

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rfarmer*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Kurrgen*
> 
> After a year of soaking up everything I could find about watercooling and case mods...my Enthoo Pro M Build is complete! As soon as that case was
> released, I just had to have it for my build...it is gorgeous to me. I DO wish the full acrylic version was available right away, but I think a full acrylic side-panel mod may be in the future.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I would say that was a year well spent, that is a beautiful build.
Click to expand...

Just what I was thinking, that is a great looking build!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Drunkenfrog*
> 
> Hi managed to get a chance to take some photos today, as you can see along one side I have completely lost every push clip.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


That is a real weakness for the Primo IMO, those round push in clips are really brittle and the case can easily break them during shipping. My brand new one had several broken...

You could try piecing back some of them with some PVC glue, but really with all of them or most of them broken off a whole new front panel would probably be best.. Phanteks is really good about providing spare parts but this one may not be that cheap and shipping could be worse depending on where you live.


----------



## 1Scotty1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yamaharacer19*
> 
> What are your maximum dimensions and we can help you suggest a wc friendly case from Phanteks (or from another company)?


My maximum dimensions are: (H)51cm x (W)23cm... The length of the case I have now is 48cm but there is a lot of room still,so over 55cm is still feasible, thanks for your help


----------



## shilka

Took my last two Phanteks 140mm fans that came with the case out and installed another two Noctua NF-A14 FLX fans i got a few days ago.
Got a Noctua NH-D15S to replace my NH-U12S but wont have time to install that untill tomorrow.

Going to clean the Luxe as well as it has gotten a bit dusty.


----------



## Coydog

New to the forum but for my first true enthusiast grade build I went with a Phanteks Enthoo Evolv ATX. I got most of the parts I want, just waiting to upgrade PSU, GPU and then to a better CPU for OCing (not sure if going i5 or i7, yet)

As it sits today



Wiring. Not the best but the flat cables are a PITA, one of the first upgrades I will get is a new PSU (Looking at EVGA G2)


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Coydog*
> 
> New to the forum but for my first true enthusiast grade build I went with a Phanteks Enthoo Evolv ATX. I got most of the parts I want, just waiting to upgrade PSU, GPU and then to a better CPU for OCing
> I will get is a new PSU (Looking at EVGA G2)


Your system with that video card is so low power that a good 400 watt PSU could power it
Welcome to OCN by the way.


----------



## Coydog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> Your system with that video card is so low power that a good 400 watt PSU could power it
> Welcome to OCN by the way.


I know that, and as I said I want to wait for Pascal/Polaris to come out since that is when I'll be able to afford the GPU upgrade. If I could I'd go out and grab a GTX 980 Ti right now, but I can't. The PSU, the Intel SSD, the WD Cavier and Hyper 212 were all scrounged from my old build.

Next upgrade plans:
EVGA G2 - Current PSU is over 5 yrs old. Also flat cables are sucking for cable routing).
New GPU
New CPU
Watercooling Loop.

And thank you for the welcome. I cut my teeth on OCing back in the old Celeron 333 days.


----------



## Triniboi82

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kurrgen*
> 
> After a year of soaking up everything I could find about watercooling and case mods...my Enthoo Pro M Build is complete! As soon as that case was released, I just had to have it for my build...it is gorgeous to me. I DO wish the full acrylic version was available right away, but I think a full acrylic side-panel mod may be in the future.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


That is truly gorgeous, well worth the time you took to get it done. My kinda build, simple & elegant.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *1Scotty1*
> 
> Hey guys, I am in the same position as @Haas360 - but I have the NZXT H440 and I am planning a custom loop and would like more space to work in... is the Enthoo Evolv ATX a good choice?


Have the evolv atx and while it is watercooling friendly if you have large rads like a 360 you will find it to be a bit cramped. 240s/280s however are fine and should be a breeze to work with. I posted a pic of mines a couple pages back with my 360 mounted up top and I had no room for a 3rd fan, the top of my res/pump mount is almost touching the rad, there is no space up top to mount fans so push/pull is out of the question. It can done in the front but you lose the option to mount any HDDs and use the preinstalled mounting points for a res. Kinda regret purchasing this case due to these issues and wish I went with one of the larger ones. But I loved the design more than the others which is why I took a chance with it.


----------



## Coydog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Triniboi82*
> 
> Have the evolv atx and while it is watercooling friendly if you have large rads like a 360 you will find it to be a bit cramped. 240s/280s however are fine and should be a breeze to work with. I posted a pic of mines a couple pages back with my 360 mounted up top and I had no room for a 3rd fan, the top of my res/pump mount is almost touching the rad, there is no space up top to mount fans so push/pull is out of the question. It can done in the front but you lose the option to mount any HDDs and use the preinstalled mounting points for a res. Kinda regret purchasing this case due to these issues and wish I went with one of the larger ones. But I loved the design more than the others which is why I took a chance with it.


I went and saw your build and it is VERY similiar to my planned loop I wish to eventually do.

First off, since I plan on only cooling the CPU, how do you think a thin 360 would do as far as cooling? Since this is a mid tower want to try and minimize the rad size if possible to keep it rather clean looking.

Another thing is what rez did you end up using ? I keep going between a XSPC Photon because I like the look, but want something that is functional and able to put in a drain plug.


----------



## Triniboi82

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Coydog*
> 
> I went and saw your build and it is VERY similiar to my planned loop I wish to eventually do.
> 
> First off, since I plan on only cooling the CPU, how do you think a thin 360 would do as far as cooling? Since this is a mid tower want to try and minimize the rad size if possible to keep it rather clean looking.
> 
> Another thing is what rez did you end up using ? I keep going between a XSPC Photon because I like the look, but want something that is functional and able to put in a drain plug.


A decent 240 will be more than enough for only the cpu, 360 isn't really necessary unless you planning to add the gpu to the loop later perhaps? As for the res I'm using the primochill ctr phase II, due to how my loop is setup gonna add my drain to the lower outlet on the ek bridge, I'll post a pic when I redo it. Waiting on a new psu which has put me on pause for the moment


----------



## sk1881

Hi all,

Can somebody help me with this question.

Does anybody know if the Phantek Luxe will take a 60mm thick rad (specifically the EK Coolstream XE360) with push and pull configuration on top?

I am looking to place a X99 motherboard (ATX or E-ATX) but is unsure on whether or not it will fit. My biggest concern is the CPU power connector situated at the top of the motherboard (see pic)?

Also, am I limited to low profile RAM modules (e.g. Corsair Vengeance LPX) or can I go for the higher modules like Corsair Dominator?

Lastly, if I remove the plastic cover and add a EK Monoblock would this be an issue.

Many Thanks


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sk1881*
> 
> Hi all,
> 
> Can somebody help me with this question.
> 
> Does anybody know if the Phantek Luxe will take a 60mm thick rad (specifically the EK Coolstream XE360) with push and pull configuration on top?
> 
> I am looking to place a X99 motherboard (ATX or E-ATX) but is unsure on whether or not it will fit. My biggest concern is the CPU power connector situated at the top of the motherboard (see pic)?
> 
> Also, am I limited to low profile RAM modules (e.g. Corsair Vengeance LPX) or can I go for the higher modules like Corsair Dominator?
> 
> Lastly, if I remove the plastic cover and add a EK Monoblock would this be an issue.
> 
> Many Thanks


Unfortunately, the bottom fans will interfere with the 8-pin. A 45mm rad in push pull will fit, or 60mm with top mounted fans only.

This kind of negates the RAM question.


----------



## sk1881

Thanks for the quick reply.

Is this still the case for the Phantek Primo? I was hoping I can stick with the 60mm thick rad as test show this is one of the best radiators out there.

Are there any decent 45mm thick rads that anybody can recommend?

Thanks


----------



## shilka

Spoiler: Finally had time to install my NH-D15S and this is the results









CPU temps have dropped 4-6c in ilde alone.
One of the fan clip is bumping up againt the top video card so there is really not a ton of space left.


----------



## FrancisJF

Anyone who has Enthoo Evolv ITX case, can you confirm me if Corsair h80i gtx fits?


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FrancisJF*
> 
> Anyone who has Enthoo Evolv ITX case, can you confirm me if Corsair h80i gtx fits?


I have a 120mm radiator in the back fan mount and there is plenty of space, or you could mount it to the top radiator bracket.


----------



## ThePatriot81111

Do you have any clue if a Enthoo Evolv can be modified to take or will it take a MSI Godlike mother board. The specs are barely off. Really like the case. Please let me know if anyone has done this.


----------



## virtguy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ThePatriot81111*
> 
> Do you have any clue if a Enthoo Evolv can be modified to take or will it take a MSI Godlike mother board. The specs are barely off. Really like the case. Please let me know if anyone has done this.


I'd like to know this, too but my specs are a little further off. I'm using a MSI X99A XPower AC motherboard, which is 272mm. The Evolv ATX specs say it supports EATX up to 264mm. I'm wondering if the edge of the motherboard would only begin to overlap the grommets and I might be able to squeeze the cables thru or if it would just not fit at all.

Anyone tried a build with an oversized board?


----------



## PureBlackFire

seems a bit of a stretch. 



 is using a 264mm wide motherboard, the case's listed limit.


----------



## flynna3162581

my entho evolve itx with 110i gtx FITS LIKE A GLOVE


----------



## Danzle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *flynna3162581*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> my entho evolve itx with 110i gtx FITS LIKE A GLOVE


Do you have room to push the H110GTX mor towards the front? To mount a EVGA Hybrid in the back 120mm spot?


----------



## flynna3162581

nope the 240 just fits without bein able to put another 120 cooling solution in the bak


----------



## Danzle

It looks like a radiator would have space but the fan would be a outside pull mount.


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Danzle*
> 
> Do you have room to push the H110GTX mor towards the front? To mount a EVGA Hybrid in the back 120mm spot?


You could do it with a 240mm AIO. I used to have a Corsair h105 and a Corsair h50 mounted in mine.


----------



## Phantasia

Anyone owning the Enthoo Luxe, got a good idea on how to clean the front?

I got some dust accumulated from the fan pushing right there.

Maybe the image can help better.


----------



## 303869

Hi all, hope this is in the right place, has anyone used the evolv itx as a HTPC? Im looking to buy one for that purpose and a bit of gaming. I have looked at the RVZ02 but is a lot more expensive and requires an expensive sfx psu.

I think for the price the evolv itx is a well featured case and don't think it would look to bad in the living room. I know its not the smallest itx case out there but for the price, its good bang for buck! Does anyone have any experience using it as a HTPC?


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RyReZar*
> 
> Hi all, hope this is in the right place, has anyone used the evolv itx as a HTPC? Im looking to buy one for that purpose and a bit of gaming. I have looked at the RVZ02 but is a lot more expensive and requires an expensive sfx psu.
> 
> I think for the price the evolv itx is a well featured case and don't think it would look to bad in the living room. I know its not the smallest itx case out there but for the price, its good bang for buck! Does anyone have any experience using it as a HTPC?


I'm not sure what your question is.....are you asking if it can be low noise with a low powered CPU?


----------



## 303869

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> I'm not sure what your question is.....are you asking if it can be low noise with a low powered CPU?


Yeah sorry should of been more specific, has anyone had any experience using it with lower powered components? Do you think noise wise it would be acceptable as a HTPC?


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RyReZar*
> 
> Yeah sorry should of been more specific, has anyone had any experience using it with lower powered components? Do you think noise wise it would be acceptable as a HTPC?


You have room for full size components, including graphics card and psu which is nice. The included 200mm fan is very quite, as long as any fans you add are high quality you should have no problem. There is only room for 2X3.5 drives and 2X2.5 drives, if that is enough storage should work well for you. I use one as my gaming comp and like it a lot.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RyReZar*
> 
> Yeah sorry should of been more specific, has anyone had any experience using it with lower powered components? Do you think noise wise it would be acceptable as a HTPC?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rfarmer*
> 
> You have room for full size components, including graphics card and psu which is nice. The included 200mm fan is very quite, as long as any fans you add are high quality you should have no problem. There is only room for 2X3.5 drives and 2X2.5 drives, if that is enough storage should work well for you. I use one as my gaming comp and like it a lot.


I agree with @rfarmer on all points except one. The room for full size components, especially CPU cooler, gives you the advantage of being able to make it quieter. Depending on the CPU, you could even do a completely passive CPU cooler like the Macho Zero. Add in a GPU with fanless operation under low loads and you have a near silent PC.

The one place I _completely_ disagree is on the included 200mm. Like many here, I hate the fan. It's noisy and doesn't move enough air. Pull it out, pop in a pair of good quality 140mm and you will cut the noise down to just about nothing with greatly improved airflow.


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> I agree with @rfarmer on all points except one. The room for full size components, especially CPU cooler, gives you the advantage of being able to make it quieter. Depending on the CPU, you could even do a completely passive CPU cooler like the Macho Zero. Add in a GPU with fanless operation under low loads and you have a near silent PC.
> 
> The one place I _completely_ disagree is on the included 200mm. Like many here, I hate the fan. It's noisy and doesn't move enough air. Pull it out, pop in a pair of good quality 140mm and you will cut the noise down to just about nothing with greatly improved airflow.


I have heard that before, and while it might not move a lot of air mine is very quiet. Others may have not been that lucky.


----------



## 303869

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rfarmer*
> 
> You have room for full size components, including graphics card and psu which is nice. The included 200mm fan is very quite, as long as any fans you add are high quality you should have no problem. There is only room for 2X3.5 drives and 2X2.5 drives, if that is enough storage should work well for you. I use one as my gaming comp and like it a lot.


Thanks, yeah storage is fine I'm using a NAS primarily for my media but would like a 2.5 for OS + 3.5 for game storage so that's fine.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> I agree with @rfarmer on all points except one. The room for full size components, especially CPU cooler, gives you the advantage of being able to make it quieter. Depending on the CPU, you could even do a completely passive CPU cooler like the Macho Zero. Add in a GPU with fanless operation under low loads and you have a near silent PC.
> 
> The one place I _completely_ disagree is on the included 200mm. Like many here, I hate the fan. It's noisy and doesn't move enough air. Pull it out, pop in a pair of good quality 140mm and you will cut the noise down to just about nothing with greatly improved airflow.


Good point about making it quieter, I did look at the fanless seasonic series for power supply but is out of budget unfortunately.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rfarmer*
> 
> I have heard that before, and while it might not move a lot of air mine is very quiet. Others may have not been that lucky.


Hmm ok, may be luck of the draw then, well i'll see what its like and then if its a noisy one, will opt for some Noctua fans I think, have used them in the past and are the quietest/best quality fans I've ever used.


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RyReZar*
> 
> Thanks, yeah storage is fine I'm using a NAS primarily for my media but would like a 2.5 for OS + 3.5 for game storage so that's fine.
> Good point about making it quieter, I did look at the fanless seasonic series for power supply but is out of budget unfortunately.
> Hmm ok, may be luck of the draw then, well i'll see what its like and then if its a noisy one, will opt for some Noctua fans I think, have used them in the past and are the quietest/best quality fans I've ever used.


You might check out the EVGA G2 Supernova power supplies. They have an Eco mode where the fan doesn't spin up until needed. Mine almost never comes on, good quality gold rated too.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rfarmer*
> 
> I have heard that before, and while it might not move a lot of air mine is very quiet. Others may have not been that lucky.


Well, it is quiet if you leave it at really low speeds....but what good is a fan that isn't moving enough air?


----------



## Cozmo85

Anyone have an image of a front mount 60mm 360 rad in the Evolv ATX or Pro M?


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cozmo85*
> 
> Anyone have an image of a front mount 60mm 360 rad in the Evolv ATX or Pro M?


fixall put the EK Predator 360 kit in the front of his Evolv ATX. the unit is 415 mm long and 68 mm thick. 



 has a ST30 280 rad in the top and a ST30 360 rad in the front. here's a pic from proclockers Evolv ATX review showing a 360 rad in front. hope that helps.


----------



## chann3l

Can I join the club


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chann3l*
> 
> Can I join the club


your build reminds me of a sunrise...I like that


----------



## chann3l

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cozmo85*
> 
> Anyone have an image of a front mount 60mm 360 rad in the Evolv ATX or Pro M?


My build uses a 60mm Ek xe 360 on the front. Pics are 2 posts up.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> your build reminds me of a sunrise...I like that


Thanks! The orange leds I use tend to look very close to sunlight. I had them in my previous build and lookinh at them put a smile on my face lol.


----------



## Cozmo85

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chann3l*
> 
> My build uses a 60mm Ek xe 360 on the front. Pics are 2 posts up.


Thats the exact rad im going to have. Which side of the front fan mount do you have the fans on? Are they directly on the radiator or is the fan mount sandwiched between them?

Is there room to wall mount the res between the radiator and the motherboard area? Any other pics?


----------



## chann3l

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cozmo85*
> 
> Thats the exact rad im going to have. Which side of the front fan mount do you have the fans on? Are they directly on the radiator or is the fan mount sandwiched between them?
> 
> Is there room to wall mount the res between the radiator and the motherboard area? Any other pics?


The fans are mounted with the mount between them and the rad, there is room to mount the fans either way if you wanted though. If you mount the fans on the outside of the mount you should have room to mount a res on the face of the rad. I didn't because of how i wanted to route everything

I have more pics on my build log but ill just cross post them and keep it in the same thread







Those are the only 3 that really let you see what kind of space there is but the full log is here
http://www.overclock.net/t/1588229/build-log-x99-the-foundry-phanteks-evolv-atx

It is a very easy case to work with


----------



## Cozmo85

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chann3l*
> 
> The fans are mounted with the mount between them and the rad, there is room to mount the fans either way if you wanted though. If you mount the fans on the outside of the mount you should have room to mount a res on the face of the rad. I didn't because of how i wanted to route everything
> 
> I have more pics on my build log but ill just cross post them and keep it in the same thread
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Those are the only 3 that really let you see what kind of space there is but the full log is here
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1588229/build-log-x99-the-foundry-phanteks-evolv-atx
> 
> It is a very easy case to work with


Perfect. Thanks for all the help. This is my first WC build.


----------



## chann3l

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cozmo85*
> 
> Perfect. Thanks for all the help. This is my first WC build.


No problem, if you have any other questions related to water cooling feel free to pm me.


----------



## Willius

Ordered myself a Evolv itx to replace my 250D As HTPC case. Can't wait for it


----------



## Fantomau

love my Luxe


----------



## 10ares92

i just bought a new phanteks enthoo primo and want to start watercool my rig as soon as possible
i just wanted to know if anybody knows which radiatorthickness is possible on the radiator sidebracket (push, pull or both) if i also install a 480mm radiator on the bottom of the case?


----------



## Faster_is_better

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chann3l*
> 
> Can I join the club
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Is that top plastic honeycomb grill bent or just optical illusion? I like the color scheme, nice work


----------



## chann3l

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Faster_is_better*
> 
> Is that top plastic honeycomb grill bent or just optical illusion? I like the color scheme, nice work


Haha its not an optical illusion, the sleeving on the fan is in the way. Its going to be changing though anyway. Im adding a thin 240 up top. I'm not quite satisfied with temps. Cpu temp is great but at 4.5ghz and 1.3v under heavy stress testing water temps are reaching 38 degrees and I feel im saturating the 360 rad as my gpu temps under load are at 56 where in my previous build with a 240 and 360 i never exceeded 45. Thanks though! Ill be sure to post new pics in a coulple weeks.


----------



## chas1723

I have a Primo and am wondering which LEDs does everyone use? I was wanting to use the LED button on the case to turn them on and off if possible.

Sent from my VS986 using Tapatalk


----------



## Rahldrac

Bah, tried fitting an Hardware Labs - Black Ice SR2 Xtreme+ 480 MP at the bottom of the Primo, does not fit at all.


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rahldrac*
> 
> Bah, tried fitting an Hardware Labs - Black Ice SR2 Xtreme+ 480 MP at the bottom of the Primo, does not fit at all.


well, this has only been known for a couple of years now.


----------



## evilgrin

Just bought the phanteks luxe, got it off jet.com for $125. I used the coupon. I was torn between the Evolv ATX and the Luxe, but decided to go for slightly more space. I'm not a pro builder, and figured that more space was the better option.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *evilgrin*
> 
> Just bought the phanteks luxe, got it off jet.com for $125. I used the coupon. I was torn between the Evolv ATX and the Luxe, but decided to go for slightly more space. I'm not a pro builder, and figured that more space was the better option.


I love my Luxe.








Wish it had a little less restrictive mess and better airflow to bottom vents, but overall it's an amazing case.

First thing I did on mine was tape the two bottom filters together. This way I can pull both the vent and PSU filters out the front to clean them and never have to move case!








Been awhile sense I did it. Can't remember if it was just a tape and pull or if anything else was needed. If there was anything else is wasn't much, but if you have any problems, hollar!


----------



## evilgrin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> I love my Luxe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wish it had a little less restrictive mess and better airflow to bottom vents, but overall it's an amazing case.
> 
> First thing I did on mine was tape the two bottom filters together. This way I can pull both the vent and PSU filters out the front to clean them and never have to move case!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Been awhile sense I did it. Can't remember if it was just a tape and pull or if anything else was needed. If there was anything else is wasn't much, but if you have any problems, hollar!


Cool, thanks for the tip! I'll definately try that.


----------



## Phantasia

Quick update:

Received my new front panel from Phanteks europe for my Enthoo Luxe. Also 2 rubber feet as 1 was missing.

Excelent service from Phanteks in Europe. Overall it took around 2 weeks for everything to be taken care of, since my first email to Phanteks.

The front even brought a new filter as well, only the 5.25 bay covers were not included.

If Phanteks reads this topic. My thanks for an impecable customer service.

I'm going to drop them an email to let them know that I got it and everything is ok and also send them in this thread as well.

Cheers.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

im hoping the rads get here soon.. i have the phobya g changer 480 for the bottom now and the ek xtc 420 on the top.. and at least the h220x on the side mount..gonna try and squeeze in the 280 too dunno though 5.25s are probably in the way.... anyhow should be cooler soon and a little greener


----------



## Danzle

What's the spacing between front panel and dustfilter on the evolv itx?


----------



## Coydog

Those that have the Evolv ATX, anyone replace the front fans with different ones to help improve airflow? Just asking as I start to tweak my machine some. Still a baby when it comes to truly getting into airflow and optimizing cooling and the like.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Coydog*
> 
> Those that have the Evolv ATX, anyone replace the front fans with different ones to help improve airflow? Just asking as I start to tweak my machine some. Still a baby when it comes to truly getting into airflow and optimizing cooling and the like.


You will be hard pressed to find better 140mm case fans than the included 140SP. I switched over to three 120MP, but only due to having a 240mm radiator in the front.


----------



## Coydog

Thanks.


----------



## JbstormburstADV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> You will be hard pressed to find better 140mm case fans than the included 140SP. I switched over to three 120MP, but only due to having a 240mm radiator in the front.


Yeah, the only fans that might be able to outclass the PH-140SPs outright are the EK Vardar F4-140ER off of my head, as well as whatever is offered by Noctua and Noiseblocker in the same catergory.


----------



## Triniboi82

Build almost completed for now, ended up losing a gpu in the process so have to wait for an rma then re-add it to the loop. Despite my minor gripes with the case I'm very pleased with the evolv atx and whatever future builds I do will definitely be looking at phanteks cases first.


----------



## Coydog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JbstormburstADV*
> 
> Yeah, the only fans that might be able to outclass the PH-140SPs outright are the EK Vardar F4-140ER off of my head, as well as whatever is offered by Noctua and Noiseblocker in the same catergory.


I looked up the Phanteks fan and they are rated +/-250 1200 RPM. So can be as high as 1450 RPM but also as low as 950 RPM. So, still would be fine or would something like the Vardar 1600 RPM be better?


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Coydog*
> 
> I looked up the Phanteks fan and they are rated +/-250 1200 RPM. So can be as high as 1450 RPM but also as low as 950 RPM. So, still would be fine or would something like the Vardar 1600 RPM be better?


I have somewhere around 30 of the 140SP. Every single one of them is 1200 RPM or better.


----------



## Coydog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> I have somewhere around 30 of the 140SP. Every single one of them is 1200 RPM or better.


Ok. I was going by the tech specs on the Phanteks page.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JbstormburstADV*
> 
> Yeah, the only fans that might be able to outclass the PH-140SPs outright are the EK Vardar F4-140ER off of my head, as well as whatever is offered by Noctua and Noiseblocker in the same catergory.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Coydog*
> 
> I looked up the Phanteks fan and they are rated +/-250 1200 RPM. So can be as high as 1450 RPM but also as low as 950 RPM. So, still would be fine or would something like the Vardar 1600 RPM be better?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> I have somewhere around 30 of the 140SP. Every single one of them is 1200 RPM or better.


The +/-rpm is more about system control than what fan rpm is at 12v. Some mobos' supply almost 13v and others only 11.5v. Combine that with grill, filter, etc. resistance and user seens speeds from about 1100-1400rpm.









While the PH-F140SP is a very good fan (I'm using about a dozen of them) there are better fans. But for their intended purpose a case case they are very good. To me the only down side is they are not PWM, and with Phanteks' PWM _controlled_ fan hub that is not a problem . I really wish Phanteks would change their miss-guided naming of that hub.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> The +/-rpm is more about system control than what fan rpm is at 12v. Some mobos' supply almost 13v and others only 11.5v. Combine that with grill, filter, etc. resistance and user seens speeds from about 1100-1400rpm.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> While the PH-F140SP is a very good fan (I'm using about a dozen of them) there are better fans. *But for their intended purpose a case case they are very good.* To me the only down side is they are not PWM, and with Phanteks' PWM _controlled_ fan hub that is not a problem . I really wish Phanteks would change their miss-guided naming of that hub.


This is the important aspect. You go out and spend ~$50 on a pair of fans rated for 2 dB lower with 3 CFM higher and install them in the case. The net result is......you are $50 poorer and have exactly the same temps and noise levels. Why? Simply because you are at the quality level where you are splitting hairs, and at the point of diminishing returns on your investment. You (collective, not doyll specifically) have an excellent quality fan, while there may be better fans made, they will not necessarily net you anything when put them into the application.


----------



## KS81

I was wondering if anyone know if there is any thickness limitations for a 420 (3*140) radiator, top-mounted in the Phanteks Enthoo Pro (with low profile RAM)?

Here is a quick picture of my Phanteks Enthoo EVOLV mATX btw. Not done yet....


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KS81*
> 
> I was wondering if anyone know if there is any thickness limitations for a 420 (3*140) radiator, top-mounted in the Phanteks Enthoo Pro (with low profile RAM)?
> 
> Here is a quick picture of my Phanteks Enthoo EVOLV mATX btw. Not done yet....


There really isn't one....but, keep in mind that it will cover your CPU block at a certain point, which is really inconvenient and requires 90 degree adapters on the block in many cases. A 60mm rad with one set of fans hangs right near the middle of the CPU block.


----------



## KS81

Thank you - good info! I really dont mind having it hang over the CPU block, a couple of 90 degree angles is not that big of a deal with a good pump. I think I prefere the larger radiator-surface over the inconvenience. In my opinion radiators that have fans pushing air into the case is sub-optimal, because it really heats up the entire case. This is one of the major problems with my current mATX, it gets really hot and my 950 Pro M.2 is cooking. I could always have all fans push air out of the case, but this gives a lot of underpressure, dust buildup and actually also more noise (since the air has to find other ways into the case to feed the fans). So I think I will go for one large radiator in the top pushing air out. And then just normal fans in front to push air in. I could always go for a larger case, giving more room and options for radiator mounting, but I really dont need the large case ..


----------



## Cube Rhino

Has tried to fit the ekwb predator 240mm aio in the itx enthoo evolv?


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cube Rhino*
> 
> Has tried to fit the ekwb predator 240mm aio in the itx enthoo evolv?


There is 330mm of radiator space in the Evolv-iTX, EK Predator is 295mm. It will fit even with a rear exhaust fan.


----------



## KaffieneKing

@KS81 I have literally just finished watercooling in my EVOLV mATX, yours looks a lot better than mine









here is a pic I took yesterday of it, had to move the pump though, as it was rubbing on the PCIE screws and making an awful noise when the case door was shut. Its now on top of the GPU and inbetween the GPU and CPU tubing wise, looks awful but its soooo much quieter!



EDIT: Feedback appreciated!


----------



## KS81

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaffieneKing*
> 
> @KS81 I have literally just finished watercooling in my EVOLV mATX, yours looks a lot better than mine
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> here is a pic I took yesterday of it, had to move the pump though, as it was rubbing on the PCIE screws and making an awful noise when the case door was shut. Its now on top of the GPU and inbetween the GPU and CPU tubing wise, looks awful but its soooo much quieter!
> 
> EDIT: Feedback appreciated!


How do you refill and bleed your loop? Looks like you only have one port on top of res, and thats your inlet. Good job fitting your res/pump combo. I could never fit that with SLI so I had to go standalone pump and res. It took some cutting and ofc the 3,5" bays are gone. The only tip i would have to you is try not to cross hoses, and shorten them. What is that hose going upwards from the front rad?

Edit: Get a multiport top and a internal pipe in the res.


----------



## KaffieneKing

To fill with my PC on its side I just took the tube off the lid and the lid itself off the res, put the tube in a jug so any liquid going through the system would work its way into the jug (slowly filling and getting rid of bubbles, both of which were helped by the fact both rads were in their side) then with another jug filled the res, cycled the pump on and kept filing it swapping over the jugs when they got full... you make it seem like it was a bit of a hassle now I had to explain it all!









I too had to cut away to get the darkside rad in as it was too wide, and the thickness of the top rad ahs also limited me in res/pump mounting. The crossed tubes by the radiator don't bother me so much as they are not visible. Also I had to get rid of the inlet at the top as it is as it wouldnt fit, a multi inlet top defintely wouldnt fit!

However unfortunatly it now looks awful...

Here is what it looks like most of the time


And the true mess!


Not really 100% happy with it but I need it functional for now

I finished my all my exams and work for this semester and the next semester doesn't start till Feb so I will try and sort it out before then and return the pump/res to its original place of infront of the GPU

I may be able to find smaller alternative screws that do fit without touching the pump (wish I had thought of that earlier!)


----------



## shilka

Does anyone know if the frame of the Luxe is made of aluminum or steel? i am getting some better LED light strips and i wonder if a magnetic strip will stick to the frame of the Luxe?

CableMod sponsors YOUR build log!


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> Does anyone know if the frame of the Luxe is made of aluminum or steel? i am getting some better LED light strips and i wonder if a magnetic strip will stick to the frame of the Luxe?
> 
> CableMod sponsors YOUR build log!


----------



## doyll

Just curious, why did Phantek change their nice and complete specifications chart to the dinky grossly half asped thing now on their website? It's a huge step backwards in my opinion.









From this old thing to what ciarlatano posted above.


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*


Think i am going to play it safe and ask for foam based strips.
But thank you.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> Think i am going to play it safe and ask for foam based strips.
> But thank you.


Considering the case is steel but the bottom front and top panels are plastic with some metal inserts, having the strips is probably a good idea.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Just curious, why did Phantek change their nice and complete specifications chart to the dinky grossly half asped thing now on their website? It's a huge step backwards in my opinion.


The USA site has the expanded specs you show. The global site has the dinky specs. No clue as to why.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> The USA site has the expanded specs you show. The global site has the dinky specs. No clue as to why.


Well, end result is only American site tells potential buyer what product is.


----------



## Cube Rhino

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rfarmer*
> 
> There is 330mm of radiator space in the Evolv-iTX, EK Predator is 295mm. It will fit even with a rear exhaust fan.


Meant more the depth of the thing, since the predator is 68mm deep I'm worried there wont be space in the itx verison.
I have a 6700k and predator 240mm but no motherboard and I'm looking to move out of my HAF X into something that can fit nicely on my desk. Currently stuck between getting m-atx evolv or m-itx evolv.

Also, for anyone who owns this case how is radiator performance when top mounted? Seems to be little to no airflow capability up there.


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cube Rhino*
> 
> Meant more the depth of the thing, since the predator is 68mm deep I'm worried there wont be space in the itx verison.
> I have a 6700k and predator 240mm but no motherboard and I'm looking to move out of my HAF X into something that can fit nicely on my desk. Currently stuck between getting m-atx evolv or m-itx evolv.
> 
> Also, for anyone who owns this case how is radiator performance when top mounted? Seems to be little to no airflow capability up there.


No the depth is no problem, the radiator is offset enough not to cause clearance issues with ram or the motherboard. The top exhaust isn't the very best, but it isn't terrible either. I have a Swiftech H220-X top mounted and you can feel plenty of air exhausting from the case.


----------



## Cube Rhino

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rfarmer*
> 
> No the depth is no problem, the radiator is offset enough not to cause clearance issues with ram or the motherboard. The top exhaust isn't the very best, but it isn't terrible either. I have a Swiftech H220-X top mounted and you can feel plenty of air exhausting from the case.


Sweet thanks for the info! What kind of temps do you get with the H220-X? Pretty similar setup.


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cube Rhino*
> 
> Sweet thanks for the info! What kind of temps do you get with the H220-X? Pretty similar setup.


I have an additional 240mm radiator and gpu block in the loop. Ambient of 21C I idle at 28C and max is 55C while stress testing. Gaming temps are usually 45 - 50C.

When I originally got this case I had a Corsair h105 installed, that is 63mm thick with fans and I had no clearance issues with it.


----------



## japemo

Hi!!!

I have a doubt about free space above rail for rad to top case on Evolv ATX. Could you help me?

I attach a image with dimension to know.



Thanks anticipated!!!


----------



## KaffieneKing

Uh! So I got fed up of how much loop looked, bled it, moved the pump to the original location I had it and filled the loop (I also swapped out the PCI screws for smaller ones)

However it still *sometimes* made a hum where it was touching the GPU and I also wasn't happy with how I had a slight kink between the GPU and pump, so I re-bled the loop and moved the pump again and refilled this is my build just running the pump for now, had a little spillage over the mobo, got most of it off but leaving it for a day just in case I missed some bits.



Bit happier with it, much quieter and doesn't look as bad as it did the second time! Bit of a shame that beautiful CPU block is a bit blocked, but still pretty pleased! If I ever upgrade to a shorter GPU I'll move the pump to the front radiator!


----------



## clarifiante

i've got a enthoo evolv atx, but airflow seems to be a little lacklustre.

i run with a 980ti and i5-6600k oc @ 4.6 and it gets really hot when gaming.

i've got 3x120mm jetflos at full speed as intake, 1x140mm stock case fan in rear, and a h110i gtx with stock fans as exhaust.

was wondering if putting more fans within the case would help?


----------



## mfknjadagr8

im sorry this is off topic but my god is this thing cool

http://www.pcgamer.com/build-of-the-week-the-stagecoach/


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *clarifiante*
> 
> i've got a enthoo evolv atx, but airflow seems to be a little lacklustre.
> 
> i run with a 980ti and i5-6600k oc @ 4.6 and it gets really hot when gaming.
> 
> i've got 3x120mm jetflos at full speed as intake, 1x140mm stock case fan in rear, and a h110i gtx with stock fans as exhaust.
> 
> was wondering if putting more fans within the case would help?


I don't own a Evolv, but I want one.

Full system description please. We can't hekp without know what everything is.









I would be using stock PH-F140SP fans in front.
But I wouldn't be using H110, but a good air cooler.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> im sorry this is off topic but my god is this thing cool
> 
> http://www.pcgamer.com/build-of-the-week-the-stagecoach/


The coach is a nice model, but build accuracy is poor. Wheels are very poor representation of real ones. Maybe I'm too critical. I've repaired and used real coaches and other era buggies and wagons.
While I can appreciate all the work involved, I do not see the logic behind it. As a decorations the coach is nice. As a computer case it is a dust collecting ill cooling mess.


----------



## KaptainK

Hello,
Happy owner of a mATX Evolv, I would watercool my rig (I7 6700K + R9 390x Sapphire).
However I am disappointed by the possibilities of the case because I would like to heep at least one HDD securing it on the side plate. But it conflicts with the top radiator.
Is there a solution without modding the case?
Plus, Does someone know the space available for the front radiator when there is a DDC pump installed in the background ?

Thanks


----------



## KaffieneKing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaptainK*
> 
> Hello,
> Happy owner of a mATX Evolv, I would watercool my rig (I7 6700K + R9 390x Sapphire).
> However I am disappointed by the possibilities of the case because I would like to heep at least one HDD securing it on the side plate. But it conflicts with the top radiator.
> Is there a solution without modding the case?
> Plus, Does someone know the space available for the front radiator when there is a DDC pump installed in the background ?
> 
> Thanks


Not sure where you have been mounting a 3.5" HDD where it could conflict with a top rad, do you mind taking a picture?

It depeneds on what GPU you have as to how big a rad will fit. I also have a 290X (reference style, the triX model) and a 45mm *should* fit if just doing push but it'll be cutting it fine, I put a 30mm rad in the front of mine. If you should be fine getting a DDC down in the basement with a 30mm rad, if using the pump mount that came with the case, but I think you'll struggle to get a pump/res combo down there, as whilst fine did fit I couldn't use the top port due to GPU interference.

Also regarding front rads be careful on the width of the rad, I put a 240mm Black Ice Nemesis GTS240 in the front, but had to do a bit of dremeling due to the width, just something to keep in mind, so emasure before you buy!

EDIT: You could either get a 2.5" HDD and mount it behind the mobo, I have a WD green 2.5" 2TB drive there, alternatively you might be able to just mount one below the mobo/on top of the PSU


----------



## KaptainK

Thank you for help.

The 3.5" hdd will be installed, as shown on the manual, on the multifonctionnal side bracket. I already try with my Lepa aquacomputer and it conflict with it. I'm not home so I can't attach a picture.

The graphic card is the Tri-X version, but will be watercooled with the alphacool GPX WB.

I could buy a new 2.5" hdd, but for that price I could resell the evolv and buy a better case too.
And if I buy new HDD it will be to build a NAS


----------



## KaffieneKing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaptainK*
> 
> Thank you for help.
> 
> The 3.5" hdd will be installed, as shown on the manual, on the multifonctionnal side bracket. I already try with my Lepa aquacomputer and it conflict with it. I'm not home so I can't attach a picture.
> 
> The graphic card is the Tri-X version, but will be watercooled with the alphacool GPX WB.
> 
> I could buy a new 2.5" hdd, but for that price I could resell the evolv and buy a better case too.
> And if I buy new HDD it will be to build a NAS


Ah I also have that GPU and block, I dont use the side bracket personally but could you just not mount it lower down the bracket?

Also you should try mounting underneath the GPU or behind the PSU, both should be easily mounted with double sided tape or velcro tape if you dont want to mod the case.


----------



## clarifiante

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> I don't own a Evolv, but I want one.
> 
> Full system description please. We can't hekp without know what everything is.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I would be using stock PH-F140SP fans in front.
> But I wouldn't be using H110, but a good air cooler.
> The coach is a nice model, but build accuracy is poor. Wheels are very poor representation of real ones. Maybe I'm too critical. I've repaired and used real coaches and other era buggies and wagons.
> While I can appreciate all the work involved, I do not see the logic behind it. As a decorations the coach is nice. As a computer case it is a dust collecting ill cooling mess.


ah right my system specs are:

i5-6600k oc @ 4.6ghz @ 1.38
8x2 ripjaws v 2400 oc @ 3000 @ 1.38/1.2/1.2
asus hero viii rampage
hx850i psu
980ti gigabyte wf (non-g1) running custom g1 bios no extra oc


----------



## KaptainK

I will try it, thks


----------



## Cube Rhino

Anyone modded the top/front of the evolv case to add more airflow? Thinking about dremeling out the front+top and adding a grill mesh / makeshift dust filter for it and wanted to see if anyone had done it before.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cube Rhino*
> 
> Anyone modded the top/front of the evolv case to add more airflow? Thinking about dremeling out the front+top and adding a grill mesh / makeshift dust filter for it and wanted to see if anyone had done it before.


I know it has been said by some here that adding spacers to have the front sit about an inch forward does wonders. I have an EVOLV ATX, and see almost no measurable difference with the front on or off - no real airflow issues at all.


----------



## Cube Rhino

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> I know it has been said by some here that adding spacers to have the front sit about an inch forward does wonders. I have an EVOLV ATX, and see almost no measurable difference with the front on or off - no real airflow issues at all.


Ah I should have been more specific talking about the ITX version which arrives on thursday, so I'll do some testing then and see if it needs it


----------



## Strieng

Hi everyone, I'm super interested in a Phanteks case for a new build. Can anyone list me every Phanteks case that has all openings filtered? The Pro seems like a steal but unfortunately has the sides unfiltered


----------



## cr1

I decided to clean the dust from my Phanteks Pro this morning _(Phanteks Enthoo Pro PH-ES614P_BK)_

I had to use what I thought was too much force (pushing-in) the bottom HDD bay to line-up the two thumbscrews with the holes...

Is this normal for this case?

Thanks!


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cr1*
> 
> I decided to clean the dust from my Phanteks Pro this morning _(Phanteks Enthoo Pro PH-ES614P_BK)_
> 
> I had to use what I thought was too much force (pushing-in) the bottom HDD bay to line-up the two thumbscrews with the holes...
> 
> Is this normal for this case?
> 
> Thanks!


they are sort of rough sometimes...mine go in like butter one time and molasses another...the last little bit is rough the first 3/4 is smooth


----------



## cr1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> they are sort of rough sometimes...mine go in like butter one time and molasses another...the last little bit is rough the first 3/4 is smooth


That's it....same thing-

Thanks!


----------



## Cozmo85

Finally doing a real watercooling setup.


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaffieneKing*
> 
> Not sure where you have been mounting a 3.5" HDD where it could conflict with a top rad, do you mind taking a picture?
> 
> It depeneds on what GPU you have as to how big a rad will fit. I also have a 290X (reference style, the triX model) and a 45mm *should* fit if just doing push but it'll be cutting it fine, I put a 30mm rad in the front of mine. If you should be fine getting a DDC down in the basement with a 30mm rad, if using the pump mount that came with the case, but I think you'll struggle to get a pump/res combo down there, as whilst fine did fit I couldn't use the top port due to GPU interference.
> 
> Also regarding front rads be careful on the width of the rad, I put a 240mm Black Ice Nemesis GTS240 in the front, but had to do a bit of dremeling due to the width, just something to keep in mind, so emasure before you buy!
> 
> EDIT: You could either get a 2.5" HDD and mount it behind the mobo, I have a WD green 2.5" 2TB drive there, alternatively you might be able to just mount one below the mobo/on top of the PSU


I had the same thing happen with my Evol-iTX mounting the same radiator in front, had to do some dremeling. Guess I should have checked measurements.


----------



## Cube Rhino

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cozmo85*
> 
> Finally doing a real watercooling setup.


How thick is that rad? Sick layout man.


----------



## Cozmo85

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cube Rhino*
> 
> How thick is that rad? Sick layout man.


60mm. Its the EK XTX360


----------



## KaffieneKing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rfarmer*
> 
> I had the same thing happen with my Evol-iTX mounting the same radiator in front, had to do some dremeling. Guess I should have checked measurements.


It was annoying, but it was my own choice, I have an alphacool copper 240mm rad stiiting around that fits just fine, but matching rads...


----------



## Jasonm99

I'm currently hard pressed between the Evolv and the Luxe. I can't decide which case to go with. Does anyone know how well the default fan set up is on the Evlov compared to the default fan set up on the Luxe? How much worse would the air flow be on the Evolv since it seems more boxed. Basically, how does both case compare in airflow with the default fan set up?


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jasonm99*
> 
> I'm currently hard pressed between the Evolv and the Luxe. I can't decide which case to go with. Does anyone know how well the default fan set up is on the Evlov compared to the default fan set up on the Luxe? How much worse would the air flow be on the Evolv since it seems more boxed. Basically, how does both case compare in airflow with the default fan set up?


Its kind of a give and take. The Luxe is capable of better flow, but is hindered by the less than stellar 200mm intake. The EVOLV ATX has better intake fans, but more restriction and less exhaust. Throw a couple of good 140mm in the front of the Luxe and you have the best of everything.

I have both of these cases and am right now trying to decide which to keep. My dilemma is based around liquid components rather than airflow. If I was air cooling and basing the decision on performance, I would keep the Luxe without question.


----------



## doyll

While I don't have a Evolv I do have a Luxe. I'm all air cooling anyway .. until my fairy god-mother gives me something like the Swiftech H320 X2 Prestige.







I've looked at the Evolv and wondered if there is a way to space the front plate forward 10-15mm .. maybe space the clip-in mounting brackets off of cover could be done without too much trouble??. That would greatly improve airflow.


----------



## Jasonm99

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Its kind of a give and take. The Luxe is capable of better flow, but is hindered by the less than stellar 200mm intake. The EVOLV ATX has better intake fans, but more restriction and less exhaust. Throw a couple of good 140mm in the front of the Luxe and you have the best of everything.
> 
> I have both of these cases and am right now trying to decide which to keep. My dilemma is based around liquid components rather than airflow. If I was air cooling and basing the decision on performance, I would keep the Luxe without question.


If I were to not change the 200mm intake on the Luxe, would you say the airflow is still better over the Evolv and by how much? If both have ups and downs with their default fans and default fan set up, then straight out of the box airflow on both cases would be about the same?


----------



## michael-ocn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> While I don't have a Evolv I do have a Luxe. I'm all air cooling anyway .. until my fairy god-mother gives me something like the Swiftech H320 X2 Prestige.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've looked at the Evolv and wondered if there is a way to space the front plate forward 10-15mm. That would greatly improve airflow.


I have an Evolv, I do this alot...


The side door swings open, so if i know it'll be working very hard for a long time, i sometimes pop the side door open. I've thought about brining the front panel to a cnc machine to add some venting. I think it could look pretty nice.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jasonm99*
> 
> If I were to not change the 200mm intake on the Luxe, would you say the airflow is still better over the Evolv and by how much? If both have ups and downs with their default fans and default fan set up, then straight out of the box airflow on both cases would be about the same?


Straight out of the box the Luxe is a little better.


----------



## shilka

The front 200mm fan is pretty much useless so if you are getting a Luxe you should get rid of the 200mm fan.
Dual 120 or 140mm fans with good static pressure is so much better.


----------



## Jasonm99

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> The front 200mm fan is pretty much useless so if you are getting a Luxe you should get rid of the 200mm fan.
> Dual 120 or 140mm fans with good static pressure is so much better.


Could you explain why the 200mm fan in front as intake on the Luxe is useless? I thought that a larger fan will still move more air than two 140mm?


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jasonm99*
> 
> Could you explain why the 200mm fan in front as intake on the Luxe is useless? I thought that a larger fan will still move more air than two 140mm?


The bigger a fan is the lower the static pressure is which means it cant push the air it moves hard enough to get through the fiter HDD cages and everything else that is in the way.
The Phanteks 200mm fans has the same problem every other 200mm fan out there has the static pressure is too low which means most of the air flow is wasted and only a fraction of the air it moves actually get inside the case.

Dual 120mm or 140mm fans with higher static pressure moves way more air into the case as they can push it hard enough.
I saw my temps drop as much as 5c after i removed the useless 200mm fans and replaced it with 2x Noctua NF-A14 FLX fans.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jasonm99*
> 
> Could you explain why the 200mm fan in front as intake on the Luxe is useless? I thought that a larger fan will still move more air than two 140mm?


Because dual 140SP move 164 CFM with 1.33mm SP, while the 200SP is 110 cfm with only 1.04mm SP. The dual 140SP are quieter doing that, as well.

The "why it's useless" is simple - it doesn't move enough air. it doesn't have enough pressure and it is too loud. Many in this thread have complained about (and replaced) this fan. It was the first thing I did when I got the case.


----------



## doyll

What ciarlatano said









Designed properly a 200mm fan has the potential to be as good as 140mm or a 120mm.

The '140mm fans are not as good as 120mm fans' myth has been proven untrue. The '200mm fans are not any good' will be also be proven untrue in time.


----------



## Jasonm99

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> The bigger a fan is the lower the static pressure is which means it cant push the air it moves hard enough to get through the fiter HDD cages and everything else that is in the way.
> The Phanteks 200mm fans has the same problem every other 200mm fan out there has the static pressure is too low which means most of the air flow is wasted and only a fraction of the air it moves actually get inside the case.
> 
> Dual 120mm or 140mm fans with higher static pressure moves way more air into the case as they can push it hard enough.
> I saw my temps drop as much as 5c after i removed the useless 200mm fans and replaced it with 2x Noctua NF-A14 FLX fans.


Thanks for the information. What is the difference between the Noctua NF-A14 FLX and the Nactua NF-A14 PWM?


----------



## Jasonm99

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Because dual 140SP move 164 CFM with 1.33mm SP, while the 200SP is 110 cfm with only 1.04mm SP. The dual 140SP are quieter doing that, as well.
> 
> The "why it's useless" is simple - it doesn't move enough air. it doesn't have enough pressure and it is too loud. Many in this thread have complained about (and replaced) this fan. It was the first thing I did when I got the case.


What are the fans used in the Luxe? Is it the PH-F140SP? What 140mm fans would you recommend me to swap the 200mm fan with?


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jasonm99*
> 
> Thanks for the information. What is the difference between the Noctua NF-A14 FLX and the Nactua NF-A14 PWM?


The FLX uses a 3 pin connector and the PWM uses a 4 pin PWM connector and thats about it.
And please dont multi post you can edit your old post if you would like to add more or quote someone else.


----------



## Jasonm99

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> The FLX uses a 3 pin connector and the PWM uses a 4 pin PWM connector and thats about it.
> And please dont multi post you can edit your old post if you would like to add more or quote someone else.


Sorry for the double post, wish I can delete the 2nd post.









Will I be able to use the 4 pin connector on the Luxe?


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jasonm99*
> 
> Sorry for the double post, wish I can delete the 2nd post.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Will I be able to use the 4 pin connector on the Luxe?


The Luxe has a 4 pin PWM fan hub behind the motherboard tray so you can plug up to 6 fans into that.
The hub then has a single PWM cable you can plug into the motherboard so you dont use all your fan headers.

Looks like this and all you need to power it is a SATA power cable


Edit: 3 pin fans will also work with the hub as you can plug a 3 pin into a 4 pin but not vice versa.


----------



## evilgrin

I was trying to decide between the Luxe & Evolv ATX, for me it came down to more case space. I'm not the best builder, was worried about space and fittings things into it. Alot of the new CLC's work really well, and are totally plug and play. I also have an MSI Sea Hawk, to go along with whatever I stick on the CPU. My last case was a Haf 932, so much nicer. I'm over cases that look like toys.


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *evilgrin*
> 
> I was trying to decide between the Luxe & Evolv ATX, for me it came down to more case space. I'm not the best builder, was worried about space and fittings things into it. Alot of the new CLC's work really well, and are totally plug and play. I also have an MSI Sea Hawk, to go along with whatever I stick on the CPU. My last case was a Haf 932, so much nicer. I'm over cases that look like toys.


CLC coolers are overrated overhyped overpriced unreliable and loud.
You are almost alwasy better off with a good air cooler instead its better cheaper more reliable and more quiet.

A good CLC cooler does not exist so if you want an AIO you should look at the open ones from EK and Swiftech.


----------



## evilgrin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> CLC coolers are overrated overhyped overpriced unreliable and loud.
> You are almost alwasy better off with a good air cooler instead its better cheaper more reliable and more quiet.
> 
> A good CLC cooler does not exist so if you want an AIO you should look at the open ones from EK and Swiftech.


The ones Ive looked at the most are the Swiftech ones, I guess I meant I probably wont end upgrading it much at all.


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *evilgrin*
> 
> The ones Ive looked at the most are the Swiftech ones, I guess I meant I probably wont end upgrading it much at all.


CLC means closed liquid loop and the Swiftech ones are not closed if you where not already aware.
AIO means all in one so i assume you meant AIO and not CLC?


----------



## Jasonm99

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> The Luxe has a 4 pin PWM fan hub behind the motherboard tray so you can plug up to 6 fans into that.
> The hub then has a single PWM cable you can plug into the motherboard so you dont use all your fan headers.
> 
> Looks like this and all you need to power it is a SATA power cable
> 
> 
> Edit: 3 pin fans will also work with the hub as you can plug a 3 pin into a 4 pin but not vice versa.


Alright thanks, good to know I can use 4 pin connectors on the Luxe as the store I want to purchase from only has the NF-A14 PWM in-stock (they don't sell the NF-A14 FLX). It's the only Noctua and Phanteks case fan they sell.

That being said, what is the best fan set up I should go with? So two 140mm in the front, keep the 140mm at the rear, now should I move the 200mm to the top back (and moving the top back 140mm to the front)? Or buy another 140mm and just ditch 200mm?


----------



## yamaharacer19

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> The Luxe has a 4 pin PWM fan hub behind the motherboard tray so you can plug up to 6 fans into that.
> The hub then has a single PWM cable you can plug into the motherboard so you dont use all your fan headers.
> 
> Looks like this and all you need to power it is a SATA power cable
> 
> 
> Edit: 3 pin fans will also work with the hub as you can plug a 3 pin into a 4 pin but not vice versa.


This is from the manual of the Enthoo Luxe about the PWM splitter:

"The PWM hub functions optimally when modulated by a PWM signal from the motherboard, which will allow the greatest control range. However, not all 4-pin motherboard connectors implement the PWM signal modulation. Connecting the 4-pin to CPU_FAN For full PWM functionality, Phanteks' PWM hub requires users to connect the 4-pin connector to the "CPU_Fan" connector of the motherboard, because all motherboard manufacturers implements a PWM signal modulation on this connector. Connect the SATA 12V power to power the PWM hub. Not all motherboards have their CPU_Fan connector set on PWM signal modulation by default. Please consult your motherboard documentation for this matter. Connecting the 4-pin to other 4-pin header (besides the CPU_Fan).

Other 4-pin connectors can be found on modern motherboards besides the "CPU_Fan" connector (e.g. "CPU_Fan2", "CHA_Fan", "OPT_Fan"), however not all motherboard manufacturers implement a true PWMsignal modulation onto these connectors. These type of 4-pin connectors modulate the RPM by voltage, which has a smaller control range compared to modulation by true PWM signal. The 12V SATA power cable can not be used to power the PWM hub if connecting to these types of 4-pin connectors, due to the interference with the RPM regulation by voltage (resulting in the fans running on full RPM). The PWM hub will draw its power from the 4-pin connector, which is limited to a total device consuming 30W in total.

Important Note: 1 motherboard connector can only read 1 RPM signal. Therefore, the motherboard will only read the RPM signal from 1 device connected to Fan 1. The RPM from all other devices will be regulated according to FAN 1. Y-splitter should not be connected to FAN 1."


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jasonm99*
> 
> Alright thanks, good to know I can use 4 pin connectors on the Luxe as the store I want to purchase from only has the NF-A14 PWM in-stock (they don't sell the NF-A14 FLX). It's the only Noctua and Phanteks case fan they sell.
> 
> That being said, what is the best fan set up I should go with? So two 140mm in the front, keep the 140mm at the rear, now should I move the 200mm to the top back (and moving the top back 140mm to the front)? Or buy another 140mm and just ditch 200mm?


You cant use the 200mm fan anywhere else in the case as there are no mounts for it.
And you cant even reuse the fan ever again as you are pretty much going to have to cut its power cable ( i was forced to do this with my fan) otherwise you wont get the damm fan out.

Also note that my personal experience with the stock Phanteks fans is they make a ton of vibration noise when mounted in the top of the case.
Dont know if mine where somehow broken but they where so bad that the whole case would start shaking when the fans where cranked to max.

I replaced them so i have 5x of the same fans all NF-A14 FLX, 2x in the front and top and 1x in the back.


----------



## Jasonm99

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> You cant use the 200mm fan anywhere else in the case as there are no mounts for it.
> And you cant even reuse the fan ever again as you are pretty much going to have to cut its power cable ( i was forced to do this with my fan) otherwise you wont get the damm fan out.
> 
> Also note that my personal experience with the stock Phanteks fans is they make a ton of vibration noise when mounted in the top of the case.
> Dont know if mine where somehow broken but they where so bad that the whole case would start shaking when the fans where cranked to max.
> 
> I replaced them so i have 5x of the same fans all NF-A14 FLX, 2x in the front and top and 1x in the back.


So there is no way I can remove the front 200mm without cutting its power cable? Wouldn't that mean I will need to cut the power cable on the new 140mm to reattach the two cables together?

Just to confirm, I won't have to cut any of the 140mm stocks fans if I want to move them right? Had no idea had to cut the cable for the 200mm


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jasonm99*
> 
> So there is no way I can remove the front 200mm without cutting its power cable? Wouldn't that mean I will need to cut the power cable on the new 140mm to reattach the two cables together?
> 
> Just to confirm, I won't have to cut any of the 140mm stocks fans if I want to move them right? Had no idea had to cut the cable for the 200mm


The cable on the 200mm fan goes through a tiny hole in the front of the case and that hole is too small for the 3 pin connector to go through.
I did not bother to try and get the the connector through that tiny hole so i just cut the wire, that being said you might be able to get it through if you have enough time on your hand.

And no you you dont need to cut any wire for the new fans as the connector cant even get through.
There are much bigger holes the cables will go through with no problems so i dont see the point of the 200mm fan being that way.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> The Luxe has a 4 pin PWM fan hub behind the motherboard tray so you can plug up to 6 fans into that.
> The hub then has a single PWM cable you can plug into the motherboard so you dont use all your fan headers.
> 
> Looks like this and all you need to power it is a SATA power cable
> 
> 
> Edit: 3 pin fans will also work with the hub as you can plug a 3 pin into a 4 pin but not vice versa.


I hate to say it, but *the PWM fan hub is not for PWM fans*.
Why Phanteks named it "PWM fan hub" is a mystery to everyone. It is a *PWM controlled fan hub for 3-pin fans.*
Any use of PWM fans on the PWM fan hub means the PWM fans are functioning as variable voltage fans.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> The cable on the 200mm fan goes through a tiny hole in the front of the case and that hole is too small for the 3 pin connector to go through.
> I did not bother to try and get the the connector through that tiny hole so i just cut the wire, that being said you might be able to get it through if you have enough time on your hand.
> 
> And no you you dont need to cut any wire for the new fans as the connector cant even get through.
> There are much bigger holes the cables will go through with no problems so i dont see the point of the 200mm fan being that way.


I removed the 200mm fan, cable and all from my Luxe with no problems .. and I have old arthritic hands.


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> I removed the 200mm fan, cable and all from my Luxe with no problems .. and I have old arthritic hands.


My Luxe has a number of strange things going on with it so that might be yet another flaw it has.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jasonm99*
> 
> Alright thanks, good to know I can use 4 pin connectors on the Luxe as the store I want to purchase from only has the NF-A14 PWM in-stock (they don't sell the NF-A14 FLX). It's the only Noctua and Phanteks case fan they sell.
> 
> That being said, what is the best fan set up I should go with? So two 140mm in the front, keep the 140mm at the rear, now should I move the 200mm to the top back (and moving the top back 140mm to the front)? Or buy another 140mm and just ditch 200mm?


I know of no Phanteks case with PWM connections. All are 3-pin variable voltage. The Phanteks PWM *controlled* fan hub controls 3-pin variable voltage fans.


----------



## japemo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *japemo*
> 
> Hi!!!
> 
> I have a doubt about free space above rail for rad to top case on Evolv ATX. Could you help me?
> 
> I attach a image with dimension to know.
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks anticipated!!!


Sorry, some with EVOLV ATX can you help me and say me this distance? Please









Kind regards!!!!


----------



## shilka

If you plug a PWM fan into a 3 pin wont it just work as a normal 3 pin fan?


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jasonm99*
> 
> So there is no way I can remove the front 200mm without cutting its power cable? Wouldn't that mean I will need to cut the power cable on the new 140mm to reattach the two cables together?
> 
> Just to confirm, I won't have to cut any of the 140mm stocks fans if I want to move them right? Had no idea had to cut the cable for the 200mm


shilka is the one and only person who I've ever heard of who could not remove their PH-F200HP fan from the case with the plug attached.

I do not believe he (or she) know half as much and they are preaching here. And from the resent posts it appears I'm not the only one having doubts about shilka's knowledge.


----------



## Jasonm99

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> I know it has been said by some here that adding spacers to have the front sit about an inch forward does wonders. I have an EVOLV ATX, and see almost no measurable difference with the front on or off - no real airflow issues at all.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> While I don't have a Evolv I do have a Luxe. I'm all air cooling anyway .. until my fairy god-mother gives me something like the Swiftech H320 X2 Prestige.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've looked at the Evolv and wondered if there is a way to space the front plate forward 10-15mm .. maybe space the clip-in mounting brackets off of cover could be done without too much trouble??. That would greatly improve airflow.


These two comments seem to be conflicting. ciarlatano says he has the entire front off and sees no difference in airflow, where as doyll says moving the front panel a bit forward will greatly improve airflow.

I guess the only thing that is holding me back from getting the Evolv is that I need to know whether it has good airflow or not without adding any fans. Like is it a case known for having bad airflow? Would you guys say the Evolv is better than the H440 from NZXT (I've heard the H440 has terrible airflow)?


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> You cant use the 200mm fan anywhere else in the case as there are no mounts for it.
> And you cant even reuse the fan ever again as you are pretty much going to have to cut its power cable ( i was forced to do this with my fan) otherwise you wont get the damm fan out.
> 
> Also note that my personal experience with the stock Phanteks fans is they make a ton of vibration noise when mounted in the top of the case.
> Dont know if mine where somehow broken but they where so bad that the whole case would start shaking when the fans where cranked to max.
> 
> I replaced them so i have 5x of the same fans all NF-A14 FLX, 2x in the front and top and 1x in the back.


You must be trolling. Please stop with these false, misleading posts. Please answer members' questions with knowledge and truth or not at all.

Enthoo Luxe has mounts for 200mm fan in top and front.
Enthoo Luxe specification
http://www.phanteksusa.com/products/phanteks-enthoo-luxe

Enthoo Pro has mounts for 200mm fan in top and front.
Enthoo Pro specifications
http://www.phanteksusa.com/products/phanteks-enthoo-pro


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jasonm99*
> 
> These two comments seem to be conflicting. ciarlatano says he has the entire front off and sees no difference in airflow, where as doyll says moving the front panel a bit forward will greatly improve airflow.
> 
> I guess the only thing that is holding me back from getting the Evolv is that I need to know whether it has good airflow or not without adding any fans. Like is it a case known for having bad airflow? Would you guys say the Evolv is better than the H440 from NZXT (I've heard the H440 has terrible airflow)?


Geess.. What is in the air tonight?

michael-ocn in post #12135 says he spaced his Evolv cover forward.

ciarlatano in post 12132 says
"Its kind of a give and take. The Luxe is capable of better flow, but is hindered by the less than stellar 200mm intake. The EVOLV
ATX has better intake fans, but more restriction and less exhaust. Throw a couple of good 140mm in the front of the Luxe and you have the best of everything.

I have both of these cases and am right now trying to decide which to keep. My dilemma is based around liquid components rather than airflow. If I was air cooling and basing the decision on performance, I would keep the Luxe without question."


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> You cant use the 200mm fan anywhere else in the case as there are no mounts for it.
> And you cant even reuse the fan ever again as you are pretty much going to have to cut its power cable ( i was forced to do this with my fan) otherwise you wont get the damm fan out.
> .


There is a mount for the 200mm in the top. The hardware kit even comes with specific screws to mount it. And the cable does *not* need to be cut.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> My Luxe has a number of strange things going on with it so that might be yet another flaw it has.


With all you have said about the Luxe and Phanteks fans....are you sure you have a Luxe? Or a Phanteks of any kind? Everything you say is the exact opposite of everyone else's experiences.


----------



## Jasonm99

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Geess.. What is in the air tonight?
> 
> michael-ocn in post #12135 says he spaced his Evolv cover forward.
> 
> ciarlatano in post 12132 says
> "Its kind of a give and take. The Luxe is capable of better flow, but is hindered by the less than stellar 200mm intake. The EVOLV
> ATX has better intake fans, but more restriction and less exhaust. Throw a couple of good 140mm in the front of the Luxe and you have the best of everything.
> 
> I have both of these cases and am right now trying to decide which to keep. My dilemma is based around liquid components rather than airflow. If I was air cooling and basing the decision on performance, I would keep the Luxe without question."


I was thinking of quoting him as well but according to Ciarlatano, he experienced no measurable difference in airflow with the front completely off vs on?

Ciarlatano, is this correct or am I missing something?


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> My Luxe has a number of strange things going on with it so that might be yet another flaw it has.


mine us gone from my pro...it was the second easiest to remove I thought...the hole was big enough on mine the connector had enough room..

Goodies for primo...


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jasonm99*
> 
> I was thinking of quoting him as well but according to Ciarlatano, he experienced no measurable difference in airflow with the front completely off vs on?
> 
> Ciarlatano, is this correct or am I missing something?


No difference in temps. I didn't measure airflow.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> No difference in temps. I didn't measure airflow.


What was the system? Fan placement and speed, air or water cooling?


----------



## Jasonm99

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> No difference in temps. I didn't measure airflow.


Oh I see, my mistake. On the Evolv, are you able to move the two 140mm intakes closer to the top? Would this be better for airflow for the gpu and cpu? Unless of course it's better to have front fans in taking air at the bottom of the front vs top of the front. If I do end up going with the Evolv, what other final tips and tricks or fan set ups would you recommend to better my Evolv atx? Lastly, just to confirm, the Evolv ATX is 100% filtered at all intake vents/ openings right?


----------



## michael-ocn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *japemo*
> 
> Sorry, some with EVOLV ATX can you help me and say me this distance? Please
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Kind regards!!!!


Not much, about 20mm or 21mm, also there's some hardware up there for the pwr button housing.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jasonm99*
> 
> Oh I see, my mistake. On the Evolv, are you able to move the two 140mm intakes closer to the top? Would this be better for airflow for the gpu and cpu? Unless of course it's better to have front fans in taking air at the bottom of the front vs top of the front. If I do end up going with the Evolv, what other final tips and tricks or fan set ups would you recommend to better my Evolv atx? Lastly, just to confirm, the Evolv ATX is 100% filtered at all intake vents/ openings right?


Yes, you can move the front fans up, I did that because the intake path is less obstructed.

As for other ideas, you can see my build log and other comments about how i've set mine up.
http://www.overclock.net/t/1418637/official-case-phanteks-case-club-for-lovers-owners/11580#post_24516771
http://www.overclock.net/t/1573749/build-log-make-believe-build-2015/40#post_24519285


----------



## clarifiante

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *michael-ocn*
> 
> Not much, about 20mm or 21mm, also there's some hardware up there for the pwr button housing.
> Yes, you can move the front fans up, I did that because the intake path is less obstructed.
> 
> As for other ideas, you can see my build log and other comments about how i've set mine up.
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1418637/official-case-phanteks-case-club-for-lovers-owners/11580#post_24516771
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1573749/build-log-make-believe-build-2015/40#post_24519285


very interesting how you blocked air going up to the upper vents. what sort of improvements did you see in temps?


----------



## michael-ocn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *clarifiante*
> 
> very interesting how you blocked air going up to the upper vents. what sort of improvements did you see in temps?


It was a while ago that I did this so it's hard to remember exactly. Old notes suggest 2 or 3c difference at idle and sounds like a larger difference under load. Putting that cardboard up there made a good difference.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *michael-ocn*
> 
> I think I'm getting some re-circulation based on watching temps under heavy cpu+gpu load for a long'ish duraton. (the gpu has an acx2 cooler). Pop the front panel off after an hour of heavy load and temps tha take a while to creep up drop back down pretty quickly. My plan is to close off the back gap and narrow the front so only the very front can be drawn up top to feed the rad intake and be blown back down.
> ...
> I think I can see the effects of re-circulation at idle too. With front cover popped off, core temps range from 27 to 29c, put the cover back on and it's 29 to 32c. So warmer air from inside the case is being drawn thru the rad instead of 100% cool air from outside.
> ...


Blocking off the gaps in those locations only makes sense if the air is flowing down thru the rad. If you have air flowing up thru the rad, blocking the front gap and leaving the back gap open would probably make more sense.


----------



## clarifiante

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *michael-ocn*
> 
> It was a while ago that I did this so it's hard to remember exactly. Old notes suggest 2 or 3c difference at idle and sounds like a larger difference under load. Putting that cardboard up there made a good difference.
> Blocking off the gaps in those locations only makes sense if the air is flowing down thru the rad. If you have air flowing up thru the rad, blocking the front gap and leaving the back gap open would probably make more sense.


are you still running this setup? i have the same case and realised that air flow isn't that great. when my gpu heats up, the whole system just heats up and it doesnt seem to dissipate too well. got a h110igtx working as exhaust. 3x120 jetlo running at full 3000rpm and the stock case rear fan. i'll give the tip for popping out the front panel a try, the guy at the pc workshop near me did say that the top panel should've been made with a open filter at the top to allow for better airflow. not too sure how i'd take making holes in the top and front panels lol

am contemplating putting my 980ti under water at some point, i live in a hot country so it doesnt help temps. its >30C all year round here. but thats a hefty investment and there's just no way round that so its a hard decision to make.


----------



## Kilo11

I have a question for anyone who owns an Enthoo Luxe (black). I am very interested in getting this case, however something is bugging me. In all the pictures I have seen of it, the sand blasted aluminum front panel looks (at least to me) like cheap plastic. For those who own or have seen one of these up close does it actually look this way, or is it just the camera/s.


----------



## Jasonm99

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *michael-ocn*
> 
> Not much, about 20mm or 21mm, also there's some hardware up there for the pwr button housing.
> Yes, you can move the front fans up, I did that because the intake path is less obstructed.
> 
> As for other ideas, you can see my build log and other comments about how i've set mine up.
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1418637/official-case-phanteks-case-club-for-lovers-owners/11580#post_24516771
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1573749/build-log-make-believe-build-2015/40#post_24519285


Does adding spacers to the front panel really contribute to lower temps for the cpu and gpu and by how much if so? I really am interested in the Evlov ATX but it's kind of a turn off knowing that I would need to somewhat mod it to have better performance (like adding spacers to open up the front more).


----------



## Cozmo85

Finally done!


----------



## michael-ocn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jasonm99*
> 
> Does adding spacers to the front panel really contribute to lower temps for the cpu and gpu and by how much if so? I really am interested in the Evlov ATX but it's kind of a turn off knowing that I would need to somewhat mod it to have better performance (like adding spacers to open up the front more).


This was a 15min RealBench stresstest run, so 100% cpu and gpu load. Where the red hand drawn arrow is, I popped the bottom of the front panel out and propped it open a little. The MOBO temp (yellow) started going down shortly thereafter. The PCH temp (fusia) was threatening to go up another degree, but reversed course and came back down instead. So air temps in the case cooled off right after propping the panel open.

The CPU temps are not so affected because the airflow is arranged to push cool air thru the radiator (see pics in the build log). Prior to those airflow arrangements, CPU temps were more affected by interior case air temps.



The Evolv is a real nice case and I personally wouldn't trade it in for a Luxe. I like the looks of it and I like putting stuff on top of my case.


----------



## michael-ocn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cozmo85*
> 
> Finally done!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ]


Nice, you dont' have to think about sealing off air gaps with that monster in there


----------



## Jasonm99

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *michael-ocn*
> 
> This was a 15min RealBench stresstest run, so 100% cpu and gpu load. Where the red hand drawn arrow is, I popped the bottom of the front panel out and propped it open a little. The MOBO temp (yellow) started going down shortly thereafter. The PCH temp (fusia) was threatening to go up another degree, but reversed course and came back down instead. So air temps in the case cooled off right after propping the panel open.
> 
> The CPU temps are not so affected because the airflow is arranged to push cool air thru the radiator (see pics in the build log). Prior to those airflow arrangements, CPU temps were more affected by interior case air temps.
> 
> 
> 
> The Evolv is a real nice case and I personally wouldn't trade it in for a Luxe. I like the looks of it and I like putting stuff on top of my case.


Just curious, when you leave an opening at the bottom of the front panel like that, wouldn't that damage the bindings at the top that are intact to the case since they are now at an angle?


----------



## michael-ocn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jasonm99*
> 
> Just curious, when you leave an opening at the bottom of the front panel like that, wouldn't that damage the bindings at the top that are intact to the case since they are now at an angle?


Not really, it's propped open with something roughly as wide around as a pencil. There's not a lot of pressure or tension involved. When you seat the front panel, all four pegs do not seat simultaneously, the top ones pop in and then the bottoms, or vice versa. It's like that, but an extra pencil width wider.


----------



## sav4

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cozmo85*
> 
> Finally done!


Looks good ?


----------



## doyll

While not 'scientific' this ''tp-isitc' approach can be helpful.







Quote:


> Originally Posted by *michael-ocn*
> 
> also noticed the front panel really is very restrictive, too restrictive for overclocking. With the front panel snapped in place, not much air flows out thru the open pci slots at the back. With it pulled off, a piece of tissue paper held back there is flapping in the wind pretty good.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *michael-ocn*
> 
> This was a 15min RealBench stresstest run, so 100% cpu and gpu load. Where the red hand drawn arrow is, I popped the bottom of the front panel out and propped it open a little. The MOBO temp (yellow) started going down shortly thereafter. The PCH temp (fusia) was threatening to go up another degree, but reversed course and came back down instead. So air temps in the case cooled off right after propping the panel open.
> 
> The CPU temps are not so affected because the airflow is arranged to push cool air thru the radiator (see pics in the build log). Prior to those airflow arrangements, CPU temps were more affected by interior case air temps.
> 
> 
> 
> The Evolv is a real nice case and I personally wouldn't trade it in for a Luxe. I like the looks of it and I like putting stuff on top of my case.


Looks like VRM are still slowly climbing at end of test run. This makes me wonder if they would how long they would continue to climb if test was continued.

Temperature drops with front moved out 6mm appear to be about 3c & 4c respectively? What happens if front cover is removed completely?

It looks like motherboard and GPU temps are still slowly rising at 7min point when yo spaced front out. Do they continue rising if front is left in place?

What are intake fan speeds during these load tests?

Too bad there isn't a bottom vent. Only way to supplement the front intakes is change front and/or reverse rear fan.









Edit: How is the mounting bracket attached to front cover? Does cover have nuts attached to it or studs?

If you would like to discuss possilbe cooling options more, we can do it here or in your build thread.


----------



## KaffieneKing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cozmo85*
> 
> Finally done


Looks great! Is there a front rad?


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaffieneKing*
> 
> Looks great! Is there a front rad?


Clearly visible that there is not.


----------



## jaymz60

Nice job Cozmo85







Building my luxe now I put a UT60 420 in the top.


----------



## New green

I am thinking of getting the enthoo evolv mATX case and buying noctua fans for it. Would this be a good fan arrangement? I was planning on putting the front 120mm fans at max from the PSU with the top 120mm fans and back 140mm fan from the motherboard with a splitter. Overall I'm looking for a quiet PC with great cooling and don't want the maintenance involved with a closed loop and figured the AIO's wouldn't offer me any real advantage over air cooling and would not be as quiet unless I replaced the aio fans.

Fans I was looking at are in the link they are the nf-a15 pwn and nf-s12a uln

http://pcpartpicker.com/p/T7XkFT


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *New green*
> 
> I am thinking of getting the enthoo evolv mATX case and buying noctua fans for it. Would this be a good fan arrangement? I was planning on putting the front 120mm fans at max from the PSU with the top 120mm fans and back 140mm fan from the motherboard with a splitter. Overall I'm looking for a quiet PC with great cooling and don't want the maintenance involved with a closed loop and figured the AIO's wouldn't offer me any real advantage over air cooling and would not be as quiet unless I replaced the aio fans.
> 
> Fans I was looking at are in the link they are the nf-a15 pwn and nf-s12a uln
> 
> http://pcpartpicker.com/p/T7XkFT


How many fans are you looking at putting in, and what are you looking at putting where? The NF-A15 are the wrong choice for case fans since they use a 120mm bolt pattern, you want the NF-A14 PWM which is the same fan with a 140mm mounting basket.

And the EVOLV includes an advanced fan hub....so not really sure why you would want to put your intakes directly to the PSU, especially at max when you say you want quiet.


----------



## New green

Does the mATX case have the fan hub? That would be great I thought I was just limited to the motherboards. I was thinking of getting four 120mm fans for the front and top and a 140mm for the back. The back fan does support a 120mm fan though so wasn't sure if the nf-a15 would work.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *New green*
> 
> Does the mATX case have the fan hub? That would be great I thought I was just limited to the motherboards. I was thinking of getting four 120mm fans for the front and top and a 140mm for the back. The back fan does support a 120mm fan though so wasn't sure if the nf-a15 would work.


The hub is included.

The Case was essentially designed for five 140mm. So, why are you using 120mm fans? The NF-A14 PWM or FLX will move more air with less noise than the 120mm, and will leave less gapping for air to simply recirculate in the case.

You _could_ mount an NF-A15 in the rear.....but why would you put a fan with the wrong mounting in when the same fan is available with the correct mounting?


----------



## New green

Oh ok great I was just looking at the lowest dbA fans and thought four 6-8 dbA 120mm fans would be better. Should I just use five nf-a14 fans?


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *New green*
> 
> Oh ok great I was just looking at the lowest dbA fans and thought four 6-8 dbA 120mm fans would be better. Should I just use five nf-a14 fans?


The specs on the page show the max dB. The NF-A14 will run just as quietly when run at the same slower speeds, and will move more air. So, yes, running all NF-A14 would give you a number of advantages.


----------



## New green

Awesome thanks I'll make the change.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *New green*
> 
> I am thinking of getting the enthoo evolv mATX case and buying noctua fans for it. Would this be a good fan arrangement? I was planning on putting the front 120mm fans at max from the PSU with the top 120mm fans and back 140mm fan from the motherboard with a splitter. Overall I'm looking for a quiet PC with great cooling and don't want the maintenance involved with a closed loop and figured the AIO's wouldn't offer me any real advantage over air cooling and would not be as quiet unless I replaced the aio fans.
> 
> Fans I was looking at are in the link they are the nf-a15 pwn and nf-s12a uln
> 
> http://pcpartpicker.com/p/T7XkFT


Fan db specs are open air noise level, .. which is much lower than the combined noise of working fan combined with grills, filters, etc.

Why are you changing to Nocs instead of using the PH-F140SP fans case comes with? They are great fans and do a great job with the included PWM controlled fan hub.


----------



## New green

The kit guru review said the fan noise was apparent so I figured I'd at least switch out the 200mm fan. Do you think the 140mm in the back it comes with is just as good as the nf-a14?


----------



## Danzle

The case has only one 140mm PH-F140SP and would need two more for the frontintake. The front 200mm one is fairly week with low pressure and is noisy at high rpm.

Noctua NF-A14: 140 mm, 300 - 1500 RPM, 24.60 dB, 140.20 m3/h, 2.08 mmH20
PH-F140SP: 140 mm, 1200 RPM, 19 dB, 138.47 m3/h, 1.33 mmH20


----------



## New green

Ok cool so I should only need to get four nf-a14 pwm fans for the front and top and keep the ph-f140sp it comes with.

Edit: or do you think I should get four more ph-f140sp fans? It is $8 cheaper but I'm not too worried about the price if the noctua fans have any noticeable benefits.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *New green*
> 
> Ok cool so I should only need to get four nf-a14 pwm fans for the front and top and keep the ph-f140sp it comes with.
> 
> Edit: or do you think I should get four more ph-f140sp fans? It is $8 cheaper but I'm not too worried about the price if the noctua fans have any noticeable benefits.


I have quite a few NF-A14 on hand....and my cases are filled with F140SP. I find them to be excellent fans with incredibly slow start speeds. Are the Noctuas better? Probably a little, but not enough for me to sacrifice the color scheme or even go through the effort of changing them.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *New green*
> 
> Ok cool so I should only need to get four nf-a14 pwm fans for the front and top and keep the ph-f140sp it comes with.
> 
> Edit: or do you think I should get four more ph-f140sp fans? It is $8 cheaper but I'm not too worried about the price if the noctua fans have any noticeable benefits.


Why 5x case fans? Just because case has room for 5 isn't justification to use 5. A 5 bedroom house doesn't need someone sleeping in every room









Most likely using 5x fans will give higher component temps than using 3x fans.


----------



## New green

Ok cool so I should get better temps with just two front fans and the back fan and leave the top fans spots empty.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *New green*
> 
> Ok cool so I should get better temps with just two front fans and the back fan and leave the top fans spots empty.


I don't necessarily agree with @doyll that temps would be higher, but I also don't believe that temps will be any better with the two top exhaust fans, either. I would start with three (which would mean you would need to order two F140SP) and see how it performs. As I had mentioned previously, top fans in the EVOLV series tend to recirculate air more than they do anything else.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> I don't necessarily agree with @doyll that temps would be higher, but I also don't believe that temps will be any better with the two top exhaust fans, either. I would start with three (which would mean you would need to order two F140SP) and see how it performs. As I had mentioned previously, top fans in the EVOLV series tend to recirculate air more than they do anything else.


Okay, 'most likely' might be a little too much.
But it is a definite maybe.









As you say, 2x front and 1x back will probably do as well as 5x fans.

Maybe a 4th fan in front top mount with back top mount blocked could help supply cooler air to CPU.

Often (as often as not) a divider between CPU and GPU from about 50mm in front of front edge of GPU to about middle of GPU from motherboard to side cover helps keep GPU heated exhaust from contaminating cool air supply to CPU.


----------



## New green

I'm thinking of trying out the 3 nf-a14 fans in the front, block off the back top, and try to attach some kind of extender over the gpu backplate on the 390 to the end of the side panel until hbm2 hits. Thanks for all the help everyone.


----------



## Jasonm99

I'm pretty evenly split in between the Evolv ATX and the Luxe still. There are moments throughout my time researching reviews and looking for feedback that I would lean towards one but then soon to lean back towards the other.

I do believe the Luxe does have better airflow potential over the Evolv, but the question is, do I need all that air? I'm going to be running an MSI 980Ti gaming 6G with a 4790K with Noctua's NH-U14S. I won't be overclocking as I feel there is no need to (I might in the future). I know there is no such thing as too much air and cooling (unless you go under ambient) so as long as I stay within the safe zone, a few degrees higher won't make much of a difference in lifespan or will it?

One point I forgot to ask, how is the noise level between these two cases? Which one is quieter and why?


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jasonm99*
> 
> One point I forgot to ask, how is the noise level between these two cases? Which one is quieter and why?


The EVOLV ATX is quieter. The two 140mm are quieter than the 200mm (as pointed out previously), and the top is not open.


----------



## michael-ocn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> While not 'scientific' this ''tp-isitc' approach can be helpful.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Looks like VRM are still slowly climbing at end of test run. This makes me wonder if they would how long they would continue to climb if test was continued.
> 
> Temperature drops with front moved out 6mm appear to be about 3c & 4c respectively? What happens if front cover is removed completely?
> 
> It looks like motherboard and GPU temps are still slowly rising at 7min point when yo spaced front out. Do they continue rising if front is left in place?
> 
> What are intake fan speeds during these load tests?
> 
> Too bad there isn't a bottom vent. Only way to supplement the front intakes is change front and/or reverse rear fan.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Edit: How is the mounting bracket attached to front cover? Does cover have nuts attached to it or studs?
> 
> If you would like to discuss possilbe cooling options more, we can do it here or in your build thread.


I didn't run it long enough to see how VRM temps are affected. VRM temps take a while to creep up. They top out at ~60 when air is flowing, they'll creep higher with the panel fully on. But I popped the panel before it had reached cruising speed.

It does help even more to fully remove the front panel.

With the panel left in place, the GPU will either get hotter or its fans will spin harder to maintain similar temps.

I'm using the PH-F140SPs, with a full load like this, the case fans run at 100%, about 1250 RPM.

I think a bottom intake fan would have been a nice addition to this case too.

The scenario that gives the case the most trouble is a graphically demanding game that is not cpu intensive.
- cpu is not working too hard and is cool
- gpu is going all out
I have the case fans regulated by cpu temps, so the case fans don't run up to much in that scenario. The hot exhaust from the gpu does not get pushed out of the case. With the fans spinning at their slowest speed, the low pressure is hardly enough to break thru the restrictiveness of the front panel. I have to get off my butt and do something with the arduino i have now to remedy that situation. http://www.overclock.net/t/1578212/fan-controller-that-responds-to-2-pwm-input-signals


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *New green*
> 
> I'm thinking of trying out the 3 nf-a14 fans in the front, block off the back top, and try to attach some kind of extender over the gpu backplate on the 390 to the end of the side panel until hbm2 hits. Thanks for all the help everyone.


Remember only as much air as comes out of the case can go in. It's as simple as that. If your case as 3 intake vents and 3 exhaust vents, it will only flow 3 vents worth of air. If you put 5 intkae fans and one exhaut, your 1 exhaust is all the case can flow.
Think of your case as a tank of water with 6x 3" pipes in it.

If you run 3 pipes of water in and 3 pipes of water out .. all flowing the same 3 gpm of wter at same 3 psi everything is at 3psi.
Tank flows 9gpm

If you change it to 4 pipes in and 2 pipes out and intake pipes are 3gpm @ 3psi the exhaust can 2 pipes out can only flow up to 3gpm @ 3psi out.,this means intakes instead of pushing 3gpm each in end up push 1.5gpm in because the 2 pipes flowing water our only fow 3gpm @ 3psi each for a total of 6gpm

In other words the case only flows the maximum amount of the lower of the two, intake or exhaust. What goes in must come out .. or .. what goes out much come in. And the area of the vents is pretyy much the best way of gauging maximum flow .. and as a general rule the intake fans need to have a higher pressure ratting than exhaust because their generally have more restrictive vents plus filters.

We can add to this that if we use good intake fans and low resistance exhaust bents we don't even need exhaust fans. The intake fans will push the air all the way through the case. Several of us build systems this way. it's the same principle as NH-D15 with 2x fans and NH-D15S with only 1x fan. Cooling ability is very close to the same, on D15S with only one fan .. and noise levels are also very close to the same.










As to which case to use, both are very good. And Sod's law says you will probably wish you had gotten the other one regards of which one you get.


----------



## michael-ocn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *New green*
> 
> I'm thinking of trying out the 3 nf-a14 fans in the front, block off the back top, and try to attach some kind of extender over the gpu backplate on the 390 to the end of the side panel until hbm2 hits. Thanks for all the help everyone.


The fan placement sounds like a pretty good plan. I'm having a hard time picturing the gpu/cpu divider? A picture of an example of that would help.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *michael-ocn*
> 
> I didn't run it long enough to see how VRM temps are affected. VRM temps take a while to creep up. They top out at ~60 when air is flowing, they'll creep higher with the panel fully on. But I popped the panel before it had reached cruising speed.
> 
> It does help even more to fully remove the front panel.
> 
> With the panel left in place, the GPU will either get hotter or its fans will spin harder to maintain similar temps.
> 
> I'm using the PH-F140SPs, with a full load like this, the case fans run at 100%, about 1250 RPM.
> 
> I think a bottom intake fan would have been a nice addition to this case too.
> 
> The scenario that gives the case the most trouble is a graphically demanding game that is not cpu intensive.
> - cpu is not working too hard and is cool
> - gpu is going all out
> I have the case fans regulated by cpu temps, so the case fans don't run up to much in that scenario. The hot exhaust from the gpu does not get pushed out of the case. With the fans spinning at their slowest speed, the low pressure is hardly enough to break thru the restrictiveness of the front panel. I have to get off my butt and do something with the arduino i have now to remedy that situation. http://www.overclock.net/t/1578212/fan-controller-that-responds-to-2-pwm-input-signals


All makes sense.

Just brainstorming here now. I would think having front intakes with GPU control would be a better choice. Radiator is self controlling. Remove real fan. Get an adapter splitter for GPU fan header (assuming it's PWM' and use the GPU PWM signal to control case front case fans. Worst thing I can see happening is CPU may run a little warmer under full load when GPU is not working hard. Then experiment with one case fan on each (only problem is PWM control and no PWM fan). Maybe your motherboard has a variable voltage heater that uses CPU temp or just use motherboard temp to control it.


----------



## Faster_is_better

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *michael-ocn*
> 
> I didn't run it long enough to see how VRM temps are affected. VRM temps take a while to creep up. They top out at ~60 when air is flowing, they'll creep higher with the panel fully on. But I popped the panel before it had reached cruising speed.
> 
> It does help even more to fully remove the front panel.
> 
> With the panel left in place, the GPU will either get hotter or its fans will spin harder to maintain similar temps.
> 
> I'm using the PH-F140SPs, with a full load like this, the case fans run at 100%, about 1250 RPM.
> 
> I think a bottom intake fan would have been a nice addition to this case too.
> 
> The scenario that gives the case the most trouble is a graphically demanding game that is not cpu intensive.
> - cpu is not working too hard and is cool
> - gpu is going all out
> I have the case fans regulated by cpu temps, so the case fans don't run up to much in that scenario. The hot exhaust from the gpu does not get pushed out of the case. With the fans spinning at their slowest speed, the low pressure is hardly enough to break thru the restrictiveness of the front panel. I have to get off my butt and do something with the arduino i have now to remedy that situation. http://www.overclock.net/t/1578212/fan-controller-that-responds-to-2-pwm-input-signals
> 
> 
> 
> All makes sense.
> 
> Just brainstorming here now. I would think having front intakes with GPU control would be a better choice. Radiator is self controlling. Remove real fan. Get an adapter splitter for GPU fan header (assuming it's PWM' and use the GPU PWM signal to control case front case fans. Worst thing I can see happening is CPU may run a little warmer under full load when GPU is not working hard. Then experiment with one case fan on each (only problem is PWM control and no PWM fan). Maybe your motherboard has a variable voltage heater that uses CPU temp or just use motherboard temp to control it.
Click to expand...

I have most of my radiator fans controlled via GPU PWM source, and controlled with MSI Afterburner, it is really nice with the amount of control MSI AB gives you. Custom fan curve based on temp, automatically controlled. Now if you go and bench your CPU, you will have to manually set the fan speeds to compensate for the load there.


----------



## blurp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Faster_is_better*
> 
> I have most of my radiator fans controlled via GPU PWM source, and controlled with MSI Afterburner, it is really nice with the amount of control MSI AB gives you. Custom fan curve based on temp, automatically controlled. Now if you go and bench your CPU, you will have to manually set the fan speeds to compensate for the load there.


SpeedFan allows to control fan speed according to GPU AND CPU. Love it. Learning curve is a bit steep but thereafter the reward is awesonme especially with advanced fan control tab.


----------



## kjrayo18

[/IMG]


Probably one of the nicest cases I've worked on, even like it more then the pro. ?


----------



## Cozmo85

Wish I could get a vented top for my Evolv ATX. Removing the top lowered my water temps by 6-7c and gpu temps equally on heaven benchmark.


----------



## Cube Rhino

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cozmo85*
> 
> Wish I could get a vented top for my Evolv ATX. Removing the top lowered my water temps by 6-7c and gpu temps equally on heaven benchmark.


It's worse on the ITX, I'm seriously considering returning my new case or trying to mod in some top vents, the heat is extreme and the top of the case feels so hot to the touch that it's almost burning with my predator installed. Temps are only around 50ish on the gpu and cpu during heaven bench but still it's alarming that the only exhaust are these tiny vents :/


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cozmo85*
> 
> Wish I could get a vented top for my Evolv ATX. Removing the top lowered my water temps by 6-7c and gpu temps equally on heaven benchmark.


Can the top be left setting on it's pop-in latches? Does this raise the top 6-10mm? If so does this lower temps? Trying to determine how much more airflow vent area is needed.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cube Rhino*
> 
> It's worse on the ITX, I'm seriously considering returning my new case or trying to mod in some top vents, the heat is extreme and the top of the case feels so hot to the touch that it's almost burning with my predator installed. Temps are only around 50ish on the gpu and cpu during heaven bench but still it's alarming that the only exhaust are these tiny vents :/


Same questions as above.

Assuming you havve EKWB Predator:
FYI, EKWB recalled all R1.0 Predators because of a leak risk issue. "All Revision 1.0 units produced from October 2015 until end of December 2015 are potentially affected .. "
https://www.ekwb.com/news/656/19/Important-notice-from-EKWB-EK-XLC-Predator-240-and-360-R1-0-Product-recall/


----------



## krzysgro

Hello

Before I go over to the dual-pump setup, two res and a rigid tubing I'd like to show my Primo build, which has been up for one year. I tried to keep it clean and very quiet, hence 420mm up P/P and 360mm down P/P , there's a 240mm rad waiting to be put to the front as well. CPU - good 'ol 2600k @ 4,5GHz with EK Supremacy EVO, GPU 980 gtx evga with EK block+backplate, mobo p8p67 pro. Aquaero 6 and Farbwerk (3 led strips) are taking care of the fans, temps and colours, which usually are delta-T controlled - cool computer has a dark blue glow inside which is going past green, yellow, orange to the evil red when coolant temp hits 35-38C under a prolonged load. Actuall red-blue lightning is just for the photos sake, my wife hates such combinations and demand me to be minimalistic with LEDs or shut them down









Cable management - well, not so easy with all of the aquacomputer stuff (aquaero, usb/aquabus D5, usb/aquabus flow meter mps400, Farbwerk, fan cables, temperature sensors), farbwerk LED-cables, internal usb cables, 3 SSDs, and so on, PSUs cables are blue-black from CableMod. You wanna full controll you have to use a lot of clips







The pump-molex cable is temporarily going around, sorry for that
















Greetings from Sweden


----------



## Tonza

Here is mine:



Case is absolutely fantastic, temperatures are very high tho in this one, probably the hottest case ever made (major design flaw with the front panel and top panel), i had Corsair 650D temporarily before this and had 240 predator cooling the 5820K, i was idling like 28-30C, now with Evolv ATX and bigger brother 360 Predator, my setup idles over 40C (load temps are also higher, but nothing too bad, but still!).

Any suggestions how to make temperatures better? 360 Predator is now in the stock pull configuration at the top, perhaps adding 3x more vardar fans for push pull? Or putting rad to front and fans as intake?. Removing front and top panel is not an solution, i bought this case for the looks and very nice design of the interiors.

Temps are going to be better probably on the CPU when GPU block arrives, since then all the heat is not dumped into the case. Anyway, very disappointing cooling performance even with watercooling, can only imagine what kind of sauna this is with air cooling.


----------



## krzysgro

Does anyone have an EK dual-d5 top with res mounted in the Prime? Or maybe a setup with two separate res+top combo (1-bracket, 2-back) and could post a pic? What about the vibrations with the dual-top?


----------



## Cube Rhino

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Assuming you havve EKWB Predator:
> FYI, EKWB recalled all R1.0 Predators because of a leak risk issue. "All Revision 1.0 units produced from October 2015 until end of December 2015 are potentially affected .. "
> https://www.ekwb.com/news/656/19/Important-notice-from-EKWB-EK-XLC-Predator-240-and-360-R1-0-Product-recall/


I have the rev1.1 with a 980ti GPU block installed, rev1.1 was post-recall and fixed the oring issue in the cpu block that was causing leaks in like 10% of systems at high load temps. The problem is there is too little venting in the top of the case, when I run heaven bench on my system(i5-2500k 4.5oc ~1.2v + 980ti in 240mm loop) the top panel of the case heats up so much that it's unconfortable to the touch even though the system temps don't really go above 50-60. And this is with fans at 1600 RPM. I think the top is acting like a heatsink







Gonna do some more testing but this might not be the best case for watercooling with a top mounted rad.

ALSO the predator 240 rad BARELY fits in the itx version, the panel bulges ever so slightly(even though I was assured by many people it would fit!).

Does anyone have fans in pull or push/pull? Predator comes default push config and that might help...I still think it would be limited by the anemic airflox capability of the top panel.


----------



## Cozmo85

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Can the top be left setting on it's pop-in latches? Does this raise the top 6-10mm? If so does this lower temps? Trying to determine how much more airflow vent area is needed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Same questions as above.
> 
> Assuming you havve EKWB Predator:
> FYI, EKWB recalled all R1.0 Predators because of a leak risk issue. "All Revision 1.0 units produced from October 2015 until end of December 2015 are potentially affected .. "
> https://www.ekwb.com/news/656/19/Important-notice-from-EKWB-EK-XLC-Predator-240-and-360-R1-0-Product-recall/


Yea i can try that tonight. If we could get a top that was vented like the pro m it would be perfect.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tonza*
> 
> Here is mine:
> 
> Case is absolutely fantastic, temperatures are very high tho in this one, probably the hottest case ever made (major design flaw with the front panel and top panel), i had Corsair 650D temporarily before this and had 240 predator cooling the 5820K, i was idling like 28-30C, now with Evolv ATX and bigger brother 360 Predator, my setup idles over 40C (load temps are also higher, but nothing too bad, but still!).
> 
> Any suggestions how to make temperatures better? 360 Predator is now in the stock pull configuration at the top, perhaps adding 3x more vardar fans for push pull? Or putting rad to front and fans as intake?. Removing front and top panel is not an solution, i bought this case for the looks and very nice design of the interiors.
> 
> Temps are going to be better probably on the CPU when GPU block arrives, since then all the heat is not dumped into the case. Anyway, very disappointing cooling performance even with watercooling, can only imagine what kind of sauna this is with air cooling.


It's actually pretty average with air cooling. The big issue is the restrictive top, which affects top mounted rads far more than air cooling or front mounted rads. With the top mounted rad you end up recirculating a lot of the air from the rad's exhaust, resulting in warmer interior temps. Sealing up the top actually helps a bit - a lot more air gets through those 140mm mounting slots than you think. Try doing something simple like putting some tape up there to see if it helps. If it does, you can do something more permanent and attractive.


----------



## Tonza

Thanks for explanation, decided to try and remove top panel completely just for the science, temperatures dropped 7-8 degrees... Think i will show some dremel to this top panel and cut piece off from it and put something like this to cover it and make it nice looking.

https://www.overclockers.co.uk/demciflex-dustfilter-set-for-360mm-radiator-black-black-cm-034-df.html


----------



## Cozmo85

I think i might order a define S and sell my Evolv ATX. I dont really want to have to leave the top off. Im gonna change the fans to intake from the top and see how it effects things as well.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cozmo85*
> 
> I think i might order a define S and sell my Evolv ATX. I dont really want to have to leave the top off. Im gonna change the fans to intake from the top and see how it effects things as well.


Something I have considered, as well. But, I would be leaning to the Enthoo Pro M Acrylic. I have a Luxe on hand, but fitting a GTX 980, XSPC Photon and 2 mechanical drives simultaneously is an issue. Also the layout of the Evolv and Pro M are much nicer.


----------



## michael-ocn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tonza*
> 
> Here is mine:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Case is absolutely fantastic, temperatures are very high tho in this one, probably the hottest case ever made (major design flaw with the front panel and top panel), i had Corsair 650D temporarily before this and had 240 predator cooling the 5820K, i was idling like 28-30C, now with Evolv ATX and bigger brother 360 Predator, my setup idles over 40C (load temps are also higher, but nothing too bad, but still!).
> 
> Any suggestions how to make temperatures better? 360 Predator is now in the stock pull configuration at the top, perhaps adding 3x more vardar fans for push pull? Or putting rad to front and fans as intake?. Removing front and top panel is not an solution, i bought this case for the looks and very nice design of the interiors.
> 
> Temps are going to be better probably on the CPU when GPU block arrives, since then all the heat is not dumped into the case. Anyway, very disappointing cooling performance even with watercooling, can only imagine what kind of sauna this is with air cooling.


Wow, you have no room for the exhaust fan on the back, is that right? Maybe get a bigger case or get a smaller radiator? You'd be better off with a 240/280 and airflow than a 360 and stagnant air.

Have you tried reversing the airflow, pushing air down thru the rad? Removing the unused pci slot covers could help a little.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tonza*
> 
> Thanks for explanation, decided to try and remove top panel completely just for the science, temperatures dropped 7-8 degrees... Think i will show some dremel to this top panel and cut piece off from it and put something like this to cover it and make it nice looking.
> 
> https://www.overclockers.co.uk/demciflex-dustfilter-set-for-360mm-radiator-black-black-cm-034-df.html


You might be able to find something more aesthetically pleasing here.
http://mnpctech.com/pc-computer-cooling-fans-grills-custom/
http://mnpctech.com/pc-computer-alphacool-ek-bitspower-hardwarelabs-heatkiller-liquid-cooling/360-radiator-grills/


----------



## Jasonm99

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> The EVOLV ATX is quieter. The two 140mm are quieter than the 200mm (as pointed out previously), and the top is not open.


I've decided I'll be sticking with the Luxe. I have a few quick questions if you don't mind helping me with:

1. If I install an optical drive, will I need to remove one of the front rectangular small panels permanently? Or can I have an optical drive and still leave the small rectangular panel intact?

2. What kind of air pressure does the default fan set up has with the 200mm in front and two 140mm at the back and top back?

3.Is installing an extra fan as easy as just plugging it into the fan hub at the back of the motherboard tray (plug and play)? Or are there some extra steps I need to take to get it working in sync with the other fans?

Thanks for all the help so far!


----------



## silverphill

It is a LARGE case but all the room to add water cooling & cable management with psu cover
i do like my case ALOT, but does dwarf other atx cases
The finish of brushed alloy effect of the Phantek Enthoo Pro is really nice with the window it's a great budget modding case


----------



## Strieng

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *silverphill*
> 
> It is a LARGE case but all the room to add water cooling & cable management with psu cover
> i do like my case ALOT, but does dwarf other atx cases:thumb:


Which case are you referring to?


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jasonm99*
> 
> I've decided I'll be sticking with the Luxe. I have a few quick questions if you don't mind helping me with:
> 
> 1. If I install an optical drive, will I need to remove one of the front rectangular small panels permanently? Or can I have an optical drive and still leave the small rectangular panel intact?
> 
> 2. What kind of air pressure does the default fan set up has with the 200mm in front and two 140mm at the back and top back?
> 
> 3.Is installing an extra fan as easy as just plugging it into the fan hub at the back of the motherboard tray (plug and play)? Or are there some extra steps I need to take to get it working in sync with the other fans?
> 
> Thanks for all the help so far!


1. Not sure what you are asking. Are you asking if you can install an ODD behind the blank?
2. Completely not sure what you are asking and don't even have a guess.
3. Yes, the fan can simply plug into the hub.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Strieng*
> 
> Which case are you referring to?


I would have to assume the Primo. It is the only Phanteks that dwarfs anything else.


----------



## Jasonm99

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> 1. Not sure what you are asking. Are you asking if you can install an ODD behind the blank?
> 2. Completely not sure what you are asking and don't even have a guess.
> 3. Yes, the fan can simply plug into the hub.


1. Was wondering if I can have an optical drive installed without having to remove that rectangular small panel. ( like have an optical drive and at the same time have the panel intact still (for aesthetic reasons) )

2. Does the default set up with 200mm in the front, two 140mm at the back and top give off a positive or negative air pressure? Neutral maybe? since the 200mm is so restrictive, I was wondering if the default set up would be a negative pressure.


----------



## Otterfluff

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *krzysgro*
> 
> Does anyone have an EK dual-d5 top with res mounted in the Prime? Or maybe a setup with two separate res+top combo (1-bracket, 2-back) and could post a pic? What about the vibrations with the dual-top?




I found it easy to mount just using the included ek brackets for the res, just tighten the screws in the mounting bracket so that it is firm and it stays in place sturdily when mounted to the res bracket. I put the bottom res bracket around the bottom of the D5 pump and it fits like a glove with the top one around the res.

I have not have any vibrations issues and I run my pumps at full speed 24/7.


----------



## Faster_is_better

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Otterfluff*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *krzysgro*
> 
> Does anyone have an EK dual-d5 top with res mounted in the Prime? Or maybe a setup with two separate res+top combo (1-bracket, 2-back) and could post a pic? What about the vibrations with the dual-top?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I found it easy to mount just using the included ek brackets for the res, just tighten the screws in the mounting bracket so that it is firm and it stays in place sturdily when mounted to the res bracket. I put the bottom res bracket around the bottom of the D5 pump and it fits like a glove with the top one around the res.
> 
> I have not have any vibrations issues and I run my pumps at full speed 24/7.
Click to expand...

That is a beast... and you even have external rads?


----------



## Otterfluff

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Faster_is_better*
> 
> That is a beast... and you even have external rads?


Yeah it connects to a MO-RA3 420 which is a tripple 420mm radiator with 18 phantek 140sp fans.



I also have dust filter on the intake of the MO-RA3 420!



It was a custom order from demcifilter.com and I find I get less dust in my room as the pc / MO-RA3 seem to filter out all the dust and collect in my filters. I had custom ones made to stick under my Primo where the 360 intake comes in as well as my front 420 intake, they magnetically attach to the case.


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tonza*
> 
> Thanks for explanation, decided to try and remove top panel completely just for the science, temperatures dropped 7-8 degrees... Think i will show some dremel to this top panel and cut piece off from it and put something like this to cover it and make it nice looking.
> 
> https://www.overclockers.co.uk/demciflex-dustfilter-set-for-360mm-radiator-black-black-cm-034-df.html


yea, I had this same experience with my H440. top exhaust was awful.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Otterfluff*
> 
> Yeah it connects to a MO-RA3 420 which is a tripple 420mm radiator with 18 phantek 140sp fans.
> 
> 
> 
> I also have dust filter on the intake of the MO-RA3 420!
> 
> 
> 
> It was a custom order from demcifilter.com and I find I get less dust in my room as the pc / MO-RA3 seem to filter out all the dust and collect in my filters. I had custom ones made to stick under my Primo where the 360 intake comes in as well as my front 420 intake, they magnetically attach to the case.


nice i considered something similar but ill probably do fine with just what i got to install now... the primo is a beast i think im gonna like it... just hard for me to look for green stuff.. ive never had a green accented build... so yeah


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Otterfluff*
> 
> 
> 
> I found it easy to mount just using the included ek brackets for the res, just tighten the screws in the mounting bracket so that it is firm and it stays in place sturdily when mounted to the res bracket. I put the bottom res bracket around the bottom of the D5 pump and it fits like a glove with the top one around the res.
> 
> I have not have any vibrations issues and I run my pumps at full speed 24/7.


Raising Primo up with 35-46m blocks under the feet gives much better airflow on bottom. Mine is on the floor so I made this
 

Now I use 30mm castors instead of 40mm. This makes total height increase about 43-45mm so it will fit under most desks.


----------



## Otterfluff

Yeah I saw your stand and like the idea but my primo is too tall to fit under my desk, and I do not want it rolling off the top of my desk









Since I do not use the included dust filters, it does add some more ventilation from the side.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Otterfluff*
> 
> Yeah I saw your stand and like the idea but my primo is too tall to fit under my desk, and I do not want it rolling off the top of my desk
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since I do not use the included dust filters, it does add some more ventilation from the side.


Changing the filters does increase the airflow area to bottom vents, but only because the stock airflow area is so limited. The case really need about 35mm more bottom clearance to get airflow area to fans to be similar to fan's airflow area.

But it is of little consequence as long as system runs cool enough .. and with the overkill you have it should be running cool enough.









At a guess, front and bottom are intake with top exhaust?


----------



## tonnytech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Raising Primo up with 35-46m blocks under the feet gives much better airflow on bottom. Mine is on the floor so I made this
> 
> 
> Now I use 30mm castors instead of 40mm. This makes total height increase about 43-45mm so it will fit under most desks.


i remember looking at this thread ages ago , really like the idea with the castors did you not post a diagram to make it with measurments etc earlier in thread ?? i tried searching but this thread is huge


----------



## doyll

I think I did.


----------



## Cube Rhino

Can anyone recommend some lighting for my build? I've never installed lights in a case before and not sure exactly what would fit nicely in here and accent the parts.


----------



## tonnytech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> I think I did.


any chance you may still have it , looked thru over 70 odd pages lol


----------



## KaffieneKing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cube Rhino*
> 
> Can anyone recommend some lighting for my build? I've never installed lights in a case before and not sure exactly what would fit nicely in here and accent the parts.


I would just buy some RGB LEDs if I were you, hook the power to 12v molex and put the receiver in the basement


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tonnytech*
> 
> any chance you may still have it , looked thru over 70 odd pages lol


I honestly don't know. I have fixtures made that I use to cut and machine the material when I make them. About the only measurement I use is what width I cut the material. Without looking at my marks on the wall I believe it is 38mm, but even that is checked to be sure the width fits perfectly into the corner lap-joint milling.


----------



## tonnytech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> I honestly don't know. I have fixtures made that I use to cut and machine the material when I make them. About the only measurement I use is what width I cut the material. Without looking at my marks on the wall I believe it is 38mm, but even that is checked to be sure the width fits perfectly into the corner lap-joint milling.


dident know you were on overclockers as well , I see you have made a few of these so ive sent pm with referance to castor base


----------



## Otterfluff

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Changing the filters does increase the airflow area to bottom vents, but only because the stock airflow area is so limited. The case really need about 35mm more bottom clearance to get airflow area to fans to be similar to fan's airflow area.
> 
> But it is of little consequence as long as system runs cool enough .. and with the overkill you have it should be running cool enough.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At a guess, front and bottom are intake with top exhaust?


There is a 240mm radiator with fans in push on the right side acting as intake as well, yes top is the exhaust.


----------



## sav4

Hi guys playing around with my luxe fans and have a question.
At the moment I have it set up 2 140mm fans front 1 bottom as intake, 1 140 rear exh and h240x top exhaust gpu is aftermarket dc2.
So I want to put the psu cover back in which will make the bottom fan not effective so was wondering how much that would effect gpu temps and if adding a fan to the h/d would help ?
Thanks in advance


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sav4*
> 
> Hi guys playing around with my luxe fans and have a question.
> At the moment I have it set up 2 140mm fans front 1 bottom as intake, 1 140 rear exh and h240x top exhaust gpu is aftermarket dc2.
> So I want to put the psu cover back in which will make the bottom fan not effective so was wondering how much that would effect gpu temps and if adding a fan to the h/d would help ?
> Thanks in advance


With 3x 140mm intakes and 2x 140mm on radiator as exhaust, and back exhaust fan I'm betting air is leaking ieaking in, not out .. meaning dust is getting in. I would unplug the back exhaust.

There are far so many acronyms flying around I can't keep up. 'dc2' means nothing to me .. and I'm not wasting my time trying to figure out what you didn't take a extra 2 seconds to give the full name of.









It seems you have at least a little knowledge of airflow. If you know my name you know I'm the 'airflow rev' .. always preaching about it. Best way to find out how well your system is flowing air is not by number of fans, but by monitoring the air temp going into components is compared to room .. especially under heavy sustained load. "Ways to Better Cooling' link in my sig, 2nd post is simple low cost way to do this. 5th post is basic guide to case airflow. If I had a nickel for every time I've typed that ...


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> There are far so many acronyms flying around I can't keep up. 'dc2' means nothing to me .. and I'm not wasting my time trying to figure out what you didn't take a extra 2 seconds to give the full name of.


ASUS DirectCU II 780 Ti is listed in his sig, Or, he is multiplying the US capital by itself.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> ASUS DirectCU II 780 Ti is listed in his sig, Or, he is multiplying the US capital by itself.











You are probably correct. I was not looking.

I'm getting cranky about wasting time trying to help when many won't listen to logic .. and even crankier when they can't even call a spade a spade, a sp to same a second or two.l Save their text talk for their buddies on their phones.


----------



## blurp

Here is my new Phanteks Enthoo Primo build. Upgraded from a CoolerMaster CM 690 II with 2 240 rads. Added a 480 rad on top. Placed one slim 240 rad in front and a fat one on the bottom. All rads are intake. I get better temps at lower fan RPM. Impressed with Phanteks 140 mm fans : Quiet, push a lot of air. Built a rolling table with wholes for air intake on the bottom. This case is awesome to work with. Lots of space, well thought. Love it. Even the wife likes it!


----------



## PetrasSukys

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blurp*


Did your GPU with WB fit in with the res bracket installed?


----------



## blurp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PetrasSukys*
> 
> Did your GPU with WB fit in with the res bracket installed?


Did a dremel job. Cut 1 cm x 1 cm hole.


----------



## DyndaS

First LC


----------



## Cube Rhino

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DyndaS*
> 
> First LC


Beautiful!


----------



## Triniboi82

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cube Rhino*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Can anyone recommend some lighting for my build? I've never installed lights in a case before and not sure exactly what would fit nicely in here and accent the parts.


NZXT HUE+, magnetic rgb led strips so very easy to mount, software controlled, highly recommended.


----------



## Faster_is_better

Some nice build pics popping up in here


----------



## BLAMM0

Mine after a white led strip.


----------



## Dorito Bandit

Phanteks Enthoo Pro

Newegg is currently having a sale on the Enthoo Pro for $89.99 ($79.99 after rebate) + free shipping! Not huge savings, but still a good deal.

If you've been thinking of getting this awesome case, now might be the time to do so.


----------



## yamaharacer19

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BLAMM0*
> 
> Mine after a white led strip.


I love what you did with the case. Black on the outside and white on the inside. Very nice!


----------



## BLAMM0

Thanks, one side is white though. I'm planning to add some black elements on it.


----------



## Terrabytez

Enthoo Pro with a X99 build within it


----------



## djchup

My Evolv ATX Build


----------



## doyll

Very nicely done guys!









We have some really outstanding builds in our group.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *djchup*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My Evolv ATX Build


Looks great!

I am actually in the process of redoing the loop in my Evolv ATX and was considering the MMRS....regardless of the fact that I have absolutely no need for a res or top. It's just so good looking. What size tube did you use there, the 150mm? I am doing a 30mm 360 up top and need to be able to get it underneath without removing the cover on top of the HDDs - I am thinking I may need to go to the 100mm.


----------



## djchup

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Looks great!
> 
> I am actually in the process of redoing the loop in my Evolv ATX and was considering the MMRS....regardless of the fact that I have absolutely no need for a res or top. It's just so good looking. What size tube did you use there, the 150mm? I am doing a 30mm 360 up top and need to be able to get it underneath without removing the cover on top of the HDDs - I am thinking I may need to go to the 100mm.


Yep, that's the 150mm tube.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *djchup*
> 
> Yep, that's the 150mm tube.


Thanks, much appreciated.


----------



## djchup

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Thanks, much appreciated.


No problem I actually have a couple of their 100mm tubes if you'd like me to hold one up next to my build in a photo for scale. I had originally intended to use 2x 100mm tubes with a coupler, but the fit was too tight for my taste (The pump enclosure part had to go down into the lower HDD cage area which meant the whole reservoir was nestled right up against my front radiator. Doing it this way gave me room to have the reservoir mounted further back in the case and do push/pull on my front radiator, I added the 3 extra sp120's yesterday (not in the photos as there were taken before). It seems to have helped a ton, the Evolv ATX has a fairly restricted front panel; especially with the air filter.

I also added some spacers to the front panel so that it rests 1/2" further forward allowing easier airflow (I can take photos of what I did when I get home from work if anyone is interested)


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *djchup*
> 
> No problem I actually have a couple of their 100mm tubes if you'd like me to hold one up next to my build in a photo for scale. I had originally intended to use 2x 100mm tubes with a coupler, but the fit was too tight for my taste (The pump enclosure part had to go down into the lower HDD cage area which meant the whole reservoir was nestled right up against my front radiator. Doing it this way gave me room to have the reservoir mounted further back in the case and do push/pull on my front radiator, I added the 3 extra sp120's yesterday (not in the photos as there were taken before). It seems to have helped a ton, the Evolv ATX has a fairly restricted front panel; especially with the air filter.
> 
> I also added some spacers to the front panel so that it rests 1/2" further forward allowing easier airflow (I can take photos of what I did when I get home from work if anyone is interested)


Thanks for the offer, but you don't need to go out of your way. I appreciate the help you have already given. The Evolv ATX was supposed to be a short layover for my system when I did an article on it, so I didn't go out of my way buying components specific to what I would do in the case. I was intending on moving back to the Luxe, but the Evolv really grew on me so I am simply looking to tidy it up a bit. I'm having a hard time justifying purchasing the MMRS since I already have a Photon 170 and EK X-Top, but given that I use all Monsoon white fittings, the MMRS would just really top off the look.

BTW - in reference to the airflow, seal the top. What I mean is that the open spaces on the radiator mount should be sealed off from the main chamber. The top exhaust is actually more of an issue in terms of restriction than the front. If the air being expelled by the rad is allowed to, it will seek the path of least resistance....which, of course, is right back to the top rad intakes. It causes a vicious cycle of recycled air that keeps getting warmer and kills the contributions of the top rad.


----------



## michael-ocn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *djchup*
> 
> ....
> I also added some spacers to the front panel so that it rests 1/2" further forward allowing easier airflow (I can take photos of what I did when I get home from work if anyone is interested)


Yes please!


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *djchup*
> 
> I also added some spacers to the front panel so that it rests 1/2" further forward allowing easier airflow (I can take photos of what I did when I get home from work if anyone is interested)


Also interested in how you spaced it out. I'm expecting my Evolv ATX early next week and can't many any plans on how to increase airflow without seeing some details of how the clip system attaches to front cover .. at least I'm guessign you put the spacer between cover and clip ??


----------



## djchup

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Also interested in how you spaced it out. I'm expecting my Evolv ATX early next week and can't many any plans on how to increase airflow without seeing some details of how the clip system attaches to front cover .. at least I'm guessign you put the spacer between cover and clip ??


Something like that, yeah. I'll be home in 2 hours or so and can get some pics.


----------



## djchup

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Also interested in how you spaced it out.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *michael-ocn*
> 
> Yes please!






So I added spacers between the bar with the clip-inserts on it and the front panel. To do this I needed longer screws. The #6-32 31mm radiator fan screws that are included with the case are too long, so I ordered these [link]. Any #6-32 screws will work, length is preference. I just used nuts/washers I had laying around to make the spacer. I'm not sure the exact sizes of the nuts and washers I used as I already had them. On each end I used some rubber grommet things I had laying around to add some elasticity to tighten the screws against (probably not necessary). The functionality of the case isn't hurt, better airflow, slightly (?) worse aesthetics but I doubt anyone will notice.


----------



## michael-ocn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *djchup*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I added spacers between the bar with the clip-inserts on it and the front panel. To do this I needed longer screws. The #6-32 31mm radiator fan screws that are included with the case are too long, so I ordered these [link]. Any #6-32 screws will work, length is preference. I just used nuts/washers I had laying around to make the spacer. I'm not sure the exact sizes of the nuts and washers I used as I already had them. On each end I used some rubber grommet things I had laying around to add some elasticity to tighten the screws against (probably not necessary). The functionality of the case isn't hurt, better airflow, slightly (?) worse aesthetics but I doubt anyone will notice.


Thnx for such great pics and explanation! That's easy-peasy and looks just fine. Are the front panel usb/headphone/mic jacks still usable enuf like that?


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *djchup*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I added spacers between the bar with the clip-inserts on it and the front panel. To do this I needed longer screws. The #6-32 31mm radiator fan screws that are included with the case are too long, so I ordered these [link]. Any #6-32 screws will work, length is preference. I just used nuts/washers I had laying around to make the spacer. I'm not sure the exact sizes of the nuts and washers I used as I already had them. On each end I used some rubber grommet things I had laying around to add some elasticity to tighten the screws against (probably not necessary). The functionality of the case isn't hurt, better airflow, slightly (?) worse aesthetics but I doubt anyone will notice.


Good explanation and pics. Was how I was hoping braceket was mounted.


----------



## Kilo11

Got a question for any Evolv ATX case owners, have you tried putting LED lit fans on the front intake, I'm curious if the lighting shows? Also has anyone tried using BitFenix Alchemy 2.0 magnetic LED lighting strips inside the case?


----------



## michael-ocn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kilo11*
> 
> Got a question for any Evolv ATX case owners, have you tried putting LED lit fans on the front intake, I'm curious if the lighting shows? Also has anyone tried using BitFenix Alchemy 2.0 magnetic LED lighting strips inside the case?


nope and nope. do magnets stick to aluminum?


----------



## Kilo11

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *michael-ocn*
> 
> nope and nope. do magnets stick to aluminum?


Frame is steel according to specs, while outer panels are aluminum. Would run the strips inside on anything steel, not on the panels.


----------



## michael-ocn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kilo11*
> 
> Frame is steel according to specs, while outer panels are aluminum. Would run the strips inside on anything steel, not on the panels.


ah... ok... the mag running down the alum tube in that vid is neat'o


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *michael-ocn*
> 
> nope and nope. do magnets stick to aluminum?


I heard there might be aluminium magnets, but not aluminum ones. Maybe that magnet and can are both aluminium.








Are you related to Ishmael?









Can hardly wait for my Evolv ATX to get here.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *djchup*
> 
> So I added spacers between the bar with the clip-inserts on it and the front panel. To do this I needed longer screws. The #6-32 31mm radiator fan screws that are included with the case are too long, so I ordered these [link]. Any #6-32 screws will work, length is preference. I just used nuts/washers I had laying around to make the spacer. I'm not sure the exact sizes of the nuts and washers I used as I already had them. On each end I used some rubber grommet things I had laying around to add some elasticity to tighten the screws against (probably not necessary). The functionality of the case isn't hurt, better airflow, slightly (?) worse aesthetics but I doubt anyone will notice.


Great idea, and easy for anyone to do. Evolv ATX users ow you many thanks!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kilo11*
> 
> Frame is steel according to specs, while outer panels are aluminum. Would run the strips inside on anything steel, not on the panels.


They stick to the inner chassis and top rad insert with no problem.


----------



## michael-ocn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> I heard there might be aluminium magnets, but not aluminum ones. Maybe that magnet and can are both aluminium.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Are you related to Ishmael?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Can hardly wait for my Evolv ATX to get here.


Hmmm, idk, are you friends with Herman


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *michael-ocn*
> 
> Hmmm, idk, are you friends with Herman


Never met him, but hear he was an interesting person.








Your avatar reminds me of the 1992 Ishmael story that starts with
_
The first time I read the ad, I choked and cursed and spat and threw the paper to the floor. Since
even this didn't seem to be quite enough, I snatched it up, marched into the kitchen, and shoved it
into the trash. While I was there, I made myself a little breakfast and gave myself some time to cool
down. I ate and thought about something else entirely. That's right.

Then I dug the paper out of the trash and turned back to the Personals section, just to see if the damn thing was still there and just the way I remembered it. It was. TEACHER seeks pupil. Must have an earnest desire to save the world. Apply in person. ..._

by Daniel Quinn

not the classic 1851 one starting with
_
Call me Ishmael. Some years ago - never mind how long precisely - having little or no money in my purse, and nothing particular to interest me on shore, I thought I would sail about a little and see the watery part of the world. It is a way I have of driving off the spleen and regulating the circulation. ..._

by Herman Melville


----------



## michael-ocn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Never met him, but hear he was an interesting person.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Your avatar reminds me of the 1992 Ishmael story that starts with
> _
> The first time I read the ad, I choked and cursed and spat and threw the paper to the floor. Since
> even this didn't seem to be quite enough, I snatched it up, marched into the kitchen, and shoved it
> into the trash. While I was there, I made myself a little breakfast and gave myself some time to cool
> down. I ate and thought about something else entirely. That's right.
> 
> Then I dug the paper out of the trash and turned back to the Personals section, just to see if the damn thing was still there and just the way I remembered it. It was. TEACHER seeks pupil. Must have an earnest desire to save the world. Apply in person. ..._
> 
> by Daniel Quinn
> 
> not the classic 1851 one starting with
> _
> Call me Ishmael. Some years ago - never mind how long precisely - having little or no money in my purse, and nothing particular to interest me on shore, I thought I would sail about a little and see the watery part of the world. It is a way I have of driving off the spleen and regulating the circulation. ..._
> 
> by Herman Melville


Excellent! I've a new book to read once i'm done with this sci-fi page turner i'm in the middle of. How is it that the kindle edition is more expensive than the paperback edition? That seems not right. At least its not quite as wrong as pharmaceutical pricing.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *michael-ocn*
> 
> Excellent! I've a new book to read once i'm done with this sci-fi page turner i'm in the middle of. How is it that the kindle edition is more expensive than the paperback edition? That seems not right. At least its not quite as wrong as pharmaceutical pricing.


When you read it, please let me know your impression and thoughts of the book.


----------



## owcraftsman

Just a heads up if anyone is interested White Enthoo Luxe $119 after $20 MIR at the EGG LINK


----------



## CmdrCash

Phanteks Enthoo Primo, Avexir Core DDR4 RAM, Corsair h100i gtx, Corsair LED fans. I like blue lights in my PC.


----------



## PureBlackFire

^that is clearly an Enthoo Primo, not an Enthoo Pro.


----------



## CmdrCash

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PureBlackFire*
> 
> ^that is clearly an Enthoo Primo, not an Enthoo Pro.


Damn, of course you're right.


----------



## doyll

*Phanteks has announced the relaease of Eclipes series!*


----------



## Dutchfox22

I love the freedom of the case Phantek Enthoo Pro, still much to do ;-)





specs : Asus MAXIMUS V EXTREME / Intel Core i7 3770K/G Skill 1866 mhz 16gb/MSI GTX 970 4gb /Seasonic Platinum Series 660 Watt/ corsair h110i gtx /Samsung 850Evo 500gb/ hue+


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> *Phanteks has announced the relaease of Eclipes series!*
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Was just reading a review on this case and it is really close to amazing for an entry level case. For some reason Phanteks did not design the case for top rad mounting, not tall enough and not enough mounting offset. Shame really.


----------



## PureBlackFire

I don't like the P400. I can't really see the point of this case and they missed so many marks. they really should have just implemented some of the things found on this case in the already existing Pro M. also, going from $70 (too close to the Pro m already) to $90 depending on which SKU you buy is nuts. Phanteks needed a $50 case (still with better execution than this) and they needed to repackage the Pro M with two cheap 120 mm fans and an extra SSD bracket. I hope they make a poll or Q and A in this thread before they plan to release their next case because they are on a steep, downward trend.


----------



## doyll

I think the intent was to present a different look. To day they have 2 basic looks Enthoos' and Evolvs'. Now they add the Eclipses'.

Some people like nice square line, some like the more solid look of this aluminum panels, and some like un-square lines. I haven't decided if I like it's looks or not yet. Didn't like the Evolv at first, but do now.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PureBlackFire*
> 
> I don't like the P400. I can't really see the point of this case and they missed so many marks. they really should have just implemented some of the things found on this case in the already existing Pro M. also, going from $70 (too close to the Pro m already) to $90 depending on which SKU you buy is nuts. Phanteks needed a $50 case (still with better execution than this) and they needed to repackage the Pro M with two cheap 120 mm fans and an extra SSD bracket. I hope they make a poll or Q and A in this thread before they plan to release their next case because they are on a steep, downward trend.


Agreed. A couple of tweaks on the Pro M would have served them better. I do like the look of the nose better on this, but no top rad? Really?


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> I think the intent was to present a different look. To day they have 2 basic looks Enthoos' and Evolvs'. Now they add the Eclipses'.
> 
> Some people like nice square line, some like the more solid look of this aluminum panels, and some like un-square lines. I haven't decided if I like it's looks or not yet. Didn't like the Evolv at first, but do now.


I actually really like the look of the Eclipse, but I'm the type to scrutinize cases based on everything but looks as they are subjective and will be either good or bad depending on who you ask, and that's where this thing fails, everywhere else.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Agreed. A couple of tweaks on the Pro M would have served them better. I do like the look of the nose better on this, but no top rad? Really?


exactly. we didn't need this, nobody asked for it and the execution on several things just keeps getting worse. the 



 review was pretty harsh, but almost all are very valid points. he didn't even touch on the fact that adding any front mount radiator removes the mounting for optional hard drive brackets and the fact that just as in the Pro M and Evolv ATX, adding a 360 rad in the front removes all hard drive mounting. and that is an issue that could be solved easily on the Pro M and Evolv ATX by having the ability (which none of their cases have, though with their first three releases I can see why) to move the hard drive cage closer to the psu. there is plenty of space.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PureBlackFire*
> 
> exactly. we didn't need this, nobody asked for it and the execution on several things just keeps getting worse. the
> 
> 
> 
> review was pretty harsh, but almost all are very valid points. he didn't even touch on the fact that adding any front mount radiator removes the mounting for optional hard drive brackets and the fact that just as in the Pro M and Evolv ATX, adding a 360 rad in the front removes all hard drive mounting. and that is an issue that could be solved easily on the Pro M and Evolv ATX by having the ability (which none of their cases have, though with their first three releases I can see why) to move the hard drive cage closer to the psu. there is plenty of space.


I, personally, would have liked the HDD moved to the back behind the res/optional HDD area. They fit back there but there is no way to cleanly mount them. Adding the drop and locks back there would have made the Evolv ATX/Pro M so much more attractive to me. Well, that and making them an inch taller so you could fit two 360mm rads.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PureBlackFire*
> 
> I actually really like the look of the Eclipse, but I'm the type to scrutinize cases based on everything but looks as they are subjective and will be either good or bad depending on who you ask, and that's where this thing fails, everywhere else.
> exactly. we didn't need this, nobody asked for it and the execution on several things just keeps getting worse. the
> 
> 
> 
> review was pretty harsh, but almost all are very valid points. he didn't even touch on the fact that adding any front mount radiator removes the mounting for optional hard drive brackets and the fact that just as in the Pro M and Evolv ATX, adding a 360 rad in the front removes all hard drive mounting. and that is an issue that could be solved easily on the Pro M and Evolv ATX by having the ability (which none of their cases have, though with their first three releases I can see why) to move the hard drive cage closer to the psu. there is plenty of space.


While I'm not sure abut the Eclipse series, I will give it a chance. Just because some don't like it doesn't mean everyone else won't like it Considering how well most other Phanteks cases have been received, I would assume they have good reason to build the Eclipse series Only time will tell.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> I, personally, would have liked the HDD moved to the back behind the res/optional HDD area. They fit back there but there is no way to cleanly mount them. Adding the drop and locks back there would have made the Evolv ATX/Pro M so much more attractive to me. Well, that and making them an inch taller so you could fit two 360mm rads.


Mounts for HDDs in back is a good idea.

Filter wise, I had how all case makers with almost no exception have the PSU filter pull ou the back. To me this is total stupid If it slid forward and out the front or even out the side. If they did this we wouldn't have to pull the case away from te wall to get get the darn filter out and clean it.

Fact is the Enthoo Luxe is a perfect example of blind design engineers. If the PSU filter is taped to the front pull out filter both can be pulled out and put back in from the front of case. Mine is and it works great!


----------



## PureBlackFire

^ I also taped my filters together on my Luxe.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PureBlackFire*
> 
> ^ I also taped my filters together on my Luxe.


I kinda wish the filters on the primo came out the front... the side is nice if you have room but in my situation i dont.. i have a 46inch tv ... two game systems and my pc as well as another pc and 32 in tv turned 45 degrees on the end for my fiance and i to play at the same time... so once shes set up ill have to move her large badonk to take the filters out... im considering buying a better smaller monitor maybe 1440... and mounting the 46 inch tv on the wall... that would free up plenty of real estate there....problem is i would have to remove everything and stand on the desk to install the tv on the wall as its an oak 4 foot by 6 foot desk custom made 40 or more years ago.. one peice... about 1k lbs...im not moving it anytime soon...it took me about 4 hours to get it through the door...


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> I kinda wish the filters on the primo came out the front... the side is nice if you have room but in my situation i dont.. i have a 46inch tv ... two game systems and my pc as well as another pc and 32 in tv turned 45 degrees on the end for my fiance and i to play at the same time... so once shes set up ill have to move her large badonk to take the filters out... im considering buying a better smaller monitor maybe 1440... and mounting the 46 inch tv on the wall... that would free up plenty of real estate there....problem is i would have to remove everything and stand on the desk to install the tv on the wall as its an oak 4 foot by 6 foot desk custom made 40 or more years ago.. one peice... about 1k lbs...im not moving it anytime soon...it took me about 4 hours to get it through the door...


The placement of cases means almost none will allow filters to be slide out the back without moving the computer. Side acess is better, but still many cases have things on one or both sides. But few case have anything in front of them. So it would seem removing filters from the front would be the logical way to go.


----------



## PSILVA

I have the chance to buy a phanteks case, I have two hypotheses, luxe black w/ window used (one year, without damage or risk) for 80 € and a new pro for 96 €, which you think is the better deal?

The case is for aircooling but in the future maybe a use a AIO from EK (predator 240) or Swiftech (H240x).


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PSILVA*
> 
> I have the chance to buy a phanteks case, I have two hypotheses, luxe black w/ window used (one year, without damage or risk) for 80 € and a new pro for 96 €, which you think is the better deal?
> 
> The case is for aircooling but in the future maybe a use a AIO from EK (predator 240) or Swiftech (H240x).


If the Luxe is in good condition and comes complete with all of the accessories, I would go that route. BTW - the H240-X2 (dual 140mm) looks like it was made to go into the Luxe and Pro. It looks phenomenal in those cases.


----------



## Pirazy

Is anyone with a Primo running 2x480 top/bottom and a 240 on the side mount with the pump in the lower compartment and the res mounted next to the gfx? I'm having a real hard time figuring out how to run the tubing as I find it really inflexible (16/10 primochill) and there's very little space between the PSU, the pump and the 240 rad.

It's gotten to the point where I'm considering dumping the 240 and save myself a headache, which would be a shame since then I'd have a bunch of leftover gear.

Edit: I would have included pics but I'm at work now, can include some tomorrow if needed.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PSILVA*
> 
> I have the chance to buy a phanteks case, I have two hypotheses, luxe black w/ window used (one year, without damage or risk) for 80 € and a new pro for 96 €, which you think is the better deal?
> 
> The case is for aircooling but in the future maybe a use a AIO from EK (predator 240) or Swiftech (H240x).


What ciarlatano said. I need to put a delay on his internet so I get to answer first once in awhile.







Luxe for 16 € with more features is definitely the way I would go. Just out of curiosity, what does a new Luxe cost?


----------



## PSILVA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> What ciarlatano said. I need to put a delay on his internet so I get to answer first once in awhile.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Luxe for 16 € with more features is definitely the way I would go. Just out of curiosity, what does a new Luxe cost?


140,98eur


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PSILVA*
> 
> 140,98eur


Thanks. They are great cases. I would go with the Luxe. Only things that needs done is put the 2x PH-F140SP fans in the front and either leave the 200mm out or put it in the top, depending on what your components and cooling are.








I also modded the bottom slide of mine so PSU filter could be slid forward against the vent filter that slides out the front and tape the two together. Now I can pull out the all filters from the bottom and clean them without needing to move the case.
Oh, and my Luxe sets on a caster base with a 3rd PH-F140SP bottom intake with no exhaust fans. 3x PH-F140SP move more than enough air to keep everything cool.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pirazy*
> 
> Is anyone with a Primo running 2x480 top/bottom and a 240 on the side mount with the pump in the lower compartment and the res mounted next to the gfx? I'm having a real hard time figuring out how to run the tubing as I find it really inflexible (16/10 primochill) and there's very little space between the PSU, the pump and the 240 rad.
> 
> It's gotten to the point where I'm considering dumping the 240 and save myself a headache, which would be a shame since then I'd have a bunch of leftover gear.
> 
> Edit: I would have included pics but I'm at work now, can include some tomorrow if needed.


I will be doing so very soon...from my measurements I'm going to need at least one 90 fitting to make routing easier from the pump...my plan is to have the ports all on the front side...with cpu to gpus then to res then pump then to my h220x on the side mount and through both rads then back....


----------



## PSILVA

I have 4 Noisebloker M12-3 from my actual case, are they better then the PH-F140SP?


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PureBlackFire*
> 
> ^ I also taped my filters together on my Luxe.


You have any problems with it? I just noticed a little dust in very back of PSU. Haven't time to investigate further right now, but think it's because the PSU filter is a little to far forward and is allowing a little unfiltered air to link in on the back side.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PSILVA*
> 
> 140,98eur


I don't know if the filter trick can be done on Enthoo Pro but here is liink to what I did on Luxe.
http://www.overclock.net/t/1418637/official-case-phanteks-case-club-for-lovers-owners/10220_20#post_24095206


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> You have any problems with it? I just noticed a little dust in very back of PSU. Haven't time to investigate further right now, but think it's because the PSU filter is a little to far forward and is allowing a little unfiltered air to link in on the back side.


no. my HX750i's fan is always set to off as it's winter in NY and the thing doesn't reach higher than 35c after hours of use. I did use some crappy painter's tape so it's ripping a bit when I remove the filter.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PureBlackFire*
> 
> no. my HX750i's fan is always set to off as it's winter in NY and the thing doesn't reach higher than 35c after hours of use. I did use some crappy painter's tape so it's ripping a bit when I remove the filter.


Thanks for the reply.
I used boxing tape and it's holding up fine.


----------



## PSILVA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PSILVA*
> 
> I have 4 Noisebloker M12-3 from my actual case, are they better then the PH-F140SP?


Doyll what do you think about this fans?


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PSILVA*
> 
> Doyll what do you think about this fans?


They are fans.
They move air, more air the faster they go.
They make noise, more noise the faster they go.

As for use as case fans, it depends on what you plan t put in the case and what other fans you will be using.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> They are fans.
> They move air, more air the faster they go.
> They make noise, more noise the faster they go.
> 
> As for use as case fans, it depends on what you plan t put in the case and what other fans you will be using.


While this is all completely true, being a little more specific.....

In the users circumstance, he would be putting them into a Luxe or Pro. So, essentially he is asking if two 120mm Noiseblockers would be a better choice than two 140SP. Clearly the answer would be "no", as the 140SP is capable of moving significantly more air at similar speeds and/or noise levels.


----------



## doyll

@PSILVA
You might be able to use them somewhere in the case, depending on what you are putting in it.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> @PSILVA
> You might be able to use them somewhere in the case, depending on what you are putting in it.


Two of them certainly _would_ be preferable to the included 200mm.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Two of them certainly _would_ be preferable to the included 200mm.


But don't you think two PH-F140SP are still preferable to two of them?
I have not used them, so don't know how good (or bad) they are.


----------



## PSILVA

So my plans are:

2 Front PH-F140SP (intake)

1 Noisebloker M12-3 bottom (intake)

1 1 Noisebloker M12-3 botton rear (exhaust)

1 or 2 1 Noisebloker M12-3 top (exhaust)

All fans and PH-TC14PE connected to the fan hub from phanteks.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> But don't you think two PH-F140SP are still preferable to two of them?
> I have not used them, so don't know how good (or bad) they are.


Yes, I already stated that.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PSILVA*
> 
> So my plans are:
> 
> 2 Front PH-F140SP (intake)
> 
> 1 Noisebloker M12-3 bottom (intake)
> 
> 1 1 Noisebloker M12-3 botton rear (exhaust)
> 
> 1 or 2 1 Noisebloker M12-3 top (exhaust)
> 
> All fans and PH-TC14PE connected to the fan hub from phanteks.


You have a lot of open air at the top of the Luxe, which is a good thing. That should work with one top fan in the rearmost mounting location.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PSILVA*
> 
> So my plans are:
> 
> 2 Front PH-F140SP (intake)
> 
> 1 Noisebloker M12-3 bottom (intake)
> 
> 1 1 Noisebloker M12-3 botton rear (exhaust)
> 
> 1 or 2 1 Noisebloker M12-3 top (exhaust)
> 
> All fans and PH-TC14PE connected to the fan hub from phanteks.


Front: 2x PH-F140SP intake
Bottom: 1x M12-3 intake
Back: 1x M12-3 exhaust
Top, back most: 1x M12-3 exhaust.
Remove all unused PCIe back slot covers.
Any more top exhaust usually increased the draw of warm air from GPU up and into the airlfow going to CPU cooler.


----------



## PSILVA

Ok, thanks Doyll and ciarlatano:thumb:


----------



## shilka

Updated my build log if anyone want to see how it turned out
Project Arios / Seravee


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PSILVA*
> 
> Ok, thanks Doyll and ciarlatano:thumb:


No problem! Please keep us posted how it goes and turns out.


----------



## michael-ocn

I used the pwm variant of the noiseblocker multiframe in my old rig. Freakishly quiet fan and the noise it does make has nice tonal qualities. Mine ran up to 2000 rpm, you could hear it at that speed but it was surprising how fast it had to get going before it become very audible. They're good fans, but pretty expensive..


----------



## Avant Garde

Which case would you guys recommend Evolv ATX, PRIMO or Luxe for some quiet AIO cooled system with good airflow with some Noctua fans or some other quiet ones ?

I will get a new system (probably X99 platform) this year and I'm in search for a good looking, functional case. Evolv ATX is beautiful though.

EDIT: I'm not interested in PRIMO, it's too big.


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Avant Garde*
> 
> Which case would you guys recommend Evolv ATX, PRIMO or Luxe for some quiet AIO cooled system with good airflow with some Noctua fans or some other quiet ones ?
> 
> I will get a new system (probably X99 platform) this year and I'm in search for a good looking, functional case. Evolv ATX is beautiful though.
> 
> EDIT: I'm not interested in PRIMO, it's too big.


Dont bother with AIO cooling unless you are talking about a Swiftech or EK cooler.
Its a common misconception that CLC AIO coolers are better then air coolers and its simply not true.


----------



## Avant Garde

I know all that but I hate dust and I want aesthetically clean look. My choices would be this new Swiftech AIO, H115i, Deepcool Captain or NZXT X61 with some Noctua fans.


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Avant Garde*
> 
> I know all that but I hate dust and I want aesthetically clean look. My choices would be this new Swiftech AIO, H115i, Deepcool Captain or NZXT X61 with some Noctua fans.


Get one of the Swiftech ones then dont bother with the others.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Avant Garde*
> 
> Which case would you guys recommend Evolv ATX, PRIMO or Luxe for some quiet AIO cooled system with good airflow with some Noctua fans or some other quiet ones ?
> 
> I will get a new system (probably X99 platform) this year and I'm in search for a good looking, functional case. Evolv ATX is beautiful though.
> 
> EDIT: I'm not interested in PRIMO, it's too big.


What shilka said.








AIO/CLC and 'quiet' are polar opposites.








All CLCs are AIO, but not all AIO are CLC. Only Swiftech and new EK Predator are not CLC
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Avant Garde*
> 
> I know all that but I hate dust and I want aesthetically clean look. My choices would be this new Swiftech AIO, H115i, Deepcool Captain or NZXT X61 with some Noctua fans.


Hating dust is one subject.
AIO/CLC are a different subject.

Only the Swiftech will be quiet.

Putting 'Noctua fans' or similar does not solve the problem of CLCs' cheap hi-density radiators that require high pressure fan and high speeds to get rid of heat.

Also, are you going to put everything in your system under water or just CPU or GPU?

Lots of variables we need to know in order to give you suggestions bases od data and not just random guesses.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Avant Garde*
> 
> I know all that but I hate dust and I want aesthetically clean look. My choices would be this new Swiftech AIO, H115i, Deepcool Captain or NZXT X61 with some Noctua fans.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> Get one of the Swiftech ones then dont bother with the others.


This. You are comparing a new Bentley to some used 1974 Ford Pintos with 364,000 miles.

And do a Luxe or Evolv ATX. The Primo was made for larger custom loops - put an AiO in one and it looks like a giant empty box with empty spaces for components that aren't there. The H240-X2 looks fantastic in the Luxe, it fits like a glove.


----------



## Avant Garde

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Also, are you going to put everything in your system under water or just CPU or GPU?


Only CPU.

Let me summarize :

1. I don't want dust in my case or on my desk
2. I would like that my system to have a clean aesthetically pleasing look
3. I would like as less noise as possible
4. PC case must have a window
5. I don't want my system choking in high temps

I'm fully aware that AIO will generate some noise (mainly pump) maybe a few dB above some high end air coolers but I'm also counting on that I will not leave my case open so it will be a couple of dB down in terms of that noise level, of course all that with some quality aftermarket fans if necessary.


----------



## doyll

Just unboxed my Evolv ATX. Sweet!
While the vent area problem is rather evident, I did a quick panel disassembly and it seems with spaces and longer screws as djchup posted solves this.
It looks like this same technique can be used to space the front I/O jacks/sockets out as well
Top looks like it can be spaced up using the same technique panel and on/off switch.

I will either make wooden spacers or get some plastic ones something like http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/12-Pack-M6-6-3-mm-Inside-D-Nylon-Plastic-Spacers-Various-Sizes-and-Lengths-/231063250182?var=&/748032
.hash=item35cc716506:m:m83Kn_qgDKqTDOiMEmnM_Tw]these[/URL]

After examining the side panels it appears the only difference (besides window) between the sides is the hinges is the engineer did not use symmetrical spacing of the front pins That simple thought or making the pins making them mirror images would have allowed panels to be switched from side to side. .







.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Avant Garde*
> 
> Only CPU.
> 
> Let me summarize :
> 
> 1. I don't want dust in my case or on my desk
> 2. I would like that my system to have a clean aesthetically pleasing look
> 3. I would like as less noise as possible
> 4. PC case must have a window
> 5. I don't want my system choking in high temps
> 
> I'm fully aware that AIO will generate some noise (mainly pump) maybe a few dB above some high end air coolers but I'm also counting on that I will not leave my case open so it will be a couple of dB down in terms of that noise level, of course all that with some quality aftermarket fans if necessary.


What you are describing is an H240-X2 in a Luxe.

I'm not sure where you are getting this (entirely incorrect) information about CLCs (the Swiftech is *not* a CLC) and their noise issues..... The pump is the *least* of your noise concerns - CLCs (the X61/H110i/Deepcool/etc/etc) use inefficient aluminum rads with high fpi that are designed for and require high speed fans to operate effectively. Because of this, there is no magic aftermarket fan that provides similar or better cooling with less noise - the rad still needs the same amount of air to do the job regardless of what fan is on there. You will get the same performance with the same amount of air going through the rad - so the stock fan at 1300 rpm will show no real difference from a Noctua at 1300 rpm.

Look at the results below, paying attention to the noise levels along with the cooling performance. If you want as little noise as possible, a CLC is your worst possible option.


----------



## Avant Garde

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> What you are describing is an H240-X2 in a Luxe.


Ok, thank you very much. Why Luxe and not Evolv ATX ?


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Avant Garde*
> 
> Only CPU.
> 
> Let me summarize :
> 
> 1. I don't want dust in my case or on my desk
> 2. I would like that my system to have a clean aesthetically pleasing look
> 3. I would like as less noise as possible
> 4. PC case must have a window
> 5. I don't want my system choking in high temps
> 
> I'm fully aware that AIO will generate some noise (mainly pump) maybe a few dB above some high end air coolers but I'm also counting on that I will not leave my case open so it will be a couple of dB down in terms of that noise level, of course all that with some quality aftermarket fans if necessary.


While I understand what you are saying,
1. CLC still moves as much or more air through the case with it's 2x 120mm fans or 2x 140mm fans worth of airflow. And that is only the airflow needed for the CLC. You still need airflow for your GPU, which more often than not will use as much or more airflow than CPU cooler or radiator. This is because most GPUs generate more heat than most CPUs do. A good rule of thumb is 2-3x 140mm intake fans will supply the air needed for components.

2. Clean and aesthetics do not always work together.

3. Using a CLC will make more noise than even a low end air cooler.

4. Fine have a window. Look at coolers like be quiet!, Cryorig, and Thermalright True Spirit 140 or Macho for aesthetically pleasing coolers









5. Choking at high temps is a relative term. A well setup air cooled system will be much quieter, run as cool or cooler, and with proper use of filters stay clean. Enthoo Luxe with 2x 140mm front and 1x 140mm intakes will run clean, cool and quiet. Tape the bottom filters together with box tape and you don't even need to move the case to pull out all bottom filters for cleaning.

Edit: I just unboxed my Evolv. It appears to have less airflow than the Luxe. We have seem reports of problems with airflow in Evolv while Luxe has few or none of these problems. ciarlatano and I have both cases.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Avant Garde*
> 
> Ok, thank you very much. Why Luxe and not Evolv ATX ?


Actually....either or. I have both and I have nothing bad to say about the Evolv ATX in that type of setup - unless you are planning on using more than two mechanical drives.

However, keep in mind that the Evolv sees much better performance with top mounted rads if you take the time to isolate them so that they don't keep recirculating heated air since the exhaust is restrictive. It's very easy to do - just some foam, cardboard, etc. to seal up the empty spots in the rad tray.

As @doyll pointed out, the Luxe has much better airflow out of the box, the Evolv is quieter (which he will soon find out).


----------



## Avant Garde

Oh man, I don't want to sound lazy but I'm gonna spend over 180EUR for Evolv ATX and again I have to mod something to get better airflow, that is so exhausting.
My plans are two SSD's and two HDD's. AIO on top with pull config. I would like to see more photos of setups in this case here...


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Avant Garde*
> 
> Oh man, I don't want to sound lazy but I'm gonna spend over 180EUR for Evolv ATX and again I have to mod something to get better airflow, that is so exhausting.
> My plans are two SSD's and two HDD's. AIO on top with pull config. I would like to see more photos of setups in this case here...


This is for you










If you want to run with the big dogs you have to get off your porch.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Avant Garde*
> 
> Oh man, I don't want to sound lazy but I'm gonna spend over 180EUR for Evolv ATX and again I have to mod something to get better airflow, that is so exhausting.
> My plans are two SSD's and two HDD's. AIO on top with pull config. I would like to see more photos of setups in this case here...


Up on the top right of the page, hit "show all" under recent images. There is an insane number of photos of Pro, Luxe and Evolv pics.

And the "mod" takes about 10 minutes if you only use one hand.


----------



## Avant Garde

Ok. Got it









Mine should look something like this : https://pcpartpicker.com/b/Zgf8TW

Or like this :


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Avant Garde*
> 
> Ok. Got it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mine should look something like this : https://pcpartpicker.com/b/Zgf8TW
> 
> Or like this :


Well, the H240-X2 is a *lot* better looking than that Corsair....but, essentially, yes.


----------



## Avant Garde

Yeah I agree but now I'm watching Dimitri's video about this case and just noticed some new user experience comments in which he claims that Fractal Define R5 is more silent than Evolv ATX... I would like to know more about this case acoustics. This is the best looking case I've ever seen so far. Evolv ATX Silver version is just too classy for all other cases on the market today. (side note: not this one in the video)


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Avant Garde*
> 
> Yeah I agree but now I'm watching Dimitri's video about this case and just noticed some new user experience comments in which he claims that Fractal Define R5 is more silent than Evolv ATX... I would like to know more about this case acoustics. This is the best looking case I've ever seen so far. Evolv ATX Silver version is just too classy for all other cases on the market today. (side note: not this one in the video)


I don't agree. I have used the R5, also. The only reason it is quieter out of the box is because it comes with fans that move very little air. Also, one you remove the Moduvents for the top rad, the R5 has more direct fan noise from that....so the Evolv ATX winds up being quieter for what you are looking to do.

And, yes, the silver is great looking. I also happen to like the gunmetal in the video just as much, but that is all personal preference.


----------



## Lanvin

Anyone know which is the best phanteks case for air cooling? I have a NH-D15 for my 4770k and SLI'd 980ti non-reference cards(blowing inside the case)

Primarily choosing between Primo and Evolv ATX. No plans to watercool.

Should I look at another brand for my needs?


----------



## Tonza

What kind of mods you guys have done to Enthoo Evolv ATX top panel when using top mounted rads?... I have been rolling without the top panel for couple weeks now since temperatures will drop like 10-15c when you remove it... I just ordered Phobya 360 Hexx grill and will dremel top panel and fit that there (should be the same temperatures after that vs completely removed). Will post some pictures when i get the grill and have done the mod.


----------



## doyll

The anthracite / gun metal gray is a really nice cooler. Hides dust much better than black too. Much richer lookng than bare aluminum .. at least to me.

I've just about figured out all the bits to raise the top 6-10mm and space the front out the same. Can get spacers and screws from eBay for around £5.00.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> I don't agree. I have used the R5, also. The only reason it is quieter out of the box is because it comes with fans that move very little air. Also, one you remove the Moduvents for the top rad, the R5 has more direct fan noise from that....so the Evolv ATX winds up being quieter for what you are looking to do.
> 
> And, yes, the silver is great looking. I also happen to like the gunmetal in the video just as much, but that is all personal preference.


I agree with ciarlatano, the Define D5 may be slightly quieter even with different fans. But overall how quiet a system is has more to do with components and fans than the case. A case is like a muffler on a car. While it can block noise with it's solid parts, openings (like the muffler's intake and exhauust) transmit the noise out of the case. The fact most of these openings in a case are vents with fans in them means the fan noise is usually the biggest source of sound coming from the system.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> The anthracite / gun metal gray is a really nice cooler. Hides dust much better than black too. Much richer lookng than bare aluminum .. at least to me.
> 
> I've just about figured out all the bits to raise the top 6-10mm and space the front out the same. Can get spacers and screws from eBay for around £5.00.
> 
> I agree with ciarlatano, the Define D5 may be slightly quieter even with different fans. But overall how quiet a system is has more to do with components and fans than the case. A case is like a muffler on a car. While it can block noise with it's solid parts, openings (like the muffler's intake and exhauust) transmit the noise out of the case. The fact most of these openings in a case are vents with fans in them means the fan noise is usually the biggest source of sound coming from the system.


no "fart cans" for the pc? but but i wanted my pc to sound ridiculous with no real increase in power output.... sigh...


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> no "fart cans" for the pc? but but i wanted my pc to sound ridiculous with no real increase in power output.... sigh...


Oh, they make CLCs for that.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> no "fart cans" for the pc? but but i wanted my pc to sound ridiculous with no real increase in power output.... sigh...


You could put cards in the fans like we did as kids on our bicycles, but I like this bottle bike better. Skip into aobut 1:45




Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Oh, they make CLCs for that.


plastic pop bottle works better (see link above. Pure ghetto, sounds much better and is much cheaper than a CLC.


----------



## hht92

Hi guys can i use Thermalright TY-147A in front and at the bottom on my Enthoo Pro ?


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hht92*
> 
> Hi guys can i use Thermalright TY-147A in front and at the bottom on my Enthoo Pro ?


Not with ease. Thermalright should be releasing a TY147A Sq in very near future. Wait for it .. or just use the PH-F140SP fans. They are good too.If you really must sue TY-147A. I could try fitting them in my Luxe. Same basic case with different front and top covers.


----------



## hht92

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Not with ease. Thermalright should be releasing a TY147A Sq in very near future. Wait for it .. or just use the PH-F140SP fans. They are good too.If you really must sue TY-147A. I could try fitting them in my Luxe. Same basic case with different front and top covers.


TY147A goes for 12 euros the other Phanteks fans goes for 16+ euros. I have max budget 12 euros per fan (i need 3), i want to improve my air in my case, front 200mm is no good, also i will remove the psu cover.
Any other fan recommendation at 12 euros price range ?

I am thinking something like this

Front: 2x140mm intake
Top: 200mm exhaust
Rear: 140mm exhaust
Bottom: 140mm intake


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hht92*
> 
> TY147A goes for 12 euros the other Phanteks fans goes for 16+ euros. I have max budget 12 euros per fan (i need 3), i want to improve my air in my case, front 200mm is no good, also i will remove the psu cover.
> Any other fan recommendation at 12 euros price range ?
> 
> I am thinking something like this
> 
> Front: 2x140mm intake
> Top: 200mm exhaust
> Rear: 140mm exhaust
> Bottom: 140mm intake


Get the TY-147A.

They fit, but it is tight. I did not put the top and botto screws in to avoid scratching the paint. Ideally the cases' top and bottom fan mount slots need to be slightly longer. A couple millimeter would make a big difference. The first fans I grabbed were a TY-147A and a TY-140 Black (from Macho Direct cooler)l. Same fans, different colors. Probably should have used TY-143 fans. The rholes would have shown up better int the red fan housing.


----------



## hht92

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Get the TY-147A.
> 
> They fit, but it is tight. I did not put the top and botto screws in to avoid scratching the paint. Ideally the cases' top and bottom fan mount slots need to be slightly longer. A couple millimeter would make a big difference. The first fans I grabbed were a TY-147A and a TY-140 Black (from Macho Direct cooler)l. Same fans, different colors. Probably should have used TY-143 fans. The rholes would have shown up better int the red fan housing.


Thank you my friend for trying it.









+rep


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hht92*
> 
> Thank you my friend for trying it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> +rep


No problem. I suggest a real PWM fan hub or splitter like the Gelid 5-way with PSU power. The Gelid 5-way is good becasue it has long leads. T-147A are only about 30cm .. which is plenty for a cooler fan, but kinda short when used in some cases. The Phanteks PWM fan hub is not for PWM fans. I know it sounds crazy, but it's a PWM controlled fan hub for 3-pin fans. Phanteks FUBAR'ed naming it a 'PWM Fan Hub'.
Gelid 5-way splitter has long leads so helps


----------



## hht92

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> No problem. I suggest a real PWM fan hub or splitter like the Gelid 5-way with PSU power. The Gelid 5-way is good becasue it has long leads. T-147A are only about 30cm .. which is plenty for a cooler fan, but kinda short when used in some cases. The Phanteks PWM fan hub is not for PWM fans. I know it sounds crazy, but it's a PWM controlled fan hub for 3-pin fans. Phanteks FUBAR'ed naming it a 'PWM Fan Hub'.
> Gelid 5-way splitter has long leads so helps


Nice, thanks for the suggestion.


----------



## PSILVA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> No problem. I suggest a real PWM fan hub or splitter like the Gelid 5-way with PSU power. The Gelid 5-way is good becasue it has long leads. T-147A are only about 30cm .. which is plenty for a cooler fan, but kinda short when used in some cases. The Phanteks PWM fan hub is not for PWM fans. I know it sounds crazy, but it's a PWM controlled fan hub for 3-pin fans. Phanteks FUBAR'ed naming it a 'PWM Fan Hub'.
> Gelid 5-way splitter has long leads so helps


Doyll the optional Phanteks PWM FAN HUB is a real pwn fan controler?


----------



## owcraftsman

The Phanteks PWM controlled fan hub takes the PWM signal from the host motherboard via a connection to it and coverts that to a variable voltage which controls the speed of voltage controlled 3 pin fans connected to the hub. The conversion is similar to what you would get from a pwm fan connected to a motherboard true pwm header or true pwm splitter and is controllable through bios the same way where curves can address any inequities between true pwn and voltage controlled. It is however not as accurate or as well defined as true pwm. The hub should actually be considered a pwm to 3pin fan converter but the naming has caused confusion with many who have visited this thread for insight. A simple search of the thread would reveal that. Considering the cost differential between 3 pin and pwm fans I for one applaud Phanteks for it's unique qualities and use it with great success in all my Phanteks builds in lieu of more expensive alternatives.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PSILVA*
> 
> Doyll the optional Phanteks PWM FAN HUB is a real pwn fan controler?


I think " _The Phanteks PWM fan hub is not for PWM fans. I know it sounds crazy, but it's a PWM controlled fan hub for 3-pin fans. Phanteks FUBAR'ed naming it a 'PWM Fan Hub'_." was easy to understand.







The 'Phanteks PWM Hub' is not a PWM hub.

I say again "Phanteks PWM Hub is not a PWM hub. It is a PWM _controlled_ hub for 3-piin variable voltage fans.

Like owcraftsman said above, the miss-naming has caused much confusion.


----------



## seanbarkley

Hey guys,

I've just bought the Evolv ATX and the fan hub is really cool but: is there any software to set profiles for those fans connected to the hub? I'm using BIOS Q-Fan to control them, but it's a pain in the arse to have to go to the bios just to change fans. What I want to get is just a software to get 'regular' and 'turbo' (for gaming) fan profiles.

I've tried with SpeedFan, but doesn't recognize the fans, and Fan Xpert, but it doesn't recognize my H100i fan (3 pin), and don't like to have to download the rest of the software (AI Suite) just to get the fan controller...

Any ideas?


----------



## shamoke

I just completed an order for a Luxe, and am incredibly excited to utilize it.

I was wondering what fan configurations you guys have gone with, in terms of AF and SP fans. I was thinking of putting two SPs in the front, an AF in the back, and SPs on top with an AIO radiator that I'm planning on getting as well.

Are there any tips/tricks you guys have for some basic airflow? This would be my first time I'm really putting a lot of effort into this


----------



## seanbarkley

SPs in the front? I've put 3x120 cm AF in the front, 1x140 cm in the rear and 2x120 SP in the radiator.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seanbarkley*
> 
> Hey guys,
> 
> I've just bought the Evolv ATX and the fan hub is really cool but: is there any software to set profiles for those fans connected to the hub? I'm using BIOS Q-Fan to control them, but it's a pain in the arse to have to go to the bios just to change fans. What I want to get is just a software to get 'regular' and 'turbo' (for gaming) fan profiles.
> 
> I've tried with SpeedFan, but doesn't recognize the fans, and Fan Xpert, but it doesn't recognize my H100i fan (3 pin), and don't like to have to download the rest of the software (AI Suite) just to get the fan controller...
> 
> Any ideas?


Move the included PH-F140SP fans to the front as intake, and a 3rd intake in bottom Either shelve the PH-F200SP or use it as a top exhaust. Mine is on the shelf.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shamoke*
> 
> I just completed an order for a Luxe, and am incredibly excited to utilize it.
> 
> I was wondering what fan configurations you guys have gone with, in terms of AF and SP fans. I was thinking of putting two SPs in the front, an AF in the back, and SPs on top with an AIO radiator that I'm planning on getting as well.
> 
> Are there any tips/tricks you guys have for some basic airflow? This would be my first time I'm really putting a lot of effort into this


Ummm....why do you want to downgrade the fans? The included F140SP are very good fans.....quite a bit better in terms of noise/airflow than anything made by Corsair.. Most have found that swapping out the front 200mm to two good 140mm (F140SP, be quiet SW2, Noctua NF-A14, Cougar Vortex and the like) is the best solution, as it provides better airflow and less noise. Changing the the exhaust is an exercise in spending, as you are unlikely to find a 140mm that is discernibly better in that application at any cost.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seanbarkley*
> 
> Hey guys,
> 
> I've just bought the Evolv ATX and the fan hub is really cool but: is there any software to set profiles for those fans connected to the hub? I'm using BIOS Q-Fan to control them, but it's a pain in the arse to have to go to the bios just to change fans. What I want to get is just a software to get 'regular' and 'turbo' (for gaming) fan profiles.
> 
> I've tried with SpeedFan, but doesn't recognize the fans, and Fan Xpert, but it doesn't recognize my H100i fan (3 pin), and don't like to have to download the rest of the software (AI Suite) just to get the fan controller...
> 
> Any ideas?


Did you run fan tuning with Fan Xpert? This typically needs to be done to get the software functioning correctly with the hub. And I am assuming that you have the hub plugged into a header that is absolutely PWM controlled such as the CPU header?

Are your H100i fans plugged into the H100i? If so, the only software that _might_ recognize them is Corsair Link.


----------



## Triniboi82

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seanbarkley*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Hey guys,
> 
> I've just bought the Evolv ATX and the fan hub is really cool but: is there any software to set profiles for those fans connected to the hub? I'm using BIOS Q-Fan to control them, but it's a pain in the arse to have to go to the bios just to change fans. What I want to get is just a software to get 'regular' and 'turbo' (for gaming) fan profiles.
> 
> I've tried with SpeedFan, but doesn't recognize the fans, and Fan Xpert, but it doesn't recognize my H100i fan (3 pin), and don't like to have to download the rest of the software (AI Suite) just to get the fan controller...
> 
> Any ideas?


Because of your same issue I ended up mounting an old fan controller from my previous build as I prefer having full manual control for my rad fans. Only my exhaust fan is plugged into the hub and I'm fine with the profile set in the bios.

I've used fan xpert before as suggested and it should work fine.


----------



## shamoke

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Ummm....why do you want to downgrade the fans? The included F140SP are very good fans.....quite a bit better in terms of noise/airflow than anything made by Corsair.. Most have found that swapping out the front 200mm to two good 140mm (F140SP, be quiet SW2, Noctua NF-A14, Cougar Vortex and the like) is the best solution, as it provides better airflow and less noise. Changing the the exhaust is an exercise in spending, as you are unlikely to find a 140mm that is discernibly better in that application at any cost.


It's not that I'm looking to downgrade. I'm just trying to go with an all red LED setup, including the fans. I really don't want to sacrifice temperatures though, so I'm fine with keeping the stock fans if they're great.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shamoke*
> 
> It's not that I'm looking to downgrade. I'm just trying to go with an all red LED setup, including the fans. I really don't want to sacrifice temperatures though, so I'm fine with keeping the stock fans if they're great.


The F140SP is available with red LED. Cheaper and better than Corsair fans.


----------



## mistergopez

is anyone running a MSI 390 in the evolv ITX case? It's pretty thick at 51mm maybe 2.5 slot but not quite
I want to get the evolv but hope it fits correctly


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mistergopez*
> 
> is anyone running a MSI 390 in the evolv ITX case? It's pretty thick at 51mm maybe 2.5 slot but not quite
> I want to get the evolv but hope it fits correctly


I found this post on Reddit

__
https://www.reddit.com/r/3vxpjh/troubleshooting_phanteks_evolv_itx_with_msi_390/
.

Looks like the fan shroud will hit the psu cover.


----------



## mistergopez

I found this image. Not sure if its hitting it or not


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mistergopez*
> 
> I found this image. Not sure if its hitting it or not


Even if it isn't hitting, it will definitely be air starved.


----------



## rck1984

I'm very interested in a Phanteks Evolv ATX and pondering making the jump from my Corsair Carbide 540.

The only thing that keeps me from ordering is that the case is so short in height. Everything looks so cramped in there, at least to me. When i look at a top mounted radiator with fans attached, it looks like the radiator gets around half way of the RAM strips. Is it really that cramped/short or do pictures actually make it look worse?


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rck1984*
> 
> I'm very interested in a Phanteks Evolv ATX and pondering making the jump from my Corsair Carbide 540.
> 
> The only thing that keeps me from ordering is that the case is so short in height. Everything looks so cramped in there, at least to me. When i look at a top mounted radiator with fans attached, it looks like the radiator gets around half way of the RAM strips. Is it really that cramped/short or do pictures actually make it look worse?


Well the Evolv is 19.5" tall, for comparison the NZXT 440 it only 18.11" and the Enthoo Pro is 21.06". So really not all that short.


----------



## Strider49

Hi,

I have a EK Predator 360 with six Vardar F4-120ER fans in push/pull ready to be installed in my Enthoo Primo. These fans and the pump run off a hub, which is then connected to a PWM header on the motherboard (in my case, I have an ASUS Maximus VI Hero, so the only viable options are CPU_FAN and CPU_OPT, which is a clone of the latter). The fans have an extended PWM range and go as low as 25%. On the other hand, I'm told that the cooler shouldn't be run below 30-35%, because that's what the pump needs to be fed to turn on.

On one of those two PWM headers I connect the Phanteks fan hub, with five PH-F140SPs. Knowing these facts, I want to ask you how low in duty cycle and fan speed the PH-F140SPs can go (because I don't want to be in a situation where these fans won't have enough juice to run) and which of these two sets of fans I should connect to the main header, CPU_FAN, if that makes any difference.

Also, the Q-FAN control in my Mobo is very limited: I can't go below 40% duty cycle, and it doesn't allow me to make a "three step" fan profile as I wish. Any good software that you recommend that I use?


----------



## Cozmo85

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Strider49*
> 
> Hi,
> 
> I have a EK Predator 360 with six Vardar F4-120ER fans in push/pull ready to be installed in my Enthoo Primo. These fans and the pump run off a hub, which is then connected to a PWM header on the motherboard (in my case, I have an ASUS Maximus VI Hero, so the only viable options are CPU_FAN and CPU_OPT, which is a clone of the latter). The fans have an extended PWM range and go as low as 25%. On the other hand, I'm told that the cooler shouldn't be run below 30-35%, because that's what the pump needs to be fed to turn on.
> 
> On one of those two PWM headers I connect the Phanteks fan hub, with five PH-F140SPs. Knowing these facts, I want to ask you how low in duty cycle and fan speed the PH-F140SPs can go (because I don't want to be in a situation where these fans won't have enough juice to run) and which of these two sets of fans I should connect to the main header, CPU_FAN, if that makes any difference.
> 
> Also, the Q-FAN control in my Mobo is very limited: I can't go below 40% duty cycle, and it doesn't allow me to make a "three step" fan profile as I wish. Any good software that you recommend that I use?


Using a NZXT Grid+ V2 i could get the PH-F140XPs down to 450rpm running on DC.


----------



## michael-ocn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rck1984*
> 
> I'm very interested in a Phanteks Evolv ATX and pondering making the jump from my Corsair Carbide 540.
> 
> The only thing that keeps me from ordering is that the case is so short in height. Everything looks so cramped in there, at least to me. When i look at a top mounted radiator with fans attached, it looks like the radiator gets around half way of the RAM strips. Is it really that cramped/short or do pictures actually make it look worse?


I really like that air 540 form factor, I wish they made an all metal variant of that case.

The evolv atx does not have the abundance of vertical clearance above the top edge of the mobo that the air 540 has. Definitely not as easy to getting at the ram or the memok button compared to the air 540. I haven't tried to remove/reseat memory sticks since putting the rad in place. Idk, I might have to slide the radiator tray out some to give me room to do that.


----------



## SLK




----------



## seanbarkley

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Did you run fan tuning with Fan Xpert? This typically needs to be done to get the software functioning correctly with the hub. And I am assuming that you have the hub plugged into a header that is absolutely PWM controlled such as the CPU header?
> 
> Are your H100i fans plugged into the H100i? If so, the only software that _might_ recognize them is Corsair Link.


Hey thanks for ur answer! I've seen that every fan header in the mobo is PWM (Asus Maximus VIII Formula), so that isn't the issue; Fan Xpert auto tuning recognizes perfectly the fan hub, the problem is it doesn't recognize my CPU fan (H100i) since it has a 3 pin connection. This, and the fact that the Fan Xpert comes with a lot of other software that I don't use is what made me stick with BIOS Q-Fan controller (which recognizes perfectly my CPU fan).

I've tried with SpeedFan but it seems it struggles with latest hardware (doesn't identify any fan) so I'm running out of ideas.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Triniboi82*
> 
> Because of your same issue I ended up mounting an old fan controller from my previous build as I prefer having full manual control for my rad fans. Only my exhaust fan is plugged into the hub and I'm fine with the profile set in the bios.
> 
> I've used fan xpert before as suggested and it should work fine.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


LOL, I had that Bitfenix Recon in my prevous case too!









I just wanted to know if there were some way to do it via software (Phoebetria worked great, but I believe you need the Recon to use that program) before putting the fan controller into the case.


----------



## seanbarkley

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rck1984*
> 
> I'm very interested in a Phanteks Evolv ATX and pondering making the jump from my Corsair Carbide 540.
> 
> The only thing that keeps me from ordering is that the case is so short in height. Everything looks so cramped in there, at least to me. When i look at a top mounted radiator with fans attached, it looks like the radiator gets around half way of the RAM strips. Is it really that cramped/short or do pictures actually make it look worse?


Hey I have the case with a radiator (Corsair H100i) with fans attached at the top of the case and by no means it gets around halfway of the RAM sticks. In fact I can tell you that if you look at the case facing towards it you can see the whole RAM sticks and the radiator+fans combo starts right after it.

Maybe what you have seen is builds with broader radiators or push/pull configurations.


----------



## stin0

A big shout-out to the Phanteks 'RMA' support!
I have a Phanteks Enthoo Luxe case and my cat managed to destroy one of the clips that holds the dustfilter on top in place.
I contacted Phanteks and they sent me a new clip for free, didn't even have to pay the shipping costs eventhough i insisted on doing so


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seanbarkley*
> 
> Hey thanks for ur answer! I've seen that every fan header in the mobo is PWM (Asus Maximus VIII Formula), so that isn't the issue; Fan Xpert auto tuning recognizes perfectly the fan hub, the problem is it doesn't recognize my CPU fan (H100i) since it has a 3 pin connection. This, and the fact that the Fan Xpert comes with a lot of other software that I don't use is what made me stick with BIOS Q-Fan controller (which recognizes perfectly my CPU fan).
> 
> I've tried with SpeedFan but it seems it struggles with latest hardware (doesn't identify any fan) so I'm running out of ideas.
> LOL, I had that Bitfenix Recon in my prevous case too!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I just wanted to know if there were some way to do it via software (Phoebetria worked great, but I believe you need the Recon to use that program) before putting the fan controller into the case.


Actually, all of the headers are _capable_ of PWM, but all of the chassis fan headers are set to DC by default. Many MB have 4-pin headers with no PWM cpabilities, and ASUS even lists PWM capab ilities for headers that don't have PWM. So, I was just saying to be sure about it.

You never answered the question of *where* the H100i fans are plugged in. If they are plugged into the H100i pump, and not the MB, nothing aside from Corsair Link can possibly read their speed.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stin0*
> 
> A big shout-out to the Phanteks 'RMA' support!
> I have a Phanteks Enthoo Luxe case and my cat managed to destroy one of the clips that holds the dustfilter on top in place.
> I contacted Phanteks and they sent me a new clip for free, didn't even have to pay the shipping costs eventhough i insisted on doing so


Good to hear they got you sorted.








Phanteks is growing rapidly and as a result like many others has had a few few problems. Customer support has had a few little problems where some requests for help fell through the proverbial cracks, but over all they have done a very good job. The realized they had a problem and fixed it.









I'm seen much better support this year already, and expect to see it continue.


----------



## stin0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Good to hear they got you sorted.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Phanteks is growing rapidly and as a result like many others has had a few few problems. Customer support has had a few little problems where some requests for help fell through the proverbial cracks, but over all they have done a very good job. The realized they had a problem and fixed it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm seen much better support this year already, and expect to see it continue.


Yeah big kudos for Phanteks for this one. It took some time to send the spare part, but that's all right.
It wasn't that urgent anyway, just purely esthetic as the dustfilter was now always loose and angled.

Phanteks and EVGA are now my favorite companies concerning customer support, I'm a lifetime fan of both








Oh and Corsair does a pretty damn good job as well.


----------



## seanbarkley

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Actually, all of the headers are _capable_ of PWM, but all of the chassis fan headers are set to DC by default. Many MB have 4-pin headers with no PWM cpabilities, and ASUS even lists PWM capab ilities for headers that don't have PWM. So, I was just saying to be sure about it.
> 
> You never answered the question of *where* the H100i fans are plugged in. If they are plugged into the H100i pump, and not the MB, nothing aside from Corsair Link can possibly read their speed.


Sorry I have them connected to the hub too.

I'll try downloading Open Hardware Monitor when I arrive home and see if I can control fans with that software. As long as I can switch my fans from 30% to 70% while gaming I'll be happy!

I'll keep u guys updated.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stin0*
> 
> Yeah big kudos for Phanteks for this one. It took some time to send the spare part, but that's all right.
> It wasn't that urgent anyway, just purely esthetic as the dustfilter was now always loose and angled.
> 
> Phanteks and EVGA are now my favorite companies concerning customer support, I'm a lifetime fan of both
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh and Corsair does a pretty damn good job as well.


That last one is very miss and hit .. usually more miss than hit. Their warranty states
Quote:


> Limitation of Liability
> 
> CORSAIR SHALL NOT BE LIABLE FOR ANY SPECIAL, INCIDENTAL, INDIRECT, OR CONSEQUENTIAL DAMAGES WHATSOEVER, INCLUDING BUT NOT LIMITED TO LOSS OF PROFITS, REVENUE, OR DATA (WHETHER DIRECT OR INDIRECT) OR COMMERCIAL LOSS FOR BREACH OF ANY EXPRESS OR IMPLIED WARRANTY ON YOUR PRODUCT EVEN IF CORSAIR HAS BEEN ADVISED PREVIOUSLY OF THE POSSIBILITY OF SUCH DAMAGES. Some local laws do not allow the exclusion or limitation of special, indirect, incidental or consequential damages, so this limitation or exclusion may not apply in your jurisdiction.


http://www.corsair.com/en-gb/support/warranty
10th paragraph.
Notice they quite yelling to say some laws make them do more than their warranty says they will. Those same same laws require them to to say that.









Basically what they said is. CORSAIR SHALL NOT BE LIABLE FOR ANY SPECIAL, INCIDENTAL, INDIRECT, OR CONSEQUENTIAL DAMAGES WHATSOEVER .. unless the law says they are liable.

Sorry, but their warranty statement tells me very clearly they think they have no responsibility to their customers, so how can the have good 'customer support? Oh! Yeah! I forgot .. LAWS MAKE THEM RESPONSIBLE FOR THEIR PRODUCTS!! Let's not confuse laws making someone be good with someone being good because it's what they want to be.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seanbarkley*
> 
> Sorry I have them connected to the hub too.
> 
> I'll try downloading Open Hardware Monitor when I arrive home and see if I can control fans with that software. As long as I can switch my fans from 30% to 70% while gaming I'll be happy!
> 
> I'll keep u guys updated.


The hub can only report the speed of the fan plugged into header #1. That is the case with almost every hub made.


----------



## Avant Garde

So many beautiful Phanteks builds here, almost all of them with custom loops. Not so many pics with Evolv ATX builds sadly. I'm looking forward to see some user experiences with that case in terms AIO, airflow, temps and noise. As I recall correctly, Dimitri from Hardwarecanucks said that is blocking fair amount of noise which is great.


----------



## brian-phanteks

Hello All. Im back. I just wanted to clear up any questions you all might have about our newest adapter. At the moment current compatible cases are the Enthoo Luxe, Enthoo MiniXL, Enthoo MiniXL DS, Eclipse P400, and Eclipse P400S. The motherboards that will support an external RGB LED strip and both from Asus. They are the Maximus VIII Formula and Maximus VIII Hero Alpha. Hopefully our community will see more manufacturers follow this trend and more motherboards will be able to add the RGB header for more compatibility.
As always if you have any questions about this or any other product, feel free to call me out on the thread, or send a PM.

Brian


----------



## evilgrin

Howabout the VIII Extreme?


----------



## brian-phanteks

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *evilgrin*
> 
> Howabout the VIII Extreme?


The VIII Extreme does not have an RGB header as an output.


----------



## evilgrin

LOL, I was deciding between the Exreme & Formula, but really don't plan do do much with lighting anyways. Anyways its a fantastic case.


----------



## Jiryama

Now that the eclipse series has been released can I assume that Phanteks is working on the Project 916 now?









Just got the TC14PE cooler in the mail yesterday for my soon to be server pc, I must say it is a mighty fine looking cooler! Waiting to get the 916 to run a dual system.


----------



## seanbarkley

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> The hub can only report the speed of the fan plugged into header #1. That is the case with almost every hub made.


Yep, I know, but I just want to set all the case fans at a certain percentage at the same time.

BTW, I finally was able to get it vía SpeedFan, and made case fans dependant of GPU temperature. It's funny because the only way I can make SpeedFan recognize my fans is by opening HWinfo64 previously (don't ask me why) LOL, otherwise it doesn't work.


----------



## flynna3162581

i've the evolv itx .... can i swap out the white LED in the front ?? easier then soldering a new one in??


----------



## KaffieneKing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *flynna3162581*
> 
> i've the evolv itx .... can i swap out the white LED in the front ?? easier then soldering a new one in??


Did it not come with swappable LEDs? The mATX version does


----------



## flynna3162581

nope it dont... think thats one way of cutting cost... as well as plastic frontage


----------



## dainfamous

Are the filtered areas with no fans installed a detriment to air flow inside the case? A general question but I was thinking about purchasing an Enthoo Pro M and have no plans on installing anything at the top of the case. Would be essentially open with just the magnetic filter. Was wondering if that may effect the air flow.

Thanks


----------



## bartimaeus555

My build in the Evolv ATX.


----------



## hht92

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> No problem. I suggest a real PWM fan hub or splitter like the Gelid 5-way with PSU power. The Gelid 5-way is good becasue it has long leads. T-147A are only about 30cm .. which is plenty for a cooler fan, but kinda short when used in some cases. The Phanteks PWM fan hub is not for PWM fans. I know it sounds crazy, but it's a PWM controlled fan hub for 3-pin fans. Phanteks FUBAR'ed naming it a 'PWM Fan Hub'.
> Gelid 5-way splitter has long leads so helps


Hey doyll can i use the Gelid 5-way to connect my cooler fans also with y splitter fan (except the 3 Thermalright) so i can have 5 fans and all be controlled by CPU Fan header ? Cause gigabyte have messy fan control. (I cant find other PWM hubs like Swiftech or SilverStone)

Something like this


----------



## KaffieneKing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hht92*
> 
> Hey doyll can i use the Gelid 5-way to connect my cooler fans also with y splitter fan (except the 3 Thermalright) so i can have 5 fans and all be controlled by CPU Fan header ? Cause gigabyte have messy fan control. (I cant find other PWM hubs like Swiftech or SilverStone)
> 
> Something like this


You could but if you don't already have them akasa have a 5 way splitter


----------



## hht92

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaffieneKing*
> 
> You could but if you don't already have them akasa have a 5 way splitter


No i don't have them yet, nice to hear there is 5 way splitter, i will try to find it. Thanks


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hht92*
> 
> No i don't have them yet, nice to hear there is 5 way splitter, i will try to find it. Thanks


Be careful which Akasa PWM splitters if you get them. The ones I've used had all 5 wires going into one plug pin and 2 wires into each of the fan sockets. Combining this with the braided cable with heatshrink ends the only place for wires to flex was right at the pin and they quickly started to stress fatigue and were randomly breaking off almost as soon as I finish the build .. just from doing cable management. The Akasa's are a snake pit compared to the clean design of Gelid.

Get two of the Gelid and use them with one plugged into other. That way you have some extra PWM connectors if ever needed.








Akasa



Gelid


----------



## hht92

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Be careful which Akasa PWM splitters if you get them. The ones I've used had all 5 wires going into one plug pin and 2 wires into each of the fan sockets. Combining this with the braided cable with heatshrink ends the only place for wires to flex was right at the pin and they quickly started to stress fatigue and were randomly breaking off almost as soon as I finish the build .. just from doing cable management. The Akasa's are a snake pit compared to the clean design of Gelid.


Hmmm looks like then Gelid it is (found them around 7 euros on ebay).

Thanks guys.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hht92*
> 
> Hmmm looks like then Gelid it is (found them around 7 euros on ebay).
> 
> Thanks guys.


I edited my post.








Get two, then you can add fans if you want.


----------



## hht92

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> I edited my post.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Get two, then you can add fans if you want.


Ok i will get 2 then (i didn't even know i can put the one into the other







)

I suppose i have to connect 2 molex in the psu not only the 1 ?


----------



## THUMPer1

Does anyone think a Lian Li fan moving to the Evolv ATX will be satisfied?


----------



## bartimaeus555

Ive built in the Evolv ATX.

I honestly think it's one of the best cases ever made.


----------



## flynna3162581

PHANTEKS builder


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brian-phanteks*
> 
> Hello All. Im back. I just wanted to clear up any questions you all might have about our newest adapter. At the moment current compatible cases are the Enthoo Luxe, Enthoo MiniXL, Enthoo MiniXL DS, Eclipse P400, and Eclipse P400S. The motherboards that will support an external RGB LED strip and both from Asus. They are the Maximus VIII Formula and Maximus VIII Hero Alpha. Hopefully our community will see more manufacturers follow this trend and more motherboards will be able to add the RGB header for more compatibility.
> As always if you have any questions about this or any other product, feel free to call me out on the thread, or send a PM.
> 
> Brian


got an unreleated question Brian. are you guys going to be taking suggestions/feedback on the case designs going forward? there are some things that keep finding their way into and out of you guys' designs which I find curious at the least.


----------



## THUMPer1

I probably won't be water cooling. Is the front panel restrictive to airflow?


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hht92*
> 
> Ok i will get 2 then (i didn't even know i can put the one into the other
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )
> 
> I suppose i have to connect 2 molex in the psu not only the 1 ?


Yes, two molexs plugged to PSU and fan lead plugged into any one of the fan sockets.


----------



## brian-phanteks

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PureBlackFire*
> 
> got an unreleated question Brian. are you guys going to be taking suggestions/feedback on the case designs going forward? there are some things that keep finding their way into and out of you guys' designs which I find curious at the least.


You can send me any questions or concerns about our products an I will pass the information along to the design team.


----------



## Avant Garde

Does Evolv ATX supports Swiftech H320 X2 Prestige on top ?


----------



## michael-ocn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bartimaeus555*
> 
> My build in the Evolv ATX.


wow, that's an amazing build!


----------



## bartimaeus555

Thanks michael-ocn.


----------



## Cozmo85

The Evolv ATX is great but i had to change cases for watercooling. The top is just too restrictive.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cozmo85*
> 
> The Evolv ATX is great but i had to change cases for watercooling. The top is just too restrictive.


What was the issue you had? There are many Evolv ATX being liquid cooled without a problem, mine included. If you isolate the front and back of any top mounted rad it is a complete non-issue, and the process only takes a few minutes to do.


----------



## bartimaeus555

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cozmo85*
> 
> The Evolv ATX is great but i had to change cases for watercooling. The top is just too restrictive.


The only problem I had was the top rad would conflict with RAM blocks once you installed fans, but a quick mod fixed that issue.


----------



## Avant Garde

Can you guys post more about all those mods ? I keep hearing about all those mods but don't really know what or how to do that.









U can set your AIO on top with pull configuration? Or is it better in front?


----------



## bartimaeus555

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Avant Garde*
> 
> Can you guys post more about all those mods ? I keep hearing about all those mods but don't really know what or how to do that.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> U can set your AIO on top with pull configuration? Or is it better in front?


I'll link some pictures to help explain.

When you take the roof of the case off, you're met with the frame of the case. By cutting the 4 vertical pieces of the top frame, you can then fit fans above the radiator bracket.


----------



## Faster_is_better

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bartimaeus555*
> 
> My build in the Evolv ATX.


That is seriously good looking. I would say professional builder status achieved








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *flynna3162581*
> 
> 
> PHANTEKS builder


Nice color matching


----------



## Avant Garde

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bartimaeus555*
> 
> I'll link some pictures to help explain.
> 
> When you take the roof of the case off, you're met with the frame of the case. By cutting the 4 vertical pieces of the top frame, you can then fit fans above the radiator bracket.


Thanks! You had any problems closing that top panel? Have you considered mounting AIO in front of the case?


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bartimaeus555*
> 
> My build in the Evolv ATX.


Beautifully done!








Love the attention to detail. All the tubing and cable lines running true and straight.
About how many bottles of Pepto-Bismol did you use?















Sorry.







The devil on my shoulder made me say that.


----------



## bartimaeus555

No, because my entire PC is cooled by a custom waterloop.


----------



## Avant Garde

Yeah I just saw that one LOL. Nice work though. Real enthusiast and clean build.


----------



## bartimaeus555

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Beautifully done!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Love the attention to detail. All the tubing and cable lines running true and straight.
> About how many bottles of Pepto-Bismol did you use?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The devil on my shoulder made me say that.


About 8.47 bottles.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bartimaeus555*
> 
> About 8.47 bottles.


It really is a very well built system, even if I don't like the pink.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bartimaeus555*
> 
> I'll link some pictures to help explain.
> 
> When you take the roof of the case off, you're met with the frame of the case. By cutting the 4 vertical pieces of the top frame, you can then fit fans above the radiator bracket.
> 
> You cut out the horizontal cross braces. Now I understand. Neat trick!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> +rep for that info.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Avant Garde*
> 
> Thanks! You had any problems closing that top panel? Have you considered mounting AIO in front of the case?


I would take a wild guess and say that looking at what he has, he probably hasn't considered mounting an AiO _anywhere_ in that case.


----------



## bartimaeus555

Absolutely not.


----------



## PSILVA

I have a problem, i connect the fan hub to the cpu_optfan but my fan cases run at full speed, in bios the cpu-fan is set to pwm Mode silent profile, my phantek cooler run at 500rpm but the fans cases at 1250rpm!


----------



## michael-ocn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PSILVA*
> 
> I have a problem, i connect the fan hub to the cpu_optfan but my fan cases run at full speed, in bios the cpu-fan is set to pwm Mode silent profile, my phantek cooler run at 500rpm but the fans cases at 1250rpm!


you have to do some troubleshooting

either the cpu_optfan header isn't putting out the desired signal, or the hub isn't reading it properly. if you put the cooler on the cpu_optfan header and the hub on the cpu_fan header you should be able to tell since you know that cpu_fan and the cooler both work properly


----------



## Gil80

Hi all..

So I'm using the Primo Enthoo case.
I was wondering what's the best way to connect all my LED lighting to the built-in switch that shuts off the stock LED of the case.

2nd question: Is there a creative way to mount 3.5" HDD not in the HDD cages and not in the 5.25" bays?

Appreciate your help!


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *michael-ocn*
> 
> you have to do some troubleshooting
> 
> either the cpu_optfan header isn't putting out the desired signal, or the hub isn't reading it properly. if you put the cooler on the cpu_optfan header and the hub on the cpu_fan header you should be able to tell since you know that cpu_fan and the cooler both work properly


While the problem may be the CPU_opt header is not PWM and switching the cooler fan and Phanteks PWM controlled hub plugs may solve the problem, we do not know the CPU-_opt header is in fact PWM just because it controls the PWM cooler fan. This is because if it is variable voltage and not PWM it will still control the speed of the cooler fan.


----------



## clarifiante

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> While the problem may be the CPU_opt header is not PWM and switching the cooler fan and Phanteks PWM controlled hub plugs may solve the problem, we do not know the CPU-_opt header is in fact PWM just because it controls the PWM cooler fan. This is because if it is variable voltage and not PWM it will still control the speed of the cooler fan.


going to hijack his initial qns. i have the phantek pwm splitter hub hooked up to the cpu_opt header. is this an ok setup? right now both my ph-f140sp at top exhaust are connected to the pwm splitter hub and they seem to running fine albeit without any way to control them. i just assume their being regulated as per how my cpu fan is set up.

also im running out of cpu fan headers on my mobo and would like to add a couple more. is it possible to hook up a 4pin pwm fan to the pump_header on my asus viii hero? would it be able to run like a normal 4pin pwm fan?


----------



## THUMPer1

This will probably be over looked. But I'll type it anyway.

I bought the Enthoo Evolv ATX yesterday and started setting it up. Sadly I'm going to have to return it. Every screw I removed had paint from the inside body come with it. So I have bare metal where screws used to be. Every screw I used to install a fan also scratched off the paint. If the inside was aluminum anodized and not painted steel this case would be a winner.
Something else I knew I would not be happy with but thought I could get away with. The rear fan port is honeycombed. this restricts a lot of airflow for the fans and causes more fan noise. I am used to Lian Li so I guess I'll put every thing back in that case.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *THUMPer1*
> 
> This will probably be over looked. But I'll type it anyway.
> 
> I bought the Enthoo Evolv ATX yesterday and started setting it up. Sadly I'm going to have to return it. Every screw I removed had paint from the inside body come with it. So I have bare metal where screws used to be. Every screw I used to install a fan also scratched off the paint. If the inside was aluminum anodized and not painted steel this case would be a winner.
> Something else I knew I would not be happy with but thought I could get away with. The rear fan port is honeycombed. this restricts a lot of airflow for the fans and causes more fan noise. I am used to Lian Li so I guess I'll put every thing back in that case.


Interesting. I didn't run into this at all on the Evolv, but did on the Luxe. I agree with you that aluminum would be preferable, but that would also raise the price of the case dramatically.


----------



## THUMPer1

..............


----------



## PSILVA

cpu_fan does the same, case fans at full speed, so i try conect the fanhub to chassi_fan_3 and set to dc mode, silent profile they run at 900rpm, set manual and the minimum speed is 850rpm, my bios don't let me go under 60% dutycycle so i enable to turn off fans, they start to run when cpu rises to 40º.


----------



## Nemesis429

Trying to decide between the grey or silver... leaning more towards the silver, as I think it will suit better.


----------



## owcraftsman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bartimaeus555*
> 
> My build in the Evolv ATX.


Excellent quality build

I agree with the pro quality comment

Pepto LOL the comments around here are hilarious

I like the pink so much so I could see a couple accent strip right & left perimeter of the SLI bridge to equal out the distribution of color not sure what color that is there now, copper? but matching would be nice.


----------



## bartimaeus555

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *owcraftsman*
> 
> Excellent quality build
> I agree with the pro quality comment
> Pepto LOL the comments around here are hilarious
> I like the pink so much so I could see a couple accent strip right & left perimeter of the SLI bridge to equal out the distribution of color not sure what color that is there now, copper? but matching would be nice.


The sli bridge is actually a mirror pink, it's just the way the light was reflecting. This may help.


----------



## owcraftsman

@ bartimaeus555  Perfect


----------



## michael-ocn

That's definitely the nicest looking evolv atx build i've seen, really impressive work.

@bartimaeus555 How's it working out? With the front and side panels closed and the system cranking at crysis3 sort of load, what do you get for gpu/cpu temps? Are you running front and top as intake or front in + top out or something else?


----------



## bartimaeus555

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *michael-ocn*
> 
> That's definitely the nicest looking evolv atx build i've seen, really impressive work.
> 
> @bartimaeus555 How's it working out? With the front and side panels closed and the system cranking at crysis3 sort of load, what do you get for gpu/cpu temps? Are you running front and top as intake or front in + top out or something else?


With the panels all closed up and running furmark, I seem to top out at 60 degrees, which aren't the best temps, but I'm aiming more for silence than performance. I haven't checked the CPU temps, but when I do I'll let you know.

I run the front rad and the rear fan as intakes, and the top rad as an exhaust.


----------



## bartimaeus555

Seeing as this has gotten a bit of a positive response, I decided to post the rest of the pictures I have. There is also a thread I started here http://www.overclock.net/t/1591816/wabisuke-first-build#post_24911899 if anyone has any questions.


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bartimaeus555*
> 
> Seeing as this has gotten a bit of a positive response, I decided to post the rest of the pictures I have. There is also a thread I started here http://www.overclock.net/t/1591816/wabisuke-first-build#post_24911899 if anyone has any questions.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I'll jump on the bandwagon here and say that is an extremely nice build, very sexy. I would like to know what your components are. That 3 way sli looks sexy as hell.


----------



## bartimaeus555

I'm a bit lazy, so I'll just drop the pcpartpicker list of components https://au.pcpartpicker.com/parts/partlist/

There's also a 3tb hdd and a 512gb ssd that I need to install.


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bartimaeus555*
> 
> I'm a bit lazy, so I'll just drop the pcpartpicker list of components https://au.pcpartpicker.com/parts/partlist/
> 
> There's also a 3tb hdd and a 512gb ssd that I need to install.


Thanks but that link just goes to pcpartpicker, not a particular build. If you click on edit parts list it will give you a link at the upper left.


----------



## bartimaeus555

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rfarmer*
> 
> Thanks but that link just goes to pcpartpicker, not a particular build. If you click on edit parts list it will give you a link at the upper left.


Sorry about that. How's this http://au.pcpartpicker.com/p/T9jH6h


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bartimaeus555*
> 
> Sorry about that. How's this http://au.pcpartpicker.com/p/T9jH6h


Thanks for that. Damn 3 X 980Ti, guess you are 4k ready.


----------



## bartimaeus555

Maybe, but I don't think I'll ever get the chance. I don't plan on buying a 4k monitor soon.


----------



## Gil80

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gil80*
> 
> Hi all..
> 
> So I'm using the Primo Enthoo case.
> I was wondering what's the best way to connect all my LED lighting to the built-in switch that shuts off the stock LED of the case.
> 
> 2nd question: Is there a creative way to mount 3.5" HDD not in the HDD cages and not in the 5.25" bays?
> 
> Appreciate your help!


Anyone


----------



## ciarlatano

There is a molex labeled "LED Strip" coming off of the switch for this. Page 11 of your manual - http://phanteks.com/assets/manuals/PH-ES813P_Western.pdf


----------



## dainfamous

How would one set up the fans for air cooling an EVOLV ATX case? (Especially at the top.)


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dainfamous*
> 
> How would one set up the fans for air cooling an EVOLV ATX case? (Especially at the top.)


Nothing in the top.
2x front intakes and rear exhaust. Pulling air up to top would likely draw heated exhaust from GPU up into CPU intake air heating it up and causing CPU to run hotter. 5th post in "Ways to Better Cooling" link in my sig gives a general explanation of case airflow. 1st post is index, click on topics to see them.


----------



## Avant Garde

What is the best configuration with AIO in Evolv ATX?


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

Xposting from [H]. Not a chassis but my fans came in for my MO-RA3


----------



## michael-ocn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Avant Garde*
> 
> What is the best configuration with AIO in Evolv ATX?


I like how mine's setup, top mounted 280mm rad setup as "intake". I put intake in quotes because really almost all of the air blown downward thru the rad first enters the case thru the two front intake fans. You can see pics in my build log of how i've blocked off gaps in the roof's mounting tray to get the desired airflow shown below. I don't know if its the best, but it works for me.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1573749/build-log-make-believe-build-2015/40#post_24519285


----------



## sav4

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxdarkreap3rxx*
> 
> Xposting from [H]. Not a chassis but my fans came in for my MO-RA3


That's a whole lot of fans there .?


----------



## michael-ocn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sav4*
> 
> That's a whole lot of fans there .?


yes, is that for a custom hovering lounge chair project


----------



## Gil80

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> There is a molex labeled "LED Strip" coming off of the switch for this. Page 11 of your manual - http://phanteks.com/assets/manuals/PH-ES813P_Western.pdf


Thanks mate!

Does it matter how many LED are connected?
and lastly, if I have 6 LED connections, how can all of them be connected to the molex LED Strip?


----------



## sl4ppy

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bartimaeus555*
> 
> Seeing as this has gotten a bit of a positive response, I decided to post the rest of the pictures I have. There is also a thread I started here http://www.overclock.net/t/1591816/wabisuke-first-build#post_24911899 if anyone has any questions.






@bartimaeus555 in that fourth picture it looks like you frosted the side panel window? Am i seeing that correctly?


----------



## bartimaeus555

It's not frosted. The window is tinted, and that combined with the background is probably giving it that effect.


----------



## Avant Garde

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *michael-ocn*
> 
> I like how mine's setup, top mounted 280mm rad setup as "intake". I put intake in quotes because really almost all of the air blown downward thru the rad first enters the case thru the two front intake fans. You can see pics in my build log of how i've blocked off gaps in the roof's mounting tray to get the desired airflow shown below. I don't know if its the best, but it works for me.
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1573749/build-log-make-believe-build-2015/40#post_24519285


Thanks!

I'm looking for various options with this case (Evolv ATX) before my purchase. Going with some CLC, most probably on top of the case and some quality fans like Thermalright TR-TY147A or Be Quiet ones (2 as intake - front, 1 as exhaust - back) that should give me good temps and low noise I suppose.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Avant Garde*
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> I'm looking for various options with this case (Evolv ATX) before my purchase. Going with some CLC, most probably on top of the case and some quality fans like Thermalright TR-TY147A or Be Quiet ones (2 as intake - front, 1 as exhaust - back) that should give me good temps and low noise I suppose.


Rather than spending $150+ on what is going to perform like a $50 air cooler, why don't you take that same $150 and get a Swiftech H240-X2? Far better performance, far lower noise and much better looks than a CLC.


----------



## Avant Garde

Yes, that would be a great idea. Great looking AIO and hopefully a good and quiet performer. I'm also considering Be Quiet Shadow Rock Slim air cooler, it looks fantastic to me, not bulky but I'm a little bit worried about the performance on X99 5820K or Z170 6700K....


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Avant Garde*
> 
> Yes, that would be a great idea. Great looking AIO and *hopefully a good and quiet performer.* I'm also considering Be Quiet Shadow Rock Slim air cooler, it looks fantastic to me, not bulky but I'm a little bit worried about the performance on X99 5820K or Z170 6700K....


That isn't a "hopefully". It is quite literally the best cooling solution you can buy that is not a custom loop.

There is a substantial difference in heat between the 5820K and 6700K, especially when OC. The Shadow Rock Slim cools surprisingly well for it's size, but would have trouble coping with the 5820K with an OC.


----------



## shamoke

I'm looking for ways to push positive airflow in my Luxe. I know some have moved the big fan in the front to the top, then adjusted accordingly, but has anyone tried front and rear intake, with exhaust being only on the top?

My current configuration is an h100i GTX, (push, exhaust), 200mm front intake, and 140mm rear exhaust.


----------



## yamaharacer19

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shamoke*
> 
> I'm looking for ways to push positive airflow in my Luxe. I know some have moved the big fan in the front to the top, then adjusted accordingly, but has anyone tried front and rear intake, with exhaust being only on the top?
> 
> My current configuration is an h100i GTX, (push, exhaust), 200mm front intake, and 140mm rear exhaust.


Do bottom and front as intake. Back and top as exhaust.


----------



## BLAMM0

My setup in a Pro is like this now:
Rear: stock fan - intake
Front: 2x140mm intake
Top: 2x140mm Exhaust


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shamoke*
> 
> I'm looking for ways to push positive airflow in my Luxe. I know some have moved the big fan in the front to the top, then adjusted accordingly, but has anyone tried front and rear intake, with exhaust being only on the top?
> 
> My current configuration is an h100i GTX, (push, exhaust), 200mm front intake, and 140mm rear exhaust.


If you haven't already wasted money on the H100, get a good air cooler and have same or better cooling with much less noise.


----------



## AlDyer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> If you haven't already wasted money on the H100, get a good air cooler and have same or better cooling with much less noise.


The H100i is pretty much the best AIO available and as such certainly can't be called a waste of money. He also probably prefers the looks and size of an AIO. Additionally the H100i is nearly silent on quiet mode and it still cools well enough even on silent. Calling it a waste of money is certainly interesting.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AlDyer*
> 
> The H100i is pretty much the best AIO available and as such certainly can't be called a waste of money. He also probably prefers the looks and size of an AIO. Additionally the H100i is nearly silent on quiet mode and it still cools well enough even on silent. Calling it a waste of money is certainly interesting.


We who have used both, tested both, and reached unbiased opinions (area not CLC cultists) know my statement to be true.







Sorry, but you are preaching 'fake H2O loop' in an air cooled forum.









First off, AIO and CLC are not all the same. All CLC are AIO, but not all AIO are CLC AIO is all pre-assembled and filled coolers. CLC are pre-assembled sealed systems with no provision to replace, expand or even top up coolant levels. When Asetek started CLC, they were LCLC for Low Cost Liquid Cooling .. am much better description of their quality







, but not of their price.









There is only one AIO series that is not CLC. That is the Swiftech H140 X, H220 X, H240 X, H220 X2, H240 X2 & H320 X2 series are only AIO that are 'good' EKWB has their new EK Predator out, but we need some time to see how 'good' it is.









An easy example of CLC quality is to compare thel weight of H100i is about the same of a single 240 radiator used in a custom H2O loop. Really, the H100i radiator, pump, CPU block, fittings, hoses and coolant are similar weight to just a bare radiator with no fittings, fans, hoses or coolant.

While CLC can keep up with top air in cooling, they are radically louder.

If you do a little research you will find out almost all top tier air cooler perform at last as well as H100i at about 1/4 the noise level. Good place to start is http://www.overclock.net/t/1590547/why-you-should-probably-not-buy-a-clc-cooler/0_20

Top air coolers are less than 40dBA while CLCs are mostly 50-65dBA. Every 10dBA increase sounds 2x as loud to our ears. 20dBAi s 4x as loud 30dBA is 8x as loud).. They also cost less, are much more dependable and if something does go wrong with them it is only a fan, which is easily and cheaply replaced and any fan will do until replacement arrives. If H100i has a problem, it is most likely the pump, meaning replacing entire CLC which is not cheap or quick, and system cannot be used at all until cooler is replaced.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AlDyer*
> 
> *The H100i is pretty much the best AIO available and as such certainly can't be called a waste of money.* He also probably prefers the looks and size of an AIO. Additionally the H100i is nearly silent on quiet mode and it still cools well enough even on silent. Calling it a waste of money is certainly interesting.


Not on this planet in the last couple of years......the Swiftech and Ek pieces are head and shoulders above it.....actually, the Neptons are significantly better, also.

As far as it being a waste of money, it depends on how you define it. Looking strictly at numbers:

Cooler A - 73C load temp @ 33dB, $79
Cooler B - 72C load temp @ 58 dB, $119
Cooler C - 66C load temp @ 42 dB, $139

Cooler B certainly looks like the big waste of money there. We could then turn Cooler B into Cooler D by adding Noctua fans (ever so popular with the CLC crowd, because, you know.....lowering CFM and static increases performance....at least on planet CLC) and you wind up with 75C load temp @ 44dB for a whopping $159. Are you seeing the money wasted yet?


----------



## Gil80

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gil80*
> 
> Thanks mate!
> 
> Does it matter how many LED are connected?
> and lastly, if I have 6 LED connections, how can all of them be connected to the molex LED Strip?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> There is a molex labeled "LED Strip" coming off of the switch for this. Page 11 of your manual - http://phanteks.com/assets/manuals/PH-ES813P_Western.pdf


I opened my case and there's no molex cable for LEDs. What I did find is these few small connectors much like the LED Fans supplied with the Entho Primo.
How can I use them to connect to LED's with molex cables?


----------



## Avant Garde

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> That isn't a "hopefully". It is quite literally the best cooling solution you can buy that is not a custom loop.
> 
> There is a substantial difference in heat between the 5820K and 6700K, especially when OC. The Shadow Rock Slim cools surprisingly well for it's size, but would have trouble coping with the 5820K with an OC.


You have very good posts here about various cooling options and coolers and I must ask you something else... I've considered NZXT Kraken X61 also but I would replace the stock fans with some Phanteks PH-F140XP ones, is that a good idea?

Here is the review of X61, they are actually impressed by cooling and noise output of this AIO : http://www.silentpcreview.com/article1408-page7.html


----------



## AlDyer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> We who have used both, tested both, and reached unbiased opinions (area not CLC cultists) know my statement to be true.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry, but you are preaching 'fake H2O loop' in an air cooled forum.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First off, AIO and CLC are not all the same. All CLC are AIO, but not all AIO are CLC AIO is all pre-assembled and filled coolers. CLC are pre-assembled sealed systems with no provision to replace, expand or even top up coolant levels. When Asetek started CLC, they were LCLC for Low Cost Liquid Cooling .. am much better description of their quality
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , but not of their price.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There is only one AIO series that is not CLC. That is the Swiftech H140 X, H220 X, H240 X, H220 X2, H240 X2 & H320 X2 series are only AIO that are 'good' EKWB has their new EK Predator out, but we need some time to see how 'good' it is.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> An easy example of CLC quality is to compare thel weight of H100i is about the same of a single 240 radiator used in a custom H2O loop. Really, the H100i radiator, pump, CPU block, fittings, hoses and coolant are similar weight to just a bare radiator with no fittings, fans, hoses or coolant.
> 
> While CLC can keep up with top air in cooling, they are radically louder.
> 
> If you do a little research you will find out almost all top tier air cooler perform at last as well as H100i at about 1/4 the noise level. Good place to start is http://www.overclock.net/t/1590547/why-you-should-probably-not-buy-a-clc-cooler/0_20
> 
> Top air coolers are less than 40dBA while CLCs are mostly 50-65dBA. Every 10dBA increase sounds 2x as loud to our ears. 20dBAi s 4x as loud 30dBA is 8x as loud).. They also cost less, are much more dependable and if something does go wrong with them it is only a fan, which is easily and cheaply replaced and any fan will do until replacement arrives. If H100i has a problem, it is most likely the pump, meaning replacing entire CLC which is not cheap or quick, and system cannot be used at all until cooler is replaced.


I am merely using Corsair's own terminology when I call it an AIO, which it is. I don't know why you have such a strong reaction and feel the need to pull hairs between AIO and CLC AIO (everyone here should already know it is a CLC AIO). Now I've used regular CLC's, Swiftech's expandable H220 (in fact made a real nice loop out of it), a proper custom water cooling unit and also, of course, most of all air cooling all the way from a 212 Evo to NH-D15. They ALL have their uses and to pass your rather limited and one-dimensional opinion as some sort of be all end all fact is rather unfortunate.

I don't know what this cultist stuff you're talking about is nor do I understand how this is an air-cooled forum? We are talking about a case geared toward watercooling are we not?

Regardless of your off-topic blabber can you please understand that AIO's should't be bought because you want to outperform aircooling? No not at all that would be the waste of money you were talking about, instead consider factors such as ease of installation, conservation of space and improved aesthetics.

With regards to your concerns about the H100i being loud it is only 4db louder than the NH-D15, for example and I can hardly hear it at all on load or on idle.

Regarding the AIO RMA it is just as fast as replacing a regular cooler (by the way, Corsair has great customer support) and it also has a 5 year warranty, which certainly should be adequate.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Avant Garde*
> 
> You have very good posts here about various cooling options and coolers and I must ask you something else... I've considered NZXT Kraken X61 also but I would replace the stock fans with some Phanteks PH-F140XP ones, is that a good idea?
> 
> Here is the review of X61, they are actually impressed by cooling and noise output of this AIO : http://www.silentpcreview.com/article1408-page7.html


Essentially what you are asking is "is it a good idea to spend more on a CLC and fans than I would on a Swiftech, and have far more noise with lower performance?". To me, that does not sound like a good idea.

I reviewed the X61, also. There is nothing special about it. Just another Asetek unit - low efficiency rad, pump that can't flow enough liquid and mediocre block.


----------



## Avant Garde

Well, in Europe is pretty hard to obtain... In Germany that old version H240 is around 300 EUROS, and that price is just crazy.


----------



## AlDyer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Not on this planet in the last couple of years......the Swiftech and Ek pieces are head and shoulders above it.....actually, the Neptons are significantly better, also.
> 
> As far as it being a waste of money, it depends on how you define it. Looking strictly at numbers:
> 
> Cooler A - 73C load temp @ 33dB, $79
> Cooler B - 72C load temp @ 58 dB, $119
> Cooler C - 66C load temp @ 42 dB, $139
> 
> Cooler B certainly looks like the big waste of money there. We could then turn Cooler B into Cooler D by adding Noctua fans (ever so popular with the CLC crowd, because, you know.....lowering CFM and static increases performance....at least on planet CLC) and you wind up with 75C load temp @ 44dB for a whopping $159. Are you seeing the money wasted yet?


The H100i GTX was only released a year ago so I'm not sure what you are talking about. Numbers unfortunately also don't quantify the factors I'm talking about.

But yes I do agree with your assessment that the Swiftech and EK units are better, but the EK unit is over double the price in my country. Regarding Swiftech I can only recommend them as my H220 was fantastic. EK is also very high quality from my custom loop experiences.

I still don't see how the H100i could possibly be a waste of money of all the things in the world if you happened to prefer it's aesthetics. You're not going to get any meaningful advantage with the Swiftech or EK units if you're not going to go for a crazy OC and don't need to expand the unit.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Avant Garde*
> 
> Well, in Europe is pretty hard to obtain... In Germany that old version H240 is around 300 EUROS, and that price is just crazy.


Try highflow.nl .









If it gets too pricey, the Cooler Master Nepton 280L is a far more solid choice than the X61/H110i GTX (they are the same unit with different branding). The Nepton has a far better pump and block, which allows for better performance at similar noise levels.


----------



## Avant Garde

Yeah, I've forgotten about that one! Well, I'm reading now and various users say that they are almost the same (280L vs X61) performance and noise-wise but with NZXT's X61 having that SATA connector and more options through it's CAM software. Hell, it's so hard to chose a good and quiet AIO (Swiftech and EK aside) these days...


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Avant Garde*
> 
> Yeah, I've forgotten about that one! Well, I'm reading now and various users say that they are almost the same (280L vs X61) performance and noise-wise but with NZXT's X61 having that SATA connector and more options through it's CAM software. Hell, it's so hard to chose a good and quiet AIO (Swiftech and EK aside) these days...


At lower noise levels and fan speeds the 280L does a bit better. This is where the much higher flow of the Nepton pump stands out. I tested them myself, but never published the numbers. I will see if I can dig up a test on that for you.

Personally, I have always simply used a 3-pin to SATA or molex to connect pumps directly to the PSU if they don't have the existing connector. A couple of dollars to keep your MB headers out of harm's way.


----------



## Avant Garde

That would be great! Finally someone who has tested both of these solid AIO's!


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gil80*
> 
> I opened my case and there's no molex cable for LEDs. What I did find is these few small connectors much like the LED Fans supplied with the Entho Primo.
> How can I use them to connect to LED's with molex cables?


The molex is there, you may have to dig for it a little. It is marked "LED Strip".


----------



## shamoke

I got the h100i because I like how it looks, and because I got it for ~80 bucks before tax. I couldn't find an air cooler that matched what I wanted in terms of aesthetics, and I don't care about having a big dumb rock in my system. If I were just looking for performance, I'd pretty clearly choose something else (though the h100i FAR exceeded my expectations in performance already)

Also, I have no idea what people are talking about in terms of noise, because it sure as hell ISNT loud if you just adjust the fans properly (unless you're in performance mode all the time, which is hardly that big a difference in temperatures and isn't making or breaking anything for me)

We get different things for different reasons. No need to rag on others for it, especially when it had nothing to do with my question regarding pressure.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shamoke*
> 
> I got the h100i because I like how it looks, and because I got it for ~80 bucks before tax. I couldn't find an air cooler that matched what I wanted in terms of aesthetics, and I don't care about having a big dumb rock in my system. If I were just looking for performance, I'd pretty clearly choose something else (though the h100i FAR exceeded my expectations in performance already)
> 
> Also, I have no idea what people are talking about in terms of noise, because it sure as hell ISNT loud if you just adjust the fans properly (unless you're in performance mode all the time, which is hardly that big a difference in temperatures and isn't making or breaking anything for me)
> 
> We get different things for different reasons. No need to rag on others for it.


I wasn't ragging _you_. Your first sentence sums it all up, there is absolutely nothing to rag on about that.

To answer your initial question....which I totally neglected to do, apologies.....change out the front 200mm for a pair of good 140mm. I have typically used the F140SP - very good fans that are cost effective and obviously match the case. That will get you more flow into teh case, and actually do it with less noise.

On another note - the whole CLC noise thing comes into play mainly with people who run CPU intensive tasks (video editing, CAD, etc). A CLC would drive them (me included) absolutely insane. It's like having the room vacuumed while you are working. Keep in mind the the noise _floor_ of most CLCs is about the same as the noise _ceiling_ of an NH-D15/R1/TC14PE/etc.


----------



## shamoke

I didn't mean you, I'm sorry! I appreciate your insight!

I meant whomever told me I was "wasting money".


----------



## AlDyer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shamoke*
> 
> *I got the h100i because I like how it looks*, and because I got it for ~80 bucks before tax. I couldn't find an air cooler that matched what I wanted in terms of aesthetics, and I don't care about having a big dumb rock in my system. If I were just looking for performance, I'd pretty clearly choose something else (though the h100i FAR exceeded my expectations in performance already)
> 
> Also, I have no idea what people are talking about in terms of noise, because it sure as hell ISNT loud if you just adjust the fans properly (unless you're in performance mode all the time, which is hardly that big a difference in temperatures and isn't making or breaking anything for me)
> 
> We get different things for different reasons. No need to rag on others for it, especially when it had nothing to do with my question regarding pressure.


And that there is one completely valid reason to buy it over a massive air cooling tower (which are great too, but again not for everyone and not in every situation). I can certainly think of worse ways to spend your money. Also I'd like to reiterate that none of the H100i GTX units I've used have been extremely quiet even under Prime95/IBT.


----------



## michael-ocn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> If it gets too pricey, the Cooler Master Nepton 280L is a far more solid choice than the *X61/H110i GTX (they are the same unit with different branding)*. The Nepton has a far better pump and block, which allows for better performance at similar noise levels.


Different brands and different fans too. According to the silentpcreview, nzxt put some nice fans on the x61. I think corsair likes to to put more noisy very higher rpm fan on theirs. If i had to pick between the nzxt and the corsair, i think i'd take the nzxt. To pick between the netpon and the x61, i'd probably want to look and listen to the fans that come with each unit.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AlDyer*
> 
> I am merely using Corsair's own terminology when I call it an AIO, which it is. I don't know why you have such a strong reaction and feel the need to pull hairs between AIO and CLC AIO (everyone here should already know it is a CLC AIO). Now I've used regular CLC's, Swiftech's expandable H220 (in fact made a real nice loop out of it), a proper custom water cooling unit and also, of course, most of all air cooling all the way from a 212 Evo to NH-D15. They ALL have their uses and to pass your rather limited and one-dimensional opinion as some sort of be all end all fact is rather unfortunate.
> 
> I don't know what this cultist stuff you're talking about is nor do I understand how this is an air-cooled forum? We are talking about a case geared toward watercooling are we not?
> 
> Regardless of your off-topic blabber can you please understand that AIO's should't be bought because you want to outperform aircooling? No not at all that would be the waste of money you were talking about, instead consider factors such as ease of installation, conservation of space and improved aesthetics.
> 
> With regards to your concerns about the H100i being loud it is only 4db louder than the NH-D15, for example and I can hardly hear it at all on load or on idle.
> 
> Regarding the AIO RMA it is just as fast as replacing a regular cooler (by the way, Corsair has great customer support) and it also has a 5 year warranty, which certainly should be adequate.


\
'CLC cultist' are those who believe CLCs are better than air cooler. Most are Corsair owners.
'Aircooling forum' is my bad. Thought this was Aircooling, not cases.








Case can be air or water cooled. Most users of CLC are doing a hyped of air and water.
Many of us separate AIO and CLC as being different, even though CLC are part of the AIO group.
If my post is such 'off-topic blabber' why even reply.







'Ease of installation" is a joke. Air coolers are no harder to install than CLC. Often they are easier to install.
'Conservation of space may or may not apply. Most CLCs take up as many cubic cm as air coolers.
'Improved aesthetics' are an individual belief. I prefer the clean look of an air cooler to the jumble of hose on a CLC.
No, H100i is much more then 4db louder than NH-D15 or NH-D15S, but you can believe what you want.

Regarding CLC RMA, if air cooler works when installed (and the do 999.9% of the time) 999.9% of the time there will never be a need to RMA one. When was the last time you heard of an air cooler failing?

As ciarlatano and others are saying basically the same things I said, nothing more needs added.


----------



## AlDyer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> \
> 'CLC cultist' are those who believe CLCs are better than air cooler. Most are Corsair owners.
> 'Aircooling forum' is my bad. Thought this was Aircooling, not cases.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Case can be air or water cooled. Most users of CLC are doing a hyped of air and water.
> Many of us separate AIO and CLC as being different, even though CLC are part of the AIO group.
> If my post is such 'off-topic blabber' why even reply.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 'Ease of installation" is a joke. Air coolers are no harder to install than CLC. Often they are easier to install.
> 'Conservation of space may or may not apply. Most CLCs take up as many cubic cm as air coolers.
> 'Improved aesthetics' are an individual belief. I prefer the clean look of an air cooler to the jumble of hose on a CLC.
> No, H100i is much more then 4db louder than NH-D15 or NH-D15S, but you can believe what you want.
> 
> Regarding CLC RMA, if air cooler works when installed (and the do 999.9% of the time) 999.9% of the time there will never be a need to RMA one. When was the last time you heard of an air cooler failing?
> 
> As ciarlatano and others are saying basically the same things I said, nothing more needs added.


1. Ease of installation is not a joke if we are talking about something like a NH-D15. However, I wasn't even talking solely about air and CLC, CLC's are easier than custom water, but generally speaking also easier than huge air cooling towers (even the Noctuas, which are known for ease of installation and quality).

2. Conservation of space in critical areas is what I am talking about, large heat sinks cover up area on the motherboard area and are too tall for the smaller cases. Again this may or may not apply depending on the use case, but that's exactly my point. You can't say something is a waste of money just because it doesn't suit you.

3. Aesthetics, do I have to repeat my previous sentence? OBBIOUSLY a personal preference and if somebody has a different preference they aren't wasting their money.

4. You can read the H100i GTX review @TWEAKTOWN which clearly shows a 4dB difference between a NH-D15 and H100i GTX on Quiet mode.

5. You have a pretty obviously biased and negative attitude. Also trying to label me as a CLC cultist isn't doing any good to your argument, you can feel free to prove that one. I've only had a single Corsair CLC in a personal rig of mine. And my only other AIO has been the Swiftech H220. Such a cultist indeed.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AlDyer*
> 
> 1. Ease of installation is not a joke if we are talking about something like a NH-D15. However, I wasn't even talking solely about air and CLC, CLC's are easier than custom water, but generally speaking also easier than huge air cooling towers (even the Noctuas, which are known for ease of installation and quality).
> 
> 2. Conservation of space in critical areas is what I am talking about, large heat sinks cover up area on the motherboard area and are too tall for the smaller cases. Again this may or may not apply depending on the use case, but that's exactly my point. You can't say something is a waste of money just because it doesn't suit you.
> 
> 3. Aesthetics, do I have to repeat my previous sentence? OBBIOUSLY a personal preference and if somebody has a different preference they aren't wasting their money.
> 
> 4. You can read the H100i GTX review @TWEAKTOWN which clearly shows a 4dB difference between a NH-D15 and H100i GTX on Quiet mode.
> 
> 5. You have a pretty obviously biased and negative attitude. Also trying to label me as a CLC cultist isn't doing any good to your argument, you can feel free to prove that one. I've only had a single Corsair CLC in a personal rig of mine. And my only other AIO has been the Swiftech H220. Such a cultist indeed.


This is all way off topic, but I will say this.

Honestly....the "ease of installation" is really way off base. I have installed literally hundreds of different coolers, and CLC is *not* easier than the average air cooler. It is essentially the same as the average air cooler with the addition of needing to mount the radiator.

And, yes, the H100i GTX is only slightly louder at it's lowest settings than an NH-D15 _at full speed_. Not sure I would be looking to Tweaktown for Corsair reviews ::coughadvertisingdollarscough::




Now can we get back to the business of Phanteks cases instead of this really played out nonsense about CLCs?


----------



## doyll

ciarlatano summed it up rather well.


----------



## Avant Garde

Wow, that X61 is alongside Swiftech an obvious great choice.


----------



## AlDyer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> This is all way off topic, but I will say this.
> 
> Honestly....the "ease of installation" is really way off base. I have installed literally hundreds of different coolers, and CLC is *not* easier than the average air cooler. It is essentially the same as the average air cooler with the addition of needing to mount the radiator.
> 
> And, yes, the H100i GTX is only slightly louder at it's lowest settings than an NH-D15 _at full speed_. Not sure I would be looking to Tweaktown for Corsair reviews ::coughadvertisingdollarscough::
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now can we get back to the business of Phanteks cases instead of this really played out nonsense about CLCs?


Sure thing, never had any beef with you, it's just that the person who said it was a waste of money to buy a CLC is pretty simple minded.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AlDyer*
> 
> Sure thing, never had any beef with you, it's just that the person who said it was a waste of money to buy a CLC is pretty simple minded.


The poster in question said the magic words - he likes the looks. You can't call having a build you like to look at a waste of money. I'm certainly as guilty of spending money on purely aesthetic pieces as anyone.

Now let's talk about how these pretty pieces fit in pretty Phanteks cases.


----------



## Avant Garde

It has been a pretty good discussion, thanks ciarlatano for his dedication to this topic!







but you still own me test results Nepton 280L vs Kraken X61 though









NOW, let's talk about the best AIO positioning in Evolv ATX, front? top?
Best fans for some good noise-performance ratio?

It would be great if someone can actually take a video of his setup with AIO cooler in Evolv ATX









P.S. Enthoo Pro M Acrylic looks absolutely gorgeous too!


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AlDyer*
> 
> Sure thing, never had any beef with you, it's just that the person who said it was a waste of money to buy a CLC is pretty simple minded.


What I said was "haven't already wasted money on the H100". My intent was to offend you, but to help with a better and quieter cooling system.

How about we take a step back and start over?


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Avant Garde*
> 
> It has been a pretty good discussion, thanks ciarlatano for his dedication to this topic!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> but you still own me test results Nepton 280L vs Kraken X61 though
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> NOW, let's talk about the best AIO positioning in Evolv ATX, front? top?
> Best fans for some good noise-performance ratio?
> 
> It would be great if someone can actually take a video of his setup with AIO cooler in Evolv ATX
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> P.S. Enthoo Pro M Acrylic looks absolutely gorgeous too!


Top, push, exhaust. Seal the open space at the top so you are not recirculating air.


----------



## Otterfluff

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxdarkreap3rxx*
> 
> Xposting from [H]. Not a chassis but my fans came in for my MO-RA3


You wont regret the 18 phanteks fans on the MO-RA3 420 they are whisper quiet all I hear is air being pushed on mine. I opted for using the 140sp with led's.


----------



## Tonza

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Top, push, exhaust. Seal the open space at the top so you are not recirculating air.


Any pictures about this sealing? Or has anyone actually done this and has some results temperature wise. I just got yesterday my Phobya 360 HEXX gril, tomorrow i will probably dremel piece off from the top panel and hide it with 360 hexx grill so warm air can freely move out from the case. If only that sealing alone could make same temperatures than whole top panel off (or with the grill + dremel mod), then i will not cut the top panel with dremel







.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tonza*
> 
> Any pictures about this sealing? Or has anyone actually done this and has some results temperature wise. I just got yesterday my Phobya 360 HEXX gril, tomorrow i will probably dremel piece off from the top panel and hide it with 360 hexx grill so warm air can freely move out from the case. If only that sealing alone could make same temperatures than whole top panel off (or with the grill + dremel mod), then i will not cut the top panel with dremel
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


I have to pull my loop apart this weekend and will take some pics. There are already a few in this thread, people have used black cardboard, tape, etc. You simply need to to fill in the holes in the radiator mounting panel. With a 360mm rad, there isn't much to fill.

As far as temps.....hard to say. It is going to depend on your loop. I was running dual 240mm and was having a terrible time with temps because no air was being exhausted through the top. The top rad was simply recirculating air. After sealing it off, the exhaust through the rear became very noticeable simply by feeling it, and temps dropped to about the same level as when the same equipment was in my Luxe. I haven't run it with the top off, so I can't give you a comparison.

Take the 10 minutes and try sealing it to see if it helps. Certainly a worthwhile investment of your time if it can save you from dremeling out the top.


----------



## Tonza

Hmm will test out today, thanks!. Have some black tape, will post results how it fares against when top panel is completely removed.


----------



## Avant Garde

What are the best fans for Evolv ATX in terms of price/quiet operation/performance?

And what do you guys think about putting some sound dampening material like this one for example :



On these places and the other side panel, of course inside of the case :



There you go Phanteks, here is your new Silent Evolv ATX


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Avant Garde*
> 
> What are the best fans for Evolv ATX in terms of price/quiet operation/performance?
> 
> And what do you guys think about putting some sound dampening material like this one for example :
> 
> 
> 
> On these places and the other side panel, of course inside of the case :
> 
> 
> 
> There you go Phanteks, here is your new Silent Evolv ATX


You will likely find that the sound dampening material is not needed on the Evolv ATX, and would probably do nothing to very little.

As for the fans, you are going to have a hard time improving on the included F140SP in this application regardless of how much you spend. There are better fans made, but they will not necessarily be better as intake and exhaust in this case. However, you can increase airflow slightly by going to three 120mm intakes rather than the two 140mm.


----------



## KaffieneKing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Avant Garde*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> What are the best fans for Evolv ATX in terms of price/quiet operation/performance?
> 
> And what do you guys think about putting some sound dampening material like this one for example :
> 
> 
> 
> On these places and the other side panel, of course inside of the case :
> 
> 
> 
> There you go Phanteks, here is your new Silent Evolv ATX


I don't think the sound dampening will help tbh, will just add further restriction to the grill areas and trap heat more.

I think running fans at lower speeds and ensuring they are fully isolated would be a much better strategy.


----------



## PSILVA

I have seen this video, how do you think the autor of the video put that fan in the top of the HDD cage? Do you think it help to down the temps in the cpu cooler?
Thanks


----------



## Tonza

Just taped out the top and installed top panel, temperatures are now about the same as top panel fully removed, thanks guys!


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tonza*
> 
> Just taped out the top and installed top panel, temperatures are now about the same as top panel fully removed, thanks guys!


Excellent!









Glad that saved you some work.


----------



## Avant Garde

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tonza*
> 
> Just taped out the top and installed top panel, temperatures are now about the same as top panel fully removed, thanks guys!


Can you post some pics please?


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Avant Garde*
> 
> Can you post some pics please?


Keep in mind when asking this, that it is a lot easier said than done. To show any pics of this you have to remove the top rad tray. Most would have to drain their loop to do this. If you are using an AiO, it is far simpler, but still a bit of a task. You have my word that I will post some this weekend when my loop is apart.


----------



## Avant Garde

Ok. Thank you


----------



## Tonza

Update to the taping, it does not work as expected. Temps are still nearly 10c lower if panel is off when gaming, time to dremel i guess :/. Taping helped around 5 celsius at load tho vs unmodded.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tonza*
> 
> Update to the taping, it does not work as expected. Temps are still nearly 10c lower if panel is off when gaming, time to dremel i guess :/.


Odd. Am I correct in assuming that you are running the rad fans as exhaust?


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tonza*
> 
> Update to the taping, it does not work as expected. Temps are still nearly 10c lower if panel is off when gaming, time to dremel i guess :/. Taping helped around 5 celsius at load tho vs unmodded.


What ciarlatano asked
Also, have you tried just setting the top on without clipping it down? This should give you a 5mm gap on both sides as well as ends and more than double the airflow area / vent area out of top.


----------



## Tonza

Yes, the top panel is very hot after the mod, guess it still restricts airflow. Also yeah Predator is set as exhaust.


----------



## Avant Garde

Can that Predator 360 fit on front of the case? That way is maybe a better solution?


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tonza*
> 
> Yes, the top panel is very hot after the mod, guess it still restricts airflow. Also yeah Predator is set as exhaust.


Something just dawned on me - the Predator uses three 2200 rpm Vardars. Obviously they move a lot of air. Most of the systems I have seen use this method were using 240mm up top, or in my case, my fans are setup to max at 1300 rpm. I have to wonder if your not seeing the same results is simply because the amount of air you are trying to move is simply too much for this simple fix to solve the issue, and there is just too much restriction for that type of air movement. Just thinking out loud on that.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Avant Garde*
> 
> Can that Predator 360 fit on front of the case? That way is maybe a better solution?


It can fit, and will yield better CPU temps, but the GPU, VRM, RAM, etc will all run hotter since they will have no source of cool air.


----------



## Avant Garde

Damn, I starting to think that this case (Evolv ATX) is made just for fully custom loop cooling solutions...


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Something just dawned on me - the Predator uses three 2200 rpm Vardars. Obviously they move a lot of air. Most of the systems I have seen use this method were using 240mm up top, or in my case, my fans are setup to max at 1300 rpm. I have to wonder if your not seeing the same results is simply because the amount of air you are trying to move is simply too much for this simple fix to solve the issue, and there is just too much restriction for that type of air movement. Just thinking out loud on that.


I think you are right on this point. I have a Evolv-iTX with a Swiftech H220-X with fans set as exhaust. The Swiftech Helix fans are 1800 rpm max. Mine cools just fine and even when gaming the top gets just slightly warm. I have seen people with EK Predators in this case with the same complaints, poor cooling and the top getting very hot.

I do believe that the 2200 rpm fans are just pushing more air then the top is capable of exhausting.


----------



## MR-e

do you guys know if I can fit a rampage v into the enthoo pro m?


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sexpot*
> 
> do you guys know if I can fit a rampage v into the enthoo pro m?


Phanteks says EATX uptto 264mm wide, Rampage V is 272mm wide. That said, someone recently posted about fitting a big EATX into case that Phanteks specs said wouldn't fit, but I can't remember who did it or the details. Sorry









Quick marking of standoffs in pink on side view of case with scaled overlay of Rampage V Extreme over it shows mounting holes line up and motherboard fits, but covers half of the cable grommet slots on right side.



I have emailed my Phanteks guru. Hopefully will have a reply before the weekend.


----------



## Gil80

Hi.

I bought by mistake a USB 2 card reader hub that fits in the 5.25" bay.

What I wanted to buy was a purely USB3.0 card reader bay hub.
I'm not able to find one which is 5.25" with a mesh design that fits Enthoo Primo case.
Most of them are 3.5", however I still need a 3.5" to 5.25" adapter bay with mesh design.

Since I live in Australia, the options here are limited, so I was wondering if anyone know where I can buy this 3.5" to 5.25" adapter with mesh design online.

I don't recall receiving one with the Enthoo Primo case... do they even supply this thing?


----------



## JbstormburstADV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gil80*
> 
> Hi.
> 
> I bought by mistake a USB 2 card reader hub that fits in the 5.25" bay.
> 
> What I wanted to buy was a purely USB3.0 card reader bay hub.
> I'm not able to find one which is 5.25" with a mesh design that fits Enthoo Primo case.
> Most of them are 3.5", however I still need a 3.5" to 5.25" adapter bay with mesh design.
> 
> Since I live in Australia, the options here are limited, so I was wondering if anyone know where I can buy this 3.5" to 5.25" adapter with mesh design online.
> 
> I don't recall receiving one with the Enthoo Primo case... do they even supply this thing?


Do you not have the option to get the Enermax ECR-501?


----------



## Gil80

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JbstormburstADV*
> 
> Do you not have the option to get the Enermax ECR-501?


it's nice but it's an over kill.
I mostly need it for card reader for my camera


----------



## hht92

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gil80*
> 
> it's nice but it's an over kill.
> I mostly need it for card reader for my camera


Get an external card reader something like this, Kingston FCR-HS4.


----------



## Gil80

thanks, but I prefer internal.


----------



## MR-e

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Phanteks says EATX uptto 264mm wide, Rampage V is 272mm wide. That said, someone recently posted about fitting a big EATX into case that Phanteks specs said wouldn't fit, but I can't remember who did it or the details. Sorry
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quick marking of standoffs in pink on side view of case with scaled overlay of Rampage V Extreme over it shows mounting holes line up and motherboard fits, but covers half of the cable grommet slots on right side.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have emailed my Phanteks guru. Hopefully will have a reply before the weekend.


Thank you doyll, I may get the Pro M and get the X99 Deluxe instead.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sexpot*
> 
> do you guys know if I can fit a rampage v into the enthoo pro m?


The Rampage V Extreme will fit, but be careful the cables and grommet do not put stress on the right side motherboard where it overlaps the cable grommets. That is why the width limitation is 262mm in Phanteks specs.


----------



## MR-e

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> The Rampage V Extreme will fit, but be careful the cables and grommet do not put stress on the right side motherboard where it overlaps the cable grommets. That is why the width limitation is 262mm in Phanteks specs.


Wow thanks! I'm just worried about the 24pin Power cable to the mobo. Seems quite thick as I won't be sleeving. I'll just go with the X99 Deluxe and call it a day... or get the Rampage and shoe horn it in somehow


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sexpot*
> 
> Wow thanks! I'm just worried about the 24pin Power cable to the mobo. Seems quite thick as I won't be sleeving. I'll just go with the X99 Deluxe and call it a day... or get the Rampage and shoe horn it in somehow


Phanteks has power cable extension with individual braided cables I suspect they would fit nicely .. or just bring the power cable up from PSU cover and tie it along the side of motherboard. Could always remove the grommet to increase room for cables too.


----------



## MR-e

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Phanteks has power cable extension with individual braided cables I suspect they would fit nicely .. or just bring the power cable up from PSU cover and tie it along the side of motherboard. Could always remove the grommet to increase room for cables too.


Ah that's genius! I just looked over pictures and there's some cut outs by the PSU just as you said. Hmmm... this is very tempting now. $100 case or a $500 Lian Li again


----------



## doyll

Or use a slightly bigger Phanteks case, like Pro or Luxe.


----------



## MR-e

Hehe, sometimes Aesthetics > Function when it comes to builds


----------



## Avant Garde

Lian Li is overpriced and overrated.


----------



## Fantomau

get the luxe. love mine


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sexpot*
> 
> Hehe, sometimes Aesthetics > Function when it comes to builds


I know that all too well.....I have a Luxe, which fits all of my loop with ease. I also have an Evolv ATX which fits neither of my usual rads comfortably (Nemesis GTX360 and 280mm U60) while maintaining HDD space, plus separate Photon 170 and D5 (also a reeeeeealllly fun fit with a front rad). Brain says "move your build into the Luxe, it will only cost you $25 for some tubing". Plus, my Luxe is white, and I have all white Monsoon fittings. Simple, right? Then why did I just buy an MMRS res/pump combo with all the goodies and a 360GTS so I could keep the build in the Evolv ATX? That isn't a rhetorical question, btw, I'm hoping someone has an answer that isn't "because you are completely out of your mind".


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> I know that all too well.....I have a Luxe, which fits all of my loop with ease. I also have an Evolv ATX which fits neither of my usual rads comfortably (Nemesis GTX360 and 280mm U60) while maintaining HDD space, plus separate Photon 170 and D5 (also a reeeeeealllly fun fit with a front rad). Brain says "move your build into the Luxe, it will only cost you $25 for some tubing". Plus, my Luxe is white, and I have all white Monsoon fittings. Simple, right? Then why did I just buy an MMRS res/pump combo with all the goodies and a 360GTS so I could keep the build in the Evolv ATX? That isn't a rhetorical question, btw, I'm hoping someone has an answer that isn't "because you are completely out of your mind".


Because despite it's shortcomings the Evolv ATX is a really cool case, and sometimes that is the only reason you need.


----------



## Gil80

Do you think it's possible to cut a 3.5" rectangle in the 5.25" bay cover?

If yes, then how would you go about it?


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> I know that all too well.....I have a Luxe, which fits all of my loop with ease. I also have an Evolv ATX which fits neither of my usual rads comfortably (Nemesis GTX360 and 280mm U60) while maintaining HDD space, plus separate Photon 170 and D5 (also a reeeeeealllly fun fit with a front rad). Brain says "move your build into the Luxe, it will only cost you $25 for some tubing". Plus, my Luxe is white, and I have all white Monsoon fittings. Simple, right? Then why did I just buy an MMRS res/pump combo with all the goodies and a 360GTS so I could keep the build in the Evolv ATX? That isn't a rhetorical question, btw, I'm hoping someone has an answer that isn't "because you are completely out of your mind".


to save yourself the hassle of switching to a new case AGAIN and youre probably attached to its sleekness by now......its kinda like i always ask WHY when i see a 1000 dollar car with 5k worth of rims and 1k worth of rubber on them.... but the owner like it so why not :0


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> I know that all too well.....I have a Luxe, which fits all of my loop with ease. I also have an Evolv ATX which fits neither of my usual rads comfortably (Nemesis GTX360 and 280mm U60) while maintaining HDD space, plus separate Photon 170 and D5 (also a reeeeeealllly fun fit with a front rad). Brain says "move your build into the Luxe, it will only cost you $25 for some tubing". Plus, my Luxe is white, and I have all white Monsoon fittings. Simple, right? Then why did I just buy an MMRS res/pump combo with all the goodies and a 360GTS so I could keep the build in the Evolv ATX? That isn't a rhetorical question, btw, I'm hoping someone has an answer that isn't "because you are completely out of your mind".


Sorry, and I know others have answered trying to help you with this dilemma, but your are a raving lunatic. Takes one to know one.









I'm in similar dilemma. I know the Luxe cools better has easy access, filters can all be easily accessed and cleaned without moving case (by taping bottom filters together), looks great, etc.
And the Evolv needs more top venting, has no bottom venting and has to be moved to access bottom filter.
But the Evolv just keeps right on begging me to use it instead of Luxe.


----------



## Avant Garde

.......and it's a far better looking case than Luxe







Although, Luxe is pretty good looking too. It's such a shame that Evolv ATX have so many restrictions in favor of good looks and that premium feel, such a shame... In the end I might get something else like MasterCase Pro 5 or something from Swedish Case Mafia


----------



## doyll

Evolv has a much more solid 'macho' look. The slotted venting in thick aluminum panels really give it a 'no nonsense' 'all business' kind of look. Not that Luxe looks effeminate, not at all. It's not as 'muscular' and serious looking. Kinda like comparing a luxury yacht to a battleship. The might be similar in size, but the battleship is more macho.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gil80*
> 
> Do you think it's possible to cut a 3.5" rectangle in the 5.25" bay cover?
> 
> If yes, then how would you go about it?


Please don't take this wrong, but if you have to ask, you probably don't have the tools or skills to do it.









Yes it can be done .. with a drill, fine toothed saw (jewelers/jig/coping/scroll saw) and a couple of files for final fit and finish. Will need a bench, clamps, masking tape, etc.

I can give detailed instructions if you want.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> to save yourself the hassle of switching to a new case AGAIN and youre probably attached to its sleekness by now......its kinda like i always ask WHY when i see a 1000 dollar car with 5k worth of rims and 1k worth of rubber on them.... but the owner like it so why not :0


Only difference is all cases to component costs are like that when compared to cost of components we put in them.


----------



## Gil80

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Please don't take this wrong, but if you have to ask, you probably don't have the tools or skills to do it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yes it can be done .. with a drill, fine toothed saw (jewelers/jig/coping/scroll saw) and a couple of files for final fit and finish. Will need a bench, clamps, masking tape, etc.
> 
> I can give detailed instructions if you want.


Hahaha don't worry...

I have tools but never done so before.

Appreciate any advice


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gil80*
> 
> Hahaha don't worry...
> 
> I have tools but never done so before.
> 
> Appreciate any advice


Just not sure we should do it here. This is more a general case mod than just a Phanteks case mod.

I assume this is for your Primo?
What is this 3.5" hole for?


----------



## Gil80

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Just not sure we should do it here. This is more a general case mod than just a Phanteks case mod.
> 
> I assume this is for your Primo?
> What is this 3.5" hole for?


Yes it's for my Primo









I want to install a USB3.0 card reader.
By mistake I bought 5..25" which is USB 2: Nzxt Aperture M.

I couldn't find any normal (i.e, without overkill of USB ports and unnecessary features) USB3.0 card readers @ 5.25".
The only that could be suitable, is not sold in Australia: http://www.enermax.com/home.php?fn=eng/product_a1_1_1&lv0=3&lv1=82&no=284. Yes, this does have too many USB ports, but at least it's 5.25" and can also mount HDD, thus eliminating the need to use the Phanteks HDD cage that blocks my front Rad Fans.

So I'm left only with the Bitfenix Black 3.5" SuperSpeed USB3 Card Reader which is sold in Australia.
I think the Primo comes with a 3."5 adapter for the 5.25" mount, but then there's no 5.25" shroud in the same mesh design.

Hope I was clear


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gil80*
> 
> Yes it's for my Primo
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I want to install a USB3.0 card reader.
> By mistake I bought 5..25" which is USB 2: Nzxt Aperture M.
> 
> I couldn't find any normal (i.e, without overkill of USB ports and unnecessary features) USB3.0 card readers @ 5.25".
> The only that could be suitable, is not sold in Australia: http://www.enermax.com/home.php?fn=eng/product_a1_1_1&lv0=3&lv1=82&no=284. Yes, this does have too many USB ports, but at least it's 5.25" and can also mount HDD, thus eliminating the need to use the Phanteks HDD cage that blocks my front Rad Fans.
> 
> So I'm left only with the Bitfenix Black 3.5" SuperSpeed USB3 Card Reader which is sold in Australia.
> I think the Primo comes with a 3."5 adapter for the 5.25" mount, but then there's no 5.25" shroud in the same mesh design.
> 
> Hope I was clear


Would one of these work?
http://www.ebay.com.au/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2050601.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.H0.X5.25+usb+ports.TRS0&_nkw=5.25+usb+ports&_sacat=0


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Would one of these work?
> http://www.ebay.com.au/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2050601.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.H0.X5.25+usb+ports.TRS0&_nkw=5.25+usb+ports&_sacat=0




Good find, this one even has a mesh front. http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/5-25-CDROM-Bay-Front-Panel-USB-3-0-Port-Hub-All-in-One-USB-2-0-Card-Reader-/181926453999?hash=item2a5ba962ef:g:CaAAAOSwu-BWP3kI


----------



## Gil80

hmmm... thanks for the effort, but see that the card reader is USB 2 and not 3.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gil80*
> 
> hmmm... thanks for the effort, but see that the card reader is USB 2 and not 3.


A solid front 5.5 with 3.0 USB will probably look better than a modded stock 5.25 cover.

Cutting the mesh 5.25 stock grill to fit a 3.5 into it is not going to be easy and probably not look finished when done. Problems are cutting without bending / distorting mess, and the incomplete holes that will be left in cut surface. If I was being forced to do it I would want at least one extra cover to work with. Then probably cut an 'X' line to each corner and bend the mesh on each of the sides to leave the needed 3.5 opening.


----------



## Ypsylon

Hi guys, what better place to ask my question. If it was answered then apologies because I didn't find it.

Can I use 360/45 rad on bottom in push pull setup with both HDD cages in place? By push pull I mean 25[fan]+7[rubber spacer]+45[rad]+7[spacer]+25[fan] or 25+7+45+38[gutted fan frame which will aid in draining the loop]

I'm close to deciding what case I will use and Enthoo Primo clawed itself to the top of the list (well I would obtain another CL but with recent changes to currency exchanges and prohibitive S&H - I can get 2 Enthoo Primo just for S&H+VAT - it's out of the question). I will not run extreme system (just liquid cooled cpu-vga(no oc)-RAID controller). I have spare Nexxxos 360/45 laying around and I would like to put it in there, but I would love to retain 6 HDDs mounts. I want to avoid the need for 5.25"-3.5" backplanes as I will need that space for 2.5" RAID backplanes.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ypsylon*
> 
> Hi guys, what better place to ask my question. If it was answered then apologies because I didn't find it.
> 
> Can I use 360/45 rad on bottom in push pull setup with both HDD cages in place? By push pull I mean 25[fan]+7[rubber spacer]+45[rad]+7[spacer]+25[fan] or 25+7+45+38[gutted fan frame which will aid in draining the loop]
> 
> I'm close to deciding what case I will use and Enthoo Primo clawed itself to the top of the list (well I would obtain another CL but with recent changes to currency exchanges and prohibitive S&H - I can get 2 Enthoo Primo just for S&H+VAT - it's out of the question). I will not run extreme system (just liquid cooled cpu-vga(no oc)-RAID controller). I have spare Nexxxos 360/45 laying around and I would like to put it in there, but I would love to retain 6 HDDs mounts. I want to avoid the need for 5.25"-3.5" backplanes as I will need that space for 2.5" RAID backplanes.


Sorry, I can't verify if radiator fits.
Just wanted to remind you the Primo is huge. I will just fit under most desk tops.







I am in no way saying not to get one. I love mine. But I also have an Enthoo Luxe (and a Enthoo Evolv ATX) While Evolv is cramped, Luxe is a good a good balance of usable space in a usable size.


----------



## Ypsylon

OK, so I will wait for confirmation.

BTW: Enthoo Primo is quite big. CaseLabs TH10A now that's huge.


----------



## doyll

Primo is 250x650x600mm
TH10A is 381x637x662mm
That is 131mm wider, but 13mm shorter & 62mm deeper
TH10A is much wider, similar height and wider. Both are huge,it's just huger.


----------



## PureBlackFire

someone made a nice RGB mod on their Evolv mATX


----------



## morganism

Hello there Phanteks, er fans...

Have a cooling question for owners of the Primo. I'm getting idle temps that seem too high considering all the fans/coolers, and would appreciate any feedback!

Idle temps are mid 30s to 40 degrees C. Under stress test I get into the 80s, making it a pain to aggressively overclock.

My hardware is as follows, but I'm mainly wondering about my fan layout rather than the overclocking:
5960x 4.3 overclock.
x99 deluxe mobo
gtx 980 evga reference blower
Nothing else inside making heat, 4ssds, 4dds.

There is a drawing below to help illustrate, but note that there is no fan in the top where it says 'empty' and there are also 2x 120mm Cougar fans on the internal hdd cages, pulling air further into the case towards the graphics cards.

Enthoo Primo case
h100 280mm rad CPU cooler in the roof - 2x stock 140mm fans pulling air out from above.
2 x stock 140mm case fans pulling air in from the bottom
1 x stock 140mm case fan exhausting air out the back
2 x stock 140mm case fans pulling air in the front.

also 2 x 120mm cougar pwm fans on the hdd cages, pulling air from the front to the back of the case.

I'm wondering if maybe changing the fans on the rad to intake cold air might help? Or does buying batter fans really help cooling that much? I thought the stock Phantek fans that came with the case were meant to be pretty good, as they make coolers and all...

Just seems like a lot of fans to to have such high idle temps, no? Any tips appreciated thanks!


----------



## smithydan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morganism*
> 
> Hello there Phanteks, er fans...
> 
> Have a cooling question for owners of the Primo.


What is your voltage?
Do the fans on the H110 speed up when heat increases?
Also is the cooler seated properly and tight?


----------



## InfiniteImp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morganism*
> 
> I'm getting idle temps that seem too high considering all the fans/coolers, and would appreciate any feedback!
> 
> Idle temps are mid 30s to 40 degrees C. Under stress test I get into the 80s, making it a pain to aggressively overclock.
> 
> My hardware is as follows, but I'm mainly wondering about my fan layout rather than the overclocking:
> 5960x 4.3 overclock.
> 
> Just seems like a lot of fans to to have such high idle temps, no?


I'm running the same case except I have a custom loop with a 480mm rad and 8 fans on it in push/pull. With a 5930k OCed to 4.375 I idle at about 34, so not far from your range. The fact is that the socket 2011-3 chips just run hotter. I came from an X79 board where my idle temps were about 10 degrees cooler (23-25 degrees at idle). So, one thing to consider is that the problem may not be related to the case but rather the chip.


----------



## Gil80

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morganism*
> 
> Hello there Phanteks, er fans...
> 
> Have a cooling question for owners of the Primo. I'm getting idle temps that seem too high considering all the fans/coolers, and would appreciate any feedback!
> 
> Idle temps are mid 30s to 40 degrees C. Under stress test I get into the 80s, making it a pain to aggressively overclock.


1. Phanteks fans which are designed for radiators, are in fact a good choice. I run the same case and as far as I know the stock fans are designed for radiators. I use 13 fans








2. You have to tell us your room ambient temps as well. Are you able to use some temp meter which is reliable? i.e. if most refrigerators cool to 4c then see if your temp meter gives you similar result (its an assumption, not exact science)
3. How much voltage you have on your CPU? I'm not familiar with this CPU so I can't help you much there but ask in relevant forums on the voltages which are suitable for this chip at these settings to get a better understanding if your settings are too high.
4. What's the RPM of the fans on idle?
5. are you sure the cooling block sits well on the CPU?
6. did you apply thermal paste correctly?
7. The radiators should get the coldest air possible, which means pull configuration on the top radiator.


----------



## morganism

Thanks for the ideas.
The cpu voltage is 1.3 at most I believe. The h110 fans do indeed speed up via pwm, as with all of the fans in the case. I've got them set to go full speed at anything above 60 c. I'm using the stock thermal paste that came pre-applied with the h110. The cooler is screwed in tightly but not overly tight, about as tight as I can go via twisting by hand, if that makes sense...

Do you think re-applying aftermarket thermal paste could make that much of a temp change?


----------



## morganism

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InfiniteImp*
> 
> I'm running the same case except I have a custom loop with a 480mm rad and 8 fans on it in push/pull. With a 5930k OCed to 4.375 I idle at about 34, so not far from your range. The fact is that the socket 2011-3 chips just run hotter. I came from an X79 board where my idle temps were about 10 degrees cooler (23-25 degrees at idle). So, one thing to consider is that the problem may not be related to the case but rather the chip.


Thank you for saying this, good to know I am not alone and that even a 480mm rad heats up hot. I also went from x79 to x99.

I'm guessing my changing the fan direction on the rad won't make much of a difference then. Just wanted to ask about before I spent ages flipping the fans around....


----------



## morganism

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gil80*
> 
> 1. Phanteks fans which are designed for radiators, are in fact a good choice. I run the same case and as far as I know the stock fans are designed for radiators. I use 13 fans
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 2. You have to tell us your room ambient temps as well. Are you able to use some temp meter which is reliable? i.e. if most refrigerators cool to 4c then see if your temp meter gives you similar result (its an assumption, not exact science)
> 3. How much voltage you have on your CPU? I'm not familiar with this CPU so I can't help you much there but ask in relevant forums on the voltages which are suitable for this chip at these settings to get a better understanding if your settings are too high.
> 4. What's the RPM of the fans on idle?
> 5. are you sure the cooling block sits well on the CPU?
> 6. did you apply thermal paste correctly?
> 7. The radiators should get the coldest air possible, which means pull configuration on the top radiator.


Thanks for this too!

I'm using the build for video editing work so not really bothered about overclocking it at all so much as knowing if I can cut down temps decently by simply changing the direction of the rad fans? Sounds like you think it might be worth it...Okay to have all fans on intake except the one rear exhaust though?

To answer just the same:

Ambient temps are probably about 20 c inside the case. Normal cold english room. =]
CPU voltage 1.3 I think, possibly 1.25 or the like.
Fan RPMs at idle, not sure right now as at work. But I'm guessing 1000rpm, then they max out at 60 c.
I'm fairly sure the cooking block and thermal paste are all happy, any symptoms to look out for of why they might not be besides generally high temps?
And I guess it sounds like I should flip the rad fans around to push air in....


----------



## Gil80

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morganism*
> 
> Thanks for this too!
> 
> I'm using the build for video editing work so not really bothered about overclocking it at all so much as knowing if I can cut down temps decently by simply changing the direction of the rad fans? Sounds like you think it might be worth it...Okay to have all fans on intake except the one rear exhaust though?
> 
> To answer just the same:
> 
> Ambient temps are probably about 20 c inside the case. Normal cold english room. =]
> CPU voltage 1.3 I think, possibly 1.25 or the like.
> Fan RPMs at idle, not sure right now as at work. But I'm guessing 1000rpm, then they max out at 60 c.
> I'm fairly sure the cooking block and thermal paste are all happy, any symptoms to look out for of why they might not be besides generally high temps?
> And I guess it sounds like I should flip the rad fans around to push air in....


1. flipping the rads is heading the right direction but not drastically improving temps. Yet, that's the batter way to go. Do a measure of before and after while making sure you have exact ambient temps reading at both tests and then see how much you shaved off (if any). It may knock off 4deg because you are no longer blowing hot air on the rads.

2. make sure the fans have decent clearance from desk / walls so they are not intaking /recycling hot air all over again

3. 1000RPM on idle?! :O doesn't sound right to me. but makes sense if you have high idle temps when thinking about it. 10deg over 20deg ambient in idle is a lot and not desired.

4. Is it swiftech or Corsair AIO cooler? their stock thermal paste is good and won't gain much if you buy the top of the top.

5. 1.3v on idle is high!!! I use Core i7 3770K OC at 4.7GHz and I use 1.224v at max and 0.92v at idle... I'd refer to you BIOS/UEFI settings. - just final remark on this, we use different CPU's so I'm almost comparing apples and oranges, which is not fair. So what I say here, take with a pinch of salt BUT do ask in overclocking forum even if you are no overclocking. People who know this CPU, may tell you if you are within expected results or not.

But first step, ask about the CPU in OC forums to get better understanding of your voltages and expected temps.
Regardless, please do change the top fans for intake, not before measuring temps with an actual meter and not hunch or phone app... if you don't have one, buy now









EDIT: I don't know what's the current state with intel's thermal paste policy but with Ivy bridge and Haswell, they used cheap thermal paste to conduct heat from the chip to the metal plate, which results in high temps. Community members perusing performance had to delid (lid off) the metal plate and use LiquidUltra by CoolLaboratory which is a liquid metal that conducts heat in best possible way. This process alone helped me shave off 20deg!!! (see my signature)


----------



## michael-ocn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morganism*
> 
> Thanks for this too!
> 
> I'm using the build for video editing work so not really bothered about overclocking it at all so much as knowing if I can cut down temps decently by simply changing the direction of the rad fans? Sounds like you think it might be worth it...Okay to have all fans on intake except the one rear exhaust though?
> 
> To answer just the same:
> 
> Ambient temps are probably about 20 c inside the case. Normal cold english room. =]
> CPU voltage 1.3 I think, possibly 1.25 or the like.
> Fan RPMs at idle, not sure right now as at work. But I'm guessing 1000rpm, then they max out at 60 c.
> I'm fairly sure the cooking block and thermal paste are all happy, any symptoms to look out for of why they might not be besides generally high temps?
> And I guess it sounds like I should flip the rad fans around to push air in....


What voltage and speed is idle? My 5820k is setup to idle at 1.2Ghz and 0.82v. My guess is you've disabled adaptive voltage and speedstep stuff. Maybe the octocore at 4.3Ghz and 1.3v is a little too much the asetek cooler.

Also, 1.3v does sound on the high side for 4.3Ghz. Have you tried to bring that down?


----------



## bmt22033

I've finally decided to upgrade my 5yo Sandy Bridge system to Skylake and I'm currently looking at cases. I've *really* fallen in love with the EVOLV ATX (especially that beautiful Anthracite Gray). I was just about to order it when I realized that it doesn't have a 5.25" drive bay for my BR burner. I've got a huge CD collection that I'm still in the process of ripping and on occasion, I'll rip a movie for one of our mobile devices. As much as I hate it, I just don't think I can give up the optical drive just yet. I know this is probably wishful thinking but does anyone know if Phanteks plans to release another case with similar looks to the EVOLV ATX that will have a 5.25" bay?


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bmt22033*
> 
> I've finally decided to upgrade my 5yo Sandy Bridge system to Skylake and I'm currently looking at cases. I've *really* fallen in love with the EVOLV ATX (especially that beautiful Anthracite Gray). I was just about to order it when I realized that it doesn't have a 5.25" drive bay for my BR burner. I've got a huge CD collection that I'm still in the process of ripping and on occasion, I'll rip a movie for one of our mobile devices. As much as I hate it, I just don't think I can give up the optical drive just yet. I know this is probably wishful thinking but does anyone know if Phanteks plans to release another case with similar looks to the EVOLV ATX that will have a 5.25" bay?


Yu can always put the burner is a USB 3.0 enclosure and pull it out when you need it.


----------



## KaffieneKing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Yu can always put the burner is a USB 3.0 enclosure and pull it out when you need it.


IMO this is the way forward, bought a usb dvd reader/writer, cleaner internal build and less noise for me was a win win.


----------



## bmt22033

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Yu can always put the burner is a USB 3.0 enclosure and pull it out when you need it.


Doh! That thought never even crossed my mind but I love it! Now I *can* get the EVOLV ATX and still use my optical drive. Thanks very much for the suggestion!


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bmt22033*
> 
> Doh! That thought never even crossed my mind but I love it! Now I *can* get the EVOLV ATX and still use my optical drive. Thanks very much for the suggestion!


Or you could go with an Evolv mATX which does have a 5.25 bay at the back. http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811854011


----------



## michael-ocn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bmt22033*
> 
> Doh! That thought never even crossed my mind but I love it! Now I *can* get the EVOLV ATX and still use my optical drive. Thanks very much for the suggestion!


checkout the pioneer BDR models for a very slick looking external drive


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bmt22033*
> 
> I've finally decided to upgrade my 5yo Sandy Bridge system to Skylake and I'm currently looking at cases. I've *really* fallen in love with the EVOLV ATX (especially that beautiful Anthracite Gray). I was just about to order it when I realized that it doesn't have a 5.25" drive bay for my BR burner. I've got a huge CD collection that I'm still in the process of ripping and on occasion, I'll rip a movie for one of our mobile devices. As much as I hate it, I just don't think I can give up the optical drive just yet. I know this is probably wishful thinking but does anyone know if Phanteks plans to release another case with similar looks to the EVOLV ATX that will have a 5.25" bay?


As suggested, you can get an external housing for existing 5.25, or for $10-20.00 just buy a thin USB powered external DVD drive. The cheap ones use 2x USB cables while the higher priced only use one. I got a cheap one and taped the cables together and secured them to drive so when I need it I only have to hunt for one thing.








http://www.amazon.com/Andget%C2%AE-External-Combo-Burner-Silver/dp/B00IYAWYNE/ref=sr_1_14?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1456828229&sr=1-14&keywords=usb+dvd+drive
http://www.amazon.com/External-Superdrive-Enclosure-Protective-Ultra-thin/dp/B0149TBYSE/ref=sr_1_55?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1456828451&sr=1-55&keywords=usb+dvd+drive


----------



## seanbarkley

Hey guys, I leave you here a few pictures of my Evolv ATX. Building in this case has been bread and butter!



















Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seanbarkley*
> 
> Hey guys, I leave you here a few pictures of my Evolv ATX. Building in this case has been bread and butter!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Very nice.


----------



## morganism

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *michael-ocn*
> 
> What voltage and speed is idle? My 5820k is setup to idle at 1.2Ghz and 0.82v. My guess is you've disabled adaptive voltage and speedstep stuff. Maybe the octocore at 4.3Ghz and 1.3v is a little too much the asetek cooler.
> 
> Also, 1.3v does sound on the high side for 4.3Ghz. Have you tried to bring that down?


Thanks for replying to this, think I've got it figured out now in that I should not expect super low temps with this chip and a h110.

But for the record, it is a dual boot machine running MacOS and Windows 8.1 right now. Temps are high when idle under both systems, though higher under macOS as it does not support speed stepping, so I'm running it at 3.8ghz constantly there. Fans are controlled in the BIOS to ramp up to maximum when the temps get above 60. Voltage is set to be adaptive and I am just running the default XMP profile for now, as my 64GB of ram is not on the supported vendor list, and I had problems getting all 64gb of it recognized in the BIOS if manually overclocking. Will have to get around to trying that again when I get some time.

Otherwise, I've got a few more fans so will try chucking them in, maybe adding a push-pull config to maybe knock a few more degrees but I'm happy with this guy overall even if he is a bit warm. The Primo really is an easy case to work with for those like me who lack small fingers and are happy to have too much space rather than too little!


----------



## Avant Garde

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seanbarkley*
> 
> Hey guys, I leave you here a few pictures of my Evolv ATX. Building in this case has been bread and butter!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Great build! Even better photos!







Easily one, if not the best, looking setup.

I must ask about noise, temps and dust, so would you like to share some info about that?


----------



## Faster_is_better

^ Epic picture quality. The lighting is superb too. Nice job seanbarkley
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ypsylon*
> 
> Hi guys, what better place to ask my question. If it was answered then apologies because I didn't find it.
> 
> Can I use 360/45 rad on bottom in push pull setup with both HDD cages in place? By push pull I mean 25[fan]+7[rubber spacer]+45[rad]+7[spacer]+25[fan] or 25+7+45+38[gutted fan frame which will aid in draining the loop]
> 
> I'm close to deciding what case I will use and Enthoo Primo clawed itself to the top of the list (well I would obtain another CL but with recent changes to currency exchanges and prohibitive S&H - I can get 2 Enthoo Primo just for S&H+VAT - it's out of the question). I will not run extreme system (just liquid cooled cpu-vga(no oc)-RAID controller). I have spare Nexxxos 360/45 laying around and I would like to put it in there, but I would love to retain 6 HDDs mounts. I want to avoid the need for 5.25"-3.5" backplanes as I will need that space for 2.5" RAID backplanes.


Typically for the bottom of the Primo you will run into length or width issues far before height issues. 360 Rad may be to long to fit in the bottom and keep both drive bays. Check here for measurements.


----------



## michael-ocn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morganism*
> 
> Thanks for replying to this, think I've got it figured out now in that I should not expect super low temps with this chip and a h110.
> 
> But for the record, it is a dual boot machine running MacOS and Windows 8.1 right now. Temps are high when idle under both systems, though higher under macOS as it does not support speed stepping, so I'm running it at 3.8ghz constantly there. Fans are controlled in the BIOS to ramp up to maximum when the temps get above 60. Voltage is set to be adaptive and I am just running the default XMP profile for now, as my 64GB of ram is not on the supported vendor list, and I had problems getting all 64gb of it recognized in the BIOS if manually overclocking. Will have to get around to trying that again when I get some time.
> 
> Otherwise, I've got a few more fans so will try chucking them in, maybe adding a push-pull config to maybe knock a few more degrees but I'm happy with this guy overall even if he is a bit warm. The Primo really is an easy case to work with for those like me who lack small fingers and are happy to have too much space rather than too little!


You could head over to this thread if you want some help/advice optimizing the haswell-e overclock.
http://www.overclock.net/t/1510388/haswell-e-overclock-leaderboard-owners-club


----------



## flynna3162581

i cant remember were but i saw a phanteks evolv off of a modder that had covered his case in sheet aluminium ..... cant for the love of it find were the image was ... can any one help with the modder ??


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *flynna3162581*
> 
> i cant remember were but i saw a phanteks evolv off of a modder that had covered his case in sheet aluminium ..... cant for the love of it find were the image was ... can any one help with the modder ??


Enthoo Evolv ATX comes in 3 finishes, one is aluminum finish.


----------



## flynna3162581

i know but one i saw was a black case adorned by aluminium pieces .... on the outside and inside


----------



## CallMeRizzo

Recently did a case swap into the Enthoo Pro M Acrylic. This was a fun little project while making my previous build look 1000 times better. There are still a few small odds and ends that need to be addressed (cable combs are coming), but overall I love the case.


----------



## doyll

@CallMeRizzo
Nicely done!
And welcome to OCN.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *flynna3162581*
> 
> i know but one i saw was a black case adorned by aluminium pieces .... on the outside and inside


I only replied to what you posted mate.
You said "modder that had covered his case in sheet aluminium" ; covered being the key word.








Now you come back with "adorned by aluminium pieces".
Not the same thing .. not even close.


----------



## MR-e

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CallMeRizzo*
> 
> Recently did a case swap into the Enthoo Pro M Acrylic. This was a fun little project while making my previous build look 1000 times better. There are still a few small odds and ends that need to be addressed (cable combs are coming), but overall I love the case.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


The thing that drove me away from the Enthoo Pro M was the front filter... err lack of adequate filters. How do you find the dusting with the side and bottom vents of the front panel?


----------



## hht92

Today received 3 TY-147A and the gelid PWM, bottom fan ok and in the 2 front fans i could just use top screws (cause of the shape), it is indeed tight, i will be ok with 2 screws in each fan yea?


----------



## clarifiante

Can't seem to find any info on how much the evolv atx's front filter cuts down airflow. Would anyone be able to chime in?


----------



## michael-ocn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *clarifiante*
> 
> Can't seem to find any info on how much the evolv atx's front filter cuts down airflow. Would anyone be able to chime in?


Kinda interesting question, I hadn't thought of pulling the filter on mine. I think i prefer my two other measures to collecting dust:
- propping open the front panel at the bottom 5 or 10mm
- swinging the side panel door open when the gpu is going at full steam (acx2 type cooler)


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hht92*
> 
> Today received 3 TY-147A and the gelid PWM, bottom fan ok and in the 2 front fans i could just use top screws (cause of the shape), it is indeed tight, i will be ok with 2 screws in each fan yea?


Yup, the front two are a very tight fit. As long as they don't more you should be okay. What positions are the 2 screws in? Diagonal is best.
How do they compare to stock fans in flow and noise levels?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *clarifiante*
> 
> Can't seem to find any info on how much the evolv atx's front filter cuts down airflow. Would anyone be able to chime in?


I have not measured the flow resistance of Phanteks filters. My philosophy is if it's an intake vent, it has to be filtered. If it isn't moving enough air I either need to increase vent area to flow more air or get a fan that can pull the needed air through the filter.

As michael-ocn said, try propping the bottom of front cover open I'm working on a spacer kit to move front cover forward 12-15mm to increase front vent area. I did 7mm on top and doubled it's vent area. This adds a vent line between side covers and top the same width as vent slots in top, so looks quite nice. If you remove the screws holding top on (2x front & back) top clips off just like front. Take top off and just set it back on without pushing it down and it looks same as mine looks with spacers.







But if you are air cooling you probably don't want more top venting. It tends to move GPU's heated exhaust air up around CPU cooler intake. More front to back flow is better.


----------



## clarifiante

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Yup, the front two are a very tight fit. As long as they don't more you should be okay. What positions are the 2 screws in? Diagonal is best.
> How do they compare to stock fans in flow and noise levels?
> I have not measured the flow resistance of Phanteks filters. My philosophy is if it's an intake vent, it has to be filtered. If it isn't moving enough air I either need to increase vent area to flow more air or get a fan that can pull the needed air through the filter.
> 
> As michael-ocn said, try propping the bottom of front cover open I'm working on a spacer kit to move front cover forward 12-15mm to increase front vent area. I did 7mm on top and doubled it's vent area. This adds a vent line between side covers and top the same width as vent slots in top, so looks quite nice. If you remove the screws holding top on (2x front & back) top clips off just like front. Take top off and just set it back on without pushing it down and it looks same as mine looks with spacers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But if you are air cooling you probably don't want more top venting. It tends to move GPU's heated exhaust air up around CPU cooler intake. More front to back flow is better.


I'm on an AIO loop with cpu and gpu. Rad is front intake. Fans are now the f4 vardars which are only slated to move 77cfm. Am contemplating going ape**** mad and get the 3000rpm industrial noctua's 120mm fans.i do have the front panel propped out. Also cut off the top with a piece of cardboard at the moment


----------



## hht92

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Yup, the front two are a very tight fit. As long as they don't more you should be okay. What positions are the 2 screws in? Diagonal is best.
> How do they compare to stock fans in flow and noise levels?


Bottom fan screws are diagonal but in front cant do that. What i did is this (2 at the top and 2 at the top, not mine image







)



Flow is excellent (didn't put top 200mm fan cause too noisy) also temps dropped and i remove also the psu cover and all the pci slots.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *clarifiante*
> 
> I'm on an AIO loop with cpu and gpu. Rad is front intake. Fans are now the f4 vardars which are only slated to move 77cfm. Am contemplating going ape**** mad and get the 3000rpm industrial noctua's 120mm fans.i do have the front panel propped out. Also cut off the top with a piece of cardboard at the moment


I think you would be disappointing with the Nocs. They really don't perform as well as the Vardar F4 do.
Vardars move much more air at same speed and noise level. If you want more airflow, get the Vardar F4-120ER, or better yet Nidec Gentle Typhoon AP-29 or AP-30 PWM


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hht92*
> 
> Bottom fan screws are diagonal but in front cant do that. What i did is this (2 at the top and 2 at the top, not mine image
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )
> 
> 
> 
> Flow is excellent (didn't put top 200mm fan cause too noisy) also temps dropped and i remove also the psu cover and all the pci slots.


Replacing the 200mm with 2x 140mm seems to always always improve performance. As you know, I had similar problem with not being able to use all mounting holes. A small round file could be used to enlarge the slot the little needed to get diagonal screws in, but that is up to you.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> I think you would be disappointing with the Nocs. They really don't perform as well as the Vardar F4 do.
> Vardars move much more air at same speed and noise level. If you want more airflow, get the Vardar F4-120ER, or better yet Nidec Gentle Typhoon AP-29 or AP-30 PWM


In a word, yes....


----------



## clarifiante

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> I think you would be disappointing with the Nocs. They really don't perform as well as the Vardar F4 do.
> Vardars move much more air at same speed and noise level. If you want more airflow, get the Vardar F4-120ER, or better yet Nidec Gentle Typhoon AP-29 or AP-30 PWM


the 3000 rpm noctua's are slated to run more airflow plus have higher static pressure. just curious why you say i'd be disappointed.

yeah i have the f4-120er's, apologies for leaving that detail out.

unforunately, it seems like a nigh impossible feat to get those gentle typhoons anymore. they don't seem to stock em anymore.

best i can find is the 2150rpm version at cooler guys. would that be a worth replacement for the vardars?


----------



## hht92

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Replacing the 200mm with 2x 140mm seems to always always improve performance. As you know, I had similar problem with not being able to use all mounting holes. A small round file could be used to enlarge the slot the little needed to get diagonal screws in, but that is up to you.


I will stick as it is since the fans are rock stable also i am not moving my pc a lot (only to clean it in my balcony), wish me luck so i don't have "spinning fans" inside the case







.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> In a word, yes....


.. indeed.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *clarifiante*
> 
> the 3000 rpm noctua's are slated to run more airflow plus have higher static pressure. just curious why you say i'd be disappointed.
> 
> yeah i have the f4-120er's, apologies for leaving that detail out.
> 
> unforunately, it seems like a nigh impossible feat to get those gentle typhoons anymore. they don't seem to stock em anymore.
> 
> best i can find is the 2150rpm version at cooler guys. would that be a worth replacement for the vardars?


What is 'slated' and what actually happens in use are often not the same. Geggeg has tested them all on radiator. Here are some of the results.
http://thermalbench.com/2015/06/29/ek-vardar-f4-120er-120mm-fan/3/
http://thermalbench.com/2015/03/04/noctua-nf-f12-industrialppc-3000-pwm-120mm-fan/3/


----------



## flynna3162581

i dunno what fan filter that phanteks use for the evolv itx but bloody hell its a cracking little filter.... i forget to clean my case (not on purpose) but i came to clean it the other day and the inside of my case was spotless.... even tho not much airflow for the case


----------



## clarifiante

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> .. indeed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What is 'slated' and what actually happens in use are often not the same. Geggeg has tested them all on radiator. Here are some of the results.
> http://thermalbench.com/2015/06/29/ek-vardar-f4-120er-120mm-fan/3/
> http://thermalbench.com/2015/03/04/noctua-nf-f12-industrialppc-3000-pwm-120mm-fan/3/


wow thanks for linking for this site. bloody good resource!


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *flynna3162581*
> 
> i dunno what fan filter that phanteks use for the evolv itx but bloody hell its a cracking little filter.... i forget to clean my case (not on purpose) but i came to clean it the other day and the inside of my case was spotless.... even tho not much airflow for the case


yeah those magnetic filters are the bees knees as my friend across the pond say...the primo had them on the side panels and they are great


----------



## CallMeRizzo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sexpot*
> 
> The thing that drove me away from the Enthoo Pro M was the front filter... err lack of adequate filters. How do you find the dusting with the side and bottom vents of the front panel?


I haven't had much dusting on the side vents of the panel compared to the front in the time that I've had it. I'll keep my eye on it. The acrylic panel on the other hand, is a different story.


----------



## Ironsmack

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *clarifiante*
> 
> unforunately, it seems like a nigh impossible feat to get those gentle typhoons anymore. they don't seem to stock em anymore.
> 
> best i can find is the 2150rpm version at cooler guys. would that be a worth replacement for the vardars?


Modmytoys and Dazmode carry the GT's. Although, DazMode has the 1150, 1850, 2150 version.

Not sure if modmytoys will start carrying the different rpm models anytime soon.


----------



## Jugurnot

Hey there fellow Phanteks case owners.

I am curious if I can fit an RX360 + RX240 in the Evolv ATX without much of a headache?


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jugurnot*
> 
> Hey there fellow Phanteks case owners.
> 
> I am curious if I can fit an RX360 + RX240 in the Evolv ATX without much of a headache?


If you remove the HD cage it should be no problem.


----------



## Jugurnot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> If you remove the HD cage it should be no problem.


Great all I needed to know thanks


----------



## Dave6531

Here's a custom hardline waterloop build I did for a buddy in an Evolv ATX with and EK 360 up top and an EK 240 in front.


----------



## KaffieneKing

Do you have any further pictures of the res mounting?

I tried to mount a pump/res co mbo there (albeit in the mATX version) and couldn't get it anywhere near as clean as that!


----------



## seanbarkley

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dave6531*
> 
> Here's a custom hardline waterloop build I did for a buddy in an Evolv ATX with and EK 360 up top and an EK 240 in front.


I've just had an erection.


----------



## Duke976

Change my watercooling set-up with the addition of EKXE480.
Before the XE480:


After adding the XE480 top rad and relegating the UT60 480 in the bottom.


Because i am cheap, I am still using the H140X as my pump & res combo to drive this setup











And lastly i am using EnzoTech 90degree compression fitting to hide the tube.


Full body shot of the Enthoo Primo.


----------



## KaffieneKing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Duke976*
> 
> snip/


Looks great! Overkill for CPU cooling though! Get them GPU's under too!


----------



## Duke976

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaffieneKing*
> 
> Looks great! Overkill for CPU cooling though! Get them GPU's under too!


Overkill for the cpu alone







. The reason why i am hesitating to include the MSI 980 TI in the loop is because i am thinking of selling them.


----------



## KaffieneKing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Duke976*
> 
> Overkill for the cpu alone
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . The reason why i am hesitating to include the MSI 980 TI in the loop is because i am thinking of selling them.


Fair enough, you defintely have the rad space for whatever GPU(s) will replace them!


----------



## Duke976

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaffieneKing*
> 
> Fair enough, you defintely have the rad space for whatever GPU(s) will replace them!


Yeah, i cant wait to wc whatever vid that will go there.


----------



## paskowitz

Any word when the Entho Evolv ATX w/ tempered glass is going to hit store shelves?


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dave6531*
> 
> Here's a custom hardline waterloop build I did for a buddy in an Evolv ATX with and EK 360 up top and an EK 240 in front.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


That is a sick build, so cool.


----------



## flynna3162581

how did u get the carbon on the tubing ?? looks sick


----------



## ssgtnubb

That is sleeve over the tubing is all.


----------



## flynna3162581

looks sick


----------



## Faster_is_better

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Duke976*
> 
> Change my watercooling set-up with the addition of EKXE480.
> Before the XE480:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After adding the XE480 top rad and relegating the UT60 480 in the bottom.
> 
> 
> Because i am cheap, I am still using the H140X as my pump & res combo to drive this setup
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And lastly i am using EnzoTech 90degree compression fitting to hide the tube.
> 
> 
> 
> Full body shot of the Enthoo Primo.


All these people who have "moved on from soft tubing"... how can they say those tubing runs aren't beautiful? Love that wavy layout on the CPU and sneaky tubing down to the PSU area.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Faster_is_better*
> 
> All these people who have "moved on from soft tubing"... how can they say those tubing runs aren't beautiful? Love that wavy layout on the CPU and sneaky tubing down to the PSU area.


IMO, a well done soft tubing setup is every bit as nice looking as hard tubing. And soft tubing is certainly more maintenance/component change friendly. Personally, I have absolutely no plans of "moving on".


----------



## Duke976

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Faster_is_better*
> 
> All these people who have "moved on from soft tubing"... how can they say those tubing runs aren't beautiful? Love that wavy layout on the CPU and sneaky tubing down to the PSU area.


Thank you for appreciating my build.

I am in the process of painting the heat spreader to either black or red to match the build color. I changed my ram to black temporarily to see how it blends inside. Tidy up some loose cables as well. I am off to buy some 30mm screws so i can finally put the bottom rad in P/P config so it wont look empty with that all white space showing.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> IMO, a well done soft tubing setup is every bit as nice looking as hard tubing. And soft tubing is certainly more maintenance/component change friendly. Personally, I have absolutely no plans of "moving on".


the problem I have with hard tubing I'd you are pretty much required to have a fill and drain port unless you get really creative because if not you soak stuff to drain the loop...not a big fan of that or having 200 dollars in fittings to drain and fill lol. With my soft tubing I can get the tube off and to a container every time no spillage...

Also say you plumb it all in then your video card came slightly unseated when you tightened the compression rings...note either you can get it to sit right or you could even end up with a leak if the angle is bad...but I love the look of hardline...I just don't see a future in it for me


----------



## Scrimstar

Shouldn't a Phanteks Enthoo Luxe fit a h320x2 Prestige on top? This guy said it didn't, and I wonder if anyone else has experience

http://www.amazon.com/gp/review/R26DRO2XE4GJ8I?ref_=glimp_1rv_cl

http://www.amazon.com/gp/review/R17T7XZMPN5DKK?ref_=glimp_1rv_cl

heres a video with 360 loop on top


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scrimstar*
> 
> Shouldn't a Phanteks Enthoo Luxe fit a h320x2 Prestige on top? This guy said it didn't, and I wonder if anyone else has experience
> 
> http://www.amazon.com/gp/review/R26DRO2XE4GJ8I?ref_=glimp_1rv_cl
> 
> http://www.amazon.com/gp/review/R17T7XZMPN5DKK?ref_=glimp_1rv_cl
> 
> heres a video with 360 loop on top


Quote:


> Be warned that the H320 will not fit in the Phanteks Enthoo case *without most of it being stuffed inside the drive bay, hiding more than half of the reservoir.*


It fits, but the res winds up in the drive bay. The H240-X looks much nicer in the Luxe.


----------



## bmt22033

I'm about to build a new system and I've settled on the Phanteks Evolv ATX case. I'll be using the following hardware:

Asus Maximus VIII Hero Alpha
i7-6700K
Swiftech H240 X2 Prestige
Corsair Vengeance LPX DDR4
Asus Strix GTX 980Ti
Samsung Pro 950
Samsung Pro 850
4TB HDD
EVGA P2 850w PSU

In theory, the air should flow like this:



Phanteks quotes the following specs on the stock PH-F140SP fans:

Speed (rpm) 1200 ±250 rpm
Max Airflow 82.1 CFM
Static Pressure 1.33mm H2O
Acoustical Noise 19dB

I can't seem to find the exact model of NB eLoop fan that the H240 X2 Prestige uses but Swiftech claims the following on their site:

Speed range PWM adjustable 500 ~ 1800 RPM
Airflow < 123 CFM
Static pressure < 2.35 mmH₂O
Noise level < 36.4 dB/A

I realize that these numbers don't necessarily represent "real world" performance but I'm wondering if I would be better served by replacing the stock case fans with something else? If so, what? Thanks for your advice!


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bmt22033*
> 
> I'm about to build a new system and I've settled on the Phanteks Evolv ATX case. I'll be using the following hardware:
> 
> Asus Maximus VIII Hero Alpha
> i7-6700K
> Swiftech H240 X2 Prestige
> Corsair Vengeance LPX DDR4
> Asus Strix GTX 980Ti
> Samsung Pro 950
> Samsung Pro 850
> 4TB HDD
> EVGA P2 850w PSU
> 
> In theory, the air should flow like this:
> 
> 
> 
> Phanteks quotes the following specs on the stock PH-F140SP fans:
> 
> Speed (rpm) 1200 ±250 rpm
> Max Airflow 82.1 CFM
> Static Pressure 1.33mm H2O
> Acoustical Noise 19dB
> 
> I can't seem to find the exact model of NB eLoop fan that the H240 X2 Prestige uses but Swiftech claims the following on their site:
> 
> Speed range PWM adjustable 500 ~ 1800 RPM
> Airflow < 123 CFM
> Static pressure < 2.35 mmH₂O
> Noise level < 36.4 dB/A
> 
> I realize that these numbers don't necessarily represent "real world" performance but I'm wondering if I would be better served by replacing the stock case fans with something else? If so, what? Thanks for your advice!


Far more important than changing the intake fans is making sure that you seal all of the openings in the radiator mount. Air seeks the path of least resistance, the Evolv ATX top exhaust is very restrictive, so leaving the big hole in front of the radiator open causes a bit of a mess. The radiator exhaust will simply go forward (the path of least resistance), only to be sucked right back into the radiator to be warmed further....lather, rinse, repeat endlessly. This is a known issue with the Evolve ATX, but thankfully one that can be taken care of in ~5 minutes.

As far as replacing the stock intakes, you ideally want more intake than exhaust. If the specs on the Swiftech site are correct, you are going to need 250CFM+ on the intake. You could do something along the lines of three 120mm 2150 rpm GTs or Noctua iPPC 3000, or a pair of 140mm iPPC 3000. Keep in mind that you will have a lot of air movement, and will have to do some work with the fan curves to keep the noise in check and intake greater than exhaust.


----------



## OneFunGenesis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> the Evolv ATX top exhaust is very restrictive, so leaving the big hole in front of the radiator open causes a bit of a mess.t.


Here is my question about this. Can one just put a static pressure 140MM fan in the empty hole to help push the air out of the top. My plan is to get this case as well and run a similar set-up to the above but change the rear fan into an intake (also has 120mm rad there).

Just might be of some help to someone.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneFunGenesis*
> 
> Here is my question about this. Can one just put a static pressure 140MM fan in the empty hole to help push the air out of the top. My plan is to get this case as well and run a similar set-up to the above but change the rear fan into an intake (also has 120mm rad there).
> 
> Just might be of some help to someone.


One could......but is absolutely the wrong thing to do for three reasons:

1. You have a restrictive exhaust, with your rad fans attempting to exhaust air. Adding more air to a restrictive situation doesn't help, it makes it more restrictive for the rad fans. It's like saying you are going to make a slow running drain better by adding more water to the sink - you just wind up with deeper water in the sink.
2. The radiator fans want to bulk of the cool air coming from the intakes. In your scenario they will be fighting this extra exhaust fan for free flowing cool air, causing a negative pressure situation. The Evolv ATX starts pulling in in through the rear PCI covers when you it gets into negative pressure and you wind up with crazy amounts of dust in the case with your airflow being a mess.
3. Anything that says "Static Pressure Fan" is likely a piece of junk to begin with. There isn't a single top tier fan with good static pressure that says this on the box. This is a marketing gimmick for lousy fans.

And the rear fan as an intake? With a rad on it? Oh, boy.....so, disrupt the airflow of the case completely....with warmed air to feed your top rad?


----------



## OneFunGenesis

Thanks for the reply. I love the sink analogy. Got a good laugh out of it.

to the static pressure fan, I am talking something like an e-loop or Corsair SP140 not some knock off SP fan lol.

I am trying to create positive pressure like most are so I agree that the top free flowing fan is probably not the best solution to this problem. Actually, putting a 360mm rad up there might be the best solution or moving my 120 into the empty area (that would look stupid though). As to disrupting the case airflow with a rear intake...that would provide positive pressure (essentially) as well as feed the most fresh air to the 240 rad up top (fresh enough). Either way, warmer air is going to hit the top rad thanks to VRM's and other warm components in the system so I am not worried about 1 or 2*c if that makes sense?


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneFunGenesis*
> 
> Thanks for the reply. I love the sink analogy. Got a good laugh out of it.
> 
> to the static pressure fan, I am talking something like an e-loop or Corsair SP140 not some knock off SP fan lol.
> 
> I am trying to create positive pressure like most are so I agree that the top free flowing fan is probably not the best solution to this problem. Actually, putting a 360mm rad up there might be the best solution or moving my 120 into the empty area (that would look stupid though). As to disrupting the case airflow with a rear intake...that would provide positive pressure (essentially) as well as feed the most fresh air to the 240 rad up top (fresh enough). Either way, warmer air is going to hit the top rad thanks to VRM's and other warm components in the system so I am not worried about 1 or 2*c if that makes sense?


The eLoops don't say "Static Pressure Fan" on them - as i said, none of the top tier fans do. Only *subpar* fans use that wording as a marketing gimmick. In other words, eLoop and SP140.....one of these things is not like the other......saying "something like an eLoop or Corsair SP140" is very similar to saying "something like a VVS1 diamond or a bottle cap picked from the trash". Ok, maybe not _that_ bad, but they are two fans that really don't belong in the same conversation. One is a fantastic, top tier fan....the other has color rings (sorry, really no other good attribute I can think of).

If the rear exhaust is working correctly, it will be getting rid of the small amount of heat coming off your VRMs naturally due to proper airflow - and it will be very, very little heat to begin with. On the other hand, using the rear as an intake on the rad will be feeding far, far more heat into your case than your VRM could ever produce. And it will totally mess with the airflow of a case that already is battling restriction issues.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneFunGenesis*
> 
> Here is my question about this. Can one just put a static pressure 140MM fan in the empty hole to help push the air out of the top. My plan is to get this case as well and run a similar set-up to the above but change the rear fan into an intake (also has 120mm rad there).
> 
> Just might be of some help to someone.


You could, but it would be pushing as much air into the top as it would be pushing out.


----------



## bmt22033

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Far more important than changing the intake fans is making sure that you seal all of the openings in the radiator mount. Air seeks the path of least resistance, the Evolv ATX top exhaust is very restrictive, so leaving the big hole in front of the radiator open causes a bit of a mess. The radiator exhaust will simply go forward (the path of least resistance), only to be sucked right back into the radiator to be warmed further....lather, rinse, repeat endlessly. This is a known issue with the Evolve ATX, but thankfully one that can be taken care of in ~5 minutes.
> 
> As far as replacing the stock intakes, you ideally want more intake than exhaust. If the specs on the Swiftech site are correct, you are going to need 250CFM+ on the intake. You could do something along the lines of three 120mm 2150 rpm GTs or Noctua iPPC 3000, or a pair of 140mm iPPC 3000. Keep in mind that you will have a lot of air movement, and will have to do some work with the fan curves to keep the noise in check and intake greater than exhaust.


Thanks Ciarlatanno. I figured you or Doyll would be along soon with all the info.







What's the best way to seal the openings around the radiator? You mentioned it could be done in 5 minutes so I assume it's not too complicated?

Also, re: fans, any idea how realistic the Swiftech numbers may or may not be on whatever version of the eLoop they're using? I'm not opposed to buying replacement fans for the case if they're going to make a noticeable difference in temps. I've read good things about the iPPC 3000 but I'm a little nervous about how loud they might be. My current system has 7 fans in it and over the years, I've slowly grown to appreciate having a much more quiet system.


----------



## Scrimstar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> It fits, but the res winds up in the drive bay. The H240-X looks much nicer in the Luxe.


That won't affect performance will it? 240 x2 prestige is sold out in most places...









i planned to get the 320 x2 prestige bc its quieter


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bmt22033*
> 
> Thanks Ciarlatanno. I figured you or Doyll would be along soon with all the info.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What's the best way to seal the openings around the radiator? You mentioned it could be done in 5 minutes so I assume it's not too complicated?
> 
> Also, re: fans, any idea how realistic the Swiftech numbers may or may not be on whatever version of the eLoop they're using? I'm not opposed to buying replacement fans for the case if they're going to make a noticeable difference in temps. I've read good things about the iPPC 3000 but I'm a little nervous about how loud they might be. My current system has 7 fans in it and over the years, I've slowly grown to appreciate having a much more quiet system.


If you are doing the H240-X2, you wind up with a small area in front of it that is open. Something like this takes care of it with just a cut-to-fit and stick - http://www.amazon.com/3M-08840-Sound-Deadening-1-pad/dp/B005RNGRMU/

I'm just not sure about the fans. I like quiet, also, and wouldn't dream of using the iPPC 3000 (tried the 2000 and hated the sound at low rpm). The key is using a fan that can move the air you need at high speeds, but is quiet at low speeds, and getting the fan curves set up. I would try the factory fans first, and tame the fan curve on the Swiftech to lag behind the intakes except under extreme loads. That may work out very well, and costs you nothing to try.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scrimstar*
> 
> That won't affect performance will it? 240 x2 prestige is sold out in most places...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i planned to get the 320 x2 prestige bc its quieter


The H240-X2 shows good stock at PPC - http://www.performance-pcs.com/complete-kits/swiftech-h240-x2-prestige-aio-cpu-liquid-cooling-kit.html

Having the res in the drive bay doesn't affect performance in any way. the difference in performance between the 320 and 240 Prestige is nothing, but I really don't know the difference in terms of noise.


----------



## bmt22033

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> If you are doing the H240-X2, you wind up with a small area in front of it that is open. Something like this takes care of it with just a cut-to-fit and stick - http://www.amazon.com/3M-08840-Sound-Deadening-1-pad/dp/B005RNGRMU/
> 
> I'm just not sure about the fans. I like quiet, also, and wouldn't dream of using the iPPC 3000 (tried the 2000 and hated the sound at low rpm). The key is using a fan that can move the air you need at high speeds, but is quiet at low speeds, and getting the fan curves set up. I would try the factory fans first, and tame the fan curve on the Swiftech to lag behind the intakes except under extreme loads. That may work out very well, and costs you nothing to try.


Thanks again. I really appreciate all the info!


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bmt22033*
> 
> Thanks again. I really appreciate all the info!


I should have added, put something on the sticky side large enough to cover the hole. Plastic wrap works well and gives you an all black finish.


----------



## Otterfluff

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bmt22033*
> 
> Phanteks quotes the following specs on the stock PH-F140SP fans:
> 
> Speed (rpm) 1200 ±250 rpm
> Max Airflow 82.1 CFM
> Static Pressure 1.33mm H2O
> Acoustical Noise 19dB
> 
> I can't seem to find the exact model of NB eLoop fan that the H240 X2 Prestige uses but Swiftech claims the following on their site:
> 
> Speed range PWM adjustable 500 ~ 1800 RPM
> Airflow < 123 CFM
> Static pressure < 2.35 mmH₂O
> Noise level < 36.4 dB/A
> 
> I realize that these numbers don't necessarily represent "real world" performance but I'm wondering if I would be better served by replacing the stock case fans with something else? If so, what? Thanks for your advice!


Phanteks make the best 140mm fans on the market with regards to both cfm/noise and performance on a radiator/noise. I have 20 noctua 3000rpm IPpc fans and 18 phanteks140sp fans on radiators and id trade all my noctua fans for replacment phanteks ones in a heartbeat. You really shouldent be replacing those, if anything I would be buying additional 140sp fans if you need them.

Phanteks also have 5 year warrenty on their fans and 150,000 hours operating expected life span"aprox tripple lifespan of most 140mm fans". Thats better than all other fan manufacturers except noctua which is a six year warenty.


----------



## Ironsmack

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Otterfluff*
> 
> Phanteks make the best 140mm fans on the market with regards to both cfm/noise and performance on a radiator/noise. I have 20 noctua 3000rpm IPpc fans and 18 phanteks140sp fans on radiators and id trade all my noctua fans for replacment phanteks ones in a heartbeat. You really shouldent be replacing those, if anything I would be buying additional 140sp fans if you need them.
> 
> Phanteks also have 5 year warrenty on their fans and 150,000 hours operating expected life span"aprox tripple lifespan of most 140mm fans". Thats better than all other fan manufacturers except noctua which is a six year warenty.


So the Noctua's sounds horrible at the same speed as the Phanteks 1600 RPM's?

Or were you running both fans on the highest speed?


----------



## derek0309hk

To fellow EVOLV ATX owners, I would really appreciate if you can share you experience to my questions.

I noticed the fans that come with the case are F140SP fans, is there a need to switch out the fans at the front intake for some AF fans from Noctua for example? I will be running 2x290 and a overclocked 3930k with the Phanteks PC-TH14PE, all on air.

It seems like it would be best to not put any fans on the top of the case, is that correct?

Also would there be a need to switch out the fans that came with the PC-TH14PE cooler?

Thank you so much for your time and help!


----------



## Otterfluff

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ironsmack*
> 
> So the Noctua's sounds horrible at the same speed as the Phanteks 1600 RPM's?
> 
> Or were you running both fans on the highest speed?


This is ripped from my build log which you can find here: http://forums.overclockers.com.au/showthread.php?t=1173138


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Fans

I spent months agonizing over 140mm fans and what was the better option and in the end I went out and purchased the whole phantakes lineup and several noctua's to test them against each other.

Fans I tested:
Phanteks 140SP led x2
Phanteks 140MP x2
Phanteks 140XP x2
Noctura NF-A14 1500rpm 140mm pwm "got this just to test how the it compares to the IPPC fan and how it scales at the lower rpm levels"
Noctua NF-A14 Industrial PPC 140mm 3000RPM PWM

My testing was done using:
Zalman ZM-MFC3 fan controller
PC Case Mod 3 Pin to 4 Pin PWM Micro Fan Variable Speed Controller
Phobya PWM 8x 4Pin Splitter x2

I had the fans running on the desk and later attaching them to a Alphacool 280mm XT-45 radiator ontop of the Ethnoo Primo Shoud in the bottom with a demi flex filter underneath. Case side was not attached.

Starting with the Noctura NF-A14 1500 against the IPPC 3000rpm fans to see if at the same rpm they produced the same noise and push. I was pleasantly surprised that running both of them at speeds of 1000,1200,1300,1500 rpm I could not tell the difference between the two fans. They made the exact same hum up close and far away. They also pushed the same amount of air and I spent a good 30 minutes trying to pick any differences I could hear or feel. I honestly feel these are the exact same fans. The blades and veins in the frame are identical. The IPPC just has the fibrerglass blades for the higher rotations.

Something that was unexpected was that the Zalman Fan controller was not able to start the IPPC 3000 rpm fans on it's pwm header. The controller starts with too small a voltage/signal and then increases it slowly until it gets to it's target rpm. To get the fans started I had to use the Case Mod 3 Pin to 4 Pin PWM Controller connected to the fan controller 3 pin connector and then connected to a Phobya PWM 8x 4Pin Splitter. This allowed me to monitor the rpm through the Zalman controller and adjust the pwm signal via the Case Mod Controller and the Phobia Hub would maintain a constant voltage. This worked like a charm and I was able to start the Noctua IPPC fans and run them at speeds as little as 500rpm which is mighty impressive.

This is what the Case Mod 3 Pin to 4 Pin PWM looks like, Im using a ceramic mini screwdriver to adjust the variable pot on it. I have accidentally shorted my cpu_opt when a metal mini screwdriver shorted on the metal fan connectors of this pwm adjuster. Luckily the cpu_opt on my mainboard is a fake and can not do pwm signals, only voltage control No loss there really! I would of been pissed if it did the CPU fan header as that is the only real pwm header on my mainboard.

Phanteks 140SP led vs the 140XP

Next comparing the Phanteks fans against their siblings. First up was the 140SP led vs the 140XP. The fans not only look identical they perform identically with the exact same rpm to noise which was tested at 800rpm which was silent, 1000 rpm which was quiet, 1200 was quiet but louder, and these fans can do 1300 rpm which is getting a tad loud but not unpleasant. I really dont see the point in buying the XP version unless you want to get the QSA adapter, fan extension cable and the Anti-Vibration Compensators. The 140sp and led version are a much better bargain and the led version has separate led connectors so you can always choose to turn the colours off. The Phanteks 140XP and 140SP are basically the same fan but with different options.

Phanteks 140mp vs 140SP/XP

Next up the 140mp fans and the first thing I noticed was that these fans were alot louder and moved less air than the XP/SP models at maximun rpm of 1600. Their own specs say they do 1.62mm H20 which compared to the XP/SP which supposedly do 1.3/1.5 "I mean really, it's the same fan? considering the SP/XP are identical fans I would not believe this for a second, so lets say they are both 1.3mm H20" This left me a bit worried because if I scale down the 140mp fan to the same noise level as the XP/SP the fan is running at the same 1300 rpm as sp/xp while it is moving considerably less air than it's max rpm. I can only imagine that this takes a hit on the static pressure as well, let alone that it was pushing less air at 1600rpm let alone in a noise comparison of 1300 rpm to the XP/SP.

Phanteks 140MP against the Noctua IPPC 3000 rpm

Noise wise these two fans do not have the same noise level to rpm with the noctua being louder at the same speed, however I noticed the Noctua are pushing a noticeable amount more air and have a stronger flow. When the fans are operating at identical noise levels the rpm is around:

1000rpm both noctua IPPC and 140MP are same noise
1200rpm noctua IPPC and 1300rpm for the 140MP
1500rpm noctua IPPC and 1600rpm for the 140mp

They are fairly similar performance wise but the noctura is defiantly stronger at the matching noise leve, which is not a good sign as i am certain the noctura is going to whip the 140mp with regards to static pressure. The 1500rpm Noctura has static pressure of 2.08mm H20 and at 1200rpm it lowers to 1.51mm H20. I find it hard to believe the 140mp will fare well against the noctura when the static pressure is equal or less for the 140mp and the airflow is considerably worse.

Phanteks 140XP/SP against the Noctua A14 IPPC 3000rpm

At the same noise level they both run at the same rpm this is what I found.

1000rpm they are both quiet but the noctua is more of a hum while the phanteks is more like a air movement sound.
1200 rpm they are both quiet and you can hear them.
1300 rpm they are loud but pleasant, noctua has a more pronounced hum while the phanteks is more like the movement of turblent air.

At each comparable noise level the phanteks is moving considerably more air than the noctua.

Restrictive Radiator testing

I then went to testing fans on the Primo's shroud with the 280mm xt45 rad and DEMCI Flex filter underneath the shroud attached to the case. I kept the side panel off. I figured this was a better real world high resistance test especially because blowing through medical grade dust filters is not a easy thing. The first thing I noticed is that the fans are all alot quieter under a load than they are running on the desk. Especially the noctua's hum. They all seem to hum whine or whosh less when performing in push/pull and through a resistive setup.

Phanteks 140XP/SP vs the A140 IPPC fans on rad + dust filter

They maintained their noise to rpm sound sync like in the first tests for all the different rpm levels however what was surprising was that both setups moved the same amount of air at the same rpm.

This is really interesting because for the quiet fan range that makes the phantkes 140XP/SP in the same league as the Noctua's in a resistant radiator setup. I was very impressed with this, someone could easily do a full radiator setup for considerably cheaper and avoid using Noctua fans and not worry about if the static pressure was more important. I imagine what is happening is that the noctua's handle the setup well and have little trouble moving the air through the rad but the 140mp has a much better cfm and half decent static pressure so when it gets to work in a resistive radiator/dust filter it sacrifices some of it's cfm flow but still manages to match the noctua at the same noise to performance level.

Phanteks 140mp to the 140XP/SP on rad + dust filter

The rpm level to noise ratio was maintained from the first test but I found that the 140MP was pushing a little less air than the 140XP/SP fans at the same noise levels. It was a little less but the fan can be ramped up to 1600rpm higher but it's going to be much louder than the 140XP/SP at those levels. The 140mp is moving a reasonable level of air but I find it damning that it's cheaper 140sp is doing a better job pushing air through a radiator. Overall I am disappointed with this as the XP/SP siblings appear to be a better choice, the 140sp at a lower price no less. The SP also has optional led's.

Phanteks 140mp to the Noctua A14 IPPC 3000k on rad + dust filter

The rpm to noise levels were the same as the first test but the noctua is definitely pushing more air through the rad/dust filter in push/pull while operating at the same noise level.

Conclusions

The phanteks XP/SP fans are a excellent choice to use in a radiator setup. Quiet, cheaper and optional led's they really impressed me. The 140mp I would not get over the 140sp which is cheaper
or the 140XP which comes with additional kit addons that the 140mp dose not come with.

The 140sp is cheaper than the 140XP but the XP has extra cables, low noise adapter, vibration rubber mounts and pwm. It's more about if you want those extra's + pwm. Both are the exact same fan and I do not think they run fast enough to warrant the pwm, but pwm control is nice just to jack 20 fans into a hub for one knob control on a fan controller.

The A140 IPPC 3000k Noctua performs well on a radiator especially a restrictive setup ie fat rad + dust filter. They cost as much as the radiators you install to setup in push/pull. They are quiet at lower rpm's. I can see them being beaten by the phanteks 140XP/SP if you stuck them in a non restrictive radiator setup like at the top of the Primo case without a dust filter running as a exhaust. Although you can really ramp up the noctua IPPC rpm for overclock testing so long as you wear hearing protection.



The 1600rpm fan you are talking about is the same as the 140MP fan which I reviewed. So use that as a comparison. I found in my testing that the fan was underwhelming when compared to the 140sp/XP and the Noctua IPPC so I would not recommend getting it.


----------



## Otterfluff

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derek0309hk*
> 
> To fellow EVOLV ATX owners, I would really appreciate if you can share you experience to my questions.
> 
> I noticed the fans that come with the case are F140SP fans, is there a need to switch out the fans at the front intake for some AF fans from Noctua for example? I will be running 2x290 and a overclocked 3930k with the Phanteks PC-TH14PE, all on air.
> 
> It seems like it would be best to not put any fans on the top of the case, is that correct?
> 
> Also would there be a need to switch out the fans that came with the PC-TH14PE cooler?
> 
> Thank you so much for your time and help!


The F140SP fans are amazing and you really dont want to replace them with anything. Read my last post for a comparison with the Noctura IPPC fans. The F140SP same as the 140sp just it's black.

The fans that come with the PC-TH14PE are called 140HP fan which is basically a pwm fan that is the same as the 140XP only it has 120mm mounts. They are renowned as one of the best cpu heatsink fans and people often switch out the Noctua fans on a D-14 or D-15 heatsink and add on the 140HP for better and quieter performance.


----------



## ITAngel

What is the best setup on an Enthoo Pro for two 240mm rads, front and top or button and top?


----------



## bmt22033

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Otterfluff*
> 
> Phanteks make the best 140mm fans on the market with regards to both cfm/noise and performance on a radiator/noise. I have 20 noctua 3000rpm IPpc fans and 18 phanteks140sp fans on radiators and id trade all my noctua fans for replacment phanteks ones in a heartbeat. You really shouldent be replacing those, if anything I would be buying additional 140sp fans if you need them.
> 
> Phanteks also have 5 year warrenty on their fans and 150,000 hours operating expected life span"aprox tripple lifespan of most 140mm fans". Thats better than all other fan manufacturers except noctua which is a six year warenty.


Thanks for the info, Otterfluff. I appreciate it.


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Otterfluff*
> 
> Phanteks make the best 140mm fans on the market with regards to both cfm/noise and performance on a radiator/noise. I have 20 noctua 3000rpm IPpc fans and 18 phanteks140sp fans on radiators and id trade all my noctua fans for replacment phanteks ones in a heartbeat. You really shouldent be replacing those, if anything I would be buying additional 140sp fans if you need them.
> 
> Phanteks also have 5 year warrenty on their fans and 150,000 hours operating expected life span"aprox tripple lifespan of most 140mm fans". Thats better than all other fan manufacturers except noctua which is a six year warenty.


Not entirelly true... the phanteks fans perform better than the Noctua A14 fans for sure ( my own tests show that very clearly), but the P14 fans should outperform the Phanteks fans. Then there is the fact that fans such as the Eloop 14cm and the EK Vardar 14cm outperform that again. Not to rain on your parade, but the Phateks fans are not the end all be all fans. They are very good for sure and for the price there's not exactly many competitors, but There are better fans at a higher price point.

With that in mind... should you replace the fans that come with the case? Unless you have better fans laying around then no, and really since they are just exhaust/intake fans then there really is no need to replace them other than aesthetics.


----------



## derek0309hk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Otterfluff*
> 
> The F140SP fans are amazing and you really dont want to replace them with anything. Read my last post for a comparison with the Noctura IPPC fans. The F140SP same as the 140sp just it's black.
> 
> The fans that come with the PC-TH14PE are called 140HP fan which is basically a pwm fan that is the same as the 140XP only it has 120mm mounts. They are renowned as one of the best cpu heatsink fans and people often switch out the Noctua fans on a D-14 or D-15 heatsink and add on the 140HP for better and quieter performance.


Thank you so much! So I will be keeping all the fans that come with it then. And would you agree that it is the best to not put any fans on the top of the EVOLV ATX if you happened to be using this case? Thanks again!


----------



## derek0309hk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> Not entirelly true... the phanteks fans perform better than the Noctua A14 fans for sure ( my own tests show that very clearly), but the P14 fans should outperform the Phanteks fans. Then there is the fact that fans such as the Eloop 14cm and the EK Vardar 14cm outperform that again. Not to rain on your parade, but the Phateks fans are not the end all be all fans. They are very good for sure and for the price there's not exactly many competitors, but There are better fans at a higher price point.
> 
> With that in mind... should you replace the fans that come with the case? Unless you have better fans laying around then no, and really since they are just exhaust/intake fans then there really is no need to replace them other than aesthetics.


Thank you! I really appreciate your input, what about the top of the case? It is the best to not put any case on the top? Thanks!


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derek0309hk*
> 
> Thank you! I really appreciate your input, what about the top of the case? It is the best to not put any case on the top? Thanks!


I doubt you will really need to do so, the Evolv ATX is fairly restrictive so I'm not sure how much it would help by putting fans in the top. I don't have the case so I can say for sure of course and there are people in this forum with far better input in the regard to your specific case.

My suggestion would be to try to run it in stock config to start with, log the temps in a benchmark (30min-1hour or so should help temps stabilize). Then just start toying around with fan positions and so on, it's a lot of work if you really want to optimize your flow. So really it's all about if you are OK with half decent flow vs optimized.

In regards to the fans though... no need to swap them out. If you should swap out anything then maybe putting some vardars on the CPU cooler would give the best result.


----------



## Otterfluff

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> Not entirelly true... the phanteks fans perform better than the Noctua A14 fans for sure ( my own tests show that very clearly), but the P14 fans should outperform the Phanteks fans. Then there is the fact that fans such as the Eloop 14cm and the EK Vardar 14cm outperform that again. Not to rain on your parade, but the Phateks fans are not the end all be all fans. They are very good for sure and for the price there's not exactly many competitors, but There are better fans at a higher price point.
> 
> With that in mind... should you replace the fans that come with the case? Unless you have better fans laying around then no, and really since they are just exhaust/intake fans then there really is no need to replace them other than aesthetics.


When I did this review I did not have EK Vardars in 140mm or Eloops because they just weren't out on the market yet. This is a older review and is a comparison between phanteks and noctua only.

Although I am pretty sure the Phanteks fans would beat the EK Vadars cfm/noise ratio wise. The Vadars are very similar to noctua only with a cheaper build quality. The Eloops I have no idea what they are like.


----------



## Otterfluff

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derek0309hk*
> 
> Thank you! I really appreciate your input, what about the top of the case? It is the best to not put any case on the top? Thanks!


You want a positive air pressure in your case "or at least make sure it's not negative" to make sure the dust filter works correctly so I would not recommend more exhausts than intake fans. The limit for intake fans is two on the front of the case I think? It looks like it can almost squeeze three in the front but on the data sheets it saids it can only fit two. Anyone tried to squeeze in a third 140mm fan in the front of the Evolve atx?

So I would not exceed two exhaust fans, you could put one in the back and one in the top or just have two in the top section. I like the idea of one in the back and one above the cpu heat-sink.


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Otterfluff*
> 
> When I did this review I did not have EK Vardars in 140mm or Eloops because they just weren't out on the market yet. This is a older review and is a comparison between phanteks and noctua only.
> 
> Although I am pretty sure the Phanteks fans would beat the EK Vadars cfm/noise ratio wise. The Vadars are very similar to noctua only with a cheaper build quality. The Eloops I have no idea what they are like.


As far as I can see they perform better than the A14's, especially when static pressure is an issue. If you just want high CFM you can get away with any fan optimized for air flow. Fans like the Vardars and the eloops really start to shine when the restriction is high, just like when placed on a heatsink or in front of a very restrictive fan grill.

My point wasn't to discredit your tests or even your post for that matter, it's more about just reminding the masses that you can always get better equipment if you are willing to pay for it. At a certain point though the price vs performance just doesn't make it worth it. This would be where I really think the Phanteks fans shine. Especially since they come with all of their cases, they perform very well at a low noise level so for the most part there is really no need to change them out (and due to the price point they are a decent purchase for themselves as well), the build quality is also excellent. That doesn't mean _"The F140SP fans are amazing and you really dont want to replace them with anything"_, they really are amazing fans, but there are other fans that would do just as good a job as them and fans that perform beyond them as well.

Simply put: If they came with your case, you really don't need to swap them out unless you are opting for higher RPM fans. If you are buying fans for use on a radiator of heat-sink... there are better alternatives.


----------



## derek0309hk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Otterfluff*
> 
> You want a positive air pressure in your case "or at least make sure it's not negative" to make sure the dust filter works correctly so I would not recommend more exhausts than intake fans. The limit for intake fans is two on the front of the case I think? It looks like it can almost squeeze three in the front but on the data sheets it saids it can only fit two. Anyone tried to squeeze in a third 140mm fan in the front of the Evolve atx?
> 
> So I would not exceed two exhaust fans, you could put one in the back and one in the top or just have two in the top section. I like the idea of one in the back and one above the cpu heat-sink.


The front can either fit 3x120s or 2x140s, in that case I think I will just keep the setup that came with the case at first. Thanks!


----------



## Seid Dark

I have a question about Evolv ATX. Can I mount 280mm radiator to the front and still use the bottom hard drive cages? That's kind of a deal breaker, I cannot afford to replace my mechanical drives with SSDs.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seid Dark*
> 
> I have a question about Evolv ATX. Can I mount 280mm radiator to the front and still use the bottom hard drive cages? That's kind of a deal breaker, I cannot afford to replace my mechanical drives with SSDs.


Yes, not a problem.


----------



## Seid Dark

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Yes, not a problem.


Thanks, good to know. I already have a custom loop in Primo but I want to move on to something smaller, Evolv ATX seems like a good choice. I plan on having 280 rads on top and front.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seid Dark*
> 
> Thanks, good to know. I already have a custom loop in Primo but I want to move on to something smaller, Evolv ATX seems like a good choice. I plan on having 280 rads on top and front.


With a pair of 280mm, keep in mind that you will only have ~70-80mm of clearance to work with at the top of the front mounted rad. A 30mm thick rad will work with no issue, but if you are trying to do a 60mm rad in push/pull, it may not clear the top mounted 280.


----------



## Seid Dark

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> With a pair of 280mm, keep in mind that you will only have ~70-80mm of clearance to work with at the top of the front mounted rad. A 30mm thick rad will work with no issue, but if you are trying to do a 60mm rad in push/pull, it may not clear the top mounted 280.


How about two 45mm ones, both with push only? My present setup at Primo is like this: Alphacool XT45 420 and 280 at the top and bottom pushing in and a single fan at the back exhausting. Positive pressure has kept my rig pretty dust free and temps are fine. I hope to only replace 420 rad and keep everything else the same.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seid Dark*
> 
> How about two 45mm ones, both with push only? My present setup at Primo is like this: Alphacool XT45 420 and 280 at the top and bottom pushing in and a single fan at the back exhausting. Positive pressure has kept my rig pretty dust free and temps are fine. I hope to only replace 420 rad and keep everything else the same.


That will fit with no issue at all.


----------



## Seid Dark

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> That will fit with no issue at all.


Nice, thanks again for the help. What do you think, would using the top position as intake help with the known issue of restrictive top panel? From cooling performance standpoint it doesn't make any sense to downgrade from Primo, but I love the looks of Evolv.


----------



## flynna3162581

any one got any more phanteks itx watercooled build's on show ?? really want to do mine but not so sure if i have the room for it ... seem one were the res is stuck in the front but looks a bit chit.... also saw the one with the thick ass tubing and res but heard that was a magicool one and theren ot that good


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *flynna3162581*
> 
> any one got any more phanteks itx watercooled build's on show ?? really want to do mine but not so sure if i have the room for it ... seem one were the res is stuck in the front but looks a bit chit.... also saw the one with the thick ass tubing and res but heard that was a magicool one and theren ot that good


----------



## flynna3162581

rfarmer why put an extra rad when that swiftech is an all in one expandable cooler..... no need for a extra rad


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *flynna3162581*
> 
> rfarmer why put an extra rad when that swiftech is an all in one expandable cooler..... no need for a extra rad


Because I added a gpu block.


----------



## flynna3162581

you dont need 2 radiators for this for a gpu block as well ... i guess u have not done your homework on this one


----------



## flynna3162581

one that elric from TOT built LAST YEAR


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *flynna3162581*
> 
> 
> 
> one that elric from TOT built LAST YEAR


That looks good, reason I went with the soft tubing is it allows me to pull out the radiator bracket and access the fill port without taking anything apart.


----------



## doyll

I use a lot of different fan and have found Phanteks fans to be some of the best .. except for PH-F200SP and PH-F140MP. They are as good as other top fans like Thermalright TY-147A, TY-143, NF-A15, NF-A14
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> As far as I can see they perform better than the A14's, especially when static pressure is an issue. If you just want high CFM you can get away with any fan optimized for air flow. Fans like the Vardars and the eloops really start to shine when the restriction is high, just like when placed on a heatsink or in front of a very restrictive fan grill.
> 
> My point wasn't to discredit your tests or even your post for that matter, it's more about just reminding the masses that you can always get better equipment if you are willing to pay for it. At a certain point though the price vs performance just doesn't make it worth it. This would be where I really think the Phanteks fans shine. Especially since they come with all of their cases, they perform very well at a low noise level so for the most part there is really no need to change them out (and due to the price point they are a decent purchase for themselves as well), the build quality is also excellent. That doesn't mean _"The F140SP fans are amazing and you really dont want to replace them with anything"_, they really are amazing fans, but there are other fans that would do just as good a job as them and fans that perform beyond them as well.
> 
> Simply put: If they came with your case, you really don't need to swap them out unless you are opting for higher RPM fans. If you are buying fans for use on a radiator of heat-sink... there are better alternatives.


" If you just want high CFM you can get away with any fan optimized for air flow."
You can't have just CFM.
Resistance is an integral part of airflow.
This means to have cfm there is mm H2O resistance.

The case grill and filter create resistance to airflow, so to optimize airflow we need fans with a combination of cfm and mm H2O to obtain our needed airflow.

"Airflow" fans almost always have very low ability to overcome resistance, meaning in system use they flow very little air.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Otterfluff*
> 
> The F140SP fans are amazing and you really dont want to replace them with anything. Read my last post for a comparison with the Noctura IPPC fans. The F140SP same as the 140sp just it's black.
> 
> The fans that come with the PC-TH14PE are called 140HP fan which is basically a pwm fan that is the same as the 140XP only it has 120mm mounts. They are renowned as one of the best cpu heatsink fans and people often switch out the Noctua fans on a D-14 or D-15 heatsink and add on the 140HP for better and quieter performance.


Sorry, but I'm calling foul.
You are sounding like some kind of Phanteks fan fanatic















Saying Phanteks fans are best is not even close to true.
Saying they are better tha NF-A15 is totally untrue.
Few people, if any change the D14 or D15 fans to HP fans .. and if they do it's probably for color, not to PH-F140HP for "better performance".

The NF-A15 is one of the best in its class.
Thermalright TY-14x fans, (TY-140, TY-141, TY-142, TY-143, TY-145, TY-147, TY-147A, TY-149, etc are all equal to or maybe slightly better.
Biggest advantage of TY-14x fans is in most places they are significantly lower priced .. about the same as PH-F140SP and PH-F140HP.
Biggest disadvantage is they all use 120mm mounting .. but I'm expecting square ones soon. TY-147A Sq and TY-143 Sq


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> I use a lot of different fan and have found Phanteks fans to be some of the best .. except for PH-F200SP and PH-F140MP. They are as good as other top fans like Thermalright TY-147A, TY-143, NF-A15, NF-A14
> " If you just want high CFM you can get away with any fan optimized for air flow."
> You can't have just CFM.
> Resistance is an integral part of airflow.
> This means to have cfm there is mm H2O resistance.
> 
> The case grill and filter create resistance to airflow, so to optimize airflow we need fans with a combination of cfm and mm H2O to obtain our needed airflow.
> 
> "Airflow" fans almost always have very low ability to overcome resistance, meaning in system use they flow very little air.


My point exactly. What I tried and aparently failed to say in my comment was that CFM is not everything you should look at with a fan. measuring just the amount of air moved won't get you far in actual real life situations, since most places you would put a fan has some sort of restriction as well. Thus a combination of Static pressure and CFM is what you want to get the optimal setup.

My understanding of this is ofcourse not as good as I would want it to be. In regards the fans themselves... They are by all means goo fans, but just like anytihng I wouldn't discredit all other fans jsut becasue they are good. Every fan has their own sound which to some is pleasant and others unpleasant (I can't stand ball bearings for example, so GT's are out of the question for me), so things like noise to perfomrance should be taken with a grain of salt in that regard. As for actual performance, the Phanteks fans are good but there's also other fans that are equaly good that should also be considered when buying.

My comment was after all an answer to someone you yourself think _"are sounding like some kind of Phanteks fan fanatic"_. The CFM line was in answer to the line _"Phanteks make the best 140mm fans on the market with regards to both cfm/noise"_ which to me sounded a bit biased to be honest.

But enough about that, since we clearly seem to be on the same page on this matter.


----------



## Otterfluff

Phanteks do make some of the best fans of their class considering they have 5 years warranty, lower prices and longer rated operating hours than most other manufactures. Their sound is also very pleasant on the ears. They are not the super strong type of fan as in 2000 rpm+ so no they will never be in the super strong category that other fans promote as high static pressure, however they are generally able to get loud to the point I lower the speed down to 80% so I can not hear them. The Noctua fans I have are louder than the phanteks ie on my D14 and D15 and I find that the 140HP are quieter without sacrificing performance. Noone can say one fan is better than all the rest but when you compare price, warranty, rated operating hours, performance and sound then the phanteks fans really do shine as a solid choice compared to many other fans.

I am by no way a fanboy of phanteks fans but I did spend alot of time and money on as many fans as I could find in order to test out every 140mm fan I thought was worth giving a go last year. I am sure the Thermalright is a good fan. But I doubt it matches the price/quality/warranty that the phanteks provide. They offer 5 year warrenties and 150,000 rated operating hours. The only other manufacturer that I know of that has that level on standards is Noctua fans.

In regarding static pressure I did test that and I did find out that the 140sp was a good contender on a radiator WITH fine medical grade dust filters even when compared to the Noctua 3000rpm IPPC and the Phanteks 140MP.

I havent seen anyone online actually benchmark the 140sp on a radiator as of yet. They always focus on the 140MP which they assume is good for static pressure. Yet in my testing the 140mp was abysmal and not worth the money. However the 140sp worked very well when compared to High static pressure fans that ran at lower speeds with comparable acoustic levels.

I would love to see a site like thermal bench add the 140SP and 140XP to their fan testing. I think it's a crime they only bothered to try benching the 140MP which frankly is a shoddy port/copy from the 120MP.


----------



## ITAngel

I went back to air on the Phanteks Enthoo Pro and man is quite I love it plus it looks good and as much as I love the Corair Carbide Air 540 this Phanteks Enthoo Pro case has a place in my heart.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Otterfluff*
> 
> Phanteks do make some of the best fans of their class considering they have 5 years warranty, lower prices and longer rated operating hours than most other manufactures. Their sound is also very pleasant on the ears. They are not the super strong type of fan as in 2000 rpm+ so no they will never be in the super strong category that other fans promote as high static pressure, however they are generally able to get loud to the point I lower the speed down to 80% so I can not hear them. The Noctua fans I have are louder than the phanteks ie on my D14 and D15 and I find that the 140HP are quieter without sacrificing performance. Noone can say one fan is better than all the rest but when you compare price, warranty, rated operating hours, performance and sound then the phanteks fans really do shine as a solid choice compared to many other fans.
> 
> I am by no way a fanboy of phanteks fans but I did spend alot of time and money on as many fans as I could find in order to test out every 140mm fan I thought was worth giving a go last year. I am sure the Thermalright is a good fan. But I doubt it matches the price/quality/warranty that the phanteks provide. They offer 5 year warrenties and 150,000 rated operating hours. The only other manufacturer that I know of that has that level on standards is Noctua fans.
> 
> In regarding static pressure I did test that and I did find out that the 140sp was a good contender on a radiator WITH fine medical grade dust filters even when compared to the Noctua 3000rpm IPPC and the Phanteks 140MP.
> 
> I havent seen anyone online actually benchmark the 140sp on a radiator as of yet. They always focus on the 140MP which they assume is good for static pressure. Yet in my testing the 140mp was abysmal and not worth the money. However the 140sp worked very well when compared to High static pressure fans that ran at lower speeds with comparable acoustic levels.
> 
> I would love to see a site like thermal bench add the 140SP and 140XP to their fan testing. I think it's a crime they only bothered to try benching the 140MP which frankly is a shoddy port/copy from the 120MP.


I have many Thermalright TY-14x series fans, some of the first TY-140s they made. Even the first ones are still going strong. Not single failure. I have tested, retested and compared Nocs, Thermalrights, Phanteks, Cryorig ad others. At the end of all the testing, TY-14x series are my go to fans. While I have not changed my Phanteks cases from the PH-F140SP they come with, I have changed my 14PE coolers (red from 140TC to TY-143 and black from 140HP to TY-143).
Both at same ripm gave slight improvement in performance with similar to slightly lowered noise levels. The original 140TC was not PWM, and the adapter they sent me did not do a good job of controlling them. My system at the time had all PWM case fans with 1 controlled by CPU PWM signal and 2 controlled by GPU PWM signal, so having cooler fans working in harmony with them was my goal. The 140HP is much better than older 140TC, but TY-143 idles just as low (550-600rpm) and at full speed (2500rpm) moves significantly more air (130cfm) .. with noise levels to match. At same rpm flow and noise are similar. Obviously at full speed the differences are substantial, but I found even with i7 920 @ 4.2GHz they only ran 1500rpm @ 70c (23c room / 26c cooler intake).

Where is this testing you did? Would very much like to look it over.

Most review sites receive test samples from suppliers. So if Phanteks does not give them any PH-F140SP fans to test, they do not test them.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ITAngel*
> 
> I went back to air on the Phanteks Enthoo Pro and man is quite I love it plus it looks good and as much as I love the Corair Carbide Air 540 this Phanteks Enthoo Pro case has a place in my heart.


"Corsair" is just a brand / marketing name with little substance in product to support the name. Are any of their products their own, or are they all made by others with their logo on them?

Have you ever looked at their warranty? This is a quote from it:
Quote:


> *Remedies*
> 
> Corsair's entire liability and your exclusive remedy for any Corsair product that is not operating in accordance with its published technical specifications is at Corsair's discretion: 1) to repair or replace the product at Corsair's expense, or 2) to refund the price paid less a usage fee of 10% of the purchase price for each year since the date of purchase. This warranty obligation is conditioned upon the hardware being returned to the original place of purchase, or another place as directed by Corsair, with the original sales receipt attached. You may be required to pay shipping and handling charges, as well as any applicable tariffs, duties, taxes, or other fees. Corsair may, at its discretion, provide new or equivalent-to-new refurbished parts in good working condition, or repair or replace the hardware returned to Corsair.
> 
> Any repaired or replacement hardware will be warranted for the remainder of the original warranty period or thirty (30) days, whichever is greater, or for the period of time required by local statute
> 
> *Limitation of Liability*
> 
> CORSAIR SHALL NOT BE LIABLE FOR ANY SPECIAL, INCIDENTAL, INDIRECT, OR CONSEQUENTIAL DAMAGES WHATSOEVER, INCLUDING BUT NOT LIMITED TO LOSS OF PROFITS, REVENUE, OR DATA (WHETHER DIRECT OR INDIRECT) OR COMMERCIAL LOSS FOR BREACH OF ANY EXPRESS OR IMPLIED WARRANTY ON YOUR PRODUCT EVEN IF CORSAIR HAS BEEN ADVISED PREVIOUSLY OF THE POSSIBILITY OF SUCH DAMAGES. Some local laws do not allow the exclusion or limitation of special, indirect, incidental or consequential damages, so this limitation or exclusion may not apply in your jurisdiction.


The only reason for the normal lower case sentence at the end is the laws require them to include it.








http://www.corsair.com/en-gb/support/warranty
4h & 5th sections

When asked about all the exclusion of customer rights and not covering anything but what was required by law, their reply was, "It's just legalize. All warranty's are written like this." Me thinks the reality is they are after money, and anything done in the name of 'warranty' is only to make more money with nothing to do with customer support. In other words, "support the the customer just enough to keep them coming back .. or just enough to meet the law where customer lives.


----------



## Alex Dee

Starting a rebuild in my Primo SE Orange. Have some time off work starting 22nd so plan to get it started then









Phanteks Enthoo Primo SE orange
Asus Rampage Extreme V
Intel 5930K
16Gb Ripjaws 4 DDR4 2400mhz
Sli EVGA 980 SC
Superflower Platinum 1200W PSU

Alphacool UT60 480
Alphacool UT60 360
D5 Vario with XSPC top
EK Evo 2011v3 block
2 x FC-980 EK Copper blocks with black back plates
EK Spin V3 res
Monsoon orange fittings
Black 16/10 tubing

Hoping I have better luck this time - last time started with a leaking res and ended with a dead motherboard. Since then it's been on air / AIO.

Will get some pics up once done!

And @doyll - (I think) I trusted you on OCUK - don't know if I did it right though - I'm Alz_D on there


----------



## Otterfluff

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Where is this testing you did? Would very much like to look it over.
> 
> Most review sites receive test samples from suppliers. So if Phanteks does not give them any PH-F140SP fans to test, they do not test them.


I stuck it in a spoiler box, also linked to my build log where I first wrote about it. Go back and read it.


----------



## michael-ocn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rfarmer*


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *flynna3162581*
> 
> you dont need 2 radiators for this for a gpu block as well ... i guess u have not done your homework on this one


That's an awesomely tidy itx build with impressive cooling capabilities.

@flynna3162581, you asked for an example of water cooling in an evolv itx, @rfarmer gives you one, an excellent one, then you come back with a condescending proclamation? Huh?

Idk how you can even think to say that without knowing what those components are or what clocks they're running at, and even if you did know what all was in the system, you're wrong anyway. If your overclocking goals are at all ambitious, it would be well advised to have that extra rad in that loop. Basic rule of thumb 120 baseline + another 120 for each component. So for this system 360, worth of rad space is a good call.

(sry, that snipe just bugged me too much to not say something)


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *michael-ocn*
> 
> That's an awesomely tidy itx build with impressive cooling capabilities.
> 
> @flynna3162581, you asked for an example of water cooling in an evolv itx, @rfarmer gives you one, an excellent one, then you come back with a condescending proclamation? Huh?
> 
> Idk how you can even think to say that without knowing what those components are or what clocks they're running at, and even if you did know what all was in the system, you're wrong anyway. If your overclocking goals are at all ambitious, it would be well advised to have that extra rad in that loop. Basic rule of thumb 120 baseline + another 120 for each component. So for this system 360, worth of rad space is a good call.
> 
> (sry, that snipe just bugged me too much to not say something)


Thanks for the comment and complimenting my rig. As you stated I went with an additional 240mm rad because I thought it was needed. I have an i5 4690k OCed to 4.5 GHz and a GTX 970 with a custom bios sitting at 1506 MHz clock and 4000 MHz memory.

When I first installed the loop I had a 120mm rad, when I switched to a 240mm rad my load temps dropped 5C. I figure it is probably 10C lower than with just the H220-X.

Considering there are many members in this thread with 1000mm plus rads installed 480mm didn't seem like overkill.


----------



## flynna3162581

nope all i said there was no need for an extra radiator due to reviews and such already saying this was more then capable to do a gpu/cpu loop on its own


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *flynna3162581*
> 
> nope all i said there was no need for an extra radiator due to reviews and such already saying this was more then capable to do a gpu/cpu loop on its own


without overclock and a fairly low power draw sure...overclocking creates heat and fast with the added power draw....my 8320e is a great example...I would never break 35c with 25c ambient at stock but at 4.8 I'm pushing 60c...with 720mm of rad space...granted I have two gpus in the loop but...the temperatures I'm showing if consist of ibt avx on very high and gpus idling...So trek me again why the second rad isn't needed...sure his chip runs lower power draw but his chip also can withstand 80c easily (mines hit that but it never should've) the fact is more rads equal better performance especially when overclocking

@rfarmer ill I'll join the club probably tomorrow night...I'll have a 420 a 480 a 220 and a 280 in my primo


----------



## michael-ocn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *flynna3162581*
> 
> nope all i said there was no need for an extra radiator due to reviews and such already saying this was more then capable to do a gpu/cpu loop on its own


To be fair, that's not all you said, i was reacting to the quess you didn't do your homework comment which looked to me like a mild personal attack. Anyway, now you know that 120base + 120percomponent rule of thumb.


----------



## flynna3162581

michael thats why the swiftech h220x and x2 is a 2x120 radiator AIO so yes i do know the rule of thumb i've been doing it long enough


----------



## minh2134

Hey, did anyone try to fit the 54-60mm thick 360mm rad on the top of the enthoo pro? Is it possible or not? I'm considering getting it, but I don't want to waste my HX-360XC Koolance too.


----------



## cozumel68

@minh2134

I'm using a 60mm Alphacool UT60 on the top (push only).


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *minh2134*
> 
> Hey, did anyone try to fit the 54-60mm thick 360mm rad on the top of the enthoo pro? Is it possible or not? I'm considering getting it, but I don't want to waste my HX-360XC Koolance too.


it is not possible. the thickest rad you can do in the Pro is 45 mm, 40 mm to be safe.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cozumel68*
> 
> @minh2134
> 
> I'm using a 60mm Alphacool UT60 on the top (push only).


you're not using a 60 mm thick rad + fans in the Enthoo *Pro*. it literally does not have the room for it.


----------



## cozumel68

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PureBlackFire*
> 
> you're not using a 60 mm thick rad + fans in the Enthoo *Pro*. it literally does not have the room for it.


Oh...my bad...missed that it was the for the Enthoo Pro. Apologies to minh2134


----------



## doyll

@flynna3162581, @rfarmer has a very well thought out and built system .. while your ideas of what should be show little to no knowledge.


----------



## minh2134

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PureBlackFire*
> 
> it is not possible. the thickest rad you can do in the Pro is 45 mm, 40 mm to be safe.
> you're not using a 60 mm thick rad + fans in the Enthoo *Pro*. it literally does not have the room for it.


That's sad. Can you recommend me which case to fit my rad then? My budget is about $150, and I really like the Enthoo Pro design.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Otterfluff*
> 
> I stuck it in a spoiler box, also linked to my build log where I first wrote about it. Go back and read it.


Your spoiler box quote is hardly what most of us would consider a 'review' of products.

As you did not give a link to your 'spoiler box' I have included it here:

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Otterfluff*
> 
> This is ripped from my build log which you can find here: http://forums.overclockers.com.au/showthread.php?t=1173138
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Fans
> 
> I spent months agonizing over 140mm fans and what was the better option and in the end I went out and purchased the whole phantakes lineup and several noctua's to test them against each other.
> 
> Fans I tested:
> Phanteks 140SP led x2
> Phanteks 140MP x2
> Phanteks 140XP x2
> Noctura NF-A14 1500rpm 140mm pwm "got this just to test how the it compares to the IPPC fan and how it scales at the lower rpm levels"
> Noctua NF-A14 Industrial PPC 140mm 3000RPM PWM
> 
> My testing was done using:
> Zalman ZM-MFC3 fan controller
> PC Case Mod 3 Pin to 4 Pin PWM Micro Fan Variable Speed Controller
> Phobya PWM 8x 4Pin Splitter x2
> 
> I had the fans running on the desk and later attaching them to a Alphacool 280mm XT-45 radiator ontop of the Ethnoo Primo Shoud in the bottom with a demi flex filter underneath. Case side was not attached.
> 
> Starting with the Noctura NF-A14 1500 against the IPPC 3000rpm fans to see if at the same rpm they produced the same noise and push. I was pleasantly surprised that running both of them at speeds of 1000,1200,1300,1500 rpm I could not tell the difference between the two fans. They made the exact same hum up close and far away. They also pushed the same amount of air and I spent a good 30 minutes trying to pick any differences I could hear or feel. I honestly feel these are the exact same fans. The blades and veins in the frame are identical. The IPPC just has the fibrerglass blades for the higher rotations.
> 
> Something that was unexpected was that the Zalman Fan controller was not able to start the IPPC 3000 rpm fans on it's pwm header. The controller starts with too small a voltage/signal and then increases it slowly until it gets to it's target rpm. To get the fans started I had to use the Case Mod 3 Pin to 4 Pin PWM Controller connected to the fan controller 3 pin connector and then connected to a Phobya PWM 8x 4Pin Splitter. This allowed me to monitor the rpm through the Zalman controller and adjust the pwm signal via the Case Mod Controller and the Phobia Hub would maintain a constant voltage. This worked like a charm and I was able to start the Noctua IPPC fans and run them at speeds as little as 500rpm which is mighty impressive.
> 
> This is what the Case Mod 3 Pin to 4 Pin PWM looks like, Im using a ceramic mini screwdriver to adjust the variable pot on it. I have accidentally shorted my cpu_opt when a metal mini screwdriver shorted on the metal fan connectors of this pwm adjuster. Luckily the cpu_opt on my mainboard is a fake and can not do pwm signals, only voltage control No loss there really! I would of been pissed if it did the CPU fan header as that is the only real pwm header on my mainboard.
> 
> Phanteks 140SP led vs the 140XP
> 
> Next comparing the Phanteks fans against their siblings. First up was the 140SP led vs the 140XP. The fans not only look identical they perform identically with the exact same rpm to noise which was tested at 800rpm which was silent, 1000 rpm which was quiet, 1200 was quiet but louder, and these fans can do 1300 rpm which is getting a tad loud but not unpleasant. I really dont see the point in buying the XP version unless you want to get the QSA adapter, fan extension cable and the Anti-Vibration Compensators. The 140sp and led version are a much better bargain and the led version has separate led connectors so you can always choose to turn the colours off. The Phanteks 140XP and 140SP are basically the same fan but with different options.
> 
> Phanteks 140mp vs 140SP/XP
> 
> Next up the 140mp fans and the first thing I noticed was that these fans were alot louder and moved less air than the XP/SP models at maximun rpm of 1600. Their own specs say they do 1.62mm H20 which compared to the XP/SP which supposedly do 1.3/1.5 "I mean really, it's the same fan? considering the SP/XP are identical fans I would not believe this for a second, so lets say they are both 1.3mm H20" This left me a bit worried because if I scale down the 140mp fan to the same noise level as the XP/SP the fan is running at the same 1300 rpm as sp/xp while it is moving considerably less air than it's max rpm. I can only imagine that this takes a hit on the static pressure as well, let alone that it was pushing less air at 1600rpm let alone in a noise comparison of 1300 rpm to the XP/SP.
> 
> Phanteks 140MP against the Noctua IPPC 3000 rpm
> 
> Noise wise these two fans do not have the same noise level to rpm with the noctua being louder at the same speed, however I noticed the Noctua are pushing a noticeable amount more air and have a stronger flow. When the fans are operating at identical noise levels the rpm is around:
> 
> 1000rpm both noctua IPPC and 140MP are same noise
> 1200rpm noctua IPPC and 1300rpm for the 140MP
> 1500rpm noctua IPPC and 1600rpm for the 140mp
> 
> They are fairly similar performance wise but the noctura is defiantly stronger at the matching noise leve, which is not a good sign as i am certain the noctura is going to whip the 140mp with regards to static pressure. The 1500rpm Noctura has static pressure of 2.08mm H20 and at 1200rpm it lowers to 1.51mm H20. I find it hard to believe the 140mp will fare well against the noctura when the static pressure is equal or less for the 140mp and the airflow is considerably worse.
> 
> Phanteks 140XP/SP against the Noctua A14 IPPC 3000rpm
> 
> At the same noise level they both run at the same rpm this is what I found.
> 
> 1000rpm they are both quiet but the noctua is more of a hum while the phanteks is more like a air movement sound.
> 1200 rpm they are both quiet and you can hear them.
> 1300 rpm they are loud but pleasant, noctua has a more pronounced hum while the phanteks is more like the movement of turblent air.
> 
> At each comparable noise level the phanteks is moving considerably more air than the noctua.
> 
> Restrictive Radiator testing
> 
> I then went to testing fans on the Primo's shroud with the 280mm xt45 rad and DEMCI Flex filter underneath the shroud attached to the case. I kept the side panel off. I figured this was a better real world high resistance test especially because blowing through medical grade dust filters is not a easy thing. The first thing I noticed is that the fans are all alot quieter under a load than they are running on the desk. Especially the noctua's hum. They all seem to hum whine or whosh less when performing in push/pull and through a resistive setup.
> 
> Phanteks 140XP/SP vs the A140 IPPC fans on rad + dust filter
> 
> They maintained their noise to rpm sound sync like in the first tests for all the different rpm levels however what was surprising was that both setups moved the same amount of air at the same rpm.
> 
> This is really interesting because for the quiet fan range that makes the phantkes 140XP/SP in the same league as the Noctua's in a resistant radiator setup. I was very impressed with this, someone could easily do a full radiator setup for considerably cheaper and avoid using Noctua fans and not worry about if the static pressure was more important. I imagine what is happening is that the noctua's handle the setup well and have little trouble moving the air through the rad but the 140mp has a much better cfm and half decent static pressure so when it gets to work in a resistive radiator/dust filter it sacrifices some of it's cfm flow but still manages to match the noctua at the same noise to performance level.
> 
> Phanteks 140mp to the 140XP/SP on rad + dust filter
> 
> The rpm level to noise ratio was maintained from the first test but I found that the 140MP was pushing a little less air than the 140XP/SP fans at the same noise levels. It was a little less but the fan can be ramped up to 1600rpm higher but it's going to be much louder than the 140XP/SP at those levels. The 140mp is moving a reasonable level of air but I find it damning that it's cheaper 140sp is doing a better job pushing air through a radiator. Overall I am disappointed with this as the XP/SP siblings appear to be a better choice, the 140sp at a lower price no less. The SP also has optional led's.
> 
> Phanteks 140mp to the Noctua A14 IPPC 3000k on rad + dust filter
> 
> The rpm to noise levels were the same as the first test but the noctua is definitely pushing more air through the rad/dust filter in push/pull while operating at the same noise level.
> 
> Conclusions
> 
> The phanteks XP/SP fans are a excellent choice to use in a radiator setup. Quiet, cheaper and optional led's they really impressed me. The 140mp I would not get over the 140sp which is cheaper
> or the 140XP which comes with additional kit addons that the 140mp dose not come with.
> 
> The 140sp is cheaper than the 140XP but the XP has extra cables, low noise adapter, vibration rubber mounts and pwm. It's more about if you want those extra's + pwm. Both are the exact same fan and I do not think they run fast enough to warrant the pwm, but pwm control is nice just to jack 20 fans into a hub for one knob control on a fan controller.
> 
> The A140 IPPC 3000k Noctua performs well on a radiator especially a restrictive setup ie fat rad + dust filter. They cost as much as the radiators you install to setup in push/pull. They are quiet at lower rpm's. I can see them being beaten by the phanteks 140XP/SP if you stuck them in a non restrictive radiator setup like at the top of the Primo case without a dust filter running as a exhaust. Although you can really ramp up the noctua IPPC rpm for overclock testing so long as you wear hearing protection.
> 
> 
> 
> The 1600rpm fan you are talking about is the same as the 140MP fan which I reviewed. So use that as a comparison. I found in my testing that the fan was underwhelming when compared to the 140sp/XP and the Noctua IPPC so I would not recommend getting it.


Your so called 'review' is not what most of us consider a product review. Whiles some of the commentary of what you did is interesting, there is no data to substantiate your thoughts and feelings.

In context with extreme statements like:
"Phanteks make the best 140mm fans on the market with regards to both cfm/noise and performance on a radiator/noise."
and this:
"The fans that come with the PC-TH14PE are called 140HP fan which is basically a pwm fan that is the same as the 140XP only it has 120mm mounts. They are renowned as one of the best cpu heatsink fans and people often switch out the Noctua fans on a D-14 or D-15 heatsink and add on the 140HP for better and quieter performance."

and posts making little or no sense like this one:
"The 1600rpm fan you are talking about is the same as the 140MP fan which I reviewed. So use that as a comparison. I found in my testing that the fan was underwhelming when compared to the 140sp/XP and the Noctua IPPC so I would not recommend getting it."

Meaning there is little to no credibility in what you keep referring to as your "review' of the products.

It all sounds more like a politician speaking at a rally or a preacher giving a sermon.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Your so called 'review' is not what most of us consider a product review. Whiles some of the commentary of what you did is interesting, there is no data to substantiate your thoughts and feelings.
> 
> In context with extreme statements like:
> "Phanteks make the best 140mm fans on the market with regards to both cfm/noise and performance on a radiator/noise."
> and this:
> "The fans that come with the PC-TH14PE are called 140HP fan which is basically a pwm fan that is the same as the 140XP only it has 120mm mounts. They are renowned as one of the best cpu heatsink fans and people often switch out the Noctua fans on a D-14 or D-15 heatsink and add on the 140HP for better and quieter performance."


Wait.....what? The F140XP is not the same as the F140HP....nor is the F140HP the fan included with the TC14PE, that is the PH-F140 Premium....which also isn't the same as the F140XP. As someone who has several TC14PE, as well as a number of F140HP, I can assure you that they are *not* the same fan.


----------



## Otterfluff

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Wait.....what? The F140XP is not the same as the F140HP....nor is the F140HP the fan included with the TC14PE, that is the PH-F140 Premium....which also isn't the same as the F140XP. As someone who has several TC14PE, as well as a number of F140HP, I can assure you that they are *not* the same fan.


The 140HP and 140XP are not the same fan but they do share the same design and engineering. They operate at the same ratings speeds and air flow, what's different is the mounting.

As for doyll, I am not about to get into a shrill argument. I did some limited testing and the review is based on my own experiences. If people find that useful then thats great for them. I did it at a time when there was literally no good information out on 140mm fans, the review was limited and is now dated. If you don't find it useful for yourself then that's fine. I never desired to say the fans I tested was/are the best like some sort of fanboy, but I did intend to say they are very exceptional from my own experiences.

I see you like to use fighting words but I have no desire to cause any drama.


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *minh2134*
> 
> That's sad. Can you recommend me which case to fit my rad then? My budget is about $150, and I really like the Enthoo Pro design.


the Enthoo Luxe. I'm using a 61 mm thick 360 in mine.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Otterfluff*
> 
> The 140HP and 140XP are not the same fan but they do share the same design and engineering. They operate at the same ratings speeds and air flow, what's different is the mounting.
> 
> As for doyll, I am not about to get into a shrill argument. I did some limited testing and the review is based on my own experiences. If people find that useful then thats great for them. I did it at a time when there was literally no good information out on 140mm fans, the review was limited and is now dated. If you don't find it useful for yourself then that's fine. I never desired to say the fans I tested was/are the best like some sort of fanboy, but I did intend to say they are very exceptional from my own experiences.
> 
> I see you like to use fighting words but I have no desire to cause any drama.


The only shrill here is you.
If people find yuor little talk helpful, great. But based on the statements you made there and her, I'm not the only one finding your credibility is questionable.
Sorry to knock you off your self-attained pedestal, but 'literally' there is and has been better information than your for a long long time.The miss-information and exaggeration of facts makes your 'information' too suspect.
Again, what you did is not a 'review' as the word is defined by most if not all of us.
Assuming your statement that your stuff is now dated, why did you post it here?
I will agree they are good fans.


----------



## Avant Garde

What is the general consensus on great noise/performance PC Fans? I'm planning to buy some for CoolerMaster Nepton 240M (in case I can't find Swiftech H240-X2 Prestige ) and some fans for Evolv ATX or Enthoo Luxe.

What is the best choice for cool and silent system and can all those _higher quality_ fans even help?


----------



## MrKoala

Depends on how you define quality. Good noise/performance ratio and high reliability do not necessarily go together.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Avant Garde*
> 
> What is the general consensus on great noise/performance PC Fans? I'm planning to buy some for CoolerMaster Nepton 240M (in case I can't find Swiftech H240-X2 Prestige ) and some fans for Evolv ATX or Enthoo Luxe.
> 
> What is the best choice for cool and silent system and can all those _higher quality_ fans even help?


For case fans, the stock PH-F140SP is very good. There are some a little better, but not enough to justify the cost of changing them .. depending of cost. I know of one person who changed his Luxe 's PH-F200SP to 2x TY-147A fans. TIt's common knowledge the F200SP is not as good as 2x F140SP fans, but in his country they were way more expensive then TY-147A, which is at least as good. While the TY-147A is not square and has 120mm fan mounts, 2x will fit very tightly in the front. Thermalright should be releasing a square version soon I received a couple TY-147A Sq and TY-143 Sq about a month ago from first production run before retail boxing and packaging was done. I'm trying to get more to replace the stock PH-F140SP fans with and see what if any difference the temps and noise will be in my Luxe. If I can get enough I will do the same in my Primo.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrKoala*
> 
> Depends on how you define quality. Good noise/performance ratio and high reliability do not necessarily go together.


While what you say is true is technically true, noise / performance and reliability almost always go together, at least for several years .. usually more years than we use them.


----------



## ITAngel

So I decided to check before I sell my water cooling kit if the Phantek Enthoo Pro can be setup and I had a big issue with this case for that.

1. Case has no place to put the D5 Pump
2. The Res bracket they provided do crap as I can't put the my Res there since my graphic card is to long and can't fit. I can't put it on the top or bottom.
3. I need to remove hard drive slots which one again I can't do anything as I can't properly setup the 240mm on the front or the bottom. Once I take the only the D5 pump can be I have no other place to put it.

So here I though this case was originally design for friendly water cooling. I mean the only way I can see this happening is to buy a huge 420mm rad for top. Get the pump bracket from Phantek's and then figure out were to put the rest by maybe modding the case.









Is there a case that is friendly to run 2x 240mm rads and D5 pump plus X3 150 Res tubing setup? I am just curious to see what is out there. One that doesn't require a drilled like I did with the Air 540.









I may think to stay full air but was talking to a few friends and wanted me to try it out. I got low noise static fans so figure I give it a final shot. Thanks!


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ITAngel*
> 
> So I decided to check before I sell my water cooling kit if the Phantek Enthoo Pro can be setup and I had a big issue with this case for that.
> 
> 1. Case has no place to put the D5 Pump
> 2. The Res bracket they provided do crap as I can't put the my Res there since my graphic card is to long and can't fit. I can't put it on the top or bottom.
> 3. I need to remove hard drive slots which one again I can't do anything as I can't properly setup the 240mm on the front or the bottom. Once I take the only the D5 pump can be I have no other place to put it.
> 
> So here I though this case was originally design for friendly water cooling. I mean the only way I can see this happening is to buy a huge 420mm rad for top. Get the pump bracket from Phantek's and then figure out were to put the rest by maybe modding the case.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Is there a case that is friendly to run 2x 240mm rads and D5 pump plus X3 150 Res tubing setup? I am just curious to see what is out there. One that doesn't require a drilled like I did with the Air 540.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I may think to stay full air but was talking to a few friends and wanted me to try it out. I got low noise static fans so figure I give it a final shot. Thanks!


You can mount a 240 on the top and bottom, and use an EK Uni-holder as a pump mount. That requires only removing the bottom HDD cage. There should be plenty of room for the res, did you measure it up with the block size of the video card rather than with fans going over the end of it?

As far as friendlier with no drilling - the Pro M and Evolv ATX are friendlier for what you are doing.


----------



## RnRollie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ITAngel*
> 
> So I decided to check before I sell my water cooling kit if the Phantek Enthoo Pro can be setup and I had a big issue with this case for that.
> 
> 1. Case has no place to put the D5 Pump
> 2. The Res bracket they provided do crap as I can't put the my Res there since my graphic card is to long and can't fit. I can't put it on the top or bottom.
> 3. I need to remove hard drive slots which one again I can't do anything as I can't properly setup the 240mm on the front or the bottom. Once I take the only the D5 pump can be I have no other place to put it.
> 
> So here I though this case was originally design for friendly water cooling. I mean the only way I can see this happening is to buy a huge 420mm rad for top. Get the pump bracket from Phantek's and then figure out were to put the rest by maybe modding the case.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Is there a case that is friendly to run 2x 240mm rads and D5 pump plus X3 150 Res tubing setup? I am just curious to see what is out there. One that doesn't require a drilled like I did with the Air 540.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *
> 
> I may think to stay full air but was talking to a few friends and wanted me to try it out. I got low noise static fans so figure I give it a final shot. Thanks!


Caselabs....
Some Silverstone...

And more budget friendly:
Enthoo Primo
Fractal Design (ARC XL)
ThermalTake .. Cube X5, X9, V-series....
(i know its ThermalTake, but when they've done some good rip-off/copying, they aren't that bad)


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RnRollie*
> 
> Caselabs....
> Some Silverstone...
> 
> And more budget friendly:
> Enthoo Primo
> Fractal Design (ARC XL)
> 
> ThermalTake .. Cube X5, X9, V-series....
> (i know its ThermalTake, but when they've done some good rip-off/copying, they aren't that bad)


Doesn't matter if it's a good copy or not, it's still a blatant copy and that is unethical. Condoning unethical conduct is also unethical.









The other suggestions are good. Enthoo Primo is very good, in my opinion better quality than Arc XL


----------



## Ukaz

Hi ! Can I mount a EK XRES 140 d5 PWM Revo res/pump combo at the back of the enthoo primo (near the pci slots) vertically with the bracket EKWB provides ?


----------



## RnRollie

meh, ethics almost always give way to things like "I vote with my wallet", "My country, right or wrong" , "calling a spade a spade" , "if you are not with us, you are against us" , "i am hungry, i have to eat", etc etc You know what i mean.

Now, TT has been making "crap copies & stuff" for ages; but, the last few years, they have improved... not saying they make good stuff ... any case which vaguely adheres to ATX standard cant be good... but they have become better at making relative useful stuff for little money. Yes, they are still not upto the level they should be on quality, but they are about level with Corsair, for which we have seen a steady decline in quality as far as budget, low & midrange cases are concerned. You can buy a whole container of them cases -not carrying a Corsair badge- though Alibaba for a fraction of the unit price.

For TT, i never suggested anyone to look at TT as an alternative.. mostly because their stuff wasnt very good... but recently they are doing something right -even if it are copies/rip-offs- , they are doing good enough to become an alternative for people looking for specific things.
Som recently i have been suggesting TT as a possible alternative... _(and i have trouble believing this myself that i would ever do that)_ Ethics aside.

Of course, you still get what you pay for... TT is NOT Caselabs or Silverstone... but they are players in the budget/ low-to-midrange again.
But if you really want value for money, THEN Fractal Design & Phanteks are of course much better... , mainly because i have yet not found mass-produced feeble "copies" coming in containers from The Peoples Republic of Lead Paint









Anyways.. rant over.. back to topic


----------



## bmt22033

So my Evolv ATX finally arrived last night. I've never seen packaging that damaged before and I've been ordering cases for 20+ years! Miraculously, though, the case itself seems completely fine. It's going to be a few days before I can start my build but the Evolv ATX is simply beautiful. Does anyone know if the tempered glass side panels that Phanteks showed off recently will be available as an upgrade for the existing Evolv ATX (as opposed to having to buy a completely new "tempered glass edition" of the case)?


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RnRollie*
> 
> meh, ethics almost always give way to things like "I vote with my wallet", "My country, right or wrong" , "calling a spade a spade" , "if you are not with us, you are against us" , "i am hungry, i have to eat", etc etc You know what i mean.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Now, TT has been making "crap copies & stuff" for ages; but, the last few years, they have improved... not saying they make good stuff ... any case which vaguely adheres to ATX standard cant be good... but they have become better at making relative useful stuff for little money. Yes, they are still not upto the level they should be on quality, but they are about level with Corsair, for which we have seen a steady decline in quality as far as budget, low & midrange cases are concerned. You can buy a whole container of them cases -not carrying a Corsair badge- though Alibaba for a fraction of the unit price.
> 
> For TT, i never suggested anyone to look at TT as an alternative.. mostly because their stuff wasnt very good... but recently they are doing something right -even if it are copies/rip-offs- , they are doing good enough to become an alternative for people looking for specific things.
> Som recently i have been suggesting TT as a possible alternative... _(and i have trouble believing this myself that i would ever do that)_ Ethics aside.
> 
> Of course, you still get what you pay for... TT is NOT Caselabs or Silverstone... but they are players in the budget/ low-to-midrange again.
> But if you really want value for money, THEN Fractal Design & Phanteks are of course much better... , mainly because i have yet not found mass-produced feeble "copies" coming in containers from The Peoples Republic of Lead Paint
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anyways.. rant over.. back to topic


No, I don't know what you mean.







Getting down and crawling in the poo is still getting stinky.







Right and wrong are still the same, you can't justify it away. Crawl with the scum and you become scum. When it's wrong, it's wrong. You can compromise yourself if you want, but I'll pay a little more to a more ethical company and still manage to eat.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bmt22033*
> 
> So my Evolv ATX finally arrived last night. I've never seen packaging that damaged before and I've been ordering cases for 20+ years! Miraculously, though, the case itself seems completely fine. It's going to be a few days before I can start my build but the Evolv ATX is simply beautiful. Does anyone know if the tempered glass side panels that Phanteks showed off recently will be available as an upgrade for the existing Evolv ATX (as opposed to having to buy a completely new "tempered glass edition" of the case)?


Apparently not compatible, check the 1:00 mark -


----------



## RnRollie

meh.. what car make/model do you drive? How much of it is "licensed", "inspired by", "blatant copy" or "we must adhere to standards"?
There are no 5 million ways to make a car, just like there are no 5 million ways to make (an ATX) case.

Yes, TT is known for "copying", but no matter how hard it sucks for Caselabs, caselabs could not make a hard case of "blatant copy"... at best they could do is : overly, excessively "inspired by"
Also, a non-TT example, Coolermaster didnt invent the stackable case, but nobody took THEM to court.

Inspiration inspires.... there are no 5 million ways to do certain things, sometimes it leans close to "blatant copy", sometimes it leads to an inspired improvement of an existing "good idea"... it is what it is.

Also, currently the cheapest and best sold smartphone is made and sold exclusively in India.... should they sell it 1000 times more expensive -outside the means of the common people- just to pay license fees to Apple for using a rounded rectangle display?

Ethics can lead to a discussion without end... i find Apple more unethical as Samsung because of their patent trolling and muscling competitors out of the market by selective lobbying, And Samsung is also wrong in certain areas for how they threat their workforce... and as soon as i invoke Monsanto or EA, then TT and even Apple are not the most "evil" in the world anymore

Ethics.. a difficult discussion... because it linked both to individual and cultural "values"... the closest humanity came to writing down an "ethical standard" is the Geneva Convention one.. and even that we are willign to throw out of the window if it suits us... be it in name of "national security", "anti-terrorism laws", or for "i am hungry, my kids are hungry and you have lots that you dont want to share, so ill take it"

Ethics.. a difficult discussion...


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RnRollie*
> 
> meh.. what car make/model do you drive? How much of it is "licensed", "inspired by", "blatant copy" or "we must adhere to standards"?
> There are no 5 million ways to make a car, just like there are no 5 million ways to make (an ATX) case.
> 
> Yes, TT is known for "copying", but no matter how hard it sucks for Caselabs, caselabs could not make a hard case of "blatant copy"... at best they could do is : overly, excessively "inspired by"
> Also, a non-TT example, Coolermaster didnt invent the stackable case, but nobody took THEM to court.
> 
> Inspiration inspires.... there are no 5 million ways to do certain things, sometimes it leans close to "blatant copy", sometimes it leads to an inspired improvement of an existing "good idea"... it is what it is.
> 
> Also, currently the cheapest and best sold smartphone is made and sold exclusively in India.... should they sell it 1000 times more expensive -outside the means of the common people- just to pay license fees to Apple for using a rounded rectangle display?
> 
> Ethics can lead to a discussion without end... i find Apple more unethical as Samsung because of their patent trolling and muscling competitors out of the market by selective lobbying, And Samsung is also wrong in certain areas for how they threat their workforce... and as soon as i invoke Monsanto or EA, then TT and even Apple are not the most "evil" in the world anymore
> 
> Ethics.. a difficult discussion... because it linked both to individual and cultural "values"... the closest humanity came to writing down an "ethical standard" is the Geneva Convention one.. and even that we are willign to throw out of the window if it suits us... be it in name of "national security", "anti-terrorism laws", or for "i am hungry, my kids are hungry and you have lots that you dont want to share, so ill take it"
> 
> Ethics.. a difficult discussion...


What if we put ethics aside and just go off the fact that Tt cases are really poorly constructed when compared to the cases they copied?


----------



## RnRollie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *RnRollie*
> 
> meh.. what car make/model do you drive? How much of it is "licensed", "inspired by", "blatant copy" or "we must adhere to standards"?
> There are no 5 million ways to make a car, just like there are no 5 million ways to make (an ATX) case.
> ---snip---
> Ethics.. a difficult discussion...
> 
> 
> 
> What if we put ethics aside and just go off the fact that Tt cases are really poorly constructed when compared to the cases they copied?
Click to expand...

ok


----------



## ITAngel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> You can mount a 240 on the top and bottom, and use an EK Uni-holder as a pump mount. That requires only removing the bottom HDD cage. There should be plenty of room for the res, did you measure it up with the block size of the video card rather than with fans going over the end of it?
> 
> As far as friendlier with no drilling - the Pro M and Evolv ATX are friendlier for what you are doing.


Thanks for posting out the EK Uni-holder, I may use my tools create something or get the M Pro version who knows. lol For a full size large case I feel with the GTX 980 Ti is pretty tight the place they have you mount the reservoir. XD


----------



## ITAngel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Doesn't matter if it's a good copy or not, it's still a blatant copy and that is unethical. Condoning unethical conduct is also unethical.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The other suggestions are good. Enthoo Primo is very good, in my opinion better quality than Arc XL


lol nothing wrong with a good copy is only bad when the copy is worse than the original.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ITAngel*
> 
> Thanks for posting out the EK Uni-holder, I may use my tools create something or get the M Pro version who knows. lol For a full size large case I feel with the GTX 980 Ti is pretty tight the place they have you mount the reservoir. XD


Are you sure that res won't fit with the GTX 980 Ti? I have mounted other 60mm diameter res there with a GTX 780, and the 780 and 980 Ti are both 266.7mm. It's tight, but it should fit.


----------



## ITAngel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Are you sure that res won't fit with the GTX 980 Ti? I have mounted other 60mm diameter res there with a GTX 780, and the 780 and 980 Ti are both 266.7mm. It's tight, but it should fit.


So you know that plate they provide you to put your res into? Well when I put that plate attached, If I put the res it has to be way up with only one holder clip or have it put way to the bottom. I have the ek res x3 150 which is a bit long and yes the GTX 980 Ti is about an inch and a half away from that plate making it impossible to pit the res on that plate. I can't even put it on the side were you screw your graphic cards as the gtx 980 ti is a tall card as well.

After seeing some pictures of other people projects I feel I have to take out the tools and really mod this case to fit my setup.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ITAngel*
> 
> So you know that plate they provide you to put your res into? Well when I put that plate attached, If I put the res it has to be way up with only one holder clip or have it put way to the bottom. I have the ek res x3 150 which is a bit long and yes the GTX 980 Ti is about an inch and a half away from that plate making it impossible to pit the res on that plate. I can't even put it on the side were you screw your graphic cards as the gtx 980 ti is a tall card as well.
> 
> After seeing some pictures of other people projects I feel I have to take out the tools and really mod this case to fit my setup.


I know exactly what you are talking about, I just can't figure out why it doesn't fit. Is your 980 Ti a non-standard sized PCB? I probably should have asked that first, and with the description you are giving.....


----------



## ITAngel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> I know exactly what you are talking about, I just can't figure out why it doesn't fit. Is your 980 Ti a non-standard sized PCB? I probably should have asked that first, and with the description you are giving.....


I have the EVGA GTX 980 Ti Classified card, don't know the dimension from top of my head bit it is just as long enough to prevent me to put the res right behind it.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ITAngel*
> 
> I have the EVGA GTX 980 Ti Classified card, don't know the dimension from top of my head bit it is just as long enough to prevent me to put the res right behind it.


Having a card that's ~14mm longer than the standard PCB does make things a _little_ tougher........









Well, that answers that. A Pro M, Evolv ATX or Fractal Define S would serve your needs a bit better.


----------



## Faster_is_better

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ITAngel*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Are you sure that res won't fit with the GTX 980 Ti? I have mounted other 60mm diameter res there with a GTX 780, and the 780 and 980 Ti are both 266.7mm. It's tight, but it should fit.
> 
> 
> 
> So you know that plate they provide you to put your res into? Well when I put that plate attached, If I put the res it has to be way up with only one holder clip or have it put way to the bottom. I have the ek res x3 150 which is a bit long and yes the GTX 980 Ti is about an inch and a half away from that plate making it impossible to pit the res on that plate. I can't even put it on the side were you screw your graphic cards as the gtx 980 ti is a tall card as well.
> 
> After seeing some pictures of other people projects I feel I have to take out the tools and really mod this case to fit my setup.
Click to expand...

You will probably have to drill new holes and move the res over to the far right. I did it with mine, and actually kept the plastic cover plate too but had to notch that out. My cards aren't as long as yours, so you will have to test fit to see if there is even any room at all to mount the res there, new mounting holes or not.

That is r9 290s and a 65mm diameter res. It was pretty tight, had to mount the res to far right slightly off from the drive bays.







If you want more pics I did a build log showing pretty much the whole mod, where I put holes etc.


----------



## bmt22033

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Apparently not compatible, check the 1:00 mark -


Oh.







Now I'm wondering if I should return the case and wait for the tempered glass edition...


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Faster_is_better*
> 
> You will probably have to drill new holes and move the res over to the far right. I did it with mine, and actually kept the plastic cover plate too but had to notch that out. My cards ......


You have a Primo, the discussion was about a Pro. If he had a Primo, there would be enough room.


----------



## ITAngel

Is it possible to buy the Acrylic Window for the Enthoo Pro M if your case came without it?


----------



## golfleep

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ITAngel*
> 
> Is it possible to buy the Acrylic Window for the Enthoo Pro M if your case came without it?


I went through the same thing with a Enthoo Pro. Had the solid side panel, decided later to get a windowed panel. I called Phanteks at their customer support 1(909)598-2115 (From their website). They said no problem, sent me a paypal invoice, and in a few days I had a windowed side panel. Shipping was fast and very reasonable (like $10), and everything was well packaged


----------



## ITAngel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *golfleep*
> 
> I went through the same thing with a Enthoo Pro. Had the solid side panel, decided later to get a windowed panel. I called Phanteks at their customer support 1(909)598-2115 (From their website). They said no problem, sent me a paypal invoice, and in a few days I had a windowed side panel.


+1 Nice, Thank you. I will do that.


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ITAngel*
> 
> Is it possible to buy the Acrylic Window for the Enthoo Pro M if your case came without it?


the acrylic window is not compatible with the non acrylic version of the case. you'd have to drill holes to mount it.


----------



## ITAngel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PureBlackFire*
> 
> the acrylic window is not compatible with the non acrylic version of the case. you'd have to drill holes to mount it.


Oh really? That sucks! Is it hard to drill them and get it all set?


----------



## ITAngel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Faster_is_better*
> 
> You will probably have to drill new holes and move the res over to the far right. I did it with mine, and actually kept the plastic cover plate too but had to notch that out. My cards aren't as long as yours, so you will have to test fit to see if there is even any room at all to mount the res there, new mounting holes or not.
> 
> That is r9 290s and a 65mm diameter res. It was pretty tight, had to mount the res to far right slightly off from the drive bays.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you want more pics I did a build log showing pretty much the whole mod, where I put holes etc.


Thank you for sharing I looked into it and the area is still pretty tight I would need a Primo version or change a few things I guess? lol


----------



## doyll

@hht92
Was wondering what your thoughts are about the TY-147A fans you installed a month ago?


----------



## hht92

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> @hht92
> Was wondering what your thoughts are about the TY-147A fans you installed a month ago?


Great fans, silent (in idle and load), very good airflow, now i have lower the gpu fans (the Direct CU II fans were very noisy at high rpm) now i have them at 50 % cause of the TY-147A which they help a lot with the GPU temps, also the price is great consider the same fans from Noctua cost double price.

The only case was that the front fans are tight and you cant use more than 2 screws cause of the fan shape but that is nothing since they do the job.


----------



## PSILVA

Can i use 2 ty-147a in front on the luxe case?


----------



## ITAngel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PSILVA*
> 
> Can i use 2 ty-147a in front on the luxe case?


I believe you can aren't they 140mm fans? You can only support if I recall two of the. I believe Luxe is really closed to the Pro version in design.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hht92*
> 
> Great fans, silent (in idle and load), very good airflow, now i have lower the gpu fans (the Direct CU II fans were very noisy at high rpm) now i have them at 50 % cause of the TY-147A which they help a lot with the GPU temps, also the price is great consider the same fans from Noctua cost double price.
> 
> The only case was that the front fans are tight and you cant use more than 2 screws cause of the fan shape but that is nothing since they do the job.


I was sure you would be happy, but always good to know for a fact.







Has Asus upgraded their GPU bios to allow their fans to idle down real slow or even turn off at idle? My old GTX 580 Direct CU II would not. I made a custom shroud for TY-100 fans and that helped a lot, but ended up adding an inline resister (like some case fans come with) to lower the 12v to 10v. While that lowered the top speed a fewl hundred rpm, combined with the PWM pulsing the 10v lowered the idle by 4-600rpm .. meaning at idle the GPU was silent.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PSILVA*
> 
> Can i use 2 ty-147a in front on the luxe case?


You can, but it is a very tight fit. The screw holes for 120mm fans are not quite spaced wide enough, and the fans are just a little too big (like 1-2mm) meaning they need to be pushed in rather hard. hht92 did it .. I've done it. But if you can wait a month or so we should have TY-147A Sq fans.







They are in the works for sure. I received notice of a couple samples coming my way today. Also TY-143 Sq fan.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ITAngel*
> 
> I believe you can aren't they 140mm fans? You can only support if I recall two of the. I believe Luxe is really closed to the Pro version in design.


Luxe and Pro are made from same metal case. The front and top panels are what are different. Front fans fit inside of metal case so no difference.


----------



## ITAngel

Oh i see, thanks doyll.


----------



## Faster_is_better

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Faster_is_better*
> 
> You will probably have to drill new holes and move the res over to the far right. I did it with mine, and actually kept the plastic cover plate too but had to notch that out. My cards ......
> 
> 
> 
> You have a Primo, the discussion was about a Pro. If he had a Primo, there would be enough room.
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ITAngel*
> 
> Thank you for sharing I looked into it and the area is still pretty tight I would need a Primo version or change a few things I guess? lol


Ah.. I forgot the Pro had that same layout and didn't read back far enough...


----------



## NKrader

Come checkout my Phanteks Evolv Buildlog

http://www.overclock.net/t/1595255/build-log-something-purple-this-way-comes


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Ok so I'm tearing down my pc to transplant into my primo case and in my pro I don't have a drain or really a good way to drain it all out...so I got to thinking people pressure test these all the time using air so my draining solution was born...dialed the compressor back to 20 psi and slowly forced the water out worked beautifully


Please overlook hire horribly dusty everything is I've been running it for months with no panels lol

I also found an interesting little tidbit I'm not sure how this happened and I never heard it...still unsure how the blades didn't sheer off I run them at full speed...the bottom of the case was flat and level I can only guess the fan got out of balance...


----------



## ITAngel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> Ok so I'm tearing down my pc to transplant into my primo case and in my pro I don't have a drain or really a good way to drain it all out...so I got to thinking people pressure test these all the time using air so my draining solution was born...dialed the compressor back to 20 psi and slowly forced the water out worked beautifully
> 
> 
> Please overlook hire horribly dusty everything is I've been running it for months with no panels lol
> 
> I also found an interesting little tidbit I'm not sure how this happened and I never heard it...still unsure how the blades didn't sheer off I run them at full speed...the bottom of the case was flat and level I can only guess the fan got out of balance...


Nice I am totally going to do that haha. 20psi not bad at all.


----------



## ciarlatano

Just as a happy accident, this MMRS combination is one of the (very) few reservoirs that will bolt into the Evolv ATX/Pro M chassis using the existing holes only, and be absolutely properly placed. This wasn't planned at all, and I was really surprised that I never had to use the drill. Plenty of room up top to fill with a 30mm rad + fans up top, and room for a 30mm thick rad in the front.


----------



## Faster_is_better

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Just as a happy accident, this MMRS combination is one of the (very) few reservoirs that will bolt into the Evolv ATX/Pro M chassis using the existing holes only, and be absolutely properly placed. This wasn't planned at all, and I was really surprised that I never had to use the drill. Plenty of room up top to fill with a 30mm rad + fans up top, and room for a 30mm thick rad in the front.


And a sweet looking res to boot!


----------



## 19DELTASNAFU

Has anyone totally gutted the Enthoo Luxe for water cooling. I'm torn on removing the hard drive cage and backing plate (the one that blocks the whole right side of the front of the case). I have a dual loop setup with very nice monsoon/EK/primochill revolver sx etc, etc. I hate to hide it all behind that plate. No need for storage drives other than ssds on the rear panel. I could bunch alot of the res/pumps around the MB but it will look bad with a lot of tight bends and the from rad/hardpipe will not be seen. What I'm wondering is how much rigidity the case loses when it's gutted. Should I use some clear Plexi instead of the HD cage/plate. Any input.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *19DELTASNAFU*
> 
> Has anyone totally gutted the Enthoo Luxe for water cooling. I'm torn on removing the hard drive cage and backing plate (the one that blocks the whole right side of the front of the case). I have a dual loop setup with very nice monsoon/EK/primochill revolver sx etc, etc. I hate to hide it all behind that plate. No need for storage drives other than ssds on the rear panel. I could bunch alot of the res/pumps around the MB but it will look bad with a lot of tight bends and the from rad/hardpipe will not be seen. What I'm wondering is how much rigidity the case loses when it's gutted. Should I use some clear Plexi instead of the HD cage/plate. Any input.


it's totally fine even with the media bays removed..my pro (same chassis) ran that way for a year and I could move it without any panels with no issues....That said I never removed the full length panel you might need some bracing for that


----------



## Joe88

so I went and got the artic F12 120mm 5.pk
I have them configured like this in my enthoo pro
3x 120mm exhaust top (atric)
1x 140mm exhuast rear (phanteks)
1x 200mm intake (phanteks)
bottom next to psu, nothing, psu shroud it on

I also removed the top hard drive cage to allow better air flow

I have negative pressure right now, would it be better to move the 200mm to the top and put 2x 120mm in the front?
also for the future, would an ek predator 360 fit on top (will have to remove one of the things in the drive bays)?


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Joe88*
> 
> so I went and got the artic F12 120mm 5.pk
> I have them configured like this in my enthoo pro
> 3x 120mm exhaust top (atric)
> 1x 140mm exhuast rear (phanteks)
> 1x 200mm intake (phanteks)
> bottom next to psu, nothing, psu shroud it on
> 
> I also removed the top hard drive cage to allow better air flow
> 
> I have negative pressure right now, would it be better to move the 200mm to the top and put 2x 120mm in the front?
> also for the future, would an ek predator 360 fit on top (will have to remove one of the things in the drive bays)?


You could have gotten another 1 or 2 PH-F140SP like your stock exhaust and used them as intakes or a couple of Arctic F14 to replace the 200mm. With few exceptions top exhaust in a front to back airflow design is bad news. Top venting is for radiators, not front to back airflow.

Sorry to be so harsh. I know you are very proud of your system and I'm sure you have spend a lto of time and money, .. But I can't let this mega-fubar of airflow you have created go unpunished.

As you said, way more exhaust than intake means dust is being sucked in any hole / vent trying to keep up with the exhaust flow of 3x 120mm + 1x 140mm exhaust fans. Generally 2x 140mm fans of same design move similar amount of air as 3x 120mm and are quieter too. PH-F140SP = 82.1 CFM @ 1200rpm / 19dB(A)' PH-F120SP = 54.4cfm @ 1300rpm / 24.4dB(A)
The 200mm front intake is near worthless .. 2x 140mm front intakes work way better.
The 3x 120mm top exhaust are bringing up the R9 930's heated exhaust up around your CPU cooler causing CPU to run hotter.
"Ways to Better Cooling" link in my sig might be of interest. 1st post is index, click on topics to see them. 5th one is good place to start.

Again, sorry to rain on your picnic, and if you want anything, just ask.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Joe88*
> 
> so I went and got the artic F12 120mm 5.pk
> I have them configured like this in my enthoo pro.....


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> You could have gotten another 1 or 2 PH-F140SP like your stock exhaust and used them as intakes or a couple of Arctic F14 to replace the 200mm. With few exceptions top exhaust in a front to back airflow design is bad news. Top venting is for radiators, not front to back airflow.
> 
> Sorry to be so harsh. I know you are very proud of your system and I'm sure you have spend a lto of time and money, .. But I can't let this mega-fubar of airflow you have created go unpunished.
> 
> As you said, way more exhaust than intake means dust is being sucked in any hole / vent trying to keep up with the exhaust flow of 3x 120mm + 1x 140mm exhaust fans. Generally 2x 140mm fans of same design move similar amount of air as 3x 120mm and are quieter too. PH-F140SP = 82.1 CFM @ 1200rpm / 19dB(A)' PH-F120SP = 54.4cfm @ 1300rpm / 24.4dB(A)
> The 200mm front intake is near worthless .. 2x 140mm front intakes work way better.
> The 3x 120mm top exhaust are bringing up the R9 930's heated exhaust up around your CPU cooler causing CPU to run hotter.
> "Ways to Better Cooling" link in my sig might be of interest. 1st post is index, click on topics to see them. 5th one is good place to start.
> 
> Again, sorry to rain on your picnic, and if you want anything, just ask.


I have to agree with @doyll. I am sure the decision to put the three fans up top was mostly (or all) for aesthetic purposes rather than airflow. If you want to keep the look and minimize the airflow issues, disconnect the two F12s nearest the front, or run them at there absolute minimum speeds just for show. Change out the 200mm to a pair of F140SP to get some cool air flowing into the case.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> I have to agree with @doyll. I am sure the decision to put the three fans up top was mostly (or all) for aesthetic purposes rather than airflow. If you want to keep the look and minimize the airflow issues, disconnect the two F12s nearest the front, or run them at there absolute minimum speeds just for show. Change out the 200mm to a pair of F140SP to get some cool air flowing into the case.


If you want to keep the top fans for assthetics, put something over the front 2x fans. Even spinning slow they move air.


----------



## smicha

Enjoy them all








http://www.overclock.net/t/1593527/watercooled-4x-980ti-phanteks-enthoo-primo


----------



## Joe88

My gpu temps dropped about 10-15c with that fan config
it was sitting around 85-90c when playing dying light, gtav, mgsv and so on
now it barely goes above 74c
I had no exhaust on the top before, just the 140mm rear exhaust

cpu temps stayed about the same, I didn't notice any real difference (before I had a delta 120mm AFB1212M in push on the hsf and a crappy apevia 120mm in pull)

all fans are hooked up to the pwm fan hub in the case except for the top rear most fan which is plugged directly into the mobo, just a regular 3 pin connector

I can try a few things like removing the 200mm fan and putting two of the front most top 120mm fans in its place
I don't really mind dust as its pretty easy to dust the inside, I just want the gpu temps to be lower, also its not for aesthetics as you cant even see the fans with the side panel on (except for the cpu hsf fans)

the noise is also not that bad, all 5 of these fans are more quiet then the delta "screamer" running at lowest rpm


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Joe88*
> 
> My gpu temps dropped about 10-15c with that fan config
> it was sitting around 85-90c when playing dying light, gtav, mgsv and so on
> now it barely goes above 74c
> I had no exhaust on the top before, just the 140mm rear exhaust
> 
> cpu temps stayed about the same, I didn't notice any real difference (before I had a delta 120mm AFB1212M in push on the hsf and a crappy apevia 120mm in pull)
> 
> all fans are hooked up to the pwm fan hub in the case except for the top rear most fan which is plugged directly into the mobo, just a regular 3 pin connector
> 
> I can try a few things like removing the 200mm fan and putting two of the front most top 120mm fans in its place
> I don't really mind dust as its pretty easy to dust the inside, I just want the gpu temps to be lower, also its not for aesthetics as you cant even see the fans with the side panel on (except for the cpu hsf fans)
> 
> the noise is also not that bad, all 5 of these fans are more quiet then the delta "screamer" running at lowest rpm


I can understand how adding the 3x up top would lower GPU temps. I'm guessing what adding the 3x up top did was dramatically increased your case's airflow .. which was most needed to improve GPU temp. The fact the CPU remained at similar temps only means the airflow it was getting before was about same temp as it is now. Also, remove all unused PCIe back slot cover to help with front to back airflow around the GPU. If your motherboard has more than 1 16x PCIe socket, use the lowest one. This allow the heated air coming off of GPU to have more room to flow back and out of case without contaminating the cool air flowing to CPU.

The Phanteks PWM *controlled* fan hub is not a PWM fan hub. It uses the PWM signal to adjust the voltage it supplies to 3-pin fans. What you are doing is using it as a 3-way 3-pin fan splitter. Your CPU fan header is probably PWM, so if you use it and PSU power it should control the fans' speed at similar rpm percentage ratio as CPU fan.


----------



## Joe88

I have the hub plugged into the cpu_opt pwm header on the mobo and they are controlled based on cpu temp
I actually noticed that the f12 fans need about .25A running at max and the headers are only rated at around 1A, right now it has 6 fans totaling about 1.40A so I have to do some reconfig on the fans and move a few of them onto the mobo

GPU is already sitting in the 3rd slot down


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Joe88*
> 
> My gpu temps dropped about 10-15c with that fan config
> it was sitting around 85-90c when playing dying light, gtav, mgsv and so on
> now it barely goes above 74c
> I had no exhaust on the top before, just the 140mm rear exhaust
> 
> cpu temps stayed about the same, I didn't notice any real difference (before I had a delta 120mm AFB1212M in push on the hsf and a crappy apevia 120mm in pull)
> 
> all fans are hooked up to the pwm fan hub in the case except for the top rear most fan which is plugged directly into the mobo, just a regular 3 pin connector
> 
> I can try a few things like removing the 200mm fan and putting two of the front most top 120mm fans in its place
> I don't really mind dust as its pretty easy to dust the inside, I just want the gpu temps to be lower, also its not for aesthetics as you cant even see the fans with the side panel on (except for the cpu hsf fans)
> 
> the noise is also not that bad, all 5 of these fans are more quiet then the delta "screamer" running at lowest rpm


I didn't realize there was a multi-GPU setup involved. It also seems (obviously) that you are totally GPUccentric in the build, with CPU being secondary. Changing out the 200mm to a pair of good 140mm will help quite a bit with getting more fresh air to your GPUs.


----------



## michael-ocn

My ultimate axial-fan-type-980ti cooling solution is to swing the evolve atx side panel open while gaming. Hot exhaust shoots out the side of the gpu and continues right out the case.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Joe88*
> 
> I have the hub plugged into the cpu_opt pwm header on the mobo and they are controlled based on cpu temp
> I actually noticed that the f12 fans need about .25A running at max and the headers are only rated at around 1A, right now it has 6 fans totaling about 1.40A so I have to do some reconfig on the fans and move a few of them onto the mobo
> 
> GPU is already sitting in the 3rd slot down


If you use / are using PSU power to the fan hub, you do not need to worry about the 0.25A load of fans. The hub is rated about 3amp with PSU power. That is one of the two great things about the Phantkes PWM controlled hub. It controls variable voltage fans and does it using PSU power. All the motherboard needs t supply is the PWM signal, and it would be almost impossible to damage the motherboard fan header doing that. PWM signal control is a strange beast. the 3.5v or 5v PWM control power is supply by fan, the PWM header controls the pulse of that power, which then signals the fan to pulse the 12v power to fan motor. In the PWM controlled hub this fan header pulse control give the hub what it need to control the 12v power it is getting from PSU so the 3-pin fans plugged into the hub have controlled speed. I know, it's a rather confusing control system.


----------



## michael-ocn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smicha*
> 
> 
> 
> Enjoy them all
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1593527/watercooled-4x-980ti-phanteks-enthoo-primo


4x wow and the strong commitment to no non-sense black is intense


----------



## Joe88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> If you use / are using PSU power to the fan hub, you do not need to worry about the 0.25A load of fans. The hub is rated about 3amp with PSU power. That is one of the two great things about the Phantkes PWM controlled hub. It controls variable voltage fans and does it using PSU power. All the motherboard needs t supply is the PWM signal, and it would be almost impossible to damage the motherboard fan header doing that. PWM signal control is a strange beast. the 3.5v or 5v PWM control power is supply by fan, the PWM header controls the pulse of that power, which then signals the fan to pulse the 12v power to fan motor. In the PWM controlled hub this fan header pulse control give the hub what it need to control the 12v power it is getting from PSU so the 3-pin fans plugged into the hub have controlled speed. I know, it's a rather confusing control system.


Once I plug the sata connector in, all fan run at full rpm, thats why I was trying to stay away from it, its a bit on the noisy side, all fans were working fine and under load
gonna mess around with fan configuration more, gonna remove the 200mm and put two of the 120mm in its place and test gpu temps and such, that should also drop the amps to 1.15A on the header

edit: ok so I did that above, and gpu temps went up 5c-7c while cpu temps went down 4c


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Joe88*
> 
> Once I plug the sata connector in, all fan run at full rpm, thats why I was trying to stay away from it, its a bit on the noisy side, all fans were working fine and under load
> gonna mess around with fan configuration more, gonna remove the 200mm and put two of the 120mm in its place and test gpu temps and such, that should also drop the amps to 1.15A on the header
> 
> edit: ok so I did that above, and gpu temps went up 5c-7c while cpu temps went down 4c


You do not have PWM fan control from motherboard. Either CPU opt is not PWM or it is not set PWM in bios.

Are the HDD cages removed? Keep in mind 2x 140mm = 3x 120mm fans. What speed are fans running when and what load at what temps?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smicha*
> 
> 
> 
> Enjoy them all
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1593527/watercooled-4x-980ti-phanteks-enthoo-primo


Nice build.!


----------



## AlDyer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> You do not have PWM fan control from motherboard. Either CPU opt is not PWM or it is not set PWM in bios.
> 
> Are the HDD cages removed? Keep in mind 2x 140mm = 3x 120mm fans. What speed are fans running when and what load at what temps?
> Nice build.!


Damn nice


----------



## 19DELTASNAFU

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> it's totally fine even with the media bays removed..my pro (same chassis) ran that way for a year and I could move it without any panels with no issues....That said I never removed the full length panel you might need some bracing for that


Yeah, it's the full length panel that I'm wanting gone. I just want it open, there isn't a whole lot of space in the luxe anyway. If I could get it opened up it might just give the right look of not crowding and not a bunch of empty space. Heck, as much money as I have in the cooling parts/pumps and reservoirs I might as well start looking at case labs for the build. I should have done more research on the luxe. If you google enthoo luxe custom build pics there isn't many. I bet pro builders don't chose it because of that big plate and when you remove it the back panel has just a big hole you have to cover with white plexi which is VERY expensive. Just an FYI of anyone out there going to do a custom build, the enthoo luxe is not a "great" choice, there are many better options. For a single loop it would be ok, not for a double or even a triple.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AlDyer*
> 
> Damn nice


Nothing fancy,jbut very clean application of components resulting in smooth clean lines and symmetry ..
The way one GPU power cable plug loops over the other cables at each PCB header.
The hoses perfect length giving clean lines and symmetry.
Stock cables, yet nice clean lines throughout


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Nothing fancy,jbut very clean application of components resulting in smooth clean lines and symmetry ..
> The way one GPU power cable plug loops over the other cables at each PCB header.
> The hoses perfect length giving clean lines and symmetry.
> Stock cables, yet nice clean lines throughout


EVGA makes using the stock cables a far easier decision. BQ is going the same route and eliminating all color from their cables.

When you shell out top dollar for a PU, it should come with top quality cables like EVGA and BQ. The flat cables should throw up a huge red flag on a PSU purchase. If they are skimping on something you can see with the cheapest possible alternative, one can only imagine what is going on inside that PSU.....


----------



## paskowitz

Still no word in regards to the release date of the tempered glass Evolv ATX?


----------



## Akhenaton

Hi guys, the Enthoo Luxe manual says that is possible to install two 140mm fans on the front, but is not possible to install a 280mm radiator (max 240).

Why? What is the problem?


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Akhenaton*
> 
> Hi guys, the Enthoo Luxe manual says that is possible to install two 140mm fans on the front, but is not possible to install a 280mm radiator (max 240).
> 
> Why? What is the problem?


because while two 140 mm fans measures exactly 280 mm in length, a 280 rad measures at least 312 mm in length (the smallest ones I know of are 312 mm, most are longer) and the case only has 315 mm of space front the floor to the optical drive bays. simply put, there isn't enough space for 99.99% of the 280 rads in existence because "280" is merely a size standard that tells which size fans (140 mm) are compatible with the radiator.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Akhenaton*
> 
> Hi guys, the Enthoo Luxe manual says that is possible to install two 140mm fans on the front, but is not possible to install a 280mm radiator (max 240).
> 
> Why? What is the problem?


2x 140mm fans are 280mm total. A 280mm radiator is 280mm of radiator plus the ends, making it at least 320 =mm long.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PureBlackFire*
> 
> because while two 140 mm fans measures exactly 280 mm in length, a 280 rad measures at least 312 mm in length (the smallest ones I know of are 312 mm, most are longer) and the case only has 315 mm of space front the floor to the optical drive bays. simply put, there isn't enough space for 99.99% of the 280 rads in existence because "280" is merely a size standard that tells which size fans (140 mm) are compatible with the radiator.


I removed the bays and could've put a 360 there but had my h220x there to make filling and bleeding easier...worked out as the window developed a crack so it didn't leak on anything vital and I ran it that way for months topping it off with a dish rag laid under it to catch drops...while running it wouldn't leak but the water stopped moving it would leak around an ounce...


----------



## Akhenaton

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PureBlackFire*
> 
> because while two 140 mm fans measures exactly 280 mm in length, a 280 rad measures at least 312 mm in length (the smallest ones I know of are 312 mm, most are longer) and the case only has 315 mm of space front the floor to the optical drive bays. simply put, there isn't enough space for 99.99% of the 280 rads in existence because "280" is merely a size standard that tells which size fans (140 mm) are compatible with the radiator.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> 2x 140mm fans are 280mm total. A 280mm radiator is 280mm of radiator plus the ends, making it at least 320 =mm long.


Thanks, I did not think about it


----------



## iammurphy

For the evolv atx does anyone have a solution to lower temps with the top on? I read about the temperature decrease on here when removing it. I removed the lid while playing the division and saw a 10c drop on my gpu and 13c on my cpu, Never thought it would be that big of a difference.

My hardware is : 5930k @ 4.3ghz 1.21v, 980 ti @ 1450mhz 8000mem all cooled by an ekwb predator 360. Fans at 50%


----------



## michael-ocn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iammurphy*
> 
> For the evolv atx does anyone have a solution to lower temps with the top on? I read about the temperature decrease on here when removing it. I removed the lid while playing the division and saw a 10c drop on my gpu and 13c on my cpu, Never thought it would be that big of a difference.
> 
> My hardware is : 5930k @ 4.3ghz 1.21v, 980 ti @ 1450mhz 8000mem all cooled by an ekwb predator 360. Fans at 50%


Airflow must be awful. Are you setup to intake or exhaust at the top and how are the front and back case fans setup?

The top is very restrictive, obviously. Given how tight it is up there, i don't think a 360 is a good idea for this case. It fills all gaps in the mounting bracket, so all intake(or exhaust depending) must go thru the tiny vents on the top, and that's a tight squeeze. With a smaller rad up there, airflow can be arranged to draw air up or (push air down) thru the unfilled gaps in the panel, so you can rely on intake primarily from the front panel and exhaust primarily out the back of the case. But that's not an option with a 360 in the roof. For that to work, ultimately you need more air to flow thru the top. Two ideas about that...

* cut some vents or blowholes
* install spacers so the top doesn't sit flush on the base, have it set a little higher leaving a gap, maybe a 5 to 10 mm, all around.

Another option is to pitch the 360 and get a 280 plus a second 140.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iammurphy*
> 
> For the evolv atx does anyone have a solution to lower temps with the top on? I read about the temperature decrease on here when removing it. I removed the lid while playing the division and saw a 10c drop on my gpu and 13c on my cpu, Never thought it would be that big of a difference.
> 
> My hardware is : 5930k @ 4.3ghz 1.21v, 980 ti @ 1450mhz 8000mem all cooled by an ekwb predator 360. Fans at 50%


I'm really confounded by this. Not in that taking the top off yields lower temps, but in that it seems to have such a drastic affect on 360mm EK Predators specifically. I am running a single HWL Nemesis 360GTS with F120MP in push. If I take my top off, I get ~2-3 degree drop, which seems to be the norm for those not using Predators.

There is _something_ that is specifically wonky with Predators.....but what?


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iammurphy*
> 
> For the evolv atx does anyone have a solution to lower temps with the top on? I read about the temperature decrease on here when removing it. I removed the lid while playing the division and saw a 10c drop on my gpu and 13c on my cpu, Never thought it would be that big of a difference.
> 
> My hardware is : 5930k @ 4.3ghz 1.21v, 980 ti @ 1450mhz 8000mem all cooled by an ekwb predator 360. Fans at 50%


Some good answers.








I've found with mine, just setting top on it's latches more than doubles the vent / airflow area of the top.
Simple math;
The area of the slots on sides of top is 30.5sq cm, but these vents have a fine round hole mesh that is blocking about 40% of their area resulting in about 18 sq cm. We can add 12sq cm in front and probalby 20sq cm in back vent for a total of about *50 sq cm* total top vent / airflow area..

Additional vent / airflow area created by raising the top .6cm so we have a .5cm gap around the 23.6x52.7cm size of top is 152.6cm x .5 is [U*]76.3 sq cm* increased vent / airflow area[/U]

This give top 126.3sq cm vent / airflow area.

50 to 126 is over 250% increase is vent / airflow area.


----------



## ITAngel

For how small this case is Phanteks Enthoo Pro M, I was able to pretty much fit a lot into it.







since I only have a 240mm rad curious if there is a way to fix a 3rd fan into the system on the front?


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ITAngel*
> 
> For how small this case is Phanteks Enthoo Pro M, I was able to pretty much fit a lot into it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> since I only have a 240mm rad curious if there is a way to fix a 3rd fan into the system on the front?


Looks like you need to remove the midplate and move the radiator either up or down, depending on where you want it in order to clear. Manual states you need to remove it for a 360mm radiator, so it looks like you need remove it to give you the room for an additional fan.


----------



## ITAngel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rfarmer*
> 
> Looks like you need to remove the midplate and move the radiator either up or down, depending on where you want it in order to clear. Manual states you need to remove it for a 360mm radiator, so it looks like you need remove it to give you the room for an additional fan.


I see thanks, will have to figure it out and see what would be best to do. XD


----------



## smithydan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iammurphy*
> 
> For the evolv atx does anyone have a solution to lower temps with the top on? I read about the temperature decrease on here when removing it. I removed the lid while playing the division and saw a 10c drop on my gpu and 13c on my cpu, Never thought it would be that big of a difference.
> 
> My hardware is : 5930k @ 4.3ghz 1.21v, 980 ti @ 1450mhz 8000mem all cooled by an ekwb predator 360. Fans at 50%


Could try putting the predator in the front.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ITAngel*
> 
> For how small this case is Phanteks Enthoo Pro M, I was able to pretty much fit a lot into it.
> 
> since I only have a 240mm rad curious if there is a way to fix a 3rd fan into the system on the front?


You can remove the midplate and drop the radiator to the bottom, and then put a third fan above the radiator.
Or, if you turn the radiator to have the tubes at the bottom, and raise it as high as possible, you will _probably_ be able to fit a fan below it.

If you are simply looking to get some air moving over your HDDs, you can bracket in a 92mm at the bottom with the radiator where it is.


----------



## ITAngel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> You can remove the midplate and drop the radiator to the bottom, and then put a third fan above the radiator.
> Or, if you turn the radiator to have the tubes at the bottom, and raise it as high as possible, you will _probably_ be able to fit a fan below it.
> 
> If you are simply looking to get some air moving over your HDDs, you can bracket in a 92mm at the bottom with the radiator where it is.


Oh good idea on the 92mm fan down there might look into that that and see. I think the hard drives will be okay was just curious if I could add another fan or not with out moving the rad but it looks like your advice might work out better for that. XD


----------



## iammurphy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smithydan*
> 
> Could try putting the predator in the front.




But it looks so good the way it is


----------



## Joe88

speaking of that
would the predator 360 fit in the top of the enthoo pro?
I know im gonna lose an external bay but im more concerned if its gonna hit the motherboard vrm heatsink and or cpu power cable


----------



## 19DELTASNAFU

The EK Predator looks like a great option and yes, it will fit if you have low profile ram. But on some of the discussions earlier on this page about high temps with the Predator there is a reason why. The predator has a very high FPI (cooling fins per inch) which basically only allows as much air as the fans can push minus some for the restriction of the fins. What this gives you if your case has no other vents is basically a solid top to your case concerning internal case temp which will lead to higher "ambient" temps. You need to figure out how to get more outside air into the case or increase your fan speed. I think in the case of the Predator in small form factor cases you should have all fans (except fans on rads) blowing into the case and those fans should be SP fans not airflow. You need higher case pressure with lots of outside air to increase the Predator fans ability to pull the air out through all those fins. The guy running the nemesis does not have the same problem because he has a lot less FPI on that rad. EK designed the predator to cool an entire PC with dual GPUs, motherbord, cpu and anything else and it will but with any restriction at all and the single fans pulling through the HIGH FPI rad loses it's efficiency. With your setup you need to pressurize your case, you have five fans blowing outward. Sounds like your gonna need a little modding to get the most out of the Predator. It looks to me like there is room to mount some slim 14mm fans under the top cover. You're computer looks great so you have plenty of skill to do a simple mod to the case top. I specifically chose the Luxe because of the top. Inside there will be a 360 with fans but under the top cover there will be 4 140mm fans. All you need is a couple of these for Bill Owen and a dremel.

http://mnpctech.com/pc-computer-cooling-fans-grills-custom/modders-mesh-pc-fan-grills-en/modders-mesh-pc-fan-grills.html

There only 4.99 each and look GREAT. Every water cooling enthusiast needs to be a modding enthusiast too. hehe. Lord knows the perfect case has yet to be built............. and never will.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Joe88*
> 
> speaking of that
> would the predator 360 fit in the top of the enthoo pro?
> I know im gonna lose an external bay but im more concerned if its gonna hit the motherboard vrm heatsink and or cpu power cable


The Swiftech H240-X2 fits like a glove in the Pro. It also happens to have better performance, is quieter, has a stronger pump for expansion, is quite a bit better looking and is less expensive. Just sayin'.....


----------



## Joe88

I remember reading in a bunch of places that the swiftech aio suffers from low quality components
most of it being pump failure

its does look a lot nicer with clear tubing and option to dye the liquid and built in led's, but I do like the predator for its seamless gpu expansion (just buy a full cover block with the predator option)


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Joe88*
> 
> I remember reading in a bunch of places that the swiftech aio suffers from low quality components
> most of it being pump failure
> 
> its does look a lot nicer with clear tubing and option to dye the liquid and built in led's, but I do like the predator for its seamless gpu expansion (just buy a full cover block with the predator option)


I guess you need to define what you mean by 'low quality components'. The component Swiftech puts into their AIO cooler is night and day better than what goes into CLC coolers. I'm not going into detail. You can look that up for yourself if you want the facts .. but look deeper than you did before making your statement above. What you posted above is half truths and rumors that make it sound much worse than it is or was. Yes, they have had some problems. So has EK. Ek had to recall their first release of Predator. They also had to recall a bucn of the EK Vardar fans. And we are only talking about problems in recent months.

Swiftech is selling their AIOs so fast they never have any in stock for more than a couple weeks .. and always have people hollering and howling for more in other parts of the world. Any company trying to keep up with that kind of demand is likely to have some quality control problems along with growth problems trying to keep up with everything.

My understand of EK and Swiftech is to date Swiftech has as good if not better quality control, and for sure better customer support. But how each does in the future remains to be seen.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Joe88*
> 
> I remember reading in a bunch of places that the swiftech aio suffers from low quality components
> most of it being pump failure
> 
> its does look a lot nicer with clear tubing and option to dye the liquid and built in led's, but I do like the predator for its seamless gpu expansion (just buy a full cover block with the predator option)


The pump failure issues were on the original H220, which was two generations ago...and it was on the first rev. The issue was addressed, changes made and the X and X2 series have an incredibly low failure rate.

The plug and play expansion is nice, but it also pigeonholes you into buying a specific block rather than choosing the one you actually want. Personally, I find it worth an hour of my time to add the GPU and get the block I want.


----------



## sav4

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Joe88*
> 
> I remember reading in a bunch of places that the swiftech aio suffers from low quality components
> most of it being pump failure
> 
> its does look a lot nicer with clear tubing and option to dye the liquid and built in led's, but I do like the predator for its seamless gpu expansion (just buy a full cover block with the predator option)


Swiftech as the guys above mentioned is great quality as is ek you can't go wrong with either comes down to price and what you like the look of . Swiftech is great bang for buck , ek is expensive . My 2cents ?


----------



## doyll

Anyone complaining about Swiftech and/or EK quality and customer support should try dealing with Corsair and other CLC suppliers with a problem. 'Backpedaling' and 'eye-opener' come to mind.


----------



## ITAngel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Anyone complaining about Swiftech and/or EK quality and customer support should try dealing with Corsair and other CLC suppliers with a problem. 'Backpedaling' and 'eye-opener' come to mind.


I have had good experience with EK so far can't speak about Swiftech but EK, EVGA, AsRock so far solid customer support to me.


----------



## Akhenaton

Has anyone ever tried to reproduce the Primo's reservoir mounting in a Luxe/Pro?


----------



## ITAngel

Question, anyone in here has the biggest possible EATX motherboard installed on the Pro M case? I curious to see what is the begets you can put in this case. I want to upgrade my mATX motherboard and trying to see a few options but I think they are way to large. For example;

1. EVGA X99 Classified
2. ASRock X99 OC FORMULA
3. ASUS ROG RAMPAGE V EXTREME
4. Asrock Fatal1ty X99 Professional
5. MSI X99A Godlike Gaming Carbon
6. GIGABYTE GA-X99-Gaming G1 WIFI

Thanks if you have any of those boards install can you show some pictures I am curious about the clearance. Thanks!


----------



## Joe88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> The pump failure issues were on the original H220, which was two generations ago...and it was on the first rev. The issue was addressed, changes made and the X and X2 series have an incredibly low failure rate.
> 
> The plug and play expansion is nice, but it also pigeonholes you into buying a specific block rather than choosing the one you actually want. Personally, I find it worth an hour of my time to add the GPU and get the block I want.


Good to know they sorted out the problems
I was gonna buy an ek block anyway and it just so happens the only 390 full cover block they make is for the msi 390/390x

though another problem is the swiftech isnt reversible so the tubing comes out near the rear exhaust to eliminate any more loss of external bays
I guess you try could flip it around but its not gonna look pretty anymore, and the res is probably not gonna allow it to be mounted that way

I'm pretty sure I would need to get the H320 X2 or Predator 360 to cool both a 5820k and r9 390 both with heavy overclocks


----------



## sav4

Does anyone know if these will work in a luxe ?

https://www.pccasegear.com/products/30487/phanteks-enthoo-mini-primo-3-5in-hdd-bracket


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sav4*
> 
> Does anyone know if these will work in a luxe ?
> 
> https://www.pccasegear.com/products/30487/phanteks-enthoo-mini-primo-3-5in-hdd-bracket


nope, not compatible.


----------



## sav4

Ok thanks ?


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Slight miscalculation on my part....sigh....so it's either wait on more fittings or run with one pump and not use the h220x until I can afford to buy all the fittings to do it properly...

Fur some reason I thought the res bracket was offset to the front...durr...


----------



## thenewguyltt

Hi guys







I'm planning to buy an Evolv ATX and build a custom loop in it, CPU only (for now







). Obviously, the paint scheme is going to be silver/white (Silver Evolv, Asus Z170S..







)

My plan is to use the following components:

Alphacool NexXxos UT60 360 in the roof with eLoop B12-2
EK Supremacy Nickel Plexi
EK D5 X-Res 140

I'm pretty sure all that should fit (right?). The big question is, how do I mount the res/pump combo? I was planning on using the pump bracket but it seems that won't work, I would have to mount the pump in such a way that the res would be horizontal, which I don't want. Could I mount the pump/res into the screwholes for the HDD cages? Does the D5 fit there?

Any and all advice highly appreciated, thanks























Edit:
I may have found a solution myself but I'm not confident in my Google-Fu so I'd still appreciate one of you experienced guys having a look







The following combination of D5 and res should work fine mounted onto the pump bracket, right?

D5 with top
Reservoir (attaches on top, see third pic)


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thenewguyltt*
> 
> Hi guys
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm planning to buy an Evolv ATX and build a custom loop in it, CPU only (for now
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ). Obviously, the paint scheme is going to be silver/white (Silver Evolv, Asus Z170S..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )
> 
> My plan is to use the following components:
> 
> Alphacool NexXxos UT60 360 in the roof with eLoop B12-2
> EK Supremacy Nickel Plexi
> EK D5 X-Res 140
> 
> I'm pretty sure all that should fit (right?). The big question is, how do I mount the res/pump combo? I was planning on using the pump bracket but it seems that won't work, I would have to mount the pump in such a way that the res would be horizontal, which I don't want. Could I mount the pump/res into the screwholes for the HDD cages? Does the D5 fit there?
> 
> Any and all advice highly appreciated, thanks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Edit:
> I may have found a solution myself but I'm not confident in my Google-Fu so I'd still appreciate one of you experienced guys having a look
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The following combination of D5 and res should work fine mounted onto the pump bracket, right?
> 
> D5 with top
> Reservoir (attaches on top, see third pic)


You can easily mount that pump to the included pump mount, which will then screw into the bottom of the case where the HDD cage was. You can also simply mount it to the mid plate if you want to see the pump in the build.

The UT60 is another matter....it's a bad choice for the case. When you outfit it with the push/pull, you are looking at a 115mm deep behemoth that will literally hang below the fittings on your CPU block. So, you won't see that pretty all nickel block, and connections won't be fun.

In a CPU only, or CPU + GPU, you are far better off with something like the HWL 360GTS. It fits properly, and provides plenty of cooling power in this scenario with only one set of eLoops. In a CPU only loop, you will see no difference in performance between the two. In CPU+GPU (one GPU), the difference would be incredibly minimal.


----------



## thenewguyltt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> You can easily mount that pump to the included pump mount, which will then screw into the bottom of the case where the HDD cage was. You can also simply mount it to the mid plate if you want to see the pump in the build.
> 
> The UT60 is another matter....it's a bad choice for the case. When you outfit it with the push/pull, you are looking at a 115mm deep behemoth that will literally hang below the fittings on your CPU block. So, you won't see that pretty all nickel block, and connections won't be fun.
> 
> In a CPU only, or CPU + GPU, you are far better off with something like the HWL 360GTS. It fits properly, and provides plenty of cooling power in this scenario with only one set of eLoops. In a CPU only loop, you will see no difference in performance between the two. In CPU+GPU (one GPU), the difference would be incredibly minimal.


Hey, thanks for the advice







Ok so I didn't realize the EK D5 comes with a bracket, in that case that will be my choice of pump.

Good call on the UT60, I didn't realize it would overhang the CPU. Do you know how much space there is roughly? Would a 45 with one set of fans fit? Otherwise I'll just go with 30mm like you recommended, I would like a 45 though if it fits.

Can you install fans ontop of the fan bracket so that they are in the roof, pulling air up?


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thenewguyltt*
> 
> Hey, thanks for the advice
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok so I didn't realize the EK D5 comes with a bracket, in that case that will be my choice of pump.
> 
> Good call on the UT60, I didn't realize it would overhang the CPU. Do you know how much space there is roughly? Would a 45 with one set of fans fit? Otherwise I'll just go with 30mm like you recommended, I would like a 45 though if it fits.
> 
> Can you install fans ontop of the fan bracket so that they are in the roof, pulling air up?


You could simplify your life immeasurably by using a pump/res combo, and simply using the res mounts. I went through a number of combinations until I finally gave up and went that route. Couldn't be happier that I did.

One physically _could_ install fans on top.....they will simply kill your airflow since they will be against the solid top, and will also weaken the chassis. The answer there is simply "don't do it".

Take a look at this - http://www.xtremerigs.net/2015/02/11/radiator-round-2015/5/
You need to do a little rad homework. The 360GTS outperforms the XT45, and is a much nicer rad as far as build and finish. Alphacools were a great choice a few years ago, but other manufacturers improved and they didn't. At this point, they are essentially rads with bad finishes, sometimes awful issues with residue out of the box and mediocre performance. That said, the XT45 with one set of fans would just clear your CPU block - just don't forget to order Mayhems Blitz along with it, and be prepared for a possibly long cleaning process. It's a shame that it is very difficult to see and touch parts firsthand without ordering them - I guarantee that if you had an HWL and Alphacool in your hands you would be choosing the HWL.


----------



## bmt22033

I just built a new Skylake system in the Evolv ATX case. This build is so quiet that I can actually hear some slight vibration from my 7200 RPM HDD when it's spinning (it's mounted in the top HDD tray). It's faint but just loud enough to be irritating. Does anyone have any suggestions on how I can dampen this sound? I had considered installing the drive in one of the HDD brackets (and I may try that yet) but I was hoping to keep the airflow to my CPU/GPU as open as possible which is why I chose the HDD tray to begin with. Thanks for any ideas!


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bmt22033*
> 
> I just built a new Skylake system in the Evolv ATX case. This build is so quiet that I can actually hear some slight vibration from my 7200 RPM HDD when it's spinning (it's mounted in the top HDD tray). It's faint but just loud enough to be irritating. Does anyone have any suggestions on how I can dampen this sound? I had considered installing the drive in one of the HDD brackets (and I may try that yet) but I was hoping to keep the airflow to my CPU/GPU as open as possible which is why I chose the HDD tray to begin with. Thanks for any ideas!


If you are using only a single drive, you can try the optional HDD mount that mounts just in front of the PSU - http://www.phanteksusa.com/products/phanteks-hdd-bracket

I have the same issue, but my data drives sleep most of the time, so it hasn't really been a bother.


----------



## thenewguyltt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> You could simplify your life immeasurably by using a pump/res combo, and simply using the res mounts. I went through a number of combinations until I finally gave up and went that route. Couldn't be happier that I did.
> 
> One physically _could_ install fans on top.....they will simply kill your airflow since they will be against the solid top, and will also weaken the chassis. The answer there is simply "don't do it".
> 
> Take a look at this - http://www.xtremerigs.net/2015/02/11/radiator-round-2015/5/
> You need to do a little rad homework. The 360GTS outperforms the XT45, and is a much nicer rad as far as build and finish. Alphacools were a great choice a few years ago, but other manufacturers improved and they didn't. At this point, they are essentially rads with bad finishes, sometimes awful issues with residue out of the box and mediocre performance. That said, the XT45 with one set of fans would just clear your CPU block - just don't forget to order Mayhems Blitz along with it, and be prepared for a possibly long cleaning process. It's a shame that it is very difficult to see and touch parts firsthand without ordering them - I guarantee that if you had an HWL and Alphacool in your hands you would be choosing the HWL.


Ok, fans on top is out. That radiator test is very informative. It seems the HW Labs are all really good, however, they are somewhat difficult to get where I am. But if you think it's worth the trouble I will order a GTS 360 from the UK (am in Germany). The only rad that seems to be decent in that test, lower than 45mm and available here is the EK Coolstream PE. But that would be pretty much as expensive as the GTS 360 would be including shipping from UK. Just less of a hassle to get...


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thenewguyltt*
> 
> Ok, fans on top is out. That radiator test is very informative. It seems the HW Labs are all really good, however, they are somewhat difficult to get where I am. But if you think it's worth the trouble I will order a GTS 360 from the UK (am in Germany). The only rad that seems to be decent in that test, lower than 45mm and available here is the EK Coolstream PE. But that would be pretty much as expensive as the GTS 360 would be including shipping from UK. Just less of a hassle to get...


Personally, I would go through the trouble to get the HWL. But, that is just me. I don't have anything bad to say about the EK, but it didn't really stand out when I tested it, either.


----------



## thenewguyltt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Personally, I would go through the trouble to get the HWL. But, that is just me. I don't have anything bad to say about the EK, but it didn't really stand out when I tested it, either.


Ok, thanks for all the help!


----------



## sav4

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Personally, I would go through the trouble to get the HWL. But, that is just me. I don't have anything bad to say about the EK, but it didn't really stand out when I tested it, either.


Similar performance ? Do they have the same fpi ?


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sav4*
> 
> Similar performance ? Do they have the same fpi ?


Almost identical performance and the 360GTS is 10mm thinner - http://www.xtremerigs.net/2015/02/11/radiator-round-2015/5/

The 360 GTS is 16 fpi, the EK PE is 19 fpi.


----------



## SolidSnakeUS

Does anyone else have it where, on the Evolv ATX, you can't put in any headphones into the front port? It will only go part of the way in and then stop, where it's not connected. And I've tried with multiple headphones too.


----------



## Joe88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SolidSnakeUS*
> 
> Does anyone else have it where, on the Evolv ATX, you can't put in any headphones into the front port? It will only go part of the way in and then stop, where it's not connected. And I've tried with multiple headphones too.


you have to push pretty hard, same thing on the pro and I assume all their cases


----------



## SolidSnakeUS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Joe88*
> 
> you have to push pretty hard, same thing on the pro and I assume all their cases


What was worse was that I had to use more force to get the plug out...


----------



## sav4

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Almost identical performance and the 360GTS is 10mm thinner - http://www.xtremerigs.net/2015/02/11/radiator-round-2015/5/
> 
> The 360 GTS is 16 fpi, the EK PE is 19 fpi.


Thank you for the info much appreciated .


----------



## Ubbidude

Never knew this thread existed, here is my enthoo luxe



http://imgur.com/hUfcLXa



Rigbuilder didnt have all the correct parts in it so i tried my best http://www.overclock.net/lists/display/view/id/6485507


----------



## flynna3162581

seriously thinking of watercooling my evolv ITX but i am not sure about the res/pump placement due to the sheer size of the gap between the rop rad and the bracket.... looking for a pump/res combo that would possibily fit in that space .....i had thought about the bitspower minitank and a ddc pump but dont want it to be cramped


----------



## NucelarGen1




----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NucelarGen1*


Very nice, I like the gpu backplates. Are they custom?


----------



## flynna3162581

i have custom backplates for my gtx 970s as well... but the place/guy i got mine from had to close business


----------



## Ubbidude

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rfarmer*
> 
> Very nice, I like the gpu backplates. Are they custom?


v1tech and coldzero.eu make custom backplates


----------



## michael-ocn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ubbidude*
> 
> Never knew this thread existed, here is my enthoo luxe
> 
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/hUfcLXa
> 
> 
> 
> Rigbuilder didnt have all the correct parts in it so i tried my best http://www.overclock.net/lists/display/view/id/6485507


Very nice and tidy.

You can put your rig in your sig too, go to your profile page, scroll down and to "Your Forum Signature", hit the edit sig link and in the bottom of the dialog that comes up, there's an option to "Show off stuff" in your signature. You can add the rig there.


----------



## sav4

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ubbidude*
> 
> Never knew this thread existed, here is my enthoo luxe
> 
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/hUfcLXa
> 
> 
> 
> Rigbuilder didnt have all the correct parts in it so i tried my best http://www.overclock.net/lists/display/view/id/6485507


Nice build ?


----------



## FastRedPonyCar

I finished up a new build last week for an office PC using the EVOLV ATX case.

Very impressed with how it all turned out and how easy the EVOLV was to build in. Not really surprised though given how great my Primo was. I expected nothing less and Phanteks delivered.

Specs:

- EVOVL ATX Case
- i5 4690k @ 4.4ghz
- ASUS Grypon Z87 Mobo
- Gigabyte 970 Xtreme @ 1540 mhz
- 16 gigs Kingston Hyper X Fury 1866
- 256 gig Kingston Hyper X SSD
- 4 TB WD Black HDD
- 500 gig WD Black HDD
- Noctua D15 w/Phanteks 140mm fans
- PC Power & Cooling 910w (Non Modular) PSU

I had some of the 3M carbon fiber wrap left over from my Primo build so I used a couple strips of that on the top and bottom of the front panel for some accents.

Definitely my last build using a non modular PSU. UGHHHH


----------



## ITAngel

Hi there FastRedPonyCar; That looks pretty nice and clean! Good Job!







I may someday buy that same case. I have the Pro M version of that case.

Here is non-water cooled (Currently)


Here is water-cooled (Before I remove the loop to change the pump)


Pending the new pump should be here next week and the loop will go back-up and I did remove the DVD drive cage out to see if i can force to run 3 fans with my 240mm rad on the front.


----------



## flynna3162581

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ITAngel*
> 
> Hi there FastRedPonyCar; That looks pretty nice and clean! Good Job!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I may someday buy that same case. I have the Pro M version of that case.
> 
> Here is non-water cooled (Currently)
> 
> 
> Here is water-cooled (Before I remove the loop to change the pump)
> 
> 
> Pending the new pump should be here next week and the loop will go back-up and I did remove the DVD drive cage out to see if i can force to run 3 fans with my 240mm rad on the front.


the pump looks fine .... maybe a bigger res would be better


----------



## flynna3162581

changed out the fans to thermaltake RIING rgb fans .... now trying to get smaller stand off rings for my gpu so i can have both back plates on it



at the moment i am only rocking the black backplate tryin to find thinner clear stand offs so can have both red/black


----------



## ITAngel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *flynna3162581*
> 
> the pump looks fine .... maybe a bigger res would be better


Thanks actually I have a bigger one to use since I removed the dvd drive cage.


----------



## doyll

Why bigger reservoir? What does more reserve accomplish? Granted, it will take longer for coolant to equalize system cooling ability, but overall cooling ability is the same, and unless system leaks there is no need for any 'reserve' coolant. I haven't used H2O in donkey years, but things haven't changed much other than some improvements in waterblocks and cosmetics.
Not saying it's wrong, just curious why.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ITAngel*
> 
> Hi there FastRedPonyCar; That looks pretty nice and clean! Good Job!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I may someday buy that same case. I have the Pro M version of that case.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Here is non-water cooled (Currently)
> 
> 
> Here is water-cooled (Before I remove the loop to change the pump)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Pending the new pump should be here next week and the loop will go back-up and I did remove the DVD drive cage out to see if i can force to run 3 fans with my 240mm rad on the front.


Case looks to be pretty well optimized for air as it is setup now. Could you please tell us how much difference the temps now on air compared to what it was with water cooling?


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Why bigger reservoir? What does more reserve accomplish? Granted, it will take longer for coolant to equalize system cooling ability, but overall cooling ability is the same, and unless system leaks there is no need for any 'reserve' coolant. I haven't used H2O in donkey years, but things haven't changed much other than some improvements in waterblocks and cosmetics.
> Not saying it's wrong, just curious why.


Just the look. There is no other reason. I'm guilty of it, too.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Just the look. There is no other reason. I'm guilty of it, too.


Guilty doesn't make it wrong.









There are some situations where the reserve level can make a big difference. Not so much in cooling but in lubrication. Race engines often have large oil reserves to supply lubrication when gravity fails to return oil properly. Off-road cars and acrobatic aircraft are good examples of this.


----------



## kcuestag

The Enthoo Luxe is really starting to grow on me, but I've seen it on two different pricings:

159€ -> https://www.caseking.de/en/phanteks-enthoo-luxe-midi-tower-schwarz-geph-006.html
189€ -> https://www.caseking.de/en/phanteks-enthoo-luxe-midi-tower-schwarz-gedaemmt-geck-320.html

Any idea what the differences are between those two?


----------



## Duality92

I just ordered the grey P400. I just couldn't refrain myself from getting a 12th case, it's so pretty. I can't wait to get my hands on it to start building!


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> The Enthoo Luxe is really starting to grow on me, but I've seen it on two different pricings:
> 
> 159€ -> https://www.caseking.de/en/phanteks-enthoo-luxe-midi-tower-schwarz-geph-006.html
> 189€ -> https://www.caseking.de/en/phanteks-enthoo-luxe-midi-tower-schwarz-gedaemmt-geck-320.html
> 
> Any idea what the differences are between those two?


If I am reading the translation correctly, the second has aftermarket noise insulation added.


----------



## KaffieneKing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> The Enthoo Luxe is really starting to grow on me, but I've seen it on two different pricings:
> 
> 159€ -> https://www.caseking.de/en/phanteks-enthoo-luxe-midi-tower-schwarz-geph-006.html
> 189€ -> https://www.caseking.de/en/phanteks-enthoo-luxe-midi-tower-schwarz-gedaemmt-geck-320.html
> 
> Any idea what the differences are between those two?


I think some modding service, but seeing as I dont speak German I have no idea


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> If I am reading the translation correctly, the second has aftermarket noise insulation added.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaffieneKing*
> 
> I think some modding service, but seeing as I dont speak German I have no idea


Thanks guys. I don't speak german either, but it looks like it is indeed the noise insulation.

I read somewhere that Phanteks was adding tempered glass to it's window instead of acrylic glass, Is this true? Should I wait for that version?

The Enthoo Luxe is definitely my choice, I fell in love with it.


----------



## doyll

Yes, indeed it's the dampen vs normal case:
159.90€ = Case type = Dampened case, Midi-Tower
189.90€ = Case type = Midi-Tower

I've used dampened cases (Fractal Design and Nanoxia) and am presently using Enthoo Luxe and Enthoo Evolv. They Phanteks are just as 'quiet' to my ears. I still hear my HDDs.


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Yes, indeed it's the dampen vs normal case:
> 159.90€ = Case type = Dampened case, Midi-Tower
> 189.90€ = Case type = Midi-Tower
> 
> I've used dampened cases (Fractal Design and Nanoxia) and am presently using Enthoo Luxe and Enthoo Evolv. They Phanteks are just as 'quiet' to my ears. I still hear my HDDs.


Any idea about the tempered glass? I read it on a youtube comment, not sure how reliable that can be.


----------



## thenewguyltt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> If I am reading the translation correctly, the second has aftermarket noise insulation added.


Correct, "gedämmt" means insulated (in this case against noise).


----------



## Duality92

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> Any idea about the tempered glass? I read it on a youtube comment, not sure how reliable that can be.


I doubt Phantek is using tempered glass. That's InWin caliber lol


----------



## thenewguyltt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> Any idea about the tempered glass? I read it on a youtube comment, not sure how reliable that can be.


They showed a tempered glass version which should (hopefully) be coming soon


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Duality92*
> 
> I doubt Phantek is using tempered glass. That's InWin caliber lol


They are. No doubting it.


----------



## Duality92

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> They are. No doubting it.


I'll have to go deeper!


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> Any idea about the tempered glass? I read it on a youtube comment, not sure how reliable that can be.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thenewguyltt*
> 
> They showed a tempered glass version which should (hopefully) be coming soon


I have been told Primo Evolv ATX is to have a tempered glass version released. It was shown at CES 2016. How soon it will be released I don't know. There are so many possible things that can (and do) extend projected release dates it is unbelievable. Add the domino effect of all the different production, assembly, shipping, etc. scheduling involved and a 1 week delay can easily become a month or more. I've see simple changes is a product (round fan changing to square fan) take 4+months to get done after the fans are manufactured with delays in boxes, accessories, etc.
Anyone ever see "The Money Pit" ??
"Two weeks! No problem! Two weeks!"​


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> I have been told Primo Evolv ATX is to have a tempered glass version released. It was shown at CES 2016. How soon it will be released I don't know. There are so many possible things that can (and do) extend projected release dates it is unbelievable. Add the domino effect of all the different production, assembly, shipping, etc. scheduling involved and a 1 week delay can easily become a month or more. I've see simple changes is a product (round fan changing to square fan) take 4+months to get done after the fans are manufactured with delays in boxes, accessories, etc.
> Anyone ever see "The Money Pit" ??
> "Two weeks! No problem! Two weeks!"​


Oh well, I can't be bothered to wait, I just bought the Phanteks Enthoo Luxe!


----------



## ITAngel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Case looks to be pretty well optimized for air as it is setup now. Could you please tell us how much difference the temps now on air compared to what it was with water cooling?


Sure thing man, my room temps normally stay within the range of 68F-to-73F with an avg of 70F constant.

Under water 2 hours of gaming temps are as follow; 40C on the CPU and 40C on the GPU. (It stay constants doesn't fluctuate a lot)

and

On air 2 hours of gaming temps are as follow; 45C on the CPU and 75C on the GPU. (It fluctuate a lot on the CPU and GPU side depending on what is happening in the game.)

I been busy lately but I can start doing some intense testing on Sunday and that way I can do a comparison once my loop is back up and running at the middle of next week.









By the way finally put my two Gentle Tyhoon 2150rpm PWM fans and removed those generics. I have it now pushing 5x fans air in and 2x fan pushing air out.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> Oh well, I can't be bothered to wait, I just bought the Phanteks Enthoo Luxe!


You probably know I have a Luxe and Evolv ATX. Both are exceptionally well built.
Luxe needs PH-F200SP replaced with 2x PH-F140SP fans
Evolv ATX needs spaces on front to improve airflow .. and top if using a radiator
Both are good out of the box, but I'm a perfectionist.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ITAngel*
> 
> Sure thing man, my room temps normally stay within the range of 68F-to-73F with an avg of 70C constant.
> 
> Under water 2 hours of gaming temps are as follow; 40C on the CPU and 40C on the GPU. (It stay constants doesn't fluctuate a lot)
> 
> and
> 
> On air 2 hours of gaming temps are as follow; 45C on the CPU and 75C on the GPU. (It fluctuate a lot on the CPU and GPU side depending on what is happening in the game.)
> 
> I been busy lately but I can start doing some intense testing on Sunday and that way I can do a comparison once my loop is back up and running at the middle of next week.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> By the way finally put my two Gentle Tyhoon 2150rpm PWM fans and removed those generics. I have it now pushing 5x fans air in and 2x fan pushing air out.


Nothing wrong with those air temps and water are fantastic!









GTs are fantastic fans. no pun! I can't remember, do you have a bottom intake? .. with all PCIe slots open on the back for added exhaust flow from GPU?

If GPU was 10-15c lower there would be no reason to even consider water.


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> You probably know I have a Luxe and Evolv ATX. Both are exceptionally well built.
> Luxe needs PH-F200SP replaced with 2x PH-F140SP fans
> Evolv ATX needs spaces on front to improve airflow .. and top if using a radiator
> Both are good out of the box, but I'm a perfectionist.


Good to know, I got a few Corsair AF120 and AF140 White LED fans, I'll be using those likely to replace the front 200mm fan.


----------



## ITAngel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> You probably know I have a Luxe and Evolv ATX. Both are exceptionally well built.
> Luxe needs PH-F200SP replaced with 2x PH-F140SP fans
> Evolv ATX needs spaces on front to improve airflow .. and top if using a radiator
> Both are good out of the box, but I'm a perfectionist.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Nothing wrong with those air temps and water are fantastic!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> GTs are fantastic fans. no pun! I can't remember, do you have a bottom intake? .. with all PCIe slots open on the back for added exhaust flow from GPU?
> 
> If GPU was 10-15c lower there would be no reason to even consider water.


CPU and GPU are in stock mode not overclocked yet. These temps were taking whenever something extreme happen that will push the system and is when I take a look at the second monitor to see were the temps are. On avg air temps on the GPU stay within 68C-to-71C when there are no huge effects, particles etc happening. CPU also stay within 37C-to-40C on avg once again on light scenarios. I did notice last night by flipping the two top front fans as intake it drop the CPU degree by 1C or 2C. I didn't do any test to easily tell but it does make sense. The cool air drop my ceiling on top of that case right away being pulled into the case directly to the CPU. So it at least makes sense on that Theory but can't say for sure and I think I am adding positive pressure into the case now too.

I think I will record test on air this weekend and with it overclocked to 4.5Ghz on the CPU. I plan to do the same test using my waster looking loop and I plan to put a larger reservoir to the loop too so we will see. A good comparison with the same test will be interesting on an average 2hr gaming session or maybe AIDA64.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> Good to know, I got a few Corsair AF120 and AF140 White LED fans, I'll be using those likely to replace the front 200mm fan.


Hmmm....not sure that will be quite the same improvement as a pair of F140SP......

(I am sure, just being diplomatic)


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> Good to know, I got a few Corsair AF120 and AF140 White LED fans, I'll be using those likely to replace the front 200mm fan.


AF are both very poor performers, especially when dealing with filters and other resistance. You would be better off getting a single PH-F140SP and using it with the back exhaust as 2x front intakes.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ITAngel*
> 
> CPU and GPU are in stock mode not overclocked yet. These temps were taking whenever something extreme happen that will push the system and is when I take a look at the second monitor to see were the temps are. On avg air temps on the GPU stay within 68C-to-71C when there are no huge effects, particles etc happening. CPU also stay within 37C-to-40C on avg once again on light scenarios. I did notice last night by flipping the two top front fans as intake it drop the CPU degree by 1C or 2C. I didn't do any test to easily tell but it does make sense. The cool air drop my my ceiling on top of that case right away being pulled into the case directly to the CPU. So it at least makes sense on that Theory but can't say for sure and I think I am adding positive pressure into the case now.
> 
> I think I will record test on air this weekend and with it overclocked to 4.5Ghz on the CPU. I plan to do the same test using my waster looking loop and I plan to put a larger reservoir to the loop too so we will see. A good comparison with the same test will be interesting on an average 2hr gaming session or maybe AIDA64.


Larger res just means it will take longer for temps to equalize .. but they do look nice.









With air, if it takes for than a few minutes to reach peak temps under 100% load, it is likely the cool air is being contaminated / heated up by component's heated exhaust. Water changes all that because of the time it takes to heat up and equalize the cooling ability of the loop.

Will be interesting to see your results both ways.


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Hmmm....not sure that will be quite the same improvement as a pair of F140SP......
> 
> (I am sure, just being diplomatic)


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> AF are both very poor performers, especially when dealing with filters and other resistance. You would be better off getting a single PH-F140SP and using it with the back exhaust as 2x front intakes.


How about noise on those PH-F140SP against AF120/AF140 Quiet Editions?


----------



## ITAngel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> AF are both very poor performers, especially when dealing with filters and other resistance. You would be better off getting a single PH-F140SP and using it with the back exhaust as 2x front intakes.
> 
> Larger res just means it will take longer for temps to equalize .. but they do look nice.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With air, if it takes for than a few minutes to reach peak temps under 100% load, it is likely the cool air is being contaminated / heated up by component's heated exhaust. Water changes all that because of the time it takes to heat up and equalize the cooling ability of the loop.
> 
> Will be interesting to see your results both ways.


Hahaha, good point, I didn't think of that taking longer to equalize. yea I am also curious but will keep you guys posted here with some pictures and so on from my test. chances are I will use an intense game like Battlefield 4? Any game suggestions?


----------



## KaffieneKing

@ITAngel manage that cable around the fan!


----------



## ITAngel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaffieneKing*
> 
> @ITAngel manage that cable around the fan!


Which cable are you referring to? All those cables are pretty tight! for the most part.



This is the back I will clean then better once the loop is back up and running with the new pump.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> How about noise on those PH-F140SP against AF120/AF140 Quiet Editions?


No noise = no airflow in many of this kind of comparisons.

Any fan worth using has to be able to overcome resistance, which is what static pressure ratings are supposed to show.

Fan airflow 101:
Fans have 2 ratings: airflow in CFM and static pressure in mmH2O
CFM rating is fan in open space with no resistance .. like a ceiling fan.
mmH2O is the point water int the tube reaches when fan is completely blocked .. fan mounted to a solid panel.
Personally, I don't use my fans in either of these situations, so these specs mean little. What the fan is doing in-between these two point is what I'm interested in.









But to see this we need a PQ curve.

Or even better, let's put the fans on something with resistance to flow similar to a grill & filter, a cooler or radiator. Then test them and compare their noise to their airflow. Something like this:


http://thermalbench.com/2015/05/20/corsair-sp140-led-140mm-fan/3/

or this

http://thermalbench.com/2015/10/31/thermalright-ty-147a-140mm-fan/3/

I know, either shows the specific fans we are discussing, but I think it is fair to assume the sailboat AF is not as good as SP, and the Phanteks MP is not as good as it's SP model. So by inference we can get an idea of what their respective http://thermalbench.com/2015/05/20/corsair-sp140-led-140mm-fan/3/ is like.

Here are Phanteks 140mm fan specs.


While I have no P/Q curve of PH-F140SP I would suspect the amount lower in CFM the PH-F140MP is versus it's added static pressure rating will mean is has a little less airflow in the 0.5-1.0mm range where we use most fans. Add the added speed and noise of PH-F140MP and it is a reasonable guess the PH-F140SP is better suited for case use.








But without testing both I can't say for sure which is better. I'm sure both out-perform those sailboat fans, even the 'HP' ones and there is no doubt in my mind they are way better than the 'AP' ones.


----------



## ITAngel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> You probably know I have a Luxe and Evolv ATX. Both are exceptionally well built.
> Luxe needs PH-F200SP replaced with 2x PH-F140SP fans
> Evolv ATX needs spaces on front to improve airflow .. and top if using a radiator
> Both are good out of the box, but I'm a perfectionist.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Nothing wrong with those air temps and water are fantastic!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> GTs are fantastic fans. no pun! I can't remember, do you have a bottom intake? .. with all PCIe slots open on the back for added exhaust flow from GPU?
> 
> If GPU was 10-15c lower there would be no reason to even consider water.


Sorry doyll forgot to answer your question about the bottom intake. No this case has the front intakes and top but no bottom. Since you have the PSU, and then 3.5 tray location, then you have your dual 3.5/2.5 drive bay. That is what the bottom fan is pushing air too.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ITAngel*
> 
> Sorry doyll forgot to answer your question about the bottom intake. No this case has the front intakes and top but no bottom. Since you have the PSU, and then 3.5 tray location, then you have your dual 3.5/2.5 drive bay. That is what the bottom fan is pushing air too.


I suggest taking that bottom cover out for our air testing. My guess is it will improve GPU temps. Also, top vents are notorious for drawing air up from GPU exhaust and heating up the CPU cooling airflow from front.

I'm sure that wet loop out-performs the air, but when done properly air really does do a very good job.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> No noise = no airflow in many of this kind of comparisons.
> 
> Any fan worth using has to be able to overcome resistance, which is what static pressure ratings are supposed to show.
> 
> Fan airflow 101:
> Fans have 2 ratings: airflow in CFM and static pressure in mmH2O
> CFM rating is fan in open space with no resistance .. like a ceiling fan.
> mmH2O is the point water int the tube reaches when fan is completely blocked .. fan mounted to a solid panel.
> Personally, I don't use my fans in either of these situations, so these specs mean little. What the fan is doing in-between these two point is what I'm interested in.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But to see this we need a PQ curve.
> 
> Or even better, let's put the fans on something with resistance to flow similar to a grill & filter, a cooler or radiator. Then test them and compare their noise to their airflow. Something like this:
> 
> 
> http://thermalbench.com/2015/05/20/corsair-sp140-led-140mm-fan/3/
> 
> or this
> 
> http://thermalbench.com/2015/10/31/thermalright-ty-147a-140mm-fan/3/
> 
> I know, either shows the specific fans we are discussing, but I think it is fair to assume the sailboat AF is not as good as SP, and the Phanteks MP is not as good as it's SP model. So by inference we can get an idea of what their respective http://thermalbench.com/2015/05/20/corsair-sp140-led-140mm-fan/3/ is like.
> 
> Here are Phanteks 140mm fan specs.
> 
> 
> While I have no P/Q curve of PH-F140SP I would suspect the amount lower in CFM the PH-F140MP is versus it's added static pressure rating will mean is has a little less airflow in the 0.5-1.0mm range where we use most fans. Add the added speed and noise of PH-F140MP and it is a reasonable guess the PH-F140SP is better suited for case use.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But without testing both I can't say for sure which is better. I'm sure both out-perform those sailboat fans, even the 'HP' ones and there is no doubt in my mind they are way better than the 'AP' ones.


This is all meaningless. What about the color rings?


----------



## PureBlackFire

^having owned and used every corsair fan except 120 mm LED models and having a 750D and Luxe to compare and swap stock 140 mm fans, the Phanteks 140SP are literally quieter and perform better (move noticeably more air at 60%+ speed) than AF140 quiet editions. and mounting the AF140's horizontally they make some weird noises, at least mine did. the stock fans on the 750D and most corsair cases are AF140 quiet edition's without the colored ring and -100 rpm top speed.


----------



## ITAngel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> I suggest taking that bottom cover out for our air testing. My guess is it will improve GPU temps. Also, top vents are notorious for drawing air up from GPU exhaust and heating up the CPU cooling airflow from front.
> 
> I'm sure that wet loop out-performs the air, but when done properly air really does do a very good job.


I agree when done right the air cooling can very nice, I enjoy both to be honest but the temps under a loop are pretty nice too. I would had only water cooled the CPU but after seen the temps on a GPU, is hard not to want to water cool it.

Removing that I doubt it will make much of a different, however, I did started to think about something after looking at some pictures online of the grilled and the massive wholes it has. I could easily place a fan under it pushing cool air directly to the GPU. Hmmm.... I may experiment with that once I get home today from work.


----------



## Dorito Bandit

Enthoo Pro

Just a heads up. For those of you interested in getting the Phanteks Enthoo Pro, Newegg here in the US is currently offering it for $89.99 or $74.99 after $15 rebate. Deal expires at 11:59PM PT on 4/10/16.


----------



## Faster_is_better

Any word on tempered glass window for Primo's too? That would be reallllllly nice


----------



## catbuster

What would be optimal radiator choice for Enthoo Primo? How does 2x ekwb XE 480 sound? Top and bottom? bottom could go push&pull and top push?


----------



## Duke976

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *catbuster*
> 
> What would be optimal radiator choice for Enthoo Primo? How does 2x ekwb XE 480 sound? Top and bottom? bottom could go push&pull and top push?


Those XE480 are a very good choice for primo, I am using XE480 p/p top and UT60 480 in bottom p/p. I would have prefer to use another XE480 instead of the UT60 if i didnt already have that. You can install the XE480 in the bottom if you remove the bracket that is holding the drive bay since their is a clearance issue. But you can put it back and it will work after that.


----------



## thenewguyltt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> You probably know I have a Luxe and Evolv ATX. Both are exceptionally well built.
> Evolv ATX needs spaces on front to improve airflow .. and top if using a radiator


Hey doyll,

what do you mean it needs spacers? Something to lift the panel a little bit? I'll be building a CPU loop in the Evolv (6700K) with a 360 in the top.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thenewguyltt*
> 
> Hey doyll,
> 
> what do you mean it needs spacers? Something to lift the panel a little bit? I'll be building a CPU loop in the Evolv (6700K) with a 360 in the top.


If you remove the screws holding the top on, it can be unclipped and removed. If it is set back on without pushing down and clipping, it leave a 5-6mm gap all the way around the top. This gap increases top venting by to about 3 times what it is stock.

What I did was get some longer screws (6-32 or M3.5) for the mounting clip brackets and put 6mm spacers between them and top. I also had to make a 6mm spacer to fit on top of the power button so it is flush with the top. On the front I used 10mm spacers. I cut the screws to length needed. I used hacksaw and file because I couldn't find my electrical pliers with built in screw cutter. Could use grinder, belt sander, etc too. As you can see dichup used nuts for spacers on front. I used voidless birch plywood because it was handy, but most anything will work.

Another member did it first and posted it, but I can't remember who it was.

It was djchup:
http://www.overclock.net/t/1418637/official-case-phanteks-case-club-for-lovers-owners/12260_20#post_24866111

http://www.overclock.net/t/1418637/official-case-phanteks-case-club-for-lovers-owners/11760_20#post_24665758
http://www.overclock.net/t/1418637/official-case-phanteks-case-club-for-lovers-owners/12760_20#post_25027097


----------



## thenewguyltt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*


Thanks







Not sure I like the way it looks at the front though.. I will see how the temps are first.

For everyone wondering about the tempered glass Evolv ATX, I emailed Phanteks Sales and they told me it will be available starting May:
Quote:


> Evolv ATX Tempered Glass edition will be available in channels around early May 2016


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thenewguyltt*
> 
> Thanks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not sure I like the way it looks at the front though.. I will see how the temps are first.
> 
> For everyone wondering about the tempered glass Evolv ATX, I emailed Phanteks Sales and they told me it will be available starting May:


You can space it out to what you like. Different length screws and thickness of spacer are determining factors. Personally I think spacing the top up 6-7mm looks good. The width of gap is same as vent slots so blends right in. The front I have not decided on what my final spacing will be, but I'm leaning toward 11-12mm. This will bring the most forward parts of front (top and bottom) out 4-5mm in front of case and the resulting slot will be a 45 degree angle between sides and front. Only time will tell.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Since I'm waiting on fittings from my measuring stupidity I've decided to paint my ram spreaders green to match the green in the primo the color I got looks a little darker but it's florescent so it may look closer to the primo green....either way it's closer than red of the rip jaws kit...it's Krylon florescent green it's hard to find green that matches the primo green without having it mixed and buying spray equipment


----------



## TheEnergy

Does anyone know if the NZXT Kraken x61 (280mm radiator) will fit in push/pull (4 fans, 2 on top , 2 on bottom) on the TOP (exhaust) of the Phanteks Enthoo Evolv ATX case?
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811854025&cm_re=phanteks_evolv-_-11-854-025-_-Product


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XxAlbertoxX*
> 
> Does anyone know if the NZXT Kraken x61 (280mm radiator) will fit in push/pull (4 fans, 2 on top , 2 on bottom) on the TOP (exhaust) of the Phanteks Enthoo Evolv ATX case?
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811854025&cm_re=phanteks_evolv-_-11-854-025-_-Product


It will physically fit.


----------



## kcuestag

Does the Enthoo Luxe come with the 1m and 2m LED strips?

I've seen a few reviews that contained them, such as this one:


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> Does the Enthoo Luxe come with the 1m and 2m LED strips?
> 
> I've seen a few reviews that contained them, such as this one:


No, they must be purchased separately.


----------



## Duality92

Add the P400 to the OP









Also, if anyone wants, you can follow my dual system P400 here









http://www.overclock.net/t/1596945/build-log-the-duality


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Duality92*
> 
> Add the P400 to the OP










Maybe next month or next year.








Peeps are usually more receptive to requests than demands.
If you asked nicely instead of demanding I would have done it.








I was thinking about doing it, but not now.


----------



## Duality92

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Maybe next month or next year.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Peeps are usually more receptive to requests than demands.
> If you asked nicely instead of demanding I would have done it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was thinking about doing it, but not now.


Oh doyll, could you please add the P400 to the first post







(being non-sarcastic and serious).

It would be greatly appreciated so that we can share our experiences with this case and suggestions for it


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Duality92*
> 
> Oh doyll, could you please add the P400 to the first post
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (being non-sarcastic and serious).
> 
> It would be greatly appreciated so that we can share our experiences with this case and suggestions for it


Okay, sense you asked so nicely .. although a litlle sugar n the end would have been nice.








Seriously, this thread is for all Phanteks cases.


----------



## Duality92

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Okay, sense you asked so nicely .. although a litlle sugar n the end would have been nice.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Seriously, this thread is for all Phanteks cases.


little sugar added.


----------



## Duality92

*Product Page*



_OC3D video, must see before purchasing the case_





*Reviews*

Hardware Canucks
KitGuru
Bit-Tech
Gamer Nexus


----------



## doyll

@Duality92
Just added what you posted above to top of OP.


----------



## Duality92

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> @Duality92
> Just added what you posted above to top of OP.


Awesome, figured since I wanted it added it wouldn't hurt me too much doing the work of having all the info for you to simply add it


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Duality92*
> 
> Awesome, figured since I wanted it added it wouldn't hurt me too much doing the work of having all the info for you to simply add it


Somehow I figured that was the case.







Made it almost to painless.









When I started the thread I should have kept the next few post reserved for future info.







At least I made the 3rd and 5th posts.

If anyone has any other good info and/or links, I could put it in there. Problem is most peeps jump to end of thread and never look at first posts.


----------



## ITAngel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Somehow I figured that was the case.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Made it almost to painless.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When I started the thread I should have kept the next few post reserved for future info.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At least I made the 3rd and 5th posts.
> 
> If anyone has any other good info and/or links, I could put it in there. Problem is most peeps jump to end of thread and never look at first posts.


Submitting a request for P400.







*Note I just went to the end of the thread. hahaha









Joke aside that case looks like it has a nice big window and is pretty clean in the front but I think I still like the Pro M version though.Thanks for the adding the P400.


----------



## ciarlatano

This thread is already pretty messy. Maybe a new thread for the new cases? Especially given that they are entirely different.


----------



## Duality92

If doyll let's me clean up the OP, I'll gladly make it so it's "cleaner"


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thenewguyltt*
> 
> Thanks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not sure I like the way it looks at the front though.. I will see how the temps are first.
> 
> For everyone wondering about the tempered glass Evolv ATX, I emailed Phanteks Sales and they told me it will be available starting May:


Finally... finally... FINALLY!


----------



## ITAngel

Is it possible to put one on the Phanteks Enthoo Pro M that came without one? I have the standard plastic glass on the side but it only show a small portion of the system.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ITAngel*
> 
> Is it possible to put one on the Phanteks Enthoo Pro M that came without one? I have the standard plastic glass on the side but it only show a small portion of the system.


I don't think so. Last I heard was the glass version has different side cover mounts.


----------



## TheEnergy

When is the Tempered Glass version of the Evolv ATX coming out ??? Phanteks said it would release in March!!!! It's already april!!!! I ended up ordering the Galaxy Silver ATX version but am still JELLY about this version!!!
http://www.tweaktown.com/news/49624/tempered-glass-phanteks-enthoo-evolv-atx-belongs-art-gallery/index.html


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thenewguyltt*
> 
> Thanks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not sure I like the way it looks at the front though.. I will see how the temps are first.
> 
> For everyone wondering about the tempered glass Evolv ATX, I emailed Phanteks Sales and they told me it will be available starting May:


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XxAlbertoxX*
> 
> When is the Tempered Glass version of the Evolv ATX coming out ??? Phanteks said it would release in March!!!! It's already april!!!! I ended up ordering the Galaxy Silver ATX version but am still JELLY about this version!!!
> http://www.tweaktown.com/news/49624/tempered-glass-phanteks-enthoo-evolv-atx-belongs-art-gallery/index.html


Bad timing.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XxAlbertoxX*
> 
> When is the Tempered Glass version of the Evolv ATX coming out ??? Phanteks said it would release in March!!!! It's already april!!!! I ended up ordering the Galaxy Silver ATX version but am still JELLY about this version!!!
> http://www.tweaktown.com/news/49624/tempered-glass-phanteks-enthoo-evolv-atx-belongs-art-gallery/index.html


Welcome to the real world. A month after projected release date is nothing! Two months and sitll very close. Ask questions after 3 months. Anything within 6 months is good.


----------



## TheEnergy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> Bad timing.


Thanks.

Well, honestly I wanted to mod my build a bit ASAP, and I wouldn't have been able to wait until May honestly.

I can always pick it up in May too, honestly I really like the galaxy silver ATX Evolv so I may not even pick it up.

Will the tempered glass versions for the Evolv ATX be coming in the same colors, like satin black, galaxy silver, and anthracite gray?


----------



## ITAngel

Finally got my system done for now.



If I can only have a nice large window but I may experiment with some acrylic glass sometime and mod it.


----------



## dclarke1986

Hey guys. Got the enthoo primo case and I'm really struggling to get the front fan cover panel off. I see the small clips on the top but if I push or pull it won't budge. Feels like I'm going to break something. Any idea where exactly I push or pull on this thing. Cheers


----------



## Joe88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dclarke1986*
> 
> Hey guys. Got the enthoo primo case and I'm really struggling to get the front fan cover panel off. I see the small clips on the top but if I push or pull it won't budge. Feels like I'm going to break something. Any idea where exactly I push or pull on this thing. Cheers


----------



## Duality92

Updated the OP







will add other cases when we get a chance


----------



## doyll

Thanks. Takes all the work out of it for me anyway. Hardest part was understanding you did it all.


----------



## Hequaqua

Phanteks customer support is tops.

I purchased my case back in Dec. or Jan. and the 140mm fan that came with it has failed. I sent an email to support yesterday explaining the issue. Phanteks emailed me back wanting a copy of the invoice. I shot the over yesterday evening. Today I got email telling my new fan is on the way and gave me the tracking number!!

Great Work Phanteks!!


----------



## iRonMan22

1) I plan on having an Alphacool NexXxoS UT60 480mm mounted on the top in push/pull configuration with Corsair SP120 High Performance (25 mm thick) fans. Will this fit with my ASRock X99 Extreme 6/3.1 MoBo and 4x 8 GB DDR4 Dominator Platinum? I maybe plan on having a fan controller in the 5.25 bay

2) I would like to cut out the rectangular panel covering the hard drive cages and put two tube reservoirs in place. Here is an example of what I would like to do:

http://www.overclock.net/t/1582742/ambient-fusion-phanteks-ethoo-primo-i7-4790k-gtx980-sli-water-cooling-build

What are the dimensions of the section I would like to cut out? What size tube reservoirs will fit in the cut out (like in the example above)? Would two Photon 270 Res/Pump combos work? Also, with two reservoirs placed here, is there enough room for an Alphacool NexXxoS UT60 240mm Rad in push/pull (SP 120 fans) fit? What is the width from the moded panel to the side of the case (non-windowed side, obviously), or ow much room do I have to work with for the reservoirs, rad, and fans?

3) In the bottom I then plan on having another Alphacool NexXxoS UT60 240mm Rad in Push/Pull configuration. However, keeping in mind the details of question 2 above, would a 360mm Rad fit here? How thick of a rad can I fit in push pull here on the bottom?

Here is my design below:


----------



## prava

Ordered a precious Evolv ATX in Galaxy Silver. Can't wait to get it!!!!


----------



## Faster_is_better

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iRonMan22*
> 
> 1) I plan on having an Alphacool NexXxoS UT60 480mm mounted on the top in push/pull configuration with Corsair SP120 High Performance (25 mm thick) fans. Will this fit with my ASRock X99 Extreme 6/3.1 MoBo and 4x 8 GB DDR4 Dominator Platinum? I maybe plan on having a fan controller in the 5.25 bay
> 
> 2) I would like to cut out the rectangular panel covering the hard drive cages and put two tube reservoirs in place. Here is an example of what I would like to do:
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1582742/ambient-fusion-phanteks-ethoo-primo-i7-4790k-gtx980-sli-water-cooling-build
> 
> What are the dimensions of the section I would like to cut out? What size tube reservoirs will fit in the cut out (like in the example above)? Would two Photon 270 Res/Pump combos work? Also, with two reservoirs placed here, is there enough room for an Alphacool NexXxoS UT60 240mm Rad in push/pull (SP 120 fans) fit? What is the width from the moded panel to the side of the case (non-windowed side, obviously), or ow much room do I have to work with for the reservoirs, rad, and fans?
> 
> 3) In the bottom I then plan on having another Alphacool NexXxoS UT60 240mm Rad in Push/Pull configuration. However, keeping in mind the details of question 2 above, would a 360mm Rad fit here? How thick of a rad can I fit in push pull here on the bottom?
> 
> Here is my design below:


Check some measurements here.

Depending how tall your ram is, that will probably be your limiting feature for the fat rad + fans in the top.


----------



## deeph

Hi all,

I'm looking for Mini-ITX case. My eyes pointed to Evolv ITX and Evolv M-ATX. Which one do you guys prefer?
But there is no Evolv ITX is instock in shop near here (I can buy online but shipping would be half of the case price though lol). If take Evolv M-ATX, does it still worth it? Or wait to the ITX one until available?
One of my complain to the Evolv M-ATX is the window on side panel is small. Would be great if the window wide enough onto the side of HDD/SSD/reservoir mount panel, so they can exposed from outside. Other than that I still like both cases









Thanks
deeph


----------



## TheEnergy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dclarke1986*
> 
> Hey guys. Got the enthoo primo case and I'm really struggling to get the front fan cover panel off. I see the small clips on the top but if I push or pull it won't budge. Feels like I'm going to break something. Any idea where exactly I push or pull on this thing. Cheers


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *prava*
> 
> Ordered a precious Evolv ATX in Galaxy Silver. Can't wait to get it!!!!


Yep, I ordered the same one . Was going to get anthracite gray. The galaxy silver is wicked looking in person and my god, the aluminum is so thick and quality, honestly one of the best cases I ever opened in terms of sheer build quality, and I 've had corsair obsidians, fractal define, nzxt s340, coolermaster, silverstone, pretty much everything.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dclarke1986*
> 
> Hey guys. Got the enthoo primo case and I'm really struggling to get the front fan cover panel off. I see the small clips on the top but if I push or pull it won't budge. Feels like I'm going to break something. Any idea where exactly I push or pull on this thing. Cheers


Sometimes something thin and flat like a kitchen spatula slid between case and front is helpful getting clips loose.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *deeph*
> 
> Hi all,
> 
> I'm looking for Mini-ITX case. My eyes pointed to Evolv ITX and Evolv M-ATX. Which one do you guys prefer?
> But there is no Evolv ITX is instock in shop near here (I can buy online but shipping would be half of the case price though lol). If take Evolv M-ATX, does it still worth it? Or wait to the ITX one until available?
> One of my complain to the Evolv M-ATX is the window on side panel is small. Would be great if the window wide enough onto the side of HDD/SSD/reservoir mount panel, so they can exposed from outside. Other than that I still like both cases
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks
> deeph


I would get the mATX becasue it can use 2x 140mm front fans (comes with one) instead of single 200mm fan. 2x 140mm perform much better than single 200mm


----------



## michael-ocn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *prava*
> 
> Ordered a precious Evolv ATX in Galaxy Silver. Can't wait to get it!!!!


Enjoy, it's a great case, super swanky, I got the anthracite gray myself


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *michael-ocn*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> Originally Posted by prava
> 
> Ordered a precious Evolv ATX in Galaxy Silver. Can't wait to get it!!!!
> 
> 
> 
> Enjoy, it's a great case, super swanky, I got the anthracite gray myself
Click to expand...

Me too. Love it!


----------



## Duality92

My P400 is anthracite gray also ^^


----------



## prava

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Duality92*
> 
> My P400 is anthracite gray also ^^


Question, since I have read contradictory statements.... is the front part plastic or is it metal as the rest of the exterior?


----------



## Duality92

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *prava*
> 
> Question, since I have read contradictory statements.... is the front part plastic or is it metal as the rest of the exterior?


It's a metal sheet mounted on a top and bottom part of plastic to mount it.

I'll take pictures tonight or this weekend in my thread.


----------



## prava

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Duality92*
> 
> It's a metal sheet mounted on a top and bottom part of plastic to mount it.
> 
> I'll take pictures tonight or this weekend in my thread.


Ok. The outer shell of the case is thus all metal. Good, since reviews werent clear.

Imo,phanteks is rocking the boat. They are giving everybody a run for their money and then some. Finally some competition.

When I saw the evolv and specially the engineering behind it i couldnt pass it. Then, you look the other products and they are incredible.


----------



## Duality92

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *prava*
> 
> Ok. The outer shell of the case is thus all metal. Good, since reviews werent clear.
> 
> Imo,phanteks is rocking the boat. They are giving everybody a run for their money and then some. Finally some competition.
> 
> When I saw the evolv and specially the engineering behind it i couldnt pass it. Then, you look the other products and they are incredible.


Yes and no. I have around 12 cases. If I compare the qualitty of the Fractal Define R4, it's far superior and the case itself feels more premium. It honestly feels like it's worth what you're paying for and nothing else. Feature wise, it's great, but has it's quirks.

Even if I were to compare it to my Bitfenix Prodigy, I feel that this Phantek is of lesser quality. They've cut corners on this case. Me being a Quality Assurance Engineer puts me in the perfect spot to detect these and be kind of frustrated. I will however, be writting my impressions of this case in my build log when I'm done building with it.

On a desk, it'll be good looking and an overall great case, but I can say out of most my cases it has to be the cheapest feeling one.


Spoiler: Mainstream cases I own



Fractal Design Define R4
Fractal Design Acr Mini R2
Bitfenix Prodigy M
Antec ISK600
In Win 805
Phantek P400


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Duality92*
> 
> Yes and no. I have around 12 cases. If I compare the qualitty of the Fractal Define R4, it's far superior and the case itself feels more premium. It honestly feels like it's worth what you're paying for and nothing else. Feature wise, it's great, but has it's quirks.
> 
> Even if I were to compare it to my Bitfenix Prodigy, I feel that this Phantek is of lesser quality. They've cut corners on this case. Me being a Quality Assurance Engineer puts me in the perfect spot to detect these and be kind of frustrated. I will however, be writting my impressions of this case in my build log when I'm done building with it.
> 
> On a desk, it'll be good looking and an overall great case, but I can say out of most my cases it has to be the cheapest feeling one.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Mainstream cases I own
> 
> 
> 
> Fractal Design Define R4
> Fractal Design Acr Mini R2
> Bitfenix Prodigy M
> Antec ISK600
> In Win 805
> Phantek P400


Keep in mind that the R4 was a $100-110 case when new. Hard to compare a $69 case to that.

I haven't used a P400 yet, and doubt I will. Way too many quirks for my liking.


----------



## Duality92

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Keep in mind that the R4 was a $100-110 case when new. Hard to compare a $69 case to that.
> 
> I haven't used a P400 yet, and doubt I will. Way too many quirks for my liking.


Yes, but the Define R4 come out like 4 years ago. Just the edges and everything it bugs me so much that I even considered returning this case, but I love the features and overall look too much to swap to a different case.

The white P400S is 89$ so it's not a 69$ case anymore. To be comprable to the Define R4 your need the P400S.

P400 black and grey = 69$
P400 white = 79$
P400S black and grey = 79$
P400S white = 89$

(MSRP)

If we were to compare the Define R5 at 109.99$ with the 89.99$ P400 it then becomes less attractive because you can get a much superior case for 20$ more. (add the hard drive cages to the P400 and we're even on price)

Regardless, the Define series and Eclipse series are vastly different in offerings.


----------



## prava

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Duality92*
> 
> Yes and no. I have around 12 cases. If I compare the qualitty of the Fractal Define R4, it's far superior and the case itself feels more premium. It honestly feels like it's worth what you're paying for and nothing else. Feature wise, it's great, but has it's quirks.
> 
> Even if I were to compare it to my Bitfenix Prodigy, I feel that this Phantek is of lesser quality. They've cut corners on this case. Me being a Quality Assurance Engineer puts me in the perfect spot to detect these and be kind of frustrated. I will however, be writting my impressions of this case in my build log when I'm done building with it.
> 
> On a desk, it'll be good looking and an overall great case, but I can say out of most my cases it has to be the cheapest feeling one.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Mainstream cases I own
> 
> 
> 
> Fractal Design Define R4
> Fractal Design Acr Mini R2
> Bitfenix Prodigy M
> Antec ISK600
> In Win 805
> Phantek P400


I was talking about the Enthoo Pro and up, although I believe that the frame of the P400 (that I believe it is almost the same as the one in the Pro M and Evolv ATX) is one of the best in the market. It would be even a bit better if you could mount drives behind the main panel, just like in the Define S.


----------



## Duality92

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *prava*
> 
> I was talking about the Enthoo Pro and up, although I believe that the frame of the P400 (that I believe it is almost the same as the one in the Pro M and Evolv ATX) *is one of the best in the market.* It would be even a bit better if you could mount drives behind the main panel, just like in the Define S.


Not denying that fact, but according to who or what?

The frame is very simple and "best" for a computer case is very, very subjective. I consider both my Fractal Design products to be vastly superior to the P400 frame (although both more expensive). From what I'm seeing, the frame of the P400 is based off the Pro M frame largely.

This is coming from a guy who dislikes Fractal Design as a whole unfortunatly.

I'd need to get some cases to review them as I suspect that over 100$ cases from Phantek feel of higher quality than the P400. I just need to remind myself that it seems to be targetted more towards "budget" class builds.


----------



## prava

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Duality92*
> 
> Not denying that fact, but according to who or what?
> 
> The frame is very simple and "best" for a computer case is very, very subjective. I consider both my Fractal Design products to be vastly superior to the P400 frame (although both more expensive). From what I'm seeing, the frame of the P400 is based off the Pro M frame largely.
> 
> This is coming from a guy who dislikes Fractal Design as a whole unfortunatly.
> 
> I'd need to get some cases to review them as I suspect that over 100$ cases from Phantek feel of higher quality than the P400. I just need to remind myself that it seems to be targetted more towards "budget" class builds.


According to me, ofc. It is clearly my opinion on the matter









I do believe it is the best one because:

a) it is open, yet you can have drive mounts on the motherboard side (would be even better if you could have some behind, like the Define S. The Evolv ATX is wide enough as it is).

b) the top tray for fans / rads / aio is terribly clever and useful in design.

c) It has no 5.25 or simply 1.

I'm talking design-wise (function-wise) not quality-wise.

With that said, I'll review extensively my Evolv ATX when it gets here. I have done my own amount of tinkering on cases, so lets see if my initial perceptions end up being not as good as the last ones









PS: Fractal was also in my top5 list, no doubts. They also sport a lot of innovations lately. But... I just don't like that they offer no premium version with a nicer outside. I'm picky like that but, to me, fake-brushed plastic doesn't cut it. And though reviews insist that it looks like alu... it doesn't. It simply doesn't. Whenever I compare the Lian-li manufactured case that I own against the Fractal Midi that my brother has... nope, it is nothing close to aluminum. Or metal. It is simply plastic. And I hate such a finish so much I simply can't own a case with that. Which is why I asked about whether the P400 front fascia was metal or plastic


----------



## doyll

I can see both sides of this discussion.









The difference between $60-70 and $90-110 case is generally a near black and white kind of comparison .. way more than the difference between $100 and $150+ cases. The quality, features .. especially features builders like to see for cable management, airflow, drive mounting, etc become much better. FD has had much more time to develop their designs compared to Phanteks. Yet Phanteks has taken us to a new level. Phanteks cases are simply at the top of the design and user curve. Sure there are other good cases, some even better. But Phanteks is on the top of the case mountain with the best of the best .. coolers too.


----------



## n64ADL

i never got the chance to thank this forum for helping me get the phanteks enthooo luxe case. truly the finest case i have ever had the privilege of owning. thank you!


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *prava*
> 
> According to me, ofc. It is clearly my opinion on the matter
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I do believe it is the best one because:
> 
> a) it is open, yet you can have drive mounts on the motherboard side (would be even better if you could have some behind, like the Define S. The Evolv ATX is wide enough as it is).
> 
> b) the top tray for fans / rads / aio is terribly clever and useful in design.
> 
> c) It has no 5.25 or simply 1.
> 
> I'm talking design-wise (function-wise) not quality-wise.
> 
> With that said, I'll review extensively my Evolv ATX when it gets here. I have done my own amount of tinkering on cases, so lets see if my initial perceptions end up being not as good as the last ones
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> PS: Fractal was also in my top5 list, no doubts. They also sport a lot of innovations lately. But... I just don't like that they offer no premium version with a nicer outside. I'm picky like that but, to me, fake-brushed plastic doesn't cut it. And though reviews insist that it looks like alu... it doesn't. It simply doesn't. Whenever I compare the Lian-li manufactured case that I own against the Fractal Midi that my brother has... nope, it is nothing close to aluminum. Or metal. It is simply plastic. And I hate such a finish so much I simply can't own a case with that. Which is why I asked about whether the P400 front fascia was metal or plastic


I happen to agree with your overall sentiment. Having used just about every case around, I honestly feel that the Phanteks are the leaders at their respective price points.....excepting this latest series, which I can't weigh in on.


----------



## deeph

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> I would get the mATX becasue it can use 2x 140mm front fans (comes with one) instead of single 200mm fan. 2x 140mm perform much better than single 200mm


Just picked up Evolv MATX yesterday








This case is pretty sleek, looks simple from outside. Cable management also easy. But its way to big for M-ITX though lol.
Only running motherboard, processor, memory, stock processor cooler, PSU and a SSD.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *deeph*
> 
> Just picked up Evolv MATX yesterday
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This case is pretty sleek, looks simple from outside. Cable management also easy. But its way to big for M-ITX though lol.
> Only running motherboard, processor, memory, stock processor cooler, PSU and a SSD.


Is it too big from the outside? Will it fit where you want to set it?

I understand there is unused space compared to motherboard size. But smaller cases limit what will fit in them and often do not have the venting needed to flow the air they need to run cool. I am afraid a 'normal' size GPU with 2x or 3x 92mm fans and tower CPU cooler with 140mm fans would suffer from loss of airflow in a Evolve ITX with 200mm front intake fan. I think it would not be able to supply the cool air components need to run cool. 2x 140mm fans flow a lot more air than a 200mm fan does.


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Is it too big from the outside? Will it fit where you want to set it?
> 
> I understand there is unused space compared to motherboard size. But smaller cases limit what will fit in them and often do not have the venting needed to flow the air they need to run cool. I am afraid a 'normal' size GPU with 2x or 3x 92mm fans and tower CPU cooler with 140mm fans would suffer from loss of airflow in a Evolve ITX with 200mm front intake fan. I think it would not be able to supply the cool air components need to run cool. 2x 140mm fans flow a lot more air than a 200mm fan does.


I have 2 120mm fans on a radiator in the front of my Evolv itx, before that I had replaced the 200mm with 2 140mm and they do indeed improve air flow a lot.


----------



## prava

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Is it too big from the outside? Will it fit where you want to set it?
> 
> I understand there is unused space compared to motherboard size. But smaller cases limit what will fit in them and often do not have the venting needed to flow the air they need to run cool. I am afraid a 'normal' size GPU with 2x or 3x 92mm fans and tower CPU cooler with 140mm fans would suffer from loss of airflow in a Evolve ITX with 200mm front intake fan. I think it would not be able to supply the cool air components need to run cool. 2x 140mm fans flow a lot more air than a 200mm fan does.


The problem I see with the mATX is that its almost as big as the ATX version. There isn't a significant size difference and, at that stage, I'd rather pick the ATX. With that said, though, the mITX and the others are very different because the bigger have aluminum exterior whilst the smaller does not.

Food for thought...

PS: and the problem with the 200mm fan is that its a very low-speed fan... and low speed fans do not work well against a filter. If it was something like a Penetrator it would destroy any 2 x 140mm combination you could put, at lower noise.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *prava*
> 
> The problem I see with the mATX is that its almost as big as the ATX version. There isn't a significant size difference and, at that stage, I'd rather pick the ATX. With that said, though, the mITX and the others are very different because the bigger have aluminum exterior whilst the smaller does not.
> 
> Food for thought...
> 
> PS: and the problem with the 200mm fan is that its a very low-speed fan... and low speed fans do not work well against a filter. If it was something like a Penetrator it would destroy any 2 x 140mm combination you could put, at lower noise.


And if a car was a boat, it would float much better!

So.....if Phanteks replaced their 200mm with one that only exists in your head, the world would be a better place?

You might want to look into *why* there is no 200mm Silverstone AP fan, or any formidable 200mm 12V fan at all.


----------



## prava

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> And if a car was a boat, it would float much better!
> 
> So.....if Phanteks replaced their 200mm with one that only exists in your head, the world would be a better place?
> 
> You might want to look into *why* there is no 200mm Silverstone AP fan, or any formidable 200mm 12V fan at all.


This has nothing to do with what I stated. My point is that it isn't the fault of the size chosen (ie 200mm) but the current implementation of it (ie low speed fan). Silverstone doesn't sell any 200mm AP because they don't have any case that uses it. Why sell or design something that you won't use?

I'll say again: the problem isn't in the size, it is in the implementation. If the fan were 180mm but low speed, the problem would be just as big.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *prava*
> 
> This has nothing to do with what I stated. My point is that it isn't the fault of the size chosen (ie 200mm) but the current implementation of it (ie low speed fan). Silverstone doesn't sell any 200mm AP because they don't have any case that uses it. Why sell or design something that you won't use?
> 
> I'll say again: the problem isn't in the size, it is in the implementation. If the fan were 180mm but low speed, the problem would be just as big.


It has everything to do with what you stated. Again......you need to figure out _why_ there is not one single 200mm or larger fan on the market (aimed at computer usage, not industrial) matching your description, or with even relatively good performance. Start with something as simple as the power draw being far too much for a MB header or many fan controllers included with cases.....


----------



## Ukaz

Hi ! Can I fit a EK Coolstream XE 360 radiator - fans in push/pull - with a asus X99 Deluxe motherboard in a Enthoo Primo ?


----------



## Duality92

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ukaz*
> 
> Hi ! Can I fit a EK Coolstream XE 360 radiator - fans in push/pull - with a asus X99 Deluxe motherboard in a Enthoo Primo ?


check here









http://www.overclock.net/t/1568214/phanteks-primo-measurements-resource


----------



## prava

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> It has everything to do with what you stated. Again......you need to figure out _why_ there is not one single 200mm or larger fan on the market (aimed at computer usage, not industrial) matching your description, or with even relatively good performance. Start with something as simple as the power draw being far too much for a MB header or many fan controllers included with cases.....


You really like to argue, don't you?

There are no 200mm computer fans because no computer case requires such a fan in the first place, or has space for it. It has nothing to do with motherboard headers or anything else, since there are many ways of controlling a fan without burning a motherboard connector. Silverstone, for instance, sells their 2000rpm 180mm Penetrator farms. Do they work off any motherboard header? Of course not. Does this mean that they can't be used on a computer? lol wut?

Just check how many cases support 200mm fans, and it will become obvious why there are barely any fans in such size. It isn't rocket science.


----------



## velocityx

finally it seems that evolv atx glass is gonna get released, some modder got his hands on that case. cant wait to get myself one!

http://www.thepicta.com/media/1209006115046948992_975967431


----------



## Duality92

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *prava*
> 
> You really like to argue, don't you?
> 
> There are no 200mm computer fans because no computer case requires such a fan in the first place, or has space for it. It has nothing to do with motherboard headers or anything else, since there are many ways of controlling a fan without burning a motherboard connector. Silverstone, for instance, sells their 2000rpm 180mm Penetrator farms. Do they work off any motherboard header? Of course not. Does this mean that they can't be used on a computer? lol wut?
> 
> Just check how many cases support 200mm fans, and it will become obvious why there are barely any fans in such size. It isn't rocket science.


Regardless, both of you, this isn't the thread for that discussion, if you want to have the 200mm fan discussion, please create a new thread *here*.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *prava*
> 
> You really like to argue, don't you?
> 
> There are no 200mm computer fans because no computer case requires such a fan in the first place, or has space for it. It has nothing to do with motherboard headers or anything else, since there are many ways of controlling a fan without burning a motherboard connector. Silverstone, for instance, sells their 2000rpm 180mm Penetrator farms. Do they work off any motherboard header? Of course not. Does this mean that they can't be used on a computer? lol wut?
> 
> Just check how many cases support 200mm fans, and it will become obvious why there are barely any fans in such size. It isn't rocket science.


It's not a question of liking arguing. You are looking at the subject completely superficially. I'm done, you go right on enjoying your fan that doesn't exist.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Duality92*
> 
> Regardless, both of you, this isn't the thread for that discussion, if you want to have the 200mm fan discussion, please create a new thread *here*.


No need. Wasn't a discussion I wanted to have in the first place.


----------



## prava

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *velocityx*
> 
> finally it seems that evolv atx glass is gonna get released, some modder got his hands on that case. cant wait to get myself one!
> 
> http://www.thepicta.com/media/1209006115046948992_975967431


I'd rather have the standard version, mainly because the pictured version has glass on both sides, and I simply don't like that.


----------



## Duality92

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *prava*
> 
> I'd rather have the standard version, mainly because the pictured version has glass on both sides, and I simply don't like that.


you could always paint the interior of the rear one so that it appears like black glass.


----------



## ITAngel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *velocityx*
> 
> finally it seems that evolv atx glass is gonna get released, some modder got his hands on that case. cant wait to get myself one!
> 
> http://www.thepicta.com/media/1209006115046948992_975967431


That looks nice, I may end up later on upgrading to that case from my enthoo pro m, should easily move my loop over very easy.


----------



## prava

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Duality92*
> 
> you could always paint the interior of the rear one so that it appears like black glass.


Riiiiiiiiiiiiiight, let's make a blunder on a high-end case







No thank you. Also, even on the left side I'm not sure I'd trade the hinges for a whole glass panel. Don't get me wrong, I'd love the window to be glass instead of the plastic its made of atm, but since I can cherry-pick I'll take the standard, Galaxy Silver version.

PS: jeeez can't wait until wednesday to finally arrive


----------



## zenn84

Would be nice if they sold the glass + nuts & bolts separately as an upgrade kit though...


----------



## PureBlackFire

I'd like a glass front panel too.


----------



## michael-ocn

I like being able to open the door to help my air cooled (not-quite-enough) gpu. I'd rather the side panel was hinged, all aluminum, with a grid of 1/4" venting holes to let gpu exhaust escape.


----------



## deeph

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Is it too big from the outside? Will it fit where you want to set it?
> 
> I understand there is unused space compared to motherboard size. But smaller cases limit what will fit in them and often do not have the venting needed to flow the air they need to run cool. I am afraid a 'normal' size GPU with 2x or 3x 92mm fans and tower CPU cooler with 140mm fans would suffer from loss of airflow in a Evolve ITX with 200mm front intake fan. I think it would not be able to supply the cool air components need to run cool. 2x 140mm fans flow a lot more air than a 200mm fan does.


This is what it looks like. Have much room for air to flow.


Before I was thinking about smaller case just enough to fit my parts though. But after I put them in this case, the case looks big. Then read your reply that actually right with big case that air will flow better and I agree with you.
I will look for 140mm fans but what is your preferred speed at 12V should I take?


----------



## michael-ocn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *deeph*
> 
> This is what it looks like. Have much room for air to flow.


Why do you need such a big power supply for just one fan


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *deeph*
> 
> This is what it looks like. Have much room for air to flow.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Before I was thinking about smaller case just enough to fit my parts though. But after I put them in this case, the case looks big. Then read your reply that actually right with big case that air will flow better and I agree with you.
> I will look for 140mm fans but what is your preferred speed at 12V should I take?


It's not the area inside of case that makes better airflow, it's the vent area the air flows through to enter and leave the case.

You had me wondering about the size difference so I checked it out. Below is size comparison to scale . I think the Evolv is much small than the Evolv ATX, especially it's depth.
Biggest difference between Evolv and Evolv ITX is height, and that added height translates to more front and back vent area (wiht PCIe slots used as vents).


----------



## deeph

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *michael-ocn*
> 
> Why do you need such a big power supply for just one fan


Hehe...psu just about 550W, maybe to spare the wattage for future peripherals, maybe...








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> It's not the area inside of case that makes better airflow, it's the vent area the air flows through to enter and leave the case.
> 
> You had me wondering about the size difference so I checked it out. Below is size comparison to scale . I think the Evolv is much small than the Evolv ATX, especially it's depth.
> Biggest difference between Evolv and Evolv ITX is height, and that added height translates to more front and back vent area (wiht PCIe slots used as vents).


Thanks to clarify that.

So for better air flow with 140mm fans on the front, would two 1300rpm fans just fine?


----------



## Ukaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Duality92*
> 
> check here
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1568214/phanteks-primo-measurements-resource


Thanks for you answer but your link doesn't say if a 60mm radiator fit with fans of 24mm in push/pull at the top.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ukaz*
> 
> Thanks for you answer but your link doesn't say if a 60mm radiator fit with fans of 24mm in push/pull at the top.


In which case?


----------



## Ukaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> In which case?


Enthoo primo with a asus X99 deluxe motherboard .


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *prava*
> 
> Riiiiiiiiiiiiiight, let's make a blunder on a high-end case
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> No thank you. Also, even on the left side I'm not sure I'd trade the hinges for a whole glass panel. Don't get me wrong, I'd love the window to be glass instead of the plastic its made of atm, but since I can cherry-pick I'll take the standard, Galaxy Silver version.
> 
> PS: jeeez can't wait until wednesday to finally arrive


You need to think about what you are posting and show a little respect.!









Painting glass is simple, easy to remove and damages nothing. A cheap spray came will paint the inside surface black with a mirror finish when viewed from outside. Removing it is as simple as wiping the glass with paint thinner and it is a nice clean glass window again.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ukaz*
> 
> Thanks for you answer but your link doesn't say if a 60mm radiator fit with fans of 24mm in push/pull at the top.


I get better flow with 2x PH-F140SP in front, no fan in top, no fan in back.
The two front 140mm fans are all I'm using. I have the Evolv ATX, not the Evolv, but same principle applies to both. With good intake fans no exhaust fans are usually needed.

I just got some TY-147A Sq (square TY-147A fans) and I'm going to do some comparison testing with them against others in my Enthoo Luxe and Enthoo Evolv.


----------



## Duality92

I talked to a Phanteks rep yesterday as he agreed to sponsor my build, keep an eye out for my "The Duality" build! The link is in my signature!


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ukaz*
> 
> Enthoo primo with a asus X99 deluxe motherboard .


Yes, it will fit.

Just an observation - if you ask the entire question in a single post (i.e. - will a 360mm UT60 in push/pull fit in the top of an Enthoo Primo with an ASUS X99 Deluxe MB?) rather than only one or two variables at a time, it makes it much easier to answer, and people won't have to go back through your posts to try to put the whole question together.


----------



## megafettarsch

Hey guys,

i read a lot about this case but still got a few questions:

1. if i mount a radiator on the sidebracket...:
- can i only mount it with the tubes @ the top? or can i turn it upside down (inlet and outlet bottom)
- how thick can the radiator be (push and pull 25mm fans) before interfering with the 120x120mm slot in the bottom? i guess it is at least around 85mm because thats the height of a common psu?

2. i plan to build the loop like this:



but i dont know where to place my reservoir and pump.
i wanna do sli and get as much oc as i can as an amateur (so not ultra extreme, but i am willing to take everything i can get within my knowledge).
i dont wanna count on the reservoir-bracket in the middle since i read it may not fit to the some graphics card (i dont know how long pascal will be).
additionaly, if i use the "EK-XTOP Revo D5" pump/top combo, i dont see it fitting well into the back next to the psu. its natural stand will take the inlet horizontal, but the reservoir would feed it from above.
i could imagine buying a 120mm fan mount for a pump/reservoir-combo and just place it in the bottom on one of the 120 intake fans. wouldnt this disturb the airflow? advice is very welcome.

best regards


----------



## KaffieneKing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *megafettarsch*
> 
> /snip


Wouldn't it be better to mount a thick quad 120mm rad push/pull in the bottom and then have the res/pump combo mounted to the front intakes?

Aesthetically this to me would look the best, as it fills the otherwise empty space you would have at the bottom. Additionally you would have more rad which would mean better temps.


----------



## megafettarsch

for me the asthetics dont matter that much to be honest.
bottom radiator: i feel quite unconfident to push the warm air into the case (i know there is quite a lot debate on this, but why would i push warm air into the case if i can get a "free" 240mm rad on the side exhausting (it well get fresh air from bot and front))

but yeah because i dont know i am asking


----------



## KaffieneKing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *megafettarsch*
> 
> for me the asthetics dont matter that much to be honest.
> bottom radiator: i feel quite unconfident to push the warm air into the case (i know there is quite a lot debate on this, but why would i push warm air into the case if i can get a "free" 240mm rad on the side exhausting (it well get fresh air from bot and front))
> 
> but yeah because i dont know i am asking


That air being pushed through will only be 1 or 2 degrees hotter than ambient, so much cooler than your components. The problem for using rads as intakes is only a problem when you dont have proper exhaust, which you will do so thats a non issue.

I don't own this case so cant answer your side rad question but you can easily mount the pump/res combo to any 120mm fan using various holders, such as these EK ones


----------



## megafettarsch

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaffieneKing*
> 
> That air being pushed through will only be 1 or 2 degrees hotter than ambient, so much cooler than your components. The problem for using rads as intakes is only a problem when you dont have proper exhaust, which you will do so thats a non issue.
> 
> I don't own this case so cant answer your side rad question but you can easily mount the pump/res combo to any 120mm fan using various holders, such as these EK ones


Mhh... Yeah okay the bottom radiator would make sense too. I dont know. With my idea i would have just one 120mm rad less and i would really use all the possiblitys coming with this case plus the fresh air from bottom. with a quad radiator in bottom i will probably not use side and lower rear mounts. mhhmhmhh so much possibilitys









Still the pump and res question: is it just a valid approach to place it somewhere in the case on some fans without interrupting the airflow to much? in some way it would block the space doesnt it? i would like to use the rear resorvoir clipper but i think it would clash with the bottom rad (whichever i would install) aaaaand the pump has to be placed somewhere too. pump/res combo on 120mm fan really seams to be sooo eassy.

mhmh


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *megafettarsch*
> 
> Hey guys,
> 
> i read a lot about this case but still got a few questions:
> 
> 1. if i mount a radiator on the sidebracket...:
> - can i only mount it with the tubes @ the top? or can i turn it upside down (inlet and outlet bottom)
> - how thick can the radiator be (push and pull 25mm fans) before interfering with the 120x120mm slot in the bottom? i guess it is at least around 85mm because thats the height of a common psu?
> 
> 2. i plan to build the loop like this:
> 
> 
> 
> but i dont know where to place my reservoir and pump.
> i wanna do sli and get as much oc as i can as an amateur (so not ultra extreme, but i am willing to take everything i can get within my knowledge).
> i dont wanna count on the reservoir-bracket in the middle since i read it may not fit to the some graphics card (i dont know how long pascal will be).
> additionaly, if i use the "EK-XTOP Revo D5" pump/top combo, i dont see it fitting well into the back next to the psu. its natural stand will take the inlet horizontal, but the reservoir would feed it from above.
> i could imagine buying a 120mm fan mount for a pump/reservoir-combo and just place it in the bottom on one of the 120 intake fans. wouldnt this disturb the airflow? advice is very welcome.
> 
> best regards


The Revo D5 will fit in the rear reservoir mount. It will also fit on the front reservoir mount, unless you are using really odd GPU blocks. Speaking of GPUs....how many are you using? The 720mm of rad should be more than sufficient for even tri-SLI+CPU, so what purpose is the oddly placed 120mm supposed to serve?


----------



## megafettarsch

2 way sli

"The Revo D5 will fit in the rear reservoir mount."
ööhm now i am a bit confused, since the revo d5 is the pump and not a reservoir. u mean a combo?
with rear u mean next to the pci-e slots or next to the psu behind the shroud?

the oddly placed 120mm radiator:
i thought if i am gonna go for it, it cant be to much







. it could be pretty thick and it will get super fresh cool air and will exhaust it directly. seemed pretty perfect (except the blocking bottom fan which i could just omit if its to much blocked).

btw i cant find any vario d5 pump-reservoir combo







i like the approach of configuring, leave it and its out of mind.
if i take the ekwb d5 vario motor with matching the ekwb top, could i fix it to a reservoir to handle it like a combo-unit?

sorry for this many questions


----------



## KaffieneKing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *megafettarsch*
> 
> 2 way sli
> 
> "The Revo D5 will fit in the rear reservoir mount."
> ööhm now i am a bit confused, since the revo d5 is the pump and not a reservoir. u mean a combo?
> with rear u mean next to the pci-e slots or next to the psu behind the shroud?
> 
> the oddly placed 120mm radiator:
> i thought if i am gonna go for it, it cant be to much
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . it could be pretty thick and it will get super fresh cool air and will exhaust it directly. seemed pretty perfect (except the blocking bottom fan which i could just omit if its to much blocked).
> 
> btw i cant find any vario d5 pump-reservoir combo
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i like the approach of configuring, leave it and its out of mind.
> if i take the ekwb d5 vario motor with matching the ekwb top, could i fix it to a reservoir to handle it like a combo-unit?
> 
> sorry for this many questions


You could get a bay res/pump combo


----------



## megafettarsch

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaffieneKing*
> 
> You could get a bay res/pump combo


mhh my plan was to use the upper front to mount an intake fan somehow (probably a 120mm bay mount since i saw this one on amazon)


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *megafettarsch*
> 
> 2 way sli
> 
> "The Revo D5 will fit in the rear reservoir mount."
> ööhm now i am a bit confused, since the revo d5 is the pump and not a reservoir. u mean a combo?
> with rear u mean next to the pci-e slots or next to the psu behind the shroud?
> 
> the oddly placed 120mm radiator:
> i thought if i am gonna go for it, it cant be to much
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . it could be pretty thick and it will get super fresh cool air and will exhaust it directly. seemed pretty perfect (except the blocking bottom fan which i could just omit if its to much blocked).
> 
> btw i cant find any vario d5 pump-reservoir combo
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i like the approach of configuring, leave it and its out of mind.
> if i take the ekwb d5 vario motor with matching the ekwb top, could i fix it to a reservoir to handle it like a combo-unit?
> 
> sorry for this many questions


I assumed you were using the pump/res combo, so that was what I was referring to. You can very simply set the PWM pump at the speed you like using your BIOS and/or fan control software. That also gives you the ability to easily make fine adjustments as you like.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *megafettarsch*
> 
> mhh my plan was to use the upper front to mount an intake fan somehow (probably a 120mm bay mount since i saw this one on amazon)


Don't forget about the fact that there is a solid door in front of it.

You seem to be taking the "filling every possible spot must be better" approach.....that really isn't necessarily the case.


----------



## megafettarsch

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> I assumed you were using the pump/res combo, so that was what I was referring to. You can very simply set the PWM pump at the speed you like using your BIOS and/or fan control software. That also gives you the ability to easily make fine adjustments as you like.


i am a bit unsure, because:
1. for filling the loop, a vario seems a lot easier, because i just have to apply power to the pump. with pwm i have to manage this too
2. i think the mainboard just have one real 4pin pwm header, which i wanted to use for the radiator fans (speed up when its getting hot and slow down when idle). i think its a bad idea to couple fans and pump or? i read pump is usually a onetime adjustment (more or less)

yeah if i mount the pump/res on a fan/fanmount i would like to get a combounit, but like i said prefer without pwm. cant find this in ekwb online shop (which i like ^^ )
or i make 2 units. but then i still dont know where to place the pump and reservoir (maybe its blocking the graphics card in the future so i need an alternative)


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *megafettarsch*
> 
> i am a bit unsure, because:
> 1. for filling the loop, a vario seems a lot easier, because i just have to apply power to the pump. with pwm i have to manage this too
> 2. i think the mainboard just have one real 4pin pwm header, which i wanted to use for the radiator fans (speed up when its getting hot and slow down when idle). i think its a bad idea to couple fans and pump or? i read pump is usually a onetime adjustment (more or less)
> 
> yeah if i mount the pump/res on a fan/fanmount i would like to get a combounit, but like i said prefer without pwm. cant find this in ekwb online shop (which i like ^^ )
> or i make 2 units. but then i still dont know where to place the pump and reservoir (maybe its blocking the graphics card in the future so i need an alternative)


The fill process is exactly the same. You simply power the pump, and the PWM runs at 60%. But, if you only have one PWM header, that does become an issue with your fan control.

You can purchase the REVO pump/res combo with no pump on the EK site, and purchase a vario separately.

The pump/res combo will fit in either of the reservoir mounts with no issue.


----------



## megafettarsch

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> The fill process is exactly the same. You simply power the pump, and the PWM runs at 60%. But, if you only have one PWM header, that does become an issue with your fan control.
> 
> You can purchase the REVO pump/res combo with no pump on the EK site, and purchase a vario separately.
> 
> The pump/res combo will fit in either of the reservoir mounts with no issue.


yeah i see. i guess i am going for it since i dont know where to place these things better.

so whats your final advice ?








pump/res-combo in the lower rear? or just put it somewhere on the bottom fans/rads? or even in the front?
and what about my oddly located radiators? better go for the quad bottom one?


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *megafettarsch*
> 
> yeah i see. i guess i am going for it since i dont know where to place these things better.
> 
> so whats your final advice ?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> pump/res-combo in the lower rear? or just put it somewhere on the bottom fans/rads? or even in the front?
> and what about my oddly located radiators? better go for the quad bottom one?


Were it me, using your preferred brands.....

360 or 480 up top, 280mm UT60 or XT45 in p/p on the floor (as intake), res/pump combo on the front reservoir mount (right in front of the GPUs). No 240mm in the side.

And I would definitely recommend going with quality fans - GTs, eLoops or Vardars. That p/p up top is going to be very audible in the Primo. Marginal fans like Corsair, or ones with known motor noise like the Noctua PPC will make you crazy.


----------



## megafettarsch

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Were it me, using your preferred brands.....
> 
> 360 or 480 up top, 280mm UT60 or XT45 in p/p on the floor (as intake), res/pump combo on the front reservoir mount (right in front of the GPUs). No 240mm in the side.
> 
> And I would definitely recommend going with quality fans - GTs, eLoops or Vardars. That p/p up top is going to be very audible in the Primo. Marginal fans like Corsair, or ones with known motor noise like the Noctua PPC will make you crazy.


i guess i am going for the vardars. how much rpm do it need? ^^


----------



## Faster_is_better

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *megafettarsch*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Were it me, using your preferred brands.....
> 
> 360 or 480 up top, 280mm UT60 or XT45 in p/p on the floor (as intake), res/pump combo on the front reservoir mount (right in front of the GPUs). No 240mm in the side.
> 
> And I would definitely recommend going with quality fans - GTs, eLoops or Vardars. That p/p up top is going to be very audible in the Primo. Marginal fans like Corsair, or ones with known motor noise like the Noctua PPC will make you crazy.
> 
> 
> 
> i guess i am going for the vardars. how much rpm do it need? ^^
Click to expand...

You shouldn't need higher than 1800rpm I would think. It's likely with as much rad as you want to use you won't even need above 1200rpm while stressing everything and at idle or low usage will probably be 800rpm or less.


----------



## n64ADL

for the phaneks ethnoo luxe can you put the power supply on the top of this case where you could put the 480mm radiator instead of at the bottom of the case????


----------



## Duality92

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *n64ADL*
> 
> for the phaneks ethnoo luxe can you put the power supply on the top of this case where you could put the 480mm radiator instead of at the bottom of the case????


I seriously do not think so.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *n64ADL*
> 
> for the phaneks ethnoo luxe can you put the power supply on the top of this case where you could put the 480mm radiator instead of at the bottom of the case????


Even if you mounted the PSU up top, I highly doubt a 480 would fit on the bottom.....unless you are going to cut a hole in the back and have part of it sticking out the rear.


----------



## 19DELTASNAFU

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *n64ADL*
> 
> for the phaneks ethnoo luxe can you put the power supply on the top of this case where you could put the 480mm radiator instead of at the bottom of the case????


No. What's wrong with a 360 and a 240. Motherboard is in the way and you'd have to plexi a mount.


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *n64ADL*
> 
> for the phaneks ethnoo luxe can you put the power supply on the top of this case where you could put the 480mm radiator instead of at the bottom of the case????


cannot put a psu in the top and this case does not support 480 rads. most 480 rads simply won't fit inside at all as the case' depth is 520 mm (perhaps the HWLabs 480 GTS or 480 stealth will fit barely). there is no room to put 4 x 120 mm fans under the top cover on the case as their are bunch of little posts in the way as well as the locking thing for the mesh cover.


----------



## Duality92

Radiators usually are the fans +40mm. So a 480mm radiator would be 520mm. the GTS is 518mm. The +40mm is a good rule of thumb to use.

However, there are expections. the Monstas are 552mm, so +72mm. Most likely due to all the ports that can be found.


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Duality92*
> 
> Radiators usually are the fans +40mm. So a 480mm radiator would be 520mm. the GTS is 518mm. The +40mm is a good rule of thumb to use.
> 
> However, there are expections. the Monstas are 552mm, so +72mm. Most likely due to all the ports that can be found.


depends and varies alot between the rads. for instance, the Coolgate G2 and G2 X flow 360 and 480 are something like 380 mm and 500 mm long, so +20 mm, but they are 65 mm thick. the Luxe has 65 mm of space above the motherboard and the top section can't hold 4 120mm fans. I've found that compatibility relies the most on how cases are designed rather than their dimensions. like the 750D can't do push/pull with most 420 rads on the top because a) the rear fan mount protrudes into the chassis creating a vertical barrier and b) the holes are fixed rather than slotted so the position of the rad can't be adjusted more toward the front of the case


----------



## 19DELTASNAFU

I'm going to be running an EK 360PE and a Black Ice Nemesis 240 in my case. Pics to come in a few days. Gutting the case, lining with white plexi plus some HDPE 1/2 inch backing where the open hole is when the drive cage and front brace were removed. Gonna do some mock ups of the parts and get you guys input on component placement. EK finally released the blocks for my Xtreme 980tis but I still don't have back plates. They have a black one but I want the shiny one. hehe. Really wish the factory backplates would work, they are awesome. If I can find two screw holes that will work I'm using them. Put together the monsoon 200mm res. All white EK vardars came in yesterday. Really haven't seen any all out custom builds in this case yet, probably because of the drive cages and the big hole in the rear panel. The 1/2 inch HDPE will be screwed and glued to fill the hole flush to the inside then 1/4 inch of white plexi, might use HDPE, covering the back wall of the case. Also 1/2 inch HDPE will be used in a 3x3 rectangle in all the top and bottom corners on the front of the case to remove ALL flex because I'm contemplating all glass 1/2 inch tubing. I will mock up the runs with PETG and test it then remove it and cut the glass to the same lengths. Should be a piece of cake right. hehe. I will have as much money in this case as I would have had with an 8 series caselabs. But it will be one of a kind and it will be mine and no one will have one like it. Got my full acrylic front panel a few days ago from Bill at MNPC Tech. Awesome work those guys do. I was going to mount the EK pwm 3.2 pump down flat on the floor but I thought it would look cool mounted on the back of the case, still down low but viewable. Thinking of making a HDPE piece that is about 6.5 inches high by 4.5 inches wide and screw and glue to the floor about where the phanteks logo is on the original case. I want to mount a bitspower flow meter there. Planning on just using a couple of bulkhead fittings and a 90 degree swivel into each side of the flowmeter so it would kinda follow the theme of the res which I plan on having bulkhead fittings on the flow out so it looks like water is just running into it and not out. We'll see. Gonna use EK flexible tubing on the couple of short runs between the rear side panel and the rear wall of the case. I really hope it doesn't look cluttered


----------



## thenewguyltt

Still waiting impatiently for the Evolv Tempered Glass Edition to be released.. cmon Phanteks














Running my PC on the motherboard box at the moment


----------



## prava

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thenewguyltt*
> 
> Still waiting impatiently for the Evolv Tempered Glass Edition to be released.. cmon Phanteks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Running my PC on the motherboard box at the moment


Your comment reminds me of those who made a cardboard mock-up of the case they were waiting for. Like so:


----------



## Sebiale

I've never used PWM before and the manual isn't helping me understand it as much as I hoped.
If I have the 4-pin from the PWM plugged into CPU_OPT with both case fans that came pre-installed plugged in to the hub as well, then do I also need to plug in the SATA 12V (I would stick it into the SATA cable that currently runs to my HDD--should it get a separate cable for itself)?
The motherboard manual says that the CPU_OPT is:
Pin No. |Definition
1 |GND
2 |Speed Control
3 |Sense
4 |VCC

Does this mean it has the necessary PWM signal?


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sebiale*
> 
> I've never used PWM before and the manual isn't helping me understand it as much as I hoped.
> If I have the 4-pin from the PWM plugged into CPU_OPT with both case fans that came pre-installed plugged in to the hub as well, then do I also need to plug in the SATA 12V (I would stick it into the SATA cable that currently runs to my HDD--should it get a separate cable for itself)?
> The motherboard manual says that the CPU_OPT is:
> Pin No. |Definition
> 1 |GND
> 2 |Speed Control
> 3 |Sense
> 4 |VCC
> 
> Does this mean it has the necessary PWM signal?


Pin-4 needs to be PWM or control I do not know exactly what 'VCC' stands for. There doesn't seem to be a definittive answer. But what is for sure is 'VCC' label o pin-4 means it is not PWM controled.

What is your CPU_FAN header Pin No. |Definition?


----------



## Sebiale

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Pin-4 needs to be PWM or control I do not know exactly what 'VCC' stands for. There doesn't seem to be a definittive answer. But what is for sure is 'VCC' label o pin-4 means it is not PWM controled.
> 
> What is your CPU_FAN header Pin No. |Definition?


CPU_FAN:
Pin |No. Definition
1 |GND
2 |+12V
3 |Sense
4 |Speed Control


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sebiale*
> 
> CPU_FAN:
> Pin |No. Definition
> 1 |GND
> 2 |+12V
> 3 |Sense
> 4 |Speed Control


You sir, are the proud owner of a motherboard that has PWM on the CPU_FAN header but not on the CPU_OPT header.
'Speed Control' is the PWM speed control.
With it you can control the Phanteks PMW _controlled_ fan hub.

I'm not sure, but many of these fan hubs can be used as fan splitters. If you are only using a couple of normal wattage fans you can just plug the hub into the CPU_OPT fan header and let it power and control them with it's variable voltage. Add up the wattage / amperage of the fans and if it is 10 watt / 0.9 amp or less total you can safely use motherboard fan header power with many of these hubs.







.


----------



## Sebiale

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> You sir, are the proud owner of a motherboard that has PWM on the CPU_FAN header but not on the CPU_OPT header.
> 'Speed Control' is the PWM speed control.
> With it you can control the Phanteks PMW _controlled_ fan hub.
> 
> I'm not sure, but many of these fan hubs can be used as fan splitters. If you are only using a couple of normal wattage fans you can just plug the hub into the CPU_OPT fan header and let it power and control them with it's variable voltage. Add up the wattage / amperage of the fans and if it is 10 watt / 0.9 amp or less total you can safely use motherboard fan header power with many of these hubs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


But the CPU_OPT has Speed Control on it as well; they're identical besides +12V and VCC.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sebiale*
> 
> But the CPU_OPT has Speed Control on it as well; they're identical besides +12V and VCC.


You posted
Quote:


> The motherboard manual says that the CPU_OPT is:
> Pin No. |Definition
> 1 |GND
> 2 |Speed Control
> 3 |Sense
> 4 |VCC
> 
> CPU_FAN:
> Pin |No. Definition
> 1 |GND
> 2 |+12V
> 3 |Sense
> 4 |Speed Control


Your manual is trying to be idiot proof, but what is actually happening is it is causing problems.
'Speed Control' on pin-2 is not PWM. It is variable voltage.
'Speed Control' on pin-4 is PWM control.

Here is how header pin-out should be labeled. Makes it a lot easier to understand, at least to me.








This is the position of each of the pins and what a 3-pin fan header actually has compared to a 4-pin PWM fan header. Pins 1, 2 & 3 are all basically the same; Ground, Power and RPM sensor.


----------



## Sebiale

I see (I think).
So all that being the case, if I'm only running the default 200mm and 140mm through the hub, then I should be fine using just the 4-pin plugged into the CPU_OPT and leave the SATA 12V unplugged?


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sebiale*
> 
> I see (I think).
> So all that being the case, if I'm only running the default 200mm and 140mm through the hub, then I should be fine using just the 4-pin plugged into the CPU_OPT and leave the SATA 12V unplugged?


With 2 or 3 fans like these you will be fine.
Do yourself a favor and get two more PH-F140SP fans to replace the 200mm front fan. They run will move way more air and much lower noise levels. It's something most all of us here have done.


----------



## Sebiale

TYVM for the help.
I'm only a little concerned now at how quiet the fans are, but I've never had really quiet ones before.
The PSU fan doesn't run unless under a heavy load, same with the GTX 970. The CPU and case fans are on, but just don't seem to feel the need to run very fast either.
If I couldn't see that it was on I wouldn't know that it was. Cool, but kind of eerie after so long of having fans that always just ran at full blast regardless.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sebiale*
> 
> TYVM for the help.
> I'm only a little concerned now at how quiet the fans are, but I've never had really quiet ones before.
> The PSU fan doesn't run unless under a heavy load, same with the GTX 970. The CPU and case fans are on, but just don't seem to feel the need to run very fast either.
> If I couldn't see that it was on I wouldn't know that it was. Cool, but kind of eerie after so long of having fans that always just ran at full blast regardless.


Welcome to the modern world of well designed and build computer systems.


----------



## Adi811

Hi All
Sorry about my English is not so good :-S
I need a bit help to found a good pump to my system. I am a beginner for water cooling, but I try to learn more and more.
I built my first system about 5 years ago, it was a 13/16mm flexible pvc holes system. Now I try the Acrylic because I love this design.
My pc is about 90% ready and working at the moment with a temporary chine rubbish pump It is looking not bad and function good, but very noise.

My config details: AMD 8350 cpu and XSPC RayStorm WaterBlock V3, Asus gaming pro aura mb, Sapphire radeon R9 290 + Alphacool waterblock, 16GB Corsair ram,
Black Ice Nemesis Radiator GTS 280, Black Ice Nemesis Radiator GTS 240, 10/13mm acrylic tubes. I used about 0,7L liquid in this system at the moment.
I know it is not a nuclear power plant but my budget is not too big.

So what I looking at the moment: A good design and quiet of water pump including reservoir tank.

Please help me to found the better one. My budget is around £150

here are some pics from my built:




Regards,
Yanni


----------



## ITAngel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Adi811*
> 
> Hi All
> Sorry about my English is not so good :-S
> I need a bit help to found a good pump to my system. I am a beginner for water cooling, but I try to learn more and more.
> I built my first system about 5 years ago, it was a 13/16mm flexible pvc holes system. Now I try the Acrylic because I love this design.
> My pc is about 90% ready and working at the moment with a temporary chine rubbish pump It is looking not bad and function good, but very noise.
> 
> My config details: AMD 8350 cpu and XSPC RayStorm WaterBlock V3, Asus gaming pro aura mb, Sapphire radeon R9 290 + Alphacool waterblock, 16GB Corsair ram,
> Black Ice Nemesis Radiator GTS 280, Black Ice Nemesis Radiator GTS 240, 10/13mm acrylic tubes. I used about 0,7L liquid in this system at the moment.
> I know it is not a nuclear power plant but my budget is not too big.
> 
> So what I looking at the moment: A good design and quiet of water pump including reservoir tank.
> 
> Please help me to found the better one. My budget is around £150
> 
> here are some pics from my built:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Regards,
> Yanni


That is a pretty cool setup. Nice work!









I like the EK D5 Revo PWM Pump is pretty quiest.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Adi811*
> 
> Hi All
> Sorry about my English is not so good :-S
> I need a bit help to found a good pump to my system. I am a beginner for water cooling, but I try to learn more and more.
> I built my first system about 5 years ago, it was a 13/16mm flexible pvc holes system. Now I try the Acrylic because I love this design.
> My pc is about 90% ready and working at the moment with a temporary chine rubbish pump It is looking not bad and function good, but very noise.
> 
> My config details: AMD 8350 cpu and XSPC RayStorm WaterBlock V3, Asus gaming pro aura mb, Sapphire radeon R9 290 + Alphacool waterblock, 16GB Corsair ram,
> Black Ice Nemesis Radiator GTS 280, Black Ice Nemesis Radiator GTS 240, 10/13mm acrylic tubes. I used about 0,7L liquid in this system at the moment.
> I know it is not a nuclear power plant but my budget is not too big.
> 
> So what I looking at the moment: A good design and quiet of water pump including reservoir tank.
> 
> Please help me to found the better one. My budget is around £150
> 
> Regards,
> Yanni


Nice looking build, Yanni.

As @ITAngel mentioned, the D5 would be top choice. You don't need to limit yourself to EK. D5s are D5s, regardless of the brand name on them. PWM circuitry may vary a little between brands, but that is all.

I haven't used one yet, but the Aquastream Ultimate has been getting very good reviews from some top users, and is well within your budget. Definitely worth a look - http://www.aquatuning.de/water-cooling/pumps/eheim-104648/1046-pumps/20381/aquacomputer-aquastream-ultimate-version


----------



## Adi811

Thanks Angel








I looking this one at the moment: EK-XRES 140 DDC 3.2 PWM Elite
is it same about yours?

https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-xres-140-ddc-3-2-pwm-elite-incl-pump

Cheers


----------



## Adi811

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Nice looking build, Yanni.
> 
> As @ITAngel mentioned, the D5 would be top choice. You don't need to limit yourself to EK. D5s are D5s, regardless of the brand name on them. PWM circuitry may vary a little between brands, but that is all.
> 
> I haven't used one yet, but the Aquastream Ultimate has been getting very good reviews from some top users, and is well within your budget. Definitely worth a look - http://www.aquatuning.de/water-cooling/pumps/eheim-104648/1046-pumps/20381/aquacomputer-aquastream-ultimate-version


Thanks Ciarlatano
I'll consider yours one as well


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Adi811*
> 
> Thanks Angel
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I looking this one at the moment: EK-XRES 140 DDC 3.2 PWM Elite
> is it same about yours?
> 
> https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-xres-140-ddc-3-2-pwm-elite-incl-pump
> 
> Cheers


No, he is using the D5 - https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-xtop-revo-d5-pwm-incl-pump

As I said, that really is the top choice. I just don't know how it prices out in Europe.


----------



## ITAngel

Cheers[/quote]
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Adi811*
> 
> Thanks Angel
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I looking this one at the moment: EK-XRES 140 DDC 3.2 PWM Elite
> is it same about yours?
> 
> https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-xres-140-ddc-3-2-pwm-elite-incl-pump
> 
> Cheers


No mine is the one here

https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-xres-140-revo-d5-pwm-incl-pump

But the one you selected on your link is a good pump as well.


----------



## Adi811

Thanks for help
I have to double check which one fit professionally into my case
I take some more pics if I got the missing parts
unfortunately I got a lake about a rubbish flow meter.
It was in the system first time. Now I waiting the replacement one.


----------



## Mr0czny

did any of you removed top panel from Evolv ATX ?

or can explain how to remove top panel

i was thinking about cutting holes to improve airflow,


----------



## Fiercy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr0czny*
> 
> did any of you removed top panel from Evolv ATX ?
> 
> or can explain how to remove top panel
> 
> i was thinking about cutting holes to improve airflow,


It's easy to remove just push it it will pop out like the front panel does. I think this case has horrible airflow and I just returned it.


----------



## zenn84

I've got the Matx version, wish I had some cnc machine to cut perfect holes in the top though. Cause the thick aluminium is hard to cut neatly by hand. Or some slits similar to those on the side, with some mesh underneath. Although just using a perforated mesh as a guide to a drill multipable small holes might just do the trick, making it look tight.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr0czny*
> 
> did any of you removed top panel from Evolv ATX ?
> 
> or can explain how to remove top panel
> 
> i was thinking about cutting holes to improve airflow,


I removed mine and raised it on spacers .. think I used 6mm spacers. It is raised about the same amount as it sets on top of it mounting clips.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fiercy*
> 
> It's easy to remove just push it it will pop out like the front panel does. I think this case has horrible airflow and I just returned it.


Evolv ATX would be darn hard to push to release front or top. It does not have push to release clips.








Top has to have 4 screws removed (2x front and 2x back), then just pop it off, same as front pops off.


----------



## ITAngel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Adi811*
> 
> Thanks for help
> I have to double check which one fit professionally into my case
> I take some more pics if I got the missing parts
> unfortunately I got a lake about a rubbish flow meter.
> It was in the system first time. Now I waiting the replacement one.


Yea, the pump you listed I think is thinner than mine so might work and look better with your setup. Also like ciarlatano mention you can't go wrong with any of the D5s pumps just look for the style you want, res, and I would recommend PWM.


----------



## prava

I have no idea whether we have anybody from PHANTEKS in this thread, but anyway.

I am a proud owner of an EVOLV ATX, in Galaxy Silver and... well...

1) For starters, it looks AMAZING. I wasn't sold on the shape at first, but once you have it with you, it looks elegant. It just doesn't look like your typical computer case, not at all.

2) As elegant as it looks from afar... once you get closer, you get to understand what you have in front of you. Yes, the panels are AMAZING in person, being all metal. Nothing on the outside of the case suggests this is any different than a top of the line product

3) Once you get inside, the thing gets even better. PWM hub? Check. Best HDD mounting system you have ever used? Che... wait a moment. Seriously, wait a moment, because you have to understand what this cases HDD mounting system means. It means that you only occupy space that you want to use, and not have a mammoth full of HDD caddies that you will never use. But I love the trays so much I have my HDD just in there, since I think it looks very very good. Also... decent fans? Check, too. They do a fairly well job and go as low as 800rpm, though they might get lower with a different pwm control. Either way, I know that the problem with noise is the damn psu... I'll get an EVGA G2 and be done with it. More things... cable routing? Second to none. PSU shroud? This I'm torn between. The problem? You can't plug cables in the psu once you have it in. Which is a problem... but a minor if you plan ahead and stick all future cables you might need.

All in all? I have owned around 10 cases in the past decade, and this is the first one that nails everything. Yes, it has some minor problems that I will comment but, for what it is, It is hard not to love it.

Things to improve?

a) They should allow you to mount HDD on the right panel, by the motherboard. Since the inner panel is not flush, there should be plenty of space.

b) The psu shroud should be removable. It should also feature more holes if you cant to install the pump on top of it with a large fan on the front.

c) Air vents should be looked at, too. Can't say that the front is very restrictive... but the top is, no doubt.

In any case, A++++++++++++++ and very recommended. Need to tidy my desk up a bit and will upload some pictures. Damn, so beatufil on Galaxy Silver...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sebiale*
> 
> I see (I think).
> So all that being the case, if I'm only running the default 200mm and 140mm through the hub, then I should be fine using just the 4-pin plugged into the CPU_OPT and leave the SATA 12V unplugged?


I suggest you plug the SATA 12V. It makes no sense that you don't have it plugged in. You might fry your motherboards connector at startup.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fiercy*
> 
> It's easy to remove just push it it will pop out like the front panel does. I think this case has horrible airflow and I just returned it.


You would be right on the mATX version... but on the ATX, it is screwed on.


----------



## kcuestag

Hey guys,

How do you remove the front panel on an Enthoo Luxe? Or what's the easiest way to remove the intake front filter?

Probably a stupid question, but I don't want to break the case by trying.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *prava*
> 
> I have no idea whether we have anybody from PHANTEKS in this thread, but anyway.
> 
> I am a proud owner of an EVOLV ATX, in Galaxy Silver and... well...


Welcome to the Phanteks club.


----------



## prava

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> Hey guys,
> 
> How do you remove the front panel on an Enthoo Luxe? Or what's the easiest way to remove the intake front filter?
> 
> Probably a stupid question, but I don't want to break the case by trying.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Welcome to the Phanteks club.


^^

Need to contact Phanteks though. The white led that came already installed is dead, and the top USB's are a bit finicky...


----------



## Duality92

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *prava*
> 
> ^^
> 
> Need to contact Phanteks though. The white led that came already installed is dead, and the top USB's are a bit finicky...


@brian-phanteks lurks the forums reguarly









There's also http://phanteks.com/forum/forum.php


----------



## sav4

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> Hey guys,
> 
> How do you remove the front panel on an Enthoo Luxe? Or what's the easiest way to remove the intake front filter?
> 
> Probably a stupid question, but I don't want to break the case by trying.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Welcome to the Phanteks club.


From memory take bottom filter out and pull the bottom it's clipped in.
http://www.overclockersclub.com/reviews/phanteks_enthoo_luxe/2.htm


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> Hey guys,
> 
> How do you remove the front panel on an Enthoo Luxe? Or what's the easiest way to remove the intake front filter?
> 
> Probably a stupid question, but I don't want to break the case by trying.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> :


I often use something like a plastic knife or table knife (smooth with no sharp edges) to slip inot the crack an spring clips loose. It helps keep the panel from popping out 10cm on one end and possibly breaking the clips on other end.


----------



## pez

I think I'm actually about to pull the trigger on an Enthoo Pro M Acrylic. Love the side panel, and I've also added the PWM controller along with an extra SSD bracket. I was previously looking at the Evolv ATX, but didn't feel I'd get as much airflow as I wanted. Ultimately it came down to the Define S vs. this case, and I think I'm definitely leaning this way.

One concern I have is that I would like to keep my BD drive, but had the idea to recess it and potentially mod the cover to either flip down, or attach it to the tray and sand down/break away the clips so that when closed it sits flush. Do you guys think this is doable? I see that it has sliders so that you can fine-tune how the ODD sits regardless, so worst case I'm still not mad. And I've still got plenty of room for the 140mm fans I want to throw up front.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pez*
> 
> I think I'm actually about to pull the trigger on an Enthoo Pro M Acrylic. Love the side panel, and I've also added the PWM controller along with an extra SSD bracket. I was previously looking at the Evolv ATX, but didn't feel I'd get as much airflow as I wanted. Ultimately it came down to the Define S vs. this case, and I think I'm definitely leaning this way.
> 
> One concern I have is that I would like to keep my BD drive, but had the idea to recess it and potentially mod the cover to either flip down, or attach it to the tray and sand down/break away the clips so that when closed it sits flush. Do you guys think this is doable? I see that it has sliders so that you can fine-tune how the ODD sits regardless, so worst case I'm still not mad. And I've still got plenty of room for the 140mm fans I want to throw up front.


Getting an external 5.25" enclosure sounds a lot more logical.


----------



## doyll

Logic?








Some thnk it's highly over-rated.









But i do agree, an external optical drive might be a better option. Guess it depends on how often you use it.


----------



## pez

I have an external DVD drive, but I buy Blurays and CDs still, so ODD is still fairly important to me. Unless I've been looking in the wrong places, external drives exist, but are few and far between, and are not attractive looking in the least







.

Fortunately I've seen some builds with the ODD present and it doesn't stick out like a sore thumb as I thought it would. But the question remains: can you recess the drive a bit, or does the bezel of an ODD manage to get in the way prior to this? If I could recess it enough, the mod would be fairly easy







.

And doyll since I see you're active in here, what are your thoughts on the Evolv ATX vs Enthoo Pro M vs Define S? If I determined I could eliminate the ODD and suck it up to attach it externally and do my movies/CDs in bulk at one time, then I could technically do without the Pro M, though I like what seems to be it's feature of better airflow over the Evolv ATX.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pez*
> 
> I have an external DVD drive, but I buy Blurays and CDs still, so ODD is still fairly important to me. Unless I've been looking in the wrong places, external drives exist, but are few and far between, and are not attractive looking in the least
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> Fortunately I've seen some builds with the ODD present and it doesn't stick out like a sore thumb as I thought it would. But the question remains: can you recess the drive a bit, or does the bezel of an ODD manage to get in the way prior to this? If I could recess it enough, the mod would be fairly easy
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> And doyll since I see you're active in here, what are your thoughts on the Evolv ATX vs Enthoo Pro M vs Define S? If I determined I could eliminate the ODD and suck it up to attach it externally and do my movies/CDs in bulk at one time, then I could technically do without the Pro M, though I like what seems to be it's feature of better airflow over the Evolv ATX.


Just cus I'm active doesn't mean I know anything, only that I'm opinionated.

I'm using a Luxe (downsized from Primo), Evolv ATX and an old Defirne R2 (wife's rig now.)
While the Evolv does not have the flow of Luxe, I have no heat / airflow problems.
I have to say, the Evolv is one sexy case!
With Luxe I taped the PSU filter to bottom vent filter and now all bottom filters slide front for cleaning. No need to move case.








Evolv is smaller w/ no bottom filters w/ only PSU vent and filter. (error caught by prava:thumb:

Define S is so close in size and price to Define R5 I think I would go R5.
Full length bottom filter sliding out the front. (i really like being able to clean filters without movig case.)
Door hides ODD and muffles intake noise
Not sure how good the stock fans are .. they used to be marginal at best.

In my opinion Phanteks needs a smaller version of Primo in ATX format. The Case only need an ATX interior instead of the ITX / mATX is currently is.

Edit:
I have scaled comparison of both cases, but for some reason I can't get it to load onto forum.









Finally got it!








)


----------



## pez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Just cus I'm active doesn't mean I know anything, only that I'm opinionated.
> 
> I'm using a Luxe (downsized from Primo), Evolv ATX and an old Defirne R2 (wife's rig now.)
> While the Evolv does not have the flow of Luxe, I have no heat / airflow problems.
> I have to say, the Evolv is one sexy case!
> With Luxe I taped the PSU filter to bottom vent filter and now all bottom filters slide front for cleaning. No need to move case.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Evolv is smaller w/ no bottom filters
> 
> Define S is so close in size and price to Define R5 I think I would go R5.
> Full length bottom filter sliding out the front. (i really like being able to clean filters without movig case.)
> Door hides ODD and muffles intake noise
> Not sure how good the stock fans are .. they used to be marginal at best.
> 
> In my opinion Phanteks needs a smaller version of Primo in ATX format. The Case only need an ATX interior instead of the ITX / mATX is currently is.
> 
> Edit:
> I have scaled comparison of both cases, but for some reason I can't get it to load onto forum.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally got it!


Haha, yes, but I've always valued your opinions as they tend to be very neutral and ultimately you're out to help those who ask with honest answers that show both sides of things







.

I thought about the R5, and like you said, the front dust filter removal is ideal considering how my case is positioned, but it's not exactly a deal breaker. However, like you said, disguising the ODDs and muffling the intake are great features. It took the R4 and everything I like about my current 550D and improved it. That's partially why I haven't paid it much mind is because it's so similar to my case. I just figured something like the Define S would be great considering I can put 3 intakes on it, and a rear exhaust and be set. Clean, simple, and quiet. However, I'm really not a fan of how the moduvent system looks in the end. That's the appeal of the top-side of the Pro M Acrylic for me.

Oh and my intakes are pointed away from me, so I don't usually notice intake noise like most do







. I plan on getting the PWM module if I do the Pro M, and possible replacing all the Corsair fans with Nidec GT 1850s. I believe the stock fans on the Pro M are the G14s.


----------



## prava

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Evolv is smaller w/ no bottom filters


Minor correction: the Evolv ATX has a filter on the psu... but has no other filters on the rest of the bottom because it has no openings there. So, the case has filters in any space that could be used as an intake.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *prava*
> 
> Minor correction: the Evolv ATX has a filter on the psu... but has no other filters on the rest of the bottom because it has no openings there. So, the case has filters in any space that could be used as an intake.


Good catch!








I edited original post.


----------



## doyll

The long awaited
*Enthoo Evolv ATX Tempered Glass Edition* has now been officially added to website!

Found this morning!
http://phanteks.com/Enthoo-Evolv-ATX-TemperedGlass.html

They have manual download, but it is normal metal door w/ window case.

At this time I do not find anything on PhanteksUSA website, only the Phanteks website. But it is early in the day in Europe and still Dark:30AM in America so may be posted a little later.

I'll give a noon update.


----------



## AlDyer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> The long awaited *Enthoo Evolv ATX Tempered Glass release* has now been officially added to website!
> 
> Found this morning!
> http://phanteks.com/Enthoo-Evolv-ATX-TemperedGlass.html
> 
> They have manual download, but it is normal metal door w/ window case.
> 
> At this time I do not find anything on PhanteksUSA website, only the Phanteks website. But it is early in the day in Europe and still Dark:30AM in America so may be posted a little later.
> 
> I'll give a noon update.


Sick looking case, my Enthoo Pro M is slightly jealous here, although to be honest the Pro M does everything well enough for my modest needs.


----------



## prava

Since TTIWWP... I'll post some of my own baby:


----------



## OneFunGenesis

Oh boy!! The glass is finally out! I cant wait for pricing and to see who will carry it! I hope it hits store shelves soon and for a reasonable price!


----------



## Duality92

I wasn't expecting the back of the case to be glass also!


----------



## prava

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Duality92*
> 
> I wasn't expecting the back of the case to be glass also!


The back? You mean the right panel, right? I'm jelaous of the RGB leds on the glass version... other than that, I'll keep my standard one, tyvm ^^


----------



## Duality92

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *prava*
> 
> The back? You mean the right panel, right? I'm jelaous of the RGB leds on the glass version... other than that, I'll keep my standard one, tyvm ^^


Yeah, the back side panel.









I call it back side panel because it's where you hide this and I tend to see the side with hardware as the front side panel side, but that might just be me xD


----------



## OneFunGenesis

I didn't expect the right side panel to be glass either. Honestly, I would have preferred it to be solid to hide things....like my drain port


----------



## doyll

Indeed! Some of us need somewhere to hid things.








.


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> The long awaited
> *Enthoo Evolv ATX Tempered Glass Edition* has now been officially added to website!
> 
> Found this morning!
> http://phanteks.com/Enthoo-Evolv-ATX-TemperedGlass.html
> 
> They have manual download, but it is normal metal door w/ window case.
> 
> At this time I do not find anything on PhanteksUSA website, only the Phanteks website. But it is early in the day in Europe and still Dark:30AM in America so may be posted a little later.
> 
> I'll give a noon update.


Obligatory, "take my money".


----------



## prava

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> Obligatory, "take my money" *EDITION*.


Fixed that for ya'









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Duality92*
> 
> Yeah, the back side panel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I call it back side panel because it's where you hide this and I tend to see the side with hardware as the front side panel side, but that might just be me xD


I was like "How come the back is all glass? Mmmm let's check at the pictures.... mmmm... maybe he calls THAT the back of the case?









Anyway, it was also known that both sides would be made of glass. Should only the left one be made of glass, I would have bought it. Or maybe not, because the Galaxy Silver version is just pure pr0n.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneFunGenesis*
> 
> I didn't expect the right side panel to be glass either. Honestly, I would have preferred it to be solid to hide things....like my drain port


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Indeed! Some of us need somewhere to hid things.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


Nothing to hide... nothing to fear?


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *prava*
> 
> Fixed that for ya'
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was like "How come the back is all glass? Mmmm let's check at the pictures.... mmmm... maybe he calls THAT the back of the case?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anyway, it was also known that both sides would be made of glass. Should only the left one be made of glass, I would have bought it. Or maybe not, because the Galaxy Silver version is just pure pr0n.
> 
> Nothing to hide... nothing to fear?


Okay, what are you hiding for us?








I love building nice clean rigs, but I'm not into spending countless house modififying PSU cables or making custiom length Sata data cables. There extra length is supposed to be hidden behind the motherboard. It's one of the 10 cable management commandments on ston tablets.


----------



## OneFunGenesis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *prava*
> 
> Nothing to hide... nothing to fear?


I can now assume that you are just part of the federal government. Maybe NSA with your rhetoric lol


----------



## pez

Welp, I finally decided and ordered a Enthoo Pro M Acrylic. Also picked up another 140SP for intake.

Do you guys think I can get away with 2 of the 140SPs as intake and 1 for rear exhaust? I figure I might be pushing it with my cards in SLI generating the extra heat.

I've got a couple Corsair SP120s and about 3 AF140 just in case, but after reading on some more fans, I am trying to move away from them.


----------



## ITAngel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pez*
> 
> Welp, I finally decided and ordered a Enthoo Pro M Acrylic. Also picked up another 140SP for intake.
> 
> Do you guys think I can get away with 2 of the 140SPs as intake and 1 for rear exhaust? I figure I might be pushing it with my cards in SLI generating the extra heat.
> 
> I've got a couple Corsair SP120s and about 3 AF140 just in case, but after reading on some more fans, I am trying to move away from them.


Were did you order the acrylic window panel for the Pro M from? I may order one as well. Thanks


----------



## prava

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pez*
> 
> Welp, I finally decided and ordered a Enthoo Pro M Acrylic. Also picked up another 140SP for intake.
> 
> Do you guys think I can get away with 2 of the 140SPs as intake and 1 for rear exhaust? I figure I might be pushing it with my cards in SLI generating the extra heat.
> 
> I've got a couple Corsair SP120s and about 3 AF140 just in case, but after reading on some more fans, I am trying to move away from them.


I have 2 140SP as intakes on my Evolv ATX myself, and I'm quite happy with them. They might eventually go (if i decide to install 3 x Nidec 1450rpm that I have lying around) but, for the moment, they do a decent job and aren't too noisy. My temperatures are quite good, even though I have a power hungry 290X Tri-X (that will use almost as much power as your GTX970 SLI).


----------



## doyll

Here is the Evolv ATX Tempered Glass Edition


I have a bunch more pictures, but think the above gives a good enough explanation.


----------



## TheEnergy

Question for the Phanteks Evolv ATX users - the fan hub on the back of the PC connects to the CPU fan header correct? *Can it be plugged into the CPU_Fan 2 on the mobo?* I'm using CPU_Fan 1 4pin on my mobo for my Swiftech H320 x2 prestige cooler.

Call me stupid but what is even the point of the fan hub thing on the back of the Phanteks Evolv ATX? I currently have the fans of the case manually plugged into the CHA_FAN headers of my mobo.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XxAlbertoxX*
> 
> Question for the Phanteks Evolv ATX users - the fan hub on the back of the PC connects to the CPU fan header correct? *Can it be plugged into the CPU_Fan 2 on the mobo?* I'm using CPU_Fan 1 4pin on my mobo for my Swiftech H320 x2 prestige cooler.
> 
> Call me stupid but what is even the point of the fan hub thing on the back of the Phanteks Evolv ATX? I currently have the fans of the case manually plugged into the CHA_FAN headers of my mobo.


Of course you can. But it may not work properly. The reason is for the Phanteks PWM controlled fan hub needs a real PWM control signal on pin-4 on fan header. While most motherboards have this on CPU_FAN header not all have it on the CPU_OPT header, and most do not have it on any of their other 4-pin fan headers. I would suggest using CPU_FAN first to be sure everything is working properly, than move it to CPU_OPT and see if it functions properly. The H320 X2 Prestige will perform the same as fan hub on CPU_OPT, so if it does have PWM control either will work, if not neither will.








Nice cooler!









Okay, you asked for it, "Stupid!"








The point of having the fan hub is to control 3-pin case fans with PWM signal. The reason it is behind motherboard is to make fan leads less visible.








Not all motherboards have good fan control for case fans, although more and more are doing it.


----------



## prava

@brian-phanteks

Any chance we can buy the RGB features of the EVOLV ATX Glass edition for those who have a standard edition? It shouldn't be too difficult to install, since the case is 95% screwed in and not riveted.


----------



## pez

I hope they do a version of the Evolv ATX TG with just one panel as TG. I wasn't a big fan of the decision of both of them, but I can see why







.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ITAngel*
> 
> Were did you order the acrylic window panel for the Pro M from? I may order one as well. Thanks


I ordered mine from Newegg







. Amazon didn't have their's in stock, unfortunately.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *prava*
> 
> I have 2 140SP as intakes on my Evolv ATX myself, and I'm quite happy with them. They might eventually go (if i decide to install 3 x Nidec 1450rpm that I have lying around) but, for the moment, they do a decent job and aren't too noisy. My temperatures are quite good, even though I have a power hungry 290X Tri-X (that will use almost as much power as your GTX970 SLI).


Yeah, I think even with 2 intake and 1 exhaust, it's still going to have better airflow than I'm getting now







.

I played with my fans a bit the other day,and me having the top exhaust in my case is nearly necessary







.


----------



## rfarmer

Found this on Cragslist, all I could do is shake my head and laugh. You buy a case with awesome cable management and do that to it.


----------



## velocityx

For those that hate the back panel in Evolv ATX TG version, you can always buy a black vinyl and juz have a black glass panel. Problem solved.

I for one love it and can't wait for my Galaxy Silver;]


----------



## PureBlackFire

Phanteks should have made the rear panel opaque, all blacked out. and maybe an opaque front glass panel too.... but that would be a bit complicated to manufacture.


----------



## dlewbell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rfarmer*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Found this on Cragslist, all I could do is shake my head and laugh. You buy a case with awesome cable management and do that to it.


If that were in my area, I'd be tempted to ask if I could rewire it for them. That's the saddest install I've ever seen, & I started with a computer built by CyberPower.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dlewbell*
> 
> If that were in my area, I'd be tempted to ask if I could rewire it for them. That's the saddest install I've ever seen, & I started with a computer built by CyberPower.


cyber power has come a long way in the last few years but yeah that's a horrible job...reminds me of the old days when you didn't have an extension or fancy cable management compartments...now a days that's unacceptable...


----------



## Adi811

I am here again








I got the new pump. Works well, but something not good with the PWM setup

Here is the bios setup
sorry about the numbers are not good visible:



If I use these values the pump working on full speed.
60
20
70
40

If I change the values for
60
20
60
30 the pump lose about 1200 from speed

I don't know what is the good setup.
Please help me somebody!!

Here is my eventual loop


----------



## pez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rfarmer*
> 
> 
> 
> Found this on Cragslist, all I could do is shake my head and laugh. You buy a case with awesome cable management and do that to it.


*cringe*

He even used an adapter for the GPU. Like what PSU are you even running?


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pez*
> 
> *cringe*
> 
> He even used an adapter for the GPU. Like what PSU are you even running?


Yeah it's weird, says it has a Corsair 600 watt psu, the only 2 I see both have 2 X 6+2 pci connections. Who knows.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rfarmer*
> 
> Yeah it's weird, says it has a Corsair 600 watt psu, the only 2 I see both have 2 X 6+2 pci connections. Who knows.


he probably thought because it came with the adapter he had to use it...


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rfarmer*
> 
> Yeah it's weird, says it has a Corsair 600 watt psu, the only 2 I see both have 2 X 6+2 pci connections. Who knows.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> he probably thought because it came with the adapter he had to use it...


Or it is an older Corsair 600W that does not have PCIe cables. There were a number of them 5+ years ago.


----------



## Tapp

Hello. I've been reading for a few weeks and now I need to ask for help. I started my first build last night and everything was going fine until it came time to connect my Corsair H110GT cooler and case fans. I'm now confused by how to connect it. I have a Gigabyte Gaming 7 mobo with a 4-pin CPU header and a 4-Pin CPU_OPT.

The cooling block has two 4-pin connectors which I plugged my two PWM radiator fans into. The block also has a 3-pin connector that, per the manual, says to plug into my CPU connector. Is this the best configuration? I'd like to be able to control the fan speeds using the Corsair Link software.

Adding to my confusion is a PWM fan header on the back of my Phanteks Evolv ATX case, I have three other 140MM case fans that I'll be running through it. It has a 4-pin cable that says it should be connected to a mobo header. Would it work correctly if I ran that one to the CPU_OPT header? These fan connections, have me all confused. I'm comfortable with everything else in this first build but am baffled by the CPU cooler connection and case fans. I don't understand as well as I thought I did while doing my research.

This is what I think I want. I want to be able to control the AIO cooler fans and the other case fans can run normal. The case fans are Fractal Venturi HF fans and the radiator fans are Venturi PWM fans. Help a console guy out please because I has the confuse lol.

If anyone can explain to me how to connect this I'd appreciate it.


----------



## kcuestag

Phanteks Enthoo Luxe owners, with the Phanteks LED strip.

Should I go for the 2 meter version, or will 1 meter be enough for this case?


----------



## sav4

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> Phanteks Enthoo Luxe owners, with the Phanteks LED strip.
> 
> Should I go for the 2 meter version, or will 1 meter be enough for this case?


2 meter ?


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sav4*
> 
> 2 meter ?


Great, thanks!

Now I just need to find it in stock here in Spain.


----------



## prava

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> Great, thanks!
> 
> Now I just need to find it in stock here in Spain.


http://www.pccomponentes.com/phanteks_led_strips_led_rgb_2m.html

?


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *prava*
> 
> http://www.pccomponentes.com/phanteks_led_strips_led_rgb_2m.html
> 
> ?


Not in stock for a few days.


----------



## Duality92

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> Not in stock for a few days.


I personally wouldn't buy those LEDs.

See OC3D's video about the P400 and find the part where he speaks about the LEDs.




I would suggest Darkside LEDs or CableMods.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> Phanteks Enthoo Luxe owners, with the Phanteks LED strip.
> 
> Should I go for the 2 meter version, or will 1 meter be enough for this case?


The 2M will do two sides of the case, the 1m will do one side. It really depends on the look you are going for. I've used them in the Luxe a number of times and have had absolutely no issues, and they correspond perfectly with the accent lighting.


----------



## pez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tapp*
> 
> Hello. I've been reading for a few weeks and now I need to ask for help. I started my first build last night and everything was going fine until it came time to connect my Corsair H110GT cooler and case fans. I'm now confused by how to connect it. I have a Gigabyte Gaming 7 mobo with a 4-pin CPU header and a 4-Pin CPU_OPT.
> 
> The cooling block has two 4-pin connectors which I plugged my two PWM radiator fans into. The block also has a 3-pin connector that, per the manual, says to plug into my CPU connector. Is this the best configuration? I'd like to be able to control the fan speeds using the Corsair Link software.
> 
> Adding to my confusion is a PWM fan header on the back of my Phanteks Evolv ATX case, I have three other 140MM case fans that I'll be running through it. It has a 4-pin cable that says it should be connected to a mobo header. Would it work correctly if I ran that one to the CPU_OPT header? These fan connections, have me all confused. I'm comfortable with everything else in this first build but am baffled by the CPU cooler connection and case fans. I don't understand as well as I thought I did while doing my research.
> 
> This is what I think I want. I want to be able to control the AIO cooler fans and the other case fans can run normal. The case fans are Fractal Venturi HF fans and the radiator fans are Venturi PWM fans. Help a console guy out please because I has the confuse lol.
> 
> If anyone can explain to me how to connect this I'd appreciate it.


It sounds like you just need a fan splitter. You may already have a couple if you bought after market fans. If not, they're not more than a few bucks on Amazon or Newegg. This will allow you to plug your pump and PWM hub on the back of your case into the CPU_FAN connection.

Otherwise it sounds like you're on the right track. Plug your pump and PWM hub up to the CPU_FAN connection and the rest of your fans can go to the PWN hub slots.

If you do test the CPU_OPT, I would test it with the hub. The Corsair AIO units tend to need to be at 100% or somewhere near it to operate correctly without throwing an error code. The CPU_OPT on your board may function as a literal second CPU_FAN connection, but as brought up in this thread and some other before, that's not always the case with every motherboard.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tapp*
> 
> Hello. I've been reading for a few weeks and now I need to ask for help. I started my first build last night and everything was going fine until it came time to connect my Corsair H110GT cooler and case fans. I'm now confused by how to connect it. I have a Gigabyte Gaming 7 mobo with a 4-pin CPU header and a 4-Pin CPU_OPT.
> 
> The cooling block has two 4-pin connectors which I plugged my two PWM radiator fans into. The block also has a 3-pin connector that, per the manual, says to plug into my CPU connector. Is this the best configuration? I'd like to be able to control the fan speeds using the Corsair Link software.
> 
> Adding to my confusion is a PWM fan header on the back of my Phanteks Evolv ATX case, I have three other 140MM case fans that I'll be running through it. It has a 4-pin cable that says it should be connected to a mobo header. Would it work correctly if I ran that one to the CPU_OPT header? These fan connections, have me all confused. I'm comfortable with everything else in this first build but am baffled by the CPU cooler connection and case fans. I don't understand as well as I thought I did while doing my research.
> 
> This is what I think I want. I want to be able to control the AIO cooler fans and the other case fans can run normal. The case fans are Fractal Venturi HF fans and the radiator fans are Venturi PWM fans. Help a console guy out please because I has the confuse lol.
> 
> If anyone can explain to me how to connect this I'd appreciate it.


most motherboards cpu and cpu_opt are mirrored so the corsair 4 pin should be connected to the cpu header...now the hub should be connected to a pwm header not all boards have one that isn't cpu_opt duo your motherboard manual can tell you this...if you have a pwm header other than that you can connect the hub there and run it at whatever speeds you want based on motherboard settings or software in Windows...if not you may need to use cpu for the corsair and cpu_opt for the hub this will make all the fans speed up with the corsair link settings unless your motherboards cpu_opt is separate which most aren't....also need the corsair link usb connected also


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Duality92*
> 
> I personally wouldn't buy those LEDs.
> 
> See OC3D's video about the P400 and find the part where he speaks about the LEDs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I would suggest Darkside LEDs or CableMods.


I actually like the fact that I can connect the LED to the motherboard (VIII Hero) and control both the LED strip and the case integrated LED with the ASUS software to match my motherboard colors!









Though, at minute 19:35 he mentions I'd need an adapter to do that. What kind of adapter? Where can I buy it?

Edit:

Found it, looks like I'll have to buy that in the UK at Overclockers UK, nowhere to be found here in Spain.


----------



## Duality92

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> I actually like the fact that I can connect the LED to the motherboard (VIII Hero) and control both the LED strip and the case integrated LED with the ASUS software to match my motherboard colors!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Though, at minute 19:35 he mentions I'd need an adapter to do that. What kind of adapter? Where can I buy it?
> 
> Edit:
> 
> Found it, looks like I'll have to buy that in the UK at Overclockers UK, nowhere to be found here in Spain.


----------



## Tapp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pez*
> 
> It sounds like you just need a fan splitter. You may already have a couple if you bought after market fans. If not, they're not more than a few bucks on Amazon or Newegg. This will allow you to plug your pump and PWM hub on the back of your case into the CPU_FAN connection.
> 
> Otherwise it sounds like you're on the right track. Plug your pump and PWM hub up to the CPU_FAN connection and the rest of your fans can go to the PWN hub slots.
> 
> If you do test the CPU_OPT, I would test it with the hub. The Corsair AIO units tend to need to be at 100% or somewhere near it to operate correctly without throwing an error code. The CPU_OPT on your board may function as a literal second CPU_FAN connection, but as brought up in this thread and some other before, that's not always the case with every motherboard.


Thanks! Have the pump going to the CPU_Header and Case fans connected to the PWM hub with it running CPU_OPT. It worked, and I got my first POST last night. Was so happy when everything powered in the first time! Thanks again.


----------



## delslow

Before I pick this up, can I fit a 60mm 360 rad in push/pull in the front and a 360 rad on top?


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *delslow*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Before I pick this up, can I fit a 60mm 360 rad in push/pull in the front and a 360 rad on top?


No, 280 plus 360 is as big as you can go.


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *delslow*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Before I pick this up, can I fit a 60mm 360 rad in push/pull in the front and a 360 rad on top?


no. you can fit two slim 360's if you remove the top sliding bracket and drill holes in the case frame. and do not get a 60 mm thick 360 rad for this or ANY mid tower case. save you the headache right there.


----------



## delslow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PureBlackFire*
> 
> no. you can fit two slim 360's if you remove the top sliding bracket and drill holes in the case frame. and do not get a 60 mm thick 360 rad for this or ANY mid tower case. save you the headache right there.


I have a 360 in the front and a 360 in the top of my Define S right now. The front in push/pull, and the top in push. =(


----------



## TheReciever

Are there any Enthoo Mini XL build logs? Im interested in building a dual system next year


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> I actually like the fact that I can connect the LED to the motherboard (VIII Hero) and control both the LED strip and the case integrated LED with the ASUS software to match my motherboard colors!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Though, at minute 19:35 he mentions I'd need an adapter to do that. What kind of adapter? Where can I buy it?
> 
> Edit:
> 
> Found it, looks like I'll have to buy that in the UK at Overclockers UK, nowhere to be found here in Spain.


Did you try contacting Phanteks Customer Service or ordering direct from Phanteks online sailes?


----------



## pez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tapp*
> 
> Thanks! Have the pump going to the CPU_Header and Case fans connected to the PWM hub with it running CPU_OPT. It worked, and I got my first POST last night. Was so happy when everything powered in the first time! Thanks again.


Congrat! And no problem!

Doing that first build is very rewarding and it sounds like you did great!

EDIT:

Finally got my Pro M Acrylic build together. I can't wait to share some pictures with you guys a bit later. Gotta get some sleep. Idle temps are just idle temps, but they've dropped 5C on my CPU and 5C+ on both GPUs.


----------



## pez

Teaser/FYI. Unless I misunderstood about the first case (non acrylic version), people stated the side vents didn't have filters/mesh. After dealing with the front panel of the acrylic edition, I noticed where it slants in on the intake filter, that that small concave piece doesn't technically get filtered. The way it's pulling air in, it seems about 95% is getting filtered and a small percentage of dust makes it through. However, the side vents on the front panel do have mesh now.


----------



## Punter

The glass version of the Evolv ATX







(now available in Aus)

Can always remove the front panel if I need the airflow...


----------



## havoc764

Are there any good bay converters to convert the three 5.25 inch bays on the enthoo luxe to four 3.5 inch bays?


----------



## pez

Alright, got it into an album and ready to be viewed







. Very satisfied with how this case turned out!



http://imgur.com/X8Mbm


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *havoc764*
> 
> Are there any good bay converters to convert the three 5.25 inch bays on the enthoo luxe to four 3.5 inch bays?


Lain Li used to sell a 3 bay adapter, part # BZ502A and BZ502B (aluminium & black).
Scythe also sold one, part #: SCKB-1000BK .
SilverStone did too.
You might find one on ebay or such.

Lain Li sitll sell individual vent grills BZ501A or BZ501B and you could sort your own fan mounting.

DEMCiflex sell nice looking filters with magnetic mounting in all kinds of sizes and colors
http://www.demcifilter.com/c9/Square-Fan-Filters.aspx
Ehume did a thread about the conversion
http://www.overclock.net/t/1037539/intake-fan-in-a-5-25-bay-warning-graphics/0_20


----------



## havoc764

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Lain Li used to sell a 3 bay adapter, part # BZ502A and BZ502B (aluminium & black).
> Scythe also sold one, part #: SCKB-1000BK .
> SilverStone did too.
> You might find one on ebay or such.
> 
> Lain Li sitll sell individual vent grills BZ501A or BZ501B and you could sort your own fan mounting.
> 
> DEMCiflex sell nice looking filters with magnetic mounting in all kinds of sizes and colors
> http://www.demcifilter.com/c9/Square-Fan-Filters.aspx
> Ehume did a thread about the conversion
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1037539/intake-fan-in-a-5-25-bay-warning-graphics/0_20


Thanks, will have a look at them, i managed to find one myself from lian li, EX-36A2.
It converts 3 5.25 inch bays to 4 3.5 inch bays, altough i dont know if it is any good.

Kind of sad there is so little choice in these things seeing as most 5.25 inch bays go unused these days i figured there would be more choice.


----------



## zenn84

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *havoc764*
> 
> Thanks, will have a look at them, i managed to find one myself from lian li, EX-36A2.
> It converts 3 5.25 inch bays to 4 3.5 inch bays, altough i dont know if it is any good.
> 
> Kind of sad there is so little choice in these things seeing as most 5.25 inch bays go unused these days i figured there would be more choice.


In former builds with the frontbay left, I always used; http://www.lian-li.com/en/dt_portfolio/ex-332n/. Fits behind the original bezels most of the time.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *havoc764*
> 
> Thanks, will have a look at them, i managed to find one myself from lian li, EX-36A2.
> It converts 3 5.25 inch bays to 4 3.5 inch bays, altough i dont know if it is any good.
> 
> Kind of sad there is so little choice in these things seeing as most 5.25 inch bays go unused these days i figured there would be more choice.


The IcyDock pieces are always solid, as well - http://www.icydock.com/category.php?id=113


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *havoc764*
> 
> Thanks, will have a look at them, i managed to find one myself from lian li, EX-36A2.
> It converts 3 5.25 inch bays to 4 3.5 inch bays, altough i dont know if it is any good.
> 
> Kind of sad there is so little choice in these things seeing as most 5.25 inch bays go unused these days i figured there would be more choice.


Sorry, I miss-read and though you wanted a vent.

Be forewarned, most of these 3.5" mounting bays telegraph HDD noise way more than case HDD mounts, so are much louder.


----------



## havoc764

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Lain Li used to sell a 3 bay adapter, part # BZ502A and BZ502B (aluminium & black).
> Scythe also sold one, part #: SCKB-1000BK .
> SilverStone did too.
> You might find one on ebay or such.
> 
> Lain Li sitll sell individual vent grills BZ501A or BZ501B and you could sort your own fan mounting.
> 
> DEMCiflex sell nice looking filters with magnetic mounting in all kinds of sizes and colors
> http://www.demcifilter.com/c9/Square-Fan-Filters.aspx
> Ehume did a thread about the conversion
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1037539/intake-fan-in-a-5-25-bay-warning-graphics/0_20


Thanks, will have a look at them, i managed to find one myself from lian li, EX-36A2.
It converts 3 5.25 inch bays to 4 3.5 inch bays, altough i dont know if it is any good.

Kind of sad there is so little choice in these things seeing as most 5.25 inch bays go unused these days i figured there would be more choice.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Sorry, I miss-read and though you wanted a vent.
> 
> Be forewarned, most of these 3.5" mounting bays telegraph HDD noise way more than case HDD mounts, so are much louder.


I figured that, but what else am i to do with the 3 5.25 inch bays?
Not much else usefull for these bays anymore, with DVD/blu ray drives becoming pretty much obsolete except for a rare few occasions in which case a usb powered one will work just fine.
Fan controllers are also becoming less usefull with each generation of motherboards.
And using it as an HDD bay frees up the front slot for use with a radiator for example without losing much in the way of HDD space.
So to me it seems like the most useful use for it.

Kind of wish phanteks would come out with a good one.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *havoc764*
> 
> Thanks, will have a look at them, i managed to find one myself from lian li, EX-36A2.
> It converts 3 5.25 inch bays to 4 3.5 inch bays, altough i dont know if it is any good.
> 
> Kind of sad there is so little choice in these things seeing as most 5.25 inch bays go unused these days i figured there would be more choice.
> I figured that, but what else am i to do with the 3 5.25 inch bays?
> Not much else usefull for these bays anymore, with DVD/blu ray drives becoming pretty much obsolete except for a rare few occasions in which case a usb powered one will work just fine.
> Fan controllers are also becoming less usefull with each generation of motherboards.
> And using it as an HDD bay frees up the front slot for use with a radiator for example without losing much in the way of HDD space.
> So to me it seems like the most useful use for it.
> 
> Kind of wish phanteks would come out with a good one.


Indeed. I use mine for HDD and vent.


----------



## Scrimstar

Will a swiftech 320x2 fit a Phanteks Enthoo Evolv ATX, or should I get the Enthoo Luxe

Also interested in the TG Evolv, where can you get those. And is galaxy silver and white the same? theres so many monotones


----------



## typercivic93

Here's my submission. This is P400 one I did for my daughter since she wanted pink. Not too 100 percent happy with the tubes, so may do those again. Here's crappy Iphone Pic with reflection.


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *typercivic93*
> 
> Here's my submission. This is P400 one I did for my daughter since she wanted pink. Not too 100 percent happy with the tubes, so may do those again. Here's crappy Iphone Pic with reflection.


You built that for your daughter, can I be in your family?









Looks good.


----------



## dainfamous

Currently I have an air cooling setup with 3x PH-F120MP as intake and 1x PH-F140XP as exhaust in an Enthoo Pro M. If I were to replace the cpu air cooler with an Swiftech H240 x2 what would be the best setup? Mind you I am also running SLI graphics. The gfx coolers are reference.

Thanks!


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dainfamous*
> 
> Currently I have an air cooling setup with 3x PH-F120MP as intake and 1x PH-F140XP as exhaust in an Enthoo Pro M. If I were to replace the cpu air cooler with an Swiftech H240 x2 what would be the best setup? Mind you I am also running SLI graphics. The gfx coolers are reference.
> 
> Thanks!


Top mounted as exhaust. It will get plenty of cool air from the 3 F120MPs, and will keep the air in your case actually flowing.


----------



## Strider49

Hi,

I was just wondering: I have the five PH-F140SP fans of the Enthoo Primo hooked up to the fan hub. I've just realised that *each fan draws 0.14A*, so it appears I'm well within the limit of 1A per header on my M6H; nevertheless, I also have a molex from the PSU connected to the hub just in case. I believe that molex cable coming off the hub had a sticker saying something like "only attach if your motherboard doesn't supply enough power", so... is there a problem making this connection? Should I just drop it?

On another note, did the 12V input connector change between revisions of the Enthoo Primo? Mine is SATA, but I've noticed some folks have a molex connector there instead.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Strider49*
> 
> Hi,
> 
> I was just wondering: I have the five PH-F140SP fans of the Enthoo Primo hooked up to the fan hub. I've just realised that *each fan draws 0.14A*, so it appears I'm well within the limit of 1A per header on my M6H; nevertheless, I also have a molex from the PSU connected to the hub just in case. I believe that molex cable coming off the hub had a sticker saying something like "only attach if your motherboard doesn't supply enough power", so... is there a problem making this connection? Should I just drop it?
> 
> On another note, did the 12V input connector change between revisions of the Enthoo Primo? Mine is SATA, but I've noticed some folks have a molex connector there instead.


Keep the molex plugged in. It should really be used whenever there is more than two fans.

The early hubs had a molex, it was changed to SATA in later productions.


----------



## Strider49

Thank you, @ciarlatano. All is fine then.

My Primo has a SATA 12V input, the one that powers the LED switch, but the hub still have a molex.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Strider49*
> 
> Hi,
> 
> I was just wondering: I have the five PH-F140SP fans of the Enthoo Primo hooked up to the fan hub. I've just realised that *each fan draws 0.14A*, so it appears I'm well within the limit of 1A per header on my M6H; nevertheless, I also have a molex from the PSU connected to the hub just in case. I believe that molex cable coming off the hub had a sticker saying something like "only attach if your motherboard doesn't supply enough power", so... is there a problem making this connection? Should I just drop it?
> 
> On another note, did the 12V input connector change between revisions of the Enthoo Primo? Mine is SATA, but I've noticed some folks have a molex connector there instead.


ciarlatano answered your questions.








Welcome to the forum.


----------



## nycgtr

I am a watercooler, and I am debating on picking up the enthoo primo. This case has been around for a while now, and I got a feeling that due to its current 5.25 inch bays it's a bit outdated. Anyone know if they plan on coming out with an update version? I am not up for cutting the case to remove the 5.25 bays. Also any trouble spots that people have had in their build? Is this case still worth buying at this point?


----------



## dkevox

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nycgtr*
> 
> I am a watercooler, and I am debating on picking up the enthoo primo. This case has been around for a while now, and I got a feeling that due to its current 5.25 inch bays it's a bit outdated. Anyone know if they plan on coming out with an update version? I am not up for cutting the case to remove the 5.25 bays. Also any trouble spots that people have had in their build? Is this case still worth buying at this point?


Been watercooling for over 12 years now. I did a fresh system last year using the entho primo and couldn't be happier with the case.

there definitely are some catches to building in this case (like be very careful with radiator sizes and ask on here for compatibility), but besides that I found the design a pleasure to work in.

I removed all the lower 3.5" hard drive bays as i have dual loops with 2 D5s mounted in the case (one in back and one where the 5.25" bays were). but it was easy to setup.

I will say that with my Asus R5E and it's E-ATX form factor that it was a tight squeeze, but it fit no issues. Part of the board does extend behind the reservoir mount. Also, I had to slightly trim some metal from the reservoir mount to fit a 980Ti in one of the lower expansion slots. You wouldn't be able to fit a full length GPU in one of the bottom expansion slots with the reservoir bracket without cutting out quite a bit, but it could be doable.

I use an M.2 drive and a couple SSDs. I have room for 4 more SSDs in the back of the case, so not too worried about storage. Plan to setup a NAS bay for storage at some point when I run out of room, but I no longer see a point to 3.5" hdd's. You could always buy a bay converter to put some in the 5.25" bays if really needed.

Not sure what your issue with the 5.25" bay design is though?


----------



## nycgtr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nycgtr*
> 
> I am a watercooler, and I am debating on picking up the enthoo primo. This case has been around for a while now, and I got a feeling that due to its current 5.25 inch bays it's a bit outdated. Anyone know if they plan on coming out with an update version? I am not up for cutting the case to remove the 5.25 bays. Also any trouble spots that people have had in their build?


----------



## nycgtr

Do you know what thickness front Rad will fit without removing the drive baus? I plan on a using a v3 240 there. Thanks


----------



## Boost240

Hi all!. Just posting to say that I'll officially be a member of this club once my Evol Tempered Glass edition case comes in! I'm building my first new PC in 10yrs and I've chosen that sexy case to hold the goods. It might be a few weeks before I get it because it's back ordered up here in the great white North. Ah well. Gives me time to properly pick out other parts. I've already got the CPU (6700k). Can't wait!


----------



## pez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Boost240*
> 
> Hi all!. Just posting to say that I'll officially be a member of this club once my Evol Tempered Glass edition case comes in! I'm building my first new PC in 10yrs and I've chosen that sexy case to hold the goods. It might be a few weeks before I get it because it's back ordered up here in the great white North. Ah well. Gives me time to properly pick out other parts. I've already got the CPU (6700k). Can't wait!


Congrats!

I can't wait to see the first TG builds pop up. I'm already very happy with my Acrylic edition of the Pro M. Honestly the easiest case I've worked in for cable management...that's not a full tower.


----------



## Faster_is_better

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nycgtr*
> 
> Do you know what thickness front Rad will fit without removing the drive baus? I plan on a using a v3 240 there. Thanks


Check measurements here

Primo is a massive case, even with the 5.25 bays it has a lot of room for radiators. It will easily accept 2x 480s, and some people cram in additional 240+ radiator on top of that without much modification.

I think the biggest limitation to pay attention to is the bottom radiator space, the width is a little bit constrictive. Something like 126mm max radiator width down below will fit behind that 5.25 side panel.


----------



## nycgtr

Just odered the white enthoo primo. Should come tmr. Wish me luck.


----------



## Dorito Bandit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pez*
> 
> Alright, got it into an album and ready to be viewed
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Very satisfied with how this case turned out!
> 
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/X8Mbm


I went and looked at your imgur gallery. Very nice build.









How Is the cable management in the Enthoo Pro M?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Boost240*
> 
> Hi all!. Just posting to say that I'll officially be a member of this club once my Evol Tempered Glass edition case comes in! I'm building my first new PC in 10yrs and I've chosen that sexy case to hold the goods. It might be a few weeks before I get it because it's back ordered up here in the great white North. Ah well. Gives me time to properly pick out other parts. I've already got the CPU (6700k). Can't wait!


Welcome to the club, pal! Do post up some build pics once it's completed.

Best of luck and have fun building your new pc!








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nycgtr*
> 
> Just odered the white enthoo primo. Should come tmr. Wish me luck.


Good luck! Try not to stay awake all night thinking about it!


----------



## doyll

Welcome to all the new members!








More great builds in our group.


----------



## pez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dorito Bandit*
> 
> I went and looked at your imgur gallery. Very nice build.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> How Is the cable management in the Enthoo Pro M?
> Welcome to the club, pal! Do post up some build pics once it's completed.
> 
> Best of luck and have fun building your new pc!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Good luck! Try not to stay awake all night thinking about it!


Thank you, sir!

And it was great, honestly. I hadn't used a single cable tie other than backpacking on 3 of the included hook'n'loop fasteners. I could actually go back and work on it a bit more (and I will), but I was up for quite a while and wanted to ensure the system worked before I put an additional hour or two of cable management to it. But I think it's great from the view you can see it from







.

I noticed a lot of people with cards like the GTX 970 were still routing them through that bottom grommet or the one by the SATA ports of the motherboard, and thought, 'there's cutouts for the headers by the motherboard in the perfect position for these cables'. So I used those and I most likely was able to get away with it so well because of the flat PSU cables...part of the reason I'm thinking about not even sleeving them at this point.

TL;DR with a modular PSU and some attention to detail, it's a glorious case to work with. And that Acrylic Window is so rewarding. It's like having a car that makes you turn around and smile every time you're done using it. That's how I feel with the Pro M.


----------



## orbitalwalsh

some awesome builds in here







First time using Phanteks case.

quick teaser







Will post up the finished shots when the 970s are Hybrid cooled along side the white S340 version, which this build was meant to be based in/on


----------



## nycgtr

Quick question guys. This is definitely one of the bigger cases in my history(enthoo primo). I plan on loading this thing with a xspc v3 360, 240 and a UT 60 280, 1 ek supremacy evo, and 2x ek fc titan blocks. I currently have a ek d5 xres 140. I am going to do petg hardline (first timer hardline) for this build and I am a bit concerned about flow rate. Should I be looking to add another pump into the mix?


----------



## dkevox

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nycgtr*
> 
> Quick question guys. This is definitely one of the bigger cases in my history(enthoo primo). I plan on loading this thing with a xspc v3 360, 240 and a UT 60 280, 1 ek supremacy evo, and 2x ek fc titan blocks. I currently have a ek d5 xres 140. I am going to do petg hardline (first timer hardline) for this build and I am a bit concerned about flow rate. Should I be looking to add another pump into the mix?


One pump should be fine. Just route your gpu blocks in parallel as I believe those have much higher resistance than that evo block.

You could add a second pump in series for redundancy/safety sake (in case one pump fails), but it would be tough to know if one pump did fail.


----------



## nycgtr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dkevox*
> 
> One pump should be fine. Just route your gpu blocks in parallel as I believe those have much higher resistance than that evo block.
> 
> You could add a second pump in series for redundancy/safety sake (in case one pump fails), but it would be tough to know if one pump did fail.


I do have the ek sli parallel block that I plan on using forgot to add that.


----------



## Dorito Bandit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pez*
> 
> Thank you, sir!
> 
> And it was great, honestly. I hadn't used a single cable tie other than backpacking on 3 of the included hook'n'loop fasteners. I could actually go back and work on it a bit more (and I will), but I was up for quite a while and wanted to ensure the system worked before I put an additional hour or two of cable management to it. But I think it's great from the view you can see it from
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> I noticed a lot of people with cards like the GTX 970 were still routing them through that bottom grommet or the one by the SATA ports of the motherboard, and thought, 'there's cutouts for the headers by the motherboard in the perfect position for these cables'. So I used those and I most likely was able to get away with it so well because of the flat PSU cables...part of the reason I'm thinking about not even sleeving them at this point.
> 
> TL;DR with a modular PSU and some attention to detail, it's a glorious case to work with. And that Acrylic Window is so rewarding. It's like having a car that makes you turn around and smile every time you're done using it. That's how I feel with the Pro M.


Awesome to hear! I have the bigger Enthoo Pro version and love it. They are mighty fine cases.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *orbitalwalsh*
> 
> some awesome builds in here
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First time using Phanteks case.
> 
> quick teaser
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Will post up the finished shots when the 970s are Hybrid cooled along side the white S340 version, which this build was meant to be based in/on
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Looking very nice so far, dude!


----------



## Tapp

Has anyone with the Evolv ATX with a top mounted AIO cooler figures a way to mount LEDs up there? I bought the Hue+ and have the strips mounted on the sides and the bottom chassis. Would like to complete the top.


----------



## JbstormburstADV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Faster_is_better*
> 
> Check measurements here
> 
> Primo is a massive case, even with the 5.25 bays it has a lot of room for radiators. It will easily accept 2x 480s, and some people cram in additional 240+ radiator on top of that without much modification.
> 
> I think the biggest limitation to pay attention to is the bottom radiator space, the width is a little bit constrictive. Something like 126mm max radiator width down below will fit behind that 5.25 side panel.


Yes, I can definitely confirm that you need to make sure you get the right radiator if you're mounting one on the bottom. It's too narrow for both HWLabs and EK rads, so considering what I've read on XtremeRigs regarding measurements, your best bet for a bottom rad is a Phobya G-Charger V2.


----------



## Mr0czny

after few day of testing im thinking about cutting holes in front panel

1 hour The Division temps

- Stock case

CPU 57/59/54/55
GPU 72

- With top panel removed

CPU 56/57/50/52
GPU 72

- With front panel removed

CPU 50/51/45/46
GPU 69


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr0czny*
> 
> after few day of testing im thinking about cutting holes in front panel
> 
> 1 hour The Division temps
> 
> - Stock case
> 
> CPU 57/59/54/55
> GPU 72
> 
> - With top panel removed
> 
> CPU 56/57/50/52
> GPU 72
> 
> - With front panel removed
> 
> CPU 50/51/45/46
> GPU 69


Have you tried the very simple mod to move the front panel forward? Essentially the same result without killing the looks of the front panel.


----------



## doyll

Was just going to ask same thing.

I'm assuming you have stock 2x PH-F140SP front intakes. What speed are they running? Keep in mind fans lose lots of flow at low speed when they are working against restricted airflow. Speeding them up 2-400rpm may make a big difference.


----------



## nycgtr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JbstormburstADV*
> 
> Yes, I can definitely confirm that you need to make sure you get the right radiator if you're mounting one on the bottom. It's too narrow for both HWLabs and EK rads, so considering what I've read on XtremeRigs regarding measurements, your best bet for a bottom rad is a Phobya G-Charger V2.


I was able to put my UT60 in the bottom barely. It fit and its got 0 space to the window.


----------



## Mr0czny

@doyll

Intakes are 2 x Noctua NF-A14 Industrial 2000 PWM

Runs ~1400 rpm when CPU temp are ~ 55c


----------



## doyll

@Mr0czny
Sounds like a good setup.








I don't suppose you compared 2 stock PH-F140SP intakes running at same speeds to your IPPCs up to their rpm limit? Just curious how they compare.

My experience is the PH-F140SP are in right in there with other top fans running at same speeds.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Sounds like a good setup.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't suppose you compared 2 stock PH-F140SP intakes running at same speeds to your IPPCs up to their rpm limit? Just curious how they compare.
> 
> My experience is the PH-F140SP are in right in there with other top fans running at same speeds.


Compare in what way? I compared them on rads, but never as intake. The Noctuas went back in the box, regardless of how hard I tried to like them.


----------



## michael-ocn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr0czny*
> 
> after few day of testing im thinking about cutting holes in front panel
> 
> 1 hour The Division temps
> 
> - Stock case
> 
> CPU 57/59/54/55
> GPU 72
> 
> - With top panel removed
> 
> CPU 56/57/50/52
> GPU 72
> 
> - With front panel removed
> 
> CPU 50/51/45/46
> GPU 69


I'm curious, is the 240 is in the roof, exhaust or intake? Have you sealed the gaps in the mounting bracket?

I've been running mine with the front panel removed recently but i've also used this simple but effective technique to get more air to flow thru the front...



I could be fun to take the front panel to a machine shop.


----------



## Faster_is_better

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nycgtr*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *JbstormburstADV*
> 
> Yes, I can definitely confirm that you need to make sure you get the right radiator if you're mounting one on the bottom. It's too narrow for both HWLabs and EK rads, so considering what I've read on XtremeRigs regarding measurements, your best bet for a bottom rad is a Phobya G-Charger V2.
> 
> 
> 
> I was able to put my UT60 in the bottom barely. It fit and its got 0 space to the window.
Click to expand...

Yep Alphacool NexXxos series fit in the bottom just fine as mentioned, and are a popular choice since they have so many ports.

If they ever do a revision of the Primo, it would be cool if they added just a few more mm to that space to allow for almost all rads to fit. It's already a massive case, why not just a bit bigger?


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Compare in what way? I compared them on rads, but never as intake. The Noctuas went back in the box, regardless of how hard I tried to like them.


Fair enough, but why did you have to 'try and like them'? You make them sound like fans not even their mother could love.









I'm about to try some of the first TY-147A Sq as replacements for the PH-F140SP. Nothing wrong with the SPs', just curious how the TY-147A Sq will compare. I'm hoping to get some PH-F140MPs' to do similar comparison with .. it's the reason I haven't done the TY-147A Sq yet. Am also planning to try them on radiator.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Fair enough, but why did you have to 'try and like them'? You make them sound like fans not even their mother could love.


It was really a case of the specs and the fact that they were Noctuas that had me "trying to like them". While they were able to provide more airflow than the SP, simply due to higher rpm, they were a bit louder than the SP at like rpm with no gain. Also, they are tonally not as pleasant as the SP. With four of them in push/pull at the top of the case the difference in tone was dramatic. I literally disconnected the pull side until I got a chance to change them because I found the sound so distracting.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> It was really a case of the specs and the fact that they were Noctuas that had me "trying to like them". While they were able to provide more airflow than the SP, simply due to higher rpm, they were a bit louder than the SP at like rpm with no gain. Also, they are tonally not as pleasant as the SP. With four of them in push/pull at the top of the case the difference in tone was dramatic. I literally disconnected the pull side until I got a chance to change them because I found the sound so distracting.


Basically what I expected.
The 'more rpm = more airflow' is old trick most of us are wise to. Airflow at same rpm is key.







The SP have a pleasant sound. As you know I've always liked the TY-140x series fans for their performance and sound signature, and of course their prices being half of what other similar fans were was a big part of it. Now with their price being similar to others in same class I'm curious to how the all fall out of the bag after a good shake-up. My guess is all will have similar performance and sound levels with tonal quality being the deciding factor, but only time will tell. I have enough of the TY-147A Sq to even stock the Enthoo Primo so it should be interesting. .


----------



## zenn84

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *michael-ocn*
> 
> I could be fun to take the front panel to a machine shop.


I'd like to see this, as well with a vented top.


----------



## pez

I assume by SP, you're speaking of the stock fans in the cases (at least in the Enthoo Pro M they are)? I really like the performance of them, and at full tilt, they don't annoy me in the slightest. And I came from a 'silent' 550D
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *michael-ocn*
> 
> I'm curious, is the 240 is in the roof, exhaust or intake? Have you sealed the gaps in the mounting bracket?
> 
> I've been running mine with the front panel removed recently but i've also used this simple but effective technique to get more air to flow thru the front...
> 
> 
> 
> I could be fun to take the front panel to a machine shop.


Are the magnets for the front the same all the way around? I bet you could get a machine shop to make those oval-ish (just kinda looking at pictures of them) 'spacers' that retain the magnet feature and it would look flush or stick out a mm or two. I'm not sure how that might look, but I don't know if you can make this case look bad







.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pez*
> 
> I assume by SP, you're speaking of the stock fans in the cases (at least in the Enthoo Pro M they are)? I really like the performance of them, and at full tilt, they don't annoy me in the slightest. And I came from a 'silent' 550D
> Are the magnets for the front the same all the way around? I bet you could get a machine shop to make those oval-ish (just kinda looking at pictures of them) 'spacers' that retain the magnet feature and it would look flush or stick out a mm or two. I'm not sure how that might look, but I don't know if you can make this case look bad
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


Yes, the "SP" is the F140SP included with the Phanteks cases.

There is a really easy mod to space the front of the Evolv ATX out as much as you would like, no machine shop needed - just a couple of washers and screws. You can see it here - http://www.overclock.net/t/1418637/official-case-phanteks-case-club-for-lovers-owners/12270#post_24866111


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Yes, the "SP" is the F140SP included with the Phanteks cases.
> 
> There is a really easy mod to space the front of the Luxe Evolv ATX out as much as you would like, no machine shop needed - just a couple of washers and screws. You can see it here - http://www.overclock.net/t/1418637/official-case-phanteks-case-club-for-lovers-owners/12270#post_24866111


There fixed it for you.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> There fixed it for you.


Thanks.


----------



## pez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Yes, the "SP" is the F140SP included with the Phanteks cases.
> 
> There is a really easy mod to space the front of the Luxe out as much as you would like, no machine shop needed - just a couple of washers and screws. You can see it here - http://www.overclock.net/t/1418637/official-case-phanteks-case-club-for-lovers-owners/12270#post_24866111


Yeah, I really like the fans. I'm thinking about picking up 120s for my second build now. And yep, that's exactly how I envisioned it, and even though it's a bit of a potato pic, you can tell it adds function without ruining form. Almost wish I knew of that before getting the Pro M, but I don't regret this case one bit.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

I have the phobya g-changer in the bottom (480) and the ek 420 in the top...the ek read wasnt easy to fit though


----------



## megafettarsch

Hey guys,

got my Enthoo primo today. i took a look at the led hub (which is located in the front/top).

i am fine with the 6 FAN LED pins, but i amunsure about the other pins.

Pin 7: is sata 12 v input. no problem with that
Pin 8: Power LED. i dont know what to connect here
Pin 9: is told to be LED STRIP (optional output)



the case came preinstalled with this setting:


(edit: the image somehow got turned around. so left and right are swapped. the screw on the image is at the top side of the case)
The cable most left is the 12V input and it is labeled as such.
The cable next right to it is labeled as "LED STRIP" which makes me curious, since the "LED STRIP" should be the most right pin. It has a mollex hull with just 2 female holes/pins.
The most right cables(2 of them) are preinstalled and going into the removeable front and top panel ( i guess for the preinstalled led strips at the case).

So, did they just labeled the cable in the middle wrong? Or did they put it into the wrong pins? What is its usecase for?

Thanks in advance


----------



## Maheshk

Best case i ever had, so far i am happy


----------



## michael-ocn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Maheshk*
> 
> Best case i ever had, so far i am happy
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Agreed, so awesome looking, the old mac pro towers were cool, but this evolv case tops that and then some.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *megafettarsch*
> 
> Pin 7: is sata 12 v input. no problem with that
> Pin 8: Power LED. i dont know what to connect here
> Pin 9: is told to be LED STRIP (optional output)


The power LED on pin 8 supplies power to the strips that run on the top and right side. They should already be connected.
Pin 9 supplies power for an additional LED strip if you add one and need another point of power.


----------



## nycgtr

This has a been a nightmare this weeknd. Got it all done leak tested for 10 hrs no problems. Magical leak shows up 2 hrs water right below the cpu. Rebent the pipe now leak testing again.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nycgtr*
> 
> This has a been a nightmare this weeknd. Got it all done leak tested for 10 hrs no problems. Magical leak shows up 2 hrs water right below the cpu. Rebent the pipe now leak testing again.


An people wonder why I use soft tubing......









Looking good. Sorry about the issues, I can totally sympathize. Hopefully all is sorted out and you will have no other issues pop up.


----------



## Faster_is_better

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *megafettarsch*
> 
> Pin 7: is sata 12 v input. no problem with that
> Pin 8: Power LED. i dont know what to connect here
> Pin 9: is told to be LED STRIP (optional output)
> 
> 
> 
> The power LED on pin 8 supplies power to the strips that run on the top and right side. They should already be connected.
> Pin 9 supplies power for an additional LED strip if you add one and need another point of power.
Click to expand...

Also Pin 9 power is connected to the button on the top of the case that turns the existing LED on/off, so it is a switched power source.


----------



## DONGOTTI

Where can you get the reservoir bracket for the primo? Mine is straight, no extra length cutout for GPU's.

Also, has anyone put a res behind the HDD cages? I'm trying to figure out how and where to put a couple reservoirs.


----------



## nycgtr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DONGOTTI*
> 
> Where can you get the reservoir bracket for the primo? Mine is straight, no extra length cutout for GPU's.
> 
> Also, has anyone put a res behind the HDD cages? I'm trying to figure out how and where to put a couple reservoirs.


The bracket comes with the case. U gotta remove the plastic shield that's screws onto the bracket.


----------



## DONGOTTI

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nycgtr*
> 
> The bracket comes with the case. U gotta remove the plastic shield that's screws onto the bracket.


Ah ok, thanks.

Edit: What size res are most of you guys running? You think it's possible to have 2 pumps and 2 reservoirs fit?

Was planning on 2 d5 usb for aquaero.


----------



## LinusBE

Can you fit fans in between the radiator bracket and the top of the Evolv ATX? I have seen both yes and no as an answer. I am planning to change my Corsair 450D to an Evolv ATX Glass in the near future and I'm wondering how my custom loop will look in the Evolv.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LinusBE*
> 
> Can you fit fans in between the radiator bracket and the top of the Evolv ATX? I have seen both yes and no as an answer. I am planning to change my Corsair 450D to an Evolv ATX Glass in the near future and I'm wondering how my custom loop will look in the Evolv.


Not without modifications.
There is about 20mm between radiator slide out mount and frame.
Frame flanges are 6mm.
From top of frame to inside of top cover is 17mm.
So if frame is cut out, yes a fan could theoretically fit, but installation would be problematic because slide-in piece would not slide in with fan mounted, or slide out if fan was mounted after it was slid in.

But even more importantly the fans would have only 18mm between them and top with only a few small slots on sides and end slotted plastic mounting frame for venting. Not enough space for air to effectively flow and change direction or enough vent area for it to exhaust.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LinusBE*
> 
> Can you fit fans in between the radiator bracket and the top of the Evolv ATX? I have seen both yes and no as an answer. I am planning to change my Corsair 450D to an Evolv ATX Glass in the near future and I'm wondering how my custom loop will look in the Evolv.


They will physically fit if you hack the frame of the case......and will render your top radiator absolutely useless due to the airflow restrictions caused, as @doyll pointed out. There is very little restriction in the way of radiator height in the Evolv ATX, so there isn't a need to mount fans up there.


----------



## maskymus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DONGOTTI*
> 
> Ah ok, thanks.
> 
> Edit: What size res are most of you guys running? You think it's possible to have 2 pumps and 2 reservoirs fit?
> 
> Was planning on 2 d5 usb for aquaero.


I'm using Bitspower 150ml res (with D5 top kit) - it's the max I can use with 60mm top p/p and 80mm p/p rads on the included bracket. I measured approx. 35cm from bottom rad pull fan to top rad push fan, so you can go even for larger res without D5 pump (just don't forget to count any end caps and fitting/routing).
2pumps+2res will fit: 1 on the bracket, 1 on the back side of case (just under the back 140mm fan mount) - you'll be limited to standard PCB width GPU(ref Nvidia card etc.). The second option is to completely mod the case)

EDIT: use 60mm diameter res (EK, Bitspower, XSPC etc) - anything larger can cause problems)


----------



## jopy

anyone have any idea how much difference does the noise dampening feature makes between P400S vs P400?
My local store doesnt have the 400S white + window at the moment,
if it doesnt really makes a huge difference in decibel level,
might just go with the P400 white + window.

many thanks in advance.~


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jopy*
> 
> anyone have any idea how much difference does the noise dampening feature makes between P400S vs P400?
> My local store doesnt have the 400S white + window at the moment,
> if it doesnt really makes a huge difference in decibel level,
> might just go with the P400 white + window.
> 
> many thanks in advance.~


I doubt it makes a 'huge' difference. Case vents let out noise regardless of how much dampening is used in panels. In my experience noise levels have more to do with components used than case sound dampening. I'm trying to get more info about this.


----------



## jopy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> I doubt it makes a 'huge' difference. Case vents let out noise regardless of how much dampening is used in panels. In my experience noise levels have more to do with components used than case sound dampening. I'm trying to get more info about this.












thks,

it seem they run out of stock for p400 too lmao,
gotta wait for them to restock


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jopy*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> thks,
> 
> it seem they run out of stock for p400 too lmao,
> gotta wait for them to restock


I hate it when things like like this happen.








But you did the right thing checking and finding out before buying.








While it may not seem like it now while you set waiting, making decisions without knowing all the facts can (often does) cause much worse and longer lasting negative results.


----------



## nycgtr

Anyone with experience with Phanteks rma? The top panel for the primo I just got the case mesh does not sit flush. Seems one of the retention tabs don't work.


----------



## dlewbell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nycgtr*
> 
> Anyone with experience with Phanteks rma? The top panel for the primo I just got the case mesh does not sit flush. Seems one of the retention tabs don't work.


I bought an Enthoo Luxe on Newegg a month or 2 ago. It was missing one of the rubber feet under the power supply mount, & the power supply cover had some scuff marks on the end. I called them about it. They told me to email them ([email protected] (US), [email protected] (International)) with pictures of the issue & contact information. They sent me replacements for both with no other action required on my part. Replacing a retention tab may be a bit more complicated, but I'm sure they'll make it right.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nycgtr*
> 
> Anyone with experience with Phanteks rma? The top panel for the primo I just got the case mesh does not sit flush. Seems one of the retention tabs don't work.


Can you post a picture or three of the problem? Like latch without grill, grill in place etc.
These latches are push to release, but if they are in closed position when grill is off, they will not capture the latch pin. I just tried to upload an image showing how they work, but OCN image upload from computer feature is hit and miss lately .. has been for a month or so now.








They have a tread to post the problem and are trying to narrow it down and find it.
Overclock.net Forum
Bugs and Technical Issues
Submit a Bug Report
I cannot upload a picture or a screenshot!

I will post image as soon as system allows uploading an image from computer.


----------



## nycgtr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Can you post a picture or three of the problem? Like latch without grill, grill in place etc.
> These latches are push to release, but if they are in closed position when grill is off, they will not capture the latch pin. I just tried to upload an image showing how they work, but OCN image upload from computer feature is hit and miss lately .. has been for a month or so now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> They have a tread to post the problem and are trying to narrow it down and find it.
> Overclock.net Forum
> Bugs and Technical Issues
> Submit a Bug Report
> I cannot upload a picture or a screenshot!


I will post image as soon as system allows uploading an image from computer.

I cant right now as I am at work. But this sounds like exactly the problem I have. Everything looks okay but then it just doesn't close on the left side looking down from the top.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nycgtr*
> 
> I cant right now as I am at work. But this sounds like exactly the problem I have. Everything looks okay but then it just doesn't close on the left side looking down from the top.


Here is the image. If something is broken, Phanteks will take care of you.
They have great customer support.


----------



## Liranan

Enthoo Pro arrived today. It's one massive case, the biggest I've ever had but I can't believe how amazing it is. With the side panels on it's quieter and cooler than my previous GameMax with the panels off. It's not the sexiest case but it is a wonder to work with. I no longer have to bruise and cut my hands every time I want to take the board out, which was a serious struggle with the old case.

While this one has the windowed panel (seller sold me this one for the same price as the solid panel one) I intend to buy sound dampening material to make it even quieter than it already is.

My one and only regret is not getting this sooner and wasting money on that worthless small case next to this.

Edit: I've opted not to put the PSU cage on as I've placed a 12CM fan at the bottom of the case (spinning at 50% to reduce noise) to blow even more air into the case to feed the GPU and CPU with fresh air. Will replace it with a 14CM fan like the one in the top back when I've found a nice, quiet one.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Liranan*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Enthoo Pro arrived today. It's one massive case, the biggest I've ever had but I can't believe how amazing it is. With the side panels on it's quieter and cooler than my previous GameMax with the panels off. It's not the sexiest case but it is a wonder to work with. I no longer have to bruise and cut my hands every time I want to take the board out, which was a serious struggle with the old case.
> 
> While this one has the windowed panel (seller sold me this one for the same price as the solid panel one) I intend to buy sound dampening material to make it even quieter than it already is.
> 
> My one and only regret is not getting this sooner and wasting money on that worthless small case next to this.
> 
> Edit: I've opted not to put the PSU cage on as I've placed a 12CM fan at the bottom of the case (spinning at 50% to reduce noise) to blow even more air into the case to feed the GPU and CPU with fresh air. Will replace it with a 14CM fan like the one in the top back when I've found a nice, quiet one.


Massive? That's not massive. Here is Pro compared to Primo. Primo is rather massive.








115 mm taller and 50 mm deeper .. but only 15 mm wider.


----------



## doyll

@jopy
I search and asked everyone I know and only thing I've found is this from KitGuru review of P400
Quote:


> *Testing*
> To put this case through its cooling paces we will be using a test system consisting of an Intel Core i7-6700K, Sapphire Nitro R9 Fury and an SSD. This system allows us to produce a substantial amount of heat and effectively test the Phanteks Eclipse P400's cooling capabilities.
> For stress testing we use AIDA64 to create the maximum heat output to stress our CPU and GPU.
> _*Test System:*_
> Processor: 4.2GHz Intel Core i7-6700K
> Motherboard: Asus Maximus VIII Formula
> CPU cooler: Phanteks PH-TC12DX
> Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX DDR4-3200MHz RAM
> Graphics card: Sapphire Nitro R9 Fury 4GB
> Power supply: Seasonic Snow Silent 1050W
> Storage drives: SanDisk Extreme SSD
> OS: Windows 10 64-bit.
> _*Acoustic Performance Test Procedures:*_
> We placed our Digital Sound Level Meter one metre away from the case.
> The case fans are set to Normal mode in the BIOS.
> The Phanteks Eclipse P400's default fan configuration is: 1x 120mm front intake, 1x 120mm rear exhaust fans.
> Acoustics Performance
> The Phanteks Eclipse P400 is impressively quiet. There is a complete absence of sound deadening material so you can clearly hear the fans spinning however the design baffles the air flow and that prevents the case from becoming noisy or annoying. On the other hand if you choose to pack the case with fans and then crank them to the max you only have yourself to blame.


http://www.kitguru.net/components/cases/leo-waldock/phanteks-eclipse-p400-chassis-review/


----------



## DONGOTTI

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *maskymus*
> 
> I'm using Bitspower 150ml res (with D5 top kit) - it's the max I can use with 60mm top p/p and 80mm p/p rads on the included bracket. I measured approx. 35cm from bottom rad pull fan to top rad push fan, so you can go even for larger res without D5 pump (just don't forget to count any end caps and fitting/routing).
> 2pumps+2res will fit: 1 on the bracket, 1 on the back side of case (just under the back 140mm fan mount) - you'll be limited to standard PCB width GPU(ref Nvidia card etc.). The second option is to completely mod the case)
> 
> EDIT: use 60mm diameter res (EK, Bitspower, XSPC etc) - anything larger can cause problems)


Ok thanks. Maybe I'll do a bay res so I can have 2 d5's and 2 loops instead.


----------



## Faster_is_better

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DONGOTTI*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *maskymus*
> 
> I'm using Bitspower 150ml res (with D5 top kit) - it's the max I can use with 60mm top p/p and 80mm p/p rads on the included bracket. I measured approx. 35cm from bottom rad pull fan to top rad push fan, so you can go even for larger res without D5 pump (just don't forget to count any end caps and fitting/routing).
> 2pumps+2res will fit: 1 on the bracket, 1 on the back side of case (just under the back 140mm fan mount) - you'll be limited to standard PCB width GPU(ref Nvidia card etc.). The second option is to completely mod the case)
> 
> EDIT: use 60mm diameter res (EK, Bitspower, XSPC etc) - anything larger can cause problems)
> 
> 
> 
> Ok thanks. Maybe I'll do a bay res so I can have 2 d5's and 2 loops instead.
Click to expand...

2 loops are almost never NEEDED (and add a lot more complication), but if you want to do them just for fun or "because" that's cool









Bay res would probably be a good idea since most people don't use those so it is some extra space available. You can actually fit a 2nd pump and res in the back too, below the 5.25" bays but may have to remove the hard drive cages. If you are willing to mod/drill some holes you can fit stuff all over in this case... haha.

I fit a 65mm diameter res in mine, had to offset it a little, it didn't fit the factory holes on the reservoir mount anyway.


----------



## DONGOTTI

Well then maybe I will do 2 reservoirs.

Hard drive cages are coming out anyways so that frees up space right there.

I have most of the components already, I'm just at the point where I need to figure out watercooling aspect.

Its my first time ever trying this so as you can imagine I'm having a hard time wrapping my head around this lol.

Been reading/researching on here for 4 months now lol


----------



## Dorito Bandit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nycgtr*
> 
> Anyone with experience with Phanteks rma? The top panel for the primo I just got the case mesh does not sit flush. Seems one of the retention tabs don't work.


Yes. Phanteks has the best customer support I have ever had to deal with. I had a small issue when I ordered my Enthoo Pro, and Phanteks made things right and did so in a timely fashion. For this very reason, I always recommend their cases to family and friends. I have got a few family and friends to buy themselves a Phanteks case and they love them. So don't worry, you're in good hands with Phanteks!








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Can you post a picture or three of the problem? Like latch without grill, grill in place etc.
> These latches are push to release, but if they are in closed position when grill is off, they will not capture the latch pin. I just tried to upload an image showing how they work, but OCN image upload from computer feature is hit and miss lately .. has been for a month or so now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> They have a tread to post the problem and are trying to narrow it down and find it.
> Overclock.net Forum
> Bugs and Technical Issues
> Submit a Bug Report
> I cannot upload a picture or a screenshot!


I will post image as soon as system allows uploading an image from computer.

Hey Doyll,

if you continue to have issues uploading images from your computer, try uploading them to imgur and embedding the images here.

Best of luck, bud!









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Liranan*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Enthoo Pro arrived today. It's one massive case, the biggest I've ever had but I can't believe how amazing it is. With the side panels on it's quieter and cooler than my previous GameMax with the panels off. It's not the sexiest case but it is a wonder to work with. I no longer have to bruise and cut my hands every time I want to take the board out, which was a serious struggle with the old case.
> 
> While this one has the windowed panel (seller sold me this one for the same price as the solid panel one) I intend to buy sound dampening material to make it even quieter than it already is.
> 
> My one and only regret is not getting this sooner and wasting money on that worthless small case next to this.
> 
> Edit: I've opted not to put the PSU cage on as I've placed a 12CM fan at the bottom of the case (spinning at 50% to reduce noise) to blow even more air into the case to feed the GPU and CPU with fresh air. Will replace it with a 14CM fan like the one in the top back when I've found a nice, quiet one.


That's one awesome case, dude! You're going to be very happy with your decision.

Have fun with your build!


----------



## Liranan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Liranan*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Enthoo Pro arrived today. It's one massive case, the biggest I've ever had but I can't believe how amazing it is. With the side panels on it's quieter and cooler than my previous GameMax with the panels off. It's not the sexiest case but it is a wonder to work with. I no longer have to bruise and cut my hands every time I want to take the board out, which was a serious struggle with the old case.
> 
> While this one has the windowed panel (seller sold me this one for the same price as the solid panel one) I intend to buy sound dampening material to make it even quieter than it already is.
> 
> My one and only regret is not getting this sooner and wasting money on that worthless small case next to this.
> 
> Edit: I've opted not to put the PSU cage on as I've placed a 12CM fan at the bottom of the case (spinning at 50% to reduce noise) to blow even more air into the case to feed the GPU and CPU with fresh air. Will replace it with a 14CM fan like the one in the top back when I've found a nice, quiet one.
> 
> 
> 
> Massive? That's not massive. Here is Pro compared to Primo. Primo is rather massive.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 115 mm taller and 50 mm deeper .. but only 15 mm wider.
Click to expand...

I looked at the Primo but it's quite a bit more expensive than the Pro at 3.5x the price (my case cost me 90 USD).

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dorito Bandit*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Liranan*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Enthoo Pro arrived today. It's one massive case, the biggest I've ever had but I can't believe how amazing it is. With the side panels on it's quieter and cooler than my previous GameMax with the panels off. It's not the sexiest case but it is a wonder to work with. I no longer have to bruise and cut my hands every time I want to take the board out, which was a serious struggle with the old case.
> 
> While this one has the windowed panel (seller sold me this one for the same price as the solid panel one) I intend to buy sound dampening material to make it even quieter than it already is.
> 
> My one and only regret is not getting this sooner and wasting money on that worthless small case next to this.
> 
> Edit: I've opted not to put the PSU cage on as I've placed a 12CM fan at the bottom of the case (spinning at 50% to reduce noise) to blow even more air into the case to feed the GPU and CPU with fresh air. Will replace it with a 14CM fan like the one in the top back when I've found a nice, quiet one.
> 
> 
> 
> That's one awesome case, dude! You're going to be very happy with your decision.
> 
> Have fun with your build!
Click to expand...

Thanks a lot. I sit here and stroke it sometimes, I'm that happy with it. What I need to do is see what I can do with the cables of the H220-X as they're not that long and make management a little hard, so the interior looks a little messy.


----------



## jopy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> @jopy
> I search and asked everyone I know and only thing I've found is this from KitGuru review of P400
> http://www.kitguru.net/components/cases/leo-waldock/phanteks-eclipse-p400-chassis-review/


Nice find! Thanks !
Shouldnt be a big problem for me i guess.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dorito Bandit*
> 
> if you continue to have issues uploading images from your computer, try uploading them to imgur and embedding the images here.
> 
> Best of luck, bud!


Thanks for the suggestion. I use Photobucket when all else fails, have for donkey years. But using web host is not as simple. My image library is quite large (so would be a pain to upload to host) and I usually make / modify images every day to upload. t's so much easier and quicker to have image library in my network. Draw/modify, upload done versus having to open web host site, upload to it, copy url to OCN.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Liranan*
> 
> I looked at the Primo but it's quite a bit more expensive than the Pro at 3.5x the price (my case cost me 90 USD).
> Thanks a lot. I sit here and stroke it sometimes, I'm that happy with it. What I need to do is see what I can do with the cables of the H220-X as they're not that long and make management a little hard, so the interior looks a little messy.


I know only too well how much bigger (and expensive) Primo is. I used mine on a caster base and had to set 20mm spacer blocks under my desk so it would fit.







I've moved system into Luxe and there is room to spare .. both inside and out..









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jopy*
> 
> Nice find! Thanks !
> Shouldnt be a big problem for me i guess.


No problem. It sure would be nice to know just how much difference the dampening actually does make. But would need both case to test it out, and there is no way I'm buying both to find out. I like the looks of Enthoo series better anyway. But at first I wasn't keen on Evolv, now I love it!


----------



## Liranan

It's amazing how much difference proper airflow can make. With my previously cramped case my CPU would easily hit 70C with ambient at 25. Now the CPU gets close to 70 with ambient at over 35, and only 60 with ambient at 25.

Now I can OC some more before I hit thermal limits. Absolutely wonderful.


----------



## doyll

A stock system with good airflow can often be improved to give even better cooling. Stock Enthoo Luxe delivers air to CPU cooler about 10c above room. With a little work this can be brought down to 3-5c .. meaning CPU temp is 5-7c lower.









First thing to do is monitor airflow temps inside of case. Primarily CPU and GPU cooler intake air temps. A low cost way is use aquarium / terrarium or indoor/outdoor digital thermometer setup like this:
http://www.overclock.net/t/1491876/ways-to-better-cooling-airflow-cooler-fan-data/0_20#post_22319171

5th post in that thread is basics to case airflow.


----------



## jopy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> No problem. It sure would be nice to know just how much difference the dampening actually does make. But would need both case to test it out, and there is no way I'm buying both to find out. I like the looks of Enthoo series better anyway. But at first I wasn't keen on Evolv, now I love it!


im quited tempted to get that too.

how do u feel about the evolv atx?
which version has better finishing? grey/silver/black?


----------



## PureBlackFire

oh dear...


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PureBlackFire*
> 
> oh dear...


Really hoping this doesn't make me regret my decision to keep my Evolv ATX.......


----------



## Shingyboy

In regards to the Phanteks Evolv ATX Glass, does anyone know if there is a magnetic dust filter designed for the top of this case or if a third party one that fits exists?


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shingyboy*
> 
> In regards to the Phanteks Evolv ATX Glass, does anyone know if there is a magnetic dust filter designed for the top of this case or if a third party one that fits exists?


Where would you use this filter?
The top of the case is aluminium with only small slot vents on each side and plastic pieces in the end.


----------



## Liranan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> A stock system with good airflow can often be improved to give even better cooling. Stock Enthoo Luxe delivers air to CPU cooler about 10c above room. With a little work this can be brought down to 3-5c .. meaning CPU temp is 5-7c lower.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First thing to do is monitor airflow temps inside of case. Primarily CPU and GPU cooler intake air temps. A low cost way is use aquarium / terrarium or indoor/outdoor digital thermometer setup like this:
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1491876/ways-to-better-cooling-airflow-cooler-fan-data/0_20#post_22319171
> 
> 5th post in that thread is basics to case airflow.


Excellent thread, thanks.

One easy way of feeding the cooler with fresh 'cool' air is by turning the back, top exhaust fan around and having it blow in instead of out. I haven't done that because I need to buy more stockings to act as filter (cheap and effective).


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Liranan*
> 
> Excellent thread, thanks.
> 
> One easy way of feeding the cooler with fresh 'cool' air is by turning the back, top exhaust fan around and having it blow in instead of out. I haven't done that because I need to buy more stockings to act as filter (cheap and effective).


Ummmmm.....no. You want air to flow through the case cleanly. That requires similar intake and exhaust to expel warmed air. What you are suggesting is merely randomly blowing air.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Liranan*
> 
> Excellent thread, thanks.
> 
> One easy way of feeding the cooler with fresh 'cool' air is by turning the back, top exhaust fan around and having it blow in instead of out. I haven't done that because I need to buy more stockings to act as filter (cheap and effective).


What ciarlatano said.








Airflow is like water flow. The smoother, straighter and cleaner the 'path / ditch/ etc is, the better the flow .. and we need as much leaving case as coming in. Generally front and bottom intakes with back exhaust. Bottom intake can flow smoothly to GPU. But using top exhaust can cause hot GPU air to be drawn up around CPU cooler. Generaly the more open the back of case is the better. This is because airflow around PCIe sockets (GPU has somewhere to exhaust the case so will flow front to back.

Trying to use the back top vent as intake not only disrupts the case airflow, but generally has heated exhaust air from PSU, GPU, etc. contaminiating / heating it up.

There are a few cases designed to flow back to front, but very few.


----------



## Shingyboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Where would you use this filter?
> The top of the case is aluminium with only small slot vents on each side and plastic pieces in the end.


Nice to see you again, I have made forum posts all over the place and one guy suggested that dust was getting through the little vents at the top, not possible no?


----------



## velocityx

its that project 916 huge full tower option, hardware canucks made a video about it in january when they filmed the prototype case


----------



## Coydog

As I try to settle the parts list for my loop, I keep coming back to radiator size. I currently have an Evolv ATX and know the 60mm+ rads would be too thick. I am curious if anyone has an example of like a 30mm or so rad and a 45mm or so rad? What I am hoping to see is how much the rad w/ fans (NON push/pull config) blocks up the CPU block.


----------



## Liranan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Liranan*
> 
> Excellent thread, thanks.
> 
> One easy way of feeding the cooler with fresh 'cool' air is by turning the back, top exhaust fan around and having it blow in instead of out. I haven't done that because I need to buy more stockings to act as filter (cheap and effective).
> 
> 
> 
> Ummmmm.....no. You want air to flow through the case cleanly. That requires similar intake and exhaust to expel warmed air. What you are suggesting is merely randomly blowing air.
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Liranan*
> 
> Excellent thread, thanks.
> 
> One easy way of feeding the cooler with fresh 'cool' air is by turning the back, top exhaust fan around and having it blow in instead of out. I haven't done that because I need to buy more stockings to act as filter (cheap and effective).
> 
> 
> 
> What ciarlatano said.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Airflow is like water flow. The smoother, straighter and cleaner the 'path / ditch/ etc is, the better the flow .. and we need as much leaving case as coming in. Generally front and bottom intakes with back exhaust. Bottom intake can flow smoothly to GPU. But using top exhaust can cause hot GPU air to be drawn up around CPU cooler. Generaly the more open the back of case is the better. This is because airflow around PCIe sockets (GPU has somewhere to exhaust the case so will flow front to back.
> 
> Trying to use the back top vent as intake not only disrupts the case airflow, but generally has heated exhaust air from PSU, GPU, etc. contaminiating / heating it up.
> 
> There are a few cases designed to flow back to front, but very few.
Click to expand...

It was mentioned in the H220-X thread that the best way to feed the cooler with cool air is by having it drawn in from the outside at the back, so that's what I did with my previous case. Due to its cramped size it was quite effective but I can see that it won't work that well with this case. That 20CM fan at the front already draws in a lot of air.


----------



## doyll

"Project 916" is also called "Primo Pro"
Project 916 video




Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Liranan*
> 
> It was mentioned in the H220-X thread that the best way to feed the cooler with cool air is by having it drawn in from the outside at the back, so that's what I did with my previous case. Due to its cramped size it was quite effective but I can see that it won't work that well with this case. That 20CM fan at the front already draws in a lot of air.


The 20cm fan is the only thing I know of that is not good. Replace it with 2x PH-F140SP fans and you will have more airflow at lower noise levels. It's the first thing most of us did.


----------



## LinusBE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Coydog*
> 
> As I try to settle the parts list for my loop, I keep coming back to radiator size. I currently have an Evolv ATX and know the 60mm+ rads would be too thick. I am curious if anyone has an example of like a 30mm or so rad and a 45mm or so rad? What I am hoping to see is how much the rad w/ fans (NON push/pull config) blocks up the CPU block.


This is with a 30 mm rad from an aio:


----------



## TheMadHatta

Just realized i hadnt uploaded any photos of my custom phanteks case ive been drooling over for the past god how many months has it been since pre orders started for the evolv atx case?.... anyways u can find a whole mess of pics as i constantly am uploading new photos and the build progresses on my facebook and on my flickr, but ill post a couple here real quick too... im in the middle of doing my first maintenance on the system since i converted to water cooling when the case first came out for my crazy custom case project, so ive opened the loops and put em all together and am about to load back in the ekoolant pastel white coolant i was using before....`

Heres the flickr:
https://www.flickr.com/gp/sparktite/r0XP5s

Facebook(and u dont even gotta have a login):
https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.10203659599667500.1073741826.1142078740&type=1&l=bd2a913a64



The photos above are just quick views of the system and loop prior to opening up the cpu to make all the components part of one loop but the mods the plasti dip and all are still gonna be the same.


----------



## Coydog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LinusBE*
> 
> This is with a 30 mm rad from an aio:


Thanks, was hoping for a more straight on shot to give a better idea of how far down it hangs. I may just got with the PE360, it's only 8mm (or .314in) thicker than HWL slim rad.


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Coydog*
> 
> As I try to settle the parts list for my loop, I keep coming back to radiator size. I currently have an Evolv ATX and know the 60mm+ rads would be too thick. I am curious if anyone has an example of like a 30mm or so rad and a 45mm or so rad? What I am hoping to see is how much the rad w/ fans (NON push/pull config) blocks up the CPU block.


Here is a pic with Evolv ATX with a 60mm rad.


----------



## Coydog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rfarmer*
> 
> Here is a pic with Evolv ATX with a 60mm rad.


Thanks so much. Is the 60mm just the rad or rad + fans?


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Coydog*
> 
> Thanks so much. Is the 60mm just the rad or rad + fans?


It's a Alphacool NexXxoS UT60, 60mm thick.


----------



## Coydog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rfarmer*
> 
> It's a Alphacool NexXxoS UT60, 60mm thick.


Ok, just wanted to make sure. Thanks so much.


----------



## greg1184

My second build with the enthoo primo is in progress. There is nothing like this tower in terms of versatility and room for expansion.


----------



## Nick the Slick

Absolutely love my Enthoo Pro. Plenty of room for me to still make it clean and I love how modular the case is so you can make it fit your needs. After finding this case I wondered how I ever thought the Phantom 410 looked good lol.


----------



## Bamfinite

Hello I have the phanteks enthoo primo and Im having troubles with finding the molex connector for the led strip. Also Im not sure what I am suppose to connect the 12v input to. If anyone could help me that would be much appreciated.


----------



## greg1184

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bamfinite*
> 
> Hello I have the phanteks enthoo primo and Im having troubles with finding the molex connector for the led strip. Also Im not sure what I am suppose to connect the 12v input to. If anyone could help me that would be much appreciated.


Connect the 12v input to the same "L shaped" power plug as you plug in your ssd and hard drives. Look closely at the 12V input you will see the L shaped connector.


----------



## Bamfinite

Thank you found it but also where am I suppose to connect the cable labeled "led strip".


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bamfinite*
> 
> Hello I have the phanteks enthoo primo and Im having troubles with finding the molex connector for the led strip. Also Im not sure what I am suppose to connect the 12v input to. If anyone could help me that would be much appreciated.


http://phanteks.com/assets/manuals/PH-ES813P_Western.pdf

Page 11



The LED Strip is an output for optional LED strips that use molex connectors. If you have not added LED strips with molex connectors, it is not used.


----------



## porro

Hey guys,

I'm might be getting the tempered glass version of the Evolv ATX for my new build (either that or a corsair 760t) .
For the first time I will also be doing a custom watercooling loop (just the CPU for now). It's certainly going to be a kit from EK, but I'm not sure which one will fit the Evolv ATX:


X360: 360mm rad, 60mm thick (+ 25mm fans)
P360: 360mm rad, 40mm thick (+ 25mm fans)
P280: 280mm rad, 45mm thick (+ 25mm fans)
Anyone with one of these kits installed?

Thanks in advance.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *porro*
> 
> Hey guys,
> 
> I'm might be getting the tempered glass version of the Evolv ATX for my new build (either that or a corsair 760t) .
> For the first time I will also be doing a custom watercooling loop (just the CPU for now). It's certainly going to be a kit from EK, but I'm not sure which one will fit the Evolv ATX:
> 
> 
> X360: 360mm rad, 60mm thick (+ 25mm fans)
> P360: 360mm rad, 40mm thick (+ 25mm fans)
> P280: 280mm rad, 45mm thick (+ 25mm fans)
> Anyone with one of these kits installed?
> 
> Thanks in advance.


If you can see the Evolv ATX and 760t in person before buying, do so. There is a dramatic difference in the quality of the two. Not a chance you would even consider the 760t.

The EK kits are nice. But, they come with the awful 10/13 tubing and fittings. Small additional expense to get some ZMT or LRT and fittings to match.

They will all fit, but the 60mm rad blocks the CPU block. Not a very good look.


----------



## Liranan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> "Project 916" is also called "Primo Pro"
> Project 916 video
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Liranan*
> 
> It was mentioned in the H220-X thread that the best way to feed the cooler with cool air is by having it drawn in from the outside at the back, so that's what I did with my previous case. Due to its cramped size it was quite effective but I can see that it won't work that well with this case. That 20CM fan at the front already draws in a lot of air.
> 
> 
> 
> The 20cm fan is the only thing I know of that is not good. Replace it with 2x PH-F140SP fans and you will have more airflow at lower noise levels. It's the first thing most of us did.
Click to expand...

That 20cm fan doesn't bother me at all, I can feel it pulling air into the case from the outside. The noisiest part of my case are the two fans that come with the H220-X, they make a really strange sound at very low rpm. Reason why I haven't replaced them is because I can't find decently priced fans that have the same air pressure.


----------



## museumman

I've had a Primo before and loved the overall gargantuan feel but now looking to go to itx format for a spell.

Can anyone here with an Enthoo Evolv itx case pass on a few measurements for me please?

Im after the following :

Internal measurement front of case fan mounts to rear of case I/O panel
Internal, front of case to motherboard/PSU chamber cutout.( Where the HDD/pump mount is in the front. Should have a section to slot a rad in/fans etc when cover is removed)

Hoping to not have to purchase more radiators









Thanks in advance you bunch of legendary bastards







Very much appreciated


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Liranan*
> 
> That 20cm fan doesn't bother me at all, I can feel it pulling air into the case from the outside. The noisiest part of my case are the two fans that come with the H220-X, they make a really strange sound at very low rpm. Reason why I haven't replaced them is because I can't find decently priced fans that have the same air pressure.


Sorry to be blunt, but 'feel it pulling air' is extremely relative. Facts are not feelings, and facts say 2x PH-F140SP fans move way more iar than 1x PH-F200SP fan does.

I do not have P/Q graphs of these fans, but; I'll try to explain the difference between them:
2x PH-F140SP flow 164.2cfm of free air compared to PH-F200SP flowing 110.1cfm.
Free airflow is with no obstructions creating resistance (grill, filter, etc). This means we do not get rated airflow in practical applications.

Now let's look at each fan's static pressure rating; Ph-F140SP is 1.33mm H2O and PH-F200SP is 1.03mm H2O
Static pressure rating is maximum pressure created by fan, which it when fan stops flowing any air. Static = stopped.
When PH-F200SP reaches 1.03mm because of airflow resisitance it flows air at all.
When PH-F140SP raaches 1.03mm it is still flowing air .. something like 25% of it's free air rate, so about 20cfm per fan mans 40cfm total .. while PH-F200SP is flowing none at all. On a graph this kind of difference at the resistance level of our cases means two PH-F140SP wil be flowing about 80cfm when PH-F200SP is flowing 20cfm.

Just because PH-F140SP are better performing fans does not mean you need ot change your PH-F200SP. But please to don think it is doing anywhere near as good a job as 2x PH-F140SP fans will. It is possible the noise your radiator fans are making is because case airlfow is not keeping up. Try removing sidecover and see if they sound the same. If their sound changes, the probable cause is case airflow.

Have you considered the PH-F120MP? It does very well


----------



## zenn84

Just a quick idea; will removing the mesh from the top panel of the Evolv result in better temps/airflow, or is this negligible?


----------



## porro

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> If you can see the Evolv ATX and 760t in person before buying, do so. There is a dramatic difference in the quality of the two. Not a chance you would even consider the 760t.
> 
> The EK kits are nice. But, they come with the awful 10/13 tubing and fittings. Small additional expense to get some ZMT or LRT and fittings to match.
> 
> They will all fit, but the 60mm rad blocks the CPU block. Not a very good look.


I'm aware that the Evolv ATX would be a much more solid case, but aesthetics wise I find the 760t better. I'll probably go for the tempered glass version of the Evolv ATX.

Maybe if I chose the P280 kit, I could move the 280mm rad more to the right side of the case so it doesn't interfere with the CPU block? Thickness would be 70mm (including the fans)..

I'm not so familiar with tubing yet, since it will be my first custom loop. Do you mean I should pick thicker tubing?


----------



## Liranan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Liranan*
> 
> That 20cm fan doesn't bother me at all, I can feel it pulling air into the case from the outside. The noisiest part of my case are the two fans that come with the H220-X, they make a really strange sound at very low rpm. Reason why I haven't replaced them is because I can't find decently priced fans that have the same air pressure.
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry to be blunt, but 'feel it pulling air' is extremely relative. Facts are not feelings, and facts say 2x PH-F140SP fans move way more iar than 1x PH-F200SP fan does.
> 
> I do not have P/Q graphs of these fans, but; I'll try to explain the difference between them:
> 2x PH-F140SP flow 164.2cfm of free air compared to PH-F200SP flowing 110.1cfm.
> Free airflow is with no obstructions creating resistance (grill, filter, etc). This means we do not get rated airflow in practical applications.
> 
> Now let's look at each fan's static pressure rating; Ph-F140SP is 1.33mm H2O and PH-F200SP is 1.03mm H2O
> Static pressure rating is maximum pressure created by fan, which it when fan stops flowing any air. Static = stopped.
> When PH-F200SP reaches 1.03mm because of airflow resisitance it flows air at all.
> When PH-F140SP raaches 1.03mm it is still flowing air .. something like 25% of it's free air rate, so about 20cfm per fan mans 40cfm total .. while PH-F200SP is flowing none at all. On a graph this kind of difference at the resistance level of our cases means two PH-F140SP wil be flowing about 80cfm when PH-F200SP is flowing 20cfm.
> 
> Just because PH-F140SP are better performing fans does not mean you need ot change your PH-F200SP. But please to don think it is doing anywhere near as good a job as 2x PH-F140SP fans will. It is possible the noise your radiator fans are making is because case airlfow is not keeping up. Try removing sidecover and see if they sound the same. If their sound changes, the probable cause is case airflow.
Click to expand...

Actually it's not the fans that make the weird noise, it's the pump. I just took the side panel off, disconnected the fans and it's the pump.

I see your point about the fans moving more air at lower noise levels, thanks for educating me again. I will look into replacing it with those two 14cm ones, though right now I need to look at getting a few more 3TB HD's as I'm running out of space on my server.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *porro*
> 
> I'm aware that the Evolv ATX would be a much more solid case, but aesthetics wise I find the 760t better. I'll probably go for the tempered glass version of the Evolv ATX.
> 
> Maybe if I chose the P280 kit, I could move the 280mm rad more to the right side of the case so it doesn't interfere with the CPU block? Thickness would be 70mm (including the fans)..
> 
> I'm not so familiar with tubing yet, since it will be my first custom loop. Do you mean I should pick thicker tubing?


I'm just saying...you should really see them in person if you can. Your mind would likely be changed on the aesthetic, as well.

The P280 will fit and not interfere or cover the CPU block, it is the E series with 60mm rads that is a concern. The 360 is a cleaner fit as it will run end to end, and also will seal off the radiator mount well to prevent recirculation. BTW - I an assuming you are top mounting the rad as exhaust.

As for the tubing, the P series uses very thin walled tubing - 3/8" x 1/2" (10/13mm). This makes it more difficult to work with as it will be much more prone to kinks and collapsing than 3/8" x 5/8" LRT or 10/16mm ZMT. This is all a about being able to make tighter bends, as well as the look - it will not affect performance since all of these are 10mm ID.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zenn84*
> 
> Just a quick idea; will removing the mesh from the top panel of the Evolv result in better temps/airflow, or is this negligible?


I have not tried this. I have removed the screws that hold the top on and removed it, then set it back on without pushing it into the clips. Top is screw mounted so user does not try picking up case and having top pop off, but after removing 2x front and 2x back screws that secure the top, it can be popped off and on like front. Just setting the top on the case without popping it down leave a 5mm gap around the top. This does help airflow and cooling.

I suggest you try this and see if it helps. If it does, than maybe try removing the mess grills and see.If you do, please monitor and record your room and component temps and report your findings so we can all learn from your fine work.


----------



## jbmayes2000

Anyone in the US know where the Tempered Glass version is on sale? The only place I found it was at NCIX. I couldn't find it on Amazon or Newegg.


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *museumman*
> 
> I've had a Primo before and loved the overall gargantuan feel but now looking to go to itx format for a spell.
> 
> Can anyone here with an Enthoo Evolv itx case pass on a few measurements for me please?
> 
> Im after the following :
> 
> Internal measurement front of case fan mounts to rear of case I/O panel
> Internal, front of case to motherboard/PSU chamber cutout.( Where the HDD/pump mount is in the front. Should have a section to slot a rad in/fans etc when cover is removed)
> 
> Hoping to not have to purchase more radiators
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks in advance you bunch of legendary bastards
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Very much appreciated


Front of case to IO shield is 330mm, the front cutout is 30mm I have a BlackIce Nemesis that is 29.6mm and it just fits. One thing to note is radiator width, mine is 133mm and was too wide so I had to notch the cover. I didn't measure before hand but I would guess anything under 125mm would fit without cutting.


----------



## prava

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zenn84*
> 
> Just a quick idea; will removing the mesh from the top panel of the Evolv result in better temps/airflow, or is this negligible?


Difference will be very very big, yes.


----------



## michael-ocn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nick the Slick*
> 
> Absolutely love my Enthoo Pro. Plenty of room for me to still make it clean and I love how modular the case is so you can make it fit your needs. After finding this case I wondered how I ever thought the Phantom 410 looked good lol.


Are you a Saints fan







I didn't like that generations of gold mobos, but your black and gold build looks great! I like the gold fittings with the clear liquid.


----------



## michael-ocn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zenn84*
> 
> Just a quick idea; will removing the mesh from the top panel of the Evolv result in better temps/airflow, or is this negligible?


That's gotta depend on how much the system is relying on air to flow thru the top for cooling. I don't think it would make much of a difference on my system, it's setup to rely on intake thru the front and exhaust out the back. How much or little flows thru the top is not so important.

Having said that, the mesh used in those slots does look pretty restrictive, I'd say there's more closed off area than open area. I bet on systems that do rely on airflow thru the top, pulling that mesh probably would make a noticeable difference.


----------



## nycgtr

Really liking the primo, but the reservoir bracket is killing the gpu card length. It's like .5 - 1inch too short with a reservoir mounted for non ref length.


----------



## zenn84

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> I have not tried this. I have removed the screws that hold the top on and removed it, then set it back on without pushing it into the clips. Top is screw mounted so user does not try picking up case and having top pop off, but after removing 2x front and 2x back screws that secure the top, it can be popped off and on like front. Just setting the top on the case without popping it down leave a 5mm gap around the top. This does help airflow and cooling.
> 
> I suggest you try this and see if it helps. If it does, than maybe try removing the mess grills and see.If you do, please monitor and record your room and component temps and report your findings so we can all learn from your fine work.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *prava*
> 
> Difference will be very very big, yes.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *michael-ocn*
> 
> That's gotta depend on how much the system is relying on air to flow thru the top for cooling. I don't think it would make much of a difference on my system, it's setup to rely on intake thru the front and exhaust out the back. How much or little flows thru the top is not so important.
> 
> Having said that, the mesh used in those slots does look pretty restrictive, I'd say there's more closed off area than open area. I bet on systems that do rely on airflow thru the top, pulling that mesh probably would make a noticeable difference.


Top and back are both outtake, front as intake same as Michael. I'll give it a shot this week, see what it does and report my findings. Thanks guys!









*still want official vented panels for this case...


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *prava*
> 
> Difference will be very very big, yes.


What is the bases of this statement?


----------



## Sem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *velocityx*
> 
> its that project 916 huge full tower option, hardware canucks made a video about it in january when they filmed the prototype case


im not a fan of huge cases like the Primo, 900D etc

hope they do a smaller version around the size of the Luxe, 750D as i think the design is really nice


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *prava*
> 
> Difference will be very very big, yes.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> What is the bases of this statement?


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nycgtr*
> 
> Really liking the primo, but the reservoir bracket is killing the gpu card length. It's like .5 - 1inch too short with a reservoir mounted for non ref length.


the newer revision has the cutout for the graphics card and the holes are slightly offset to compensate but a large tube res (diameter) may still have trouble


----------



## DONGOTTI

Got some stuff installed today. Getting excited it's getting closer and closer.


----------



## Boost240

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jbmayes2000*
> 
> Anyone in the US know where the Tempered Glass version is on sale? The only place I found it was at NCIX. I couldn't find it on Amazon or Newegg.


I preordered it here in Canada from NCIX. I'm growing impatient. My new build has stalled because of the lack of a case.


----------



## nycgtr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> the newer revision has the cutout for the graphics card and the holes are slightly offset to compensate but a large tube res (diameter) may still have trouble


I Just got mine 10 days ago. Yea the reservoir still gets in the way.


----------



## kingduqc

Hey guys, I'm about to order my first watercooling loop and I'd like some feedback.

Here's the parts and the plan :


http://imgur.com/hxaA1


I have a few concerns about how I would implement draining in the system and how can I make the loop look tight. I'm not so sure if a d5 can push the whole setup too. We are working with a phanteks enthoo primo for a case. Can you guys see any improvement I can do on part selection and placement?


----------



## nycgtr

That res point isn't that friendly. A d5 is way more than enough. I got 3 rads in a d5 and not even at full speed. Get a radiator that has a port on the side for the bottom. Add a bitspower mini valve for drain


----------



## kingduqc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nycgtr*
> 
> That res point isn't that friendly. A d5 is way more than enough. I got 3 rads in a d5 and not even at full speed. Get a radiator that has a port on the side for the bottom. Add a bitspower mini valve for drain


What do you mean it's not friendly?


----------



## owcraftsman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kingduqc*
> 
> Hey guys, I'm about to order my first watercooling loop and I'd like some feedback.
> 
> Here's the parts and the plan :
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/hxaA1
> 
> 
> I have a few concerns about how I would implement draining in the system and how can I make the loop look tight. I'm not so sure if a d5 can push the whole setup too. We are working with a phanteks enthoo primo for a case. Can you guys see any improvement I can do on part selection and placement?


The monsta has a bleed port on the end to the front of the case put your drain there like below. I have a very similar setup with res in the back and have already bought a bitspower dual d5 top and d5 to add to the system only difference is I use a monsta 360 on the bottom and have room in the back for both pumps. I, like you, prefer minimal tubing and that setup works well for that. One more recommendation get an Alphacool rad for the top with there 7 ports it make it easy to fill from the top and a good place to open when you want to drain.


----------



## kingduqc

Wow, this is the exact setup I had in mind a few days ago. 360 and pump at the botton. I wanted to see if I could get away with a 480 at the bottom, is that really needed? What kind of fans/temp you are getting?

How do you bleep it up / how do you fill it?


----------



## nycgtr

I say it's not friendly as most bigger reservoirs can't fit there, and if you have gpus that are taller it will get in the way. In terms of Rads a 480 on top and anything else 280 240 or whatever us sufficient. Running sli and cpu with my fans going super slow. I get load Temps in the 40s


----------



## Nick the Slick

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *michael-ocn*
> 
> Are you a Saints fan
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I didn't like that generations of gold mobos, but your black and gold build looks great! I like the gold fittings with the clear liquid.


Thanks, I really appreciate it! I kept trying to decide between going with black coolant or just keeping it clear but I like the clear as well.

But no, not a Saints fan







. I didn't really have a set plan or color scheme when starting this so the color scheme was decided by the motherboard. Which was decided by the fact that this was/is my first Intel build and I was coming from an AMD build w/ the ASUS 990FX Pro. It's a great board (still use it today in a spare build w/ my 6300 FX) so when I went to build this I figured I'd just get the Intel equivalent of that board, thus landing me with the Z87 Pro. I wasn't crazy about the color at first either, believe me. I really wanted blue, but I was just happy it wasn't red tbh, I'll take any color but red lol.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sem*
> 
> im not a fan of huge cases like the Primo, 900D etc
> 
> hope they do a smaller version around the size of the Luxe, 750D as i think the design is really nice


The Enthoo Mini XL looks like a small Primo, but it's mini ATX and ultra ATX. With the added upgrade kit it accepts dual systems; mATX and ITX.


----------



## Faster_is_better

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kingduqc*
> 
> Wow, this is the exact setup I had in mind a few days ago. 360 and pump at the botton. I wanted to see if I could get away with a 480 at the bottom, is that really needed? What kind of fans/temp you are getting?
> 
> How do you bleep it up / how do you fill it?


480 in the bottom with a res mounted in the back like that would be really tight. You can't really push a 480 rad forward enough to fit anything behind it (like a pump/res).

A lot of people are using top radiators with multi ports, where they can access a port from the top of the case to fill/bleed it easily.

This is how I did mine with a 480mm Alphacool UT60



This was just for mockup, rad is mounted inside actually.


----------



## AyyMD

I'm so ******* pumped for what case you guys and my friend suggested. He said get the Enthoo Pro M Acrylic, so I'm going to buy that sexy bastard soon.


----------



## nycgtr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kingduqc*
> 
> Wow, this is the exact setup I had in mind a few days ago. 360 and pump at the botton. I wanted to see if I could get away with a 480 at the bottom, is that really needed? What kind of fans/temp you are getting?
> 
> How do you bleep it up / how do you fill it?


As long as you get 480 on top and any other rad. Your good to go temp wise. Your not gaining much in temp difference if you slapped a 480 vs 240 in the bottom. I have 3 rads in mine but I know if I took one out the temp change would be maybe 2-3 deg.



I have a 280 ut 60 at the bottom, and my drain port is the side port of the 280 You cant see it in the photo but you can access it easily if I open the side panel.


----------



## sebna

Reporting that I am joining the club









I am after Evolv ATX TG. Cannot decide on the colour - silver or gun metal? Which would you choose?

BTW some amazing builds guys you have here!

Thanks


----------



## porro

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> I'm just saying...you should really see them in person if you can. Your mind would likely be changed on the aesthetic, as well.
> 
> The P280 will fit and not interfere or cover the CPU block, it is the E series with 60mm rads that is a concern. The 360 is a cleaner fit as it will run end to end, and also will seal off the radiator mount well to prevent recirculation. BTW - I an assuming you are top mounting the rad as exhaust.
> 
> As for the tubing, the P series uses very thin walled tubing - 3/8" x 1/2" (10/13mm). This makes it more difficult to work with as it will be much more prone to kinks and collapsing than 3/8" x 5/8" LRT or 10/16mm ZMT. This is all a about being able to make tighter bends, as well as the look - it will not affect performance since all of these are 10mm ID.


Will a 60mm rad (with 25mm fans) fit in the front?

I really want that EX-series radiator, it gets such good reviews..


----------



## Boost240

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sebna*
> 
> Reporting that I am joining the club
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I am after Evolv ATX TG. Cannot decide on the colour - silver or gun metal? Which would you choose?
> 
> BTW some amazing builds guys you have here!
> 
> Thanks


i have the black one on preorder. The damn thing is back ordered for awhile tho!


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *porro*
> 
> Will a 60mm rad (with 25mm fans) fit in the front?
> 
> I really want that EX-series radiator, it gets such good reviews..


Yes, it will fit with no problem.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sebna*
> 
> Reporting that I am joining the club
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I am after Evolv ATX TG. Cannot decide on the colour - silver or gun metal? Which would you choose?
> 
> BTW some amazing builds guys you have here!
> 
> Thanks


I prefer the gun metal color. Elegant, but not too bold .. and blends into the decore of my office. I prefer my cases to be part of the the surroundings (mellow brown/tan wood colors, pastel furniture, etc. But if you like the operating room / laboratory look, maybe silver is better for you.


----------



## sebna

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> I prefer the gun metal color. Elegant, but not too bold .. and blends into the decore of my office. I prefer my cases to be part of the the surroundings (mellow brown/tan wood colors, pastel furniture, etc. But if you like the operating room / laboratory look, maybe silver is better for you.


I have actually ordered Gun Metal few days ago but still not decided on the colour. Originally I wanted to go silver but in TG trim I think contrast between black sides is too much, but then silver would suite my room better







. Hard choices. I may end up getting silver as well and returning the one which I like less. Unless I am satisfied with gun metal straight away.

Anyway I have exchanged few emails with Phanteks support. I am not impressed to say the least. Hope I will never have to make any warranty claim with them as they seriously get on my nerves.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sebna*
> 
> I have actually ordered Gun Metal few days ago but still not decided on the colour. Originally I wanted to go silver but in TG trim I think contrast between black sides is too much, but then silver would suite my room better
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Hard choices. I may end up getting silver as well and returning the one which I like less. Unless I am satisfied with gun metal straight away.
> 
> Anyway I have exchanged few emails with Phanteks support. They are utter crap. Hope I will never have to make any warranty claim with them as they get on my nerves.


The 'gun metal' colour is more of a 'dark pewter gray' like these


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> The 'gun metal' colour is more of a 'dark pewter gray' like these


Yes, it is. Personally, I really like the gun metal, and find the silver too bright. But....all a matter of taste.


----------



## sebna

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Yes, it is. Personally, I really like the gun metal, and find the silver too bright. But....all a matter of taste.


Additional reason why I went with Gun Metal is that my previous case was antec P180 v1 which is silver so I though a bit of change is welcomed.

I should have it by Friday if I am lucky so I will know soon enough what I am doing next.

Cheers


----------



## velocityx

My Evolv TG is here. Such eye candy. There is a massive quality difference between this and my 750D that I sold. Now just need to get that custom cabling!



temporary cable setting


----------



## prava

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> What is the bases of this statement?


If you use it to either exhaust or intake with a radiator then it is as restrictive as you can make it. So yes, temps will vary a lot if you remove the grills.

As it is, the top is meant to only operate with a single fan if you want it to be more or less optimized. 2 fans there will completely starve. And 3, well... go figure.

If you don't put a radiator in there you don't really need your top fans at all.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *prava*
> 
> If you use it to either exhaust or intake with a radiator then it is as restrictive as you can make it. So yes, temps will vary a lot if you remove the grills.


Interesting....what type of temp variation did you see when you did this? And what are you using as far as cooling and top fans? Did you isolate the top fans prior to doing this?


----------



## owcraftsman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kingduqc*
> 
> Wow, this is the exact setup I had in mind a few days ago. 360 and pump at the botton. I wanted to see if I could get away with a 480 at the bottom, is that really needed? What kind of fans/temp you are getting?
> 
> How do you bleep it up / how do you fill it?


I think others have answered your question quit well already but I will elaborate on my build. I use a 420 up top Alphacool with 7 ports I use the two ports facing up to fill loop from the top of the case. I did not like the tight fit of the 480 and the 420 allows for movement front to back to accommodate other aspects of the build and if you do the math the 420 has more sq mm of surface are for cooling than a 480. A no brainier if you ask me. Mine is a 60mm thick rad which can be problematic with certain motherboards but two of my MSI boards I've used with this setup worked fine.

About Filling: Note one of the tubes coming out of the top rad drops fluid directly into the reservoir which in turn drops through the pump directly into the bottom Rad. From the other tube on that res it drops directly into the CPU block and on to the GPU block quite quickly and finally to the other side of the bottom rad. I can fill the system nearly 100% without even turning on the pump once, not many can say that. I have found it is made easier/faster filling if I use the long extension tube on the drain or end bleed port #7 of the bottom 360 to raise it above the top radiator and uncap it to give the air in the loop a place to escape. This allows the liquid to flow freely into all areas of the loop just don't forget to cap it before you turn on the pump or there will be a big mess. The same tube makes draining a breeze just pull it out and aim where you want no pun intended you just have to take the two top port caps off first before you uncap the drain and the whole system will drain without pump in seconds.

TIP: It is best practice to have a spare PSU that you can jump start to bleed the loop. In this way you can run the pump without adding power to your components. The point of doing so is to #1 not risk damage to components by adding power when there a risk of water shorting something out #2 to it leak test the loop and #3 get rid of any air pockets that may still exist after filling. I literally rock the whole case back and forth side to side and front to back in all direction while running the pump in this way to insure no pockets of air remain in the system that could possible hinder performance. As a result you will have to add more fluid to fill the void so you'll have to keep adding fluid until it's completely full. Typically I'll let it run over night and top it all off in the morning. This also gets rid of all the micro bubbles in the system much quicker.

Finally my bottom rad is a 360 again so I have room for adjusting back and forth and to have room for my pump/res combo in the rear. I will also have room to add the second D5 in that area when I get too it. This may not be the greatest looking or best performing but in terms of ease of use and maintenance it's hard to beat.

My favorite mod in this case is the dual fans blowing directly on the GPUs I saw substantial improvements in my GPUs VRM temps. I used a dual fan grill with a bit longer screws and some 10mm spacers to attach the bottom fan to the Hdd cage that accommodates a single 120 and attached the top 120 to the grill. Its a very simple mod that only requires a screw drive to perform.

GL with your build


----------



## JbstormburstADV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PureBlackFire*
> 
> oh dear...


Sorry for being LTTP, but this is interesting. It is about time that we had a "refresh" of the Primo, though I will admit this looks more like the size of the Luxe.


----------



## pez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AyyMD*
> 
> I'm so ******* pumped for what case you guys and my friend suggested. He said get the Enthoo Pro M Acrylic, so I'm going to buy that sexy bastard soon.


I think that you will love it. I had maybe one or two qualms about mine, but nothing that outweighed the end result. If you click my profile, you can see a glance at mine







.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *prava*
> 
> If you use it to either exhaust or intake with a radiator then it is as restrictive as you can make it. So yes, temps will vary a lot if you remove the grills.
> 
> As it is, the top is meant to only operate with a single fan if you want it to be more or less optimized. 2 fans there will completely starve. And 3, well... go figure.
> 
> If you don't put a radiator in there you don't really need your top fans at all.


Like ciarlatano politely insinuated in his post, do you have any actual data to back up your claims with?

I could say the light value in the top "will vary a lot if you remove the grills." Just as valid a statement as your with same lack of empirical data backing it up. But I don't make statement base of supposition as if they are actual fact.









I have tested and measured front and top vent areas and will hypothesize that based on that data the venting at each end of the top is easily as much as the slot vents on sides, while removing the slot vent grills will improve airflow a little, it will not make a huge difference.

Oh! What design engineer at Phanteks told you "the top is meant to only operate with a single fan?" Because I do communicate with their design engineer every few weeks. Our discussions have often included Evolv airflow, and there has been no mention of number of fans. But as a guess based on how many fans can be placed in the top, it would seem logical it was designed to use up to 3x fans.

I have experimented with both front and top venting, and spacing them out has improved airflow, but the temperature changes have ot be great .. nothing even remotely close to your wild original statement of
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *prava*
> 
> Difference will be very very big, yes.


in your first post.

The ends have 37x open slots 5.5mm x 12.9 mm .. this is approximately 26.3 sq cm of airflow area.

The 10x side vents are 5 mm x 61.6 mm .. this is approximately 30.5 sq cm with the mesh having approx. 0.85 mm holes with 1.6 mm spacing, so about 20% open or 6.1 sq cm of open vent

This calculates to the top's stock vents having an open area of about 32.4 sq cm with mesh and 56.8 sq cm without mesh.
By comparison a single 120mm fan has about 100 sq cm of open area.

The simplest way to improve top airflow is to remove the 4 top mounting screws (2x in back and 2x in front ), pop the top loose and rest it back on the clip mounts, this creates a 5.5 mm x 127.5 mm gap between top and case, which translated into an additional 63.7 sq cm of top venting very easily .. and does not damage the stock case in any way.

So while removing the mesh does give 24.5 sq cm more open area, it is not as your claim " Difference will be very very big".

To access the mesh you have to remove the top anyway, and just setting it back on increases the open area increases by 63.7 sq cm for a total of 96.1 sq. cm of open vent area.

This is an increase of 2.6 times as much airflow as removing the mesh gains, and is tripple the open flow area of stock venting.

I had to space the front out 15mm to approx. double the front airflow area .. and like the top, component temps did improve a few degrees, not dramatically.


----------



## CalinTM

I ordered the tempered glass of the evolv atx case, and in this review says has only these cables. http://www.tomshardware.com/gallery/Phanteks_Enthoo-Evolv-ATX-Tempered-Glass_15,0101-578625-0-2-3-1-jpg-.html

The usb 3.0 cable, hdd led, hd audio, and the power switch. Where is the reset switch ? How im gonna reset my PC?


----------



## velocityx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CalinTM*
> 
> I ordered the tempered glass of the evolv atx case, and in this review says has only these cables. http://www.tomshardware.com/gallery/Phanteks_Enthoo-Evolv-ATX-Tempered-Glass_15,0101-578625-0-2-3-1-jpg-.html
> 
> The usb 3.0 cable, hdd led, hd audio, and the power switch. Where is the reset switch ? How im gonna reset my PC?


yes, there is no reset switch. reset is for led control in this version. clicking it switches colors, clicking and holding changes modes. I guess if you reset a lot that could be a problem for you.


----------



## CalinTM

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *velocityx*
> 
> yes, there is no reset switch. reset is for led control in this version. clicking it switches colors, clicking and holding changes modes. I guess if you reset a lot that could be a problem for you.


Loooooool, what pricks....

Thank god i have a reset button on the motherboard....


----------



## velocityx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CalinTM*
> 
> Loooooool, what pricks....
> 
> Thank god i have a reset button on the motherboard....


yea i have one on the mobo as well, its only after i got the case i realised its not really a solution as the panels arent very easy to take off. I mean, you need to handle it with care so taking it off to reset is like a one minute operation to take off and another minute to put on:xd


----------



## doyll

None of my cases have a 'reset' button that I am aware of. They turn on, turn off and reboot with power button


----------



## velocityx

I'm totally in love with this. I guess there are two camps here, one where peeps love the back glass panel ( I actually excess over it more than the left one that shows the gear) and the peeps who hate the back glass. I already plan mods to the back panel, wanna do some matt plexi panels to cover the bare bones and only expose the right cables. Something like they did in murdermods.


----------



## zenn84

So I asked earlier in this topic, how much a difference removing the mesh from the top panel would make...
No definitive answer, other than "very big" so time to do some minor tests.

My system setup in the Evolv mATX is as follows;

CPU & GPU AIO cooled
- CPU H100i GTX in top
- GPU EVGA Hybrid Watercooler (in combo with modded stock referencecooler) in back
- SSD's mounted behind mobotray
- Gaps on topmounting positions not sealed off.

Fans Noctua NF-S12B Redux 1200 PWM
- 2x120 on Front (1000 rpm)
- 2x120 on PSU cover (900 rpm)
- 2x120 on Top (push setup, 1000 rpm)
- 1x120 on Back (push setup, 1000 rpm)

Measured with Piriform Speccy (V1.29.714), idle just doing nothing on desktop and load while ingame playing BO3.

Idle with mesh
CPU 36 ℃
MOBO 28 ℃
GPU 28 ℃
SSD 34 ℃

Idle without mesh
CPU 34 ℃
MOBO 28 ℃
GPU 26 ℃
SSD 30 ℃

Idle difference
CPU 2 ℃
MOBO 0 ℃
GPU 2 ℃
SSD 4 ℃

Load with mesh
CPU 44 ℃
MOBO 28 ℃
GPU 51 ℃
SSD 34 ℃

Load without mesh
CPU 41 ℃
MOBO 28 ℃
GPU 48 ℃
SSD 30 ℃

Load difference
CPU 3 ℃
MOBO 0 ℃
GPU 3 ℃
SSD 4 ℃

So an overall difference of about 2-4 ℃ when removing the top mesh from the panel, somehow the biggest difference was seen in my SSD's.
Now, dear people at Phanteks... Just develop us a vented top/front panel, and you can make this temp difference even better.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zenn84*
> 
> So I asked earlier in this topic, how much a difference removing the mesh from the top panel would make...
> No definitive answer, other than "very big" so time to do some minor tests.
> 
> My system setup in the Evolv mATX is as follows;
> 
> CPU & GPU AIO cooled
> - CPU H100i GTX in top
> - GPU EVGA Hybrid Watercooler (in combo with modded stock referencecooler) in back
> - SSD's mounted behind mobotray
> - Gaps on topmounting positions not sealed off.
> 
> Fans Noctua NF-S12B Redux 1200 PWM
> - 2x120 on Front (1000 rpm)
> - 2x120 on PSU cover (900 rpm)
> - 2x120 on Top (push setup, 1000 rpm)
> - 1x120 on Back (push setup, 1000 rpm)
> 
> Measured with Piriform Speccy (V1.29.714), idle just doing nothing on desktop and load while ingame playing BO3.
> 
> Idle with mesh
> CPU 36 ℃
> MOBO 28 ℃
> GPU 28 ℃
> SSD 34 ℃
> 
> Idle without mesh
> CPU 34 ℃
> MOBO 28 ℃
> GPU 26 ℃
> SSD 30 ℃
> 
> Idle difference
> CPU 2 ℃
> MOBO 0 ℃
> GPU 2 ℃
> SSD 4 ℃
> 
> Load with mesh
> CPU 44 ℃
> MOBO 28 ℃
> GPU 51 ℃
> SSD 34 ℃
> 
> Load without mesh
> CPU 41 ℃
> MOBO 28 ℃
> GPU 48 ℃
> SSD 30 ℃
> 
> Load difference
> CPU 3 ℃
> MOBO 0 ℃
> GPU 3 ℃
> SSD 4 ℃
> 
> So an overall difference of about 2-4 ℃ when removing the top mesh from the panel, somehow the biggest difference was seen in my SSD's.
> Now, dear people at Phanteks... Just develop us a vented top/front panel, and you can make this temp difference even better.


Here is the thing, all of these numbers are within margin of error that can be accounted for by a number of other factors. What makes me raise an eyebrow at these numbers is the fact that the GPU was affected to that extent, when it realistically should not have been affected at all - the same goes for the SSDs, which aren't even in the same chamber. What these results would actually point to is the room being a couple of degrees cooler when you ran the second test, not that there was any gain from removing the mesh.


----------



## pez

Agreed. I would think you'd have to have REALLY poor airflow for that mesh being removed to affect your GPU temps.


----------



## zenn84

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Here is the thing, all of these numbers are within margin of error that can be accounted for by a number of other factors. What makes me raise an eyebrow at these numbers is the fact that the GPU was affected to that extent, when it realistically should not have been affected at all - the same goes for the SSDs, which aren't even in the same chamber. What these results would actually point to is the room being a couple of degrees cooler when you ran the second test, not that there was any gain from removing the mesh.


The ambient room temperature is the same as yesterday 21 ℃, GPU might come from playing another map/less action on screen. Though the SSD's warmth I can't explain.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pez*
> 
> Agreed. I would think you'd have to have REALLY poor airflow for that mesh being removed to affect your GPU temps.


You probably should have bolded, italicized and made the font larger on "REALLY", it is worthy of that. Removing the mesh does very, very little under any circumstance. However, if the H100i wasn't isolated on the rad mount (no openings from top to bottom), it would actually do absolutely nothing.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zenn84*
> 
> The ambient room temperature is the same as yesterday 21 ℃, GPU might come from playing another map/less action on screen. Though the SSD's warmth I can't explain.


Wait......these results are not from a controlled synthetic test? They are a "while gaming" (someone kill me) with a ton of variables on *every* component????????? Done on different days in an uncontrolled environment? Gee......I can't imagine why there would be different temps


----------



## nycgtr

Kidding me right... I just got the primo and I was thinking maybe they might refresh it soon.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zenn84*
> 
> So I asked earlier in this topic, how much a difference removing the mesh from the top panel would make...
> No definitive answer, other than "very big" so time to do some minor tests.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> My system setup in the Evolv mATX is as follows;
> 
> CPU & GPU AIO cooled
> - CPU H100i GTX in top
> - GPU EVGA Hybrid Watercooler (in combo with modded stock referencecooler) in back
> - SSD's mounted behind mobotray
> - Gaps on topmounting positions not sealed off.
> 
> Fans Noctua NF-S12B Redux 1200 PWM
> - 2x120 on Front (1000 rpm)
> - 2x120 on PSU cover (900 rpm)
> - 2x120 on Top (push setup, 1000 rpm)
> - 1x120 on Back (push setup, 1000 rpm)
> 
> Measured with Piriform Speccy (V1.29.714), idle just doing nothing on desktop and load while ingame playing BO3.
> 
> Idle with mesh
> CPU 36 ℃
> MOBO 28 ℃
> GPU 28 ℃
> SSD 34 ℃
> 
> Idle without mesh
> CPU 34 ℃
> MOBO 28 ℃
> GPU 26 ℃
> SSD 30 ℃
> 
> Idle difference
> CPU 2 ℃
> MOBO 0 ℃
> GPU 2 ℃
> SSD 4 ℃
> 
> Load with mesh
> CPU 44 ℃
> MOBO 28 ℃
> GPU 51 ℃
> SSD 34 ℃
> 
> Load without mesh
> CPU 41 ℃
> MOBO 28 ℃
> GPU 48 ℃
> SSD 30 ℃
> 
> Load difference
> CPU 3 ℃
> MOBO 0 ℃
> GPU 3 ℃
> SSD 4 ℃
> 
> So an overall difference of about 2-4 ℃ when removing the top mesh from the panel, somehow the biggest difference was seen in my SSD's.
> Now, dear people at Phanteks... Just develop us a vented top/front panel, and you can make this temp difference even better. :thumb
> 
> 
> :


There are several answers, post #13229 just 11 posts back has lots of detail about vents, size and flow.
But if you do not have case fans (front and top) in sealed panels so their intake to exhaust airflow is segregated from each other all these fans are doing is *blowing* air around, not *flowing* air through your case and vents. As ciarlatano in his post above this.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nycgtr*
> 
> Kidding me right... I just got the primo and I was thinking maybe they might refresh it soon.


Welcome to the real world!









I really don't see how they could make a case much better than the Primo. It is one of the best their is in it's price range.
I think it is the best available at anywhere near it's price.
Does it have some things that could stand improvement? Of course it does!
But you can be sure any new case will have some things that can stand improvement too.


----------



## nycgtr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Welcome to the real world!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I really don't see how they could make a case much better than the Primo. It is one of the best their is in it's price range.
> I think it is the best available at anywhere near it's price.
> Does it have some things that could stand improvement? Of course it does!
> But you can be sure any new case will have some things that can stand improvement too.


It's a nice case, I don't really care about pricing. I got a few minor gripes with mine. But from when I first considered it to now having built in it, my original thought of the case while great is slightly outdated has been confirmed. I hope phanteks will give some loving to current primo owners and offer some upgrade parts for sale. A glass window wouldn't hurt. The factory smoked window door is not even along the top and quite distracting. Also, doesn't seal completely along the top of the door.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nycgtr*
> 
> It's a nice case, I don't really care about pricing. I got a few minor gripes with mine. But from when I first considered it to now having built in it, my original thought of the case while great is slightly outdated has been confirmed. I hope phanteks will give some loving to current primo owners and offer some upgrade parts for sale. A glass window wouldn't hurt. The factory smoked window door is not even along the top and quite distracting. Also, doesn't seal completely along the top of the door.


PM me in a couple of weeks (after Computex 2016 is over) and I'll see if we can get a good window replacement option.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nycgtr*
> 
> Kidding me right... I just got the primo and I was thinking maybe they might refresh it soon.


I'm not sure it's a Primo replacement. At first glance it would appear to be a larger Luxe/Evolv type chassis, which would not be as involved or large liquid cooling loop friendly as the Primo. We'll see what it actually is soon enough, but that is certainly how it appears to me. There has been a general feeling of "if the Evolve was only a little taller so it could fit two 360mm comfortably.....", so this may well be the reaction to that.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> I'm not sure it's a Primo replacement. At first glance it would appear to be a larger Luxe/Evolv type chassis, which would not be as involved or waco friendly as the Primo. We'll see what it actually is soon enough, but that is certainly how it appears to me. There has been a general feeling of "if the Evolve was only a little taller so it could fit two 360mm comfortably.....", so this may well be the reaction to that.


Waco? If I remember correctly Waco ran very very hot.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Waco? If I remember correctly Waco ran very very hot.


A little Kool Aid helps.


----------



## nycgtr

Looks to be the project 916 case tbh. Which seems like a very natural evolution from the primo. I wanted the 916 when they had it up at ces but had no idea when it would be out.


----------



## springs113

So glad I didn't pull the trigger on the Primo last night sheesh. Honestly I hope there's a white version as I love building inside those white cases...it's a different kind of appeal comparing to my 900D and previous cases. I really want a case that stands out like the Primo but a lil more appealing in the front panel area which is a love/like/can deal with it feeling with the Primo. I do hope this case is released real soon because I'm looking to move away from my Core X9. One thing to note though is if I did purchase the the Primo that I was going to get that modded acrylic side panel form mnpc, so I guess that would've been $350. Got my budget now lol. Project 916 Needs to be released ASAP Phanteks.

I hope a Phanteks Rep is reading this...as there is nothing worse IMHO than having a product reveal at the beginning of the year and then later speculated on by the middle of the year by said manufacturer and not release it within 2 weeks the latter reveal. Wishful thinking but I would love to get this case by the end of June if at all possible. I think it's only fair and a lot of my fellow forum members cant wait to get their hands on this case so please(respectfully) hurry up and release this beast.


----------



## michael-ocn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pez*
> 
> Agreed. I would think you'd have to have REALLY poor airflow for that mesh being removed to affect your GPU temps.


Why? GPU temps are dependent on air temp inside the case, it's cooled by a rad setup in the back exhaust position. Makes sense to me that removing the mesh could help in this way...

1. Net greater airflow. Reducing overall resistance from intake at the front panel to an exhaust outlet, increases current (ie. airflow) with fans at the same speeds.

2. Net cooler air running thru the GPU's rad. Less resistance thru the top panel reduces re-circulation of the h100's exhaust back down into the main chamber, more of it escapes out the top, less out the back, so net cooler at rear rad.

While measuring temps in gaming sessions at different times isn't the same as a carefully controlled experiment, it still is an experiment. When playing the same game with similar ambients, i generally see the same temps. It takes a noticeable difference in ambient to see a 3 or 4c difference.

@zenn84 you might be able to improve things further by sealing off the gaps in the top fan bracket.


----------



## pez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> You probably should have bolded, italicized and made the font larger on "REALLY", it is worthy of that. Removing the mesh does very, very little under any circumstance. However, if the H100i wasn't isolated on the rad mount (no openings from top to bottom), it would actually do absolutely nothing.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Wait......these results are not from a controlled synthetic test? They are a "while gaming" (someone kill me) with a ton of variables on *every* component????????? Done on different days in an uncontrolled environment? Gee......I can't imagine why there would be different temps


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *michael-ocn*
> 
> Why? GPU temps are dependent on air temp inside the case, it's cooled by a rad setup in the back exhaust position. Makes sense to me that removing the mesh could help in this way...
> 
> 1. Net greater airflow. Reducing overall resistance from intake at the front panel to an exhaust outlet, increases current (ie. airflow) with fans at the same speeds.
> 
> 2. Net cooler air running thru the GPU's rad. Less resistance thru the top panel reduces re-circulation of the h100's exhaust back down into the main chamber, more of it escapes out the top, less out the back, so net cooler at rear rad.
> 
> While measuring temps in gaming sessions at different times isn't the same as a carefully controlled experiment, it still is an experiment. When playing the same game with similar ambients, i generally see the same temps. It takes a noticeable difference in ambient to see a 3 or 4c difference.
> 
> @zenn84 you might be able to improve things further by sealing off the gaps in the top fan bracket.


Because the vents are negligibly small to the point that the degree of user/tester error is more significant. If the grills/mesh wasn't porous, then sure. There's many other factors that are to blame here before the mesh vents. ciarlatano already started to touch on the subject above.


----------



## michael-ocn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pez*
> 
> Because the vents are negligibly small to the point that the degree of user/tester error is more significant. If the grills/mesh wasn't porous, then sure. There's many other factors that are to blame here before the mesh vents. ciarlatano already started to touch on the subject above.


I'm not so sure I'd consider a 50mm x 60mm opening negligible? With the mesh in place it's probably closer to, effectively, a 25mm x 60mm opening.

Some napkin math... the venting at the back of the top panel is roughly 200mm x 10mm, so 2000 mm square. 50x60 is about 3000 mm square

Removing the mesh adds about 1500mm square give or take.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *michael-ocn*
> 
> I'm not so sure I'd consider a 50mm x 60mm opening negligible? With the mesh in place it's probably closer to, effectively, a 25mm x 60mm opening.
> 
> Some napkin math... the venting at the back of the top panel is roughly 200mm x 10mm, so 2000 mm square. 50x60 is about 3000 mm square
> 
> Removing the mesh adds about 1500mm square give or take.


Your measurements are way off, at least as far as the rear opening. I never sat there and measured the vents. @doyll did, though.....
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> The ends have 37x open slots 5.5mm x 12.9 mm .. this is approximately 26.3 sq cm of airflow area.
> 
> The 10x side vents are 5 mm x 61.6 mm .. this is approximately 30.5 sq cm with the mesh having approx. 0.85 mm holes with 1.6 mm spacing, so about 20% open or 6.1 sq cm of open vent
> 
> This calculates to the top's stock vents having an open area of about 32.4 sq cm with mesh and 56.8 sq cm without mesh.
> By comparison a single 120mm fan has about 100 sq cm of open area.
> 
> The simplest way to improve top airflow is to remove the 4 top mounting screws (2x in back and 2x in front ), pop the top loose and rest it back on the clip mounts, this creates a 5.5 mm x 127.5 mm gap between top and case, which translated into an additional 63.7 sq cm of top venting very easily .. and does not damage the stock case in any way.
> 
> So while removing the mesh does give 24.5 sq cm more open area, it is not as your claim " Difference will be very very big".
> 
> To access the mesh you have to remove the top anyway, and just setting it back on increases the open area increases by 63.7 sq cm for a total of 96.1 sq. cm of open vent area.
> 
> This is an increase of 2.6 times as much airflow as removing the mesh gains, and is tripple the open flow area of stock venting.
> 
> I had to space the front out 15mm to approx. double the front airflow area .. and like the top, component temps did improve a few degrees, not dramatically.


BTW - I've run this test, but I did it with repeatable stress tests and measured temps at the intakes and in the case. Trust me, the difference with the rad isolated is negligible, and non-existent when it is not.


----------



## michael-ocn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Your measurements are way off, at least as far as the rear opening. I never sat there and measured the vents. @doyll did, though.....
> BTW - I've run this test, but I did it with repeatable stress tests and measured temps at the intakes and in the case. Trust me, the difference with the rad isolated is negligible, and non-existent when it is not.


I hadn't seen doyll's numbers, i trust those numbers are definitely more accurate then my loose eyeballing (urrrr... its about 22cm wide by 10'ish mm tall, with some slats)

Doyll came up with 32.4 sq cm with mesh vs 56.8 sq cm without total. That's considerable increase in area percentagewise so I'm surprised it makes no difference?

When you ran your experiments, did you have a rear mounted rad or an unobstructed exhaust fan on the back?


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *michael-ocn*
> 
> I hadn't seen doyll's numbers, i trust those numbers are definitely more accurate then my loose eyeballing (urrrr... its about 22cm wide by 10'ish mm tall, with some slats)
> 
> Doyll came up with 32.4 sq cm with mesh vs 56.8 sq cm without total. That's considerable increase in area percentagewise so I'm surprised it makes no difference?


2 sq cm is a huge percentage increase over 1 sq cm. However, it is still only 1 sq cm.

You have several things to take into account other than percentages, or even the overall area - placement (which is not in line with the fans), angle and shape, etc. Then you consider that you are not adding a large area, and that the top is not nearly as restrictive as people make it out to be in the first place.....


----------



## doyll

Edit: OCN system glitch. It posted the code instead of just text.


----------



## doyll

*Enthoo Evolv ATX top vents*
The top has vents in the ends as well as side vents.
End Vents:
Ends have 37x open slots 5.5mm x 12.9 mm = 26.3 sq cm of end airflow area.
Side Vents:
10x vents 5 mm x 61.6 mm = 30.8 sq cm side vent area - grill mesh blockage
Mesh has cc 0.85 mm holes with 1.6 mm spacing, so about cc 20% open = 6.1 sq cm of airflow area from 10x stock side vents

Stock venting with mesh has an open area of about 32.4 sq cm
With stock mesh removed it is 56.8 sq cm.
Removing the mesh increases top vent area by about 24.5 sq cm

By comparison a single 120mm fan has about 100 sq cm of open area.

Keep in mind that if top top fan radiator mount is used, all open areas not having fans must be sealed so air being pushed into the top cannot circle back down into case.

The simplest way to get more top airflow is to remove the 4 top mounting screws (2x in back and 2x in front ), pop the top loose and rest it back on the clip mounts.
This raised top 5.5 mm creating a 3mm gap on sides and 5.5mm on front. Case is 505 mm deep x 23.5 mm wide
0.5cm x 23.5cm x 2 = 23.5 sq cm
0.3cm x 50.5cm x 2 = 30.3 sq cm
Additiona l top vent = 53.8 sq cm
53.8 sq cm additional vent by simply removing top mounting screws and setting top on latches.

*32.4 sq cm* stock top venting.
*56.8 sq cm* airflow area with side vent mesh removed
*110.6 sq cm* airflow area with side vent mesh removed and top set on latches

Only draw back is to use top on/off switch, top must be latched back down or lifted off.
A 5.5mm spacer could be added by putting a screw into the push button in top, but thern if someone pushed too hard on the top micro-switch could be broken. I would not recommend it unless the latches in top of case are also spaced up the same amount.

And of course seal all holes not having fans in them in the top fan / radiator mount.

*Spacing front out*
I spaced the front out 15mm and that approximately doubled the front airflow area .. and like the top, component temps did improve , but only a few degrees so not a dramatic change.

Here is link to how to remove top and block holes in radiator bracket.
http://www.overclock.net/t/1418637/official-case-phanteks-case-club-for-lovers-owners/13700_20#post_25268315


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *michael-ocn*
> 
> I hadn't seen doyll's numbers, i trust those numbers are definitely more accurate then my loose eyeballing (urrrr... its about 22cm wide by 10'ish mm tall, with some slats)
> 
> Doyll came up with 32.4 sq cm with mesh vs 56.8 sq cm without total. That's considerable increase in area percentagewise so I'm surprised it makes no difference?
> 
> When you ran your experiments, did you have a rear mounted rad or an unobstructed exhaust fan on the back?


While that is a big percentage increase, it's still not much area. As I showed in calculations, just setting top on it's mounting clips gains us 63.7 sq cm versus removing mesh gaining 24.4 sq cm.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *michael-ocn*
> 
> I hadn't seen doyll's numbers, i trust those numbers are definitely more accurate then my loose eyeballing (urrrr... its about 22cm wide by 10'ish mm tall, with some slats)
> 
> Doyll came up with 32.4 sq cm with mesh vs 56.8 sq cm without total. That's considerable increase in area percentagewise so I'm surprised it makes no difference?
> 
> When you ran your experiments, did you have a rear mounted rad or an unobstructed exhaust fan on the back?


Percentages are often deceiving. while 32.4 sq cm to 56.8 sq cm seems like a big difference of 57%, if we compare that to a 120mm fan having 100sq cm of flow area the increase is less than 25% .. If there are 2x 120mm top fans it's only 12.5% increase and the total top vent area is an even lower percentage of fan flow area. Hope that makes sense.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *michael-ocn*
> 
> When you ran your experiments, did you have a rear mounted rad or an unobstructed exhaust fan on the back?


That would make no difference in this case.


----------



## nycgtr

Just looking on mpctech at the clear window for the pimo. Anyone own this? I am looking at v2 which is confirmed to allow for the bottom fan bracket.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nycgtr*
> 
> Just looking on mpctech at the clear window for the pimo. Anyone own this? I am looking at v2 which is confirmed to allow for the bottom fan bracket.


Email them. I'm pretty sure Bill will be who replies. Bill Owen is the owner and a great guy. I've known him for several years.


----------



## nycgtr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Email them. I'm pretty sure Bill will be who replies. Bill Owen is the owner and a great guy. I've known him for several years.


Yea I just heard back, it wont work. You can use the bracket but if you got 140mm fans it's a no go, and I got a 280mm rad there.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nycgtr*
> 
> Yea I just heard back, it wont work. You can use the bracket but if you got 140mm fans it's a no go, and I got a 280mm rad there.


Bummer it wont' work.

Did you ask if he has any options that would work for you?


----------



## nycgtr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Bummer it wont' work.
> 
> Did you ask if he has any options that would work for you?


I guess if I was desperate to have the window I could move the 280 to the front and move the 240 there to the bottom. But I guess I will just leave it for now. If the 916 project case is what's coming, I might just buy it. The window as is shipped is half the price of the primo. Just buy the new case lol.


----------



## michael-ocn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> That would make no difference in this case.


Does it follow that if the back panel were completely sealed, removing the mesh on the top panel slots would make no difference?


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *michael-ocn*
> 
> Does it follow that if the back panel were completely sealed, removing the mesh on the top panel slots would make no difference?


Your asking this question leads me to believe you wouldn't understand the answer.


----------



## pez

I see doyll and ciarlatano beat me to it







. I was wondering where those measurements came from. I wasn't totally convinced I'd be satisfied with using the Evolv ATX airflow wise without having to do slight mods, and was why I ultimately went with the Pro M. However, I'm contemplating doing a fresh mATX or Mini-ITX build with the the Evolv or Evolv Mini. I only wish they had TG versions of those







.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pez*
> 
> I see doyll and ciarlatano beat me to it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . I was wondering where those measurements came from. I wasn't totally convinced I'd be satisfied with using the Evolv ATX airflow wise without having to do slight mods, and was why I ultimately went with the Pro M. However, I'm contemplating doing a fresh mATX or Mini-ITX build with the the Evolv or Evolv Mini. I only wish they had TG versions of those
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


LOL
I wish they made a un-windowed version.


----------



## pez

But where's the fun in that? This case was such a dream to work with and I've never had cable management come out cleaner with this little effort. I rebuilt my old system/secondary rig into the Corsair 550D I came from and it's just not the same. So much so that I don't even want to keep it around for the second build.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pez*
> 
> But where's the fun in that? This case was such a dream to work with and I've never had cable management come out cleaner with this little effort. I rebuilt my old system/secondary rig into the Corsair 550D I came from and it's just not the same. So much so that I don't even want to keep it around for the second build.


Building in a Phanteks case is definitely a pleasure compared many. Corsail is way over-rated any way it's looked at. But their followers are cultists .. or at least have no idea just how much better the products are or how much better the customer support is from companies like Phanteks. Every time I had a problem with a Corsail product it was a constant battle to get them to grudgingly take responsibility.







While the few times I've had a question or needed something from Phanteks they are friendly, helpful and send out the needed bits in a day or two .. sometimes same day.


----------



## dlewbell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Building in a Phanteks case is definitely a pleasure compared many. Corsail is way over-rated any way it's looked at. But their followers are cultists .. or at least have no idea just how much better the products are or how much better the customer support is from companies like Phanteks. Every time I had a problem with a Corsail product it was a constant battle to get them to grudgingly take responsibility.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> While the few times I've had a question or needed something from Phanteks they are friendly, helpful and send out the needed bits in a day or two .. sometimes same day.


I really only got involved in non-OEM computers about 6 months ago. I went with Corsair for the case, power supply, CPU cooler, & RAM based on what I had been told, really not knowing any better. I started out looking to upgrade the case from the Carbide Spec-01 to the In-Win 805 since my PC is sitting in the open in my living room. I wasn't able to find a sliver one for sale, & realized that the H60 I was using wouldn't fit anyways, so I gave up & started looking elsewhere. That search, combined with research for quieter fans lead me to OCN, where I learned about Phanteks. I tried to wait until Christmas, but Newegg had the Luxe on sale for $20 off +$20 rebate about 2 months ago, so I just went for it. The difference in quality & usability was amazing. In my Spec-01, it was a fight to fit cables behind the motherboard try & close the side panel. Even after I did it, you could see cables hanging out above the HDD cage. To go from that to a case with an inch worth of space plus straps for cable routing and an easier to install door was wonderful. I know I also went from a budget case to a much higher end one, but some of the improvements could easily exist on a budget case as well. I saved the case for a leftovers build for my brother's kids, but I wish I had sold it & spent the extra to buy the Enthoo Pro. That build wasn't nearly as fun. Not long after getting my Luxe, the PH-TC14PE ended up on sale+rebate from Newegg as well, so I bought it & sold my H60 on CL. I had been hearing the talk about CLCs vs Air on here, but I had no idea how drastic the difference would be until I made the swap. I'm still using the Corsair PSU & RAM, but when I upgrade video cards (hopefully this winter), I plan to move my old card & the Corsair PSU to my brother's PC to replace the junk in it, & buy a nicer PSU for myself. The RAM is probably the only Corsair product I'm totally satisfied with. It looks good, fits under my cooler, works as expected, & was competitively priced. I can't see myself considering them for much other than RAM or peripherals in the future though. In their defense, the only time I dealt with Corsair CS was to get a replacement for the foot that broke on my Spec-01. I provided the part info & proof of purchase, & they sent me a set of 4 replacement feet without issue. Good thing too; I broke another one last week.

To sum it up, Corsair leaves me indifferent, but Phanteks makes me want to build another computer just for the sake of building.

Edit: Because I feel this post needs pictures.


----------



## doyll

@dlewbell nice looking build!

What are your temps like?
Did you change the 200mm intake fan?


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dlewbell*
> 
> I really only got involved in non-OEM computers about 6 months ago. I went with Corsair for the case, power supply, CPU cooler, & RAM based on what I had been told, really not knowing any better. I started out looking to upgrade the case from the Carbide Spec-01 to the In-Win 805 since my PC is sitting in the open in my living room. I wasn't able to find a sliver one for sale, & realized that the H60 I was using wouldn't fit anyways, so I gave up & started looking elsewhere. That search, combined with research for quieter fans lead me to OCN, where I learned about Phanteks. I tried to wait until Christmas, but Newegg had the Luxe on sale for $20 off +$20 rebate about 2 months ago, so I just went for it. The difference in quality & usability was amazing. In my Spec-01, it was a fight to fit cables behind the motherboard try & close the side panel. Even after I did it, you could see cables hanging out above the HDD cage. To go from that to a case with an inch worth of space plus straps for cable routing and an easier to install door was wonderful. I know I also went from a budget case to a much higher end one, but some of the improvements could easily exist on a budget case as well. I saved the case for a leftovers build for my brother's kids, but I wish I had sold it & spent the extra to buy the Enthoo Pro. That build wasn't nearly as fun. Not long after getting my Luxe, the PH-TC14PE ended up on sale+rebate from Newegg as well, so I bought it & sold my H60 on CL. I had been hearing the talk about CLCs vs Air on here, but I had no idea how drastic the difference would be until I made the swap. I'm still using the Corsair PSU & RAM, but when I upgrade video cards (hopefully this winter), I plan to move my old card & the Corsair PSU to my brother's PC to replace the junk in it, & buy a nicer PSU for myself. The RAM is probably the only Corsair product I'm totally satisfied with. It looks good, fits under my cooler, works as expected, & was competitively priced. I can't see myself considering them for much other than RAM or peripherals in the future though. In their defense, the only time I dealt with Corsair CS was to get a replacement for the foot that broke on my Spec-01. I provided the part info & proof of purchase, & they sent me a set of 4 replacement feet without issue. Good thing too; I broke another one last week.
> 
> To sum it up, Corsair leaves me indifferent, but Phanteks makes me want to build another computer just for the sake of building.
> 
> Edit: Because I feel this post needs pictures.


It really is interesting to hear the opinion of someone just getting into it with no manufacturer allegiance. You wind up reading so much Corsair hype on here that it can drive you batty....especially if you are someone who has worked with just about every manufacturer, and you know that it is all fan boy chatter. I happen to agree with you in the RAM being the only Corsair item worth considering (though I wouldn't personally use it unless G Skill, Adata, Kingston and Patriot all disappeared simultaneously). I have said many times that they are the Toyota of PC components (serviceable, middle of the road) that get priced like Bentleys.

In all fairness, the SPEC series is a much lower line than the Luxe, so the comparison would be harsher. However, you would find it holds true through the line - in the last few pages of this thread, you are the third person to comment about what a huge upgrade moving to a Phanteks was from a Corsair, and they were similarly priced pieces.


----------



## DONGOTTI

Would 2 480 rads (bottom and top) in a primo benefit from air flowing from bottom to top?

Meaning bottom rad as intake flowing up and top rad exhausting out? Both push/pull. Or both rads exhausting?


----------



## springs113

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dlewbell*
> 
> I really only got involved in non-OEM computers about 6 months ago. I went with Corsair for the case, power supply, CPU cooler, & RAM based on what I had been told, really not knowing any better. I started out looking to upgrade the case from the Carbide Spec-01 to the In-Win 805 since my PC is sitting in the open in my living room. I wasn't able to find a sliver one for sale, & realized that the H60 I was using wouldn't fit anyways, so I gave up & started looking elsewhere. That search, combined with research for quieter fans lead me to OCN, where I learned about Phanteks. I tried to wait until Christmas, but Newegg had the Luxe on sale for $20 off +$20 rebate about 2 months ago, so I just went for it. The difference in quality & usability was amazing. In my Spec-01, it was a fight to fit cables behind the motherboard try & close the side panel. Even after I did it, you could see cables hanging out above the HDD cage. To go from that to a case with an inch worth of space plus straps for cable routing and an easier to install door was wonderful. I know I also went from a budget case to a much higher end one, but some of the improvements could easily exist on a budget case as well. I saved the case for a leftovers build for my brother's kids, but I wish I had sold it & spent the extra to buy the Enthoo Pro. That build wasn't nearly as fun. Not long after getting my Luxe, the PH-TC14PE ended up on sale+rebate from Newegg as well, so I bought it & sold my H60 on CL. I had been hearing the talk about CLCs vs Air on here, but I had no idea how drastic the difference would be until I made the swap. I'm still using the Corsair PSU & RAM, but when I upgrade video cards (hopefully this winter), I plan to move my old card & the Corsair PSU to my brother's PC to replace the junk in it, & buy a nicer PSU for myself. The RAM is probably the only Corsair product I'm totally satisfied with. It looks good, fits under my cooler, works as expected, & was competitively priced. I can't see myself considering them for much other than RAM or peripherals in the future though. In their defense, the only time I dealt with Corsair CS was to get a replacement for the foot that broke on my Spec-01. I provided the part info & proof of purchase, & they sent me a set of 4 replacement feet without issue. Good thing too; I broke another one last week.
> 
> To sum it up, Corsair leaves me indifferent, but Phanteks makes me want to build another computer just for the sake of building.
> 
> Edit: Because I feel this post needs pictures.


well corsairs psu's are literally second to none other than maybe seasonic. Their higher end psus are what most enthusiast use. The ax, axi, h and the new rm models are top notch in their respective categories. You really can't go wrong with selecting one of them. I do agree that phanteks(cases) are superb and put manufacturers that's been making cases to shame, but phanteks wouldn't be what they are if it weren't for the likes of corsair, caselabs, Silverstone and a few others. Competition brings innovative advancement in whatever category of product that we as consumers desire. We need each company to keep developing and improving in order for us to get what we want.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *springs113*
> 
> well corsairs psu's are literally second to none other than maybe seasonic. Their higher end psus are what most enthusiast use. The ax, axi, h and the new rm models are top notch in their respective categories. You really can't go wrong with selecting one of them. I do agree that phanteks(cases) are superb and put manufacturers that's been making cases to shame, but phanteks wouldn't be what they are if it weren't for the likes of corsair, caselabs, Silverstone and a few others. Competition brings innovative advancement in whatever category of product that we as consumers desire. We need each company to keep developing and improving in order for us to get what we want.


Here we go again with the fanboy / cultist hype.








First off, corsail make almost nothing. They slap their logo on what others make. But they do make one like of PSU that is decent. The rest are marginal at best.


----------



## ianthegreater

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DONGOTTI*
> 
> Would 2 480 rads (bottom and top) in a primo benefit from air flowing from bottom to top?
> 
> Meaning bottom rad as intake flowing up and top rad exhausting out? Both push/pull. Or both rads exhausting?


It wouldn't hurt anything. Hot air naturally wants to rise, so why force it the other direction?

I've got two 480s in mine and it's overkill for cooling two 980s and the 4790K.


----------



## dlewbell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> @dlewbell nice looking build!
> 
> What are your temps like?
> Did you change the 200mm intake fan?


I'm running 4.6GHz on the CPU, & The GTX 960 is stock. Ambient temps range from 21-23C with case temperatures only a few degrees higher according to the Reeven temp sensors.
At idle, I see 26C on CPU, low 30s on GPU
Typical gaming loads, I see 50-55C on CPU, 72C on GPU
Prime95 SFF + Furmark, I see 73C on CPU, 75C on GPU with about 26C in case (measured open air 2" from CPU intake), 21C ambient.

As for the fan setup, I'm running the following setup:
PSU cover installed, bottom HDD cage removed, top HDD cage installed.
PH-F200SP @ constant 600 RPM front intake. I have 2xPHF140SP ordered for replacement, expected arrival Wednesday.
PH-F140SP @ constant 1050 RPM top intake, middle position, pushed as far forward as possible in slots.
NF-F12 @ constant 1050 RPM bottom intake, front position.
NF-F12 @ constant 1050 RPM attached to back of top drive cage.
PH-F140SP @ constant 1050 RPM rear exhaust.
2x PH-F140HP @ 1.5%/C PWM on CPU heat sink. They tend to idle around 600 RPM, & max out at just over 1300 RPM during P95, & stay closer to the same 1050 RPM I've got the rest set to while gaming.
EVGA ACX single fan cooler on GTX 960, turns on at ~65C, maxes out at 1250 RPM around 75C, turns off around 50C.
Corsair 120mm fan on CX600M, turns on when it wants, turns off when it doesn't. I don't know how to know more without opening it up. Bottom intake, rear exhaust, basically isolated from the rest.

I've used the fan controller to try disabling either the top or bottom intake (or both) to see what difference it makes, & found that my CPU intake temps tend to stay lowest with both running. I'll test again after replacing the PH-F200SP next week. I understand that using the upper HDD cage is probably less than ideal, but my PSU cables are too short to power everything if I switch to the lower cage. That may be something else I revisit later. I ended up with most fans at 1050 RPM by slowly upping the individual fan speeds until I noticed the sound of that fan, & then backing off slightly. At idle, fans are audible, but are a very low hum. Of course, the CPU cooler becomes noticeable during stress testing, but even then it's quieter than the H60 it replaced. During regular use, I don't notice it from the couch until I turn it off & realize the room is slightly quieter.


----------



## DONGOTTI

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ianthegreater*
> 
> It wouldn't hurt anything. Hot air naturally wants to rise, so why force it the other direction?
> 
> I've got two 480s in mine and it's overkill for cooling two 980s and the 4790K.


Understood, thanks. Do you by chance have any pics of your setup? Still trying to figure out reservoir and tube routing etc

I have a white ax 480 and a white monsta 480. Wish I would have researched better because the ax 480 only has 2 ports so I'm stuck with those ports where they are.

Was wanting most of the lines and ports kinda out of sight but oh well


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ianthegreater*
> 
> It wouldn't hurt anything. Hot air naturally wants to rise, so why force it the other direction?
> 
> I've got two 480s in mine and it's overkill for cooling two 980s and the 4790K.


No, hot air does not naturally rise. Heated air expands and heavier air pushed it up.








But seriously, it take almost no 'force' to push air whatever direction we want. After all we are not building passive system with no fans and depending on convection to develop airflow. We are all usings fans, and this means they control the airflow.

That said, drawing air in bottom of case through a radiator and expelling it out the top through a radiator is very logical.


----------



## doyll

@dlewbell
Thanks for the details. You know what it short-comings may be.








Look forward to how the replacement of 200mm fan changes things.

Air is a fickled witch, sometimes doing unexpected things.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Here we go again with the fanboy / cultist hype.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First off, corsail make almost nothing. They slap their logo on what others make. But they do make one like of PSU that is decent. The rest are marginal at best.


Yup....the AX and AXI are nice PSU with garbage cables. The rest are marginal or subpar with garbage cables. And I guess he is only referring to "enthusiats" who aren't enthused enough to keep up with PSUs, and have been magically kept unaware of the Superflower Leadex and Seasonic variations by EVGA, BQ and the like.


----------



## ianthegreater

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> No, hot air does not naturally rise. Heated air expands and heavier air pushed it up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But seriously, it take almost no 'force' to push air whatever direction we want. After all we are not building passive system with no fans and depending on convection to develop airflow. We are all usings fans, and this means they control the airflow.
> 
> That said, drawing air in bottom of case through a radiator and expelling it out the top through a radiator is very logical.


Technically correct - the net effect is the hot air rises.

My argument for running the fans in a bottom-up fashion is that the fans will have to work harder to push the air somewhere it doesn't want to go. While the work done by the fan is minimal, acoustically it will be quieter if you go with the flow. And I'm still talking about the fans.









Dongotti - check my profile for pics of my setup. It's a little outdated (the pics have some R9 270s instead of my current 980s) but the routing is roughly the same. And also be careful of which rad you buy for the bottom. It's really tight width-wise - alphacool barely fits.


----------



## michael-ocn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Your asking this question leads me to believe you wouldn't understand the answer.


Well, there's a difference between not understanding and not being satisfied with an answer that amounts to "because, i say so". You'll have to pardon me for seeking a satisfying explanation for one members results vs another's. But nevermind, this has gotten a little too prickly for my taste.


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Yup....the AX and AXI are nice PSU with garbage cables. The rest are marginal or subpar with garbage cables. And I guess he is only referring to "enthusiats" who aren't enthused enough to keep up with PSUs, and have been magically kept unaware of the Superflower Leadex and Seasonic variations by EVGA, BQ and the like.


hey now, the RMx/RMi series are perfectly fine. they are basically EVGA G2/Superflower Leadex in terms of performance, but have a better type of fan and fan profile. especially the 1000-1200 watt versions. the AX is like a 5+ year old Seasonic platform that has coil whine issues and is outperformed by anything high end today. the AXi are top end, but marginal products that nobody actually needs, except if you want a 1500 watt psu that can run quietly when you need it to. their cases, no longer a fan.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ianthegreater*
> 
> Technically correct - the net effect is the hot air rises.
> 
> My argument for running the fans in a bottom-up fashion is that the fans will have to work harder to push the air somewhere it doesn't want to go. While the work done by the fan is minimal, acoustically it will be quieter if you go with the flow. And I'm still talking about the fans.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Dongotti - check my profile for pics of my setup. It's a little outdated (the pics have some R9 270s instead of my current 980s) but the routing is roughly the same. And also be careful of which rad you buy for the bottom. It's really tight width-wise - alphacool barely fits
> 
> 
> .


While your argument may have a little academic merit, is is not at all sound in application. Net effect is air moves where fans push it with it's temperature having no effect.

As already stated, the amount of energy needed to flow air down versus up is insignificant .. meaning so little difference in that it would almost impossible to measure, especially considering the resistance of grills, filters, radiator fins, etc. Therefore the sound level of fan would not change insignificantly for same reasons .. the sound levels created by vents, grills, filters and radiator fins is so much more the infinitesimal difference in fans is beyond measuring.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *michael-ocn*
> 
> Well, there's a difference between not understanding and not being satisfied with an answer that amounts to "because, i say so". You'll have to pardon me for seeking a satisfying explanation for one members results vs another's. But nevermind, this has gotten a little too prickly for my taste.


Yeah, mine too. I've given length explanations of top vent area as well as some about front. Simply put, closing the back with the margin amount of top venting would be irrational in every way. It would be blocking the only real exhaust vent case has as well as forcing all heated exhaust from GPU up around CPU.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> While your argument may have a little academic merit, is is not at all sound in application. Net effect is air moves where fans push it with it's temperature having no effect.
> 
> As already stated, the amount of energy needed to flow air down versus up is insignificant .. meaning so little difference in that it would almost impossible to measure, especially considering the resistance of grills, filters, radiator fins, etc. Therefore the sound level of fan would not change insignificantly for same reasons .. the sound levels created by vents, grills, filters and radiator fins is so much more the infinitesimal difference in fans is beyond measuring.


yeah the only thing I would add is that some fans with hub up make more noise (due to the fan itself not the air movement) but tbh if a fan works in one orientation quieter than another it shouldn't be in an expensive pc anyway...


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> yeah the only thing I would add is that some fans with hub up make more noise (due to the fan itself not the air movement) but tbh if a fan works in one orientation quieter than another it shouldn't be in an expensive pc anyway...


Fans do make different sounds pushing or pulling and this also on the resistance media in front or behind them is .. the grills, vents, coolers, radiators etc. So orientations do change sounds, and are as normal part of use.

If you are referring to bearing sounds, then yes, that is not acceptable, even in a in a cheap PC.


----------



## springs113

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Here we go again with the fanboy / cultist hype.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First off, corsail make almost nothing. They slap their logo on what others make. But they do make one like of PSU that is decent. The rest are marginal at best.


before you go calling someone a fanboy, you would have to know something about said fanboy...and you don't know jack because even though i own corsair products only 3 are in use by me currently and that is my vengeance headset, x99 memory and h100i in the wife's pc. Everything i use is either thermaltake, msi, seasonic, samsung or wd. I only spoke about corsair because anyone that read that post would see corsair in a negative light. Stop trying to put a company down because it's not your taste...there's a reason why we have choices. Corsair imho got lazy and is just now starting to get back to competition level. And saying they sell stuff that others make is abysmal 'cause just about every company does that whether by licensing or joint venturing. Your point is mute at best.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PureBlackFire*
> 
> hey now, the RMx/RMi series are perfectly fine. they are basically EVGA G2/Superflower Leadex in terms of performance, but have a better type of fan and fan profile. especially the 1000-1200 watt versions. the AX is like a 5+ year old Seasonic platform that has coil whine issues and is outperformed by anything high end today. the AXi are top end, but marginal products that nobody actually needs, except if you want a 1500 watt psu that can run quietly when you need it to. their cases, no longer a fan.


My mistake, I thought the AX was the same platform as the AXI.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *springs113*
> 
> before you go calling someone a fanboy, you would have to know something about said fanboy...and you don't know jack because even though i own corsair products only 3 are in use by me currently and that is my vengeance headset, x99 memory and h100i in the wife's pc. Everything i use is either thermaltake, msi, seasonic, samsung or wd. I only spoke about corsair because anyone that read that post would see corsair in a negative light. Stop trying to put a company down because it's not your taste...there's a reason why we have choices. Corsair imho got lazy and is just now starting to get back to competition level. And saying they sell stuff that others make is abysmal 'cause just about every company does that whether by licensing or joint venturing. Your point is mute at best.


I didn't say *you* were a fanboy.
And I do not need to know anything about you to say your statement below
Quote:


> well corsairs psu's are literally second to none other than maybe seasonic.


*is fanboy / cultist hype*

Their PSUs are not second to none. Not even close.

The important thing is we a consumers cannot believe anything corsail says anymore. Too much of it is nothing but marketing hype. And too many people fall for it.

There's a saying' "A lie told often enough becomes the truth."
Years ago people bought products bases on their being good products others they knew owned. Not people by based on what advertising says. Marketing hype is what rules, not actual quality of product.
Honestly I am not bothered by what you use.


----------



## ianthegreater

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> As already stated, the amount of energy needed to flow air down versus up is insignificant .. meaning so little difference in that it would almost impossible to measure, especially considering the resistance of grills, filters, radiator fins, etc. Therefore the sound level of fan would not change insignificantly for same reasons .. the sound levels created by vents, grills, filters and radiator fins is so much more the infinitesimal difference in fans is beyond measuring.


Let's agree to disagree on this one (though we're essentially agreeing overall). We've established that warm air rises naturally, though there was even some nit-picking that I didn't specifically say that it was the cool air that was pushing the warm air upwards.

Anyways, if the air wants to naturally rise regardless of the intensity of the effect it still makes more sense to work with the forces of nature rather than against. Even if its best case is a 10% reduction in PWM, the difference in the noise from the fans is noticeable and for me, worth it.


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> My mistake, I thought the AX was the same platform as the AXI.


AX is Seasonic XM2, AXi is a custom, digital platform from Flextronics. plenty of other options out there still.


----------



## Faster_is_better

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DONGOTTI*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ianthegreater*
> 
> It wouldn't hurt anything. Hot air naturally wants to rise, so why force it the other direction?
> 
> I've got two 480s in mine and it's overkill for cooling two 980s and the 4790K.
> 
> 
> 
> Understood, thanks. Do you by chance have any pics of your setup? Still trying to figure out reservoir and tube routing etc
> 
> I have a white ax 480 and a white monsta 480. Wish I would have researched better because the ax 480 only has 2 ports so I'm stuck with those ports where they are.
> 
> Was wanting most of the lines and ports kinda out of sight but oh well
Click to expand...

Pic of my setup with 2x 480s.


Also take a look at the Primo Measurements Resource for ideas..

That AX 480 is an XSPC isn't it? I don't know if it would fit in the bottom (may be to wide), but the Monsta certainly will and probably wouldn't fit the top anyway, so looks like those 2 rads would work out.


----------



## pez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Building in a Phanteks case is definitely a pleasure compared many. Corsail is way over-rated any way it's looked at. But their followers are cultists .. or at least have no idea just how much better the products are or how much better the customer support is from companies like Phanteks. Every time I had a problem with a Corsail product it was a constant battle to get them to grudgingly take responsibility.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> While the few times I've had a question or needed something from Phanteks they are friendly, helpful and send out the needed bits in a day or two .. sometimes same day.


Yeah. I looked back at the price I paid for the 550D and was a bit surprised. It definitely was a nice case, and it is a few years old at this point, but Phanteks just one ups that. I haven't had the opportunity to try out a Lian Li or Silverstone case, but I know they generally are well-regarded. But I don't feel that anyone puts out cases that look as good and are as functional as Phanteks. Me being a fanboy







.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dlewbell*
> 
> I really only got involved in non-OEM computers about 6 months ago. I went with Corsair for the case, power supply, CPU cooler, & RAM based on what I had been told, really not knowing any better. I started out looking to upgrade the case from the Carbide Spec-01 to the In-Win 805 since my PC is sitting in the open in my living room. I wasn't able to find a sliver one for sale, & realized that the H60 I was using wouldn't fit anyways, so I gave up & started looking elsewhere. That search, combined with research for quieter fans lead me to OCN, where I learned about Phanteks. I tried to wait until Christmas, but Newegg had the Luxe on sale for $20 off +$20 rebate about 2 months ago, so I just went for it. The difference in quality & usability was amazing. In my Spec-01, it was a fight to fit cables behind the motherboard try & close the side panel. Even after I did it, you could see cables hanging out above the HDD cage. To go from that to a case with an inch worth of space plus straps for cable routing and an easier to install door was wonderful. I know I also went from a budget case to a much higher end one, but some of the improvements could easily exist on a budget case as well. I saved the case for a leftovers build for my brother's kids, but I wish I had sold it & spent the extra to buy the Enthoo Pro. That build wasn't nearly as fun. Not long after getting my Luxe, the PH-TC14PE ended up on sale+rebate from Newegg as well, so I bought it & sold my H60 on CL. I had been hearing the talk about CLCs vs Air on here, but I had no idea how drastic the difference would be until I made the swap. I'm still using the Corsair PSU & RAM, but when I upgrade video cards (hopefully this winter), I plan to move my old card & the Corsair PSU to my brother's PC to replace the junk in it, & buy a nicer PSU for myself. The RAM is probably the only Corsair product I'm totally satisfied with. It looks good, fits under my cooler, works as expected, & was competitively priced. I can't see myself considering them for much other than RAM or peripherals in the future though. In their defense, the only time I dealt with Corsair CS was to get a replacement for the foot that broke on my Spec-01. I provided the part info & proof of purchase, & they sent me a set of 4 replacement feet without issue. Good thing too; I broke another one last week.
> 
> To sum it up, Corsair leaves me indifferent, but Phanteks makes me want to build another computer just for the sake of building.
> 
> Edit: Because I feel this post needs pictures.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I literally feel this way after doing the Enthoo Pro M build. Pretty sure a Mini ITX build is happening in the Evolv very soon







.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> @dlewbell nice looking build!
> 
> What are your temps like?
> Did you change the 200mm intake fan?


I remember something about the 200mm fan from one of the larger cases, that also appears to be featured in the Evolv ITX. I think I've finally decided on doing a build in this case and from the video below, the airflow with *just* it and a D15 or a TC14PE seems to be pretty epic. I wouldn't mind throwing two F120/140SPs up there, however. I just love that I can throw another huge and quiet tower cooler in it with is







.

4:36 is where the airflow piece is (link didn't come through right :/)


----------



## michael-ocn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Yeah, mine too. I've given length explanations of top vent area as well as some about front. Simply put, closing the back with the margin amount of top venting would be irrational in every way. It would be blocking the only real exhaust vent case has as well as forcing all heated exhaust from GPU up around CPU.


Whoa... you completely missed the gist of the question if you thought that was a suggestion?


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PureBlackFire*
> 
> AX is Seasonic XM2, AXi is a custom, digital platform from Flextronics. plenty of other options out there still.


AX is exactly the same as XM2, as in every component is identical and only difference is the label?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ianthegreater*
> 
> Let's agree to disagree on this one (though we're essentially agreeing overall). We've established that warm air rises naturally, though there was even some nit-picking that I didn't specifically say that it was the cool air that was pushing the warm air upwards.
> 
> Anyways, if the air wants to naturally rise regardless of the intensity of the effect it still makes more sense to work with the forces of nature rather than against. Even if its be
> st case is a 10% reduction in PWM, the difference in the noise from the fans is noticeable and for me, worth it.


This last post is totally two faced.
Fine, we can agree to disagree.
No, we are not 'essentially agreeing'.
My statements are based on facts, years of airflow experience and common sense.
Your statements are are gross exaggerations with nothing to substantiate them.
Your 10% difference put you so far out there that we must be communicating with some kind of light-year time folding technology .. some sort of stargate future tech system through a wormhole .. probably vetical wormhole with your special magical 10% PWM warm air in it.







.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *michael-ocn*
> 
> Whoa... you completely missed the gist of the question if you thought that was a suggestion?


You said:

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *michael-ocn*
> 
> Does it follow that if the back panel were completely sealed, removing the mesh on the top panel slots would make no difference?


How is this answer
Quote:


> Simply put, closing the back with the margin amount of top venting would be irrational in every way. It would be blocking the only real exhaust vent case has as well as forcing all heated exhaust from GPU up around CPU.


"completely missed the gist of the question"?









Any way we try to slice it, removing the mesh makes little difference in overall airflow and resulting cooling.
Any way we slice it blocking the venting in back panel would make a huge difference in overall airflow and resulting cooling.


----------



## michael-ocn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> You said:
> "completely missed the gist of the question"?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Any way we try to slice it, removing the mesh makes little difference in overall airflow and resulting cooling.
> Any way we slice it blocking the venting in back panel would make a huge difference in overall airflow and resulting cooling.


If you want to understand what i was getting at you'd have to read thru the earlier parts of the discussion for context. Hint, completely sealed vs partially obstructed. I don't care to explain in detail because, like I said already, this discussion is getting too prickly for my taste, its not enjoyable. So please let it lie already.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *michael-ocn*
> 
> If you want to understand what i was getting at you'd have to read thru the earlier parts of the discussion for context. Hint, completely sealed vs partially obstructed. I don't care to explain in detail because, like I said already, this discussion is getting too prickly for my taste. So please let it lie already.


Sorry, but I never answered the question because I read it exactly the same way. My only reaction was "why would anyone seal the rear fan opening?". It really sounded like you were searching for any possible way to make taking out the grill material look like it does something, rather than looking at rational uses of the case.

You said that you were looking for a way to evaluate between two users results, but this should have told you all you need to know:

User A: Temps taken "while gaming" while even admittedly in different parts of game, no regulation of test, no regulation of uptime (which can cause large variations in internal temps), no temperature readings at intake, no temperature readings inside the case, includes placebo effect of really wanting to see a variation

User B: Temps taken using repeatable stress test at same point of test, uptime regulated prior to testing, case intake temps monitored, in case temps monitored, all possible variables avoided

Which test do you think might be just a weeeeeeeeeeeee bit more accurate?


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> AX is exactly the same as XM2, as in every component is identical and only difference is the label?


I do believe so.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PureBlackFire*
> 
> I do believe so.


Then I'll believe so too.


----------



## pez

@doyll

In all the hooplah, I think you missed my post







. What do you think about what I was asking about the 200mm fan vs 2x120/140?

Turns out the mini ITX board may have some compatibility issues with the D15 + GPU installed.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pez*
> 
> @doyll
> 
> In all the hooplah, I think you missed my post
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . What do you think about what I was asking about the 200mm fan vs 2x120/140?
> 
> Turns out the mini ITX board may have some compatibility issues with the D15 + GPU installed.


That is why they made the D15*S*.....

I'll let @doyll drag out his numbers, but dual 140mm is a significantly better solution than the single 200mm in all respects. Better airflow, lower noise, higher static pressure much better PQ.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pez*
> 
> @doyll
> 
> In all the hooplah, I think you missed my post
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . What do you think about what I was asking about the 200mm fan vs 2x120/140?
> 
> Turns out the mini ITX board may have some compatibility issues with the D15 + GPU installed.


What ciarlatano said about the fans.

While NH-D15 (D15S) are very good, I lean toward the PH-TC14PE .. and several others in the same group. R1 Ultimate & Universal Sivler Arrow SB-E & IB-E for sure, Dark Rock Pro is very close, as are TRUE Spirit 140 Power & Rev. A, Le Grand Macho, Archon SB-E & IB-E, NH-D14, NH-U14S and the list goes on. It's way more important to get cool air to the cooler than what cooler is being used.


----------



## pez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> That is why they made the D15*S*.....
> 
> I'll let @doyll drag out his numbers, but dual 140mm is a significantly better solution than the single 200mm in all respects. Better airflow, lower noise, higher static pressure much better PQ.


Oh cool. I thought the D15S just addressed the memory compatibility portion. I looked at some more photos and it looks like that may be the option to go with if the Phanteks doesn't fit.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> What ciarlatano said about the fans.
> 
> While NH-D15 (D15S) are very good, I lean toward the PH-TC14PE .. and several others in the same group. R1 Ultimate & Universal Sivler Arrow SB-E & IB-E for sure, Dark Rock Pro is very close, as are TRUE Spirit 140 Power & Rev. A, Le Grand Macho, Archon SB-E & IB-E, NH-D14, NH-U14S and the list goes on. It's way more important to get cool air to the cooler than what cooler is being used.


Oh yeah, I'm not dedicated to Noctua, and for uniformity, I'd actually love to go with the TC14. Do you have that nifty little chart from a while back?









The board in question is a MSI A88XI AC V2. The CPU socket (those APU sockets are all kinda like this apparently) is a bit lower than what seems normal, so I've been searching around the web for photos of this board with coolers. However, everyone loves to throw an AIO on it







.


----------



## doyll

MSI A88XI AC V2
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pez*
> 
> Oh cool. I thought the D15S just addressed the memory compatibility portion. I looked at some more photos and it looks like that may be the option to go with if the Phanteks doesn't fit.
> Oh yeah, I'm not dedicated to Noctua, and for uniformity, I'd actually love to go with the TC14. Do you have that nifty little chart from a while back?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The board in question is a MSI A88XI AC V2. The CPU socket (those APU sockets are all kinda like this apparently) is a bit lower than what seems normal, so I've been searching around the web for photos of this board with coolers. However, everyone loves to throw an AIO on it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


Not sure what 'nitty little chart' you mean. "Ways to Better Cooling" link in my sig has a cooler size chart, but it's only big coolers.
D15 and D15S have same RAM clearance, D15S is offset for better PCIe clearance.

Quick scaling of your MB shows about 60mm center CPU to near side of PCIe socket.









Not many coolers have finpacks only 60mm from center CPU, for example NH-D15S is 67mm,

DeepCool neptwin would fit.


----------



## pez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> MSI A88XI AC V2
> Not sure what 'nitty little chart' you mean. "Ways to Better Cooling" link in my sig has a cooler size chart, but it's only big coolers.
> D15 and D15S have same RAM clearance, D15S is offset for better PCIe clearance.
> 
> Quick scaling of your MB shows about 60mm center CPU to near side of PCIe socket.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not many coolers have finpacks only 60mm from center CPU, for example NH-D15S is 67mm,
> 
> DeepCool neptwin would fit.


'Nifty' sir, not 'nitty'







. But I didn't realize it was in that guide....aaaand now I do see it.

In this case I may check out an AIO 120 or 140MM for it. I'd like to keep it to front intake and a single exhaust type of method. Just for cost saving purposes I may stay with the 200mm in front and the AIO as the rear exhaust and eventually get it to upper tier cooling status







.

As always doyll, I really do appreciate your help.

P.S. Where did you find the measurement to PCI-E slot?


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pez*
> 
> 'Nifty' sir, not 'nitty'
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . But I didn't realize it was in that guide....aaaand now I do see it.
> 
> In this case I may check out an AIO 120 or 140MM for it. I'd like to keep it to front intake and a single exhaust type of method. Just for cost saving purposes I may stay with the 200mm in front and the AIO as the rear exhaust and eventually get it to upper tier cooling status
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> As always doyll, I really do appreciate your help.
> 
> P.S. Where did you find the measurement to PCI-E slot?


There are air coolers that will fit and do at least as good ans a CLC 120, if not 140.
I scaled motherboard to view image using the 96mm CPU mounting hole spacing as reference to figure out the CPU center to near side distance.









Edit: Where are you located?


----------



## pez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> There are air coolers that will fit and do at least as good ans a CLC 120, if not 140.
> I scaled motherboard to view image using the 96mm CPU mounting hole spacing as reference to figure out the CPU center to near side distance.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Edit: Where are you located?


In the US







. I'm looking, but based on general measurements, it doesn't look like the U12 S will fit, either (125mm wide). I'm definitely open to suggestions, however. I'm a big air cooling fanboy until I can really focus time and money to a dedicate loop one day. But for now, I love the way air cooling towers look







.

EDIT: I'm assuming the PH-TC12DX may be out of the question, too.


----------



## ianthegreater

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> My statements are based on facts, years of airflow experience and common sense.
> Your statements are are gross exaggerations with nothing to substantiate them.
> Your 10% difference put you so far out there that we must be communicating with some kind of light-year time folding technology .. some sort of stargate future tech system through a wormhole .. probably vetical wormhole with your special magical 10% PWM warm air in it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


Funny how when I'm talking common sense you label it as 'unsubstantiated' but when you do the same (without any sort of evidence such as articles, numbers, or anything other than 'because-I-said-so') they are permutated into irrefutable proof.

Common sense dictates that it takes less force to supplement movement of something that is already in motion than to overcome the naturally occurring force and apply more work to direct the object in the opposite direction. I can break out some kinematics equations to prove my point if you'd like.

Regarding the 10% - admittedly it was a little vague where I was getting this number. It's coming from the minimum adjustment for PWM headers on my motherboard through the BIOS. As I said previously, if working with the airflow allows running the fans at a slightly lower speed to accomplish the same result, then that's a positive effect for me.

You seem to be taking this quite personally - was just trying to discuss. :/


----------



## pez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ianthegreater*
> 
> Funny how when I'm talking common sense you label it as 'unsubstantiated' but when you do the same (without any sort of evidence such as articles, numbers, or anything other than 'because-I-said-so') they are permutated into irrefutable proof.
> 
> Common sense dictates that it takes less force to supplement movement of something that is already in motion than to overcome the naturally occurring force and apply more work to direct the object in the opposite direction. I can break out some kinematics equations to prove my point if you'd like.
> 
> Regarding the 10% - admittedly it was a little vague where I was getting this number. It's coming from the minimum adjustment for PWM headers on my motherboard through the BIOS. As I said previously, if working with the airflow allows running the fans at a slightly lower speed to accomplish the same result, then that's a positive effect for me.
> 
> You seem to be taking this quite personally - was just trying to discuss. :/


I think this is a combination of both the fact that by common sense he means 'look in sig for links of hours upon hours of work that I've done' and the fact that he has done this for thousands of hours (ciarlatano as well).

I get the impression that you think the heat that is rising is rising at such a fast rate that it's causing a huge difference when fans are pushing it another way, but that's simply not the case. Maybe in an open air environment, but in computer cases, it's not going to be this way.


----------



## ianthegreater

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pez*
> 
> I think this is a combination of both the fact that by common sense he means 'look in sig for links of hours upon hours of work that I've done' and the fact that he has done this for thousands of hours (ciarlatano as well).
> 
> I get the impression that you think the heat that is rising is rising at such a fast rate that it's causing a huge difference when fans are pushing it another way, but that's simply not the case. Maybe in an open air environment, but in computer cases, it's not going to be this way.


I'm not expecting it to make a huge impact, just recognizing that working with rather than against something makes more sense.


----------



## pez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ianthegreater*
> 
> I'm not expecting it to make a huge impact, just recognizing that working with rather than against something makes more sense.


Sure, that may be the general thought process, but unless we're talking about open-air benches, then that's not really true. At most you're going to see a difference that is going to fall into margin of error. Between TPU application, ambient temperature, among many other variables. In computer cases, air goes where you push and pull it.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Fans do make different sounds pushing or pulling and this also on the resistance media in front or behind them is .. the grills, vents, coolers, radiators etc. So orientations do change sounds, and are as normal part of use.
> 
> If you are referring to bearing sounds, then yes, that is not acceptable, even in a in a cheap PC.


I wasnt talking about pulling out pushing through anything,I was more saying the fans themselves with no restrictions should not change sound with orientation or they shouldn't be used...so yes pretty much bearings and poor manufacturing included...I know they sound different based on restriction (type and amount) and from push or pull through that restriction...but I've read people say "x fan whines or makes x noise when mounted horizontal" not in my cases....my pc is all phanteks 140sps and swiftech helix 120 and 140s...and one cougar for the socket lol


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pez*
> 
> Sure, that may be the general thought process, but unless we're talking about open-air benches, then that's not really true. At most you're going to see a difference that is going to fall into margin of error. Between TPU application, ambient temperature, among many other variables. In computer cases, air goes where you push and pull it.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pez*
> 
> In the US
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . I'm looking, but based on general measurements, it doesn't look like the U12 S will fit, either (125mm wide). I'm definitely open to suggestions, however. I'm a big air cooling fanboy until I can really focus time and money to a dedicate loop one day. But for now, I love the way air cooling towers look
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> EDIT: I'm assuming the PH-TC12DX may be out of the question, too.


No, I don't think TC12DX will fit.

Did you look at the Neptwin?

Reading on down the thread, the only way to make heat air rising create difference is with a chimney effect, and that takes like many feet to tubing with a significant heat diferenential between room and air in chimney. With CPU coolers the air temperature difference is maybe 10c max. This is enough to create a slow moving airflow up the chimney, but a fin will overcome this very easily, and once the air is flowing the other way any effect the warmed air rising had is gone, so it's effect is moot. But I'm not continuing that with someone who's mind is made up. No amount of fact makes any difference to them.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> I wasnt talking about pulling out pushing through anything,I was more saying the fans themselves with no restrictions should not change sound with orientation or they shouldn't be used...so yes pretty much bearings and poor manufacturing included...I know they sound different based on restriction (type and amount) and from push or pull through that restriction...but I've read people say "x fan whines or makes x noise when mounted horizontal" not in my cases....my pc is all phanteks 140sps and swiftech helix 120 and 140s...and one cougar for the socket lol


Many of the people making those statements use a fan as a front intake, then move it to a top or bottom vent and say 'fan sound different because it's horizontal instead of vertical' not even considering the difference in the vent, clearance of vent to fan or fan to whatever. To them it's only the fan that changed.


----------



## pez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> No, I don't think TC12DX will fit.
> 
> Did you look at the Neptwin?
> 
> Reading on down the thread, the only way to make heat air rising create difference is with a chimney effect, and that takes like many feet to tubing with a significant heat diferenential between room and air in chimney. With CPU coolers the air temperature difference is maybe 10c max. This is enough to create a slow moving airflow up the chimney, but a fin will overcome this very easily, and once the air is flowing the other way any effect the warmed air rising had is gone, so it's effect is moot. But I'm not continuing that with someone who's mind is made up. No amount of fact makes any difference to them.


So, I decided to scrap the $200 mobo combo for AMD I had and do Z97 Mini ITX + G3258. It's going to be a gaming/web browsing/music listening computer for my GF, so I'll be able to OC the Pentium, and not have to compromise on a cooler. And having said that, I'm going with the Phanteks PH-TC14PE_BK.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pez*
> 
> So, I decided to scrap the $200 mobo combo for AMD I had and do Z97 Mini ITX + G3258. It's going to be a gaming/web browsing/music listening computer for my GF, so I'll be able to OC the Pentium, and not have to compromise on a cooler. And having said that, I'm going with the Phanteks PH-TC14PE_BK.


First off - much, much better choice on the MB and CPU!

Second, even OC the G3258 doesn't generate much heat. The TC14PE would really be wasted on it. There would literally be no performance difference between it and a 12DX, Cryorig H5 or C1, be quiet! Shadow Rock Slim, Thermalright TS 140 (or even smaller), NH-U12S, etc. Even a Cryorig H7 would handle it without breaking a sweat.

I'm an advocate of going more than necessary with air coolers, as better passive cooling allows for lower fan speeds. But, a TC14PE on a G3258 is way overkill.


----------



## pez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> First off - much, much better choice on the MB and CPU!
> 
> Second, even OC the G3258 doesn't generate much heat. The TC14PE would really be wasted on it. There would literally be no performance difference between it and a 12DX, Cryorig H5 or C1, be quiet! Shadow Rock Slim, Thermalright TS 140 (or even smaller), NH-U12S, etc. Even a Cryorig H7 would handle it without breaking a sweat.
> 
> I'm an advocate of going more than necessary with air coolers, as better passive cooling allows for lower fan speeds. But, a TC14PE on a G3258 is way overkill.


Oh indeed it is, but I am building the PC with the mindset that my 4770K will eventually be the upgrade for the PC







. Whenever I eventually upgrade my PC next, the chip will carry down to her PC and I won't have to worry about any additional cost. 1:1 swap when it comes time.

And yeah...I was thinking I'd come out better by going AMD with this build, but Mini-ITX as a platform is so limited for AMD. You'd think that'd be crazy since they really only hold the mid-range to low-end market.







.


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pez*
> 
> Oh indeed it is, but I am building the PC with the mindset that my 4770K will eventually be the upgrade for the PC
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Whenever I eventually upgrade my PC next, the chip will carry down to her PC and I won't have to worry about any additional cost. 1:1 swap when it comes time.
> 
> And yeah...I was thinking I'd come out better by going AMD with this build, but Mini-ITX as a platform is so limited for AMD. You'd think that'd be crazy since they really only hold the mid-range to low-end market.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


Yeah I could never figure that one out myself, I considered doing a AMD m-itx build but the complete lack of a AM3+ motherboards killed that idea. Whereas you can get many Intel Z series boards packed with features.


----------



## RavageTheEarth

So I could use some help here. I have an Alphacool Monsta 420mm radiator on my Primochill Wet Bench. Due to dust and looks I'm really wanting to go back to a case. I'm had my eye on the Enthoo Primo for a while now, but I need to know if anyone has successfully fit a 420mm Monsta up top which is 80mm thick. I can't seem to find any pictures of this and even though I've read the Enthoo only supports 70mm to the top of the motherboard that people have successfully fit Monsta rads up there. Motherboard is a Gigabyte G1 Gaming 7 with an Ek monoblock. I measured and the monoblock stands 30mm above the motherboard. Any help would be appreciated.


----------



## maskymus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> Any help would be appreciated.


You can fit Monsta 480rad (not 420) on the top but it'll overhang the DIMM modules if you're going for push/pull. The problem with such large 420rad will be CPU connector and MB heatsink.


----------



## pez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rfarmer*
> 
> Yeah I could never figure that one out myself, I considered doing a AMD m-itx build but the complete lack of a AM3+ motherboards killed that idea. Whereas you can get many Intel Z series boards packed with features.


Yep. I originally wanted to do a mini ITX AM3+ build, but the only board for it is long discontinued







.


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *maskymus*
> 
> You can fit Monsta 480rad (not 420) on the top but it'll overhang the DIMM modules if you're going for push/pull. The problem with such large 420rad will be CPU connector and MB heatsink.


Damn!! Well thanks for the help. Looks like I have to pick up a 360mm radiator.

EDIT: So I bought a Alphacool UT60 360mm off of someone on the forum. Now I'm fighting with myself on whether to get the Primo or the Evolv. I really dislike the blue LED's on the Primo since my build is black, white, and red. The Evolv is extremely sexy, has white LED's, and has (IMO) better features than the Primo.. except you can't put fans above the top radiator mount. I will probably end up going with the Primo, but I just don't understand why they only offer it in blue LED's!! They really need to implement RGB's into their cases. I can't complain though because for the price you are getting a huge bang for your buck.


----------



## Faster_is_better

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *maskymus*
> 
> You can fit Monsta 480rad (not 420) on the top but it'll overhang the DIMM modules if you're going for push/pull. The problem with such large 420rad will be CPU connector and MB heatsink.
> 
> 
> 
> Damn!! Well thanks for the help. Looks like I have to pick up a 360mm radiator.
> 
> EDIT: So I bought a Alphacool UT60 360mm off of someone on the forum. Now I'm fighting with myself on whether to get the Primo or the Evolv. I really dislike the blue LED's on the Primo since my build is black, white, and red. The Evolv is extremely sexy, has white LED's, and has (IMO) better features than the Primo.. except you can't put fans above the top radiator mount. I will probably end up going with the Primo, but I just don't understand why they only offer it in blue LED's!! They really need to implement RGB's into their cases. I can't complain though because for the price you are getting a huge bang for your buck.
Click to expand...

I think the Special Edition Primo's have matching LED? Red SE Primo should have red LED... I agree though, they really could refresh Primo with a few changes, RGB led would definitely be on the list.

Depending on how long you can wait, Phanteks will be releasing a new case (soon?), they just posted a teaser anyway. I didn't see the release date.


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Faster_is_better*
> 
> I think the Special Edition Primo's have matching LED? Red SE Primo should have red LED... I agree though, they really could refresh Primo with a few changes, RGB led would definitely be on the list.
> 
> Depending on how long you can wait, Phanteks will be releasing a new case (soon?), they just posted a teaser anyway. I didn't see the release date.


Do you have a link? I know they are coming out with the tempered glass Evolv ATX in a few days, but is there another case? I'm really having a hard time choosing!!!


----------



## Jiryama

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Faster_is_better*
> 
> Depending on how long you can wait, Phanteks will be releasing a new case (soon?), they just posted a teaser anyway. I didn't see the release date.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> Do you have a link? I know they are coming out with the tempered glass Evolv ATX in a few days, but is there another case? I'm really having a hard time choosing!!!






 - Announcement May 31st, 2016 at Computex.

I am pretty sure it will be the Project 916 case that they showed off earlier this year. I am super excited to see what they have to offer, if they don't disappoint then it will be my next case for a dual system hopefully.


----------



## pez

I looked up Project 916 and j think you're right. Only one ODD unless I'm blind, so maybe a more reasonable size, too. Something I'd like to see in a mid tower. *sigh* it's going to make me want to do another Phanteks build.


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jiryama*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> - Announcement May 31st, 2016 at Computex.
> 
> I am pretty sure it will be the Project 916 case that they showed off earlier this year. I am super excited to see what they have to offer, if they don't disappoint then it will be my next case for a dual system hopefully.


It does look like the Project 916. Just watched this video on it:








So we don't know when it's being released?

The only thing I don't really like about it and also the Evolv is the seemingly restrictive airflow being fed into the case. It does allow for a cleaner exterior look though. Unlike the Evolv I'm glad to see they have an exhaust at the top of the case because the Evolv only has the small side ports at the top. I know I will never use the dual systems feature though. Not sure what I'm going to do. This is a VERY hard decision.

I almost want to pick up the Tempered Glass Evolv. In my opinion, it looks so much better than the Primo. So sleek. That case has RGB on it which is a nice feature. I'm only cooling a delidded 6700k and a 980 Ti so a single UT60 360mm radiator on the front of the case in push/pull should do the job. I'd like to see if I could fit an old 30mm thick 360mm rad that I have up top with no fans as well as the UT60 on the front into the case. Not sure if they would hit each other.

But I really like the Enthoo Primo's dust filter options.

Dammit this is so hard!! I can't choose!! One minute I want the Evolv and the next I want the Primo.


----------



## pez

There's some small mods that can improve the front airflow. Doyll mentioned one that essentially has you space the front panel out a few millimeters. Also, the top should be good enough for exhaust situations. Don't forget it has the rear grill at the top, too.


----------



## springs113

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> It does look like the Project 916. Just watched this video on it:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So we don't know when it's being released?
> 
> The only thing I don't really like about it and also the Evolv is the seemingly restrictive airflow being fed into the case. It does allow for a cleaner exterior look though. Unlike the Evolv I'm glad to see they have an exhaust at the top of the case because the Evolv only has the small side ports at the top. I know I will never use the dual systems feature though. Not sure what I'm going to do. This is a VERY hard decision.
> 
> I almost want to pick up the Tempered Glass Evolv. In my opinion, it looks so much better than the Primo. So sleek. That case has RGB on it which is a nice feature. I'm only cooling a delidded 6700k and a 980 Ti so a single UT60 360mm radiator on the front of the case in push/pull should do the job. I'd like to see if I could fit an old 30mm thick 360mm rad that I have up top with no fans as well as the UT60 on the front into the case. Not sure if they would hit each other.
> 
> But I really like the Enthoo Primo's dust filter options.
> 
> Dammit this is so hard!! I can't choose!! One minute I want the Evolv and the next I want the Primo.


well apparently may 31st we will know more. I'm anxiously awaiting this case, cause i was on the verge of purchasing the primo until i stumbled upon this thread...i may not use the dual system but idc. The tempered glass/modern stylized look will look great in my cave. The overall look of the case i love compared to liking of the primo, this case manages to look flashy whie also keeping that minimalistic design that i loved so much with the primo. This for sure will be my next case.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> It does look like the Project 916. Just watched this video on it:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So we don't know when it's being released?
> 
> The only thing I don't really like about it and also the Evolv is the seemingly restrictive airflow being fed into the case. It does allow for a cleaner exterior look though. Unlike the Evolv I'm glad to see they have an exhaust at the top of the case because the Evolv only has the small side ports at the top. I know I will never use the dual systems feature though. Not sure what I'm going to do. This is a VERY hard decision.
> 
> I almost want to pick up the Tempered Glass Evolv. In my opinion, it looks so much better than the Primo. So sleek. That case has RGB on it which is a nice feature. I'm only cooling a delidded 6700k and a 980 Ti so a single UT60 360mm radiator on the front of the case in push/pull should do the job. I'd like to see if I could fit an old 30mm thick 360mm rad that I have up top with no fans as well as the UT60 on the front into the case. Not sure if they would hit each other.
> 
> But I really like the Enthoo Primo's dust filter options.
> 
> Dammit this is so hard!! I can't choose!! One minute I want the Evolv and the next I want the Primo.


If you plan to build before fall don't count on the 916. Maybe late this year, but it's all guesswork. Looks to me like 916 has venting all the way up and along the top on each side of case. That should give quite a bit of venting.

Evolv flows in from front better than it looks. Probably because the venting has no grills interrupting / restricting airflow. The problem is that many builders put a radiator in the top and don't seal the divider between inside of case and radiator exhaust in the top. End result is then much of the air going up through radiator circles back down into case though the unused fan vents in the top frame.

What do you mean by Primo's dust filter options?

Be very very aware of how big the Primo is. It is way bigger than it looks!

Comparing Primo and Evolv ATX
Primo 250 mm x 650 mm x 600 mm (WxHxD)
Evolv 235 mm x 495 mm x 510 mm (W x H x D)
That is 15 mm x 155 mm x 90 mm difference. Primo is way taller, quite a bit deeper, but not much wider.


----------



## springs113

If you've seen the 900d in person, you should have a nice idea of how big it is. It is not as big as the 900d but it is not that smaller either.


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> If you plan to build before fall don't count on the 916. Maybe late this year, but it's all guesswork. Looks to me like 916 has venting all the way up and along the top on each side of case. That should give quite a bit of venting.
> 
> Evolv flows in from front better than it looks. Probably because the venting has no grills interrupting / restricting airflow. The problem is that many builders put a radiator in the top and don't seal the divider between inside of case and radiator exhaust in the top. End result is then much of the air going up through radiator circles back down into case though the unused fan vents in the top frame.
> 
> What do you mean by Primo's dust filter options?
> 
> Be very very aware of how big the Primo is. It is way bigger than it looks!
> 
> Comparing Primo and Evolv ATX
> Primo 250 mm x 650 mm x 600 mm (WxHxD)
> Evolv 235 mm x 495 mm x 510 mm (W x H x D)
> That is 15 mm x 155 mm x 90 mm difference. Primo is way taller, quite a bit deeper, but not much wider.


A big reason I'm moving from my current Primochill Wet Bench setup is because of dust. While the Evolv has a single bottom and front fan filter, the Primo has a top, two bottom, and a front fan filters. I don't mind big heavy cases and have owned some before (Mountain Mods Ascension!!) so that won't be a problem since I never move my computer anywhere. As of this moment I'm thinking I'll grab the Primo for future expansion possibilities. Don't really want to wait until fall to put this in a PC since I just got it a few days ago and would like to stick it in a case sooner rather than later. Here she is in her current state.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!










I'm also trying to think of future expansion and the Primo seems more suited for expanding the loop/system in the future. If I get the Primo I'm going to buy another 360mm rad so I can run dual 360's while I'll only be running a single 360mm if I get the Evolv. I'll just get another LED strip to replace the blue LED on the Primo since my build is black, white, and red.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> A big reason I'm moving from my current Primochill Wet Bench setup is because of dust. While the Evolv has a single bottom and front fan filter, the Primo has a top, two bottom, and a front fan filters. I don't mind big heavy cases and have owned some before (Mountain Mods Ascension!!) so that won't be a problem since I never move my computer anywhere. As of this moment I'm thinking I'll grab the Primo for future expansion possibilities. Don't really want to wait until fall to put this in a PC since I just got it a few days ago and would like to stick it in a case sooner rather than later. Here she is in her current state.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm also trying to think of future expansion and the Primo seems more suited for expanding the loop/system in the future. If I get the Primo I'm going to buy another 360mm rad so I can run dual 360's while I'll only be running a single 360mm if I get the Evolv. I'll just get another LED strip to replace the blue LED on the Primo since my build is black, white, and red.


Nice setup!
My only real complaints about Primo are lack of airflow area to bottom vents. Case needs to be raised about 35mm. I solved this problem with a open bottom base on 30mm castors. Front venting is also restrictive, but can be solved with an aftermarket grill like MPCTech sell for radiators. Front panel push to release are sometimes a pain, but easy solution is to just remove the lower 5.25 optical bay cover and grip both pieces and latch release is easy. Sure, some complain about the reservoir mounting / cable hiding bracket not being notched out enough for some GPUs, but that is really a miner problem.


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Nice setup!
> My only real complaints about Primo are lack of airflow area to bottom vents. Case needs to be raised about 35mm. I solved this problem with a open bottom base on 30mm castors. Front venting is also restrictive, but can be solved with an aftermarket grill like MPCTech sell for radiators. Front panel push to release are sometimes a pain, but easy solution is to just remove the lower 5.25 optical bay cover and grip both pieces and latch release is easy. Sure, some complain about the reservoir mounting / cable hiding bracket not being notched out enough for some GPUs, but that is really a miner problem.


That's another thing I was wondering about. I use an EK D5 X-Res 140. I'll have a UT60 360mm that will be on the bottom and a 45mm 360mm that will be mounted up top. I won't be using any of the 5.25 bays as I only have one SSD and I'll be using the on board fan controller. Any place I'll be able to mount this?


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> That's another thing I was wondering about. I use an EK D5 X-Res 140. I'll have a UT60 360mm that will be on the bottom and a 45mm 360mm that will be mounted up top. I won't be using any of the 5.25 bays as I only have one SSD and I'll be using the on board fan controller. Any place I'll be able to mount this?


I'm using air cooling so will leave your question to those with similar components. I'm sure one of them is better qualified in that area of knowledge.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> That's another thing I was wondering about. I use an EK D5 X-Res 140. I'll have a UT60 360mm that will be on the bottom and a 45mm 360mm that will be mounted up top. I won't be using any of the 5.25 bays as I only have one SSD and I'll be using the on board fan controller. Any place I'll be able to mount this?


There are two reservoir mounting points in the Primo that should accommodate it. You can also purchase the 120mm fan mount and attach it to the bottom radiator if you like.


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> There are two reservoir mounting points in the Primo that should accommodate it. You can also purchase the 120mm fan mount and attach it to the bottom radiator if you like.


Great thank you. I'll pick up a 120mm fan mount just in case I'm having issues. Much appreciated!


----------



## owcraftsman

I really thought my next case would be the Project 916/Primo Pro until I saw this. Now I'm having second thoughts. Clearly Be Quiet! has put quit a bit of thought into this case. The smaller size I can live with given the functionality and refinement and the Qi charger on the top of the case is a nice bonus. I intend to look at both offerings very closely before I decide for sure.


----------



## maskymus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *owcraftsman*
> 
> I really thought my next case would be the Project 916/Primo Pro until I saw this. Now I'm having second thoughts. Clearly Be Quiet! has put quit a bit of thought into this case. The smaller size I can live with given the functionality and refinement and the Qi charger on the top of the case is a nice bonus. I intend to look at both offerings very closely before I decide for sure.


It's a nice case but I don't think it competes well with current Phanteks offerings (especially if you consider the price of $250 for the Qi version). IMO they need to finally work on better cable management in their cases and a PSU shroud would be a nice touch.
P.S. Thanks for video =)


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *maskymus*
> 
> It's a nice case but I don't think it competes well with current Phanteks offerings (especially if you consider the price of $250 for the Qi version). IMO they need to finally work on better cable management in their cases and a PSU shroud would be a nice touch.
> P.S. Thanks for video =)


I'm feeling the same way. While it is cool, nothing about it pops out at me as interesting when I look at it although it does have some cool features.


----------



## owcraftsman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *maskymus*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *owcraftsman*
> 
> I really thought my next case would be the Project 916/Primo Pro until I saw this. Now I'm having second thoughts. Clearly Be Quiet! has put quit a bit of thought into this case. The smaller size I can live with given the functionality and refinement and the Qi charger on the top of the case is a nice bonus. I intend to look at both offerings very closely before I decide for sure.
> 
> 
> 
> It's a nice case but I don't think it competes well with current Phanteks offerings (especially if you consider the price of $250 for the Qi version). IMO they need to finally work on better cable management in their cases and a PSU shroud would be a nice touch.
> P.S. Thanks for video =)
Click to expand...

I'd like to see a PSU cover as well but motherboard tray is reversible and noise dampened as is the whole case optimized for sound including the rubber feet. The swing of the front door is reversible as is the side panels. Velcro tabs for securing wires and what looks like a bit more depth than Phantekls for cable management which would have to be considering the dual fans on the cable side side panel. A fan hub that does 4pin pwm and 3pin voltage control splitting off CPU Pwm header and adds lighting headers in one central location and one power connection. Then the bottom filter that pulls out from the front and little obstruction for bottom intake all of which I'm hoping Phanteks gets right with the Enthoo Primo Pro. Overall what's most impressive is the Mid Tower form factor and it's water cooling support. In the end that may be it's demise for me because I need a large case but my Primo with home made cart is too tall to fit under my desks if Phanteks would incorporate wheels it might fit. I personally think the Primo would be just fine 40mm shorter and still accommodate monsta rads.


----------



## springs113

From what I read, I think this be quiet is 23x23 d/h I really cant call that a mid tower because that is bigger than my 750d which is in the full tower category.


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Alright so I'm going to stop thinking about this and I'm going with the Primo. I've been making a list all day of stuff I need for the transfer to the case and it just keeps getting bigger so I need to suck it up and place my order already! I've decided that the UT60 360mm is going to go on the bottom of the case with 38mm thick Ultra-Kaze fans pushing and I'm also ordering an XT45 420mm for the top which will be push/pull with my B.Gears fans I'm currently using on my 420mm Monsta. I'm also grabbing black and red sleeved extensions with cable combs for my PSU cables. Don't hate! This PSU is going to be in many more builds after this and I don't want to re-sleeve it if the color scheme changes. Also grabbing a backplate for my 980 Ti since I'm going to be dealing with GPU sag again. Then there is the 120mm pump mount bracket. Lastly, a Koolance drain valve. I use a siphon to fill the reservoir so I don't need a fill port. Am I missing anything?


----------



## pez

That be quiet! case is very nice. Definitely a step in the right direction compared to their previous ones. Though I'd still like to see a PSU bracket/housing.


----------



## omarh2o

Hey guys, im going to probably buy a Evolv ATX soon and have some concerns. I currently use a Asus Rampage Black Edition which is 272mm wide. Specs from Phanteks state it supports EATX boards up to 264mm wide. Is there any reason my board wont fit? From pictures it appears it might cover some of the grommets but that is about it. Any input would be appreciated.


----------



## pez

You might get lucky and he standoff a will raise it enough that that's he case, but someone would have to confirm.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *springs113*
> 
> From what I read, I think this be quiet is 23x23 d/h I really cant call that a mid tower because that is bigger than my 750d which is in the full tower category.


Yeah, that is about it's size.
be quiet! Dark Base (Pro) 900 is 242.7 x 585.5 x 577.2 mm (WxHxD). That is 9.55 x 23.05 x 22.72 inches.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *owcraftsman*
> 
> I'd like to see a PSU cover as well but motherboard tray is reversible and noise dampened as is the whole case optimized for sound including the rubber feet. The swing of the front door is reversible as is the side panels. Velcro tabs for securing wires and what looks like a bit more depth than Phantekls for cable management which would have to be considering the dual fans on the cable side side panel. A fan hub that does 4pin pwm and 3pin voltage control splitting off CPU Pwm header and adds lighting headers in one central location and one power connection. Then the bottom filter that pulls out from the front and little obstruction for bottom intake all of which I'm hoping Phanteks gets right with the Enthoo Primo Pro. Overall what's most impressive is the Mid Tower form factor and it's water cooling support. In the end that may be it's demise for me because I need a large case but my Primo with home made cart is too tall to fit under my desks if Phanteks would incorporate wheels it might fit. I personally think the Primo would be just fine 40mm shorter and still accommodate monsta rads.


how tall is your base? I've made several that raise case a total of 44mm, and have designs that would raise case only 18mm


----------



## springs113

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Yeah, that is about it's size.
> be quiet! Dark Base (Pro) 900 is 242.7 x 585.5 x 577.2 mm (WxHxD). That is 9.55 x 23.05 x 22.72 inches.
> how tall is your base? I've made several that raise case a total of 44mm, and have designs that would raise case only 18mm


then how can they call this a mid tower? False advertisement. However nice this case is. Like a previous poster said, there is no appeal or wow factor for me with this case. I like the look of the primo but i love the look of project 916. It is exactly the kind of unique/stealth design that I'm longing for. I swear phanteks better not screw this one up. I'm due for a makeover and that gtx 1070 is looking mighty appealing (290Xs g2g...too much heat). I really need to change things up in my build, their reveal better have a release date.


----------



## owcraftsman

SOURCE 

++++ more

https://www.techpowerup.com/live/Computex_2016/Phanteks

http://www.technologyx.com/events/ces-2016/phanteks-displays-their-chassis-showcase-ces-2016-update/

Phanteks Elite



not sure I'm liking the sled bottom



Like the removable external drive bay use it or not me likes versatility



Luxe Me tempered glass



OMG









Water blocks



^ Is that a Koolance block?



^Are these fitting too









v I think this is a GPU block



^ That looks a lot like a heatkiller block

v Enthoo Primo DS










V V V V 1080 Water Block



Tempered Glass is all the rage



Pro M TG


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *owcraftsman*
> 
> SOURCE
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Phanteks Elite
> 
> 
> 
> 
> not sure I'm liking the sled bottom
> 
> OMG
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Water blocks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That looks a lot like a Koolance block on the left and the one on the right is reminiscent of a heatkiller


Thanks for posting that! That case does look very interesting. I purchased my Primo last night so I shall not look back!!! I'm feeling the same about the sled bottom. Although it does raise the case up to get some nice airflow to the bottom. I'd like to see more in depth the bottom of that case to see what's going on there. With all the tech powerup watermarks I can't see anything!!


----------



## sebna

My Evolv ATX TG sits in the boot of my car. So I am officially a member now







Saying hello


----------



## pez

Congrats! I'm eager to get my Evolv ITX this week!


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *springs113*
> 
> then how can they call this a mid tower? False advertisement. However nice this case is. Like a previous poster said, there is no appeal or wow factor for me with this case. I like the look of the primo but i love the look of project 916. It is exactly the kind of unique/stealth design that I'm longing for. I swear phanteks better not screw this one up. I'm due for a makeover and that gtx 1070 is looking mighty appealing (290Xs g2g...too much heat). I really need to change things up in my build, their reveal better have a release date.


dude, this is the same be quiet that called the Silent Base 800 a full tower, when the Silent Base 800 and 600 use the same exact chassis as the Bitfenix Ghost and Corsair 300R/450D. an average sized mid tower lol.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PureBlackFire*
> 
> dude, this is the same be quiet that called the Silent Base 800 a full tower, when the Silent Base 800 and 600 use the same exact chassis as the Bitfenix Ghost and Corsair 300R/450D. an average sized mid tower lol.


Point is don't pay attention to advertising hype. Read the specifications .. and if they don't publish detailed specification but only hype, look elsewhere.


----------



## springs113

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> I agree, you 'really need to change things', how about starting with you
> Like quit with all your 'false statements',propaganda and opinions like your's are what everyone thinks kind of babble.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Can you post any data showing what 'mid tower' and 'full tower' sizes are?
> You can't, because there is not size standard to go with them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 'Appeal or wow factor' are a personal thing. Like and dislike whatever you want. Whatever your thing is, go for it!
> 
> Please take that 300 pound chip off your shoulder. Most of us here do not believe as you do. 'Swear' all you want. but do it somewhere else. Why don't you just get some other case and move on? Phanteks will do what Phanteks wants .. and I sure hope they are not listening to your ranting and raving.
> 
> r attitude?


You must be misconstrued because your assessment of me is totally false...attitude ?WHAT? dude if i offend you guess what you don't have to reply. The same way you can speak about my connotation of what I "swear" is the same way I can speak about you taking what I said and trying to turn it around. I have mid tower cases and full tower cases enough to come up with a general consensus that the size category that this case is regarded as does not fit. It is not no where near a mid tower size. I'm pretty sure there is also a general consensus size that a full tower, micro atx, mid tower and super tower falls into. So spare me of what you believe I should and shouldn't do. This case is bigger than my 750D Full Tower case for sure that's a fact...no way can that be considered a mid tower. That is false propaganda...another perspective buyer maybe looking for a TT Urban full tower case which is a bit smaller than my 750D case...going by what the manufacturer states, buy this tower then be unhappy because it is a lot bigger than what they thought. As a buyer you should do your research but not everyone will and most will just go with what they hear, so please stop spreading your misinformation.

I will buy what I want because I will be an informed buyer and no matter what you or anyone else say will deter that. I may come on here for advice from time to time but I also will have my own input. You speak as if you can control what I think or say...you're here stating that I should talk as if what I am saying is what everyone thinks but fail to realize that you are just one person. You can't speak for everyone, you are not a dignified representative of the majority so you can not speak for majority as if you are its leader.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PureBlackFire*
> 
> dude, this is the same be quiet that called the Silent Base 800 a full tower, when the Silent Base 800 and 600 use the same exact chassis as the Bitfenix Ghost and Corsair 300R/450D. an average sized mid tower lol.


I'm sorry I didn't know that because they are not a manufacturer that I specifically watch for cases, fans yea...but cases naw lol.


----------



## RavageTheEarth




----------



## Sem

well you can see the new case here with its specs

http://www.overclock.net/t/1601566/various-computex-2016-pic-video-heavy/0_40#post_25209394

its a real beast far to large for me so i will be passing









they also have a tempered glass luxe which is also disappointing

the luxe is 2 years old now would rather they made a new one with better rad support and other improvements

sigh... hope corsair bring something good to the table for people looking for a good full tower


----------



## KaffieneKing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sem*
> 
> well you can see the new case here with its specs
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1601566/various-computex-2016-pic-video-heavy/0_40#post_25209394
> 
> its a real beast far to large for me so i will be passing
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> they also have a tempered glass luxe which is also disappointing
> 
> the luxe is 2 years old now would rather they made a new one with better rad support and other improvements
> 
> sigh... hope corsair bring something good to the table for people looking for a good full tower


I want more DS cases MOAR!!!

Erm... I mean really looking forward to getting more details on this so I can maybe get one to put my systems in


----------



## Sem

i know i had a 750D before but that got swaped out the momment i laid eyes on the Luxe

but the again as good as the luxe is it does have afew flaws and not the best radiator support

been eagerly following phanteks hoping for a new case but looks like i need to look elsewhere


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sem*
> 
> i know i had a 750D before but that got swaped out the momment i laid eyes on the Luxe
> 
> but the again as good as the luxe is it does have afew flaws and not the best radiator support
> 
> been eagerly following phanteks hoping for a new case but looks like i need to look elsewhere


I can understand that.
The thing is that often for a company to mod an existing case is not cheap, so hey make a new one instead. Some of the 'improvements' users want, like a little taller and/or deeper for bigger / more radiator do cost as much as releasing a whole new case .. because they require most of the panel molds to be made to accommodate the changes.

I'm like you, I would rather see 2nd and 3rd editions of a model with the improvement at fit in same case, but sadly it's not the way the world works.


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sem*
> 
> well you can see the new case here with its specs
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1601566/various-computex-2016-pic-video-heavy/0_40#post_25209394
> 
> its a real beast far to large for me so i will be passing
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> they also have a tempered glass luxe which is also disappointing
> 
> the luxe is 2 years old now would rather they made a new one with better rad support and other improvements
> 
> sigh... hope corsair bring something good to the table for people looking for a good full tower


this was posted earlier already.









agree, I've been wanting all of Phanteks cases to get a revision for a while now. IMO they should make the Luxe bigger and more expensive, to totally separate it from the Pro, with a new chassis and all. about the same height as the Storm Stryker (it's already a better case than that one though and has better rad support), and 780T, but with the space used well instead of all that wasted bulk those cases have.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sem*
> 
> i know i had a 750D before but that got swaped out the momment i laid eyes on the Luxe
> 
> but the again as good as the luxe is it does have afew flaws and not the best radiator support
> 
> been eagerly following phanteks hoping for a new case but looks like i need to look elsewhere


I also have both the 750D and the Luxe. the 750D has better front radiator support, but the Luxe has better top mounting period and finishing touches like rubber pads on the psu area and all intakes covered with dust filters. the bottom intake on the 750D is a dirt magnet even with no fans installed. and the bottom mount itself was screwed up in production. thermaltake has some nice options these days. give them a look.


----------



## owcraftsman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *springs113*
> 
> From what I read, I think this be quiet is 23x23 d/h I really cant call that a mid tower because that is bigger than my 750d which is in the full tower category.
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah, that is about it's size.
> be quiet! Dark Base (Pro) 900 is 242.7 x 585.5 x 577.2 mm (WxHxD). That is 9.55 x 23.05 x 22.72 inches.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *owcraftsman*
> 
> I'd like to see a PSU cover as well but motherboard tray is reversible and noise dampened as is the whole case optimized for sound including the rubber feet. The swing of the front door is reversible as is the side panels. Velcro tabs for securing wires and what looks like a bit more depth than Phantekls for cable management which would have to be considering the dual fans on the cable side side panel. A fan hub that does 4pin pwm and 3pin voltage control splitting off CPU Pwm header and adds lighting headers in one central location and one power connection. Then the bottom filter that pulls out from the front and little obstruction for bottom intake all of which I'm hoping Phanteks gets right with the Enthoo Primo Pro. Overall what's most impressive is the Mid Tower form factor and it's water cooling support. In the end that may be it's demise for me because I need a large case but my Primo with home made cart is too tall to fit under my desks if Phanteks would incorporate wheels it might fit. I personally think the Primo would be just fine 40mm shorter and still accommodate monsta rads.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> how tall is your base? I've made several that raise case a total of 44mm, and have designs that would raise case only 18mm
Click to expand...

70mm and I used the smallest wheels I could find that would support the weight on 4 rollers if I moved up to 6 rollers maybe I could go smaller. I've seen your cart here in this thread didn't look only 44mm high but may be. I wouldn't mind seeing both ideas


----------



## owcraftsman

Sry 4 dbl post but new stuff

*Phanteks Glacier G1080 Water Block*

*Subject: Graphics Cards | May 30, 2016 - 07:24 PM | Jeremy Hellstrom
Tagged: G1080, phanteks, computex 2016*



Walnut, California, May, 30 th , 2016 - Phanteks a leader in thermal cooling, is excited to launch their very first water block designed for the new Nvidia GTX 1080 Founders Edition. The G1080 is made from premium materials and finest standards of craftsmanship from Phanteks.

From military standard Viton O-ring to the RGB LED lighting, all of our exceptionally high-quality materials are carefully selected. The water block features a nickel-plated copper cold plate, acrylic top and sandblasted cover plates for an elegant look.



The G1080 uses military class Viton O-ring compared to silicone O-rings used by other manufacturers, well known for its excellent heat resistance and its durability. The G1080 also features RGB LED lighting that can sync with Phanteks cases that supports RGB lighting or motherboards' RGB software by using our Phanteks RGB adapter.



Available at most local retailers - MSRP: $129.99 / €129,90 / £99.99 (VAT included)


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *owcraftsman*
> 
> Sry 4 dbl post but new stuff
> 
> *Phanteks Glacier G1080 Water Block*
> 
> *Subject: Graphics Cards | May 30, 2016 - 07:24 PM | Jeremy Hellstrom
> 
> Tagged: G1080, phanteks, computex 2016*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Walnut, California, May, 30 th , 2016 - Phanteks a leader in thermal cooling, is excited to launch their very first water block designed for the new Nvidia GTX 1080 Founders Edition. The G1080 is made from premium materials and finest standards of craftsmanship from Phanteks.
> From military standard Viton O-ring to the RGB LED lighting, all of our exceptionally high-quality materials are carefully selected. The water block features a nickel-plated copper cold plate, acrylic top and sandblasted cover plates for an elegant look.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The G1080 uses military class Viton O-ring compared to silicone O-rings used by other manufacturers, well known for its excellent heat resistance and its durability. The G1080 also features RGB LED lighting that can sync with Phanteks cases that supports RGB lighting or motherboards' RGB software by using our Phanteks RGB adapter.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Available at most local retailers - MSRP: $129.99 / €129,90 / £99.99 (VAT included)


Nice looking block, I am thinking seriously about a GTX 1070 so hopefully they make a block for that also.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rfarmer*
> 
> Nice looking block, I am thinking seriously about a GTX 1070 so hopefully they make a block for that also.


I was thinking exactly the same thing.


----------



## n64ADL

that was one nice gtx 1080 waterblock, hope they make a 1070 one and i'll jump on that.


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> I was thinking exactly the same thing.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *n64ADL*
> 
> that was one nice gtx 1080 waterblock, hope they make a 1070 one and i'll jump on that.


I have been reading through the recent reviews on the 1070 and performance for $380 is amazing, I have been wanting to upgrade to a 1440 monitor but my 970 really isn't up to 1440, but is great at 1080. I just can't see spending the extra money on a 1080.


----------



## PureBlackFire

here it is


----------



## RavageTheEarth

HOLY MOTHER OF JESUS THAT IS EXPENSIVE.


----------



## Sem

i wonder how many they will sell.....


----------



## JbstormburstADV

It seems to me that Phanteks is looking towards Lian Li's and Parvum's market share, considering how mutable the panels in the case are.


----------



## rfarmer

I mean that is very cool the vertical sli gpu's is very, very cool. I could see maybe $400, but not more.


----------



## nycgtr

The updated primo sigh. If only I waited 2 weeks. Wonder if that riser bracket will fit the original primo


----------



## NFL

Probably not going to happen, but I would love to see the Evolv ITX with a vertical PCI slot and tempered glass panel.


----------



## pez

Interesting to see a tempered glass version of the Pro M after the Acrylic edition. However, it looks like the thumb screws are in the same position (glancing at HardwareCanucks video). I'd be eager to buy a panel to replace my acrylic one STAT.


----------



## sav4

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *owcraftsman*
> 
> SOURCE
> 
> ++++ more
> 
> https://www.techpowerup.com/live/Computex_2016/Phanteks
> 
> http://www.technologyx.com/events/ces-2016/phanteks-displays-their-chassis-showcase-ces-2016-update/
> 
> Phanteks Elite
> 
> 
> 
> 
> not sure I'm liking the sled bottom
> 
> 
> 
> Like the removable external drive bay use it or not me likes versatility
> 
> 
> 
> Luxe Me tempered glass
> 
> 
> 
> OMG
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Water blocks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ^ Is that a Koolance block?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ^Are these fitting too
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> v I think this is a GPU block
> 
> 
> 
> ^ That looks a lot like a heatkiller block
> 
> v Enthoo Primo DS
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> V V V V 1080 Water Block
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tempered Glass is all the rage
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Pro M TG


Some nice gear there thanks for posting.
Are you lucky enough to be there ?

@owcraftsman


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sav4*
> 
> Some nice gear there thanks for posting.
> Are you lucky enough to be there ?
> 
> @owcraftsman


Just a heads up you should put a spoiler tag when quoting that many pictures.


----------



## Dorito Bandit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PureBlackFire*
> 
> here it is
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


$700 dollars! What a steal!

I think I'll stick to my $100 *Enthoo Poor* case!


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *owcraftsman*
> 
> 70mm and I used the smallest wheels I could find that would support the weight on 4 rollers if I moved up to 6 rollers maybe I could go smaller. I've seen your cart here in this thread didn't look only 44mm high but may be. I wouldn't mind seeing both ideas


I started using 40mm casters and changed to 30mm twin wheel swivel casters with 25 kg (55 pounds) load rating. Both used theaded pin mounts into 10mm solid birch plywood bases for smallest distance between caster and base.
30mm caster + 5mm clearance + 9mm base (10mm plywood) = 44mm.

Base before drilling and tapping for studs and painting


Low-boy base design fixed caster 31mm lift (22mm floor clearance) I do not advise the Low-boy design with swivel casters. It is inherently unstable with swivel casters because when they turn sideways under base they are way in under case.


Low-boy base design fixed caster 15mm lift (5mm floor clearance) I do not advise the Low-boy design with swivel casters. It is inherently unstable with swivel casters because when they turn sideways under base they are way in under case.


----------



## sav4

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> Just a heads up you should put a spoiler tag when quoting that many pictures.


Sorry on mobile no option that I can see ?


----------



## WHIMington

Not so sure about the waterblocks and the ODD bay of the elite, for us fan controller user, nost of the time all we need is small L brackets to hold the controller in place, that ODD bay seems to block atless 1 fan bay on top.

For waterblocks TBH, unless they have a very good nickel coating I am not buying.

And I agree that instead of the tempered grass version, I'd rather have a V2 that have better rad support.


----------



## tongerks

still waiting for new evolv mATX revisions


----------



## pez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tongerks*
> 
> still waiting for new evolv mATX revisions


I honestly think the worst version of the Evolv is the 'original' mATX one. They definitely fixed all the wrong-doings (IMO) with the Evolv ITX and ATX. It's actually part of the reason I went Mini-ITX with my upcoming secondary build.


----------



## owcraftsman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sav4*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *owcraftsman*
> 
> SOURCE
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> ++++ more
> 
> https://www.techpowerup.com/live/Computex_2016/Phanteks
> 
> http://www.technologyx.com/events/ces-2016/phanteks-displays-their-chassis-showcase-ces-2016-update/
> 
> Phanteks Elite
> 
> 
> 
> not sure I'm liking the sled bottom
> 
> 
> Like the removable external drive bay use it or not me likes versatility
> 
> 
> Luxe Me tempered glass
> 
> 
> OMG
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Water blocks
> 
> 
> 
> ^ Is that a Koolance block?
> 
> 
> 
> ^Are these fitting too
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> v I think this is a GPU block
> 
> 
> ^ That looks a lot like a heatkiller block
> 
> v Enthoo Primo DS
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> V V V V 1080 Water Block
> 
> 
> 
> Tempered Glass is all the rage
> 
> 
> 
> Pro M TG
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some nice gear there thanks for posting.
> Are you lucky enough to be there ?
> 
> @owcraftsman
Click to expand...

That would be a lot of fun but NO I'm not there.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *owcraftsman*
> 
> 70mm and I used the smallest wheels I could find that would support the weight on 4 rollers if I moved up to 6 rollers maybe I could go smaller. I've seen your cart here in this thread didn't look only 44mm high but may be. I wouldn't mind seeing both ideas
> 
> 
> 
> I started using 40mm casters and changed to 30mm twin wheel swivel casters with 25 kg (55 pounds) load rating. Both used theaded pin mounts into 10mm solid birch plywood bases for smallest distance between caster and base.
> 30mm caster + 5mm clearance + 9mm base (10mm plywood) = 44mm.
> 
> Base before drilling and tapping for studs and painting
> 
> 
> Low-boy base design fixed caster 31mm lift (22mm floor clearance) I do not advise the Low-boy design with swivel casters. It is inherently unstable with swivel casters because when they turn sideways under base they are way in under case.
> 
> 
> Low-boy base design fixed caster 15mm lift (5mm floor clearance) I do not advise the Low-boy design with swivel casters. It is inherently unstable with swivel casters because when they turn sideways under base they are way in under case.
Click to expand...

I got my casters off the shelf at Lowes they are 1-1/2" surface mount adds another 1/2" for clearance. They were the smallest they had. I used solid 3/4" poplar 1x2 for the frame which I dado screewd & glued. All put together as mentioned above 70mm over all. I was very careful to place casters directly under the rubber feet of the case. I can see your casters are quit a bit more low profile. Where did you get those? and thanks for posting this all up again I know you done this several times.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *owcraftsman*
> 
> That would be a lot of fun but NO I'm not there.
> 
> I got my casters off the shelf at Lowes they are 1-1/2" surface mount adds another 1/2" for clearance. They were the smallest they had. I used solid 3/4" poplar 1x2 for the frame which I dado screewd & glued. All put together as mentioned above 70mm over all. I was very careful to place casters directly under the rubber feet of the case. I can see your casters are quit a bit more low profile. Where did you get those? and thanks for posting this all up again I know you done this several times.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Castors Unlimited here in UK has them. I use the M8 x 12 mm studs with drilled and tapped holes in base. I'm afraid poplar is too soft to work for threaded studs.
http://www.castorsunlimited.co.uk/30mm-black-hard-wheel-castor-with-choice-of-stem/
I would assume there is a source of similar if not the same somewhere there.

Could possibly use something like 4 pronged tee nuts and countersink them in to be flush with bottom of base. The hole for stud would need to be 2 sizes; one the outside size of tee nuts to their depth and other the size of stud so stud going beyond tee nut would be support by sides of hole. Probably need to glue tee nuts into bottom of base. Voidless baltic birtch is sold in USA. I know of a couple of places in SoCal that have it. This may be the some. Can't tell for sure. If it was me I would ask the supplier if it is 7 ply voidless solid birch plywood. I used Quick-Set CA (cyanoacrylate) adhesive the consistency of honey and activator to glue the lap joint corners. Assembly of frame is first as two 'L' shaped pieces, then glue these 'L's together. Rockler sell it. They have Baltic birch plywood too, but not 3/8" (9mm). I use 9mm because it is same thickness as Primo base is as well as depth threaded studs screw in.








PM me If you want more info.


----------



## Flyingsea

Hello, fellows!

I'm going to build my rig with Enthoo Evolv ATX with Swiftech H320 X2 on the top position.

But i don't really like the look of it (the rad and fans covering the mobo)


I'm aware of the top cavity lifehack that enables to place a fans inside the top cover (at least 2x140mm)


So my question is: will it possible to put 3x120mm fan in this cavity?
Otherwise I'll just buy smaller AIO to put it this way.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Flyingsea*
> 
> Hello, fellows!
> 
> I'm going to build my rig with Enthoo Evolv ATX with Swiftech H320 X2 on the top position.
> 
> But i don't really like the look of it (the rad and fans covering the mobo)
> 
> 
> I'm aware of the top cavity lifehack that enables to place a fans inside the top cover (at least 2x140mm)
> 
> 
> So my question is: will it possible to put 3x120mm fan in this cavity?
> Otherwise I'll just buy smaller AIO to put it this way.


You can absolutely do the same for three 120mm....and they will be as absolutely useless as two 140mm in that location!

The fans up there are mounted almost directly against the top, they can't breathe and move almost no air.


----------



## Flyingsea

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> You can absolutely do the same for three 120mm....and they will be as absolutely useless as two 140mm in that location!
> 
> The fans up there are mounted almost directly against the top, they can't breathe and move almost no air.


Have you tried that? Because I've heard that there is about 45mm of free space on top, that leaves us with 20mm of space with a fans mounted. I think it's the same amount the front fans have by default.
I can't find any real tests of this modification, sadly.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Flyingsea*
> 
> Hello, fellows!
> 
> I'm going to build my rig with Enthoo Evolv ATX with Swiftech H320 X2 on the top position.
> 
> But i don't really like the look of it (the rad and fans covering the mobo)
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm aware of the top cavity lifehack that enables to place a fans inside the top cover (at least 2x140mm)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So my question is: will it possible to put 3x120mm fan in this cavity?
> Otherwise I'll just buy smaller AIO to put it this way.


I would be very surprised if it lowers temps at all.








I would expect it to increase thems.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Flyingsea*
> 
> Have you tried that? Because I've heard that there is about 45mm of free space on top, that leaves us with 20mm of space with a fans mounted. I think it's the same amount the front fans have by default.
> I can't find any real tests of this modification, sadly.


a fan needs about 45mm of free space for air to flow to or away from the fan.








Listen to ciarlatano, he knows what he is talking about.


----------



## Flyingsea

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> a fan needs about 45mm of free space for air to flow to or away from the fan.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Listen to ciarlatano, he knows what he is talking about.


Thank you!
But what if I place top fans as intake in this cavity and do some CNC **** with the top panel for better airflow? (as someone suggested in the older post)
Will it help? I really like the look of this case without this sandwich on top. (the front pannel reserved for hybrid gpus)


----------



## pez

Someone posted a mod a few pages back with something that cut holes into the top portion of the case. I mean if you're comfortable doing that to a new case....

Outside of that, you'd just need a dust filter and call it a day.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Flyingsea*
> 
> Thank you!
> But what if I place top fans as intake in this cavity and do some CNC **** with the top panel for better airflow? (as someone suggested in the older post)
> Will it help? I really like the look of this case without this sandwich on top. (the front pannel reserved for hybrid gpus)


What Pez said.

If you put a vent over the fans it will work. But make sure the vent is not too restrictive.


----------



## pez

Doyll, as much as we both don't care for Corsair, what do you make of the fans that they've announced? 2K RPM fans with a floating magnetic bearing. I'll look for a link.

EDIT:

The "Build it Cooler - A Revolutionary New Range of Magnetic Levitation Technology Fans" section







.

http://www.guru3d.com/news_story/corsair_shows_cool_new_gear_at_computex.html

EDIT2:

I'm also curious what you think about the TG panel of the Pro M TG working on the Acrylic Edition. I imagine it either will as they kept the same chassis to save money, or they pulled something slick like offsetting the holes a couple mm to make them incompatible.. I have emailed their sales and support emails, and I'm patiently awaiting a response







.


----------



## velocityx

Interesting. seeing as so many cases now got Tempered Glass treatment, that vertical mount GPU bracket looks like it could be compatible with more phanteks cases.


----------



## Faster_is_better

That Elite case is massive. Nice....









560 rad supported in the front, plus support for 2 more large rads easily, that is some intense cooling capacity.

Looks like they stepped up on build quality even more, considering the price I expect there is very very little plastic on the Elite. Looks quite solid, I'll be interested in a total review of it.

Phanteks branching out is pretty cool as well. That 1080 block looks nice, plus the cpu blocks and fittings looked good as well


----------



## nycgtr

699 seems steep. That's past caselabs. At 600 I would of bit. I need to see the case in person before committing to 699, and that's not really going to be possible I think.


----------



## KaffieneKing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nycgtr*
> 
> 699 seems steep. That's past caselabs. At 600 I would of bit. I need to see the case in person before committing to 699, and that's not really going to be possible I think.


The onlyt markets this case makes sense is where it is cheaper than caselabs, and in the UK no store would have this case in stock

(Not that I can afford to put out that much for a case anyway!)


----------



## springs113

Looks like I'm going caselabs.


----------



## paskowitz

If you have the money to fill a case like the Elite (or Caselabs) with components that take advantage of the extra size... surely the cost of the case isn't as big of a concern? What is $100-200 in a system that will likely cost >$3,000? That being said, there is nothing wrong with being a frugal shopper at any price range.


----------



## nycgtr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> If you have the money to fill a case like the Elite (or Caselabs) with components that take advantage of the extra size... surely the cost of the case isn't as big of a concern? What is $100-200 in a system that will likely cost >$3,000? That being said, there is nothing wrong with being a frugal shopper at any price range.


Well the main thing is. With a caselabs case I can expand it, change it around etc. With these other cases your just stuck with it as is for the most part. I might one day want something different, to which I need a new case, and cases aren't exactly easy ship and sell item vs other parts.


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nycgtr*
> 
> Well the main thing is. With a caselabs case I can expand it, change it around etc. With these other cases your just stuck with it as is for the most part. I might one day want something different, to which I need a new case, and cases aren't exactly easy ship and sell item vs other parts.


Fair point.


----------



## RavageTheEarth

So I bought a thing.

*PICTURES*


----------



## RavageTheEarth

So I picked up an Enthoo Primo. Wasn't about to wait and drop $600 on the Enthoo Pro. Fedex Ground only took one day to get to me from Newegg! I called Performance-PCS to upgrade my shipping to 2nd Day Air so I can have everything I need to build for the weekend.

Here it is next to an NZXT S340. Not too big!!!


Oh....


Boxception


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







Packing looked good and the box wasn't damaged. Probably because it was only in transit for one day...


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







Here she is fresh out of the box


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







A lot of the case has a very nice brushed finish. Very pleasing to the eyes.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







Wasn't too happy with this piece of tape. If you don't pull it off very slowly it will leave adhesive on the case.. and not the good Fallout 4 type of adhesive.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







Something else I don't like. They slap a "Made In China" sticker and the serial number right above the I/O ports. Really disrupts the flow of the case. I peeled the China sticker off immediately. Once I'm sure there is nothing wrong with the case I'm going to take the serial number off too.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







I'll continue this trend with another thing I wasn't happy with. They installed the smaller window with a part of the protective plastic shoved under it so it rips off when you are taking the plastic off. You need to loosen the window clips to slide that piece of plastic out. I did not have this problem with the large window.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







Front of the case opened. Looks very promising. First order of business is to remove all the hard drive bays too open up some more room.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!








Back of the case opened. Incredible cable management possibilities and this awesome fan controller which will finally allow me to get rid of my 5.25 fan controller. Not too mention the huge accessory box!!


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







and finally the accessory box. A ton of awesome stuff in here!


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!








Overall I'm very pleased. All the complaints I had are very minor and can be fixed easily. I cannot wait to get start building in it on Friday night!


----------



## pez

Very nice, good sir!

Those stickers above the I/O port were the second thing I removed after unsheathing my Acrylic panel







. Very eager to see your build, so keep us updated!


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pez*
> 
> Very nice, good sir!
> 
> Those stickers above the I/O port were the second thing I removed after unsheathing my Acrylic panel
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Very eager to see your build, so keep us updated!


Thanks! I'll definitely post updates of the build here. I also have a build log. I'm taking some time now to strip everything I don't need out of the case. Looking A LOT more open now.


----------



## Faster_is_better

Congrats. New cases are great to open up and look at.

If you are planning a long build it may have been a good idea to keep that plastic over the windows for scratch protection, but if you have room to set it safely aside, no problem.









All of the little push in latches and plastic parts are intact as well? Some good luck there.


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Faster_is_better*
> 
> Congrats. New cases are great to open up and look at.
> 
> If you are planning a long build it may have been a good idea to keep that plastic over the windows for scratch protection, but if you have room to set it safely aside, no problem.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All of the little push in latches and plastic parts are intact as well? Some good luck there.


Yeah the hours are flying by messing with this thing! Wish my radiators were here already so I could put them in! I have heard about the side windows scratching easily and deep down I knew that I should have kept the plastic on, but I couldn't help myself. Peeling that stuff off is the best feeling!







I wrapped it up in a towel and set it off to the side so it should be fine.

The case is looking really good. Everything is intact and no broken pieces anywhere. Paint looks really even too. Looks like I got a good one!


----------



## RavageTheEarth

So it looks like I've ran into a problem already. I measured the length between the two holes on my res/pump top bracket and it's around 55mm. The case only has support for 35.75mm and 71.50mm res mount spacing.



If I take that bracket off, it will fit perfectly on the pump mount that comes with the case... but because it's a pump/res combo it's too tall to fit back there near the PSU. There is another location you can put the pump mount, but I will have a 360mm radiator there. I've measured and the pump\res combo stands 7.5 inches tall. I've decided to give up my CD drive and I've come up with an idea of how to mount the pump bracket in the 5.25 bay area.

With the help of some screws, washers, and nuts it fits perfectly and there is 10" of free space above it.




I'm going to be using a 420mm radiator up top so here is the view down inside. I'll be able to fill up the res very easily from the top of the case just by popping off the top dust filter since there is a clear view inside.



I thought about how the loop will differ with this setup and it will actually be a lot neater now.

This is fun!!


----------



## doyll

@RavageTheEarth
May I suggest not removing the serial number, or if you do to put it back on somewhere else. I have not had to do any Phanteks case warranty claims, but other companies have asked for the serial number. It is sometimes needed for them to know exactly what replacement parts they need to send based on model production changes. .


----------



## pez

So, I don't know many hear with the Pro M, and especially not many with the Pro M Acrylic, but Phanteks finally got back to me about the Tempered Glass panel:
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *me*
> Greetings Phanteks,
> 
> I know you guys are currently busy with unveiling new products/Computex 2016, but I wanted to try and find out further info about the Enthoo Pro M Tempered Glass version. Will this version retain the same mounting holes as the Acrylic Edition? Will the TG side panel be available for purchase separately?
> 
> Thanks,
> Chris


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phanteks*
> Chris,
> 
> Yes the glass panel will use the same mounting system. We will offer upgrade panels at a later date.


I've also followed up to see if they can at least give me an ETA...hopefully Q3-to-early-Q4 so I can throw it on my list for Santa







.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> @RavageTheEarth
> May I suggest not removing the serial number, or if you do to put it back on somewhere else. I have not had to do any Phanteks case warranty claims, but other companies have asked for the serial number. It is sometimes needed for them to know exactly what replacement parts they need to send based on model production changes. .


For my case, I actually ensured my S/N was somewhere else (I want to say mine is on the actual box as well) before removing it. I will double check when I am home.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> So it looks like I've ran into a problem already. I measured the length between the two holes on my res/pump top bracket and it's around 55mm. The case only has support for 35.75mm and 71.50mm res mount spacing.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If I take that bracket off, it will fit perfectly on the pump mount that comes with the case... but because it's a pump/res combo it's too tall to fit back there near the PSU. There is another location you can put the pump mount, but I will have a 360mm radiator there. I've measured and the pump\res combo stands 7.5 inches tall. I've decided to give up my CD drive and I've come up with an idea of how to mount the pump bracket in the 5.25 bay area.
> 
> With the help of some screws, washers, and nuts it fits perfectly and there is 10" of free space above it.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm going to be using a 420mm radiator up top so here is the view down inside. I'll be able to fill up the res very easily from the top of the case just by popping off the top dust filter since there is a clear view inside.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I thought about how the loop will differ with this setup and it will actually be a lot neater now.
> 
> This is fun!!


Nice!


----------



## dlewbell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> @RavageTheEarth
> May I suggest not removing the serial number, or if you do to put it back on somewhere else. I have not had to do any Phanteks case warranty claims, but other companies have asked for the serial number. It is sometimes needed for them to know exactly what replacement parts they need to send based on model production changes. .


He also has a pretty good picture of his serial number now, assuming it doesn't get deleted.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> Yeah the hours are flying by messing with this thing! Wish my radiators were here already so I could put them in! I have heard about the side windows scratching easily and deep down I knew that I should have kept the plastic on, but I couldn't help myself. Peeling that stuff off is the best feeling!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I wrapped it up in a towel and set it off to the side so it should be fine.
> 
> The case is looking really good. Everything is intact and no broken pieces anywhere. Paint looks really even too. Looks like I got a good one!


some time ago I i posted some shots of my primo and the few minor flaws I found with it but I'm a very happy camper all things considered


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dlewbell*
> 
> He also has a pretty good picture of his serial number now, assuming it doesn't get deleted.


And it can be found when needed. Proverbial needle in a haystack. Every try to find something as specific as a serial number in a picture that was posted a couple years ago?








You could spend weeks searching and not find it.

For me if removed I would carefully peal it off and put it on the bottom or neatly in corner of cable management area.


----------



## pez

Or put it on your booklet! I always save photos like that, specifically label them, and then put them in my Dropbox as well







.


----------



## greg1184

Is there a clear window alternative to the enthoo primo side panel without changing the window pattern?


----------



## nycgtr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *greg1184*
> 
> Is there a clear window alternative to the enthoo primo side panel without changing the window pattern?


mnpc tech 120 shipped. Go look for it. Cant link atm


----------



## CalinTM

Hello guys, i have a problem with my phanteks evolv atx tempered glass case. I can't get the case fans to start. I've connected both SATA cables from that fan hub, but the fans aren't working..

I've uploaded a picture.

20160602_185213.jpg 1794k .jpg file


----------



## dlewbell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CalinTM*
> 
> Hello guys, i have a problem with my phanteks evolv atx tempered glass case. I can't get the case fans to start. I've connected both SATA cables from that fan hub, but the fans aren't working..
> 
> I've uploaded a picture.
> 
> 20160602_185213.jpg 1794k .jpg file


I believe you need the fan hub connected to a fan port on your motherboard (or elsewhere) to make it work. I tried mine the same way without luck.


----------



## CalinTM

What ? Can u be more precise ?


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CalinTM*
> 
> What ? Can u be more precise ?


There is a fan connector that comes off of the fan controller. You need to plug that in to the cpu fan header on your motherboard to get it to work.


----------



## MR-e

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pez*
> 
> So, I don't know many hear with the Pro M, and especially not many with the Pro M Acrylic, but Phanteks finally got back to me about the Tempered Glass panel:
> 
> I've also followed up to see if they can at least give me an ETA...hopefully Q3-to-early-Q4 so I can throw it on my list for Santa
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


Nice work Pez!

Do you guys think the new Enthoo Pro M TG will have a revised front panel with a new intake filter? The current one still has gaping holes everywhere to let dust in


----------



## CalinTM

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> There is a fan connector that comes off of the fan controller. You need to plug that in to the cpu fan header on your motherboard to get it to work.


That 4 pin connector, from the hub no ? Lool. Well i have a 4pin splitter to connect my two fans, from the CPU.

How im gonna put another 4 pin cable ?

Can i connect that 4 pin cable to a 3 pin or whatever ? Or can i connect that 4 pin from the hub, to a molex cable ?


----------



## CalinTM

Tried this.

I've used another splitter of two 4 pin connectors, to connect that 4 pin pwm hub into the CPU fan header in the motherboard.

So basically i have two splitters of 2, 4 pin connectors, to connect my both CPU fans, and that 4pin that makes the case fans to work.

I also have another 4pin header on the mother board, sys fan 1. Tried to plug the cable there, doesnt work.

It only wants to work plugged into the CPU header.

Any other trick to make it work ?? And still be able to use my CPU fans ?


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CalinTM*
> 
> Tried this.
> 
> I've used another splitter of two 4 pin connectors, to connect that 4 pin pwm hub into the CPU fan header in the motherboard.
> 
> So basically i have two splitters of 2, 4 pin connectors, to connect my both CPU fans, and that 4pin that makes the case fans to work.
> 
> I also have another 4pin header on the mother board, sys fan 1. Tried to plug the cable there, doesnt work.
> 
> It only wants to work plugged into the CPU header.
> 
> Any other trick to make it work ?? And still be able to use my CPU fans ?


What MB are you using?


----------



## nycgtr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> So it looks like I've ran into a problem already. I measured the length between the two holes on my res/pump top bracket and it's around 55mm. The case only has support for 35.75mm and 71.50mm res mount spacing.
> 
> 
> 
> If I take that bracket off, it will fit perfectly on the pump mount that comes with the case... but because it's a pump/res combo it's too tall to fit back there near the PSU. There is another location you can put the pump mount, but I will have a 360mm radiator there. I've measured and the pump\res combo stands 7.5 inches tall. I've decided to give up my CD drive and I've come up with an idea of how to mount the pump bracket in the 5.25 bay area.
> 
> With the help of some screws, washers, and nuts it fits perfectly and there is 10" of free space above it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm going to be using a 420mm radiator up top so here is the view down inside. I'll be able to fill up the res very easily from the top of the case just by popping off the top dust filter since there is a clear view inside.
> 
> 
> 
> I thought about how the loop will differ with this setup and it will actually be a lot neater now.
> 
> This is fun!!


I just did a primo build in the last 2 weeks. The Ek x res your holding I have it as well. I totally passed on using it for this build (too much hassle to fit it in and keep a clean look) and went out and got a revo d5 ek with a bitspower 250mm res. Trust me it's the better way to go. Your gonna need a fan controller if you plan on really filling this case up. The built in fan controller is garbage, so I wouldn't give up the bays completely if I were you. Also, putting it where u want makes filling a pain to me at least.

If your bent on using it. Here's an option I had considered


----------



## RavageTheEarth

@nycgtr I'm surprised to hear you say that the on board fan controller isn't good? Why do you say that?


----------



## RavageTheEarth

So stupid me didn't think out the pump/res mounting plan too well. It would have worked great.... if there wasn't the huge MCP655 below the mounting holes.



So I've decided to attempt to drill holes on the pump/res bracket to allow it to fit perfectly with the cases res mounting points.



The two dots on the bracket are where I'm going to be drilling. Not sure why EK wouldn't include these holes to begin with since they seem pretty universal.

*EDIT*

So after drilling the holes I rigged it up on the reservoir bracket next to the motherboard. It is CLOSE to the graphics card, but it does work. I'm going to think of some other mounting points, but this might be it. I'm also getting a 120mm EK Uni-Bracket tomorrow so that will give me the option of mounting this to a 120mm fan on one of the radiators.




EDIT 2: I really am not liking how it looks with the res/pump next to the motherboard. Looks very cramped, So I grabbed some longer screws and tried my bay idea again. It does look a little "ghetto", but It won't be in sight when the case is closed up. Still going to keep trying new placement ideas and see what I come up with.


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Alright so now I'm confused. The molex for the case LED strip is a female? What in the world do I plug this into since the PSU molex cables are female. Any help here? Am I missing something obvious or did they attach the wrong connector to the case?


----------



## nycgtr

The led connector is a molex powered bridge. One side is female one side is male, as to not take an entire molex connection out. It will just bridge between molex connections. As for the fan controller, it doesn't work for a damn. I had mine connected to my cpu pwm header and I connected the addtional power to it but it would not do more than like 2 fans or if it did it wouldn't set the same rpm across. I might have just gotten a crappy one but also it's positioning requires the use of fan extensions if you have fans in the front or possibly in the bottom or if you have a 420 on top the further 2 fans. So I had tried to use a swiftech pwm controller in it's place which apparenty has issues with corsair fans lol. Ended up just digging out my lamptron and sticking with that. I have 9 fans in my system and while I do have multiple pwm headers (x99 extreme) but tbh when you have that much rad space these fans barely need to spin. I have a 420 on top, 280 on the bottom and a 240 in the front. I still suggest you get a separate pump and res, it will look a lot cleaner. In such a huge case it's silly to give up bay drive areas (also can be used for hard drives, for my my front thick rad took that hd cage option out). Also keeping that area empty has allowed me to hide all my lighting controls there.

The included res bracket is great, However, the only down fall is the limitation to 10.6 inch length cards. Which is a slight bummer but not a deal breaker for the most part for a water cooler.


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nycgtr*
> 
> The led connector is a molex powered bridge. One side is female one side is male, as to not take an entire molex connection out. It will just bridge between molex connections. As for the fan controller, it doesn't work for a damn. I had mine connected to my cpu pwm header and I connected the addtional power to it but it would not do more than like 2 fans or if it did it wouldn't set the same rpm across. I might have just gotten a crappy one but also it's positioning requires the use of fan extensions if you have fans in the front or possibly in the bottom or if you have a 420 on top the further 2 fans. So I had tried to use a swiftech pwm controller in it's place which apparenty has issues with corsair fans lol. Ended up just digging out my lamptron and sticking with that. I have 9 fans in my system and while I do have multiple pwm headers (x99 extreme) but tbh when you have that much rad space these fans barely need to spin. I have a 420 on top, 280 on the bottom and a 240 in the front. I still suggest you get a separate pump and res, it will look a lot cleaner. In such a huge case it's silly to give up bay drive areas (also can be used for hard drives, for my my front thick rad took that hd cage option out). Also keeping that area empty has allowed me to hide all my lighting controls there.
> 
> The included res bracket is great, However, the only down fall is the limitation to 10.6 inch length cards. Which is a slight bummer but not a deal breaker for the most part for a water cooler.


I'm not really understanding how this bridge connector works. Are you saying that this one molex in the picture I took is a bridge? I am seeing a 12v SATA connector. Can I just plug this male led strip molex into my female pump molex and that will power the pump?

As for the res, I have the rest of my parts coming in tomorrow and I'm without a PC until I get this running so for now I'll use the EK X-res, but I'm sure I'll pick up a standalone res at some point since I already have an EK Pump Top laying around.


----------



## nycgtr

Okay let me rephrase as I was completely off in wording.



So notice one end is female and one is male. This goes into one side. I guess I happen to have a device that has this in my build so I didn't notice it.

Okay I looked into it and yours was just installed backwards lol



I also read that is only needed for addtional leds.

https://forums.overclockers.co.uk/showthread.php?t=18566507


----------



## pez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sexpot*
> 
> Nice work Pez!
> 
> Do you guys think the new Enthoo Pro M TG will have a revised front panel with a new intake filter? The current one still has gaping holes everywhere to let dust in


Do you have a regulars Pro M? As non Acrylic or TG? I was very surprised to find that my Pro M Acrylic did have mesh added for dust catching







. I'll post my pic from before below.

Not having the dust filter in the side slats was my biggest con for the case, but decided it was a reasonable and fixable compromise. However, it looks like they added this silently in the Acrylic version







.



EDIT: I double checked and it looks like the only opening is at the very bottom, but then again I'm not sure if that space is even necessarily open enough to effect it that much. The side slats/vents were my biggest con, but as you can see that was addressed.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CalinTM*
> 
> Tried this.
> 
> I've used another splitter of two 4 pin connectors, to connect that 4 pin pwm hub into the CPU fan header in the motherboard.
> 
> So basically i have two splitters of 2, 4 pin connectors, to connect my both CPU fans, and that 4pin that makes the case fans to work.
> 
> I also have another 4pin header on the mother board, sys fan 1. Tried to plug the cable there, doesnt work.
> 
> It only wants to work plugged into the CPU header.
> 
> Any other trick to make it work ?? And still be able to use my CPU fans ?


The splitter solution actually is what I'm using in the Mini ITX I just finished up. Im only running 2 CPU fans and one intake and that works ok, but I can't remember what the max/rule of thumb is for that.

Have you considered the Phanteks PWM hub/controller? I used it in my Pro M build and it's worked like a charm!


----------



## tongerks

got my evolv matx last night.


----------



## pez

Very nice! Will you be posting pics of the completed build?


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nycgtr*
> 
> Okay let me rephrase as I was completely off in wording.
> 
> So notice one end is female and one is male. This goes into one side. I guess I happen to have a device that has this in my build so I didn't notice it.
> 
> Okay I looked into it and yours was just installed backwards lol
> 
> I also read that is only needed for addtional leds.
> 
> https://forums.overclockers.co.uk/showthread.php?t=18566507


Fantastic thank you! So this is for extra optional lighting.

*********

So now I'm suffering through work today knowing I'm going to have two big boxes of water cooling stuff waiting for me when I get home which means I get to finish the build tonight. I can't wait!


----------



## MR-e

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pez*
> 
> Do you have a regulars Pro M? As non Acrylic or TG? I was very surprised to find that my Pro M Acrylic did have mesh added for dust catching
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . I'll post my pic from before below.
> 
> Not having the dust filter in the side slats was my biggest con for the case, but decided it was a reasonable and fixable compromise. However, it looks like they added this silently in the Acrylic version
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT: I double checked and it looks like the only opening is at the very bottom, but then again I'm not sure if that space is even necessarily open enough to effect it that much. The side slats/vents were my biggest con, but as you can see that was addressed.


Nice, good to see the side vents were addressed with the Pro M Acrylic. No, I don't have a Pro M. It was on my short list back when I was shopping cases though. The filters were a deal breaker for me at the time. Funny though, cause the case I ended up with was a filterless one haha


----------



## pez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sexpot*
> 
> Nice, good to see the side vents were addressed with the Pro M Acrylic. No, I don't have a Pro M. It was on my short list back when I was shopping cases though. The filters were a deal breaker for me at the time. Funny though, cause the case I ended up with was a filterless one haha


Ah, I see you went with a CaseLabs case, so I don't think you made a bad decision







. Plus you can always address the filter situation







. I really enjoy Phanteks' cases so far after two builds in two different ones.

Pics incoming soonish for the second build







.

Wife's build pics (featuring the Enthoo Evolv ITX):
(Full Album):


http://imgur.com/Ahuoi


(Teaser):


----------



## Arulan

I plan to build soon and could use some advice on the fan setup.

I'll be using a Enthoo Primo case with a Asus x99-Deluxe II MB, and a Phanteks PH-TC14PE for my CPU cooler. As for fan placement, I'm planning to do 3x top intake, 2x bottom intake, 2x front intake, and 1x top rear exhaust. The front and bottom both have filters. Thoughts?

Secondly, I'm uncertain as to the best way to control the fans. The case comes with a PWM hub, that can supposedly handle up to 11 fans. The MB also comes with a fan extension card with 3 headers. Then of course the headers on the MB itself. I've heard mixed reports on the Phanteks PWM hub. Can anyone give first-hand advice on it? Is it safe to use that many fans on the PWM hub without risk of blowing out your header? I'll be using 8 case fans (3 pin), and 2 (4 pin) on the CPU cooler. How would you set it up?

Thanks.


----------



## pez

I know the one I bought as an extra uses SATA power, so that way it draws only the PWM signal from the mobo, but uses SATA for the actual power







. I imagine the Primo is like this, but I believe doyll would have to confirm. Same goes for the fan setup; doyll and ciarlatano are your guys







.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Arulan*
> 
> I plan to build soon and could use some advice on the fan setup.
> 
> I'll be using a Enthoo Primo case with a Asus x99-Deluxe II MB, and a Phanteks PH-TC14PE for my CPU cooler. As for fan placement, I'm planning to do 3x top intake, 2x bottom intake, 2x front intake, and 1x top rear exhaust. The front and bottom both have filters. Thoughts?


The first thought........."that build is going to look entirely lost in that giant case specifically made for liquid cooling".
The second thought....."not every fan space *needs* to be filled, some do more harm than good, and there is way too much intake to exhaust....like, *WAY* too much intake to get any kind of air_flow_, just going to be a bunch of air_blow_".

Frankly, your fan plan is bad. Really bad. Cooling works by having a flow of cooler air moving through the case freely. The more this happens, the lower the in case temps will be. Your setup doesn't flow at all, and will be far more noisy than it needs to be. You would likely get far better performance losing the top fans entirely.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Arulan*
> 
> Secondly, I'm uncertain as to the best way to control the fans. The case comes with a PWM hub, that can supposedly handle up to 11 fans. The MB also comes with a fan extension card with 3 headers. Then of course the headers on the MB itself. I've heard mixed reports on the Phanteks PWM hub. Can anyone give first-hand advice on it? Is it safe to use that many fans on the PWM hub without risk of blowing out your header? I'll be using 8 case fans (3 pin), and 2 (4 pin) on the CPU cooler. How would you set it up?
> 
> Thanks.


Well....again, you have too many fans for the build...so......
But, would handle all of the case fans without a problem. Connect to a chassis header and be sure to enable PWM on the header in BIOS. Run the CPU fans off the CPU header.


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Slowly coming together!


----------



## Faster_is_better

I saw you were looking for drain ideas, Here is how my drain is setup, works super slick.



Bottom rad is an alphacool UT60

Uses a 90 fitting (with rotary on 1 end that goes into the rad) then into a short male to male extender into a bitspower mini ball valve. I have to remove the valve handle to tuck it in there, but that's easy to put on when I need to.

It actually swivels out and clears everything, i can attach a hose to the valve open up and drain.

This might not clear with regular fans, but does because I'm using 38mm thick fans on bottom + some gaskets and stuff...


----------



## Arulan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> The first thought........."that build is going to look entirely lost in that giant case specifically made for liquid cooling".
> The second thought....."not every fan space *needs* to be filled, some do more harm than good, and there is way too much intake to exhaust....like, *WAY* too much intake to get any kind of air_flow_, just going to be a bunch of air_blow_".
> 
> Frankly, your fan plan is bad. Really bad. Cooling works by having a flow of cooler air moving through the case freely. The more this happens, the lower the in case temps will be. Your setup doesn't flow at all, and will be far more noisy than it needs to be. You would likely get far better performance losing the top fans entirely.
> Well....again, you have too many fans for the build...so......
> But, would handle all of the case fans without a problem. Connect to a chassis header and be sure to enable PWM on the header in BIOS. Run the CPU fans off the CPU header.


I appreciate the advice.

The number of fans I'll use is still flexible. I had just decided on using 8 under my previous assumption that a lot of positive pressure might be beneficial given the filters and fairly open back of the Primo. What would you recommend then for optimal fan setup? Just removing the top fans, or something else?


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Faster_is_better*
> 
> I saw you were looking for drain ideas, Here is how my drain is setup, works super slick.
> 
> 
> 
> Bottom rad is an alphacool UT60
> 
> Uses a 90 fitting (with rotary on 1 end that goes into the rad) then into a short male to male extender into a bitspower mini ball valve. I have to remove the valve handle to tuck it in there, but that's easy to put on when I need to.
> 
> It actually swivels out and clears everything, i can attach a hose to the valve open up and drain.
> 
> This might not clear with regular fans, but does because I'm using 38mm thick fans on bottom + some gaskets and stuff...


Thanks for the advice! I was actually planning on putting my drain on the bottom radiator. I was having an issue with the screws for the 38mm rads being too long so I had to put the 38mm fans on top of the radiator to allow me to use washers. I should have gotten some 90 degree fittings! Major overlook on my part. I'll just run a piece of tubing off the bottom rad to the drain port so I can hang it out of the case when I drain.

Here's where I'm at now. I had to resort to mount the res/pump next to the motherboard. Loving the look of the flat black tubing!


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Arulan*
> 
> I plan to build soon and could use some advice on the fan setup.
> 
> I'll be using a Enthoo Primo case with a Asus x99-Deluxe II MB, and a Phanteks PH-TC14PE for my CPU cooler. As for fan placement, I'm planning to do 3x top intake, 2x bottom intake, 2x front intake, and 1x top rear exhaust. The front and bottom both have filters. Thoughts?
> 
> Secondly, I'm uncertain as to the best way to control the fans. The case comes with a PWM hub, that can supposedly handle up to 11 fans. The MB also comes with a fan extension card with 3 headers. Then of course the headers on the MB itself. I've heard mixed reports on the Phanteks PWM hub. Can anyone give first-hand advice on it? Is it safe to use that many fans on the PWM hub without risk of blowing out your header? I'll be using 8 case fans (3 pin), and 2 (4 pin) on the CPU cooler. How would you set it up?
> 
> Thanks.


As ciarlatano said, you don't need a huge case for your build, but I did a similar build in my Primo.








The fans that come with the case are all you need Give 5th post a read in "Ways to Better Cooling": link in my sig. 1st post is index, click on topic to see it. Post 21 is what happens when an intake and exhaust fans are side by side like your top ones.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Arulan*
> 
> I appreciate the advice.
> 
> The number of fans I'll use is still flexible. I had just decided on using 8 under my previous assumption that a lot of positive pressure might be beneficial given the filters and fairly open back of the Primo. What would you recommend then for optimal fan setup? Just removing the top fans, or something else?


Forget 'positive pressure' and think 'positive airflow'. Air goes where it's pushed / pulled. Having slightly more intake airflow potential than exhasut airflow potential means the intake pushes a little harder than the exhaust pulls so to balance the intake and exhaust flow the littel extra intake leaks out other holes in case.

But the maximum overall flow of a case is the the lessor of intake and exhaust potential. A case will only flow as much air in as it can flow out .. or .. a case will only flow out as much air as it can flow in.

Think of the case and it's vents as a water tank with a bunch of pipes running water in and a bunch of pipes running what out. When the tank is full the only time water runs in is when water is running out, and the only time water runs out is when water is running in. If we have 5 pipes trying to push water into the tank and only 2 pipes letting water out, the maximum amount of water the 5 pipes in can flow is only as much as the 2 pipes out are flow. The opposite is also true; 5 pipes flowing water out can only flow as much a 2 pipes flow in.

What goes in must come out .. / .. what goes out must come in.


----------



## haszek

Here's my setup with phanteks evolv atx;] first time watercooling so probably few things that can be corrected (previously corsair 110GT).

Initially I bought EK 360 performance kit, added 280CE to the front (kept phanteks 140 fans) and waiting for some decent new graphic card or two...(maybe 1080, but still thinking...not big enough jump for me from 980ti considering the price £650, but we'll see )


----------



## RavageTheEarth

@haszek that looks really good especially for your first time watercooling! Congrats and welcome to the club! You'll never go back









So I finished my build and everything is up and running. Very happy with how it came out. I managed to fit a bottom UT60 360mm, front ST30 240mm, and top XT45 420mm quite easily. The case allows for a lot of sneaky tubing routing.

Sorry for the crappy pics. My camera needs an upgrade next.

So I took the outlet of the CPU and routed it under the reservoir bracket and into the 5.25 bays and into the 420mm rad. I was then able to do a straight run down through a hole in the bays to the bottom 360mm rad.




Here you see the tubing coming down from the bays. I'm then able to bounce up to the front 240mm rad and then do a short run back to the pump. You can also see the drain coming out of the bottom 360mm rad. When I want to drain I'll just take the back panel off and swing the tubing out of the case.



Here is the finished product. I tried getting a picture with the side panel on, but there were too many reflections in the glass.



I've never used PWM controlled radiator fans before, but I'm loving it. The onboard fan controller works perfectly and the case is almost completely silent.


----------



## haszek

thanks!

I could never setup fans with this board (I could control them through the software but then after PC restart I had to do everything all over again). I felt like old asrock had it better sorted out.

In the end I bought nzxt grid v2 and it's way better than onboard fan solution or phanteks hub


----------



## Arulan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> As ciarlatano said, you don't need a huge case for your build, but I did a similar build in my Primo.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The fans that come with the case are all you need Give 5th post a read in "Ways to Better Cooling": link in my sig. 1st post is index, click on topic to see it. Post 21 is what happens when an intake and exhaust fans are side by side like your top ones.
> For get 'positive pressure' and think 'positive airflow'. Air goes where it's pushed / pulled. Having slightly more intake airflow potential than exhasut airflow potential means the intake pushes a little harder than the exhaust pulls so to balance the intake and exhaust flow the littel extra intake leaks out other holes in case.
> 
> But the maximum overall flow of a case is the the lessor of intake and exhaust potential. A case will only flow as much air in as it can flow out .. or .. a case will only flow out as much air as it can flow in.
> 
> Think of the case and it's vents as a water tank with a bunch of pipes running water in and a bunch of pipes running what out. When the tank is full the only time water runs in is when water is running out, and the only time water runs out is when water is running in. If we have 5 pipes trying to push water into the tank and only 2 pipes letting water out, the maximum amount of water the 5 pipes in can flow is only as much as the 2 pipes out are flow. The opposite is also true; 5 pipes flowing water out can only flow as much a 2 pipes flow in.
> 
> What goes in must come out .. / .. what goes out must come in.


Much appreciated. The links in your sig are certainly useful as well.


----------



## RavageTheEarth

So something strange happened with the onboard fan controller. I was playing the Witcher 3 and after I exited I looked at the temps and they were much higher than usual. My rads were warm to the touch. All but a couple of the fans weren't working. So I put in my Phobya fan controller. I only have 3 fans plugged into the onboard fan controller now and they are working fine. So strange.


----------



## kse617

Possible future Evolv ATX owner here









With the recent trend of getting rid of 5.25" bays, I'm having a hard time finding a place for my trusted Aquaero 6 Pro. I found out the Evolv ATX has a possible place for a mod I'm thinking of, but I'd need some kind advice from you guys, especially current owners.

I was thinking about cutting out a 5.25" bay out in the place where the bottom front-facing SSD fits. I won't need any rails or anything so that's taken care of, but I'm not sure about the following:
1. the bottom hard drive cage can be easily removed (i.e. screws and not rivets) without breaking the structural integrity of the case
2. once removed, if there's enough clearance behind the PSU compartment "wall" to fit the Aquaero plus cables (around 6-7cm would be enough) and without breaking anything

Dremeling is expected so I'm OK with that as long as I don't weaken the structure. I can't seem to upload any pictures to clarify tho. If everything goes right, a black Aquaero with red LCD and overall LED lighting might even look nice









Thanks in advance guys!


----------



## Chopper1591

Hello fellow OC'er









I am looking to upgrade my case so that I can actually fit all my stuff inside the case. Currently I have a UT60 360 radiator on top of my Corsair 650D, and the pump is also mounted outside of the case.
I did consider the Thermaltake Core x9 but it is somewhat too deep for my desk to fit it on and build quality is probably also a lot lower. One should go all the way and go for a Caselabs S8 if they want a cube case IMO. Did my homework and kind of narrowed my choice down to:

Enthoo Primo
Enthoo Luxe
Anyway...
Like I said: I want all my stuff inside the chassis. I currently have a loop of: UT60 120.3, EK XTC 140.1, Supremacy Evo cpu and EK 290(x) block. Pump (d5) is currently attached to a EK-Xres d5 top 140mm.

Alright, those are the parts.
The thing that concerns me is: will the reservoir/pump top fit on the reservoir bracket of the Primo? I guess my Sapphire r9 290 tri-x is the same length as a reference card (since it is watercooled and thus shorter?

It actually looks like the Enthoo Luxe has more space for a reservoir compared to the Primo:

Primo: *277mm* (reservoir bracket installed w/o cover)
Luxe: *338mm* minus reservoir diameter (reservoir bracket installed). So 338 minus tube res (most are 60) = *278mm*
You can think, what is 1mm. Well it shouldn't be the first time that something didn't fit for such a small difference.








Bit-Tech tells the r9 290 reference is *278mm*.

Overal I think the Primo is a much better case: heavier, more clearance behind the motherboard for cables, far more radiator space etc etc.

What do you guys think I should do?
If necessary I can sell my current EK-Xres top and go separate again (buy a d5 top and separate reservoir.
This will also be more silent I guess? With the pump sitting on the pump mount.

I would like to go with the Primo so I can sell my 140.1 rad and buy a 14.3 to use besides my UT60 120.3. Letting me turn down all fans while still have enough cooling for my cpu and gpu.


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> Hello fellow OC'er
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I am looking to upgrade my case so that I can actually fit all my stuff inside the case. Currently I have a UT60 360 radiator on top of my Corsair 650D, and the pump is also mounted outside of the case.
> I did consider the Thermaltake Core x9 but it is somewhat too deep for my desk to fit it on and build quality is probably also a lot lower. One should go all the way and go for a Caselabs S8 if they want a cube case IMO. Did my homework and kind of narrowed my choice down to:
> 
> Enthoo Primo
> Enthoo Luxe
> Anyway...
> Like I said: I want all my stuff inside the chassis. I currently have a loop of: UT60 120.3, EK XTC 140.1, Supremacy Evo cpu and EK 290(x) block. Pump (d5) is currently attached to a EK-Xres d5 top 140mm.
> 
> Alright, those are the parts.
> The thing that concerns me is: will the reservoir/pump top fit on the reservoir bracket of the Primo? I guess my Sapphire r9 290 tri-x is the same length as a reference card (since it is watercooled and thus shorter?
> 
> It actually looks like the Enthoo Luxe has more space for a reservoir compared to the Primo:
> 
> Primo: *277mm* (reservoir bracket installed w/o cover)
> Luxe: *338mm* minus reservoir diameter (reservoir bracket installed). So 338 minus tube res (most are 60) = *278mm*
> You can think, what is 1mm. Well it shouldn't be the first time that something didn't fit for such a small difference.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bit-Tech tells the r9 290 reference is *278mm*.
> 
> Overal I think the Primo is a much better case: heavier, more clearance behind the motherboard for cables, far more radiator space etc etc.
> 
> What do you guys think I should do?
> If necessary I can sell my current EK-Xres top and go separate again (buy a d5 top and separate reservoir.
> This will also be more silent I guess? With the pump sitting on the pump mount.
> 
> I would like to go with the Primo so I can sell my 140.1 rad and buy a 14.3 to use besides my UT60 120.3. Letting me turn down all fans while still have enough cooling for my cpu and gpu.


I believe I can help with this question since I just went through this a couple days ago. The EK X-Res 140 bracket does not match up to any of the reservoir mounts in the case. If you want it to fit you are going to have to drill holes in the bracket to match up with the case like I did. Just take the reservoir bracket off the case, place it over the x-res bracket and take a sharpie and mark the two holes that need to be drilled out.



Just a heads up, my x-res is extremely close to the graphics card on the reservoir bracket next to the motherboard. This was really my only option for mounting because I am using a UT60 360mm on the bottom, an ST30 240mm on the front, and an XT45 420mm radiator up top.



Another option is to buy an EK-UNI Pump Bracket which screws into a 120mm fan and will fit on the x-res bracket without any drilling. It will need to be placed on a vertical fan bracket though for the x-res to be in an upright position. For example, if you take out all the HDD drives you can screw the bracket into one of the front fan mounting points and have the res there.


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> I believe I can help with this question since I just went through this a couple days ago. The EK X-Res 140 bracket does not match up to any of the reservoir mounts in the case. If you want it to fit you are going to have to drill holes in the bracket to match up with the case like I did. Just take the reservoir bracket off the case, place it over the x-res bracket and take a sharpie and mark the two holes that need to be drilled out.
> 
> 
> 
> Just a heads up, my x-res is extremely close to the graphics card on the reservoir bracket next to the motherboard. This was really my only option for mounting because I am using a UT60 360mm on the bottom, an ST30 240mm on the front, and an XT45 420mm radiator up top.
> 
> 
> 
> Another option is to buy an EK-UNI Pump Bracket which screws into a 120mm fan and will fit on the x-res bracket without any drilling. It will need to be placed on a vertical fan bracket though for the x-res to be in an upright position. For example, if you take out all the HDD drives you can screw the bracket into one of the front fan mounting points and have the res there.


Thanks for sharing.
You actually have a very similar setup compared to what I want to get. I want to use my current UT60 120.3 on the bottom and buy a Nemesis 420 to mount up top.

I don't mind drilling some, hehe.
How close is your x-res to the drive bays? I really can't remove all drive cages as I have an SSD (can mount behind mobo) and two WD Blacks for storage. I don't think there is another place to store those.

I can however change to a separate pump and reservoir so I can place the pump on the bracket behind the motherboard. This will leave me with a little more room to mount the reservoir besides the graphics card I guess?

Could you measure the length of your graphics card? I want to know the distance from the inside of the pci-shield to the end of the card.
I mean this:


Edit:
What I can do is use something like this holder, secure that to one of the fans on the UT60 on the bottom and then mount the pump with my Uniholder to that.
Link

Or something like this:


Quick though about loop order gave me these options:


With the pump separate I have more freedom to move both the pump and reservoir to make it fit better.
2 loop orders (yellow and orange).


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> Thanks for sharing.
> You actually have a very similar setup compared to what I want to get. I want to use my current UT60 120.3 on the bottom and buy a Nemesis 420 to mount up top.
> 
> I don't mind drilling some, hehe.
> How close is your x-res to the drive bays? I really can't remove all drive cages as I have an SSD (can mount behind mobo) and two WD Blacks for storage. I don't think there is another place to store those.
> 
> I can however change to a separate pump and reservoir so I can place the pump on the bracket behind the motherboard. This will leave me with a little more room to mount the reservoir besides the graphics card I guess?
> 
> Could you measure the length of your graphics card? I want to know the distance from the inside of the pci-shield to the end of the card.
> I mean this:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Edit:
> What I can do is use something like this holder, secure that to one of the fans on the UT60 on the bottom and then mount the pump with my Uniholder to that.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Link
> 
> 
> 
> Or something like this:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quick though about loop order gave me these options:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the pump separate I have more freedom to move both the pump and reservoir to make it fit better.
> 2 loop orders (yellow and orange).
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Quote:


> How close is your x-res to the drive bays?


There are two sets of removable bays in the case. I've taken them out, but looking at where the X-res ends if should fit fine with both bays in place. The only problem is that you might have trouble routing the tubing like you have in the picture with both bays installed. Maybe you could just use a 5.25 adapter for your HDD's so you can get rid of the HDD bays completely?
Quote:


> Could you measure the length of your graphics card?


From the inside of the PCI bracket to the end of the card is 10.5"

Also, I'd recommend removing the bottom grommet to fit the 360mm UT60 better. There is barely enough space for the rad to fit width-wise. A lot of 360mm rads don't even fit down there because it is so tight. Luckily the Alphacool rads fit.

Here are a couple pics to give you an idea how tight the tube routing is in that HDD bay area in this case. You can also see some scratches from trying to fit the radiator in with the grommets in.


----------



## ITAngel

Which of these two is better for the money. The Enthoo Pro M @ $94 with acrylic window or the Enthoo EVOLV model @ $179?


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ITAngel*
> 
> Which of these two is better for the money. The Enthoo Pro M @ $94 with acrylic window or the Enthoo EVOLV model @ $179?


It depends.. what are you putting in it?


----------



## ITAngel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> It depends.. what are you putting in it?


All I will have is 2 rads 240mm, EK D5 PWN pump that has also the bracket to hold the res on it behind the front 240mm.

Hardware X99 ASUS motherboard, 1x EVGA GTX 980TI with EK 780 Ti block,

I purchased the Core X9 and man this thing is huge and super heavy to move around once is fully loaded so I am returning it and getting a Mid size case. I use to have the Pro M standard and a friend purchase it from me and I do like Phanteks cases more but figure i give the Core X9 a try which is a nightmare to keep the cables in place so it doesn't look messy. Plus I hate not being able to see my hardware such as the CPU block etc...


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ITAngel*
> 
> All I will have is 2 rads 240mm, EK D5 PWN pump that has also the bracket to hold the res on it behind the front 240mm.
> 
> Hardware X99 ASUS motherboard, 1x EVGA GTX 980TI with EK 780 Ti block,
> 
> I purchased the Core X9 and man this thing is huge and super heavy to move around once is fully loaded so I am returning it and getting a Mid size case. I use to have the Pro M standard and a friend purchase it from me and I do like Phanteks cases more but figure i give the Core X9 a try which is a nightmare to keep the cables in place so it doesn't look messy. Plus I hate not being able to see my hardware such as the CPU block etc...


I would just go with the Evolv. I'd recommend the new tempered glass evolv. It's $10 more bucks and looks great, and has RGB lighting which is awesome. It's a beautiful case. Throw a 240 up top and a 240 on the front and call it a day.

I really wish they would revamp the Primo with the features of the Evolv such as the removable top radiator mount and the RGB lighting. Not to mention the lack of 5.25 inch bays which is absolutely awesome if you ask me. I should have drilled out my bays when I was building the case.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811854040


----------



## ITAngel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> I would just go with the Evolv. I'd recommend the new tempered glass evolv. It's $10 more bucks and looks great, and has RGB lighting which is awesome. It's a beautiful case. Throw a 240 up top and a 240 on the front and call it a day.
> 
> I really wish they would revamp the Primo with the features of the Evolv such as the removable top radiator mount and the RGB lighting. Not to mention the lack of 5.25 inch bays which is absolutely awesome if you ask me. I should have drilled out my bays when I was building the case.
> 
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811854040


I see thanks that push me over the budget including shipping and time I need the case. I also do like the standard version so that may be the way I will go. Thanks for the info though.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ITAngel*
> 
> Which of these two is better for the money. The Enthoo Pro M @ $94 with acrylic window or the Enthoo EVOLV model @ $179?


You say Evolv, but do you mean Evolv ATX?
Both sense you said Evolv, both Evolvand Pro M are good.
It's more about how they look and overall sze than performance.
Evolv is mATX and smaller (230 mm x 450 mm x 400 mm) compared to Pro M being ATX (235 mm x 480 mm x 500 mm)
Pro M is better value and better airflow.


----------



## ITAngel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> You say Evolv, but do you mean Evolv ATX?
> Both sense you said Evolv, both Evolvand Pro M are good.
> It's more about how they look and overall sze than performance.
> Evolv is mATX and smaller (230 mm x 450 mm x 400 mm) compared to Pro M being ATX (235 mm x 480 mm x 500 mm)
> Pro M is better value and better airflow.


I see I got the vibe that the pro m was better at airflow versus the others. After thinking about it I don't really show case my case and I am always wanting more performance from my system so I guess once the balance is off you have to choose from aesthetics or performance. Looking at this monster of a case here with 12 fans currently running and two rads on top makes me question whether or not this is that fine line that separates performances from aesthetics.







I am almost considering not returning the case and staying with it. But is huge! lol .... I need to do something about the wiring if I keep it.

On a side note i do like the Pro M and with the full temper glass not bad for the price. Anyways, I guess I have some thinking to do and if I end up keeping the Core X9 then I better keep it for a very long time.


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> There are two sets of removable bays in the case. I've taken them out, but looking at where the X-res ends if should fit fine with both bays in place. The only problem is that you might have trouble routing the tubing like you have in the picture with both bays installed. Maybe you could just use a 5.25 adapter for your HDD's so you can get rid of the HDD bays completely?
> From the inside of the PCI bracket to the end of the card is 10.5"
> 
> Also, I'd recommend removing the bottom grommet to fit the 360mm UT60 better. There is barely enough space for the rad to fit width-wise. A lot of 360mm rads don't even fit down there because it is so tight. Luckily the Alphacool rads fit.
> 
> Here are a couple pics to give you an idea how tight the tube routing is in that HDD bay area in this case. You can also see some scratches from trying to fit the radiator in with the grommets in.


I have thought about using the 5,25 bay for my HDDs. I hope it fits though, I have two drives, a fan controller (single) and a DVR. I can switch to an external dvd if needed.

Its just difficult to measure stuff without actually having the case to measure









With the gromet you mean the bracket to mount fans on?

I plan to mount fans between the case and the radiator so I have slightly shorter tubing.

It looks like routing tubing won't be possible even with only the top hdd cage in place.

I will have to measure my card again but I seriously doubt my x-res will fit next to my r9 290.
I have seen 50mm reservoirs so I might have to go that route.
How much room do you have to spare on either side of your reservoir? By the looks of it I should be able to use some extenders to raise the pump mount a little, this will make it possible to place it in the hdd bay a little. Do you understand what I mean?

As a second option:
How much room do you have to place the pump/res next to the pci slot? Mounted to the rear of the case.


----------



## pez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ITAngel*
> 
> Which of these two is better for the money. The Enthoo Pro M @ $94 with acrylic window or the Enthoo EVOLV model @ $179?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ITAngel*
> 
> I see I got the vibe that the pro m was better at airflow versus the others. After thinking about it I don't really show case my case and I am always wanting more performance from my system so I guess once the balance is off you have to choose from aesthetics or performance. Looking at this monster of a case here with 12 fans currently running and two rads on top makes me question whether or not this is that fine line that separates performances from aesthetics.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I am almost considering not returning the case and staying with it. But is huge! lol .... I need to do something about the wiring if I keep it.
> 
> On a side note i do like the Pro M and with the full temper glass not bad for the price. Anyways, I guess I have some thinking to do and if I end up keeping the Core X9 then I better keep it for a very long time.


Also, there is a Tempered Glass version of the Pro M coming out







. They showed it off at Computex.


----------



## ITAngel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pez*
> 
> Also, there is a Tempered Glass version of the Pro M coming out
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . They showed it off at Computex.


Nice but I need a case soon so I can't wait for it. XD Would be cool to own one but not sure if I got the acrylic version of the temper glass can be replaced on it.


----------



## pez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ITAngel*
> 
> Nice but I need a case soon so I can't wait for it. XD Would be cool to own one but not sure if I got the acrylic version of the temper glass can be replaced on it.


I actually confirmed this with Phanteks support a few days ago. That's actually what I'm planning to do once they release. They said the TG panel will be available for upgrade a couple weeks after release of the TG version







.


----------



## viperguy212

Hey all,

So I plan to pick up a new Evolv ATX glass edition (making the switch from my Luxe) and I want to water cool this one.

I have two possible scenarios planned out that I'd greatly appreciate some feedback on.

Scenario 1:

Top = 240 or 280mm (not thick, 30-45)
Front = 360 (also normal 30-40 thickness)
Relocate my single 3.5" drive to PSU compartment with mount

Scenario 2:

Top = 240 or 280mm (not thick, 30-45)
Front = 240 or 280mm (not thick, 30-45)
Maintain normal 3.5" space

Ideally this will be completed with a 1080 or 1080ti, depending on whenever this is finally completed. I'm not 100% sure as to what kind of tubing to go with just yet.

I've created a mock up of my 1st scenario below:


Any feedback would be greatly appreciated, thanks!


----------



## Faster_is_better

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> So something strange happened with the onboard fan controller. I was playing the Witcher 3 and after I exited I looked at the temps and they were much higher than usual. My rads were warm to the touch. All but a couple of the fans weren't working. So I put in my Phobya fan controller. I only have 3 fans plugged into the onboard fan controller now and they are working fine. So strange.


The Phanteks fan controller is only good for about 30w of draw (total) so maybe you were overloading it?


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *viperguy212*
> 
> Hey all,
> 
> So I plan to pick up a new Evolv ATX glass edition (making the switch from my Luxe) and I want to water cool this one.
> 
> I have two possible scenarios planned out that I'd greatly appreciate some feedback on.
> 
> Scenario 1:
> 
> Top = 240 or 280mm (not thick, 30-45)
> Front = 360 (also normal 30-40 thickness)
> Relocate my single 3.5" drive to PSU compartment with mount
> 
> Scenario 2:
> 
> Top = 240 or 280mm (not thick, 30-45)
> Front = 240 or 280mm (not thick, 30-45)
> Maintain normal 3.5" space
> 
> Ideally this will be completed with a 1080 or 1080ti, depending on whenever this is finally completed. I'm not 100% sure as to what kind of tubing to go with just yet.
> 
> I've created a mock up of my 1st scenario below:
> 
> 
> Any feedback would be greatly appreciated, thanks!


If you are going to do a 360, do it on top. One quirk with the Evolv ATX is the restrictive top combined with the radiator mounting tray - this makes it necessary to seal off the open areas of the tray to isolate the back and front of the rad, otherwise it simply recirculates the air exhausted from the rad. While you can do it with a 240mm or 280mm (self adhesive vibration damping material works well, takes only a few minutes and is inexpensive), it is far easier with a 360mm. Also, the 360mm on top looks far better in the case than a 240 or 280mm up top, while a 240 or 280 look just fine in the front.


----------



## viperguy212

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> If you are going to do a 360, do it on top. One quirk with the Evolv ATX is the restrictive top combined with the radiator mounting tray - this makes it necessary to seal off the open areas of the tray to isolate the back and front of the rad, otherwise it simply recirculates the air exhausted from the rad. While you can do it with a 240mm or 280mm (self adhesive vibration damping material works well, takes only a few minutes and is inexpensive), it is far easier with a 360mm. Also, the 360mm on top looks far better in the case than a 240 or 280mm up top, while a 240 or 280 look just fine in the front.


Thanks for the advice, that is extremely helpful.

I'm looking at Alphacool's Xflow radiators, just to clean up the lines a bit. Revised mock up below as per the recommendation:


Any suggestions for a retailer or brand of that material? Also do you think 45 is a ok thickness? I know we can fit a 60 (top) and a typical ~30 would certainly cut it but I gather a 45 would be the best of both worlds.

Thanks again.


----------



## Chopper1591

Some more info from Primo owners here?

How does a 360 fit in the bottom? I've read that the 3th fan doesn't get proper flow from the bottom. Is a shroud needed?

And can I fit a 420 up top while still using at least 1 5,25 bay? I have a fan controller


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *viperguy212*
> 
> Thanks for the advice, that is extremely helpful.
> 
> I'm looking at Alphacool's Xflow radiators, just to clean up the lines a bit. Revised mock up below as per the recommendation:
> 
> 
> Any suggestions for a retailer or brand of that material? Also do you think 45 is a ok thickness? I know we can fit a 60 (top) and a typical ~30 would certainly cut it but I gather a 45 would be the best of both worlds.
> 
> Thanks again.


This should help you a bit - 



60mm rads with fans overhang the CPU block.

I believe this was the 3M material I used - http://www.amazon.com/3M-38500-19-11-Sound-Reduction/dp/B009XR48MM/


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *viperguy212*
> 
> Thanks for the advice, that is extremely helpful.
> 
> I'm looking at Alphacool's Xflow radiators, just to clean up the lines a bit. Revised mock up below as per the recommendation:
> 
> 
> Any suggestions for a retailer or brand of that material? Also do you think 45 is a ok thickness? I know we can fit a 60 (top) and a typical ~30 would certainly cut it but I gather a 45 would be the best of both worlds.
> 
> Thanks again.


Wow I didn't even know they came out with x-flow radiators! That would have cleaned up the tubing from the cpu to my top rad so much!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> Some more info from Primo owners here?
> 
> How does a 360 fit in the bottom? I've read that the 3th fan doesn't get proper flow from the bottom. Is a shroud needed?
> 
> And can I fit a 420 up top while still using at least 1 5,25 bay? I have a fan controller


I'll get some pics of my 420 up top when I get home. You'll be fine with a fan controller. Surprisingly you should be able to fit a few depending on tube routing.


----------



## RavageTheEarth

@viperguy212

Here are some pics of my 45mm thick Alphacool 420mm with 25 mm thick fans on it. PERFECT length for this case if you ask me. I'm not a big fan of the radiators going past the top of the motherboard look. Plus it requires you to take off the top radiator to remove RAM, remove fan inputs from the CPU headers, remove the 8-pin CPU power connector, etc.




I actually did try sticking my Alphacool 420mm Monsta on the top when I had my motherboard in and it did seem to fit after a lot of PITA twisting and turning. Looked terrible though!


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> @viperguy212
> 
> Here are some pics of my 45mm thick Alphacool 420mm with 25 mm thick fans on it. PERFECT length for this case if you ask me. I'm not a big fan of the radiators going past the top of the motherboard look. Plus it requires you to take off the top radiator to remove RAM, remove fan inputs from the CPU headers, remove the 8-pin CPU power connector, etc.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I actually did try sticking my Alphacool 420mm Monsta on the top when I had my motherboard in and it did seem to fit after a lot of PITA twisting and turning. Looked terrible though!


I think that was actually meant for me. Thanks for sharing. It does look nice indeed.

I am leaning towards buying a hwlabs 420 gts so that should fit easy.

Which gpu do you have in there? Looks a tight fit against the reservoir.


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> I think that was actually meant for me. Thanks for sharing. It does look nice indeed.
> 
> I am leaning towards buying a hwlabs 420 gts so that should fit easy.
> 
> Which gpu do you have in there? Looks a tight fit against the reservoir.


That's a 980 Ti. 10.5" card. The EK X-Res's mounting points don't match up with any of the reservoir mounting points in the case so I had to drill new holes in the bracket. Since I have so many radiators that was the only place I could put it. Believe it or not it doesn't touch the graphics card. Just REALLY close to it. Next time I drain the loop I'm going to drill new holes so I can move the reservoir to the right a little bit.


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> That's a 980 Ti. 10.5" card. The EK X-Res's mounting points don't match up with any of the reservoir mounting points in the case so I had to drill new holes in the bracket. Since I have so many radiators that was the only place I could put it. Believe it or not it doesn't touch the graphics card. Just REALLY close to it. Next time I drain the loop I'm going to drill new holes so I can move the reservoir to the right a little bit.


Thanks.
I will just have to see how tight it will be with my card. Yours is 267mm while mine is 278mm. I guess it will fit haha. Gambling here.

But you didn't have to remove the 5,25" cage to fit the 420? I am looking to buy the gts 420 30mm as it is said to be better than the xt45 with low rpm fans. By reading the roundup on xtremerigs. Its also rather cheap (€89).

I should be fine right?
A UT60 360 and a GTS 420 to cool a fx 8320 @ 4.8ghz with a OCed r9 290.
I aim for silence. Preferably 800-1000 rpm.


----------



## jsc1973

I'll throw a question out since your guys seem to be the experts on this. I've got my rig put together in a very old case, which has done the job fine as I've used it off and on for different builds for years, but now I'm up to four 3.5" drives, an optical drive, a 3.5" memory card reader, multiple expansion cards and a rat's nest of cables which are a PITA to avoid obstructing airflow. I'm about at the point where I'm going to have to bite the bullet and move into a new case.

After looking at everything available right now, a windowless Enthoo Pro looks like something I would be very interested in, but I've never worked with this case myself or even seen one in action. Based on the experiences of the users here who have had it, would it do a good job with the hardware I have, and make it easier for me to work on my computer when needed?


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> Thanks.
> I will just have to see how tight it will be with my card. Yours is 267mm while mine is 278mm. I guess it will fit haha. Gambling here.
> 
> But you didn't have to remove the 5,25" cage to fit the 420? I am looking to buy the gts 420 30mm as it is said to be better than the xt45 with low rpm fans. By reading the roundup on xtremerigs. Its also rather cheap (€89).
> 
> I should be fine right?
> A UT60 360 and a GTS 420 to cool a fx 8320 @ 4.8ghz with a OCed r9 290.
> I aim for silence. Preferably 800-1000 rpm.


Nope the 420mm will fit right inside the 5.25 cages. Depending on your tubing routing you will most likely only be able to fit one or two full size 5.25 devices in there, but you will have no issues with fitting the half length fan controllers in there.

You will be more than fine with that setup. You would be perfectly fine with just the 360mm or 420mm alone for your setup.. but this case is just asking to be filled with rads. That's why I did a 420mm, 360mm, and 240mm for my 6700k and 980 Ti. Wayy overkill, but it's better to put more rads than you need rather than less!


----------



## owcraftsman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> Some more info from Primo owners here?
> 
> How does a 360 fit in the bottom? I've read that the 3th fan doesn't get proper flow from the bottom. Is a shroud needed?
> 
> And can I fit a 420 up top while still using at least 1 5,25 bay? I have a fan controller


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> That's a 980 Ti. 10.5" card. The EK X-Res's mounting points don't match up with any of the reservoir mounting points in the case so I had to drill new holes in the bracket. Since I have so many radiators that was the only place I could put it. Believe it or not it doesn't touch the graphics card. Just REALLY close to it. Next time I drain the loop I'm going to drill new holes so I can move the reservoir to the right a little bit.
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks.
> I will just have to see how tight it will be with my card. Yours is 267mm while mine is 278mm. I guess it will fit haha. Gambling here.
> 
> But you didn't have to remove the 5,25" cage to fit the 420? I am looking to buy the gts 420 30mm as it is said to be better than the xt45 with low rpm fans. By reading the roundup on xtremerigs. Its also rather cheap (€89).
> 
> I should be fine right?
> A UT60 360 and a GTS 420 to cool a fx 8320 @ 4.8ghz with a OCed r9 290.
> I aim for silence. Preferably 800-1000 rpm.
Click to expand...

There is a maximum of 10.5"/266.7mm with a 60mm res on the bracket in a Primo. I highly recommend mounting the res on the rear panel for any GPUs over 267mm in length. I use a 420x60 in push pull and have room for a optical drive and fan controller in the bottom two 5-1/4 bays and it fits easily without any changes to the case. I also highly recommend using a 7mm decoupler between fans and bottom of case for the bottom mounted rads for better airflow and minimize vibration. I use two 120mm fans blowing over dual GPUs mounted on the HDD cage instead of a res there for much better GPU VRM and Mobo Chipset temps.


----------



## .theMetal




----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *.theMetal*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Nice looking Evolv-itx build.


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *.theMetal*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Very nice! That's a pretty sweet case. I've always wanted to do an ITX build.


----------



## .theMetal

Thanks! I'm running with the front cover off. It's extremely restrictive, I'm working on a way to open it up some more. Still the temps are much lower than what they were in the node 304.


----------



## pez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *.theMetal*
> 
> Thanks! I'm running with the front cover off. It's extremely restrictive, I'm working on a way to open it up some more. Still the temps are much lower than what they were in the node 304.


Very nice! I'm loving the case myself. My only suggestion is probably that 2x140 or 3x120 in the front might do you better justice than that 200mm







.


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> Nope the 420mm will fit right inside the 5.25 cages. Depending on your tubing routing you will most likely only be able to fit one or two full size 5.25 devices in there, but you will have no issues with fitting the half length fan controllers in there.
> 
> You will be more than fine with that setup. You would be perfectly fine with just the 360mm or 420mm alone for your setup.. but this case is just asking to be filled with rads. That's why I did a 420mm, 360mm, and 240mm for my 6700k and 980 Ti. Wayy overkill, but it's better to put more rads than you need rather than less!


Alright.

Yeah, I know.
My current is enough to cool everything (360 + 140.1). My cpu is dumping serious amounts of heat into the loop though. I have no way to measure exactly but I'm pretty sure it goes over 200W easy.

But, I want the loop to be rather silent. There is a huge difference in radiator heat dissipation comparing 800-1000 vs 1600-1800 rpm fans. So is the noise.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *owcraftsman*
> 
> There is a maximum of 10.5"/266.7mm with a 60mm res on the bracket in a Primo. I highly recommend mounting the res on the rear panel for any GPUs over 267mm in length. I use a 420x60 in push pull and have room for a optical drive and fan controller in the bottom two 5-1/4 bays and it fits easily without any changes to the case. I also highly recommend using a 7mm decoupler between fans and bottom of case for the bottom mounted rads for better airflow and minimize vibration. I use two 120mm fans blowing over dual GPUs mounted on the HDD cage instead of a res there for much better GPU VRM and Mobo Chipset temps.


Hmm.
So you think I won't manage to fit my res/pump combo next to my gpu? I am perfectly fine modding the reservoir mount a bit.
I can place the pump in front of the gpu (attached to the backpanel of the case) but that will probably force me to use separate pump and reservoir, right?

I will grab some decouplers for the radiator, no problem. Those are cheap.

Do you really need extra airflow over GPUs that are watercooled? That sounds like bs to me. My temps are awesome on the card and will only be better with more rad space. VRMs on my card with a heavy overclock are like 45-50c compared to the 100c (on stock!) with the original air cooler.

What does concern me though, is the cpu socket temp.
I modded my current case to be able to place a fan behind the motherboard blowing fresh air to the back of the socket (lowering my cpu(socket) temp by 10-12c. It's a known thing on these Vishera (amd fx83x0 chips). I don't really feel like cutting up my Phanteks when I do get it.


----------



## dlewbell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jsc1973*
> 
> I'll throw a question out since your guys seem to be the experts on this. I've got my rig put together in a very old case, which has done the job fine as I've used it off and on for different builds for years, but now I'm up to four 3.5" drives, an optical drive, a 3.5" memory card reader, multiple expansion cards and a rat's nest of cables which are a PITA to avoid obstructing airflow. I'm about at the point where I'm going to have to bite the bullet and move into a new case.
> 
> After looking at everything available right now, a windowless Enthoo Pro looks like something I would be very interested in, but I've never worked with this case myself or even seen one in action. Based on the experiences of the users here who have had it, would it do a good job with the hardware I have, and make it easier for me to work on my computer when needed?


You'll need a 3.5" to 5.25" drive bay adapter assuming you don't already have one. The Phanteks cases only have 5.25" external drive bays. Beyond that it will work great. I'm using the Enthoo Luxe, which is basically a more showy Pro with extra height in the top. The space behind the motherboard is great to work in. You can run a pretty large bundle of cables down the center straps without issue. The removable panel in the top can also be really helpful when running wires or installing a CPU cooler. I wouldn't hesitate to buy it.

Here's the inside of mine from both sides, so you can get an idea of what the wiring is like. Mine's not the cleanest ever, but I'm happy with it.


A couple of notes:
My fan controller requires an upside down SATA power cable. As such, I'm running my DVD & HDD on 1 power cable & the Fan controller on another, thus the weird wiring. I'm also running the LED kit on mine, which yours won't have. Cable length forced my hand on the HDD placement.
I have the bottom drive cage removed. You'll need both in there to handle 4 HDDs & 1 SSD unless you mount one HDD in the 5.25" bay & an SSD in a bracket. The 5.25" bays are not drilled for HDDs, so you'll have to do that yourself or use tape/velcro if you want it there.
The front panel USB 3.0 cable is stiff. That's why mine makes such a large loop before going behind the motherboard tray.


----------



## capitalj

Question regarding my Enthoo Luxe and the LED button on the front panel. Lately, when I first boot the PC up, I've noticed that I've got to press it once or twice, then a long hold to turn the LEDs off; of course if I wanted to change colors I'd turn it back on and single presses work fine to cycle through.

My issue is, I don't remember ever having to click it multiple times and then hold, to turn off. Pretty sure I've always been able to just do a single hold to turn off. Unless I've been mistaken? Stupid question, I know lol.


----------



## Chopper1591

@owcraftsman

I could always do this order, when I do mount the pump/res to the backside.



How do you guys think that will look?


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> @owcraftsman
> 
> I could always do this order, when I do mount the pump/res to the backside.
> 
> 
> 
> How do you guys think that will look?


I toyed with the idea of mounting my res there. Just remember to install and tighten down your GPU and any other PCI devices you have there since the reservoir will block access to those PCI bracket screws.


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> I toyed with the idea of mounting my res there. Just remember to install and tighten down your GPU and any other PCI devices you have there since the reservoir will block access to those PCI bracket screws.


Thumbscrews FTW.

But it does suck indeed. Since you can't move anything around anymore after you've placed the reservoir there.
Do you have the Primo? Can you tell me how much space there is next to the pci slots? If I do mount there I have to be able to mount the EK D5 X-res there. If I have to buy a separate reservoir and pump to I might as well buy a slimmer reservoir and just mount it next to the GPU. And then mount the pump either behind the motherboard or at the bottom under my HDDs.

The above picture has the least tubing though. Else I will have something like this:


Or this, with the pump behind the psu cover:

I guess the second option would look worst, right?


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> Thumbscrews FTW.
> 
> But it does suck indeed. Since you can't move anything around anymore after you've placed the reservoir there.
> Do you have the Primo? Can you tell me how much space there is next to the pci slots? If I do mount there I have to be able to mount the EK D5 X-res there. If I have to buy a separate reservoir and pump to I might as well buy a slimmer reservoir and just mount it next to the GPU. And then mount the pump either behind the motherboard or at the bottom under my HDDs.
> 
> The above picture has the least tubing though. Else I will have something like this:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Or this, with the pump behind the psu cover:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I guess the second option would look worst, right?


I do have the Primo. I'm stuck at work for another 5 hours, but when I get home I'll measure for you. I use the X-Res and I remember when I was test fitting it in that area that the pump top portion of the res was hitting the extruding metal around the PCI brackets so it had to be mounted lower.

I did a lot of planning before getting the case, but once I actually had it in my hands everything changed. The best advice I can give you is to buy it and play around from there. I'll measure for you when I get home.


----------



## owcraftsman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> Nope the 420mm will fit right inside the 5.25 cages. Depending on your tubing routing you will most likely only be able to fit one or two full size 5.25 devices in there, but you will have no issues with fitting the half length fan controllers in there.
> 
> You will be more than fine with that setup. You would be perfectly fine with just the 360mm or 420mm alone for your setup.. but this case is just asking to be filled with rads. That's why I did a 420mm, 360mm, and 240mm for my 6700k and 980 Ti. Wayy overkill, but it's better to put more rads than you need rather than less!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Alright.
> 
> Yeah, I know.
> My current is enough to cool everything (360 + 140.1). My cpu is dumping serious amounts of heat into the loop though. I have no way to measure exactly but I'm pretty sure it goes over 200W easy.
> 
> But, I want the loop to be rather silent. There is a huge difference in radiator heat dissipation comparing 800-1000 vs 1600-1800 rpm fans. So is the noise.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *owcraftsman*
> 
> There is a maximum of 10.5"/266.7mm with a 60mm res on the bracket in a Primo. I highly recommend mounting the res on the rear panel for any GPUs over 267mm in length. I use a 420x60 in push pull and have room for a optical drive and fan controller in the bottom two 5-1/4 bays and it fits easily without any changes to the case. I also highly recommend using a 7mm decoupler between fans and bottom of case for the bottom mounted rads for better airflow and minimize vibration. I use two 120mm fans blowing over dual GPUs mounted on the HDD cage instead of a res there for much better GPU VRM and Mobo Chipset temps.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Hmm.
> So you think I won't manage to fit my res/pump combo next to my gpu? I am perfectly fine modding the reservoir mount a bit.
> I can place the pump in front of the gpu (attached to the backpanel of the case) but that will probably force me to use separate pump and reservoir, right?
> 
> I will grab some decouplers for the radiator, no problem. Those are cheap.
> 
> Do you really need extra airflow over GPUs that are watercooled? That sounds like bs to me. My temps are awesome on the card and will only be better with more rad space. VRMs on my card with a heavy overclock are like 45-50c compared to the 100c (on stock!) with the original air cooler.
> 
> What does concern me though, is the cpu socket temp.
> I modded my current case to be able to place a fan behind the motherboard blowing fresh air to the back of the socket (lowering my cpu(socket) temp by 10-12c. It's a known thing on these Vishera (amd fx83x0 chips). I don't really feel like cutting up my Phanteks when I do get it.
Click to expand...

Yes I think fitting a res in there with that size GPU will be problematic.

I pull air in from the bottom which leaves the blades unprotected and to close to the grill on the bottom of the Primo and the res bracket id too small for a 360. I initially installed fans then rad on the bottom with 30mm screws and occasionally I'd hear the blades tapping the case depending on how the case was resting on the feet the decoulplers eliminated that problem and the side benefit is improved air flow.

As a matter of fact all fans except rear top are set to intake for positive pressure. I used to take the PC out to the garage once a month to dust with my air compressor and now maybe every three or 4 months is all I need and it's not very dusty even at that with the positive case pressure but I do still clean the intake filters once a month.

I have 2 290x reference card with backplates all I can say is it's not BS for me I get -4 to -6c on my VRMs with those fans blowing over the cards. In my book that substantial. No I don't have *Empirical evidence* to substantiate the claim nor do I plan to produce it, it's only my personal observation. Backplates can sometime trap heat vs what we think they are designed to do which is dissipate heat. Of course YMMV depending on GPU or who makes the block/backplate but I use EK blocks and back plates and have had the same issues with GTX 680, 980Ti and 290x all had better vrm temps without backplate and the best case scenario was always backplate and active cooling. The only exception to this rule I've found was with a Kryographics Active XCS backplate on a 290x in my Luxe build. All that said you will likely never have an issue with heat from the VRMs however for me it's all about longevity we all know cooler the better.

Regarding the pump and res need to be separate if placed in the rear I have room for dual d5 pumps and a res in my case see image below. I will be adding a second pump with my next build in this case and have already purchased the dual pump top to do it and test fitted. So the answer is no you should not have an issue there and they can stay together.


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> I do have the Primo. I'm stuck at work for another 5 hours, but when I get home I'll measure for you. I use the X-Res and I remember when I was test fitting it in that area that the pump top portion of the res was hitting the extruding metal around the PCI brackets so it had to be mounted lower.
> 
> I did a lot of planning before getting the case, but once I actually had it in my hands everything changed. The best advice I can give you is to buy it and play around from there. I'll measure for you when I get home.


Haha, that is most likely what happens for me to.
It's more that I want to know (as good as possible) what I need beforehand so I can order everything in one go.

I will look forward to your data when you do measure.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *owcraftsman*
> 
> Yes I think fitting a res in there with that size GPU will be problematic.
> 
> I pull air in from the bottom which leaves the blades unprotected and to close to the grill on the bottom of the Primo and the res bracket id too small for a 360. I initially installed fans then rad on the bottom with 30mm screws and occasionally I'd hear the blades tapping the case depending on how the case was resting on the feet the decoulplers eliminated that problem and the side benefit is improved air flow.
> As a matter of fact all fans except rear top are set to intake for positive pressure. I used to take the PC out to the garage once a month to dust with my air compressor and now maybe every three or 4 months is all I need and it's not very dusty even at that with the positive case pressure but I do still clean the intake filters once a month.
> 
> I have 2 290x reference card with backplates all I can say is it's not BS for me I get -4 to -6c on my VRMs with those fans blowing over the cards. In my book that substantial. No I don't have *Empirical evidence*
> to substantiate the claim nor do I plan to produce it, it's only my personal observation. Backplates can sometime trap heat vs what we think they are designed to do which is dissipate heat. Of course YMMV depending on GPU or who makes the block/backplate but I use EK blocks and back plates and have had the same issues with GTX 680, 980Ti and 290x all had better vrm temps without backplate and the best case scenario was always backplate and active cooling. The only exception to this rule I've found was with a Kryographics Active XCS backplate on a 290x in my Luxe build. All that said you will likely never have an issue with heat from the VRMs however for me it's all about longevity we all know cooler the better.
> 
> Regarding the pump and res need to be separate if placed in the rear I have room for dual d5 pumps and a res in my case see image below. I will be adding a second pump with my next build in this case and have already purchased the dual pump top to do it and test fitted. So the answer is no you should not have an issue there and they can stay together.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Hmm, your order looks pretty nice actually. I think I will go that route if possible. That will also net the least tubing used which is a plus IMO.

I will use the 7mm shrouds to decouple some. Like: case>shrouds>fans>rad.
Should decrease noise to, as they are made from rubber (sort of).

Positive pressure is also my go to setup.
I first thought about setting up the top radiator as exhaust and maybe even the rear fan as intake. Reason for that is that I am going to place the case on my desk. And it will be VERY close to the wall, my desk is only 63.5cm deep. You know the Primo is 65cm deep, right?









Speaking of which. How rigid is the feet of the Primo? I will be forced to have the case stick out the front of my desk a bit because else I can't even have cables behind it (which are obviously needed).

I do believe you about the VRM and airflow.
Makes sense also. I also have an EK block and backplate. Since the backplate has a thermal pad it acts as a heatsink so putting airflow over it should help. I also agree on you saying "cooler is better" but I honestly don't think it is worth it to buy extra fans and place them where you have them for lowering the VRM which are already pretty cool (at least for me). If they were like 90c I would totally do it but they hardly go over 50c ever (mostly 40-45c).

Alright about the pump.
What I notice is yours is sticking next to the lower rad. Is that a Monsta though, damn just now I see how much room there is in that case.
I plan to use my 360 in the bottom though. I am pretty sure I will not be able to mount my pump like you have it or am I seeing it wrong? I take it my radiator will be much closer to the back of the case, forcing me to mount my pump/res above the radiator. I don't know If I will have as much room then.

How did you mount your pump by the way? It almost looks like it is resting on the fitting attached to the rad. But I must be seeing it wrong.

Thanks for sharing your picture though. Gave me some more insight. Do you think I can get away without extenders on the top rad? I don't know if I will be able to make a nice lead from te rad to my Supremacy cpu block.


----------



## owcraftsman

Quote:


> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> I do have the Primo. I'm stuck at work for another 5 hours, but when I get home I'll measure for you. I use the X-Res and I remember when I was test fitting it in that area that the pump top portion of the res was hitting the extruding metal around the PCI brackets so it had to be mounted lower.
> 
> I did a lot of planning before getting the case, but once I actually had it in my hands everything changed. The best advice I can give you is to buy it and play around from there. I'll measure for you when I get home.
> 
> 
> 
> Haha, that is most likely what happens for me to.
> It's more that I want to know (as good as possible) what I need beforehand so I can order everything in one go.
> 
> I will look forward to your data when you do measure.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *owcraftsman*
> 
> Yes I think fitting a res in there with that size GPU will be problematic.
> 
> I pull air in from the bottom which leaves the blades unprotected and to close to the grill on the bottom of the Primo and the res bracket id too small for a 360. I initially installed fans then rad on the bottom with 30mm screws and occasionally I'd hear the blades tapping the case depending on how the case was resting on the feet the decoulplers eliminated that problem and the side benefit is improved air flow.
> As a matter of fact all fans except rear top are set to intake for positive pressure. I used to take the PC out to the garage once a month to dust with my air compressor and now maybe every three or 4 months is all I need and it's not very dusty even at that with the positive case pressure but I do still clean the intake filters once a month.
> 
> I have 2 290x reference card with backplates all I can say is it's not BS for me I get -4 to -6c on my VRMs with those fans blowing over the cards. In my book that substantial. No I don't have *Empirical evidence*
> to substantiate the claim nor do I plan to produce it, it's only my personal observation. Backplates can sometime trap heat vs what we think they are designed to do which is dissipate heat. Of course YMMV depending on GPU or who makes the block/backplate but I use EK blocks and back plates and have had the same issues with GTX 680, 980Ti and 290x all had better vrm temps without backplate and the best case scenario was always backplate and active cooling. The only exception to this rule I've found was with a Kryographics Active XCS backplate on a 290x in my Luxe build. All that said you will likely never have an issue with heat from the VRMs however for me it's all about longevity we all know cooler the better.
> 
> Regarding the pump and res need to be separate if placed in the rear I have room for dual d5 pumps and a res in my case see image below. I will be adding a second pump with my next build in this case and have already purchased the dual pump top to do it and test fitted. So the answer is no you should not have an issue there and they can stay together.
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hmm, your order looks pretty nice actually. I think I will go that route if possible. That will also net the least tubing used which is a plus IMO.
> 
> I will use the 7mm shrouds to decouple some. Like: case>shrouds>fans>rad.
> Should decrease noise to, as they are made from rubber (sort of).
> 
> Positive pressure is also my go to setup.
> I first thought about setting up the top radiator as exhaust and maybe even the rear fan as intake. Reason for that is that I am going to place the case on my desk. And it will be VERY close to the wall, my desk is only 63.5cm deep. You know the Primo is 65cm deep, right?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Speaking of which. How rigid is the feet of the Primo? I will be forced to have the case stick out the front of my desk a bit because else I can't even have cables behind it (which are obviously needed).
> 
> I do believe you about the VRM and airflow.
> Makes sense also. I also have an EK block and backplate. Since the backplate has a thermal pad it acts as a heatsink so putting airflow over it should help. I also agree on you saying "cooler is better" but I honestly don't think it is worth it to buy extra fans and place them where you have them for lowering the VRM which are already pretty cool (at least for me). If they were like 90c I would totally do it but they hardly go over 50c ever (mostly 40-45c).
> 
> Alright about the pump.
> What I notice is yours is sticking next to the lower rad. Is that a Monsta though, damn just now I see how much room there is in that case.
> I plan to use my 360 in the bottom though. I am pretty sure I will not be able to mount my pump like you have it or am I seeing it wrong? I take it my radiator will be much closer to the back of the case, forcing me to mount my pump/res above the radiator. I don't know If I will have as much room then.
> 
> How did you mount your pump by the way? It almost looks like it is resting on the fitting attached to the rad. But I must be seeing it wrong.
> 
> Thanks for sharing your picture though. Gave me some more insight. Do you think I can get away without extenders on the top rad? I don't know if I will be able to make a nice lead from te rad to my Supremacy cpu block.
Click to expand...

My bottom rad is a Monsta 360 Keep in mind the primo fits up to a 480 down there just be carfeful because the width won't fit some of the wide rads. All Alphacool rads are compatible though. Normally this is where Doyll chimes in, he's the expert but, I believe max width for rads in the bottom of a Primo is 127mm. In my build my rad is pushed a little towards the back (under 120mm away from rear wall) to accommodate easily a drain at the front of the case. Bottom line with a 360 down there your options are plenty. RavageTheEarth put it best "The best advice I can give you is to buy it and play around from there."


----------



## jsc1973

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dlewbell*
> 
> You'll need a 3.5" to 5.25" drive bay adapter assuming you don't already have one. The Phanteks cases only have 5.25" external drive bays. Beyond that it will work great. I'm using the Enthoo Luxe, which is basically a more showy Pro with extra height in the top. The space behind the motherboard is great to work in. You can run a pretty large bundle of cables down the center straps without issue. The removable panel in the top can also be really helpful when running wires or installing a CPU cooler. I wouldn't hesitate to buy it.
> 
> Here's the inside of mine from both sides, so you can get an idea of what the wiring is like. Mine's not the cleanest ever, but I'm happy with it.
> I have the bottom drive cage removed. You'll need both in there to handle 4 HDDs & 1 SSD unless you mount one HDD in the 5.25" bay & an SSD in a bracket. The 5.25" bays are not drilled for HDDs, so you'll have to do that yourself or use tape/velcro if you want it there.
> The front panel USB 3.0 cable is stiff. That's why mine makes such a large loop before going behind the motherboard tray.


Thanks for the information. +1

I've actually got two Icy Dock Flex-Fits already, which I use to mount the two SSD's and two mobile HDD's that are in my desktop. I don't even have a full-size HDD in there anymore; the one I have is only used as en external drive for backup.


----------



## owcraftsman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> @owcraftsman
> 
> I could always do this order, when I do mount the pump/res to the backside.
> 
> 
> 
> How do you guys think that will look?
> 
> 
> 
> I toyed with the idea of mounting my res there. Just remember to install and tighten down your GPU and any other PCI devices you have there since the reservoir will block access to those PCI bracket screws.
Click to expand...

If you notice from my pic I resolved that issue with a swivel 90 elbow. With flexible hoses I simply pull it out of the way. The res can move in and out. You just have to be sure all connections are tight and don't wiggle loose when moving. I have also placed a support under the pump to insure no stress on the elbow and that keeps it perfectly straight up and down but the res is not hard mounted to the rear panel which would obscure access to expansion slots.


----------



## Faster_is_better

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> I toyed with the idea of mounting my res there. Just remember to install and tighten down your GPU and any other PCI devices you have there since the reservoir will block access to those PCI bracket screws.
> 
> 
> 
> Thumbscrews FTW.
> 
> But it does suck indeed. Since you can't move anything around anymore after you've placed the reservoir there.
> Do you have the Primo? Can you tell me how much space there is next to the pci slots? If I do mount there I have to be able to mount the EK D5 X-res there. If I have to buy a separate reservoir and pump to I might as well buy a slimmer reservoir and just mount it next to the GPU. And then mount the pump either behind the motherboard or at the bottom under my HDDs.
> 
> The above picture has the least tubing though. Else I will have something like this:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Or this, with the pump behind the psu cover:
> 
> I guess the second option would look worst, right?
Click to expand...

I routed my tubing like your 2nd pic. I did it primarily to show least amount of tubing as well as a bit of a unique route (sneaky res to pump piping). Plus I like the layout


----------



## .theMetal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pez*
> 
> Very nice! I'm loving the case myself. My only suggestion is probably that 2x140 or 3x120 in the front might do you better justice than that 200mm
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


Thanks! On that topic, here are some quick and dirty tests for you. I stole this exact post from the other day when I posted in the Ways to Better Cooling thread:

I ran them all with the air conditioning on, so it's probably around 22-23c in the house I ran the 3dmark firestrike demo once per test, then just took screen's of the temps.

You can see from the tests the panel is very restrictive. Things I noticed, with the big fan and the panel installed, the phanteks heatsink fans had to spin up quite a bit. All of the other tests did not. Without the panel, the 2 140's were VERY loud, it blocks out a lot of sound. I think I'm going to try to mod it to stick out a little further so more air can get in to the fans. The big phanteks fan is very quiet, it is almost inaudible.

Here is the PH-F200SP with the front panel:


Here it is without:


Now here is the two 140's with the front panel:


and without:


----------



## RavageTheEarth

So I moved my 38mm fans to the bottom of the 360mm radiator on the bottom of the case to push rather than pull. The only problem is that the screws I'm using are too long so I'm using washers, but that prevents me from sliding the bottom dust filters in. Just ordered some 40mm screws for the fans and I got black ones since the silver really bothers me. It does look a lot better this way though


----------



## sav4

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *capitalj*
> 
> Question regarding my Enthoo Luxe and the LED button on the front panel. Lately, when I first boot the PC up, I've noticed that I've got to press it once or twice, then a long hold to turn the LEDs off; of course if I wanted to change colors I'd turn it back on and single presses work fine to cycle through.
> 
> My issue is, I don't remember ever having to click it multiple times and then hold, to turn off. Pretty sure I've always been able to just do a single hold to turn off. Unless I've been mistaken? Stupid question, I know lol.


Mine has always been a long press to turn off. Not 100% but I thought a couple people complained of this when they first came out possibly a fault switch bad connection. When you press before holding it down do the colours change?


----------



## capitalj

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sav4*
> 
> Mine has always been a long press to turn off. Not 100% but I thought a couple people complained of this when they first came out possibly a fault switch bad connection. When you press before holding it down do the colours change?


No, the color doesn't change if I press it once. After I boot up my PC, I have to press it a few times, and then it cycles colors or after a few times, then I long hold to turn it off. It's like...it takes a few clicks to "start" up.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> So I moved my 38mm fans to the bottom of the 360mm radiator on the bottom of the case to push rather than pull. The only problem is that the screws I'm using are too long so I'm using washers, but that prevents me from sliding the bottom dust filters in. Just ordered some 40mm screws for the fans and I got black ones since the silver really bothers me. It does look a lot better this way though
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I suspect raising your case up on some 30-40mm blocks will greatly improve bottom radiator performance. The bottom of Primo has very little airflow area.
Quote:


> Total airflow area of intake through Primo base to bottom fans is 91.35sq cm.. a single 120mm fan has 101sq cm airflow area.. and that's not taking into account the lost of airflow area caused by the grill mesh of another 60-70% (grill mesh is 30-40% open area).
> 
> Left side has no airflow.. The grills on filters are totally cosmetic!! There's a solid surface behind them visible when you take them out to clean!!
> 
> . 0.0sq cm = Left side vents are fake
> 16.2sq cm = Right side has 36x 3x15mm slots
> 36.75sq cm = Back is 147x25mm
> 15sq cm = Front has 5x 10x30mm
> 23.4sq cm = Base is 2mm off floor with 126.5cm - 19.5cm for feet = 117cm + back area
> *91.35sq cm* = Total area
> 
> This does not take into account the area loss to grill mesh or turbulence (approx. 30-40% airflow restriction)..
> 
> *35mm space* between floor and bottom of case adds 400sq cm. That is *with 6x30mm castor* area deducted (42.4sq cm).. 6x square blocks is 73.5sq cm
> *40mm space* between floor and bottom of case adds 409.6sq cm of airflow area. This is *with 6x 40mm block* area deducted. 6x square blocks is 96sq cm
> 
> By comparison, a *120mm fan* has about *100sq cm* of airflow area and a *140mm fan* has about *140sq cm* of airflow area. It varies some because of center hub size differences.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *.theMetal*
> 
> Thanks! On that topic, here are some quick and dirty tests for you. I stole this exact post from the other day when I posted in the Ways to Better Cooling thread:
> 
> I ran them all with the air conditioning on, so it's probably around 22-23c in the house I ran the 3dmark firestrike demo once per test, then just took screen's of the temps.
> 
> You can see from the tests the panel is very restrictive. Things I noticed, with the big fan and the panel installed, the phanteks heatsink fans had to spin up quite a bit. All of the other tests did not. Without the panel, the 2 140's were VERY loud, it blocks out a lot of sound. I think I'm going to try to mod it to stick out a little further so more air can get in to the fans. The big phanteks fan is very quiet, it is almost inaudible.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the PH-F200SP with the front panel:
> 
> 
> Here it is without:
> 
> 
> Now here is the two 140's with the front panel:
> 
> The difference between stock fan and repalcements is significant. I noticed the difference between with and witout front is much less with 140m fans.
> 
> and without:


I made up a chart of CPU, GPU, motherboard temps, but can't load it.
While stock 200SP was not doing as well as 2x 140mm fans, the varience between with and without cover is not as great with 200SP. It's almost like the 140mm fans flow more air without resistance, but are not proportionately as good at overcoming the resistance of cover. As in much better airflow / cooling without cover, but not as much improvement with cover.

I know you told me what fans they are, but I can't remember.


----------



## pez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *.theMetal*
> 
> Thanks! On that topic, here are some quick and dirty tests for you. I stole this exact post from the other day when I posted in the Ways to Better Cooling thread:
> 
> I ran them all with the air conditioning on, so it's probably around 22-23c in the house I ran the 3dmark firestrike demo once per test, then just took screen's of the temps.
> 
> You can see from the tests the panel is very restrictive. Things I noticed, with the big fan and the panel installed, the phanteks heatsink fans had to spin up quite a bit. All of the other tests did not. Without the panel, the 2 140's were VERY loud, it blocks out a lot of sound. I think I'm going to try to mod it to stick out a little further so more air can get in to the fans. The big phanteks fan is very quiet, it is almost inaudible.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the PH-F200SP with the front panel:
> 
> 
> Here it is without:
> 
> 
> Now here is the two 140's with the front panel:
> 
> 
> and without:


Thank you for posting this. Someone in the Computex thread was making a big hooplah that the PSU shroud is what is the culprit of subpar cooling in the Evolv ITX, but as I imagined, it's most likely the front panel that is the bigger culprit. The PSU shroud will have some effect I'm sure, but nothing like that front panel. I was also going to ask which 140mm fans you are using as well? (thanks doyll







)


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pez*
> 
> Thank you for posting this. Someone in the Computex thread was making a big hooplah that the PSU shroud is what is the culprit of subpar cooling in the Evolv ITX, but as I imagined, it's most likely the front panel that is the bigger culprit. The PSU shroud will have some effect I'm sure, but nothing like that front panel. I was also going to ask which 140mm fans you are using as well? (thanks doyll
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )


Granted, the front panel venting is problematic, but in my book the F200SP is more of a problem. I suspect if .theMetal put a couple of F140SP fans in the front the temps with panel on would be lower than they are now.


----------



## pez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Granted, the front panel venting is problematic, but in my book the F200SP is more of a problem. I suspect if .theMetal put a couple of F140SP fans in the front the temps with panel on would be lower than they are now.


I hope so! I was thinking of moving my 2x140SPs to the front panel of the Evolv ITX build as well, and then outfitting my Pro M with 3x120 intake, but I feel that the highest fan may not be getting enough space to intake that extra airflow. It's not fully behind the ODD slot or away from the side vents, but it's enough so that it's not getting as much air as possible. Thoughts on that approach? It'll determine weather I buy 3x120SPs or 2x140SPs








.


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> I suspect raising your case up on some 30-40mm blocks will greatly improve bottom radiator performance. The bottom of Primo has very little airflow area.


Great idea. I might just do that. Temps are really good at the momenet (100% load 46C CPU, 41C GPU), but I am getting a lot of condensation inside my reservoir and I'm wondering what that's about. I haven't had that issue before so I'm wondering if the water is getting warm. Perhaps there is too many rads/blocks/tubing for one D5. I might just throw a second D5 into the loop.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pez*
> 
> I hope so! I was thinking of moving my 2x140SPs to the front panel of the Evolv ITX build as well, and then outfitting my Pro M with 3x120 intake, but I feel that the highest fan may not be getting enough space to intake that extra airflow. It's not fully behind the ODD slot or away from the side vents, but it's enough so that it's not getting as much air as possible. Thoughts on that approach? It'll determine weather I buy 3x120SPs or 2x140SPs
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


How do 3x 120mm fans fit in a case that is only 375mm tall?


----------



## .theMetal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> I made up a chart of CPU, GPU, motherboard temps, but can't load it.
> While stock 200SP was not doing as well as 2x 140mm fans, the varience between with and without cover is not as great with 200SP. It's almost like the 140mm fans flow more air without resistance, but are not proportionately as good at overcoming the resistance of cover. As in much better airflow / cooling without cover, but not as much improvement with cover.
> 
> I know you told me what fans they are, but I can't remember.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pez*
> 
> Thank you for posting this. Someone in the Computex thread was making a big hooplah that the PSU shroud is what is the culprit of subpar cooling in the Evolv ITX, but as I imagined, it's most likely the front panel that is the bigger culprit. The PSU shroud will have some effect I'm sure, but nothing like that front panel. I was also going to ask which 140mm fans you are using as well? (thanks doyll
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )


Right sorry, I used An AeroCool Shark 140mm (with the voltage reducer) on the top and a Fractal Design silent series R2 140mm on the bottom. They were what I happened to have lying around.

The processor is clocked at 4.4 with 1.21v, and the ram at 2000.

Links to the fans:

Aerocool Shark

Fractal Silent Series R2


----------



## pez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> How do 3x 120mm fans fit in a case that is only 375mm tall?


Not sure, but when I built in it I was skeptical until I held the fans up to the spots. It just requires you to remove the ODD cage







. It's listed on the official specs page on Phanteks and was partially the reason I decided I would go with the the Pro M over the Evolv ATX







.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *.theMetal*
> 
> Right sorry, I used An AeroCool Shark 140mm (with the voltage reducer) on the top and a Fractal Design silent series R2 140mm on the bottom. They were what I happened to have lying around.
> 
> The processor is clocked at 4.4 with 1.21v, and the ram at 2000.
> 
> Links to the fans:
> 
> Aerocool Shark
> 
> Fractal Silent Series R2


No worries







. I agree with doyll though. Take one for the team and swap in some 140SPs







.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pez*
> 
> Not sure, but when I built in it I was skeptical until I held the fans up to the spots. It just requires you to remove the ODD cage
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . It's listed on the official specs page on Phanteks and was partially the reason I decided I would go with the the Pro M over the Evolv ATX
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


Not sure what you are saying here. The Pro M and Evolv ATX use the same chassis. Both fit 3 x 120mm in the front, and the Evolv does not require removing anything.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pez*
> 
> Not sure, but when I built in it I was skeptical until I held the fans up to the spots. It just requires you to remove the ODD cage
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . It's listed on the official specs page on Phanteks and was partially the reason I decided I would go with the the Pro M over the Evolv ATX
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


.theMetal has Evolv ITX, Are you taking maybe talking about something else, like your Enthoo Pro M .. which does not support 200mm fans)?














Come on man, don't play with my weak brain like this.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *.theMetal*
> 
> Right sorry, I used An AeroCool Shark 140mm (with the voltage reducer) on the top and a Fractal Design silent series R2 140mm on the bottom. They were what I happened to have lying around.
> 
> The processor is clocked at 4.4 with 1.21v, and the ram at 2000.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Links to the fans:
> 
> Aerocool Shark
> 
> Fractal Silent Series R2


Yeah, they are both quite low pressure, especially at low speed. F140SP is 1.33mm H2O compared to R2's 0.84mm H2O (0.54 @ 800rpm) or Aeroshark's 1.07mmH2O (0.3mm H2O @ 800rpm). Better fans with sutomatic speed control so they cycle with coolers and you will be set.


----------



## Anglis

Got my Phanteks Evolve Tempered Glass case in!


----------



## pez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Not sure what you are saying here. The Pro M and Evolv ATX use the same chassis. Both fit 3 x 120mm in the front, and the Evolv does not require removing anything.


Sorry, I was saying that I wanted the Evolv ATX for the 3x120mm capabilities in the front until I learned that the Pro M's ODD cage could be removed for the same capabilities. That and the better airflow capabilities







. When I was first researching cases, I didn't realize they were the same inner chassis either







.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> .theMetal has Evolv ITX, Are you taking maybe talking about something else, like your Enthoo Pro M .. which does not support 200mm fans)?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Come on man, don't play with my weak brain like this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah, they are both quite low pressure, especially at low speed. F140SP is 1.33mm H2O compared to R2's 0.84mm H2O (0.54 @ 800rpm) or Aeroshark's 1.07mmH2O (0.3mm H2O @ 800rpm). Better fans with sutomatic speed control so they cycle with coolers and you will be set.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pez*
> 
> I hope so! *I was thinking of moving my 2x140SPs to the front panel of the Evolv ITX build as well, and then outfitting my Pro M with 3x120* intake, but I feel that the highest fan may not be getting enough space to intake that extra airflow. It's not fully behind the ODD slot or away from the side vents, but it's enough so that it's not getting as much air as possible. Thoughts on that approach? It'll determine weather I buy 3x120SPs or 2x140SPs
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


Silly doyll, drugs are for kids....

But I bolded it for you







. I'm just concerns that top 120mm would be somewhat of a waste. I positioned both of my 140s for some airflow to the bottom, and probably 75% of the fan surface area for airflow to my GPUs and CPU cooler. (You can click on the rig 'Lydia' in my sig)


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Just ordered myself a second MCP655 for this case. Already have a pump top lying around so I didn't need to buy that. Going to use the EK uni brackets to mount it to the bottom radiator. Might even move my res down there too. Should look pretty nice and increase head pressure a bit.


----------



## viperguy212

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anglis*
> 
> Got my Phantexs Evolve Tempered Glass case in!


Looks awesome! I have my whole water cooling build sitting in front of me except for my TG Evolv, estimated delivery date is early July


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pez*
> 
> Silly doyll, drugs are for kids....
> 
> But I bolded it for you
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . I'm just concerns that top 120mm would be somewhat of a waste. I positioned both of my 140s for some airflow to the bottom, and probably 75% of the fan surface area for airflow to my GPUs and CPU cooler. (You can click on the rig 'Lydia' in my sig)


I suspect 3x 120mm would not do as well as 2x 140mm for the reasons you mentioned. Keep in mind 2x 140mm fans perform same as 3x 120mm fans of same design, and usually are a little quieter doing it.


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *viperguy212*
> 
> Looks awesome! I have my whole water cooling build sitting in front of me except for my TG Evolv, estimated delivery date is early July


Time to make a test bench then!


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> I suspect 3x 120mm would not do as well as 2x 140mm for the reasons you mentioned. Keep in mind 2x 140mm fans perform same as 3x 120mm fans of same design, and usually are a little quieter doing it.


Agreed. But, keep in mind the split in the Evolv ATX/Pro M. With the two 140mm, you can raise them to get all of the airflow into the main chamber, which would be 25% more than the ~2.25 of the 120mm that are exposed to the main chamber. You do sacrifice airflow to the HDD by doing that, though. You can mount an 80mm fan below the two 140mm to handle that.


----------



## pez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> I suspect 3x 120mm would not do as well as 2x 140mm for the reasons you mentioned. Keep in mind 2x 140mm fans perform same as 3x 120mm fans of same design, and usually are a little quieter doing it.


I figured as much







. I'm very happy with the setup and while I haven't fine tuned the fans, I'm not bothered one bit by the extra noise compared to the cooling performance I'm getting







. I'll probably order a couple 140mm SPs for the Mini ITX build now







.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Agreed. But, keep in mind the split in the Evolv ATX/Pro M. With the two 140mm, you can raise them to get all of the airflow into the main chamber, which would be 25% more than the ~2.25 of the 120mm that are exposed to the main chamber. You do sacrifice airflow to the HDD by doing that, though.


Yep. I feel like 75% is a good estimate of what I've got going to the top chamber, if not a tad bit more in my situation. I only have one drive below with plans for another to go down there, but I think the highest temp I've seen on the HDD was 36C?


----------



## viperguy212

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> Time to make a test bench then!


That and some 3d modeling











Here is a VERY ROUGH mock up in Sketchup of some of the rads/mobo/cards, etc. Feel free to use as needed (combo of files found online). Google Drive download link here.

I can refine a whole lot more as its pretty sloppy and I just started messing with sketchup yesterday lol.

Parts:

Alpha Cool 360x30 xflow Radiator
Alpha Cool 240x45 xflow Radiator
Clear PETG
EK-FB ASUS M8G Monoblock
EK 1080 water block or EVGA hydrocoper (not added yet)
XSPC 170 res/d5 pump combo


----------



## Anglis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *viperguy212*
> 
> Looks awesome! I have my whole water cooling build sitting in front of me except for my TG Evolv, estimated delivery date is early July


I almost did a full custom loop but man I have a 18 month old toddler and she makes it hard for me to close my office door for long periods of time so i did a simple yet clean build. I'm happy! I'll do a custom loop one day tho!


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *viperguy212*
> 
> That and some 3d modeling
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a VERY ROUGH mock up in Sketchup of some of the rads/mobo/cards, etc. Feel free to use as needed (combo of files found online). Google Drive download link here.
> 
> I can refine a whole lot more as its pretty sloppy and I just started messing with sketchup yesterday lol.
> 
> Parts:
> 
> Alpha Cool 360x30 xflow Radiator
> Alpha Cool 240x45 xflow Radiator
> Clear PETG
> EK-FB ASUS M8G Monoblock
> EK 1080 water block or EVGA hydrocoper (not added yet)
> XSPC 170 res/d5 pump combo


I really wish I knew about Alphacool's X-Flow rads when I was building my computer a couple weeks back. Would have helped a lot ESPECIALLY on my top radiator.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> I really wish I knew about Alphacool's X-Flow rads when I was building my computer a couple weeks back. Would have helped a lot ESPECIALLY on my top radiator.


Keep in mind that the X-Flows take a little bit of a performance hit. If you are thinking about crossflow rads, HWLabs is a much better bet. The crossflow HWL GTS is ~12% down from the standard GTS, but still is more capable than the standard Alphacool:


----------



## viperguy212

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Keep in mind that the X-Flows take a little bit of a performance hit. If you are thinking about crossflow rads, HWLabs is a much better bet. The crossflow HWL GTS is ~12% down from the standard GTS, but still is more capable than the standard Alphacool:


It was an internal conflict for me after I found that graph lol. I really like HWL's coating but ultimately I had some Amazon gift cards and also wanted to put a 45mm up front, Plus I figure I'm way past the "good enough" threshold as is.


----------



## RavageTheEarth

So I'm mocking up some ideas for installing my second MCP655. Here I'm using the EK-UNI pump bracket. Now that I'm looking at this pump top I'm wishing that I bought another one. It's kind of beat up. Should still do the job for the time being though.


----------



## .theMetal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pez*
> 
> No worries
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . I agree with doyll though. Take one for the team and swap in some 140SPs
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Yeah, they are both quite low pressure, especially at low speed. F140SP is 1.33mm H2O compared to R2's 0.84mm H2O (0.54 @ 800rpm) or Aeroshark's 1.07mmH2O (0.3mm H2O @ 800rpm). Better fans with sutomatic speed control so they cycle with coolers and you will be set.


Because my wife is a fantastic, amazing lady, I have two Phanteks F140SP's in the mail







I will do some front panel on/off testing when they get here next week. Then my next purchase will be something to control their speed.


----------



## pez

Woot! I don't even know and I agree with you







.


----------



## owcraftsman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> So I'm mocking up some ideas for installing my second MCP655. Here I'm using the EK-UNI pump bracket. Now that I'm looking at this pump top I'm wishing that I bought another one. It's kind of beat up. Should still do the job for the time being though.


IMHO I would use an EK dual d5 top if you really must have two D5's and add some fans to the monsta for push pull those rads need lots of air flow to make them worth their while. Especially when you consider the restrictions associated with the bottom of the Primo it needs all the help it can get. You'd get way more out of that than just adding a pump which may or may not truly be needed.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *.theMetal*
> 
> Because my wife is a fantastic, amazing lady, I have two Phanteks F140SP's in the mail
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I will do some front panel on/off testing when they get here next week. Then my next purchase will be something to control their speed.


Look forward to hearing how it all sets up. I'm assuming your motherboard headers have temp to speed control, so you can probably use them (or 'Y' splitter on one) so fans cycle with component heat & airflow demands. Only problem is I've heard some of these Assus mobo have problematic fan control.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *viperguy212*
> 
> It was an internal conflict for me after I found that graph lol. I really like HWL's coating but ultimately I had some Amazon gift cards and also wanted to put a 45mm up front, Plus I figure I'm way past the "good enough" threshold as is.


The coating is nice....the performance and build quality is nicer.


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *owcraftsman*
> 
> IMHO I would use an EK dual d5 top if you really must have two D5's and add some fans to the monsta for push pull those rads need lots of air flow to make them worth their while. Especially when you consider the restrictions associated with the bottom of the Primo it needs all the help it can get. You'd get way more out of that than just adding a pump which may or may not truly be needed.


I almost bought the dual D5 top, but I had no idea where I would be able to mount it. The bottom radiator is just a UT60. I did order more fans and because I am using the 120mm pump mount I'll be able to do P/P and still be able to mount the second pump there.


----------



## Chopper1591

Change of plan. Instead of the nemesis gts 420, which i wanted to buy for in the top of the primo, I bought a EK Coolstream CE 420. The rad is second hand, about 7 months old. Paid €65 shipping included. Good deal I guess.

Also it seems that the gts won't even fit as its 153mm wide. The EK rad is 145.


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Has anyone here taken the 5.25" bays out?


----------



## .theMetal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Look forward to hearing how it all sets up. I'm assuming your motherboard headers have temp to speed control, so you can probably use them (or 'Y' splitter on one) so fans cycle with component heat & airflow demands. Only problem is I've heard some of these Assus mobo have problematic fan control.


There is the cpu header and there is one extra fan header on my board. They are both 4 pin, and I have the two phanteks fans and the pwm extension piece connected to a splitter connected to that. So I do have a free 4 pin. I don't know exactly how well the fan control is. I'm thinking I will just run them at full speed for now, then maybe head down to my microcenter and pick up some kind of controller a bit later on They have the NZXT Grid Plus v2 there in stock, not sure how well it works though.


----------



## owcraftsman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *owcraftsman*
> 
> IMHO I would use an EK dual d5 top if you really must have two D5's and add some fans to the monsta for push pull those rads need lots of air flow to make them worth their while. Especially when you consider the restrictions associated with the bottom of the Primo it needs all the help it can get. You'd get way more out of that than just adding a pump which may or may not truly be needed.
> 
> 
> 
> I almost bought the dual D5 top, but I had no idea where I would be able to mount it. The bottom radiator is just a UT60. I did order more fans and because I am using the 120mm pump mount I'll be able to do P/P and still be able to mount the second pump there.
Click to expand...

It would fit if you remove the res bracket or move the UT 360 to the front and mount the dual pump in the rear similar to my setup but with a low profile tank such as yours the dual top could fit up front unless you have a rad there too if so you could always side mount the ST30 instead of the front. Really where there's a will there's a way with this case.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> Change of plan. Instead of the nemesis gts 420, which i wanted to buy for in the top of the primo, I bought a EK Coolstream CE 420. The rad is second hand, about 7 months old. Paid €65 shipping included. Good deal I guess.
> 
> Also it seems that the gts won't even fit as its 153mm wide. The EK rad is 145.


Although I think the Coolstream was a good buy filling from the top is impossible with only two ports facing down. I highly recommend the 7 port rads like an Alphacool Rad. especially for the top most rad, so you can fill from one of the two ports facing up and from the top of the loop it also makes draining easier too. You know the thumb on a straw trick let loose on the thumb and everything falls out? Same principle when draining unscrew a top port and everything drains quickly from your drain port preferably at the lowest point of the loop you can get it which is another reason I like the Alphacool Rads the 7th port is at the end of the rads that make a sweet spot for a drain. If it happens to be the rad in the bottom it is at the lowest spot of the loop. I can literally drain my loop, remove or add a component to the loop, or just change fluids then refill and be back up and running confidently in under an hour and the system is fully bled, air pocket and bubble free. The best planned loop can be easy to maintenance and not a time consuming nightmare.


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Redoing the loop. I think I'm going to try the bottom mounted res for this time around and see how that is.


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Very happy with the dual pump setup. Definitely dropped temps a couple degrees Celsius. Case looks a little less cluttered now that I got the reservoir away from the GPU.


----------



## koeden

Hi everyone,

I just recently got the Enthoo Evolv ATX TG and a Kraken x61 cooler, however I ran into issues fitting the x61 on the top of the case since it was colliding with my RAM (Corsair Dominator). Instead, I've moved the x61 to the front of the case, but I'm a little worried that my GPU is not getting adequate cooling now. My plan is to add 3 120mm fans to the top, but I was wondering, is doing that okay? It doesn't look like there is a dust filter on the top of the case.

Sorry for any cooling ignorance, pretty new to this!


----------



## pez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *koeden*
> 
> Hi everyone,
> 
> I just recently got the Enthoo Evolv ATX TG and a Kraken x61 cooler, however I ran into issues fitting the x61 on the top of the case since it was colliding with my RAM (Corsair Dominator). Instead, I've moved the x61 to the front of the case, but I'm a little worried that my GPU is not getting adequate cooling now. My plan is to add 3 120mm fans to the top, but I was wondering, is doing that okay? It doesn't look like there is a dust filter on the top of the case.
> 
> Sorry for any cooling ignorance, pretty new to this!


Welcome to OCN...sorta







.

The best way to see it is to test your current setup. You'll need some good fans for the front as that front panel can be quite restrictive. Something like the Fractal GP12/14 or the Phanteks 120SP/140SP will go a long way for you in terms of good air intake, and may even outperform the stock fans of the Kraken X61. I believe the TG comes with 3 fans already, and they should all be Phanteks SP models. I'd think 1 rear exhaust and maybe one top rear exhaust should do the trick for you to maintain a consistent airflow.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *koeden*
> 
> Hi everyone,
> 
> I just recently got the Enthoo Evolv ATX TG and a Kraken x61 cooler, however I ran into issues fitting the x61 on the top of the case since it was colliding with my RAM (Corsair Dominator). Instead, I've moved the x61 to the front of the case, but I'm a little worried that my GPU is not getting adequate cooling now. My plan is to add 3 120mm fans to the top, but I was wondering, is doing that okay? It doesn't look like there is a dust filter on the top of the case.
> 
> Sorry for any cooling ignorance, pretty new to this!


First I'll offer my consonances for the X61.







It's cools about the same as most top tier air coolers, but costs more. At least it has decent fans which is why the sound level is not as extreme as other CLCs. Same fan blade design as TY-140 / 143 / 147 / 147A, 149 and NF-A15 / A14 have used for many years .. only difference is housing. Simple overlay of half of one fan on the others shows they are virtually the same.

The Eveolv ATX comes stock with PH-F140SP, which have simalr flow @ rpm as your FX 140 V2 do. To improve the flow you would need a couple 2500rpm fans like your radiator fans .. anything less will not match the flow potential of radiator. I'm not sure what would be best, but at a guess stacking another pair of radiator fans on radiator might be best option.









Adding a back exhaust probably won't help (maybe if it's same fans as on radiator) and adding top intakes probably won't help because where is all this intake airflow potential supposed to flow out of the case? For air to enter case, it has to have at least the same area to leave the case .. what flows in must flow out / what flows out must flow in.

Using one of top fan mounts as intake or exhaust will only work if the fan / radiator mounting tray has all other holes sealed so the airflow through the fan cannot circle around and come back through the fan.

While the Evolv front looks like it's not much vent area, but the vent area there is is totally unrestricted by grill strips or mesh. This means it's 100 sq cm of area is all airflow compared to most vents with mesh loosing 20-50% of their area to the mesh and another 30-50% do to turbulence.

Sorry Pex, maybe I'm misunderstanding you, but Fractal Design GP 12 and GP 14 are not as good as PH-F140SP they are 52cfm / 0.88 mm H2O & 68 cfm / 0.71 mm H2O compared to 82 cfm / 1.33 mm H2O for F140SP. That is less free airflow rating than the stock case F140SP fans have, and the even lower pressure rating to overcome resistance they would flow significant'y less air .. and that's assuming the stock specs are accurate. Besides, the specs on stock X61 fans are better than PH-F140SP, and considering their design it's fair to assume the are.


----------



## pez

Ah, I had been reading that the Fractal fans were decent...moreso than you make them sound







.

I realized the fans that come with the case were 140SPs I felt myself less inclined to recommend other fans after that...just too lazy to look up specs and/or edit my post at the time







.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pez*
> 
> Ah, I had been reading that the Fractal fans were decent...moreso than you make them sound
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> I realized the fans that come with the case were 140SPs I felt myself less inclined to recommend other fans after that...just too lazy to look up specs and/or edit my post at the time
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


The Fractal Venturi series are a pretty good fan. Wouldn't be my first choice, but definitely a top tier fan. The rest of their fan lineup ranges from mediocre to downright awful.


----------



## pez

Welp, duly noted







.


----------



## paskowitz

Just pulled the trigger on an anthracite grey Evolv ATX TG!


----------



## PowerK

Hi folks.

I am currently deadlocked between Phanteks Evolv ATX and Corsair 750D. (Fractal Design Define S was on the list but I found out that E-ATX motherboard wouln't fit in it).

Evolv ATX looks lovely and quality seems to be second to none. And from my understanding, it fits E-ATX motherboard as well.

However, I am worried about the cooling performance of Evolv ATX. From my reading around communities, it seems that cooling performance of Evolv ATX is not good.

Components I will be installing are as follows.
Intel 6950X (Broadwell-E) + Corsair H115i CPU cooler.
Asus Rampage V Extreme Edition10 (E-ATX motherboard)
nVIDIA GTX 1080 2-Way SLI
4x SSDs
Corsair AX1500i PSU

Intel's new 6950X Broadwell-E runs very hot. Hence, I really hope Evolv ATX case provides a good cooling performance. Otherwise, I'll have to opt for Corsair 750D.

Anyone using X99 systems with 2-Way SLI chime in, comment and share your experience ? Thanks!


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PowerK*
> 
> Hi folks.
> 
> I am currently deadlocked between Phanteks Evolv ATX and Corsair 750D. (Fractal Design Define S was on the list but I found out that E-ATX motherboard wouln't fit in it).


Mail order is a big issue. I guarantee that if you had an Evolv ATX and 750D in front of you, this wouldn't even be a question. The quality of the Evolv is worlds better, and it is readily evident in it's appearance, as well as how the components actually fit into the case. This decision should be a no-brainer (again, if you could see them first hand), it is a bit like deciding between a Ferarri and a Honda Civic that has been plastered with yellow Nuespeed stickers.

In terms of airflow, while the Evolv ATX is only average, the 750D is certainly not better and is likely actually worse - unless you get the airflow edition and change the fans, which puts it on par with the Evolv. The airflow woes of the 750D are well documented and well known, while most of the Evolv's supposed airflow issues come from supposition of those who have never used one. Were you to dig through the last few hundred pages of this thread you would find that most are having satisfactory airflow, and most of the airflow talk is tweaks to improve it.

As for the SLI, one of the nice things about the 1080 is that two of them only produce about as much heat as a single OC 980 Ti, so that will help.

A huge help would be going with a Swiftech H240-X2 (or even H220-X2) rather than a CLC. Much better performance without the huge reliance on ridiculously loud fans. The Swiftech also happens to look a whole lot better in the case - another Ferarri vs Honda Civic....


----------



## pez

I considered a Swiftech unit like that at one point, but was deterred by bad user reviews. This more of a user error thing or...?


----------



## doyll

Could someone with an Evolv ATX TG tell me what lights it has? I'm trying to determine what it lights up like stock versus with extra led strip/s.
Thanks!








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pez*
> 
> Ah, I had been reading that the Fractal fans were decent...moreso than you make them sound
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> I realized the fans that come with the case were 140SPs I felt myself less inclined to recommend other fans after that...just too lazy to look up specs and/or edit my post at the time
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


It's hard to know what is what with anything these days. I try to keep up on at least a few fans, coolers and cases, but it's not easy. I'm trying to get some PH-F120MP and PH-F140MP to use and test. I'm hearing they are quite good, but not used them yet. The new FD Venturi seem to be good, but again, I have not used any. A couple of knowledgeable people who I trust have used and tested them and like them. Problem is they make a 1200rpm 11 blade variable voltage and a 1500rpm 7 blade PWM .. both have very differnet performance specs.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Mail order is a big issue. I guarantee that if you had an Evolv ATX and 750D in front of you, this wouldn't even be a question. The quality of the Evolv is worlds better, and it is readily evident in it's appearance, as well as how the components actually fit into the case. This decision should be a no-brainer (again, if you could see them first hand), it is a bit like deciding between a Ferarri and a Honda Civic that has been plastered with yellow Nuespeed stickers.
> 
> In terms of airflow, while the Evolv ATX is only average, the 750D is certainly not better and is likely actually worse - unless you get the airflow edition and change the fans, which puts it on par with the Evolv. The airflow woes of the 750D are well documented and well known, while most of the Evolv's supposed airflow issues come from supposition of those who have never used one. Were you to dig through the last few hundred pages of this thread you would find that most are having satisfactory airflow, and most of the airflow talk is tweaks to improve it.
> 
> As for the SLI, one of the nice things about the 1080 is that two of them only produce about as much heat as a single OC 980 Ti, so that will help.
> 
> A huge help would be going with a Swiftech H240-X2 (or even H220-X2) rather than a CLC. Much better performance without the huge reliance on ridiculously loud fans. The Swiftech also happens to look a whole lot better in the case - another Ferarri vs Honda Civic....


Swiftech has some Swiftech 220 X and 240 X still in stock. for about same price as H115i goes for. As far as i know the 220 X and 220 X2 are basically same. The differences are mostly the aesthetics. Maybe ciarlatano can verify this.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pez*
> 
> I considered a Swiftech unit like that at one point, but was deterred by bad user reviews. This more of a user error thing or...?


While they have not been without a few problems, they were mostly manufacturing quality control issues in first releases of some models or identiy ten tea owner problems. As far as I know Swiftech customer support resolved these to customer satisfaction.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pez*
> 
> I considered a Swiftech unit like that at one point, but was deterred by bad user reviews. This more of a user error thing or...?


Well.....two things to point out. First, the X and X2 line have a lower RMA rate than any CLC on the market. And that takes into consideration the issues that had with first runs (on the X it was actually a result of shipping in cold weather, but a change was made, on the X2 it was a bad run of fittings that were of course corrected). The original H220 was a whole different story as it had a pump design flaw that didn't show up quickly - that is where the bad rap comes from, a long discontinued unit.

Second....my last three posts in the owner's thread involved someone attempting to stuff a kill coil in the res (with factory fluid, no less), someone thinking they could run Aurora 24/7, and someone wanting to use a coolant specifically named by Swiftech as being incompatible. Every one of the negative NewEgg reviews essentially reads as "I have no idea what liquid cooling is or how it works".

If you read through the owner's thread, it is 99% happy users bragging, expanding and modifying. The other 1% is "ugh, my pump is making a noise/my splitter channel 3 isn't working/I spilled liquid all over myself trying to put dye in without taking out any fluid".


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Well.....two things to point out. First, the X and X2 line have a lower RMA rate than any CLC on the market. And that takes into consideration the issues that had with first runs (on the X it was actually a result of shipping in cold weather, but a change was made, on the X2 it was a bad run of fittings that were of course corrected). The original H220 was a whole different story as it had a pump design flaw that didn't show up quickly - that is where the bad rap comes from, a long discontinued unit.
> 
> Second....my last three posts in the owner's thread involved someone attempting to stuff a kill coil in the res (with factory fluid, no less), someone thinking they could run Aurora 24/7, and someone wanting to use a coolant specifically named by Swiftech as being incompatible. Every one of the negative NewEgg reviews essentially reads as "I have no idea what liquid cooling is or how it works".
> 
> If you read through the owner's thread, it is 99% happy users bragging, expanding and modifying. The other 1% is "ugh, my pump is making a noise/my splitter channel 3 isn't working/I spilled liquid all over myself trying to put dye in without taking out any fluid".


As i remember it, the original H220 pump problem was resolved and some other company is still selling it?? Can't remember who took it over as a CLC and no idea if they used same radiator. The original H220 had a short life with Swiftech because of Asetec design patent infringement lawsuit. Asetec patented the pump on waterblock design concept, so even though the H220 pump was worlds different to Asetek CLC pumps, it was indeed on the waterblock .. therefore a patent infringement..


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> IIRC, the original H220 pump problem was resolved and some other company is still selling it?? The original H220 had a short life with Swiftech because of Asetec design patent infringement lawsuit. Asetec patented the pump on waterblock design concept, so even though the H220 pump was worlds different to Asetek CLC pumps, it was indeed on the waterblock .. therefore a patent infringement..


And....I believe that Swiftech was actually doing the pump on block Apogee Drive prior to the Asetek design. They simply didn't patent it.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> And....I believe that Swiftech was actually doing the pump on block Apogee Drive prior to the Asetek design. They simply didn't patent it.


That also rings a bell or two. I remember Swifttech quite selling H220 in USA while it was still available here in Europe, but not many were available. As I remember it all pumps with problems were replaced by Swiftech customer support. Don't know about Canada or other places.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> That also rings a bell or two. I remember Swifttech quite selling H220 in USA while it was still available here in Europe, but not many were available. As I remember it all pumps with problems were replaced by Swiftech customer support. Don't know about Canada or other places.


It lived on in the US as the Cooler Master Glacer 240L. I'm not positive what CM did as far as the pump issue.


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PowerK*
> 
> Hi folks.
> 
> I am currently deadlocked between Phanteks Evolv ATX and Corsair 750D. (Fractal Design Define S was on the list but I found out that E-ATX motherboard wouln't fit in it).
> 
> Evolv ATX looks lovely and quality seems to be second to none. And from my understanding, it fits E-ATX motherboard as well.
> 
> However, I am worried about the cooling performance of Evolv ATX. From my reading around communities, it seems that cooling performance of Evolv ATX is not good.
> 
> Components I will be installing are as follows.
> Intel 6950X (Broadwell-E) + Corsair H115i CPU cooler.
> Asus Rampage V Extreme Edition10 (E-ATX motherboard)
> nVIDIA GTX 1080 2-Way SLI
> 4x SSDs
> Corsair AX1500i PSU
> 
> Intel's new 6950X Broadwell-E runs very hot. Hence, I really hope Evolv ATX case provides a good cooling performance. Otherwise, I'll have to opt for Corsair 750D.
> 
> Anyone using X99 systems with 2-Way SLI chime in, comment and share your experience ? Thanks!


Your current CPU cooler and choice of GPU cooler (reference blower vs sub custom) will be more of a limiting factor than the case. As others have said, Phanteks cases ooze quality. Outside of Caselabs, In Win and Lian Li Phanteks is top tier.

I have had a Swiftech H240X for over a year now without issue. I would HIGHLY recommend it over any Corsair AIO (I came from an H100i). The new X2 versions are even better, especially the prestige editions with the included Noiseblocker fans. Based on your parts list, you seem to have a nice budget. I'd get the Swiftech H320-X2 Prestige. Swiftech customer service is also great.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> Your current CPU cooler and choice of GPU cooler (reference blower vs sub custom) will be more of a limiting factor than the case. As others have said, Phanteks cases ooze quality. Outside of Caselabs, In Win and Lian Li Phanteks is top tier.
> 
> I have had a Swiftech H240X for over a year now without issue. I would HIGHLY recommend it over any Corsair AIO (I came from an H100i). The new X2 versions are even better, especially the prestige editions with the included Noiseblocker fans. Based on your parts list, you seem to have a nice budget. I'd get the Swiftech H320-X2 Prestige. Swiftech customer service is also great.


H320-X2 in the Evolv ATX is amazing in every aspect.


----------



## pez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Well.....two things to point out. First, the X and X2 line have a lower RMA rate than any CLC on the market. And that takes into consideration the issues that had with first runs (on the X it was actually a result of shipping in cold weather, but a change was made, on the X2 it was a bad run of fittings that were of course corrected). The original H220 was a whole different story as it had a pump design flaw that didn't show up quickly - that is where the bad rap comes from, a long discontinued unit.
> 
> Second....my last three posts in the owner's thread involved someone attempting to stuff a kill coil in the res (with factory fluid, no less), someone thinking they could run Aurora 24/7, and someone wanting to use a coolant specifically named by Swiftech as being incompatible. Every one of the negative NewEgg reviews essentially reads as "I have no idea what liquid cooling is or how it works".
> 
> If you read through the owner's thread, it is 99% happy users bragging, expanding and modifying. The other 1% is "ugh, my pump is making a noise/my splitter channel 3 isn't working/I spilled liquid all over myself trying to put dye in without taking out any fluid".


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Swiftech has some Swiftech 220 X and 240 X still in stock. for about same price as H115i goes for. As far as i know the 220 X and 220 X2 are basically same. The differences are mostly the aesthetics. Maybe ciarlatano can verify this.
> While they have not been without a few problems, they were mostly manufacturing quality control issues in first releases of some models or identiy ten tea owner problems. As far as I know Swiftech customer support resolved these to customer satisfaction.


Thanks for the info as always fellas. I figured something like that may get me into WC'ing, but at the same time, I may just jump right in







.


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pez*
> 
> Thanks for the info as always fellas. I figured something like that may get me into WC'ing, but at the same time, I may just jump right in
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


I started off with a Swiftech H220-X and added an additional radiator and gpu block, worked really well for me. They are a good way of getting your feet wet.


----------



## pez

Nice! Yeah, for as long as I've been into building, I should definitely have dabbled in more than CLC, but I generally love the look of air coolers







. Maybe I'm archaic in taste







.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pez*
> 
> Nice! Yeah, for as long as I've been into building, I should definitely have dabbled in more than CLC, but I generally love the look of air coolers
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Maybe I'm archaic in taste
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


Archaic??
I've been full circle .. twice; for air to custom loops when we used car radiators to air to component loops and back to air again. so what does that make me?


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Archaic??
> I've been full circle .. twice; for air to custom loops when we used car radiators to air to component loops and back to air again. so what does that make me?


Old.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rfarmer*
> 
> Old.


While old I am, using car radiators with aquarium / pond pumps was in this century .. not very old at all.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> While old I am, using car radiators with aquarium / pond pumps was in this century .. not very old at all.


Yeah, we are old......which has given us the wisdom to never use CLCs voluntarily.


----------



## pez

Haha well I'm not old, I just meant my taste in cooling equipment







.

While I do love the hard tubing builds I see, there's something about a big tower cooler that makes me smile







. Plus the maintenance is pretty simple







.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pez*
> 
> Haha well I'm not old, I just meant my taste in cooling equipment
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> While I do love the hard tubing builds I see, there's something about a big tower cooler that makes me smile
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Plus the maintenance is pretty simple
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


I have to admit, I have a custom loop in an Evolv ATX. I recently downsized the loop to simplify maintenance and get a cleaner look. I have a GTX 1070 and block on the way, and I can say without hesitation that block will be the last I spend on liquid cooling unless the market drastically changes. The temp difference is no way worth the cost to me, even with most of my loop being evaluation samples. Also, since i don't OC my GPU, and most of my computing being CPU intensive, rather than GPU intensive, my setup with the R1, Dark Rock Pro 3, NH-D15, Tc14PE, etc is actually quieter.


----------



## pez

Haha and especially so with how the new GPUs power and heat are significantly reduced.


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pez*
> 
> Haha and especially so with how the new GPUs power and heat are significantly reduced.


So true especially last several generations by Intel and nVidia have greatly reduced power consumption. Yet you still see people putting 1500 watt PSUs in systems that don't draw more than 500 watts. Makes you wonder why they bother.


----------



## jsc1973

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rfarmer*
> 
> So true especially last several generations by Intel and nVidia have greatly reduced power consumption. Yet you still see people putting 1500 watt PSUs in systems that don't draw more than 500 watts. Makes you wonder why they bother.


For the mobile market and video card overclockers.


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rfarmer*
> 
> So true especially last several generations by Intel and nVidia have greatly reduced power consumption. Yet you still see people putting 1500 watt PSUs in systems that don't draw more than 500 watts. Makes you wonder why they bother.


I use an Evga G2 1300w with my OC'd 6700k and single 980 Ti.

By my estimates I should be pulling around 1100w at 100% load.










Just kidding









I came from a trifire 7950 setup so my PSU just followed me to my new build.


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> I use an Evga G2 1300w with my OC'd 6700k and single 980 Ti.
> 
> By my estimates I should be pulling around 1100w at 100% load.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just kidding
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I came from a trifire 7950 setup so my PSU just followed me to my new build.


lol yeah that makes sense, can't see getting rid of it. Just amazes me sometimes the builds I see with 1200 to 1500 watt PSU's. Oh well to each his own.


----------



## pez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rfarmer*
> 
> So true especially last several generations by Intel and nVidia have greatly reduced power consumption. Yet you still see people putting 1500 watt PSUs in systems that don't draw more than 500 watts. Makes you wonder why they bother.


I kinda fall into that category







.

I had a GTX 780 I bought brand new not long after they released and was so excited to get a second and then BIOS mod it so that it drew all that glorious power.....and then it died on me twice







.

EVGA replaced it with a GTX970 and I added another one on top not long ago....I draw maybe 600w at load with max power target. So yeah...I keep the PSU because it followed me and it's super efficient







.


----------



## slamminuk

Just come across this thread and thought I'd add my old setup which was in a Phanteks Enthoo Pro ATX Full Tower case. I've since scaled down to a Phanteks Enthoo Luxe as in my signature.


----------



## luukelbo

Had a productive day

Made a vent in the top panel for my h100i with a 240 fan guard.
Painted my front panel White.

















Verstuurd vanaf mijn Nexus 6 met Tapatalk


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *luukelbo*
> 
> Had a productive day
> 
> Made a vent in the top panel for my h100i with a 240 fan guard.
> Painted my front panel White.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Verstuurd vanaf mijn Nexus 6 met Tapatalk


What kind of difference did you see in cpu temps?


----------



## orbitalwalsh

just about fits in











found this case to be better suits then the NZXT S340


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *luukelbo*
> 
> Had a productive day
> 
> Made a vent in the top panel for my h100i with a 240 fan guard.
> Painted my front panel White.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Verstuurd vanaf mijn Nexus 6 met Tapatalk


I like the white front, but the screws and nuts stick up like sore thumbs on what was a smooth case design. You did a good job.







I just don't like the looks.


----------



## pez

Yeah, I like that white front panel on black, too







.


----------



## luukelbo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rfarmer*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *luukelbo*
> 
> Had a productive day
> 
> Made a vent in the top panel for my h100i with a 240 fan guard.
> Painted my front panel White.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Verstuurd vanaf mijn Nexus 6 met Tapatalk
> 
> 
> 
> What kind of difference did you see in cpu temps?
Click to expand...

the cpu temps seem to be about the same, however the case temp seem to have dropped about 2/3 degree

Verstuurd vanaf mijn Nexus 6 met Tapatalk


----------



## luukelbo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *luukelbo*
> 
> Had a productive day
> 
> Made a vent in the top panel for my h100i with a 240 fan guard.
> Painted my front panel White.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Verstuurd vanaf mijn Nexus 6 met Tapatalk
> 
> 
> 
> I like the white front, but the screws and nuts stick up like sore thumbs on what was a smooth case design. You did a good job.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I just don't like the looks.
Click to expand...

I actualy will be putting in some other bolts. The thumbscrews were the only thing i had laying around? i want to flush Mount All off them and then Re-paint the fan grill becouse the finish isn't to nice

Verstuurd vanaf mijn Nexus 6 met Tapatalk


----------



## Boost240

Yes! Finally! Tempered Glass, baby!


----------



## Fantomau

My evolv ATX





Waiting for my noctua fans


----------



## Sem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *orbitalwalsh*
> 
> just about fits in
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> found this case to be better suits then the NZXT S340


Nice what type of tubing is that

LRT?


----------



## Boost240

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fantomau*
> 
> My evolv ATX
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Waiting for my noctua fans


Which model are you getting? Did you also get the rubber screw mounts?


----------



## Fantomau

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Boost240*
> 
> Which model are you getting? Did you also get the rubber screw mounts?


3 x NF-A14 iPPC-2000 PWM (1x rear, 2x top)
2 x NF-A14 iPPC-3000 PWM (2x front on h115i)

no i didnt because 2 are going on my h115i in front


----------



## jsc1973

Had a knock on the door this morning, with the FedEx guy bringing me a brand-new Enthoo Pro courtesy of Newegg. Moved in this evening after work.

This was a long time in coming, and there were so many cables and wires in my old case that I could no longer use it without restricting the airflow inside (it's an older Antec model and cable management in this case is literally nonexistent). This is what I was dealing with:



Anyway, I unboxed the Enthoo Pro and started working with it, and I am extremely impressed. This is an awfully nice case to be had for $97 shipped, and I wish I had gotten one a year and a half ago when I first considered it. This case cost less than my Antec SX1040B did 15 years ago, and it's built every bit as well. It took me about two hours to get everything moved over and route all of the cables behind the board, and I ended up with this:



Only thing is that I wish they provided the PSU cover along with the windowless model; it's not a big deal but it would help a little. I actually have more use for that than I do the HDD case, which I removed since my internal drives are actually four 3.5" drives, two SSD's and two mobile HDD's. I mounted those in two of the 5.25" bays with the help of two Icy Dock Flex-Fit Trios from my old build, and just pulled the HDD case out for better airflow.

Thanks to dlewbell for responding to me on the thread earlier when I asked about the Enthoo Pro, and to Liranan for his post a few weeks ago on his experience with the case as well.







I've tried other cases before and always gone back to the Antec. This one's a keeper.


----------



## pez

You've still got lots of room in there. Time to work on some cable management







.


----------



## jsc1973

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pez*
> 
> You've still got lots of room in there. Time to work on some cable management
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


If you're referring to the old case, there wasn't any. It was made in 2001! I bought it from Newegg in the year that they opened for business. Back then, there was no such thing as cable management. Cable management became a "thing" not long after that, when people started buying cases with side windows. I kept using it because I could never find anything else that did the job better; even with the rat's nest of cables, it was still easier to work in than anything else I tried.

I've never particularly cared one way or the other about how the interior of a PC looks, but I do care about airflow, and that old case was seriously restricting it with all of the hardware that's in there--four HDD/SSDs, an optical drive, a memory card reader, and three PCI/PCIe cards besides the video.


----------



## orbitalwalsh

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sem*
> 
> Nice what type of tubing is that
> 
> LRT?


Tygon


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fantomau*
> 
> 3 x NF-A14 iPPC-2000 PWM (1x rear, 2x top)
> 2 x NF-A14 iPPC-3000 PWM (2x front on h115i)
> 
> no i didnt because 2 are going on my h115i in front


Don't be surprised if they are noisier than you hoped they would be. They are industrial fans, not consumer fans And make more noise at low at same rpms as their consumer counterparts.

The H115 radiator is extremely dense and requires stupid pressure and air speed to cool. Combined with a pump that at full speed moves at best about 1/3 of what even cheap component pumps move at an idle and you have a fubar.

]
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jsc1973*
> 
> If you're referring to the old case, there wasn't any. It was made in 2001! I bought it from Newegg in the year that they opened for business. Back then, there was no such thing as cable management. Cable management became a "thing" not long after that, when people started buying cases with side windows. I kept using it because I could never find anything else that did the job better; even with the rat's nest of cables, it was still easier to work in than anything else I tried.
> 
> I've never particularly cared one way or the other about how the interior of a PC looks, but I do care about airflow, and that old case was seriously restricting it with all of the hardware that's in there--four HDD/SSDs, an optical drive, a memory card reader, and three PCI/PCIe cards besides the video.


I think Pez is referring to the flat black cable and the GPU power cables which can easily be fed through grommet directly in front of PSU and back through grommets to the right of motherboard for a cleaner look.









You've done a very nice job, but we are perfectionists to the extreme here.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fantomau*
> 
> 3 x NF-A14 iPPC-2000 PWM (1x rear, 2x top)
> 2 x NF-A14 iPPC-3000 PWM (2x front on h115i)
> 
> no i didnt because 2 are going on my h115i in front


Ah, building a convection oven. Thankfully, since you aren't using liquid cooling you'll have plenty of room to use the PSU cover as a cooking rack. A small chicken should fit nicely, and should cook in about the same time as your GPU.









Two things - first, you are going to need to isolate the top exhaust fans or you really will be building a convection oven. If you don't block off the openings in the radiator tray up top, you won't have any exhaust from the top - it will simply keep dumping the air back down into the case. It will be making a ton of noise and not doing anything.

Second - a Swiftech H240-X2 would have cost you less than the H115i plus the two Noctua fans, and made the rest of the Noctua fan purchases (even more) unnecessary.







And, since it is pretty obvious that you are building with form over function, the Swiftech certainly would have looked a lot better as a bonus.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Ah, building a convection oven. Thankfully, since you aren't using liquid cooling you'll have plenty of room to use the PSU cover as a cooking rack. A small chicken should fit nicely, and should cook in about the same time as your GPU.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Two things - first, you are going to need to isolate the top exhaust fans or you really will be building a convection oven. If you don't block off the openings in the radiator tray up top, you won't have any exhaust from the top - it will simply keep dumping the air back down into the case. It will be making a ton of noise and not doing anything.
> 
> Second - a Swiftech H240-X2 would have cost you less than the H115i plus the two Noctua fans, and made the rest of the Noctua fan purchases (even more) unnecessary.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And, since it is pretty obvious that you are building with form over function, the Swiftech certainly would have looked a lot better as a bonus.


No need to be nice about it. Come-on, lay it all out on the line! I'll even bring the beer to this barbecue.








Have to admit, I never thought of using GPU overheat alarm as timer for when chicken is ready.


----------



## Fantomau

i might get this Swiftech H240-X2 Prestige


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fantomau*
> 
> i might get this Swiftech H240-X2 Prestige


I was just editing my previous post to say we mean no disrespect. We just are so fed up with all the CLC hype and how many have fallen prey to it.

Indeed, the Swiftech H240-X2 or Prestige will do a much better job of cooler and be much quieter doing it .. not to mention how much the better quality and efficiency are.


----------



## Fantomau

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> I was just editing my previous post to say we mean no disrespect. We just are so fed up with all the CLC hype and how many have fallen prey to it.
> 
> Indeed, the Swiftech H240-X2 or Prestige will do a much better job of cooler and be much quieter doing it .. not to mention how much the better quality and efficiency are.


CLC hype?


----------



## Fantomau

how about the ekwb 240 predator?


----------



## pez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fantomau*
> 
> CLC hype?


All of the CLCs from the big name companies. Companies who sell products that aren't actually designed or manufactured by them, but make them seem like the holy grail of all PC components.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fantomau*
> 
> CLC hype?


CLC is Closed Loop Cooler. When Asetek first patented they called them LCLC for Low Cost Liquid Cooler (or Cooling). What they patented was the concept of a pump on waterblock, but they were not the first to do it, just the ones who patented the rights to it.

AIO is All in One. All CLCs are part of the AIO group, but not all AIOs are CLCs. Swiftech and EK are not sealed, use much better compoents, can be expanded, and if a component does go bad it can be replaced. When a CLC compoent goes bad, you have to throw the system away and get a new one. Compound this with the difference in component quality with things like cheap all aluminum raidator, ultra low powered low flow pump, cheap high speed loud fans, poor mounting system, etc. and you have more of a garbage loop than a liquid cooling lop.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fantomau*
> 
> how about the ekwb 240 predator?


While it's better than CLC, it is not as good as Swiftech loops.

@ciarlatano is more qualified to answer these questions than me.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pez*
> 
> All of the CLCs from the big name companies. Companies who sell products that aren't actually designed or manufactured by them, but make them seem like the holy grail of all PC components.


All CLCs, not just the big name companies. There is not a CLC out there that can compare to Swiftech Hxxx xx series in quality or performance .. none.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fantomau*
> 
> how about the ekwb 240 predator?


Louder and more expensive than the H240-X2, and does not cool nearly as well (the Predator 320 would actually be the more comparable unit). Also doesn't look nearly as good in the case. And if you ever plan on expanding....the Swiftech has a better pump, and is much easier to fill and bleed.

But still a world better than a CLC.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fantomau*
> 
> CLC hype?


Yes, hype. The nonsensical ramblings of teens and marketing that make you believe that higher temps with more noise for more money is a better thing, and that running rad fans as intake with the rest of your system air cooled is a great thing to do.....because, you know, it has tubes and an RGB lightup sailboat!


----------



## Fantomau

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> @ciarlatano is more qualified to answer these questions than me.
> All CLCs, not just the big name companies. There is not a CLC out there that can compare to Swiftech Hxxx xx series in quality or performance .. none.


whats the differences in the x2 and prestige


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fantomau*
> 
> whats the differences in the x2 and prestige


Prestige uses Swiftech Lok Seal black chrome compression fittings and Noiseblocker NB-eLoop fans


----------



## Fantomau

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rfarmer*
> 
> Prestige uses Swiftech Lok Seal black chrome compression fittings and Noiseblocker NB-eLoop fans


it also has a button to change colors in the window


----------



## Sem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *orbitalwalsh*
> 
> Tygon


look good i have Onyx Black LRT and that one looks darker and less "shiney"

or maybe its just the camera


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fantomau*
> 
> whats the differences in the x2 and prestige


what @rfarmer said.

The fittings look nicer, but the real difference to me is the NB-eLoop fans move more air, so at full speed cool better.

As for the lighting I don't know. Their specs do not show this.


----------



## Fantomau

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> what @rfarmer said.
> 
> The fittings look nicer, but the real difference to me is the NB-eLoop fans move more air, so at full speed cool better.
> 
> As for the lighting I don't know. Their specs do not show this.


look on the small fan hub



the small black button changes colors - http://www.swiftech.org/Installation_guides/Quick%20Installation%20Guide%20Hxx2%20series.pdf


----------



## arg0n

what do you people think about my enthoo primo :

and I ' m adding a 2nd 480 bottom rad. that i have got from a man for only 30€.. a great deal .

always wanting a 2x 480 in my case.

http://i.imgur.com/ceImPUX.jpg


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fantomau*
> 
> look on the small fan hub
> 
> 
> 
> the small black button changes colors - http://www.swiftech.org/Installation_guides/Quick%20Installation%20Guide%20Hxx2%20series.pdf


I'm pretty sure all X2 series have this on fan hub.


----------



## Fantomau

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> I'm pretty sure all X2 series have this on fan hub.


they do

this is my setup right now


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fantomau*
> 
> they do
> 
> this is my setup right now


The reason I'm questioning you about this is the link you posted is to installation guide for all Swiftech X2 series, not just X2 Prestige.









Nice looking setup!


----------



## orbitalwalsh

and so begins fun with the Hue+ , all four strips nicely tuck into the edges of the P400 and remain hidden when the panel is on







Just got to get the MSI lighting to listen to my commands !

Top twin 140mm are a god send and expels the heat from both rads nicely

cable management just to go







New fav case


----------



## Fantomau

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> The reason I'm questioning you about this is the link you posted is to installation guide for all Swiftech X2 series, not just X2 Prestige.


yes i know this so theres no reason to question me


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fantomau*
> 
> yes i know this so theres no reason to question me


You know what? So far what you claim is not being support by the link you posted to 'Quick Installation Guide' is for 'All X2 Series', which indicates all are have this, not just Prestige.

So why should I believe what you say and not question you? You are not God, so I have every right to want evidence to support what you say and give nothing to support it?


----------



## Fantomau

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> You know what? So far what you claim is not being support by the link you posted to 'Quick Installation Guide' is for 'All X2 Series', which indicates all are have this, not just Prestige.
> 
> So why should I believe what you say and not question you? You are not God, so I have every right to want evidence to support what you say and give nothing to support it?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> You know what? So far what you claim is not being support by the link you posted to 'Quick Installation Guide' is for 'All X2 Series', which indicates all are have this, not just Prestige.
> 
> So why should I believe what you say and not question you? You are not God, so I have every right to want evidence to support what you say and give nothing to support it?


what do i claim?

i know all the x2 series has the button to change the colors

this was mine a few months ago



the link was just to show the button changes colors because you stated As for the lighting I don't know. Their specs do not show this. was just simply pointing that out is all

and your not god either









thats the only reason i posted that - thats all


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fantomau*
> 
> what do i claim?
> 
> i know all the x2 series has the button to change the colors
> 
> this was mine a few months ago
> 
> 
> 
> the link was just to show the button changes colors because you stated As for the lighting I don't know. Their specs do not show this. was just simply pointing that out is all
> 
> and your not god either
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> thats the only reason i posted that - thats all


Okay, now I see what has happened.
First you post up asking
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fantomau*
> 
> whats the differences in the x2 and prestige


And rfarmer replied
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rfarmer*
> 
> Prestige uses Swiftech Lok Seal black chrome compression fittings and Noiseblocker NB-eLoop fans


Then you posted
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fantomau*
> 
> it also has a button to change colors in the window


*The discussing was about the differences between normal X2 and X2 Prestige.*
Sense you were asking about the differneces I interpreted your reply as being a difference between normal X2 and X2 Prestige.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fantomau*
> 
> this was mine a few months ago
> 
> 
> 
> the link was just to show the button changes colors because you stated As for the lighting I don't know. Their specs do not show this. was just simply pointing that out is all
> 
> and your not god either
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> thats the only reason i posted that - thats all


Wait.....you were planning on going from a Swiftech to a CLC? That would be one rude awakening.......


----------



## pez

I think I may add that to my wishlist. Has anyone here put one in the front of an Evolv ATX or Pro M? Tubing appears to be 15" by these measurements and that looks to fit just fine should the tubing be at the top...which it'd have to to fit properly it seems. I'm not finding any pictures via Googling







.

I see extra tubing is available on their site, so that's ultimately not an issue, but I wouldn't be fond of making that adjustment to an already pricey piece of kit.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pez*
> 
> I think I may add that to my wishlist. Has anyone here put one in the front of an Evolv ATX or Pro M? Tubing appears to be 15" by these measurements and that looks to fit just fine should the tubing be at the top...which it'd have to to fit properly it seems. I'm not finding any pictures via Googling
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> I see extra tubing is available on their site, so that's ultimately not an issue, but I wouldn't be fond of making that adjustment to an already pricey piece of kit.


Why in the front? Your GPU and VRM along with every other component in your system will hate you.








Plus the res will be hidden.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pez*
> 
> I think I may add that to my wishlist. Has anyone here put one in the front of an Evolv ATX or Pro M? Tubing appears to be 15" by these measurements and that looks to fit just fine should the tubing be at the top...which it'd have to to fit properly it seems. I'm not finding any pictures via Googling
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> I see extra tubing is available on their site, so that's ultimately not an issue, but I wouldn't be fond of making that adjustment to an already pricey piece of kit.


Put it in the top like this.


Your GPU and other air cooled things will love you for not cooking them.


----------



## pez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Why in the front? Your GPU and VRM along with every other component in your system will hate you.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Plus the res will be hidden.


Just thinking out loud. My GPU runs pretty cool as it is







. The GTX 1080 really is a nice, cool card







.

Jokes aside, I like the aesthetic of a front mounted rad, but I did think about the added heat. I was thinking in terms the Evolv ATX as it's restrictive at the top. Not that I even have that case....so who knows. I'm just tired, ok?!


----------



## doyll

Hey! You can have ciarlatano or me being nice to you, but you can't have both!


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pez*
> 
> Just thinking out loud. My GPU runs pretty cool as it is
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . The GTX 1080 really is a nice, cool card
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> Jokes aside, I like the aesthetic of a front mounted rad, but I did think about the added heat. I was thinking in terms the Evolv ATX as it's restrictive at the top. Not that I even have that case....so who knows. I'm just tired, ok?!


It's actually not as restrictive at the top as most assume. I run a Nemesis 360GTS with three F120MP on the top with no issues. Taking the top completely off and running AIDA64 or x264 for a couple of hours straight yields only a couple of degree difference on loop components, and how often does one do that, and does a two degree difference while doing that even matter? During normal usage.....no difference.


----------



## pez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> It's actually not as restrictive at the top as most assume. I run a Nemesis 360GTS with three F120MP on the top with no issues. Taking the top completely off and running AIDA64 or x264 for a couple of hours straight yields only a couple of degree difference on loop components, and how often does one do that, and does a two degree difference while doing that even matter? During normal usage.....no difference.


Good to know! I'm assuming you have the fans in a push configuration? Do you think it would matter?


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pez*
> 
> Good to know! I'm assuming you have the fans in a push configuration? Do you think it would matter?


They are in a push configuration - how much that matters varies by fans and rad. However, the most important thing in the Evolv ATX tends to be isolating the front and back of the rad - in other words, blocking all of the open holes in the radiator mounting plate. If you don't do it, warm air from the rad just keeps recirculating and never exhausts.


----------



## pez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> They are in a push configuration - how much that matters varies by fans and rad. However, the most important thing in the Evolv ATX tends to be isolating the front and back of the rad - in other words, blocking all of the open holes in the radiator mounting plate. If you don't do it, warm air from the rad just keeps recirculating and never exhausts.


That definitely makes sense. I know you may have mentioned it before, but what are you (guys) using to do that?


----------



## dainfamous

I dont think you can run a 3 fan push with an swiftech h320x sitting at the top of an EVOLV or PRO M. 2 fans push but not 3 correct? Just the way the swiftech is constructed.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dainfamous*
> 
> I dont think you can run a 3 fan push with an swiftech h320x sitting at the top of an EVOLV or PRO M. 2 fans push but not 3 correct? Just the way the swiftech is constructed.


You could run three fans in push as intake, but not as exhaust. The push/pull question was in regards to a Nemesis 360GTS, not a Swiftech.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pez*
> 
> That definitely makes sense. I know you may have mentioned it before, but what are you (guys) using to do that?


I used self-adhesive 3M material like this - https://www.amazon.com/3M-08840-Sound-Deadening-1-pad/dp/B005RNGRMU/

I should note that there isn't much to cover when you use a 360mm. The effect is much larger with 240/280mm rads.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dainfamous*
> 
> I dont think you can run a 3 fan push with an swiftech h320x sitting at the top of an EVOLV or PRO M. 2 fans push but not 3 correct? Just the way the swiftech is constructed.


Indeed, 3 fans cannot be mounted on pump side of Hxxx X2 raidators
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> You could run three fans in push as intake, but not as exhaust. The push/pull question was in regards to a Nemesis 360GTS, not a Swiftech.


Why not? Fans are on top of radiator pulling air up and out should work as well as having them pushing air in. I would thing pulling air out would keep another backed chicken frqanchise from getting started.







I'm sure it's a little more tedious running screws through mounting plate, fans and then into radiator, but not that big a deal.


----------



## pez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> You could run three fans in push as intake, but not as exhaust. The push/pull question was in regards to a Nemesis 360GTS, not a Swiftech.
> I used self-adhesive 3M material like this - https://www.amazon.com/3M-08840-Sound-Deadening-1-pad/dp/B005RNGRMU/
> 
> I should note that there isn't much to cover when you use a 360mm. The effect is much larger with 240/280mm rads.


Cool, that's good to know.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Indeed, 3 fans cannot be mounted on pump side of Hxxx X2 raidators
> 
> Why not? Fans are on top of radiator pulling air up and out should work as well as having them pushing air in. I would thing pulling air out would keep another backed chicken frqanchise from getting started.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm sure it's a little more tedious running screws through mounting plate, fans and then into radiator, but not that big a deal.


I meant that you can't run three fans as push and exhaust. Pull exhaust, sure.

I'm telling you, my chicken is gonna be bigger than KFC. Sailboat basted for extra dB-liciousness!


----------



## dmfree88

Got the Enthoo Pro M with acryllic window and it looks sweet! Had a couple minor issues and it barely fit the PH-TC14PE but it looks pretty sweet finished. Will post some pictures when I get a chance, one photo shown in my sig-rig. Unfortunately I sent back the Asus mobo twice and now have a ASRock Extreme4 which has been outstanding for performance but is completely the wrong color. Cant really see it behind the cooler though haha. Impressed with the fans and the cooler as well. Case has a few issues but overall impressed with Phanteks across the board.


----------



## sl4ppy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *orbitalwalsh*
> 
> and so begins fun with the Hue+ , all four strips nicely tuck into the edges of the P400 and remain hidden when the panel is on
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just got to get the MSI lighting to listen to my commands !
> 
> Top twin 140mm are a god send and expels the heat from both rads nicely
> 
> cable management just to go
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> New fav case


I did Hue+ as well.. Added additional strips behind the front plate to make it glow from behind.. The plastic box that redirect the LED light to the front light panel blocks the light leakage on the front bottom right.. I need to rig something to block it on the front bottom left as well.


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Just posting to say that I'm very impressed with the dust filters on the Enthoo Primo. After a couple weeks there is almost no dust in the computer. With my old test bench I would already have collected a nice amount of dust on the radiator. I'm guessing that the positive pressure in the case with all rads intaking and the rear fan exhausting helps too. Holding up very well. Nice to see the CPU and GPU max out at 41C after hours of gaming. For the first time in a long long while I'm actually satisfied with my computer. Now to enjoy it!


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmfree88*
> 
> Got the Enthoo Pro M with acryllic window and it looks sweet! Had a couple minor issues and it barely fit the PH-TC14PE but it looks pretty sweet finished. Will post some pictures when I get a chance, one photo shown in my sig-rig. Unfortunately I sent back the Asus mobo twice and now have a ASRock Extreme4 which has been outstanding for performance but is completely the wrong color. Cant really see it behind the cooler though haha. Impressed with the fans and the cooler as well. Case has a few issues but overall impressed with Phanteks across the board.


internet 101: pics or it didn't happen.


----------



## pez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmfree88*
> 
> Got the Enthoo Pro M with acryllic window and it looks sweet! Had a couple minor issues and it barely fit the PH-TC14PE but it looks pretty sweet finished. Will post some pictures when I get a chance, one photo shown in my sig-rig. Unfortunately I sent back the Asus mobo twice and now have a ASRock Extreme4 which has been outstanding for performance but is completely the wrong color. Cant really see it behind the cooler though haha. Impressed with the fans and the cooler as well. Case has a few issues but overall impressed with Phanteks across the board.


Took a look at the photos, and I'm guessing you had trouble getting the fans in with the cooler installed?

Also, if I was to make a suggestion, you could honestly get away with 2x140 front intake fans and a single exhaust at the rear. I'm running this setup and in gaming situations, I'm literally not seeing over 63C on my CPU while OC'ed. Only difference is I have a D15 vs your TCP-14.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PureBlackFire*
> 
> internet 101: pics or it didn't happen.


Well he did post photos in his sig rig as he said







.


----------



## jsc1973

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> I think Pez is referring to the flat black cable and the GPU power cables which can easily be fed through grommet directly in front of PSU and back through grommets to the right of motherboard for a cleaner look.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You've done a very nice job, but we are perfectionists to the extreme here.


Gotcha. You have to be, to notice that I left the GPU cable out front. I was just wanting to get it up and running last night. There are a few things I'll have to change inside there in the near future, and I'll reroute those two cables when I do. Until I do, it's a windowless Enthoo Pro and the only way anyone's going to see my cabling is if I take a picture of it and post it. It looks like this right now:



What I'm really interested in seeing is how much the thermal margin on the 870K improves the next time I crank it up. It reaches 4.7 GHz stable, but runs very close to its thermal limits even with the big air cooler at those settings.


----------



## Toan

I've downsized from my Primo to an EVOLV and so far I'm loving the change. I also did a little upgrade to Skylake while I was at it.


----------



## pez

Oh I'm just a perfectionist, so don't mind me







. Don't let my suggestions be of any offense because one, they're just suggestions, and two, they're ultimately just my opinion







.

You'd feel better if you could see my case right now. I have to remove my motherboard to get my PCI-e cables cleaned up. I went from GTX 970 SLI to a single GTX 1080...i.e. 4 x 6-pin PCIE cables to a single 8 pin...so yeah







.

EDIT:

Very nice looking setup there, Toan!


----------



## dmfree88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pez*
> 
> Took a look at the photos, and I'm guessing you had trouble getting the fans in with the cooler installed?
> 
> Also, if I was to make a suggestion, you could honestly get away with 2x140 front intake fans and a single exhaust at the rear. I'm running this setup and in gaming situations, I'm literally not seeing over 63C on my CPU while OC'ed. Only difference is I have a D15 vs your TCP-14.
> Well he did post photos in his sig rig as he said
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


I was considering switching to positive pressure for the reduced dust but also because of the insanely close gap:

The top fans are damn near part of the heatsink. No fingers in here







. Strictly screwdriver. I could have put the upper fans on afterwards but the cage is a pain so I left it in. The Asus motherboard actually positioned the CPU a little lower so I had slightly more room but probably only a mm or 2mm difference. The other issue I came across is it does not properly mount 2x140mm fans that have 120mm fan mounting holes on the top with the CD drive. I dont feel like pulling it out again to show a picture of the issue but I could only get 3 screws in and had to slightly turn the fan to get it on, I shoved a wedge in the final corner to prevent any noise. The DVD drive is literally touching the fan and is exactly aligned with the front of the case. Even a mm bigger fan or DVD drive and neither would have fit.

I was also fairly irritated that the fans on the top dont actually align with or come anywhere near the top of the case. The airflow through there can not be very good with such large gaps in every angle (Unless this actually helps suck air from behind the motherboard which could be beneficial performance-wise). Was hoping to add LED to all the fans but now it seems it wouldnt look great. Also noticed one of the front fans has the lines for the front panel ports going across it and is not really re-routable making the front fans pretty much a no-go for looking good with LED as well. I kinda wanted the LED to shine through the top and the front but again it just wont look good being obstructed so much on both ends.



Looks good I suppose just came with some minor irritations. I like that its fairly compact but still holds the muscle. I think my next case will be a cube or something to bring down the size smaller and use even less fans.

As far as performance I pushed 5.0ghz at 1.4v I only ran IBT 10 times on normal to check for stability and reached 91c max. Might have been able to do lower voltage but I really had no reason to be at 5.0ghz except to screw around so I am going to avoid degrading my CPU as best as possible while still having a little fun









http://valid.x86.fr/9qmcdm

I actually still had turbo boost enabled which pushed 101.9 bus clock during stressing but didnt show it during cpu-z validation (so was actually almost 5.1ghz)



Daily OC is now at 4.8ghz 1.232v with a low noise profile on the fans I peak at 70c during bench/stressing and have been gaming and working (rendering graphics) under 50c.


(4.8ghz)

So far this CPU has been rock solid stable and the motherboard as well. I am super impressed with both.


----------



## orbitalwalsh

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sl4ppy*
> 
> I did Hue+ as well.. Added additional strips behind the front plate to make it glow from behind.. The plastic box that redirect the LED light to the front light panel blocks the light leakage on the front bottom right.. I need to rig something to block it on the front bottom left as well.


looks awesome









was speaking with NZXT and they intend to do a lot more with the Hue+. the Custom profile tab is aweful and not really custom and i think an option to control voltage to dim down the lights maybe an option in future


----------



## pez

Yep, that's the type of gap I had with the TCP14 in the Evolv ITX. I figured I'd mention the fan idea as I'm not sure the config you necessarily have set up either (i.e. what's intake/what's exhaust).
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *orbitalwalsh*
> 
> looks awesome
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> was speaking with NZXT and they intend to do a lot more with the Hue+. the Custom profile tab is aweful and not really custom and i think an option to control voltage to dim down the lights maybe an option in future


That'd be cool. My biggest gripe with RGB LEDs is that the light doesn't always look ambient like cathodes did. I mean, there's definitely obvious benefits to LEDs over cathodes, but I still want to see if there's a way to cover them with a fogged piece of acrylic to kinda 'tame' the lights.


----------



## dmfree88

I dunno I have a thing about symmetry if it bothers me too much later I might just remove those top fans







. Probably just leave it tho. May flip them if I get too much dust in the case but for now it seems ok. The cooler looks pretty amazing in there though. Need some LED on it somehow. Love the black fans on the Red cooler may also paint the fan shroud black instead of white to match better.

Future mods I may be too lazy to ever accomplish







.

Was also thinking to run water cooled dual GPU on a small loop with the big Air cooled CPU. Could cram this case full of interesting by the time its done if I can get some cash. If I can afford the new PSU + additional GPU + Dual gpu loop I will likely get into a full mod and paint everything including the interior of the case to make it all look good but until then I think I will suffer with how it is. I am happy with it for my first personal and decent intel build.


----------



## dmfree88

Heres a question though what if the fan in the front on the top was set to pull from outside while the one in the back set to push out? Because of how close the heatsink is and how the back fan is at the exit of the heatsink and the front fan is half hanging past the first fan would it actually help air flow to have them set that way?

Like this:


right now as you can see they are both pushing out of the case but the arrows represent what I am thinking might be best?


----------



## jsc1973

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pez*
> 
> Oh I'm just a perfectionist, so don't mind me
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Don't let my suggestions be of any offense because one, they're just suggestions, and two, they're ultimately just my opinion
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> You'd feel better if you could see my case right now. I have to remove my motherboard to get my PCI-e cables cleaned up. I went from GTX 970 SLI to a single GTX 1080...i.e. 4 x 6-pin PCIE cables to a single 8 pin...so yeah
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> EDIT:
> 
> Very nice looking setup there, Toan!


No offense taken. I actually like looking at these, just to see what people do with their rigs. I'm glad this thread is here, because it helped me make a good decision on a case upgrade that was long overdue. It's been a few years since I had to even consider the matter. I've built a handful of computers, but they've all been budget rigs (by OCN standards) built around $30 Rosewill FBM01's, except for two Challengers. I tried a Challenger myself a couple of years ago, but it was too small and too difficult to work inside the case with all of the hardware I installed. Like I said earlier, I should have gotten this case a long time ago, when I first considered it.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmfree88*
> 
> Got the Enthoo Pro M with acryllic window and it looks sweet! Had a couple minor issues and it barely fit the PH-TC14PE but it looks pretty sweet finished. Will post some pictures when I get a chance, one photo shown in my sig-rig. Unfortunately I sent back the Asus mobo twice and now have a ASRock Extreme4 which has been outstanding for performance but is completely the wrong color. Cant really see it behind the cooler though haha. Impressed with the fans and the cooler as well. Case has a few issues but overall impressed with Phanteks across the board.


I have a chopstick wiht a 'V' filed in the end I use to reach into tight places and clip the fan clips onto fins.









I do wonder about your airblow setup.
Top fans are a total waste. Back one is blocked by cooler and front one is stealing the cooler airflow and pulling hot air up off of GPU.
2x PH-F140SP front intake
1x PH-F140SP rear exhaust
Remove all unused PCIe back slot covers (yeah, they are vented, but removal almost doubles airflow)
If it still running hot (it won't be) block the middle top vent and use front top as an additional intake (blocking the middle one stops fan's

airflow from circling
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmfree88*
> 
> Heres a question though what if the fan in the front on the top was set to pull from outside while the one in the back set to push out? Because of how close the heatsink is and how the back fan is at the exit of the heatsink and the front fan is half hanging past the first fan would it actually help air flow to have them set that way?
> 
> Like this:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> right now as you can see they are both pushing out of the case but the arrows represent what I am thinking might be best?


Answered above while you were posting.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jsc1973*
> 
> Gotcha. You have to be, to notice that I left the GPU cable out front. I was just wanting to get it up and running last night. There are a few things I'll have to change inside there in the near future, and I'll reroute those two cables when I do. Until I do, it's a windowless Enthoo Pro and the only way anyone's going to see my cabling is if I take a picture of it and post it. It looks like this right now:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What I'm really interested in seeing is how much the thermal margin on the 870K improves the next time I crank it up. It reaches 4.7 GHz stable, but runs very close to its thermal limits even with the big air cooler at those settings.


Naah, you are just a messy builder.








We are just doing it the right way.








Will be interesting to hear what temps are compared to before.


----------



## pez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> I have a chopstick wiht a 'V' filed in the end I use to reach into tight places and clip the fan clips onto fins.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I do wonder about your airblow setup.
> Top fans are a total waste. Back one is blocked by cooler and front one is stealing the cooler airflow and pulling hot air up off of GPU.
> 2x PH-F140SP front intake
> 1x PH-F140SP rear exhaust
> Remove all unused PCIe back slot covers (yeah, they are vented, but removal almost doubles airflow)
> If it still running hot (it won't be) block the middle top vent and use front top as an additional intake (blocking the middle one stops fan's
> 
> airflow from circling
> Answered above while you were posting.


Haha that's my exact setup in the case







.

Also, I didn't realize the brackets cause that much restriction or had that much effect on the system. Do you have some type of filter back there for dust purposes?


----------



## dmfree88

I dont have any temp issues I was just thinking optimal. Top back fan would be circular even with front fan set to intake and the heatsink blocking the center? I am thinking heat rises and any amount it is hanging over the end of the heatsink it would pull mostly from there. Doesn't it suck air from within the heatsink as well adding to the power of the cooling? Or would I see more benefit putting the fan on the end of heatsink and running 3 fans on the heatsink to directly out? Might be too close to the back of the case fan and prevent gpu air from exiting. The cooler and overall airflow is significant enough I have not had to worry. I dont figure this thing is supposed to cool 5.0ghz+ on a 4790k anyways. Stays plenty cool at 4.8ghz. Laziness may overcome lol.


----------



## dmfree88

I also wonder about that gap as the top fans are like a half inch from the top of the case and a couple inches away from the back. It is a huge area of what I assume would be strange airflow. Not sure where the air from the PSU and back of Mobo circulate through either. Just seems weird.


----------



## pez

I think that's more to offset for radiators that could possible interfere with RAM or mobo chipset heatsinks. But essentially he's saying that you're disrupting the rather natural airflow of the case. Especially since you have a tower cooler that blows to the rear exhaust.


----------



## doyll

The less changes in airflow direction, the less airflow is mixed up and the smoother it flows. It's like having two garden hose nozzles spraying a stream in one direction versus one at a right angle spraying it's stream into the other. Both one direct is a much smoother flow then one breaking up the other.









Take the 'heat rises' out of here!







That is a misnomer at the very least .. really it's a total crock!







'Heat' radiates in all directions. When air is heated it expands and becomes lighter .. when no other forces are in play it will move up as denser / heavier air moves in under it. The key works are 'other forces' .. in our case (no pun) fans. Fan overpower any effect the warming of the air has by a factor of 10 to the nth power.









Restriction is relative ot how much force is being applied. The lower the airflow force, the more restriction anything in the way causes. The volume of airflow also effects the effect of the restriction.

Two fans side by side eat each others' air. The drawing shows and explains it in very simple terms. If you do not want to believe that's your choice, I really don't care.









All that said, air is a fickled witch that often does things we don't expect. There are just too many variables at play and it's too easy to miss one or two that change what we think the result will be. It is often much easier to look at results and work backwards to see why then to predict what result will be.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmfree88*
> 
> I dont have any temp issues I was just thinking optimal. Top back fan would be circular even with front fan set to intake and the heatsink blocking the center? I am thinking heat rises and any amount it is hanging over the end of the heatsink it would pull mostly from there. Doesn't it suck air from within the heatsink as well adding to the power of the cooling? Or would I see more benefit putting the fan on the end of heatsink and running 3 fans on the heatsink to directly out? Might be too close to the back of the case fan and prevent gpu air from exiting. The cooler and overall airflow is significant enough I have not had to worry. I dont figure this thing is supposed to cool 5.0ghz+ on a 4790k anyways. Stays plenty cool at 4.8ghz. Laziness may overcome lol.


You are confusing "optimal" and "I must stuff a fan into every available opening". They are not the same thing. Most of the time they are polar opposites (your case being an example of that).

Yes, hot air is more buoyant than cold air. However, that does not come into play in a case with fans, or in any situation where the pressure of the fan is greater than the buoyancy of hot air.....which would essentially be any air movement at all. Case air moves where it is directed - it makes no difference in the temperature of the air given the temperature difference we are looking at in a case.

Listen to @doyll. You have an airblow mess right now, with limited air_flow_.


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Toan*
> 
> I've downsized from my Primo to an EVOLV and so far I'm loving the change. I also did a little upgrade to Skylake while I was at it.


Very nice build. This is close to what I am planning. How did you mount the top radiator fans above the rad? Have you noticed any negative effects from the low clearance with the roof?


----------



## mindwarper

Hello everyone...
I wanted to ask all of you a question about availability of one of my favourite cases...

It is the enthoo primo case... how surprising, lol








I really need minimum 4x 5.25" bays...
And may go all the way custom water in future so perfect case...

Does anyone know if it's available somewhere in mainland Europe, as I live in the Netherlands???

Thanks for your help!


----------



## anarekist

ENTHOO EVOLV ATX GLASS (silver)

dont mind the awful cable management. on top of a monoprice desktop stand


----------



## kcuestag

Any video out there showing how to remove the front "panel" to clean the front dust filter on an Enthoo Luxe?

I feel like I am going to break the case trying to pull that panel... So I'd rather not.


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> Any video out there showing how to remove the front "panel" to clean the front dust filter on an Enthoo Luxe?
> 
> I feel like I am going to break the case trying to pull that panel... So I'd rather not.






10:13 seconds in. I literally just grabbed the side of the front panel where the LED shines through and pull. it comes right off.


----------



## dmfree88

I understand I was just thinking the heatsink itself would be a buffer to block the circular airflow on the inside. As for the outside then maybe if you put a seperator in the gap between the fans sorta like this horrible photo:


picture the fans flat with a Y seperator inside the case between the top and the fans, the red box represents the heatsink which blocks a little more then half of exhaust and a little less then half of what would be intake. Just a hypothetical but if air were re-routed and blocked off enough could it work?

I will probably just pull the rear fan and switch the front to intake but I figured I would ask, might be able to fab something.


----------



## infinite0180

Hey guys, so a guy sort of local to me is selling an atx evolv that is lightly used... He wants 140$ for it.. Would i be lucky to get a deal like that? I mean i dont need a new case but i dont like to pass up deals that are good.. Opinions?

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## dmfree88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *infinite0180*
> 
> Hey guys, so a guy sort of local to me is selling an atx evolv that is lightly used... He wants 140$ for it.. Would i be lucky to get a deal like that? I mean i dont need a new case but i dont like to pass up deals that are good.. Opinions?


http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811854025

its only $169.99 for new on sale so personally I would say no, not if you don't really need/want it.


----------



## dmfree88

I should say that depends where you live and whether that is a good price for you. If you REALLY want the case it might be worth it.

As far as my question above this photo is a little better depicting what I am saying may possibly work and wonder if the extra gap between the fans and the top of the case would actually help if it were properly sealed?


I doubt it would be a major improvement if it all but I am just curious if a divider made similar to this shape might counter the circular issue?


----------



## Toan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> Very nice build. This is close to what I am planning. How did you mount the top radiator fans above the rad? Have you noticed any negative effects from the low clearance with the roof?


You have to mod the top of the chassis and my temps are actually great, even though there is little room for the air to escape the top of the panel.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PowerK*
> 
> Hi folks.
> 
> I am currently deadlocked between Phanteks Evolv ATX and Corsair 750D. (Fractal Design Define S was on the list but I found out that E-ATX motherboard wouln't fit in it).
> 
> Evolv ATX looks lovely and quality seems to be second to none. And from my understanding, it fits E-ATX motherboard as well.
> 
> However, I am worried about the cooling performance of Evolv ATX. From my reading around communities, it seems that cooling performance of Evolv ATX is not good.
> 
> Components I will be installing are as follows.
> Intel 6950X (Broadwell-E) + Corsair H115i CPU cooler.
> Asus Rampage V Extreme Edition10 (E-ATX motherboard)
> nVIDIA GTX 1080 2-Way SLI
> 4x SSDs
> Corsair AX1500i PSU
> 
> Intel's new 6950X Broadwell-E runs very hot. Hence, I really hope Evolv ATX case provides a good cooling performance. Otherwise, I'll have to opt for Corsair 750D.
> 
> Anyone using X99 systems with 2-Way SLI chime in, comment and share your experience ? Thanks!


Evolv can be a little restrictive in the front and top. As long the fans you will be using are good and provide enough airflow to compensate.
H115i will likely be inefficient to properly cool 6950x, you will want to start watercooling. Go with Swiftech H220/H240/H320-X2 or EK Predator 240/360.
With this much inside you may want to start to think about going full loop.
Now with the PSU you do not need 1500w, not even half that. 850w like EVGA P2 is by far plenty with more than enough to cover any OC.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmfree88*
> 
> I understand I was just thinking the heatsink itself would be a buffer to block the circular airflow on the inside. As for the outside then maybe if you put a seperator in the gap between the fans sorta like this horrible photo:
> 
> 
> picture the fans flat with a Y seperator inside the case between the top and the fans, the red box represents the heatsink which blocks a little more then half of exhaust and a little less then half of what would be intake. Just a hypothetical but if air were re-routed and blocked off enough could it work?
> 
> I will probably just pull the rear fan and switch the front to intake but I figured I would ask, might be able to fab something.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmfree88*
> 
> I should say that depends where you live and whether that is a good price for you. If you REALLY want the case it might be worth it.
> 
> As far as my question above this photo is a little better depicting what I am saying may possibly work and wonder if the extra gap between the fans and the top of the case would actually help if it were properly sealed?
> 
> 
> I doubt it would be a major improvement if it all but I am just curious if a divider made similar to this shape might counter the circular issue?


:sigh:
Using so many fans give air*blow*, not air*flow* .. 1/3rd of front fan is blocked by cooler .. 1/2 of exhaust is blocked by cooler .. top intake is at right angles to cooler intake .. top exhaust is at right angles to cooler exhaust and case back exhaust ..

A rotten egg is still a rotten egg .. colored green, covered in chocolate or even gold .. it just a nice covering on a rotten egg. turd.
Too many fans is too many fans .. doesn't matter how you position them.
Read posts #13665 & #13666 again very carefully. Click 'Ways to Better Cooling' link in my sig and read 5th guide. 1st post is index, click on topic in index to see the article.

What you are doing is this .. .. .. .. .. .. .. causing this
 
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> Evolv can be a little restrictive in the front and top. As long the fans you will be using are good and provide enough airflow to compensate.
> H115i will likely be inefficient to properly cool 6950x, you will want to start watercooling. Go with Swiftech H220/H240/H320-X2 or EK Predator 240/360.
> Now with the PSU you do not need 1500w, not even half that. 850w like EVGA P2 is by far plenty with more than enough to cover any OC.


Yeah, Evolv is "a little restrictive", but all cases are similar. I thought the same when I first looked at Evolv, but after getting one and testing it's airflow I realized the front is no very restrictive. Reason is that while the 5-15mm vent slot around the front cover looks small, it is in fact a rather large amount of area .. add to this the fact there is not mesh or anything else obstructing the airflow means it flows more air than most cases with large front vents having grills and mesh restricting their airflow. I spaced my front panel out 15mm and only got 2c difference in temps .. both components and air going into coolers.

There is no 'likely' between "H115 is" and "inefficient."
CLCs are inefficient full stop.

I know you know I know you know this, but for all those who do not:
CLCs are made of the cheapest quality and lowest possible rated components that can be used and still keep a component at temperatures about the same as a good air cooler.
CLCs cost more than a good air cooler, make way more noise to match a good air cooler's cooling ability, and will only last a fraction as long.

CLC pumps have about the same power to move coolant as a good fan does. A cheap component loop pump uses many times the power of a fan .. and flows many times as much coolant..
CLC radiator are cheaply build aluminum and plastic with densely packed fins (23fpi) . A cheap component loop radiator is copper with loosely packed fins (13fpi).
Complete CLC with pump, hose, fittings, radiator and coolant (everything but fans) weights less then a mid-range component radiator of same size with no fittings or coolant.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mindwarper*
> 
> Hello everyone...
> I wanted to ask all of you a question about availability of one of my favourite cases...
> 
> It is the enthoo primo case... how surprising, lol
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I really need minimum 4x 5.25" bays...
> And may go all the way custom water in future so perfect case...
> 
> Does anyone know if it's available somewhere in mainland Europe, as I live in the Netherlands???
> 
> Thanks for your help!


Just so you know, if you go to Phanteks.com and put your curser on "Where to Buy" you will see a list of places to buy. In Europe Afuture, Azerty and Informatique as sellers in NL (Netherlands).
https://www.afuture.nl/productlist.php?searchstring=phanteks&x=0&y=0
https://azerty.nl/producten/zoek/?scope=artikelen&ZOEKTERMEN=phanteks&zoek=+
http://www.informatique.nl/zoeken/?q=phanteks

Why do you need 4x 5.25" bays? Maybe we can re-think your plans so they are not needed?


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *anarekist*
> 
> 
> 
> ENTHOO EVOLV ATX GLASS (silver)
> 
> dont mind the awful cable management. on top of a monoprice desktop stand


Why is it on stilts? Just curious. Looks nice!


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *infinite0180*
> 
> Hey guys, so a guy sort of local to me is selling an atx evolv that is lightly used... He wants 140$ for it.. Would i be lucky to get a deal like that? I mean i dont need a new case but i dont like to pass up deals that are good.. Opinions?
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmfree88*
> 
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811854025
> 
> its only $169.99 for new on sale so personally I would say no, not if you don't really need/want it.


What dmfree88 said.

It's not much of a 'good deal' but it if it is in perfect 'as new' condition it is $29.99 lower priced than new. Thing is the minute the box is opened, even in a store, the price drops that much or more. And once it has been purchased and used the price is knocked down about twice that much. To be a good deal it needs to about $120 or less.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> Very nice build. This is close to what I am planning. How did you mount the top radiator fans above the rad? Have you noticed any negative effects from the low clearance with the roof?


Simply put, the case is not designed to have fans mounted in the top of the case.

You can mount the fan under the mounting bracket on top of the radiator with no problems
You cannot mount the fans on top with mounting bracket sandwiched between them and radiator.
Unless you want to 'redesign / aka modify the case.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Simply put, the case is not designed to have fans mounted in the top of the case.
> 
> You can mount the fan under the mounting bracket on top of the radiator with no problems
> You cannot mount the fans on top with mounting bracket sandwiched between them and radiator.
> Unless you want to 'redesign / aka modify the case.


Actually, you can physically mount them there.....it just makes it like having a passive rad due to how restricted the airflow is.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Actually, you can physically mount them there.....it just makes it like having a passive rad due to how restricted the airflow is.


No, I cannot!







It would kill me! Gives me heart attack symptoms thinking such idiotic things.







. :

Actually YOU can line 4x 120mm fans on top of case an run them that way too .. or 3x 140mm fans. Now that sounds silly doesn't it .. but it's easier to take them of when YOU figure out they don't do anything but make noise.









But it's about as logical as drilling mounting holes and mounting fans to them with no vent holes .. or standing under a steel flagpole during a lightning storm.I wouldn't recommend doing either.








So why are you even posting that dribble?

















Almost as stupid as Disney World having beaches with "No Swimming" signs because of alligators, but now warning about alligators. Why have a beach to play on if there are alligators in the lake? Any half witted idiot know alligators generally prey on animal at the edge of the water they are in.







Now we have a dead child and grieving family because of Disney World's half warning signs. I hope the sue Disney big time! And the state of Florida should nail Disney for criminal negligence.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> So why are you even posting that dribble?


Because it seems that users are determined to do this, regardless of the fact that they are killing performance. A lot of the builds here are all for show, anyway - absolutely no thought to cooling......in which case you may as well not go through the trouble of mounting those fans stuffed in the top at all.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Because it seems that users are determined to do this, regardless of the fact that they are killing performance. A lot of the builds here are all for show, anyway - absolutely no thought to cooling......in which case you may as well not go through the trouble of mounting those fans stuffed in the top at all.


Kinda like telling a psychopath how a gun works .. knowing he can go shot people?








Sorry, just couldn't resist.








Don't know why I'm being so grumpy today.








I know I pick at you, but that's no call to pick back.


----------



## CastorTroy

Can you guys recommend a reservoir that will mount directly to the mounting holes on the back side of the Primo, without modifying the brackets or mounting holes? I think I'm gonna switch from my 750D, and would like to make that part easy.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CastorTroy*
> 
> Can you guys recommend a reservoir that will mount directly to the mounting holes on the back side of the Primo, without modifying the brackets or mounting holes? I think I'm gonna switch from my 750D, and would like to make that part easy.


I mounted an XSPC Photon 170 in the rear with no added holes.


----------



## anarekist

my place is dusty, i saw a hair about to get sucked in from the bottom front, so i decided to put it up a lil higher to avoid a bit more dust.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *anarekist*
> 
> my place is dusty, i saw a hair about to get sucked in from the bottom front, so i decided to put it up a lil higher to avoid a bit more dust.


Good reason.


----------



## mindwarper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Just so you know, if you go to Phanteks.com and put your curser on "Where to Buy" you will see a list of places to buy. In Europe Afuture, Azerty and Informatique as sellers in NL (Netherlands).
> https://www.afuture.nl/productlist.php?searchstring=phanteks&x=0&y=0
> https://azerty.nl/producten/zoek/?scope=artikelen&ZOEKTERMEN=phanteks&zoek=+
> http://www.informatique.nl/zoeken/?q=phanteks
> 
> Why do you need 4x 5.25" bays? Maybe we can re-think your plans so they are not needed?


Well those shops I know them very well, but it seems no stock everywhere... for the black edition don't like the coloured ones... maybe I will consider them, but black has my preference...

Plus I do need at least 3x 5.25" bays:
One for dvd±rw drive
One for lamptron fan controller touch
One for my 4x USB 3.0 ports and multiple card reader combo unit
One for future use (like bay water reservoir)

And I also like the many many options of the case for water and/or air cooling... but I also feel just more comfortable with a full tower case

So only if I could find stock of the case and a EVGA 1000T2 PSU too...


----------



## paskowitz

That feeling waiting for parts to arrive... not sure if they are going to fit (even though you measured)...


----------



## maskymus

*mindwarper*,
I'd easily sell you mine but I don't live in NL








Currently working on microATX water/air (3 rads) and ATX water/air (2 rads) scratch case design and it's a lot of 3D work:


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



estimated main frame without panels: L * W * H = 355mm * 250mm * 350mm


----------



## iammurphy

Started transferring my system from an anthracite grey evolv atx to my new galaxy silver tempered glass evolv atx. Will post pictures when done. new power supply shows up tomorrow hopefully to finish everything off ! New colour scheme is silver, black, grey, orange and white !


----------



## Boost240

Black Tempered Glass. First custom loop ever! So pumped!


----------



## DONGOTTI

Just got mine today and switched everything over. Sorry for crappy phone pics. Second time building a pc lol.



http://imgur.com/bfjFwRR




http://imgur.com/bfjFwRR


----------



## jodasanchezz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DONGOTTI*
> 
> Just got mine today and switched everything over. Sorry for crappy phone pics. Second time building a pc lol.
> 
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/bfjFwRR
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/bfjFwRR


Hi There,
can u tell me somethings about ur specs temps and noise.
I habe build mine yesterday with 6xscythe glidestream fan (they should be very quiet).
But theyre not as quiet and naot as good performing as i thought.

on an i5 6600k @stock pith passic NH D-15 Temps under gaming load @60°


----------



## DONGOTTI

Overall it's a lot quieter, for me anyways. I don't hear it with the stock fans. I don't know if my temps would be like yours since I'm delidded.

In my old case at 4.8 it got to 70

Specs are:

6700K delidded
Msi z170 m7
NH D15
Msi 980 ti
Samsung 950 512gb
Corsair vengeance 3000mhz RAM


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mindwarper*
> 
> Well those shops I know them very well, but it seems no stock everywhere... for the black edition don't like the coloured ones... maybe I will consider them, but black has my preference...
> 
> Plus I do need at least 3x 5.25" bays:
> One for dvd±rw drive
> One for lamptron fan controller touch
> One for my 4x USB 3.0 ports and multiple card reader combo unit
> One for future use (like bay water reservoir)
> 
> And I also like the many many options of the case for water and/or air cooling... but I also feel just more comfortable with a full tower case
> 
> So only if I could find stock of the case and a EVGA 1000T2 PSU too...


Maybe I'm misinterpreting your reply. It sounds like you are mad. You asked where you could buy and I gave you the places I knew of.
Primo 250 x 650 x 600 mm (W x H x D)
HAF X 230 x 599 x 550 mm (W x H x D)
While . 20 . x 51 . x 50 mm may not sound like much, it is a huge difference when setting side by side. You will find out when you get it just how huge it is. Some owners have had trouble fitting one under their desks (desks are 710 -761mm from floor to top surface .. 50mm top thickness leaves 10 - 60 mm clearance.









Most people are phasing away from 5.25" bays. I would venture to guess most of us no longer use them. I have 3x HDD hot-swap caddy in one of my systems, and my HTPC has a DVD drive, but it hasn't been used in .. I can't remember the last time .. at last 2 years, We live stream or download now.
Few people use DVDs anymore. The few times one is needed a slim extrenal USB one works fine.

Use the motherboard's built in fan controls that regulate fan speed based on airflow needs of components. Once the temperature to speed curve is set you don't have to do anything. Fans idle nice and quiet and only speed up when needed. This really does work better than manual control. As a comparison, do you manually heat your home, or do you have a thermostat that automatically controlled the temperature?

Most of us use a external USB hub that sets on our desks.

Case is plenty big inside for reservoir,

I'm only trying to be helpful by giving you information so you can make better informed decisions. Do whatever makes you happy. If you are not happy, I won't hear you anyway. I'm too far away. I you do complain, I will say "I told you so"


----------



## jodasanchezz

ok thank you, @kcuestag

So my plan with the evolve was an seen in the Picture below.
I testest this configuration yesterday....very disapointing !

Tems on CPU (i5 [email protected] in game ~60°) NH D15 (Passiv)
GPU 780 (@1300mhz) ~83°

And The Noise...not what i want...

Im trying now to Switch the 3 ´120 in the fron to 2 140 beqiet silentwings2----Test
if this will not improfe noise Levels and cooling the 3 120 on top will be changed to 3 120 e Loop B1 as exaust ----Test

and one aditional eloop 140 as exaust on the back is on the way ----Test

I will Post my resaults here when im done

Maybe someone has another good idea how to Make the System as silent as possible .....with a cooling wich is ok.


----------



## mindwarper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *maskymus*
> 
> *mindwarper*,
> I'd easily sell you mine but I don't live in NL
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Currently working on microATX water/air (3 rads) and ATX water/air (2 rads) scratch case design and it's a lot of 3D work:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> estimated main frame without panels: L * W * H = 355mm * 250mm * 350mm


I might be tempted to get your Primo lol








I might have to consider this... lol
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Maybe I'm misinterpreting your reply. It sounds like you are mad. You asked where you could buy and I gave you the places I knew of.
> Primo 250 x 650 x 600 mm (W x H x D)
> HAF X 230 x 599 x 550 mm (W x H x D)
> While . 20 . x 51 . x 50 mm may not sound like much, it is a huge difference when setting side by side. You will find out when you get it just how huge it is. Some owners have had trouble fitting one under their desks (desks are 710 -761mm from floor to top surface .. 50mm top thickness leaves 10 - 60 mm clearance.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Most people are phasing away from 5.25" bays. I would venture to guess most of us no longer use them. I have 3x HDD hot-swap caddy in one of my systems, and my HTPC has a DVD drive, but it hasn't been used in .. I can't remember the last time .. at last 2 years, We live stream or download now.
> Few people use DVDs anymore. The few times one is needed a slim extrenal USB one works fine.
> 
> Use the motherboard's built in fan controls that regulate fan speed based on airflow needs of components. Once the temperature to speed curve is set you don't have to do anything. Fans idle nice and quiet and only speed up when needed. This really does work better than manual control. As a comparison, do you manually heat your home, or do you have a thermostat that automatically controlled the temperature?
> 
> Most of us use a external USB hub that sets on our desks.
> 
> Case is plenty big inside for reservoir,
> 
> I'm only trying to be helpful by giving you information so you can make better informed decisions. Do whatever makes you happy. If you are not happy, I won't hear you anyway. I'm too far away. I you do complain, I will say "I told you so"


Thanks doyll for your message..
I might be mad yes, lol, but I am a bit quirky indeed when it comes to case preferences. I tend to have a preference for bigger cases lol hahha.
Sorry I did not want to upset you; so sorry if I have offended you or anything...

I do want to phase away from 5.25" bays, so I will perhaps try to consolidate some of them, but my 4x USB3.0 ports/ multi memory card unit is a keeper lol








Thanks for your help in this!
Perhaps I am going to redo my shortlist of wanted components


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mindwarper*
> 
> I might be tempted to get your Primo lol
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I might have to consider this... lol
> Thanks doyll for your message..
> I might be mad yes, lol, but I am a bit quirky indeed when it comes to case preferences. I tend to have a preference for bigger cases lol hahha.
> Sorry I did not want to upset you; so sorry if I have offended you or anything...
> 
> I do want to phase away from 5.25" bays, so I will perhaps try to consolidate some of them, but my 4x USB3.0 ports/ multi memory card unit is a keeper lol
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for your help in this!
> Perhaps I am going to redo my shortlist of wanted components


No offense taken. Just wanted to be sure you were okay with the info.








One problem I've had with external bays is when behind a door they can be a hassle to access.
Another option may be to get a 5.25" external 5.25" bay desktop housing similar to this one. Nice looks and would hold your USB 3 & card reader unit.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Vantec-5-25-Inch-Enclosure-Interface-Nst-530S3-Bk/dp/B0093HKFYW


----------



## Avant Garde

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jodasanchezz*
> 
> ok thank you, @kcuestag
> 
> So my plan with the evolve was an seen in the Picture below.
> I testest this configuration yesterday....very disapointing !
> 
> Tems on CPU (i5 [email protected] in game ~60°) NH D15 (Passiv)
> GPU 780 (@1300mhz) ~83°
> 
> And The Noise...not what i want...
> 
> Im trying now to Switch the 3 ´120 in the fron to 2 140 beqiet silentwings2----Test
> if this will not improfe noise Levels and cooling the 3 120 on top will be changed to 3 120 e Loop B1 as exaust ----Test
> 
> and one aditional eloop 140 as exaust on the back is on the way ----Test
> 
> I will Post my resaults here when im done
> 
> Maybe someone has another good idea how to Make the System as silent as possible .....with a cooling wich is ok.


This.

I'm with you on this one. Would like to see some advice from experts in this topic.


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Boost240*
> 
> 
> 
> Black Tempered Glass. First custom loop ever! So pumped!


Nice! No GPU?


----------



## .theMetal

Updates with new fans and sleeved extensions:






Spoiler: Unboxing fans:










I will be running some more tests with the new fans, but just playing some games I can tell they are very quiet out of the box, even at full speed. The fans are very nice, they feel heavy and strong compared to any other fan I've used.


----------



## viperguy212

All these posts are getting me so hyped up lol.

My anthracite Evolve TG comes in today but I'm still waiting on a damn 1080. Thew new MSI+EK block looks really nice. In the meantime I wound up spending $70 on just cable management supplies


----------



## DONGOTTI

So far I'm idling at 27c and stress tests get it to 72c. So it definitely runs a little hotter than my old case but it's acceptable.

Love the glass, makes me feel classy lol!


----------



## Avant Garde

72C for a 6700K *delidded* ? Under that giant air cooler??


----------



## DONGOTTI

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Avant Garde*
> 
> 72C for a 6700K *delidded* ? Under that giant air cooler??


Yeah..I honestly don't know what it should be. Need to just watercool it. Maybe I need to reapply paste?

Is that a bad temp for 4.8?


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mindwarper*
> 
> Hello everyone...
> I wanted to ask all of you a question about availability of one of my favourite cases...
> 
> It is the enthoo primo case... how surprising, lol
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I really need minimum 4x 5.25" bays...
> And may go all the way custom water in future so perfect case...
> 
> Does anyone know if it's available somewhere in mainland Europe, as I live in the Netherlands???
> 
> Thanks for your help!


I have just ordered the case at SiComputers (Primo Red/Black) which also says "not in stock". I will let you know when I get either a "order send" or "can't deliver" message.


----------



## mindwarper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> I have just ordered the case at SiComputers (Primo Red/Black) which also says "not in stock". I will let you know when I get either a "order send" or "can't deliver" message.


Ok perfect for letting me know... keep me posted... maybe I will order one too a black or black/white or black/red one maybe...


----------



## dmfree88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DONGOTTI*
> 
> Yeah..I honestly don't know what it should be. Need to just watercool it. Maybe I need to reapply paste?
> 
> Is that a bad temp for 4.8?


Not really, depends on ambients and voltage required to run at 4.8. I have the same cooler and mine runs similar temps on a 4790k and mine is delidded and lapped. I think I peaked at 69 during 4.8ghz stress testing low fan noise profile but I also have pretty good ambients and a decent chip so low-ish voltage. Seems like you are probably within normal temps for that cooler.


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmfree88*
> 
> Not really, depends on ambients and voltage required to run at 4.8. I have the same cooler and mine runs similar temps on a 4790k and mine is delidded and lapped. I think I peaked at 69 during 4.8ghz stress testing low fan noise profile but I also have pretty good ambients and a decent chip so low-ish voltage. Seems like you are probably within normal temps for that cooler.


It won't hurt to reapply paste. He might as wel try it.

Btw: I can't wait for my Primo to arrive. Feeling excited.


----------



## doyll

Here is a quick guide to Evolv ATX top "conversion" from screwed on to clipped on as well as blocking openings in radiator bracket



Edit: This is now linked in opening post.


----------



## RavageTheEarth

So in an effort to reduce temps a little more in the Primo I just raised the case up a little bit to allow more airflow to come in through the bottom. Can't say if it helped yet, but I've heard that raising it up allows much better airflow.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> So in an effort to reduce temps a little more in the Primo I just raised the case up a little bit to allow more airflow to come in through the bottom. Can't say if it helped yet, but I've heard that raising it up allows much better airflow.


Looks like all you did was increase the airflow area of each end. You need to use block under each foot or just on all 4 corners. Some paint spray can caps, hockey pucks, little brother or nephew's building blocks (steal a 6 from your neighbor's kids), thread spools, even bottle caps will work.


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Looks like all you did was increase the airflow area of each end. You need to use block under each foot or just on all 4 corners. Some paint spray can caps, hockey pucks, little brother or nephew's building blocks (steal a 6 from your neighbor's kids), thread spools, even bottle caps will work.


Yeah that was my original plan, but I couldn't find anything for the individual feet. I'll go out and grab something better this weekend. Still, even this is a nice improvement in airflow.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> Yeah that was my original plan, but I couldn't find anything for the individual feet. I'll go out and grab something better this weekend. Still, even this is a nice improvement in airflow.


Well, at a guess you probably almost doubled the airflow area going under case. The left/filter side has no vents at all.


----------



## michael-ocn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *.theMetal*
> 
> Updates with new fans and sleeved extensions:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Unboxing fans:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I will be running some more tests with the new fans, but just playing some games I can tell they are very quiet out of the box, even at full speed. The fans are very nice, they feel heavy and strong compared to any other fan I've used.


Very clean minimalist looking, that massive cooler obscures everything. You could use a nice blue psu, the silverstone is a good unit, but a blue to match your cooler and cables would be really swanky. That pair of 140s should do a lot better than the 200 that came with the case.

Nice, i like the ramp you made to guide the bottom fan's air up to the gpu's intake area. I'd be curious to know how much of a difference that makes?


----------



## .theMetal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *michael-ocn*
> 
> Very clean minimalist looking, that massive cooler obscures everything. You could use a nice blue psu, the silverstone is a good unit, but a blue to match your cooler and cables would be really swanky. That pair of 140s should do a lot better than the 200 that came with the case.
> 
> Nice, i like the ramp you made to guide the bottom fan's air up to the gpu's intake area. I'd be curious to know how much of a difference that makes?


Thank! I'm thinking I will end up taking the sticker off the power supply just to clean it up. I had the cardboard to direct air towards the gpu, I ended up taking it off because there were more cables down near the power supply after I put the extensions. I didn't see a whole lot of difference with it there. It may be something I re-try later on.


----------



## dmfree88

Took your advice @Doyll and blocked off the rear fan port as well as the front fan port on the top. Switched the remaining fan to intake. Also switched to nano-diamond compound as it tends to test better on these higher pressure coolers. About a 4c improvement so far.

Also added the fan in front of the GPU angled toward the back of the case with the pci slot covers removed, not sure how much or if it will help but I think it looks decent and should hopefully improve GPU cooling. Will know more after a couple days of gaming.


----------



## Shiftstealth

Hey guys,

Do i need a bracket to change the 140mm to 120mm in the front? I've heard that having 140mm fans on a 240mm radiator is bad, and is causing my gtx 980 ti to go to 70c.

Thanks!


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shiftstealth*
> 
> Hey guys,
> 
> Do i need a bracket to change the 140mm to 120mm in the front? I've heard that having 140mm fans on a 240mm radiator is bad, and is causing my gtx 980 ti to go to 70c.
> 
> Thanks!


There is nothing wrong with using 140mm fans. There is another issue if your card is getting to 70C. Simply switching to 120mm fans isn't going to fix that. What case do you have? Also what waterblock do you have for the 980 Ti? Mine doesn't go above 45C.


----------



## Shiftstealth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> There is nothing wrong with using 140mm fans. There is another issue if your card is getting to 70C. Simply switching to 120mm fans isn't going to fix that. What case do you have? Also what waterblock do you have for the 980 Ti? Mine doesn't go above 45C.


I have the phanteks evolv. In my thread people are saying the 140mm could be causing the air to go around the radiator.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1603421/gtx-980-ti-70c-on-xspc-razor-block

Any input will yield rep.

Thanks!


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shiftstealth*
> 
> I have the phanteks evolv. In my thread people are saying the 140mm could be causing the air to go around the radiator.
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1603421/gtx-980-ti-70c-on-xspc-razor-block
> 
> Any input will yield rep.
> 
> Thanks!


I misunderstood your first post, i thought you said you had a 280mm. Have you touched the radiator when the gpu gets that hot? Is the radiator warm to the touch? 120mm fans would be better for that radiator, but i don't think the 140mm fans would make the temps shoot up that high. Put your hand over the fins of the radiator and see if you can feel air coming through.

What GPU block and pump are you using? Does it seem like the pump is maintaining a good flow rate? Maybe try replying the gpu thermal paste?

What temps are your CPU seeing? If CPU temps are good then that would point to something being wrong with the GPU block installation. You use the correct thickness thermal pads on the GPU VRM?


----------



## Shiftstealth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> I misunderstood your first post, i thought you said you had a 280mm. Have you touched the radiator when the gpu gets that hot? Is the radiator warm to the touch? 120mm fans would be better for that radiator, but i don't think the 140mm fans would make the temps shoot up that high. Put your hand over the fins of the radiator and see if you can feel air coming through.
> 
> What GPU block and pump are you using? Does it seem like the pump is maintaining a good flow rate? Maybe try replying the gpu thermal paste?
> 
> What temps are your CPU seeing? If CPU temps are good then that would point to something being wrong with the GPU block installation. You use the correct thickness thermal pads on the GPU VRM?


CPU is 47C in XTU. In between workloads it drops to 40c for a split second. I need to add that this was built for me by ironside because i'm not very watercooling savvy. After XTU stops the CPU goes down to 28c immediately.

Whereas the GPU will go to 55c then every minute it goes up to 63c then every 5 minutes it gets 1c hotter. I did notice a spike of the CPU to 54 or 55c for a split second while playing overwatch then it went right back down to like 35c. Literally the flash of an eye.

After i close overwatch the GPU drops to 66c then 64c then 62c etc to 44c then it drops 1c every minute or 2 back down to 30c. So it seems like the gpu is cooling off really slowly. In my thread i quoted i showed how the paste isn't covering 100% of the gm200 die.

I would love to feel the rads but wont be able to for 9 hours since i'm at work


----------



## michael-ocn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shiftstealth*
> 
> CPU is 47C in XTU. In between workloads it drops to 40c for a split second. I need to add that this was built for me by ironside because i'm not very watercooling savvy. After XTU stops the CPU goes down to 28c immediately.
> 
> Whereas the GPU will go to 55c then every minute it goes up to 63c then every 5 minutes it gets 1c hotter. I did notice a spike of the CPU to 54 or 55c for a split second while playing overwatch then it went right back down to like 35c. Literally the flash of an eye.
> 
> After i close overwatch the GPU drops to 66c then 64c then 62c etc to 44c then it drops 1c every minute or 2 back down to 30c. So it seems like the gpu is cooling off really slowly. In my thread i quoted i showed how the paste isn't covering 100% of the gm200 die.
> 
> I would love to feel the rads but wont be able to for 9 hours since i'm at work


It's all one loop, right? If so, the gpu block is the problem. The cpu is cooling nicely, the gpu is not. I replied on your thread too.


----------



## Shiftstealth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *michael-ocn*
> 
> It's all one loop, right? If so, the gpu block is the problem. The cpu is cooling nicely, the gpu is not. I replied on your thread too.


Thanks, thats what i thought it might be. Did you see my original post in the other thread regarding the paste on the gpu?


----------



## Testing12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PowerK*
> 
> Evolv ATX looks lovely and quality seems to be second to none. And from my understanding, it fits E-ATX motherboard as well.
> 
> Components I will be installing are as follows.
> ...
> Asus Rampage V Extreme Edition10 (E-ATX motherboard)
> ...


Sorry for being a little late with this...

The above stood out to me, because I've been looking at the Asus Rampage V Extreme Edition10 as well and trying to find a suitable case for it.

PowerK, according to Phanteks, the Evolv ATX fits an E-ATX case up to a width of 264mm. The ASUS Rampage V Extreme Edition 10 is 272mm wide. This means the Rampage is 8mm too wide. For many cases, this won't be an issue as the board can just 'overhang' the rubber grommets. However, the Evolv ATX has an angled bend in the metal housing where the rubber grommets begin. Because of this, I'm not real sure the Rampage will fit into the Evolv.
I'm very interested to hear from anyone who has actually and successfully put a board of this width into an Evolv ATX.

Note:

ATX and E-ATX are the same height = 305mm. Also note that the Rampage X Extreme Editiion 10 is not a true E-ATX form.

E-ATX/SSI EEB:

Although true E-ATX is 12 × 13 in (305 × 330 mm) most motherboard manufacturers also refer to motherboards with measurements 12 × 10.1 in (305 × 257 mm), 12 × 10.4 in (305 × 264 mm), 12 × 10.5 in (305 × 267 mm) and 12 × 10.7 in (305 × 272 mm) as E-ATX. While E-ATX and SSI EEB share the same dimensions, the screw holes of the two standards do not all align; rendering them incompatible.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *.theMetal*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Updates with new fans and sleeved extensions:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Unboxing fans:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I will be running some more tests with the new fans, but just playing some games I can tell they are very quiet out of the box, even at full speed. The fans are very nice, they feel heavy and strong compared to any other fan I've used.


Very nice. Who's extensions are they? I'm getting ready to do a build with Phanteks extensions.

Glad the fans are to your liking.


----------



## VulgarDisplay88

So I'm thinking about building a new rig and using the Evolv ATX because I currently have the Evolv MATX and I love it. Going to be using a i7 6850K, MSI X99A Gaming Pro Carbon, EVGA SuperNova P2 1000W, Kingston Savage Black 32GB, Samsung 950 Pro 256GB, Samsung 850 Evo 1TB, WD 4TB Blue and SLI MSI GTX 1080 Gaming X.

I'm looking at the EK Predator for the cooler but I'm not sure if I should go for the 240mm or the 360mm. The 240mm means that I can have 3x120mm fans in the front, 1 in the back and maybe push pull on the radiator if space allows it? From some pics that I have seen the 360mm means that I will have to have 2x120mm in the front and no rear fan but also push pull if space allows it?

Which one do you guys think will be the better setup?

Thanks.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VulgarDisplay88*
> 
> So I'm thinking about building a new rig and using the Evolv ATX because I currently have the Evolv MATX and I love it. Going to be using a i7 6850K, MSI X99A Gaming Pro Carbon, EVGA SuperNova P2 1000W, Kingston Savage Black 32GB, Samsung 950 Pro 256GB, Samsung 850 Evo 1TB, WD 4TB Blue and SLI MSI GTX 1080 Gaming X.
> 
> I'm looking at the EK Predator for the cooler but I'm not sure if I should go for the 240mm or the 360mm. The 240mm means that I can have 3x120mm fans in the front, 1 in the back and maybe push pull on the radiator if space allows it? From some pics that I have seen the 360mm means that I will have to have 2x120mm in the front and no rear fan but also push pull if space allows it?
> 
> Which one do you guys think will be the better setup?
> 
> Thanks.


360...hands down...the difference from two fans to three would be negligible compared to an extra 120mm rad space with a fan


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VulgarDisplay88*
> 
> So I'm thinking about building a new rig and using the Evolv ATX because I currently have the Evolv MATX and I love it. Going to be using a i7 6850K, MSI X99A Gaming Pro Carbon, EVGA SuperNova P2 1000W, Kingston Savage Black 32GB, Samsung 950 Pro 256GB, Samsung 850 Evo 1TB, WD 4TB Blue and SLI MSI GTX 1080 Gaming X.
> 
> I'm looking at the EK Predator for the cooler but I'm not sure if I should go for the 240mm or the 360mm. The 240mm means that I can have 3x120mm fans in the front, 1 in the back and maybe push pull on the radiator if space allows it? From some pics that I have seen the 360mm means that I will have to have 2x120mm in the front and no rear fan but also push pull if space allows it?
> 
> Which one do you guys think will be the better setup?
> 
> Thanks.


Have you looked at the Swiftech H320 X2 or X2 Prestige? It's a 360mm radiator. They also have 240mm and 280mm radiators models. .


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VulgarDisplay88*
> 
> So I'm thinking about building a new rig and using the Evolv ATX because I currently have the Evolv MATX and I love it. Going to be using a i7 6850K, MSI X99A Gaming Pro Carbon, EVGA SuperNova P2 1000W, Kingston Savage Black 32GB, Samsung 950 Pro 256GB, Samsung 850 Evo 1TB, WD 4TB Blue and SLI MSI GTX 1080 Gaming X.
> 
> I'm looking at the EK Predator for the cooler but I'm not sure if I should go for the 240mm or the 360mm. The 240mm means that I can have 3x120mm fans in the front, 1 in the back and maybe push pull on the radiator if space allows it? From some pics that I have seen the 360mm means that I will have to have 2x120mm in the front and no rear fan but also push pull if space allows it?
> 
> Which one do you guys think will be the better setup?
> 
> Thanks.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Have you looked at the Swiftech H320 X2 or X2 Prestige? It's a 360mm radiator. They also have 240mm and 280mm radiators models. .


The Swiftech H240-X2 (280mm) or H320-X2 is a better choice than the Predator. As far as pros, the Swiftech has better performance, less noise, costs less, has a better pump should you decide to expand, is easier to fill and bleed and looks better in the case. Pros for the Predator include....I don't know.....louder fans?


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> The Swiftech H240-X2 (280mm) or H320-X2 is a better choice than the Predator. As far as pros, the Swiftech has better performance, less noise, costs less, has a better pump should you decide to expand, is easier to fill and bleed and looks better in the case. Pros for the Predator include....I don't know.....louder fans?


Quick disconnects*(... that leak)


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> Quick disconnects*(... that leak)


Oh, I forgot about them! And have they finally solved all of the other Predator leak issues? Or are we going with "built in drink dispenser" as a pro?









And before anyone starts with any fanboy comments......I own fairly equal numbers of Swiftech and EK components. I am presently _using_ more EK components than Swiftech. I am not comparing or bashing mfg, I am comparing individual products - and Swiftech is way ahead of EK in this category.


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Oh, I forgot about them! And have they finally solved all of the other Predator leak issues? Or are we going with "built in drink dispenser" as a pro?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And before anyone starts with any fanboy comments......I own fairly equal numbers of Swiftech and EK components. I am presently _using_ more EK components than Swiftech. I am not comparing or bashing mfg, I am comparing individual products - and Swiftech is way ahead of EK in this category.


I think they fixed the issues. The only issue now is user stupidity.

I too have only Swiftech and EK components in my rig. EK fittings are great, as is their coolant.


----------



## VulgarDisplay88

Hmm thanks for the replies but I can't find the Swiftech ones in the UK.


----------



## doyll

I just looked on amazon and found them
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Swiftech-H320-X2-H320-x2-Fan-for/dp/B01AOG1P3U/ref=aag_m_pw_dp?ie=UTF8&m=A21BATRZ4TF8XX

Edit: What cialatano said,
Highflow have them in stock and at lower price €199,95 / £157.01 plus shipping and 10kg is less than £8.00
http://www.highflow.nl/?subcats=Y&pcode_from_q=Y&pshort=Y&pfull=Y&pname=Y&pkeywords=Y&search_performed=Y&q=swiftech+h320x2&dispatch=products.search


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> I think they fixed the issues. The only issue now is user stupidity.
> 
> I too have only Swiftech and EK components in my rig. EK fittings are great, as is their coolant.


They are both great mfg, and both have made some serious clunkers as far as products.

The Predator isn't so much a "clunker" as it is being underdeveloped, and seemingly rushed to market to hit the cash cow as quick as possible. It does worry me that it may point to EK going the way of Corsair, and relying more on brand loyalty than product quality to sell units. That would be seriously disappointing.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VulgarDisplay88*
> 
> Hmm thanks for the replies but I can't find the Swiftech ones in the UK.


highflow.nl will ship to you.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> The Swiftech H240-X2 (280mm) or H320-X2 is a better choice than the Predator. As far as pros, the Swiftech has better performance, less noise, costs less, has a better pump should you decide to expand, is easier to fill and bleed and looks better in the case. Pros for the Predator include....I don't know.....louder fans?


i personally think the predator looks better if you didn't have that horribly colored disconnect...but thats a con also because you cant see fluid levels or air circulating theough the loop so..yeah...i love my h220x though its been pushing beyond its limits for almost two years...swiftech also won my repeat business due to their customer service which i purchased two 290 le blocks a mcp50x and 35x res as well as some various fittings...i currently have an ek 420 rad as well and honestly it feels like a toy compared to the swiftech and the phobya i have


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> They are both great mfg, and both have made some serious clunkers as far as products.
> 
> The Predator isn't so much a "clunker" as it is being underdeveloped, and seemingly rushed to market to hit the cash cow as quick as possible. It does worry me that it may point to EK going the way of Corsair, and relying more on brand loyalty than product quality to sell units. That would be seriously disappointing.


I have to agree with you, I have seen several people determined to use the Predator because it is EK. I used a H220-X in my last build and it was excellent.


----------



## pez

Ordered 2 more 140SPs for the Evolv ITX intake and the white sleeved cable combo by Phanteks for my main build. Going from 4 VGA cabled to one is feeling a bit empty







.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rfarmer*
> 
> I have to agree with you, I have seen several people determined to use the Predator because it is EK.


Yeah, consumers are way underinformed in terms of liquid cooling. EK has become the Corsair of WaCo in terms of blind devotion - but, so far, not in terms of product quality. I'm really hoping they don't go down that Corsair rabbit hole of making their products of lesser and lesser quality while raising prices until they become really expensive, but marginal in terms of quality at best. EK, Swiftech and XSPC are really key players in expanding liquid cooling, I would hate to see any of them go that route.


----------



## michael-ocn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VulgarDisplay88*
> 
> So I'm thinking about building a new rig and using the Evolv ATX because I currently have the Evolv MATX and I love it. Going to be using a i7 6850K, MSI X99A Gaming Pro Carbon, EVGA SuperNova P2 1000W, Kingston Savage Black 32GB, Samsung 950 Pro 256GB, Samsung 850 Evo 1TB, WD 4TB Blue and SLI MSI GTX 1080 Gaming X.
> 
> I'm looking at the EK Predator for the cooler but I'm not sure if I should go for the 240mm or the 360mm. The 240mm means that I can have 3x120mm fans in the front, 1 in the back and maybe push pull on the radiator if space allows it? From some pics that I have seen the 360mm means that I will have to have 2x120mm in the front and no rear fan but also push pull if space allows it?
> 
> Which one do you guys think will be the better setup?
> 
> Thanks.


Swiftech H240-X(2)

A 280x140 rad is close in size to a 360x120, about 10% smaller, and you'd have all the benefits you listed above for a 240mm rad (although 2x 140s in the front works well so i'm not sure i'd want 3x 120s there).


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VulgarDisplay88*
> 
> So I'm thinking about building a new rig and using the Evolv ATX because I currently have the Evolv MATX and I love it. Going to be using a i7 6850K, MSI X99A Gaming Pro Carbon, EVGA SuperNova P2 1000W, Kingston Savage Black 32GB, Samsung 950 Pro 256GB, Samsung 850 Evo 1TB, WD 4TB Blue and SLI MSI GTX 1080 Gaming X.
> 
> I'm looking at the EK Predator for the cooler but I'm not sure if I should go for the 240mm or the 360mm. The 240mm means that I can have 3x120mm fans in the front, 1 in the back and maybe push pull on the radiator if space allows it? From some pics that I have seen the 360mm means that I will have to have 2x120mm in the front and no rear fan but also push pull if space allows it?
> 
> Which one do you guys think will be the better setup?
> 
> Thanks.


Forgot to mention....you do realize that push/pull on a slim rad like the Predator will do nothing but add noise...... Before you decide on anything on liquid cooling, you need to do some research (actual tested facts, not "my temps dropped eleventy billion degrees" forum posts). Take a look through here - http://www.xtremerigs.net/2015/02/11/radiator-round-2015/5/. I know there is a lot to sift through, but when you do, you will find that push/pull on slim rads will change the heat dissipation capabilities by a whopping 7-8%. That might translate to a degree in your liquid temp, which might translate to a half a degree in your component temps. So, you are cluttering your case, dropping $60+ in fans and having a harder time getting components to fit, and all you are getting is more noise.

Liquid cooling is not the best place to be making decisions based wholly on assumptions, or on the say so of other people who are doing it wholly on assumption. Science, physics and math need to be your best friends.


----------



## .theMetal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Very nice. Who's extensions are they? I'm getting ready to do a build with Phanteks extensions.
> 
> Glad the fans are to your liking.


Thanks! These are Bitfenix extensions. I had most of a set on hand already, I just had to get the 24 pin because I ruined the one I had a few years ago tinkering with it. The Silverstone short cable kit works really well with these extensions, because there isn't miles of cable to hide in the back of the case.


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> highflow.nl will ship to you.


Is that true?
I didn't know highflow would ship internationally.









That is actually my go to store (locally).


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> Is that true?
> I didn't know highflow would ship internationally.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That is actually my go to store (locally).


I know they were shipping the original X series to the UK a couple of years ago. Don't know if that has changed.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> Is that true?
> I didn't know highflow would ship internationally.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That is actually my go to store (locally).


The shipping price I quoted was from their site for shipping to UK, so I'm assuming they do.


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> I know they were shipping the original X series to the UK a couple of years ago. Don't know if that has changed.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> The shipping price I quoted was from their site for shipping to UK, so I'm assuming they do.


Alright. Then again, why would'nt they... The uk is nearby


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> Alright. Then again, why would'nt they... The uk is nearby


And part of the reason for EU is easier trading between countries.


----------



## dmfree88

Heard a strange vibration from case. Likely due to the fan I added or closing up the port holes on the top. Also for some reason the top fan was running between 300rpm and 700 rpm no matter what. I finally just pulled it apart and put the fan on a splitter to a different fan header. Now running normally. I also added a small rolled up peice of electrical tape that I taped down to each of these locations shown in red:



Now no vibration noise whatsoever. I realized the acrylic door makes a ton of noise if you touch it at all no matter how tight you get the 4 screws so adding just a few small pieces of electrical tape in the black areas (so unseen) fixed all 4 edges. I think I have finally got my rig done, until I get new GPU, new PSU and watercooling







. Can only hope thats somewhat soon


----------



## theotherspartan

Hello everyone. I recently bought a P400 while it was on sale and I was wondering if anyone here has suggestions in regard to the type of fans I should put in the front for intake.

This will be my first complete build as well as my first experience with a case that doesn't have an open (mesh) front panel. I was wondering whether I should opt for high airflow fans or static pressure fans to best supply my system with air through the filtered openings at the top and bottom of the front panel.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *theotherspartan*
> 
> Hello everyone. I recently bought a P400 while it was on sale and I was wondering if anyone here has suggestions in regard to the type of fans I should put in the front for intake.
> 
> This will be my first complete build as well as my first experience with a case that doesn't have an open (mesh) front panel. I was wondering whether I should opt for high airflow fans or static pressure fans to best supply my system with air through the filtered openings at the top and bottom of the front panel.


Fans have both static pressure and airflow, they can not exist independently.
If you are looking at a fan that says "Air Flow" or "Static Pressure" on the box, put it down and move to the next. There is not a single top tier fan that uses these designations, only lower end fans use this marketing ploy.

That said, you could simply add another F120SP (or two) to the existing, and you would have decent intake. Or, you could opt for two F140SP or F140MP, which would provide essentially the same amount of air movement as three F120SP, and would be quieter doing it. I have always found the dual 140mm to be a better route.


----------



## iammurphy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> Quick disconnects*(... that leak)


It was never the quick disconnects that leaked. They are medical grade and are great. The o-ring used on the block was what leaked. They had a bad batch from their supplier and has been addressed.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iammurphy*
> 
> It was never the quick disconnects that leaked. They are medical grade and are great. The o-ring used on the block was what leaked. They had a bad batch from their supplier and has been addressed.


Ok, so no more built in drink dispenser. Got it.


----------



## clifton

Hi there.
Im planning to buy phanteks case (eclipse 400s) but im not sure that cooler ive picked is gonna fit in (dark rock 3). According to specs of the case and cooler it should fit. Cooler height is 160mm and case max cpu cooler height is also 160mm. Im wondering how accurate these numbers are ? There will be like 0 space between cooler and side of the case ? or maybe theres some clearance ? Anyone got these parts maybe and can tell how is it in reality ?

Oh well one more thing, while im here already ill try my luck








Maybe some of you guys got:

- asus z170 pro gaming
- dark rock 3
- ripjaws 5

Do i have to do any tricks/fixes to fit these mem sticks (dual channel) with this cooler or it just not gonna fit ? Or it will be fine in dual channel but theres like no way to populate all mem slots without raising the fan up...but then im not gonna be able to close the case







choices...choices...


----------



## theotherspartan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Or, you could opt for two F140SP or F140MP, which would provide essentially the same amount of air movement as three F120SP, and would be quieter doing it. I have always found the dual 140mm to be a better route.


Can anyone speak to the difference between the F140SP and F140MP fans? I see there's a F140XP as well.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *theotherspartan*
> 
> Can anyone speak to the difference between the F140SP and F140MP fans? I see there's a F140XP as well.


The XP is the PWM variant of the SP.

The SP is capable of moving more air in an unrestricted environment, while the MP has higher static pressure and was designed specifically with radiator usage in mind. The SP is also quieter than the MP at like rpm and CFM levels. While all signs would point to the SP being an easy choice, there are some that feel that the MP overcomes restrictive intakes better. I have used both in an Evolv ATX, and personally prefer the SP as they moved more air with less noise, even with the restrictive intake.


----------



## dmfree88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Fans have both static pressure and airflow, they can not exist independently.
> If you are looking at a fan that says "Air Flow" or "Static Pressure" on the box, put it down and move to the next. There is not a single top tier fan that uses these designations, only lower end fans use this marketing ploy.
> 
> That said, you could simply add another F120SP (or two) to the existing, and you would have decent intake. Or, you could opt for two F140SP or F140MP, which would provide essentially the same amount of air movement as three F120SP, and would be quieter doing it. I have always found the dual 140mm to be a better route.


I am pretty sure the SP in the F120SP stands for static pressure. Also the PH-F120MP specifically says "High static pressure fan" on the front of the box and in the newegg description of the name. Just saying

My recommendation would personally be for Vortex fans if you don't mind the orange color

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835553001&nm_mc=KNC-GoogleAdwords-PC&cm_mmc=KNC-GoogleAdwords-PC-_-pla-_-Case+Fans-_-N82E16835553001&gclid=CjwKEAjwqJ67BRCzzJ7Hy-LYlFYSJABwp9PG26OhcWnPUzfGl1_74vUcSKaQ9EQPelE8eRjRqi8YIhoCaRfw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds

They are my favorite after testing multiple types of silent fans. The airflow movement is outstanding at low RPM/low noise. Destroyed the enermax TBsilencer and in my opinion is better than the F120SP I have a few of. Crazy orange but in my opinion the best fan available.

edit:
I have actually only tried the 140mm version but I assume the 120mm is similar in performance/quality. Heres the 140mm if you want to check it out:

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA85V3DG9176&cm_re=CF-V14H-_-35-553-003-_-Product

edit 2:
Not saying the Phanteks fans are not good. The quality is outstanding and they are heavy duty so they feel like they will last (no issues with any of the 7 Phanteks fans I own). The fans are very similar to the cougars but the airflow provided by the cougars combined with the expected life-span and low noise is just unbeatable in my opinion.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmfree88*
> 
> I am pretty sure the SP in the F120SP stands for static pressure.


It doesn't. Nor does XP (which is the PWM version of the same fan) stand for "Xtatic Pressure".









The Cougars are good fans. They are extremely quiet, but don't have as much air movement capability as the Phanteks in restrictive environments. I would have no issue using them in free flowing applications, but the front of a P400/Evolv/Luxe cripples them.


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Fans have both static pressure and airflow, they can not exist independently.
> If you are looking at a fan that says "Air Flow" or "Static Pressure" on the box, put it down and move to the next. There is not a single top tier fan that uses these designations, only lower end fans use this marketing ploy.
> 
> That said, you could simply add another F120SP (or two) to the existing, and you would have decent intake. Or, you could opt for two F140SP or F140MP, which would provide essentially the same amount of air movement as three F120SP, and would be quieter doing it. I have always found the dual 140mm to be a better route.


Not true.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rfarmer*
> 
> Not true.


Phanteks marketing making a liar out of me....lol.


----------



## dmfree88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> It doesn't. Nor does XP (which is the PWM version of the same fan) stand for "Xtatic Pressure".
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The Cougars are good fans. They are extremely quiet, but don't have as much air movement capability as the Phanteks in restrictive environments. I would have no issue using them in free flowing applications, but the front of a P400/Evolv/Luxe cripples them.


What does it stand for then? X is generally used by most manufacturers to represent an upgraded version of something or in this case the PWM version of the same SP series so the X in place of the S. SP being the original in the static pressure series. The MP was likely the first to use the Maelström blade design hence the MP and the HP which I currently use on my CPU heatsink is bigger blades which is supposed to produce better targeted pressure for heatsink/rad so maybe High or Higher Pressure. These are all presumptions but I see nothing else that makes sense. They all mention that they are high static pressure fans on the description page on phanteks so I am guessing they are all part of the SP series or Static Pressure series which is all of their current lineup. Feel free to correct me if I am wrong but I thought it made sense.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmfree88*
> 
> What does it stand for then? X is generally used by most manufacturers to represent an upgraded version of something or in this case the PWM version of the same SP series so the X in place of the S. SP being the original in the static pressure series. The MP was likely the first to use the Maelström blade design hence the MP and the HP which I currently use on my CPU heatsink is bigger blades which is supposed to produce better targeted pressure for heatsink/rad so maybe High or Higher Pressure. These are all presumptions but I see nothing else that makes sense. They all mention that they are high static pressure fans on the description page on phanteks so I am guessing they are all part of the SP series or Static Pressure series which is all of their current lineup. Feel free to correct me if I am wrong but I thought it made sense.


I have no idea what they stand for....but this is all very Corsair sounding. The designations don't make a lot of sense. I simply take the fans for what they are. Calling them "static pressure" doesn't make the pressure any higher.


----------



## dmfree88

Well I could be wrong but I think the SP was the first they made of this lineup and then each one that followed using the same base design used the same P designator to represent that it was the same high static pressure fan type.


----------



## dmfree88

Likely so nobody got them confused with previous crappier models or with newer models that may come out


----------



## dmfree88

Sorry for the triple post but has anyone consider painting the little bumps on the fan blades? I noticed the bumps create a circle when they are spinning. Would probably look pretty sweet if they were colored. Anyone seen a build that has this and could point me towards a video/photos would be appreciated.


----------



## pez

GTX 1070 incoming for the Evolv ITX build. 140SPs should also be here by the end of the week. The only thing left for this build is a games drive and some sleeved cables.


----------



## dmfree88

Oh and just based on specs and from my hand over the fans the Cougar seems to be better:

http://cougargaming.com/products/fans/

All cougar fans are rated at higher static pressure than the phanteks 140 SP at 1.33mm:

http://www.phanteksusa.com/products/phanteks-ph-f140sp

CFM is also showing higher ratings across the board.

Surprisingly the 120sp is even lower static pressure which is strange because usually the smaller size has more static pressure (1.28mm):
http://www.phanteks.com/PH-F120SP.html

but as you can see on the Cougar page the 120mm's are actually the highest static pressure at 1.74mm and 2.2mm.

You can really feel the airflow movement difference. The cougar seems quite a bit better. Again it is a crazy orange though. If your not hiding it, painting it or building an orange rig it is pretty difficult to miss it







.

Post thought:
For some perspective you could get the Vortex HDB 140 and use the low voltage adapter bringing it down to the same CFM as the 120SP at 100% (although the static pressure would be fairly low for the vortex set to low RPM it is actually still quieter than the others even at high RPM its only 19db for loudest Cougar vs 24db for 120sp). Really across the board the cougars appear to be better.


----------



## dmfree88

OH I guess the CFD series does come in different colors. I have not tried those though. Looks decent though. Similar design to the Vortex just uses a different bearing. Not sure of the quality but appears decent and the colors are nice. Really like the clear black one and the clear black/blue one. Unique.


----------



## .theMetal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pez*
> 
> GTX 1070 incoming for the Evolv ITX build. 140SPs should also be here by the end of the week. The only thing left for this build is a games drive and some sleeved cables.


Looking forward to seeing the finished product, also to seeing how that 1070 does. I'm just not sure if I need to upgrade from my 970 yet for a bit since I only game at 1920x1080, but it doesn't mean the temptation is not very strong.


----------



## iammurphy

Everything transferred over to my evolv atx tempered glass !


----------



## pez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *.theMetal*
> 
> Looking forward to seeing the finished product, also to seeing how that 1070 does. I'm just not sure if I need to upgrade from my 970 yet for a bit since I only game at 1920x1080, but it doesn't mean the temptation is not very strong.


You and me both. I was going to put the same model 970 you have in there, but my brother offered to buy both of mine for $400 and I couldn't pass that up. That pretty much paid for my 1080. The 1070 will push 1080p in that rig as I find an excuse to upgrade my current 1440p display to either 21:9 1440p, 144hz 1440p (with g-sync), or 4K (with g-sync). Then my wife gets 1440p which will be fine for that card as it may only ever see titles like Borderlands, Left 4 Dead (3 pls), Minecraft, etc.

I actually thought about trying that cardboard method you had done to see if it makes any improvements since the 1070 will be a FE/reference design. I don't necessarily have the means to control my environment perfectly for testing, but I have a pretty good idea of what to do to make the results irrelevant







.


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *.theMetal*
> 
> Looking forward to seeing the finished product, also to seeing how that 1070 does. I'm just not sure if I need to upgrade from my 970 yet for a bit since I only game at 1920x1080, but it doesn't mean the temptation is not very strong.


I'm in the same boat, using a 970 at 1080 and it does great at that resolution. I want to upgrade to 1440 and a 1070 would be perfect.


----------



## theotherspartan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmfree88*
> 
> Really across the board the cougars appear to be better.


I think I'm currently torn between getting two of the 140mm Cougars or two Phanteks F140XPs. I like the idea of the XPs because they are PWM, allowing me to control their fan curve via my BIOS whereas the Cougars are 3-pin and I have no idea how to control those. Would they just have to run on full blast all the time?


----------



## dmfree88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *theotherspartan*
> 
> I think I'm currently torn between getting two of the 140mm Cougars or two Phanteks F140XPs. I like the idea of the XPs because they are PWM, allowing me to control their fan curve via my BIOS whereas the Cougars are 3-pin and I have no idea how to control those. Would they just have to run on full blast all the time?


You do not need PWM to control the fan. 3 pin are controlled by voltage and PWM can be speed adjusted at any time. PWM is superior but you can still lower the voltage on 3pin fans and it lowers speed fine (which is usually still done automatically by your motherboard). In my experience they are not really any different performance-wise the PWM adjust speed faster if I recall correctly. It is mostly up to your bios controls. From the looks of the Cougar fans the HDB/PWM vortex are superior because of the Hydro-Dynamic bearing which gives it a much longer lifespan. Those are the ones that seem to only come in orange though and it is also the only one I have tested personally. I am sure the others are still decent and probably would last long but if you are going for performance and longevity the Vortex ones with the HDB seem to be better and you can also get the PWM version if you prefer.

Post thought:

It can depend on your motherboard. The power fan connection on my motherboard has no settings for fan curve. I have 3 pin fans hooked up to 4pin connectors and they are getting speed adjusted with CPU temp no problem. The Power fan runs at 100% always. Would need an adapter to lower the speed on that one if I want it to go down. Most motherboards nowadays have full fan controls though. You can also split at least 2 fans off headers if you need to but it is recommended to use the same fan types if using splitters.


----------



## dmfree88

Actually I managed to find some black ones:

https://www.amazon.com/Cougar-CFV14HB-Fan-Cooling/dp/B008N38OC2/ref=pd_sim_147_1?ie=UTF8&dpID=41KQU77%2B2lL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL320_SR320%2C320_&psc=1&refRID=TKP369JGNRW3KS8V59NY

Decent price really, I think I paid around $30 for mine back when they first came out. Seems to be a slightly older model (model is not shown on Cougar's fan page anymore) but it still has the hydrodynamic bearing and 19dba sound so I would imagine its very close if not the exact same fan.


----------



## doyll

The argument over which fans are what. To me the PH-F140TS blades are different, then SP, XP and HP are all the same fan blades in difference rpm ranges, housing and speed control. My understanding Phanteks model numbers is HP was for High Perfomance.

First fan was PH-F140TC at 1200rpm with UFB bearing, Maelstrom Air Fort Optimization and Maelstrom Vortex Booster (sounds like advertising hype).


Then came PH-F140HP is 1300rpm with UFB bearing, different vibraton dampeners, motor mounting frame and slight change in blades (also PWM control)


Or was PH-F140SP next (not sure which cam first here) 1200rpm basically the square version HP without PWM


The PH-F140XP is 1200rpm HP in a square housing .. or the SP with PWM. No idea why the specs show a little more mm H2O (1.62 vs 1.33)


At this point I gave up trying to sort out marketing hype from actual specification.









Here are images of 140mm fans and their specifications.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> It doesn't. Nor does XP (which is the PWM version of the same fan) stand for "Xtatic Pressure".
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


Oh come on, we all know XP stands for eXtreme Pressure .. MP stands for Mega Pressure.


----------



## dmfree88

yeah had I seen these at microcenter before I purchased the F140HP-II I probably would have bought them instead:

http://www.microcenter.com/brand/4294922488/HEC

They have the entire black HDB lineup under $19. Wish I could afford them now. Would look good on my red PH-TC14PE. Might buy the 120mm when I get some cash to put on the front of the heatsink, would probably fit/look better ontop of my ram since the 140mm is currently moved up significantly.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *theotherspartan*
> 
> I think I'm currently torn between getting two of the 140mm Cougars or two Phanteks F140XPs. I like the idea of the XPs because they are PWM, allowing me to control their fan curve via my BIOS whereas the Cougars are 3-pin and I have no idea how to control those. Would they just have to run on full blast all the time?


While I have used the PH-F140MP only a little, I think it is what I would get. The added static pressure not only improves airflow with high resistance, but improves airflow with normal resistance when fan runs at lower speed.
PH-F140MP is 68.1 cfm free airflow and 1.62 mm H₂O @ 1600 rpm
PH-F140XP is 85.2 cfm free airflow and 1.52 mm H₂O @ 1200 rpm

But those specs are applications using no resistance and resistance that stops all airflow and at full speed .. not applications that we ever use. We use them with resistance to airflow (grill, filter, radiator, cooler, etc) and at lower speeds .. meaning the specification mean little.

While PH-F140MP has lower free airflow rating, their increased pressure rating translats into equal or better airflow in actual use than fans with higher free airflow ratings. At lower rpm they overcome resistance even better.

Over the years I've used more TY-140 series fans than any other 140mm fan. TY-140/143/147/147A/149 all perform the same at same rpm. I have done A/B comparisons of them against PH-F140TS, PH-F140SP, PH-F140HP and many others. They as good or better in every application (including cutting them square and using them on square 105 to 124.5mm mounting hole plates). I am not doing in use tests using TY-147A Sq (new square housing prototype) in Phanteks cases. So far I am finding the TY to be every so slightly better. It is at most a couple degrees at same db sound level, which is +/- 150rpm .. well within margin of error. But they sound better to my ears. In other words even though I'm try8ing to be techical, I'm biased by the sound difference.







I only have one PH-F140MP, but on a cooler I'm finding it to be every bit as good at same rpm, especially at low rpm (400-900rpm) and sounds as good too.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmfree88*
> 
> You do not need PWM to control the fan. 3 pin are controlled by voltage and PWM can be speed adjusted at any time. PWM is superior but you can still lower the voltage on 3pin fans and it lowers speed fine (which is usually still done automatically by your motherboard). In my experience they are not really any different performance-wise the PWM adjust speed faster if I recall correctly. It is mostly up to your bios controls. From the looks of the Cougar fans the HDB/PWM vortex are superior because of the Hydro-Dynamic bearing which gives it a much longer lifespan. Those are the ones that seem to only come in orange though and it is also the only one I have tested personally. I am sure the others are still decent and probably would last long but if you are going for performance and longevity the Vortex ones with the HDB seem to be better and you can also get the PWM version if you prefer.
> 
> Post thought:
> 
> It can depend on your motherboard. The power fan connection on my motherboard has no settings for fan curve. I have 3 pin fans hooked up to 4pin connectors and they are getting speed adjusted with CPU temp no problem. The Power fan runs at 100% always. Would need an adapter to lower the speed on that one if I want it to go down. Most motherboards nowadays have full fan controls though. You can also split at least 2 fans off headers if you need to but it is recommended to use the same fan types if using splitters.


To me the biggest advantages of PWM is the ability to run and control 7-10 fans from a single motherboard PWM fan header signal and the fact their is no heat generated lowering voltage. PWM control simply changes the pulse rate of 12 volt power to lower the fan speed .. this generates no heat. Variable voltage control requires the 12v power be reduced to lower voltage to lower fan speed .. and doing this generates heat .. the lower the voltage used the more heat is generated.


----------



## austinmrs

Thinking of get a Phanteks Eclipse P400. WIll my Corsair H110iGT fit on the front?

Also, will i get worse temps for having the AIO on the front instead of the top?

Thinking of go with Push pull on it, with 4 Noctua A14 FLX, and then a stock fan on the exhaust only.. What do you think?

Or should i get the Pro M? The thing is, the Pro M doesn't support LED control, so i cant connect a phanteks led strip to it...


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *austinmrs*
> 
> Thinking of get a Phanteks Eclipse P400. WIll my Corsair H110iGT fit on the front?
> 
> Also, will i get worse temps for having the AIO on the front instead of the top?
> 
> Thinking of go with Push pull on it, with 4 Noctua A14 FLX, and then a stock fan on the exhaust only.. What do you think?
> 
> Or should i get the Pro M? The thing is, the Pro M doesn't support LED control, so i cant connect a phanteks led strip to it...


Recommendations depend on where you live.

While I'm not sure about the fit, I will definitively say do not waste money on expensive fan trying to improve H110iGT. It's a pig, and you can't make a silk purse out of a sow's ear. If you are only putting water on the CPU, get a quality air cooler for similar money, probably less money than 4x nocs will cost. That or get a real water cooling loop like Swiftech H240 X2 that you can expand to cool GPU with as well .. but that will empty your pockets even if they are quite deep.


----------



## austinmrs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Recommendations depend on where you live.
> 
> While I'm not sure about the fit, I will definitively say do not waste money on expensive fan trying to improve H110iGT. It's a pig, and you can't make a silk purse out of a sow's ear. If you are only putting water on the CPU, get a quality air cooler for similar money, probably less money than 4x nocs will cost. That or get a real water cooling loop like Swiftech H240 X2 that you can expand to cool GPU with as well .. but that will empty your pockets even if they are quite deep.


I already got the Corsair H110i GT, as well as the 4 NF A14 FLX.

I just dont know what case to buy.. I live in portugak btw


----------



## Insr33

Hi All

First of all, awesome thread and stunning creations. Didn't expect to find a thread about this case with a whopping 1379 pages







I'm planning a pc upgrade and the only thing that I'm 100% sure about is the case







Will stick with the "old" version though without the full glass panels. For the moment I have a Corsair Obsidian 700d. Best case I ever owned but it's too large when I have to move it for lan parties, cleaning. Therefore looking for a more compact setup. One of the reasons I bought the Obsidian was to have a very good airflow with low rpm fans. I don't know if I can archive the same results with the Phanteks case? With my old case I had a 6 bay fanhub with manual nobs which I turned up when I was gaming. When working on it the fans were almost completely off. Would anyone mind giving me some tips to complete my setup? I have not been following the hardware scene as close as I used to so hopefully you guys can complete my setup  Oh: forgot to mention that I looooove clean looking setups. Don't have the time to put in custom wc setup but the closed loop options look good enough for me. Also some RGB lighting is welcome 
Case: Phanteks ATX Grey - this one I'm sure









*Mobo*: Asus Sabertooth x99 - Very Clean looking board with M2 Hard drive connection, 8 sata 600 ports, .. Price is pretty steep though. Perhaps there is a cheaper alternative which provides dust covers and m2 hard drive? Thoughts?

*CPU*: Intel Core i7-5820K / 3.3 GHz. Not much to say I guess. Seems like a decent cpu with decent price.

*CPU Cooling:* Corsair Hydro Series H115i Extreme Performance Liquid CPU Cooler V. A lot of coolers to choose from. Not sure if this is the right choice?

*Graphics Card*: Not sure to keep my GTX980TI or upgrade to a 1080? Also with the market being flooded with 1080's no idea which card has the best performance / price / quiet ratio? Again I don't want a beast which takes 3 slots. Just a "sober" card which will blend with the clean setup. (perhaps with single 8 pin socket?) thoughts?

*Memory*: I think 16 gigs will be enough to run everything smoothly. Was thinking about the Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (4 x 4GB) DDR4-3200 Memory kit

*PSU*: I like the sleeved cables a lot. However Corsair seems to charge quite a bit for these cables. Any recommendations for quiet psu with sleeved cables which blends nicely in the Phanteks case?

*Display*: Acer Predator X34 - For the moment I'm running triple setup with 1080p G-Sync Acer xb240h monitors which I used for sim racing + office / IT work. With the Oculus rift in the pipeline I'm thinking about ditching the triple setup (which takes a lot of space!) to replace it with an single 34" wide monitor. Only drawback I have is the 100hz (coming from 144) + input lag. Playing mostly 3d shooters (besides race games) so not sure if I will get used to this? People that switched from 24" to 34" wide with good experiences?

*Hard Drive*: M2 128 or 256 gig. Not sure which brand. I already have a 256 ssd in my current setup which will use for games. Data is on a NAS


----------



## pez

The Pro M has the same internal layout but offers a superior airflow due to being more 'open'. However, I understand wanting what you want. Doyll and ciarlatano have mentioned that equipping the Evolv ATX with a couple 140s in the front and a single 140 in the rear will do wonders. They will both advise against the Corsair AIO cooler







. A tower cooler with that fan setup should keep temps down and your system quiet. Everything else looks pretty good, though the 980Ti won't do ultrawide the greatest unless you're ok with adjusting some settings







.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *austinmrs*
> 
> I already got the Corsair H110i GT, as well as the 4 NF A14 FLX.


~$200 CLC.....oof.









if you are looking for the better case, the Pro M acrylic is clearly a far better case. If ease of LED control is a larger priority than than case quality and features, then get the P400.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *austinmrs*
> 
> I already got the Corsair H110i GT, as well as the 4 NF A14 FLX.
> 
> I just dont know what case to buy.. I live in portugak btw


I think pez and ciarlatano have answered your initial questions.
P400 is really an entry level case and has almost no options. Things like more and better case fans, PWM to variable voltage fan hub, etc that are included in may of next level up cases. I use and build so many I can't remember exactly what comes with what. I find Phanteksusa.com site easier to use then Phanteks.com site.
Any others, please feel free to ask.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Insr33*
> 
> Hi All
> 
> First of all, awesome thread and stunning creations. Didn't expect to find a thread about this case with a whopping 1379 pages
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm planning a pc upgrade and the only thing that I'm 100% sure about is the case
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Will stick with the "old" version though without the full glass panels. For the moment I have a Corsair Obsidian 700d. Best case I ever owned ......


Welcome to the club. We will all be here waiting to hear the thud when you lose consciousness upon receiving your Evolv ATX. The difference coming from a Corsair case is going to put you in a state of shock.

A couple of quick comments on components:

1. Spend the little bit extra on the Sabertooth. It is worth every penny.
2. EVGA has arguably the best PSUs on the market in their P2 series and offer sleeved kits for them in a number of colors. If I were buying a PSU today, this would be in my cart without a thought.
3. An H115i? With Swiftech and EK AiO's on the market? Do a little digging in the Swiftech and EK clubs here. Buying a CLC in 2016 is like paying $400 for a Motorola brick phone with a two year contract. The Swiftech and EK offer better performance, far lower noise, expandability, the ability to customize and are far better looking.


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *austinmrs*
> 
> Thinking of get a Phanteks Eclipse P400. WIll my Corsair H110iGT fit on the front?
> 
> Also, will i get worse temps for having the AIO on the front instead of the top?
> 
> Thinking of go with Push pull on it, with 4 Noctua A14 FLX, and then a stock fan on the exhaust only.. What do you think?
> 
> Or should i get the Pro M? The thing is, the Pro M doesn't support LED control, so i cant connect a phanteks led strip to it...


yes, the H110iGT will fit in the P400




will the temps be higher, maybe, maybe not. cpu temp wouldn't be, if anything the motherboard and gpu a little. but with the top and rear exhaust it shouldn't have a lingering heat issue. the Pro M Acrylic (because they may as well discontinue the regular Pro M already) is a larger, more flexible case, but the P400 should be fine. funny, I hated the P400 when it was announced, now it doesn't look so bad. better than my S340 at the same price, same rad mounting, heck a bit better if you're using a thick rad in front, than the $100 CM Mastercase (non Pro).


----------



## Insr33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pez*
> 
> The Pro M has the same internal layout but offers a superior airflow due to being more 'open'. However, I understand wanting what you want. Doyll and ciarlatano have mentioned that equipping the Evolv ATX with a couple 140s in the front and a single 140 in the rear will do wonders. They will both advise against the Corsair AIO cooler
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . A tower cooler with that fan setup should keep temps down and your system quiet. Everything else looks pretty good, though the 980Ti won't do ultrawide the greatest unless you're ok with adjusting some settings
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


To complete the build I guess the 1080 is the icing on the cake







. Just finding it hard to justify selling this beast of a card which still performs quite good.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Welcome to the club. We will all be here waiting to hear the thud when you lose consciousness upon receiving your Evolv ATX. The difference coming from a Corsair case is going to put you in a state of shock.
> 
> A couple of quick comments on components:
> 
> 1. Spend the little bit extra on the Sabertooth. It is worth every penny.
> 2. EVGA has arguably the best PSUs on the market in their P2 series and offer sleeved kits for them in a number of colors. If I were buying a PSU today, this would be in my cart without a thought.
> 3. An H115i? With Swiftech and EK AiO's on the market? Do a little digging in the Swiftech and EK clubs here. Buying a CLC in 2016 is like paying $400 for a Motorola brick phone with a two year contract. The Swiftech and EK offer better performance, far lower noise, expandability, the ability to customize and are far better looking.


thx alot for your help!

1. -> Ok, will do sir








2. This shows my lack of knowledge of pc components anno 2016







My "decent" PSU list is still limited to "Corsair, Enermax, Antec, .." Definitely will have a look at your proposal!
3. THX!!! helps me a LOT


----------



## austinmrs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PureBlackFire*
> 
> yes, the H110iGT will fit in the P400
> 
> 
> 
> 
> will the temps be higher, maybe, maybe not. cpu temp wouldn't be, if anything the motherboard and gpu a little. but with the top and rear exhaust it shouldn't have a lingering heat issue. the Pro M Acrylic (because they may as well discontinue the regular Pro M already) is a larger, more flexible case, but the P400 should be fine. funny, I hated the P400 when it was announced, now it doesn't look so bad. better than my S340 at the same price, same rad mounting, heck a bit better if you're using a thick rad in front, than the $100 CM Mastercase (non Pro).


I like the Pro M Acrylic better than the P400. The thing is, the P400 have lighting system included in the case, so i can just buy a 1 Meter phanteks led strip, and i can connect it to the case and im good to go.

The pro M doesn't have lighting system, i dont know why... So if i buy the Pro M, i will have to buy a led strip from bit fenix or something, they are a lot more expensive, and i have to connect it to the power suply...


----------



## PureBlackFire

it think if you can get the LED connector that comes in the Evolv tempered glass it can connect to the pro M's reset button. the I/O panel in the Evolv ATX and pro M is identical just like they share the same chassis. maybe contact Phanteks support and ask about the LED connector or the evolv's front I/O panel for the Pro M. longshot.


----------



## austinmrs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PureBlackFire*
> 
> it think if you can get the LED connector that comes in the Evolv tempered glass it can connect to the pro M's reset button. the I/O panel in the Evolv ATX and pro M is identical just like they share the same chassis. maybe contact Phanteks support and ask about the LED connector or the evolv's front I/O panel for the Pro M. longshot.


I don't think they can give me that, so I think there is no point of even asking...


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PureBlackFire*
> 
> it think if you can get the LED connector that comes in the Evolv tempered glass it can connect to the pro M's reset button. the I/O panel in the Evolv ATX and pro M is identical just like they share the same chassis. maybe contact Phanteks support and ask about the LED connector or the evolv's front I/O panel for the Pro M. longshot.


Not a longshot at all. I purchased the front I/O for the Luxe from Phanteks as a part for next to nothing - if I recall it was like $8. I bought it with the intention of using the LED control portion for my Evolv ATX, but then decided against LEDs.


----------



## dlewbell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *austinmrs*
> 
> I don't think they can give me that, so I think there is no point of even asking...


I've found Phanteks customer support to be pretty helpful. Give them a quick call. It likely won't take long, & you might be pleasantly surprised.


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *austinmrs*
> 
> I don't think they can give me that, so I think there is no point of even asking...


i was able to get a replacement front panel for my case with no trouble and free of charge. if you want a better case but want to have your cake and eat.... I mean your LED strip too, it can't hurt to make the effort to ask.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Not a longshot at all. I purchased the front I/O for the Luxe from Phanteks as a part for next to nothing - if I recall it was like $8. I bought it with the intention of using the LED control portion for my Evolv ATX, but then decided against LEDs.


see, there is even precedent for this. I think it's worth a try.


----------



## austinmrs

So i think i will go for the Pro M Acrylic, i like it better to.

I love the Evolv Atx Glass Panel version, but i think its a little to expensive for me. I think i heard they are releasing a Pro M with tempered glass too?


----------



## greg1184

So I am hearing that the RVE 10 edition won't fit the evolve. I was thinking of "downsizing" from the primo to that beautiful glass version. It said that it took EATX


----------



## silverwing

Has anybody tried finding a matching touch up paint for the inside of the Evolve ATX TG? I just bought one and while putting it all together I managed to scratch the inside of the case right where the PSU shroud is, leaving a very apparent scratch in the middle of my field of view. I'm a bit OCD when it comes to my case so I would be a great help if anyone knows a touch up paint I can use to help cover it up, thanks in advance.


----------



## owcraftsman

Not sure how bad it is or color of case but if it's the black version I have used a black sharpie with good success at least it doesn't stick out like a sore thumb. No matter what you do it will show unless the whole area is sanded down and then sprayed to blend in.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *owcraftsman*
> 
> Not sure how bad it is or color of case but if it's the black version I have used a black sharpie with good success at least it doesn't stick out like a sore thumb. No matter what you do it will show unless the whole area is sanded down and then sprayed to blend in.


I have done the same. The Sharpie works well.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> I have done the same. The Sharpie works well.


until the light hits at a 45 defree angle then it looks purplish


----------



## dmfree88

Testors enamel paint markers might be a good idea to avoid the purple sharpee effect. Likely still won't match exactly but might be closer.


----------



## michael-ocn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmfree88*
> 
> Testors enamel paint markers might be a good idea to avoid the purple sharpee effect. Likely still won't match exactly but might be closer.


automotive touchup paint pens


----------



## pez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *austinmrs*
> 
> So i think i will go for the Pro M Acrylic, i like it better to.
> 
> I love the Evolv Atx Glass Panel version, but i think its a little to expensive for me. I think i heard they are releasing a Pro M with tempered glass too?


Indeed they are coming out with a Pro M TG. Phanteks Support confirmed with me that the TG panel will be available to purchase after it releases for those who already have the acrylic version. Direct match in cut and hole alignment.


----------



## greg1184

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pez*
> 
> Indeed they are coming out with a Pro M TG. Phanteks Support confirmed with me that the TG panel will be available to purchase after it releases for those who already have the acrylic version. Direct match in cut and hole alignment.


How about the Primo? It would be nice to have a clear side panel without having to remove the radiator bracket on the bottom (and costing 100 bucks).


----------



## dmfree88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pez*
> 
> Indeed they are coming out with a Pro M TG. Phanteks Support confirmed with me that the TG panel will be available to purchase after it releases for those who already have the acrylic version. Direct match in cut and hole alignment.


Did they happen to give you a possible price range on the TG window? Would be pretty sweet to get one if its a reasonable price.


----------



## pez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *greg1184*
> 
> How about the Primo? It would be nice to have a clear side panel without having to remove the radiator bracket on the bottom (and costing 100 bucks).


Not that I know of, though I have no experience with that case. I see why they don't have a TG version of it as it's not really an open design like the Evolv ATX or Pro M.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmfree88*
> 
> Did they happen to give you a possible price range on the TG window? Would be pretty sweet to get one if its a reasonable price.


Unfortunately no







. I imagine a sheet of glass is much more expensive than Acrylic, though the TG version of the Evolv ATX is only $10 more. I'd love to see one for a price of $20-30. I feel that would be reasonable, though I'd be hard pressed to say no for a glass panel already built for my case for <$50. Then again, I could probably have this done for less







.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *silverwing*
> 
> Has anybody tried finding a matching touch up paint for the inside of the Evolve ATX TG? I just bought one and while putting it all together I managed to scratch the inside of the case right where the PSU shroud is, leaving a very apparent scratch in the middle of my field of view. I'm a bit OCD when it comes to my case so I would be a great help if anyone knows a touch up paint I can use to help cover it up, thanks in advance.


Felt marker as suggested or go to an auto supply house and look at their scratch touch-up assortment. There are colored markers to in matching colors, wax sticks in matching colors that color and fill the scratch, etc.


----------



## Avant Garde

Those gentleman at Phanteks should consider an option for Evolv ATX with just one side tempered glass, that would be great. As well as some front I/O with USB Type C instead of that silly LED button because you can use LED strips with remote these days...


----------



## owcraftsman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *greg1184*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *pez*
> 
> Indeed they are coming out with a Pro M TG. Phanteks Support confirmed with me that the TG panel will be available to purchase after it releases for those who already have the acrylic version. Direct match in cut and hole alignment.
> 
> 
> 
> How about the Primo? It would be nice to have a clear side panel without having to remove the radiator bracket on the bottom (and costing 100 bucks).
Click to expand...






*Phanteks Enthoo Primo Clear Window Replacement Side Panel Version 2*

Not tempered glass rather cast acrylic 3/8" but full side panel glass and no need to remove parts


----------



## doyll

Was just going to post the same.


----------



## pez

Oh nice! That actually does look quite nice. I like the small 'separation' they added to the design of it.


----------



## CalinTM

About the evolv atx. To start the pwm fan hub, i need to connect the 4 pin cable into my CPU FAN header on the motherboard, to work.

Its ok if i use splitters to do this ? A splitter for my two CPU fans, and another splitter for powering those two CPU fans, and the 4 pin cable that goes into the pwn fan hub. Its ok ?

And basically if i want pwm i need to mess around with the CPU fans speed, to modify the speed of the case fans no ?

I've tried to plug the 4 pin cable into another header on my motherboard, same 4 pins, but the case fans didn't started. Works only in the CPU fan header no ?


----------



## CalinTM

-double-


----------



## pez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CalinTM*
> 
> About the evolv atx. To start the pwm fan hub, i need to connect the 4 pin cable into my CPU FAN header on the motherboard, to work.
> 
> Its ok if i use splitters to do this ? A splitter for my two CPU fans, and another splitter for powering those two CPU fans, and the 4 pin cable that goes into the pwn fan hub. Its ok ?
> 
> And basically if i want pwm i need to mess around with the CPU fans speed, to modify the speed of the case fans no ?
> 
> I've tried to plug the 4 pin cable into another header on my motherboard, same 4 pins, but the case fans didn't started. Works only in the CPU fan header no ?


Yep, that's what I'm currently doing. The PWM/fan curve you set for the CPU fans will then apply to all fans connected to the hub if you do that.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pez*
> 
> Oh nice! That actually does look quite nice. I like the small 'separation' they added to the design of it.


MPCTech do a great line of custom accessories .. and Bill a good people. Highly recommend them!


----------



## owcraftsman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *rfarmer*
> 
> Not true.
> 
> 
> 
> Phanteks marketing making a liar out of me....lol.
Click to expand...

opps open mouth insert....... lol


----------



## owcraftsman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *pez*
> 
> Oh nice! That actually does look quite nice. I like the small 'separation' they added to the design of it.
> 
> 
> 
> MPCTech do a great line of custom accessories .. and Bill a good people. Highly recommend them!
Click to expand...

They also do custom orders just call and talk to them they will be more than happy to give you a quote for what ever.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *owcraftsman*
> 
> opps open mouth insert....... lol


Yeah, these were the main fans I was referring to avoid. There are other bad fans with the "airflow" and "static pressure" tags, but these seem to be the main culprits.


----------



## Insr33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Welcome to the club. We will all be here waiting to hear the thud when you lose consciousness upon receiving your Evolv ATX. The difference coming from a Corsair case is going to put you in a state of shock.
> 
> A couple of quick comments on components:
> 
> 1. Spend the little bit extra on the Sabertooth. It is worth every penny.
> 2. EVGA has arguably the best PSUs on the market in their P2 series and offer sleeved kits for them in a number of colors. If I were buying a PSU today, this would be in my cart without a thought.
> 3. An H115i? With Swiftech and EK AiO's on the market? Do a little digging in the Swiftech and EK clubs here. Buying a CLC in 2016 is like paying $400 for a Motorola brick phone with a two year contract. The Swiftech and EK offer better performance, far lower noise, expandability, the ability to customize and are far better looking.


Had some time to investigate the feedback







Checked both Swiftech and EK cloosed loops. EK Predator 240 looks the best option for me but I'm not sure if I can mount it as desired.. Being (almost) a complete noob when it comes to WC I was wondering the following:


Should I use the stock fans that are included with the set or are these noisy under small / heavy load? Heared good things about Noctua fans but hate the brown / white color theme. Are the black Noctuas any good for this set? (or other super quit fans?)
I searched for some pictures of this set installed into a Phanteks ATX but most of them seem mounted on top. Will this fit in the front as well? Also on the website of EK I saw the waterpump mounted on the bottom (which will leave the hoses covering my graphics card) Can the pump be mounted on top? Basically I want the hoses not blocking anything and the rad completely invisible.. LINK more or less like this: LINK
Any recommendations for the fans overal? Should I leave the stock fans or order 3(?) 140mm fans?
Sorry for all the questions









Mobo: Asus Sabertooth x99 - OK

CPU: Intel Core i7-5820K / 3.3 GHz - OK.

CPU Cooling: EK Predator 240?

Case Fans: Stock, Noctua?

Graphics Card: GTX 1080, not sure which brand, type??

Memory:Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (4 x 4GB) DDR4-3200 Memory kit - OK

PSU: EVGA SuperNOVA P2 + Sleeve kit - OK

Display: Acer Predator X34 - OK

Hard Drive: Samsung 950 Pro - OK


----------



## dlewbell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Avant Garde*
> 
> Those gentleman at Phanteks should consider an option for Evolv ATX with just one side tempered glass, that would be great. As well as some front I/O with USB Type C instead of that silly LED button because you can use LED strips with remote these days...


As an Enthoo Luxe owner, I greatly prefer the integrated LEDs & button to an aftermarket kit with an ugly remote that I have to worry about losing. Those remote control LEDs are even worse on a living room system, as the TV remote will often change them unexpectedly. I had a set in my last case, & they changed to the worst shade of yellow every time I turned my TV on. Of course, then the kit wouldn't pick up the signal from the included remote, so I'd still have to walk over to the PC to get a clear enough line of sight for it to work. The button is a much nicer solution, even if it doesn't have strobe options. I'm all for adding USB type C, but I'd rather see it replace the USB 2.0 headers.


----------



## Testing12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Avant Garde*
> 
> Those gentleman at Phanteks should consider an option for Evolv ATX with just one side tempered glass, that would be great. As well as some front I/O with USB Type C instead of that silly LED button because you can use LED strips with remote these days...


I agree with the above.
Plus, they need to add 8mm to the width of the motherboard tray. As it stands, 264mm is not wide enough to support motherboards like the ASUS Rampage Extremes, etc.


----------



## paskowitz

They also need to change the bottom front HHD mounts so they are compatible with 280mm rads (front). Mounting points on the back side (opposite cable phanteks cable slots) of the case would work. It's a nice case but there are some maddening little compatibility niggles.


----------



## pez

I believe that was addressed with the Evolv ATX TG and Pro M Acrylic. Silently, but I believe so. They introduced either a new bracket or new mounting holds to offset the HDD drives.


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pez*
> 
> I believe that was addressed with the Evolv ATX TG and Pro M Acrylic. Silently, but I believe so. They introduced either a new bracket or new mounting holds to offset the HDD drives.


Well, I have (just arrived) the Evolve TG and it's still a problem.

Build in progress.



*Please note, the nasty carbon fiber vinyl wrap on the H240X will be removed/replaced. GPU ports will also be polished.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Insr33*
> 
> Had some time to investigate the feedback
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Checked both Swiftech and EK cloosed loops. EK Predator 240 looks the best option for me but I'm not sure if I can mount it as desired.. Being (almost) a complete noob when it comes to WC I was wondering the following:
> 
> 
> Should I use the stock fans that are included with the set or are these noisy under small / heavy load? Heared good things about Noctua fans but hate the brown / white color theme. Are the black Noctuas any good for this set? (or other super quit fans?)
> I searched for some pictures of this set installed into a Phanteks ATX but most of them seem mounted on top. Will this fit in the front as well? Also on the website of EK I saw the waterpump mounted on the bottom (which will leave the hoses covering my graphics card) Can the pump be mounted on top? Basically I want the hoses not blocking anything and the rad completely invisible.. LINK more or less like this: LINK
> Any recommendations for the fans overal? Should I leave the stock fans or order 3(?) 140mm fans?
> Sorry for all the questions
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mobo: Asus Sabertooth x99 - OK
> 
> CPU: Intel Core i7-5820K / 3.3 GHz - OK.
> 
> CPU Cooling: EK Predator 240?
> 
> Case Fans: Stock, Noctua?
> 
> Graphics Card: GTX 1080, not sure which brand, type??
> 
> Memory:Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (4 x 4GB) DDR4-3200 Memory kit - OK
> 
> PSU: EVGA SuperNOVA P2 + Sleeve kit - OK
> 
> Display: Acer Predator X34 - OK
> 
> Hard Drive: Samsung 950 Pro - OK


You can mount the Predator in front with no issue. I do believe that the pump needs to be on the bottom if it is mounted vertically, but that is a question better asked to the members of the Predator thread. In either case, you gave plenty of length to route around your GPU without blocking it.

As far as fans, if you ask experienced liquid coolers for 120mm fan recommendations, you will invariably be directed to Nidec Gentle Typhoons, eLoops and EK Vardars. The Vardars are included with the Predator, and spending the money to change them would be rather pointless since any change you made would unlikely be an upgrade in any way.

If you are going to be using mechanical drives, it would be advisable to pick up a low rpm/noise 120mm for the bottom intake spot just to keep some air moving over the drives.


----------



## iammurphy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Insr33*
> 
> Had some time to investigate the feedback
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Checked both Swiftech and EK cloosed loops. EK Predator 240 looks the best option for me but I'm not sure if I can mount it as desired.. Being (almost) a complete noob when it comes to WC I was wondering the following:
> 
> 
> Should I use the stock fans that are included with the set or are these noisy under small / heavy load? Heared good things about Noctua fans but hate the brown / white color theme. Are the black Noctuas any good for this set? (or other super quit fans?)
> I searched for some pictures of this set installed into a Phanteks ATX but most of them seem mounted on top. Will this fit in the front as well? Also on the website of EK I saw the waterpump mounted on the bottom (which will leave the hoses covering my graphics card) Can the pump be mounted on top? Basically I want the hoses not blocking anything and the rad completely invisible.. LINK more or less like this: LINK
> Any recommendations for the fans overal? Should I leave the stock fans or order 3(?) 140mm fans?
> Sorry for all the questions
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mobo: Asus Sabertooth x99 - OK
> 
> CPU: Intel Core i7-5820K / 3.3 GHz - OK.
> 
> CPU Cooling: EK Predator 240?
> 
> Case Fans: Stock, Noctua?
> 
> Graphics Card: GTX 1080, not sure which brand, type??
> 
> Memory:Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (4 x 4GB) DDR4-3200 Memory kit - OK
> 
> PSU: EVGA SuperNOVA P2 + Sleeve kit - OK
> 
> Display: Acer Predator X34 - OK
> 
> Hard Drive: Samsung 950 Pro - OK


My setup is near identical to you. Same cpu, motherboard, ram and hard drive.



I would recommend noctua fans. The vardars have to spin to fast and are to loud to cool effectively


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iammurphy*
> 
> I would recommend noctua fans. The vardars have to spin to fast and are to loud to cool effectively


This is not correct. It is actually *very in*correct. Noctua fans are middling at best on radiators.


----------



## iammurphy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> This is not correct. It is actually *very in*correct. Noctua fans are middling at best on radiators.


I am just reporting my experience with them. There noise they make is very unpleasing to the ears vs the noctuas in my experience.


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> This is not correct. It is actually *very in*correct. Noctua fans are middling at best on radiators.


Have to agree on this. I bought f12's for my rad and bought vardar and eloops to try. Settled with the vardar. sold both the eloops and the noctuas


----------



## Gil80

hi all,

I have the enthoo primo and for the top rad I use Aplhacool nexxos 420/60.
What would you recommend for mounting the radiator? I currently have it installed where the ports are at the back of the case.
Is it better if the ports are facing the front of the case?


----------



## Sazexa

Hey guys. I'm planning on doing a pretty extensive over-haul on my current build, and leaving ITX and moving back up to ATX. I've really been eye-balling, and falling in love, with the Evolv TG.

Phanteks says the case can support 264mm wide E-ATX motherboards. Of course, I find that out after I get my heart set on an E-ATX board from ASUS that is 272mm wide. Does anyone have the Evolv ATX/TG and also have an E-ATX board that is 272mm wide, like the Rampage V, Rampage V Edition 10, or their WS board? If so, how hard was it to fit, and pictures would be appreciated GREATLY.


----------



## Insr33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> You can mount the Predator in front with no issue. I do believe that the pump needs to be on the bottom if it is mounted vertically, but that is a question better asked to the members of the Predator thread. In either case, you gave plenty of length to route around your GPU without blocking it.
> 
> As far as fans, if you ask experienced liquid coolers for 120mm fan recommendations, you will invariably be directed to Nidec Gentle Typhoons, eLoops and EK Vardars. The Vardars are included with the Predator, and spending the money to change them would be rather pointless since any change you made would unlikely be an upgrade in any way.
> 
> If you are going to be using mechanical drives, it would be advisable to pick up a low rpm/noise 120mm for the bottom intake spot just to keep some air moving over the drives.


Ok, you seem to be knowing what you are talking about







Will stick with the EK fans then! On multiple builds I see people putting fans in frond + behind the rad. My idea was to let the front fans pull air through the rad while the fan in the back of the case pushing the hot air out again? Will this be enough? (not planning to overclock)

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iammurphy*
> 
> My setup is near identical to you. Same cpu, motherboard, ram and hard drive.
> 
> 
> 
> I would recommend noctua fans. The vardars have to spin to fast and are to loud to cool effectively


thx for sharing your build! looks very nice







Actually you prove my question. (whether the pump can be installed on top or not) Did you have a lot of problems installing the rad into the Phanteks atx case? (clearance?)


----------



## Testing12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sazexa*
> 
> Hey guys. I'm planning on doing a pretty extensive over-haul on my current build, and leaving ITX and moving back up to ATX. I've really been eye-balling, and falling in love, with the Evolv TG.
> 
> Phanteks says the case can support 264mm wide E-ATX motherboards. Of course, I find that out after I get my heart set on an E-ATX board from ASUS that is 272mm wide. Does anyone have the Evolv ATX/TG and also have an E-ATX board that is 272mm wide, like the Rampage V, Rampage V Edition 10, or their WS board? If so, how hard was it to fit, and pictures would be appreciated GREATLY.


+1!
I'd be very interested in seeing if anyone has done this as well.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> This is not correct. It is actually *very in*correct. Noctua fans are middling at best on radiators.


I will add the PH-F120MP overlay on db to airflow graph. While it does not have the maximum rpm of the others, it is clearly one of the best up to its rpm limit.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Insr33*
> 
> Ok, you seem to be knowing what you are talking about
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Will stick with the EK fans then! On multiple builds I see people putting fans in frond + behind the rad. My idea was to let the front fans pull air through the rad while the fan in the back of the case pushing the hot air out again? Will this be enough? (not planning to overclock)
> thx for sharing your build! looks very nice
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Actually you prove my question. (whether the pump can be installed on top or not) Did you have a lot of problems installing the rad into the Phanteks atx case? (clearance?)


Eh, let's just say I have a weeeeee bit more _experience_ with components than the average user here.








That doesn't necessarily mean I know what I'm talking about.....









Two things - seeing a user with something installed in a particular fashion does not answer your question. It could very well be installed incorrectly. However, simply glancing at the install manual (https://www.ekwb.com/shop/EK-IM/EK-IM-3831109863343.pdf) or asking an EK rep in the Predator thread will get you a positive answer. Which, in this case, is that the unit can be mounted in that orientation, but may require more frequent top offs since the pump and res at the top will be more subject to the effects of evaporation.

As far as push/pull, it is advantageous on thicker radiators. On slim radiators (such as the one used on the Predator), it is nothing but another noise source with no real performance benefit. Many do it on slim rads purely for looks, or simply because they don't actually research what they are doing (which, btw, is the best way to totally screw up in liquid cooling) and believe the old "my friend's neighbor's dog walker's boyfriend's cousin put push/pull on their H100 and dropped the temps eleventy hundred degrees!!!!" posts.


----------



## shilka

I am looking for a case to house my old Rampage IV Extreme motherboard which is an E-ATX board and i was looking at both the P400 and the Enthoo Pro M but i am not sure those cases are big enough for a Rampage IV?
Am i going to have to get a Phanteks Enthoo Pro if i want to re-use my old Rampage IV?

Rampage IV size

Extended ATX Form Factor
12 inch x 10.7 inch ( 30.5 cm x 27.2 cm )

Really dont want a full tower if i can avoid it.


----------



## pez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> I am looking for a case to house my old Rampage IV Extreme motherboard which is an E-ATX board and i was looking at both the P400 and the Enthoo Pro M but i am not sure those cases are big enough for a Rampage IV?
> Am i going to have to get a Phanteks Enthoo Pro if i want to re-use my old Rampage IV?
> 
> Rampage IV size
> 
> Extended ATX Form Factor
> 12 inch x 10.7 inch ( 30.5 cm x 27.2 cm )
> 
> Really dont want a full tower if i can avoid it.


You and someone right before both asked a similar question (minus the P400). I think what interferes with the Pro M/Evolv ATX layout is that the case angles where the grommets are located, and I'm pretty sure this conflicts with that particular board, and other E-ATX boards that are >264mm. Someone else confirmed this I believe, but I'll wait for more users to chime in.


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pez*
> 
> You and someone right before both asked a similar question (minus the P400). I think what interferes with the Pro M/Evolv ATX layout is that the case angles where the grommets are located, and I'm pretty sure this conflicts with that particular board, and other E-ATX boards that are >264mm. Someone else confirmed this I believe, but I'll wait for more users to chime in.


I did read that on Phanteks´s website but i wanted to be sure
Sounds like the Pro M is out.


----------



## iammurphy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Insr33*
> 
> Ok, you seem to be knowing what you are talking about
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Will stick with the EK fans then! On multiple builds I see people putting fans in frond + behind the rad. My idea was to let the front fans pull air through the rad while the fan in the back of the case pushing the hot air out again? Will this be enough? (not planning to overclock)
> thx for sharing your build! looks very nice
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Actually you prove my question. (whether the pump can be installed on top or not) Did you have a lot of problems installing the rad into the Phanteks atx case? (clearance?)


Top mount is difficult in this case but front no problems what so ever. you will be unable to mount the predator at the front of the evolv with the pump at the bottom.


----------



## Sazexa

Newegg has a standard return policy on motherboards. Or at least the Rampage V Edition 10. I think I'm just going to orser the board and give it a shot. Unless someone can confirm. Or a possible mode with some careful useage of a dremel.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> I am looking for a case to house my old Rampage IV Extreme motherboard which is an E-ATX board and i was looking at both the P400 and the Enthoo Pro M but i am not sure those cases are big enough for a Rampage IV?
> Am i going to have to get a Phanteks Enthoo Pro if i want to re-use my old Rampage IV?
> 
> Rampage IV size
> 
> Extended ATX Form Factor
> 12 inch x 10.7 inch ( 30.5 cm x 27.2 cm )
> 
> Really dont want a full tower if i can avoid it.


Pro M motherboard compatibility, is 272mm. Tthe bend in the motherboard tray (to create more clearance for cable management) reduces clearance. This slope at bend is where the grommets are located (see Evolv ATX chassis as reference, it's basically the same chassis). If I'm not mistaken, boards wider then 264 will touch the grommets. I can't say for sure but would seem a 272mm board will fit in, but might need to remove the grommets .. and then I would want to be very sure there was enough clearance so nothing can short out.


----------



## shilka

Would like to be able to use the grommets
Its going to be the Pro then unless i can find a mid tower case from another brand that has room for a Rampage IV

Anyone know about any small cases with room for 272mm board?
At this point i dont even care if its a Corsair case just need something small cheap but with enough room.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> Would like to be able to use the grommets
> Its going to be the Pro then unless i can find a mid tower case from another brand that has room for a Rampage IV
> 
> Anyone know about any small cases with room for 272mm board?
> At this point i dont even care if its a Corsair case just need something small cheap but with enough room.


There was someone I talked to before planning to use a Rampage IV in Evolv ATX, but I don't remember if they ever did it and replied that it did or did not work.


----------



## Sazexa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> There was someone I talked to before planning to use a Rampage IV in Evolv ATX, but I don't remember if they ever did it and replied that it did or did not work.


Phanteks official E-ATX support in the Evolv ATX is 264mm wide. I don't know about the Rampage IV. But the Rampage V and V Edition 10 are both 272mm wide. I've asked around but no one has given me an answer to if they fit. I'm going to order both soon, so we'll find out.


----------



## eaglesfan398

Going to order the evolv tg. Want to hear your guys views about the case and any issues you guys have run into before I fully commit to this case. I'm coming from a 760t and know this case is only a little smaller but if anyone has a comparison with a picture that would be great!


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sazexa*
> 
> Phanteks official E-ATX support in the Evolv ATX is 264mm wide. I don't know about the Rampage IV. But the Rampage V and V Edition 10 are both 272mm wide. I've asked around but no one has given me an answer to if they fit. I'm going to order both soon, so we'll find out.


The IV is the same size as the V and V 10 Edition so if they can fit please tell me.


----------



## Testing12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sazexa*
> 
> Newegg has a standard return policy on motherboards. Or at least the Rampage V Edition 10. I think I'm just going to orser the board and give it a shot. Unless someone can confirm. Or a possible mode with some careful useage of a dremel.


How would a dremel help?
Hmm... maybe cut out the bend (where the grommets are) entirely and leave it open?
That could work I guess...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Pro M motherboard compatibility, is 272mm.


Here is what the Phanteks website says regarding the specs of the Pro M (both Acrylic and non-Acrylic) Motherboard Support: E-ATX *(up to 264mm wide), ATX, Micro ATX, Mini ITX.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Tthe bend in the motherboard tray (to create more clearance for cable management) reduces clearance. This slope at bend is where the grommets are located (see Evolv ATX chassis as reference, it's basically the same chassis). If I'm not mistaken, boards wider then 264 will touch the grommets. I can't say for sure but would seem a 272mm board will fit in, but might need to remove the grommets .. and then I would want to be very sure there was enough clearance so nothing can short out.


I'm sitting on the opposite side of the fence. I haven't tried it either, but because of the bend (as you mention in your post quoted above) it doesn't look like 272mm is going to fit.
However, I really hope I'm wrong! I hope someone will post here who has actual experience with the Pro M or the Evolv ATX (which I'm more interested in).

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> Would like to be able to use the grommets
> Its going to be the Pro then unless i can find a mid tower case from another brand that has room for a Rampage IV
> 
> Anyone know about any small cases with room for 272mm board?
> At this point i dont even care if its a Corsair case just need something small cheap but with enough room.


The Corsair Carbide 400c will fit an E-ATX case (according to the specs listed on the Corsair site here: http://www.corsair.com/en-us/carbide-series-clear-400c-compact-mid-tower-case). It's pretty small (425mm x 215mm x 464mm) and many seem to like it (it gets from lukewarm to very good reviews).
Hope that helps...


----------



## mfknjadagr8

edit: answered my own question...my brain wasnt working


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eaglesfan398*
> 
> Going to order the evolv tg. Want to hear your guys views about the case and any issues you guys have run into before I fully commit to this case. I'm coming from a 760t and know this case is only a little smaller but if anyone has a comparison with a picture that would be great!


Negatives
- Tall ram and a top mounted 280mm rad with fans in push will NOT work (without cutting the fans).
- Push/pull or pull is only possible up top by modifying the top bracket (although this isn't really advisable due to little room for the fans to move air).
- You can't use the lower HDD sled mounts when you have a 280mm or larger rad installed. Same deal with the top PSU cover pump mount (floor mount is ok).
- If you use a 240/280 rad up top you will want to seal off the open space to prevent re-circulation of warm air.
- In general this case is not for people who want multiple HDDs and multi radiator support.
- Case is a little on the louder side compared to say a Fractal Design Define case. (sound dampening material will help a bit here)

Positives
- It is made exceptionally well. A step up from Corsair for sure.
- It looks amazing. Subjective... but not really. It looks amazing.
- Exterior is scratch resistant. Tempered glass is better than acrylic in this regard as well. Needs a bit more dusting though.
- There are lots of mounting, routing, tie down, pass through, etc cable, tube, whatever options. Chances are if one run doesn't work, there is another that will.
- Top radiator bracket is a life saver.
- Mounting stuff is very easy... overall an easy case to build in.
- Front and top panels are easy to take off.
- Phanteks offers replacement parts for just about every part of the case (this helps if you plan on modding)


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iammurphy*
> 
> Top mount is difficult in this case but front no problems what so ever. you will be unable to mount the predator at the front of the evolv with the pump at the bottom.


Wrong case. He is looking at the Evolv *ATX*, and there is absolutely no problem top mounting in that case.


----------



## iammurphy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Wrong case. He is looking at the Evolv *ATX*, and there is absolutely no problem top mounting in that case.


I have three of the evolv atx. Black grey and a tempered glass Galaxy silver. It is a pain in the ass to top Mount it without removing the rear fan


----------



## Faster_is_better

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gil80*
> 
> hi all,
> 
> I have the enthoo primo and for the top rad I use Aplhacool nexxos 420/60.
> What would you recommend for mounting the radiator? I currently have it installed where the ports are at the back of the case.
> Is it better if the ports are facing the front of the case?


Doesn't matter, just depends on how you want to run your tubing and what you think looks best.


----------



## eaglesfan398

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> Negatives
> - Tall ram and a top mounted 280mm rad with fans in push will NOT work (without cutting the fans).
> - Push/pull or pull is only possible up top by modifying the top bracket (although this isn't really advisable due to little room for the fans to move air).
> - You can't use the lower HDD sled mounts when you have a 280mm or larger rad installed. Same deal with the top PSU cover pump mount (floor mount is ok).
> - If you use a 240/280 rad up top you will want to seal off the open space to prevent re-circulation of warm air.
> - In general this case is not for people who want multiple HDDs and multi radiator support.
> - Case is a little on the louder side compared to say a Fractal Design Define case. (sound dampening material will help a bit here)
> 
> Positives
> - It is made exceptionally well. A step up from Corsair for sure.
> - It looks amazing. Subjective... but not really. It looks amazing.
> - Exterior is scratch resistant. Tempered glass is better than acrylic in this regard as well. Needs a bit more dusting though.
> - There are lots of mounting, routing, tie down, pass through, etc cable, tube, whatever options. Chances are if one run doesn't work, there is another that will.
> - Top radiator bracket is a life saver.
> - Mounting stuff is very easy... overall an easy case to build in.
> - Front and top panels are easy to take off.
> - Phanteks offers replacement parts for just about every part of the case (this helps if you plan on modding)


Thank You! I only have a stealth 360 black ice and a 240 black ice so everything should fit well! Can't wait to share when the case finally ships from backorder.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iammurphy*
> 
> I have three of the evolv atx. Black grey and a tempered glass Galaxy silver. It is a pain in the ass to top Mount it without removing the rear fan


What issue did you run into mounting a Predator 240 up top of an Evolv ATX? The rear fan shouldn't interfere at all. I know the Predator has some mounting quirks, but I just can't figure out where there would be an issue.


----------



## iammurphy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> What issue did you run into mounting a Predator 240 up top of an Evolv ATX? The rear fan shouldn't interfere at all. I know the Predator has some mounting quirks, but I just can't figure out where there would be an issue.


Either I misunderstood or you did. I thought he's doing the predator 360. With theach 360 it touches the rear fan and front panel.you either remove the fan or jam it to fit


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Insr33*
> 
> Had some time to investigate the feedback
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Checked both Swiftech and EK cloosed loops. EK Predator 240 looks the best option for me but I'm not sure if I can mount it as desired.. Being (almost) a complete noob when it comes to WC I was wondering the following:


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iammurphy*
> 
> Either I misunderstood or you did. I thought he's doing the predator 360. With theach 360 it touches the rear fan and front panel.you either remove the fan or jam it to fit


Ah, ok. The discussion has been about the 240, not the 360. That's why I couldn't figure out how there was a mounting issue.


----------



## Avant Garde

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> - Case is a little on the louder side compared to say a Fractal Design Define case. (sound dampening material will help a bit here)


How loud is that "on the louder side" if I may ask?


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Testing12*
> 
> How would a dremel help?
> Hmm... maybe cut out the bend (where the grommets are) entirely and leave it open?
> That could work I guess...
> Here is what the Phanteks website says regarding the specs of the Pro M (both Acrylic and non-Acrylic) Motherboard Support: E-ATX *(up to 264mm wide), ATX, Micro ATX, Mini ITX.
> I'm sitting on the opposite side of the fence. I haven't tried it either, but because of the bend (as you mention in your post quoted above) it doesn't look like 272mm is going to fit.
> However, I really hope I'm wrong! I hope someone will post here who has actual experience with the Pro M or the Evolv ATX (which I'm more interested in).
> The Corsair Carbide 400c will fit an E-ATX case (according to the specs listed on the Corsair site here: http://www.corsair.com/en-us/carbide-series-clear-400c-compact-mid-tower-case). It's pretty small (425mm x 215mm x 464mm) and many seem to like it (it gets from lukewarm to very good reviews).
> Hope that helps...


While talking with one of Phantek's designers and he told me 272mm fits, but published 264mm because of the grommet. But please feel free to do whatever you want.


----------



## Sazexa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> While talking with one of Phantek's designers and he told me 272mm fits, but published 264mm because of the grommet. But please feel free to do whatever you want.


So, does this mean it fits but touches/partially covers the grommet? I'd be okay with that.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Testing12*
> 
> How would a dremel help?
> Hmm... maybe cut out the bend (where the grommets are) entirely and leave it open?
> That could work I guess...


That was kind of the plan. Cut out possibly a small rectangle. But if what doyll said holds true, I won't need to!


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eaglesfan398*
> 
> Thank You! I only have a stealth 360 black ice and a 240 black ice so everything should fit well! Can't wait to share when the case finally ships from backorder.


That should fit perfectly. You should be able to keep the bottom HDD mounts as well. Newegg has pretty quick stock refreshes. My order went through 3 days after it went out of stock
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Avant Garde*
> 
> How loud is that "on the louder side" if I may ask?


IDK... ~15%. My test wasn't exactly scientific. I just mounted 6 fans and run them off the PSU. The define front panel doors an exceptional job of learning the from fan noise. I noticed I could hear the fans in the Evolv a little more.

I'm installing sound deadening material all around. An acoustic consulting company (seems legit?) I called actually recommended sponge neoprene. Super cheap vs normal sound deadening material.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sazexa*
> 
> So, does this mean it fits but touches/partially covers the grommet? I'd be okay with that.
> That was kind of the plan. Cut out possibly a small rectangle. But if what doyll said holds true, I won't need to!


If what I say is true?
How about you forget everything I said and do whatever you want!








I


----------



## Testing12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> While talking with one of Phantek's designers and he told me 272mm fits, but published 264mm because of the grommet.


This is good news then as the mobo I'm interested in is 272mm wide and I really like the Evolv ATX.


----------



## Testing12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sazexa*
> 
> So, does this mean it fits but touches/partially covers the grommet? I'd be okay with that.


It's not the grommets you need to worry about, it's the motherboard traces or solder joints/points, etc. (on the backside of the board) coming into contact with the metal of the case. At least, that's what I'm given to understand.


----------



## Avant Garde

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> I'm installing sound deadening material all around. An acoustic consulting company (seems legit?) I called actually recommended sponge neoprene. Super cheap vs normal sound deadening material.


Great! I'm looking forward to your noise test results and photos of your setup.


----------



## thekingbeyond

After a Swiftech H220-X stopped working, I have decided to go back to my trusty noctua d14. I own a luxe case and was after some advice on the best case fan setup, would be using noctua nf p14 flx on the cooler and for case fans


----------



## Sazexa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> If what I say is true?
> How about you forget everything I said and do whatever you want!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I


I didn't mean to offend you... I was just saying. Lol It was useful information. sorry about that!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Testing12*
> 
> It's not the grommets you need to worry about, it's the motherboard traces or solder joints/points, etc. (on the backside of the board) coming into contact with the metal of the case. At least, that's what I'm given to understand.


I've got tons of ways to avoid that.


----------



## Gil80

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gil80*
> 
> hi all,
> 
> I have the enthoo primo and for the top rad I use Aplhacool nexxos 420/60.
> What would you recommend for mounting the radiator? I currently have it installed where the ports are at the back of the case.
> Is it better if the ports are facing the front of the case?


anyone?


----------



## Sazexa

So, I've found this image on hardwareasylum.com

They're using a Gigabyte X99 SOC Champion motherboard, which is E-ATX at 264mm wide, inside an Evolv ATX TG. As you can see from the image below, there really isn't too much more room left for clearance. I think I can get the board I want to fit, as it only require 8mm more (~ 0.3").



It looks like it will fit, and the Rampage V 10 Edition has the "armor" on the back of the board. Hopefully that can prevent it from having a short. We'll see what happens, I'm just going to order the parts and see. If it doesn't work, I'll send the board back, or consider modding the case. Here's a link to the article if anyone wants to see it. http://www.hardwareasylum.com/reviews/cases/enthoo_atx_tempered/page5.aspx


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gil80*
> 
> anyone?


It doesn't matter which way the ports are facing. Are you asking which direction will give you the best performance? I'm a little confused as to what the quesetion is. Just point them in the direction where it would give you the cleanest routing of tubing. Here is my Alphacool UT60 420mm in push/pull in my Primo. My ports are on the right side of the case. Just be aware that you will lose a lot of 5.25 inch bay space if you do it like I did. So if you have a lot of 5.25 inch drives I would be careful.


----------



## Gil80

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> It doesn't matter which way the ports are facing. Are you asking which direction will give you the best performance? I'm a little confused as to what the quesetion is. Just point them in the direction where it would give you the cleanest routing of tubing. Here is my Alphacool UT60 420mm in push/pull in my Primo. My ports are on the right side of the case. Just be aware that you will lose a lot of 5.25 inch bay space if you do it like I did. So if you have a lot of 5.25 inch drives I would be careful.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Easiest routing / access, not performance.
Thanks for the photos and thanks for the warning on the 5.25 bays... I didn't think about it.


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gil80*
> 
> Easiest routing / access, not performance.
> Thanks for the photos and thanks for the warning on the 5.25 bays... I didn't think about it.


No problem!


----------



## Testing12

Here's a system build on PCPartPicker with an ASUS Rampage Extreme (272mm wide) in an Evolv ATX. It's a really tight fit, but the builder says it's working. Check out the info and pics on the page: https://pcpartpicker.com/b/wNM8TW

Here are 3 examples:







Builder says he had to put the 24pin through the grommet hole prior to mounting the motherboard.
Also, check out the 2 sata plugs with the folded over cables.

Hope that helps...


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> IDK... ~15%. My test wasn't exactly scientific. I just mounted 6 fans and run them off the PSU. The define front panel doors an exceptional job of learning the from fan noise. I noticed I could hear the fans in the Evolv a little more.
> 
> I'm installing sound deadening material all around. An acoustic consulting company (seems legit?) I called actually recommended sponge neoprene. Super cheap vs normal sound deadening material.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sazexa*
> 
> I didn't mean to offend you... I was just saying. Lol It was useful information. sorry about that!
> I've got tons of ways to avoid that.


Yes, the Define design is good at blocking / absorbing noise, but at the cost of low flow fans. Most people (myself included) changed out front fans to better ones.

I'm interested in hearing (no pun) how your sound dampening works out. My experiences is vents are the biggest noise source unless baffled like define with panel (door) in front of fan vent. The best way I found to lower noise levels was to have good fans speed controlled by heat / airflow needs of components .. the same as CPU and GPU cooler fans are. This means the spin slow and quiet except when system is working hard.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thekingbeyond*
> 
> After a Swiftech H220-X stopped working, I have decided to go back to my trusty noctua d14. I own a luxe case and was after some advice on the best case fan setup, would be using noctua nf p14 flx on the cooler and for case fans


Best is to change front intake to PH-F140SP fans and possibly a bottom intake supplying GPU. Simple test is use the 2x PH-F140SP that came with the case to replace the PH-F200SP in front and see what your temps are like. On mine I blocked the front 2/3rds of top vent and use PH-F140SP front and bottom intakes .. no exhaust fans needed. CPU cooler intake air temp is 3-5c above room when stress testing CPU and GPU.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thekingbeyond*
> 
> After a Swiftech H220-X stopped working, I have decided to go back to my trusty noctua d14. I own a luxe case and was after some advice on the best case fan setup, would be using noctua nf p14 flx on the cooler and for case fans


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> That should fit perfectly. You should be able to keep the bottom HDD mounts as well. Newegg has pretty quick stock refreshes. My order went through 3 days after it went out of stock
> IDK... ~15%. My test wasn't exactly scientific. I just mounted 6 fans and run them off the PSU. The define front panel doors an exceptional job of learning the from fan noise. I noticed I could hear the fans in the Evolv a little more.
> 
> I'm installing sound deadening material all around. An acoustic consulting company (seems legit?) I called actually recommended sponge neoprene. Super cheap vs normal sound deadening material.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sazexa*
> 
> I didn't mean to offend you... I was just saying. Lol It was useful information. sorry about that!


I was joking.


----------



## owcraftsman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gil80*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> It doesn't matter which way the ports are facing. Are you asking which direction will give you the best performance? I'm a little confused as to what the quesetion is. Just point them in the direction where it would give you the cleanest routing of tubing. Here is my Alphacool UT60 420mm in push/pull in my Primo. My ports are on the right side of the case. Just be aware that you will lose a lot of 5.25 inch bay space if you do it like I did. So if you have a lot of 5.25 inch drives I would be careful.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Easiest routing / access, not performance.
> Thanks for the photos and thanks for the warning on the 5.25 bays... I didn't think about it.
Click to expand...

My Luxe setup Hope it helps.

Monsoon Dual Bay D5 Pump/Res

280 UT 60 push/Intake (filtered) 2-PH-F140MP

240 UT 60 Push Pull (filtered) 4-Corsair 120SP

PH-F140MP Rear Exhaust

Positive case pressure

Distilled water and silver coil only

Custom DIY satin epoxy white interior


----------



## Shiftstealth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *owcraftsman*
> 
> My Luxe setup Hope it helps.
> Monsoon Dual Bay D5 Pump/Res
> 
> 280 UT 60 push/Intake (filtered) 2-PH-F140MP
> 
> 240 UT 60 Push Pull (filtered) 4-Corsair 120SP
> 
> PH-F140MP Rear Exhaust
> 
> Positive case pressure
> 
> Distilled water and silver coil only
> 
> Custom DIY satin epoxy white interior


Too many LED's IMO.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *owcraftsman*
> 
> My Luxe setup Hope it helps.
> Monsoon Dual Bay D5 Pump/Res
> 
> 280 UT 60 push/Intake (filtered) 2-PH-F140MP
> 
> 240 UT 60 Push Pull (filtered) 4-Corsair 120SP
> 
> PH-F140MP Rear Exhaust
> 
> Positive case pressure
> 
> Distilled water and silver coil only
> 
> Custom DIY satin epoxy white interior
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Nice looking system, but a few cables look wrong; GPU and HDD are too 'in my face'. I would route them behind PSU cover and back panel and back up componet thru grommets.

Also, do you realize you are trying to move 4x fans of intake vent air out only the vent area of case back? This means you can only flow as much air through your radiators as case can exhaust out the back. front top vents .. and front top vent is exhaust is going right back into front fan on top radiator. Not a problem if things are running cool







, but if not that is the reason.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shiftstealth*
> 
> Too many LED's IMO.


Keep in mind that photos of LEDs are drastically different than what they look like in person. Photos generally make it appear that LEDs are more abundant and brighter than they actually are.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Also, do you realize you are trying to move 4x fans of intake vent air out only the vent area of case back? This means you can only flow as much air through your radiators as case can exhaust out the back. front top vents .. and front top vent is exhaust is going right back into front fan on top radiator. Not a problem if things are running cool
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , but if not that is the reason.


This is something that rarely gets mentioned, often is denied when it is, but is very important. What goes in, must come out. The more resistance there is to air going out....the more resistance there will be to air coming in. That means that fans will need to run at a higher rpm to do the same job and more static pressure will exist.

Also, I have always seen the "run all rads as intake" as an excuse not to take the time to set up case airflow correctly. If you take the time, you can get the same temp results with less noise.


----------



## eaglesfan398

Is it possible to not move the drive bay at the bottom and just mount a d5 next to it?


----------



## Chopper1591

Grr. I am also waiting for my Primo. Takes long for new batch to be finished.

People here using a EK d5 x-res? Care to share pictures of your mount? Looking for ideas here.

Thanks


----------



## mindwarper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> Grr. I am also waiting for my Primo. Takes long for new batch to be finished.
> 
> People here using a EK d5 x-res? Care to share pictures of your mount? Looking for ideas here.
> 
> Thanks


Let us know when u do get the box and start building...


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> Grr. I am also waiting for my Primo. Takes long for new batch to be finished.
> 
> People here using a EK d5 x-res? Care to share pictures of your mount? Looking for ideas here.
> 
> Thanks


ive decided to mount my res to the top of the rad with the universal bracket mount...its going to be too costly to use the intended spot behind the mobo so a 15 dollar bracket or 70 dollars in fittings...and it will be displayed...


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mindwarper*
> 
> Let us know when u do get the box and start building...


I will.
Will probably also make a log, sort off.

I'm not good at making logs.








Already have some pictures ready of the radiator restoration.

Edit:








Why..... the stock on Primo cases.

Just checked on Casekings.de as they display expected delivery of the Primo (thanks for the tip fellow OCer, forgot who told me







). Link (clicky)
Expected *11-8-2016* !!!

Ah men... I can't wait that long.








Just sent a e-mail to Phanteks support to ask about the issue. Out of stock everywhere (at least where I can buy), sadly they won't ship directly to me from the Phanteks web store.


----------



## owcraftsman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *owcraftsman*
> 
> My Luxe setup Hope it helps.
> Monsoon Dual Bay D5 Pump/Res
> 
> 280 UT 60 push/Intake (filtered) 2-PH-F140MP
> 
> 240 UT 60 Push Pull (filtered) 4-Corsair 120SP
> 
> PH-F140MP Rear Exhaust
> 
> Positive case pressure
> 
> Distilled water and silver coil only
> 
> Custom DIY satin epoxy white interior
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Pics of Luxe
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Nice looking system, but a few cables look wrong; GPU and HDD are too 'in my face'. I would route them behind PSU cover and back panel and back up componet thru grommets.
> 
> Also, do you realize you are trying to move 4x fans of intake vent air out only the vent area of case back? This means you can only flow as much air through your radiators as case can exhaust out the back. front top vents .. and front top vent is exhaust is going right back into front fan on top radiator. Not a problem if things are running cool
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , but if not that is the reason.
Click to expand...

I have tried it both ways not lazy as some would suggest. First I tried 4 in (front rad) 3 (out rear and top rad). Second and as it is in the pics I have 6 in (front & top rad ) and 1 out (rear case). You are correct the old way was slightly better but we are talking 1-2C idle and no improvement under load making the positive case pressure, therefore less dust, the key reason why I don't change it back. I've considered a more potent fan for the rear exhaust, removing all expansion slot covers and pull vs push for the top rad, still set as intake, for improvements but haven't tried those things yet. If you have any suggestions I haven't thought of please part with your wisdom I'd be glad to consider it. Of course I always prefer push/pull but that's just not practical in a Luxe @ the top rad.

@Shiftstealth The UV lights take horrible pics and I was using a phone (best camera I have) and like @ciarlatano suggest pics don't do it justice. The UV lights are very dim in person but I will admit the rear I/O lights are over kill but I love having them there. I'd like to add a switch for them but I guess I'm lazy.  I got the Dazmod Darkside LED light strips because they are dimmable however they don't dim as much as I would like but don't get me wrong though, I love these thing and again they are not near as bright in person. I will replace all my leds with these bad boys over time they are that good. Lite weight, easy to install, with fan header connector which means you can control them in bios or a fan controller as desired and black pcb for a very clean look. I want to try the RGB ones next.

@doyll I agree with your opinion of the GPU & Sata cable. In my defense I added a backup HDD and was in a hurry, sata cable my bad, and it's a shame to see that sweet grommet go to waste. Maybe I'll put a temp sensor down there to cover it and move the cable to the back as suggested.

Thanks for the input guys!


----------



## Sazexa

Okay everyone. So, I've ordered the case and the Edition 10 motherboard. I'll take some photos when they come in. Here's the planned hardware list.

Phanteks Evolv ATX TG (Silver)
Intel i7-6950X
ASUS Rampage V Edition 10 Motherboard
Corsair Dominator Platinum 8x4GB DDR4 3,000 MHz (If they release the Vengeance LED modules in 4GB sticks, I'll likely get those instead.)
NVidia GTX 980 (I have this in my current build. Debating on getting a second, or selling it and buying a 1080/two)
Intel 730 Series 480GB SSD (In my current PC, might put this in my laptop when the Samsung 960/961 NVMe 1TB SSD's release and use those instead)
Western Digital Black 6TB HDD (In my current build)
Corsair AX860 (Will either do my own cables, or get a cablemod kit)

And using some of my EK stuff, I'm going to set up the watercooling loop. Part of why I'm leaning towards second 980 for now, as it'd be cheaper with the block. I'm also going to try and use two 360mm radiators, with some of the LTT edition Noctua NF-F12's for an all-black look. Although, if the price on EK Vardars is right, I might settle for those. I'm also looking into what I'm going to do for that 3.5" HDD mount, because that needs to move for the front 360mm to fit, correct? I might also need to get a new pump. Right now I have a DDC pump, but between two GPU blocks, a CPU block, and two 360mm radiators, I might want something else like the D5 pumps.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sazexa*
> 
> Okay everyone. So, I've ordered the case and the Edition 10 motherboard. I'll take some photos when they come in. Here's the planned hardware list.
> 
> Phanteks Evolv ATX TG (Silver)
> Intel i7-6950X
> ASUS Rampage V Edition 10 Motherboard
> Corsair Dominator Platinum 8x4GB DDR4 3,000 MHz (If they release the Vengeance LED modules in 4GB sticks, I'll likely get those instead.)
> NVidia GTX 980 (I have this in my current build. Debating on getting a second, or selling it and buying a 1080/two)
> Intel 730 Series 480GB SSD (In my current PC, might put this in my laptop when the Samsung 960/961 NVMe 1TB SSD's release and use those instead)
> Western Digital Black 6TB HDD (In my current build)
> Corsair AX860 (Will either do my own cables, or get a cablemod kit)
> 
> And using some of my EK stuff, I'm going to set up the watercooling loop. Part of why I'm leaning towards second 980 for now, as it'd be cheaper with the block. I'm also going to try and use two 360mm radiators, with some of the LTT edition Noctua NF-F12's for an all-black look. Although, if the price on EK Vardars is right, I might settle for those. I'm also looking into what I'm going to do for that 3.5" HDD mount, because that needs to move for the front 360mm to fit, correct? I might also need to get a new pump. Right now I have a DDC pump, but between two GPU blocks, a CPU block, and two 360mm radiators, I might want something else like the D5 pumps.


If I were you, I would be apt to "settle" for the Vardar given that they are better performers on radiators.


----------



## Testing12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sazexa*
> 
> Okay everyone. So, I've ordered the case and the Edition 10 motherboard. I'll take some photos when they come in.


Sweet! Looking forward to seeing how the board fits into that case.
If possible, could you get a pic showing how the case fits next to, or on the grommets like the one you posted in this post: http://www.overclock.net/t/1418637/official-case-phanteks-case-club-for-lovers-owners/13870#post_25285494

And, good luck with the build. It's going to be very nice indeed!


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> I will.
> Will probably also make a log, sort off.
> 
> I'm not good at making logs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Already have some pictures ready of the radiator restoration.
> 
> Edit:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Why..... the stock on Primo cases.
> 
> Just checked on Casekings.de as they display expected delivery of the Primo (thanks for the tip fellow OCer, forgot who told me
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ). Link (clicky)
> Expected *11-8-2016* !!!
> 
> Ah men... I can't wait that long.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just sent a e-mail to Phanteks support to ask about the issue. Out of stock everywhere (at least where I can buy), sadly they won't ship directly to me from the Phanteks web store.


OcUK shows 10 in stock.
https://www.overclockers.co.uk/phanteks-enthoo-primo-full-tower-black-red-ca-019-pt.html
(OcUK is owned by CaseKing)


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> OcUK shows 10 in stock.
> https://www.overclockers.co.uk/phanteks-enthoo-primo-full-tower-black-red-ca-019-pt.html
> (OcUK is owned by CaseKing)


Good share.

Bought it


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> Good share.
> 
> Bought it


Glad to help a fellow Phanteks owner.








If I may ask, where are you located?


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Glad to help a fellow Phanteks owner.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If I may ask, where are you located?


I am from the Netherlands.

Have to say I was almost about to switch to a TT Core x9.
Glad you posted the above. Have also already received a note that it is being shipped. Curious to how long it takes.

Sadly it is like €40 more from that store


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> I am from the Netherlands.
> 
> *Have to say I was almost about to switch to a TT Core x9.*
> Glad you posted the above. Have also already received a note that it is being shipped. Curious to how long it takes.
> 
> Sadly it is like €40 more from that store










You would have been one unhappy guy when you got that box open when you had Primo type expectations.

Glad you got it sorted out.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> I am from the Netherlands.
> 
> Have to say I was almost about to switch to a TT Core x9.
> Glad you posted the above. Have also already received a note that it is being shipped. Curious to how long it takes.
> 
> Sadly it is like €40 more from that store


Even at €40 more it I think it's worth it, and most of that is probably shipping charges.


----------



## Sazexa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Testing12*
> 
> Sweet! Looking forward to seeing how the board fits into that case.
> If possible, could you get a pic showing how the case fits next to, or on the grommets like the one you posted in this post: http://www.overclock.net/t/1418637/official-case-phanteks-case-club-for-lovers-owners/13870#post_25285494
> 
> And, good luck with the build. It's going to be very nice indeed!


With all this pre-talk about fitment, I had planned to.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> If I were you, I would be apt to "settle" for the Vardar given that they are better performers on radiators.


Okay. I'll get those then. Are the Vardars quieter? I'm guessing for cooling I should be fine, so, whichever fan is quieter might be the one I prefer at this point. I'll basically have 240mm of radiator space per real hot component.


----------



## pez

Fans are here, but not installed yet. GTX 1070 looks pretty sweet in the build so far, though







. I do need to figure out if I want to use the white sleeving I bought for my build or this one. I thought about actually converting to Mini ITX for mine with the red and black Evolv ITX, but Z97 mITX boards are nearly extinct at this point







.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sazexa*
> 
> Okay. I'll get those then. Are the Vardars quieter? I'm guessing for cooling I should be fine, so, whichever fan is quieter might be the one I prefer at this point. I'll basically have 240mm of radiator space per real hot component.


The Vardars are quieter when the amount of air moved is the same:


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You would have been one unhappy guy when you got that box open when you had Primo type expectations.
> 
> Glad you got it sorted out.


Never seen/used a Primo myself but I thought the same.

I liked my Corsair 650d when i first got it, much beter than the CM-690 I had before that but the Primo should be above that head and shoulders.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Even at €40 more it I think it's worth it, and most of that is probably shipping charges.


Not really actually. The store I bought from at first had them for only €215 + 7 shipping. Shipping from the UK store is around €18.

But still. €260 is fine for such a case. Alternative would be the SMA8 which is obviously around double the price. But better ofcourse.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> Never seen/used a Primo myself but I thought the same.
> 
> I liked my Corsair 650d when i first got it, much beter than the CM-690 I had before that but the Primo should be above that head and shoulders.
> Not really actually. The store I bought from at first had them for only €215 + 7 shipping. Shipping from the UK store is around €18.
> 
> But still. €260 is fine for such a case. Alternative would be the SMA8 which is obviously around double the price. But better ofcourse.


€18 is very reasonable!
Maybe it's a Brexit thing?


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> €18 is very reasonable!
> Maybe it's a Brexit thing?


Who know, haha.

This is what I paid, reasonable indeed (UK is not that far though):


Directly from Phanteks would be cheaper though. They don't charge shipping.... when they ship.


----------



## kcuestag

Is there an easy way on the Enthoo Luxe to install a 120mm or 140mm fan between the GPU's and the HDD/Drive cages? To those holes actually match for those kind of fans?

I'm looking into adding some more cooling so that my M2 SSD can get a bit more air. Here's how it's installed right now (M.2 SSD is behind 2nd/lower GPU):


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> Is there an easy way on the Enthoo Luxe to install a 120mm or 140mm fan between the GPU's and the HDD/Drive cages? To those holes actually match for those kind of fans?
> 
> I'm looking into adding some more cooling so that my M2 SSD can get a bit more air. Here's how it's installed right now (M.2 SSD is behind 2nd/lower GPU):


I don't know the answer but I had to lol at your comp name.


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rfarmer*
> 
> I don't know the answer but I had to lol at your comp name.


Yeah, it started as a joke in 2011 but kept it like that, never been able to wait till Christmas for upgrades.


----------



## Sazexa

Hey guys.

If I use a 360mm radiator in the front of the case, will I loose the 3.5" HDD cage and mount? I only have one 3.5" drive, but I'd like a place to mount it with two 360mm radiators.


----------



## Shiftstealth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sazexa*
> 
> Hey guys.
> 
> If I use a 360mm radiator in the front of the case, will I loose the 3.5" HDD cage and mount? I only have one 3.5" drive, but I'd like a place to mount it with two 360mm radiators.


Which case?


----------



## Sazexa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shiftstealth*
> 
> Which case?


Sorry, should have mentioned that! Phanteks Evolv ATX TG


----------



## Shiftstealth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sazexa*
> 
> Sorry, should have mentioned that! Phanteks Evolv ATX TG


I would think you'd lose the mount. I haven't tried it, i only have a 240MM in mine in the front. I would try to answer this better for you, but i'm not at home to look


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sazexa*
> 
> Hey guys.
> 
> If I use a 360mm radiator in the front of the case, will I loose the 3.5" HDD cage and mount? I only have one 3.5" drive, but I'd like a place to mount it with two 360mm radiators.


Phanteks make a single drive mount that fits in right in front of the PSU, you can find it on their accessories page - .http://www.phanteksusa.com/products/phanteks-hdd-bracket You would have to use that since you would have to remove the cage to use a 360 in the front.


----------



## greg1184

Primo users, where do you put your tube reservoirs? The reservoir bracket doesn't fit with the length of my 980 ti. The rear reservoir slot below the rear fan seems to also conflict with my graphics card since is sticks out too much. Currently I am using a bay reservoir.

I always thought for a tower at that price designed for enthusiast watercoolers you would think you would be able to use something other than a bay reservoir.


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *greg1184*
> 
> Primo users, where do you put your tube reservoirs? The reservoir bracket doesn't fit with the length of my 980 ti. The rear reservoir slot below the rear fan seems to also conflict with my graphics card since is sticks out too much. Currently I am using a bay reservoir.
> 
> I always thought for a tower at that price designed for enthusiast watercoolers you would think you would be able to use something other than a bay reservoir.


Should've done some research I guess. I am in the same boat (have a r9 290)

I guess you have to get creative and mod a bit. I doubt there is not enough room between your gpu and the side panel for a tube res. You also have the 5,25" bay which can be altered to mount a res. You can even mount it horizontal if you want to.

Enough options really.


----------



## Shiftstealth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> Should've done some research I guess. I am in the same boat (have a r9 290)
> 
> I guess you have to get creative and mod a bit. I doubt there is not enough room between your gpu and the side panel for a tube res. You also have the 5,25" bay which can be altered to mount a res. You can even mount it horizontal if you want to.
> 
> Enough options really.


With a name like Chopper i feel like modding isn't a problem for you


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shiftstealth*
> 
> With a name like Chopper i feel like modding isn't a problem for you


.......

I'm just saying... there has to be an solution for the man.
This case is pretty big, make use of it.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> Is there an easy way on the Enthoo Luxe to install a 120mm or 140mm fan between the GPU's and the HDD/Drive cages? To those holes actually match for those kind of fans?
> 
> I'm looking into adding some more cooling so that my M2 SSD can get a bit more air. Here's how it's installed right now (M.2 SSD is behind 2nd/lower GPU):


what rfarmer said.









What temp is our SSD running?

Honesty, the idiots who designed these mobos with M2 socket where it is should be strung up by their short hairs! .. and tasered at least once for each time one is sold!


----------



## CalinTM

Like my new case look ?


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CalinTM*
> 
> Like my new case look ?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> IMG_1283.JPG 2813k .JPG file
> 
> 
> IMG_1287.JPG 3469k .JPG file


I don't know .. because I'm not going to download images to look and see. You can use the forum to post pics by clicking on the image in menu of a landscape picture.


----------



## mindwarper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Glad to help a fellow Phanteks owner.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If I may ask, where are you located?
> 
> 
> 
> I am from the Netherlands.
> 
> Have to say I was almost about to switch to a TT Core x9.
> Glad you posted the above. Have also already received a note that it is being shipped. Curious to how long it takes.
> 
> Sadly it is like €40 more from that store
Click to expand...

So am I... I was also contemplating the TT Core X9...
But will go for Primo indeed... only difference from you is that I prefer black or black/white...

I have seen that 4Launch has a white Primo in stock now... but I am not sure about white... any1 experience with white cases?

edit: I also looked at OcUK site and saw some pics of the primo they have in stock... difficult to make up my mind like that... all the coloured inside parts are a bit "in your face" if u catch my drift... is that same for some of you?

Can you perhaps make pictures of the case when it arrives... would like to see the black/red inside of case, maybe I will switch lol


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> what rfarmer said.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What temp is our SSD running?
> 
> Honesty, the idiots who designed these mobos with M2 socket where it is should be strung up by their short hairs! .. and tasered at least once for each time one is sold!


It idles around 50-55ºC (Which shows as yellow on Crystal Disk Info), to be honest I haven't checked while gaming but I am guessing higher than that.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> It idles around 50-55ºC (Which shows as yellow on Crystal Disk Info), to be honest I haven't checked while gaming but I am guessing higher than that.


Could you check it while gaming?

While I don't think 50-55c is not a problem, lower would be nice. You could try removing the PCIe back slot covers behind it and see what that does to the temps. Hard to say if it will increase or decrease them.

And when we get your SSD cooler, would you like to help me taser the design engineers?


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mindwarper*
> 
> So am I... I was also contemplating the TT Core X9...
> But will go for Primo indeed... only difference from you is that I prefer black or black/white...
> 
> I have seen that 4Launch has a white Primo in stock now... but I am not sure about white... any1 experience with white cases?
> 
> edit: I also looked at OcUK site and saw some pics of the primo they have in stock... difficult to make up my mind like that... all the coloured inside parts are a bit "in your face" if u catch my drift... is that same for some of you?
> 
> Can you perhaps make pictures of the case when it arrives... would like to see the black/red inside of case, maybe I will switch lol


It really depends on the room you place the case in and perhaps the desk you place it on.

OCuk has the black/white in stock:
clicky

How is the rest of your build? Color wise?


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *greg1184*
> 
> Primo users, where do you put your tube reservoirs? The reservoir bracket doesn't fit with the length of my 980 ti. The rear reservoir slot below the rear fan seems to also conflict with my graphics card since is sticks out too much. Currently I am using a bay reservoir.
> 
> I always thought for a tower at that price designed for enthusiast watercoolers you would think you would be able to use something other than a bay reservoir.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> Should've done some research I guess. I am in the same boat (have a r9 290)
> 
> I guess you have to get creative and mod a bit. I doubt there is not enough room between your gpu and the side panel for a tube res. You also have the 5,25" bay which can be altered to mount a res. You can even mount it horizontal if you want to.
> 
> Enough options really.


The front reservoir mount should have no issue fitting with either of these. It is even notched to accommodate them. Are you confusing the plastic trim cover for the mount (which is not used when mounting a res there) with the mount, itself? Have a look at page 6 (items 12 & 13) and page 30 of your manual - http://phanteks.com/assets/manuals/PH-ES813P_Western.pdf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> Is there an easy way on the Enthoo Luxe to install a 120mm or 140mm fan between the GPU's and the HDD/Drive cages? To those holes actually match for those kind of fans?
> 
> I'm looking into adding some more cooling so that my M2 SSD can get a bit more air. Here's how it's installed right now (M.2 SSD is behind 2nd/lower GPU):


There is. It isn't in the manual, but they actually include screws specifically for it in the accessory box. There are a couple of posts here showing it, but it's like finding a specific snow flake on Mt Everest.


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> It idles around 50-55ºC (Which shows as yellow on Crystal Disk Info), to be honest I haven't checked while gaming but I am guessing higher than that.


I have a Gigabyte Z170N mini itx so the M2 slot is on the back of the motherboard. My Samsung runs 35 to 40C so I would say positioning on the front is a bad idea.


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rfarmer*
> 
> I have a Gigabyte Z170N mini itx so the M2 slot is on the back of the motherboard. My Samsung runs 35 to 40C so I would say positioning on the front is a bad idea.


To be honest it wouldn't be an issue if it wasn't right behind the 2nd GPU, I like the aesthetics looks of the SSD so I like it being on the front, but it could have been somewhere else.









Might just place a 120mm fan with no screws pointing directly to that GPU/SSD.


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> To be honest it wouldn't be an issue if it wasn't right behind the 2nd GPU, I like the aesthetics looks of the SSD so I like it being on the front, but it could have been somewhere else.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Might just place a 120mm fan with no screws pointing directly to that GPU/SSD.


Yeah if you are using a Samsung 950 Pro they are cool looking and nice to have on the front. I am using a SM951 with the ugly green pcb so I am happy it is hiding on the back.


----------



## thekingbeyond

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> To be honest it wouldn't be an issue if it wasn't right behind the 2nd GPU, I like the aesthetics looks of the SSD so I like it being on the front, but it could have been somewhere else.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Might just place a 120mm fan with no screws pointing directly to that GPU/SSD.


There is a place for 2 x 120mm fans on the HDD/Drive cages this gives additional cooling to the gpu area, the screws are included in the kit with the luxe. In my set up I have a bottom fan intake and then a fan on the hard drive cages this dropped my temps on the gpu.


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thekingbeyond*
> 
> There is a place for 2 x 120mm fans on the HDD/Drive cages this gives additional cooling to the gpu area, the screws are included in the kit with the luxe. In my set up I have a bottom fan intake and then a fan on the hard drive cages this dropped my temps on the gpu.


Mind posting some pictures to show that? I had no idea, might just place 2 120mm fans there then!!


----------



## mindwarper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *mindwarper*
> 
> So am I... I was also contemplating the TT Core X9...
> But will go for Primo indeed... only difference from you is that I prefer black or black/white...
> 
> I have seen that 4Launch has a white Primo in stock now... but I am not sure about white... any1 experience with white cases?
> 
> edit: I also looked at OcUK site and saw some pics of the primo they have in stock... difficult to make up my mind like that... all the coloured inside parts are a bit "in your face" if u catch my drift... is that same for some of you?
> 
> Can you perhaps make pictures of the case when it arrives... would like to see the black/red inside of case, maybe I will switch lol
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It really depends on the room you place the case in and perhaps the desk you place it on.
> 
> OCuk has the black/white in stock:
> clicky
> 
> How is the rest of your build? Color wise?
Click to expand...

I think I will go and use the Primo for a custom water loop in the future and a new build as well, maybe Broadwell-E or Skylake/Kaby Lake build... Not decided yet actually
So colour of my build is not decided yet, maybe my current signature rig (Z97 build) may move into it, not sure yet...

I will most likely place it on the floor lol







on my table would not be looking good in the corner of the living room where my PC corner is...
Rest of my table and surrounding furniture is black... Maybe Black/White is an option, will see...
No rush, I don;t need it right now though...

Thanks for your help and I am curious when your case arrives and your build


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mindwarper*
> 
> I think I will go and use the Primo for a custom water loop in the future and a new build as well, maybe Broadwell-E or Skylake/Kaby Lake build... Not decided yet actually
> So colour of my build is not decided yet, maybe my current signature rig (Z97 build) may move into it, not sure yet...
> 
> I will most likely place it on the floor lol
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> on my table would not be looking good in the corner of the living room where my PC corner is...
> Rest of my table and surrounding furniture is black... Maybe Black/White is an option, will see...
> No rush, I don;t need it right now though...
> 
> Thanks for your help and I am curious when your case arrives and your build


My pc corner is also in the living room but I most definitely place it on my desk. I recently made a new desk so I could place the case on it (less dust and better air circulation). Problem was more that my Corsair 650D with radiator on top was too big so I had to lower my desk because there is a bookshelf above it.









I keep telling myself that is the only reason for getting a new case and re-doing the water loop.









Besides... why would I invest such money to make a build look nice... and then place it under the desk. Nope.
Will make a build log and refer to here when I have the goodies.


----------



## dlewbell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> Is there an easy way on the Enthoo Luxe to install a 120mm or 140mm fan between the GPU's and the HDD/Drive cages? To those holes actually match for those kind of fans?
> 
> I'm looking into adding some more cooling so that my M2 SSD can get a bit more air. Here's how it's installed right now (M.2 SSD is behind 2nd/lower GPU):



You want the longer screws that came in the kit. The holes in the HDD cages are threaded. If you're thinking of upgrading your 200mm fan, do that first. You need to remove the HDD cages to get that fan out, & you have to remove any fans from the HDD cages before you can remove them. Any standard 120mm fan should fit the cages no problem.


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dlewbell*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You want the longer screws that came in the kit. The holes in the HDD cages are threaded. If you're thinking of upgrading your 200mm fan, do that first. You need to remove the HDD cages to get that fan out, & you have to remove any fans from the HDD cages before you can remove them. Any standard 120mm fan should fit the cages no problem.


Thanks, I've now added a 120mm (from Phanteks too) there my self.









I plan on keeping the 200mm fan, I kinda like it! Now need to purchase a 2nd 120mm fan so I have two on the cages instead of one.


----------



## thekingbeyond

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> Mind posting some pictures to show that? I had no idea, might just place 2 120mm fans there then!!


Just took a quick pic, I use a Noctua P14 that utilizes the upper 120mm wide mounting with some custom spacers and I have another p14 on the bottom of the case, with this layout I would not use a second lower fan as this pushes the air from the bottom fan back into the psu shroud/cover. The screw holes on the hd cage are slightly beveled/raised.
The bottom fan in conjunction with the upper hard drive cage mounted fan gave me better cooling than just two fans mounted to the hd cage, but either layout should help.


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thekingbeyond*
> 
> Just took a quick pic, I use a Noctua P14 that utilizes the upper 120mm wide mounting with some custom spacers and I have another p14 on the bottom of the case, with this layout I would not use a second lower fan as this pushes the air from the bottom fan back into the psu shroud/cover. The screw holes on the hd cage are slightly beveled/raised.
> The bottom fan in conjunction with the upper hard drive cage mounted fan gave me better cooling than just two fans mounted to the hd cage, but either layout should help.


Awesome, I added a 120mm the, and just purchased a 2nd 120mm phanteks fan so I have two, I want the lower GPU to get some more air too.


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> Awesome, I added a 120mm the, and just purchased a 2nd 120mm phanteks fan so I have two, I want the lower GPU to get some more air too.


I wanted to say earlier that is a really nice, clean build you have. How are you liking the twin 1080s? Awesome I am sure.


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rfarmer*
> 
> I wanted to say earlier that is a really nice, clean build you have. How are you liking the twin 1080s? Awesome I am sure.


They're doing great, I expected them to be noisier and hotter, but they're great.









I am in love with this case, huge attention to detail, I was amazed at the cable management options behind the motherboard tray, it's amazing.


----------



## pez

Had to add a 3rd splitter into the mix for the mITX build. 4 fans off of one header may not be the greatest idea, so I may be ordering another Phanteks fan controller.

Going to check manual for how much power that header can supply first. Dual 140SP setup for a teaser







.


----------



## pez

Phanteks sleeved cables in my Pro M and my 99% completed mITX build:


----------



## Bill Owen

Hey gang, I just need to add the clear panel and it's ready to ship. I ordered a shipping crate from OriginPC, to save myself time. It includes foam and inner cardboard shell. Scale USS Enterprise was added to the photos for Graham


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bill Owen*
> 
> Hey gang, I just need to add the clear panel and it's ready to ship. I ordered a shipping crate from OriginPC, to save myself time. It includes foam and inner cardboard shell. Scale USS Enterprise was added to the photos for Graham


Great workmanship as always, Bill!


----------



## paskowitz

Not even a fan of Star Trek, but that is one amazing build.


----------



## greg1184

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> The front reservoir mount should have no issue fitting with either of these. It is even notched to accommodate them. Are you confusing the plastic trim cover for the mount (which is not used when mounting a res there) with the mount, itself? Have a look at page 6 (items 12 & 13) and page 30 of your manual - http://phanteks.com/assets/manuals/PH-ES813P_Western.pdf
> There is. It isn't in the manual, but they actually include screws specifically for it in the accessory box. There are a couple of posts here showing it, but it's like finding a specific snow flake on Mt Everest.


The GPU clearence of the primo with the bracket is approximately 10.5in without the cover. My 980 ti classified is 11 inches long. The reference 980 ti is right at 10.5 inches.

This is assuming that the circumference of the reservoir doesn't go into the notched area.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *greg1184*
> 
> The GPU clearence of the primo with the bracket is approximately 10.5in without the cover. My 980 ti classified is 11 inches long. The reference 980 ti is right at 10.5 inches.
> 
> This is assuming that the circumference of the reservoir doesn't go into the notched area.


I had a GTX 770 Classified (which is 11") in mine and it fit with no issue. It was tight, but it fit. Maybe they changed it after first gen?


----------



## RavageTheEarth

I'm not sure who is wondering about res fitment with the GPU, but here is what mine looked like before I got a 120mm fan mount for the pump/res. I had to drill holes in the EK X-res bracket to allow it to fit on the res mount in the case. This is with my 10.5 inch long 980 Ti.




Now I've added a second pump and moved the res/pump combo down. Using 120mm fan pump adapters to attach them to the bottom radiator.


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *greg1184*
> 
> The GPU clearence of the primo with the bracket is approximately 10.5in without the cover. My 980 ti classified is 11 inches long. The reference 980 ti is right at 10.5 inches.
> 
> This is assuming that the circumference of the reservoir doesn't go into the notched area.


r9 290 user here (10.9in).
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> I'm not sure who is wondering about res fitment with the GPU, but here is what mine looked like before I got a 120mm fan mount for the pump/res. I had to drill holes in the EK X-res bracket to allow it to fit on the res mount in the case. This is with my 10.5 inch long 980 Ti.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I've added a second pump and moved the res/pump combo down. Using 120mm fan pump adapters to attach them to the bottom radiator.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Hmm looks like I will be able to mount the pump like you did but I'd rather not block the air flow from the bottom rad.


----------



## greg1184

I went ahead and tested it out. I measured my card and got just a tick mark above 11".





I tried to place the bracket back into place and reinstall the video card and it just wouldn't fit. Looks like the 1080 SC that I'm on queue for via EVGA will be slightly shorter (10.5) and I can do it.


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> Hmm looks like I will be able to mount the pump like you did but I'd rather not block the air flow from the bottom rad.


Since the 120mm fan bracket allows the pump to be raised above the radiator it really doesn't affect the airflow through the radiator in any negative way. Still have a nice breeze passing through the radiator.


----------



## paskowitz

As far as CF vinyl wrap goes i think this turned out pretty well...


----------



## Faster_is_better

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> Should've done some research I guess. I am in the same boat (have a r9 290)
> 
> I guess you have to get creative and mod a bit. I doubt there is not enough room between your gpu and the side panel for a tube res. You also have the 5,25" bay which can be altered to mount a res. You can even mount it horizontal if you want to.
> 
> Enough options really.


A r9 290 with EK block (possibly other blocks) has room to fit a reservoir on the res bracket of Primo. Removing the reference fan takes the card down to 10.5 in which is just enough.

Proof



















I did have to drill new holes and move the res to the far right of bracket but mine is also a 65mm res so its a bit wider than some.

Lots of Primo Measurements here


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Faster_is_better*
> 
> A r9 290 with EK block (possibly other blocks) has room to fit a reservoir on the res bracket of Primo. Removing the reference fan takes the card down to 10.5 in which is just enough.
> 
> Proof
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I did have to drill new holes and move the res to the far right of bracket but mine is also a 65mm res so its a bit wider than some.
> 
> Lots of Primo Measurements here


Hmm
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Faster_is_better*
> 
> A r9 290 with EK block (possibly other blocks) has room to fit a reservoir on the res bracket of Primo. Removing the reference fan takes the card down to 10.5 in which is just enough.
> 
> Proof
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I did have to drill new holes and move the res to the far right of bracket but mine is also a 65mm res so its a bit wider than some.
> 
> Lots of Primo Measurements here


Hmmm. If that is true then I must rethink my stuff.
Weird though as multiple people stated otherwise.

Any idea's on how to route my tubing? Going rigid for this one (first time trying it).

Here is the template which I use to plan tubing runs.
Much appreciate the help if some of you would take the time.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!






This is an option for example. Idea's?


First I wanted to do soft tubing again. With the pump/res at the bottom of the case I came to this:


----------



## yuyueyuyue

Recently just built a new PC using P400 case. This time I'm on air since I won't have time to do maintenance work on a water loop anymore.

Purpose of this PC is low maintenance and fewer system hiccups, so that I can start gaming without troubleshooting here and there in my limited spare time.

Few pics


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yuyueyuyue*
> 
> Recently just built a new PC using P400 case. This time I'm on air since I won't have time to do maintenance work on a water loop anymore.
> 
> Purpose of this PC is low maintenance and fewer system hiccups, so that I can start gaming without troubleshooting here and there in my limited spare time.
> 
> Few pics
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ]


To me this represents the ideal "simple" build. No futz, just a little glam and quality components.


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bill Owen*
> 
> Hey gang, I just need to add the clear panel and it's ready to ship. I ordered a shipping crate from OriginPC, to save myself time. It includes foam and inner cardboard shell. Scale USS Enterprise was added to the photos for Graham
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Stunning build. Have a build log I can check out anywhere? I'd love to see more detailed pics of the process!


----------



## Zaxbys

Question for all my fellow Pro-M Acrylic/Evolv ATX owners. What tube reservoir will natively mount between the GPU and drive cages/front rad using the stock holes that Phanteks has provided?


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zaxbys*
> 
> Question for all my fellow Pro-M Acrylic/Evolv ATX owners. What tube reservoir will natively mount between the GPU and drive cages/front rad using the stock holes that Phanteks has provided?


A Monsoon MMRS does if you configure it with two 50mm tubes. Looks pretty incredible there.


----------



## paskowitz

Getting there. Braiding tubes and painting/wrapping 240X remain. While some of the clearances are tighter than a piece of paper, overall the Evolv has been nice to build in. The pass throughs are generous and well placed. The bottom cavity can be easily adapted if formal mounting positions are lost. And there is plenty of room to to tie/stuff cables. While I liked my Define R4, this is flat out a better case.


*My smartphone camera is bad...

Someone was asking about sound deadening...


Not really concerned with how it looks since you don't see these parts. As a bonus, the surface tension of the padding is really high. I don't even have to mount the HDDs because unless I turn my case upside down, they don't move. I do wonder if the front panel padding will restrict airflow though. I guess I can cut it back a bit.


----------



## Stormflurry33

Just built a new PC in the P400. It was very easy to work in and looks great. Just waiting for the 1070 now.


----------



## Avant Garde

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> Getting there. Braiding tubes and painting/wrapping 240X remain. While some of the clearances are tighter than a piece of paper, overall the Evolv has been nice to build in. The pass throughs are generous and well placed. The bottom cavity can be easily adapted if formal mounting positions are lost. And there is plenty of room to to tie/stuff cables. While I liked my Define R4, this is flat out a better case.
> 
> 
> *My smartphone camera is bad...
> 
> Someone was asking about sound deadening...
> 
> 
> Not really concerned with how it looks since you don't see these parts. As a bonus, the surface tension of the padding is really high. I don't even have to mount the HDDs because unless I turn my case upside down, they don't move. I do wonder if the front panel padding will restrict airflow though. I guess I can cut it back a bit.


Great, It shouldn't restrict airflow, it should only lower noise levels.

Anyone else with Evolv ATX Tempered Glass?


----------



## Ludus

hi guys, i'm looking for upgrade my air 540 with a phanteks case.. maybe the new evolve glass edition that looks stunning.

could someone provide me the internal measurament ? i need, at least, put inside a 360x60mm radiator. right now in the air i can put one 360x60mm with push fan anche one 240x45mm radiator in push-pull configuration.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ludus*
> 
> hi guys, i'm looking for upgrade my air 540 with a phanteks case.. maybe the new evolve glass edition that looks stunning.
> 
> could someone provide me the internal measurament ? i need, at least, put inside a 360x60mm radiator. right now in the air i can put one 360x60mm with push fan anche one 240x45mm radiator in push-pull configuration.


Don't know if you've seen it but they have quite a bit of info about what fits here in "Specs" tab, but doesn't give radiator thickness.
An ultra-quiet, 140mm double ball-bearing fanwww.phanteksusa.com/products/phanteks-enthoo-evolv-atx-silver-tempered-glass


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ludus*
> 
> hi guys, i'm looking for upgrade my air 540 with a phanteks case.. maybe the new evolve glass edition that looks stunning.
> 
> could someone provide me the internal measurament ? i need, at least, put inside a 360x60mm radiator. right now in the air i can put one 360x60mm with push fan anche one 240x45mm radiator in push-pull configuration.


Yes, that rad combo will fit, and you can do which ever you like in the front or top.


----------



## Ludus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Don't know if you've seen it but they have quite a bit of info about what fits here in "Specs" tab, but doesn't give radiator thickness.
> An ultra-quiet, 140mm double ball-bearing fanwww.phanteksusa.com/products/phanteks-enthoo-evolv-atx-silver-tempered-glass


i have but i don't see information about the radiator's thickness that can fit inside the case.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Yes, that rad combo will fit, and you can do which ever you like in the front or top.


great ! are u sure that i can fit a 60mm thick radiator on top, plus fan it will be about 85mm thick, without problems with other component like cpu waterblock, ram and so on ?


----------



## Qgon

Hello!

I will get a Phanteks Luxe next week to replace my Corsair 780t which is waaaay to big for my needs.

My System:

- i7-5820k w/ AiO Corsair h110i GTX top exhaust
- GTX 980Ti Super Jetstream
- 16GB Corsair RAM
- 1000w Corsair PSU
- 1x 500gb SSD (4TB on external HD)

I need help with 2 questions:

1) Will the Phanteks Luxe have better/worse/similar cooling performance than my corsair 780t?
2) How should I setup my fans? I would do it like I had it on my 780t:

- 2 x 140mm Front INTAKE
- 1 x 140mm Back EXHAUST
- 2 x 140mm Top EXHAUST (on Radiator of my H110i GTX)
- OPTIONAL: 1 x 140mm Top EXHAUST (since its possible to mount 3 140mm in the Luxe)

Is that good or too much Exhaust for the Intake? Should I get 2 extra 120mm for the cages behind the Front Intake fans? Or maybe bottom INTAKE 120mm fans?

Thank you for you help guys I rly need it


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qgon*
> 
> Hello!
> 
> I will get a Phanteks Luxe next week to replace my Corsair 780t which is waaaay to big for my needs.
> 
> My System:
> 
> - i7-5820k w/ AiO Corsair h110i GTX top exhaust
> - GTX 980Ti Super Jetstream
> - 16GB Corsair RAM
> - 1000w Corsair PSU
> - 1x 500gb SSD (4TB on external HD)
> 
> I need help with 2 questions:
> 
> 1) Will the Phanteks Luxe have better/worse/similar cooling performance than my corsair 780t?
> 2) How should I setup my fans? I would do it like I had it on my 780t:
> 
> - 2 x 140mm Front INTAKE
> - 1 x 140mm Back EXHAUST
> - 2 x 140mm Top EXHAUST (on Radiator of my H110i GTX)
> - OPTIONAL: 1 x 140mm Top EXHAUST (since its possible to mount 3 140mm in the Luxe)
> 
> Is that good or too much Exhaust for the Intake? Should I get 2 extra 120mm for the cages behind the Front Intake fans? Or maybe bottom INTAKE 120mm fans?
> 
> Thank you for you help guys I rly need it


1. Performance will be similar to a touch better in terms of airflow, provided you change out the stock front 200mm to a pair of good quality 140mm.

2. The setup you describe is correct excepting your "optional". If you are going to add another fan, it should be on the floor of the case as an intake. This will help to provide cool air to the GPU, and add more intake to keep up with the high rpm fans of the CLC.


----------



## Qgon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> 1. Performance will be similar to a touch better in terms of airflow, provided you change out the stock front 200mm to a pair of good quality 140mm.
> 
> 2. The setup you describe is correct excepting your "optional". If you are going to add another fan, it should be on the floor of the case as an intake. This will help to provide cool air to the GPU, and add more intake to keep up with the high rpm fans of the CLC.


Thanks for your reply!

I will replace the 200mm with 2 Noctua NF-A14 FLX fans. I replaced the 2 stock Corsair fans of my AiO with 2 beQuiet Silent wings 2. I wanted to have a quiet yet good performing system









Will it be enough though to have "Just" the 2 140mm NF-A14 as INTAKE and 1 NF-A14 as EXHAUST paired with the 2 SIlent Wings as Exhaust too? All my fans are running at 900-1000 rpm

And one question came to my mind too. Is the Evolve ATX same/better/worse than the Enthoo Luxe? I'm leaning towards the Luxe but I'm not sure yet because the Evolv ATX might get very hot when I got the Corsair AiO as EXHAUST top?

Thanks


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Bill Owen*
> 
> Hey gang, I just need to add the clear panel and it's ready to ship. I ordered a shipping crate from OriginPC, to save myself time. It includes foam and inner cardboard shell. Scale USS Enterprise was added to the photos for Graham
> 
> 
> 
> Great workmanship as always, Bill!
Click to expand...

Very awesome Bill. Your mods and builds are the bomb! I'm a huge trekkie also so I love it just that much more.


----------



## dlewbell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qgon*
> 
> Thanks for your reply!
> 
> I will replace the 200mm with 2 Noctua NF-A14 FLX fans. I replaced the 2 stock Corsair fans of my AiO with 2 beQuiet Silent wings 2. I wanted to have a quiet yet good performing system
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Will it be enough though to have "Just" the 2 140mm NF-A14 as INTAKE and 1 NF-A14 as EXHAUST paired with the 2 SIlent Wings as Exhaust too? All my fans are running at 900-1000 rpm
> 
> And one question came to my mind too. Is the Evolve ATX same/better/worse than the Enthoo Luxe? I'm leaning towards the Luxe but I'm not sure yet because the Evolv ATX might get very hot when I got the Corsair AiO as EXHAUST top?
> 
> Thanks


Whether the 2 front intake fans will be sufficient in the Luxe is partially dependent on which HDD cages you leave installed. If you're just running SSDs, you can remove both of them. If you still have 3.5" drives, you'll want to leave one in. In my case, the PSU cable lengths forced me to use the upper cage to power everything. As such, I'm also running a 120mm on the back of the cage & one on the bottom towards the front. I think it would've been less of an issue had I been able to us the bottom HDD cage instead, as a good portion of my unobstructed airflow is aimed under the PSU shroud as is. As far as the Evolv ATX vs. the Luxe, it really depends on what you want out of it. The Luxe is a much bigger case, but also much more flexible. You can have 5.25" drives in the Luxe, & the removable filter makes it easier to work in the top area. With a single GPU & a 280mm CLC, I doubt you'd notice much difference in cooling ability between the cases.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qgon*
> 
> Thanks for your reply!
> 
> I will replace the 200mm with 2 Noctua NF-A14 FLX fans. I replaced the 2 stock Corsair fans of my AiO with 2 beQuiet Silent wings 2. I wanted to have a quiet yet good performing system
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Will it be enough though to have "Just" the 2 140mm NF-A14 as INTAKE and 1 NF-A14 as EXHAUST paired with the 2 SIlent Wings as Exhaust too? All my fans are running at 900-1000 rpm
> 
> And one question came to my mind too. Is the Evolve ATX same/better/worse than the Enthoo Luxe? I'm leaning towards the Luxe but I'm not sure yet because the Evolv ATX might get very hot when I got the Corsair AiO as EXHAUST top?
> 
> Thanks


You will be fine with what you have described above in the Luxe. However....were it me.....I would be inclined to use the SW2 as intake and the NF-A14 on the H110i. This is simply because the SW2 have notoriously bad static pressure when used on rads, and that rad is as restrictive as they get. The NF-A14 would perform a bit better on the rad at similar speed/noise levels, while the SW2 will do nicely as intakes. And....the wild card for you....the two F140SP included with the Luxe would probably have the best noise/performance on the rad of any of the fans mentioned. They would actually be the best choice for your rad in that scenario, with the Nocs as intake and exhaust.

The Evolv ATX gets a little tricky, and will likely run a little warmer than the Luxe with your setup. With the added restriction of the Luxe, you would definitely need to lose the SW2 in favor of something with better static pressure. You could very simply use the two F140SP that are included for intakes in the Evolv on your H110i and move your two NF-A14 to the front as intake - again, using the F140SP becomes part of your best configuration. You would also need to isolate the front and rear of the rad - in other words, fill the open space in the rad mount, which is easily done with damping material, tape, cardboard, plastic sheets....I use 3M self-adhesive damping material, it takes about 2 minutes to do the job and you can't see it.

After I could no longer deal with the size of the Primo, I spent a long time debating between the Evolv ATX and the Luxe. I was fortunate that I had both on hand at the time, so I got to do some first hand fitting and trials. I went with the Evolv ATX, but my build is much different than yours and a lot of my decision came down to things like the res I wanted to use fitting cleanly in front of the GPUs, pump mounting location, etc, which are obviously nothing that will be relevant to you. If I was doing a build similar to yours, I would have used the Luxe without question.


----------



## .theMetal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pez*


I love the color scheme. Only two things that would make it better is if it was a white ps4 controller and if the geforce gtx was in white lettering. I say white-out those letters!


----------



## Qgon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dlewbell*
> 
> Whether the 2 front intake fans will be sufficient in the Luxe is partially dependent on which HDD cages you leave installed. If you're just running SSDs, you can remove both of them. If you still have 3.5" drives, you'll want to leave one in. In my case, the PSU cable lengths forced me to use the upper cage to power everything. As such, I'm also running a 120mm on the back of the cage & one on the bottom towards the front. I think it would've been less of an issue had I been able to us the bottom HDD cage instead, as a good portion of my unobstructed airflow is aimed under the PSU shroud as is. As far as the Evolv ATX vs. the Luxe, it really depends on what you want out of it. The Luxe is a much bigger case, but also much more flexible. You can have 5.25" drives in the Luxe, & the removable filter makes it easier to work in the top area. With a single GPU & a 280mm CLC, I doubt you'd notice much difference in cooling ability between the cases.


Thanks!

I wont use any other storage than my SSD in that build. All my files are on 4TB External LAN disks. Is it rly a big performance gain when I let the HDD cages inside (but don't put any disks in) and put 2 x 120mm fans behind it? So I got 2 x 140mm front INTAKE and right behind it the 2 x 120mm fans to push the air faster to the GPU?


----------



## Qgon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> You will be fine with what you have described above in the Luxe. However....were it me.....I would be inclined to use the SW2 as intake and the NF-A14 on the H110i. This is simply because the SW2 have notoriously bad static pressure when used on rads, and that rad is as restrictive as they get. The NF-A14 would perform a bit better on the rad at similar speed/noise levels, while the SW2 will do nicely as intakes. And....the wild card for you....the two F140SP included with the Luxe would probably have the best noise/performance on the rad of any of the fans mentioned. They would actually be the best choice for your rad in that scenario, with the Nocs as intake and exhaust.
> 
> The Evolv ATX gets a little tricky, and will likely run a little warmer than the Luxe with your setup. With the added restriction of the Luxe, you would definitely need to lose the SW2 in favor of something with better static pressure. You could very simply use the two F140SP that are included for intakes in the Evolv on your H110i and move your two NF-A14 to the front as intake - again, using the F140SP becomes part of your best configuration. You would also need to isolate the front and rear of the rad - in other words, fill the open space in the rad mount, which is easily done with damping material, tape, cardboard, plastic sheets....I use 3M self-adhesive damping material, it takes about 2 minutes to do the job and you can't see it.
> 
> After I could no longer deal with the size of the Primo, I spent a long time debating between the Evolv ATX and the Luxe. I was fortunate that I had both on hand at the time, so I got to do some first hand fitting and trials. I went with the Evolv ATX, but my build is much different than yours and a lot of my decision came down to things like the res I wanted to use fitting cleanly in front of the GPUs, pump mounting location, etc, which are obviously nothing that will be relevant to you. If I was doing a build similar to yours, I would have used the Luxe without question.


First of all thanks for your very detailed reply. This is the 3rd forum where I tried to get some help and the first I actually GET help









I think I will take your advices with that and I will go for the Luxe. The "problem" is I rly want a very silent system and i had 5x 140 mm NF-A14 in my system before. But with the 2 fans on the AiO at full 1200 rpm my system was too loud for my needs :/ I know I'm sensitive in terms of that^^

Then I replaced 2 of them (from the Corsair Radiator) for the bequiet and let them run on full speed and my other 3 NF-A14 I run at 900 rpm and now my system is rly silent while I just got my CPU 1-2° hotter after changing the fans.

The only thing I could maybe do is putting my NF-A14 back on the Radiator when I get the nex Luxe Case and manage them all to 900-1000rpm with the FAN Hub from the case or am I wrong there?

Thanks again for your awesome help


----------



## dlewbell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qgon*
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> I wont use any other storage than my SSD in that build. All my files are on 4TB External LAN disks. Is it rly a big performance gain when I let the HDD cages inside (but don't put any disks in) and put 2 x 120mm fans behind it? So I got 2 x 140mm front INTAKE and right behind it the 2 x 120mm fans to push the air faster to the GPU?


You'll see the best performance by removing both HDD cages altogether & letting the 2x140mm fans pull air directly into the case. By doing that & attaching the SSD to the mount behind the motherboard tray, you'll be much better off than I am with one of the cages still installed.
As far as fan control goes, I'm running my CPU fans off the motherboard, & my case fans off a Reeven fan controller between 900 & 1050rpm depending on fan model & location. I tested the PWM to 3-pin hub that came with the case, & it seemed to just put everything at full speed despite being on a PWM header. I'm not sure whether mine is faulty or just incompatible with my motherboard. I never pursued it further as I already owned the fan controller at that point and I'm happy with the cooling & noise levels of my existing setup.


----------



## pez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *.theMetal*
> 
> I love the color scheme. Only two things that would make it better is if it was a white ps4 controller and if the geforce gtx was in white lettering. I say white-out those letters!


Thank you!

I got similar feedback from my boss at work







. I actually have a Lunar White XBOne controller to go with it







. My PS4 controllers just happen to sit there normally







.

And I've been looking at the mod to do it from the Titan thread. I'm a little apprehensive do it for warranty purposes. One being I went with Asus, and two being I haven't been able to stress the card just yet to make sure nothing is out-of-whack with it.

I was actually thinking of making this build the one I choose to do a custom loop with, but I'm not sure just yet. I really love the way it look so far







.


----------



## Alias

Curently have a H440 and was thinking about getting the Evolve ATX Tempered glass. Any idea if the cooling is better on the Evolve ATX than the H440 in terms of air flow?


----------



## Sazexa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alias*
> 
> Curently have a H440 and was thinking about getting the Evolve ATX Tempered glass. Any idea if the cooling is better on the Evolve ATX than the H440 in terms of air flow?


With the same fans there is likely little-to-no difference. Perhaps a bit better with the Evolv, as there aren't drive cages in the way of the intake fans.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qgon*
> 
> First of all thanks for your very detailed reply. This is the 3rd forum where I tried to get some help and the first I actually GET help
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think I will take your advices with that and I will go for the Luxe. The "problem" is I rly want a very silent system and i had 5x 140 mm NF-A14 in my system before. But with the 2 fans on the AiO at full 1200 rpm my system was too loud for my needs :/ I know I'm sensitive in terms of that^^
> 
> Then I replaced 2 of them (from the Corsair Radiator) for the bequiet and let them run on full speed and my other 3 NF-A14 I run at 900 rpm and now my system is rly silent while I just got my CPU 1-2° hotter after changing the fans.
> 
> The only thing I could maybe do is putting my NF-A14 back on the Radiator when I get the nex Luxe Case and manage them all to 900-1000rpm with the FAN Hub from the case or am I wrong there?
> 
> Thanks again for your awesome help


Not going to lie - quiet and adequate performance is very hard to get with a CLC. One thing I will point out is that the F140SP included with the case have a very low startup speed, which is great for absolute lowest noise at low loads. But, if you are happy with your current setup, no reason not to use it.


----------



## Alias

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sazexa*
> 
> With the same fans there is likely little-to-no difference. Perhaps a bit better with the Evolv, as there aren't drive cages in the way of the intake fans.


Ohh that is disappointing. I liked the looks but can't justify the upgrade if there is no improved air flow.


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alias*
> 
> Curently have a H440 and was thinking about getting the Evolve ATX Tempered glass. Any idea if the cooling is better on the Evolve ATX than the H440 in terms of air flow?


this person seems happy with the switch. even mentions better airflow and temps. I know the cpu temp should be better. the H440's top exhaust with a radiator sucks. I switched from H440 to the Luxe mainly for that reason.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alias*
> 
> Curently have a H440 and was thinking about getting the Evolve ATX Tempered glass. Any idea if the cooling is better on the Evolve ATX than the H440 in terms of air flow?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PureBlackFire*
> 
> this person seems happy with the switch. even mentions better airflow and temps. I know the cpu temp should be better. the H440's top exhaust with a radiator sucks. I switched from H440 to the Luxe mainly for that reason.


I agree with @PureBlackFire. The Evolv ATX had much better airflow than the H440 when I tested them.


----------



## Chopper1591

Goodies









Came home from work just now and this was in the hallway:



Now to find some time to plan things out and order the rest.


----------



## Avant Garde

What is the best AIO rad solution for Evolv ATX (Tempered Glass)? 240 or 360? And what is the best position for mounting?


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Avant Garde*
> 
> What is the best AIO rad solution for Evolv ATX (Tempered Glass)? 240 or 360? And what is the best position for mounting?


The Swiftech H220/240/320-X2. Only thing even remotely close would be the EK Predator. Mounted up top as EXHAUST.


----------



## paskowitz

I would NOT recommend the 240X2 up top. Your RAM clearance will be very tight. If you have another radiator, I would suggest front mounting the Swiftech.

Also of you have the extra budget, get the Prestige edition as it comes with Noiseblocker fans.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> I would NOT recommend the 240X2 up top. Your RAM clearance will be very tight. If you have another radiator, I would suggest front mounting the Swiftech.
> 
> Also of you have the extra budget, get the Prestige edition as it comes with Noiseblocker fans.


The 240-X2 should clear the RAM slots completely, unless your MB is really odd. I had a UT60+fans in with Patriot Viper Div 4 and had no issues, and that is a good 15mm+ larger than the 240-X2. I don't think you would even have an issue with the ridiculous old Kingston RAM with the X2. Front mounting is great.....if your goal is to roast a chicken on your air cooled GPU's VRM.


----------



## Avant Garde

I suppose that it's not going to be a problem according to this build for example : https://pcpartpicker.com/b/b37hP6


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Avant Garde*
> 
> I suppose that it's not going to be a problem according to this build for example : https://pcpartpicker.com/b/b37hP6


That is a 240mm, the H240-X2 is a 280mm. The H240-X2 is many people's go-to. It is only $10 more MSRP than the H220-X2 (which is 240mm), but performs just about on par with the H320-X2 (which is 320mm), but puts the res in a very visible location in the window.

Swiftech's naming scheme is number of fans (1, 2, or 3 as the first digit), size of fan (20 for 120, 40 for 140mm) and series (current being X2). So, an H140-X would be a single 140mm, H240 would be dual 140mm, H220 dual 120mm, H320 triple 120mm.


----------



## Avant Garde

Thanks! That's very informative







On what position on top is the best to put that AIO? Closer to the front or closer to the back?


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Avant Garde*
> 
> Thanks! That's very informative
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On what position on top is the best to put that AIO? Closer to the front or closer to the back?


Closer to the rear, as that is where the venting is. Also, in the Evolv ATX, it is very important that you isolate the radiator. The rad mount is cut for a 320mm, so you need to fill the space to keep the air from recirculating. It is simply done, I like the 3M self-adhesive damping material, but you can use tape, cardboard, plastic, etc. You simply need to keep the rad exhaust from blowing back down into the case rather than out the exhaust.


----------



## Alias

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> I agree with @PureBlackFire. The Evolv ATX had much better airflow than the H440 when I tested them.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PureBlackFire*
> 
> this person seems happy with the switch. even mentions better airflow and temps. I know the cpu temp should be better. the H440's top exhaust with a radiator sucks. I switched from H440 to the Luxe mainly for that reason.


Thanks for the feedback and help! Gone ahead and ordered the Phantek Galaxy Silver TG.

Regarding cooling, currently I have the Kraken X61 in push configuration in my H440 on top. Would that be the same config that works best for the Evolve ATX?

Also, any other good fans that I need to order/upgrade in the case for better cooling?


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alias*
> 
> Thanks for the feedback and help! Gone ahead and ordered the Phantek Galaxy Silver TG.
> 
> Regarding cooling, currently I have the Kraken X61 in push configuration in my H440 on top. Would that be the same config that works best for the Evolve ATX?
> 
> Also, any other good fans that I need to order/upgrade in the case for better cooling?


The funny part of this....the case comes with fans that many upgrade to, the F140SP. You will be very hard pressed to find a better fan in that application.

Yes, same config in the Evolv, the radiator must be isolated as previously mentioned.


----------



## Zaxbys

I am about to start a large build using the Pro-M but I really need some final guidance on the radiator support. I have watched a few videos and looked at some builds others have done in this case and the Evolve ATX. I found I can fit AP-15's on the top of the radiator bracket to allow for push pull. My question is that can I fit an XT45 or another 45mm radiator on the top and the front and not block the cpu water block on the top and prevent myself from using as tube rad on the front?

Any push/pull builds with these cases are greatly appreciated for reference!


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zaxbys*
> 
> I am about to start a large build using the Pro-M but I really need some final guidance on the radiator support. I have watched a few videos and looked at some builds others have done in this case and the Evolve ATX. I found I can fit AP-15's on the top of the radiator bracket to allow for push pull. My question is that can I fit an XT45 or another 45mm radiator on the top and the front and not block the cpu water block on the top and prevent myself from using as tube rad on the front?
> 
> Any push/pull builds with these cases are greatly appreciated for reference!


I don't know if you can fit anything on top of the bracket in the Pro M, it isn't as tall as the Evovlv ATX. here are some builds with moderately thick rads though, might help:

https://pcpartpicker.com/b/dKWXsY
https://pcpartpicker.com/b/LMhqqs


----------



## doyll

I see Phanteks has now released
*Phanteks' RGB LED Strip Combo Set, RGB LED Strip 400MM*
and *Extension Cable Combo Set*
lighting.
Info said "Available in June". They don't have much time left.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> I see Phanteks has now released
> *Phanteks' RGB LED Strip Combo Set, RGB LED Strip 400MM*
> and *Extension Cable Combo Set*
> lighting.
> Info said "Available in June". They don't have much time left.


I wonder if there is a cost effective way for them to make these with USB interface and control. It would open up their market quite a bit for these.


----------



## greg1184

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> I see Phanteks has now released
> *Phanteks' RGB LED Strip Combo Set, RGB LED Strip 400MM*
> and *Extension Cable Combo Set*
> lighting.
> Info said "Available in June". They don't have much time left.


Aura compatible as well.


----------



## grizz311

Hey guys, maybe someone can shed some insight. I am running into some issues mounting an EK XRES 140 D5 pump res combo to my Evolv ATX TG. The bracket that came with the pump does not allign anywhere on the case. And the bracket that came with the case, I am not too sure how it even helps mount a vertical pump/res. What I did right now is extended a hole that was in place with my drill and mounted with the EK bracket, but I feel like this is not a permanent solution especially if I decide to upgrade the Reservoir tube size in the future. Any thoughts? All i have is a simple CPU loop and I am having issues figuring out what the best way to mount everything is. I think My 295x2 is part of the problem.


----------



## grizz311

Forgot to mention that I have a single 240 Radiator.


----------



## capitaltpt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> I see Phanteks has now released
> *Phanteks' RGB LED Strip Combo Set, RGB LED Strip 400MM*
> and *Extension Cable Combo Set*
> lighting.
> Info said "Available in June". They don't have much time left.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I wonder if there is a cost effective way for them to make these with USB interface and control. It would open up their market quite a bit for these.
Click to expand...

There is: https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-Motherboard-4-Pin-Header-USBMBADAPT/dp/B000IV6S9S/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1467297134&sr=8-1&keywords=USB+to+4+pin

But I'm guessing the software won't work with this.


----------



## Faster_is_better

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *grizz311*
> 
> Hey guys, maybe someone can shed some insight. I am running into some issues mounting an EK XRES 140 D5 pump res combo to my Evolv ATX TG. The bracket that came with the pump does not allign anywhere on the case. And the bracket that came with the case, I am not too sure how it even helps mount a vertical pump/res. What I did right now is extended a hole that was in place with my drill and mounted with the EK bracket, but I feel like this is not a permanent solution especially if I decide to upgrade the Reservoir tube size in the future. Any thoughts? All i have is a simple CPU loop and I am having issues figuring out what the best way to mount everything is. I think My 295x2 is part of the problem.


At least in the Primo that bracket is only for a floor mounted pump. I had to drill holes in that bracket for my MCP50x though, so I'm not sure what it fits exactly...

Look for some holes in the bottom of case that line up with it, if you still care (probably not going to use it now).


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *grizz311*
> 
> Hey guys, maybe someone can shed some insight. I am running into some issues mounting an EK XRES 140 D5 pump res combo to my Evolv ATX TG. The bracket that came with the pump does not allign anywhere on the case. And the bracket that came with the case, I am not too sure how it even helps mount a vertical pump/res. What I did right now is extended a hole that was in place with my drill and mounted with the EK bracket, but I feel like this is not a permanent solution especially if I decide to upgrade the Reservoir tube size in the future. Any thoughts? All i have is a simple CPU loop and I am having issues figuring out what the best way to mount everything is. I think My 295x2 is part of the problem.


I am going to use the same pump/res in a Primo build. Keep following this thread to see what I figure out


----------



## grizz311

I don't mind drilling extra holes in the case, its not a big deal for me, but it seems the newer EK xres 140 Revo with the fan bracket was more suited for this case. I don't really want to open up the bottom panel to remove the hard drives, because I don't have anywhere else to put them.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *grizz311*
> 
> I don't mind drilling extra holes in the case, its not a big deal for me, but it seems the newer EK xres 140 Revo with the fan bracket was more suited for this case. I don't really want to open up the bottom panel to remove the hard drives, because I don't have anywhere else to put them.


The EK Uni Pump Bracket 120mm fan may give you some more flexibility. It can actually be mounted to the 120mm fan slots at the front of the case and will offset it to a position similar to where it is now -
https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-uni-pump-bracket-120mm-fan


----------



## Ubbidude

Just traded in my luxe for this puppy,



This is not the final build, and does anyone have a clue how the rgb controller works? the light keeps fading in and out.


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *grizz311*
> 
> I don't mind drilling extra holes in the case, its not a big deal for me, but it seems the newer EK xres 140 Revo with the fan bracket was more suited for this case. I don't really want to open up the bottom panel to remove the hard drives, because I don't have anywhere else to put them.


Looks like you have plenty of room to mount that pump to the psu cover. Or is that not an option?
Sorry If I can't see it properly on the pictures.... kind of dark there.









*p.s.
*Already had contact with Phanteks about my case....

Yesterday I had some time to unpack the Primo and have a look at it.
Found this on the front panel.









A bit hard to see with the potato pictures. But it is a pretty noticeable (and feel-able) dent.


PSU rubber missing.









And also some skimped paint on the left panel (probably due to the hit to the front panel?



Can other Primo users here clarify if the right side panel fits nicely against the lower part of the case?
Looks like my right panel is also slightly bend, at the front it aligns perfectly but towards the rear there is a slight gap between the panel and the case itself.

Phanteks asked for more pictures and a copy of my invoice so they can sort things out for me.
Good support.... had a reply within 2 hours.


----------



## grizz311

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> Looks like you have plenty of room to mount that pump to the psu cover. Or is that not an option?
> Sorry If I can't see it properly on the pictures.... kind of dark there.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *p.s.
> *Already had contact with Phanteks about my case....
> 
> Yesterday I had some time to unpack the Primo and have a look at it.
> Found this on the front panel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A bit hard to see with the potato pictures. But it is a pretty noticeable (and feel-able) dent.
> 
> 
> PSU rubber missing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And also some skimped paint on the left panel (probably due to the hit to the front panel?
> 
> 
> 
> Can other Primo users here clarify if the right side panel fits nicely against the lower part of the case?
> Looks like my right panel is also slightly bend, at the front it aligns perfectly but towards the rear there is a slight gap between the panel and the case itself.
> 
> Phanteks asked for more pictures and a copy of my invoice so they can sort things out for me.
> Good support.... had a reply within 2 hours.


I will show you the mount in a couple hours when I get from home with better pictures. I bought the silver Tempered Glass case, but kind of wish I got the Gray one instead.


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ubbidude*
> 
> Just traded in my luxe for this puppy,
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is not the final build, and does anyone have a clue how the rgb controller works? the light keeps fading in and out.


Traitor!
I'm secretly considering doing the same thing.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PureBlackFire*
> 
> Traitor!
> I'm secretly considering doing the same thing.


Do it.....all the cool kids are leaving their Luxes for Evolv ATX......









And I'm not just saying that because I did it......


----------



## greg1184

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Do it.....all the cool kids are leaving their Luxes for Evolv ATX......
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And I'm not just saying that because I did it......


If the motherboard area was 8mm longer I wouldn't even hesitate from downsizing from my primo to the evolve. It's a gorgeous case.


----------



## Ubbidude

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PureBlackFire*
> 
> Traitor!
> I'm secretly considering doing the same thing.


i still have it in my possesion tho xD


----------



## grizz311




----------



## grizz311




----------



## Testing12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *greg1184*
> 
> If the motherboard area was 8mm longer I wouldn't even hesitate from downsizing from my primo to the evolve. It's a gorgeous case.


I too wish they had made it 8mm longer...


----------



## Sazexa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Testing12*
> 
> I too wish they had made it 8mm longer...


Quoting this as it's related to my previous post and this one.

I had ordered the ASUS Rampage V Edition 10 motherboard, and the Phanteks Evolv ATX TG case.

As we know, the Evolv ATX cases only "support" 264mm wide motherboards. The motherboard I ordered is 272mm wide, so, again, wishing the case had an extra 8mm of clearance.

Now, today, I tried installing the motherboard into the case. As it is now, it definitely won't fit. BUT, if I take off the backplate (and LED lighting/controller) of the RVE10 motherboard, it then fits. It covers approximately half of the grommet, and does bottom out to the grommet. But, if the grommets are true rubber they shouldn't really conduct. I'm considering putting a layer of electrical tape along the back of the board just to prevent it from causing any damage. I don't have pictures yet, but, from my experience 272mm wide motherboards will work with the case. With a big of thinking/working.

I'll post more pictures later.

I'm also considering leaving the backplate and LED's/controller on the back of the board, and getting taller motherboard standoffs. If I were to change ut the middle colum of standoffs to be about 2-4mm taller, and then the third row of standoffs to be 5-7mm taller, it would likely allow me to catch enough threads (at the very least, but most likely actually catch fully into the standoff). The only thing holding me back from this method is radiator compatibility, since I'll be installing a top mounted radiator, and it might case clearance issues. Also, it makes mounting into PCI brackets a bit more difficult with the motherboard being offset so. More to come soon,


----------



## Testing12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sazexa*
> 
> I tried installing the motherboard into the case. As it is now, it definitely won't fit.


This is really sad news for me. I had been looking forward to a positive report from you.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sazexa*
> 
> BUT, if I take off the backplate (and LED lighting/controller) of the RVE10 motherboard, it then fits. It covers approximately half of the grommet, and does bottom out to the grommet. But, if the grommets are true rubber they shouldn't really conduct. I'm considering putting a layer of electrical tape along the back of the board just to prevent it from causing any damage. I don't have pictures yet, but, from my experience 272mm wide motherboards will work with the case. With a big of thinking/working.


I definitely do *not* want to have to take off the backplate and LED lighting/controller, which I have paid good $ for.
What if the rubber grommets are removed? Would that help at all?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sazexa*
> 
> I'm also considering leaving the backplate and LED's/controller on the back of the board, and getting taller motherboard standoffs. If I were to change ut the middle colum of standoffs to be about 2-4mm taller, and then the third row of standoffs to be 5-7mm taller, it would likely allow me to catch enough threads (at the very least, but most likely actually catch fully into the standoff). The only thing holding me back from this method is radiator compatibility, since I'll be installing a top mounted radiator, and it might case clearance issues. Also, it makes mounting into PCI brackets a bit more difficult with the motherboard being offset so. More to come soon,


I had thought about using longer standoffs, but wondered how the motherboard i/o shield would fit into and with the case. It seems like it would be set at an angle. Not sure if it would be enough to notice or make any difference.

Does your experience line up with and look like the pics I posted in message: http://www.overclock.net/t/1418637/official-case-phanteks-case-club-for-lovers-owners/13870#post_25286174 ?
The builder said he didn't screw down the motherboard until he had put the 24pin through the grommet hole. It looks like a very tight fit, with 1/2 of the grommets covered by the motherboard, but he said it's working for him, so...

I am hoping you can report a similar positive report as you move forward!


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Do it.....all the cool kids are leaving their Luxes for Evolv ATX......
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And I'm not just saying that because I did it......


Kids go Evolv. Real men go Primo.

No seriously, the Evolv looks very nice but I need somewhere to stash my 360 and 420 rads. Evolv ain't gonna cut it.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> Kids go Evolv. Real men go Primo.
> 
> No seriously, the Evolv looks very nice but I need somewhere to stash my 360 and 420 rads. Evolv ain't gonna cut it.


I started off in the Primo with a 420mm UT60 and RX360, and kept downsizing as Phanteks released cases, while downsizing the loop accordingly. Running far more rad than I needed was fun for a bit, but just too much work to do maintenance on. My last reconfiguration was to keep the loop as simple and clean as possible, while still maintaining cooling capabilities. With just a 4790K and 780 (will be a 1070 when they become more readily available) in the loop, a single 360GTS does everything I need - I had another 240 in but took it out and saw basically no rise in temps.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PureBlackFire*
> 
> Traitor!
> I'm secretly considering doing the same thing.


What ciarlatano said. I too started with Primo .. still have it but it's not in use now. While it's a fantastic case it is just too big for my needs. I changed from Primo to Enthoo Luxe and love it. I'm not giving up my Enthoo Luxe, but added an Enthoo ATX to computer 'stable'.


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> I started off in the Primo with a 420mm UT60 and RX360, and kept downsizing as Phanteks released cases, while downsizing the loop accordingly. Running far more rad than I needed was fun for a bit, but just too much work to do maintenance on. My last reconfiguration was to keep the loop as simple and clean as possible, while still maintaining cooling capabilities. With just a 4790K and 780 (will be a 1070 when they become more readily available) in the loop, a single 360GTS does everything I need - I had another 240 in but took it out and saw basically no rise in temps.


Depends on what you want I guess. I want my loop quiet. I struggle to keep at 10c delta with my fx 8320 and a single r9 290 cooled by one 360 UT60.

I prefer <1000 rpm fans


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> Kids go Evolv. Real men go Primo.
> 
> No seriously, the Evolv looks very nice but I need somewhere to stash my 360 and 420 rads. Evolv ain't gonna cut it.


You got that backwards mate. Kids go Primo, than grow up and realize they don't have room for this giant and learn how to get all the cooling they need from a smaller case and go Evolv.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> Depends on what you want I guess. I want my loop quiet. I struggle to keep at 10c delta with my fx 8320 and a single r9 290 cooled by one 360 UT60.
> 
> I prefer <1000 rpm fans


Actually........reducing noise was another big factor in my decision. The UT60s (really just about all 60mm rads) really need push/pull at low fan speeds to operate efficiently, and that is not the case with the GTS. The Evolve is also a much quieter case in general by design, and the top rad is much more muted than in the open top of the Primo. So, I went from six 120mm plus seven 140mm fans to only three 120mm plus three 140mm. Using the PWM hub (so badly named.....) My fans sit at ~650rpm at idle and lower loads, and top out ~1050rpm at absolute highest. This is *much* quieter than I could achieve in the Primo, and I even tried things like having the pull fans off below 50C cores, using the 360 passively below 50C, etc. End of the day, I gave up about 5C running P95 (about 2C in real world use), and got smaller, quieter, simpler and much easier to maintain with a much cleaner install.

So, as you say, really all about what you want. I'm just not sure I can agree with your assumptions about noise and cooling since a little setup time produced something drastically different.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> You got that backwards mate. Kids go Primo, than grow up and realize they don't have room for this giant and learn how to get all the cooling they need from a smaller case and go Evolv.


LOL.....I wasn't going to say it......

But, really, the Primo is a great place to experiment and find out what works for you. Lots of room to experiment and very user friendly. It was a huge help to me in evaluating WaCo components.


----------



## grizz311

Doy ou guys know if its possible to turn off the Phanteks LED strip while its connected? I installed it last night the new 2M version with the magnets, this thing is awesome! But I would like the option to turn it off from outside the case.


----------



## dlewbell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *grizz311*
> 
> Doy ou guys know if its possible to turn off the Phanteks LED strip while its connected? I installed it last night the new 2M version with the magnets, this thing is awesome! But I would like the option to turn it off from outside the case.


Try holding the case button that normally changes the colors. To turn it back on, you'll need to hold the button again.


----------



## grizz311

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dlewbell*
> 
> Try holding the case button that normally changes the colors. To turn it back on, you'll need to hold the button again.


Thank you!


----------



## Avant Garde

I was considering throwing and extra fans for this case (Evolv ATX TG) and replace the stock ones with :

Front intake : 2x Fractal Design Venturi HP-14 PWM or NF-14 (they are even more quiet)
Back exhaust : 1x BeQuiet Silent Wings 2 140mm

That way I will have super quiet and good airflow system.

And as for airflow, hmmmm I will have to experiment a little bit.

Option 1) 2x 140mm's as front intake and 1x 140mm as back intake as well + AIO/CLC two 140mm's as exhaust in push config

Option 2) 2x 140mm's as front intake and 1x 140mm as back exhaust + AIO/CLC's two 140mm as exhaust in push config

All that with that modded part on top of the case (sealed part) and hopefully without air pockets...

What do you think guys?


----------



## thekingbeyond

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *grizz311*
> 
> Doy ou guys know if its possible to turn off the Phanteks LED strip while its connected? I installed it last night the new 2M version with the magnets, this thing is awesome! But I would like the option to turn it off from outside the case.


Do you know the part number for the led strip with magnets, does it differ from the original with tape?


----------



## mat311

Just ordered a Pro M Acrylic (2 fans included), I will add 2 bitfenix spectres (white leds) at the top (exhaust), can't wait =)
(I own a FT05 atm but it's too small for me, and I have no window)


----------



## grizz311

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thekingbeyond*
> 
> Do you know the part number for the led strip with magnets, does it differ from the original with tape?


I am not sure of the part number but I believe newegg and amazon are no longer selling the old version that had the sticky tape. I had to wait 3 weeks for the order to come through on amazon because I think they were redoing the whole stock for the new version. As soon as mine shipped from amazon, it went back in stock on newegg. So you are safe to buy from both these vendors. Its a great strip though.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Avant Garde*
> 
> I was considering throwing and extra fans for this case (Evolv ATX TG) and replace the stock ones with :
> 
> Front intake : 2x Fractal Design Venturi HP-14 PWM or NF-14 (they are even more quiet)
> Back exhaust : 1x BeQuiet Silent Wings 2 140mm
> 
> That way I will have super quiet and good airflow system.
> 
> And as for airflow, hmmmm I will have to experiment a little bit.
> 
> Option 1) 2x 140mm's as front intake and 1x 140mm as back intake as well + AIO/CLC two 140mm's as exhaust in push config
> 
> Option 2) 2x 140mm's as front intake and 1x 140mm as back exhaust + AIO/CLC's two 140mm as exhaust in push config
> 
> All that with that modded part on top of the case (sealed part) and hopefully without air pockets...
> 
> What do you think guys?


You are grossly underestimating the F140SP fans that are included with the case. They are quite, move good amounts of air, work well with the resistant intake and have very low start up speeds. The only thing you would "gain" from your plan would be a lower balance in your bank account.


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Avant Garde*
> 
> I was considering throwing and extra fans for this case (Evolv ATX TG) and replace the stock ones with :
> 
> Front intake : 2x Fractal Design Venturi HP-14 PWM or NF-14 (they are even more quiet)
> Back exhaust : 1x BeQuiet Silent Wings 2 140mm
> 
> That way I will have super quiet and good airflow system.
> 
> And as for airflow, hmmmm I will have to experiment a little bit.
> 
> Option 1) 2x 140mm's as front intake and 1x 140mm as back intake as well + AIO/CLC two 140mm's as exhaust in push config
> 
> Option 2) 2x 140mm's as front intake and 1x 140mm as back exhaust + AIO/CLC's two 140mm as exhaust in push config
> 
> All that with that modded part on top of the case (sealed part) and hopefully without air pockets...
> 
> What do you think guys?


those would all be a waste of money. for performance the Noctua A14 and NF-14 have the exact same airflow as the included Phanteks 140SP fans. the Fractal Venturi is a bit lower and the Be Quiet moves way less air than the others so a big downgrade. the Venturi and the NF-14's have a small to moderate advantage in static pressure, but I've no idea if or what that will translate as far as any potential gains, likely nothing.


----------



## Sazexa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Testing12*
> 
> This is really sad news for me. I had been looking forward to a positive report from you.
> I definitely do *not* want to have to take off the backplate and LED lighting/controller, which I have paid good $ for.
> 
> What if the rubber grommets are removed? Would that help at all?
> 
> I had thought about using longer standoffs, but wondered how the motherboard i/o shield would fit into and with the case. It seems like it would be set at an angle. Not sure if it would be enough to notice or make any difference.
> 
> Does your experience line up with and look like the pics I posted in message: http://www.overclock.net/t/1418637/official-case-phanteks-case-club-for-lovers-owners/13870#post_25286174 ?
> The builder said he didn't screw down the motherboard until he had put the 24pin through the grommet hole. It looks like a very tight fit, with 1/2 of the grommets covered by the motherboard, but he said it's working for him, so...
> 
> I am hoping you can report a similar positive report as you move forward!


I haven't uploaded pictures yet, as I've only taken them with my phone (which has a partially broken camera lol)... But here's another update for you.

If you remove the backplate and LED's, it fits similarly to that RVE board from another user. I wasn't sure if my board was contacting the case with the last few solder pins on the board, so, as an extra precaution step, I added a strip of electrical tape going vertically along the edge of the motherboard that is close to that angled portion. I did it nice, and evenly, to avoid any showing from the other side of the case. There is some bending/flexing on the motherboard, but it doesn't seem too hard. If I remember correctly, the bottom right corner of an ROG P67 board I used in a Corsair 550D actually had worse bending, and I didn't insulate the board either, and it was fine. So, this combined will likely be fine. And while I did lose the side LED's, all other LED's on the board are working.

Removing the rubber grommets might help, but I don't think significantly. If anything, they're probably more useful as they add a bit of "push"/cushion off the metal frame of the case, and provided they are rubber or some kind of poly rubber composite, they should insulate any voltage the board carries through the pins on that side. For most cables, the roughly 1/2-3/4" space of useable grommet area should be enough for most cables to go through, but I'd say it's a fair bet the board needs to be removed, or loosened from standoffs, for the 24-pin cable.

I didn't check rear I/O shield alignment, as using longer standoffs on one side just seemed like a back idea. That idea felt like more flex over all on the board and probably more prone to damaging it. I don't think it would mis-align the rear I/O if you stepped out the stand offs. As in the first three on the left side were the regular height, the middle three were taller, and the right three were tallest. But, again, you're bending the board a lot more that way. Right now I'd estimate there is maybe 2-3mm most (maybe 1/8-3/16 inch?) of flex or push on the right side of my board. I've seen GPU's bend worse from sag. But if you step out the standoffs, and keep the backplate, you're looking at a solid 8-10mm maybe of bend. But it might not be as bad.

As I stated above, the board lined up basically exactly like that other user's did, just with the backplate taken off. And yeah, definitely somewhere around 1/2-3/4" of useable grommet space left.

I'll have pictures soon. Maybe I'll edit this post or just place them underneath it. As always, hoping this helps. I'm considering downgrading/downsizing to the STRIX X99, but, it's just not as cool









EDIT: I also found a way to keep the one 3.5" drive I need! There is one of their modular SSD/HDD mounts in the case basement. They make an adapter for 3.5" drives to utilize that space. So, I'll get to use a front 360mm radiator, and have my 3.5" drive still. Very excited. What WAS a little disappointing is one of my 2.5" SSD brackets came bent and with chipped paint.


----------



## Chopper1591

Found some time today to inspect the Primo, make measures and decide what I want to do...

My idea was to mount the d5 x-res on the bottom of the case next to the 420 radiator. After measuring it seems like it should fit.

Obviously had to remove the dual 140mm bracket and the bottom hdd cage:

Then I took measurements. Placed the measuring tape ~1mm away from the front fan.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!






Then looked where 40.5cm was (the length of my UT60.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!






Placed a small Allen key there.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!






Placed the pump bracket on the two m3(?) holes that are in line, see above picture.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!






As you can see it should fit. Will have to see when I actually place the radiator when I have all the parts I need for the loop.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







If this doesn't work. I also measured the room from my gpu to the reservoir bracket. Should even fit there.
Card is 26.6cm in length (from the pci cover to the edge of the pcb/block.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!






~34cm to the 5.25" bays. This makes 7.4cm room to place my pump/res.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







Res tube is around 6.3cm in diameter. Pump top is 8cm but I can place the top below the gpu easily. So I should be good either way.
My idea is that the first option is best as the reservoir bracket looks to be worse in dampening the pump vibrations. Placing the pump at the bottom of the case also makes tubing routing shorter.

What do you guys think?


----------



## FullForceUF

Does anyone have any damage to the side panels on their black Enthoo Primo (and SE)?

I ordered two cases and both of them had the same "damage". I emailed Phantek about it but they just said they would pass it along. So, I returned the cases and waiting for a Evolv ATV TG. Really wanted the bigger case. One of the Primo SEs was unusually dirty as well. It looked like someone set the PCI plates in media blast before installing them.

Anyways, the "damage" is on the top and bottom of each side panel. It's really only visible in certain lighting but it's a cloudy haze. It looks like it's from the foam padding. I wish I could of kept it but unfortunately for me my system sits in front of a window and it made it way too noticeable.


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FullForceUF*
> 
> Does anyone have any damage to the side panels on their black Enthoo Primo (and SE)?
> 
> I ordered two cases and both of them had the same "damage". I emailed Phantek about it but they just said they would pass it along. So, I returned the cases and waiting for a Evolv ATV TG. Really wanted the bigger case. One of the Primo SEs was unusually dirty as well. It looked like someone set the PCI plates in media blast before installing them.
> 
> Anyways, the "damage" is on the top and bottom of each side panel. It's really only visible in certain lighting but it's a cloudy haze. It looks like it's from the foam padding. I wish I could of kept it but unfortunately for me my system sits in front of a window and it made it way too noticeable.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Mine has similar "scratches" like your first picture but way less. Only if I hold it in direct light and look closely I see it. Yours is like 10 times worse.

I posted earlier though that I had damage to the front panel:


Already had contact with Phanteks and they will send me a new part.


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> Found some time today to inspect the Primo, make measures and decide what I want to do...
> 
> My idea was to mount the d5 x-res on the bottom of the case next to the 420 radiator. After measuring it seems like it should fit.
> 
> Obviously had to remove the dual 140mm bracket and the bottom hdd cage:
> 
> Then I took measurements. Placed the measuring tape ~1mm away from the front fan.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then looked where 40.5cm was (the length of my UT60.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Placed a small Allen key there.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Placed the pump bracket on the two m3(?) holes that are in line, see above picture.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you can see it should fit. Will have to see when I actually place the radiator when I have all the parts I need for the loop.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If this doesn't work. I also measured the room from my gpu to the reservoir bracket. Should even fit there.
> Card is 26.6cm in length (from the pci cover to the edge of the pcb/block.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~34cm to the 5.25" bays. This makes 7.4cm room to place my pump/res.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Res tube is around 6.3cm in diameter. Pump top is 8cm but I can place the top below the gpu easily. So I should be good either way.
> My idea is that the first option is best as the reservoir bracket looks to be worse in dampening the pump vibrations. Placing the pump at the bottom of the case also makes tubing routing shorter.
> 
> What do you guys think?


How exactly are you going to attach the X-Res to the phantek pump bracket? The pump is longer than the rubber standoffs and the screw spacing doesn't match. I learned that the hard way









Also are you saying you are going to have a 420mm rad at the bottom of the case? The bottom of the case can only do a 280 rad if you are going by 140 standards. It hits that panel that covers the bays and has the phanteks logo on it. Some 360mm rads don't even fit because it is such a tight fit. Might have misunderstood you though.


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> How exactly are you going to attach the X-Res to the phantek pump bracket? The pump is longer than the rubber standoffs and the screw spacing doesn't match. I learned that the hard way
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also are you saying you are going to have a 420mm rad at the bottom of the case? The bottom of the case can only do a 280 rad if you are going by 140 standards. It hits that panel that covers the bays and has the phanteks logo on it. Some 360mm rads don't even fit because it is such a tight fit. Might have misunderstood you though.


You will see when I have my parts.

The 420 is in the top. 360 will get in the bottom.


----------



## dmfree88

Ugh anyone else have vibration issues with the Pro-M? I hear basically everything my ears are super sensitive to fan noise and vibrations. I already fixed the small vibration noise coming from the upper fan mounting and the acrylic panel but pinpointing this front end vibration is becoming irritating as I have already tried padding a few different places. It is weird because it is not constant and usually gets louder and faster vibration before it goes silent for a few seconds then comes back slowly. I am going to try to see if it is where the DVD drive contacts the front panel next but hoping maybe someone has already gone through this and know where to put padding?

I dont suspect this is a problem for everyone it is probably due to me mounting a fan next to the GPU poorly and increasing vibrations. The fan is also running 100% always because its hooked up to the power fan slot on my motherboard which has no fan control. Just wondering if anyone else has encountered vibration issues with the front panel? Sounds like a group of flies rattling around inside the DVD drive







.


----------



## dmfree88

Apparently it was the actual DVD drive itself. Maybe if I pull out the cage I can mount the drive on both sides but with the cage mounted you can only put screws on one side of the DVD drive. Even with all 4 screws in place on one side the drive still wobbles and apparently makes an annoying vibration. I am too lazy to pull the drive cage to try to fix it so I just shoved in a piece of foam and I am back to silence again







.

EDIT/UPDATE:

5 minutes later the noise started again. It actually continued while the front panel was removed for once so I got to find where it was actually coming from. Turns out the HDD mounting is what was making the noise which was also rattling the poorly mounted DVD drive. I jammed some foam in there and now, I hope, I finally got this thing quiet. foam and electrical tape everywhere but eventually the sweet sound of silence (with minimal fan noise)







.

Post thought:

Anyone have any paint brand/type suggestions for painting the interior of a case? Want it to look like the metallic blue on the Extreme4 heatsinks. Think I may paint a few fan shrouds as well.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

So I ordered White P400 Silent Window which costed me zero, nada. I like free stuff.
This will replace my NZXT S340, which is a good case.
Hopefully soon I will get it, stock is gone and sells out before I can get my hands on it.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> So I ordered White P400 Silent Window which costed me zero, nada. I like free stuff.
> This will replace my NZXT S340, which is a good case.
> Hopefully soon I will get it, stock is gone and sells out before I can get my hands on it.


Interested to hear your thoughts on it. I haven't had the chance to use the P400 yet.


----------



## orbitalwalsh

P400 is complete! Love the case , although some strong fans are needed in the front. a good 5c cooler without the panel on for GPU temps using Wingboost 2 fans...


----------



## orbitalwalsh

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Interested to hear your thoughts on it. I haven't had the chance to use the P400 yet.


having built identical systems in both the S340 and P400. i prefer the P400 hands down. man reason being the 2x 140mm top fans and more room to work with water gear at the front. Darkened window is a bit of a pain though so needs to be lit up


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *orbitalwalsh*
> 
> having built identical systems in both the S340 and P400. i prefer the P400 hands down. man reason being the 2x 140mm top fans and more room to work with water gear at the front. Darkened window is a bit of a pain though so needs to be lit up


Thanks. It's really the build quality and limitations that I am curious about in comparison to the other Phanteks cases. The Pro M was built and designed like a far more expensive case than it was. The P400 has far more limitations, and I really saw it as an odd release. I would assume it was done as the Pro M was underpriced.


----------



## pstN

Can anyone confirm the Luxe led strip is now also compatible with the Evolv? and how do we change the color ?


----------



## orbitalwalsh

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Thanks. It's really the build quality and limitations that I am curious about in comparison to the other Phanteks cases. The Pro M was built and designed like a far more expensive case than it was. The P400 has far more limitations, and I really saw it as an odd release. I would assume it was done as the Pro M was underpriced.


I would of gone for the M but was slightly bigger, wanted the smallest I could work with. Would of had more room to play with water wise i think in the M


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pstN*
> 
> Can anyone confirm the Luxe led strip is now also compatible with the Evolv? and how do we change the color ?


It is compatible with the Evolv ATX Tempered Glass Edition, not earlier Evolv models.


----------



## Qgon

Hi guys!

I'm ordering my Luxe this week and I was thinking again about fan setup. I came up with 3 possibilitys:

1. 2 x 140mm Phanteks INTAKE (the ones come with the case) | 1x Rear NF-a14 EXHAUST | 1x Top near rear NF-A14 EXHAUST | Corsair H110i GTX Top EXHAUST with silent wings 2 on it.
2. The same setup just with 1 more NF-A14 bottom as INTAKE
3. 2 x 140mm Phanteks INTAKE | 1x Rear NF-a14 EXHAUST | Corsair H110i GTX Top EXHAUST with silent wings 2 on it.

I would run all fans at 900-1000 rpm controlled by the HUB. And with option 1 and 3 I would let the PSU cover on. In every szenario I will remove the HDD cages cuz I only got SSD

Which of those 3 would you think give me the best cooling performance?

My System:

- i7-5820k w/ AiO Corsair h110i GTX top exhaust
- GTX 980Ti Super Jetstream
- 16GB Corsair RAM
- 1000w Corsair PSU
- 1x 500gb SSD (4TB on external HD)

Thanks
Qgon


----------



## Qgon

sorry double post...


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qgon*
> 
> Hi guys!
> 
> I'm ordering my Luxe this week and I was thinking again about fan setup. I came up with 3 possibilitys:
> 
> 1. 2 x 140mm Phanteks INTAKE (the ones come with the case) | 1x Rear NF-a14 EXHAUST | 1x Top near rear NF-A14 EXHAUST | Corsair H110i GTX Top EXHAUST with silent wings 2 on it.
> 2. The same setup just with 1 more NF-A14 bottom as INTAKE
> 3. 2 x 140mm Phanteks INTAKE | 1x Rear NF-a14 EXHAUST | Corsair H110i GTX Top EXHAUST with silent wings 2 on it.
> 
> I would run all fans at 900-1000 rpm controlled by the HUB. And with option 1 and 3 I would let the PSU cover on. In every szenario I will remove the HDD cages cuz I only got SSD
> 
> Which of those 3 would you think give me the best cooling performance?
> 
> My System:
> 
> - i7-5820k w/ AiO Corsair h110i GTX top exhaust
> - GTX 980Ti Super Jetstream
> - 16GB Corsair RAM
> - 1000w Corsair PSU
> - 1x 500gb SSD (4TB on external HD)
> 
> Thanks
> Qgon


Making it too complicated. Stick with only the Silent Wings fan.
As for top just the H110 is enough. No bottom intake.

Is the Luxe only one you can get?


----------



## Qgon

Quote:


> Making it too complicated. Stick with only the Silent Wings fan.
> As for top just the H110 is enough. No bottom intake.
> 
> Is the Luxe only one you can get?


I already got those fans from my previous system :/ and I dont wanna buy new ones !

so you think option 3 is best? and which other case should i get? I was thinking between the luxe and the Evolv atx. But I'm afraid the ATX will get too hot when I put the H110i as exhaust on top...


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qgon*
> 
> I already got those fans from my previous system :/ and I dont wanna buy new ones !
> 
> so you think option 3 is best? and which other case should i get? I was thinking between the luxe and the Evolv atx. But I'm afraid the ATX will get too hot when I put the H110i as exhaust on top...


While H110i is a noisy piece of garbage (sorry, but that's what I know to be true) it will for in top of Evolv ATX as long as you block all holes in the radiator mount tray not covered by radiator. But if you do not already have the H110i, don't waste money on it. Spend a little more and get something like Swiftech H240 X2 .. a quality built pre-filled kit that flows many many times more coolant, has a much much better all copper radiator, and if you want to expand it to include a GPU water block and another radiator later on you can. All of this and in a package that if something goes wrong you can take it apart and fix or replace parts as needed instead of throwing the whole cheap CLC away and having to replace the whole system.


----------



## pstN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> It is compatible with the Evolv ATX Tempered Glass Edition, not earlier Evolv models.


OK thanks, that's the one I have. and is the starter / combo kit necessary?


----------



## Rainmaker91

Finally go the thing somewhere close to finished:

Currently leaktesting, but it looks promising


----------



## 19DELTASNAFU

OK, long time overdue but a new doctor has given me a little longer lease on life. I've made progress and hit some potholes. Hoping you guys can help us out and give some opinions also. I plan on filling the system through the ports on the top 360 radiator or depending on the layout maybe through the second reservoir.... or the Monsoon...... I think it can be done depending on the final layout. The monsoon is going to have to be mounted horizontal with the entry being on the lowest hole on the side without the side entry ports and the exit will have to be one of the side entry ports due to it being the highest point so the res will stay full. It's really more for looks and to cover up the sound cards on the motherboard. Here is a parts list.
EK 360 PE up top
EK ram block for 4 dimms
EK copper/plexi block w/led
Hardware Labs Nemesis in thee front.
EK vardars in push
Primochill 10/13 petg and black fittings/some fittings like drain etc were other makes
MSI Z170 M7
6700k
Gigabyte 980ti Xtreme
Corsair 1200 watt
Phanteks Luxe
Bill Owen MNPC Tech plexi front panel
1/2 inch plexi screwed and glued on rear where HD rack was removed to fill the hole and provide plenty of rigidity to the frame. She's solid.
2 meter Phanteks LED
Georgia Bulldog Theme

Fill Ports:
http://s117.photobucket.com/user/looker12/media/IMG_0645_zps5yugd3ha.jpg.html

Mock up using two reservoirs:
http://s117.photobucket.com/user/looker12/media/IMG_0644_zpsm7y2hh6t.jpg.html

360 rad w/vardars and LED strip:
http://s117.photobucket.com/user/looker12/media/IMG_0643_zpsuejc1cin.jpg.html

The monsoon in this pic will have to be reversed so the side inlets can be pointing up so it will completely fill with coolant. It will be bolted to the PSU cover....... all depending on suggestions and implementation:
http://s117.photobucket.com/user/looker12/media/IMG_0642_zpsr9ybesxt.jpg.html

EK 3.2 PWM and drain. Everything plugged off to prevent foreign object entry.
http://s117.photobucket.com/user/looker12/media/IMG_0641_zpsys6xwlse.jpg.html

Coolant return and drain setup mounted on EK vardar 120 to keep pump cool, I heard these run hot:
http://s117.photobucket.com/user/looker12/media/IMG_0640_zpsz4hqawbx.jpg.html

I will have to reverse the monsoon so the exit port will be higher than the tube to keep it full depending on suggestions:
http://s117.photobucket.com/user/looker12/media/IMG_0639_zpspvjlhksm.jpg.html

Plan on using the lowest hole on this end of the monsoon as coolant entry:
http://s117.photobucket.com/user/looker12/media/IMG_0638_zpsgowp3e1e.jpg.html

One of the two side ports which will be oriented up will be the exit of the Monsoon........... I guess in this config I would have to use a second res?
http://s117.photobucket.com/user/looker12/media/IMG_0637_zpsl4fq9dmd.jpg.html

Suggestions on layout, flow etc, etc. Hesitant at this point, I've got a bunch of ideas like splitting the returns??? Do I need to run dual pumps? Since I delayed 7 months because of my health and basically lost a whole gen should I upgrade to 1070, 2011 v3 or am I good. Occasionally play battlefield 4 but I'm not very good at it. Usually get my arse handed to me by some kid with a PS3. hehe Thanks to anybody who will share knowledge/preferences about anything or aspect of the build. Also, plan on water and the chemicals from ek for a month or two keeping an eye of the filter on the return then breaking it down and checking the block for debris, cleaning, removing the filter and then filling with blood red and pushing the clocks. I need to post a picture of the fan controller and get your guys input on the connections/splitters/etc. I'm running the pump off the CPU2 pwm and running the controller off the cpu1 header.


----------



## Rainmaker91

So I got my computer up and running, and everything seems to be working fine in my Enthoo Primo. Except for maybe the most crucial piece in the build, which is the Phanteks fan hub. I know for a fact that I followed the instructions to the dot, and I'm only using 3 pin fans . Yet for some reason none of them are running, doesn't matter if I run them via the PWM cable to my motherboard or directly to my PSU with a molex, they are just not running.

I know a lot of people have had issues with this thing, so while I tried to do a search in this thread about that I simply don't want to read though 60 pages of irrelevant data just to come up with nothing in the end. So in that regard, does anyone have any pointers in how I should use this thing and as to why it may not be working?


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> So I got my computer up and running, and everything seems to be working fine in my Enthoo Primo. Except for maybe the most crucial piece in the build, which is the Phanteks fan hub. I know for a fact that I followed the instructions to the dot, and I'm only using 3 pin fans . Yet for some reason none of them are running, doesn't matter if I run them via the PWM cable to my motherboard or directly to my PSU with a molex, they are just not running.
> 
> I know a lot of people have had issues with this thing, so while I tried to do a search in this thread about that I simply don't want to read though 60 pages of irrelevant data just to come up with nothing in the end. So in that regard, does anyone have any pointers in how I should use this thing and as to why it may not be working?


Unfortunately, I have not seen this happen at any time except when the hub is dead. Time for an RMA.


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Unfortunately, I have not seen this happen at any time except when the hub is dead. Time for an RMA.


Guess so, I'll just run it all of my fan controller then and ask Phanteks if they would send the part needed or if I need to send the entire case in.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> Guess so, I'll just run it all of my fan controller then and ask Phanteks if they would send the part needed or if I need to send the entire case in.


They exchange just the hub.


----------



## greg1184

My work in progress. I'm currently using a drive bay reservoir. Once I get my 1080 from EVGA step up (shorter card) I'm going to try to put the bracket on to get a tube reservoir and throw some aurora booster to the green.


----------



## pez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmfree88*
> 
> Ugh anyone else have vibration issues with the Pro-M? I hear basically everything my ears are super sensitive to fan noise and vibrations. I already fixed the small vibration noise coming from the upper fan mounting and the acrylic panel but pinpointing this front end vibration is becoming irritating as I have already tried padding a few different places. It is weird because it is not constant and usually gets louder and faster vibration before it goes silent for a few seconds then comes back slowly. I am going to try to see if it is where the DVD drive contacts the front panel next but hoping maybe someone has already gone through this and know where to put padding?
> 
> I dont suspect this is a problem for everyone it is probably due to me mounting a fan next to the GPU poorly and increasing vibrations. The fan is also running 100% always because its hooked up to the power fan slot on my motherboard which has no fan control. Just wondering if anyone else has encountered vibration issues with the front panel? Sounds like a group of flies rattling around inside the DVD drive
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


Bit of a late response from me, but I notice a small vibration some times that I originally suspected to be because of the HDD cage. However, I don't notice it enough or consistently to troubleshoot it. My guess is with it sporadic, it's possible the HDD spinning up and causing some vibration to to spread throughout. Window seems fine, but I definitely am ready for that tempered glass panel.


----------



## michael-ocn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> Guess so, I'll just run it all of my fan controller then and ask Phanteks if they would send the part needed or if I need to send the entire case in.


I had a faulty usb3 port on the front panel on my evolv atx, the blue plastic tongue was cracked and had broken off. I sent phanteks usa a pic of the broken part, they sent me a replacement cable under warranty.


----------



## dmfree88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pez*
> 
> Bit of a late response from me, but I notice a small vibration some times that I originally suspected to be because of the HDD cage. However, I don't notice it enough or consistently to troubleshoot it. My guess is with it sporadic, it's possible the HDD spinning up and causing some vibration to to spread throughout. Window seems fine, but I definitely am ready for that tempered glass panel.


Yeah it was definitely the drive cage. I was able to cram foam wrapped in electrical tape in there between the cage and the HDD it seems to have completely silenced it now for the last couple days I have not heard anything.

I really want to get a tempered glass panel too. I am sad now that I didn't wait to get it. I am currently heavily considering painting the interior of the case and a few fans. I feel disappointed now that I switched to a blue motherboard and also the white fan shrouds really just don't look as good as I had hoped. Original intent was white/black/red after I had swapped red heatsink fans for black and used red in the case. I had also thought you could see the fans through the front of the case or that it would look good with LED but after seeing that the top fan is blocked by front panel wires it just doesn't seem like it would look right.

Anyways my new plan is to match everything to the motherboard. The heatsink will stay red but I will paint the top black so it is barely noticeable and in the future intend to switch to water cooling (which keeps the heatsink looking good black/red for another build and wont effect cooling much if at all painting just the tops). I want to paint the inside of the case metallic blue (hopefully find a paint that matches the color of the Extreme4 heatsinks) as well as the black fans (on the heatsink) shrouds. Replace the Red fans and Red LED fans with Black or blue fans or possibly just hide the red ones in the front temporarily and paint the 2 fans that are included with the case blue (so black shroud with blue fins).

So 2 blue shroud/black fin fans for cooler. 1 blue fin/black shroud fan in back and 1 on top. 1 new LED fan for in front of the GPU and likely hide the red fans up front (never visible where it sits). It will probably take me a week+ of PC downtime but in the end I think it will look pretty sweet. I hope to also add some form of lighting in the front of the case pointing towards the back and maybe in the top of the back pointing down. Overall I think it will be a fairly cheap project and look amazing in the end. Right now it just feels sloppy, didn't even care to cable manage it







.

Final dream build: Copper piped custom loop with metallic blue fittings (justifying this purchase won't be easy







)


----------



## pez

I'll have to take a look at mine, then. The toolless nature of the drives don't help in being able to 'fix' the potential vibration woes, but I may play with it a bit to see what I can come up with. I'll try to see if I can consistently recreate that vibration.

Good news will be that we can purchase the TG panel once they officially release it (whenever that is). The Acrylics panel will be good for moving the case to and from places if needed (as a backup).

But I'll definitely like to see what you decide and your results. I haven't come around to putting my ODD in mine. It was the main reason I went for the Pro M (and that bit of extra airflow), but I haven't had a use for an ODD in a while. That and I've been looking into an external one. Any chance you have pics of your case with the ODD in it? I think if I do mine, I'm going to attempt to do a hidden/false panel type of mod.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> Guess so, I'll just run it all of my fan controller then and ask Phanteks if they would send the part needed or if I need to send the entire case in.


You could use your motherboard fan headers and have automatic control.


----------



## dmfree88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pez*
> 
> Any chance you have pics of your case with the ODD in it?


The last picture in my rig photos shows the interior with the ODD. It sits nearly directly against the top fan. A few mm at most between them. It is actually annoying because it makes an annoying noise everytime my PC starts and it also makes it difficult to remove/insert the top fan cage so I have been considering removing it (I could also add another top intake fan if I did). It looks good from the front though if you were looking for an exterior picture I can take one it is flush with the front and looks decent (plain black cheap asus drive). It definitely does not mount the drive well, even with all 4 screws in it still has a slight wobble (which is why I just shoved in a piece of foam ontop of the drive on the backside). Not sure if you can mount the drive in the cage before putting it in the case but that would certainly be better if you can get screws into the backside. No access to mounting it in from the rear side panel, for whatever reason no holes were drilled for ODD mounting.

Post thought:

You gave me an idea though, I will probably paint the side of the ODD so that it appears blue through the ODD cage


----------



## pez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmfree88*
> 
> The last picture in my rig photos shows the interior with the ODD. It sits nearly directly against the top fan. A few mm at most between them. It is actually annoying because it makes an annoying noise everytime my PC starts and it also makes it difficult to remove/insert the top fan cage so I have been considering removing it (I could also add another top intake fan if I did). It looks good from the front though if you were looking for an exterior picture I can take one it is flush with the front and looks decent (plain black cheap asus drive). It definitely does not mount the drive well, even with all 4 screws in it still has a slight wobble (which is why I just shoved in a piece of foam ontop of the drive on the backside). Not sure if you can mount the drive in the cage before putting it in the case but that would certainly be better if you can get screws into the backside. No access to mounting it in from the rear side panel, for whatever reason no holes were drilled for ODD mounting.
> 
> Post thought:
> 
> You gave me an idea though, I will probably paint the side of the ODD so that it appears blue through the ODD cage


I actually meant from the front so I could see how it looks from the exterior







.


----------



## ZoePancakes

Im looking to buy a eclipse 400 iether normal or silent version for my htpc ^^ not sure wich one to chose tho.

You guys have any tips for me the case will be between a closet and the sofa ^^


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZoePancakes*
> 
> Im looking to buy a eclipse 400 iether normal or silent version for my htpc ^^ not sure wich one to chose tho.
> 
> You guys have any tips for me the case will be between a closet and the sofa ^^


I went with silent window. Gives you option to cover top, and add fan control.

Sent from my SM-G900W8 using Tapatalk


----------



## shilka

Spoiler: Finished rebuilding my PC


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Finished rebuilding my PC


Looks good!

Surprised you don't have a CLC in there.....I know you are as big a fan of them as I am.


----------



## Faster_is_better

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *grizz311*
> 
> I don't mind drilling extra holes in the case, its not a big deal for me, but it seems the newer EK xres 140 Revo with the fan bracket was more suited for this case. I don't really want to open up the bottom panel to remove the hard drives, because I don't have anywhere else to put them.
> 
> 
> 
> Looks like you have plenty of room to mount that pump to the psu cover. Or is that not an option?
> Sorry If I can't see it properly on the pictures.... kind of dark there.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *p.s.
> *Already had contact with Phanteks about my case....
> 
> Yesterday I had some time to unpack the Primo and have a look at it.
> Found this on the front panel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> A bit hard to see with the potato pictures. But it is a pretty noticeable (and feel-able) dent.
> 
> 
> PSU rubber missing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And also some skimped paint on the left panel (probably due to the hit to the front panel?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Can other Primo users here clarify if the right side panel fits nicely against the lower part of the case?
> Looks like my right panel is also slightly bend, at the front it aligns perfectly but towards the rear there is a slight gap between the panel and the case itself.
> 
> Phanteks asked for more pictures and a copy of my invoice so they can sort things out for me.
> Good support.... had a reply within 2 hours.
Click to expand...

My panels fit well. On the back side panel (psu area) it wasn't closing quite right, lining up with the screw holes in the back then I realized that magnetic dust filter was sitting to far back and hitting on the case... But it sounds like you have a different issue.

Also the paint on my case (Primo) is really thin, and I suspect they are all like this so paint issues or chipping can happen really easily. Then add that to good chance of damage while shipping this monster and you can see why Phanteks really needs good customer support (which they do have from almost all accounts in this thread).

You might also opt to not use that front bottom 140mm fan, it may not do very much to help with your radiator stacked in front of it, and it will give you more clearance if you need it.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> Finally go the thing somewhere close to finished:
> 
> Currently leaktesting, but it looks promising


Did you update your build log? I was following it but hadn't seen an update for a loooong time. Post a link if you have some new stuff









Also it sounds like that hub you have is probably dead. At the very least if you hook up power and fans they should run at full speed without any type of control wire.


----------



## ZoePancakes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> I went with silent window. Gives you option to cover top, and add fan control.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G900W8 using Tapatalk


I dont need the window as its between to solid places







sofa and closet, thats why i chose the phantek and not the fractal design s as phantek draws its air from the front and not from the sides


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZoePancakes*
> 
> I dont need the window as its between to solid places
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> sofa and closet, thats why i chose the phantek and not the fractal design s as phantek draws its air from the front and not from the sides


You can go with non window silent version.


----------



## dmfree88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pez*
> 
> I actually meant from the front so I could see how it looks from the exterior
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


Sorry for the delay, here it is:


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Faster_is_better*
> 
> My panels fit well. On the back side panel (psu area) it wasn't closing quite right, lining up with the screw holes in the back then I realized that magnetic dust filter was sitting to far back and hitting on the case... But it sounds like you have a different issue.
> 
> Also the paint on my case (Primo) is really thin, and I suspect they are all like this so paint issues or chipping can happen really easily. Then add that to good chance of damage while shipping this monster and you can see why Phanteks really needs good customer support (which they do have from almost all accounts in this thread).
> 
> You might also opt to not use that front bottom 140mm fan, it may not do very much to help with your radiator stacked in front of it, and it will give you more clearance if you need it.
> Did you update your build log? I was following it but hadn't seen an update for a loooong time. Post a link if you have some new stuff
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also it sounds like that hub you have is probably dead. At the very least if you hook up power and fans they should run at full speed without any type of control wire.


havent published much in my log yet, but I think I wrote a few pieces not to long ago. At any rate I'll take some more pictures when I drain the sysprep, I'll even get to use that nice valve I installed









At any rate, the build is far from finished. I just had to at least get it running and looking half way decent since I'm in a situation where I may have to move in a month or so and I really don't want to transport individual parts.


----------



## Jalkion

In a Enthoo Pro did you guys ever figure out how to do posivite pressure with a 280mm rad as exhaust? I've been theory crafting this for ages and I can't really find a solid solution.

From what I've read 2x140mm front intake, bottom 120mm intake should be good enough, but I am not sure about that.


----------



## Sazexa

Hey guys... Has anyone managed to fit two 360mm radiators inside the Evolv, without case mods? Like an idiot I already ordered one of the radiators (the top one), and just now I'm starting to realize I likely can't fit both radiators! I was planning on putting an 360x25mm in the top, and then I was going to measure to see what I could fit for depth on the front radiator after my pump and HDD bracket came in.

Am I stuck with only the option of a 240/280 in the front now, or top if I put the 360mm up front?


----------



## dmfree88

Anyone used plastidip paint before? Seems to be good price but I am not familiar with the product. Going to paint the inside of my Chasis the only thing I could find that is blue metal flake is around $20 a can. This is only $8.28 which seems great in comparison and the color looks pretty close to the extreme4 heatsinks:

https://www.dipyourcar.com/collections/metalizers/products/blue-metalizer

might be a little dark, opinions?


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sazexa*
> 
> Hey guys... Has anyone managed to fit two 360mm radiators inside the Evolv, without case mods? Like an idiot I already ordered one of the radiators (the top one), and just now I'm starting to realize I likely can't fit both radiators! I was planning on putting an 360x25mm in the top, and then I was going to measure to see what I could fit for depth on the front radiator after my pump and HDD bracket came in.
> 
> Am I stuck with only the option of a 240/280 in the front now, or top if I put the 360mm up front?




I knew I had seen it done, looks pretty snug but doable.


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sazexa*
> 
> Hey guys... Has anyone managed to fit two 360mm radiators inside the Evolv, without case mods? Like an idiot I already ordered one of the radiators (the top one), and just now I'm starting to realize I likely can't fit both radiators! I was planning on putting an 360x25mm in the top, and then I was going to measure to see what I could fit for depth on the front radiator after my pump and HDD bracket came in.
> 
> Am I stuck with only the option of a 240/280 in the front now, or top if I put the 360mm up front?


only if you use two really thin rads and can mount the top one pretty much flush against the case's rear exhaust fan slot, a thin 360 , like 30 or less, should go on the front. also a relatively short one, rads longer than 400 mm you wanna stay away from..


----------



## Sazexa

Thanks for the quick feed back!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PureBlackFire*
> 
> only if you use two really thin rads and can mount the top one pretty much flush against the case's rear exhaust fan slot, a thin 360 , like 30 or less, should go on the front. also a relatively short one, rads longer than 400 mm you wanna stay away from..


The radiator I currently have that I planned to use on the top is 400mm in length. It's an EK SE 360. Do you think I'd be okay with another EK radiator up front? The other radiator I'd like to get is also 400mm long. I might need to also take off the top panel to mount the radiator. Not for a mod, but to just get it as possibly far flush back as I can.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rfarmer*
> 
> 
> 
> I knew I had seen it done, looks pretty snug but doable.


Do you know the dimensions of those radiators used? I'd be okay with radiators similar to this.


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sazexa*
> 
> Thanks for the quick feed back!
> 
> The radiator I currently have that I planned to use on the top is 400mm in length. It's an EK SE 360. Do you think I'd be okay with another EK radiator up front? The other radiator I'd like to get is also 400mm long. I might need to also take off the top panel to mount the radiator. Not for a mod, but to just get it as possibly far flush back as I can.
> 
> I knew I had seen it done, looks pretty snug but doable.
> Do you know the dimensions of those radiators used? I'd be okay with radiators similar to this.


the case in that picture has been modded and the rad is zip tied to the case frame. the rad on top is the Alphacool ST30 360. it's also 400 mm long and it's 30 mm thick. as long as you use that same 26mm thin rad on the front and top you might get it done. otherwise no.


----------



## Sazexa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PureBlackFire*
> 
> the case in that picture has been modded and the rad is zip tied to the case frame. the rad on top is the Alphacool ST30 360. it's also 400 mm long and it's 30 mm thick. as long as you use that same 26mm thin rad on the front and top you might get it done. otherwise no.


Hmm. Interesting enough. Thanks.


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sazexa*
> 
> Thanks for the quick feed back!
> The radiator I currently have that I planned to use on the top is 400mm in length. It's an EK SE 360. Do you think I'd be okay with another EK radiator up front? The other radiator I'd like to get is also 400mm long. I might need to also take off the top panel to mount the radiator. Not for a mod, but to just get it as possibly far flush back as I can.
> Do you know the dimensions of those radiators used? I'd be okay with radiators similar to this.


Actually I found the pic on Reddit and there was no description. The Alphacool looks to be a Alphacool NexXxoS ST30 which is 400x124x30mm. The XSPC looks to be a XSPC RX360 Triple-Fan Radiator V3 which is 130 x 56 x 395mm. It looks like another 400mm should work especially if the front one is slimmer than the XSPC. The EK SE 360 should work.


----------



## paskowitz

Correct me if I am wrong, but wouldn't an EK XE 360 (or HWL BI GTX 360) push/pull in the front with a competent push OR pull (assuming no top mod) slim-ish 280 rad (HWL GTS, etc) up top would be the most efficient solution (vs push OR pull dual 360)? From a pure aesthetics perspective I understand wanting to go dual 360 (same brand) but to me, I don't see a performance benefit. With 280+360, you avoid any potential spacing conflicts, tubing runs are easier (ergo maintenance is easier), and if I am right, performance is potentially better.

I only say because... the SE has gotten some mediocre reviews. Especially comparatively (also explains my EK XE and HWL GTX/GTS recommendations)..


----------



## pez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmfree88*
> 
> Sorry for the delay, here it is:


Nice! Thanks for posting as I wasn't sure how it would look. Looks pretty good considering how I imagined it would







.


----------



## Avant Garde

Damn, now I'm certain that EK Predator 240 will not fit on top of Evolv ATX case! I mean, it CAN fit but it will block the top of the motherboard and RAM and I really don't want that radiator to block my motherboard and RAM... I see that many tend to mount ther AIO/CLC on the front as intake.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Avant Garde*
> 
> Damn, now I'm certain that EK Predator 240 will not fit on top of Evolv ATX case! I mean, it CAN fit but it will block the top of the motherboard and RAM and I really don't want that radiator to block my motherboard and RAM... I see that many tend to mount ther AIO/CLC on the front as intake.


EK 240 sits offset on top. It not blocking access to your mobo and ram.


----------



## Avant Garde

Ok but it's covering top of the motherboard and near half of RAM. Aesthetically, this is very bad. So I think that his natural position with this case would be in the front as intake. Much cleaner build.


----------



## michael-ocn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Avant Garde*
> 
> Ok but it's covering top of the motherboard and near half of RAM. Aesthetically, this is very bad. So I think that his natural position with this case would be in the front as intake. Much cleaner build.


Form follows function for me, cooling performance comes first and cosmetics are a secondary concern. I think roof mounted is best for performance considering I also have an air cooled gpu. If the gpu were in the loop too, that might be different.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Avant Garde*
> 
> Ok but it's covering top of the motherboard and near half of RAM. Aesthetically, this is very bad. So I think that his natural position with this case would be in the front as intake. Much cleaner build.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *michael-ocn*
> 
> Form follows function for me, cooling performance comes first and cosmetics are a secondary concern. I think roof mounted is best for performance considering I also have an air cooled gpu. If the gpu were in the loop too, that might be different.


I have to agree with @michael-ocn. Performance is priority. Front mounting will turn the case into a hot box, and raise GPU temps.

Also, I am not sure how you mounted this, but the Predator should barely be covering any RAM. It should only overhang the RAM by ~4-5mm in an Evolv ATX.


----------



## doyll

michael-ocn & ciarlatano said it all.


----------



## Avant Garde

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> I have to agree with @michael-ocn. Performance is priority. Front mounting will turn the case into a hot box, and raise GPU temps.
> 
> Also, I am not sure how you mounted this, but the Predator should barely be covering any RAM. It should only overhang the RAM by ~4-5mm in an Evolv ATX.


Ok but what about mounting that rad on the front and use two 140mm fans on top of the case as exhaust?


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Avant Garde*
> 
> Ok but what about mounting that rad on the front and use two 140mm fans on top of the case as exhaust?


That still leaves you with absolutely no cool air intake. But, if you are doing this for looks and not cooling.....


----------



## Dorito Bandit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmfree88*
> 
> Anyone used plastidip paint before? Seems to be good price but I am not familiar with the product. Going to paint the inside of my Chasis the only thing I could find that is blue metal flake is around $20 a can. This is only $8.28 which seems great in comparison and the color looks pretty close to the extreme4 heatsinks:
> 
> https://www.dipyourcar.com/collections/metalizers/products/blue-metalizer
> 
> might be a little dark, opinions?


Never used any plastidip, myself, but that looks pretty nice to me. I noticed that they have several sweet looking colors to choose from. Post up some pics if you do this.

Best of luck, too!


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmfree88*
> 
> Anyone used plastidip paint before? Seems to be good price but I am not familiar with the product. Going to paint the inside of my Chasis the only thing I could find that is blue metal flake is around $20 a can. This is only $8.28 which seems great in comparison and the color looks pretty close to the extreme4 heatsinks:
> 
> https://www.dipyourcar.com/collections/metalizers/products/blue-metalizer
> 
> might be a little dark, opinions?


There are a bunch of posts and threads here about Plastidip. Just use the search.....


----------



## eaglesfan398

My build in the works. Going to black out the top rad and run pastel white.









Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Avant Garde

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> That still leaves you with absolutely no cool air intake. But, if you are doing this for looks and not cooling.....


It seems that this guy does not have any temp problems with his GPU's (yes, SLI) + 360 Predator + mounted on the front

http://pcpartpicker.com/b/zwLD4D


----------



## Tim Drake

Anybody have pictures or have a rig with two 360mm radiators in a pro m?

One 360mm isn't quite enough for an overclocked 5960x and overclocked titan x


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tim Drake*
> 
> Anybody have pictures or have a rig with two 360mm radiators in a pro m?
> 
> One 360mm isn't quite enough for an overclocked 5960x and overclocked titan x


not a chance.


----------



## Tim Drake

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PureBlackFire*
> 
> not a chance.


What?


----------



## eaglesfan398

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tim Drake*
> 
> Anybody have pictures or have a rig with two 360mm radiators in a pro m?
> 
> One 360mm isn't quite enough for an overclocked 5960x and overclocked titan x


What 360 rad are you thinking about. The thick black ice radiators go ham.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Tim Drake

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eaglesfan398*
> 
> What 360 rad are you thinking about. The thick black ice radiators go ham.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Yeah, someone I know has a black ice GTX 360 for £35 posted and I really want it but I have no money atm D:


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Avant Garde*
> 
> It seems that this guy does not have any temp problems with his GPU's (yes, SLI) + 360 Predator + mounted on the front
> 
> http://pcpartpicker.com/b/zwLD4D


Not going to argue with random guy proof. Do as you like.


----------



## dmfree88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Avant Garde*
> 
> It seems that this guy does not have any temp problems with his GPU's (yes, SLI) + 360 Predator + mounted on the front
> 
> http://pcpartpicker.com/b/zwLD4D


It can be done but it is not optimal. It also will likely become a problem in higher ambients. Then your GPU and your motherboard components/RAM will all be sitting in warmer air no matter how much of the air you move out of the case. Without another intake the only air in the case comes from the rad (or through vents/cracks which creates more dust). Even if you made the top intake you would still never get the cooler air down to your GPU as the warmer air would come from the RAD fans (least resistance) while the cooler air would flow straight out the rear exhaust. If you look closely at the guys post on pcpartpicker he said something in regards the GPU were set to throttle at 64c and he also was using the top and bottom gpu slot (not the middle) so he had plenty of room for his GPU but the top was still hitting 64c at 100% fan (which must be loud and annoying). The top card required over 60% fan speed to keep idle still over 12c hotter than that bottom card at 19% fan speed.

So you could do it but you will be running hotter than you could be. GPU wont like it.


----------



## michael-ocn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Avant Garde*
> 
> It seems that this guy does not have any temp problems with his GPU's (yes, SLI) + 360 Predator + mounted on the front
> 
> http://pcpartpicker.com/b/zwLD4D


Well, he says he's running his evga 980ti kingpins at 1290 ghz, such low clocks will evade a lot of potential thermal problems. If he actually tried to crank those gpus up to 1500 ghz, things might be different.

If you're willing to trade some performance for how it looks, you can certainly do that.

What kind of cpu are you going to get, one with a lower TDP would help a little, one of the mainstream cpus with 95W instead of the 140W enthusiast processors.

The swing out side panel door on the EvolveATX might be useful for you when gaming.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Avant Garde*
> 
> It seems that this guy does not have any temp problems with his GPU's (yes, SLI) + 360 Predator + mounted on the front
> 
> http://pcpartpicker.com/b/zwLD4D


What ciarlatano said, but a quick explanation.

Combining lots of airflow with a 360mm stacked fan radiator on a 91w CPU means air is not going to be warmed up much.

But why would anyone with with any common sense put that much radiator on a 91w CPU and air cool 2x GTX 980 TI GPUs?









It has to do with the fact he has a FUBAR cooling setup and built for looks, not function. Cooling a 6700K CPU with a 360 radiator having stacked fans is twice the fans needed and about 3 times bigger than needed for 91w CPU. We also have no idea how fast the fans are running so no idea how much airflow is moving through the case. If they are running fairly fast there is a lot of airflow through the radiator 3x bigger than needed so air is not heating up much.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmfree88*
> 
> It can be done but it is not optimal. It also will likely become a problem in higher ambients. Then your GPU and your motherboard components/RAM will all be sitting in warmer air no matter how much of the air you move out of the case. Without another intake the only air in the case comes from the rad (or through vents/cracks which creates more dust). Even if you made the top intake you would still never get the cooler air down to your GPU as the warmer air would come from the RAD fans (least resistance) while the cooler air would flow straight out the rear exhaust. If you look closely at the guys post on pcpartpicker he said something in regards the GPU were set to throttle at 64c and he also was using the top and bottom gpu slot (not the middle) so he had plenty of room for his GPU but the top was still hitting 64c at 100% fan (which must be loud and annoying). The top card required over 60% fan speed to keep idle still over 12c hotter than that bottom card at 19% fan speed.
> 
> So you could do it but you will be running hotter than you could be. GPU wont like it.


3x top intake and 3x front intake and only the back for exhaust means only half of the airflow potential of intake can leave case .. so case flows the same as with only front intakes, but the front intake flow about half of what they flow without top intakes.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *michael-ocn*
> 
> Well, he says he's running his evga 980ti kingpins at 1290 ghz, such low clocks will evade a lot of potential thermal problems. If he actually tried to crank those gpus up to 1500 ghz, things might be different.
> 
> If you're willing to trade some performance for how it looks, you can certainly do that.
> 
> What kind of cpu are you going to get, one with a lower TDP would help a little, one of the mainstream cpus with 95W instead of the 140W enthusiast processors.
> 
> The swing out side panel door on the EvolveATX might be useful for you when gaming.


Good points.

We can band-aid a FUBAR, but then it's a FUBAR with a band-aid.


----------



## Avant Garde

I'm planning to cool most probably a 6700K and I certainly will not use a 360 rad. That's way overkill for CPU such as Skylake and not adding a water block atm.


----------



## Chopper1591

People.

Any ideas on aiding airflow over the VRM on my 990fx r2.0 when I do the build in the Primo?
Still waiting for the new parts to do the loop.

Currently I have a Noctua 92mm fan on a selfmade mount.




I just hate the color of the thing so much.









Maybe I will make a similar mount so I can place a 12 or 14cm fan on it and have it blow across the VRM sink at an angle. Blowing the air over it towards the top (where I will have a 420 radiator pulling air out of the case.

Any better ideas?

Note:
I don't plan to use a rear exhaust fan in the Primo. Will use front 140mm(x2) and bottom 360 rad as intake and top 420 rad as exhaust.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> People.
> 
> Any ideas on aiding airflow over the VRM on my 990fx r2.0 when I do the build in the Primo?
> Still waiting for the new parts to do the loop.
> 
> Currently I have a Noctua 92mm fan on a selfmade mount.
> 
> I just hate the color of the thing so much.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Maybe I will make a similar mount so I can place a 12 or 14cm fan on it and have it blow across the VRM sink at an angle. Blowing the air over it towards the top (where I will have a 420 radiator pulling air out of the case.
> 
> Any better ideas?
> 
> Note:
> I don't plan to use a rear exhaust fan in the Primo. Will use front 140mm(x2) and bottom 360 rad as intake and top 420 rad as exhaust.


I was always under the impression that the issues stemmed from the socket on the ASUS boards. Perhaps @miklkit could make his way over here to lend some advice, he has done extensive work and testing on 990FX boards for VRM and socket cooling.


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> I was always under the impression that the issues stemmed from the socket on the ASUS boards. Perhaps @miklkit could make his way over here to lend some advice, he has done extensive work and testing on 990FX boards for VRM and socket cooling.


I'm note sure it is brand specific.
It's more that these VRMs run toasty with a nice overclock. These chips just like a lot of juice.

I know for sure that my current board (Asus 990fx r2.0) is a lot better than my previous (Giga 990fx rev1.0).

Curious to other people's opinions.


----------



## wickedout

Hello everyone. I'm in officially with the Phanteks club now after completing my transfer to this new lovely case. I had the Corsair 760T but the F-ING power button on the case went to crap. So I ordered this and walla it all works. Man Corsair stuff has gone down the hill at least for me. Thumbs up to Phanteks for such a well build case. Thank you.

P.S Also installed a new EVGA SuperNova 1000 P2 Platinum PSU. Love it! It's super beast.


----------



## PureBlackFire

^ is that a predator 240?


----------



## wickedout

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PureBlackFire*
> 
> ^ is that a predator 240?


Yes it is. It was a tough fit but I managed to make it work and get it in there. It did turnout pretty sweet.


----------



## michael-ocn

hi @wickedout welcome to the club!


----------



## wickedout

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *michael-ocn*
> 
> hi @wickedout welcome to the club!


Thanks man. I can't believe how bad Corsair has become. It's amazing to me. I won't be ordering anything corsair again for awhile. So far this case is pretty damn awesome.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> People.
> 
> Any ideas on aiding airflow over the VRM on my 990fx r2.0 when I do the build in the Primo?
> Still waiting for the new parts to do the loop.
> 
> Currently I have a Noctua 92mm fan on a selfmade mount.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I just hate the color of the thing so much.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Maybe I will make a similar mount so I can place a 12 or 14cm fan on it and have it blow across the VRM sink at an angle. Blowing the air over it towards the top (where I will have a 420 radiator pulling air out of the case.
> 
> Any better ideas?
> 
> Note:
> I don't plan to use a rear exhaust fan in the Primo. Will use front 140mm(x2) and bottom 360 rad as intake and top 420 rad as exhaust.


Change fan to one with better colors?








Paint your Noc or get a different color fan.
Arctic F9 are good fan for their price.

I often build without using the I/O shield on motherboard. This improve airflow over components between CPU and back of case.

With a big radiator in bottom I would suggest raising case up on a caster base. This not only greatly improves airflow to bottom vents but also makesPrimo much easier to move.
Quote:


> Total airflow area of intake through Primo base to bottom fans is 91.35sq cm.. a single 120mm fan has 101sq cm airflow area.. and that's not taking into account the lost of airflow area caused by the grill mesh of another 60-70% (grill mesh is 30-40% open area).
> 
> Left side has no airflow.. The grills on filters are totally cosmetic!! There's a solid surface behind them visible when you take them out to clean!!
> 
> . 0.0sq cm = Left side vents are fake
> 16.2sq cm = Right side has 36x 3x15mm slots
> 36.75sq cm = Back is 147x25mm
> 15sq cm = Front has 5x 10x30mm
> 23.4sq cm = Base is 2mm off floor with 126.5cm - 19.5cm for feet = 117cm + back area
> *91.35sq cm* = Total area
> 
> This does not take into account the area loss to grill mesh or turbulence (approx. 30-40% airflow restriction)..
> 
> *35mm space* between floor and bottom of case adds 400sq cm. That is *with 6x30mm castor* area deducted (42.4sq cm).. 6x square blocks is 73.5sq cm
> *40mm space* between floor and bottom of case adds 409.6sq cm of airflow area. This is *with 6x 40mm block* area deducted. 6x square blocks is 96sq cm
> 
> By comparison, a *120mm fan* has about *100sq cm* of airflow area and a *140mm fan* has about *140sq cm* of airflow area. It varies some because of center hub size differences.


You could make a "sled" the size of case bottom with blocks where each of the feet on case are.


Corners are lap joint.


Castors are about $2.50 each. Pop the studs out of castors to install them into base. Base is drilled and tapped so studs thread in flush on top.
 

10mm (3/8")Solid Baltic birch plywood is $10 for a 20"x30" piece


Lacquer spot putty to fill little imperfections (about $15)
Several grits of sandpaper.
Primer like used when painting a car and black acrylic lacquer for finish.


Not really a cheap project .. and a custom woodworking shop is almost a necessity. I'm a retired custom woodworker with lots of tools and experience.
You could cut the base out of one piece and cut the center out of it. There are different castor and mount choices. I use the threaded pin because it is the most compact and cleanest looking.

Like I said, some nice blocks of wood or maybe ice hockey pucks (1" thick x 3"dia.) would do the job for you.









This is blocks under corners, Primo Midas on 30mm castors, another on 30mm casters, and one with 40mm castor base.


----------



## michael-ocn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wickedout*
> 
> Thanks man. I can't believe how bad Corsair has become. It's amazing to me. I won't be ordering anything corsair again for awhile. So far this case is pretty damn awesome.


Yea, phanteks is definitely on a roll with their enthoo cases!


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *michael-ocn*
> 
> Yea, phanteks is definitely on a roll with their enthoo cases!


Indeed!








While most of us don't write 'Enthoo' before our case model name, alll Phanteks cases are Enthoo series cases except new Eclipse P400 series.


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Change fan to one with better colors?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Paint your Noc or get a different color fan.
> Arctic F9 are good fan for their price.
> 
> I often build without using the I/O shield on motherboard. This improve airflow over components between CPU and back of case.
> 
> With a big radiator in bottom I would suggest raising case up on a caster base. This not only greatly improves airflow to bottom vents but also makesPrimo much easier to move.
> You could make a "sled" the size of case bottom with blocks where each of the feet on case are.
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Corners are lap joint.
> 
> 
> Castors are about $2.50 each. Pop the studs out of castors to install them into base. Base is drilled and tapped so studs thread in flush on top.
> 
> 
> 10mm (3/8")Solid Baltic birch plywood is $10 for a 20"x30" piece
> 
> 
> Lacquer spot putty to fill little imperfections (about $15)
> Several grits of sandpaper.
> Primer like used when painting a car and black acrylic lacquer for finish.
> 
> 
> Not really a cheap project .. and a custom woodworking shop is almost a necessity. I'm a retired custom woodworker with lots of tools and experience.
> You could cut the base out of one piece and cut the center out of it. There are different castor and mount choices. I use the threaded pin because it is the most compact and cleanest looking.
> 
> 
> 
> Like I said, some nice blocks of wood or maybe ice hockey pucks (1" thick x 3"dia.) would do the job for you.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is blocks under corners, Primo Midas on 30mm castors, another on 30mm casters, and one with 40mm castor base.


I thank you for the lengthy reply.
Castors would look like a nice boost in airflow.... but I actually plan to place the case on my desk.
I changed to this desk in the first place because my Corsair 650D with my radiator on top didn't fit on the desk. There is a bookshelf above it that would prevent me from using the case on the desk.

The Primo can fit both radiators inside, making it around 5cm lower in comparison to the 650D.
When I then raise the case to improve bottom airflow it wouldn't fit on the desk anymore.

I can probably paint the Noctua though.
Is it easy to disassemble a fan?


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wickedout*
> 
> Thanks man. I can't believe how bad Corsair has become. It's amazing to me. I won't be ordering anything corsair again for awhile. So far this case is pretty damn awesome.


"The Phanteks is so much better built and designed than my Corsair" is a recurring theme here. Welcome to the club. Glad to see you got that sailboat monkey off your back.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> I thank you for the lengthy reply.
> Castors would look like a nice boost in airflow.... but I actually plan to place the case on my desk.
> I changed to this desk in the first place because my Corsair 650D with my radiator on top didn't fit on the desk. There is a bookshelf above it that would prevent me from using the case on the desk.
> 
> The Primo can fit both radiators inside, making it around 5cm lower in comparison to the 650D.
> When I then raise the case to improve bottom airflow it wouldn't fit on the desk anymore.
> 
> I can probably paint the Noctua though.
> Is it easy to disassemble a fan?


It works without spacer, but the limited airflow area to bottom creates a windstorm.








Even if you could extend the rubber pads it sets on by 10mm it would make a big difference.
By 'not fit on my desk' do you mean the top of case is blocked by a shelf or something? This may case problems with top vents not having any air flow room for air coming out the top.


----------



## dlewbell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> I can probably paint the Noctua though.
> Is it easy to disassemble a fan?


Depending on how new it is, you may not want to do that. From what I've heard, you can't take apart the newer Noctua fans without destroying them in the process.
http://www.overclock.net/t/1052361/noctua-nf-p14-fans-blades-not-removable/0_20
Edit: It seems to vary by fan model & may also vary by bearing style. I'm not totally sure as everything I find is 4+ years old. If you want to try, here's a guide from one that was able to be disassembled.
http://forum.overclock3d.net/showthread.php?t=35185#entry419931
Edit 2: If yours is newer, here's a guide to dyeing it.
http://www.overclock.net/t/1595086/noctua-fan-color-beige-and-brown-change-the-color-yup/0_20


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> It works without spacer, but the limited airflow area to bottom creates a windstorm.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Even if you could extend the rubber pads it sets on by 10mm it would make a big difference.
> By 'not fit on my desk' do you mean the top of case is blocked by a shelf or something? This may case problems with top vents not having any air flow room for air coming out the top.


I will try to explain it:
My desk is 64cm deep and the shelf above it is 25cm deep. Currently I had to lower the plank 1 stip (5cm) to be able to fit my 650D on it.


When I raise the desk one step (5cm) it will be more comfortable for me to sit... keyboard plank is too low currently (I am 6 feet 4)







.
With the plank higher I have about 66cm clearance between the desk and the bookshelf.

*Do note* that I plan to place the Primo 90 degrees rotated compared to my current case. The 420 radiator will be in the top and I will just slide the rad as far as possible to the front so the biggest part of the rad is free from the bookshelf.

I am somewhat regretting my choice...
Firstly I bought the new desk plank and made it to fit myself because I wanted something new. Also wanted my case of the ground (dust and temp issue). It was under my desk and the heat was getting trapped pretty badly under it making my case circulate it and obviously getting warmer over time.
Smart me didn't measure the height of my Corsair case with the rad. Happy as I were when I finished the desk plank (looks better in real life than in the picture







), a bummer I had when I tried to place the case on it.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dlewbell*
> 
> Depending on how new it is, you may not want to do that. From what I've heard, you can't take apart the newer Noctua fans without destroying them in the process.
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1052361/noctua-nf-p14-fans-blades-not-removable/0_20
> Edit: It seems to vary by fan model & may also vary by bearing style. I'm not totally sure as everything I find is 4+ years old. If you want to try, here's a guide from one that was able to be disassembled.
> http://forum.overclock3d.net/showthread.php?t=35185#entry419931
> Edit 2: If yours is newer, here's a guide to dyeing it.
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1595086/noctua-fan-color-beige-and-brown-change-the-color-yup/0_20


I have a Noctua NF-A9 pwm fan. Not sure if I can take that one apart.
Might as wel try it... no way that color is getting in the black/red primo build.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> I will try to explain it:
> My desk is 64cm deep and the shelf above it is 25cm deep. Currently I had to lower the plank 1 stip (5cm) to be able to fit my 650D on it.
> 
> 
> When I raise the desk one step (5cm) it will be more comfortable for me to sit... keyboard plank is too low currently (I am 6 feet 4)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> With the plank higher I have about 66cm clearance between the desk and the bookshelf.
> 
> *Do note* that I plan to place the Primo 90 degrees rotated compared to my current case. The 420 radiator will be in the top and I will just slide the rad as far as possible to the front so the biggest part of the rad is free from the bookshelf.
> 
> I am somewhat regretting my choice...
> Firstly I bought the new desk plank and made it to fit myself because I wanted something new. Also wanted my case of the ground (dust and temp issue). It was under my desk and the heat was getting trapped pretty badly under it making my case circulate it and obviously getting warmer over time.
> Smart me didn't measure the height of my Corsair case with the rad. Happy as I were when I finished the desk plank (looks better in real life than in the picture
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ), a bummer I had when I tried to place the case on it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have a Noctua NF-A9 pwm fan. Not sure if I can take that one apart.
> 
> Might as wel try it... no way that color is getting in the black/red primo build.


Well, it's your fault .. or your Mom's for feeding you too much and letting to grow so tall!









I'm sure it will work. Once it's built and placed you can decide, and if you can put a 2cm spacer under the feet, it would double the airflow to bottom and help a lot.
Nice looking desk.


----------



## dlewbell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> I will try to explain it:
> My desk is 64cm deep and the shelf above it is 25cm deep. Currently I had to lower the plank 1 stip (5cm) to be able to fit my 650D on it.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Picture
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When I raise the desk one step (5cm) it will be more comfortable for me to sit... keyboard plank is too low currently (I am 6 feet 4)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> With the plank higher I have about 66cm clearance between the desk and the bookshelf.
> 
> *Do note* that I plan to place the Primo 90 degrees rotated compared to my current case. The 420 radiator will be in the top and I will just slide the rad as far as possible to the front so the biggest part of the rad is free from the bookshelf.
> 
> I am somewhat regretting my choice...
> Firstly I bought the new desk plank and made it to fit myself because I wanted something new. Also wanted my case of the ground (dust and temp issue). It was under my desk and the heat was getting trapped pretty badly under it making my case circulate it and obviously getting warmer over time.
> Smart me didn't measure the height of my Corsair case with the rad. Happy as I were when I finished the desk plank (looks better in real life than in the picture
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ), a bummer I had when I tried to place the case on it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have a Noctua NF-A9 pwm fan. Not sure if I can take that one apart.
> Might as wel try it... no way that color is getting in the black/red primo build.


If you decide to keep the computer set up long term in one position, you could always cut some fan holes under it in the desk. You may not want to do so, but it's always an option.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dlewbell*
> 
> Depending on how new it is, you may not want to do that. From what I've heard, you can't take apart the newer Noctua fans without destroying them in the process.
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1052361/noctua-nf-p14-fans-blades-not-removable/0_20
> Edit: It seems to vary by fan model & may also vary by bearing style. I'm not totally sure as everything I find is 4+ years old. If you want to try, here's a guide from one that was able to be disassembled.
> http://forum.overclock3d.net/showthread.php?t=35185#entry419931
> Edit 2: If yours is newer, here's a guide to dyeing it.
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1595086/noctua-fan-color-beige-and-brown-change-the-color-yup/0_20


Or you could just buy the Redux model.....or a fan that you can live with the color of that is the equal of the Noctua in the actual application. That seems a bit simpler.


----------



## Vindicare

I'm deeply in love with the Evolv ATX Tempered Glass but not having a 5 1/4 bay for my Aquaero is a dealbreaker


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Well, it's your fault .. or your Mom's for feeding you too much and letting to grow so tall!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm sure it will work. Once it's built and placed you can decide, and if you can put a 2cm spacer under the feet, it would double the airflow to bottom and help a lot.
> Nice looking desk.


Haha good one.
Sadly im not going to be able to change that anymore. Tall is tall.









Problem is I will have about 1,5cm of room above the case so raising will be hard if not impossible.

I will just see how temps are when i have it up and running.

Thanks. I like the color of the plank. Was an kitchen top from ikea







. The thing was only like €40. And its solid/heavy, no cardboard stuff of a few kg.

I have bought 7mm fan shrouds btw. 6 120mm ones. 3 between the case and fans, then 3 between those fans and the UT60 360 which is going in the bottom.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dlewbell*
> 
> If you decide to keep the computer set up long term in one position, you could always cut some fan holes under it in the desk. You may not want to do so, but it's always an option.


Yeah I don't feel like doing that but it is an option.

Best would be to raise the book shelves some more but that would be tough.

Ah well. Temps shouldnt be worse than I have now, right?
Im going from a 360 + 140 to 360 + 420 rad space.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Or you could just buy the Redux model.....or a fan that you can live with the color of that is the equal of the Noctua in the actual application. That seems a bit simpler.


Did you really just say simpler?
This is OCnet.

Besides I like the fan and why ditch something if it ain't broken.
I have left over spraypaint (semi-matt black) from the EK 420 repaint.


----------



## wickedout

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *wickedout*
> 
> Thanks man. I can't believe how bad Corsair has become. It's amazing to me. I won't be ordering anything corsair again for awhile. So far this case is pretty damn awesome.
> 
> 
> 
> "The Phanteks is so much better built and designed than my Corsair" is a recurring theme here. Welcome to the club. Glad to see you got that sailboat monkey off your back.
Click to expand...

What a damn relief to get rid of that Corsair 760T junk! All I know is they better hook me up with a new case. Front panel I/O's don't get replaced by user. I will not do any work on it myself. It's a new case or a refund for me. Phanteks has it right. So glad that monkey is off my back.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vindicare*
> 
> I'm deeply in love with the Evolv ATX Tempered Glass but not having a 5 1/4 bay for my Aquaero is a dealbreaker


Nothing a little modding can't fix.


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vindicare*
> 
> I'm deeply in love with the Evolv ATX Tempered Glass but not having a 5 1/4 bay for my Aquaero is a dealbreaker


you could get the grey pro M acrylic or Pro m TG. same chassis as the Evolv ATX, cheaper exterior and a 5.25" bay.


----------



## boredgunner

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> "The Phanteks is so much better built and designed than my Corsair" is a recurring theme here.


Haha, I'll be in that club too soon. Going to be replacing my Corsair Air 540 with an Evolv Tempered Glass in a few months most likely. It seems too good for the price.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dlewbell*
> 
> If you decide to keep the computer set up long term in one position, you could always cut some fan holes under it in the desk. You may not want to do so, but it's always an option.


That is a viable option.
Another would be to shorten the shelf enough so case can be raised up.
My guess is you could put the back part of case tight against the shelf and only raise temps a degree, maybe two.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> Haha good one.
> Sadly im not going to be able to change that anymore. Tall is tall.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Problem is I will have about 1,5cm of room above the case so raising will be hard if not impossible.
> 
> I will just see how temps are when i have it up and running.
> 
> Thanks. I like the color of the plank. Was an kitchen top from ikea
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . The thing was only like €40. And its solid/heavy, no cardboard stuff of a few kg.
> 
> I have bought 7mm fan shrouds btw. 6 120mm ones. 3 between the case and fans, then 3 between those fans and the UT60 360 which is going in the bottom.


1.5cm is a lot of room! You could easily raise the case 0.3cm and still have 1.2cm above at top. If you set the case front to back on end of your 'plank'







, don't set it against the wall. The PSU intake is at lower back of right side, and it needs at least 70mm clearance from the wall.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vindicare*
> 
> I'm deeply in love with the Evolv ATX Tempered Glass but not having a 5 1/4 bay for my Aquaero is a dealbreaker


Do you really use your 5.25" Aquaero display? I use mouse, keyboard and monitor for mine.


----------



## Faster_is_better

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *wickedout*
> 
> Thanks man. I can't believe how bad Corsair has become. It's amazing to me. I won't be ordering anything corsair again for awhile. So far this case is pretty damn awesome.
> 
> 
> 
> "The Phanteks is so much better built and designed than my Corsair" is a recurring theme here. Welcome to the club. Glad to see you got that sailboat monkey off your back.
Click to expand...

Luckily I skipped the Corsair case, straight to Primo. When I was researching a case for my next build I had my budget around $200 max, went through tons of cases on Newegg to compare and ended up between a Switch 810 or Corsair 750, ultimately I wanted the 810 but it was getting a little bit rare. Then I happened upon Primo which was just above my radar of price range and was blown away at all the awesome features







Stretched my budget for that of course and love it.

I bought 2 Corsair 300r last year for a client and wasn't impressed with them. Only reason I chose them over some of the Phanteks lineup was because I could get a complete Demciflex filter kit for them for cheaper than a Phanteks + filter kit. They were really basic flimsy cases and to expensive for what they offered standalone.


----------



## Vindicare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Do you really use your 5.25" Aquaero display? I use mouse, keyboard and monitor for mine.


i like the displaty and being able to monitor stuff without launching the software


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> 1.5cm is a lot of room! You could easily raise the case 0.3cm and still have 1.2cm above at top. If you set the case front to back on end of your 'plank'
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , don't set it against the wall. The PSU intake is at lower back of right side, and it needs at least 70mm clearance from the wall.


lol

Yeah I will leave 20 or so cm clearance on the right.


----------



## Joe88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wickedout*
> 
> Yes it is. It was a tough fit but I managed to make it work and get it in there. It did turnout pretty sweet.


You think a predator 360 would fit if you put the pump side to the rear fan instead? (that way you would only lose one 5.3" bay (hopefully))

There is also the issue of it hitting the mobo vrm heatsink and or blocking/hitting into the cpu power connector though it seems like you just have enough clearance.


----------



## boredgunner

Would it be possible to fit a Swiftech H320-X2 Prestige on top and an H220-X2 prestige on the front at the same time, in the Evolv ATX Tempered Glass?


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *boredgunner*
> 
> Would it be possible to fit a Swiftech H320-X2 Prestige on top and an H220-X2 prestige on the front at the same time, in the Evolv ATX Tempered Glass?


Only if you were to enlarge the opening in the midplate, as the res and pump won't quite fit through.

But.....why not just add a 240mm rad to the loop? If you feel you really need redundancy, you could also add an MCP50X. The cost of the MCP50X and really nice 240mm rad will cost you less than an H220-X2 and you wind up with better components.


----------



## boredgunner

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Only if you were to enlarge the opening in the midplate, as the res and pump won't quite fit through.
> 
> But.....why not just add a 240mm rad to the loop? If you feel you really need redundancy, you could also add an MCP50X. The cost of the MCP50X and really nice 240mm rad will cost you less than an H220-X2 and you wind up with better components.


Two AIOs is also much easier to set up, and less risky for a more clumsy such as myself. I'm not counting your idea either though, I've been juggling them back and forth. So I wager two H220-X2 Prestiges will fit in the case, in case I go that route?


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *boredgunner*
> 
> Two AIOs is also much easier to set up, and less risky for a more clumsy such as myself. I'm not counting your idea either though, I've been juggling them back and forth. So I wager two H220-X2 Prestiges will fit in the case, in case I go that route?


Yes, they will fit.....but unless you are running a dual CPU server board, this doesn't make any sense. If you are adding a GPU, you are going to have to drain, configure, fill and bleed one of these anyway. It isn't any more work to do it correctly (excepting cutting two more pieces of hose....that's like 30 seconds of time). I am just totally confused as to what you might be trying to do here.


----------



## boredgunner

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Yes, they will fit.....but unless you are running a dual CPU server board, this doesn't make any sense. If you are adding a GPU, you are going to have to drain, configure, fill and bleed one of these anyway. It isn't any more work to do it correctly (excepting cutting two more pieces of hose....that's like 30 seconds of time). I am just totally confused as to what you might be trying to do here.


One for the GPU. As far as connections go, using a second AIO would at least cut down on how many parts I'd have to connect together, cutting out more potential errors on my behalf, not to mention the CPU would be separated and would require basically no work at all (just installing the AIO and leaving it at that).


----------



## owcraftsman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vindicare*
> 
> I'm deeply in love with the Evolv ATX Tempered Glass but not having a 5 1/4 bay for my Aquaero is a dealbreaker


Ditto I really dislike the trend of no 5-1/4 drive bays I could go for side mounted but none at all I can't like it.


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *boredgunner*
> 
> Two AIOs is also much easier to set up, and less risky for a more clumsy such as myself. I'm not counting your idea either though, I've been juggling them back and forth. So I wager two H220-X2 Prestiges will fit in the case, in case I go that route?


I don't know which Swiftech rad you have now but Swiftech AIO + a quality rad (HWL, EK, etc) would likely add better performance as well. It would also look better.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> I don't know which Swiftech rad you have now but Swiftech AIO + a quality rad (HWL, EK, etc) would likely add better performance as well. It would also look better.


Exactly what I have been saying. It would also be more cost effective.


----------



## wickedout

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Joe88*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *wickedout*
> 
> Yes it is. It was a tough fit but I managed to make it work and get it in there. It did turnout pretty sweet.
> 
> 
> 
> You think a predator 360 would fit if you put the pump side to the rear fan instead? (that way you would only lose one 5.3" bay (hopefully))
> 
> There is also the issue of it hitting the mobo vrm heatsink and or blocking/hitting into the cpu power connector though it seems like you just have enough clearance.
Click to expand...

I would not recommend the 360 rad unless you put it up front. But not on top of the case. The 240 was just enough room for it to fit accordingly. It worked out great.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> lol
> 
> Yeah I will leave 20 or so cm clearance on the right.


10cm is plenty.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vindicare*
> 
> i like the displaty and being able to monitor stuff without launching the software


I can understand that.


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> 10cm is plenty.


I know. But I also need to place the amp of my Edifier C3X next to my case. Can highly recommend that 2.1 set though, good quality for it's price IMO. Much more pleasent noise compared to Logitech speakers.

Side note:
Which speed do you think I need to set my d5 at?

Running:
- ek supremacy evo
- ek 290x fullcover block
- UT60 360
- ek CE 420

Should speed 3 be sufficient?


----------



## Joe88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wickedout*
> 
> I would not recommend the 360 rad unless you put it up front. But not on top of the case. The 240 was just enough room for it to fit accordingly. It worked out great.


I have 3x 120mm on top right now, I can push these fans further to the front to allow even more room for the pump/res/tubing to the rear of the case. I cant put it in the front as only 2x 140mm, 2x 120x will fit (I would also lose all the drive bays)



Can you by any chance upload a few close up pics of the clearance?


----------



## xTesla1856

To all the Evolv ATX TG owners: Is the glass on the sidepanels tinted in any way? Like Corsair does for example? If the glass is full clear and untinted, I might finally retire my Air 540


----------



## FullForceUF

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xTesla1856*
> 
> To all the Evolv ATX TG owners: Is the glass on the sidepanels tinted in any way? Like Corsair does for example? If the glass is full clear and untinted, I might finally retire my Air 540


Yes it's tinted.


----------



## xTesla1856

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FullForceUF*
> 
> Yes it's tinted.


How much compared to an Air 540? Can't find a decent comparison..


----------



## FullForceUF

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xTesla1856*
> 
> How much compared to an Air 540? Can't find a decent comparison..


I haven't handled an Air 540 before but from what I saw on a few videos, it looks to be similar maybe slightly darker. It's a mild tint.

I'll say this, I was figuring that I was going to want to tint the cable management side panel. However after getting it yesterday I think I'm going to run it for a while before doing anything.


----------



## paskowitz

It's a mild tint. Certainly less than something like the Define R4 Blackout.


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xTesla1856*
> 
> To all the Evolv ATX TG owners: Is the glass on the sidepanels tinted in any way? Like Corsair does for example? If the glass is full clear and untinted, I might finally retire my Air 540


if you mean is the rear panel opaque, blacked out, like on the 760T, no, you can see right through both panels.


----------



## haszek

In evolv atx, if you have front and top radiators,how do you keep your temps low?

In my situation front 280ce, top 360pe and temps in the case are like 7-8 degrees higher idle (after using a little chrome, little youtube etc) than my ambient temperature. While gaming it gets to 15 degrees difference in the case itself. Cooling 6700k and 1080gtx. Both OC. Vardar fans on 360, phanteks on 280.

On idle fans are on minimum vardar around 800rpm, phanteks around 550rpm. During gaming fans are running- vardar around 1400, phanteks around 1100. Both cpu and GPU get to around 55C. Radiators temperature is approx 40C while gaming (checked with IR thermometer).


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *haszek*
> 
> In evolv atx, if you have front and top radiators,how do you keep your temps low?
> 
> In my situation front 280ce, top 360pe and temps in the case are like 7-8 degrees higher idle (after using a little chrome, little youtube etc) than my ambient temperature. While gaming it gets to 15 degrees difference in the case itself. Cooling 6700k and 1080gtx. Both OC. Vardar fans on 360, phanteks on 280.
> 
> On idle fans are on minimum vardar around 800rpm, phanteks around 550rpm. During gaming fans are running- vardar around 1400, phanteks around 1100. Both cpu and GPU get to around 55C. Radiators temperature is approx 40C while gaming (checked with IR thermometer).


What is your ambient temp?


----------



## haszek

Ambient around 23C. In case temp idle 30C, load 38C


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Rear, top, front which is exhaust or intake?
Have you seal the top to prevent excess heat going back in case?


----------



## haszek

Front in, top out. With 360 on top there is not much to seal also from reading earlier in the thread it looks like it matters the most with 240/280 top mounted rads.

I'm starting to think that with this case,lowering case temps might be more beneficial than second radiator in the front. Maybe changing the setup to use just top radiator, in front two 140 fans, try to squeeze back exhaust fan as well. Second radiator doesn't give advantage with case temps like this.


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *haszek*
> 
> Front in, top out. With 360 on top there is not much to seal also from reading earlier in the thread it looks like it matters the most with 240/280 top mounted rads.
> 
> I'm starting to think that with this case,lowering case temps might be more beneficial than second radiator in the front. Maybe changing the setup to use just top radiator, in front two 140 fans, try to squeeze back exhaust fan as well. Second radiator doesn't give advantage with case temps like this.


Agreed.
With the warm air inside the top radiator won't cool much.
30c inside the case would be ok.. but 38 is a bit much indeed under load.

Can you mod the bottom to place an extra intake fan?
Just thinking outside the box here. Don't know your setup.

I do struggle with the same thing:
Fresh intake vs radiator heat inside the case.

I hope my top 420 will cool properly with the air coming in from the bottom 360 radiator and (2x) front 140 intake.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *haszek*
> 
> Front in, top out. With 360 on top there is not much to seal also from reading earlier in the thread it looks like it matters the most with 240/280 top mounted rads.


Look at the diagram too see exactly what areas to seal. All that extra open space the heat from the rad will just get recycled back in the rad and case.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *haszek*
> 
> In evolv atx, if you have front and top radiators,how do you keep your temps low?
> 
> In my situation front 280ce, top 360pe and temps in the case are like 7-8 degrees higher idle (after using a little chrome, little youtube etc) than my ambient temperature. While gaming it gets to 15 degrees difference in the case itself. Cooling 6700k and 1080gtx. Both OC. Vardar fans on 360, phanteks on 280.
> 
> On idle fans are on minimum vardar around 800rpm, phanteks around 550rpm. During gaming fans are running- vardar around 1400, phanteks around 1100. Both cpu and GPU get to around 55C. Radiators temperature is approx 40C while gaming (checked with IR thermometer).


Air temp inside of case being 7-8c above room at idle? That is not really much difference, especially with dual radiators requiring one function as intake. Neither is 15c when gaming a big difference.
Radiator IR reading is the surface temp of fin/core tube, so not of much use.

What Sp33d Junki3 said.








You do need block all opening in top radiator tray that are not covered by radiator? These let the heated air coming out of radiator back into case if not blocked off.

You can remove the top by taking out 2x screws in back that attach the plastic piece between top and back panel to back panel. there are 2x more in the front behind the front panel, just pop off front panel to access them.

Edit:
It does not take many small holes leaking heated air back into cooler area to make it a few degrees warmer. Think of these holes as little heaters blowing warm air into your room.









Radiators are not near as reactive to intake air temp changes to component temps as air coolers. While air coolers react almost 1:1, radiators react at a much higher ratio. Especially in real water cooling systems where the coolant flow rate is what it should be.


----------



## mat311

Just finished tu put my rig inside my new pro m (acrylic windowed), added 2 120mm white spectres at the top, they are dead silent, but original 140 fans are a bit loud at 12v, need to regulate them.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mat311*
> 
> Just finished tu put my rig inside my new pro m (acrylic windowed), added 2 120mm white spectres at the top, they are dead silent, but original 140 fans are a bit loud at 12v, need to regulate them.


Looks very nice.

What Noc cooler is that and what fans are you using? Looks like a NH-D14, but you have the fan mounted differently than normal.

Your two white Spectres are likely raising the temp of air going into CPU cooler, meaning CPU temps will be warmer.








You would be better served returning them and getting another PH-F140SP for a second front intake.

Definitely use the included PWM _controlled_ fan hub for your 3-pin case fans. It requires PWM signal form CPU fan header and PSU power. Then it will control your case fans.

Alternately you could use system fan headers on motherboard directly to 2 or 3 fans at most on each one. All depends on what your motherboard fan control features are.

Removing unused PCIe back slot covers will also improve front to back airflow in lower half of case, thus allowing less of the GPU heated exhaust to go up into CPU cool air supply.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Your two white Spectres are likely raising the temp of air going into CPU cooler, meaning CPU temps will be warmer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You would be better served returning them and getting another PH-F140SP for a second front intake.


You forgot the LED strip.....


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> You forgot the LED strip.....










I'm having a very hard time getting my head around this 'LED lighting improves cooling and performance' thing.


----------



## mat311

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Looks very nice.
> 
> What Noc cooler is that and what fans are you using? Looks like a NH-D14, but you have the fan mounted differently than normal.
> 
> Your two white Spectres are likely raising the temp of air going into CPU cooler, meaning CPU temps will be warmer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You would be better served returning them and getting another PH-F140SP for a second front intake.
> 
> Definitely use the included PWM _controlled_ fan hub for your 3-pin case fans. It requires PWM signal form CPU fan header and PSU power. Then it will control your case fans.
> 
> Alternately you could use system fan headers on motherboard directly to 2 or 3 fans at most on each one. All depends on what your motherboard fan control features are.
> 
> Removing unused PCIe back slot covers will also improve front to back airflow in lower half of case, thus allowing less of the GPU heated exhaust to go up into CPU cool air supply.


Thanks for advices, I changed few things.

Never noticed that my d14 fans were inverted thanks ! (not sure it changes something
though)
Removed 5.25 bay, put 1 spectre at the front (lowering the 140mm) and took of the second spectre, looks cleaner imo.
I removed pciex slots too, but I dont like these holes







I'll put them back in place.
Also both 140mm are now on sysfans header, created fan curve from the bios it's MUCH more quiet now ! (spectre is still 12v).

If temps are not good, I'll replace the spectre with something more powerfull.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mat311*
> 
> Thanks for advices, I changed few things.
> 
> Never noticed that my d14 fans were inverted thanks ! (not sure it changes something
> though)
> Removed 5.25 bay, put 1 spectre at the front (lowering the 140mm) and took of the second spectre, looks cleaner imo.
> I removed pciex slots too, but I dont like these holes
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'll put them back in place.
> Also both 140mm are now on sysfans header, created fan curve from the bios it's MUCH more quiet now ! (spectre is still 12v).
> 
> If temps are not good, I'll replace the spectre with something more powerfull.


I agree, the cooler fan placement probably makes little to no difference.
Moving the back PH-F140SP to front would probably improve airflow.
Removing the PCIe slot covers usually lowers temps, but if temps are good it doesn't matter if they are in or out.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mat311*
> 
> Thanks for advices, I changed few things.
> 
> Never noticed that my d14 fans were inverted thanks ! (not sure it changes something
> though)
> Removed 5.25 bay, put 1 spectre at the front (lowering the 140mm) and took of the second spectre, looks cleaner imo.
> I removed pciex slots too, but I dont like these holes
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'll put them back in place.
> Also both 140mm are now on sysfans header, created fan curve from the bios it's MUCH more quiet now ! (spectre is still 12v).
> 
> If temps are not good, I'll replace the spectre with something more powerfull.


@doyll's suggestion of swapping the rear F140SP and the Spectre is a good one if you don't want to spend any money at all. The F140SP will move _substantially_ more air in the front of that case, while the Spectre can work freely in the rear, and the open top will help with the exhaust.


----------



## pez

I think we have some leftover screen door mesh, so I may take out my empty PCI slot covers and try that route, though I'm not seeing terrible temps at all







. Can't wait to see what my temps are like with the second 1080







.


----------



## Sazexa

So, I've found a way to be able to install two EK SE 360's into my case (Evolv ATX TG) without any real mods. I did kind of cheat a little bit, bit no mods. On the top I currently have a 360*26mm radiators, and, I do believe my 360*26mm in the front installation idea will work also.

I had to push the top mounted radiator as far back as possible. To do this, I removed the top panel of the case, and loosely installed the radiator on the removeable bracket, so it could slide forward or back. I put the bracket into it's top mount position, then slid it all the way to the case rear. Which is where I'll tighten it, then put the top cover back on. To mount the front radiator, and still have the inlets and outlets at on the top of the radiator (so air can escape the radiator easily), I actually switched locations with where the front intake fans mount and where the radiator mounts. This gave me the clearance needed to be able to put fittings on the front mounted radiator. Here's a quick couple of pictures.Sorry for the low quality, my camera on my phone is a bit damaged.

So, if I went with a 26mm thick radiator in the front, and mounted the top 360mm radiator as normal, this is the maximum clearance I can achieve, with the inlets on the rad towards the bottom of the case. This also will not work with two EK 360's, but only a 240mm rad, as the 360mm is too tall, and you can't slide in one of the radiators.



But what I did here was switch where the front fans and radiator would be mounted. Since the radiator is the same thickness as a fan (or 1mm more to be technical) here it is fitting in nicely. I used a 2x45degree fitting to squeeze between the two radiators, also, as seen here. A single 45-degree fitting (or maybe even 90 degree fitting) would likely work as well. It's not the most elegant solution, but it's a solution. I'm still trying to find a way to have the radiator in it's normal place, and the fans in their normal place too. But, there won't be enough clearance if I do anything else it seems. Also, with this particular radiator, I didn't need to use any special fittings for the other inlet on it, because it's offset from the top radiator and has plenty of clearance for just a simple compression fitting on it's own.



Next, I was able to check just how bad the flexing on my ASUS ROG RVE10 motherboard was. This motherboard is 272mm wide, and, the case only officially supports motherboards up to 272mm wide. I originally had left the rubber grommets on the side piece first, but they had to be removed for me to be able to really sit the board down nice and straight. I also had to remove the motherboard's backplate and LED piece. This kind of upsets me a bit, because it's only 8mm. If they had just made they case (and motherboard tray) another 10mm deeper from front to back, it would not have made the case significantly larger, but it would have GREATLY improved dual 360mm rad compatibility AND allowed for regular E-ATX motherboards to work without an issue. That's my one biggest complaint about the case, is that they didn't just make it 3/8-1/2" deeper front to back.

Some pictures "measuring" the flex. I'd definitely recommend using electrical tape to insulate that side of the board going along the angular piece, just as a precaution. Get the good stuff, that will stick for a long time, not the cheap crappy stuff. And remove the grommets, and you'll fit what basically looks flawlessly. I don't believe anything on the board touches, but again, electrical tape just to be sure.

This image makes it look a lot worse than it really is in real life. It basically doesn't flex here, as far as I can tell.



And this image, the grommets were installed. The grommets will make the motherboard flex, but, even with the grommets installed and the board flexing some, there was still space between the SATA data ports and the side of my graphics card, so they weren't touching.


----------



## PureBlackFire

^ I did say if you can mount the top rad as far back as possible.


----------



## Sazexa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PureBlackFire*
> 
> ^ I did say if you can mount the top rad as far back as possible.


The picture where the front rad is fitting, is with the top rad as far back as possible. It's touching the rear of the case. lol

And it still BARELY makes it. I think I might mount my rad upside down, and fill the case sideways, so no air bubbles get trapped.


----------



## PureBlackFire

do what you gotta to make it fit.


----------



## Testing12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sazexa*
> 
> Next, I was able to check just how bad the flexing on my ASUS ROG RVE10 motherboard was. This motherboard is 272mm wide, and, the case only officially supports motherboards up to 272mm wide.


You mean the Evolv ATX only officially supports motherboards up to 264mm wide.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sazexa*
> 
> I originally had left the rubber grommets on the side piece first, but they had to be removed for me to be able to really sit the board down nice and straight.


I figured that would help...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sazexa*
> 
> I also had to remove the motherboard's backplate and LED piece. This kind of upsets me a bit,


A BIT?! This seems a much bigger deal to me.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sazexa*
> 
> because it's only 8mm. If they had just made they case (and motherboard tray) another 10mm deeper from front to back, it would not have made the case significantly larger, but it would have GREATLY improved dual 360mm rad compatibility AND allowed for regular E-ATX motherboards to work without an issue. That's my one biggest complaint about the case, is that they didn't just make it 3/8-1/2" deeper front to back.


...killing two birds with one stone. I agree!

Thanks so much for the info and pics. At this point, I think I'm going to pass on a (approx.) $200 case that requires the compromises you've illuminated (especially when it requires modding a $600 mobo!).
Maybe Phanteks will release a future version with the added 10mm.

Good luck with your build. I hope it works out to be everything you hope for.


----------



## dmastin

Hey team.
Can anyone tell me about removing the top panel of my "Phanteks PH-ES515E_AG Enthoo EVOLV ATX Mid Tower Chassis Case, Antracite Gray"?
Is it a difficult or trivial process?
Can I slide the radiator tray and radiator out and have access to the screws that I assume are there or is it a more difficult process?
I am seriously considering modding the top if it's relatively easy to remove.
My crowded/awkward build does a a great job of keeping the cpu and gpu cool, but I feel heat is not moving efficiently out the top vents/spaces.
Thanks for any advice!


----------



## pez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmastin*
> 
> Hey team.
> Can anyone tell me about removing the top panel of my "Phanteks PH-ES515E_AG Enthoo EVOLV ATX Mid Tower Chassis Case, Antracite Gray"?
> Is it a difficult or trivial process?
> Can I slide the radiator tray and radiator out and have access to the screws that I assume are there or is it a more difficult process?
> I am seriously considering modding the top if it's relatively easy to remove.
> My crowded/awkward build does a a great job of keeping the cpu and gpu cool, but I feel heat is not moving efficiently out the top vents/spaces.
> Thanks for any advice!


Within the last 20 posts or so there's a picture posted a couple times. There's 2 screws in the front and 2 in the back that allow it to slide off I believe. The ATX model is actually easier than the ITX model in that aspect.


----------



## dmastin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pez*
> 
> Within the last 20 posts or so there's a picture posted a couple times. There's 2 screws in the front and 2 in the back that allow it to slide off I believe. The ATX model is actually easier than the ITX model in that aspect.


Ah, thank you sir, I see that now. I appreciate you directing my attention.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmastin*
> 
> Hey team.
> Can anyone tell me about removing the top panel of my "Phanteks PH-ES515E_AG Enthoo EVOLV ATX Mid Tower Chassis Case, Antracite Gray"?
> Is it a difficult or trivial process?
> Can I slide the radiator tray and radiator out and have access to the screws that I assume are there or is it a more difficult process?
> I am seriously considering modding the top if it's relatively easy to remove.
> My crowded/awkward build does a a great job of keeping the cpu and gpu cool, but I feel heat is not moving efficiently out the top vents/spaces.
> Thanks for any advice!


Massive overkill for a PSU. Your side SSD cables can be routed to the bottom hole
You really need to work on cleaning up the case. You have too many cables in front and better to move it towards back. Rotate the fans to have cables towards mobo.
Rear fan is not needed and can be removed.
Reason you not feeling enough exhaust on top, is you have not sealed the bracket.


----------



## pez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmastin*
> 
> Ah, thank you sir, I see that now. I appreciate you directing my attention.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> Massive overkill for a PSU. Your side SSD cables can be routed to the bottom hole
> You really need to work on cleaning up the case. You have too many cables in front and better to move it towards back. Rotate the fans to have cables towards mobo.
> Rear fan is not needed and can be removed.
> Reason you not feeling enough exhaust on top, is you have not sealed the bracket.


Yep, and this guy was less lazy than I^







.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> Massive overkill for a PSU. Your side SSD cables can be routed to the bottom hole
> You really need to work on cleaning up the case. You have too many cables in front and better to move it towards back. Rotate the fans to have cables towards mobo.
> Rear fan is not needed and can be removed.
> Reason you not feeling enough exhaust on top, is you have not sealed the bracket.


You failed to mention the mismatched fans for push/pull on a radiator that does not really benefit from push/pull. Losing the Noctuas would likely actually help the situation.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sazexa*
> 
> So, I've found a way to be able to install two EK SE 360's into my case (Evolv ATX TG) without any real mods. I did kind of cheat a little bit, bit no mods. On the top I currently have a 360*26mm radiators, and, I do believe my 360*26mm in the front installation idea will work also..........


While I commend you for the effort, as well as a very clean result, I did want to point something out to those who may want to follow suit. There have been a number of posts showing the dual 360mm SE rads in Evov ATX cases due to the fact that they are the only name brand rad that will work with dual 360mm without extensive modification. However, it really needs to be pointed out that you can achieve better performance without the headaches by simply using better rads in a 360mm+240mm configuration, and with the midplate the appearance is almost exactly the same.

For example -

@ 750 rpm: -HWL GTS 360 + 240 will dissipate 319W, dual 360mm SE only 313W


At 1300 rom, the GTS 360 + 240 will dissipate 484W, the dual 360mm SE only 469W


At 1850 rpm, the GTS 360 + 240 will dissipate 603W, the dual 360mm SE only 581W


The point being, you can get the same cooling and appearance without the headaches.


----------



## Sazexa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Testing12*
> 
> You mean the Evolv ATX only officially supports motherboards up to 264mm wide.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I figured that would help...
> A BIT?! This seems a much bigger deal to me.
> ...killing two birds with one stone. I agree!
> 
> Thanks so much for the info and pics. At this point, I think I'm going to pass on a (approx.) $200 case that requires the compromises you've illuminated (especially when it requires modding a $600 mobo!).
> Maybe Phanteks will release a future version with the added 10mm.
> 
> Good luck with your build. I hope it works out to be everything you hope for.


Yes, I mistyped lol. It doesn't bother me much because it's only for visuals, and the board functions oerfectly fine without it. It's no more of a "mod" than removing a heatsink, really. Tajes about three minutes to carefully install or remove.

But yeah, if phanteks just had a bit more room, I'd call it a flawless case for my needs.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> While I commend you for the effort, as well as a very clean result, I did want to point something out to those who may want to follow suit. There have been a number of posts showing the dual 360mm SE rads in Evov ATX cases due to the fact that they are the only name brand rad that will work with dual 360mm without extensive modification. However, it really needs to be pointed out that you can achieve better performance without the headaches by simply using better rads in a 360mm+240mm configuration, and with the midplate the appearance is almost exactly the same.
> 
> The point being, you can get the same cooling and appearance without the headaches.


Useful information for next time. I've already got my first 360 and thr second in the mail lol


----------



## dmastin

Is there any disadvantage to overspecing a PSU other than monetary savings? According to EVGA's Power Meter estimating tool 700 watts would be sufficient for what I have. If one had the financial reserves seems like a "too big" would allow for expandability and possibly be more reliable or cooler. Maybe it's the opposite?

Not sure I see any way to move cables from front the front toward the back. CPU and GPU power are going about where they have to be. Good suggestion on the SSD cables. I'll try that later today! Rotating the fans towards the mobo is also a good suggestion! This is my first build in 16 years and my first water cooling build ever. It's been running a couple of weeks now and I haven't tweaked anything and your suggestions are good ones.

Also, I have too much tubing. I was figuring and learning as I went along which isn't ideal, but was really fun. I went from Corsair cooling for CPU to nabbing a 1080 and wanting to water cool it such that I acquired a EKWB all in one cpu cooler which I added a prefilled 1080 water block. The quick disconnects are nice, but all the precut tubing leaves excess. Some 90 degree elbows would really help.

I realize the rear fan is obstructed such that it may be operating at 40% or so, but seems like it's helping exhaust the case. Is your point that if the top radiator is doing its job the rear fan is moot?

I was just educating myself last night regarding sealing the radiator bracket. I believe specifically I was reading about michael-ocn and his experiences. I'll be looking at this today as well, I hope.

And thanks for directing my attention to the digram/pic by doyll, very nice.


----------



## dmastin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> You failed to mention the mismatched fans for push/pull on a radiator that does not really benefit from push/pull. Losing the Noctuas would likely actually help the situation.


Thanks for the suggestion ciarlatano. The mismatch really stands out. As I accumulated the extra fans during the build I figured why not. It seems to me that fans likely perform differently depending on whether they are pushing or pulling such that one would needed to experiment with operating rpms of the push fans and pull fans to get the maximum flow. In other words, we're not actually able to assume that the best scenario is setting the push fans to the same rpm is the pull fans, right? If that's true, then having matched fans might make the process somewhat more straightforward, but isn't an empirically demonstrated push/pull truism. I can imagine settings where the Noctua fans are working against the EKWB fans such that I'd be better off without them, but seems unlikely if the Noctuas are "working" as hard or harder than the EKWB fans. It does occur to me, however, that a) getting the setting just right for a push/pull setup, whether matching or not, seems like an iffy proposition with marginal gains and b) losing the Noctua fans would reduce the overall case obstruction level and help to clear the rear fan somewhat. Finally, as I reread your statement I realize I may not have any idea what you are suggesting as you say I have a radiator that does not really benefit from push/pull. Thank you for your thoughts and advice.


----------



## eaglesfan398

I just got a phanteks evolv atx tg and I was wondering has anyone figured out the fan controller? I tried using it and it seamed all the fans just ran full power all the time making my computer really loud. Is there a way to fix this because I connected everything properly. Everything is plugged in and its on the right fan header on the motherboard but I can't seem to control it or add a curve. If no one has any ideas I guess i'll just have to make an arduino fan controller. Also what the best way for controlling all the rgb lights besides the case controller? Arduino?


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eaglesfan398*
> 
> I just got a phanteks evolv atx tg and I was wondering has anyone figured out the fan controller? I tried using it and it seamed all the fans just ran full power all the time making my computer really loud. Is there a way to fix this because I connected everything properly. Everything is plugged in and its on the right fan header on the motherboard but I can't seem to control it or add a curve. If no one has any ideas I guess i'll just have to make an arduino fan controller. Also what the best way for controlling all the rgb lights besides the case controller? Arduino?


It sounds like you have it connected to a voltage regulated header. What MB are you using, and which header are you connecting to?


----------



## Testing12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sazexa*
> 
> It doesn't bother me much because it's only for visuals, and the board functions oerfectly fine without it. It's no more of a "mod" than removing a heatsink, really. Tajes about three minutes to carefully install or remove.


What I was referring to was that the ASUS RVE10 costs ~$600. Part of that cost is for the side LED's and solid, albeit 1/2 backplate. If you're gonna go that far, why not get a Strix (savings of $262) or a Deluxe II (savings of $181)? I realize you're giving up other things as well with those boards, but... I don't know, for me $600 is a bunch of cash to spend on a motherboard. I don't want to have to 'take things off of it' just to make it fit a case, ya know?! That's me though, so... I guess for me, it'll be either the case or the board.


----------



## eaglesfan398

I am using a z97 mark 2 mobo from asus. I have the fan controller plugged into my cpu header.


----------



## Sazexa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Testing12*
> 
> What I was referring to was that the ASUS RVE10 costs ~$600. Part of that cost is for the side LED's and solid, albeit 1/2 backplate. If you're gonna go that far, why not get a Strix (savings of $262) or a Deluxe II (savings of $181)? I realize you're giving up other things as well with those boards, but... I don't know, for me $600 is a bunch of cash to spend on a motherboard. I don't want to have to 'take things off of it' just to make it fit a case, ya know?! That's me though, so... I guess for me, it'll be either the case or the board.


Well, as I said before: it's still 100% functional. Between LED strips used on the Aura header and the rest of the LED's on the board, there is already plenty of bling. I also want a monochromatic build for the core components. The Deluxe II has, although very minimal, blue accents (and one of tge translucent PCIe retention clips doesn't like up which bothers me a lot more than taking some LED's off my board), and the STRIX has permanent orange accents. Also, I didn't have to pay full price for the RVE10. If anything, the audio and 5.25" piece for a bay is the biggest waste of the RVE10 for me, as I already have a far superior external amp/DAC. Like I said, I made it fit with, for me anyways, small compromises. I'll keep the backplate in a box for if they ever update the case. But even if I do, it might not worth taking the loop/build apart just to have some more LED's when I'll ready have plenty.









If I were you though, and you're dead set on not compromising, I'd say choose the case, and get a different board. Most people can love with a compromised/"ugly" motherboard, but no body loves their build if it's in a case they don't like.


----------



## Testing12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sazexa*
> 
> Also, I didn't have to pay full price for the RVE10.


Lucky you!








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sazexa*
> 
> If I were you though, and you're dead set on not compromising, I'd say choose the case, and get a different board. Most people can love with a compromised/"ugly" motherboard, but no body loves their build if it's in a case they don't like.


I _really_ love the board though (sigh)... and I tend to keep my systems for quite a while (my current system is running a purchased new i7 2600K).
The Evolv ATX TG is just about perfect for me. On the other hand, I can't think of anything I'd change about the mobo.


----------



## Chopper1591

Woohoo.

Finally I received an shipping confirmation for the order of the parts I need to do the change to my Primo. Sad case is still waiting by itself in my storage for a few weeks now..

I noticed that I over ordered mayhems x1 clear concentrate though. Got 4 instead of 2. Oops









Will start the build log this week to show the goodies and my first try at rigid.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eaglesfan398*
> 
> I am using a z97 mark 2 mobo from asus. I have the fan controller plugged into my cpu header.


Ok, two things - first, make sure your CPU header is set for PWM in BIOS (page 3-7 in your manual - http://dlcdnet.asus.com/pub/ASUS/mb/LGA1150/SABERTOOTH_Z97_MARK2/E8886_sabertooth_z97_m2_WEB.pdf?_ga=1.266215431.962925399.1435973972). Second, install Thermal Radar and use the fan tuning. That should get you all straightened out.


----------



## eaglesfan398

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Ok, two things - first, make sure your CPU header is set for PWM in BIOS (page 3-7 in your manual - http://dlcdnet.asus.com/pub/ASUS/mb/LGA1150/SABERTOOTH_Z97_MARK2/E8886_sabertooth_z97_m2_WEB.pdf?_ga=1.266215431.962925399.1435973972). Second, install Thermal Radar and use the fan tuning. That should get you all straightened out.


Interesting. I thought the board would automatically detect that but I will try it when I get home! And will update you guys on what happens.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eaglesfan398*
> 
> Interesting. I thought the board would automatically detect that but I will try it when I get home! And will update you guys on what happens.


It should autodetect PWM/DC, but sometimes the hub throws it off. Also, the PWM range of the hub tends to be a bit different than most fans, so the tuning helps immensely to get the full rpm range. I have used the hubs on Z77, Z87 and Z97 Sabertooths, so I have experienced exactly what you are describing. Once you get it set up, Thermal Radar does a great job with the hub.


----------



## Hackslash

Someone with tempered glass version here?
How scratch proof and how sturdy is the glass?


----------



## Ubbidude

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eaglesfan398*
> 
> I am using a z97 mark 2 mobo from asus. I have the fan controller plugged into my cpu header.


Have you plugged in the sata power ot just the 4 pin or both?


----------



## eaglesfan398

I plugged them both in. Afraid it may draw to much power from the motherboard with the fans.


----------



## eaglesfan398

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Ok, two things - first, make sure your CPU header is set for PWM in BIOS (page 3-7 in your manual - http://dlcdnet.asus.com/pub/ASUS/mb/LGA1150/SABERTOOTH_Z97_MARK2/E8886_sabertooth_z97_m2_WEB.pdf?_ga=1.266215431.962925399.1435973972). Second, install Thermal Radar and use the fan tuning. That should get you all straightened out.


It worked thank you! +1 rep


----------



## eaglesfan398

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> It should autodetect PWM/DC, but sometimes the hub throws it off. Also, the PWM range of the hub tends to be a bit different than most fans, so the tuning helps immensely to get the full rpm range. I have used the hubs on Z77, Z87 and Z97 Sabertooths, so I have experienced exactly what you are describing. Once you get it set up, Thermal Radar does a great job with the hub.


How do you make it allow full rpm range?


----------



## dmfree88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hackslash*
> 
> Someone with tempered glass version here?
> How scratch proof and how sturdy is the glass?


I am curious about this as well. Anyone got pics of the Pro-M TG yet? Interested to see how it looks and hear if its worth upgrading from the acrylic window.

I am likely going to plasti-dip the interior of my case this weekend or next week. Also going to attempt 2 fan blades which could end up not working but will be fun to try. Will post pics of the process/results.


----------



## boredgunner

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hackslash*
> 
> Someone with tempered glass version here?
> How scratch proof and how sturdy is the glass?


I know one person who has one, and has had numerous Lian-Li cases and also the Silverstone FT04 for reference. He adores the build quality of the Evolv TG, especially the tempered glass windows which he says are remarkably scratch proof and well built like his Lian-Li PC-O5SX and PC-O8WX (yes he has all of these). Says the aluminum body panels are of fantastic quality too, and to top it off he says it's the best overall case he has ever built in. He is the one who convinced me to make it my next case when the time comes.


----------



## pez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> It should autodetect PWM/DC, but sometimes the hub throws it off. Also, the PWM range of the hub tends to be a bit different than most fans, so the tuning helps immensely to get the full rpm range. I have used the hubs on Z77, Z87 and Z97 Sabertooths, so I have experienced exactly what you are describing. Once you get it set up, Thermal Radar does a great job with the hub.


Is this the case if you're using 3 or 4 pin fans on the header? I was under the impression you'd have to set it to voltage based if you had 3-pin fans? Or does the controller itself see the PWM signal and convert it...? I'm using the Phanteks hub (Phanteks PH-PWHUB_01 PWM Fan Hub) vs the one in the TG, but I'm curious.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmfree88*
> 
> I am curious about this as well. Anyone got pics of the Pro-M TG yet? Interested to see how it looks and hear if its worth upgrading from the acrylic window.
> 
> I am likely going to plasti-dip the interior of my case this weekend or next week. Also going to attempt 2 fan blades which could end up not working but will be fun to try. Will post pics of the process/results.


I'm definitely curious as well. I'm hoping to be on them like white on rice once it's on the site. Going to try and order one as early as possible.

I'm so in love with the internal layout and the Evolv ITX, I almost want to get an Evolv ATX TG anyways







.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pez*
> 
> Is this the case if you're using 3 or 4 pin fans on the header? I was under the impression you'd have to set it to voltage based if you had 3-pin fans? Or does the controller itself see the PWM signal and convert it...? I'm using the Phanteks hub (Phanteks PH-PWHUB_01 PWM Fan Hub) vs the one in the TG, but I'm curious.


The hub uses a PWM signal input to control fans by voltage regulation. It requires a PWM signal to operate, it can not vary output speeds without it.


----------



## pez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> The hub uses a PWM signal input to control fans by voltage regulation. It requires a PWM signal to operate, it can not vary output speeds without it.


I think I was overthinking it. Took a gander at the manual on the Phanteks site and it set me straight







. I'm a bit sleep deprived and was not thinking too clearly about a few key aspects







.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pez*
> 
> Is this the case if you're using 3 or 4 pin fans on the header? I was under the impression you'd have to set it to voltage based if you had 3-pin fans? Or does the controller itself see the PWM signal and convert it...? I'm using the Phanteks hub (Phanteks PH-PWHUB_01 PWM Fan Hub) vs the one in the TG, but I'm curious.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> The hub uses a PWM signal input to control fans by voltage regulation. It requires a PWM signal to operate, it can not vary output speeds without it.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pez*
> 
> I think I was overthinking it. Took a gander at the manual on the Phanteks site and it set me straight
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . I'm a bit sleep deprived and was not thinking too clearly about a few key aspects
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


Not sure if all, but I do know some of the Phanteks PWM hubs can be used as variable voltage fan header splitters. The 3-pin variable voltage from mobo fan header regulates the fan speed as long as the PSU power lead is not plugged into PSU.

But like I said, I don't know if all versions allow this, and be careful to not use more than about 9-10 watt total fan wattage or you may damage the mobo fan header.


----------



## pez

I have mine going through the CPU_Fan and the SATA power is connected as it has 5 fans (2 Noctuas on the cooler + 3 140SPs). I know my BIOS has the ability to do both ways, but I honestly haven't sat down to tweak it. I've been doing quite a few hardware changes, and I'm so eager to play games in between that I'm not totally bothered by tweaking it perfectly. That said, the 3 140SPs aren't so loud that I'm going nuts







.


----------



## Alias

My case fans aren't coming on by connecting just the SATA connector for the Phanteks Evolv ATX TG. I thought it was supposed to be running at full speed if you powered it by SATA.

Reason I am not using the CPU header 2 on the MSI gaming 5 z97 motherboard is that l screwed up yesterday when I was transferring all CPU components to the case. Couldn't really see the top when connecting the NZXT X61 fan connector to the CPU header and I accidently connected the wrong 3 pin on the 4 pin header. There was a flash and smoke and seems like i fried the CPU FAN connector 1.

Hence connected the NZXT x61 fan connector to the CPU fan connector 2 and its working fine now. If i connect to the fried one, everything is fine but temps keep rising in BIOS to like 99'C. This gets solved when i boot into windows and temps normalize but Fan rpm still shows as 0. Anyway , that is a different issue altogether.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alias*
> 
> My case fans aren't coming on by connecting just the SATA connector for the Phanteks Evolv ATX TG. I thought it was supposed to be running at full speed if you powered it by SATA.
> 
> Reason I am not using the CPU header 2 on the MSI gaming 5 z97 motherboard is that l screwed up yesterday when I was transferring all CPU components to the case. Couldn't really see the top when connecting the NZXT X61 fan connector to the CPU header and I accidently connected the wrong 3 pin on the 4 pin header. There was a flash and smoke and seems like i fried the CPU FAN connector 1.
> 
> Hence connected the NZXT x61 fan connector to the CPU fan connector 2 and its working fine now. If i connect to the fried one, everything is fine but temps keep rising in BIOS to like 99'C. This gets solved when i boot into windows and temps normalize but Fan rpm still shows as 0. Anyway , that is a different issue altogether.


My PWM hubs don't work without the motherboard connected either.







Maybe some do, I don't know.

Sorry to hear about your problems.

If the CPU fan header was working fine, I don't think your temps wouldn't keep climbing. Me thinks you have more of a problem than you realize.


----------



## Alias

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> My PWM hubs don't work without the motherboard connected either.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Maybe some do, I don't know.
> 
> Sorry to hear about your problems.
> 
> If the CPU fan header was working fine, I don't think your temps wouldn't keep climbing. Me thinks you have more of a problem than you realize.


Well, the temp issue was solved by connecting the NZXT X61 fan connector to the motherboard CPU fan connector 2. Now its working fine and regulating it properly.

Since I lost that connector slot, I went ahead and connected the Phanteks hub connector to the SYSFAN 2 or SYSFAN 3 (tried both) as well as the SATA connector. But still the case fans dont seem work. Was hoping that was a solution here.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alias*
> 
> Well, the temp issue was solved by connecting the NZXT X61 fan connector to the motherboard CPU fan connector 2. Now its working fine and regulating it properly.
> 
> Since I lost that connector slot, I went ahead and connected the Phanteks hub connector to the SYSFAN 2 or SYSFAN 3 (tried both) as well as the SATA connector. But still the case fans dont seem work. Was hoping that was a solution here.


If you have a PWM splitter you could try putting both onto CPU fan 2 .. or just plug the fans into the sys fan headers. You can use a splitter and run 2 on each header no problem.


----------



## Alias

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> If you have a PWM splitter you could try putting both onto CPU fan 2 .. or just plug the fans into the sys fan headers. You can use a splitter and run 2 on each header no problem.


Thanks for the help so far!

Yeah a PWM splitter may be my next choice but I thought I could get the fans running by connecting it to the SYS Fan headers and powering it by the SATA module. But they arent running. Checked and rechecked but can't find a reason why they won't run if not connected to the CPU header.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alias*
> 
> Well, the temp issue was solved by connecting the NZXT X61 fan connector to the motherboard CPU fan connector 2. Now its working fine and regulating it properly.
> 
> Since I lost that connector slot, I went ahead and connected the Phanteks hub connector to the SYSFAN 2 or SYSFAN 3 (tried both) as well as the SATA connector. But still the case fans dont seem work. Was hoping that was a solution here.


This is an easy fix, since the X61 doesn't use PWM for anything, and the fan speeds are not controlled through the header at all.

First, plug the hub into CPU_2. That solves your hub issue.

Second, you need to power the X61. Preferably, get a 4-pin (or open 3-pin) to SATA adpater (https://www.amazon.com/BuyCheapCables%C2%AE-Molex-Connector-Adapter-3-pack/dp/B00M7GVDME/) and plug the X61 directly to the PSU. This also keeps those nasty Asetek pump faults from torching another header.

Alternately, you can plug the X61 to the SYS header, but *you must set that header to be at maximum at all times, no fan curve*.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alias*
> 
> Thanks for the help so far!
> 
> Yeah a PWM splitter may be my next choice but I thought I could get the fans running by connecting it to the SYS Fan headers and powering it by the SATA module. But they arent running. Checked and rechecked but can't find a reason why they won't run if not connected to the CPU header.


Your SYS headers are *not* PWM. They may be 4-pin, but they do not have a PWM signal. The hub will not work with them.


----------



## Alias

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> This is an easy fix, since the X61 doesn't use PWM for anything, and the fan speeds are not controlled through the header at all.
> 
> First, plug the hub into CPU_2. That solves your hub issue.
> 
> Second, you need to power the X61. Preferably, get a 4-pin (or open 3-pin) to SATA adpater (https://www.amazon.com/BuyCheapCables%C2%AE-Molex-Connector-Adapter-3-pack/dp/B00M7GVDME/) and plug the X61 directly to the PSU. This also keeps those nasty Asetek pump faults from torching another header.
> 
> Alternately, you can plug the X61 to the SYS header, but *you must set that header to be at maximum at all times, no fan curve*.


Awesome! That worked for me.

Connected the X61 to the SYS 1 header and its working fine now. Connected the hub into CPU_2 as you mentioned and its working great as well.

Do I still need to keep the SATA connected? Asking as the manual seems to say otherwise.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alias*
> 
> Awesome! That worked for me.
> 
> Connected the X61 to the SYS 1 header and its working fine now. Connected the hub into CPU_2 as you mentioned and its working great as well.
> 
> Do I still need to keep the SATA connected? Asking as the manual seems to say otherwise.


The SATA on the hub? If you are running more than two fans on the hub, you should probably keep it connected.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alias*
> 
> Awesome! That worked for me.
> 
> Connected the X61 to the SYS 1 header and its working fine now. Connected the hub into CPU_2 as you mentioned and its working great as well.
> 
> Do I still need to keep the SATA connected? Asking as the manual seems to say otherwise.


Sorry I didn't catch the X61 fan thing.








I don't use CLCs so didn\t even think about it.
That's why ciarlatano stalks me checking to make sure I give good advice.







Don't worry, I stalk him too.









I would keep the Sata powered by PSU. The hub will function on 12v from fan header, but it is best to use 12v from PSU. No chance of burning up a fan header that way.


----------



## dmastin

I've received lots of good advice, thank you.
I'm still considering cutting ventilation in the top and I've just discovered a local shop with a tool that I hope will do the job, see below.
Any thoughts or pattern suggestions?


----------



## 19DELTASNAFU

I need some help from you guys that own the Enthoo Luxe. I've been working on a mod/custom watercooled Luxe and I'm almost ready to button her up. I've forgotten how the wiring on the front panel (not the led connection on the front panel) and top panel goes. On the top panel I have where both the led strips are wired together and a small 4 pin drop down wire from that connection and I cannot figure out where that wire gets plugged in. Let's call that "Loose Wire One".

Then I have a long wire that is split into two connections, one says pwr and the other is labeled HDD LED, we'll call that "Loose Wire Two"

Then there is a third wire that I'm not sure has an relevance at all, you can see it laying on the chair beside the top panel. Here are some pics so maybe you guys can help me figure this one out. I took pics of the wiring but the card in my camera got hijacked for a cell phone. I has been almost a year since this build began so please bear with me for not remembering.

Notice the one empty 4 pin hole, is this where the wire from the top cover plugs in?? The wire is "loose wire two".
http://s117.photobucket.com/user/looker12/media/IMG_0654_zpsvpqno6y6.jpg.html

Better shot of front panel connections showing empty slot. Slot is label RBG+ CN3.
http://s117.photobucket.com/user/looker12/media/IMG_0653_zpspewbtcpj.jpg.html

Misc wire I found on workbench.
http://s117.photobucket.com/user/looker12/media/IMG_0652_zpstckumg44.jpg.html

Top panel showing "Loose Wire One"

http://s117.photobucket.com/user/looker12/media/IMG_0651_zpsvj20kjx5.jpg.html

Any and all help would be greatly appreciated.


----------



## riens

Hello guys. I wanna buy new game rig (i7-6700k +Noctua NH-D15). I need help with Case. What should I choose :Master Case 5 pro or Phanteks Enthoo Pro ATX Full Tower Case (or maby Luxe version). I dont care about design, i just need best aircool.


----------



## boredgunner

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *riens*
> 
> Hello guys. I wanna buy new game rig (i7-6700k +Noctua NH-D15). I need help with Case. What should I choose :Master Case 5 pro or Phanteks Enthoo Pro ATX Full Tower Case (or maby Luxe version). I dont care about design, i just need best aircool.


Phanteks build quality for the price is hard to beat, and they go for a very clean design. As long as you don't get a reference GPU, or a bad non-reference AMD card, airflow shouldn't be an issue either way. I'll be going from the Corsair Carbide Air 540, which has phenomenal airflow especially with my setup (2x Silverstone AP182 in the front) to a Phanteks Enthoo Evolv ATX Tempered Glass. The Evolv ATX Tempered Glass has my vote.


----------



## dlewbell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *riens*
> 
> Hello guys. I wanna buy new game rig (i7-6700k +Noctua NH-D15). I need help with Case. What should I choose :Master Case 5 pro or Phanteks Enthoo Pro ATX Full Tower Case (or maby Luxe version). I dont care about design, i just need best aircool.


I doubt there'd be much difference in cooling ability between the 2 of them. Really, your drive cage setup is going to be the biggest factor controlling airflow. If you pull the 5 1/4" bays & just use the bottom cage in the MasterCase 5, you'll have a direct path from intake to CPU. With the Enthoo Pro, there's no provided solution for mounting a fan in that location, though aftermarket options are available for mounting a 120mm fan in 3x5 1/4" bays. That said, the Enthoo Pro does allow for bottom intakes, or even a top intake if installed towards the front of the case. I really don't think you can go wrong with either option, but I've been so happy with my Enthoo Luxe, that I can't imagine recommending anything other than the Luxe or Pro for someone already considering it. Even better, the Enthoo Pro is currently available on Newegg for $70 after a $15 rebate. http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811854003&cm_re=phanteks_enthoo-_-11-854-003-_-Product


----------



## riens

Thanks guys its help me alot


----------



## Rainmaker91

I seem to have bumped in to yet another problem with my build, luckily it's all small ones but annoying none the less. Does anyone know why Phanteks put a limit on the amount of LEDs controlled by the button on the Enthoo Primo? Just seems unesessary to me, but I know it's there because not all my connected LED light up.


----------



## jsc1973

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dlewbell*
> 
> Even better, the Enthoo Pro is currently available on Newegg for $70 after a $15 rebate. http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811854003&cm_re=phanteks_enthoo-_-11-854-003-_-Product


That's a steal. I'd jump on that deal before they go out of stock.

Riens, you won't find a better case at $70. I got mine about a month and a half ago (in part on dlewbell's recommendation) and have been very happy with it.


----------



## Alias

Thanks to the help on this thread I got my fan hub issues resolved and despite a non working CPU header! Thank you guys again!









My thoughts on the Evolve ATX TG case coming from a H440. Temperatures are near similar on the CPU. Build quality is fantastic and the attention to detail is astounding.

Few questions.

1. Is the top removeable?
2. Where can we get extra SSD snap brackets to purchase?


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alias*
> 
> Thanks to the help on this thread I got my fan hub issues resolved and despite a non working CPU header! Thank you guys again!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My thoughts on the Evolve ATX TG case coming from a H440. Temperatures are near similar on the CPU. Build quality is fantastic and the attention to detail is astounding.
> 
> Few questions.
> 
> 1. Is the top removeable?
> 2. Where can we get extra SSD snap brackets to purchase?


I think phanteks sells extra SSD brackets, and I think even the double brackets from the Primo would fit in the Evolve if I remember correctly (don't quote me on that one though).


----------



## Alias

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> I think phanteks sells extra SSD brackets, and I think even the double brackets from the Primo would fit in the Evolve if I remember correctly (don't quote me on that one though).


It does say specifically for Enthoo series though.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817987001


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alias*
> 
> It does say specifically for Enthoo series though.
> 
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817987001


yeah, I see that it does that. http://www.phanteks.com/PH-SDBKT.html

If someone with an enthoo case could measure teh hole distance on these then we could compare it to the ones used in the Evolv cases. You could also just contact Phanteks directly.


----------



## Sazexa

So just a small update to the 2x360mm rad build I'v
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> yeah, I see that it does that. http://www.phanteks.com/PH-SDBKT.html
> 
> If someone with an enthoo case could measure teh hole distance on these then we could compare it to the ones used in the Evolv cases. You could also just contact Phanteks directly.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alias*
> 
> It does say specifically for Enthoo series though.
> 
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817987001


I just got this in to mount my 3.5" HDD. It uses the same mounting points/patterns as the SSD bracket. Since it works in my Evolv ATX, and listed to work in the Enthoo cases, I'd say we can all assume the SSD brackets are universal as well across Enthoo and Evolv.


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alias*
> 
> Thanks to the help on this thread I got my fan hub issues resolved and despite a non working CPU header! Thank you guys again!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My thoughts on the Evolve ATX TG case coming from a H440. Temperatures are near similar on the CPU. Build quality is fantastic and the attention to detail is astounding.
> 
> Few questions.
> 
> 1. Is the top removeable?
> 2. Where can we get extra SSD snap brackets to purchase?


Yes the top is removable, if you are in the US http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817987001&cm_re=Phanteks_ssd_bracket-_-17-987-001-_-Product


----------



## dmfree88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alias*
> 
> It does say specifically for Enthoo series though.
> 
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817987001


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> yeah, I see that it does that. http://www.phanteks.com/PH-SDBKT.html
> 
> If someone with an enthoo case could measure teh hole distance on these then we could compare it to the ones used in the Evolv cases. You could also just contact Phanteks directly.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sazexa*
> 
> Since it works in my Evolv ATX, and listed to work in the Enthoo cases, I'd say we can all assume the SSD brackets are universal as well across Enthoo and Evolv.


Just FYI all of the current lineup aside from the p400/p400s are considered Enthoo cases. Evolv is an Enthoo. Enthoo is not a case itself it is the series. Luxe/Pro/Mini/Primo/Evolv etc. are all in the Enthoo series. You can see the whole lineup in the product menu on the Phanteks website


----------



## Testing12

Sorry, I was too slow and dmfree88 beat me to it.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *riens*
> 
> Hello guys. I wanna buy new game rig (i7-6700k +Noctua NH-D15). I need help with Case. What should I choose :Master Case 5 pro or Phanteks Enthoo Pro ATX Full Tower Case (or maby Luxe version). I dont care about design, i just need best aircool.


Some other too look at is the Pro M Acrylic and P400 Silent Window. Both of these provide very good airflow without having any HDD cages block front intake.
While keeping to a lower price point.


----------



## dmfree88

http://www.phanteks.com/PH-GB1080.html

Is this a first for Phanteks? Looks pretty sweet!


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alias*
> 
> Thanks to the help on this thread I got my fan hub issues resolved and despite a non working CPU header! Thank you guys again!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My thoughts on the Evolve ATX TG case coming from a H440. Temperatures are near similar on the CPU. Build quality is fantastic and the attention to detail is astounding.
> 
> Few questions.
> 
> 1. Is the top removeable?
> 2. Where can we get extra SSD snap brackets to purchase?


Opening post in thread had link to this drawing showing how to remove top on Evolv ATX. I'm pretty sure the Evolv ATX TG is the same.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmfree88*
> 
> http://www.phanteks.com/PH-GB1080.html
> 
> Is this a first for Phanteks? Looks pretty sweet!


Indeed.
Phanteks announced their GPU waterblocks at Computex last month.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Indeed.
> Phanteks announced their GPU waterblocks at Computex last month.


any ideas on price point?


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> any ideas on price point?


I haven't seen anything yet. Hopefully they will do some sort of introductory offer on the first release. Well I can dream can't I|?


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> any ideas on price point?


I believe I saw $139 retail.


----------



## Faster_is_better

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> I seem to have bumped in to yet another problem with my build, luckily it's all small ones but annoying none the less. Does anyone know why Phanteks put a limit on the amount of LEDs controlled by the button on the Enthoo Primo? Just seems unesessary to me, but I know it's there because not all my connected LED light up.


Are you talking about the 2 extra led plugs? Maybe one of your strips is burned out partially? As far as I know the only limit for that would be the sata power connector's power draw.


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Faster_is_better*
> 
> Are you talking about the 2 extra led plugs? Maybe one of your strips is burned out partially? As far as I know the only limit for that would be the sata power connector's power draw.


I'm refering to the Molex that you can use to hook up your LED strips to the Phanteks LED button (the one that you use to turn on and off the LEDs on the outside of the case). It says something about it being limited to a certain aamount of individual LEDs, which im guessing refers to a set amount of current that the curcuit can handle. The LEDs work fine, but I might have been a bit unlucky with my soldering job, so I'll check it later to see if I can power them all on again using a direct 12v molex from the PSU.


----------



## TachyonicBow

Here's my Evolv ITX, modded to fit my mATX rig! (apologies for the phone-camera images :c )





I call it Blackjack - I'm going to post a full build log at some point but thought I'd give you guys a sneak-peak.








Defintely a tight fit, but very enjoyable to mod this case - plus I still have the possibility of a multi-GPU setup with some risers and creativity!
Criticism welcome, bearing in mind that she's nowhere near finished.


----------



## Sazexa

So, I'm well into working on my Evolv ATX TG. Some photos I'd thought I'd share to hopefully help some.

This is the ASUS Rampage V Edition 10 sitting in the case right now.


With the removal of the backplate for the motherboard, which has some LED's built into it, and the rubber grommets from this angular piece in the case, I was able to mount the board with no visible flex. I added a strip going from top-to-bottom along the back of the board of electrical/vinyl tape, to insulate it. I don't think it was necessary, but just did it as a precautionary step. Also, you can put a 24-pin power cable through the remainder of the exposed cable hole, with some fancy maneuvering. This shot also gives you an idea of RAM height compatibility. There aren't too many memory modules bigger than these Corsair Dominator Platinums, and they have plenty of clearance to a 120*_x_ radiator.


The radiator on the top is an EK SE 360 (360mm*26mm), pushed all the way to the rear of the case. The front radiator I was testing length/fitment with, was my old EK PE 240 (240*38mm). So, if I place my radiator outlets for the front radiator at the bottom, I can actually fit a 360*38mm (EK PE 360) radiator in the front. Which is probably what will happen.


Here I did a quick mock-up of where I'll mount my pump/reservoir combo, to make sure it'll fit.




Lastly, even though I lose the 2x 3.5" HDD cage, I bought Phantek's 3.5" adapter and put the HDD in the basement.


----------



## PureBlackFire

^ if I may ask, could you take a pic of the back of the case straight on with the HDD mounted down there? I wanna see how far back it is from the front of the case.


----------



## paskowitz

I ignored the HDD mount and just used this stuff plus some neoprene for sound/vibration dampening. Added bonus of letting me install two (almost 3) HDDs at the bottom.


----------



## dmastin

I've decided to take this picture to the fabricator as inspiration.
Pic from a mod a primo at http://mnpctech.com/phanteks-case-mods/phanteks-enthoo-primo-top-billet-fan-grill-cover.html
Any thoughts?


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmastin*
> 
> I've decided to take this picture to the fabricator as inspiration.
> Pic from a mod a primo at http://mnpctech.com/phanteks-case-mods/phanteks-enthoo-primo-top-billet-fan-grill-cover.html
> Any thoughts?


Bill does very nice work. His accessories and mods are if not the very best, among the very best and customer support is 2nd to none. I've known him for years now and have heard lots of praise for his work and how helpful he is .. never seen or heard a single complaint.


----------



## mat311

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> I agree, the cooler fan placement probably makes little to no difference.
> Moving the back PH-F140SP to front would probably improve airflow.
> Removing the PCIe slot covers usually lowers temps, but if temps are good it doesn't matter if they are in or out.


I did it and indeed temps are slightly better now.
But I don't like these spectres, both make little friction noise (it's light, but annoys me).
I'll buy another PH-F140SP insteed.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mat311*
> 
> I did it and indeed temps are slightly better now.
> But I don't like these spectres, both make little friction noise (it's light, but annoys me).
> I'll buy another PH-F140SP insteed.


Sounds like a plan. Please post up when you get it installed and let us know your thoughts.
You could try the 3rd PH-F140SP as bottom intake if case has bottom vent in front of PSU (your case is not spec'ed in rig specs)

Your comment about the Spectres reminds me how often people install new fans, rave about how great they are, then after a few days or a week decided they are not near as nice as they at first thought. This is why I always not only test the fans flow / cooling ability, but use them for a few weeks in one of my daily use systems to see if the first impression is accurate versus what I think after a few weeks of living with them.
Kinda like meeting someone and being really impressed, take them home and can't stand them a week later.


----------



## pez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sazexa*
> 
> So, I'm well into working on my Evolv ATX TG. Some photos I'd thought I'd share to hopefully help some.
> 
> This is the ASUS Rampage V Edition 10 sitting in the case right now.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the removal of the backplate for the motherboard, which has some LED's built into it, and the rubber grommets from this angular piece in the case, I was able to mount the board with no visible flex. I added a strip going from top-to-bottom along the back of the board of electrical/vinyl tape, to insulate it. I don't think it was necessary, but just did it as a precautionary step. Also, you can put a 24-pin power cable through the remainder of the exposed cable hole, with some fancy maneuvering. This shot also gives you an idea of RAM height compatibility. There aren't too many memory modules bigger than these Corsair Dominator Platinums, and they have plenty of clearance to a 120*_x_ radiator.
> 
> 
> The radiator on the top is an EK SE 360 (360mm*26mm), pushed all the way to the rear of the case. The front radiator I was testing length/fitment with, was my old EK PE 240 (240*38mm). So, if I place my radiator outlets for the front radiator at the bottom, I can actually fit a 360*38mm (EK PE 360) radiator in the front. Which is probably what will happen.
> 
> 
> Here I did a quick mock-up of where I'll mount my pump/reservoir combo, to make sure it'll fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lastly, even though I lose the 2x 3.5" HDD cage, I bought Phantek's 3.5" adapter and put the HDD in the basement.


doyll you should append this to the OP since we get quite a few questions about these boards and the Pro M/Evolv ATX in here







.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pez*
> 
> doyll you should append this to the OP since we get quite a few questions about these boards and the Pro M/Evolv ATX in here
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


It's a nicely done build and I could add a link in OP, but the images of mobo fit is not really detailed enough.
Besides, few bother to look at OP and OCN search lacks features needed to search out specific information. I'm more than willing to try and improve our Phanteks case database so people can find what they need, but after years of writing and making databases about things like airflow and how to set it up, fans and how they perform, etc, and seeing how rarely they are accessed without posting link to specific post I've kinda given up.








Most peeps don't try to find info to answer their questions .. instead they post a question and expect someone else to give them the answers.


----------



## pez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> It's a nicely done build and I could add a link in OP, but the images of mobo fit is not really detailed enough.
> Besides, few bother to look at OP and OCN search lacks features needed to search out specific information. I'm more than willing to try and improve our Phanteks case database so people can find what they need, but after years of writing and making databases about things like airflow and how to set it up, fans and how they perform, etc, and seeing how rarely they are accessed without posting link to specific post I've kinda given up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Most peeps don't try to find info to answer their questions .. instead they post a question and expect someone else to give them the answers.


But isn't that what this forum is for







. I can't say I'm truly innocent of that, though







.

I just mentioned it for more of a reference, so at least those who do know where it is can go to the OP and then link it a bit easier. It can at least open the option up to users to PM that user directly for more info, questions, etc.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pez*
> 
> But isn't that what this forum is for
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . I can't say I'm truly innocent of that, though
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> I just mentioned it for more of a reference, so at least those who do know where it is can go to the OP and then link it a bit easier. It can at least open the option up to users to PM that user directly for more info, questions, etc.


If Sazexa makes us a detailed tutorial I would put it in OP.
As it is a fuzzy pic doesn't really show or explanation is sketchy.


----------



## Sazexa

I'll make a build log woth pictures documenting the fitting of both radiators and the motherboard.

I'll try and get that done before the weekend.


----------



## doyll

On another not, just received shipping notice on my Enthoo Mini XL DL!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sazexa*
> 
> I'll make a build log woth pictures documenting the fitting of both radiators and the motherboard.
> 
> I'll try and get that done before the weekend.


No rush here. Just need detailed pics and text of exactly what you did to fit the motherboard.


----------



## pez

DL or DS?


----------



## Bill Owen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmastin*
> 
> I've decided to take this picture to the fabricator as inspiration.
> Pic from a mod a primo at http://mnpctech.com/phanteks-case-mods/phanteks-enthoo-primo-top-billet-fan-grill-cover.html
> Any thoughts?


We cnc milled it from 3/4" sheet of aluminum, the tabs are milling intom backside, so it snaps into place in the factory clip... the cost reflects the mill time










Let me know what they quote you. That billet enthoo primo cover was "one-off" for a customer for $210, but that cost included drawing time..... I thought about doing a retail production run @ $169.95 apiece if there was enough interest...

waves @Doyll, Thanks buddy!


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bill Owen*
> 
> We cnc milled it from 3/4" sheet of aluminum, the tabs are milling intom backside, so it snaps into place in the factory clip... the cost reflects the mill time
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Let me know what they quote you. That billet enthoo primo cover was "one-off" for a customer for $210, but that cost included drawing time..... I thought about doing a retail production run @ $169.95 apiece if there was enough interest...
> 
> waves @Doyll, Thanks buddy!


A chunk of billet aluminum that size is not cheap! And that is a lot of machining time to change a big block into detailed grill with push clip tabs!

Shucks Bill, didn't do anything but tell the truth.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pez*
> 
> DL or DS?


Sorry. DS








Just arrived so am going to open the box. Now I have to at least buy motherboards. Only have mATX for 6700k and no ITX available for my older i7 920 / 980X chips.


----------



## nycgtr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bill Owen*
> 
> We cnc milled it from 3/4" sheet of aluminum, the tabs are milling intom backside, so it snaps into place in the factory clip... the cost reflects the mill time
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Let me know what they quote you. That billet enthoo primo cover was "one-off" for a customer for $210, but that cost included drawing time..... I thought about doing a retail production run @ $169.95 apiece if there was enough interest...
> 
> waves @Doyll, Thanks buddy!


I think a lot of people would be interested in buying a side panel that doesn't have the limitations of the bottom bracket and 140mm fans. I almost bought one until I realized my bottom rad was gonna be a problem. Even a modified side window that was clear and one piece based off the stock door would be great to see.


----------



## dmastin

Hi Bill,
I have a Phanteks Enthoo EVOLV ATX Mid Tower and was looking at your piece as an inspiration for cutting holes in the top of my Evolv case. Turns out the machine shop I was talking to can only cut flat sheets of metal. I really want multiple vents cut with a finished look (see below; beyond what I can do with a dremel tool). I suppose I could ship the top off to a computer controlled laser cutter. Your top looks great, but is intended for a primo case, of course..



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> A chunk of billet aluminum that size is not cheap! And that is a lot of machining time to change a big block into detailed grill with push clip tabs!
> 
> Shucks Bill, didn't do anything but tell the truth.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bill Owen*
> 
> We cnc milled it from 3/4" sheet of aluminum, the tabs are milling intom backside, so it snaps into place in the factory clip... the cost reflects the mill time
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Let me know what they quote you. That billet enthoo primo cover was "one-off" for a customer for $210, but that cost included drawing time..... I thought about doing a retail production run @ $169.95 apiece if there was enough interest...
> 
> waves @Doyll, Thanks buddy!


----------



## dmastin

I wonder if this might be my solution:


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bill Owen*
> 
> We cnc milled it from 3/4" sheet of aluminum, the tabs are milling intom backside, so it snaps into place in the factory clip... the cost reflects the mill time
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Let me know what they quote you. That billet enthoo primo cover was "one-off" for a customer for $210, but that cost included drawing time..... I thought about doing a retail production run @ $169.95 apiece if there was enough interest...
> 
> waves @Doyll, Thanks buddy!


----------



## dmastin

Do y'all think the silver would match the color I have, Antracite Gray, or is there a way to color polished aluminum to match?


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmastin*
> 
> Do y'all think the silver would match the color I have, Antracite Gray, or is there a way to color polished aluminum to match?


Bill, you need to answer this.


----------



## pez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Sorry. DS
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just arrived so am going to open the box. Now I have to at least buy motherboards. Only have mATX for 6700k and no ITX available for my older i7 920 / 980X chips.


Haha no worries. I was wondering if there was case revealed at Computex that I didn't see







. I was thinking DL may have been termed for 'large' as in ATX so I could get excited and put my two builds into one







.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pez*
> 
> Haha no worries. I was wondering if there was case revealed at Computex that I didn't see
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . I was thinking DL may have been termed for 'large' as in ATX so I could get excited and put my two builds into one
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


Enthoo Mini XL is big enough to fit an ATX in no problem. All that would be needed ATX motherboard tray and back configuration.

I'm going to have to look at it closer, but I think a E-ATX would fit nicely.

Being 260mm wide, cable management and HDD / SSD mounting could be done between motherboard tray and side in about 70mm of space and still have 170mm CPU clearance. Out of the box now it has 215mm CPU clearance for mATX and 33mm of space behind tray for cable and ssd mounting. .. that is 40mm more than needed so 33mm + 40mm = 73mm behind mobo tray.

Have to admit I'm tempted to forget dual system and mode it for EATX (305x330mm) in a cas with a total size of 260mm x 540mm x 480mm (W x H x D).

Just need to source a EATX motherboard tray and back panel.









Maybe @Bill Owen will drop back to discuss his Enthoo Primo top and possible Evolv venting grills and give me a few suggestions.


----------



## Anon9000

Hi,

iam owning a Phanteks Enthoo Luxe and use it with an Asus Board + LED Strip. But recently i got problems with the color. Instead of blue i got 4 different purble. And yellow is more green than yellow. Any advices? The case is about two weeks old


----------



## viperguy212

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anon9000*
> 
> Hi,
> 
> iam owning a Phanteks Enthoo Luxe and use it with an Asus Board + LED Strip. But recently i got problems with the color. Instead of blue i got 4 different purble. And yellow is more green than yellow. Any advices? The case is about two weeks old


I'd just double check your LED connections as when RGB leads touch they start to form strange color combos.


----------



## Anon9000

Can you explain that? Do you mean when the cables touch? The color of the LED Strip and the case itself is wrong, the color on the mainboard is correct.


----------



## Malik

*grEEN*


----------



## dlewbell

@Malik That looks great. I love my Luxe, but that makes me second guess my decision. Of course, it also looks like you could've fit that build in a case half the size of the Primo.


----------



## Sazexa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> On another not, just received shipping notice on my Enthoo Mini XL DL!
> No rush here. Just need detailed pics and text of exactly what you did to fit the motherboard.


Of course. I may omit the step of removing the backplate and LED piece as it's a bit specific to my motherboard.

Also, I'm going to take a little spin on the "tin-foil" mod that I've see posted a few times, to try and block out heat. I'm going to put sound dampening foam (with the sound-dampening side face-down,) and use that perhaps in addition with tinfoil, to keep out extra heat AND possibly help sound proof the case some more. I may add some in other areas, as well.


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Malik*
> 
> *grEEN*
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Man that looks great, but man o man is it green.


----------



## Malik

Toxic green


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Has anyone modded the P400 psu shroud to allow pcie cables to go though like the nzxt S340.
Thinking of doing it to mine when I get it, with 2 round grommet. Each one placed in two areas for different gpu. As I have GTX670, with plug being near center.


----------



## 19DELTASNAFU

FINALLY got the Enthoo Luxe finished today. Just have a few minor details and one LOUD Bitphoenix fan I've got to replace. EK fans are dead silent.

http://s117.photobucket.com/user/looker12/media/IMG_0660_zpsglazc6pm.jpg.html

http://s117.photobucket.com/user/looker12/media/IMG_0658_zps3ug8h4c8.jpg.html

http://s117.photobucket.com/user/looker12/media/IMG_0657_zps3a2uegqg.jpg.html


----------



## Testing12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sazexa*
> 
> I'm going to take a little spin on the "tin-foil" mod that I've see posted a few times, to try and block out heat. I'm going to put sound dampening foam (with the sound-dampening side face-down,) and use that perhaps in addition with tinfoil, to keep out extra heat AND possibly help sound proof the case some more. I may add some in other areas, as well.


I've not seen/read about this and a search for 'tin-foil' and 'tinfoil' comes up empty (your post actually comes up, but that's it).
Can you point me in the right direction for further info on this?
Thanks...


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *19DELTASNAFU*
> 
> FINALLY got the Enthoo Luxe finished today. Just have a few minor details and one LOUD Bitphoenix fan I've got to replace. EK fans are dead silent.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://s117.photobucket.com/user/looker12/media/IMG_0660_zpsglazc6pm.jpg.html
> 
> http://s117.photobucket.com/user/looker12/media/IMG_0658_zps3ug8h4c8.jpg.html
> 
> http://s117.photobucket.com/user/looker12/media/IMG_0657_zps3a2uegqg.jpg.html


Man that is just sick looking, great job.


----------



## 19DELTASNAFU

Thanks rfarmer.


----------



## Sazexa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Testing12*
> 
> I've not seen/read about this and a search for 'tin-foil' and 'tinfoil' comes up empty (your post actually comes up, but that's it).
> Can you point me in the right direction for further info on this?
> Thanks...


See here:


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Opening post in thread had link to this drawing showing how to remove top on Evolv ATX. I'm pretty sure the Evolv ATX TG is the same.






I've seen a couple people basically use tinfoil as insulation (regarding the top radiator mount bracket), on here and other sites. lol


----------



## michael-ocn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *19DELTASNAFU*
> 
> FINALLY got the Enthoo Luxe finished today. Just have a few minor details and one LOUD Bitphoenix fan I've got to replace. EK fans are dead silent.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://s117.photobucket.com/user/looker12/media/IMG_0660_zpsglazc6pm.jpg.html
> 
> http://s117.photobucket.com/user/looker12/media/IMG_0658_zps3ug8h4c8.jpg.html
> 
> http://s117.photobucket.com/user/looker12/media/IMG_0657_zps3a2uegqg.jpg.html


Very cool, it's like an irridescent deep sea creature luxe


----------



## Testing12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sazexa*
> 
> See here:
> 
> I've seen a couple people basically use tinfoil as insulation (regarding the top radiator mount bracket), on here and other sites. lol


Thanks, I've seen that graphic before here several times and thought it was very informative and well done. doyll, is that your creation?
Didn't know people used tinfoil to block the openings though.
Thanks for the heads up.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sazexa*
> 
> Of course. I may omit the step of removing the backplate and LED piece as it's a bit specific to my motherboard.
> 
> Also, I'm going to take a little spin on the "tin-foil" mod that I've see posted a few times, to try and block out heat. I'm going to put sound dampening foam (with the sound-dampening side face-down,) and use that perhaps in addition with tinfoil, to keep out extra heat AND possibly help sound proof the case some more. I may add some in other areas, as well.


Please include the information and images about removing the backplatesand LED piece. The object of the guide to explain how to fit the motherboard like yours into the Enthoo Evolv ATX and Enthoo Pro / Luxe cases using the same motherboard tray design.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *19DELTASNAFU*
> 
> FINALLY got the Enthoo Luxe finished today. Just have a few minor details and one LOUD Bitphoenix fan I've got to replace. EK fans are dead silent.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://s117.photobucket.com/user/looker12/media/IMG_0660_zpsglazc6pm.jpg.html
> 
> http://s117.photobucket.com/user/looker12/media/IMG_0658_zps3ug8h4c8.jpg.html
> 
> http://s117.photobucket.com/user/looker12/media/IMG_0657_zps3a2uegqg.jpg.html


Very well done!
Love the square line layout of your piping.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sazexa*
> 
> See here:
> 
> I've seen a couple people basically use tinfoil as insulation (regarding the top radiator mount bracket), on here and other sites. lol


Honestly I doubt that tinfoil and sound dampening materials make enough difference to be noticed. The foil idea is most likely not scientifically sound. I'm guessing the people doing it think it's working like a 'space blanket' / emergency blanket concept developed in the 1970s. They use Mylar, not 'tin foil'.

Heated air from radiator flowing down through the holes is radiator mounting tray is the problem, not the temperature difference / radiant heat transfer.

Noise dampening is not needed because there is not a lot of noise radiating up thorough these holes and the thick aluminum top deflects / baffles what little noise is coming up from below.

Stopping the heated air out of radiator from flowing down through the holes an heating up the air below is what needs to be accomplished, not heat or noise radiation.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Testing12*
> 
> Thanks, I've seen that graphic before here several times and thought it was very informative and well done. doyll, is that your creation?
> Didn't know people used tinfoil to block the openings though.
> Thanks for the heads up.


Just copied some images and added the text. Name is in lower right corner, is give-away.


----------



## TachyonicBow

Started sanding and spraying my Evolv ITX/mATX, wondering if anyone has any experience with the finish on these cases and paintjobs thereafter?


----------



## der-kaiser

For those that owns the Evolv ATX tempered glass case, would you recommend replacing the two stock intakes at the front with a pair of PH-F140XP fans given that they function in PWM?

Will also be replacing the exhaust for a Corsair AF140 Quiet Ediition fan because of colour rings. ?

Is the above set up suitable in terms of getting enough air into the case and achieving positive air pressure? Running a be quiet shadow rock slim air cooler. Additionally I could still install 2 more fans at the top if that helps. Any advice is welcomed.


----------



## paskowitz

Almost there...



Still have to do some cable management and get acrylic covers for the PSU and the vertical panel with the HDD mounts. Also considering something to train/hold the bottom tube run so it is straighter.


----------



## dlewbell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *der-kaiser*
> 
> For those that owns the Evolv ATX tempered glass case, would you recommend replacing the two stock intakes at the front with a pair of PH-F140XP fans given that they function in PWM?
> 
> Will also be replacing the exhaust for a Corsair AF140 Quiet Ediition fan because of colour rings. ?
> 
> Is the above set up suitable in terms of getting enough air into the case and achieving positive air pressure? Running a be quiet shadow rock slim air cooler. Additionally I could still install 2 more fans at the top if that helps. Any advice is welcomed.


I don't see much point in swapping out the front fans for PWM versions of the same fan. The PH-F140SP has a pretty wide operating range with voltage control, & most motherboards will only have 1 or 2 PWM headers vs 3+ voltage control headers anyway. That just seems like a waste of $40, unless you have plans for the stock fans elsewhere. I also wouldn't be in a hurry to swap the stock rear fan for the AF140 either, but I can understand wanting a certain look. Overall, I would expect that 2 intakes & 1 exhaust will work reasonably well with your setup, though of course what GPU you use will also have an effect.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *der-kaiser*
> 
> For those that owns the Evolv ATX tempered glass case, would you recommend replacing the two stock intakes at the front with a pair of PH-F140XP fans given that they function in PWM?
> 
> Will also be replacing the exhaust for a Corsair AF140 Quiet Ediition fan because of colour rings. ?
> 
> Is the above set up suitable in terms of getting enough air into the case and achieving positive air pressure? Running a be quiet shadow rock slim air cooler. Additionally I could still install 2 more fans at the top if that helps. Any advice is welcomed.


Pretty much what dlewbell said.









If you didn't already have PH-F140SP and PWM controlled fan hub for variable voltage fans then the PH-F140XP would be a good choice. But dong it now is just spending money for no good reason in our opinions. If you have to use the money, send it to one of use. I need an ITX system to build new Enthoo Mini XL DS case with.















Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> Almost there...
> 
> 
> 
> Still have to do some cable management and get acrylic covers for the PSU and the vertical panel with the HDD mounts. Also considering something to train/hold the bottom tube run so it is straighter.


Looking very nice!


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> Almost there...
> 
> 
> 
> Still have to do some cable management and get acrylic covers for the PSU and the vertical panel with the HDD mounts. Also considering something to train/hold the bottom tube run so it is straighter.


I like the way you have the H240-X oriented and the tubing runs. Very clean and well thought out.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *der-kaiser*
> 
> For those that owns the Evolv ATX tempered glass case, would you recommend replacing the two stock intakes at the front with a pair of PH-F140XP fans given that they function in PWM?
> 
> Will also be replacing the exhaust for a Corsair AF140 Quiet Ediition fan because of colour rings. ?
> 
> Is the above set up suitable in terms of getting enough air into the case and achieving positive air pressure? Running a be quiet shadow rock slim air cooler. Additionally I could still install 2 more fans at the top if that helps. Any advice is welcomed.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dlewbell*
> 
> I don't see much point in swapping out the front fans for PWM versions of the same fan. The PH-F140SP has a pretty wide operating range with voltage control, & most motherboards will only have 1 or 2 PWM headers vs 3+ voltage control headers anyway. That just seems like a waste of $40, unless you have plans for the stock fans elsewhere. I also wouldn't be in a hurry to swap the stock rear fan for the AF140 either, but I can understand wanting a certain look. Overall, I would expect that 2 intakes & 1 exhaust will work reasonably well with your setup, though of course what GPU you use will also have an effect.


What @dlewbell says is correct. Changing to the XP gets you absolutely nothing. Same fan, and the SP has an unusually low startup speed so nothing is gained there.

And changing a very capable exhaust fan to a very incapable one while using excellent intake fans will definitely insure that you have positive pressure







. No chance I would _ever_ change out an F140SP for an AF140, especially a "Quiet Edition" that moves an incredibly limited air. With the natural exhaust resistance of the Evolv ATX, bad exhaust fans are a total airflow killer - your GPU and SR Slim aren't going to like that.....


----------



## der-kaiser

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dlewbell*
> 
> I don't see much point in swapping out the front fans for PWM versions of the same fan. The PH-F140SP has a pretty wide operating range with voltage control, & most motherboards will only have 1 or 2 PWM headers vs 3+ voltage control headers anyway. That just seems like a waste of $40, unless you have plans for the stock fans elsewhere. I also wouldn't be in a hurry to swap the stock rear fan for the AF140 either, but I can understand wanting a certain look. Overall, I would expect that 2 intakes & 1 exhaust will work reasonably well with your setup, though of course what GPU you use will also have an effect.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Pretty much what dlewbell said.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you didn't already have PH-F140SP and PWM controlled fan hub for variable voltage fans then the PH-F140XP would be a good choice. But dong it now is just spending money for no good reason in our opinions. If you have to use the money, send it to one of use. I need an ITX system to build new Enthoo Mini XL DS case with.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Looking very nice!


Cheers for the replies guys. The PH-F140XP will actually come from a previous build so no additional money will be spent on them. I will be using the asus 1070 strix as my GPU in this build. Given the above, should I still swap the PH-F140SP out? Alternatively I could also install them onto the top of the case but not sure what are the pros and cons of that.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *der-kaiser*
> 
> Cheers for the replies guys. The PH-F140XP will actually come from a previous build so no additional money will be spent on them. I will be using the asus 1070 strix as my GPU in this build. Given the above, should I still swap the PH-F140SP out? Alternatively I could also install them onto the top of the case but not sure what are the pros and cons of that.


Depends on how you want to control their speed.
How do you want to control their speed?


----------



## Bill Owen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmastin*
> 
> Do y'all think the silver would match the color I have, Antracite Gray, or is there a way to color polished aluminum to match?


You will have to paint the aluminum to match your Antracite Grey finish. I recently posted this DIY guide that covers painting any bare aluminum part made by Mnpctech, if you can find a paint to match your factory color?


----------



## der-kaiser

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Depends on how you want to control their speed.
> How do you want to control their speed?


Mobo software or bios. Ideally would like to set it and forget it.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *der-kaiser*
> 
> Mobo software or bios. Ideally would like to set it and forget it.


Sorry, I guess I wasn't clear.









I was assuming using motherboard, but what do you have available on motherboard? Many only have PWM on CPU fan header .. obviously base on CPU temp. Most all other fan headers are variable voltage. Many mother boards do not have a fan header that is controlled by GPU temperature.

While most GPU fan headers are PWM, not all are.

It is CPU and GPU that generate the most heat and need the most airflow, but both are not always working hard at the time. So we need to have some case fans controlled by CPU temp and other by GPU temp.

I used to do almost all all case fans PWM control by using CPU and GPU PWM signal and PSU power. Here is a link to using PWM control signal. It is a few years old now and I have not updated it to include newer motherboard and GPU, but basics are still the same.
http://www.overclock.net/t/1491876/ways-to-better-cooling-airflow-cooler-fan-data/0_20#post_22319246


----------



## der-kaiser

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Sorry, I guess I wasn't clear.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was assuming using motherboard, but what do you have available on motherboard? Many only have PWM on CPU fan header .. obviously base on CPU temp. Most all other fan headers are variable voltage. Many mother boards do not have a fan header that is controlled by GPU temperature.
> 
> While most GPU fan headers are PWM, not all are.
> 
> It is CPU and GPU that generate the most heat and need the most airflow, but both are not always working hard at the time. So we need to have some case fans controlled by CPU temp and other by GPU temp.
> 
> I used to do almost all all case fans PWM control by using CPU and GPU PWM signal and PSU power. Here is a link to using PWM control signal. It is a few years old now and I have not updated it to include newer motherboard and GPU, but basics are still the same.
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1491876/ways-to-better-cooling-airflow-cooler-fan-data/0_20#post_22319246


I'll be using an ASUS hero alpha board. Additionally, my GFC also comes with two 4pin fan headers. Would it make sense for the two front intakes to be hooked onto the GFC and the exhaust to the mobo header?


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *der-kaiser*
> 
> I'll be using an ASUS hero alpha board. Additionally, my GFC also comes with two 4pin fan headers. Would it make sense for the two front intakes to be hooked onto the GFC and the exhaust to the mobo header?


I'm not familiar with that mobo.
No, it does not make sense.








Airflow is an 'in and out' at same time kind of thing.
We can't push air into case without that same amount of air coming out of case.
We cannot pull air out of case without that same amount of air going into case.

Having both intake and exhaust fans on a case is basically the same as having push / pull fans on a cooler or radiator. If done properly we often only need one or the other, not both. On a case usually filtered intake fans is best .. or filtered intake and exhaust. Also keep in mind the path the air flows through the case is just as important as the amount of airflow is. It's all about flowing (pushing / pulling) heated component exhaust air out of case without it contaminating / heating up the cool intake air flowing to components.


----------



## wickedout

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Joe88*
> 
> I have 3x 120mm on top right now, I can push these fans further to the front to allow even more room for the pump/res/tubing to the rear of the case. I cant put it in the front as only 2x 140mm, 2x 120x will fit (I would also lose all the drive bays)
> 
> 
> 
> Can you by any chance upload a few close up pics of the clearance?


Sorry I didn't take any pictures but I can tell you this it's a very tight fit with just enough clearance. I was surprised it worked. The 240 rad is sitting comfortably on top without any issues so far.


----------



## moda

Question on the Evolv ATX, can you mount a 280mm rad in the front and still maintain the 3.5" bays in the bottom?

Wanting to fit a 360mm rad in the top (RX360 - 56mm thick), either 240mm rad (RX240 - 56mm thick) or 280mm rad (GTS280 - 54mm thick) in the front, plus 3x 3.5" hdds in the floor (2x in the bays and 1x next to it)) and 2x 2.5" ssds on the back.

Possible?


----------



## Akhenaton

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *19DELTASNAFU*
> 
> FINALLY got the Enthoo Luxe finished today. Just have a few minor details and one LOUD Bitphoenix fan I've got to replace. EK fans are dead silent.


Finally a Luxe! There are too many evo here...

Great job! Can you take bigger pics of the rig?


----------



## sav4

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *19DELTASNAFU*
> 
> FINALLY got the Enthoo Luxe finished today. Just have a few minor details and one LOUD Bitphoenix fan I've got to replace. EK fans are dead silent.
> 
> http://s117.photobucket.com/user/looker12/media/IMG_0660_zpsglazc6pm.jpg.html
> 
> http://s117.photobucket.com/user/looker12/media/IMG_0658_zps3ug8h4c8.jpg.html
> 
> http://s117.photobucket.com/user/looker12/media/IMG_0657_zps3a2uegqg.jpg.html


Nice build


----------



## Chiobe

Any builds with the mnpctech window replacement?


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *moda*
> 
> Question on the Evolv ATX, can you mount a 280mm rad in the front and still maintain the 3.5" bays in the bottom?
> 
> Wanting to fit a 360mm rad in the top (RX360 - 56mm thick), either 240mm rad (RX240 - 56mm thick) or 280mm rad (GTS280 - 54mm thick) in the front, plus 3x 3.5" hdds in the floor (2x in the bays and 1x next to it)) and 2x 2.5" ssds on the back.
> 
> Possible?


Annoyingly, no. It just interferes with the vertical bracket mount at the bottom front of the case. That being said, you can buy a 3.5 inch cage from phanteks and use the bottom mounting point. If you need two drives I suggest you get creative and break out the high strength Velcro and sound dampening foam.


----------



## 19DELTASNAFU

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chiobe*
> 
> Any builds with the mnpctech window replacement?


I have the MNPC TECH window on my case. As soon as the EK fan comes for the replacement to the loud bitphoenix I will post up some B roll pics on here using a friends high quality camera. For EK formus, here, and MNPC tech. The fit and finish of the MNPC tech window is flawless and VERY high quality. Weighs ALOT. LOVE it ABSOLUTELY recommend it. The only thing that bothers me about this build is why in the heck EK counter sinks the holes in the 360 PE radiator. Their plug or their 8mm extension is the only way to connect to the rad. Not even their own compression fitting will fit into the counter sink. Ughhh. But as soon as I get the EK fan from PPCs and get it mounted I will post up some high quality pics. One other thing, the 240 Hardware Labs radiator has to be the hardest radiator to get all the air out of I've ever seen. They must build in air pockets. At least 100ml of air come out of that rad after normal bleeding. Looking at cases again this morning. Really wanting to do a red, white, and blue pastel build using Monsoons res with the dividers. Thanks for the like. Here is a couple of cell phone pics with the MNPC tech glass side panel.

http://s117.photobucket.com/user/looker12/media/IMG_0666_zpsuhzrjuld.jpg.html

http://s117.photobucket.com/user/looker12/media/IMG_0665_zpsmiu8wp6i.jpg.html

With ought the Bitphoenix fan this build is absolutely silent. Before I replaced the fan my wife asked me "recon how long the neighbor is going to weedeat, it's getting on my nerves" haha. Guys, I am truly sorry if my posts, responses are sometime a little incoherent. I have a very serious neurological/muscular disorder that is truly hell on me but I do my best, and also the "ee" key is sticking on this $100 keyboard. Please bear with me. Maybe this pic will help explain my situation.



I'm bedridden alot of days, wheelchair 90 percent, so when I post something or build something you can believe I've done the best I can do and have given it my all. Thanks guys.


----------



## Chiobe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *19DELTASNAFU*
> 
> I have the MNPC TECH window on my case. As soon as the EK fan comes for the replacement to the loud bitphoenix I will post up some B roll pics on here using a friends high quality camera. For EK formus, here, and MNPC tech. Thee fit and finish of the MNPC tech window is flawless and VERY high quality. Weighs ALOT. LOVE it ABSOLUTELY recommend it. The only thing that bothers me about this build is why in the heck EK counter sinks the holes in the 360 PE radiator. Their plug or their 8mm extension is the only way to connect to the rad. Not even their own compression fitting will fit into the counter sink. Ughhh. But as soon as I get the EK fan from PPCs and get it mounted I will post up some high quality pics. One other thing, the 240 Hardware Labs radiator has to be the hardest radiator to get all the air out of I've ever seen. They must build in air pockets. At least 10ml of air come out of that rad after normal bleeding. Looking at cases again this morning. Really wanting to do a red, white, and blue pastel build using Monsoons res with the dividers. Thanks for the like. Here is a couple of cell phone pics with the MNPC tech glass side panel.
> 
> With ought the Bitphoenix fan this build is absolutely silent. Before I replaced the fan my wife asked me "recon how long the neighbor is going to weedeat, it's getting on my nerves" haha.


Wrong case, but still useful info. Is it scratch resistance or does it get marks easy? Same for fingerprints I guess.

As for bleeding, that seems to depend on how easy the air can move out of the place its in. Adding a T somewhere in the top of the loop, so you can bleed or add air pressure, might be useful in complex builds.

Phanteks Enthoo Primo SE, how big of a reservoir can I add on the reservoir mount besides the motherboard?
I will be using Hardware Labs Black Ice SR2 in top and bottom, with a single set of fans (dont think its enough room for push-pull), if that matters to the reservoir length.
Also, the pump spot besides the PSU, can it still be used with a 200mm long PSU?


----------



## Testing12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *19DELTASNAFU*
> 
> I'm bedridden alot of days, wheelchair 90 percent, so when I post something or build something you can believe I've done the best I can do and have given it my all.


You have done a great job on that build and are truly a remarkable person.
I wish you all the best!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *19DELTASNAFU*
> 
> Thanks guys.


No sir, thank you!


----------



## Scotty99

Man i really want the enthoo pro but they messed up seriously on the intake:

1. Lots of dust is gonna get in there if you dont tape those side intakes off, and who wants to put tape on a new PC.
2. I heard from so many sites/reviews that the 200mm fan is loud. Im sure someone will come in here and say it isnt tho lol. Why didnt they just put dual 140's in front without massacring the case to fit the 200mm in there.


----------



## Chiobe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scotty99*
> 
> Man i really want the enthoo pro but they messed up seriously on the intake:
> 
> 1. Lots of dust is gonna get in there if you dont tape those side intakes off, and who wants to put tape on a new PC.
> 2. I heard from so many sites/reviews that the 200mm fan is loud. Im sure someone will come in here and say it isnt tho lol. Why didnt they just put dual 140's in front without massacring the case to fit the 200mm in there.


Just buy some filters and mount them over the side intake: https://www.amazon.com/Computer-Air-Filter-Polyurethane-Protects/dp/B000FJU8BC


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scotty99*
> 
> Man i really want the enthoo pro but they messed up seriously on the intake:
> 
> 1. Lots of dust is gonna get in there if you dont tape those side intakes off, and who wants to put tape on a new PC.
> 2. I heard from so many sites/reviews that the 200mm fan is loud. Im sure someone will come in here and say it isnt tho lol. Why didnt they just put dual 140's in front without massacring the case to fit the 200mm in there.


1. I haven't seen many dust complaints, even from people who don't block the side intakes.
2. Not sure you will find many here with anything good to say about the 200mm fan.....excepting that it is easy to remove.


----------



## Scotty99

Its just that even if i stuffed some filter material in there it would be a pain to clean that. They got so much of the case right just to mess up on small stuff lol. Also, when removing the 200mm fan that reduces the value the case offers because you would need to buy two new fans...sigh. Is it possible to turn down the 200mm to a point of being inaudible and still blow enough air?


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scotty99*
> 
> Its just that even if i stuffed some filter material in there it would be a pain to clean that. They got so much of the case right just to mess up on small stuff lol. Also, when removing the 200mm fan that reduces the value the case offers because you would need to buy two new fans...sigh. Is it possible to turn down the 200mm to a point of being inaudible and still blow enough air?


Replace the PH-F200SP with 2x PH-F140SP. That what should have been installed to start with.


----------



## Scotty99

I completely agree, but that puts the case in a different price bracket negating one of the reasons its such an great case. At this point i think its best for me to wait for a enthoo pro v2 with a proper dust filter and fans....and while they are at it remove the 5.25 bays lol.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scotty99*
> 
> I completely agree, but that puts the case in a different price bracket negating one of the reasons its such an great case. At this point i think its best for me to wait for a enthoo pro v2 with a proper dust filter and fans....and while they are at it remove the 5.25 bays lol.


So, essentially a Pro M Acrylic?


----------



## Scotty99

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> So, essentially a Pro M Acrylic?


Sadly the front intake is still poorly designed on that case requiring modifications to keep dust out. It also still has a 5.25 bay for some reason.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> 1. I haven't seen many dust complaints, even from people who don't block the side intakes.
> 2. Not sure you will find many here with anything good to say about the 200mm fan.....excepting that it is easy to remove.


i lived in a dusty house when i had my pro and it was pretty bad...i had thought someone posted a picture of the pro that came with the screen mesh like the primo has for the back fans...either way the pro is an amazing case even at 150 it would be decent for the money...so 3 dollars in foam isnt that bad...the 200mm fan isnt all that loud it just doesnt move nearly the air two 140s does...i think people seem to forget how loud hand used to be....like my old masscool 2800rpm fans...they were louder than stock r9 290 fan at 100 percent lol


----------



## Scotty99

I figured the dust would be pretty bad just looking at the pictures of the intakes, i also have a cat so ya. I guess its nzxt h440 or fractal define r5 for me at this point.

Phanteks its a really odd bird to me, they clearly know how to do proper dust filters as shown on the evolv atx but then you look at the dust filters on the P400 which are literally laughable.


----------



## Duality92

Updated the OP, added the Luxe, Evolv series and Mini XL!


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scotty99*
> 
> I figured the dust would be pretty bad just looking at the pictures of the intakes, i also have a cat so ya. I guess its nzxt h440 or fractal define r5 for me at this point.
> 
> Phanteks its a really odd bird to me, they clearly know how to do proper dust filters as shown on the evolv atx but then you look at the dust filters on the P400 which are literally laughable.


So......in order to keep dust out, you are also fine with keeping air out.....both of those cases are notoriously bad in terms of airflow. The R5 is understandable, as it is built for silence, and airflow oriented variations of the case are available. That isn't the case with the H440, which also doesn't come close to the Fractal or Phanteks in build quality.

To each their own.


----------



## blackmesatech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Stopping the heated air out of radiator from flowing down through the holes an heating up the air below is what needs to be accomplished, not heat or noise radiation.
> Just copied some images and added the text.


What would you suggest for blocking that heat?


----------



## Scotty99

Not trying to start a beef here man, just trying to find the case that suits me best. Let me add i think the rumors about the H440 running hot are a bit exaggerated. Sure if you are running an AIO in an H440 you will probably be seeing higher temps than normal, but i think a proper air cooler would run great in an H440 as would in an R5.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scotty99*
> 
> Not trying to start a beef here man, just trying to find the case that suits me best. Let me add i think the rumors about the H440 running hot are a bit exaggerated. Sure if you are running an AIO in an H440 you will probably be seeing higher temps than normal, but i think a proper air cooler would run great in an H440 as would in an R5.


No beef here. It just seems you are looking for the absolute perfect case, but airflow seems to be an afterthought. It is also a shame that the average consumer does not have the ability to actually go to a store to actually have a hands on with the case to look at the issues, compare build quality, see what may be an entirely different issue for them, etc. Choosing cases has become a ridiculously difficult task these days.

Having done extensive testing on the R5, H440 and all of the Phanteks line (along with a lot of other cases), I can assure you that the H440's airflow issues are not exaggerated in the least. It doesn't matter if you are running air, liquid or a CLC - it simply doesn't flow correctly. The R5 is a bit better, is also built like a tank and has great finishing work, but it is, and is marketed as a case built for silence, not airflow. The Enthoo Pro is better than either of them, even with the 200mm (which is only noisy at the upper end of it's speed rating).

BTW - I was being completely serious about the Pro M Acrylic. It matches up with all of the requirements you are looking for, and is priced ridiculously low for what it is.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blackmesatech*
> 
> What would you suggest for blocking that heat?


We want to stop the air flow going back into the case.
Tape, contact vinyl, paper, cardboard, whatever will stop air flow flowing back down into the case.


----------



## Testing12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> It is also a shame that the average consumer does not have the ability to actually go to a store to actually have a hands on with the case to look at the issues, compare build quality, see what may be an entirely different issue for them, etc. Choosing cases has become a ridiculously difficult task these days.


Ah, the bane of the internet. I still use an Antec 900 case that I bought (seems like ages ago) from a well-stocked computer shop. Now, all they have a front desk and pretty much no stock at all.
I'm fortunate to have a Micro Center and a couple of Fry's within easy driving distance, but I certainly can agree with your quote above!


----------



## 19DELTASNAFU

Chiobe, the glass is better than anything that will come with ANY OEM case. I'd say it's the best you can buy. As for the Primoi, it's huge and I have no idea what could be done with it. The way to do it is to look for build logs and find one near what you're wanting to do and look for the specs of the res, that's what I'd do. I had a 200mm Monsoon for the Enthoo Lux but didn't put it in because it was just too big but it might look right in the primo. The Luxe is big and I can't even imagine what you could put in a Primo. Probably dual system without much problem. You guys complaining about dust intake just change the flow. The possibilities are endless with these cases. Limitless. If you're watercooling and using a 360 and a 240 in this case you don't have to worry about dust at all. Playing Crysis 3 at 2k all maxed out at 100hz my highest temp recorded was 49 celcius with a 6700k and 980ti on a single loop. The water flow never even changed. Totally silent. These are HIGH quality cases. Much better than Fractal. You'd have to go to the super high end custom market to find a better case and they are just boxes with NO dust filters anywhere. It has a lot to do with setting up you fan speed and I think slightly positive pressure is the key to keeping the dust out the longest. You'll never keep it out but you can add a little time in between cleaning. With slightly positive air you can go a year here in the south without it getting to bad and I rarely keep a computer two years so............................................also, my Luxe has a AX1200i under the cover with room left over for a hard drive. But for me a spinning drive just makes too much noise. SSD for me. Low power, silent and lasts forever, at least the sandisk extremes do.


----------



## moda

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> Annoyingly, no. It just interferes with the vertical bracket mount at the bottom front of the case. That being said, you can buy a 3.5 inch cage from phanteks and use the bottom mounting point. If you need two drives I suggest you get creative and break out the high strength Velcro and sound dampening foam.


Hrm ok, fair enough, thanks









Looks like it would have to be a 240mm in the front if I wanted to use the 3.5" bays then, and a slimmer 360mm in the top - 30mm? Will have to have a think about whether it's worth it or not, the Evolv ATX is smaller and looks much higher quality than my 750D haha.


----------



## dmfree88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scotty99*
> 
> I figured the dust would be pretty bad just looking at the pictures of the intakes, i also have a cat so ya. I guess its nzxt h440 or fractal define r5 for me at this point.
> 
> Phanteks its a really odd bird to me, they clearly know how to do proper dust filters as shown on the evolv atx but then you look at the dust filters on the P400 which are literally laughable.


I took some photos for you for reference. This rig has been running for about 1 month straight (a little over if you include the time it sat and the time it ran with a faulty motherboard for a couple weeks, I also moved with it and opened/closed it what seems like 100 times now lol) in a garage with 6 cats that are pretty much always in the garage, the rig is almost always on and the PSU fan is constantly running (no silent mode). I am using the Pro-M acrylic. I didn't really take any photos of the inside except for the heatsink of the CPU but inside is spotless even with the pci-e slots removed (have positive air pressure so no dust coming in anyways). Here's the photo of the heatsink:


Spoiler: CPU Heatsink







As you can see no dust accumulation yet built up in the heatsink, all the fans are so far clean and dust free. For reference of how much is accumulated in a couple months here is a picture of the front top and psu fan filter


Spoiler: Front









Spoiler: Top









Spoiler: PSU filter







I knocked a couple hairs off the front a couple times but nothing major. As you can see the PSU filter picked up the most of it because it is on the bottom. I was able to easily pull it out and put it in without moving the case though and cleaning only took a quick blow through the back and wipe off:


Spoiler: Clean PSU filter







The front panel was even easier really. I removed the front panel (which is remarkably easy, dont forget to remove anything plugged in to front panel ports). Checked the filter and it was nearly spotless because of the front mesh so I did not even remove the filter I just blew through it and closed it back up, then wiped off the front with the palm of my hand and done:


Spoiler: Mostly clean front







For basically 1 minute every couple months to keep the case mostly clean and still functioning I think that is pretty good. Really surprised me how well it is keeping dust out. Cat hairs don't even get close to entering. If you are hesitant because of this hopefully this helps give you an idea of the buildup in some pretty bad conditions.


----------



## PureBlackFire

you guys and your power supplies with spinning fans. got two builds, one just transferred into the InWin 303 (very impressive for a $90 case btw) and one in my Luxe. my psu filters are clean because the psu fans don't spin.


----------



## dmfree88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PureBlackFire*
> 
> you guys and your power supplies with spinning fans. got two builds, one just transferred into the InWin 303 (very impressive for a $90 case btw) and one in my Luxe. my psu filters are clean because the psu fans don't spin.


Yeah that is my next goal is a new PSU for that exact reason. I am still running a 5+ year old Seasonic 650w m12II from back when that was the best bang for buck and silent mode was nearly unheard of. It is not even sold anymore in the version I have (has old proprietary straight line 6pin instead of standard rectangular 6pin modular cables). Also doesn't run in the some of the newer c-state settings and I think it is the reason I keep having trouble coming out of sleep (even though the unsupported c-state is disabled). Just cant afford to get a new one right now unfortunately. Still need a new GPU too.


----------



## Chiobe

Lets try this again:

Phanteks Enthoo Primo SE
How big of a reservoir can I add on the reservoir mount besides the motherboard?
I will be using Hardware Labs Black Ice SR2 in top and bottom, with a single set of fans (dont think its enough room for push-pull), if that matters to the reservoir length.
Also, the pump spot besides the PSU, can it still be used with a 200mm long PSU?


----------



## Sazexa

A little update and some more information on fitment of 272mm E-ATX in the Evolv ATX case. I didn't include pictures of my own RVE10 motherboard regarding the removal of the back plate, but I will post information about it in my build log once I create that. With the grommets for the motherboard tray removed, and some nice insulation work using electrical tape, you have a very tight, but still acceptable, fitment of the board and it's safe to use.





Going back to the rest of the build, here's some more pictures.

Getting near completion, need a few more fittings, the CPU, and the second GPU.


These next three pictures show the QDC set up I made for myself. I plan to use SLI, but, this configuration will allow me to quick connect to one, or two GPU's (two once their combined with a terminal bridge in the water cooling loop.) This way, when I inevitably swap GPU's, I can quickly remove two. I also gave myself slack to allow myself to by-pass the GPU's completely, and run the entire loop just for the CPU. This let's me test new GPU's when I get them on air, and then order water blocks once I confirm they're functional.




This set highlights how I mounted the top radiator to provide room for another 360mm in the front. It was still a little difficult to fit the front radiator in there with the top on all the way at the case rear.

First, you'll need mounting screws with a allen-head (like that come with EK's radiators). Secure in the radiator with the screws, but leave them loose. This way you can slide the radiator on the bracket with ease. Also, be careful, as you will scratch the paint on your rad if you aren't like I did.


As you can see, it was loose enough to slide the radiator to where will be the "back" side of the case. Make sure you put in screws in places that won't block you from moving backwards.


For this next step, you need to remove the top panel of the case. It's pretty self explanatory, with four screws, two in the front and two on the back. Just take note, as one side has longer screws than the other, and those are needed to secure the panel properly. Slide the radiator tray into the case, slide the radiator as far back in the case as you can, and use your allen key to tighten down the screws. This is why it's important, as some are blocked by the top panel of the case. The allen key allows you to still tighten them down once installed into the case.


At this point, you can also add some more screws to hold in the radiator for extra support, now that you don't need some removed to allow the radiator to slide on the bracket. You can now re-install the top panel for the case.


All said and done, the radiator should be touching the rear of the case, allowing fitment of front-mounted radiators. The specific two I used in mine are the EK SE 360 (360*26mm) on top, and an EK PE 360 (360*38mm) in the front.


A couple of random shots, showing my pump and how it's mounted, and my cables.



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PureBlackFire*
> 
> you guys and your power supplies with spinning fans. got two builds, one just transferred into the InWin 303 (very impressive for a $90 case btw) and one in my Luxe. my psu filters are clean because the psu fans don't spin.


PureBlackFire, I have not forgotten you! I know I still owe you a picture of the 3.5" caddy and spacing below. It's kind of hard to give you a definite answer, as there are multiple way to mount it and give or take space away from one side or another.


----------



## PureBlackFire

^ nah, I actually got a good look at the hard drive position in two of the pics you just posted. thanks. you've been a great help to those wondering about fitting certain hardware into this case.


----------



## Testing12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PureBlackFire*
> 
> you've been a great help to those wondering about fitting certain hardware into this case.


+1! Indeed you have, Sazexa! Thanks much!


----------



## pez

@doyll & ciarlatano

I'm thinking I'd like to hold onto my D15 a bit longer, but I'm thinking of changing up the fans (aesthetics purposes







). I know doyll really likes the Thermalright TY-14#'s, but I was curious what thoughts were between the following fans. All in the same price range for me, and I'm happy with each one's color scheme, though I really like that Thermalright fan. I'd ideally like to keep the same cooling performance:

Thermalright TY-147A
Phanteks PH-F140HP_BK2
Noctua NF-P14r redux-1500 PWM

Curious to know each of your thoughts if you don't mind







.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scotty99*
> 
> Sadly the front intake is still poorly designed on that case requiring modifications to keep dust out. It also still has a 5.25 bay for some reason.


The Pro M Acrylic Edition fixed all but one portion at the bottom. And even that could be fixed with a small bit of mesh. The sides have been fixed, but they left the bottom open. I'm guessing this is so people don't push it out/in when grabbing the bottom to pull the panel off. That's probably my only complaint still (outside of the TG panel not being available yet). It's not a terribly pricey case already, so $5 in extra equipment (mesh + adhesive) isn't too bad I think.


----------



## Scotty99

@dmfree88 thanks for the pics, that isnt bad at all tbh. Good call on the PSU whoever suggested that, i think my next build im gonna go overkill on PSU just so it does not spin up (like a 750w corsair rmi, i think that has hybrid fan). Ill look at Pro M acrylic again, for some reason i scratched it off my list originally but cant recall why, gonna watch a couple more vids on it.

I remember now, it was the front dust filter. It definitely is not fixed from the pro the sides still are not filtered. I also dislike that it has an optical drive, how it is now if you install another fan on front most of the air will be wasted being shot only at the PSU under the cover....they should have nixed the optical slot entirely and gone with a full mesh on front of the case.

Back to the search!


----------



## doyll

@dmfree88 I don't see a pic of the front filter, but only the front grill. I know you know there is a filter on the inside of front that is accessed by popping the front panel off.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pez*
> 
> @doyll & ciarlatano
> 
> I'm thinking I'd like to hold onto my D15 a bit longer, but I'm thinking of changing up the fans (aesthetics purposes
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ). I know doyll really likes the Thermalright TY-14#'s, but I was curious what thoughts were between the following fans. All in the same price range for me, and I'm happy with each one's color scheme, though I really like that Thermalright fan. I'd ideally like to keep the same cooling performance:
> 
> Thermalright TY-147A
> Phanteks PH-F140HP_BK2
> Noctua NF-P14r redux-1500 PWM
> 
> Curious to know each of your thoughts if you don't mind
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> The Pro M Acrylic Edition fixed all but one portion at the bottom. And even that could be fixed with a small bit of mesh. The sides have been fixed, but they left the bottom open. I'm guessing this is so people don't push it out/in when grabbing the bottom to pull the panel off. That's probably my only complaint still (outside of the TG panel not being available yet). It's not a terribly pricey case already, so $5 in extra equipment (mesh + adhesive) isn't too bad I think.


You know what I think of TY-147A .. one of the best available and now being released in a square housing (TY-147Asq).
PH-F140HP_BK2 is same as PH-F140MP
Have not used any NF-P14r redux, but assume they are fine.


----------



## dmfree88

Yes as my post indicated it was basically clean thanks to the front mesh so I did not remove it I just blew threw it quickly to get rid of the few dots of dust I saw then put it back together and wiped down the front of the case.The filter wasn't worth removing for the few hairs that might have slipped through I couldn't see from the back, not that it is that difficult but meh. I am waiting for plasti-dip so I can clean it all up and paint it so no reason to go crazy cleaning now anyways.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmfree88*
> 
> Yes as my post indicated it was basically clean thanks to the front mesh so I did not remove it I just blew threw it quickly to get rid of the few dots of dust I saw then put it back together and wiped down the front of the case.The filter wasn't worth removing for the few hairs that might have slipped through I couldn't see from the back, not that it is that difficult but meh. I am waiting for plasti-dip so I can clean it all up and paint it so no reason to go crazy cleaning now anyways.


That makes sense.








While bottom will draw a little more dust, the front is usually not too far behind. Makes me wonder about how much air the front intakes fans are bringing into case. But as long as system is running cool and quiet there is no reason to change anything.


----------



## pez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> @dmfree88 I don't see a pic of the front filter, but only the front grill. I know you know there is a filter on the inside of front that is accessed by popping the front panel off.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You know what I think of TY-147A .. one of the best available and now being released in a square housing (TY-147Asq).
> PH-F140HP_BK2 is same as PH-F140MP
> Have not used any NF-P14r redux, but assume they are fine.


Yeah, and it just so happens to fit the color scheme the best, too







. I'm very eager for the Chromax covers from Noctua, but I understand that those will take a while to see the market. Until then, I think a more aesthetic approach with my fans may pay off







.


----------



## dmfree88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> That makes sense.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> While bottom will draw a little more dust, the front is usually not too far behind. Makes me wonder about how much air the front intakes fans are bringing into case. But as long as system is running cool and quiet there is no reason to change anything.


Well I decided to take it off again because I saw the post about the lower intake having a hole. I checked the filter and it was actually quite a bit more dirty on the front then I could see which is good because that means most of the air seemed to suck through the filter not through the hole in the bottom (forgot to take a photo but it wasn't nearly as bad as the PSU filter and had no hairs thanks to the mesh). I still decided to block off the bottom with some of my ghetto sound dampener (styrofoam wrapped in electrical tape). Seems to have gotten the job done as it applies a little pressure across the bottom, if it leaks it is minimal comparatively. Since it is not visible I felt no reason to care much about what it looks like.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## pez

Yeah, I was looking into my case and noticed that lol. I had no idea until that point there was that hole







.

I'm curious to try something similar and see what my temps are. After about 3 straight days of playing hours on end of Overwatch and GTA V, I'm seeing CPU temps between 50-60C and GPU temps of 77-80C (top card) and 67-73C (bottom card). I need all the airflow I can get, and this case is not letting me down. I'm trying to think of a 'prettier' way to mod that front bottom portion







.


----------



## dmfree88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pez*
> 
> Yeah, I was looking into my case and noticed that lol. I had no idea until that point there was that hole
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> I'm curious to try something similar and see what my temps are. After about 3 straight days of playing hours on end of Overwatch and GTA V, I'm seeing CPU temps between 50-60C and GPU temps of 77-80C (top card) and 67-73C (bottom card). I need all the airflow I can get, and this case is not letting me down. I'm trying to think of a 'prettier' way to mod that front bottom portion
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


A better cut rectangle of styrofoam and some patience it would have looked pretty good really. I just don't care because of where it is at. Even if the case is up on a desk hanging off the end I doubt it would be visible. I guess if you are looking for a more permanent and professional solution I am sure there are places you can buy actual foam and dampening material to make it look good. If I ever sell the case or something I will just remove it so it seems pointless to care about aesthetic IMO. I am amazed it worked on the first try with one piece of foam cut once. Was a delicate wrap since it was fairly thin but it worked and gained a lot of strength from one layer of tape. Longest thin piece I have made before and it worked pretty good.

I am fairly impressed with how well styrofoam wrapped in electrical tape dampens sound and how well it squishes into place on everything I have used it on. Ghetto but effective.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmfree88*
> 
> Well I decided to take it off again because I saw the post about the lower intake having a hole. I checked the filter and it was actually quite a bit more dirty on the front then I could see which is good because that means most of the air seemed to suck through the filter not through the hole in the bottom (forgot to take a photo but it wasn't nearly as bad as the PSU filter and had no hairs thanks to the mesh). I still decided to block off the bottom with some of my ghetto sound dampener (styrofoam wrapped in electrical tape). Seems to have gotten the job done as it applies a little pressure across the bottom, if it leaks it is minimal comparatively. Since it is not visible I felt no reason to care much about what it looks like.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


That will work. I use cheap Dollar Store scrubber pads *(cheap 3M 'Scotch-Brite' pads).
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pez*
> 
> Yeah, I was looking into my case and noticed that lol. I had no idea until that point there was that hole
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> I'm curious to try something similar and see what my temps are. After about 3 straight days of playing hours on end of Overwatch and GTA V, I'm seeing CPU temps between 50-60C and GPU temps of 77-80C (top card) and 67-73C (bottom card). I need all the airflow I can get, and this case is not letting me down. I'm trying to think of a 'prettier' way to mod that front bottom portion
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


I use kitchen scrubber pads .. cheap imitations of 3M "Scotch-Brite" pads. I use an old scissors or razor knife to cut to fit where needed. They catch the dust without having to stop the airflow.


----------



## Akhenaton

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *19DELTASNAFU*
> 
> I have the MNPC TECH window on my case. As soon as the EK fan comes for the replacement to the loud bitphoenix I will post up some B roll pics on here using a friends high quality camera. For EK formus, here, and MNPC tech. The fit and finish of the MNPC tech window is flawless and VERY high quality. Weighs ALOT. LOVE it ABSOLUTELY recommend it. The only thing that bothers me about this build is why in the heck EK counter sinks the holes in the 360 PE radiator. Their plug or their 8mm extension is the only way to connect to the rad. Not even their own compression fitting will fit into the counter sink. Ughhh. But as soon as I get the EK fan from PPCs and get it mounted I will post up some high quality pics. One other thing, the 240 Hardware Labs radiator has to be the hardest radiator to get all the air out of I've ever seen. They must build in air pockets. At least 100ml of air come out of that rad after normal bleeding. Looking at cases again this morning. Really wanting to do a red, white, and blue pastel build using Monsoons res with the dividers. Thanks for the like. Here is a couple of cell phone pics with the MNPC tech glass side panel.
> 
> With ought the Bitphoenix fan this build is absolutely silent. Before I replaced the fan my wife asked me "recon how long the neighbor is going to weedeat, it's getting on my nerves" haha. Guys, I am truly sorry if my posts, responses are sometime a little incoherent. I have a very serious neurological/muscular disorder that is truly hell on me but I do my best, and also the "ee" key is sticking on this $100 keyboard. Please bear with me. Maybe this pic will help explain my situation.
> 
> I'm bedridden alot of days, wheelchair 90 percent, so when I post something or build something you can believe I've done the best I can do and have given it my all. Thanks guys.


Great job!

Can you post a photo of the backside of the mobo?


----------



## LinusBE

Is there any news regarding the availability of the Evolv ATX TG edition in Europe? I live in Belgium and I can't find one in stock anywhere.


----------



## Chiobe

Can no body help me? I would really like to find this info out before everything arrives later this week and next week.
As that gives me still time to order missing parts, instead of waiting for parts.

Phanteks Enthoo Primo SE

How big of a reservoir can I add on the reservoir mount besides the motherboard?
I will be using Hardware Labs Black Ice SR2 (60mm thick) in top and bottom, with a single set of fans (dont think its enough room for push-pull in top), if that matters to the reservoir length.

The pump spot in front of the PSU, can it still be used with a 200mm long PSU or do I need to find another place?

Is there any cooling available in the 5.25 bays? After all, no other place to put HDD's, which are needed as I only have an OS SSD and not enough budget to get more.


----------



## Duality92

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chiobe*
> 
> Can no body help me? I would really like to find this info out before everything arrives later this week and next week.
> As that gives me still time to order missing parts, instead of waiting for parts.
> 
> Phanteks Enthoo Primo SE
> 
> How big of a reservoir can I add on the reservoir mount besides the motherboard?
> I will be using Hardware Labs Black Ice SR2 (60mm thick) in top and bottom, with a single set of fans (dont think its enough room for push-pull in top), if that matters to the reservoir length.
> 
> The pump spot in front of the PSU, can it still be used with a 200mm long PSU or do I need to find another place?
> 
> Is there any cooling available in the 5.25 bays? After all, no other place to put HDD's, which are needed as I only have an OS SSD and not enough budget to get more.


did you check all the information in the first post along with what you're trying to do? All the information is right there.


----------



## Chiobe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Duality92*
> 
> did you check all the information in the first post along with what you're trying to do? All the information is right there.


Just checked it again, nothing about what I'm asking.


----------



## Duality92

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chiobe*
> 
> Just checked it again, nothing about what I'm asking.


http://www.overclock.net/t/1568214/phanteks-primo-measurements-resource

I'm pretty sure you'd be able to make a simple calculation for find out. That link is in the first post.


----------



## Chiobe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Duality92*
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1568214/phanteks-primo-measurements-resource
> 
> I'm pretty sure you'd be able to make a simple calculation for find out. That link is in the first post.


Guess I didnt see that.
It still leaves me with the pump spot question.

And since it looks like I will have to mod the case, as my radiator is 133mm wide, so do I guess the 5.25 bays are useless.


----------



## dlewbell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chiobe*
> 
> Guess I didnt see that.
> It still leaves me with the pump spot question.
> 
> And since it looks like I will have to mod the case, as my radiator is 133mm wide, so do I guess the 5.25 bays are useless.


My suggestion would be to call Phanteks directly & ask what the maximum power supply length is in the Primo with the pump bracket in position 2 to per page 29 of the manual. You'll likely get an answer quickly, & then you can share it with the rest of us. Their customer service is great. As is, Primo owners seem to be a minority in this thread, so there many not be many people that even could answer you.


----------



## Faster_is_better

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chiobe*
> 
> Can no body help me? I would really like to find this info out before everything arrives later this week and next week.
> As that gives me still time to order missing parts, instead of waiting for parts.
> 
> Phanteks Enthoo Primo SE
> 
> How big of a reservoir can I add on the reservoir mount besides the motherboard?
> I will be using Hardware Labs Black Ice SR2 (60mm thick) in top and bottom, with a single set of fans (dont think its enough room for push-pull in top), if that matters to the reservoir length.
> 
> The pump spot in front of the PSU, can it still be used with a 200mm long PSU or do I need to find another place?
> 
> Is there any cooling available in the 5.25 bays? After all, no other place to put HDD's, which are needed as I only have an OS SSD and not enough budget to get more.


Here is my pump mounted in back with EVGA 1300 G2, it's 200mm long



I'm not sure which mounting holes I used, probably the ones farthest away from PSU, or perhaps just the ones that lined up with that hole I used above the pump.


----------



## nycgtr

I don't think you'd run into any psu issues, even with a pump there. I have a Ek d5 revo there and I have plenty of room with the supernova 1300. I used the holes further away. Although the EK d5 revo doesn't line up completely with the mount that comes with the case it's doable without modification or vibration. In terms of the Max res size you could fit by motherboard, depends on your top rad. I have a 250ML bitspower and I don't think a bigger res would fit very well if you have a top or bottom rad that's thick/ running push and pull.

I am running pull on top push on bottom. 30mm rad on top 60mm rad on bottom. My fitting on the bottom of my res is touching the fitting from my bottom rad, and I would say there is about another 5inches of clearance to the top rad.



Yes you can mount hdd into the 5.25 drive bays if you have adapters. Some people put their pumps there but I don't see that being rather pointless as there are plenty of spots for it elsewhere.


----------



## 19DELTASNAFU

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Akhenaton*
> 
> Great job!
> 
> Can you post a photo of the backside of the mobo?


No, why on earth would you want to see the back of the MB anyway, even if I could get it done...................................... If you wondering about the cabling, it's pretty slick, just like the front. Most of the cables are under the PSU cover. The PSU cover and all the tie downs on the case made it very easy to get everything tidy and neat. When I decide on a fluid I'm cable combing the front AND the back. I have to have someone else just to slide it around on the table so no, no pics until it's all completely combed out and perfect. Big case, monster 1200i PSU........ it weighs a lot more than I can move without busting a few more discs in my back or another vertibre frature............. sorry to disappoint.


----------



## Chiobe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nycgtr*
> 
> I don't think you'd run into any psu issues, even with a pump there. I have a Ek d5 revo there and I have plenty of room with the supernova 1300. I used the holes further away. Although the EK d5 revo doesn't line up completely with the mount that comes with the case it's doable without modification or vibration. In terms of the Max res size you could fit by motherboard, depends on your top rad. I have a 250ML bitspower and I don't think a bigger res would fit very well if you have a top or bottom rad that's thick/ running push and pull.
> 
> Yes you can mount hdd into the 5.25 drive bays if you have adapters. Some people put their pumps there but I don't see that being rather pointless as there are plenty of spots for it elsewhere.


Guess I will just have to try and fit the pump in the back. But I think I have a fan mount option available, if needed.

As for reservoir, my custom one needs about 360mm with fittings, so guess that will be impossible.

And 5.25 bays are most likely useless, if I need to mod the case to fit a 133mm wide radiator in bottom.


----------



## nycgtr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chiobe*
> 
> Guess I will just have to try and fit the pump in the back. But I think I have a fan mount option available, if needed.
> 
> As for reservoir, my custom one needs about 360mm with fittings, so guess that will be impossible.
> 
> And 5.25 bays are most likely useless, if I need to mod the case to fit a 133mm wide radiator in bottom.


Why did you go with such a huge res? I believe your still in the process of ordering parts right? What are you cooling anyway? Sounds like to me your spending extra to get nothing in return. I have a 240 80mm thick in the front and I only added it since I had it laying around. My temps changed by maybe 2c. I have a 480, 280, and 240 in the box. The 5.25 bays for me fit my fan controllers and lighting stuff.


----------



## prznar1

Guys, i need a bit of your help. Im selling my old 360 60mm thck rad because it wont fit in my current case, but potential buyer would like to know if he can fit it in his Enthoo Pro. Any ideas?


----------



## dlewbell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *prznar1*
> 
> Guys, i need a bit of your help. Im selling my old 360 60mm thck rad because it wont fit in my current case, but potential buyer would like to know if he can fit it in his Enthoo Pro. Any ideas?


My specs:
Enthoo Luxe (Pro with fancy front & top panels)
Gigabyte G1.Sniper Z170
Corsair Vengeance LPX 2x8GB
I just took some quick measurements. I have about 80mm from the top mounting surface to the top of my RAM. A 60mm rad plus [email protected] is going to be 85mm. Any heat spreaders on the top of the board would be at risk of clearance issues as well & may have to be removed. The distance to the second drive bay is about 85mm (+/- depending on measurement location), so that would be iffy as well, but that just limits interior layout, not really a hard issue.
If his motherboard has the RAM slots lower down than mine, it might fit, but I wouldn't bet on it without actual measurements. He could do low profile fans, but that's far from ideal. He could mount his fans outside the case, but then he won't be able to put the top on. Realistically, I would say no, the 60mm is too thick in an Enthoo Pro.

Edit: Here's some pictures:


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *prznar1*
> 
> Guys, i need a bit of your help. Im selling my old 360 60mm thck rad because it wont fit in my current case, but potential buyer would like to know if he can fit it in his Enthoo Pro. Any ideas?


no it won't. i have a 60 mm thick 360 in my luxe, which has more vertical clearance than the pro due to the top compartment. the Pro only has 65mm of space and the mount isn't off sett at all. you can get a 60 mm thick rad in there, but no fans on it.


----------



## Chiobe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nycgtr*
> 
> Why did you go with such a huge res? I believe your still in the process of ordering parts right? What are you cooling anyway? Sounds like to me your spending extra to get nothing in return. I have a 240 80mm thick in the front and I only added it since I had it laying around. My temps changed by maybe 2c. I have a 480, 280, and 240 in the box. The 5.25 bays for me fit my fan controllers and lighting stuff.


I had it custom made for when I had the Caselabs case. I will see if I cant fit it on top of the bottom radiator instead. The pump got a small reservoir on it, so thats not an issue.

2x 480mm might be a bit too much, but with a 5930K and 2x 980Ti overclocked, so is it nice to have some extra room to turn down the fan speed.

Also, I ordered the 2x 480mm before I found out that the bottom can only handle 126mm-127mm wide radiators. You would think that would be stated on the site, as it limits quite a lot which radiators you can put in bottom, without changing the case. I mean, from EK so is it only there 26mm thick radiator that will fit.
If I didnt have it shipped in from UK, so might I have considered changing 1x 480 to 2x 240, but sites dont normally cover international shipping, so its not worth to return it.


----------



## Faster_is_better

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chiobe*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *nycgtr*
> 
> I don't think you'd run into any psu issues, even with a pump there. I have a Ek d5 revo there and I have plenty of room with the supernova 1300. I used the holes further away. Although the EK d5 revo doesn't line up completely with the mount that comes with the case it's doable without modification or vibration. In terms of the Max res size you could fit by motherboard, depends on your top rad. I have a 250ML bitspower and I don't think a bigger res would fit very well if you have a top or bottom rad that's thick/ running push and pull.
> 
> Yes you can mount hdd into the 5.25 drive bays if you have adapters. Some people put their pumps there but I don't see that being rather pointless as there are plenty of spots for it elsewhere.
> 
> 
> 
> Guess I will just have to try and fit the pump in the back. But I think I have a fan mount option available, if needed.
> 
> As for reservoir, my custom one needs about 360mm with fittings, so guess that will be impossible.
> 
> And 5.25 bays are most likely useless, if I need to mod the case to fit a 133mm wide radiator in bottom.
Click to expand...

Some people have cut the bottom half of that 5.25" side cover so that wider rads can fit in the bottom, and the top half will still allow use of the 5.25" bays.

That bottom rad width limit is one of the saddest points of the Primo IMO as well. Most people tend to use Alphacool rads in the bottom since they fit and have lots of port options and sizes available.

Also 2x 480mm rad is very common setup for the Primo, its a great setup as well I think (using it myself)


----------



## Chiobe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Faster_is_better*
> 
> Some people have cut the bottom half of that 5.25" side cover so that wider rads can fit in the bottom, and the top half will still allow use of the 5.25" bays.
> 
> That bottom rad width limit is one of the saddest points of the Primo IMO as well. Most people tend to use Alphacool rads in the bottom since they fit and have lots of port options and sizes available.
> 
> Also 2x 480mm rad is very common setup for the Primo, its a great setup as well I think (using it myself)


Yeah, I have seen that. Now I know why.
Guess I should do that along with a replacement window side panel from mnpctech.
Now I just need to find a decal or something like that to cover the 5.25 bay portion of the window side panel.
Also, I guess that will show of a reservoir on top of the bottom radiator, quite nice.

I still think its strange that its not listed in the specks, since its a big of a problem as the hight of the CPU cooler.


----------



## Jalkion

Are you guys getting positive pressure in the Evolv ATX with 2x140mm (1.5x140mm really) fans in front and top rad and rear as exhaust?

That seems unlikely to me when I plan the build out in my mind.


----------



## dainfamous

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jalkion*
> 
> Are you guys getting positive pressure in the Evolv ATX with 2x140mm (1.5x140mm really) fans in front and top rad and rear as exhaust?
> 
> That seems unlikely to me when I plan the build out in my mind.


You can adjust the fans so that the main area gets the 2x140 intake. Your hard drive loses intake though unless you install a smaller fan.

If you are using rad's on top as exhaust I would just remove the rear case fan.


----------



## michael-ocn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jalkion*
> 
> Are you guys getting positive pressure in the Evolv ATX with 2x140mm (1.5x140mm really) fans in front and top rad and rear as exhaust?
> 
> That seems unlikely to me when I plan the build out in my mind.


Yes, but the top is setup as "intake".


----------



## rfarmer

Someone was asking about the price of Phanteks GTX 1080 Founders Edition RGB GPU Block, they are listed on Phanteks store page now for $129.99.

http://www.phanteksusa.com/products/phanteks-gtx-1080-founders-edition-rgb-gpu-block


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rfarmer*
> 
> Someone was asking about the price of Phanteks GTX 1080 Founders Edition RGB GPU Block, they are listed on Phanteks store page now for $129.99.
> 
> http://www.phanteksusa.com/products/phanteks-gtx-1080-founders-edition-rgb-gpu-block


I actually have a pre-order on this, and have posed some questions to Phanteks that I am waiting for an answer on. The details on the site are very limited.

From the looks of it, it does not come with a backplate, nor does one appear to be planned. We know it works with the FE backplate, but it is unknown if it requires the FE hardware for installation or if it comes with it's own that would allow for using AIB backplates. While this seems like a trivial detail, it is actually huge for those wanting to use the block with AIB reference boards (EVGA ACX, MSI Aero, Inno 3D, KFA2, etc). If this is a purely FE compatible block, that would definitely limit the market.

I'm hoping to get an answer soon as I am waiting to order my card based on this.


----------



## Scotty99

Enthoo pro is 69.99 at newegg after 15.00 MIR today, just a heads up to peeps.


----------



## Chiobe

I'm starting to see why so few people choose the Primo as there case.

I received it and thought the seller had put some of my other items inside, to reduce shipping cost. But no, it turns out it was just the case inside the 21,5kg package (package material included). As just as a point of reference, my Caselabs TH10A, which is twice the size, was only around 15kg.

At least it should be no problems with structural strength, unless modding the bottom to make room for thicker radiator changes that (the plate needs to be cut below the 5.25 bays).


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chiobe*
> 
> I'm starting to see why so few people choose the Primo as there case.
> 
> I received it and thought the seller had put some of my other items inside, to reduce shipping cost. But no, it turns out it was just the case inside the 21,5kg package (package material included). As just as a point of reference, my Caselabs TH10A, which is twice the size, was only around 15kg.
> 
> At least it should be no problems with structural strength, unless modding the bottom to make room for thicker radiator changes that (the plate needs to be cut below the 5.25 bays).


retro123 removed his
http://www.overclock.net/t/1418637/official-case-phanteks-case-club-for-lovers-owners/11340_20#post_24444543

MNPCtech's clear side panel install shows the removed 5.25 optical bay panel and bottom fan holder & radiator bracket removed. It might help you on your way.


----------



## Chiobe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> retro123 removed his
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1418637/official-case-phanteks-case-club-for-lovers-owners/11340_20#post_24444543
> 
> MNPCtech's clear side panel install shows the removed 5.25 optical bay panel and bottom fan holder & radiator bracket removed. It might help you on your way.


I prefer to keep the 5.25 bays intact, so I can put a few HDD in there. At least till I can afford to go SSD only.
Plus I might need to keep my aquaero in the new build and it dont look like there is available room in the back, once cables are in.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chiobe*
> 
> I prefer to keep the 5.25 bays intact, so I can put a few HDD in there. At least till I can afford to go SSD only.
> Plus I might need to keep my aquaero in the new build and it dont look like there is available room in the back, once cables are in.


Keeping the top half in also helps case structural strength / stability.


----------



## Chiobe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Keeping the top half in also helps case structural strength / stability.


Yeah. I just wonder how heavy this thing will be, when the case is about 20kg by it self and I will stuff it full of parts.
Oh well, its not that often I go to LANs anyway.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chiobe*
> 
> Yeah. I just wonder how heavy this thing will be, when the case is about 20kg by it self and I will stuff it full of parts.
> Oh well, its not that often I go to LANs anyway.


LOL
It's not a LANs kind of case, that is for sure. Some of us use castor bases to make it easier to move and get into.
this is a 'sled' that is not as tall as caster base.
http://www.overclock.net/t/1418637/official-case-phanteks-case-club-for-lovers-owners/14100_20#post_25328539
Caster base is same top frame with casters
http://www.overclock.net/t/1418637/official-case-phanteks-case-club-for-lovers-owners/3740_20#post_22283145
http://www.overclock.net/t/1418637/official-case-phanteks-case-club-for-lovers-owners/13380_20#post_25213325


----------



## Chiobe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> LOL
> It's not a LANs kind of case, that is for sure. Some of us use castor bases to make it easier to move and get into.
> this is a 'sled' that is not as tall as caster base.
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1418637/official-case-phanteks-case-club-for-lovers-owners/14100_20#post_25328539
> Caster base is same top frame with casters
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1418637/official-case-phanteks-case-club-for-lovers-owners/3740_20#post_22283145
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1418637/official-case-phanteks-case-club-for-lovers-owners/13380_20#post_25213325


I have been transporting PCs to LANs for 10 years or so, so I know how to get stuff with me.
But having a caster base available cant hurt. Guess I will need to see whats available.


----------



## davidcapi

Hey guys. I built a couple PCs using Phanteks Enthoo Evolv ITX cases for two of my nephews. Here are the end results.

I really like the loop on the white PC, while it goes backwards on the CPU block







it doesn't seem to affect cooling performance).

Made an opening on the top side of the case so I could move the radiator fans out of the way.

Both:

Delidded i5 6600 Cpu
Asus H170 Mobo
16GB HyperX
Gigabyte GTX970 G1
EK blocks, reservoir, pump
XSPC Radiator
NoiseBlock/Corsair Fans
Monsoon fittings, reservoir/pump combo


----------



## Chiobe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *davidcapi*
> 
> I really like the loop on the white PC, while it goes backwards on the CPU block
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> it doesn't seem to affect cooling performance).


With a bit of planning, so would it be easy to flip the loop order.
Radiator - left intake on CPU block - out CPU - left GPU - right GPU - reservoir.
If anything else, so should that be a cleaner run, as that order should not leave any crossing of the tubes.

Other then that, nice builds.


----------



## viperguy212

Hey all,

I have to say thanks to everyone for the help and guidience getting this thing completed.

Introducing Drogon V2...









More details can be found

__
https://www.reddit.com/r/4uaqpn/drogon_v2_game_of_thrones_inspired_water_cooled/


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *viperguy212*
> 
> Hey all,
> 
> I have to say thanks to everyone for the help and guidience getting this thing completed.
> 
> Introducing Drogon V2...
> 
> More details can be found
> 
> __
> https://www.reddit.com/r/4uaqpn/drogon_v2_game_of_thrones_inspired_water_cooled/


Very, very nice. Got to love GoT.


----------



## boredgunner

^^ Normally I'm not big on themed builds but I like that one! Very nice.


----------



## Chiobe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *viperguy212*


One advice for next time you get some art work done, consider adding some contrast/shadows. The design works on the backplate because its black, but not so well on grey front panel.

Other then that, a nice system.


----------



## viperguy212

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chiobe*
> 
> One advice for next time you get some art work done, consider adding some contrast/shadows. The design works on the backplate because its black, but not so well on grey front panel.
> 
> Other then that, a nice system.


Yeah I agree 100%. Luckily the front is just a cheap vinyl I picked up off of Etsy. Chances are I'll rip it off in a month lol.


----------



## Chiobe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *viperguy212*
> 
> Yeah I agree 100%. Luckily the front is just a cheap vinyl I picked up off of Etsy. Chances are I'll rip it off in a month lol.


A cheap solution is just to add a black circle that goes under and around the design. It will give it some contrast without having to make a new vinyl design.


----------



## ref

Question, does anybody here have a Alphacool UT60 radiator in the bottom of the Enthoo Primo?

I want to orient it so that the ports are facing the front, and the 'drain port' towards the rear facing the optional PSU mesh.

Is the drain port above/visible if the mesh is taken off?


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ref*
> 
> Question, does anybody here have a Alphacool UT60 radiator in the bottom of the Enthoo Primo?
> 
> I want to orient it so that the ports are facing the front, and the 'drain port' towards the rear facing the optional PSU mesh.
> 
> Is the drain port above/visible if the mesh is taken off?


I did have that setup, but the drain was front facing.....so....I am of no help at all....sorry.


----------



## Faster_is_better

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chiobe*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> LOL
> It's not a LANs kind of case, that is for sure. Some of us use castor bases to make it easier to move and get into.
> this is a 'sled' that is not as tall as caster base.
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1418637/official-case-phanteks-case-club-for-lovers-owners/14100_20#post_25328539
> Caster base is same top frame with casters
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1418637/official-case-phanteks-case-club-for-lovers-owners/3740_20#post_22283145
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1418637/official-case-phanteks-case-club-for-lovers-owners/13380_20#post_25213325
> 
> 
> 
> I have been transporting PCs to LANs for 10 years or so, so I know how to get stuff with me.
> But having a caster base available cant hurt. Guess I will need to see whats available.
Click to expand...

Mine weighs about 35 kg with 2x 480 rads. 2x gpu with blocks and cpu is blocked. Sucks to move it








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ref*
> 
> Question, does anybody here have a Alphacool UT60 radiator in the bottom of the Enthoo Primo?
> 
> I want to orient it so that the ports are facing the front, and the 'drain port' towards the rear facing the optional PSU mesh.
> 
> Is the drain port above/visible if the mesh is taken off?


That seems like the 1 picture I don't have. It seems to me like it was off centered and blocked on my setup. Although I could have flipped the rad around and it would off center the other direction and would probably be free to use then.

Here is how I did my drain in front though. A rotary 90 into a M to M fitting into the Bitspower valve, it swings out free and I put a tube on the end. I have "extra" clearance on the bottom though because I'm using 38mm fans + some gaskets and a rad plate.


----------



## Chiobe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Faster_is_better*
> 
> Mine weighs about 35 kg with 2x 480 rads. 2x gpu with blocks and cpu is blocked. Sucks to move it


35 kg is within reason for moving it. As long as there is not too many stairs.


----------



## Kajel

Just finished my z170 Rig


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kajel*
> 
> Just finished my z170 Rig


Is that the Atlas GPU bracket from Amazon?


----------



## Kajel

Yes it is


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chiobe*
> 
> 35 kg is within reason for moving it. As long as there is not too many stairs.


im not sure what mine weighs but id say its somewhere around 60lbs and i havent finished putting things in yet or put water in the loop...i can move it around but its a workout for sure


----------



## chrisjim05

My Phanteks Pro m Watercooling Build:


----------



## doyll

Very nicely done@chrisjim05!


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chrisjim05*
> 
> My Phanteks Pro m Watercooling Build:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


very nicely done. are those HW lab stealth series rads?


----------



## chrisjim05

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PureBlackFire*
> 
> very nicely done. are those HW lab stealth series rads?


yes, is blackice 360 and 240 gts


----------



## PureBlackFire

thanks.


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chrisjim05*
> 
> My Phanteks Pro m Watercooling Build:


Very very nice! What temps do you get under load?


----------



## chrisjim05

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> Very very nice! What temps do you get under load?


cpu 6800k oc 4.2 1.24v ,aida64 FPU test cpu max.73 and Furmark test vga max. 52


----------



## LinusBE

Just ordered the Evolv ATX TG in grey. I think it is the most beautiful case you can get right now. Ordered it from Caseking.de and it should be back in stock around the 5th of August. Will post pictures here when I transfer my custom loop from my Obsidian 450D into the Evolv. Hopefully without issues.


----------



## pez

I'd really love to see another mATX case from Phanteks...that or a redesigned 'Evolv'...maybe with TG







.


----------



## Scotty99

Does anyone in here own the P400? Do the dust filters on it do a good job and how is airflow in the case?


----------



## Sazexa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pez*
> 
> I'd really love to see another mATX case from Phanteks...that or a redesigned 'Evolv'...maybe with TG
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


That'd be neat. They should make an "E-ATX" Evolv, perhaps, that really fits two 360mm radiators fine and 272mm wide boards without a hassle as well. They really only need to add another inch or two from front-to-back of the case, and perhaps another inch of height and it would be fine for that.

A mITX TG version, with all aluminum panels, would be really nifty too.


----------



## owcraftsman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scotty99*
> 
> Does anyone in here own the P400? Do the dust filters on it do a good job and how is airflow in the case?


Air Flow is decent considering the design. I have push/pull H110 GTX in front w/4x Phanteks 140 MP fans and 3-140s top & rear exhaust.

I'm pushing a 6700K to 4.7 w/1.345vcore balanced performance. ambient is 25.5c it idles 29 to 32c and 62 to 72c BF4 load

The GPU ia an EVGA 980ti SC ACS at +10mv +105PL +48CC +40MC idles 32-35c 52-69c BF4 load

IMHO a blower style GPU would be better for this case as would most of the cases out there with the stealth front. I bought/stole mine used.

I started with the top two set to intake filtered for positive pressure case environment to minimize dust. Switched both to exhaust, after advice from here, removed filter and got maybe -1 -2c improvement

It's been running weekends 15hrs +/- for 3 months filters been cleaned once and interior is largely dust free.

I have seen finer screens that catch more dust but I think Phanteks made a wise choice with these filters.

Unless my house is more dust free than the rest of America not too bad.

Pics of the rig are linked in my sig.


----------



## LolCakeLazors

What's the thickest radiator you can put in front of the Evolv ATX? Trying to do some research for my future water cooled Evolv.


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LolCakeLazors*
> 
> What's the thickest radiator you can put in front of the Evolv ATX? Trying to do some research for my future water cooled Evolv.


if you mount the rad in the front there is pretty much no limit, but it will impact whether or not you can mount hard drives as well as the length of a possible top rad. don't bother with thick rad, it isn't worth it.


----------



## LolCakeLazors

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PureBlackFire*
> 
> if you mount the rad in the front there is pretty much no limit, but it will impact whether or not you can mount hard drives as well as the length of a possible top rad. don't bother with thick rad, it isn't worth it.


Any suggestions? It's been a while since I've researched radiators. Thinking of putting a 360 up front and a 280 on the top. I only have 2 SSDs I have to mount so hard drives aren't a problem.


----------



## Testing12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sazexa*
> 
> They should make an "E-ATX" Evolv, perhaps, that really fits two 360mm radiators fine and 272mm wide boards without a hassle as well. They really only need to add another inch or two from front-to-back of the case, and perhaps another inch of height and it would be fine for that.


+1 -- Indeed!


----------



## Insaniac

Howdy folks.

I recently finished picking out some upgrade parts for my system and a big part of that was my new case the Phanteks Evolv ATX. I now have everything except for a CPU cooler and would like some recommendations on what would be best with the rest of my system in mind with the new case.

Below you can see a full breakdown of the parts in my system.
Quote:


> CPU: Intel Core i7-4790K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor
> Motherboard: Asus MAXIMUS VII HERO ATX LGA1150
> Memory: G.Skill Trident X Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-2400
> GPU: Gigabyte G1 GTX 1070 8GB
> Storage: Samsung 850 EVO 500GB 2.5" Solid State Drive
> Storage: Western Digital BLACK SERIES 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM
> Power Supply: EVGA SuperNOVA 1000G2 1000W 80+ Gold
> Case: Phanteks Evolv ATX


I previously had the H100i which was good but kind of loud. I was thinking of doing a small overclock but nothing crazy so was thinking something simple like the Arctic Liquid Freezer 120 but wasn't sure if that would be the best choice based on my system spec / case etc.

I haven't used the Evolv ATX before and i know it has the dedicated rail up top for larger radiators so want to ensure i get what ever would be best to finish the build.

Appreciate the help guys!


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Insaniac*
> 
> Howdy folks.
> 
> I recently finished picking out some upgrade parts for my system and a big part of that was my new case the Phanteks Evolv ATX. I now have everything except for a CPU cooler and would like some recommendations on what would be best with the rest of my system in mind with the new case.
> 
> Below you can see a full breakdown of the parts in my system.
> I previously had the H100i which was good but kind of loud. I was thinking of doing a small overclock but nothing crazy so was thinking something simple like the Arctic Liquid Freezer 120 but wasn't sure if that would be the best choice based on my system spec / case etc.
> 
> I haven't used the Evolv ATX before and i know it has the dedicated rail up top for larger radiators so want to ensure i get what ever would be best to finish the build.
> 
> Appreciate the help guys!


Stay away from the CLCs, especially if you prefer not having it sound like a jet. If you want simple liquid, go to a Swiftech unit.


----------



## LinusBE

The stock Corsair fans are indeed way too loud, but you can replace them with something a bit quieter. What you do have to keep in mind is pump noise. The pump of my H100i was by far the loudest component in my system and it wasn't broken or anything. I now have a custom loop with a D5 and that one is just not audible.

I'm switching to the Evolv ATX TG soon and I have a question: can you fit both the HDD cage in the bottom and a 280 rad in the front? If not I'll have to put my 280 in the top and 240 in the bottom because otherwise I won't have room for my HDD.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LinusBE*
> 
> The stock Corsair fans are indeed way too loud, but you can replace them with something a bit quieter. What you do have to keep in mind is pump noise. The pump of my H100i was by far the loudest component in my system and it wasn't broken or anything. I now have a custom loop with a D5 and that one is just not audible.
> 
> I'm switching to the Evolv ATX TG soon and I have a question: can you fit both the HDD cage in the bottom and a 280 rad in the front? If not I'll have to put my 280 in the top and 240 in the bottom because otherwise I won't have room for my HDD.


A 280 fits with no issue in the front with the HDD cage in.

As far as your CLC assessment, I am going to wholly disagree. Yes, you can change to quieter fans but performance decreases accordingly. The current crop of CLC are made of garbage components that rely on massive airflow to make up for it. Taking your approach leaves you spending $150 on a CLC that performs like a $49 air cooler, just with more noise. $139 gets you a Swiftech h220-X2 that offers better performance, far less noise and actually looks like a liquid cooler.


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Insaniac*
> 
> Howdy folks.
> 
> I recently finished picking out some upgrade parts for my system and a big part of that was my new case the Phanteks Evolv ATX. I now have everything except for a CPU cooler and would like some recommendations on what would be best with the rest of my system in mind with the new case.
> 
> Below you can see a full breakdown of the parts in my system.
> I previously had the H100i which was good but kind of loud. I was thinking of doing a small overclock but nothing crazy so was thinking something simple like the Arctic Liquid Freezer 120 but wasn't sure if that would be the best choice based on my system spec / case etc.
> 
> I haven't used the Evolv ATX before and i know it has the dedicated rail up top for larger radiators so want to ensure i get what ever would be best to finish the build.
> 
> Appreciate the help guys!


Besides that the PSU you picked is MASSIVE overkill (A good 400 watt PSU could power your whole system with power to spare) it also lacks any hybrid fan mode which means the PSU fan will always be on even in ilde
If you want hybrid fan mode you either have to get a lower wattage G2 a P2 or a Corsair RMx instead.

Get a good 550 watt PSU you dont need more then that.


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> Besides that the PSU you picked is MASSIVE overkill (A good 400 watt PSU could power your whole system with power to spare) it also lacks any hybrid fan mode which means the PSU fan will always be on even in ilde
> If you want hybrid fan mode you either have to get a lower wattage G2 a P2 or a Corsair RMx instead.
> 
> Get a good 550 watt PSU you dont need more then that.


I have an EVGA G2 Supernova 550 watt and it is excellent. Very quite.


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rfarmer*
> 
> I have an EVGA G2 Supernova 550 watt and it is excellent. Very quite.


The G2´s above 850 watts does not have hybrid fan mode like the models below 850 watt does
Which means that the fan will always be on and the amount of people that complain about the lack of hybrid fan mode on those seems endless.


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> A 280 fits with no issue in the front with the HDD cage in.
> 
> As far as your CLC assessment, I am going to wholly disagree. Yes, you can change to quieter fans but performance decreases accordingly. The current crop of CLC are made of garbage components that rely on massive airflow to make up for it. Taking your approach leaves you spending $150 on a CLC that performs like a $49 air cooler, just with more noise. $139 gets you a Swiftech h220-X2 that offers better performance, far less noise and actually looks like a liquid cooler.


My Swiftech H240X (280MM) does not work with the HDD cage in. You can use the single bottom mount with the sold separately 3.5 cage.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> My Swiftech H240X (280MM) does not work with the HDD cage in. You can use the single bottom mount with the sold separately 3.5 cage.


That is an entirely different matter due to the reservoir and pump. I had an Alphacool UT60 in the front with no issues at all.


----------



## michael-ocn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Insaniac*
> 
> Howdy folks.
> 
> I recently finished picking out some upgrade parts for my system and a big part of that was my new case the Phanteks Evolv ATX. I now have everything except for a CPU cooler and would like some recommendations on what would be best with the rest of my system in mind with the new case.
> 
> Below you can see a full breakdown of the parts in my system.
> I previously had the H100i which was good but kind of loud. I was thinking of doing a small overclock but nothing crazy so was thinking something simple like the Arctic Liquid Freezer 120 but wasn't sure if that would be the best choice based on my system spec / case etc.
> 
> I haven't used the Evolv ATX before and i know it has the dedicated rail up top for larger radiators so want to ensure i get what ever would be best to finish the build.
> 
> Appreciate the help guys!


If you're only going for a mild overclock, keep it simple, get a nice quiet capable air cooler. Will save you some money too. Maybe something like a DarkRock Pro 3, Noctua NH-D15 or D14, or one of the Cryorigs, or the really nice phanteks air cooler, PH-TC14PE

Also, like shilka said, your psu is way overkill. If you already own it, that's one thing, but if your buying new... you could save some money there too. 550W would probably be about right, anything over 750 is definitely overkill.


----------



## rx7racer

Well I finally Got my build together, surprised by the room that was there yet still a bit small. Over all I ahve to say it went smooth and this Enthoo itx was a fun build.



I can't believe I squeezed it all in there.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Insaniac*
> 
> Howdy folks.
> 
> I recently finished picking out some upgrade parts for my system and a big part of that was my new case the Phanteks Evolv ATX. I now have everything except for a CPU cooler and would like some recommendations on what would be best with the rest of my system in mind with the new case.
> 
> Below you can see a full breakdown of the parts in my system.
> I previously had the H100i which was good but kind of loud. I was thinking of doing a small overclock but nothing crazy so was thinking something simple like the Arctic Liquid Freezer 120 but wasn't sure if that would be the best choice based on my system spec / case etc.
> 
> I haven't used the Evolv ATX before and i know it has the dedicated rail up top for larger radiators so want to ensure i get what ever would be best to finish the build.
> 
> Appreciate the help guys!


I'm using a black PH-TC14PE in my Evolv ATX. The new PH-F140HP_II fans do a great job of cooling i7 [email protected] at very quiet sound level. I can't hear it unless over 95% load, and then it is just audible so I know it's running.


----------



## Gabe1




----------



## Slap Dash

So I fell in love with the Phanteks Enthoo Evolv ATX TG a few weeks back.. So needles to say i went on a bit of a spending spree yesterday in prep to move to it from my ancient 800D once it arrives.

Spending list:

Phanteks Enthoo Evolv ATX Tempered Glass Anthracite Gray
XSPC EX240 Dual Fan 240mm Radiator
XSPC EX360 Triple Fan 360mm Radiator
XSPC Photon D5 Glass 170 Tube Reservoir (Includes Single D5 12V Pump)
Several new fittings & other miscellaneous things.

Currently working out the intricacies as I type, Here's what I got thus far.. Still unsure if I will stick with current flexi tubing or go for PETG


----------



## dlewbell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabe1*
> 
> Phanteks Enthoo Pro
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Pictures


Are you using 2x200mm front intakes? I think that's the opposite direction most of us take. Any pictures of the front? Is the top part just open, or did you set up a custom grill/filter? What speeds to you run them at?


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slap Dash*
> 
> So I fell in love with the Phanteks Enthoo Evolv ATX TG a few weeks back.. So needles to say i went on a bit of a spending spree yesterday in prep to move to it from my ancient 800D once it arrives.
> 
> Spending list:
> 
> Phanteks Enthoo Evolv ATX Tempered Glass Anthracite Gray
> XSPC EX240 Dual Fan 240mm Radiator
> XSPC EX360 Triple Fan 360mm Radiator
> XSPC Photon D5 Glass 170 Tube Reservoir (Includes Single D5 12V Pump)
> Several new fittings & other miscellaneous things.
> 
> Currently working out the intricacies as I type, Here's what I got thus far.. Still unsure if I will stick with current flexi tubing or go for PETG


I don't see any issues. I assume you already have the rads?

For reference though, your front rad would be forward a bit more and your GPU is a bit longer. There would be space for your res... but it won't be as roomy as pictured. Also, up top, you have to account for the fans.


----------



## Gabe1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dlewbell*
> 
> Are you using 2x200mm front intakes? I think that's the opposite direction most of us take. Any pictures of the front? Is the top part just open, or did you set up a custom grill/filter? What speeds to you run them at?


Yes that is two 200mm fans, the front looks completely stock because it is. The upper fan gets it's air from the lower grill, there is a wide space in there and it works good, I can't feel any difference between the two
I did install a two stage filter in the front from top (drive bay) to bottom, you can see the pink filter below the lower fan.
The fans are running at stock speeds, so is the rear 140, I can't hear any of them. Those 200mm fans turn pretty slow.
I have three 120's on the radiator blowing out, I can't hear them either unless I'm stress testing the cpu and even then they are not loud.
I had a 240mm radiator in the bottom but had to remove it ti fit a SilverStone 1500 watt supply.,
The 140 below the video card keeps the M.2 951 drive cooler, I have some heat sinks coming for it because M.2 drives are really hot.


----------



## Slap Dash

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> I don't see any issues. I assume you already have the rads?
> 
> For reference though, your front rad would be forward a bit more and your GPU is a bit longer. There would be space for your res... but it won't be as roomy as pictured. Also, up top, you have to account for the fans.


Rads are on there way, i figured my current RX360 will be a little too large.. .

Definitely realize some placements might not be 100% accurate in scale, but its more just a generalization & gives a basic layout of my plan. Fans have also been factored in & would also protrude slightly with some measurements..

I may make a build thread, see how we go.. Need to wait for delivery of parts now & being in Australia I reckon a solid 1-2 weeks, sigh!


----------



## LinusBE

I also ordered an Evolv ATX TG in Europe (Belgium) last week. All stores are out of stock currently. Mine is scheduled to arrive August 5th at Caseking.de. I couldn't find any store that has it earlier than that.


----------



## tongerks

here's mine


----------



## Revan654

a Quick Question: The Phanteks Enthoo Evolv ATX Glass specs says it has room for 8 3.5 drives. On the back side / bottom of the case. How many 3.5 drives can you fit?


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slap Dash*
> 
> So I fell in love with the Phanteks Enthoo Evolv ATX TG a few weeks back.. So needles to say i went on a bit of a spending spree yesterday in prep to move to it from my ancient 800D once it arrives.
> 
> Spending list:
> 
> Phanteks Enthoo Evolv ATX Tempered Glass Anthracite Gray
> XSPC EX240 Dual Fan 240mm Radiator
> XSPC EX360 Triple Fan 360mm Radiator
> XSPC Photon D5 Glass 170 Tube Reservoir (Includes Single D5 12V Pump)
> Several new fittings & other miscellaneous things.
> 
> Currently working out the intricacies as I type, Here's what I got thus far.. Still unsure if I will stick with current flexi tubing or go for PETG


I have done the Photon 170 in that location with a 240EX in the front and GTX 780 (which is the same size as the 980Ti with a block). Your scale is off, but it will fit. Keep a couple of things in mind - it may be tight above the Photon getting the plug in and out depending on positioning and how much of the photon you can get through the midplate opening, and the Photons air lock unless you fill them with a wash bottle and get the nozzle past the anti-turbulance holes.


----------



## Slap Dash

Thanks for the heads up mate, I didn't realize the fill port & airlock is designed in such a way, it really isn't as simple in just filling the thing up.. Being the case a fill bottle like this will be used.



As previously said the Scale is admittedly off.. But its more for generalist idea of things.

Updated it again but more than likely still off in scaling.



I play the waiting game now... Parts fingers crossed by end of the week!


----------



## paskowitz

For anyone that is interested, here is a 99% to scale schematic of the Evolv ATX. I have attached it as a downsampled PDF, but if anyone wants a different or higher quality file type let me know. This was taken directly from the Evolv ATX PDF Manual from Phantek's website.

PhanteksEnthooEvolvATXtoScaleSchematic.pdf 395k .pdf file


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> For anyone that is interested, here is a 99% to scale schematic of the Evolv ATX. I have attached it as a downsampled PDF, but if anyone wants a different or higher quality file type let me know. This was taken directly from the Evolv ATX PDF Manual from Phantek's website.
> 
> PhanteksEnthooEvolvATXtoScaleSchematic.pdf 395k .pdf file


Good one!








+ rep

We can use a larger file size no problem. I can even post it with link in 1st post of thread where lots of these kinds of things are.


----------



## rx7racer

Anyone using the Enthoo Evolv ITX have any recommended fan placement and flow pattern.

Been dialing mine in with a 240 rad in front with Artic F12 pwm's as intake( nope, wasn't thinking and need to swap that I think) and one single fan on rear as exhaust. Then for the top I have 240mm rad with 2 more Arctic F12 pwm's which was exhaust.

Finding after a hour gaming session inside case temps are just way too high and temps are going crazy all around making pump hot let alone my HDD's and SSD's. Was peaking 54*c inside case temp within half hour.

So essentially I'm not getting my fans set to let the case breathe very well. I'm debating cutting top lid for top rad fans to breathe.

But before any cutting thought I'd ask and see what flow most others used as I have seen a good few compact wc'ing builds done through here with the Evolv ITX.

Appreciate any opinions and experiences.


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rx7racer*
> 
> Anyone using the Enthoo Evolv ITX have any recommended fan placement and flow pattern.
> 
> Been dialing mine in with a 240 rad in front with Artic F12 pwm's as intake( nope, wasn't thinking and need to swap that I think) and one single fan on rear as exhaust. Then for the top I have 240mm rad with 2 more Arctic F12 pwm's which was exhaust.
> 
> Finding after a hour gaming session inside case temps are just way too high and temps are going crazy all around making pump hot let alone my HDD's and SSD's. Was peaking 54*c inside case temp within half hour.
> 
> So essentially I'm not getting my fans set to let the case breathe very well. I'm debating cutting top lid for top rad fans to breathe.
> 
> But before any cutting thought I'd ask and see what flow most others used as I have seen a good few compact wc'ing builds done through here with the Evolv ITX.
> 
> Appreciate any opinions and experiences.




The guys with Evolv ATX have found that you need to cover the open area around your radiator mounted to the top bracket, this keeps hot air from reentering the case.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rx7racer*
> 
> Anyone using the Enthoo Evolv ITX have any recommended fan placement and flow pattern.
> 
> Been dialing mine in with a 240 rad in front with Artic F12 pwm's as intake( nope, wasn't thinking and need to swap that I think) and one single fan on rear as exhaust. Then for the top I have 240mm rad with 2 more Arctic F12 pwm's which was exhaust.
> 
> Finding after a hour gaming session inside case temps are just way too high and temps are going crazy all around making pump hot let alone my HDD's and SSD's. Was peaking 54*c inside case temp within half hour.
> 
> So essentially I'm not getting my fans set to let the case breathe very well. I'm debating cutting top lid for top rad fans to breathe.
> 
> But before any cutting thought I'd ask and see what flow most others used as I have seen a good few compact wc'ing builds done through here with the Evolv ITX.
> 
> Appreciate any opinions and experiences.


First and foremost, radiator needs to be exhaust, not intake. The way it is now you are making your case an ITX convection oven.









We really need to know what your system is. Not knowing makes it kinda hard to know what to suggest. My crystal ball is on the fritz, and 'mirror, mirror on the wall' isn't working either.


----------



## eaglesfan398

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slap Dash*
> 
> Thanks for the heads up mate, I didn't realize the fill port & airlock is designed in such a way, it really isn't as simple in just filling the thing up.. Being the case a fill bottle like this will be used.
> 
> 
> 
> As previously said the Scale is admittedly off.. But its more for generalist idea of things.
> 
> Updated it again but more than likely still off in scaling.
> 
> 
> 
> I play the waiting game now... Parts fingers crossed by end of the week!


My build is almost identical but I only have one card. I ended up installing only two fans on the top due to the ability to fill. If you look at my picture before it will give you a good idea how everything fits.


----------



## rx7racer

Thank rfarmer, I saw that but with my 240 rad up top there is no space to cover so I'm assuming I'm good there.

And as doyll said, I do need to switch my front rad and fan setup to exhaust. It's pretty much a convection oven for sure haha









And my build is just a simple i7 6700 with a Fury, nothing special but packing a lot of heat apparently because my 2 240mm rads can't handle them.

I know it's all about my fan placement though. My other Enthoo Evolve works fine but I have it setup way different with rear 140 fan being a 140mm AIO setup on a AMD APU so little case and little heat working fine.

Thought I'd go for a beastly ITX rig setup but not liking how it's handling the heat for this.

Picture of my clusterf rig on this post here. http://www.overclock.net/t/1418637/official-case-phanteks-case-club-for-lovers-owners/14420#post_25393042

Not pictured there is my rear 120mm exhaust fan. Thinking about swapping that to a panaflo or ultra kaze I have laying around, that should get some air exhausting, but I guess I'll have to deal with noise









I guess what I'm getting at is even though I have more air being pulled out which means I should have negative pressure and be getting the heat pulled out I'm doing nothing but building the heat up.

I've got a EK coolstream SE coming to replace the Black Ice GTX rad and give me more space to do a push/pull fan setup for the top. Aside from that maybe my idea of a beastly ITX rig just isn't going to work in this case.

All fans set to exhaust maybe and just force huge negative pressure? Is that how most are doing it with the Evolv ITX?

Just gaining idea's before I have to tear my loop down, I can't change anything except top rad fans as of now due to space and tubing conflicts hahaha


----------



## klg1128

Hello all. Are there any suggestions for good 140mm intake fans for the front of the Eclipse P400s? I'd like good airflow, but more importantly silence. I originally got 2 Nanoxia Deep Silence 140mm NDS140-1800 fans, but one of them crapped out already in less than 2 weeks. It started making a horrible rattling sound suddenly. I found that when I remove the front panel it doesn't make the rattling noise continuously, but sporadically. I assume it isn't comfortable in a high pressure zone since the front panel essentially has 2 slots with dust filters for openings. I'll take any suggestions. Also, I've been eyeing this fan: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA68V21E0614
be quiet! pure wings 2


----------



## michael-ocn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *klg1128*
> 
> Hello all. Are there any suggestions for good 140mm intake fans for the front of the Eclipse P400s? I'd like good airflow, but more importantly silence. I originally got 2 Nanoxia Deep Silence 140mm NDS140-1800 fans, but one of them crapped out already in less than 2 weeks. It started making a horrible rattling sound suddenly. I found that when I remove the front panel it doesn't make the rattling noise continuously, but sporadically. I assume it isn't comfortable in a high pressure zone since the front panel essentially has 2 slots with dust filters for openings. I'll take any suggestions. Also, I've been eyeing this fan: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA68V21E0614
> be quiet! pure wings 2


phanteks makes very nice 140mm fans, like the PH-F140SP

That be quiet fan doesnt look like it'd make good static pressure, the fan blades are spaced too far apart for that. A noiseblocker eloop probably could be a good case fan too, or maybe a noctua A14 or P14,.


----------



## pez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tongerks*
> 
> 
> 
> here's mine


Another Pro M brother! Yay! Looking good







.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rx7racer*
> 
> Thank rfarmer, I saw that but with my 240 rad up top there is no space to cover so I'm assuming I'm good there.
> 
> And as doyll said, I do need to switch my front rad and fan setup to exhaust. It's pretty much a convection oven for sure haha
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And my build is just a simple i7 6700 with a Fury, nothing special but packing a lot of heat apparently because my 2 240mm rads can't handle them.
> 
> I know it's all about my fan placement though. My other Enthoo Evolve works fine but I have it setup way different with rear 140 fan being a 140mm AIO setup on a AMD APU so little case and little heat working fine.
> 
> Thought I'd go for a beastly ITX rig setup but not liking how it's handling the heat for this.
> 
> Picture of my clusterf rig on this post here. http://www.overclock.net/t/1418637/official-case-phanteks-case-club-for-lovers-owners/14420#post_25393042
> 
> Not pictured there is my rear 120mm exhaust fan. Thinking about swapping that to a panaflo or ultra kaze I have laying around, that should get some air exhausting, but I guess I'll have to deal with noise
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I guess what I'm getting at is even though I have more air being pulled out which means I should have negative pressure and be getting the heat pulled out I'm doing nothing but building the heat up.
> 
> I've got a EK coolstream SE coming to replace the Black Ice GTX rad and give me more space to do a push/pull fan setup for the top. Aside from that maybe my idea of a beastly ITX rig just isn't going to work in this case.
> 
> All fans set to exhaust maybe and just force huge negative pressure? Is that how most are doing it with the Evolv ITX?
> 
> Just gaining idea's before I have to tear my loop down, I can't change anything except top rad fans as of now due to space and tubing conflicts hahaha


Was going to chime in, but I'm just aircooling mine







. The old school air cooling way is working great for me. 2 140SPs as intake and then I have a TC14PE on the GPU that happens to be so close to the exhaust that it pretty much acts as the exhaust fan







. Positive pressure. Blower style on GPU as well.

Also excuse my ignorance, but wouldn't your top rad alone be enough to cool both of your components? I'm a noob to WC'ing, so I'm not sure where 'overkill' comes in to play if it exists at all







. This is OCN, however







.


----------



## rx7racer

Yeah I thought my rad space was plenty too Pez, hahahahahaha, it should be a tad overkill but that's not working out for me.

I've thought and thought, I think my issue is my front little cheap magicool 240mm is doing bulk of heat to air transfer more so than my black ice gtx. Don't think the F12's have it in them to get through it's fins very well, not much air movement after doing some experimenting. Tossed on my ultra kaze and panaflo for some good ol' wind tunnel sound effects and got some improvement still doing exhaust, open case they are fine.

So now I'm thinking go push exhaust setup with the EK CoolStream SE 240mm and 2 scythe slip streams when it arrives at the front. Then still have my Arctic F12's on the magicool 240mm rad with all open slots in top tray taped up, after looking there are still small slots on the edges that can let hot air back down in side main area. And of course then have rear 120mmx38mm scythe ultra kaze as intake.

After looking and searching hints and tips from other itx builds I don't see any other way for it to work. A good few have intake on front even with a rad but currently I don't think I like that option, not enough room to equalize and absorb that heat to prevent too much build up.

Of course some of the obstacle I'm running into is I still want no compromise on my OC'ing, so running this 6700 at 4.6GHz right now with 1.35vcore, totally fine at this setting with open case. Have tested up to 4.9GHz but temps get in the way because voltage takes a nice hit and it needs 1.475vcore.

Of course my Fury is dumping tons of heat as well oc'ed the small bit it is. Just need to get temp stability, I'll be redoing my loop and fan setup probably wed. so I'll post back up what I ended up figuring out and results.


----------



## klg1128

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *michael-ocn*
> 
> phanteks makes very nice 140mm fans, like the PH-F140SP
> 
> That be quiet fan doesnt look like it'd make good static pressure, the fan blades are spaced too far apart for that. A noiseblocker eloop probably could be a good case fan too, or maybe a noctua A14 or P14,.


I think I may go with a pair of the Phanteks, I was deciding between this and a Cougar CFV14HB. Thanks for the help!


----------



## pez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rx7racer*
> 
> Yeah I thought my rad space was plenty too Pez, hahahahahaha, it should be a tad overkill but that's not working out for me.
> 
> I've thought and thought, I think my issue is my front little cheap magicool 240mm is doing bulk of heat to air transfer more so than my black ice gtx. Don't think the F12's have it in them to get through it's fins very well, not much air movement after doing some experimenting. Tossed on my ultra kaze and panaflo for some good ol' wind tunnel sound effects and got some improvement still doing exhaust, open case they are fine.
> 
> So now I'm thinking go push exhaust setup with the EK CoolStream SE 240mm and 2 scythe slip streams when it arrives at the front. Then still have my Arctic F12's on the magicool 240mm rad with all open slots in top tray taped up, after looking there are still small slots on the edges that can let hot air back down in side main area. And of course then have rear 120mmx38mm scythe ultra kaze as intake.
> 
> After looking and searching hints and tips from other itx builds I don't see any other way for it to work. A good few have intake on front even with a rad but currently I don't think I like that option, not enough room to equalize and absorb that heat to prevent too much build up.
> 
> Of course some of the obstacle I'm running into is I still want no compromise on my OC'ing, so running this 6700 at 4.6GHz right now with 1.35vcore, totally fine at this setting with open case. Have tested up to 4.9GHz but temps get in the way because voltage takes a nice hit and it needs 1.475vcore.
> 
> Of course my Fury is dumping tons of heat as well oc'ed the small bit it is. Just need to get temp stability, I'll be redoing my loop and fan setup probably wed. so I'll post back up what I ended up figuring out and results.


Keep us updated. It may be a sin to say it here, but I definitely think for your situation, a case like the Nano S from Fractal almost seem to be a bit more functional







. Don't kill me doyll and ciarlatano







.


----------



## michael-ocn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pez*
> 
> Keep us updated. It may be a sin to say it here, but I definitely think for your situation, a case like the Nano S from Fractal almost seem to be a bit more functional
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Don't kill me doyll and ciarlatano
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


pardon my heresy as well, but the nzxt mantra looks like it could work well too (although maybe it's not all that small for an itx case)


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pez*
> 
> Keep us updated. It may be a sin to say it here, but I definitely think for your situation, a case like the Nano S from Fractal almost seem to be a bit more functional
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Don't kill me doyll and ciarlatano
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


I agree with you.









The features of the Evolv ITX sometimes do nothing but get in the way, and that is the case here. Fractal makes great cases.


----------



## pez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *michael-ocn*
> 
> pardon my heresy as well, but the nzxt mantra looks like it could work well too (although maybe it's not all that small for an itx case)


Well this was based on my bias as well







. I've mulled over the idea of doing an ITX build in a Nano S







. I don't care for the NZXT case too much as it has the same limiting factors as the Evolv ITX (for this scenario) and is 'bulkier'.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> I agree with you.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The features of the Evolv ITX sometimes do nothing but get in the way, and that is the case here. Fractal makes great cases.


Agreed. Anything more than a single rad in the Evolv ITX seems to be a bit restricting.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *michael-ocn*
> 
> pardon my heresy as well, but the nzxt mantra looks like it could work well too (although maybe it's not all that small for an itx case)


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pez*
> 
> Well this was based on my bias as well
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . I've mulled over the idea of doing an ITX build in a Nano S
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . I don't care for the NZXT case too much as it has the same limiting factors as the Evolv ITX (for this scenario) and is 'bulkier'.
> Agreed. Anything more than a single rad in the Evolv ITX seems to be a bit restricting.


The other thing here is the construction. I like the design of a lot of NZXT cases (the interior and functionality, not necessarily the outside), but if you are used to Phanteks, Fractal and Silverstone the build and materials is lacking. They also tend to have pretty poor airflow.


----------



## doyll

Am I correct to think the P400 uses PH-F120XP fans? Can't seem to find specs of what they actually are anywhere.


----------



## Duality92

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Am I correct to think the P400 uses PH-F120XP fans? Can't seem to find specs of what they actually are anywhere.



These are the fans used stock in the P400.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Duality92*
> 
> 
> These are the fans used stock in the P400.


Well it's not one I'm familiar with a model number for.


----------



## dlewbell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Duality92*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Picture
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These are the fans used stock in the P400.


I don't know what it is either. Of their current fans, the PH-F120MP is the only one with 7 fan blades, but it is PWM typically. The frame looks like the one from the PH-F120HP included with the PH-TC12DX cooler, except the motor mount has straight legs instead of curved. It looks like they're using a newer budget fan just for those cases.
Edited to move picture inside spoiler.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Duality92*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These are the fans used stock in the P400.


Well, I have every cooler, fan and case that Phanteks has ever marketed excepting the P400.....and I have never seen that fan before. At least not with the Phanteks name on it. It looks like an oem I have seen in a couple of other applications, but can't be sure from the photo.


----------



## doyll

PH-F120SP & PH-F120XP look like this . . . PH-F120MP looks like this
 

Neither have a fan that looks anything like the P400 case fan.
P400 case fan has a much more curved / hooked blade design.


----------



## PureBlackFire

man I always assumed the P400 just comes with some OEM throw away fans. look like those $4 masscool fans you get at microcenter.


----------



## pez

Considering a EKWB Predator or a Swiftech H2X0 X2 Prestige unit, but wondering what might be best for my system. My GPUs put off quite a bit of heat to the point that I'm afraid getting rid of the rear exhaust in lieu of an EKWB 360 might starve me of some much needed airflow. Ideally I wanted to do the Swiftech H240 X2 Prestige, but I have yet to see it come in stock in the last few months. I don't think I'd be too upset with a 240mm unit, and I'd definitely not have any issues with a rear fan being in place. Thoughts?


----------



## michael-ocn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pez*
> 
> Considering a EKWB Predator or a Swiftech H2X0 X2 Prestige unit, but wondering what might be best for my system. My GPUs put off quite a bit of heat to the point that I'm afraid getting rid of the rear exhaust in lieu of an EKWB 360 might starve me of some much needed airflow. Ideally I wanted to do the Swiftech H240 X2 Prestige, but I have yet to see it come in stock in the last few months. I don't think I'd be too upset with a 240mm unit, and I'd definitely not have any issues with a rear fan being in place. Thoughts?


The h240x2 prestige and regular are in stock at performance-pcs. Definitely keep the rear fan.

Not too long ago swifttech had the previous model instock at a nice discount, but not right now, probably gone for good.


----------



## pez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *michael-ocn*
> 
> The h240x2 prestige and regular are in stock at performance-pcs. Definitely keep the rear fan.
> 
> Not too long ago swifttech had the previous model instock at a nice discount, but not right now, probably gone for good.


Good find! I didn't even think to look there







. Hopefully they stay in stock long enough for me to request it for the Bday







. EK has a 280mm 'starter' kit that saves a little money, but is still around $370-ish. I'm wondering if I want to go ahead and make that leap. It's a little more comforting knowing that the entire kit is all 'custom' parts, but still assembled to work properly.


----------



## michael-ocn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pez*
> 
> Good find! I didn't even think to look there
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Hopefully they stay in stock long enough for me to request it for the Bday
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . EK has a 280mm 'starter' kit that saves a little money, but is still around $370-ish. I'm wondering if I want to go ahead and make that leap. It's a little more comforting knowing that the entire kit is all 'custom' parts, but still assembled to work properly.


I think performance-pcs is pretty well stocked by swiftech and gigaparts is another online vendor that carries them (gigaparts is out of stock right now). I've ordered stuff from both of those sites. They're ok.

The ek kits do look nice and the separate res will definitely help with refills, but if your space constrained, i think having the res on the rad is a nice feature.


----------



## pez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *michael-ocn*
> 
> I think performance-pcs is pretty well stocked by swiftech and gigaparts is another online vendor that carries them (gigaparts is out of stock right now). I've ordered stuff from both of those sites. They're ok.
> 
> The ek kits do look nice and the separate res will definitely help with refills, but if your space constrained, i think having the res on the rad is a nice feature.


Very true. As it stands, I've got a lot of open space on the right side







. I'm just thinking it might be time to put my water cooling optimized case to real use







.


----------



## OneFunGenesis

Hi all,

I just wanted to chime in about the Pro M Acrylic. I was all worried about the front side intakes not being filtered like most people here and on the interwebs have complained of. I am happy to say that they seem to have fixed this problem! They have added screen to filter the side intake...the problem is that it is not removable so it will be damn near impossible to clean. See pics below.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!









Just thought I would let the community know


----------



## Duality92

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneFunGenesis*
> 
> Hi all,
> 
> I just wanted to chime in about the Pro M Acrylic. I was all worried about the front side intakes not being filtered like most people here and on the interwebs have complained of. I am happy to say that they seem to have fixed this problem! They have added screen to filter the side intake...the problem is that it is not removable so it will be damn near impossible to clean. See pics below.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just thought I would let the community know


blow air in the opposite direction of air flow


----------



## OneFunGenesis

yep! Just solves a problem we have all be complaining about


----------



## pez

Yep, I tried to get doyll to document my pics on this







. The front panel is easy enough to take off that it makes cleaning them from the inside fairly easy. The only 'flaw' that still exists is the bottom. It's not filtered, but the bulk of the air it's getting is being filtered







.


----------



## OneFunGenesis

yea, I noticed the bottom is not being filtered. Not a huge deal though.

Quick positive pressure question though:

should I set up the front and top as intake and have the rear be the only exhaust? Or should I do rear and front intake, top exhaust? Top has 240mm rad and back has 120mm rad.

Thanks!


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pez*
> 
> Yep, I tried to get doyll to document my pics on this
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . The front panel is easy enough to take off that it makes cleaning them from the inside fairly easy. The only 'flaw' that still exists is the bottom. It's not filtered, but the bulk of the air it's getting is being filtered
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


What didn't I document? Did I drop the ball on something .. again?


----------



## pez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> What didn't I document? Did I drop the ball on something .. again?


Haha no, I was just calling you out to give you a hard time for no reason







.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pez*
> 
> Haha no, I was just calling you out to give you a hard time for no reason
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


Don't scare me like that!


----------



## Chiobe

There is plenty of place in the Primo. 320mm reservoir, 60mm radiators with 25mm fans and still room for fittings.


But for some reason, so wont a 130mm wide radiator fit (just placed in atm), even with the panel removed. The mid wall is too close to the fan mounting, so I need to be a bit creative till I can find a good radiator that fits properly (or several smaller once).


----------



## Gabe1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dlewbell*
> 
> Are you using 2x200mm front intakes? I think that's the opposite direction most of us take. Any pictures of the front? Is the top part just open, or did you set up a custom grill/filter? What speeds to you run them at?


I added the front filter set up, those black rods are carbon fiber to keep the filter out of the fan. I replaced the upper filter and washed the lower.


----------



## OneFunGenesis

Quick positive pressure question though:

should I set up the front and top as intake and have the rear be the only exhaust? Or should I do rear and front intake, top exhaust? Top has 240mm rad and back has 120mm rad

Just re-posting this to get a quick answer as I am building tomorrow. Thanks


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneFunGenesis*
> 
> Hi all,
> 
> I just wanted to chime in about the Pro M Acrylic. I was all worried about the front side intakes not being filtered like most people here and on the interwebs have complained of. I am happy to say that they seem to have fixed this problem! They have added screen to filter the side intake...the problem is that it is not removable so it will be damn near impossible to clean. See pics below.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just thought I would let the community know


Front filter is removable. Pretty sure there are 4 clips, 2x on sides in about the middle and 1 each top and bottom. Just unclip the filter from them and take it out.


----------



## Gabe1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneFunGenesis*
> 
> Quick positive pressure question though:
> 
> should I set up the front and top as intake and have the rear be the only exhaust? Or should I do rear and front intake, top exhaust? Top has 240mm rad and back has 120mm rad
> 
> Just re-posting this to get a quick answer as I am building tomorrow. Thanks


Exhaust on the rads, intake on the front and bottom (E. pro)


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneFunGenesis*
> 
> Quick positive pressure question though:
> 
> should I set up the front and top as intake and have the rear be the only exhaust? Or should I do rear and front intake, top exhaust? Top has 240mm rad and back has 120mm rad
> 
> Just re-posting this to get a quick answer as I am building tomorrow. Thanks


You want a least equal vent area for intake versus exhaust, more exhaust area is better. With good intake fans there is no need for exhaust fans when exhaust vent area is 10-20% more than intake area.

With radiators things change because unless everything is water cooled it is best to have radiators as exhaust .. so they don't heat up the air being used by air cooled components and thereby increasing their operating temperature.

You have a a 120mm radiator and a 240mm radiator, so 3x 120mm fans exhaust. That is about the same flow as 3x 120mm front intakes or 2x 140mm front intakes. What fans are you planning to use on radiators and what ones for case? Ideally you want intakes to be moving a little more air than radiator fans so there is a little air leaking out of case's other holes. This will keep dust at a minimum.


----------



## OneFunGenesis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Front filter is removable. Pretty sure there are 4 clips, 2x on sides in about the middle and 1 each top and bottom. Just unclip the filter from them and take it out.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Yes, I know there are clips there. The side vents are what do not have clips. But blowing them out shouldn't be a problem really. Thanks!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabe1*
> 
> Exhaust on the rads, intake on the front and bottom (E. pro)


Thank you. I dont have a bottom intake though








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> You want a least equal vent area for intake versus exhaust, more exhaust area is better. With good intake fans there is no need for exhaust fans when exhaust vent area is 10-20% more than intake area.
> 
> With radiators things change because unless everything is water cooled it is best to have radiators as exhaust .. so they don't heat up the air being used by air cooled components and thereby increasing their operating temperature.
> 
> You have a a 120mm radiator and a 240mm radiator, so 3x 120mm fans exhaust. That is about the same flow as 3x 120mm front intakes or 2x 140mm front intakes. What fans are you planning to use on radiators and what ones for case? Ideally you want intakes to be moving a little more air than radiator fans so there is a little air leaking out of case's other holes. This will keep dust at a minimum.


This is the information I was looking for. CPU and graphics card is on water. The only thing that needs air cooling is the VRM and Chipset for my MOBO (the chipset actually gets hot on the one I bought...it is a known issue).

Radiator fans are NB E-Loop knock-offs (came with the radiators) and the intakes are 2 x 140mm Phanteks PH-F140XP. So hopefully that will create equal pressure?


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneFunGenesis*
> 
> [/SPOILER]
> Yes, I know there are clips there. The side vents are what do not have clips. But blowing them out shouldn't be a problem really. Thanks!
> Thank you. I dont have a bottom intake though
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the information I was looking for. CPU and graphics card is on water. The only thing that needs air cooling is the VRM and Chipset for my MOBO (the chipset actually gets hot on the one I bought...it is a known issue).
> 
> Radiator fans are NB E-Loop knock-offs (came with the radiators) and the intakes are 2 x 140mm Phanteks PH-F140XP. So hopefully that will create equal pressure?


It might. You can check the flow by using incense sticks or cigarette and watch to see if smoke moves away from vents and holes with no fans or is drawn in. You might find "Ways to Better Coolng link in my sig of interests. 1st post is index, click on topics to see them. I suggest starting with the 5th one. It give an overview of airflow basics.


----------



## OneFunGenesis

Thanks, I appreciate the response and the information. I have looked over that thread in the past but will revisit it now. I will also have to pick up some incense to track the flow. I understand how pressure works when there are all equal size fans as my current case has somewhere in the neighborhood of 13 fans creating a nice positive pressure but the game is changed with rads and different sized fans. I appreciate all of the help and will continue on with the build the way I planned it out


----------



## NiKiZ

I ordered a Phanteks Enthoo Pro M Acrylic. I can't wait for it to arrive and finally get a proper case! Too bad it only comes with one SSD bracket and they are pretty expensive. (22€) Oh well, I have double sided tape.


----------



## OneFunGenesis

They are like $9 in the states http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817987001&cm_re=phanteks_ssd_bracket-_-17-987-001-_-Product maybe find someone that can send one to you? 22 is crazy expensive for them


----------



## LinusBE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NiKiZ*
> 
> I ordered a Phanteks Enthoo Pro M Acrylic. I can't wait for it to arrive and finally get a proper case! Too bad it only comes with one SSD bracket and they are pretty expensive. (22€) Oh well, I have double sided tape.


Don't know where you buy your parts from in Finland, but here I can buy them for €6,90.


----------



## NiKiZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneFunGenesis*
> 
> They are like $9 in the states http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817987001&cm_re=phanteks_ssd_bracket-_-17-987-001-_-Product maybe find someone that can send one to you? 22 is crazy expensive for them


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LinusBE*
> 
> Don't know where you buy your parts from in Finland, but here I can buy them for €6,90.


I usually order my parts from Jimm's PC store. I don't know why the price is so high. I found couple of places that sells them for around 10-11€, but they are out of stock right now. Phanteks stuff seems to be out of stock pretty much everywhere. I have to wait 5-10 days for the case, because they have to order more..


----------



## Faster_is_better

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chiobe*
> 
> There is plenty of place in the Primo. 320mm reservoir, 60mm radiators with 25mm fans and still room for fittings.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But for some reason, so wont a 130mm wide radiator fit (just placed in atm), even with the panel removed. The mid wall is too close to the fan mounting, so I need to be a bit creative till I can find a good radiator that fits properly (or several smaller once).


If you remove that grommet on the mid wall, it will get you a few more mm and should let you mount fans on top (if that was your problem).


----------



## Chiobe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Faster_is_better*
> 
> If you remove that grommet on the mid wall, it will get you a few more mm and should let you mount fans on top (if that was your problem).


That is not the problem. The fan mounting holes dont like up with radiator. Its 3-4mm off.
Also, with that radiator so cant I mount it right on the case, as the stop plugs prevent it (3mm from the case in 1 end).

I got it mounted for now, with zip ties. Its not the cleanest, but it will not look that bad when the window is on.
Also, that radiator wont go anywhere, unless the heat effects the zip ties.


----------



## ref

Am I missing something?

I was under the impression the Primo could fit a 480mm radiator in the bottom, as long as the width is less than 125mm?

I got the UT60's specifically for that reason but I'm really having trouble getting it to fit in the bottom of the case...

Does the 5.25 optical bay panel have to be taken off first? Then put back on after it's installed?


----------



## Chiobe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ref*
> 
> Am I missing something?
> 
> I was under the impression the Primo could fit a 480mm radiator in the bottom, as long as the width is less than 125mm?
> 
> I got the UT60's specifically for that reason but I'm really having trouble getting it to fit in the bottom of the case...
> 
> Does the 5.25 optical bay panel have to be taken off first? Then put back on after it's installed?


You most likely have to remove the bay panel, as you cant get it in other wise.
And yeah, you can put the panel back after ward.

For the once on the bottom, so do you only need to remove the fan filters. The top and front once, need the panels off.


----------



## Faster_is_better

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ref*
> 
> Am I missing something?
> 
> I was under the impression the Primo could fit a 480mm radiator in the bottom, as long as the width is less than 125mm?
> 
> I got the UT60's specifically for that reason but I'm really having trouble getting it to fit in the bottom of the case...
> 
> Does the 5.25 optical bay panel have to be taken off first? Then put back on after it's installed?


UT60 x 480 definitely fits. I don't think you have to disassemble the case either. You could remove the front dust filter and slide the rad in from the front, but also I think if you removed the hard drive racks, it will slide in from the side as well.

Several pics of UT60/45 in the bottom on this thread.

ooh 7k post


----------



## Chiobe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Faster_is_better*
> 
> UT60 x 480 definitely fits. I don't think you have to disassemble the case either. You could remove the front dust filter and slide the rad in from the front, but also I think if you removed the hard drive racks, it will slide in from the side as well.
> 
> Several pics of UT60/45 in the bottom on this thread.
> 
> ooh 7k post


Think you will have a hard time getting it through the front, since you need to flip it once its in (fan mounts in the way).

Taking the case apart is easier, since you will have full access to it and can such easier mount everything properly.


----------



## MountainDewMadOScar

SO GOOD


----------



## Chiobe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MountainDewMadOScar*
> 
> SO GOOD
> ]


You could have gone with a smaller case, as that looks almost empty.


----------



## pez

Haha I'm the same kinda way usually, and is the reason I think I'm going to make a move the the Evolv ITX, but the black one with the window just went OOS on Newegg and Amzn







.

I do actually think that looks quite good and clean though. May very well be the configuration I have for a while. It's either I go mITX or load my case with WC'ing







.


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pez*
> 
> Haha I'm the same kinda way usually, and is the reason I think I'm going to make a move the the Evolv ITX, but the black one with the window just went OOS on Newegg and Amzn
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> I do actually think that looks quite good and clean though. May very well be the configuration I have for a while. It's either I go mITX or load my case with WC'ing
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


I've been using itx cases for a few years now, I felt that a single gpu is all I would need. After seeing the results of crossfired RX 480s I wish I had an atx board now.


----------



## pez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rfarmer*
> 
> I've been using itx cases for a few years now, I felt that a single gpu is all I would need. After seeing the results of crossfired RX 480s I wish I had an atx board now.


Well I've been going crazy with GPUs this time. I went 1080 SLI way sooner than I intended, and now I've got a new little surprise coming this morning...so needless to say, I'm doing it because I love how my GFs build turned out, and two, so I don't go dual GPU to where it means I spend $2400...


----------



## dlewbell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chiobe*
> 
> You could have gone with a smaller case, as that looks almost empty.


Looks fine to me. I've got a narrow ATX board with a single fan open exhaust GPU in a Luxe. That's an empty looking case.


----------



## austinmrs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MountainDewMadOScar*
> 
> SO GOOD


I like it. But like that, you are having negative pressure.. Isnt that bad?

I was thinking about getting a Define S, because i want to mount my 240mm radiator on top, and i would still fit 3 x 140mm on the front to have positve pressure..

On the enthoo pro m if i mont my 240 radiator on top i will most likely have negative pressure.. Unless i mount a rear fan as intake, but they dont have dust filter on the rear..

Dont know what to do or what to buy


----------



## Chiobe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dlewbell*
> 
> Looks fine to me. I've got a narrow ATX board with a single fan open exhaust GPU in a Luxe. That's an empty looking case.


Guess I'm just used to fill the case with what it can handle.


----------



## pez

Is it bad that's part of the reason I went SLI sooner with my 1080s?


----------



## dlewbell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chiobe*
> 
> Guess I'm just used to fill the case with what it can handle.


I fill mine with dreams of future builds...
In all seriousness though, I chose my case because it was the best looking one I found that still supported 5 1/4" bays, it had room for me to expand with future builds, & it sounded like it was well made. All that extra room makes it almost as easy to work in as a test bench, & leaves me with lots of options. If I pick up a second card for cheap, SLI will work. If I can afford a nicer card, I won't have to worry about length. If I decide to build a custom loop one day, I have a place to mount everything. Realistically, I know I will likely only end up upgrading the video card, but it's nice to know I have the options.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chiobe*
> 
> You could have gone with a smaller case, as that looks almost empty.


Eh, the combo of big open area with a res mount, CLC and Corsair fans is what does it. Very rich looking case designed for liquid cooling is really juxtaposed by the cheap looking Corsair stuff. The Corsair fans look at home in the plasticy Corsair cases, but they look terrible to me when you put them in a quality case. I guess it doesn't help that I know that the fans that came with the case are far better quality.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dlewbell*
> 
> Looks fine to me. I've got a narrow ATX board with a single fan open exhaust GPU in a Luxe. That's an empty looking case.


Nah, that setup looks clean. An empty looking case is a Primo with a CLC. That looks ridiculous.


----------



## doyll

It's a very nicely done build. @MountainDewMadOScar did a very good job.








Case is not too big, just big enough to be able to have a little growing room if needed.

Like ciarlatano says, Primo is too big, most others are not.








And I do agree, I would not have used CLC or red ring fans. I would have stayed air or gone Swiftech. But that's personal taste.


----------



## Kyouki

Just stumped across this thread, I recently picked up a Phanteks enthoo evolv atx tempered glass galaxy silver. I though Id share my current build log here -> http://www.overclock.net/t/1607002/, it is not finished but I really love this case and am enjoying the challenge of a clean water cooling build in it.


----------



## austinmrs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kyouki*
> 
> Just stumped across this thread, I recently picked up a Phanteks enthoo evolv atx tempered glass galaxy silver. I though Id share my current build log here -> http://www.overclock.net/t/1607002/, it is not finished but I really love this case and am enjoying the challenge of a clean water cooling build in it.


Can i ask what led strips are those?

Also, are those fans good to pun in the front of a enthoo pro m? better than venturi hf 14 in terms of performance and noise?


----------



## Kyouki

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *austinmrs*
> 
> Can i ask what led strips are those?
> 
> Also, are those fans good to pun in the front of a enthoo pro m? better than venturi hf 14 in terms of performance and noise?


The LED are "Phanteks Multi-Color LED Strips 2 Meter " picked them up on Amazon for like $25. I really like them they use magnets to attach but also come with optional 3M adhesive.

To be honest I am not a guru on fans I chose these fans to match my build, while the specs look good as well they run quite and push good air based on the specs but I have not ran them yet still finishing the build.


----------



## austinmrs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kyouki*
> 
> The LED are "Phanteks Multi-Color LED Strips 2 Meter " picked them up on Amazon for like $25. I really like them they use magnets to attach but also come with optional 3M adhesive.
> 
> To be honest I am not a guru on fans I chose these fans to match my build, while the specs look good as well they run quite and push good air based on the specs but I have not ran them yet still finishing the build.


Meh, those leds only work on Evolv Tempered Glass... Dontr work on Enthoo Pro M because it have no LED controller... And my Asus VIII Hero dont have connector for LEDs...


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *austinmrs*
> 
> Can i ask what led strips are those?
> 
> Also, are those fans good to pun in the front of a enthoo pro m? better than venturi hf 14 in terms of performance and noise?


The Bitfenix and Venturi HF14 are both pretty average in terms of performance. Not stellar, but solid enough. However, I should point out that the F140SP included with the case is a bit better than either in terms of noise/airflow.


----------



## Kyouki

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *austinmrs*
> 
> Meh, those leds only work on Evolv Tempered Glass... Dontr work on Enthoo Pro M because it have no LED controller... And my Asus VIII Hero dont have connector for LEDs...


I am hooking them directly to the Asus RGB pins on the motherboard to use it as my controller. The pin out is just like any other 5050 LED RGB style so you should be able to use it with any controller or power options.


----------



## rx7racer

Some very nice builds going on in here for last couple pages, always a pleasure to peruse on a slow day.









On a plus note I finished reworking my loop and here is the result visually.



Yeah looks like crap and cheap crap at that but hopefully the airflow will be better and I can at least feel like I can put the case back together without cooking my hardware.

My color scheme backfired on me haha


----------



## pez

That tubing is so thick lol. I'm curious to see what (hopeful) improvements you'll see.

So i found a Z97 mITX board and picked it up. Now, I'm just waiting for the Evolv ITX to come back in-stock stateside







.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *austinmrs*
> 
> Can i ask what led strips are those?
> 
> Also, are those fans good to pun in the front of a enthoo pro m? better than venturi hf 14 in terms of performance and noise?


What ciarlatano said. The stock fans are quite good. I play with a lot of different fans, from old Thermalright TY-140 & TY-143 (new square versions are out now) to PH-F140MP, GTs, FHP141, etc. I've setup a couple of my cases with new TY-147A Sq and while I like the sound profile a little better than the stock PH-F140SP, the difference in cooling is marginal . Even the sound difference is minimal .. definitely not worth the money it costs to replace the stock fans.


----------



## Kyouki

Yea Ill be using the stock ones in the front since you wont se them but using the others everywhere else.


----------



## Exilon

I've gotten tired of the restrictive top on the Evolv ATX and took it off to see what I could do without taking a dremel to it. Turns out the mesh covering the vents on the top side are incredibly restrictive. They'red glued on but easy to peel off, so I pulled them off and stuck them to the side in case they're needed in the future. Exhaust air flow is significantly better compared to stock. My desk is very breezy now.









I also took off the IO cover on the front panel, but with the vents cleared not much air comes out of there unless the fans are really cranking.


----------



## MountainDewMadOScar

Does anyone know the Ram Clearance when you have a rad installed in the top of the Enthoo pro M?

one of my Vengeance sticks died and I'm looking to pick up someone of the LED ones.


----------



## Exilon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MountainDewMadOScar*
> 
> Does anyone know the Ram Clearance when you have a rad installed in the top of the Enthoo pro M?
> 
> one of my Vengeance sticks died and I'm looking to pick up someone of the LED ones.


Memory Clearance (motherboard - fan)

120 mm form factor: 68 mm (2.68 in)
140 mm form factor: 48 mm (1.89 in)


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Exilon*
> 
> I've gotten tired of the restrictive top on the Evolv ATX and took it off to see what I could do without taking a dremel to it. Turns out the mesh covering the vents on the top side are incredibly restrictive. They'red glued on but easy to peel off, so I pulled them off and stuck them to the side in case they're needed in the future. Exhaust air flow is significantly better compared to stock. My desk is very breezy now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also took off the IO cover on the front panel, but with the vents cleared not much air comes out of there unless the fans are really cranking.


Have you blocked the holes in top radiator bracket so top fan airflow is not circling back down into case?
http://www.overclock.net/t/1418637/official-case-phanteks-case-club-for-lovers-owners/13700_20#post_25268315

Also, try just setting the top on it's clips instead of pushing it down. This triples the top vernt area.









I spaced my front cover out 15mm. This improved front airflow area. I found electrical socket / switch mounting screws are same thread and were about right length. I filed a little off of them so they didn't bottom out, but not much.


----------



## TeslaHUN

I join the club with a Primo


----------



## doyll

@TeslaHUN
Very nicely done!








White really is nice.


----------



## Chiobe

This took way longer then expected, but the current version is finally ready for liquid. Still more to be done, once there is spare money.


----------



## Exilon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Have you blocked the holes in top radiator bracket so top fan airflow is not circling back down into case?
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1418637/official-case-phanteks-case-club-for-lovers-owners/13700_20#post_25268315
> 
> Also, try just setting the top on it's clips instead of pushing it down. This triples the top vernt area.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I spaced my front cover out 15mm. This improved front airflow area. I found electrical socket / switch mounting screws are same thread and were about right length. I filed a little off of them so they didn't bottom out, but not much.


Removing the vent filters and the IO flip cover really opened the top up. At 100% fan, my desk gets too breezy now. There's not much more gain to removing the top over altogether and I don't want to meddle with the aesthetics too much. But I do have 2000 RPM Vardar fans in push-pull and they have no trouble pumping air through 30 FPI radiators so results may vary.

I also have my 280mm rad pushed all the way to the front with a 140mm rad on the back. The 140mm rad on the back pumps out any hot air leaking in from the top. Last time I taped up the radiator bracket, I got worse results, probably due to higher pressure in the top chamber reducing airflow through the 280mm radiator itself. I may try it again with the top opened up.


----------



## davidcapi

I was thinking about buying the Evolv ATX. I did this mod to two Evolv ITX cases, it worked out really well. Ambient air comes in through the front and goes up to the radiator and out the PC but I'm not sure about the ATX case, is the top panel too thick? The ITX case just had a somewhat flimsy top cover very easy to dremmel.


----------



## LinusBE

Evolv ATX TG should arrive tomorrow







Also ordered sleeved cables and an RGB LED strip from Cablemod as the ones from Phanteks are out of stock everywhere here.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *davidcapi*
> 
> 
> 
> I was thinking about buying the Evolv ATX. I did this mod to two Evolv ITX cases, it worked out really well. Ambient air comes in through the front and goes up to the radiator and out the PC but I'm not sure about the ATX case, is the top panel too thick? The ITX case just had a somewhat flimsy top cover very easy to dremmel.


No way you are getting a clean cut with a dremel on the ATX, aluminum is way too thick.


----------



## Duality92

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> No way you are getting a clean cut with a dremel on the ATX, aluminum is way too thick.


I've done it with case labs motherboard trays?


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Duality92*
> 
> I've done it with case labs motherboard trays?


Not sure how it compares. My memory of Caselabs is vague. I have dremeled a lot of things, couldn't imagine doing the Evolv ATX top. It's actually the thickest panel on the case.


----------



## Caos

Hello, I'm deciding between MasterCase cooler master or Enthoo Pro M Acrylic. in Enthoo fits either a h220x2 swiftech? good management cable? Thank you


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Caos*
> 
> Hello, I'm deciding between MasterCase cooler master or Enthoo Pro M Acrylic. in Enthoo fits either a h220x2 swiftech? good management cable? Thank you


The Phanteks will do both, excellent cable management and up to a 360mm radiator in the top. It also has a slide out radiator bracket that is offset from the motherboard for good clearance. Plus a better price that the CoolerMaster.


----------



## Caos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rfarmer*
> 
> The Phanteks will do both, excellent cable management and up to a 360mm radiator in the top. It also has a slide out radiator bracket that is offset from the motherboard for good clearance. Plus a better price that the CoolerMaster.


thanks for the reply. if it is very cute, the air flow is also good?

It would be nice change from 780t corsair?


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Duality92*
> 
> I've done it with case labs motherboard trays?


The Evolv case aluminum is about 3.2mm thick. I think Case Labs motherboard trays are maybe half as thick, possibly less.


----------



## pez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Caos*
> 
> thanks for the reply. if it is very cute, the air flow is also good?
> 
> It would be nice change from 780t corsair?


The benefit to the Pro M is that you get the internal layout of the Evolv ATX case with a bit more airflow. As on the Pro M, you're just overcoming mesh/filters instead of semi-solid panels. Very happy with the performance of my Pro M. Plus I think it looks stunning







.

P.S. I might be biased







.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pez*
> 
> The benefit to the Pro M is that you get the internal layout of the Evolv ATX case with a bit more airflow. As on the Pro M, you're just overcoming mesh/filters instead of semi-solid panels. Very happy with the performance of my Pro M. Plus I think it looks stunning
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> P.S. I might be biased


I like the Pro better than Pro M because Pro has 2x bottom vents, and it's easy to attach the PSU filter to front filter so both slide out the front .. no more moving case to clean PSU filter.









The added front vent area is nice for radiators, but for air cooling not so much so. But being able to remove all intake filters (bottom and front) wihtout moving case is a real plus in my book. I still don't understand why Phanteks didn't make it all one filter, but at least the engineers







'screwed up' and made it so we can turn it into one big filter.


----------



## pez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> I like the Pro better than Pro M because Pro has 2x bottom vents, and it's easy to attach the PSU filter to front filter so both slide out the front .. no more moving case to clean PSU filter.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The added front vent area is nice for radiators, but for air cooling not so much so. But being able to remove all intake filters (bottom and front) wihtout moving case is a real plus in my book. I still don't understand why Phanteks didn't make it all one filter, but at least the engineers
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 'screwed up' and made it so we can turn it into one big filter.


The Enthoo Pro is also a much bigger case







. And nearly nothing alike the Evolv ATX or Pro M







.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pez*
> 
> The Enthoo Pro is also a much bigger case
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . And nearly nothing alike the Evolv ATX or Pro M
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


Well, it is a little bigger
Enthoo Pro is 235x535x550mm (WxHxD
Enthoo Pro M 235x480x500mm
That is a whole 0 x 55 x 50mm difference.









For comparison, the Enthoo Primo is 250x650x600mm .. that is 15 x 80 x 100mm bigger .. now that's 'bigger'.


----------



## pez

Well I like the size of the Pro M the way it is







. Even though I'm possibly going ITX very soon....


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Well, it is a little bigger
> Enthoo Pro is 235x535x550mm (WxHxD
> Enthoo Pro M 235x480x500mm
> That is a whole 0 x 55 x 50mm difference.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For comparison, the Enthoo Primo is 250x650x600mm .. that is 15 x 80 x 100mm bigger .. now that's 'bigger'.


the primo feels a lot bigger than its dimensions show...when i got it to replace the pro i was like holy crap this is going to be great....then i upsized all the rads and it looks comparable to the pro in space left i only wish it had removable drive bays and such with screws as the pro has


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> the primo feels a lot bigger than its dimensions show...when i got it to replace the pro i was like holy crap this is going to be great....then i upsized all the rads and it looks comparable to the pro in space left i only wish it had removable drive bays and such with screws as the pro has


ROFL








It really does, doesn't it.









When it arrived I was amazed at how big the box was and how heavy .. but the real freak-out was when I got it out of the box! 50-100mm is way more than 50mm is quite a bit bigger .. 80-100mm more makes it huge !!









I used mine for about a year, then moved to Enthoo Luxe, and then added Enthoo Evolv ATX. Now I'm working on Enthoo Mini XL DS. Can't decide if I really want to go duel system or mod it into an ATX .


----------



## Chiobe

I'm done for now. It turned out a bit more cramped then I thought, but guess thats just me making use of the space.




There is still a lot to do:
Replacing bottom radiator (so I can mount it with screws instead of zip ties)
Get new cables (long extensions + long cables = too much cables in the back).
Get LEDs, so I can see it in the dark. Might be because the stupid LED that comes in the case, came with female molex (same as PSU).
Fix the drive bays. Since I'm going with 2-3 smaller rads, so do I probably cut the panel below the drive bays.
And last, maybe replace side panel.


----------



## Caos

I'm in love with this case, but I worry that moving from 780t corsair to Enthoo Pro M Acrylic Window , lose much airflow


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Caos*
> 
> I'm in love with this case, but I worry that moving from 780t corsair to Enthoo Pro M Acrylic Window , lose much airflow


You won't. Properly set up the Pro M had excellent flow.


----------



## OneFunGenesis

Hello all -

Finally finished my build in the Enthoo Pro M and let me tell you...for being a roomy case, it is pretty cramped in there. Specs are as follows:

Core i7 6700K
MSI GTX 1080 Seahawk EK
Gigabyte z170x Designaire
Corsair Vengence LPX 16gb @ 2400
Samsung 850 EVO 250GB SSD
EVGA G2 750w PSU
Magicool 240mm and 120mm rad
Magicool CPU block and pump
Alphacool Res
Barrow compression fittings






Let me know what you all think!


----------



## smithydan

Nice, which Magicool pump?


----------



## LinusBE

Looks good







Only thing I don't like is the fluid color and the colored cable that is visible by the SSD. Other than that it's very nice. I'm starting my build in the Evolv ATX TG tomorrow.


----------



## OneFunGenesis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LinusBE*
> 
> Looks good
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Only thing I don't like is the fluid color and the colored cable that is visible by the SSD. Other than that it's very nice. I'm starting my build in the Evolv ATX TG tomorrow.


Thanks! It's a deeper blue than the pictures let on. It's a black and blue build.

The rainbow cords by the ssd are a RGB led strip. I might wrap them with electrical tape or something. Idk yet

I am also making a GPU brace right now. That EK block is heavy.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smithydan*
> 
> Nice, which Magicool pump?


It's the magicool MC-DCP450. Very quiet and powerful enough for what I have.


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneFunGenesis*
> 
> Thanks! It's a deeper blue than the pictures let on. It's a black and blue build.
> 
> The rainbow cords by the ssd are a RGB led strip. I might wrap them with electrical tape or something. Idk yet
> 
> I am also making a GPU brace right now. That EK block is heavy.
> It's the magicool MC-DCP450. Very quiet and powerful enough for what I have.


You could always use something like this to support your video card. https://www.amazon.com/Emperors-Magic-Universal-Graphics-GTXwudeng/dp/B01F1RUZWE/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1470699656&sr=8-2&keywords=video+card+bracket


----------



## doyll

MSPCtech has a really nice aluminum GPU support.

But this is my favorite


----------



## pez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> MSPCtech has a really nice aluminum GPU support.
> 
> But this is my favorite


I'm a huge Lego fan, so I've considering doing something like this for a while. The Titan X actually seems to be holding its' weight much better than the G1s were.


----------



## LinusBE

My Evolv ATX TG in gunmetal has arrived. My god that's a pretty case. My sleeved cables and RGB LED's aren't here yet but at least I can start with the transfer of my watercooling loop


----------



## Icewaterloop

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *godboy*
> 
> Guys! I have an emergency question!
> 
> I have already ordered my new build, and I am worried about the compatibility.
> 
> Phanteks Evolv ATX with the X99 MSI Godlike Gaming MOBO
> 
> PC Part picker says no compatibility issues, and E-ATX is on the supported mobos, but I checked the dimensions and it looks like the mobo is 6mm too wide. Will it still work?
> 
> From MSI Site - http://us.msi.com/product/motherboard/X99A-GODLIKE-GAMING.html#hero-specification
> 
> MOBO - Dimension
> 
> • 12 in. x 10.7 in. (30.5 cm x 27.2 cm)
> • E-ATX Form Factor
> 
> From Phanteks Site - http://www.phanteks.com/assets/manuals/Enthoo%20Evolv%20ATX%20Manual%20Western.pdf
> 
> E-ATX *(up to 264mm wide)
> 
> Has anyone tested this specific mobo in this case or anything of the same width? I would greatly appreciate the help.
> 
> If the folks here don't think it should work, what case should I go with?
> 
> I was planning a caselabs but didn't want to wait for it to be made, and I really dislike all other case makers besides Phanteks / Fractal. How about the Enthoo Pro / Luxe?


Did you ever get the phanteks evolv case with the msi x99 godlike? Did it fit? I'm planning the same build with the temp glass version and godlike carbon and I see that same size conflict. If not, you think I can dremel the case to make it fit?


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pez*
> 
> I'm a huge Lego fan, so I've considering doing something like this for a while. The Titan X actually seems to be holding its' weight much better than the G1s were.


I have no Legos.







Gave mine to my kids, and they gave them to their kids.


----------



## NiKiZ

My Enthoo Pro M hopefully arrives tomorrow. Can't wait! One of the PH-140SP fans arrived. I tried it on my computer and I wasn't impressed when I first heard it. Then I realized that the fan was running at full speed, as it was set to PWM.







Pretty damn quiet even at full speed.


----------



## OneFunGenesis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rfarmer*
> 
> You could always use something like this to support your video card. https://www.amazon.com/Emperors-Magic-Universal-Graphics-GTXwudeng/dp/B01F1RUZWE/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1470699656&sr=8-2&keywords=video+card+bracket


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> MSPCtech has a really nice aluminum GPU support.
> 
> But this is my favorite


Thanks all. I have spare 1/2in PVC lying around. So I cut a length of that and painted it black. It will be hiding behind my 6 and 8 pin VGA cables so it will be out of the way.

I also could just 3D print a nicer one if need be. I have multiple 3D printed parts in my setup


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneFunGenesis*
> 
> Thanks all. I have spare 1/2in PVC lying around. So I cut a length of that and painted it black. It will be hiding behind my 6 and 8 pin VGA cables so it will be out of the way.
> 
> I also could just 3D print a nicer one if need be. I have multiple 3D printed parts in my setup


Nice, although I have to admit the Lego man might be the way to go.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneFunGenesis*
> 
> Thanks all. I have spare 1/2in PVC lying around. So I cut a length of that and painted it black. It will be hiding behind my 6 and 8 pin VGA cables so it will be out of the way.
> 
> I also could just 3D print a nicer one if need be. I have multiple 3D printed parts in my setup


I wish I could afford a 3D printer. Life would be so sweet! .. That is assuming they work like they should and are not full of nasty little printer gremlins.


----------



## OneFunGenesis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rfarmer*
> 
> Nice, although I have to admit the Lego man might be the way to go.


That thing is awesome. The cool part about 3D printing is that I can make a lego brick as tall as I want. So I could totally do the lego man! haha
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> I wish I could afford a 3D printer. Life would be so sweet! .. That is assuming they work like they should and are not full of nasty little printer gremlins.


Printer gremlins they sometimes have. Although (unlike traditional printers) when the gremlins pop up, they ruin hours of print and can put a task behind schedule.

My 3D printing advice is to save up and get a decent printer (north of $900 or so). A cheap printer doesn't stay calibrated, wastes PLA or ABS or whatever you're printing and doesn't have the features of a full fledged printer. My wife has something like 20 of them







.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneFunGenesis*
> 
> That thing is awesome. The cool part about 3D printing is that I can make a lego brick as tall as I want. So I could totally do the lego man! haha
> Printer gremlins they sometimes have. Although (unlike traditional printers) when the gremlins pop up, they ruin hours of print and can put a task behind schedule.
> 
> My 3D printing advice is to save up and get a decent printer (north of $900 or so). A cheap printer doesn't stay calibrated, wastes PLA or ABS or whatever you're printing and doesn't have the features of a full fledged printer. My wife has something like 20 of them
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


Not to sidetrack case forum, could you please PM me some info about what to look for and what are good 3D printers? And any info you might have about making the print programs. Can't do much with printer if I can't make design the print.


----------



## OneFunGenesis

PM sent. It's a long one


----------



## madmeatballs

Anyone know if an H240-x would fit on top of the Enthoo Pro M? Also plan to put a 140mm kraken x41 rear side, I know its fits but would it if both are installed? Thanks!


----------



## OneFunGenesis

I have a 240mm top and 120mm rear and it fits. you will just have to shove the 240 towards the front a bit. The rails make it really easy to do so.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *madmeatballs*
> 
> Anyone know if an H240-x would fit on top of the Enthoo Pro M? Also plan to put a 140mm kraken x41 rear side, I know its fits but would it if both are installed? Thanks!


That setup will fit without issue. However, you might want to consider the Kraken up front to alleviate the bunch of tubing in one spot, it will look a lot cleaner. Then again.....getting a GPU block and eliminating the Kraken altogether would look far better and offer less system noise.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneFunGenesis*
> 
> I have a 240mm top and 120mm rear and it fits. you will just have to shove the 240 towards the front a bit. The rails make it really easy to do so.


The H240-X is a 280mm, not a 240mm, but the same applies.


----------



## madmeatballs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> That setup will fit without issue. However, you might want to consider the Kraken up front to alleviate the bunch of tubing in one spot, it will look a lot cleaner. Then again.....getting a GPU block and eliminating the Kraken altogether would look far better and offer less system noise.
> The H240-X is a 280mm, not a 240mm, but the same applies.


Hmmm, good idea! It looked impossible to fit the h240-x on top with a rear x41 on push-pull anyway lol.


----------



## pez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> I have no Legos.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Gave mine to my kids, and they gave them to their kids.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rfarmer*
> 
> Nice, although I have to admit the Lego man might be the way to go.


The Lego minifigures are actually pretty inexpensive







. You can go to any toy store/shop and probably find the current series. A toy shop owner might even help you find the right bag with the right figure (they're kinda mystery bags). They're around 3 USD a pop here. Or walk into a Lego store like a confident adult and build your own







.


----------



## Asyde

Hey guys! First time posting on these forums. Just finished my new build in the Evolv ATX case and thought i'd share! Here she is!

Specs:
Phanteks Evolve ATX
Asus X99Deluxe II
Intel i7-5930K @ 3.5ghz (not overclocked yet)
Gigabyte G1 GTX1070
32GB GSKILL 3200 RAM (painted teal)
2x 500GB Samsung 850 SSD in Raid 0
SeaSonic 1000W Platinum PSU
Ensourced Teal Cable Extensions
Corsair AF & SP Series Fans (painted teal)

Cooling:
EK 360 (top) & EK 280 radiator (front)
EK PWM Pump
Primochill CTR Reservoir & Coolant (with distilled water)
Primochill clear tubing (hidden underneath)
Custom Polished/Clear Coated Copper tubing
Bitspower Fittings


----------



## pez

LOVE that color scheme. However, peel that plastic off the Phanteks logo







.


----------



## Asyde

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pez*
> 
> LOVE that color scheme. However, peel that plastic off the Phanteks logo
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


I removed it instantly after I took these photos haha. Didn't realize it was still on.


----------



## Kyouki

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Asyde*
> 
> Hey guys! First time posting on these forums. Just finished my new build in the Evolv ATX case and thought i'd share! Here she is!
> 
> Specs:
> Phanteks Evolve ATX
> Asus X99Deluxe II
> Intel i7-5930K @ 3.5ghz (not overclocked yet)
> Gigabyte G1 GTX1070
> 32GB GSKILL 3200 RAM (painted teal)
> 2x 500GB Samsung 850 SSD in Raid 0
> SeaSonic 1000W Platinum PSU
> Ensourced Teal Cable Extensions
> Corsair AF & SP Series Fans (painted teal)
> 
> Cooling:
> EK 360 (top) & EK 280 radiator (front)
> EK PWM Pump
> Primochill CTR Reservoir & Coolant (with distilled water)
> Primochill clear tubing (hidden underneath)
> Custom Polished/Clear Coated Copper tubing
> Bitspower Fittings


I really like the loop you have designed, good routs may of gave me a few ideas. I am currently building a loop in the same case and I was really thinking about putting the pump in the bottom like you but as of right now I have it planned in the top with res.


----------



## LinusBE

Hi everyone, I started my build in the Evolv ATX TG today, but I cannot figure out how to run my loop. I have 2 rads, 1 x 280 mm in the top (won't fit in the front because it's too wide) and 1 x 240 mm in the front. I'm having trouble making the final run from the front radiator to the inlet of the reservoir (at the left side, the outlet is next to it closer to the case). The front radiator does not have to be at the height it is in the picture. Any help figuring out a run that doesn't look bad is greatly appreciated!


----------



## OneFunGenesis

Is the CPU the only thing you are watercooling? I ask this because you might be able to change your loop order to help you out. What is your current loop order?

Why can't you just make a loop into the inlet?


----------



## LinusBE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneFunGenesis*
> 
> Is the CPU the only thing you are watercooling? I ask this because you might be able to change your loop order to help you out. What is your current loop order?
> 
> Why can't you just make a loop into the inlet?


Yes CPU only. Current order is res out -> cpu -> 280 -> 240 -> res in. I can make a loop but then the tube would cross the reservoir and I don't find that very pretty.


----------



## OneFunGenesis

Okay, consider this (it will be harder to bleed the air but will help your loop). Flip the front rad round. Go front rad out >CPU>Top rad>Top inlet of res.

This just occured to me that you might have to use a different res to come in the top (that's what she said) or you can come from the top rad into the side with a small loop. Or move the top rad around to come into the side inlet at less of an angle.

Hopefully this helps/makes sense.


----------



## OneFunGenesis

as another side note...how do you plan to drain that loop?


----------



## LinusBE

I usually just undo a fitting. Did that 3 times already and it works fine. I don't have another reservoir with multiple top inlets unfortunately. I do have a bitspower reservoir and a D5 X-TOP for my pump but there isn't enough room to make a good looking loop using these components.


----------



## OneFunGenesis

Yea, I thought i was mistaken about the res. I would consider my order and shove the top rad closer to the back. Come out of the top rad an into the inlet of the res. Does that make sense/work?


----------



## LinusBE

Yes that makes sense thank you. I am now mounting everthing into position and I will see if it works. Thank you four your help!


----------



## OneFunGenesis

Very welcome! Let us know how it turns out.

I just finished my loop on friday. After my initial plan failed it took 2 days to think out my new plan so I know your pain lol


----------



## LinusBE

Just test fitted my GPU and now there is no more room for the outlet. FFS


----------



## OneFunGenesis

Raise the res higher. You should be able ot raise it straight up and have all the fittings clear the GPU?


----------



## LinusBE

That way the top won't be available for filling but I just turned the whole res 90 degrees so both ports point outwards. That way it works. I now have a plan in my head that will work according to me and I am building it now, but the tubing will have to wait until tomorrow . Again thank you for your help. I will post pictures when it is done. Cablemod still hasnt shipped my sleeved cables and LED's so I don't know when that will be


----------



## Sazexa

So, today I got the Phanteks RGB LED "starter-kit" in. When I hooked it up, I originally hooked it up like this:

ASUS AURA header -> Evolv ATX case LED's -> two LED strips

But, I was only getting blue, or white, no other LED colors. I disconnected the strips and tried just the case LED's, and was only getting blue or white again. When I disconnected the case LED's, and connected only the strips, the strips worked fine. I was NOT using the 12V adapter for the case LED's, also.

So, next, I tried just the 12V power connector for the case LED's, without using the AURA header. And, the LED's worked fine with the case's control.

Basically, the LED strips work fine, either controller from the case or from AURA, but the case-LED's ONLY work right when used with the case's 12V power. Any ideas as to what's wrong?


----------



## Asyde

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sazexa*
> 
> So, today I got the Phanteks RGB LED "starter-kit" in. When I hooked it up, I originally hooked it up like this:
> 
> ASUS AURA header -> Evolv ATX case LED's -> two LED strips
> 
> But, I was only getting blue, or white, no other LED colors. I disconnected the strips and tried just the case LED's, and was only getting blue or white again. When I disconnected the case LED's, and connected only the strips, the strips worked fine. I was NOT using the 12V adapter for the case LED's, also.
> 
> So, next, I tried just the 12V power connector for the case LED's, without using the AURA header. And, the LED's worked fine with the case's control.
> 
> Basically, the LED strips work fine, either controller from the case or from AURA, but the case-LED's ONLY work right when used with the case's 12V power. Any ideas as to what's wrong?


I'm no electrician, but my guess is the case LEDs require additional grounds/power for colors other than blue/white. As if they run on different channels with their own power. Since you have the case LEDs connected prior to the other two LED strips, the signal never reaches the additional strips, or rather the only signal that reaches them are the blue/white.

Another possibility is that case LEDs use the RGB header mostly for signal, and the 12v connection for power. Since you didn't connect the 12v connection, the only colors they were able to produce from the mobo power was blue/white.


----------



## Sazexa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Asyde*
> 
> I'm no electrician, but my guess is the case LEDs require additional grounds/power for colors other than blue/white. As if they run on different channels with their own power. Since you have the case LEDs connected prior to the other two LED strips, the signal never reaches the additional strips, or rather the only signal that reaches them are the blue/white.
> 
> Another possibility is that case LEDs use the RGB header mostly for signal, and the 12v connection for power. Since you didn't connect the 12v connection, the only colors they were able to produce from the mobo power was blue/white.


The case LED's are meant to work with the LED strips, they use the same connector designed by Phanteks.


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Asyde*
> 
> Hey guys! First time posting on these forums. Just finished my new build in the Evolv ATX case and thought i'd share! Here she is!
> 
> Specs:
> Phanteks Evolve ATX
> Asus X99Deluxe II
> Intel i7-5930K @ 3.5ghz (not overclocked yet)
> Gigabyte G1 GTX1070
> 32GB GSKILL 3200 RAM (painted teal)
> 2x 500GB Samsung 850 SSD in Raid 0
> SeaSonic 1000W Platinum PSU
> Ensourced Teal Cable Extensions
> Corsair AF & SP Series Fans (painted teal)
> 
> Cooling:
> EK 360 (top) & EK 280 radiator (front)
> EK PWM Pump
> Primochill CTR Reservoir & Coolant (with distilled water)
> Primochill clear tubing (hidden underneath)
> Custom Polished/Clear Coated Copper tubing
> Bitspower Fittings


I love the copper tubing, don't see it often but it looks great. Really sweet build.


----------



## Asyde

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sazexa*
> 
> The case LED's are meant to work with the LED strips, they use the same connector designed by Phanteks.


I realize that. But if I understood you right, your saying the case LEDs themselves (not the extensions) don't show any color other than blue or white unless you have the 12V connector plugged in right? So by that logic, you need both the mobo header AND the 12v plugged in to have full RGB color. The extensions output color is dependant on what the case LEDs colors are.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rfarmer*
> 
> I love the copper tubing, don't see it often but it looks great. Really sweet build.


Appreciate it mate! I was going to nickel plate the copper originally but once i saw it up against the teal i fell in love! Polishing them really made the difference.


----------



## Sazexa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Asyde*
> 
> I realize that. But if I understood you right, your saying the case LEDs themselves (not the extensions) don't show any color other than blue or white unless you have the 12V connector plugged in right? So by that logic, you need both the mobo header AND the 12v plugged in to have full RGB color. The extensions output color is dependant on what the case LEDs colors are.


Phanteks says specifically to not use the 12V adapter AND the AURA header together, as color doesn't work properly. And I tried it, it doesn't work.


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Asyde*
> 
> Hey guys! First time posting on these forums. Just finished my new build in the Evolv ATX case and thought i'd share! Here she is!
> 
> Specs:
> Phanteks Evolve ATX
> Asus X99Deluxe II
> Intel i7-5930K @ 3.5ghz (not overclocked yet)
> Gigabyte G1 GTX1070
> 32GB GSKILL 3200 RAM (painted teal)
> 2x 500GB Samsung 850 SSD in Raid 0
> SeaSonic 1000W Platinum PSU
> Ensourced Teal Cable Extensions
> Corsair AF & SP Series Fans (painted teal)
> 
> Cooling:
> EK 360 (top) & EK 280 radiator (front)
> EK PWM Pump
> Primochill CTR Reservoir & Coolant (with distilled water)
> Primochill clear tubing (hidden underneath)
> Custom Polished/Clear Coated Copper tubing
> Bitspower Fittings


How on God's green earth did you get those copper bends so perfect? Stunning build!


----------



## michael-ocn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Asyde*
> 
> Hey guys! First time posting on these forums. Just finished my new build in the Evolv ATX case and thought i'd share! Here she is!
> 
> Specs:
> Phanteks Evolve ATX
> Asus X99Deluxe II
> Intel i7-5930K @ 3.5ghz (not overclocked yet)
> Gigabyte G1 GTX1070
> 32GB GSKILL 3200 RAM (painted teal)
> 2x 500GB Samsung 850 SSD in Raid 0
> SeaSonic 1000W Platinum PSU
> Ensourced Teal Cable Extensions
> Corsair AF & SP Series Fans (painted teal)
> 
> Cooling:
> EK 360 (top) & EK 280 radiator (front)
> EK PWM Pump
> Primochill CTR Reservoir & Coolant (with distilled water)
> Primochill clear tubing (hidden underneath)
> Custom Polished/Clear Coated Copper tubing
> Bitspower Fittings
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


+1 that copper tubing is incredibly cool


----------



## dmfree88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Asyde*
> 
> Hey guys! First time posting on these forums. Just finished my new build in the Evolv ATX case and thought i'd share! Here she is!
> 
> Specs:
> Phanteks Evolve ATX
> Asus X99Deluxe II
> Intel i7-5930K @ 3.5ghz (not overclocked yet)
> Gigabyte G1 GTX1070
> 32GB GSKILL 3200 RAM (painted teal)
> 2x 500GB Samsung 850 SSD in Raid 0
> SeaSonic 1000W Platinum PSU
> Ensourced Teal Cable Extensions
> Corsair AF & SP Series Fans (painted teal)
> 
> Cooling:
> EK 360 (top) & EK 280 radiator (front)
> EK PWM Pump
> Primochill CTR Reservoir & Coolant (with distilled water)
> Primochill clear tubing (hidden underneath)
> Custom Polished/Clear Coated Copper tubing
> Bitspower Fittings
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Wow nice color scheme. Amazed that it came together so well with the different colored lights and everything being a slightly different color. None of it separate would look like it would match really but bringing it all together it really looks nice. Reservoir is a little off color-wise but still very nice (doubt you will ever get a perfect match to copper shine without copper). All around a badass looking build, love the copper tubing.


----------



## Asyde

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> How on God's green earth did you get those copper bends so perfect? Stunning build!


Much appreciated man! For starters I had gone through A LOT of different layout designs in illustrator prior to even buying the equipment

Here ended up being my final design:


My boss let me borrow a pair of Swagelok 1/2" tube benders from work for the project so that made it much easier. The swagelok manual was actually extremely extremely helpful in teaching me how to measure and create accurate bends. But I quickly learned that copper is tough because it work hardens once you bend it. So you get one shot or you **** it up. I messed up so many bends but thankfully i bought a whole coil of the tubing so i was covered.

The most difficult part however was getting accurate measurements from vertex to vertex (bend point to bend point) without anything to really reference off of. So i got the idea to cut some smaller straight lengths of pieces and stick them into the fittings i was trying to measure out. Then with some digital calipers I was able to measure the center-to-center points of each tube and come up with an accurate reading.

Like this:


Before I bent the tubing I literally went to the drawing board and accurately drew out all the plans for each tube on posterboard so once i made the bend I could reference it against my drawing and see if I was off.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *michael-ocn*
> 
> +1 that copper tubing is incredibly cool


Thanks man! The copper tubing was like 90% of my build. lol! ( Measuring, bending, sanding 600-1200-2000, polishing, clear coating, polishing again)

Took so long but the payoff was great!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmfree88*
> 
> Wow nice color scheme. Amazed that it came together so well with the different colored lights and everything being a slightly different color. None of it separate would look like it would match really but bringing it all together it really looks nice. Reservoir is a little off color-wise but still very nice (doubt you will ever get a perfect match to copper shine without copper). All around a badass looking build, love the copper tubing.


Thanks! I haven't been able to find a color on the Asus Aura yet that gets close to my cables and paint, but the good part is the blue lights look much more teal in person. The photo just oversaturated the blue.

I was a little dissapointed in the reservoir color to be honest, Primochills website photo looks significantly more peach colored but the actual product came out more orange than i was expecting. But hey it still looks nice so i'm not complaining!.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sazexa*
> 
> So, today I got the Phanteks RGB LED "starter-kit" in. When I hooked it up, I originally hooked it up like this:
> 
> ASUS AURA header -> Evolv ATX case LED's -> two LED strips
> 
> But, I was only getting blue, or white, no other LED colors. I disconnected the strips and tried just the case LED's, and was only getting blue or white again. When I disconnected the case LED's, and connected only the strips, the strips worked fine. I was NOT using the 12V adapter for the case LED's, also.
> 
> So, next, I tried just the 12V power connector for the case LED's, without using the AURA header. And, the LED's worked fine with the case's control.
> 
> Basically, the LED strips work fine, either controller from the case or from AURA, but the case-LED's ONLY work right when used with the case's 12V power. Any ideas as to what's wrong?


@Asyde
Really like the smooth straight lines with uniform turns in lines and how they create conformity in the looks.








But I'm going to nit-pick .. the line from GPU to top radiator does not match. The bend out of GPU not lining up with bends going to CPU jumps up 'in my face'. I guess all the conduit bending and resulting 'ridicule' received as an apprentice damaged me beyond redemption .. even after all these years.


----------



## Asyde

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> @Asyde
> Really like the smooth straight lines with uniform turns in lines and how they create conformity in the looks.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But I'm going to nit-pick .. the line from GPU to top radiator does not match. The bend out of GPU not lining up with bends going to CPU jumps up 'in my face'. I guess all the conduit bending and resulting 'ridicule' received as an apprentice damaged me beyond redemption .. even after all these years.


Yeah, as you may have seen in my design photo i posted that wasn't my original idea. But when I went to go measure everything out i realized that a simple 45° bend right there was very very close to being perfect. But yes, it's slightly higher than the rest. That was the last bend I did, so I may have settled for slightly off, but still good looking at that point









Allthough the polish does fool with the eyes a little. It's really pretty close. Here is the shot I took right after finishing the bends. Bit easier to see the start/stop of the bend. but it's still slightly higher.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Asyde*
> 
> Yeah, as you may have seen in my design photo i posted that wasn't my original idea. But when I went to go measure everything out i realized that a simple 45° bend right there was very very close to being perfect. But yes, it's slightly higher than the rest. That was the last bend I did, so I may have settled for slightly off, but still good looking at that point
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Allthough the polish does fool with the eyes a little. It's really pretty close. Here is the shot I took right after finishing the bends. Bit easier to see the start/stop of the bend. but it's still slightly higher.


Glad you understand.

Yeah, it could easily be as much optical illusion as misalignment. Same as optical illusion in image you just posted makes the vertical part of radiator to radiator look slightly different angle than radiator to CPU block.

Here's a quick photoshop of it looking aligned illusion and all .










Any way we look at it, there is no doubt about how nice the overall look is.


----------



## LinusBE

Looks very nice indeed! My loop is also done







It was a tight fit from the top to the front radiator but it worked. I had to move the front rad to the front of the radiator mount and the fans on the inside of the case to make it work. Now my sleeving and RGB LED's need to arrive and I can finish it up. Also I have to hide the ugly cables of my Scythe GT fans. Fittings look like they are not tight, but my tubing is smaller than the fittings and I tightened them all with a wrench.


----------



## OneFunGenesis

^ Nice. I am glad to see you got that worked out!


----------



## LinusBE

Thanks man







The 45 degree adapter in the 2nd picture was leaking (at a very slow rate but there were drops) so I replaced that. I bought many fittings second hand so that was a possibility. Right now everything looks good.


----------



## OneFunGenesis

Ah. I had a leak in my CPU block fitting. I ended up doubling up the o-ring and it stopped it right quick


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneFunGenesis*
> 
> Ah. I had a leak in my CPU block fitting. I ended up doubling up the o-ring and it stopped it right quick


i purchased a metric o ring set for replacing o rings and a standard one for if i needed to double as the metric o ring sort of seats in the next size up of standard...but so far i havent needed to replace but a cpu block ring (inside the block)


----------



## Asyde

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Glad you understand.
> 
> Yeah, it could easily be as much optical illusion as misalignment. Same as optical illusion in image you just posted makes the vertical part of radiator to radiator look slightly different angle than radiator to CPU block.
> 
> Here's a quick photoshop of it looking aligned illusion and all .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Any way we look at it, there is no doubt about how nice the overall look is.


nice photoshop! You caught part of the reason i was enticed to use the 45 adapter fitting because otherwise i would have had to use an additional offset soft bend rather than the 45 adapter. I wasn't sure if I had enough room to do an additional bend and still have everything line up the way I wanted. When i was playing around with ideas i saw that the 45 fitting on the radiator put a 45 bend very very close to matching. It was too good of an opportunity to pass up I just opted to do it that way instead. In all honesty I probably should have done it like you suggested because it would be more uniform, both off the GPU and into the radiator.


----------



## LinusBE

I'm having some trouble with the Phanteks PWM hub at the back of my Evolv ATX. It runs the fans way higher than when connecting to a regular motherboard header. I connected it to the CPU header on my motherboard and I control that header using SpeedFan. If I set the speed to 50% the fans are almost running at full speed. Is that because the hub has to convert PWM to DC or is something else wrong?


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Asyde*
> 
> Yeah, as you may have seen in my design photo i posted that wasn't my original idea. But when I went to go measure everything out i realized that a simple 45° bend right there was very very close to being perfect. But yes, it's slightly higher than the rest. That was the last bend I did, so I may have settled for slightly off, but still good looking at that point
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Allthough the polish does fool with the eyes a little. It's really pretty close. Here is the shot I took right after finishing the bends. Bit easier to see the start/stop of the bend. but it's still slightly higher.


I see no issue with the bends. The whole tubing setup flows very nicely. You really did an incredible job, one of the best looking and most unique installs I have seen in a long time.

But, not going to lie, the cheap looking Corsair fans next to the great copper work totally tweaks me when I look at it.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LinusBE*
> 
> I'm having some trouble with the Phanteks PWM hub at the back of my Evolv ATX. It runs the fans way higher than when connecting to a regular motherboard header. I connected it to the CPU header on my motherboard and I control that header using SpeedFan. If I set the speed to 50% the fans are almost running at full speed. Is that because the hub has to convert PWM to DC or is something else wrong?


You have a Sabertooth. Thermal Radar and Q-Fan tuning are your friends.









The hub tends to work off a smaller PWM range. Using Fan Tuning in Thermal Radar allows the entire rpm range to be used more easily. You may also find that Thermal Radar will allow as much or more flexibility more easily than SpeedFan on the Sabertooth.


----------



## LinusBE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> You have a Sabertooth. Thermal Radar and Q-Fan tuning are your friends.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The hub tends to work off a smaller PWM range. Using Fan Tuning in Thermal Radar allows the entire rpm range to be used more easily. You may also find that Thermal Radar will allow as much or more flexibility more easily than SpeedFan on the Sabertooth.


I don't like Thermal Radar very much. I like SpeedFan better so I will just make a custom curve that starts at 5% and rises very slowly to 100%.


----------



## NiKiZ

Yay! My Phanteks Enthoo Pro M Acrylic has finally arrived! I'll pick it up tomorrow. Also the CableMod Black & White cables arrived. But sadly, my PSU was delayed, because I ordered two PH-140MP fans and they only had one of them.







Oh well, they will arrive next week. But I'll still post a picture tomorrow.


----------



## arg0n

my copper card got a nickel friend


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *arg0n*
> 
> my copper card got a nickel friend
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Very nice, I am getting a GTX 1070 on Sat and I got a Aquacomputer kryographics Pascal for GTX 1080 and 1070 black edition, nickel for it. Very sexy blocks they make.


----------



## arg0n

Thanks you









so pascal doesnt have palm symbolls eheh


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *arg0n*
> 
> Thanks you
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> so pascal doesnt have palm symbolls eheh




No


----------



## arg0n

meh .... you already decided on that ? I would look at koolance .

but just wait for evga hydro copper ? so you get high frequency and nice warranty on that.


----------



## NiKiZ

Got the case! Now waiting for the RM750i PSU and replacement fans for the radiator.


EDIT: I am starting to regret buying a full CableMod cable set for the RM750i.. As you can see, there aren't many cables on sight..







I should have got the basic set instead. Oh well..


----------



## OneFunGenesis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NiKiZ*
> 
> Got the case! Now waiting for the RM750i PSU and replacement fans for the radiator.
> 
> 
> EDIT: I am starting to regret buying a full CableMod cable set for the RM750i.. As you can see, there aren't many cables on sight..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I should have got the basic set instead. Oh well..


That is what I did. I built it and then order the three cables that were visible lol
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *arg0n*
> 
> meh .... you already decided on that ? I would look at koolance .
> 
> but just wait for evga hydro copper ? so you get high frequency and nice warranty on that.


I wouldn't hold your breath for the Hydrocopper: http://forums.evga.com/EVGA-Hydro-Copper-GTX-1080-m2477475.aspx I have been a part of this thread for a while and there seems to be no end in sight.


----------



## LinusBE

She's all done! Loving the sleeving and CableMod RGB LED's. They have an rf receiver and not ir so you don't have to have the receiver in line of sight. It looks better in real life than on picture because of my cellphone camera and the glass reflects everything


----------



## OneFunGenesis

Looks good! I'm glad it all worked out. And my side panel reflects light like that as well. It's crazy lol

Side note: Did you know Phanteks makes sleeved cable extensions? Mine will be here tomorrow. Cant wait to check them out!


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneFunGenesis*
> 
> Looks good! I'm glad it all worked out. And my side panel reflects light like that as well. It's crazy lol
> 
> Side note: Did you know Phanteks makes sleeved cable extensions? Mine will be here tomorrow. Cant wait to check them out!


Not only that, in direct summer sunlight the glass allows a lot of heat into the case. I had my PC by the window and was wondering why the fans were spinning up at idle and my hard drives were getting warm... I put my face in front of the sunlight and was like "oh... that will do it".


----------



## NiKiZ

The Enthoo Pro M Acrylic is surprisingly big in person. The width makes it look fat.







But it is really nice. It looks good, it has good cable management and it is easy to work with. The temperatures went down by 10 degrees on both the CPU and GPU compared to old my ghetto-rigged Fujitsu Siemens case.









The dust filters are nice, too. Too bad the front filter requires to remove the whole front panel to clean it.

I am excited to get the new PSU, as it will arrive next week. This PSU doesn't work correctly. The 24-pin has a broken connection and it randomly shuts off. And it is LOUD. It is the only thing I can hear right now. And the 8-pin CPU Power just barely was long enough to connect to the motherboard. I had to unscrew the PSU to attach it and screw it back on. My second SSD hangs in the back by the cables, because it did not have enough/long enough SATA power connections. (2x dual SATA cables for 2 SSD:s and the water pump)


----------



## OneFunGenesis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> Not only that, in direct summer sunlight the glass allows a lot of heat into the case. I had my PC by the window and was wondering why the fans were spinning up at idle and my hard drives were getting warm... I put my face in front of the sunlight and was like "oh... that will do it".


Ah! That might by why sometimes my CPU and fans ramp up...totally did not think of this


----------



## LinusBE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneFunGenesis*
> 
> Looks good! I'm glad it all worked out. And my side panel reflects light like that as well. It's crazy lol
> 
> Side note: Did you know Phanteks makes sleeved cable extensions? Mine will be here tomorrow. Cant wait to check them out!


Yeah I'm glad I could make everything fit including the HDD tray







In my 450D I had to put my HDD in the 5.25 bay with velcro


----------



## OneFunGenesis

I have water cooling tubes running over my HDD in the basement. I should show you all the insides of the back lolol


----------



## HungryPillow

Hey guys,

I just got an Enthoo Evolv Tempered Glass and could really use some help with how to connect all the fans.

Right now I've done the following:

The 2 stock front fans are connected to the PWM hub on the case
The PWM hub on the case is connected to CPU_FAN on the motherboard (Asus Z77 Sabertooth)
I have a H100 radiator on top with 2x Corsair ML120 Pro LED fans. The 2 fans are connected to a Y splitter which is then connected to CPU_OPT on the motherboard
The rear exhaust fan is a Corsair ML140 Pro LED which is connected to CHA_FAN3 on the motherboard

Right now when I turn on the computer I get a CPU FAN error and the two fans connected to the radiator do not work at all. All the other fans seem to be working OK since I can see them spinning.

My main question is what would be the ideal way to connect the fans so that everything works well together?

I've also purchased a RGB lighting kit from Cablemods which I have not tried to setup yet. Does anyone have any experience with this kit and know the best way to set it up in this case? I'm not sure if you can get the kit to sync together with the lighting on the front and power button of the case...

Thanks and sorry for asking so many things at once


----------



## Ubbidude

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HungryPillow*
> 
> Hey guys,
> 
> I just got an Enthoo Evolv Tempered Glass and could really use some help with how to connect all the fans.
> 
> Right now I've done the following:
> 
> The 2 stock front fans are connected to the PWM hub on the case
> The PWM hub on the case is connected to CPU_FAN on the motherboard (Asus Z77 Sabertooth)
> I have a H100 radiator on top with 2x Corsair ML120 Pro LED fans. The 2 fans are connected to a Y splitter which is then connected to CPU_OPT on the motherboard
> The rear exhaust fan is a Corsair ML140 Pro LED which is connected to CHA_FAN3 on the motherboard
> 
> Right now when I turn on the computer I get a CPU FAN error and the two fans connected to the radiator do not work at all. All the other fans seem to be working OK since I can see them spinning.
> 
> My main question is what would be the ideal way to connect the fans so that everything works well together?
> 
> I've also purchased a RGB lighting kit from Cablemods which I have not tried to setup yet. Does anyone have any experience with this kit and know the best way to set it up in this case? I'm not sure if you can get the kit to sync together with the lighting on the front and power button of the case...
> 
> Thanks and sorry for asking so many things at once


'

Switch the pwm hub to the cpu_opt and make shure you dont connect the pwm and the 12v to that hub only on of the two. and put the corsair'cooler on the cpu_fan header


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ubbidude*
> 
> '
> 
> Switch the pwm hub to the cpu_opt and make shure you dont connect the pwm and the 12v to that hub only on of the two. and put the corsair'cooler on the cpu_fan header


Doing this makes the Phanteks PWM 'controlled' hub into nothing but a simple fan splitter. Not what it is designed to be. If you are assuming the CPU_OPT fan header is not PWM, this will likely control the case fans with variable voltage.


----------



## LinusBE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HungryPillow*
> 
> Hey guys,
> 
> I just got an Enthoo Evolv Tempered Glass and could really use some help with how to connect all the fans.
> 
> Right now I've done the following:
> 
> The 2 stock front fans are connected to the PWM hub on the case
> The PWM hub on the case is connected to CPU_FAN on the motherboard (Asus Z77 Sabertooth)
> I have a H100 radiator on top with 2x Corsair ML120 Pro LED fans. The 2 fans are connected to a Y splitter which is then connected to CPU_OPT on the motherboard
> The rear exhaust fan is a Corsair ML140 Pro LED which is connected to CHA_FAN3 on the motherboard
> 
> Right now when I turn on the computer I get a CPU FAN error and the two fans connected to the radiator do not work at all. All the other fans seem to be working OK since I can see them spinning.
> 
> My main question is what would be the ideal way to connect the fans so that everything works well together?
> 
> I've also purchased a RGB lighting kit from Cablemods which I have not tried to setup yet. Does anyone have any experience with this kit and know the best way to set it up in this case? I'm not sure if you can get the kit to sync together with the lighting on the front and power button of the case...
> 
> Thanks and sorry for asking so many things at once


I have recently bought the same case and LED strip. You can see my setup a few posts back. I have the 60 cm magnetic kit with rf remote. I have placed the LED strip from just under the rear fan across the bottom of the case. I placed it as close to the glass as possible so you can't directly see the LED's when sitting a bit in front of the case.


----------



## HungryPillow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ubbidude*
> 
> '
> 
> Switch the pwm hub to the cpu_opt and make shure you dont connect the pwm and the 12v to that hub only on of the two. and put the corsair'cooler on the cpu_fan header


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Doing this makes the Phanteks PWM 'controlled' hub into nothing but a simple fan splitter. Not what it is designed to be. If you are assuming the CPU_OPT fan header is not PWM, this will likely control the case fans with variable voltage.


I plugged everything into the case PWM hub, then the case PWM hub into CHA_FAN3. I plugged the H100 Corsair pump into CPU_FAN with no fans connected. Then I had to disconnect the SATA 12v because it made my fans run at 100% for some reason. This seems to have worked and I can control the fans either through BIOS or Asus Thermal Radar.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LinusBE*
> 
> I have recently bought the same case and LED strip. You can see my setup a few posts back. I have the 60 cm magnetic kit with rf remote. I have placed the LED strip from just under the rear fan across the bottom of the case. I placed it as close to the glass as possible so you can't directly see the LED's when sitting a bit in front of the case.


That looks great. Was there anything in the case to connect the LED strips to or was it only the SATA for power? Was hoping they would sync with the case power lights but if not that's ok


----------



## redshoulder

Strange, with the evolv case there used to be an white atx version, now it seems to be replaced by a silver version also the TG edition is same.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HungryPillow*
> 
> I plugged everything into the case PWM hub, then the case PWM hub into CHA_FAN3. I plugged the H100 Corsair pump into CPU_FAN with no fans connected. Then I had to disconnect the SATA 12v because it made my fans run at 100% for some reason. This seems to have worked and I can control the fans either through BIOS or Asus Thermal Radar.


To answer your questions....the SATA made your fans run at 100% because they were being PWM controlled, and you had no PWM signal (PWM is only present on the Z77 Sabertooth on the two CPU headers). By disconnecting the SATA, you are literally using the hub as nothing more than a Y-connector, with the fans being voltage controlled.

Big question here - did you have a fan on channel 1 of the hub? Without it, the MB will get no feedback on speed or there being a fan connected.

You have a couple of things going wrong here that are easily fixed. First, you are attempting to put your rad and intake fans on the same curve.....but for some reason were using two different headers to do it. Connect the two ML120 to channel 1+2 on the hub, the case fans on 3+4. Connect the hub's PWM to the CPU header, and re-connect the SATA connector. In BIOS, make sure your CPU header is configured for PWM, and set Q-Fan to "Turbo". After booting, run Thermal Tuning in Thermal Radar. This will set the actual lowest and highest points that the hub will run at and not allow it to run with a PWM signal that produces no fan spin. Then simply set up your curve in Thermal Radar to your liking.

You may still encounter an error on boot for the CPU fan even with them working (this is an oddity with ASUS boards and the hub), and you can simply turn off the warning in the boot section of your BIOS.

I have used the hub with Z77, Z87, Z97 and X99 Sabertooths, so I understand what you are going through. It seems odd and frustrating, but letting Thermal Radar do what it is intended to do, and a slightly more aggressive curve setting in the BIOS takes care of it.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *redshoulder*
> 
> Strange, with the evolv case there used to be an white atx version, now it seems to be replaced by a silver version also the TG edition is same.


I don't believe the white was ever actually available for retail sale. It was shown pre-release, then vanished in favor of the silver.


----------



## vaoqeRG

Hi all,

I was thinking of getting the Enthoo Luxe for a build with 4x blower-style gpus. I noticed the Luxe has 8 expansion slots, would it be possible if all gpus are 2 slot?

Also would getting a Primo prove a better decision?

I really love the look of the Enthoo line, would be very nice if it can accommodate 4 gpus in blower style.

Any thoughts on this would be very appreciated!


----------



## NiKiZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vaoqeRG*
> 
> Hi all,
> 
> I was thinking of getting the Enthoo Luxe for a build with 4x blower-style gpus. I noticed the Luxe has 8 expansion slots, would it be possible if all gpus are 2 slot?
> 
> Also would getting a Primo prove a better decision?
> 
> I really love the look of the Enthoo line, would be very nice if it can accommodate 4 gpus in blower style.
> 
> Any thoughts on this would be very appreciated!


You will have heat issues with 4 cards and they will be LOUD, unless you are water cooling. Watch this video:


----------



## LinusBE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HungryPillow*
> 
> That looks great. Was there anything in the case to connect the LED strips to or was it only the SATA for power? Was hoping they would sync with the case power lights but if not that's ok


Only the SATA power. You can't sync them with the case lights I think.


----------



## vaoqeRG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NiKiZ*
> 
> You will have heat issues with 4 cards and they will be LOUD, unless you are water cooling. Watch this video:


Would that be the case even if they were blower style and the case had adequate cooling?


----------



## NiKiZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vaoqeRG*
> 
> Would that be the case even if they were blower style and the case had adequate cooling?


Blower style coolers might help a bit, as they exhaust the hot air out of the case. But I think you would still have some issues.


----------



## HungryPillow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LinusBE*
> 
> Only the SATA power. You can't sync them with the case lights I think.


Ah OK thanks.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vaoqeRG*
> 
> Hi all,
> 
> I was thinking of getting the Enthoo Luxe for a build with 4x blower-style gpus. I noticed the Luxe has 8 expansion slots, would it be possible if all gpus are 2 slot?
> 
> Also would getting a Primo prove a better decision?
> 
> I really love the look of the Enthoo line, would be very nice if it can accommodate 4 gpus in blower style.
> 
> Any thoughts on this would be very appreciated!


Provided your MB supports it....it will physically fit. That doesn't mean it isn't a bad idea on many levels. Heat is going to be horrific on the upper cards, and buying four older cards that will be outperformed by two current gen cards doesn't seem to be a particularly wise move. Current Nvidia cards support two way SLI only. If you are talking about AMD....that is a whole new world of heat, performance and Crossfire issues better left alone.


----------



## HungryPillow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> To answer your questions....the SATA made your fans run at 100% because they were being PWM controlled, and you had no PWM signal (PWM is only present on the Z77 Sabertooth on the two CPU headers). By disconnecting the SATA, you are literally using the hub as nothing more than a Y-connector, with the fans being voltage controlled.
> 
> Big question here - did you have a fan on channel 1 of the hub? Without it, the MB will get no feedback on speed or there being a fan connected.
> 
> You have a couple of things going wrong here that are easily fixed. First, you are attempting to put your rad and intake fans on the same curve.....but for some reason were using two different headers to do it. Connect the two ML120 to channel 1+2 on the hub, the case fans on 3+4. Connect the hub's PWM to the CPU header, and re-connect the SATA connector. In BIOS, make sure your CPU header is configured for PWM, and set Q-Fan to "Turbo". After booting, run Thermal Tuning in Thermal Radar. This will set the actual lowest and highest points that the hub will run at and not allow it to run with a PWM signal that produces no fan spin. Then simply set up your curve in Thermal Radar to your liking.
> 
> You may still encounter an error on boot for the CPU fan even with them working (this is an oddity with ASUS boards and the hub), and you can simply turn off the warning in the boot section of your BIOS.
> 
> I have used the hub with Z77, Z87, Z97 and X99 Sabertooths, so I understand what you are going through. It seems odd and frustrating, but letting Thermal Radar do what it is intended to do, and a slightly more aggressive curve setting in the BIOS takes care of it.


OK, I think I finally got it! Thank you so much for your help









I plugged all case fans and radiator fans into the case PWM hub. I connected the PWM hub to CPU_FAN. I connected the Corsair pump with no fans in it to CPU_OPT. Then I connected the SATA 12v cable.

Everything seems to be working fine now. No errors on boot and fans aren't at full speed and seem to be adjusting based on temperature. Originally planned to finish this in one night ended up taking me two lol... anyway here are some pictures


----------



## vaoqeRG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Provided your MB supports it....it will physically fit. That doesn't mean it isn't a bad idea on many levels. Heat is going to be horrific on the upper cards, and buying four older cards that will be outperformed by two current gen cards doesn't seem to be a particularly wise move. Current Nvidia cards support two way SLI only. If you are talking about AMD....that is a whole new world of heat, performance and Crossfire issues better left alone.


Thanks for your reply.

I wont be using SLI on this build, in fact this is not for gaming. I will be using Octane, a 3D renderer that benefits linearly from extra gpu support, so in this case the more the better, though I have heard SLI does not scale well so I understand your concern.

Would there be any benefit from getting the Primo over Luxe if they will both fit the gpus? I understand the Primo is better suited for water cooling, but is there any other benefit?


----------



## dlewbell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vaoqeRG*
> 
> Thanks for your reply.
> 
> I wont be using SLI on this build, in fact this is not for gaming. I will be using Octane, a 3D renderer that benefits linearly from extra gpu support, so in this case the more the better, though I have heard SLI does not scale well so I understand your concern.
> 
> Would there be any benefit from getting the Primo over Luxe if they will both fit the gpus? I understand the Primo is better suited for water cooling, but is there any other benefit?


With the Luxe, if you use the PSU shroud, your bottom card will be directly over it, & will have limited airflow. With the Primo, the area below your bottom GPU will be open. If you don't want to use the PSU shroud, the difference will be minimal in an air cooled build with blower style GPUs.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

edit: i cant read...


----------



## vaoqeRG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dlewbell*
> 
> With the Luxe, if you use the PSU shroud, your bottom card will be directly over it, & will have limited airflow. With the Primo, the area below your bottom GPU will be open. If you don't want to use the PSU shroud, the difference will be minimal in an air cooled build with blower style GPUs.


Apart from aesthetics would there be any practical reason to use the shroud on the Luxe?

And if the Primo is 'roomier' inside, would not produce better temps vs the Luxe in air cooled conditions?

Many thanks for your reply!


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vaoqeRG*
> 
> Apart from aesthetics would there be any practical reason to use the shroud on the Luxe?
> 
> And if the Primo is 'roomier' inside, would not produce better temps vs the Luxe in air cooled conditions?
> 
> Many thanks for your reply!


No....

and.....

No......if you are talking straight out of the box. But you can add bottom fans to the Primo which could help, then again, you can add a bottom fan to the Luxe if you remove the shroud....but then you shoule probably be looking at a Pro unless you are doing the Luxe for the look (which I see no issue with,the Luxe is great looking).


----------



## AngryGoldfish

Has anyone got any thoughts on the noise levels of the Phanteks Enthoo EVOLV mATX and full ATX cases?

Also, has anyone got any experience comparing adding additional fans versus using the two stock fans only.

I'm trying to find a quiet case that fits what I'm aiming for visually in an all air silent build.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AngryGoldfish*
> 
> Has anyone got any thoughts on the noise levels of the Phanteks Enthoo EVOLV mATX and full ATX cases?
> 
> Also, has anyone got any experience comparing adding additional fans versus using the two stock fans only.
> 
> I'm trying to find a quiet case that fits what I'm aiming for visually in an all air silent build.


Using Evolv ATX with 2x front intake and 1x rear exhaust and it runs cool and quiet. I experimented with spacing front cover out and raising top to improve flow. It did help some, but with only a 980x and GTX 770 I don't have heat issues with it stock.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AngryGoldfish*
> 
> Has anyone got any thoughts on the noise levels of the Phanteks Enthoo EVOLV mATX and full ATX cases?
> 
> Also, has anyone got any experience comparing adding additional fans versus using the two stock fans only.
> 
> I'm trying to find a quiet case that fits what I'm aiming for visually in an all air silent build.


I haven't used the mATX, but have done extensive testing with the ATX. It is a quiet case, no question. I have played around with 3x120mm in the front (Noctua, GTs, F120MP, be quiet SW2) as well as a number of different 140mm (Noctua, Vardar, Thermalright). After all of the playing around, none of the combos were better than the F140SP included, and they are back in the case. One thing that does work very well is raising the two 140 above the midplate and adding an 80mm for the HDD - making a mount for it is a very simple process.


----------



## pshootr

I'm so glad I stuck with all Phanteks fans for my rig. I have to admit, I almost caved in to the fancy looks and marketing of some other brands.


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> ...adding an 80mm for the HDD - making a mount for it is a very simple process.


I just did this in addition to putting some heatsinks on my WD blacks. They were getting up to 50c when they were running while I was gaming. Fan plus heatsink reduced their temps by 5-8c.

I should note that I covered the holes on the PSU shroud so there was almost no place for the heat from the HDDs to escape.

In regards to the included fans, they indeed are good, but I just wish they were PWM (for more granular control).


----------



## AngryGoldfish

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Using Evolv ATX with 2x front intake and 1x rear exhaust and it runs cool and quiet. I experimented with spacing front cover out and raising top to improve flow. It did help some, but with only a 980x and GTX 770 I don't have heat issues with it stock.


You mean moving the front fans up higher so that there is a direct flow of air from front -> tower -> rear exhaust?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> I haven't used the mATX, but have done extensive testing with the ATX. It is a quiet case, no question. I have played around with 3x120mm in the front (Noctua, GTs, F120MP, be quiet SW2) as well as a number of different 140mm (Noctua, Vardar, Thermalright). After all of the playing around, none of the combos were better than the F140SP included, and they are back in the case. One thing that does work very well is raising the two 140 above the midplate and adding an 80mm for the HDD - making a mount for it is a very simple process.


Excellent. When you say 3x120/140mm fans weren't better than the Phanteks fans, do you mean that 3x140mm fans offered no better temperatures than the stock dual F140SP intakes?

Do you know if there is a construction guide posted for that mount somewhere in this thread I can search for?


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AngryGoldfish*
> 
> You mean moving the front fans up higher so that there is a direct flow of air from front -> tower -> rear exhaust?
> Excellent. When you say 3x120/140mm fans weren't better than the Phanteks fans, do you mean that 3x140mm fans offered no better temperatures than the stock dual F140SP intakes?
> 
> Do you know if there is a construction guide posted for that mount somewhere in this thread I can search for?


I mean the front and top covers. I spaced my front out 13mm and top is up about 8mm. Top works very well just by removing the 4x screws (2x front and 2x back) that hold the top on and popping it off. It clips on, but I just let it set on top of the clips. It effectively triples the top vent area.









But I'm running air cooling so top venting is moot. I want front to back flow. So front is spaced out 13mm and PCIe slot covers are removed.


----------



## AngryGoldfish

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> I mean the front and top covers. I spaced my front out 13mm and top is up about 8mm. Top works very well just by removing the 4x screws (2x front and 2x back) that hold the top on and popping it off. It clips on, but I just let it set on top of the clips. It effectively triples the top vent area.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But I'm running air cooling so top venting is moot. I want front to back flow. So front is spaced out 13mm and PCIe slot covers are removed.


I'll be running air cooling as well. Does letting the top/front panels sit on the clips change the way the chassis looks?


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AngryGoldfish*
> 
> You mean moving the front fans up higher so that there is a direct flow of air from front -> tower -> rear exhaust?
> Excellent. When you say 3x120/140mm fans weren't better than the Phanteks fans, do you mean that 3x140mm fans offered no better temperatures than the stock dual F140SP intakes?
> 
> Do you know if there is a construction guide posted for that mount somewhere in this thread I can search for?


3x120 or 2x140. 3x140 does not fit.


----------



## AngryGoldfish

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> 3x120 or 2x140. 3x140 does not fit.


I think in the mATX EVOLV, 2x140mm fans intaking air and 1x140mm rear exhaust makes the most sense. The top front intake will be in a direct path to the CPU and to the rear exhaust, while the lower140mm fan will cool the HDD's in the bottom compartment and add additional cooling to the GPU.

I could also look into adding sound dampening material to the top panel, if I feel it needs it.

To fill out the large space between the motherboard and top panel in the mATX EVOLV where normally you'd install a radiator, I was thinking of installing the 5.25" bay in the rear and using a rear-mounted mechanical fan controller. I could install all five fans (includes CPU tower) into it and control the fan speed rather than using PWM, which has not always given me the silence (or, more accurately, consistency) I'm looking for.


----------



## vaoqeRG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> No....
> 
> and.....
> 
> No......if you are talking straight out of the box. But you can add bottom fans to the Primo which could help, then again, you can add a bottom fan to the Luxe if you remove the shroud....but then you shoule probably be looking at a Pro unless you are doing the Luxe for the look (which I see no issue with,the Luxe is great looking).


Can I add a bottom fan to the Pro?

And if I am air cooling, apart from great watercooling on Primo and Luxe, would getting the Pro provide similar performance? Sorry if these questions are seeming repetitive, you keep making me consider the the next tier down on the Enthoo line.

I do love the exterior look of both the Primo and Luxe, but if the performance with air cooling is the same I may opt for the Pro.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vaoqeRG*
> 
> Can I add a bottom fan to the Pro?
> 
> And if I am air cooling, apart from great watercooling on Primo and Luxe, would getting the Pro provide similar performance? Sorry if these questions are seeming repetitive, you keep making me consider the the next tier down on the Enthoo line.
> 
> I do love the exterior look of both the Primo and Luxe, but if the performance with air cooling is the same I may opt for the Pro.


The Pro and Luxe are essentially the same case. The Luxe has a taller trim kit on the top, LED and some additional accessories included. But, they are the same chassis.


----------



## vaoqeRG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> The Pro and Luxe are essentially the same case. The Luxe has a taller trim kit on the top, LED and some additional accessories included. But, they are the same chassis.


I see, many thanks


----------



## kwel

Hey everyone. I actually subscribed just for this thread. Mainly to ask for some help from people far smarter at this than I am.

First off sorry for the screen name. should be kwelz, but I mistyped it and need to message an admin for assistance in fixing that.

I recently tried moving my Custom loop from my Thermaltake X71 to a Phanteks Evolv ATX. Love the case. Looks amazing. Well laid out. Fits everything I need...

Until my system got under load that is. Then my Temps went through the roof. CPU temps under load in some games were in the mid 80s. But even more concerning was that my water temps got so high It caused high pressure in the loop and lead to a failure.

Setup was as follows:
6700K /6800k (Tried both processors and a X99 / Z170 Deluxe Mobo)
2x 980 Ti in SLI.

EK 280 Rad in the front pulling air in.
Ek 360 Rad up top exhausting air. (Push/Pull by modding the tray and top of case)
140MM fan in the rear exhausting air.

Now obviously this caused negative Air pressure. As far as I am able to tell the main issue came from the top radiator though. The air was being forced up through the Rad and then would just sit in the top since there is not enough ventilation. Because of this the radiator did not cool down and in fact was slowly heating up meaning the water moving though it was not cooling down. In a word Heatsoak. I had liquid temps in excess of 60C which can and indeed did burn me when I came into contact with it.

Now the real question is how this can be avoided.

I am wondering about flipping the top fans around and using them as intakes instead. In this situation I would have extreme positive Air pressure which in this case may solve the problem. However I worry that I will not be pulling enough air in through the top and will starve the radiator leading to similar issues. Another option would be to find a machine shop and have them do ventilation holes in the top, but that would ruin the lines of the case.

In short am i just asking too much of this case. If so then I will have to relegate it to a secondary system without the cooling needs of my main system. Which I REALLY don't want to do.

Thank you all.


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kwel*
> 
> Hey everyone. I actually subscribed just for this thread. Mainly to ask for some help from people far smarter at this than I am.
> 
> First off sorry for the screen name. should be kwelz, but I mistyped it and need to message an admin for assistance in fixing that.
> 
> I recently tried moving my Custom loop from my Thermaltake X71 to a Phanteks Evolv ATX. Love the case. Looks amazing. Well laid out. Fits everything I need...
> 
> Until my system got under load that is. Then my Temps went through the roof. CPU temps under load in some games were in the mid 80s. But even more concerning was that my water temps got so high It caused high pressure in the loop and lead to a failure.
> 
> Setup was as follows:
> 6700K /6800k (Tried both processors and a X99 / Z170 Deluxe Mobo)
> 2x 980 Ti in SLI.
> 
> EK 280 Rad in the front pulling air in.
> Ek 360 Rad up top exhausting air. (Push/Pull by modding the tray and top of case)
> 140MM fan in the rear exhausting air.
> 
> Now obviously this caused negative Air pressure. As far as I am able to tell the main issue came from the top radiator though. The air was being forced up through the Rad and then would just sit in the top since there is not enough ventilation. Because of this the radiator did not cool down and in fact was slowly heating up meaning the water moving though it was not cooling down. In a word Heatsoak. I had liquid temps in excess of 60C which can and indeed did burn me when I came into contact with it.
> 
> Now the real question is how this can be avoided.
> 
> I am wondering about flipping the top fans around and using them as intakes instead. In this situation I would have extreme positive Air pressure which in this case may solve the problem. However I worry that I will not be pulling enough air in through the top and will starve the radiator leading to similar issues. Another option would be to find a machine shop and have them do ventilation holes in the top, but that would ruin the lines of the case.
> 
> In short am i just asking too much of this case. If so then I will have to relegate it to a secondary system without the cooling needs of my main system. Which I REALLY don't want to do.
> 
> Thank you all.


First things first... HOLY







at 60c. Make sure you check your pump is still working. That is dangerously hot. I get nervous at 40c...

Try this for the remaining holes in the top cavity:
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rfarmer*
> 
> 
> 
> The guys with Evolv ATX have found that you need to cover the open area around your radiator mounted to the top bracket, this keeps hot air from reentering the case.


Your problem may actually be caused by the push pull setup and the close proximity of the top fan to the top of the case causing back pressure, causing hot air to actually go back through the fans and recirculate. The push fans then likely trap this air in the radiator fins. Now, this really should only be happening at high RPM. Try removing the pull fans and see if the temperatures go down.

I would switch your rear fan to intake so you get positive air pressure and some cool clean air.

Other than that, do you have a flow rate sensor? Does that water appear to be moving normally through the loop?


----------



## kwel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> First things first... HOLY
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> at 60c. Make sure you check your pump is still working. That is dangerously hot. I get nervous at 40c...
> 
> Try this for the remaining holes in the top cavity:
> Your problem may actually be caused by the push pull setup and the close proximity of the top fan to the top of the case causing back pressure, causing hot air to actually go back through the fans and recirculate. The push fans then likely trap this air in the radiator fins. Now, this really should only be happening at high RPM. Try removing the pull fans and see if the temperatures go down.
> 
> I would switch your rear fan to intake so you get positive air pressure and some cool clean air.
> 
> Other than that, do you have a flow rate sensor? Does that water appear to be moving normally through the loop?


The current Pump is actually brand new. The overheating caused damage to the last one but the problem persisted with the new pump as well although I was able to verity it was workign not long before the failure. And yes.. 60C. As in melt PETG and cause near instant burns to your skin hot. I wish I had video of the failure. It was.... Well it was something to see. Failure point was actually at the point the Res threaded into the D5 pump, not even at a fitting.

I will try all of this. removing the top fans and blocking off those areas. I honestly didn't think of that. And of course switching the rear fan around.

I have a fluke IR thermometer I have been using to keep track of temps in the system. These are after about 45 minutes in Guild Wars 2.

These are surface temps of course not actual water temps but they give you an idea of what is going on...


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kwel*
> 
> The current Pump is actually brand new. The overheating caused damage to the last one but the problem persisted with the new pump as well although I was able to verity it was workign not long before the failure. And yes.. 60C. As in melt PETG and cause near instant burns to your skin hot. I wish I had video of the failure. It was.... Well it was something to see. Failure point was actually at the point the Res threaded into the D5 pump, not even at a fitting.
> 
> I will try all of this. removing the top fans and blocking off those areas. I honestly didn't think of that. And of course switching the rear fan around.
> 
> I have a fluke IR thermometer I have been using to keep track of temps in the system. These are after about 45 minutes in Guild Wars 2.
> 
> These are surface temps of course not actual water temps but they give you an idea of what is going on...


That is crazy!

I have two Noctua 140mm 3000rpm fans on my top rad. I was doing some testing when I set up my loop... with the roof on and the fans at max speed I could actually feel the air coming back through the fans.

Best of luck!


----------



## pshootr

I have the Luxe, with a big air cooler. And My max gaming temp for CPU core is 58C


----------



## kwel

Well I started off hopeful. However things didn't go as planned. I played a bit of GW2 then a bit of WoW. CPU temps got up in the high 70s. I shut things down and drained some of the water. Results were 52.2C with the IR and a bit higher with an actual thermometer. I guess this case is going to get relegated to secondary use and I will go back to a larger tower. This makes me very sad to be honest.


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kwel*
> 
> Well I started off hopeful. However things didn't go as planned. I played a bit of GW2 then a bit of WoW. CPU temps got up in the high 70s. I shut things down and drained some of the water. Results were 52.2C with the IR and a bit higher with an actual thermometer. I guess this case is going to get relegated to secondary use and I will go back to a larger tower. This makes me very sad to be honest.


Can you please post a full pic of the loop as well as a list of loop components?


----------



## kwel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> Can you please post a full pic of the loop as well as a list of loop components?


Gladly. I have actually already started to drain it and have removed the back fan but this still shows the layout. It is also with soft tubing since I wanted to do some testing before I started cutting my glass.

Components are as follow:

6700K
Z170 Deluxe
32Gb Gskill Trident Z 3200Mhz RAM
2x EVGA 980 TI SC+
Evga P2 1000 PSU
Pump is an EK Revo D5 in a Pumptop/res combo.

Front Radiator is an EK 45mm x 280
Top Radiator is an EK 25mm x 360
Fans all around are Thermaltake Riing. 140s on the front and rear and 120s on the top.

Here is the photo.

Pretty simple loop. As you can see it goes Pump > GPU > Rad > CPU > Rad > Res


----------



## paskowitz

Don't jump the gun just yet.

This is the thing, if it was the case causing these issues, the temps may be a little bit higher (~45c). At 60c I can't help but feel you have some type component failure. If you leave the fans at max with the case open, and it is still hot, then it definitely isn't the case. I'm also assuming your ambient environment isn't like, the middle of the desert.


----------



## kwel

We keep the house at about 17.5 C. My office runs slightly hotter so call it maybe 20-21.

If I take the front and side panels off the temps drop drastically. 15C+ in most cases.

Going thought 2 Logic boards, and 3 processors makes me think it probably isn't a component failure on that side. But I am open to just about anything at this point.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kwel*
> 
> Hey everyone. I actually subscribed just for this thread. Mainly to ask for some help from people far smarter at this than I am.
> 
> First off sorry for the screen name. should be kwelz, but I mistyped it and need to message an admin for assistance in fixing that.
> 
> I recently tried moving my Custom loop from my Thermaltake X71 to a Phanteks Evolv ATX. Love the case. Looks amazing. Well laid out. Fits everything I need...
> 
> Until my system got under load that is. Then my Temps went through the roof. CPU temps under load in some games were in the mid 80s. But even more concerning was that my water temps got so high It caused high pressure in the loop and lead to a failure.
> 
> Setup was as follows:
> 6700K /6800k (Tried both processors and a X99 / Z170 Deluxe Mobo)
> 2x 980 Ti in SLI.
> 
> EK 280 Rad in the front pulling air in.
> Ek 360 Rad up top exhausting air. (Push/Pull by modding the tray and top of case)
> 140MM fan in the rear exhausting air.
> 
> Now obviously this caused negative Air pressure. As far as I am able to tell the main issue came from the top radiator though. The air was being forced up through the Rad and then would just sit in the top since there is not enough ventilation. Because of this the radiator did not cool down and in fact was slowly heating up meaning the water moving though it was not cooling down. In a word Heatsoak. I had liquid temps in excess of 60C which can and indeed did burn me when I came into contact with it.
> 
> Now the real question is how this can be avoided.
> 
> I am wondering about flipping the top fans around and using them as intakes instead. In this situation I would have extreme positive Air pressure which in this case may solve the problem. However I worry that I will not be pulling enough air in through the top and will starve the radiator leading to similar issues. Another option would be to find a machine shop and have them do ventilation holes in the top, but that would ruin the lines of the case.
> 
> In short am i just asking too much of this case. If so then I will have to relegate it to a secondary system without the cooling needs of my main system. Which I REALLY don't want to do.
> 
> Thank you all.


There are several possible causes, but the first thing I noticce is 3x 120mm & 1x 140mm exhaust fans with only 2x 140mm intake fans. This means case has a maximum of 2x 140mm fans airflow. The case can only flow as much air as the smaller of the two; intake or exhaust. What goes out must first come in / what comes in must be able to go out.

As paskowitz said, block all holes in the radiator tray that are covered by your 360 radiator.

As already said, remove the top panel as well as the front panel. Unplug rear fan or turn it into an intake. But as intake it's flow straight across top radiator fans may cause them to not work properly. . If system is still too hot it's not the case venting causing the problem.

I'm in agreement with others, it's not just a case issue, but something in coolant system not flowing properly.

What fans are you using and what are their speeds?

I assume you know how t remove the top, but just in case


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kwel*
> 
> We keep the house at about 17.5 C. My office runs slightly hotter so call it maybe 20-21.
> 
> If I take the front and side panels off the temps drop drastically. 15C+ in most cases.
> 
> Going thought 2 Logic boards, and 3 processors makes me think it probably isn't a component failure on that side. But I am open to just about anything at this point.


Well I don't see anything obviously wrong with the loop, and for the record it's nicely done, I like it! I don't own the case but have followed this thread from the beginning. The one constant I see is it's not the best airflow case, but there are a ton of water cooled builds in it without those kind of temps, so its for sure possible. I have personally always found running all my rads as intake gives best radiator performance, and I know your worried about starving the airflow that way, but I would chunk the push pull setup and go both rads as intake with one exhaust fan in the back and see how it goes. If that doesn't work and opening the case gives that much drop in temp then your probably going to have to make a vented top.


----------



## pez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> I haven't used the mATX, but have done extensive testing with the ATX. It is a quiet case, no question. I have played around with 3x120mm in the front (Noctua, GTs, F120MP, be quiet SW2) as well as a number of different 140mm (Noctua, Vardar, Thermalright). After all of the playing around, none of the combos were better than the F140SP included, and they are back in the case. One thing that does work very well is raising the two 140 above the midplate and adding an 80mm for the HDD - making a mount for it is a very simple process.


That actually sounds like a great idea actually. I might do that if I don't get rid of my HDDs from my main rig altogether.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kwel*
> 
> Ek 360 Rad up top exhausting air. (Push/Pull by modding the tray and top of case)


Why......just why.......


----------



## Chiobe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kwel*
> 
> EK 280 Rad in the front pulling air in.
> Ek 360 Rad up top exhausting air. (Push/Pull by modding the tray and top of case)
> 140MM fan in the rear exhausting air.


So basically 2x 140mm in and 6x 120mm+140mm out.
I have seen a lot of negative air pressure setups, but I think thats one of the more extreme once.

If the setup is still intact, put a fan to blow air away from the top of the case. Just to see if the case is reuse of hot air.


----------



## kwel

I have flipped around the top fans and have been testing. SO far it seems to have fixed the issue but I haven't had enough testing yet to be completely comfortable. I did run an intel burn test and it maxed out at 62C. This is indeed progress!


----------



## kwel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Why......just why.......


Because I was trying to do anything I could to increase airflow and keep it from overheating.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chiobe*
> 
> So basically 2x 140mm in and 6x 120mm+140mm out.
> I have seen a lot of negative air pressure setups, but I think thats one of the more extreme once.
> 
> If the setup is still intact, put a fan to blow air away from the top of the case. Just to see if the case is reuse of hot air.


Stacking fans in push/pull does not change their rated airflow. Depending on what their static pressure rating is, it may slightly increase overall flow.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kwel*
> 
> I have flipped around the top fans and have been testing. SO far it seems to have fixed the issue but I haven't had enough testing yet to be completely comfortable. I did run an intel burn test and it maxed out at 62C. This is indeed progress!


Sound like it's coming together now.


----------



## kwel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Sound like it's coming together now.


Yes sir it is. I am cautiously optimistic at this point.

I am going to test it tonight after work and then if everything seems to still be ok I am going to start cutting the class and getting everything finalized.

I have water-cooled a few builds but this one had me frustrated. I really appreciate all the help from everyone.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kwel*
> 
> Because I was trying to do anything I could to increase airflow and keep it from overheating.


Cramming fans against a panel in a restrictive space on a rad that really doesn't benefit from push/pull sounds just a little counterproductive.

You need to let the system breathe. Air needs to flow. More fans does not always mean more flow.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kwel*
> 
> Because I was trying to do anything I could to increase airflow and keep it from overheating.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kwel*
> 
> Yes sir it is. I am cautiously optimistic at this point.
> 
> I am going to test it tonight after work and then if everything seems to still be ok I am going to start cutting the class and getting everything finalized.
> 
> I have water-cooled a few builds but this one had me frustrated. I really appreciate all the help from everyone.


Glad we could help get you sorted.
Make sure you block all openings in radiator tray that are not blocked or used by radiator. If you need more info about spacing front and or top, let me know. Like I said before, just setting the top on without pushing it down into it's clips triples top vent area.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Cramming fans against a panel in a restrictive space on a rad that really doesn't benefit from push/pull sounds just a little counterproductive.
> 
> You need to let the system breathe. Air needs to flow. More fans does not always mean more flow.


No! Wrong! Politically incorrect!

It's not 'just a little counterproductive' it's goes against all now logic of the universe!








Having a thick front with single fans and a thin radiator up top with stacked fans is totally illogical, especially with a rear exhaust fan as well.

The logical thing might be to use stacked fans on front radiator so they can move more air a lower speed and makeup the needed airflow to supply top without any leaking in the back vents.


----------



## Damn Dirty Ape

Ok I hope this is the right place for this question!

My recent case history in the last 3 years has been the Define R4 then the NZXT H440 , which I am still using.

Here is what I have in it now: 6700k, 32gb Vengeance ram, asus z170 deluxe atx, evga 1080 ftw, nzxt x61 AIO, 3 stock intake fans the ones on the AIO and a rear 140 exit fan and an evga 850 p2 PSU.

I see some comments about the Evolv atx Tempered glass not being the quietest case on the market; if I'm very satisfied with the sound or lack thereof from my setup, those of you that have the evolv atx tg, or even the evolv atx how is the noise level compared to other cases you have used?

I really like the look of the TG version but I am a bit concerned since there is no sound damping like on the H440.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Damn Dirty Ape*
> 
> Ok I hope this is the right place for this question!
> 
> My recent case history in the last 3 years has been the Define R4 then the NZXT H440 , which I am still using.
> 
> Here is what I have in it now: 6700k, 32gb Vengeance ram, asus z170 deluxe atx, evga 1080 ftw, nzxt x61 AIO, 3 stock intake fans the ones on the AIO and a rear 140 exit fan and an evga 850 p2 PSU.
> 
> I see some comments about the Evolv atx Tempered glass not being the quietest case on the market; if I'm very satisfied with the sound or lack thereof from my setup, those of you that have the evolv atx tg, or even the evolv atx how is the noise level compared to other cases you have used?
> 
> I really like the look of the TG version but I am a bit concerned since there is no sound damping like on the H440.


Apples and oranges. The EVOLV ATX is a fairly quiet case but has good airflow capabilities. The H440 has notoriously bad airflow....and if air isn't flowing it won't make any noise. So, no, it is not as quiet as an H440, but it breathes far better.


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Damn Dirty Ape*
> 
> Ok I hope this is the right place for this question!
> 
> My recent case history in the last 3 years has been the Define R4 then the NZXT H440 , which I am still using.
> 
> Here is what I have in it now: 6700k, 32gb Vengeance ram, asus z170 deluxe atx, evga 1080 ftw, nzxt x61 AIO, 3 stock intake fans the ones on the AIO and a rear 140 exit fan and an evga 850 p2 PSU.
> 
> I see some comments about the Evolv atx Tempered glass not being the quietest case on the market; if I'm very satisfied with the sound or lack thereof from my setup, those of you that have the evolv atx tg, or even the evolv atx how is the noise level compared to other cases you have used?
> 
> I really like the look of the TG version but I am a bit concerned since there is no sound damping like on the H440.


Like ciarlatano said, it is a matter of perspective. I went from an R4 to the Evolv ATX TG and the R4 is the quieter case. However, is the Evolv "loud"? No. Compared to an Air 540 it is whisper quiet. I haven't done any testing but I did add some sound dampening neoprene to my Evolv (front panel, top panel, bottom floor, back rear res mount hear PCI screws, etc). I would say it is now a "little" quieter than when I first got it. If you want, this is an inexpensive ($15 on amazon) add on.


----------



## Asyde

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kwel*
> 
> Yes sir it is. I am cautiously optimistic at this point.
> 
> I am going to test it tonight after work and then if everything seems to still be ok I am going to start cutting the class and getting everything finalized.
> 
> I have water-cooled a few builds but this one had me frustrated. I really appreciate all the help from everyone.


I recently finished my build and found the phanteks case to be problematic in terms keeping temps down. Like you I have a 360 exhaust up top and a 280 intake up front, but i'm not running push pull like you.

When I first got the system going I didn't install my front or top cover cause I was worried about airflow and wanted to get a good baseline. My idle GPU/CPU temps were around 30°C and load temps maxed around 45-50°C. As soon as I installed the front and top cover, my idle temps rose to 40°C and load to just over 60°C. The top cover in particular is very restrictive, and causes a lot of ambient heat to make its way back into the case. Mid-game, as soon as i took the top cover off my temps dropped within a few minutes back to my baseline average.

It's tempting to hide fans up top for a low profile push/pull configuration, but it's just not worth it unless you remove the top cover. You'll have too much air pressure up top and you'll be creating a vicious heat cycle back into your case.


----------



## kwel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Asyde*
> 
> I recently finished my build and found the phanteks case to be problematic in terms keeping temps down. Like you I have a 360 exhaust up top and a 280 intake up front, but i'm not running push pull like you.
> 
> When I first got the system going I didn't install my front or top cover cause I was worried about airflow and wanted to get a good baseline. My idle GPU/CPU temps were around 30°C and load temps maxed around 45-50°C. As soon as I installed the front and top cover, my idle temps rose to 40°C and load to just over 60°C. The top cover in particular is very restrictive, and causes a lot of ambient heat to make its way back into the case. Mid-game, as soon as i took the top cover off my temps dropped within a few minutes back to my baseline average.
> 
> It's tempting to hide fans up top for a low profile push/pull configuration, but it's just not worth it unless you remove the top cover. You'll have too much air pressure up top and you'll be creating a vicious heat cycle back into your case.


I saw your posts earlier in the thread and it is the only reason I hadn't given up. I still worry that the second card is what is pushing mine over the top. Perhaps when the 1080Ti comes out I can consider that... Just dont' know at this point. I just got home from showing my last house for the day so I am going to do some more testing..


----------



## Asyde

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kwel*
> 
> I saw your posts earlier in the thread and it is the only reason I hadn't given up. I still worry that the second card is what is pushing mine over the top. Perhaps when the 1080Ti comes out I can consider that... Just dont' know at this point. I just got home from showing my last house for the day so I am going to do some more testing..


I see 2 things potentially causing issues for you here.

Since the case is pretty naturally restrictive, we need to make sure there is a good balance of intake to exhaust. If I were you, i would try to simulate my setup with 2x140mm in, 3x 120mm & 1x 140mm out. I realize that is a fairly negative air pressure, but you've got 2 in 6 out into a very restrictive area. I can see this causing you all sorts of ambient heat problems. Try removing the top 3 hidden fans all together and install the extra exhaust out the back. I think you'll have much better performance that way.

Second, as for the graphics card, i believe the case can handle it. However if I were you I would try to install them in series, instead of parallel to increase your flowrates. The best ways to bring coolant temps down in the loop are increase rad surface area (more/larger rads) or up the flowrates.

I think the combination of upping your flow rate and getting rid of all that extra ambient heat will help you a lot.


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Damn Dirty Ape*
> 
> Ok I hope this is the right place for this question!
> 
> My recent case history in the last 3 years has been the Define R4 then the NZXT H440 , which I am still using.
> 
> Here is what I have in it now: 6700k, 32gb Vengeance ram, asus z170 deluxe atx, evga 1080 ftw, nzxt x61 AIO, 3 stock intake fans the ones on the AIO and a rear 140 exit fan and an evga 850 p2 PSU.
> 
> I see some comments about the Evolv atx Tempered glass not being the quietest case on the market; if I'm very satisfied with the sound or lack thereof from my setup, those of you that have the evolv atx tg, or even the evolv atx how is the noise level compared to other cases you have used?
> 
> I really like the look of the TG version but I am a bit concerned since there is no sound damping like on the H440.


noise level depends 100% on the hardware you have inside. my H440 system wasn't quiet at all because I had the H100i and a reference R9 290 in it. it got better when I changed to a sapphire Tri X gpu. anyway, this person seems very happy with the same switch you're considering.


----------



## Kyouki

Little progress update in the phanteks case.


----------



## Asyde

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kyouki*
> 
> Little progress update in the phanteks case.


Looks great man! However, are you planning on modding the chassis up top to hide 3 pull fans? if so, see the past few pages of comments. This case really struggles with airflow out the top and its so restrictive that you'll get noticeably higher temps with fans installed up there.


----------



## Kyouki

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Asyde*
> 
> Looks great man! However, are you planning on modding the chassis up top to hide 3 pull fans? if so, see the past few pages of comments. This case really struggles with airflow out the top and its so restrictive that you'll get noticeably higher temps with fans installed up there.


You can check the build log out here http://www.overclock.net/t/1607002/ all I did was cut the frame to fit the fans. I really love this case so I hope it does well on temps.


----------



## imabasser

How bad would it be to pull in air from the top and front while having the single fan out the back? That should create a large positive pressure in the case which could be slightly mitigated by decreasing the RPM of the input fans. I also wouldn't think that would degrade performance too much by decreasing the airflow, especially considering the exhaust out the top seems to be causing heat circulation issues.


----------



## Kyouki

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *imabasser*
> 
> How bad would it be to pull in air from the top and front while having the single fan out the back? That should create a large positive pressure in the case which could be slightly mitigated by decreasing the RPM of the input fans. I also wouldn't think that would degrade performance too much by decreasing the airflow, especially considering the exhaust out the top seems to be causing heat circulation issues.


I have my top fan set to intake with front. Once it finished I'll post back.


----------



## Asyde

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kyouki*
> 
> You can check the build log out here http://www.overclock.net/t/1607002/ all I did was cut the frame to fit the fans. I really love this case so I hope it does well on temps.


Yeah, modding the case is fairly standard if you want to hide some fans up there. Not a bad mod, but I still think you may run into temp issues like most of us who use large rads up top because the top cover is so restrictive.

Good news though, I just got off the phone with Phanteks, and they said you can buy a replacement top cover for $20. I may just do that so i can freely mod the top cover with mesh insert so it can breath without having to worry about ******* it up.


----------



## pshootr

I love my case. But the (rear) clips for the top filter failed after removing it a few times. So now I have the top filter unfastened, and it sticks up.


----------



## pamela82

Good morning everyone.

So i wanted a purple computer so after looking around i found the phanteks eclipse p400. I orderd it and got the 2m led lights to go with it.

So hubby put it in the computer shop tp be built. As he didn't want to build it himself and didnt have time to.

So this morning i get a phone call from computer shop saying they wouldn't install the 2m of lcd lights because it wouldn't fit in the case.

Please people tell me 2m would fit into the case?

My hubby said he would install them himself but has anyone put in 2m of led light fine? Thanks


----------



## pshootr

Sounds like some extra from the strip could be tucked away easily enough. I guess let your husband do it. Your shop sounds lazy.


----------



## dlewbell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pamela82*
> 
> Good morning everyone.
> 
> So i wanted a purple computer so after looking around i found the phanteks eclipse p400. I orderd it and got the 2m led lights to go with it.
> 
> So hubby put it in the computer shop tp be built. As he didn't want to build it himself and didnt have time to.
> 
> So this morning i get a phone call from computer shop saying they wouldn't install the 2m of lcd lights because it wouldn't fit in the case.
> 
> Please people tell me 2m would fit into the case?
> 
> My hubby said he would install them himself but has anyone put in 2m of led light fine? Thanks


It depends on your definition of "fit". I've got the Enthoo Luxe with a 2m LED, & it's still so long that the ends overlap by a few inches. Your P400 is about 20% smaller and has the full PSU cover which makes the space for the LED even smaller. It likely would overlap for half the case. That doesn't mean that it can't be used though. If you want, you can leave it doubled up in a section of the case, or I believe you can cut it to your desired length to avoid the overlap, though I haven't tested that myself. Either way, just have them ship the LED strip & install it at home.


----------



## pshootr

I would not recommend cutting it.


----------



## Kyouki

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Asyde*
> 
> Yeah, modding the case is fairly standard if you want to hide some fans up there. Not a bad mod, but I still think you may run into temp issues like most of us who use large rads up top because the top cover is so restrictive.
> 
> Good news though, I just got off the phone with Phanteks, and they said you can buy a replacement top cover for $20. I may just do that so i can freely mod the top cover with mesh insert so it can breath without having to worry about ******* it up.


Nice only $20 that's worth it.


----------



## pamela82

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pshootr*
> 
> Sounds like some extra from the strip could be tucked away easily enough. I guess let your husband do it. Your shop sounds lazy.


Yeah very lazy :-(

I told them i wanted it before the 31st of august so i could play the new WoW thats coming out as my pc now can't handle it 

Thank god for hubbys that know how to make things better. All i wanted was a purple computer and you can't find many around here.


----------



## pamela82

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dlewbell*
> 
> It depends on your definition of "fit". I've got the Enthoo Luxe with a 2m LED, & it's still so long that the ends overlap by a few inches. Your P400 is about 20% smaller and has the full PSU cover which makes the space for the LED even smaller. It likely would overlap for half the case. That doesn't mean that it can't be used though. If you want, you can leave it doubled up in a section of the case, or I believe you can cut it to your desired length to avoid the overlap, though I haven't tested that myself. Either way, just have them ship the LED strip & install it at home.


Thanks i just told hubby to go around the pc a few times and let the other stuff just be tucked away  not to sure on cutting i would never cut lcd lights. it will be mighty purple now


----------



## imabasser

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kyouki*
> 
> I have my top fan set to intake with front. Once it finished I'll post back.


I definitely would be interested in hearing the results. Thanks!


----------



## jodasanchezz

Fi´nished my Build,
just waiting for hy 1080 Classy (will arive Tomorrow







to Switch the 1070


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Asyde*
> 
> I recently finished my build and found the phanteks case to be problematic in terms keeping temps down. Like you I have a 360 exhaust up top and a 280 intake up front, but i'm not running push pull like you.
> 
> When I first got the system going I didn't install my front or top cover cause I was worried about airflow and wanted to get a good baseline. My idle GPU/CPU temps were around 30°C and load temps maxed around 45-50°C. As soon as I installed the front and top cover, my idle temps rose to 40°C and load to just over 60°C. The top cover in particular is very restrictive, and causes a lot of ambient heat to make its way back into the case. Mid-game, as soon as i took the top cover off my temps dropped within a few minutes back to my baseline average.
> 
> It's tempting to hide fans up top for a low profile push/pull configuration, but it's just not worth it unless you remove the top cover. You'll have too much air pressure up top and you'll be creating a vicious heat cycle back into your case.


If you have not sealed the radiator tray to stop from above back down into case you are not going to run cool.

Fans need at least 40mm clearance to have even a chance of flowing air. A 140mm fan has an airflow area of 144sq cm . A 140mm circle 40mm tall has an airflow area of 175sq cm. If there are 2 fans side by side, 1/4th of each fan flow area is compromised and we have 132sq cm airflow area. 3 fans in a row means center fan only has 1/2 of this airflow area open .. that is 88sq cm airflow area to the fan's 144sq cm.

But the bottom line here is if I can cool a [email protected] and KFA GTX 770 LTD OC and not hear it 4 feet away from me the Enthoo Evolv ATX is definitely a cool and quiet case.








And I still love your rigid tubing layout!


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *imabasser*
> 
> How bad would it be to pull in air from the top and front while having the single fan out the back? That should create a large positive pressure in the case which could be slightly mitigated by decreasing the RPM of the input fans. I also wouldn't think that would degrade performance too much by decreasing the airflow, especially considering the exhaust out the top seems to be causing heat circulation issues.


Doing that will limit airflow to only what the back venting can flow .. which is much smaller area then top and front venting. While it might work (I've seen air do stranger things), in theory it is a step backwards.


----------



## NiKiZ

Aww yeah, got some stuff today!







I'll post a picture of my system later.


----------



## imabasser

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Doing that will limit airflow to only what the back venting can flow .. which is much smaller area then top and front venting. While it might work (I've seen air do stranger things), in theory it is a step backwards.


I would assume that all the other passive air pathways (holes in the case) would compensate for the increased pressure. I agree the intake fans will be working harder, or in other words building pressure, but air will only build to what the case and its holes can hold. I am still waiting to see what Kyouki sees when he sets it up this way before I make my final claims.


----------



## Kyouki

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *imabasser*
> 
> I would assume that all the other passive air pathways (holes in the case) would compensate for the increased pressure. I agree the intake fans will be working harder, or in other words building pressure, but air will only build to what the case and its holes can hold. I am still waiting to see what Kyouki sees when he sets it up this way before I make my final claims.


I wish I could tell you right away, my build should be done by end of this month though! just waiting on a back plate for the Titan and few little parts and ill report back.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *imabasser*
> 
> I would assume that all the other passive air pathways (holes in the case) would compensate for the increased pressure. I agree the intake fans will be working harder, or in other words building pressure, but air will only build to what the case and its holes can hold. I am still waiting to see what Kyouki sees when he sets it up this way before I make my final claims.


The total area of 'other passive air pathways' is not very many square cm in area .. and airflow area of exhaust needs to be at least as much as intake airflow area or it means more resistance and that means less airflow


----------



## imabasser

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kyouki*
> 
> I wish I could tell you right away, my build should be done by end of this month though! just waiting on a back plate for the Titan and few little parts and ill report back.


That's fine. I am still in the planning phase of my build, so I have time on my hands. I appreciate the forward progress other people have made so that I can benefit from it.


----------



## Asyde

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> If you have not sealed the radiator tray to stop from above back down into case you are not going to run cool.
> 
> Fans need at least 40mm clearance to have even a chance of flowing air. A 140mm fan has an airflow area of 144sq cm . A 140mm circle 40mm tall has an airflow area of 175sq cm. If there are 2 fans side by side, 1/4th of each fan flow area is compromised and we have 132sq cm airflow area. 3 fans in a row means center fan only has 1/2 of this airflow area open .. that is 88sq cm airflow area to the fan's 144sq cm.
> 
> But the bottom line here is if I can cool a [email protected] and KFA GTX 770 LTD OC and not hear it 4 feet away from me the Enthoo Evolv ATX is definitely a cool and quiet case.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And I still love your rigid tubing layout!


Ahh, good explanation. I plan on installing a little bit high density sound mat in the case to bring the DBs down just a little, i'll use that to seal up the top area when I do.

Phanteks said I could buy a replacement top cover for $20, so i'm considering going that route and just modding the top so it can breath. But i'll try sealing it first I'll let you know how it goes!

Thanks for the info.


----------



## Terra Oroboroz

Does the galaxy silver color on the Evolv Glass matches completely the classic silver used on apple products? On pictures it looks completely white to me. Thanks :}


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Terra Oroboroz*
> 
> Does the galaxy silver color on the Evolv Glass matches completely the classic silver used on apple products? On pictures it looks completely white to me. Thanks :}


In natural light it is close to Apple's silver color.


----------



## pez

I tested out my new-to-me ITX board yesterday in the Evolv ITX and already forgot how great it is to build in that thing. The fact that that top panel can be removed is such a great feature for this case. If only we could get a TG Evolv ITX







.


----------



## NiKiZ

A bit bad picture, but the build is starting to look the way I want to. The only thing I really need to change now, is the GPU. I was a bit disappointed that the PSU label isn't completely visible.







Yes, I know the 5 1/4 bay can be removed, but I am planning to install a memory card reader in there.

The computer is MUCH quieter, when I replaced the PSU and the radiator fans. Now I can hear the pump and it annoys me..


----------



## KaptainK

Hey Phanteks club members !

I'm looking for some good inspiration or feedback to build a custom loop in my Evolv (the original mATX !)
First , I'll just set up a simple loop only the CPU , but later I will spread it to the GPU that I will change at this time

So if anyone has resources to share , I'm interested.
Thanks !


----------



## Terra Oroboroz

Thanks!

In this build it matches that macbook nicely. The owner said that it's the silver version, but I want to be sure before I order it.

https://pcpartpicker.com/b/HqccCJ


----------



## Dyekid217

Hey all I posted this in water cooling but perhaps this is the better section.

I've had this loop set up for a while in my Enthoo Pro and it's really not the most ideal mounting position for my res. I need to drain my loop since it's been about a year and am looking to mount my XSPC Photon 170 tube res in a more ideal location. I'm struggling as it is with space since my tube res is just sitting on top of the PSU cover. Is my res too big for the case? I'm not sure of any other way to mount it inside as the Hard Drive bay has a cover and my GPU is quite large.

Where it is currently is really the only place I can fit it unless I can find a way to remove the drive bays. (Haven't looked into this)

What would you all suggest? Getting a smaller pump/res combo? If so, what size should i be looking for?


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dyekid217*
> 
> Hey all I posted this in water cooling but perhaps this is the better section.
> 
> I've had this loop set up for a while in my Enthoo Pro and it's really not the most ideal mounting position for my res. I need to drain my loop since it's been about a year and am looking to mount my XSPC Photon 170 tube res in a more ideal location. I'm struggling as it is with space since my tube res is just sitting on top of the PSU cover. Is my res too big for the case? I'm not sure of any other way to mount it inside as the Hard Drive bay has a cover and my GPU is quite large.
> 
> Where it is currently is really the only place I can fit it unless I can find a way to remove the drive bays. (Haven't looked into this)
> 
> What would you all suggest? Getting a smaller pump/res combo? If so, what size should i be looking for?


I understand your dilemma. The Photon is an incredible looking reservoir that just happens too be the slightest bit too big to fit in many places. I did find a way to fit it in the Luxe with a 277mm graphics card, but for the life of me I don't recall exactly what it was (I had a Luxe and Evolv ATX at the time, eventually decided to go with the Evolv). I do recall that it needed to be mounted to HDD/ODD cover panel, and not to the res mount. I have also seen the Photon in the rear res mount of the Pro/Luxe, but it is tight and does not fit with all GPUs.

You could go over to an EK Revo, but when you put it next to the Photon you will be pretty disappointed (that goes for almost any res). I wound up replacing my Photon with a Monsoon MMRS (only because I really wanted a pump/res combo) and the MMRS is pretty incredible and doesn't look cheap next to the Photon.....but I have no idea what configuration of it will fit in the Pro res mount, or if it will at all. You might want to ask @BoxGods for some measurements if you are interested in an MMRS system - http://www.overclock.net/t/1567067/new-products-from-monsoon-cooling/2880

BTW - if you can turn your rad and res around, you would be able to make cleaner tubing runs and wouldn't need to hop over the GPU.


----------



## Dyekid217

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> I understand your dilemma. The Photon is an incredible looking reservoir that just happens too be the slightest bit too big to fit in many places. I did find a way to fit it in the Luxe with a 277mm graphics card, but for the life of me I don't recall exactly what it was (I had a Luxe and Evolv ATX at the time, eventually decided to go with the Evolv). I do recall that it needed to be mounted to HDD/ODD cover panel, and not to the res mount. I have also seen the Photon in the rear res mount of the Pro/Luxe, but it is tight and does not fit with all GPUs.
> 
> You could go over to an EK Revo, but when you put it next to the Photon you will be pretty disappointed (that goes for almost any res). I wound up replacing my Photon with a Monsoon MMRS (only because I really wanted a pump/res combo) and the MMRS is pretty incredible and doesn't look cheap next to the Photon.....but I have no idea what configuration of it will fit in the Pro res mount, or if it will at all. You might want to ask @BoxGods for some measurements if you are interested in an MMRS system - http://www.overclock.net/t/1567067/new-products-from-monsoon-cooling/2880
> 
> BTW - if you can turn your rad and res around, you would be able to make cleaner tubing runs and wouldn't need to hop over the GPU.


That last suggestion may be the fix that I'm looking for. I know with the size of the photon it's going to be very hard to fit it inside the Enthoo Pro without modding the case. I may have tried this when initially installing the res and perhaps the pump wires came up a bit short? I'm not sure I may have to check it out when I get home.

Other than that option what is a common size res that most people can fit inside their Enthoo Pro?


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dyekid217*
> 
> That last suggestion may be the fix that I'm looking for. I know with the size of the photon it's going to be very hard to fit it inside the Enthoo Pro without modding the case. I may have tried this when initially installing the res and perhaps the pump wires came up a bit short? I'm not sure I may have to check it out when I get home.
> 
> Other than that option what is a common size res that most people can fit inside their Enthoo Pro?


i had a 100mm on the res mount but i have 290s with swiftech le blocks so that might have given me the room for it to fit there...tube diameter is what really limits the fit on the res mount especially with large graphics cards


----------



## Dyekid217

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> i had a 100mm on the res mount but i have 290s with swiftech le blocks so that might have given me the room for it to fit there...tube diameter is what really limits the fit on the res mount especially with large graphics cards


Ok it looks like I'm just going to try to reconfigure my loop setup so there's not so much pressure on the pump tubing since it's looping around the graphics card. Which is really my only concern...


----------



## mfknjadagr8

R
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dyekid217*
> 
> Ok it looks like I'm just going to try to reconfigure my loop setup so there's not so much pressure on the pump tubing since it's looping around the graphics card. Which is really my only concern...


remember theres knockouts you could possibly use to route around but it might look funky without passthrough fittings and a proper elbow fitting for the rear


----------



## Awesomeguy10578

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaptainK*
> 
> Hey Phanteks club members !
> 
> I'm looking for some good inspiration or feedback to build a custom loop in my Evolv (the original mATX !)
> First , I'll just set up a simple loop only the CPU , but later I will spread it to the GPU that I will change at this time
> 
> So if anyone has resources to share , I'm interested.
> Thanks !


Just a tip. Only use 240 rads or you won't be able to fit a harddrive on the sidemounts


----------



## KaptainK

Hdd will be external.
I was planning to use HWlabs gts 240 but they are too wide.


----------



## Damn Dirty Ape

As far as using the phantek led strips on the evolv atx glass, am I better off to get a 2m and work it around for front and the back side or get two 1m? Also I notice the led strip connection has two connectors but the wire is pretty short. Are the leads long enough on the 1m to arrange them properly and use the two connectors?


----------



## NiKiZ

I took a better picture from of my system. I did some cable management too, when I changed the fans from the pump to the motherboard instead. Also made the 24-pin prettier.


----------



## jassilamba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Damn Dirty Ape*
> 
> As far as using the phantek led strips on the evolv atx glass, am I better off to get a 2m and work it around for front and the back side or get two 1m? Also I notice the led strip connection has two connectors but the wire is pretty short. Are the leads long enough on the 1m to arrange them properly and use the two connectors?


If you get the kit, it should come with a extension cable. The RGB connector on the case is just long enough for you to be able to connect a cable to the top or front inner side of the case. In my build I have 3 X 1m cables, and they are the perfect length, I'm also using a board that has an RGB header on it (X99 Ultra Gaming) and have 2 strips connected to that (one front other back), and I have the third one connected to the case RGB cable and installed in the top back of the case..

Here is a crappy picture to show what I mean. The 2 strips that are set to red are actually connected together with the extension cable that comes in the kit.


----------



## Damn Dirty Ape

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jassilamba*
> 
> If you get the kit, it should come with a extension cable. The RGB connector on the case is just long enough for you to be able to connect a cable to the top or front inner side of the case. In my build I have 3 X 1m cables, and they are the perfect length, I'm also using a board that has an RGB header on it (X99 Ultra Gaming) and have 2 strips connected to that (one front other back), and I have the third one connected to the case RGB cable and installed in the top back of the case..
> 
> Here is a crappy picture to show what I mean. The 2 strips that are set to red are actually connected together with the extension cable that comes in the kit.


The only kits I'm seeing on phanteks are a different type of led strip?


----------



## jassilamba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Damn Dirty Ape*
> 
> The only kits I'm seeing on phanteks are a different type of led strip?


These are what I'm using - http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811984008


----------



## dmfree88

Not sure if these are any good but they are on sale:

https://www.amazon.com/TaoTronics-Colored-Lights-Outdoor-Decoration/dp/B006K0JYD8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1471568542&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=led+strip&psc=1


----------



## jassilamba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmfree88*
> 
> Not sure if these are any good but they are on sale:
> 
> https://www.amazon.com/TaoTronics-Colored-Lights-Outdoor-Decoration/dp/B006K0JYD8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1471568542&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=led+strip&psc=1


They are great as long you are okay with not being able to control those LEDs with the case RGB controller. You could order yourself this cable, and use this to hook up almost any LED strip to the case - https://www.amazon.com/Electop-Pair-Female-Connector-Light/dp/B0140KO7K4/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1471572551&sr=8-2&keywords=4+pin+connector


----------



## NiKiZ

By the way, is there any way to make the power LED less bright on the Phanteks Enthoo Pro M? It is too damn bright and when the computer is in sleep mode, it blinks.







I have difficulties getting sleep, unless I put something over it.


----------



## dmfree88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NiKiZ*
> 
> By the way, is there any way to make the power LED less bright on the Phanteks Enthoo Pro M? It is too damn bright and when the computer is in sleep mode, it blinks.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have difficulties getting sleep, unless I put something over it.


A layer or 2 of fingernail polish? Use something thin enough you could probably allow some light through if you want it. Use something thick if you just want to cover it completely. I would imagine you can also disable it by cutting a wire but I have not looked at the backend of the button to see how it is built.


----------



## NiKiZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmfree88*
> 
> A layer or 2 of fingernail polish? Use something thin enough you could probably allow some light through if you want it. Use something thick if you just want to cover it completely. I would imagine you can also disable it by cutting a wire but I have not looked at the backend of the button to see how it is built.


I just want it less bright, not disable it. The nail polish is a nice idea, but it is permanent and I don't want that. I have to look how it is built. I am thinking of using a thin, black piece of plastic, which will let some light through and putting it over the LEDs.







I could make an adapter with a resistor, which will make it less bright, but I don't have the materials for that.


----------



## OneFunGenesis

You could buy some tint film off of ebay for a few dollars and stick that to it?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/12-x60-Gloss-Light-Black-Smoke-HeadLight-Tailight-Fog-light-Tint-Film-Vinyl-/222023291314?hash=item33b19e91b2:g:zDoAAOSwrhlXThoR&vxp=mtr


----------



## NiKiZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneFunGenesis*
> 
> You could buy some tint film off of ebay for a few dollars and stick that to it?
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/12-x60-Gloss-Light-Black-Smoke-HeadLight-Tailight-Fog-light-Tint-Film-Vinyl-/222023291314?hash=item33b19e91b2:g:zDoAAOSwrhlXThoR&vxp=mtr


That's a nice idea! My friend might have some laying around, I'll have to ask him.


----------



## OneFunGenesis

Happy to help! I have used that on all types of stuff. I have a few feet left lying around somewhere lol


----------



## doyll

Most automotive parts and accessory shops have it too.


----------



## ciarlatano

Looks like I'm going to take one for the team. Just ordered the Phanteks GPU block, and I can not find a single comment from an actual user anywhere. Good thing I trust these guys......


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Looks like I'm going to take one for the team. Just ordered the Phanteks GPU block, and I can not find a single comment from an actual user anywhere. Good thing I trust these guys......


nice. looking forward to your account on this thing.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PureBlackFire*
> 
> nice. looking forward to your account on this thing.


Just hoping it fits on my EVGA SC with no hassle. I assume that worst case, I need to get new screws and cut them to custom length. Phanteks only lists the FE as compatible, but NewEgg also lists the SC and the hardware looks like it should work, we shall see.....

And thankfully I happen to have a Phanteks RGB circuit from a Luxe laying around. I am going to have to figure out how to make it easily accessible and out of the way in the Evolv....or just use white LEDs to begin with.


----------



## PureBlackFire

most EVGA cards use the reference pcb and components anyway. cards that say "+,++" or "classified" are usually the only exceptions. it should fit.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PureBlackFire*
> 
> most EVGA cards use the reference pcb and components anyway. cards that say "+,++" or "classified" are usually the only exceptions. it should fit.


The PCB isn't a concern, it is a reference. My concern is getting the EVGA backplate to work with the block. Phanteks doesn't make a backplate, and says the FE backplate is compatible, but is vague on the EVGA backplate.


----------



## rx7racer

delete


----------



## TeslaHUN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rx7racer*
> 
> Well here is my final iteration of this build, not yet perfect but close enough for gov't work


Not bad, but the cooling isnt correct.
U must set the 2 front fan as intake . And forget the arctic fans on top , those are very bad fans.
I would put 2x akasa apache in front and 2x apache on top . (or alpenföhn wing boost 2 if u have smaller budget) .They are designed as radiator fans. good static pressure.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TeslaHUN*
> 
> Not bad, but the cooling isnt correct.
> U must set the 2 front fan as intake . And forget the arctic fans on top , those are very bad fans.
> I would put 2x akasa apache in front and 2x apache on top . (or alpenföhn wing boost 2 if u have smaller budget) .They are designed as radiator fans. good static pressure.


I can understand you making this assumption, but it's only true if top fans are exhasut. If they are intake than front fans as exhaust makes sense.

@rx7racer, could you explain how your airflow is setup?


----------



## PureBlackFire

another nice build. love this channel.


----------



## xTesla1856

Anyone know how to polish a scratch out of my Enthoo Luxe sidepanel ?


----------



## rx7racer

delete


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rx7racer*
> 
> Sure, as I said in that post, Rear is intake, top exhaust, front exhaust. Working well enough compared to other variations I tried.
> 
> And PureBackFire, nice build there indeed on that Phanteks case.


I'm betting it runs cooler with case open.


----------



## rx7racer

delete


----------



## doyll

I would thing top in front out or front in top out would work better, There simply is not enough intake airflow area for both top and front to be exhaust.

I'm still betting if you leave the front on and open left side it will run much cooler.


----------



## rx7racer

delete


----------



## Kyouki

Getting closer to being done!



Just waiting on backplate for the Titan XP then ill get it leak tested and finished photos!


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xTesla1856*
> 
> Anyone know how to polish a scratch out of my Enthoo Luxe sidepanel ?


if it's in the metal youll need something else but plastx works great on the window


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rx7racer*
> 
> Don't want an open case and too much heat comes off these rads.
> 
> I'm running 2 x 240mm rads.
> Snip
> Also for intake and exhaust it's not about size of area per se, it's all about cfm numbers. I have about 100cfm coming in for airflow through rear intake. Then for exhaust I probably have right about 120 cfm as exhaust. So dealing with negative pressure but better than dumping heat into case even with positive pressure in this small of a space.
> 
> This as I said is my experience with it. If you all run an Evolve ITX with 2 x 240mm rads and have them as intake and it works wonders, awesome, would never tell you to change it if your temps are low and right where you want them. For me this cases air flow is too restricted for 2 x 240mm rads and it has really quick heat build up inside during actual use.


First you say intake and exhaust is not about area, then you say case airflow is restricted .. can't have it both ways. If it is not about area, what is restriction? Case having negative pressure is because the intake is more resricted than exhaust. You have a single intake fan and a very small vent with no fan on the back trying to supply the airflow used by 2x 240mm radiators. It doesn't take rocket science to see how much less intake flow is available than exhaust. and the air has to flow into case before it can flow out. The flow through your 2x 240 radiators is only as much as the back intake and vent flow into case.

CFM rating means almost nothing. After all it's the airflow rating in open space with no resistance. It is only relevant if you are using the fans by setting them on an clean bench or hanging them on strings. No idea how you are coming up with the 100cmf and 120cfm figures, but they are obviously wrong. If they were correct, opening the side cover would not lower temps.

If you have 100cfm flowing in you have 100cfm flowing out. A case can only flow the lessor of the intake or exhaust. It makes no difference how much cfm rating your fans have, If 100cfm of air flowing in, you will have 100cfm flowing out. If there is more flowing out the case's negative pressure will continue to increase until it sucks itself into a metal ball. Now you will say don't be ridiculous and this will not happen .. and with computer cases and fans this is true. But the concept is valid. Airflow is fluid dynamics. Think of your case as a water tank, the fans as pumps and the vents as holes in the tank. Pumps put water in and pumps take water out, but the pumps taking water out can only take out as much water as in coming in .. either being pumped in or leaking in through holes. So if there is 1 pump and a few holes putting water into the tank the most that can be pumped out is that one pump's volume and what little the holes are leakng in .. which is obviously much less than 4 pumps can take out if they have all the water they can pump.

I really don't care if you improve your cooling or not. Enjoy your system any way you want. But don't use false logic trying to justify it. The facts are all too obvious .. you do not have enough intake airflow to keep up with the needs of 2x 240 radiators..


----------



## rx7racer

delete


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rx7racer*
> 
> Spot on, now you know why I run it the way I do for the temps I need and able to not recirculate all the rads heat.
> 
> And I'm getting it by combining an estimated ability of the fans for intake and exhaust. Such as for exhaust I have in theory open 2 fans that could potentially move 110 cfm, both running 100%, so after restrictions they may be wanting to try to do 45-50cfm each at 100% fan speed.
> 
> Think about what you know and how I described my setup, apply your own tutorials.
> 
> It's not hard to see where I get my numbers from, go read about your fans and what not guides. Stop picking apart something that doesn't need to be.
> 
> What I think is funny is I even gave my fan rpm breakdowns and what not in my original post about my 3rd iteration.
> 
> Anyway, have a great day and I will enjoy my rig just fine as I always have.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Edit: I can tell you haven't ever done a build in an Evolve ITX case.


To my way of thinking you are running it the way you are because you have too much crammed into a small a space with way too little intake airflow compared to exhaust demands .. so your exhaust flow is severely limited by intake restriction.

You really need t take off your rose tinted glasses and place your feet firlmly back on planet Earth. The cfm numbers you are using only exist in some altered universe .. not in our applications.

A fan with a 110cfm rating will be lucky to flow 40cfm in application .. and that application is not in a small case with 4x fans all competing for an extremely limited amount of airflow. Your single rear intake and small vent that can flow at best maybe 100cfm .. 1/4th of what your 240 radiator fans. This means each of the 4x fans on radiators only have a fraction of the airflow they need. about 25cfm at best .. probably less if you actually measured the fpi of air coming out of them..

I do see how you go your numbers, but the way you are trying to use them is flawed.

My building in an Evolv ITXhas nothing to do with it. Neither would my not using a loop in any of my current systems. What I'm trying to explain to you is not case of cooler being used. I'm only talking about airflow potential / limitations.









The proof is in the fact if you open the side cover your temperatures do down. If you had enough airflow into your case this would not happen.


----------



## rx7racer

delete


----------



## doyll

My rose glasses are not obstructing my perceptions of reality.









Your top radiator has 2x fans on it, therefor it is not passive.

The reality appears to be you have no functional option but to have negative pressure. You have no other intake options. What your negative pressure is accomplishing is lowering the airflow through your radiators .. something that in my rose tinted view is negative performance.

I really do understand that you are getting what you think is the best out of what you have .. and while that may be very true it does not change physics and that your intake flow limitation is severely limiting the cooling ability of your radiators.

Honestly, 'possessive' and 'negative' flow is seriously misunderstood. Do you have any idea what the actual pressure differential involved is? Even with your extremely limited intake area I doubt it's enough to even be felt. Normally it's something like the difference between sea level and 3 meters above sea level. In your severely limited intake case it might be more like 6 meters. Any way we look at it, (rose tinted or whatever) it's almost nothing.

Like I said before, I really don't care, except for the false rationalization. I suppose iIf I had enough H2O components to experiment I could get an Evolv ITX and have a play, but it's almost an effort in futility .. simply an extreme case (no pun) of too much in too little.


----------



## rfarmer

I'm just surprised his initial temperatures were so bad, when I had my Evol-iTX I had a BlackIce 240GTS in the front as intake, a Swiftech H220-X in the roof as exhaust and a rear 120mm fan as exhaust. I was running an OCed 4690k and an OCed GTX 970 and my max temp was 62C. Low to mid 50C was more common while gaming.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rfarmer*
> 
> I'm just surprised his initial temperatures were so bad, when I had my Evol-iTX I had a BlackIce 240GTS in the front as intake, a Swiftech H220-X in the roof as exhaust and a rear 120mm fan as exhaust. I was running an OCed 4690k and an OCed GTX 970 and my max temp was 62C. Low to mid 50C was more common while gaming.


tim lottery and fan selection placements orientations and speeds...i run all my fans at 100 percent which possibly hurts me in some situations but i have never had an issue with cooling except when truely pushing the limits...most people see a fan and go oh cool 50cfm...then run it half speed and restricted through mesh and radiator (which cfm means not a whole lot) and then blame the fan...


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> tim lottery and fan selection placements orientations and speeds...i run all my fans at 100 percent which possibly hurts me in some situations but i have never had an issue with cooling except when truely pushing the limits...most people see a fan and go oh cool 50cfm...then run it half speed and restricted through mesh and radiator (which cfm means not a whole lot) and then blame the fan...


Or have / use half as many vents for exhaust or intake as they use for intake and wonder why the case is running hot. "I have fans in every vent the case has, 7x intake and 2x exhaust, but the case is a hot as it was when I had only 3x intake fans." Golly Jee Willickers .. no idea where they learned common sense, but 2x 140mm round holes can not flow more than 2x 140mm round holes flow. So having 7x 140mm round holes pushing air at 2x 140mm round holes means only 2x 140mm round holes of air will flow in through those 7x 140mm round holes. Yeah, I know .. cases are not sealed so air leaks out other places too, but it few cases have enough small leaking places all combined to let out as much air as even a 120mm round hole does.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Or have / use half as vents for exhaust or intake as they use for intake and wonder why the case is running hot. "I have fans in every vent the case has, 7x intake and 2x exhaust, but the case is as now now as it was when I had only 3x intake fans." Golly Jee Willickers .. no idea where they learned common sense, but 2x 140mm round holes can not flow more than 2x 140mm round holes flow. So having 7x 140mm round holes pushing air at 2x 140mm round holes means only 2x 140mm round holes of air will flow in through those 7x 140mm round holes. Yeah, I know .. cases are not sealed so air leaks out other places too, but it few cases have enough small leaking places all combined to let out as much air as even a 120mm round hole does.


im hoping my airflow does ok once im done ive got a 480 in the bottom intake, 420 in the top as exhaust two 140s in the front as intake and a 140 on the rear as exhaust...(havent decided on the h220x as exhaust or intake yet as its set in the side beside the mobo) ill also have a 120 pointed at socket and a 120 hitting the vrms both towards the board...all fans on rads are swiftech helix, case fans are all three phanteks 140s and the supplementals are cougar 1200 rpm...all will be running 100 percent...i think it will do pretty good i had the pro case setup nearly the same way and temps were good but i didnt have the side rad...ill try it all out and see


----------



## TeslaHUN

Test ur air pressure in case with smoke, like in this video :





Check littre crack on side panel, pci slots . Smoke goes in = negative pressure in house , smoke pushed away = positive pressure in house.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> im hoping my airflow does ok once im done ive got a 480 in the bottom intake, 420 in the top as exhaust two 140s in the front as intake and a 140 on the rear as exhaust...(havent decided on the h220x as exhaust or intake yet as its set in the side beside the mobo) ill also have a 120 pointed at socket and a 120 hitting the vrms both towards the board...all fans on rads are swiftech helix, case fans are all three phanteks 140s and the supplementals are cougar 1200 rpm...all will be running 100 percent...i think it will do pretty good i had the pro case setup nearly the same way and temps were good but i didnt have the side rad...ill try it all out and see


What case? Maybe I'm thinking wrong, but Enthoo Pro isn't that big.


----------



## rx7racer

@doyll , you're completely correct.

I am completely wrong. I apologize for my rose tinted glasses, everything you said is 100% accurate.

I know nothing and for my ignorance I will never put advice on this board again and will never post about my builds again.

Sorry for anyone that read my posts.


----------



## dmfree88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rx7racer*
> 
> @doyll , you're completely correct.
> 
> I am completely wrong. I apologize for my rose tinted glasses, everything you said is 100% accurate.
> 
> I know nothing and for my ignorance I will never put advice on this board again and will never post about my builds again.
> 
> Sorry for anyone that read my posts.


Dont feel too bad I think most of us have been put in place by Doyll at least once. I think he has even given me the airflow lecture more then once as I had forgotten over-time and got a new build which I failed in airflow again. I could tell he was irritated with my repeated stupidity lol.

We all get owned by Doyll. No reason to disappear on us. We like helping and seeing new builds. Doyll is just a badass


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rx7racer*
> 
> @doyll , you're completely correct.
> 
> I am completely wrong. I apologize for my rose tinted glasses, everything you said is 100% accurate.
> 
> I know nothing and for my ignorance I will never put advice on this board again and will never post about my builds again.
> 
> Sorry for anyone that read my posts.


Try not to get offended. @doyll was trying to help you. If you re-read, I am sure that you will see that.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> What case? Maybe I'm thinking wrong, but Enthoo Pro isn't that big.


primo..need to update rigs...


----------



## owcraftsman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PureBlackFire*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Looks like I'm going to take one for the team. Just ordered the Phanteks GPU block, and I can not find a single comment from an actual user anywhere. Good thing I trust these guys......
> 
> 
> 
> nice. looking forward to your account on this thing.
Click to expand...

+1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PureBlackFire*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> another nice build. love this channel.


Awesome build and video I would have liked to see how he addressed the other side view


----------



## Diarrhea

Hey guys.

I've been binge reading this entire thread and I should have marked where some of the comments that were said would apply to what I am about to ask. Anyway, my questions involve the Evolv (TG) case which I plan to get soon.

1. If I put a front radiator with a push/pull configuration, would a tube reservoir sill fit between the pull fans and the graphics card?

2. Just out of curiosity, will I be able to swap radiator and fan placement in the front of the case meaning, having like a EK SE 360 where the front fans would be and then having the fans in just a pull configuration?

3. I've been seeing a lot of heat exhausting issues where some of the solutions are covering up the mount holes on the radiator bracket and not clipping the top panel all the way down....so would having front and top as intake where the rear is the exhaust be a wise choice? For example, having the top and front intake at a lower speed whereas the rear would be at higher speed?

Thanks,
D


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Diarrhea*
> 
> Hey guys.
> 
> I've been binge reading this entire thread and I should have marked where some of the comments that were said would apply to what I am about to ask. Anyway, my questions involve the Evolv (TG) case which I plan to get soon.
> 
> 1. If I put a front radiator with a push/pull configuration, would a tube reservoir sill fit between the pull fans and the graphics card?
> 
> 2. Just out of curiosity, will I be able to swap radiator and fan placement in the front of the case meaning, having like a EK SE 360 where the front fans would be and then having the fans in just a pull configuration?
> 
> 3. I've been seeing a lot of heat exhausting issues where some of the solutions are covering up the mount holes on the radiator bracket and not clipping the top panel all the way down....so would having front and top as intake where the rear is the exhaust be a wise choice? For example, having the top and front intake at a lower speed whereas the rear would be at higher speed?
> 
> Thanks,
> D


Just my take...

1. Depends on the thickness of the radiator and the length of the GPU (and the res mount spec). A 60mm rad in p/p will likely not work with a rad/fan mount. 30mm will work, 45mm rad in p/p might work.
2. Considering an SE is 26mm it should work (I don't know about width). There is no way this would result in a performance gain though. If anything it would likely run worse than a traditional setup.
3. Some people have done this and reported good results. A strong airflow fan for the rear, like a Noctua, would be advisable. Again though, there isn't much of a "gain" with this method vs a properly set up front and back intake and top exhaust. Resting the top panel on the clips (which is barely visibly noticeable) and sealing the radiator bracket pretty much solves everything.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Diarrhea*
> 
> Hey guys.
> 
> I've been binge reading this entire thread and I should have marked where some of the comments that were said would apply to what I am about to ask. Anyway, my questions involve the Evolv (TG) case which I plan to get soon.
> 
> 1. If I put a front radiator with a push/pull configuration, would a tube reservoir sill fit between the pull fans and the graphics card?
> 
> 2. Just out of curiosity, will I be able to swap radiator and fan placement in the front of the case meaning, having like a EK SE 360 where the front fans would be and then having the fans in just a pull configuration?
> 
> 3. I've been seeing a lot of heat exhausting issues where some of the solutions are covering up the mount holes on the radiator bracket and not clipping the top panel all the way down....so would having front and top as intake where the rear is the exhaust be a wise choice? For example, having the top and front intake at a lower speed whereas the rear would be at higher speed?
> 
> Thanks,
> D


Just to add to what @paskowitz already said....

1. The only rads that would fit in the front and allow room for a res when in push/pull, wouldn't benefit from push/pull in the first place. Slim rads don't benefit from push/pull, so it becomes a futile exercise unless you are using a short graphics card.

2. I have shown a couple of detailed explanations on the fact that the EK 360SE, being quite literally one of the worst performing 360s ever released, should never be in an Evolv ATX (it really shouldn't be used anywhere given the performance). You can get the same performance and look using a decent quality 240mm and you will have room for a good quality 360mm up top without fighting with it.

3. Some people have had good experiences running the top as intake. My build has better performance with the top as exhaust with the rad isolated - but it is also getting cool air from the intake fans since I removed the front rad.


----------



## Diarrhea

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> Just my take...
> 
> 1. Depends on the thickness of the radiator and the length of the GPU (and the res mount spec). A 60mm rad in p/p will likely not work with a rad/fan mount. 30mm will work, 45mm rad in p/p might work.
> 2. Considering an SE is 26mm it should work (I don't know about width). There is no way this would result in a performance gain though. If anything it would likely run worse than a traditional setup.
> 3. Some people have done this and reported good results. A strong airflow fan for the rear, like a Noctua, would be advisable. Again though, there isn't much of a "gain" with this method vs a properly set up front and back intake and top exhaust. Resting the top panel on the clips (which is barely visibly noticeable) and sealing the radiator bracket pretty much solves everything.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Just to add to what @paskowitz already said....
> 
> 1. The only rads that would fit in the front and allow room for a res when in push/pull, wouldn't benefit from push/pull in the first place. Slim rads don't benefit from push/pull, so it becomes a futile exercise unless you are using a short graphics card.
> 
> 2. I have shown a couple of detailed explanations on the fact that the EK 360SE, being quite literally one of the worst performing 360s ever released, should never be in an Evolv ATX (it really shouldn't be used anywhere given the performance). You can get the same performance and look using a decent quality 240mm and you will have room for a good quality 360mm up top without fighting with it.
> 
> 3. Some people have had good experiences running the top as intake. My build has better performance with the top as exhaust with the rad isolated - but it is also getting cool air from the intake fans since I removed the front rad.


Cool, thanks for the response. I already have a PE 360 and a PE 240 and I know those do pretty well. Good thing I asked before ordering that SE 360...saved me some money instead of wasting it on something that wasn't even going to perform well. I guess I will just wait until I get the case to experiment which fan orientation that would best work for me since #3 seems like a 50/50.

-D


----------



## Risley

Hi guys, just jumping into the Phanteks discussion, going to build a computer soon. I'm interested in the Pro M Acrylic and the soon to be released (hopefully) Pro M Tempered Glass. Does anyone have any idea when the tempered glass version may be released? Its only been mentioned at Computex this year, so pretty recent. Just not sure how long it takes companies like this to go from showing off a model to production and sale. If its going to be many months from now, I'd just go with the acrylic version since I wouldnt expect an update of the case/motherboard layout, just really a switch from the windowing being acrylic to tempered glass.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Risley*
> 
> Hi guys, just jumping into the Phanteks discussion, going to build a computer soon. I'm interested in the Pro M Acrylic and the soon to be released (hopefully) Pro M Tempered Glass. Does anyone have any idea when the tempered glass version may be released? Its only been mentioned at Computex this year, so pretty recent. Just not sure how long it takes companies like this to go from showing off a model to production and sale. If its going to be many months from now, I'd just go with the acrylic version since I wouldnt expect an update of the case/motherboard layout, just really a switch from the windowing being acrylic to tempered glass.


No idea when or if it will actually be released. But, the case itself will be identical aside from the material of the side panel.


----------



## Risley

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> No idea when or if it will actually be released. But, the case itself will be identical aside from the material of the side panel.


Hmm, I figured if they bothered showing it off, theyd already be far enough along with manufacturing. Glad to know the case layout would be the same. In terms of the Evolv versus Pro M, is the Evolv just a little bit larger inside? I'd go ahead and get Evolv TG, but I like the option of the optical drive bay, and in my opinion, dont care for the look of the Evolv's front.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Risley*
> 
> Hmm, I figured if they bothered showing it off, theyd already be far enough along with manufacturing. Glad to know the case layout would be the same. In terms of the Evolv versus Pro M, is the Evolv just a little bit larger inside? I'd go ahead and get Evolv TG, but I like the option of the optical drive bay, and in my opinion, dont care for the look of the Evolv's front.


The only difference is the panels and accessories, they are exactly the same chassis.


----------



## smartie279

I'm brand new to this website, i have a problem with my case and i think you guys in this thread might be able to help more than others might

I recently bought a new Case and CPU fan because i was having overheating issues, i went with the Phantek Enthoo Pro, because i've only heard good things about it, everything moved right in when i was moving over my hardware:Everything except for the Power Supply.
I can't seem to get the Power Supply to fit right , i can't get the screws to line up with holes on the case, as im typing this, the psu is in this weird angle where i could only get one screw to line up and in. I was wondering if anyone had this case, and if they did something that just passed me by when installing the CPU, because it looks like the little rubber stands that the psu goes on is blocking it from going all the way to the edge of the case. Also im 99% sure im not just putting it in upside down.

The PSU is a Corsair 600w, so im pretty sure its compatible since it's a popular brand, so it has to be something really dumb that im missing


----------



## WHIMington

This airflow topic just getting no where, people just wanted to claim things and ignore physics it seems.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WHIMington*
> 
> This airflow topic just getting no where, people just wanted to claim things and ignore physics it seems.


Any particular airflow topic? There must be several hundred different ones in this thread.


----------



## pez

So what are the thoughts on the new Alphacool Eisbar 'AIOs'? I don't know the quality of the included fans, but the pricing is pretty competitve. A couple reviews show the fans to be a bit quieter than the included Vardars or the e-Loops of the EKWB and Swiftech units; though they are sleeve bearings.


----------



## Awesomeguy10578

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pez*
> 
> So what are the thoughts on the new Alphacool Eisbar 'AIOs'? I don't know the quality of the included fans, but the pricing is pretty competitve. A couple reviews show the fans to be a bit quieter than the included Vardars or the e-Loops of the EKWB and Swiftech units; though they are sleeve bearings.


The fans are only quieter because they're lower RPM though...


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> primo..need to update rigs...


Sounds like a good plan. I suggest adding more space between bottom of case and what it sets on for better airflow to bottom fans. I did was turn case over to measure it and was very surprised at how little airflow it had. Total area of intake through Primo base to bottom fans is 91.35sq cm.. a single 120mm fan has 113sq cm area.. subtract 12sq cm for motor hub and 120mm fan area is 101sq cm.. and that's not taking into account lost airflow though the grills.
*Left side has no airflow.. The grills on filters are totally cosmetic!! There's a solid surface behind them visible when you take them out to clean!!
*Right side has 36x 3x15mm slots (16.2sq cm)
*Back is 147x25mm (36.75sq cm)
*Front has 5x 10x30mm (15sq cm)
*Base is 2mm off floor with 126.5cm - 19.5cm for feet = 117cm (23.4sq cm)

*The bottom of Primo has limited airflow area*.
Total airflow area of intake through Primo base to bottom fans is 91.35sq cm.. a single 120mm fan has 101sq cm airflow area.. and that's not taking into account the lost of airflow area caused by the grill mesh of another 60-70% (grill mesh is 30-40% open area).

Left side has no airflow.. The grills on filters are totally cosmetic!! There's a solid surface behind them visible when you take them out to clean!!

. 0.0sq cm = Left side vents are fake
16.2sq cm = Right side has 36x 3x15mm slots
36.75sq cm = Back is 147x25mm
15sq cm = Front has 5x 10x30mm
23.4sq cm = Base is 2mm off floor with 126.5cm - 19.5cm for feet = 117cm + back area
*91.35sq cm* = *Total area*


This does not take into account the area *loss to grill mesh or turbulence (approx. 30-40%* airflow restriction)..

*33mm space* between floor and bottom of case *adds >420sq cm*. That is *with 30mm castor* area deducted.
*40mm space* between floor and bottom of case *adds >514.4sq cm* of airflow area. This is with 6x 40mm block area deducted.

By comparison, a *120mm fan* has about *100sq cm* of airflow area and a *140mm fan* has about *140sq cm* of airflow area. It varies some because of center hub size differences.

Using 30mm castors on threaded studs screwed into 7 ply voidless 10mm Baltic birch base (9mm actual thickness), holes drilled and tapped we have a total of 40-42mm increase in sysem height from floor, Enthoo Primo height goes from stock 650mm to 692mm tall.


 . 

Edit: This post is linked in thread opening post


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smartie279*
> 
> I'm brand new to this website, i have a problem with my case and i think you guys in this thread might be able to help more than others might
> 
> I recently bought a new Case and CPU fan because i was having overheating issues, i went with the Phantek Enthoo Pro, because i've only heard good things about it, everything moved right in when i was moving over my hardware:Everything except for the Power Supply.
> I can't seem to get the Power Supply to fit right , i can't get the screws to line up with holes on the case, as im typing this, the psu is in this weird angle where i could only get one screw to line up and in. I was wondering if anyone had this case, and if they did something that just passed me by when installing the CPU, because it looks like the little rubber stands that the psu goes on is blocking it from going all the way to the edge of the case. Also im 99% sure im not just putting it in upside down.
> 
> The PSU is a Corsair 600w, so im pretty sure its compatible since it's a popular brand, so it has to be something really dumb that im missing


Have you replaced the PH-F200SP with 2x PH-F140SP yet? Even replacing the 200mm with the one PH-F140SP that comes with the case usually improves cooling, but two make a world of difference. Pro has so much vent area in back and top they often don't even need exhaust fans, just 2 good intakes in front.. But without knowing more about what your components are and how things are setup it's impossible to know what all our problems may be.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WHIMington*
> 
> This airflow topic just getting no where, people just wanted to claim things and ignore physics it seems.


No need beat a dead horse.








I feel bad enough as it is.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Sounds like a good plan. I suggest adding more space between bottom of case and what it sets on for better airflow to bottom fans. I did was turn case over to measure it and was very surprised at how little airflow it had. Total area of intake through Primo base to bottom fans is 91.35sq cm.. a single 120mm fan has 113sq cm area.. subtract 12sq cm for motor hub and 120mm fan area is 101sq cm.. and that's not taking into account lost airflow though the grills.
> *Left side has no airflow.. The grills on filters are totally cosmetic!! There's a solid surface behind them visible when you take them out to clean!!
> *Right side has 36x 3x15mm slots (16.2sq cm)
> *Back is 147x25mm (36.75sq cm)
> *Front has 5x 10x30mm (15sq cm)
> *Base is 2mm off floor with 126.5cm - 19.5cm for feet = 117cm (23.4sq cm)
> 
> The bottom of Primo has limited airflow area.
> Total airflow area of intake through Primo base to bottom fans is 91.35sq cm.. a single 120mm fan has 101sq cm airflow area.. and that's not taking into account the lost of airflow area caused by the grill mesh of another 60-70% (grill mesh is 30-40% open area).
> 
> Left side has no airflow.. The grills on filters are totally cosmetic!! There's a solid surface behind them visible when you take them out to clean!!
> 
> . 0.0sq cm = Left side vents are fake
> 16.2sq cm = Right side has 36x 3x15mm slots
> 36.75sq cm = Back is 147x25mm
> 15sq cm = Front has 5x 10x30mm
> 23.4sq cm = Base is 2mm off floor with 126.5cm - 19.5cm for feet = 117cm + back area
> *91.35sq cm* = Total area
> 
> 
> This does not take into account the area loss to grill mesh or turbulence (approx. 30-40% airflow restriction)..
> 
> *35mm space* between floor and bottom of case adds 400sq cm. That is *with 6x30mm castor* area deducted (42.4sq cm).. 6x square blocks is 73.5sq cm
> *40mm space* between floor and bottom of case adds 409.6sq cm of airflow area. This is *with 6x 40mm block* area deducted. 6x square blocks is 96sq cm
> 
> By comparison, a *120mm fan* has about *100sq cm* of airflow area and a *140mm fan* has about *140sq cm* of airflow area. It varies some because of center hub size differences.
> 
> Using 30mm castors on threaded studs screwed into 7 ply voidless 10mm Baltic birch base (9mm actual thickness), holes drilled and tapped we have a total of 40-42mm increase in sysem height from floor, Enthoo Primo height goes from stock 650mm to 692mm tall.
> 
> 
> .
> 
> Edit: This post is linked in thread opening post


ill be doing something similar only not on wheels as it sits on my desktop...probably simple box sleds...i just need to remember its nearly 75lbs without water yet lol


----------



## pez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Awesomeguy10578*
> 
> The fans are only quieter because they're lower RPM though...


Well sure. I'm not disputing that. I'm not confident they're great fans for the long haul, either. I'm just curious if anything is going to go wrong with it. As far as I know, Alphacool has good stuff. I'm still undecided if I want to go with the Phanteks cooler for the second ITX Evolv build, or if I want to do something like a Predator, H220 or this (etc). At the prices I see on it, new fans on the unit wouldn't be a deal breaker as it brings them up to the price point of the Swiftech and EKWB units.


----------



## DONGOTTI

Work in progress. This is what happens when you spend hundreds in fittings and realize you still need more. I'm at the point where I'm just making it work with what I have. Still, could use some different fittings to make this more pleasing to the eye. The run to the inlet on the mono block is like $100 in fittings lol


----------



## pez

Are you using glass tubing? If not, why not go for hard tubing with bends? I think it looks great the way you have it, just curious







.


----------



## DONGOTTI

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pez*
> 
> Are you using glass tubing? If not, why not go for hard tubing with bends? I think it looks great the way you have it, just curious
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


It's the crystal link tubing 16mm. Since this is my first time watercooling I figured I'd play it a bit safe and just do 90's instead of trying to bend everything. One less thing to get wrong lol


----------



## pez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DONGOTTI*
> 
> It's the crystal link tubing 16mm. Since this is my first time watercooling I figured I'd play it a bit safe and just do 90's instead of trying to bend everything. One less thing to get wrong lol


I totally get that haha. I've been looking at that as well since I'm in the same boat as you. However, it's the reason I'm still looking at the prefab'd kits







.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pez*
> 
> So what are the thoughts on the new Alphacool Eisbar 'AIOs'? I don't know the quality of the included fans, but the pricing is pretty competitve. A couple reviews show the fans to be a bit quieter than the included Vardars or the e-Loops of the EKWB and Swiftech units; though they are sleeve bearings.


Really not very good when compared to the Swiftech or EK units. The pump is far weaker, so expansion is very limited. The block is nowhere near the EK, or even the Swiftech. And while the fans may quieter, those Alphacool pumps re grindy and whiny.


----------



## dlewbell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smartie279*
> 
> I'm brand new to this website, i have a problem with my case and i think you guys in this thread might be able to help more than others might
> 
> I recently bought a new Case and CPU fan because i was having overheating issues, i went with the Phantek Enthoo Pro, because i've only heard good things about it, everything moved right in when i was moving over my hardware:Everything except for the Power Supply.
> I can't seem to get the Power Supply to fit right , i can't get the screws to line up with holes on the case, as im typing this, the psu is in this weird angle where i could only get one screw to line up and in. I was wondering if anyone had this case, and if they did something that just passed me by when installing the CPU, because it looks like the little rubber stands that the psu goes on is blocking it from going all the way to the edge of the case. Also im 99% sure im not just putting it in upside down.
> 
> The PSU is a Corsair 600w, so im pretty sure its compatible since it's a popular brand, so it has to be something really dumb that im missing


It should fit without issue. I've got a Luxe with the CX600M (not great, I know, but it works & I have it), & my cousin has a Pro with the EVGA G2 750W. Both PSUs fit fine. Just make sure you're not catching on the tab that the PSU is supposed to slide under on the motherboard tray. I found that with the EVGA G2 PSU, we had to get one screw started & tighten it a bit to pull the PSU into place & just start adding other screws as the holes started lining up. Just work with it a little & it will fit.


----------



## pez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Really not very good when compared to the Swiftech or EK units. The pump is far weaker, so expansion is very limited. The block is nowhere near the EK, or even the Swiftech. And while the fans may quieter, those Alphacool pumps re grindy and whiny.


As always, I appreciate your input







. Thanks for chiming in







.


----------



## Awesomeguy10578

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pez*
> 
> Well sure. I'm not disputing that. I'm not confident they're great fans for the long haul, either. I'm just curious if anything is going to go wrong with it. As far as I know, Alphacool has good stuff. I'm still undecided if I want to go with the Phanteks cooler for the second ITX Evolv build, or if I want to do something like a Predator, H220 or this (etc). At the prices I see on it, new fans on the unit wouldn't be a deal breaker as it brings them up to the price point of the Swiftech and EKWB units.


Yeah just givinga heads up. I don't really know though but hardwarecanucks review shows the quick disconnects leak a little everytime you disconnect it which I think the EK one doesn't so I guess EK has better fittings and I think the EK cools better because it has a thicker rad and stuff


----------



## pez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Awesomeguy10578*
> 
> Yeah just givinga heads up. I don't really know though but hardwarecanucks review shows the quick disconnects leak a little everytime you disconnect it which I think the EK one doesn't so I guess EK has better fittings and I think the EK cools better because it has a thicker rad and stuff


Yeah, I most definitely get that impression as well. I'm just being lazy (and a bit reluctant) before dropping $150+ on a new cooler







.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Awesomeguy10578*
> 
> Yeah just givinga heads up. I don't really know though but hardwarecanucks review shows the quick disconnects leak a little everytime you disconnect it which I think the EK one doesn't so I guess EK has better fittings and I think the EK cools better because it has a thicker rad and stuff


The rad is only slightly thicker. It's really the significantly better block and pump that are the difference.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pez*
> 
> As far as I know, Alphacool has good stuff.


When you get right down to it......Alphacool were the top dog in radiators for a bit. People were willing to put up with the prep work required to get them clean for the performance and extra ports. With more rads coming to market, they are now just mediocre rads with a bad finish that take way too much work to get all of the flux and dirt out of. Their CPU blocks are awful (really, absolutely awful - terrible performance and very restrictive), their fittings seem budget (never had one leak, though) as do their tops, and their in house pumps are really weak. But.....their universal GPU block with changeable VRM and RAM cooling is a great concept for those looking to save a few dollars.


----------



## jassilamba

Just wanted to stop by and say hi, and share my new build with you guys. Nothing special, just something basic.


----------



## Awesomeguy10578

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pez*
> 
> Yeah, I most definitely get that impression as well. I'm just being lazy (and a bit reluctant) before dropping $150+ on a new cooler
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


Yeah I get that hahah


----------



## Awesomeguy10578

Sorry for double consecutive posts but I did finally have a Phanteks case hahah and I just want to share it. Specs are in my sig. One thing about this case I hate is the terrible airflow from both the top and front lol opening the front panel and top panel can reduce my CPU and GPU temps by 4-5C. Oh and I already installed a seconds Phanteks PH-F140SP fan on top and are now on intakes.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## jassilamba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Really not very good when compared to the Swiftech or EK units. The pump is far weaker, so expansion is very limited. The block is nowhere near the EK, or even the Swiftech. And while the fans may quieter, those Alphacool pumps re grindy and whiny.


Just an FYI about the above mentioned enthusiast AIOs -
I'm not sure about the EK unit, but keep in mind that the DDC pump used in the swiftech cannot be used with any other after market pump tops, and I think the EK version of the DDC can be used with other tops.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jassilamba*
> 
> Just wanted to stop by and say hi, and share my new build with you guys. Nothing special, just something basic.


Nice build.









Glad to see you are still with us.


----------



## jassilamba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Nice build.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Glad to see you are still with us.


Haha, I'm still here and glad to see that you are keeping this herd in check and doing a heck of a job at it. Now I need to go back and finish my EVOLV ITX build moz that has been on my work bench for a while now.


----------



## owcraftsman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Awesomeguy10578*
> 
> Yeah just givinga heads up. I don't really know though but hardwarecanucks review shows the quick disconnects leak a little everytime you disconnect it which I think the EK one doesn't so I guess EK has better fittings and I think the EK cools better because it has a thicker rad and stuff
> 
> 
> 
> The rad is only slightly thicker. It's really the significantly better block and pump that are the difference.
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *pez*
> 
> As far as I know, Alphacool has good stuff.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> When you get right down to it......Alphacool were the top dog in radiators for a bit. People were willing to put up with the prep work required to get them clean for the performance and extra ports. With more rads coming to market, they are now just mediocre rads with a bad finish that take way too much work to get all of the flux and dirt out of. Their CPU blocks are awful (really, absolutely awful - terrible performance and very restrictive), their fittings seem budget (never had one leak, though) as do their tops, and their in house pumps are really weak. But.....their universal GPU block with changeable VRM and RAM cooling is a great concept for those looking to save a few dollars.
Click to expand...

I respectfully disagree @ciarlatano my last few Alphacool rads had way better finish better hardware and zero issues that required cleaning, I know I tried to get something out of them and I couldn't they were perfectly clean. Anyone who buys any rad from any mfg should do at least the bare minimum one clean out of the rad so extra work is not an issue. Add to that the convenience of 7 ports, which IMHO, far out weighs the minuscule difference in performance. Furthermore I believe their new line of X-Flow rads deserve a close look unlike some others they have a complete line up 120/240/360 in varying thicknesses 30 to 60mm and varying fin counts from 10 to 16 FPI. These are reasons why they are still the #1 seller of PC radiators.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jassilamba*
> 
> Just wanted to stop by and say hi, and share my new build with you guys. Nothing special, just something basic.


Nice looking build, as always!









One of the things that keeps it nice looking is the fact that it is not stuffed full of rads. Only what is needed is there, leaving room to keep the rest of the build looking good.


----------



## owcraftsman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *jassilamba*
> 
> Just wanted to stop by and say hi, and share my new build with you guys. Nothing special, just something basic.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Nice build.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Glad to see you are still with us.
Click to expand...

+1 work on the GPU cables a bit and perfect


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Nice looking build, as always!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One of the things that keeps it nice looking is the fact that it is not stuffed full of rads. Only what is needed is there, leaving room to keep the rest of the build looking good.


I agree. Each part stands out more. The Evolv ATX can easily become a crowded affair.

Only thing I would change is possibly routing the GPU cable between the GPUs and through the back. The vertical cable kinda break up the horizontal tube runs.


----------



## jassilamba

Agreed on the GPU cables and I will clean those up. I'm using the phanteks extensions along with the long cables on the AX1200i tucked in the back for now with room to put in the 2 HDDs.

Gonna go pick my set of unbreakable cable combs today and should be all done soon - http://munkymods.com/Munky-Mods-Pro-Flex-Cable-Combs--DIY-Kit_p_135.html


----------



## Kyouki

Starting to finally see some really clean builds in the Evolv ATX, very exciting and cant wait to see more! When I started my build I looked and looked to get some ideas and there just was not many builds that I felt took this case the next level and kept it clean.

Good Job.


----------



## jassilamba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kyouki*
> 
> Starting to finally see some really clean builds in the Evolv ATX, very exciting and cant wait to see more! When I started my build I looked and looked to get some ideas and there just was not many builds that I felt took this case the next level and kept it clean.
> 
> Good Job.


Thanks, took me a while to get this build done.

Actually the original build looked like this -



And i wasn't happy with it. The case looked too empty. So pulled of a custom loop over the weekend.

I'm actually working on an Evolv itx mod which is the complete opposite of clean. Will start a log on that once it's 80% done.


----------



## nycgtr

Quote:


> It's the crystal link tubing 16mm. Since this is my first time watercooling I figured I'd play it a bit safe and just do 90's instead of trying to bend everything. One less thing to get wrong lol


You know a bent piece of tube only can leak at 2 places as long as it's not cracked. A chain series of fittings can leak at 2 places per fitting. More fittings higher chance of leaks.


----------



## DONGOTTI

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nycgtr*
> 
> You know a bent piece of tube only can leak at 2 places as long as it's not cracked. A chain series of fittings can leak at 2 places per fitting. More fittings higher chance of leaks.


That's some good common sense thank you. With all this being my first time, I didn't even think of that lol

Makes perfect damn sense lol


----------



## jassilamba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DONGOTTI*
> 
> That's some good common sense thank you. With all this being my first time, I didn't even think of that lol
> 
> Makes perfect damn sense lol


Bending tubing is easier plus you save the cost on fittings. Let's be honest the money saved on adapters and fittings could pay for a CPU upgrade or something more important.


----------



## Kyouki

If you build it with care and make sure that all your fittings are snug should not have to worry about leaks but it is true to state that you would have more failure points in the loop, but eh I also took your route and went with fittings for all my bends more for the aesthetics I'm not to worried about leaks as I took a lot of care when building the loop. Also have a lot of extra tube incase I change my mind and decided to redo it and make bends lol.


----------



## Risley

Why are fitting so expensive? Seems like they should be made on the cheap.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Risley*
> 
> Why are fitting so expensive? Seems like they should be made on the cheap.


Supply and demand. We are a captive audience. We don't settle for barbs and zip ties because we are all about appearance. Manufacturers know this.


----------



## redshoulder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jassilamba*
> 
> Just wanted to stop by and say hi, and share my new build with you guys. Nothing special, just something basic.


What kind of temps do you get with this setup?


----------



## doyll

For those who do not know jassilamba, he definitely has more experience than most builders / reviewers/ testers / modders do. He fifinitely knows what he's doing and how to explain it all so we can understand and use his advice.









Now jass, don't let that swell you head too big. You may be good, but there is always somebody better.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Risley*
> 
> Why are fitting so expensive? Seems like they should be made on the cheap.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Supply and demand. We are a captive audience. We don't settle for barbs and zip ties because we are all about appearance. Manufacturers know this.


I'll only add we see the same kind of crazy prices on custom vehicle fittings. These companies have a captive market with no competition to pull prices down to realistic levels.


----------



## klyzon

Beware of the swiftech h220x2 especially. I had 2 and both had very bad leakage due to crack cpu blocks.

I now have a 3 month old water damaged 980ti, a1 week old water damaged 1080 and a old h100I left


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *klyzon*
> 
> Beware of the swiftech h220x2 especially. I had 2 and both had very bad leakage due to crack cpu blocks.
> 
> I now have a 3 month old water damaged 980ti, a1 week old water damaged 1080 and a old h100I left


More details please.
While the H220 X2 is not foo-proof it has a very good record of working very well with few complaints for consumers.


----------



## klyzon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> More details please.
> While the H220 X2 is not foo-proof it has a very good record of working very well with few complaints for consumers.


i first got a h220 x2. Used it for about a week and for some reason, my gpu kept crashing and my com kept restarting. I thought it was because of my unstable overclock. A week later my com crashed again and i was too pissed so i open it up only to see the reservoir only having 3/4 of its coolant left, and saw coolant stains on my gpu backplate. Proceed to remove the h220 x2 and realize that the cpu block is leaking. Open up my 980ti and found it wet.

Swiftech told me nothing they can do about it. I proceed to RMA it with my local distributor. After 2 weeks, got a brand new 1080 and manage to get the h220 x2 replaced.

Installed everything and ran it for a day. My gpu started crashing again and this time i quickly open up my com to examine the interior. Turns out there are massive air bubbles/space in the h220 x2 tubing. Realize that the cpu block once again leaked. This time round it soaked my week old 1080.

So now i basically have no h220 x2, and a couple of paper weights worth about $2500.





Red coolant is from the first h220x2. The other 2 pictures are from the RMA'ed h220x2


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *klyzon*
> 
> Beware of the swiftech h220x2 especially. I had 2 and both had very bad leakage due to crack cpu blocks.
> 
> I now have a 3 month old water damaged 980ti, a1 week old water damaged 1080 and a old h100I left


How did you crack *two* Apogee blocks? And you may be (pretty sure you are) the only person to post here that has cracked a CPU block, so obviously it is not a common issue. Also, *all* of the X2 series use the same block, so singling out the 220 makes no sense.


----------



## Duality92

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> How did you crack *two* Apogee blocks? And you may be (pretty sure you are) the only person to post here that has cracked a CPU block, so obviously it is not a common issue. Also, *all* of the X2 series use the same block, so singling out the 220 makes no sense.


My thoughts exactly, how does one manage to crack a CPU block? Let alone two?


----------



## klyzon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> How did you crack *two* Apogee blocks? And you may be (pretty sure you are) the only person to post here that has cracked a CPU block, so obviously it is not a common issue. Also, *all* of the X2 series use the same block, so singling out the 220 makes no sense.


don't think i cracked both, think it was cracked before installation. I checked both aio and the leak didn't happen till the pump started running. I also took extra care to secure the block finger tight. I can't say for others cause i've only had experience with the h220 x2. I ignored their forums full of complaints and thought that they are a very reputable brand.

Turns out their forums are true. Think what you want, i'm just giving people a heads up.


----------



## Duality92

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *klyzon*
> 
> don't think i cracked both, think it was cracked before installation. I checked both aio and the leak didn't happen till the pump started running. I also took extra care to secure the block finger tight. I can't say for others cause i've only had experience with the h220 x2. I ignored their forums full of complaints and thought that they are a very reputable brand.
> 
> Turns out their forums are true. Think what you want, i'm just giving people a heads up.


We're not "thinking what we want". This is not an opinion of ours, we're basing this on the half million users on Overclock.net.

@ciarlatano is a veteran reviewer and I'm a reviewer myself. We've both watercooled numerous PCs and know tons of people who do and never we've heard someone having issues like this with a swiftech block.

ciarlatano, correct me if I said anything wrong









edit : oh, and I just checked the forums, I don't even see another thread created there for a cracked block.

edit 2 : This is also off the topics of this thread, if you want to discuss it further, please create a thread in the appropriate section or email Swiftech about this issue, we're unable to help you out on this issue regardless of cause.


----------



## OneFunGenesis

Did you not test these externally with a jumped PSU? Nothing water goes in a powered case until fully tested....


----------



## paskowitz

This is why the leak test step exists.


----------



## OneFunGenesis

Then you can also see if it is manufacturer defect or user error....


----------



## hht92

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> This is why the leak test step exists.


This is why the air coolers exists.


----------



## doyll

@klyzon
While I haven't had any dealing with Swiftech in a couple of years I find it hard to believe they would tell you they can do nothing if there was even the slightest possibility the leaks and subsequent damage were their fault. I don't know what country you live in, but most countries have consumer protection laws that basically say if you install something properly and it damages things they are responsible for the damages. Many even have laws saying a product must function properly for as long as others like it do. Like a TV or a dish washer should last 4-5 years of normal use or they are responsible for it's failure.

Please move this to the Swiftech thread in Water Cooling forum or start a thread there. While we have quite a few Swiftech owners here, this is Phanteks case thread so best discuss this were it belongs .. in Water Cooling forum:
http://www.overclock.net/f/61/water-cooling

or Switech thread:
http://www.overclock.net/t/1367654/swiftech-h220-h320-h220x-h240x-h140x-and-cm-glacer-240l-360l-owners-club/0_20


----------



## OneFunGenesis

Or in the watercooling club thread...too lazy to find link


----------



## klyzon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> @klyzon
> While I haven't had any dealing with Swiftech in a couple of years I find it hard to believe they would tell you they can do nothing if there was even the slightest possibility the leaks and subsequent damage were their fault. I don't know what country you live in, but most countries have consumer protection laws that basically say if you install something properly and it damages things they are responsible for the damages. Many even have laws saying a product must function properly for as long as others like it do. Like a TV or a dish washer should last 4-5 years of normal use or they are responsible for it's failure.


they offered to replace the cooler both times but oh well. My local distributor for swiftech aio's are excellent though, they refunded me for the aio and offered to replace my gpus out of their own pockets. Highly appreciate their efforts. Swiftech offered to replace the aio after numerous emails, after deleting my comments on their facebook page.

Have moved on to other aio's, am considering ek predators, just not sure about the fit


----------



## Mjhieu

I move from inwin 805 to Phantek LuXe, so amazing temperature, so cool. Completely sastified.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *klyzon*
> 
> they offered to replace the cooler both times but oh well. My local distributor for swiftech aio's are excellent though, they refunded me for the aio and offered to replace my gpus out of their own pockets. Highly appreciate their efforts. Swiftech offered to replace the aio after numerous emails, after deleting my comments on their facebook page.
> 
> Have moved on to other aio's, am considering ek predators, just not sure about the fit


You mean the EK Predators that had _legitimate_, well documented block leaks and got recalled?









Kidding aside (the leak problem existed, but has been rectified), the Predators are nice units. I prefer the Swiftechs since they use a better pump and are better optimized for low noise performance (and they are much better looking IMO), but the Predators are still well above any other AiO out there.

However, we have seen many issues with the Predator in the Evolv ATX. Mind you, I have no idea why and what is causing the issue. But it seems that Predator 360mm have an impossible time exhausting when mounted on top. What makes it even more of an oddity is that other 360mm with high speed fans (even the same Vardars) don't seem to be nearly as affected. I haven't seen the issue first hand, but there are several reports of it in this thread and various others on OCN.


----------



## klyzon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> You mean the EK Predators that had _legitimate_, well documented block leaks and got recalled?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Kidding aside (the leak problem existed, but has been rectified), the Predators are nice units. I prefer the Swiftechs since they use a better pump and are better optimized for low noise performance (and they are much better looking IMO), but the Predators are still well above any other AiO out there.
> 
> However, we have seen many issues with the Predator in the Evolv ATX. Mind you, I have no idea why and what is causing the issue. But it seems that Predator 360mm have an impossible time exhausting when mounted on top. What makes it even more of an oddity is that other 360mm with high speed fans (even the same Vardars) don't seem to be nearly as affected. I haven't seen the issue first hand, but there are several reports of it in this thread and various others on OCN.


can't seem to find any other 360mm aio. Maybe i should just go with the h115i.


----------



## Duality92

All water cooling discussions after this post will be deleted.


----------



## jassilamba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> For those who do not know jassilamba, he definitely has more experience than most builders / reviewers/ testers / modders do. He fifinitely knows what he's doing and how to explain it all so we can understand and use his advice.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now jass, don't let that swell you head too big. You may be good, but there is always somebody better.


Haha, you are too kind man. I wouldn't say that I know a lot, but I'm more than happy to share anything with you guys. If anyone does have any questions feel free to IM me here or catch me on youtube or the mod zoo.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *klyzon*
> 
> Beware of the swiftech h220x2 especially. I had 2 and both had very bad leakage due to crack cpu blocks.
> 
> I now have a 3 month old water damaged 980ti, a1 week old water damaged 1080 and a old h100I left


Swiftech had a bad batch where they had a lot of issues, but I agree with you on your warning.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneFunGenesis*
> 
> Did you not test these externally with a jumped PSU? Nothing water goes in a powered case until fully tested....


Great point, but one does not expect an enthusiast AIO (Swiftech or EK) to leak as they did. But yes, always test anything water related (even an H100 or something) with a PSU jumper and paper towel or 2 under fittings, connections, or gaps. I forgot to fully tighten the fitting on the CPU, and had a couple drops fall on the GPU during leak testing. Also never add dye until you have leak tested the system.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *redshoulder*
> 
> What kind of temps do you get with this setup?


Getting mid to upper 30s on both the CPUs and the GPUs at idle, and mid to upper 40s under full load. I'm using the stock fans on the case, and the RX360 has 3 deepcool PWM fans running with the RPM dialed down for as quiet of an operation as possible.

Ambient sound level in my office where the PC is - 21 DB
Sound levels with the system running - 31 DB

I used an app on my phone to determine that so treat it how you want to lol.


----------



## pez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Duality92*
> 
> All water cooling discussions after this post will be deleted.


Sorry, that may have been my fault







. I brought up looking for a cooler for my Evolv ITX build again







.


----------



## Duality92

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jassilamba*
> 
> Haha, you are too kind man. I wouldn't say that I know a lot, but I'm more than happy to share anything with you guys. If anyone does have any questions feel free to IM me here or catch me on youtube or the mod zoo.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Swiftech had a bad batch where they had a lot of issues, but I agree with you on your warning.
> Great point, but one does not expect an enthusiast AIO (Swiftech or EK) to leak as they did. But yes, always test anything water related (even an H100 or something) with a PSU jumper and paper towel or 2 under fittings, connections, or gaps. I forgot to fully tighten the fitting on the CPU, and had a couple drops fall on the GPU during leak testing. Also never add dye until you have leak tested the system.
> Getting mid to upper 30s on both the CPUs and the GPUs at idle, and mid to upper 40s under full load. I'm using the stock fans on the case, and the RX360 has 3 deepcool PWM fans running with the RPM dialed down for as quiet of an operation as possible.
> 
> Ambient sound level in my office where the PC is - 21 DB
> Sound levels with the system running - 31 DB
> 
> I used an app on my phone to determine that so treat it how you want to lol.


Edited your post to spoiler tag the water cooling talk. I do however agree with testing out of the case.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pez*
> 
> Sorry, that may have been my fault
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . I brought up looking for a cooler for my Evolv ITX build again
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


If the water cooling discussion is being held as to what fits in what case, etc etc, that's fine, but just speaking about reliability and leaking stuff is not.


----------



## jassilamba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Duality92*
> 
> Edited your post to spoiler tag the water cooling talk. I do however agree with testing out of the case.


Fair point, and a good call. Thanks for editing my post as well.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *klyzon*
> 
> can't seem to find any other 360mm aio. Maybe i should just go with the h115i.


Then you have the recirculating air issue in the Evolv ATX if you don't seal off the open spaces in the radiator mount to isolate the front and back. I am guessing by your reaction that you have an Evolv ATX?

And that is a bit like saying "motorcycles require tune ups, so maybe I should just get a tricycle with the little box that makes motor noises".

I know you said no more WaCo comments, but this is Evolv ATX specific. Well.....at least the first paragraph is......


----------



## Duality92

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Then you have the recirculating air issue in the Evolv ATX if you don't seal off the open spaces in the radiator mount to isolate the front and back. I am guessing by your reaction that you have an Evolv ATX?
> 
> And that is a bit like saying "motorcycles require tune ups, so maybe I should just get a tricycle with the little box that makes motor noises".
> 
> I know you said no more WaCo comments, but this is Evolv ATX specific. Well.....at least the first paragraph is......


It's fair game because you're saying Phanteks specifics.


----------



## jassilamba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *klyzon*
> 
> can't seem to find any other 360mm aio. Maybe i should just go with the h115i.


Do what you feel comfortable with. One idea that I might suggest is that you could install the H115i in the front of the case, and just put some fans on the top. Keep in mind you could always do a custom loop as well.


----------



## klyzon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Then you have the recirculating air issue in the Evolv ATX if you don't seal off the open spaces in the radiator mount to isolate the front and back. I am guessing by your reaction that you have an Evolv ATX?
> 
> And that is a bit like saying "motorcycles require tune ups, so maybe I should just get a tricycle with the little box that makes motor noises".
> 
> I know you said no more WaCo comments, but this is Evolv ATX specific. Well.....at least the first paragraph is......


actually, if i stick with my current h100i, if i install another fan at the empty slot up top, will i still need to cover the empty space? I was thinking maybe a standalone fan there would be able to push the air back up without it leaking back into the case.

If the above works, i would probably do it plus let the top sit on the mount, giving it more space to exhaust


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *klyzon*
> 
> actually, if i stick with my current h100i, if i install another fan at the empty slot up top, will i still need to cover the empty space? I was thinking maybe a standalone fan there would be able to push the air back up without it leaking back into the case.
> 
> If the above works, i would probably do it plus let the top sit on the mount, giving it more space to exhaust


Think on that for a second......you are asking if adding more airflow (that will not help your cooling and is just airflow for the sake of airflow) into a restricted to fight with your functional fans is a good idea. More is not always better, and is many times worse, as is the case with the top of an Evolv ATX.


----------



## jassilamba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *klyzon*
> 
> actually, if i stick with my current h100i, if i install another fan at the empty slot up top, will i still need to cover the empty space? I was thinking maybe a standalone fan there would be able to push the air back up without it leaking back into the case.
> 
> If the above works, i would probably do it plus let the top sit on the mount, giving it more space to exhaust


Try it out and see how you like it (if you have a spare fan). If your temps look good and ur happy with it, that is all that matters.


----------



## OneFunGenesis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Think on that for a second......you are asking if adding more airflow (that will not help your cooling and is just airflow for the sake of airflow) into a restricted to fight with your functional fans is a good idea. More is not always better, and is many times worse, as is the case with the top of an Evolv ATX.


This is the more accurate answer. It isn't the fact that you're not pushing enough air up there, it is the fact that the air cannot escape.

Its like putting people in a prison cell and opening the door. They aren't running out fast enough, so you decide to put more people behind them. Still the same amount escape...hopefully that clears it up lol


----------



## Stein619

Hey everyone, has anyone seen the enthoo pro m tempered glass edition on sale? I've bought one from here https://www.pccasegear.com/products/36366/phanteks-enthoo-pro-m-tempered-glass-edition and they're a reliable site but it's bordering on the expected delivery time and I can't find the case anywhere else.

Anyone have any ideas? I'm worried I bought something that doesn't exist


----------



## savage1987

Sorry if this has been covered before - I'm on my second Phanteks build now and have had the same problem with both of them:

Plugging the CPU_FAN header into the Phanteks hub's input resulted in a CPU fan warning in the first system and a boot loop in the second. Am I doing something wrong or are some boards just a little bit weird about it?

edit: Stein69 your case exists, I bought one from PCCG a few months ago - that's build #2 I just referred to above







It's a beautiful case, you'll love it but you want to make damn sure you do a good job of your wiring because the back is glass also :'D

edit2: Stein69 actually just read your post properly and mine's the Evolv ATX TG ... you can disregard that wiring comment


----------



## Stein619

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *savage1987*
> 
> edit2: Stein69 actually just read your post properly and mine's the Evolv ATX TG ... you can disregard that wiring comment


That wiring thing is part of the reason I jumped on this without looking into it lol the back panel is metal and being my first ever build I'd rather not have my cable management on show lol


----------



## klg1128

Hi everyone, I just wanted to know if my eclipse P400s has a good airflow layout. Got 2 Phanteks F140SPs mounted in the front for intake (full rpm), the 2 stock case fans are mounted on top as exhaust (and connected to the case fan controller, usually left on high), and a Corsair H80i v2 with 2 Phanteks F120MPs push-pull (Corsair link set to quiet). Am I doing this right? In corsair link, the cores (i5 4690k) are usually always under 40c. I also must say, I am so happy that I replaced the stock corsair fans on the h80. They were so loud and didn't really cool that well at the high rpms they were always at compared to the Phanteks F120MP fans (as suggested by @michael-ocn







)


----------



## owcraftsman

Okay looking for some help making the most out of my Entho luxe water loop and based on what I've read from contributors here in this thread over the last three years I'm in good hands. << Can you believe that? ... 3 years? Happy anniversary Doyll.









I'm swapping builds from the Eclipse to the Luxe because I don't see a good way to handle the heat in my Eclipse w/ over clocked CPU and 2 GPU. Both rigs and there components are in my sig below. The dual ACS coolers of the OCed 980Ti's dumps way too much heat into the case.

In the Luxe I will be adding water blocks to both GPUs and upgrading the CPU block to the newest XSPC Raystorm Pro. My idea is illustrated below and I need your help refining it for max performance. Keep in mind I have a BluRay drive that must stay and the dual bay d5 stays as well and I've done the measuring and research to know an X-Flow 360 and other components will fit. Dual bay d5 in the top two 5-1/4 bays and the optical drive in the bottom 3rd bay. The GPU blocks will be EK acetal/nickel w/backplates. I'm also considering keeping the Corsair SP120 AS HSP fans but I'll leave the rest to your better judgement. Like what is intake/exhaust loop config tubing size etc.


----------



## pez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Duality92*
> 
> Edited your post to spoiler tag the water cooling talk. I do however agree with testing out of the case.
> If the water cooling discussion is being held as to what fits in what case, etc etc, that's fine, but just speaking about reliability and leaking stuff is not.


Understood







. Thank you, good sir!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jassilamba*
> 
> Do what you feel comfortable with. One idea that I might suggest is that you could install the H115i in the front of the case, and just put some fans on the top. Keep in mind you could always do a custom loop as well.


I thought the general consensus (basing this on domments from doyll and ciar') that rad intake is a bad idea unless all components are water cooled. More specifically being a bad idea for dumping hot rad air onto the GPU.


----------



## jassilamba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *savage1987*
> 
> Sorry if this has been covered before - I'm on my second Phanteks build now and have had the same problem with both of them:
> 
> Plugging the CPU_FAN header into the Phanteks hub's input resulted in a CPU fan warning in the first system and a boot loop in the second. Am I doing something wrong or are some boards just a little bit weird about it?


I'm running the same case Evolv ATX TG, but I have my fan hub connected to the CPU optional fan and I noticed that by default the RPMs were too low that fans would struggle to start spinning. Went into the fan calibration on my Gigabyte X99 ultra gaming board and problem solved. Give that a shot and see if that helps (as long as your board has some kind of fan calibration option). Also I always connect the same fans to a hub. Mixing and matching could cause issues.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *klg1128*
> 
> Hi everyone, I just wanted to know if my eclipse P400s has a good airflow layout. Got 2 Phanteks F140SPs mounted in the front for intake (full rpm), the 2 stock case fans are mounted on top as exhaust (and connected to the case fan controller, usually left on high), and a Corsair H80i v2 with 2 Phanteks F120MPs push-pull (Corsair link set to quiet). Am I doing this right? In corsair link, the cores (i5 4690k) are usually always under 40c. I also must say, I am so happy that I replaced the stock corsair fans on the h80. They were so loud and didn't really cool that well at the high rpms they were always at compared to the Phanteks F120MP fans.


My answer to this is always to see if ur setup works with u. I always run positive pressure in my builds to keep the dust out and I use NZXT cam to see how my temps compare to others with the same hardware.


----------



## jassilamba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pez*
> 
> I thought the general consensus (basing this on domments from doyll and ciar') that rad intake is a bad idea unless all components are water cooled. More specifically being a bad idea for dumping hot rad air onto the GPU.


you are gonna circulate some air regardless. I would go for what looks the best and provide some temps that are average for my hardware in use. I also run the rear fan directly from the board that way I can control the fronts, rear and top fans separately allowing me to better control the air flow based on temps.


----------



## michael-ocn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *klyzon*
> 
> actually, if i stick with my current h100i, if i install another fan at the empty slot up top, will i still need to cover the empty space? I was thinking maybe a standalone fan there would be able to push the air back up without it leaking back into the case.
> 
> If the above works, i would probably do it plus let the top sit on the mount, giving it more space to exhaust


If you have a liquid cooled cpu and your gpu is air cool, this arrangement works well in the evolveATX. The rad is top mounted, but given the internal airflow, it doesn't depend on air flowing thru the top. The narrow gap in the roof at the back of the case (between the rear fan and the rad) is sealed off with cardboard so warm air can't recirculate up there. A little bit of air is drawn in thru the top panel vents, but mostly cool air comes in thru the front panel (blue arrows in the pic).


----------



## michael-ocn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *klg1128*
> 
> Hi everyone, I just wanted to know if my eclipse P400s has a good airflow layout. Got 2 Phanteks F140SPs mounted in the front for intake (full rpm), the 2 stock case fans are mounted on top as exhaust (and connected to the case fan controller, usually left on high), and a Corsair H80i v2 with 2 Phanteks F120MPs push-pull (Corsair link set to quiet). Am I doing this right? In corsair link, the cores (i5 4690k) are usually always under 40c. I also must say, I am so happy that I replaced the stock corsair fans on the h80. They were so loud and didn't really cool that well at the high rpms they were always at compared to the Phanteks F120MP fans (as suggested by @michael-ocn
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )


hey, glad i helped and thnx for the mention


----------



## jsc1973

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stein619*
> 
> Hey everyone, has anyone seen the enthoo pro m tempered glass edition on sale? I've bought one from here https://www.pccasegear.com/products/36366/phanteks-enthoo-pro-m-tempered-glass-edition and they're a reliable site but it's bordering on the expected delivery time and I can't find the case anywhere else.
> 
> Anyone have any ideas? I'm worried I bought something that doesn't exist


It was announced in late May: https://www.techpowerup.com/222961/phanteks-also-launches-tempered-glass-editions-of-enthoo-evolv-atx-and-pro-m and that site you purchased yours from claims to have many more for sale on eBay. It is odd, though, that it doesn't seem to be on Phanteks' website, and PC Case Gear seems to be the only place in the world that claims to have them in stock.

I've seen things like this before, though. Last year, AMD announced the Athlon 870K early in the year, but it never showed up anywhere until some obscure vendor started selling them on Amazon Japan around Christmas. Whoever it was legitimately had a few for sale, and some were even benchmarked, but no one else in the world seemed to have any 870K's until the 880K also turned up in March.

Maybe they know someone at Phanteks and managed to get a shipment of these before anyone else did.


----------



## TK421

Can EK PREDATOR 360 fit in Enthoo Luxe?


----------



## xTesla1856

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TK421*
> 
> Can EK PREDATOR 360 fit in Enthoo Luxe?


*HOW TO FIT EK PREDATOR 360 IN AN ENTHOO LUXE*

Fitting a Predator 360 in an Enthoo Luxe is pretty straight forward, since the case supports a 360 rad up top. But there is however one caveat: Due to the Predators thickness (Fans+Rad measure 70mm), you will not be able to connect your CPU 8-pin to your motherboard. The solution appears simple: Remove the fans (involves cutting zip-ties and ruining EK's immaculate cable runs) and mount the fans "on top" of the case and the radiator to the ceiling inside. But here's the issue: The pump+res unit is not detachable and is both taller and wider than the radiator itself. Long story short; you're gonna have to cut up your top panel of your Enthoo Luxe. The cuts are very simple, but please make sure you have the right tool for the job: Either a rotary dremel, or a very good hacksaw blade. Below, you will see 2 methods: A clean method using a proper saw (credit goes to Petelock on overclockersUK) and my personal method (didn't have a dremel, made a mess). My method involves a little more brute force, but once the top panel with the LED's is installed again, you will never notice the cuts again.
IF YOU WANT TO DO PUSH PULL: Push/Pull is also possible, but involves trimming one of your push fans to accomodate the 8-Pin CPU connector, as it won't fit (using Vardars, credit goes again to Petelock on overclockersUK) Below, you will find all necessary pictures, including a push/pull config.

(This guide may also apply to other EK Predator series coolers as well as the Enthoo Pro)


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## TK421

Can you show picture of case mod?

I have dremel tool, what cutting head do you recommend?


----------



## xTesla1856

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TK421*
> 
> Can you show picture of case mod?
> 
> I have dremel tool, what cutting head do you recommend?


Here's what you need to cut out, I didn't have a dremel, so mine looks a little more messy


----------



## doyll

@xTesla1856, If you will edit your last post with some info about what it is (Enthoo Luxe modificaton to intstall EK Predator 360) I'll link it in opening post index list.


----------



## MountainDewMadOScar

My 1070 finally arrived


----------



## pez

Nice and clean







.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jassilamba*
> 
> you are gonna circulate some air regardless. I would go for what looks the best and provide some temps that are average for my hardware in use. I also run the rear fan directly from the board that way I can control the fronts, rear and top fans separately allowing me to better control the air flow based on temps.


I guess I can see in the event of people manually controlling their fans, but you're still putting hotter air on your GPU(s) with that setup versus what you would be getting if it was just intake fans.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jassilamba*
> 
> you are gonna circulate some air regardless. I would go for what looks the best and provide some temps that are average for my hardware in use. I also run the rear fan directly from the board that way I can control the fronts, rear and top fans separately allowing me to better control the air flow based on temps.


if you have the extra fan instead of blocking the unused area you will be compounding the problem...if you have that third fan as intake you will be circulating hot air through the rad continuously...if its exhaust you will be pulling that hot air randomly and not directing it for a natural flow and through the rad...as was mentioned more isnt always better

This is assuming rad is exhaust if its intake the same thing only exhaust would circulate and intake would disrupt flow through the rad


----------



## TK421

Hmm, if the reservoir / pump unit is on the back of the case, would if impede an AIO installation on the rear case fan spof?


----------



## xTesla1856

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TK421*
> 
> Hmm, if the reservoir / pump unit is on the back of the case, would if impede an AIO installation on the rear case fan spof?


No, there are a few milimeters of space between tubing and the fan. When I get home later today, I will take detailed pics of my setup. It was a b**ch to get in though


----------



## Qgon

Hello!

I got a Enthoo Luxe with i7 5820k @ 4 GHz w/ Corsair H110i GTX and a GTX 1080 Palit Jetstream OC to 1800 / 1375. I rly like the Style of the Evolve ATX so I have some questions to the Evolve ATX owners:

I would put 2 Noctua NF-A14 at the FRONT as INTAKE and 1 at the rear as EXHAUST. Two Nocua NF-A14 on the Radiator of my H110i GTX on TOP as EXHAUST too.

- When I put the Corsair H110i GTX AiO at TOP as EXHAUST (Push) will the CPU get hotter than in my Luxe now?
- Will my GPU get hotter in the Evolve ATX than in my Luxe?
- Is it worth to switch from my Luxe to the Evolve ATX?

In my Luxe now my Temps of my CPU(4 GHz @ 1.11V) and GPU are:

CPU at Prime95: hottest Core is 75° coolest is 68° (after 30 minutes)
CPU at Witcher 3: hottest Core 60° coolest 52° (after 1 Hour)

GPU at Witcher 3: 69° (after 1 Hour)

I rly would like to know if the Airflow is better/worse/same like in my Luxe. Maybe here are some Evolve ATX owners who can tell me their temps and experience?

Thanks for helping.


----------



## TK421

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xTesla1856*
> 
> No, there are a few milimeters of space between tubing and the fan. When I get home later today, I will take detailed pics of my setup. It was a b**ch to get in though


maybe something like this


----------



## vaoqeRG

A quick question regarding the Enthoo Primo, would it fit the X99-E WS 3.1 without any modification? PCPartPicker seems to disagree and I have been looking on there and found some builds with that case and motherboard with no visible mods for fitting.


----------



## Chiobe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vaoqeRG*
> 
> A quick question regarding the Enthoo Primo, would it fit the X99-E WS 3.1 without any modification? PCPartPicker seems to disagree and I have been looking on there and found some builds with that case and motherboard with no visible mods for fitting.


That should work without a problem, but reservoir bracket might need to be removed (which is what PCPartPicker sees as the issue).


----------



## vaoqeRG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chiobe*
> 
> That should work without a problem, but reservoir bracket might need to be removed (which is what PCPartPicker sees as the issue).


I see, many thanks.

And once the reservoir bracket is removed, would the Primo have as much clearance for gpu as the Luxe?


----------



## Chiobe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vaoqeRG*
> 
> I see, many thanks.
> 
> And once the reservoir bracket is removed, would the Primo have as much clearance for gpu as the Luxe?


You get about 350mm without the bracket, till the 5.25 bays.


----------



## vaoqeRG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chiobe*
> 
> You get about 350mm without the bracket, till the 5.25 bays.


Thank you so much, that is plenty for me.

One last thing, if I was to potentially use 4 gpus (2 slots, blower style) would the Primo be capable of housing it comfortably? Both the Primo and Luxe have 8 expansion slots but I know that the Luxe has the PSU shroud so might be tight, and all the Primo pictures that I have seen with 3+ gpus have been water cooled.


----------



## Sazexa

Well, the build is basically done. Snapped a few pictures last night. I'll fix the wires and take the "showcase" shots soon.


----------



## xTesla1856

As promised, pictures of my build and my Predator 360 hackjob (I didn't have a dremel or a good enough saw, and I was dying to put my rig together). Once I attach the top panel though, the damage is invisible. But the Predator now fits comforatbly, with the fans "on top" of the case.


----------



## Chiobe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vaoqeRG*
> 
> Thank you so much, that is plenty for me.
> 
> One last thing, if I was to potentially use 4 gpus (2 slots, blower style) would the Primo be capable of housing it comfortably? Both the Primo and Luxe have 8 expansion slots but I know that the Luxe has the PSU shroud so might be tight, and all the Primo pictures that I have seen with 3+ gpus have been water cooled.


4 way is not a problem, but you might want to consider water cooling as I'm not sure the cards can get enough air flow to prevent throttling.


----------



## vaoqeRG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chiobe*
> 
> 4 way is not a problem, but you might want to consider water cooling as I'm not sure the cards can get enough air flow to prevent throttling.


I see, many thanks. I suspect I will need to go with watercooling when I get to 3 gpus but good to know the case can handle air too.


----------



## Faster_is_better

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *owcraftsman*
> 
> Okay looking for some help making the most out of my Entho luxe water loop and based on what I've read from contributors here in this thread over the last three years I'm in good hands. << Can you believe that? ... 3 years? Happy anniversary Doyll.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm swapping builds from the Eclipse to the Luxe because I don't see a good way to handle the heat in my Eclipse w/ over clocked CPU and 2 GPU. Both rigs and there components are in my sig below. The dual ACS coolers of the OCed 980Ti's dumps way too much heat into the case.
> 
> In the Luxe I will be adding water blocks to both GPUs and upgrading the CPU block to the newest XSPC Raystorm Pro. My idea is illustrated below and I need your help refining it for max performance. Keep in mind I have a BluRay drive that must stay and the dual bay d5 stays as well and I've done the measuring and research to know an X-Flow 360 and other components will fit. Dual bay d5 in the top two 5-1/4 bays and the optical drive in the bottom 3rd bay. The GPU blocks will be EK acetal/nickel w/backplates. I'm also considering keeping the Corsair SP120 AS HSP fans but I'll leave the rest to your better judgement. Like what is intake/exhaust loop config tubing size etc.


Loop run looks good to me. Seems like I read something about those crossflow radiators not being as good, maybe more restrictive? I don't think it was a whole lot and likely not enough to change up your loop layout to use something else. I always liked the idea of the crossflow rads to make cleaner plumbing lines.

As far as fan direction or fan models, not my expertise so I'll let the other cooling masters chime in there







Corsair series fans are not really that great though as far as performance, their main appeal is the bling factor.


----------



## xTesla1856

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> @xTesla1856, If you will edit your last post with some info about what it is (Enthoo Luxe modificaton to intstall EK Predator 360) I'll link it in opening post index list.


Here you go









http://www.overclock.net/t/1418637/official-case-phanteks-case-club-for-lovers-owners/14800_50#post_25463520


----------



## TK421

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xTesla1856*
> 
> Here you go
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1418637/official-case-phanteks-case-club-for-lovers-owners/14800_50#post_25463520


Same thing for mounting pump unit in front?


----------



## owcraftsman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Faster_is_better*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *owcraftsman*
> 
> Okay looking for some help making the most out of my Entho luxe water loop and based on what I've read from contributors here in this thread over the last three years I'm in good hands. << Can you believe that? ... 3 years? Happy anniversary Doyll.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm swapping builds from the Eclipse to the Luxe because I don't see a good way to handle the heat in my Eclipse w/ over clocked CPU and 2 GPU. Both rigs and there components are in my sig below. The dual ACS coolers of the OCed 980Ti's dumps way too much heat into the case.
> 
> In the Luxe I will be adding water blocks to both GPUs and upgrading the CPU block to the newest XSPC Raystorm Pro. My idea is illustrated below and I need your help refining it for max performance. Keep in mind I have a BluRay drive that must stay and the dual bay d5 stays as well and I've done the measuring and research to know an X-Flow 360 and other components will fit. Dual bay d5 in the top two 5-1/4 bays and the optical drive in the bottom 3rd bay. The GPU blocks will be EK acetal/nickel w/backplates. I'm also considering keeping the Corsair SP120 AS HSP fans but I'll leave the rest to your better judgement. Like what is intake/exhaust loop config tubing size etc.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Loop run looks good to me. Seems like I read something about those crossflow radiators not being as good, maybe more restrictive? I don't think it was a whole lot and likely not enough to change up your loop layout to use something else. I always liked the idea of the crossflow rads to make cleaner plumbing lines.
> 
> As far as fan direction or fan models, not my expertise so I'll let the other cooling masters chime in there
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Corsair series fans are not really that great though as far as performance, their main appeal is the bling factor.
Click to expand...

From the product description, "The X.Flow Radiators are designed for high flow rates. The beveled copper chambers on both sides have an identical structure. The Water is jetting at the same time through all available channels to the other chamber to which it then leaves the radiator". That said I understand flow rate is going to be controlled by the most restrictive component in the loop be it CPU or GPU Block. Still I think higher flow rate will be achieved using them making the upgrade worth while. I think the XSPC Raystorm Pro is a low restrictive block with better than average performance but the original is a tad less restrictive. The problem I've had is deciding whether to set both rads as intake with one rear exhaust or front in top out and balancing the right fans to the mix. Add to that the 6700k runs a bit hotter than a 4770k and an extra GPU I want to consider my options carefully. I like the idea of both rads set intake but have tried it both way with the current setup with very little perceivable difference. 1 to 2 c temp difference when both set to intake but I expected a bit more. Right now I don't think I'm seeing any benefit to 4x fans on the front rad but the X-Flow I'm thinking of has 6 more FPI so I see that as being an improvement as well. In any case thanks for the response. I think I'm treading into uncharted territory so maybe I'll just have wing it on my own. If I were just trading out rads only I could nail this and know for sure it's an improvement but that's not going to happen.


----------



## jassilamba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sazexa*
> 
> Well, the build is basically done. Snapped a few pictures last night. I'll fix the wires and take the "showcase" shots soon.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


That is a nice looking build.


----------



## DONGOTTI

More progress while I wait for fittings










Edit: Disregard blue fitting in upper rad, was using it for finding center to center lol. Have silver shining 90's on order


----------



## xTesla1856

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TK421*
> 
> Same thing for mounting pump unit in front?


Yes, the top of the case is symmetrical, same things apply for mounting the Predator that way. Just make sure you have enough space in your 5.25" bay area for the fittings and the tubing.


----------



## Qgon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qgon*
> 
> Hello!
> 
> I got a Enthoo Luxe with i7 5820k @ 4 GHz w/ Corsair H110i GTX and a GTX 1080 Palit Jetstream OC to 1800 / 1375. I rly like the Style of the Evolve ATX so I have some questions to the Evolve ATX owners:
> 
> I would put 2 Noctua NF-A14 at the FRONT as INTAKE and 1 at the rear as EXHAUST. Two Nocua NF-A14 on the Radiator of my H110i GTX on TOP as EXHAUST too.
> 
> - When I put the Corsair H110i GTX AiO at TOP as EXHAUST (Push) will the CPU get hotter than in my Luxe now?
> - Will my GPU get hotter in the Evolve ATX than in my Luxe?
> - Is it worth to switch from my Luxe to the Evolve ATX?
> 
> In my Luxe now my Temps of my CPU(4 GHz @ 1.11V) and GPU are:
> 
> CPU at Prime95: hottest Core is 75° coolest is 68° (after 30 minutes)
> CPU at Witcher 3: hottest Core 60° coolest 52° (after 1 Hour)
> 
> GPU at Witcher 3: 69° (after 1 Hour)
> 
> I rly would like to know if the Airflow is better/worse/same like in my Luxe. Maybe here are some Evolve ATX owners who can tell me their temps and experience?
> 
> Thanks for helping.


Can noone help me on this?


----------



## TK421

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qgon*
> 
> Can noone help me on this?


how the hell did you manage 4ghz at 1.11v lol...

my chip isn't even stable at 1.25v

As for the case, I think Luxe might have better airflow. The Evolv doesn't have a clear exhaust on the top so you might have to use more fanspeed to force the hot air out.


----------



## KaptainK

Hello there !

What are the best rad to put in an evolv mATX ?
I think i've got to go with 2x240 slim rad and first choose nemesis GTS but they are too wide ...


----------



## Qgon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TK421*
> 
> how the hell did you manage 4ghz at 1.11v lol...
> 
> my chip isn't even stable at 1.25v
> 
> As for the case, I think Luxe might have better airflow. The Evolv doesn't have a clear exhaust on the top so you might have to use more fanspeed to force the hot air out.


Ok thank you! I rly like the Evolve ATX but I'm afraid my temps will go up like 5-10° on the CPU

I was stable even at 1.1V @ 4 GHz







4 Hours Prime95


----------



## michael-ocn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qgon*
> 
> Can noone help me on this?


4Ghz at 1.1 is quite mild and should be reasonably easy to keep cool.
Either case will work fine, the luxe has better cooling but he evolv looks cooler.


----------



## Qgon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *michael-ocn*
> 
> 4Ghz at 1.1 is quite mild and should be reasonably easy to keep cool.
> Either case will work fine, the luxe has better cooling but he evolv looks cooler.


Thanks! So how much hotter will my CPU get in the Evolve ATX you think?

And may I ask your Voltage of your 4,4 GHz OC on your 5820k?


----------



## michael-ocn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qgon*
> 
> Thanks! So how much hotter will my CPU get in the Evolve ATX you think?
> 
> And may I ask your Voltage of your 4,4 GHz OC on your 5820k?


4.4Ghz at 1.23v (see rig sig), have mine setup like this which completely avoids the cpu choking on the gpus exhaust...


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







Mostly the cpu is around 50c while gaming but can spike up to 60'ish. OCCT stress testing puts the core temps into the 70s, low 70s in the coolest core high 70s on the hottest core, package temp gets into the low 80s.

I wouldn't worry about the temp difference while stability testing (stability test with panels removed if need be), conditions like that will never arise during normal use. But temp differences while using the system as you intend to use it matter. So long as it's not over heating, you're good.

edit: Also, p95 on haswell is absurd, insanely avx intensive and insanely hot running as a result. Most people don't like to use that test for these chip. It's unecessary and can harm the chip. Personally, I like OCCT "large data set" for the toughest round of cpu stress test but others like the x265 and x264 benches more. http://www.overclock.net/t/1510388/haswell-e-overclock-leaderboard-owners-club


----------



## Rikuo

My Enthoo Primo Black/Red comes tomorrow!

Trying to plan out my loop in my head atm, Can you fit a 280mm in the front of the case, without removing the hard drive bays?

Was hoping for 480 top & bottom & 280 front, Although I'm sure 2x 480's will be more than enough.. I just happen to have an extra 280 laying around.


----------



## jassilamba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rikuo*
> 
> My Enthoo Primo Black/Red comes tomorrow!
> 
> Trying to plan out my loop in my head atm, Can you fit a 280mm in the front of the case, without removing the hard drive bays?
> 
> Was hoping for 480 top & bottom & 280 front, Although I'm sure 2x 480's will be more than enough.. I just happen to have an extra 280 laying around.


Negative on the 280 in the front along with a couple 480s in the case.



What all components are you thinking of cooling?


----------



## jassilamba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaptainK*
> 
> Hello there !
> 
> What are the best rad to put in an evolv mATX ?
> I think i've got to go with 2x240 slim rad and first choose nemesis GTS but they are too wide ...


Magicool has some thin rads or XSPC EX series should work great in the evolv mATX and won't break the bank. I know EK has a slim line as well, but I find them overpriced.


----------



## Rikuo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jassilamba*
> 
> Negative on the 280 in the front along with a couple 480s in the case.
> 
> 
> 
> What all components are you thinking of cooling?


Yea, Didn't think I'd be able to









2x 1080's & a 6700k

Figured If i could fit the extra 280mm, Might as well


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaptainK*
> 
> Hello there !
> 
> What are the best rad to put in an evolv mATX ?
> I think i've got to go with 2x240 slim rad and first choose nemesis GTS but they are too wide ...


I had a Black Ice Nemesis 240 GTS in the front of my Evolv-iTX, I had to notch the front of the PSU cover for it to fit but it is a great radiator.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rfarmer*
> 
> I had a Black Ice Nemesis 240 GTS in the front of my Evolv-iTX, I had to notch the front of the PSU cover for it to fit but it is a great radiator.


The GTS is far and away the best slim rad on the market, by a pretty substantial margin.

EK SE series are the polar opposite. Awful radiators.


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> The GTS is far and away the best slim rad on the market, by a pretty substantial margin.
> 
> EK SE series are the polar opposite. Awful radiators.


This is why the leak test step exists.

I have a 280 GTS XFlow and can confirm it is indeed a terrific rad. The finish is superb.


----------



## Stein619

look what came today







I don't know why it's only sold on the one place but the enthoo pro m tempered glass edition exists and it looks awesome. I can't wait to build me first system in it ?


----------



## springs113

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stein619*
> 
> look what came today
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't know why it's only sold on the one place but the enthoo pro m tempered glass edition exists and it looks awesome. I can't wait to build me first system in it ?


it looks real good but i think i maybe limited in trying to put all my components in one not to mention possibly having to remove my mobo's backplate just to get that in. 3 360 rads (2 56 mm nemesis, one 60mm alphacool) rog v e10, with 2 290xs


----------



## OneFunGenesis

Well, I guess I'm calling phanteks and seeing if I can get a TG side panel for my case. The acrylic is just too soft


----------



## springs113

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneFunGenesis*
> 
> Well, I guess I'm calling phanteks and seeing if I can get a TG side panel for my case. The acrylic is just too soft


i guess i will too but for info on the elite as there's nothing out there that entices me other than the primo but looks like it'll still limit me with what i want to really do, and since I've done basically splurged on this build why not go all the way out. If only the evolv atc tg edition could fit at least 3 360 rads.


----------



## vaoqeRG

Is there a case for getting the Primo over the Luxe for non watercooled builds?

I will be air cooling a build and have had a hard time choosing between the Primo and the Luxe. Would the larger Primo offer more airflow? (grasping at straws here







)

Basically the Luxe fits my needs at the moment BUT, I really like the look of the Primo. The build my grow larger with time with multiple GPUs and having the option to go watercooling is a plus on the Primo.

What I am trying to ask is, please give me a good reason to get the Primo over the Luxe


----------



## dlewbell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vaoqeRG*
> 
> Is there a case for getting the Primo over the Luxe for non watercooled builds?
> 
> I will be air cooling a build and have had a hard time choosing between the Primo and the Luxe. Would the larger Primo offer more airflow? (grasping at straws here
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )
> 
> Basically the Luxe fits my needs at the moment BUT, I really like the look of the Primo. The build my grow larger with time with multiple GPUs and having the option to go watercooling is a plus on the Primo.
> 
> What I am trying to ask is, please give me a good reason to get the Primo over the Luxe


If you don't mind spending $240, liking the look is a good enough reason to pick the Primo. It comes with 5 of the PH-F140SP fans, & is available with a variety of interior color options vs. only black or white on the Luxe. It's also less likely to be stolen as a result of already being 40# empty. The only real benefit I see over the Luxe for air cooling is that the PSU is mounted sideways, allowing for fans directly under the GPU. Also, if you want a black one, the Luxe has been in pretty limited supply in the US, not sure about other countries, so the price difference has been less than normal.

The biggest reason to pick the Primo is that you won't sit around wishing you had just purchased the case you really wanted in the first place. They'll both work great. Get the one you actually want.


----------



## vaoqeRG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dlewbell*
> 
> If you don't mind spending $240, liking the look is a good enough reason to pick the Primo. It comes with 5 of the PH-F140SP fans, & is available with a variety of interior color options vs. only black or white on the Luxe. It's also less likely to be stolen as a result of already being 40# empty. The only real benefit I see over the Luxe for air cooling is that the PSU is mounted sideways, allowing for fans directly under the GPU. Also, if you want a black one, the Luxe has been in pretty limited supply in the US, not sure about other countries, so the price difference has been less than normal.
> 
> The biggest reason to pick the Primo is that you won't sit around wishing you had just purchased the case you really wanted in the first place. They'll both work great. Get the one you actually want.


Thanks a lot for your reply!

One piece of information I hould have added is that I can get both for the same price, otherwise I would not have considered the Primo. Both the Luxe and the SE Black/White Primo are sold at similar prices here, whereas any other version of the Primo is sold at full price.

The cost being the same is why I am having this dilemma. I am feeling as though if I take the Luxe I am missing out on upgradability and potentially better cooling due to size. In addition to me liking the design of the Primo more so than the Luxe.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vaoqeRG*
> 
> Is there a case for getting the Primo over the Luxe for non watercooled builds?
> 
> I will be air cooling a build and have had a hard time choosing between the Primo and the Luxe. Would the larger Primo offer more airflow? (grasping at straws here
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )
> 
> Basically the Luxe fits my needs at the moment BUT, I really like the look of the Primo. The build my grow larger with time with multiple GPUs and having the option to go watercooling is a plus on the Primo.
> 
> What I am trying to ask is, please give me a good reason to get the Primo over the Luxe


Both are great cases. I have both, but am not using Primo now. It's just too big! It is much bigger than it looks!


----------



## doyll

Bigger is not always better. You wouldn't buy a new size 55 suit if you only wear a size 33 .. even though it's the same price and yo get twice as much material in the size 55.

Well, I don't know about you, but I sure wouldn't.


----------



## vaoqeRG

I've been known to buy cloths a size too big, just in case









Ok, what if I told you the case will house a minimum of 3 video cards, blower-style (no SLI, its for rendering). Do you still think the Primo is too big?
At the end of the day, despite liking the design of Primo, if the Luxe is the better performer for my needs it would be daft not get it.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vaoqeRG*
> 
> I've been known to buy cloths a size too big, just in case
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok, what if I told you the case will house a minimum of 3 video cards, blower-style (no SLI, its for rendering). Do you still think the Primo is too big?
> At the end of the day, despite liking the design of Primo, if the Luxe is the better performer for my needs it would be daft not get it.


The Primo is a super case, but it is also very big and many of us who have had and used temp developed a love/hate ralationship with them .. that and lots of lower back pain from trying to move them around without caster bases.









To optimize the Primo's airflow the case need to be raised about 40 mm (33mm castors under a 9mm thick open center frame) and doing this means ti is 690mm tall .. too tall to fit under many desk tops .. and the top needs the same kind of clearance which makes it's working height in the 730+ mm range. Normal desktop height is 710-750mm .. and that's the top of desk, not the clearance under it. Desktops are 30-40mm thick. 690 + 30 = 710 mm .. meaning case faits, but no airflow clearance top of bottom for case to breath .. meaning case needs it's own independent piece of floor space.









Don't get me wrong, it's the best case I've ever used if I had all the room in the world to use it. It's just that many of us don't have Texas or Alaska or middle Atlantic kind of space for things. So I changed to the Enthoo Luxe and also an Enthoo Evolv ATX.









Am also playing with building a Enthoo Mini-XL DS >ove it's size but not really into dual system just yet.


----------



## Faster_is_better

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rikuo*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *jassilamba*
> 
> Negative on the 280 in the front along with a couple 480s in the case.
> 
> 
> 
> What all components are you thinking of cooling?
> 
> 
> 
> Yea, Didn't think I'd be able to
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 2x 1080's & a 6700k
> 
> Figured If i could fit the extra 280mm, Might as well
Click to expand...

2x 480s have a lot of cooling potential, you will be just fine.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vaoqeRG*
> 
> I've been known to buy cloths a size too big, just in case
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok, what if I told you the case will house a minimum of 3 video cards, blower-style (no SLI, its for rendering). Do you still think the Primo is too big?
> At the end of the day, despite liking the design of Primo, if the Luxe is the better performer for my needs it would be daft not get it.


Without watercooling (radiators in bottom and/or top) the Primo looks empty, so it's just wasted space both inside and outside of the case (physical dimensions).

Surely you can get better airflow through a Luxe/Pro and still have plenty of room? Yes/no/maybe? @doyll I'm just guessing since Luxe/Pro are more compact their should be less turbulence and you can direct airflow better but maybe that doesn't matter if you cram in a ton of fans for the Primo...


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Faster_is_better*
> 
> 2x 480s have a lot of cooling potential, you will be just fine.
> Without watercooling (radiators in bottom and/or top) the Primo looks empty, so it's just wasted space both inside and outside of the case (physical dimensions).
> 
> Surely you can get better airflow through a Luxe/Pro and still have plenty of room? Yes/no/maybe? @doyll I'm just guessing since Luxe/Pro are more compact their should be less turbulence and you can direct airflow better but maybe that doesn't matter if you cram in a ton of fans for the Primo...


I have to agree with you. The Primo with air cooling looks, well, pretty silly, actually. Mind you, it looks positively absurd with a CLC....

I've done builds in both the Primo and the Pro/Luxe, and the Pro/Luxe does not hurt for airflow in any way once you get that 200mm intake changed out. It's hard for me to compare the two since I only did liquid cooling in the Primo past the initial testing. For an aircooled build, I would go Luxe every time.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Faster_is_better*
> 
> Surely you can get better airflow through a Luxe/Pro and still have plenty of room? Yes/no/maybe? @doyll I'm just guessing since Luxe/Pro are more compact their should be less turbulence and you can direct airflow better but maybe that doesn't matter if you cram in a ton of fans for the Primo...


You are now treading on very think ice .. I can hear it cracking.








The misconceptions are clouding your understanding. Volume does not create turbulence, obstructions do.
Any time the airflow path is changed it creates turbulence.
The higher the air speed is, the smaller the obstruction need to be to case turbulence.

Or maybe I'm becoming too air-sensitive and misunderstanding your post.


----------



## Scoobydoobydoo

Dear Phantexans,

I posted a question regarding the fansetup on a silent Phanteks Eclipse P400s,, which maybe would better fit in this topic. If some would be so kind to help a fellow out.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1609829/fansetup-phanteks-p400s#post_25469112

Thx.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scoobydoobydoo*
> 
> Dear Phantexans,
> 
> I posted a question regarding the fansetup on a silent Phanteks Eclipse P400s,, which maybe would better fit in this topic. If some would be so kind to help a fellow out.
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1609829/fansetup-phanteks-p400s#post_25469112
> 
> Thx.


I don't have a P400 so have done not tested to see what will or won't supply cool air to the components. P400 is a budget model. While many of us have used the other cases and some of us have do quite a bit of experimenting with them, few of us have much interest in the P400.

I have used Nonoxia and Fractal design 'quiet' cases with and without sound dampening. My experience is sound dampened cases are not much if any quieter than same case without dampening. Panels (baffles) in front of fans and low restriction airflow, quiet components and good fans setup with automatic temp to speed control to match component fan demands and optimize airflow so components have cool air flowing to them while their heated exhaust flows outs out of case is what give us the best cooling and sound profile. You might find "Ways to Better Cooling link in my sig of interest. 1st post is index, click on topic to see it. 5th is a good place to start.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> I have to agree with you. The Primo with air cooling looks, well, pretty silly, actually. Mind you, it looks positively absurd with a CLC....
> 
> I've done builds in both the Primo and the Pro/Luxe, and the Pro/Luxe does not hurt for airflow in any way once you get that 200mm intake changed out. It's hard for me to compare the two since I only did liquid cooling in the Primo past the initial testing. For an aircooled build, I would go Luxe every time.


I have to agree with you too .. or is that you two too.


----------



## vaoqeRG

You have done it now. How dare you post well-reasoned thoughts as to why I should not get the massive case I never needed (but definitely wanted) and instead go for the practical option?









On a serious note, many thanks for all the replies. I think I will go with the Luxe. One last thing, I will be using an oversized motherboard (X99-e WS). Looking at the Luxe it seems I will lose some of the cable management space, would that be an issue for a first time builder?

Many thanks to you all.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vaoqeRG*
> 
> You have done it now. How dare you post well-reasoned thoughts as to why I should not get the massive case I never needed (but definitely wanted) and instead go for the practical option?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On a serious note, many thanks for all the replies. I think I will go with the Luxe. One last thing, I will be using an oversized motherboard (X99-e WS). Looking at the Luxe it seems I will lose some of the cable management space, would that be an issue for a first time builder?
> 
> Many thanks to you all.


Luxe has as much cable management as Pro. They are the same case with different front and top covers.








And they have plenty of cable management space. Some peeps get braided cable extensions in their choice of color and still get them all hidden.


----------



## Scoobydoobydoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> I don't have a P400 so have done not tested to see what will or won't supply cool air to the components. P400 is a budget model. While many of us have used the other cases and some of us have do quite a bit of experimenting with them, few of us have much interest in the P400.
> 
> I have used Nonoxia and Fractal design 'quiet' cases with and without sound dampening. My experience is sound dampened cases are not much if any quieter than same case without dampening. Panels (baffles) in front of fans and low restriction airflow, quiet components and good fans setup with automatic temp to speed control to match component fan demands and optimize airflow so components have cool air flowing to them while their heated exhaust flows outs out of case is what give us the best cooling and sound profile. You might find "Ways to Better Cooling link in my sig of interest. 1st post is index, click on topic to see it. 5th is a good place to start.
> I have to agree with you too .. or is that you two too.


Thank you for the links and your post, but both will probably not help me choose how to setup or control the fanspeeds in Phanteks cases. My future rig is probably quite similar to yours or anyone else who owns a Phanteks case. Your Phanteks cases probably had a Phanteks fancontroller that can control 3p fans with a PWM signal from the mobo (google said it did not work well, minimal of 10V or something), where afaik the Eclipse p400s has a knob (3 settings, high-mid-low) on top of the case. Although slightly different, you did have quite similar choices that I have today :

Choice A : 4p fans on PWM connector mobo;
Choice B : 3p fans to the Phanteks fancontroller;
Choice C : A mix of 3p, 4p and whatever.

All I want is a silent case like most people. If the 2 fansetups of Be-quiet (3p) and Scythe (4p) that i have selected have the same properties regarding maximum noiselevel and flow, is it wise to go for 3p fansetup from Be-Quiet (40 euro in total) and use the fancontroller from Phanteks to control my 5 fans. Or should i go for a 4p fansetup from Scythe (also 40 euro), all controlled by the mobo. My mobo has 3 pwm connections for casefans.

Edit: English is not my native language, apologies.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scoobydoobydoo*
> 
> Thank you for the links and your post, but both will probably not help me choose how to setup or control the fanspeeds in Phanteks cases. My future rig is probably quite similar to yours or anyone else who owns a Phanteks case. Your Phanteks cases probably had a Phanteks fancontroller that can control 3p fans with a PWM signal from the mobo (google said it did not work well, minimal of 10V or something), where afaik the Eclipse p400s has a knob (3 settings, high-mid-low) on top of the case. Although slightly different, you did have quite similar choices that I have today :
> Snip


Do you think that because someone owns a Ford, their Ford is similar to all other Fords? I own a 65' Ford half ton pickup with a 6 cylinder engine. I have a buddy who owns a new GT 40. They have very little in common and neither do our cases. The same thing applies to what is in them; my pickup hasn't got anything in it like the GT 40 does. Again, they have little in common, and neither do our case components.

I'm sorry, but I don't know how you should setup your system.


----------



## RnRollie

$ 0.02
While your MB might have 3 PWM headers, the question is if you are able to set 3 different fan profiles (one per header) or do they all link back to CPU temp?

For sake of simplicity... having ALL fans controlled by ONE controller/splitter is in most cases the best way to go...
When your CPU gets hotter.. ALL case fans ramp up, and if you have correctly set up (balanced) your intake & exhaust fans that is all there is to it.
Unless you are doyll and have half of your fans controlled by the GPU iso the CPU









In most cases the Phanteks PWM-TO-Voltage fanhub is all you need.


----------



## pez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stein619*
> 
> look what came today
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't know why it's only sold on the one place but the enthoo pro m tempered glass edition exists and it looks awesome. I can't wait to build me first system in it ?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneFunGenesis*
> 
> Well, I guess I'm calling phanteks and seeing if I can get a TG side panel for my case. The acrylic is just too soft


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *springs113*
> 
> i guess i will too but for info on the elite as there's nothing out there that entices me other than the primo but looks like it'll still limit me with what i want to really do, and since I've done basically splurged on this build why not go all the way out. If only the evolv atc tg edition could fit at least 3 360 rads.


Please update if and when you guys get a response back!


----------



## vaoqeRG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Luxe has as much cable management as Pro. They are the same case with different front and top covers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And they have plenty of cable management space. Some peeps get braided cable extensions in their choice of color and still get them all hidden.


Did you mean the Primo?

I was comparing cable management space left over after installing a CEB motherbaord like the X99-e WS on Luxe vs Primo.


----------



## Scoobydoobydoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Do you think that because someone owns a Ford, their Ford is similar to all other Fords? I own a 65' Ford half ton pickup with a 6 cylinder engine. I have a buddy who owns a new GT 40. They have very little in common and neither do our cases. The same thing applies to what is in them; my pickup hasn't got anything in it like the GT 40 does. Again, they have little in common, and neither do our case components.
> 
> I'm sorry, but I don't know how you should setup your system.


If someone has to apologize it is me.







My problem was that I did not know which part of the airflow-controls/setup gave me questions. So I needed some guidance formulating the questions better first and then answers later on (something like that, see below). Thanks again!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RnRollie*
> 
> $ 0.02
> While your MB might have 3 PWM headers, the question is if you are able to set 3 different fan profiles (one per header) or do they all link back to CPU temp?
> 
> For sake of simplicity... having ALL fans controlled by ONE controller/splitter is in most cases the best way to go...
> When your CPU gets hotter.. ALL case fans ramp up, and if you have correctly set up (balanced) your intake & exhaust fans that is all there is to it.
> Unless you are doyll and have half of your fans controlled by the GPU iso the CPU
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In most cases the Phanteks PWM-TO-Voltage fanhub is all you need.


Now I have the feeling that I am on the right track!







My mobo has got a hardware monitor in the bios and software to control fanspeeds based on casetemps and/or cpu temps. See 2 pages from manual below.

The button on the p400s case i.c.m. the fancontroller, that is where my confusion started. It has three settings (high-mid-low) which implies that the button overrides or alters the output of the pwm-signal from the mobo or the fancontroller is not the same fancontroller that is installed in more expensive phanteks cases like yours or fancontroller is the same but the button-input replaces the mobo's pwm signal connection. I like having a computer that can raise the rpm of casefans when temperatures reach a certain limit automatically, but i have doubts that the p400s fancontroller also grants the mobo the possibility to override the button-input. I hope this clarifies my initial questions.

- I rather connect 5 Scythe pwm-fans directly to the motherboard in a p400 (without fancontroller, button and soundproofing), if the mobo is not able to adjust the rpm of casefans through the fancontroller in the p400s case;
- If the mobo can adjust the rpm of fans through the fancontroller in the p400s case when the temperatures get to high, even when the button-input is on low, then i will go with 5 standard Be Quiet fans (3p fans & the p400s case, this is my preffered option if possible).

As you can see, how the fancontroller and the button interact, decides which fans I am going to buy but also which casemodel (p400 or the p400s).


Spoiler: Two pictures on manual







Edit/add 1 :

I found a review of the fancontroller. It states that it sucked back in 2015. When the pwm signal was 20%, the fans got 10.7V. This would mean that the fans always ran at speeds between 90% and 100%. Is this problem solved? If so, what voltage are the fans running at minimum now?

http://forums.vr-zone.com/hardware-depot/3167542-phanteks-pwm-fan-controller-hub-review.html

Edit/add 2 :

looking at a picture the fanhub, I highly doubt that the pwm signal can override the button-input. So, I will not go for a p400s with 3p fans, but the p400 with pwm fans.
Most people buy expensive fans with too much capacity and then need to reduce the noiselevels put out through a controller to make it more bearable. I however have selected fans based on maximum noiselevels, so controlling fans myself to improve silence should hopefully not be needed.

_
Explaining my questions about stuff I do not understand very well is not one of my strong suits.Thanks again for all your efforts and patience._


----------



## doyll

@Scoobydoobydoo
The Eclipse P400 does not have the PWM fan hub. It has a 3 position switch with one position full 12v and the other two at progressively lower voltage.

The Phanteks PWM fan hub is not a PWM fan hub at all, but a PWM _controlled_ variable voltage fan hub for 3-pin fans. It uses the PWM signal to vary the power to 3-pin variable voltage fans. It is not made for controlling PWM fans.

The small price difference between P400 / P400S and Enthoo Pro / Pro M case makes me wonder if it might be better to spend a few more dollars and get the Pro or Pro M case. Enthoo Pro an Enthoo Luxe use the same case with different front and top panels. Enthoo Pro M and Enthoo Evolv ATX use the same internal case with different panels.

Motherboard fan headers are typically rated to supply up to about 1 amp / 12 watt of power per header. I lower that by 15-20% for added safety to 0.8 amp / 9.6 watt. Most fans are rated 1-3 watt so we can almost always run 3x fans on a sinlge fan header. The exceptions to this are some of the high performance fans like TY-143 rated 0.60 amp, FHP141 rated 0.65 amp, Gentle Typhoon 2150 rated 0.63 amp, Gentle Typhoon 1850 rated 0.44 amp, etc. The problem is that some fans are rated at maximum power rating (like when starting up) while others are rated only at there normal running power rating which is about 1/4th of their strartup power rating. Sorry it's so complicated and confusing, but I think it's things you need to know.

Don't base your fan selection based on fan specifications. The specs are not accurate and are also not taken in normal use. the dB(A) and CFM readings are taken in a no load / no resistance open air environment .. nothing like being mounted in a case. In normal use they are much louder with much lower airflow. The static pressure rating is the maximum force the fan can push when air stops moving. Again this is not the way we use our fans. I suggest you look at a good fan reviewer's testing and evaluations .. someone like geggeg who has Thermalbench review site. His airflow to sound graphs are the airflow and sound fans make when mounted on a radiator. There are also rpm to sound and rpm to airflow graphs, but I like the sound to airflow graph because it give me an idea of sound level the fan makes when flowing a given amount of air. Geggeg uses FPM (Feet Per Minute) rather than CFM. CFM is the air speed times the area of airflow. This is very hard to accurately measure because the air moves at different speeds depending on where it is monitored, and if an airflow straightener is used it is restricting the airflow while straightening it .. and restricting the airflow to a specific size hole is restricting it as well. More variables involved means more possibility for error in results. Besides, the radiator does a pretty good job of straightening / balancing the airflow.









I think I've said enough to confuse you sufficiently for today.


----------



## Scoobydoobydoo

@doyll Thanks!!

Fanselection
I use the hardware.info roundups below. They test hundreds of 120mm and 140mm fans at: 12V+radiator, 7V, 7V+radiator, [email protected](A)+radiator. In their "comparison prices section" you can even compare fans and see the individual testresults from these tests, it is quite handy.

https://uk.hardware.info/reviews/6622/tested-71-case-fans-of-140-mm-round-up-big-fans
https://uk.hardware.info/reviews/5770/103-12cm-case-fans-review

I used "[email protected](A)+radiator test" to select fans that are inside a case like the Intake-fans in a p400. Fans on the outside of a case I selected from the "7V (no radiator) test", because I want them to be silent as possible because I can directly hear those going about (exhaust fans normally do not have dustfilters, so i chose to select it from the list without a radiator). By selecting fans in this way, I can choose the best fansetup for me. Most of the time Be-Quiet and Scythe are2 or 3 times cheaper then a fansetup from noctua or Noiseblockers. Although both brands have awesome fans and packaging, performance in most round-ups is nearly identical.

If I look at the hardware.info 120mm comparison table or their 140mm comparison table I can even find maximum powerdraw at 12V under these testconditions.

Exhaust fans = three 120mm Scythe Slip Stream 120 DB PWM = [email protected] each
Intake fans = two Scythe GlideStream 140mm = approx. [email protected] (this powerdraw i took from the slipstream 1200rpm pwm fan, if vertically mounted i prefer sleeve over ball bearings)

With 3 pwm headers on my mobo, I do not think any problems will occur, until proven otherwise ofcourse.

In general
What I like about 3p setups is that it is alot easier to select fans, because you can see how much noise they make under certain conditions in comparison to other fans (like in the roundsups above). If we use those fans at a fixed rpm, then we know prehand how much (or less) noise it will make. It should be (nearly) silent and you can basically not screw it up, noisewise. But the drawback is that noiselevel is not the same as the temperature of components. It is the automatic controls of fanspeeds when heat builds up, that I prefer, just to be safe. That is why i prefer pwm in this example of the p400(s) case.

Casechoices
The Enthoo Pro M Acrylic is a really nice case, but is 56 liters and costs 85 euro. I liked the 65 euro pricerange where atx cases are around 35 to 45 liters, the p400 and S340 are big competitors here (both have alot of descent reviews). But in multiple reviews I read that the window on the s340 gets scratched even when you wipe dust of it with some cloth and same goes for the painjob. The p400 does not have the same negative experiences mentioned, which indicates to me that the case should have a slightly higher quality finish and materials used. DANG!









I still like the p400s because it has some soundproofing, but having a button in sight which i can not use if I choose pwm fans is a bit "mister-bean-like". So, I will go with the p400 and if the noise from the harddisks is annoying me, then I will buy some industrial A-grade soundproofing (I do not believe that the quality of soundproofing in the p400s is A-grade quality for only 10 euro more). I think Phanteks p400 and the p400s are fine cases, probably "best bang for buck" around the 65/70 euro pricerange because of the higher quality of materials used, even better then the s340.

p400 and pwm fans it is!

Thanks everyone, my apologies for having problems explaining my doubts and questions in this topic. Thanks again!


----------



## doyll

@Scoobydoobydoo
I don't know how good uk.hardware.info is, but while testing 120mm fans on a 2 meter long 120mm tube with a bunch of drinking straws grouped in the middle may be good, using the same for 140mm fans is not. 120mm fans have an ID of cc 115 mm compared to 140mm fans with an ID of cc 137 mm. 120 mm ID tube. While the 113.04 sq cm of area 12 cm ID tube is more than 120 mm fan's 103.82 sq cm 109.5%), 140 mm fan's 147.34 sq cm aea is 130.34% bigger than their test tube. Sure, we can calculate the CFM just as they say, but we have no idea how much lower the pressure in because of the resistance. involved. This means there is no way we can compare their 120mm fan testing to 140mm fan testing. Also keep in mind their testing is pulling air into fan, not pushing air .. this creates negative pressure, not positive pressure.

At least with a radiator using adapter plates to mount either 120mm or 140mm fan for testing gives us the same resistance to airflow for both fans.

I've debated making a fan airflow test tube using 20-30cm tubing and decided against it. Accurately testing fans is way too complected to be taken lightly, and a proper fan test system is very, very, very expensive to build or buy.

And as I said before. how much noise the fans make moving the air needed to cool is more important to me than what their rpm is. I can hear the noise and feel the heat, but rpm is numbers on a screen.









Same can be said for the voltage and/or amperage the fan is using.

The sound coming out of our systems and the heat dissipated by the airflow (FPM airflow are what wel live with. RPM may cause noise, but it's the noise level at the airflow level we need to keep things cool that make the difference.

Also keep in mind dB / dB(A) are pressure wave readings, and while the do have meaning, the actual sound in frequency is what we hear. While a 33dB sound is a fixed sound pressure measurement, the actual sound we hear may be a pleasant hum or a very unpleasant high pitched screech. dB does not take how the sound feels or impacts us into account.

This is compounded by it being much eaiser to dampen higher frequencies than lower ones. We can hear a drum sound from a great distance, but a bird chirp of same dB is lost in a fraction of that distance.


----------



## madmeatballs

I have a question, I have the Enthoo pro M. Do I need to cover the unused slots on the radiator/fan bracket? I have 280mm rad installed to it.


----------



## Scoobydoobydoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> @Scoobydoobydoo
> I don't know how good uk.hardware.info is, but while testing 120mm fans on a 2 meter long 120mm tube with a bunch of drinking straws grouped in the middle may be good, using the same for 140mm fans is not. 120mm fans have an ID of cc 115 mm compared to 140mm fans with an ID of cc 137 mm. 120 mm ID tube. While the 113.04 sq cm of area 12 cm ID tube is more than 120 mm fan's 103.82 sq cm 109.5%), 140 mm fan's 147.34 sq cm aea is 130.34% bigger than their test tube. Sure, we can calculate the CFM just as they say, but we have no idea how much lower the pressure in because of the resistance. involved. This means there is no way we can compare their 120mm fan testing to 140mm fan testing. Also keep in mind their testing is pulling air into fan, not pushing air .. this creates negative pressure, not positive pressure.
> 
> At least with a radiator using adapter plates to mount either 120mm or 140mm fan for testing gives us the same resistance to airflow for both fans.
> 
> I've debated making a fan airflow test tube using 20-30cm tubing and decided against it. Accurately testing fans is way too complected to be taken lightly, and a proper fan test system is very, very, very expensive to build or buy.
> 
> And as I said before. how much noise the fans make moving the air needed to cool is more important to me than what their rpm is. I can hear the noise and feel the heat, but rpm is numbers on a screen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Same can be said for the voltage and/or amperage the fan is using.
> 
> The sound coming out of our systems and the heat dissipated by the airflow (FPM airflow are what wel live with. RPM may cause noise, but it's the noise level at the airflow level we need to keep things cool that make the difference.
> 
> Also keep in mind dB / dB(A) are pressure wave readings, and while the do have meaning, the actual sound in frequency is what we hear. While a 33dB sound is a fixed sound pressure measurement, the actual sound we hear may be a pleasant hum or a very unpleasant high pitched screech. dB does not take how the sound feels or impacts us into account.
> 
> This is compounded by it being much eaiser to dampen higher frequencies than lower ones. We can hear a drum sound from a great distance, but a bird chirp of same dB is lost in a fraction of that distance.


All true, but atleast all the fans were tested under the same conditions. It is a nice tool to help people compare fans under similar conditions, instead of just guessing or choosing based on rumours.


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *madmeatballs*
> 
> I have a question, I have the Enthoo pro M. Do I need to cover the unused slots on the radiator/fan bracket? I have 280mm rad installed to it.


That is for people with the Evolv ATX, with the restrictive top case exhaust vents if you don't block the slots around the radiator you get hot air blown down into the case. With the regular vent design of the Pro M I can't imagine that would be a problem.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scoobydoobydoo*
> 
> All true, but atleast all the fans were tested under the same conditions. It is a nice tool to help people compare fans under similar conditions, instead of just guessing or choosing based on rumours.


Which was why I suggest Thermalbench fan review .. because we can compare 120mm fans to 140mm fans.


----------



## Avant Garde

Phanteks Evolv ATX Tempered Glass Silver is NOT AVAILABLE in Europe! How is that possible for a PC case with that price tag of 200€???? Wow....


----------



## Chiobe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Avant Garde*
> 
> Phanteks Evolv ATX Tempered Glass Silver is NOT AVAILABLE in Europe! How is that possible for a PC case with that price tag of 200€???? Wow....


05.10.16 is the date Caseking.de gets it.
So guess its not released yet?


----------



## redshoulder

It was released just that its the most popular colour so its out of stock however there is still some available from third party sellers on amazon.de.


----------



## Kyouki

Teaser shot,while I load windows!





Enjoy!


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kyouki*
> 
> Teaser shot,while I load windows!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Enjoy!


that white looks great with the blue lighting


----------



## Kyouki

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> that white looks great with the blue lighting


Thank you, that was the default lighting that came up on boot, once i install the Asus RGB software should be able to have some fun


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kyouki*
> 
> Teaser shot,while I load windows!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Enjoy!


That bottom panel really adds a lot to the build.


----------



## Kyouki

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> That bottom panel really adds a lot to the build.


I agree and was not to hard to make. I am happy how it turned out!


----------



## Scoobydoobydoo

I'd call that the johnny bravo rig, that's how good it looks!


----------



## kevininsimi

Hey Phantek folks,

I've had the Silverstone FT-02 for the past five years and am looking to do a full upgrade here in a couple months. Pretty much narrowed my next case to either the Primo or the Luxe. I'm kind of a stickler on build quality and would gladly pay a premium for better materials. Has anyone used the FT-02 in the past and are able to compare the cases in terms of build quality, cooling, and cable management? Granted, cable management from what I've read so far is no comparison--do both the Luxe and the Primo do a good job at hiding cables? Do you guys think the Primo would be a bit overkill if I don't do water cooling?

Thanks!


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevininsimi*
> 
> Hey Phantek folks,
> 
> I've had the Silverstone FT-02 for the past five years and am looking to do a full upgrade here in a couple months. Pretty much narrowed my next case to either the Primo or the Luxe. I'm kind of a stickler on build quality and would gladly pay a premium for better materials. Has anyone used the FT-02 in the past and are able to compare the cases in terms of build quality, cooling, and cable management? Granted, cable management from what I've read so far is no comparison--do both the Luxe and the Primo do a good job at hiding cables? Do you guys think the Primo would be a bit overkill if I don't do water cooling?
> 
> Thanks!


I have used a few Silverstone cases in the past, and Phanteks is one of very few brands that are comparable in build quality. The Phanteks is also a far easier case to build in, since the Silverstones can be a bit overengineered, and the Phanteks cases will be easier to get ample airflow in. The Luxe and Primo both have ample room for cable management, no worries there. But, be forewarned, if you are not going to be doing a very large loop, the Primo winds up looking very empty.


----------



## kevininsimi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> I have used a few Silverstone cases in the past, and Phanteks is one of very few brands that are comparable in build quality. The Phanteks is also a far easier case to build in, since the Silverstones can be a bit overengineered, and the Phanteks cases will be easier to get ample airflow in. The Luxe and Primo both have ample room for cable management, no worries there. But, be forewarned, if you are not going to be doing a very large loop, the Primo winds up looking very empty.


Good point with the Primo, I've noticed that myself just by looking at pictures of the case. I do like the aesthetics though. Decisions... may have to go with the Luxe. Thanks for the info!


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevininsimi*
> 
> Good point with the Primo, I've noticed that myself just by looking at pictures of the case. I do like the aesthetics though. Decisions... may have to go with the Luxe. Thanks for the info!


the primo is huge compared to the luxe the dimensions really dont do it justice...it sounds larger but it looks even more so...i saw a picture online when i was thinking of buying mine it had a 760 gtx video card and a hyper 212 cpu cooler...it looked like two more builds couldve fit lol


----------



## jassilamba

So I decided to change the color on my Silver Evolv to Black....



Gonna attack the feet tomorrow.


----------



## zsmester

I like this case


----------



## Avant Garde

Cable management is simply superb! Can you post more pics about that?


----------



## kevininsimi

Just read about the new tempered glass lux. Anyone know when it'll be out? Not sure if I should wait for that or buy one now? All these decisions are killing me! lol.


----------



## KaptainK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> @Scoobydoobydoo
> The Eclipse P400 does not have the PWM fan hub. It has a 3 position switch with one position full 12v and the other two at progressively lower voltage.
> The Phanteks PWM fan hub is not a PWM fan hub at all, but a PWM _controlled_ variable voltage fan hub for 3-pin fans. It uses the PWM signal to vary the power to 3-pin variable voltage fans. It is not made for controlling PWM fans.


Does the Evolv mATX fan hub work the same way ?
(I was planning to connect pwm eloop on it)


----------



## michael-ocn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaptainK*
> 
> Does the Evolv mATX fan hub work the same way ?
> (I was planning to connect pwm eloop on it)


Yes, afaik the phanteks hub that comes with all case models (that come with a hub) is designed for non-pwm 3pin fans. It uses the pwm signal from the mobo, and then voltage regulates the fans based on that input.

If you want a hub that distributes the pwm signal to true pwm 4pin fans, you want something like this one from swiftech.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA85V3N90439&nm_mc=KNC-GoogleMKP-PC&cm_mmc=KNC-GoogleMKP-PC-_-pla-_-Cables+-+Power+Splitter+Cords-_-9SIA85V3N90439&gclid=CjwKEAjwl4q-BRDtzJmSk-uGunkSJACmCOY-0wIpuxKwoae4R2qQh4r9-68Lxj51hJANQZr5U7H0WxoCx0Xw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaptainK*
> 
> Does the Evolv mATX fan hub work the same way ?
> (I was planning to connect pwm eloop on it)


What michael-ocn said.

There are other lower priced PWM hubs and splitters that using motherboard PWM signal and PSU power that cost less than Swiftech do. Phobya PWM 8x 4Pin Splitter hub, SilverStone PWM Fan Hub (CPF04), Gelid 1 to 4 PWM Fan Splitter, etc.


----------



## KaptainK

Thank you both , I did not particularly need a PWM hub, so I'll go with non-PWM eloop for my custom loop


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jassilamba*
> 
> So I decided to change the color on my Silver Evolv to Black....
> 
> 
> 
> Gonna attack the feet tomorrow.


You should consider getting some backplate. V1Tech makes some nice ones.


----------



## jassilamba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> You should consider getting some backplate. V1Tech makes some nice ones.


I know, I have www.munkymods.com making me some custom ones. Still trying to finalize a design LED placement for backlighting.


----------



## ChaosAD

Im considering to move to Enthoo Evolv ATX Glass. This is the fisrt case i fell in love with after my TJ07. I am considering to go with HWL GTS 360 XFlow with 3xVardar 1850rpm for the top and a GTS 280 XFlow with 2x140mm fans that come with the case. Do you think these rads will fit nice in the case?


----------



## jassilamba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ChaosAD*
> 
> Im considering to move to Enthoo Evolv ATX Glass. This is the fisrt case i fell in love with after my TJ07. I am considering to go with HWL GTS 360 XFlow with 3xVardar 1850rpm for the top and a GTS 280 XFlow with 2x140mm fans that come with the case. Do you think these rads will fit nice in the case?


They should fit, you will lose the HDD area in the bottom, and you might have to switch to a 120mm fan in the back instead of the factory 140mm. Any specific reason for the XFlow rads?


----------



## ChaosAD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jassilamba*
> 
> They should fit, you will lose the HDD area in the bottom, and you might have to switch to a 120mm fan in the back instead of the factory 140mm. Any specific reason for the XFlow rads?


1) I thought that you lose the HDD case only if you put a triple rad in the front. You lose it with any rad? Any space to fit a single HDD without it?
2) So i can also get a thicker one for the front mount you think? Like 45mm or 60mm push only?
3) 140mm fan at the back doesnt fit due to 360 rad?
4) I chose xflow rads specifically for how i want the tube routing.


----------



## jassilamba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ChaosAD*
> 
> 1) I thought that you lose the HDD case only if you put a triple rad in the front. You lose it with any rad? Any space to fit a single HDD without it?
> 2) So i can also get a thicker one for the front mount you think? Like 45mm or 60mm push only?
> 3) 140mm fan at the back doesnt fit due to 360 rad?
> 4) I chose xflow rads specifically for how i want the tube routing.


1 - The reason I say that is because you are doing a 360 in the top, and a 280 in the front and that to with the XFlows. Those radiators tend be longer than your normal radiators in the market and will require more room than normal.
2 - Depending on what GPUs ur using and where you plan on mounting ur reservoir a thick radiator can be an issue. If you on have a single GPU, you can mount your reservoir on the rear mount and have a thicker radiator in the front.
3 - MIght be an issue if you run a 360 XFlow and a radiator in the front (if not it might hit the fan in the back) A Single 360 on the top is not an issue.


----------



## michael-ocn

I havent' seen (m)any people do this, but if there's not enough space to mount a rear fan inside the case, seems like you could always mount it on the outside of the case if it was really needed.


----------



## sav4

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kyouki*
> 
> Teaser shot,while I load windows!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Enjoy!


That's a really nice build there. Well done


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kyouki*
> 
> Teaser shot,while I load windows!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Enjoy!


You know the best thing about this build? Ambient light in exaclty the right places! Not flooding the entire system and causing harsh glares and reflections. Looking at it makes you feel calm and relaxed. Nicely done, hope I can do lighting like that in my next build.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *michael-ocn*
> 
> I havent' seen (m)any people do this, but if there's not enough space to mount a rear fan inside the case, seems like you could always mount it on the outside of the case if it was really needed.


/\ /\ /\ this - - or this \/ \/ \/
Or just not worry about exhaust fans. The back of Pro is basically one big vent, and airflow is air displacement. What flows into case must flow out to allow more air to flow in. As long as intake fans are up to the job (on radiators or not) exhaust fan are often not needed.

Case intake and exhaust fans serve the same basic principle as push / pull fans on a radiator.


----------



## Kyouki

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sav4*
> 
> That's a really nice build there. Well done


Thank you!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> You know the best thing about this build? Ambient light in exaclty the right places! Not flooding the entire system and causing harsh glares and reflections. Looking at it makes you feel calm and relaxed. Nicely done, hope I can do lighting like that in my next build.


Thank you, I might have to draw up a picture to better explain this. I used the Phanteks 2m LED strip and ran it to my ASUS MB for RGB. so to get the lighting effect I started the LED strip at the top-front-right side of the case ran it down to the bottom-front of case then up the back-front of the case then the cool part that really give the effect of light on the motherboard is I ran the rest along back edge then behind the top radiator facing down on the mother board then down behind the pump/res to get that back-lite glow effect behind the reservoir. I had the perfect amount with 2m of LEDs. The only thing I am noticing with it plugged into the Asus motherboard I am not getting the full range of RGB that the board is getting, but I am getting most of the colors so not a huge deal.


----------



## statyksyn

just joining up love this itx case! Building my Daughters next! Will post!


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *statyksyn*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> just joining up love this itx case! Building my Daughters next! Will post!


Nice job, what do you have in it?


----------



## statyksyn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rfarmer*
> 
> Nice job, what do you have in it?


Thanks! It's got an i5 4690k and an asus 970 strix, I haven't over clocked them yet just still really impressed with the temp drops by just adding a loop


----------



## MountainDewMadOScar

Thinking about buying the Tempered Glass Enthoo Pro M for the Glass side panel, apparently they only sell them in Australia atm?

https://www.pccasegear.com/products/36366/phanteks-enthoo-pro-m-tempered-glass-edition


----------



## sif0x7

Hey guys, I have been following this thread for a long time and I'm very admired of Phanteks products and your builds.








I'm gonna get a Enthoo Pro M Arcylic soon.
I'm currently having a slim 240 radiator that I want to put it in the front without taking out the midplate. Is that possible?
If it is then which is the thickest radiator (240 or 360?) I can put in the top?
Please enlightening me a bit!


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sif0x7*
> 
> Hey guys, I have been following this thread for a long time and I'm very admired of Phanteks products and your builds.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm gonna get a Enthoo Pro M Arcylic soon.
> I'm currently having a slim 240 radiator that I want to put it in the front without taking out the midplate. Is that possible?
> If it is then which is the thickest radiator (240 or 360?) I can put in the top?
> Please enlightening me a bit!


You can do a 280mm up top with a 240 in the front. A 360 will not fit without removing the mid plate.


----------



## OneFunGenesis

You can also put a 360 up top too


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneFunGenesis*
> 
> You can also put a 360 up top too


Not with a 240mm in the front with the midplate still in. _Maybe_ you could do it with an EK 360SE (but I still don't believe so)....but what's the point in that? The 360SE can't dissipate as much heat as a good 240mm (never mind a good 280mm), it's a joke of a radiator.


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sif0x7*
> 
> Hey guys, I have been following this thread for a long time and I'm very admired of Phanteks products and your builds.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm gonna get a Enthoo Pro M Arcylic soon.
> I'm currently having a slim 240 radiator that I want to put it in the front without taking out the midplate. Is that possible?
> If it is then which is the thickest radiator (240 or 360?) I can put in the top?
> Please enlightening me a bit!


slim options there. any slim 240 rad under 278 mm long will _just_ fit with a 360 rad no more than 29 mm thick up top (and 25 mm fans of course). you could also mount the 360 all the way to the rear of the case, giving up the rear fan mount, which frees up clearance in the front.


----------



## OneFunGenesis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Not with a 240mm in the front with the midplate still in. _Maybe_ you could do it with an EK 360SE (but I still don't believe so)....but what's the point in that? The 360SE can't dissipate as much heat as a good 240mm (never mind a good 280mm), it's a joke of a radiator.


Good call, forgot about that lol


----------



## AyyMD

I really need help deciding on a new case, I had it narrowed down to three, but that's gone up now.

My choices are:


Phanteks Enthoo Pro M Acrylic
Phanteks Eclipse P400/S
Phanteks Enthoo EVOLV ATX Glass (if I save up money / sell my extra hardware)
NZXT S340
Fractal Design Define R5

I'm open to other suggestions.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AyyMD*
> 
> I really need help deciding on a new case, I had it narrowed down to three, but that's gone up now.
> 
> My choices are:
> 
> 
> Phanteks Enthoo Pro M Acrylic
> Phanteks Eclipse P400/S
> Phanteks Enthoo EVOLV ATX Glass (if I save up money / sell my extra hardware)
> NZXT S340
> Fractal Design Define R5
> 
> I'm open to other suggestions.


What you are planning on doing inside of the case will have a lot of influence on the decision. You may want to list out your intended build for some more accurate answers.


----------



## AyyMD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> What you are planning on doing inside of the case will have a lot of influence on the decision. You may want to list out your intended build for some more accurate answers.


Whoops, sorry. I already own an entire build. Here's a link.


----------



## SastusBulbas

Hi all,

I currently run a Phanteks Enthoo Mini XL, but I am finding the fans a little noisy, they are connected to the fan header, that is connected to my CPU OPT fan header, that sits next to the CPU fan header on my Asus Maximus VI Z87 Gene, so I am sure PWM, not had any issues bar a bit noiier than I like.

They are by no means the worst, but clearly the loudest noise in my PC, as my cooler is a Noctua and the GPU a rather quiet EVGA.

I guess I am asking what quieter fans may be recommended over the stock three 140mm case fans suplied? I sit rather near the case also.

Also tempted to watercool the PC, simple 360 in the roof on the CPU to start if it will be quieter and cooler. Thinking EK pump/res combo in floor where HDD bays are, with EK block and EK-CoolStream XE radiator. Wondering what the quietest fans for that would be too?

4770K
Asus Gene VI
Noctua NH-U12S
Patriot Viper 2400MHz 8GB
Samsung 840 Pro 250gb
SanDisk Ultra II 960gb
HGST 4tb
EVGA GTX 1070 FTW
Phanteks Mini XL
Seasonic X-650


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AyyMD*
> 
> Whoops, sorry. I already own an entire build. Here's a link.


Says the build has been removed.

The way I look at it is:

Get the Pro M if you want to balance appearance, functionality, and price

Get the Evolv ATX TG if you want dat sex appeal and don't mind paying for it (also don't mind a little more air restriction vs Pro M and Define R5)

Get the Define R5 if you just want a nice, average price, black box with lots of room to build in.

Forget the rest.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HipToBuckFees*
> 
> All I can say is **** those PCPartPicker admins.
> 
> Updated.


NP! I would go with the Pro M. I personally do not like the NZXT. Sure it has a nice price, but it is a bad long term investment. The P400 is also cheap, but it is also cheap. The Define R5 is a great case. I had the R4 and the R5 is better in just about every way. The Evolv ATX TG would be a terrific investment that you would likely keep for a long long time. With that said, it is very expensive and it's cost could be put elsewhere in your build. IMO the Pro M is the best middle ground between looks, price, functionality and long term viability.


----------



## HipToBuckFees

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> Says the build has been removed.


All I can say is **** those PCPartPicker admins.

Updated.


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HipToBuckFees*
> 
> All I can say is **** those PCPartPicker admins.
> 
> Updated.


I updated my reply.


----------



## HipToBuckFees

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> I updated my reply.


I saw, I may just go with the Enthoo Pro M Acrylic.


----------



## Rikuo

Finished swapping my build from a Corsair 750d -> Enthoo Primo.

Still a few small things I need to tweak, But overall I like the way it came out.


----------



## TheRoyalDuck

I have a p400. I had issues with the front panel being misshapen and the plastic in the side window having a large patch of discoloration within the plastic but the cool support team is sending me new ones. Hopefully they dont have these issues.

Btw if you mount a rad in the front I recommend cutting a plastic sheet so that it covers the cutouts around the fans, otherwise the air will circulate in circles around the rad and the actual exchange with the outside will be very limited.


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rikuo*
> 
> 
> 
> Finished swapping my build from a Corsair 750d -> Enthoo Primo.
> 
> Still a few small things I need to tweak, But overall I like the way it came out.


Looks nice. I have carbon fiber vinyl on my build as well. I bet it knocked off about 10 pounds.


----------



## Rikuo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> Looks nice. I have carbon fiber vinyl on my build as well. I bet it knocked off about 10 pounds.


Yea, It's just a little too much red without it.

I should throw the PC on a scale.. Curious how much it actually weighs. Feels like 100lbs+


----------



## dmfree88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HipToBuckFees*
> 
> I saw, I may just go with the Enthoo Pro M Acrylic.


might consider waiting for the tempered glass. Someone posted they found one already not sure if its available anywhere yet but it probably looks better.


----------



## kevininsimi

Hey guys,

New build... first time using a Phanteks case. Overall I'm quite happy with how it turned out. Pictures to follow were taken with my phone so I apologize for the poor quality.





You see how ugly the 8/6 pin PCI cables look coming out of the graphics card? Any tips as to how I can organize that better?

Harambe this one is for you fam.


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevininsimi*
> 
> Hey guys,
> 
> New build... first time using a Phanteks case. Overall I'm quite happy with how it turned out. Pictures to follow were taken with my phone so I apologize for the poor quality.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You see how ugly the 8/6 pin PCI cables look coming out of the graphics card? Any tips as to how I can organize that better?


Very nice. Add for the cables, you should pick up some white cable combs.


----------



## kevininsimi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> Very nice. Add for the cables, you should pick up some white cable combs.


The sleeves came with a set of them, I placed them on the cables but perhaps I need more? I used the Phanteks set of black/white cables extensions. Will any set of combs work?

Oh, my motherboard only has one USB2 header (lame)... so I couldn't find a place to plug in the front USB 2.0 ports. The header is being taken up by the H115i. Any way around this?

Thanks!


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SastusBulbas*
> 
> Hi all,
> 
> I currently run a Phanteks Enthoo Mini XL, but I am finding the fans a little noisy, they are connected to the fan header, that is connected to my CPU OPT fan header, that sits next to the CPU fan header on my Asus Maximus VI Z87 Gene, so I am sure PWM, not had any issues bar a bit noiier than I like.
> 
> They are by no means the worst, but clearly the loudest noise in my PC, as my cooler is a Noctua and the GPU a rather quiet EVGA.
> 
> I guess I am asking what quieter fans may be recommended over the stock three 140mm case fans suplied? I sit rather near the case also.
> 
> Also tempted to watercool the PC, simple 360 in the roof on the CPU to start if it will be quieter and cooler. Thinking EK pump/res combo in floor where HDD bays are, with EK block and EK-CoolStream XE radiator. Wondering what the quietest fans for that would be too?
> 
> 4770K
> Asus Gene VI
> Noctua NH-U12S
> Patriot Viper 2400MHz 8GB
> Samsung 840 Pro 250gb
> SanDisk Ultra II 960gb
> HGST 4tb
> EVGA GTX 1070 FTW
> Phanteks Mini XL
> Seasonic X-650


What speed are the fans running? At full speed they are definitely not quiet, but with the fan hub hooked up properly and temp to rpm curve adjusted they should be running about 700-800rpm, and at this speed they are quiet.


----------



## tblake

Just ordered an Enthoo Evolv ATX Tempered Glass in Anthracite. Any tips on how to install an EK Predator 360 push-pull in the front mount position? Looks like a really tight fit but there are several pics out there from people that have done it. I assume you can't drop it in from the top due to the steel frame. Do you position it from within the case by levering it into the opening created by removal of the midplate? Would love to hear from someone who has done the install on how it was accomplished. Thanks!


----------



## TeslaHUN

You dont need psuh-pull for a 45mm thick radiator, the 3 Vardar fan will be more then enough in push or pull









SastusBulbas
If u want replace the Phanteks 14cm fans (yes they are loud , i sold my phanteks fans too ) ,and want quiet PC use these TY147A. The most quiet fans i ever tested , but still decent airflow.


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevininsimi*
> 
> The sleeves came with a set of them, I placed them on the cables but perhaps I need more? I used the Phanteks set of black/white cables extensions. Will any set of combs work?
> 
> Oh, my motherboard only has one USB2 header (lame)... so I couldn't find a place to plug in the front USB 2.0 ports. The header is being taken up by the H115i. Any way around this?
> 
> Thanks!


You could use something like this. https://www.amazon.com/NZXT-IU01-Internal-Expansion-Black/dp/B0031ESKJA/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1434337222&sr=1-1&keywords=internal%20usb%202.0%20expansion&tag=viglink20237-20
or http://www.moddiy.com/products/9%252dPin-USB-Internal-Header-Y-Splitter-Cable-%252b-Molex-Powered-%285cm%29.html
or http://www.moddiy.com/products/10%252dPin-USB%7B47%7DAC97%7B47%7DHD%252dAudio-Internal-Header-Y-Splitter-Cable-(5cm).html?gclid=Cj0KEQjwo5--BRCS8ceLjv-XppUBEiQAGp15EAIiAWervHuYhN-4QQNdx9CvOWyZzZnC69BRsT7TrEgaAuQu8P8HAQ


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TeslaHUN*
> 
> You dont need psuh-pull for a 45mm thick radiator, the 3 Vardar fan will be more then enough in push or pull
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> SastusBulbas
> If u want replace the Phanteks 14cm fans (yes they are loud , i sold my phanteks fans too ) ,and want quiet PC use these TY147A. The most quiet fans i ever tested , but still decent airflow.


I agree about radiator fan.

I've been pushing Thermalright TY-14x series fans from the time they came out. They are one of the very best sound profile and airflow there is on this Earth. While the TY-147A is slightly quieter than PH-F140SP, at similar airflow their sound levels are also very similar .. and the slight difference is not worth the cost of replacing. My guess is if your PH-F140SP were too loud you were not running them at as low a speed as your run your TY-147 fans. Don't take me wrong, the TY-147A is a fantastic fan.









I'll bet I have more TY-14x series fans than any other half-sane person on Earth has .. and yes, I I'm only half sane.







I have tested TY-147A and TY-147A SQ against PH-f140SP in my Primo, Luxe and EVolv ATX and the difference are almost none-existent .. so little I ended up with PH-F140SP in my Primo, TY-147A in Luxe (system running on my right) and TY-143 SQ in Evolv ATX (system on my left) I will definitely keep the TY-143SQ in Evolv because it is a very high load/heat system and case is a little on the restrictive side .. just wish they were black or black/white. I will never bother to change the Primo back to TY-14x or Luxe back to PH-F140SP simply because the differences are not worth the effort.


----------



## Risley

Here's a simple question. I want the Enthoo Pro M with the tempered glass. This technically doesnt exist yet but has been shown at the Computex 2016. Right now I can buy the Pro M with the acrylic window, and Phanteks does sell replacements if the window gets scratched, as acrylic is known to get easily scratched, even from a microfiber cloth. So if the tempered glass version comes out and it is literally the same design, but just with the glass, do you guys think I would be able to simply buy the window to "upgrade" my tower? Frankly Im tired of waiting on Phanteks to release this, and I'd rather spend the 100 bucks difference between the Prom M and the Evolv TG on getting the i7 6700K over the i5 6600K.

_Discuss..._


----------



## pez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Risley*
> 
> Here's a simple question. I want the Enthoo Pro M with the tempered glass. This technically doesnt exist yet but has been shown at the Computex 2016. Right now I can buy the Pro M with the acrylic window, and Phanteks does sell replacements if the window gets scratched, as acrylic is known to get easily scratched, even from a microfiber cloth. So if the tempered glass version comes out and it is literally the same design, but just with the glass, do you guys think I would be able to simply buy the window to "upgrade" my tower? Frankly Im tired of waiting on Phanteks to release this, and I'd rather spend the 100 bucks difference between the Prom M and the Evolv TG on getting the i7 6700K over the i5 6600K.
> 
> _Discuss..._


I emailed their support about this during Computex and they said it would be a direct fit and they would offer the window as an extra to buy once it's been out a few weeks. They were unable to give me a concrete US release, though.


----------



## Risley

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pez*
> 
> I emailed their support about this during Computex and they said it would be a direct fit and they would offer the window as an extra to buy once it's been out a few weeks. They were unable to give me a concrete US release, though.


Perfect! Lord knows whats taken them so long to release this version.


----------



## statyksyn

Looking for a lil help if anybodys up for it. The evolv itx i mounted one 240 rad in the front and both components are liquid cooled, temps are great under stress untill i over clock and my cpu spikes. My question is has anybody here done a radiator on top? Does it get enough air flow with those little slits?


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *statyksyn*
> 
> Looking for a lil help if anybodys up for it. The evolv itx i mounted one 240 rad in the front and both components are liquid cooled, temps are great under stress untill i over clock and my cpu spikes. My question is has anybody here done a radiator on top? Does it get enough air flow with those little slits?


The top is pretty restrictive, as is with all Evolv cases. If you rest the top on the clips and don't push it down all the way, that helps a bit.


----------



## statyksyn

I figured i would hear that lol, i may try my hand at getting a 240mm fancy grill and cutting into the top and putting the grill over the top of the cut.....thanks for the input! Ill day dream something up to solve it


----------



## kevininsimi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rfarmer*
> 
> You could use something like this. https://www.amazon.com/NZXT-IU01-Internal-Expansion-Black/dp/B0031ESKJA/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1434337222&sr=1-1&keywords=internal%20usb%202.0%20expansion&tag=viglink20237-20
> or http://www.moddiy.com/products/9%252dPin-USB-Internal-Header-Y-Splitter-Cable-%252b-Molex-Powered-%285cm%29.html
> or http://www.moddiy.com/products/10%252dPin-USB%7B47%7DAC97%7B47%7DHD%252dAudio-Internal-Header-Y-Splitter-Cable-(5cm).html?gclid=Cj0KEQjwo5--BRCS8ceLjv-XppUBEiQAGp15EAIiAWervHuYhN-4QQNdx9CvOWyZzZnC69BRsT7TrEgaAuQu8P8HAQ


Oh that's sweet! Thanks so much, I'll look into them!


----------



## Faster_is_better

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rikuo*
> 
> 
> 
> Finished swapping my build from a Corsair 750d -> Enthoo Primo.
> 
> Still a few small things I need to tweak, But overall I like the way it came out.


Any other pics? Looks good.

It's definitely not 100+ lbs but when you fill them up with W/C gear they feel like it...


----------



## Rikuo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Faster_is_better*
> 
> Any other pics? Looks good.
> 
> It's definitely not 100+ lbs but when you fill them up with W/C gear they feel like it...


Didn't take much pics yet, Still got to fix a few things here & there.

Got this pic though with the side off, When i was leak testing.


----------



## Risley

So I still cant decide between the Enthoo Pro M Acrylic versus the Enthoo Evolv Tempered Glass. What's holding me back from the Pro M is the fact that the intake filter in the front doesnt block dust coming in from the vents on the sides. I dont see why they designed it like this. For people that have this case, do you encounter a lot of dust build up? What about dust with the Evolv? Is it much better?

And in general, what benefits do you get with the Evolv over the Pro M? I can watch videos and all but I want to know from owners of the Evolv why they chose that case over the others.


----------



## PetrasSukys

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rikuo*
> 
> Didn't take much pics yet, Still got to fix a few things here & there.
> 
> Got this pic though with the side off, When i was leak testing.
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I had some second thoughts about spending lots of money and doing similar build like this. THANK YOU for making up my mind and I am definetely doing it. Can't wait for more pictures from you. Where was my drawing board. Time for build planning....


----------



## OneFunGenesis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Risley*
> 
> So I still cant decide between the Enthoo Pro M Acrylic versus the Enthoo Evolv Tempered Glass. What's holding me back from the Pro M is the fact that the intake filter in the front doesnt block dust coming in from the vents on the sides. I dont see why they designed it like this. For people that have this case, do you encounter a lot of dust build up?


They actually fixed this problem. I had a post a few pages back showing that the sides are now filtered, so there will be minimal dust intake. IMHO, to pay $100 more for a case that strangles air flow and is bat ***** heavy is not the greatest use of resources. That is just my thoughts though.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneFunGenesis*
> 
> They actually fixed this problem. I had a post a few pages back showing that the sides are now filtered, so there will be minimal dust intake. IMHO, to pay $100 more for a case that strangles air flow and is bat ***** heavy is not the greatest use of resources. That is just my thoughts though.


You know that the Evolv is only heavier due to the glass, and that you likely wouldn't be lifting it with the glass on.....and that if you bother to take ten minutes to set it up the airflow is at least average, right?


----------



## Kyouki

I chose the Evolv with Glass based on looks alone, I knew when picking this case it would struggle a little with air flow. The case it self is made really good and can handle some really good builds in it. As for weight unless you have a desk that about to fall over who cares about weight on an ATX system. I think after mine was full built and water in it , it felt like 80lb LOL.... Back to the only thing to really think about is the airflow, this case does struggle. After I finished my build and did some testing I was getting some high temps. With some help from others in the forums and changing some fans around I was able to drop the temps over 15c so this case can perform with a good airflow set up. One thing though if your are stress testing or playing a high stress game you can take the front panel off it only takes 2 sec. and temps drop about another 5c, taking the top off I found only to change temps 1c if that. you can follow my build and latest post in my thread showing the temp issue I was having and how I am solving them. http://www.overclock.net/t/1607002/


----------



## Faster_is_better

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rikuo*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Faster_is_better*
> 
> Any other pics? Looks good.
> 
> It's definitely not 100+ lbs but when you fill them up with W/C gear they feel like it...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Didn't take much pics yet, Still got to fix a few things here & there.
> 
> Got this pic though with the side off, When i was leak testing.
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
Click to expand...

I was trying to see how you ran your tubing behind the reservoir bracket


----------



## Rikuo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Faster_is_better*
> 
> I was trying to see how you ran your tubing behind the reservoir bracket


Well I have a confession to make.

Not very well









The rad made the angle kind of odd, So i actually had to 90 off the res, then bring it through the lowest HDD slot in the HDD cage, Then straight into the Rad >_<

But at least you cant see it! lol


----------



## OneFunGenesis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> You know that the Evolv is only heavier due to the glass, and that you likely wouldn't be lifting it with the glass on.....and that if you bother to take ten minutes to set it up the airflow is at least average, right?


You know the Evolv is heavier because it's made of aluminium and not plastic like the Pro M, right?

I offered an opinion on cases. One that everyone seems to share...the stock Evolv SUCKS for airflow compared to any Pro M version. Whether or not you want to admit it, that is a fact. Facts don't lie...people do.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneFunGenesis*
> 
> You know the Evolv is heavier because it's made of aluminium and not plastic like the Pro M, right?
> 
> I offered an opinion on cases. One that everyone seems to share...the stock Evolv SUCKS for airflow compared to any Pro M version. Whether or not you want to admit it, that is a fact. Facts don't lie...people do.


If you are talking straight Pro M vs Evolv ATX (which weren't the cases in question, btw), it is 16 vs 22 lb. Neither is a heavy case.....maybe if you have your 90 year old grandmother moving your build around for you that extra few pounds would be an issue.

The Pro M does have better airflow than the Evolv ATX. No one is saying it doesn't. But, the Evolv ATX doesn't "suck", nor is it "strangled", especially if you bother to set it up. It is very average as far as air flow.

BTW - your opinion is not a fact.


----------



## doyll

I just found out MNPCtech is making another run of their Phanteks Enthoo Primo top billet fan grill covers! These top grill covers crown the Enthoo Primo, making it even more elegant. While $169.99 plus postage is expensive, they really are exceptional bits of kit, but then it seems everything MNPCtech (Bill Owen) does is.







, If anyone is interested in pre-ordering one, they can contact Mnpctech sales, http://mnpctech.com/contact-us.html for more details. I PM'ed Bill asking a couple of questions about this deal, but so far he has not got back to me. I'll post up when he does.


----------



## dmfree88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Risley*
> 
> So I still cant decide between the Enthoo Pro M Acrylic versus the Enthoo Evolv Tempered Glass. What's holding me back from the Pro M is the fact that the intake filter in the front doesnt block dust coming in from the vents on the sides. I dont see why they designed it like this. For people that have this case, do you encounter a lot of dust build up? What about dust with the Evolv? Is it much better?
> 
> And in general, what benefits do you get with the Evolv over the Pro M? I can watch videos and all but I want to know from owners of the Evolv why they chose that case over the others.


Yeah mine is filtered now so no additional holes in the side vents. I am pretty happy with the dust buildup in mine. Very easy to clean and very minimal dust buildup. I have not opened mine to clean it yet since I bought it a few months ago now. Have cleaned the filters once (PSU filter 3 times because its on the floor and my PSU is always running). There is a little dust on the acrylic window inside I will probably clean soon but really decent considering I am in a very dusty and dirty garage. My only minor complaint as far as airflow goes is having to block off the bottom of the front panel and having to block off all the excess holes in the upper rad mount. It is not that difficult though. I think I have photos here somewhere:


Spoiler: Foam insert on front panel







That is the bottom of the front panel where you place your hand to pull the front panel off. For whatever dumb reason they decided to leave a huge gap. People have found multiple ways to fix it I just cut up a piece of foam to shape then wrapped it in electrical tape to protect from shredding and taped it to the case. Fit perfectly and compresses slightly to block all airflow. I seem to have less buildup now too as I had built up a little dust before adding the foam, now I have very little additional dust after probably twice as long.

I also had minor vibration issues mostly with the HDD in the HDD cage which was easily fixed with a small piece of foam. I also didn't want the top rad cage to have all 5+ screws in it so I could easily access the top fan so I ended up using small pieces of tape along the edge to apply pressure and prevent the rad mount from vibrating. Seems pointless to have such a nice removable cage if the screws are just as difficult to remove as if it were mounted without one.

Most cases have issues like this anyways and these were fairly easy to fix considering how good the case is for the price it is well worth it. Considering how dirty it is outside already the inside looks great with dust only visible on the acrylic near the fan edges and very little built up overall (most of it was built up before I properly sealed everything off).


Spoiler: SO dirty on the outside, what is that yellow thing? lol






As you can see I am just getting hammered with cathair and dust but inside is really decent considering it has not been cleaned once and I have barely tended to the filters. I am working on building a room in my garage and have been waiting to finish that before I clean it. I also have been planning on plasti-dipping the interior of the case for over a month now but my girlfriend broke her back and I have had to take care of her and my son more so it just sits getting dirty and running nearly 24/7.


----------



## pez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Risley*
> 
> Perfect! Lord knows whats taken them so long to release this version.


Yeah, this is unfortunate since I'm about to move on to yet another case -_-.


----------



## Risley

So I still cant decide between the Enthoo Pro M Acrylic versus the Enthoo Evolv Tempered Glass. What's holding me back from the Pro M is the fact that the intake filter in the front doesnt block dust coming in from the vents on the sides. I dont see why they designed it like this. For people that have this case, do you encounter a lot of dust build up? What about dust with the Evolv? Is it much better?

And in general, what benefits do you get with the Evolv over the Pro M? I can watch videos and all but I want to know from owners of the Evolv why they chose that case over the others.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pez*
> 
> Yeah, this is unfortunate since I'm about to move on to yet another case -_-.


You're done with the Pro M acrylic?


----------



## pez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Risley*
> 
> So I still cant decide between the Enthoo Pro M Acrylic versus the Enthoo Evolv Tempered Glass. What's holding me back from the Pro M is the fact that the intake filter in the front doesnt block dust coming in from the vents on the sides. I dont see why they designed it like this. For people that have this case, do you encounter a lot of dust build up? What about dust with the Evolv? Is it much better?
> 
> And in general, what benefits do you get with the Evolv over the Pro M? I can watch videos and all but I want to know from owners of the Evolv why they chose that case over the others.
> You're done with the Pro M acrylic?


If you've got the money, and like the Evolv ATX TG, I don't see a reason not to go with it







. I only chose it because I was still doing air cooling and doing SLI. That meant all of my intake was going to be pretty important. I can say that the sides have been fixed as of the version with Acrylic (someone mentioned it a few posts ago, too.


http://imgur.com/WSzenLz

.


http://imgur.com/Yeygrgr

.

And I've moved on from it as I've decided to a bit smaller. Trying to keep it to be a bit of a surprise








.


----------



## Risley

Alright guys, went ahead and purchased the Enthoo Pro M Acrylic for $69.99 from Newegg. Heres hoping my acrylic window doesnt come scratched or anything.


----------



## dmfree88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Risley*
> 
> Alright guys, went ahead and purchased the Enthoo Pro M Acrylic for $69.99 from Newegg. Heres hoping my acrylic window doesnt come scratched or anything.


Mine came with a fairly thick paper that was stuck to the window. Like new once removed.


----------



## michael-ocn

The Evolv case is sooooo sweeeeeet compared to the others, the alum panels all around are swanky as can be, jmho


----------



## Risley

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *michael-ocn*
> 
> The Evolv case is sooooo sweeeeeet compared to the others, the alum panels all around are swanky as can be, jmho


Well I would have gone with it but the price is just too much. I used the funds from that to get a better video card which is more important to me now.


----------



## Risley

Has anyone tried using the NZXT Kraken X61 280 mm AIO cooler and the Enthoo Pro M?


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Risley*
> 
> Has anyone tried using the NZXT Kraken X61 280 mm AIO cooler and the Enthoo Pro M?


some builds with the X61.


----------



## Risley

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PureBlackFire*
> 
> some builds with the X61.


NOICE


----------



## DONGOTTI

Finally have everything up and running. Excuse the phone pic lol


----------



## pshootr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DONGOTTI*
> 
> Finally have everything up and running. Excuse the phone pic lol
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Wow, that looks nice man!


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DONGOTTI*
> 
> Finally have everything up and running. Excuse the phone pic lol
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Really well done and laid out, looks very clean. Great looking rads, res and blocks, and your tubing layout is excellent. Too many builds with really busy tubing these days, and this is a great example of why clean lines look (and function) best.

::cough cough but::https://www.amazon.com/Alphacool-NB-eLoop-Bionic-120mm-2300/dp/B00H3JP9A2::would have looked so much better and been so much quieter while still being blue cough cough::


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PureBlackFire*
> 
> nice. looking forward to your account on this thing.


Well....after FedEx lost the first one, I finally got delivery on the block. Really nicely made, very solid. It has active cooling on the VRM and VRAM, which is a huge plus. Install was a breeze on the EVGA SC, far easier than it would have been on an FE. Though Phanteks specifically says it is for FE, the included hardware would seem to work with just about any reference board and backplate. The one issue I did find was that one of the standoffs on the block was a tiny bit short, and tightening the screw fully causes the board to ben. I simply used one of the included plastic washers to fill the void. While EK, XSPC and Swiftech all require you to either buy their backplate or get the screws and washers on your own to adapt a factory backplate, Phanteks includes them. That is a nice plus.

I'm thinking it is a bit restrictive and am hoping someone does some testing on this soon - I'm not running a flow meter at the moment. The reason I am thinking this is due to the openings from the input and output into the block are slits, rather than a larger round hole. Temps are exactly as expected from a top tier block (the GPU maxed at 44 in Heaven and Valley, but that is in _my_ setup which will be far different from others), nothing out of the ordinary good or bad.

I need to find the Luxe lighting controller I have laying around to see what the lighting looks like. I'm still undecided if I am going to use that, get an RGB controller and use the Aura adapter cable, or get three 3mm white LEDs with a plug that will go right into the GPU's LED power. Good for those using RGB LEDs, not so good for those of us who just want a single color and just want to plug in to the PSU or a 3-pin.

Without the lighting, it is good looking but nondescript in the case. I still need to clean up my wiring (sleeved extensions for GPU, MB, sound card and FP audio) and drop the drain down through the opening in the midplate.


----------



## litster

Hi everyone. I really like the look and build of the Phanteks Enthoo Evolv TG case. Is it possible to fit a ekwb Predator 360 (not 240) into it? Thanks.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *litster*
> 
> Hi everyone. I really like the look and build of the Phanteks Enthoo Evolv TG case. Is it possible to fit a ekwb Predator 360 (not 240) into it? Thanks.


It fits, but I have yet to see good results with it. The restrictive top does not get along with the Predator 360 as we have seen several times in this thread. The Swiftech H320-X2 seems to have no such issues. It also happens to offer slightly better performance and lower noise in almost every application....while having a better pump....and being easier to expand....and being better looking in the case.


----------



## DONGOTTI

Thanks guys that means a lot! My second ever PC build and my first attempt at watercooling.

Those nb e loop will probably make their way into this build. The one thing I'm partially not happy with is the fans, didn't do enough research on fans before those were purchased but oh well.


----------



## KaptainK

hi there!
I can't find how to mount my DDC pump with the EK heatsink housing on the phanteks pump mount bracket supplied with the Evolv mATX.
The attachment form a square of 50mm side.

Can you help please ?


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaptainK*
> 
> hi there!
> I can't find how to mount my DDC pump with the EK heatsink housing on the phanteks pump mount bracket supplied with the Evolv mATX.
> The attachment form a square of 50mm side.
> 
> Can you help please ?


----------



## KaptainK

ahah ! thanks !
I hoped they would have taken into account in one way or another these measures ...
it's silly for a "universal" pump bracket
got to fix it !


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaptainK*
> 
> ahah ! thanks !
> I hoped they would have taken into account in one way or another these measures ...
> it's silly for a "universal" pump bracket
> got to fix it !


Or.....EK needs to fix their mount.....









I always find that everything "universal" is actually "one-size fits none".


----------



## Stein619

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Risley*
> 
> Has anyone tried using the NZXT Kraken X61 280 mm AIO cooler and the Enthoo Pro M?


I'm still meaning to put pics of my build on here but it fits fine in the top if you don't want a Blu-ray drive and to fit it in the front you need to remove the hard drive cage and it fits fine.


----------



## doyll

Talked to Bill and he has offered us a 15% discount on this grill cover!
But MUST ORDER before midnight FRIDAY, 9/9/16.
You must contact Mnpctech directly!
http://mnpctech.com/contact-us.html
Must include fuill name, address, & phone number; and mention this OCN thread!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> I just found out MNPCtech is making another run of their Phanteks Enthoo Primo top billet fan grill covers! These top grill covers crown the Enthoo Primo, making it even more elegant. While $169.99 plus postage is expensive, they really are exceptional bits of kit, but then it seems everything MNPCtech (Bill Owen) does is.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , If anyone is interested in pre-ordering one, they can contact Mnpctech sales, http://mnpctech.com/contact-us.html for more details. I PM'ed Bill asking a couple of questions about this deal, but so far he has not got back to me. I'll post up when he does.


----------



## statyksyn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *KaptainK*
> 
> hi there!
> I can't find how to mount my DDC pump with the EK heatsink housing on the phanteks pump mount bracket supplied with the Evolv mATX.
> The attachment form a square of 50mm side.
> 
> Can you help please ?
Click to expand...

With mine I had to use two holes on the plate without the bracket and mark the other two positions and make my own holes. Just used a drill punch.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## nycgtr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DONGOTTI*
> 
> Finally have everything up and running. Excuse the phone pic lol


Looking good but I'd go for a diff sli bridge.


----------



## DONGOTTI

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nycgtr*
> 
> Looking good but I'd go for a diff sli bridge.


It was the closest thing I could find that was shiny/ stainless steel looking. Is there better options out there? I admit I didn't look very hard.


----------



## nycgtr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DONGOTTI*
> 
> It was the closest thing I could find that was shiny/ stainless steel looking. Is there better options out there? I admit I didn't look very hard.


The original evga v2 would match and those can be found for like 15 bucks now from microcenter, or if you could get one the HOF sli bridges.


----------



## Ceadderman

Hi guys. Just thought I would jump in here an let you all know that MNPCTech is giving back to our community in a big way. ModZoo and MNPCTech love Phanteks cases right?

So enter code, "OCN" at Checkout for 15% Discount off your order until 10/6/16

If Overseas, you need to follow instructions for ordering via "Contact Us" and mention the code @ http://mnpctech.com/contact-us.html], http://mnpctech.com/contact-us.html[/URL]

So if you've been contemplating modding your Phanteks case, here is an opportunity to save some money while doing so.









~Ceadder


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Hi guys. Just thought I would jump in here an let you all know that MNPCTech is giving back to our community in a big way. ModZoo and MNPCTech love Phanteks cases right?
> 
> So enter code, "OCN" at Checkout for 15% Discount off your order until 10/6/16
> 
> If Overseas, you need to follow instructions for ordering via "Contact Us" and mention the code @ http://mnpctech.com/contact-us.html], http://mnpctech.com/contact-us.html[/URL]
> 
> So if you've been contemplating modding your Phanteks case, here is an opportunity to save some money while doing so.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Thanks I had been eyeing some of their billet cable combs, went ahead and ordered them. Saved me a few bucks.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rfarmer*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Hi guys. Just thought I would jump in here an let you all know that MNPCTech is giving back to our community in a big way. ModZoo and MNPCTech love Phanteks cases right?
> 
> So enter code, "OCN" at Checkout for 15% Discount off your order until 10/6/16
> 
> If Overseas, you need to follow instructions for ordering via "Contact Us" and mention the code @ http://mnpctech.com/contact-us.html], http://mnpctech.com/contact-us.html[/URL]
> 
> So if you've been contemplating modding your Phanteks case, here is an opportunity to save some money while doing so.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks I had been eyeing some of their billet cable combs, went ahead and ordered them. Saved me a few bucks.
Click to expand...

You are welcome sir.









~Ceadder


----------



## smithydan

Can someone with an Evolv ATX measure from the inside bottom of the case(where the hdd are) to the top bar-the one above the sliding rad mount. You will have to remove the rad mount to measure. Thanks.


----------



## lorisl

Hello.

I'm the proud owner of an Eclipse P400S Case.
I was wondering if it's possible to connect custom RGB Strips to the RGB Controller of the Case.
This adapter here seems to have all the necessary connectors but I'm not sure it will work.
http://www.phanteks.com/PH-CB_RGB4P.html

My use case is that I have an RGB Strip behind my monitors and I want to control and power them trough the Case Controller.

Thanks in advance for your help.


----------



## doyll

MNPCTech is a great company with the best people. Bill Owen (owner) gives the best customer support I know of.


----------



## mrpurplehawk

so I did a thing last week and got a new case. Loving it so far


----------



## statyksyn

So I added the second 240 Rad to the top of the evolve itx, and made a modification to the top to actually allow air flow, what do you guys think?


----------



## statyksyn

So I added the second 240 Rad to the top of the evolve itx, and made a modification to the top to actually allow air flow, what do you guys think?

sorry for double post!!!


----------



## Kyouki

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *statyksyn*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I added the second 240 Rad to the top of the evolve itx, and made a modification to the top to actually allow air flow, what do you guys think?


Nice to see someone taking the jump and mod the outside panels of the case. I love the clean look almost to much to want to cut into them. I am thinking about ordering a 2nd set to play with maybe have them CNC to have some designed cut outs, maybe my design company logo or something. I found on my ATX model that having the top fans in exhaust with top on had no change in temps I am finding that the front panel is where I am getting the biggest temp difference when removing it.


----------



## statyksyn

Yea i just heard and saw how restrictive it is on the itx...maybe less on the atx but being able to see in now with the fans mounted theres no way they could expell the air lol. I would like to mod the front panel as well just like you said i notice a difference in temps with the front off and the case itself is just plain beautiful, i may do the same and just order a spare front panel and play with it!


----------



## statyksyn

And also i love your monochrome build that thing is epic! Good work!


----------



## Kyouki

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *statyksyn*
> 
> And also i love your monochrome build that thing is epic! Good work!


thank you!


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *statyksyn*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I added the second 240 Rad to the top of the evolve itx, and made a modification to the top to actually allow air flow, what do you guys think?


Any more pics? Looks great from what I can see.

I too and contemplating doing a cut top. I think the main thing is to come up with a design that fits with the overall aesthetic of the case and isn't a PIA for somebody to cut. 45 degree angles, parallelograms, long running lines, etc.


----------



## statyksyn

I will be uploading more tonight I'm at work for a few more hours ?, and yea i agree thats why i went with a precut grill made for adding a rad or fans to an area of a case that is solid. I may get a spare front panel and try my luck there too and see how it looks!

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## statyksyn

I can't think of any other views to really show it better sorry for the iPhone pics....I don't have a camera....I waste all my money on computer parts lol

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *statyksyn*
> 
> [
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> IMG]http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160907/cfb74904ab1df3cfcc4f547fd86f6590.jpg[/IMG]
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I can't think of any other views to really show it better sorry for the iPhone pics....I don't have a camera....I waste all my money on computer parts lol
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Looks good, you did a great job. I am sure your air flow is much better.


----------



## DrDringus

Hello, new to this forum, but I've been lurking for a few days.

I'm gonna start a fresh build soon and am strongly considering the Evolv ATX (though Corsair's 750D Airflow Edition was my first choice for a while) and have a question concerning fan orientation.

Gonna go with a 6700K and I already snagged a Swiftech H240 X2 Prestige ahead of time to make sure it wasn't out of stock by the time I got the rest of the components. Based on what I've heard, it can be problematic running the eLoops as exhaust for various reasons (fan blades hit rad, droning/excessive noise). Was wondering if my temps and airflow would be alright running the H240 as intake along with the front intakes, using one Corsair ML 140 Pro as rear exhaust in place of the stock PH-14SP? The ML 140 seems like a nice case/rad fan, and I LOVE the look, but would consider a more performant exhaust fan if the ML 140 isn't optimal.

Seems like a lot of intake, but the overall system wattage isn't going to be too high. Looking for 1.35v-1.40v on the i7 and likely a single GTX 1080 (not a slot blower). I suspect both the rad and front intake fans will be running pretty low if possible.

I could probably change the rad fans to something that functions better in a pull configuration, so I can top exhaust, but that seems like a waste of two awesome eLoops - and the majority of the $50 premium I paid for the "Prestige" version.

Also I'm also wondering how well a rad functions as intake in the top? Is it restrictive, or too dusty? I'm aware of the backwash problem when you use a top exhaust.

So... suggestions? I'm sure both doyll and ciarlatano can offer some insight.

Thanks in advance.


----------



## Risley

So I just received my enthoo Pro M Acrylic and love the way it looks. My Acrylic had one or two tiny tiny spots where it looks like a scratch but not enough for me to care. What I did notice is that if I take the back panel off, the case has holes drilled in that look like you could buy and attach another Acrylic panel there if you wanted to show off the cables. Is this new or has this been seen for a while? I ask because I was thinking if its new, then perhaps its more of a sign for the incoming tempered glass, where youd be able to basically make it look like the evolv atx tg. If its old then I guess they were thinking some may just want to buy another Acrylic piece. Either way, pretty sweet that they thought of this and you can basically do away with the black back panel.


----------



## pez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Risley*
> 
> So I just received my enthoo Pro M Acrylic and love the way it looks. My Acrylic had one or two tiny tiny spots where it looks like a scratch but not enough for me to care. What I did notice is that if I take the back panel off, the case has holes drilled in that look like you could buy and attach another Acrylic panel there if you wanted to show off the cables. Is this new or has this been seen for a while? I ask because I was thinking if its new, then perhaps its more of a sign for the incoming tempered glass, where youd be able to basically make it look like the evolv atx tg. If its old then I guess they were thinking some may just want to buy another Acrylic piece. Either way, pretty sweet that they thought of this and you can basically do away with the black back panel.


I will try to remember to take a look when I get home to see if my case is this way as well. I wouldn't really desire to do so without completely custom cables, but it's still a cool option.


----------



## Bloodbath

Whats the thickest 360 rad you can fit in the front of Evolv ATX? thinking of grabbing one and downsizing from the 900D but want to if possible squeeze in a UT60 or possibly Monsta for cooling one GPU and CPU, thanks in advance:thumb:


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bloodbath*
> 
> Whats the thickest 360 rad you can fit in the front of Evolv ATX? thinking of grabbing one and downsizing from the 900D but want to if possible squeeze in a UT60 or possibly Monsta for cooling one GPU and CPU, thanks in advance:thumb:


yes, you can fit those in front easily. but the monsta 360 isn't worth it. here you can see that the UT60 is just as good, some cases better, and the EK XE and XTX beat it completely.


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *statyksyn*
> 
> I can't think of any other views to really show it better sorry for the iPhone pics....I don't have a camera....I waste all my money on computer parts lol
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I think it looks great! At first I was a little eh about the cut out but up further review, it look good. Also, it seems you included mount holes for fans/rads which is smart. Should give you some extra room in the case.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DrDringus*
> 
> Hello, new to this forum, but I've been lurking for a few days.
> 
> I'm gonna start a fresh build soon and am strongly considering the Evolv ATX (though Corsair's 750D Airflow Edition was my first choice for a while) and have a question concerning fan orientation.
> 
> Gonna go with a 6700K and I already snagged a Swiftech H240 X2 Prestige ahead of time to make sure it wasn't out of stock by the time I got the rest of the components. Based on what I've heard, it can be problematic running the eLoops as exhaust for various reasons (fan blades hit rad, droning/excessive noise). Was wondering if my temps and airflow would be alright running the H240 as intake along with the front intakes, using one Corsair ML 140 Pro as rear exhaust in place of the stock PH-14SP? The ML 140 seems like a nice case/rad fan, and I LOVE the look, but would consider a more performant exhaust fan if the ML 140 isn't optimal.
> 
> Seems like a lot of intake, but the overall system wattage isn't going to be too high. Looking for 1.35v-1.40v on the i7 and likely a single GTX 1080 (not a slot blower). I suspect both the rad and front intake fans will be running pretty low if possible.
> 
> I could probably change the rad fans to something that functions better in a pull configuration, so I can top exhaust, but that seems like a waste of two awesome eLoops - and the majority of the $50 premium I paid for the "Prestige" version.
> 
> Also I'm also wondering how well a rad functions as intake in the top? Is it restrictive, or too dusty? I'm aware of the backwash problem when you use a top exhaust.
> 
> So... suggestions? I'm sure both doyll and ciarlatano can offer some insight.
> 
> Thanks in advance.


You shouldn't have any issues running the H240X-2P as front intake. If you mounted the H240 as exhaust it would be pulling the hot GPU air... so you win/lose either way. The big thing to do is to have good overall case airflow. The ML is really meant for a radiator but will function as a case fan just fine. IMO it is not worth the price as a case fan though. I would just use the included fans, which are more than competent, all as exhaust (2 top, 1 back). And for bonus points, close off the empty top area on the mounting plate as this will prevent warm air from possibly recirculating back into the case.

Not specifically relevant to your build, but doing something like this can be helpful for thinking out your build.


----------



## DrDringus

As far as I'm aware, you can't mount the H240 X2 in the front of the Evolv ATX with the reservoir and pump towards the bottom of the case. The opening on the mid-plate panel measures in at 110mm from front to back. The H240 is 115mm from the top of the fan frame to the bottom fitting on the pump, not counting the tubing.

Also pretty sure the tubing won't reach to the CPU from there either, but it'd probably be close.

The alternative is to mount with the pump and res towards the top, but that's not very pretty, as I'd be staring at the backside of the pump/reservoir housing.

It's a good suggestion though, and the ugly option is still an option if front intake is a necessity.

Sorry I can't quote the your response paskowitz, but I'm on mobile and the formatting is bleh.


----------



## statyksyn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> I think it looks great! At first I was a little eh about the cut out but up further review, it look good. Also, it seems you included mount holes for fans/rads which is smart. Should give you some extra room in the case.
> 
> Thanks! Ive noticed a significant temp drop as well, did a little stress testing last night and some this morning, so far its looking like between 11-15 degrees in drop from what i had before, id say it was worth it and came out lookin half decent! I Thanks again i was worried about it lookin horrible.


----------



## Ceadderman

Bill should make more of those top grills. I was looking at it and it couldn't be that difficult to mod them into other flat top cases.









~Ceadder


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DrDringus*
> 
> As far as I'm aware, you can't mount the H240 X2 in the front of the Evolv ATX with the reservoir and pump towards the bottom of the case. The opening on the mid-plate panel measures in at 110mm from front to back. The H240 is 115mm from the top of the fan frame to the bottom fitting on the pump, not counting the tubing.
> 
> Also pretty sure the tubing won't reach to the CPU from there either, but it'd probably be close.
> 
> The alternative is to mount with the pump and res towards the top, but that's not very pretty, as I'd be staring at the backside of the pump/reservoir housing.
> 
> It's a good suggestion though, and the ugly option is still an option if front intake is a necessity.
> 
> Sorry I can't quote the your response paskowitz, but I'm on mobile and the formatting is bleh.


You could be right but my H240X doesn't go all that far past the mid plate, maybe 5mm, and from what I can dell the layout is pretty close. Again, I could be wrong but if the fitting/tubing is facing right (IE towards the HDD mounts) it should clear just fine.

For reference:
H240-X2


H240-X


As for the tubing, that could be an issue. However, the Prestige comes with compression fittings so he could just buy some tubing. A bit of a hassle, but not too bad.


----------



## Bloodbath

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PureBlackFire*
> 
> yes, you can fit those in front easily. but the monsta 360 isn't worth it. here you can see that the UT60 is just as good, some cases better, and the EK XE and XTX beat it completely.


thanks for that info and those recommendations. I have been using UT60s for many years and are very happy with their performance.


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bloodbath*
> 
> [thanks for that info and those recommendations. I have been using UT60s for many years and are very happy with their performance.


no problem. UT60 is a fine radiator.


----------



## paskowitz

I never actually took the time to measure how restrictive the top of the Evolv ATX is but... holly hell is it restrictive.

Test conditions:
- Ambient Temp: 25c (+/- 1c)*
- Test Program: [email protected] (CPU/GPU)
- Test time per position: 15min
- Total system power consumption: ~450W (at the wall)
- Processors: CPU 4790K, GPU 980 Ti (both OC'd)
- Radiators: HWL BIN 280GTS (280mm), Swiftech H240X (280mm) (normal rad mount spacing with a sealed mount)
- Fans: 1x(intake) at 1350rpm, 3x (intake) & 2x (exhaust) all at 1500rpm (rad fans)
*22c A/C unit is blowing near PC area but room temp is 25c

Top positions:
- System idle w/ top off: 27c
- Load w/ top off: 30c
- Load w/ top resting on clips: 35c
- Load w/ top default attached position: 38c

*That is CRAZY! 8c!*

Phanteks would be wise to address this in future generations. In an identical scenario they should shoot for something like 33c with a default position. I'm not an engineer but I think the problem is not just the amount of space the air has to escape (although that is the main culprit), but the path it has to take to escape (IE the air is becoming turbulent thus is hard to expel). If the same area of vents were directly on the top, and all together, I would be willing to be the temps would be better.


----------



## dmfree88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> I never actually took the time to measure how restrictive the top of the Evolv ATX is but... holly hell is it restrictive.
> 
> Test conditions:
> - Ambient Temp: 25c (+/- 1c)*
> - Test Program: [email protected] (CPU/GPU)
> - Test time per position: 15min
> - Total system power consumption: ~450W (at the wall)
> - Processors: CPU 4790K, GPU 980 Ti (both OC'd)
> - Radiators: HWL BIN 280GTS (280mm), Swiftech H240X (280mm) (normal rad mount spacing with a sealed mount)
> - Fans: 1x(intake) at 1350rpm, 3x (intake) & 2x (exhaust) all at 1500rpm (rad fans)
> *22c A/C unit is blowing near PC area but room temp is 25c
> 
> Top positions:
> - System idle w/ top off: 27c
> - Load w/ top off: 30c
> - Load w/ top resting on clips: 35c
> - Load w/ top default attached position: 38c
> 
> *That is CRAZY! 8c!*
> 
> Phanteks would be wise to address this in future generations. In an identical scenario they should shoot for something like 33c with a default position. I'm not an engineer but I think the problem is not just the amount of space the air has to escape (although that is the main culprit), but the path it has to take to escape (IE the air is becoming turbulent thus is hard to expel). If the same area of vents were directly on the top, and all together, I would be willing to be the temps would be better.


I could be completely wrong about this but I think some of it is a trade off. If you really want a fully sealed case with dust filters all around you are going to have to cause some airflow restrictions which seems like any truly sealed case would cause this problem. If it really is just the top being so poorly ventilated wouldn't it be smarter to make the top intake and force the air out a less restricted area? You could then at least assure that most the warm air is moving out if the top is currently the only exhaust and not sufficient maybe the back would do better? Still probably have issues if one of your rads is on the top I assume.


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> I never actually took the time to measure how restrictive the top of the Evolv ATX is but... holly hell is it restrictive.
> 
> Test conditions:
> - Ambient Temp: 25c (+/- 1c)*
> - Test Program: [email protected] (CPU/GPU)
> - Test time per position: 15min
> - Total system power consumption: ~450W (at the wall)
> - Processors: CPU 4790K, GPU 980 Ti (both OC'd)
> - Radiators: HWL BIN 280GTS (280mm), Swiftech H240X (280mm) (normal rad mount spacing with a sealed mount)
> - Fans: 1x(intake) at 1350rpm, 3x (intake) & 2x (exhaust) all at 1500rpm (rad fans)
> *22c A/C unit is blowing near PC area but room temp is 25c
> 
> Top positions:
> - System idle w/ top off: 27c
> - Load w/ top off: 30c
> - Load w/ top resting on clips: 35c
> - Load w/ top default attached position: 38c
> 
> *That is CRAZY! 8c!*
> 
> Phanteks would be wise to address this in future generations. In an identical scenario they should shoot for something like 33c with a default position. I'm not an engineer but I think the problem is not just the amount of space the air has to escape (although that is the main culprit), but the path it has to take to escape (IE the air is becoming turbulent thus is hard to expel). If the same area of vents were directly on the top, and all together, I would be willing to be the temps would be better.


I agree completely. IMO, they can make the slits on the top panel twice as big by making them a bit wider in two directions (up and down). also, they should add a louvers at the top of the frame to direct airflow toward the slits in the top panel. or just one angled piece of metal sheet in a 'v' shape attached to the top panel that would direct airflow out each side. I actually think the amount of space is fine, but the lack of the exhaust being focused toward the vents is the issue. now the NZXT H440 is a case that simple doesn't have enough space for air to escape. that got annoying fast for me.


----------



## Kyouki

For me it was the front panel that made the biggest difference, the top changed my temps maybe 2c but the front removed I dropped almost 10c. I'm pretty happy now with my temps but I may test a few things soon to see if I can lower any further.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> I never actually took the time to measure how restrictive the top of the Evolv ATX is but... holly hell is it restrictive.
> 
> Test conditions:
> - Ambient Temp: 25c (+/- 1c)*
> - Test Program: [email protected] (CPU/GPU)
> - Test time per position: 15min
> - Total system power consumption: ~450W (at the wall)
> - Processors: CPU 4790K, GPU 980 Ti (both OC'd)
> - Radiators: HWL BIN 280GTS (280mm), Swiftech H240X (280mm) (normal rad mount spacing with a sealed mount)
> - Fans: 1x(intake) at 1350rpm, 3x (intake) & 2x (exhaust) all at 1500rpm (rad fans)
> *22c A/C unit is blowing near PC area but room temp is 25c
> 
> Top positions:
> - System idle w/ top off: 27c
> - Load w/ top off: 30c
> - Load w/ top resting on clips: 35c
> - Load w/ top default attached position: 38c
> 
> *That is CRAZY! 8c!*
> 
> Phanteks would be wise to address this in future generations. In an identical scenario they should shoot for something like 33c with a default position. I'm not an engineer but I think the problem is not just the amount of space the air has to escape (although that is the main culprit), but the path it has to take to escape (IE the air is becoming turbulent thus is hard to expel). If the same area of vents were directly on the top, and all together, I would be willing to be the temps would be better.


Sounds to me like something is not what it seems. While the top is rather restrictive, it is not that restrictive setting on clips.

Are you sure all unused openings between top and motherboard compartment are closed off?
Because if you do not the airflow through top radiator is circling around and around.

Yes, the difference between top clipped on and resting on clips is huge. But 30-35-38c does not sound right to me. Still, your temps (35-38c in a25c room) are definitely not hot.


----------



## michael-ocn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> I never actually took the time to measure how restrictive the top of the Evolv ATX is but... holly hell is it restrictive.
> 
> Test conditions:
> - Ambient Temp: 25c (+/- 1c)*
> - Test Program: [email protected] (CPU/GPU)
> - Test time per position: 15min
> - Total system power consumption: ~450W (at the wall)
> - Processors: CPU 4790K, GPU 980 Ti (both OC'd)
> - Radiators: HWL BIN 280GTS (280mm), Swiftech H240X (280mm) (normal rad mount spacing with a sealed mount)
> - Fans: 1x(intake) at 1350rpm, 3x (intake) & 2x (exhaust) all at 1500rpm (rad fans)
> *22c A/C unit is blowing near PC area but room temp is 25c
> 
> Top positions:
> - System idle w/ top off: 27c
> - Load w/ top off: 30c
> - Load w/ top resting on clips: 35c
> - Load w/ top default attached position: 38c
> 
> *That is CRAZY! 8c!*
> 
> Phanteks would be wise to address this in future generations. In an identical scenario they should shoot for something like 33c with a default position. I'm not an engineer but I think the problem is not just the amount of space the air has to escape (although that is the main culprit), but the path it has to take to escape (IE the air is becoming turbulent thus is hard to expel). If the same area of vents were directly on the top, and all together, I would be willing to be the temps would be better.


It'd be interesting to see your results with regard to the front panel too?

Your right that the evolv is restrictive, at both the top and front panels. It would be AWESOME if phanteks offered a "hi airflow" version that sported aethestically pleasing vented panels for the top and front, and sold those panels as accessories for those of us that run with the front panel popped off entirely when its warm out









edit: Something you have to be sure to do if you haven't already, is to seal off the open spaces in top rad bracket, otherwise air mostly recirculates instead of being force out (or pulled in depending on how you've got it setup).


----------



## mrpurplehawk

Enthoo Primo question

Am I just dumb, or how does one remobe the bottom radiator bracket/


----------



## PetrasSukys

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mrpurplehawk*
> 
> Enthoo Primo question
> 
> Am I just dumb, or how does one remobe the bottom radiator bracket/


There are two screws outside near the grill for secondary PSU, one screw on the HDD bay cover (the one with a Phantels Logo) and the last one on the PSU compartment shroud, which you can access from the other side

EDIT: added quote


----------



## mrpurplehawk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PetrasSukys*
> 
> There are two screws outside near the grill for secondary PSU, one screw on the HDD bay cover (the one with a Phantels Logo) and the last one on the PSU compartment shroud, which you can access from the other side
> 
> EDIT: added quote


Thanks, apparently I am dumb or at least blind


----------



## statyksyn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> I never actually took the time to measure how restrictive the top of the Evolv ATX is but... holly hell is it restrictive.
> 
> Test conditions:
> - Ambient Temp: 25c (+/- 1c)*
> - Test Program: [email protected] (CPU/GPU)
> - Test time per position: 15min
> - Total system power consumption: ~450W (at the wall)
> - Processors: CPU 4790K, GPU 980 Ti (both OC'd)
> - Radiators: HWL BIN 280GTS (280mm), Swiftech H240X (280mm) (normal rad mount spacing with a sealed mount)
> - Fans: 1x(intake) at 1350rpm, 3x (intake) & 2x (exhaust) all at 1500rpm (rad fans)
> *22c A/C unit is blowing near PC area but room temp is 25c
> 
> Top positions:
> - System idle w/ top off: 27c
> - Load w/ top off: 30c
> - Load w/ top resting on clips: 35c
> - Load w/ top default attached position: 38c
> 
> *That is CRAZY! 8c!*
> 
> Phanteks would be wise to address this in future generations. In an identical scenario they should shoot for something like 33c with a default position. I'm not an engineer but I think the problem is not just the amount of space the air has to escape (although that is the main culprit), but the path it has to take to escape (IE the air is becoming turbulent thus is hard to expel). If the same area of vents were directly on the top, and all together, I would be willing to be the temps would be better.


Yes! Exactly why i chopped up my top! lol and now thinking of modding the front panel with the same grill i used on the top! The case is beautiful and i called phanteks and they sell the panel separate so if i bludgeon it to death i can just slap another on lol


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *statyksyn*
> 
> Yes! Exactly why i chopped up my top! lol and now thinking of modding the front panel with the same grill i used on the top! The case is beautiful and i called phanteks and they sell the panel separate so if i bludgeon it to death i can just slap another on lol


I considered doing the same. But, after testing I was finding a ~4C difference in liquid and in case temps after stress testing for an hour with the top on or completely off. That just isn't enough of a difference to be worth the hassle and loss of looks for me.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> I considered doing the same. But, after testing I was finding a ~4C difference in liquid and in case temps after stress testing for an hour with the top on or completely off. That just isn't enough of a difference to be worth the hassle and loss of looks for me.


This is the kind of differences I found too. 4c isn't a huge difference.

Clipped and unclipped difference was greater then unclipped and no top. I even mounted my A80 and put up with 40+ dB of noise to test it.


----------



## paskowitz

BTW, my top is totally sealed off, even the cable grommet areas.

I'm attempting an experiment to see if the top restriction problem is a matter of vent area or turbulence. Long story short, I'm walling off the perimeter of the inner top cavity and then creating a diffuser (like on the back of a race car) over the rad area. Hopefully this results in smoother airflow and consequently lower temps.

I'm also going to see what taping off specific vents does (in combination with the other variables).


----------



## Chiobe

Is there any news on when the new cases comes out, like the Elite?


----------



## statyksyn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> BTW, my top is totally sealed off, even the cable grommet areas.
> 
> I'm attempting an experiment to see if the top restriction problem is a matter of vent area or turbulence. Long story short, I'm walling off the perimeter of the inner top cavity and then creating a diffuser (like on the back of a race car) over the rad area. Hopefully this results in smoother airflow and consequently lower temps.
> 
> I'm also going to see what taping off specific vents does (in combination with the other variables).


Awesome! let me know what you find i was thinking about doing that myself as well. Im fully liquid cooled and what ever degrees lost sure counts


----------



## doyll

Sounds like we have an ongoing project.

If we were truck drivers I would say we have convoy going. "You copy Rubber Duck?"


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> BTW, my top is totally sealed off, even the cable grommet areas.
> 
> I'm attempting an experiment to see if the top restriction problem is a matter of vent area or turbulence. Long story short, I'm walling off the perimeter of the inner top cavity and then creating a diffuser (like on the back of a race car) over the rad area. Hopefully this results in smoother airflow and consequently lower temps.
> 
> I'm also going to see what taping off specific vents does (in combination with the other variables).


Looking forward to seeing these results.


----------



## statyksyn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Sounds like we have an ongoing project.
> 
> If we were truck drivers I would say we have convoy going. "You copy Rubber Duck?"


10-4 danger ranger!


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Looking forward to seeing these results.


I will try to be a detailed as possible. ATM it looks like I may not get everything done this weekend. I'll probably build this weekend and test the next. I also plan on buying/renting a fog/smoke machine so I can actually "see" the air and not just guess if my modifications are working. It's either that or burning a lot of liquid glycerin.

For those wondering what I am trying to achieve, this video (start at 1:30) is a good visual representation...



TBH I am expecting this to be the result...


----------



## doyll

I've tried several times to use smoke. It mixes to quickly to tell much if anything. "BUSTED" is about it.

I've had better results monitoring temperature in different place in the case.
http://www.overclock.net/t/1491876/ways-to-better-cooling-airflow-cooler-fan-data/0_20#post_22319171


----------



## Risley

Sigh...I just finished putting together my build in the Pro M Acrylic. Love the case, easy to work with. It looks so incredibly clean compared to what I did back in 2008 with my first build. Only issue, installed the fans for my Kraken x61 upside down FFS. The instructions said to install them with the label side down. So I attempted to have the radiator pushing the hot air out the top. Instead, when I stuck my hand in the case, it was getting air blown on it. Ill have to flip them tomorrow so that they are blowing air out.

BTW, what the best benchmark to check for artifacts or stability issues?


----------



## michael-ocn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Risley*
> 
> Sigh...I just finished putting together my build in the Pro M Acrylic. Love the case, easy to work with. It looks so incredibly clean compared to what I did back in 2008 with my first build. Only issue, installed the fans for my Kraken x61 upside down FFS. The instructions said to install them with the label side down. So I attempted to have the radiator pushing the hot air out the top. Instead, when I stuck my hand in the case, it was getting air blown on it. Ill have to flip them tomorrow so that they are blowing air out.
> 
> BTW, what the best benchmark to check for artifacts or stability issues?


occt large data set is pretty good for cpu stability, its one of the more demanding cpu stability tests, x264 and x265 benches are reasonable alternatives for a final pass, aida64 cpu/cache/fpu is a great first pass at it. hci memtest is good for mem and cache


----------



## Slap Dash

Build update; I finally named my Project "CrimsonICE". It's now been 24 hours leak testing & I can say I'm very happy with the results, Started the build with complete intention to bend my own PETG tubing but I wanted a slightly different look. So just went with Straight cuts & used XSPC Chrome Black Fittings to suit the bends.. I Still have a couple of things I'd like to change up such as the White SATA ends (all I had at the time) & possibly grab a Red Phanteks LED strip to tuck away somewhere.

Otherwise Temps I'm finding are great.

Idle Temps CPU: 20c Degrees
Idle Temps GPU's: 20-22c Degrees
Load Temps CPU: 35c Degrees
Load Temps GPU's: 37c Degrees

Loving the design of the case & think it suits the build nicely. Let me know your thoughts.

Build Log & More here:


http://imgur.com/O4ILR




http://imgur.com/ebnvl6I





http://imgur.com/KTK3OfK


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slap Dash*
> 
> Build update.. It's now been 24 hours leak testing & I can say I'm very happy with the results, Started the build with complete intention to bend my own PETG tubing but I wanted a slightly different look. So just went with Straight cuts & used XSPC Chrome Black Fittings to suit the bends.. I Still have a couple of things I'd like to change up such as the White SATA ends (all I had at the time) & possibly grab a Red Phanteks LED strip to tuck away somewhere.
> 
> Otherwise Temps I'm finding are great.
> 
> Idle Temps CPU: 20c Degrees
> Idle Temps GPU's: 20-22c Degrees
> Load Temps CPU: 35c Degrees
> Load Temps GPU's: 37c Degrees
> 
> Loving the design of the case & think it suits the build nicely. Let me know your thoughts.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/ebnvl6I
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/KTK3OfK


Great looking build, nice and clean. Your temps are fantastic.


----------



## Slap Dash

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rfarmer*
> 
> Great looking build, nice and clean. Your temps are fantastic.


Thanks Mate, It's not much but Build log attached.



http://imgur.com/O4ILR


----------



## arrow0309

Hi guys, my huge Enthoo Primo is about to get shrinked with a smaller and lighter Enthoo Evolv atx I'm about to order right now.
I wanted to ask you, since the regular version is cheaper than the "tempered glass" is the second one even heavier (for its glass panel) or not?
And one more thing, since I'll gonna do a new wc setup but still wanna reuse some parts from my actual rig, one of them will be my top rad 280 XT45 that'll become a front rad inside the new Evolv Atx.
According to this pic:

http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/2825890/

I notice that the front 140mm fans (and so a 280mm rad as well) can be lifted up by about half a measure of a fan, is that correct?
And so, could I still use the below space to place (at least) one 3.5" hdd?

Thanks!
And btw, @Slap Dash
Nice system and very nice temps


----------



## Chiobe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *arrow0309*
> 
> Hi guys, my huge Enthoo Primo is about to get shrinked with a smaller and lighter Enthoo Evolv atx I'm about to order right now.


I have the opposite problem, I find the Primo too small/stuffed.
Guess its a matter of what you want in the case.


----------



## doyll

I moved from Primo to Luxe .. then build an Evolv ATX as well. I loved everything about the Primo except it's height. Too tall to fit many any of the place I wanted to put it while on a castor base .. and the one place it would fit without caster base was a royal pain to get it in and out of without the base.


----------



## arrow0309

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chiobe*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *arrow0309*
> 
> Hi guys, my huge Enthoo Primo is about to get shrinked with a smaller and lighter Enthoo Evolv atx I'm about to order right now.
> 
> 
> 
> I have the opposite problem, I find the Primo too small/stuffed.
> Guess its a matter of what you want in the case.
Click to expand...

Yeah, my Primo is just fine, I'm on single gpu (quitted to do a 980ti sli and went for a single 1080 Strix OC instead) and all is gorgeous.
But is very heavy and a bit difficult to handle and (especially) transport.
Since I'm often moving to a different location with my job I just needed a smaller yet nice one.
Couldn't find any better than the Evolv Atx








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> I moved from Primo to Luxe .. then build an Evolv ATX as well. I loved everything about the Primo except it's height. Too tall to fit many any of the place I wanted to put it while on a castor base .. and the one place it would fit without caster base was a royal pain to get it in and out of without the base.


This


----------



## arrow0309

Btw, I'm gonna use an horizontal reservoir, something like this:

http://i.imgur.com/qVXx6Cr.jpg?1

And so I just ordered a new mainboard









https://www.chiploco.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/06/ASRock-Z87M-OC-Formula-4095-MHz-DDR3-2.png


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> I moved from Primo to Luxe .. then build an Evolv ATX as well. I loved everything about the Primo except it's height. Too tall to fit many any of the place I wanted to put it while on a castor base .. and the one place it would fit without caster base was a royal pain to get it in and out of without the base.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *arrow0309*
> 
> Yeah, my Primo is just fine, I'm on single gpu (quitted to do a 980ti sli and went for a single 1080 Strix OC instead) and all is gorgeous.
> But is very heavy and a bit difficult to handle and (especially) transport.
> Since I'm often moving to a different location with my job I just needed a smaller yet nice one.
> Couldn't find any better than the Evolv Atx
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This


I went Primo, Luxe, Evolv ATX. I fully intended to go back to the Luxe after I finished the Evolv ATX evaluation, but I just couldn't let the Evolv ATX go. It was just too nice.

I moved out of the Primo for a couple of reasons. First, I decided to do a cooling system that was what I actually needed rather than an overkill setup - just got sick of the maintenance and overcomplication. Second, I got really tired of lifting up a filled Primo every time I wanted to make a change (and I change components often). I would get a few degrees better cooling with the Luxe, but the Evolv just fit what I wanted to do absolutely perfectly.


----------



## doyll

I would love to see the Enthoo Mini XL with an ATX motherboard layout w/ PSU in bottom.
260 x 550 x 480 mm compared to Luxe's 235 x 560 x 550 mm means about 52mm cable management area behind motherboard .. more than twice the space needed for 3.5" HDD.









I need to find a donor case to cannibalize the back and motherboard tray out of for my Mini case.







Not sure what would be best. Anyone have any good ideas?


----------



## Chiobe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> I moved out of the Primo for a couple of reasons. First, I decided to do a cooling system that was what I actually needed rather than an overkill setup - just got sick of the maintenance and overcomplication. Second, I got really tired of lifting up a filled Primo every time I wanted to make a change (and I change components often). I would get a few degrees better cooling with the Luxe, but the Evolv just fit what I wanted to do absolutely perfectly.


Overkill is a matter of perspective. If you use a high end rig with SLI, you need a lot of surface area to keep things cool, unless you want it to sound like a wind tunnel.
As for weight, its manageable. Its more size or shape that is the problem (no where to put your hands when lifting).

Guess I will look at the Elite when Phanteks releases it this month or next. If it dont work out, then I guess I need to go custom or cube again.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chiobe*
> 
> Overkill is a matter of perspective. If you use a high end rig with SLI, you need a lot of surface area to keep things cool, unless you want it to sound like a wind tunnel.
> As for weight, its manageable. Its more size or shape that is the problem (no where to put your hands when lifting).
> 
> Guess I will look at the Elite when Phanteks releases it this month or next. If it dont work out, then I guess I need to go custom or cube again.


When I say "overkill", I mean "overkill". It is not a matter of perspective, nor do I require lessons the absolute fundamentals of the way liquid cooling works. Using three rads to achieve exactly the same performance with the same fan speeds in *my rig* is overkill. Period. Plain and simple. Less parts, less noise, same performance, easier maintenance. The only "downside" (which is not a downside for me since I couldn't possibly care less) is that teenagers don't "ooh" and "ahhhh" if I post a pic of my rig (which would only be done if I was trying to give a visual answer to a question posed here).

Also, my rig must not be "high end" since I only use one GPU....but it's kind of hard to justify doing SLI when 99% of what I do is CPU based, and I have exactly two games installed....which both get well over 60 fps on ultra settings. I really don't need another GPU to impress anyone, and it would make zero difference in my user experience.


----------



## Chiobe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> When I say "overkill", I mean "overkill". It is not a matter of perspective, nor do I require lessons the absolute fundamentals of the way liquid cooling works. Using three rads to achieve exactly the same performance with the same fan speeds in *my rig* is overkill. Period. Plain and simple. Less parts, less noise, same performance, easier maintenance. The only "downside" (which is not a downside for me since I couldn't possibly care less) is that teenagers don't "ooh" and "ahhhh" if I post a pic of my rig (which would only be done if I was trying to give a visual answer to a question posed here).
> 
> Also, my rig must not be "high end" since I only use one GPU....but it's kind of hard to justify doing SLI when 99% of what I do is CPU based, and I have exactly two games installed....which both get well over 60 fps on ultra settings. I really don't need another GPU to impress anyone, and it would make zero difference in my user experience.


Usually so does the same people that say overkill, say that 120mm per component or 240mm if overclocked, is all that you need.
Which is proven wrong on high end hardware, like 3x Titan X on a 560mm + 280mm (JayzTwoCents rig).
So sorry, if I'm tired of hearing about stuff being overkill.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chiobe*
> 
> Usually so does the same people that say overkill, say that 120mm per component or 240mm if overclocked, is all that you need.
> Which is proven wrong on high end hardware, like 3x Titan X on a 560mm + 280mm (JayzTwoCents rig).
> So sorry, if I'm tired of hearing about stuff being overkill.


You need to step back and take a deep breath.
You seem to think you know more than others here .. others with many many years of experience testing, building and modifying systems .. often one or more a month. I haven't used water for many years, but I've known ciarlatano for about the same number of years now .. and know he is among the most experienced and knowledgeable builders there is .. so when he said he doesn't need as many components in his H2O system, then he definitely doesn't need them. If he says the cooling components he was using in his Primo were overkill, then they were indeed overkill.

I'm not doubting you believe you need every component you have in your system. Maybe you do. I'm not going to judge you on that subject.

But ciarlatano knows better what he needs than you do. That is not a judgement, but a statement of fact!


----------



## Chiobe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> You need to step back and take a deep breath.
> You seem to think you know more than others here .. others with many many years of experience testing, building and modifying systems .. often one or more a month. I haven't used water for many years, but I've known ciarlatano for about the same number of years now .. and know he is among the most experienced and knowledgeable builders there is .. so when he said he doesn't need as many components in his H2O system, then he definitely doesn't need them. If he says the cooling components he was using in his Primo were overkill, then they were indeed overkill.
> 
> I'm not doubting you believe you need every component you have in your system. Maybe you do. I'm not going to judge you on that subject.
> 
> But ciarlatano knows better what he needs than you do. That is not a judgement, but a statement of fact!


When it seems that part of the reason why so many people have had Mayhems Pastel change color, is do to the fact that the dye cant handle the water temperature, then its clear that guidelines for recommended radiator space is not good enough. Specially when the same radiator space is been recommended for a part that adds 250W into the loop and a part that adds 90W into it (120mm per part).

But this is a topic that is getting us no where, so lets just end it.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chiobe*
> 
> When it seems that part of the reason why so many people have had Mayhems Pastel change color, is do to the fact that the dye cant handle the water temperature, then its clear that guidelines for recommended radiator space is not good enough. Specially when the same radiator space is been recommended for a part that adds 250W into the loop and a part that adds 90W into it (120mm per part).
> 
> But this is a topic that is getting us no where, so lets just end it.


?????
Mayhems Pastel have absolutely nothing to do with this subject!
Guidelines for recommended radiator size also have nothing to do with this either!!
You stepped jumped into a discussion about downsizing from Enthoo Primo cases making claims about what is or isn't 'overkill' with no knowledge of what ciarlatano had or has in his system.

Indeed! You need to end what you started!
Say no more and it is ended!


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> "Snip"
> Also, my rig must not be "high end" since I only use one GPU....but it's kind of hard to justify doing SLI when 99% of what I do is CPU based, and I have exactly two games installed....which both get well over 60 fps on ultra settings. I really don't need another GPU to impress anyone, and it would make zero difference in my user experience.


Maybe I missed it, but how is your new GPU and Phantkes waterblock working?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *arrow0309*
> 
> Btw, I'm gonna use an horizontal reservoir, something like this:
> 
> http://i.imgur.com/qVXx6Cr.jpg?1
> 
> And so I just ordered a new mainboard
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> https://www.chiploco.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/06/ASRock-Z87M-OC-Formula-4095-MHz-DDR3-2.png


Nice looking motherboard! I assume you know having top level of coolant in reservoir lower than top of component coolant can mean air entrapment and can be a problem even after you bleed it all out? It will work, but you will likely have to bleed it off periodically.


----------



## Seel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chiobe*
> 
> Usually so does the same people that say overkill, say that 120mm per component or 240mm if overclocked, is all that you need.
> Which is proven wrong on high end hardware, like 3x Titan X on a 560mm + 280mm (JayzTwoCents rig).
> So sorry, if I'm tired of hearing about stuff being overkill.


JayzTwoCents uses crappy Corsair AF fans on those rads at low rpm, which compounds the problem further.
That 120mm per component / 240 if overclocked rule presupposes decent fans at reasonable rpm.


----------



## Chiobe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> ?????
> Mayhems Pastel have absolutely nothing to do with this subject!
> Guidelines for recommended radiator size also have nothing to do with this either!!
> You stepped jumped into a discussion about downsizing from Enthoo Primo cases making claims about what is or isn't 'overkill' with no knowledge of what ciarlatano had or has in his system.
> 
> Indeed! You need to end what you started!
> Say no more and it is ended!


The whole color change for Mayhems Pastel, seems to be related to water temp (dye reacting or something like that), when dirty rads and blocks are taken out of the equation.
What that proves, is that most people are putting way too much heat into there loop, hence why I'm trying to get people to reformulate what "overkill" means.

Which is why I said that "overkill" is a matter of perspective: CPU might be fine with 240mm temp vice, but will require pastel change twice a year to keep the color. So 480mm for a pastel change once a year or later, is not as overkill as people says it is.

But I will stop talking about that now.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seel*
> 
> JayzTwoCents uses crappy Corsair AF fans on those rads at low rpm, which compounds the problem further.
> That 120mm per component / 240 if overclocked rule presupposes decent fans at reasonable rpm.


"120 mm per component" is simply too general. Not all "120 mm" are the same .. different thickness, fin count, tube count, etc. and not all "component" is the same either .. different TDP .. is it 90 TDPor is it 300 TDP? .. and that's before they are overclocked.


----------



## arrow0309

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *arrow0309*
> 
> Hi guys, my huge Enthoo Primo is about to get shrinked with a smaller and lighter Enthoo Evolv atx I'm about to order right now.
> I wanted to ask you, since the regular version is cheaper than the "tempered glass" is the second one even heavier (for its glass panel) or not?
> And one more thing, since I'll gonna do a new wc setup but still wanna reuse some parts from my actual rig, one of them will be my top rad 280 XT45 that'll become a front rad inside the new Evolv Atx.
> According to this pic:
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/2825890/
> 
> I notice that the front 140mm fans (and so a 280mm rad as well) can be lifted up by about half a measure of a fan, is that correct?
> And so, could I still use the below space to place (at least) one 3.5" hdd?
> 
> Thanks!
> And btw, @Slap Dash
> Nice system and very nice temps


Up








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> I went Primo, Luxe, Evolv ATX. I fully intended to go back to the Luxe after I finished the Evolv ATX evaluation, but I just couldn't let the Evolv ATX go. It was just too nice.
> 
> I moved out of the Primo for a couple of reasons. First, I decided to do a cooling system that was what I actually needed rather than an overkill setup - just got sick of the maintenance and overcomplication. Second, I got really tired of lifting up a filled Primo every time I wanted to make a change (and I change components often). I would get a few degrees better cooling with the Luxe, but the Evolv just fit what I wanted to do absolutely perfectly.


How come could be the Luxe better tan the Evolv Atx?








Maybe 'cause it's a little bigger?
But it's heavier, not aluminium, yeah, you may throw in more hdd for sure and have a bit more height clearance for a top 360 (I have in mind to use on my next system).
But can you also place a 280 (alphacool xt45) on the front of the Luxe?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Nice looking motherboard! I assume you know having top level of coolant in reservoir lower than top of component coolant can mean air entrapment and can be a problem even after you bleed it all out? It will work, but you will likely have to bleed it off periodically.


Thanks! It'll be the younger sister of my premium motherboard Z87 OCF (I'm gonna sell soon) and also lacks (pretty much) nothing I'm looking forward with really nice oc capabilities and the same vrm like the Z87 OCF.








About the lower res yeah, could be no problem whatsoever, I can handle it and consider I'm dealing with something similar even now:



Having a top (280 xt45) rad and a lower res (front dual bay dual D5 Koolance RP-452 X2 rev 2.0) with the top res level about 200mm lower than the top rad level.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *arrow0309*
> 
> Up
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> How come could be the Luxe better tan the Evolv Atx?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Maybe 'cause it's a little bigger?
> But it's heavier, not aluminium, yeah, you may throw in more hdd for sure and have a bit more height clearance for a top 360 (I have in mind to use on my next system).
> But can you also place a 280 (alphacool xt45) on the front of the Luxe?
> Thanks! It'll be the younger sister of my premium motherboard Z87 OCF (I'm gonna sell soon) and also lacks (pretty much) nothing I'm looking forward with really nice oc capabilities and the same vrm like the Z87 OCF.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> About the lower res yeah, could be no problem whatsoever, I can handle it and consider I'm dealing with something similar even now:
> 
> 
> 
> Having a top (280 xt45) rad and a lower (front dual bay dual D5 Koolance RP-452 X2 rev 2.0) with the top res level about 200mm lower than the top rad level.


Luxe has better airflow than Evolv ATX, but the front 200mm has to be changed to 2x 140mm fans.
Top vent of Luxe is way, way bigger.

As long as you are aware air will collect in the top radiator and probably need to be bled out at least a few times, possibly every several months too. With as much 'overkill' reserve cooling ability as you have some air in top radiator may never be an issue.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seel*
> 
> JayzTwoCents uses crappy Corsair AF fans on those rads at low rpm, which compounds the problem further.
> That 120mm per component / 240 if overclocked rule presupposes decent fans at reasonable rpm.


And good rads. But frankly, it's just a simplified rule of thumb. You really need to match up your actual heat output with the capabilities of the radiator. Obviously 120mm of EK SE Series radiator does not have the same capabilities as 120mm worth of HWL SR2.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chiobe*
> 
> The whole color change for Mayhems Pastel, seems to be related to water temp (dye reacting or something like that), when dirty rads and blocks are taken out of the equation.
> What that proves, is that most people are putting way too much heat into there loop, hence why I'm trying to get people to reformulate what "overkill" means.
> 
> Which is why I said that "overkill" is a matter of perspective: CPU might be fine with 240mm temp vice, but will require pastel change twice a year to keep the color. So 480mm for a pastel change once a year or later, is not as overkill as people says it is.
> 
> But I will stop talking about that now.


Sorry, but having your liquid temps too high generally isn't a result of not stuffing as much rad as possible in your case - it's a result of poor planning and design. Which, coincidentally, the whole "just stuff your case full of as many rads as possible" is. It shows a general lack of knowledge and understanding, and a simple "I'll just put in more stuff since it's easier than learning to put in the right stuff". And as we see here over and over....what stuff it is doesn't matter. Color rings matter more than cooling ability. Manufacturer says not to use that coolant with that pump - doesn't matter because it's all about the color.

There is no reformulation of "overkill" needed. If you are designing to cool, you don't have these issues, and you don't wind up with a case stuffed full of garbage components. "Overkill" is "overkill". It has nothing to do with "120mm per component". It has to do with where you are adding components for the sake of adding components. That point that those added components do nothing for your performance and only complicate the loop and add potential problems. That is not a matter of "perspective".


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *arrow0309*
> 
> Up
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> How come could be the Luxe better tan the Evolv Atx?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Maybe 'cause it's a little bigger?
> But it's heavier, not aluminium, yeah, you may throw in more hdd for sure and have a bit more height clearance for a top 360 (I have in mind to use on my next system).
> But can you also place a 280 (alphacool xt45) on the front of the Luxe?


I was speaking strictly from an airflow perspective for the loop I was planning on doing. In the end I got the difference down to just a few degrees, but it took some work and trying out a lot of different fan combinations.


----------



## arrow0309

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Luxe has better airflow than Evolv ATX, but the front 200mm has to be changed to 2x 140mm fans.
> Top vent of Luxe is way, way bigger.
> 
> As long as you are aware air will collect in the top radiator and probably need to be bled out at least a few times, possibly every several months too. With as much 'overkill' reserve cooling ability as you have some air in top radiator may never be an issue.


Ok, yeah the Luxe has its "pro's" and I like it (and it also costs less than the Evolv, around £20 less)
Also removing the 200mm front fan won't be an issue nor the two hdd cages.
But can you confirm me it will accommodate my 280mm rad in the front (better if in p/p)?
I see you can also remove the black frontal plate that covers the hdd cages.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *arrow0309*
> 
> Ok, yeah the Luxe has its "pro's" and I like it (and it also costs less than the Evolv, around £20 less)
> Also removing the 200mm front fan won't be an issue nor the two hdd cages.
> But can you confirm me it will accommodate my 280mm rad in the front (better if in p/p)?
> I see you can also remove the black frontal plate that covers the hdd cages.


I know a 280mm won't go in the front without some type of mod.....but for the life of me I can't remember what you have to do to get it to fit, if it will at all. Hopefully someone will chime in, [retty sure @PureBlackFire has the answer.

You can, however, put it in the bottom provided your PSU isn't huge, and don't mind drilling two holes.


----------



## arrow0309

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> I know a 280mm won't go in the front without some type of mod.....but for the life of me I can't remember what you have to do to get it to fit, if it will at all. Hopefully someone will chime in, [retty sure @PureBlackFire has the answer.
> 
> You can, however, put it in the bottom provided your PSU isn't huge, and don't mind drilling two holes.


Hmm, I can see there are the holes for a double 140mm fan on the bottom:

http://www.pcgameware.co.uk/images/Phanteks-Enthoo-Luxe-bottom-filters.jpg

But I'm not sure if my Evga Supernova G2 850W will also fit there.
Can see (hardly) a 240mm rad setup here:

http://cdn.overclock.net/9/9b/9b7b3440_image.jpeg

But I'm not sure my psu & some cables + a 280 rad will fit just fine.


----------



## Chiobe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Sorry, but having your liquid temps too high generally isn't a result of not stuffing as much rad as possible in your case - it's a result of poor planning and design. Which, coincidentally, the whole "just stuff your case full of as many rads as possible" is. It shows a general lack of knowledge and understanding, and a simple "I'll just put in more stuff since it's easier than learning to put in the right stuff". And as we see here over and over....what stuff it is doesn't matter. Color rings matter more than cooling ability. Manufacturer says not to use that coolant with that pump - doesn't matter because it's all about the color.
> 
> There is no reformulation of "overkill" needed. If you are designing to cool, you don't have these issues, and you don't wind up with a case stuffed full of garbage components. "Overkill" is "overkill". It has nothing to do with "120mm per component". It has to do with where you are adding components for the sake of adding components. That point that those added components do nothing for your performance and only complicate the loop and add potential problems. That is not a matter of "perspective".


So performance first, looks maybe later?

I have been trying to find that combo for a time, but when dual Hardware Labs SR2 MP 480mm with EK Vardar F4-120ER 2200RPM wont get my temps below 50C (long folding result), then I need to think bigger. Granted 980Ti SLI OC and 5930K OC adds a lot of heat, but I know the temps can be lower (had 35-40C and 50-60C when I had twice as much rad space with 50% fan speed). So a bit more is needed, to reduce overall heat that lingers in the system.

So ether replace the bottom 480 with a 360 and put a 240 in front, plus 240 in back (if there is enough clearance) or hope the Enthoo Elite can handle more radiator space.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chiobe*
> 
> So performance first, looks maybe later?
> 
> I have been trying to find that combo for a time, but when dual Hardware Labs SR2 MP 480mm with EK Vardar F4-120ER 2200RPM wont get my temps below 50C (long folding result), then I need to think bigger. Granted 980Ti SLI OC and 5930K OC adds a lot of heat, but I know the temps can be lower (had 35-40C and 50-60C when I had twice as much rad space with 50% fan speed). So a bit more is needed, to reduce overall heat that lingers in the system.
> 
> So ether replace the bottom 480 with a 360 and put a 240 in front, plus 240 in back (if there is enough clearance) or hope the Enthoo Elite can handle more radiator space.


If you have two 480mm SR2 with 2200rpm Vardars and your liquid temps are getting over 50C, something else is going wrong.


----------



## arrow0309

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Chiobe*
> 
> So performance first, looks maybe later?
> 
> I have been trying to find that combo for a time, but when dual Hardware Labs SR2 MP 480mm with EK Vardar F4-120ER 2200RPM wont get my temps below 50C (long folding result), then I need to think bigger. Granted 980Ti SLI OC and 5930K OC adds a lot of heat, but I know the temps can be lower (had 35-40C and 50-60C when I had twice as much rad space with 50% fan speed). So a bit more is needed, to reduce overall heat that lingers in the system.
> 
> So ether replace the bottom 480 with a 360 and put a 240 in front, plus 240 in back (if there is enough clearance) or hope the Enthoo Elite can handle more radiator space.
> 
> 
> 
> If you have two 480mm SR2 with 2200rpm Vardars and your liquid temps are getting over 50C, something else is going wrong.
Click to expand...

I agree, definitely something's wrong, I'll check everyhthing, wb contacts, tim, thermal pads, flow.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *arrow0309*
> 
> I agree, definitely something's wrong, I'll check everyhthing, wb contacts, tim, thermal pads, flow.


It might be worth checking the temperature of your airflow going into radiators and that you have a balance of airflow into and out of case. How is your airflow set up?


----------



## arrow0309

OK, one more question about the Evolv Atx, will it accommodate an XT45 (or similar height rad) with three 120x25mm fans (under the rad) on the top?
Will the clearance be enough for my 4x8gb TridentX memory or I'll have to remove their top heatsink?

Edit:
Found this pic from an Italian user:

http://i.imgur.com/x5fgJtr.jpg

I better try to reach him and get some answers.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *arrow0309*
> 
> OK, one more question about the Evolv Atx, will it accommodate an XT45 (or similar height rad) with three 120x25mm fans (under the rad) on the top?
> Will the clearance be enough for my 4x8gb TridentX memory or I'll have to remove their top heatsink?


That will fit with no issue with that RAM.


----------



## TeslaHUN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chiobe*
> 
> So ether replace the bottom 480 with a 360 and put a 240 in front, plus 240 in back (if there is enough clearance) or hope the Enthoo Elite can handle more radiator space.


if u need more rad space , choose TT Core x9


----------



## Chiobe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> If you have two 480mm SR2 with 2200rpm Vardars and your liquid temps are getting over 50C, something else is going wrong.


I'm not sure if water temp get that high, but I can feel the air out of the system being hotter when its run a while, even when the CPU (70C) and GPUs (50C) stays at the same temp.
Might need to drain it and mount a temp sensor somewhere.

I dont think airflow is the issue: 2x Phanteks 140mm (came with case) + 2x bequiet silent wings 2 120mm as extra intake and another Phanteks 140mm as extra out take.
Granted, the bottom rad dont get 100% of the airflow, as its too wide to fit (zip tied in), but it should still get at least 80% of the airflow.


----------



## Chiobe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TeslaHUN*
> 
> if u need more rad space , choose TT Core x9


I have already built in it once and I dont want to repeat the experience, as aldo the case can handle a lot of hardware, it dont give you enough space to reach everything (including fittings, which is fun when trying to build a water cooling loop).


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TeslaHUN*
> 
> if u need more rad space , choose TT Core x9


LOL. Too funny!









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chiobe*
> 
> I'm not sure if water temp get that high, but I can feel the air out of the system being hotter when its run a while, even when the CPU (70C) and GPUs (50C) stays at the same temp.
> Might need to drain it and mount a temp sensor somewhere.
> 
> I dont think airflow is the issue: 2x Phanteks 140mm (came with case) + 2x bequiet silent wings 2 120mm as extra intake and another Phanteks 140mm as extra out take.
> Granted, the bottom rad dont get 100% of the airflow, as its too wide to fit (zip tied in), but it should still get at least 80% of the airflow.


I'm confused - how are the rad fans mounted, intake on the bottom and exhaust on the top?

Something to keep in mind - those 2200rpm Vardars each have about the same CFM capabilities as each of the 140mm Phanteks, and far more than the BQs. I'll hold off saying anything else until you post up what is going on there as far as the Vardars being intake or exhaust.


----------



## Chiobe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> I'm confused - how are the rad fans mounted, intake on the bottom and exhaust on the top?
> 
> Something to keep in mind - those 2200rpm Vardars each have about the same CFM capabilities as each of the 140mm Phanteks, and far more than the BQs. I'll hold off saying anything else until you post up what is going on there as far as the Vardars being intake or exhaust.


4 Vardar under bottom rad and 4 Vardar above top rad. Intake bottom and front + side, out at top and back.


----------



## arrow0309

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chiobe*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> I'm confused - how are the rad fans mounted, intake on the bottom and exhaust on the top?
> 
> Something to keep in mind - those 2200rpm Vardars each have about the same CFM capabilities as each of the 140mm Phanteks, and far more than the BQs. I'll hold off saying anything else until you post up what is going on there as far as the Vardars being intake or exhaust.
> 
> 
> 
> 4 Vardar under bottom rad and 4 Vardar above top rad. Intake bottom and front + side, out at top and back.
Click to expand...

Try to invert the rear fan to intake.
The huge 480 rad with its 4 fans will be more than enough for the exhaust


----------



## Chiobe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *arrow0309*
> 
> Try to invert the rear fan to intake.
> The huge 480 rad with its 4 fans will be more than enough for the exhaust


I got 8 fans (4 vardar, 2 phanteks and 2 bequiet) as intake and 5 fans (4 vardar and 1 phanteks) as exhaust overall.
So it should not be starved for air, unless the different fans causes an issue.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chiobe*
> 
> 4 Vardar under bottom rad and 4 Vardar above top rad. Intake bottom and front + side, out at top and back.


That sounds like it should be the best solution. Not sure why you have the fans on the top rad in pull, but it shouldn't make that much of a difference.

Many have stated that running the top and bottom rads as intake produced the best results. That wasn't the case in my Primo, but it could be worth a shot. Also, getting the Primo ~30mm up off the floor makes a noticeable difference on bottom intake. Also, those two BQ on the side likely aren't doing any good, and my well be doing harm. Try disconnecting them to see if it makes a difference.

Other than that, you really need to get a thermometer in the case and see what is going on with the temps in there, as well as knowing what your liquid temps are. Without knowing what is going on with the in case temps, it's really hard to say.


----------



## Chiobe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> That sounds like it should be the best solution. Not sure why you have the fans on the top rad in pull, but it shouldn't make that much of a difference.
> 
> Many have stated that running the top and bottom rads as intake produced the best results. That wasn't the case in my Primo, but it could be worth a shot. Also, getting the Primo ~30mm up off the floor makes a noticeable difference on bottom intake. Also, those two BQ on the side likely aren't doing any good, and my well be doing harm. Try disconnecting them to see if it makes a difference.
> 
> Other than that, you really need to get a thermometer in the case and see what is going on with the temps in there, as well as knowing what your liquid temps are. Without knowing what is going on with the in case temps, it's really hard to say.


The reason the fans on the top rad are in pull, is because the extra ports on the rad means I could not mount it against the case without cutting a hole for the ports.

I just added in the 2 bequiet fans, since I didnt have any other 3-pin fans to use. Though there airflow would be better then no airflow.

But most likely so is the bottom intake not good enough, cutting my cooling potential by even more. So it looks like I will be looking for another case, hopefully one with better airflow through all the rads.


----------



## dlewbell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *arrow0309*
> 
> Ok, yeah the Luxe has its "pro's" and I like it (and it also costs less than the Evolv, around £20 less)
> Also removing the 200mm front fan won't be an issue nor the two hdd cages.
> But can you confirm me it will accommodate my 280mm rad in the front (better if in p/p)?
> I see you can also remove the black frontal plate that covers the hdd cages.


The Luxe is going to have very limited support for 280mm front Radiators. It will only be able to fit 280mm radiators that don't overhand the fans on one end, & even then, you'll have to remove the 5 1/4" bay to allow it to fit on the other end. If you need an actual measurement, let me know & I'll drag it out & check from the right panel.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *arrow0309*
> 
> Hmm, I can see there are the holes for a double 140mm fan on the bottom:
> 
> http://www.pcgameware.co.uk/images/Phanteks-Enthoo-Luxe-bottom-filters.jpg
> 
> But I'm not sure if my Evga Supernova G2 850W will also fit there.
> Can see (hardly) a 240mm rad setup here:
> 
> http://cdn.overclock.net/9/9b/9b7b3440_image.jpeg
> 
> But I'm not sure my psu & some cables + a 280 rad will fit just fine.


It looks like there are holes for 2x140mm in the bottom, but it actually doesn't work out that way. I put a 140mm fan in using the forward holes and the middle slots, & it blocks the remainder of the middle slots. You would have to drill new holes for the second fan to fit between the front one & the PSU. If you wanted to just use a 140mm rad, it could sit in the back position & likely clear a front rad (if one fit) without any drilling, but the factory holes do not work for a 280mm in the bottom.


----------



## doyll

What ciarlatano said about Primo bottom airflow.








Setting on hard floor there is less than 91 sq cm of airflow area to bottom of case .. without taking into account the 30-40% loss from grill mess airflow restriction.

For comparison, a single 120mm fan has about 100 sq cm of airflow area; a 140mm fan has about 140 sq cm.
Raising case 33mm adds about 420 sq cm of airflow area
Raising case 40mm adds about 514 sq cm of airflow area.
http://www.overclock.net/t/1418637/official-case-phanteks-case-club-for-lovers-owners/14760_20#post_25457818


----------



## TeslaHUN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chiobe*


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> What ciarlatano said about Primo bottom airflow.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Setting on hard floor there is less than 91 sq cm of airflow area to bottom of case .. without taking into account the 30-40% loss from grill mess airflow restriction.
> 
> For comparison, a single 120mm fan has about 100 sq cm of airflow area; a 140mm fan has about 140 sq cm.
> Raising case 33mm adds about 420 sq cm of airflow area
> Raising case 40mm adds about 514 sq cm of airflow area.
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1418637/official-case-phanteks-case-club-for-lovers-owners/14760_20#post_25457818


I can confirm that theory , i raised my Primo with 3cm , and my tems dropped by 4-5 Celsius . Now the bottom fans can breathe easy


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TeslaHUN*
> 
> I can confirm that theory , i raised my Primo with 3cm , and my tems dropped by 4-5 Celsius . Now the bottom fans can breathe easy


Theory??? This ain't no stinkin' theory!









I suspect your fan noise levels are quieter now as well?


----------



## arrow0309

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dlewbell*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *arrow0309*
> 
> Ok, yeah the Luxe has its "pro's" and I like it (and it also costs less than the Evolv, around £20 less)
> Also removing the 200mm front fan won't be an issue nor the two hdd cages.
> But can you confirm me it will accommodate my 280mm rad in the front (better if in p/p)?
> I see you can also remove the black frontal plate that covers the hdd cages.
> 
> 
> 
> The Luxe is going to have very limited support for 280mm front Radiators. It will only be able to fit 280mm radiators that don't overhand the fans on one end, & even then, you'll have to remove the 5 1/4" bay to allow it to fit on the other end. If you need an actual measurement, let me know & I'll drag it out & check from the right panel.
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *arrow0309*
> 
> Hmm, I can see there are the holes for a double 140mm fan on the bottom:
> 
> http://www.pcgameware.co.uk/images/Phanteks-Enthoo-Luxe-bottom-filters.jpg
> 
> But I'm not sure if my Evga Supernova G2 850W will also fit there.
> Can see (hardly) a 240mm rad setup here:
> 
> http://cdn.overclock.net/9/9b/9b7b3440_image.jpeg
> 
> But I'm not sure my psu & some cables + a 280 rad will fit just fine.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> It looks like there are holes for 2x140mm in the bottom, but it actually doesn't work out that way. I put a 140mm fan in using the forward holes and the middle slots, & it blocks the remainder of the middle slots. You would have to drill new holes for the second fan to fit between the front one & the PSU. If you wanted to just use a 140mm rad, it could sit in the back position & likely clear a front rad (if one fit) without any drilling, but the factory holes do not work for a 280mm in the bottom.
Click to expand...

Hmm, maybe I can still consider the Luxe with a 240 front and a 140 bottom rads (and of course, a top 360 rad) "shrinking" that way my Primo but without loosing nothing in temps, airflow and look.
Alternatively I just looked (yesterday evening) a little at those new Thermaltake Core X31 Riing Rgb or the Core M2, both a bit interesting, offering lots of possibilities but Imao not at the same level as the Phanteks, both quality speaking and the overall look as well.
Man, it's a tough decision I've to take.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *arrow0309*
> 
> Hmm, maybe I can still consider the Luxe with a 240 front and a 140 bottom rads (and of course, a top 360 rad) "shrinking" that way my Primo but without loosing nothing in temps, airflow and look.
> Alternatively I just looked (yesterday evening) a little at those new Thermaltake Core X31 Riing Rgb or the Core M2, both a bit interesting, offering lots of possibilities but Imao not at the same level as the Phanteks, both quality speaking and the overall look as well.
> Man, it's a tough decision I've to take.


Bill over at Mnpctech did a nice video review of the Luxe


----------



## xTesla1856

The Luxe truly is a great case. I'm in love with mine! Parts are in my sig.


----------



## TeslaHUN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Theory??? This ain't no stinkin' theory!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I suspect your fan noise levels are quieter now as well?


Nop ,my fans are spinning the same rpm as before . In total i have 11 fan, but my system is quiet as hell








3x 12cm Akasa Apache intake on bottom radiator / 2x Aerocool DeadSilence 14cm intake in front /1x Akasa Viper12cm in front of VGA / 3x TY 147A 14cm on top radiator /1x TY 147A in back of the case . /+1 extra TY147A on top radiator's other side.


----------



## dmfree88

Just noticed you guys were talking about the Mayhems pastels and the color changes that have happened. What I have heard is the color changes are usually only in the red colors (red, purple, orange etc) and that ones like green and blue don't seem to have as much of an issue. I have also heard recently that Mayhems is reformulating the pastels and attempting to fix the issue. Not sure how soon they will be released but hopefully the new formula works well.

Sorry







but hopefully that's good news for some of you


----------



## Chiobe

Is it just me or does it look like the front has barley any airflow?


I really dont know whats its up with cases supporting water cooling but not airflow these days. It might be fine for stock gaming systems, but not for overclocked enthusiast systems. Guess I need to ether mod or go custom to get something with decent airflow.


----------



## statyksyn

Just wanted to show how this system looks in action. The mayhems aurora is pretty awesome

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chiobe*
> 
> Is it just me or does it look like the front has barley any airflow?
> 
> 
> I really dont know whats its up with cases supporting water cooling but not airflow these days. It might be fine for stock gaming systems, but not for overclocked enthusiast systems. Guess I need to ether mod or go custom to get something with decent airflow.


there is a 30 mm+ gap along both sides of the top and front panels. many cases are designed like this with solid front panels, fractal's define series for example.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PureBlackFire*
> 
> there is a 30 mm+ gap along both sides of the top and front panels. many cases are designed like this with solid front panels, fractal's define series for example.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I agree there are side gaps and it s a common design, but 30mm??








Sound rather exaggerated to me .. kinda like that big fish you caught. You know, the one that was 36 inches long and 15 pounds .. but by the time it got home it was 16 inchs and 7 pounds. I know, it was so hot and dry it dried up / shrank to much smaller.


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> I agree there are side gaps and it s a common design, but 30mm??
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sound rather exaggerated to me .. kinda like that big fish you caught. You know, the one that was 36 inches long and 15 pounds .. but by the time it got home it was 16 inchs and 7 pounds. I know, it was so hot and dry it dried up / shrank to much smaller.


hey now, I am using an extrapolation method passed down from generation to generation to determine this figure. maybe it hasn't held up with the passage of time lol.


----------



## Chiobe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PureBlackFire*
> 
> there is a 30 mm+ gap along both sides of the top and front panels. many cases are designed like this with solid front panels, fractal's define series for example.


Even at 30mm per side, so is that still less then half the surface area of the 560mm radiator they got in front.
Meaning I now got a 240mm or so effective radiator, in terms of airflow. Which is what is killing me on atm in the Primo (plus that it cant fit "normal" 130mm wide radiators in bottom).

So guess that means that Phanteks got no stock offerings for open airflow design (nothing besides dust filter and a little mesh blocking the radiator). At least not that supports enough cooling (8x 120mm).
And no way in hell that I spend $699 on a case and then another few $100 on having it modded.


----------



## JeskeJL02

Just finished up my enthoo luxe build yesterday.


----------



## TeslaHUN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chiobe*
> 
> Even at 30mm per side, so is that still less then half the surface area of the 560mm radiator they got in front.
> Meaning I now got a 240mm or so effective radiator, in terms of airflow. Which is what is killing me on atm in the Primo (plus that it cant fit "normal" 130mm wide radiators in bottom).
> 
> So guess that means that Phanteks got no stock offerings for open airflow design (nothing besides dust filter and a little mesh blocking the radiator). At least not that supports enough cooling (8x 120mm).
> And no way in hell that I spend $699 on a case and then another few $100 on having it modded.


In Primo there is no blocked radiator space at all . U mean the front panel ? U can remove the front plastic cover with 4 screw ,so only dustfilter + grill block the airflow.

+u can rise the case by 3-4 cm for better airflow on bottom.


----------



## Chiobe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TeslaHUN*
> 
> In Primo there is no blocked radiator space at all . U mean the front panel ? U can remove the front plastic cover with 4 screw ,so only dustfilter + grill block the airflow.
> 
> +u can rise the case by 3-4 cm for better airflow on bottom.


I still consider that blocked airflow, as you have to do something to improve it.

Even if I make the changes needed for airflow and switch radiators, so will the layout presents challenges. I mean, I need to take the water loop apart just to be able to add another SSD, with current config.


----------



## TeslaHUN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chiobe*
> 
> I still consider that blocked airflow, as you have to do something to improve it.
> Even if I make the changes needed for airflow and switch radiators, so will the layout presents challenges. I mean, I need to take the water loop apart just to be able to add another SSD, with current config.


To do 4 unscrewing ,i wouldnt call it a big job. You must be lazy as hell








How is that possible that u need to take apart the watercooling to install 1 ssd in Primo ? Anyway i didnt even screw in my SSD ,its just hanging on the sata cable


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JeskeJL02*
> 
> Just finished up my enthoo luxe build yesterday.


I love those tubing runs. Very uniform.


----------



## Chiobe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TeslaHUN*
> 
> To do 4 unscrewing ,i wouldnt call it a big job. You must be lazy as hell
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> How is that possible that u need to take apart the watercooling to install 1 ssd in Primo ? Anyway i didnt even screw in my SSD ,its just hanging on the sata cable


Among other things, so do I have a big reservoir in the way, not to mention a lot of cables. Meaning I need to remove a lot of stuff, to even get my fingers in and put in the sata cable.

Also, it has nothing to do with being lazy, but the fact that the case is not designed that way (its meant to come apart, so you can wash the dust filer, nothing else). Meaning you need to do something about it, to fix the issue.

Edit:
Just to get my point across, if most of the case can come apart, so dont that mean its designed to be used in that state. Even if its something easy to do, its still a modification of the way the case was meant to be used.


----------



## JeskeJL02

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> I love those tubing runs. Very uniform.


Thanks, it was my first time working with rigid tubing. Took 7 hours and 8 meters of PETG, but I'm really happy with the result!


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chiobe*
> 
> Among other things, so do I have a big reservoir in the way, not to mention a lot of cables. Meaning I need to remove a lot of stuff, to even get my fingers in and put in the sata cable.
> 
> Also, it has nothing to do with being lazy, but the fact that the case is not designed that way (its meant to come apart, so you can wash the dust filer, nothing else). Meaning you need to do something about it, to fix the issue.
> 
> Edit:
> Just to get my point across, if most of the case can come apart, so dont that mean its designed to be used in that state. Even if its something easy to do, its still a modification of the way the case was meant to be used.


i removed my front because i didnt like that it looked like a cabinet door but...im thinking if you have that many cables in the way of the ssd it probably isnt cable managed very well...i have two ssds and a hard drive as well as two fan controllers and water cooling soft tubing running in the back and i have zero issues getting to the ssds... granted my reservoir isnt but a 100mm but still the ssds dont mount in the drive bays or the front if they do you arent using the case the way it was designed....or something


----------



## Chiobe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> i removed my front because i didnt like that it looked like a cabinet door but...im thinking if you have that many cables in the way of the ssd it probably isnt cable managed very well...i have two ssds and a hard drive as well as two fan controllers and water cooling soft tubing running in the back and i have zero issues getting to the ssds... granted my reservoir isnt but a 100mm but still the ssds dont mount in the drive bays or the front if they do you arent using the case the way it was designed....or something


The front is a no go, thanks to my 320mm reservoir.

The back is very crowded as well, thanks to extensions and lots of stuff in the case.

So almost impossible with current setup.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chiobe*
> 
> The front is a no go, thanks to my 320mm reservoir.
> 
> The back is very crowded as well, thanks to extensions and lots of stuff in the case.
> 
> 
> And with the plans to add a 240mm to the fan braket, so will it be 100% blocked.


wow that is a lot of cable...ive got an h220x on that 240 mount and a 480 in the bottom with a 420 in the top...its not bad but i didnt have to remove the side panel for my rad...im also using a fan mounted pump/res bracket to give more room in that area...not for moving drives so much as for easier jumping of the 24 pin with everthing installed for maintenance and leak testing...both of my ssds are mounted to the slide on bracket and the hard drive is mounted to the back of the 5.25 bays...i need to buy more tubing as i have my tubing routed around the back of the mb for that long run...and it needs to be routed differently but it comes up short


----------



## TeslaHUN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chiobe*
> 
> Also, it has nothing to do with being lazy, but the fact that the case is not designed that way (its meant to come apart, so you can wash the dust filer, nothing else). Meaning you need to do something about it, to fix the issue.
> 
> Edit:
> Just to get my point across, if most of the case can come apart, so dont that mean its designed to be used in that state. Even if its something easy to do, its still a modification of the way the case was meant to be used.


The front plastic has nothing to do with dust filter , dust filter can be removed by popping out from its frame, and the plastic front cover still stay in place, secured with 4 screw....wich u can remove if u want more airflow over the looks...

So lets say in 



 case the manufacturer designed the case to be completely closed on the top ? Bcoz when u unbox the case , the top covers are installed , but u must remove them from inside, if u want airflow on top.
Its called "user's choice" or modularity ..... not factory design


----------



## Chiobe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TeslaHUN*
> 
> The front plastic has nothing to do with dust filter , dust filter can be removed by popping out from its frame, and the plastic front cover still stay in place, secured with 4 screw....wich u can remove if u want more airflow over the looks...
> 
> So lets say in
> 
> 
> 
> case the manufacturer designed the case to be completely closed on the top ? Bcoz when u unbox the case , the top covers are installed , but u must remove them from inside, if u want airflow on top.
> Its called "user's choice" or modularity ..... not factory design


I would still argue that its something they did, so you can clean the mesh it self. But that is just me.

Anyway, a few 2cm thick books (no timber laying around) and a few screws, should prevent my system from cooking it self at least.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chiobe*
> 
> I would still argue that its something they did, so you can clean the mesh it self. But that is just me.
> 
> Anyway, a few 2cm thick books (no timber laying around) and a few screws, should prevent my system from cooking it self at least.


im going to make a base from plastic stock i think...two runners with notches that match the stock feet...about two inches high to be safe...pc sits on the desk so no need for casters or anything fancy...might paint it green to match the green of my primo


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chiobe*
> 
> Among other things, so do I have a big reservoir in the way, not to mention a lot of cables. Meaning I need to remove a lot of stuff, to even get my fingers in and put in the sata cable.
> 
> Also, it has nothing to do with being lazy, but the fact that the case is not designed that way (its meant to come apart, so you can wash the dust filer, nothing else). Meaning you need to do something about it, to fix the issue.
> 
> Edit:
> Just to get my point across, if most of the case can come apart, so dont that mean its designed to be used in that state. Even if its something easy to do, its still a modification of the way the case was meant to be used.


To me part of planning out a build is using a layout that allows maintenance. As in not blocking access with components like big reservoirs that have no real purpose.

What case is 'designed' for a custom build? The reason some of the best cases are assembled with screws is to make modding them to individual needs easier. "Custom" but simple definition means there is no such thing as a 'one case fits all'.









Am I understanding your edit logic correctly? Are you are saying "If something can be taken apart, it should not be assembled." ??
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> im going to make a base from plastic stock i think...two runners with notches that match the stock feet...about two inches high to be safe...pc sits on the desk so no need for casters or anything fancy...might paint it green to match the green of my primo


Runners may be problematic. The case base ssides are about 32mm wide, so 52mm tall blocks might tip the runners. I suggest a open frame like I use for my castor bases with blocks instead of castors.


----------



## Chiobe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> To me part of planning out a build is using a layout that allows maintenance. As in not blocking access with components like big reservoirs that have no real purpose.
> 
> What case is 'designed' for a custom build? The reason some of the best cases are assembled with screws is to make modding them to individual needs easier. "Custom" but simple definition means there is no such thing as a 'one case fits all'.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Am I understanding your edit logic correctly? Are you are saying "If something can be taken apart, it should not be assembled." ??


The point was, that just because its can be taken apart, dont mean its meant to be used that way.

Its true that the reservoir dont serve any point beyond looks, but I wanted it in there. Anyway, the builds need a redo if I stick with the case, so moving the reservoir to one of the radiators or on the back wall besides the GPUs, should make room for easier access. Plus I need new PSU cables, so I can get rid of the extensions. Not to mention new fans and radiators.

But I'm not doing anything, before I have found a solution to the airflow issue. Putting the case on something lose, is not a long therm fix.


----------



## arrow0309

Hi guys, so I needed a case for a micro-atx main board that wouldn't makes me regret much my beloved Primo, I needed a small yet big case.
So I've just taken from Scan the Enthoo Mini XL















I'm sure I'm gonna love it too


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Runners may be problematic. The case base ssides are about 32mm wide, so 52mm tall blocks might tip the runners. I suggest a open frame like I use for my castor bases with blocks instead of castors.


right i got you...might make the case "top heavy" that wouldn't be good...im kicking around a few ideas...either way she will be raised soon...


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *arrow0309*
> 
> Hi guys, so I needed a case for a micro-atx main board that wouldn't makes me regret much my beloved Primo, I needed a small yet big case.
> So I've just taken from Scan the Enthoo Mini XL
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm sure I'm gonna love it too


I think you are in for a surprise at just how big the Mini XL (
260 mm x 550 mm x 480 mm) is. While it's not as tall or as deep, it is wider then Primo (250mm x 650mm x 600mm)
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> right i got you...might make the case "top heavy" that wouldn't be good...im kicking around a few ideas...either way she will be raised soon...


I've had mine on a caster base all it's life an never had any 'top heavy' problems . and casters turn under the case making the base even more 'top heavy'.


----------



## arrow0309

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *arrow0309*
> 
> Hi guys, so I needed a case for a micro-atx main board that wouldn't makes me regret much my beloved Primo, I needed a small yet big case.
> So I've just taken from Scan the Enthoo Mini XL
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm sure I'm gonna love it too
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think you are in for a surprise at just how big the Mini XL (
> 260 mm x 550 mm x 480 mm) is. While it's not as tall or as deep, it is wider then Primo (250mm x 650mm x 600mm)
Click to expand...

Excellent!
I've already read about it a little









Do ya guys know something about the bottom radiator clearance of the mini xl when an alphacool 280mm XT45 with two fans is placed there?
I'm on a single gpu (1080 strix with bitspower 1080 full cover) for now.

Otherwise I'll have to put it on the rear position but I wanted to install a slim, 240 x 30mm rad with 2 fans there


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *arrow0309*
> 
> Excellent!
> I've already read about it a little
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Do ya guys know something about the bottom radiator clearance of the mini xl when an alphacool 280mm XT45 with two fans is placed there?
> I'm on a single gpu (1080 strix with bitspower 1080 full cover) for now.
> 
> Otherwise I'll have to put it on the rear position but I wanted to install a slim, 240 x 30mm rad with 2 fans there


I've had Primo from first release. Got MiniXL last spring and was surprised how big it is. I just wish it came in a ATX layout.


----------



## springs113

So I just got my Evolv ATX TG, pleasantly surprised and disappointed at the same time. The case is lovely small like Thermaltake Urban 71/750D but loads more room some how. The only gripe I have is that an edge on my TG panel as a minor chip...no biggie as the panels are reversible so if I were to switch them no would notice unless feeling the glass itself. Only problem is...OCD is kicking in and I don't know if I should return it or just keep it and ask for a reduction in price. I will also be modding this case as I have a R5E10 mobo and I will not settle on no it cant fit.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *springs113*
> 
> So I just got my Evolv ATX TG, pleasantly surprised and disappointed at the same time. The case is lovely small like Thermaltake Urban 71/750D but loads more room some how. The only gripe I have is that an edge on my TG panel as a minor chip...no biggie as the panels are reversible so if I were to switch them no would notice unless feeling the glass itself. Only problem is...OCD is kicking in and I don't know if I should return it or just keep it and ask for a reduction in price. I will also be modding this case as I have a R5E10 mobo and I will not settle on no it cant fit.


Contact Phanteks customer service. You may be very pleasantly surprised by the outcome.


----------



## springs113

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Contact Phanteks customer service. You may be very pleasantly surprised by the outcome.


I know but since i just ordered the case 2 days ago I don't mind contacting the seller(Amzn). I really wanted the Elite but thhe size n especially the price will be a turn off.


----------



## arrow0309

According to this pic I have a lot of clearance not only in height to install my 280 mm rad XT45 (assuming I'm not gonna install any other card except for my 1080 Strix @Bitspower Strix like i said) but there's also a lot of room between the rad and the lower part of the motherboard for cables a hidden tube











So I'll take it for granted as the final position for my 280 x 45mm alphacool rad in push intake


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *springs113*
> 
> I know but since i just ordered the case 2 days ago I don't mind contacting the seller(Amzn). I really wanted the Elite but thhe size n especially the price will be a turn off.


Amazon does not have the ability to send you a single panel......


----------



## arrow0309

And have (just) taken something else for my setup:



The XSPC RX360 V3 is exactly the same (top position) rad from the ModZoo review:

http://themodzoo.com/2015/02/enthoo-mini-xl-review/6/

Giving me enough performance but even clearance to use the two bottom 5.25" bays









As for the third slim 240mm (EX240) rad I still have to decide it live, with the case in front of me, to install it either on the front (or front side like the one in the review above) or on the rear.


----------



## springs113

Yes but $50 off the case is substantial


----------



## kovyrshin

I don't know how I've missed the Evolv ATX case, while I was searching for nice looking case for my workstation/AIO build.
I have some question about the fit though.

1. If there's room for radiator in front, when using HDD brackets?
Or there's no clearance.
2. EATX in case? Manual says max width is 264mm wide. But max clearance for videocard is 300mm with HDD brackets installed.
I guess 300mm wide board will cover cable management holes, but still want to ask someone post a pic with ruler.
3. Any chance I can get a Tempered glass case with solid back panel? No matter how cool is your cable management, I'd prefer to hide it. But I like big window though.

ps. Yeah, you got it: idea to fit bigger board with lots of HDDs in EVOLV. ATX.


----------



## dlewbell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kovyrshin*
> 
> I don't know how I've missed the Evolv ATX case, while I was searching for nice looking case for my workstation/AIO build.
> I have some question about the fit though.
> 
> 1. If there's room for radiator in front, when using HDD brackets?
> Or there's no clearance.
> 2. EATX in case? Manual says max width is 264mm wide. But max clearance for videocard is 300mm with HDD brackets installed.
> I guess 300mm wide board will cover cable management holes, but still want to ask someone post a pic with ruler.
> 3. Any chance I can get a Tempered glass case with solid back panel? No matter how cool is your cable management, I'd prefer to hide it. But I like big window though.
> 
> ps. Yeah, you got it: idea to fit bigger board with lots of HDDs in EVOLV. ATX.


1. You can fit a 240mm rad in the front while using the HDD cage in the bottom. You might be able to fit a 280mm the same way, but I don't have a way to verify. Someone with the case may be able to answer. If you're just wanting to use the top hanging HDD bracket, you can remove the bottom cage & fit up to a 280mm rad in the front.
2. EATX up to 272mm has been done, but fitment will vary depending on exact motherboard. The example I've seen required removal of LEDs. See this post for more details: http://www.overclock.net/t/1418637/official-case-phanteks-case-club-for-lovers-owners/14320_20#post_25359730
3. Tempered glass is only available clear on both sides. If you want the back to be opaque, consider adding vinyl to the back of the glass.


----------



## kovyrshin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dlewbell*
> 
> 1. You can fit a 240mm rad in the front while using the HDD cage in the bottom. You might be able to fit a 280mm the same way, but I don't have a way to verify. Someone with the case may be able to answer. If you're just wanting to use the top hanging HDD bracket, you can remove the bottom cage & fit up to a 280mm rad in the front.
> 2. EATX up to 272mm has been done, but fitment will vary depending on exact motherboard. The example I've seen required removal of LEDs. See this post for more details: http://www.overclock.net/t/1418637/official-case-phanteks-case-club-for-lovers-owners/14320_20#post_25359730
> 3. Tempered glass is only available clear on both sides. If you want the back to be opaque, consider adding vinyl to the back of the glass.


1. It will be 4+ HDDs there. I understand that I can use one cage. No big deal though. Just wanted to clarify that.
2. Great link. according to 1st photo, mother board back plate is not even, right? I mean it metal plate, where HDD brackets attaches to is closer to the left panel.
So for example, there's no way to install EATX 12x13 mobo. Ir regular case you don't have stands for right holes, but here' it simply won't fit.
Here's a better pic: 
3. Got it. Will go with regular version then.


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kovyrshin*
> 
> I don't know how I've missed the Evolv ATX case, while I was searching for nice looking case for my workstation/AIO build.
> I have some question about the fit though.
> 
> 1. If there's room for radiator in front, when using HDD brackets?
> Or there's no clearance.
> 2. EATX in case? Manual says max width is 264mm wide. But max clearance for videocard is 300mm with HDD brackets installed.
> I guess 300mm wide board will cover cable management holes, but still want to ask someone post a pic with ruler.
> 3. Any chance I can get a Tempered glass case with solid back panel? No matter how cool is your cable management, I'd prefer to hide it. But I like big window though.
> 
> ps. Yeah, you got it: idea to fit bigger board with lots of HDDs in EVOLV. ATX.


1. 240mm = yes. 280mm = depends on rad size. Please note one is not required to use HDD mounts. It isn't hard to make a DIY mount (my build). I would recommend industrial velcro (HDD won't move even if the case is upside down). You could fit 4 HDDs (2x2) in the bottom with this method. While it isn't that great looking, you could also mount a drive on the PSU cover (screws through existing holes + rubber washers).
2. Boards with backplates will likely not work or require you to remove the backplate (Asus R V10). Probably a good idea to find diagrams or scale pictures online of the case and the mobo to get a rough idea.
3. Just tape (on the black areas) something dark to the backside of the glass.

Of course you could always top mount a rad and use all the front HDD mounts.


----------



## kovyrshin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> 1. 240mm = yes. 280mm = depends on rad size. Please note one is not required to use HDD mounts. It isn't hard to make a DIY mount (my build). I would recommend industrial velcro (HDD won't move even if the case is upside down). You could fit 4 HDDs (2x2) in the bottom with this method. While it isn't that great looking, you could also mount a drive on the PSU cover (screws through existing holes + rubber washers).
> 2. Boards with backplates will likely not work or require you to remove the backplate (Asus R V10). Probably a good idea to find diagrams or scale pictures online of the case and the mobo to get a rough idea.
> 3. Just tape (on the black areas) something dark to the backside of the glass.
> 
> Of course you could always top mount a rad and use all the front HDD mounts.


Well I've replied that I'm planing to install severall HDDs, and prefer to place it next to fans. Case is perfect for that.
But I was also planning on using two 240/280 rads - that's not possible, if I put HDDs in brackets.

I see there's a way to install EATX board, but it will require some modding.

I wish there were "longer" version of that case: 420 or 480 rad on top. May be also taller, with 360 in front to keep nice proportions.


----------



## BigOne

I'm about to order a Mini Xl dual system. I'm currently in school for network security and wil be staring my my networking classes in a couple of months. And I'm hoping this case will solve my gaming pc and virtual machine pc issue with limited space. My question is, what are people running for coolers? I am planning on running a 92mm noctua cooler with an i7 for my VM machine, but I don't know what cooler to run for my gaming machines. I was running a full water loop, and loved the temp and being quiet. But don't want to risk losing both machines if something leaks. By default is to run a phanteks or noctua 120mm cooler. I will be running a sfx psu for the i7 machine, and will be running a gtx 1070 for the gaming machine. Is there enough room for a 120mm AIO in the floor? Reading reviews say that the radiator won't fit on the 120mm rear exhaust fan location. Thanks for any info.

Edit: Hard drive bays have to stay.


----------



## Chiobe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BigOne*
> 
> I'm about to order a Mini Xl dual system.


You might want to wait, as they will come out with a new version this month or next, if the sources from Computex is correct.

A small preview here (20 sec in):


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kovyrshin*
> 
> Well I've replied that I'm planing to install severall HDDs, and prefer to place it next to fans. Case is perfect for that.
> But I was also planning on using two 240/280 rads - that's not possible, if I put HDDs in brackets.
> 
> I see there's a way to install EATX board, but it will require some modding.
> 
> I wish there were "longer" version of that case: 420 or 480 rad on top. May be also taller, with 360 in front to keep nice proportions.


You could do a 360mm rad up top and a 140mm rad in the back and all your HDD's up front. That should be more than enough for a CPU/GPU loop and even a little overclocking. I would go with a HWL GTS 360mm up top and an EK CE 140 on the back. Now if you are planning on doing SLI in your loop with the HDDs then maybe a full size case should be on your radar.


----------



## kovyrshin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> You could do a 360mm rad up top and a 140mm rad in the back and all your HDD's up front. That should be more than enough for a CPU/GPU loop and even a little overclocking. I would go with a HWL GTS 360mm up top and an EK CE 140 on the back. Now if you are planning on doing SLI in your loop with the HDDs then maybe a full size case should be on your radar.


I'm planning dual CPU rig, with possible AIO cooling.There's a chance I can install two 240 AIOs in place of 420 rad.
360 is good, but that requires building liquid cooling system. I've never done that, and I don't really wanna do that for 24/7 rig.

I'm not planning SLI, but it will be several videocards. One might be with 120/140 AIO cooler. Other videocards will lower end.

I can get away if I go with ATX-sized mobo. But if I go with EATX - EVOLV will require modding.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kovyrshin*
> 
> I'm planning dual CPU rig, with possible AIO cooling.There's a chance I can install two 240 AIOs in place of 420 rad.
> 360 is good, but that requires building liquid cooling system. I've never done that, and I don't really wanna do that for 24/7 rig.
> 
> I'm not planning SLI, but it will be several videocards. One might be with 120/140 AIO cooler. Other videocards will lower end.
> 
> I can get away if I go with ATX-sized mobo. But if I go with EATX - EVOLV will require modding.


If they are just AIO and not garbage CLC you will be okay. But why complicate the system with two of everything? If one fails system is out of service. Both Swiftech and EK Predator have pre-built and filled 360mm radiator AIOs .. and both are real water cooling, not garbage CLC.


----------



## kovyrshin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> If they are just AIO and not garbage CLC you will be okay. But why complicate the system with two of everything? If one fails system is out of service. Both Swiftech and EK Predator have pre-built and filled 360mm radiator AIOs .. and both are real water cooling, not garbage CLC.


Swiftech pre-build dual CPU AIO??? We're not talking about dual radiator. We're talking about two physical procesors.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kovyrshin*
> 
> Swiftech pre-build dual CPU AIO??? We're not talking about dual radiator. We're talking about two physical procesors.


I'm not quite dumb or drunk enough to not understand your original post.








First sentence says "they" .. you know, more than on.
Second sentense was ''everything" .. 2x CPU and 2x CLCs .. that is 2x pumps, 2x waterblocks, 2x radiators.

So yes you were talking about 2 radiators .. as in two physical radiators .. one in each CLC.
















All you need to do with a Swiftech or EK Predator is ass a 2nd waterblock.

Adding a waterblock, topping up the coolant and leak testing is not rocket science.
If adding that 2nd waterblock is too complicated for your skill level, I don't think you should be considering any kind of water cooling .. probably shouldn't be assembling computer systems either.







.

Seriously, it's not hard to do. Especially with all the help from knowledgeable people here on the forum who will gladly help you.

You probably don't even need more than a 280 radiator. I'm assuming you are using Xeon CPUs, and they are about 100w TDP each.


----------



## kovyrshin

That's a good point, I'm still a bit sceptical about adding second block myself.
Good thing is that EKWB or swiftech rad should be better, then typical 140 AIO. Stock Xeon are up to 160W, but I'm looking at 105-125W models.
Have to do math, don't want to spend way much, on the cooling.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> I think you are in for a surprise at just how big the Mini XL (
> 260 mm x 550 mm x 480 mm) is. While it's not as tall or as deep, it is wider then Primo (250mm x 650mm x 600mm)
> 
> I've had mine on a caster base all it's life an never had any 'top heavy' problems . and casters turn under the case making the base even more 'top heavy'.


i meant the runners not supporting the weight evenly...then tipping or folding under the weight...in some cases wider is better...


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kovyrshin*
> 
> That's a good point, I'm still a bit sceptical about adding second block myself.
> Good thing is that EKWB or swiftech rad should be better, then typical 140 AIO. Stock Xeon are up to 160W, but I'm looking at 105-125W models.
> Have to do math, don't want to spend way much, on the cooling.


Glad you understand.
They are definitely better.
Most of us here to not consider CLC as being AIO. It is easier for us to simple Xcompumicate CLCs from the water cooling religion entirely. We have custom loops, kits, AIOs (kits assembled and filled) and cough, choke gang CLCs.

Best is talk to people like ciarlatano, geggeg and similar who are very knowledgeable about both air and water cooling. Both have tested and used many many different components. While I know a lot (pat myself on back a few times here) I'm not current on water cooling components or kits and only have a basic current knowledge of AIO. CLCs are not worth even trying to know about.

I have been uisng air almost exclusively for many years now having tired of all the work and expense it take to buy, build and maintain water cooling. I have lots of knowledge about air cooling and it's components and can do almost anything with just air cooling.

With a decent case we can do most things we want very quietly on air. CPUs are not hard to cool, it's the GPU that is the tough nut to crack.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> i meant the runners not supporting the weight evenly...then tipping or folding under the weight...in some cases wider is better...


I don't know what you will make yours with, but I make mine out of 10mm birch plywood and even under the heaviest water cooled cases on carpet I've never had one bend or break.


----------



## kovyrshin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Glad you understand.
> They are definitely better.
> Most of us here to not consider CLC as being AIO. It is easier for us to simple Xcompumicate CLCs from the water cooling religion entirely. We have custom loops, kits, AIOs (kits assembled and filled) and cough, choke gang CLCs.
> 
> With a decent case we can do most things we want very quietly on air. CPUs are not hard to cool, it's the GPU that is the tough nut to crack.


I see what you're saying, and I see benefits of aircooling, especially for 24/7 system. We're talking about 100-120W which should be pretty easy, even with moderate size air coolers.
I can expect good watercooling solution will be more quiet, then aircooler, but probably not too much. Also being a perfecionist, I will probably end up with hardtubing, and etc, if I go for water.

Anyway, I'm still looking for mobo first.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kovyrshin*
> 
> I see what you're saying, and I see benefits of aircooling, especially for 24/7 system. We're talking about 100-120W which should be pretty easy, even with moderate size air coolers.
> I can expect good watercooling solution will be more quiet, then aircooler, but probably not too much. Also being a perfecionist, I will probably end up with hardtubing, and etc, if I go for water.
> 
> Anyway, I'm still looking for mobo first.


With a good case and coolers air will generally be quieter. Mainly because pumps make noise and are almost impossible to make silent. And water moving through things often makes noise too.









The hardest part of making a quiet system is cooling the GPU.


----------



## kovyrshin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> With a good case and coolers air will generally be quieter. Mainly because pumps make noise and are almost impossible to make silent. And water moving through things often makes noise too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The hardest part of making a quiet system is cooling the GPU.


Other thing is system will run ok, if fan on CPU fails. in case you have enough fans and big cooler obviously.
But you cannot stand if fan or pump in CLC fails.

It won't be a top-level GPU, and I expect mid-level card to be a little more quiet.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> With a good case and coolers air will generally be quieter. Mainly because pumps make noise and are almost impossible to make silent. And water moving through things often makes noise too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The hardest part of making a quiet system is cooling the GPU.


Not to mention the fact that liquid cooling systems put far more fans mounted directly to the exterior of the case. But, this is far more of an issue with the current crop of CLCs than with custom loops or a Swifteck/EK AiO. The reason for the issue is that these CLCs are designed to rely on massive amounts of air to work.....since high speed fans are way cheaper than using proper rads, pumps and blocks.


----------



## rfarmer

Well this goes with the previous post, I prefer Swiftech but anyone looking at a EK Predator looks like the price is fixing to drop. http://www.overclock3d.net/news/cases_cooling/ek_announced_ek-xlc_predator_aio_price_reductions/1


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Not to mention the fact that liquid cooling systems put far more fans mounted directly to the exterior of the case. But, this is far more of an issue with the current crop of CLCs than with custom loops or a Swifteck/EK AiO. The reason for the issue is that these CLCs are designed to rely on massive amounts of air to work.....since high speed fans are way cheaper than using proper rads, pumps and blocks.


The dribble-pumps used on CLCs combined with restrictive airflow radiators made as cheaply as humanly possible are wreck waiting to happen.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rfarmer*
> 
> Well this goes with the previous post, I prefer Swiftech but anyone looking at a EK Predator looks like the price is fixing to drop. http://www.overclock3d.net/news/cases_cooling/ek_announced_ek-xlc_predator_aio_price_reductions/1


The only surprise is it took this long for their prices to come down. They are still way over priced .. just like most water cooling components. They are like custom automotive prices. Look at commercial hose fittings, mostly for high pressure and you will see they are a about 20-30% as expensive .. and looks don't cost 300-500% more to manufacture.








Here is a low cost (£8.50) 8mm (0.315") quick release. Granted it';s not as nice looking and not 3/8", but you get the idea.

http://www.demon-tweeks.co.uk/motorsport/fuel-hose-fittings/warrior-quick-release-fuel-line-coupler

It's simple supply and demand. As long as we pay through the nose for fancy 'custom' pieces, we will get nose-bleeds.


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> The dribble-pumps used on CLCs combined with restrictive airflow radiators made as cheaply as humanly possible are wreck waiting to happen.
> The only surprise is it took this long for their prices to come down. They are still way over priced .. just like most water cooling components. They are like custom automotive prices. Look at commercial hose fittings, mostly for high pressure and you will see they are a about 20-30% as expensive .. and looks don't cost 300-500% more to manufacture.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a low cost (£8.50) 8mm (0.315") quick release. Granted it';s not as nice looking and not 3/8", but you get the idea.
> 
> http://www.demon-tweeks.co.uk/motorsport/fuel-hose-fittings/warrior-quick-release-fuel-line-coupler
> 
> It's simple supply and demand. As long as we pay through the nose for fancy 'custom' pieces, we will get nose-bleeds.


I have to agree with that, with my current build I wanted to get some Koolance quick disconnect. I just could not justify the price though.


----------



## TeslaHUN

If u want the most quiet PC , then forget watercooling . Pump noise + fan noise on radiators (minimum 3fan for 360 rad if u want cpu +vga , but bigger rad space is required for OC , so even more fan ).
Best solution is :
CPU > big,heavy cooler with slow fan like Thermalright Macho
GPU (dont use the stock gpu cooling , even if factory says its quit, they lie , stock VGA coolers are terribly loud in load )
buy Morpheus (or morhpeus2) or Alpenföhn Peter(or Peter2) aftermarket GPU cooler +2 silent ,high static pressure fans (NOT Corsair, they are terrible) . good fans for heatsink : Akasa Apache (or Viper) , Noiseblocker eLoop B12-PS ,Alpenfoehn Wing-Boost 2

U can make very quiet system with these components, but still able to overclock .


----------



## kovyrshin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TeslaHUN*
> 
> If u want the most quiet PC , then forget watercooling . Pump noise + fan noise on radiators (minimum 3fan for 360 rad if u want cpu +vga , but bigger rad space is required for OC , so even more fan ).
> Best solution is :
> CPU > big,heavy cooler with slow fan like Thermalright Macho
> GPU (dont use the stock gpu cooling , even if factory says its quit, they lie , stock VGA coolers are terribly loud in load )
> buy Morpheus (or morhpeus2) or Alpenföhn Peter(or Peter2) aftermarket GPU cooler +2 silent ,high static pressure fans (NOT Corsair, they are terrible) . good fans for heatsink : Akasa Apache (or Viper) , Noiseblocker eLoop B12-PS ,Alpenfoehn Wing-Boost 2
> 
> U can make very quiet system with these components, but still able to overclock .


That's very nice advice. Thanks for that.
I won't overclock it, you probably cannot get more then 3-5% from Xeons, but I'd prefer it to be as much silent, as possible. Not compromising performance though.


----------



## Risley

Honestly I dont mind semi-loud fan noise, its kind of like what noise, pretty calming. zzzzZZZZzzzz


----------



## doyll

What @TeslaHUN said.









Thermalright True Spirit 140 coolers are easily as good as Machos.

I've often wondered why Phanteks has never made a single tower 140mm fan cooler.









I've found many of the top GPU stock coolers (big 2x and 3x fan models) cool way better and way quieter with normal fans on them. I just remove the stock shroud & fans and replace them with 25mm thick fans. I often use Arctic F90 on GPUs. Usually the F90 PWM and use GPU PWM control signal. But the F90 TC are same fan with their own temperature control system and works very well just slipping the probe between GPU PCB and cooler finpack.
Here is an example of one. At 50% duty cycle GPU never exceeds 70c even after hours of heavy gaming. Just remember doing this requires having at least 1 more PCIe space for fans and airflow.


----------



## mrpurplehawk

Question for fellow primo owners. Do you have issues removing the front fan cover? I press the portion to unsnap the tabs and i have to press very hard, same with reinstalling it. I feel like I have to put a ton of exta force on the front of the case to do it.

Also the power button sometimes doesn't work if the system is powered off. Seems to work find it powered on though.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mrpurplehawk*
> 
> Question for fellow primo owners. Do you have issues removing the front fan cover? I press the portion to unsnap the tabs and i have to press very hard, same with reinstalling it. I feel like I have to put a ton of exta force on the front of the case to do it.
> 
> Also the power button sometimes doesn't work if the system is powered off. Seems to work find it powered on though.


I find the 'push' to release are hard too. I just remove the lower 5.25" optical bay cover and 'pinch' to release with fingers and thumb.









Have no problems with power button, but almost never 'unpower' with power button .. unless system freezes and that's maybe twice a year.
I live in a warm climate.








*grabs coat on way out*


----------



## mrpurplehawk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> I find the 'push' to release are hard too. I just remove the lower 5.25" optical bay cover and 'pinch' to release with fingers and thumb.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Have no problems with power button, but almost never 'unpower' with power button .. unless system freezes and that's maybe twice a year.
> I live in a warm climate.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *grabs coat on way out*


Good idea, I will try that next time I clean the filters

On the power button, I don't typically power it down using the button but as I am thinking about it right now, I am an idiot. I turned it on via the reset button once so I probably just put the pins on backwards. I think I deserve the idiot of the month award since it took me 3 weeks to realize this lol


----------



## Chiobe

Have anyone tried to remove the original feet on the Primo? Instead of making a way to mount something to them, to get more breathing space for bottom radiator, so would it be easier to have new feet made. Plus there is the option of making a bottom chamber, to get more space for radiators and storage.


----------



## Risley

Simple question, how do you guys clean the inside of the your case? When I was building I had a lot of static and so have a lot of annoying dust in the case. Plus with the Pro M acrylic, there is that opening at the bottom of the front (im assuming is there to help remove the front) and I bet a lot of dust comes in through that. So do you use compressed air, or a microcloth etc.

Also, how did people plug up the hole in front of the Pro m acrylic?


----------



## smithydan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Risley*
> 
> Simple question, how do you guys clean the inside of the your case?


Couple of guys here have invested in a DataVac ED500 or such similar devices.


----------



## Mikowolf

Hey guys, I just bought Evolv Atx and honestly I'm very disappointed by it's airflow.

On most posts I see people mention problems with AIO, but I have a Noctua D15 on [email protected] 4.3 1.26v with Real bench hitting 82 and CPU only 100% load up to 77, fans running 100% almost all the time. which, I assume aren't good results at all. I believe that's due to case airflow, has anyone tested fan configurations with big air towers?

Aside for stock fans I have an additional Corsair 140mm at the top. Tried it both as exhaust and intake with no real difference.
I have also moved front fans at highest position so there's a direct flow from front to the back.

Thanks


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mikowolf*
> 
> Hey guys, I just bought Evolv Atx and honestly I'm very disappointed by it's airflow.
> 
> On most posts I see people mention problems with AIO, but I have a Noctua D15 on [email protected] 4.3 1.26v with Real bench hitting 82 and CPU only 100% load up to 77, fans running 100% almost all the time. which, I assume aren't good results at all. I believe that's due to case airflow, has anyone tested fan configurations with big air towers?
> 
> Aside for stock fans I have an additional Corsair 140mm at the top. Tried it both as exhaust and intake with no real difference.
> I have also moved front fans at highest position so there's a direct flow from front to the back.
> 
> Thanks


Top fan is probably lowering cooling ability. What corsail is it? If you do not block all open holes in mounting tray that are not being used by fan all you are doing is giving your case a swirly .. you know, like what happens when you flush the toilet, except it don't flush.









You might find 'Ways to Better Cooling' link in my sig of interest. 1st post is topic index, click on topic to see it. 5th is a good place to start.


----------



## Mikowolf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Top fan is probably lowering cooling ability. What corsail is it? If you do not block all open holes in mounting tray that are not being used by fan all you are doing is giving your case a swirly .. you know, like what happens when you flush the toilet, except it don't flush.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You might find 'Ways to Better Cooling' link in my sig of interest. 1st post is topic index, click on topic to see it. 5th is a good place to start.


Hey,

I have read that thread, Thank you.

I do get the concept - but in fact there's a minor temp difference with Top mounted fan (~1-2 degrees lower), when it's on.
It's a Corsair Quiet edition AF140. Right now I've mounted it at the upper slot, next to main back exhaust, also as exhaust, so I have 2x2 aside for GPU and PSU.

So those poor temps doesn't seem to do much with top fan.

The other thing I have noticed is bugging me even more.
I have an ASUS motherboard with fan control and I've tried Silent and Full speed modes. And got something like 5 degrees difference at ~70 (Full speed) to 75-77 (Silent), with 75 to 79 average at Realbench. All at just 1.26V 5820k...
For Silent those results are decent (it's barely audible) but for full speed?

IDK how this makes any sense.

upd.
I have tried suggestions for Evolv ATX on removing HDD covers, moved my HDD to lower chamber and separated front fans, Now one is at very top and second at the bottom.
I've got something like -4 degrees on RealBench, which is something when it's between 70-80.

However this case still seems to have pretty poor cooling performance, especially at this price. There's no room for real cooling upgrades aside for changing already included fans, or Water cooling...but that's not for everyone.

This is especially frustrating since this case is so praised all over the web but at this price I could have got two R5's...


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mikowolf*
> 
> Hey,
> 
> I have read that thread, Thank you.
> 
> I do get the concept - but in fact there's a minor temp difference with Top mounted fan (~1-2 degrees lower), when it's on.
> It's a Corsair Quiet edition AF140. Right now I've mounted it at the upper slot, next to main back exhaust, also as exhaust, so I have 2x2 aside for GPU and PSU.
> 
> So those poor temps doesn't seem to do much with top fan.
> 
> The other thing I have noticed is bugging me even more.
> I have an ASUS motherboard with fan control and I've tried Silent and Full speed modes. And got something like 5 degrees difference at ~70 (Full speed) to 75-77 (Silent), with 75 to 79 average at Realbench. All at just 1.26V 5820k...
> For Silent those results are decent (it's barely audible) but for full speed?
> 
> IDK how this makes any sense.
> 
> upd.
> I have tried suggestions for Evolv ATX on removing HDD covers, moved my HDD to lower chamber and separated front fans, Now one is at very top and second at the bottom.
> I've got something like -4 degrees on RealBench, which is something when it's between 70-80.
> 
> However this case still seems to have pretty poor cooling performance, especially at this price. There's no room for real cooling upgrades aside for changing already included fans, or Water cooling...but that's not for everyone.
> 
> This is especially frustrating since this case is so praised all over the web but at this price I could have got two R5's...


Have you monitored the cooler intake air temp?

You can try running with front panel off and /or top panel off. With not front and top cover on the case it will flow way more air than any Define case can.


----------



## Mikowolf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Have you monitored the cooler intake air temp?
> 
> You can try running with front panel off and /or top panel off. With not front and top cover on the case it will flow way more air than any Define case can.


Unfortunately I don't have the temp measurement equipment. I'm considering to buy some in the nearest future.

I've removed front panel, not much difference.

Wait Top panel can go off on Evolv?

I don't know how much air can fully equipped Define run, but it seems like (from forums and your Cooling thread as well) that Evolv won't benefit much or at all from additional fans while Define has more room for upgrades, and even with all aftermarket fans will probably cost less or same as Evolv.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mikowolf*
> 
> Hey,
> 
> I have read that thread, Thank you.
> 
> I do get the concept - but in fact there's a minor temp difference with Top mounted fan (~1-2 degrees lower), when it's on.
> It's a Corsair Quiet edition AF140. Right now I've mounted it at the upper slot, next to main back exhaust, also as exhaust, so I have 2x2 aside for GPU and PSU.
> 
> So those poor temps doesn't seem to do much with top fan.
> 
> The other thing I have noticed is bugging me even more.
> I have an ASUS motherboard with fan control and I've tried Silent and Full speed modes. And got something like 5 degrees difference at ~70 (Full speed) to 75-77 (Silent), with 75 to 79 average at Realbench. All at just 1.26V 5820k...
> For Silent those results are decent (it's barely audible) but for full speed?
> 
> IDK how this makes any sense.
> 
> upd.
> I have tried suggestions for Evolv ATX on removing HDD covers, moved my HDD to lower chamber and separated front fans, Now one is at very top and second at the bottom.
> I've got something like -4 degrees on RealBench, which is something when it's between 70-80.
> 
> However this case still seems to have pretty poor cooling performance, especially at this price. There's no room for real cooling upgrades aside for changing already included fans, or Water cooling...but that's not for everyone.
> 
> This is especially frustrating since this case is so praised all over the web but at this price I could have got two R5's...


Your results are odd. I've tested the EVOLV ATX with a number of air coolers, and results were very average, and certainly better than a Define R5.

A couple of things - First, try your testing with the front cover removed and see how much of a difference it makes. If you are still getting high temps, it is not the case that is the issue. That will open up a completely free flowing path for the air with no restriction. Second, your supposed temp drop with the top fan is purely placebo effect - recirculating hot aid in the case rather than exhausting it is *not* dropping your temps, and that is all a fan in that location will do. If anything it is hindering performance.


----------



## Mikowolf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Your results are odd. I've tested the EVOLV ATX with a number of air coolers, and results were very average, and certainly better than a Define R5.
> 
> A couple of things - First, try your testing with the front cover removed and see how much of a difference it makes. If you are still getting high temps, it is not the case that is the issue. That will open up a completely free flowing path for the air with no restriction. Second, your supposed temp drop with the top fan is purely placebo effect - recirculating hot aid in the case rather than exhausting it is *not* dropping your temps, and that is all a fan in that location will do. If anything it is hindering performance.


I've tried to remove front panel and gained nothing. Maybe, as you say, it's not about the case. But what could it be then?

As for a fan, even if so, don't really feel like throwing it out of a window :/ Is there a legit placement for it inside this case?


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mikowolf*
> 
> I've tried to remove front panel and gained nothing. Maybe, as you say, it's not about the case. But what could it be then?
> 
> As for a fan, even if so, don't really feel like throwing it out of a window :/ Is there a legit placement for it inside this case?


I was just doing some quick checking, and your voltage at that speed is high compared to the few OC I just saw on that CPU. Also, are you getting an actual voltage reading while you are stress testing? Are you sure your MB isn't upping the voltage even further without you realizing it? I would imagine that you have researched proper OC for your CPU more than me, so maybe that is not really the case, but the first few I pulled up were showing voltages of 1.15-1.2 at 4.2GHz. What ASUS MB are you using, and _please_ tell me you are not using some ASUS auto OC.

You could have a bad seating on your cooler. Have you removed it to check the TIM print? You could also simply have a hot running chip, and you already hit it's thermal wall. All CPUs are different, all OC differently. Just because JoeyOC got a said OC in hos thread does not mean that you will get the same from your CPU.

There is no useful place in your build for that fan. "More" does not always mean "better", especially when all you are doing is disrupting the designed airflow of the case.


----------



## Mikowolf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> I was just doing some quick checking, and your voltage at that speed is high compared to the few OC I just saw on that CPU. Also, are you getting an actual voltage reading while you are stress testing? Are you sure your MB isn't upping the voltage even further without you realizing it? I would imagine that you have researched proper OC for your CPU more than me, so maybe that is not really the case, but the first few I pulled up were showing voltages of 1.15-1.2 at 4.2GHz. What ASUS MB are you using, and _please_ tell me you are not using some ASUS auto OC.
> 
> You could have a bad seating on your cooler. Have you removed it to check the TIM print? You could also simply have a hot running chip, and you already hit it's thermal wall. All CPUs are different, all OC differently. Just because JoeyOC got a said OC in hos thread does not mean that you will get the same from your CPU.
> 
> There is no useful place in your build for that fan. "More" does not always mean "better", especially when all you are doing is disrupting the designed airflow of the case.


Yes I know it's high but seems like I just lost the lottery. It actually started pretty good @ 4.3, 1.15v but crashed after an hour, same with 1.2 so I just threw at it enough to function asap as I don't have time for fine tuning right now. I can probably cut it something like 1.22-23 but from what I saw for Noctua tests on 5820k it shoudn't be 80 degrees even at 1.3, while in my case 1.3 is an instant overheat.

I use CPU-Z for voltage and clock, CPUID, Open Hardware for checking everything & Asus Utilities. There's a consistent info among all of them, aside for ASUS utility giving me a much lower temps on CPU and which I assume is wrong as it can't handle much additional voltage and Open Hardware showing 90+ on some cores, which again can't really be correct.

As for a fans. Alright that's fair enough. But just for a future, are there option for better fans? Those Phanteks included seem pretty good on paper.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mikowolf*
> 
> Unfortunately I don't have the temp measurement equipment. I'm considering to buy some in the nearest future.
> 
> I've removed front panel, not much difference.
> 
> Wait Top panel can go off on Evolv?
> 
> I don't know how much air can fully equipped Define run, but it seems like (from forums and your Cooling thread as well) that Evolv won't benefit much or at all from additional fans while Define has more room for upgrades, and even with all aftermarket fans will probably cost less or same as Evolv.


A digital indoor / outdoor wired sensor thermometer makes a very good and very low cost case airflow / cooler intake thermometer.
Like ciarlatano said, something else is wrong. Amazon or Ebay are probably cheapest sources.

With front cover off the Evolv ATX has 2x 140mm intakes with little resistance, less resistance Define R4 & R5 have even with front door open. . but Evolv PH-F140SP fans are way better than Fractal Design case fans.

Top panel has 2 screws in front and 2 screws in back to remove, and it unclips like front panel does. All explained in below link.
http://www.overclock.net/t/1418637/official-case-phanteks-case-club-for-lovers-owners/13700_20#post_25268315


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mikowolf*
> 
> Yes I know it's high but seems like I just lost the lottery. It actually started pretty good @ 4.3, 1.15v but crashed after an hour, same with 1.2 so I just threw at it enough to function asap as I don't have time for fine tuning right now. I can probably cut it something like 1.22-23 but from what I saw for Noctua tests on 5820k it shoudn't be 80 degrees even at 1.3, while in my case 1.3 is an instant overheat.
> 
> I use CPU-Z for voltage and clock, CPUID, Open Hardware for checking everything & Asus Utilities. There's a consistent info among all of them, aside for ASUS utility giving me a much lower temps on CPU and which I assume is wrong as it can't handle much additional voltage and Open Hardware showing 90+ on some cores, which again can't really be correct.
> 
> As for a fans. Alright that's fair enough. But just for a future, are there option for better fans? Those Phanteks included seem pretty good on paper.


The PH-F140SP are not the very best, but the difference between them and the best is marginally better sound profile. If there is a difference in airflow it is very little .. as in so little I doubt you would see 1c difference in temps. The only way to get more airflow is with higher speed / higher performance fans and that means a lot more noise.


----------



## Mikowolf

Oh well, will troubleshoot it further. Maybe there're flaws in D15 maybe termo tester will help...who knows, even Noctua might make mistakes. Or my chip is just trashy
Either way Thank you for sorting this out.

Out of topic question - I'm thinking about adding a LED at case - how long stripe do I need to let it go around the window (non TG edition)? Will 1m be enough?


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mikowolf*
> 
> Oh well, will troubleshoot it further. Maybe there're flaws in D15 maybe termo tester will help...who knows, even Noctua might make mistakes. Or my chip is just trashy
> Either way Thank you for sorting this out.
> 
> Out of topic question - I'm thinking about adding a LED at case - how long stripe do I need to let it go around the window (non TG edition)? Will 1m be enough?


Measure where you are looking to put the LED and order the length that fits it.


----------



## Mikowolf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Measure where you are looking to put the LED and order the length that fits it.


Yeah, I just hoped someone already measured it for Evolv cases xD


----------



## dmfree88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Risley*
> 
> Also, how did people plug up the hole in front of the Pro m acrylic?





I cut a piece of foam to shape and wrapped it in electrical tape. Then taped it to the door. Sort of ghetto but it works and you can't see it anyways. I would imagine others have found different ways that may be easier. Wasn't too difficult though


----------



## pez

Question for anyone that has the experience, and kinda OT as this may end up not going into a Phanteks case, but have any of you had any recent experience with top-flow CPU coolers? Phanteks has a really nice one, but it's only available in blue around here







.

EDIT:

I ended up ordering a Noctua C14S so we'll see how that goes. Might require me to switch out to my slower, but low-profile RAM.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pez*
> 
> Question for anyone that has the experience, and kinda OT as this may end up not going into a Phanteks case, but have any of you had any recent experience with top-flow CPU coolers? Phanteks has a really nice one, but it's only available in blue around here
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> EDIT:
> 
> I ended up ordering a Noctua C14S so we'll see how that goes. Might require me to switch out to my slower, but low-profile RAM.


You made the right choice. Well, a BQ Dark Rock TF also would have been a great choice..... The Phanteks TC14CS doesn't stand up well to the Noctua or BQ.


----------



## pez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> You made the right choice. Well, a BQ Dark Rock TF also would have been a great choice..... The Phanteks TC14CS doesn't stand up well to the Noctua or BQ.


I really liked the BQ DR TF, but IIRC, it didn't fit for my use case. I'm still working on my project ATM, so I'm trying to beautify it a bit before letting on my secret







. Not Phanteks related outside of some bits here and there, but it is going to spawn a new build with my Pro M







.


----------



## springs113

What is the thickest radiator combos that you all have used...preferably 360mm combos? Evolv ATX case only


----------



## Chiobe

It seems that 2cm extra breathing room below the Primo, didnt make any difference to temps.
So I ether need to rise it higher or my effective 2x 360mm radiators cant reduce temps more. They are really 480mm, but had to unplug 1 top fan, as it was hitting the rad for some reason and the bottom rad is not properly mounted, as its too wide to fit the case.

So the questions is, new radiators and new feets for the Primo or a new case that fits what I have.


----------



## nycgtr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chiobe*
> 
> It seems that 2cm extra breathing room below the Primo, didnt make any difference to temps.
> So I ether need to rise it higher or my effective 2x 360mm radiators cant reduce temps more. They are really 480mm, but had to unplug 1 top fan, as it was hitting the rad for some reason and the bottom rad is not properly mounted, as its too wide to fit the case.
> 
> So the questions is, new radiators and new feets for the Primo or a new case that fits what I have.


what are your temps anyway? Seems like your going thru a lot of work for very minimal if any gain.


----------



## Chiobe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nycgtr*
> 
> what are your temps anyway? Seems like your going thru a lot of work for very minimal if any gain.


50C on both GPUs and 70C on CPU. Room temp 20-25C.
Its better then air, but still quite hot for how much cooling I got.


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *springs113*
> 
> What is the thickest radiator combos that you all have used...preferably 360mm combos? Evolv ATX case only


Depends if you do the top mounting mod. EK SE up top plus basically anything in front of pretty much there only dual 360 option. The SE is not a great read though. The best would be a top mod HWL GTS top + a HWL GTS or EK XE front.


----------



## springs113

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> Depends if you do the top mounting mod. EK SE up top plus basically anything in front of pretty much there only dual 360 option. The SE is not a great read though. The best would be a top mod HWL GTS top + a HWL GTS or EK XE front.


I have 2 gtx nemesis 360s, an alphacool monster 360, that I was going to pair with a EK SE. Would that be a good combo. cooling 2 290s and a 5930k? I can also use my gts 360 xflow or if I can find my xspc ax360.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *springs113*
> 
> I have 2 gtx nemesis 360s, an alphacool monster 360, that I was going to pair with a EK SE. Would that be a good combo. cooling 2 290s and a 5930k? I can also use my gts 360 xflow or if I can find my xspc ax360.


You would be far better off pairing the Nemesis 360 up top with a Nemesis 280mm in the front. With the location of the midplate there will be no real visual difference since the bottom of the rad is not seen. But, more importantly, you will get better performance and can run lower fan speeds. The EK SE series is a joke.


----------



## springs113

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> You would be far better off pairing the Nemesis 360 up top with a Nemesis 280mm in the front. With the location of the midplate there will be no real visual difference since the bottom of the rad is not seen. But, more importantly, you will get better performance and can run lower fan speeds. The EK SE series is a joke.


it was an impulse buy which i regret dearly, i sent performance pcs an rma request...i actually thought i purchased the PE version but didn't realize until i looked at the package last night. I just recently purchased the evolv tg(tired of waiting on the elite) and will also be putting my rampage 10 on there.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *springs113*
> 
> it was an impulse buy which i regret dearly, i sent performance pcs an rma request...i actually thought i purchased the PE version but didn't realize until i looked at the package last night. I just recently purchased the evolv tg(tired of waiting on the elite) and will also be putting my rampage 10 on there.


Well, hopefully they take it back. There is no reason to put awful equipment into your build, especially when you have HWL on hand to work with.


----------



## springs113

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Well, hopefully they take it back. There is no reason to put awful equipment into your build, especially when you have HWL on hand to work with.


I opted for store credit as i was going to switch it for a gts 360 and/or PE,or an alphacool variant. Its because this evolv is a step back from my previous case. I was going to order the primo, then i saw the elite but that price and no release date...smh. i was still contemplating the primo but to display things I the evolv and also it's a mid form factor would be great. Worse comes too worse is use it to cool either my wife's system or my brothers build


----------



## pez

The Pro M is going to have a new home soon, bit figured I'd show off what I've been up to the past week or so. (Not Phanteks content)



No worries, the Evolv ITX isn't going anywhere








.


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pez*
> 
> The Pro M is going to have a new home soon, bit figured I'd show off what I've been up to the past week or so. (Not Phanteks content)
> 
> 
> 
> No worries, the Evolv ITX isn't going anywhere
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


Very nice, I moved to a Ncase in May. Fantastic little case.


----------



## pez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rfarmer*
> 
> Very nice, I moved to a Ncase in May. Fantastic little case.


Indeed. It made me work for it, but I'm not done with it just yet. I want to keep it under air as the H100i V2 I got for it is a very tight fit...temps are great, but the C14S I think might be a better option for me considering the long run







.


----------



## doyll

We have traders in our mist!








I shouldn't say much .. I'm still have a Define R2 rubbing shoulders with my Phanteks systems.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> We have *traitors* in our *midst*!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I shouldn't say much .. I'm still have a Define R2 rubbing shoulders with my Phanteks systems.


i wonder what they are trading... oh you meant traitors...but then again i guess they "traded" out for another case brand...i digress lol...anyway i fixed it to satisfy this horrible habit i picked up from am ex gf....


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> i wonder what they are trading... oh you meant traitors...but then again i guess they "traded" out for another case brand...i digress lol...anyway i fixed it to satisfy this horrible habit i picked up from am ex gf....


isn't that what traders do? Trade one thing for another? Sometimes is goods, sometimes it countries, and sometimes is cases!


----------



## pez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> We have traders in our mist!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I shouldn't say much .. I'm still have a Define R2 rubbing shoulders with my Phanteks systems.


Doyll it's not even 5PM there. Stop being drunk







.

And the Phanteks system will be sitting close to the Ncase soon enough







.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pez*
> 
> Doyll it's not even 5PM there. Stop being drunk
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> And the Phanteks system will be sitting close to the Ncase soon enough
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


Beer-thirty and I'm stone sober.
Just opened a pint.
Glad we solved that litle problem.


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> We have traders in our mist!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I shouldn't say much .. I'm still have a Define R2 rubbing shoulders with my Phanteks systems.


I have been a SFF case fan for several years now, but after the build I did prior to my Evolv-itx I was tired of the limitations of SFF cases. Whether it be poor cooling, component limitations, lousy cable management or bruised knuckles I was ready for a change. I was sold on the looks of the Evolv, good component support, great cable management and water cooling support. Problem was while most members of this thread would consider the Evol-itx a small case to me it was massive.

You know what they say -20 liters or die trying.


----------



## pez

On a side note, doyll--are there any slim 120mm fans that you recommend? There's a slim Thermalright fan that seems to be of similar design/series of the ones you recommend...but not sure it's worth spending any extra money on them.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pez*
> 
> On a side note, doyll--are there any slim 120mm fans that you recommend? There's a slim Thermalright fan that seems to be of similar design/series of the ones you recommend...but not sure it's worth spending any extra money on them.


I've only used a couple slim 120mm fans. The Thermalright are 100mm and 140mm I've used them both and they are fine if there is not much resistance involved. I've also used SST-FW 121 and FN123 and again, they a fine if there is not much resistance.

What do you need them to do?


----------



## pez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> I've only used a couple slim 120mm fans. The Thermalright are 100mm and 140mm I've used them both and they are fine if there is not much resistance involved. I've also used SST-FW 121 and FN123 and again, they a fine if there is not much resistance.
> 
> What do you need them to do?


The C14S will have to have it's fan on the bottom, so it will pull air down...which in turn will pull air directly from the left side-panel opening. However, the only fan to fit between the side panel and the heatsink would be a slim 120 on the bracket, or a 140 mounted on the heatsink in a sore of push/pull situation. I'm thinking I may be better served by running the Noctua fan a bit harder, or changing out for a better airflow (and louder) fan. The cooler should come in today, so I'll see how temps go and I'll go from there







.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pez*
> 
> The C14S will have to have it's fan on the bottom, so it will pull air down...which in turn will pull air directly from the left side-panel opening. However, the only fan to fit between the side panel and the heatsink would be a slim 120 on the bracket, or a 140 mounted on the heatsink in a sore of push/pull situation. I'm thinking I may be better served by running the Noctua fan a bit harder, or changing out for a better airflow (and louder) fan. The cooler should come in today, so I'll see how temps go and I'll go from there
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


I kinda get the picture, but can't really visualize it in 3D. About all I can say is fan needs 2D area of airflow to / away as it's own airflow area is. A 140mm fan has about 140 sq cm of flow area; a 120mm fan has about 100sq cm flow area. So if a 120mm fan can only draw air from on side of a 'box' like area that one side has to be 85mm x 120mm. Could you post in Air Cooling forum or PM me exactly what all the system is? CPU clearance, RAM, vent placement, etc. I helped build a SST (think it was) RVZ01 a couple years ago and we got that to be near silent excempt under extreme load . and even then it was not at all loud .. with GTX 770 ACX in it. Think he used some Prolimatech USV12: PWM fans. I never got a chance to try any but heard good things about them.


----------



## vaoqeRG

I mistakenly posted this in the air cooling section and was told it was more appropriate to post in this thread.

I am building inside an Enthoo Primo. This case has 5 fans included. The problem is my motherboard (Asus Deluxe II) has only 3 fan headers (plus 2 for cpu and 1 for pump). The case comes with a PWM hub. My motherboard also comes with a fan extension card, this allows 3 extra fans to be added.

So how do I connect the fans to the motherboard, what is the most optimum way? 
Should I:

1- Buy Y splitters and use the headers provided on the motherboard? 
2- Use the fan extension card included in the Deluxe II?
3- Keep it as is and use the PMW hub that is provided by the case and attach that to the motherboard?

I am looking for most optimum cooling if possible, my cpu (5960x) will be air cooled by a D15s if that helps. Many thanks!


----------



## statyksyn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rfarmer*
> 
> I have been a SFF case fan for several years now, but after the build I did prior to my Evolv-itx I was tired of the limitations of SFF cases. Whether it be poor cooling, component limitations, lousy cable management or bruised knuckles I was ready for a change. I was sold on the looks of the Evolv, good component support, great cable management and water cooling support. Problem was while most members of this thread would consider the Evol-itx a small case to me it was massive.
> 
> You know what they say -20 liters or die trying.


I love the evolv-itx, and youre right it is pretty large compared to some of its other competitors but i love it, very fun to build in!


----------



## mmcneil

Hi everybody. I'm looking to get some advice on the Enthoo Primo case; My current rig is:

Fractal Design Define S case
i7 4790K OC'd to 4.7ghz at 1.28 volts
Asus Maximus VII Gene motherboard
16GB Corsair vengenance
EVGA GeForce GTX 760
Alphacool UT60 Rad
XSPC RayStorm waterblock
Koolance PMP 450
Phobya 250 reservoir

My loop order is RES -> Pump -> Radiator -> CPU -> RES

I don't plan on doing any graphics cooling right now, but I wanted to get some suggestions on routing for tubing, for the cooling loop. I'd planned on placing the UT60 on the floor of the new case, but I'm concerned about having to do a super long run of tubing from the radiator to the CPU. I want to keep the case as clutter free as possible. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks in advance,

Mike


----------



## KaffieneKing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mmcneil*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Hi everybody. I'm looking to get some advice on the Enthoo Primo case; My current rig is:
> 
> Fractal Design Define S case
> i7 4790K OC'd to 4.7ghz at 1.28 volts
> Asus Maximus VII Gene motherboard
> 16GB Corsair vengenance
> EVGA GeForce GTX 760
> Alphacool UT60 Rad
> XSPC RayStorm waterblock
> Koolance PMP 450
> Phobya 250 reservoir
> 
> My loop order is RES -> Pump -> Radiator -> CPU -> RES
> 
> I don't plan on doing any graphics cooling right now, but I wanted to get some suggestions on routing for tubing, for the cooling loop. I'd planned on placing the UT60 on the floor of the new case, but I'm concerned about having to do a super long run of tubing from the radiator to the CPU. I want to keep the case as clutter free as possible. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
> 
> Thanks in advance,
> 
> Mike


I dont mean to be rude but this is completely the wrong thread. Try here...


----------



## pez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> I kinda get the picture, but can't really visualize it in 3D. About all I can say is fan needs 2D area of airflow to / away as it's own airflow area is. A 140mm fan has about 140 sq cm of flow area; a 120mm fan has about 100sq cm flow area. So if a 120mm fan can only draw air from on side of a 'box' like area that one side has to be 85mm x 120mm. Could you post in Air Cooling forum or PM me exactly what all the system is? CPU clearance, RAM, vent placement, etc. I helped build a SST (think it was) RVZ01 a couple years ago and we got that to be near silent excempt under extreme load . and even then it was not at all loud .. with GTX 770 ACX in it. Think he used some Prolimatech USV12: PWM fans. I never got a chance to try any but heard good things about them.


Definitely will do. I have some questions about some airflow choiced anyhow, and it's better for me not to derail this thread







.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *statyksyn*
> 
> I love the evolv-itx, and youre right it is pretty large compared to some of its other competitors but i love it, very fun to build in!


Indeed. It's a very forgiving case for mITX. I just love that you can easily make it look like a beefy system.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaffieneKing*
> 
> I dont mean to be rude but this is completely the wrong thread. Try here...


These questions have been answered plenty of times here. Especially since he's asking about a Phanteks case where lots or members have already had these specific use case scenarios. Moreso than the general water cooling forum.


----------



## doyll

@mmcneil Please don't listen to what KaffieneKing said. He's normally not so cranky. Seems he either hasn't had enough caffeine or too much.








This is definitely the forum to discuss tubing routing in a Primo.








With many friendly and helpful people.
I'm all air cooled or I would have answered you. I have a Primo in hiding, a Luxe and Evolv ATX proudly on display; and now working on how to modify a MiniXL DS to accommodate an ATX motherboard. At first I thought ti would be easy, but haven't found a doner case with back and motherboard tray that will fit nicely.









Hopefully someone will be along soon to give you a helping hand.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rfarmer*
> 
> I have been a SFF case fan for several years now, but after the build I did prior to my Evolv-itx I was tired of the limitations of SFF cases. Whether it be poor cooling, component limitations, lousy cable management or bruised knuckles I was ready for a change. I was sold on the looks of the Evolv, good component support, great cable management and water cooling support. Problem was while most members of this thread would consider the Evol-itx a small case to me it was massive.
> 
> You know what they say -20 liters or die trying.


my loop took around a half gallon of distilled but admittedly around 8 ounces came out the fill cap....but im a lightweight in the -20 my computer drinks way more than i do...13 years of sobriety other than an occasional social beer


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mmcneil*
> 
> Hi everybody. I'm looking to get some advice on the Enthoo Primo case; My current rig is:
> 
> Fractal Design Define S case
> i7 4790K OC'd to 4.7ghz at 1.28 volts
> Asus Maximus VII Gene motherboard
> 16GB Corsair vengenance
> EVGA GeForce GTX 760
> Alphacool UT60 Rad
> XSPC RayStorm waterblock
> Koolance PMP 450
> Phobya 250 reservoir
> 
> My loop order is RES -> Pump -> Radiator -> CPU -> RES
> 
> I don't plan on doing any graphics cooling right now, but I wanted to get some suggestions on routing for tubing, for the cooling loop. I'd planned on placing the UT60 on the floor of the new case, but I'm concerned about having to do a super long run of tubing from the radiator to the CPU. I want to keep the case as clutter free as possible. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
> 
> Thanks in advance,
> 
> Mike


im assuming you want to use the res mount for your reservoir...going aroind the gpu is always going to leave some fairly long runs..but the good news is when you water cool the gpu you usually have enough to just reuse the tubing and cut excess..if you seen the long run i have for my return you wouldnt feel so bad its nearly 3 feet long lol...best look imo would be with fittingd to the rear on the rad and go over the gpu for shortest runs....they still might look a little funky though because they will have to loop a bit to not kink...from cpu bottom port to outer port on rad then inner port to res...the pump to cpu but i cant think of a really smooth way to run it as ive never used just one rad...


----------



## vaoqeRG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vaoqeRG*
> 
> I mistakenly posted this in the air cooling section and was told it was more appropriate to post in this thread.
> 
> I am building inside an Enthoo Primo. This case has 5 fans included. The problem is my motherboard (Asus Deluxe II) has only 3 fan headers (plus 2 for cpu and 1 for pump). The case comes with a PWM hub. My motherboard also comes with a fan extension card, this allows 3 extra fans to be added.
> 
> So how do I connect the fans to the motherboard, what is the most optimum way?
> Should I:
> 
> 1- Buy Y splitters and use the headers provided on the motherboard?
> 2- Use the fan extension card included in the Deluxe II?
> 3- Keep it as is and use the PMW hub that is provided by the case and attach that to the motherboard?
> 
> I am looking for most optimum cooling if possible, my cpu (5960x) will be air cooled by a D15s if that helps. Many thanks!


Any opinions on this?

I am in the middle of the build and keeping the fan issue last. At the moment I am thinking of just keeping the PWM hub of the case as is with all the fans connected to it and connecting it to a PWM header on the motherboard. The thought of using the fan extension card from Asus is very interesting as I will have individual control of each of the fans but I am not entirely sure which scenario is best for cooling and getting best temps.


----------



## lazyalam

Hey, new guy here.
I am currently in the process of building a custom watercooled white and red setup inside a Evolv ATX I am modifying (side-note: modularity is one aspect of the case that I was NOT expecting, coming from modifying a spec 01 red http://ca.pcpartpicker.com/b/KXCypg :O )
Anyhow, I was wondering if anyone knows if the tint on the tempered glass is removable, and if so a good way to remove it. I like being able to look inside the rig and see everything clearly, and would much prefer to have something still closing the case.


----------



## doyll

The 5x case fans work very well plugged into the PWM controlled hub. You just need to plug it into a CPU_FAN PWM controlled fan header and PSU, then set the fan curve to our liking. Stock fan placement is fine. I moved the bottom intake forward to middle of case.
This will control case fan speed based on CPU heat.


----------



## vaoqeRG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> The 5x case fans work very well plugged into the PWM controlled hub. You just need to plug it into a CPU_FAN PWM controlled fan header and PSU, then set the fan curve to our liking. Stock fan placement is fine. I moved the bottom intake forward to middle of case.
> This will control case fan speed based on CPU heat.


Many thanks Doyll.

Would this arrangment work if I plug the PWM controlled hub into the CPU_OPT fan header? My D15s has a connector that wont reach the case PWM hub, would plugging the D15s into CPU_FAN and the case PWM hub to CPU_OPT work? Or even one of the two CHAS_FAN headers I have unoccupied.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vaoqeRG*
> 
> Many thanks Doyll.
> 
> Would this arrangment work if I plug the PWM controlled hub into the CPU_OPT fan header? My D15s has a connector that wont reach the case PWM hub, would plugging the D15s into CPU_FAN and the case PWM hub to CPU_OPT work? Or even one of the two CHAS_FAN headers I have unoccupied.


*The Phanteks PWM Fan Hub is not a fan hub for PWM fans!!*
Confusing, isn't it?
The Phanteks PWM fan hub is a PWM *controlled* fan hub that uses PWM signal to *control 3-pin variable voltage fans*. It is not a PWM hub to split the PWM signal to multiple PWM fans.

According to GA-Z170X-Gaming 7 motherboard manual pages 27 and 28, the only PWM controlled header is the CPU_FAN header. You can use simple PWM splitter on it to split the PWM signal between D15 fans and Phanteks PWM controlled hub. I'm not sure if you will need to use RPM signal from hub or from D15 fan. At a guess it won't make any difference. Safest would be to use hub lead for RPM signal.


----------



## vaoqeRG

I have the Deluxe II, and looking through the specs it says:
Quote:


> 5-Way Optimisation: Fan Xpert 4 - Elevates customised cooling to new heights, *with the ability to detect PWM/DC fans on all headers*


Does that mean it has PWM controls on all fan headers?

Here is the manual:
http://dlcdnet.asus.com/pub/ASUS/mb/LGA2011/X99-DLX_II/E11357_X99-DELUXE_II_UM_WEB.pdf

On page 44 it says:
Quote:


> The CPU_FAN connector supports the CPU fan of maximum 1A (12W) fan power.


But mentions nothing about PWM.

This is literally the last thing I need sorted before powering on.

What about buying this extension and just connecting the CPU fan header to the hub as instructed and connect the hub to CPU_FAN, would that work?


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vaoqeRG*
> 
> I have the Deluxe II, and looking through the specs it says:
> Does that mean it has PWM controls on all fan headers?
> 
> Here is the manual:
> http://dlcdnet.asus.com/pub/ASUS/mb/LGA2011/X99-DLX_II/E11357_X99-DELUXE_II_UM_WEB.pdf
> 
> On page 44 it says:
> But mentions nothing about PWM.
> 
> This is literally the last thing I need sorted before powering on.
> 
> What about buying this extension and just connecting the CPU fan header to the hub as instructed and connect the hub to CPU_FAN, would that work?


Page 1-26 clearly shows PWM on all headers. *BUT*, don't trust FanXpert to detect it. Set it manually in BIOS.


----------



## vaoqeRG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Page 1-26 clearly shows PWM on all headers. *BUT*, don't trust FanXpert to detect it. Set it manually in BIOS.


So can I plug the CPU header into CPU_FAN and then plug the case PWM controlled hub into another header like CHA_FAN1?

What do you mean set it manually in BIOS?

Sorry to be a pain, its my first build.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vaoqeRG*
> 
> So can I plug the CPU header into CPU_FAN and then plug the case PWM controlled hub into another header like CHA_FAN1?
> 
> What do you mean set it manually in BIOS?
> 
> Sorry to be a pain, its my first build.


That's what we are saying. Just make sure it is function as PWM, Lke ciarlatano said. Be sure you plug the fan hub to PSU. If the fans only run at full speed then PWM is not working.


----------



## vaoqeRG

This is daft I am sure, but how do I know if that fans are running at full speed? Is it just by the noise?


----------



## doyll

There is all kinds of software to monitor system functions. I use HWiFNO64
https://www.hwinfo.com/download.php


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vaoqeRG*
> 
> So can I plug the CPU header into CPU_FAN and then plug the case PWM controlled hub into another header like CHA_FAN1?
> 
> What do you mean set it manually in BIOS?
> 
> Sorry to be a pain, its my first build.


When you go into BIOS, you will see a Q-Fan tab up at the top. When you click on it, it will take you to each individual header. You can set as PWM or DC there, as well as adjust speed curves.

As far as monitoring, you are saying you are going to use FanXpert which will give you readouts of every fan speed, as well as allow you to set up all of the fan speeds and curves to your needs.


----------



## vaoqeRG

I see, that makes a lot of sense. Thank you all so much for all the help. Really appreciated!

I have one more question, or rather I am seeking confirmation that my understanding of case cables at the back is correct, please let me know if any of the below is wrong, I tried to consult with the Primo manual, it touches upon connections on page 12 but does not tell you what each one does.

- My understanding is that the below picture shows the power SATA for the PWM controlled hub of the case. I am NOT to connect this to PSU if I am connecting the hub's header to CHA_FAN1.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







- This is used if I wanted to add extra LEDs to the case (I am not so will not plug anything there).


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







- This needs to be connected to PSU through SATA as it powers the case's original LEDs, I will plug it through SATA to PSU.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







Many thanks again!


----------



## Argowashi

Will the Asus Rampage V Edition 10 fit inside the Phanteks Enthoo Evolv ATX if I remove the backplate?


----------



## Chiobe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Argowashi*
> 
> Will the Asus Rampage V Edition 10 fit inside the Phanteks Enthoo Evolv ATX if I remove the backplate?


E-ATX *(up to 264mm wide), is what is available. The angled wall with rubber grommets can give you a few mm more, but whether you can get the exta 8mm you need without bending the motherboard or shorting something, I dont know. I have seem people do it, but not sure if that is with standard screws and motherboard stand-offs.
Also, I dont think the backplate is the problem. If anything, so will it make it less unlike to bend or short.


----------



## KaffieneKing

@mmcneil Much apologies I definitely did not have enough coffee as I thought you were looking to use the define S!


----------



## Chiobe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vaoqeRG*
> 
> I see, that makes a lot of sense. Thank you all so much for all the help. Really appreciated!
> 
> I have one more question, or rather I am seeking confirmation that my understanding of case cables at the back is correct, please let me know if any of the below is wrong, I tried to consult with the Primo manual, it touches upon connections on page 12 but does not tell you what each one does.
> 
> - My understanding is that the below picture shows the power SATA for the PWM controlled hub of the case. I am NOT to connect this to PSU if I am connecting the hub's header to CHA_FAN1.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> - This is used if I wanted to add extra LEDs to the case (I am not so will not plug anything there).
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> - This needs to be connected to PSU through SATA as it powers the case's original LEDs, I will plug it through SATA to PSU.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Many thanks again!


Sounds about right. You still need the SATA for the PWM hub, as the motherboard cant power that many fans (12W/1A is about max a motherboard header can handle).
I still think its stupid that its a female molex for extra LEDs, as most (if not all) PSUs comes with female molex.


----------



## vaoqeRG

Guys, it booted!

First build of my life and it booted first time!


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!






I love you all and I am very thankful for all the help and advice you've given me on this, it was so frustrating trying to read all the manuals but we got there









All the fans are coming under CHA1 FAN in Asus' BIOS, and the RPM on them keeps changing so I am assuming PWM function worked. Regarding the point @Chiobe raised, I did not connect the case PWM controlled hub to SATA. I will connect it though just in case. I was surprised all the fans worked from CHA_FAN header only.

Again I can not express my thanks.

Edit:

The actual case since we are in the Phanteks club:


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## smithydan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lazyalam*
> 
> Hey, new guy here.
> I am currently in the process of building a custom watercooled white and red setup inside a Evolv ATX I am modifying (side-note: modularity is one aspect of the case that I was NOT expecting, coming from modifying a spec 01 red http://ca.pcpartpicker.com/b/KXCypg :O )
> Anyhow, I was wondering if anyone knows if the tint on the tempered glass is removable, and if so a good way to remove it. I like being able to look inside the rig and see everything clearly, and would much prefer to have something still closing the case.


If my memory serves me correct, the tint is in the glass. This can only be removed by putting the glass in a heated solution and let it stay there for a while.

The method of tinting used and removal is that similar to how glasses(spectacles) and sunglasses are done.


----------



## dlewbell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vaoqeRG*
> 
> I see, that makes a lot of sense. Thank you all so much for all the help. Really appreciated!
> 
> I have one more question, or rather I am seeking confirmation that my understanding of case cables at the back is correct, please let me know if any of the below is wrong, I tried to consult with the Primo manual, it touches upon connections on page 12 but does not tell you what each one does.
> 
> - My understanding is that the below picture shows the power SATA for the PWM controlled hub of the case. I am NOT to connect this to PSU if I am connecting the hub's header to CHA_FAN1.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Many thanks again!


You DO want to connect that SATA power adapter to the PSU if you're using a PWM header on your motherboard (sounds like you will be). The only time that shouldn't be connected is if you're using a voltage-controlled motherboard header, & in that situation you'd want to limit the number of fans you connect to avoid overloading the header.

I'll leave the LED connector questions to someone who actually has the Primo.


----------



## Valgaur

Hello!

Been looking around and I have 2 question on the Phanteks Evolv ATX TG.

#1. How are people mounting their res's and pumps, or combos?

#2. What radiators seem to be the best fits for performance and clearances?

I would like to run a 360, possibly 60mm rad, in the front in intake push, with a top 240, normal size, in exhaust push. Trying to plan either a hardline or soft tubing WC build, would cool a 6700K OC'ed and 1080.

Would greatly appreciate any help in my planning!


----------



## mmcneil

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaffieneKing*
> 
> @mmcneil Much apologies I definitely did not have enough coffee as I thought you were looking to use the define S!


No problem, we've all been there.







. The Primo will be here tomorrow, along with some new fittings and a fan controller. I can't wait to get it all finished .

Mike


----------



## mrpurplehawk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dlewbell*
> 
> You DO want to connect that SATA power adapter to the PSU if you're using a PWM header on your motherboard (sounds like you will be). The only time that shouldn't be connected is if you're using a voltage-controlled motherboard header, & in that situation you'd want to limit the number of fans you connect to avoid overloading the header.
> 
> I'll leave the LED connector questions to someone who actually has the Primo.


What exactly would happen if I didn't do this? I have been running mine without that plugged in for almost a month now without issue. Only running 5 fans attached to the PWM hub currently


----------



## Chiobe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mrpurplehawk*
> 
> What exactly would happen if I didn't do this? I have been running mine without that plugged in for almost a month now without issue. Only running 5 fans attached to the PWM hub currently


It depends on the fans, but trying to draw too much power from a fan header can short something on the motherboard or melt something (depends on the quality of the parts).
So I'm guessing the reason you are fine with 5 fans, are that they ether require less then 12W combined or that they run at a % that makes them draw less then 12W total.
If you have a spare SATA, plug it in to be safe.


----------



## smkd13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Asyde*
> 
> Hey guys! First time posting on these forums. Just finished my new build in the Evolv ATX case and thought i'd share! Here she is!
> 
> Specs:
> Phanteks Evolve ATX
> Asus X99Deluxe II
> Intel i7-5930K @ 3.5ghz (not overclocked yet)
> Gigabyte G1 GTX1070
> 32GB GSKILL 3200 RAM (painted teal)
> 2x 500GB Samsung 850 SSD in Raid 0
> SeaSonic 1000W Platinum PSU
> Ensourced Teal Cable Extensions
> Corsair AF & SP Series Fans (painted teal)
> 
> Cooling:
> EK 360 (top) & EK 280 radiator (front)
> EK PWM Pump
> Primochill CTR Reservoir & Coolant (with distilled water)
> Primochill clear tubing (hidden underneath)
> Custom Polished/Clear Coated Copper tubing
> Bitspower Fittings


loving this build man. gave me some great ideas for how i want to do my Evolv


----------



## mrpurplehawk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chiobe*
> 
> It depends on the fans, but trying to draw too much power from a fan header can short something on the motherboard or melt something (depends on the quality of the parts).
> So I'm guessing the reason you are fine with 5 fans, are that they ether require less then 12W combined or that they run at a % that makes them draw less then 12W total.
> If you have a spare SATA, plug it in to be safe.


I'll plug it in then, I typically keep those at 25% unless I am playing a demanding game in which case I bump it to the 75%. Only things connected are the 5 case fans it comes with. I just wish MSI had better fan controller, my Asus one was much much better but then again but Asus boards both died so at this works lol


----------



## smkd13

This is my current build so far kinda still a work in progress though.

Specs:
Phanteks Evolv ATX
Gigabyte Gaming-6
Intel 6600 non-K (soon to be 6700K)
16GB HyperX Fury 2133 (soon to be 32GB HyperX Savage 2800)
Samsung 850 EVO SSD 256GB
1TB WD Blue Drive
Nvidia GTX 550 Ti (Soon to be GTX1080)
Cryorig R9 Ultimate
EVGA 750 G2 Power Supply

(just if you wondering 24C idle and 34C under load)

Plans are full water with some mods to the case for some improved airflow.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vaoqeRG*
> 
> Guys, it booted!
> 
> First build of my life and it booted first time!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I love you all and I am very thankful for all the help and advice you've given me on this, it was so frustrating trying to read all the manuals but we got there
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All the fans are coming under CHA1 FAN in Asus' BIOS, and the RPM on them keeps changing so I am assuming PWM function worked. Regarding the point @Chiobe raised, I did not connect the case PWM controlled hub to SATA. I will connect it though just in case. I was surprised all the fans worked from CHA_FAN header only.
> 
> Again I can not express my thanks.
> 
> Edit:
> 
> The actual case since we are in the Phanteks club:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Not plugging in the PSU power when running several fans may overload the motherboard fan header with the possilbity of letting the smoke out. (burn up the header)

See below explanation.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mrpurplehawk*
> 
> What exactly would happen if I didn't do this? I have been running mine without that plugged in for almost a month now without issue. Only running 5 fans attached to the PWM hub currently


If you are using PH-F140SP fans, their specificatons say they are 0.14A each. 5x 0.14A fans is 0.7A .. and this sounds like it's not problem for a 1.0A rated fan header.
*WRONG!!*

Fan rating of 0.14 at 12v power on a fan in free air is not the maximum load the fan will draw when starting up or the load the fan will be drawing when running at 12v in airflow with the resistance of a radiator or a grill, or a grill and filter. More resistance to airflow increases fan load lowering it's speed and increases the amperage load it is using.
Most all fan companies only show a running load.








Running load rating in free air is obviously not the actual running load of fan pushing / pulling air in actual use .. and definitely is not as high as startup load is (or load if fan stalls).

For example, here is Nidec-Servo specifications for Gentle Typhoon showing 12 volt fan running load rating versus startup load chart.

The 4250rpm fan rating is 0.56 amp, it's startup load is 1.21 amp .. about 2.16 times more power used when starting.
The 1850rpm fan rating is 0.083 amp with a startup load of 0.36 amp .. about 4.34 times more power used during startup!

It is important to also remember that a stalled fan (fan drawing power but not turning) is drawing basically the same amount of power as it does at startup load.
I think you can see out your 0.12 amp 12 volt running load in free air is approximately 0.5 amp startup.. menaing 2x Gentle Typhoon 0.10 amp rated fans could be drawing 1 amp while starting up when your system is booting .. and if you are trying to start 3 of these, you just might hear fans begin to start, go silent, and then notice the smell of burnt electronics.


----------



## mrpurplehawk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Not plugging in the PSU power when running several fans may overload the motherboard fan header with the possilbity of letting the smoke out. (burn up the header)
> 
> See below explanation.
> If you are using PH-F140SP fans, their specificatons say they are 0.14A each. 5x 0.14A fans is 0.7A .. and this sounds like it's not problem for a 1.0A rated fan header.
> *WRONG!!*
> 
> Maximum draw of 0.12A at 12v power on a fan running 1930rpm in free air is not the maximum load the fan will draw when starting up. It is also not the load the fan will be drawing when running at 12v in airflow with the resistance of a radiator or a gril, or a grill and filter. More resistance to airflow increases fan load lowering it's speed and increases the amperage load it is using.
> Noctua only show a maximum of 0.1amp.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Running load rating in free air is obviously not the actual running load of fan pushing / pulling air in actual use .. nor is it startup load.
> 
> For example, here is Nidec-Servo specifications for Gentle Typhoon showing 12 volt fan running load rating versus startup load chart.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The 4250rpm fan rating is 0.56 amp, it's startup load is 1.21 amp .. about 2.16 times more power used when starting.
> The 1850rpm fan rating is 0.083 amp with a startup load of 0.36 amp .. about 4.34 times more power used during startup!
> 
> It is important to also remember that a stalled fan (fan drawing power but not turning) is drawing basically the same amount of power as it does at startup load.
> I think you can see out your 0.12 amp 12 volt running load in free air is approximately 0.5 amp startup.. menaing 2x Gentle Typhoon 0.10 amp rated fans could be drawing 1 amp while starting up when your system is booting .. and if you are trying to start 3 of these, you just might hear fans begin to start, go silent, and then notice the smell of burnt electronics.


Some good info there, I'll make sure I plug it in when I get home, I generally don't have my PC off so they probably have only started up 3-4 times since I have owned the case


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mrpurplehawk*
> 
> Some good info there, I'll make sure I plug it in when I get home, I generally don't have my PC off so they probably have only started up 3-4 times since I have owned the case


You are not the only one running more fans than theory / calculations say is really safe .. and usually it's not a problem. But the facts are it can be a serious problem.









And if your fans all run full speed when you plug in the PSU you know your fan header is not PWM or not set to PWM in bios.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smkd13*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is my current build so far kinda still a work in progress though.
> 
> Specs:
> Phanteks Evolv ATX
> Gigabyte Gaming-6
> Intel 6600 non-K (soon to be 6700K)
> 16GB HyperX Fury 2133 (soon to be 32GB HyperX Savage 2800)
> Samsung 850 EVO SSD 256GB
> 1TB WD Blue Drive
> Nvidia GTX 550 Ti (Soon to be GTX1080)
> Cryorig R9 Ultimate
> EVGA 750 G2 Power Supply
> 
> (just if you wondering 24C idle and 34C under load)
> 
> Plans are full water with some mods to the case for some improved airflow.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Looks very nice!
Good temps too!
Why spend more to go H2O?


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> You are not the only one running more fans than theory / calculations say is really safe .. and usually it's not a problem. But the facts are it can be a serious problem.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And if your fans all run full speed when you plug in the PSU you know your fan header is not PWM or not set to PWM in bios.


im definately over the limits with mine then...i only have 6 sata plugs so im left running the phanteks hub without one because i have two pumps and the swiftech splitter and two ssds and a mechanical....i have three phanteks 140s (stock primo fans)and a cougar 120 running off the splitter without a sata hopefully it doesnt present a problem


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smkd13*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is my current build so far kinda still a work in progress though.
> 
> Specs:
> Phanteks Evolv ATX
> Gigabyte Gaming-6
> Intel 6600 non-K (soon to be 6700K)
> 16GB HyperX Fury 2133 (soon to be 32GB HyperX Savage 2800)
> Samsung 850 EVO SSD 256GB
> 1TB WD Blue Drive
> Nvidia GTX 550 Ti (Soon to be GTX1080)
> Cryorig R9 Ultimate
> EVGA 750 G2 Power Supply
> 
> (just if you wondering 24C idle and 34C under load)
> 
> Plans are full water with some mods to the case for some improved airflow.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Really nice looking build.









But....either you have a tiny unicorn inside the case blowing LN2 on the CPU, or your definition of "load" differs greatly from the generally accepted term. "Load" would refer to "while running OCCT, AIDA64 stress test, x264, etc", not "while web browsing". The R1 is a fantastic cooler, but your results are ~20C lower than what an actual load test would produce on that CPU in ideal circumstances.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> im definately over the limits with mine then...i only have 6 sata plugs so im left running the phanteks hub without one because i have two pumps and the swiftech splitter and two ssds and a mechanical....i have three phanteks 140s (stock primo fans)and a cougar 120 running off the splitter without a sata hopefully it doesnt present a problem


You may want to weigh the option of making a $3.00 investment to protect your MB - https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-PYO2SATA-Power-Splitter-Adapter/dp/B002N2EHVQ/


----------



## Testing12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Argowashi*
> 
> Will the Asus Rampage V Edition 10 fit inside the Phanteks Enthoo Evolv ATX if I remove the backplate?


Do a search for the user 'Sazexa' here in this thread. He's successfully mounted an ASUS Rampage V Edition 10 into his Evolv ATX and has documented the problems he faced and how he overcame them. He's left several messages which have included pics.


----------



## Sazexa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Valgaur*
> 
> Hello!
> 
> Been looking around and I have 2 question on the Phanteks Evolv ATX TG.
> 
> #1. How are people mounting their res's and pumps, or combos?
> 
> #2. What radiators seem to be the best fits for performance and clearances?
> 
> I would like to run a 360, possibly 60mm rad, in the front in intake push, with a top 240, normal size, in exhaust push. Trying to plan either a hardline or soft tubing WC build, would cool a 6700K OC'ed and 1080.
> 
> Would greatly appreciate any help in my planning!


1. I used EK's bracket to mount a pump/reservoir combo to my front mounted radiator.

2. While it is possible to do two 360 mm radiators with the right radiators and some determination, I'd recommend either a 360 in the front and 280 up top, or 280 in the front and 360 up to.


----------



## springs113

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Testing12*
> 
> Do a search for the user 'Sazexa' here in this thread. He's successfully mounted an ASUS Rampage V Edition 10 into his Evolv ATX and has documented the problems he faced and how he overcame them. He's left several messages which have included pics.


I'll be doing the same as well with thicker rads, I have all the pieces just haven't put the time into it just jet...getting a jump start on the competition in nba 2k


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sazexa*
> 
> 1. I used EK's bracket to mount a pump/reservoir combo to my front mounted radiator.
> 
> 2. While it is possible to do two 360 mm radiators with the right radiators and some determination, I'd recommend either a 360 in the front and 280 up top, or 280 in the front and 360 up to.


Two 360mm generally requires the top rad to be an EK 360SE....which is a horrible rad. Literally the worst performing 360mm on the market, and it isn't even close. Far, far better off with a good quality 280mm as you suggest.


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Valgaur*
> 
> Hello!
> 
> Been looking around and I have 2 question on the Phanteks Evolv ATX TG.
> 
> #1. How are people mounting their res's and pumps, or combos?
> 
> #2. What radiators seem to be the best fits for performance and clearances?
> 
> I would like to run a 360, possibly 60mm rad, in the front in intake push, with a top 240, normal size, in exhaust push. Trying to plan either a hardline or soft tubing WC build, would cool a 6700K OC'ed and 1080.
> 
> Would greatly appreciate any help in my planning!


1. That is a tricky one. Obviously the easiest is using the existing mounts, but most rad configs don't make that possible. Second is a radiator mount (EG. Singularity Computers Ethereal). Third, is make your own holes. On the first option, you can actually


http://imgur.com/txYtB

.

2. Dual 360 is easily the best combo for performance, but if you want to do one thick rad, and or not use the crap EK SE, you need to mod the top mounts. 240 (normal) + 360 (thick) should be plenty for a 6700K+1080 but like other have said, a quality 280mm rad would be better (HWL GTS). I would consider maybe not even doing a thick rad just so you can have more options for res mounting. With one GPU, you won't notice a significant temp difference.

3. There is no question the best thick rads are the Hardware Labs SR2, GTX and the EK CoolStream XE (having the most cooling capacity) The XE is best in push/pull and requires higher fan speeds, while the HWL rads fine with just push and lower fans speeds. IMO, if you can measure out if a res would fit mounted to the rad, I would go with an SR2 or GTX in push and then mount the res to the rad. If that is too tight, I would then go with the HWL GTS.

Do you already have the 240mm rad?


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> 2. Dual 360 is easily the best combo for performance, but if you want to do one thick rad, and or not use the crap EK SE, you need to mod the top mounts. 240 (normal) + 360 (thick) should be plenty for a 6700K+1080 but like other have said, a quality 280mm rad would be better (HWL GTS). Although, to make your life easier (especially res mounting),


I don't agree. Your choices for dual360 are the 360 SE, which is easily outperformed by a decent 280mm, or trying to stuff fans up against the top which kills the airflow and makes the top rad essentially useless. I would say that a 360+280 is easily the best combo for performance.

Another case of the *right* equipment being a better choice than simply trying to use *more* equipment.


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> I don't agree. Your choices for dual360 are the 360 SE, which is easily outperformed by a decent 280mm, or trying to stuff fans up against the top which kills the airflow and makes the top rad essentially useless. I would say that a 360+280 is easily the best combo for performance.
> 
> Another case of the *right* equipment being a better choice than simply trying to use *more* equipment.


I believe some people have mounted their rads lower using a home made brace (which IMO is better/easier than drilling through the braces on the top). Considering this isn't the "normal" method and would not be assumed, you are correct.


----------



## Valgaur

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> 1. That is a tricky one. Obviously the easiest is using the existing mounts, but most rad configs don't make that possible. Second is a radiator mount (EG. Singularity Computers Ethereal). Third, is make your own holes. On the first option, you can actually
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/txYtB
> 
> .
> 
> 2. Dual 360 is easily the best combo for performance, but if you want to do one thick rad, and or not use the crap EK SE, you need to mod the top mounts. 240 (normal) + 360 (thick) should be plenty for a 6700K+1080 but like other have said, a quality 280mm rad would be better (HWL GTS). I would consider maybe not even doing a thick rad just so you can have more options for res mounting. With one GPU, you won't notice a significant temp difference.
> 
> 3. There is no question the best thick rads are the Hardware Labs SR2, GTX and the EK CoolStream XE (having the most cooling capacity) The XE is best in push/pull and requires higher fan speeds, while the HWL rads fine with just push and lower fans speeds. IMO, if you can measure out if a res would fit mounted to the rad, I would go with an SR2 or GTX in push and then mount the res to the rad. If that is too tight, I would then go with the HWL GTS.
> 
> Do you already have the 240mm rad?


I currently don't have any of the cooling components. This will be my first WC build, however I've been looking and researching for years. I think I'll go with a normal thickness 360 up front and 240 up to. Thanks for the rad mounting for the res/pump, what are good res/pump combos? Or should I have the pump separate?


----------



## springs113

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Valgaur*
> 
> I currently don't have any of the cooling components. This will be my first WC build, however I've been looking and researching for years. I think I'll go with a normal thickness 360 up front and 240 up to. Thanks for the rad mounting for the res/pump, what are good res/pump combos? Or should I have the pump separate?


I went with the EK Xres 3.2 ddc 100 pump/res combo


----------



## vaoqeRG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dlewbell*
> 
> You DO want to connect that SATA power adapter to the PSU if you're using a PWM header on your motherboard (sounds like you will be). The only time that shouldn't be connected is if you're using a voltage-controlled motherboard header, & in that situation you'd want to limit the number of fans you connect to avoid overloading the header.
> 
> I'll leave the LED connector questions to someone who actually has the Primo.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chiobe*
> 
> Sounds about right. You still need the SATA for the PWM hub, as the motherboard cant power that many fans (12W/1A is about max a motherboard header can handle).
> I still think its stupid that its a female molex for extra LEDs, as most (if not all) PSUs comes with female molex.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Not plugging in the PSU power when running several fans may overload the motherboard fan header with the possilbity of letting the smoke out. (burn up the header)
> 
> See below explanation.
> If you are using PH-F140SP fans, their specificatons say they are 0.14A each. 5x 0.14A fans is 0.7A .. and this sounds like it's not problem for a 1.0A rated fan header.
> *WRONG!!*
> 
> Fan rating of 0.14 at 12v power on a fan in free air is not the maximum load the fan will draw when starting up or the load the fan will be drawing when running at 12v in airflow with the resistance of a radiator or a grill, or a grill and filter. More resistance to airflow increases fan load lowering it's speed and increases the amperage load it is using.
> Most all fan companies only show a running load.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Running load rating in free air is obviously not the actual running load of fan pushing / pulling air in actual use .. and definitely is not as high as startup load is (or load if fan stalls).
> 
> For example, here is Nidec-Servo specifications for Gentle Typhoon showing 12 volt fan running load rating versus startup load chart.
> 
> The 4250rpm fan rating is 0.56 amp, it's startup load is 1.21 amp .. about 2.16 times more power used when starting.
> The 1850rpm fan rating is 0.083 amp with a startup load of 0.36 amp .. about 4.34 times more power used during startup!
> 
> It is important to also remember that a stalled fan (fan drawing power but not turning) is drawing basically the same amount of power as it does at startup load.
> I think you can see out your 0.12 amp 12 volt running load in free air is approximately 0.5 amp startup.. menaing 2x Gentle Typhoon 0.10 amp rated fans could be drawing 1 amp while starting up when your system is booting .. and if you are trying to start 3 of these, you just might hear fans begin to start, go silent, and then notice the smell of burnt electronics.


Many thanks all. I went back and attached the case PWM hub to PSU via SATA and everything is working well now.

The fans were definitely starved for power as the 5 fans connected to CHA_FAN1 had an RPM of 866 but as soon as I connected the hub to PSU it went up to 1266 RPM without me changing any settings. So I think it was due to not getting enough power.

Are temps of 35 degrees for cpu at idle inside the BIOS normal? I am using a D15s on a 5960x at stock.


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Valgaur*
> 
> I currently don't have any of the cooling components. This will be my first WC build, however I've been looking and researching for years. I think I'll go with a normal thickness 360 up front and 240 up to. Thanks for the rad mounting for the res/pump, what are good res/pump combos? Or should I have the pump separate?


I made this mistake on my first go around, DO NOT forget to make a drain valve part of your loop. The res should have a fill port, but if it doesn't, add that as well. I forgot to do this (expanded AIO loop) and it made filling/draining my loop an absolute nightmare.

I am not an expert on pumps or reservoirs but most people seem to do combined units (less fittings, less complicated). 1 DDC or D5 will be fine. Most people seem to go with D5.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> You may want to weigh the option of making a $3.00 investment to protect your MB - https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-PYO2SATA-Power-Splitter-Adapter/dp/B002N2EHVQ/


oh nice is there a limit to how many i can run off a single lead wouldnt want to overload the psu or burn a connector...my psu leads are like 16 gauge for each wire so not very robust...


----------



## bigdayve

Hi, I just got an Enthoo Pro last week. I got the Titanium Green because it matches my living room. I'm happy with the case!! I'm curious about air cooling options such as modding it to put a 140mm in the optical drive bay. Looking forward to being a member of this group!

The case came with a broken fan, but Phanteks sent me a new one and Newegg gave me a $10 credit that I used to purchase Bioshock Infinite


----------



## Sazexa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Two 360mm generally requires the top rad to be an EK 360SE....which is a horrible rad. Literally the worst performing 360mm on the market, and it isn't even close. Far, far better off with a good quality 280mm as you suggest.


I'm not asking in a defensive manner, but more just genuinely curious: What's so bad about the EK SE 360? Right now, with the SE 360 and PE 360, my temps are pretty decent, I feel. My two GPU's and CPU overclocked from 3.0 GHz to 4.0 GHz, all run pretty cool. With the CPU and two GPU's all at 100% load, the CPU never exceeds 80C and each GPU maxes out around 65C.


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sazexa*
> 
> I'm not asking in a defensive manner, but more just genuinely curious: What's so bad about the EK SE 360? Right now, with the SE 360 and PE 360, my temps are pretty decent, I feel. My two GPU's and CPU overclocked from 3.0 GHz to 4.0 GHz, all run pretty cool. With the CPU and two GPU's all at 100% load, the CPU never exceeds 80C and each GPU maxes out around 65C.


http://www.xtremerigs.net/2015/02/11/radiator-round-2015/6/ The XE was top performer in this review, but the SE is dead last.


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sazexa*
> 
> I'm not asking in a defensive manner, but more just genuinely curious: What's so bad about the EK SE 360? Right now, with the SE 360 and PE 360, my temps are pretty decent, I feel. My two GPU's and CPU overclocked from 3.0 GHz to 4.0 GHz, all run pretty cool. With the CPU and two GPU's all at 100% load, the CPU never exceeds 80C and each GPU maxes out around 65C.


simply put, it's a 360 rad that take up the space of a 360 rad while performing lik a 240 rad.


----------



## Argowashi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chiobe*
> 
> E-ATX *(up to 264mm wide), is what is available. The angled wall with rubber grommets can give you a few mm more, but whether you can get the exta 8mm you need without bending the motherboard or shorting something, I dont know. I have seem people do it, but not sure if that is with standard screws and motherboard stand-offs.
> Also, I dont think the backplate is the problem. If anything, so will it make it less unlike to bend or short.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Testing12*
> 
> Do a search for the user 'Sazexa' here in this thread. He's successfully mounted an ASUS Rampage V Edition 10 into his Evolv ATX and has documented the problems he faced and how he overcame them. He's left several messages which have included pics.


Thanks for the info, it seems like it's doable. Think I'm going to order an Enthoo Evolv ATX Tempered Glass Edition and the Rampage V Extreme Edition 10.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bigdayve*
> 
> Hi, I just got an Enthoo Pro last week. I got the Titanium Green because it matches my living room. I'm happy with the case!! I'm curious about air cooling options such as modding it to put a 140mm in the optical drive bay. Looking forward to being a member of this group!
> 
> The case came with a broken fan, but Phanteks sent me a new one and Newegg gave me a $10 credit that I used to purchase Bioshock Infinite


Yes, a fan can be put in the 3x optical bays. But you shouldn't need to do that. What are your load temps now?
Most common fan setup for Enthoo Pro is to replace the PH-F200SP wiht 2x PH=F140SP in front and standard 1x back.


----------



## Chiobe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Argowashi*
> 
> Thanks for the info, it seems like it's doable. Think I'm going to order an Enthoo Evolv ATX Tempered Glass Edition and the Rampage V Extreme Edition 10.


Just buy from a place that lets you return it, if you cant do it.
Just because someone else did it, so dont that mean that you can replicate it without problems (different parts or lack of something the other person used).
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PureBlackFire*
> 
> simply put, it's a 360 rad that take up the space of a 360 rad while performing lik a 240 rad.


So the EK SE is not worth using at all? The problem is that Alphacool ST30 is not that much better.
55mm-60mm (fan included) and 120mm width, is what seems to be minimum standard for calling it meant for radiators. Meaning you dont always have a choice, with your current case.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sazexa*
> 
> I'm not asking in a defensive manner, but more just genuinely curious: What's so bad about the EK SE 360? Right now, with the SE 360 and PE 360, my temps are pretty decent, I feel. My two GPU's and CPU overclocked from 3.0 GHz to 4.0 GHz, all run pretty cool. With the CPU and two GPU's all at 100% load, the CPU never exceeds 80C and each GPU maxes out around 65C.


The issue has already been shown by @rfarmer, and summed up by @PureBlackFire. Any good quality 280mm is going to outperform the 360SE by a fair margin, and is going to go into the EVOLV ATX cleanly with better airflow. The great thing being, that you get no perceptual difference in the look (since that is the only reason people are compelled to do two 360mm in this case) since the midplate blocks the empty space below the 280. So, same look, better performance, better airflow.


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chiobe*
> 
> So the EK SE is not worth using at all? The problem is that Alphacool ST30 is not that much better.
> 55mm-60mm (fan included) and 120mm width, is what seems to be minimum standard for calling it meant for radiators. Meaning you dont always have a choice, with your current case.


and here I thought I put it simply. you can have the same performance and cooling from a 240 rad. no need to squeeze a 360 in a case with the SE performing like a 240 rad (unless you already own it or have made wonderful contributions to help others like @sazexa). as for ST30, no idea why you even brought that up, but with it's dimensions it's the standard thin 360 rad, I wouldn't even buy it over the 360GTS that is the same size and performs better. unless you're in a market that where you have Alphacool and EK to choose from, no HWLabs or Magicool G2 slim (second best slim rad behind GTS IMO).


----------



## Chiobe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PureBlackFire*
> 
> and here I thought I put it simply. you can have the same performance and cooling from a 240 rad. no need to squeeze a 360 in a case with the SE performing like a 240 rad (unless you already own it or have made wonderful contributions to help others like @sazexa). as for ST30, no idea why you even brought that up, but with it's dimensions it's the standard thin 360 rad, I wouldn't even buy it over the 360GTS that is the same size and performs better. unless you're in a market that where you have Alphacool and EK to choose from, no HWLabs or Magicool G2 slim (second best slim rad behind GTS IMO).


Magicool G2 slim would work, but the 360GTS is 133mm wide and not all cases supports that (specially small form factor cases).
Hence my statement that you might not have much choice in choosing radiators for certain cases (not all shops have all brands, as well).

But guess I need to select a case/design one, before worrying about what can fit in it.


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> BTW, my top is totally sealed off, even the cable grommet areas.
> 
> I'm attempting an experiment to see if the top restriction problem is a matter of vent area or turbulence. Long story short, I'm walling off the perimeter of the inner top cavity and then creating a diffuser (like on the back of a race car) over the rad area. Hopefully this results in smoother airflow and consequently lower temps.
> 
> I'm also going to see what taping off specific vents does (in combination with the other variables).


Small update to that post.

From what I can tell, creating a diffuser doesn't do much... however... sealing of the perimeter of the top cavity does moderately increase airflow (which should help cooling). I'm still working on it, but the short version is to create an angled wall around your rad area and then seal off the dead space (area with no rad below it). What I presume this is doing is preventing the air from getting "caught" in the top cavity, reducing turbulence and increasing flow.

Please note my testing method was very scientific pieces of paper tapped to the vents.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> Small update to this post.
> 
> From what I can tell, creating a diffuser doesn't do much... however... sealing of the perimeter of the top cavity does moderately increase airflow (which should help cooling). I'm still working on it, but the short version is to create an angled wall around your rad area and then seal off the dead space (area with no rad below it). What I presume this is doing is preventing the air from getting "caught" in the top cavity, reducing turbulence and increasing flow.
> 
> Please note my testing method was very scientific pieces of paper tapped to the vents.


I like where you are going with this, but am a little confused about exactly where you are sealing. Can you post a pic?


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> I like where you are going with this, but am a little confused about exactly where you are sealing. Can you post a pic?


It is all taken apart ATM as I am going to redo it with acrylic vs cardboard. But this is a rough sketch...



The grey area would go up to but not cover the top braces, but otherwise that is about what it would look like.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> It is all taken apart ATM as I am going to redo it with acrylic vs cardboard. But this is a rough sketch...
> 
> 
> 
> The grey area would go up to but not cover the top braces, but otherwise that is about what it would look like.


I thought about doing something similar with foam. Interested to see how this turns out.


----------



## bigdayve

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Yes, a fan can be put in the 3x optical bays. But you shouldn't need to do that. What are your load temps now?
> Most common fan setup for Enthoo Pro is to replace the PH-F200SP wiht 2x PH=F140SP in front and standard 1x back.


I'm considering that. Right now i like the 200mm fan because I've never had one, but I doubt it would perform as well as 2x140. It seems I could sell the 200mm fan on ebay and replace it with two used 140mm fans at no cost.

My cooling is adequate, but not OCD and overclocking optimized.

On the image below, I had the stock 200 and 140 in their default locations. I had two 120mm fans on the top of the case set to exhaust toward the back end of the case. I also had 3 fans on my NB/VRM heatsink. My CPU cooler is a CM212 Evo set to pull. Last, but not least, I had a 140mm fan set as intake on the back of the motherboard behind the socket/MOFSET.


----------



## smkd13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Looks very nice!
> Good temps too!
> Why spend more to go H2O?


Cause I am going to be jumping to w i7 unlocked and want better doing for that
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Really nice looking build.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But....either you have a tiny unicorn inside the case blowing LN2 on the CPU, or your definition of "load" differs greatly from the generally accepted term. "Load" would refer to "while running OCCT, AIDA64 stress test, x264, etc", not "while web browsing". The R1 is a fantastic cooler, but your results are ~20C lower than what an actual load test would produce on that CPU in ideal circumstances.


That was with the Intel app and ran test for 1hr. I will run one with a actual stress test and then post that up the results. Ha ha oh LN2 would be sweet but no. This thing almost never sees the web. It is mainly used for gaming and photo editing.

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smkd13*
> 
> Cause I am going to be jumping to w i7 unlocked and want better doing for that
> That was with the Intel app and ran test for 1hr. I will run one with a actual stress test and then post that up the results. Ha ha oh LN2 would be sweet but no. This thing almost never sees the web. It is mainly used for gaming and photo editing.
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


The Intel app that specifies temps in "Distance To TJ Max"? That would explain it, since it would not be the temp reading, it would be how many degrees from overheating it is.


----------



## bigdayve

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> You are going fan crazy. You are OCD.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> More fans don't mean better cooling. Proper airflow means better cooling. Proper airlfow in your case for most builds (air cooled builds) is 2x PH-F140SP in front as intake and 1x PH-F140SP in back as exhaust. You don't need H2O to overclock. A top tier air coolers will give plenty of cooling for a nice daily use overclock. The PH-F200SP is simply not a good fan. You might be able to sell it for enough to get 1 decent 140mm fans, but not two.


At some point I'll probably replace the front fan. I'm not a fan of water cooling either and I would rather have a big air cooler. With my current build, the evo fits my needs. The extra fans in my build did help lower temperatures on my old case. I tested them and found improvement, with the exception of the Northbridge fan. That said, I could remove at least a couple fans and maintain decent thermal margins.

Side note, I put a fan as intake at the top of my case toward the front. The idea is to feed some cool air toward the CPU Cooler. It seems to have helped lower CPU temps.


----------



## Kajel

I'm thinking about moding my Enthoo Evolv ATX Glass. Hot air is getting trapped in the top cover and the case is becoming a hot box. My monoblock and gpu block work well with temps staying around 42~C. Has anyone cut the top cover to let hot air out? This grill looks ok https://www.amazon.com/AC-Infinity-Ventilation-Computer-Electronic/dp/B010FAW5KM/ref=pd_rhf_gw_p_img_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=GP64FYYZAW2T0ZGWP26K



Do you think it would look good on the black case?


----------



## dlewbell

It's been done fairly recently. The owner seems to be happy with his results. See the original post here: http://www.overclock.net/t/1418637/official-case-phanteks-case-club-for-lovers-owners/15020_20#post_25498860
If you read a bit further into the thread past that post, I think there's more information about the results, but I'm just going on memory for that.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kajel*
> 
> I'm thinking about moding my Enthoo Evolv ATX Glass. Hot air is getting trapped in the top cover and the case is becoming a hot box. My monoblock and gpu block work well with temps staying around 42~C. Has anyone cut the top cover to let hot air out? This grill looks ok https://www.amazon.com/AC-Infinity-Ventilation-Computer-Electronic/dp/B010FAW5KM/ref=pd_rhf_gw_p_img_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=GP64FYYZAW2T0ZGWP26K
> 
> 
> 
> Do you think it would look good on the black case?


Have you blocked the unused openings in the radiator bracket?
http://www.overclock.net/t/1418637/official-case-phanteks-case-club-for-lovers-owners/13700_20#post_25268315

The top can be removed easily. In fact once the mounting screws are removed it just clips off and on. Details in above link.
Just setting the top on it's latches after removing the screws and unclipping it almost triples the airflow area.








http://www.overclock.net/t/1418637/official-case-phanteks-case-club-for-lovers-owners/13240_20#post_25198233


----------



## Kajel

Thanks dlewbell and doyll for the info. I am running a 360 rad in the top so I will try closing off the slits on the bracket to see if that helps.
And try not clipping the top down. I'm still leaning towards the mod though. Would be nice to find a Mod shop that could CNC the vents in the top. Better yet if Phanteks would sell a vented top.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kajel*
> 
> Thanks dlewbell and doyll for the info. I am running a 360 rad in the top so I will try closing off the slits on the bracket to see if that helps.
> And try not clipping the top down. I'm still leaning towards the mod though. Would be nice to find a Mod shop that could CNC the vents in the top. Better yet if Phanteks would sell a vented top.


A custom vent cut into top (and front) would be great, but also problematic in that it will chip the finish, meaning finsh would need to be stripped and re-painted.

Maybe with a little begging we could get someone like MNPCTech to make some custom front and top panels.


----------



## Kajel

That's why I wanted the oversized grill that would cover the raw edge. Also, a 4.5" hole saw would cut the 120mm holes correctly.


----------



## doyll

5.5" hole saw makes 140mm fan hole .. and 2x 140mm vents (fans) move as much air as 3x 120mm vents (fans).


----------



## welshy46

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kajel*
> 
> I'm thinking about moding my Enthoo Evolv ATX Glass. Hot air is getting trapped in the top cover and the case is becoming a hot box. My monoblock and gpu block work well with temps staying around 42~C. Has anyone cut the top cover to let hot air out? This grill looks ok https://www.amazon.com/AC-Infinity-Ventilation-Computer-Electronic/dp/B010FAW5KM/ref=pd_rhf_gw_p_img_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=GP64FYYZAW2T0ZGWP26K
> 
> 
> 
> Do you think it would look good on the black case?


I did a similar thing to my Evolv ITx as the top of the case was like a skillet. To avoid warping the top panel when using a hole saw. sandwich the cutting surface between two pieces of MDF or other wood. You can screw through where you have marked out the holes for the fan grill screws to secure the wood and top cover. Your looking at around $50 for the hole saw though, and as do@doyll has already mentioned. Two 140mm holes would be preferable to 120mm.

Here's mine. The fan grill is a 140mm from MNPCtech my potato camera doesn't do it justice.


----------



## doyll

@welshy46, if you had a choice would you use a grill that fit into the hole you cut in top panel?
So it was only a few mm above the top surface rather than full thickness.
So the rectangular frame was about the same height above case panel as it is above your round grills.


----------



## welshy46

@doyll Ideally I would have sent the top panel off to have the grills cut directly out of the panel itself. The thick aluminium grill does overpower the build a bit. Mute point on that case now though. I'm just starting a scratch build to replace it.

Mayhem's do some nice 1 mm thick steel fan grills in a range of designs.


----------



## Risley

So I have the enthoo pro M acrylic case and have some headphones with an in line mic. These are the head phones

https://www.amazon.com/Sony-MDREX15AP-Fashion-Earbud-Headset/dp/B00JG2WRUO/ref=pd_sim_23_3?ie=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00JG2WRUO&pd_rd_r=A5RVWXHA0GNPYYMP4E3R&pd_rd_w=HQbRV&pd_rd_wg=Sipke&psc=1&refRID=A5RVWXHA0GNPYYMP4E3R

I'm trying to use the mic with the plug in the front of the case. I've plugged the headphones into the mic port but the computer isn't detecting a mic. Does anyone know if the port on the case is capable of this, or do I have to plug in a mic and headphones separately into the each port.


----------



## springs113

Messing around and fitted my rampage v edition 10 in the evolv tg. I also kept my led backplate on the board as well. I wanted to use my thicker rads but i opted to just go out and try something new. I picked up 2 EK rads...360 and 240 PE. I have to say i have bought rads from xspc, hardware labs, swiftech and koolance...EK rads are the worst in my opinion when it comes to debris in the rads. Hardware labs have been the best almost requiring no flush. With my setup i really wanted not to have to take the led backplate off the r5e10 and didn't really want to mess with the integrity of the case, but i knew for certain i wanted a phanteks case but don't want to shell out $700 for the elite, the evolv was my next favorite case but i thought it was too small for my components and then of course reading about the mobo clearance issue. I eventually decided to try with the mobo in the case and just measure(eyes) the clearance issue. I duct taped the area as needed and for the first time ever, i brought my dremel to my beloved chassy. When it was all said and done i guess-timated, i cut out a little over a quarter inch and the motherboard sits nice and flat in the case. I am not finish however as the tubing runs was just a temporary look to see my options. I've settled on this look, i also need fittings as i didn't purchase any but now since i did this loop i realize the fittings needed.
What do you guys think?
Should i change anything


----------



## lazyalam

Alright decided not to mess with that tint. But now another problem, none of my LEDs are turning on (front and power). This is how it's wired


----------



## CobraPlissken

Quote:


> Here's mine. The fan grill is a 140mm from MNPCtech my potato camera doesn't do it justice.




I did this thing long time ago. I upgrade later to a eatx therefore i needed a bigger case and got the enthoo pro.
Now i got a atx board again and still have some love for the atx evolv.

But because i had heat problems with the enthoo itx in the past and had to cut open the top im struggeling.
I got now a corsair h100i gt 280 rad. I would probably try to get air inside through the radiator because the top panel of the enthoo will surely heat up again.
Im always wondering if people with a evolv atx and 5820 5830 or something similiar have heat problems if they push heat to the top panel.

To me the evolv is one of the most beautiful cases out but also it felt on the itx almost like a closed case...

And yes i have put a m-atx board with a 5820k in a enthoo itx...the heat is real









but it seems the atx version does heat up on the top aswell :S


----------



## hht92

Hello guys, one of these days i will upload photos from my Enthoo Pro with the 2x140mm Thermalright TY-147A in the front, i say this from now its very tight BUT the price is very low compared to noctua.
Sorry @doyll i had to upload them months before.


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> I thought about doing something similar with foam. Interested to see how this turns out.


I ended up using vinyl wrap to close off the top. From what I can tell at this stage the results are likely to be a whole bunch of nothing.

The only effect was bringing the stock top position a little closer to the resting on clips solution (but not beating it). Resting on clips got me to 36-37c (water temps) while stock was 38c. Compared to my last test which had a +3c difference between the position respectively, adding the vinyl brought it to a difference of 1-2c. So a small improvement, but not worth the effort.

IMO next revision, Phanteks needs more vent surface area. The front vents shouldn't be blocked by the front USB panel. The back vent should be deeper and maybe integrate with the case frame. And the side vents should be bigger. In other news, the sky is blue.


----------



## smkd13

so here is my current idea to expand the airflow on the top of the case for a top mounted radiator. Each dot will be a ~1/8" hole drilled through the plate. (this is a rough draft and was done in paint so pay no attention to the horrible quaility and possibly more than likely off lines and colors)




there are two options that are available. I can leave the hole raw metal and have them shiny or i can have the bare metal annodized to another color (for instance Red). This will also bring the option for some lighting effect to show through the holes as well.


----------



## springs113

All done but i have a leak. My fitting from the res to the cpu have a leak around the rotary area. I have more fittings but none like 90 g1/4 to compression and also in that chrome color. I can switch the fitting(other side of res) have the same fitting but that part of the loop was the most troublesome as it the only part w/o a quick disconnect. I also couldn't use my drain valve because all the g1/4 couplers i have don't work for some reason so i was forced to kill that idea. Quick disconnect does offset time/trouble when i want to drain so i guess it's not so bad.


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *springs113*
> 
> Messing around and fitted my rampage v edition 10 in the evolv tg. I also kept my led backplate on the board as well. I wanted to use my thicker rads but i opted to just go out and try something new. I picked up 2 EK rads...360 and 240 PE. I have to say i have bought rads from xspc, hardware labs, swiftech and koolance...EK rads are the worst in my opinion when it comes to debris in the rads. Hardware labs have been the best almost requiring no flush. With my setup i really wanted not to have to take the led backplate off the r5e10 and didn't really want to mess with the integrity of the case, but i knew for certain i wanted a phanteks case but don't want to shell out $700 for the elite, the evolv was my next favorite case but i thought it was too small for my components and then of course reading about the mobo clearance issue. I eventually decided to try with the mobo in the case and just measure(eyes) the clearance issue. I duct taped the area as needed and for the first time ever, i brought my dremel to my beloved chassy. When it was all said and done i guess-timated, i cut out a little over a quarter inch and the motherboard sits nice and flat in the case. I am not finish however as the tubing runs was just a temporary look to see my options. I've settled on this look, i also need fittings as i didn't purchase any but now since i did this loop i realize the fittings needed.
> What do you guys think?
> Should i change anything


I like it, but I can't but suggest you move the 240 rad down so you can fit the third fan on the top. Your res should still mount. Otherwise I think it looks terrific.


----------



## springs113

Thanks but doing so requires me to route tubibg through that hole on the psu plate which i didn't want to do. Also i'm going to be using the hdd slots for 3.5"drives. I had a leak earlier but i have since rectified the problem.


----------



## honj90

Hi guys.

I've been looking at the Evolv ATX tempered glass for a long time. It seems almost perfect to me, but it's a decently sized investment that I plan to keep for 5+ years, so I'm looking for someone to convince me that it's worth it. I have a few points that I wanted to raise in particular:


Memory clearance in the specs is indicated as 68mm for 120mm. Does that mean that no matter the thickness of the radiator, your memory can be up to ~68mm tall?
Sturdiness: All my cases so far have been steel+plastic, so I'm not afraid to move them lay them on the floor when working on them, even without a carpet. Could that be a problem? How careful do you have to be with this case? I'm especially worried about the second glass side-panel.
Can you use any of the HDD locations with a 360mm rad in the front?
I hate dust, so I'd like to try keeping a slight positive air pressure and see if that helps. I have an AIO with a 360mm rad for the CPU. What's the best way to achieve a slight positive pressure?
Does the top have a dust filter?
How easy are the side panels to remove and place back? Is it hard to do when the case isn't lying on its side?
So that's about it. I'm almost set on this case or the Luxe, but my main concerns are with the sturdiness, the ease of use of the side-panels and how to achieve a balanced/slightly airflow using the 360rad I already own. Any owners willing to convince me that this is the best case ever created feel free to chime in









PS. On a related note, are there any news for the Luxe Tempered Glass edition? I saw it in the Computex coverage, but I haven't been able to find anything about it since.


----------



## POLICE

Hi!

PHANTEKS Enthoo Primo SE [Black&White]
ASUS Z77 SABERTOOTH [BIOS:2104]
IntelCORE I7 3770 + Corsair Hydro Series™ H110 [PUSH-PULL]
CORSAIR Vengeance LP White 16GB 1600MHz DDR3
MSI GTX 960 Gaming OC 4GB
KINGSTON HyperX 3K 120GB SATA3 SSD
4TB WD PURPLE
XFX 850W Pro-Series - Modular [SEASONIC]
3x Corsair AF140 Quiet Edition 140mm + 7x Phanteks PH-F140SP 140mm


----------



## nycgtr

That case is screaming for more hardware.


----------



## smithydan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nycgtr*
> 
> That case is screaming for more hardware.


Way more!!!!!


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *honj90*
> 
> Hi guys.
> 
> I've been looking at the Evolv ATX tempered glass for a long time. It seems almost perfect to me, but it's a decently sized investment that I plan to keep for 5+ years, so I'm looking for someone to convince me that it's worth it. I have a few points that I wanted to raise in particular:
> 
> 
> Memory clearance in the specs is indicated as 68mm for 120mm. Does that mean that no matter the thickness of the radiator, your memory can be up to ~68mm tall?
> Sturdiness: All my cases so far have been steel+plastic, so I'm not afraid to move them lay them on the floor when working on them, even without a carpet. Could that be a problem? How careful do you have to be with this case? I'm especially worried about the second glass side-panel.
> Can you use any of the HDD locations with a 360mm rad in the front?
> I hate dust, so I'd like to try keeping a slight positive air pressure and see if that helps. I have an AIO with a 360mm rad for the CPU. What's the best way to achieve a slight positive pressure?
> Does the top have a dust filter?
> How easy are the side panels to remove and place back? Is it hard to do when the case isn't lying on its side?
> So that's about it. I'm almost set on this case or the Luxe, but my main concerns are with the sturdiness, the ease of use of the side-panels and how to achieve a balanced/slightly airflow using the 360rad I already own. Any owners willing to convince me that this is the best case ever created feel free to chime in
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> PS. On a related note, are there any news for the Luxe Tempered Glass edition? I saw it in the Computex coverage, but I haven't been able to find anything about it since.


1. You should have no memory clearance issues (outside of WC memory... why?) with a 120mm based radiator. Please note that some rads are wider than 120mm like Hardwarelabs. You should have no fitting issues with an EK 360mm AIO up top (if you want).
2. Take off all the panels when you assemble the case. Problem solved in like 30 seconds. The inside of the case is steel. It is quite sturdy. I would not lay it on the glass. That is asking for heartbreak.
3. Not out of the box. There is a single HDD mount in the middle of the PSU shroud, but you have to purchase a 3.5 HDD tray from Phanteks (IE its not included in the box). Or you can do what I did and make your own mount. Plenty of ways to do this. Or you could top mount.
4. I do not like dust either. The easiest way to achieve positive pressure is to simply have more intake than exhaust. 360 up front, 140 exhaust out back. This should also cut down on dust.
5. The top doesn't have a dust filter on every inlet (mesh on the sides). If you want, you can buy dust filters on Amazon. I wouldn't expect this to be an issue with positive pressure
6. The panels are easy to put on. I lightly secure the top screws, then the bottom, then tighten in an X pattern. You don't need to have the case laying down to do this as the glass rests on screw holes. With that said, it is always a good idea to keep your hand near the glass just in case.

The only "big" issues with the Evolv TG is it's airflow restriction at the top and the fact that everyone and their mums is buying one. Other than that I would call it "the perfect ATX case". Unless you need 5.25 bays or lots of HDD space, I would go with the Evolv.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nycgtr*
> 
> That case is screaming for more hardware.


And cooling and fans worthy of the case.....


----------



## madmeatballs

Would a 280mm rad fit in front of the Enthoo Pro M? Do I need to remove the ODD cage? or HDD?


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *madmeatballs*
> 
> Would a 280mm rad fit in front of the Enthoo Pro M? Do I need to remove the ODD cage? or HDD?


States in the manual that 280mm is supported in the front, you only have to remove the ODD cage for 360mm radiator.


----------



## Diarrhea

Here's my Evolv TG and my mod for ventilation. Let me know what you think:
Also, know where I got the cut out design?


----------



## hht92

Front TY-147A fans in Enthoo Pro.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Diarrhea*
> 
> Here's my Evolv TG and my mod for ventilation. Let me know what you think:
> Also, know where I got the cut out design?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Nicely done!









Looks like you left the edges of vent hole aluminum color? If your case is black, a black Sharpie will blend in the colors.









How did you cut the vents?

I'm suspectting you can hear more noise coming out the new vents?


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hht92*
> 
> Front TY-147A fans in Enthoo Pro.


Looks almost identical to my Luxe.








I ended up with 2x mounting screws in each fans in opposite corners.

I'm assuming the airflow and sound levels are very nice now?


----------



## Diarrhea

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Nicely done!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Looks like you left the edges of vent hole aluminum color? If your case is black, a black Sharpie will blend in the colors.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> How did you cut the vents?
> 
> I'm suspectting you can hear more noise coming out the new vents?


Thank you







I purposely left the edge silver because it stI'll sorta matches the black/white color scheme. If I decide to go with a different color, then I'll paint the edge.

I used my trusty safety scissor to do the cut out. Just kidding







I had a friend CNC'd it for me for free but a local shop would have done it for $50 total for both panels. So now I'm thinking of a design because I didn't want the traditional rectangle shape. I then looked at the front panel and drew a similar outline and it looked pretty good to me so I went with it.

I may cut out part of the front filter and add in a Demciflex one because I don't really like the look of those vertical/horizontal cross bars showing through.


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Diarrhea*
> 
> Thank you
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I purposely left the edge silver because it stI'll sorta matches the black/white color scheme. If I decide to go with a different color, then I'll paint the edge.
> 
> I used my trusty safety scissor to do the cut out. Just kidding
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I had a friend CNC'd it for me for free but a local shop would have done it for $50 total for both panels. So now I'm thinking of a design because I didn't want the traditional rectangle shape. I then looked at the front panel and drew a similar outline and it looked pretty good to me so I went with it.
> 
> I may cut out part of the front filter and add in a Demciflex one because I don't really like the look of those vertical/horizontal cross bars showing through.


I am guessing that your temps are much better?


----------



## hht92

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Looks almost identical to my Luxe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I ended up with 2x mounting screws in each fans in opposite corners.
> 
> I'm assuming the airflow and sound levels are very nice now?


Yes airflow and sound levels are much better now compared to stock 200mm .


----------



## Diarrhea

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rfarmer*
> 
> I am guessing that your temps are much better?


Much better. I use to just take off the front and top panel when gaming but now I can just leave them on without any adjustments like resting top panel on clips or extending the front panel to allow more airflow.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hht92*
> 
> Yes airflow and sound levels are much better now compared to stock 200mm .


LOL That's not saying much. To put it kindly the 200mm fan is marginal at best.

I found the TY-147A to be slightly quieter than PH-F140SP, but only 1, maybe 2 dB. The TY-147A have a marginally nicer sound profile to my ears, but not enough to change PH-F140SP fans out. I have TY-147A SQ in mine now. Would put TY-143A SQ in if they were not red / orange.







.. but even if black / white the added airflow / RPM / noise is not at all needed unless doing extreme OC's on CPU and GPU.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Diarrhea*
> 
> Thank you
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I purposely left the edge silver because it stI'll sorta matches the black/white color scheme. If I decide to go with a different color, then I'll paint the edge.
> 
> I used my trusty safety scissor to do the cut out. Just kidding
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I had a friend CNC'd it for me for free but a local shop would have done it for $50 total for both panels. So now I'm thinking of a design because I didn't want the traditional rectangle shape. I then looked at the front panel and drew a similar outline and it looked pretty good to me so I went with it.
> 
> I may cut out part of the front filter and add in a Demciflex one because I don't really like the look of those vertical/horizontal cross bars showing through.


FYI, if you decide to experiment, Sharpie ink wipes off with a little alcohol on a paper towel, not easy to experiment with different color Sharpies..








Black Sharpie sometimes has a slight blue-ish look.









I assumed it was CNC after enlarging images. Can see the tell-tail marks of rotary bit in cut surface.









I can't tell in your pics. Did the CNC chip the stock finish?

I would like to see some panels with line patterns to go with stock front side vent lines and top vent lines. I would do mine but I have no contacts in CNC industry .. except MNPCtech and they are on wrong side of pond.


----------



## Diarrhea

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> LOL That's not saying much. To put it kindly the 200mm fan is marginal at best.
> 
> I found the TY-147A to be slightly quieter than PH-F140SP, but only 1, maybe 2 dB. The TY-147A have a marginally nicer sound profile to my ears, but not enough to change PH-F140SP fans out. I have TY-147A SQ in mine now. Would put TY-143A SQ in if they were not red / orange.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .. but even if black / white the added airflow / RPM / noise is not at all needed unless doing extreme OC's on CPU and GPU.
> FYI, if you decide to experiment, Sharpie ink wipes off with a little alcohol on a paper towel, not easy to experiment with different color Sharpies..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Black Sharpie sometimes has a slight blue-ish look.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I assumed it was CNC after enlarging images. Can see the tell-tail marks of rotary bit in cut surface.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I can't tell in your pics. Did the CNC chip the stock finish?
> 
> I would like to see some panels with line patterns to go with stock front side vent lines and top vent lines. I would do mine but I have no contacts in CNC industry .. except MNPCtech and they are on wrong side of pond.


I might test out the Sharpie and see if it looks better but I was also thinking maybe plastidip because if I mess up the paint job, I can just peel it off.

The CNC actually did a good job. I didn't see any chipping of paint on the edges...but now that you mentioned it, I will take a closer look just to be sure. I will try to also take more close up pics. I read from an earlier post that we could buy replacement top and front panels for the Evolv (and probably for their other cases as well) which was why I went ahead to mod it without any concern of having to buy a whole new case just for the panels.

All in all, I think it turned out great.


----------



## arrow0309

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *hht92*
> 
> Front TY-147A fans in Enthoo Pro.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Looks almost identical to my Luxe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I ended up with 2x mounting screws in each fans in opposite corners.
> 
> I'm assuming the airflow and sound levels are very nice now?
Click to expand...

Better airflow and noise than two Phanteks stock fans?
I'm talking about my new Enthoo Mini XL


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Diarrhea*
> 
> Here's my Evolv TG and my mod for ventilation. Let me know what you think:
> Also, know where I got the cut out design?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ]


Awesome results. Now I gotta find a CNC shop that doesn't charge and arm and a leg for a small job.


----------



## hht92

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> LOL That's not saying much. To put it kindly the 200mm fan is marginal at best.
> 
> I found the TY-147A to be slightly quieter than PH-F140SP, but only 1, maybe 2 dB. The TY-147A have a marginally nicer sound profile to my ears, but not enough to change PH-F140SP fans out. I have TY-147A SQ in mine now. Would put TY-143A SQ in if they were not red / orange.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .. but even if black / white the added airflow / RPM / noise is not at all needed unless doing extreme OC's on CPU and GPU.


The PH-F140SP were more pricey here in Greece at that time (5 euros each fan) so i took your advice for the TY-147A. The TY-147A fans helped a lot the gpu temp, with the 200mm i was hitting 75+ Celsius and now with the 2 TY-147A i am below 69.









The PH-F200SP at full speed is very annoying.


----------



## Diarrhea

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> Awesome results. Now I gotta find a CNC shop that doesn't charge and arm and a leg for a small job.


Tell me about it...I must have called like 10 different CNC and even some laser cutting shop and you wouldn't believe some of the prices I heard. If I hadn't found out one my friend had a CNC machine, I would have went to the one that would have done it for $50. I can't justify myself spending as much as the case itself to get it cut. As a last resort, I was going to use a Dremel


----------



## TeslaHUN

If u want the most quiet PC ,forget water . pump noise + fan noise on radiator (min 3fan for 360 rad /cpu +gpu/ , but if u want OC u need more then 360 rad , so even more fan ).
Best solution is :
Big CPU cooler with slow fan like Thermalright Macho ABW
for VGA , never use stock cooling , replace it for : - http://www.raijintek.com/en/products_detail.php?ProductID=11
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *arrow0309*
> 
> Better airflow and noise than two Phanteks stock fans?
> I'm talking about my new Enthoo Mini XL


What do u think why I have 5x TY147A fan ?







ofc they are much better then stock Phanteks fans. Actually better than any fans i ever had.


----------



## eTheBlack

To the owners of Phanteks Enthoo Evolv ATX...

Do fans come with extension cable to PWM Fan Controller or they just have long cables? I will remove default fans and go only with 3x 120mm Noctua fans in front and Im wondering if I need to get extensions too


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eTheBlack*
> 
> To the owners of Phanteks Enthoo Evolv ATX...
> 
> Do fans come with extension cable to PWM Fan Controller or they just have long cables? I will remove default fans and go only with 3x 120mm Noctua fans in front and Im wondering if I need to get extensions too


As someone who tried 3 Noctua 120 in the front, I can tell you it is a mistake. Less airflow and more noise. 2x140 is the only way to go in this case that makes sense.


----------



## Valgaur

Seeing as we are on the topic of fans. I'm going to run a cryorig r1 ultimate on a 4770k for a while. But with what 780tishe in the case I'm wondering what fans would help move the heat out of the case. Thoughts and recommendations for front and top of the TG edition? Thanks!

I should mention I'm looking to make my purchase of the case tonight if possible. Finally, a new case!


----------



## eTheBlack

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> As someone who tried 3 Noctua 120 in the front, I can tell you it is a mistake. Less airflow and more noise. 2x140 is the only way to go in this case that makes sense.


I will have that in mind, but what about fan extensions?


----------



## Koeni

Is it possible to get decent temps with a FX-9590 (don't ask me why) with CF RX 480 (Asus Strix) and EK Predator 360 top mounted inside the Evolv ATX Glass?

Or would the Primo have better temps?


----------



## pez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Valgaur*
> 
> Seeing as we are on the topic of fans. I'm going to run a cryorig r1 ultimate on a 4770k for a while. But with what 780tishe in the case I'm wondering what fans would help move the heat out of the case. Thoughts and recommendations for front and top of the TG edition? Thanks!
> 
> I should mention I'm looking to make my purchase of the case tonight if possible. Finally, a new case!


Surprised that no one responded sooner. I had amazing results running 2x140 in front and one 140 in the rear. All of them were the F140SP from Phanteks. I believe the TG comes with two of these already.


----------



## Avant Garde

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Diarrhea*
> 
> Here's my Evolv TG and my mod for ventilation. Let me know what you think:
> Also, know where I got the cut out design?


THIS is insane! Well done!


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Valgaur*
> 
> Seeing as we are on the topic of fans. I'm going to run a cryorig r1 ultimate on a 4770k for a while. But with what 780tishe in the case I'm wondering what fans would help move the heat out of the case. Thoughts and recommendations for front and top of the TG edition? Thanks!
> 
> I should mention I'm looking to make my purchase of the case tonight if possible. Finally, a new case!


What @pez said









Use motherboard fan controls (CPU PWM signal to Phanteks PWM controlled fan hub) to control case fans so they cycle with components and supply the airflow components need at both idle and full load.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Koeni*
> 
> Is it possible to get decent temps with a FX-9590 (don't ask me why) with CF RX 480 (Asus Strix) and EK Predator 360 top mounted inside the Evolv ATX Glass?
> 
> Or would the Primo have better temps?


Evolv ATX with EK Predator 360


__
https://www.reddit.com/r/3puc4g/ek_predator_360_with_phanteks_evolv_atx/

Going from Evolv ATX to Primo is like going from a Smart Car to a stretched Bentley.
Entho.o Primo is 250 mm x 650 mm x 600 mm (WxHxD)
Evolv ATX TG is 235 mm x 495 mm x 510 mm (W x H x D)

Huge difference; 15 mm x 155 mm x 90 mm

If you want a little bigger case I would suggest something like Luxe , Pro or Pro M
Luxe. 235 mm x 560 mm x 550 mm (W x H x D)
Pro is 235 mm x 535 mm x 550 mm (W x H x D)
Pro M 235 mm x 480 mm x 500 mm (W x H x D)


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Koeni*
> 
> Is it possible to get decent temps with a FX-9590 (don't ask me why) with CF RX 480 (Asus Strix) and EK Predator 360 top mounted inside the Evolv ATX Glass?
> 
> Or would the Primo have better temps?


The Swiftech H320-X2 would have better temps, less noise, a better pump, ne easier to fill and bleed and look a lot better in the Evolv (or any other case, for that matter).

That kind of setup in a Primo looks like you are waiting for the rest of your rig to come.

A Luxe would have better temps than the Evolv by a little, and would look a lot more in tune with that type of system than a Primo.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Koeni*
> 
> Is it possible to get decent temps with a FX-9590 (don't ask me why) with CF RX 480 (Asus Strix) and EK Predator 360 top mounted inside the Evolv ATX Glass?
> 
> Or would the Primo have better temps?
> 
> 
> 
> The Swiftech H320-X2 would have better temps, less noise, a better pump, ne easier to fill and bleed and look a lot better in the Evolv (or any other case, for that matter).
> 
> That kind of setup in a Primo looks like you are waiting for the rest of your rig to come.
> 
> A Luxe would have better temps than the Evolv by a little, and would look a lot more in tune with that type of system than a Primo.
Click to expand...

 
http://www.overclock.net/t/1598395/swiftech-h320-x2-prestige-blue-dye-supposed-to-look-so-pale-light/0_20


----------



## hht92

Guys can anyone confirm if the EK-XLC PREDATOR 360 will fit at the top of the Enthoo pro ?

If you can post some images will be great too.

Thanks in advance.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1598395/swiftech-h320-x2-prestige-blue-dye-supposed-to-look-so-pale-light/0_20


It still amazes me that people don't cut their tubes to fit when they open the loop to add dye......


----------



## Valgaur

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pez*
> 
> Surprised that no one responded sooner. I had amazing results running 2x140 in front and one 140 in the rear. All of them were the F140SP from Phanteks. I believe the TG comes with two of these already.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> What @pez said
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Use motherboard fan controls (CPU PWM signal to Phanteks PWM controlled fan hub) to control case fans so they cycle with components and supply the airflow components need at both idle and full load.
> Evolv ATX with EK Predator 360
> 
> 
> __
> https://www.reddit.com/r/3puc4g/ek_predator_360_with_phanteks_evolv_atx/
> 
> Going from Evolv ATX to Primo is like going from a Smart Car to a stretched Bentley.
> Entho.o Primo is 250 mm x 650 mm x 600 mm (WxHxD)
> Evolv ATX TG is 235 mm x 495 mm x 510 mm (W x H x D)
> 
> Huge difference; 15 mm x 155 mm x 90 mm
> 
> If you want a little bigger case I would suggest something like Luxe , Pro or Pro M
> Luxe. 235 mm x 560 mm x 550 mm (W x H x D)
> Pro is 235 mm x 535 mm x 550 mm (W x H x D)
> Pro M 235 mm x 480 mm x 500 mm (W x H x D)


Thanks guys!


----------



## doyll

Was just talking to Bill at MNPCtech.
This is 1st prototype for replacement front bezel for the Phanteks EVOLV ATX case by Mnpctech. It's not pretty, cause it's a prototype. Final version will have shorter vents and available in opaque solid colors, Black, White or Grey. Colors will not be exact color match to factory paint. Pricing isn't finalized.



We will need to swap your EVOLV ATX factory mounting hardware and 3.5" bay cover to this custom replacement panel.

Production will be limited to small quantities, as demand is very small.

He is thinking to do ITX version if there is interest.

No custom one-off design orders will be accepted, they just don't have the time sorry.

Im, really liking it!

What do you think?


----------



## jassilamba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Was just talking to Bill at MNPCtech.
> This is 1st prototype for replacement front bezel for the Phanteks EVOLV ATX case by Mnpctech. It's not pretty, cause it's a prototype. Final version will have shorter vents and available in opaque solid colors, Black, White or Grey. Colors will not be exact color match to factory paint. Pricing isn't finalized.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We will need to swap your EVOLV ATX factory mounting hardware and 3.5" bay cover to this custom replacement panel.
> 
> Production will be limited to small quantities, as demand is very small.
> 
> He is thinking to do ITX version if there is interest.
> 
> No custom one-off design orders will be accepted, they just don't have the time sorry.
> 
> 
> 
> Im, really liking it!
> 
> What do you think?


Bill mentioned working on those, but I was hoping he would mill the actual factory panel and not have a replacement acrylic panel.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jassilamba*
> 
> Bill mentioned working on those, but I was hoping he would mill the actual factory panel and not have a replacement acrylic panel.


That was what I was originally thinking too, but this does look nice. Would be nice if Phanteks would send him 10x each of Evolv ATX and ITX front and top panels for him to machine venting into. If the paint didn't chip while machining a Sharpie would color the edges. Maybe even get Phanteks to sell them on their site. But that wouldn't help European customers.


----------



## .theMetal

Man I would love to have a vented front panel on my ITX.

I've been thinking about just having at it with a drill/saw/dremel, but I'm not quite sure on how I would do it, holes, slots, or just cut a chunk out and fill it with mesh or a grill.


----------



## samcheekin

hi im new here. wanted to ask for enthoo primo , does xspc ax480 rad able to fit at the bottom of the casing?


----------



## jassilamba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> That was what I was originally thinking too, but this does look nice. Would be nice if Phanteks would send him 10x each of Evolv ATX and ITX front and top panels for him to machine venting into. If the paint didn't chip while machining a Sharpie would color the edges. Maybe even get Phanteks to sell them on their site. But that wouldn't help European customers.


Knowing Phanteks, it would not be surprising to see an Evolv ATX high air flow edition this CES lol. They do listen a lot to their customers as evident by the clear and tempered glass panel offerings from them directly.

I'm working with Greg @ www.munkymods.com and we have been working on a front panel for my Evolv ITX build. Hopefully we will have something to share soon on that.


----------



## jassilamba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *samcheekin*
> 
> hi im new here. wanted to ask for enthoo primo , does xspc ax480 rad able to fit at the bottom of the casing?


Yes it will, I can actually confirm it once I get home as well as I have both the items you are asking about.


----------



## samcheekin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jassilamba*
> 
> Yes it will, I can actually confirm it once I get home as well as I have both the items you are asking about.


appreciate if u can post a picture shows tat the rad put at the bottom... so that i can order the rad online . i heard that the width of the rad does not fit with the primo at the bottom. i hope they're wrong . thanks in advance.


----------



## jassilamba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *samcheekin*
> 
> appreciate if u can post a picture shows tat the rad put at the bottom... so that i can order the rad online . i heard that the width of the rad does not fit with the primo at the bottom. i hope they're wrong . thanks in advance.


You got it..


----------



## honj90

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> 1. You should have no memory clearance issues (outside of WC memory... why?) with a 120mm based radiator. Please note that some rads are wider than 120mm like Hardwarelabs. You should have no fitting issues with an EK 360mm AIO up top (if you want).
> 2. Take off all the panels when you assemble the case. Problem solved in like 30 seconds. The inside of the case is steel. It is quite sturdy. I would not lay it on the glass. That is asking for heartbreak.
> 3. Not out of the box. There is a single HDD mount in the middle of the PSU shroud, but you have to purchase a 3.5 HDD tray from Phanteks (IE its not included in the box). Or you can do what I did and make your own mount. Plenty of ways to do this. Or you could top mount.
> 4. I do not like dust either. The easiest way to achieve positive pressure is to simply have more intake than exhaust. 360 up front, 140 exhaust out back. This should also cut down on dust.
> 5. The top doesn't have a dust filter on every inlet (mesh on the sides). If you want, you can buy dust filters on Amazon. I wouldn't expect this to be an issue with positive pressure
> 6. The panels are easy to put on. I lightly secure the top screws, then the bottom, then tighten in an X pattern. You don't need to have the case laying down to do this as the glass rests on screw holes. With that said, it is always a good idea to keep your hand near the glass just in case.
> 
> The only "big" issues with the Evolv TG is it's airflow restriction at the top and the fact that everyone and their mums is buying one. Other than that I would call it "the perfect ATX case". Unless you need 5.25 bays or lots of HDD space, I would go with the Evolv.


Thanks a lot, this is exactly the kind of information concerning the Evolv ATX TG I was looking for. I'm pretty much sold on it and I will order as soon as it becomes available for me on caseking. I only have a couple more questions to ask. Firstly,I found the HDD mount you mentioned on the Phanteks website and it does say it's compatible with the Evolv ATX but I couldn't figure out where it fits in the middle of the PSU shroud. I tried looking at all kinds of footage and photos, but didn't find anything. Unless it fits the 3 SSD drop and lock locations.

Secondly, I already have the fans and ideally I'd like two HDD locations, so it makes sense to me to have the radiator on top, unless the airflow is really bad. Is it? I know this is nitpicking and probably won't prevent me from picking up the case, but I don't know what configuration is best, since they all seem to have disadvantages:


Front intake, rad top intake, back exhaust: Isn't the positive pressure too strong?
Front intake, rad top exhaust, back exhaust. That's probably going to be negative, unless the radiator and the top panel block a lot of the airflow
Front intake, rad top exhaust, back intake. I'm leaning towards that, but it seems counterintuitive to have air from the top and the rear blowing in opposite directions. Does it make the most sense?
This is really no big deal probably, but I might have to wait upwards of 30 days until the black evolv ATX TG is in stock, so I'm just sitting here trying to plan every little detail of my build.


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Was just talking to Bill at MNPCtech.
> This is 1st prototype for replacement front bezel for the Phanteks EVOLV ATX case by Mnpctech. It's not pretty, cause it's a prototype. Final version will have shorter vents and available in opaque solid colors, Black, White or Grey. Colors will not be exact color match to factory paint. Pricing isn't finalized.
> 
> 
> 
> We will need to swap your EVOLV ATX factory mounting hardware and 3.5" bay cover to this custom replacement panel.
> 
> Production will be limited to small quantities, as demand is very small.
> 
> He is thinking to do ITX version if there is interest.
> 
> No custom one-off design orders will be accepted, they just don't have the time sorry.
> 
> Im, really liking it!
> 
> What do you think?


I have to be honest, I don't like it. Aesthetically it doesn't really match the Evolv (rounded shapes vs angled). Personally, I think any front airflow issues (since they aren't too bad) can simply be solved by increasing the space from the fans to the front panel. This could easily be achieved with a spacer plate with some new screw holes. If I were to have a new cover, I would want the cut outs to be similar to the shapes used throughout the Evolv. It is also REALLY thick. That looks like an inch. 1/2 to 1/4 would be better.

More to the point, the top is really what needs a solution, not the front. Bill has already said that he can't make a new top (too complex), but I really think he should consider having Evolv owners send in their top and he CNCs a cut out and then sends them back. Considering how stupid expensive big CNC shops are anything under $100 all said and done would be fine. $50 would be awesome. This could also be done to the front. Just my 2 cents.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *honj90*
> 
> Thanks a lot, this is exactly the kind of information concerning the Evolv ATX TG I was looking for. I'm pretty much sold on it and I will order as soon as it becomes available for me on caseking. I only have a couple more questions to ask. Firstly,I found the HDD mount you mentioned on the Phanteks website and it does say it's compatible with the Evolv ATX but I couldn't figure out where it fits in the middle of the PSU shroud. I tried looking at all kinds of footage and photos, but didn't find anything. Unless it fits the 3 SSD drop and lock locations.
> 
> Secondly, I already have the fans and ideally I'd like two HDD locations, so it makes sense to me to have the radiator on top, unless the airflow is really bad. Is it? I know this is nitpicking and probably won't prevent me from picking up the case, but I don't know what configuration is best, since they all seem to have disadvantages:
> 
> 
> Front intake, rad top intake, back exhaust: Isn't the positive pressure too strong?
> Front intake, rad top exhaust, back exhaust. That's probably going to be negative, unless the radiator and the top panel block a lot of the airflow
> Front intake, rad top exhaust, back intake. I'm leaning towards that, but it seems counterintuitive to have air from the top and the rear blowing in opposite directions. Does it make the most sense?
> This is really no big deal probably, but I might have to wait upwards of 30 days until the black evolv ATX TG is in stock, so I'm just sitting here trying to plan every little detail of my build.


Since you want 2 HDD locations, then top mount the rad and use the bottom HDD trays. For the fan orientation, I would go front:2x140IN, top rad: 3x120OUT/push, rear: 1x140IN. This is the same setup I have and it has mild positive pressure. The front and back aren't in conflict because the top is pulling everything up. You can get more pressure by offsetting your fan speeds as well (intake>exhaust).


----------



## lazyalam

How do y'all mount tube reservoirs on the enthoo evolv. Trying to do a straight mount on the hard drive Bay section but would much prefer to avoid drilling holes in my $250 cdn case.


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lazyalam*
> 
> How do y'all mount tube reservoirs on the enthoo evolv. Trying to do a straight mount on the hard drive Bay section but would much prefer to avoid drilling holes in my $250 cdn case.


Rad/fan mount is the best. IMO the predefined mounting positions aren't ideal.


----------



## KeY0Ke

Just build my PC with Phantek Evolv ATX TG










Self DIY to Plastidip my Gentle Typhoon AP15 Matte Black










Specs:
Motherboard: MSI Z170A Gaming Pro Carbon
Processor: Intel I5 6600K @ 4.2GHz
Power Supply Unit: Superflower Leadex Gold 550W
Cooler: ID Cooling FrostFlow 240mm + 2 x AP15 Gentle Typhoon
RAM: Avexir DDR4 2400MHz 2 x 8GB White LED
Graphic Card: MSI GTX 1070 Gaming 8GB
SSD: Samsung OEM PM961 512GB M.2
Storage: Western Digital Black 1TB
Casing: Phantek Evolv ATX TG


----------



## kriz225

Another one joins the fold









Just built my first water cooled machine into an Evolv ATX TG. Overall, I found that the quality of the case was a little lacking, but it looks amazing when it's all put together.



Please head over to my build thread for pictures and a mini-review:

http://www.overclock.net/t/1610831/1st-timer-build-log-phanteks-evolv-atx


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kriz225*
> 
> Another one joins the fold
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just built my first water cooled machine into an Evolv ATX TG. Overall, *I found that the quality of the case was a little lacking*, but it looks amazing when it's all put together.
> 
> 
> 
> Please head over to my build thread for pictures and a mini-review:
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1610831/1st-timer-build-log-phanteks-evolv-atx


Can you share why? Most builders have said exactly the opposite about the case. I have used just about every case around, and find the Evolv ATX to be one of the best in terms of build quality, construction, materials and design.


----------



## redshoulder

Anyone use plastic dip on the interiors of these cases? Have a white evolv matx and thinking of painting the interiors white to match the exterior.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lazyalam*
> 
> How do y'all mount tube reservoirs on the enthoo evolv. Trying to do a straight mount on the hard drive Bay section but would much prefer to avoid drilling holes in my $250 cdn case.


Hot glue gun?








http://www.instructables.com/id/Easily-Remove-Dried-Hot-Glue-aka-Hot-Melt/

Or Velcro tape with glue backing that dissolves with alcohol. Test to be sure it works first.

Any glue that dissolves with alcohol is save to use becasue it can be cleaned off without damaging the case paint finish.


----------



## kriz225

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Can you share why? Most builders have said exactly the opposite about the case. I have used just about every case around, and find the Evolv ATX to be one of the best in terms of build quality, construction, materials and design.


Yeah, I saw a lot of blogs, posts and reviews calling out quality as a major point. I was pretty surprised when I started taking the case panels off.

I think the reason for the discrepancy is that the aluminum panels are just awesome. When the case is put together, it looks and feels absolutely top notch.

My complaints about quality stem from a few things you notice when you take those panels off. For one, the frame has a pretty significant amount of flex. The front LED is held together with a zip tie. The top board wiring, for the I/O and power button, is routed through a hole that must've been great for the normal edition, but on the TG, with the glass side panels, makes the wiring really obvious and ugly. There's another hole just above it, but Phanteks seems to have dropped the glass panels into the case without really taking a good look at revising anything else.

I had to remove one of the plastic locks that hold the front panel in place and use light force to get the cabling through the hole I mention. It works and looks much better (can barely see those cables), but taking that clip out and putting it back in was a major pain.

Also, the serial number was in a big, ugly white sticker on the back, right above an equally big white sticker saying "made in China." I appreciate putting the serial number in an easy to find place, but they could've done something more subtle. Not that I expect to have a warranty issue with a case, but if I did, I'm sure I'd be SOL now that I've removed the only identification on it.

Don't get me wrong, I love the case. It's by far the best looking case I've ever owned, and it was nice to work in. But, seriously, a zip tie??


----------



## jassilamba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *redshoulder*
> 
> Anyone use plastic dip on the interiors of these cases? Have a white evolv matx and thinking of painting the interiors white to match the exterior.


Should be no problem at all. I plasti dipped the exterior of my Evolv ATX first black, and then Chameleon Blue Green -



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kriz225*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah, I saw a lot of blogs, posts and reviews calling out quality as a major point. I was pretty surprised when I started taking the case panels off.
> 
> I think the reason for the discrepancy is that the aluminum panels are just awesome. When the case is put together, it looks and feels absolutely top notch.
> 
> 
> My complaints about quality stem from a few things you notice when you take those panels off. For one, the frame has a pretty significant amount of flex. The front LED is held together with a zip tie. The top board wiring, for the I/O and power button, is routed through a hole that must've been great for the normal edition, but on the TG, with the glass side panels, makes the wiring really obvious and ugly. There's another hole just above it, but Phanteks seems to have dropped the glass panels into the case without really taking a good look at revising anything else.
> 
> I had to remove one of the plastic locks that hold the front panel in place and use light force to get the cabling through the hole I mention. It works and looks much better (can barely see those cables), but taking that clip out and putting it back in was a major pain.
> 
> Also, the serial number was in a big, ugly white sticker on the back, right above an equally big white sticker saying "made in China." I appreciate putting the serial number in an easy to find place, but they could've done something more subtle. Not that I expect to have a warranty issue with a case, but if I did, I'm sure I'd be SOL now that I've removed the only identification on it.
> 
> Don't get me wrong, I love the case. It's by far the best looking case I've ever owned, and it was nice to work in. But, seriously, a zip tie??


There is room for improvement on the case and I agree. As a reviewer I will say that sometimes we get tunnel vision, and those who know me, also know that I'm a "bit" partial to Phanteks cases. With that said, I think what you bring up are great points about the case that for me non issues and as reviewers we should bring those things up more often.

On the flex, I will say that the Evolv has a lot less flex when compared to some other more expensive cases out there. My biggest disappointment was the lack of a swing open side panels on the TG edition, but I understand why they went with the mount they did (easy to implement, and helps keep the cost at a decent level (must have Vs nice to have).

Anyways, you have a great looking build. Is that the regular Hero or the Hero Alpha board?


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kriz225*
> 
> Yeah, I saw a lot of blogs, posts and reviews calling out quality as a major point. I was pretty surprised when I started taking the case panels off.
> 
> I think the reason for the discrepancy is that the aluminum panels are just awesome. When the case is put together, it looks and feels absolutely top notch.
> 
> My complaints about quality stem from a few things you notice when you take those panels off. For one, the frame has a pretty significant amount of flex. The front LED is held together with a zip tie. The top board wiring, for the I/O and power button, is routed through a hole that must've been great for the normal edition, but on the TG, with the glass side panels, makes the wiring really obvious and ugly. There's another hole just above it, but Phanteks seems to have dropped the glass panels into the case without really taking a good look at revising anything else.
> 
> I had to remove one of the plastic locks that hold the front panel in place and use light force to get the cabling through the hole I mention. It works and looks much better (can barely see those cables), but taking that clip out and putting it back in was a major pain.
> 
> Also, the serial number was in a big, ugly white sticker on the back, right above an equally big white sticker saying "made in China." I appreciate putting the serial number in an easy to find place, but they could've done something more subtle. Not that I expect to have a warranty issue with a case, but if I did, I'm sure I'd be SOL now that I've removed the only identification on it.
> 
> Don't get me wrong, I love the case. It's by far the best looking case I've ever owned, and it was nice to work in. But, seriously, a zip tie??


I see where you are coming from. The zip tie was done to make the LED change as easy as possible for the user, but I agree that there should have been a better solution.

I don't agree with you about the chassis quality. It is as solid as any NZXT,/Corsair/etc, probably more so, and uses a minimum of plastic. The design is similar to that of a car uni-body, where the panels are part of the support structure. It actually makes perfect sense in keeping weight down without sacrificing rigidity. It's not as solid as a Silverstone, but it is also a lot more user friendly and has far more component flexibility. There is always going to be give and take, and Phanteks chose wisely in this regard.


----------



## Valgaur

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> I see where you are coming from. The zip tie was done to make the LED change as easy as possible for the user, but I agree that there should have been a better solution.
> 
> I don't agree with you about the chassis quality. It is as solid as any NZXT,/Corsair/etc, probably more so, and uses a minimum of plastic. The design is similar to that of a car uni-body, where the panels are part of the support structure. It actually makes perfect sense in keeping weight down without sacrificing rigidity. It's not as solid as a Silverstone, but it is also a lot more user friendly and has far more component flexibility. There is always going to be give and take, and Phanteks chose wisely in this regard.


Mmmmmm uni bodies.... Love me some Mopar B-bodies


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kriz225*
> 
> Yeah, I saw a lot of blogs, posts and reviews calling out quality as a major point. I was pretty surprised when I started taking the case panels off.
> 
> I think the reason for the discrepancy is that the aluminum panels are just awesome. When the case is put together, it looks and feels absolutely top notch.
> 
> My complaints about quality stem from a few things you notice when you take those panels off. For one, the frame has a pretty significant amount of flex. The front LED is held together with a zip tie. The top board wiring, for the I/O and power button, is routed through a hole that must've been great for the normal edition, but on the TG, with the glass side panels, makes the wiring really obvious and ugly. There's another hole just above it, but Phanteks seems to have dropped the glass panels into the case without really taking a good look at revising anything else.
> 
> I had to remove one of the plastic locks that hold the front panel in place and use light force to get the cabling through the hole I mention. It works and looks much better (can barely see those cables), but taking that clip out and putting it back in was a major pain.
> 
> Also, the serial number was in a big, ugly white sticker on the back, right above an equally big white sticker saying "made in China." I appreciate putting the serial number in an easy to find place, but they could've done something more subtle. Not that I expect to have a warranty issue with a case, but if I did, I'm sure I'd be SOL now that I've removed the only identification on it.
> 
> Don't get me wrong, I love the case. It's by far the best looking case I've ever owned, and it was nice to work in. But, seriously, a zip tie??


I understand your complaints, but like jassilamba and ciarlatano said Panteks quality is better than most, especially for the price. I prefer Phanteks cases to others I have used, including Nanoxia, Corsair Thermaltake, etc. .. even Fractal Design and Lian Lii are not any better. Phanteks case features and quality are definitely better than others not just in same price range but also better than many in higher price ranges as well.

I go through a lot of csses . like 6 or more a year. To date I have not found one I couldn't find many things to complain about. Like jassilamba if don't point out all of the problems I notice and only the more significant ones .. simple bessuse I can find faults with almost anything put in front of me .. from not designing symmetrical side panel mounting so panels can be used on either side to not designing. front tip-to-open socket access so it can be turned over for easy access when setting under desk or on desk.

It's just too easy to find faults in something and blame the designers and fabricators for not doing a good job. I've worked in R&D and regardless of how well designed and constructed something is, there are always thing that could be better.


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kriz225*
> 
> Yeah, I saw a lot of blogs, posts and reviews calling out quality as a major point. I was pretty surprised when I started taking the case panels off.
> 
> I think the reason for the discrepancy is that the aluminum panels are just awesome. When the case is put together, it looks and feels absolutely top notch.
> 
> My complaints about quality stem from a few things you notice when you take those panels off. For one, the frame has a pretty significant amount of flex. The front LED is held together with a zip tie. The top board wiring, for the I/O and power button, is routed through a hole that must've been great for the normal edition, but on the TG, with the glass side panels, makes the wiring really obvious and ugly. There's another hole just above it, but Phanteks seems to have dropped the glass panels into the case without really taking a good look at revising anything else.
> 
> I had to remove one of the plastic locks that hold the front panel in place and use light force to get the cabling through the hole I mention. It works and looks much better (can barely see those cables), but taking that clip out and putting it back in was a major pain.
> 
> Also, the serial number was in a big, ugly white sticker on the back, right above an equally big white sticker saying "made in China." I appreciate putting the serial number in an easy to find place, but they could've done something more subtle. Not that I expect to have a warranty issue with a case, but if I did, I'm sure I'd be SOL now that I've removed the only identification on it.
> 
> Don't get me wrong, I love the case. It's by far the best looking case I've ever owned, and it was nice to work in. But, seriously, a zip tie??


Overall, I agree... but I don't see anyone else at the >$200 price bracket doing any better. IMO, wiring issues can be solved by good cable management. The serial number could have been put on the bottom.

The only substantive issue I have come across is my glass panels do not perfectly align with the case and as a result a small amount of dust gets through and adheres to the glass (over time). Easily fixed with some electrical tape, but still kinda annoying. It is possible this was cause due to chassis flex, but I can't say for certain.

One positive point I don't see thrown around on the Evolv is that it does a great job of not transmitting vibrations. HDDs, pumps, etc. everything is padded. The case doesn't have any "loose bits" either that can sometimes be a PIA to fix. My R4 didn't have this and it drove me nuts (EDIT: Clarification, it had dampening for HDDs but the cage itself rattled b/c the drives were not snug).


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Overall, I agree... but I don't see anyone else at the >$200 price bracket doing any better. IMO, wiring issues can be solved by good cable management. The serial number could have been put on the bottom.
> 
> The only substantive issue I have come across is my glass panels do not perfectly align with the case and as a result a small amount of dust gets through and adheres to the glass (over time). Easily fixed with some electrical tape, but still kinda annoying. It is possible this was cause due to chassis flex, but I can't say for certain.
> 
> 
> 
> One positive point I don't see thrown around on the Evolv is that it does a great job of not transmitting vibrations. HDDs, pumps, etc. everything is padded. The case doesn't have any "loose bits" either that can sometimes be a PIA to fix. My R4 had this and it drove me nuts.


Good point! the thumbscrew mounting panel screws keep vibration down too. R5 is another one of the better cases in it's price range too.

We need to keep in mind that $1-2 dollars more in in design and manufacturing is like $20 more to end user.


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Good point! the thumbscrew mounting panel screws keep vibration down too. R5 is another one of the better cases in it's price range too.
> 
> We need to keep in mind that $1-2 dollars more in in design and manufacturing is like $20 more to end user.


For me its that screw organizer box. I was like... "Oh, that's nice. And to think I put up with baggies." Even the less consequential things like the SSD trays having padded mounts. They didn't _have_ to do that... but they did.


----------



## kriz225

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jassilamba*
> 
> There is room for improvement on the case and I agree. As a reviewer I will say that sometimes we get tunnel vision, and those who know me, also know that I'm a "bit" partial to Phanteks cases. With that said, I think what you bring up are great points about the case that for me non issues and as reviewers we should bring those things up more often.
> 
> On the flex, I will say that the Evolv has a lot less flex when compared to some other more expensive cases out there. My biggest disappointment was the lack of a swing open side panels on the TG edition, but I understand why they went with the mount they did (easy to implement, and helps keep the cost at a decent level (must have Vs nice to have).
> 
> Anyways, you have a great looking build. Is that the regular Hero or the Hero Alpha board?


I agree. Perspective is important. For instance, I've never had swing open side panels. So, while they certainly sound nice, it's not something I miss.

I don't want anyone getting the wrong impression. Again, I love the case. Little things like just how good the power button feels when I turn the machine on will continue to make me feel good about it long after I've forgotten the invisible zip tie. I was just trying to point out a few things that I did not see anywhere when I did my research on the case. They're not deal breakers for me, but they were surprises. I'd rather people who might find them to be deal breakers don't find out when they pull the thing out of the box.

It's the regular Hero. Last time I paid for a top of the line motherboard from Asus I regretted it. It was a great board, but I never used half of it. I was originally going for the Ranger, but Newegg had no stock when I was ready to pull the trigger.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> I see where you are coming from. The zip tie was done to make the LED change as easy as possible for the user, but I agree that there should have been a better solution.
> 
> I don't agree with you about the chassis quality. It is as solid as any NZXT,/Corsair/etc, probably more so, and uses a minimum of plastic. The design is similar to that of a car uni-body, where the panels are part of the support structure. It actually makes perfect sense in keeping weight down without sacrificing rigidity. It's not as solid as a Silverstone, but it is also a lot more user friendly and has far more component flexibility. There is always going to be give and take, and Phanteks chose wisely in this regard.


To each their own, I suppose. I'm coming from a CoolerMaster HAFX. The thing is chuck full of plastic, so comparing it to this is hardly apples to apples. I'd never argue that, when fully put together, the Evolv ATX feels less quality than the HAFX. I would argue that the HAFX felt more solid. Not a huge deal, really. Just surprised me, is all. Not much of a price difference between what I paid for the Phanteks now and what I paid for the HAFX when I got it. Of course, the Phanteks is nearly all metal, and has glass panels. Apples and oranges









I don't think your unibody analogy really works here. None of the panels on the case are load-bearing, and none of them are welded or otherwise permanently attached. That said, when fully put together the case does feel solid.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> I understand your complaints, but like jassilamba and ciarlatano said Panteks quality is better than most, especially for the price. I prefer Phanteks cases to others I have used, including Nanoxia, Corsair Thermaltake, etc. .. even Fractal Design and Lian Lii are not any better. Phanteks case features and quality are definitely better than others not just in same price range but also better than many in higher price ranges as well.
> 
> I go through a lot of csses . like 6 or more a year. To date I have not found one I couldn't find many things to complain about. Like jassilamba if don't point out all of the problems I notice and only the more significant ones .. simple bessuse I can find faults with almost anything put in front of me .. from not designing symmetrical side panel mounting so panels can be used on either side to not designing. front tip-to-open socket access so it can be turned over for easy access when setting under desk or on desk.
> 
> It's just too easy to find faults in something and blame the designers and fabricators for not doing a good job. I've worked in R&D and regardless of how well designed and constructed something is, there are always thing that could be better.


Just because everything has faults doesn't mean we should simply ignore them. I like the case. I'd honestly say it's the best case I've ever used, though that's not out of many. I've worked on 4 or 5 cases ever. There were just a few things I disliked about it, and I felt like all the positives about it were already out there for everyone to see.

I also didn't mention the "flow" issue that's been discussed many times on this thread before. Because, again, it's already been covered. I used some sound dampening material as others have and it seems to be working great.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Good point! the thumbscrew mounting panel screws keep vibration down too. R5 is another one of the better cases in it's price range too.
> 
> We need to keep in mind that $1-2 dollars more in in design and manufacturing is like $20 more to end user.


I'd say this is the best value for money case I've ever bought. Easy. That said, running the cabling through the upper hole and moving the serial number label to a new location would've cost Phanteks $0.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> For me its that screw organizer box. I was like... "Oh, that's nice. And to think I put up with baggies." Even the less consequential things like the SSD trays having padded mounts. They didn't _have_ to do that... but they did.


Not gonna lie, I smiled ear-to-ear when I saw the screw box. That was a really, really nice touch. Also putting the board with the power button and LED on the case, and not on the top panel, is a very thoughtful detail.

Case definitely has a lot going for it. For sure!


----------



## jassilamba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *samcheekin*
> 
> hi im new here. wanted to ask for enthoo primo , does xspc ax480 rad able to fit at the bottom of the casing?


Here is what you were looking for:



Here is how much space is left from the front panel. I removed my panel a long time ago, and have lost it during a move so no way of determining where things will be (I do believe the 2 holes in the following pic are the mounting locations for drive bay panel)



Here are some pics from the bottom showing how the radiator fan mount holes line up with the case, and as you can see, you might have to file a little to make things work.
Top -

Bottom -


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kriz225*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> I agree. Perspective is important. For instance, I've never had swing open side panels. So, while they certainly sound nice, it's not something I miss.
> 
> I don't want anyone getting the wrong impression. Again, I love the case. Little things like just how good the power button feels when I turn the machine on will continue to make me feel good about it long after I've forgotten the invisible zip tie. I was just trying to point out a few things that I did not see anywhere when I did my research on the case. They're not deal breakers for me, but they were surprises. I'd rather people who might find them to be deal breakers don't find out when they pull the thing out of the box.
> 
> It's the regular Hero. Last time I paid for a top of the line motherboard from Asus I regretted it. It was a great board, but I never used half of it. I was originally going for the Ranger, but Newegg had no stock when I was ready to pull the trigger.
> To each their own, I suppose. I'm coming from a CoolerMaster HAFX. The thing is chuck full of plastic, so comparing it to this is hardly apples to apples. I'd never argue that, when fully put together, the Evolv ATX feels less quality than the HAFX. I would argue that the HAFX felt more solid. Not a huge deal, really. Just surprised me, is all. Not much of a price difference between what I paid for the Phanteks now and what I paid for the HAFX when I got it. Of course, the Phanteks is nearly all metal, and has glass panels. Apples and oranges
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't think your unibody analogy really works here. None of the panels on the case are load-bearing, and none of them are welded or otherwise permanently attached. That said, when fully put together the case does feel solid.
> Just because everything has faults doesn't mean we should simply ignore them. I like the case. I'd honestly say it's the best case I've ever used, though that's not out of many. I've worked on 4 or 5 cases ever. There were just a few things I disliked about it, and I felt like all the positives about it were already out there for everyone to see.
> 
> I also didn't mention the "flow" issue that's been discussed many times on this thread before. Because, again, it's already been covered. I used some sound dampening material as others have and it seems to be working great.
> I'd say this is the best value for money case I've ever bought. Easy.
> 
> 
> That said, running the cabling through the upper hole and moving the serial number label to a new location would've cost Phanteks $0.
> Not gonna lie, I smiled ear-to-ear when I saw the screw box. That was a really, really nice touch. Also putting the board with the power button and LED on the case, and not on the top panel, is a very thoughtful detail.
> 
> Case definitely has a lot going for it. For sure!


Time is money, and while it may not take much more time to do the cable and serial number sticker changes, it does take some. It also means changing the assembly line procedure .. and changes often create their own problems in assembly lines. Running cables through holes takes more time than using a zip-tie .. and may require moving case to do it .. more movement means more chances of damage. Case is setting on assembly line ready for boxing and serial number label is put on case and it's box. To put labels on back of case and box is quick. Putting label on bottom means moving case .. whichi takes more time and also increases the chance of possible case damage. Bottom line is the more efficient the assembly line is the lower the cost of assembly .. and lower cost to end user.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jassilamba*
> 
> Here is what you were looking for:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is how much space is left from the front panel. I removed my panel a long time ago, and have lost it during a move so no way of determining where things will be (I do believe the 2 holes in the following pic are the mounting locations for drive bay panel)
> 
> 
> 
> Here are some pics from the bottom showing how the radiator fan mount holes line up with the case, and as you can see, you might have to file a little to make things work.
> Top -
> 
> Bottom -


Good description.









@samcheekin I suggest raising the case to improve airflow to bottom. The stock bottom airflow design is grossly inadequate.
http://www.overclock.net/t/1418637/official-case-phanteks-case-club-for-lovers-owners/14760_20#post_25457818


----------



## pez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> I understand your complaints, but like jassilamba and ciarlatano said Panteks quality is better than most, especially for the price. I prefer Phanteks cases to others I have used, including Nanoxia, Corsair Thermaltake, etc. .. even Fractal Design and Lian Lii are not any better. Phanteks case features and quality are definitely better than others not just in same price range but also better than many in higher price ranges as well.
> 
> I go through a lot of csses . like 6 or more a year. To date I have not found one I couldn't find many things to complain about. Like jassilamba if don't point out all of the problems I notice and only the more significant ones .. simple bessuse I can find faults with almost anything put in front of me .. from not designing symmetrical side panel mounting so panels can be used on either side to not designing. front tip-to-open socket access so it can be turned over for easy access when setting under desk or on desk.
> 
> It's just too easy to find faults in something and blame the designers and fabricators for not doing a good job. I've worked in R&D and regardless of how well designed and constructed something is, there are always thing that could be better.


I can agree with the Lian Li thing. The Ncase is solidly made (I literally am impressed how rigid and solid it is for its' size) but the exterior panels I felt could have been cut a bit better and QC could have been a tad better. I have the same complaint with my Evolv ITX, though. However, I paid around 1/3 for my Evolv ITX. I can see people being more stringent or critical of the TG Evolv as it is a ~$200 case.


----------



## KaptainK

I'm building a custom loop in an Evolv mATX.
What do you think about mounting top rad as intake with push fan.
Will not it be too restrictive?


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaptainK*
> 
> I'm building a custom loop in an Evolv mATX.
> What do you think about mounting top rad as intake with push fan.
> Will not it be too restrictive?


Yes, it will be restrictive. I know one user here does that and is happy with it, but it has otherwise been a failed experiment. The case design lends itself to the top rad being used as exhaust.


----------



## KaptainK

thanks !
I try to determine what will be the best for my loop in my lovely case.
I started a thread about it here : http://www.overclock.net/t/1612994/help-which-way-to-mount-my-rad#post_25564918
And people tell me that it's better to go all rad as intake.


----------



## honj90

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> Since you want 2 HDD locations, then top mount the rad and use the bottom HDD trays. For the fan orientation, I would go front:2x140IN, top rad: 3x120OUT/push, rear: 1x140IN. This is the same setup I have and it has mild positive pressure. The front and back aren't in conflict because the top is pulling everything up. You can get more pressure by offsetting your fan speeds as well (intake>exhaust).


Thanks a lot for your help, I'm sold. I'll get it as soon as I find it in stock.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaptainK*
> 
> thanks !
> I try to determine what will be the best for my loop in my lovely case.
> I started a thread about it here : http://www.overclock.net/t/1612994/help-which-way-to-mount-my-rad#post_25564918
> And people tell me that it's better to go all rad as intake.


When going full loop on both CPU and GPU it is usually not possible to have all radiators as intakes. The key is to have as much exhaust vent / airflow area as intake. If you do not, the lower exhaust flow rate limits the intake flow.
Reason is simple; what comes in must go out / what comes out must first go in.
If we have a 6" intake and a 3" exhaust, the 3" exhaust limits how much air flows through.
If we have a 3" intake and a 6" exhaust, the 3" intake limits how much air flows through.


----------



## KaptainK

So with a front 240 rad and a top 240 rad, front as intake, top as exhaust, fan at the same speed (phanteks hub) what to do with the rear fan ? Mount it as intake to supply fresh air to the top and also have positive pressure ? Or just drop it to have intake = exhaust ?


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaptainK*
> 
> So with a front 240 rad and a top 240 rad, front as intake, top as exhaust, fan at the same speed (phanteks hub) what to do with the rear fan ? Mount it as intake to supply fresh air to the top and also have positive pressure ? Or just drop it to have intake = exhaust ?


Try it both ways. I would think intake with filter would be best. 5th post in "Ways to Better Cooling" link in my sig. about case airflow. I have Evolv ATX on air so quite different, but I think the Evolv mATX has similar problem with top radiator needing all unused holes in mounting plate blocked to keep airflow from circling around and back down into case rather than out the vents.
If the top radiator plate looks like the one in lower section of this image, do as instructed
http://www.overclock.net/t/1418637/official-case-phanteks-case-club-for-lovers-owners/13700_20#post_25268315


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaptainK*
> 
> thanks !
> I try to determine what will be the best for my loop in my lovely case.
> I started a thread about it here : http://www.overclock.net/t/1612994/help-which-way-to-mount-my-rad#post_25564918
> And people tell me that it's better to go all rad as intake.


That's because none of those people have ever worked with an Evolv ATX. They are completely generalizing.


----------



## redshoulder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Try it both ways. I would think intake with filter would be best. 5th post in "Ways to Better Cooling" link in my sig. about case airflow. I have Evolv ATX on air so quite different, but I think the Evolv mATX has similar problem with top radiator needing all unused holes in mounting plate blocked to keep airflow from circling around and back down into case rather than out the vents.
> If the top radiator plate looks like the one in lower section of this image, do as instructed
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1418637/official-case-phanteks-case-club-for-lovers-owners/13700_20#post_25268315


No removable bracket but general design is same


----------



## kriz225

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Time is money, and while it may not take much more time to do the cable and serial number sticker changes, it does take some. It also means changing the assembly line procedure .. and changes often create their own problems in assembly lines. Running cables through holes takes more time than using a zip-tie .. and may require moving case to do it .. more movement means more chances of damage. Case is setting on assembly line ready for boxing and serial number label is put on case and it's box. To put labels on back of case and box is quick. Putting label on bottom means moving case .. whichi takes more time and also increases the chance of possible case damage. Bottom line is the more efficient the assembly line is the lower the cost of assembly .. and lower cost to end user.


I'll say one last thing, and leave this discussion at that. It's starting to feel like this is turning into an argument, which was never my intent.

I'm super happy with this case. It was great to work with. Roomier than my much bigger HAF X, thanks to the lack of a drive cage. Very thoughtfully designed to be water cooling friendly, which was a huge plus for me. The aluminum panels are fantastic. Coupled with the glass... this is case looks so good I just want to lick it









I was just surprised by a couple of things that, to me - as a somewhat average system builder who only builds a new PC when he needs one and hasn't gone through a thousand cases - were a bit disappointing considering what I paid for the case.

I'd never even heard of Phanteks until I went to build this rig. I read nothing but positive stuff, and was really taken back by the classy, restrained look of the P400S. For the price, that case seemed like a winner. Had I gone with that one, and had these same complaints, I would've sucked it up. That case costs half of what the Evolv ATX TG costs. Alas, the P400S wasn't going to be roomy enough for what I wound up doing, and the Evolv ATX TG looked even better.

For $200, they could've put the sticker on the top of the frame, under the top cover. Easy to get to, not visible under normal conditions. Problem solved. If you're going to sit there and tell me that not doing that somehow would've saved me money, then I think you're just making excuses.

I'm not trying to talk anyone down from getting this case. Hell, I can't recommend it enough. I just wanted to point out a few things that surprised me, which I hadn't read or heard about anywhere. That's all.


----------



## BinaryBummer

I was looking at these yesterday and a alternative case, not so sure yet.

It's lay out is pretty good leaning towards what I am looking for but a few thing lack or leave concerns. I do want full window/s if possible. I have 5 drives at the moment, so my mobo is filled so I need to make sure I can get those in or get brackets to add them. I do prefer a top venting that i can access to clean. Other then that I think this brand could work for me.

Price wise these cases are low cost compare to others higher price units.


----------



## jassilamba

Thought I would share what I have been working on lately..... This is just the very beginning, and there is a lot more work to come. Will create a build log once the build is done..



And if anyone wants to be creative, give a try to Plasti Dip enhancer finishes - Blue Green (still wet in the pic, bad idea coating it outside in fall as leaves damaged the finish and I had to take peel it off) -


----------



## KaptainK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Try it both ways. I would think intake with filter would be best. 5th post in "Ways to Better Cooling" link in my sig. about case airflow. I have Evolv ATX on air so quite different, but I think the Evolv mATX has similar problem with top radiator needing all unused holes in mounting plate blocked to keep airflow from circling around and back down into case rather than out the vents.
> If the top radiator plate looks like the one in lower section of this image, do as instructed
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1418637/official-case-phanteks-case-club-for-lovers-owners/13700_20#post_25268315


I have already planned to make something to obstruct the passage with cardboard
I'd tried both ways, but this is the first time I make a loop and I would like to do it right on the first try and not have to mess afterwards.


----------



## redshoulder

There is plenty of space to re-orientate the rear fan after loop is built.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaptainK*
> 
> So with a front 240 rad and a top 240 rad, front as intake, top as exhaust, fan at the same speed (phanteks hub) what to do with the rear fan ? Mount it as intake to supply fresh air to the top and also have positive pressure ? Or just drop it to have intake = exhaust ?


I would probably do back as intake with a filter.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *redshoulder*
> 
> No removable bracket but general design is same


I'm guessing that the areas I colored orange are openings between area above radiator and motherboard compartment, and i'm sure I missed some too. They all need to be blocked to keep the heated air coming out of radiator from leaking back into motherboard compartment.


----------



## KaptainK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> I would probably do back as intake with a filter.
> I'm guessing that the areas I colored orange are openings between area above radiator and motherboard compartment, and i'm sure I missed some too. They all need to be blocked to keep the heated air coming out of radiator from leaking back into motherboard compartment.


My bad, I understood that you told me to mount the top rad as intake ...


----------



## jassilamba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> I'm guessing that the areas I colored orange are openings between area above radiator and motherboard compartment, and i'm sure I missed some too. They all need to be blocked to keep the heated air coming out of radiator from leaking back into motherboard compartment.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Makes me wonder if I should ask Greg to make laser cut acrylic block off plates for these cases
















I know when I did a build in the In Win 909, I had him cut me acrylic fan hole block off plates. They worked great.


----------



## redshoulder

Yes all orange except for latch points and door area,

If top is restrictive in your situation add another set of fans, if radiator is offset at top there is 28mm of clearance between bottom rad fan and 8pin power pin, also there are no clearance issues with rear fan, except you will need G 1/4" extender or compression straight fitting etc on rad to avoid clearance issue with bottom left fan


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jassilamba*
> 
> Makes me wonder if I should ask Greg to make laser cut acrylic block off plates for these cases
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I know when I did a build in the In Win 909, I had him cut me acrylic fan hole block off plates. They worked great.


I like the idea, but how many different ones would we end up with? Radiator fin areas are 120x120, 120x240, 120x360, 140x140, 140x280; .. with how many possilbe radiator placements? Or at least common placements?

I wondered if if might be easier to apply adhesive vinyl the size of mounting plate to block everything, then use a razor knife to cut out out the radiator area before mounting the radiator? Once radiator is installed, 1/2" 1" and 2" vinyl tape would make quick work of it, but one side would be sticking in open areas .. a built in fly catcher. D
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaptainK*
> 
> My bad, I understood that you told me to mount the top rad as intake ...


At a guess the back vent area is only about have the area of 2x 240mm radiators so would be restricting radiator airflow, especially at higher fan speeds when it's needed most.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *redshoulder*
> 
> Yes all orange except for latch points and door area,
> 
> If top is restrictive in your situation add another set of fans, if radiator is offset at top there is 28mm of clearance between bottom rad fan and 8pin power pin, also there are no clearance issues with rear fan, except you will need G 1/4" extender or compression straight fitting etc on rad to avoid clearance issue with bottom left fan


No room for fan above mounting plate.
Yeah, could sandwich top fans between mounting plate and radiator.

I found on the Evolv ATX just unlatching the top and just setting it back on leave a nice 5mm space .. that's way more additional venting than top has stock venting.


----------



## redshoulder

Maybe removing the mesh and cutting the grill on both sides of the top panel might help,but keeping the corners in order to secure the latch points.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> I like the idea, but how many different ones would we end up with? Radiator fin areas are 120x120, 120x240, 120x360, 140x140, 140x280; .. with how many possilbe radiator placements? Or at least common placements?
> 
> I wondered if if might be easier to apply adhesive vinyl the size of mounting plate to block everything, then use a razor knife to cut out out the radiator area before mounting the radiator? Once radiator is installed, 1/2" 1" and 2" vinyl tape would make quick work of it, but one side would be sticking in open areas .. a built in fly catcher. D
> At a guess the back vent area is only about have the area of 2x 240mm radiators so would be restricting radiator airflow, especially at higher fan speeds when it's needed most.
> No room for fan above mounting plate.
> Yeah, could sandwich top fans between mounting plate and radiator.
> 
> I found on the Evolv ATX just unlatching the top and just setting it back on leave a nice 5mm space .. that's way more additional venting than top has stock venting.


I made some spacers and used some longer screws to space the top up on it's mounts. Was just playing around, because I'm air cooled and want front to back flow, with little to no air movement going up. This helps CPU cooler get cool air from front rather than heated air coming off of GPU cooler.


----------



## Kajel

Here's an updated shot of my rig with the TG taken off. It's a work in progress


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kajel*
> 
> Here's an updated shot of my rig with the TG taken off. It's a work in progress


Nicely done!


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *redshoulder*
> 
> Maybe removing the mesh and cutting the grill on both sides of the top panel might help,but keeping the corners in order to secure the latch points.


I doubt that will make a difference. How many cubic inches is that, realistically? IMO the front panel IO blocking the air and the side mesh are more of an issue than the front and rear grill. All of that probably wouldn't be as effective as resting the to on the clips.


----------



## redshoulder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> I doubt that will make a difference. How many cubic inches is that, realistically? IMO the front panel IO blocking the air and the side mesh are more of an issue than the front and rear grill. All of that probably wouldn't be as effective as resting the to on the clips.


.000288m3
Yes resting on clips is undoubtedly more effective, but if you have cats that are pc friendly then...
Also with matx version you can see the front grill as the IO is on the side of the case.


----------



## Lord Crisp

Can anyone tell me if the Phanteks Pro M Acrylic will let me install a Swiftech H320-X2 in the top and still be able to install a 240 or even 280mm radiator in front, without removing the PSU shroud cover and the 2 HDD mounts?

I already have the cooler, and I'm very interested in shrinking my case... the Pro M Acrylic is prefect for me...

I know a most of the Fractal Design cases, supports what I'm after, but they don't have a PSU shroud, and I generally don't like their designs

Also open to other suggestions, though, hidden PSU is almost a must...
Even open to big cases, just fell in love the how open these are with their "lack" of 3,5" and 5,25" mounts


----------



## jassilamba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kriz225*
> 
> I still want to put a build into the P400S... *sigh*


I don't blame you ......


----------



## kriz225

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jassilamba*
> 
> I don't blame you ......















Now that's just cruel!


----------



## Avant Garde

Can someone post Tempered Glass box dimensions?


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Avant Garde*
> 
> Can someone post Tempered Glass box dimensions?


Right on the product page....


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kriz225*
> 
> Sounds good to me!
> 
> I still want to put a build into the P400S... *sigh*












While the P400 is a great little case at a low price it is not as refined as other Phanteks cases.
I wish Phanteks would make the Enthoo Mini XL in ATX or E-ATX layout.
Size difference is

MiniXL 260 mm x 550 mm x 480 mm (W x H x D)
P400 . 210 mm x 465 mm x 470 mm (W x H x D)
Diff. . . 50 mm . x 80 mm . x 10 mm

Remove HDD & optical drive bays.
E-ATX motherboard tray could be about 385mm from top of PSU to top of case.
With 180mm CPU clearance there would be about 60mm behind motherboard tray for cable, SSD and even HDD management..

I have MiniXL DS case. If I had comparable donor case or back panel and motherboard tray I would mod it into ATX / E-ATX.


----------



## Avant Garde

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Right on the product page....


Ok THANK YOU! I'M BLIND...


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kriz225*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now that's just cruel!


True!
But beautifully engineered cruelty.


----------



## lazyalam

First 2 bends ever.... Also first time watercooling period. I want to keep the fans on the inside so anyone got any tips for doing that tight bend inwards into the in Port of the reservoir.... I'm thinking something crazy like coiling it around the res.


----------



## kriz225

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> While the P400 is a great little case at a low price it is not as refined as other Phanteks cases.
> I wish Phanteks would make the Enthoo Mini XL in ATX or E-ATX layout.


Wow, I hadn't even seen the Mini XL. Looks like a really well thought out design. I'm a fan of the modularity built into these cases. Put an HDD case in here, or take it out and add a pump mount, or take it all out to make room for a rad...

What I liked about the P400, besides the price, is that it looks really understated. I kinda like the idea of a "sleeper" PC. Looks like an off the shelf BestBuy computer, but runs like a demon


----------



## Kajel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kriz225*
> 
> That looks phenomenal! What have you got left to do?


Thanks! I still need to come up with some kind of top panel mod. MNPCTECH has a front panel mod in the works
but they wont be doing a top mod.


----------



## Avant Garde

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lazyalam*
> 
> 
> First 2 bends ever.... Also first time watercooling period. I want to keep the fans on the inside so anyone got any tips for doing that tight bend inwards into the in Port of the reservoir.... I'm thinking something crazy like coiling it around the res.


How do you change that GPU? You must disassemble everything or is that just a weird angle shot?


----------



## Lord Crisp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Flyingsea*
> 
> Hello, fellows!
> 
> I'm going to build my rig with Enthoo Evolv ATX with Swiftech H320 X2 on the top position.
> 
> But i don't really like the look of it (the rad and fans covering the mobo)
> 
> 
> I'm aware of the top cavity lifehack that enables to place a fans inside the top cover (at least 2x140mm)
> 
> 
> So my question is: will it possible to put 3x120mm fan in this cavity?
> Otherwise I'll just buy smaller AIO to put it this way.


Anyone know if the top fan trick is possible with the Pro M also?
I've very interested in the cabinet, but I'm scared it doesn't have the radiator space I need, since I also have a H320-X2 and want to install a 240-280mm in the front also

Edit: Sorry... didn't notice that this was one of the threads I already wrote in


----------



## lazyalam

Also thinking of 3d printing (free uni printing) a nameplate or something to cover the psu... Just don't know what to name it.... And shuts up its not weird to name your pc.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Avant Garde*
> 
> How do you change that GPU? You must disassemble everything or is that just a weird angle shot?


You mean the paint job? Yeah, remember dad laughing when he walked into me taking apart my 980 ti first thing out of the box


----------



## Alover

Hello ive just buy a new phanteks enthoo pro m.
Its really better than i expected.
But i noticed something weird.
There no mobo speaker right? xd


----------



## dlewbell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alover*
> 
> Hello ive just buy a new phanteks enthoo pro m.
> Its really better than i expected.
> But i noticed something weird.
> There no mobo speaker right? xd


Most modern cases generally don't come with motherboard speakers anymore. If you want one, you'll need to supply it yourself.


----------



## Alover

Nice! I wont miss it anyway xd.

I have another question, maybe someone could give some tip.

The hdd "vibrates" a lot, and these vibrations make the case "buzz".

Its not a loud buzzing, but still audible if you focus on it.

Im triying to isolate the vibrations or something, but i dont know what to do









Thank you for the support!


----------



## Avant Garde

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lazyalam*
> 
> Also thinking of 3d printing (free uni printing) a nameplate or something to cover the psu... Just don't know what to name it.... And shuts up its not weird to name your pc.
> You mean the paint job? Yeah, remember dad laughing when he walked into me taking apart my 980 ti first thing out of the box


LOL no, I mean when you upgrade your GPU. You must take apart that tube, take out your old GPU and insert the new one? If so than it's a bit of a hassle don't you think?


----------



## Chiobe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alover*
> 
> Nice! I wont miss it anyway xd.
> 
> I have another question, maybe someone could give some tip.
> 
> The hdd "vibrates" a lot, and these vibrations make the case "buzz".
> 
> Its not a loud buzzing, but still audible if you focus on it.
> 
> Im triying to isolate the vibrations or something, but i dont know what to do
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thank you for the support!


What you want is some kind of anti-vibration or a "HDD cooler".
The problem with most of them, is that they turn a 3.5 HDD to a 5.25 HDD.

I have this one my self: http://www.scythe-eu.com/en/products/hdd-cooler/himuro.html
Comes with the added benefit of removing noise when the HDD is working and keeps it cooler then with just anti-vibration.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Avant Garde*
> 
> LOL no, I mean when you upgrade your GPU. You must take apart that tube, take out your old GPU and insert the new one? If so than it's a bit of a hassle don't you think?


not really unless you use qdcs you have to drain the loop anyway...so taking out the tube isnt the hard part


----------



## lazyalam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Avant Garde*
> 
> LOL no, I mean when you upgrade your GPU. You must take apart that tube, take out your old GPU and insert the new one? If so than it's a bit of a hassle don't you think?


Yeah in that case it's the camera angle, the tube is clear of the gpu


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alover*
> 
> Nice! I wont miss it anyway xd.
> 
> I have another question, maybe someone could give some tip.
> 
> The hdd "vibrates" a lot, and these vibrations make the case "buzz".
> 
> Its not a loud buzzing, but still audible if you focus on it.
> 
> Im triying to isolate the vibrations or something, but i dont know what to do
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thank you for the support!


This is caused by one of the HDD not sitting quite square. Try switching the HDD positions. You can also put a small piece of foam, cardboard, etc between the drives to apply slight pressure to make it stop.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chiobe*
> 
> What you want is some kind of anti-vibration or a "HDD cooler".
> The problem with most of them, is that they turn a 3.5 HDD to a 5.25 HDD.
> 
> I have this one my self: http://www.scythe-eu.com/en/products/hdd-cooler/himuro.html
> Comes with the added benefit of removing noise when the HDD is working and keeps it cooler then with just anti-vibration.


No. Just no. Not a viable solution for the case in question, and not really a good answer for any application. One simply finds the source of the buzz and rectifies it. You don't spend money on a part and relocate your HDD to save three minutes of investigation.


----------



## Chiobe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> No. Just no. Not a viable solution for the case in question, and not really a good answer for any application. One simply finds the source of the buzz and rectifies it. You don't spend money on a part and relocate your HDD to save three minutes of investigation.


It depends on the HDD, as some of them makes a lot of noise, when when vibration is taken out of the equation, as my WD Blacks do. Plus you get more space to mount SSDs.

But you can do it easier, if you know how to mod the HDD cage a little, as you generally need a new mounting system to prevent vibration from moving to the case.
If you dont move the case, so can getting rid of the tray and using zip ties/rubber bands, be an easy solution.


----------



## Alover

Yeah im triying to get rid of this vibrations with some foam!.


----------



## BinaryBummer

I think some used the rubber grommets, but who knows you may buy a black piece of foam from the crafting dept at a walmarrt and make your own.. its cheap and double sided tape you could line them up and stick them. Other then that a lowes or hardware may have something you can try to use that is all rubber.


----------



## Chiobe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BinaryBummer*
> 
> I think some used the rubber grommets, but who knows you may buy a black piece of foam from the crafting dept at a walmarrt and make your own.. its cheap and double sided tape you could line them up and stick them. Other then that a lowes or hardware may have something you can try to use that is all rubber.


The problem is not the HDD it self, but how its mounted.
Most use a screw mounting of some kind, meaning you need to get something between those screws and the HDD cage, to even get an effect.
With a tray, so do you need to isolate the entire tray from the HDD cage.

Only way to use foam, is to remove the tray all together and just have foam all the way around the HDD, without any other kind of mounting. But dont expect good temps.

But this is still the easiest DIY method:


----------



## BinaryBummer

augh you just need some Drive Rails as they are called.. Some local shops or even junk stores may have them around.


----------



## ciarlatano

I was suggesting he put a small piece of foam or cardboard between the drives to apply light pressure. This causes the drive sleds to sit firmly and not vibrate. That is the cause in the Pro M and Evolv ATX.


----------



## Chiobe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BinaryBummer*
> 
> 
> augh you just need some Drive Rails as they are called.. Some local shops or even junk stores may have them around.


I have seen them and most of them makes 3.5 into 5.25, also they dont have any anti-vibration, unless you put some money in them.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> I was suggesting he put a small piece of foam or cardboard between the drives to apply light pressure. This causes the drive sleds to sit firmly and not vibrate. That is the cause in the Pro M and Evolv ATX.


If you think thats enough, then it can be worth trying.
But in my experience, so is HDD vibration caused by the screws/tray moving with the HDD. Meaning that locking the up and downward movements might not be enough, as you need to account for sideways as well. Plus if you have enough drives or one that shakes a lot, the hole HDD cage might vibrate, meaning you need to isolate it as well.


----------



## dmfree88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alover*
> 
> Nice! I wont miss it anyway xd.
> 
> I have another question, maybe someone could give some tip.
> 
> The hdd "vibrates" a lot, and these vibrations make the case "buzz".
> 
> Its not a loud buzzing, but still audible if you focus on it.
> 
> Im triying to isolate the vibrations or something, but i dont know what to do
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thank you for the support!


Take off the front cover while the PC is running and shove a piece of foam in there while its making noise (if you can). I was able to do it while running (using Pro-M) and shoved a small piece of foam along the side of the HDD if I recall correctly. I wrapped the foam with electrical tape to prevent it from breaking apart or making a mess. I also did similar to the top radiator cage so I don't have to screw it in place. Not worth a permanent fix really. Never seen nor heard from again







.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chiobe*
> 
> I have seen them and most of them makes 3.5 into 5.25, also they dont have any anti-vibration, unless you put some money in them.
> If you think thats enough, then it can be worth trying.
> But in my experience, so is HDD vibration caused by the screws/tray moving with the HDD. Meaning that locking the up and downward movements might not be enough, as you need to account for sideways as well. Plus if you have enough drives or one that shakes a lot, the hole HDD cage might vibrate, meaning you need to isolate it as well.


It's a *Pro M*. It can hold two drives - period. It is a common problem with *the particular case that the user is asking about*, and is a case that you have not used and don't seem to have even looked at the layout of before making suggestions. While you are making some suggestions that are fundamentally good, that don't apply to the Pro M.


----------



## pez

Yeah unless you want to mount the drives on those sort-of free hanging mounts







.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pez*
> 
> Yeah unless you want to mount the drives on those sort-of free hanging mounts
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


the hard drive hammock....


----------



## kriz225

Hey do you guys have any experience with the Phanteks PWM fan hub?

http://phanteks.com/PH-PWHUB.html

I believe the standalone unit is the same one they include with the Evolv, minus the plastic cover. I've got 6 fans connected to one. 3 are EK Vardar and the other 3 are the included Phanteks 140mm fans. I know they're different RPM fans, and this isn't ideal, but I was under the impression that the only RPM signal sent back to the motherboard was that of the unit hooked up to the FAN1 port.

Based on the motherboard's (ASUS MAXIMUS VII HERO) monitoring, it looks like that's the case. However, I can't get the thing to boot without turning the CPU_FAN monitoring off entirely. It's strange, because the moment I get into BIOS I can see the "fan" reporting around 1600 RPM... the low alarm was configured for 200 RPM and still wouldn't boot.

Anyone run into anything like this?


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kriz225*
> 
> Hey do you guys have any experience with the Phanteks PWM fan hub?
> 
> http://phanteks.com/PH-PWHUB.html
> 
> I believe the standalone unit is the same one they include with the Evolv, minus the plastic cover. I've got 6 fans connected to one. 3 are EK Vardar and the other 3 are the included Phanteks 140mm fans. I know they're different RPM fans, and this isn't ideal, but I was under the impression that the only RPM signal sent back to the motherboard was that of the unit hooked up to the FAN1 port.
> 
> Based on the motherboard's (ASUS MAXIMUS VII HERO) monitoring, it looks like that's the case. However, I can't get the thing to boot without turning the CPU_FAN monitoring off entirely. It's strange, because the moment I get into BIOS I can see the "fan" reporting around 1600 RPM... the low alarm was configured for 200 RPM and still wouldn't boot.
> 
> Anyone run into anything like this?


That is not uncommon for many fan hubs. I had the same happen with the Phanteks (and others) when using certain fans, I have also had ASUS boards do the same thing when certain fans were hooked up directly to the MB. So, nothing to worry about, I have found it to be more an ASUS issue than fan hub issue.


----------



## kriz225

I'm not super concerned about it. It's been running fine like this for a week or so now.

That said, I would like to be able to turn the monitoring on in case the fans did fail sometime in the future. Have you ever come to a resolution?

I'm planning to do a bit of testing later, after updating the BIOS to the current version, but I'm just not sure why it's even happening since the motherboard seems to get a proper RPM signal as soon as I get into BIOS...


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kriz225*
> 
> I'm not super concerned about it. It's been running fine like this for a week or so now.
> 
> That said, I would like to be able to turn the monitoring on in case the fans did fail sometime in the future. Have you ever come to a resolution?
> 
> I'm planning to do a bit of testing later, after updating the BIOS to the current version, but *I'm just not sure why it's even happening since the motherboard seems to get a proper RPM signal as soon as I get into BIOS...*


That is why I chaulk it up to an ASUS issue. I have had it happen with fans connected directly to the CPU header. Check your fan speed warning in BIOS and make sure it is set to the lowest speed, that may help.

My resolution wasn't really a resolution at all. With my current configuration I have a PWM D5 on the CPU header, and the hub connected to a chassis header set to PWM mode, so it is a non-issue. In the past I simply disabled the warning. I would clearly be able to tell if all of my fans weren't running, I wouldn't need a BIOS warning to tell me that. Also, the warning will only tell you if the fan on CH1 fails since that is the only fan that is monitored by the hub.


----------



## kriz225

You have a good point there, about it only reporting the failure of one fan. Guess I'll just leave it off. Thanks!


----------



## mmcneil

I have a dumb question guys... I want to replace the front fans in my Enthoo primo, but I don't want to lose the LED capability. Are those permanently attached to the front 140MM fans that come with it, or can I use them with a different set of fans.

Thanks,

Mike


----------



## Valgaur

Doesn't the evolv tg come with led straps? If so mine hasn't


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Valgaur*
> 
> Doesn't the evolv tg come with led straps? If so mine hasn't


Sold separately.


----------



## Diarrhea

Took a while (and still not finished) but completed the Plasti Dip on the top panel. It took so long because I am a noob when it comes to spray painting and I had to literally peel everything off because the end result left with a textured look. Now I think it looks better AND feels smoother lol. I was planning on using a Sharpie for the aluminum edges if all else failed with the Plasti Dip but looks like I won't be needing it


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Diarrhea*
> 
> Took a while (and still not finished) but completed the Plasti Dip on the top panel. It took so long because I am a noob when it comes to spray painting and I had to literally peel everything off because the end result left with a textured look. Now I think it looks better AND feels smoother lol. I was planning on using a Sharpie for the aluminum edges if all else failed with the Plasti Dip but looks like I won't be needing it


Looks grate!


----------



## Valgaur

Finally....it's done. For now.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mmcneil*
> 
> I have a dumb question guys... I want to replace the front fans in my Enthoo primo, but I don't want to lose the LED capability. Are those permanently attached to the front 140MM fans that come with it, or can I use them with a different set of fans.
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Mike


They are pertinently mounted in the fans. But I have a dumb question .. why change the fans?


----------



## Chiobe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> It's a *Pro M*. It can hold two drives - period. It is a common problem with *the particular case that the user is asking about*, and is a case that you have not used and don't seem to have even looked at the layout of before making suggestions. While you are making some suggestions that are fundamentally good, that don't apply to the Pro M.


I was talking based on my experience, but if you know how to fix the problem for that case, then I will go away from that topic.


----------



## pez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Valgaur*
> 
> Finally....it's done. For now.


Look great! I'm still a huge fan of air cooled systems that look beefy







.


----------



## doyll

Got some more pics of MNPCtech Evolv ATX prototype acrylic front vented panel. Though you might like to see them


----------



## Gil80

Hi everyone.

I own the Enthoo Primo.

Today I got myself a plexi top for my D5 pump.

That's the one: https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-xtop-d5-vario-plexi-incl-pump

The problem I'm facing is that the pump top mount holes are not aligned with the Enthoo Primo pump mount.

Did anyone face a similar situation?
If yes, what was the solution? I'm trying to avoid drilling new holes on the case's pump mount, but if that's the only way to go...

Would any of it reduce it's shocking absorption capabilities?


----------



## pez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Got some more pics of MNPCtech Evolv ATX prototype acrylic front vented panel. Though you might like to see them
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ]


Do you think he'd bother with those wanting one for the Evolv ITX? I'd be pretty open to that idea for my GFs case







.


----------



## smithydan

I think if that front acrylic concept had the bends(and I understand why not) it would be great.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gil80*
> 
> Hi everyone.
> 
> I own the Enthoo Primo.
> 
> Today I got myself a plexi top for my D5 pump.
> 
> That's the one: https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-xtop-d5-vario-plexi-incl-pump
> 
> The problem I'm facing is that the pump top mount holes are not aligned with the Enthoo Primo pump mount.
> 
> Did anyone face a similar situation?
> If yes, what was the solution? I'm trying to avoid drilling new holes on the case's pump mount, but if that's the only way to go...
> 
> Would any of it reduce it's shocking absorption capabilities?


You only need to drill one hole and it does not affect the shock absorption.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pez*
> 
> Do you think he'd bother with those wanting one for the Evolv ITX? I'd be pretty open to that idea for my GFs case
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


It's a possible. Would be nice!







.


----------



## Kajel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Diarrhea*
> 
> Took a while (and still not finished) but completed the Plasti Dip on the top panel. It took so long because I am a noob when it comes to spray painting and I had to literally peel everything off because the end result left with a textured look. Now I think it looks better AND feels smoother lol. I was planning on using a Sharpie for the aluminum edges if all else failed with the Plasti Dip but looks like I won't be needing it


Oh WOW! would you mod my top just like that?
looks excellent


----------



## Bill Owen

@doyll, I'm getting several follow-up requests for Mnpctech to create replacement
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> A custom vent cut into top (and front) would be great, but also problematic in that it will chip the finish, meaning finsh would need to be stripped and re-painted.
> 
> Maybe with a little begging we could get someone like MNPCTech to make some custom front and top panels.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> It's a possible. Would be nice!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


what color bezel? @pez

should have final version done this week @doyll


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bill Owen*
> 
> @doyll, I'm getting several follow-up requests for Mnpctech to create replacement
> 
> what color bezel? @pez
> 
> should have final version done this week @doyll


I would be all over a gray one.


----------



## pez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bill Owen*
> 
> @doyll, I'm getting several follow-up requests for Mnpctech to create replacement
> 
> what color bezel? @pez
> 
> should have final version done this week @doyll


Hi there Bill! I always forget that you lurk around here







.

But, I would love to see a white one







.


----------



## madmeatballs

I know I've asked this recently but I just want to make sure if you guys know if a 280mm rad like NZXT Kraken X61 would fit in front of a Enthoo Pro M?


----------



## jassilamba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *madmeatballs*
> 
> I know I've asked this recently but I just want to make sure if you guys know if a 280mm rad like NZXT Kraken X61 would fit in front of a Enthoo Pro M?


I know a H110 fits in the front, so a Kraken shouldn't have any problems.


----------



## madmeatballs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jassilamba*
> 
> I know a H110 fits in the front, so a Kraken shouldn't have any problems.


without removing anything right?


----------



## jassilamba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *madmeatballs*
> 
> without removing anything right?


Correct.


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *madmeatballs*
> 
> I know I've asked this recently but I just want to make sure if you guys know if a 280mm rad like NZXT Kraken X61 would fit in front of a Enthoo Pro M?


as long a you remove the optical bay, yes. there is only about 285 mm of space between the mid plate and the optical bay, enough for 240 rads. a 280 rad is going to be 310 - 325 mm so you'd need to have the optical bay out or the bottom HDD cage out.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jassilamba*
> 
> I know a H110 fits in the front, so a Kraken shouldn't have any problems.


Well, given that they are the same cooler with different fans.....


----------



## madmeatballs

Hmm, I am confused lol. Although I also asked Phantek's facebook. They said it would be fine without removing the odd bay. Well only one way to find out, I'll just have to try it when I get an x61. Unless someone can show a picture.


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *madmeatballs*
> 
> Hmm, I am confused lol. Although I also asked Phantek's facebook. They said it would be fine without removing the odd bay. Well only one way to find out, I'll just have to try it when I get an x61. Unless someone can show a picture.


look here:





these are 240 rads and they eat up the whole space *without removing anything*.


----------



## madmeatballs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PureBlackFire*
> 
> look here:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> these are 240 rads and they eat up the whole space *without removing anything*.


Well then Phanteks' manual for the Enthoo Pro M has an error then.


----------



## PureBlackFire

wouldn't be the first time a pdf from a manufacturer had an error. but this time the error is on your end. to quote you:
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *madmeatballs*
> 
> without removing anything right?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *madmeatballs*
> 
> Hmm, I am confused lol. Although I also asked Phantek's facebook. *They said it would be fine without removing the odd bay*. Well only one way to find out, I'll just have to try it when I get an x61. Unless someone can show a picture.


and on the part of whomever you were in contact with on facebook. as the photographs show, 240 rads can fit without removing anything, nothing bigger.

the pdf lists support for 360 rads in front also, and to fit one of those you need to not only remove the ODD bay, but give up on all the case's hard drive mounts. the case holds 280 or even 360 rads in the front, but not without removing things that are in the way. very, very simple. the answer to your question:
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *madmeatballs*
> 
> without removing anything right?


is *no*.


----------



## pez

I think removing the plate on the shroud/basement would allow for this. I don't think you would have to remove the ODD, though. I think that is what is being miscommunicated here.


----------



## smithydan

Exactly. The case can holds a 280mm with the ODD bay, just have to remove the bottom plate.


----------



## madmeatballs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smithydan*
> 
> Exactly. The case can holds a 280mm with the ODD bay, just have to remove the bottom plate.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Good find! Well thanks for helping me figure this out guys! After all Phanteks' Facebook page probably forgot to mention this to me then.


----------



## smithydan

Can someone tell me the height from the bottom in the compartment to the top piece above the removable bracket. Not the case aluminum, the structural bars going across.


----------



## Faster_is_better

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gil80*
> 
> Hi everyone.
> 
> I own the Enthoo Primo.
> 
> Today I got myself a plexi top for my D5 pump.
> 
> That's the one: https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-xtop-d5-vario-plexi-incl-pump
> 
> The problem I'm facing is that the pump top mount holes are not aligned with the Enthoo Primo pump mount.
> 
> Did anyone face a similar situation?
> If yes, what was the solution? I'm trying to avoid drilling new holes on the case's pump mount, but if that's the only way to go...
> 
> Would any of it reduce it's shocking absorption capabilities?


I think I had to drill 1 hole in my pump mount. That hard rubber pad on the mount probably doesn't even help with vibration of the pump much, I put a piece of foam in between my pump and the mount. Having it screwed in probably transfers some of the vibration anyway but this is better than screwing directly to the mount I think. Best solution would probably to just let the pump float on top of a piece of foam or maybe tied down with velcro straps or something soft.


MCP50x in the pic.


----------



## Gil80

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Faster_is_better*
> 
> I think I had to drill 1 hole in my pump mount. That hard rubber pad on the mount probably doesn't even help with vibration of the pump much, I put a piece of foam in between my pump and the mount. Having it screwed in probably transfers some of the vibration anyway but this is better than screwing directly to the mount I think. Best solution would probably to just let the pump float on top of a piece of foam or maybe tied down with velcro straps or something soft.
> 
> 
> MCP50x in the pic.


man, thank for the detailed reply!
I'll do the same. I'll use a sponge under the D5 pump and drill one hole. I do hope that this one hole I have to drill won't change orientation of the pump with its tubings.


----------



## Bill Owen

@ciarlatano, unfortunately, after speaking with my acrylic supplier, solid gray color isn't in the cards for color options.

@pez, noted, thank you.


----------



## pez

Woohoo


----------



## Testing12

Enthoo Pro M Three 3.5" HDD Question:

I'd like to house 3 HDD's in an Enthoo Pro M. It looks like it'll be a tight fit to put a radiator on top, so I thought I'd place fans there and put the radiator in the front. This of course means there won't be enough room to hang one or more Modular HDD Brackets (PH-HDDKT_02), so I thought there might be a solution around back (the right side if you're looking at the case head-on, you know, the cable management side). 
There is a Drop-N-Lock mount in the basement of the Pro M. It's next to the Hard Drive cage housing on the left side of the case (between the Hard Drive cage housing and the PSU area). I'm wondering if I could put the accessory 3.5" HDD Bracket (PH-HDDKT_01) there and still retain the existing 2-drive cage housing.
As I look at a couple of the pics on Phanteks' site, it doesn't appear that it will fit:





However, those pics could be misleading, so I'm hoping there's someone who has experience with this.

Thanks for any help with this&#8230;


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Testing12*
> 
> Enthoo Pro M Three 3.5" HDD Question:
> 
> I'd like to house 3 HDD's in an Enthoo Pro M. It looks like it'll be a tight fit to put a radiator on top, so I thought I'd place fans there and put the radiator in the front. This of course means there won't be enough room to hang one or more Modular HDD Brackets (PH-HDDKT_02), so I thought there might be a solution around back (the right side if you're looking at the case head-on, you know, the cable management side). 
> There is a Drop-N-Lock mount in the basement of the Pro M. It's next to the Hard Drive cage housing on the left side of the case (between the Hard Drive cage housing and the PSU area). I'm wondering if I could put the accessory 3.5" HDD Bracket (PH-HDDKT_01) there and still retain the existing 2-drive cage housing.
> As I look at a couple of the pics on Phanteks' site, it doesn't appear that it will fit:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> However, those pics could be misleading, so I'm hoping there's someone who has experience with this.
> 
> Thanks for any help with this&#8230;


Unfortunately, it is one or the other - both will not fit at the same time.


----------



## dainfamous

You can fit a drop and lock in the basement by using one pair of locks. You would also need to put some sort of stand to level out the hard drive since only one side is being locked. Should be ok as long as the computer does not move around alot. Also some guy earlier in this thread took out all the cages and was able to place 3 hard drives on the floor of the case.


----------



## PureBlackFire

I've seen a build in the pro M or Evolv with a regular HDD cddyu on the back side of where the drive normally mount, similar to the Define S.


----------



## Testing12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dainfamous*
> 
> You can fit a drop and lock in the basement by using one pair of locks. You would also need to put some sort of stand to level out the hard drive since only one side is being locked. Should be ok as long as the computer does not move around alot.


Hmm.. that sounds like something that might be doable&#8230;
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dainfamous*
> 
> Also some guy earlier in this thread took out all the cages and was able to place 3 hard drives on the floor of the case.


That would be great. How'd he mount the drives?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PureBlackFire*
> 
> I've seen a build in the pro M or Evolv with a regular HDD cddyu on the back side of where the drive normally mount, similar to the Define S.


You mean under the motherboard cutout where the SSD mounts are?

Yeah, I was wondering if there would be enough room to house a 3.5" HDD in that location. The specs on the website says there's 35 mm (1.38") spacing for cable management. Not sure if that's in the motherboard cutout area, or the area next to the front of the case where there's a bit more room.


----------



## PureBlackFire

no, I mean right behind the tabs for the internal HDD brackets.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PureBlackFire*
> 
> I've seen a build in the pro M or Evolv with a regular HDD cddyu on the back side of where the drive normally mount, similar to the Define S.


This is something that should have been included from the factory.


----------



## BinaryBummer

Hay guys I am ready to get a case and I am looking at a windowed case, the Enthroo Pro TG. I need to advice on a AIO Cooler to put in at min 240mm for my AMD-8370. I also have x2 2.5SSD's and x3 5.25 hard drives.

Also does this case come with the power fan board thing that I saw in a video?
I am down to the last few items for my system.

PSU, Case and AIO maybe a few fans for backup, I do prefer to keep a Red Theme for items but not a deal breaker.

I am shooting for the SeaSonic Prime Titanium 750w PSU and I am sure that will fit with no problems.

Any help advice and on the AIO if there is more then one advice to why it is better.

Thx.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BinaryBummer*
> 
> Hay guys I am ready to get a case and I am looking at a windowed case, the Enthroo Pro TG. I need to advice on a AIO Cooler to put in at min 240mm for my AMD-8370. I also have x2 2.5SSD's and x3 5.25 hard drives.
> 
> Also does this case come with the power fan board thing that I saw in a video?
> I am down to the last few items for my system.
> 
> PSU, Case and AIO maybe a few fans for backup, I do prefer to keep a Red Theme for items but not a deal breaker.
> 
> I am shooting for the SeaSonic Prime Titanium 750w PSU and I am sure that will fit with no problems.
> 
> Any help advice and on the AIO if there is more then one advice to why it is better.
> 
> Thx.


That's a pretty easy one. The Swiftech H240-X2 (which is 280mm and fits like a glove in that case) or H320-X2 are the best performing, lowest noise AiO on the market, and happen to look pretty incredible in that case. The reservoir and block are RGB, and red dye (as well as a couple of other colors) is included for the liquid, so no worries with your red theme.

You could also consider the EK Predator, but they are louder, don't perform quite as well, and don't have the looks.

Anything below them is a *huge* step down.


----------



## jassilamba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> That's a pretty easy one. The Swiftech H240-X2 (which is 280mm and fits like a glove in that case) or H320-X2 are the best performing, lowest noise AiO on the market, and happen to look pretty incredible in that case. The reservoir and block are RGB, and red dye (as well as a couple of other colors) is included for the liquid, so no worries with your red theme.
> 
> You could also consider the EK Predator, but they are louder, don't perform quite as well, and don't have the looks.
> 
> Anything below them is a *huge* step down.


^^^ Totally agree on those AIOs as they use real watercooling parts, whereas things like H100s or Krakens are all the same thing. Made by Asetek so you want something like that, just go for what looks good to you (they are all the same IMO).


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> That's a pretty easy one. The Swiftech H240-X2 (which is 280mm and fits like a glove in that case) or H320-X2 are the best performing, lowest noise AiO on the market, and happen to look pretty incredible in that case. The reservoir and block are RGB, and red dye (as well as a couple of other colors) is included for the liquid, so no worries with your red theme.
> 
> You could also consider the EK Predator, but they are louder, don't perform quite as well, and don't have the looks.
> 
> Anything below them is a *huge* step down.


The EK Predator does have a huge advantage in the quick disconnect though, so if you would want a GPU block or more radiator space (unsure about this one, but you can always ask) in the future you could just buy pre filled from EK, and more or less get the advantages of a custom loop without the hassle.

Other than that, I couldn't agree more.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> The EK Predator does have a huge advantage in the quick disconnect though, so if you would want a GPU block or more radiator space (unsure about this one, but you can always ask) in the future you could just buy pre filled from EK, and more or less get the advantages of a custom loop without the hassle.
> 
> Other than that, I couldn't agree more.


Being limited in your block choices and have bad tubing lengths is a "huge advantage"? I'm going to have to disagree with you on that one.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Being limited in your block choices and have bad tubing lengths is a "huge advantage"? I'm going to have to disagree with you on that one.


I agree with ciarlatano. The fixed hose lengths, plus added ridged length of and cost of quick disconnects isn't worth it to me .. but then I've gone from air to water and back to air. .. and now waiting for be quiet! Quiet Loop to arrive for a play.


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Being limited in your block choices and have bad tubing lengths is a "huge advantage"? I'm going to have to disagree with you on that one.


And you're allowed to do so. Still EKWB is probably the supplier with the most "complete" supply of available blocks fir more or less anything. There are absolutely stuff I don't like about them and things that could be better, but that doesn't mean I can just ignore the advantage of this service. Just like I should not ignore the fact that the AIO may not be as good as Swiftechs alternative (although I actually prefer the block and radiator that EK uses, as well as the tubing).

AS for fixed hose lengths... all AIOs have that, and the only real solution to that is to either buy a kit or go custom.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> And you're allowed to do so. Still EKWB is probably the supplier with the most "complete" supply of available blocks fir more or less anything. There are absolutely stuff I don't like about them and things that could be better, but that doesn't mean I can just ignore the advantage of this service. Just like I should not ignore the fact that the AIO may not be as good as Swiftechs alternative (although I actually prefer the block and radiator that EK uses, as well as the tubing).
> 
> AS for fixed hose lengths... all AIOs have that, and the only real solution to that is to either buy a kit or go custom.


Or cut your tubing to the proper lengths when you add the GPU block of your choice......or when you add dye.....or just because you don't want your rig to look "one size fits none" or like you have a CLC in there when you have an open loop. You absolutely do not need to "buy a kit or go custom" to not have your case look a mess. _That_ is one huge advantages of both the Swiftech and EK.


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Or cut your tubing to the proper lengths when you add the GPU block of your choice......or when you add dye.....or just because you don't want your rig to look "one size fits none" or like you have a CLC in there when you have an open loop. You absolutely do not need to "buy a kit or go custom" to not have your case look a mess. _That_ is one huge advantages of both the Swiftech and EK.


Sure, but that actually relies on you disassembling the unit and refilling it. While the Predator has its downsides it reaches a middle ground between the performance of a custom loop/kit and the "no hassle" approach of a CLC. My argument about a kit or a custom loop is valid in the point that if you are first going to disassemble it, why the hell would you even want to bother with an AIO to start with. The only and I mean the only real use of an AIO that you would have to assemble and maintain like a regular loop is if you are tight on space. In that case I could totally agree to getting one over a simple kit.

As for what one actually should go for... It all depends on what the budget is and the amount of work you as an individual is willing to put in to it. The Predator is far closer to how a CLC works in the sense that everything is ready to use and you don't have to worry about anything wile assembling it. A lot of people don't actually want to do all the filling and so on themselves, and in those cases the Predator is brilliant. If you start fiddling with tube lengths and so on with the Predator, you might as well have bought yourself a kit to start with.


----------



## BinaryBummer

My point is that I don't want a complicated system to have to maintain, thus my reason for a AIO. Sure I would like to run 5Ghz, but I don't need a cork sniffer mod to enjoy what i do. I love all the tecnical coolness of building and modifying but i am a bit past that point in life and I don't have the funds to chance a screw up in such a mod.

I do not' want to void warranties for removing factory GPU coolers and so forth. My old Asetek LC120 has been kicking since 2010 but this is more processor then the I7 920 was. I could put it in but I can't find a mount for it. The cost of ordering one isn't worth my time so I would rather just buy something more current.

I agree with that a step up of being able to add on to the cooler is all great, but then it is all the fittings (alloy types) vs what type of cooling solution you add, and pump capabilities to push and returns to reservoirs and so forth of bleeding air out ....


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BinaryBummer*
> 
> My point is that I don't want a complicated system to have to maintain, thus my reason for a AIO. Sure I would like to run 5Ghz, but I don't need a cork sniffer mod to enjoy what i do. I love all the tecnical coolness of building and modifying but i am a bit past that point in life and I don't have the funds to chance a screw up in such a mod.
> 
> I do not' want to void warranties for removing factory GPU coolers and so forth. My old Asetek LC120 has been kicking since 2010 but this is more processor then the I7 920 was. I could put it in but I can't find a mount for it. The cost of ordering one isn't worth my time so I would rather just buy something more current.
> 
> I agree with that a step up of being able to add on to the cooler is all great, but then it is all the fittings (alloy types) vs what type of cooling solution you add, and pump capabilities to push and returns to reservoirs and so forth of bleeding air out ....


It's not just about adding, modifying, etc. That isn't a necessity, it is an option. The step up is *better performance with significantly lower noise*.....which is the draw of liquid cooling in the first place. CLCs are the polar opposite of liquid cooling, the performance is no better than air, it is the loudest of all possible solutions, and costs more than air and within a few dollars of the Swiftechs. So, you are a few dollars difference from the best of all worlds and the worst of all worlds, with air sitting in between them at a lower price point and with better reliability.

In other words, get a Swiftech H220-X2 or Ek Predator, slap it in the way it comes out of the box and be done with it.


----------



## jassilamba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BinaryBummer*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> My point is that I don't want a complicated system to have to maintain, thus my reason for a AIO. Sure I would like to run 5Ghz, but I don't need a cork sniffer mod to enjoy what i do. I love all the tecnical coolness of building and modifying but i am a bit past that point in life and I don't have the funds to chance a screw up in such a mod.
> 
> I do not' want to void warranties for removing factory GPU coolers and so forth. My old Asetek LC120 has been kicking since 2010 but this is more processor then the I7 920 was. I could put it in but I can't find a mount for it. The cost of ordering one isn't worth my time so I would rather just buy something more current.
> 
> I agree with that a step up of being able to add on to the cooler is all great, but then it is all the fittings (alloy types) vs what type of cooling solution you add, and pump capabilities to push and returns to reservoirs and so forth of bleeding air out ....


Run whatever you are comfortable in, and what ever you like is what I would recommend. We as a community can keep going back and forth about what cooler to use and what not. Fact is it's you who has to look at it every day, and live with it.

For those who know me, know that I run custom loops in most my review builds, but my daily driver is running on a H60.... Why? Cos I kinda go for the lowest common factor, and almost all cases have a 120 fan mount that can hold a 120 AIO or CLC. This way my build be it in the Evolv ITX or regular Evolv never has cooling issues, and I never remove the CPU cooler (yes I'm that lazy).

PS: I change hardware more often than clothes sometimes


----------



## paskowitz

IMO AIOs make the most sense on GPUs. The price increase is minimal (see EVGA FTW VS Hybrid) but the noise/temp reduction at load is huge. Not to mention with half a brain, you can ensure hot GPU air doesn't spill over to your CPU cooler. This only becomes more true as the case gets smaller.


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> IMO AIOs make the most sense on GPUs. The price increase is minimal (see EVGA FTW VS Hybrid) but the noise/temp reduction at load is huge. Not to mention with half a brain, you can ensure hot GPU air doesn't spill over to your CPU cooler. This only becomes more true as the case gets smaller.


On GPUs the jump is immense, and it's not without reason that "the mod" has been adopted by so many retailers the last couple of years. On a CPU however, @ciarlatano emphasises the point quite well. They are noisy and Honestly don't perform better than air. So If you want to cool a GPU without having to maintain an open loop, you have 3 options as far as I see.

Either getting something like the Corsair HG-10 or Kraken G10 with an AIO or get a card with an AIO already mounted.
Get a full cover block pre filled from EK to incorporate in to an existing Predator loop.
Either go for a card with a really good air cooler on it or live with the stock one. There is also the option of other alternatives, but it's mostly the fans that make or break the GPU coolers.
CPU is a different matter entirely though, and while getting a CLC is a decent option you get more for your money by investing in a really good air cooler like the be quiet Dark Rock 3 or Noctua NH-D15. If space is an issue (such as in an HTPC itx build) then I can see a 120mm CLC being a better choice than the other low profile alternatives. Here though a Swiftech H140/H220/H320 or a EKWB Predator would likely be the best bet for a hassle free build.

In the end though @jassilamba is entirelly correct, you run what YOU want to run. After all it's your PC and it's you that have to deal with it every day and not us, so getting what you personally think will be best will probably be the best choice.


----------



## TeslaHUN

If you guys have airflow / tempproblems in Evolv case, consider to do this : 



 .It helps a lot


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TeslaHUN*
> 
> If you guys have airflow / tempproblems in Evolv case, consider to do this :
> 
> 
> 
> .It helps a lot


This has been covered here several times with a much more attractive end result. The finished product in the video is hideous.


----------



## jassilamba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> This has been covered here several times with a much more attractive end result. The finished product in the video is hideous.


Agreed. Personally if you ask me, the Evolv is not a case for those who want great temps on air (get the Pro M for that). For me the Evolv is really beautiful lady that you need to accept as is, and not try to make any changes to her.

Plus if you ever need more airflow for some reason or you have been gaming for a while... just take the front panel off for a while, and slap it back on on once you are done lol.


----------



## pez

If it wasn't such a drastic difference, it'd be better. Like possibly flushing it out a bit...but that 1-1.5" of space...bleh.


----------



## BinaryBummer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> This has been covered here several times with a much more attractive end result. The finished product in the video is hideous.


As this video showed the foam is a rather weak point, I would opt to by some metal spacers that way you remove the blockage that the foam impedes. Small but logical.

What would be cooler is making a hydraulic or motorized system that would extend that front panel outward when CPU temps increase.


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TeslaHUN*
> 
> If you guys have airflow / tempproblems in Evolv case, consider to do this :
> 
> 
> 
> .It helps a lot


"The Evolv is so beautiful, let's make it ugly." You only need to increase the front distance by like .5 inch. .5*large #*large # = big volume improvement.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> "The Evolv is so beautiful, let's make it ugly." You only need to increase the front distance by like .5 inch. .5*large #*large # = big volume improvement.


I think @doyll actually measured it out. Spacing it out just so that the front panel sits flush increases the intake area by a tremendous amount. No need to have the front sticking out. It looks ridiculous.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BinaryBummer*
> 
> As this video showed the foam is a rather weak point, I would opt to by some metal spacers that way you remove the blockage that the foam impedes. Small but logical.
> 
> What would be cooler is making a hydraulic or motorized system that would extend that front panel outward when CPU temps increase.


The original poster who showed this simply used longer screws and washers. Much cleaner and easier.

I love the hydraulic/motorized idea.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> On GPUs the jump is immense, and it's not without reason that "the mod" has been adopted by so many retailers the last couple of years.


"The mod"? Wasn't it officially renamed "the teen ghetto rig that looks horrid and doesn't cool your VRM"?

Please....mfg hooked onto doing this purely for profit. No other reason. All this "look at me! I liquid cool my rig!" when you get none of the benefits of liquid cooling is a joke.


----------



## PureBlackFire

*Enthoo Luxe Tempered Glass*



Quote:


> The Enthoo Luxe Tempered Glass will be available in two colors, Satin Black and Anthracite Grey.
> 
> The new Enthoo Luxe Tempered Glass features a sand-blasted aluminum panels, clean interior, and ambient lighting with LED control. The Enthoo Luxe Tempered Glass will be equipped with 4x Phanteks Premium 140mm fans, PWM hub, 2x SSD bracket.


----------



## jassilamba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PureBlackFire*
> 
> *Enthoo Luxe Tempered Glass*
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I'm waiting for my new mobo and the second Strix 1070 to come in so I can start on my Luxe TG build/review.


----------



## themightyvoice

Neat. They don't even have the case listed on the phanteksusa site yet.
I was able to find it listed on their main site, though


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> "The mod"? Wasn't it officially renamed "the teen ghetto rig that looks horrid and doesn't cool your VRM"?
> 
> Please....mfg hooked onto doing this purely for profit. No other reason. All this "look at me! I liquid cool my rig!" when you get none of the benefits of liquid cooling is a joke.


Except you clearly do get significantly improved temps from stock, the numbers don't lie on that front. As for VRM cooling... that's and issue for anyone cooling a graphics card, and I always emphasise the point of having a good handle on that while using a CLC (just as you would when using a universal block on your GPU). If done correctly the VRM temps are quite a bit better than stock, although they will never reach the level of a full cover block.

Still, a simple 120mm CLC will improve GPU temps immensely on most cards so simply ignoring that fact is just out right stupid. It's far from ideal, but it presents a good option for cooling the card significantly better than stock while still not having to maintain the thing.


----------



## koniu777

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *themightyvoice*
> 
> Neat. They don't even have the case listed on the phanteksusa site yet.
> I was able to find it listed on their main site, though


Great find, and that tempered glass is on a hinge!

Sent from my SM-N930V using Tapatalk


----------



## dlewbell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PureBlackFire*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Enthoo Luxe TG
> 
> 
> 
> *Enthoo Luxe Tempered Glass*


That's beautiful. So, who wants to buy my Luxe?
Nice to see that they dropped the PH-F200SP for a pair of PH-F140SP PH-F140MP fans like the rest of us have been doing all along. The hinged panel is much nicer, though it looks like retrofitting it to the original case is unlikely. They actually made the slot for the 140mm rear exhaust shorter to accommodate the hinge. You'd need to replace the back panel & front column on the window side to allow for installation. The only other change appears to be the relocation of the SSD brackets to the panel above the Phanteks logo on the windowed side. I'm not sure how I feel about that change. I think I actually prefer the cleaner look of that panel from the original Luxe.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> Except you clearly do get significantly improved temps from stock, the numbers don't lie on that front. As for VRM cooling... that's and issue for anyone cooling a graphics card, and I always emphasise the point of having a good handle on that while using a CLC (just as you would when using a universal block on your GPU). If done correctly the VRM temps are quite a bit better than stock, although they will never reach the level of a full cover block.
> 
> Still, a simple 120mm CLC will improve GPU temps immensely on most cards so simply ignoring that fact is just out right stupid. It's far from ideal, but it presents a good option for cooling the card significantly better than stock while still not having to maintain the thing.










The point is that it *doesn't* cool the *card*. It cools the GPU only. While it does that completely singular aspect well (even though it looks horrible), it's the most myopic solution possible. It is like removing all of the heatsinks on your MB to OC your CPU.

If you are going to liquid cool your GPU.....then do it right. These half baked solutions are a joke.

This is OT, and I am not going any further.


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dlewbell*
> 
> That's beautiful. So, who wants to buy my Luxe?
> Nice to see that they dropped the PH-F200SP for a pair of PH-F140SP fans like the rest of us have been doing all along. The hinged panel is much nicer, though it looks like retrofitting it to the original case is unlikely. They actually made the slot for the 140mm rear exhaust shorter to accommodate the hinge. You'd need to replace the back panel & front column on the window side to allow for installation. The only other change appears to be the relocation of the SSD brackets to the panel above the Phanteks logo on the windowed side. I'm not sure how I feel about that change. I think I actually prefer the cleaner look of that panel from the original Luxe.


like the panel being on hinges. looks like it comes with 140 MP fans from the pics. pity, I like the 140SP better. they're quieter and move more air. and yea, I prefer the drives to go behind the panel. but I hope they will ship with the dual SSD brackets. just 2 dedicated mounts is pretty skimpy, especially with budget cases coming with more than that these days.


----------



## dlewbell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PureBlackFire*
> 
> like the panel being on hinges. looks like it comes with 140 MP fans from the pics. pity, I like the 140SP better. they're quieter and move more air. and yea, I prefer the drives to go behind the panel. but I hope they will ship with the dual SSD brackets. just 2 dedicated mounts is pretty skimpy, especially with budget cases coming with more than that these days.


You're right. I didn't even catch that they switched from SP to MP fans. I edited my post to note that.
The SSD brackets in the picture actually look like a totally new design. The original single SSD brackets didn't have the folded tabs in the middle, but the ones pictured don't have a second set of holes like the double SSD brackets. Maybe they've redesigned the single brackets.


----------



## smithydan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PureBlackFire*
> 
> like the panel being on hinges


Yes they are but should have appeared on the evolv atx.


----------



## .theMetal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TeslaHUN*
> 
> If you guys have airflow / tempproblems in Evolv case, consider to do this :
> 
> 
> 
> .It helps a lot


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> "The Evolv is so beautiful, let's make it ugly." You only need to increase the front distance by like .5 inch. .5*large #*large # = big volume improvement.
> 
> 
> 
> I think @doyll actually measured it out. Spacing it out just so that the front panel sits flush increases the intake area by a tremendous amount. No need to have the front sticking out. It looks ridiculous.
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *BinaryBummer*
> 
> As this video showed the foam is a rather weak point, I would opt to by some metal spacers that way you remove the blockage that the foam impedes. Small but logical.
> 
> What would be cooler is making a hydraulic or motorized system that would extend that front panel outward when CPU temps increase.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> The original poster who showed this simply used longer screws and washers. Much cleaner and easier.
Click to expand...

Was reading this all earlier, and watched the video, I got inspired (even though did look really bad). This is what I came up with:

Found some spare motherboard standoffs from an old case, they are the same thread as the pegs for the Evolve (at least my ITX)



You can see here the left is the original, the right is extended:





I think it looks much less obscene than the one in the video, and it keeps a fairly stock look. Didn't have to buy anything either.


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *.theMetal*
> 
> Was reading this all earlier, and watched the video, I got inspired (even though did look really bad). This is what I came up with:
> 
> Found some spare motherboard standoffs from an old case, they are the same thread as the pegs for the Evolve (at least my ITX)
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can see here the left is the original, the right is extended:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think it looks much less obscene than the one in the video, and it keeps a fairly stock look. Didn't have to buy anything either.


That came out really well, you can hardly tell that you changed it. Make much difference on your temps?


----------



## .theMetal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rfarmer*
> 
> That came out really well, you can hardly tell that you changed it. Make much difference on your temps?


Unfortunately I got home and immediately started tinkering so I don't have any pre testing that isn't from the dead of summer here. I also don't have a nice indoor/outdoor thermometer to test internal temps.

But I did run some tests just to see how it was running at the present ( about 70f in the house now ):

Here is a Valley run (CPU and SYS fans are the same as in the bottom pic):


And here is a few prime 95 passes just to get the processor nice and warm.


I need to mess with the fan curve of the gpu a bit, but I really like that I can't hear it. It does get to throttle temp usually though, I probably need to re-apply the paste.


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *.theMetal*
> 
> Unfortunately I got home and immediately started tinkering so I don't have any pre testing that isn't from the dead of summer here. I also don't have a nice indoor/outdoor thermometer to test internal temps.
> 
> But I did run some tests just to see how it was running at the present ( about 70f in the house now ):
> 
> Here is a Valley run (CPU and SYS fans are the same as in the bottom pic):
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is a few prime 95 passes just to get the processor nice and warm.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I need to mess with the fan curve of the gpu a bit, but I really like that I can't hear it. It does get to throttle temp usually though, I probably need to re-apply the paste.


Not bad, you can live with those temps. Not sure how much that will improve your airflow but you know it has to help.


----------



## .theMetal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rfarmer*
> 
> Not bad, you can live with those temps. Not sure how much that will improve your airflow but you know it has to help.


It does well for an old, hot ivy i5, what I like is I don't hear any fans gaining speed to keep up with the heat.


----------



## Kajel

I finished my top panel mod on the Evolv ATX.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kajel*
> 
> I finished my top panel mod on the Evolv ATX.


nice job that looks good...


----------



## Testing12

Looks like the Pro M Tempered Glass version is a reality:


----------



## dlewbell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Testing12*
> 
> Looks like the Pro M Tempered Glass version is a reality:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Video


It's actually been available through CyberPowerPC, & likely other builders for at least a month now. It's just been strangely missing from the consumer market.


----------



## Faster_is_better

*Factory* tempered glass Primo doors next?









Actually they probably wouldn't do it how I want anyway... just have to mod it


----------



## jassilamba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Faster_is_better*
> 
> *Factory* tempered glass Primo doors next?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Actually they probably wouldn't do it how I want anyway... just have to mod it


Wouldn't surprise me. I honestly want them to update the original Evolv, or come out with a new mATX case.

Also I hope the primo gets a nice hinged glass panel.


----------



## Gustavss14

Can you install a EK RES X3 400ml on the reservoir mount in the Phanteks enthoo primo? Lenghtwise i have room for it, because i only run top radiator in pull. But does the mount support it?


----------



## pez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *themightyvoice*
> 
> Neat. They don't even have the case listed on the phanteksusa site yet.
> I was able to find it listed on their main site, though


PhanteksUSA site and support seems to be of lesser quality than the UK support. I mean I somewhat get it, but it's a bit disheartening. I mean....we are technically still missing the option to buy the TG panel for the Pro M. I don't even have the case anymore, but good lord.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PureBlackFire*
> 
> like the panel being on hinges. looks like it comes with 140 MP fans from the pics. pity, I like the 140SP better. they're quieter and move more air. and yea, I prefer the drives to go behind the panel. but I hope they will ship with the dual SSD brackets. just 2 dedicated mounts is pretty skimpy, especially with budget cases coming with more than that these days.


I don't have any meaningful comparison to make, but the MP IMO has a better sound profile than the SP. The 120MPs at full tilt are significantly more pleasant sounding than the 140SPs were at full tilt.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *.theMetal*
> 
> Was reading this all earlier, and watched the video, I got inspired (even though did look really bad). This is what I came up with:
> 
> Found some spare motherboard standoffs from an old case, they are the same thread as the pegs for the Evolve (at least my ITX)
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can see here the left is the original, the right is extended:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think it looks much less obscene than the one in the video, and it keeps a fairly stock look. Didn't have to buy anything either.


Whoa! This turned out amazing. A very clever idea to use mobo standoffs. *sigh* I want to do this for my GFs rig now.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pez*
> 
> PhanteksUSA site and support seems to be of lesser quality than the UK support. I mean I somewhat get it, but it's a bit disheartening. I mean....we are technically still missing the option to buy the TG panel for the Pro M. I don't even have the case anymore, but good lord.
> I don't have any meaningful comparison to make, but the MP IMO has a better sound profile than the SP. The 120MPs at full tilt are significantly more pleasant sounding than the 140SPs were at full tilt.
> Whoa! This turned out amazing. A very clever idea to use mobo standoffs. *sigh* I want to do this for my GFs rig now.


Phanteks.com is international, not UK. I think their main offices are in Rotterdam the Netherlands.

PH-F120MP and PH-F140MP are not same sound or performance .. obviously because of size difference. Some think 120MP is mo' betta' than other 120mm fans, but that 140MP not as much. geggeg who does Thermalbench reveiw site shows them both being quite good .. and I agree with him. I'm using the PH-F140HP_II (same fan as PH-F140MP in round frame) on my cooler and find it very nice. I've played with PH-F120MP on H80 cough, puke, choke radiator and found them quite good. Playing with PH-F140MP on Cryorig A80 were also impressive.


----------



## owcraftsman

*Phanteks Announces the Eclipse P400 and P400S Tempered Glass*

Press Release by
btarunr
Thursday, October 20th 2016 06:08 Discuss (1 Comment)
Phanteks, the award-winning case manufacturer, is excited to announced the availability of the new Eclipse P400 and P400S Tempered Glass. The Eclipse P400 and P400S Tempered Glass Editions will feature a full tempered glass side panel and will introduce two brand new Special Edition colors. The Eclipse P400 and P400S Tempered Glass Editions will be available in Satin Black, White, and Anthracite Grey. In addition to the standard colors, the Eclipse P400 and P400S Tempered Glass will also introduce two Special Edition colors, Black/Red and Black/White.

The Eclipse Series P400 and P400S Tempered Glass Editions are compact mid-towers that are easy for beginning PC builders that wants to create a clean and beautiful build. The P400 Tempered Glass Edition features a full metal exterior, RGB lighting system with color control, 1x RGB LED strip, removable dust filters, front all-in-one radiator mounting location, power supply shroud, 2x 120 mm fans. While the P400S Tempered Glass Edition adds in the soundproofing layers and integrated 3-speed fan controller to the list of features included in the P400 model. The budget-friendly case now has a premium feel and look. With the full tempered glass side panel, enthusiasts can now showcase their system.
 

*Pricing and Availability*

Both cases available at most retailers from November, 2016.
PH-EC416PTG_BK/WT/AG/BR/BW (P400) - €79.90 / £69.99
PH-EC416PSTG_BK/WT/AG/BR/BW (P400S) - €89.90 / £76.99


----------



## Necrodox

Alrighty, I'm downsizing from an 800D to a Phantek Enthoo Evolv TG. It'll be a water cooled build and I plan on sticking a thick 360 rad in the front, however this will kill the possibility of using HDD's in my build. Are there alternate locations to potentially mount two traditional beefy harddrives?

Additionally my current build utilizies an old Swiftech pump from 2011 (thing runs like a champ!). The model is: Swiftech MCP655TM, does anyone have insight on how this sits inside of the case? Particularly in the PSU shroud area.

Because of the tighter working space I'm trying to decide on a pump + reservoir combo, this will likely be my biggest obstacle.

Thanks in advance.


----------



## jassilamba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Necrodox*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Alrighty, I'm downsizing from an 800D to a Phantek Enthoo Evolv TG. It'll be a water cooled build and I plan on sticking a thick 360 rad in the front, however this will kill the possibility of using HDD's in my build. Are there alternate locations to potentially mount two traditional beefy harddrives?
> 
> Additionally my current build utilizies an old Swiftech pump from 2011 (thing runs like a champ!). The model is: Swiftech MCP655TM, does anyone have insight on how this sits inside of the case? Particularly in the PSU shroud area.
> 
> Because of the tighter working space I'm trying to decide on a pump + reservoir combo, this will likely be my biggest obstacle.
> 
> Thanks in advance
> 
> 
> .


How about mounting a 360 rad in the top?

I did that in my review build, still had plenty of room to hold 2 HDDs, and could have used a talled pump res combo.

Link to review build - http://themodzoo.com/2016/09/phanteks-evolv-atx-tempered-glass-review/


----------



## pez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Phanteks.com is international, not UK. I think their main offices are in Rotterdam the Netherlands.
> 
> PH-F120MP and PH-F140MP are not same sound or performance .. obviously because of size difference. Some think 120MP is mo' betta' than other 120mm fans, but that 140MP not as much. geggeg who does Thermalbench reveiw site shows them both being quite good .. and I agree with him. I'm using the PH-F140HP_II (same fan as PH-F140MP in round frame) on my cooler and find it very nice. I've played with PH-F120MP on H80 cough, puke, choke radiator and found them quite good. Playing with PH-F140MP on Cryorig A80 were also impressive.


Ah...not sure why I thought they were UK-based. But yeah....the USA support could be better. I'm loving the MP's in the Ncase







.


----------



## Necrodox

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jassilamba*
> 
> How about mounting a 360 rad in the top?
> 
> I did that in my review build, still had plenty of room to hold 2 HDDs, and could have used a talled pump res combo.
> 
> Link to review build - http://themodzoo.com/2016/09/phanteks-evolv-atx-tempered-glass-review/


I'm trying to utilize a thick 360 radiator, it seems to be consensus that a thick 360 doesn't fit well up top. Based on some pictures I tend to agree with this. Worst case scenario I can fab up some custom mount brackets and find some holes in the rear of the case. The case will be here on Monday so I'll take some measurements, worst case scenario I return it for another case.

If the latter isn't practical I might need to switch on over to a thin 360 radiator but I'll leave that as a last resort.


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Necrodox*
> 
> I'm trying to utilize a thick 360 radiator, it seems to be consensus that a thick 360 doesn't fit well up top. Based on some pictures I tend to agree with this. Worst case scenario I can fab up some custom mount brackets and find some holes in the rear of the case. The case will be here on Monday so I'll take some measurements, worst case scenario I return it for another case.
> 
> If the latter isn't practical I might need to switch on over to a thin 360 radiator but I'll leave that as a last resort.


Well, there is the one HDD mount in the middle of the PSU shroud (tray is sold separately by Phanteks). It is possible to attach an HDD upside down on the PSU shroud, but I think modding a bracket to put the second drive on top middle position would be easiest. I would glue some foam pads to the bottom and top, and just sandwich it in there. Then use the screw holes to mount a plate to hold the two drives together.


----------



## jassilamba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Necrodox*
> 
> I'm trying to utilize a thick 360 radiator, it seems to be consensus that a thick 360 doesn't fit well up top. Based on some pictures I tend to agree with this. Worst case scenario I can fab up some custom mount brackets and find some holes in the rear of the case. The case will be here on Monday so I'll take some measurements, worst case scenario I return it for another case.
> 
> If the latter isn't practical I might need to switch on over to a thin 360 radiator but I'll leave that as a last resort.


I hear ya on wanting to use a thicker rad. I wish the Evolv was just a little bit taller, or had a factory way to mount the fans/rad directly to top panel.
Depending on the PSU that you are using, you could have a 360 rad in the front, and figure out a way to stuff some HDDs between the PSU and the radiator in the front.


----------



## Necrodox

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> Well, there is the one HDD mount in the middle of the PSU shroud (tray is sold separately by Phanteks). It is possible to attach an HDD upside down on the PSU shroud, but I think modding a bracket to put the second drive on top middle position would be easiest. I would glue some foam pads to the bottom and top, and just sandwich it in there. Then use the screw holes to mount a plate to hold the two drives together.


Sounds like there is definitely some wiggle room, that might be the move. Thanks for the info bud!


----------



## Necrodox

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jassilamba*
> 
> I hear ya on wanting to use a thicker rad. I wish the Evolv was just a little bit taller, or had a factory way to mount the fans/rad directly to top panel.
> Depending on the PSU that you are using, you could have a 360 rad in the front, and figure out a way to stuff some HDDs between the PSU and the radiator in the front.


Yeah that's the route I think I'll be going.

As of right now my biggest concern is simply fitting the reservoir and pump in a reasonable location. The thick rad would be ideal but it seems a majority of my problems occur with the thick rad. Maybe a thin 360 + 240 up front.

I currently have a thick quad rad + thick triple rad in a loop so this transition is very unusual for me hahaha.


----------



## smithydan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Necrodox*
> 
> Yeah that's the route I think I'll be going.
> 
> As of right now my biggest concern is simply fitting the reservoir and pump in a reasonable location. The thick rad would be ideal but it seems a majority of my problems occur with the thick rad. Maybe a thin 360 + 240 up front.
> 
> I currently have a thick quad rad + thick triple rad in a loop so this transition is very unusual for me hahaha.


Depending on which pump you have, people have mounted pump/res combo in the rear of the case as there is room for it.

Also you can modify the case to accept HDD behind the plate for HDDs and pump/res mounting.



http://imgur.com/txYtB


----------



## Necrodox

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smithydan*
> 
> Depending on which pump you have, people have mounted pump/res combo in the rear of the case as there is room for it.
> 
> Also you can modify the case to accept HDD behind the plate for HDDs and pump/res mounting.
> 
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/txYtB


Maybe I take back what I said prior, the triple rad in this case looks nice! I might have some options here.







Thanks for the pics bud!

By chance do you have any other nice Phantek watercool builds floating around? Love checking these out for inspiration.


----------



## CobraPlissken

checkout phantek cases with pcpartpicker complete builds. There are some pictures. Or google


----------



## .theMetal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pez*
> 
> Whoa! This turned out amazing. A very clever idea to use mobo standoffs. *sigh* I want to do this for my GFs rig now.


Thanks! I say go for it, just sneak them on there, no one will know but you. Until she see's it.


----------



## smithydan




----------



## paskowitz

TEMPERED GLASS and RGB ALL THE THINGS! Not complaining, just sayin. IMO Phanteks has a phenomenal case lineup ATM.


----------



## jassilamba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> TEMPERED GLASS and RGB ALL THE THINGS! Not complaining, just sayin. IMO Phanteks has a phenomenal case lineup ATM.


Agreed, and very aggressive price points on all their cases. The P400 line is starting at $79 with a tempered glass, and $89 for the S version. I'm now waiting for them to do something to the original Evolv as I have a mATX board that needs a new house lol.


----------



## CobraPlissken

@jassilamba: Oh i would like to know if phanteks does something to the evolv line.
Is there something where we can expect phanteks to show up and surprise us in some time this year?
I feel like i should not buy a evolv now. =.=


----------



## jassilamba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CobraPlissken*
> 
> @jassilamba: Oh i would like to know if phanteks does something to the evolv line.
> Is there something where we can expect phanteks to show up and surprise us in some time this year?
> I feel like i should not buy a evolv now. =.=


With CES around the corner, I hear ya. I'm gonna put in a case to Phanteks to have a High Air Flow version of the Evolv line up. Also the next BIG case coming from them is the Elite, so my guess would be that the team is busy getting that ready. Also for some weird reason, I would like to see a Full Tower version of the Evolv so that people like me who like to stuff our cases with radiators would be happy.


----------



## CobraPlissken

Ye i will wait for the CES 2. But because phanteks releases all this TG editions i thought something is going on already.

Better Airflow evolv would be great. Cant wait for that. And ofc the enthoo elite, but i guess its to expensive and to big for me







.


----------



## PureBlackFire

this P400 glass has to be like $80 right? any more than that and i don't see how it has any appeal. the pro M glass is gonna be $90 or $100. can't be costing the same price.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PureBlackFire*
> 
> this P400 glass has to be like $80 right? any more than that and i don't see how it has any appeal. the pro M glass is gonna be $90 or $100. can't be costing the same price.


The price I saw was announced $79, so you are right on the money.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jassilamba*
> 
> Agreed, and very aggressive price points on all their cases. The P400 line is starting at $79 with a tempered glass, and $89 for the S version. I'm now waiting for them to do something to the original Evolv as I have a mATX board that needs a new house lol.


The value aspect of the Phanteks line is phenomenal. When you look at the other cases at given price points, Phanteks just gives you so much more.


----------



## paskowitz

Things I would like to see in a new Evolv... in no particular order

Move bottom HDD trays to middle of PSU shroud (choose between pump and HDDs)
Radiator/fan mounts with less obstruction (high strength steel)
Increase clearance for front and top radiators by growing the length and height of the case by 1 inch (true dual 45mm thick or less 360mm support)
Modular high airflow top similar to Fractal Design but aluminum and matching finishes! Small panel gaps. (vented option and solid option, top is still removable)
Default/solid top has larger front/back openings, less restrictive mesh
Ditch the top radiator tray in favor of a rigged system with EASILY accessible screws. Slightly higher than the current position. Braces in a triangle pattern.
No glass panel on the back side (or make it optional)
No flip up front IO cover, integrated into front aesthetic to save space.
Cleaner aesthetic on front HDD pass through area (plastic "Phanteks" pass throughs for HDDs)
PSU shroud vents are lines not holes
Pre punched water cooling pass throughs (top rear, PSU shroud, bottom right side of the mobo wall)
One new finish. Pure white or midnight blue.


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> Things I would like to see in a new Evolv... in no particular order
> 
> Move bottom HDD trays to middle of PSU shroud (choose between pump and HDDs)
> Radiator/fan mounts with less obstruction (high strength steel)
> Increase clearance for front and top radiators by growing the length and height of the case by 1 inch (true dual 45mm thick or less 360mm support)
> Modular high airflow top similar to Fractal Design but aluminum and matching finishes! Small panel gaps. (vented option and solid option, top is still removable)
> Default/solid top has larger front/back openings, less restrictive mesh
> Ditch the top radiator tray in favor of a rigged system with EASILY accessible screws. Slightly higher than the current position. Braces in a triangle pattern.
> No glass panel on the back side (or make it optional)
> No flip up front IO cover, integrated into front aesthetic to save space.
> Cleaner aesthetic on front HDD pass through area (plastic "Phanteks" pass throughs for HDDs)
> PSU shroud vents are lines not holes
> Pre punched water cooling pass throughs (top rear, PSU shroud, bottom right side of the mobo wall)
> One new finish. Pure white or midnight blue.


I'd like to see a black chrome color on this case. i think pure white and midnight blue would look better on the P400. they should skin up a P600 using the frame of the Pro M and Evolv ATX IMO.


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PureBlackFire*
> 
> I'd like to see a black chrome color on this case. i think pure white and midnight blue would look better on the P400. they should skin up a P600 using the frame of the Pro M and Evolv ATX IMO.


I think it would be pretty hard to get a quality black chrome finish as real chrome would not be possible. I think something like a starlight black would be a little easier.

I do like the idea of a P600 though. Pricing in relation to other models would have to be figured out though.

My ideal finish...




Ok... maybe not $15,000 quality... but the same black to dark grey with a bit of fleck.


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *PureBlackFire*
> 
> I'd like to see a black chrome color on this case. i think pure white and midnight blue would look better on the P400. they should skin up a P600 using the frame of the Pro M and Evolv ATX IMO.
> 
> 
> 
> I think it would be pretty hard to get a quality black chrome finish as real chrome would not be possible. I think something like a starlight black would be a little easier.
> 
> I do like the idea of a P600 though. Pricing in relation to other models would have to be figured out though.
> 
> My ideal finish...
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok... maybe not $15,000 quality... but the same black to dark grey with a bit of fleck.
Click to expand...

yes, that is a great color too. as for the hypothetical P600, I think the same price as the Pro M glass ($99.99) makes sense. call it "P600 s" and have it be a direct competitor to cases like the Define R5 and H440. I feel it's time to discontinue and revise the Enthoo Pro and Luxe (bad timing with that as they just dropped the Luxe TG) along with some adjustments to price and positioning for both.


----------



## PureBlackFire

review for the Luxe TG up.


----------



## paskowitz

Nice, they added a swivel door. Add that to my list for the Evolv.


----------



## krutoydiesel

Finished my build in this beautiful case.

*Having slight temperature issues due to the restriction up top, any tips on this?*. I also did the fan mod where it fits on top of the rad.




Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *krutoydiesel*
> 
> Finished my build in this beautiful case.
> 
> *Having slight temperature issues due to the restriction up top, any tips on this?*. I also did the fan mod where it fits on top of the rad.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Welp... putting the fans on the top of the rad doesn't help. It does look cleaner but you kill the airflow (especially if you have them as pull in your config. You get back draft where the air goes back through the fan and rad... which is bad.) Second, rest the top on its clips (IE don't push all the way down). Third, make sure you seal off the areas on the radiator bracket that have no rad. This prevents the air from recirculating back into the case. If your top fans are in pull, I would set the top back fan to intake. If they are push, leave'em.

This is my config...


----------



## krutoydiesel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> Welp... putting the fans on the top of the rad doesn't help. It does look cleaner but you kill the airflow (especially if you have them as pull in your config. You get back draft where the air goes back through the fan and rad... which is bad.) Second, rest the top on its clips (IE don't push all the way down). Third, make sure you seal off the areas on the radiator bracket that have no rad. This prevents the air from recirculating back into the case. If your top fans are in pull, I would set the top back fan to intake. If they are push, leave'em.
> 
> This is my config...
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Yeah I just might put the fans in push exhaust, they don't look too bad. Or I might put them as push intake.

My rear fan is set as exhaust.


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *krutoydiesel*
> 
> Yeah I just might put the fans in push exhaust, they don't look too bad. Or I might put them as push intake.
> 
> My rear fan is set as exhaust.


If you do top push exhaust, I would advise switching the rear fan to intake. I noticed helped my water temp by about 1-2c. When I did it I could tell the left side of my top radiator was exhausting cooler air than it was before.

From the other thread:
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *krutoydiesel*
> 
> I finished the case swap. This is one good looking case.
> 
> Anyone having any issues with temps?
> 
> 70 max temp on my 4790k
> 50 max temp on my 980ti


Those temps aren't too high... just a bit. I assume you are talking stock, not overclocked? Ambient?

I have a delid 4790K with a Watercool Heatkiller Pro IV (not pictured above) so my CPU temps are about 15c cooler (max temp stock). My 980 Ti Classy is about 5c cooler (max temp stock). Not to mention I have my top on the clips and my front panel resting on its mount as well. I bet you would see at least 5c improvement just from adjusting the top and front panels and swapping the fans. Also, our ambient temps could be totally different.

Overclocked, my CPU (4.8Ghz/1.32v) goes to about 60C, my GPU (1535/8100Mhz/1.23v) goes to about 53c. My water temps don't usually go above 35c (fans sub 1200rpm). If I fully stress my system, overclocked, in something like [email protected] or AIDA64 my temps would be higher (+5c for the CPU/GPU, +3c for water).


----------



## krutoydiesel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> If you do top push exhaust, I would advise switching the rear fan to intake. I noticed helped my water temp by about 1-2c. When I did it I could tell the left side of my top radiator was exhausting cooler air than it was before.
> 
> From the other thread:
> Those temps aren't too high... just a bit. I assume you are talking stock, not overclocked? Ambient?
> 
> I have a delid 4790K with a Watercool Heatkiller Pro IV (not pictured above) so my CPU temps are about 15c cooler (max temp stock). My 980 Ti Classy is about 5c cooler (max temp stock). Not to mention I have my top on the clips and my front panel resting on its mount as well. I bet you would see at least 5c improvement just from adjusting the top and front panels and swapping the fans. Also, our ambient temps could be totally different.
> 
> Overclocked, my CPU (4.8Ghz/1.32v) goes to about 60C, my GPU (1535/8100Mhz/1.23v) goes to about 53c. My water temps don't usually go above 35c (fans sub 1200rpm). If I fully stress my system, overclocked, in something like [email protected] or AIDA64 my temps would be higher (+5c for the CPU/GPU, +3c for water).


I appreciate the quick reply, how difficult was the delid?

I will let you know what happens once I swap the fans, most likely Monday evening, weekend is chock full of house projects.


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *krutoydiesel*
> 
> I appreciate the quick reply, how difficult was the delid?
> 
> I will let you know what happens once I swap the fans, most likely Monday evening, weekend is chock full of house projects.


Happy to help!

Deliding certainly works when done properly. I can push all the way to 5.1Ghz at 1.45v without touching 80c. Otherwise I run +6c water at idle and about +20c at load. With that said, you absolutely, must, without exception, follow best practices. If you do, it's pretty straight forward and the risks are low. If you don't, you might permanently ruin your CPU.

The OCN Delid Club Thread is invaluable. I would not even think about deliding until you read through the OP and clear up any questions.


----------



## Valgaur

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> Happy to help!
> 
> Deliding certainly works when done properly. I can push all the way to 5.1Ghz at 1.45v without touching 80c. Otherwise I run +6c water at idle and about +20c at load. With that said, you absolutely, must, without exception, follow best practices. If you do, it's pretty straight forward and the risks are low. If you don't, you might permanently ruin your CPU.
> 
> The OCN Delid Club Thread is invaluable. I would not even think about deliding until you read through the OP and clear up any questions.


Agreed, Always read material before you attempt anything!


----------



## .theMetal

Another agree here, I delidded a few years ago. It was nerve wrecking, but it did gain me 15-20c drops. I used coolabratory liquid ultra under and on top of the IHS. Haven't had to re-apply since and my temps haven't gone up. Just read up and follow all the directions and hints you can.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *krutoydiesel*
> 
> Finished my build in this beautiful case.
> 
> *Having slight temperature issues due to the restriction up top, any tips on this?*. I also did the fan mod where it fits on top of the rad.


As already noted by @paskowitz, you don't have temp issues due to restriction. You have temp issues due to putting the fans where they clearly don't belong. Putting a fan a few mm away from a surface and expecting it to work correctly.....









The second issue is that the top needs to have the open spaces filled to isolate the exhaust airflow. Otherwise all you are doing is recirculating the warmer exhaust from the top rad. Air will seek the path of least resistance, which in the Evolv ATX will be through the large hole in front of the top rad. See below:



Your temps *may* little high *if* those are x264 or AIDA64 CPU+FPU type of tests on the CPU and similar on the GPU, but would entirely depend on your OC and voltage. For example, I'm running a 4790K @ 4.6/1.21V and 1070 SC w/ 100MHz OC added on a single 360GTS with Phanteks F120MP at 850rpm, two F140SP intake at 950rpm. Running x264 or AIDA64 CPU+FPU and AIDA64 GPU stress simultaneously in a 21-22C room will top my CPU out at ~63-65, GPU at 44-45, liquid temps will peak to ~36-37. You have an additional rad, so there should be no reason you shouldn't be getting temps at least that good on the CPU and a tick higher on the GPU.

The Evolv ATX works well provided you let it breathe correctly.


----------



## Gil80

does any one use a front radiator on the Enthoo Primo?
is there a temperature difference with that front cover on or off?

it seems counter-intuitive to have that front cover because it blocks the fans intake, or at least reduce their effectiveness.
on the other hand, maybe it doesn't.


----------



## krutoydiesel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> As already noted by @paskowitz, you don't have temp issues due to restriction. You have temp issues due to putting the fans where they clearly don't belong. Putting a fan a few mm away from a surface and expecting it to work correctly.....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The second issue is that the top needs to have the open spaces filled to isolate the exhaust airflow. Otherwise all you are doing is recirculating the warmer exhaust from the top rad. Air will seek the path of least resistance, which in the Evolv ATX will be through the large hole in front of the top rad. See below:
> 
> 
> 
> Your temps *may* little high *if* those are x264 or AIDA64 CPU+FPU type of tests on the CPU and similar on the GPU, but would entirely depend on your OC and voltage. For example, I'm running a 4790K @ 4.6/1.21V and 1070 SC w/ 100MHz OC added on a single 360GTS with Phanteks F120MP at 850rpm, two F140SP intake at 950rpm. Running x264 or AIDA64 CPU+FPU and AIDA64 GPU stress simultaneously in a 21-22C room will top my CPU out at ~63-65, GPU at 44-45, liquid temps will peak to ~36-37. You have an additional rad, so there should be no reason you shouldn't be getting temps at least that good on the CPU and a tick higher on the GPU.
> 
> The Evolv ATX works well provided you let it breathe correctly.


The temps I'm getting are during gaming.

Also, the section in front of my rad up top are blocked off by a clear piece of acrylic. I do need to check my voltage on my CPU and see what that's all about.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *krutoydiesel*
> 
> The temps I'm getting are during gaming.
> 
> Also, the section in front of my rad up top are blocked off by a clear piece of acrylic. I do need to check my voltage on my CPU and see what that's all about.


Ugh....yeah, those are some ugly CPU temps, and GPU temps are high, also.

"While gaming" doesn't help a lot in diagnosing. Download HW monitor and an actual stress test. OCCT is free and does the job well, just make sure you leave AVX unchecked. See what the speed of your CPU and voltage are during stress. What is the OC you are running?


----------



## krutoydiesel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Ugh....yeah, those are some ugly CPU temps, and GPU temps are high, also.
> 
> "While gaming" doesn't help a lot in diagnosing. Download HW monitor and an actual stress test. OCCT is free and does the job well, just make sure you leave AVX unchecked. See what the speed of your CPU and voltage are during stress. What is the OC you are running?


4.5 ghz at 1.235 volts at the core and I'm getting max 72c at core 1. While my GPU stays at 50c.

This is after swapping fan location and putting my top plate resting on the clips.

FYI I used to use a supremacy MX as my CPU block prior, seemed to cool/transfer better.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *krutoydiesel*
> 
> 4.5 ghz at 1.235 volts at the core and I'm getting max 72c at core 1. While my GPU stays at 50c.
> 
> This is after swapping fan location and putting my top plate resting on the clips.
> 
> FYI I used to use a supremacy MX as my CPU block prior, seemed to cool/transfer better.


If you are getting a max 72 on a single core, with t settling down and averaging lower, that would be pretty normal. How long are you running the stress test for, and which test are you using?

Your temps just seem really high to me for all of that rad space you are using. Maybe not a great seating on the CPU block? What fans and speeds? What pump are you using and at what speed? And what rads are they - they look like a 360GTS and 280GTS, is that correct?


----------



## krutoydiesel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> If you are getting a max 72 on a single core, with t settling down and averaging lower, that would be pretty normal. How long are you running the stress test for, and which test are you using?
> 
> Your temps just seem really high to me for all of that rad space you are using. Maybe not a great seating on the CPU block? What fans and speeds? What pump are you using and at what speed? And what rads are they - they look like a 360GTS and 280GTS, is that correct?


You are correct on the rads. I have a D5 set on speed 4. I had it at 3 in my other case. The reason all of this boggles my mind is because the only pieces I have changed are the case and the CPU block. And I had much better temps in my fractal define s. Fans typically stay at 700 rpm and ramp up as it gets warmer.

I ran the occt linpack test for 10 minutes. The worry is that I get crap temps during gaming.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *krutoydiesel*
> 
> You are correct on the rads. I have a D5 set on speed 4. I had it at 3 in my other case. The reason all of this boggles my mind is because the only pieces I have changed are the case and the CPU block. And I had much better temps in my fractal define s. Fans typically stay at 700 rpm and ramp up as it gets warmer.
> 
> I ran the occt linpack test for 10 minutes. The worry is that I get crap temps during gaming.


Are you monitoring liquid temp? Your GPU temp seems ok, so the liquid temps aren't way out of hand.

Still thinking it might be a bad CPU block seating, bad TIM application, etc. It seems to be completely a CPU specific issue. Crazy question....but you don't have the flow to the CPU block backwards by any chance? The Supremacy blocks are directional.

Either way, you should move this over to the WaCo forum, as it is not a Phanteks issue and has gotten way OT here.


----------



## krutoydiesel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Are you monitoring liquid temp? Your GPU temp seems ok, so the liquid temps aren't way out of hand.
> 
> Still thinking it might be a bad CPU block seating, bad TIM application, etc. It seems to be completely a CPU specific issue. Crazy question....but you don't have the flow to the CPU block backwards by any chance? The Supremacy blocks are directional.
> 
> Either way, you should move this over to the WaCo forum, as it is not a Phanteks issue and has gotten way OT here.


No, not monitoring the liquid temps. I might try reseating the block or even polishing the IHS on the CPU for better contact. I heard the MX mount is better than the evo mount in regards to getting proper contact.

Yeah the Tubing run is correct, the port closest to the center on the block is the in port.

Yep moving over to Waco


----------



## springs113

Ciarlatano...what fans do you recommend using for my rads Ek pe n some gtxs? Am i missing something as well, i have a 360 at the top of my evolv tg, should i be covering holes?


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *springs113*
> 
> Ciarlatano...what fans do you recommend using for my rads Ek pe n some gtxs? Am i missing something as well, i have a 360 at the top of my evolv tg, should i be covering holes?


You are going to get very similar performance and sound levels from GTs, eLoops, Vardars and F120MPs. The biggest difference between them will be sound signature, and that is all a matter of personal preference which is why you will hear so many different opinions regarding the noise of these. In the Evolv ATX, I went through a ridiculous amount of combinations of intake and rad fans. In the end I went with F140SP for intake and F120MP on a 360GTS simply because I like their sound profile and they work very well together on the Phanteks hub.


----------



## doyll

What ciarlatano said.








There are probably 6-12 top tier fans with good airflow to sound. which one is best depends more on how they interact with the grills, filters, radiators, etc. That and how well their speed range works with what we are using to control them.


----------



## jassilamba

Thought I would share my fun experience over the weekend while trying to wrap up the Luce TG review. I can gladly report that I can conducted a "planned" drop test of the case from about 2' down to a concrete floor (TG panel was off). Had a Maximus formula board with couple Strix 1070s and thankfully a dry loop in the case at the moment. The case handled the drop really well with no damage at all. Hardware inside is a slightly different story







.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jassilamba*
> 
> Thought I would share my fun experience over the weekend while trying to wrap up the Luce TG review. I can gladly report that I can conducted a "planned" drop test of the case from about 2' down to a concrete floor (TG panel was off). Had a Maximus formula board with couple Strix 1070s and thankfully a dry loop in the case at the moment. The case handled the drop really well with no damage at all. Hardware inside is a slightly different story
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


Sorry to hear that.


----------



## springs113

Why would one do a drop test and not expect damages?Really?

On another note doyll and ciarlatano I bought both the corsair MLs and phanteks that were mentioned earlier and will see how they work. Will update by thursday.


----------



## jearly410

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *springs113*
> 
> Why would one do a drop test and not expect damages?Really?


I'm pretty sure he's being sarcastic. Really.


----------



## jassilamba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *springs113*
> 
> Why would one do a drop test and not expect damages?Really?
> 
> On another note doyll and ciarlatano I bought both the corsair MLs and phanteks that were mentioned earlier and will see how they work. Will update by thursday.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jearly410*
> 
> I'm pretty sure he's being sarcastic. Really.


Yes, was trying to be sarcastic, hence the work planned in "quotes". Had a weird grip when trying to put the build on the floor when it slipped from my hand.


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jassilamba*
> 
> Yes, was trying to be sarcastic, hence the work planned in "quotes". Had a weird grip when trying to put the build on the floor when it slipped from my hand.


Man that is too bad, how bad was the damage?


----------



## Greyson Travis

Hi all, just wondering will there be a fitting issue for RVE Edition 10 and the Phanteks Enthoo Pro ATX TG? Help will be greatly appreciated.


----------



## springs113

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Greyson Travis*
> 
> Hi all, just wondering will there be a fitting issue for RVE Edition 10 and the Phanteks Enthoo Pro ATX TG? Help will be greatly appreciated.


Yes you will have some clearance issues, but like I and a few others here have gotten it to work. One guy did it by removing the grommets and the led backplate...I cut out a few mm out of my case. It depends on what route you wanna go.


----------



## kush621

Almost done. Just waiting on some new cables that will match the purple better and sheet of glass to swap the acrylic window out with. The glass tubing looks so so good. Aslo I gotta give thanks to Kyouki for some cool ideas.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *springs113*
> 
> Why would one do a drop test and not expect damages?Really?
> 
> On another note doyll and ciarlatano I bought both the corsair MLs and phanteks that were mentioned earlier and will see how they work. Will update by thursday.


Please let us know what you think when you get them installed.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kush621*
> 
> Almost done. Just waiting on some new cables that will match the purple better and sheet of glass to swap the acrylic window out with. The glass tubing looks so so good. Aslo I gotta give thanks to Kyouki for some cool ideas.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Very nice!


----------



## pez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *.theMetal*
> 
> Thanks! I say go for it, just sneak them on there, no one will know but you. Until she see's it.


Oh she wouldn't mind







. She's just in it for the few games that she does play, but it's part of our bonding time together when we're not feeling being couch-potatoes







.


----------



## jassilamba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rfarmer*
> 
> Man that is too bad, how bad was the damage?


Thankfully everything is fine. Ran 3D Mark last night, and things looked good. At this point the biggest damage has been done to my ego lol. I'm glad that top and the side panels have cables plugged in vs soldered on as those plugs came out, the front panel went flying off, and the top panel stayed in my hand. Got the loop finished last night, gonna take the final pics tonight and get the review done.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jassilamba*
> 
> Thankfully everything is fine. Ran 3D Mark last night, and things looked good. At this point the biggest damage has been done to my ego lol. I'm glad that top and the side panels have cables plugged in vs soldered on as those plugs came out, the front panel went flying off, and the top panel stayed in my hand. Got the loop finished last night, gonna take the final pics tonight and get the review done.


That is good news!


----------



## .theMetal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pez*
> 
> Oh she wouldn't mind
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . She's just in it for the few games that she does play, but it's part of our bonding time together when we're not feeling being couch-potatoes
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


Oh yea I understand, my wife is the same way. We play lots of Overwatch together, but melting into the couch is also good.


----------



## Faster_is_better

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kush621*
> 
> Almost done. Just waiting on some new cables that will match the purple better and sheet of glass to swap the acrylic window out with. The glass tubing looks so so good. Aslo I gotta give thanks to Kyouki for some cool ideas.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Very nice. Maximum Purple!


----------



## kush621

Thanks. I was thinking Grimace would be a suitable name with all that purple.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kush621*
> 
> Thanks. I was thinking Grimace would be a suitable name with all that purple.


Or "The Rig Formerly Known as Prince"......


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Or "The Rig Formerly Known as Prince"......


or just the symbol that meant "formally known as prince" lol


----------



## greg1184

Anyone else using a block like this:


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *greg1184*
> 
> Anyone else using a block like this:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Good looking block, shame they don't offer a backplate.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *greg1184*
> 
> Anyone else using a block like this:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Yes, I have one on an EVGA 1070 SC with the EVGA backplate. Great looking block, good temps and excellent build quality. It's a little more restrictive than the Swiftech, EK and XSPC I have been using, though. I wish I had thought about replacing the Phanteks LEDs with three 3mm wired to the LED output on the GPU board, would have sabved me a headache since my Evolv ATX doesn't have the RGB header.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rfarmer*
> 
> Good looking block, shame they don't offer a backplate.


I believe there is one slated to be released. In the meantime, it works with most (if not all) factory backplates.


----------



## Scotty99

How do the tiny dust filters work in the P400? I still have an antec 300 and even if i dont clean it for 3+ months my case is pretty clean, dont wanna go backwards in that regard.

Also i was watching a review of the P400....is it actually true you cant fit a 240 AIO in the top of the case? There is no way that is true, right?


----------



## smithydan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scotty99*
> 
> How do the tiny dust filters work in the P400? I still have an antec 300 and even if i dont clean it for 3+ months my case is pretty clean, dont wanna go backwards in that regard.
> 
> Also i was watching a review of the P400....is it actually true you cant fit a 240 AIO in the top of the case? There is no way that is true, right?


No radiator top support natively.


----------



## Scotty99

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smithydan*
> 
> No radiator top support natively.


Someone should get fired for that, who puts all those holes and a dust filter at the top of a case and just forgets to line the holes up properly? That kind of negligence is just mind boggling.


----------



## smithydan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scotty99*
> 
> Someone should get fired for that, who puts all those holes and a dust filter at the top of a case and just forgets to line the holes up properly? That kind of negligence is just mind boggling.


lol, it is a budget case they made to just have exhaust fans.

Also they probably don't want it competing with the Evolv Pro M


----------



## Scotty99

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smithydan*
> 
> lol, it is a budget case they made to just have exhaust fans.
> 
> Also they probably don't want it competing with the Evolv Pro M


Just, no lol. Someone ****ed up big time, thats probably why its so cheap. That alone is enough for me to take it off my list.

And this is coming from someone who mostly uses air cooling, just looking at it would piss me off lol. Sorry, i just cant believe it does not have the proper holes to mount a radiator that is a next level mess up lol.


----------



## jassilamba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> That is good news!


Yes indeed. Build is done, and everything came out okay. Review build will be out soon, and will say that I already want to see a Evolv the size of the Luxe.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *greg1184*
> 
> Anyone else using a block like this:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Blocks like these make me wish that Phanteks would release a case where I we could flip the motherboard tray around and have an inverse atx setup. Glad to see that the Enthoo Elite is using a vertical mount bracket to showoff those nice blocks.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scotty99*
> 
> How do the tiny dust filters work in the P400? I still have an antec 300 and even if i dont clean it for 3+ months my case is pretty clean, dont wanna go backwards in that regard.
> 
> Also i was watching a review of the P400....is it actually true you cant fit a 240 AIO in the top of the case? There is no way that is true, right?


You can install one in the front easily, unless you need to use that space for drives. Top does not have enough clearance for rad and fans


----------



## PureBlackFire

people keep droning on about the P400 not supporting top radiators. I wonder if they actually bother to measure whether they'd be able to fit a rad and fans even if they were offset touching the side panel. from the looks of it there still wouldn't be enough space with 99% of builds. you'd need a motherboard with low or no vrm heatsinks, the cpu power connector would need to be placed lower and you'd need extra low profile ram. the case is only ~200 mm wide, like it's competitor the S340, which also doesn't have top rad support.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PureBlackFire*
> 
> people keep droning on about the P400 not supporting top radiators. I wonder if they actually bother to measure whether they'd be able to fit a rad and fans even if they were offset touching the side panel. from the looks of it there still wouldn't be enough space with 99% of builds. you'd need a motherboard with low or no vrm heatsinks, the cpu power connector would need to be placed lower and you'd need extra low profile ram. the case is only ~200 mm wide, like it's competitor the S340, which also doesn't have top rad support.


Unfortunately, people seem to expect Primo liquid cooling options at $69.









What you say is spot on. It's a small case. It's a $69 case. It offers more than most of it's competitors and is very well made for it's price point. It is what it is. If you want a Pro M, then buy a Pro M instead of complaining that the P400 isn't a Pro M.


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Unfortunately, people seem to expect Primo liquid cooling options at $69.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What you say is spot on. It's a small case. It's a $69 case. It offers more than most of it's competitors and is very well made for it's price point. It is what it is. If you want a Pro M, then buy a Pro M instead of complaining that the P400 isn't a Pro M.


Exactly. There are many people out there with builds using single AIOs, this would be perfect for them.


----------



## Scotty99

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PureBlackFire*
> 
> people keep droning on about the P400 not supporting top radiators. I wonder if they actually bother to measure whether they'd be able to fit a rad and fans even if they were offset touching the side panel. from the looks of it there still wouldn't be enough space with 99% of builds. you'd need a motherboard with low or no vrm heatsinks, the cpu power connector would need to be placed lower and you'd need extra low profile ram. the case is only ~200 mm wide, like it's competitor the S340, which also doesn't have top rad support.


Oh come on lol, all they would have had to do is move the dang punch press over 2 inches and have it offset like everyone else is doing. Which would have been a perfect solution given they are already including a dust filter on top to cover up for it not being symmetrical.

Its still an ok budget case, but it could have been THE budget case if it just had offset radiator mounts at the top.


----------



## doyll

We can't buy a BMW 3 series for the price of a Kia Picanto
We can't buy a Pro, Pro M or Luxe for the price of a P400.
We can't buy a silk purse for the price of a sow's ear.


----------



## Scotty99

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> We can't buy a BMW 3 series for the price of a Kia Picanto
> We can't buy a Pro, Pro M or Luxe for the price of a P400.
> We can't buy a silk purse for the price of a sow's ear.


I dont understand the pushback i am getting here, it would not have cost them a cent to move the press over 2 inches and poke some holes at the top...

The replies im getting in here make me think you guys agree that there should NOT be radiator support at the top?


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scotty99*
> 
> I dont understand the pushback i am getting here, it would not have cost them a cent to move the press over 2 inches and poke some holes at the top...
> 
> The replies im getting in here make me think you guys agree that there should NOT be radiator support at the top?


It more of a 'would have / could have / should have' kind of thing. It's so easy to judge and say things after the fact. None of us where there when it was being designed and built. To me that means we shouldn't be second guessing what they should have done.

Combine that with the fact they were designing and marketing a lower level case than any already being sold to try give people with less money a case they could afford from within the Phanteks case line. Obviously Phanteks is going to try and make a good case, but they do not want to make one that will draw buyers away from their other cases. This means it would not make sense to put all the nice features in a lower level case regardless of it would cost no more to build or only a few cents more. These are the same reasons BMW has many different cars costing different prices with higher priced models having more features.

The P400 is what it is .. and Phanteks did a good job of making a lower priced case that has many nice features other in it's case do not.

You can either buy a different case that has the added features you want or buy the P400 and modify it to do what you want it to do.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scotty99*
> 
> I dont understand the pushback i am getting here, it would not have cost them a cent to move the press over 2 inches and poke some holes at the top...
> 
> The replies im getting in here make me think you guys agree that there should NOT be radiator support at the top?


I am taking a wild guess that you don't own this case, have never done a build in one and have chosen to completely ignore what @PureBlackFire said in explaining why your "move the holes" idea doesn't work. You are saying that you would like one set of the holes outside of the case, JFYI. The case isn't wide enough for your suggestion. This has been explained to you and reiterated. It isn't "pushback", it is people who have actually used the case knowing that it isn't physically possible.

So, again, get over it and buy a Pro M if you want a top mounted rad.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scotty99*
> 
> Just, no lol. Someone ****ed up big time,


That is true, wanna take a guess who that someone is in this conversation?


----------



## ScoutMan

Hi guys, could you help a first time builder (I actually transferred my old PC into the Evolv ATX TG).

1. I don't really get the PWM hub. My case fans are currently not spinning, do I have to connect the kinda rubbered cable to CPU_FAN on top of the motherboard?
My stock Intel CPU fan is currently there, where do I connect it then (I thought to the hub but it has 4 pins?)

2. I have 1 unplugged cable, the one in the picture, 4 pin, what is this, where do I connect it? 

Thanks.


----------



## BLAMM0

I think there's a header for a second "cpu fan" on the motherboard. Not sure about your motherboard though.


----------



## ScoutMan

It's a Gigabyte Z motherboard, the only other 4pin I see is the SYS_FAN2 on the bottom right.



Sorry if it's a stupid question lol.

EDIT: I read something on some other forum, should I plug the PWM HUB 4pin into CPU_FAN, and the Intel stock cooler into the first white 3pin on the PWM HUB and the case fans will work based on it?

Thanks.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ScoutMan*
> 
> EDIT: I read something on some other forum, should I plug the PWM HUB 4pin into CPU_FAN, and the Intel stock cooler into the first white 3pin on the PWM HUB and the case fans will work based on it?
> 
> Thanks.


That is exactly what you should do. Be sure to connect the SATA on the hub when using more than two fans.

The other option is to use the CPU fan header for the hub, and use a SYS header for the CPU cooler, and set up the curves as you like for both.


----------



## ScoutMan

Thanks for the reply, I've connected the SATA cable but the Intel stock cooler wires are too short to reach the PWM Hub. I guess I'll have to go with the 2nd option then and set the curves up in BIOS or some software?

Oh, and the 4pin that I haven't connected is for the Phanteks LED strip, missed it in the manual.


----------



## BLAMM0

You can also use an extender cable for the cpu cooler.


----------



## ScoutMan

Ah yeah thanks I didn't even think of that, I'll do it when I find one (third world country).
I just connected it to the 4pin SYS_FAN header and it's working, and pretty silently too (at least compared to my old case).

Btw, when I saw this 1 pin missing I had a mini heart attack.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ScoutMan*
> 
> Thanks for the reply, I've connected the SATA cable but the Intel stock cooler wires are too short to reach the PWM Hub. I guess I'll have to go with the 2nd option then and set the curves up in BIOS or some software?
> 
> Oh, and the 4pin that I haven't connected is for the Phanteks LED strip, missed it in the manual.


Just run the CPU cooler over to SYS FAN 1. You can then set up your fan curves in BIOS, or using software like SpeedFan or Gigabyte's Easy Tune 6. I seem to recall the Gigabyte software working prettywell for fan curves, and being very simple to set up.


----------



## mrpurplehawk

Changed my desk setup down to 2 monitors over 3 and now I can admire the case close up easier.









Old setup


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







New setup


----------



## TeslaHUN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mrpurplehawk*
> 
> Changed my desk setup down to 2 monitors over 3 and now I can admire the case close up easier.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Old setup
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> New setup


How are your VGA temps (and what VGA are those ) ? Is the Primo enough for SLI on aircooling ?


----------



## mrpurplehawk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TeslaHUN*
> 
> How are your VGA temps (and what VGA are those ) ? Is the Primo enough for SLI on aircooling ?


Both 980 Ti's max out about 70C with all case fans running at 100% (2front,2bottom,1rear and the 3 on my top Rad running at 40%) Gpu fans set to auto. Thankfully I have a full 2 slots between the cards to allow ample airflow to the top card. I also removed all hard drives cages and place my 3.5" in an adapter in the optical bay to further increase airflow. I'd say it has plenty of potential for SLI air cooled


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mrpurplehawk*
> 
> Both 980 Ti's max out about 70C with all case fans running at 100% (2front,2bottom,1rear and the 3 on my top Rad running at 40%) Gpu fans set to auto. Thankfully I have a full 2 slots between the cards to allow ample airflow to the top card. I also removed all hard drives cages and place my 3.5" in an adapter in the optical bay to further increase airflow. I'd say it has plenty of potential for SLI air cooled


I'm assuming the 2x front and 2x bottom are intake, and 1x rear is exhaust. Is 360 Predator intake or exhaust?

I found raising the case up on 33mm blocks gives bottom vents much better airflow. While the bottom has good vents, the base only has about 91 sq cm of airflow area .. a single 140mm fan has 144 sq cm of flow area.







Raising case up with 33 mm blocks under the 5 pads adds 420 sq cm more airflow area to bottom vents.









I've made many caster bases using 6x 30 an 40 mm casters (33mm is the clearance using 30mm casters) .. sometimes casters have brakes. Stopping distance is dependent on floor and total weight of system.







I've also made a few bases with just blocks on them instead of casters for use on desks.
http://www.overclock.net/t/1418637/official-case-phanteks-case-club-for-lovers-owners/14760_20#post_25457818


----------



## mrpurplehawk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> I'm assuming the 2x front and 2x bottom are intake, and 1x rear is exhaust. Is 360 Predator intake or exhaust?
> 
> I found raising the case up on 33mm blocks gives bottom vents much better airflow. While the bottom has good vents, the base only has about 91 sq cm of airflow area .. a single 140mm fan has 144 sq cm of flow area.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Raising case up with 33 mm blocks under the 5 pads adds 420 sq cm more airflow area to bottom vents.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've made many caster bases using 6x 30 an 40 mm casters (33mm is the clearance using 30mm casters) .. sometimes casters have brakes. Stopping distance is dependent on floor and total weight of system.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've also made a few bases with just blocks on them instead of casters for use on desks.
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1418637/official-case-phanteks-case-club-for-lovers-owners/14760_20#post_25457818


Correct on the fan layout, and the predator is exhaust. I have seen your post about raising it before and I like the idea but I'm not a fan of casters and am not that handing with building custom psrts


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mrpurplehawk*
> 
> Correct on the fan layout, and the predator is exhaust. I have seen your post about raising it before and I like the idea but I'm not a fan of casters and am not that handing with building custom psrts


Kids wooden or plastic blocks, hockey pucks, caps off of bottles or spray cans, or any of a number of other possible things will work as long as you don't move case very often.


----------



## vaoqeRG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> I've made many caster bases using 6x 30 an 40 mm casters (33mm is the clearance using 30mm casters) .. sometimes casters have brakes. Stopping distance is dependent on floor and total weight of system.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've also made a few bases with just blocks on them instead of casters for use on desks.
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1418637/official-case-phanteks-case-club-for-lovers-owners/14760_20#post_25457818


Do you sell the bases you've built for the Primo at all? Or do you know where one could get a similar base with casters?

Its a great idea!

I have no access to any tools so buying one would be ideal really. Otherwise I will have to find some blocks to rest the case on.


----------



## mrpurplehawk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Kids wooden or plastic blocks, hockey pucks, caps off of bottles or spray cans, or any of a number of other possible things will work as long as you don't move case very often.


I know there are a lot of ways to do it, but personally unless it looks good, I would rather not do it. I may have a friend try to make me something that looks like the pictures with something else in place of the casters.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vaoqeRG*
> 
> Do you sell the bases you've built for the Primo at all? Or do you know where one could get a similar base with casters?
> 
> Its a great idea!
> 
> I have no access to any tools so buying one would be ideal really. Otherwise I will have to find some blocks to rest the case on.


I've sold over a dozen just for Primo .. and many others oft other cases here in UK. International shipping is prohibitively expensive. I haven't made any bases of any kind sense last spring.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mrpurplehawk*
> 
> I know there are a lot of ways to do it, but personally unless it looks good, I would rather not do it. I may have a friend try to make me something that looks like the pictures with something else in place of the casters.


Any kind of 30mm tall feet will work. Could be pieces of 1: dowel painted black.








Thing is if it's not casters, the case will move on the base when you try to move it.


----------



## mrpurplehawk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Any kind of 30mm tall feet will work. Could be pieces of 1: dowel painted black.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thing is if it's not casters, the case will move on the base when you try to move it.


My idea for him would be to have it raised and then rubber feet on the bottom, I think that should stop my movement.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mrpurplehawk*
> 
> My idea for him would be to have it raised and then rubber feet on the bottom, I think that should stop my movement.


It's been too long sense I had to base off, but you might be able to drill a few hole and screw the stock base to a frame like I use that has l30mm risers with rubber feet on them. Would need to also drill oversize holes for where the stock base mounting screws go .. or maybe find longer screws and use them to mount both riser-base and stock base. That way it would be an intergral part of case when you move it around.

I made a sled kind of thing for a guy who only had 32mm clearance under his desk. Used same frame in thinner material with blocks and thin 'runners' with both ends radiused up so it would slide on his carpeted floor.


----------



## pez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Unfortunately, people seem to expect Primo liquid cooling options at $69.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What you say is spot on. It's a small case. It's a $69 case. It offers more than most of it's competitors and is very well made for it's price point. It is what it is. If you want a Pro M, then buy a Pro M instead of complaining that the P400 isn't a Pro M.


I've explained this to a couple people as well. They would essentially challenge sales on their own cases (Pro M and non-TG Evolv ATX) if they did this. Loading a 'budget' case up with rads and stuff seems a bit counter-intuitive.


----------



## BinaryBummer

I pulled the trigger and ordered the Phantek Ethroo Pro White. I was back and forth and leaned to the Corsair 760T cause I wanted the full window and Phantek don't have the new TG out yet so that got scratched off the want list.

Now i only how this case will be fulfilling for eternity. I still have the PSU to order and opted to next month to get it. Funny how all the sales go away the day before they go on sale the day after i buy.

Be at least a weak now. Also just went with the Lepa 240 AIO cooler. I got to the point I was about to buy a swiftech but then the hassle of priming and chance of leak I wasn't interested in adding on etc. either so i went with the Lepa and its ordered.

Cheers!


----------



## luukelbo

Today i made a psu shield for my case :thumbup: it's not done yet i just wraped it in some vinyl i,m going to add some grommet's for cable management, i did add a place for my ssd. I am going to paint it maybe with a subtil graphic i have a Blue sleeved corsair cable kit comming soon!























Verstuurd vanaf mijn Nexus 6P met Tapatalk


----------



## jassilamba

With the review pushed today, I just wanted to share my Enthoo Luxe build with you guys. Nothing too fancy, just a simple loop to showcase the case. I will admit, I don't think I can own or use anything that does not have a tempered glass panel anymore.


----------



## PureBlackFire

^ i came to the same conclusion after getting an InWin 303 a few months back. cannot go back to these nasty, polycarbinate side windows.


----------



## paskowitz

^
Agreed. The scratch resistance alone is worth it.


----------



## honj90

I was dead set on buying the EVOLV TG and then while I was waiting for it to be in stock Phanteks went ahead released the Luxe TG ruining all my plans. I know I'm getting one of those two, but I've read this thread and the reviews that were posted, but I'm still hesitating. Could someone who has tested both provide some input?

That's my personal comparison of the two so far:

*Luxe TG advantages*


Only one glass side-panel (the second glass panel will be completely useless to me and more of a hassle) and hinged doors. This feels pretty important to me, it seems like a nice time-saver and makes opening/closing the case much more worry-free, although I haven't worked with the Evolv, so taking off and handling the side-panels might not be such a big deal as I imagine it to be.
Price. In my case it costs 20€ less than the Evolv TG. It also comes with some lighting by default, whereas a lighting strip for the Evolv costs an additional 20€. Not really the worst thing, but a 40€ swing is still somewhat significant.
The 5.25" bays. Not that useful, but still nice to have I guess.
*Evolv TG advantages*


Aesthetics. The clean look of the Evolv has really grown on me, both for the exterior and the interior. In comparison to the Luxe it reminds me more of a sleek sports car as opposed to a SUV.
Size. It's somewhat smaller. Not a big deal, but it's still nice to have a more compact case.
I'm mostly interested in what people have to say about the ease-of-use of the Luxe side-panel and whether the restricted airflow of the Evolv that has been mentioned a couple of times is actually a big deal (The most direct comparison I could find is this vs this review where the difference is negligible, but it's also on air-cooling. I will personally use a 360 AIO for the CPU while the GPU will be air-cooled at least for now).

EDIT: Also, can the Luxe support a fan at the bottom? The specs mention radiator support, but no fans.


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *honj90*
> 
> I was dead set on buying the EVOLV TG and then while I was waiting for it to be in stock Phanteks went ahead released the Luxe TG ruining all my plans. I know I'm getting one of those two, but I've read this thread and the reviews that were posted, but I'm still hesitating. Could someone who has tested both provide some input?
> 
> That's my personal comparison of the two so far:
> 
> *Luxe TG advantages*
> 
> 
> Only one glass side-panel (the second glass panel will be completely useless to me and more of a hassle) and hinged doors. This feels pretty important to me, it seems like a nice time-saver and makes opening/closing the case much more worry-free, although I haven't worked with the Evolv, so taking off and handling the side-panels might not be such a big deal as I imagine it to be.
> Price. In my case it costs 20€ less than the Evolv TG. It also comes with some lighting by default, whereas a lighting strip for the Evolv costs an additional 20€. Not really the worst thing, but a 40€ swing is still somewhat significant.
> The 5.25" bays. Not that useful, but still nice to have I guess.
> *Evolv TG advantages*
> 
> 
> Aesthetics. The clean look of the Evolv has really grown on me, both for the exterior and the interior. In comparison to the Luxe it reminds me more of a sleek sports car as opposed to a SUV.
> Size. It's somewhat smaller. Not a big deal, but it's still nice to have a more compact case.
> I'm mostly interested in what people have to say about the ease-of-use of the Luxe side-panel and whether the restricted airflow of the Evolv that has been mentioned a couple of times is actually a big deal (The most direct comparison I could find is this vs this review where the difference is negligible, but it's also on air-cooling. I will personally use a 360 AIO for the CPU while the GPU will be air-cooled at least for now).
> 
> EDIT: Also, can the Luxe support a fan at the bottom? The specs mention radiator support, but no fans.


Honestly, I think it really comes down to how much do you like the look of the Evolv. That is the "selling point". The airflow issues can be fixed with some simple adjustments... but overall the case is not ideal for something like X99/SLI Titans. In terms of the rear panel, it really depends on how much you access your case. If it is every couple weeks, yeah, I guess it could be a little annoying. Otherwise, you don't really notice it. Also, if you have cable management OCD... then you will have to clean up the back of the case as well.

That aside, it is a stunning case. I value aesthetics highly and only have a 4790K/VRM and 1x 980 Ti to cool... so for me it was the right choice.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *honj90*
> 
> I was dead set on buying the EVOLV TG and then while I was waiting for it to be in stock Phanteks went ahead released the Luxe TG ruining all my plans. I know I'm getting one of those two, but I've read this thread and the reviews that were posted, but I'm still hesitating. Could someone who has tested both provide some input?
> 
> That's my personal comparison of the two so far:
> 
> *Luxe TG advantages*
> 
> 
> Only one glass side-panel (the second glass panel will be completely useless to me and more of a hassle) and hinged doors. This feels pretty important to me, it seems like a nice time-saver and makes opening/closing the case much more worry-free, although I haven't worked with the Evolv, so taking off and handling the side-panels might not be such a big deal as I imagine it to be.
> Price. In my case it costs 20€ less than the Evolv TG. It also comes with some lighting by default, whereas a lighting strip for the Evolv costs an additional 20€. Not really the worst thing, but a 40€ swing is still somewhat significant.
> The 5.25" bays. Not that useful, but still nice to have I guess.
> *Evolv TG advantages*
> 
> 
> Aesthetics. The clean look of the Evolv has really grown on me, both for the exterior and the interior. In comparison to the Luxe it reminds me more of a sleek sports car as opposed to a SUV.
> Size. It's somewhat smaller. Not a big deal, but it's still nice to have a more compact case.
> I'm mostly interested in what people have to say about the ease-of-use of the Luxe side-panel and whether the restricted airflow of the Evolv that has been mentioned a couple of times is actually a big deal (The most direct comparison I could find is this vs this review where the difference is negligible, but it's also on air-cooling. I will personally use a 360 AIO for the CPU while the GPU will be air-cooled at least for now).
> 
> EDIT: Also, can the Luxe support a fan at the bottom? The specs mention radiator support, but no fans.


If case is same as normal Luxe, yes, the bottom has 2x vents plus PSU vent. But the PSU cover is not vented. I just didn't use the PSU cover.








I have both Luxe and Evolv ATX and love them both. Luxe has better venting out of the box,and Luxe TG has 2x 140mm front fan







.. the normal Luxe came with the funky 180mm front fan which most of us replaced with 2x 140mm fans.


----------



## dlewbell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *honj90*
> 
> EDIT: Also, can the Luxe support a fan at the bottom? The specs mention radiator support, but no fans.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> If case is same as normal Luxe, yes, the bottom has 2x vents plus PSU vent. But the PSU cover is not vented. I just didn't use the PSU cover.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have both Luxe and Evolv ATX and love them both. Luxe has better venting out of the box,and Luxe TG has 2x 140mm front fan
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .. the normal Luxe came with the funky 180mm front fan which most of us replaced with 2x 140mm fans.


To expand on doyll's comments a bit more, the bottom of the Luxe supports 2x120mm fans or 1x140mm fan. You can fit the 140mm fan either in the provided slots, or with a bit of effort & long 6-32 bolts w/ nuts it will mount to the 2 holes towards the front, which gets the fan out from under the PSU shroud in an air cooled situation, but you cannot fit 140mm fans in both locations simultaneously.


----------



## TeslaHUN

wow


----------



## morta

im still waiting on this enthoo elite...iv been holding out on this case upgrade for ever. were the hell is it?..its November. come on!


----------



## honj90

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> Honestly, I think it really comes down to how much do you like the look of the Evolv. That is the "selling point". The airflow issues can be fixed with some simple adjustments... but overall the case is not ideal for something like X99/SLI Titans. In terms of the rear panel, it really depends on how much you access your case. If it is every couple weeks, yeah, I guess it could be a little annoying. Otherwise, you don't really notice it. Also, if you have cable management OCD... then you will have to clean up the back of the case as well.
> 
> That aside, it is a stunning case. I value aesthetics highly and only have a 4790K/VRM and 1x 980 Ti to cool... so for me it was the right choice.


You're right, cooling is realistically not going to be an issue, it's mostly about the aesthetics of the evolv vs the slightly lower price and convenience of the luxe for me. It does seem aesthetics are going to win out for me in the end, if I'm going to look at this case for the next X years it might as well be nice to look at. The side panels are not really a big deal in the grand scheme of things a few extra minutes a couple of times per month I guess. Sight... I just wish they made the Evolv with only one glass side-panel on hinges, then it would be my dream case. I can't really wait for CES though, so I guess I'll have to make due with what's available








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> If case is same as normal Luxe, yes, the bottom has 2x vents plus PSU vent. But the PSU cover is not vented. I just didn't use the PSU cover.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have both Luxe and Evolv ATX and love them both. Luxe has better venting out of the box,and Luxe TG has 2x 140mm front fan
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .. the normal Luxe came with the funky 180mm front fan which most of us replaced with 2x 140mm fans.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dlewbell*
> 
> To expand on doyll's comments a bit more, the bottom of the Luxe supports 2x120mm fans or 1x140mm fan. You can fit the 140mm fan either in the provided slots, or with a bit of effort & long 6-32 bolts w/ nuts it will mount to the 2 holes towards the front, which gets the fan out from under the PSU shroud in an air cooled situation, but you cannot fit 140mm fans in both locations simultaneously.


So basically one 140mm fan at the bottom? I guess it's a nice bonus to consider. Thanks for your input.


----------



## springs113

Gonna reapply thermal paste and see if my temps improve, if not looks like I may be going towards another case or going back to my 750/900d. So glad I have qdcs. this should be accomplished within a matter of minutes.


----------



## jassilamba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *honj90*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> You're right, cooling is realistically not going to be an issue, it's mostly about the aesthetics of the evolv vs the slightly lower price and convenience of the luxe for me. It does seem aesthetics are going to win out for me in the end, if I'm going to look at this case for the next X years it might as well be nice to look at. The side panels are not really a big deal in the grand scheme of things a few extra minutes a couple of times per month I guess. Sight... I just wish they made the Evolv with only one glass side-panel on hinges, then it would be my dream case. I can't really wait for CES though, so I guess I'll have to make due with what's available
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So basically one 140mm fan at the bottom? I guess it's a nice bonus to consider. Thanks for your input.


Bottom can fit 2x140mm fans, there is just not enough space to put a 280 radiator.

Pics for proof (You can see the 140 and the 120 fan mounts)


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jassilamba*
> 
> Bottom can fit 2x140mm fans, there is just not enough space to put a 280 radiator.
> 
> Pics for proof (You can see the 140 and the 120 fan mounts)


I was thinking the same thing, but was too lazy to drag out my case and check.









Also the bottom filters; PSU filter removes from back and other filters slide out the front. A simple mod makes them into a single long filter pack that slides out the front .. meaning you do not need to get down under the desk and move case out to slide the PSU filter out the back.
http://www.overclock.net/t/1418637/official-case-phanteks-case-club-for-lovers-owners/10220_20#post_24095206

Something so simple makes life so much better.


----------



## dlewbell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jassilamba*
> 
> Bottom can fit 2x140mm fans, there is just not enough space to put a 280 radiator.
> 
> Pics for proof (You can see the 140 and the 120 fan mounts)
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Case Pics


I thought so too, before I installed a fan in there. Nope, spacing is wrong.


----------



## sebna

Quick question to Phanteks Evolv ATX owners.

Can I mount round 140 fans in front (two of them). I was thinking TY-147A fans from Thermalright.. I know that they also make square ones but round ones have slightly better specs.

Thanks


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sebna*
> 
> Quick question to Phanteks Evolv ATX owners.
> 
> Can I mount round 140 fans in front (two of them). I was thinking TY-147A fans from Thermalright.. I know that they also make square ones but round ones have slightly better specs.
> 
> Thanks


Yes, you caneed using the mounts for 120mm.


----------



## springs113

Evolv atx owners under water, What are your cpu and gpu temps?
Let me know if you are also running dual gpus.


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *springs113*
> 
> Evolv atx owners under water, What are your cpu and gpu temps?
> Let me know if you are also running dual gpus.


System specs:
CPU: 4790K Delid at 4.8Ghz / 1.32v (CLU on die and IHS)
GPU: 1x EVGA GTX 980 Ti Classified (game clocks 1535/8100Mhz)
Mobo: Asus Maximus VII Formula VRM under water
Cooling: Watercool Heatkiller IV Pro (CPU), EKWB FC-780 gtx classy (GPU), HWL Black Ice Nemesis GTS 280 Xflow (2x140mm exhaust), Swiftech H240-X (3x140mm intake), 1x140mm (intake).

Idle
CPU: +5-10c water
GPU: -2-0c water

Load (Gaming/stress tests)
CPU: +20c / +30c water
GPU: +10-15c / +15-17c water


----------



## springs113

Thanks for the reply, I'm having temp issues and want to see what others are experiencing. This thread however isn't as active as it used to be, but I can work with that. I will be switching my EK PE to GTX 360 or possibly my xflow 360.


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *springs113*
> 
> Thanks for the reply, I'm having temp issues and want to see what others are experiencing. This thread however isn't as active as it used to be, but I can work with that. I will be switching my EK PE to GTX 360 or possibly my xflow 360.


Happy to help!

First, never rule out a bad TIM application, poor heatsink/waterblock sitting, and just having hot silicon. Also making sure you pair fan RPM with water temp.

Make sure you have made the necessary adjustments to your rig to adjust for the Evolv's restrictive stock airflow:

Rest the top and front panels on their clips
If the top panel has a radiator, block off the unused/open space
If you have one rad, front>top mounting.
If you have dual rads, set front rad to intake, top rad to exhaust and rear fan to intake
In a dual rad config, top 280 HWL GTS and front HWL GTX/EK XE 360 is optimal for performance (vs dual 360 slim or 360 slim w/ 280mm thick).
Just the first two bullets alone should result in at least a 5c temp drop.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *springs113*
> 
> Thanks for the reply, I'm having temp issues and want to see what others are experiencing. This thread however isn't as active as it used to be, but I can work with that. I will be switching my EK PE to GTX 360 or possibly my xflow 360.


What are your temps when you remove front and top panels?


----------



## springs113

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> What are your temps when you remove front and top panels?


My temps only drop a marginal 3-5 degrees at most

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> Happy to help!
> 
> First, never rule out a bad TIM application, poor heatsink/waterblock sitting, and just having hot silicon. Also making sure you pair fan RPM with water temp.
> 
> Make sure you have made the necessary adjustments to your rig to adjust for the Evolv's restrictive stock airflow:
> 
> Rest the top and front panels on their clips
> If the top panel has a radiator, block off the unused/open space
> If you have one rad, front>top mounting.
> If you have dual rads, set front rad to intake, top rad to exhaust and rear fan to intake
> In a dual rad config, top 280 HWL GTS and front HWL GTX/EK XE 360 is optimal for performance (vs dual 360 slim or 360 slim w/ 280mm thick).
> Just the first two bullets alone should result in at least a 5c temp drop.


I have this setup in another case before this and the temps idling were low 30s(c) almost alway @ idle. I've got a good cpu o/c and thermal wise as my 5930k was hitting those temps at 4.5 o/c. I have a pwm pump EK Xres running my fans the same along with my pump.
1-I don't feel comfortable with the first bullet. I've got a exploring 3 yr old.
2-I haven't tried this one yet
3-2 rads
4-Already did that
5-In order to put my GTX/UT60 into the loop I would have to do a lot of restructuring and end up losing the hdd I was trying to use in the bottom/front of the case.

Should I switch my EK PE 360 to the GTX 360? I cant just swap out the 360 I would lose my 3.5 HDD


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *springs113*
> 
> My temps only drop a marginal 3-5 degrees at most


That is normal. Given the scenario, the case isn't your issue. With the front and top off you have almost no restriction. You definitely have an issue elsewhere. You may want to take this to teh water cooling section.


----------



## springs113

I don't know anymore, I am really considering getting rid of the case and going caselabs sm8, primo, luxe tg, elite. Don't know when the elite is coming but it don't seem likely that it'll be released this year as the luxe will not show itself until the first week of Dec.


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *springs113*
> 
> I don't know anymore, I am really considering getting rid of the case and going caselabs sm8, primo, luxe tg, elite. Don't know when the elite is coming but it don't seem likely that it'll be released this year as the luxe will not show itself until the first week of Dec.


Again, it likely isn't the case. Yes the Evolv has "bad" airflow out of the box, but as my and others temps show, it doesn't have to be this way.

If you are worried about the top and your little havoc wrecker, then you get some velcro strips. Closing off gaps in the top radiator tray will make a difference as well. All these things may seem small by themselves, but add them all up and the difference is huge.


----------



## BinaryBummer

This is why I just go with a huge case. Going with a full tower can allow more air inside allowing the internal temps to be controlled better. It isn't rocket science. Unless you got your flow hooked up backwards you should be able to get your temps under control.

Outside of parking your PC with a AC blowing cold air directly into it or making a server room in the house then case size and ambient temps will dictate just how far the temps will drop.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> Again, it likely isn't the case. Yes the Evolv has "bad" airflow out of the box, but as my and others temps show, it doesn't have to be this way.
> 
> If you are worried about the top and your little havoc wrecker, then you get some velcro strips. Closing off gaps in the top radiator tray will make a difference as well. All these things may seem small by themselves, but add them all up and the difference is huge.


He's getting these awful temps with the front and top _off_. The issues very obviously have absolutely nothing to do with the case. If the OP wants to change cases for no reason, so be it. The act of redoing the loop in a new case may actually fix whatever the actual problem is here.


----------



## springs113

The evolv was always on my list for my next case but the primo was literally my next purchase. I was minutes away from purchasing it and then i checked here and saw the elite video. Waited and waited for that and nothing so i started to look for the next best thing, looks and all. The evolv was a no brainer. Its puzzling cause I've had 3 290Xs running along this same cpu in my 750d case and my temps were much better than this using a gtx/ut60 360mm rads. I'm not expecting a miracle but the last time i remembered idling around these temps i was running a phenom 955 be. I will exhaust all the solutions I've read and also been told to use here, but if i don't see at least a 5 degree improvement. I can't recommend this case at all. I know I'm one person out of many but that's how the word gets out. I am not one to agree and conform.
Below are my current temps after doing more adjustments and also with both the front/top panel off. The first pic is when i started to write this message and the second is after i finish this sentence.

Edit: Fans on full blast


----------



## BinaryBummer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> He's getting these awful temps with the front and top _off_. The issues very obviously have absolutely nothing to do with the case. If the OP wants to change cases for no reason, so be it. The act of redoing the loop in a new case may actually fix whatever the actual problem is here.


Like you say everything has to flow, you can't push air in and have fans removing air in a bad location. Taking the side off or top for that matter won't fix the flow issue. Redesigning the fans or getting a controller to tailor the flow would be more suitable.

Should that not be the case then I would think it is time to look at a bigger better designed case, fans, or settings are excessive.

Other things I see folks do is put a case under a desk or against a wall and there is to much resistance to the fans flow, (being restricted)..


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BinaryBummer*
> 
> Like you say everything has to flow, you can't push air in and have fans removing air in a bad location. Taking the side off or top for that matter won't fix the flow issue. Redesigning the fans or getting a controller to tailor the flow would be more suitable.
> 
> Should that not be the case then I would think it is time to look at a bigger better designed case, fans, or settings are excessive.
> 
> Other things I see folks do is put a case under a desk or against a wall and there is to much resistance to the fans flow, (being restricted)..


I'm not sure I understand you. The front and top covers tend to restrict the airflow the front and top fans can flow .. This means if a Evolv ATX has front and top radiators, it is rather obvious that if the front and top covers are removed the case will flow air much better. In most cases (no pun) the best fan controller is the motherboard and motherboard fan control software.









No idea what you are talking about 'redesigning' the fans.







I've worked R&D for many years, but never got into designing or redesigning fan. I leave that to the fan experts to do.









Under a desk can be restrictive, although it is often not. But setting a case so back or side is facing a wall is rarely a problem. .


----------



## springs113

In my instance my case is in a well ventilated location, the room it is in never goes above 25c. It may actually be the second coldest room in the house(central air). I have done my research well before I bought this case and have read the problems that everyone had as far as airflow was concerned. I also went along with purchasing new fans, I have Corsair MLs and Phanteks HSP fans as well. I also went as far as to use similar rads to what others have done here to make sure my temps aren't ridiculous. Originally purchased the EK SEs and then changed to the PEs trying to minimize every negative. I have done basically 99% of the fixes of what everyone here has tried . It is definitely odd but I am fully testing every resolution at least 2ce to make sure I am not overlooking anything.

Can't remember where @Doyll said it but I could have bought a bigger case... but kids like those, adults wise up and select something like an evolv atx sized case. Yea I know i misquoted you @ Doyll but I think you will remember what I'm talking about once you read it.

@doyll
My last solution to try while maintaining my original setup is to seal the top of the rad bracket with cardboard/tape and see what the difference will be. I'm also going to have to turn my pump speed up and possibly switching my fans off the pwn splitter and connect them individually to my mobo.

The below is with the pump on full blast idling, top off and front on.


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *springs113*
> 
> The below is with the pump on full blast idling, top off and front on.


There is nothing wrong with those temps, even the first one's you posted. Also, I don't know if it was mentioned, but you should get a water temp sensor and tie fan RPM to that. Captain obvious here, water temp is an important indicator of the thermal status of your loop since that is where the heat goes. If your water temps are high then you have a rad/loop/airflow problem... but... if your processor temps are high, the former may not necessarily be the case and it could be other issues at fault. Your water temp should be about 5-8c above ambient at idle and about 10-15c above ambient at load (settings and hardware dependent... and again, that is approximate).

I don't know what kind of temps you consider normal or good but something like processor temps <20c above ambient isn't realistic without a TON of radiator let alone other factors.


----------



## springs113

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> There is nothing wrong with those temps, even the first one's you posted. Also, I don't know if it was mentioned, but you should get a water temp sensor and tie fan RPM to that. Captain obvious here, water temp is an important indicator of the thermal status of your loop since that is where the heat goes. If your water temps are high then you have a rad/loop/airflow problem... but... if your processor temps are high, the former may not necessarily be the case and it could be other issues at fault. Your water temp should be about 5-8c above ambient at idle and about 10-15c above ambient at load (settings and hardware dependent... and again, that is approximate).
> 
> I don't know what kind of temps you consider normal or good but something like processor temps <20c above ambient isn't realistic without a TON of radiator let alone other factors.


I don't think you realize what i said about the last few temp readings i posted those are at full blast(noise on steroids) 2 were with the front n top off and the last was with the top only off. I am comparing same setups within a different case that's where I'm basing my tolerance level. I expect a certain result and i don't think I'm being vain at all...50c idle is insane for any water setup.


----------



## mp1380

I've been having thermal issues as well in my Enthoo Evolve ATX case. While playing Overwatch, my MSI r9 290x is hitting 90C. Once I took off the front glass panel, the temperatures dropped to around 80C. The fan configuration I'm using now has 3 120mm intakes in the front, a H100i V2 exhausting through the top, and a 120mm exhaust in the rear.

I'm going to try different fan configurations to see if that will fix the issue before I try modding the case somehow. I'm hoping just adding a 3rd exhaust fan up top could prevent the air from the top chamber recirculating in the main chamber.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mp1380*
> 
> I've been having thermal issues as well in my Enthoo Evolve ATX case. While playing Overwatch, my MSI r9 290x is hitting 90C. Once I took off the front glass panel, the temperatures dropped to around 80C. The fan configuration I'm using now has 3 120mm intakes in the front, a H100i V2 exhausting through the top, and a 120mm exhaust in the rear.
> 
> I'm going to try different fan configurations to see if that will fix the issue before I try modding the case somehow. I'm hoping just adding a 3rd exhaust fan up top could prevent the air from the top chamber recirculating in the main chamber.


If you have not sealed the top, the H100 is not exhausting at all. It is merely circulating it's exhaust back into the main chamber for the GPU to use as intake, which would account for the high temps (along with the simple fact that it is a 290X). You need to isolate your top as below:


----------



## mp1380

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> If you have not sealed the top, the H100 is not exhausting at all. It is merely circulating it's exhaust back into the main chamber for the GPU to use as intake, which would account for the high temps (along with the simple fact that it is a 290X). You need to isolate your top as below:


Covering up the open areas was definitely on my list of things to try. I was just hoping it would be as simple as filling in all 3 fan slots. Has that already proven to be futile?


----------



## springs113

To further elaborate, i will be covering up the the little gaps between the rad bracket n case, the 3 little sections that protrude out the bracket. I currently have my pump at about 80
% running valley for about 2 hrs with the top off. Once that is done i will close those areas up.

Just finished my Valley run...


The below pic if after taping off the radiator bracket and after 15 minutes of the computer idling.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mp1380*
> 
> Covering up the open areas was definitely on my list of things to try. I was just hoping it would be as simple as filling in all 3 fan slots. Has that already proven to be futile?


Adding a fan typically worsens the situation. You are then trying to force even more air into a restrictive area.

If you are getting that much temp drop taking off the front, you may want to try the simple mod that moves the front panel out slightly with spacers. Also, using three 120mm intakes rather than two 140mm is actually getting you less air into the main chamber of the case.


----------



## BinaryBummer

Got the case today and done it up. Plugged it all up and so far all is working. I am wondering what method is best for the Lepa 240 to be plugged up as?

I have the CPU pump plugged into a Drive cable rather then CPU or Water Cooler fan socket. Both fans are on the Phanteks power board.

I am open to methods that works best.

Cheers!

Derp forgot a pic..


----------



## Necrodox

Does anyone have tips on getting the fan hub controller to work properly? I'm having trouble controlling my fans via Speed Fan.

I have 6 fans with two 3 fan splitters that taper into a single 3 pin connector.


----------



## BinaryBummer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Necrodox*
> 
> Does anyone have tips on getting the fan hub controller to work properly? I'm having trouble controlling my fans via Speed Fan.
> 
> I have 6 fans with two 3 fan splitters that taper into a single 3 pin connector.


O am in question for the best method ATM as well.

Here is what I tried.

I have a Lepa 240 Aqua AIO and this may very from Air.

Ok I started out connecting my Water Cooler plugin direct to a Drive power cable to be sure it has straight power. Then I had the twin cooler fans connected with a 2 to 1 connector then I put this in the Power Hub CPU1 and moved the Front Case Fan to the CPU2 on the power hub. (Note I did NOT hook up the SATA power to the Power Hub. I left this unplugged)
I then connected the Power Hub to the CPU_Fan header on the Mobo.

This works but I am trying a different method now

Currently I reconfigured like this.
Aqua Cooler power plug to the W_Out on motherboard. (just be sure this is enabled int he BIOS at least default PWM and 600rpm etc.)
I reconnected the 2 in 1 connector for my rad fans to the CPU_Fan header on the Mobo
I then took the Power Hub CPU connector and used the CPU_Opt header on the Mobo

(Do note I did try this with the Power Hub SATA hooked up first and the "CPU Connector Disconnected" and my fans did NOT spin, neither Front and rear fans.) So I reconfigured to the above settings.

Now I think if you want the AI Suite 3 to control things more so then you may need to plug each fan into a Mobo header separately.

I am in the process of wanting to OC this machine but without knowing the best control for my CPU fan/s and pump I dare not the risk. I mean it is working now and the pump is running at 2556 RPM full throttle.

Well onward with some tryouts.

P.S. I think one way to hood the header up can make your fans run 100% all the time. This I don't want either. Maybe I don't understand the Power Hub yet. I just don't know if i can plug the CPU Connector into the Mobo and the SATA connector at the same time. I don't want to fry anything.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Necrodox*
> 
> Does anyone have tips on getting the fan hub controller to work properly? I'm having trouble controlling my fans via Speed Fan.
> 
> I have 6 fans with two 3 fan splitters that taper into a single 3 pin connector.


From your description it sounds like you are using fan splitters, not a fan hub.
What are these splitter plugged into? What fan header? What motherboard? What case ?? because your sig system is in a little sailboat case.


----------



## mrpurplehawk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BinaryBummer*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


That optical drive seems a bit out of place









I like the system though


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Necrodox*
> 
> Does anyone have tips on getting the fan hub controller to work properly? I'm having trouble controlling my fans via Speed Fan.
> 
> I have 6 fans with two 3 fan splitters that taper into a single 3 pin connector.


Yes, but without knowing what MB you are using it's impossible to be specific.

Essentially, plug the PWM cable of the hub into a fan header that has a PWM signal. The fact that the header is 4-pin does not necessarily mean that there is a PWM signal. Make sure that header is set to PWM in BIOS. Plug the SATA cable into the PSU. Plug the fans into the header, making sure that the one you need speed feedback from is in channel 1.

That is really all there is to it. If you have an ASUS board, you will want to use Q-Fan *Tuning* if it has that option in order to get use of the full rpm range and make control easier.


----------



## Scotty99

Should you even use a hub if you have an asus board? Iirc asus software is able to control 3 pin fans as if they are pwm.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scotty99*
> 
> Should you even use a hub if you have an asus board? Iirc asus software is able to control 3 pin fans as if they are pwm.


Obviously it would depend on what you are doing. I use five fans on the hub for rad and intake, one intake strictly for HDD on another channel, and exhaust on another.


----------



## Scotty99

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Obviously it would depend on what you are doing. I use five fans on the hub for rad and intake, one intake strictly for HDD on another channel, and exhaust on another.


You could do all that with the asus software as well, all fully configurable.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scotty99*
> 
> You could do all that with the asus software as well, all fully configurable.


I use Thermal Radar. No clue what you are talking about since we aren't talking about software. The point is not hanging five fans off one header.

Also forgot to mention the pump on another PWM header. That is four headers, four individual fan curves.


----------



## Scotty99

What you are doing with hardware can be done with software is what i am saying, its redundant to have both.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scotty99*
> 
> What you are doing with hardware can be done with software is what i am saying, its redundant to have both.


No, it can't. You are completely confused between what hardware and software do. The software controls the hardware. I am using ASUS Thermal Radar to control the hardware. There is no software that makes powering five high speed fans from a single MB header a good idea.

So, tell me. How is it redundant to have software controlling a fan hub? Should I simply stop using three fans so I don't have to use a hub? Or should I start putting fans in pairs that should not be running on the same curve in order to not overload the MB, and just have all the fan curves not to my liking?

Please tell me how to run the following four fan channels safely (not more than two fans per header), with individual control for each, with four available headers with no PWM hub:

1. Five rad/intake fans
2. D5 PWM Pump
3. HDD intake fan
4. Exhaust fan

There is _nothing_ redundant happening.


----------



## Scotty99

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> No, it can't. You are completely confused between what hardware and software do. The software controls the hardware. I am using ASUS Thermal Radar to control the hardware. There is no software that makes powering five high speed fans from a single MB header a good idea.
> 
> So, tell me. How is it redundant to have software controlling a fan hub? Should I simply stop using three fans so I don't have to use a hub? Or should I start putting fans in pairs that should not be running on the same curve in order to not overload the MB, and just have all the fan curves not to my liking?
> 
> Please tell me how to run the following four fan channels safely (not more than two fans per header), with individual control for each, with four available headers with no PWM hub:
> 
> 1. Five rad/intake fans
> 2. D5 PWM Pump
> 3. HDD intake fan
> 4. Exhaust fan
> 
> There is _nothing_ redundant happening.


SImmer down my dude, i was merely saying you can set up the software to run in channels. A lot of the high end asus boards have a lot of MB fan headers, but clearly that wouldnt work for you. For the average person, running an asus board AND the phanteks hub is truly redundant.


----------



## BinaryBummer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mrpurplehawk*
> 
> That optical drive seems a bit out of place
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I like the system though


Yes it is. I removed the black from but afterwards I realized that this white/yellowed is not even for this drive. It goes to another older lightscribe external drive. I have tried to use the external but the hardwares firmware is to old and refuses to work.

I may just go back to the black face again.


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BinaryBummer*
> 
> Yes it is. I removed the black from but afterwards I realized that this white/yellowed is not even for this drive. It goes to another older lightscribe external drive. I have tried to use the external but the hardwares firmware is to old and refuses to work.
> 
> I may just go back to the black face again.


Yeah I have to say your build looks good, but that old yellowish DVD drive is killing it.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scotty99*
> 
> SImmer down my dude, i was merely saying you can set up the software to run in channels. A lot of the high end asus boards have a lot of MB fan headers, but clearly that wouldnt work for you. For the average person, running an asus board AND the phanteks hub is truly redundant.


Seriously? I can't make the point any more clear, and you obviously have no interest in knowing why it is not redundant in any way, shape or form in it's intended usage.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rfarmer*
> 
> Yeah I have to say your build looks good, but that old yellowish DVD drive is killing it.


When I had the white Luxe and Evolv ATX here and was trying to decide between the two, that was a huge sticking point for me. Plus, I hated the optical covers. I even made a solid cover and omitted the optical drive, but I still didn't like the look. Almost went as far as switching to a white bayres, but then I drew the line and just went with the Evolv ATX. But, functionally, I liked the Luxe a lot better.


----------



## BinaryBummer

The case is alright, has enough space behind for cables, but one thing I ran into was the Lepa 240 was pushing on the one stick of ram so I turned it around. Now the Lepa is upside down and the hose goes over the top of it. Might try to redo all of it someday in the future.

I am going to go back with the black dvd/cd faceplate, they yellow just don't do it and it is the wrong face for this drive. I need to order a newer USB drive to have on hand.


----------



## luukelbo

Today i had some time to finish my mods om the evolv Mini






























Verstuurd vanaf mijn Nexus 6P met Tapatalk


----------



## Necrodox

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> From your description it sounds like you are using fan splitters, not a fan hub.
> What are these splitter plugged into? What fan header? What motherboard? What case ?? because your sig system is in a little sailboat case.


Apologies, I always forget this is a general Phanteks thread and not just the Enthoo Evolv haha. The case is an Entho Evolv ATX TG and I'm using the included fan hub located in the cable side of the case. I have three fans in the front and three fans at the top of the case. Each set of 3 is connected to a splitter which tapers down into a single 3 pin. These two splitters are inside FAN2 and FAN3 (these two headers are powering six fans in this case). My single rear exhaust fan is hooked up to FAN1. The fans work fine, but I cannot adjust the speeds at all (running at 100% at all times).

They're powered via the included SATA power cable, the motherboard is an ASUS Maximus Extreme-Z Z68. Thanks!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Yes, but without knowing what MB you are using it's impossible to be specific.
> 
> Essentially, plug the PWM cable of the hub into a fan header that has a PWM signal. The fact that the header is 4-pin does not necessarily mean that there is a PWM signal. Make sure that header is set to PWM in BIOS. Plug the SATA cable into the PSU. Plug the fans into the header, making sure that the one you need speed feedback from is in channel 1.
> 
> That is really all there is to it. If you have an ASUS board, you will want to use Q-Fan *Tuning* if it has that option in order to get use of the full rpm range and make control easier.


Understood, the motherboard is an ASUS Extreme-Z Z68. I was actually researching this last night and came to the same conclusion you detailed. The only thing I haven't done is check to see if PWM is actually set within the BIOS. I'll be sure to do that today and report back, thanks!


----------



## Dooxy

I am interested in this case for my first ever water cooling build. what tickness of the rads can you have in top and in front with out to much clearing issue? 240mm i says in the manual but realistically thickness? no more then 60mm in top i assume?


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dooxy*
> 
> I am interested in this case for my first ever water cooling build. what tickness of the rads can you have in top and in front with out to much clearing issue? 240mm i says in the manual but realistically thickness? no more then 60mm in top i assume?


Which Phanteks case in particular?


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dooxy*
> 
> I am interested in this case for my first ever water cooling build. what tickness of the rads can you have in top and in front with out to much clearing issue? 240mm i says in the manual but realistically thickness? no more then 60mm in top i assume?


What ciarlatano said.








"This case" only means it is one of many cases in Phanteks line.


----------



## springs113

I'm going to assume he's talking bout the Evolv, if so I currently have a Nemesis GTX 360 in the top of mine with fans as well. A 240 or 280 will suffice for the front, but go with a 280.


----------



## Dooxy

I am intrested in this case for my firest ever watercooling build.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Which Phanteks case in particular?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> What ciarlatano said.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> "This case" only means it is one of many cases in Phanteks line.


haha! yes ofc i was looking at Phanteks Enthoo EVOLV ITX i did post this in my water cooling tread. i assume you guys responded there as well !


----------



## springs113

It's alright I assumed wrong as well. I'm not too familiar with that case but I believe if you go on youtube check out Kyles channel BITWIT. I believe he did a build with that case. watercooled and all.


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dooxy*
> 
> I am intrested in this case for my firest ever watercooling build.
> 
> haha! yes ofc i was looking at Phanteks Enthoo EVOLV ITX i did post this in my water cooling tread. i assume you guys responded there as well !


I would go with two Nemesis GTS 240 rads with the top being x flow and the front being u flow. Res and pump are whatever fits.


----------



## Dooxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *springs113*
> 
> It's alright I assumed wrong as well. I'm not too familiar with that case but I believe if you go on youtube check out Kyles channel BITWIT. I believe he did a build with that case. watercooled and all.


I have seen this channel he does not have a full WC build. but close to i fan find some images on google. but not with the stuff i want to build. I know i can fit 2x240 in it. the question is just what size, slim i think both in top and especially in the front. i think i might need to investigate in a shorter card however. currently am looking at the gtx 1070 but i found some post that is showing lots of issue overclocking that card. but that is for another topic.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> I would go with two Nemesis GTS 240 rads with the top being x flow and the front being u flow. Res and pump are whatever fits.


ill check the the out! thanks.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dooxy*
> 
> haha! yes ofc i was looking at Phanteks Enthoo EVOLV ITX i did post this in my water cooling tread. i assume you guys responded there as well !


Some of us will, some will not, and some (like me) have a hard time keeping track of what day it is, let alone remember what some user's name is and what case they are interested in.


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dooxy*
> 
> I am interested in this case for my first ever water cooling build. what tickness of the rads can you have in top and in front with out to much clearing issue? 240mm i says in the manual but realistically thickness? no more then 60mm in top i assume?


The front radiator is limited by the mid plate cutout, unless you want to notch it out keep the radiator no more than 30mm thick and 125mm wide. I had a Black Ice Nemesis in mine and it worked very well but at 133mm wide I had to notch the mid plate in order to make it fit. The top radiator I would keep as thin and short as possible for a couple reasons. It is offset enough that clearance with the motherboard isn't a problem, but if you go with anything thicker than 45mm you should be using push/pull fans and there really isn't enough room. The top front corner where the 2 radiators meet can be very close, keep the radiator as short and thin as possible will make fitting 2 easier. The Evolv itx suffers from the same airflow issues as it's bigger brother so you are better off getting a radiator with low fpi count and lower pressure fans. I had a Swiftech H220-X in the top of mine and it cooled fine, but people with EK Predators have real cooling problems.

As far as the overclocking on the 1070's goes the issue is related to Micron memory vs Samsung. Get a Founders Edition, they all have Samsung memory and OC very well. Recent updates from vendors with new bios for the Micron memory has shown much improved memory OC.


----------



## Dooxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rfarmer*
> 
> The Evolv itx suffers from the same airflow issues as it's bigger brother so you are better off getting a radiator with low fpi count and lower pressure fans. I had a Swiftech H220-X in the top of mine and it cooled fine, but people with EK Predators have real cooling problems.
> 
> As far as the overclocking on the 1070's goes the issue is related to Micron memory vs Samsung. Get a Founders Edition, they all have Samsung memory and OC very well. Recent updates from vendors with new bios for the Micron memory has shown much improved memory OC.


Wait what how can that even be an issue if you are water cooling? if i run both the rads with push and just install a fan in the back to get some air in. would that not e enough?

yeah i was thinking of GF GTX 1070 AERO 8G OC its one of the cheapest on i could find i think that would do the trick.


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dooxy*
> 
> Wait what how can that even be an issue if you are water cooling? if i run both the rads with push and just install a fan in the back to get some air in. would that not e enough?
> 
> yeah i was thinking of GF GTX 1070 AERO 8G OC its one of the cheapest on i could find i think that would do the trick.


It's a case of restriction, you can only push so much air out of the top of the case. If the fans are pushing too much air it will blow down around the radiator back into the case, feeding hotter air into the radiator.

You are talking about having a single 120 or 140mm fan as intake with 280mm total exhaust, you will be starving the radiators of air.

If I had mine to do again this is what I would do. 240mm radiator at the top, BlackIce Nemesis GTS 240 is an excellent choice. 120mm radiator at the back of the case both radiators set as exhaust. Put 2 good 140mm fans in the front as intake. This way you have good airflow into the case and the radiators are set to exhaust, not bringing additional heat into the case.




First pic is how I had it set up at first, with the H220-X and 120mm radiator at the rear, second was when I added a 240mm radiator to the front. My temps got no better with the 240mm at the front, I am sure that is due to adding the additional heat from the front radiator.


----------



## Dooxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rfarmer*
> 
> You are talking about having a single 120 or 140mm fan as intake with 280mm total exhaust, you will be starving the radiators of air.


Is there an good guide or keyword i can use to google more in to that? like air is every ware how can the push config push to much? would the could you not simply do one push and one rad pull?


----------



## paskowitz

I would also add putting the PSU fan on the top as a case exhaust. This combined with the rear fan will likely result in negative pressure (just cut some custom dust filters), but at least you will be exhausting a good amount of hot air from the front rad.


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dooxy*
> 
> Is there an good guide or keyword i can use to google more in to that? like air is every ware how can the push config push to much? would the could you not simply do one push and one rad pull?


Actually made a typo, meant 240mm exhaust rather than 280mm. Look back one page for one of doyll's posts and click on the link "Ways to Better Cooling". #5 is a good one, Setting up a case for optimum cooling. doyll is a genius for fan arrangement and case cooling.


----------



## Dooxy

Am not at home so sitting on my tiny Phone I can't find the post


----------



## BinaryBummer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rfarmer*
> 
> Actually made a typo, meant 240mm exhaust rather than 280mm. Look back one page for one of doyll's posts and click on the link "Ways to Better Cooling". #5 is a good one, Setting up a case for optimum cooling. doyll is a genius for fan arrangement and case cooling.


Its a nice rig, I see your point and what you have there is why I always go with a full tower just to have the extra space.

Cases are important just like selection of many components. Processors, well if your new at things and buying most will select one and buy it not knowing the actual code can be a crap one of a golden chip.

I am thinking I should go with a 420mm rad system now. But I am going to work on this next mod covering the opened top area in to allow the fans to draw out without the matter of the air drawing back in.

I think it is also questionable even if the paint they spray on them effects the dissipation of heat to.

Cheers!


----------



## Dooxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BinaryBummer*
> 
> Its a nice rig, I see your point and what you have there is why I always go with a full tower just to have the extra space.
> 
> Cases are important just like selection of many components. Processors, well if your new at things and buying most will select one and buy it not knowing the actual code can be a crap one of a golden chip.
> 
> I am thinking I should go with a 420mm rad system now. But I am going to work on this next mod covering the opened top area in to allow the fans to draw out without the matter of the air drawing back in.
> 
> I think it is also questionable even if the paint they spray on them effects the dissipation of heat to.
> 
> Cheers!


Where would you fit that or are you talking about a atx? Yes its easier going big but it's also bulk and take space and often to much dead apace inside the case. I personally am forking out alot of cash and don't want to be disappointed on the performance.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dooxy*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *rfarmer*
> 
> The Evolv itx suffers from the same airflow issues as it's bigger brother so you are better off getting a radiator with low fpi count and lower pressure fans. I had a Swiftech H220-X in the top of mine and it cooled fine, but people with EK Predators have real cooling problems.
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Dooxy*
> 
> Wait what how can that even be an issue if you are water cooling? if i run both the rads with push and just install a fan in the back to get some air in. would that not e enough?
> 
> yeah i was thinking of GF GTX 1070 AERO 8G OC its one of the cheapest on i could find i think that would do the trick.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> It's not better to use low fin count radiators and low pressure fans.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lower pressure fans mean less airflow against resistance, so in a restrictive case they flow even less air.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Radiator fin count is not a problem either. Higher fin count only means needing higher pressure fans to overcome added fin resistance.
Click to expand...


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> It's not better to use low fin count radiators and low pressure fans.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lower pressure fans mean less airflow against resistance, so in a restrictive case they flow even less air.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Radiator fin count is not a problem either. Higher fin count only means needing higher pressure fans to overcome added fin resistance.


Actually, what @rfarmer is pointing out is correct, the way he put it is what threw you off. In essence.....lower fpi rads that are designed to cool better with lower airflow do much better in restrictive environments since they don't require as much air pressure to do the job. The Swiftech vs Predator is a great example - we see issues with the Predators in Evolv cases all the time, while the Swiftechs work well for this very reason.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Actually, what @rfarmer is pointing out is correct, the way he put it is what threw you off. In essence.....lower fpi rads that are designed to cool better with lower airflow do much better in restrictive environments since they don't require as much air pressure to do the job. The Swiftech vs Predator is a great example - we see issues with the Predators in Evolv cases all the time, while the Swiftechs work well for this very reason.


I agree, radiators with lower overall airflow requirements are needed in restrictive applications, but not lower pressure rated fans.


----------



## BinaryBummer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dooxy*
> 
> Where would you fit that or are you talking about a atx? Yes its easier going big but it's also bulk and take space and often to much dead apace inside the case. I personally am forking out alot of cash and don't want to be disappointed on the performance.


The 420mm rad could fit int he top BUT it still eans measurment to be sure that it can clear the memory. At that I looking at it and it don't even look possible. My Rad right now looks as if it won't hold a 2nd fan for pushing since it is going to be interfered buy the EATX 8 pin plug.

I need to go back to the table with this to see. Outside of that maybe remove the whole top from the PC and lay it above.


----------



## Dooxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Actually, what @rfarmer is pointing out is correct, the way he put it is what threw you off. In essence.....lower fpi rads that are designed to cool better with lower airflow do much better in restrictive environments since they don't require as much air pressure to do the job. The Swiftech vs Predator is a great example - we see issues with the Predators in Evolv cases all the time, while the Swiftechs work well for this very reason.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> I agree, radiators with lower overall airflow requirements are needed in restrictive applications, but not lower pressure rated fans.


Well the hard part for me is figuring out what question to ask to solve this issue i am getting thrown at me. First i am new to water cooling and i have check lots of guides and youtube vids. None of them never really talk about this kind of topics. they just show you how to install plan a build and avoid leaks.

Trust me if i could have some one say buy this and that to start with and why i would buy this and that i would be happy to so i could get an example.
in this case it straight foreword. am am building a itx build or matx. that can pack one hell of a punch and its almost impossible to over heat and is silent.

Do this mean 700RPM fans? maybe not does that mean 3000rpm fans? no ofc not thats way to load. am i aiming to overklick to 600000ghz nope. i want to push as much as my system can cool. if that is maybe 4.6 them awesome!









what am getting at is i don't want to just go and buy a bunch of stuff that "fits" but then is not doing the job.









So yeah that that make any sense? maybe its my English.


----------



## BinaryBummer

Fan noise is a concern as it gets loud like a noise from a small window air conditioner blowing. More fans more noise may be expected. I guess thats why you try to choose a high efficient fan with good static pressures with low noise. (trade offs)

In the end some of us needs to look at others builds in order to see what works with a case and so forth.

Sure we can spend your money but that would no be your design. Good components when stacked up can make for some nice builds, but skim or foolish spending can set you back.


----------



## Dooxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BinaryBummer*
> 
> Fan noise is a concern as it gets loud like a noise from a small window air conditioner blowing. More fans more noise may be expected. I guess thats why you try to choose a high efficient fan with good static pressures with low noise. (trade offs)
> 
> In the end some of us needs to look at others builds in order to see what works with a case and so forth.
> 
> Sure we can spend your money but that would no be your design. Good components when stacked up can make for some nice builds, but skim or foolish spending can set you back.


yeah looking in to builds that is all ready done thats what am doing. but i just need help to finalize it.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> I agree, radiators with lower overall airflow requirements are needed in restrictive applications, but not lower pressure rated fans.


Well, no, of course not. I can't think of any situation where lower pressure fans would be preferable.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dooxy*
> 
> First i am new to water cooling and i have check lots of guides and youtube vids. None of them never really talk about this kind of topics. they just show you how to install plan a build and avoid leaks.


Stop watching YT vids. 90% of them are made by people who know less than you do right now.


----------



## Dooxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Well, no, of course not. I can't think of any situation where lower pressure fans would be preferable.
> Stop watching YT vids. 90% of them are made by people who know less than you do right now.


haha okay! but to make my dream true where should i start then? should i consider going for a bigger case even if i don't want to? or should i just go for a something like Hardware Labs Nemesis GTS both 240? the 360 got a really good feedback on http://www.xtremerigs.net/2015/02/11/radiator-round-2015/10/ maybe if i up the fans to 1300-1850? i could get away with the case and the hardware?
i think it was you that pointed out in a earlier post that there are difference between fan's and fan's right?


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dooxy*
> 
> haha okay! but to make my dream true where should i start then? should i consider going for a bigger case even if i don't want to? or should i just go for a something like Hardware Labs Nemesis GTS both 240? the 360 got a really good feedback on http://www.xtremerigs.net/2015/02/11/radiator-round-2015/10/ maybe if i up the fans to 1300-1850? i could get away with the case and the hardware?
> i think it was you that pointed out in a earlier post that there are difference between fan's and fan's right?


You could consider an Evolv ATX. It's a mid tower, but not huge. I run a single 360 GTS with all fans at 800 rpm on CPU and GPU and have excellent performance with near silence.


----------



## TheWizardMan

I've fallen in love with the Luxe TG and I was hoping you guys could help me with a few questions (which I believe are probably answered throughout this massive thread, but I couldn't find the answers):


When is the Luxe TG expected to be available for purchase? I saw one post suggesting the first week of December, but can anyone confirm this or at least provide a little bit more speculation?

Will a 240 mm Monsta fit in the front of the case in push / pull configuration? I understand that you would lose the HDD bays, which is fine.

Will a 420 mm rad that is 45 mm thick fit in the top of the case in push / pull configuration? I've seen reviews on the old Luxe that suggest that the top clearance is between 69 - 70 mm, suggest that it would be a tight fit (with the pull fans being placed in the top compartment).

I've read of people having problems fitting the EK-XRES D5 in this case. Is this really an issue, or does it just require some creativity?
Again, apologies in advance for my laziness if this has been covered elsewhere.


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheWizardMan*
> 
> I've fallen in love with the Luxe TG and I was hoping you guys could help me with a few questions (which I believe are probably answered throughout this massive thread, but I couldn't find the answers):
> 
> 
> When is the Luxe TG expected to be available for purchase? I saw one post suggesting the first week of December, but can anyone confirm this or at least provide a little bit more speculation?
> 
> Will a 240 mm Monsta fit in the front of the case in push / pull configuration? I understand that you would lose the HDD bays, which is fine.
> 
> Will a 420 mm rad that is 45 mm thick fit in the top of the case in push / pull configuration? I've seen reviews on the old Luxe that suggest that the top clearance is between 69 - 70 mm, suggest that it would be a tight fit (with the pull fans being placed in the top compartment).
> 
> I've read of people having problems fitting the EK-XRES D5 in this case. Is this really an issue, or does it just require some creativity?
> Again, apologies in advance for my laziness if this has been covered elsewhere.


1. the case is supposed to be available this month. knowing Phanteks I'd expect January or even February of 2017.
2. yes, any and all 240 rads will fit in the front, no limit on thickness.
3. for 420 rads in push/pull I'm calling the limit 40 mm thick.


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Actually, what @rfarmer is pointing out is correct, the way he put it is what threw you off. In essence.....lower fpi rads that are designed to cool better with lower airflow do much better in restrictive environments since they don't require as much air pressure to do the job. The Swiftech vs Predator is a great example - we see issues with the Predators in Evolv cases all the time, while the Swiftechs work well for this very reason.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> I agree, radiators with lower overall airflow requirements are needed in restrictive applications, but not lower pressure rated fans.


Thanks for clearing that up, I knew that I wasn't explaining it very well.


----------



## TheWizardMan

false
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PureBlackFire*
> 
> 1. the case is supposed to be available this month. knowing Phanteks I'd expect January or even February of 2017.
> 2. yes, any and all 240 rads will fit in the front, no limit on thickness.
> 3. for 420 rads in push/pull I'm calling the limit 40 mm thick.


Thanks, this is super helpful!

Do you have a sense of whether there would be enough space to access the drain hole on the bottom of the rad?


----------



## PureBlackFire

depends on the length of the rad.


----------



## springs113

I spoke to phanteks today the case is suppose to be available either the last week of this month or the first week of December. Not familiar with the Luxe's layout but if the xres can fit into the Evolv I'm almost certain it should fit in the Luxe.


----------



## TheWizardMan

Thanks for all the help guys. This will be my first build and I'm trying to get everything planned out in advance!


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Well, no, of course not. I can't think of any situation where lower pressure fans would be preferable.
> Stop watching YT vids. 90% of them are made by people who know less than you do right now.


INdeed!








I think the term 'lower fin count' is too general. Granted, 23 fpi is too many for easy airflow. But Is 13 fpi to dense? or 8 fpi? And while most high fin count radiators are inefficient, the problem is really not the fin count, but the efficiency of the radiator.

But I'm getting to detailed .. again.









I agree, Dooxy needs to find a few knowledgeable water cooling people (like you) and stop watching youtube / reading everyone's replies.

Like you said, little bigger case like Evolv ATX or maybe one with more venting like Pro or Pro M would be a better choice.

Evolv = 230 mm x 450 mm x 400 mm (W x H x D)
Evolv ATX = 235 mm x 495 mm x 510 mm (W x H x D)
That is only 5mm wider & 45mm higher, but 110 deeper.

Other cases Dooxy might consider:
Enthoo Pro M = 235 mm x 480 mm high x 500 mm deep.
Enthoo Pro is only slightly bigger; 235 x 535 x 550 (WxHxD mm)


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dooxy*
> 
> Well the hard part for me is figuring out what question to ask to solve this issue i am getting thrown at me. First i am new to water cooling and i have check lots of guides and youtube vids. None of them never really talk about this kind of topics. they just show you how to install plan a build and avoid leaks.
> 
> Trust me if i could have some one say buy this and that to start with and why i would buy this and that i would be happy to so i could get an example.
> in this case it straight foreword. am am building a itx build or matx. that can pack one hell of a punch and its almost impossible to over heat and is silent.
> 
> Do this mean 700RPM fans? maybe not does that mean 3000rpm fans? no ofc not thats way to load. am i aiming to overklick to 600000ghz nope. i want to push as much as my system can cool. if that is maybe 4.6 them awesome!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> what am getting at is i don't want to just go and buy a bunch of stuff that "fits" but then is not doing the job.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So yeah that that make any sense? maybe its my English.


Like I said above, find a few people that know what they are talking about to help you. As ciarlatano said, most youtube vids and posters know less about how it really works than you do.

In general use 120mm fans can spin 1000-1300rpm at near silent levels, 140mm fans can spin 900-1100rpm at near silent levels. But I recommend having 120mm fans with an rpm range of about 500-2000rpm and 140mm fans 400-1800rpm. Their idle speed is more important maximum speed. We want our systems at low load to be silent or at lest very quiet. At 100% CPU and GPU load most of us are okay with being able to hear the fans and airflow being a little louder than background noise of room. Assuming that is 120mm fans @ 1400rpm or 140mm fans @ 1100rpm, I like having fans with 400-600rpm more rpm available so if weather is very hot, filters are dirty, etc. the systen will still cool well at full load and only be a little louder doing it.








Your English is fine.


----------



## pez

I wish Phanteks would release another mATX case







. The Fractal Mini C is super attractive for what I want to do with my (soon-to-be) home server.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pez*
> 
> I wish Phanteks would release another mATX case
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . The Fractal Mini C is super attractive for what I want to do with my (soon-to-be) home server.


You're a pagen! FD in Phanteks thread!















Why all these mATX cases when an extra 61mm in height w/ 2 more PCIe slots and ATX would fit.








Mini C is 210 x 412 x 413 mm
I love the smaller footprint, just want the added 61mm / 2x PCIe.









I would really like to see the Mini XL case with ATX / EATX layout.
It's 260 mm x 550 mm x 480 mm (W x H x D). The 260 mm width could give 60mm behind mobo tray for drives and cable management and still allow 180mm CPU clearance. 70mm with 170mm CPU clearance.


----------



## Dooxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> You could consider an Evolv ATX. It's a mid tower, but not huge. I run a single 360 GTS with all fans at 800 rpm on CPU and GPU and have excellent performance with near silence.


yes that is true but what is the fun in that! also i want to small rig that takes no space. i can live with some sound i understand that it can't be 100% silent. i just want it to be in between. not hearing it when i watch a movie or when am sitting in the room. obviously if i sit next to it then some sound will be there.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Like I said above, find a few people that know what they are talking about to help you. As ciarlatano said, most youtube vids and posters know less about how it really works than you do.
> 
> In general use 120mm fans can spin 1000-1300rpm at near silent levels, 140mm fans can spin 900-1100rpm at near silent levels. But I recommend having 120mm fans with an rpm range of about 500-2000rpm and 140mm fans 400-1800rpm. Their idle speed is more important maximum speed. We want our systems at low load to be silent or at lest very quiet. At 100% CPU and GPU load most of us are okay with being able to hear the fans and airflow being a little louder than background noise of room. Assuming that is 120mm fans @ 1400rpm or 140mm fans @ 1100rpm, I like having fans with 400-600rpm more rpm available so if weather is very hot, filters are dirty, etc. the systen will still cool well at full load and only be a little louder doing it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Your English is fine.


realistically could a system run 1300rpm with 2x 240 rads are around 30mm tick silent and cooled? or should you aim for 1300rpm idelish and 1800 for max load? to be honest i just don't really know how load 1850 would be. i am so use to treble stock fans of a HD7970 sniping when i play games. This is one of many keypoints why i want to get in to water cooling.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dooxy*
> 
> yes that is true but what is the fun in that! also i want to small rig that takes no space. i can live with some sound i understand that it can't be 100% silent. i just want it to be in between. not hearing it when i watch a movie or when am sitting in the room. obviously if i sit next to it then some sound will be there.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> realistically could a system run 1300rpm with 2x 240 rads are around 30mm tick silent and cooled? or should you aim for 1300rpm idelish and 1800 for max load? to be honest i just don't really know how load 1850 would be. i am so use to treble stock fans of a HD7970 sniping when i play games. This is one of many keypoints why i want to get in to water cooling.


I think that is realistic, but ask ciarlatano to be sure. I think the 1300rpm may be higher than fans will run when surfing web or watch a movie. I would think watching a movie is not as critical for computer noise level as reading a book or surfing the web. For example, my room ambient noise level is about 30db (consider a quiet room) but when watching a movie that raises at least a few db .. unless there is no sound at all coming from movie.


----------



## Dooxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> I think that is realistic, but ask ciarlatano to be sure. I think the 1300rpm may be higher than fans will run when surfing web or watch a movie. I would think watching a movie is not as critical for computer noise level as reading a book or surfing the web. For example, my room ambient noise level is about 30db (consider a quiet room) but when watching a movie that raises at least a few db .. unless there is no sound at all coming from movie.


wow this is getting kind of down to micro details now! so 1300is lowed? why am putting it that was i because my current air cooling system is like a jet engine and am kind of use to it. But i would like less of noise...









the more i post the more am starting of thinking of a case with 2x 420 rads just to avoid all the issue. i could run freaking 600 rpm fans.... i would have zero negative pressure in a case like that i could mount 2x pumps because apparently that is an issue when you buy radiators...
















i don't want to be it super tempting to just give up and go that route...









who is ciarlatano?


----------



## pez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> You're a pagen! FD in Phanteks thread!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Why all these mATX cases when an extra 61mm in height w/ 2 more PCIe slots and ATX would fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mini C is 210 x 412 x 413 mm
> I love the smaller footprint, just want the added 61mm / 2x PCIe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I would really like to see the Mini XL case with ATX / EATX layout.
> It's 260 mm x 550 mm x 480 mm (W x H x D). The 260 mm width could give 60mm behind mobo tray for drives and cable management and still allow 180mm CPU clearance. 70mm with 170mm CPU clearance.


Yeah, ultimately the Mini C does not work either because of lack of drive support. But I just want Phanteks to revisit mATX again







. For now my cheapy case I got from a TigerDirect closeout will have to do







.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dooxy*
> 
> wow this is getting kind of down to micro details now! so 1300is lowed? why am putting it that was i because my current air cooling system is like a jet engine and am kind of use to it. But i would like less of noise...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> the more i post the more am starting of thinking of a case with 2x 420 rads just to avoid all the issue. i could run freaking 600 rpm fans.... i would have zero negative pressure in a case like that i could mount 2x pumps because apparently that is an issue when you buy radiators...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i don't want to be it super tempting to just give up and go that route...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> who is ciarlatano?


My systems all use 140mm fans except on GPU. I like to keep them below 1000-1100rpm at load. That is the point I can just hear them enough to know system is working hard. Normally they never go above 900-950rpm and when surfing web they are 400-600rpm. My systems are all air. H2O system often do not need as much fan speed as air systems do.









I think 420mm radiators would be serious waste .. not to mention I don't know of any small cases that will support that size.

ciarlatano is user here who has answered many of your posted questions. He sometimes barks pretty loud, but he has never bitten anyone .. yet. The older he gets, the more he grumbles, growls and barks.


----------



## Dooxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> My systems all use 140mm fans except on GPU. I like to keep them below 1000-1100rpm at load. That is the point I can just hear them enough to know system is working hard. Normally they never go above 900-950rpm and when surfing web they are 400-600rpm. My systems are all air. H2O system often do not need as much fan speed as air systems do.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think 420mm radiators would be serious waste .. not to mention I don't know of any small cases that will support that size.
> 
> ciarlatano is user here who has answered many of your posted questions. He sometimes barks pretty loud, but he has never bitten anyone .. yet. The older he gets, the more he grumbles, growls and barks.


i just did see the forum pic of ciarlatano i know who it is a really helpful guy!








wait what you can go what that low fan speed as aircooling???? :O i have never had a aircool system with reference card that did not have heat issue regardless of how i tried to cool my pc. whats sort of why i move in to water cooling because am so feed up with 90c cards when playing games like lol on medium setting... okey am exaggerate a bit here you get my point.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dooxy*
> 
> i just did see the forum pic of ciarlatano i know who it is a really helpful guy!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> wait what you can go what that low fan speed as aircooling???? :O i have never had a aircool system with reference card that did not have heat issue regardless of how i tried to cool my pc. whats sort of why i move in to water cooling because am so feed up with 90c cards when playing games like lol on medium setting... okey am exaggerate a bit here you get my point.


I have older GPUs, but both are high TDP; ASUS GTX580 DirectCU II and KFA2 GTX 770 LTD OC white edition. Both run cool and quiet, but both have different fan on them. GTX580 has 2x TY-100 and GTX770 has 3x 120mm.

Most important thing in air cooling is case airflow moving air in such a way as to remove all heated air without mixing with cool intake air going to component coolers. If case air is 8c hotter than room, than component (CPU or GPU) will also be 8c .. and it is not uncommon in cases that have not had airflow optimized for component intake air temp to be 15-25c warmer than room when system is working hard .. meaning components are running 10-20c hotter than they would if their coolers were getting cooler air. 'Ways to Better Cooling' link in my sig can help you with these things. 1st post is index, click on topic to see it. 5th topic is good place to start.


----------



## kush621

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *honj90*
> 
> You're right, cooling is realistically not going to be an issue, it's mostly about the aesthetics of the evolv vs the slightly lower price and convenience of the luxe for me. It does seem aesthetics are going to win out for me in the end, if I'm going to look at this case for the next X years it might as well be nice to look at. The side panels are not really a big deal in the grand scheme of things a few extra minutes a couple of times per month I guess. Sight... I just wish they made the Evolv with only one glass side-panel on hinges, then it would be my dream case. I can't really wait for CES though, so I guess I'll have to make due with what's available
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just go for the standard Evolv and replace the acrylic panel with a sheet of glass, it's quite simple actually. I did it on mine.


----------



## Pustekuchen

My new PHANTEKS ITX Setup <3


Intel Core i5 6600K @ 4.7GHz
be quiet! Dark Rock Pro 3
Asus Z170I PRO GAMING
32GB Corsair Vengeance LPX
ASUS ROG Strix GeForce GTX 1070 OC
PHANTEKS Enthoo Evolv ITX
be quiet! Straight Power 10 500W CM


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pustekuchen*
> 
> My new PHANTEKS ITX Setup <3
> 
> 
> Intel Core i5 6600K @ 4.7GHz
> be quiet! Dark Rock Pro 3
> Asus Z170I PRO GAMING
> 32GB Corsair Vengeance LPX
> ASUS ROG Strix GeForce GTX 1070 OC
> PHANTEKS Enthoo Evolv ITX
> be quiet! Straight Power 10 500W CM


Looks very nice.








But your desk is too clean to be functioning.









What are your temps like?


----------



## Dooxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pustekuchen*
> 
> My new PHANTEKS ITX Setup <3
> 
> 
> Intel Core i5 6600K @ 4.7GHz
> be quiet! Dark Rock Pro 3
> Asus Z170I PRO GAMING
> 32GB Corsair Vengeance LPX
> ASUS ROG Strix GeForce GTX 1070 OC
> PHANTEKS Enthoo Evolv ITX
> be quiet! Straight Power 10 500W CM


how is your GPU temps? i am asking around a lot because i want to do almost the same build.


----------



## Pustekuchen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dooxy*
> 
> how is your GPU temps? i am asking around a lot because i want to do almost the same build.


CPU = max 53°C and GPU = max 67°C @ Valley Benchmark


----------



## Dooxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pustekuchen*
> 
> CPU = max 53°C and GPU = max 67°C @ Valley Benchmark


wow are you overclocking anything?


----------



## Pustekuchen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dooxy*
> 
> wow are you overclocking anything?


yes, i overclocking the CPU @4,7Ghz


----------



## Dooxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pustekuchen*
> 
> yes, i overclocking the CPU @4,7Ghz


on the GPU! like what temps you got? i feel this is magical moment


----------



## Scotty99

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dooxy*
> 
> on the GPU! like what temps you got? i feel this is magical moment


GPU overclocking is kind of not relevant these days, they come so close to the max you can get out of the box anyways. My 760 out of the box goes up to 1228mhz, manually oc'ing i cant even get to 1300 mhz so i dont even bother. So his temps are pretty good, its already overclocked : )


----------



## Pustekuchen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dooxy*
> 
> on the GPU! like what temps you got? i feel this is magical moment


My GPU works with standard values. More is not usefull for me. 27" @ 1080p









http://www.sysprofile.de/id145624


----------



## firefoxx04

Question for Evolve ITX owners. How is the airflow around the hard drives? I plan on using this case for a small file server build. Two 3.5" drives in raid1. The drives wont be hammered all the time, but I do need them to stay cool. I have one of the 200mm fans on my ATX case and its great, but it looks like it sits just a bit too high to provide direct airflow over the 3.5" drives in the Evolve ITX. I think it will be fine, but I am looking for some real world experience.

Thanks!


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *firefoxx04*
> 
> Question for Evolve ITX owners. How is the airflow around the hard drives? I plan on using this case for a small file server build. Two 3.5" drives in raid1. The drives wont be hammered all the time, but I do need them to stay cool. I have one of the 200mm fans on my ATX case and its great, but it looks like it sits just a bit too high to provide direct airflow over the 3.5" drives in the Evolve ITX. I think it will be fine, but I am looking for some real world experience.
> 
> Thanks!


I would install 2 X 140mm fans in front, seems to be the best intake setup with the Evolv itx. You won't find a lot of "fans" of the 200mm fan. When mine was air cooled and I had 2 X 140mm intake drive temps were very good.


----------



## TG3D

are they going to refresh enthoo evolv itx with TG any time soon?


----------



## Scotty99

I really dont understand the TG craze. Sure its a lot more scratch resistant than plexi but it also can shatter quite easily if hit in the corners even with light force (i worked at a glass factory for 3 years). Until someone does one properly on a hinge with edge protection im gonna steer clear of tempered panels. The way they are mounting these is so inconvenient, they could do so much better (this goes for everyone who is doing a TG right now).


----------



## BinaryBummer

Well I switched the Lepa around again take a chance on pressure on the stick of ram. I think it will be fine though. It does look better now and I also blocked off all the top openings to keep the air channeling only through the radiator.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scotty99*
> 
> I really dont understand the TG craze. Sure its a lot more scratch resistant than plexi but it also can shatter quite easily if hit in the corners even with light force (i worked at a glass factory for 3 years). Until someone does one properly on a hinge with edge protection im gonna steer clear of tempered panels. The way they are mounting these is so inconvenient, they could do so much better (this goes for everyone who is doing a TG right now).


I wanted the TG panel case but they drug there anchor so much I needed to get the build done. It is just money they lost.

I like see through panels and for most once you build the PC set it and forget it. Just a Maintaining the radiators and fans etc for dust once in awhile.


----------



## Dooxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scotty99*
> 
> GPU overclocking is kind of not relevant these days, they come so close to the max you can get out of the box anyways. My 760 out of the box goes up to 1228mhz, manually oc'ing i cant even get to 1300 mhz so i dont even bother. So his temps are pretty good, its already overclocked : )


Yeah but i want to try figure out of am going to run in to temps above the 80c with a gtx 1080 in a case like this. I have read alot of issue with this case. And some user really don't recommend using it! but i love it and i really so bad want a kick ass ITX system!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pustekuchen*
> 
> My GPU works with standard values. More is not usefull for me. 27" @ 1080p
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 27c in full load in this case?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.sysprofile.de/id145624


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rfarmer*
> 
> I would install 2 X 140mm fans in front, seems to be the best intake setup with the Evolv itx. You won't find a lot of "fans" of the 200mm fan. When mine was air cooled and I had 2 X 140mm intake drive temps were very good.


did you use a shorter PSU to get more air for the card to suck from the "net mash" above the PSU?


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dooxy*
> 
> Yeah but i want to try figure out of am going to run in to temps above the 80c with a gtx 1080 in a case like this. I have read alot of issue with this case. And some user really don't recommend using it! but i love it and i really so bad want a kick ass ITX system!
> 
> did you use a shorter PSU to get more air for the card to suck from the "net mash" above the PSU?


EVGA G2 Supernova 550 watt, 165mm.


----------



## DONGOTTI

So I'm thinking I want to watercool my evolv. I'm leaning towards 2 280mm rads. What's a good 280? There's so many out there lol. I just want quality I don't care about price.

I have a 6700k delidded and an MSI 980ti


----------



## BinaryBummer

I think I might try pushing the air through the radiator rather then pulling it through and see how the temps do.


----------



## BinaryBummer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BinaryBummer*
> 
> I think I might try pushing the air through the radiator rather then pulling it through and see how the temps do.


OK reworked the fans and put the fans where it is pushing case air outwards at the top. I did have it pulling the air and it wasn't doing very well.

Temperture is way down both from idle and set at 4.3Ghz.

First pic is temps at idle 4.3Ghz and the 2nd pic is Prime95 Torture Test running complete 2 tests. VRM temps were even down.


----------



## firefoxx04

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rfarmer*
> 
> I would install 2 X 140mm fans in front, seems to be the best intake setup with the Evolv itx. You won't find a lot of "fans" of the 200mm fan. When mine was air cooled and I had 2 X 140mm intake drive temps were very good.


I too switched to 140mm fans in my personal case, however, the 200mm fan certainly has enough air flow to cool the system in question (an embedded ultra low power ITX board with 2 hard drives). Im just curious if the fan is actually blowing air over the hard drives. Spending money on intake fans will move me into a higher cost bracket, which I want to avoid.

The main reason for using this case is it is the only ITX case I can find that houses 2 3.5" drives without compromises and has a real intake fan. Any more suitable (bigger or smaller) seems to be more expensive, too big, or just too cheep looking.


----------



## Testing12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scotty99*
> 
> I really dont understand the TG craze.


Many find it can be quite beautiful.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scotty99*
> 
> Sure its a lot more scratch resistant than plexi...


It's also clearer than acrylic. And as plexiglass/acrylic can scratch, overtime it becomes even more dull (as opposed to tempered glass).

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scotty99*
> 
> ...but it also can shatter quite easily if hit in the corners even with light force...


I'm sure that's true. There's always tradeoffs I guess. For me, I think I'd choose tempered glass over acrylic even under the current build situation, although I agree that manufacturers could design a better 'interface.'


----------



## BinaryBummer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Testing12*
> 
> Many find it can be quite beautiful.
> It's also clearer than acrylic. And as plexiglass/acrylic can scratch, overtime it becomes even more dull (as opposed to tempered glass).
> I'm sure that's true. There's always tradeoffs I guess. For me, I think I'd choose tempered glass over acrylic even under the current build situation, although I agree that manufacturers could design a better 'interface.'


I wanted to go with the Corsair 780t for the reason of the side is hinged and removable yet it didn't have some of the features I wanted that the Phantek had. The TG I wanted for easy cleaning and just more durable for years to come. The main question os how well it will hold up to removal over time.

Why would the glass break, well unless you have drunkin parties or kids throwing stuff or a wife/gf wanting a separation, I see no reason for breakage to happen.


----------



## jjsoviet

Hello folks!

I'm planning to start fresh with a build and I got the Maximus VIII Extreme for half off from our local MicroCenter. However, I didn't take into account that it's an EATX board and was planning to have an EVOLV ATX as my case. Would the Extreme fit into the Phanteks? I've seen some builds managing to fit some EATX mobos but I'm concerned over potential issues such as bending.

Thanks!


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DONGOTTI*
> 
> So I'm thinking I want to watercool my evolv. I'm leaning towards 2 280mm rads. What's a good 280? There's so many out there lol. I just want quality I don't care about price.
> 
> I have a 6700k delidded and an MSI 980ti


Hardware Labs Nemesis GTS (30mm thick) or GTX (54mm thick) 280mm (or 360mm) without question. I have a GTS 280 (xflow) in my rig and it is terrific. The GTS is widely regarded as the best slim radiator out there. Both rads offer the best performance at low to medium fan speeds. Dual 280 is fine, but you will get the "best" performance out of a 280mm GTS in the top and a 360mm GTX in the front.


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *firefoxx04*
> 
> I too switched to 140mm fans in my personal case, however, the 200mm fan certainly has enough air flow to cool the system in question (an embedded ultra low power ITX board with 2 hard drives). Im just curious if the fan is actually blowing air over the hard drives. Spending money on intake fans will move me into a higher cost bracket, which I want to avoid.
> 
> The main reason for using this case is it is the only ITX case I can find that houses 2 3.5" drives without compromises and has a real intake fan. Any more suitable (bigger or smaller) seems to be more expensive, too big, or just too cheep looking.


The 200mm doesn't extend all the way to the bottom, it does blow air over the upper hard drive. There is only one mounting location for the 200mm also. If you have an extra 120mm or 140mm on hand they do mount all the way at the bottom and would blow over both fans.


----------



## DONGOTTI

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> Hardware Labs Nemesis GTS (30mm thick) or GTX (54mm thick) 280mm (or 360mm) without question. I have a GTS 280 (xflow) in my rig and it is terrific. The GTS is widely regarded as the best slim radiator out there. Both rads offer the best performance at low to medium fan speeds. Dual 280 is fine, but you will get the "best" performance out of a 280mm GTS in the top and a 360mm GTX in the front.


Good info thanks.

I want a 360 but I have 2 HDD's and don't want to shell out for SSD's so the 360 will fit, 280mm will be cheaper lol.


----------



## himhimdc5

Hi guys,

Just finished my first custom loop and want to share with everyone. This is my first water cooling loop...in fact...this is the first computer I've ever built. It was build in Jan 2016 and just fell in love with the Panteks Enthoo Luxe case. Recently decided to go for custom water cooling but had a lot of problems. So I've been creeping around the forum but never posted. You guys helped answer a a lot of question I had, thanks! Let me know what you guys think!


----------



## springs113

That looks friggin awesome, here i am thinking i can't do rigid tubing, you just inspired me to do my build.


----------



## BinaryBummer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *himhimdc5*
> 
> Hi guys,
> 
> Just finished my first custom loop and want to share with everyone. This is my first water cooling loop...in fact...this is the first computer I've ever built. It was build in Jan 2016 and just fell in love with the Panteks Enthoo Luxe case. Recently decided to go for custom water cooling but had a lot of problems. So I've been creeping around the forum but never posted. You guys helped answer a a lot of question I had, thanks! Let me know what you guys think!


Welcome and now that you took the plunge into the realm of Phantek post your build if you would.. It looks over the top with transparency..


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scotty99*
> 
> I really dont understand the TG craze. Sure its a lot more scratch resistant than plexi but it also can shatter quite easily if hit in the corners even with light force (i worked at a glass factory for 3 years). Until someone does one properly on a hinge with edge protection im gonna steer clear of tempered panels. The way they are mounting these is so inconvenient, they could do so much better (this goes for everyone who is doing a TG right now).


And it shatters easily with a automatic center punch very easily, but it takes a sharp impact on ceramic tile or concrete floor to shatter. It won't shatter on wood, vinyl or carpeted floors .. common found in homes. If it was so prone to shattering they not use it to make table tops, glass top display counters, doors and windows near doors, etc.
Banging the corner of a computer on a concrete or ceramic tile will do it damage too.


----------



## BinaryBummer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> And it shatters easily with a automatic center punch very easily, but it takes a sharp impact on ceramic tile or concrete floor to shatter. It won't shatter on wood, vinyl or carpeted floors .. common found in homes. If it was so prone to shattering they not use it to make table tops, glass top display counters, doors and windows near doors, etc.
> Banging the corner of a computer on a concrete or ceramic tile will do it damage too.


Maybe we should build a side panel out of some CRL Level 1 Bullet Resistant Glass in case that champagne cork gets away from us.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jjsoviet*
> 
> Hello folks!
> 
> I'm planning to start fresh with a build and I got the Maximus VIII Extreme for half off from our local MicroCenter. However, I didn't take into account that it's an EATX board and was planning to have an EVOLV ATX as my case. Would the Extreme fit into the Phanteks? I've seen some builds managing to fit some EATX mobos but I'm concerned over potential issues such as bending.
> 
> Thanks!


It's been established that the RV10 Edition won't fit without removing it's backplate and LED piece. Then the rubber grommets might need to be removed and mobo covers half og grommet area

Here is RVE in Evolv ATX. Sorry, I've no imges of RV10.



@BinaryBummer
And line all panels with Kevlar, Graphene, or Aramid materials.









@himhimdc5
Very nicely done!








I've used most Phanteks cases. Love the Primo, but it is huge. My favorites are Luxe and Evolv ATX. Both are big enough to handle everything I want to use yet small enough to fit almost anywhere.
I would love to see a MiniXL setup for ATX / EATX .


----------



## jjsoviet

Thanks for the reference image, I think I may be able to make it work. The Maximus VIII Extreme doesn't have a backplate nor an LED piece on the right edge that may obstruct the cutouts further, so that's a good sign at least. I could probably keep the grommets as well.

And I think the P400 actually supports EATX motherboards? Might get that instead.


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jjsoviet*
> 
> Thanks for the reference image, I think I may be able to make it work. The Maximus VIII Extreme doesn't have a backplate nor an LED piece on the right edge that may obstruct the cutouts further, so that's a good sign at least. I could probably keep the grommets as well.
> 
> And I think the P400 actually supports EATX motherboards? Might get that instead.


E-ATX *(up to 272mm wide, cannot use rubber grommets)

per Phanteks site.


----------



## jjsoviet

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rfarmer*
> 
> E-ATX *(up to 272mm wide, cannot use rubber grommets)
> 
> per Phanteks site.


Juuuust about fits then :v

Wow getting this mobo half off is presenting quite a problem for me


----------



## jjsoviet

According to this PCPartPicker build: https://pcpartpicker.com/b/RtccCJ

It is possible to have the Extreme fit into the EVOLV ATX. Welp guess I'm getting it









Person's build in question:


----------



## owcraftsman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *himhimdc5*
> 
> Hi guys,
> 
> Just finished my first custom loop and want to share with everyone. This is my first water cooling loop...in fact...this is the first computer I've ever built. It was build in Jan 2016 and just fell in love with the Panteks Enthoo Luxe case. Recently decided to go for custom water cooling but had a lot of problems. So I've been creeping around the forum but never posted. You guys helped answer a a lot of question I had, thanks! Let me know what you guys think!


For a first time watercooling build you did quit well. You obviously dotted your I's and crossed your T's right down the the drain port well done









I love the Luxe and just bought another to replace the Primo.


----------



## owcraftsman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DONGOTTI*
> 
> So I'm thinking I want to watercool my evolv. I'm leaning towards 2 280mm rads. What's a good 280? There's so many out there lol. I just want quality I don't care about price.
> 
> I have a 6700k delidded and an MSI 980ti


Surprised no with the case chimed in. I don't have one but looks to be like you'd need a 30mm thick for the top the Black Ice Nenesis is probably your best bet followed by my favorite Alphacool ST 30. The front of the case doesn't appear to have the same limitation but over 45mm thick you won't see significant improvements in cooling. There are ways to tweak and tune air flow with this case that I've seen discussed here so maybe those folks can chime in. I don't think you'd benefit much with push pull fans in the front if top and rear are set exhaust unless you intend to modify the top of the case for more air flow. Set both rads to push. GL


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *owcraftsman*
> 
> Surprised no with the case chimed in. I don't have one but looks to be like you'd need a 30mm thick for the top the Black Ice Nenesis is probably your best bet followed by my favorite Alphacool ST 30. The front of the case doesn't appear to have the same limitation but over 45mm thick you won't see significant improvements in cooling. There are ways to tweak and tune air flow with this case that I've seen discussed here so maybe those folks can chime in. I don't think you'd benefit much with push pull fans in the front if top and rear are set exhaust unless you intend to modify the top of the case for more air flow. Set both rads to push. GL


Ahem!








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> Hardware Labs Nemesis GTS (30mm thick) or GTX (54mm thick) 280mm (or 360mm) without question. I have a GTS 280 (xflow) in my rig and it is terrific. The GTS is widely regarded as the best slim radiator out there. Both rads offer the best performance at low to medium fan speeds. Dual 280 is fine, but you will get the "best" performance out of a 280mm GTS in the top and a 360mm GTX in the front.


----------



## DONGOTTI

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *owcraftsman*
> 
> Surprised no with the case chimed in. I don't have one but looks to be like you'd need a 30mm thick for the top the Black Ice Nenesis is probably your best bet followed by my favorite Alphacool ST 30. The front of the case doesn't appear to have the same limitation but over 45mm thick you won't see significant improvements in cooling. There are ways to tweak and tune air flow with this case that I've seen discussed here so maybe those folks can chime in. I don't think you'd benefit much with push pull fans in the front if top and rear are set exhaust unless you intend to modify the top of the case for more air flow. Set both rads to push. GL


I was planning on push only. Maybe I should do a 360 up top instead of a 280.


----------



## DONGOTTI

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *owcraftsman*
> 
> Surprised no with the case chimed in. I don't have one but looks to be like you'd need a 30mm thick for the top the Black Ice Nenesis is probably your best bet followed by my favorite Alphacool ST 30. The front of the case doesn't appear to have the same limitation but over 45mm thick you won't see significant improvements in cooling. There are ways to tweak and tune air flow with this case that I've seen discussed here so maybe those folks can chime in. I don't think you'd benefit much with push pull fans in the front if top and rear are set exhaust unless you intend to modify the top of the case for more air flow. Set both rads to push. GL


I was planning on push only. Maybe I should do a 360 up top instead of a 280


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DONGOTTI*
> 
> I was planning on push only. Maybe I should do a 360 up top instead of a 280.


That would be fine... but you will want to pay close attention the the clearance of the front radiator. Since you don't want to lose the HDD cage you will need to mount the front 280 at the top of the front bracket, which will come very close to the top rad. This may result in you having to install a 120mm rear fan or even no fan at the rear. I am 99% sure this has been done and is possible, it is just a very very tight fit.

I should also note, you will likely want a Uflow (two ports at one side) for the front and Xflow (one at each end) for the top. This will make tubing easier.


----------



## DONGOTTI

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> That would be fine... but you will want to pay close attention the the clearance of the front radiator. Since you don't want to lose the HDD cage you will need to mount the front 280 at the top of the front bracket, which will come very close to the top rad. This may result in you having to install a 120mm rear fan or even no fan at the rear. I am 99% sure this has been done and is possible, it is just a very very tight fit.
> 
> I should also note, you will likely want a Uflow (two ports at one side) for the front and Xflow (one at each end) for the top. This will make tubing easier.


Ah, good call, didn't think of that. Thanks. Also I saw somewhere that HardwareLabs is coming out with new rads so I may just wait. I'm kinda leaning towards them because of the performance for slim rads unless there's something better.


----------



## owcraftsman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> Ahem!


I did not know you have the Evolv I see it now that I expanded the details of your sig my bad. I did not mean to dis you.


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *owcraftsman*
> 
> I did not know you have the Evolv I see it now that I expanded the details of your sig my bad. I did not mean to dis you.


It's all good. No offense was taken.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DONGOTTI*
> 
> Ah, good call, didn't think of that. Thanks. Also I saw somewhere that HardwareLabs is coming out with new rads so I may just wait. I'm kinda leaning towards them because of the performance for slim rads unless there's something better.


The new rad is the Nemesis GTR. They will be 54mm thick like the GTX but will be tuned to offer higher performance at mid to high RPMs (at the cost of slightly less performance at lower RPMs). They should be comparable with the EK XE. All in all I don't think the difference will be big enough to warrant waiting.


----------



## Scotty99

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> And it shatters easily with a automatic center punch very easily, but it takes a sharp impact on ceramic tile or concrete floor to shatter. It won't shatter on wood, vinyl or carpeted floors .. common found in homes. If it was so prone to shattering they not use it to make table tops, glass top display counters, doors and windows near doors, etc.
> Banging the corner of a computer on a concrete or ceramic tile will do it damage too.


Ya, i dont think you are aware how vulnerable tempered glass is to shattering when hit on its corners. TG is cool but the way they are implementing the installation leaves a lot to be desired.


----------



## paskowitz

IMO as long as you use your brain and aren't hopped up on 5 Hour Energy, there is nothing to worry about. I don't think anybody should accuse fine china of being fine. Also, a hinge has its drawbacks as well. Unless there is a strong spring in the hinge mechanism, the doors could swing errantly and smack into something. The latch is also a possible point of failure.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scotty99*
> 
> Ya, i dont think you are aware how vulnerable tempered glass is to shattering when hit on its corners. TG is cool but the way they are implementing the installation leaves a lot to be desired.[/quote
> I am very 'aware' of tempered glass's strong and weak points. I carry a 'resqme' on my key chain. It's basically a razor knife and spring loaded center punch in a key fob, and makes any place on a sheet of tempered glass almost as 'vulnerable as you claim the corners are. I say 'almost' because glass is a super cooled liquid, and flexes .. more flex in center than near edge or corner. All it takes to break tempered glass is a hard pointed object.
> 
> If tempered glass was so 'vulnerable' it wouldn't be used for safety reasons in so many applications.
> 
> What size pieces were you shattering by the corners hitting the floor?
> 
> You are entitled to your opinion,, but stop trying to push it down our throats.


----------



## Ukaz

Hi guys ! Can I fit a hardware Labs black ice nemesis 280gtx at the bottom of the enthoo primo ? I know there's some radiators are too large to fit in. Thanks !


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ukaz*
> 
> Hi guys ! Can I fit a hardware Labs black ice nemesis 280gtx at the bottom of the enthoo primo ? I know there's some radiators are too large to fit in. Thanks !


No, it is a hair too wide. Found that out the hard way.


----------



## Darthvegan

Specs: Phanteks Enthoo Evolv ATX TG | Core i7 6700k @4.6ghz | Gigabyte Z170x Designare | EVGA GTX 1080 FTW | Corsair Dominator DDR4 3600 32GB (4x8GB)| Samsung 960 Pro M.2 (pre-ordered) | Samsung 850 Pro 1TB SSD| Samsung 850 Evo 512GB SSD | Acer Predator XB271HU | EVGA G2 850W| EK SPC-60 Acetal Pump | EK X3 150 Res | Ek Supreme Evo Block | EK 1080 FTW Nickel Block


----------



## springs113

The wife's pc


----------



## doyll

Has anyone fit 3x 120mm fans in Evolv ATX or ATX TG case?


----------



## BinaryBummer

you should be able to look up the general fans that it can hold by downloading the manual, But I do know that sometimes it is the spacing from a radiator to and fan clearing the motherboard or plugins can block a install. Just sometimes you have to sacrifice a cage/s to place.

http://phanteks.com/assets/manuals/PH-ES515E_Western.pdf

There I think is a layout also in the back of the book showing.

COOLING 120 mm 140 mm
Front 3x 2x (2 included)
Top 3x 2x
Rear 1x 1x (1 included)
LIQUID COOLING 120 mm radiator 140 mm radiator
Front Up to 360 Up to 280
Top Up to 360 Up to 280
Rear 120 140


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BinaryBummer*
> 
> you should be able to look up the general fans that it can hold by downloading the manual, But I do know that sometimes it is the spacing from a radiator to and fan clearing the motherboard or plugins can block a install. Just sometimes you have to sacrifice a cage/s to place.
> 
> http://phanteks.com/assets/manuals/PH-ES515E_Western.pdf
> 
> There I think is a layout also in the back of the book showing.
> 
> COOLING 120 mm 140 mm
> Front 3x 2x (2 included)
> Top 3x 2x
> Rear 1x 1x (1 included)
> LIQUID COOLING 120 mm radiator 140 mm radiator
> Front Up to 360 Up to 280
> Top Up to 360 Up to 280
> Rear 120 140


You are absolutely positively correct!








I get the impression you are trolling me.









Because you answer is everything I already know, but not the answer to my simply worded question.
I did not ask was "do the specfications say 3x 120mm fans will fit on front of Evolv ATX / ATX TG?" BECAUSE I KNOW WHAT THE SPECS SAY !!!

And I'm going to assume you do not know the answer, and have not tried putting 3x 120mm fans in a Evolv ATX or Evolv ATX TG .. because I've got people trying to do it who can't seem to get them to fit.

I asked
Quote:


> Has anyone fit 3x 120mm fans in Evolv ATX or ATX TG case?


I'm asking such a simple question .. even though I have Evolv case, manual hard copy and manual pdf

I don't want to have to disconnect and take my case out from under my desk, put it on the workbench, remove the 2x 140mm fans and try fitting 3x 120mm fans to find / figure it out if someone who has done it can just key in the answer and explaination.


----------



## smithydan

@doyll I assume you mean in the front?


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smithydan*
> 
> @doyll I assume you mean in the front?


Yes, the front.

I'm just trying to avoid have to spend 30-45 minutes checking it out on mine.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Yes, the front.
> 
> I'm just trying to avoid have to spend 30-45 minutes checking it out on mine.


ironically you probably spent that long ask8ng here


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> ironically you probably spent that long ask8ng here


But much less work and back pain.









I work on computers for a living, and right now I don't choose to do it. It's easier to ask and see if someone how I know has done it.


----------



## BinaryBummer

So your the expert.. I'm a troll, your to lazy to open it up and try it and I'm the bad guy. Wonder how anything came to be?


----------



## luukelbo

Pretty much all done!






























Verstuurd vanaf mijn Nexus 6P met Tapatalk


----------



## springs113

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *luukelbo*
> 
> Pretty much all done!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Verstuurd vanaf mijn Nexus 6P met Tapatalk


Looking good, clean build.


----------



## kevininsimi

Anybody know when the Luxe Tempered Glass edition will be available at newegg or amazon?


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Has anyone fit 3x 120mm fans in Evolv ATX or ATX TG case?


Yes. In the front and in the top. No issues with either.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Yes. In the front and in the top. No issues with either.


Thanks mate.









I suspected they would fit no problem, but just wanted to be sure.


----------



## doyll

I've asked around and others have fit 3x fans in front with no problems as well.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> But much less work and back pain.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I work on computers for a living, and right now I don't choose to do it. It's easier to ask and see if someone how I know has done it.


yeah that's why i never took my final exam for ccna training in 2003...stupid of me but my thought was i wouldn't enjoy working on my own if i did it all day for work but now im thinking i should have went ahead and gotten it...id have to start all over now...ive forgotten more than most in my everyday life know about networks and wans...


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> yeah that's why i never took my final exam for ccna training in 2003...stupid of me but my thought was i wouldn't enjoy working on my own if i did it all day for work but now im thinking i should have went ahead and gotten it...id have to start all over now...ive forgotten more than most in my everyday life know about networks and wans...


With the constantly evolving tech it's a job just keeping up. I graduated before computers .. adding machines had crank handles. When I went back for computer I spent as much time reading current tech as I did on text books and assigned reading.


----------



## Sazexa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Yes, the front.
> 
> I'm just trying to avoid have to spend 30-45 minutes checking it out on mine.


I've fit two 360mm radiators, one in the front and one in the top, together.

So yes, three 120mm fans definitely fits.


----------



## Andrew LB

So i'm in the market to purchase a new case and i've pretty much decided on the Enthoo Pro M Tempered Glass version (brand new). I'm going to be water cooling this build and was planning on mounting a 360 rad up top and possibly a second in the front (or 240/280 if there isn't room) and i saw that some of you have modded the top rad tray to place the fans above it. I have no problem modding this case as I have a few decades of experience modding cases tools for just about anything. Can someone tell me how much room is above the pull-out tray? I'd like to mount everything as high as possible with even the possibility of making a custom bracket.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> That would be fine... but you will want to pay close attention the the clearance of the front radiator. Since you don't want to lose the HDD cage you will need to mount the front 280 at the top of the front bracket, which will come very close to the top rad. This may result in you having to install a 120mm rear fan or even no fan at the rear. I am 99% sure this has been done and is possible, it is just a very very tight fit.
> 
> I should also note, you will likely want a Uflow (two ports at one side) for the front and Xflow (one at each end) for the top. This will make tubing easier.


Does anyone have photos of a 360 up top and 280 in the upper mounting location? I currently have an xspc ex360 up top with 3x 120x25mm fans mounted ABOVE the radiator bracket I had to modify that bracket for them to fit by grinding off the little 1/4" high lip around each of the fan openings so it was flat. It looks like there is enough room for the endtank and and a 90' on the front rad outlet so it then goes straight down into my tube res. If there is a clearance issue with the top rad, i guess i can always mount the front rad in front of the front mounting brackets and put the fans inside the case. in a pull setup.

Also, i was hoping to find a 280 rad for the front that is slim enough to fit BUT also is a multiport rad. Adding a fill port/bleeder up top would make things much easier when it comes time to do maintenance.


----------



## 519408

Hello. Does the top work?

ENTHOO PRO M ACRYLIC + EK-XLC Predator 240


----------



## smithydan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ArnetteHD*
> 
> Hello. Does the top work?
> 
> ENTHOO PRO M ACRYLIC + EK-XLC Predator 240


Easy.


----------



## paskowitz

Just fit 3x 3.5 inch HDDs in my Evolv ATX TG with 2x280mm radiators (so no front mounts and no bottom dual tray). Anyone want to guess how?









I also discovered the Phanteks 3.5 bracket is not good at mitigating HDD noise. My HGST NAS drive was like rattlesnake on that thing so I went DIY.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> Just fit 3x 3.5 inch HDDs in my Evolv ATX TG with 2x280mm radiators (so no front mounts and no bottom dual tray). Anyone want to guess how?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also discovered the Phanteks 3.5 bracket is not good at mitigating HDD noise. My HGST NAS drive was like rattlesnake on that thing so I went DIY.


Rear of the reservoir mount? I have seen a few drives there and considered doing it myself.

You could also do it above the top radiator mount.


----------



## DONGOTTI

I have a 360mm and a 280mm, both 30mm thick, on order. Still have everything else to buy. For My evolv atx. My question is what size pump/res combo can I fit in there?

Plan to have both rads push. Just not sure what "bolt in" options are out there that match up with existing holes and whatnot


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DONGOTTI*
> 
> I have a 360mm and a 280mm, both 30mm thick, on order. Still have everything else to buy. For My evolv atx. My question is what size pump/res combo can I fit in there?
> 
> Plan to have both rads push. Just not sure what "bolt in" options are out there that match up with existing holes and whatnot


I'm using a Monsoon MMRS, two 50mm tanks with a coupler and D5 mount. Fits perfectly in that scenario and the mounting holes actually line up with existing.


----------



## DONGOTTI

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> I'm using a Monsoon MMRS, two 50mm tanks with a coupler and D5 mount. Fits perfectly in that scenario and the mounting holes actually line up with existing.


2 reservoirs? I'll have to look up your rig. Thanks man.

Any thoughts on a VPP755 instead of a D5 in that scenario?

Actually, could you send me links to what you have? Been following this thread long enough to know you of all people would know what works and what doesn't.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DONGOTTI*
> 
> 2 reservoirs? I'll have to look up your rig. Thanks man.
> 
> Any thoughts on a VPP755 instead of a D5 in that scenario?
> 
> Actually, could you send me links to what you have? Been following this thread long enough to know you of all people would know what works and what doesn't.


No, it is one reservoir - see below. Monsoon MMRS are modular, I was giving you the configuration. You can mix and match colors, port configurations, lighting, etc to build it to your tastes and needs. http://www.performance-pcs.com/monsoon-modular-reservoir-system-parts

On the VPP755....given Alphacool's track record with pumps, and the fact that it is not 100% D5 compatible with everything being made specifically for D5s, I wouldn't go anywhere near it.


----------



## LegoFarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *himhimdc5*
> 
> Hi guys,
> 
> Just finished my first custom loop and want to share with everyone. This is my first water cooling loop...in fact...this is the first computer I've ever built. It was build in Jan 2016 and just fell in love with the Panteks Enthoo Luxe case. Recently decided to go for custom water cooling but had a lot of problems. So I've been creeping around the forum but never posted. You guys helped answer a a lot of question I had, thanks! Let me know what you guys think!


Beautiful. I've considered getting that acrylic panel too but it's $100 after shipping







Phanteks said they would sell glass panels in January and I'll have to do a bit of drilling and tapping.


----------



## LegoFarmer

How do you guys think a power supply shroud would look with carbon fiber wrapping?
https://www.amazon.com/Orion-Motor-Carbon-Fiber-Vehicle/dp/B013SOG78I/ref=sr_1_17?ie=UTF8&qid=1479601326&sr=8-17&keywords=carbon+fiber+vinyl


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LegoFarmer*
> 
> How do you guys think a power supply shroud would look with carbon fiber wrapping?
> https://www.amazon.com/Orion-Motor-Carbon-Fiber-Vehicle/dp/B013SOG78I/ref=sr_1_17?ie=UTF8&qid=1479601326&sr=8-17&keywords=carbon+fiber+vinyl


I did it to mine and I think it looks good. Although I would not use the traditional flat CF wrap. It looks more like pre cured CF rather than the final product we are most accustom to seeing. This is what I use.


And my GPU...


There is actually an OCN thread just on CF wrap.


----------



## LegoFarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> I did it to mine and I think it looks good. Although I would not use the traditional flat CF wrap. It looks more like pre cured CF rather than the final product we are most accustom to seeing. This is what I use.
> 
> There is actually an OCN thread just on CF wrap.


Thank you!
I actually am not a big fan of the glossy stuff. I like the nice texture and look of CF. You don't think what I listed will suffice?


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LegoFarmer*
> 
> Thank you!
> I actually am not a big fan of the glossy stuff. I like the nice texture and look of CF. You don't think what I listed will suffice?


To each their own. The stuff you linked I am sure would work fine. 3M is the best but it is a bit expensive. it is a little tricky to get the PSU cover just right. It helps to have a buddy helping you out.


----------



## mrpurplehawk

Question about the PWM controller on the Primo, I know it has an 11 fan limit but is that due to the power limits of the sata power cable or something else?

My idea is to run a 360mm push/pull in the floor and the a 480mm push pull in the roof. If I ran both with their own sata powered pwm hub and then run both hubs into the primo's hub then into the cpu header on the motherboard. Would this work or am I better off just running a extension cable from the bottom and plugging each rad's hub into a seperate motherboard header?


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mrpurplehawk*
> 
> Question about the PWM controller on the Primo, I know it has an 11 fan limit but is that due to the power limits of the sata power cable or something else?
> 
> My idea is to run a 360mm push/pull in the floor and the a 480mm push pull in the roof. If I ran both with their own sata powered pwm hub and then run both hubs into the primo's hub then into the cpu header on the motherboard. Would this work or am I better off just running a extension cable from the bottom and plugging each rad's hub into a seperate motherboard header?


You would be better off running two Phanteks hubs, one for each rad. You can then use a simple PWM splitter, or connect to the CPU and CPU_OPT if your MB is so equipped. While the hubs can support eleven fans, they can begin showing some erratic behavior when more than 6-8 are used depending on what fans they are.


----------



## PetrasSukys

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> You would be better off running two Phanteks hubs, one for each rad. You can then use a simple PWM splitter, or connect to the CPU and CPU_OPT if your MB is so equipped. While the hubs can support eleven fans, they can begin showing some erratic behavior when more than 6-8 are used depending on what fans they are.


Any source for that erratic behaviour? As in reviews/tests I am interested in that, too...


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mrpurplehawk*
> 
> Question about the PWM controller on the Primo, I know it has an 11 fan limit but is that due to the power limits of the sata power cable or something else?
> 
> My idea is to run a 360mm push/pull in the floor and the a 480mm push pull in the roof. If I ran both with their own sata powered pwm hub and then run both hubs into the primo's hub then into the cpu header on the motherboard. Would this work or am I better off just running a extension cable from the bottom and plugging each rad's hub into a seperate motherboard header?


Like carlatano said, it might be better to use two hubs.

The work very well with 4-11 fans. Less fan load and control is limited. More fan load and things are likely to get too hot.

A electronics mate of mine borrowed my PWM fan hub for testing. Her are is what he as found out so far.:

*Phanteks PWM Fan Hub Review*
(PWM control converted to variable voltage fan hub)
By Tealc

The Phanteks PWM hub is a small device that allows the user to control a number of 3 pin fans using your computer's native CPU PWM control signal, or valid PWM signal you choose to feed into it.



The hub measures approximately 45 x 40 x 15mm so is small enough to be tucked away behind a motherboard. The fans exit around the outside of the hub and this increases the footprint considerably but adds no further height.

The unit can be powered in two ways:-

Via computer PWM header using the standard 1 Amp header.
Via special 2 pin connector and cable assembly to SATA connector for more power.
Both can be connected as they have a shared connection on the PCB. To fully disconnect PWM header power the wires would need to be broken, or terminals pulled.

*How the device operates:*
A PWM signal is taken from the single 4-pin connector and converted to DC power which then feeds each of the six 3-pin headers.

*How it works, the circuit:*
A NPN transistor takes the PWM signal and sends it to a push pull NPN/PNP transistor pair where it is level shifted to a 12v PWM, this in turn feeds into a P-channel Mosfet which handles the switching of the 12v fan load. There is also an inductor and a capacitor on the output which does the smoothing and provides, more or less a DC voltage signal. A Schottky diode sits across the fan load and prevents any significant reverse transient spikes that could potentially destroy the Mosfet. There are a number of other resistors and diodes.

Interestingly there are a number of positions unpopulated, R5 (resistor), C2 (capacitor), D3 (diode), and perhaps most interesting of all on the front are spaces for three resistors and three LEDs. These are wired directly to the 12v source and the resistors are there to limit current. I feel this is an opportunity missed by Phanteks as they really would be better on the fan output and get brighter as output voltage increases.

*The benefits.*

Simple to use. Plug your fans in, provide power and PWM and the fans will adjust according to CPU temperature.
Easy to tuck out of sight.
Can be mounted on the chassis.
Available with some cases fitted and also available in a neat plastic box.
Energy efficient.

*The limitations, drawbacks and potential issues.*
There is no adjustment that can be made to the output directly, all must be done in software, or by changing the fan load to effect a desired speed.

The hub is set up to work with an ideal load, of around 6 or 7 fans, which is around 15W. Too much above or below this load compromises the way the hub operates. With just one fan you will get 9v -12v. At a much higher load you'll get 3v-10.5v for the same duty cycle. See table and graph for detail.



Different fans will run at different speeds depending on their individual characteristic and there is no easy way to get feedback from the hub to the motherboard headers, only the white fan header feeds back.

At higher loads it was noticed that some voltage spikes occurred with the switching of the circuit, this may cause premature failure of the circuitry and produce extra heat. The image below shows a nice smooth trace with 4 fans, then the lower shows some spikes with 11 fans.



The Mosfet package can get very hot when a high load of fans is attached. With a load of 24W and 12 fans the Mosfet was too hot to touch after a few seconds at 50% duty cycle. This may cause premature failure. At low duty cycle the temperature was reduced. It may be possible to heatsink the mosfet, however it is a very small package measuring only 7mm x 5mm.

Without care it will be possible to overload your PWM fan header. Ideally 12v or ground should be disconnected from CPU_Fan lead if using external power source but this is not done automatically.

Not really suitable for 4 pin fans.

No LEDs.

*Testing*

For the purposes of this test I used a collection of 3 pin 12v fans I've accumulated over the years.
I used a Gould OS300 oscilloscope to view output at the fan header.
I used a 555 timer based 22000kHz variable PWM circuit to simulate the PWM.
I also used a linear regulated 12v power supply which outputs a solid 12.3v no matter what load I throw at it.
I measured current using a Mastech MS8268 DMM and voltage using Isotech IDM600 DMM.
I estimated 20%, 50% PWM using the scale on the oscilloscope and actual max PWM is within a 1 or 2% of full 100% PWM.
*Conclusion*
I found the Phanteks PWM hub behaviour just as I'd expect from such a simple device. I was a little disappointed with the heat generated at higher loads but feel that multiple hubs could be employed to get around this issue. The circuit itself wouldn't load down the PWM signal too much so it's likely that 2 or 3 of these things would work just fine. Ideally Phanteks could have used a mosfet on the input, but to keep costs down they went with an NPN transistor.

I'd really like to see a version of this with temperature related LEDs and an adjustment to compensate for the amount of fans.

Hub supplied by doyll
Published layout by doyll


----------



## mrpurplehawk

Thanks for the input, I am finally getting around to ordering all my water parts that I have put off for too long.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PetrasSukys*
> 
> Any source for that erratic behaviour? As in reviews/tests I am interested in that, too...


I could add it into the reviews of fans, coolers and cases I was doing when it occurred, but it would be completely off topic in them......









You'll notice in usage that the fan curve changes as you add fans. That is easy enough to test, simply unplug two fans and watch what happens to the speed of the others. When you get over 6-8 with certain fans, the curve can become erratic. Fans won't hold steady speeds well, and the rpm range will begin getting cut down. I didn't keep a listing of fans that had the worst issues, but I do recall it being a nightmare with Noctua iPPC fans. But, to be fair, everything about the iPPC fans outside of their intended industrial applications tends to be pretty nightmarish.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> I could add it into the reviews of fans, coolers and cases I was doing when it occurred, but it would be completely off topic in them......
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You'll notice in usage that the fan curve changes as you add fans. That is easy enough to test, simply unplug two fans and watch what happens to the speed of the others. When you get over 6-8 with certain fans, the curve can become erratic. Fans won't hold steady speeds well, and the rpm range will begin getting cut down. I didn't keep a listing of fans that had the worst issues, but I do recall it being a nightmare with Noctua iPPC fans. But, to be fair, everything about the iPPC fans outside of their intended industrial applications tends to be pretty nightmarish.


Yeah, these hubs are not much good for 2-3 fans. 4+ fans and it does a nice job .. until it gets too hot with too much load. Seems to be best with 4-9 fans .. more specifically with a load in the 0.6-1.5 amp range.

Were they the PWM or variable voltage iPPC fans? I ask because while almost all iPPC are PWM there is a 120mm and 140mm variable voltage models too.

Also, was the PWM hub this one or the original one that came in Enthoo Primo? Original was a different beast.

With more info I can ask Tealc if he could maybe check it out.

Tealc also gave me a basic schematic of hub, if anyone is interested.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Were they the PWM or variable voltage iPPC fans? I ask because while almost all iPPC are PWM there is a 120mm and 140mm variable voltage models too.
> 
> Also, was the PWM hub this one or the original one that came in Enthoo Primo? Original was a different beast.
> 
> With more info I can ask Tealc if he could maybe check it out.
> 
> Tealc also gave me a basic schematic of hub, if anyone is interested.


They were DC, and the condition happened on both hubs.

I found the original hub to have much better control than the new one, btw. BUT, I used far more different fans on the new model, so it could simply be a result of not testing the original as thoroughly.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> They were DC, and the condition happened on both hubs.
> 
> I found the original hub to have much better control than the new one, btw. BUT, I used far more different fans on the new model, so it could simply be a result of not testing the original as thoroughly.


Good to know it was on boht hubs.








+rep

I have both depending on case, but I haven't used them much. My setups have 4-6 PH-F140SP case fans, so have worked very well. I played with 10 (I think) in Primo for awhile, but didnt' keep that many in it for long. No reason to.


----------



## PetrasSukys

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Like carlatano said, it might be better to use two hubs.
> 
> The work very well with 4-11 fans. Less fan load and control is limited. More fan load and things are likely to get too hot.
> 
> A electronics mate of mine borrowed my PWM fan hub for testing. Her are is what he as found out so far.:
> 
> *Phanteks PWM hub*
> (PWM control converted to variable voltage fan hub)
> By Tealc
> 
> The Phanteks PWM hub is a small device that allows the user to control a number of 3 pin fans using your computer's native CPU PWM control signal, or valid PWM signal you choose to feed into it.
> 
> 
> 
> The hub measures approximately 45 x 40 x 15mm so is small enough to be tucked away behind a motherboard. The fans exit around the outside of the hub and this increases the footprint considerably but adds no further height.
> 
> The unit can be powered in two ways:-
> 
> Via computer PWM header using the standard 1 Amp header.
> Via special 2 pin connector and cable assembly to SATA connector for more power.
> Both can be connected as they have a shared connection on the PCB. To fully disconnect PWM header power the wires would need to be broken, or terminals pulled.
> 
> *How the device operates:*
> A PWM signal is taken from the single 4-pin connector and converted to DC power which then feeds each of the six 3-pin headers.
> 
> *How it works, the circuit:*
> A NPN transistor takes the PWM signal and sends it to a push pull NPN/PNP transistor pair where it is level shifted to a 12v PWM, this in turn feeds into a P-channel Mosfet which handles the switching of the 12v fan load. There is also an inductor and a capacitor on the output which does the smoothing and provides, more or less a DC voltage signal. A Schottky diode sits across the fan load and prevents any significant reverse transient spikes that could potentially destroy the Mosfet. There are a number of other resistors and diodes.
> 
> Interestingly there are a number of positions unpopulated, R5 (resistor), C2 (capacitor), D3 (diode), and perhaps most interesting of all on the front are spaces for three resistors and three LEDs. These are wired directly to the 12v source and the resistors are there to limit current. I feel this is an opportunity missed by Phanteks as they really would be better on the fan output and get brighter as output voltage increases.
> 
> *The benefits.*
> 
> Simple to use. Plug your fans in, provide power and PWM and the fans will adjust according to CPU temperature.
> Easy to tuck out of sight.
> Can be mounted on the chassis.
> Available with some cases fitted and also available in a neat plastic box.
> Energy efficient.
> 
> *The limitations, drawbacks and potential issues.*
> There is no adjustment that can be made to the output directly, all must be done in software, or by changing the fan load to effect a desired speed.
> 
> The hub is set up to work with an ideal load, of around 6 or 7 fans, which is around 15W. Too much above or below this load compromises the way the hub operates. With just one fan you will get 9v -12v. At a much higher load you'll get 3v-10.5v for the same duty cycle. See table and graph for detail.
> 
> 
> 
> Different fans will run at different speeds depending on their individual characteristic and there is no easy way to get feedback from the hub to the motherboard headers, only the white fan header feeds back.
> 
> At higher loads it was noticed that some voltage spikes occurred with the switching of the circuit, this may cause premature failure of the circuitry and produce extra heat. The image below shows a nice smooth trace with 4 fans, then the lower shows some spikes with 11 fans.
> 
> 
> 
> The Mosfet package can get very hot when a high load of fans is attached. With a load of 24W and 12 fans the Mosfet was too hot to touch after a few seconds at 50% duty cycle. This may cause premature failure. At low duty cycle the temperature was reduced. It may be possible to heatsink the mosfet, however it is a very small package measuring only 7mm x 5mm.
> 
> Without care it will be possible to overload your PWM fan header. Ideally 12v or ground should be disconnected from CPU_Fan lead if using external power source but this is not done automatically.
> 
> Not really suitable for 4 pin fans.
> 
> No LEDs.
> 
> *Testing*
> 
> For the purposes of this test I used a collection of 3 pin 12v fans I've accumulated over the years.
> I used a Gould OS300 oscilloscope to view output at the fan header.
> I used a 555 timer based 22000kHz variable PWM circuit to simulate the PWM.
> I also used a linear regulated 12v power supply which outputs a solid 12.3v no matter what load I throw at it.
> I measured current using a Mastech MS8268 DMM and voltage using Isotech IDM600 DMM.
> I estimated 20%, 50% PWM using the scale on the oscilloscope and actual max PWM is within a 1 or 2% of full 100% PWM.
> *Conclusion*
> I found the Phanteks PWM hub behaviour just as I'd expect from such a simple device. I was a little disappointed with the heat generated at higher loads but feel that multiple hubs could be employed to get around this issue. The circuit itself wouldn't load down the PWM signal too much so it's likely that 2 or 3 of these things would work just fine. Ideally Phanteks could have used a mosfet on the input, but to keep costs down they went with an NPN transistor.
> 
> I'd really like to see a version of this with temperature related LEDs and an adjustment to compensate for the amount of fans.
> 
> Tealc






Thanks to you and your friend!


----------



## Andrew LB

Yesterday i took delivery of an XSPC ex280 radiator which i plan on installing into the front of my Enthoo Pro M Acrylic (already have an XSPC ex360 up top) and my initial assessment is that ill be needing to mod the case in order for it to fit. So ill let you guys know how things went this afternoon when i hopefully get everything put back together.


----------



## smithydan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Andrew LB*
> 
> Yesterday i took delivery of an XSPC ex280 radiator which i plan on installing into the front of my Enthoo Pro M Acrylic (already have an XSPC ex360 up top) and my initial assessment is that ill be needing to mod the case in order for it to fit. So ill let you guys know how things went this afternoon when i hopefully get everything put back together.


Clarify why you think you need to mod the case?


----------



## Andrew LB

That is because a 280 mm radiator just doesn't fit in this case if you want to retain the hard drive bracket. What I ended up doing was mount the radiator lower than I had wanted so I would have clearance for the 360 and modified the cover that goes above the hard drive tray so I could still mount the pump to that plate. I also installed a ball valve to make draining easier. I just finished refilling the loop and it is currently leak testing which I'll do for a few more hours and if all is well I'll put the case back together then fire it up.


----------



## JedixJarf

Evolv ATX Glass checking in : )


----------



## springs113

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JedixJarf*
> 
> Evolv ATX Glass checking in : )


Looks good but why not utilize the front to keep from crossing up your runs?
Also could you have flipped the top rad and attached the pump to the 120mm rad then to the front of the case since the runs from the 120 went to the front anyways?
Why not use quick discos on both runs from the 120 rad? Assuming you used the qdcs for any change you may need.


----------



## kush621

That green fluid is really nice........


----------



## smithydan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *springs113*
> 
> Looks good but why not utilize the front to keep from crossing up your runs?
> Also could you have flipped the top rad and attached the pump to the 120mm rad then to the front of the case since the runs from the 120 went to the front anyways?
> Why not use quick discos on both runs from the 120 rad? Assuming you used the qdcs for any change you may need.


I was going to suggest something similar. I think there is opportunity for a better layout.


----------



## LegoFarmer

How do my phanteks phriends think an enthoo luxe would look with carbon fiber on the metal exterior? I think it would look pretty cool.


----------



## springs113

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smithydan*
> 
> I was going to suggest something similar. I think there is opportunity for a better layout.


i know right, and i love the color he/she chose. That rig would look sick.


----------



## capitaltpt

Has anybody heard anything about the Enthoo Elite? Did Phanteks scrap it?


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LegoFarmer*
> 
> How do my phanteks phriends think an enthoo luxe would look with carbon fiber on the metal exterior? I think it would look pretty cool.


yea, I've actually seen one. can't recall where though. maybe this very thread or another forum.


----------



## LegoFarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PureBlackFire*
> 
> yea, I've actually seen one. can't recall where though. maybe this very thread or another forum.


I must see! Help me find it


----------



## smithydan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *springs113*
> 
> i know right, and i love the color he/she chose. That rig would look sick.


Couldn't agree more


----------



## LegoFarmer

Could a 280mm rad fit in the front of the luxe?


----------



## doyll

@JedixJarf Nicely done! I think it looks just fine. How are your temps?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *capitaltpt*
> 
> Has anybody heard anything about the Enthoo Elite? Did Phanteks scrap it?


Last few things I heard about Enthoo Elite in the rumor mill were that they were about to do a 'trial production run in a week', then heard they postponed that run to make a few more changes. My guess in it is getting close to production, but not releasing before Xmas.


----------



## springs113

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> @JedixJarf Nicely done! I think it looks just fine. How are your temps?
> Last few things I heard about Enthoo Elite in the rumor mill were that they were about to do a 'trial production run in a week', then heard they postponed that run to make a few more changes. My guess in it is getting close to production, but not releasing before Xmas.


that missed release time frame they gave from September made me jump to a Caselabs case.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *springs113*
> 
> that missed release time frame they gave from September made me jump to a Caselabs case.


I'm glad Phanteks is working out all the bugs before going into production, but I can definitely understand people having to get some other case because they can't wait for Elite to come out. I'm hoping to get a chance to try the Elite when it comes out, but I'm in no rush and don't need it to do a build right now.


----------



## springs113

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> I'm glad Phanteks is working out all the bugs before going into production, but I can definitely understand people having to get some other case because they can't wait for Elite to come out. I'm hoping to get a chance to try the Elite when it comes out, but I'm in no rush and don't need it to do a build right now.


true but it's been just about a year now, i think we've all waited a long time now. Even if all they did was talk about some things that they've encountered which I'd the cause i think a lot of us would be satisfied.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *springs113*
> 
> true but it's been just about a year now, i think we've all waited a long time now. Even if all they did was talk about some things that they've encountered which I'd the cause i think a lot of us would be satisfied.


Like I said, I understand. But we need to keep in mind Phanteks is not the only one developing cases, and if two similar cases are both about to be released the first one out is likely to have the best sales .. end result is nobody wants anybody else knowing what they are doing or when they will release it .. so the use trade shows to show us new ideas (advertising), then go quiet for security reasons. Good old industrial espionage at it's best. "My name is Bond', and all that rot.


----------



## mrpurplehawk

On the topic of the elite, was there a known price or just a guessed one?


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mrpurplehawk*
> 
> On the topic of the elite, was there a known price or just a guessed one?


I have seen no 'offical' price from Phanteks.


----------



## capitaltpt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mrpurplehawk*
> 
> On the topic of the elite, was there a known price or just a guessed one?


Phanteks themselves said about $699 back at Computex


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *capitaltpt*
> 
> Phanteks themselves said about $699 back at Computex


Yeah, but 'about' is not 'offical' price, especially 6 months later.
Just look at all the things politicians 'offically' say and then see how many of those statements are still factual a few days later.


----------



## capitaltpt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *capitaltpt*
> 
> Phanteks themselves said about $699 back at Computex
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah, but 'about' is not 'offical' price, especially 6 months later.
> Just look at all the things politicians 'offically' say and then see how many of those statements are still factual a few days later.
Click to expand...

While true, I don't see them pulling this case off above $699. There's already push back on the price and Phanteks has already established itself as the better priced option for most of its cases (i.e. Primo vs. Corsair 900D). The delay is probably because they're trying to figure out how to get it at that price and still have everything it needs.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *capitaltpt*
> 
> While true, I don't see them pulling this case off above $699. There's already push back on the price and Phanteks has already established itself as the better priced option for most of its cases (i.e. Primo vs. Corsair 900D). The delay is probably because they're trying to figure out how to get it at that price and still have everything it needs.


I agree it's a good guess and might even be a good bet. Just saying I have not seen any 'official' price posted yet.


----------



## Dimensive

I just rebuilt my gaming rig in an EVOLV ITX after it being in a Node 202. I had originally bought the EVOLV ITX the day it became available, but was unhappy with my temperatures. After a lot of time spent learning about airflow and keeping my components cool, I decided to give this case a second chance. For one, I've always liked the looks of it and two, the Node 202 wasn't cutting it in the temperature/noise department. I'm much happier with the EVOLV after learning from my mistakes.

Case: Phanteks EVOLV ITX
Motherboard: ASRock Z97E-ITX/ac
CPU: Intel Core i7-4790K
Cooler: CRYORIG H7
RAM: 16GB G.SKILL Sniper Series DDR3 2400MHz
GPU: EVGA GTX 1070 SC ACX 3.0 (Black Edition)
PSU: XFX XTR 550W
SSD: 60GB Corsair Force LS
HDD: 2TB Seagate Momentus
OS: Microsoft Windows 10 Pro x64


----------



## Aggrotech

Anyone have any idea if the enthoo evolv atx tempered glass version will go on sale for BF? All this waiting blows!


----------



## dlewbell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LegoFarmer*
> 
> Could a 280mm rad fit in the front of the luxe?


No. You can fit 2×140mm fans there, but they span from the bottom of the case to the bottom of the ODD cage. There's no room left for the end caps on a 280mm rad.


----------



## LegoFarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dlewbell*
> 
> No. You can fit 2×140mm fans there, but they span from the bottom of the case to the bottom of the ODD cage. There's no room left for the end caps on a 280mm rad.


Okay, I'll remove the top bays and phanteks logo panel then. I'll have way more room after.


----------



## springs113

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Like I said, I understand. But we need to keep in mind Phanteks is not the only one developing cases, and if two similar cases are both about to be released the first one out is likely to have the best sales .. end result is nobody wants anybody else knowing what they are doing or when they will release it .. so the use trade shows to show us new ideas (advertising), then go quiet for security reasons. Good old industrial espionage at it's best. "My name is Bond', and all that rot.


i totally agree with you I'm just venting...i really wanted that case.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *springs113*
> 
> i totally agree with you I'm just venting...i really wanted that case.


I totally understand. I hate the trade shows. They show us a bunch of nice ideas and designs that as often as not never become available. Back in 2010 Thermalright previewed a case called 'Box 1'. Super good front to back airflow design. We still don't have a case with as good an airflow desing, although Silverstone has the rotated motherboard bottom to top design.


----------



## springs113

that looks good, I don't remember that case though.


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dimensive*
> 
> I just rebuilt my gaming rig in an EVOLV ITX after it being in a Node 202. I had originally bought the EVOLV ITX the day it became available, but was unhappy with my temperatures. After a lot of time spent learning about airflow and keeping my components cool, I decided to give this case a second chance. For one, I've always liked the looks of it and two, the Node 202 wasn't cutting it in the temperature/noise department. I'm much happier with the EVOLV after learning from my mistakes.
> 
> Case: Phanteks EVOLV ITX
> Motherboard: ASRock Z97E-ITX/ac
> CPU: Intel Core i7-4790K
> Cooler: CRYORIG H7
> RAM: 16GB G.SKILL Sniper Series DDR3 2400MHz
> GPU: EVGA GTX 1070 SC ACX 3.0 (Black Edition)
> PSU: XFX XTR 550W
> SSD: 60GB Corsair Force LS
> HDD: 2TB Seagate Momentus
> OS: Microsoft Windows 10 Pro x64
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


It's a nice, clean build but you didn't say how your temps are now.


----------



## Dimensive

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rfarmer*
> 
> It's a nice, clean build but you didn't say how your temps are now.


This is true. To start, I actually had my EVGA 980 SC ACX 2.0 in the Node 202 and it actually hit 90c without fans in the GPU chamber. I moved my 1070 over with 2 120mm fans in there and it would typically hit the mid 70's to low 80's. The CPU would always be in the 70's under load and 80's under extreme load. Now in the EVOLV ITX, both the CPU and GPU are in the mid 60's and it's much quieter. I don't have exact numbers, but I'm much happier with the EVOLV ITX.


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dimensive*
> 
> This is true. To start, I actually had my EVGA 980 SC ACX 2.0 in the Node 202 and it actually hit 90c without fans in the GPU chamber. I moved my 1070 over with 2 120mm fans in there and it would typically hit the mid 70's to low 80's. The CPU would always be in the 70's under load and 80's under extreme load. Now in the EVOLV ITX, both the CPU and GPU are in the mid 60's and it's much quieter. I don't have exact numbers, but I'm much happier with the EVOLV ITX.


Yeah temps like that you can live with, it's too bad the cooling is so bad in the Node 202 it is a cool looking case.


----------



## Dimensive

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rfarmer*
> 
> Yeah temps like that you can live with, it's too bad the cooling is so bad in the Node 202 it is a cool looking case.


I really wanted the Node 202 to work out because it's a nice looking case, but I couldn't stand the heat or noise.


----------



## LegoFarmer

Is it easy to move that front panel w/ the phanteks logo to the back like this? Does anybody know? I want to do it to mine, but I also hope I can have room for a 280mm rad afterwards.


----------



## Dooxy

Has any one fit a Cryorig R1 Universal in a Phanteks Enthoo EVOLV ITX and also still have room for a back fan? ifs so any pictures? i will still look around. but feel it was worth throw out a hook here.


----------



## JJJ1

Hello,

Following overclocking my 4690k to 4.5ghz, my corsair 200r, struggles with temps (still a touch high for winter at 66c) and then that's only when I pop the drive bay covers off and have a zip tied 120mm fan on 100%, in a direct line to my cpu cooler. So the plan is to upgrade the cpu cooler from a Raijintek Themis to a NOC DH15 or similar standard and upgrade the case. I don't like having a big hole in the front of the case.

I really like the Phantek enthoo ATX pro M and Evolv. My worry is the evolv wont give enough air flow for a air setup, due to the solid front, unless the slide slits are deceptively effective? I know a 120mm fan can fit in addition to the 140's to improve flow. The pro M has the front and top mesh, in theory should give better airflow, but the top drive bays are sealed in terms of adding a fan, I worry it would be the same situation as current without access to a direct front to back airflow at the top?

Any thoughts? Thanks in advance!


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JJJ1*
> 
> Hello,
> 
> Following overclocking my 4690k to 4.5ghz, my corsair 200r, struggles with temps (still a touch high for winter at 66c) and then that's only when I pop the drive bay covers off and have a zip tied 120mm fan on 100%, in a direct line to my cpu cooler. So the plan is to upgrade the cpu cooler from a Raijintek Themis to a NOC DH15 or similar standard and upgrade the case. I don't like having a big hole in the front of the case.
> 
> I really like the Phantek enthoo ATX pro M and Evolv. My worry is the evolv wont give enough air flow for a air setup, due to the solid front, unless the slide slits are deceptively effective? I know a 120mm fan can fit in addition to the 140's to improve flow. The pro M has the front and top mesh, in theory should give better airflow, but the top drive bays are sealed in terms of adding a fan, I worry it would be the same situation as current without access to a direct front to back airflow at the top?
> 
> Any thoughts? Thanks in advance!


The restrictive nature of the Evolv ATX is more on the top exhaust than the intake. It does very well with air cooled setups.....well, at least when people down't do crazy things like downgrade the included fans. There are also a couple of methods of spacing out the front easily that doubles the size of the intake area.

The Pro M will flow better if you add a second F140SP to the front. The big advantage of the Evolv ATX in an air cooled system is the looks.

That said, either will provide much better airflow than your 200r, and are far better built and designed cases. Either is a big step up in a lot of ways.


----------



## Dorito Bandit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dimensive*
> 
> I just rebuilt my gaming rig in an EVOLV ITX after it being in a Node 202. I had originally bought the EVOLV ITX the day it became available, but was unhappy with my temperatures. After a lot of time spent learning about airflow and keeping my components cool, I decided to give this case a second chance. For one, I've always liked the looks of it and two, the Node 202 wasn't cutting it in the temperature/noise department. I'm much happier with the EVOLV after learning from my mistakes.
> 
> Case: Phanteks EVOLV ITX
> Motherboard: ASRock Z97E-ITX/ac
> CPU: Intel Core i7-4790K
> Cooler: CRYORIG H7
> RAM: 16GB G.SKILL Sniper Series DDR3 2400MHz
> GPU: EVGA GTX 1070 SC ACX 3.0 (Black Edition)
> PSU: XFX XTR 550W
> SSD: 60GB Corsair Force LS
> HDD: 2TB Seagate Momentus
> OS: Microsoft Windows 10 Pro x64


Very nice!







How do you like the Cryorig H7 cooler? I am bout to pull the trigger on it.


----------



## Dorito Bandit

Phanteks Enthoo Pro Case Fans Recommendations

What fans would you all recommend for the front of the Phanteks Enthoo Pro? Looking for 120mm or 140mm options.

Just so there is no confusion, here's what the front of the case looks like. It is well ventilated with the mesh front.



Right now I am using the stock 200mm fan, and it's really not bad. But I can hear a slight knocking noise when it is very quiet.

Thanks in advance!


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dorito Bandit*
> 
> Phanteks Enthoo Pro Case Fans Recommendations
> 
> What fans would you all recommend for the front of the Phanteks Enthoo Pro? Looking for 120mm or 140mm options.
> 
> Just so there is no confusion, here's what the front of the case looks like. It is well ventilated with the mesh front.
> 
> Right now I am using the stock 200mm fan, and it's really not bad. But I can hear a slight knocking noise when it is very quiet.
> 
> Thanks in advance!


Switching out the 200mm to a pair of F140SP has been done by many here. You will be hard pressed to find a pair of intake fans that will perform as well in that (or any other) case at any price, and they happen to be very reasonably priced. Great airflow and good SP, low noise and an excellent rpm range.


----------



## Dimensive

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dorito Bandit*
> 
> Very nice!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> How do you like the Cryorig H7 cooler? I am bout to pull the trigger on it.


Thank you! I have 2 H7's and have been very happy with them. They're very easy to mount and performance per dollar, they're perfect. It's on sale now at Newegg: http://flash.newegg.com/Product/9SIA4UF2DZ6565.


----------



## Dorito Bandit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Switching out the 200mm to a pair of F140SP has been done by many here. You will be hard pressed to find a pair of intake fans that will perform as well in that (or any other) case at any price, and they happen to be very reasonably priced. Great airflow and good SP, low noise and an excellent rpm range.


Was actually looking at those earlier. Thanks for the info.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dimensive*
> 
> Thank you! I have 2 H7's and have been very happy with them. They're very easy to mount and performance per dollar, they're perfect. It's on sale now at Newegg: http://flash.newegg.com/Product/9SIA4UF2DZ6565.


Great to hear! Thanks!


----------



## Dorito Bandit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Switching out the 200mm to a pair of F140SP has been done by many here. You will be hard pressed to find a pair of intake fans that will perform as well in that (or any other) case at any price, and they happen to be very reasonably priced. Great airflow and good SP, low noise and an excellent rpm range.


I thought you were talking about Corsair fans. Are you referring to these Phanteks fans? http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835709046&cm_re=F140SP-_-35-709-046-_-Product


----------



## Dimensive

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dorito Bandit*
> 
> Great to hear! Thanks!


You're welcome. Also, GO DAWGS!


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dorito Bandit*
> 
> I thought you were talking about Corsair fans. Are you referring to these Phanteks fans? http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835709046&cm_re=F140SP-_-35-709-046-_-Product


Oh, no, no ,no, no, *no*. You would have to really do me wrong to get me to tell you to use Corsair fans. I'm not even sure I could utter the words "I would recommend Corsair fans" without bursting into laughter. I absolutely was referring to the *Phanteks F140SP* that you have linked.


----------



## Dorito Bandit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dimensive*
> 
> You're welcome. Also, GO DAWGS!


GO DAWGS! BEAT TECH!









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Oh, no, no ,no, no, *no*. You would have to really do me wrong to get me to tell you to use Corsair fans. I'm not even sure I could utter the words "I would recommend Corsair fans" without bursting into laughter. I absolutely was referring to the *Phanteks F140SP* that you have linked.


LOL I hear ya! The Phanteks fans are not PWM fans, does it really it matter?

Also, I think my case came with 1 of these F140SP fans for the exhaust fan.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dorito Bandit*
> 
> LOL I hear ya! The Phanteks fans are not PWM fans, does it really it matter?
> 
> Also, I think my case came with 1 of these F140SP fans for the exhaust fan.


Yes, the case comes with an F140SP as exhaust. Unless you were planning on using the intakes on a PWM controlled header, then you want the DC controlled F140SP. If you want the same fan with PWM, it is the F140XP.


----------



## rfarmer

If you are in the US Newegg has the Pro for $69.99 after rebate. http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811854003


----------



## Dorito Bandit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Yes, the case comes with an F140SP as exhaust. Unless you were planning on using the intakes on a PWM controlled header, then you want the DC controlled F140SP. If you want the same fan with PWM, it is the F140XP.


I was just going to connect them to my motherboard fan headers like I am doing now.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rfarmer*
> 
> If you are in the US Newegg has the Pro for $69.99 after rebate. http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811854003


Yeah, that's a great deal. I already own the case and really like it.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dorito Bandit*
> 
> I was just going to connect them to my motherboard fan headers like I am doing now.
> Yeah, that's a great deal. I already own the case and really like it.


Then you would want the F140SP, unless for some strange reason you are connecting them to the CPU fan headers.


----------



## Testing12

I thought maybe the Enthoo Pro M Tempered Glass would be poppin' up about now.
Still waiting...


----------



## TheWizardMan

I really want the Luxe.









Edit: Tempered glass to be released so I can start my build.


----------



## ironhide138

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dimensive*
> 
> I just rebuilt my gaming rig in an EVOLV ITX after it being in a Node 202. I had originally bought the EVOLV ITX the day it became available, but was unhappy with my temperatures. After a lot of time spent learning about airflow and keeping my components cool, I decided to give this case a second chance. For one, I've always liked the looks of it and two, the Node 202 wasn't cutting it in the temperature/noise department. I'm much happier with the EVOLV after learning from my mistakes.
> 
> Case: Phanteks EVOLV ITX
> Motherboard: ASRock Z97E-ITX/ac
> CPU: Intel Core i7-4790K
> Cooler: CRYORIG H7
> RAM: 16GB G.SKILL Sniper Series DDR3 2400MHz
> GPU: EVGA GTX 1070 SC ACX 3.0 (Black Edition)
> PSU: XFX XTR 550W
> SSD: 60GB Corsair Force LS
> HDD: 2TB Seagate Momentus
> OS: Microsoft Windows


What are your temps like? I'm tempted to build an mitx build in this case.

Anyone know if/when they plan on showing off new cases? I'd love a matx evolve with a bigger side window, or an atx evolve that's a little more...compact. without all that hdd/ssd area up from.shave some of the room in the front off, leave just enough room for longer gpus and a rad/fan to fit...I'd be so down


----------



## Dimensive

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ironhide138*
> 
> What are your temps like? I'm tempted to build an mitx build in this case.
> 
> Anyone know if/when they plan on showing off new cases? I'd love a matx evolve with a bigger side window, or an atx evolve that's a little more...compact. without all that hdd/ssd area up from.shave some of the room in the front off, leave just enough room for longer gpus and a rad/fan to fit...I'd be so down


I just did Metro: Last Light Redux bench 3x and the CPU maxed at 58c and GPU maxed at 69c.

As for new cases, the next event is CES 2017 in the first week of January, but who knows what we'll see.


----------



## BinaryBummer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dimensive*
> 
> I just did Metro: Last Light Redux bench 3x and the CPU maxed at 58c and GPU maxed at 69c.
> 
> As for new cases, the next event is CES 2017 in the first week of January, but who knows what we'll see.


I lost my Metro2033 ISO. I had it on the drive that got crapped so now i can't get it from Digital Rivers since it is to old since I got it. I still have my email and code for it.. Another reason I don't like all the streaming stuff.

having a hard copy is still best.


----------



## mrpurplehawk

Could use some opinions from you guys as I am buying parts for my water build but can't decide on which color combo would look the best. Will be a hardtube build with a 360mm in the bottom and a 480mm in the roof. I attached a picture of my current setup for reference as the hardware itself won't change, just adding a full water loop.

Coolant will be Mayhem's Purple (Not pastel) and the blocks will be black. Will be redoing cables with a white/black/purple scheme

Option 1: White fittings, white radiators, Corsair SP120 fans with the white ring

Option 2: White fittings, Black radiators, white EK vardars

Option 3: Black fittings, black radiators, corsair Sp120 with white rings

Option 4: Something other than I listed? White/Purple/Black color scheme

Pic for reference:


Thanks


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mrpurplehawk*
> 
> Could use some opinions from you guys as I am buying parts for my water build but can't decide on which color combo would look the best. Will be a hardtube build with a 360mm in the bottom and a 480mm in the roof. I attached a picture of my current setup for reference as the hardware itself won't change, just adding a full water loop.
> 
> Coolant will be Mayhem's Purple (Not pastel) and the blocks will be black. Will be redoing cables with a white/black/purple scheme
> 
> Option 1: White fittings, white radiators, Corsair SP120 fans with the white ring
> 
> Option 2: White fittings, Black radiators, white EK vardars
> 
> Option 3: Black fittings, black radiators, corsair Sp120 with white rings
> 
> Option 4: Something other than I listed? White/Purple/Black color scheme
> 
> Thanks


Don't spend all of that money on quality components and use garbage fans. There are plenty of good looking black and white fans that actually perform well and don't sound like an Apache helicopter trying to lift off.


----------



## mrpurplehawk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Don't spend all of that money on quality components and use garbage fans. There are plenty of good looking black and white fans that actually perform well and don't sound like an Apache helicopter trying to lift off.


Please educate me then, which would those be? Fans are far from my area of expertise.


----------



## KaffieneKing

I think vardars (especially the F4 ER version) are pretty decent fans and run at low rpms whilst still pushing good amounts of air through.

Having said that I think black fans+rad and white fittings would look good


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mrpurplehawk*
> 
> Please educate me then, which would those be? Fans are far from my area of expertise.


eLoops, Vardars, Phanteks F120MP (which would match up perfectly with your exhaust, of course). The ML120 aren't a bad fan, but they are way overpriced and have had a slew of noise issues and defects.

BTW - I have done a number of builds in Primos. A 60mm thick 280 in the bottom fits like a glove and looks much sleeker than a 360. You essentially lose no cooling capability while getting a more finished look and it leaves you with more room to work with in front of the rad.


----------



## mrpurplehawk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaffieneKing*
> 
> I think vardars (especially the F4 ER version) are pretty decent fans and run at low rpms whilst still pushing good amounts of air through.
> 
> Having said that I think black fans+rad and white fittings would look good


Thank you for the input, I will look into those a bit more.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> eLoops, Vardars, Phanteks F120MP (which would match up perfectly with your exhaust, of course). The ML120 aren't a bad fan, but they are way overpriced and have had a slew of noise issues and defects.
> 
> BTW - I have done a number of builds in Primos. A 60mm thick 280 in the bottom fits like a glove and looks much sleeker than a 360. You essentially lose no cooling capability while getting a more finished look and it leaves you with more room to work with in front of the rad.


I didn't realize the Phanteks were good, I honestly just left them there as placeholders or the time being, I'll have to look into those some more

As far as the bottom rad, that is probably a better idea, I plan on mounting the pump in front of that rad anyways.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mrpurplehawk*
> 
> Thank you for the input, I will look into those a bit more.
> I didn't realize the Phanteks were good, I honestly just left them there as placeholders or the time being, I'll have to look into those some more
> 
> As far as the bottom rad, that is probably a better idea, I plan on mounting the pump in front of that rad anyways.


You would be hard pressed to find better fans for intake and exhaust on most cases, the Primo included, at any price. Great air flow, good static pressure, quiet and they have an incredibly wide rpm range and low start speed. On my rads I went through eLoops, GTs, Noctuas (FLX and iPPC) and BQs before going to the F120MP permanently. I am not saying that the F120MP is _better_ than the eLoop or GT, but they certainly are as good in my applications, and distinctly better than the Noctuas or BQ. All of which are far better than anything that has ever had a little sailboat on it.

And the 280 on the bottom will allow you to easily mount the pump in front of it. BTW, keep in mind that Nemesis 280mm rads will not fit there. I think that the Nemesis 360 is too wide also, if I am remembering correctly. EK, XSPC, Alphacool are all no problem.


----------



## mrpurplehawk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> You would be hard pressed to find better fans for intake and exhaust on most cases, the Primo included, at any price. Great air flow, good static pressure, quiet and they have an incredibly wide rpm range and low start speed. On my rads I went through eLoops, GTs, Noctuas (FLX and iPPC) and BQs before going to the F120MP permanently. I am not saying that the F120MP is _better_ than the eLoop or GT, but they certainly are as good in my applications, and distinctly better than the Noctuas or BQ. All of which are far better than anything that has ever had a little sailboat on it.
> 
> And the 280 on the bottom will allow you to easily mount the pump in front of it. BTW, keep in mind that Nemesis 280mm rads will not fit there. I think that the Nemesis 360 is too wide also, if I am remembering correctly. EK, XSPC, Alphacool are all no problem.


I guess that makes it easy for me, thanks for all the info!

I plan on use alphacool rads specifically the "monsta" on the bottom so that shouldn't be an issue I don't think. I am leaning toward the black rad, black/white fans and white fittings.

Edit: Just realizing they don't have a 280mm "monsta" so I guess I will go with the UT60


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mrpurplehawk*
> 
> I guess that makes it easy for me, thanks for all the info!
> 
> I plan on use alphacool rads specifically the "monsta" on the bottom so that shouldn't be an issue I don't think. I am leaning toward the black rad, black/white fans and white fittings.
> 
> Edit: Just realizing they don't have a 280mm "monsta" so I guess I will go with the UT60


The UT60 also lines up really nicely with the shelf inside. The Monsta is also a total dog in performance at low and moderate fan speeds, it's really hard to get air through it. The UT60 performs better at lower fan speeds and will look great in the case. Here are coupl of pics when I had the UT60 280mm in the bottom of the Primo. Pardon the messy tubing, had to order all of the parts and fittings sight unseen and had a review deadline for the case, had to work with what I had on hand. But you can see the way it fits in perfectly.


----------



## Roadrunners

I've bought a Primo Enthoo and would like some advice on rads. I am so far planning on placing a XT45 420 X-Flow in the roof of the case and can't decide what route to take for the bottom of the case.

So far I am leaning towards the XT45 360 X-Flow. Would a 480 be just as easy to fit and would the X-Flow be a good choice? I am planning on placing my pump in the rear chamber.


----------



## kradkovich

Got the phanteks enthoo evolv atx tempered glass few days ago, one of the prettiest looking cases out in the market right now! Took me roughly 6 hours to disassemble my nzxt s340, clean, and place everything into the evolv. Here is what it looks like right now


----------



## kovyrshin

I'm looking into getting EVOLV ATX regular or TG version.
If ther's a chance to get TG with solid back panel? I dont wanna expose all my mess through glass. May be there's someone with regular EVOLV who want a clear panel, and we can swap panels? I know this will require some modding.

Any advantages on TG case, compared to regular version?


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kovyrshin*
> 
> I'm looking into getting EVOLV ATX regular or TG version.
> If ther's a chance to get TG with solid back panel? I dont wanna expose all my mess through glass. May be there's someone with regular EVOLV who want a clear panel, and we can swap panels? I know this will require some modding.
> 
> Any advantages on TG case, compared to regular version?


Get the TG version. It just makes your build look that little extra special.

The glass back panel is easily fixed with some black vinyl wrap and double sided tape. Just cut a big rectangle to cover the transparent part, cut out the mounting holes, adhere with some tape and call it a day!









Not my build, but a good example...



Obviously, you could get creative with lighting and cut outs if you are feeling adventurous. I am actually considering doing an illuminated Phanteks logo on the back side.


----------



## demitrisln

Hey was wondering if anybody has done any mods to the Phanteks ENTHOO PRIMO to add a GPU riser to it? Would be interested to see how you did this?

Appreciate it in advance.


----------



## luukelbo

Last week i made my first custom loop with 12mm petg, it was a lot of fun Building it.

Magicool dcp450
Magicool slim 240
Phobya uc-2 lt
Coolforce cf1 Fittings
Coolforce 12mm PETG
Vsc Heat carrier and a few drops of mayhems blue dye

























Verstuurd vanaf mijn Nexus 6P met Tapatalk


----------



## springs113

Looking good couldn't tell that it was done by a first timer


----------



## doyll

Very well done @luukelbo !


----------



## paskowitz

@luukelbo The lighting totally makes that. Nice job!


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *luukelbo*
> 
> Last week i made my first custom loop with 12mm petg, it was a lot of fun Building it.
> 
> Magicool dcp450
> Magicool slim 240
> Phobya uc-2 lt
> Coolforce cf1 Fittings
> Coolforce 12mm PETG
> Vsc Heat carrier and a few drops of mayhems blue dye
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Verstuurd vanaf mijn Nexus 6P met Tapatalk


Very nicely done!

But...

Your build: 
Your avatar: 

You should get that changed.


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Very nicely done!
> 
> But...
> 
> Your build:
> Your avatar:
> 
> You should get that changed.


lol


----------



## luukelbo

@ciaratano ssssst you might upset the all mighty h100i hahaha Yeah i gues it's gotta go

Verstuurd vanaf mijn Nexus 6P met Tapatalk


----------



## scracy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *luukelbo*
> 
> Last week i made my first custom loop with 12mm petg, it was a lot of fun Building it.
> 
> Magicool dcp450
> Magicool slim 240
> Phobya uc-2 lt
> Coolforce cf1 Fittings
> Coolforce 12mm PETG
> Vsc Heat carrier and a few drops of mayhems blue dye
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Verstuurd vanaf mijn Nexus 6P met Tapatalk


Very nice job im in the same boat first time hardline tubing


----------



## XanderTheGoober

OK i need some help making a decision.
I just got the enthoo pro and so far it has a lot of options, but not as big as i thought. I want to fit all my radiators in it for maximum cooling, but also need space for hard drives. So with that said i need to ditch 1 of the 120mm rads I have, I have a thick one and a normal thickness one.
I plan on putting 1 240 up top, 1 of the 120s in the back, and 1 of the 240s in the bottom. I would like a second opinion about which 120 rad to use in the rear, thick or thin.
also, any advice on tubing route. yes yes i know order doesn't matter and all that jazz but just wanting some advice here.
pic for reference, sorry for bad quality.


----------



## springs113

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XanderTheGoober*
> 
> OK i need some help making a decision.
> I just got the enthoo pro and so far it has a lot of options, but not as big as i thought. I want to fit all my radiators in it for maximum cooling, but also need space for hard drives. So with that said i need to ditch 1 of the 120mm rads I have, I have a thick one and a normal thickness one.
> I plan on putting 1 240 up top, 1 of the 120s in the back, and 1 of the 240s in the bottom. I would like a second opinion about which 120 rad to use in the rear, thick or thin.
> also, any advice on tubing route. yes yes i know order doesn't matter and all that jazz but just wanting some advice here.
> pic for reference, sorry for bad quality.


I say if you can get a hardware labs gts 360. If that is not an option or you just don't want to put money into purchasing another rad then go with only 2 240mm rads. I would use one up top and one in the front, but first I would like to know your system specs to be able to elaborate some more.


----------



## XanderTheGoober

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *springs113*
> 
> I say if you can get a hardware labs gts 360. If that is not an option or you just don't want to put money into purchasing another rad then go with only 2 240mm rads. I would use one up top and one in the front, but first I would like to know your system specs to be able to elaborate some more.


it's my rogmaximus rig
I7 4770k, 970, 16 GB of RAM, single SSD and three 3tb hard drives, also I just came from essentially 4x120 rad space so I don't really want to settle with just that and I don't really want to dump much more money into the project.

EDIT: also forgot to mention I will need at least 2 of the 5.25 inch bays (1Xdvd drive, 1Xfront I/O, and 1 fan controller, but I am attempting to ditch the fan controller in favor of the pwm fan hub that comes with this case, I should have enough splitters to run all of the fans off of the 1 hub. I also need space to put 2 fill ports at the top of the case, for conveniences. My thought was to put these way in front and use a 120mm fan grill with holes drilled in it to hold them in place.


----------



## smithydan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *scracy*
> 
> Very nice job im in the same boat first time hardline tubing


This build is awesome, well done. I like how you did the additional ssd


----------



## scracy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smithydan*
> 
> This build is awesome, well done. I like how you did the additional ssd


Thanks glad you like im very happy with both its looks and performance. I used the screws from infront of the power supply area to mount the extra ssd as i needed 4 ssd mounts for the raid 0 data array. I must say these Phanteks cases are really easy to build with and offer so much flexibility especially for water cooling awesome cases at a reasonable price:thumb: build specs in my signature below


----------



## KoolDrew

Just joined the club with the Enthoo PRO M Acrylic











Cable management was a breeze in this thing and I love the look. Now I want to add some lights and do a custom water loop (it'd be my first). I'm not sure if I should hold off on the custom loop until I upgrade my components. It almost seems like a waste to drop a bunch of money on a custom loop when I could use it on components. But at the same time I'm currently happy with the performance of my rig, but have a genuine interest in doing a custom loop at least once. This case seems perfect for it too, so it almost seems like a waste not doing so!


----------



## Testing12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KoolDrew*
> 
> Just joined the club with the Enthoo PRO M Acrylic
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cable management was a breeze in this thing and I love the look.


Awesome, thanks for sharing!
I think I've settled on this case as well. However, I am waiting for the tempered glass version, which I've been told by Phanteks USA will be out sometime in early this month (December).
It has so many positives for what I need and am looking for.

Good luck with your custom loop (if you decide to go ahead with it). Should look amazing in the Enthoo Pro M!


----------



## 19DELTASNAFU

My "slightly" modified Entho Luxe. What would you guys do differently if it was yours. Would you go with the Monsoon res or stay with the EK. I have a multi top with down pipe coming this week that will stop the bubbles. Blood red coolant or stay with clear. Also after only 6 months I have an issue with the small piece of EK soft tubing for my drain, plan on just mounting the drain **** where the soft tubing starts and when I have to drain the system I'll just screw a piece of soft onto the drain ****. Cant believe anybody uses soft tubing. The coolant and small piece of tubing are from EK which should be good but the evidence speaks for itself. It has clouded my whole system in only six months. Thinking of mounting the Monsoon res on a 1/4 in thick by 220mm long piece of plexi and screwing into the 1/4 inch from the rear of the case. The white plexi back wall is 1/2 inch thick and took alot of time and effort to get perfect, even the pop tabs to remove the front case cover were bored exactly so the front pops in as it should and the case is 100% solid with 0 flex.. What would you change or improve if it was yours??


----------



## springs113

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *19DELTASNAFU*
> 
> My "slightly" modified Entho Luxe. What would you guys do differently if it was yours. Would you go with the Monsoon res or stay with the EK. I have a multi top with down pipe coming this week that will stop the bubbles. Blood red coolant or stay with clear. Also after only 6 months I have an issue with the small piece of EK soft tubing for my drain, plan on just mounting the drain **** where the soft tubing starts and when I have to drain the system I'll just screw a piece of soft onto the drain ****. Cant believe anybody uses soft tubing. The coolant and small piece of tubing are from EK which should be good but the evidence speaks for itself. It has clouded my whole system in only six months. Thinking of mounting the Monsoon res on a 1/4 in thick by 220mm long piece of plexi and screwing into the 1/4 inch from the rear of the case. The white plexi back wall is 1/2 inch thick and took alot of time and effort to get perfect, even the pop tabs to remove the front case cover were bored exactly so the front pops in as it should and the case is 100% solid with 0 flex.. What would you change or improve if it was yours??


briefly watched the video as I'm currently on my phone, but you did good. There's nothing wrong with soft tubing, just use the right one(primochill advanced lrt) i have them in all my builds that used soft tubing. Since you have that going through your loop your are definitely going to need to flush your system out and give your blocks a good flush because the tiny rivets and seams can get clogged.


----------



## smaudioz

Do any of you have the issue with the Phanteks LED strips in your Phanteks case of them not remembering what colour is was set to before powering off? I am getting this and usually it goes like this: Power on > set LED white > Power Off > Power On and LED is red. Sometimes after the first power off/on it will remember it but always after the 2nd power off/on it reverts to red. Anybody else had this?


----------



## Sazexa

Is there any news/information on the release of the Enthoo Elite?


----------



## dlewbell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smaudioz*
> 
> Do any of you have the issue with the Phanteks LED strips in your Phanteks case of them not remembering what colour is was set to before powering off? I am getting this and usually it goes like this: Power on > set LED white > Power Off > Power On and LED is red. Sometimes after the first power off/on it will remember it but always after the 2nd power off/on it reverts to red. Anybody else had this?


Mine works fine. I keep mine set to blue, & after 9 months so far it has never forgotten the color. That said, you're not the first person I've heard mention this issue. I don't know what if any resolution they found though.


----------



## TheWizardMan

Why is the luxe tg available everywhere but the USA?


----------



## mrpurplehawk

I am a bit of a predicament right now. I love my Primo so much but I am buying a Caselabs SM8 tomorrow for a super legit price. Looks like I many need to find a use for 2 high end systems


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheWizardMan*
> 
> Why is the luxe tg available everywhere but the USA?


Who knows? Maybe the spun the bottle to decide where the containers full of them would go and USA lost.








USA is only one part of a huge retail market, and it may not always the best place to ship limited products to if the supply is limited. Other markets may give better profit margins, shipping availability may be limited, etc.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mrpurplehawk*
> 
> Maybe I will run into the answer while I am at it.
> 
> I did move my second desk back into my "office" so my tower can have its own place to sit again. Feels good having extra desk room. 65" wasn't enough any longer


It's amazing how fans what looked lke a huge empty desk become small when things get on it.








Being a retired custom woodworker I have built a fair few desks. Made a bunch 4'x8'x30" deep tops in an 'L' shape with keyboard & mouse in lowered section on inside of 'L' corner. Many ended up with an additional top on desk hieght file cabinet on short end of 'L' and some on both ends of 'L'


----------



## mrpurplehawk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> It's amazing how fans what looked lke a huge empty desk become small when things get on it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Being a retired custom woodworker I have built a fair few desks. Made a bunch 4'x8'x30" deep tops in an 'L' shape with keyboard & mouse in lowered section on inside of 'L' corner. Many ended up with an additional top on desk hieght file cabinet on short end of 'L' and some on both ends of 'L'


I wish I had the the tools and space to make my own desk, sadly not so easy in an apartment. My primary desk is a 30"x65" top while my 2nd desk is 24"x44". Makes a decent L area but I really just like to have it for my tower. At some point I need to order the drawer unit for the desk though, I hate having stuff on here that I don't need immediately.


----------



## pez

As much as I love my NCase, I still adore the Evolv ITX my GFs build is using and I do miss my Pro M quite a bit







.


----------



## doyll

While Phanteks cases look good, the biggest appeal to me is functional design features like cable management, HDD cage removal, etc.


----------



## mrpurplehawk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> While Phanteks cases look good, the biggest appeal to me is functional design features like cable management, HDD cage removal, etc.


Looks got me interested, features kept me interested.

Edit: btw, I decided to keep my Primo and sell the Case labs to a friend for a slight profit.


----------



## TheWizardMan

The luxe tg is now on sale at phanteksusa.com for those interested.


----------



## doyll

Phanteks USA web sales have
Enthoo Luxe Tempered Glass in stock.

Amazon.com have
Enthoo Evolv ATX Tempered Glass

Newegg.com has
Enthoo Pro M Tempered Glass pre-order; release date 16-12-2016
Enthoo Evolv ATX Tempered Glass

Just don't wait long to get which ever one you what or they will be sold out again.


----------



## pez

Tempered glass







. I waited so long for that panel to never see it during my ownership







.


----------



## KoolDrew

I'm really happy with my Acrylic Enthoo Pro M, but had I known the tempered version would be available literally a few weeks later I would have waited!


----------



## Testing12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Newegg.com has
> Enthoo Pro M Tempered Glass pre-order; release date 16-12-2016
> Enthoo Evolv ATX Tempered Glass


Yup, looks like the wait's (almost) finally over!
Phanteks Enthoo Pro M Tempered Glass @ Newegg


----------



## ironhide138

Anyone else crossing their fingers that at conputex phanteks announces a dual Chamber enthoo evolv? I really feel like it would look fantastic.


----------



## paskowitz

Personally, I would like to see a full tower Enthoo Evolv with full E-ATX and 420mm support. I also think an Evolv mATX and ITX Tempered Glass are due. Finally, I would scream for joy if Phanteks offered a revised top for all Evolv ATXs with metal modular vents for better top airflow.


----------



## capitaltpt

I'd be good with just an updated Enthoo Primo with support for top end radiators (width wise) and some of the updated features they've released in cases since then.


----------



## Signaturisti

Hi.

I was thinking about buying Enthoo Pro M for my first aio build, but my problem is that I would like to install NZXT Kraken X62 (which I'm getting in Jan or Feb) to the top, but will it fit between the top and the bracket? The Kraken rad is 315 x 143 x 30 mm.

My other option is P400S (tempered glass edition) just for the better looks of it, but I'm not really sure do I want to fit the Kraken in the front which seems the only option in that case. Is that bad case for liquid cooler?

*Any other case suggestions for top mounted 280mm-rad (315 x 143 x 30 mm)?*

If not Phanteks, then I'm leaning towards Define S possibly, but that doesnt have PSU shroud I would like to have... also has to be windowed, because of the Kraken


----------



## PetrasSukys

All the talk about the upcoming CES/Computex and new cases or update cases from Phanteks made me doubt my decision on buying Primo during black friday. Who am I kidding, I love the thing, it is even better in real life. Even if Phanteks release TG version of Primo or wider/longer/taller, I would not care that much. I have some interesting stuff planned for my epic rig. Although it could take a while, I am still waiting for the Zen, Kaby or even Skylake-X news. Anyways, I still have stuff to do it even without the essential hardware.

Teaser here if anyone is interested


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PetrasSukys*
> 
> All the talk about the upcoming CES/Computex and new cases or update cases from Phanteks made me doubt my decision on buying Primo during black friday. Who am I kidding, I love the thing, it is even better in real life. Even if Phanteks release TG version of Primo or wider/longer/taller, I would not care that much. I have some interesting stuff planned for my epic rig. Although it could take a while, I am still waiting for the Zen, Kaby or even Skylake-X news. Anyways, I still have stuff to do it even without the essential hardware.
> 
> Teaser here if anyone is interested


Looks awesome, but I can't help but feel that middle rad won't really add much cooling capacity. Surface area wise you are adding like ~15%..


----------



## PetrasSukys

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> Looks awesome, but I can't help but feel that middle rad won't really add much cooling capacity. Surface area wise you are adding like ~15%..


Yeah, I am quite sure about that, too. Bluntly speaking, it is just gonna be a fancy fitting/tubing. I could not come up with any other tube routing option that I would be happy about







So decided to give it a try


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PetrasSukys*
> 
> Yeah, I am quite sure about that, too. Bluntly speaking, it is just gonna be a fancy fitting/tubing. I could not come up with any other tube routing option that I would be happy about
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So decided to give it a try


Maybe go with a custom reservoir? Given the right design, that could look really good in that position. Something like Frozen Grey, but rotated 90 degrees.


----------



## PetrasSukys

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> Maybe go with a custom reservoir? Given the right design, that could look really good in that position. Something like Frozen Grey, but rotated 90 degrees.


Interesting. But for now I will stick with the plan, since I've already have the 240 and I am not planning to color my fluid. Will keep it in mind, if the 240 won't fit or won't sit







Thanks


----------



## pez

Id love to see a mITX version of the Pro M. I think that thing would be pretty cool looking. Enough so that I'd want to re-purpose my Ncase







.


----------



## Testing12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> Personally, I would like to see a full tower Enthoo Evolv with full E-ATX and 420mm support.


I'd like to see Phanteks lengthen (front to back) some of their ATX cases (i.e., Evlov ATX & Pro M) to support 272 mm wide E-ATX motherboards. The increase in width of the motherboard tray area would expand from 244mm (ATX) to 272 mm (the widest of the so called 'E-ATX' variants). This equates to a 28 mm (1.1 inch) difference in width and a total area increase of approximately 13,860 square millimeters for an Evolv ATX and approximately 13,440 square millimeters for a Pro M.


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PetrasSukys*
> 
> Interesting. But for now I will stick with the plan, since I've already have the 240 and I am not planning to color my fluid. Will keep it in mind, if the 240 won't fit or won't sit
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks










Regardless,
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Testing12*
> 
> I'd like to see Phanteks lengthen (front to back) some of their ATX cases (i.e., Evlov ATX & Pro M) to support 272 mm wide E-ATX motherboards. The increase in width of the motherboard tray area would expand from 244mm (ATX) to 272 mm (the widest of the so called 'E-ATX' variants). This equates to a 28 mm (1.1 inch) difference in width and a total area increase of approximately 13,860 square millimeters for an Evolv ATX and approximately 13,440 square millimeters for a Pro M.


It would also allow better dual 360mm radiator support. Top and front 30mm 360mm rads need just a few more mm of room (not account for rear fan removal). I think the main problem is that they would have to redo all Entho chassis and that would be a significant cost.


----------



## PetrasSukys

I am slightly puzzled. Isn't Primo supposed to be with PH-F140SP fans? At least according to Phanteks website/manual online?



These looks more like MPs, just with 3pin connectors. I do not mind, but I am just wondering did I miss any updates/forum posts or am I first one of the different batch?


----------



## PureBlackFire

^all Phanteks products come with 140 MP now


----------



## dlewbell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PureBlackFire*
> 
> ^all Phanteks products come with 140 MP now


That appears to likely be true, at least for the Enthoo line. Newer Enthoo TG cases all include MP fans, & we have an example of a Primo with MP. Were you able to verify this, & if so, how? Did you speak with Phanteks directly, or was there another source?
I'm guessing the Eclipse line will keep its unnamed OEM fan. Any insight as to whether this is the case or if it's going MP as well?


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PureBlackFire*
> 
> ^all Phanteks products come with 140 MP now


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dlewbell*
> 
> That appears to likely be true, at least for the Enthoo line. Newer Enthoo TG cases all include MP fans, & we have an example of a Primo with MP. Were you able to verify this, & if so, how? Did you speak with Phanteks directly, or was there another source?
> I'm guessing the Eclipse line will keep its unnamed OEM fan. Any insight as to whether this is the case or if it's going MP as well?


Website says PH-F140SP
http://www.phanteksusa.com/products/phanteks-enthoo-primo

By law Phanteks has to supply buyer with what they advertise .. assuming buyer want's PH-F140SP instead of PH-F140MP.









If Phanteks does not supply what is advertised it is false advertising.


----------



## PureBlackFire

it is indeed false advertising. they keep saying the cases come with 140 SP, but clearly they do not and all come with 140 MP except maybe the Evolv ATX (this is the ONLY phanteks product I see new without 140MP fans for a good while now). literally everything else from the Luxe TG to the Pro M (every version sold recently) to the pro and now the primo come with MP fans. they have already put those 140 MP on all their coolers too. even in the reviews for the new Luxe TG they have been told it's 140SP while you're looking at 140 MP's all over it. smh... Phanteks what are ya doing and why?


----------



## Testing12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> I think the main problem is that they would have to redo all Entho chassis and that would be a significant cost.


Certainly there would be added cost to alter any existing tooling used.
Maybe change the name a bit for all forward going chassis in the range with added length to something like Enthoo+ or some such to promote an 'enhanced' (and therefore 'must have') product.
(As you can tell, marketing is not my forte.














)


----------



## PetrasSukys

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PureBlackFire*
> 
> ^all Phanteks products come with 140 MP now


I don't mind of them being all MPs, I thought of replacing Primo fans to MPs anyways. I have actually bought an extra MP, just to try out and hear if I like SP or MP more. One less to buy next time


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PetrasSukys*
> 
> I don't mind of them being all MPs, I thought of replacing Primo fans to MPs anyways. I have actually bought an extra MP, just to try out and hear if I like SP or MP more. One less to buy next time


I have not use the MP enough as a case fan to say for sure, but on cooler it's round version is quite nice. I'm a huge lover of TY-14x fans and have been for many many years. I put PH-F140HP_II on TRUE Spirit 140 cooler and like it as much as TY-147A .. and TY-147A is a very quiet and well performing fan. But that does not excuse shipping cases with MP fans when specifications say SP fans. It is not a big deal to change advertising and slap an MP sticker on box over the SP.


----------



## pez

The 120MPs are working wonderfully in my Ncase.

Two of them sit under my Titan X P, and at most, run at about ~1300 RPM at full load. The sound profile is quite pleasing, honestly. They keep my GPU OC'ed to 2GHz+ at 77C or lower (without maximum GPU fan).


----------



## fromthewatt

hi guys,
was just wondering which fans would work out better :
enthoo evolv atx case
i have 2 140 corsair rad fans from a h110i gtx

would you recommend to keep stock phantec 140sp case fans for front mount or would the corsair 140 h110i gtx fans perform better ( get more cool air in case )
i dont want the fans to be too loud.so dont want to have very high rpms

tx


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fromthewatt*
> 
> hi guys,
> was just wondering which fans would work out better :
> enthoo evolv atx case
> i have 2 140 corsair rad fans from a h110i gtx
> 
> would you recommend to keep stock phantec 140sp case fans for front mount or would the corsair 140 h110i gtx fans perform better ( get more cool air in case )
> i dont want the fans to be too loud.so dont want to have very high rpms
> 
> tx


Keep the stock PH-F140SP fans. You can experiment with the Corsail fas, but if they out perform the PH-F140SP I will be in deep trouble.


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fromthewatt*
> 
> hi guys,
> was just wondering which fans would work out better :
> enthoo evolv atx case
> i have 2 140 corsair rad fans from a h110i gtx
> 
> would you recommend to keep stock phantec 140sp case fans for front mount or would the corsair 140 h110i gtx fans perform better ( get more cool air in case )
> i dont want the fans to be too loud.so dont want to have very high rpms
> 
> tx


Magic 8 ball says...


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fromthewatt*
> 
> hi guys,
> was just wondering which fans would work out better :
> enthoo evolv atx case
> i have 2 140 corsair rad fans from a h110i gtx
> 
> would you recommend to keep stock phantec 140sp case fans for front mount or would the corsair 140 h110i gtx fans perform better ( get more cool air in case )
> i dont want the fans to be too loud.so dont want to have very high rpms
> 
> tx


The included Phanteks F140SP are *significantly* better fans than those Corsairs. You would be hard pressed to find a better fan for this application than the F140SP anywhere at any price.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> Magic 8 ball says...


Yup.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> The included Phanteks F140SP are *significantly* better fans than those Corsairs. You would be hard pressed to find a better fan for this application than the F140SP anywhere at any price.


And so are the new no-name F140SP with MP fan blades.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> And so are the new no-name F140SP with MP fan blades.


Well, it would be hard to find worse fans than what Corsair includes with their CLCs.....


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Well, it would be hard to find worse fans than what Corsair includes with their CLCs.....


I really don't understand why Corsair doesn't package their ML fans with the GTX CLCs (the highest end ones). That would easily take their CLCs from bad to, ok. The double pack of the ML and SPs are basically the same on their website so the margin hit can't be that high. Maybe it is a production capacity issue.


----------



## redshoulder

With Evolv all air setups, any point in setting both top fans to intake, both front fans to intake and the rear fan as an exhaust so air is forced through case?


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *redshoulder*
> 
> With Evolv all air setups, any point in setting both top fans to intake, both front fans to intake and the rear fan as an exhaust so air is forced through case?


I don't know how many fans you have, but I would assume 2 front fans in with 2 back&top out would be best. If you want positive pressure, just get another fan controller and set the front fans to a slightly higher RPM.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> I really don't understand why Corsair doesn't package their ML fans with the GTX CLCs (the highest end ones). That would easily take their CLCs from bad to, ok. The double pack of the ML and SPs are basically the same on their website so the margin hit can't be that high. Maybe it is a production capacity issue.


It would only take them from bad to "bad but possibly not quite as loud at times". You can't overcome a bad rad and pump that are dependant on incredible amounts of airflow by simply changing the fans. You know, silk purse, sows ear.....


----------



## doyll

We all know CLCs are sub-standard product.

So all this little sailboat CLC stuff ... well ... 'beating dead horses' comes to mind.









If you want a minimum cost with at least acceptable quality look at the Alpacool AIOs instead of Asetek CLCs. Alphacool have better pump and many have copper radiator, proper hose fittings, etc. .. much quieter with as good or better performance.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> We all know CLCs are sub-standard product.
> 
> So all this little sailboat CLC stuff ... well ... 'beating dead horses' comes to mind.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you want a minimum cost with at least acceptable quality look at the Alpacool AIOs instead of Asetek CLCs. Alphacool have better pump and many have copper radiator, proper hose fittings, etc. .. much quieter with as good or better performance.


clcs have their place in that they are great for people without technical knowledge or people who dont want to or dont have time for maintenance but you cant expect the same performance thats silly


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> clcs have their place in that they are great for people without technical knowledge or people who dont want to or dont have time for maintenance but you cant expect the same performance thats silly


There are hundreds of threads about this, let's not dredge it up again here. Besides, @paskowitz already gave the definitive explanation:


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> clcs have their place in that they are great for people without technical knowledge or people who dont want to or dont have time for maintenance but you cant expect the same performance thats silly


Only good place for them is in recycling center bins.








Asetek OEM CLCs are just space fillers, not at all a quality product .. in fact they are sup-standard to people who know what they are looking at.

Step up a little to Alphacool OEM AIOs and get the ones with copper radiator, better pump then Asetek OEM, a fill port, proper fittings and hose. The best one is be quiet! Silent :Loop, but others like Fractal Design Kelvin and a couple others are okay too.

Or step up a little farther to Swiftech and EKWB AIOs. Swiftech is the best I know of.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> There are hundreds of threads about this, let's not dredge it up again here. Besides, @paskowitz already gave the definitive explanation:


Had a good laugh when I saw @paskowitz's post.


----------



## dailo01

I have the pro m acrylic and I really want the tempered glass. Is it worth it to have it cut on my own or buy it the side panel from phanteks? I think it's 40 to buy from phanteks


----------



## Testing12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Step up a little to Alphacool OEM AIOs and get the ones with copper radiator, better pump then Asetek OEM, a fill port, proper fittings and hose. The best one is be quiet! Silent :Loop, but others like Fractal Design Kelvin and a couple others are okay too.


What do you make of this review?






He doesn't really show any numbers to back up his findings, but says the following beginning at ~ 6:17:

"In terms of performance, uh&#8230; truth is it did OK. Umm, basically, I would say the Silent Loop Base, uh, Silent Loop 240&#8230; was essentially the same as a Corsair H100i V2. There was next to nothing to choose between."


----------



## Testing12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dailo01*
> 
> I have the pro m acrylic and I really want the tempered glass. Is it worth it to have it cut on my own or buy it the side panel from phanteks? I think it's 40 to buy from phanteks


I'm curious where you found the tempered glass available from Phanteks.

Thanks...


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Testing12*
> 
> What do you make of this review?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> He doesn't really show any numbers to back up his findings, but says the following beginning at ~ 6:17:
> 
> "In terms of performance, uh&#8230; truth is it did OK. Umm, basically, I would say the Silent Loop Base, uh, Silent Loop 240&#8230; was essentially the same as a Corsair H100i V2. There was next to nothing to choose between."


Just another talking head. I have used both H100i and Silent Loop 280. The difference in quality and sound levels is night and day. Obviously 280 will cool better than H100i .. and true, the 240 does not cool much different than H100i. but the pump and fan noise is worlds different. H100i is noisy from lowest speed on up. Silent Loop is almost dead silent at idle and not overly loud at full speed.


----------



## KoolDrew

What is everyone's favorite RGB lighting kit? Thinking of picking this one up: DeepCool RGB350 Color LED Strips


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KoolDrew*
> 
> What is everyone's favorite RGB lighting kit? Thinking of picking this one up: DeepCool RGB350 Color LED Strips


I like my NZXT HUE+. If you take advantage of Amazon Warehouse, you can get it at a reduced price (I paid $45). I like the more granular control HUE+ offers vs everything being 1 or 2 colors. Some of the effects are fun. Controlling through software vs a remote is also a plus.

Darkside Connect is highly regarded as is CableMod Wide Beam... but both are pretty damn expensive. Ideally you would have a motherboard with an RGB header, but most people don't have that as they are new.

Don't know much about DeepCool.


----------



## TripleNipple

*Enthoo Primo - Max Radiator thickness* for front and front side dual 120?

Im trying to plan out a build with this case and want to set up 2 dual 120mm rads in the front and front side like in the image below:



But im not sure how thick i can go without having the rads interfere with each other? is 45mm too much?


----------



## _Killswitch_

Can any Enthoo Pro M owner's give me some info, this is case in Question http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811854037

My current pc will be my old pc soon as my new one is finish anyways it's in a 900D case looking to move to smaller case as a spare 2nd pc. I decided i like the one I linked. Just curious on how easy or hard it is too work in, issues with air cooling since i'll probably be air cooling it, and any thing else useful, thanks


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *_Killswitch_*
> 
> Can any Enthoo Pro M owner's give me some info, this is case in Question http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811854037
> 
> My current pc will be my old pc soon as my new one is finish anyways it's in a 900D case looking to move to smaller case as a spare 2nd pc. I decided i like the one I linked. Just curious on how easy or hard it is too work in, issues with air cooling since i'll probably be air cooling it, and any thing else useful, thanks


It's well designed, constructed and very easy to work in. Airflow is good, but you should really add a second F140SP as intake.


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TripleNipple*
> 
> *Enthoo Primo - Max Radiator thickness* for front and front side dual 120?
> 
> Im trying to plan out a build with this case and want to set up 2 dual 120mm rads in the front and front side like in the image below:
> 
> 
> 
> But im not sure how thick i can go without having the rads interfere with each other? is 45mm too much?


I don't have an answer to your question... but I can't help but feel that having those 2x240mm spots as intake fans (bottom rad becomes 480) would be equally or more effective (certainly cleaner and cheaper) than having the two additional 240 rads. You may be loosing some cubic cm of rad, but you are gaining a lower case air temp which should offset that. I'm not an expert and obvious if you just want the rads there because RADS! that is totally valid. Nice cad work BTW.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> I don't have an answer to your question... but I can't help but feel that having those 2x240mm spots as intake fans (bottom rad becomes 480) would be equally or more effective (certainly cleaner and cheaper) than having the two additional 240 rads. You may be loosing some cubic cm of rad, but you are gaining a lower case air temp which should offset that. I'm not an expert and obvious if you just want the rads there because RADS! that is totally valid. Nice cad work BTW.


i have a 420 x 45 up top a 480 x 45 in the bottom and a 240 x 30 in the side mount if you use push and pull on the bottom i feel like you would be limited to 30 45 at the most... with that 240 you might be able to use a 60 but it would be really toght...with hd trays you wont be using anything but a 30 and only in push or pull


----------



## boredgunner

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KoolDrew*
> 
> What is everyone's favorite RGB lighting kit? Thinking of picking this one up: DeepCool RGB350 Color LED Strips


Hue+ all day every day. Magnetic (perfect for Phanteks cases with their steel interiors), four strips that you can daisy chain, and so many features with their CAM software. Check it out if you don't know about it.

https://www.camwebapp.com/

Looks so good in my Evolv ATX TG, along with my Z170 Designare which is also RGB. Right now I have the Z170 set to blue and Hue+ set to covering marquee alternating between blue and very light blue (at the second slowest setting).


----------



## dailo01

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Testing12*
> 
> I'm curious where you found the tempered glass available from Phanteks.
> 
> Thanks...


Newegg and Amazon show they will have the tempered glass in stock by mid December (usa)


----------



## KaptainK

Hi Phanteks lovers and owners








I just finished watercooling my Evolv mATX. I haven't seen so much on internet so, here is mine :


----------



## KaffieneKing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaptainK*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Hi Phanteks lovers and owners
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I just finished watercooling my Evolv mATX. I haven't seen so much on internet so, here is mine :


Nice, actually a very hard case to watercool in with a full length GPU so well done!

'Best' solution I ever found was cramming the res between the 2 corners of the rads!


----------



## Awesomeguy10578

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaptainK*
> 
> Hi Phanteks lovers and owners
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I just finished watercooling my Evolv mATX. I haven't seen so much on internet so, here is mine :


Definitely cleaner than mine


----------



## KaptainK

Thank you.
1080 ek water block and ek x3 res just fit with millimetre accuracy.


----------



## AKBraves

Any tips for how to mount an HDD if I remove the 5.25 and HDD drive cages in an Enthoo Luxe? I really want to get rid of the giant face plate there but not sure what to do with my HDD (currently installed in a 5.25 to 3.5 mount).


----------



## kush621

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AKBraves*
> 
> Any tips for how to mount an HDD if I remove the 5.25 and HDD drive cages in an Enthoo Luxe? I really want to get rid of the giant face plate there but not sure what to do with my HDD (currently installed in a 5.25 to 3.5 mount).


you could get one of these https://www.amazon.com/Mediasonic-ProBox-HF2-SU3S2-SATA-Enclosure/dp/B003X26VV4


----------



## AKBraves

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kush621*
> 
> you could get one of these https://www.amazon.com/Mediasonic-ProBox-HF2-SU3S2-SATA-Enclosure/dp/B003X26VV4


While I appreciate the thought, that's a bit overkill. If I was going to spend that amount I'd just buy a new case altogether.


----------



## owcraftsman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AKBraves*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *kush621*
> 
> you could get one of these https://www.amazon.com/Mediasonic-ProBox-HF2-SU3S2-SATA-Enclosure/dp/B003X26VV4
> 
> 
> 
> While I appreciate the thought, that's a bit overkill. If I was going to spend that amount I'd just buy a new case altogether.
Click to expand...

Maybe you'll appreciate this a bit more I've used these in a few rigs including a Luxe

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DN7ABB0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


----------



## AKBraves

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *owcraftsman*
> 
> Maybe you'll appreciate this a bit more I've used these in a few rigs including a Luxe
> https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DN7ABB0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


That's certainly more on line with what I was thinking. Do these do a decent job taking out vibrations? Enough so that I could get away with just setting the drive on the floor of the case? Thanks for the link.


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AKBraves*
> 
> That's certainly more on line with what I was thinking. Do these do a decent job taking out vibrations? Enough so that I could get away with just setting the drive on the floor of the case? Thanks for the link.


I have my HDDs (WD Black and HGST NAS... loud drivers) on the floor of my Evolv. I put sponge neoprene on the floor between the drives (which are in the plastic hot swap trays). Here is a link. With that stuff, there are no vibrations (humming or otherwise). I can hear the drive click, but there is nothing you can do about that. I also used the excess to add sound deadening to rest of my case (top/font panel, pump area, etc) to great effect.


----------



## TripleNipple

Enthoo Primo owners,

Where do the front panel fans go?





Is that a fan? Do fans go inside what is looks like some sort of casing?

Or do the fans go over that indentation like this? (photoshopped fan)


----------



## TripleNipple

I ask because i know the front panel is thick, so i dont know if those are fans or just an indentation to allow for the thick front panel


----------



## TeslaHUN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TripleNipple*
> 
> Enthoo Primo owners,
> 
> Where do the front panel fans go?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Is that a fan? Do fans go inside what is looks like some sort of casing?
> 
> Or do the fans go over that indentation like this? (photoshopped fan)


After u pop out the front cover ,u can screw the fans on the case.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AKBraves*
> 
> Any tips for how to mount an HDD if I remove the 5.25 and HDD drive cages in an Enthoo Luxe? I really want to get rid of the giant face plate there but not sure what to do with my HDD (currently installed in a 5.25 to 3.5 mount).


Have you considered putting it on bottom of case or behind motherboard tray?


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TripleNipple*
> 
> Enthoo Primo owners,
> 
> Where do the front panel fans go?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Is that a fan? Do fans go inside what is looks like some sort of casing?
> 
> Or do the fans go over that indentation like this? (photoshopped fan)


The fans fit on front of mount, but mount is relieved into case.
Maybe this image will help


Here is a very good video review by Bill Owen (owner of MNPCTech & key member on TheModZoo)
At about 5:50 front filter off and at about 7:00 in he takes the front off. Another look at about 30:38 after Jesse removes inner side panel.


----------



## LiamG6

I have an Enthoo Evolv ATX TG, I have OC'd GTX970's in SLI, a 4670k at 5ghz 1.315v which is cooled by a 220w Thermoelectric Cooler (TEC) with a custom water block by foxrena, a motherboard mosfet block and an aquaero 5 block. All this was being cooled by a 360mm HWL Alpha Extreme III in the front with 3k 120mm vardars in push as intake, a 280mm ST30 in the top with 2k 140mm vardars in push as exhaust, and a 120mm EK Coolstream XT in the rear with a 3k 120mm vardar in push as exhaust.

With all the case panels on and after heavy gaming or stress testing my water temps were getting very hot, up to an 11*c delta above ambient temps at times and my fans were running at full speed, very noisy, I wasn't happy with this, as are a lot of Evolv ATX TG owners, I thought about playing around with the configuration of rads, couldn't come up with a better plan of fans as exhaust/intake, couldn't add more rads. Thought about cutting up the front and top of the case for more air flow, but tested this by taking the front and top off, it dropped my temps by a couple of degrees, but really that wasn't worth cutting up such a nice case for.

So I thought about adding an external rad just because I have such a high heat load and a case with bad airflow. I found a used Alphacool 420 Monsta rad on ebay for AUD$20.50, I snapped it up as quick as I could and I haven't looked back. My temps have dropped considerably, maxes out at 6*c delta above ambient temp after hours of gaming or stress testing. I used the 140mm PH-F140SP fans that came with the case on the Monsta rad for now, the Monsta is only 10fpi and these work quite well for now, and also my internal case fans now run at lower speeds so it is much quieter. I will upgrade to 2k 140mm vardars on the Monsta rad soon.

Anyways, I was thinking of a convenient way to incorporate this rad into my build without ruining the aesthetics of the Evolv, so I decided on a pedestal (rather than just sitting on my desk as it is now). In order for it to blend in I decided to try to match the shape and angle of the case, it's almost like an extension of the aluminium case feet now and uses 4 pieces of 80x3mm aluminium flat bar bent to shape and holding the Monsta rad in place below the case. When I put the 360mm Alpha Extreme rad in the front of the case, I put the inlet and outlet at the bottom, and drilled drain ports through the bottom of the case, I'm now using these drain ports to get my tubing out of the case and into the Monsta rad, this actually means my front 360mm rad and the Monsta rad are running in parallel now, the Monsta is ever so slightly less restrictive so it probably gets about 60% of the flow, this is enough for now to almost halve my load coolant delta with 1200rpm fans, so it will be even better with 2k vardars. Also, my Alpha Extreme III is very restrictive with 26fpi, and even with 3k vardars not much air gets through the rad and it is my only intake into the case, I'm thinking of removing the 360 rad and just having 3 x 3k rpm 120mm vardars to intake cool air into the case which will help the 120 and 280mm rads, and also the higher flow through the monsta rad should improve it's performance too, I will test both configurations to see which is better. Anyways, here is a look at my design, I've purchased all materials and tools to build this pedestal and should be done in the next two weeks to complete my build in this amazing albeit hot case.



Also a look at my case with some bad phone photo's, still a few details to take care of in the case, sleeving, painting etc, then I'll get some better photos.





If anyone is interested in the pedestal I'm happy to share my design or even make you a set so you can mount an external radiator. I'd even be happy if a company could make this as an accessory for the case that we could just buy. I'll report back when it's finished.


----------



## Bill Owen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> The fans fit on front of mount, but mount is relieved into case.
> Maybe this image will help
> 
> 
> Here is a very good video review by Bill Evans (owner of MNPCTech & key member on TheModZoo)
> At about 5:50 front filter off and at about 7:00 in he takes the front off. Another look at about 30:38 after Jesse removes inner side panel.


Bill Owen, not Evans.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bill Owen*
> 
> Bill Owen, not Evans.


Sorry about that.








I know better too.








Wll you ever forgive me?
Guess I need to make sure I have a full cup of coffee before I start posting.


----------



## AKBraves

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Have you considered putting it on bottom of case or behind motherboard tray?


Yeah on the bottom was my first thought, just wasn't sure how noisy that would be or if there was an "elegant" way to do it other than just lay it down.


----------



## AyyMD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pustekuchen*
> 
> My new PHANTEKS ITX Setup <3
> 
> 
> Intel Core i5 6600K @ 4.7GHz
> be quiet! Dark Rock Pro 3
> Asus Z170I PRO GAMING
> 32GB Corsair Vengeance LPX
> ASUS ROG Strix GeForce GTX 1070 OC
> PHANTEKS Enthoo Evolv ITX
> be quiet! Straight Power 10 500W CM


Sex Machine.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AKBraves*
> 
> Yeah on the bottom was my first thought, just wasn't sure how noisy that would be or if there was an "elegant" way to do it other than just lay it down.


Some self sticking dense foam pads will isolate any vibrations. Vercro tape works too .. but don't expect the velcro to release .. the self-stick tape comes loose first.







.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AyyMD*
> 
> Sex Machine.


No! It's a
IsTeX Machine


----------



## AyyMD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Some self sticking dense foam pads will isolate any vibrations. Vercro tape works too .. but don't expect the velcro to release .. the self-stick tape comes loose first.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> No! It's a
> IsTeX Machine


Let's make a deal, it's a ITSeX Machine.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AyyMD*
> 
> Let's make a deal, it's a ITSeX Machine.


Deal!


----------



## BinaryBummer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AyyMD*
> 
> Sex Machine.


I really wonder if hte mobo don't get warped from the weight of those huge air coolers.. I mean you could make a single bracket that could support it at the top.

derp quoted the wrong post.. THe pics that is what I meant


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BinaryBummer*
> 
> I really wonder if hte mobo don't get warped from the weight of those huge air coolers.. I mean you could make a single bracket that could support it at the top.
> 
> derp quoted the wrong post.. THe pics that is what I meant


If you don't use 3rd tier MBs with paper PCBs prior to 2007, this is a total non-factor......


----------



## BinaryBummer

Yes i read many newer motherboards have that extra layer.


----------



## TripleNipple

Regular sized fans fit right? They dont need to be slim?


----------



## owcraftsman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AKBraves*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *owcraftsman*
> 
> Maybe you'll appreciate this a bit more I've used these in a few rigs including a Luxe
> https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DN7ABB0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
> 
> 
> 
> That's certainly more on line with what I was thinking. Do these do a decent job taking out vibrations? Enough so that I could get away with just setting the drive on the floor of the case? Thanks for the link.
Click to expand...

Zero issue with vibration noise silicone is the best for that you literally could put it anywhere it completely covers it and protects it from all directions


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BinaryBummer*
> 
> Yes i read many newer motherboards have that extra layer.


If by 'newer motherboards you mean any main stream manufacturer in the last 10 years .. in other words if you are using a motherboard like 99.99% of users the weight of air coolers is not an issue. Proof is when was the last time you say a motherboard damaged by a big cooler?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TripleNipple*
> 
> Regular sized fans fit right? They dont need to be slim?


If you are referring to Enthoo Primo front fans, they are normal 25-26mm thick fans.


----------



## DamiNQN

I just finish my rig:


----------



## Sazexa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DamiNQN*
> 
> I just finish my rig:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ]


Is that the R5E10? What method did you use to fit yours into the Evolv? I had one in my Evolv, before I got rid of it. Also, double check your cars are both running in X16 if your CPU supports it, because I'm pretty sure the manual says to configure them like this:


----------



## geriatricpollywog

Greetings, Phanteks owners and lovahs,

On an Enthoo Evolv ATX, will a 280mm top mount radiator clear the ram?


----------



## Sazexa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0451*
> 
> Greetings, Phanteks owners and lovahs,
> 
> On an Enthoo Evolv ATX, will a 280mm top mount radiator clear the ram?


Depends on your RAM choice. With a 120/240/360, it clears Dominator Platinums, but not by a lot.



As you can see, tight fit with 120mm rads/fans


----------



## geriatricpollywog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sazexa*
> 
> Depends on your RAM choice. With a 120/240/360, it clears Dominator Platinums, but not by a lot.
> 
> 
> 
> As you can see, tight fit with 120mm rads/fans


Radiator is 45mm thick and fans are standard 25mm.

I have not purchased memory or mobo yet, but I want 3200mhz ram or faster. I don't care if the ram has little ships on it.


----------



## boredgunner

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sazexa*
> 
> Depends on your RAM choice. With a 120/240/360, it clears Dominator Platinums, but not by a lot.
> 
> 
> 
> As you can see, tight fit with 120mm rads/fans


That is extremely sexy.


----------



## Sazexa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0451*
> 
> Radiator is 45mm thick and fans are standard 25mm.
> 
> I have not purchased memory or mobo yet, but I want 3200mhz ram or faster. I don't care if the ram has little ships on it.


The rad and fans in my picture were 38 and 25mm. So, you'd likely need a low profile kit and/or to remove heatspreaders.


----------



## Sazexa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *boredgunner*
> 
> That is extremely sexy.


Thank you! I've since taken the build out of the case and am using it on a test bench. Waiting for the release of the Enthoo Elite, and I'll do a dual system with my girlfriend's ITX build in it. I also got the R5E10 monoblock 8)


----------



## redshoulder

Can I fit an prolimatech mk-26 gpu cooler into matx evolv? it might fit as it needs for slots but then the psu shroud might be an issue.


----------



## Alex132

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0451*
> 
> Greetings, Phanteks owners and lovahs,
> 
> On an Enthoo Evolv ATX, will a 280mm top mount radiator clear the ram?


I actually have a rather similar question - but does anyone have pictures of a 280mm rad/AIO fitting on the front intake or even top exhaust?


----------



## SpecFree

My Evolv ATX is having trouble moving the hot air away from the GPU.

I have seen multiple posts about the stock fans, and i know its getting old







but is there anyone that can recommend something over the stock fans
that could move some more air with the closed front.

I have removed the PCI covers.


----------



## boredgunner

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpecFree*
> 
> My Evolv ATX is having trouble moving the hot air away from the GPU.
> 
> I have seen multiple posts about the stock fans, and i know its getting old
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> but is there anyone that can recommend something over the stock fans
> that could move some more air with the closed front.
> 
> I have removed the PCI covers.


Maybe Silverstone AP141s in the front. Or triple 120mm fans, like Be Quiets which are very quiet and move a lot of air.


----------



## SpecFree

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *boredgunner*
> 
> Maybe Silverstone AP141s in the front. Or triple 120mm fans, like Be Quiets which are very quiet and move a lot of air.


I actually have 3 silentwings 2 that i tried out to start with - and they actually had a harder time moving the air.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpecFree*
> 
> My Evolv ATX is having trouble moving the hot air away from the GPU.
> 
> I have seen multiple posts about the stock fans, and i know its getting old
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> but is there anyone that can recommend something over the stock fans
> that could move some more air with the closed front.
> 
> I have removed the PCI covers.


What is your system and specs? Fan speeds at what temps, etc.?


----------



## jearly410

My build at the moment. As you can see, the rad for my fury x is up top in the front with the open areas towards the back close off with cardboard. In front I have 280mm x61 rad. Notice the gap between the top and bottom of rads in the front? I have a fan blowing in and then the fury x rad fan pulls it up.

Is there a more efficient way to set this up (without putting the fury x rad in the rear exhaust of the case) as the fury x can get upper 60s easily which I want to be back near 55.

I have a phanteks 120mp pushing into the fury x rad and push pull in front for 280mm x61 with mp and stock kraken fans. The fans pushing into front rad are moved up several inches to get air to the fury x rad.

Sorry if this is a bit confusing. Thanks!


----------



## SpecFree

I7 6700k stock - Cooled by Cryorig C1 Ultimate
MSI GTX 1070 stock - Air cooled

i got the stock setup of 2 intake 140mm fans and 1 exhaust.

with the 2 intakes running at 100% with an ambient room temp of 26 i get:

70-71c on the GPU under full load.
60-62c on the CPU under full load.


----------



## TripleNipple

Enthoo primo Owners:

Whats the max width for a radiator in push pull at the top?

Mobo: Asus Rampage V Edition 10

dimensions: 12" x 10.7"


----------



## mrpurplehawk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TripleNipple*
> 
> Enthoo primo Owners:
> 
> Whats the max width for a radiator in push pull at the top?
> 
> Mobo: Asus Rampage V Edition 10
> 
> dimensions: 12" x 10.7"


45mm


----------



## LiamG6

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0451*
> 
> Greetings, Phanteks owners and lovahs,
> 
> On an Enthoo Evolv ATX, will a 280mm top mount radiator clear the ram?


the case spec sheet says 48mm between motherboard and 140mm fan/rad. so maybe 35mm tall ram maximum with 280 rad in the top.

or you can do as I did, don't use the removable rad/fan tray, just take it out, then attach the radiator to the top of the case. I used two strips of aluminium on top of the steel frame, with 8 holes drilled for 140mm fan spacing, then I pinched the frame between the aluminium strips and bolted it to the rads, basically the rad is hanging from the aluminium strips and when you tighten the bolts it pinches the frame and stays in place. With a 30mm thick 280mm ST30 rad and 140mm EK Vardars my fans are above my ram slots by about 5-10mm so I can use any height ram I want, I'm using Gskill trident X without issues.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpecFree*
> 
> I7 6700k stock - Cooled by Cryorig C1 Ultimate
> MSI GTX 1070 stock - Air cooled
> 
> i got the stock setup of 2 intake 140mm fans and 1 exhaust.
> 
> with the 2 intakes running at 100% with an ambient room temp of 26 i get:
> 
> 70-71c on the GPU under full load.
> 60-62c on the CPU under full load.


Those are good temps.
No reason to change anything unless fans are making too much noise.
Complete specs is case, fans, fan speed at different temps. I setup all systems so case fan speed is controlled by CPU & GPU temp, same as their own cooler fans are. This means as they build heat and their fans speed up usinng more airflow and therefore needing more airflow to cool the case fans change speed and increase their airflow to match .. case fans idle slow and quiet when component fans idle.


----------



## scracy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LiamG6*
> 
> the case spec sheet says 48mm between motherboard and 140mm fan/rad. so maybe 35mm tall ram maximum with 280 rad in the top.
> 
> or you can do as I did, don't use the removable rad/fan tray, just take it out, then attach the radiator to the top of the case. I used two strips of aluminium on top of the steel frame, with 8 holes drilled for 140mm fan spacing, then I pinched the frame between the aluminium strips and bolted it to the rads, basically the rad is hanging from the aluminium strips and when you tighten the bolts it pinches the frame and stays in place. With a 30mm thick 280mm ST30 rad and 140mm EK Vardars my fans are above my ram slots by about 5-10mm so I can use any height ram I want, I'm using Gskill trident X without issues.


How much room did you gain by doing this? I have been thinking of replacing my EK PE360 with an XE360 but need an extra 20mm


----------



## SpecFree

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Those are good temps.
> No reason to change anything unless fans are making too much noise.
> Complete specs is case, fans, fan speed at different temps. I setup all systems so case fan speed is controlled by CPU & GPU temp, same as their own cooler fans are. This means as they build heat and their fans speed up usinng more airflow and therefore needing more airflow to cool the case fans change speed and increase their airflow to match .. case fans idle slow and quiet when component fans idle.


Thanks doyll!

My problem is currently that The stock fans wont ramp Down to less then 1000rpm with The includes hub - and takes forever to ramp back Up.

But if you were to recommend a different fan - is there even One that would improve anything


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpecFree*
> 
> Thanks doyll!
> 
> My problem is currently that The stock fans wont ramp Down to less then 1000rpm with The includes hub - and takes forever to ramp back Up.
> 
> But if you were to recommend a different fan - is there even One that would improve anything


That isn't a problem with the fans, so changing them won't help. That is a problem with your fan curve. What are you using to control the hub? I assume the MB, but what specific MB and which header are you using?

BTW - you will be very hard pressed to find any fan that can outperform the F140SP that you have without increasing noise dramatically in this application.


----------



## SpecFree

I have a msi m5 z170 and im using a cpu header as i believe The other headers arent pwm.

I have used it with another pwm hub before


----------



## doyll

It's not the fans that are the problem. It is either your motherboard not idling at a low enough PWM setting or hub still supplying too much voltage to fans. What motherboard do you hae
This post in "Ways to Better Cooling" has technical details for hub.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpecFree*
> 
> I have a msi m5 z170 and im using a cpu header as i believe The other headers arent pwm.
> 
> I have used it with another pwm hub before


I haven't used that board, but I can say that the fan control on the Z97 MPower I had wasn't exactly stellar. What you really need to be looking for is information on how to correctly set fan curves on that board, not replacing the fans.


----------



## LiamG6

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *scracy*
> 
> How much room did you gain by doing this? I have been thinking of replacing my EK PE360 with an XE360 but need an extra 20mm


I believe I gained 19mm of extra clearance. ie if you measure from the top of the removable bracket to the bottom edge of the frame flanges it should be about 19mm. If you cut the frame flanges off with a dremel it's more like 25-26mm, some people do this to install fans above the bracket as it gives enough room for a 25mm fan above the bracket, but if you remove it all together like I did it lifts the rad up 19mm. I think you can get the 20mm you need with a bit of effort. Mind you moving from the PE to the XE won't do much because this case is just choked up, I added a 420 monsta rad externally and that fixed all my temperature issues. The case has terrible intake/exhaust and I have a 360, 280 and 120 internal and wasn;t enough, can't get enough cool air in and can't get enough hot air out, the external 420 monsta halved my coolant delta. I'll share details of that in a week or two when I finish my pedestal to put the monsta rad in.


----------



## SpecFree

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> It's not the fans that are the problem. It is either your motherboard not idling at a low enough PWM setting or hub still supplying too much voltage to fans. What motherboard do you hae
> This post in "Ways to Better Cooling" has technical details for hub.


Yeah i dno - i moved one of the fans from header 6 to header 2 and atleast now it will ramp up and down but only in the 1000rpm - 1200rpm range without much delay.


----------



## SpecFree

Also the SP stock fans seem to have a MP fan design?


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpecFree*
> 
> Also the SP stock fans seem to have a MP fan design?


Phanteks started using the MP as case fans a few months ago....and apparently never updated the case specs on lit or web sites.


----------



## SpecFree

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Phanteks started using the MP as case fans a few months ago....and apparently never updated the case specs on lit or web sites.


hmm, i wonder if i can get em to run at the MP's rated speed then


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpecFree*
> 
> I have a msi m5 z170 and im using a cpu header as i believe The other headers arent pwm.
> 
> I have used it with another pwm hub before


Here is a chart of PH-F140SP fan showing volt to rpm.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpecFree*
> 
> Also the SP stock fans seem to have a MP fan design?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Phanteks started using the MP as case fans a few months ago....and apparently never updated the case specs on lit or web sites.


Phanteks changed the impeller on their case fans to impellers like MPs use, but they are still variable voltage 3-wire/pin fans. I'm surprised they did this without having a new model number and press release notifiying people of the change in running production.

While I have not had a case setup with these new 'no model' fans, I have used a few PH-140HP_II cooler fans and a few PH-F140MP and find them about the same, but some people find them different and prefer the PH-F140HP.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpecFree*
> 
> hmm, i wonder if i can get em to run at the MP's rated speed then


I would think they will run more like the PH-F140SP then MP.


----------



## SpecFree

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Here is a chart of PH-F140SP fan showing volt to rpm.
> 
> 
> Phanteks changed the impeller on their case fans to impellers like MPs use, but they are still variable voltage 3-wire/pin fans. I'm surprised they did this without having a new model number and press release notifiying people of the change in running production.
> 
> While I have not had a case setup with these new 'no model' fans, I have used a few PH-140HP_II cooler fans and a few PH-F140MP and find them about the same, but some people find them different and prefer the PH-F140HP.
> I would think they will run more like the PH-F140SP then MP.


So the fans are doing more like 50cfm each with the slower speeds.


----------



## DamiNQN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alex132*
> 
> I actually have a rather similar question - but does anyone have pictures of a 280mm rad/AIO fitting on the front intake or even top exhaust?


I have 2 280mm rad, top and front.
The front fits without a problem but de top need some hard mod in the chasis


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpecFree*
> 
> So the fans are doing more like 50cfm each with the slower speeds.


Even less with grills and filter resistance. But that is not an issue if the change speed as needed.

Just to check things:

You have PWM cable plugged into hub and CPU fan header
You have Sata 12v power cable plugged from hub to PSU Sata
You have one of the fans plugging into header #1 on hub


----------



## Alex132

Yes! That is what I have been looking for for ages now! Someone who's hard-modded the top to fit fans up there!









Apologies if you have posted how you did it before, but do you have any pictures of the process of doing it/etc.?


----------



## DamiNQN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alex132*
> 
> Yes! That is what I have been looking for for ages now! Someone who's hard-modded the top to fit fans up there!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Apologies if you have posted how you did it before, but do you have any pictures of the process of doing it/etc.?


It's all in this forum, styep by step:

https://foro.elchapuzasinformatico.com/refrigeracion-liquida/62137-mi-primer-custom-rl.html


----------



## SpecFree

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Even less with grills and filter resistance. But that is not an issue if the change speed as needed.
> 
> Just to check things:
> 
> You have PWM cable plugged into hub and CPU fan header
> You have Sata 12v power cable plugged from hub to PSU Sata
> You have one of the fans plugging into header #1 on hub


I have the PWM cable from the hub plugged into the CPU 2 header on the mobo.
I have tried both with and without the 12v sata cable - and im getting the same result, pwm control from 1000-1200rpm.
I have them plugged in from 1-3 on the fan hub.


----------



## Alex132

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DamiNQN*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Alex132*
> 
> Yes! That is what I have been looking for for ages now! Someone who's hard-modded the top to fit fans up there!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Apologies if you have posted how you did it before, but do you have any pictures of the process of doing it/etc.?
> 
> 
> 
> It's all in this forum, styep by step:
> 
> https://foro.elchapuzasinformatico.com/refrigeracion-liquida/62137-mi-primer-custom-rl.html
Click to expand...

All you had to do was remove the grill / supports above and you could fit the fans in?


----------



## DamiNQN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alex132*
> 
> All you had to do was remove the grill / supports above and you could fit the fans in?


Yes, whit the long screws who comes whit the rad


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpecFree*
> 
> I have the PWM cable from the hub plugged into the CPU 2 header on the mobo.
> I have tried both with and without the 12v sata cable - and im getting the same result, pwm control from 1000-1200rpm.
> I have them plugged in from 1-3 on the fan hub.


Have you loaded MSI Command Center and setup a temp to rpm fan curve?
Or clicked manual and turned the speed control up and down? (might need to give it a minute to change speed)


----------



## SpecFree

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Have you loaded MSI Command Center and setup a temp to rpm fan curve?
> Or clicked manual and turned the speed control up and down? (might need to give it a minute to change speed)


i have indeed, the results are the same on manuel and temp to rpm fan curve - very limited control


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpecFree*
> 
> i have indeed, the results are the same on manuel and temp to rpm fan curve - very limited control
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I am assuming you ran the Fan Tuning?


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpecFree*
> 
> i have indeed, the results are the same on manuel and temp to rpm fan curve - very limited control


Do you have any other fans you could plug into the hub? I'm wondering if putting more load on the hub (fans using more amps / watts) will increase the speed range. I'm think these fans may not be using enough power .. like in the chart I posted earlier where 2x fans is only 2.1a with voltage range is 7.7v - 12v, but with morre fans using 0.5-1.4a the voltage range is 5v -12v.

I don't know if the MSI tuning needs to be done, but might be worth a try too.


----------



## SpecFree

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Do you have any other fans you could plug into the hub? I'm wondering if putting more load on the hub (fans using more amps / watts) will increase the speed range. I'm think these fans may not be using enough power .. like in the chart I posted earlier where 2x fans is only 2.1a with voltage range is 7.7v - 12v, but with morre fans using 0.5-1.4a the voltage range is 5v -12v.
> 
> I don't know if the MSI tuning needs to be done, but might be worth a try too.


i added another fan to the hub and indeed it did something.

i now get pwm control from 920ish to 1200


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpecFree*
> 
> i added another fan to the hub and indeed it did something.
> 
> i now get pwm control from 920ish to 1200


Do you have another fan you can add?

Edit: What is your PWM % range?
For example, in Command Center I have 20-100% for CPU fan and 50-100% for system fan headers..


----------



## SpecFree

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Do you have another fan you can add?


i added another and it only went down 20 rpm... sadly stacking fans on top of the case doesnt do much for the noise level


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpecFree*
> 
> i added another and it only went down 20 rpm... sadly stacking fans on top of the case doesnt do much for the noise level


Do you have any more you can add?
I edited the post you answered. Don't know if you saw the edit.


----------



## SpecFree

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Do you have any more you can add?
> I edited the post you answered. Don't know if you saw the edit.


i sadly do not, i tried adding the old pwm controller i had from my old build and that functions with the 4 pin fans i have and gives me the correct control on the header.

to answer your edit: i have a 25% to 100% control on CPU 1 and 2


----------



## doyll

I suspect 1 more fan would do it. Then we could figure out the wattage of the two and add a dummy load on a fan lead to plug into one of the fan headers instead of the fans.


----------



## SpecFree

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> I suspect 1 more fan would do it. Then we could figure out the wattage of the two and add a dummy load on a fan lead to plug into one of the fan headers instead of the fans.


ill try and find some fans i guess.

but are you sure i shouldnt get some faster fans for when it gets warmer, and i wouldnt mind having some headroom for overclocking.
when im working i want it to be quiet ofc - therefore i was planning on using the pwm control which i have done in the past with great succes.

but because of the hub its now very audible.


----------



## AKBraves

Posting up some pics of my slightly modded Luxe. I love the case.


----------



## AKBraves

Dup post


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpecFree*
> 
> ill try and find some fans i guess.
> 
> but are you sure i shouldnt get some faster fans for when it gets warmer, and i wouldnt mind having some headroom for overclocking.
> when im working i want it to be quiet ofc - therefore i was planning on using the pwm control which i have done in the past with great succes.
> 
> but because of the hub its now very audible.


What are your temps now? Higher speed fans means more noise too.


----------



## SpecFree

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> What are your temps now? Higher speed fans means more noise too.


With an ambient of about 25c im touching 71 on The gpu - but thats with My overclock off as i was nearing 80 with My old overclock.

Cpu is New and i havent been trying to oc that yet So thats only at about 60-62c.

The noise wont be a problem aslong as i can pwm control Them to reasonable levels.


----------



## Andrew LB

I just spent the last 7 hours draining my loop, installing a bunch of rotary fittings, cleaning up wiring, and re-routed all tubing so they'd be shorter due to the added 45' and 90' rotary fittings. I also swapped out the Alphacool DDC310 pump (200lph) for a Laing DDC-1T PWM pump (420lph) because flow seemed to take a real hit when i added the 280mm rad up front in my Enthoo Pro M. So now i've got a XSPC ex360 up top, ex280 in front, xspc raystorm v3 cpu block, alpha computer kryographics gtx 780ti, alphacool 100mm res, all black nickel XSPC 3/8 5/8 compression fittings along with some of their 45' and 90' fittings.
I leak tested it for about 4 hours hooked up to a variable bench power supply, and at least this time i used my Canon DSLR to take a photo instead of my ratty iphone 5 camera. Ill take some more tomorrow evening when im not so tired. looks like the faster pump shaved a few 'c off idle/load temps but i wont be 100% sure till tomorrow. Right now my 4670k @ 4.4ghz is idling at 26'c and only hit 44'c while gaming. I have frequency locked, so it will run cooler at idle when/if i enable some power saving features. My gtx 780ti @1300mhz is idling at 22'c and it might have barely hit 40'c while gaming. The 3x ear bleeder Corsair fans (from hydro coolers) on the 360 rad are set to a max rpm of 1800 but idle quite a bit lower. And the stock phanteks 140mm fans on the 280 rad are at 1150rpm. Rear exhaust is 140mm yate loon which i plan on replacing soon.

Tomorrow i'll use a proper large aperture lens with a tripod and remote shutter release to get some sharper photos. That mayhems X1 UV blue really glows well in the tubes but not for crap in the res. hmm..


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Andrew LB*
> 
> I just spent the last 7 hours draining my loop, installing a bunch of rotary fittings, cleaning up wiring, and re-routed all tubing so they'd be shorter due to the added 45' and 90' rotary fittings. I also swapped out the Alphacool DDC310 pump (200lph) for a Laing DDC-1T PWM pump (420lph) because flow seemed to take a real hit when i added the 280mm rad up front in my Enthoo Pro M. So now i've got a XSPC ex360 up top, ex280 in front, xspc raystorm v3 cpu block, alpha computer kryographics gtx 780ti, alphacool 100mm res, all black nickel XSPC 3/8 5/8 compression fittings along with some of their 45' and 90' fittings.
> I leak tested it for about 4 hours hooked up to a variable bench power supply, and at least this time i used my Canon DSLR to take a photo instead of my ratty iphone 5 camera. Ill take some more tomorrow evening when im not so tired. looks like the faster pump shaved a few 'c off idle/load temps but i wont be 100% sure till tomorrow. Right now my 4670k @ 4.4ghz is idling at 26'c and only hit 44'c while gaming. I have frequency locked, so it will run cooler at idle when/if i enable some power saving features. My gtx 780ti @1300mhz is idling at 22'c and it might have barely hit 40'c while gaming. The 3x ear bleeder Corsair fans (from hydro coolers) on the 360 rad are set to a max rpm of 1800 but idle quite a bit lower. And the stock phanteks 140mm fans on the 280 rad are at 1150rpm. Rear exhaust is 140mm yate loon which i plan on replacing soon.
> 
> Tomorrow i'll use a proper large aperture lens with a tripod and remote shutter release to get some sharper photos. That mayhems X1 UV blue really glows well in the tubes but not for crap in the res. hmm..
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Looks really good. Another great example of soft tubing looking every bit as clean as hard line, and being much easier to work with!


----------



## 19DELTASNAFU

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AKBraves*
> 
> Posting up some pics of my slightly modded Luxe. I love the case.


Yep.

http://s117.photobucket.com/user/looker12/media/IMG_0660_zpsglazc6pm.jpg.html


----------



## Andrew LB

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Looks really good. Another great example of soft tubing looking every bit as clean as hard line, and being much easier to work with!


Thanks!

Probably the most difficult part was figuring out where to place the 4x 12" UV cold cathodes since the side acrylic panel only has a tiny painted edge (the black border on it easily chips/scratches) and I didn't want the CCFLs visible from where I sit due to them being UV. I ended up going down to the local hardware store and bought a 36" section of 3/4" Aluminum angle bar, cut it into 12" sections, polished the inside faces using an 8" buffing wheel on my bench grinder so it was as close to being a mirror finish as possible, then painted the outer faces using satin black paint and used those to hide each of the UV tubes. I have them mounted on the front bottom edge of the 360 radiator up top, on the front edge of the PSU cover, and along the front 280 radiator. I mounted the 4th to the backside edge of the top 360 radiator (didn't need a reflector) and they work great. Im probably going to get a 5mm UV LED to install in my reservoir using a plug designed for LEDs since as you can see in the photo, the fluid inside isn't being effected by the UV for some reason.


----------



## Andrew LB

With the case all back together im noticing a few things im not happy with. First, the stamped metal mesh in the top of the case is really restrictive especially when using the magnetic dust filter. The same goes for the rear exhaust fan. Almost every PC i've built over the past 20 years where air has to go through a stamped pattern in sheet metal, has resulted in me cutting out that metal. I think ill be doing that with this case as well for both the top and the rear exhaust. From my experience, a stamped grill like the one in the rear of the Pro M reduces airflow by around 25%. The top of the case is much more restrictive because the round hole design is much more closed as opposed to Hex and then combined with the dust filter, i'd be surprised if only 25% of the air makes it through.

So if i have time tomorrow, i'm going to start by cutting out the rear mesh so the exhaust fan can blow unimpeded. The same goes for the top of the case. I will likely still use the magnetic filter up top for the time being until i can find a more "open" filter material like this and make my own. Or quite possibly i may just run it without filtration front and top and every few weeks blow it out with my Craftsman 60 gallon air compressor. A word of warning, NEVER use a compressor like this unless you have high quality oil/water filtering and a proper dryer like one would use when using automotive HVLP paint systems. You don't want atomized water or oil on your electronics. Ill let you guys know how it goes when the mods are complete.


----------



## pez

Just to show you guys I still have love for Phanteks, I present my GFs setup:


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pez*
> 
> Just to show you guys I still have love for Phanteks, I present my GFs setup:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Looks good, I really like that headphone rack. What kind of funky keyboard is that?


----------



## pez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rfarmer*
> 
> Looks good, I really like that headphone rack. What kind of funky keyboard is that?


Thank ya!









And keyboard is a KC60 with Tai-Hao Miami keycaps







. Brought to you by Massdrop







. She's loving the setup...however I've got to figure out if the SATA cable or the SSD took a crap on the move. That or I'll find a way to hate this ASRock board







.


----------



## 19DELTASNAFU

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpecFree*
> 
> I have a msi m5 z170 and im using a cpu header as i believe The other headers arent pwm.
> 
> I have used it with another pwm hub before


Get rid of command center and just use the bios tool. Set the header to Smart Fan. The temp will scroll across the screen. Set the first to "balls" below the curve, the first at about 27c and the second, still under the cpu idle temp, to about 50c, then the third to 55c and 50% which will be above the cpu idle temps. If you do this the system will idle with fans off and only come on when you're gaming or using CPU heavy work loads. I take it you have the phanteks hub and all fans are pwm. Don't know what you'll have to do if the fans are not pwm. I have the MSI M7 and my fans rarely spin unless I game. CPU temps set around 40c at 4.6ghz and 1.4 volts. Tried the Command Center and it's horrible. BIOS is much much better. Just for clarity I have the one pwm cable from the fan header ran to CPU 2, water pump to cpu 1. No other connections to fan hub are needed. No Sata, nothing. Hope this helps.

Forgot to add that all fans need to connect directly to the fan hub with no splitters to get a precise pwm signal to each fan. I started with an ek 3 fan splitter and would get fan "jump" from the first fan on the splitter. While all other fans would stop the first fan would attempt to start. It wouldn't start but the blades would move. Solved after using extensions for each fan to go directly to hub. I'm using EK Vardars, 7 of them.
":


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *19DELTASNAFU*
> 
> Get rid of command center and just use the bios tool. Set the header to Smart Fan. The temp will scroll across the screen. Set the first to "balls" below the curve, the first at about 27c and the second, still under the cpu idle temp, to about 50c, then the third to 55c and 50% which will be above the cpu idle temps. If you do this the system will idle with fans off and only come on when you're gaming or using CPU heavy work loads. I take it you have the phanteks hub and all fans are pwm. Don't know what you'll have to do if the fans are not pwm. I have the MSI M7 and my fans rarely spin unless I game. CPU temps set around 40c at 4.6ghz and 1.4 volts. Tried the Command Center and it's horrible. BIOS is much much better. Just for clarity I have the one pwm cable from the fan header ran to CPU 2, water pump to cpu 1. No other connections to fan hub are needed. No Sata, nothing. Hope this helps.
> 
> Forgot to add that all fans need to connect directly to the fan hub with no splitters to get a precise pwm signal to each fan. I started with an ek 3 fan splitter and would get fan "jump" from the first fan on the splitter. While all other fans would stop the first fan would attempt to start. It wouldn't start but the blades would move. Solved after using extensions for each fan to go directly to hub. I'm using EK Vardars, 7 of them.
> ":


Command Center is not much good. Fan curve settings go to default whenever system restarted /rebooted.









You say to not use the sata power on hub. That is okay if your total fan load is less than what fan header is rated for. But many (maybe most) fan headers are rated for at about 1 amp / 12 watts .. trying to pull more power tends to 'let the smoke out' of the motherboard traces and header no longer works.
If fan header connected to hub is really a PWM header, it's pin-2 is 12v constant power to hub .. just like it is when SATA is plugged to PSU.


----------



## 19DELTASNAFU

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpecFree*
> 
> hmm, i wonder if i can get em to run at the MP's rated speed then


Yep, I checked for you. Download your manual and go to page 40, I think this overrides command center. I'd delete command center and use the bios setting like on page 40 of your manual.


----------



## 19DELTASNAFU

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpecFree*
> 
> hmm, i wonder if i can get em to run at the MP's rated speed then


Yep, I checked for you. Download your manual and go to page 40, I think this overrides command center. I'd delete command center and use the bios setting like on page 40 of your manual.


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Andrew LB*
> 
> Tomorrow i'll use a proper large aperture lens with a tripod and remote shutter release to get some sharper photos. That mayhems X1 UV blue really glows well in the tubes but not for crap in the res. hmm..


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Looks really good. *Another great example of soft tubing looking every bit as clean as hard line, and being much easier to work with!*


Could not agree more...



Still figuring out how to cover up the H240X since I did a crappy paint job. Painting is hard...


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> Could not agree more...
> 
> 
> 
> Still figuring out how to cover up the H240X since I did a crappy paint job. Painting is hard...


Can you do the carbon fiber on it and cut out for the res window?


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Can you do the carbon fiber on it and cut out for the res window?


I was thinking that, but I don't want to "carbon fiber everything." I was thinking of using the silver vinyl from the PSU area... but That may stand out too much??? Right now I am thinking of a custom acrylic piece over it, but that it just time and complexity.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> I was thinking that, but I don't want to "carbon fiber everything." I was thinking of using the silver vinyl from the PSU area... but That may stand out too much??? Right now I am thinking of a custom acrylic piece over it, but that it just time and complexity.


I like the idea of the custom acrylic. Personally don't like the silver idea.


----------



## Attero87

Would the Ek Predator 240 fit in the front on a P400s?


----------



## dlewbell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Attero87*
> 
> Would the Ek Predator 240 fit in the front on a P400s?


I can't see any reason that it wouldn't. It officially supports 280 & 360 radiators, so the extra length of the Predator 240 over a traditional 240 radiator shouldn't be an issue. The only question I would have is whether the bottom HDD cage needs to be removed. I wouldn't think so, but you'd be best off having someone with the case verify if that is a concern for you.


----------



## Ubbidude

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LiamG6*
> 
> the case spec sheet says 48mm between motherboard and 140mm fan/rad. so maybe 35mm tall ram maximum with 280 rad in the top.
> 
> or you can do as I did, don't use the removable rad/fan tray, just take it out, then attach the radiator to the top of the case. I used two strips of aluminium on top of the steel frame, with 8 holes drilled for 140mm fan spacing, then I pinched the frame between the aluminium strips and bolted it to the rads, basically the rad is hanging from the aluminium strips and when you tighten the bolts it pinches the frame and stays in place. With a 30mm thick 280mm ST30 rad and 140mm EK Vardars my fans are above my ram slots by about 5-10mm so I can use any height ram I want, I'm using Gskill trident X without issues.


Are you running a rad in the front aswell?


----------



## smithydan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Attero87*
> 
> Would the Ek Predator 240 fit in the front on a P400s?


Easy


----------



## owcraftsman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Attero87*
> 
> Would the Ek Predator 240 fit in the front on a P400s?


I have a 280 in the front of mine works fine (see sig) 240 should be a piece of cake


----------



## Attero87

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *owcraftsman*
> 
> I have a 280 in the front of mine works fine (see sig) 240 should be a piece of cake


I see you have the panel above the hard drive cage removed, I would rather have it stay on and concerned about the fit


----------



## dlewbell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Attero87*
> 
> I see you have the panel above the hard drive cage removed, I would rather have it stay on and concerned about the fit


You should be fine. I just thought to compare the length of the Predator 240 to the height of an ATX motherboard. Specifically, the ASUS Maximus VIII Hero that owcraftsman shows in his Eclipse P400. ASUS lists it as 305mm tall (as per ATX spec), vs 295mm long for the Predator 240. You should be able to easily fit it without removing the bottom panel cover or the HDD cage.


----------



## Shiotcrock

How are these cases for space heaters? I want a Evolv mid tower in Black I think but I'm really worried about the cooling vents to me they seem way too small I mean the entire front is blocked off by a metal panel or do the fans do ok with temps with a graphics card at max?


----------



## boredgunner

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shiotcrock*
> 
> How are these cases for space heaters? I want a Evolv mid tower in Black I think but I'm really worried about the cooling vents to me they seem way too small I mean the entire front is blocked off by a metal panel or do the fans do ok with temps with a graphics card at max?


I was worried about the same thing, but my temps in the ATX version are fine (can't speak for smaller ones). My GTX 1080 gets 3-5c hotter than in a Corsair Carbide Air 540 which had dual Silverstone AP182s in the front. Not a significant difference at all other than the fact that the Evolv is almost silent while the Air 540 setup was loud as hell. Note that this is with the stock fans in the Evolv ATX TG (2x 140mm front intake and 1x 140mm rear exhaust) plus an EK Predator 240 on top with its default 2x Vardars exhausting out of the top.

I would of course recommend the tempered glass version, it's so much higher quality and better looking than the regular window.


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shiotcrock*
> 
> How are these cases for space heaters? I want a Evolv mid tower in Black I think but I'm really worried about the cooling vents to me they seem way too small I mean the entire front is blocked off by a metal panel or do the fans do ok with temps with a graphics card at max?


If you are doing air cooling, the Evolv as is with maybe an extra fan, will not hinder you at all. Water cooling is a bit of a different story, but there are non hard modding solutions (resting top and front on clips, back fan as intake, not buying crap fans/restrictive rads, etc).


----------



## Shiotcrock

ok thanks cool

I asked the same question on Amazon and some guy said he lives in Flordia granted his air conditioning is on but he gets solid temps.
Then I seen another review where said he could fry a egg on top of the case so I'm fishing for answers.

I like the radiator water cooling bracket think it's slick but I want a case that will use the 240mm Corsair 100iv2 cooler I have.


----------



## Alex132

With a 760T, a very open and airy case by comparison. If I don't turn my fans beyond 60rpm on my case it gets super hot too. Metal around the AIO gets to around 60-65'c and internals are 50-55'c. But that's obvious why (well one being my fans not ramping up correctly and two being 295X2).

Have the correct fan setup and correct temperature curves and you'll be fine. The Phantek Evolv isn't some mysterious air-locked case


----------



## AlphaC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shiotcrock*
> 
> How are these cases for space heaters? I want a Evolv mid tower in Black I think but I'm really worried about the cooling vents to me they seem way too small I mean the entire front is blocked off by a metal panel or do the fans do ok with temps with a graphics card at max?


Quote:


> The cooling performance of the Phanteks Enthoo EVOLV ATX in enthusiast trim is simply phenomenal. The wide open design allows for incredible airflow in and across your components. The dual 140mm intake fans provide more than enough cool air to keep the Tri-SLI setup and multiple hard drives in our test system cool as a cucumber.


http://www.hardocp.com/article/2015/07/02/phanteks_enthoo_evolv_atx_mid_tower_chassis_review/6
Quote:


> Despite the relatively closed off panels, the trio of 140mm fans work well to keep temperatures in check. The exhaust fan is usually the most important one as far as CPU cooling goes, and it does a decent job of removing hot air from this important area, keeping our CPU at a delta T of 50°C.
> 
> The graphics card, too, is well looked after by the dual intakes, especially as there's uninterrupted airflow from front to back. The delta T result of 43°C is the lowest we've seen from a case using the new test gear. Admittedly, the differences aren't massive, but it does indicate that the Enthoo EVOLV ATX is more than capable of cooling a single GPU system, and we'd wager that with appropriate spacing between cards it wouldn't do too bad with SLI or CrossFire set-ups either.


http://www.bit-tech.net/hardware/cases/2015/06/01/phanteks-enthoo-evolv-atx-review/4
Quote:


> Luckily the Phanteks Enthoo EVOLV ATX has it where it counts (especially where Gaming is concerned) as its GPU Cooling result is very good! Keeping our toasty test XFX R9 290X is no easy task, but with a maximum temperature of 78 degrees Celsius and a Delta of 54 degrees the EVOLV ATX sits comfortably in the top half of our grid. This is no doubt down to that cavernous interior where the air flow of the three PH-F140SP 140mm fans is unobstructed front to rear.


http://www.pcgameware.co.uk/reviews/cases/phanteks-enthoo-evolv-atx-case-review/

http://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/phanteks-enthoo-evolv-atx-tempered-glass-mid-tower-case,4560-3.html

If you want some numbers rather than pure conjecture


----------



## Andrew LB

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pez*
> 
> Just to show you guys I still have love for Phanteks, I present my GFs setup:


I apologize in advance, but i just couldn't help but check out your gf's cans.


----------



## Andrew LB

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Attero87*
> 
> I see you have the panel above the hard drive cage removed, I would rather have it stay on and concerned about the fit


I have a 360 up top and 280 in the front and while i initially had to remove the panel above the HDD cage, i ended up taking an angle grinder with a metal cutoff wheel and cut out a section so it fit perfectly around the radiator. The mounted my pump to that modded cover.


----------



## Andrew LB

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shiotcrock*
> 
> How are these cases for space heaters? I want a Evolv mid tower in Black I think but I'm really worried about the cooling vents to me they seem way too small I mean the entire front is blocked off by a metal panel or do the fans do ok with temps with a graphics card at max?


I went with the Enthoo Pro M specifically because of the restrictive nature of the Evolv cases. I almost got the Evolv anyway because I enjoy altering cases and even though it would be quite a bit of work, i'm certain its possible.

Hmm... I had an interesting idea for a custom cooling setup the other day while replacing a bad bathroom fan motor. While buying the replacement i came across in-line duct fans which you mount far away from your bathroom/kitchen hood/etc and because they're typically installed in an attic or somewhere where proper sound insulation can be used, the only noise you hear is the air. If one were to design a small external radiator enclosure along with some high quality dust filtration on the intake like the ones that come on those expensive air purifiers made by IQ Air, there are powerful in-line duct fans that have MASSIVE static air pressure capabilities (that one linked is over 1.5" H2O @ 200cfm. Yes, that's 38mm @ 200cfm. lol), one could in theory have insane radiator cooling capability with practically zero sound since the fan is mounted in another room or in a sound isolated enclosure and filters like the one i mentioned pretty much eliminate the sound of rushing air.

edit/

It seems some people had a similar idea. But i think it would work much better by using an external radiator box and not some ghetto flex-pipe duct stuck onto the front of a PC. lol.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1201201/cold-air-intake-but-different-condensation

After watching Linus's whole house watercooling setup, i believe this may be right up his alley!


----------



## Shiotcrock

What case color do you think is best? Silver Grey or Black I'm leaning towards the black....

Can you get additional power buttons and reset switches for the case off the Phanteks website?


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shiotcrock*
> 
> What case color do you think is best? Silver Grey or Black I'm leaning towards the black....
> 
> Can you get additional power buttons and reset switches for the case off the Phanteks website?


Silver is iMac Pro silver. Grey is one shade shy of gunmetal. Black is black. Black is the easiest to color match, but I like how my grey contrasts with the case design accents.


----------



## Alex132

I really wish they did a white....


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shiotcrock*
> 
> What case color do you think is best? Silver Grey or Black I'm leaning towards the black....
> 
> Can you get additional power buttons and reset switches for the case off the Phanteks website?


What paskowitz said.


----------



## Alex132

I would go grey, personally.


----------



## Kajel

https://mnpctech.com/phanteks-case-mods/phanteks-primo-front-grill-en/evolv-vented-front-panel.html

Mine just shipped ...can't wait


----------



## AlphaC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kajel*
> 
> https://mnpctech.com/phanteks-case-mods/phanteks-primo-front-grill-en/evolv-vented-front-panel.html
> 
> Mine just shipped ...can't wait


Everything they sell is so pricey by at least 30-40% :O


----------



## geriatricpollywog

Are there any other aftermarket Evolv ATX parts? Like a radiator tray designed for 280mm rads?


----------



## boredgunner

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0451*
> 
> Are there any other aftermarket Evolv ATX parts? Like a radiator tray designed for 280mm rads?


Its radiator tray can take a 280mm radiator by default.


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0451*
> 
> Are there any other aftermarket Evolv ATX parts? Like a radiator tray designed for 280mm rads?


no, it's not a DLC based mid tower.


----------



## geriatricpollywog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *boredgunner*
> 
> Its radiator tray can take a 280mm radiator by default.


I need to cut out the 120mm bars blocking the airflow. That's not a problem; however, the tray will flex unless I solder erector set parts to the tray as support.

I don't want to dig up my old erector set.


----------



## Faster_is_better

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TripleNipple*
> 
> *Enthoo Primo - Max Radiator thickness* for front and front side dual 120?
> 
> Im trying to plan out a build with this case and want to set up 2 dual 120mm rads in the front and front side like in the image below:
> 
> 
> 
> But im not sure how thick i can go without having the rads interfere with each other? is 45mm too much?


Check out this page for measurements. With some math you may be able to determine what will work.

Another option is to look through some of the club members build logs who have actually done that setup. I know 1 or 2 have for sure but can't think of their names.


----------



## TheWizardMan

So I got my luxe tg and have started my build. So far pretty happy, though I had to take out the 5.25 cage to fit my 420mm rad, which was disappointing.


----------



## 19DELTASNAFU

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheWizardMan*
> 
> So I got my luxe tg and have started my build. So far pretty happy, though I had to take out the 5.25 cage to fit my 420mm rad, which was disappointing.


Since you've went that far I'd go ahead and remove that front plate like I did. Changes the whole appearance of the case. Get a piece of black plexi and fill in the back wall. Makes for an awesome ease watercooling build.

http://s117.photobucket.com/user/looker12/media/IMG_0664_zps1wlr0kqz.jpg.html


----------



## TheWizardMan

That's a gorgeous build! the bends around the CPU look great!

I'm going to see what I can do with the plates on for now. I have some cool ideas about how to pull it off, but if I can't get it how I want I will probably follow your lead.


----------



## TheAbyss

Hello, just got a used Luxe (nonTG) and planning on Watercooling. Did you drill additional holes to fit a 280 rad in front or was it sufficient to remove the front plate? I just started modding the drive cage to let the tubes go straight down from the top rad. Since I have a 420 EK 55mm top rad, I can only fit the fans pushing into the case, but that should not be an issue from a thermal standpoint I think.


----------



## dlewbell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheAbyss*
> 
> Hello, just got a used Luxe (nonTG) and planning on Watercooling. Did you drill additional holes to fit a 280 rad in front or was it sufficient to remove the front plate? I just started modding the drive cage to let the tubes go straight down from the top rad. Since I have a 420 EK 55mm top rad, I can only fit the fans pushing into the case, but that should not be an issue from a thermal standpoint I think.


I'm not the user you were asking, but I'm certain he would have needed to drill custom holes for a 280 to fit in the front. The factory holes spacing places the lower 140mm fan against the bottom panel of the case. Unless someone made a radiator with no overhang on one end, everything would have to be moved up to fit (or a hole cut in the bottom panel).


----------



## koniu777

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dlewbell*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *TheAbyss*
> 
> Hello, just got a used Luxe (nonTG) and planning on Watercooling. Did you drill additional holes to fit a 280 rad in front or was it sufficient to remove the front plate? I just started modding the drive cage to let the tubes go straight down from the top rad. Since I have a 420 EK 55mm top rad, I can only fit the fans pushing into the case, but that should not be an issue from a thermal standpoint I think.
> 
> 
> 
> I'm not the user you were asking, but I'm certain he would have needed to drill custom holes for a 280 to fit in the front. The factory holes spacing places the lower 140mm fan against the bottom panel of the case. Unless someone made a radiator with no overhang on one end, everything would have to be moved up to fit (or a hole cut in the bottom panel).
Click to expand...

I'll give you guys a tip, premount the bottom fan to the unit and mount the whole radiator with just 4 screws through the top fan, that way the screw spacing doesn't matter for the bottom.


----------



## Shiotcrock

double post


----------



## Shiotcrock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kajel*
> 
> https://mnpctech.com/phanteks-case-mods/phanteks-primo-front-grill-en/evolv-vented-front-panel.html
> 
> Mine just shipped ...can't wait


Really like that way better airflow


----------



## Alover

Hello!.
I tried to find some info about the phanteks entho pro m, but i can't find it anywhere.
I want to know the thickness of the structure/side panels.
I find it someway... flimsy.

Thank you.


----------



## nycgtr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Faster_is_better*
> 
> Check out this page for measurements. With some math you may be able to determine what will work.
> 
> Another option is to look through some of the club members build logs who have actually done that setup. I know 1 or 2 have for sure but can't think of their names.


I have all 45s in that setup minus the one that uses the bracket. It's too much hassle to try to add a 45mm on the side bracket. It's doable just makes things painful. Also you don't need all that rad. It makes
a 0-2 degree difference once you've hit your returns margin.


----------



## kevininsimi

Guys serious question:

Evolv tempered glass or non tempered glass?

Not a fan of the TG panels on both sides... That's my main turn off.


----------



## boredgunner

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevininsimi*
> 
> Guys serious question:
> 
> Evolv tempered glass or non tempered glass?
> 
> Not a fan of the TG panels on both sides... That's my main turn off.


Tempered glass. Quality is so much better. Maybe contact Phanteks and try to get an aluminum side panel for the right side?


----------



## Alex132

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *boredgunner*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *kevininsimi*
> 
> Guys serious question:
> 
> Evolv tempered glass or non tempered glass?
> 
> Not a fan of the TG panels on both sides... That's my main turn off.
> 
> 
> 
> Tempered glass. Quality is so much better. Maybe contact Phanteks and try to get an aluminum side panel for the right side?
Click to expand...

I think you can buy spare parts - but the connectors will be your main issue. The TG model comes with 4 screws whereas the normal model has those cool hinge doors.


----------



## geriatricpollywog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevininsimi*
> 
> Guys serious question:
> 
> Evolv tempered glass or non tempered glass?
> 
> Not a fan of the TG panels on both sides... That's my main turn off.


Work on your wiring game and you can make both sides look good with TG.

Personally, I can't stand the look of scratched plexiglass unless I'm going for a hockey-themed case.


----------



## boredgunner

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alex132*
> 
> I think you can buy spare parts - but the connectors will be your main issue. The TG model comes with 4 screws whereas the normal model has those cool hinge doors.


Looking at my TG model, it looks like the thumbscrew holes for a regular side panel are there.


----------



## kevininsimi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *boredgunner*
> 
> Tempered glass. Quality is so much better. Maybe contact Phanteks and try to get an aluminum side panel for the right side?


Yeah I might do that. Chances are if I order I'll come to like it that I won't even ask for a replacement side panel lol.

My cable management skills are ok in my opinion however, I am known to get lazy sometimes towards the end of a build haha.

Also, does the LED strip for the Enthoo Luxe work with the Evolve? I read on amazon that it's for the Luxe only?


----------



## boredgunner

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevininsimi*
> 
> Yeah I might do that. Chances are if I order I'll come to like it that I won't even ask for a replacement side panel lol.
> 
> My cable management skills are ok in my opinion however, I am known to get lazy sometimes towards the end of a build haha.
> 
> Also, does the LED strip for the Enthoo Luxe work with the Evolve? I read on amazon that it's for the Luxe only?


No idea but if you want LED strips, NZXT Hue+ is the way to go.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevininsimi*
> 
> Yeah I might do that. Chances are if I order I'll come to like it that I won't even ask for a replacement side panel lol.
> 
> My cable management skills are ok in my opinion however, I am known to get lazy sometimes towards the end of a build haha.
> 
> Also, does the LED strip for the Enthoo Luxe work with the Evolve? I read on amazon that it's for the Luxe only?


They work with the Evolv TG. They are very nice and integrate with no added parts.


----------



## paskowitz

I second the HUE+. The Phanteks strips are big, bulky, and hard to bend at angles. The white is also very blue. They are also SUPER bright... like holy cow... not necessarily a bad thing. They also have a more even light distribution than the HUE+.

The hue adjustment on the HUE+ allows for pretty decent color control. I got mine, plus some extensions on Amazon Warehouse Deals for like $60 total.


----------



## boredgunner

Hue+ is also magnetic which is a massive benefit.


----------



## dlewbell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *boredgunner*
> 
> Hue+ is also magnetic which is a massive benefit.


The newer version of the Phanteks LED strip is also magnetic, though I can't vouch for the strength of the magnets, as I only have the older version that was adhesive only.


----------



## xTesla1856

Just ordered a new Enthoo Luxe Tempered Glass in grey to upgrade from my regular Luxe. My local store had an introductory sale for it and I got it for 175 bucks shipped







My case journey might finally be over


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xTesla1856*
> 
> Just ordered a new Enthoo Luxe Tempered Glass in grey to upgrade from my regular Luxe. My local store had an introductory sale for it and I got it for 175 bucks shipped
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My case journey might finally be over
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


That is a nice looking case.









So does the Luxe have only 1 glass panel? If so that is the way I would go.


----------



## xTesla1856

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rfarmer*
> 
> That is a nice looking case.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So does the Luxe have only 1 glass panel? If so that is the way I would go.


Yes, the Luxe TG only has a glass panel on the front. The rear panel is a regular metal side panel.


----------



## john88

Just finished moving over my old parts from my Antec 302 into my new enthoo pro m case!

Before:









After:









Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk


----------



## Testing12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *john88*
> 
> Just finished moving over my old parts from my Antec 302 into my new enthoo pro m case!
> 
> After:


I'm about to build in a Phanteks Enthoo Pro M Tempered Glass case and was wondering if the one you've shown is the tempered glass version or the acrylic version.

Thanks...


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Testing12*
> 
> I'm about to build in a Phanteks Enthoo Pro M Tempered Glass case and was wondering if the one you've shown is the tempered glass version or the acrylic version.
> 
> Thanks...


You would not be able to see the difference between them in a photo.


----------



## john88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Testing12*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *john88*
> 
> Just finished moving over my old parts from my Antec 302 into my new enthoo pro m case!
> 
> After:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm about to build in a Phanteks Enthoo Pro M Tempered Glass case and was wondering if the one you've shown is the tempered glass version or the acrylic version.
> 
> Thanks...
Click to expand...

It's the acrylic version. Honestly didnt know they had tempered glass version for Pro M, until after I got it haha. Would've happily paid the extra 20 bucks for it.

Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk


----------



## Testing12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *john88*
> 
> Just finished moving over my old parts from my Antec 302 into my new enthoo pro m case!
> 
> After:


I'm about to build in a Phanteks Enthoo Pro M Tempered Glass case and was wondering if the one you've shown is the tempered glass version or the acrylic version.

Thanks...
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> You would not be able to see the difference between them in a photo.


I hope you are correct. From a video I've seen (



) it looks like the glass version has a tint to it.
I'm not sure (I've not seen them in person), but I think I'd rather have the window clear.
At any rate, I'm about to purchase the tempered glass version, so I'll soon see.


----------



## Testing12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *john88*
> 
> It's the acrylic version. Honestly didnt know they had tempered glass version for Pro M, until after I got it haha. Would've happily paid the extra 20 bucks for it.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk


Thanks for your info.

Yes, I've specifically waited to purchase the Pro M until they released the tempered glass version.


----------



## museumman

Heres my Enthoo Pro M with Tempered Glass.... though the panel isnt on in this pic, it reflects to much shooting pics inside..


----------



## LiamG6

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ubbidude*
> 
> Are you running a rad in the front aswell?


Yes I have a 360mm 45mm thick rad in the front, it is 400mm tall and the fans on the bottom of my 280 rad would touch the top of the front 360 rad, but I have the 280 slid back a bit further to clear it, there is still room for a 120mm 45mm thick rad in the rear of the case which I also have.

I've also added an external 420mm 85mm thick monsta rad and that has helped improve my cooling by dumping a lot of heat outside the case, I could probably improve things by removing the front 360 rad so there is cool air blowing through the case rather than heated air from the 360 rad.


----------



## Testing12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *museumman*
> 
> Heres my Enthoo Pro M with Tempered Glass.... though the panel isnt on in this pic, it reflects to much shooting pics inside..


Isn't the tempered glass version the same as the acrylic version (with the exception of glass instead of acrylic window)?

BTW, nice job on your build!


----------



## xTesla1856

Excuses in advance for the potato pic: My Enthoo Luxe TG just arrived. If this isn't sexy, I don't know what is. Now I only have to make my Predator 360 fit again







...


----------



## smithydan

I had so hope they had do the swivel door feature with the evolv.


----------



## smithydan

Quote:


> MSI and Phanteks launch USB 3.1 gen2 Type-C front panels
> 
> 
> Just ahead of everyone scooting off for an Xmas break, MSI and Phanteks launched a series of new PC front panel solutions. The first such collaborative device is designed to meld MSI's new GAMING 7 motherboard with the Phanteks Enthoo Elite. This first product "will soon be released" promised MSI.


----------



## TheAbyss

Hey, Thanks a lot for your reply, I´ll see what I can do. Another thing that worries me is the space unter the top panel. I have read from various articles that the Luxe has 65mm space from top to the Mainboard, but has anyone measured the top compartment space? Is it possible to mount a slim 420 Rad in there? Just to be clear, I mean the part literally above the actual tower frame.


----------



## doyll

@smithydan so MSI "promises" 'new panel solutions.
If they can't dazzle us with brilliance, they will try baffling us with bullpucky.


----------



## dlewbell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheAbyss*
> 
> Hey, Thanks a lot for your reply, I´ll see what I can do. Another thing that worries me is the space unter the top panel. I have read from various articles that the Luxe has 65mm space from top to the Mainboard, but has anyone measured the top compartment space? Is it possible to mount a slim 420 Rad in there? Just to be clear, I mean the part literally above the actual tower frame.


The opening in the top plastic panel is 144mm x 422mm.
The depth from top of mounting surface to top of plastic panel (bottom of removable grill) is 31.67mm.
The depth from top of mounting surface to bottom of lip on plastic panel is 29.25mm.

You might be able to fit a slim 360 up there, but I don't see a slim 420 fitting. As you can see, there's just not enough additional space available to the front or back under the bottom lip.

(Excuse the mess. New Vive owner, & haven't cleaned up the area & wiring yet.)


----------



## labjet

hello, been lurking for a couple years now







decided to sign up and show my love for phanteks cases.

First PC build - Phanteks Pro - z97 watercooled
Loved the case and was a breeze to build in for a first time builder.





Second Build - Evolv ATX TG - X99 watercooled
Constantly wanting to Mod/upgrade led to a new build








Love the Evolv ATX TG, while air flow isnt as great it still handles temps ok. Asthetically it s amazing and the clear TG panel makes it look like there is nothing there.





Also made a few mods to the case to fit fans in the top cavity and to accommodate the 250mm EK res attached to EK PE280


In an attempt to improve air flow i also purchased the Evolv vented bezel from Mnpctech https://mnpctech.com/phanteks-case-mods/phanteks-primo-front-grill-en/evolv-vented-front-panel.html
From my limited testing i saw and improvment of about 2-3c underload, the cool down from load to idle though was alot quicker.
Looks wise not as great as stock.


----------



## TheAbyss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dlewbell*
> 
> The opening in the top plastic panel is 144mm x 422mm.
> The depth from top of mounting surface to top of plastic panel (bottom of removable grill) is 31.67mm.
> The depth from top of mounting surface to bottom of lip on plastic panel is 29.25mm.
> 
> You might be able to fit a slim 360 up there, but I don't see a slim 420 fitting. As you can see, there's just not enough additional space available to the front or back under the bottom lip.
> 
> (Excuse the mess. New Vive owner, & haven't cleaned up the area & wiring yet.)


Hello, Thanks for the info. So my rad and fans stay where they are right now


----------



## Testing12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smithydan*
> 
> I had so hope they had do the swivel door feature with the evolv.


I was hoping they'd do a swivel door when they brought out the tempered glass version of the Enthoo Pro M.
Unfortunately, they didn't... I understand why they didn't of course, but it would sure have been nice!


----------



## kevininsimi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xTesla1856*
> 
> Excuses in advance for the potato pic: My Enthoo Luxe TG just arrived. If this isn't sexy, I don't know what is. Now I only have to make my Predator 360 fit again
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ...


They made a sweet case sweeter. And in my opinion did the TG right by placing it on one side, unlike the Evolv.


----------



## geriatricpollywog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevininsimi*
> 
> They made a sweet case sweeter. And in my opinion did the TG right by placing it on one side, unlike the Evolv.


How do you cut and grind on the case if the glass is attached on a hinge?


----------



## eTheBlack

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0451*
> 
> How do you cut and grind on the case if the glass is attached on a hinge?


You open it and then pull it up from hinges?


----------



## PureBlackFire

Phanteks really should have made a white version of the Pro M


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!













not my pics. credit goes to this user here.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PureBlackFire*
> 
> Phanteks really should have made a white version of the Pro M
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> not my pics. credit goes to this user here.


They should. And whoever did that did a really nice job, right down to the smallest details.


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *labjet*
> 
> hello, been lurking for a couple years now
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> decided to sign up and show my love for phanteks cases.
> 
> First PC build - Phanteks Pro - z97 watercooled
> Loved the case and was a breeze to build in for a first time builder.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Second Build - Evolv ATX TG - X99 watercooled
> Constantly wanting to Mod/upgrade led to a new build
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Love the Evolv ATX TG, while air flow isnt as great it still handles temps ok. Asthetically it s amazing and the clear TG panel makes it look like there is nothing there.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also made a few mods to the case to fit fans in the top cavity and to accommodate the 250mm EK res attached to EK PE280
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In an attempt to improve air flow i also purchased the Evolv vented bezel from Mnpctech https://mnpctech.com/phanteks-case-mods/phanteks-primo-front-grill-en/evolv-vented-front-panel.html
> From my limited testing i saw and improvment of about 2-3c underload, the cool down from load to idle though was alot quicker.
> Looks wise not as great as stock.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Both of those builds are stunning. I particularly like the gold accents on the Pro build.


----------



## geriatricpollywog

Cutting up my Evolv ATX


----------



## xTesla1856

Speaking of cutting up, today I transfered my build from my Enthoo Luxe to my new Enthoo Luxe TG: As with any Luxe or Enthoo Pro, to make a Predator 360 fit with the fans up top, you need to cut out a section of the top panel. Luckily, my friend owns a body shop so this was done in about 2 minutes:


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!








/


----------



## jefferzbooboo

I was wondering if someone could tell me the max reservoir size for the back panel reservoir mount on an Enthoo Pro. I've seen 170mm reservoirs used but I'd like to use a 250mm if it fits.


----------



## geriatricpollywog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jefferzbooboo*
> 
> I was wondering if someone could tell me the max reservoir size for the back panel reservoir mount on an Enthoo Pro. I've seen 170mm reservoirs used but I'd like to use a 250mm if it fits.


Have you measured the space too see how much room you have to work with?


----------



## jefferzbooboo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0451*
> 
> Have you measured the space too see how much room you have to work with?


I was asking because I haven't seen a place yet that tells how much of a fitting will stick out when threaded in. For example, if a fitting is 2" long, how much of that threads into the pump and how much sticks out.
I figured it was best to ask in this thread, since I thought it was more case related than water cooling related, if someone used a 250mm and was going to ask questions from there.
Sorry for being newb


----------



## geriatricpollywog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jefferzbooboo*
> 
> I was asking because I haven't seen a place yet that tells how much of a fitting will stick out when threaded in. For example, if a fitting is 2" long, how much of that threads into the pump and how much sticks out.
> I figured it was best to ask in this thread, since I thought it was more case related than water cooling related, if someone used a 250mm and was going to ask questions from there.
> Sorry for being newb


This is with a 170. It looks tight, but might work with a 120mm fan.

https://linustechtips.com/main/topic/188549-phanteks-enthoo-pro-liquid-cooling-build/


----------



## jefferzbooboo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0451*
> 
> This is with a 170. It looks tight, but might work with a 120mm fan.
> 
> https://linustechtips.com/main/topic/188549-phanteks-enthoo-pro-liquid-cooling-build/


That's one of the ones I seen when looking and I like that look, it's just hard to judge if there's enough space for another 3" just by looking at a picture.


----------



## geriatricpollywog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jefferzbooboo*
> 
> That's one of the ones I seen when looking and I like that look, it's just hard to judge if there's enough space for another 3" just by looking at a picture.




Cut around red line and mount the res inside.


----------



## jefferzbooboo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0451*
> 
> 
> 
> Cut around red line and mount the res inside.


I've already removed that piece and don't want to put it back in.


----------



## Kajel

Thanks to the folks at MNPCTECH - love this front panel


----------



## sterik01

Just got my new case. Absolutely loving the tempered glass.







My temps even dropped a bit. Ran stress test and barely saw it rise over 55 degrees.


----------



## geriatricpollywog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sterik01*
> 
> Just got my new case. Absolutely loving the tempered glass.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My temps even dropped a bit. Ran stress test and barely saw it rise over 55 degrees.


Looks nice in black. Post some inside pics


----------



## Sorphius

Hi folks! I'm thinking of using the Evolv ITX for an upcoming build, but since I'm going to be doing a hardline loop I'd like to get a few exact measurements to make sure that I can fit the components I want to use. So before I bite the bullet I'm hoping someone here who owns the case can spare a few minutes to humor me:



1. Floor to Midplate
2. Bracket Height
3. Bracket Depth*
4. Bracket Width*
5. Bracket to Ceiling*
6. Edge to front 120mm Fan Mount

Thanks in advance!

*Need these to the millimeter if possible


----------



## TheAbyss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0451*
> 
> 
> 
> Cut around red line and mount the res inside.


That´s what I did too, mounted the res on the front 240 rad and cut out a nice Little window just to display the res tube. I also cut through the drive bay so that the tubes can go straight down from the top res to the front res. My plan is to end up with a clean build without any unnecessary wiring or tubes visible.


----------



## geriatricpollywog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheAbyss*
> 
> That´s what I did too, mounted the res on the front 240 rad and cut out a nice Little window just to display the res tube.


pics


----------



## MrAgapiGC

Hi guys. Happy new year 2017.

I own a P400 case. and I did get one with a lot of QVC issues. but sending that is a pain. So I was thinking to paint that. How I can get the Phanteks crome logo out from the front cover? There is a way? Has anyone have change the window cover to a full acrylic panel? I am contacting Bill later today if he can make one with the hardware to mount it!


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrAgapiGC*
> 
> Hi guys. Happy new year 2017.
> 
> I own a P400 case. and I did get one with a lot of QVC issues. but sending that is a pain. So I was thinking to paint that. How I can get the Phanteks crome logo out from the front cover? There is a way? Has anyone have change the window cover to a full acrylic panel? I am contacting Bill later today if he can make one with the hardware to mount it!


Phanteks CS has been very good in addressing and issues with cases. i suggest you contact them first and give them the opportunity to replace and parts and/or panels that have issues. They have done this for many in the past while requiring only a copy of the invoice and photo of the affected parts.


----------



## MrAgapiGC

Hi ciarlatano, thanks for your reply. I know they have a super CS. the problem that I got is that 1. I am Panama (Central America), 2. these is the second case, plus 3 mobo that I purchase form the same vendor on a local store. odd. I do not want to deal with them. my first PC in 20 years, since I come from Mac, and it have being a cluster ..... making my pc work. At least know after 8 long months I have a working pc. Still waiting on my 2 RMA ASUS motherboard. So imagine my pain. I know they will send the order to them to exchange the case. but since these is a very budged oriented case, I can make it work with a PERFECT paint and and mod. is a good candidate. Once I see how to get that logo out, it will be better than before!.


----------



## Khr1s

Hi, is anyone here using a top 280 rad on an Evolv mAtx? Should I know something before I buy it? I am thinking to buy Corsair H115i or Bequiet! Loop 280.


----------



## Pedros

Hey Guys,

any idea if we can fit a EK Predator 360 in push/pull config, on the front of the Enthoo Evolv ATX tempered glass version?

One more thing, how limiting is in terms of airflow, that front panel? Very? Not Much?

Thank you all


----------



## Khr1s

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pedros*
> 
> Hey Guys,
> 
> any idea if we can fit a EK Predator 360 in push/pull config, on the front of the Enthoo Evolv ATX tempered glass version?
> 
> One more thing, how limiting is in terms of airflow, that front panel? Very? Not Much?
> 
> Thank you all


I don't know about the EK Predator, but I know from the mATX evolv that the airflow is limited at the top, the front panel hasn't got any problems from my experience.


----------



## Sazexa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Khr1s*
> 
> I don't know about the EK Predator, but I know from the mATX evolv that the airflow is limited at the top, the front panel hasn't got any problems from my experience.


I'd agree with this for the ATX TG. The front panel isn't as limiting as the top panel. A rear fan for airflow to exhaust air is definitely a good idea.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pedros*
> 
> Hey Guys,
> 
> any idea if we can fit a EK Predator 360 in push/pull config, on the front of the Enthoo Evolv ATX tempered glass version?
> 
> One more thing, how limiting is in terms of airflow, that front panel? Very? Not Much?
> 
> Thank you all


These links show front mounting of Predator 360 in Evolv ATX.
http://www.overclock.net/t/1566468/ek-predator-club-discussion-thread/1840_20#post_24551952
http://www.overclock.net/t/1566468/ek-predator-club-discussion-thread/1680_20#post_24536417

Front venting is not too bad. I experimented with spacing front out as well as running without front panel installed. Using 2x PH-F140SP fans spacing 10.5mm front panel out improved temps 2c, Removing panel was 3c better .. not a big deal in my book.

With a top radiator raising the top and blocking the unused holes in radiator mounting tray makes a big difference.
http://www.overclock.net/t/1418637/official-case-phanteks-case-club-for-lovers-owners/13240_20#post_25198233
http://www.overclock.net/t/1418637/official-case-phanteks-case-club-for-lovers-owners/13700_20#post_25268315


----------



## Andrew LB

Your diagram is great except that the circles are green, not orange.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Andrew LB*
> 
> Your diagram is great except that the circles are green, not orange.


----------



## Sazexa

Hopefully we get some news on th Enthoo Elite in the coming days of CES.


----------



## Dimensive

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sazexa*
> 
> Hopefully we get some news on th Enthoo Elite in the coming days of CES.


Little bit of info here: https://www.techpowerup.com/229309/phanteks-announces-the-enthoo-elite-chassis


----------



## doyll

*Enthoo Elite is officially released!*
Official release 05/01/2017 - 1300 GMT



Just say these videos about the Enthoo Elite


----------



## doyll

Very impressive!
IMG ALT=""]http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/2936763/width/800/height/1000[/IMG]







Rumor is this is the shipping case


It can now be preordered in Europe from Case King and OcUK .. Case King is saying March 10, 2017 approximate arrival.


----------



## capitaltpt

Hmm............I'm thinking they could knock at least $100 off the price if they got rid of the flight case which is just going to take up room in a closet.


----------



## xTesla1856

I have a feeling the Enthoo Elite is way too big for my needs. Besides, I'm in love with my Enthoo Luxe Tempered Glass anyway


----------



## paskowitz

Looks nice, but not for me. I like the front and top vent design. Particularly the front and how it integrates into the tempered glass. I hope that aesthetic caries over to other future Phanteks products.


----------



## doyll

I agree, it is a huge case .. way bigger than I want to use.

But it has some very nice features and design!

I still want it!.


----------



## smithydan

They certainly went all out on this one.


----------



## PureBlackFire

they need to shrink this design down to about 585mm x 600mm x 245mm (LxHxW), sell it for $200 and call it the Luxe 2.


----------



## smithydan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PureBlackFire*
> 
> they need to shrink this design down to about 585mm x 600mm x 245mm (LxHxW), sell it for $200 and call it the Luxe 2.


I accept your dream as a dream.


----------



## zoneuk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> I agree, it is a huge case .. way bigger than I want to use.
> 
> But it has some very nice features and design!
> 
> I still want it!.


Hopefully, The new feature may get imported into a new range of case,


----------



## Sazexa

Holy crap dat Elite. Is it available in silver? I might just order one ASAP.


----------



## smithydan

*Phanteks has made a vertical GPU mount... brilliant. Let's just hope the cable is great.*


----------



## paskowitz

How many of these do they plan on selling a year? A couple hundred would be my guess.


----------



## Chiobe

Is it just me or did Phanteks include 200-300$ worth of accessories with the case?
At least that what I feel most companies would have taken, if they where sold as extras.

Also, has anyone spotted a power splitter? Because I can only see 1 PSU mount, but the case is meant for 2 systems.


----------



## ireniqs

My new case:












I changed NZXT Phantom. I must say: Phanteks >>>> NZXT. Great case in every way. Love it. Next upgrade > water cooling.


----------



## paskowitz

Nice.


----------



## zoneuk

A few questions if anyone can help.

I have a phanteks primo and would like to know

1. What is the Best way to clean this case inside and out?

2. Can Phanteks RGB LED Strip used to replace the blue LED stip ?
if so how would I be able to select the colour ?


----------



## capitaltpt

I was a "maybe" on the elite at $699. $899 is just ridiculous. I can get a Case Labs SMA8 with all the accessories I need for cheaper. Maybe they'll come out with an updated Primo soon.


----------



## Chiobe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *capitaltpt*
> 
> I was a "maybe" on the elite at $699. $899 is just ridiculous. I can get a Case Labs SMA8 with all the accessories I need for cheaper. Maybe they'll come out with an updated Primo soon.


Subtract the accessories and we get $699, so its not that far off. They just decided to go with everything in 1 premium package.


----------



## Sazexa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *capitaltpt*
> 
> I was a "maybe" on the elite at $699. $899 is just ridiculous. I can get a Case Labs SMA8 with all the accessories I need for cheaper. Maybe they'll come out with an updated Primo soon.


Most of those accessories were included in the $699 price point at last year's CES.

The price isn't deferring me, it's the lack of a silver option. I waited since seeing the Project 916 at CES 2015, for this case to release. And I wanted it in silver. Why they wouldn't produce a silver version is beyond me.


----------



## CobraPlissken

No new or upgraded atx evolv? God damit. That elite isnt anything new at all if they tease 1year


----------



## krutoydiesel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> I have my HDDs (WD Black and HGST NAS... loud drivers) on the floor of my Evolv. I put sponge neoprene on the floor between the drives (which are in the plastic hot swap trays). Here is a link. With that stuff, there are no vibrations (humming or otherwise). I can hear the drive click, but there is nothing you can do about that. I also used the excess to add sound deadening to rest of my case (top/font panel, pump area, etc) to great effect.


How effective was this sponge neoprene for eliminating pump noise or hum?


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *krutoydiesel*
> 
> How effective was this sponge neoprene for eliminating pump noise or hum?


I ended up taking it off my pump because it looked bad, but it did make a slight difference. I would say if could completely cover the pump it would reduce noise by ~20%. Really it matters more how your pump is connected to a surface that what surrounds the surface of the pump. If you had the pump in some kind of contained box with the foam surrounding the inner layer of the box, that would probably totally silence it.


----------



## mrpurplehawk

Alright, RIP my Primo, I am buying this


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mrpurplehawk*
> 
> Alright, RIP my Primo, I am buying this
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Price is insane but omg that is an incredible case.


----------



## Sazexa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mrpurplehawk*
> 
> Alright, RIP my Primo, I am buying this


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rfarmer*
> 
> Price is insane but omg that is an incredible case.


Like I said before, if they made a silver version... I might just settle for the black.


----------



## doyll

@Sazexa, have you looked at the 'grey' color? It's almost a dark silver


----------



## Sazexa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> @Sazexa, have you looked at the 'grey' color? It's almost a dark silver


At first I thought it was silver in certain lighting in Hardware Canuck's video. I might just get it re-anodize it in silver. This place about 20 minutes from my home can re-anodize for relatively cheap.


----------



## PetrasSukys

Is it just me or that strip with Phanteks logo on glass panel (aligned with the internal floor) looks ugly as hell and serves no functional purpose....?

It seems that the quality and effort put into productions is epic, and the price seems high, but reasonable. I love that they have changed some stuff from Primo that bothered community...

Nevertheless, I don't feel the need to replace my Primo with this one. Maybe Primo was not designed to be replaced after 4 years (from start of production) in the first place







I bet that Elite is neither...


----------



## mrpurplehawk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PetrasSukys*
> 
> Is it just me or that strip with Phanteks logo on glass panel (aligned with the internal floor) looks ugly as hell and serves no functional purpose....?
> 
> It seems that the quality and effort put into productions is epic, and the price seems high, but reasonable. I love that they have changed some stuff from Primo that bothered community...
> 
> Nevertheless, I don't feel the need to replace my Primo with this one. Maybe Primo was not designed to be replaced after 4 years (from start of production) in the first place
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I bet that Elite is neither...


For the most part I agree, but I do have some minor lets call them "Not perfections" about my case but the Elite is just too beautiful for me not to want. It takes everything I love the most about my Primo and just amplifies it.


----------



## Sazexa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PetrasSukys*
> 
> Is it just me or that strip with Phanteks logo on glass panel (aligned with the internal floor) looks ugly as hell and serves no functional purpose....?
> 
> It seems that the quality and effort put into productions is epic, and the price seems high, but reasonable. I love that they have changed some stuff from Primo that bothered community...
> 
> Nevertheless, I don't feel the need to replace my Primo with this one. Maybe Primo was not designed to be replaced after 4 years (from start of production) in the first place
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I bet that Elite is neither...


It serves to split the case there. I like it.


----------



## AKBraves

Shot in the dark here, but has anybody with an original Luxe ordered the new TG Luxe? Is there any way to make the TG side panel fit on the original? I know the mounting is different but is it possible with some slight modding?


----------



## PetrasSukys

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sazexa*
> 
> It serves to split the case there. I like it.


The floor inside the case splits the case. The strip on the window apparently does nothing...


----------



## xTesla1856

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AKBraves*
> 
> Shot in the dark here, but has anybody with an original Luxe ordered the new TG Luxe? Is there any way to make the TG side panel fit on the original? I know the mounting is different but is it possible with some slight modding?


I did precisely what you asked: Had an OG black Luxe, and then I ordered a new dark grey Luxe TG. I was curious about the sidepanel mounting myself, but it is different. The Luxe TG has a swivel hinge back where the OG Luxe has thumbscrews. There are also differences at the front of the case, where the Luxe TG has a different mounting system using 2 thumbscrews that go directly to the front of the glass. I can take some pictures for you once I get home from work if you're interested. Just remind me to do so


----------



## Sazexa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PetrasSukys*
> 
> The floor inside the case splits the case. The strip on the window apparently does nothing...


Visually split it. It might have looked naked without it.

It does have ventilation holes in I believe


----------



## AKBraves

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xTesla1856*
> 
> I did precisely what you asked: Had an OG black Luxe, and then I ordered a new dark grey Luxe TG. I was curious about the sidepanel mounting myself, but it is different. The Luxe TG has a swivel hinge back where the OG Luxe has thumbscrews. There are also differences at the front of the case, where the Luxe TG has a different mounting system using 2 thumbscrews that go directly to the front of the glass. I can take some pictures for you once I get home from work if you're interested. Just remind me to do so


Thanks! I would be interested for sure if it's not too much trouble. Would it be possible to simply drill screw holes for the new thumbscrews in the OG frame or do they not line up at all?


----------



## capitaltpt

While the elite looks beautiful and is seemingly well thought out, the big thing, besides the price, that bugs me is that if you use the 5.25" mount on the sides as pictured, it looks to kill the ability to use 480mm on the top AND front as well as potentially the reservoir mount. Had this simply been an adapter for used with the front panel, you only limit your use of the front for radiators.


----------



## Pedros

I'm in the fence of getting a Enthoo TG but that "rear panel" that should hide the cables being tempered glass ... is making my mind go crazy ... :x

Anyone of you guys have the same feeling about having tempered glass on an area that should be hidden?


----------



## scracy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pedros*
> 
> I'm in the fence of getting a Enthoo TG but that "rear panel" that should hide the cables being tempered glass ... is making my mind go crazy ... :x
> 
> Anyone of you guys have the same feeling about having tempered glass on an area that should be hidden?


Yeah Aluminium would have been preferable but mine is under the desk so I don't see it...you could stick black vinyl wrap on the inside of the glass on the rear panel if it really bothers you


----------



## EvFan123

Is that the mATX version of the Evolv in tempered glass?


----------



## Sazexa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EvFan123*
> 
> 
> 
> Is that the mATX version of the Evolv in tempered glass?


On the left side? It seems to be by proportion of height to depth


----------



## Khr1s

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EvFan123*
> 
> 
> 
> Is that the mATX version of the Evolv in tempered glass?


If it is it is completely updated. It has power button on top.

I really want a tempered glass left side panel for my mATX Evolv


----------



## EvFan123

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sazexa*
> 
> On the left side? It seems to be by proportion of height to depth


Yep


----------



## CobraPlissken

Is this an Update for this cases standing there? I need to know if the evolv atx got some update. Looks almost like their just standing there so its not an empty table :s.


----------



## xTesla1856

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AKBraves*
> 
> Thanks! I would be interested for sure if it's not too much trouble. Would it be possible to simply drill screw holes for the new thumbscrews in the OG frame or do they not line up at all?


Excuse the belated reply, I had a long night yesterday







Anyway, here are some pictures of the mounting mechanisms for the glass panel on the Luxe TG:


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!











Keep in mind that the inside of the case is lined in felt to protect the glass panel and that there is a little spring loaded nub in the front part of the case that makes the glass panel pop out when you remove the 2 flat thumbscrews. Modding a regular Luxe could be possible, I simply don't see the point of that much effort. Besides, Phanteks won't sell you the glass panel separately anyways


----------



## paskowitz

- Evolv mATX Tempered Glass with hinged side panels and blacked out back glass panel!
- New high end HTPC case with two sizes
- Seems like there is a new top panel design that is carrying over between models (Elite and now 217)

After watching this video I have the following thoughts...

1. Hinge TG side panels for all glass models (especially Evolv ATX)
2. Blacked out back side panel, like mATX, for all glass models
3. A redesigned, preferably modular, top panel for the Evolv series that has less air restriction than the current model. The new venting design on the Elite (modular option) and Project 217 (not modular option) would be a good option.
4. More spacing option on the front radiator/fan brackets on the Evolv/Pro/etc. By this I mean sliding mounts for the front like the top removable bracket.
5. Better EATX support for the Evolv and Pro series.
6. Elite series SSD covers in front chamber on other models.
7. Side mount GPU option for Evolv/Pro models
8. Modular front panels for Enthoo line (ability to swap out front I/O on older models with newer ports)
9. White as a case color (with a white inside if possible)


----------



## boredgunner

I want a blacked out right side panel like that for my Evolv ATX TG.


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *boredgunner*
> 
> I want a blacked out right side panel like that for my Evolv ATX TG.


----------



## xTesla1856

They should just do a regular metal rear side panel like they did on the Enthoo Luxe TG. Ah, I just love that case


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xTesla1856*
> 
> They should just do a regular metal rear side panel like they did on the Enthoo Luxe TG. Ah, I just love that case


IMO there is an aesthetic argument to be made for having both sides glass, uniformity and such. I think the blacked out back side is a step in the right direction, but really the ideal solution would be a semi opaque smoked back that just hints at the internal components but doesn't show anything clearly.


----------



## xTesla1856

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> IMO there is an aesthetic argument to be made for having both sides glass, uniformity and such. I think the blacked out back side is a step in the right direction, but really the ideal solution would be a semi opaque smoked back that just hints at the internal components but doesn't show anything clearly.


I see where you're coming from, but in my case the rear panel is facing a wall or a corner at all times.


----------



## geriatricpollywog

Quick question. I am at Microcenter and I need to buy fan splitters to run a total of 8 ML140 fans on my Evolv ATX. How many do I need?


----------



## PetrasSukys

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0451*
> 
> Quick question. I am at Microcenter and I need to buy fan splitters to run a total of 8 ML140 fans on my Evolv ATX. How many do I need?


Fan splitters or hubs? Phantels Hub supports up to 11 fans and has two splitters included. But since ML140 is PWM, i assume you want something else... please add more details


----------



## geriatricpollywog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PetrasSukys*
> 
> Fan splitters or hubs? Phantels Hub supports up to 11 fans and has two splitters included. But since ML140 is PWM, i assume you want something else... please add more details


I want all fans running at the same speed but I want the speed to be controlled automatically based on CPU temp.


----------



## PetrasSukys

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0451*
> 
> I want all fans running at the same speed but I want the speed to be controlled automatically based on CPU temp.


Not sure if you will find it, but something like this:

https://www.amazon.com/Phobya-4-Pin-Splitter-Power-Eight/dp/B00OD7MO6E

Would probably serve you the best. This specific model has combined cable so that you can connect it to power supply directly and do not draw power from motherboard (and you should not try to power 8 fans from single motherboard header)


----------



## geriatricpollywog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PetrasSukys*
> 
> Not sure if you will find it, but something like this:
> 
> https://www.amazon.com/Phobya-4-Pin-Splitter-Power-Eight/dp/B00OD7MO6E
> 
> Would probably serve you the best. This specific model has combined cable so that you can connect it to power supply directly and do not draw power from motherboard (and you should not try to power 8 fans from single motherboard header)


Thanks! I found this



Rep


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0451*
> 
> Quick question. I am at Microcenter and I need to buy fan splitters to run a total of 8 ML140 fans on my Evolv ATX. How many do I need?


You need 2. The hub in the case has six fan connectors.

And you need five Panteks F140SP and to return those sailboat fans. Lol


----------



## Gilles3000

The Project 217 and Project 217S looks absolutely stunning, loving the low desktop footprint.

Images:
217:


217S:

Source

And not sure if this is legit, but if so: **throws money at screen**
Quote:


> Et les tarifs ? Du Phanteks pourrions-nous dire : 129USD et 99USD
> 
> Rough translation:
> And the prices? Phanteks allowed us to say: $129 and $99 respectively.


Source


----------



## prava

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> - Evolv mATX Tempered Glass with hinged side panels and blacked out back glass panel!
> - New high end HTPC case with two sizes
> - Seems like there is a new top panel design that is carrying over between models (Elite and now 217)
> 
> After watching this video I have the following thoughts...
> 
> 1. Hinge TG side panels for all glass models (especially Evolv ATX)
> 2. Blacked out back side panel, like mATX, for all glass models
> 3. A redesigned, preferably modular, top panel for the Evolv series that has less air restriction than the current model. The new venting design on the Elite (modular option) and Project 217 (not modular option) would be a good option.
> 4. More spacing option on the front radiator/fan brackets on the Evolv/Pro/etc. By this I mean sliding mounts for the front like the top removable bracket.
> 5. Better EATX support for the Evolv and Pro series.
> 6. Elite series SSD covers in front chamber on other models.
> 7. Side mount GPU option for Evolv/Pro models
> 8. Modular front panels for Enthoo line (ability to swap out front I/O on older models with newer ports)
> 9. White as a case color (with a white inside if possible)


You are missing the biggest change of them all!

The NEW Evolv mATX is exactly an ATX but sized-down, instead of what was before. So, it is completely different. I don't think they share anything at all.


----------



## Khr1s

I really hope that I can buy the tempered glass panel for my original Evolv mATx and I can fit it without modifications! Pleaseee Phanteks!

Also please be available with white frame


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *prava*
> 
> You are missing the biggest change of them all!
> 
> The NEW Evolv mATX is exactly an ATX but sized-down, instead of what was before. So, it is completely different. I don't think they share anything at all.


Good point.


----------



## doyll

I'm getting close to needing a new home theater system .. actually screen and control system. I think my Klipsch ProMedia 5.1 is a good enough sound system for my needs. 217 would do it nicely


----------



## Testing12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0451*
> 
> Quick question. I am at Microcenter and I need to buy fan splitters to run a total of 8 ML140 fans on my Evolv ATX. How many do I need?


Quick question. Why doesn't Micro Center sell Phanteks products?


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Testing12*
> 
> Quick question. Why doesn't Micro Center sell Phanteks products?


Quick answer. Because Micro Center is not a Phanteks dealer. Probably because they didn't try to become a Phanteks dealer. Why don't you ask Micro Center?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0451*
> 
> Quick question. I am at Microcenter and I need to buy fan splitters to run a total of 8 ML140 fans on my Evolv ATX. How many do I need?


What ciarlatano said.








PH-F140SP with Phanteks fan hub or PH-F140XP with a PWM fan hub will cost much less money and probably do a better job of cooling with at least as good noise levels.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Quick answer. Because Micro Center is not a Phanteks dealer. Probably because they didn't try to become a Phanteks dealer. Why don't you ask Micro Center?
> 
> What ciarlatano said.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> PH-F140SP with Phanteks fan hub or PH-F140XP with a PWM fan hub will cost much less money and probably do a better job of cooling with at least as good noise levels.


He already has the hub, it comes with the EVOLV ATX.

Not sure why people always assume that changing to a "different" fan means a "better" fan. In the case of the EVOLV ATX, it is almost always a downgrade, and at best a waste of money to do a sidegrade. Spending $160 on eight ML140 to have _at best_ the same results as spending $75 on five F140SP is.....well....


----------



## BinaryBummer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> I'm getting close to needing a new home theater system .. actually screen and control system. I think my Klipsch ProMedia 5.1 is a good enough sound system for my needs. 217 would do it nicely


I had the 5.1's way back in the early days. I kept them till something went in the amplifier and I gave away the speaker to a band that needed something in the RV to cut there cost. I had really got some use out of them to.

I am ready to get back to a regular hifi system if life permits it. I think that the high end Logitechs sound better for hifi but Klipsch were always called Loud Speakers no hifi speakers. They always had a flat sound response rather then the shimmering highs and all.

Shame that Klipsch stopped making the 5.1's.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BinaryBummer*
> 
> I had the 5.1's way back in the early days. I kept them till something went in the amplifier and I gave away the speaker to a band that needed something in the RV to cut there cost. I had really got some use out of them to.
> 
> I am ready to get back to a regular hifi system if life permits it. I think that the high end Logitechs sound better for hifi but Klipsch were always called Loud Speakers no hifi speakers. They always had a flat sound response rather then the shimmering highs and all.
> 
> Shame that Klipsch stopped making the 5.1's.


Their amps were the weak link, but there is a guy in USA who rebuild the amps .. still is as far as I know and adds a cooling fan too. He rebuilt mine like 8+ years ago and it's still going strong.. except I need to change the funky RCA stereo input jacks as have a skewer stick springing the cables to keep them from humming.

My 'theater' room is only 10x12' .. meaning I don't need any more power / dB, so no need to change. I agree, Klipsch made (probably still do) to quality audiophile systems. The only 'audiophile' quality computer systems were the Promedia 5.1 and Promedia 5.1 Ultra .. the Promedia 2.1 were OK, but not powerful enough for me ..or not surround sound either .. and their Promedia GMX were garbage.

There were a few other very good computer bi-amplified surround sound systems still available 3-5 years ago, but I haven't kept up.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BinaryBummer*
> 
> I had the 5.1's way back in the early days. I kept them till something went in the amplifier and I gave away the speaker to a band that needed something in the RV to cut there cost. I had really got some use out of them to.
> 
> I am ready to get back to a regular hifi system if life permits it. I think that the high end Logitechs sound better for hifi but Klipsch were always called Loud Speakers no hifi speakers. They always had a flat sound response rather then the shimmering highs and all.
> 
> Shame that Klipsch stopped making the 5.1's.


Are you really comparing Logitech to a high end esoteric audio manufacturer? And saying that flat frequency response is *bad* thing? The very thing that high end audio strives for?









BTW, as for those shimmering highs......you realize that Klipsch are renowned for their tweeters having incredible detail and accuracy. The only complaint you will ever hear from actual audiophiles is that they at times run a little _too_ bright. The effect you are referring to is aural excitement, which is cute for a few minutes of listening but then causes horrible listener fatigue.

I still believe the world went deaf the day the .mp3 was invented. Now everyone thinks "hifi" means terribly scooped with absolutely no transparency and complete lack of soundstage. Thank God vinyl is making a comeback, and people are hearing high end audio and saying "oh...wait....that _does_ sound much better!!!!".


----------



## scracy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Are you really comparing Logitech to a high end esoteric audio manufacturer? And saying that flat frequency response is *bad* thing? The very thing that high end audio strives for?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> BTW, as for those shimmering highs......you realize that Klipsch are renowned for their tweeters having incredible detail and accuracy. The only complaint you will ever hear from actual audiophiles is that they at times run a little _too_ bright. The effect you are referring to is aural excitement, which is cute for a few minutes of listening but then causes horrible listener fatigue.
> 
> I still believe the world went deaf the day the .mp3 was invented. Now everyone thinks "hifi" means terribly scooped with absolutely no transparency and complete lack of soundstage. Thank God vinyl is making a comeback, and people are hearing high end audio and saying "oh...wait....that _does_ sound much better!!!!".


I could not agree more loving FLAC







no equalisers etc good audiophile equipment doesn't need any form of tone control.


----------



## smithydan

Really liking the new mATX evolv though. Just hoping 280 rad support in front.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Are you really comparing Logitech to a high end esoteric audio manufacturer? And saying that flat frequency response is *bad* thing? The very thing that high end audio strives for?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> BTW, as for those shimmering highs......you realize that Klipsch are renowned for their tweeters having incredible detail and accuracy. The only complaint you will ever hear from actual audiophiles is that they at times run a little _too_ bright. The effect you are referring to is aural excitement, which is cute for a few minutes of listening but then causes horrible listener fatigue.
> 
> I still believe the world went deaf the day the .mp3 was invented. Now everyone thinks "hifi" means terribly scooped with absolutely no transparency and complete lack of soundstage. Thank God vinyl is making a comeback, and people are hearing high end audio and saying "oh...wait....that _does_ sound much better!!!!".


Maybe BinaryBummer's reference to "shimmering highs" was like the 'shimmer' in a desert mirage.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *scracy*
> 
> I could not agree more loving FLAC
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> no equalisers etc good audiophile equipment doesn't need any form of tone control.


None would be needed if and only if your listening environment is identical to the the source recording environment environment .. with speakers of appropriate sound range to match each sound source being placed exactly where each sound sourse was when recorded. Me thinks that is not very likely to happen.









Therefore some equalizing is required to get our listening environments to match the recording environments.


----------



## scracy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Maybe BinaryBummer's reference to "shimmering highs" was like the 'shimmer' in a desert mirage.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> None would be needed if and only if your listening environment is identical to the the source recording environment environment .. with speakers of appropriate sound range to match each sound source being placed exactly where each sound sourse was when recorded. Me thinks that is not very likely to happen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Therefore some equalizing is required to get our listening environments to match the recording environments.


Agreed but I was commenting more from a headphone point of view rather than a speaker environment, Im very partial FiiO portable DAP's and Audio Technica ATH-M50X/MSR-7 headphones as opposed to that overbloated bass beats stuff. One the reasons why I still have a Creative SoundBlaster Z sound card, it's still better than onboard audio IMO.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *scracy*
> 
> Agreed but I was commenting more from a headphone point of view rather than a speaker environment, Im very partial FiiO portable DAP's and Audio Technica ATH-M50X/MSR-7 headphones as opposed to that overbloate
> I understand what you are saying. Thing is I have found many recording over the years from vinyl to real to real masters that were not 'flat' compared to actually listening to performance as it was recorded .. even when setting directly in front of control booth in middle of audience. So even if headphone are perfectly 'flat' there can be 'adjustments' needed.


----------



## geriatricpollywog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> He already has the hub, it comes with the EVOLV ATX.
> 
> Not sure why people always assume that changing to a "different" fan means a "better" fan. In the case of the EVOLV ATX, it is almost always a downgrade, and at best a waste of money to do a sidegrade. Spending $160 on eight ML140 to have _at best_ the same results as spending $75 on five F140SP is.....well....


The Phanteks fans are useless because I need to use small screws for fan-rad-fan-rad and the F140SP have long screw tubes that only accomodate long screws.

The F140SP is also locked at one speed (unless I am totally missing something). I need my fans to automatically speed up and down based on temperature. If I am gaming, I am probably wearing a headset and I won't notice the extra fan noise. If Ibam browsing the web, I want my fans to be quiet.

So why did I pay double and buy the shippy ship fans over the EK Vardar or Phanteks PWM?

They got good performance marks on Thermal Bench and they look fantastic.

Also, ships are for ballers.


----------



## geriatricpollywog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Are you really comparing Logitech to a high end esoteric audio manufacturer? And saying that flat frequency response is *bad* thing? The very thing that high end audio strives for?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> BTW, as for those shimmering highs......you realize that Klipsch are renowned for their tweeters having incredible detail and accuracy. The only complaint you will ever hear from actual audiophiles is that they at times run a little _too_ bright. The effect you are referring to is aural excitement, which is cute for a few minutes of listening but then causes horrible listener fatigue.
> 
> I still believe the world went deaf the day the .mp3 was invented. Now everyone thinks "hifi" means terribly scooped with absolutely no transparency and complete lack of soundstage. Thank God vinyl is making a comeback, and people are hearing high end audio and saying "oh...wait....that _does_ sound much better!!!!".


Vinyl is making a comeback for sure.

For hipsters.

My friend from high school was the first person in school to get an iPod.

Now she DJs and prefers the sound of vinyl.

I can only hear up to 12,000khz so I don't mind the low frequency rewponse of vinyl compared to digital.

But 320khz MP3 does sound much better than 128khz. The absolute worst in sound quality is Sattelite radio.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0451*
> 
> The Phanteks fans are useless because I need to use small screws for fan-rad-fan-rad and the F140SP have long screw tubes that only accomodate long screws.
> 
> The F140SP is also locked at one speed (unless I am totally missing something). I need my fans to automatically speed up and down based on temperature. If I am gaming, I am probably wearing a headset and I won't notice the extra fan noise. If Ibam browsing the web, I want my fans to be quiet.
> 
> So why did I pay double and buy the shippy ship fans over the EK Vardar or Phanteks PWM?
> 
> They got good performance marks on Thermal Bench and they look fantastic.
> 
> Also, ships are for ballers.


The F140SP is voltage regulated with an incredibly wide rpm range.

Ships are for sheep.

But I guess "ballers" works, too. They way overpay for a brand name with no regard to quality.


----------



## geriatricpollywog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> The F140SP is voltage regulated with an incredibly wide rpm range.
> 
> Ships are for sheep.
> 
> But I guess "ballers" works, too. They way overpay for a brand name with no regard to quality.


I guess they don't have that indie appeal but they seem to perform well.


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0451*
> 
> I guess they don't have that indie appeal but they seem to perform well.


They were terrible in terms of price/performance at launch. But prices have come down, so now they're alright. The Vardars, NB eloops and BQ SW3's are still better choices imo.


----------



## Nauticle

What would be the best way to mount a fan onto the back of the ODD cage (to cool HDDs) in my Enthoo Pro? Also would it be bad to have the ODD fan be too close to the first fan on my NH-D14? Thanks.


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nauticle*
> 
> What would be the best way to mount a fan onto the back of the ODD cage (to cool HDDs) in my Enthoo Pro? Also would it be bad to have the ODD fan be too close to the first fan on my NH-D14? Thanks.


Do you HDD's really need active cooling?

Anyway, just placing a fan in the ODD bay wouldn't do much I'm afraid, unless you want to replace the front bay covers with mesh covers and seal the fan to the back of the odd, you'd have to cut a thick foam rectangle in the shape of your odd bay and then cut the shape of your fan out of it. That way it should all just fiction fit into place and make a pretty decent seal.

Shouldn't be any harm for your NH-D14, if anything it would give you a bit more airflow.


----------



## Nauticle

Unless they are defective, they need active cooling as they reached 50C just being idle. I could switch some drives around to see if that helps. Aside from what you said my other option would be to go for a cage of some sort right?.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nauticle*
> 
> Unless they are defective, they need active cooling as they reached 50C just being idle. I could switch some drives around to see if that helps. Aside from what you said my other option would be to go for a cage of some sort right?.


I doubt they are defective. HDD generally don't need a lot of airflow but they do need some to flow the heat they transfer into their surroundings away from them and give give more cool air to heat up.


----------



## ironhide138

Anyone know where to find more info about the TG mATX evolv aside from thst one video?


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nauticle*
> 
> Aside from what you said my other option would be to go for a cage of some sort right?.


A cage is definitely an option, although not a cheap one. Depending on how many HDD's you have they can easily range from $40-120. So depends on what matters most to you your time or your money.


----------



## TheAbyss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gilles3000*
> 
> They were terrible in terms of price/performance at launch. But prices have come down, so now they're alright. The Vardars, NB eloops and BQ SW3's are still better choices imo.


I agree for the Vardar´s and Eloops, but I´d choose a F140SP on a rad over a BQ SW3. In case of a purely case fan usage, BQ SW3 are superior to the phanteks fans. My setup in a Luxe consists (on paper, build unfinished) on eloops as rear case fan and front radiator fan. Top rad will be push/pull with thermaltake Riing 14 RGB and Noctua iPPC 2000 PWM. If the noise Level get´s too high, I´ll reconfigure to eloops for the top also. I know that I still owe some pics of my modded Luxe sidepanel and drive cage, but I´d like to postpone this until I think it´s worth sharing.


----------



## redshoulder

I have white matx evolv and it looks like I might be able to replace the current left panel with TG panel and attach magnet to case.


----------



## Khr1s

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *redshoulder*
> 
> I have white matx evolv and it looks like I might be able to replace the current left panel with TG panel and attach magnet to case.


Do you think that we will be able to purchase it for our original matx evolv ? It looks sexy as hell.


----------



## Awesomeguy10578

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Khr1s*
> 
> Do you think that we will be able to purchase it for our original matx evolv ? It looks sexy as hell.


Man I want it too but I dont think its compatible being it has a revised frame and all? Or am I missing something?


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheAbyss*
> 
> I agree for the Vardar´s and Eloops, but I´d choose a F140SP on a rad over a BQ SW3. In case of a purely case fan usage, BQ SW3 are superior to the phanteks fans. My setup in a Luxe consists (on paper, build unfinished) on eloops as rear case fan and front radiator fan. Top rad will be push/pull with thermaltake Riing 14 RGB and Noctua iPPC 2000 PWM. If the noise Level get´s too high, I´ll reconfigure to eloops for the top also. I know that I still owe some pics of my modded Luxe sidepanel and drive cage, but I´d like to postpone this until I think it´s worth sharing.


You know the 140mm SW3 are far more radiator optimized than the SW2's were right? They push a lot of air trough a radiator especially at lower RPM's. I don't have have any comparisons against the F140SP's, but they're better than the 140MP's across the board. The SW3's are up there with the best low RPM rad fans really.


----------



## xTesla1856

The new black Phanteks Premium fans included with the Enthoo Luxe TG are miles better and quieter than the old white ones included with the OG Luxe. With 3x140mm Phanteks Pro and 3x 120mm Vardars, I can barely tell if my rig is even turned on, if it wasn't for the LED's on my motherboard. Overall, I'm very happy with the new fans. As for Silent Wings, my experience with them wasn't stellar either, as I had to replace 2 fans within half a year due to loud bearing noise (apparently a widespread issue). Those were Silent Wings 2 140mm.


----------



## smithydan




----------



## smithydan

pccasegear.com has the TG version for both the p400/s and Luxe


----------



## pigr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> - Evolv mATX Tempered Glass with hinged side panels and blacked out back glass panel!
> - New high end HTPC case with two sizes
> - Seems like there is a new top panel design that is carrying over between models (Elite and now 217)
> 
> After watching this video I have the following thoughts...
> 
> 1. Hinge TG side panels for all glass models (especially Evolv ATX)
> 2. Blacked out back side panel, like mATX, for all glass models
> 3. A redesigned, preferably modular, top panel for the Evolv series that has less air restriction than the current model. The new venting design on the Elite (modular option) and Project 217 (not modular option) would be a good option.
> 4. More spacing option on the front radiator/fan brackets on the Evolv/Pro/etc. By this I mean sliding mounts for the front like the top removable bracket.
> 5. Better EATX support for the Evolv and Pro series.
> 6. Elite series SSD covers in front chamber on other models.
> 7. Side mount GPU option for Evolv/Pro models
> 8. Modular front panels for Enthoo line (ability to swap out front I/O on older models with newer ports)
> 9. White as a case color (with a white inside if possible)


that ruins all my plans for the new project.. i have to wait until it's released now.

anyone knows any other detail about the Evolv mATX TG?


----------



## redshoulder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Awesomeguy10578*
> 
> Man I want it too but I dont think its compatible being it has a revised frame and all? Or am I missing something?


Hard to say without confirmation from manufacturer but assuming the hinge locations are the same the left panel should fit,but you would have to add magnet to current case.
The right panel will not work because of usb ports and power switch.


----------



## Awesomeguy10578

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *redshoulder*
> 
> Hard to say without confirmation from manufacturer but assuming the hinge locations are the same the left panel should fit,but you would have to add magnet to current case.
> The right panel will not work because of usb ports and power switch.


Yea not like Id want a TG right side anyways. Maybe I'll wait till someone tests it out first


----------



## Nauticle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gilles3000*
> 
> A cage is definitely an option, although not a cheap one. Depending on how many HDD's you have they can easily range from $40-120. So depends on what matters most to you your time or your money.


Do you have any recommendations for hot swap bays or cages?


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nauticle*
> 
> Do you have any recommendations for hot swap bays or cages?


Not particularly, I'd say get one with at least the amount of sleds you need and preferably 1 bigger fan rather than multiple small ones.

Other than that, I'm not that knowledgeable about them and they tend to differentiate in brands a lot depending on where you are in the world.


----------



## prava

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ironhide138*
> 
> Anyone know where to find more info about the TG mATX evolv aside from thst one video?


There isn't. This is the first time we have seen the case. You better be patient.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *redshoulder*
> 
> I have white matx evolv and it looks like I might be able to replace the current left panel with TG panel and attach magnet to case.


I doubt it. In fact, I'd bet real money that this wasn't the case. The case is completely different.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Khr1s*
> 
> Do you think that we will be able to purchase it for our original matx evolv ? It looks sexy as hell.


Don't think it is compatible.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pigr8*
> 
> that ruins all my plans for the new project.. i have to wait until it's released now.
> 
> anyone knows any other detail about the Evolv mATX TG?


This Evolv mATX is simplyl an ATX but smaller in size. Which makes sense because the ATX was superior to the current mATX, imo.


----------



## pez

You guys could email Phanteks Support







. They were pretty quick to respond when I was asking about the TG panel for the Pro M before.


----------



## eXistencelies

Well just found this thread. Have owned my Evolv TG since July. Here is my build https://pcpartpicker.com/b/qmd6Mp. I now would like to modify the front and top panel for better airflow. Now I just need to find a good CNC shop that doesn't cost $150 lol. I like that one guys design where he had a buddy who had a CNC machine. Looks factory and well done.


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eXistencelies*
> 
> Well just found this thread. Have owned my Evolv TG since July. Here is my build https://pcpartpicker.com/b/qmd6Mp. I now would like to modify the front and top panel for better airflow. Now I just need to find a good CNC shop that doesn't cost $150 lol. I like that one guys design where he had a buddy who had a CNC machine. Looks factory and well done.


I remember your build from PCPP... simply gorgeous.

Many of us, myself included are in the same boat in regards to CNC. But before you go down that path make sure you try the following:

Rest the top panel on the clips (IE don't press it all the way down, locking it in place, just rest it)
Add spacing to the front panel by buying longer screws and some washers for the front clip assembly
Finally, as should be gospel for custom loop Evolv owners, make sure to seal off any open space in the top radiator bracket. If you modded the top then you will have to get a little more creative and block off any open space.

All of this should significantly reduce your temps.

Other than that, you can email Phanteks so they are away that it isn't just a handful of people who perceive this to be an issue.


----------



## eXistencelies

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> I remember your build from PCPP... simply gorgeous.
> 
> Many of us, myself included are in the same boat in regards to CNC. But before you go down that path make sure you try the following:
> 
> Rest the top panel on the clips (IE don't press it all the way down, locking it in place, just rest it)
> Add spacing to the front panel by buying longer screws and some washers for the front clip assembly
> Finally, as should be gospel for custom loop Evolv owners, make sure to seal off any open space in the top radiator bracket. If you modded the top then you will have to get a little more creative and block off any open space.
> 
> All of this should significantly reduce your temps.
> 
> Other than that, you can email Phanteks so they are away that it isn't just a handful of people who perceive this to be an issue.


Thanks for the reply. Well reason being is I now have a 7700k setup in my build. Temps at 5GHz @ 1.310v were 87C with the side panel off on a 1 hour stress test from Realbench (which passed btw). I am picking up my delid kit for my chip today. So I will see how that works. Before on my old 4770k I would get max temps of 68C during stress test and that was only a 4.1GHz @ 1.200v overclock. I only game on my system which on the 4770k my cpu temps for gaming were 50-55C max depending on ambient temp. Now it is 65C which I am not a fan of. I have done the mod trick for the front panel to make it stick out further which seemed to help some. I don't have the radiator bracket. That was removed the day I got it lol. I also have both my front and top 360 rad setup as INTAKE and my rear fan is EXHAUST only. If I can get the CNC shop to do it for $50 or less I am down.


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eXistencelies*
> 
> Thanks for the reply. Well reason being is I now have a 7700k setup in my build. Temps at 5GHz @ 1.310v were 87C with the side panel off on a 1 hour stress test from Realbench (which passed btw). I am picking up my delid kit for my chip today. So I will see how that works. Before on my old 4770k I would get max temps of 68C during stress test and that was only a 4.1GHz @ 1.200v overclock. I only game on my system which on the 4770k my cpu temps for gaming were 50-55C max depending on ambient temp. Now it is 65C which I am not a fan of. I have done the mod trick for the front panel to make it stick out further which seemed to help some. I don't have the radiator bracket. That was removed the day I got it lol. I also have both my front and top 360 rad setup as INTAKE and my rear fan is EXHAUST only. If I can get the CNC shop to do it for $50 or less I am down.


I am personally not a fan of dual intake, but IDK with a modded top. My perspective is hot air should go up, cold air should come from below. If you have the spare time, try top rad exhaust, back fan intake.

I would still try to block any gaps in the top rad area. Black construction paper, neoprene, vinyl wrap, etc are all options. With all the air pressure in your main case chamber, I would be surprised if this didn't help reduce warm air circulation. Nature takes the path of least resistance. You could try setting your PSU fan up to act as additional exhaust fan (assuming current layout and PSU fan being on).

Also, don't forget about the usuals... bad TIM application, uneven CPU cold plate, uneven mounting, etc. Deliding will help for sure though. Remember to check out the delid thread here on OCN.


----------



## eXistencelies

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> I am personally not a fan of dual intake, but IDK with a modded top. My perspective is hot air should go up, cold air should come from below. If you have the spare time, try top rad exhaust, back fan intake.
> 
> I would still try to block any gaps in the top rad area. Black construction paper, neoprene, vinyl wrap, etc are all options. With all the air pressure in your main case chamber, I would be surprised if this didn't help reduce warm air circulation. Nature takes the path of least resistance. You could try setting your PSU fan up to act as additional exhaust fan (assuming current layout and PSU fan being on).
> 
> Also, don't forget about the usuals... bad TIM application, uneven CPU cold plate, uneven mounting, etc. Deliding will help for sure though. Remember to check out the delid thread here on OCN.


I had it as an exhaust at first. I reduced temps by 2C by making them into an intake. I don't like the idea of pushing heat through a rad. You want to pull cool air through it. Now I see what you are saying by blocking the top cavity off. Doing that will make sure no hot air gets back in the top cavity if the rear 140mm exhaust fan fails to exhaust all hot air. BTW it is three 120s up front and three 120s on top and the 140 out back. I am also in that delid thread already. Thanks.


----------



## kush621

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alex132*
> 
> I think you can buy spare parts - but the connectors will be your main issue. The TG model comes with 4 screws whereas the normal model has those cool hinge doors.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevininsimi*
> 
> Guys serious question:
> 
> Evolv tempered glass or non tempered glass?
> 
> Not a fan of the TG panels on both sides... That's my main turn off.


I got the non TG version, then took off the acrylic and replaced it with a sheet of tempered glass that I got online. I too did not care for the glass side panel on the right side and i'm not the biggest fan of the ENTIRE left side being glass.


----------



## daywalk3r314

Hi guys,

i'm looking for some advice before buying a new case.
i've got a watercooled system with:
- a 360mm with Noctua fans and looking to move this over to the front, maybe place in a 240mm to the top.
- 2 1080GTX on water
- Intel 6600K on water

Idle i have now 35 celsius ,and 60 on load - which is not bad. main problem is that i have an old Corsair Obsidian 800D where all my HDD hotswap doesnt work.
So all my SSD are just thrown in the case.
and i got to see now that it's to huge of case









So mainly im looking for a case that can support the parts mention above. and have a smaller case.
Maybe place in a 240mm afterwards

The main case i've been looking at is the Evolv ATX,
I have been reading alot of your post on heat problems because of reduced airflow in the top and front?
some radiator will ending up hitting the mobo/ram becuase of height problems?
And theirt is some modification you can do to reduce this with extended screws in front.
I would like have a case i dont need to do structural engineering to fit all of my parts

are their any other cases you guys would recommend in the same size area as the Evolv ATX?
i'm also looking at the Fractal Design DEFINE R5 as an option


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *daywalk3r314*
> 
> Hi guys,
> 
> i'm looking for some advice before buying a new case.
> i've got a watercooled system with:
> - a 360mm with Noctua fans and looking to move this over to the front, maybe place in a 240mm to the top.
> - 2 1080GTX on water
> - Intel 6600K on water
> 
> Idle i have now 35 celsius ,and 60 on load - which is not bad. main problem is that i have an old Corsair Obsidian 800D where all my HDD hotswap doesnt work.
> So all my SSD are just thrown in the case.
> and i got to see now that it's to huge of case
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So mainly im looking for a case that can support the parts mention above. and have a smaller case.
> Maybe place in a 240mm afterwards
> 
> The main case i've been looking at is the Evolv ATX,
> I have been reading alot of your post on heat problems because of reduced airflow in the top and front?
> some radiator will ending up hitting the mobo/ram becuase of height problems?
> And theirt is some modification you can do to reduce this with extended screws in front.
> I would like have a case i dont need to do structural engineering to fit all of my parts
> 
> are their any other cases you guys would recommend in the same size area as the Evolv ATX?
> i'm also looking at the Fractal Design DEFINE R5 as an option


The main reason to get the Evolv is because it is just plain sexy. Up there with In Win and Lian Li.

IDK how many hard drives you have, but HDDs and radiators don't mix well in the Evolv (or any mid tower for that matter). SSDs aren't a problem (3+ stock locations plus DIY). If you have need storage space and radiator space, the Primo or Luxe (full towers) are better options.

If not, then the Evolv can work... but... with two 1080s you will want more than a single 360mm rad (IMO out of the gate). 280/360 would be my combo depending on...

Mobo ram clearance only becomes an issue if you put a 280 in the top AND have tall ram (Dominator, Avexir, etc) or plan on using VRM water cooling. 120mm type rads up top will pose no interference under any circumstance.

It all really depends on what parts you have or want to use. The Evolv doesn't fit everything but it can fit a lot with some effort. Usually it is either dual slim 360 rads or 240/280 and a 360 with one of them being fat the other slim. Let us know what you plan on using.

IMO, the Evolv is totally acceptable from a thermal POV when you do the things I listed above. Maybe something like X99 SLI Titans would push things beyond its capacity, but at that stage a full tower obviously makes more sense. I would also argue that it is quieter than open top competitors (Fractal Design, etc) when rads are installed. Don't forget, there are lots of other little things that can negatively impact thermals no matter the chassis (TIM application, improper block seating, etc).

The R5 is a great case. It has more room than the Evolv. It will likely require less effort to "get right". But... IMO it is rather pedestrian in appearance.

Finally, I would say don't just take my word for it.


----------



## BinaryBummer

My case is fine for what i am doing now, but I think the design of the cases should allow the motherboard to be positioned lower to allow for thicker and larger radiators to be mounted with room for push/pull fans that will clear the ATX power plugs and any other cables that route through being in the way.

Even if there is a significant gap they have made a cover for the PSU and cable area why not the same for the upper for aesthetics.

Right now i can't add pull fans since my fans will physically be on the connector leaving me to have to remove the top to mount them above.


----------



## redshoulder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pez*
> 
> You guys could email Phanteks Support
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . They were pretty quick to respond when I was asking about the TG panel for the Pro M before.


Emailed Phanteks regarding replacing current acrylic matx evolv panel with new TG panel, it should fit but will have to add magnet to case, response as below

"While the case looks the same, there have been slight changes to the front and side panel lines. The older aluminum side panels will fit on the hinges, however the closing mechanism locations are not present on the glass version and the side profile is slightly different."


----------



## pez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *redshoulder*
> 
> Emailed Phanteks regarding replacing current acrylic matx evolv panel with new TG panel, it should fit but will have to add magnet to case, response as below
> 
> "While the case looks the same, there have been slight changes to the front and side panel lines. The older aluminum side panels will fit on the hinges, however the closing mechanism locations are not present on the glass version and the side profile is slightly different."


Very nice find! I don't think adding a magnet will be too much of a pain







.


----------



## daywalk3r314

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> The main reason to get the Evolv is because it is just plain sexy. Up there with In Win and Lian Li.
> 
> IDK how many hard drives you have, but HDDs and radiators don't mix well in the Evolv (or any mid tower for that matter). SSDs aren't a problem (3+ stock locations plus DIY). If you have need storage space and radiator space, the Primo or Luxe (full towers) are better options.
> 
> If not, then the Evolv can work... but... with two 1080s you will want more than a single 360mm rad (IMO out of the gate). 280/360 would be my combo depending on...
> 
> Mobo ram clearance only becomes an issue if you put a 280 in the top AND have tall ram (Dominator, Avexir, etc) or plan on using VRM water cooling. 120mm type rads up top will pose no interference under any circumstance.
> 
> It all really depends on what parts you have or want to use. The Evolv doesn't fit everything but it can fit a lot with some effort. Usually it is either dual slim 360 rads or 240/280 and a 360 with one of them being fat the other slim. Let us know what you plan on using.
> 
> IMO, the Evolv is totally acceptable from a thermal POV when you do the things I listed above. Maybe something like X99 SLI Titans would push things beyond its capacity, but at that stage a full tower obviously makes more sense. I would also argue that it is quieter than open top competitors (Fractal Design, etc) when rads are installed. Don't forget, there are lots of other little things that can negatively impact thermals no matter the chassis (TIM application, improper block seating, etc).
> 
> The R5 is a great case. It has more room than the Evolv. It will likely require less effort to "get right". But... IMO it is rather pedestrian in appearance.
> 
> Finally, I would say don't just take my word for it.


the 360 radiator i'm running is a EK WEB 360XTX which is 64mm thick with noctua NF-F12 PWM fans which are 25mm.
i'll be running 3 HDD, and 5SSD, and Corsair Vengeance LPX ram.

if i i'm going to go 240/280 i'll be placing it on the top maybe a EK-CoolStream SE 240 which is 26mm with additional 25mm from fans.

now my main consern is heat. with the top vent and front vent not doing any good.
do you guys have any temps on load similar or near to my setup?


----------



## geriatricpollywog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> The main reason to get the Evolv is because it is just plain sexy. Up there with In Win and Lian Li.
> 
> IDK how many hard drives you have, but HDDs and radiators don't mix well in the Evolv (or any mid tower for that matter). SSDs aren't a problem (3+ stock locations plus DIY). If you have need storage space and radiator space, the Primo or Luxe (full towers) are better options.
> 
> If not, then the Evolv can work... but... with two 1080s you will want more than a single 360mm rad (IMO out of the gate). 280/360 would be my combo depending on...
> 
> Mobo ram clearance only becomes an issue if you put a 280 in the top AND have tall ram (Dominator, Avexir, etc) or plan on using VRM water cooling. 120mm type rads up top will pose no interference under any circumstance.
> 
> It all really depends on what parts you have or want to use. The Evolv doesn't fit everything but it can fit a lot with some effort. Usually it is either dual slim 360 rads or 240/280 and a 360 with one of them being fat the other slim. Let us know what you plan on using.
> 
> IMO, the Evolv is totally acceptable from a thermal POV when you do the things I listed above. Maybe something like X99 SLI Titans would push things beyond its capacity, but at that stage a full tower obviously makes more sense. I would also argue that it is quieter than open top competitors (Fractal Design, etc) when rads are installed. Don't forget, there are lots of other little things that can negatively impact thermals no matter the chassis (TIM application, improper block seating, etc).
> 
> The R5 is a great case. It has more room than the Evolv. It will likely require less effort to "get right". But... IMO it is rather pedestrian in appearance.
> 
> Finally, I would say don't just take my word for it.


I have 280 front, 280 top, 360 side, 140 rear (internal) and 140 rear (external).

But you are right, it takes effort.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *daywalk3r314*
> 
> the 360 radiator i'm running is a EK WEB 360XTX which is 64mm thick with noctua NF-F12 PWM fans which are 25mm.
> i'll be running 3 HDD, and 5SSD, and Corsair Vengeance LPX ram.
> 
> if i i'm going to go 240/280 i'll be placing it on the top maybe a EK-CoolStream SE 240 which is 26mm with additional 25mm from fans.
> 
> now my main consern is heat. with the top vent and front vent not doing any good.
> do you guys have any temps on load similar or near to my setup?


If your main concern is heat, than an EK SE series rad should not be in your plans. They are literally the worst performing rads on the market and an absolute waste of space.


----------



## geriatricpollywog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> and an absolute waste of space.




Ahem.

If there is one thing I love more than the Corsair brand, it's EK SE radiators.


----------



## Khr1s

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pez*
> 
> Very nice find! I don't think adding a magnet will be too much of a pain
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


Yes but I think that this is the way that they are telling us that the panel won't be sold seperately


----------



## kriz225

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0451*
> 
> 
> 
> Ahem.
> 
> If there is one thing I love more than the Corsair brand, it's EK SE radiators.


I don't know about a waste of space, but if you look up reviews you'll see they don't perform very favorably by comparison to other slim rads like the Black Ice series.

I have an EK 360 XE up front with a HL Black Ice 280GTS XFLOW up top and my temps are pretty cool, idling just a couple degrees over ambient.


----------



## geriatricpollywog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kriz225*
> 
> I don't know about a waste of space, but if you look up reviews you'll see they don't perform very favorably by comparison to other slim rads like the Black Ice series.
> 
> I have an EK 360 XE up front with a HL Black Ice 280GTS XFLOW up top and my temps are pretty cool, idling just a couple degrees over ambient.


I read 1 review (Thermal Bench) where the SE performed worse than an assortment of radiators of different thicknesses, but IIRC, it was also the slimmest in the group.

However, I have space in the back panel for a radiator of its exact dimensions. The SE is 25mm thick. If it were 26mm, it would not fit.

I also have a HWL 280 GTR, EK CE 280, and 2x 140mm Alphacool radiators. At worst, the SE does not improve my temps more than a fraction of a degree, but that doesn't matter because I put it there for looks.


----------



## .theMetal

*Question*: I'm thinking of drilling the rivets out and removing the psu cover in my Evolve ITX, anyone see any potential issues with structural integrity with the case or any other possible issues? I'm trying to get the graphics card a bit more breathing room, it sits pretty close to the cover, and I'm not using it for anything.



edit: added a bad picture


----------



## daywalk3r314

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> If your main concern is heat, than an EK SE series rad should not be in your plans. They are literally the worst performing rads on the market and an absolute waste of space.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0451*
> 
> may main concern is airflow from the top of the case and front. having one 140mm rear fan exhaust isnt gonna do much if i have both a 360 and a 240 and the airflow isnt moving anywhere.
> 
> that is why i ask you guys for some exprience you have with the case and watercooling.
> 
> I read 1 review (Thermal Bench) where the SE performed worse than an assortment of radiators of different thicknesses, but IIRC, it was also the slimmest in the group.
> 
> However, I have space in the back panel for a radiator of its exact dimensions. The SE is 25mm thick. If it were 26mm, it would not fit.
> 
> I also have a HWL 280 GTR, EK CE 280, and 2x 140mm Alphacool radiators. At worst, the SE does not improve my temps more than a fraction of a degree, but that doesn't matter because I put it there for looks.


haven't really read alot about the SE i fingered that i would be good, I really like the 360XTX that i have. To pull that much heat out of 2 1080 and cpu. i have in mind anyways if i end up with a Evolv or some other case that i'll have a second radiator.


----------



## eXistencelies

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *daywalk3r314*
> 
> haven't really read alot about the SE i fingered that i would be good, I really like the 360XTX that i have. To pull that much heat out of 2 1080 and cpu. i have in mind anyways if i end up with a Evolv or some other case that i'll have a second radiator.


The HL Nemesis 360 GTS rad was the best performing slim radiator. That is what I got for my Evolv. Well two of them that is.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *daywalk3r314*
> 
> haven't really read alot about the SE i fingered that i would be good, I really like the 360XTX that i have. To pull that much heat out of 2 1080 and cpu. i have in mind anyways if i end up with a Evolv or some other case that i'll have a second radiator.


Here's some more testing for you to look at. The rest of the EK line is quite good, the SE is awful - http://www.xtremerigs.net/2015/02/11/radiator-round-2015/5/

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0451*
> 
> At worst, the SE does not improve my temps more than a fraction of a degree, but that doesn't matter *because I put it there for looks.*


That goes without saying, which is why it doesn't apply to the concern of the original subject.


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *daywalk3r314*
> 
> the 360 radiator i'm running is a EK WEB 360XTX which is 64mm thick with noctua NF-F12 PWM fans which are 25mm.
> i'll be running 3 HDD, and 5SSD, and Corsair Vengeance LPX ram.
> 
> if i i'm going to go 240/280 i'll be placing it on the top maybe a EK-CoolStream SE 240 which is 26mm with additional 25mm from fans.
> 
> now my main consern is heat. with the top vent and front vent not doing any good.
> do you guys have any temps on load similar or near to my setup?


Yeah, I'll be strait with you. You want a bigger case. Full tower. Your situation is what they are built for. Even an R5 won't work for you. Getting 3 HDDs and 5 SSDs in the Evolv with dual rads will not be fun. IDK what your storage space requirements are, but other alternatives include, selling your HDDs SSDs and getting fewer, higher capacity ones. Or building a NAS and putting them in there (with 1-2 SSD and 1 HDD in the Evolv).

I second avoiding the EK SE line. I don't think I have seen a single positive comparison vs other rads. Either get the EK PE, CE or a Hardware Labs GTS (30mm) rad. But ultimately, you should be in the market for a different case or a different storage solution in addition to the Evolv.


----------



## Omie

Hi everyone,

So I'm finally going to be building my PC tomorrow.

Build: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/qDrVLD

I was wondering, does the Enthoo Luxe (Black Windowed) have a really dark tint/blurry on its side window?

I'm worried that I won't be able to see my LED's clearly through the case, such as my red LED fans, and RGB motherboard, GPU, and H115i waterblock LED.

Honestly I don't really care how dark it is, I just want it to be clear so that I can see the lighted LED words on the GPU, mobo, etc. and such clearly. I'm hoping the smokey dark tint doesn't make it blurry.

Does anyone have the black version of the windowed Enthoo Luxe and/or can give more info on how clear/tinted the side panel is?

Thanks


----------



## geriatricpollywog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Here's some more testing for you to look at. The rest of the EK line is quite good, the SE is awful - http://www.xtremerigs.net/2015/02/11/radiator-round-2015/5/
> That goes without saying, which is why it doesn't apply to the concern of the original subject.


Every other radiator in that review is thicker than the SE.

The SE performs remarkably well for a 25mm thick radiator. However, you should not use the SE where literally any other radiator would fit. Make sure you take measurements before buying any Hardware Labs radiator. The GTS and GTX/GTR are extra wide and I had to trim my case to fit a GTR where an EkK radiator fit snugly.

But is it a waste of space?

No, because it is the only radiator that fits in the back panel of my Evolv ATX


----------



## eXistencelies

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> Yeah, I'll be strait with you. You want a bigger case. Full tower. Your situation is what they are built for. Even an R5 won't work for you. Getting 3 HDDs and 5 SSDs in the Evolv with dual rads will not be fun. IDK what your storage space requirements are, but other alternatives include, selling your HDDs SSDs and getting fewer, higher capacity ones. Or building a NAS and putting them in there (with 1-2 SSD and 1 HDD in the Evolv).
> 
> I second avoiding the EK SE line. I don't think I have seen a single positive comparison vs other rads. Either get the EK PE, CE or a Hardware Labs GTS (30mm) rad. But ultimately, you should be in the market for a different case or a different storage solution in addition to the Evolv.


I agree with you here. With my setup I have my D5 pump where the HDD bays are. I have 3 SSDs. One in front and two on the backside. I also have 3 stupid ass thermaltake fan boxes. Such a dumb deisgn. Can't wait till NZXT comes out with their AER P RGB fans so I can connect them all to the hue+. I have no more room left. I am sure if I went with a shorter res and had the pump out in the open I would be able to fit ONE hdd in the drive bay. The rad connections sit at the bottom of the case so you wouldn't be able to fit a HDD in there flat on the bottom of the case. Would have to sit above.


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Omie*
> 
> Hi everyone,
> 
> So I'm finally going to be building my PC tomorrow.
> 
> Build: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/qDrVLD
> 
> I was wondering, does the Enthoo Luxe (Black Windowed) have a really dark tint/blurry on its side window?
> 
> I'm worried that I won't be able to see my LED's clearly through the case, such as my red LED fans, and RGB motherboard, GPU, and H115i waterblock LED.
> 
> Honestly I don't really care how dark it is, I just want it to be clear so that I can see the lighted LED words on the GPU, mobo, etc. and such clearly. I'm hoping the smokey dark tint doesn't make it blurry.
> 
> Does anyone have the black version of the windowed Enthoo Luxe and/or can give more info on how clear/tinted the side panel is?
> 
> Thanks


yes, the window is dark tinted, but the LEDs show fine. especially if you use an internal LED strip. at this point in time though I'd buy the tempered glass version of the case. I think it's also tinted, but you can see the LED fine.


----------



## Omie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PureBlackFire*
> 
> yes, the window is dark tinted, but the LEDs show fine. especially if you use an internal LED strip. at this point in time though I'd buy the tempered glass version of the case. I think it's also tinted, but you can see the LED fine.


The thing is, I don't really like the TG version because it shows the insides of the whole case (hard drive cages and all). Like if they made it so the TG replaced the acrylic panels of the regular version, then I would have bought it.

I started looking at some builds and it seems that some people have clearer windows and others don't. Here is an example:


http://imgur.com/J8ssI


See how the window in the first pic is like really blurry and the window in the second pic is much clearer?


----------



## PureBlackFire

^ that's all a function of the cameras, angles and lighting. the window is the same. dark tinted. that bottom pic is taken with the flash on the phone camera and the top pic is taken with no flash.


----------



## Omie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PureBlackFire*
> 
> ^ that's all a function of the cameras, angles and lighting. the window is the same. dark tinted. that bottom pic is taken with the flash on the phone camera and the top pic is taken with no flash.


Oh ok. So does the blurryness in the top pic come from the camera than? Because I'm hoping in real life it doesn't look blurry like the top pic.

Someone also mentioned that the TG version is also tinted. So does that mean it will look the same as the acrylic (clarity wise) except it will be more scratch resistant?


----------



## dlewbell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Omie*
> 
> Hi everyone,
> 
> So I'm finally going to be building my PC tomorrow.
> 
> Build: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/qDrVLD
> 
> I was wondering, does the Enthoo Luxe (Black Windowed) have a really dark tint/blurry on its side window?
> 
> I'm worried that I won't be able to see my LED's clearly through the case, such as my red LED fans, and RGB motherboard, GPU, and H115i waterblock LED.
> 
> Honestly I don't really care how dark it is, I just want it to be clear so that I can see the lighted LED words on the GPU, mobo, etc. and such clearly. I'm hoping the smokey dark tint doesn't make it blurry.
> 
> Does anyone have the black version of the windowed Enthoo Luxe and/or can give more info on how clear/tinted the side panel is?
> 
> Thanks


The window is fine. It scratches easily, & attracts dust, but has no clarity issues. Here's a few I took from mine (2 without flash, 1 with). You can check the first PC in my signature for older pictures as well, though the earliest were in my old case.


----------



## Omie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dlewbell*
> 
> The window is fine. It scratches easily, & attracts dust, but has no clarity issues. Here's a few I took from mine (2 without flash, 1 with). You can check the first PC in my signature for older pictures as well, though the earliest were in my old case.


Oh ok thanks for the pics. Is the TG version also tinted? Meaning it will look the same as the acrylic just without being scratch prone?


----------



## xTesla1856

The most annoying thing about the OG Luxe side window is the creaking and popping it does due to heat expansion. After I turn off my PC, there would be these huge cracks coming from the case, almost as if it were falling apart. The Luxe TG is so much more worth it just for the glass alone.


----------



## xTesla1856

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Omie*
> 
> Oh ok thanks for the pics. So since the TG version is also tinted, does that mean it will look the same as the acrylic just without being scratch prone?


The TG panel is a lot clearer to see through than the acrylic. Also, your view of the inside of your rig doesn't warp as you shift your angle. Get the Luxe TG if you at all can. It's such a nicer experience compared to the OG Luxe. Oh, and not scratching is a god-send IMO.


----------



## Omie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xTesla1856*
> 
> The most annoying thing about the OG Luxe side window is the creaking and popping it does due to heat expansion. After I turn off my PC, there would be these huge cracks coming from the case, almost as if it were falling apart. The Luxe TG is so much more worth it just for the glass alone.


Oh man I was afraid of that. That really sucks. Those sounds would drive me insane...

Should I just get the TG off Amazon? Like do you happen to know if they ship it securely?


----------



## xTesla1856

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Omie*
> 
> Oh man I was afraid of that. That really sucks. Those sounds would drive me insane...
> 
> Should I just get the TG off Amazon? Like do you happen to know if they ship it securely?


I would get the TG over the normal Luxe every time now. I had both, and the TG makes for such a nice build...

I don't know about Amazon, I bought mine from a local retailer and picked it up in store. But I think if it survived the trip from the factory to Switzerland, it should survive the trip from Amazon's warehouse to your house.


----------



## dlewbell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Omie*
> 
> Oh man I was afraid of that. That really sucks. Those sounds would drive me insane...
> 
> Should I just get the TG off Amazon? Like do you happen to know if they ship it securely?


You know, I think I've noticed that popping sound before, too. I've just never tried to figure out what it was.

I would buy it off Amazon without a second thought. Phanteks does a decent job packing their standard cases, so I don't see why they wouldn't do a good job packing tempered glass as well. If you do have any problems, just call up Phanteks customer support. They'll take care of you. My Luxe has some scuff marks on the PSU shroud. They just asked for pictures of the damage, & then shipped me a replacement.


----------



## Omie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dlewbell*
> 
> You know, I think I've noticed that popping sound before, too. I've just never tried to figure out what it was.
> 
> I would buy it off Amazon without a second thought. Phanteks does a decent job packing their standard cases, so I don't see why they wouldn't do a good job packing tempered glass as well. If you do have any problems, just call up Phanteks customer support. They'll take care of you. My Luxe has some scuff marks on the PSU shroud. They just asked for pictures of the damage, & then shipped me a replacement.


Yeah I just ordered the tempered glass of the black edition from Amazon. I'm happy I found this forum before I opened my regular case. I will be returning that back to Newegg tomorrow.


----------



## Omie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xTesla1856*
> 
> I would get the TG over the normal Luxe every time now. I had both, and the TG makes for such a nice build...
> 
> I don't know about Amazon, I bought mine from a local retailer and picked it up in store. But I think if it survived the trip from the factory to Switzerland, it should survive the trip from Amazon's warehouse to your house.


This is the one I ordered: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01M5JOEPJ/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1484253042&sr=8-2&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=enthoo+luxe&dpPl=1&dpID=41e7cSoDIdL&ref=plSrch

I just want to make sure, the TG version isn't missing anything from the non-TG right? Like it still has LED strips on both sides and the PWM fan hub, etc?

I can't find an unboxing or manual of the TG edition anywhere.


----------



## dlewbell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Omie*
> 
> This is the one I ordered: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01M5JOEPJ/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1484253042&sr=8-2&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=enthoo+luxe&dpPl=1&dpID=41e7cSoDIdL&ref=plSrch
> 
> I just want to make sure, the TG version isn't missing anything from the non-TG right? Like it still has LED strips on both sides and the PWM fan hub, etc?
> 
> I can't find an unboxing or manual of the TG edition anywhere.


The hardware for the ssd mounting points behind the motherboard has been moved to the panel covering the drive bays, but the holes are still there, so those could be moved back if you like. The slot for the rear 140mm exhaust fan is shorter to accommodate the panel hinge. The 200mm fan has been replaced with 2x140mm fans. The left side is tempered glass. Beyond that, the 2 cases appear to be identical still. Of course, you can only buy the white case with acrylic inserts, & the gray case with tempered glass, but neither of those facts concern you with a black case.


----------



## Omie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dlewbell*
> 
> The hardware for the ssd mounting points behind the motherboard has been moved to the panel covering the drive bays, but the holes are still there, so those could be moved back if you like. The slot for the rear 140mm exhaust fan is shorter to accommodate the panel hinge. The 200mm fan has been replaced with 2x140mm fans. The left side is tempered glass. Beyond that, the 2 cases appear to be identical still. Of course, you can only buy the white case with acrylic inserts, & the gray case with tempered glass, but neither of those facts concern you with a black case.


Ok thanks.

And what do you mean by the slot for the rear 140mm is shorter? Because I plan to replace that with a Corsair ML140 Pro LED (140mm fan). It will still fit right?

And does this case also have that RGB header cable for Asus Aura Sync? It is so the lights of the case can be synced and requires an adapter cable like this: https://www.amazon.com/Phanteks-Adapter-Specified-Control-PH-CB_RGB4P/dp/B01BZIBJAK


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Omie*
> 
> Oh ok. So does the blurryness in the top pic come from the camera than? Because I'm hoping in real life it doesn't look blurry like the top pic.
> 
> Someone also mentioned that the TG version is also tinted. So does that mean it will look the same as the acrylic (clarity wise) except it will be more scratch resistant?


the blurriness is the window quality, which frankly is not always good, and some combination of dust inside and user scratching the window up. can see many scratches in the window of the first pic. the glass is on a whole other level. I recently bought an InWin 303 and I'll literally never buy a case with acrylic or **** ploy carbonate windows again. it's gonna be glass panel or solid panel.


----------



## dlewbell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Omie*
> 
> Ok thanks.
> 
> And what do you mean by the slot for the rear 140mm is shorter? Because I plan to replace that with a Corsair ML140 Pro LED (140mm fan). It will still fit right?
> 
> And does this case also have that RGB header cable for Asus Aura Sync? It is so the lights of the case can be synced and requires an adapter cable like this: https://www.amazon.com/Phanteks-Adapter-Specified-Control-PH-CB_RGB4P/dp/B01BZIBJAK


It still fits all standard 140mm fans without issue. There's just not as much vertical adjustment range as there used to be. That said, the fans that come with the Luxe TG (PH-F140MP) are reportedly better than the ML140 Pro (no personal experience with either), so unless you just like the look, you're better off keeping the original.

Edit, photos of original Luxe & Luxe TG from rear to show difference:

Luxe Original


Luxe TG


----------



## Omie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dlewbell*
> 
> It still fits all standard 140mm fans without issue. There's just not as much vertical adjustment range as there used to be. That said, the fans that come with the Luxe TG (PH-F140MP) are reportedly better than the ML140 Pro (no personal experience with either), so unless you just like the look, you're better off keeping the original.


Oh ok. The only reason I got the ML140 Pro was because of the red LED so it matches my two radiator fans which are also ML140's.

When mounting the SSD, I see that the brackets are aligned horizontally. Are the SATA connectors of the SSD supposed to be positioned so the connectors face the left side or the right side?

EDIT: I see what you mean now about the SSD brackets. It seems that there are two more which shows through the panel, but the original mount is still there in the back of the case. So I could just remove one of the brackets and simply slide it into the mounting in the back of the case?


----------



## Omie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dlewbell*
> 
> It still fits all standard 140mm fans without issue. There's just not as much vertical adjustment range as there used to be. That said, the fans that come with the Luxe TG (PH-F140MP) are reportedly better than the ML140 Pro (no personal experience with either), so unless you just like the look, you're better off keeping the original.
> 
> Edit, photos of original Luxe & Luxe TG from rear to show difference:
> 
> Luxe Original
> 
> 
> Luxe TG


Oh and I forgot to ask, for the Luxe's TG version, is there mounting available for a 140mm fan on the bottom next to the PSU?


----------



## .theMetal

Welp I went ahead and pulled the psu cover out. Just drilled the rivets and there were two screws up front. I had to remove the front case feet to get at one of the bottom rivets. So far the temps have come down 3-4 degrees on the gpu, that was just some testing in valley before and after removing, letting it stress for about 20 minutes. Not extremely accurate, but I will do some more tinkering:



Only thing left is to order the 8 pin blue bitfenix extension for the graphics card and route it with the rest of the cables. I only have 6 pins on hand.

Edit: Here are temps/usage after an hour of The Division, which is one of my most taxing games:



Next is Rise of the Tomb Raider.


----------



## kriz225

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *.theMetal*
> 
> Welp I went ahead and pulled the psu cover out. Just drilled the rivets and there were two screws up front. I had to remove the front case feet to get at one of the bottom rivets. So far the temps have come down 3-4 degrees on the gpu, that was just some testing in valley before and after removing, letting it stress for about 20 minutes. Not extremely accurate, but I will do some more tinkering:
> 
> 
> 
> Only thing left is to order the 8 pin blue bitfenix extension for the graphics card and route it with the rest of the cables. I only have 6 pins on hand.
> 
> Edit: Here are temps/usage after an hour of The Division, which is one of my most taxing games:
> 
> 
> 
> Next is Rise of the Tomb Raider.


Nice! Do you still find the case to be pretty rigid?

I was surprised by how much flex the Evolve had with panels removed. I'd be scared to remove the PSU shroud!


----------



## .theMetal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kriz225*
> 
> Nice! Do you still find the case to be pretty rigid?
> I was surprised by how much flex the Evolve had with panels removed. I'd be scared to remove the PSU shroud!


Actually the case it self didn't feel any different as far as flex, I was surprised at how solid it still was even with side panels off. Maybe because it's pretty small in size. But the motherboard tray was definitely a little more wobbly. I'm thinking it has to do with the big chunk of metal hanging off there. But after I got the gpu installed, there was no more flex, it seemed to solidify everything.

Also here are some temps after some RotTR if anyone was interested:



I can't hear the fans at 64% over the case fans, actually I might bump them up a bit more.

It is nuts how much vram this game uses. It will take almost everything you give it.


----------



## xTesla1856

Luxe and Luxe TG are the same case apart from the glass and a new grey color. I believe the Luxe TG RGB controller is also a bit more advanced than the normal Luxe because you can hold the color change button for 2 seconds and you get a breathing effect. Hold it again for 2 seconds and you get a color change effect. Not sure if the OG Luxe also did that.


----------



## smanet

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *.theMetal*
> 
> Welp I went ahead and pulled the psu cover out. Just drilled the rivets and there were two screws up front. I had to remove the front case feet to get at one of the bottom rivets. So far the temps have come down 3-4 degrees on the gpu, that was just some testing in valley before and after removing, letting it stress for about 20 minutes. Not extremely accurate, but I will do some more tinkering:
> 
> ...


Thanks .theMetal, I was just planning the rip off the PSU shroud to help my 270X breath, and improve the areation. I got this case planning to get a NCASE, so bought a SF600 (BlackFriday discounted!) but, aside short cables, the shroud was definitely too much.
So, the case is sturdy enough? I was looking for aestethics too, but got a pair of Noctua fans, so...


----------



## xTesla1856

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Omie*
> 
> Oh and I forgot to ask, for the Luxe's TG version, is there mounting available for a 140mm fan on the bottom next to the PSU?


Yes, the bottom of the case support either a 240mm radiator or a single 140mm fan.


----------



## .theMetal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smanet*
> 
> Thanks .theMetal, I was just planning the rip off the PSU shroud to help my 270X breath, and improve the areation. I got this case planning to get a NCASE, so bought a SF600 (BlackFriday discounted!) but, aside short cables, the shroud was definitely too much.
> So, the case is sturdy enough? I was looking for aestethics too, but got a pair of Noctua fans, so...


It feels plenty sturdy to me without the shroud. Between the gpu and phanteks hanging off the motherboard tray, there is a ton of weight. I'm honestly not worried at all, and I will even continue to take it to lan parties. If you did end up pulling it out, and not liking it, it would be very easy to put back in, with just some small screws and nuts, or if you have a small rivet gun.


----------



## rayven1lk

So I have the Phanteks Enthoo Evolv ATX which has a pwm fan controller, where there are 6 3-pin fan headers which take SATA power and one 4-pin fan header which goes into the CPU_FAN header on the mobo. (ASUS ROG Maximus IX Code)



My questions are:
1) Do my case fans need to be regulated by CPU temp, which I'm assuming is the purpose of connecting to CPU_FAN header, or by mobo temp?

2) If I were to buy PWM fans, would it be compatible with this controller? or should I get another one, such as a fan pwm fan adapter connected to PSU by molex? The way I understand it is that one of the pins sends the signal to regulate the temperature, but the 4th pin on the fan controller would be able to do that itself.

Appreciate any advice. Thanks.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rayven1lk*
> 
> So I have the Phanteks Enthoo Evolv ATX which has a pwm fan controller, where there are 6 3-pin fan headers which take SATA power and one 4-pin fan header which goes into the CPU_FAN header on the mobo. (ASUS ROG Maximus IX Code)
> 
> 
> 
> My questions are:
> 1) Do my case fans need to be regulated by CPU temp, which I'm assuming is the purpose of connecting to CPU_FAN header, or by mobo temp?
> 
> 2) If I were to buy PWM fans, would it be compatible with this controller? or should I get another one, such as a fan pwm fan adapter connected to PSU by molex? The way I understand it is that one of the pins sends the signal to regulate the temperature, but the 4th pin on the fan controller would be able to do that itself.
> 
> Appreciate any advice. Thanks.


1 - No, you do not *need* to regulate all of your fans by CPU temp. Many do as the CPU temp tends to directly correlate with all other temps of your build and tends to be the quickest to react.

2 - The included hub will control PWM fans but will do so by using voltage regulation and not a PWM signal. So, it will work, but depending on the fan used it may have a smaller rpm bandwidth. For example, it really does not affect Phanteks fans when you run the PWM variety with voltage control, but it kills fans like Corsairs (like they needed to be any worse, right?) which have very high start up speeds and typically can't operate below 800-900 rpm in this scenario. Part two of your question - a three pin fan has positive, ground and speed sensor (which only serves to report the speed of the fan to the header, not control it) as the three pins, and speed is controlled by varying the voltage to the positive lead. A PWM fan has 12V+, 12V-, speed sensor (which only serves to report the speed of the fan to the header, not control it) and PWM (pulse width modulation) signal from the controlling source (MB header, fan controller, etc.) to regulate the fan speed. So, no, none of the signals regulate the temperature in any way.


----------



## xTesla1856

Finished the rig today and decided to film the plastic peel. Also, this is the first video of an actual Enthoo Luxe TG on YouTube


----------



## mrpurplehawk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xTesla1856*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Finished the rig today and decided to film the plastic peel. Also, this is the first video of an actual Enthoo Luxe TG on YouTube


Beautiful.

Fellow EWKB Predator owner I see, I hear they're coming out with a new AIO soon called "MLC"


----------



## skkane

Loving the evolv so far. Coming from a core x9, don't need that much space anymore and getting rid of that hunk of plastic sure feels nice.


----------



## bigdayve

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Thanks. They are great cases. I would go with the Luxe. Only things that needs done is put the 2x PH-F140SP fans in the front and either leave the 200mm out or put it in the top, depending on what your components and cooling are.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also modded the bottom slide of mine so PSU filter could be slid forward against the vent filter that slides out the front and tape the two together. Now I can pull out the all filters from the bottom and clean them without needing to move the case.
> Oh, and my Luxe sets on a caster base with a 3rd PH-F140SP bottom intake with no exhaust fans. 3x PH-F140SP move more than enough air to keep everything cool.


I've been searching the thread for uses of the F200SP and I haven't found much.

Currently, I have 3 case fans installed and it seems to be on par with my old setup with 5 fans that is posted in my sig.

I have 2 SP140's in the front slots for intake.
I have a 140mm fan blowing down on my socket behind the motherboard.
I was considering putting my F200SP on top in the front position as an intake fan. Does anyone have any experience with this?
I'm afraid putting it in the back as an exhaust would not work for two reasons: First, the fan probably wouldn't be able to push much air through the grill; Second, its large size would likely constrict airflow.

One more thing. I was thinking of getting a third fan for my PH-TC14PE because it could serve as a rear exhaust fan in addition to being a 3rd CPU fan. Good idea or not worth the trouble?


----------



## rayven1lk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> 1 - No, you do not *need* to regulate all of your fans by CPU temp. Many do as the CPU temp tends to directly correlate with all other temps of your build and tends to be the quickest to react.
> 
> 2 - The included hub will control PWM fans but will do so by using voltage regulation and not a PWM signal. So, it will work, but depending on the fan used it may have a smaller rpm bandwidth. For example, it really does not affect Phanteks fans when you run the PWM variety with voltage control, but it kills fans like Corsairs (like they needed to be any worse, right?) which have very high start up speeds and typically can't operate below 800-900 rpm in this scenario. Part two of your question - a three pin fan has positive, ground and speed sensor (which only serves to report the speed of the fan to the header, not control it) as the three pins, and speed is controlled by varying the voltage to the positive lead. A PWM fan has 12V+, 12V-, speed sensor (which only serves to report the speed of the fan to the header, not control it) and PWM (pulse width modulation) signal from the controlling source (MB header, fan controller, etc.) to regulate the fan speed. So, no, none of the signals regulate the temperature in any way.


Thanks for the in-depth description. I was thinking of getting Vardar F3 or F4s, so I don't think I'd wanna use that option since the under-volting may kill 'em.. I found this though:

https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-cable-splitter-4-fan-pwm-extended

Would this be a better option?


----------



## dlewbell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bigdayve*
> 
> I've been searching the thread for uses of the F200SP and I haven't found much.
> 
> Currently, I have 3 case fans installed and it seems to be on par with my old setup with 5 fans that is posted in my sig.
> 
> I have 2 SP140's in the front slots for intake.
> I have a 140mm fan blowing down on my socket behind the motherboard.
> I was considering putting my F200SP on top in the front position as an intake fan. Does anyone have any experience with this?
> I'm afraid putting it in the back as an exhaust would not work for two reasons: First, the fan probably wouldn't be able to push much air through the grill; Second, its large size would likely constrict airflow.
> 
> One more thing. I was thinking of getting a third fan for my PH-TC14PE because it could serve as a rear exhaust fan in addition to being a 3rd CPU fan. Good idea or not worth the trouble?


The F200SP will only fit in the back position on top. I previously considered doing exactly what you mention, but it is too wide. They actually cut out a section of the motherboard tray towards the rear to allow the 200mm fan to fit there (& only there). You can see it between the 2 rubber grommets at the top in this picture:


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rayven1lk*
> 
> Thanks for the in-depth description. I was thinking of getting Vardar F3 or F4s, so I don't think I'd wanna use that option since the under-volting may kill 'em.. I found this though:
> 
> https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-cable-splitter-4-fan-pwm-extended
> 
> Would this be a better option?


That would work....though you can probably buy the same cable for half the price without the EK name. Personally I have used this in several build and it works very well - https://www.amazon.com/Swiftech-8W-PWM-SPL-ST-Way-PWM-Splitter-Sata/dp/B00IF6R4C8

All a matter of preference. I preference a physical hub.


----------



## bigdayve

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dlewbell*
> 
> The F200SP will only fit in the back position on top. I previously considered doing exactly what you mention, but it is too wide. They actually cut out a section of the motherboard tray towards the rear to allow the 200mm fan to fit there (& only there). You can see it between the 2 rubber grommets at the top in this picture:


I see. I probably will just sell it then.


----------



## rayven1lk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> That would work....though you can probably buy the same cable for half the price without the EK name. Personally I have used this in several build and it works very well - https://www.amazon.com/Swiftech-8W-PWM-SPL-ST-Way-PWM-Splitter-Sata/dp/B00IF6R4C8
> 
> All a matter of preference. I preference a physical hub.


Nice. I'll actually be using 3 140mm and 3 120mm fans. Can this support different fans or they have to be the same model?


----------



## BinaryBummer

This is what the manual has in it for fast reference.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rayven1lk*
> 
> Nice. I'll actually be using 3 140mm and 3 120mm fans. Can this support different fans or they have to be the same model?


They can be any PWM fan, mix and match all you like. Not a problem.


----------



## BinaryBummer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> They can be any PWM fan, mix and match all you like. Not a problem.


The only thing I don't like is what I posted earlier, is that a real thick radiator and one set of fans may prove to contact a PSU cable like the ATX to mobo cable and others.


----------



## smiley424

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xTesla1856*
> 
> I would get the TG over the normal Luxe every time now. I had both, and the TG makes for such a nice build...
> 
> I don't know about Amazon, I bought mine from a local retailer and picked it up in store. But I think if it survived the trip from the factory to Switzerland, it should survive the trip from Amazon's warehouse to your house.


I am currently looking at either the TG Luxe or Pro M. I wanted to know if they updated the LED accent on the LUXE TG. I have read that the original release Luxe, the LEDs would always reset back to red when you turn off your PC.


----------



## dlewbell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smiley424*
> 
> I am currently looking at either the TG Luxe or Pro M. I wanted to know if they updated the LED accent on the LUXE TG. I have read that the original release Luxe, the LEDs would always reset back to red when you turn off your PC.


I have a non-TG Luxe, & my LEDs retain my blue selection without fail, through turning off the LEDs with the button, putting the system to sleep, turning the system off, or unplugging the system. For reference, my case was purchased 3/29/2016, & I purchased the 2m LED strip in addition to the factory external LEDs. I don't know whether the reset to red was a defect or just a bug that was fixed in later builds, but it's not present in my system.

Will all that said, I also saw mention of a breathing effect with the LEDs on the Luxe TG. I haven't seen it in use myself, so I can't confirm, but it appears the Luxe TG may have a different LED controller altogether.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xTesla1856*
> 
> Luxe and Luxe TG are the same case apart from the glass and a new grey color. I believe the Luxe TG RGB controller is also a bit more advanced than the normal Luxe because you can hold the color change button for 2 seconds and you get a breathing effect. Hold it again for 2 seconds and you get a color change effect. Not sure if the OG Luxe also did that.


----------



## xTesla1856

Can confirm, Luxe TG has breathing and color shift breathing modes for the LED accents. These effects also carry on to any inside Phanteks LED strip connected to the case.


----------



## smiley424

Awesome, thank you dlewbell and xTesla1856. I think I'm pretty much set on the LUXE. Currently in a Corsair 500R and air cooling with a Noctua NH-15 CPU cooler and fans. I am thinking about going custom water loop in the future and from what I have read, the LUXE has slightly more space for a top mount radiator.


----------



## dlewbell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xTesla1856*
> 
> Can confirm, Luxe TG has breathing and color shift breathing modes for the LED accents. These effects also carry on to any inside Phanteks LED strip connected to the case.


Any chance you could make a short video showing how these function? Also, do you still have the ability to completely turn off the LEDs? I haven't seen any information on this yet beyond what you've given us, & I'm curious. I'm already dreaming of upgrading to the TG version, & this just makes me want it more. Also, any idea if these updates will carry over to new stock of the non-TG Luxe?


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smiley424*
> 
> Awesome, thank you dlewbell and xTesla1856. I think I'm pretty much set on the LUXE. Currently in a Corsair 500R and air cooling with a Noctua NH-15 CPU cooler and fans. I am thinking about going custom water loop in the future and from what I have read, the LUXE has slightly more space for a top mount radiator.


Oh, I'm willing to bet that "slightly more space for a top mount radiator" will be among the smaller differences you notice. You are making a very nice upgrade here.


----------



## rayven1lk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> They can be any PWM fan, mix and match all you like. Not a problem.


Cool, I was planning on getting PWM fans for sure. Also, what would I need to keep in mind for power consumption? Just so I don't ruin the mobo when I plug in the header. I'm confused because the controller would get power from SATA, but the headers do have a max power number.


----------



## smiley424

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rayven1lk*
> 
> Cool, I was planning on getting PWM fans for sure. Also, what would I need to keep in mind for power consumption? Just so I don't ruin the mobo when I plug in the header. I'm confused because the controller would get power from SATA, but the headers do have a max power number.


I believe the controller uses the header to tie into the CPU temp sensor and control the fans accordingly while the power comes from SATA.


----------



## TheAbyss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smiley424*
> 
> Awesome, thank you dlewbell and xTesla1856. I think I'm pretty much set on the LUXE. Currently in a Corsair 500R and air cooling with a Noctua NH-15 CPU cooler and fans. I am thinking about going custom water loop in the future and from what I have read, the LUXE has slightly more space for a top mount radiator.


I am currently building a Luxe Setup too, I did not realize how good the case was until I finished an unmodded build for my friend yesterday in a Bitfenix Pandora ATX. Not a bad case either, but the Luxe is much more intuitive to work with. I will post some Pictures of my custom Loop mods that I did to the case to get around the fact that it is hard to find a good place for a tube Reservoir when you have a Long GPU.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rayven1lk*
> 
> Cool, I was planning on getting PWM fans for sure. Also, what would I need to keep in mind for power consumption? Just so I don't ruin the mobo when I plug in the header. I'm confused because the controller would get power from SATA, but the headers do have a max power number.


The only thing coming from the MB is the PWM signal, so there is no power coming from the MB header meaning that the power rating of the header means nothing in this case. However, keep in mind that a single PWM signal can typically run eight fans, any more than that may become an issue.


----------



## smanet

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *.theMetal*
> 
> It feels plenty sturdy to me without the shroud. Between the gpu and phanteks hanging off the motherboard tray, there is a ton of weight. I'm honestly not worried at all, and I will even continue to take it to lan parties. If you did end up pulling it out, and not liking it, it would be very easy to put back in, with just some small screws and nuts, or if you have a small rivet gun.


Ok, drilled all the rivets and got the shroud out. It's not stable as before, but still enough.
My GPU breaths, finally! What fans did you choose for front intake?


----------



## .theMetal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smanet*
> 
> Ok, drilled all the rivets and got the shroud out. It's not stable as before, but still enough.
> My GPU breaths, finally! What fans did you choose for front intake?


Very nice! If you get a chance, I would like to see a picture. But I used the Phanteks 140SP fans: http://www.phanteks.com/PH-F140SP.html I have them on a splitter with and a voltage reducer, so they are only running half speed, they move a ton of air.

I also modded the front panel to stick out a little more and that helps bring in more air.


----------



## pez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *.theMetal*
> 
> Welp I went ahead and pulled the psu cover out. Just drilled the rivets and there were two screws up front. I had to remove the front case feet to get at one of the bottom rivets. So far the temps have come down 3-4 degrees on the gpu, that was just some testing in valley before and after removing, letting it stress for about 20 minutes. Not extremely accurate, but I will do some more tinkering:
> 
> 
> 
> Only thing left is to order the 8 pin blue bitfenix extension for the graphics card and route it with the rest of the cables. I only have 6 pins on hand.
> 
> Edit: Here are temps/usage after an hour of The Division, which is one of my most taxing games:
> 
> 
> 
> Next is Rise of the Tomb Raider.


I always enjoy seeing your build







.

Still looking good







.


----------



## Omie

So I have the Enthoo Luxe Tempered Glass edition and it comes with a PWM hub which holds the 2 front 140mm fans (both fans are 3pin) and takes 3pin fans.

My motherboard is an Asus z270 Maximus IX Formula which has 3 true PWM chassis fan headers. What I did was plug the 4pin end of the PWM hub into my chassis fan 3 header.

However, the CHA_FAN3 header is shown as N/A in the BIOS as well as in monitoring programs such as Corsair Link. But when I go into the BIOS and look under Q-fan control and change the CHA_FAN3 from Auto to PWM, I can hear the front fans quiet down a bit. Changing it from auto to disabled makes the fans loud which I'm assuming they are going at the max rpm. So in this way, it seems that the front fans are working under the CHA_FAN3 header which the PWM hub is connected to.

So is this normal that it is listed as N/A under the CHA_FAN3 Header in the BIOS and monitoring programs but can still be controlled via Q-fan control in the BIOS? Also, am I not able to set fan curves and such because of this?

Here is what the PWM hub looks like: http://benchmarkreviews.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/08/Phanteks-Enthoo-Luxe-Fan-Controller.jpg


----------



## smanet

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *.theMetal*
> 
> Very nice! If you get a chance, I would like to see a picture. But I used the Phanteks 140SP fans: http://www.phanteks.com/PH-F140SP.html I have them on a splitter with and a voltage reducer, so they are only running half speed, they move a ton of air.
> 
> I also modded the front panel to stick out a little more and that helps bring in more air.


I'll do as soon as possibile! I have some NF-A14 PWM around (got them used for a radiator) and a NB PK3. Maybe I'll put a pair of the brownish fans where they aren't seen that much...








I was planning to use PowerAdjust 3 Std I had in WC setup to drive the fans, I don't like how MSI UEFI BIOS manages them, I have to figure out how hook it on can and get the LED to stick out:


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Omie*
> 
> So I have the Enthoo Luxe Tempered Glass edition and it comes with a PWM hub which holds the 2 front 140mm fans (both fans are 3pin) and takes 3pin fans.
> 
> My motherboard is an Asus z270 Maximus IX Formula which has 3 true PWM chassis fan headers. What I did was plug the 4pin end of the PWM hub into my chassis fan 3 header.
> 
> However, the CHA_FAN3 header is shown as N/A in the BIOS as well as in monitoring programs such as Corsair Link. But when I go into the BIOS and look under Q-fan control and change the CHA_FAN3 from Auto to PWM, I can hear the front fans quiet down a bit. Changing it from auto to disabled makes the fans loud which I'm assuming they are going at the max rpm. So in this way, it seems that the front fans are working under the CHA_FAN3 header which the PWM hub is connected to.
> 
> So is this normal that it is listed as N/A under the CHA_FAN3 Header in the BIOS and monitoring programs but can still be controlled via Q-fan control in the BIOS? Also, am I not able to set fan curves and such because of this?
> 
> Here is what the PWM hub looks like: http://benchmarkreviews.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/08/Phanteks-Enthoo-Luxe-Fan-Controller.jpg


Not familiar with your motherboard so don't know what headers are what. Your motherboard manual shows this on 1-24


Based on above, you have 8 4-pin PWM fan headers with PWM signal on pin-4. I would use CPU_OPT


----------



## .theMetal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pez*
> 
> I always enjoy seeing your build
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> Still looking good
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


Thanks, I appreciate it









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smanet*
> 
> I'll do as soon as possibile! I have some NF-A14 PWM around (got them used for a radiator) and a NB PK3. Maybe I'll put a pair of the brownish fans where they aren't seen that much...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was planning to use PowerAdjust 3 Std I had in WC setup to drive the fans, I don't like how MSI UEFI BIOS manages them, I have to figure out how hook it on can and get the LED to stick out:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Nice. I would say throw those 140mm fans in the front even if they are ugly haha. Two 140mm fans will move a lot more air than that original 200mm fan in the case.


----------



## mrpurplehawk

For those interested in the Enthoo Elite, Phantek's says it will be preorderable on their site by the end of the month


----------



## III-Method-III

Hi Folks

To say Im a little overwhelmed right now is an understatement. Ive been reading huge chunks of this thread, and other case threads, reviews on other sites etc, all in an attempt to avoid bad choices. I hope i might ask a few questions and get your experience?

Im looking to build a system for video editing (premiere, after effects, photoshop) and high end gaming.

My current build thoughts are either a 6800k or 6900k which I intend to OC, a GTX 1080 and 32 or 64 gb RAM. Ill be using a 1tb fast ssd (nvme) and a big spinner (4 or 6 Tb). i may keep a couple of SATA SSD's in the build too from my old machine. I didnt mention specifics on the RAM or Mobo becasue Im as yet undecided.

What is holding me back is the case. Im currently torn (to shreds) between the Phanteks Evolv TG or the Luxe TG. There may be other suggestions.

I said earlier I want to OC, but ive never done a custom water loop, so i was going to take my first step in that direction with an AIO cooler. Then I came across posts by Doyll, Ciarlatano and others which seemed to be saying that AIO's were "the devils work"







and making recommendations of pre-built kits from makers such as Swiftech.

So...you know roughly what Im going to build, and whilst Im not going to OC the nuts off the CPU, Im starting at 6 or 8 cores at 3.4 or 3.2 GHz and to game Im really looking to get to 4 Ghz minimum ideally. Higher the better. The extra cores over 4 just help with the encoding i do in Premiere/After Effects and to an extend in OBS when I record gameplay.

So what would you do? Luxe or Evolv? The Evolv seems to be the more challenging of the two cases for top mounted rads, the way they hang down over the motherboard and ram. I would love advice on some specific water cooling kits you would go for (i dont think im ready to make my own custom loop if Im honest) and Im happy to change case fans and fan setups to your suggestions. Im just keen to get this ordered and start tinkering.

Many thanks for any responses and have a great evening/day depending where you are!

Meth


----------



## XRogerX

ok so we know what you be using it for now people are going to ask what is you budget so they can give you an idea and help you out better


----------



## geriatricpollywog

I just finished a build on the Evolv ATX TG.

Top mount 280mm
Front mount 280mm
Side mount 360mm
Rear mount 140mm
Rear external 140mm

You can do anything if you believe.


----------



## XRogerX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0451*
> 
> I just finished a build on the Evolv ATX TG.
> 
> Top mount 280mm
> Front mount 280mm
> Side mount 360mm
> Rear mount 140mm
> Rear external 140mm
> 
> You can do anything if you believe.


didn't happen if you don't have pictures lol ,j/k lol
always wanted to say that


----------



## geriatricpollywog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XRogerX*
> 
> didn't happen if you don't have pictures lol ,j/k lol
> always wanted to say that


----------



## TheAbyss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *III-Method-III*
> 
> Hi Folks
> 
> To say Im a little overwhelmed right now is an understatement. Ive been reading huge chunks of this thread, and other case threads, reviews on other sites etc, all in an attempt to avoid bad choices. I hope i might ask a few questions and get your experience?
> 
> Im looking to build a system for video editing (premiere, after effects, photoshop) and high end gaming.
> 
> My current build thoughts are either a 6800k or 6900k which I intend to OC, a GTX 1080 and 32 or 64 gb RAM. Ill be using a 1tb fast ssd (nvme) and a big spinner (4 or 6 Tb). i may keep a couple of SATA SSD's in the build too from my old machine. I didnt mention specifics on the RAM or Mobo becasue Im as yet undecided.
> 
> What is holding me back is the case. Im currently torn (to shreds) between the Phanteks Evolv TG or the Luxe TG. There may be other suggestions.
> 
> I said earlier I want to OC, but ive never done a custom water loop, so i was going to take my first step in that direction with an AIO cooler. Then I came across posts by Doyll, Ciarlatano and others which seemed to be saying that AIO's were "the devils work"
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and making recommendations of pre-built kits from makers such as Swiftech.
> 
> So...you know roughly what Im going to build, and whilst Im not going to OC the nuts off the CPU, Im starting at 6 or 8 cores at 3.4 or 3.2 GHz and to game Im really looking to get to 4 Ghz minimum ideally. Higher the better. The extra cores over 4 just help with the encoding i do in Premiere/After Effects and to an extend in OBS when I record gameplay.
> 
> So what would you do? Luxe or Evolv? The Evolv seems to be the more challenging of the two cases for top mounted rads, the way they hang down over the motherboard and ram. I would love advice on some specific water cooling kits you would go for (i dont think im ready to make my own custom loop if Im honest) and Im happy to change case fans and fan setups to your suggestions. Im just keen to get this ordered and start tinkering.
> 
> Many thanks for any responses and have a great evening/day depending where you are!
> 
> Meth


Good morning, I was literally in the same boat as you are, and decided for the Luxe. As demonstrated above, the Evolve is capable of housing a custom Loop that should be able to handle your new built, I think the Luxe will a lot easier to work with as a water cooling beginner, and it will not Limit you as much as the Evolve when it Comes to the choices of Mainboard vs. top rad clearance. Having said that, and without your Budget estimates, I´d suggest either a custom Loop or pre-build kits from vendors like EK or Swiftech. There are a lot of People out there who will say that an AiO is more than ok, but I would still go with a custom Loop / kit because it´s easier to get the GPU into the Loop. Furthermore, no AIO can match a custom Loop in Terms of noise Levels and since you will also "work" with the Setup, I bet you are interested in a low noise Environment.

For further Details, it would be good to know your case choise in order to adapt to that decision.

Sorry for the capital letters, german text autocorrection....


----------



## geriatricpollywog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheAbyss*
> 
> Good morning, I was literally in the same boat as you are, and decided for the Luxe. As demonstrated above, the Evolve is capable of housing a custom Loop that should be able to handle your new built, I think the Luxe will a lot easier to work with as a water cooling beginner, and it will not Limit you as much as the Evolve when it Comes to the choices of Mainboard vs. top rad clearance. Having said that, and without your Budget estimates, I´d suggest either a custom Loop or pre-build kits from vendors like EK or Swiftech. There are a lot of People out there who will say that an AiO is more than ok, but I would still go with a custom Loop / kit because it´s easier to get the GPU into the Loop. Furthermore, no AIO can match a custom Loop in Terms of noise Levels and since you will also "work" with the Setup, I bet you are interested in a low noise Environment.
> 
> For further Details, it would be good to know your case choise in order to adapt to that decision.
> 
> Sorry for the capital letters, german text autocorrection....


Mainboard choice is not so much an issue as RAM choice. My motherboard is watercooled and the fittings are behind the radiators. I have about 1/16 inch clearance on either fitting.

RAM must not have a tall heat spreader, but any low profile will work.


----------



## III-Method-III

TheAbyss,XrogerX & 0451...thanks for your responses.

Budget: i dont need a psu (i dont think) as i have a 1 year old superflower 850w so presume thats enough for 1 1080 an oc cpu and some water? Also have all my monitors. So im kinda trying to keep the build at the 2,500gbp mark.

Given what ive read, and comments here, the ONLY thing stopping me going straight for the Luxe TG is those front 5 1/4 bays. I hate them and would love to get rid somehow. So assume the Luxe if it helps you advise me!

Ill be honest, doing a custom water build terrifies me lol. If there are kits which i can use you recommend i would prefer that. I hadnt concidered water cooling the gpu tho. Does it invalidate the warranty taking off the fans and heat sinks?

How would you deal with the 5 1/4 bays? Replace with a black grille? Im trying to take onboard all Doyll's advice in his stickies on airflow and if im going for mild +ve airpressure in the case putting a grille where the 5 1/4s are would wreck that right.


----------



## TheAbyss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *III-Method-III*
> 
> TheAbyss,XrogerX & 0451...thanks for your responses.
> 
> Budget: i dont need a psu (i dont think) as i have a 1 year old superflower 850w so presume thats enough for 1 1080 an oc cpu and some water? Also have all my monitors. So im kinda trying to keep the build at the 2,500gbp mark.
> 
> Given what ive read, and comments here, the ONLY thing stopping me going straight for the Luxe TG is those front 5 1/4 bays. I hate them and would love to get rid somehow. So assume the Luxe if it helps you advise me!
> 
> Ill be honest, doing a custom water build terrifies me lol. If there are kits which i can use you recommend i would prefer that. I hadnt concidered water cooling the gpu tho. Does it invalidate the warranty taking off the fans and heat sinks?
> 
> How would you deal with the 5 1/4 bays? Replace with a black grille? Im trying to take onboard all Doyll's advice in his stickies on airflow and if im going for mild +ve airpressure in the case putting a grille where the 5 1/4s are would wreck that right.


You are welcome! The Luxe (at least my nonTG Version) does not depend on the 5 1/4 front bays. You can remove the internal part easily (a couple of screws). If it´s about the visuals on the external side though, I think you can only make it worse by replacing the stock front "blinds" (I don´t know the english Expression frankly).

Answering your question about the GPU, there is a list somewhere about the warranty. All I recall is that EVGA explicitly allows to remove the fans an heatsinks, while it voids warranty for ASUS.

Your PSU is perfectly ok for your Setup (wattage as well as the manufacturer).

Talking about kits, I think there are other People here more familiar with pre-made kits than I am.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *III-Method-III*
> 
> Hi Folks
> 
> To say Im a little overwhelmed right now is an understatement. Ive been reading huge chunks of this thread, and other case threads, reviews on other sites etc, all in an attempt to avoid bad choices. I hope i might ask a few questions and get your experience?
> 
> Im looking to build a system for video editing (premiere, after effects, photoshop) and high end gaming.
> 
> My current build thoughts are either a 6800k or 6900k which I intend to OC, a GTX 1080 and 32 or 64 gb RAM. Ill be using a 1tb fast ssd (nvme) and a big spinner (4 or 6 Tb). i may keep a couple of SATA SSD's in the build too from my old machine. I didnt mention specifics on the RAM or Mobo becasue Im as yet undecided.
> 
> What is holding me back is the case. Im currently torn (to shreds) between the Phanteks Evolv TG or the Luxe TG. There may be other suggestions.
> 
> I said earlier I want to OC, but ive never done a custom water loop, so i was going to take my first step in that direction with an AIO cooler. Then I came across posts by Doyll, Ciarlatano and others which seemed to be saying that AIO's were "the devils work"
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and making recommendations of pre-built kits from makers such as Swiftech.
> 
> So...you know roughly what Im going to build, and whilst Im not going to OC the nuts off the CPU, Im starting at 6 or 8 cores at 3.4 or 3.2 GHz and to game Im really looking to get to 4 Ghz minimum ideally. Higher the better. The extra cores over 4 just help with the encoding i do in Premiere/After Effects and to an extend in OBS when I record gameplay.
> 
> So what would you do? Luxe or Evolv? The Evolv seems to be the more challenging of the two cases for top mounted rads, the way they hang down over the motherboard and ram. I would love advice on some specific water cooling kits you would go for (i dont think im ready to make my own custom loop if Im honest) and Im happy to change case fans and fan setups to your suggestions. Im just keen to get this ordered and start tinkering.
> 
> Many thanks for any responses and have a great evening/day depending where you are!
> 
> Meth


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheAbyss*
> 
> You are welcome! The Luxe (at least my nonTG Version) does not depend on the 5 1/4 front bays. You can remove the internal part easily (a couple of screws). If it´s about the visuals on the external side though, I think you can only make it worse by replacing the stock front "blinds" (I don´t know the english Expression frankly).
> 
> Answering your question about the GPU, there is a list somewhere about the warranty. All I recall is that EVGA explicitly allows to remove the fans an heatsinks, while it voids warranty for ASUS.
> 
> Your PSU is perfectly ok for your Setup (wattage as well as the manufacturer).
> 
> Talking about kits, I think there are other People here more familiar with pre-made kits than I am.


First I'm going to confuse you some more.








AIO are not all bad. Only the AIO sub group CLC are all bad.

But why do you want to go water cooling? Do you need water cooling to keep system from running too hot or do you just think you want to have water cooling because it is cool or because lots and lots of people have it. I have 7 systems in my house .. all being used at least part of every day. Twp are overclocked (i7 [email protected] and i7 [email protected]). None of them are water cooled!! ..

Wait! I just lied! my i7 6700K is under a be quiet! Silent Loop 280mm.







But it is the only water cooling I am using. I often test and review products and that is why I have the Silent Loop 280mm. If I was paying full price for a cooler I would definitely stay with air cooling. As great as the Silent Loop is, it is not significantly better than the Phanteks PH-TC14PE I replaced. And the PH-TC14PE is not significantly better than any of 6-8 other top tier coolers I have in my cooler treasure chest .. as in chest of coolers.

I have both a normal Enthoo Luxe and Enthoo Evolv ATX. in my covey of funtioning cases. Both are very nice cases, possible the best I have every used. Have you looked at Fractal Design Define C or Define S cases? They are similar quality and have no 5.25 optical bays.


----------



## III-Method-III

@doyll
My current PC is on air for the CPU. I have 3 reasons (or perceptions) that make me want to try water
1) never have before. Adventures are fun right?
2) i have the perception that its quieter (if done right)
3) i have the perception that i can OC more aggressively and shift more heat than air

My final reason isnt really a reasin, but again if done right it can look very nice.

As this is both a work machine and games machine the primary driver is quietness.


----------



## XanderTheGoober

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *III-Method-III*
> 
> @doyll
> My current PC is on air for the CPU. I have 3 reasons (or perceptions) that make me want to try water
> 1) never have before. Adventures are fun right?
> 2) i have the perception that its quieter (if done right)
> 3) i have the perception that i can OC more aggressively and shift more heat than air
> 
> My final reason isnt really a reasin, but again if done right it can look very nice.
> 
> As this is both a work machine and games machine the primary driver is quietness.


You would have to make sure you get the right radiators as this will be the main determining factor in the noise level along with the pump and fans.
Also if you're on a tight budget take my advice and steer clear of water cooling. I went into my first loop looking to spend $300-$400. today i probably have spent a hair over $1000 on the whole loop through a couple additions and revisions.
Yes adventures are fun but you have to be willing to pay the price for them.


----------



## III-Method-III

Lol $1000. Mission creep at its best. Sobering advice though.

This is why i was i initially looking at an AIO solution. Fixed price, fixed performance

Im still not sure a custom loop is right for my first build. Mixed advice here tbh!

Realistically what cooling and noise level can i achieve with a non-CLC AIO solution compared to a high end cpu fan?

I guess this is my primary question now


----------



## XanderTheGoober

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *III-Method-III*
> 
> Lol $1000. Mission creep at its best. Sobering advice though.
> 
> This is why i was i initially looking at an AIO solution. Fixed price, fixed performance
> 
> Im still not sure a custom loop is right for my first build. Mixed advice here tbh!
> 
> Realistically what cooling and noise level can i achieve with a non-CLC AIO solution compared to a high end cpu fan?
> 
> I guess this is my primary question now


The performance with a custom loop will be better at slightly better noise levels. I have never had a high end huge tower cooler with excellent quality fans so I can't say for sure how comparable they are but there are some pretty quiet air coolers out there, all depending on the fans of course.

I would say watercooling is a fun experience but I just want to make sure people know what they could be getting into when starting out from scratch. I am also at the point where watercooling isn't at all neccessary for me as I don't overclock much anymore and the main benefit I get from it is low temps on my gpu with low fan speed.


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *III-Method-III*
> 
> Lol $1000. Mission creep at its best. Sobering advice though.
> 
> This is why i was i initially looking at an AIO solution. Fixed price, fixed performance
> 
> Im still not sure a custom loop is right for my first build. Mixed advice here tbh!
> 
> Realistically what cooling and noise level can i achieve with a non-CLC AIO solution compared to a high end cpu fan?
> 
> I guess this is my primary question now


The conflicting advice is basically because there isn't really a "huge" difference. People have successfully implemented both solutions. Done right, neither is bad (non-CLC AIO, high end air).

IMO the main advantage is that non-CLC AIOs can consistently run at a lower RPM under load and have less fluctuations in RPM change (when PWM is set to water temp). Getting a Swiftech AIO and then putting a water temp sensor in the drain port is a great move. Instead of worrying about your CPU temp which can fluctuate rapidly, you set PWM to the water, which changes slowly and largely now controls the temp of the CPU. However, at idle and moderate load, a high end air setup can be quieter (usually BC of the pump noise... which isn't that bad... but is still there).

IMO the best "middle ground" option for you is something like a Swiftech H240 (or 320) X2 Prestige, and an EVGA 1080 FTW Hybrid. That way, you get your water cooling, don't have to fuss with installation, can expand/connect CPU/GPU in the future if you want and don't spend as much as a full custom loop. Get that, the water temp sensor, maybe a replacement fan for the EVGA Hybrid (IDK if possible so double check) and you should be set.


----------



## XanderTheGoober

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> The conflicting advice is basically because there isn't really a "huge" difference. People have successfully implemented both solutions. Done right, neither is bad (non-CLC AIO, high end air).
> 
> IMO the main advantage is that non-CLC AIOs can consistently run at a lower RPM under load and have less fluctuations in RPM change (when PWM is set to water temp). Getting a Swiftech AIO and then putting a water temp sensor in the drain port is a great move. Instead of worrying about your CPU temp which can fluctuate rapidly, you set PWM to the water, which changes slowly and largely now controls the temp of the CPU. However, at idle and moderate load, a high end air setup can be quieter (usually BC of the pump noise... which isn't that bad... but is still there).
> 
> IMO the best "middle ground" option for you is something like a Swiftech H240 (or 320) X2 Prestige, and an EVGA 1080 FTW Hybrid. That way, you get your water cooling, don't have to fuss with installation, can expand/connect CPU/GPU in the future if you want and don't spend as much as a full custom loop. Get that, the water temp sensor, maybe a replacement fan for the EVGA Hybrid (IDK if possible so double check) and you should be set.


I agree with this. Drain port is a must though so right from the start you will be draining the AIO and filling it back up again once the drain port is in place.


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XanderTheGoober*
> 
> I agree with this. Drain port is a must though so right from the start you will be draining the AIO and filling it back up again once the drain port is in place.


If he turns the rad upside down with the pump on (pulls the water down) and then just screws on the drain port quickly he shouldn't have to bleed the system. Some air will get in, but it should filter out to the res eventually.

BTW Meth, drain port = male to male fitting, ball valve, end cap or in this case water temp sensor. You can add in a rotating 90 degree fitting if you want to make your life a little easier and take up less space. This is what I have on my H240X. Works great.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *III-Method-III*
> 
> Lol $1000. Mission creep at its best. Sobering advice though.
> 
> This is why i was i initially looking at an AIO solution. Fixed price, fixed performance
> 
> Im still not sure a custom loop is right for my first build. Mixed advice here tbh!
> 
> Realistically what cooling and noise level can i achieve with a non-CLC AIO solution compared to a high end cpu fan?
> 
> I guess this is my primary question now


Listen to these guys. Only thing is I don't like the GPU hybred .. it's using a CLC cooler that only cools the GPU chip .. everything else on GPU is air cooled .. and there are other components on GPUs that run hot besides their processor.

The difference between good air cooling and a custom loop or Swiftech is really not significant unless your are doing extreme overclocks .. and these extreme overclocks do little more than massage their owner's egos. The slight increases is MGz and slight decreases in operation times is really insignificant on normal operation. While using water temp to control fans will keep fan speeds from ramping up as soon, if the load is for very long they will ramp up anyway. I still think it is possible that a good H2O system will be slightly cooler and lower in noise, it's not by much. If pump has to ramp up much at all it will become audible.

The differences are really not the key, money is key. Like XanderTheGoober said, make sure you have deep pockets .. very deep pockets. They you can play with water cooling and have fun .. and not be stressing out of looking over your shoulder to see if girlfriend/wife is about to club you over the head.


----------



## III-Method-III

Damnit Doyll. You had to go and use the "W" word didnt you?

How dare you talk sense and then drag my wife into it. Now im going to have to get out of my dreamy bubble and face reality.

I can assure you i wont be spending 1000gbp in a wayer cooling mission creep fiasco.

This is probably why i gave up last time and went on air.

I am still tempted by the swiftech products tho. They seem a sensible compromise between custom water and a CLC AIO, allowing the owner to have a stab at trouble shooting and basic maintenance. There also seems the posdibility of expansion?

I guess if im going to go water it will be this solution.

So is wayer cooling a gpu a mad idea? Warranty?
You mentioned the gpu usnt the only hot thing so how does the rest get cooled once you go water?


----------



## XanderTheGoober

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *III-Method-III*
> 
> Damnit Doyll. You had to go and use the "W" word didnt you?
> 
> How dare you talk sense and then drag my wife into it. Now im going to have to get out of my dreamy bubble and face reality.
> 
> I can assure you i wont be spending 1000gbp in a wayer cooling mission creep fiasco.
> 
> This is probably why i gave up last time and went on air.
> 
> I am still tempted by the swiftech products tho. They seem a sensible compromise between custom water and a CLC AIO, allowing the owner to have a stab at trouble shooting and basic maintenance. There also seems the posdibility of expansion?
> 
> I guess if im going to go water it will be this solution.
> 
> So is wayer cooling a gpu a mad idea? Warranty?
> You mentioned the gpu usnt the only hot thing so how does the rest get cooled once you go water?


He is referring to the hybrid solutions which basically strap a closed loop cooler to the GPU die itself and use little heatsinks for the memory modules. If you go with the swiftech unit that is expandable you would just get a full cover block and connect it up, possibly along with another radiator to compensate for the additional heat in the loop


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *III-Method-III*
> 
> So is wayer cooling a gpu a mad idea? Warranty?
> You mentioned the gpu usnt the only hot thing so how does the rest get cooled once you go water?


I believe MSI has a no water cooling policy. I know EVGA is cool with it as long as you RMA the card in its "out of the box" form (stock cooler on). IDK about Gigabyte and Asus.

The the only advantage to a water cooled CLC GPU is expelling GPU heat directly out of the case. Vs AIB air cards, the performance differences are minor. Only reason I recommended the EVGA FTW Hybrid is because EK and Watercool make water blocks for that PCB and the Hybrid cooler can be sold relativity easily for a decent price down the road should you desire. The stock cooler also cools the memory and the core on one cold plate (unlike MSI Seahawk). The VRM and power delivery are air cooled, but you will run into limits on the chip before the VRM with Pascal.

Again, though, there are no "bad" choices here... just ones the cost more than others.


----------



## XanderTheGoober

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> I believe MSI has a no water cooling policy. I know EVGA is cool with it as long as you RMA the card in its "out of the box" form (stock cooler on). IDK about Gigabyte and Asus.
> 
> The the only advantage to a water cooled CLC GPU is expelling GPU heat directly out of the case. Vs AIB air cards, the performance differences are minor. Only reason I recommended the EVGA FTW Hybrid is because EK and Watercool make water blocks for that PCB and the Hybrid cooler can be sold relativity easily for a decent price down the road should you desire. The stock cooler also cools the memory and the core on one cold plate (unlike MSI Seahawk). The VRM and power delivery are air cooled, but you will run into limits on the chip before the VRM with Pascal.
> 
> Again, though, there are no "bad" choices here... just ones the cost more than others.


MSI also still honors warranty from swapping the coolers and pretty much requests the same as you stated from evga, in the event an rma is needed the stock cooler needs to be fixed to the card. At least that's in the US.
XFX also does, in fact they sent me just a cooler for a gpu when one of the fans failed and had me install it without effecting warranty.


----------



## XRogerX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0451*


wow that's sweet , i was kidding bud lol really i was ,but that is awesome nive work +1 rep


----------



## Sazexa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mrpurplehawk*
> 
> For those interested in the Enthoo Elite, Phantek's says it will be preorderable on their site by the end of the month


I still wish it was available in silver. If they made it in silver, I'd have bought one.


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mrpurplehawk*
> 
> For those interested in the Enthoo Elite, Phantek's says it will be preorderable on their site by the end of the month


Tbh, I personally couldn't care less about the Elite. It doesn't looks like a $900 case to me at all. Not sure what happened between Computex 2016 and CES 2017 that took 6 months and made it rise $200 in price, but I just don't see it.

If I had around a $1000 to spend on a case, the elite would probably be one of the last cases on my list.


----------



## mrpurplehawk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sazexa*
> 
> I still wish it was available in silver. If they made it in silver, I'd have bought one.


I wonder why they decided not to make a silver color. For the Evolv it seemed to sell really well.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gilles3000*
> 
> Tbh, I personally couldn't care less about the Elite. It doesn't looks like a $900 case to me at all. Not sure what happened between Computex 2016 and CES 2017 that took 6 months and made it rise $200 in price, but I just don't see it.
> 
> If I had around a $1000 to spend on a case, the elite would probably be one of the last cases on my list.


While I agree the $900 is more than its probably worth, I like the design enough to go ahead and do it.


----------



## Chiobe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gilles3000*
> 
> Tbh, I personally couldn't care less about the Elite. It doesn't looks like a $900 case to me at all. Not sure what happened between Computex 2016 and CES 2017 that took 6 months and made it rise $200 in price, but I just don't see it.
> 
> If I had around a $1000 to spend on a case, the elite would probably be one of the last cases on my list.


Its possible they ended up making a deal with 8pack about how it should be made: https://www.caseking.de/lp/8pack-orionx-coming-soon.html


----------



## PetrasSukys

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gilles3000*
> 
> Tbh, I personally couldn't care less about the Elite. It doesn't looks like a $900 case to me at all. Not sure what happened between Computex 2016 and CES 2017 that took 6 months and made it rise $200 in price, but I just don't see it.
> 
> If I had around a $1000 to spend on a case, the elite would probably be one of the last cases on my list.


If I had around $1k to spend on a case, I would consider building a pc-in-a-table...







Or some fancy wall mount...


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *III-Method-III*
> 
> Damnit Doyll. You had to go and use the "W" word didnt you?
> 
> How dare you talk sense and then drag my wife into it. Now im going to have to get out of my dreamy bubble and face reality.
> 
> I can assure you i wont be spending 1000gbp in a wayer cooling mission creep fiasco.
> 
> This is probably why i gave up last time and went on air.
> 
> I am still tempted by the swiftech products tho. They seem a sensible compromise between custom water and a CLC AIO, allowing the owner to have a stab at trouble shooting and basic maintenance. There also seems the posdibility of expansion?
> 
> I guess if im going to go water it will be this solution.
> 
> So is wayer cooling a gpu a mad idea? Warranty?
> You mentioned the gpu usnt the only hot thing so how does the rest get cooled once you go water?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chiobe*
> 
> Its possible they ended up making a deal with 8pack about how it should be made: https://www.caseking.de/lp/8pack-orionx-coming-soon.html


More like 8-pack came to some sort of arrangement with Phanteks .. as in Phanteks has more pull and weight then 8-pack does. As far as I know 8-pack is a Case King employee


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mrpurplehawk*
> 
> While I agree the $900 is more than its probably worth, I like the design enough to go ahead and do it.


If you like it and you can afford it, just go for it. Just wanted to share my opinion about it.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chiobe*
> 
> Its possible they ended up making a deal with 8pack about how it should be made: https://www.caseking.de/lp/8pack-orionx-coming-soon.html


I think its more likely he just gave them a few pointers and Caseking licensed the case for his custom 8-Pack version.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PetrasSukys*
> 
> If I had around $1k to spend on a case, I would consider building a pc-in-a-table...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Or some fancy wall mount...


$1000 will buy you a fancy desk-pc-case









https://www.caseking.de/en/vector-custom-design-vd01-tisch-gehaeuse-schwarz-gevc-001.html


----------



## PetrasSukys

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gilles3000*
> 
> $1000 will buy you a fancy desk-pc-case


Well, fancy is a matter of taste. Building your own is more "let's do it how I want and how I need" thing


----------



## III-Method-III

Doyll, being a member of the OCUK forums too, i know he works for them in some capacity creating pre-binned and gauranteed oc'able cpus and builds.

Unsure if he is an employee tho, probably consults to them. Dunno.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *III-Method-III*
> 
> Doyll, being a member of the OCUK forums too, i know he works for them in some capacity creating pre-binned and gauranteed oc'able cpus and builds.
> 
> Unsure if he is an employee tho, probably consults to them. Dunno.


I'm not sure exactly what his title/job discription is, but he is definitely a part of OcUK's staff and/or possibly Case King's staff. After all Case King owns OcUK.







Where on Earth are you located?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PetrasSukys*
> 
> Well, fancy is a matter of taste. Building your own is more "let's do it how I want and how I need" thing


Yeah, a good high end case and internal components, but no 'fancy' audio card and no peripherals for $1000, but not a complete computer and definitely not a 'fancy' computer.
$100-150 for decent case
$ 30- 80 for extra case fans
$200-400 for motherboard
$300-400 for CPU
$50-100 for CPU cooler
$200-350 for RAM
$200-300 for GPU
$100-200 for PSU

$1050-1980 .. and that does not allow for any extras in the case and no keyboard, mouse, sound system, monitor, printer, etc. I think that list of peripherals are pretty much mandatory for a stand alone system. I would need a scanner .. and a audio card too.

My computer sound system (Klipsch ProMedia 5.1 Ultra) cost $350 12 years ago .. and audio card (Asus Xonar) was £150 8 years ago.


----------



## paskowitz

<$750: Budget systems
$750-1000: Low end
$1000-1500: average
$1500-2000: enthusiast
$2000-3000: high end
$3000-5000: Top end
$5000+: Professional custom systems

At least IMO.


----------



## xTesla1856

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> <$750: Budget systems
> $750-1000: Low end
> $1000-1500: average
> $1500-2000: enthusiast
> $2000-3000: high end
> $3000-5000: Top end
> $5000+: Professional custom systems
> 
> At least IMO.


Glad to know I'm in the Top End


----------



## III-Method-III

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> I'm not sure exactly what his title/job discription is, but he is definitely a part of OcUK's staff and/or possibly Case King's staff. After all Case King owns OcUK.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Where on Earth are you located?
> Yeah, a good high end case and internal components, but no 'fancy' audio card and no peripherals for $1000, but not a complete computer and definitely not a 'fancy' computer.
> $100-150 for decent case
> $ 30- 80 for extra case fans
> $200-400 for motherboard
> $300-400 for CPU
> $50-100 for CPU cooler
> $200-350 for RAM
> $200-300 for GPU
> $100-200 for PSU


My location on Earth is the same the same as yours. I was going to be annoying and say "the surface" but then some smart ass would say that if Im in a house technically its above the earths surface due to foundations, slab and DPC etc. But I digress.

To answer your question Im UK like you. More specifically Sussex, and more specifically still, Crawley. I think OCUK are Stoke boys, so about 200 miles from me. Too far to drive to pick stuff up.

I flippantly said "in the UK like you" because your Location under your name on the left of your posts says "UK"....but in the last post you did you are quoting costs in $. Which baffles me. I wouldnt know the cost of anything in dollars. Oh wait, I live in the UK, so the cost of anything in GBP is the same as the $ cost on Amazon lol. Makes me SO ANGRY


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xTesla1856*
> 
> Glad to know I'm in the Top End


Feel free to add it to your sig.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *III-Method-III*
> 
> My location on Earth is the same the same as yours. I was going to be annoying and say "the surface" but then some smart ass would say that if Im in a house technically its above the earths surface due to foundations, slab and DPC etc. But I digress.
> 
> To answer your question Im UK like you. More specifically Sussex, and more specifically still, Crawley. I think OCUK are Stoke boys, so about 200 miles from me. Too far to drive to pick stuff up.
> 
> I flippantly said "in the UK like you" because your Location under your name on the left of your posts says "UK"....but in the last post you did you are quoting costs in $. Which baffles me. I wouldnt know the cost of anything in dollars. Oh wait, I live in the UK, so the cost of anything in GBP is the same as the $ cost on Amazon lol. Makes me SO ANGRY


I have a good reason for asking you.








I've found that component prices between $ & £ are comparable, but reason I answered in$ is because that was what the post I was replying to used.


----------



## xTesla1856

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> Feel free to add it to your sig.


Eh, my sig is pretty full already


----------



## SeriousTom

I was thinking about getting a Phanteks' Enthoo Pro M Tempered Glass case but I'm concerned about the memory clearance.
The specs say 48mm for motherboard-fan.
I'd be using my OLD NZXT Kraken X60 280mm setup it's 52mm thick and G.SKILL TridentZ Series memory, would it fit on top ?


----------



## madweazl

Still plenty left to do (including rerouting of the GPU tubes) but it is temporarily up and running.


__
https://flic.kr/p/Q9kbxB


----------



## TheAbyss

That is a very nice monoblock you have there Sir! Very tidy Setup, I like it! May I ask what do you want to Change with your GPU tubing?


----------



## Chiobe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *madweazl*
> 
> 
> __
> https://flic.kr/p/Q9kbxB


Is it just me or does the loop look reversed on the CPU block ("in" is being used as "out")? At least based on the flow from the reservoir, so does it seem to be the case.


----------



## madweazl

This setup has dual reservoirs, the other is an EK pump/bayres combo. Flow leaves that, hits the upper rad, the cpu block, lower rad, gpu, lower res, and back up to the bayres.


----------



## madweazl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheAbyss*
> 
> That is a very nice monoblock you have there Sir! Very tidy Setup, I like it! May I ask what do you want to Change with your GPU tubing?


I'd like to lower the horizontal tube on the GPU out and then make both of them more symmetrical to one another. If my plan works, there should be enough room to eliminate one 90° on the in side but we'll see. I still have a few cables to sleeve and a lot of tidying up of the cables on the back panel (yikes!). I'm also waiting on some CLU (between the die and IHS) so everything will be torn down and refilled once it arrives. I'm still debating painting the red strip on the SB heatsink to match the back panel covers but also plan on grabbing another GPU which would cover it up too. As with all builds, it's never finished


----------



## kovyrshin

Does anyone knows when Evolv M TG and/or project 217 will be released?


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kovyrshin*
> 
> Does anyone knows when Evolv M TG and/or project 217 will be released?


supposedly next month for Evolv M TG. expect summer though. Project 217 I do not expect this year. I wasn't too invested when the Primo was coming out and the Enthoo Pro actually got some upgraded features and came out earlier than expected (basically swapped launches with the Luxe that was supposed to launch first) but beside that, they've never kept a launch date for a case. half haven't launched within 4 months of the supposed launch window.


----------



## Chiobe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *madweazl*
> 
> This setup has dual reservoirs, the other is an EK pump/bayres combo. Flow leaves that, hits the upper rad, the cpu block, lower rad, gpu, lower res, and back up to the bayres.


That makes sense, I was just lacking the complete picture.
Also, given the colors of the build, do you plan on using transparent blue or uv fluid?


----------



## madweazl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chiobe*
> 
> That makes sense, I was just lacking the complete picture.
> Also, given the colors of the build, do you plan on using transparent blue or uv fluid?


Pastel blue


----------



## Tony130

my phanteks Eclipse 400s tempered glass


----------



## paskowitz

Very clean! Great cable management. The NZXT cooler has a HAL 9000 look.

"HAL, go to 6Ghz on the CPU please" ... "I am sorry Tony, I can't do that for you..."


----------



## pez

I'm starting to miss my Phanteks case. I keep throwing up the idea of moving to that mATX Evolv TG.


----------



## boredgunner

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pez*
> 
> I'm starting to miss my Phanteks case. I keep throwing up the idea of moving to that mATX Evolv TG.


You should! Case looks amazing. I'm curious about the hinged side panels, seems like a nice improvement.


----------



## pez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *boredgunner*
> 
> You should! Case looks amazing. I'm curious about the hinged side panels, seems like a nice improvement.


Yeah, I'm itching to do a new build, and I'd love for the Ncase to become a living room build. Even a small-ish server too if I got a ITX 1060 (or that snazzy 1080 ITX).


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tony130*
> 
> my phanteks Eclipse 400s tempered glass


Very nice, clean cables too.









And even though i'm not a huge fan of CLC's, NZXT did do a great job with the looks of that pump/block combo. Kinda wish someone would make a good CPU-block that looked like that.


----------



## mrpurplehawk

so I finally managed to get some room to work on my Primo without having to pull my second desk out


----------



## .theMetal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pez*
> 
> I'm starting to miss my Phanteks case. I keep throwing up the idea of moving to that mATX Evolv TG.


Pez didn't you have a few Phanteks cases? I thought you had an ITX as well?


----------



## pez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *.theMetal*
> 
> Pez didn't you have a few Phanteks cases? I thought you had an ITX as well?


My GFs rig is in the Evolv ITX still, but I did move from the Pro M to the Ncase







. The Pro M went to a good home as a birthday/Christmas present to a good friend of mine. I'm actually considering a Pro M TG again as I absolutely adored the case. Maybe a Titanium gray this time....


----------



## waway625

I was planning to get a Jonsbo UMX4 but the Phanteks P400 TG internals and compact size won me over!

I have some questions though and im not sure if this is the proper thread to ask

Im in a tropical country and even at night time the temps can be around 26-28c..as the windows are closed, it may even be higher

5820k running on stock

my temps










my current setup










my planned setup










My objectives are

1. lower temps if its not optimal and correct any mistakes in my fan setup
2. lower volume if at all possible. I can hear the fans whirring when gaming (if I put my headphone off, or say im running heaven benchmark)

instead of the planned fan changes, would any of the following make more sense?

1. change setup in corsair link? how?
2. Get GPU to turn fans on at a lower temp? Not yet sure when the fan spins on the GTX1080 but from the photo it seems even at 45c the gpu fan is still idle

thanks!


----------



## .theMetal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pez*
> 
> My GFs rig is in the Evolv ITX still, but I did move from the Pro M to the Ncase
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . The Pro M went to a good home as a birthday/Christmas present to a good friend of mine. I'm actually considering a Pro M TG again as I absolutely adored the case. Maybe a Titanium gray this time....


Gotcha, and yes these tempered glass cases prompt much spending, they are super sexy. I'm wondering if they have an ITX with glass in their future plans.


----------



## Gorhell

Count me in guys will buy an RGB Led Tomorrow. Will 2M be enough? Sorry for the ugly pictures Z5 Camera sucks


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *waway625*
> 
> I was planning to get a Jonsbo UMX4 but the Phanteks P400 TG internals and compact size won me over!
> 
> I have some questions though and im not sure if this is the proper thread to ask
> 
> Im in a tropical country and even at night time the temps can be around 26-28c..as the windows are closed, it may even be higher
> 
> 5820k running on stock
> 
> my temps
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> my current setup
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> my planned setup
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My objectives are
> 
> 1. lower temps if its not optimal and correct any mistakes in my fan setup
> 2. lower volume if at all possible. I can hear the fans whirring when gaming (if I put my headphone off, or say im running heaven benchmark)
> 
> instead of the planned fan changes, would any of the following make more sense?
> 
> 1. change setup in corsair link? how?
> 2. Get GPU to turn fans on at a lower temp? Not yet sure when the fan spins on the GTX1080 but from the photo it seems even at 45c the gpu fan is still idle
> 
> thanks!


I don't use little sailboat stuff, but your CPU is only 5c and GPU 16c above ambient in the images you posted. You are heating your case with the radiator .. turning the temps inside your case into an oven by pre-heating your already hot living environment air with the radiator to even higher temps.







I would kick you again but it's to hot for me to even move!







Move your radiator from front intake to top exhaust.

You might find some of the guides and info in "Ways to Better Cooling" linked in my sig of interest. 1st post is index, click on topic to see it. 5th post is good place to start. If you have a remote probe thermometer you can check the temperature of air going into GPU and see how much hotter it is then room. What I use is at end of 5th post or 2nd post. `


----------



## pez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *.theMetal*
> 
> Gotcha, and yes these tempered glass cases prompt much spending, they are super sexy. I'm wondering if they have an ITX with glass in their future plans.


I keep wondering the same. At the very least it means the GF will be getting a surprise case upgrade







.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *waway625*
> 
> I was planning to get a Jonsbo UMX4 but the Phanteks P400 TG internals and compact size won me over!
> 
> I have some questions though and im not sure if this is the proper thread to ask
> 
> Im in a tropical country and even at night time the temps can be around 26-28c..as the windows are closed, it may even be higher
> 
> 5820k running on stock
> 
> my temps
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> my current setup
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> my planned setup
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My objectives are
> 
> 1. lower temps if its not optimal and correct any mistakes in my fan setup
> 2. lower volume if at all possible. I can hear the fans whirring when gaming (if I put my headphone off, or say im running heaven benchmark)
> 
> instead of the planned fan changes, would any of the following make more sense?
> 
> 1. change setup in corsair link? how?
> 2. Get GPU to turn fans on at a lower temp? Not yet sure when the fan spins on the GTX1080 but from the photo it seems even at 45c the gpu fan is still idle
> 
> thanks!


You have no fresh air intake. Literally none. You are heating the air blowing into your case and wondering why your GPU is running hot.









My thoughts on your objectives....

1. Move the radiator to top exhaust. Put the Phanteks fan back into the rear exhaust spot and buy two Phanteks F140MP fans for intake and two for the rad. Use the AF120 and SP140 in a capacity where they are more useful.....like, as drink coasters. What possessed you to downgrade fans in the first place?

2. Lower volume with a Corsair CLC....that relies on heavy airflow to work efficiently since they skimped on the radiator, pump and block....that just doesn't happen. You may be able to knock off a dB or two changing fans, but performance scales down with the noise. And then spending money on fans is throwing good money after bad. You wind up with a $160 CLC that performs like a $50 air cooler with more noise.

Changing Corsair Link isn't going to help while you are blowing hot air on the GPU, and changing the GPU fans is just going to add noise.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> You have no fresh air intake. Literally none. You are heating the air blowing into your case and wondering why your GPU is running hot.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My thoughts on your objectives....
> 
> 1. Move the radiator to top exhaust. Put the Phanteks fan back into the rear exhaust spot and buy two Phanteks F140MP fans for intake and two for the rad. Use the AF120 and SP140 in a capacity where they are more useful.....like, as drink coasters. What possessed you to downgrade fans in the first place?
> 
> 2. Lower volume with a Corsair CLC....that relies on heavy airflow to work efficiently since they skimped on the radiator, pump and block....that just doesn't happen. You may be able to knock off a dB or two changing fans, but performance scales down with the noise. And then spending money on fans is throwing good money after bad. You wind up with a $160 CLC that performs like a $50 air cooler with more noise.
> 
> Changing Corsair Link isn't going to help while you are blowing hot air on the GPU, and changing the GPU fans is just going to add noise.


Indeed!








But I would only use the 2x front intakes and now rear exhaust fan to keep the filtered intake airflow at higher level then radiator exhaust out the top. This will mean that the slight difference between intake and exaust levels will leak out the PCIe slot vents, fan vent and other holes in case rather than have rear exhaust increasing the case airflow to more than filtered front intakes are bringing into case and resulting in dusty air coming in thorugh PCIe slot vents and other holes in case.


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> I don't use little sailboat stuff, but your CPU is only 5c and GPU 16c above ambient in the images you posted. You are heating your case with the radiator .. turning the temps inside your case into an oven by pre-heating your already hot living environment air with the radiator to even higher temps.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I would kick you again but it's to hot for me to even move!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Move your radiator from front intake to top exhaust.
> 
> You might find some of the guides and info in "Ways to Better Cooling" linked in my sig of interest. 1st post is index, click on topic to see it. 5th post is good place to start. If you have a remote probe thermometer you can check the temperature of air going into GPU and see how much hotter it is then room. What I use is at end of 5th post or 2nd post. `


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> You have no fresh air intake. Literally none. You are heating the air blowing into your case and wondering why your GPU is running hot.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My thoughts on your objectives....
> 
> 1. Move the radiator to top exhaust. Put the Phanteks fan back into the rear exhaust spot and buy two Phanteks F140MP fans for intake and two for the rad. Use the AF120 and SP140 in a capacity where they are more useful.....like, as drink coasters. What possessed you to downgrade fans in the first place?
> 
> 2. Lower volume with a Corsair CLC....that relies on heavy airflow to work efficiently since they skimped on the radiator, pump and block....that just doesn't happen. You may be able to knock off a dB or two changing fans, but performance scales down with the noise. And then spending money on fans is throwing good money after bad. You wind up with a $160 CLC that performs like a $50 air cooler with more noise.
> 
> Changing Corsair Link isn't going to help while you are blowing hot air on the GPU, and changing the GPU fans is just going to add noise.


I am missing something here? I was under the impression that the P400 did not support top mounted radiators due to lack of clearance between the top and the motherboard and the fact that the fan mounts on top are not offset.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rfarmer*
> 
> I am missing something here? I was under the impression that the P400 did not support top mounted radiators due to lack of clearance between the top and the motherboard and the fact that the fan mounts on top are not offset.


Good point. Then we will leave it at "bad cooler choice if you are looking for good GPU temps and quiet".


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rfarmer*
> 
> I am missing something here? I was under the impression that the P400 did not support top mounted radiators due to lack of clearance between the top and the motherboard and the fact that the fan mounts on top are not offset.


No, it is me who is missing something .. like a brain.








You could try using top and back as intake and front as exhaust. I can't see how it could be worse then what you now have, and I it may give you lower GPU temps.


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Good point. Then we will leave it at "bad cooler choice if you are looking for good GPU temps and quiet".


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> No, it is me who is missing something .. like a brain.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You could try using top and back as intake and front as exhaust. I can't see how it could be worse then what you now have, and I it may give you lower GPU temps.


Yeah I remember reading several reviews when the P400 was released and the biggest complaint was the lack of top radiator support, thought maybe something had changed.


----------



## madweazl

Refilled with PrimoChill True Sky Blue


__
https://flic.kr/p/RcJWeG


----------



## mrpurplehawk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *madweazl*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Refilled with PrimoChill True Sky Blue
> 
> 
> __
> https://flic.kr/p/RcJWeG


----------



## MoDeNa

Hi all,

I posted this in the EvolV ATX specific thread within the WC subforum, but I think it should be here as well. Surfing on the net searching top mods for the Phanteks Enthoo EvolV ATX Tempered Glass case to improve my rig temperartures finally I decided to go one step further and design mine, as many of you guys did before.

Using the same config, of course, I have to say that the gain is much noticiable, specially with configs with AIO kits or radiators in top, with a decrease of around 12º - 15º Celsius in my processor temperatures, and an overall improvement to the other components.

I would like to recommend Phanteks that they could offer as an accesory a similar top panel, in order to satisfy this case customers and potential ones, because, actually, in my opinion, this is the best good looking case in the market.

My rig specs:

i7 5820K @ 4,0 GHz
Corsair H110 GTX
Asus X99A - USB 3.1
16 GB RAM DDR4 Kingston Hyper X 2.667 MHz
SLI Geforce GTX 1070 Founders Edition
Samsung SSD 850 EVO 500GB
2 x Western Digital Red Nas 2 TB
Seasonic Platinum 1200w

These are the pictures of the build and the mod:


















































































Kind regards,


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MoDeNa*
> 
> Hi all,
> 
> I posted this in the EvolV ATX specific thread within the WC subforum, but I think it should be here as well. Surfing on the net searching top mods for the Phanteks Enthoo EvolV ATX Tempered Glass case to improve my rig temperartures finally I decided to go one step further and design mine, as many of you guys did before.
> 
> Using the same config, of course, I have to say that the gain is much noticiable, specially with configs with AIO kits or radiators in top, with a decrease of around 12º - 15º Celsius in my processor temperatures, and an overall improvement to the other components.
> 
> I would like to recommend Phanteks that they could offer as an accesory a similar top panel, in order to satisfy this case customers and potential ones, because, actually, in my opinion, this is the best good looking case in the market.
> 
> My rig specs:
> 
> i7 5820K @ 4,0 GHz
> Corsair H110 GTX
> Asus X99A - USB 3.1
> 16 GB RAM DDR4 Kingston Hyper X 2.667 MHz
> SLI Geforce GTX 1070 Founders Edition
> Samsung SSD 850 EVO 500GB
> 2 x Western Digital Red Nas 2 TB
> Seasonic Platinum 1200w
> 
> These are the pictures of the build and the mod:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Kind regards,


Wow that is an incredible build and an amazing job on the top mod, you ought to sell those. I am sure you would get a lot of takers.


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rfarmer*
> 
> Wow that is an incredible build and an amazing job on the top mod, you ought to sell those. I am sure you would get a lot of takers.


Sign me up!


----------



## Jsunn

Hello All,

I am looking at the Phanteks Enthoo Elvov TG and the watercooling kit I am going to get is the EK-Kit X360. The radiator is EK-CoolStream XE 360, and the dimension are 400mm x 130mm x 60mm (L x W x H).

I want to mount the radiator up top, but want to make sure if it will fit. Does anyone have experience with a rad this size in this case?

Thanks,
Jason


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jsunn*
> 
> Hello All,
> 
> I am looking at the Phanteks Enthoo Elvov TG and the watercooling kit I am going to get is the EK-Kit X360. The radiator is EK-CoolStream XE 360, and the dimension are 400mm x 130mm x 60mm (L x W x H).
> 
> I want to mount the radiator up top, but want to make sure if it will fit. Does anyone have experience with a rad this size in this case?
> 
> Thanks,
> Jason


360mm EK rads fit in the Evolv ATX top with no issue. However, a 60mm rad with fans will hang down in front of the CPU block, and since that rad needs two sets of fans to work effectively, you will essentially block most of the CPU block. You are better off with a 45mm rad with one set of fans. Not only for fitment, but also because it will perform better at tolerable noise levels.


----------



## geriatricpollywog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> 360mm EK rads fit in the Evolv ATX top with no issue. However, a 60mm rad with fans will hang down in front of the CPU block, and since that rad needs two sets of fans to work effectively, you will essentially block most of the CPU block. You are better off with a 45mm rad with one set of fans. Not only for fitment, but also because it will perform better at tolerable noise levels.


Agree completely. There are ways to cram a lot of radiator in this case. Some require a lot of work with a Dremmel. If you want to go that route, check out the build in my signature and I'll tell you how to fit 5 radiators.

If you don't want to modify anything, I suggest:

EK CE280 Front push/pull
EK PE360 Top push only


----------



## paskowitz

Welp, I think my Phanteks RGB strips or RGB controller just malfunctioned. I have lost the ability to display red colors... which is oddly specific. When I try to enable red/yellow/orange, the strips don't illuminate. More concerning is when I set the controller to color fade mode and it gets to the r/y/o section, I can hear a quite audible hissing/buzzing noise and the lights go off and then start on white.

It is likely the controller but TBH I am not sure. I have also had issues with my front USB ports. When 1 port is populated the other port has a spotty connection. For example if I put in my wireless keyboard receiver in port 1, port 2 will cause a USB drive to cut in and out.

Hopefully, these are easy fixes. Anyone else have these issues?


----------



## The Ferret

On a recommendation, I am just asking in here as well for some help.

I have got the Phantek Enthoo Evolv and it is beautiful!









The only downside is that I am finding it very hard to shift warm air out of the case, especially with the front panel on. (Probably my fault for buying a 7700k and case on a sudden desire)

The current setup is:


Back 2 are exhausts at 60% min, and front 2 are intakes at 60% min, along with blocking the unused holes on the top.

Temperatures are on the high side while gaming (60c CPU and 70c GPU) but that is while my room is below standard room temp (Winter in north UK) so I am terrified for summer.

Would it be better to find a water cooling loop so I can move my GPU up another PCI slot.

Lovely case, but just at a bit of a loss and rather nervous for the warmer days.

Cheers,


----------



## madweazl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The Ferret*
> 
> On a recommendation, I am just asking in here as well for some help.
> 
> I have got the Phantek Enthoo Evolv and it is beautiful!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The only downside is that I am finding it very hard to shift warm air out of the case, especially with the front panel on. (Probably my fault for buying a 7700k and case on a sudden desire)
> 
> The current setup is:
> 
> 
> Back 2 are exhausts at 60% min, and front 2 are intakes at 60% min, along with blocking the unused holes on the top.
> 
> Temperatures are on the high side while gaming (60c CPU and 70c GPU) but that is while my room is below standard room temp (Winter in north UK) so I am terrified for summer.
> 
> Would it be better to find a water cooling loop so I can move my GPU up another PCI slot.
> 
> Lovely case, but just at a bit of a loss and rather nervous for the warmer days.
> 
> Cheers,


Why did you close the top? Convection will take a lot of heat out of the top of the tower.


----------



## geriatricpollywog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The Ferret*
> 
> On a recommendation, I am just asking in here as well for some help.
> 
> I have got the Phantek Enthoo Evolv and it is beautiful!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The only downside is that I am finding it very hard to shift warm air out of the case, especially with the front panel on. (Probably my fault for buying a 7700k and case on a sudden desire)
> 
> The current setup is:
> 
> 
> Back 2 are exhausts at 60% min, and front 2 are intakes at 60% min, along with blocking the unused holes on the top.
> 
> Temperatures are on the high side while gaming (60c CPU and 70c GPU) but that is while my room is below standard room temp (Winter in north UK) so I am terrified for summer.
> 
> Would it be better to find a water cooling loop so I can move my GPU up another PCI slot.
> 
> Lovely case, but just at a bit of a loss and rather nervous for the warmer days.
> 
> Cheers,


Make a tunnel of fans from the CPU cooler to the rear fan. Or use tape/duct to make a tunnel.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *madweazl*
> 
> Why did you close the top? Convection will take a lot of heat out of the top of the tower.


The Evolv is not a 'normal' case. The radiator/fan tray in the top a one size fits all applications and is full of holes .. all of which combine to allow airflow from any fans or radiator used allow airflow to move through them much easier then the case top vents. This caused the air to circle back into or back out of motherboard compartment rather than flow on through or out of the case.
Convection is a myth that is not true in any application involving fans like we have in cases. Even a very weak fan easily overcomes any effect that "heated air rises" has.

I suggested The Ferret (hopefully not the Budweiser ferret) post here in hopes someone has resolved the same problems in an Evolv ATX he is having.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *madweazl*
> 
> Why did you close the top? Convection will take a lot of heat out of the top of the tower.


Not on an Evolv ATX...... Anyone who has used one extensively will happily (or not so happily) let you know that the top is extremely restrictive.


----------



## FXformat

Wow, guys to be honest i've never thought this was a high quality brand until i got myself an Evolv today. I've been spoiled with Lian Li cases so it was hard for me to buy another brand but after getting my hands on an Evolv, i gotta say, beautiful craftsmanship. I've got big plans for it, including modding the front panel and possibly the top panel to allow more air flow. I love how the door swings out and the back and top pops out, but stays solidly locked once u close them. Really kicking myself in the face for not buying this case sooner.



This is currently my battlestation, i will build a stand for the case next to my desk when i'm done..


----------



## madweazl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> The Evolv is not a 'normal' case. The radiator/fan tray in the top a one size fits all applications and is full of holes .. all of which combine to allow airflow from any fans or radiator used allow airflow to move through them much easier then the case top vents. This caused the air to circle back into or back out of motherboard compartment rather than flow on through or out of the case.
> Convection is a myth that is not true in any application involving fans like we have in cases. Even a very weak fan easily overcomes any effect that "heated air rises" has.
> 
> I suggested The Ferret (hopefully not the Budweiser ferret) post here in hopes someone has resolved the same problems in an Evolv ATX he is having.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Not on an Evolv ATX...... Anyone who has used one extensively will happily (or not so happily) let you know that the top is extremely restrictive.


Hmm, closing the top actually leads to better temperatures? Even with fans in "pull" up there?


----------



## Gorhell

Hi Guys

Would like to ask if thermaltake lumi color 256c rgb is compatible with evolv ATX TG and on the RGB Connector in the back. I would like to connect it and did not want to use the included controller to the lumi.

http://www.thermaltakeusa.com/products-model.aspx?id=C_00002810


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *madweazl*
> 
> Hmm, closing the top actually leads to better temperatures? Even with fans in "pull" up there?


It's not 'closing the top' It is dividing the top compartment from motherboard compartment to stop air moving through the fan/fans on radiator so the air in top compartment is forced out case vents instead of circling back through the open holes radiator / fan tray to where it came from.
With radiator is blocking the unused openings in tray keeps heated air from circling through them and back into radiator.
With case fans blocking the opening in tray makes fan pull air in through or push air out top vents rather than allow air to circle back through unused openings.


----------



## seanbarkley

Hey there! Leave you some pictures of my last update here: new GPU, monitor and CPU cooler.




Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## xTesla1856

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seanbarkley*
> 
> Hey there! Leave you some pictures of my last update here: new GPU, monitor and CPU cooler.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Beautiful build! Also reminded me to take some proper pictures of my own build !


----------



## III-Method-III

Nice looking (and v clean) build SeanBarkley.

Mind if i ask you how that X62 Kraken is performing temps wise for you? What CPU is it and what OC are you running on it?

Cheers for a reply

Methy


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seanbarkley*
> 
> Hey there! Leave you some pictures of my last update here: new GPU, monitor and CPU cooler.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Looks very nice. What is the air temp inside of case and in room near case? More specifically, what is air temp going into GPU when CPU is working hard?


----------



## levibaker88

Apologise if it's been mentioned( I went back ten pages and nothing), but is there a release date or at least more images to oogle over for the updated/upgraded Evolv mATX that was show cased at CES?


----------



## AyyMD

I'm finally joining this cool kitty club thanks to my new Evolv TG!


----------



## FXformat

Got my build started, the first of the Riing Premium RGB fans are in, still waiting on 4 more for the top 3 and rear exhaust..



Next up are red sleeved cables, and some ambient LEDs inside.


----------



## TeslaHUN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FXformat*
> 
> Got my build started, the first of the Riing Premium RGB fans are in, still waiting on 4 more for the top 3 and rear exhaust..
> 
> 
> 
> Next up are red sleeved cables, and some ambient LEDs inside.


And new CPU cooler , i hope . This one looks ridiculously.


----------



## FXformat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TeslaHUN*
> 
> And new CPU cooler , i hope . This one looks ridiculously.


yes forgot to mention new cooler, i'm staying with an air build this time. My last few builds were on water and i'm getting too lazy to move stuff around, draining the loop each time is starting to be a burden.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TeslaHUN*
> 
> And new CPU cooler , i hope . This one looks ridiculously.


That little pancake is so fuggly it would make a maggot gag. .. almost as bad as those little sail fan fairy rings.








Sorry, it is coming along beautifully, I just hate pancake coolers .. almost as bad as little sailboat products.








Why didn't you use Phanteks LED fans?


----------



## AyyMD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> That little pancake is so fuggly it would make a maggot gag. .. almost as bad as those little sail fan fairy rings.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry, it is coming along beautifully, I just hate pancake coolers .. almost as bad as little sailboat products.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Why didn't you use Phanteks LED fans?


It's beautiful in its own way doyll, leave it alone!


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FXformat*
> 
> yes forgot to mention new cooler, i'm staying with an air build this time. My last few builds were on water and i'm getting too lazy to move stuff around, draining the loop each time is starting to be a burden.


I agree about the water bit. I am a 'born again air-head' with my 5 year pin.








I love the look of rigid tubing builds .. did my first about 15 years ago with copper tubing. But as the years went by I gradually converted back from wet to dry.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AyyMD*
> 
> It's beautiful in its own way doyll, leave it alone!


Maybe in a case with itty bitty CPU clearance, but not in this case.


----------



## FXformat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> That little pancake is so fuggly it would make a maggot gag. .. almost as bad as those little sail fan fairy rings.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry, it is coming along beautifully, I just hate pancake coolers .. almost as bad as little sailboat products.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Why didn't you use Phanteks LED fans?


Wait till i'm done









This was my last rig, I think i've got good taste..


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FXformat*
> 
> Wait till i'm done
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This was my last rig, I think i've got good taste..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


You have immaculate taste .. except when it comes to sailboats.


----------



## FXformat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> You have immaculate taste .. except when it comes to sailboats.


Lol those fans work fine, they're quiet, push good air, and looks good without being overwhelmingly bright like corsair or NZXT RGB fans..they're staying sir!









I actually decided to build in this case because i saw a rig that really caught my eyes, maybe his photography skills is good, or that it's a really clean aircooled rig, but i'm building mine to look similar..so props to this guy if he's on this thread..

I've got red cables coming too, it'll look somewhat like this.


----------



## doyll

FXformat should will be a beautiful rig when done,









What cooler are you going to use?


----------



## FXformat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> FXformat should will be a beautiful rig when done,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What cooler are you going to use?


Lol pancake style cooler. Cryorig C7, I've used it on my skylake build and I was impressed so I'm using that on this AMD build. I'm only building in AMD because I won "battlestation of the year" contest on Reddit so I won some AMD parts. I gotta say, not sure why amd gets such a bad rep, it works fine, the 8 core FX8370 at least.


----------



## AyyMD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FXformat*
> 
> Lol pancake style cooler. Cryorig C7, I've used it on my skylake build and I was impressed so I'm using that on this AMD build. I'm only building in AMD because I won "battlestation of the year" contest on Reddit so I won some AMD parts. I gotta say, not sure why amd gets such a bad rep, it works fine, the 8 core FX8370 at least.


If you haven't bought the C7, I suggest the PH-TC12LS instead.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FXformat*
> 
> Lol pancake style cooler. Cryorig C7, I've used it on my skylake build and I was impressed so I'm using that on this AMD build. I'm only building in AMD because I won "battlestation of the year" contest on Reddit so I won some AMD parts. I gotta say, not sure why amd gets such a bad rep, it works fine, the 8 core FX8370 at least.


Really! They are call 'pancake' or 'downflow' coolers.
The work okay, but often work better if fan is reversed to pull air up and away from motherboard rather then down toward it.
http://www.overclock.net/t/1491876/ways-to-better-cooling-airflow-cooler-fan-data/0_20#post_22323763

To me they are like GPU coolers .. the design completely ignores the need of separation between heated exhaust air and cool intake air to and from the component.

A mid-size tower with case airflow front to back can easily be setup to supply air that is only a couple degrees warmer than room even when GPU and CPU are both at or near 100% load. Typical GPU coolers make it harder to keep their heated exhaust separated from cool intake air, but it can be done very well .. and when it is done air cooling becomes as effective and quiet as the very best of water cooling .. or at least very, very close.

But that's not really a Phanteks case discussion.









I wonder what a black cooler like be quiet! or maybe a Cryorig R1 with red shrouds would look like in that case .. maybe with your funky red-ringed fans on it.








Here is R1 with TY-147A fans.


But with all the white being red and fans being your ring jobbies.


----------



## FXformat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Really! They are call 'pancake' or 'downflow' coolers.
> The work okay, but often work better if fan is reversed to pull air up and away from motherboard rather then down toward it.
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1491876/ways-to-better-cooling-airflow-cooler-fan-data/0_20#post_22323763
> 
> To me they are like GPU coolers .. the design completely ignores the need of separation between heated exhaust air and cool intake air to and from the component.
> 
> A mid-size tower with case airflow front to back can easily be setup to supply air that is only a couple degrees warmer than room even when GPU and CPU are both at or near 100% load. Typical GPU coolers make it harder to keep their heated exhaust separated from cool intake air, but it can be done very well .. and when it is done air cooling becomes as effective and quiet as the very best of water cooling .. or at least very, very close.
> 
> But that's not really a Phanteks case discussion.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I wonder what a black cooler like be quiet! or maybe a Cryorig R1 with red shrouds would look like in that case .. maybe with your funky red-ringed fans on it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is R1 with TY-147A fans.
> 
> 
> But with all the white being red and fans being your ring jobbies.


The reason I went with the C7 is because it has worked for me before so if it doesn't break, don't fix it. Also I might go back to watercooling so having that cooler to shove inside an mini itx and do an HTPC build would work too. Plus it was only $29.99 ?


----------



## nycgtr

Primo owners show me something. I am about to ditch my primo and move on after 6 months. I love the case but seeing all these tempered glass cases got me itching. I have excessive rads to what I am cooling on top. I was going to get the window from mnpctech but at like 130 shipped I can go get a tempered case lol. I hardly see any pics of people with the window outside of some dude on youtube with a very ugly build (no offense to that person in particular). I just feel like I got a huge case that seems a bit backwards in 2017. Wanna stay in the primo club so show me your updated builds ppl.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nycgtr*
> 
> Primo owners show me something. I am about to ditch my primo and move on after 6 months. I love the case but seeing all these tempered glass cases got me itching. I have excessive rads to what I am cooling on top. I was going to get the window from mnpctech but at like 130 shipped I can go get a tempered case lol. I hardly see any pics of people with the window outside of some dude on youtube with a very ugly build (no offense to that person in particular). I just feel like I got a huge case that seems a bit backwards in 2017. Wanna stay in the primo club so show me your updated builds ppl.


I'm not going to be any help here.....I had my Primo for a year, questioned it when I got the Luxe for review....and it was all over the moment the Evolv ATX showed up at my door step. But, I am also not of the "more is better" mindset.


----------



## nycgtr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> I'm not going to be any help here.....I had my Primo for a year, questioned it when I got the Luxe for review....and it was all over the moment the Evolv ATX showed up at my door step. But, I am also not of the "more is better" mindset.


I was very close to buying the evolv tg. However, I already see that case being a pain with airflow. I would have to cut the top and get a mesh there. The front looks restrictive too. It's a gorgeous case but it needs to be more breathable. Considering the has the same internal setup as the pro M, The pro m while much uglier is the better case to me, because of the airflow. Sad thing is if I move on I just got another huge ass case to store in my closet or somewhere. NYC space is a premium!


----------



## boredgunner

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nycgtr*
> 
> I was very close to buying the evolv tg. However, I already see that case being a pain with airflow. I would have to cut the top and get a mesh there. The front looks restrictive too. It's a gorgeous case but it needs to be more breathable. Considering the has the same internal setup as the pro M, The pro m while much uglier is the better case to me, because of the airflow.


The front isn't particularly restrictive. My GPU temps are only 4c higher than in a Corsair Carbide Air 540 using stock fans in the Evolv TG, versus two front Silverstone AP182s in the Air 540 which are 1000x louder.

Phanteks should just include a large mesh portion on the top though. It won't ruin the look and it is necessary.


----------



## nycgtr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *boredgunner*
> 
> The front isn't particularly restrictive. My GPU temps are only 4c higher than in a Corsair Carbide Air 540 using stock fans in the Evolv TG, versus two front Silverstone AP182s in the Air 540 which are 1000x louder.
> 
> Phanteks should just include a large mesh portion on the top though. It won't ruin the look and it is necessary.


I could get one and mod it but. I have no garage and would have to take it somewhere. I could dremel it myself but don't trust that for such an important piece lol.


----------



## paskowitz

Small update after my talk with Phanteks customer service:
- My LED issue was due to a faulty top panel controller (PCB). Replacement on the way.
- mATX Glass is coming in March
- Phanteks IS aware of the restrictive nature of the Evolv's top panel and is considering a modified version (bigger holes, thinner mesh)
- I gave them a link to this thread and the various helpful posts within it regard Evolv "issues". Said they would be sent along the chain.


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> Small update after my talk with Phanteks customer service:
> - My LED issue was due to a faulty top panel controller (PCB). Replacement on the way.
> - mATX Glass is coming in March
> - Phanteks IS aware of the restrictive nature of the Evolv's top panel and is considering a modified version (bigger holes, thinner mesh)
> - I gave them a link to this thread and the various helpful posts within it regard Evolv "issues". Said they would be sent along the chain.


sounds great. the Evolv top panel needs those slits to be 2x-2.5x bigger and that mesh on their cases has to go, the whole line. they need a mesh like a wire fence.


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PureBlackFire*
> 
> sounds great. the Evolv top panel needs those slits to be 2x-2.5x bigger and that mesh on their cases has to go, the whole line. they need a mesh like a wire fence.


I agree. I am not sure how easy it would be to make the top "bigger" though... manufacturing, materials and all... but they could probably cut more venting on the existing deign pretty easily. The ideal solution would be a modular top like the Elite.


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> I agree. I am not sure how easy it would be to make the top "bigger" though... manufacturing, materials and all... but they could probably cut more venting on the existing deign pretty easily. The ideal solution would be a modular top like the Elite.


they can do either, but it will cost money in tooling. they need to officially make a V2 of the Pro, Luxe, Evolv ATX and Primo. and take the suggestions from this thread as for what needs to be fixed, added, removed or updated. these cases have been out for a long time and need a refresh.


----------



## FXformat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> But with all the white being red and fans being your ring jobbies.


I bought more of the ring jobbies, hope you like them..lol, whole case is full of them now..









Cooler should be in by tomorrow or Friday.


----------



## nycgtr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nycgtr*
> 
> I could get one and mod it but. I have no garage and would have to take it somewhere.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> Small update after my talk with Phanteks customer service:
> - My LED issue was due to a faulty top panel controller (PCB). Replacement on the way.
> - mATX Glass is coming in March
> - Phanteks IS aware of the restrictive nature of the Evolv's top panel and is considering a modified version (bigger holes, thinner mesh)
> - I gave them a link to this thread and the various helpful posts within it regard Evolv "issues". Said they would be sent along the chain.


Now i dont know if i should buy the evolv tg and mod it or wait.


----------



## FXformat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nycgtr*
> 
> Now i dont know if i should buy the evolv tg and mod it or wait.


I've built in over 30 cases, and the Evolv, is by far the best looking, easiest to work with. You can find a 5" metal hole saw and cut the top if you need more ventilation, likewise with the front.


----------



## nycgtr

I was thinking of taking a dremel to the top cover then using a mesh. If i mess up phanteks can sell me another


----------



## FXformat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nycgtr*
> 
> I was thinking of taking a dremel to the top cover then using a mesh. If i mess up phanteks can sell me another


That'll take too long, i'd just drill 3x 5" holes up top with that hole saw i linked you, just measure it well and use tape as a guide...aluminum is soft, drilling won't be hard. Dremel it will be a pain, and won't ever be straight.


----------



## nycgtr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FXformat*
> 
> That'll take too long, i'd just drill 3x 5" holes up top with that hole saw i linked you, just measure it well and use tape as a guide...aluminum is soft, drilling won't be hard. Dremel it will be a pain, and won't ever be straight.


Hmm not a fan of having the hole look though. I havent cut up a case especially not a rectangle shape in ages. I could find a shop that does metal work to do it. What do you think?


----------



## FXformat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nycgtr*
> 
> Hmm not a fan of having the hole look though. I havent cut up a case especially not a rectangle shape in ages. I could find a shop that does metal work to do it. What do you think?


You don't look up top anyways, it's just there to ventilate the air out of the radiatior, you can take it to a local CNC machining shop, give them a design and they'll put it in their system and cut. Should cost around $50 per cut. I'm a DIYer, so i like to do stuff myself.


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nycgtr*
> 
> Hmm not a fan of having the hole look though. I havent cut up a case especially not a rectangle shape in ages. I could find a shop that does metal work to do it. What do you think?


http://www.overclock.net/t/1418637/official-case-phanteks-case-club-for-lovers-owners/16460#post_25793809

Check out this post, guy modded the top of his Evolv. Excellent job.


----------



## nycgtr

Anyone know if a ut60 280 would fit in the front?


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nycgtr*
> 
> Anyone know if a ut60 280 would fit in the front?


Yes, I have installed one there. It's tight at the midplate opening, but fits. You just need to use some care to keep from scratching it.


----------



## LiamG6

My Evolv ATX TG radiator pedestal is coming along nicely. Solves all my temperature problems and my PC is much quieter because my fans don't need to work so hard to keep my water delta's down (I tested it before I made the pedestal and getting the heat dumped outside of the case makes a huge difference in temps/noise).

I've fabricated this out of 3mm thick aluminium plate. I used a vice mounted brake press to bend it to shape, test fitted it and it's perfect, angles perfectly match the case, it will sit underneath the case and I'll bolt it to the case. I've already drilled drain ports through the bottom of my case under the front radiator which are now going to be the inlet/outlet for the Monsta 420 Rad in the pedestal. I'm just using the 3 stock PH-F140SP fans for now but will upgrade to 2k rpm 140mm vardars soon. I'm using 140's in push on the monsta, but could fit push/pull on a 60mm thick 360 or 420 rad.

I just have to make the cutouts in the strips of aluminium on either side of the rad for correct air flow through the fans/rad, then sand it back and paint it satin black.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LiamG6*
> 
> My Evolv ATX TG radiator pedestal is coming along nicely. Solves all my temperature problems and my PC is much quieter because my fans don't need to work so hard to keep my water delta's down (I tested it before I made the pedestal and getting the heat dumped outside of the case makes a huge difference in temps/noise).
> 
> I've fabricated this out of 3mm thick aluminium plate. I used a vice mounted brake press to bend it to shape, test fitted it and it's perfect, angles perfectly match the case, it will sit underneath the case and I'll bolt it to the case. I've already drilled drain ports through the bottom of my case under the front radiator which are now going to be the inlet/outlet for the Monsta 420 Rad in the pedestal. I'm just using the 3 stock PH-F140SP fans for now but will upgrade to 2k rpm 140mm vardars soon. I'm using 140's in push on the monsta, but could fit push/pull on a 60mm thick 360 or 420 rad.
> 
> I just have to make the cutouts in the strips of aluminium on either side of the rad for correct air flow through the fans/rad, then sand it back and paint it satin black.


Looking very nice! Great idea & design!


----------



## LiamG6

Thanks doyll, the Evolv ATX TG is a lovely case and I don't really want to cut up the front and top to fix the airflow issues, this solves my problem and looks the part.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LiamG6*
> 
> Thanks doyll, the Evolv ATX TG is a lovely case and I don't really want to cut up the front and top to fix the airflow issues, this solves my problem and looks the part.


Maybe we could get Phanteks to make an accessory radiator unit that fits under the case like yours.


----------



## nycgtr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Yes, I have installed one there. It's tight at the midplate opening, but fits. You just need to use some care to keep from scratching it.


Are you able to mount it above the midplate or does it require the midplate to be removed for either position. Thanks for the response.


----------



## AyyMD

I'm trying to figure out what to do with my 140mm Cougar Vortex when I get my Evolv (TG model), where would I put it? The Evolv already comes with every fan but the top ones, so I don't really know.


----------



## FXformat

Took me awhile to find out that the top tray slides out so you can install the fans..lol i was trying to install the fans from the top down and i'm like wth, this doesn't line up.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nycgtr*
> 
> Are you able to mount it above the midplate or does it require the midplate to be removed for either position. Thanks for the response.


I've only done it with the midplate removed as there was a 360GTS up top. I believe it fits above the midplate of there is nothing above it, but not 100% positive.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AyyMD*
> 
> I'm trying to figure out what to do with my 140mm Cougar Vortex when I get my Evolv (TG model), where would I put it? The Evolv already comes with every fan but the top ones, so I don't really know.


In a drawer? Closet? Different build?


----------



## nycgtr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> I've only done it with the midplate removed as there was a 360GTS up top. I believe it fits above the midplate of there is nothing above it, but not 100% positive.


Yea i planned on only putting a 240 on top so I got the space. I watched so many videos and I am sure the ut60 would fit in the front just wether or not the above the midplate. Space is a premium and I don't want to waste that bottom area if I don't have to.


----------



## AyyMD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> In a drawer? Closet? Different build?


No, no, no, I meant in the PC. It's my favorite fan I own, I definitely want to use it.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AyyMD*
> 
> No, no, no, I meant in the PC. It's my favorite fan I own, I definitely want to use it.


A holder on your desk for those warmer days then?


----------



## LiamG6

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Maybe we could get Phanteks to make an accessory radiator unit that fits under the case like yours.


I would love it if Phanteks started offering vented tops/fronts and a pedestal for an external radiator. I'd be happy to make these for people but I couldn't sell them for enough to be worth my time. Happy to share my plans though.


----------



## smiley424

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rfarmer*
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1418637/official-case-phanteks-case-club-for-lovers-owners/16460#post_25793809
> 
> Check out this post, guy modded the top of his Evolv. Excellent job.


The top mod is very well done there. I have been looking at the TG Evolv for the past couple weeks after looking at the Luxe and Pro M. Buy now or wait for a possible update?


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LiamG6*
> 
> I would love it if Phanteks started offering vented tops/fronts and a pedestal for an external radiator. I'd be happy to make these for people but I couldn't sell them for enough to be worth my time. Happy to share my plans though.


I know what you mean about not being able to make them for a price that is worth it. I occasionally make castor bases to match our cases. Even at $50 I only make about $10/hour or less .. and that includes shop costs .. so maybe $7.00 an hour .. and that's making a batch at a time, Making just one would be half that per hour .. maybe even less. People are always wanting bases, but I won't even start to make a batch until there is at least 6 ordered, then make 12 to 15 so it's a production like run. Individually I would have to charge $100 +


----------



## LiamG6

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> I know what you mean about not being able to make them for a price that is worth it. I occasionally make castor bases to match our cases. Even at $50 I only make about $10/hour or less .. and that includes shop costs .. so maybe $7.00 an hour .. and that's making a batch at a time, Making just one would be half that per hour .. maybe even less. People are always wanting bases, but I won't even start to make a batch until there is at least 6 ordered, then make 12 to 15 so it's a production like run. Individually I would have to charge $100 +


Yeah this pedestal is pretty labour intensive to make with hand and power tools, lots of cutting, filing, sanding, bending, drilling, tapping, painting. I don't have access to any sort of workshop that would streamline the process so there is no economy of scale for me, that's where Phanteks comes in though ;-) Or MNPC TECH


----------



## rfarmer

Anyone with a spare 24,000 pounds should pick one of these up. https://www.overclockers.co.uk/lp/8pack-orionx.html


----------



## nycgtr

Not if its gonna say 8 pack over it.


----------



## doyll

I wonder how much that '8-pack' actually costs in parts .. even at retail prices and paying an experienced builder $30-40 an hour to build it I'm betting ti's half that price, maybe less. Makes his logo way to expensive. I've asked him a few questions in the past and got the impression from his answers that he is way, way better, cooler, smarter, whiter, greener, than anyone else in normal world is. Maybe I'm wrong, but my impressions are almost always accurate.


----------



## paskowitz

Can you imagine draining and filling that thing? I for one choose death.


----------



## smithydan




----------



## Chiobe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> I wonder how much that '8-pack' actually costs in parts .. even at retail prices and paying an experienced builder $30-40 an hour to build it I'm betting ti's half that price, maybe less. Makes his logo way to expensive. I've asked him a few questions in the past and got the impression from his answers that he is way, way better, cooler, smarter, whiter, greener, than anyone else in normal world is. Maybe I'm wrong, but my impressions are almost always accurate.


All the parts are listed on the site (minus the custom parts and water cooling parts), so you can get somewhat of an idea how much premium you are paying.
But part of that premium, is getting a system overclocked by one of the record holders (I also believe he bins parts, so you get top end result).


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smithydan*


Yeah... you can't have your average YouTuber review a case like this. Kinda misses the point. As much as I don't like Jayz0Cents, he is probably one of the few people who could do a proper review.


----------



## _Killswitch_

Well I'm joining the club, I bought a Pro M to move my current pc out of an 900D, remove the watercooling, and went back to air.
It's just thrown back together to don't pay attention to the cables. Think im going to buy cables for my PSU, cable combs for neatness.
think im go gray color and a green for sleeve, some reason I want green lol


----------



## nycgtr

Okay guys. It's time to down size. My primary. Evolv tg or luxe tg. I like both but I feel the luxe is the same as my primo just smaller but not much of a down size. I feel like the evolv is going to be a really tight build with what I am fitting and concerned about airflow.


----------



## smithydan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> Yeah... you can't have your average YouTuber review a case like this. Kinda misses the point. As much as I don't like Jayz0Cents, he is probably one of the few people who could do a proper review.


Totally agree.


----------



## FXformat

I'm just about finished with my Evolv build, i'm on the fence about water cooling this or not, that empty space to the right of the case is starting to look empty...but then i remember how awful it was to keep draining and filling my loop when i change stuff.


----------



## madweazl

Any recommendations on an RGB replacement strip for the Enthoo Primo? I've found a couple links on another site but they're a few years old now. Not having much looking searching by width (apparently 6mm or less is needed).


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FXformat*
> 
> I'm just about finished with my Evolv build, i'm on the fence about water cooling this or not, that empty space to the right of the case is starting to look empty...but then i remember how awful it was to keep draining and filling my loop when i change stuff.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


looking at that core hardware the case and fans are bit premium already wouldn't you say? wouldn't water cool that gear and there should be no need to. especially with new cpu/gpus coming out you may want to change, no point locking in with blocks


----------



## Gorhell

Any recomendations too on RGB 1M Led strip placement on Evolv ATX TG? It feels ugly here


----------



## FXformat

^^^ Gotta hide them better, I have the same strip and you can't see mine because I taped it down and made it straight.


----------



## eTheBlack

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> Yeah... you can't have your average YouTuber review a case like this. Kinda misses the point. As much as I don't like Jayz0Cents, he is probably one of the few people who could do a proper review.


Did he said he didnt get one or you just assuming?
LinusTechTips also didnt release anything yet, and I'm pretty sure he got one. He is like biggest of all of them. Not mentioning Paul and Kyle


----------



## smiley424

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FXformat*
> 
> I'm just about finished with my Evolv build, i'm on the fence about water cooling this or not, that empty space to the right of the case is starting to look empty...but then i remember how awful it was to keep draining and filling my loop when i change stuff.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Build looks awesome. What fans are you using in front and did they mount easily or did you have to do a little modding of the front? I'm transfering my current air cooled setup into an Evolv ATX TG.


----------



## smiley424

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *_Killswitch_*
> 
> Well I'm joining the club, I bought a Pro M to move my current pc out of an 900D, remove the watercooling, and went back to air.
> It's just thrown back together to don't pay attention to the cables. Think im going to buy cables for my PSU, cable combs for neatness.
> think im go gray color and a green for sleeve, some reason I want green lol
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Nice setup. Is that the acrylic window Pro M or tempered glass? I'm considering the Pro M TG or the Evolv ATX TG, but with the Pro M TG's price on Amazon, after buying 2 fans for the front intake, the price difference between the two is like $20-$30.


----------



## PetrasSukys

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *madweazl*
> 
> Any recommendations on an RGB replacement strip for the Enthoo Primo? I've found a couple links on another site but they're a few years old now. Not having much looking searching by width (apparently 6mm or less is needed).


Actually I used the same links from those posts and found the required strips. One is already test fitted in my primo. PM if want more details


----------



## Testing12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FXformat*
> 
> I'm just about finished with my Evolv build, i'm on the fence about water cooling this or not, that empty space to the right of the case is starting to look empty...but then i remember how awful it was to keep draining and filling my loop when i change stuff.




Just wondering about the white pci-e slot covers on your Evolv ATX. Did you paint them, or...?

Thanks


----------



## PureBlackFire

^ the non tempered glass Evolv comes with white fans and white slot covers.


----------



## Testing12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PureBlackFire*
> 
> ^ the non tempered glass Evolv comes with white fans and white slot covers.


Ah... I hadn't noticed that. Guess I've been looking at only the TG versions.

Thanks!


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PureBlackFire*
> 
> ^ the non tempered glass Evolv comes with white fans and white slot covers.


Odd....my slot covers are black on my Evolv ATX. Fans are white, though (and a fair bit better than anything with little light up rings......







).


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Odd....my slot covers are black on my Evolv ATX. Fans are white, though (and a fair bit better than anything with little light up rings......
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ).


sorry, seems I needed to be more specific. the black Evolv ATX has white on black like fractal design cases. the grey and silver have black slot covers and all the TG versions have black fans and slot covers.


----------



## FXformat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Odd....my slot covers are black on my Evolv ATX. Fans are white, though (and a fair bit better than anything with little light up rings......
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ).


Why everyone hating on my fans







I love them, sure thermalfakes have a bad rep but these are the only thing they make that isn't complete poop. I use them in my watercooled builds too and they work well for the radiator.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Odd....my slot covers are black on my Evolv ATX. Fans are white, though (and a fair bit better than anything with little light up rings......
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ).


My Evolv has black PCIe slot covers and F140SP fans like specifications show. But I know for several months now new ones do not have F140SP fans, whith no changes in specifications.

Seems Phantek makes changes in models with no notice leaveing us in the dark until we open the box. I don't like it. My thought is if they make a change .. like the fan change from F140SP to whatever the hell this new one with MP like blade design is, they should be labeled with a new model number and specifications should be published so we know the specifications in advertising are what we will be getting. I also have a rather selfish motivation in that when people ask about a specific product it makes it damn hard to hlep them, but that's not my only motivation. This not being up front with us about model changes means we don't know what we are buying .. seems kinda like false advertising to spec one thing and deliver something else. Definitely not good for cusotmer relations. But I guess it is what it is. With all these changes, how do we know what anything they are advertising is going to be? Will the new Elite be what we see in advertising and first batch reviewer cases? Or are there going to be changes in Elite too? I really expected better from Phanteks.


----------



## GamersCare

How does the RGB work in the P400? What hookups does it have to power it and control what color it is?


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FXformat*
> 
> Why everyone hating on my fans
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I love them, sure thermalfakes have a bad rep but these are the only thing they make that isn't complete poop. I use them in my watercooled builds too and they work well for the radiator.


While you say they "work well", those of us who have used GTs, eLoops, Phanteks SP and MP series, Vardars, Shadow Wings 3, ML120s,Thermalrights, etc, etc, etc, and done actual controlled tests with them would tend to wholly disagree with that statement. Sorry, but I look at it, I just see the fans downgraded, pointed in directions to make actual airflow impossible, and three fans curiously mounted in a spot where they can do very little good. It is a matter of perception and priorities. You see light up rings that you like, people who have used and tested a lot of fans see mediocre (at best) fans in a place where very good fans once resided. I mean, I guess the upside is that at least they aren't Corsair AF series....or SP, for that matter.


----------



## PureBlackFire

those Riing fans are fine on low resistance rads. they move a pitiful volume of air as case fans though.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PureBlackFire*
> 
> those Riing fans are fine on low resistance rads. they move a pitiful volume of air as case fans though.


To me it's more
"They are not good fans, but if there is almost no airflow resistance on radiators they are being used on they manage to get some air through them"


----------



## nycgtr

evolv atx tg coming tmr. Guess I am staying in the phanteks famiy


----------



## iandroo888

sighhhh saw the elite.... and was like oooh the perfect case *checks price* shiet.... nvm T_T so sad !


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PureBlackFire*
> 
> those Riing fans are fine on low resistance rads. they move a pitiful volume of air as case fans though.


You have the F120MP, GT, eLoop, Vardar and more all in the same price range. Given that.....are they still "fine"? Or are they simply "one of the weakest performers at the price point....but when used in a sort of specific way, they aren't wholly useless just a lot worse than most others in the price range"?


----------



## KoolDrew

Anyone here use the Enthoo Evolv ITX? Right now it's a toss up between that and the Fractal Design Nano S right now for my ITX HTPC build.


----------



## Sazexa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KoolDrew*
> 
> Anyone here use the Enthoo Evolv ITX? Right now it's a toss up between that and the Fractal Design Nano S right now for my ITX HTPC build.


I've done a few builds in the Evolv ITX. It's a great case. The Nano S is a bit smaller though, if size is a worry.


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KoolDrew*
> 
> Anyone here use the Enthoo Evolv ITX? Right now it's a toss up between that and the Fractal Design Nano S right now for my ITX HTPC build.


You might actually consider a Fractal Node 304, if you are building a HTPC you can put a lot more drives in the Node.


----------



## prava

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PureBlackFire*
> 
> ^ the non tempered glass Evolv comes with white fans and white slot covers.


No, that depends on the colour of the case.

My Galaxy silver is full black on the inside. That includes fans and slot covers.


----------



## Testing12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *prava*
> 
> No, that depends on the colour of the case.
> 
> My Galaxy silver is full black on the inside. That includes fans and slot covers.


Ok, now this is just getting confusing!
If I wanted white slot covers, I guess I could just call Phanteks and ask them.


----------



## KoolDrew

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rfarmer*
> 
> You might actually consider a Fractal Node 304, if you are building a HTPC you can put a lot more drives in the Node.


Thanks for the suggestion. I looked at that case but my current plan is to build a back-end server for Plex, backups, etc. and a lightweight front-end gaming/HTPC that runs Plex client and games/emulators, using Steam In-Home Streaming for stuff the HTPC can't handle. So storage for the HTPC won't be a huge concern. I'll keep the Node 304 in mind when I get around to building the back-end server. For now I have all my media stored on my main PC with Plex server.


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KoolDrew*
> 
> Thanks for the suggestion. I looked at that case but my current plan is to build a back-end server for Plex, backups, etc. and a lightweight front-end gaming/HTPC that runs Plex client and games/emulators, using Steam In-Home Streaming for stuff the HTPC can't handle. So storage for the HTPC won't be a huge concern. I'll keep the Node 304 in mind when I get around to building the back-end server. For now I have all my media stored on my main PC with Plex server.


My last case was an Evolv itx and it is a great case, especially at the price. Has a nice layout, good cable management, good component support and good watercooling options. It would work well for a light gaming case. There are some really good options for itx motherboards atm too.


----------



## nycgtr

I just got the evolv atx in and I have a question. I have 2 reservoirs and I am not looking to buy a 3rd. With my front rad being a UT60 I dont have space for a reservoir there. Now I can mount it on the floor or along the back. However, with either the 150ml and 250ml bitspower watertanks I have, the rear fan is going to have to be taken out. I've seen builds without a rear fan. I plan on running 2 140s in the front and 2 120s on top (attched to a xpsc v3 240). This is my first non full/ultra tower, and I am concerned about air flow without a rear fan. I would prefer to mount the reservoir on the rear but I can floor mount if needed. Anyone have any input on how much of a difference the rear fan would make?


----------



## Chiobe

The Mod Zoo - "Weekly Hangout Episode 44: PHANTEKS ": 



Might be interesting.


----------



## doyll

Chiobe, you beat me to it.









Mod Zoo Staffers, Droug, Bill and Captain Currysauce chat with Phanteks Product Development Manager, Boon about Phanteks case development from the first Primo to the upcoming Elite and what Phanteks is looking to do in the future. Very good discussions.

Bill asking Boon "Where do you see Phanteks 10 years from now?" Considering Phanteks is only about 7 years old now, the Phanteks startup team had 20+ years of experience, 10 years more years is a really really long time from now! Phanteks first release was the PH-TC14PE in 2011 and Enthoo Primo was in 2013. 10 years from now is a a long long way from now.

I really like the idea of Phanteks becoming an H2O component source.









It's a long listen, but lots and lots of good info about Phanteks' past, present and future history and plans. Well worth listening / watching. Mod Zoo (Bill and crew) do some great talks.


----------



## Dorito Bandit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FXformat*
> 
> Wow, guys to be honest i've never thought this was a high quality brand until i got myself an Evolv today. I've been spoiled with Lian Li cases so it was hard for me to buy another brand but after getting my hands on an Evolv, i gotta say, beautiful craftsmanship. I've got big plans for it, including modding the front panel and possibly the top panel to allow more air flow. I love how the door swings out and the back and top pops out, but stays solidly locked once u close them. Really kicking myself in the face for not buying this case sooner.
> 
> 
> 
> This is currently my battlestation, i will build a stand for the case next to my desk when i'm done..


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seanbarkley*
> 
> Hey there! Leave you some pictures of my last update here: new GPU, monitor and CPU cooler.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Nice and clean setup, FXformat. I love it!

And seanbarkley, your build is sweet as hell! Being a huge Dawg fan, I love the red & black color theme. Well done!


----------



## jura11

Hi guys

Currently have Phanteks Enthoo Primo,360mm 60mm thick rad on top and 240mm 60mm thick rad on bottom and thinking putting at front extra 240mm rad 30mm thick, I know is possible but in my case I have fully populated both HDD cages and not sure if its possible putting there radiator and have both cages there?

Thanks, Jura


----------



## FXformat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dorito Bandit*
> 
> Nice and clean setup, FXformat. I love it!
> 
> And seanbarkley, your build is sweet as hell! Being a huge Dawg fan, I love the red & black color theme. Well done!


Thanks! Someone bought that setup already though, i'm working on a triple monitor setup now. I'll be done in a few days, waiting on some cable management parts from Amazon.


----------



## nycgtr

Took forever to even figure out the layout for this case with the parts I had. Ended up having to use an old slim rad I had in the front. Not really a fan of that, but I have so many radiators it's hard to justify buying another 240 just for this case. I dont like the bend coming from the gpu to the top rad. Any suggestions on how to make it look nicer? Nothing too complicated I have very little experience bending. This is somewhat my first real effort at hardline.


----------



## AyyMD

I fell in love with my new Enthoo EVOLV.


----------



## pez

Bit of unfortunate news for me







. Phanteks has decided to phase out the PH-TC14CS. Not a loss to most here as there's not many Phanteks cases that a larger or better cooler fits into, but was sad to see this







.


----------



## royfrosty

Did any one of you used the Enthoo Evolv TG and did custom water cooling on it? How did the temperatures went for you guys?

For me, sadly i have to forgo the entire case and went with the Lian Li PC-O11 instead. I had the Enthoo Evolv TG case for about 5 months plus, but wasn't happy with the temperature and airflow.

I was using the Hardware Labs Nemesis GTS 360 rad on top, and GTX 240 rad at the front. Together with all push fan config GT AP-29. Temperature gets hotter and hotter as whenever i game for a couple of hours.

Ambient temps for my room were at 29degC. Idle was fine, my overclocked 5820k (4.5ghz 1.265v) and GTX 1080 went over 76degC when gaming. Kinda pointless for me to go into custom liquid cooling. Back then i was using dual r9 Fury X, which temperatures were so hot that i cannot overclock my CPU and it did went over 79degC.


----------



## Gorhell

Hi Guys question to all Evolv ATX TG users. can we put a 4 fans on my kraken X52 and install it on the top panel? I got awful temps on my setup


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gorhell*
> 
> Hi Guys question to all Evolv ATX TG users. can we put a 4 fans on my kraken X52 and install it on the top panel? I got awful temps on my setup


Running push/pull on slim rads does nothing but add noise. Even on inefficient aluminum rads.

You'll need to be a little more specific about what you have going on. What fans in what locations flowing which way, components, etc. And the big question....did you isolate the X52 so it is actually exhausting air rather than simply recirculating air to itself, which would cause it to simply keep getting warmer as time progresses?


----------



## Gorhell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Running push/pull on slim rads does nothing but add noise. Even on inefficient aluminum rads.
> 
> You'll need to be a little more specific about what you have going on. What fans in what locations flowing which way, components, etc. And the big question....did you isolate the X52 so it is actually exhausting air rather than simply recirculating air to itself, which would cause it to simply keep getting warmer as time progresses?


It's open. How can I do the blocked opening part?


----------



## PetrasSukys

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gorhell*
> 
> It's open. How can I do the blocked opening part?


Easy and cheap: cardboard and sticky tape


----------



## Gorhell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PetrasSukys*
> 
> Easy and cheap: cardboard and sticky tape


Thanks a little off topic does the stock fan of kraken X52 is better or should I replace it with Corsair SP 120MM High performance?


----------



## PetrasSukys

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gorhell*
> 
> Thanks a little off topic does the stock fan of kraken X52 is better or should I replace it with Corsair SP 120MM High performance?


I would probably stick with stock ones. If any, there would be just marginal improvements. Prepare for incoming flak for even considering Corsair fans


----------



## Gorhell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PetrasSukys*
> 
> I would probably stick with stock ones. If any, there would be just marginal improvements. Prepare for incoming flak for even considering Corsair fans


Thank you! will put those cardboard and tapes now


----------



## beerybonce

I use the Corsair ML120 because they can spin really slowly if needed. They're also pretty in white LED. You really should go for fans with a low rev floor e.g. 400rpm if possible. You have an issue if any of your fans need to spin at more than 1400 for long periods.


----------



## beerybonce

I think I've seen a previous post use aluminium foil?


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PetrasSukys*
> 
> I would probably stick with stock ones. If any, there would be just marginal improvements. Prepare for incoming flak for even considering Corsair fans


Now, now....that only applies to AF and SP series. And only because they are overpriced and pretty awful. The ML120 is a top notch fan.


----------



## pez

A good insulation would probably be best. Noise dampening foam for cases comes to mind as a really good solution. Will also serve a dual purpose







.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Running push/pull on slim rads does nothing but add noise. Even on inefficient aluminum rads.
> 
> You'll need to be a little more specific about what you have going on. What fans in what locations flowing which way, components, etc. And the big question....did you isolate the X52 so it is actually exhausting air rather than simply recirculating air to itself, which would cause it to simply keep getting warmer as time progresses?


What ciarlatano said!







Once all open holes are blocked off things run much cooler.

Removing the top mounting screws popping the top off and just setting it on unclipped almost triples the top vent area.








http://www.overclock.net/t/1418637/official-case-phanteks-case-club-for-lovers-owners/13240_20#post_25198233

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gorhell*
> 
> It's open. How can I do the blocked opening part?


Honestly, if you cannot figure out how to block the openings with tape and paper or any of many other ways you probably have nearby, you should not be allowed near anything that is not padded to protect you fron injury.


----------



## Gorhell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> What ciarlatano said!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once all open holes are blocked off things run much cooler.
> 
> Removing the top mounting screws popping the top off and just setting it on unclipped almost triples the top vent area.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1418637/official-case-phanteks-case-club-for-lovers-owners/13240_20#post_25198233
> Honestly, if you cannot figure out how to block the openings with tape and paper or any of many other ways you probably have nearby, you should not be allowed near anything that is not padded to protect you fron injury.


Hahaha I only assume there is another way that is better than tape and cardboard.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pez*
> 
> A good insulation would probably be best. Noise dampening foam for cases comes to mind as a really good solution. Will also serve a dual purpose
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


I'm assuming you are talking about sound dampening, not heat insulation.








Sound dampening can help in thin steel sided cases, but the thick aluminum panels (or TG) do not resonate much sound through them .. if any. Vibrarion might resonate, and to stop that use the rubber screws/mounting pins. The sound comes out through the vents and the only thing that can be done to quiet that is use quieter fans.


----------



## Gorhell

I just block all openings in radiator mount using cardboard and electrical tape and stil my temps didn't change that much

Open Radiator Mount Holes:



Blocked Radiator Mount Holes:


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gorhell*
> 
> I just block all openings in radiator mount using cardboard and electrical tape and stil my temps didn't change that much


There are no opening between motherboard compartment and top compartment?
What do temps do if you leave the top of case off?


----------



## pez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> I'm assuming you are talking about sound dampening, not heat insulation.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sound dampening can help in thin steel sided cases, but the thick aluminum panels (or TG) do not resonate much sound through them .. if any. Vibrarion might resonate, and to stop that use the rubber screws/mounting pins. The sound comes out through the vents and the only thing that can be done to quiet that is use quieter fans.


Well I meant it would make the noise coming out more focused possibly (might not, oh well) and at the same time look a bit more 'OEM' due to cases using the stuff all the time. And yes not heat insulation







.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pez*
> 
> Well I meant it would make the noise coming out more focused possibly (might not, oh well) and at the same time look a bit more 'OEM' due to cases using the stuff all the time. And yes not heat insulation
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


Sound dampening can be helpful in stopping sound reflection; like on inside of panel in front of a fan .. Evolv ATX top .. probably not on the tray because whatever is being used to block / cover the holes is likely soft enough to not reflect much sound. Define 2, 3, 4 & 5 all use it on inside of front door to stop sound reflection.


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pez*
> 
> Well I meant it would make the noise coming out more focused possibly (might not, oh well) and at the same time look a bit more 'OEM' due to cases using the stuff all the time. And yes not heat insulation
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


I used this stuff to block my top bracket and I put a large sheet on my top and front panels. I also have it on the bottom floor of the Evolv with my 2 hard drives resting directly on top (in the plastic cage). Oh and a small piece on the rear res mount near the PCIe brackets and above the rear fan. It does a great job in all of those applications. No HDD rattle and I would say overall fan noise is reduced (or at least more pleasant) to a noticeable degree (less buzzing sounds and more of an air woosh sound).


----------



## LtChestnut

Hi, im very interested in the p400, i think it looks beautiful, how hard would it be to mod into a vertical GPU config?


----------



## thedosbox

Question for those with the MicroATX version of the Enthoo Evolv. Are any of you running a 3.5" hard drive?

I'm considering replacing my Lian-Li as the aluminum panels resonate when the hard drive is in action, spoiling an otherwise quiet build.

I notice there's some sort of soft damping material between the panels and the interior chassis, so am wondering how good that is at stopping vibration.


----------



## dainfamous

There's a newer version of evolv matx coming soon. I would wait for that before anything.


----------



## FXformat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dainfamous*
> 
> There's a newer version of evolv matx coming soon. I would wait for that before anything.


Source? I like MATX cases, but the Evolv MATX the window isn't big enough, have of it was blocked off. I'd like one where you can see the whole interior


----------



## nycgtr

So i just got my evolv up and running. I got 4 corsair sp120s in it with a 240 v3 6mm on top and 240 thin in front. My idle temps for 1 tx and 1 cpu are both in the mid 30s. The titan is oced over 2k and the cpu is oced to 4.6 with a volt of 1.3 5960x. Now I am coming from a primo where I had a 280 ut 60, 240 v3 , and PE 480. Obviously loosing a 480 rad space is a big hit. With the fans running at about 70% on the top and front and (140mm ring exhaust). I have them all going to fan hub and I noticed under 100% gpu load my titan is going to the max of 61 to 62. This with the top cover and front cover off. This is a far cry from the load temp of 48 I had before. I expected higher temps than before but 60c under load is kinda high. Any suggstions?


----------



## geriatricpollywog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nycgtr*
> 
> So i just got my evolv up and running. I got 4 corsair sp120s in it with a 240 v3 6mm on top and 240 thin in front. My idle temps for 1 tx and 1 cpu are both in the mid 30s. The titan is oced over 2k and the cpu is oced to 4.6 with a volt of 1.3 5960x. Now I am coming from a primo where I had a 280 ut 60, 240 v3 , and PE 480. Obviously loosing a 480 rad space is a big hit. With the fans running at about 70% on the top and front and (140mm ring exhaust). I have them all going to fan hub and I noticed under 100% gpu load my titan is going to the max of 61 to 62. This with the top cover and front cover off. This is a far cry from the load temp of 48 I had before. I expected higher temps than before but 60c under load is kinda high. Any suggstions?


Change to 140mm wide radiators. With my setup, my GPU never exceeds 39 C overclocked and it generates more watts than a Titan XP.


----------



## nycgtr

I had 280 on the top prior. But my ut60 was so fing huge up there it made some things not so easy. I cant fit a 280 in the front with my current setup, or I would of already. I don't think that rad space is going help much. How aggressive are your fans? I've been spoiled by barely spinning fans.

I blocked off all the top clear areas on the radiator bracket. With all the covers fully on, I get the same temps, actually a couple degrees lower 3 or so.


----------



## geriatricpollywog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nycgtr*
> 
> I had 280 on the top prior. But my ut60 was so fing huge up there it made some things not so easy. I cant fit a 280 in the front with my current setup, or I would of already. I don't think that rad space is going help much. How aggressive are your fans? I've been spoiled by barely spinning fans.
> 
> I blocked off all the top clear areas on the radiator bracket. With all the covers fully on, I get the same temps, actually a couple degrees lower 3 or so.


1150 at said temps, but temps not much higher at 900.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nycgtr*
> 
> I had 280 on the top prior. But my ut60 was so fing huge up there it made some things not so easy. I cant fit a 280 in the front with my current setup, or I would of already. I don't think that rad space is going help much. How aggressive are your fans? I've been spoiled by barely spinning fans.
> 
> I blocked off all the top clear areas on the radiator bracket. With all the covers fully on, I get the same temps, actually a couple degrees lower 3 or so.


You may have something else going on there that is GPU specific. How are the liquid temps? Is the CPU temp also way off?

Also, you aren't doing yourself any favors using Corsair SP fans in a restrictive environment like the Evolv ATX. Regardless of what the rating is on the box, we have seen time and time again that they struggle in applications like this.


----------



## pez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Sound dampening can be helpful in stopping sound reflection; like on inside of panel in front of a fan .. Evolv ATX top .. probably not on the tray because whatever is being used to block / cover the holes is likely soft enough to not reflect much sound. Define 2, 3, 4 & 5 all use it on inside of front door to stop sound reflection.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> I used this stuff to block my top bracket and I put a large sheet on my top and front panels. I also have it on the bottom floor of the Evolv with my 2 hard drives resting directly on top (in the plastic cage). Oh and a small piece on the rear res mount near the PCIe brackets and above the rear fan. It does a great job in all of those applications. No HDD rattle and I would say overall fan noise is reduced (or at least more pleasant) to a noticeable degree (less buzzing sounds and more of an air woosh sound).


See doyll! Paskowitz has the right idea








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dainfamous*
> 
> There's a newer version of evolv matx coming soon. I would wait for that before anything.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FXformat*
> 
> Source? I like MATX cases, but the Evolv MATX the window isn't big enough, have of it was blocked off. I'd like one where you can see the whole interior


It was shown at CES, but I can't find any signs of really on their site. Tis at the very beginning of this video, though:


----------



## smithydan

Which more info was given on the mATX evolv, even a potential release date.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pez*
> 
> See doyll! Paskowitz has the right idea
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It was shown at CES, but I can't find any signs of really on their site. Tis at the very beginning of this video, though:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Of course he does. But if a system is making noise 99 times out of 100 it will sill be making almost idenctical amounts of noise after installing sound dampening .. simply because the open areas in venting let the noise out. And we cannot 'dampen' these opening.









I have not heard anything about Evolv mATX TG


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Of course he does. But if a system is making noise 99 times out of 100 it will sill be making almost idenctical amounts of noise after installing sound dampening .. simply because the open areas in venting let the noise out. And we cannot 'dampen' these opening.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have not heard anything about Evolv mATX TG


Yeah, sound dampening doesn't suddenly make moving air sound any better. It is more of a pitch change rather than direct dB. That being said, even for a ~10% gain, this is a pretty cheap and easy improvement. I will say though, if I didn't have my 6TB HGST NAS drive on the neoprene it would be making a lot more noise (vibration).

Makes me wonder if case manufacturers could integrate the properties of what makes a firearm silencer work on case air exhaust. The resistance would probably be too high, but it would be an interesting experiment.

Evolv mATX TG is coming in March, or so say Phanteks customer service (I posted that a page or so ago







)


----------



## nycgtr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> You may have something else going on there that is GPU specific. How are the liquid temps? Is the CPU temp also way off?
> 
> Also, you aren't doing yourself any favors using Corsair SP fans in a restrictive environment like the Evolv ATX. Regardless of what the rating is on the box, we have seen time and time again that they struggle in applications like this.


I only downsized my case and removed some rads. My tx was getting around 48 on load in my primo, my cpu temps are rougly the same maybe 2 deg higher. I migrated the sp120s over from the primo. I know they aren't the best sp fans by any means but they worked well in my primo application. I have some rather nice fans but unfortunately all 140. I noticed that if I ramped my fans up to 100 my gpu maxes out at 50-51c on load (it use to max out at 48 with pretty much inaudible fan speeds). As i mentioned before coming from full towers with excessive rad space I expected more noise and an increase in temps by a few degrees. I don't mind buying 4 new fans. Any suggestions? And should I just try stuffing the 280 back on top again lol.


----------



## thedosbox

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pez*
> 
> It was shown at CES, but I can't find any signs of really on their site. Tis at the very beginning of this video, though:


Thanks. I like that the ports are at the front, not so keen on the removal of the 5.25" bay, and meh on the glass.

Still would like to hear from any Enthoo Evolv Micro ATX owners who have a spinning rust drive though - i.e. is vibration or panel resonance an issue?


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> Yeah, sound dampening doesn't suddenly make moving air sound any better. It is more of a pitch change rather than direct dB. That being said, even for a ~10% gain, this is a pretty cheap and easy improvement. I will say though, if I didn't have my 6TB HGST NAS drive on the neoprene it would be making a lot more noise (vibration).
> 
> Makes me wonder if case manufacturers could integrate the properties of what makes a firearm silencer work on case air exhaust. The resistance would probably be too high, but it would be an interesting experiment.
> 
> Evolv mATX TG is coming in March, or so say Phanteks customer service (I posted that a page or so ago
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )


Isolating vibration to stop it making sound ( hard-drives) is not 'sound' insulation, but 'vibration dampening)







I know it's semantics, but what needs to solve one does not work on the other .. even if the same material (semi-dense rubber matting) will work in both instances here. I've seen cases where the sonic noise of a piece of equipment was dampened to be a non-issue while the vibration for them was extremely hard to resolve .. and visa versa.

The best firearm silencer I've seen is these
 

and a good muzzle break on barrel. That is unless you are using sub-sonic ammo <1100fpm), and very few of us do that. Most 22LR ammo is supersonic .. meaning even the best silencer is not going to help with the sonic 'boom'.


----------



## eXistencelies

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nycgtr*
> 
> So i just got my evolv up and running. I got 4 corsair sp120s in it with a 240 v3 6mm on top and 240 thin in front. My idle temps for 1 tx and 1 cpu are both in the mid 30s. The titan is oced over 2k and the cpu is oced to 4.6 with a volt of 1.3 5960x. Now I am coming from a primo where I had a 280 ut 60, 240 v3 , and PE 480. Obviously loosing a 480 rad space is a big hit. With the fans running at about 70% on the top and front and (140mm ring exhaust). I have them all going to fan hub and I noticed under 100% gpu load my titan is going to the max of 61 to 62. This with the top cover and front cover off. This is a far cry from the load temp of 48 I had before. I expected higher temps than before but 60c under load is kinda high. Any suggstions?


My case is the Evolv ATX TG. I have two Nemesis 360 GTS in the front and on top. Both running as intake. Also a TT RIING 140mm in rear as exhaust. All fans are TT Riing fans. I have a 7700k OC'd to 5ghz @ 1.295 volts. Idle is 25c-28c depending on ambient temp. Gaming is low 50s. My 1080 GTX is OC'd to 2.1GHz. Idle temp is 28c pretty much all times. Gaming is mid 40s. Something has to be wrong with yuor setup.

My loop goes RES>PUMP>RAD>GPU>RAD>CPU>RES


----------



## nycgtr

You do have a lot more rad space than me. I am running the front as intake, top rad as exhaust and rear as exhaust. Honestly, your temps are quite in line with mine. My 5960x runs hotter than your 7700k and my idle is in the low 30s. I also do have a 1080 and 6700k on water (wifes pc) and that's also ran cooler. I have to fix an airflow problem. My loop order is res -pump- gpu-rad-cpu-rad


----------



## eXistencelies

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nycgtr*
> 
> You do have a lot more rad space than me. I am running the front as intake, top rad as exhaust and rear as exhaust. Honestly, your temps are quite in line with mine. My 5960x runs hotter than your 7700k and my idle is in the low 30s. I also do have a 1080 and 6700k on water (wifes pc) and that's also ran cooler. I have to fix an airflow problem. My loop order is res -pump- gpu-rad-cpu-rad


Try running the top as intake and close off all holes/gaps you see looking down into the case. I did that with some black duc tape. Worked for me. Also flipping from exhaust on the top to intake dropped my temps by like 1-2c.


----------



## nycgtr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eXistencelies*
> 
> Try running the top as intake and close off all holes/gaps you see looking down into the case. I did that with some black duc tape. Worked for me. Also flipping from exhaust on the top to intake dropped my temps by like 1-2c.


Alright I'll give that shot. I already closed all the top areas with duct tape. I feel air flowing very well out of the top actually. Leave the lid not completely down vs sealed on makes no temp difference for me. At max fans I am getting gpu max of 50 and 51, which I find acceptable for this case. Tonight I will replace the 240v3 with the UT 60 280. I do have the room just that radiator looks massive in this case.

On second thought your top and front are intake and only your back is exhaust?


----------



## eXistencelies

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nycgtr*
> 
> Alright I'll give that shot. I already closed all the top areas with duct tape. I feel air flowing very well out of the top actually. Leave the lid not completely down vs sealed on makes no temp difference for me. At max fans I am getting gpu max of 50 and 51, which I find acceptable for this case. Tonight I will replace the 240v3 with the UT 60 280. I do have the room just that radiator looks massive in this case.
> 
> On second thought your top and front are intake and only your back is exhaust?


Have you removed the stupid top radiator tray which gives you at least another half inch of room to mount your rad up top? I did that with mine, but I had to drill some holes into the cross member to bolt the rad to. I just thought it was ugly having the rad cover up part of the motherboard. Yes I have 6 intake and 1 exhaust lol.

Here is my build https://pcpartpicker.com/b/qmd6Mp

Basically the same thing but now I have new chip/mobo/ram in it.


----------



## FXformat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eXistencelies*
> 
> Have you removed the stupid top radiator tray which gives you at least another half inch of room to mount your rad up top? I did that with mine, but I had to drill some holes into the cross member to bolt the rad to. I just thought it was ugly having the rad cover up part of the motherboard. Yes I have 6 intake and 1 exhaust lol.
> 
> Here is my build https://pcpartpicker.com/b/qmd6Mp
> 
> Basically the same thing but now I have new chip/mobo/ram in it.


Nice build! Lol you'll get a lot of hate for using those fans, i personally have the same and love them. How about you? Do they do a good job cooling your rads?


----------



## eXistencelies

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FXformat*
> 
> Nice build! Lol you'll get a lot of hate for using those fans, i personally have the same and love them. How about you? Do they do a good job cooling your rads?


Thanks! I do hate them lol, but cooling wise they are pretty good. I have them on high, but I barely hear them. I want them to make a hub that can have up to 10 fans plugged in and then software controlled. I have 3 boxes along with 2 daisy chains in my case that takes up so much room. Almost thought about getting the new premium edition ones, but it is the same damn thing but with software control. Still have to use multiple boxes.


----------



## nycgtr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eXistencelies*
> 
> Have you removed the stupid top radiator tray which gives you at least another half inch of room to mount your rad up top? I did that with mine, but I had to drill some holes into the cross member to bolt the rad to. I just thought it was ugly having the rad cover up part of the motherboard. Yes I have 6 intake and 1 exhaust lol.
> 
> Here is my build https://pcpartpicker.com/b/qmd6Mp
> 
> Basically the same thing but now I have new chip/mobo/ram in it.


I was considering on doing that, however, I feel the fans need more room to work with such a restrictive top. So i kept it under the rad. I had wanted to put a thin rad ontop to show more of the mother board but I didn't have any. To be honest mine with the fans cover up to the top of the cpu block which doesn't bother me at all.



It's still in progress. Need to do my cable combs and change the rad and fans tonight. Debating which front fans to use.


----------



## FXformat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eXistencelies*
> 
> Thanks! I do hate them lol, but cooling wise they are pretty good. I have them on high, but I barely hear them. I want them to make a hub that can have up to 10 fans plugged in and then software controlled. I have 3 boxes along with 2 daisy chains in my case that takes up so much room. Almost thought about getting the new premium edition ones, but it is the same damn thing but with software control. Still have to use multiple boxes.


I have both the new ones and the old ones, the new ones have extra extra super long cables. Think about 3x longer than your current ones, and then u gotta plug that into your USB 2.0 on the mobo too, so cables galore. Software is glitchy as shiet, barely works..so stick with the old one. If they work good and are quiet then why do you hate them? That's the number one criteria i look for, quiet, cool shiet, i'm buying.


----------



## eXistencelies

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nycgtr*
> 
> I was considering on doing that, however, I feel the fans need more room to work with such a restrictive top. So i kept it under the rad. I had wanted to put a thin rad ontop to show more of the mother board but I didn't have any. To be honest mine with the fans cover up to the top of the cpu block which doesn't bother me at all.
> 
> 
> 
> It's still in progress. Need to do my cable combs and change the rad and fans tonight. Debating which front fans to use.


Holy thickness of that rad. Setup looks good, but never seen a rad that thick. I chose the GTS 360 due to reviews and thinness. If it doesn't bother you then no need to change it. It is what you like.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FXformat*
> 
> I have both the new ones and the old ones, the new ones have extra extra super long cables. Think about 3x longer than your current ones, and then u gotta plug that into your USB 2.0 on the mobo too, so cables galore. Software is glitchy as shiet, barely works..so stick with the old one. If they work good and are quiet then why do you hate them? That's the number one criteria i look for, quiet, cool shiet, i'm buying.


I just hate that you can only hook up 3 fans per box. Also to change the color I have to open up my back panel and manually change them. Sure I could cut a small hole and run one box outside so it can be easily changed, but I shouldn't have to do that. It would be very easy to increase box size some and add 10 ports double stacked. 5 ports on top and 5 ports on bottom. I also see they redesigned the fan on the premium version too.


----------



## nycgtr

I originally wanted the ut60 on top and the v3 infront. Both are 60mm thick the xspc is like 56. However, the pump became an issue as I would have to mount in the middle of the case or somewhere on the side. Or drill holes on the bottom of the case and then drill a hole to pass thru a tube, as a thick rad pretty much kills the hole by the front, forcing me to stick a slim rad in the front. I could of bought a ddc but I have 3 d5 pumps, and I am not buying another pump just to change cases.


----------



## FXformat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nycgtr*
> 
> I was considering on doing that, however, I feel the fans need more room to work with such a restrictive top. So i kept it under the rad. I had wanted to put a thin rad ontop to show more of the mother board but I didn't have any. To be honest mine with the fans cover up to the top of the cpu block which doesn't bother me at all.
> 
> 
> 
> It's still in progress. Need to do my cable combs and change the rad and fans tonight. Debating which front fans to use.


Damn i didn't even know rads came that thick. I"ve been watercooling for a few years now, and in my experience, the length of the rad will always yield more cooling power than a thick rad. In a build like this, a 360mm x 38mm thick rad and a 240mmx38mm thick rad can cool a lot of hardware. That's what i'm doing with this build..

EK Coolstream PE 360 and a 240 for the front, it's just a little thicker than the fan.


----------



## nycgtr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FXformat*
> 
> Damn i didn't even know rads came that thick. I"ve been watercooling for a few years now, and in my experience, the length of the rad will always yield more cooling power than a thick rad. In a build like this, a 360mm x 38mm thick rad and a 240mmx38mm thick rad can cool a lot of hardware. That's what i'm doing with this build..
> 
> EK Coolstream PE 360 and a 240 for the front, it's just a little thicker than the fan.


60mm is nothing people have been using 80mm monsta rads for years. I only have 2 slim rads. a 240 and 480 EK PE. When I first got this case I was going to throw a 25-30mm 360 on top, however I could not justify buying another radiator just for the sake of a case transplant. I have 6 radiators already and I knew the potential of a planned 280 plus 240 vs a 360 and a 240 wasn't going to mean much difference in temps for the 2 items I was cooling. I will get the 280 in tonight to get a bit more surface area. Also I don't feel like buying more fans lol. If I bought a 360 now i'd have to go get more 120mm fans and I already have 2 boxes of them, granted none of them being perfect for this scenario. Replacing the top with a 280 will grant me more surface area and I can use some better fans for this case that I already own. Buying the front 2 replacements is fine with me.


----------



## mickr777

Hi Everyone lots of great looking computers in this thread, made me want to change my case so here is a picture of my build so far

Phanteks Eclipse P400S Tempered Glass


----------



## capitaltpt

Can anyone tell me if there is enough room to mount a 3.5" HDD with Phanteks bracket on the rear MB tray mount on the Primo? I read a review that indicates you may not be able to put the door on with it there and wanted to see if anyone tried. Also, I assume mounting it on the 5.25 bay will render the second mount unusable, correct?


----------



## RadActiveLobstr

I don't think there is enough room behind the mobo trade for a 3.5 drive. If it wasn't a giant pain to turn my case around I'd pop the side off and double check but if it does fit it'll be very close.


----------



## LiamG6

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nycgtr*
> 
> I was considering on doing that, however, I feel the fans need more room to work with such a restrictive top. So i kept it under the rad. I had wanted to put a thin rad ontop to show more of the mother board but I didn't have any. To be honest mine with the fans cover up to the top of the cpu block which doesn't bother me at all.
> 
> 
> 
> It's still in progress. Need to do my cable combs and change the rad and fans tonight. Debating which front fans to use.


you can get rid of the top slide out rad tray and hang the top rad from the case frame, this moves the fans/rad about 19mm up revealing more of the mobo. I used two strips of aluminium with holes drilled to suit the rad hole spacing and placed it on top of the steel case and bolted it to the rad below the steel, effectively pinching it in place. see picture.



If you don't want to buy aluminium and drill it to suit you can just buy this



this requires zero modification to the case. just remove the slide out tray and hang it from the top of the steel frame. there is still about 25mm of free 'air' space above the rad with this config. only thing is it becomes hard to seal everything up top to prevent recycling the air, so you need to get creative.


----------



## PetrasSukys

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *capitaltpt*
> 
> Can anyone tell me if there is enough room to mount a 3.5" HDD with Phanteks bracket on the rear MB tray mount on the Primo? I read a review that indicates you may not be able to put the door on with it there and wanted to see if anyone tried. Also, I assume mounting it on the 5.25 bay will render the second mount unusable, correct?


I don't have the 3.5" HDD bracket, so can't test it. But I still can easily open the back







There is around 30mm of space behind motherboard tray. Putting the stock SSD bracket on the motherboard tray leaves ~2mm from side panel. As it seems (from Phanteks website), 3.5" HDD bracket has a slightly larger offset from tray (than SSD bracket), so I doubt that it would fit. Again, depends on the 3.5" HDD. They have different heights...


----------



## capitaltpt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PetrasSukys*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *capitaltpt*
> 
> Can anyone tell me if there is enough room to mount a 3.5" HDD with Phanteks bracket on the rear MB tray mount on the Primo? I read a review that indicates you may not be able to put the door on with it there and wanted to see if anyone tried. Also, I assume mounting it on the 5.25 bay will render the second mount unusable, correct?
> 
> 
> 
> I don't have the 3.5" HDD bracket, so can't test it. But I still can easily open the back
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There is around 30mm of space behind motherboard tray. Putting the stock SSD bracket on the motherboard tray leaves ~2mm from side panel. As it seems (from Phanteks website), 3.5" HDD bracket has a slightly larger offset from tray (than SSD bracket), so I doubt that it would fit. Again, depends on the 3.5" HDD. They have different heights...
Click to expand...

Bummer. Thanks for checking though!


----------



## xTesla1856

The setup for now:


The Luxe TG is absolutely gorgeous !


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LiamG6*
> 
> you can get rid of the top slide out rad tray and hang the top rad from the case frame, this moves the fans/rad about 19mm up revealing more of the mobo. I used two strips of aluminium with holes drilled to suit the rad hole spacing and placed it on top of the steel case and bolted it to the rad below the steel, effectively pinching it in place. see picture.
> 
> 
> 
> If you don't want to buy aluminium and drill it to suit you can just buy this
> 
> 
> 
> this requires zero modification to the case. just remove the slide out tray and hang it from the top of the steel frame. there is still about 25mm of free 'air' space above the rad with this config. only thing is it becomes hard to seal everything up top to prevent recycling the air, so you need to get creative.


Where can I buy that metal plate?


----------



## LiamG6

It is a phobya 280mm rad grill. You can buy it from frozencpu in USA http://www.frozencpu.com/products/12941/ffa-56/Phobya_Dual_280_Radiator_Grill_-_HEX_-_Black_Powder_Coat.html
Or PCCG in Australia.

Just google it.


----------



## gkroller

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LiamG6*
> 
> It is a phobya 280mm rad grill. You can buy it from frozencpu in USA http://www.frozencpu.com/products/12941/ffa-56/Phobya_Dual_280_Radiator_Grill_-_HEX_-_Black_Powder_Coat.html
> Or PCCG in Australia.
> 
> Just google it.


What thickness / config rad are you using? 2x 140mm? thickness?


----------



## LiamG6

I'm only using a 30mm thick 280 rad in the top, but I could fit a 60mm + fans and still be above the CPU block. With this setup my fans protrude about 10mm below the motherboards top edge. about 30-40mm above the top CPU mount holes so would still be clear of CPU block with a 60mm rad. Ram can't be too tall though.


----------



## TMatzelle60

Just purchased the Phanteks Evolv ATX TG. I have a question how other members are controlling there fans when the case does not have any drive bays to place a fan controller in.


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TMatzelle60*
> 
> Just purchased the Phanteks Evolv ATX TG. I have a question how other members are controlling there fans when the case does not have any drive bays to place a fan controller in.


There are multiple ways to do it.

You can use the motherboard to control your fans, how well this works depends on the motherboard.
You can run both voltage and PWM controlled fans straight of a fan header, on average 4-5, or with pwm you can use a powered PWM hub for 8-10 fans off a single header.

The other option is to use an internal USB fan controller like the Aquaero LT controllers.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TMatzelle60*
> 
> Just purchased the Phanteks Evolv ATX TG. I have a question how other members are controlling there fans when the case does not have any drive bays to place a fan controller in.


I use motherboard controls and the included PWM controlled fan hub to control mine. It automatically increases or decreases fans speed dependent on what temp to speed curve is setup to be. It takes a little work to start with, but well worth it to never have to worry about fans needing to be adjusted again .. well, not unless room temps change dramatically or filters get dirty.









If you can't do it with your motherboard the Aquaero 5 or 6 LT are amazing. When setup properly they will do everything but make coffee .. and there is probably a way to get it to do that too! They are amazing little beasts!


----------



## TMatzelle60

I saw the below fan controller lets you do internet control

http://www.lamptron.com/product/controllers/cm615/

would that fix in a HDD tray if I remove the one above it


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TMatzelle60*
> 
> Just purchased the Phanteks Evolv ATX TG. I have a question how other members are controlling there fans when the case does not have any drive bays to place a fan controller in.


Fan controller in a drive bay? Was this posted in 2006 and just got in the site?


----------



## TMatzelle60

LOL, Well since it has internet software


----------



## Chiobe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Fan controller in a drive bay? Was this posted in 2006 and just got in the site?


Some people prefer a little more control over there fans, then the cables or simple pcb's gives. Like the Aquaero.
Getting that without a 5.25 bay is hard, as you need to lightly mod the case to fit it somewhere else and not everyone can/will do that.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chiobe*
> 
> Some people prefer a little more control over there fans, then the cables or simple pcb's gives. Like the Aquaero.
> Getting that without a 5.25 bay is hard, as you need to lightly mod the case to fit it somewhere else and not everyone can/will do that.


Either I am misunderstanding you or you are several bobs short of a shilling. Aquaero is one of the best and most complete fan control systems there is .. and it comes in the LT for inside of case mounting or in 5.25 bay models.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Either I am misunderstanding you or you are several bobs short of a shilling. Aquaero is one of the best and most complete fan control systems there is .. and it comes in the LT for inside of case mounting or in 5.25 bay models.


Thanks. I was like


----------



## Chiobe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Either I am misunderstanding you or you are several bobs short of a shilling. Aquaero is one of the best and most complete fan control systems there is .. and it comes in the LT for inside of case mounting or in 5.25 bay models.


Yes the LT version can be mounted into the case with screws, but few cases has the mounting holes, so you need to make your own. Which depending on the case is not that easy (case material vs tools available ). Not to mention space to put it, as not all cases has enough height in the back to mount it (aquaero height + cable bend radius) and most other surfaces are covered already.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chiobe*
> 
> Yes the LT version can be mounted into the case with screws, but few cases has the mounting holes, so you need to make your own. Which depending on the case is not that easy (case material vs tools available ). Not to mention space to put it, as not all cases has enough height in the back to mount it (aquaero height + cable bend radius) and most other surfaces are covered already.


It is simple to mount one in a case.
Just use something like velcro tape, double sided foam tape or foam pads with self-sticky stuff on each side, like what is used to mount mirrors to the wall. If component ends protrude out on back of PCB, use two layers of foam tape or pads.

No big deal at all.


----------



## TMatzelle60

how many fans can the LT version power. Also I see water cooling stuff on it but ill probably do a aio


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TMatzelle60*
> 
> how many fans can the LT version power. Also I see water cooling stuff on it but ill probably do a aio


So.....you are saying that you need an intricate fan controller to control three fans? Two of which will be on the same curve as intakes, and the other simply exhaust? And that you somehow can't accomplish exactly the same thing with even the most budget of MB?


----------



## TMatzelle60

Thanks.. What about Grid+ V2 by NZXT?


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TMatzelle60*
> 
> What about Grid+ V2 by NZXT?


Would work fine for non-pwm fans, but what motherboard and fans are you planning on getting? A cable splitter or 2 might just be all you need.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TMatzelle60*
> 
> how many fans can the LT version power. Also I see water cooling stuff on it but ill probably do a aio


Aquaero makes two fan controllers the 5 & the 6. All 5's are same electronics and all 6's are same The LT is just the 5 or 6 that has no front panel or front panel foo-foo. On the 5 version the LT does not have a heatsink the others have, but that heatsink is an option.

But like ciarlatano said, thre is no need for it. What motherboard do you have?


----------



## TMatzelle60

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gilles3000*
> 
> Would work fine for non-pwm fans, but what motherboard and fans are you planning on getting? A cable splitter or 2 might just be all you need.


Was looking at getting noiseblocker 3 pin fans 120mm

I have the EVGA Z170 Classified K


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TMatzelle60*
> 
> Was looking at getting noiseblocker 3 pin fans 120mm
> 
> I have the EVGA Z170 Classified K


Your motherboard has 7 fan headers and supports both DC (3-pin) or PWM (4-pin) fan control, and the noiseblockers should be well within spec. So you don't need a fan controller.


----------



## TMatzelle60

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gilles3000*
> 
> Your motherboard has 7 fan headers and supports both DC (3-pin) or PWM (4-pin) fan control, and the noiseblockers should be well within spec. So you don't need a fan controller.


Where are those fans controlled from? BIOS?


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TMatzelle60*
> 
> Where are those fans controlled from? BIOS?


Yep, set your curve in the BIOS and you're done. Not sure if EVGA has a utility to switch fan profiles in windows, don't know the in and outs of EVGA motherboards.

If you want more in windows control and even remote control I guess you could get the Grid+ V2, but the Aquaero's would be massive overkill for what you'll need.


----------



## michael-ocn

If you've got more fans than headers, something like these can help. Each of these uses the pwm signal from a single mobo header to control several fans. Swiftech's works with 4pin pwm fans (the pwm signal is propagated to all the fans). Phantek's works with 3pin voltage controlled fans (the pwm signal determines how much voltage is provided to the fans).

swiftech pwm spliiter
phantek fan hub

the phanteks hub comes with some of the phanteks cases, my evolvATX came with one


----------



## pez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Of course he does. But if a system is making noise 99 times out of 100 it will sill be making almost idenctical amounts of noise after installing sound dampening .. simply because the open areas in venting let the noise out. And we cannot 'dampen' these opening.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have not heard anything about Evolv mATX TG


That's not the argument I'm trying to make ultimately. Just saying that might not be a bad idea to use the stuff used in cases as it would be easy to come by and easy to add along in an order.


----------



## gkroller

I dislike mobo PWM controllers because
1. they typically have hysteresis build in so they run fans at high noise levels long after the temp has come down.
That is, they track temp only on increasing temps, not decreasing temps.
2. they have a limited range of adjustment, so you can't get your fans down to an acceptable noise level. Usually they bottom out at 50% or higher.

Solution is to use MSI Afterburner which is adjustable over 15% - 100% range. I connect my 4 pin GTX1080 PWM header to all my fans (5 in total) resulting in 480 RPM until my GPU hits 60 C and then it ramps up adjustable in one degree increments.
When I exit a game the GPU cools way down immediately, as does the fan noise, i.e. no hysteresis. I've controlled as many as nine fans this way.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *michael-ocn*
> 
> If you've got more fans than headers, something like these can help. Each of these uses the pwm signal from a single mobo header to control several fans. Swiftech's works with 4pin pwm fans (the pwm signal is propagated to all the fans). Phantek's works with 3pin voltage controlled fans (the pwm signal determines how much voltage is provided to the fans).
> 
> swiftech pwm spliiter
> phantek fan hub
> 
> the phanteks hub comes with some of the phanteks cases, my evolvATX came with one


These two hubs are vastly different from each other:

Swiftech PMW Hub is a PWM hub for 4-pin PWM fans. It uses 12v power for PSU and splits the PWM signal on pin-4 to all 8 hub fan headers. It *splits the PWM signal*.
Phanteks PWM Hub *is not a PWM hub*!! It is a PWM *controlled* hub that uses PWM signal to change the 12v power from PSU to variable voltage to pin-2 on it's 3-pin fan headers. It *uses the PWM signal to vary the voltage*.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gkroller*
> 
> I dislike mobo PWM controllers because
> 1. they typically have hysteresis build in so they run fans at high noise levels long after the temp has come down.
> That is, they track temp only on increasing temps, not decreasing temps.
> 2. they have a limited range of adjustment, so you can't get your fans down to an acceptable noise level. Usually they bottom out at 50% or higher.
> 
> Solution is to use MSI Afterburner which is adjustable over 15% - 100% range. I connect my 4 pin GTX1080 PWM header to all my fans (5 in total) resulting in 480 RPM until my GPU hits 60 C and then it ramps up adjustable in one degree increments.
> When I exit a game the GPU cools way down immediately, as does the fan noise, i.e. no hysteresis. I've controlled as many as nine fans this way.


Interesting. I have not found what you are saying to be true. They vary the fan speed based on temperature with no delay. Fans speed up as temp rises and slow down as temp lowers. How can a temperature sensor only track temperature as it rises? If this was true it would rise to it's maximum temp and never get lower. True some have a lower limit, but these usually are about 15%, not 50%. Usually the 50% problem is on motherboards with a 'fan tuning' feature, and it this feature is not used the PWM signal does not lower like it should. It strange, to get full range control of fan in manual setting the automatic fan tuning must be used first. Definitely not an intuitive kind of functionality.

While using just the GPU PWM signal for case fans supplying airflow to GPU is great, it is not good to have all case fans controlled by GPU. Doing so means case fans do not speed up when CPU works hard, but only when GPU works hard .. so CPU has no case airflow and has to reuse it's own heated air when ti speeds up .. meaning it runs much hotter.

This link is to how PWM fans all have different PWM% to fan rpm curves, CPU PWM signal splitters and GPU PWM signal splitters.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pez*
> 
> That's not the argument I'm trying to make ultimately. Just saying that might not be a bad idea to use the stuff used in cases as it would be easy to come by and easy to add along in an order.


Sorry, I was not arguing what you were doing. I was only trying to point out to others that sound dampening does not change/stop noise that is coming out of the case's vents .. and that generally it is better to deal with the source of the noise than to try and muffle/dampen it.


----------



## FXformat

Starting my loop today, I overhauled the setup too. AMD is not for me so I got rid of that and is building a Z170/6700K platform and a 980ti hydro copper.

Someone asked me why I didn't build in a Kaby Lake and gtx 1070. Well easy, I got the mobo, cpu, and card for $670. Bought locally off Craig's so no tax and the CPU was new.

If I were to get a z270, 7700K, and 1070 + waterblock I'm looking at $1000 easy. Performance is very similar between the 2 setups.


----------



## paskowitz

Yeah that's a terrific price for the hardware. Ain't nobody going to fault you for that. 1070 essentially equals a 980 Ti.


----------



## FXformat

That's what I figured, plus i have full warranty on the card as well. If I were to slap a block on a 1070 and something goes wrong, not sure if evga will cover it.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> Yeah that's a terrific price for the hardware. Ain't nobody going to fault you for that. 1070 essentially equals a 980 Ti.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FXformat*
> 
> That's what I figured, plus i have full warranty on the card as well. If I were to slap a block on a 1070 and something goes wrong, not sure if evga will cover it.


They do cover it. But, ashould you said, save $350 and get the same performance is the way to go.


----------



## mrpurplehawk

Would anyone have pictures of the screws that hold the bottom radiator mount in on the Primo? I fear I may have misplaced mine and can't seem to find any that fit.


----------



## FXformat

I got the loop in, I decided to do a simple run, parallel lines and will stay with di water. This case does not allow you to mount the D5 Revo pump so I had to make a bracket and mount it to the bottom of the psu compartment. Does the res look too small?


----------



## FXformat




----------



## geriatricpollywog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FXformat*
> 
> I got the loop in, I decided to do a simple run, parallel lines and will stay with di water. This case does not allow you to mount the D5 Revo pump so I had to make a bracket and mount it to the bottom of the psu compartment. Does the res look too small?


There are things you can do, but you need the shorty reservior tube.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mrpurplehawk*
> 
> Would anyone have pictures of the screws that hold the bottom radiator mount in on the Primo? I fear I may have misplaced mine and can't seem to find any that fit.


There should be more in the accessory box.


----------



## mrpurplehawk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> There should be more in the accessory box.


Located the screws, apparently I was putting in the wrong hole


----------



## FXformat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0451*
> 
> There are things you can do, but you need the shorty reservior tube.


Damn you have enough radiators in there? lol that's crazy bro. Since you have the same pump I think you know there's nowhere to mount it regularly, I had to improvise something.


----------



## geriatricpollywog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FXformat*
> 
> Damn you have enough radiators in there? lol that's crazy bro. Since you have the same pump I think you know there's nowhere to mount it regularly, I had to improvise something.


Actually I have 2 pumps. One That's a res/pump combo.

There is a lot of freedom with this case, but you need to get creative.


----------



## FXformat

Okay i'm all done for now, i might change up the loop again when i get my PCI riser card so my GPU can be mounted vertically. What do you guys think? This is a cellphone pic in bad lighting, CPU idles at high 20s, during game it never got pass 45, i think this is good temps. I was getting mid 70s with my AMD lolol.


----------



## geriatricpollywog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FXformat*
> 
> Okay i'm all done for now, i might change up the loop again when i get my PCI riser card so my GPU can be mounted vertically. What do you guys think? This is a cellphone pic in bad lighting, CPU idles at high 20s, during game it never got pass 45, i think this is good temps. I was getting mid 70s with my AMD lolol.


Looking good. Post a pic fully assembled


----------



## nycgtr

Made some changes this weekend. I replaced the top rad with a ut60 280, which was my original plan. Replaced the sp120s. Top is now using the phanteks ph f140 on top and ml120 in the front. It's much quieter than before with pretty much the same temps. Need gpu based fan control but speedfan isn't playing nicely with my x99 rampage.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nycgtr*
> 
> 
> 
> Made some changes this weekend. I replaced the top rad with a ut60 280, which was my original plan. Replaced the sp120s. Top is now using the phanteks ph f140 on top and ml120 in the front. It's much quieter than before with pretty much the same temps. Need gpu based fan control but speedfan isn't playing nicely with my x99 rampage.


what dock is that?


----------



## FXformat

I'm done for now. Any comments/suggestions, good or bad, are welcomed.









And the whole battlestation setup


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FXformat*
> 
> And the whole battlestation setup


that is very nice...cable management is spot on


----------



## paskowitz

I would get 16 thread cable combs and straighten up those GPU cables. Other than that, I would paint the white PCIe brackets and maybe put a piece of acrylic over the PSU. Overall looks super clean and dandy.


----------



## FXformat

^^^ Ah you have OCD like me too, good eye. I do have black PCI covers from my other cases, don't know why i didn't use them, and i'd have to get new cable combs, not digging this separate look either.


----------



## kovyrshin

Seen that on /r/battlestations - great setup!


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FXformat*
> 
> ^^^ Ah you have OCD like me too, good eye. I do have black PCI covers from my other cases, don't know why i didn't use them, and i'd have to get new cable combs, not digging this separate look either.


For the record, my PC is the most organized thing in my life. My desk wishes it looked that clean.

For example this is my build. For me, if I am going to make one thing organized, lets say the tube runs, then I might as well keep everything else neat. Otherwise I just let everything be unorganized so nothing stands out. My first build was like that and it was fine for what it was.


----------



## FXformat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> For the record, my PC is the most organized thing in my life. My desk wishes it looked that clean.
> 
> For example this is my build. For me, if I am going to make one thing organized, lets say the tube runs, then I might as well keep everything else neat. Otherwise I just let everything be unorganized so nothing stands out. My first build was like that and it was fine for what it was.


That looks great! Very clean, I see that 16 count cable comb do make it look a lot cleaner. I have a couple 24 count I can cut down I guess, will rearrange it tonight and put the black pci cover on.


----------



## TMatzelle60

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FXformat*
> 
> I'm done for now. Any comments/suggestions, good or bad, are welcomed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the whole battlestation setup


Beautiful Build!.

How do you like the Riing Fans?


----------



## eskamobob1

does anyone know where I could get my hands on an enthoo elite still? Or possibly know if they plan to do another production run?


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FXformat*
> 
> I'm done for now. Any comments/suggestions, good or bad, are welcomed.
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the whole battlestation setup


Looks great. Can I ask what kind of desk you have, I have been looking for something new and like the look of yours.


----------



## FXformat

Rfarmer, inbuilt it myself, I build all of my desks, it's tough to find the dimensions I like for my setup so I have to take matters into my own hands. Brief diy here


http://imgur.com/fYYnI


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FXformat*
> 
> Rfarmer, inbuilt it myself, I build all of my desks, it's tough to find the dimensions I like for my setup so I have to take matters into my own hands. Brief diy here
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/fYYnI


Yeah knew it would be too easy to just go out and buy one. I am also having trouble finding a desk the size and configuration I want, might have to break out the tools like you did.


----------



## gkroller

Dude...nice!! What about those riing fans? too bright? to dim? just right?

Thanks for posting!


----------



## FXformat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TMatzelle60*
> 
> Beautiful Build!.
> 
> How do you like the Riing Fans?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gkroller*
> 
> Dude...nice!! What about those riing fans? too bright? to dim? just right?
> 
> Thanks for posting!


I love them personally, but a lot of people hate them because of the LEDs, but i like a little flashy in my builds so i went with them. Performance wise, i have yet to see my system break 50 degrees during gaming sessions, and they're really quiet too. Don't know what else to expect from fans;, i've used these in the last few builds and none have failed yet, so i'll keep using it. They're a little expensive if you buy them at retail, i have hookups so i pay $36 for a pack of 3, retail is $70.


----------



## nycgtr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FXformat*
> 
> I love them personally, but a lot of people hate them because of the LEDs, but i like a little flashy in my builds so i went with them. Performance wise, i have yet to see my system break 50 degrees during gaming sessions, and they're really quiet too. Don't know what else to expect from fans;, i've used these in the last few builds and none have failed yet, so i'll keep using it. They're a little expensive if you buy them at retail, i have hookups so i pay $36 for a pack of 3, retail is $70.


What rpm are your fans running to not break 50deg on full load with 1 360. Is this with the case sealed up?. My top rad spins at 1100 rpm, 860 rpm on the rear exhaust, and 1000-1400 rpm in the front. I am getting 59c max underload. This is with a 280 on top and 240 in front.


----------



## nycgtr

double post


----------



## FXformat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nycgtr*
> 
> What rpm are your fans running to not break 50deg on full load with 1 360. Is this with the case sealed up?. My top rad spins at 1100 rpm, 860 rpm on the rear exhaust, and 1000-1400 rpm in the front. I am getting 59c max underload. This is with a 280 on top and 240 in front.


I din't stress test this setup yet, but for my usage, the games i played, it hasn't broken 50 yet, hovers around 47-48. I had my fan curve in Qfan control by percentage and i don't really know what they're spinning at. Case wasn't sealed, i have the front open like you see in pictures.

I apologize, might've misrepresented my numbers without stating everything, i'm sure if i stress test this, and seal everything up, it'll get above 50.


----------



## pez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FXformat*
> 
> Okay i'm all done for now, i might change up the loop again when i get my PCI riser card so my GPU can be mounted vertically. What do you guys think? This is a cellphone pic in bad lighting, CPU idles at high 20s, during game it never got pass 45, i think this is good temps. I was getting mid 70s with my AMD lolol.
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Looks great. I bet once you have the riser card in there, it'll be even better as it will kinda 'fill the void' of empty space below the GPU. Great build and even better setup. I'm noticing more and more soundbars being used and am starting to consider something simple like this myself. Mind sharing which soundbar you are using?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rfarmer*
> 
> Yeah knew it would be too easy to just go out and buy one. I am also having trouble finding a desk the size and configuration I want, might have to break out the tools like you did.


Well, if you have an IKEA within a reasonable distance (in the same state) it would be worth it to go and check out what they have. Also, this site is amazing for maximizing the customization of IKEA stuff even further: http://www.ikeahackers.net/


----------



## TheAbyss

Very nice build, my System will run 3 Riings in Push on a 420 Rad in the Luxe. Front an rear are NB Eloops. I really like the riings too, but Performance wise there are better fans out there, but I live with the compromise quite well, given that there are Noctuas in Pull on the 420 Rad in the top (I know it´s not necessary for a Slim rad, but this way my plan is to run the riings quietly for the looks while the noctuas compensate for any Performance issues).

One remark to your build though, have you tried to dim/deactive the LED stripes and just let the riings do the work? I personally don´t like LED stripes being visible (even in reflections). You could use additional satin acrylic Sheets to create indirect lightning.

Sorry for bad english and capital letters, the auto-correction drives me nuts...


----------



## MrAgapiGC

I never understood these riing fans. I have a 360 rad, and in order to make that good temps i have to set my fans in a minimum spin of 1400 rpm, that is the max rpm on the riings. I start on normal mode then fix rpm, since none of those work i learn to work the % minim and temps. But thery are nice. I have 2 if the 140mm in white on top of my p400 in 1000rpm and i love how those light do!. Also I try the ML, fantastic fans. But i always have a spot for the eloop, I want to try them but need to learn how to those work with my p400 with the aio. i got the H115i and i was planning to change it to H110 v2. since is better to work with the bios. WC is expensive. still deciding. I have a lot on my mind right now, that is not computer related. but first i have to fix the paint on my case


----------



## seb12

Hey,

i'm currently considering to buy a Enthoo Pro M. I would like to install my 360mm Radiator in the front. I didn't find any maximum measurements for that radiator. I already got a aquacomputer airplex modularity 360mm which is pretty width - 146mm. Does somebody maybe know if that radiator would still fit through the "hole" of the "midplate cover"?

Thank you!!

Sebastian


----------



## BinaryBummer

best to go to the website and download the manual. It has all the layouts and specs.

http://www.phanteks.com/assets/manuals/PH-ES515P_Western.pdf


----------



## seb12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BinaryBummer*
> 
> best to go to the website and download the manual. It has all the layouts and specs.
> 
> http://www.phanteks.com/assets/manuals/PH-ES515P_Western.pdf


I'm sorry but I can't find there any information about the maximum width? I already know that a 360mm should fit the front - but I dont know if mine will do that aswell (with a width of 146mm). Already wrote a mail to Phanteks, but I was just hoping that somebody here can reply faster as I really want to order









Anyway, thank you









- Sebastian


----------



## BinaryBummer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seb12*
> 
> I'm sorry but I can't find there any information about the maximum width? I already know that a 360mm should fit the front - but I dont know if mine will do that aswell (with a width of 146mm). Already wrote a mail to Phanteks, but I was just hoping that somebody here can reply faster as I really want to order
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anyway, thank you
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> - Sebastian


All I see in the specs on the dimensions are
CASE SPECIFICATIONS
Dimension 235 mm x 480 mm x 500 mm (W x H x D)
9.25 in x 18.9 in x 19.7 in
Form Factor Mid Tower


----------



## seb12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BinaryBummer*
> 
> All I see in the specs on the dimensions are
> CASE SPECIFICATIONS
> Dimension 235 mm x 480 mm x 500 mm (W x H x D)
> 9.25 in x 18.9 in x 19.7 in
> Form Factor Mid Tower


Yeah, that's all I found aswell and is not really helpful for my case.

I'm searching for somebody who could measure the width as shown in the attached picture:



Thank you!


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrAgapiGC*
> 
> I never understood these riing fans. I have a 360 rad, and in order to make that good temps i have to set my fans in a minimum spin of 1400 rpm, that is the max rpm on the riings. I start on normal mode then fix rpm, since none of those work i learn to work the % minim and temps. But thery are nice. I have 2 if the 140mm in white on top of my p400 in 1000rpm and i love how those light do!. Also I try the ML, fantastic fans. But i always have a spot for the eloop, I want to try them but need to learn how to those work with my p400 with the aio. i got the H115i and i was planning to change it to H110 v2. since is better to work with the bios. WC is expensive. still deciding. I have a lot on my mind right now, that is not computer related. but first i have to fix the paint on my case


I have to wonder why anyone using a CLC would wonder about ring fans.







CLCs are without a doubt the bottom of the proverbial water cooling barrel. Everyone who has experience with real water cooling equipment hates CLCs more than ring fans.

They changed the model numbers on their little sailboats, but the sailboats didn't change .. they are the same product. I think the H110i GT OEM is CoolIt and H110i GTX OEM is Asetek, but both are under Asetek patent umbrella with near identical performance.
H110i GT = H110i.
H110i GTX = H115i
Statement by Corsair employee on their forum:
"Realistically there's minimal difference between the GT and GTX. The GT's LED controller is a little more flexible, but it also requires a separate power lead, while the GTX can be powered entirely off the single 4-pin CPU-FAN header. The GTX also has the removable cap."

To actually 'upgrade' you need to go to something like the be quiet! Silent Loop or Fractal Design Kelvin that are OEM Alphacool Alphacool's own Eisbaer. These have copper radiators, proper fittings and hoses that can be modded and/or changed. While their pump does not flow a lot more coolant, it is definitely better than CLC pumps and having proper fittings, fill port and holes components can be changed if need arises .. something unheard of in CLCs because they are 'hermetically sealed' units.

Next 'upgrade' step are AIOs like Swiftech H220, 240 & H320 X2 & X2 Prestige; and EK Predator coolers .. with pumps capable of running added components like a GPU waterblock in their loop.

Next is to get a pre-selected 'kit' with all the components needed for a loop (including coolant) that you assemble and fill.

Granted, AIOs cost half again or more than a CLC, but you get a much better build quality and can add to it, replace components when needed or reuse it's components in future builds .. none of which can be done with CLCs .. and we haven't even factored in how much better a copper radiator cools, or how much better their better pumps are speed controlled and can move more coolant when CPU or CPU & GPU need higher flow rates to cool properly.


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pez*
> 
> Well, if you have an IKEA within a reasonable distance (in the same state) it would be worth it to go and check out what they have. Also, this site is amazing for maximizing the customization of IKEA stuff even further: http://www.ikeahackers.net/


Closest IKEA is 300 miles away, wish there was one closer.


----------



## pez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rfarmer*
> 
> Closest IKEA is 300 miles away, wish there was one closer.


I made it a day trip, though it was only 160-ish miles one way. Truly the best idea I've ever had and I wish I had done it sooner. If you plan on spending a good amount there, it can be worth it. Find a bud that has a truck/SUV and I think you could convince them it's worth their time for a case of beer and some gas money







.


----------



## TheAbyss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pez*
> 
> I made it a day trip, though it was only 160-ish miles one way. Truly the best idea I've ever had and I wish I had done it sooner. If you plan on spending a good amount there, it can be worth it. Find a bud that has a truck/SUV and I think you could convince them it's worth their time for a case of beer and some gas money
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


There are two IKEAs in 30miles distance... from where I live.. and german beer.. and IKEA delivers to you doorstep.. so no Need to drive -> beer!


----------



## Testing12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seb12*
> 
> Yeah, that's all I found aswell and is not really helpful for my case.
> 
> I'm searching for somebody who could measure the width as shown in the attached picture:
> 
> 
> 
> Thank you!


Since the interior of the Pro M is the same as the Evolv ATX, it stands to reason that the PSU shroud front removable plate (which the manual refers to as the Midplate) size should be the same also--meaning that someone with an Evolv ATX could measure the opening, or you could expand your search to include the Evolv ATX.

At least, that's the theory. I could be wrong.


----------



## doyll

You could probably get 2 sided melamine surfaced particleboard at a lumberyard near you and use the iron-on edging. You will get an even better cut with a half decent table saw and a good blade.


----------



## nycgtr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seb12*
> 
> Yeah, that's all I found aswell and is not really helpful for my case.
> 
> I'm searching for somebody who could measure the width as shown in the attached picture:
> 
> 
> 
> Thank you!


It's slightly wider than 130mm. My 130mm wide rad just about slit in. My 140mm wide rad would not fit. I am uanble to measure it atm.


----------



## dikkiedirk

I have a Enthoo Primo. The hub has a short cable attached with a SATA power connector, not a Molex,like in the manual, is that correct? From the front Light button PCB I find 3 cables, 2 with SATA power connector and one with a molex connector of which only 2 pins are connected. Should all these be connected to the PSU or just the molex?Which is used to make the fans spin? Which is used to make the LED strip light up?


----------



## nycgtr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dikkiedirk*
> 
> I have a Enthoo Primo. The hub has a short cable attached with a SATA power connector, not a Molex,like in the manual, is that correct? From the front Light button PCB I find 3 cables, 2 with SATA power connector and one with a molex connector of which only 2 pins are connected. Should all these be connected to the PSU or just the molex?Which is used to make the fans spin? Which is used to make the LED strip light up?


The book reflects the older primo. I have 2 sata connections on my primo as well. One for the hub and one for the fan and lights for the IO.


----------



## nycgtr

The book reflects the older primo. I have 2 sata connections on my primo as well. One for the hub and one for the lights. I believe the molex is for fans. I never used it so I need to check.[/quote]


----------



## paskowitz

140mm Hardware Labs rads do NOT fit in the front of the Evolv.

Slightly separate note. Since my Evolv build is fully taken apart, I have come to the conclusion that Phanteks only needs to grow the size of the Evolv (or at least its mounts) by about 1 inch (height/length) and it's capabilities would be greatly increased. 1 inch would allow easy mounting of dual 360s. I see how they wanted to make it easy for AIOs... but IMO this didn't have to be an either or decision. Also, the front mounting rails have a very stupid design on the 140mm channel. 120mm and 140mm should be sliding... not just 120mm. Also the top chassis braces should have been slimmer but more frequent (or even a triangle pattern /\/\/\ ).


----------



## seb12

****, just ordered the case this afternoon.. Its really impossible to buy a affordable and clean lookin' case for that big radiators... Maybe I'm able to fit it with a bit of modding. If not its already the second case I will return this week. Corsair 400C also didn't work out.









I just don't get it, as the ODD Bay should be something approx. 150mm why is that opening only 130mm? They do look so much the same of width.

But thank you anyways for your help!


----------



## nycgtr

I come from big cases. The evolv atx is the smallest case I ever bought for my DD. I crammed an e-atx board into this case and 60mm 280 and a thin 240. Coming from a primo with 2 480s. I do have increased noise and temps but that's to be expected. The audience for this case aren't people who want to cram as much as possible into the case. In fact the case supports 3 ssds by default, even the dual ssd phanteks drive cage doesn't fit with the doors on. As with other small cases compromises need to be made. This case will not provide amazing watercooled temps as it doesn't have the room nor the free airflow. Your better off with 2 slim rads that have lower restriction for looks and performance.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dikkiedirk*
> 
> I have a Enthoo Primo. The hub has a short cable attached with a SATA power connector, not a Molex,like in the manual, is that correct? From the front Light button PCB I find 3 cables, 2 with SATA power connector and one with a molex connector of which only 2 pins are connected. Should all these be connected to the PSU or just the molex?Which is used to make the fans spin? Which is used to make the LED strip light up?


What nycgtr said.
The newer ones have SATA instead of the old 4-pin Molex connector.


----------



## TMatzelle60

Just got my FedEx delivery. Evolv ATX TG and omg its a heavy box. Now just have to get some other parts


----------



## seb12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nycgtr*
> 
> I come from big cases. The evolv atx is the smallest case I ever bought for my DD. I crammed an e-atx board into this case and 60mm 280 and a thin 240. Coming from a primo with 2 480s. I do have increased noise and temps but that's to be expected. The audience for this case aren't people who want to cram as much as possible into the case. In fact the case supports 3 ssds by default, even the dual ssd phanteks drive cage doesn't fit with the doors on. As with other small cases compromises need to be made. This case will not provide amazing watercooled temps as it doesn't have the room nor the free airflow. Your better off with 2 slim rads that have lower restriction for looks and performance.


I think overall its a very nice case (especially for that price with tempered glass and a psu shroud!) - it's just that 1 - 2cm that are missing in every single case I tried yet. The Corsair 400C had been to short for 1cm in the height and the radiator was colliding with the front panel and now it seems that the radiator is way too big. I'll see tomorrow. Maybe everythings works out better than I initially thought and I can fit the radiator into the top or get 1-2cm by filing the metal.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TMatzelle60*
> 
> Just got my FedEx delivery. Evolv ATX TG and omg its a heavy box. Now just have to get some other parts


All this time I thought it was a heavy case, not a heavy box! Thanks for setting me straight.


----------



## BinaryBummer

I just go with a full tower case since it can give me the much needed room. I would like a smaller form but I don't want to end up one day trying to shoe horn components. I like the cars in the old days as well, lift the hood and all the room you could need to work on it. Hardly efficient.

I dusted out my system yesterday and forgot how heavy it was. I wanted the TG model but I did not want to wait for it. I rather these companies stop with all the teasers and get the product built stocked then let it out. All this delayed is just uneasy with consumers.


----------



## eXistencelies

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> 140mm Hardware Labs rads do NOT fit in the front of the Evolv.
> 
> Slightly separate note. Since my Evolv build is fully taken apart, I have come to the conclusion that Phanteks only needs to grow the size of the Evolv (or at least its mounts) by about 1 inch (height/length) and it's capabilities would be greatly increased. 1 inch would allow easy mounting of dual 360s. I see how they wanted to make it easy for AIOs... but IMO this didn't have to be an either or decision. Also, the front mounting rails have a very stupid design on the 140mm channel. 120mm and 140mm should be sliding... not just 120mm. Also the top chassis braces should have been slimmer but more frequent (or even a triangle pattern /\/\/\ ).


What?

I fit two 360's in my Evolv case just fine.


----------



## nycgtr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seb12*
> 
> I think overall its a very nice case (especially for that price with tempered glass and a psu shroud!) - it's just that 1 - 2cm that are missing in every single case I tried yet. The Corsair 400C had been to short for 1cm in the height and the radiator was colliding with the front panel and now it seems that the radiator is way too big. I'll see tomorrow. Maybe everythings works out better than I initially thought and I can fit the radiator into the top or get 1-2cm by filing the metal.


I get what you mean. A 2 inch increase would of helped dramatically for me. I ran into the following fitment issues building in this case.

1) D5 pump is a struggle if you don't want to drill holes or/and dont have slim rads. I couldn't even stand mine up at the basment. I was going to install it on top of shroud but decided not to. I then thought I would mount it to the front back area with a plexi and attach my res to it. Turned out my reservoir was 2inches too long (150ml bitspower). If i threw up the pump into the basement in that area then I couldn't fit a radiator.

2) Basement opening pretty much only useful with a slim rad in the front or you will have to make a pass thru. (Also means drill holes for pump at the bottom)

Anyone who looks to watercool in this case I have 2 suggestions.

SLIM RADIATORS (if you want more than 1) AND DDC PUMPS.


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eXistencelies*
> 
> What?
> 
> I fit two 360's in my Evolv case just fine.


Your definition of just fine is probably a little broader than mine. Two HWL GTS rads requires a rear fan delete or a super tight squeeze or using the crap EK SE rads. It would also make the building / tubing process much easier.


----------



## geriatricpollywog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> 140mm Hardware Labs rads do NOT fit in the front of the Evolv.
> 
> Slightly separate note. Since my Evolv build is fully taken apart, I have come to the conclusion that Phanteks only needs to grow the size of the Evolv (or at least its mounts) by about 1 inch (height/length) and it's capabilities would be greatly increased. 1 inch would allow easy mounting of dual 360s. I see how they wanted to make it easy for AIOs... but IMO this didn't have to be an either or decision. Also, the front mounting rails have a very stupid design on the 140mm channel. 120mm and 140mm should be sliding... not just 120mm. Also the top chassis braces should have been slimmer but more frequent (or even a triangle pattern /\/\/\ ).


----------



## Omie

So I notice that my case occasionally makes these "popping" noises when I first turn it on and play games for maybe an hour in. After that the noise isn't noticeable much as it doesn't do it as often. Even when the PC is turned off after a gaming session, I can hear the popping noises occur randomly in the span of an hour, but it's not really that frequent.

The noise is basically like when something gets stiff and you press down on it and it sort of making a crackling noise.

I hear it mostly coming from the top where my radiator for the H115i is. My case is an Enthoo Luxe Tempered Glass edition.

Here is my full build: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/dNhpVY

Is there anyway to get rid of this or is it normal? I don't wear headphones so it gets quite annoying hearing this.


----------



## nycgtr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0451*


Why didn't you just use a different case. If your mounting radiators to the external side and cant close the door.


----------



## eXistencelies

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> Your definition of just fine is probably a little broader than mine. Two HWL GTS rads requires a rear fan delete or a super tight squeeze or using the crap EK SE rads. It would also make the building / tubing process much easier.


I was able to fit a rear exhaust fan just fine. I used two 360 GTS'

https://pcpartpicker.com/b/qmd6Mp


----------



## Jsunn

Well, I'm an official club member now. I got my Luxe tempered glass yesterday and started to look at how I'm going to put things together. I could use your advice, I've started a build log and have posted some pictures of what I was thinking.

Any and all input is welcome!

-Jason


----------



## geriatricpollywog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nycgtr*
> 
> Why didn't you just use a different case. If your mounting radiators to the external side and cant close the door.


I can close both doors. The only external radiator is a 140mm in the rear. My goal was simply to have the coldest possible watercooled midtower. I couldn't have done this with any other case without going full tower.


----------



## FXformat

What temps are you getting with your setup?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0451*
> 
> I can close both doors. The only external radiator is a 140mm in the rear. My goal was simply to have the coldest possible watercooled midtower. I couldn't have done this with any other case without going full tower.


----------



## geriatricpollywog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FXformat*
> 
> What temps are you getting with your setup?


Depends on fan speed. Heavily overclocked (5ghz cpu, 1150/600 gpu) in Witcher 3 or Deus Ex, the system stabilizes at a Delta T of 10 Celsius with a fan speed of 1000.

With light OC and fans at 1400, Delta T is 6-7 in the same games.


----------



## MrAgapiGC

I can not agree with you more. Yes all those options are way better options. I did order the predator. but cancel the order, and i glad i did. I am checking some website to see ideas. i did check a video yesterday with p400 TG build VERY nice. and simple. now i need the 900 usd for all the parts since new prices and taxes are in order to bring stuff.

I was checking the airplex Radical from Aquacomputer. since the way that is build, no contact with flux, so is clean inside. prices with them are not bad. and have nice soft tuting that i can start with it. I was thinking contact the company and order al parts from ModmyMods. is more advice that price since i need more advice. Adding another case like the evolve or the pro M with 2 rads like 240s


----------



## nycgtr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0451*
> 
> I can close both doors. The only external radiator is a 140mm in the rear. My goal was simply to have the coldest possible watercooled midtower. I couldn't have done this with any other case without going full tower.


Wow I was thinking it was possible to put a rad there but thickness might of been an issue. Which brings up the point of how does that rad even breathe? Honestly, I don't think your temps would change much 1-2 if you dropped that one behind the case and the one on the side.

As an update on my temps. I swapped the top for a 280 instead of the 240. Dropped two ml 140s on it and now my gpu load temps do not exceed 52.


----------



## mrpurplehawk

So this happened. First time watercooling so I'd say not that bad


----------



## geriatricpollywog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nycgtr*
> 
> Wow I was thinking it was possible to put a rad there but thickness might of been an issue. Which brings up the point of how does that rad even breathe? Honestly, I don't think your temps would change much 1-2 if you dropped that one behind the case and the one on the side.
> 
> As an update on my temps. I swapped the top for a 280 instead of the 240. Dropped two ml 140s on it and now my gpu load temps do not exceed 52.


Nice improvement.

My fans create positive pressure, so some air gets through the radiator. It probably is good for 1/2 a degree of delta T, and only under max load.

The SE360 was just a spare part for my build. I was about to sell it, but instead found room inside the case.


----------



## geriatricpollywog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mrpurplehawk*
> 
> So this happened. First time watercooling so I'd say not that bad


Nice. You have some more room for fans on the upper radiator.

Have you tested it yet?


----------



## mrpurplehawk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0451*
> 
> Nice. You have some more room for fans on the upper radiator.
> 
> Have you tested it yet?


Yea I haven't decided if I want to add 4 more fans there. My temps have been pretty nice so far though

Yea, that was after I leak tested but before I finished the install of all my PSU cables, so far she is running great no real issues except the part where I didn't notice the port on the rear of the reservoir







Looked like I slit someones throat on my desk haha


----------



## nycgtr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mrpurplehawk*
> 
> Yea I haven't decided if I want to add 4 more fans there. My temps have been pretty nice so far though
> 
> Yea, that was after I leak tested but before I finished the install of all my PSU cables, so far she is running great no real issues except the part where I didn't notice the port on the rear of the reservoir
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Looked like I slit someones throat on my desk haha


I had a similar setup. With a 480 on top and 240 in the front. At one point another rad at the bottom.( exact same one as yours actually) One set of fans is more than enough. The gripe I have about that kind of setup is the reservoir makes so you can't take any gpu over 10.5 inches.


----------



## mrpurplehawk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nycgtr*
> 
> I had a similar setup. With a 480 on top and 240 in the front. At one point another rad at the bottom.( exact same one as yours actually) One set of fans is more than enough. The gripe I have about that kind of setup is the reservoir makes so you can't take any gpu over 10.5 inches.


Yea there is only a few millimeters from the res. Had to be extremely careful installing the GPU's


----------



## pez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheAbyss*
> 
> There are two IKEAs in 30miles distance... from where I live.. and german beer.. and IKEA delivers to you doorstep.. so no Need to drive -> beer!


It's probably good that I don't have that easy of access to IKEA







. I'm loving the furniture and desks I bought from them. I'd be tempted to go storage or 'hack' crazy with it







.


----------



## seb12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nycgtr*
> 
> I get what you mean. A 2 inch increase would of helped dramatically for me. I ran into the following fitment issues building in this case.
> 
> 1) D5 pump is a struggle if you don't want to drill holes or/and dont have slim rads. I couldn't even stand mine up at the basment. I was going to install it on top of shroud but decided not to. I then thought I would mount it to the front back area with a plexi and attach my res to it. Turned out my reservoir was 2inches too long (150ml bitspower). If i threw up the pump into the basement in that area then I couldn't fit a radiator.
> 
> 2) Basement opening pretty much only useful with a slim rad in the front or you will have to make a pass thru. (Also means drill holes for pump at the bottom)
> 
> Anyone who looks to watercool in this case I have 2 suggestions.
> 
> SLIM RADIATORS (if you want more than 1) AND DDC PUMPS.


Totally agree with you, but.. IT FITS:



OMG







I think I'm the happiest person in the world right now, it looks like my case journey is finally over









For anyone interested: The "hole" has a width of about 146mm, which should even fit the biggest radiators. I'm using a Aquacomputer Airplex Modularity 360


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seb12*
> 
> Totally agree with you, but.. IT FITS:
> 
> 
> 
> OMG
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think I'm the happiest person in the world right now, it looks like my case journey is finally over
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For anyone interested: The "hole" has a width of about 146mm, which should even fit the biggest radiators. I'm using a Aquacomputer Airplex Modularity 360


that is a smooth looking radiator....i considered a scratch build with two of their 580s when i built my primo but honestly i have the same amount of rad space or close and saved about 400 dollars on radiators....but it wouldve looked great lol


----------



## seb12

I got the rad used for ~60€ on a german marketplace, otherwise I would have bought a different aswell. Now I'm just thinking if I maybe should buy another slim 240 to put it in the top. We will see


----------



## mrpurplehawk

Got everything hooked up, just waiting on my supplies to sleeve my cables. Pretty happy with the result.


----------



## nycgtr

kinda regret moving to the evolv as I am looking at my empty primo. I think a monster build is coming later this year for the primo. One more go at the super large lower.


----------



## gkroller

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FXformat*
> 
> I had my fan curve in Qfan control by percentage and i don't really know what they're spinning at.


Is Qfan built into all ASUS mobos, and does it control a 3 pin DC voltage case fan down to 60% of full voltage?


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gkroller*
> 
> Is Qfan built into all ASUS mobos, and does it control a 3 pin DC voltage case fan down to 60% of full voltage?


No (though there will be some type of variant), and sometimes. Differs from board to board. Any one in particular you are asking about?


----------



## gkroller

No, not right now. I'm getting my new case today and need a new mobo. In order of importance:
1. control of 3 pin DCV device down to 60% (Voltage vs temp profile in BIOS)
2. lighting effect for controlling case LED strips.
3. selectable LED color for the mobo local LED bling.

I mentioned "Qfan" in my post because I'm familiar with it, but need not be ASUS brand as long as #1 above is satisfied.
Any suggestions appreciated.


----------



## mrpurplehawk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nycgtr*
> 
> kinda regret moving to the evolv as I am looking at my empty primo. I think a monster build is coming later this year for the primo. One more go at the super large lower.


I love big cases so its perfect for me


----------



## mrpurplehawk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mrpurplehawk*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> so I finally managed to get some room to work on my Primo without having to pull my second desk out


Small update as I finished my loop.


----------



## nycgtr

You should get the clear window from mnpctech. It's pricey for a window but I feel it brings the primo up to date. I will be ordering mine when I build in the primo again. After moving to the evolv when I ditched sli. Can't help but miss the case. That evolv looks nice but it feels so weird to have a small pc and its so damn loud compared to before.


----------



## mrpurplehawk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nycgtr*
> 
> You should get the clear window from mnpctech. It's pricey for a window but I feel it brings the primo up to date. I will be ordering mine when I build in the primo again. After moving to the evolv when I ditched sli. Can't help but miss the case. That evolv looks nice but it feels so weird to have a small pc and its so damn loud compared to before.


IDK how I managed this but I posted these pictures in the wrong thread


----------



## Splash74

I did it i went and bought a Enthoo Elite today i just don't understand how i can justify that case is way overpriced.
But I fell in love with that casei im using a Enthoo Luxe tempered today and I was planing for a Caselabs MN8 magnum build later this year.
But I just can't help the looks on caselabs cases and the Enthoo Elite is beautiful compared and it has mega watercooling features buildt in already .
So im pushing this build ahead in a few weeks i will post URL for build log when the build is abit on the way if anyone wants to peak.

Just a summary of intended components that will be used in the build

Asus Rampage V Extreme edition 10

Intel i7 6850k speedbinned @ 4.6ghz and delidded "silicone lottery"

Corsair Dominator quadchanel 64gb16x4 3466 CL16 sticks

Samsung M2 960pro 1TB system drive

2 Graphicscards eVGA 1080GTX FTW SLI

Watercooling components

EK-FB ASUS R5-E10 Monoblock RGB Edition CPU mosfet northbridge cooling
EK-FC1080 GTX FTW - Acetal+Nickel Full covers EK-FC1080 GTX Backplate - Red 2 of each
EK-XTOP Revo Dual D5 PWM Serial 2x pumps
MONSOON MMRS Fully customized reservoirs 300ml 2 colors red/matte black
MONSOON Free center hardline hardtube 16/12mm red/matte black
4 HWLabs black ice nemesis GTR 480 radiators push-pull setup

The builds colours will try to match the motherboard colours red black so wish me luck this is my dream build I've been dreaming of.


----------



## capitaltpt

Planning on getting a Primo in the near future and while I've done tons of research, I have a few questions hopefully someone can answer:

1. For my build, I'm planning on cutting off the bottom half of the 5.25" side bracket. Does Phanteks sell this bracket by itself for replacement (or resellability of the case) later?

2. I know 127mm is the maximum radiator width in the bottom with the 5.25 bracket in. What's the maximum it will fit without the bracket? (I'm considering the Hardware Labs 360 SR2 which is 133mm)

3. Has anyone found a good RGB strip to replace the exterior blue LED on the case?

I appreciate the help. Would be great if Phanteks had a revision of the Primo that addressed all these things and maybe even added Tempered Glass.


----------



## geriatricpollywog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Splash74*
> 
> I did it i went and bought a Enthoo Elite today i just don't understand how i can justify that case is way overpriced.
> But I fell in love with that casei im using a Enthoo Luxe tempered today and I was planing for a Caselabs MN8 magnum build later this year.
> But I just can't help the looks on caselabs cases and the Enthoo Elite is beautiful compared and it has mega watercooling features buildt in already .
> So im pushing this build ahead in a few weeks i will post URL for build log when the build is abit on the way if anyone wants to peak.
> 
> Just a summary of intended components that will be used in the build
> 
> Asus Rampage V Extreme edition 10
> 
> Intel i7 6850k speedbinned @ 4.6ghz and delidded "silicone lottery"
> 
> Corsair Dominator quadchanel 64gb16x4 3466 CL16 sticks
> 
> Samsung M2 960pro 1TB system drive
> 
> 2 Graphicscards eVGA 1080GTX FTW SLI
> 
> Watercooling components
> 
> EK-FB ASUS R5-E10 Monoblock RGB Edition CPU mosfet northbridge cooling
> EK-FC1080 GTX FTW - Acetal+Nickel Full covers EK-FC1080 GTX Backplate - Red 2 of each
> EK-XTOP Revo Dual D5 PWM Serial 2x pumps
> MONSOON MMRS Fully customized reservoirs 300ml 2 colors red/matte black
> MONSOON Free center hardline hardtube 16/12mm red/matte black
> 4 HWLabs black ice nemesis GTR 480 radiators push-pull setup
> 
> The builds colours will try to match the motherboard colours red black so wish me luck this is my dream build I've been dreaming of.


I'm interested to see how those 4 GTRs perform. What speed are you running your fans?


----------



## Splash74

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0451*
> 
> I'm interested to see how those 4 GTRs perform. What speed are you running your fans?


Im sorry still exspecting delivery in 1 to 2 weeks preordered from the UK im from sweden no way to buy them ,
So il post stats when they are up and running but i have a rewiev link that you can check out prepare to be amazed bud ive never seen this much brutal performance across the whole range.
I will be using Corsair ML120PRO fans red led 32 fans total on the radiators
I played around 155$ per radiator pretty expensive .

http://thermalbench.com/2016/11/22/hardware-labs-black-ice-nemesis-gtr-480-radiator/


----------



## paskowitz

I'm not sure the GTR was the right choice unless you really like fan noise. Even in P/P they perform worse than the GTX up to ~1200RPM.


----------



## Splash74

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> I'm not sure the GTR was the right choice unless you really like fan noise. Even in P/P they perform worse than the GTX up to ~1200RPM.


Ur right that my only consern but i talked to the Guy who runs thermalbench site after the GTR 480 rewiev
To get som advise concerning P/P using the corsair ML120pro fans Im using for my build and hos recomendaion was the ML PRO just for the fact they give Almodóvar as good performance peaked as 3000 rpm fans as noctua .
But Im Running PWN mode on a Aquaero 6XT with SATA power PWN splitters .
IT should reduce fans overall speed when the PC is idle .


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> I'm not sure the GTR was the right choice unless you really like fan noise. Even in P/P they perform worse than the GTX up to ~1200RPM.


Which is essentially the same as a GTS in push only at those speeds.....which is obviously far quieter.


----------



## Splash74

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Which is essentially the same as a GTS in push only at those speeds.....which is obviously far quieter.


Well this was a hard choice from the getgo plan was GTX rad but the GTS across the scale is the most impressive performance i personaly seen .
I do belive the corsair ML 120mm version has the best of airflow/airpressure of most fans
12 - 75 CFM and 0.2 - 4.2 mmH20 static pressure 2400rpm with accepteble 16 - 37 dBA
I will find out soon anyway could be cheap hwlabs GTS 480 rads for sale ?


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Splash74*
> 
> Ur right that my only consern but i talked to the Guy who runs thermalbench site after the GTR 480 rewiev
> To get som advise concerning P/P using the corsair ML120pro fans Im using for my build and hos recomendaion was the ML PRO just for the fact they give Almodóvar as good performance peaked as 3000 rpm fans as noctua .
> But Im Running PWN mode on a Aquaero 6XT with SATA power PWN splitters .
> IT should reduce fans overall speed when the PC is idle .


Not even exaggerating, if you can, I would return the GTRs for GTXs or GTS/GTX. Not for performance but for noise. With that much rad you could just leave GTXs at 800rpm and call it a day. I bet you wouldn't even hit 50c on any processor under full load at that speed. IMO that is worth it.


----------



## Splash74

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> Not even exaggerating, if you can, I would return the GTRs for GTXs or GTS/GTX. Not for performance but for noise. With that much rad you could just leave GTXs at 800rpm and call it a day. I bet you wouldn't even hit 50c on any processor under full load at that speed. IMO that is worth it.


Original plan was to use EKWB radiators coolstream XE480s low to medium fans the EK XE is 60mm thick thought but XE series preform just as good as a GTX no way less bucks but have you heard the GTR in action by the way?
Ur making reconsider the choice to be honest im worried about the sound levels on the GTR no denying that.


----------



## geriatricpollywog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> I'm not sure the GTR was the right choice unless you really like fan noise. Even in P/P they perform worse than the GTX up to ~1200RPM.


That is with crappy fans and no push/pull.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Splash74*
> 
> Im sorry still exspecting delivery in 1 to 2 weeks preordered from the UK im from sweden no way to buy them ,
> So il post stats when they are up and running but i have a rewiev link that you can check out prepare to be amazed bud ive never seen this much brutal performance across the whole range.
> I will be using Corsair ML120PRO fans red led 32 fans total on the radiators
> I played around 155$ per radiator pretty expensive .
> 
> http://thermalbench.com/2016/11/22/hardware-labs-black-ice-nemesis-gtr-480-radiator/


I feel you. I paid around $110 for a 280 GTR but I don't know how it performs individually becauae I have 5 unique radiators in my system. I am using 4 Corsair ML140 fans in push/pull and the GTR is no louder than my EK CE280, which is considered a quiet radiator.


----------



## eskamobob1

for anyone else interested in it, the elite is back up for sale on the phanteks usa


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0451*
> 
> That is with crappy fans and no push/pull.
> I feel you. I paid around $110 for a 280 GTR but I don't know how it performs individually becauae I have 5 unique radiators in my system. I am using 4 Corsair ML140 fans in push/pull and the GTR is no louder than my EK CE280, which is considered a quiet radiator.


Thermalbench review used NB PK and Vardars... not exactly crappy fans.

It's pretty simple, GTX performs better thermally and accusticly below 1300RPM in PP and is cheaper. More so GTX doesn't need PP as much as the GTR does, further reducing the cost. So for 99% of situations, the GTX is better.


----------



## geriatricpollywog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> Thermalbench review used NB PK and Vardars... not exactly crappy fans.
> 
> It's pretty simple, GTX performs better thermally and accusticly below 1300RPM in PP and is cheaper. More so GTX doesn't need PP as much as the GTR does, further reducing the cost. So for 99% of situations, the GTX is better.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> ^ Other way round when it comes to fans, and that is the biggest reason. The EK Coolstream PE has more airflow restriction than the Alphacool ST30 generally, and so it will fare better with fans that are better performing. The GTs are better performing than the NB-eLoops I used, and so the EK PE + GT combo worked out better for Extreme Rigs vs me using the NB eLoops. Other things will also affect results of course, but don't forget the fans


http://www.overclock.net/t/1621032/discrepancy-between-thermal-bench-extreme-rigs-reviews-of-alphacool-st30-vs-ek-pe

He used NB e-loop for the GTR review. He also conceded on this forum that e-loops are not the best performing fans. I don't recall seeing anything about push/pull or 1300rpm in any GTR review.

And Geggeg, if you are reading this and disagree or feel I took that quote out of context, I'll delete this post.


----------



## Chiobe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0451*
> 
> I don't recall seeing anything about push/pull or 1300rpm in any GTR review.


http://thermalbench.com/2017/02/07/hardware-labs-black-ice-nemesis-gtr-560-radiator/5/
I think its that one that is refereed to.


----------



## Splash74

Well I do believe the ML 120 fans will make a huge difference compared to the NB.eloop 12-1 and put push-pull on top as a said thermalbenchs advice was with 100% certian of minimal noice level due to better and double amount of fans i cant cancel the purchase either so i will keep the faith i trust thermalbench's reviews and he is very helpful .
I'm a big fan of his work he seems to be impartial when it comes to testing , he knows his stuff in all honesty.
And the push-pull test on the GTR 560 radiator is will not be at all the same compared with a GTR 480
The 140mm fans move a lot of air and quietly but i don't believe they can perform as well as 120mm fans .
So the maglev beering in the fans i have are quieter then ive ever heard before .


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0451*
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1621032/discrepancy-between-thermal-bench-extreme-rigs-reviews-of-alphacool-st30-vs-ek-pe
> 
> He used NB e-loop for the GTR review. He also conceded on this forum that e-loops are not the best performing fans. I don't recall seeing anything about push/pull or 1300rpm in any GTR review.
> 
> And Geggeg, if you are reading this and disagree or feel I took that quote out of context, I'll delete this post.


http://thermalbench.com/2017/02/07/hardware-labs-black-ice-nemesis-gtr-560-radiator/5/

Specially, the bottom of the page. My point is simple, why spend $20 more for a rad in push that performs worse up to unreasonable daily rpms or pay even more for another set of fans for push pull just to get bring back the gap? Just doesn't make sense to me.

Even if the fans were an issue, the gap is not marginal enough.


----------



## geriatricpollywog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> http://thermalbench.com/2017/02/07/hardware-labs-black-ice-nemesis-gtr-560-radiator/5/
> 
> Specially, the bottom of the page. My point is simple, why spend $20 more for a rad in push that performs worse up to unreasonable daily rpms or pay even more for another set of fans for push pull just to get bring back the gap? Just doesn't make sense to me.
> 
> Even if the fans were an issue, the gap is not marginal enough.


Ah, didn't see the new review.


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0451*
> 
> Ah, didn't see the new review.


NP. I mean, in the end we aren't talking about a big difference here so it's really NBD.


----------



## Splash74

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chiobe*
> 
> http://thermalbench.com/2017/02/07/hardware-labs-black-ice-nemesis-gtr-560-radiator/5/
> I think its that one that is refereed to.


Indeed when he slapped on the FF4 140mm 2000 rpm fans it was a lot different but still there are even better fans then that vardar fan .


----------



## owcraftsman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *capitaltpt*
> 
> Planning on getting a Primo in the near future and while I've done tons of research, I have a few questions hopefully someone can answer:
> 
> 1. For my build, I'm planning on cutting off the bottom half of the 5.25" side bracket. Does Phanteks sell this bracket by itself for replacement (or resellability of the case) later?
> 
> 2. I know 127mm is the maximum radiator width in the bottom with the 5.25 bracket in. What's the maximum it will fit without the bracket? (I'm considering the Hardware Labs 360 SR2 which is 133mm)
> 
> 3. Has anyone found a good RGB strip to replace the exterior blue LED on the case?
> 
> I appreciate the help. Would be great if Phanteks had a revision of the Primo that addressed all these things and maybe even added Tempered Glass.


1) I've considered the same mod but decided against it but in the planning stage my best solution was to use a plexi or acrylic panel for divider/support in lieu of cutting an original part. It wouldn't take much if you are handy. I would contact Phanteks directly to see if the part is available. They are typically quite responsive. I used a Monsta 360 problem solved.

2) problem is having holes line up for mounting but with divider removed it will fit.

3) On page 1 (OP) in the FAQ drop down for the Primo lies the answer to your question regarding the led strip. Plenty of other good info there too so take your time.

*Can I change the LEDs from blue to a different color?*
- Yes you can. The LED strip used by Phanteks is 5.5mm wide. Guide here:
http://themodzoo.com/forum/index.php?/topic/883-enthoo-primo-front-led-color-change/

edit: BTW mnpctech has a full side acrylic panel which is quite nice. It's down $10 bucks from original price too.

https://mnpctech.com/phanteks-case-mods/phanteks-enthoo-primo-clear-window-replacement-side-panel.html


----------



## capitaltpt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *owcraftsman*
> 
> 1) I've considered the same mod but decided against it but in the planning stage my best solution was to use a plexi or acrylic panel for divider/support in lieu of cutting an original part. It wouldn't take much if you are handy. I would contact Phanteks directly to see if the part is available. They are typically quite responsive. I used a Monsta 360 problem solved.
> 
> 2) problem is having holes line up for mounting but with divider removed it will fit.
> 
> 3) On page 1 (OP) in the FAQ drop down for the Primo lies the answer to your question regarding the led strip. Plenty of other good info there too so take your time.
> *Can I change the LEDs from blue to a different color?*
> 
> - Yes you can. The LED strip used by Phanteks is 5.5mm wide. Guide here:
> http://themodzoo.com/forum/index.php?/topic/883-enthoo-primo-front-led-color-change/
> 
> edit: BTW mnpctech has a full side acrylic panel which is quite nice. It's down $10 bucks from original price too.
> https://mnpctech.com/phanteks-case-mods/phanteks-enthoo-primo-clear-window-replacement-side-panel.html


Thanks for the response. Did you decide upon an acrylic divider for structural support or just to replace the existing part entirely?

I've seen the LED discussion linked, however most of the LEDs linked were single color ones from ebay stores which no longer exist, as the thread is from over 2 years ago. The one linked RGB was from a seller in Hong Kong and I'd prefer to buy something domestically. Just wondering what other people have used recently, if anything.


----------



## PetrasSukys

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *capitaltpt*
> 
> I've seen the LED discussion linked, however most of the LEDs linked were single color ones from ebay stores which no longer exist, as the thread is from over 2 years ago. The one linked RGB was from a seller in Hong Kong and I'd prefer to buy something domestically. Just wondering what other people have used recently, if anything.


Other people used the ones from Hong Kong


----------



## owcraftsman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *capitaltpt*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *owcraftsman*
> 
> 1) I've considered the same mod but decided against it but in the planning stage my best solution was to use a plexi or acrylic panel for divider/support in lieu of cutting an original part. It wouldn't take much if you are handy. I would contact Phanteks directly to see if the part is available. They are typically quite responsive. I used a Monsta 360 problem solved.
> 
> 2) problem is having holes line up for mounting but with divider removed it will fit.
> 
> 3) On page 1 (OP) in the FAQ drop down for the Primo lies the answer to your question regarding the led strip. Plenty of other good info there too so take your time.
> *Can I change the LEDs from blue to a different color?*
> 
> - Yes you can. The LED strip used by Phanteks is 5.5mm wide. Guide here:
> http://themodzoo.com/forum/index.php?/topic/883-enthoo-primo-front-led-color-change/
> 
> edit: BTW mnpctech has a full side acrylic panel which is quite nice. It's down $10 bucks from original price too.
> https://mnpctech.com/phanteks-case-mods/phanteks-enthoo-primo-clear-window-replacement-side-panel.html
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for the response. Did you decide upon an acrylic divider for structural support or just to replace the existing part entirely?
> 
> I've seen the LED discussion linked, however most of the LEDs linked were single color ones from ebay stores which no longer exist, as the thread is from over 2 years ago. The one linked RGB was from a seller in Hong Kong and I'd prefer to buy something domestically. Just wondering what other people have used recently, if anything.
Click to expand...

Quote:



> Originally Posted by *PetrasSukys*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *capitaltpt*
> 
> I've seen the LED discussion linked, however most of the LEDs linked were single color ones from ebay stores which no longer exist, as the thread is from over 2 years ago. The one linked RGB was from a seller in Hong Kong and I'd prefer to buy something domestically. Just wondering what other people have used recently, if anything.
> 
> 
> 
> Other people used the ones from Hong Kong
Click to expand...

I used a monsta which fits w/o removing divider so no I did not remove it.

The key to replacing the LED strip is making sure it is 5.5 mm wide or less no matter where it comes from. The additional wires up to 5 vs 2 will be cumbersome to conceal but should be doable. However upon reflection it seems to me someone here crammed a wider strip in there but I forget how large it was. You could always search the thread.

This http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-5...100005%26rk%3D6%26rkt%3D6%26sd%3D262394562039would be everything you need and more to make the mod. So DO IT No guts no glory







Share Pics here too







but you could wait for someone whose recently done it to chime in. Not saying it can't happen but GL w/dat

21" x2 one top one front is the size of the strips Phanteks uses in a Primo or 1.06m so 2m should be plenty to get the job done but may be hard to find in that small a size w/ pwr supply and controller.

I've ordered tons of stuff from China and never had an issue, except the long wait for it to arrive generally 4-6 week and they always over estimate meaning it typically arrives sooner than they say it will.

In any case the link I found for you, has pics and guide lines I'm sure you can use to get it done.

GL

final edit

I emailed the supplier of the 5mm wide rgb strips to see if they sold a pwr supply and controller for the strip and the link is below,

Here


----------



## phillyd

Can you guys help me determine if I can pull off the following components in the Evolv ATX (TG)?

Alphacool 2x120 Monsta radiator with push/pull fans in the front.
Alphacool 3x120mm XT45 radiator with one set of fans in the front top.

I am worried that the triple rad in the top would prevent me from mounting the Monsta in the top two 120mm fan slots in the front of the case. Can anyone test this? If it's blocked, can the second set of fans and the 86mm thick radiator fit in the bottom two slots with that removable cover taken out?

I'm also trying to figure out how much space and where I'd have for a pump and reservoir.

Thanks!


----------



## geriatricpollywog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> Can you guys help me determine if I can pull off the following components in the Evolv ATX (TG)?
> 
> Alphacool 2x120 Monsta radiator with push/pull fans in the front.
> Alphacool 3x120mm XT45 radiator with one set of fans in the front.
> 
> I am worried that the triple rad in the top would prevent me from mounting the Monsta in the top two 120mm fan slots in the front of the case. Can anyone test this? If it's blocked, can the second set of fans and the 86mm thick radiator fit in the bottom two slots with that removable cover taken out?
> 
> I'm also trying to figure out how much space and where I'd have for a pump and reservoir.
> 
> Thanks!


You may have to dremmel a bit for the monsta to fit.

This setup is farm from ideal. For the Evolv ATX, you should use thinner radiators with large surface area. The case has restricted airflow.

I've had success with my setup. I'd suggest dual Hardware Labs GTS 280 top/front. Go push/pull in the front and push only top.


----------



## phillyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0451*
> 
> You may have to dremmel a bit for the monsta to fit.
> 
> This setup is farm from ideal. For the Evolv ATX, you should use thinner radiators with large surface area. The case has restricted airflow.
> 
> I've had success with my setup. I'd suggest dual Hardware Labs GTS 280 top/front. Go push/pull in the front and push only top.


While I may replace the Monsta radiator, I won't be replacing both radiators and all of the fans.

Why would I have to dremel? There is space above the basement for a 2x120mm radiator, and enough space for it going deeper into the case, it's just an issue of if the top of the radiator would interfere with the 360mm top radiator. It would help to know the dimensions from the PSU shroud to the radiator bracket vertically in the case. I could potentially determine if it would fit.

For airflow, I believe that the 4 Corsair SP120's will do plenty to make up for the very low FPI Monsta radiator, and an AF140 fan intaking from the back of the case would provide sufficient airflow. I could potentially even fill the bottom 120mm fan slot in the front with another fan for improved airflow. To clarify, I would be running a single GPU setup, and the radiators would be complete overkill for the setup. However, I already have them, and I even think the Monsta radiator in the front would look excellent.


----------



## pez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Splash74*
> 
> I did it i went and bought a Enthoo Elite today i just don't understand how i can justify that case is way overpriced.
> But I fell in love with that casei im using a Enthoo Luxe tempered today and I was planing for a Caselabs MN8 magnum build later this year.
> But I just can't help the looks on caselabs cases and the Enthoo Elite is beautiful compared and it has mega watercooling features buildt in already .
> So im pushing this build ahead in a few weeks i will post URL for build log when the build is abit on the way if anyone wants to peak.
> 
> Just a summary of intended components that will be used in the build
> 
> Asus Rampage V Extreme edition 10
> 
> Intel i7 6850k speedbinned @ 4.6ghz and delidded "silicone lottery"
> 
> Corsair Dominator quadchanel 64gb16x4 3466 CL16 sticks
> 
> Samsung M2 960pro 1TB system drive
> 
> 2 Graphicscards eVGA 1080GTX FTW SLI
> 
> Watercooling components
> 
> EK-FB ASUS R5-E10 Monoblock RGB Edition CPU mosfet northbridge cooling
> EK-FC1080 GTX FTW - Acetal+Nickel Full covers EK-FC1080 GTX Backplate - Red 2 of each
> EK-XTOP Revo Dual D5 PWM Serial 2x pumps
> MONSOON MMRS Fully customized reservoirs 300ml 2 colors red/matte black
> MONSOON Free center hardline hardtube 16/12mm red/matte black
> 4 HWLabs black ice nemesis GTR 480 radiators push-pull setup
> 
> The builds colours will try to match the motherboard colours red black so wish me luck this is my dream build I've been dreaming of.


Can I be the first that pressures you into doing 2x Titan X Pascal?


----------



## Splash74

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pez*
> 
> Can I be the first that pressures you into doing 2x Titan X Pascal?


Lol no m8 I'm going 1080ti just as soon eVGA 1080ti FTW is out last 1080gtx I got last week from eVGA has a good option they will take back 1080 GTX when the 1080ti or a 90 day exchange option so hence I got 1 1080ti done .
Titans feels overpriced compared to the 1080ti if the ti cards where available your persuasive comment would have worked haha indeed?


----------



## pez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Splash74*
> 
> Lol no m8 I'm going 1080ti just as soon eVGA 1080ti FTW is out last 1080gtx I got last week from eVGA has a good option they will take back 1080 GTX when the 1080ti or a 90 day exchange option so hence I got 1 1080ti done .
> Titans feels overpriced compared to the 1080ti if the ti cards where available your persuasive comment would have worked haha indeed?


It's the only reason I still haven't sold my Titan and at the same time bit the bullet on a EVGA 1080. The ICX program is even enticing to get that extra bit of step-up time, too. However, I'm still so skeptical about the Ti since nothing has really been confirmed. I'd drop the Titan in a heartbeat for a quiet, ~5-10% less performing card.


----------



## TheAbyss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *owcraftsman*
> 
> 1) I've considered the same mod but decided against it but in the planning stage my best solution was to use a plexi or acrylic panel for divider/support in lieu of cutting an original part. It wouldn't take much if you are handy. I would contact Phanteks directly to see if the part is available. They are typically quite responsive. I used a Monsta 360 problem solved.
> 
> 2) problem is having holes line up for mounting but with divider removed it will fit.
> 
> 3) On page 1 (OP) in the FAQ drop down for the Primo lies the answer to your question regarding the led strip. Plenty of other good info there too so take your time.
> *Can I change the LEDs from blue to a different color?*
> 
> - Yes you can. The LED strip used by Phanteks is 5.5mm wide. Guide here:
> http://themodzoo.com/forum/index.php?/topic/883-enthoo-primo-front-led-color-change/
> 
> edit: BTW mnpctech has a full side acrylic panel which is quite nice. It's down $10 bucks from original price too.
> https://mnpctech.com/phanteks-case-mods/phanteks-enthoo-primo-clear-window-replacement-side-panel.html


1: I have modded the Luxe side Panel to have a small window for my reservoir and ordered original spare parts for the same reason you want them. No issue with Phanteks, took 2 days of writing some emails and showing them on the Manual which parts i meant (sidepannel and 5,25 Panel). Came 4 days later direcly from the Netherlands.

I cannot comment on the rest.


----------



## rfarmer

https://www.newegg.com/Special/ShellShocker.aspx?cm_sp=Homepage_SS-_-P1_11-854-022-_-02142017&Index=1

Newegg has the Evolv ATX Anthracite Gray on sale for $139, $119 after rebate.


----------



## paskowitz

Wow... that is a really good deal. Inventory clearing for a new model?


----------



## hurricane28

Hi

I recently bought the Phanteks enthoo Luxe tempered glass and i am very happy with it.

Here are some pictures:


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!













Unfortunately my case was damaged and the top dust filter is crooked, tempered glass has scratches and the fan hub doesn't work correctly.
Luckily my retail store is awesome and they are going to contact Phanteks and ask them for new parts. If they do not comply within this week i will get a new case from them! Strange thing is that i live in the Netherlands and i tried to contact them but there is now way i can call them in order to inform them about my case, isn't it a Dutch company..?

As for the rest, i am very very happy with the aesthetics of this case an dis by far the most sexy case i ever saw. Building in it is a breeze and very easy as you can truly make it your own.


----------



## MrAgapiGC

That is nice. I want to get that RAD. No cleaning right? is the cleanest of all that is correct?


----------



## FXformat

The evolv ATX looks great but air flow is limited, i'm boring out 3x 5" holes today on the top cover, to vent out the rad, and will be adding another 240mm to the front of the case, totally overkill for my use but i want to run cleaner tubes. The tubing going from the GPU to the CPU doesn't look too good right now, if i get another rad i can separate the two.


----------



## michael-ocn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FXformat*
> 
> The evolv ATX looks great but air flow is limited, i'm boring out 3x 5" holes today on the top cover, to vent out the rad, and will be adding another 240mm to the front of the case, totally overkill for my use but i want to run cleaner tubes. The tubing going from the GPU to the CPU doesn't look too good right now, if i get another rad i can separate the two.


i have the front and side panels off right now for the duration of the Forum Folding War, mucho airflow grande that way


----------



## LiamG6

my solution to my airflow issues in the Evolv ATX TG is almost complete





I messed up the paint a little bit, but it looks like it's meant to be there.

Having an 85mm thick 420 monsta rad external to the case with 2k rpm 140mm EK Vardar fans does wonders for my coolant temps, case is cool and quiet now until under heavy load when all the fans ramp up but they never get to 100% rpm anymore even after hours of gaming so it still remains at reasonable sound levels.

Adding more vents to the front and top panel would help even more but it isn't necessary now so I'll keep the case intact and looking good. The case is now about the same height as a Primo so it's not too crazy.


----------



## Omie

Does anyone have an Enthoo Luxe case that can they check this problem for me?

It seems that my top dust filter doesn't seem to go all the way across where it's supposed to go. What's weird is that when I unclick the top filter to take out the filter, I can push it all the way across to get that complete fit but as soon as I click down on the dust filter to lock it in place again, it sort of pushes itself back a bit.

It ends up looking like the attached picture. You can even see parts of the clips that are located at the end of the case where the dust filter latches on to if you position yourself at a certain angle in a dimly-lit room. When it's locked in, the top dust filter also feels loose and wobbles a bit when I move it up/down and side to side.

Does anyone else notice the same thing with their case?


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Omie*
> 
> Does anyone have an Enthoo Luxe case that can they check this problem for me?
> 
> It seems that my top dust filter doesn't seem to go all the way across where it's supposed to go. What's weird is that when I unclick the top filter to take out the filter, I can push it all the way across to get that complete fit but as soon as I click down on the dust filter to lock it in place again, it sort of pushes itself back a bit.
> 
> It ends up looking like the attached picture. You can even see parts of the clips that are located at the end of the case where the dust filter latches on to if you position yourself at a certain angle in a dimly-lit room. When it's locked in, the top dust filter also feels loose and wobbles a bit when I move it up/down and side to side.
> 
> Does anyone else notice the same thing with their case?


IF you read my previous post you could read that i have similar problems and that i get an replacement part soon.


----------



## Omie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> IF you read my previous post you could read that i have similar problems and that i get an replacement part soon.


Oh ok. Does your top dust filter look like my picture too?

Also, do you know how I can go about contacting them for a replacement top dust filter?


----------



## jeztur2003

I really need some help with air flow on this case p400 tempered glass I included a pic so you can see my current config with every fan full blast including gpu fans my top card hits 89 degrees after a few minutes of heaven and shuts down. Removing glass helped a bunch and removing front panel helps also as my rad fans are set to push through rad the 2 fans on top exhaust and the rear is exhaust psu is intake under shroud cause if i put it as exhaust it was getting to hot. I've tried flipping whole config to have all fans intake with rad fans pushing through front but the front panel is to restrictive and it ends up trapping heat in the case. I really wish i could mount the radiator up top but as everyone know you can't in these cases. This is an old picture when i tried the other fans as intake they are now exhaust the top 2 and the rear.


----------



## nycgtr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jeztur2003*
> 
> I really need some help with air flow on this case p400 tempered glass I included a pic so you can see my current config with every fan full blast including gpu fans my top card hits 89 degrees after a few minutes of heaven and shuts down. Removing glass helped a bunch and removing front panel helps also as my rad fans are set to push through rad the 2 fans on top exhaust and the rear is exhaust psu is intake under shroud cause if i put it as exhaust it was getting to hot. I've tried flipping whole config to have all fans intake with rad fans pushing through front but the front panel is to restrictive and it ends up trapping heat in the case. I really wish i could mount the radiator up top but as everyone know you can't in these cases. This is an old picture when i tried the other fans as intake they are now exhaust the top 2 and the rear.


Not sure how to help you tbh. That's is just not the right case for that kinda hardware.


----------



## owcraftsman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jeztur2003*
> 
> I really need some help with air flow on this case p400 tempered glass I included a pic so you can see my current config with every fan full blast including gpu fans my top card hits 89 degrees after a few minutes of heaven and shuts down. Removing glass helped a bunch and removing front panel helps also as my rad fans are set to push through rad the 2 fans on top exhaust and the rear is exhaust psu is intake under shroud cause if i put it as exhaust it was getting to hot. I've tried flipping whole config to have all fans intake with rad fans pushing through front but the front panel is to restrictive and it ends up trapping heat in the case. I really wish i could mount the radiator up top but as everyone know you can't in these cases. This is an old picture when i tried the other fans as intake they are now exhaust the top 2 and the rear.


Your biggest problem are your GPUs if you could swap them out for blower style coolers you'd be much better off. Then I would switch to a 120mm AIO mounted to the rear panel. Set top to exhaust and place 3 high CFM/Static Pressure front fans as intake. You could consider modding the bottom front of the case with a 120mm fan in the floor even if that means loosing one of the front fans you'd have better flow rate with less impedance. You'll have to use a Demcfilter or similar. If you are overclocking CPU or GPUs or both back things off a bit. If you must have a 240 AIO consider putting it in the top by mounting fans on the exterior of the case push/Intake and swap GPUs to blower style this way too and keep the front as intake. Also consider removing the expansion slot covers to help increase the flow out of the case. No doubt it's not a very well thought out case and I wish I had never bought one. GL


----------



## nycgtr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *owcraftsman*
> 
> Your biggest problem are your GPUs if you could swap them out for blower style coolers you'd be much better off. Then I would switch to a 120mm AIO mounted to the rear panel. Set top to exhaust and place 3 high CFM/Static Pressure front fans as intake. You could consider modding the bottom front of the case with a 120mm fan in the floor even if that means loosing one of the front fans you'd have better flow rate with less impedance. You'll have to use a Demcfilter or similar. If you are overclocking CPU or GPUs or both back things off a bit. If you must have a 240 AIO consider putting it in the top by mounting fans on the exterior of the case push/Intake and swap GPUs to blower style this way too and keep the front as intake. Also consider removing the expansion slot covers to help increase the flow out of the case. No doubt it's not a very well thought out case and I wish I had never bought one. GL


That's way too much hassle. This is what a 90 dollar case? Take the loss and buy a new case thats geared for airflow. Sell this one or re purpose for something else. I've ran case dumpers like that in tri sli and dual sli (usually when waiting for blocks to come) you really need to optimize air flow and poor air flow cases are just going to mean excessive heat that YOU CANNOT FIX.


----------



## junneh

Hi guys,

I recently sold my h440 and got a new corsair case. I will be selling the corsairs case (460x) as it is way to noisey for me. I already use quiet components and noise levels are still too high for me.

Having had 2x nzxt and 2x corsair before Ive decided id like to try a phanteks case.

Im currently looking at Evolv TG and P400S TG (bit of a price difference, I know)

Im running a 7600k and will put a mild oc in the future, I have an h110i (gt version) for cooling. My gpu is MSI rx480 Gaming. (no plans voor dual GPU.)

Im aware both cases run abit hot, my h440 did the same and Im fine with it, I value idle silence more. Some noise is no problem when under load.

I have no plans for custom WC loops as of now.

Simple question really: Which of these 2 will be the more silent one? P400? (does it really run that hot as some internet stuff says btw?)


----------



## nycgtr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *junneh*
> 
> Hi guys,
> 
> I recently sold my h440 and got a new corsair case. I will be selling the corsairs case (460x) as it is way to noisey for me. I already use quiet components and noise levels are still too high for me.
> 
> Having had 2x nzxt and 2x corsair before Ive decided id like to try a phanteks case.
> 
> Im currently looking at Evolv TG and P400S TG (bit of a price difference, I know)
> 
> Im running a 7600k and will put a mild oc in the future, I have an h110i (gt version) for cooling.
> 
> Im aware both cases run abit hot, my h440 did the same and Im fine with it, I value idle silence more. Some noise is no problem when under load.
> 
> I have no plans for custom WC loops as of now.
> 
> Simple question really: Which of these 2 will be the more silent one? P400? (does it really run that hot as some internet stuff says btw?)


If your referring to fan noise, Sorry buddy your 2 choices aren't going to be any better than what you got rid of for air flow. In fact it might be even worse. If you value silence you should looking at a case that is less restrictive. For example the enthoo Pro M which is the same interior as the evolv but much better for airflow.


----------



## junneh

I understand your logic, however, I have a more open case now, and its just to noisey for me. I have very sensitive ears. My fans i have turning silent, its mostly the h110i pump (its really not that noisey but the open roof on this lets everything thru) and the bad hdd bracket on this case

The load on the system will most likely be gaming, I have headphones on then, so if the fans need to spin up higher to cool cause the flow is bad, this is no problem.

Id just like silence, when surfing the web etc... if the proc gets/idles some more degrees on temp, during these tasks, this really does not matter to me, the silence a more closed case gives however does matter.


----------



## nycgtr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *junneh*
> 
> I understand your logic, however, I have a more open case now, and its just to noisey for me. I have very sensitive ears. My fans i have turning silent, its mostly the h110i pump (its really not that noisey but the open roof on this lets everything thru) and the bad hdd bracket on this case
> 
> The load on the system will most likely be gaming, I have headphones on then, so if the fans need to spin up higher to cool cause the flow is bad, this is no problem.
> 
> Id just like silence, when surfing the web etc... I will put the fan RPM down manually, if the proc gets/idles some more degrees on temp, during these tasks, this really does not matter to me, the silence a more closed case gives however does matter.


Have you considered something from bequiet?


----------



## junneh

I have but am not really attracted to any of their cases. Also most reviews say the airflow is really bad in these aswell.

The same holds true for Fractal Design, I think the r5 is still the best silent case on the market. (while maintaining decent temps)

Im looking for the best tradeoff to visually appealing/silent to me here









Glass panel is a must, closed roof and front is a must.

Simple logic leads me to believe that between p400s and evolv, the p400s will be the more silent one (padding, naming, etc.) Correct?


----------



## jeztur2003

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nycgtr*
> 
> That's way too much hassle. This is what a 90 dollar case? Take the loss and buy a new case thats geared for airflow. Sell this one or re purpose for something else. I've ran case dumpers like that in tri sli and dual sli (usually when waiting for blocks to come) you really need to optimize air flow and poor air flow cases are just going to mean excessive heat that YOU CANNOT FIX.


I appreciate the feedback I was actually able to mount the radiator on the front of the case with the fans inside blowing air through radiator and dumping it out the top and bottom I couldn't believe the radiator fit and still able to put front panel on this has had positive and negative effects. Positive is it's getting rid of heat in the case cards won't go over 80 degrees now while benching also vrms and ambient have dropped. Downside is water is to warm to have a decent overclock now and had to back it down from a 4.6 to 4.3 and processor temp is still getting 50 degreespecially. You're absolutely right about the case. I wasn't planning on crossfire when I bought it but here I am and in serious need of a better air flow case or water cooling the top card.


----------



## jeztur2003

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *owcraftsman*
> 
> Your biggest problem are your GPUs if you could swap them out for blower style coolers you'd be much better off. Then I would switch to a 120mm AIO mounted to the rear panel. Set top to exhaust and place 3 high CFM/Static Pressure front fans as intake. You could consider modding the bottom front of the case with a 120mm fan in the floor even if that means loosing one of the front fans you'd have better flow rate with less impedance. You'll have to use a Demcfilter or similar. If you are overclocking CPU or GPUs or both back things off a bit. If you must have a 240 AIO consider putting it in the top by mounting fans on the exterior of the case push/Intake and swap GPUs to blower style this way too and keep the front as intake. Also consider removing the expansion slot covers to help increase the flow out of the case. No doubt it's not a very well thought out case and I wish I had never bought one. GL


Yep sounds like time to start case shopping I really don't want to water cool the cards and I think if I can buy a case with much better air flow it will be cheaper than water cooling them.


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *junneh*
> 
> I have but am not really attracted to any of their cases. Also most reviews say the airflow is really bad in these aswell.
> 
> The same holds true for Fractal Design, I think the r5 is still the best silent case on the market. (while maintaining decent temps)
> 
> Im looking for the best tradeoff to visually appealing/silent to me here
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Glass panel is a must, closed roof and front is a must.
> 
> Simple logic leads me to believe that between p400s and evolv, the p400s will be the more silent one (padding, naming, etc.) Correct?


Coming from a Define R4, I find the Evolv to be quite quiet. There is no such thing as a silent case with optimal thermals/airflow. Most noise issues are a crappy fan, crappy pump, crappy fan layout and then the restriction level of the case. I do not think there would be a substantial difference between the P400s and the Evolv.


----------



## mattyfinch

Just finished the rework of my system and figured i would throw a couple pictures up. This is my second hard tube build, my previous build was an Mitx hard tube build in the Manta case.

Specs:

Phanteks Enthoo Evolv ATX TG
Gigabyte Ultra-Gaming Z270 motherboard
i5 6600k @ 4.8 (1.335 vcore)
Asus Strix OC 1070 ( +45 core +1375 memory )
Corsair Vengeance LPX 3200Mhz DDR4 (16GB)
Evga G2 750 Watt modular PSU
Intel m.2 256GB HD
Windows 10 64Bit

Add ons:

NZXT hue+
NZXT Grid+
Corsair HD 120 RGB fans (3)
Corsair SP120 HP PWM fans (3)
Cablemods Black/Yellow full G2 cable kit.
Some interior paint work.
Wrapped exterior in carbon fiber vinyl (top and front)

Watercooling specs:

EKWB Supremacy Evo (nickle) CPU WB
EKWB Strix1080 GPU WB
EKWB Strix1080 GPU Backplate
EKWB 360 PE 360mm Radiator (front)
EKWB 120 PE 120mm Radiator (rear)
Bitspower 16mm "Black Sparkle" fittings
Darkside 220 Res w/ D5 strong pump
Mayhem Yellow coolant ( mixed with a few ml's of Mayhem red to make it a deeper yellow )

System runs flawlessly and remains very cool. 18HR on p95 max heat the cpu never passed 60*C. GPU levels off at 41*C on Valley 1920x1080 ultra 8aa.

Pics:


----------



## mickr777

Finished my parts transfer to the new case, nothing fancy


added a fan to the video cards, now top card is down from 79c to 67c under load


----------



## owcraftsman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jeztur2003*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *owcraftsman*
> 
> Your biggest problem are your GPUs if you could swap them out for blower style coolers you'd be much better off. Then I would switch to a 120mm AIO mounted to the rear panel. Set top to exhaust and place 3 high CFM/Static Pressure front fans as intake. You could consider modding the bottom front of the case with a 120mm fan in the floor even if that means loosing one of the front fans you'd have better flow rate with less impedance. You'll have to use a Demcfilter or similar. If you are overclocking CPU or GPUs or both back things off a bit. If you must have a 240 AIO consider putting it in the top by mounting fans on the exterior of the case push/Intake and swap GPUs to blower style this way too and keep the front as intake. Also consider removing the expansion slot covers to help increase the flow out of the case. No doubt it's not a very well thought out case and I wish I had never bought one. GL
> 
> 
> 
> Yep sounds like time to start case shopping I really don't want to water cool the cards and I think if I can buy a case with much better air flow it will be cheaper than water cooling them.
Click to expand...

I agree you'd be better off with a different case but I think you misunderstood my recommendation. A blower style cooler for GPU is Air Cooled not water cooled. Instead of blowing hot air through out the case like the coolers do in the pics you provided they blow completely out the rear of the case. That would change your temps significantly but would never be stellar with that case.


----------



## d0mmie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *owcraftsman*
> 
> I agree you'd be better off with a different case but I think you misunderstood my recommendation. A blower style cooler for GPU is Air Cooled not water cooled. Instead of blowing hot air through out the case like the coolers do in the pics you provided they blow completely out the rear of the case. That would change your temps significantly but would never be stellar with that case.


You're technically correct, but his temps would actually become worse as the Founder's Edition cards tends to get hot. Expect them to hit 83C very easily (GTX 1080), and they WILL throttle a lot due to either the graphics card itself or the driver, never really likes to drive up the RPM above 55-60%. You can manually adjust it with software, but it would make your PC sound like a vacuum cleaner. The best solution is to have the triple fan card in top, and a blower style card at the bottom. This way the bottom card doesn't cause the top one to overheat, but it doesn't exactly look very fancy, and will more than likely make use of SLI bridges impossible unless you use the old ribbon style.

Considering he's not even hitting the temperature limit of 83C on the cards, 79C is fine but 67C is actually pretty damn good. Just find ways to increase airflow. The best option would be to ditch the windowed sidepanel for a closed one, with a fan mount that can blow cold air directly in between the two graphics cards.

Edit: Those are of course GTX 1070, but still my point is clear


----------



## pez

Yeah those MSI coolers are seriously good, so seeing one of them at 89C is pretty alarming lol. It also doesn't help that the AIO is mounted in the front and making things worse.


----------



## jeztur2003

OK we have almost an identical rig and i have been struggling with the temps on the top gpu also i have the af120 quiet edition fans also. Please tell me the orientation of your top,rear,psu and radiator fans and how did you mount the vertical fan on the shroud? I would really appreciate the help. I also seen a pci blower fan that fits in one slot and almost bought it thinking it will fit in between the cards and suck the heat out that's getting trapped between cards and of course would look better than a fan in front of them what do you think?


----------



## jeztur2003

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mickr777*
> 
> Finished my parts transfer to the new case, nothing fancy
> 
> 
> added a fan to the video cards, now top card is down from 79c to 67c under load


OK we have almost an identical rig and i have been struggling with the temps on the top gpu also i have the af120 quiet edition fans also. Please tell me the orientation of your top,rear,psu and radiator fans and how did you mount the vertical fan on the shroud? I would really appreciate the help. I also seen a pci blower fan that fits in one slot and almost bought it thinking it will fit in between the cards and suck the heat out that's getting trapped between cards and of course would look better than a fan in front of them what do you think?


----------



## jeztur2003

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pez*
> 
> Yeah those MSI coolers are seriously good, so seeing one of them at 89C is pretty alarming lol. It also doesn't help that the AIO is mounted in the front and making things worse.


I know it sucks having to be up front but no way I'm going back to the wraith cooler after buying this I've been able to push it to 4.9ghz and under 60°. I'm going to try a fan in front of the gpus like the guy with the 1070s did a and buy a pci slot blower to put in between the cards if that works then I'll do away with the front fan.


----------



## pez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jeztur2003*
> 
> OK we have almost an identical rig and i have been struggling with the temps on the top gpu also i have the af120 quiet edition fans also. Please tell me the orientation of your top,rear,psu and radiator fans and how did you mount the vertical fan on the shroud? I would really appreciate the help. I also seen a pci blower fan that fits in one slot and almost bought it thinking it will fit in between the cards and suck the heat out that's getting trapped between cards and of course would look better than a fan in front of them what do you think?


The AF fans are already not that great at pushing air, let alone through a radiator--let alone the Quiet Edition ones.

I ran 1080 SLI for a while with a Phanteks Pro M. I used all of 3 fans in the build. 2 x PH-F140SP as intake and 1 x PH-F140SP as exhaust. Your top fans may be pulling too much air away from your GPUs, and since you're not running a tower cooler (I was running a D15), you don't really need so much airflow going out of the top. You're really just pulling any 'somewhat' cool air away from your GPUs and even motherboard.

It would be better to buy a fan that pushes better air and then use a fan controller than to settle on something like a quiet edition fan.


----------



## BinaryBummer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mickr777*
> 
> Finished my parts transfer to the new case, nothing fancy
> 
> 
> added a fan to the video cards, now top card is down from 79c to 67c under load


What happen with your temps if you remove the front panel? Do you get better?


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *junneh*
> 
> Hi guys,
> 
> I recently sold my h440 and got a new corsair case. I will be selling the corsairs case (460x) as it is way to noisey for me. I already use quiet components and noise levels are still too high for me.
> 
> Having had 2x nzxt and 2x corsair before Ive decided id like to try a phanteks case.
> 
> Im currently looking at Evolv TG and P400S TG (bit of a price difference, I know)
> 
> Im running a 7600k and will put a mild oc in the future, I have an h110i (gt version) for cooling. My gpu is MSI rx480 Gaming. (no plans voor dual GPU.)
> 
> Im aware both cases run abit hot, my h440 did the same and Im fine with it, I value idle silence more. Some noise is no problem when under load.
> 
> I have no plans for custom WC loops as of now.
> 
> Simple question really: Which of these 2 will be the more silent one? P400? (does it really run that hot as some internet stuff says btw?)


I think something like the Enthoo Luxe will be quieter than P400 or Evolv. I have all three and Luxe is quieter with same components in it. The difference isn't much At load P400 is 35dB, Evolv ATX is 34dB and Luxe is 32dB with room having a 28-30dB baseline ambient noise level. Honestly, if I do not use meter I cannot heat the differnece betwen P400 and Evolv or Evolv and Luxe. At idle none are audible. At full load the P400 is just loud enough for me notice it is working hard. to hear Luxe I have to pay attention and really listen to hear it .. Evolv is a little easier to notice.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jeztur2003*
> 
> OK we have almost an identical rig and i have been struggling with the temps on the top gpu also i have the af120 quiet edition fans also. Please tell me the orientation of your top,rear,psu and radiator fans and how did you mount the vertical fan on the shroud? I would really appreciate the help. I also seen a pci blower fan that fits in one slot and almost bought it thinking it will fit in between the cards and suck the heat out that's getting trapped between cards and of course would look better than a fan in front of them what do you think?


Trying to air cool top GPU in a SLI is almost always a problem .. simply because of the heat coming off of one below it an the limited space between them for cool air to flow into. And having radiator as front intake is only making matters worse by pre-heating the airflow into case.


----------



## jeztur2003

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pez*
> 
> The AF fans are already not that great at pushing air, let alone through a radiator--let alone the Quiet Edition ones.
> 
> I ran 1080 SLI for a while with a Phanteks Pro M. I used all of 3 fans in the build. 2 x PH-F140SP as intake and 1 x PH-F140SP as exhaust. Your top fans may be pulling too much air away from your GPUs, and since you're not running a tower cooler (I was running a D15), you don't really need so much airflow going out of the top. You're really just pulling any 'somewhat' cool air away from your GPUs and even motherboard.
> 
> It would be better to buy a fan that pushes better air and then use a fan controller than to settle on something like a quiet edition fan.


The af120s are on top h110I is stock fans but I see what you're saying about the top fans I'll give it a whirl.


----------



## jeztur2003

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BinaryBummer*
> 
> What happen with your temps if you remove the front panel? Do you get better?


So I added a fan like yours and top card will not go over 80 now that's acceptable I looped heaven 1080p fullscreen 8xaa for over an hour the cpu at 4.4 got to 40 top card 80 bottom 70 hdds 50 vrm 55 I can live with this. Yes pulling off the front panel helps quite a bit but of course I don't want to run it like that. I figure if it can loop heaven over an hour it can handle any game capped at 60fps


----------



## jeztur2003

I just want to say thanks to everyone here in the forum for suggestions and ideas seems like I'm good to go now Yeah top card temp is a bit high but within operating range for a 480 and no thermal throttling. I have some msi torx 120 fans coming Tuesday they spin faster than my corsair af120s at less dB so hoping they'll help some. I'll report back then. Thanks again!


----------



## pez

Yep at this point I'd just focus on better fans. A few here (including myself) highly recommend the Phanteks MP and SPs. Those sound about the normal temps I saw in SLI on my rig as well. Well...outside of the CPU temps







.


----------



## jeztur2003

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pez*
> 
> Yep at this point I'd just focus on better fans. A few here (including myself) highly recommend the Phanteks MP and SPs. Those sound about the normal temps I saw in SLI on my rig as well. Well...outside of the CPU temps
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


I tried lowering top fans and temps shot up quick so I'm gonna order 2 140s for the top that move more air. Dropping from 1400rpm to 700rpm on the top fans made a 5° difference on the top gpu and cpu raised a few degrees also so I think you're right I need better fans that move more air. Thanks for the suggestions on the fans I'll check those out.


----------



## dlewbell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *junneh*
> 
> Hi guys,
> 
> I recently sold my h440 and got a new corsair case. I will be selling the corsairs case (460x) as it is way to noisey for me. I already use quiet components and noise levels are still too high for me.
> 
> Having had 2x nzxt and 2x corsair before Ive decided id like to try a phanteks case.
> 
> Im currently looking at Evolv TG and P400S TG (bit of a price difference, I know)
> 
> Im running a 7600k and will put a mild oc in the future, I have an h110i (gt version) for cooling. My gpu is MSI rx480 Gaming. (no plans voor dual GPU.)
> 
> Im aware both cases run abit hot, my h440 did the same and Im fine with it, I value idle silence more. Some noise is no problem when under load.
> 
> I have no plans for custom WC loops as of now.
> 
> Simple question really: Which of these 2 will be the more silent one? P400? (does it really run that hot as some internet stuff says btw?)


Instead of changing cases, why not swap to a large air cooler (PH-TC14PE, NH-D15S, or similar) & be done with the noisy pump? You'll get the near silence you're after at idle, less noise under full load, & very similar temperatures to the H110i GT, & get to keep the case you already bought (though don't let this stop you from switching to Phanteks for the case anyway). The 460X has 170mm CPU clearance, so you shouldn't have any trouble fitting most of the good coolers, as long as your RAM doesn't have crazy heat spreaders.

If you do decide to switch cases to Phanteks, I'd recommend looking at anything from the Enthoo line over the Eclipse. The P400(S) only has 160mm CPU clearance, only has space for radiators in the front (if you do keep your H110i GT), & usually costs as much as the Enthoo Pro M, which is a much more functional design.


----------



## dlewbell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Omie*
> 
> Does anyone have an Enthoo Luxe case that can they check this problem for me?
> 
> It seems that my top dust filter doesn't seem to go all the way across where it's supposed to go. What's weird is that when I unclick the top filter to take out the filter, I can push it all the way across to get that complete fit but as soon as I click down on the dust filter to lock it in place again, it sort of pushes itself back a bit.
> 
> It ends up looking like the attached picture. You can even see parts of the clips that are located at the end of the case where the dust filter latches on to if you position yourself at a certain angle in a dimly-lit room. When it's locked in, the top dust filter also feels loose and wobbles a bit when I move it up/down and side to side.
> 
> Does anyone else notice the same thing with their case?


Mine is the same. I assumed it was normal manufacturing tolerance. I can shift mine around about 1mm or so each direction, but that's never given me any reason to be concerned.


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Omie*
> 
> Oh ok. Does your top dust filter look like my picture too?
> 
> Also, do you know how I can go about contacting them for a replacement top dust filter?


Sorry for the late reply.

My filter is even worse, its crooked.. The plastic frame is all bend and my tempered glass window is damaged and the fan hub is damaged... this week i hear from my retail store if they will send me new parts or a new entire case.


----------



## jeztur2003

OK after much experimenting and help from multiple users of this forum here is what i came up with and I have been able to loop heaven indefinitely and play star wars battlefront at 4K 60fps cap! Top GPU never goes over 80 degrees CPU FX 8370 slight overclock to 4.4Ghz never gets over 40 degrees VRM on mobo staying around 55 degrees. All fans on GPU and case have to ramp up to 100% to maintain temps at 4K gaming or running heaven loop. 1080p gaming with 60fps cap everything stays nice and cool. Posted some scores for those interested below.


----------



## Choan

Hi guys,

i'm looking for a case that could fit a 360mm rad on top and 240mm 60mm thick at least ,on the bottom. AND have a 5.25" tray.
If possible i would like to have them both in push/pull .
And keep in place the hdd tray and 5.25" !

So we have advice me to look at the enthoo luxe tempered.

Could you guys confirm than it could fit the rad I want with a reservoir + pump, while keeping in place the tray ?

I don't find any pics about this case with a watercooling inside. I would like to know where the rad fit at the bottom since there is a cage to hide the power supply.

And will a rad on top could fit with push/pull config ? even if the rad is 60mm thick ?

I see on phantek website than on the top the fan are in pull setup, could will change that or the fixation setup force us to put the fan against the case ?

Sorry for my english,
thanks for the help


----------



## dlewbell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Choan*
> 
> Hi guys,
> 
> i'm looking for a case that could fit a 360mm rad on top and 240mm 60mm thick at least ,on the bottom. AND have a 5.25" tray.
> If possible i would like to have them both in push/pull .
> And keep in place the hdd tray and 5.25" !
> 
> So we have advice me to look at the enthoo luxe tempered.
> 
> Could you guys confirm than it could fit the rad I want with a reservoir + pump, while keeping in place the tray ?
> 
> I don't find any pics about this case with a watercooling inside. I would like to know where the rad fit at the bottom since there is a cage to hide the power supply.
> 
> And will a rad on top could fit with push/pull config ? even if the rad is 60mm thick ?
> 
> I see on phantek website than on the top the fan are in pull setup, could will change that or the fixation setup force us to put the fan against the case ?
> 
> Sorry for my english,
> thanks for the help


I have an Enthoo Luxe (original), & while I am air cooling, I can take measurements for most of your questions.

The Enthoo Luxe has just over 60mm between the top of the motherboard & the radiator bracket. You likely wouldn't be able to mount fans on the bottom of the rad in the back fan position, but you would probably have space in the middle & front fan positions. Your pull fans would have to be mounted on top of the bracket, but that's not an issue with the Luxe. The Luxe has 3 5.25" drive bays. If you install a fan under the 60mm radiator in the drive bay area, it would likely fit but contact the top of the middle 5.25" drive (86mm +/- from top of drive to rad mount). I would suggest either only using 1 5.25" drive in the bottom bay if planning on push-pull, or doing pull only if you need 2 5.25" drives.

If you want to use a bottom mounted radiator, you need to remove the PSU shroud. It is clipped into place & then held with 3 screws. You have to remove it temporarily to install your PSU anyway. There's more than enough height to keep the upper 3.5" drive cage installed with even a 60mm push-pull radiator installed. I didn't take an exact measurement (didn't feel like removing the back panel), but it looks like there's between 150mm & 160mm from the bottom mount to the upper HDD cage. The bigger concern would be the length of your PSU & radiator. A longer PSU (such as EVGA G2 series) might have clearance issues with a 240mm radiator.

Where you would put a pump & reservoir in such a setup is a more complicated question. It would depend on how big each was, & what else you have installed. I'm sure it could be done if planned properly, but it won't be easy.

I'm not experienced with water cooling, but I have installed industrial hydraulic valve stacks & piping for what that's worth. This is just my thoughts, but I'd suggest going with 45mm radiators instead of 60mm. You wouldn't have to compromise to make push-pull fit, & maybe could do without it anyway (depending on exact radiator & fan speeds). You could even increase the top radiator size from a 360mm to a 420mm. The extra space at the top would guarantee 2 5.25" bays being available, so if your plans only need one, the other could be used for a bay reservoir. You would still need to find space for a pump, but I've seen pumps that mount to radiators using fan mounts. Depending on whether you use 1 or 2 GPUs, how long they are, & how big your pump is, you could make use of either the 120mm fan mount on the HDD cage or a fan mount on the bottom radiator. If a DDC is sufficient for the loop, you could even just use a single bay pump/reservoir combo.

Edit: I have a lot of random pictures of my Luxe from various perspectives in this thread that may help you get a sense of how much space is available. You can view them here: http://www.overclock.net/g/a/1512056/official-case-phanteks-case-club-for-lovers-owners/


----------



## ITAngel

Question, do you guys keep the 200mm fan on the front of the Enthoo Pro case or replace it with two 120mm/140mm fans? Reason I has is because I have 6x Nidec Servo GentleTyphoon 120mm Case Fan 2150 RPM PWM Fan D1225C12B6ZPA-64. That maybe I can drop 2 on the front of the case and replace the 200mm fan.


----------



## dlewbell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ITAngel*
> 
> Question, do you guys keep the 200mm fan on the front of the Enthoo Pro case or replace it with two 120mm/140mm fans? Reason I has is because I have 6x Nidec Servo GentleTyphoon 120mm Case Fan 2150 RPM PWM Fan D1225C12B6ZPA-64. That maybe I can drop 2 on the front of the case and replace the 200mm fan.


I replaced it with a pair of PH-F140SP fans that I run at about 900rpm. You could replace them with 2 120mm fans, but I'm not sure what if any benefit you'd see, as that's a sizeable reduction in area. If you end up testing it, let us know. At least you'd be testing with good fans, so we'd know best case results.


----------



## Balsagna

Can a swiftech h320 x2 fit in the front of the enthoo evolv atx tg? Without modifications?


----------



## boredgunner

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Balsagna*
> 
> Can a swiftech h320 x2 fit in the front of the enthoo evolv atx tg? Without modifications?


It should, since even an EK Predator 360 fits there with no modification and the Predator 360 is even bigger.


----------



## themightyvoice

It should be able to, but fair warning, you probably won't want it to. I've got experience with those and they are utterly plagued with QC issues. You'll be much better off going with either a standard AIO or someone else's open loop quick release options.


----------



## ITAngel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dlewbell*
> 
> I replaced it with a pair of PH-F140SP fans that I run at about 900rpm. You could replace them with 2 120mm fans, but I'm not sure what if any benefit you'd see, as that's a sizeable reduction in area. If you end up testing it, let us know. At least you'd be testing with good fans, so we'd know best case results.


Sure thing, I will be testing to see if it does any difference or not.


----------



## mickr777

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BinaryBummer*
> 
> What happen with your temps if you remove the front panel? Do you get better?


On the video cards no, but having the front off i get 2-5c lower on cpu temps


----------



## mickr777

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jeztur2003*
> 
> OK we have almost an identical rig and i have been struggling with the temps on the top gpu also i have the af120 quiet edition fans also. Please tell me the orientation of your top,rear,psu and radiator fans and how did you mount the vertical fan on the shroud? I would really appreciate the help. I also seen a pci blower fan that fits in one slot and almost bought it thinking it will fit in between the cards and suck the heat out that's getting trapped between cards and of course would look better than a fan in front of them what do you think?


Fan setup 2x Corsair Air Series AF140 Quiet Edition top exhaust 1x Corsair Air Series AF120 Quiet Edition back exhaust 2x Spectre Pro PWM 140mm on front intake for rad and on video cards 1x 120mm antec led fan as i had it spare just cable tired to the pcie power cables.

on my video cards the fans do not tend to go above 70% with custom curve and 67-70c with about 1-2c difference between the 2 cards under 3dmark stress test and I play most of my games at 4k and 60fps capped and about same temps. If i put my had at back of case i can feel air come out the back between the video cards with the fan running.

I do not mind the fan on the cards as its clear and red led, and at full rpm i cant hear it and it does its job well for me


----------



## pez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ITAngel*
> 
> Question, do you guys keep the 200mm fan on the front of the Enthoo Pro case or replace it with two 120mm/140mm fans? Reason I has is because I have 6x Nidec Servo GentleTyphoon 120mm Case Fan 2150 RPM PWM Fan D1225C12B6ZPA-64. That maybe I can drop 2 on the front of the case and replace the 200mm fan.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dlewbell*
> 
> I replaced it with a pair of PH-F140SP fans that I run at about 900rpm. You could replace them with 2 120mm fans, but I'm not sure what if any benefit you'd see, as that's a sizeable reduction in area. If you end up testing it, let us know. At least you'd be testing with good fans, so we'd know best case results.


That 200mm is quiet, but its weak for airflow. Especially as an intake. Your GTs would be much better up there.

Like dlewbell, I too put Phantek SP fans in the front of my old Pro M and the Mrs.' Evolv ITX.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ITAngel*
> 
> Question, do you guys keep the 200mm fan on the front of the Enthoo Pro case or replace it with two 120mm/140mm fans? Reason I has is because I have 6x Nidec Servo GentleTyphoon 120mm Case Fan 2150 RPM PWM Fan D1225C12B6ZPA-64. That maybe I can drop 2 on the front of the case and replace the 200mm fan.


I think the new Luxe have replaced the PH-F200SP with 2x no-name/no-model# 140mm fans that are similar to PH-F140SP and PH-F140MP. Phanteks changed 140mm case fans like 6 months ago but never gave any official notice of the change or what these new fans are.
If your new case has the PH-F140SP in it, I suggest you contact Phanteks customer support and tell them you expected your new case to be like all the other new cases with 2x 140mm front fans and ask if they can send you the fans new cases come with.


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> I think the new Luxe have replaced the PH-F200SP with 2x no-name/no-model# 140mm fans that are similar to PH-F140SP and PH-F140MP. Phanteks changed 140mm case fans like 6 months ago but never gave any official notice of the change or what these new fans are.
> If your new case has the PH-F140SP in it, I suggest you contact Phanteks customer support and tell them you expected your new case to be like all the other new cases with 2x 140mm front fans and ask if they can send you the fans new cases come with.


I have the Enthoo Luxe tempered glass edition and according the box i have 4 x PH-F140MP but the strange thing is is that those fans are rated for 1500 RPM while my case fans only ramp up to 1300 RPM..
When i go to their website they look identical to the MP version but at a slower RPM so they are definitely no MP versions so i have no idea what fans these actually are.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> I have the Enthoo Luxe tempered glass edition and according the box i have 4 x PH-F140MP but the strange thing is is that those fans are rated for 1500 RPM while my case fans only ramp up to 1300 RPM..
> When i go to their website they look identical to the MP version but at a slower RPM so they are definitely no MP versions so i have no idea what fans these actually are.


Are your case fans 4-pin PWM or 3-pin variable voltage?
I'm guessing 3-pin.


----------



## ITAngel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> I think the new Luxe have replaced the PH-F200SP with 2x no-name/no-model# 140mm fans that are similar to PH-F140SP and PH-F140MP. Phanteks changed 140mm case fans like 6 months ago but never gave any official notice of the change or what these new fans are.
> If your new case has the PH-F140SP in it, I suggest you contact Phanteks customer support and tell them you expected your new case to be like all the other new cases with 2x 140mm front fans and ask if they can send you the fans new cases come with.


I got the pro version not the luxe do to less air restrictions on some test I saw that was in a closed environment. It show the pro having about the same as the air 540 air flow and in some cases beating it.


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Are your case fans 4-pin PWM or 3-pin variable voltage?
> I'm guessing 3-pin.


Yes they are the 3-pin variant. This is odd because on the case i can clearly read that they include 4 x PH-F140MP which are obviously not the same fans i have here.. I already contacted my retail store about this and they said they will sort this out.


----------



## ITAngel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pez*
> 
> That 200mm is quiet, but its weak for airflow. Especially as an intake. Your GTs would be much better up there.
> 
> Like dlewbell, I too put Phantek SP fans in the front of my old Pro M and the Mrs.' Evolv ITX.


I guess only way to find out is to run some test in my room and see. Since I plan to keep this tower on the floor due to lack of room on my desk having a studo setup is why i didn't grab a Pro M or Evolv.

As you can see here, a tall tower need to be on the ground lol. I would had love the Luxe but I need the performance of the pro.


----------



## nycgtr

.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> Yes they are the 3-pin variant. This is odd because on the case i can clearly read that they include 4 x PH-F140MP which are obviously not the same fans i have here.. I already contacted my retail store about this and they said they will sort this out.


afaik no phanteks case comes with 4 pin fans. The fans that ship with them now is a hybrid of the mp and sp. You get the blades of the MP but the rpm and such are in line with the sp. This is what I was told by phanteks directly.


----------



## dlewbell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ITAngel*
> 
> I guess only way to find out is to run some test in my room and see. Since I plan to keep this tower on the floor due to lack of room on my desk having a studo setup is why i didn't grab a Pro M or Evolv.
> 
> As you can see here, a tall tower need to be on the ground lol. I would had love the Luxe but I need the performance of the pro.


For what it's worth, the intake panel on the Luxe is very easy to remove. It's just held on with 4 screws. The only downside is that you're left with 4 posts sticking up in the intake area. The performance between the 2 should be identical that way though. I've thought about trying to buy a front panel for a Pro, & swap the grill over to the Luxe, but I'm not 100% sure I could make the swap without damaging anything.

It would also be possible to use some washers & longer screws to space that panel out further to reduce the restriction, but I haven't felt the need to do so.

Edit: Is there actually a desktop visible anywhere in that photo? All I see are laptops.


----------



## ITAngel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dlewbell*
> 
> For what it's worth, the intake panel on the Luxe is very easy to remove. It's just held on with 4 screws. The only downside is that you're left with 4 posts sticking up in the intake area. The performance between the 2 should be identical that way though. I've thought about trying to buy a front panel for a Pro, & swap the grill over to the Luxe, but I'm not 100% sure I could make the swap without damaging anything.
> 
> It would also be possible to use some washers & longer screws to space that panel out further to reduce the restriction, but I haven't felt the need to do so.
> 
> Edit: Is there actually a desktop visible anywhere in that photo? All I see are laptops.


ohhh I didn't know it was held by screws. If I knew that i would had gotten the Luxe and just removed the screws out from it. Now I am debating if I want to return that one and grab the luxe. lol


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> Yes they are the 3-pin variant. This is odd because on the case i can clearly read that they include 4 x PH-F140MP which are obviously not the same fans i have here.. I already contacted my retail store about this and they said they will sort this out.


My guess is they are the same fan motor and housing as PH-F140SP, but with MP style impeller. I'm guessing they will perform very well, but have not tested and do not know of anyone who has tested these 'no-name/no-model' fans. I am trying to get some to do some basic testing on and see how they compare. I don't have a real 'lab quality' testing system, but can put them on a radiator and measure rpm to airflow and noise with both 120mm and 140mm fans. Similar system to what geggeg (Thermalbench uses, but different radiators. Maybe stack radiators to give low resistance and high resistance fpm flow data.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ITAngel*
> 
> ohhh I didn't know it was held by screws. If I knew that i would had gotten the Luxe and just removed the screws out from it. Now I am debating if I want to return that one and grab the luxe. lol


Same case, different front and top. FYI the center of front can be removed on Luxe for better airflow. Nothing wrong with the Pro. I think the Luxe comes with more fans and PWM controlled fan hub.

What @nycgtr
I have 5 Phanteks cases and non came with 4-pin fans .. and according to all case specifications none come with 4-pin PWM fans. They specifications all show PH-F140SP and have been PH-F140SP except newest Eclipse P400 TG which has 120mm no-model fans that are 3-pin as well.


----------



## nycgtr

@doyll Not sure if your agreeing with I am saying or not lol. The response looks like you are but the what confuses me. I am saying phanteks included fans are only 3pin afaik.

As per the fans themselves that ship with current cases. Directly copied response:

_The fan is a hybrid between our SP and MP fans. The RPM and power consumption will follow our SP model fans while the pressure and noise will follow our MP fans.

PhanteksUSA Support_


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nycgtr*
> 
> .
> afaik no phanteks case comes with 4 pin fans. The fans that ship with them now is a hybrid of the mp and sp. You get the blades of the MP but the rpm and such are in line with the sp. This is what I was told by phanteks directly.


Yes you are right about the hybrid thing. But isn't that a bit weird? I mean, on the case an on their site they claim that they come with the MP fans but instead we get hybrid fans..


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nycgtr*
> 
> @doyll Not sure if your agreeing with I am saying or not lol. The response looks like you are but the what confuses me. I am saying phanteks included fans are only 3pin afaik.
> 
> As per the fans themselves that ship with current cases. Directly copied response:
> 
> _The fan is a hybrid between our SP and MP fans. The RPM and power consumption will follow our SP model fans while the pressure and noise will follow our MP fans.
> 
> PhanteksUSA Support_


Yeah, I was agreeing with you.









I just wish they would tell us what they are.


----------



## ITAngel

You guys know if they replace the 200mm fan as well? If so I can take a look at the one I got today from the Pro tower to see if is the new one or not.


----------



## doyll

*Phanteks has just announced their " Glacier"water cooling line-up!*

Glacier CPU Water Block


Glacier Fittings


Glacier G1080 GPU Water Blocks


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ITAngel*
> 
> You guys know if they replace the 200mm fan as well? If so I can take a look at the one I got today from the Pro tower to see if is the new one or not.


My understanding is they replaced the PH-F200SP with 2x of these new no-name/no-model fans.


----------



## ITAngel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> *Phanteks has just announced their " Glacier"water cooling line-up!*
> 
> Glacier CPU Water Block
> 
> 
> Glacier Fittings
> 
> 
> Glacier G1080 GPU Water Blocks


Damn nice! that looks pretty sexy. hehe


----------



## ITAngel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> My understanding is they replaced the PH-F200SP with 2x of these new no-name/no-model fans.


Oh interesting, I am curious to see what I got then.


----------



## doyll

Yeah, I'm excited about these water cooling components. Might have to get back into it.








Here is more about the C350i CPU waterblock


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## ITAngel

man I think those are the best looking CPU Block I have seen so far.


----------



## doyll

Yeah, I'm excited about these water cooling components. Might have to get back into it.









Here is the literature about Glacier C350i CPU waterblock


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## doyll

Here are Glacier fittings


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## doyll

And here is G1080 series waterblock


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> Yes you are right about the hybrid thing. But isn't that a bit weird? I mean, on the case an on their site they claim that they come with the MP fans but instead we get hybrid fans..


Indeed it is a bit 'sloppy' of them. Not exactly what we expect form a company of their reputation.


----------



## nycgtr

Like the fittings and the cpu block but the gpu blocks look like a mash of what's on the market. Any details on availability? Would like to get that cpu block.

No am4 support? I find that hard to believe.


----------



## paskowitz

Wow. I think they nailed the aesthetics. I am still partial to Heatkiller but this will make future decisions difficult.


----------



## doyll

@nycgtr
I think the GPU block has been around for awhile already. The rest are newer.
So far nothing announced for AM4, but I suspect some will be coming along.

@paskowitz
I agree! I'm almost afraid to see a more expanded line of water loop products. I'm already thinking about getting all wet again.


----------



## creasian

Considering this was the thread that got me started on considering Phanteks, I figure best to at the very least give thanks!

So I ordered the Primo, and it came without any damage or broken pieces. The only thing that had come undone was one of the thumbscrews for the side panel, but the threads weren't stripped so no harm no foul. The top latches are in working order, and the front fan grill latches are well. At first i thought the front fan grill was broken, cause it wouldn't lock on, but once i applied more and even pressure both sides snapped in and I was very pleased.

So, now it's onto a few questions for a all of you, if you don't mind.

I'd like the open up the 5.25 bay. I watched the video where they removed the side plate with the phanteks stamp and talked about the rivets to keep going. To remove the rest of the 5.25 bay, would it cause any structural problems? I actually found a new door for the 5.25 bay off Ebay in Germany and am having it shipped to the U.S. so i can cut into it. My plan is to add in some mesh while keeping at least the outer hull of the swing door intact. I figured having another to try this out on would be better than cutting into the door on the primo I have and maybe not having it go well.

Along with a 140mm fan, I'm also thinking of modding a ssd bracket on the inner 5.25 bay wall. Has anyone tried this and did it go well without any major structural issues?

Along with that I'm going by what I've seen doyll do with the casters and lift. Well, at least try to.


----------



## Choan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dlewbell*
> 
> I have an Enthoo Luxe (original), & while I am air cooling, I can take measurements for most of your questions.
> 
> The Enthoo Luxe has just over 60mm between the top of the motherboard & the radiator bracket. You likely wouldn't be able to mount fans on the bottom of the rad in the back fan position, but you would probably have space in the middle & front fan positions. Your pull fans would have to be mounted on top of the bracket, but that's not an issue with the Luxe. The Luxe has 3 5.25" drive bays. If you install a fan under the 60mm radiator in the drive bay area, it would likely fit but contact the top of the middle 5.25" drive (86mm +/- from top of drive to rad mount). I would suggest either only using 1 5.25" drive in the bottom bay if planning on push-pull, or doing pull only if you need 2 5.25" drives.
> 
> If you want to use a bottom mounted radiator, you need to remove the PSU shroud. It is clipped into place & then held with 3 screws. You have to remove it temporarily to install your PSU anyway. There's more than enough height to keep the upper 3.5" drive cage installed with even a 60mm push-pull radiator installed. I didn't take an exact measurement (didn't feel like removing the back panel), but it looks like there's between 150mm & 160mm from the bottom mount to the upper HDD cage. The bigger concern would be the length of your PSU & radiator. A longer PSU (such as EVGA G2 series) might have clearance issues with a 240mm radiator.
> 
> Where you would put a pump & reservoir in such a setup is a more complicated question. It would depend on how big each was, & what else you have installed. I'm sure it could be done if planned properly, but it won't be easy.
> 
> I'm not experienced with water cooling, but I have installed industrial hydraulic valve stacks & piping for what that's worth. This is just my thoughts, but I'd suggest going with 45mm radiators instead of 60mm. You wouldn't have to compromise to make push-pull fit, & maybe could do without it anyway (depending on exact radiator & fan speeds). You could even increase the top radiator size from a 360mm to a 420mm. The extra space at the top would guarantee 2 5.25" bays being available, so if your plans only need one, the other could be used for a bay reservoir. You would still need to find space for a pump, but I've seen pumps that mount to radiators using fan mounts. Depending on whether you use 1 or 2 GPUs, how long they are, & how big your pump is, you could make use of either the 120mm fan mount on the HDD cage or a fan mount on the bottom radiator. If a DDC is sufficient for the loop, you could even just use a single bay pump/reservoir combo.
> 
> Edit: I have a lot of random pictures of my Luxe from various perspectives in this thread that may help you get a sense of how much space is available. You can view them here: http://www.overclock.net/g/a/1512056/official-case-phanteks-case-club-for-lovers-owners/


wow thanks for all this valueable information !!

So maybe if i want to keep room at the bottom for the pump and res just above, could i fit the rad in the front while keeping the hdd tray ?

thanks a lot


----------



## dlewbell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Choan*
> 
> wow thanks for all this valueable information !!
> 
> So maybe if i want to keep room at the bottom for the pump and res just above, could i fit the rad in the front while keeping the hdd tray ?
> 
> thanks a lot


You're not going to be able install a 240mm radiator on the front fan mounts without removing both HDD cages. The original 200mm fan is 30mm thick, & the HDD cages are almost touching the back of it. There's just no clearance for even a slim radiator/fan combo in between. With only the top HDD cage installed in the case, the best you'll be able to do is a single 120mm radiator in the bottom front fan mount position. Also, I didn't mention before, but another potential option for a reservoir is to make use of the tube res mount on the back panel next to the expansion card slots. Whether that option is reasonable will depend on the width of your graphics cards & components mounted to them, but it's something to consider. Still, the biggest question is where the best place to mount a pump is. Because we were continuing the discussion anyway, I took the time to get a few more pictures inside of my case, this time with a ruler included for scale. Some of them may be easier to read than others, but hopefully this will give you a better idea of how much space is actually available to work with.


Spoiler: Enthoo Luxe Scale Pictures
















I was too lazy to remove my PSU shroud, sorry. Also sorry about the weird artifacts in some pictures. I still haven't figured out the best settings for the camera on my S60.


----------



## michael-ocn

@Hothicon The 3 fans that come with the case are pretty good, you'll probably want to hang onto them and use them. About airflow, I sometimes pop the front panel off altogether (like now during the folding war), but more often I leave the panel on but not fully snapped in on the bottom pegs, i prop it open a little.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hothicon*
> 
> My concerns/questions
> 
> _As a trade off for the design of the case and its smooth lines, apparently a lot of peeps are having air balance issues due to restrictive intake and exhaust. Have people be doing any particular mods to the front panel to help increase air intake that doesn't involve cutting the aluminum panel itself or is putting on spacers and longer screws for the mount about the best you can do without serious modding?_
> _I'm used to having 5.25'' bays to use fan controllers all these years, but now I can't anymore with this case. I have'n't been able to determine exactly what I can and can't do with the Phantek PWM hub. What are other people doing to make sure their intake fans are running at higher RPMS vs exhaust fans? My Hero VII only has 3 mobo headers for 4 pins fans and doesn't regulate my 3 pin Gelid Silenz fans that I am going to repurpose http://gelidsolutions.com/thermal-solutions/case-fan-silent-14-2/ I like these fans because the generate low noise and decent air flow at mid RPM range at around 700 RPM_
> _Should I be looking at buying different fans if I have no choice but to get 4 pin PWM models and if so, any recommendations that have white blades? I have a particular color scheme and I want the fans to be white and not black_
> 
> Thanks for any help on this


First, you will notice that almost every airflow complaint about the Evolv ATX comes from liquid coolers using a top mounted radiator (and many times trying to stuff fans where they don't belong). The Evolv has no real airflow issues with air cooling as you intend to so. There is a very simple mod to space the front out of you like, but it is buried somewhere in the thread.

The operation of the hub is simple. It takes a single PWM signal, and runs multiple fans speed controlled by that signal by variable voltage. Given that if you were to hook the fans to this, you would have two intake fans and one exhaust fan running at the same speed. There is the positive pressure you are looking for.

Should you be looking at other fans? No. There is no fan available at any price that will be noticeably or measurably better than the included F140MP at like noise levels, and the majority will be worse. That includes your Gelid Silenz, which would distinctly be a downgrade from what is already there.


----------



## doyll

What ciarlatano said.
I'm using Evolv ATX with air cooling and no problems at all. I played around with spacing my front out 15mm .. with a great big 2c improvement in temps that were fine even before spacing it out.


----------



## fbmowner

Enthoo Evolv ATX. I cant get enough of the hinged side panels! =) Just some quick snaps on the phone, but they get the job done.



After the bigger rad uptop =)


----------



## michael-ocn

I really like the swing out doors on mine too! I wish the tempered glass panels swung open, but i think they bolt on and aren't on hinges.


----------



## jeztur2003

After a week of trying to get my temps down and waiting on my MSI Torx case fans to come in here's what I ended up with top card will not go over 74 degrees now looping heaven infinitely. This is in a Phanteks Eclipse P400 Tempered Glass the heat coming from the RX 480 8G Gaming X's was ridiculous! I had to remove the bottom red plastic flashing from the front panel in order to fit the bottom fan on the outside of the frame. I think this setup looks better than adding a vertical fan directly in front of the cards just my personal opinion.


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jeztur2003*
> 
> After a week of trying to get my temps down and waiting on my MSI Torx case fans to come in here's what I ended up with top card will not go over 74 degrees now looping heaven infinitely.


Any reason why you are using your CLC as intake? Its far from ideal, it both increases your air intake temperature and intake restriction(less air coming in).

It would be better to use it as top exhaust, imo.


----------



## RnRollie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gilles3000*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *jeztur2003*
> 
> After a week of trying to get my temps down and waiting on my MSI Torx case fans to come in here's what I ended up with top card will not go over 74 degrees now looping heaven infinitely.
> 
> 
> 
> Any reason why you are using your CLC as intake? Its far from ideal, it both increases your air intake temperature and intake restriction(less air coming in).
> 
> It would be better to use it as top exhaust, imo.
Click to expand...

Because, when possible, one should provide fresh (extern) air to a radiator for best performance.
If you have enough airflow through the case, it is no issue to have rads on intake


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gilles3000*
> 
> Any reason why you are using your CLC as intake? Its far from ideal, it both increases your air intake temperature and intake restriction(less air coming in).
> 
> It would be better to use it as top exhaust, imo.


Also he is using a P400, which does not support radiator mounting at the top.


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RnRollie*
> 
> Because, when possible, one should provide fresh (extern) air to a radiator for best performance.
> If you have enough airflow through the case, it is no issue to have rads on intake


For the best performance at the cost of performance of other parts. A high density CLC radiator in combination with the filters is going to significantly hamper airflow. Your second point is right and is exactly why his setup isn't ideal(but turns out he doesn't have much of a choice either way).
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rfarmer*
> 
> Also he is using a P400, which does not support radiator mounting at the top.


Good catch, didn't know or forgot that about the P400.


----------



## doyll

Indeed, Eclipse P400 is a little on the narrow side with only 160mm CPU clearance. Just 11mm wider and top venting and mounts positioned to allow for 240 & 280 radiators would really make it a much more versatile case.

To my way of thinking graphcis on air with a 280mm CLC on PSU is backwards logic. 6600K isn't a hot CPU and could easily be cooled on a $30-40 air cooler instead of all the money into H110 and extra fans needed to move enough air to cool GPUs.

But I have air cooling on 4 out of 5 of my rigs anyway. Have Silent Loop 280mm on my HTPC with no GPU so super quiet.


----------



## jeztur2003

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gilles3000*
> 
> For the best performance at the cost of performance of other parts. A high density CLC radiator in combination with the filters is going to significantly hamper airflow. Your second point is right and is exactly why his setup isn't ideal(but turns out he doesn't have much of a choice either way).
> Good catch, didn't know or forgot that about the P400.


Exactly I was completely out of options this was a last resort only other thing i could do is replace some of the 120's with 140's this definitely is not an ideal setup but necessary for anyone wanting to do sli or crossfire in this case since like he mentioned you can not mount the radiator anywhere else in this case. I made the mistake of buying a second card not really thinking about the added temp I originally had no plans of crossfire when I purchased the case and should also add it worked awesome with one card and the water cooler with just two fans. I hope this will help someone else out on the forums. I may look into using my dremel tool and adding some ventilation slots to the front panel but for now temps are amazing.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gilles3000*
> 
> For the best performance at the cost of performance of other parts. A high density CLC radiator in combination with the filters is going to significantly hamper airflow. Your second point is right and is exactly why his setup isn't ideal(but turns out he doesn't have much of a choice either way).
> Good catch, didn't know or forgot that about the P400.


LMAO at the idea of a CLC user thinking holistically.


----------



## jeztur2003

This is a FX 8370 and h110i was just a choice cause I caught it on sale for $78 and dont like the looks of fan coolers.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jeztur2003*
> 
> This is a FX 8370 and h110i was just a choice cause I caught it on sale for $78 and dont like the looks of fan coolers.


You could try running the airflow backwards in the case (back and top intake, front exhaust) In order to retain the PSU cover. The case isn't designed for it, so it may help the GPU temps, or it may not. Worth a try, though.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jeztur2003*
> 
> This is a FX 8370 and h110i was just a choice cause I caught it on sale for $78 and dont like the looks of fan coolers.


So started at reasonable price, then had to add more fans.

Please keep a $30 air cooler around for back-up in case your CLC pump fails. When CLC has a problem it's pump 99% of the time, not fans and if pump packs it in you have no CPU cooling at all. No computer to use and a major expense to replace, even with air cooler that cools as well for aobut the same $78 you spent on |H110 .. and air cooler will be cooling along happily many years after H110 is dead, gone and forgotten.









Important thing is you are now running cool, not sure about the noise levels though.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> So started at reasonable price, then had to add more fans.
> 
> Please keep a $30 air cooler around for back-up in case your CLC pump fails. When CLC has a problem it's pump 99% of the time, not fans and if pump packs it in you have no CPU cooling at all. No computer to use and a major expense to replace, even with air cooler that cools as well for aobut the same $78 you spent on |H110 .. and air cooler will be cooling along happily many years after H110 is dead, gone and forgotten.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Important thing is you are now running cool, not sure about the noise levels though.


Not even going to say how cool an R1 with MSI red covers would have looked in there......









Or an H5 with the cap sprayed MSI red.....


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Not even going to say how cool an R1 with MSI red covers would have looked in there......
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Or an H5 with the cap sprayed MSI red.....


Problem is there isn't enough CPU clearance for R1. H5 wiill fit with it's 160mm height being the same as P400 CPU clearance.

It's so easy to forget CPU and radiator clearances with all the other Phanteks cases having so much more room in them.


----------



## paskowitz

Case width is a seriously underrated/valued measurement.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Problem is there isn't enough CPU clearance for R1. H5 wiill fit with it's 160mm height being the same as P400 CPU clearance.
> 
> It's so easy to forget CPU and radiator clearances with all the other Phanteks cases having so much more room in them.


Yes.....I stand corrected on the R1. And I absolutely did forget that the R400 is a much narrower case. Good catch.

But, it isn't happening anyway, so.........


----------



## Saint Chewy

I am looking at buying the Phanteks Enthoo Pro M with the tempered glass. Here is the link on Amazon that I am look at getting. I love everything about this case but need to ask one thing before I buy it. Are the slits on the front of the case filtered at all? I thought I saw somewhere that they did update this case with filters but the reviews I try looking for are for the acrylic side. If anyone can answer my question I would be super grateful.


----------



## ITAngel

So it looks like they improve on the Phanteks Enthoo Pro, for some odd reason if I was blind before they seem to have added new fans on this case and two more 2.5 drive on the side of the case side from the 2.5 drive area on the back of the motherboard. Maybe I had to much to drink when I first built my first Phanteks Enthoo Pro case a while ago.


----------



## R99photography

Hello,
I would like to upgrade my workstation, currently built with a HAF 932 case and I looked at the Phanteks Enthoo Primo.
I am used to have a case with casters and I want to know if I can install them. Looking at the bottom of the case I cannot understand if there are holes to accommodate a wheel with a platform with four screws.

Thank you.
_Riccardo_

Sent by iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *R99photography*
> 
> Hello,
> I would like to upgrade my workstation, currently built with a HAF 932 case and I looked at the Phanteks Enthoo Primo.
> I am used to have a case with casters and I want to know if I can install them. Looking at the bottom of the case I cannot understand if there are holes to accommodate a wheel with a platform with four screws.
> 
> Thank you.
> _Riccardo_
> 
> Sent by iPad using Tapatalk


There are no caster mounting holes. I have built several caster bases for the Primo case. This link shows the basics
http://www.overclock.net/t/1418637/official-case-phanteks-case-club-for-lovers-owners/14760_20#post_25457818


----------



## jeztur2003

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> So started at reasonable price, then had to add more fans.
> 
> Please keep a $30 air cooler around for back-up in case your CLC pump fails. When CLC has a problem it's pump 99% of the time, not fans and if pump packs it in you have no CPU cooling at all. No computer to use and a major expense to replace, even with air cooler that cools as well for aobut the same $78 you spent on |H110 .. and air cooler will be cooling along happily many years after H110 is dead, gone and forgotten.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Important thing is you are now running cool, not sure about the noise levels though.


Noise levels are actually good and I'm very picky about fan noise and yeah I always got the wraith cooler on back up.


----------



## jeztur2003

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Not even going to say how cool an R1 with MSI red covers would have looked in there......
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Or an H5 with the cap sprayed MSI red.....


I will say the msi cooler did catch my eye the other day lol!


----------



## PetrasSukys

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *R99photography*
> 
> Hello,
> I would like to upgrade my workstation, currently built with a HAF 932 case and I looked at the Phanteks Enthoo Primo.
> I am used to have a case with casters and I want to know if I can install them. Looking at the bottom of the case I cannot understand if there are holes to accommodate a wheel with a platform with four screws.
> 
> Thank you.
> _Riccardo_
> 
> Sent by iPad using Tapatalk


If you have an access to 3D printer, I can send you over my feet models. I have printed them to fit them on the existing Primo base (without removing anything). Feet are ~20mm tall and has a base of 40x40mm. Used six of them. Although, I was not using them for caster wheels, I've stuck teflon furniture pads on them. Slides like hot knife through butter


----------



## creasian

So given that I have 2 front doors for my primo I decided to try a mod out. I'm planning to stick a fan in th2 5.25 bay but if it doesn't help then I can always attach an unmodded door back on. My camera sucks. I mean really sucks. But if anyone has done similar, let me know how it went? The airflow I'm planning is 3 front intake and 2 bottom intake, all 140mm, and will add/subtract outtakes in the upper rear/top until I get the right balance. I'm also wanting to do something with the bottom front intake grill but have yet to decide. Was checking out the custom grills over at mnpctech but they are all out of stock, and I doubt they will ever be back in stock due to how old the case is.



I bought the demciflex kit for the primo since it did so well for me on my haf 932. Since I actually have a few unused screens from my old haf 932 and i need to cut out the old screens underneath the primo and apply new ones I used one of the demciflex screens for the bottom behind the upper intake mesh. Fits perfect.


----------



## dlewbell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Saint Chewy*
> 
> I am looking at buying the Phanteks Enthoo Pro M with the tempered glass. Here is the link on Amazon that I am look at getting. I love everything about this case but need to ask one thing before I buy it. Are the slits on the front of the case filtered at all? I thought I saw somewhere that they did update this case with filters but the reviews I try looking for are for the acrylic side. If anyone can answer my question I would be super grateful.


If you're ready to buy tonight, go with Newegg. It'll save you $10. https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811854042&cm_re=enthoo_pro_m-_-11-854-042-_-Product


----------



## redserv

ExtendedMotherboardTray 1471k .JPG file


PhantekSidepanelMod 1308k .JPG file
 I have been part of the forum for sometime, however i never really had much to say. I was inspired by all the great work here and decided to purchase the Phantek Enthoo Primo White Case to start my new build. Last couple of months i have been thinking what i can do to this case and this is what i came up with. I am going to be needing some advice on this project, hope you can can help. I will list soon what hardware components i have so far.


----------



## pez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Saint Chewy*
> 
> I am looking at buying the Phanteks Enthoo Pro M with the tempered glass. Here is the link on Amazon that I am look at getting. I love everything about this case but need to ask one thing before I buy it. Are the slits on the front of the case filtered at all? I thought I saw somewhere that they did update this case with filters but the reviews I try looking for are for the acrylic side. If anyone can answer my question I would be super grateful.


Yes! They actually started this with the acrylic edition and was a very nice touch! Here's some pics from when I did my build and happened to notice them. Was definitely a pleasant surprise.





Here's the rest of the album if you care to view it -- I eventually went SLI with the G1s, but can't seem to source any photos I took of them. I let this case go way too soon, but thankfully it went to a good friend and I know it's being put to good use.



http://imgur.com/X8Mbm


----------



## Saint Chewy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pez*
> 
> Yes! They actually started this with the acrylic edition and was a very nice touch! Here's some pics from when I did my build and happened to notice them. Was definitely a pleasant surprise.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the rest of the album if you care to view it -- I eventually went SLI with the G1s, but can't seem to source any photos I took of them. I let this case go way too soon, but thankfully it went to a good friend and I know it's being put to good use.
> 
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/X8Mbm


Perfect! Thank you very much for not only confirming it, but also showing it. Looking forward to using this case.


----------



## OneFunGenesis

^ On a side note for this case (of which I have the acrylic version), the acrylic doesn't seal to the case side very well...letting in a good amount of dust. I believe this can be remedied with a little self-adhesive weather stripping...I have not investigated this yet.

Also, if you have the Pro M acrylic you can call Phanteks and get the tempered glass side panel for it from them. It is something like $24 for the panel and then shipping. They are in Cali and I am in NY and its $20 to ship it to me...which kinda sucks lol


----------



## Testing12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneFunGenesis*
> 
> Also, if you have the Pro M acrylic you can call Phanteks and get the tempered glass side panel for it from them. It is something like $24 for the panel and then shipping. They are in Cali and I am in NY and its $20 to ship it to me...which kinda sucks lol


Sorry about the shipping, but $24 USD for the tempered glass side panel is pretty good.
Thanks for the info!


----------



## junneh

Just sold the corsair 460x and pu8lled the trigger on a Evolv TG Black. Can't wait to recieve it


----------



## OneFunGenesis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Testing12*
> 
> Sorry about the shipping, but $24 USD for the tempered glass side panel is pretty good.
> Thanks for the info!


Yea! I was pleasantly surprised by the affordability of the TG panel. I will be purchasing it soon. As soon as I can justify paying as much in shipping as I pay for the part :/


----------



## pez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Saint Chewy*
> 
> Perfect! Thank you very much for not only confirming it, but also showing it. Looking forward to using this case.


Always happy to help







.

The affordability of it is partially the reason I keep reconsidering the case again. Maybe if I find a shelf to put it on like I'd want...


----------



## ITAngel

I finally put the system together, I have been debating if i should remove he PSU cover or leave it for better air flow since I have a fan below?


----------



## OneFunGenesis

Holy cooler Batman!


----------



## ITAngel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneFunGenesis*
> 
> Holy cooler Batman!


lol it has a lot of fans.











As you can see the fan hub on the back is full and that is just the 6x 120mm static fans.


----------



## OneFunGenesis

Almighty that is a lot of air. My server is set up in that way with some 20 fans. Sheesh lol


----------



## redserv

This mod that I did was normal glass and not tempered glass. However I am satisfied with the outcome.


----------



## ITAngel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneFunGenesis*
> 
> Almighty that is a lot of air. My server is set up in that way with some 20 fans. Sheesh lol


dang! that is a lot of fans for sure. lol







but is like crack for servers. hahaha


----------



## OneFunGenesis

Yessir! Hope your temps are good after all that in the build. Processor?


----------



## redserv

ExtendedMotherboardTray 1471k .JPG file


PhantekSidepanelMod 1308k .JPG file
Guys these are the parts that i am using in this build.

Already have

Asus z170s Sabertooth motherboard
64GB corsair vengeance lpx ddr4 2400Mhz
Alphacool 420mm xt45 radiator will be push/pull for the ceiling
EK supremacy evo elite edition CPU block
Intel core I7 6700k CPU
Corsair AX860i PSU

Still need to purchase
Samsung 960pro 512GB
Possibly GTX1080TI
Asus sound card
Alphacool monster 480mm for the floor

I need advice on watercooling stuff, I will like to go petg white tubing probably 14 or 16 OD , what fittings shall I Get? shall I use bitspower or barrow, I will like a tube type reserviour, can I get a 400mm in my case? Check pics of my case. This is just some of the questions I have, feel free to leave advice and suggestions.


----------



## ITAngel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneFunGenesis*
> 
> Yessir! Hope your temps are good after all that in the build. Processor?


Currently an i5-4690k with an AsRock z97 Extreme 3 motherboard. It is not overclocked yet, orginally I got that setup for a Athlon II X4 860K and MSI A88XM Gaming to overclock the living hell of that chip but some how I ended up with a buddy of mine new CPU and mobo that he build a system for but never used it. lol That is werre the i5-4690k came in to the picture. Also am running a XFX RX 480 RS 8GB graphic card.


----------



## R99photography

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> There are no caster mounting holes. I have built several caster bases for the Primo case. This link shows the basics
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1418637/official-case-phanteks-case-club-for-lovers-owners/14760_20#post_25457818


Hello and thanks,
I won't ever understand why manufactures build very large and heavy cabinets without (at least) a casters option.
Unfortunately, i cannot build something similar to your one, so I ask a you: is it a choice drilling holes into the base cabinet to install 4/6 casters? Looking at some pictures it looks like quite tough and uncertaint, but I need a confirm.
I cannot find out any case with all my preferred solution.
Thank you.


----------



## Choan

Thanks a lot for the infos,
I have missed your post earlier !

So I just ordered the case.

It should fit everything I want, I can easyli what i want. thanks


----------



## Balsagna

I'm finally in the new case! It's a pretty solid case, but I do wish I had a little more room on the back panel to better route my cables.
I also don't like that if you mount a 360 rad in the front, you lose every HDD location (unless I'm mistaken)

Overall, on a 5930K at idle, overclocked to about 4ghz, I'm sitting at around 28c, which is good, probably because I also am using the thermal grizzly Krynaut.

What I've done is set the front 3 as intake, the top 3 as exhaust and the back as exhaust, the PSU is also exhausting as well... so while this seems somewhat negative in pressure, it actually balances out because the front intake are pulling in about as much as the exhaust are giving out.

Every fan is PWM controlled on top of that. What I do like about mounting the Swiftech H320X2 in front is that the res/pump is backwards facing the opposite side of the case. I could take those panels out so I could see it on the other end of case, but meh... it has enough going on with it in the back panel with all the gear back there

I did have to mount both my Thermaltake riiing fan controllers and my NZXT Hue+ in the back so it adds a little light to it. But putting the 360 rad in, leaves a huge open gap which makes you see every cable below the shroud unless you stuff them super close to the PSU

Another nit pick thing I don't like is that my NZXT Hue+ strips have no place to be mounted on the top as there isn't enough clearance for them. The bottom and left/right sides are okay, but at the top with the radiator mounting rail, it has no area to mount the strip. I thought about moving it to behind the case just for that one thing, or underneath the PUS shroud

This was a bit of a painful rebuild because somehow my 950 Pro screwed up and I had to reformat it.

I'll post pic, it's pretty clean otherwise. My only issue right now is that somehow... I got the LED lights to shut off and only one of the USB 3.0 headers on the front work, which makes me think it's faulty from the case because not one or the other should be that way


----------



## Tcoppock

Specs
Xeon e3-1245v5
Gigabyte X150m-pro ecc
16gb gskill 2400mhz ddr4
Visiontek RX 480 8gb
Intel P600 NVME Ssd


This is a work in progress


----------



## hurricane28

Hi folks,

I contacted Phanteks and i get a new front io panel, new fan hub and a new tempered glass window








They said they will ship it this week. I am very happy with the solution.

I am also happy with my case, its much better than the Corsair 650D i had before. Its much bigger and the interior is much more usable and more geared towards the enthusiast.
I changed my fan orientation from push to pull in the top of my case which is surprisingly working very well. I always thought that push is better than pull but this is not always the case it seems. I hope this week i can order 2 more Noctue NF-F12 industrial ppc 3K RPM fans so i can run push pull which in this case makes a big difference in silence and performance. Maybe i buy am 360 mm Alphacool Eisbear but i am not sure yet.

I am going to buy an fan controller because the BIOS can't seem to control the fans like i want it to.


----------



## ITAngel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tcoppock*
> 
> Specs
> Xeon e3-1245v5
> Gigabyte X150m-pro ecc
> 16gb gskill 2400mhz ddr4
> Visiontek RX 480 8gb
> Intel P600 NVME Ssd
> 
> 
> This is a work in progress


Looking good keep it up.


----------



## pez

Yeah, Amazon will usually do good by their Prime clientele. I believe my Pro M came from Newegg and I don't remember having any issues. Hopefully you just got a bad one and the next one is good







.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *1ceSt0rm*
> 
> Sigh.... I thought about contacting Phantek but I honestly felt I shouldn't have to wait and pay extra for them to make this right, it's not my fault it's bad out of the box and I'm sure they would have charged me for slow shipping or for return of bad part as other companies have done in past.


You're "sure" they would have charged you? But, they haven't charged anyone else in this thread who simply produced a receipt and photo of the damage..... Sometimes it pays to actually contact customer service instead of just assuming, especially on a product that so many others have been taken care of so well when there were any issues. You could have been building with new glass panels on the way.


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> You're "sure" they would have charged you? But, they haven't charged anyone else in this thread who simply produced a receipt and photo of the damage..... Sometimes it pays to actually contact customer service instead of just assuming, especially on a product that so many others have been taken care of so well when there were any issues. You could have been building with new glass panels on the way.


Agreed.

I first contacted my retail store but later i thought that it is better to contact Phanteks themselves in order to discuss the problem and come with an solution.

I contacted them via Facebook and i also told the woman/man that my front io panel is crooked and they going to replace that also with the new tempered glass panel, fan hub and the top dust filter.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> You're "sure" they would have charged you? But, they haven't charged anyone else in this thread who simply produced a receipt and photo of the damage..... Sometimes it pays to actually contact customer service instead of just assuming, especially on a product that so many others have been taken care of so well when there were any issues. You could have been building with new glass panels on the way.


Make that three of us.


----------



## Balsagna

I ought to contact them for my front usb 3.0 header, only one of them works









Heres pic of current setup


----------



## Saliciouscrumbs

Has anyone gotten a Kraken X62 rad to fit in the front of a Evolv ATX TG? I have a Kraken X62 on its way and I just noticed that there seem to be some conflicting reports on the internet regarding if the rad does fit in the front without doing some mods.


----------



## MrAgapiGC

I check some videos and they fit. If phanteks make changes, that another story. I just send one to put one


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Saliciouscrumbs*
> 
> Has anyone gotten a Kraken X62 rad to fit in the front of a Evolv ATX TG? I have a Kraken X62 on its way and I just noticed that there seem to be some conflicting reports on the internet regarding if the rad does fit in the front without doing some mods.


It fits. I have no idea why anyone would willingly put one there.....but it will fit there.


----------



## Scotty99

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> It fits. I have no idea why anyone would willingly put one there.....but it will fit there.







Kyle found lower CPU temps with a front mounted rad, i was surprised as well.


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> LMAO at the idea of a CLC user thinking holistically.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scotty99*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Kyle found lower CPU temps with a front mounted rad, i was surprised as well.


Kyle...









Of course CPU temps will be lower, but at the cost of reduced airflow and higher temperatures inside the case(causing higher temps for your GPU, VRM's and all other components in your case).

Its easy to just look at CPU temps, but you have to consider how it affects the rest of your components.


----------



## Scotty99

I suggest watching the whole video


----------



## Splash74

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scotty99*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Kyle found lower CPU temps with a front mounted rad, i was surprised as well.


That is true especially when you have thick radiators with high density fins, and with low to medium fanspeed.
And it's even more difference using push-pull setup.

Important to be aware that you need high pressure fans for best results.
I tryied it with 3 different cases and 3 different radiators,
First case was Corsair Obsidian 750D then Phanteks Evolved ATX and my current case Phanteks Enthoo luxe tempered glass.
Tested a EK coolstream XE 360 rad its a thick badboy 64mm and one of the denser rads I'm aware of worked great, HWLabs GTS 480 and a Alphacool XT45 pure copper 420.

My findings is that yes it's really good to mount radiators in the front biggest obstacle is choosing fans for the specific type of rad, some need brutal air pressure some need high airflow .
The best radiators is 240-360-480mm 120mm fans they are more effective usually especially air pressure values.
140mm radiators and fans have good airflow capacity but much worse for air pressure, but very low noiselvl.


----------



## creasian

I wondered if anyone could take a look at this planned fan setup for my Phantek Primo. Until sometime later this year, it shall be air cooled entirely.

Dual Tower CPU Cooler
Single Gigabyte G1 1080GTX, Going SLI next year.

2 arrows per fan.

1x Front 5.25 bay Intake - Noctua NF-A14 iPPC-3000 PWM
2x Front intake - Phanteks PH-F140SP
2x bottom intake - Noctua NF-A14 iPPC-3000 PWM
1 rear exhaust - Phanteks PH-F140SP
2 top exhaust - Phanteks PH-F140SP

I had the Noctua NF-A14's already so no reason not to use them. The f140sp shall all be on the fan hub while the Noctua NF-A14's shall be on the motherboard fan heads, which with the board I'm planning they will all be on true PWM headers. Since the bottom shall need to work harder I figure it was a good place for the Noctua's if I needed to raise their rpm more.

All intakes are behind demciflex filters and I am planning to replace the bottom front mesh and the top mesh with something like modders mesh in time.


----------



## geriatricpollywog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gilles3000*
> 
> Kyle...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Of course CPU temps will be lower, but at the cost of reduced airflow and higher temperatures inside the case(causing higher temps for your GPU, VRM's and all other components in your case).
> 
> Its easy to just look at CPU temps, but you have to consider how it affects the rest of your components.


I have a front mounted radiator and my water temp delta T is 10 during extended Battlefield 1 gaming. Should it improve if I remove the front rad?


----------



## lazyalam

This has prob been posted 100000 times already, but any news on the Enthoo elite?


----------



## lazyalam

Also while im here:
Full build log being posted, albeit slowly


----------



## TeslaHUN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *creasian*
> 
> I wondered if anyone could take a look at this planned fan setup for my Phantek Primo. Until sometime later this year, it shall be air cooled entirely.
> 
> Dual Tower CPU Cooler
> Single Gigabyte G1 1080GTX, Going SLI next year.
> 
> 2 arrows per fan.
> 
> 1x Front 5.25 bay Intake - Noctua NF-A14 iPPC-3000 PWM
> 2x Front intake - Phanteks PH-F140SP
> 2x bottom intake - Noctua NF-A14 iPPC-3000 PWM
> 1 rear exhaust - Phanteks PH-F140SP
> 2 top exhaust - Phanteks PH-F140SP
> 
> I had the Noctua NF-A14's already so no reason not to use them. The f140sp shall all be on the fan hub while the Noctua NF-A14's shall be on the motherboard fan heads, which with the board I'm planning they will all be on true PWM headers. Since the bottom shall need to work harder I figure it was a good place for the Noctua's if I needed to raise their rpm more.
> 
> All intakes are behind demciflex filters and I am planning to replace the bottom front mesh and the top mesh with something like modders mesh in time.


Good , but forget the 5,25 bay intake, the door is closes in front of bay area ,so u cant get air from there.
4*14cm intake is more than enough.
I suggest ,u remove the front plastic cover . I won 5Celsius on VGA and CPU .


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *creasian*
> 
> I wondered if anyone could take a look at this planned fan setup for my Phantek Primo. Until sometime later this year, it shall be air cooled entirely.
> 
> Dual Tower CPU Cooler
> Single Gigabyte G1 1080GTX, Going SLI next year.
> 
> 2 arrows per fan.
> 
> 1x Front 5.25 bay Intake - Noctua NF-A14 iPPC-3000 PWM
> 2x Front intake - Phanteks PH-F140SP
> 2x bottom intake - Noctua NF-A14 iPPC-3000 PWM
> 1 rear exhaust - Phanteks PH-F140SP
> 2 top exhaust - Phanteks PH-F140SP
> 
> I had the Noctua NF-A14's already so no reason not to use them. The f140sp shall all be on the fan hub while the Noctua NF-A14's shall be on the motherboard fan heads, which with the board I'm planning they will all be on true PWM headers. Since the bottom shall need to work harder I figure it was a good place for the Noctua's if I needed to raise their rpm more.
> 
> All intakes are behind demciflex filters and I am planning to replace the bottom front mesh and the top mesh with something like modders mesh in time.


You are designing an airblow, not and airflow case.








2x front and 1x bottom middle intakes are plenty of airflow, even with no exhaust fans.
Front top fan is only steeling the airflow from front to CPU cooler. Dont' use a fan there. Move it forward and use it as an intake instead of the .5.25 bay intake. Rear bottom intake is at the least a waste and very probably lowering total front to back airflow.


----------



## junneh

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> You are designing an airblow, not and airflow case.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 2x front and 1x bottom middle intakes are plenty of airflow, even with no exhaust fans.
> Front top fan is only steeling the airflow from front to CPU cooler. Dont' use a fan there. Move it forward and use it as an intake instead of the .5.25 bay intake. Rear bottom intake is at the least a waste and very probably lowering total front to back airflow.


If air cooling the CPU putting the top 2 fans as intake might yield better results. Some tests on gamersnexus with a Carbide 400c showed about a 3 degree improvement running the top 2 fans as intake aswell, when coolking the cpu with a heatsink/tower cooler

Also, Move my build into Enthoo Evolv today. really love the case. Left to do is paint my gpu shroud all black and install some leds.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *junneh*
> 
> If air cooling the CPU putting the top 2 fans as intake might yield better results. Some tests on gamersnexus with a Carbide 400c showed about a 3 degree improvement running the top 2 fans as intake aswell, when coolking the cpu with a heatsink/tower cooler


You can blow air everywhere if you want, but what I suggested will most likey flow coolest air to CPU and GPUcoolers. If you want to experiment wiht what works best I suggest reading 5th post in 'Ways to Better Cooling' linked in my sig. 1st post is index, click on topics to see them. Maybe after reading how airflow works in cases you will better understand way I suggested what I did. By all means experiment. Make up a remote sensor thermometer similar to the one shown in 1st and 5th posts and monitor cooler intake air temperature and adjust fan positions and speeds to get the coolest combination.


----------



## boredgunner

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *junneh*
> 
> Also, Move my build into Enthoo Evolv today. really love the case. Left to do is paint my gpu shroud all black and install some leds.


Looking good so far. Wise choice to install the radiator on the front. I should move my EK Predator 240 to the front some day.


----------



## Saint Chewy

I bought the Enthoo Pro M and it is almost here but I have a quick question about the radiator support. I see both the top and the front support 280mm radiators. I have the Corsair h115i and are wondering where the best place to position it? Am I going to have remove anything for it to fit? Or does someone have any pictures to show it? I have tried google but there are not a whole lot of results for the Enthoo Pro *M*. It always seems to pull up just the Enthoo Pro.


----------



## dainfamous

You put it at the top as exhaust and cover any unused holes on the bracket to prevent the air exhausting from the clc going back into the main compartment mixing with cooler air.


----------



## Saint Chewy

Do I need to remove the ODD cage?


----------



## d3vilMod

Hi guys!!!! I want to show you my mod.
If you want you can follow my mod here Project DesertStorm









Based on an Phanteks Enthoo Primo.

Specs:

CPU:
5960x

MOBO:
Asus x99 Sabertooth

RAM:
8x4gb HyperX Predator 3000 (or other type)

VGA:
Evga 980 Ti Classified

RADIATORS:
TOP: Alphacool Nexxxos UT60 480mm
BOTTOM: Alphacool Monsta 480mm

FAN:
RADIATOR: 8 CoolerMaster MasterFan 120 Air Pressure
CASE: 3 CoolerMaster MasterFan 140 Air Pressure

WATERBLOCK:
EK Supremacy x99

FITTINGS:
EKWB

PUMP:
dual Laing DDC 3.25 + Swiftech Dual Top + Heatsink

the project is work in progress but here is a preview


----------



## lazyalam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *1ceSt0rm*
> 
> This utterly blows hard. Got my second replacement case and STILL have issues! Front intake panel has a dent like paint flaw, one of the windows wasn't protected by the plastic in the box and has scratches on the edge
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Emailed Phantek directly with info and pics but I'm not gonna hold my breath. If that doesn't pan out, I'm gonna take it as a sign this wasn't meant to be, send it right back for full refund with Amazon and just keep using my Corsair Obsidian for another few years


Yeah Amazon has a habit of repackaging old hardware in my experience (at least with GPU's). I have gotten 2 used gpu's (a 780ti, and 980 ti) out of the 4 i have ordered through them. They may do the same with cases, but I'm unsure on that.


----------



## Splash74

Well my suggestion is push-pull at the frontintake and and ML pro 140mm fans they are good for the 115i since it pretty dense fin count in it.

There should never be empty fan slots in case period slap high airflow fans uptop and it will be awesome


----------



## arcadeforest

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Saint Chewy*
> 
> I bought the Enthoo Pro M and it is almost here but I have a quick question about the radiator support. I see both the top and the front support 280mm radiators. I have the Corsair h115i and are wondering where the best place to position it? Am I going to have remove anything for it to fit? Or does someone have any pictures to show it? I have tried google but there are not a whole lot of results for the Enthoo Pro *M*. It always seems to pull up just the Enthoo Pro.


Definitely let us know what you think of the case when you get it - its on my short list. As you mentioned in a previous post most reviews cover the acrylic or windowed version. Even the manual download on the Phanteks site is the older model. I believe nothing has really changed from the last revision (which explains lack of new info) but would still like to see / hear thoughts on it with the glass.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *1ceSt0rm*
> 
> This utterly blows hard. Got my second replacement case and STILL have issues! Front intake panel has a dent like paint flaw, one of the windows wasn't protected by the plastic in the box and has scratches on the edge
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Emailed Phantek directly with info and pics but I'm not gonna hold my breath. If that doesn't pan out, I'm gonna take it as a sign this wasn't meant to be, send it right back for full refund with Amazon and just keep using my Corsair Obsidian for another few years


I honestly don't know what is going on, but as others have said, Amazon is know to send out opened products as being new. Did the boxes you received look like they may have been opened and resealed? I can say that those of us you have had both Corsair and Phanteks cases all find the Phanteks to be night to day better quality.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *1ceSt0rm*
> 
> Nope, both shipping and internal boxes had a factory fresh, single application of tape of them, no signs of re taping at all.


Well, if they are of similar quality to the 6 Phanteks cases I've opened up and used in the last couple of years with last one being new P400 TG last month, you are really going to be upset when you open a Corsair box.


----------



## dlewbell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *1ceSt0rm*
> 
> This utterly blows hard. Got my second replacement case and STILL have issues! Front intake panel has a dent like paint flaw, one of the windows wasn't protected by the plastic in the box and has scratches on the edge
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Emailed Phantek directly with info and pics but I'm not gonna hold my breath. If that doesn't pan out, I'm gonna take it as a sign this wasn't meant to be, send it right back for full refund with Amazon and just keep using my Corsair Obsidian for another few years


I'm sorry to hear about your trouble. I'm certain Phanteks will take care of you. I bought an Enthoo Luxe on Newegg just under a year ago. When I received it, it had some very minor scuff marks on the PSU shroud. I called them about it, & the requested pictures of the damage, proof of purchase, & the serial number. After receiving the pictures, they sent me a replacement PSU shroud. So far, pretty much everyone else on this thread that has dealt with their customer support has had good results as well. Both parts you have issues with are easily removed components. They will probably just send you replacements for both, & you should be able to use your system in the case while you wait. Just give them the chance to make it right.


----------



## Dorito Bandit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *1ceSt0rm*
> 
> This utterly blows hard. Got my second replacement case and STILL have issues! Front intake panel has a dent like paint flaw, one of the windows wasn't protected by the plastic in the box and has scratches on the edge
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Emailed Phantek directly with info and pics but I'm not gonna hold my breath. If that doesn't pan out, I'm gonna take it as a sign this wasn't meant to be, send it right back for full refund with Amazon and just keep using my Corsair Obsidian for another few years


Was the case sold and shipped by Amazon, or a different seller? If it was a different seller, let us know who it was so we can avoid buying from them.

Best of luck getting a perfect case.


----------



## Dorito Bandit

*Evolv ATX Galaxy Silver (Windowed Version)Questions*

I have been wanting this case for awhile, now. I have the Enthoo Pro, but would like something a little smaller for when traveling. I very well may end up keeping my Enthoo Pro, but I have a few questions for those of you who own this particular case, but any Evolv owner can answer as well.









1. Is the Silver finish easily scratched?

2. Do you find yourself getting zapped from static electricity a lot more due to the case being all aluminum?

3. Since I would be air cooling my build, does the case provide decent air cooling?

5. When the front fans are spinning at their max, do the small openings in the front of the case create any noise, as the air is being sucked in through them?

6. If you're air cooling this case, what is your fan set up?

7. Are the stock fans any good?

8. Do the dust filters do a good job keeping out the dust?

Your thoughts about the case?. And of course, if you have any pics of the silver version, post them up so I can drool over them.









Thanks in advance, everyone!









Oh, and get some sleep, doyll!


----------



## redserv

Guys can someone help me with some advice please, i would really appreciate it


----------



## geriatricpollywog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dorito Bandit*
> 
> *Evolv ATX Galaxy Silver (Windowed Version)Questions*
> 
> I have been wanting this case for awhile, now. I have the Enthoo Pro, but would like something a little smaller for when traveling. I very well may end up keeping my Enthoo Pro, but I have a few questions for those of you who own this particular case, but any Evolv owner can answer as well.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 1. Is the Silver finish easily scratched?
> 
> 2. Do you find yourself getting zapped from static electricity a lot more due to the case being all aluminum?
> 
> 3. Since I would be air cooling my build, does the case provide decent air cooling?
> 
> 5. When the front fans are spinning at their max, do the small openings in the front of the case create any noise, as the air is being sucked in through them?
> 
> 6. If you're air cooling this case, what is your fan set up?
> 
> 7. Are the stock fans any good?
> 
> 8. Do the dust filters do a good job keeping out the dust?
> 
> Your thoughts about the case?. And of course, if you have any pics of the silver version, post them up so I can drool over them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks in advance, everyone!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh, and get some sleep, doyll!


1. The silver version is bare aluminum with no andonizing. A scratch will not affect the color. The finish is a sandblated matte, so you can't simply polish out a scratch without polishing the entire case to a chrome like finish.

2. No, but my case is on a wood floor, not carpet.

3. Yes, if you can follow advice. If you build it, then ask why your temps are warm, we can't help you.

5. Any fans running at over 600rpm would be audible. The front panel doesn't add any additional noise, as long as you use the front as an intake and not an exhaust.

6. N/A. I am water cooled.

7. They are excellent. Definitely in the top 5. I only changed to Corsair ML140 because I like LED fans.

8. Yes.


----------



## michael-ocn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *redserv*
> 
> Guys can someone help me with some advice please, i would really appreciate it


Do you have a specific question? If its about a Phanteks case, your in the right place.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dorito Bandit*
> 
> *Evolv ATX Galaxy Silver (Windowed Version)Questions*
> 
> I have been wanting this case for awhile, now. I have the Enthoo Pro, but would like something a little smaller for when traveling. I very well may end up keeping my Enthoo Pro, but I have a few questions for those of you who own this particular case, but any Evolv owner can answer as well.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 1. Is the Silver finish easily scratched?
> 
> 2. Do you find yourself getting zapped from static electricity a lot more due to the case being all aluminum?
> 
> 3. Since I would be air cooling my build, does the case provide decent air cooling?
> 
> 5. When the front fans are spinning at their max, do the small openings in the front of the case create any noise, as the air is being sucked in through them?
> 
> 6. If you're air cooling this case, what is your fan set up?
> 
> 7. Are the stock fans any good?
> 
> 8. Do the dust filters do a good job keeping out the dust?
> 
> Your thoughts about the case?. And of course, if you have any pics of the silver version, post them up so I can drool over them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks in advance, everyone!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh, and get some sleep, doyll!


1. I'm almost positive it has a painted finish, and if it is not painted it is not raw aluminum. Sand or bead blasted aluminum is literally impossible to keep looking good. It starts oxidizing as soon as blasting is done and even clean hands will leave visible finger prints in it. Anodizing is an electrolytic passivation process used to increase the thickness of the natural oxide layer on the surface of metal parts. Passivation is the use of a light coat of a protective material, such as metal oxide, to create a shell against corrosion.

2. No, aluminum is no different than anything else that static charges collect in or are discharged to.

3. Yes, it provides decent air cooling. Mine is air cooled with case airflow never being more then 4-5c above room ambient, even when stress testing both CPU and GPU at same time. (i7 980X @ 4.2GHz & KFA2 GeForce GTX 770 LTD OC).

5. When case fans spin at max the fans make more noise than the airflow around front cover. The front cover an vent gap is deceptive. It looks like a small amount of venting for 2x 140mm fans, but it is totally unrestricted area .. compared to almost all other cases having decorative grilss that are very restrictive .. like 50-80% restrictive.

6. 2x front and 1x back with speed controlled by CPU heat.

7. Stock fans are very good.

8. Dust filters do a good job. I vacuum mine every other week and inside is vertically dust free after about a year (maybe more) of use.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *redserv*
> 
> Guys can someone help me with some advice please, i would really appreciate it


Sure, like explain what you want advice about for a start.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *1ceSt0rm*
> 
> Uh.... I've been using a Corsair Obsidian 450 for the last 3 years dude...


Well, then. Welcome to a whole new world of well built and designed cases! And that explains why you have the assumption that the mfg is going to be of absolutely no help to you, but that isn't the case with Phanteks. They will get you taken care of.


----------



## ITAngel

I second what doyll said, I got my Phanteks Enthoo Pro case and it seems like I was the first one to open it. I have order many cases from Amazon and no issues what so ever. I been building PC for a very long time and been a Amazon customer for a long time now. Only issue have had was with two items. A huge oversize umbrella for the beach but was manufacture packaging that cause the issue and Ipad 2 glass screens when I use to replace them. They would come cracked on the way here.







Now I never order a side glass case, and depending how UPS/FedEx handle those, which mean it could be getting damage on the way to you.


----------



## redserv

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *redserv*
> 
> ExtendedMotherboardTray 1471k .JPG file
> 
> 
> PhantekSidepanelMod 1308k .JPG file
> Guys these are the parts that i am using in this build.
> 
> Already have
> 
> Asus z170s Sabertooth motherboard
> 64GB corsair vengeance lpx ddr4 2400Mhz
> Alphacool 420mm xt45 radiator will be push/pull for the ceiling
> EK supremacy evo elite edition CPU block
> Intel core I7 6700k CPU
> Corsair AX860i PSU
> 
> Still need to purchase
> Samsung 960pro 512GB
> Possibly GTX1080TI
> Asus sound card
> Alphacool monster 480mm for the floor
> 
> I need advice on watercooling stuff, I will like to go petg white tubing probably 14 or 16 OD , what fittings shall I Get? shall I use bitspower or barrow, I will like a tube type reserviour, can I get a 400mm in my case? Check pics of my case. This is just some of the questions I have, feel free to leave advice and suggestions.


----------



## ITAngel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *1ceSt0rm*
> 
> One was USPS 3 day the other was Fedex overnight, both outside shipping boxes were hardly dented, so no damage was possible via shipping, its all been factory defects from Phantek other then the second case's window covering was poorly installed at factory and resulted in scratching on edges


oh that is odd, sorry to hear that and I bet that is pretty frustrated. The cases I have gotten in the past with Acrylic or whatever that plastic window is they ave come perfectly no issues. So I can only speak for my experience so far.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *1ceSt0rm*
> 
> Well.... hell. Paint me red and call me a barn for surprised


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *1ceSt0rm*
> 
> Well.... hell. Paint me red and call me a barn for surprised
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I've been following this thread for a while and would have been very surprised by any other response from Phanteks. Their customer service seems to be extremely good.


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rfarmer*
> 
> I've been following this thread for a while and would have been very surprised by any other response from Phanteks. Their customer service seems to be extremely good.


It is good but not extremely good though.

I get replacement parts and it took them a whole week in order to send new parts while i am in the Netherlands and its a Dutch company i would expect them to have the parts much faster. When i did an RMA request to Corsair, i had my replacement panel within 3 days and that is being shipped from California..


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *1ceSt0rm*
> 
> We Americans are an impatient bunch, we want our crap before we even ordered it, so hence why most American companies and support tend to work and ship faster due to market demands. European companies seem to be like the French, they'll do it when they feel like it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hell, with Amazon in Seattle, you can get stuff shipped to your door within an hour. Yes, an hour. Why? Because we want our sheet NOW and we'll pay for it. Just wait until the Amazon and ups drones start flying around


That explains a lot IMO.

I have American blood and i am very impatient with when i get new stuff lol









No seriously, i don't think that is it because normally retail stores are very fast with this type of stuff.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *redserv*
> 
> Guys can someone help me with some advice please, i would really appreciate it


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> It is good but not extremely good though.
> 
> I get replacement parts and it took them a whole week in order to send new parts while i am in the Netherlands and its a Dutch company i would expect them to have the parts much faster. When i did an RMA request to Corsair, i had my replacement panel within 3 days and that is being shipped from California..


Are you sure the sent it from Califronia? While corsail has it contact offices in Califorinia, they also have distribution and are placement in UK and other European countries.

I've had half a dozen dealings with Corsair. None have been good experiences.
I have several dealings with Phanteks support every year and have never had a bad experience.


----------



## ITAngel

I am the same way to, cannot wait until they create a teleportation unit so I can order a case and have it teleport it to my room. lol







Is why I order from Amazon a lot even if I pay a bit more 2 day to 3 day shipping mans a lot to me.


----------



## ITAngel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *1ceSt0rm*
> 
> Well you also kinda live in the middle of nowhere lol. Source: Father from Sheridan WY, im from Montana.


LOL! oh i see, haha nice. Yes I do live in the middle of nowhere land for sure.


----------



## TheWizardMan

This is my Luxe TG build:



The whole thing can be seen at https://pcpartpicker.com/b/KkTBD3


----------



## Omie

I'm having an annoying issue with my case. I have an Enthoo Luxe Tempered Glass case but I notice that my case makes pretty loud popping noises when I first start up my computer. It makes these noises much more frequently if I haven't used the computer in a while or when I start up a game.

The popping noises seem to be coming from the top mesh filter which covers my radiator. If I press down on it I can imitate those popping noises. Also if I touch the sides of the case I can sometimes make the sounds. It's like that noise when something has been touched after a while and it sort of pops/creaks when touched.

Does anyone else experience this?


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Are you sure the sent it from Califronia? While corsail has it contact offices in Califorinia, they also have distribution and are placement in UK and other European countries.
> 
> I've had half a dozen dealings with Corsair. None have been good experiences.
> I have several dealings with Phanteks support every year and have never had a bad experience.


Yes i am sure because they said so. They have indeed an deposit in the Netherlands but not for my case and Cooling component i had to RMA.

I really find it strange that you have had difficulty with Corsair because they are known about their excellent customer care. I am not calling you a lier by any means but i guess it differs from where you are from. Some places have difficulty with RMA while others from another place or country has not.

I never dealt with Phanteks though so i am kinda curious as to when i can expect my new items.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Are you sure the sent it from Califronia? While corsail has it contact offices in Califorinia, they also have distribution and are placement in UK and other European countries.
> 
> I've had half a dozen dealings with Corsair. None have been good experiences.
> I have several dealings with Phanteks support every year and have never had a bad experience.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *1ceSt0rm*
> 
> E-tailors vs retailers are two very different things. No retail shop with web based shopping that I know of can turn stuff around quicker then dedicated e-shops


It depends. Sometimes they are E-tailors and retailers at the same time and it all depends if you have it ordered by their E-shop or their retail physical shop. We have some outstanding services here and some of them even allows customers to return their product within 60 days without even a single question! Some of them are even a member of a so called "ICT waarborg" which means is that they promise to have the best customer care otherwise you can file a complaint against them and they will be fined.

I guess warranty and service is much different and it depends from where you are from.


----------



## d0mmie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Omie*
> 
> I'm having an annoying issue with my case. I have an Enthoo Luxe Tempered Glass case but I notice that my case makes pretty loud popping noises when I first start up my computer. It makes these noises much more frequently if I haven't used the computer in a while or when I start up a game.
> 
> The popping noises seem to be coming from the top mesh filter which covers my radiator. If I press down on it I can imitate those popping noises. Also if I touch the sides of the case I can sometimes make the sounds. It's like that noise when something has been touched after a while and it sort of pops/creaks when touched.
> 
> Does anyone else experience this?


Mine does that as well. I have a 360mm radiator in the top compartment and once I turn on the PC I get a few of those pops, nothing too serious though. I don't even notice it anymore


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> Yes i am sure because they said so. They have indeed an deposit in the Netherlands but not for my case and Cooling component i had to RMA.
> 
> I really find it strange that you have had difficulty with Corsair because they are known about their excellent customer care. I am not calling you a lier by any means but i guess it differs from where you are from. Some places have difficulty with RMA while others from another place or country has not.
> 
> I never dealt with Phanteks though so i am kinda curious as to when i can expect my new items.
> 
> It depends. Sometimes they are E-tailors and retailers at the same time and it all depends if you have it ordered by their E-shop or their retail physical shop. We have some outstanding services here and some of them even allows customers to return their product within 60 days without even a single question! Some of them are even a member of a so called "ICT waarborg" which means is that they promise to have the best customer care otherwise you can file a complaint against them and they will be fined.
> 
> I guess warranty and service is much different and it depends from where you are from.


Many E-tailors / retailers do international orders in 3-7 days depending on how many times it changes hands and of course import rules and customs inspections involved. International into USA often slows thing by 2-3 days for customs / Homeland Security checks. I often order from Asia with 3-7 day delivery time.

It definitely does depend on where you are. Mostly it is about how well the consumer protection laws of country we live in protect us. With many companies it is not customer support to keep customer happy but to keep the country's law enforcement happy and off their backs .. the more protection the consumer laws give the buyer, the better the 'customer support' from these companies is.


----------



## Psilosoph8

Is there anyone with an after-market Enthoo Luxe side panel that would like to sell the large removable acrylic window from their old panel? broke mine trying to mod it for 140mm fans.. Might say screw the window entirely and use a nice piece of aluminum. sturdier and durable enough for fan holes and could look pretty cool with a carbon fiber finish maybe. thoughts?


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheWizardMan*
> 
> This is my Luxe TG build:
> 
> 
> 
> The whole thing can be seen at https://pcpartpicker.com/b/KkTBD3


Yeah, I think you are just really unlucky. I would NEVER

Dude... that is one seriously nice build. Wow. I don't know how you pulled off those tubing runs in the back. My hands would have said, "Nope!"


----------



## redserv

Hello guys I am new to watercooling. I am going to be using petg hard tubing for the first time in my new rig that I am building. Can someone help me with a sketch of the tube routing with 1 rad on the roof, one rad on the floor , one gpu and one tube res please? my case is phantek enthoo primo


----------



## owcraftsman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Omie*
> 
> I'm having an annoying issue with my case. I have an Enthoo Luxe Tempered Glass case but I notice that my case makes pretty loud popping noises when I first start up my computer. It makes these noises much more frequently if I haven't used the computer in a while or when I start up a game.
> 
> The popping noises seem to be coming from the top mesh filter which covers my radiator. If I press down on it I can imitate those popping noises. Also if I touch the sides of the case I can sometimes make the sounds. It's like that noise when something has been touched after a while and it sort of pops/creaks when touched.
> 
> Does anyone else experience this?


If you are using a filter in the top it must mean you have fans on top of radiator set as intake. This exposes the blades to the top filter insert. Otherwise there is no need for a filter. The filter can be removed for cleaning by lifting the tabs that secure the steel mesh to the plastic frame where the filter is sandwiched between the two. This begs the question is one of those tabs sticking down to far and interfering with one of your fans at startup. I had similar problems when I tried some Swiftech Helix fans which when in this same orientation literally jump up when they startup and settle back down as they increase rpm. So I cannot rule out a fan issue here either. The only thing that discounts this as the issue is that you say "when I start up a game" unless fans were idle prior to starting the game which would/should be unlikely but do check to see that all fans are moving at some rpm when load is idle. GL


----------



## dlewbell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Psilosoph8*
> 
> Is there anyone with an after-market Enthoo Luxe side panel that would like to sell the large removable acrylic window from their old panel? broke mine trying to mod it for 140mm fans.. Might say screw the window entirely and use a nice piece of aluminum. sturdier and durable enough for fan holes and could look pretty cool with a carbon fiber finish maybe. thoughts?


Try contacting Phanteks directly. Obviously there will be some cost involved since you caused the damage yourself, but from what I've heard, they're pretty good about selling replacement parts. You could also ask about buying the non-windowed side panel that's available with the Enthoo Pro if you want to do away with the window altogether.

The other option is to contact @Bill Owen with Mnpctech. They sell a replacement side panel for the Luxe that is just a single 3/8" thick acrylic panel. It should be a lot easier to drill through without breaking, & If you don't want to deal with doing it yourself, ask him if they could add holes to the panel before shipping, & what they'd charge to do so. https://mnpctech.com/phanteks-case-mods/phanteks-enthoo-pro-clear-window-replacement-side-panel-clone.html


----------



## Psilosoph8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dlewbell*
> 
> Try contacting Phanteks directly. Obviously there will be some cost involved since you caused the damage yourself, but from what I've heard, they're pretty good about selling replacement parts. You could also ask about buying the non-windowed side panel that's available with the Enthoo Pro if you want to do away with the window altogether.
> 
> The other option is to contact @Bill Owen with Mnpctech. They sell a replacement side panel for the Luxe that is just a single 3/8" thick acrylic panel. It should be a lot easier to drill through without breaking, & If you don't want to deal with doing it yourself, ask him if they could add holes to the panel before shipping, & what they'd charge to do so. https://mnpctech.com/phanteks-case-mods/phanteks-enthoo-pro-clear-window-replacement-side-panel-clone.html


Yeah I filled out a contact form/request for exactly that from mnpc, I see that their phanteks full acrylic panels are all sold out, are they pretty good about getting stock in regularly?
Paying them to machine the fan/screw holes in the full acrylic panel for me would be a dream come true, i've no direct experience with him yet but he makes some damn nice mods/themes.
no qualms about paying decent chunk of change for quality work

thanks for the reply and the awesome info









one more thing, if I may pick your brain about the fan hole placement; going to have a 240mm rad on top as intake, was thinking of placing the two fan holes in side panel so they suck the rad intake right back out, along with a 140mm exhaust in back. reasonable? front has a 240mm AIO as intake that will be on the GPU, as well as two more 120mm intakes on the bottom/floor panel.Assuming all my fans are running at the same percentage, ie 50% RPM, my intake is just shy of twice what my exhaust is. I realize positive/negative is negligible but is it still true of a difference like this? Worst case scenario I just set intake fan speeds lower to close the gap.


----------



## michael-ocn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *redserv*
> 
> Hello guys I am new to watercooling. I am going to be using petg hard tubing for the first time in my new rig that I am building. Can someone help me with a sketch of the tube routing with 1 rad on the roof, one rad on the floor , one gpu and one tube res please? my case is phantek enthoo primo


I think this question is probably too general to be easily answered. Here's a suggestion, produce a rough sketch that incorporates the components you have to work with, be specific about the components in the loop, then ask people what they think of it. I'm sure you can find pics of loops similar to the one you intend to build, use those as a starting point for planning yours.


----------



## dlewbell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Psilosoph8*
> 
> Yeah I filled out a contact form/request for exactly that from mnpc, I see that their phanteks full acrylic panels are all sold out, are they pretty good about getting stock in regularly?
> Paying them to machine the fan/screw holes in the full acrylic panel for me would be a dream come true, i've no direct experience with him yet but he makes some damn nice mods/themes.
> no qualms about paying decent chunk of change for quality work
> 
> thanks for the reply and the awesome info
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> one more thing, if I may pick your brain about the fan hole placement; going to have a 240mm rad on top as intake, was thinking of placing the two fan holes in side panel so they suck the rad intake right back out, along with a 140mm exhaust in back. reasonable? front has a 240mm AIO as intake that will be on the GPU, as well as two more 120mm intakes on the bottom/floor panel.Assuming all my fans are running at the same percentage, ie 50% RPM, my intake is just shy of twice what my exhaust is. I realize positive/negative is negligible but is it still true of a difference like this? Worst case scenario I just set intake fan speeds lower to close the gap.


I don't think I can answer either of those questions for you. I've never done business with Mnpctech, so I have no idea how often he restocks or manufacturers older products. I've also never had a case with a side panel fan mount or more than just a single 120mm radiator, so I don't think I'm the right person to be giving airflow setup advice for your situation. Hopefully some of the other people in this thread will have some better answers for you.


----------



## R99photography

Hello,
Still evaluating the purchase of this case. Reading a review at techpowerup.com, it looks like that installing a Lampton FC5 rheobus or other 5,25" device with dials, the front door won't close. Do you confirm?

Inviato dal mio iPad utilizzando Tapatalk


----------



## Dorito Bandit

*Evolv ATX Galaxy Silver (Windowed Version)Questions*

I have been wanting this case for awhile, now. I have the Enthoo Pro, but would like something a little smaller for when traveling. I very well may end up keeping my Enthoo Pro, but I have a few questions for those of you who own this particular case, but any Evolv owner can answer as well.









1. Is the Silver finish easily scratched?

2. Do you find yourself getting zapped from static electricity a lot more due to the case being all aluminum?

3. Since I would be air cooling my build, does the case provide decent air cooling?

5. When the front fans are spinning at their max, do the small openings in the front of the case create any noise, as the air is being sucked in through them?

6. If you're air cooling this case, what is your fan set up?

7. Are the stock fans any good?

8. Do the dust filters do a good job keeping out the dust?

Your thoughts about the case?. And of course, if you have any pics of the silver version, post them up so I can drool over them.









Thanks in advance, everyone!









Oh, and get some sleep, doyll!









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0451*
> 
> 1. The silver version is bare aluminum with no andonizing. A scratch will not affect the color. The finish is a sandblated matte, so you can't simply polish out a scratch without polishing the entire case to a chrome like finish.
> 
> 2. No, but my case is on a wood floor, not carpet.
> 
> 3. Yes, if you can follow advice. If you build it, then ask why your temps are warm, we can't help you.
> 
> 5. Any fans running at over 600rpm would be audible. The front panel doesn't add any additional noise, as long as you use the front as an intake and not an exhaust.
> 
> 6. N/A. I am water cooled.
> 
> 7. They are excellent. Definitely in the top 5. I only changed to Corsair ML140 because I like LED fans.
> 
> 8. Yes.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> 1. I'm almost positive it has a painted finish, and if it is not painted it is not raw aluminum. Sand or bead blasted aluminum is literally impossible to keep looking good. It starts oxidizing as soon as blasting is done and even clean hands will leave visible finger prints in it. Anodizing is an electrolytic passivation process used to increase the thickness of the natural oxide layer on the surface of metal parts. Passivation is the use of a light coat of a protective material, such as metal oxide, to create a shell against corrosion.
> 
> 2. No, aluminum is no different than anything else that static charges collect in or are discharged to.
> 
> 3. Yes, it provides decent air cooling. Mine is air cooled with case airflow never being more then 4-5c above room ambient, even when stress testing both CPU and GPU at same time. (i7 980X @ 4.2GHz & KFA2 GeForce GTX 770 LTD OC).
> 
> 5. When case fans spin at max the fans make more noise than the airflow around front cover. The front cover an vent gap is deceptive. It looks like a small amount of venting for 2x 140mm fans, but it is totally unrestricted area .. compared to almost all other cases having decorative grilss that are very restrictive .. like 50-80% restrictive.
> 
> 6. 2x front and 1x back with speed controlled by CPU heat.
> 
> 7. Stock fans are very good.
> 
> 8. Dust filters do a good job. I vacuum mine every other week and inside is vertically dust free after about a year (maybe more) of use.
> Sure, like explain what you want advice about for a start.


Thank you guys very much for the quick replies!






























Now, if you don't mind, I have just a few more questions I meant to ask earlier.









1. I read where a couple guys were saying that the case makes a high-pitch buzzing sound when the side door is closed, yet it goes away when the door is open. Have any of you heard this?

2. Does the top of the case have dust filters over the vent holes?

3. Are the side panels well secured in place when closed? They won't easily pop open when moving the case, will they? I'd be occasionally traveling with mine, and this is a big concern for me.

4. Will this case attract hot chicks? Okay, I am being silly with this one!









Again, thanks everyone!


----------



## Benny89

Hi Guys,

I am torn between *PHANTEKS Enthoo Evolv ATX versions*. Plexi vs Tempered Glass







. Can't decide. I have currently case with Plexi side panel and it looks great, so I wonder if tempered is worth it.

I don't like that tempered glass is on the other side also. I hate having to see Cables as I work my ass off to have a clean look without any cable visible. Also Tempered glass window is much bigger and you can clearly see LED strips at top, bottom and sides, so it does not give this subtle "light form inside" effect but the LED strips are glowing like christmas tree.

However Tempered glass looks better, is more strudy and insides looks just better.

Really torn between those versions...

Any advice? Anyone here who could directly compare both to each other? Thanks for any help


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benny89*
> 
> Hi Guys,
> 
> I am torn between *PHANTEKS Enthoo Evolv ATX versions*. Plexi vs Tempered Glass
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Can't decide. I have currently case with Plexi side panel and it looks great, so I wonder if tempered is worth it.
> 
> I don't like that tempered glass is on the other side also. I hate having to see Cables as I work my ass off to have a clean look without any cable visible. Also Tempered glass window is much bigger and you can clearly see LED strips at top, bottom and sides, so it does not give this subtle "light form inside" effect but the LED strips are glowing like christmas tree.
> 
> However Tempered glass looks better, is more strudy and insides looks just better.
> 
> Really torn between those versions...
> 
> Any advice? Anyone here who could directly compare both to each other? Thanks for any help


Glass. Just cover the inside of the back panel with some black vinyl wrap. Problem solved.

IMO the clarity of the glass makes the LED flow better.


----------



## RXWX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheWizardMan*
> 
> This is my Luxe TG build:
> 
> 
> 
> The whole thing can be seen at https://pcpartpicker.com/b/KkTBD3


ayyy i'm the hdd guy from pcpp wahahahahahahahah!!!!!!!


----------



## geriatricpollywog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benny89*
> 
> Hi Guys,
> 
> I am torn between *PHANTEKS Enthoo Evolv ATX versions*. Plexi vs Tempered Glass
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Can't decide. I have currently case with Plexi side panel and it looks great, so I wonder if tempered is worth it.
> 
> I don't like that tempered glass is on the other side also. I hate having to see Cables as I work my ass off to have a clean look without any cable visible. Also Tempered glass window is much bigger and you can clearly see LED strips at top, bottom and sides, so it does not give this subtle "light form inside" effect but the LED strips are glowing like christmas tree.
> 
> However Tempered glass looks better, is more strudy and insides looks just better.
> 
> Really torn between those versions...
> 
> Any advice? Anyone here who could directly compare both to each other? Thanks for any help


The glass looks absolutely stunning in person. I have LED fans and don't need an LED strip. As for the back panel, i know what you mean. I plan to spray the inside of the glass with black plasti-dip to hide the cables.


----------



## geriatricpollywog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dorito Bandit*
> 
> 1. I read where a couple guys were saying that the case makes a high-pitch buzzing sound when the side door is closed, yet it goes away when the door is open. Have any of you heard this?
> 
> 2. Does the top of the case have dust filters over the vent holes?
> 
> 3. Are the side panels well secured in place when closed? They won't easily pop open when moving the case, will they? I'd be occasionally traveling with mine, and this is a big concern for me.
> 
> 4. Will this case attract hot chicks? Okay, I am being silly with this one!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Again, thanks everyone!


Quit being a wussy and buy the case. You won't regret it.

1. Not on the glass version

2. Yes and no. The slits on top of the case has a perforated fabric but I'm not sure how effective it is. My top is an exhaust. Much of the air flows out the front and back of the top chamber and these areas are not filtered.

3. Yes, on the glass version.

4. Yes, the glass version does.


----------



## ITAngel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *1ceSt0rm*
> 
> If you go the extra mile and do a real good job with cables, you can make back glass part look real good honestly. I was worried to which put me off from buying the case but now that I have it, im excited to see what I can do with my cabling skills to the max
> 
> An example


that looks really nice!


----------



## paulkemp

Phanteks Eclipse P400 - Any included 3.5" drive bays

For a new plex server build I want a good case that can take more than 3 3.5" hard drives. Preferably 6 in total. My last 4 builds have all been in Fractal cases, and I love them. But its fun to try new things. The Evolv ATX loooks very nice, but its too expensive (this machine is spare parts bullt).

I have my eyes set on the Eclipse P400, but I am struggetling to understand if the case actually comes with the hard drive bays or not. I know there are 2 3.5" slots beneeth, and you can possible mount 4 more to the right in the case, but does the bays come with the case? Can some owner vertify? Thx!


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paulkemp*
> 
> Phanteks Eclipse P400 - Any included 3.5" drive bays
> 
> For a new plex server build I want a good case that can take more than 3 3.5" hard drives. Preferably 6 in total. My last 4 builds have all been in Fractal cases, and I love them. But its fun to try new things. The Evolv ATX loooks very nice, but its too expensive (this machine is spare parts bullt).
> 
> I have my eyes set on the Eclipse P400, but I am struggetling to understand if the case actually comes with the hard drive bays or not. I know there are 2 3.5" slots beneeth, and you can possible mount 4 more to the right in the case, but does the bays come with the case? Can some owner vertify? Thx!


Only the 2 under the PSU cover are included, if you want to use the 4 others in the motherboard chamber you need to get 4 modular HDD brackets.

http://www.phanteks.com/PH-HDDKT2.html
https://www.amazon.com/Phanteks-Modular-Bracket-Specifice-PH-HDD-KT02/dp/B015AD1L0O


----------



## Zeddicus

Just got the Elite. Love it so far. Does any one have any questions?


----------



## paulkemp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gilles3000*
> 
> Only the 2 under the PSU cover are included, if you want to use the 4 others in the motherboard chamber you need to get 4 modular HDD brackets.
> 
> http://www.phanteks.com/PH-HDDKT2.html
> https://www.amazon.com/Phanteks-Modular-Bracket-Specifice-PH-HDD-KT02/dp/B015AD1L0O


Yeah I saw that. I thought they were unaccessible here in Norway, but I found them! Nice!

Now, to choose what color...


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zeddicus*
> 
> Just got the Elite. Love it so far. Does any one have any questions?


Do you feel like it was worth the $900 you paid for it compared to similarly priced cases?


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zeddicus*
> 
> Just got the Elite. Love it so far. Does any one have any questions?


I'd like to know how restrictive the various rad/fan placements are and which layout you decide is optimal.

Also, I don't know if it would be possible, but could you get a shot of the top from directly above?


----------



## Zeddicus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gilles3000*
> 
> Do you feel like it was worth the $900 you paid for it compared to similarly priced cases?


It's hard to say at the moment. It's definitely a premium case. Everything from the case it's shipped in down to the user manual is fantastic.


----------



## Zeddicus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> I'd like to know how restrictive the various rad/fan placements are and which layout you decide is optimal.
> 
> Also, I don't know if it would be possible, but could you get a shot of the top from directly above?


I haven't done a full install yet. I'm waiting for my Ryzen CPU and motherboard. I'll get some pics later tonight or tomorrow morning.


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zeddicus*
> 
> I haven't done a full install yet. I'm waiting for my Ryzen CPU and motherboard. I'll get some pics later tonight or tomorrow morning.


Did you preorder? Ryzen is looking more and more promising but I am waiting until I see some independent testing done.

If you have one coming please let us know how it is.


----------



## Zeddicus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rfarmer*
> 
> Did you preorder? Ryzen is looking more and more promising but I am waiting until I see some independent testing done.
> 
> If you have one coming please let us know how it is.


Yes I did. Will do.


----------



## Omie

Is it ok that one of my PCIe cables coming out of my GPU is touching the tempered glass window on my Enthoo Luxe case? When I close my window it pushes on the PCIe cable a little since the cable sticks out a little too far.

I can try pushing the cable towards the back of the motherboard more but that would involve opening the back of my PC again which is a hassle for me.

Is there any harm that can be done to the tempered glass window if the PCIe cable is touching it?

Here are some pics I took:


http://imgur.com/dPYSk


----------



## d0mmie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Omie*
> 
> Is it ok that one of my PCIe cables coming out of my GPU is touching the tempered glass window on my Enthoo Luxe case? When I close my window it pushes on the PCIe cable a little since the cable sticks out a little too far.
> 
> I can try pushing the cable towards the back of the motherboard more but that would involve opening the back of my PC again which is a hassle for me.
> 
> Is there any harm that can be done to the tempered glass window if the PCIe cable is touching it?
> 
> Here are some pics I took:
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/dPYSk


Nothing is going to happen from that, don't worry about it.


----------



## geriatricpollywog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Omie*
> 
> Is it ok that one of my PCIe cables coming out of my GPU is touching the tempered glass window on my Enthoo Luxe case? When I close my window it pushes on the PCIe cable a little since the cable sticks out a little too far.
> 
> I can try pushing the cable towards the back of the motherboard more but that would involve opening the back of my PC again which is a hassle for me.
> 
> Is there any harm that can be done to the tempered glass window if the PCIe cable is touching it?
> 
> Here are some pics I took:
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/dPYSk


As dommie mentioned, not a problem. But its ugly. Cablemod cables are more flexible and will not touch the windiw.


----------



## michael-ocn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benny89*
> 
> Hi Guys,
> 
> I am torn between *PHANTEKS Enthoo Evolv ATX versions*. Plexi vs Tempered Glass
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Can't decide. I have currently case with Plexi side panel and it looks great, so I wonder if tempered is worth it.
> 
> I don't like that tempered glass is on the other side also. I hate having to see Cables as I work my ass off to have a clean look without any cable visible. Also Tempered glass window is much bigger and you can clearly see LED strips at top, bottom and sides, so it does not give this subtle "light form inside" effect but the LED strips are glowing like christmas tree.
> 
> However Tempered glass looks better, is more strudy and insides looks just better.
> 
> Really torn between those versions...
> 
> Any advice? Anyone here who could directly compare both to each other? Thanks for any help


The plexi door swings open on hinges, that's the determining factor for me. I'm not at all concerned at looking into the case thru the panel, i have no lighting and no braided cabling. I rather have a solid panel door honestly. The ease with which the hinged panels swing open is great, i pop it open when gaming most of the time so the gpu exhaust more easily escapes. Having said all that, if you're into cosmetics, the TG is easily more stunning, the wall to wall,floor to ceiling glass panels are pretty cool looking.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Omie*
> 
> Is it ok that one of my PCIe cables coming out of my GPU is touching the tempered glass window on my Enthoo Luxe case? When I close my window it pushes on the PCIe cable a little since the cable sticks out a little too far.
> 
> I can try pushing the cable towards the back of the motherboard more but that would involve opening the back of my PC again which is a hassle for me.
> 
> Is there any harm that can be done to the tempered glass window if the PCIe cable is touching it?
> 
> Here are some pics I took:
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/dPYSk


If it bugs you, gran an EVGA Powerlink - http://www.evga.com/products/product.aspx?pn=600-PL-2816-LR


----------



## Saint Chewy

I got my Enthoo Pro M the other day. I am struggling to get it to work with my set up. I have Corsair Dominator Platinum sticks of ram and my h115i wont fit on the top part of the case because it hits my ram. I also cant seem to have the radiator fit in the front of the case even though it says a 280mm radiator will fit. Does anyone have any pictures of the Enthoo Pro M with a 280mm radiator in the front?


----------



## Scotty99

Sup guys, i just realize phanteks has a tempered glass edition of the P400 now .

I originally scratched this case off my list because of the front dust filters and how small they were, how is everyones experience in here with them and do they actually stop dust from getting into the case? P400 TG is priced better than s340 elite and already comes with a top dust filter which is a nice addon, plus it supports a 360 rad in the front.

Tough choice, but how are you P400 owners liking your case? I also like that the TG does not go all the way to the edge like on the s340, you got front panel in case i swivel chair into the case lol.

Edit:
One more question, if i put a 360mm rad (deepcool all in one) can i move the hdd cage over or does it need to be removed completely?

Thanks.


----------



## TotalLamer

Does anyone know if you can fit a Corsair H105 top-mounted -and- a Blu-Ray drive in the Enthoo Pro?


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Saint Chewy*
> 
> I got my Enthoo Pro M the other day. I am struggling to get it to work with my set up. I have Corsair Dominator Platinum sticks of ram and my h115i wont fit on the top part of the case because it hits my ram. I also cant seem to have the radiator fit in the front of the case even though it says a 280mm radiator will fit. Does anyone have any pictures of the Enthoo Pro M with a 280mm radiator in the front?


this is an issue with virtually every mid tower on the market with super tall ram and 280 rads. should do a little research before buying parts. the case fits a 280 rad in the front, there are several builds you can find just by doing the google thing. but I'll link some from pcpp.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TotalLamer*
> 
> Does anyone know if you can fit a Corsair H105 top-mounted -and- a Blu-Ray drive in the Enthoo Pro?


the Enthoo Pro full tower? the one with a top mount that fits 420 rads and 3 5.25" bays? I believe the correct answer to your question is "yes, it will easily fit the H105 and a blu-ray drive with plenty of room to spare".


----------



## TMatzelle60

What do you guys use to control your fans?

Looking for my best option was looking into the Aquaero 5 LT but I am not doing a custom loop. As you know the Aquaero 5 LT is software based


----------



## Saint Chewy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PureBlackFire*
> 
> this is an issue with virtually every mid tower on the market with super tall ram and 280 rads. should do a little research before buying parts. the case fits a 280 rad in the front, there are several builds you can find just by doing the google thing. but I'll link some from pcpp.
> .


Too be fair I tried to do as much research as I could before buying the case its not like I just bought it on a whim. There wasn't a whole lot of information on the case. Not as many reviews for it as others as well. I went off of Phanteks main page for the case and it did state that the radiators would fit. No one mentioned anything about ram clearance being an issue. Not a huge deal if it doesn't work I will just send it back

edit: I just checked Phanteks page for the case again and it appears I did miss the section for clearance I was just looking at the liquid cooling section. Oh well I might just send this back and get the Ethoo Evolv then


----------



## TotalLamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PureBlackFire*
> 
> this is an issue with virtually every mid tower on the market with super tall ram and 280 rads. should do a little research before buying parts. the case fits a 280 rad in the front, there are several builds you can find just by doing the google thing. but I'll link some from pcpp.
> the Enthoo Pro full tower? the one with a top mount that fits 420 rads and 3 5.25" bays? I believe the correct answer to your question is "yes, it will easily fit the H105 and a blu-ray drive with plenty of room to spare".


No, the mid-tower. I didn't actually know there was a full-tower.


----------



## exploiteddna

hey all.. so im buying a new phanteks case, that much i am sure of. however... i just can't decide which one. Im basically between:

Enthoo Pro
Enthoo Luxe
P400 (maybe, if it meets reqs below)
Enthoo Pro M (maybe, if it meets reqs below)
maybe some of tempered glass versions of these
Open to other Phantek cases that meet the below requirements
*My requirements are*:


360 rad push or pull not both (unless it happens to have room then maybe, but not a requirement)
res and pump mounting options, either native or with their accessory adapters
2 HDD mounts, at least
2 SSD mounts

case needs to be clean. I Like sharp edges, crisp, minimalistic exterior, etc. Anything that reminds me of a cooler master type of design is a no go. Anything that reminds me of an Corsair 750D exterior is good. The cheaper the better, but im willing to spend if it is justified and/or the added cost provides noticeable feature upgrades, or accommodates my needs better. Regardless, upper 100s is as high as I'll go, period.

Right now I'm struggling to justify the Luxe over Pro.. given theyre about $60 apart right now. I do like that Luxe has the extra room up top that could allow for a push/pull if I wanted, or could just give better clearance of the memory/motherboard. I Don't really care about the LED lighting on the Luxe (it's nice and all, but that's not being taken into consideration when comparing the Luxe to the Pro.. it's the other features that I'm trying to compare)

Thoughts?

EDIT: I know they make information available about tech specs and which rads will fit, etc. However, what will technically fit, and what is a tight squeeze, versus personal experience of users, any caveats, etc. is what I'm looking for. How viable is each option for what I'm looking to do, and how much removal of cages or addition of brackets will be needed, etc. etc.


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Saint Chewy*
> 
> Too be fair I tried to do as much research as I could before buying the case its not like I just bought it on a whim. There wasn't a whole lot of information on the case. Not as many reviews for it as others as well. I went off of Phanteks main page for the case and it did state that the radiators would fit. No one mentioned anything about ram clearance being an issue. Not a huge deal if it doesn't work I will just send it back
> 
> edit: I just checked Phanteks page for the case again and it appears I did miss the section for clearance I was just looking at the liquid cooling section. Oh well I might just send this back and get the Ethoo Evolv then


the Evolv is the exact same chassis as the Pro M internally, just doesn't have an optical drive. not gonna solve the problem. options:

1) mount the cooler in the front
2) get a smaller cooler (240 rad based instead of 280)
3) get shorter ram
4) get a completely different case and check if this hardware fits together first
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TotalLamer*
> 
> No, the mid-tower. I didn't actually know there was a full-tower.


the mid tower is called "Pro *M*", a distinction best not forgotten. yes, you can mount the H105 with an optical drive in the top of the Pro M. you can also mount it in the front under the drive bay if needed. pics:




https://pcpartpicker.com/b/HYPscf
https://pcpartpicker.com/b/pFdXsY

some of those user builds have the H100i/v2 instead of the H105, but the rad on those is even a few mm longer and it clears with an optical drive.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *michaelrw*
> 
> hey all.. so im buying a new phanteks case, that much i am sure of. however... i just can't decide which one. Im basically between:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Enthoo Pro
> Enthoo Luxe
> P400 (maybe, if it meets reqs below)
> Enthoo Pro M (maybe, if it meets reqs below)
> maybe some of tempered glass versions of these
> Open to other Phantek cases that meet the below requirements
> *My requirements are*:
> 
> 
> 360 rad push or pull not both (unless it happens to have room then maybe, but not a requirement)
> res and pump mounting options, either native or with their accessory adapters
> 2 HDD mounts, at least
> 2 SSD mounts
> 
> case needs to be clean. I Like sharp edges, crisp, minimalistic exterior, etc. Anything that reminds me of a cooler master type of design is a no go. Anything that reminds me of an Corsair 750D exterior is good. The cheaper the better, but im willing to spend if it is justified and/or the added cost provides noticeable feature upgrades, or accommodates my needs better. Regardless, upper 100s is as high as I'll go, period.
> 
> Right now I'm struggling to justify the Luxe over Pro.. given theyre about $60 apart right now. I do like that Luxe has the extra room up top that could allow for a push/pull if I wanted, or could just give better clearance of the memory/motherboard. I Don't really care about the LED lighting on the Luxe (it's nice and all, but that's not being taken into consideration when comparing the Luxe to the Pro.. it's the other features that I'm trying to compare)
> 
> Thoughts?
> 
> EDIT: I know they make information available about tech specs and which rads will fit, etc. However, what will technically fit, and what is a tight squeeze, versus personal experience of users, any caveats, etc. is what I'm looking for. How viable is each option for what I'm looking to do, and how much removal of cages or addition of brackets will be needed, etc. etc.


you want an Enthoo Luxe or Evolv ATX, simple as that.


----------



## Saint Chewy

Now I did try to mount it in the front of the case and it by all means looks like it will fit, however the mounting holes and the radiator don't seem to line up. Also when I take out the optical drive bay its just a empty space and now where to mount to. It seems like its too big. Unless you can mount it without putting all the screws in?


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Saint Chewy*
> 
> Now I did try to mount it in the front of the case and it by all means looks like it will fit, however the mounting holes and the radiator don't seem to line up. Also when I take out the optical drive bay its just a empty space and now where to mount to. It seems like its too big. Unless you can mount it without putting all the screws in?


so the mounting holes for the 280 rad are not placed well then?


----------



## Saint Chewy

Thats what it seems like? My original plan was to put it in the front. I think it looks better that way

EDIT:So I just checked it again. You can fit 2 140mm in the front on the outside frame. However on the inside 2 140mm will not fit unless you remove the HDD cage. The top part of the cage is blocking the last part of the holes to screw in. Now I do know for sure on Phanteks' site that it says that a 280mm radiator will fit and it doesnt mention having to remove the HDD cage except for a 360mm radiator.

Unfortunately I still have a HDD to hold all of my media so I cant really build it with out it


----------



## Testing12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Saint Chewy*
> 
> I got my Enthoo Pro M the other day.


I love the Pro M (especially the tempered glass version).

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Saint Chewy*
> 
> Does anyone have any pictures of the Enthoo Pro M with a 280mm radiator in the front?


Here's some Pro M's from PCPartPicker with H115i's:

https://pcpartpicker.com/b/m8FdnQ

https://pcpartpicker.com/b/Y8hqqs

https://pcpartpicker.com/b/DQtJ7P

https://pcpartpicker.com/b/73Cbt6

https://pcpartpicker.com/b/Xdpbt6

https://pcpartpicker.com/b/4nZ8TW

https://pcpartpicker.com/b/NgVYcf

That should get you started. ;-)


----------



## Saint Chewy

Cool thank you! This picture pretty much confirms what I was looking at unfortunately https://cdn.pcpartpicker.com/static/forever/images/userbuild/185904.c832427731c4b30917fde03a8c0c7389.1600.jpg


----------



## RXWX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zeddicus*
> 
> Just got the Elite. Love it so far. Does any one have any questions?


Hi! I'd like to know if there's a way to install 2 or more reservoirs? Thanks!


----------



## Zeddicus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RXWX*
> 
> Hi! I'd like to know if there's a way to install 2 or more reservoirs? Thanks!


Yes you can. There is also 2 pump brackets that can be moved to any 120mm fan mount location. Here is a pic from the user manual.


----------



## Zeddicus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> I'd like to know how restrictive the various rad/fan placements are and which layout you decide is optimal.
> 
> Also, I don't know if it would be possible, but could you get a shot of the top from directly above?


Here is a pic with the top off.


----------



## exploiteddna

can the enthoo pro m or the p400s fit a 360 rad in the front without removing the 2 hdd cages on the bottom front of the case? I know the ODD cage will need to be removed on the enthoo pro m


----------



## RXWX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zeddicus*
> 
> Yes you can. There is also 2 pump brackets that can be moved to any 120mm fan mount location. Here is a pic from the user manual.


is there any way to mount the reservoirs (specially huge ones) on other spots of the case? and how would you route the tubing on the bottom compartment with a 480 mm radiator? another question : is there any other use for that mini itx spot and what about the second batch of usp 3.0 connectors? finally, does the type-c connector on usb 3.1 speeds? and how would you route the front hdmi port and is there route to do it? i know, lots of question, interesting case, but too overpriced.


----------



## Splash74

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RXWX*
> 
> is there any way to mount the reservoirs (specially huge ones) on other spots of the case? and how would you route the tubing on the bottom compartment with a 480 mm radiator? another question : is there any other use for that mini itx spot and what about the second batch of usp 3.0 connectors? finally, does the type-c connector on usb 3.1 speeds? and how would you route the front hdmi port and is there route to do it? i know, lots of question, interesting case, but too overpriced.


Well yeah it costs alot of money but if you compare the Elite to Caselabs its cheaper then many of their cases so ithats why I bought an Elite it cost less then the Magnum MN8 with top pedestal with some extra brackets for radiators it ended up 1100 $

And let's face it the Elite vs any Caselabs case conserning design its clear to me Elite is the winner and watercooling on same lvl as some popular Caselabs cases.

So no it's not overpriced it's a personal choice.


----------



## MrAgapiGC

I do own the p400 and yes you are correct dust will get in. is a beautiful case, but sucks that area. I ask around and suppose that a top 280 rad fits using a AIO like the kraken, in my case using GSkill ram. I do not understant the why since the evolve tg and pro m have the same internal layout. the down side of the P400 I can not see the Maximus iX logo cause the back fan. I am so torn out with that. I am thinking getting a new case but .... I do not know with one. pro m was my target, and the evolve also with the top mount mod. but in here no one have a CNC machine... how to make a push pull with the 115i?


----------



## RXWX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Splash74*
> 
> Well yeah it costs alot of money but if you compare the Elite to Caselabs its cheaper then many of their cases so ithats why I bought an Elite it cost less then the Magnum MN8 with top pedestal with some extra brackets for radiators it ended up 1100 $
> 
> And let's face it the Elite vs any Caselabs case conserning design its clear to me Elite is the winner and watercooling on same lvl as some popular Caselabs cases.
> 
> So no it's not overpriced it's a personal choice.


what about the HP OMEN X Chassis? 699$









http://www.legitreviews.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/08/hp-omen-wiring.jpg


----------



## paskowitz

@ciarlatano trigger warning














A nice build aesthetically at least.


----------



## redserv

Nice video, I am doing a hardline Petg custom loop for the first time on my enthoo primo this should help.


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrAgapiGC*
> 
> I do own the p400 and yes you are correct dust will get in. is a beautiful case, but sucks that area. I ask around and suppose that a top 280 rad fits using a AIO like the kraken, in my case using GSkill ram. I do not understant the why since the evolve tg and pro m have the same internal layout. the down side of the P400 I can not see the Maximus iX logo cause the back fan. I am so torn out with that. I am thinking getting a new case but .... I do not know with one. pro m was my target, and the evolve also with the top mount mod. but in here no one have a CNC machine... how to make a push pull with the 115i?


Actually the internal layout of the P400, Evolv and Pro M are similar but not exact. Both the Evolv and Pro M have more internal space above the motherboard, they also both have slide out radiator brackets that offset the radiator away from the motherboard. Both are listed as supporting top mounted radiators while the P400 is not.


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *redserv*
> 
> Nice video, I am doing a hardline Petg custom loop for the first time on my enthoo primo this should help.


Don't use his fans or radiators though.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rfarmer*
> 
> Actually the internal layout of the P400, Evolv and Pro M are similar but not exact. Both the Evolv and Pro M have more internal space above the motherboard, they also both have slide out radiator brackets that offset the radiator away from the motherboard. Both are listed as supporting top mounted radiators while the P400 is not.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrAgapiGC*
> 
> I do own the p400 and yes you are correct dust will get in. is a beautiful case, but sucks that area. I ask around and suppose that a top 280 rad fits using a AIO like the kraken, in my case using GSkill ram. I do not understant the why since the evolve tg and pro m have the same internal layout. the down side of the P400 I can not see the Maximus iX logo cause the back fan. I am so torn out with that. I am thinking getting a new case but .... I do not know with one. pro m was my target, and the evolve also with the top mount mod. but in here no one have a CNC machine... how to make a push pull with the 115i?


What rfarmer said.








While the internal layout may look similar at a glance, the P400, Evolv ATX and Pro M all have different dimensions and clearances.

What you are doing is like over a subdivision at 20,000 feet and saying all the houses look the same. Get up close and you will find out they are very different.


----------



## junneh

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Saint Chewy*
> 
> Thats what it seems like? My original plan was to put it in the front. I think it looks better that way
> 
> EDIT:So I just checked it again. You can fit 2 140mm in the front on the outside frame. However on the inside 2 140mm will not fit unless you remove the HDD cage. The top part of the cage is blocking the last part of the holes to screw in. Now I do know for sure on Phanteks' site that it says that a 280mm radiator will fit and it doesnt mention having to remove the HDD cage except for a 360mm radiator.
> 
> Unfortunately I still have a HDD to hold all of my media so I cant really build it with out it


In the PRO M or EVOLV ATX you can use a HDD and a 280 in the front. behind the hdd cages there is another mounting point for hdd. U will have to buy the phanteks hdd bracket tho as this does not come included. (or be like me and put the hdd on a piece of foam behind







)

Also, if u are prepared to drill in the case, a 280 rad and the psu cover intact, with the original HDD cage is possible. (atleast in physical size my h110 will fit the screws just dont line up with the holes







) U can only mount the rad by 6 screws tho , and the top 2 fan screws of the top fan will only be attached to the rad, not the case. Looking into doing this myself soon, as it just looks better.


----------



## Saint Chewy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *junneh*
> 
> In the PRO M or EVOLV ATX you can use a HDD and a 280 in the front. behind the hdd cages there is another mounting point for hdd. U will have to buy the phanteks hdd bracket tho as this does not come included. (or be like me and put the hdd on a piece of foam behind
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )
> 
> Also, if u are prepared to drill in the case, a 280 rad and the psu cover intact, with the original HDD cage is possible. (atleast in physical size my h110 will fit the screws just dont line up with the holes
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ) U can only mount the rad by 6 screws tho , and the top 2 fan screws of the top fan will only be attached to the rad, not the case. Looking into doing this myself soon, as it just looks better.


Are you talking about in the basement or up on top right next to the fans?


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zeddicus*
> 
> Here is a pic with the top off.


I thought so. Phanteks changed the top rad mounting system. THIS is what the next Evolv should have. They ditch the cross bars and made the rad tray mount from the top. Vastly more space efficient. Also, the rail layout is improved, now with a uniform pattern.


----------



## exploiteddna

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PureBlackFire*
> 
> you want an Enthoo Luxe or Evolv ATX, simple as that.


in your opinion, what does the luxe offer that the Pro does not, in terms of what I'm looking for


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *michaelrw*
> 
> in your opinion, what does the luxe offer that the Pro does not, in terms of what I'm looking for


2 SSD brackets (Pro has 1), better dust protection on the front panel and a more minimalist look.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> @ciarlatano trigger warning
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A nice build aesthetically at least.


I have few triggers left. I just shake my head a lot and marvel at "Idiocracy" winding up being more prophetic than "Metropolis" was.


----------



## exploiteddna

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PureBlackFire*
> 
> 2 SSD brackets (Pro has 1), better dust protection on the front panel and a more minimalist look.


honestly, if I knew that a 360 could fit into the front of the Eclipse, while also keeping the 2 HDD trays at the bottom front, then I'd probably go down that road. but, i havent been able to confirm this yet. phanteks advertises a 360 will fit, but based on the photos, it appears those HDD cages may be in the way


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *michaelrw*
> 
> honestly, if I knew that a 360 could fit into the front of the Eclipse, while also keeping the 2 HDD trays at the bottom front, then I'd probably go down that road. but, i havent been able to confirm this yet. phanteks advertises a 360 will fit, but based on the photos, it appears those HDD cages may be in the way


cannot. in the eclipse using a 360 rad means losing every possible 3.5" hard drive mouint. in the Pro M and Evolv ATX it means having to buy a sold separate bracket that let's you mount only a single 3.5" hard drive if you uses thin enough radiator setup. no idea why they didn't just design the bottom hdd mounts to slide or be moved closer to the psu. plenty of room.


----------



## Zeddicus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RXWX*
> 
> is there any way to mount the reservoirs (specially huge ones) on other spots of the case? and how would you route the tubing on the bottom compartment with a 480 mm radiator? another question : is there any other use for that mini itx spot and what about the second batch of usp 3.0 connectors? finally, does the type-c connector on usb 3.1 speeds? and how would you route the front hdmi port and is there route to do it? i know, lots of question, interesting case, but too overpriced.


I'll get some pics together and try to answer/explain some of these questions later this week. My wife has been sick with the flu this weekend so I didn't have time. Sorry.


----------



## exploiteddna

what are your thoughts on
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PureBlackFire*
> 
> cannot. in the eclipse using a 360 rad means losing every possible 3.5" hard drive mouint. in the Pro M and Evolv ATX it means having to buy a sold separate bracket that let's you mount only a single 3.5" hard drive if you uses thin enough radiator setup. no idea why they didn't just design the bottom hdd mounts to slide or be moved closer to the psu. plenty of room.


thats really unfortunate because i really like the white/black version of the eclipse, with the white PSU shroud... oh well. I'm thinking I may attempt the Pro M, with the 360 in the top, the two HDDs in the bottom front, and 1 SSD in the provided SSD cage (can buy another one of those for my second ssd, if needed.. i currently only use 1 ssd, but would like to have the ability to add another in the future). This is the rad I've currently got, which isnt thick at all. So, I think this plan would work.. then the only thing I'd need to make sure I have is a way to mount my pump/res, which shouldnt be too difficult.
After my initial post, I started to realize how I don't care for optical drive bays on the exterior of the case, since I no longer use any. So, the fewer the better. This is why I'm starting to consider the mid tower size over the full.. if it's feasible, which I think it is. Do you agree?


----------



## RXWX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zeddicus*
> 
> Here is a pic with the top off.


is it possible to do push-pull config on the elite?


----------



## RXWX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zeddicus*
> 
> I'll get some pics together and try to answer/explain some of these questions later this week. My wife has been sick with the flu this weekend so I didn't have time. Sorry.


be well. first priorities takes center.


----------



## Zeddicus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RXWX*
> 
> is it possible to do push-pull config on the elite?


Yes. I would say there's a good 2.5 inches of room between the top on the mobo and bottom the fans. I have a EK-CoolStream CE 420 rad that will be going in here at some point(end of April). It's also possible to do push-pull on the front of the case as well. As a side note. I think Phanteks did a fantastic job with this case. The price has to do with insane build quality, attention to detail and the case it ships in. Which I don't think people have even seen unless you've watched some youtube vids. Here is one from HardwareCanucks 



. I'm guessing this thing has to cost them a couple hundred dollars all by it's self. So if Phanteks can figure out how to make it cheaper or ship it in more standard packaging. It should bring down the cost. Here are some pic for reference.


----------



## Splash74

The Elite build im doing at the moment is a 4 HWLabs nemesis GTR 480 radiators with corsair ml120pro fans .

Will be fun to see the cooling performance on the rig when it's up and running.


----------



## nycgtr

I envy you guys with the elite. I can't do that size case anymore. If tri sli was still a thing, I be all for it.


----------



## geriatricpollywog

I would have a hard time throwing away that box. They should ship it inside something more useful, like Phanteks-branded luggage.


----------



## TheShark

Hey guys first time posting here, as i need some help with my new phanteks Enthoo Evolv atx and since you guys seems the most qualified to do so i ask you here. If its the wrong thread to do so please move it to the correct forum.
I got some problem with the airflow as its insufficient, i have tried almost everything and the cause to this seems to be the front panel, which its to obstructive for the fans. When i remove it the temps for my GPU can drop up to 8 degrees and i have tried with both the Ml 140 pro and the stock fans, and neither seems to give the airflow that the reviewers and other people are getting.
Some specs:
msi x99a gaming 7
Intel core [email protected] with 1.225v
Kraken x62 with stock fans at silent operation
Asus Strix [email protected] with no extra voltage and sat to auto in msi afterburner for the fans
2 ssd from samsung
16gb hyperx predator [email protected]
phanteks Enthoo Evolv atx
Fans at 50% up to 75% when cpu reaches 60

I have tried almost every fan configuration, with the rad in front and all 3 fans at exhaust (which gave much cooler cpu temps but increases gpu temperature atleast 2 degrees). i have also tried pluggig up the rad bracket to see if it was the hot air that was circulating but that did not to a whole lot.

So my question is, what have you guys done to improve the airflow, my problem isn't the cpu temp but the gpu temp, which are a lot hotter than in my old case (cosmos se). What should i do so i keep the aesthetics and keeping the noise low.


----------



## TheShark

quick edit the gpu reaches 84 in OW (I use it to bench) and gpu reaches low 60'es


----------



## geriatricpollywog

New cables and pastel fluid


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheShark*
> 
> Hey guys first time posting here, as i need some help with my new phanteks Enthoo Evolv atx and since you guys seems the most qualified to do so i ask you here. If its the wrong thread to do so please move it to the correct forum.
> I got some problem with the airflow as its insufficient, i have tried almost everything and the cause to this seems to be the front panel, which its to obstructive for the fans. When i remove it the temps for my GPU can drop up to 8 degrees and i have tried with both the Ml 140 pro and the stock fans, and neither seems to give the airflow that the reviewers and other people are getting.
> Some specs:
> msi x99a gaming 7
> Intel core [email protected] with 1.225v
> Kraken x62 with stock fans at silent operation
> Asus Strix [email protected] with no extra voltage and sat to auto in msi afterburner for the fans
> 2 ssd from samsung
> 16gb hyperx predator [email protected]
> phanteks Enthoo Evolv atx
> Fans at 50% up to 75% when cpu reaches 60
> 
> I have tried almost every fan configuration, with the rad in front and all 3 fans at exhaust (which gave much cooler cpu temps but increases gpu temperature atleast 2 degrees). i have also tried pluggig up the rad bracket to see if it was the hot air that was circulating but that did not to a whole lot.
> 
> So my question is, what have you guys done to improve the airflow, my problem isn't the cpu temp but the gpu temp, which are a lot hotter than in my old case (cosmos se). What should i do so i keep the aesthetics and keeping the noise low.


It is easy to test if front panel is too restrictive (but it isn't). Run system without front panel and see if temps are lower.

What is fan and component placement?

Where is radiator mounted?
If it is in front it is pre-heating the airflow to GpU.

3x exhaust means 2x in top? DId you block all opening except the fans to separate the air in top from motherboard compartment? Did you try running with top cover off?

ASUS GeForce GTX 980 Ti STRIX is 250W TDP with 3x fans. My guess is case fans need to be running faster than 60% to supply it with cool air.

You might find "Ways to Better Cooling" linked in my sig of interest. 1st post is index, click on topics to see them. 5th is a good place to start.


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0451*
> 
> New cables and pastel fluid
> 
> 
> Spoiler: pic


Looks really nice, but why the radiator sandwich in the back? Its already been proven that the gains are very little at best and most of the time its worse than just running a single radiator.


----------



## geriatricpollywog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gilles3000*
> 
> [/SPOILER]
> 
> Looks really nice, but why the radiator sandwich in the back? Its already been proven that the gains are very little at best and most of the time its worse than just running a single radiator.


I don't think anybody has proven anything about how a radiator Big Mac works. I can't imagine it does much harm since it pushes a lot of air out the back of the case.


----------



## TheShark

Well if i remove the front panel the temp falls by 8 on the gpu, so i will say it is for my system for some reason. and i got the stock fans in the front and rad in the top.


----------



## junneh

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Saint Chewy*
> 
> Are you talking about in the basement or up on top right next to the fans?


In the bottom, hidden under the psu shroud. Roughly behind where the phanteks logo sits on the side, there is mounting pins for hdd there.

If u want to do it properly u will need this thing:
http://www.phanteks.com/PH-HDDKT.html

and u can see the mounting pins here (in the middle of psu shroud, right of the hdd cage, beneath front io cabling. (the 4 rubber pins like the ssd mounts)


----------



## hurricane28

Finally my new parts arrived but if i am honest, i am not that pleased with them...

The parts that were replacing the crooked parts are even more crooked... I can't believe this.. never had this with Corsair cases so there must be something wrong with Phanteks's quality control..

I am going to contact them again and see what they have to say about this. I mean, i am buying an quality case, shouldn't i expect similar build quality?


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheShark*
> 
> Well if i remove the front panel the temp falls by 8 on the gpu, so i will say it is for my system for some reason. and i got the stock fans in the front and rad in the top.


I will assume your 50% and 75% are PWM signal going to Phaneks PWM controlled hub? What is the fan speed in rpm at 50% and 75%? Have you increased the intake fan speed? Most people do not realize now dramatically a fan's airflow and pressure ratings drop when they are slowed down. to 50-75% speed.

PH-TC14S stock fan is the PH-F140HP_II, which I am told is basically the same fan used in new Phanteks cases that do not have the PH-F140SP fans.

You can see it's open airflow drops from 79.9cfm to 39.8cfm. This is with no restirctions. The fan's ability to overcome restiction drops from 2.286 to 0.508mm H2O. Combine the restriction of just he grill and the 39.8cfm will drop to 25-30cfm, .. and with front cover on it drops even more.

|Here you can see in the graphs below how as restriction (pressure) rises airflow (cfm) falls.

http://www.coolingtechnique.com/recensioni/air-cooling/dissipatori/1581-recensione-phanteks-ph-tc12ls-e-ph-tc14s.html?start=5


----------



## TheShark

its running at 750 to 1000, and its controlled by the motherboad, because i don't trust the pwm controller. and its all 3 that are running at that speed

So you are saying to me i should run them all at 100%, to get the airflow i need?


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheShark*
> 
> its running at 750 to 1000, and its controlled by the motherboad, because i don't trust the pwm controller. and its all 3 that are running at that speed
> 
> So you are saying to me i should run them all at 100%, to get the airflow i need?


No idea why you don't trust the fan hub, but that's your choice to make.

It is best to quote the person you are replying to. That way it's much easier for others reading this thread to understand what is being discussed.

I am making suggestions and giving you explanations and data so you can understand my suggestions. I am not saying to run the case fans at 100%, but to increase their speed and see what the temperatures do. I also suggested you read 5th post in 'Ways to Better Cooling' .. and I don't think you have .. because if you have read it you know how to monitor case airflow temperature to components, how and why case fan speed need to be adjusted to supply needed airflow to components as well as other information. I will and do spend a lot of time helping people with cooling and airflow. The key word is 'helping'. You need to learn and do the work yourself, including making the decisions as to what fan speed you need to cool the components you want cooled.


----------



## ITAngel

I use the fan hub works perfectly well with high end static fans. All six of them running of that little hub which have not giving me any issues yet that I have seen.


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> Finally my new parts arrived but if i am honest, i am not that pleased with them...
> 
> The parts that were replacing the crooked parts are even more crooked... I can't believe this.. never had this with Corsair cases so there must be something wrong with Phanteks's quality control..
> 
> I am going to contact them again and see what they have to say about this. I mean, i am buying an quality case, shouldn't i expect similar build quality?


Could your chassis be crooked and not the parts?


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> Could your chassis be crooked and not the parts?


Of course it can but that's not the case here.

I posted some pictures of it in my previous post. I will post some of the new parts later this day to compare.


----------



## TheShark

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> No idea why you don't trust the fan hub, but that's your choice to make.
> 
> It is best to quote the person you are replying to. That way it's much easier for others reading this thread to understand what is being discussed.
> 
> I am making suggestions and giving you explanations and data so you can understand my suggestions. I am not saying to run the case fans at 100%, but to increase their speed and see what the temperatures do. I also suggested you read 5th post in 'Ways to Better Cooling' .. and I don't think you have .. because if you have read it you know how to monitor case airflow temperature to components, how and why case fan speed need to be adjusted to supply needed airflow to components as well as other information. I will and do spend a lot of time helping people with cooling and airflow. The key word is 'helping'. You need to learn and do the work yourself, including making the decisions as to what fan speed you need to cool the components you want cooled.


I wasn't trying to be rude and i did read your post about the cooling. But i am writing that the front panel is restricting the performance in my case, and thats why i'm writing here to see if any others had the issue and what they did to get better airflow.
and the reason i dont trust the pwm fan hub is that if i set the fans at 50% with the fan hub, it's about 100 rpm over what my motherboard reads when plugged directly into the motherboad


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheShark*
> 
> I wasn't trying to be rude and i did read your post about the cooling. But i am writing that the front panel is restricting the performance in my case, and thats why i'm writing here to see if any others had the issue and what they did to get better airflow.
> and the reason i dont trust the pwm fan hub is that if i set the fans at 50% with the fan hub, it's about 100 rpm over what my motherboard reads when plugged directly into the motherboad


thats called variance its a part of all fans hubs and headers...nearly everything electrical is rated + or - an amount to account for differences in motherboards and manufacturing...software monitoring isnt totally accurate anyways...id wager your issue is the voltage controlled pwm on the hub isnt exact i would just up it a bit and use the hub


----------



## hurricane28

Here are some pictures i took from the new components that should be better than the ones that came with the case...

As you can see the metal mesh doesn't even fit around the plastic frame..


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!











Now this is from my Corsair obsidian 650 D front mesh:


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!








But wait, there is even more..

This is the front IO panel, and yet again its even more crooked than the one that came included with the case..


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







This is a picture of the mesh that came included with the case installed:


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







This is the new one:


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!








You tell me, am i really that nitpicking or is this unacceptable? I mean, i buy an quality product and i expect it to be quality but its far from it.. now if this was a case of "only" 80 euro's/dollar's i could expect something like this but i payed 175 euro's for it which is an premium price... I am far from happy with Phanteks at this moment...


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheShark*
> 
> I wasn't trying to be rude and i did read your post about the cooling. But i am writing that the front panel is restricting the performance in my case, and thats why i'm writing here to see if any others had the issue and what they did to get better airflow.
> and the reason i dont trust the pwm fan hub is that if i set the fans at 50% with the fan hub, it's about 100 rpm over what my motherboard reads when plugged directly into the motherboad


I did not consider your reply rude, not at all. All I am saying is I'm willing to help you, but you have to learn how to do it yourself. I'm not doing the work for you.









Of course the front is restricting airflow. All cases with grills, filters, etc. restrict airflow. The truth is the front of the Evolv flows air as well as most cases .. better than some cases. While the gap around the case looks like it's not much vent area, the fact that there is no grill in this vent means the entire area is flowing air. A typical front case vent's grille blocks more than half the airflow area, sometimes even more. Combine this with the turbulence these grilles create and airflow is restricted even more. But that is not the only reason you are not getting enough airflow. All you need to do to get more airflow is increase the fan speed a few hundred rpm.

When you plug the fan into a 3-pin fan header the voltage is not the same as on the PWM hub.
I will assume you are using a PWM fan header to control the fan hub and powering it with the PSU. The hub uses the PWM signal to adjust the voltage going to the fan. The voltage going to the fan/s changes depending on how many amps the fans plugged into the hub are using.


That is why the rpm is different when using the fan hub instead of a fan header..


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> Here are some pictures i took from the new components that should be better than the ones that came with the case...
> 
> As you can see the metal mesh doesn't even fit around the plastic frame..
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now this is from my Corsair obsidian 650 D front mesh:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But wait, there is even more..
> 
> This is the front IO panel, and yet again its even more crooked than the one that came included with the case..
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is a picture of the mesh that came included with the case installed:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the new one:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You tell me, am i really that nitpicking or is this unacceptable? I mean, i buy an quality product and i expect it to be quality but its far from it.. now if this was a case of "only" 80 euro's/dollar's i could expect something like this but i payed 175 euro's for it which is an premium price... I am far from happy with Phanteks at this moment...


that sucks. your parts are clearly warped. I just took photos of my phanteks and corsair removable mesh parts. none of mine are warped, but one corner of the phanteks luxe mesh cover is short on the frame. my corsair mesh is broken up because the early runs of the 500R/400R were plagued with quality control issues.


http://imgur.com/9u5Qq


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> Here are some pictures i took from the new components that should be better than the ones that came with the case...
> 
> As you can see the metal mesh doesn't even fit around the plastic frame..
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now this is from my Corsair obsidian 650 D front mesh:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But wait, there is even more..
> 
> This is the front IO panel, and yet again its even more crooked than the one that came included with the case..
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is a picture of the mesh that came included with the case installed:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the new one:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You tell me, am i really that nitpicking or is this unacceptable? I mean, i buy an quality product and i expect it to be quality but its far from it.. now if this was a case of "only" 80 euro's/dollar's i could expect something like this but i payed 175 euro's for it which is an premium price... I am far from happy with Phanteks at this moment...


Personally I wouldn't care, but I don't think you are being unreasonable. It's pretty clearly bent. About all I can say is call Phanteks, be polite but firm, and try again.


----------



## Crowgasm

Quick question: Is anyone aware of a vendor that sells a custom side panel with glass or acrylic for the Phanteks Enthoo Primo? I've found one but it requires removal of the 5.25" bay to fit. Any other options?


----------



## dlewbell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Crowgasm*
> 
> Quick question: Is anyone aware of a vendor that sells a custom side panel with glass or acrylic for the Phanteks Enthoo Primo? I've found one but it requires removal of the 5.25" bay to fit. Any other options?


Mnpctech offers an acrylic panel in 2 styles. You will not be able to install 140mm fans in the bottom fan bracket, but your 5.25" bays will still function. https://mnpctech.com/phanteks-case-mods/phanteks-enthoo-primo-clear-replacement-side-panel/


----------



## paskowitz

Don't know if it is going to work out or not but I am having my Evolv ATX top panel CNC'd for better airflow. IF, and at this point I do mean IF, it works out it is possible the shop will be able to offer this as a service for those interested. I am NOT making any promises but watch this space.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> Don't know if it is going to work out or not but I am having my Evolv ATX top panel CNC'd for better airflow. IF, and at this point I do mean IF, it works out it is possible the shop will be able to offer this as a service for those interested. I am NOT making any promises but watch this space.


Definitely keep us posted.


----------



## LiamG6

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> Don't know if it is going to work out or not but I am having my Evolv ATX top panel CNC'd for better airflow. IF, and at this point I do mean IF, it works out it is possible the shop will be able to offer this as a service for those interested. I am NOT making any promises but watch this space.


got a design to show us? I've tried to come up with something elegant that fits with the case but it just never looks as good as the closed top/front.


----------



## d0mmie

I love my new Phanteks Enthoo Luxe Tempered Glass! This is the best thing I've done in a long time. I've been a Fractal user for a few years, but their hard drive cages are not optimal when disk drives cause vibrations. My only problem with the Phanteks case is that the LED controller seem to have a bug where if I pick the white color, it will fade into an ugly lime color after a few minutes, except the lowest part of the front panel. Haven't noticed it with the rest of the colors, but couldn't be bothered to send the entire case back.

A few pictures:


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LiamG6*
> 
> got a design to show us? I've tried to come up with something elegant that fits with the case but it just never looks as good as the closed top/front.


I was thinking something like the elite. But yeah I have the same problem. It's the damn power button not letting me do even, centered spacing.


----------



## III-Method-III

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *d0mmie*
> 
> I love my new Phanteks Enthoo Luxe Tempered Glass! This is the best thing I've done in a long time. I've been a Fractal user for a few years, but their hard drive cages are not optimal when disk drives cause vibrations. My only problem with the Phanteks case is that the LED controller seem to have a bug where if I pick the white color, it will fade into an ugly lime color after a few minutes, except the lowest part of the front panel. Haven't noticed it with the rest of the colors, but couldn't be bothered to send the entire case back.


Hi Dommie - that looks really nice.

I am currently stuck between getting the Evolv or the Luxe (tempered for both)

My reasoning (after lots of reading, seeing pics and chats) for wanting to plug for the Luxe is that people seem to find the airflow out the top of the Evolv to be less than great. I see folks like Doyll reminding them to block up the parts of the top that dont have fans in so the warm air off a rad up there doesnt re-circulate, i see people getting the tops CNC'd out....it just seems like a design flaw to me with that rail system.

So the Luxe seems to solve the airflow issues, has more room for a rad up top (if thats what you want to do - tho im seeing Youtube channels measuring internal GPU tems showing that front mounted rads are better for GPU tems (where the GPU blows into the case) that top mounted rads)). My issue is I really dont much like the front look of the luxe. Expecially those 51/4 drive bays.....why oh why couldnt they have blanked them out?

Do you like those?


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *III-Method-III*
> 
> Hi Dommie - that looks really nice.
> 
> I am currently stuck between getting the Evolv or the Luxe (tempered for both)
> 
> My reasoning (after lots of reading, seeing pics and chats) for wanting to plug for the Luxe is that people seem to find the airflow out the top of the Evolv to be less than great. I see folks like Doyll reminding them to block up the parts of the top that dont have fans in so the warm air off a rad up there doesnt re-circulate, i see people getting the tops CNC'd out....it just seems like a design flaw to me with that rail system.
> 
> So the Luxe seems to solve the airflow issues, has more room for a rad up top (if thats what you want to do - tho im seeing Youtube channels measuring internal GPU tems showing that front mounted rads are better for GPU tems (where the GPU blows into the case) that top mounted rads)). My issue is I really dont much like the front look of the luxe. Expecially those 51/4 drive bays.....why oh why couldnt they have blanked them out?
> 
> Do you like those?


In a sense there are no free lunches. The Evolv has more restrictive airflow, but is quieter and so on. Also, IMO the airflow issues can be remedied in the Evolv without permanent mods. Extending the front panel with longer screws, resting the top panel on the clips, sealing off the rad bracket and proper fan set up are all easy, cheap and highly effective.

Also most of the people you see with airflow issues have a custom loop, a front mounted AIO should pose no issues.


----------



## III-Method-III

All very sensible comments Paskowitz - thanks

Unfortunately you are now making me Evolve or Luxe decision harder lol. Damnit.

If I knew the Evolv had no material airflow issues i would probably just plug for it as it looks nicer than the Luxe IMHO...A front mounted AIO (im thinking the Kraken X62) should be fine on the CPU. After lots of chats I just cant be bothered to water cool the GPU. Ill just get a good quality 1080 with 2 or 3 fans (MSI/EVGA) and let the case airflow shift its heat

I almost sound like Im making sense. Im sure someone will see the word "AIO" and rip a strip off me though lol


----------



## nycgtr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *III-Method-III*
> 
> All very sensible comments Paskowitz - thanks
> 
> Unfortunately you are now making me Evolve or Luxe decision harder lol. Damnit.
> 
> If I knew the Evolv had no material airflow issues i would probably just plug for it as it looks nicer than the Luxe IMHO...A front mounted AIO (im thinking the Kraken X62) should be fine on the CPU. After lots of chats I just cant be bothered to water cool the GPU. Ill just get a good quality 1080 with 2 or 3 fans (MSI/EVGA) and let the case airflow shift its heat
> 
> I almost sound like Im making sense. Im sure someone will see the word "AIO" and rip a strip off me though lol


I was deciding between the evolv and lux tg as well. Only reason I didn't get the luxe was because I have a primo and I don't want 2 cases that look that similar. Having had the evolv for a month now, I would get the Luxe. If I could do over, I would pick the luxe even though it would be like having a smaller primo.


----------



## III-Method-III

Thanks nycgtr

What was it that you didnt like or get on with in the Evolv case then? What has living with it for a month made you realise?

Cheers


----------



## nycgtr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *III-Method-III*
> 
> Thanks nycgtr
> 
> What was it that you didnt like or get on with in the Evolv case then? What has living with it for a month made you realise?
> 
> Cheers


I am a watercooler. The evolv is a fussy case for watercooling. To cool efficiently I ended up not being able to use any of the rads I had before and get new ones. Airflow is the main problem. For the front I extended the mount by 4mm so the front intake is good, but the top exhaust is horrific. Sealing up the unused space on the rad mount plate helps but it's not enough. I am going to cut my top lid and add a dust filter. Also, I feel somethings should be easier to access. Stuff like the top atx 8pin connection. If you have anything on the top fans, etc. Your going to have to remove it to get at it. I feel like if the case was just 2-3 inches taller it would resolve all the issues with rads and be more accessible to work with in a fully built system. It's a gorgeous case and a shame they messed up on some small things. I feel the next revision of this case would be the most ideal. I think what really makes these cases stand out is really the glass and the finish. The luxe has a great finish and glass as well and the interior seems to be much more friendly and so is the airflow. I guess if I was building from dead scratch the evolv wouldn't be so bad. However, I have never had a case transplant cost me so much on top of the cost of the case.


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *III-Method-III*
> 
> All very sensible comments Paskowitz - thanks
> 
> Unfortunately you are now making me Evolve or Luxe decision harder lol. Damnit.
> 
> If I knew the Evolv had no material airflow issues i would probably just plug for it as it looks nicer than the Luxe IMHO...A front mounted AIO (im thinking the Kraken X62) should be fine on the CPU. After lots of chats I just cant be bothered to water cool the GPU. Ill just get a good quality 1080 with 2 or 3 fans (MSI/EVGA) and let the case airflow shift its heat
> 
> I almost sound like Im making sense. Im sure someone will see the word "AIO" and rip a strip off me though lol


I'm happy to help... by not making things easier









If you are going for an new NZXT unit, you are only a couple dollars away from a Swiftech H220 X2 (or Prestige) which will perform slightly better and offer the option for full loop expansion should you so choose. Not saying you _have_ to do they, but it's an option. The NZXT units look pretty sweet IMO.


----------



## III-Method-III

Yeah I came very close to the swiftech solution....but Im a whore for looks, and I personally dont really like how the swiftech units look with their res kinda sitting by the fans etc.

the NZXT looks lovely (to me) and unless the X62 leaks all over my stuff (cant rule it out, but equally havent heard of it happening either - unlike some other AIO's) and seems to performs very well in well constructed tests:

http://www.gamersnexus.net/hwreviews/2662-nzxt-kraken-x52-x62-x42-review-and-benchmarks-noise-temp?showall=1

So....im probably going to go for that and an air cooled GPU

Obviously Im planning a 1700x or 1800x Ryzen build....(i do a lot of video editing in Premiere and After Effects)


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *III-Method-III*
> 
> Yeah I came very close to the swiftech solution....but Im a whore for looks, and I personally dont really like how the swiftech units look with their res kinda sitting by the fans etc.
> 
> the NZXT looks lovely (to me) and unless the X62 leaks all over my stuff (cant rule it out, but equally havent heard of it happening either - unlike some other AIO's) and seems to performs very well in well constructed tests:
> 
> http://www.gamersnexus.net/hwreviews/2662-nzxt-kraken-x52-x62-x42-review-and-benchmarks-noise-temp?showall=1
> 
> So....im probably going to go for that and an air cooled GPU
> 
> Obviously Im planning a 1700x or 1800x Ryzen build....(i do a lot of video editing in Premiere and After Effects)


Yeah can't fault ya there. For GPUs I've found MSI to have good acoustics (although I'm not a fan of their looks). Don't forget there is always EVGAs Hybrid cards which when you replace the fan are super quiet under load.


----------



## III-Method-III

Given nycgtr's comments on his troubles with the Evolv...

I think ive made my mind up to go with the Luxe Tempered.

It would be nice to hear from d0mmie, to know what his thoughts are of the 51/4 drive bays on the front of the luxe....i wish they werent there....but how things look in the flesh may be a lot better than in phanteks pics on their site.

Id also like to know if the 51/4 bays can be removed and 3 x 140mm fans go in the front?


----------



## d0mmie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *III-Method-III*
> 
> Given nycgtr's comments on his troubles with the Evolv...
> 
> I think ive made my mind up to go with the Luxe Tempered.
> 
> It would be nice to hear from d0mmie, to know what his thoughts are of the 51/4 drive bays on the front of the luxe....i wish they werent there....but how things look in the flesh may be a lot better than in phanteks pics on their site.
> 
> Id also like to know if the 51/4 bays can be removed and 3 x 140mm fans go in the front?


I don't have an issue with the 5.25" drive bays. It looks decent to me, and they serve a purpose for me at least. Besides it's not like I spend all day looking at the front of my case, as it's seated on my floor









Edit: No you can only have 2 x 140mm fans in the front.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *III-Method-III*
> 
> Given nycgtr's comments on his troubles with the Evolv...
> 
> I think ive made my mind up to go with the Luxe Tempered.
> 
> It would be nice to hear from d0mmie, to know what his thoughts are of the 51/4 drive bays on the front of the luxe....i wish they werent there....but how things look in the flesh may be a lot better than in phanteks pics on their site.
> 
> Id also like to know if the 51/4 bays can be removed and 3 x 140mm fans go in the front?


If you go with the Luxe....the Swiftech H240-X2 (dual 140mm) fits like a glove up top and looks amazing in the case. No need to settle for a CLC.


----------



## nycgtr

5.25 bays although outdated are very versatile. If you choose to place a rad in the front, you can easily use that spot for your mechanical drives or pump or res or combo. The suggested locations for a reservoir on the luxe would be a problem for cards that are larger than reference.


----------



## Mischief27

I apologize if this has been asked before. I'm a noob at all of this.

As soon as my work bonus comes in, I plan on building my first pc. I was going to go with the Enthoo Evolv ATX glass, but just recently found out that front mounting a 280mm radiator would have me lose the bottom two 3.5 hdd bays. Is there are way around this that doesn't involve drilling new holes? I don't feel comfortable with that but I need the bays, or at least one. Is there anywhere else to put them or a work around?

If there isn't, my second case choice is the Eclipse p400s tempered glass version. Apparently this is a pretty new case and I'm having a hard time finding any reviews on it. I'm mainly going for an rgb build with intentions of putting AER fans in the top and rear exhaust with a kraken x62 in front.

I suppose another choice would be to just go with the Evolv and use the x52 instead, but I think the x62 has already been purchased for my birthday. Is there anyone that's played around with the new glass p400s? I honestly like the look of both cases and per my budget, I don't want to go over $200 US.

I appreciate any help!


----------



## ITAngel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mischief27*
> 
> I apologize if this has been asked before. I'm a noob at all of this.
> 
> As soon as my work bonus comes in, I plan on building my first pc. I was going to go with the Enthoo Evolv ATX glass, but just recently found out that front mounting a 280mm radiator would have me lose the bottom two 3.5 hdd bays. Is there are way around this that doesn't involve drilling new holes? I don't feel comfortable with that but I need the bays, or at least one. Is there anywhere else to put them or a work around?
> 
> If there isn't, my second case choice is the Eclipse p400s tempered glass version. Apparently this is a pretty new case and I'm having a hard time finding any reviews on it. I'm mainly going for an rgb build with intentions of putting AER fans in the top and rear exhaust with a kraken x62 in front.
> 
> I suppose another choice would be to just go with the Evolv and use the x52 instead, but I think the x62 has already been purchased for my birthday. Is there anyone that's played around with the new glass p400s? I honestly like the look of both cases and per my budget, I don't want to go over $200 US.
> 
> I appreciate any help!


Hi there and welcome!

I was looking around for one but seems all I find is Evolv and Pro M Tempered glass version reviews from youtube. I though I saw a Eclipse p400 review once maybe not.

I found this one here


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mischief27*
> 
> I apologize if this has been asked before. I'm a noob at all of this.
> 
> As soon as my work bonus comes in, I plan on building my first pc. I was going to go with the Enthoo Evolv ATX glass, but just recently found out that front mounting a 280mm radiator would have me lose the bottom two 3.5 hdd bays. Is there are way around this that doesn't involve drilling new holes? I don't feel comfortable with that but I need the bays, or at least one. Is there anywhere else to put them or a work around?
> 
> If there isn't, my second case choice is the Eclipse p400s tempered glass version. Apparently this is a pretty new case and I'm having a hard time finding any reviews on it. I'm mainly going for an rgb build with intentions of putting AER fans in the top and rear exhaust with a kraken x62 in front.
> 
> I suppose another choice would be to just go with the Evolv and use the x52 instead, but I think the x62 has already been purchased for my birthday. Is there anyone that's played around with the new glass p400s? I honestly like the look of both cases and per my budget, I don't want to go over $200 US.
> 
> I appreciate any help!


You could purchase a separate 3.5 HDD cage from Phanteks and mount 1 HDD, or do what I did... Line the floor with neoprene, put the HDDs in their cages, and then simply place them on the floor. Now I know what you are thinking... paskowitz... won't my hard drives flail around? Nope. Neoprene has a high surface tension and the drives will be so snug, that they are unlikely to move unless your case is in a car crash. You may be able to search for an image in the gallery or my profile.


----------



## Mischief27

Not a bad idea with the neoprene.







Thank you both for the help. I still have a week or so before I start buying, but right now it looks like the Eclipse may be winning.


----------



## Omie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *d0mmie*
> 
> Mine does that as well. I have a 360mm radiator in the top compartment and once I turn on the PC I get a few of those pops, nothing too serious though. I don't even notice it anymore


Oh ok. It's just the popping noises are really getting on my nerves. It seems to happen constantly now, and I have to wait like an hour after the computer is on for the noises to stop.

Do you know if it's a problem with the case or the radiator itself? I have a 280mm rad (H115i with its default stock fans replaced with 2x ML140 Pros).


----------



## RnRollie

It is air in the loop.
Try to raise the front (or the rear) of the case a bit by putting a book or something under its front (or rear) feet. It depends how your tubes are routed; but the idea is to have the ports/hoses a bit lower as the rest of the rad. This will help to dislodge some stubborn bubbles a bit faster. After a couple of hours running like that you can remove the book -after you've powered down of course.
The alternative to try would be to move the whole case slowly around in circles & figure 8s with the pump running.

If that doesnt help, RMA the btch and get a "real" watercooling loop that you can top up yourself









PS: I recommend War & Peace, doesn't matter if its hard- or softcover.


----------



## w-moffatt

Hey all,

Been a while on since i've been on here but ill be becoming a regular. Doing my first rig build in over 5 years and have landed on this case. Wanted to do a budget gaming build and this case was great value and super clean. Rig specs below, images to come when build is done!
Going for a red black theme, debating on RGB case lighting but may end up with some aftermarket RGB case fans to suit the build as RGB strips can look super tacky.

Phanteks Eclipse P400S Tempered Glass Black Red
ASRock B250 Gaming K4 Motherboard
Intel Core i5 7400
Corsair Hydro Series H60 120mm AIO cooler
MSI NVIDIA GeForce GTX 1070 8GB Gaming X
Corsair Vengeance LPX CMK16GX4M2A2133C13R 16GB (2x8GB) DDR4 Red
Lots of drives (in external closure)

Cheers,
Will


----------



## ITAngel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mischief27*
> 
> Not a bad idea with the neoprene.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thank you both for the help. I still have a week or so before I start buying, but right now it looks like the Eclipse may be winning.


Honestly I feel the Eclipse is a really nice case. I only went the Enthoo Pro route because I needed HDD slots right away. if not the Eclipse seems like a really nice option for the money.


----------



## nycgtr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ITAngel*
> 
> Honestly I feel the Eclipse is a really nice case. I only went the Enthoo Pro route because I needed HDD slots right away. if not the Eclipse seems like a really nice option for the money.


You made the better choice not just for the HDD but most importantly air flow and future expansion options.


----------



## ITAngel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nycgtr*
> 
> You made the better choice not just for the HDD but most importantly air flow and future expansion options.


I must agree with you that also was a factor in my decision. Being that I had built into this case before I knew how to route things and how easy it is to work in it. Sometimes I wish I got a Luxe but I have not had issues with air flow in this case yet and I can keep the fans running on low quiet operation when recording.


----------



## iVVChewy9141VVi

So me and my mom are building a sick gaming PC. We have the Tempered glass Evolv ATX. With all the fans we got the Lamptron CM615 which is a fan controller and we are going to make like a little acrylic box for it and put it inside the case more like a small bay for it that will sit above the removeable plate that is above the HDD cages

The CM615 utilizes a USB 2.0 header which lets you change all the settings inside windows 7. People have told use about the Aquacomputer things but we got a discount on the CM615 so we wanted to add alittle bling and something you can look at during your game and usage and everything like that.


----------



## ZippyO

Does anyone of you have experience with Phanteks sleeved cable-extensions?
They are pretty cheap compared to other sleeved cable-extensions from cablemod for example. Phanteks is not really known for "cheap" stuff, atleast considering the quality, right?


----------



## pez

I had white ones in my Pro M and loved them. Came with combs, (I'm pretty sure) were a plastic/mesh sleeving and were heatshrinkless. Would definitely recommend for the price.


----------



## OneFunGenesis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZippyO*
> 
> Does anyone of you have experience with Phanteks sleeved cable-extensions?
> They are pretty cheap compared to other sleeved cable-extensions from cablemod for example. Phanteks is not really known for "cheap" stuff, atleast considering the quality, right?


I have the black ones right now. Love them. Came with cable combs although I had already made my own custom ones.


----------



## Scotty99

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *w-moffatt*
> 
> Hey all,
> 
> Been a while on since i've been on here but ill be becoming a regular. Doing my first rig build in over 5 years and have landed on this case. Wanted to do a budget gaming build and this case was great value and super clean. Rig specs below, images to come when build is done!
> Going for a red black theme, debating on RGB case lighting but may end up with some aftermarket RGB case fans to suit the build as RGB strips can look super tacky.
> 
> Phanteks P400s Black/Red edition
> MSI 970A carbon mobo
> FX-8320
> Corsair Hydro Series H60 120mm AIO cooler
> MSI NVIDIA GeForce GTX 1070 8GB Gaming X
> Kingston HyperX Fury HX318C10FRK2/16 16GB (2x8GB) Red
> Lots of drives (in external closure)
> 
> Cheers,
> Will


I am just a passer by, but i have noticed if you can swing the extra 20-30 bucks for the tempered window version its worth it. You get not only the tempered glass which holds up so much better over time, but they also include an RBG strip in the box if you ever wanted to use it.


----------



## ZippyO

Alright. They are currently nowhere in stock around me, but they will be in a week.
Going to buy the black/white ones. The only other black/white ones without heatshrink are from thermaltake (which are not being sold around here at all) and Cablemod (which are expensive)......


----------



## pez

Yeah if you don't need custom PSU cables, bust just extensions, they're excellent for that.


----------



## ZippyO

I specifically do not want cables for my exact PSU, because I would have to buy new ones when I change it.
As a person changing hardware pretty frequently, that is just annoying.


----------



## hurricane28

Hi guys,

I am really pissed about Phanteks right now...

I send them the pictures of the "new" crooked parts and i haven't heard from them for 2 days now.. they just ignoring my posts...

Never had such a bad experience in my life regarding quality control... never had any issues with Corsair though, they send me new parts the same week...


----------



## OneFunGenesis

Might I suggest to cut them a small break. They do not seem like the worlds largest company...judging by the way they operate and their customer service.

Much like FrozenCPU was, this might be a small/medium business that has just found niche success. I know things like this seem time sensitive but I suggest just a bit of patience.

I am not affiliated with Phanteks at all, I just know how some businesses operate.


----------



## hurricane28

Cut them a break..? Don't you understand that i am a little pissed off here?

I mean, i spend 170 euro's for a case and i really felt bad about the bad quality control of theirs, i feel even more bad about the fact that the parts that should replace the crooked parts are even more crooked than the ones they replace..

Phanteks is not that small, they are in the business for years now so they should know better. They make excellent coolers and their cases are mostly top notch quality which is why i bought Phanteks instead of Corsair this time.

I mean, did you see the pictures i posted? Its a dutch company for crying out loud and i get better support form Corsair which is American..


----------



## OneFunGenesis

No no, I get it. I understand you're upset and I'm not here to belittle that or make it a pissing contest. It might just be a bad run or something they're looking into. I would rather have things right than quick...I'm not sure about you.


----------



## w-moffatt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scotty99*
> 
> I am just a passer by, but i have noticed if you can swing the extra 20-30 bucks for the tempered window version its worth it. You get not only the tempered glass which holds up so much better over time, but they also include an RBG strip in the box if you ever wanted to use it.


Sorry forgot to add in that yes it's the tempered glass version! Didn't read the fine print about the rgb strip tho, thanks for the heads up


----------



## pez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> Hi guys,
> 
> I am really pissed about Phanteks right now...
> 
> I send them the pictures of the "new" crooked parts and i haven't heard from them for 2 days now.. they just ignoring my posts...
> 
> Never had such a bad experience in my life regarding quality control... never had any issues with Corsair though, they send me new parts the same week...


In my experience their US support has been slightly spotty. They will sometimes respond right away and sometimes take a couple of days. They're not as large in scope as Corsair, etc, so you're not going to have live chat or instantaneous responses exactly. I understand your frustrations, but you have to understand the situation as a whole, too.


----------



## w-moffatt

Hey Guys,

So build is done! See photos below. Really impressed with this case for the $$. Plenty of room for cable management and super easy to pull apart. Cheers.


----------



## Scotty99

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *w-moffatt*
> 
> Hey Guys,
> 
> So build is done! See photos below. Really impressed with this case for the $$. Plenty of room for cable management and super easy to pull apart. Cheers.


Very nice dude, does anyone know where you can buy the stock fans that come with the P400? Ive searched and cant find the exact ones. Im kinda anal about matching fans lol.


----------



## dlewbell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scotty99*
> 
> Very nice dude, does anyone know where you can buy the stock fans that come with the P400? Ive searched and cant find the exact ones. Im kinda anal about matching fans lol.


Your best bet would be to buy them off someone who has a P400, but has replaced the fans, or to just replace all the fans with another model. Phanteks does not sell that fan separately.


----------



## III-Method-III

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *w-moffatt*
> 
> Hey Guys,
> 
> So build is done! See photos below. Really impressed with this case for the $$. Plenty of room for cable management and super easy to pull apart. Cheers.


Nice build, very clean









Is the cpu under a single fan 120m aio? Curious what cpu and what your temps are?


----------



## w-moffatt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *III-Method-III*
> 
> Nice build, very clean
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Is the cpu under a single fan 120m aio? Curious what cpu and what your temps are?


Yep! Using the stock corsair one that came with the aio. I only game and so far it hasn't cracked 50 degrees at all. 48 was as high as I got it. Very happy with that. Gpu hovers around 71 degrees in a gaming session at 100% load.


----------



## terranigma73

Tried to search with no avail, but will a 280 radiator AIO fit in the front of a evolv ITX?


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *terranigma73*
> 
> Tried to search with no avail, but will a 280 radiator AIO fit in the front of a evolv ITX?


No, you can fit one in the top or a 240mm in the front.


----------



## d0mmie

So I was thinking about a possible expansion for a 240mm radiator in my Enthoo Luxe. You can see my build here.

Since I want to keep at least one of my drive cages (I currently have 4 drives installed, but could get rid of 2), and I have a 360mm rad mounted in the top, the only option I see is to have a 240mm in the bottom. I would have to remove the lowest 140mm front fan, but was thinking if it's possible to keep the top drive cages without it causing issues? I can't seem to find anyone done this kind of install.


----------



## III-Method-III

@dommie

Can you provide more pics of your case internals?

im seriously looking at a luxe and would love to see some well lit pics (ie no RGB stuff going on but well lit to see the detail of the case inside and how everything fits together)

Its hard to visualize the problems you foresee without those pics too!


----------



## d0mmie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *III-Method-III*
> 
> @dommie
> 
> Can you provide more pics of your case internals?
> 
> im seriously looking at a luxe and would love to see some well lit pics (ie no RGB stuff going on but well lit to see the detail of the case inside and how everything fits together)
> 
> Its hard to visualize the problems you foresee without those pics too!


Sorry not currently. I would have to take the side panels off and move this heavy brick around, not much in the mood for that currently with a bad shoulder


----------



## III-Method-III

Yikes, np chap. Hope your shoulder gets better!


----------



## dlewbell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *d0mmie*
> 
> So I was thinking about a possible expansion for a 240mm radiator in my Enthoo Luxe. You can see my build here.
> 
> Since I want to keep at least one of my drive cages (I currently have 4 drives installed, but could get rid of 2), and I have a 360mm rad mounted in the top, the only option I see is to have a 240mm in the bottom. I would have to remove the lowest 140mm front fan, but was thinking if it's possible to keep the top drive cages without it causing issues? I can't seem to find anyone done this kind of install.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *III-Method-III*
> 
> @dommie
> 
> Can you provide more pics of your case internals?
> 
> im seriously looking at a luxe and would love to see some well lit pics (ie no RGB stuff going on but well lit to see the detail of the case inside and how everything fits together)
> 
> Its hard to visualize the problems you foresee without those pics too!


My Luxe is air cooled, but I took some pictures recently for another guy who was considering different water cooling options. You both might find them helpful. As long as you don't have an extremely long PSU, I don't see why you would have any problems fitting a 240mm radiator in the bottom of the Luxe. You might even manage to keep both front 140mm intakes if you get lucky. I wish I had taken the time to get a picture with the PSU shroud removed as well. Maybe I'll take that later & add it. Anyways, my original post can be found here: http://www.overclock.net/t/1418637/official-case-phanteks-case-club-for-lovers-owners/16860_20#post_25852467. If you have any specific questions or things you want measured, I'm usually willing to pull the case out & see what I can get.


----------



## Scotty99

I dont know if phanteks ever reads this but, here goes.

I have been looking for a case for my ryzen build for about a week, you have two cases that i would have been near shoe in's had your design team been able to figure out a way to do FRONT DUST FILTERS PROPERLY.

Phanteks enthoo pro m:
The front panel of this case suffers the same design flaw as the pro, there are side vents that are actually located behind the filter element, and dust will and does get through there. I am amazed you released this case when you knew the front panel had a flaw on the original pro.

Phanteks P400:
This case is nearly perfect when you take into consideration the TG version. Again, the front dust filter is the big issue here. All you had to do was make a full coverage model like on pretty much every other case on the market now has, and it woulda been perfect. Ive seen two people in here say dust filtering is a big problem so that confirms my original belief when i first saw those tiny little filters in the front.

As you can see filters matter to a guy like me (dusty area) and its absolutely awesome you guys include the magnetic dust filter on the top of the P400, but most people use that as an exhaust and the front is where most air will be intook (is that a word?).

For your next case i hope you guys think a bit more about intake dust filters, right now it is the weak point of your design team and you would have had a buyer i they put a bit of more thought into it.


----------



## springs113

For me a shoe in case would've been the elite at/or around $400 but this $900 no way, cost more than my dj controller.


----------



## pez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scotty99*
> 
> Very nice dude, does anyone know where you can buy the stock fans that come with the P400? Ive searched and cant find the exact ones. Im kinda anal about matching fans lol.


IIRC, the stock P400 fans are pretty 'meh'. You'd be better served getting something like their 120/140SPs or MPs for better performance.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scotty99*
> 
> I dont know if phanteks ever reads this but, here goes.
> 
> I have been looking for a case for my ryzen build for about a week, you have two cases that i would have been near shoe in's had your design team been able to figure out a way to do FRONT DUST FILTERS PROPERLY.
> 
> Phanteks enthoo pro m:
> The front panel of this case suffers the same design flaw as the pro, there are side vents that are actually located behind the filter element, and dust will and does get through there. I am amazed you released this case when you knew the front panel had a flaw on the original pro.
> 
> Phanteks P400:
> This case is nearly perfect when you take into consideration the TG version. Again, the front dust filter is the big issue here. All you had to do was make a full coverage model like on pretty much every other case on the market now has, and it woulda been perfect. Ive seen two people in here say dust filtering is a big problem so that confirms my original belief when i first saw those tiny little filters in the front.
> 
> As you can see filters matter to a guy like me (dusty area) and its absolutely awesome you guys include the magnetic dust filter on the top of the P400, but most people use that as an exhaust and the front is where most air will be intook (is that a word?).
> 
> For your next case i hope you guys think a bit more about intake dust filters, right now it is the weak point of your design team and you would have had a buyer i they put a bit of more thought into it.


Positive pressure can help reduce the dust and did pretty well for me while I had the Pro M. I wouldn't say the side filters are the main culprit, though. A member here pointed out that the very bottom is still unfiltered and allows in quite a bit of dust. Easy to fix, but it's worth being said.


----------



## OneFunGenesis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scotty99*
> 
> I dont know if phanteks ever reads this but, here goes.
> 
> I have been looking for a case for my ryzen build for about a week, you have two cases that i would have been near shoe in's had your design team been able to figure out a way to do FRONT DUST FILTERS PROPERLY.
> 
> Phanteks enthoo pro m:
> The front panel of this case suffers the same design flaw as the pro, there are side vents that are actually located behind the filter element, and dust will and does get through there. I am amazed you released this case when you knew the front panel had a flaw on the original pro.


The front sides of the pro M have their own filters now. They are non-removable but do a decent job....


----------



## smithydan

Yes they do.


----------



## Zaen

My Enthoo pro get's a lot of dust inside and i'm working on improving air circulation/noise/radiator cooling going for positive pressures. Unfortunately i have the older model of the Enthoo pro, without the front side filters, and i do get a lot of dust and whatnot through it. Thinking of getting some adhesive mesh and glue it inside









Currently i have negative pressure and i just got 2 noctua 120mm to replace radiator corsair fans and put those corsair 120mm (if i can fit them both with the lower HDD bay mounted) removing 1x PH140sp from the bottom of the case, increasing intake and hopefully getting some actual positive pressure inside the case









Just not sure if both 120mm will fit with with the lower half of the HDD bay in place. Anyone has experience with 2x120mm fans at the bottom of a Enthoo pro with the HDD bay in place?

Currently i have:

Intake: 1x200mm - front, 1x140mm - bottom
Blower: 1x140mm - top, 1x140mm - back, 2x120mm - top (radiator)

Too much on the negative pressure, thus the dust. If all fails i will reverse the back fan from blower to intake


----------



## Dorito Bandit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zaen*
> 
> My Enthoo pro get's a lot of dust inside and i'm working on improving air circulation/noise/radiator cooling going for positive pressures. Unfortunately i have the older model of the Enthoo pro, without the front side filters, and i do get a lot of dust and whatnot through it. Thinking of getting some adhesive mesh and glue it inside
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Currently i have negative pressure and i just got 2 noctua 120mm to replace radiator corsair fans and put those corsair 120mm (if i can fit them both with the lower HDD bay mounted) removing 1x PH140sp from the bottom of the case, increasing intake and hopefully getting some actual positive pressure inside the case
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just not sure if both 120mm will fit with with the lower half of the HDD bay in place. Anyone has experience with 2x120mm fans at the bottom of a Enthoo pro with the HDD bay in place?
> 
> Currently i have:
> 
> Intake: 1x200mm - front, 1x140mm - bottom
> Blower: 1x140mm - top, 1x140mm - back, 2x120mm - top (radiator)
> 
> Too much on the negative pressure, thus the dust. If all fails i will reverse the back fan from blower to intake


I use some air conditioning foam filter on my Enthoo Pro front side vents. Certainly helps catch some of the dust and does not restrict air intake too badly, either. You can find this stuff at Walmart and most any hardware stores.


----------



## terranigma73

Just installed a Be Quiet! Silent Loop 280 into my Evolv ITX, considering it only woudl fit in the top I am wondering.
In the example setups in the manual it states you can have front and back fans as both intakes, I am wondering if that would be wise with this case, as the back one basically sits right below the exhaust of the SL 280, would that not become an issue, with the back fan basically just drawing back in that exhaust?


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *terranigma73*
> 
> Just installed a Be Quiet! Silent Loop 280 into my Evolv ITX, considering it only woudl fit in the top I am wondering.
> In the example setups in the manual it states you can have front and back fans as both intakes, I am wondering if that would be wise with this case, as the back one basically sits right below the exhaust of the SL 280, would that not become an issue, with the back fan basically just drawing back in that exhaust?


I don't think the small amount of exhaust out back of top will effect the cool airflow to rear 140mm vent as intake to be a problem. Best way to find out is try.

Be sure you seal all openings in the radiator mounting tray between motherboard compartment so heated air coming out of radiator cannot get back into motherboard comparment.
http://www.overclock.net/t/1418637/official-case-phanteks-case-club-for-lovers-owners/13700_20#post_25268315

You might try setting the top on it's latches instead of latched on tight. This increases top vent area
Stock the top has about 32.4 sq cm of airflow area.
Removing the grill mess makes it about 56.8 sq cm.
Setting top on latches instead of latched makes it 110.6 sq cm.
http://www.overclock.net/t/1418637/official-case-phanteks-case-club-for-lovers-owners/13240_20#post_25198233


----------



## terranigma73

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> I don't think the small amount of exhaust out back of top will effect the cool airflow to rear 140mm vent as intake to be a problem. Best way to find out is try.
> 
> Be sure you seal all openings in the radiator mounting tray between motherboard compartment so heated air coming out of radiator cannot get back into motherboard comparment.
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1418637/official-case-phanteks-case-club-for-lovers-owners/13700_20#post_25268315
> 
> You might try setting the top on it's latches instead of latched on tight. This increases top vent area
> Stock the top has about 32.4 sq cm of airflow area.
> Removing the grill mess makes it about 56.8 sq cm.
> Setting top on latches instead of latched makes it 110.6 sq cm.
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1418637/official-case-phanteks-case-club-for-lovers-owners/13240_20#post_25198233


AFAIK all openings are sealed because the Silent Loop 280 is so big.
Gonna try the second one once I get home.


----------



## Dokter Bibber

@hurricane28 How's the Evolv ATX TG warranty replacement saga continuing?
I'm looking at that case for a Ryzen/Naples workstation build. (Not in a hurry though. Just 32 PCI-e 3.0 lanes to the Ryzen CPU is a showstopper for me.)
But your posts about QC and even worse parts as warranty replacements make me hesitant.
Have you asked for a full replacement yet?
.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> Here are some pictures i took from the new components that should be better than the ones that came with the case...
> 
> As you can see the metal mesh doesn't even fit around the plastic frame..
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now this is from my Corsair obsidian 650 D front mesh:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But wait, there is even more..
> 
> This is the front IO panel, and yet again its even more crooked than the one that came included with the case..
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is a picture of the mesh that came included with the case installed:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the new one:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You tell me, am i really that nitpicking or is this unacceptable? I mean, i buy an quality product and i expect it to be quality but its far from it.. now if this was a case of "only" 80 euro's/dollar's i could expect something like this but i payed 175 euro's for it which is an premium price... I am far from happy with Phanteks at this moment...


*EDIT:*


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dokter Bibber*
> 
> @hurricane28 How's the Evolv ATX TG warranty replacement saga continuing?
> I'm looking at that case for a Ryzen/Naples workstation build. (Not in a hurry though. Just 32 PCI-e 3.0 lanes to the Ryzen CPU is a showstopper for me.)
> But your posts about QC and even worse parts as warranty replacements make me hesitant.
> Have you asked for a full replacement yet?
> .
> *EDIT:*
> 
> Oh chips! Here's another one:
> .


Its crap to be honest... quality is really poor and the replacement parts are not much better than the previous ones... sigh.. i might return this case and get Corsair again which is much better quality and quality control is much much better to be honest.

Its the last Phanteks product i ever buy..

The only draw back for me to return is its because it is an awesome case to be fair, only the build quality is poor, the rest is simply awesome including the tempered glass side panel.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dokter Bibber*
> 
> @hurricane28 How's the Evolv ATX TG warranty replacement saga continuing?
> I'm looking at that case for a Ryzen/Naples workstation build. (Not in a hurry though. Just 32 PCI-e 3.0 lanes to the Ryzen CPU is a showstopper for me.)
> But your posts about QC and even worse parts as warranty replacements make me hesitant.
> Have you asked for a full replacement yet?
> .
> *EDIT:*
> 
> Oh chips! Here's another one:
> .


I have to wonder what the real story is with the 'problems' these guys are having with Phanteks. While I haven't had any problems in about 8 months, I've dealt with Phanteks support several times in their lifetime starting with PH-TC14PE and needing the PWM adapter for origninal 3-pin fans. I use a lot of Phanteks products, and occasionally I need their help / support with shipping damage, etc. No product is perfect, but I have never had Phanteks support not resolve an issue .. never! Every problem I've presented to them has been taken care of professionally and in reasonable time, and most have been resolved very fast.


----------



## OneFunGenesis

^ This


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneFunGenesis*
> 
> ^ This


I have to admit, the pictures from both hurricane28 and GunStar0ne show show legitimate issues/problems.








At a wild guess these all appear to poor quality control at factory, and probably off of assembly line the same day or two. Obviously once case is boxed and sealed there is no way of seeing the problems until buyer opens box. Buyer has a problem contacts their seller or Phanteks CS and new sealed box is sent. Seller and Phanteks CS don't open sealed boxes to check contents before sending, so they have no idea how many of these problem cases were boxed up until buyers complain. It's a bad deal for everyone, .. buyer, seller, Phanteks CS, and Phanteks .. all the way back to factory where they were make probably several months ago.


----------



## nycgtr

I got my evolv from amazon a month ago. It was pristine outside of a minor hairline on the glass facing the wiring. It's not a big deal for me to make a fuss. I've bought 3 phantkes cases and all 3 came fairly good so I chop it to bad luck.


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> I have to wonder what the real story is with the 'problems' these guys are having with Phanteks. While I haven't had any problems in about 8 months, I've dealt with Phanteks support several times in their lifetime starting with PH-TC14PE and needing the PWM adapter for origninal 3-pin fans. I use a lot of Phanteks products, and occasionally I need their help / support with shipping damage, etc. No product is perfect, but I have never had Phanteks support not resolve an issue .. never! Every problem I've presented to them has been taken care of professionally and in reasonable time, and most have been resolved very fast.


I don't like what you implying... You calling us liars or something?

I thought i explained perfectly well what happened.. nothing more nothing less happened. I bought a case, some parts were crooked and some were broken, i contacted Phanteks and they send me new parts that are even worse than the products they are replacing... i posted pictures for crying out loud.. there is no conspiracy theory here, just plain facts which i provided proof for..

What clearly is the case here is that Phanteks has a very low quality standard and has no or minimal quality control... If you have an different experience with Phanteks than good for you but unfortunately it doesn't apply for us as we clearly have issues. And simply because YOU don't have any problems doesn't mean everyone else shouldn't...


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> I have to admit, the pictures from both hurricane28 and GunStar0ne show show legitimate issues/problems.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *At a wild guess these all appear to poor quality control at factory, and probably off of assembly line the same day or two. Obviously once case is boxed and sealed there is no way of seeing the problems until buyer opens box.* Buyer has a problem contacts their seller or Phanteks CS and new sealed box is sent. Seller and Phanteks CS don't open sealed boxes to check contents before sending, so they have no idea how many of these problem cases were boxed up until buyers complain. It's a bad deal for everyone, .. buyer, seller, Phanteks CS, and Phanteks .. all the way back to factory where they were make probably several months ago.


It indeed appears a problem at the assembly line but in my case they did quality control BEFORE they send the new parts out and claiming that the dust filter is not crooked anymore but it still is... There must be something wrong with their eyes because when i fit the top dust filter in place, its clearly crooked again. If you like i can make a picture of it...

As for the rest, the front IO panel appears to be okay and the fan header is also better quality, they even send me an 4-pin extension cable to use both fan headers, so its not all bad with Phanteks, it just feels rushed.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> I don't like what you implying... You calling us liars or something?
> 
> I thought i explained perfectly well what happened.. nothing more nothing less happened. I bought a case, some parts were crooked and some were broken, i contacted Phanteks and they send me new parts that are even worse than the products they are replacing... i posted pictures for crying out loud.. there is no conspiracy theory here, just plain facts which i provided proof for..
> 
> What clearly is the case here is that Phanteks has a very low quality standard and has no or minimal quality control... If you have an different experience with Phanteks than good for you but unfortunately it doesn't apply for us as we clearly have issues. And simply because YOU don't have any problems doesn't mean everyone else shouldn't...


If you pay attention to how I post you would know I do not 'imply' things. It stand up and say it plain and simple as I see it. You are the one painting Phanteks with a broad brush of deceptive statements.

It seems you are the one making false claims
"What clearly is the case here is that Phanteks has a very low quality standard and has no or minimal quality control."

and
"There must be something wrong with their eyes."

You and GunStar0ne are the rare exceptions to the quality the rest of us have gotten. I have built 10 Phanteks case starting with one of their very first Enthoo Primo case I got the day of official release to one 2 months ago and have had no problems with them. I had a defective PWM hub and a fin came loose on bottom of one of the first PH-TC14PE coolers .. after it was remounted probalby 20 times. I attribute that a combinaiton of a not perfect solder joint combined withlots of in / out handling. I have asked Phanteks lots of questions and used almost every product they have made to date. I have an order for Enthoo Elite build I hope to do, but no money has exchanged hands yet so haven't ordered a case. .

I posted very quickly saying you did indeed have problems.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> I have to admit, the pictures from both hurricane28 and GunStar0ne show show legitimate issues/problems.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At a wild guess these all appear to poor quality control at factory, and probably off of assembly line the same day or two. Obviously once case is boxed and sealed there is no way of seeing the problems until buyer opens box. Buyer has a problem contacts their seller or Phanteks CS and new sealed box is sent. Seller and Phanteks CS don't open sealed boxes to check contents before sending, so they have no idea how many of these problem cases were boxed up until buyers complain. It's a bad deal for everyone, .. buyer, seller, Phanteks CS, and Phanteks .. all the way back to factory where they were make probably several months ago.


You have repeatedly jumped all over Phanteks even though by your own admission they have been trying to deal with your problems .. and now jumping all over me and not even acknowledging that you jumped me for what you though I might be saying .. then replying to my post acknowledging your problems without a word of apology for your previous post.

Do you have defective parts? Yes!
Do you have reason to expect replacements? Yes!
But please try not be too much of a perfectionist. These are production run cases normally much better than other brands out there, but they are not perfect. If you want perfectcion expect to pay at least twice if not three times as much .. and you will still find they have imperfections. While you two are not the only people who have had some bad parts / broken components on this forum, the huge number of members we have here and how few the problems have been proves Phanteks is a good company with good customer support.


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> If you pay attention to how I post you would know I do not 'imply' things. It stand up and say it plain and simple as I see it. You are the one painting Phanteks with a broad brush of deceptive statements.
> 
> *It seems you are the one making false claims
> 1*
> "What clearly is the case here is that Phanteks has a very low quality standard and has no or minimal quality control."
> 
> and
> "There must be something wrong with their eyes."
> 
> You and GunStar0ne are the rare exceptions to the quality the rest of us have gotten. I have built 10 Phanteks case starting with one of their very first Enthoo Primo case I got the day of official release to one 2 months ago and have had no problems with them. I had a defective PWM hub and a fin came loose on bottom of one of the first PH-TC14PE coolers .. after it was remounted probalby 20 times. I attribute that a combinaiton of a not perfect solder joint combined withlots of in / out handling. I have asked Phanteks lots of questions and used almost every product they have made to date. I have an order for Enthoo Elite build I hope to do, but no money has exchanged hands yet so haven't ordered a case. .
> 
> I posted very quickly saying you did indeed have problems.
> You have repeatedly jumped all over Phanteks even though by your own admission they have been trying to deal with your problems .. *2 and now jumping all over me and not even acknowledging that you jumped me for what you though I might be saying .. then replying to my post acknowledging your problems without a word of apology for your previous post.*
> 
> Do you have defective parts? Yes!
> Do you have reason to expect replacements? Yes!
> But please try not be too much of a perfectionist. These are production run cases normally much better than other brands out there, but they are not perfect. *If you want perfectcion expect to pay at least twice if not three times as much ..* and you will still find they have imperfections. While you two are not the only people who have had some bad parts / broken components on this forum, the huge number of members we have here and how few the problems have been proves Phanteks is a good company with good customer support.


1: False claims...?I can proof this simply by adding pictures... and as i said before, they checked the parts with their eyes and said the dust filter wasn't crooked but when i mount it its clearly crooked and this is the third part that is crooked, so yeah, i can say with certainty that my experience with them results in me thinking that they do not have quality control and there is something wrong with their eyes...

I mean, if i have a grey car and you say its black, than there must be something wrong with your eyes or you are simply ignorant...

2: Dude, i didn't even seen your post so our posts must have cross each other...

Who is saying that i want perfection...? Don't out words in my mouth please. So i need to pay at least 300 dollar in order to get an case with straight dust filter...? That's ridiculous man. Like i said before, i never had problems wit Corsair though, but only one side panel was bend badly and they replaced it within 3 days for a panel that is straight.. so you don't need to buy a case for 300 dollar for straight parts...

I am not saying that their customer support is bad by any means.. they are very friendly and helpful and fast but the top dust filter is still crooked.. now, everyone with a double digit IQ understands how frustrating that is... Now i am not saying that they are not allowed to make mistakes by any means, but if they checked the filter and claiming that its not crooked but on arrival it IS crooked.. man, you can't imagine how disappointed i was and am...

I don't know how rich you are but for me €175 is a lot of money and especially for a case... I don't expect perfection but this case is very close for my needs and IMO there is no case at this price point that can beat it, especially aesthetically.

Now, lets calm down and at least try to understand each other. I am very disappointed because i spend a lot of money on a case that shouldn't come through quality control in the factory, period. You are neutral in this so you have a different feeling in this regard. But everyone with an double digit IQ understands my frustrations and i didn't say anything that isn't true because i can backup my claims by adding pictures.

Enough about this, lets focus on the problem at hand instead of cutting each others throats which offers no contribution to the forum/thread.


----------



## OneFunGenesis

Take a quick watch at this video to explain why some things look different to others:




As to quality control: I have to ask if you have ever worked in industry? Very few industries check every and all parts on the assembly line. Instead, they take a representative sample of the run. That sample can be good when the rest of the run is bad or bad when the rest is good.

There are certain variations for parts that are not medical or food grade. They are not held to thousandths when a sixteenth is okay (mm when cm is okay) for example. Just something to think about.

Again, I am not downplaying your experience. You have some poor parts. What I am downplaying is you calling Phanteks out for a VERY small bad run.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> 1: False claims...?I can proof this simply by adding pictures... and as i said before, they checked the parts with their eyes and said the dust filter wasn't crooked but when i mount it its clearly crooked and this is the third part that is crooked, so yeah, i can say with certainty that my experience with them results in me thinking that they do not have quality control and there is something wrong with their eyes...
> 
> I mean, if i have a grey car and you say its black, than there must be something wrong with your eyes or you are simply ignorant...
> 
> 2: Dude, i didn't even seen your post so our posts must have cross each other...
> 
> Who is saying that i want perfection...? Don't out words in my mouth please. So i need to pay at least 300 dollar in order to get an case with straight dust filter...? That's ridiculous man. Like i said before, i never had problems wit Corsair though, but only one side panel was bend badly and they replaced it within 3 days for a panel that is straight.. so you don't need to buy a case for 300 dollar for straight parts...
> 
> I am not saying that their customer support is bad by any means.. they are very friendly and helpful and fast but the top dust filter is still crooked.. now, everyone with a double digit IQ understands how frustrating that is... Now i am not saying that they are not allowed to make mistakes by any means, but if they checked the filter and claiming that its not crooked but on arrival it IS crooked.. man, you can't imagine how disappointed i was and am...
> 
> I don't know how rich you are but for me €175 is a lot of money and especially for a case... I don't expect perfection but this case is very close for my needs and IMO there is no case at this price point that can beat it, especially aesthetically.
> 
> Now, lets calm down and at least try to understand each other. I am very disappointed because i spend a lot of money on a case that shouldn't come through quality control in the factory, period. You are neutral in this so you have a different feeling in this regard. But everyone with an double digit IQ understands my frustrations and i didn't say anything that isn't true because i can backup my claims by adding pictures.
> 
> Enough about this, lets focus on the problem at hand instead of cutting each others throats which offers no contribution to the forum/thread.


To me €175 is a very large sum, but nothing like what Lian Li are much more expensive for no better quality.
You rant at me then say let's calm down.
I've been calm all along.
Being disappointed is not the same thing ranting on and on about what is not the normal quality of Phanteks products.Enough with this 'double digit IQ' garbage.
Again with the ranting and saying enough of 'cutting each others throats'.
I am calm.
I have sad Phanteks is good at dealing with any problems it has.
I have explained how your problem happens, OneFunGenesis explained it even better.
I'm sorry you are having this series of problems.
I'm think Phanteks CS is working hard to solve them.
Give them the time they need to work it.


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneFunGenesis*
> 
> Take a quick watch at this video to explain why some things look different to others:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As to quality control: I have to ask if you have ever worked in industry? Very few industries check every and all parts on the assembly line. Instead, they take a representative sample of the run. That sample can be good when the rest of the run is bad or bad when the rest is good.
> 
> There are certain variations for parts that are not medical or food grade. They are not held to thousandths when a sixteenth is okay (mm when cm is okay) for example. Just something to think about.
> 
> Again, I am not downplaying your experience. You have some poor parts. What I am downplaying is you calling Phanteks out for a VERY small bad run.


Thank you and i appreciate your input on this.

As to your question, YES i worked in the industry. I worked as a mechanic in a factory that makes potato planters and believe it or not, i was at the end of the production line and was responsible for the finishing touch and quality control with 1 other college of mine at that time. I was responsible for the entire machine and not only for the parts i installed but i had a whole check list and i didn't allow the machine to leave the line until it performs according to spec and every part on the check list is finked off.

I also worked in a can factory where they make cans to store paint in. I worked there as an line technician and was responsible for the whole process from metal sheet to the can itself. Regularly we did tests with a machine to test if the cans were still up to spec and if they did not, i had to adjust the machines in order to get the can up to spec.

So multiple jobs of mine dictates that i was responsible for the making and quality control of the product. So yes, i do understand what quality control means and there can be a serie of products that are not up to spec. That isn't the problem though because they replaced those parts for the same parts from the same production time which are bad.

Now, my problem is that they visually inspected the top dust filter and said that its not crooked anymore, on arrival its clearly crooked...That part i don't understand. I looked for some images on the internet about this dust filter and compared some to mine and you can clearly see that mine is crooked... this is not a story of red being red.. crooked is crooked, no discussion here.

Its the same story like if you are around a three with 5 people or so and ask each individual to make a description about the three. They all have different description but it remains the same three...

Long story short, i maybe was a little too blunt in my previous posts but hopefully you can understand my frustration especially when its the 3rd time. I will contact them and explain what happened and i am sure they lead this to an positive result.


----------



## Dokter Bibber

@hurricane28, @doyll, @OneFunGenesis, @nycgtr
Chaps, thanks for posting.

@hurricane28, What is the status ? Have you received satisfactory replacements meanwhile, or are there new replacements in transit?
If Phantek keeps sending you new parts or even a new case until you are completely taken care of, I will look at that as a positive and still order the case.
Otherwise I'm going for my second Lian-Li PC-V33WX.


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dokter Bibber*
> 
> @hurricane28, @doyll, @OneFunGenesis, @nycgtr
> Chaps, thanks for posting.
> 
> @hurricane28, What is the status ? Have you received satisfactory replacements meanwhile, or are there new replacements in transit?
> If Phantek keeps sending you new parts or even a new case until you are completely taken care of, I will look at that as a positive and still order the case.
> Otherwise I'm going for my second Lian-Li PC-V33WX.


The status is that i have new parts which are better than the previous ones. I just installed the new front IO panel cover and its completely straight so i am very happy with the result.

The fan hub also works great and they even send me an extra 4-pin extension cable so i can use both my fan hubs. The first one had 2 broken fan connectors so i can use it only for a few fans and i need all the connectors.

The top dust filter is the best i have so far so i am not going to bother with them because it doesn't get any more straight than it already is.

Long story short, there is no reason not to buy Phanteks! I was a little too fast with my reply and i was a little mad about it which was wrong of me to do so.

Their products are top notch IMO and i am sure you won't regret buying Phanteks! I have had several Corsair cases and they all were pretty good but i prefer Phanteks over Corsair because Phanteks uses better more quality products. I only had bad luck with my case but that doesn't mean that it happens all the time, its just me having bad luck like always.. lol

Keep us updated on what case you bought!


----------



## Dokter Bibber

@hurricane28
Glad that Phanteks kept at it until you were happy. And Phanteks too I assume. That is good news to hear. ?
And actually an extra plus for their warranty service.

The Evolv ATX TG is still top on my shortlist (of just 2).


----------



## pez

Every time I see a Pro M build, I almost go on Amazon/Newegg and order one again







. That's only digging a bigger hole for me, though







.


----------



## Testing12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pez*
> 
> Every time I see a Pro M build, I almost go on Amazon/Newegg and order one again
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . That's only digging a bigger hole for me, though
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


I too love the Pro M; more specifically, the tempered glass version.
I don't think its exterior is as visually appealing as the Evolv ATX, but it has a more traditional look (which I tend to favor) with the same well-designed interior.
What really sets it apart for me is that it has an optical drive cage. I know most are no longer using ODD's. I too have found I use them less and less these days. However, I still drive a vehicle that has a CD player, attend a once-a-week meeting where CD's I've burned have come in very handy and have a good stack of CD's with material I care about.

Anyway, all that to say +1 to your post... well, except for the digging a hole part.


----------



## pez

Yeah, I had the same sentiments when (first) purchasing the case. I ended up getting the SFF bug and love it, but I still kinda want to do an ATX build again. In other news, I wouldn't mind the Evolv mATX TG that should be out.....soon-ish.


----------



## Zaen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dorito Bandit*
> 
> I use some air conditioning foam filter on my Enthoo Pro front side vents. Certainly helps catch some of the dust and does not restrict air intake too badly, either. You can find this stuff at Walmart and most any hardware stores.


Thx m8








been looking for what they were called to get some. I'm in EU so no wallmart ^_^ but i can go to hardware stores like you said, i actually do quite often, just didn't have the name for what i was looking for.

Rep up


----------



## Zaen

After more then 1 and a half years i can say my Enthoo pro has been great to work with and has room for my kind of imagination







although with very slow paced given my $$$ limitations.

Beside the dust problem i have been working to avoid i only have 1 complain about my case, although i don't worrie about it because i don't use it at all, my front panel mic connector doesn't work properly. When i plug a mic there, any mic either built in a headset or separate, my pwr button LED turns off and i get only noise in my headsets.
My reasoning is that a cable was soldered in the wrong place in the front panel PCB or somehow a pwr carrying cable is touching the mic connection or solder. Besides this problem, and the dust it was all great.

Like i said i don't use the front panel 3,5mm jacks so i never complained about it to Phantek's, it wasn't worth not having a running PC for a few days, much less a few weeks, for them to change the case and or front panel PCB. Plus i know my way around PCB's and computer electronics, just need to buy some good meausering instruments to find the problem and fix it myself if i ever get interested in that front panel sound connections. Only use it's USB's


----------



## xTesla1856

Last night I synced up both my built in Luxe TG lighting as well as an additional interior lightstrip to my motherboard with the Phanteks AURA cable kit. Pretty awesome to see all the new effects and colors. At 8 bucks it's a steal too !


----------



## RXWX

is it possible to have white lighting led on the tg version of the luxe?


----------



## BinaryBummer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RXWX*
> 
> is it possible to have white lighting led on the tg version of the luxe?


I put the DeepCool RGB magnetic LED w/remote in my system. I use white for visibility, but then use colors in general for all other visual. My Sabertooth r3.0 don't have and RGB control other then the built in AURA system.

Something to consider on the next build is the RGB ports


----------



## siox69

hello

wanna share my build and my entry for our recent lan party here at the Philippines


----------



## nycgtr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *siox69*
> 
> hello
> 
> wanna share my build and my entry for our recent lan party here at the Philippines


Gorgeous build. Only 1 thing that's an issue. Get rid of that thermaltake garbage!


----------



## exploiteddna

im about to buy the Enthoo Pro M ... and I want the version with the full acrylic window, but the normal version is available right now for 59.99 after $10 rebate, whereas the full window version is at 79.99 after the $10 rebate... is a larger window worth $20 extra.... i guess my fear is that i think my pumpres will go in the front of the case, and with the smaller window, wont have as good of a view of it since the window in the normal version doesnt extend that far forward...

but $20 (which is ~33% of the base cost) for a little more acrylic..

why am i so indecisive?


----------



## nycgtr

Yes it's worth the 20 dollars just for a cleaner look and get the glass not acrylic. Looks much better.


----------



## exploiteddna

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nycgtr*
> 
> Yes it's worth the 20 dollars just for a cleaner look and get the glass not acrylic. Looks much better.


i was having a difficult time adding the extra $20 .. now were talking $30 ... hmmmm

whats the problem with the acrylic? (i mean, obv tempered glass is badass.. but..)

EDIT: its actually $40 difference from the base, since there isnt an active rebate for the tempered version


----------



## OneFunGenesis

I have the acrylic version. It is worth it.

I got mine before the TG version was released. I am buying the TG side panel from Phanteks (they will sell it to you separately) as the acrylic scratches when you fart. Or look at it wrong. Or when an angel gets their wings. I think you catch my drift. Acrylic is relatively soft but was the only version available when I purchased.

Still love the freaking case!

EDIT: michaelrw, I live 3 hours north of you and my parents are in Rochester LOL. The odds


----------



## nycgtr

The acrylic also is more reflective I believe. 10 dollar difference. Which essentially is like no difference.


----------



## OneFunGenesis

Since you're in Syracuse, I can tell you that the Phanteks TG panel is only $20 but shipping to Rochester/Syracuse is $24. So buy it pre-installed lol


----------



## Dorito Bandit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zaen*
> 
> Thx m8
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> been looking for what they were called to get some. I'm in EU so no wallmart ^_^ but i can go to hardware stores like you said, i actually do quite often, just didn't have the name for what i was looking for.
> 
> Rep up


Glad the information was helpful to you! And yes, you should be able to find the air conditioning foam at most any hardware store. I see it everywhere here in the US, at least.

Best of luck!


----------



## exploiteddna

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneFunGenesis*
> 
> I have the acrylic version. It is worth it.
> 
> I got mine before the TG version was released. I am buying the TG side panel from Phanteks (they will sell it to you separately) as the acrylic scratches when you fart. Or look at it wrong. Or when an angel gets their wings. I think you catch my drift. Acrylic is relatively soft but was the only version available when I purchased.
> 
> Still love the freaking case!
> 
> EDIT: michaelrw, I live 3 hours north of you and my parents are in Rochester LOL. The odds
> 
> Since you're in Syracuse, I can tell you that the Phanteks TG panel is only $20 but shipping to Rochester/Syracuse is $24. So buy it pre-installed lol


how much are you paying for the TG panel?
isnt canada 3 hours north of me? lol
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nycgtr*
> 
> The acrylic also is more reflective I believe. 10 dollar difference. Which essentially is like no difference.


yeah.. i think im gonna go for it.. i think. lol
just need to pull the trigger.. all my upgrade parts have been ordered so i need to just do it and stop thinking so much


----------



## pez

I enjoyed the acrylic side panel of mine, but ultimately if I did another one, I'd undoubtedly go with TG. Highly refomm be the case.


----------



## exploiteddna

Ok so its all said and done.. everything is ordered now, except for some new tubing and fittings.

*Here is the new stuff*:


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



 
   


Enthoo Pro M (TG)
MSI gaming pro carbon (z270)
Trident Z -- 2x8gb
6700k
PrimoChill CTR SFF Phase II High Flow (D5 Enabled)
Watercool WCP D5-VarioEK-FC1070 GTX - Acetal+Nicke
EK-FC1070 GTX (Acetal+Nickel)
8x EK compression fittings 3/8 x 1/2; 6 white 2 black
ModMyToys PVC clear tubing (cant get into hard tubing at the moment)




*Parts I'll be re-using/transferring from current build*:


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



 Swiftech Apogee HD
 Swiftech MCR320-XP
 EVGA gtx1070 Black Edition SC
 Seasonic X1050 Gold

*Also:*

Samsung 850 EVO 2.5" SATA3 500gb
WD Red - 2TB
WD Black - 2TB




*Parts that won't be transferred (i.e. will be getting rid of)*
Custom test bench case (you can see it in my sig).. a little beat up, but it works. built by an artisan here on OCN, but I dont think he still makes these. I dont have the room in my place to keep this

EVGA z87 FTW
i5 4690k
2x8gb gskill RipX 1866
Koolance universal GPU block
XSPC dual bay res for DDC pumps
DDC pump
Scythe fan controller 5.25"

*background (/rant) about this upgrade*
So, I feel like this upgrade has been a long time coming. Even though the hardware I currently have (listed above) is not terribly outdated, I really miss having an i7 for tasks that utilize the added processing threads. Ive also been dealing with a few odd behaviors* with my current setup and Win10... was never able to identify the source of the issue (likely some sort of motherboard/OS/BIOS incompatibility) .. regardless, this was another factor that motivated the upgrade. Additionally, Ive been using my test bench as my primary case for many years, which used to make sense because I was switching hardware every other day and was also doing LN2 sessions on the weekends... neither of which are still happening. So, I've been wanting to move into a new case, a proper tower case, for quite some time. I knew I would have to re-do my loop whenever I made the move into a new case. Also, I currently use a dual bay res that should have been retired many years ago, so replacing that with a newer res/pump is long overdue. All of the other upgrades, like the DDR4 and motherboard were all necessary due to the CPU upgrade. Of course, I could have just found a used 4790k and kept my same RAM and MB, but then I still had these odd behaviors that I was afraid would continue unless I fully replaced my current MB/CPU/chipset combination. So.. long story short, I never really felt that my current setup was outdated enough to warrant an entire system upgrade, but because of the factors I just mentioned, a complete overhaul was what was necessary, and what made the most sense. And once you decide you're upgrading a good portion of the setup, you then fall victim to the "well, why would I make _component X_ and _component Y_ new, but leave _component Z_ outdated and 3 generations back?" And then there are those parts/components that must be upgraded due to compatibility. So.. here we are, and that is how I got here









* Motherboard does some weird stuff with respect to drive recognition (tested multiple SSD and HDD, all the same); also lots of issues with 'anniversary update' build 1611 of win10 that may or may not be attributable to this hardware and/or the z87 platform; a few other weird things that, like the others, aren't super problematic but theyre certainly a nuisance.

I think that's all


----------



## RomZz

it ain't always about TG Panel, even tho OneFunGenesis had a pretty fair point


----------



## OneFunGenesis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *michaelrw*
> 
> how much are you paying for the TG panel?
> isnt canada 3 hours north of me? lol


TG panel shipped to me is $45. Panel is $20 and shipping is $25









Also, I am about 45 mins from the Canadian boarder haha


----------



## RomZz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneFunGenesis*
> 
> TG panel shipped to me is $45. Panel is $20 and shipping is $25


May i ask where you got it from? (link)
And how will you fit it on your case? fitting of side panels for both version are definitely differents right?


----------



## OneFunGenesis

You have to call Phanteks and they process a special order for you.

The TG panel and the Acrylic panel use the same mounting system and location. It's a direct replacement


----------



## RomZz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneFunGenesis*
> 
> You have to call Phanteks and they process a special order for you.
> 
> The TG panel and the Acrylic panel use the same mounting system and location. It's a direct replacement


I see not the best possible way but thanks!

And as for the mounting, i'm not sure which one you got exactly, but on mine (Enthoo Luxe) it's just 2 VERY different ways.


----------



## OneFunGenesis

This is for the Pro M Acrylic lol. Sorry for not mentioning that


----------



## xFALL3Nx

Loving my mil green entho pro! Not much is green though, only the side panels. The grey metal flake titanium is beautiful though!


----------



## dmbjohn

does anyone happen to know if there is a TG panel for the Primo's? I'm pretty sure its what I'd like to use for my next project but TG does have a certain appeal.


----------



## RomZz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmbjohn*
> 
> does anyone happen to know if there is a TG panel for the Primo's? I'm pretty sure its what I'd like to use for my next project but TG does have a certain appeal.


As far as i know the closest full side window for Enthoo Primo/Luxe is :
https://mnpctech.com/phanteks-case-mods/phanteks-enthoo-primo-clear-window-replacement-side-panel-version2.html
Still not TG though


----------



## ZippyO

Just wanted to buy the black/white sleeved cable-extensions from Phanteks, but of course they are now not available anymore anywhere in Germany.
The closest delivery-date is now in about 2 months...... How is it possible, that so much hardware is only available very rarely with therefore long waiting-times or not available at all -.-


----------



## warpedsoul

Hello. I bought the Phanteks Enthoo Luxe Series PH-ES614L_BK case. I installed 2 140mm fans in front, moved the 200mm fan to the top rear, and wanting to install a 140mm on the bottom. I can't seem to figure out where it goes as I can't get the mounting holes to line up. Any advice?

Also, not a big deal, but on my case, the back right (if you're looking at the front of the case) part of the mesh sticks up. It sill locks in place fine, but kind of bugs me. Anyone else have this issue or know how to fix it?


----------



## exploiteddna

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZippyO*
> 
> Just wanted to buy the black/white sleeved cable-extensions from Phanteks, but of course they are now not available anymore anywhere in Germany.
> The closest delivery-date is now in about 2 months...... How is it possible, that so much hardware is only available very rarely with therefore long waiting-times or not available at all -.-


thats disappointing. but i believe there are other companies who can give you a similar product.. im pretty sure. maybe that is an option for you


----------



## ZippyO

There are no other options for black/white cables around here.
Cablemod is very expensive, the ones from Thermaltake are not available at all and Nanoxia uses heatshrink which looks terrible.
Custom made ones would of course just be even more expensive and I simply can not afford that as a student......

Gesendet von meinem SHIELD Tablet K1 mit Tapatalk


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZippyO*
> 
> Just wanted to buy the black/white sleeved cable-extensions from Phanteks, but of course they are now not available anymore anywhere in Germany.
> The closest delivery-date is now in about 2 months...... How is it possible, that so much hardware is only available very rarely with therefore long waiting-times or not available at all -.-


Have you contacted Phanteks customer support about getting some?

At a guess the reason is that retailers are not selling many of these extensions and of the ones the originally ordered the black/white one sold out before the ordered more .. maybe they only got one set of each color. We need to keep in mind that we are a very select group of a select group of people who not only build our own computers but go into more details of cable color, lighting, etc.


----------



## RomZz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZippyO*
> 
> There are no other options for black/white cables around here.
> Cablemod is very expensive, the ones from Thermaltake are not available at all and Nanoxia uses heatshrink which looks terrible.
> Custom made ones would of course just be even more expensive and I simply can not afford that as a student......


Did you get a look into BitFenix?


----------



## ZippyO

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RomZz*
> 
> Did you get a look into BitFenix?


Bitfenix sadly does not offer extensions in black/white.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZippyO*
> 
> Bitfenix sadly does not offer extensions in black/white.


Contact Phanteks. If they have stock, they will sell you directly.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Contact Phanteks. If they have stock, they will sell you directly.


Phanteks USA sells direct, I don't think over here in Europe we have that option. I could be wrong. Definitly worth contacting customer support and asking.


----------



## exploiteddna

my new board has 4-pin rgb header on it, and im looking for a good and cheap LED strip (or two) to put into my new Pro M .. suggestions? I see one or two from performance PCs but its like $20 for a small strip and then on ebay I see some that are 5 meters for less than that.. so wheres the balance? ive never used rgb led lighting before, but i want to pout the header to good use as i wont have to mess with an external controller


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *michaelrw*
> 
> my new board has 4-pin rgb header on it, and im looking for a good and cheap LED strip (or two) to put into my new Pro M .. suggestions? I see one or two from performance PCs but its like $20 for a small strip and then on ebay I see some that are 5 meters for less than that.. so wheres the balance? ive never used rgb led lighting before, but i want to pout the header to good use as i wont have to mess with an external controller


I found this one on Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/Phanteks-Multi-Color-Strips-Upgrade-PH-LEDKT_M1/dp/B00M0R2OTG

Here is a shorter one: https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811984009


----------



## OneFunGenesis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *michaelrw*
> 
> my new board has 4-pin rgb header on it, and im looking for a good and cheap LED strip (or two) to put into my new Pro M .. suggestions? I see one or two from performance PCs but its like $20 for a small strip and then on ebay I see some that are 5 meters for less than that.. so wheres the balance? ive never used rgb led lighting before, but i want to pout the header to good use as i wont have to mess with an external controller


I used the $5 ebay strips. The adhesive sucks so I also bought magnetic tape ($7 for 25 ft) and made my own magnetic strips.

If your board has an RGB header, then you can control the strip from software and not a controller....


----------



## ExcellentAmp

I raised my Enthoo Primo up off of the table that it sits on and my temps in my custom loop improved by an average of 8c. Tested whilst gaming for an entire weekend.


----------



## dlewbell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *warpedsoul*
> 
> Hello. I bought the Phanteks Enthoo Luxe Series PH-ES614L_BK case. I installed 2 140mm fans in front, moved the 200mm fan to the top rear, and wanting to install a 140mm on the bottom. I can't seem to figure out where it goes as I can't get the mounting holes to line up. Any advice?
> 
> Also, not a big deal, but on my case, the back right (if you're looking at the front of the case) part of the mesh sticks up. It sill locks in place fine, but kind of bugs me. Anyone else have this issue or know how to fix it?


You have 2 options. The case was designed for the 140mm fan to be installed closer to the PSU, & has slots at both ends to accommodate that. The other option is to buy 6-32x1.25 (or metric equivalent) screws & cheat by using the 2 holes at the front of the case in conjunction with the forward pair of 140mm slots as seen in the picture below. It's a little tricky to get both front bolts in, but it does work.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ExcellentAmp*
> 
> I raised my Enthoo Primo up off of the table that it sits on and my temps in my custom loop improved by an average of 8c. Tested whilst gaming for an entire weekend.


Just curious, where did you get the idea to raise it up? 1st post of thread has a link to caster base for Primo and airflow area of case setting on table / floor or raised on blocks or caster base, in case you haven't seen the airflow area difference.








http://www.overclock.net/t/1418637/official-case-phanteks-case-club-for-lovers-owners/14760_20#post_25457818


----------



## ExcellentAmp

I got the idea from you Doyll. Sorry for not giving you credit in the previous post. I read your post on raising it up on the caster base and figured it was worth a shot. My gpu temps whilst gaming went from the low 50s to low 40s. Thanks again!!


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ExcellentAmp*
> 
> I got the idea from you Doyll. Sorry for not giving you credit in the previous post. I read your post on raising it up on the caster base and figured it was worth a shot. My gpu temps whilst gaming went from the low 50s to low 40s. Thanks again!!


Glad to be able to help. Helping each other is what it's all about.


----------



## IcedDog

I recently completed a new rig using the Evolv ATX TG...man, what a cool case, and a joy to build in. I love the combination of style and features that Phanteks puts into their enclosures...and judging by what I've seen in this thread, they have great customer service as well...always nice to support a company like that. Hopefully I can keep the tempered glass in good shape down the road







Cheers

https://pcpartpicker.com/b/rf8Ycf


----------



## kaiqi07

Just to share my new build. First time user of phanteks case and am sure a happy one.

Had done up a new rig to replace my old rig which I had decommissioned one month ago. Chose Phanteks Evolv ATX as I really like the look.

The quality is really damn good, coming from a ex user of Caselabs STH10. This casing really impresses me a lot. Love the touch of the alu panels. Only complain is if only the PSU chamber is a bit higher. easier to hide and route cables.

Coming from a full custom WC build to the new present AIO WC build. A very big difference... not really used to the higher temps that I am experiencing now.

*Previous Build: Project Rampage II*









But on the brighter side, now I can just change the parts especially GPU as often as I like haha.

I did up myself a new set of cables and completed this build. This casing Phanteks Evolv ATX Tempered Glass really damn challenging as one has to cable manage it nicely on both sides....

Had to hide my NZXT Hue and Grid Controller in other locations instead of the PSU chamber.

Been doing up cables for all my clients and today here is the new cables I done up for myself... Initially had used Gold, White, Black color scheme but I find its not really that nice after fixing it up especially under RGB LEDs. So swapped out the gold and replaced it with Silver Grey sleeves.

*
Front*









*Rear*









Also bought some new tones of carbon fibre stickers to pimp my SSDs. Using Titanium Grey for my SSDs and Black for my PSU.

Build components:
Intel i7 7700k
Asus Maximums IX Forumla
G Skill Trident Z RGB DDR4 8gb X 4 3200
Gigabyte G1 Gaming 1080GTX SLI
Seagate Constellation ES3 3TB X2
Samsung Evo 850 250gb M.2 (boot drive)
Samsung Evo 850 500gb Sata X3
Phanteks Evolv ATX TG Grey
Seasonic X850


----------



## nycgtr

IMPRESSIVE wiring.


----------



## IcedDog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nycgtr*
> 
> IMPRESSIVE wiring.


I second that, very nice! Your previous Rampage rig looks amazing as well.


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nycgtr*
> 
> IMPRESSIVE wiring.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IcedDog*
> 
> I second that, very nice! Your previous Rampage rig looks amazing as well.


I third that. Really impressive wiring, especially on the back which is really essential with the dual TG panels.


----------



## pez

I think lowfat would be proud of that wiring *tear*.

I did the same exact thing with my sleeved extensions on the (same) GPUs before. Great looking build there.


----------



## Splash74

I got my Elite yesterday went to pick it up just so you so how massive the case is daunting almost .


The car is an Audi A4 2011 Model for reference in size .


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kaiqi07*
> 
> Just to share my new build. First time user of phanteks case and am sure a happy one.
> 
> Had done up a new rig to replace my old rig which I had decommissioned one month ago. Chose Phanteks Evolv ATX as I really like the look.
> 
> The quality is really damn good, coming from a ex user of Caselabs STH10. This casing really impresses me a lot. Love the touch of the alu panels. Only complain is if only the PSU chamber is a bit higher. easier to hide and route cables.
> 
> Coming from a full custom WC build to the new present AIO WC build. A very big difference... not really used to the higher temps that I am experiencing now.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> *Previous Build: Project Rampage II*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But on the brighter side, now I can just change the parts especially GPU as often as I like haha.
> 
> I did up myself a new set of cables and completed this build. This casing Phanteks Evolv ATX Tempered Glass really damn challenging as one has to cable manage it nicely on both sides....
> 
> Had to hide my NZXT Hue and Grid Controller in other locations instead of the PSU chamber.
> 
> Been doing up cables for all my clients and today here is the new cables I done up for myself... Initially had used Gold, White, Black color scheme but I find its not really that nice after fixing it up especially under RGB LEDs. So swapped out the gold and replaced it with Silver Grey sleeves.
> 
> *
> Front*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Rear*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also bought some new tones of carbon fibre stickers to pimp my SSDs. Using Titanium Grey for my SSDs and Black for my PSU.
> 
> Build components:
> Intel i7 7700k
> Asus Maximums IX Forumla
> G Skill Trident Z RGB DDR4 8gb X 4 3200
> Gigabyte G1 Gaming 1080GTX SLI
> Seagate Constellation ES3 3TB X2
> Samsung Evo 850 250gb M.2 (boot drive)
> Samsung Evo 850 500gb Sata X3
> Phanteks Evolv ATX TG Grey
> Seasonic X850


Your CLC is glaringly missing from component list. Was that a Freudian slip?









Like others have said, it's subtle use of greys really sets your build off!


----------



## ExcellentAmp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Splash74*
> 
> I got my Elite yesterday went to pick it up just so you so how massive the case is daunting almost .
> 
> 
> The car is an Audi A4 2011 Model for reference in size .


Can't wait to see the final results. This case looks amazing so I'm sure so high end builds will result


----------



## exploiteddna

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> I found this one on Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/Phanteks-Multi-Color-Strips-Upgrade-PH-LEDKT_M1/dp/B00M0R2OTG
> 
> Here is a shorter one: https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811984009


good deal thanks for the info. ill def use these if im unable to find a cheaper solution. i do like that second cheap one though.. will need to see about more cabling for it though..

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneFunGenesis*
> 
> I used the $5 ebay strips. The adhesive sucks so I also bought magnetic tape ($7 for 25 ft) and made my own magnetic strips.
> 
> If your board has an RGB header, then you can control the strip from software and not a controller....


Yeah thats what i plan on doing.. can you link me to the products you used specifically?


----------



## Zarotu

Between the Enthoo Evolv ATX and the TG version, what are the main differences. I like the first one because of the side panel covering up the PSU and my terrible cable management. But I also like the TG version with its RGB lighting.


----------



## w-moffatt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kaiqi07*
> 
> Just to share my new build. First time user of phanteks case and am sure a happy one.
> 
> Had done up a new rig to replace my old rig which I had decommissioned one month ago. Chose Phanteks Evolv ATX as I really like the look.
> 
> The quality is really damn good, coming from a ex user of Caselabs STH10. This casing really impresses me a lot. Love the touch of the alu panels. Only complain is if only the PSU chamber is a bit higher. easier to hide and route cables.
> 
> Coming from a full custom WC build to the new present AIO WC build. A very big difference... not really used to the higher temps that I am experiencing now.
> 
> *Previous Build: Project Rampage II*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But on the brighter side, now I can just change the parts especially GPU as often as I like haha.
> 
> I did up myself a new set of cables and completed this build. This casing Phanteks Evolv ATX Tempered Glass really damn challenging as one has to cable manage it nicely on both sides....
> 
> Had to hide my NZXT Hue and Grid Controller in other locations instead of the PSU chamber.
> 
> Been doing up cables for all my clients and today here is the new cables I done up for myself... Initially had used Gold, White, Black color scheme but I find its not really that nice after fixing it up especially under RGB LEDs. So swapped out the gold and replaced it with Silver Grey sleeves.
> 
> Also bought some new tones of carbon fibre stickers to pimp my SSDs. Using Titanium Grey for my SSDs and Black for my PSU.
> 
> Build components:
> Intel i7 7700k
> Asus Maximums IX Forumla
> G Skill Trident Z RGB DDR4 8gb X 4 3200
> Gigabyte G1 Gaming 1080GTX SLI
> Seagate Constellation ES3 3TB X2
> Samsung Evo 850 250gb M.2 (boot drive)
> Samsung Evo 850 500gb Sata X3
> Phanteks Evolv ATX TG Grey
> Seasonic X850


Good Lord! That cable management is spectacular. I would never have the patience for that level hence why i went the p400 TG. Good work man!


----------



## Splash74

That's a super nice build m8 it's like my project we are 3 ppl involved in project.

*Phanteks ROG Elite edition 10[/B*] AKA *CASELABSKILLER[/B*] That one our goals with phanteks new Elite case that it is really a premium option instead of caselabs cases .


----------



## exploiteddna

http://imgur.com/I8juyMX




http://imgur.com/14N5JqB




http://imgur.com/eaJz3OT




http://imgur.com/4Xa75zE



Well, I finally got the case, the Pro M with Tempered Glass panel. I thought the packaging was a little overkill, but I am certainly not complaining because I'd rather too much than too little.. especially given the nature of tempered glass (which is actually quite resistant to shattering, but when it does.. watch out.. it turns into thousands of small pieces). Also got the new motherboard, primochill 120mm Phase II res with d5 pump, EK FC block for my 1070, and a new set of 3200 DDR4 tridentX.. Now im just waiting for the CPU to get here, along with a new HDD. I think I'll try to do a proper build log, and will definitely update this thread with case-relevant content as it progresses. I've never squeezed a loop into a mid tower before.. well, thats sort of a lie.. i had one in a corsair 500r about 5 years ago, but then upgraded into NZXT Switch 810, but I digress. At any rate, I think this will be fun, but will also be a challenge. It's clear that I am also lacking on some important aesthetic components.. like a backplate for the GPU, LED strip (in progress), and need to decide on coolant color/additive (if any)


----------



## Splash74

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ExcellentAmp*
> 
> Can't wait to see the final results. This case looks amazing so I'm sure so high end builds will result


Well we have set the final decisions concerning design and parts for the project and ordered customsleeving from PEXON he makes awesome stuff and he just got MDPC-X https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0651/0379/products/MG_7443_large.jpg?v=1480009531 they are so really nice looking so couple of weeks they will arrive hopefully.
Placed an order from Singularlty Computers from down under , and we will use his
protium reservoirs they are uber https://www.singularitycomputers.com/shop/watercooling/protium-large/irs
And we will use their awesome dual Etherial reservoir mounts in red https://www.singularitycomputers.com/shop/watercooling/reservoir-mount-ethereal-dual-60mm-billet/
And we have placed an order from Moonson for custom etched matte black fittings and the ASUS ROG emblem in grey so its going to highly custom this build so lets hope it will be worth it in the end.


----------



## kaiqi07

Yea, using the grey to kinda highlight. Was using black carbon fibre vinyls for the ssd initially till swapped it for titanium grey ones. Took the photo sitting on the wooden cabinet so ppl won't thinks It's black and white photo.


----------



## pez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *michaelrw*
> 
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/I8juyMX
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/14N5JqB
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/eaJz3OT
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/4Xa75zE
> 
> 
> 
> Well, I finally got the case, the Pro M with Tempered Glass panel. I thought the packaging was a little overkill, but I am certainly not complaining because I'd rather too much than too little.. especially given the nature of tempered glass (which is actually quite resistant to shattering, but when it does.. watch out.. it turns into thousands of small pieces). Also got the new motherboard, primochill 120mm Phase II res with d5 pump, EK FC block for my 1070, and a new set of 3200 DDR4 tridentX.. Now im just waiting for the CPU to get here, along with a new HDD. I think I'll try to do a proper build log, and will definitely update this thread with case-relevant content as it progresses. I've never squeezed a loop into a mid tower before.. well, thats sort of a lie.. i had one in a corsair 500r about 5 years ago, but then upgraded into NZXT Switch 810, but I digress. At any rate, I think this will be fun, but will also be a challenge. It's clear that I am also lacking on some important aesthetic components.. like a backplate for the GPU, LED strip (in progress), and need to decide on coolant color/additive (if any)


Very eager to see the end result







. I love seeing Pro M builds....they're not as popular as the Evolv ATX TG and I love that it's the quiet 'underdog'







.


----------



## geriatricpollywog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Splash74*
> 
> I got my Elite yesterday went to pick it up just so you so how massive the case is daunting almost .
> 
> 
> The car is an Audi A4 2011 Model for reference in size .


They need to ship that case in something you can re-use as luggage. I'd hate to throw that nice box away.


----------



## Sazexa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0451*
> 
> They need to ship that case in something you can re-use as luggage. I'd hate to throw that nice box away.


You can reuse the box. I think Phanteks said you can even just use it as a plain old luggage box in general.


----------



## seng

Just sharing my second build in Phanteks Enthoo Evolv ATX, lovely chassis. This is also my first custom water loop.

Asus x99 Deluxe II
I7 6850k @4.2
Titan X Pascal @2048


----------



## jsarver

my elite should be here monday. picked up the grey version. will have photos up asap


----------



## exploiteddna

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seng*
> 
> Just sharing my second build in Phanteks Enthoo Evolv ATX, lovely chassis. This is also my first custom water loop.
> 
> Asus x99 Deluxe II
> I7 6850k @4.2
> Titan X Pascal @2048
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


very nice. how many feet of tubing did you end up using? what liquid/additive did you use?


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seng*
> 
> Just sharing my second build in Phanteks Enthoo Evolv ATX, lovely chassis. This is also my first custom water loop.
> 
> Asus x99 Deluxe II
> I7 6850k @4.2
> Titan X Pascal @2048
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Nice looking build. And a nice break from looking at hardline, this type of setup flows so much better.


----------



## Splash74

Custom PSU sleeved cables with suitable colors for the ROG theme
Well I'll post some crappy iPhone pics sorry new phone soon will be better ?


----------



## IcedDog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seng*
> 
> Just sharing my second build in Phanteks Enthoo Evolv ATX, lovely chassis. This is also my first custom water loop.
> 
> Asus x99 Deluxe II
> I7 6850k @4.2
> Titan X Pascal @2048
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Cool and classy, let's see some more pics!


----------



## Perfect_Chaos

I have an original Enthoo Luxe, can anyone tell me if there is any possible way to fit 2 x 240mm radiators at the same time, front and bottom? Even with thinner 30mm rads?

If not i was just wondering how well a 360 & 240 rad with low spinning fans at no more than 500-800rpm would cool both a overclocked cpu and single gpu.

Was hoping there would be room to squeeze an extra 240 rad at the bottom somehow, even if it's a possibility with slight modding.


----------



## seng

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *michaelrw*
> 
> very nice. how many feet of tubing did you end up using? what liquid/additive did you use?


I am using PrimoChill tubing so they come in 3m length and I've used about half (could be less if I did not cut too short on some tubes). The coolant is EK Ekoolant EVO Clear Premix.


----------



## rayven1lk

Have an Enthoo Evolv ATX. Any idea how I could vertically mount my GPU on it?


----------



## exploiteddna

I could really use someone's opinion. Can't decide res mounting position. These are the two options. Mounted vertical, the line into the res is really s close to the outlet from the rad. Horizontal I think can look cool but I'm also not sure about it. Mounted horizontal, the outlet will be on the inner side, closer to the MB. So I'd probably run out the pump, into the GPU, into the CPU, then over to the rad, and back down to the res.
 
Thoughts anyone? I need to decide so I can start securing other components like the PSU. Refer to the photos to see the two options.


----------



## w-moffatt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *michaelrw*
> 
> I could really use someone's opinion. Can't decide res mounting position. These are the two options. Mounted vertical, the line into the res is really s close to the outlet from the rad. Horizontal I think can look cool but I'm also not sure about it. Mounted horizontal, the outlet will be on the inner side, closer to the MB. So I'd probably run out the pump, into the GPU, into the CPU, then over to the rad, and back down to the res.
> 
> Thoughts anyone? I need to decide so I can start securing other components like the PSU. Refer to the photos to see the two options.


Horizontal looks much much better, i get the pain put of the outlet tho.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *michaelrw*
> 
> I could really use someone's opinion. Can't decide res mounting position. These are the two options. Mounted vertical, the line into the res is really s close to the outlet from the rad. Horizontal I think can look cool but I'm also not sure about it. Mounted horizontal, the outlet will be on the inner side, closer to the MB. So I'd probably run out the pump, into the GPU, into the CPU, then over to the rad, and back down to the res.
> 
> Thoughts anyone? I need to decide so I can start securing other components like the PSU. Refer to the photos to see the two options.


I am a vote for vertical - especially with a res that size. Horizontal leaves a huge open space that says "shouldn't something be here?". I went through the same dilemma when I built mine, but the choice was very clear when all of the components were in.


----------



## exploiteddna

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *w-moffatt*
> 
> Horizontal looks much much better, i get the pain put of the outlet tho.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> I am a vote for vertical - especially with a res that size. Horizontal leaves a huge open space that says "shouldn't something be here?". I went through the same dilemma when I built mine, but the choice was very clear when all of the components were in.


thanks guys, much appreciated.. im glad the answer isnt straightforward, and means no matter what i choose it should be fine.. I am leaning towards vertical though..

On a different note, When i started to lay the tubing last night, I realized that I completely muffed the order... somehow i managed to order the wrong OD, making all of my 3/8x1/2 compression fittings useless... I'm so lucky that I live an hour away from frozencpu and can go pick up some emergency supplies. Will be going to get the correct tubing in a few hours, and im also going to pick up a few additional items that have come up as the build has been moving along.

For example, I really need some sort of fan header for the Enthoo Pro M... for some reason I was under the impression that it came with some sort of el cheapo circuit board with a bunch of fan headers on it. Clearly I got confused by comparing and contrasting all the different case options for so long. In terms of the fan headers.. I do have a fan controller (5.25") that I wont be able to use anymore because I have removed the ODD bay to make more room.. I am thinking that I May be able to dismantle the controller, and just use the PCB with headers on it.. obviously this would remove the ability to regulate speeds, but thats to be expected.. Im still not 100% sure it would work, as Ive never tried anything like that before.. Thoughts (from anyone who is more electronically inclined than I) ??

Finally, I need want to get some coolant additive/dye.. ill be using distilled water of course, but I have decided if i want to add anything, and if so, what. perhaps this is something I should pose over in the watercooling sub..


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *michaelrw*
> 
> Finally, I need want to get some coolant additive/dye.. ill be using distilled water of course, but I have decided if i want to add anything, and if so, what. perhaps this is something I should pose over in the watercooling sub..


IMO, if you need want dye to stain all of your components and possibly fall out of suspension to achieve a certain look, go with a concentrate that already includes dye. This way you are getting the biocides and ant-scaling additives you need in one easy bottle.

Or just use colored tubing.


----------



## exploiteddna

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> IMO, if you need want dye to stain all of your components and possibly fall out of suspension to achieve a certain look, go with a concentrate that already includes dye. This way you are getting the biocides and ant-scaling additives you need in one easy bottle.
> 
> Or just use colored tubing.


ive used color tubing in the past and im not a fan.. theres something about knowing im looking at the actual fluid in the tubing as opposed to solid tubing ... im not opposed to any solution.. but, i dont want to use colored tubing and, if possible would like to have something other than clear water.. but, if thats not practical, then water it is.. i thought that the whole 'dye is terrible for your system' was sort of an archaic way of thinking.. maybe that still holds true?? You see a ton of people, like big name people on YT, using mayhems and other stuff like that in their builds and recommending/endorsing it... obviously 'marketing' but still..


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *michaelrw*
> 
> ive used color tubing in the past and im not a fan.. theres something about knowing im looking at the actual fluid in the tubing as opposed to solid tubing ... im not opposed to any solution.. but, i dont want to use colored tubing and, if possible would like to have something other than clear water.. but, if thats not practical, then water it is.. i thought that the whole 'dye is terrible for your system' was sort of an archaic way of thinking.. maybe that still holds true?? You see a ton of people, like big name people on YT, using mayhems and other stuff like that in their builds and recommending/endorsing it... obviously 'marketing' but still..


You mean the "big name" people on YT who don't pay for their components and simply have them replaced when something goes wrong? The ones who are actually compensated for using certain products? The ones who really could care less about your rig as long as they are getting hits? Those "big name" people?









It's rare for dye to fall out of suspension, but it will stain your components (so, color change many times means a res change) and can gunk up in blocks.


----------



## exploiteddna

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> You mean the "big name" people on YT who don't pay for their components and simply have them replaced when something goes wrong? The ones who are actually compensated for using certain products? The ones who really could care less about your rig as long as they are getting hits? Those "big name" people?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's rare for dye to fall out of suspension, but it will stain your components (so, color change many times means a res change) and can gunk up in blocks.


Lol i knew this was coming but I had to put it out there. Yeah, those big name people. All of your points are valid, but idk..
anyways, I'm going with a white black build (or anything on the grayscale really), and I want to have clear tubing and I don't want clear fluid. But maybe function trumps aesthetics in this case. I ended up just picking up some clear coolant from frozencpu that can have a die added later if I so choose. We'll see. I've always ran plain distilled water with a little bit of pt nuke in it. But I also had white tubing. Anyways.. we'll see how it goes


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *michaelrw*
> 
> Lol i knew this was coming but I had to put it out there. Yeah, those big name people. All of your points are valid, but idk..
> anyways, I'm going with a white black build (or anything on the grayscale really), and I want to have clear tubing and I don't want clear fluid. But maybe function trumps aesthetics in this case. I ended up just picking up some clear coolant from frozencpu that can have a die added later if I so choose. We'll see. I've always ran plain distilled water with a little bit of pt nuke in it. But I also had white tubing. Anyways.. we'll see how it goes


I know the ins and outs of those people better than most.









My build is actually all black and white (Monsoon MMRS, all white fittings, black tubing). And I have to admit....every time I order fluid I am tempted to get white. But, since I no longer have the luxury of having all of my components replaced on a whim, I have steered away from it.


----------



## Splash74

Yea, using the grey to kinda highlight. Was using black carbon fibre vinyls for the ssd initially till swapped it for titanium grey ones. Took the photo sitting on the wooden cabinet so ppl won't thinks It's black and white photo.[/quote]

Ive been getting some amazing help from OverclockersUK and have maybe hopefully sponsor climbing abord,I going to finish the presentation of the project so a lot of possibilities could be really happen we hope anyway .

I'm on a crusade vs the Caselabs fanboys on a mission to prove that Phanteks is the ultimate ready to go configured case to ppl ,most of all showing the capacity of this gem of a case.

Buildupdate have mailed parvum systems and going to order custom various parts it will all be revealed soon so bara with me , this week parts are incoming like bullets its hard to organize everything must come together so I spend a lot of time just searching for exampel modd good deals on hardware
Got a custom ROG theme SLI adapter.
And custom fittings from moonson order
Here is a few items that are custom built ordered I'll paste some pictures.



With humble Regards Splash74


----------



## Splash74

Already found a good use for exampel new parts ordered is drowning my office space haha so all nes parts i chuck in the case ATM hahah


----------



## nizmoz

Love mine!


----------



## exploiteddna

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> I know the ins and outs of those people better than most.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My build is actually all black and white (Monsoon MMRS, all white fittings, black tubing). And I have to admit....every time I order fluid I am tempted to get white. But, since I no longer have the luxury of having all of my components replaced on a whim, I have steered away from it.


Yeah, I can definitely appreciate that. I may look into a few different white solutions (no pun intended) to see what type of wear and tear users have been seeing. Ultimately, it may be worth it to me. But.. for now, I'm just sticking with dH2O


----------



## SLOWION

Got a chance to play with the P400 tempered glass



















I like it overall despite being sort of an entry level case, the tempered glass is super nice

Also made a cringey review if anyone cares


----------



## Dorito Bandit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SLOWION*
> 
> Got a chance to play with the P400 tempered glass
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I like it overall despite being sort of an entry level case, the tempered glass is super nice
> 
> Also made a cringey review if anyone cares
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Nice case and review, bud.


----------



## The Ferret

Still having so much trouble cooling my Enthoo Evolv ATX.

The heat around my 1080 just seems to hang around it and I can never move it well until the whole inside of the case gets warm which then reduces the efficiency of my rad.



I have two 140mm on the front, a single 140mm Phantek case fan on the exhaust and a 3x Vardars on the radiator. All running at at least 70% with the front slightly pried open and the top now completely off the case.

I am thinking of possibly putting my 1080 in the waterloop with a block from EK and hoping that because the case won't heat up, then overall the performance will be better. Thoughts?

Idling at 31c, then idles at 40c after gaming for a little while just from the ambient heat in the case.

ASUS Z270-E motherboard
i7 7700k - Default clocked at 4.5ghz (The temperatures are really spikey)
EVGA 1080 at default clock speeds.


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The Ferret*
> 
> Still having so much trouble cooling my Enthoo Evolv ATX.
> 
> The heat around my 1080 just seems to hang around it and I can never move it well until the whole inside of the case gets warm which then reduces the efficiency of my rad.
> 
> 
> 
> I have two 140mm on the front, a single 140mm Phantek case fan on the exhaust and a 3x Vardars on the radiator. All running at at least 70% with the front slightly pried open and the top now completely off the case.
> 
> I am thinking of possibly putting my 1080 in the waterloop with a block from EK and hoping that because the case won't heat up, then overall the performance will be better. Thoughts?
> 
> Idling at 31c, then idles at 40c after gaming for a little while just from the ambient heat in the case.
> 
> ASUS Z270-E motherboard
> i7 7700k - Default clocked at 4.5ghz (The temperatures are really spikey)
> EVGA 1080 at default clock speeds.


First, the usual... check TIM application and reapply TIM if necessary (CPU & GPU). Check CPU block seating. I've lost count the number of times this has been the cause of people's problems

Other than that... I would try moving the back fan to exhaust since the top rad is likely getting enough *cool air* from the two front fans. Putting the back as intake is best when you have top and front rads. IMO it will be more optimal pulling warm GPU air away from the top rad. Other than that, you could try moving the pump/res to the back corner (about where an SLI bridge would be) and then moving the top rad to the front (or move rad to front and if res fits, mount it on the rad). This would be a lot of work but IMO if you have 1x rad in an Evolv, I would front mount it over top mounting. Obviously this kills your 2x bottom HDD mounts (1x 3.5" is still available in the middle).

Example of the second option:


----------



## The Ferret

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> First, the usual... check TIM application and reapply TIM if necessary (CPU & GPU). Check CPU block seating. I've lost count the number of times this has been the cause of people's problems
> 
> Other than that... I would try moving the back fan to exhaust since the top rad is likely getting enough *cool air* from the two front fans. Putting the back as intake is best when you have top and front rads. IMO it will be more optimal pulling warm GPU air away from the top rad. Other than that, you could try moving the pump/res to the back corner (about where an SLI bridge would be) and then moving the top rad to the front (or move rad to front and if res fits, mount it on the rad). This would be a lot of work but IMO if you have 1x rad in an Evolv, I would front mount it over top mounting. Obviously this kills your 2x bottom HDD mounts (1x 3.5" is still available in the middle).
> 
> Example of the second option:


Embarrassingly I still have a 3.5" drive in there as I can't fit everything on my 500GB SSD.

I have tried the back fan as both intake and exhaust but seems to be similar. Just can't seem to get hot air out of the case, which is my main worry as summer is quickly approaching.

My train of thought would be if I have my GPU in the loop, then the inside of the case will be cool and the top rad will have cold air from inside the case. (I kinda regret getting the EVGA 1080 as it just seems to kick out far too much heat, along with the recent upgrade to the 7700k)


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The Ferret*
> 
> Embarrassingly I still have a 3.5" drive in there as I can't fit everything on my 500GB SSD.
> 
> I have tried the back fan as both intake and exhaust but seems to be similar. Just can't seem to get hot air out of the case, which is my main worry as summer is quickly approaching.
> 
> My train of thought would be if I have my GPU in the loop, then the inside of the case will be cool and the top rad will have cold air from inside the case. (I kinda regret getting the EVGA 1080 as it just seems to kick out far too much heat, along with the recent upgrade to the 7700k)


Please excuse the mess, but you can still install a single HDD in the bottom with a front mounted rad (just need to buy the bracket separately).



The problem likely isn't cool air vs warm air... its that the top of the Evolv is very restrictive. 3x120mm fans + an EK XE rad (???) + the Evolv's top is a bad combo. If the rad is doing its job, some warm GPU air isn't going to be a big problem. This config would be better regardless if you water cool your GPU or not.


----------



## The Ferret

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> Please excuse the mess, but you can still install a single HDD in the bottom with a front mounted rad (just need to buy the bracket separately).
> 
> 
> 
> The problem likely isn't cool air vs warm air... its that the top of the Evolv is very restrictive. 3x120mm fans + an EK XE rad (???) + the Evolv's top is a bad combo. If the rad is doing its job, some warm GPU air isn't going to be a big problem. This config would be better regardless if you water cool your GPU or not.


That actually looks like a good idea. What is the bracket for the HDD?

I top out at 77c so far while playing a game so that will have to do. The top isn't restrictive at the moment as I am not having the top on the case. I will look into getting a GPU waterblock and move the radiator to the front.

Will a 360mm rad handle both a GTX 1080, and a i7 7700k? Maybe picking up a 140mm rad for the exhaust be worth while?

Front have my 360 radiator with the pump mounted on it, leading to the pump then the GPU, then the exhaust 140m rad and finally CPU to main rad?


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The Ferret*
> 
> That actually looks like a good idea. What is the bracket for the HDD?
> 
> I top out at 77c so far while playing a game so that will have to do. The top isn't restrictive at the moment as I am not having the top on the case. I will look into getting a GPU waterblock and move the radiator to the front.
> 
> Will a 360mm rad handle both a GTX 1080, and a i7 7700k? Maybe picking up a 140mm rad for the exhaust be worth while?
> 
> Front have my 360 radiator with the pump mounted on it, leading to the pump then the GPU, then the exhaust 140m rad and finally CPU to main rad?


Phanteks 3.5 HDD bracket.

Since prices between rads are very little I would just buy a 240/280mm rad for the top. EK PE or CE (not SE). I would do res>pump>GPU>CPU>top rad>front rad>res but it doesn't really matter.

If you are brave, you may want to consider deliding your 7700K. With a delid tool (Rockit88) it is pretty easy and low risk.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The Ferret*
> 
> Embarrassingly I still have a 3.5" drive in there as I can't fit everything on my 500GB SSD.
> 
> I have tried the back fan as both intake and exhaust but seems to be similar. Just can't seem to get hot air out of the case, which is my main worry as summer is quickly approaching.
> 
> My train of thought would be if I have my GPU in the loop, then the inside of the case will be cool and the top rad will have cold air from inside the case. (I kinda regret getting the EVGA 1080 as it just seems to kick out far too much heat, along with the recent upgrade to the 7700k)


Radiator with 3x EK Vardar are top mount as exhaust? With top off it should cool fin with front and back as intakes.


----------



## The Ferret

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> Phanteks 3.5 HDD bracket.
> 
> Since prices between rads are very little I would just buy a 240/280mm rad for the top. EK PE or CE (not SE). I would do res>pump>GPU>CPU>top rad>front rad>res but it doesn't really matter.
> 
> If you are brave, you may want to consider deliding your 7700K. With a delid tool (Rockit88) it is pretty easy and low risk.


I will definitely need to have a look in measuring my case out. Looks like it will be a really tight fit to get my radiator into the front with the reservoir + Pump combo mounted on to it from the graphics card and will probably need some 90 degree angle fittings so I can face the pump inlet/outlet towards to the side panel.

All in all with another 280mm radiator for the top and front and back plate, I am looking at about £260. So want to make sure it fits.


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The Ferret*
> 
> I will definitely need to have a look in measuring my case out. Looks like it will be a really tight fit to get my radiator into the front with the reservoir + Pump combo mounted on to it from the graphics card and will probably need some 90 degree angle fittings so I can face the pump inlet/outlet towards to the side panel.
> 
> All in all with another 280mm radiator for the top and front and back plate, I am looking at about £260. So want to make sure it fits.


A single XE 360 should be enough. You may not see "the lowest temps possible" but I can't imagine it getting overly stressed. I would start out by just testing the 360 in the front and measuring things out. Then test the temps without a block. Then buy the block and another rad if needed/wanted.


----------



## SLOWION

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dorito Bandit*
> 
> [/SPOILER]
> 
> Nice case and review, bud.


thanks man


----------



## The Ferret

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> A single XE 360 should be enough. You may not see "the lowest temps possible" but I can't imagine it getting overly stressed. I would start out by just testing the 360 in the front and measuring things out. Then test the temps without a block. Then buy the block and another rad if needed/wanted.


Mine is only a 360 PE but I don't feel it would be that much difference.

I just having a lot of trouble trying to visualise how to mount the pump/reservoir combo as I was having a hard time actually getting the holes to line up with the area where the spare HDD cages can go, so had to opt to using the mounting bracket onto the front fan.

Sounds like a good project to have a look into, cheers


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The Ferret*
> 
> Still having so much trouble cooling my Enthoo Evolv ATX.
> 
> The heat around my 1080 just seems to hang around it and I can never move it well until the whole inside of the case gets warm which then reduces the efficiency of my rad.
> 
> 
> 
> I have two 140mm on the front, a single 140mm Phantek case fan on the exhaust and a 3x Vardars on the radiator. All running at at least 70% with the front slightly pried open and the top now completely off the case.
> 
> I am thinking of possibly putting my 1080 in the waterloop with a block from EK and hoping that because the case won't heat up, then overall the performance will be better. Thoughts?
> 
> Idling at 31c, then idles at 40c after gaming for a little while just from the ambient heat in the case.
> 
> ASUS Z270-E motherboard
> i7 7700k - Default clocked at 4.5ghz (The temperatures are really spikey)
> EVGA 1080 at default clock speeds.


Have you sealed off the openings in the rad mount to keep the exhaust from the rad from simply recirculating back into the case?


----------



## OutlawII

Are your rad fans exhausting? Here is what i would do,Rad fans intake front fan intake rear fan exhaust.


----------



## eXistencelies

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The Ferret*
> 
> Still having so much trouble cooling my Enthoo Evolv ATX.
> 
> The heat around my 1080 just seems to hang around it and I can never move it well until the whole inside of the case gets warm which then reduces the efficiency of my rad.
> 
> 
> 
> I have two 140mm on the front, a single 140mm Phantek case fan on the exhaust and a 3x Vardars on the radiator. All running at at least 70% with the front slightly pried open and the top now completely off the case.
> 
> I am thinking of possibly putting my 1080 in the waterloop with a block from EK and hoping that because the case won't heat up, then overall the performance will be better. Thoughts?
> 
> Idling at 31c, then idles at 40c after gaming for a little while just from the ambient heat in the case.
> 
> ASUS Z270-E motherboard
> i7 7700k - Default clocked at 4.5ghz (The temperatures are really spikey)
> EVGA 1080 at default clock speeds.


Hey if you end up going with a water block. I have both my EKWB and EKBP from my 1080 for sale.. I upgraded to a 1080ti and I sold my old 1080. This is for founders edition though.


----------



## paskowitz

Quick favor, could an Evolv ATX TG owner take a picture of the top circuit panel (power button, less, etc) with all the plugs in their proper spot? I need to put mine back in and I don't want to screw it up. That or a list of which cables goes where, left to right.


----------



## nycgtr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> Quick favor, could an Evolv ATX TG owner take a picture of the top circuit panel (power button, less, etc) with all the plugs in their proper spot? I need to put mine back in and I don't want to screw it up. That or a list of which cables goes where, left to right.


The pcb is labeled. I just replaced mine and I didn't pay attention when swapping but then I noticed it's labeled. There will be 1 pin on the last 5 set of pins from the right side that is not used.


----------



## III-Method-III

I hope this isnt a devisive request!

But might any of you guys be able to help me decide between 3 cases - kinda pro's and cons?

For context Im pretty much sold on a Ryzen 8 core 1700 which I will OC as far as I can
I will use a CL AIO (probably the Kraken X62) 280mm rad for the CPU
I am going to get a 1080Ti and intend to get either a reference card and do my own water conversion using an EVGA 140mm CL cooler or i will get an EVGA hybrid when they release

Back to the case choice:

Enthoo Evolv (Tempered glass) - i have concerns about the top exhaust - Im guessing the main CPU rad in front as intake, the GPU rad back rear as an exhaust and the top fans as exhaust?
Enthoo Luxe (tempered glass)
Corsair Crystal 460X (the arguably bigger 570X has an appaling PSU cover or lack of it and seems ill thought through)

Thanks for any responses!

Meth


----------



## nycgtr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *III-Method-III*
> 
> I hope this isnt a devisive request!
> 
> But might any of you guys be able to help me decide between 3 cases - kinda pro's and cons?
> 
> For context Im pretty much sold on a Ryzen 8 core 1700 which I will OC as far as I can
> I will use a CL AIO (probably the Kraken X62) 280mm rad for the CPU
> I am going to get a 1080Ti and intend to get either a reference card and do my own water conversion using an EVGA 140mm CL cooler or i will get an EVGA hybrid when they release
> 
> Back to the case choice:
> 
> Enthoo Evolv (Tempered glass) - i have concerns about the top exhaust - Im guessing the main CPU rad in front as intake, the GPU rad back rear as an exhaust and the top fans as exhaust?
> Enthoo Luxe (tempered glass)
> Corsair Crystal 460X (the arguably bigger 570X has an appaling PSU cover or lack of it and seems ill thought through)
> 
> Thanks for any responses!
> 
> Meth


Not a fan of corsair cases these days. Think they lost some touch. Between the evolv or luxe. Go with the luxe. The evolv will work as well. I think top mounting is okay as well. I have a 1800x and it really doesn't dump that much heat.


----------



## III-Method-III

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nycgtr*
> 
> Not a fan of corsair cases these days. Think they lost some touch. Between the evolv or luxe. Go with the luxe. The evolv will work as well. I think top mounting is okay as well. I have a 1800x and it really doesn't dump that much heat.


What clock you getting on it? 3.9? 4? or are you one of the lucky 4.1 crowd?


----------



## nycgtr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *III-Method-III*
> 
> What clock you getting on it? 3.9? 4? or are you one of the lucky 4.1 crowd?


I haven't gone for 4.1 but I can do 4 @ 1.38v. give or take However, right now temperature readings is not reliable yet with ryzen. So while there are many people dumping voltages in the 1.45v category, I am going to wait a bit. I am currently at 3.9 @ 1.3v which to me is a nice balance. Considering amd does not recommend higher than 1.35 for ocing I am doing quite alright.


----------



## III-Method-III

yeah, Ive read there is a 20c offset or something.

Ideally, i would wait until the Gen2 AM$ boards are released....but Im beginning to feel like all im doing is waiting....gotta take the plunge at some point or life passes you by!


----------



## dlewbell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *III-Method-III*
> 
> I hope this isnt a devisive request!
> 
> But might any of you guys be able to help me decide between 3 cases - kinda pro's and cons?
> 
> For context Im pretty much sold on a Ryzen 8 core 1700 which I will OC as far as I can
> I will use a CL AIO (probably the Kraken X62) 280mm rad for the CPU
> I am going to get a 1080Ti and intend to get either a reference card and do my own water conversion using an EVGA 140mm CL cooler or i will get an EVGA hybrid when they release
> 
> Back to the case choice:
> 
> Enthoo Evolv (Tempered glass) - i have concerns about the top exhaust - Im guessing the main CPU rad in front as intake, the GPU rad back rear as an exhaust and the top fans as exhaust?
> Enthoo Luxe (tempered glass)
> Corsair Crystal 460X (the arguably bigger 570X has an appaling PSU cover or lack of it and seems ill thought through)
> 
> Thanks for any responses!
> 
> Meth


I'll add another vote for the Luxe TG. It's big, but it's very versatile, & looks great.
I'd also recommend something like the Swiftech H240 X2 (or H320 X2) with an AM4 mounting kit over something like the X62. If you're spending that much, & particularly if you want a GPU under water as well, you're much better off buying a good expandable AIO with a copper radiator & a decent pump than buying Asetek sealed systems with an LED ring.


----------



## OrangeRaptor

Why isn't the Enthoo Pro M on the list? Is it not good enough to be in this list of equal superior cases? Does it not meet the Phanteks specification?
What kind of racism is this!??!


----------



## III-Method-III

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dlewbell*
> 
> I'll add another vote for the Luxe TG. It's big, but it's very versatile, & looks great.
> I'd also recommend something like the Swiftech H240 X2 (or H320 X2) with an AM4 mounting kit over something like the X62. If you're spending that much, & particularly if you want a GPU under water as well, you're much better off buying a good expandable AIO with a copper radiator & a decent pump than buying Asetek sealed systems with an LED ring.


I WANT to follow your advice, but i struggle to actually like how the Swiftek water coolers look.

I wouldnt say they were butt ugly, but they do nothing for me...whereas the X62 at least looks like the hottie in lingerie (wow, ive taken that particular metaphor and gone way to far with it)

Im aware that the Swiftek are expandable, but in an earlier chat on the Swiftek thread about doing exactly that (to encompas my GPU block) it was suggested I should also change out the reservoir....at which point i was binning to wonder what the point of getting the swiftek was (if you see what I mean).

Another thing about some earlier conversations along the lines of getting a swiftek were that the GPU (of a 1080 or similar) kicks out more heat that an OC CPU and so it was the GPU that needs a 280 rad and the CPU could be cooled off a 140. Leaving me wondering if I could effectively cool both on a 280 or if I really needed a 420 rad (do these exist?)

Im a confused bundle of thoughts ATM lolz


----------



## dlewbell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *III-Method-III*
> 
> I WANT to follow your advice, but i struggle to actually like how the Swiftek water coolers look.
> 
> I wouldnt say they were butt ugly, but they do nothing for me...whereas the X62 at least looks like the hottie in lingerie (wow, ive taken that particular metaphor and gone way to far with it)
> 
> Im aware that the Swiftek are expandable, but in an earlier chat on the Swiftek thread about doing exactly that (to encompas my GPU block) it was suggested I should also change out the reservoir....at which point i was binning to wonder what the point of getting the swiftek was (if you see what I mean).
> 
> Another thing about some earlier conversations along the lines of getting a swiftek were that the GPU (of a 1080 or similar) kicks out more heat that an OC CPU and so it was the GPU that needs a 280 rad and the CPU could be cooled off a 140. Leaving me wondering if I could effectively cool both on a 280 or if I really needed a 420 rad (do these exist?)
> 
> Im a confused bundle of thoughts ATM lolz


420 & larger rads exist, but I don't think you can get a pre-assembled AIO with one. If you did want to go that way, the Luxe would still support it, but of course you'll be spending a lot more for a full custom loop. The biggest problem with something like the X62 is that it's not much better than a good air cooler while likely being louder, all at twice the price. If you want it for the looks, go for it. It's just not a good value.


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *III-Method-III*
> 
> I WANT to follow your advice, but i struggle to actually like how the Swiftek water coolers look.
> 
> I wouldnt say they were butt ugly, but they do nothing for me...whereas the X62 at least looks like the hottie in lingerie (wow, ive taken that particular metaphor and gone way to far with it)
> 
> Im aware that the Swiftek are expandable, but in an earlier chat on the Swiftek thread about doing exactly that (to encompas my GPU block) it was suggested I should also change out the reservoir....at which point i was binning to wonder what the point of getting the swiftek was (if you see what I mean).
> 
> Another thing about some earlier conversations along the lines of getting a swiftek were that the GPU (of a 1080 or similar) kicks out more heat that an OC CPU and so it was the GPU that needs a 280 rad and the CPU could be cooled off a 140. Leaving me wondering if I could effectively cool both on a 280 or if I really needed a 420 rad (do these exist?)
> 
> Im a confused bundle of thoughts ATM lolz


Agree on the looks of the Swiftech coolers. IMO you are better off with the Alphacool Eisbear. I have the 360 mm variant and it does an excellent job at cooling my CPU, heck, i could even cool my GPU with this radiator and temps would still be fine. It also looks very nice IMO and you can expand it very easily if you wanted to, you just buy an additional radiator and connect it though the QDC and you are good to go. Its also fairly cheap if you compare it to Corsair units or other similar coolers.


----------



## III-Method-III

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> Agree on the looks of the Swiftech coolers. IMO you are better off with the Alphacool Eisbear. I have the 360 mm variant and it does an excellent job at cooling my CPU, heck, i could even cool my GPU with this radiator and temps would still be fine. It also looks very nice IMO and you can expand it very easily if you wanted to, you just buy an additional radiator and connect it though the QDC and you are good to go. Its also fairly cheap if you compare it to Corsair units or other similar coolers.


Wow. I had never see or been recommended that water cooler. ive just been taking a look on their site. Im impressed, ill have to hit up some YT reviews (where comparisons are done properly) to see the cooling power. ive been told a number of times by people over on the Swiftek thread that a 3x120 rad has basically the same cooling cooling capability (due to surface area of fans, and of rad) as a 2x140.

As a result Im probably only looking for a 280 as its one less fan to be noisy. ive also heard that when you get 3 fants you get an "interference" effect between the fans that can sound a little odd. ??

So what CPU do you have under your 360 alphacool and how does it deal with an OC? Is it quiet?


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *III-Method-III*
> 
> Wow. I had never see or been recommended that water cooler. ive just been taking a look on their site. Im impressed, ill have to hit up some YT reviews (where comparisons are done properly) to see the cooling power. ive been told a number of times by people over on the Swiftek thread that a 3x120 rad has basically the same cooling cooling capability (due to surface area of fans, and of rad) as a 2x140.
> 
> As a result Im probably only looking for a 280 as its one less fan to be noisy. ive also heard that when you get 3 fants you get an "interference" effect between the fans that can sound a little odd. ??
> 
> So what CPU do you have under your 360 alphacool and how does it deal with an OC? Is it quiet?


Its an very underrated product and people don't recommend it in reviews strangely.

280 mm and 360 mm is a large difference i mean, 280 you have 280 mm and 360 mm you simply have more surface area, that and 120 mm fans are better optimized for radiators than 140 mm fans are due to higher static pressure.

The stock Alphacool Eiswind 120 mm fans perform really really well and i am actually impressed by their performance. They move a ton of air and are fairly quiet even at full blast. That being said, noise is different from each person because we all have different hearings and it depends on a lot of factors too.

I personally don't use the stock fans but i have 3 Noctua NF-F12 Industrial PPC 3K RPM fans mounted on the rad which have even better noise to performance ratio. They are expensive though but they are one of the best if not the best 120 mm fans IMO. I have an fan controller in order to keep all the fans quiet under normal/light load and under heavy load i can ramp them up if needed.

I have an FX-8350 clocked at 4.8 GHz at the moment and i can cool it fairly easy as the radiator can dissipate more than 300 watts with ease. Under IBT AVX stress test i don't have to ramp the fans up that high because at 1500-1800 they deliver enough airflow in order to cool the radiator. My CPU runs at 1.548 vcore and max temp i seen was around 51 c under an ambient temp of 22 c.

I also run my CPU-NB and NB volts fairly high that also puts additional heat to the CPU. Take it from me, there is no better alternative than the Alphacool Eisbear at the moment. It delivers custom water cooling performance at a lower price than an CLC at the moment. You can also expand it very easily and cheap too. For me, its a no brainer. If i were you and i had the room for it, i would go with an 360 mm radiator.


----------



## III-Method-III

Im not trying to be an ass, as i really appreciate your comments, but you might be surprised by the maths. The only part of the rad that matters is the part under the fans as the rest doesnt get airflow sooooo...

Area=pi*radius squared.
120mm fan = 3.142 * 60 * 60 = 11,311mm for 1x120mm fan. For 3 x 120mm fans your area is = 33,933mm
140mm fan = 3.142 * 70 * 70 = 15,395mm for 1x140mm fan. For 2 x 140mm fans your area is = 30,791mm
Pretty darn similar. the difference is about 1/3 of a 120mm fan.

I totally take your point about 120mm fans being specialised for static pressure - that said the alphacool website does state that all their rad fans on the Eisbaer AIO are set up for static pressure. I dunno, Im a novice lol. you have the product in your rig







Experience counts for everything.

I can understand why you swapped out the fans, some of the reviews ive watched targeted the fans for being a bit slow and not moving enough air. The other big complaint was that the fans supplied with the product were only 3pin rather than 4pin and so control through the motherboard PWN was very limited. I presume you have no such issue with the noctua fans you now have.

This kit looks a LOT better (to my eye) than swiftech. I just wished there were more reviews of it - seems noone knows about it?


----------



## III-Method-III

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dlewbell*
> 
> I'll add another vote for the Luxe TG. It's big, but it's very versatile, & looks great.
> I'd also recommend something like the Swiftech H240 X2 (or H320 X2) with an AM4 mounting kit over something like the X62. If you're spending that much, & particularly if you want a GPU under water as well, you're much better off buying a good expandable AIO with a copper radiator & a decent pump than buying Asetek sealed systems with an LED ring.


Every man and his dog seems to be building into the Evolv right now. i personally think that with its restrictive top airflow and the fact that so may people recommend standing off the front to increase airflow and standing off the top to do the same (or even CNC'ing it in some cases!) that its a flawed design. I lean heavily towards the Luxe myself....but....

i cant stand the front 5 1/4 bays...its like they forgot noone uses them anymore. 1 i can understand...maybe Im being silly. do they bother you? or are they really well presented?

How much space is there in the luxe TG for rads? What rads can you fit into the front without compromising on HDD spinner space? i do YT and generate a LOT of video data so I will be installing a 6Tb spinner at a minimum into my new rig (and a bunch of SSD's). Can you get a 240 in without removing the 5 1/4 bay cages?


----------



## Alex132

Regarding the 360 vs 280 rad thing. 360 is only 10% more surface area. And you can get 140mm fans to push the same amount of air but quieter.

EK makes great 140mm fans. I love them.


----------



## dlewbell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *III-Method-III*
> 
> Every man and his dog seems to be building into the Evolv right now. i personally think that with its restrictive top airflow and the fact that so may people recommend standing off the front to increase airflow and standing off the top to do the same (or even CNC'ing it in some cases!) that its a flawed design. I lean heavily towards the Luxe myself....but....
> 
> i cant stand the front 5 1/4 bays...its like they forgot noone uses them anymore. 1 i can understand...maybe Im being silly. do they bother you? or are they really well presented?
> 
> How much space is there in the luxe TG for rads? What rads can you fit into the front without compromising on HDD spinner space? i do YT and generate a LOT of video data so I will be installing a 6Tb spinner at a minimum into my new rig (and a bunch of SSD's). Can you get a 240 in without removing the 5 1/4 bay cages?


I don't mind the 5.25 bays. I would say the pictures on the Phanteks site are very representative of what it looks like in person. You can see the outline, but the bay caps all have the same aluminum fascia as the front panel, so you don't have any weird texture issues or anything. Of course, I'm actually using my bays still (Blu Ray, fan controller, & card reader/USB), so I'm happy to have them.

You'll want to mount a 240mm rad to the bottom, not the front. You'll lose the PSU shroud, but you keep the top drive cage with space for 3 HDDs. If you insist on keeping the PSU shroud, you'll loose all HDD cages with a front mounted radiator, but if you're not planning on using the optical drive bays, you can always just mount your HDDs in that area.


----------



## kovyrshin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *III-Method-III*
> 
> i cant stand the front 5 1/4 bays...its like they forgot noone uses them anymore. 1 i can understand...maybe Im being silly. do they bother you? or are they really well presented?


Same for me. They're ugly cuts with blank insers that will never be used most of the time.
Why there's no spacious case with nice ventilation and without useless 5.25" bays?


----------



## III-Method-III

Ive been trying to wrack my brains to come up with a mod to get rid of the bays yet still look cool.

Im coming up totally blank.

Oh well.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *III-Method-III*
> 
> Ive been trying to wrack my brains to come up with a mod to get rid of the bays yet still look cool.
> 
> Im coming up totally blank.
> 
> Oh well.


If you are going to mod....you could mimic the front intake. Smaller piece of white metal surrounded by mesh.


----------



## SultanOfWalmart

Will the TG Luxe take an Alphacool UT60 420mm up top in P/P config? Or would the fans be in the way of the motherboard and vice versa?


----------



## pez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kovyrshin*
> 
> Same for me. They're ugly cuts with blank insers that will never be used most of the time.
> Why there's no spacious case with nice ventilation and without useless 5.25" bays?


The Pro M is as close as it comes for Phanteks, and that bay can be removed without it looks that different from the Evolv ATX at all.

However, it sounds like the Define S is what you're looking for.


----------



## TheAbyss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SultanOfWalmart*
> 
> Will the TG Luxe take an Alphacool UT60 420mm up top in P/P config? Or would the fans be in the way of the motherboard and vice versa?


I tried an EK 420 (55mm) and I could not mount fans in the case (neither 25mm riings nor 30mm eloops), switched to the 30mm Alphacool and can now even Mount the 30mm eLoops inside in push.


----------



## SultanOfWalmart

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheAbyss*
> 
> I tried an EK 420 (55mm) and I could not mount fans in the case (neither 25mm riings nor 30mm eloops), switched to the 30mm Alphacool and can now even Mount the 30mm eLoops inside in push.


Were the fans interfering with the motherboard (vrm cooling/RAM)?


----------



## dlewbell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SultanOfWalmart*
> 
> Will the TG Luxe take an Alphacool UT60 420mm up top in P/P config? Or would the fans be in the way of the motherboard and vice versa?


You'll only be able to mount fans above the bracket with a 140mm wide x 60mm thick radiator. There's only about 67-68mm from the bottom of the mounting surface to the top of my motherboard, & the power connector (among other things) sticks out far enough that it would interfere with anything hanging in front of the motherboard.


----------



## SultanOfWalmart

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dlewbell*
> 
> You'll only be able to mount fans above the bracket with a 140mm wide x 60mm thick radiator. There's only about 67-68mm from the bottom of the mounting surface to the top of my motherboard, & the power connector (among other things) sticks out far enough that it would interfere with anything hanging in front of the motherboard.


Alright, looks like I'll have a similar issue as I have now with my Switch 810. With my current mobo (X58UD5







) it barely fits. As it stands it is a very specific fit as I don't think that any new motherboard has a similar layout/profile; especially in the placement of the EATX12v plug.


If I switch to a Luxe, wondering if I could fit an EK XE420/Alphacool XT45 420 up top with 25mm Fractal Venturi in PP...which would put it at 70mm. Might have to do some modding to the motherboard heatsinks.


----------



## jsarver

Need to vent. Enthoo elite came today and the accessories box was mangled inside the case. Screws everywhere. Can't imagine how long they were hitting the glass during shipping. Found screws in literally every part of the entire case. Single most expensive item I've purchased for any pc build and the most disappointed I have been. No clue on overall damage as it was immediately packed up and returned.


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jsarver*
> 
> Need to vent. Enthoo elite came today and the accessories box was mangled inside the case. Screws everywhere. Can't imagine how long they were hitting the glass during shipping. Found screws in literally every part of the entire case. Single most expensive item I've purchased for any pc build and the most disappointed I have been. No clue on overall damage as it was immediately packed up and returned.


Damn. That is not ok considering the low volume of this case (probably hundreds) and the price. Was the shipping box roughed up when you got it?


----------



## jsarver

Shipping box was acceptable but no were near flawless. Other thing I noted was the bottom panel that separates the basement from main compartment was bent upwards as if the accessories box was forced into the basement.


----------



## jsarver

Just got off the phone with customer service manager who said due to the size of the package they will not offer me any quicker shipping options as it would cost 300 plus.


----------



## KaffieneKing

Not good, especially because it's supposed to be a premium item.

Hope you get a nice new case soon! Post lots of pics as there won't be many people posting them!


----------



## jsarver

Will do. Customer service assured me that they would be visually inspecting every detail of the next one shipped to me and reassuring that all accessory packaging will be fully sealed.


----------



## paskowitz

Look at Phanteks being all nice...

http://www.phanteks.com/assets/3D/PH-ES515ETG.zip


----------



## dlewbell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> Look at Phanteks being all nice...
> 
> http://www.phanteks.com/assets/3D/PH-ES515ETG.zip


That's so awesome. Now if someone asks whether some component will fit, I can just measure it directly. I wish they'd release models for their other cases. I remember them announcing on Facebook that they were making this available, but I didn't know when it would be released.


----------



## PetrasSukys

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> Look at Phanteks being all nice...
> 
> http://www.phanteks.com/assets/3D/PH-ES515ETG.zip


This should be added to the first post :/ Any more models available?


----------



## TheAbyss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SultanOfWalmart*
> 
> Alright, looks like I'll have a similar issue as I have now with my Switch 810. With my current mobo (X58UD5
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ) it barely fits. As it stands it is a very specific fit as I don't think that any new motherboard has a similar layout/profile; especially in the placement of the EATX12v plug.
> 
> 
> If I switch to a Luxe, wondering if I could fit an EK XE420/Alphacool XT45 420 up top with 25mm Fractal Venturi in PP...which would put it at 70mm. Might have to do some modding to the motherboard heatsinks.


That will be a tight fit. after I changed the EK for an Alphacool ST30, I have barely room between MoBo VRM heatsinks (MSI Z170 Pro Carbon) and the eloops (30mm). So 67-68cm in total is the max. Good luck... Edit says: the Luxe is a very well build case though, I really like it.. but coming from a Xigmatel Elysium.. it´s tiny...but my wife (yes, the w-word!!!) made me "reconsider" my PC space...


----------



## III-Method-III

@TheAbyss - love the word "made me" rather than "helped me" lol.

My wife is currently making me "reconsider" whether i want a 2nd baby. This is why twins are good. You get them both at once and dont know whats coming to you. once you had one, you know damn well you wont be sleeping properly for 3 years straight....


----------



## TheAbyss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *III-Method-III*
> 
> @TheAbyss - love the word "made me" rather than "helped me" lol.
> 
> My wife is currently making me "reconsider" whether i want a 2nd baby. This is why twins are good. You get them both at once and dont know whats coming to you. once you had one, you know damn well you wont be sleeping properly for 3 years straight....


LOL! Our second dog was born 5 weeks ago.. does that count too?
That reminds me that I still owe this thread some pics of my build... it´s still in the making though.. modded the Luxe so that the Reservoir is directly next to the front rad (980TI is too long to use the pre-made reservoir Position). Made a nice litte window so it is still visible. I am currently making some custom shrouds to hide PSU and all cables.. will take an additional month until the first water runs through the heatkillers....


----------



## dlewbell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *III-Method-III*
> 
> @TheAbyss - love the word "made me" rather than "helped me" lol.
> 
> My wife is currently making me "reconsider" whether i want a 2nd baby. This is why twins are good. You get them both at once and dont know whats coming to you. once you had one, you know damn well you wont be sleeping properly for 3 years straight....


This is why my wife & I have no kids, & only 1 adult cat. Plus, I get to keep my Luxe in the living room.


----------



## OrangeRaptor

Just finished my sig rig will post pics later. No water cooling but it still looks good.


----------



## SultanOfWalmart

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dlewbell*
> 
> This is why my wife & I have no kids, & only 1 adult cat. Plus, I get to keep my Luxe in the living room.


No kids here either. That's about the only way I can afford to play on these forums (every couple of years) and keep scuba diving. Wife and I decided it's fur-babies (dogs) for us. Have two rescues so far, 3 year old black lab and 2 year old German sheppard. Now the wife is looking at a blue pit puppy that's been at the shelter for the last month...going to cut it off at 3 (or buy a second California king bed).

Cheaper than kids, but have remove a pound of dog fur out of the air filters once a month.


----------



## TheAbyss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SultanOfWalmart*
> 
> No kids here either. That's about the only way I can afford to play on these forums (every couple of years) and keep scuba diving. Wife and I decided it's fur-babies (dogs) for us. Have two rescues so far, 3 year old black lab and 2 year old German sheppard. Now the wife is looking at a blue pit puppy that's been at the shelter for the last month...going to cut it off at 3 (or buy a second California king bed).
> 
> Cheaper than kids, but have remove a pound of dog fur out of the air filters once a month.


Yep, same here, 1st Lab 5 years old (blond), second Lab 5 weeks old (black) and will come to us during easter Holidays. Those two fit my monochrome Luxe build perfectly.. still not allowed to have it in the living room...


----------



## III-Method-III

Lets see some pics of the luxe build Abyss?

Also can i see a pic of it containing your two dogs? - or did i misunderstand that you can fit your dogs into the luxe build?


----------



## MoDeNa

Hi guys,

Due to some messages I received asking me for the roof mod I did to my Evolv TG, I want to share with you the scheme I used to do it in case that may help somebody else..



Kind regards


----------



## Rahldrac

I heard a while back about Phanteks producing a Vertical GPU mount accessory, anybody know if there is a release date?


----------



## jsarver

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rahldrac*
> 
> I heard a while back about Phanteks producing a Vertical GPU mount accessory, anybody know if there is a release date?


You mean the one that comes with the elite? I'm sure you can call them and order one one it's own.


----------



## Dorito Bandit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MoDeNa*
> 
> Hi guys,
> 
> Due to some messages I received asking me for the roof mod I did to my Evolv TG, I want to share with you the scheme I used to do it in case that may help somebody else..
> 
> 
> 
> Kind regards


Have you posted any pics of the top of your case after doing the mod? Would love to see what you have done. Also, why did you decide to mod the top?


----------



## MoDeNa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dorito Bandit*
> 
> Have you posted any pics of the top of your case after doing the mod? Would love to see what you have done. Also, why did you decide to mod the top?


Yes I did, in the Evolv TG thread I recently posted some pics of my rig with the roof mod done.

it can be seen in the following link: http://www.overclock.net/t/1598825/phanteks-enthoo-evolv-atx/150#post_25793481


----------



## smiley424

Hello everyone. Just got my PC migrated over to an Evolv ATX TG Anthracite Gray. I wanted the Enthoo Pro M TG, but that exclusive for Amazon Prime Members, so I went with this instead (Prime free shipping doesn't work to Guam and Newegg doesn't ship here at all). Those are Phanteks sleeved cable extensions also. Still waiting on a led strip to come in and complete the build. I still need to do some work on the backside cable management. Just threw in a Krillin POP to help with the slight GPU sag.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!









Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!









Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!









Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## rayven1lk

Here's some pics of my new build...sorry for image spam in advance








And thank god for this thread...learnt a lot about this specific case


----------



## shhek0

Very nice. That case is a killer as well. Looking at pics from this topic.. wow. Unfortunately it costs a lot and it is not being sold in my country so I was thinking when I would be paying with my VISA to try the P400s TG case









Again sick build in the EVOLV- for me it is kinda the best looking(and not just looking) case without breaking the bank too much.


----------



## Dorito Bandit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MoDeNa*
> 
> Yes I did, in the Evolv TG thread I recently posted some pics of my rig with the roof mod done.
> 
> it can be seen in the following link: http://www.overclock.net/t/1598825/phanteks-enthoo-evolv-atx/150#post_25793481


Wow! That's a very nice looking mod! Great job! And yes, I too would love to see Phanteks offer different options for the top and front of their cases.

Thanks for sharing!









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smiley424*
> 
> Hello everyone. Just got my PC migrated over to an Evolv ATX TG Anthracite Gray. I wanted the Enthoo Pro M TG, but that exclusive for Amazon Prime Members, so I went with this instead (Prime free shipping doesn't work to Guam and Newegg doesn't ship here at all). Those are Phanteks sleeved cable extensions also. Still waiting on a led strip to come in and complete the build. I still need to do some work on the backside cable management. Just threw in a Krillin POP to help with the slight GPU sag.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Nice job!









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rayven1lk*
> 
> Here's some pics of my new build...sorry for image spam in advance
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And thank god for this thread...learnt a lot about this specific case
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Nice job as well!


----------



## pez

Choosing a puppy over a kid is the reason I'm able to still play around with what I can these days, too







. I'm just trying to figure out how I can get my pup into frame with the GFs Evolv ITX for the sake of on-topic...


----------



## TheAbyss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *III-Method-III*
> 
> Lets see some pics of the luxe build Abyss?
> 
> Also can i see a pic of it containing your two dogs? - or did i misunderstand that you can fit your dogs into the luxe build?


Well, not really, they just resemble the black/White colour choice I made. I will publish the first build pics soon, I will finish the first tubes today, so hopefully leak testing next Weekend. Other than that, all the custom shrouds will take some additional time to built.


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pez*
> 
> Choosing a puppy over a kid is the reason I'm able to still play around with what I can these days, too
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


Pups are simply better than kids, anyone who says otherwise doesn't know what they're talking about.










Spoiler: Obligatory happy pup pic


----------



## pez

The GF and I have been saying the same thing for some time now....it just happens to trigger anybody we know that has kids







.


----------



## doyll

I've raised kids and I've raised pups. Pups are definitely much less work. They learn all the need to know in 2 years or less and always love us. Kids on the other hand ...


----------



## pez

Doyll, you're only proving our point further







.


----------



## III-Method-III

Ive had pups and kids too.

Doyll got it about spot on....tho my kiddo is only 2yo and so still loves me. Give it about 8 years....


----------



## Dorito Bandit

I'm sorry guys, but cats rule!











Who says cat and mice don't get alone?


----------



## doyll

Dogs look as their owner and say, "What would you like me to do for you?"
Cats look at their owner and say, "What are you going to do for me?"








Cat's are more like kids.


----------



## ZippyO

Just to kinda steer this thread back into a normal direction (do not get me wrong, great conversation so far, I am in the doggo-faction







)

Not really about the Phanteks-cases, but more about me being pissed and somehow having to tell this to somebody to feel a little better:

Recently ordered the Phanteks sleeved cable-extensions in black/white from Caseking (german vendor for pc-parts, modding and such).
They were not in stock for a long time, but recently were again. I bought them a few days before they even arrived at the caseking-warehouse. I was now waiting for 1,5 weeks and contacted them today because I was already wondering were my package was. They told me, that they did not order enough by themselves and could not fulfill my order.

Now I have to wait 2 MONTHS before they are in stock again!
I would normally just cancel the order and buy them somewhere else, but in Germany Caseking is the only vendor selling them, so I do not have any option other than waiting till the end of May for them to have those in stock again, probably taking more like early june until they finally arrive at my house.

******* hate the availability of modding-accessoires in Germany....


----------



## OrangeRaptor

I forgot how bad it was to order simple cable extensions in different countries. Do you not have amazon?


----------



## ZippyO

Of course I have Amazon, but they do not offer those extensions, as I need the full set + an additional 6+2 Pin extension.


----------



## OrangeRaptor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZippyO*
> 
> Of course I have Amazon, but they do not offer those extensions, as I need the full set + an additional 6+2 Pin extension.


Does cablemod **** to germany? If so why not get those?


----------



## ZippyO

They are out of stock too and they are also more expensive in general.
And cablemod-cables are relatively thin compared to other options, and I like my cables to be a little bit hicker rather than too thin.

Another option for me would be the Thermaltake TTmod cables, but they are also not available in Germany in black/white.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZippyO*
> 
> They are out of stock too and they are also more expensive in general.
> And cablemod-cables are relatively thin compared to other options, and I like my cables to be a little bit hicker rather than too thin.
> 
> Another option for me would be the Thermaltake TTmod cables, but they are also not available in Germany in black/white.


Bitfenix and be quiet! extensions should be available in Germany. I know Bitfenix had black and white at one time, but it's hard to pin down what colors are available with them.


----------



## pez

I've seen some VERY good things from the BitFenix Alchemy 2.0 replacement cables.


----------



## ZippyO

Bitfenix does not offer them in Black/white and Bequiet not at all, except for a few like Molex-extensions in black.

Gesendet von meinem Aquaris X5 Plus mit Tapatalk


----------



## pez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZippyO*
> 
> Bitfenix does not offer them in Black/white and Bequiet not at all, except for a few like Molex-extensions in black.
> 
> Gesendet von meinem Aquaris X5 Plus mit Tapatalk


What's your PSU? Bitfenix does do black and white kits as seen here: https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16812493205&ignorebbr=1&nm_mc=KNC-GoogleAdwords-PC&cm_mmc=KNC-GoogleAdwords-PC-_-pla-_-Cables+-+Internal+Power+Cables-_-N82E16812493205&gclid=Cj0KEQjwk-jGBRCbxoPLld_bp-IBEiQAgJaftTSLKTsoPO48BOvKigKasYVcwIZ7qfrV1SK70wote40aAlZA8P8HAQ&gclsrc=aw.ds


----------



## xTesla1856

Question for my fellow Luxe (TG) owners: Has anyone had luck with a 280mm radiator in the front intake area? Phanteks says the Luxe can only hold a 240mm in the front, yet they ship the LuxeTG with 2x140mm front intake fans. My plan is to run a 420mm top and a 280mm front radiator along with some low speed fans for the ultimate quiet rig.

EDIT: If I have to drill holes, so be it. I'm not new to cutting up Enthoo Luxes


----------



## geriatricpollywog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xTesla1856*
> 
> Question for my fellow Luxe (TG) owners: Has anyone had luck with a 280mm radiator in the front intake area? Phanteks says the Luxe can only hold a 240mm in the front, yet they ship the LuxeTG with 2x140mm front intake fans. My plan is to run a 420mm top and a 280mm front radiator along with some low speed fans for the ultimate quiet rig.
> 
> EDIT: If I have to drill holes, so be it. I'm not new to cutting up Enthoo Luxes




cut cut cut


----------



## TheAbyss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OrangeRaptor*
> 
> I forgot how bad it was to order simple cable extensions in different countries. Do you not have amazon?


Have you tried eBay? I was interested in the same extensions but since I swapped the PSU, got a complete black/White set directly for the PSU (CableMod). I found the phanteks extensions them on Ebay.de.

Edit: I have used the Bitfenix Black ones in the past and Quality is satisfying. It´s correct, the CableMod are a bit thinner (AWG 18?) but since I ordered the combs alos at cambleMod, it´s OK and I do not Need to extend the PSU cables but can directly go into the PSU (except for the ATX24, which is nonModular in the DPP10)


----------



## xTesla1856

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0451*
> 
> 
> 
> cut cut cut


That's an Enthoo Evolv though


----------



## dlewbell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xTesla1856*
> 
> Question for my fellow Luxe (TG) owners: Has anyone had luck with a 280mm radiator in the front intake area? Phanteks says the Luxe can only hold a 240mm in the front, yet they ship the LuxeTG with 2x140mm front intake fans. My plan is to run a 420mm top and a 280mm front radiator along with some low speed fans for the ultimate quiet rig.
> 
> EDIT: If I have to drill holes, so be it. I'm not new to cutting up Enthoo Luxes


I don't have any radiators to test fit, but by my measurement you'll only have about 305mm from the floor of the case to the bottom of the ODD cage. I would expect that you would need to remove the ODD cage to get a 280mm radiator in the front. I have no idea whether you'll need to drill new holes as well or not. That may depend on the exact radiator you choose.


----------



## ZippyO

I am swapping parts quite frequently, that's why I do not want to use cables that go directly to the PSU, as I would have to change them too often and then buy new ones.
And the Phanteks cables are also not on ebay, except for a few individual ones, which are pretty expensive and also not enough anyways.


----------



## TheWizardMan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dlewbell*
> 
> I don't have any radiators to test fit, but by my measurement you'll only have about 305mm from the floor of the case to the bottom of the ODD cage. I would expect that you would need to remove the ODD cage to get a 280mm radiator in the front. I have no idea whether you'll need to drill new holes as well or not. That may depend on the exact radiator you choose.


The problem isn't the height, it's the width. There are cutouts in the front shroud that allow the fans to fit, but a 280mm radiator will not fit in there without modification. You could cut the front shroud or you could remove it entirely, but a 280mm rad will not fit without modding the case.

You can see what I'm talking about in the picture below:


----------



## xTesla1856

Ah I see, time to get some measurements tonight. Thanks to the both of you for helping out. The radiator I was looking at for the front is an EK Coolstream 280CE.


----------



## TheWizardMan

The front will fit any width of 240mm radiator, so the better approach IMO (assuming you don't want to mod the case) is to get a thicker rad, like a monster or Harware Labs GTR.


----------



## xTesla1856

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheWizardMan*
> 
> The front will fit any width of 240mm radiator, so the better approach IMO (assuming you don't want to mod the case) is to get a thicker rad, like a monster or Harware Labs GTR.


I get your point but a thicker 240mm rad also means smaller and faster spinning fans..


----------



## DeXel

I really like Evolv ATX. Getting tired of humongous cases lol.

Anyone knows if I can fit my current XSPC RX240 v3 and Alphacool XT45 360mm in this case with EK D5 Pump/Res combo? Or Luxe is a better option (don't like plastic though)?


----------



## nycgtr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeXel*
> 
> I really like Evolv ATX. Getting tired of humongous cases lol.
> 
> Anyone knows if I can fit my current XSPC RX240 v3 and Alphacool XT45 360mm in this case with EK D5 Pump/Res combo? Or Luxe is a better option (don't like plastic though)?


Have your rads, have an evolv. Thick rads= bad idea. Unless you wanna buy new rads get a luxe


----------



## tongerks

Hi anyone who try to fit blackice 360 sr1 55mm diameter rad from enthoo pro m on top?


----------



## Doubletap1911

Does anyone know what is up with the mATX Evolv? I would actually prefer an original model (in AG) but the supply in the US seems to have completely dried up and I have not seen an official date for the TG version.

Do their TG cases completely replace the original versions?


----------



## pez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Doubletap1911*
> 
> Does anyone know what is up with the mATX Evolv? I would actually prefer an original model (in AG) but the supply in the US seems to have completely dried up and I have not seen an official date for the TG version.
> 
> Do their TG cases completely replace the original versions?


Not usually, so it could be a shortage. In the case of the original Evolv, though, that might be the case as it was the 'OG' and quite a large amount of people didn't care for the layout in the long run. However...we're sorely missing the new TG Evolv and it's taking forever







.


----------



## Splash74

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xTesla1856*
> 
> Question for my fellow Luxe (TG) owners: Has anyone had luck with a 280mm radiator in the front intake area? Phanteks says the Luxe can only hold a 240mm in the front, yet they ship the LuxeTG with 2x140mm front intake fans. My plan is to run a 420mm top and a 280mm front radiator along with some low speed fans for the ultimate quiet rig.
> 
> EDIT: If I have to drill holes, so be it. I'm not new to cutting up Enthoo Luxes


There is a saying pictures speak more than words









Pretty tight fit but the cooling performance on my Luxe is pretty nice , the EK XE 360 is 64mm thick and gives a lot more cooling then most 280 radiators will 120mm radiators are generally better in performance but more noise.

Radiator i got on the top is a alphacool XT 420 45mm pure copper core really good performance with low speeds same as the EK XE 360.

As you see i love my dremmel to







look on the top mounting for the 420 had to do a sloppy cutout fast to make it fit but it was pretty much down to 1 cm to fail.


----------



## TheAbyss

Do you run the front fans in push or pull?


----------



## Splash74

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheAbyss*
> 
> Do you run the front fans in push or pull?




Answer to that is both getting my modded front over back soon I hope
so i ripped out as much layers i can from the front cover and it will fit with push pull the front will have a mesh installed to so that's the plan that EK XE 360 radiator is brutal performance with push/pull setup


----------



## DeXel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nycgtr*
> 
> Have your rads, have an evolv. Thick rads= bad idea. Unless you wanna buy new rads get a luxe


And what's the max rad thickness for both front and top assuming just push or pull to leave enough clearance for EK D5 pump/res from front of the case, and EK Supremacy Evo from top rad?

I really want something simple like Evolve ATX (no optical bays, mostly aluminum, under $200 price tag) for my upcoming Ryzen build. Otherwise, I'll have to reuse Cosmos or Cosmos II, and wait for something slightly bigger to come out sometime in the future...

Ideally I just need something that fits 240mm + 360mm rad to cool ~140w TDP CPU and up to 2 graphic cards while being as small as possible (no need for HDDs, optical bays and etc.).


----------



## eXistencelies

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeXel*
> 
> And what's the max rad thickness for both front and top assuming just push or pull to leave enough clearance for EK D5 pump/res from front of the case, and EK Supremacy Evo from top rad?
> 
> I really want something simple like Evolve ATX (no optical bays, mostly aluminum, under $200 price tag) for my upcoming Ryzen build. Otherwise, I'll have to reuse Cosmos or Cosmos II, and wait for something slightly bigger to come out sometime in the future...
> 
> Ideally I just need something that fits 240mm + 360mm rad to cool ~140w TDP CPU and up to 2 graphic cards while being as small as possible (no need for HDDs, optical bays and etc.).


I was able to fit two 360 GTS360 rads in my Evolv case. Removed top rad tray. Drilled 4 holes in cross members at the top to line up with top rad. Notched out the pump tray so I could put the 360 in front and still have the factory look. Pump is down in bay area. Tight, but works great.

https://pcpartpicker.com/b/qmd6Mp


----------



## nycgtr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeXel*
> 
> And what's the max rad thickness for both front and top assuming just push or pull to leave enough clearance for EK D5 pump/res from front of the case, and EK Supremacy Evo from top rad?
> 
> I really want something simple like Evolve ATX (no optical bays, mostly aluminum, under $200 price tag) for my upcoming Ryzen build. Otherwise, I'll have to reuse Cosmos or Cosmos II, and wait for something slightly bigger to come out sometime in the future...
> 
> Ideally I just need something that fits 240mm + 360mm rad to cool ~140w TDP CPU and up to 2 graphic cards while being as small as possible (no need for HDDs, optical bays and etc.).


Having the thick rads in that case is going to hurt your cooling performance as airflow is already crappy. Having a thick rad on top looks horrific, I've done it in this case. I ended up putting 2 360gts in the case and my temps went down quite a bit and it just looks better in the case. Thick rads are really friendly with bigger cases. I would wait to see what else is available around 200. I looked around before getting the evolv and if I knew I had to rebuy rads just to fit into it, I would of just stayed with my primo. I am running 2 txps and a 1800x in my evolv atm. Temps are good but can be better.


----------



## xTesla1856

Ended up settling for "just" a Cooolstream 360PE and a Coolstream 240PE. Should be plenty for my sig rig. Thanks everyone for your help and clarification, that's why I love this forum


----------



## cr1

I just setup my new Phanteks Enthoo Luxe Tempered Glass...and I noticed the side-window bulged outwards slightly in the middle-

Has anyone with this same case noticed that their case does that too?

Should I be concerned?

Thanks guys!!


----------



## FXformat

Hey guys just thought i'd share with you on my new project. though i did love the Evolv TG for its looks and aluminum body, airflow was restricted due to the top being closed with vents not being able to move air adequately. I've been looking around for a case similar in size and design and i found one, enter the Entho Pro M, it's basically the same size as the Evolv, same interior layout, but it's metal and mot aluminum. The top of the case is opened, you can exhaust all the hot air out there without having to modify the top. It's a bonus that the case is half the price of an Evolv. Mine will arrive tuesday, i'm going to be heavily modding it to look like a mini SMA8 with the PSU chamber on the bottom as a 360mm rad, will keep you guys posted.


----------



## OrangeRaptor

please whatever you do. dont kill the case... I have the same case and I love it. Put a good taste of phanteks in my mouth with how good the build quality is and how many features there are even though they arent even listed.


----------



## paskowitz

Where is the PSU going to end up?


----------



## FXformat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OrangeRaptor*
> 
> please whatever you do. dont kill the case... I have the same case and I love it. Put a good taste of phanteks in my mouth with how good the build quality is and how many features there are even though they arent even listed.


oh i'm not only going to kill the case, i'm going to destroy it, gut everything, paint it pink and bright blue, that's my style! jk, i keep all my mods clean, click my avatar and check my other builds, i keep everything clean


----------



## FXformat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> Where is the PSU going to end up?


It's going to remain in the same spot, but i will use a 600w SFX PSU, it's tiny, like 4"x4" and 2.5" thick, it'll be mounted vertically behind the rad/fans.

The size difference is something like this


----------



## paskowitz

Interesting.


----------



## FXformat

Indeed, case should be here any day now, then I'm going to start cutting it up and gutting it.


----------



## Testing12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FXformat*
> 
> Hey guys just thought i'd share with you on my new project. though i did love the Evolv TG for its looks and aluminum body, airflow was restricted due to the top being closed with vents not being able to move air adequately. I've been looking around for a case similar in size and design and i found one, enter the Entho Pro M, it's basically the same size as the Evolv, same interior layout, but it's metal and mot aluminum. The top of the case is opened, you can exhaust all the hot air out there without having to modify the top. It's a bonus that the case is half the price of an Evolv. Mine will arrive tuesday, i'm going to be heavily modding it to look like a mini SMA8 with the PSU chamber on the bottom as a 360mm rad, will keep you guys posted.


Yay! I love the Pro M... and especially the tempered glass version.
Yup, same interior as the Evolv, except you can have a 5.25" drive or not, your choice.
As you mentioned, lots of airflow out the top and (not mentioned) intake in the front as well.
Good luck with your build!


----------



## cr1

Anyone?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cr1*
> 
> I just setup my new Phanteks Enthoo Luxe Tempered Glass...and I noticed the side-window bulged outwards slightly in the middle-
> 
> Has anyone with this same case noticed that their case does that too?
> 
> Should I be concerned?
> 
> Thanks guys!!


----------



## KaffieneKing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cr1*
> 
> Anyone?


I can't even see it in the photo, so I expect others can't either.


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaffieneKing*
> 
> I can't even see it in the photo, so I expect others can't either.


Think for yourself plz... you can clearly see that its bent and there's a bulge... Look at the left of the glass and than in the middle, you can clearly see that its not inline.


----------



## xTesla1856

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> Think for yourself plz... you can clearly see that its bent and there's a bulge... Look at the left of the glass and than in the middle, you can clearly see that its not inline.


I checked my case and my glass is perfectly aligned and flush with the top of the case. Definitely not like yours. I'll upload a picture for you when I get back home.


----------



## jsarver

Enthoo elite build minus a couple braided sata cables and some fan extensions. Fielding any questions you guys may have about the case since I know info is hard to find!


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cr1*
> 
> Anyone?


I'm unsure how the glass on those cases are fitted, but yes you shouldn't exactly be thrilled by this. If it was acrylic or any other kind of plastic then it would be fine, but glass (and tempered glass especially so) is VERY rigid, so any bending of it is concerning.

Are you sure the glass itself isn't bent (as in it's not the fitting of the glass that bends it but the glass itself that is bent from factory), because it actually takes a lot of force to bend glass that thick.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jsarver*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Enthoo elite build minus a couple braided sata cables and some fan extensions. Fielding any questions you guys may have about the case since I know info is hard to find!


Most interested in the cooling fitment. Can you start posting any oddities in the measurements and what you are planning for cooling?


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cr1*
> 
> Anyone?


I have been using tempered glass for as long as dirt has been used and have only seen things like car windows not being flat, so I'm wondering what is actually curved. Is it the glass or the case?


----------



## FXformat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jsarver*
> 
> 
> 
> Enthoo elite build minus a couple braided sata cables and some fan extensions. Fielding any questions you guys may have about the case since I know info is hard to find!


You gotta fill this case out bro, it's a huge case with so much empty spaces.


----------



## jsarver

I'll be working on a water build once the 1080tis ship no reason to do it now. Also I don't mind he case being somewhat empty. Adds to the clean looks imo. Cases crammed full of **** just because kills me.


----------



## eXistencelies

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jsarver*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Enthoo elite build minus a couple braided sata cables and some fan extensions. Fielding any questions you guys may have about the case since I know info is hard to find!


You spent that amount of money on that case only to use AIO coolers?

Mindblown!!!!!!!!!!!!

EDIT:

Saw your comment above. Glad to hear you'll be custom looping it.


----------



## FXformat

Jesus Christ that case is $900??? I spent $350 on my case and i thought it was over the top...

Well if you got the budget for that case, you got the budget for 2 custom loops in there separating the GPU and CPU


----------



## eXistencelies

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FXformat*
> 
> Jesus Christ that case is $900??? I spent $350 on my case and i thought it was over the top...
> 
> Well if you got the budget for that case, you got the budget for 2 custom loops in there separating the GPU and CPU


Exactly!! I really do want that case, but $900 is way to damn much.


----------



## jsarver

lol well even if i didnt have plans to run a custom loop, im here to answer the questions of people who are interested. Not here to learn how to spend my own money. not to be a dick but people should show some love regardless of budgets or design.

ive come from multiple builds with small/cramped cases for the parts i want in them. im enjoying a case i can climb into and also show off. all my other cases were tucked under a desk out of sight. this one im happy to display.


----------



## paskowitz

If they made a shrunk down Elite (~30%), no crazy shipping box, 360bottom, 420 front, 360 top rad support, less included accessories (or to order), no dual system support, small reduction in complex shapes and I guess a solid front glass panel for like $400, I would be game.


----------



## OrangeRaptor

Would it be possible to take the tempered glass from the p400 and put it on the enthoo pro m? Then take the side panel from the enthoo pro m and put it on the p400?


----------



## FXformat

Doesn't the Pro M have a tempered glass version? I thought I saw one while browsing. If they're the same dimension you technically could, if you want to drill into the case if the holes don't line up. I paid $73 shipped for my Pro M from amazon, it's got a nasty dark green to it but I'm painting it white anyways so I don't care.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OrangeRaptor*
> 
> Would it be possible to take the tempered glass from the p400 and put it on the enthoo pro m? Then take the side panel from the enthoo pro m and put it on the p400?


----------



## FXformat

I've been looking for the same but from the caselabs SMA8. So my solution was to buy the Pro M and modify it to look similar. there would be a huge market for it too I bet.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> If they made a shrunk down Elite (~30%), no crazy shipping box, 360bottom, 420 front, 360 top rad support, less included accessories (or to order), no dual system support, small reduction in complex shapes and I guess a solid front glass panel for like $400, I would be game.


----------



## OrangeRaptor

I would get the tempered glass version but I already have a regular plexiglass/metal side panel version. I have a friend that has the p400 and he doesnt like the tempered glass so we came up with the idea of trading side panels. I'll see if it would fit next time I'm over at his place. If it doesnt fit would I be able to order the tempered glass it self from phanteks or would I have to buy a whole new case?


----------



## FXformat

No clue brother, your friend is crazy not to like tempered glass, it's so much nicer and scratch resistant than acrylic. But I'm sure the cases are very similar, try it out with him first...I know the Pro M and evolv atx have very similar internal dimensions too.


----------



## OrangeRaptor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FXformat*
> 
> No clue brother, your friend is crazy not to like tempered glass, it's so much nicer and scratch resistant than acrylic. But I'm sure the cases are very similar, try it out with him first...I know the Pro M and evolv atx have very similar internal dimensions too.


I'm pretty sure the pro m and evolv atx have the exact same interior just the evlov doesnt have a 5.25" bay in the front.


----------



## cr1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> I have been using tempered glass for as long as dirt has been used and have only seen things like car windows not being flat, so I'm wondering what is actually curved. Is it the glass or the case?


Phanteks is working on it..,..might just be a hinge adjustment, worse case scenario is side of case isn't flat-

Thanks!


----------



## pez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jsarver*
> 
> lol well even if i didnt have plans to run a custom loop, im here to answer the questions of people who are interested. Not here to learn how to spend my own money. not to be a dick but people should show some love regardless of budgets or design.
> 
> ive come from multiple builds with small/cramped cases for the parts i want in them. im enjoying a case i can climb into and also show off. all my other cases were tucked under a desk out of sight. this one im happy to display.


Not gonna lie I lol'd at first. The case is gorgeous, but on a forum like this, that's a picture that can trigger half the userbase







. I ultimately get a kick out of that, though.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jsarver*
> 
> I'll be working on a water build once the 1080tis ship no reason to do it now. Also I don't mind he case being somewhat empty. Adds to the clean looks imo. Cases crammed full of **** just because kills me.


I like a uncluttered look, but a full case / tight fitting system with well organized cabling looks less cluttered to me than a few components with unorganized cables and hoses. I dislike the look of soft hose liquid cooling because it looks unorganized.

But like others have said, posting imgaes of a $900 case with CLC garbage in it is asking for trouble .. way more than a low budget air cooler would.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cr1*
> 
> Phanteks is working on it..,..might just be a hinge adjustment, worse case scenario is side of case isn't flat-
> 
> Thanks!


Please let us know how you resolve the problem.


----------



## dublethink

Sorry for the potato quality pictures but parts for my own build, project "Nemesis" are arriving nicely. Tested the components in the case and all up and running. Radiators came today also so plan to flush them out and get them mounted over the next few days 

Lovely package from nils at MDPC arrived also!


----------



## jimmyz

Mine is the opposite, I can barely fit my hand in it..Lol I definitely looked bigger in pictures ?

IMG_20170327_203101.jpg 4858k .jpg file


IMG_20170328_053826.jpg 4066k .jpg file


Anyone know my pics don't show? I checked the upload box?


----------



## eXistencelies

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jimmyz*
> 
> Mine is the opposite, I can barely fit my hand in it..Lol I definitely looked bigger in pictures ?
> 
> IMG_20170327_203101.jpg 4858k .jpg file
> 
> 
> IMG_20170328_053826.jpg 4066k .jpg file
> 
> 
> Anyone know my pics don't show? I checked the upload box?


looks nice


----------



## jimmyz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eXistencelies*
> 
> looks nice


Thanks, I still can't figure out why they don't show up in the thread. I've never had a problem figuring it out other places.


----------



## FXformat

Host your images on Flickr or Imgur and use can codes when you have a URL. That way it shows up as a full pic and not a thumbnail . [ img ] URL [ / img ] just remove the spaces

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jimmyz*
> 
> Thanks, I still can't figure out why they don't show up in the thread. I've never had a problem figuring it out other places.


----------



## jsarver

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pez*
> 
> Not gonna lie I lol'd at first. The case is gorgeous, but on a forum like this, that's a picture that can trigger half the userbase
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . I ultimately get a kick out of that, though.


Well that is sad tbh. People getting worked up over things that don't effect them in the slightest. O well. I feel bad for "half the user base."


----------



## dlewbell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OrangeRaptor*
> 
> Would it be possible to take the tempered glass from the p400 and put it on the enthoo pro m? Then take the side panel from the enthoo pro m and put it on the p400?


I'm almost certain that it won't work. The Enthoo Pro M is 15mm taller & 30mm longer than the Eclipse P400. From the pictures on Phanteks's website, you can see that the glass on the Enthoo Pro M takes up a larger portion of it's profile. That means the glass on the Enthoo Pro M is going to be significantly larger. There's no way they're going to match.


----------



## AyyMD

Well, my test bench is ruined. I'm trying to figure out if it was entirely the PSU's fault or if it was because of the fan hub in my EVOLV. The fan hub's 4-pin connector started smoking for no apparent reason, but either way, my whole PC is screwed.


----------



## dentnu

Hi,

I am planing on getting either the Enthoo Evolv or the Enthoo Pro M both tempered glass. I like them both very much and am having a tough time deciding which one to get. I plan to add a water cooling setup to my build in the future so would like to know which one these do you guys recommend ? Any pros or cons I should be aware of ? I also see they both come with only 2 or 3 PH-F140SP_BBK fans on them. I would like to buy more fans and filll in all those open slots for better cooling. Should I get a few more PH-F140SP_BBK how good are those fans or should I just replaced all of them with different better fans if so which ones. Thanks


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dentnu*
> 
> Hi,
> 
> I am planing on getting either the Enthoo Evolv or the Enthoo Pro M both tempered glass. I like them both very much and am having a tough time deciding which one to get. I plan to add a water cooling setup to my build in the future so would like to know which one these do you guys recommend ? Any pros or cons I should be aware of ? I also see they both come with only 2 or 3 PH-F140SP_BBK fans on them. I would like to buy more fans and filll in all those open slots for better cooling. Should I get a few more PH-F140SP_BBK how good are those fans or should I just replaced all of them with different better fans if so which ones. Thanks


The stock fans are some of the best fans I've ever had included with a case. Unless you want a top end radiator fan, keep'em.

In terms of Evolv vs Pro M their interiors are nearly identical, save for the removable drive bay of the Pro M. The really difference is appearance and venting. The Evolv is a sexy case. Not sure if that is really even up for debate. The trade off though is that it has restrictive top ventilation. The Pro M is free following. This doesn't really manifest itself for air cooling but it's noticeable when water cooling.

Now, a journey through this thread will remedy the Evolv's airflow woes, but it will take some effort.

Outside if that the Pro M is easier on the wallet.


----------



## FXformat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> The stock fans are some of the best fans I've ever had included with a case. Unless you want a top end radiator fan, keep'em.
> 
> In terms of Evolv vs Pro M their interiors are nearly identical, save for the removable drive bay of the Pro M. The really difference is appearance and venting. The Evolv is a sexy case. Not sure if that is really even up for debate. The trade off though is that it has restrictive top ventilation. The Pro M is free following. This doesn't really manifest itself for air cooling but it's noticeable when water cooling.
> 
> Now, a journey through this thread will remedy the Evolv's airflow woes, but it will take some effort.
> 
> Outside if that the Pro M is easier on the wallet.


Well said, i have both and i can agree with all that you said. Adding on top a few things.

The evolv is of much higher build quality, you have aluminum vs metal on the Pro M.

Size wise the Evolv is about an inch bigger all around.

Evolv is $180 vs Pro M $75-$100

It's a tough decision, the Evolv is a beautiful case, but it was stuffy in there, so i got the Pro M with the ventilated top so when i finish building my rig i'll be able to do some tests of temps between the two cases.


----------



## dentnu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> The stock fans are some of the best fans I've ever had included with a case. Unless you want a top end radiator fan, keep'em.
> 
> In terms of Evolv vs Pro M their interiors are nearly identical, save for the removable drive bay of the Pro M. The really difference is appearance and venting. The Evolv is a sexy case. Not sure if that is really even up for debate. The trade off though is that it has restrictive top ventilation. The Pro M is free following. This doesn't really manifest itself for air cooling but it's noticeable when water cooling.
> 
> Now, a journey through this thread will remedy the Evolv's airflow woes, but it will take some effort.
> 
> Outside if that the Pro M is easier on the wallet.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FXformat*
> 
> Well said, i have both and i can agree with all that you said. Adding on top a few things.
> 
> The evolv is of much higher build quality, you have aluminum vs metal on the Pro M.
> 
> Size wise the Evolv is about an inch bigger all around.
> 
> Evolv is $180 vs Pro M $75-$100
> 
> It's a tough decision, the Evolv is a beautiful case, but it was stuffy in there, so i got the Pro M with the ventilated top so when i finish building my rig i'll be able to do some tests of temps between the two cases.


Thank you both for the quick reply. Awsome info any chance you have the page number or link to the mod that needs to be done to get better top cooling on the Evolv ? thanks


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dentnu*
> 
> Thank you both for the quick reply. Awsome info any chance you have the page number or link to the mod that needs to be done to get better top cooling on the Evolv ? thanks


It is a series of steps:
1. Seal off gaps in top radiator bracket (search the image gallery)
2. Unscrew top panel and rest it on the clips

Bonus:
1. Increase front panel distance to radiator by installing longer screws on the mounting plates.
2. Cut a hole in the top panel.


----------



## nycgtr

So my filter came in yesterday, I needed it to double check all my measurements are good before shipping the panel out tomorrow. I was going to do it today but time doesn't seem to allow for it. This my first demciflex fliter and I am little disappointed in that the middle looks a bit wrinkled. Perhaps I can work this out someway or the other but the plan is still going to go forth. I might just replace it with modders mesh or speaker grill mesh. However, this is the general idea.


----------



## pez

I think that'll look great! The only thing you could probably do further would to get a hard plastic mesh, but that would undoubtedly be more expensive.


----------



## john88

Just got a tempered glass panel from phanteks to replace the acrylic on my pro m!
















Lovin it!

Inly downside, made my case super heavy haha.

Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk


----------



## FXformat

Start gutting the Pro M today, removed the panel, front I/O, HD cages, fans, removed the feet, the top radiator slider. I'm installing my radiator right itno the roof, so i can see more of the mobo.





This is going to be my side project, backup rig..tomorrow i'm going to remove the bottom chamber and cutting it and moving it up 2", this way i can mount a 360mm radiator in that spot, i'd have to remove and trim the GPU support bracket as well. This build will have 2x 360mm radiator, it's cooling a 7600K and GTX 1080. I'm using an MATX Gene board so i can have room to move the bottom chamber up enough to install a 360mm down there. Backup rig is going to cost me more than $2000 after everything, this hobby is worst than crack.

Anyways, the goal of this build, is to make it look somewhat like a mini CaseLabs SMA8. That case is just too damn big, it's the size of an overseas luggage. Had caselabs released an MATX version of that case i'd bought one a long time ago, so i have to make my own.


----------



## Mega Man

completely off topic and sorry for that

@brian-phanteks your cases have been amazing, now if you only made a quality AL case ( NOT a slam to current cases, but i prefer AL )

however i just saw THeSE

wow.... just wow.... keep up the good work !


----------



## kevindd992002

Does the tempered glass of the Evolv ATX have hinges?


----------



## FXformat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Does the tempered glass of the Evolv ATX have hinges?


Not that i know of, it's too heavy and put a lot of stress on the joints.


----------



## Alex132

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FXformat*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Does the tempered glass of the Evolv ATX have hinges?
> 
> 
> 
> Not that i know of, it's too heavy and put a lot of stress on the joints.
Click to expand...

I don't think weight is the reason.


----------



## FXformat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alex132*
> 
> I don't think weight is the reason.


Then what is?


----------



## Alex132

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FXformat*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Alex132*
> 
> I don't think weight is the reason.
> 
> 
> 
> Then what is?
Click to expand...

Probably not being able to cost effectively securely attach hinges to the tempered glass.


----------



## FXformat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alex132*
> 
> Probably not being able to cost effectively securely attach hinges to the tempered glass.


Because it is heavy!


----------



## Alex132

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FXformat*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Alex132*
> 
> Probably not being able to cost effectively securely attach hinges to the tempered glass.
> 
> 
> 
> Because it is heavy!
Click to expand...

No. Because the glass is too brittle.

Hinges can hold a lot more weight than the 1-2KG of the glass panel.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alex132*
> 
> I don't think weight is the reason.


Exactly! You are not thinking about the physics involved or how much load a hinged TG panel would exert on a case.

Brittle makes no difference. it's all about weight.


----------



## kevindd992002

But there are other Enthoo cases with tempered glass that use hinges, right?


----------



## Coil

Hi,

I'm not sure if this will work... so, someone around here has some experience or advice: Enthoo Evolv + Z87 Classy (E-ATX). From my perspective, the size of the board fits but the angled 24-pin ATX does not work with the design of the Evolv.

- Regards!

http://www.phanteks.com/Enthoo-Evolv-ATX-TemperedGlass.html
http://de.evga.com/articles/00751/


----------



## kevindd992002

If you check the Enthoo Luxe here: http://www.phanteks.com/Enthoo-Luxe-TemperedGlass.html , it does say tempered glass on hinges. Luxe is bigger than the Evolv ATX so how can the reason be "weight" for not putting the TG of the Evolv ATX on hinges?

Heck they're even upgrading the Evolv mATX's TG to have hinges on it.


----------



## Alex132

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Alex132*
> 
> I don't think weight is the reason.
> 
> 
> 
> Exactly! You are not thinking about the physics involved or how much load a hinged TG panel would exert on a case.
> 
> Brittle makes no difference. it's all about weight.
Click to expand...

You do realize aluminum hinges can hold a lot more weight than 1-2KG right? Have you ever seen a car bonnet?


----------



## xTesla1856

Enthoo Luxe TG uses 2 hinges and that glass panel is a lot bigger than the Evolv's


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xTesla1856*
> 
> Enthoo Luxe TG uses 2 hinges and that glass panel is a lot bigger than the Evolv's


Exactly my point. So the reason why the Evolv ATX doesn't have these hinges is definitely not because of weight.


----------



## xTesla1856

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Exactly my point. So the reason why the Evolv ATX doesn't have these hinges is definitely not because of weight.


The Evolv was their first case with a TG sidepanel. So they were likely still figuring out how to attach it other than just using 4 screws. The Luxe and Elite both use hinges


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xTesla1856*
> 
> The Evolv was their first case with a TG sidepanel. So they were likely still figuring out how to attach it other than just using 4 screws. The Luxe and Elite both use hinges


Right but why upgrade the Evolv mATX (announced during CES 2017) with a hinged TG panel and leave the Evolv ATX behind? Marketing strategy?


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Right but why upgrade the Evolv mATX (announced during CES 2017) with a hinged TG panel and leave the Evolv ATX behind? Marketing strategy?


Most likely the cost of retooling to change the case is excessive. It may not be as simple as "add hinges".


----------



## paskowitz

Honestly the screw side panels aren't that bad. Don't fiddle with your case every two weeks, build it right the first, maybe second time. IMO something like what Cooler Master did with the their red and black pro 5 would be the easiest to implement.


----------



## prava

Any news from the new cases that were shown in the last show?


----------



## Benny89

Just got Enthoo Evolv ATX Glass - ABSOLUTELY LOVE THAT CASE.

However it came to me with two scratches (one on glass window next to screw) and one on cover above HDD bracets (the one you can remove to intall bigger rads).

Anyone know how good Phanteks support is? I hope they could send me replacements for those because I don't want to return case. I have 14 days to do it, no question asked, but I LOVE IT apart from those two scratches.

Anyone had any experience with Phanteks support? When I wrote to Corasir support they immidietly sent me replacements to their case so I hope Phanteks is also as good.









PS. Is it true that those glass windows scratch easly? What do you use to clean them?


----------



## 19DELTASNAFU

Well, the destruction is complete on the Primo. Time to start with the plexi and then layout. Wish my CH6 was doing this good. ughhh

http://s117.photobucket.com/user/looker12/media/IMG_0783_zpsitqwocd8.jpg.html


----------



## FXformat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *19DELTASNAFU*
> 
> Well, the destruction is complete on the Primo. Time to start with the plexi and then layout. Wish my CH6 was doing this good. ughhh
> 
> http://s117.photobucket.com/user/looker12/media/IMG_0783_zpsitqwocd8.jpg.html


Nice, i gutted my Enthoo Pro M too.



quick mock up before i rivet the panels in place...i basically cut out the PSU chamber, cut out the GPU bracket, I/O rear slot, and moved everything up so i can shove a 360mm on the bottom chamber.



This will look like a MATX Version of the CaseLabs SMA8 when i'm done.


----------



## Vyruz666

I have almost 0 experience in modding but i really want to remove the ugly psu cover from the p400s and replace it anyone have any tips on how i should go about this?


----------



## BLAMM0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vyruz666*
> 
> I have almost 0 experience in modding but i really want to remove the ugly psu cover from the p400s and replace it anyone have any tips on how i should go about this?


I think you first need to drill out the rivets, that hold the cover in place. Afterwards you can make you own from plexi, thin sheet metal or whatever material you're comfortable with. Not sure about the rigidity though. Sometimes when you remove some elements, the case starts to wobble.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benny89*
> 
> Just got Enthoo Evolv ATX Glass - ABSOLUTELY LOVE THAT CASE.
> 
> However it came to me with two scratches (one on glass window next to screw) and one on cover above HDD bracets (the one you can remove to intall bigger rads).
> 
> Anyone know how good Phanteks support is? I hope they could send me replacements for those because I don't want to return case. I have 14 days to do it, no question asked, but I LOVE IT apart from those two scratches.
> 
> Anyone had any experience with Phanteks support? When I wrote to Corasir support they immidietly sent me replacements to their case so I hope Phanteks is also as good.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> PS. Is it true that those glass windows scratch easly? What do you use to clean them?


USA support is very good and usually get answer same or next business day. World service can that another day, sometime 2.

Glass does not scratch easily .. plastic scratches easily.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

I figure soon phanteks will start integrating their products into the others ie. Including their watercooling parts in their cases...id like to see a case with dedicated holes for fill and drain ports and perhaps an option for socket fan on the rear panels


----------



## RyuBlade94

Guys, i'm gonna get a Evolv ATX (Tempered glass) soon, which i am going to use for watercooling. I would like to mount 2x360 radiators in there, do i need to do any mod to be able to do so?
Also, if i do actually need to mod it, what would i be able to fit without modding, with a 360 on up? Thanks in advance!


----------



## eXistencelies

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RyuBlade94*
> 
> Guys, i'm gonna get a Evolv ATX (Tempered glass) soon, which i am going to use for watercooling. I would like to mount 2x360 radiators in there, do i need to do any mod to be able to do so?
> Also, if i do actually need to mod it, what would i be able to fit without modding, with a 360 on up? Thanks in advance!


I was able to fit two 360 GTS' in mine. I removed the upper rad tray and drilled 4 holes into the crossing beams (frame) to match the 4 center holes in the radiator. 4 screws holds it incredibly well. For the front rad I removed the pump tray and notched out part of it so I could replace it back with the front rad in place. Looks good. That is if you want to use the pump tray.

Here is my build here. You'll see the pump tray that I modified in order to fit a full 360 up front.

https://pcpartpicker.com/b/qmd6Mp


----------



## FXformat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RyuBlade94*
> 
> Guys, i'm gonna get a Evolv ATX (Tempered glass) soon, which i am going to use for watercooling. I would like to mount 2x360 radiators in there, do i need to do any mod to be able to do so?
> Also, if i do actually need to mod it, what would i be able to fit without modding, with a 360 on up? Thanks in advance!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eXistencelies*
> 
> I was able to fit two 360 GTS' in mine. I removed the upper rad tray and drilled 4 holes into the crossing beams (frame) to match the 4 center holes in the radiator. 4 screws holds it incredibly well. For the front rad I removed the pump tray and notched out part of it so I could replace it back with the front rad in place. Looks good. That is if you want to use the pump tray.
> 
> Here is my build here. You'll see the pump tray that I modified in order to fit a full 360 up front.
> 
> https://pcpartpicker.com/b/qmd6Mp


Some guy in here fit like 8 rads in his evolv, 2x360mm is easy, just a little mod here and there. I'm about to fit a 360, 360, 280, and 140 into the Pro m which has same interior dimensions.


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RyuBlade94*
> 
> Guys, i'm gonna get a Evolv ATX (Tempered glass) soon, which i am going to use for watercooling. I would like to mount 2x360 radiators in there, do i need to do any mod to be able to do so?
> Also, if i do actually need to mod it, what would i be able to fit without modding, with a 360 on up? Thanks in advance!


Easiest way is to make a new mounting bracket and drill some holes in that, then mount that to the top of the case. I think there is an image in the thread gallery.


----------



## RUD3

finished mines yesterday

1080ti ftw coming in may on my pre order

any suggestions?


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eXistencelies*
> 
> I was able to fit two 360 GTS' in mine. I removed the upper rad tray and drilled 4 holes into the crossing beams (frame) to match the 4 center holes in the radiator. 4 screws holds it incredibly well. For the front rad I removed the pump tray and notched out part of it so I could replace it back with the front rad in place. Looks good. That is if you want to use the pump tray.
> 
> Here is my build here. You'll see the pump tray that I modified in order to fit a full 360 up front.
> 
> https://pcpartpicker.com/b/qmd6Mp


I thought the included rad mounting bracket of the Evolv ATX can handle "up to 360" and "up to 280" top rads? Why is there a need to mod it if you mount a 360 rad up there?

Also, why can't the rad handle 3 x 140mm fans/420mm rad? Aren't all three slots in the mounting bracket all 140mm-compatible?

@All

I emailed Phanteks USA support regarding the possibility of having a TG on hinges for the Evolv ATX and here's their response:

"Yes we will be putting the tempered glass on hinges for the Evolv ATX."

I know it's kind of vague but I asked them for more details (ETA) regarding it. I'll post back with more information when they reply.


----------



## RyuBlade94

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> Easiest way is to make a new mounting bracket and drill some holes in that, then mount that to the top of the case. I think there is an image in the thread gallery.


First of all thanks everyone who answered me.
Anyways I tried searching for it, but didn't succeed =/ Images in a 1700 pages thread are quite a lot xD.
Can anyone of you guys who managed to fit 2x360mm radiators in the Evolv atx provide me, even via pm, some pictures so I can understand how to do that?
Thanks!


----------



## Benny89

My support experience so far:

Contacted Phanteks, they agreed to send me mid-plate replacement but they are no sure if to send me replacement of my side window because they are not sure. I have send them pictures with scratches on window, but sadly my phone camera is crap and quality is not the best and it is really hard to catch scratches on glass with camera as you see them with naked eye. They asked for more pictures but I can't get any better with that camera







I don't have any better one.

Little dissapointed as when I got my Corsair 780T one side panel was little bent and plexi had few scratches and in the same day after two pictures and receipt I got my new side panels shipped from Corsair.

Phantkes doesn't seem so friendly as Corsair was.

Well, we will see. Still has over 10 days to return case...


----------



## eXistencelies

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> I thought the included rad mounting bracket of the Evolv ATX can handle "up to 360" and "up to 280" top rads? Why is there a need to mod it if you mount a 360 rad up there?
> 
> Also, why can't the rad handle 3 x 140mm fans/420mm rad? Aren't all three slots in the mounting bracket all 140mm-compatible?
> 
> @All
> 
> I emailed Phanteks USA support regarding the possibility of having a TG on hinges for the Evolv ATX and here's their response:
> 
> "Yes we will be putting the tempered glass on hinges for the Evolv ATX."
> 
> I know it's kind of vague but I asked them for more details (ETA) regarding it. I'll post back with more information when they reply.


The tower can only hold three 120mm fans (360mm) or two 140mm fans (280mm). It is not big enough to stick a 420mm rad on it. The reason I removed the radiator tray was because I hate how low it sits. It covers a lot of the motherboard which i do not like. If I didn't remove the tray I would have a difficult time running tubing the way I wanted.

I prefer the removable panel. If it came with hinges I would have to remove the whole case each time I mess with it as the panel would smack my monitor. Unless they are detachable.


----------



## Benny89

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> @All
> 
> I emailed Phanteks USA support regarding the possibility of having a TG on hinges for the Evolv ATX and here's their response:
> 
> "Yes we will be putting the tempered glass on hinges for the Evolv ATX."
> 
> I know it's kind of vague but I asked them for more details (ETA) regarding it. I'll post back with more information when they reply.


Darn....I just bought my Evolv ATX







. Two days for putting my system inside.... Should I return it?

What is the ETA for this updated ATX version? Any release date?


----------



## eXistencelies

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RyuBlade94*
> 
> First of all thanks everyone who answered me.
> Anyways I tried searching for it, but didn't succeed =/ Images in a 1700 pages thread are quite a lot xD.
> Can anyone of you guys who managed to fit 2x360mm radiators in the Evolv atx provide me, even via pm, some pictures so I can understand how to do that?
> Thanks!


here you go. This was my old build. New hardware but same loop design. You can see how I fit two 360 rads in there

Phantek Enthoo Evolv Tempered Glass Custom Water Loop (Green/Black Themed)


http://imgur.com/G4uVM


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eXistencelies*
> 
> The tower can only hold three 120mm fans (360mm) or two 140mm fans (280mm). It is not big enough to stick a 420mm rad on it. The reason I removed the radiator tray was because I hate how low it sits. It covers a lot of the motherboard which i do not like. If I didn't remove the tray I would have a difficult time running tubing the way I wanted.
> 
> I prefer the removable panel. If it came with hinges I would have to remove the whole case each time I mess with it as the panel would smack my monitor. Unless they are detachable.


Which of the three top fan slots (left, center, right) accommodate the two 140mm fans/280mm rad then? But the reason why the tray is sitting that low is to give enough room for air to travel out to the top panel vents, right? Or is it because you're using thick 360mm rads?

Good point on the hinges but yes it would be better if they were detachable too.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benny89*
> 
> Darn....I just bought my Evolv ATX
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Two days for putting my system inside.... Should I return it?
> 
> What is the ETA for this updated ATX version? Any release date?


I still don't have the ETA information on that. I'll let you know when I have a reply from them again.


----------



## RyuBlade94

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eXistencelies*
> 
> here you go. This was my old build. New hardware but same loop design. You can see how I fit two 360 rads in there
> 
> Phantek Enthoo Evolv Tempered Glass Custom Water Loop (Green/Black Themed)
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/G4uVM


That build looks awesome!








By the way thanks for the pics! Anyways, one question: I guess that if you mount 2x360mm, then in the front you are basically forced to get your tubings attached to the radiator on the bottom, since you won't have much room on the top, am i right?
Thanks for your help, really appreciate it!


----------



## eXistencelies

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Which of the three top fan slots (left, center, right) accommodate the two 140mm fans/280mm rad then? But the reason why the tray is sitting that low is to give enough room for air to travel out to the top panel vents, right? Or is it because you're using thick 360mm rads?
> 
> Good point on the hinges but yes it would be better if they were detachable too.


If I understand your question correctly then it would be the fan near the back of the case and the middle fan slot to accommodate the 280mm rad + 140mm fans. Actually I am using GTS 360 rads which are pretty slim. In fact they are the best performing slim rads.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RyuBlade94*
> 
> That build looks awesome!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> By the way thanks for the pics! Anyways, one question: I guess that if you mount 2x360mm, then in the front you are basically forced to get your tubings attached to the radiator on the bottom, since you won't have much room on the top, am i right?
> Thanks for your help, really appreciate it!


Thanks! You are correct, though I think it is doable it will just be a VERY TIGHT fit. You'll have more room having the ports at the bottom and it will look much cleaner. With my reservoir there it blocks the ports if I would have flipped the rad around. Now there was a guy on here some pages back who made custom feet for the Evolv TG so that it would sit higher. This way he was able to mount a 420mm (I think 420mm. If not then it was another 360mm) rad under neath the case. He then routed tubing out the backside of the case. Would be pretty cool and I have thought about it to give my hardware that extra cooling as the airflow in this case is meh.


----------



## Benson33

Hello Mattyfinch, I am currently installing exactly the same watercooling configuration as you in my Phanteks Enthoo Evolv ATX TG , with the same Darkside combo pump, EK gpu waterblock for my Asus 1080 Strix, EK CPU waterblock and 120/360 tanks. The only difference is that my watercooling liquid will be white. I have a few questions for you.

Did you fix the pump on existing holes in the chassis with the Darkside combo pump stealth mounting plate or did you drill them ?

What lengths are the extenders you used on the waterblock CPU?

Excuse me for my very average English, I'm french man.

Thank you in advance for your answers.


----------



## Benson33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mattyfinch*
> 
> Just finished the rework of my system and figured i would throw a couple pictures up. This is my second hard tube build, my previous build was an Mitx hard tube build in the Manta case.
> 
> Specs:
> 
> Phanteks Enthoo Evolv ATX TG
> Gigabyte Ultra-Gaming Z270 motherboard
> i5 6600k @ 4.8 (1.335 vcore)
> Asus Strix OC 1070 ( +45 core +1375 memory )
> Corsair Vengeance LPX 3200Mhz DDR4 (16GB)
> Evga G2 750 Watt modular PSU
> Intel m.2 256GB HD
> Windows 10 64Bit
> 
> Add ons:
> 
> NZXT hue+
> NZXT Grid+
> Corsair HD 120 RGB fans (3)
> Corsair SP120 HP PWM fans (3)
> Cablemods Black/Yellow full G2 cable kit.
> Some interior paint work.
> Wrapped exterior in carbon fiber vinyl (top and front)
> 
> Watercooling specs:
> 
> EKWB Supremacy Evo (nickle) CPU WB
> EKWB Strix1080 GPU WB
> EKWB Strix1080 GPU Backplate
> EKWB 360 PE 360mm Radiator (front)
> EKWB 120 PE 120mm Radiator (rear)
> Bitspower 16mm "Black Sparkle" fittings
> Darkside 220 Res w/ D5 strong pump
> Mayhem Yellow coolant ( mixed with a few ml's of Mayhem red to make it a deeper yellow )
> 
> System runs flawlessly and remains very cool. 18HR on p95 max heat the cpu never passed 60*C. GPU levels off at 41*C on Valley 1920x1080 ultra 8aa.
> 
> Pics:


Hello Mattyfinch, I am currently installing exactly the same watercooling configuration as you in my Phanteks Enthoo Evolv ATX TG , with the same Darkside combo pump, EK gpu waterblock for my Asus 1080 Strix, EK CPU waterblock and 120/360 tanks. The only difference is that my watercooling liquid will be white. I have a few questions for you.

Did you fix the pump on existing holes in the chassis with the Darkside combo pump stealth mounting plate or did you drill them ?

What lengths are the extenders you used on the waterblock CPU?

Excuse me for my very average English, I'm french man.

Thank you in advance for your answers.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eXistencelies*
> 
> If I understand your question correctly then it would be the fan near the back of the case and the middle fan slot to accommodate the 280mm rad + 140mm fans. Actually I am using GTS 360 rads which are pretty slim. In fact they are the best performing slim rads.
> Thanks! You are correct, though I think it is doable it will just be a VERY TIGHT fit. You'll have more room having the ports at the bottom and it will look much cleaner. With my reservoir there it blocks the ports if I would have flipped the rad around. Now there was a guy on here some pages back who made custom feet for the Evolv TG so that it would sit higher. This way he was able to mount a 420mm (I think 420mm. If not then it was another 360mm) rad under neath the case. He then routed tubing out the backside of the case. Would be pretty cool and I have thought about it to give my hardware that extra cooling as the airflow in this case is meh.


I see. Then that makes the top right fan slot a 120mm only since it cannot hold another 140mm fan/rad space?

That's not good news to me then. I'm planning on using a 280mm GTS on top too. What specific problems did you have with tube routing if you didn't remove th radiator tray?


----------



## eXistencelies

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> I see. Then that makes the top right fan slot a 120mm only since it cannot hold another 140mm fan/rad space?
> 
> That's not good news to me then. I'm planning on using a 280mm GTS on top too. What specific problems did you have with tube routing if you didn't remove th radiator tray?


If you use two 140mm fans you won't have space for another 120mm fan. Though you will be able to have the connections to your front 360mm rad up top instead of down in the bay. You can easily run a 280mm up top and a 360mm in front. That is what the case is designed for. If I didn't remove the radiator tray my reservoir wouldn't be able to sit where it is now. I probably have a 1/4" spacing between the top of my reservoir and the fan. Removing the tray gave me about 1/2" more movement up into the top cavity. It also shows more of the motherboard.

See how thick that rad is and how low it sits into the case covering a lot of the motherboard? Yea I don't like that at all..


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eXistencelies*
> 
> If you use two 140mm fans you won't have space for another 120mm fan. Though you will be able to have the connections to your front 360mm rad up top instead of down in the bay. You can easily run a 280mm up top and a 360mm in front. That is what the case is designed for. If I didn't remove the radiator tray my reservoir wouldn't be able to sit where it is now. I probably have a 1/4" spacing between the top of my reservoir and the fan. Removing the tray gave me about 1/2" more movement up into the top cavity. It also shows more of the motherboard.
> 
> See how thick that rad is and how low it sits into the case covering a lot of the motherboard? Yea I don't like that at all..


Ok, I hear what you're saying. So technically you can put the 280mm rad anywhere along the length of the top radiator bracket (I see that the screw holes of the bracket aren't fixed allowing for movement along its length) and not limited to just the rear fan slot and the middle fan slot, correct?

I'm a noob in watercooling as this would be my first build but I'm planning something like this:

H220X (pump+res combo, rad, CPU waterblock)

GPU waterblock

Additional Black Ice 280 GTS radiator

Reservoir (not sure which one to use, yet, but do you have any suggestions assuming that I don't remove the top rad bracket and considering the height of the res?)

Phanteks Enthoo Evolv ATX case

I was thinking to mount the H220X in the front in this orientation so that the tubes are in the bottom. Would that be better or the other way around wherein the tubes are at the top?

And for the top 280mm rad, which is better between mounting it where its ports are toward the front of the case and mounting it where the ports are toward the rear of the case?


----------



## Benny89

Phanteks will be shipping replacement of TG window for me. Good experience!


----------



## eXistencelies

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Ok, I hear what you're saying. So technically you can put the 280mm rad anywhere along the length of the top radiator bracket (I see that the screw holes of the bracket aren't fixed allowing for movement along its length) and not limited to just the rear fan slot and the middle fan slot, correct?
> 
> I'm a noob in watercooling as this would be my first build but I'm planning something like this:
> 
> H220X (pump+res combo, rad, CPU waterblock)
> GPU waterblock
> Additional Black Ice 280 GTS radiator
> Reservoir (not sure which one to use, yet, but do you have any suggestions assuming that I don't remove the top rad bracket and considering the height of the res?)
> Phanteks Enthoo Evolv ATX case
> 
> I was thinking to mount the H220X in the front in this orientation so that the tubes are in the bottom. Would that be better or the other way around wherein the tubes are at the top?
> 
> And for the top 280mm rad, which is better between mounting it where its ports are toward the front of the case and mounting it where the ports are toward the rear of the case?


You can easily fit a 360mm up top and a 280mm on the front as well. It will sit a little low if you do not remove the radiator tray. Drilling 4 small screw holes into the crossbeams won't cause any problems. That is if you are ok with doing that.

If you are getting a pump+reso combo then you don't need another reso unless you want it for aesthetic purposes. It seems with that H220x it is a closed loop system so you won't be doing any custom bends or anything. If you want a custom loop I suggest you purchase a EK D5-Pump + Res along with their CPU and GPU blocks. Like I said it depends on your setup. Custom designing your loop is to your likings.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eXistencelies*
> 
> You can easily fit a 360mm up top and a 280mm on the front as well. It will sit a little low if you do not remove the radiator tray. Drilling 4 small screw holes into the crossbeams won't cause any problems. That is if you are ok with doing that.
> 
> If you are getting a pump+reso combo then you don't need another reso unless you want it for aesthetic purposes. It seems with that H220x it is a closed loop system so you won't be doing any custom bends or anything. If you want a custom loop I suggest you purchase a EK D5-Pump + Res along with their CPU and GPU blocks. Like I said it depends on your setup. Custom designing your loop is to your likings.


The H220X is initially a closed loop but is designed for expansion to a full custom water loop, if you're not familiar with it. It has a 240mm rad plus res/pump combo. I plan to mount the whole unit in the fron and the 280mm rad on top. A reservoir is also recommended for eady filling/bleeding.

What do you mean by custom bends? I will be using soft tubing.

Oh and I don't feel like drilling into the case as much as possible. So my questions in my previous post still stand if you don't mind


----------



## eXistencelies

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> The H220X is initially a closed loop but is designed for expansion to a full custom water loop, if you're not familiar with it. It has a 240mm rad plus res/pump combo. I plan to mount the whole unit in the fron and the 280mm rad on top. A reservoir is also recommended for eady filling/bleeding.
> 
> What do you mean by custom bends? I will be using soft tubing.
> 
> Oh and I don't feel like drilling into the case as much as possible. So my questions in my previous post still stand if you don't mind


Are their rads copper or aluminum on the inside? If the latter I would steer clear away from those as they tend to corrode after long use. Bending tube is for hard tubing. Like PETG. You make your own custom HARD bends. You'll also want a ball valve fitting for your easy drain and make sure you leave room so you can fill easy too.,


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eXistencelies*
> 
> Are their rads copper or aluminum on the inside? If the latter I would steer clear away from those as they tend to corrode after long use. Bending tube is for hard tubing. Like PETG. You make your own custom HARD bends. You'll also want a ball valve fitting for your easy drain and make sure you leave room so you can fill easy too.,


They're "Brass tubes, louvered copper fins". Swiftech is considered one of the leading premium brands in the watercooling industry and their products are top notch.

So technically you can put the 280mm rad anywhere along the length of the top radiator bracket (I see that the screw holes of the bracket aren't fixed allowing for movement along its length) and not limited to just the rear fan slot and the middle fan slot, correct?

What reservoir height can this case accommodate with the 280mm GTS and 25mm-thick fans installed in the top and without the rad bracket removed?

Yeah, I was thinking about the ball valve fitting as well. Do you always do the filling on top of the reservoir with a fill line?


----------



## eXistencelies

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> They're "Brass tubes, louvered copper fins". Swiftech is considered one of the leading premium brands in the watercooling industry and their products are top notch.
> 
> So technically you can put the 280mm rad anywhere along the length of the top radiator bracket (I see that the screw holes of the bracket aren't fixed allowing for movement along its length) and not limited to just the rear fan slot and the middle fan slot, correct?
> 
> What reservoir height can this case accommodate with the 280mm GTS and 25mm-thick fans installed in the top and without the rad bracket removed?
> 
> Yeah, I was thinking about the ball valve fitting as well. Do you always do the filling on top of the reservoir with a fill line?


Ahh ok. Well you know more about them then I do. I just stick with EK as a lot of their water cooling parts are top notch. I am not sure if you can put it anywhere. I never really looked at the rad tray. I want to say yes to being able to have a slider type screw hole that gives you a tolerance.

I use 250mm reservoir in mine with the tray removed. You won't be able to fit that in there with the pump when sitting on top of the pump bracket. I have my pump sitting in the basement with a small 2" tube feeding to the reservoir. I put my drain at the bottom of my loop which is "Teed" off the radiator. I made my own fill port tube that bends down into the top of the reservoir. I also have an added top port fill to my reservoir that you purchase separately. You always fill it at the top of your reservoir. Never run your pump DRY.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eXistencelies*
> 
> Ahh ok. Well you know more about them then I do. I just stick with EK as a lot of their water cooling parts are top notch. I am not sure if you can put it anywhere. I never really looked at the rad tray. I want to say yes to being able to have a slider type screw hole that gives you a tolerance.
> 
> I use 250mm reservoir in mine with the tray removed. You won't be able to fit that in there with the pump when sitting on top of the pump bracket. I have my pump sitting in the basement with a small 2" tube feeding to the reservoir. I put my drain at the bottom of my loop which is "Teed" off the radiator. I made my own fill port tube that bends down into the top of the reservoir. I also have an added top port fill to my reservoir that you purchase separately. You always fill it at the top of your reservoir. Never run your pump DRY.


But without a pump, can the 250mm reservoir fit in there? Do you have the metal piece put in place between the lower basement and the reservoir area in your case? I'm not sure if you get what I mean with that question but I'm assuming there's some kind of division between the pump area in the bottom chamber and the reservoir area in the main chamber, right?

So you can only install a drain valve either in the rad or in the reservoir whichever is the lowest in the loop, correct?

Is this what you have installed as the additional top fill port that goes into the top of your case and into the top of the reservoir? Did you drill a hole for that to fit?

Do you happen to have any close-up pics that would help answer my questions?


----------



## nycgtr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> But without a pump, can the 250mm reservoir fit in there? Do you have the metal piece put in place between the lower basement and the reservoir area in your case? I'm not sure if you get what I mean with that question but I'm assuming there's some kind of division between the pump area in the bottom chamber and the reservoir area in the main chamber, right?
> 
> So you can only install a drain valve either in the rad or in the reservoir whichever is the lowest in the loop, correct?
> 
> Is this what you have installed as the additional top fill port that goes into the top of your case and into the top of the reservoir? Did you drill a hole for that to fit?
> 
> Do you happen to have any close-up pics that would help answer my questions?


I have a 250 bitspower that I tried to fit. You can get it into the case, the hassle to fill it is another. if you only have a front rad it's much more feasible.


----------



## RyuBlade94

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eXistencelies*
> 
> Thanks! You are correct, though I think it is doable it will just be a VERY TIGHT fit. You'll have more room having the ports at the bottom and it will look much cleaner. With my reservoir there it blocks the ports if I would have flipped the rad around. Now there was a guy on here some pages back who made custom feet for the Evolv TG so that it would sit higher. This way he was able to mount a 420mm (I think 420mm. If not then it was another 360mm) rad under neath the case. He then routed tubing out the backside of the case. Would be pretty cool and I have thought about it to give my hardware that extra cooling as the airflow in this case is meh.


I see, well, i do want a dual 360mm radiator setup, so i guess i'll have to mod it! One more question if i may ask (this is kind of a newbish question): how did you fix the resevoir on the case? Did you have to do any modding for that or you didn't need to? Do the brackets to support it come with the case and/or the resevoir or you need to get them separately?
Thanks you once more!


----------



## eXistencelies

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> But without a pump, can the 250mm reservoir fit in there? Do you have the metal piece put in place between the lower basement and the reservoir area in your case? I'm not sure if you get what I mean with that question but I'm assuming there's some kind of division between the pump area in the bottom chamber and the reservoir area in the main chamber, right?
> 
> So you can only install a drain valve either in the rad or in the reservoir whichever is the lowest in the loop, correct?
> 
> Is this what you have installed as the additional top fill port that goes into the top of your case and into the top of the reservoir? Did you drill a hole for that to fit?
> 
> Do you happen to have any close-up pics that would help answer my questions?


My 250mm res fits snug on top of the pump plate. I used two sided tape to mount my pump in the basement of the case. Right where the HDD drive bays are. I took those hdd drive bays out though. I do have the metal piece in place. If you go back to my link you can see the metal plate that I notched out for the front 360 rad and a hole for the tubing. It also has rubber edges added to give it a clean look as the cuts were pretty crappy using a dremmel lol.

I mean you really don't have to install on either. You just want it at the bottom most part of your loop due to gravity. You could place it out the back of your case as well and just tip your case around. I will say though it is a heavy case. So I prefer to have it at the bottom part of the loop and all I have to do is tilt it after the majority of it comes out.

Here is the top port I use https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-res-x3-top-v2-multiport and when I go to fill it up I attach a compression fitting then tighten with my fill tube in place. I then remove it and just put a block fitting there so no coolant leaks out.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RyuBlade94*
> 
> I see, well, i do want a dual 360mm radiator setup, so i guess i'll have to mod it! One more question if i may ask (this is kind of a newbish question): how did you fix the resevoir on the case? Did you have to do any modding for that or you didn't need to? Do the brackets to support it come with the case and/or the resevoir or you need to get them separately?
> Thanks you once more!


Yes you will have to do some light modding if you want to fit two 360's. Drilling holes aren't going to cause any problems. You can't even tell they are there when the top panel is on anyways.

IIRC I drilled a small hole or two for those reservoir brackets. I think I used the reservoir brackets...It has been close to a year so I can't recall if the case had the reservoir brackets or the res came with them.


----------



## nycgtr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RyuBlade94*
> 
> I see, well, i do want a dual 360mm radiator setup, so i guess i'll have to mod it! One more question if i may ask (this is kind of a newbish question): how did you fix the resevoir on the case? Did you have to do any modding for that or you didn't need to? Do the brackets to support it come with the case and/or the resevoir or you need to get them separately?
> Thanks you once more!


I have 2 360s without modding. You just need to be careful about the rad length that goes on top.


----------



## eXistencelies

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nycgtr*
> 
> I have 2 360s without modding. You just need to be careful about the rad length that goes on top.


How did you mount the top 360 then? Zip ties?


----------



## nycgtr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eXistencelies*
> 
> How did you mount the top 360 then? Zip ties?


No mine is right on the bracket. I loosely screwed it in then I moved it back to allow the front rad to fit in. The edge of the case on the rear.




It's a very close fit. We have the same rads. I see you modded yours to fit a reg size fan on the back, I just used a slim one.


----------



## eXistencelies

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nycgtr*
> 
> No mine is right on the bracket. I loosely screwed it in then I moved it back to allow the front rad to fit in. The edge of the case on the rear.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's a very close fit. We have the same rads. I see you modded yours to fit a reg size fan on the back, I just used a slim one.


Ahh i see...So wait....did you remove the rad tray or are you using it? It seems your rad+fans sit pretty low in the case.


----------



## nycgtr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eXistencelies*
> 
> Ahh i see...So wait....did you remove the rad tray or are you using it? It seems your rad+fans sit pretty low in the case.


I am using the rad tray without any modification to it. I simply loosely attached the rad so I could slide it back. Then i tightened it into place.


----------



## eXistencelies

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nycgtr*
> 
> I am using the rad tray without any modification to it. I simply loosely attached the rad so I could slide it back. Then i tightened it into place.


That is what I figured in your pics. Good setup. I jsut don't like blocking a lot of the motherboard hence why I removed the tray in my build.


----------



## nycgtr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eXistencelies*
> 
> That is what I figured in your pics. Good setup. I jsut don't like blocking a lot of the motherboard hence why I removed the tray in my build.


Yea i thought about not using it but My fans would still block the qled lol, that's my only concern tbh. I can still see it from an angle so I saw no point at the end. I also wanted to have more air space up there with the lid the way it is. However, now that my top is being cut it makes no difference now. Maybe in the future but for now I am done with this messing with this case.


----------



## Benny89

Phanteks Evolv ATX Temepered Glass is ready with its new 1080Ti on board







Awesome case!


----------



## nycgtr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benny89*
> 
> Phanteks Evolv ATX Temepered Glass is ready with its new 1080Ti on board
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Awesome case!


Why not mout the aio to the front. I'd think you get better temps tbh.


----------



## Benny89

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nycgtr*
> 
> Why not mout the aio to the front. I'd think you get better temps tbh.


I don't like how it looks in front, I prefer it on top, looks better in my opinion. Temps with Kronaout thermal paste are already great


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nycgtr*
> 
> I have a 250 bitspower that I tried to fit. You can get it into the case, the hassle to fill it is another. if you only have a front rad it's much more feasible.


Ok. So what reservoir length would you suggest fot easy filling?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eXistencelies*
> 
> My 250mm res fits snug on top of the pump plate. I used two sided tape to mount my pump in the basement of the case. Right where the HDD drive bays are. I took those hdd drive bays out though. I do have the metal piece in place. If you go back to my link you can see the metal plate that I notched out for the front 360 rad and a hole for the tubing. It also has rubber edges added to give it a clean look as the cuts were pretty crappy using a dremmel lol.
> 
> I mean you really don't have to install on either. You just want it at the bottom most part of your loop due to gravity. You could place it out the back of your case as well and just tip your case around. I will say though it is a heavy case. So I prefer to have it at the bottom part of the loop and all I have to do is tilt it after the majority of it comes out.
> 
> Here is the top port I use https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-res-x3-top-v2-multiport and when I go to fill it up I attach a compression fitting then tighten with my fill tube in place. I then remove it and just put a block fitting there so no coolant leaks out.


With the 250 res, are you not having a hard time when refilling though?

Yeah but like I said, would you install the valve on the H220X drain port if that port is lower than the standalone res ports?

What is the use of that top being multiport? It says in the description that you can use the other top ports as outlet ports but why would you want to do that in a res?


----------



## nycgtr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Ok. So what reservoir length would you suggest fot easy filling?
> With the 250 res, are you not having a hard time when refilling though?
> 
> Yeah but like I said, would you install the valve on the H220X drain port if that port is lower than the standalone res ports?
> 
> What is the use of that top being multiport? It says in the description that you can use the other top ports as outlet ports but why would you want to do that in a res?


I wouldn't go over 150ml

#1) It just easier to build with in this case

#2) It just looks better. A large res always looks good but this case is a mid size and it looks a bit out of place.


----------



## nycgtr

So I got evolv my top cut figured I post it here and in the evolv thread for those interested. Joe over at ModMyMods did this for me. Very reasonable pricing and I highly suggest you guys to hit him up. Joe was very accommodating in offering to cut this panel by request, and was in constant contact about the panel. I sent him just a basic idea of what I wanted and he got it done.







I choose to use a decimex filter (which amazon sent to me with some wrinkles which I will have to iron out or eventually replace it with modders mesh). I think for a cost effective measure this was a great job to a very problematic solution to us evolv owners.











Okay edited should be bigger now.


----------



## boredgunner

^ Pics are tiny but I think I'm gonna have to do that.

- EDIT: Yeah, looking good. Thanks for the heads up, I'll be doing that with my Evolv.


----------



## Mega Man

fyi. either middle click the pic and check the new tab or right click > open in new window or click> click button that says original below the pic to the right


----------



## Dorito Bandit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nycgtr*
> 
> So I got evolv my top cut figured I post it here and in the evolv thread for those interested. Joe over at ModMyMods did this for me. Very reasonable pricing and I highly suggest you guys to hit him up. Joe was very accommodating in offering to cut this panel by request, and was in constant contact about the panel. I sent him just a basic idea of what I wanted and he got it done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I choose to use a decimex filter (which amazon sent to me with some wrinkles which I will have to iron out or eventually replace it with modders mesh). I think for a cost effective measure this was a great job to a very problematic solution to us evolv owners.
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Okay edited should be bigger now.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *boredgunner*
> 
> ^ Pics are tiny but I think I'm gonna have to do that.
> 
> - EDIT: Yeah, looking good. Thanks for the heads up, I'll be doing that with my Evolv.


Temps not that great in the Evolv ATX for y'all?


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dorito Bandit*
> 
> Temps not that great in the Evolv ATX for y'all?


Ok. Good. Fine. Meh. But I guess not "great". I think the key is it can go from good to bad real quick with the wrong setup or parts.


----------



## boredgunner

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dorito Bandit*
> 
> Temps not that great in the Evolv ATX for y'all?


I think it's only concerning for anything cooled by a top mounted radiator. For me, that's my CPU. I'm waiting for EK's new modular AIOs to land, will check out reviews and feedback, and if they're good I'll pick up a 360mm and mount it in the front. I'll still get my top panel taken care of anyway.


----------



## pez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nycgtr*
> 
> So I got evolv my top cut figured I post it here and in the evolv thread for those interested. Joe over at ModMyMods did this for me. Very reasonable pricing and I highly suggest you guys to hit him up. Joe was very accommodating in offering to cut this panel by request, and was in constant contact about the panel. I sent him just a basic idea of what I wanted and he got it done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I choose to use a decimex filter (which amazon sent to me with some wrinkles which I will have to iron out or eventually replace it with modders mesh). I think for a cost effective measure this was a great job to a very problematic solution to us evolv owners.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Okay edited should be bigger now.


That looks great, man! Nice work!


----------



## Benny89

I have only one grip with Phanteks cases. How easly their aluminium surface scratches. I was dismounting SSD disk from the side bracket (the one attached to PSU shroud) and when pulling cable out of SSD it just barely touched the aluminium shroud and you can see under light and certain angle already darker than surface little scratches (like one 8 mm and two 2 mm).

Also when I was putting my system together and put AIO pump really really delicate and carefull on side. It scratches aluminium again with just a touch&#8230;

Like how the hell is this coating made? I am afraid it will scratch from looking at it&#8230;

My previous 780T Corsair was plastic black matte inside and didn't scratch that easly at all&#8230;


----------



## Benny89

Those "scratches" at PSU shroud are strange. They are darker than the rest of the black aluminium under light and certain angle. They are also rounded, not straight. Usually scratches are lighter than aluminium. Those are blackish, darker.

Strange... Any idea what is it?


----------



## RyuBlade94

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eXistencelies*
> 
> Here is the top port I use https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-res-x3-top-v2-multiport and when I go to fill it up I attach a compression fitting then tighten with my fill tube in place. I then remove it and just put a block fitting there so no coolant leaks out.
> Yes you will have to do some light modding if you want to fit two 360's. Drilling holes aren't going to cause any problems. You can't even tell they are there when the top panel is on anyways.
> 
> IIRC I drilled a small hole or two for those reservoir brackets. I think I used the reservoir brackets...It has been close to a year so I can't recall if the case had the reservoir brackets or the res came with them.


I see, thanks once more for your help!
Another thing about this case: i know it has airflow issues, expecially in the top radiator bracket, and considering i am going to aim for silence on this build i kind of want to mod the case to fix this issue. If i cut an opening in the top cover and install the radiator on the frame of the case, removing the radiator bracket, will this all solve airflow issues or do i need some other mod? Thanks!


----------



## xTesla1856

Hey guys, I need a bit of airflow advice for my Enthoo Luxe TG: I'm building a custom loop and already mounted the rads, fans and pump. Here's the config so far:

-EK CoolStream PE 240 (Front mounted), 2x Vardar 120mm 2200rpm INTAKE
-EK CoolStream PE 360 (Top mounted), 3x Vardar 120mm 2200rpm EXHAUST
-EK Revo XRES 100 D5 PWM (Front mounted, on the 120mm rad bracket)

Now I stil have some available spots to put fans, namely a 140mm in the back and another 140 or 120mm in the bottom in front of the radiator. How would you go about optimising airflow inside the case? I already removed the metal plate in front of the intake fans, so that helps a lot. Would push/pull help at all?

Thanks for your help


----------



## eXistencelies

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Ok. So what reservoir length would you suggest fot easy filling?
> With the 250 res, are you not having a hard time when refilling though?
> 
> Yeah but like I said, would you install the valve on the H220X drain port if that port is lower than the standalone res ports?
> 
> What is the use of that top being multiport? It says in the description that you can use the other top ports as outlet ports but why would you want to do that in a res?


A 150ml is probably ideal for your build. The use of my multiport was so I can could finish my loop to the top of the reservoir. The coolant falls down into the reservoir. Also since it is multiport that is also where I fill. It is pretty easy filling up. I just remove one of the block off fittings. Attach my compression fitting then attach custom bent fill tube. I then tighten it down. From there I will tape the tube to the top of the case so I don't have to hold it. Attach a funnel to top of tube as well. Start filling it up.


----------



## eXistencelies

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RyuBlade94*
> 
> I see, thanks once more for your help!
> Another thing about this case: i know it has airflow issues, expecially in the top radiator bracket, and considering i am going to aim for silence on this build i kind of want to mod the case to fix this issue. If i cut an opening in the top cover and install the radiator on the frame of the case, removing the radiator bracket, will this all solve airflow issues or do i need some other mod? Thanks!


Honestly you should just do that mod the guy did a few posts above. I really want to do it as well. Looks awesome!!! The only thing removing the rad tray will do it give you more room. Yes it will actually give you better cooling if you use your fans in PULL. I hate pushing warm air through rads. This is why I have my front setup as push which is pushing cool air from outside and the top rad setup as pull which is pulling in cool air from outside. Then I make my 140mm fan do all the exhaust work. I'm such a mean guy lol.


----------



## nycgtr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dorito Bandit*
> 
> Temps not that great in the Evolv ATX for y'all?


With the lid on, I can feel the heat being trapped in the top rad. Even though I sealed up all the unused opennings at the top. One of my gpus gets up to 60c under load after about a couple hours with the lid on. With the lid off my hottest gpu in sli is 49c with fans all fans sub 1400 rpm. At 1200 rpm is when I can hear my fans somewhat going. I expect with the cut top to have relatively the same temps. 49 and 45c (running my parallel block in reverse some how this is the highest temp diff ive seen in parallel) loaded on the gpus after a few hours is quite good to me. My ambient is about 27-30c. Water temp sits at 32-33 idle normally.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eXistencelies*
> 
> A 150ml is probably ideal for your build. The use of my multiport was so I can could finish my loop to the top of the reservoir. The coolant falls down into the reservoir. Also since it is multiport that is also where I fill. It is pretty easy filling up. I just remove one of the block off fittings. Attach my compression fitting then attach custom bent fill tube. I then tighten it down. From there I will tape the tube to the top of the case so I don't have to hold it. Attach a funnel to top of tube as well. Start filling it up.


I thought both tubes going in to and out from the reservoir should be on the bottom so that the liquid doesn't go below the level of both ports when filling? How is it different when you put the return tube on top of the res?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nycgtr*
> 
> With the lid on, I can feel the heat being trapped in the top rad. Even though I sealed up all the unused opennings at the top. One of my gpus gets up to 60c under load after about a couple hours with the lid on. With the lid off my hottest gpu in sli is 49c with fans all fans sub 1400 rpm. At 1200 rpm is when I can hear my fans somewhat going. I expect with the cut top to have relatively the same temps. 49 and 45c (running my parallel block in reverse some how this is the highest temp diff ive seen in parallel) loaded on the gpus after a few hours is quite good to me. My ambient is about 27-30c. Water temp sits at 32-33 idle normally.


That's interesting. That's a significant drop in temps. I thought the top panel airflow issues are overrated and can be easily worked around? @doyll explained how to do that in my thread here:

http://www.overclock.net/t/1627438/best-bang-for-the-buck-mid-tower-atx-case

Any comments on that?


----------



## nycgtr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> I thought both tubes going in to and out from the reservoir should be on the bottom so that the liquid doesn't go below the level of both ports when filling? How is it different when you put the return tube on top of the res?
> 
> That's interesting. That's a significant drop in temps. I thought the top panel airflow issues are overrated and can be easily worked around? @doyll explained how to do that in my thread here:
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1627438/best-bang-for-the-buck-mid-tower-atx-case
> 
> Any comments on that?


I have left the top resting before, and pressing the power button becomes annoying lol. I've had the top open areas on the tray sealed since day 1. The top resting brings a 3c-4c reduction, it's not bad but not good enough to me. Yes high 50s loaded on the gpu is more than acceptable but I built system in winter and my apartment now has an ambient of 27-30 depending on the heating level. However, come summer time it's going to be a higher ambient. The front panel I have used a 3-4mm longer screw to create more of a gap that it's hard to tell from the outside. Sure you can use the top lid rested and get away with decent temps. However, I rather address the issue and get even better temps. To have 2 360s cooling 3 components and see a high 50s on a gpu these days is ridiculous to me in a decent ambient. I didn't invest that much into my loop to be outdone by an aio with zipties. I think my cut top looks fine. Sure a custom cnc design and re anodized job would look even better but I am not paying the cost of the case to mod the top. As each job is different in cost, I would say hit up modmymods with something you'd like done about the top the cost is more than fair.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nycgtr*
> 
> I have left the top resting before, and pressing the power button becomes annoying lol. I've had the top open areas on the tray sealed since day 1. The top resting brings a 3c-4c reduction, it's not bad but not good enough to me. Yes high 50s loaded on the gpu is more than acceptable but I built system in winter and my apartment now has an ambient of 27-30 depending on the heating level. However, come summer time it's going to be a higher ambient. The front panel I have used a 3-4mm longer screw to create more of a gap that it's hard to tell from the outside. Sure you can use the top lid rested and get away with decent temps. However, I rather address the issue and get even better temps. To have 2 360s cooling 3 components and see a high 50s on a gpu these days is ridiculous to me in a decent ambient. I didn't invest that much into my loop to be outdone by an aio with zipties. I think my cut top looks fine. Sure a custom cnc design and re anodized job would look even better but I am not paying the cost of the case to mod the top. As each job is different in cost, I would say hit up modmymods with something you'd like done about the top the cost is more than fair.


Well, the thing is that I still don't have this case. I'm planning for a custom waterloop and I'm considering this case because of its looks. But I'm still undecided because of all these so-called "issues" with it.


----------



## nycgtr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Well, the thing is that I still don't have this case. I'm planning for a custom waterloop and I'm considering this case because of its looks. But I'm still undecided because of all these so-called "issues" with it.


Depends on what you have on hand. If you already have loop components on hand they may or may not work well for you. The only component on hand of mine outside of blocks that made it into this case from my last loop was the pump. I am not counting fittings as that's a given. I wasn't too happy about buying 2 rads when I had 5 but they weren't optimal either thermally or visually. If i had to do it all over again, I would of gotten the luxe tg instead. Or even just get the clear glass for the primo I was in lol. However, I do like this case a lot and the end result is something I am content with.


----------



## dlewbell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nycgtr*
> 
> I have left the top resting before, and pressing the power button becomes annoying lol. I've had the top open areas on the tray sealed since day 1. The top resting brings a 3c-4c reduction, it's not bad but not good enough to me. Yes high 50s loaded on the gpu is more than acceptable but I built system in winter and my apartment now has an ambient of 27-30 depending on the heating level. However, come summer time it's going to be a higher ambient. The front panel I have used a 3-4mm longer screw to create more of a gap that it's hard to tell from the outside. Sure you can use the top lid rested and get away with decent temps. However, I rather address the issue and get even better temps. To have 2 360s cooling 3 components and see a high 50s on a gpu these days is ridiculous to me in a decent ambient. I didn't invest that much into my loop to be outdone by an aio with zipties. I think my cut top looks fine. Sure a custom cnc design and re anodized job would look even better but I am not paying the cost of the case to mod the top. As each job is different in cost, I would say hit up modmymods with something you'd like done about the top the cost is more than fair.


I wouldn't consider 27°C-30°C a reasonable ambient temperature. Typical room temperature for a building with functional heat & air is closer to 21°C (70°F). If your environment were closer to typical, you'd be talking about GPU temperatures in the hi 40s to low 50s instead of high 50s, & I suspect you'd be more satisfied with the performance. I understand that sometimes environmental temperatures are beyond your control, & you have to work with what you have. I just want others making personal decisions based on your experience to be aware that you're working in a more difficult environment than may be typical.


----------



## nycgtr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dlewbell*
> 
> I wouldn't consider 27°C-30°C a reasonable ambient temperature. Typical room temperature for a building with functional heat & air is closer to 21°C (70°F). If your environment were closer to typical, you'd be talking about GPU temperatures in the hi 40s to low 50s instead of high 50s, & I suspect you'd be more satisfied with the performance. I understand that sometimes environmental temperatures are beyond your control, & you have to work with what you have. I just want others making personal decisions based on your experience to be aware that you're working in a more difficult environment than may be typical.


I live in an prewar building in manhattan and we don't have control over the heating. So it's usually 24 to 30c depending on how high the heat is jacked up. However, when its like 17F outside I rather be warm inside with tshirt and shorts than bundled up. However, the fact remains that the top suffocates the radiator. I don't think there's one person here who hasn't experienced at least a 5c drop under a constant load with the lid off on a full loop.


----------



## eXistencelies

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nycgtr*
> 
> With the lid on, I can feel the heat being trapped in the top rad. Even though I sealed up all the unused opennings at the top. One of my gpus gets up to 60c under load after about a couple hours with the lid on. With the lid off my hottest gpu in sli is 49c with fans all fans sub 1400 rpm. At 1200 rpm is when I can hear my fans somewhat going. I expect with the cut top to have relatively the same temps. 49 and 45c (running my parallel block in reverse some how this is the highest temp diff ive seen in parallel) loaded on the gpus after a few hours is quite good to me. My ambient is about 27-30c. Water temp sits at 32-33 idle normally.


If I may ask what did you pay to get the cut done and the material piece you put in? Also this is all USA, right?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> I thought both tubes going in to and out from the reservoir should be on the bottom so that the liquid doesn't go below the level of both ports when filling? How is it different when you put the return tube on top of the res?


You can have your return tube anywhere. Just as long you aren't starving your pump motor of coolant. Some people have their return tube going back to the bottom of the reservoir and nothing wrong with that. I thought having the return tube on the top of the reservoir would look great and it does. The pump sucks out the coolant from the bottom of the reservoir, pumps it into the front radiator, flows into the GPU block, flows into the top radiator, flows into the CPU block, the flows back into the reservoir completing the loop.


----------



## nycgtr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eXistencelies*
> 
> If I may ask what did you pay to get the cut done and the material piece you put in? Also this is all USA, right?


Modmymods is located in Rochester Ny. It cost me less than 10 bucks to ship it over. As for the cost it varies on what you want but for my job it was a very very decent price. Labor is different per job like any other service but for something like mine expect the 40ish range is what I was told. I would think that if it was something many of us were willing to group do, a cnc run would be worked out by them at perhaps a better cost. The material I placed in was a magnetic demciflex filter 2x180mm OD. I wanted a firmer mesh but didn't look into it. Considering that it's easily removable that is an option further down the line.


----------



## eXistencelies

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nycgtr*
> 
> Modmymods is located in Rochester Ny. It cost me less than 10 bucks to ship it over. As for the cost it varies on what you want but for my job it was a very very decent price. Labor is different per job like any other service but for something like mine expect the 40ish range is what I was told. The material I placed in was a magnetic demciflex filter 2x180mm OD. I wanted a firmer mesh but didn't look into it. Considering that it's easily removable that is an option further down the line.


Seriously it would be the exact same you had done.


----------



## d3vilMod

Project DesertStorm - Enthoo Primo

WIP

what do you think about it????










Inviato dal mio SM-G900F utilizzando Tapatalk


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nycgtr*
> 
> Depends on what you have on hand. If you already have loop components on hand they may or may not work well for you. The only component on hand of mine outside of blocks that made it into this case from my last loop was the pump. I am not counting fittings as that's a given. I wasn't too happy about buying 2 rads when I had 5 but they weren't optimal either thermally or visually. If i had to do it all over again, I would of gotten the luxe tg instead. Or even just get the clear glass for the primo I was in lol. However, I do like this case a lot and the end result is something I am content with.


Right now, what I only have is the Swiftech H220X. I'll buy a GTX 1080Ti, GPU waterblock, additional res, additional 280mm rad, tubings, and fittings next month as I will be in the US. But I still don't have a firm choice for a good casing.

Are those 5.25" bays and HDD cages removable on the Luxe TG? What advantage does it have over the Evolv ATX TG?


----------



## nycgtr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Right now, what I only have is the Swiftech H220X. I'll buy a GTX 1080Ti, GPU waterblock, additional res, additional 280mm rad, tubings, and fittings next month as I will be in the US. But I still don't have a firm choice for a good casing.
> 
> Are those 5.25" bays and HDD cages removable on the Luxe TG? What advantage does it have over the Evolv ATX TG?


It's a bigger case so your more flexible in what you want to do. It also has better airflow from the get go. The hdd cages are removable, the panel with the 5.25 should be removable with screws. Not 100% sure on that. I know on the primo half were screws and half were rivets.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nycgtr*
> 
> It's a bigger case so your more flexible in what you want to do. It also has better airflow from the get go. The hdd cages are removable, the panel with the 5.25 should be removable with screws. Not 100% sure on that. I know on the primo half were screws and half were rivets.


But the Evolv ATX is so much more pretty than the Luxe, there's that


----------



## KaffieneKing

@d3vilMod looking good, bet that was a mare to paint!


----------



## d3vilMod

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaffieneKing*
> 
> @d3vilMod looking good, bet that was a mare to paint!


you can see all the photo here









Project DesertStorm


----------



## kevindd992002

Reply from Phanteks USA regarding the updated version of the Evolv ATX:

"There is no ETA for the update as it will be a running change."


----------



## nycgtr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Reply from Phanteks USA regarding the updated version of the Evolv ATX:
> 
> "There is no ETA for the update as it will be a running change."


Don't think they have any reason to, outside of a usb gen 3.1, which is just starting to show up on motherboards.


----------



## boredgunner

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nycgtr*
> 
> Don't think they have any reason to, outside of a usb gen 3.1, which is just starting to show up on motherboards.


They should also improve the ventilation, particularly with the top panel. And they probably want to use the Evolv mATX TG's side panel mounting design.


----------



## nycgtr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *boredgunner*
> 
> They should also improve the ventilation, particularly with the top panel. And they probably want to use the Evolv mATX TG's side panel mounting design.


They could of done both when the TG version was introduced and they didn't. It's not the like the top wasn't an issue on the first one.


----------



## krutoydiesel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nycgtr*
> 
> So I got evolv my top cut figured I post it here and in the evolv thread for those interested. Joe over at ModMyMods did this for me. Very reasonable pricing and I highly suggest you guys to hit him up. Joe was very accommodating in offering to cut this panel by request, and was in constant contact about the panel. I sent him just a basic idea of what I wanted and he got it done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I choose to use a decimex filter (which amazon sent to me with some wrinkles which I will have to iron out or eventually replace it with modders mesh). I think for a cost effective measure this was a great job to a very problematic solution to us evolv owners.
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Okay edited should be bigger now.


Do you have some before/after temperature comparisons?


----------



## nycgtr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *krutoydiesel*
> 
> Do you have some before/after temperature comparisons?


I won't have the panel back until later in the week. I will post then. However, I expect it to be similar to no lid lol.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nycgtr*
> 
> Don't think they have any reason to, outside of a usb gen 3.1, which is just starting to show up on motherboards.


I was pertaining more on the hinged TG as that was what I particularly asked them. If it's the same as the updated Evolv mATX shown in CES 2017, it should also have a tinted TG on the side panel that covers the cables on the back of the motherboard.


----------



## nycgtr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> I was pertaining more on the hinged TG as that was what I particularly asked them. If it's the same as the updated Evolv mATX shown in CES 2017, it should also have a tinted TG on the side panel that covers the cables on the back of the motherboard.


I got window tint. I tinted my own car window like 10 years ago lol. I don't think this would any more difficult. However, the class making one be more wary of the rear cabling is nice too. Mine is kinda messy but much better than what i've done before.


----------



## Splash74

Ok guys im doing a project with some sponsors that has been kind enough to jump on this project so i feel ready to present abit of information about it now i will post on a build logo on the proper forum section on overclock.net

Project is named Phanteks ROG Elite and just and this is a few snapshots i have from parts i received so far and a overview of the hardware that we are using so hope you guys will support me and the crew on our mission to show to true potential of the Elite or as our internal nickname for this build is called "Caselabskiller"







just to make a point









Pics of the size of the case compared to an 2011 Audi A4s trunk






Case stripped down for measurements for radiators,custom PSU cables etc


This is the planned build with radiator sizes etc.

This is the motherboard used and its also the base ingredient for the colour scheme used for this build.

And here we have the EK RV5 Edition 10 RGB monoblock and blocks for the Dominator memory that monoblock is sexy stuff. ?

That's the colours of the customs PSU cables that one of our sponsors will supply Icemodz awesome custom sleeve company well know for their high quality work.









So there i have spammed you with pics of the build.


----------



## senna89

Hi guys

I want to buy a Phanteks Evolv ATX Tempered Glass but i dont know what is this cables :




I know one of these is the power button, but the *second cable* ( the biggest ) what is that ?
*Can i unplug it ?*


----------



## Ubbidude

Just finished my build in the evolv tg


----------



## Testing12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ubbidude*
> 
> Just finished my build in the evolv tg


Nice! Thanks for sharing.
Do you have a build log for this rig?


----------



## haszek

Changed mine a bit, decided to go with hardline too with my ryzen platform.


----------



## nycgtr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *senna89*
> 
> HELP ?


Just follow the cable and see where it goes. You can unplug any of the cables you want, it wont break anything. Also, it should labeled on the connector, I know mine is.


----------



## Remizon

Deleted


----------



## nycgtr

The top has been "evolved". Ignore the mess, the 780t is being worked on.







Will take better pics later.


----------



## boredgunner

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nycgtr*
> 
> 
> 
> The top has been "evolved". Ignore the mess, the 780t is being worked on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Will take better pics later.


Beautiful, nice and simple. I will have the same thing done to mine.


----------



## paskowitz

This is the latest iteration of my desired design. Feel free to copy this image and request something like this when modifying your top cover.


*Please not the dimensions are not perfect. This should be a reference only.


----------



## Dimensive

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rammoshe*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I really like what you did with the top! Makes me wonder why Phanteks didn't do anything like this on the EVOLV line.


----------



## Remizon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dimensive*
> 
> I really like what you did with the top! Makes me wonder why Phanteks didn't do anything like this on the EVOLV line.


Thanks!
I totally agree, I dropped 10c just by doing that mod


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dimensive*
> 
> I really like what you did with the top! Makes me wonder why Phanteks didn't do anything like this on the EVOLV line.


IMO all they really had to do was increase the height of the top panel by ~.5 an inch, increase the height of the side vents and use a less restrictive mesh on them. You would likely need to combine that with a modular top radiator bracket that doesn't have any openings.


----------



## Remizon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nycgtr*
> 
> 
> 
> The top has been "evolved". Ignore the mess, the 780t is being worked on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Will take better pics later.


Nicely done mate!


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ubbidude*
> 
> Just finished my build in the evolv tg


What sort of clearance do you have between the lowest point of the front middle 120mm fan and the middle plate? I have an H220-X that I plan on installing on an Evolv ATX when I buy it and also want to install a drain ball valve there but I'm not sure if there is enough clearance. This pic gives us an idea of the clearance but I plan to mount it the other way around like so in such a way that the fill/drain port of the H220X is on the bottom.

Also, how large is that reservoir in your system? I'm also planning on adding an extra reservoir but you can imagine that I have little space to work with when the H220X is already mounted.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *haszek*
> 
> Changed mine a bit, decided to go with hardline too with my ryzen platform.


Is that a hinged TG on an Evolv ATX?

Same question as above, how big is the reservoir in your system?


----------



## nycgtr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> What sort of clearance do you have between the lowest point of the front middle 120mm fan and the middle plate? I have an H220-X that I plan on installing on an Evolv ATX when I buy it and also want to install a drain ball valve there but I'm not sure if there is enough clearance. This pic gives us an idea of the clearance but I plan to mount it the other way around like so in such a way that the fill/drain port of the H220X is on the bottom.
> 
> Also, how large is that reservoir in your system? I'm also planning on adding an extra reservoir but you can imagine that I have little space to work with when the H220X is already mounted.
> 
> Is that a hinged TG on an Evolv ATX?
> 
> Same question as above, how big is the reservoir in your system?


its the old evolv, you can tell by the window at the bottom.


----------



## haszek

I wish it was TG, but nycgtr is correct, it's an old evolv. The res is ek xres 140


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *haszek*
> 
> I wish it was TG, but nycgtr is correct, it's an old evolv. The res is ek xres 140


Gotcha. How do reservoirs mount on this case? Do you think I can go bigger with a reservoir if I mount the H220X in the front (pump in the bottom section)?


----------



## haszek

I'm using currently bracket that you mount to radiator https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-uni-pump-bracket-120mm-fan-vertical

But also used sometime ago those holders, as they don't use too much space and are enough to hold the res https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-res-x3-holder-60mm-2pcs


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *haszek*
> 
> I'm using currently bracket that you mount to radiator https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-uni-pump-bracket-120mm-fan-vertical
> 
> But also used sometime ago those holders, as they don't use too much space and are enough to hold the res https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-res-x3-holder-60mm-2pcs


Wait, that first URL you've linked is a pump bracket and not a res bracket to rad?

I thought the Evolv ATX has a "reservoir mount" included as indicated in their product page?


----------



## haszek

ah yeah right, first one is for combo, so not for you.

I didn't have res mounts with my case, not sure how it's with TG .


----------



## kevindd992002

Ok. So here's what it says on the Evolv ATX TG manual:



So I'm assuming the res should be wall mounted. Are there wall mount accessories for reservoirs?


----------



## d3vilMod

Enthoo Primo - Project DesertStorm

vertical gpu holder ready
















Inviato dal mio SM-G900F utilizzando Tapatalk


----------



## cr1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cr1*
> 
> Phanteks is working on it..,..might just be a hinge adjustment, worse case scenario is side of case isn't flat-
> 
> Thanks!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Please let us know how you resolve the problem.


Phanteks sent me some replacement hinges, but for wrong case, they don't fit-

Phanteks also sent #2 400mm LED Strips, but a few of the colors on the different strips don't match-

I'll update as A.S.A.P.-

Thanks!


----------



## k0sTi

Hey all, just wanted to share my build in the Evolv ATX, hope you like it









Intel Core i7-7700K (Delid + Thermal Grizzly Conductonaut)
GIGABYTE AORUS GA-Z270X-Gaming 5
EVGA GTX 1080 FTW GAMING ACX 3.0
Crucial Ballistix Sport 32GB (4 x 8GB) DDR4-2400
EVGA SuperNOVA 850 G2
Phanteks Enthoo EVOLV ATX Tempered Glass

EK-Supremacy EVO - Acetal+Nickel
EK-FC1080 GTX FTW - Acetal+Nickel
EK-XRES 140 Revo D5 PWM
Barrow Dabel-a-360 + Barrow Dabel-a-240 Rads
Barrow fittings
5x be quiet! Silent Wings 3 120mm PWM
Mayhems Pastel White
Mayhems Ultra Clear 16/10

More photos:


http://imgur.com/BuLm5

Build/mod process photos:


http://imgur.com/MzBTe


----------



## w-moffatt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *k0sTi*
> 
> Hey all, just wanted to share my build in the Evolv ATX, hope you like it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Intel Core i7-7700K (Delid + Thermal Grizzly Conductonaut)
> GIGABYTE AORUS GA-Z270X-Gaming 5
> EVGA GTX 1080 FTW GAMING ACX 3.0
> Crucial Ballistix Sport 32GB (4 x 8GB) DDR4-2400
> EVGA SuperNOVA 850 G2
> Phanteks Enthoo EVOLV ATX Tempered Glass
> 
> EK-Supremacy EVO - Acetal+Nickel
> EK-FC1080 GTX FTW - Acetal+Nickel
> EK-XRES 140 Revo D5 PWM
> Barrow Dabel-a-360 + Barrow Dabel-a-240 Rads
> Barrow fittings
> 5x be quiet! Silent Wings 3 120mm PWM
> Mayhems Pastel White
> Mayhems Ultra Clear 16/10
> 
> More photos:
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/BuLm5
> 
> Build/mod process photos:
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/MzBTe


very very clean work dude







Color scheme is sick!


----------



## nycgtr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *k0sTi*
> 
> Hey all, just wanted to share my build in the Evolv ATX, hope you like it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Intel Core i7-7700K (Delid + Thermal Grizzly Conductonaut)
> GIGABYTE AORUS GA-Z270X-Gaming 5
> EVGA GTX 1080 FTW GAMING ACX 3.0
> Crucial Ballistix Sport 32GB (4 x 8GB) DDR4-2400
> EVGA SuperNOVA 850 G2
> Phanteks Enthoo EVOLV ATX Tempered Glass
> 
> EK-Supremacy EVO - Acetal+Nickel
> EK-FC1080 GTX FTW - Acetal+Nickel
> EK-XRES 140 Revo D5 PWM
> Barrow Dabel-a-360 + Barrow Dabel-a-240 Rads
> Barrow fittings
> 5x be quiet! Silent Wings 3 120mm PWM
> Mayhems Pastel White
> Mayhems Ultra Clear 16/10


Nice







Are you using all barrow components? How is it? How do you find the quality of the parts aside from the fittings.


----------



## jimmyz

Got my evolve atx tg almost done, still waiting on my dual Vegas and getting the leather re done.
It's a R7 1800x with 32GB of 3200 G.Skill tridentZ dual Strix RX480s for now, and a 960 Evo nvme. Runs 4.0 with 1.417 24/7 pstates of course.


----------



## cr1

UPDATE: Phanteks Tech Support is shipping new LED Strips and has resolved issue to my satisfaction








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cr1*
> 
> Phanteks sent me some replacement hinges, but for wrong case, they don't fit-
> 
> Phanteks also sent #2 400mm LED Strips, but a few of the colors on the different strips don't match-
> 
> I'll update as A.S.A.P.-
> 
> Thanks!


----------



## k0sTi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nycgtr*
> 
> Nice
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Are you using all barrow components? How is it? How do you find the quality of the parts aside from the fittings.


I'm using just Barrow rads (besides those fittings). Their quality is very good. They even came pretty clean, tried flushing them several times and barely anything came out, was pleasantly surprised.


----------



## Dimensive

I want it!


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dimensive*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I want it!


Phanteks, why you increase front airflow but not top? Looks great though. The increased mobo to top rad clearance is nice.


----------



## nycgtr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> Phanteks, why you increase front airflow but not top? Looks great though. The increased mobo to top rad clearance is nice.


I don't think phanteks wants to acknowledge it's an issue.


----------



## Dimensive

It's like they're not listening to customer feedback. We all know it's an issue, if it wasn't people wouldn't be cutting out chunks of the top.


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nycgtr*
> 
> I don't think phanteks wants to acknowledge it's an issue.


I mean Dimitri literally said they should make the case shorter because the top is useless for airflow.

In fairness, these types of things take a long time to implement. This case has likely been in development for over a year. Any significant changes would take some time (&$).


----------



## pez

Does he mention release date in vid? I'll have to watch when I get home.


----------



## Dimensive

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pez*
> 
> Does he mention release date in vid? I'll have to watch when I get home.


Nope, no release date.


----------



## PureBlackFire

I agree they should have made that case alot shorter. too close to the ATX in height. lets just hope they listen to feedback for the revision of the ATX. they need a denser I/O, better top ventilation and all the other changes this mATX version has. and they need to make the bottom HDD cages slide or mount further back near the psu. removable top cover(s) like the P400S would be nice.


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PureBlackFire*
> 
> I agree they should have made that case alot shorter. too close to the ATX in height. lets just hope they listen to feedback for the revision of the ATX. they need a denser I/O, better top ventilation and all the other changes this mATX version has. and they need to make the bottom HDD cages slide or mount further back near the psu. removable top cover(s) like the P400S would be nice.


All of this. I/O should be easy since that is removable. Hell they could sell an upgrade kit to current Evolv owners.

I would add a top rad bracket like the Elite. Top ventilation should be modular like Fractal Design's Moduvent or like the Elite. I would also drop the quite frankly rarely used main chamber HDD mounts and make that area flat with some res/pump mounts. Or make the back side of that area for HDDs like Corsair's recent cases.


----------



## smithydan

Very narrow space for 360 rads though.


----------



## pez

It is tall to the point that I think I would almost prefer the ATX version. I'd love to see this change make its way to the ITX version as well.


----------



## smithydan

I think and so do many others that they should have been an all aluminum version.


----------



## Jyve

I just watched that video earlier today. I'm in the market for a change I cases too. Currently with a fractal design arc mini.

I have a custom loop including an ek 360 pe rad and a combo unit ek xres d5 140. I also have a fairly long gpu in the zotac amp extreme 980ti.

Pretty sure there won't be enough room between the end of the gpu and the 360 w/fans in the front.

Any ideas how one might set up a custom loop in the evolv matx tg? Where would you mount the pump and res? Seperate the pump and put it on the floor of the case maybe? Soft tubing BTW.


----------



## nycgtr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jyve*
> 
> I just watched that video earlier today. I'm in the market for a change I cases too. Currently with a fractal design arc mini.
> 
> I have a custom loop including an ek 360 pe rad and a combo unit ek xres d5 140. I also have a fairly long gpu in the zotac amp extreme 980ti.
> 
> Pretty sure there won't be enough room between the end of the gpu and the 360 w/fans in the front.
> 
> Any ideas how one might set up a custom loop in the evolv matx tg? Where would you mount the pump and res? Seperate the pump and put it on the floor of the case maybe? Soft tubing BTW.


Personally wouldn't unless you planned on doing some modding.


----------



## Jyve

Dimitri on several occasions mentioned custom water cooling in the video. And every time I'd think how? It has the height and radiator support but the depth of the case certainly limits your options when it comes to pump and more specifically reservoir.

I suppose you could put the pump in the floor and a small res towards the top, above the gpu. Personally I don't want to lose my 140 res though.

Also putting a small res towards the top would certainly make filling and bleeding a major pain. Draining might be ok with the valve facing out the other panel.

I do really dig that 'frosted' side panel. No more worrying about cable management on that side like some of the others (I'm looking at you corsair!)


----------



## OrangeRaptor

for my next build should I reuse my enthoo pro m or get a new case. I was wanting to get the enthoo luxe.


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jyve*
> 
> Dimitri on several occasions mentioned custom water cooling in the video. And every time I'd think how? It has the height and radiator support but the depth of the case certainly limits your options when it comes to pump and more specifically reservoir.
> 
> I suppose you could put the pump in the floor and a small res towards the top, above the gpu. Personally I don't want to lose my 140 res though.
> 
> Also putting a small res towards the top would certainly make filling and bleeding a major pain. Draining might be ok with the valve facing out the other panel.
> 
> I do really dig that 'frosted' side panel. No more worrying about cable management on that side like some of the others (I'm looking at you corsair!)


This is why IMO, a full custom loop should be in a mid tower or larger. No way you could fit or cool an SLI config in that case. But given the size of the case... you might as well go ATX mid tower or ITX (Ncase or Nano S)


----------



## nycgtr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> This is why IMO, a full custom loop should be in a mid tower or larger. No way you could fit or cool an SLI config in that case. But given the size of the case... you might as well go ATX mid tower or ITX (Ncase or Nano S)


I think dimitiri refers to water cooling more as an aio lol. You could totally water cool in that evolv matx just don't know why you would want to.


----------



## Detuned

Picked up an Enthoo Pro M TG, and noticed it comes with those new fans I've seen some posters mention (140MP blades / 140SP motor).

How are these new no-name fans compared to the previously included PH-F140SPs? I've got the two that came with the case running as intakes, and a spare PH-F140SP I had as my exhaust. Would I be better of grabbing two more tried and true PH-F140SPs for intakes (my FAV case fans!), or is this setup with these new fans good enough/comparable in performance?


----------



## pez

I've got 140SPs and 120MPs and I prefer the noise profile of the MPs over the SPs bar none. I can't say the motor noise is what I hear in either of the cases the fans are in, but rather the 'airflow' noise. And for that, even at full speed and only 120mm vs 140mm, I love the MP more.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pez*
> 
> I've got 140SPs and 120MPs and I prefer the noise profile of the MPs over the SPs bar none. I can't say the motor noise is what I hear in either of the cases the fans are in, but rather the 'airflow' noise. And for that, even at full speed and only 120mm vs 140mm, I love the MP more.


I value your opinion, but I don't like to compare 120mm fans to 140mm .. and definitely not when they are in different cases.








I'm using both SP and MP fans and find both to be good. I'm trying to build a new fan test system for better data collection. Probably similar to what THermalbench uses.


----------



## pez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> I value your opinion, but I don't like to compare 120mm fans to 140mm .. and definitely not when they are in different cases.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm using both SP and MP fans and find both to be good. I'm trying to build a new fan test system for better data collection. Probably similar to what THermalbench uses.


Yeah, I agree the uses are different. The 120MPs are in a more restricted position than my 140SP in exhaust is, but even in a more open situation, I expected the 140 to be a bit quieter or have a better noise profile.

Let me be clear: both are great and have the most ideal noise profiles I've heard other than maybe a Noctua fan. I think I would definitely invest in the 140MPs down the line just to test out if I like the noise better.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pez*
> 
> Yeah, I agree the uses are different. The 120MPs are in a more restricted position than my 140SP in exhaust is, but even in a more open situation, I expected the 140 to be a bit quieter or have a better noise profile.
> 
> Let me be clear: both are great and have the most ideal noise profiles I've heard other than maybe a Noctua fan. I think I would definitely invest in the 140MPs down the line just to test out if I like the noise better.


I agree, both are great depending on applications. I used both in 140mm as case fans and found littler to no differences. If I was buying new I would probably get MPs because of PWM control, but if I had variable voltage fan control I would probalby use SPs.


----------



## pez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> I agree, both are great depending on applications. I used both in 140mm as case fans and found littler to no differences. If I was buying new I would probably get MPs because of PWM control, but if I had variable voltage fan control I would probalby use SPs.


Ah, I did forget about PWM. That was the main reason I went with MPs in my current build.


----------



## kevindd992002

Phanteks is a bugger! I just got this in a reply email from them:

"There was a plan to change the Evolv ATX to use hinges for the glass panels. Now the plans have been cancelled."

They had me really expecting.


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Phanteks is a bugger! I just got this in a reply email from them:
> 
> "There was a plan to change the Evolv ATX to use hinges for the glass panels. Now the plans have been cancelled."
> 
> They had me really expecting.


IMO, they should do what Cooler Master did with the MasteMaker or In Win with the 303.


----------



## PureBlackFire

maybe they decided to just release a new case instead.


----------



## Jyve

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nycgtr*
> 
> I think dimitiri refers to water cooling more as an aio lol. You could totally water cool in that evolv matx just don't know why you would want to.


Why wouldn't you want to? It would be a challenge but would be worth it I think.

It's a gorgeous case and a water cooled rig in it would look sweet.

My problem is I'm running a 360 rad which makes mounting my pump and rad a pain.

I'll do some more researching using the previous evolv matx as reference. I'm currently rolling with a fractal design arc mini which is pretty close in size and that thing rocks for custom loops.


----------



## Testing12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PureBlackFire*
> 
> maybe they decided to just release a new case instead.


That would be my guess.


----------



## kevindd992002

What is the usual interval before they release a new case? Would it be anytime soon?


----------



## xarot

Is there anyone making a stand with wheels for the Phanteks Enthoo Primo and ships in the EU? I am literally breaking my back everytime I have to lift the case out of where it's installed. Unfortunately I don't have the tools, place or time to make my own but could pay for one.


----------



## levibaker88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PureBlackFire*
> 
> better top ventilation.


The top cover doesn't impede ventilation in the slightest, like none (at least with my configuration, refer sig). I spent a number of hours overclocking for pre/post comparison on my 4790k delid and with the top panel on or off over a period of an hour (heat soak was completely set in by about 30mins) stress testing in AIDA64 and the CPU reached the same maximum package temperature with or without the cover on. The front panel however is a restriction.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> I/O should be easy since that is removable. Hell they could sell an upgrade kit to current Evolv owners.


This would be a ridiculously awesome idea, easy upgrade to give Evolv owners USB 3.1 front panel connectivity, could even do a VR front I/O for those that use it.


----------



## harrisonk

Could someone with an Evolv (ATX or mATX) confirm for me how large the top LED power button is on the width, in mm please? I have a set of bulgin style switches i'd like to install, but I'm concerned that the switch on the new Evolv mATX TG case is wider than what my 22mm switch would cover. I'm hoping to not to have to build a bezel to cover the gap.

Thanks in advance!


----------



## nycgtr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *levibaker88*
> 
> The top cover doesn't impede ventilation in the slightest, like none (at least with my configuration, refer sig). I spent a number of hours overclocking for pre/post comparison on my 4790k delid and with the top panel on or off over a period of an hour (heat soak was completely set in by about 30mins) stress testing in AIDA64 and the CPU reached the same maximum package temperature with or without the cover on. The front panel however is a restriction.
> This would be a ridiculously awesome idea, easy upgrade to give Evolv owners USB 3.1 front panel connectivity, could even do a VR front I/O for those that use it.


The front panel extended by 3mm is the same as no cover on. I stressed it with and without a cover it's the same. As for the top? Really dude? You are the first one that has said that. I personally saw a dramatic drop after i took the top off and then after i cut it.


----------



## Roxycon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *harrisonk*
> 
> Could someone with an Evolv (ATX or mATX) confirm for me how large the top LED power button is on the width, in mm please? I have a set of bulgin style switches i'd like to install, but I'm concerned that the switch on the new Evolv mATX TG case is wider than what my 22mm switch would cover. I'm hoping to not to have to build a bezel to cover the gap.
> 
> Thanks in advance!


evolv mATX and evolv mATX TG has two different styled power switches.

on another note; phanteks have confirmed on Facebook that the evolv mATX TG does support a slim 360 rad with a 240 rad up top, looks like i finally have a mATX case upgrade


----------



## nycgtr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roxycon*
> 
> evolv mATX and evolv mATX TG has two different styled power switches.
> 
> on another note; phanteks have confirmed on Facebook that the evolv mATX TG does support a slim 360 rad with a 240 rad up top, looks like i finally have a mATX case upgrade


As an evolv owner who went thru hell with rads in the evolv. I really don't see why for such a MINIMAL size difference you would choose the matx to go watercooling in. This atx version is already average at temperature performance watercooled.


----------



## harrisonk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roxycon*
> 
> evolv mATX and evolv mATX TG has two different styled power switches.


Yes, of course... the original Evolv mATX had the side power button. I suppose this question only applies to those with the Evolv ATX and Evolv ATX TG cases then. Regardless, the width of the _top_ mounted power button is what I need.

Thanks for the clarification though.


----------



## Roxycon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nycgtr*
> 
> As an evolv owner who went thru hell with rads in the evolv. I really don't see why for such a MINIMAL size difference you would choose the matx to go watercooling in. This atx version is already average at temperature performance watercooled.


Because some people have time and interest (and $) for modifications to make it work and look half decent









The ATX layout, and cases, are also way to big and have a bad space efficiency, large unused space is not pleasing to my eyes at least

Excuse the dust, postponing my loop maintenance


----------



## nycgtr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roxycon*
> 
> Because some people have time and interest (and $) for modifications to make it work and look half decent
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The ATX layout, and cases, are also way to big and have a bad space efficiency, large unused space is not pleasing to my eyes at least
> 
> Excuse the dust, postponing my loop maintenance


This is my evolv btw. So before you go on about time, interest and money blah blah.





Also my top is modded and my temps are more than fine. With that said, it cant be compared to a larger case. With that said the matx evolv and the atx size difference to me is minimal, and the decrease is not worth trying to make a tight fit more tight imo.


----------



## PureBlackFire

nobody should have to mod a case for basic airflow and fitment. espacially when it isn't even the first iteration and the company has gotten years of feedback on certain issues.


----------



## OrangeRaptor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PureBlackFire*
> 
> nobody should have to mod a case for basic airflow and fitment. espacially when it isn't even the first iteration and the company has gotten years of feedback on certain issues.


I would have to agree. I think it's kind of funny that the Pro M has better airflow even though it's cheaper but has the same chassis.


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PureBlackFire*
> 
> maybe they decided to just release a new case instead.


Given the kind out of nowhere sales on Phanteks cases on Newegg... it would seem so. IDK if they are clearing stock, but they are thinning it.


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OrangeRaptor*
> 
> I would have to agree. I think it's kind of funny that the Pro M has better airflow even though it's cheaper but has the same chassis.


well the top and front panels are open on the Pro M so it's easy.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> Given the kind out of nowhere sales on Phanteks cases on Newegg... it would seem so. IDK if they are clearing stock, but they are thinning it.


If they were to release a new case, do you have an idea approximately when will this happen? Is it smart to buy an Evolv ATX now and buy a top modded panel from Joe of modmymods.com?


----------



## Jyve

Gonna have to agree on the wasted space argument. I run an matx rig and even though it'd fit fine in an evolv, I have no mechanical hdds, just a couple ssd's. Certainly going to make for an empty looking chassis. Also only running a single 360mm rad making it even more spacious.

The matx version, if just a bit deeper would've been perfect for me. At its current state I could probably work it out with the pump and res separated.

Just disappointed as I was sort of looking forward to a tg version of the matx and at the end of the day probably won't work for my particular setup.

I've not ruled out the full fat atx just yet though.


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> If they were to release a new case, do you have an idea approximately when will this happen? Is it smart to buy an Evolv ATX now and buy a top modded panel from Joe of modmymods.com?


Let me consult my crystal ball and get back to you...


----------



## levibaker88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nycgtr*
> 
> The front panel extended by 3mm is the same as no cover on. I stressed it with and without a cover it's the same. As for the top? Really dude? You are the first one that has said that. I personally saw a dramatic drop after i took the top off and then after i cut it.


The extended front panel is a good improvement, as I said I noticed a temp decrease removing the front panel (on the ATX case), but that may be partially related to the weak static pressure Phantek fans I have in there. Top cover, yeah no difference on or off, multiple hours stress testing done to confirm as I was curious myself. It really must be down to system configuration.


----------



## Dimensive

When it comes to new cases, I suppose we'll have to wait and see if they reveal anything at Computex next month.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *pez*
> 
> Yeah, I agree the uses are different. The 120MPs are in a more restricted position than my 140SP in exhaust is, but even in a more open situation, I expected the 140 to be a bit quieter or have a better noise profile.
> 
> Let me be clear: both are great and have the most ideal noise profiles I've heard other than maybe a Noctua fan. I think I would definitely invest in the 140MPs down the line just to test out if I like the noise better.
> 
> 
> 
> I agree, both are great depending on applications. I used both in 140mm as case fans and found littler to no differences. If I was buying new I would probably get MPs because of PWM control, but if I had variable voltage fan control I would probalby use SPs.
Click to expand...

2 words for you : Gently Typhoon

now if nidec ever made a 140mm GT .... i would use them....


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PureBlackFire*
> 
> nobody should have to mod a case for basic airflow and fitment. espacially when it isn't even the first iteration and the company has gotten years of feedback on certain issues.


Nobody 'has to mod' their Evolv cases. The fact is very few of the Evolv case owners 'have modded' their cases to get 'basic airflow'. Most of us have built within the design perimeters of the Evolv and had no real issues with airflow.

As for your 'first iteration' and 'years of feedback' .. every case has it's own group of potential problems .. solving one often creates another. Heck, even an open bench test station can end up with mods.









Cases and custom built systems are like cars and custom builders .. there are always things that can be done a better way depending on who you talk to. Even the most sophisticated race cars are evolving from season to season.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Nobody 'has to mod' their Evolv cases. The fact is very few of the Evolv case owners 'have modded' their cases to get 'basic airflow'. Most of us have built within the design perimeters of the Evolv and had no real issues with airflow.
> 
> As for your 'first iteration' and 'years of feedback' .. every case has it's own group of potential problems .. solving one often creates another. Heck, even an open bench test station can end up with mods.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cases and custom built systems are like cars and custom builders .. there are always things that can be done a better way depending on who you talk to. Even the most sophisticated race cars are evolving from season to season.


Yes, no one "needs to" modify their cases but if one notices a significant drop in temps when he removes the top panel compared to when it is setup following your recommendations and given that he has proper airflow and all that, won't it be valid to co clude that there is really something wrong with the top ventilation?


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> 2 words for you : Gently Typhoon
> 
> now if nidec ever made a 140mm GT .... i would use them....


The Gentle Typhoon are definitely very good .. and were the very best of the very best until a few years ago. But in the last few years we have many new fans competing with them, and some are better than GTs. The data shows the PH-F120MP to be 30-50% better at similar rpms. The lower rpm of MP's is it's only limiting factor .. and I assume it's blade design loose it's performance edge at higher rpm.

Here is some Cooling Techniques testing data I organized to show GTs compared to PH-F120MP. Hope it shows what I'm trying to explain .. that the MP is better .. and their blade design is better the lower their speed is .. even at 1600rpm they are move more air with higher pressure differential at lower noise levels than GTs.


----------



## hurricane28

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> The Gentle Typhoon are definitely very good .. and were the very best of the very best until a few years ago. But in the last few years we have many new fans competing with them, and some are better than GTs. The data shows the PH-F120MP to be 30-50% better at similar rpms. The lower rpm of MP's is it's only limiting factor .. and I assume it's blade design loose it's performance edge at higher rpm.
> 
> Here is some Cooling Techniques testing data I organized to show GTs compared to PH-F120MP. Hope it shows what I'm trying to explain .. that the MP is better .. and their blade design is better the lower their speed is .. even at 1600rpm they are move more air with higher pressure differential at lower noise levels than GTs.






Nice data sheet but did you test them in real world performance like on a heat sink or radiator?


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Yes, no one "needs to" modify their cases but if one notices a significant drop in temps when he removes the top panel compared to when it is setup following your recommendations and given that he has proper airflow and all that, won't it be valid to co clude that there is really something wrong with the top ventilation?


This 'significant drop in temps' is a direct result of people using components in a case that is not designed for their use .. or user is pushing the limits of design .. which is what modding is all about.







Be push our equipment to the limits and then modify it to get even more. The Evolv design is to to not have conventional venting holes in front, top and sides .. and I have not yet seen a vent modification to the Evolv that did not change the this no vent design concept.

What I am seeing is more and more people wanting 'custom case' concepts and performance in production cases. Again I'll automotive design and production as a comparison. While many people buy and use new cars as they come off the showroom floor, many are modifying them before they get off the dealer's lot.







We do the same thing with our computers.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> 
> Nice data sheet but did you test them in real world performance like on a heat sink or radiator?


I posted the data so you could see what the actual difference is .. and yes, I have used / tested them on air coolers, radiators and case fans. The bottom line is regardless of how much better something is today, in a year or three there will be others just as good or better. It's call evolution.









GTs were king for many many years .. and they are still very good. But they are no longer king.


----------



## nycgtr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> This 'significant drop in temps' is a direct result of people using components in a case that is not designed for their use .. or user is pushing the limits of design .. which is what modding is all about.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Be push our equipment to the limits and then modify it to get even more. The Evolv design is to to not have conventional venting holes in front, top and sides .. and I have not yet seen a vent modification to the Evolv that did not change the this no vent design concept.
> 
> What I am seeing is more and more people wanting 'custom case' concepts and performance in production cases. Again I'll automotive design and production as a comparison. While many people buy and use new cars as they come off the showroom floor, many are modifying them before they get off the dealer's lot.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We do the same thing with our computers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I posted the data so you could see what the actual difference is .. and yes, I have used / tested them on air coolers, radiators and case fans. The bottom line is regardless of how much better something is today, in a year or three there will be others just as good or better. It's call evolution.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> GTs were king for many many years .. and they are still very good. But they are no longer king.


Doyll I followed the thread for this case on multiple forums. I used optimal rads, optimal fans and sealed up, extended, rested panels etc. All of that was done to prior to me modding the lid. I don't watercool to see 61c on my gpus using 2 360s. When I can feel thru the glass the heat build up on my top radiator i know something needs to be addressed. Now some people might feel content with 2 OCed cards in sli hitting 61c underload, I am not. With the modification to the lids my sli gpu temps dropped by up to 9c depending on ambient. I also can run my fans a little slower and my overall system temps have went down a few minor deg. This to me is a huge improvement and worth the modification.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nycgtr*
> 
> Doyll I followed the thread for this case on multiple forums. I used optimal rads, optimal fans and sealed up, extended, rested panels etc. All of that was done to prior to me modding the lid. I don't watercool to see 61c on my gpus using 2 360s. When I can feel thru the glass the heat build up on my top radiator i know something needs to be addressed. Now some people might feel content with 2 OCed cards in sli hitting 61c underload, I am not. With the modification to the lids my sli gpu temps dropped by up to 9c depending on ambient. I also can run my fans a little slower and my overall system temps have went down a few minor deg. This to me is a huge improvement and worth the modification.


Key word is 'modifications'. I think you are expecting more from the case than it is designed to give, so you needed to modify it to give you the airflow you feel you need. Most people do not think a GPU at 61c is extreme, but you do. I can understand that. I keep my own below 70c and CPU even cooler .. and that is in air cooled systems.

You want more than stock case supplies. Nothing wrong with that. But it is not because there is a fault in the case. The case was intentionally designed without massive venting in the front, top or sides. The front flow air very well. the top does not flow as well. You chose to push the limits and need more airflow / venting than stock gives, so you modify the case to do what you want.

Being able to improve performance and case airflow with modifications is why many of us are on these forums .. we 'modify by overclocking .. end up with cooling problems, and 'modify' with bigger coolers, more venting, more airflow. But that does not mean the case is not well designed and great looking.

We both know there are literally 100's of these cases out there working very well without the stock top being modified.

But I raised mine for better airflow with 280 top radiator. It lowered temps about 4c with lower fan noise levels.

I guess the difference is I accept the fact I want more then stock performance .. and also accept the fact that Evolv ATX is a great case even with no modifications .. even if I do modify it some anyway. I just don't think Phanteks needs to change the design by adding top vents in the Evolv cases. I like the look of the solid top.

You have every right to want and have a vented top. I just don't think you should be acting like it's a defective design by Phanteks. After all your system did keep 2x SLI GPUs at 61c or lower .. and that is not bad in my book.


----------



## paskowitz

Personally, I think 99% of the Evolv's problems could be solved by making the total size of the case bigger (keeping the same aestetic design). Something between a mid and full tower.

I will say though, there are some really odd design choices on this case. I constantly go... "Phanteks could have easily added 1cm more clearance or length or whatever and XYZ problem would not exist."

I think moving the dual psu shroud HDD cages towards the center is an obvious one. Open rails for 120 AND 140 fans on the front, like on the top bracket is another. Using the far less restrictive and far more effective front dust filter on the 10 slats on the top cover is another. Using a more space efficient screw in top fan bracket (like the Elite) vs a sliding one.

I love this case. To my money, it is still the best ATX case <$200. That said, I do think Phanteks made some clear and relatively easy to fix mistakes.


----------



## doyll

So it's the best in it's class but has faults.
Is there any case that is best in it's class and has no faults?








I do agree there are several little changes that would make it better, but I have yet to see a case that did not have a lot of things I would have done different.


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> So it's the best in it's class but has faults.
> Is there any case that is best in it's class and has no faults?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I do agree there are several little changes that would make it better, but I have yet to see a case that did not have a lot of things I would have done different.


For me it is, but there are a lot of people who value function over form. I don't expect Phanteks to get it right the first or even second time... but for v3 if some of these issues are not addressed, I'll be strongly considering other options.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> 2 words for you : Gently Typhoon
> 
> now if nidec ever made a 140mm GT .... i would use them....
> 
> 
> 
> The Gentle Typhoon are definitely very good .. and were the very best of the very best until a few years ago. But in the last few years we have many new fans competing with them, and some are better than GTs. The data shows the PH-F120MP to be 30-50% better at similar rpms. The lower rpm of MP's is it's only limiting factor .. and I assume it's blade design loose it's performance edge at higher rpm.
> 
> Here is some Cooling Techniques testing data I organized to show GTs compared to PH-F120MP. Hope it shows what I'm trying to explain .. that the MP is better .. and their blade design is better the lower their speed is .. even at 1600rpm they are move more air with higher pressure differential at lower noise levels than GTs.
Click to expand...

first and foremost i am frankly surprised to have to have this conversation with you of all people

besides GTs being time proven with *type* of sound vs other fans. but the part that surprises me-- is the fact you are using a excessively poor testing procedure
box specs mean nothing, max pressure, static pressure, cfm- useless......
lastly with a PQ chart which phanteks along with most other manufactures refuse to supply, with my experience in what i do i would be willing to bet with pretty good accuracy they would lose to the GTs with their inferior design,

now if you do have a pq chart feel free to prove me wrong. or ask phantek, as they seem fairly open to talking, maybe they will provide a pq chart .... but i wont hold my breath


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> first and foremost i am frankly surprised to have to have this conversation with you of all people
> 
> besides GTs being time proven with *type* of sound vs other fans. but the part that surprises me-- is the fact you are using a excessively poor testing procedure
> box specs mean nothing, max pressure, static pressure, cfm- useless......
> lastly with a PQ chart which phanteks along with most other manufactures refuse to supply, with my experience in what i do i would be willing to bet with pretty good accuracy they would lose to the GTs with their inferior design,
> 
> now if you do have a pq chart feel free to prove me wrong. or ask phantek, as they seem fairly open to talking, maybe they will provide a pq chart .... but i wont hold my breath


"First and formost I am franly surprised" by your lack of understanding of what I am presenting and saying. Sound profiles are extremely hard to record and rarely sound like actual fans when played back .. and what 'box specs' are you referring to







.. because I did not post any box specs!









What is 'excessively poor' seems to be your understanding of data rather than what I posted.









You of all people should understand independent testing data and how to plot pressure differential and airflow at different fan speeds.
Martin did very good testing, but that was years ago so we have no comparison testing of newer fans.
All joking aside, if you want more current data look at Thermalbench testing. That's all done with radiators showing air speed and noise levels at different RPM .. and verifies what I said about GTs no longer being best of the best, but middle of the pack.


Or CoolingTechnique graphs using data from charts I posted.












If you want more graphs, got to http://www.coolingtechnique.com and search for fan you want data on.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> first and foremost i am frankly surprised to have to have this conversation with you of all people
> 
> besides GTs being time proven with *type* of sound vs other fans. but the part that surprises me-- is the fact you are using a excessively poor testing procedure
> box specs mean nothing, max pressure, static pressure, cfm- useless......
> lastly with a PQ chart which phanteks along with most other manufactures refuse to supply, with my experience in what i do i would be willing to bet with pretty good accuracy they would lose to the GTs with their inferior design,
> 
> now if you do have a pq chart feel free to prove me wrong. or ask phantek, as they seem fairly open to talking, maybe they will provide a pq chart .... but i wont hold my breath
> 
> 
> 
> "First and formost I am franly surprised" by your lack of understanding of what I am presenting and saying. Sound profiles are extremely hard to record and rarely sound like actual fans when played back .. and what 'box specs' are you referring to
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .. because I did not post any box specs!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What is 'excessively poor' seems to be your understanding of data rather than what I posted.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You of all people should understand independent testing data and how to plot pressure differential and airflow at different fan speeds.
> Martin did very good testing, but that was years ago so we have no comparison testing of newer fans.
> All joking aside, if you want more current data look at Thermalbench testing. That's all done with radiators showing air speed and noise levels at different RPM .. and verifies what I said about GTs no longer being best of the best, but middle of the pack.
> 
> 
> Or CoolingTechnique graphs using data from charts I posted.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you want more graphs, got to http://www.coolingtechnique.com and search for fan you want data on.
Click to expand...

First, " box specs" =this fan had this much cfm at this rpm. You provided allot. Now if you read and understood the article that i linked. You would see what I mean ( ironically pq charts are only valid at rpm tested ) that with varying back pressure the cfm changes as does the pressure from the fan. Just like a pump curve.... go, figure.

Second the graph of cfm through a rad. Again cfm is HALF the picture you can have high cfm and low pressure, which for rads, filters and making positive pressure in pc cases is a BAD thing.

But Lastly while not an argument but frankly food for thought, the sound profile while being subjective, again gentle typhoons sound better to most people who have heard them. Why I don't know... I dont deal with that. One is an industrial fan. Used in industrial things - like office equip. Other is a pc case fan..... which do you think had had more r and d ... Why do you think gts are still considered best for so long... great thing about fans, it's physics based, not tech based, so things don't really change ( same with motors ) - they can - but it is rare

Edit - You edited your statement my response to the new one coming up

Second graph - not a pq chart looks to be left side low rpm to right side high rpm (meaning speed controlled fan) which again does not take into account back pressure (restriction) like a pq chart and again is useless unless you use the fan in the exact scenario as tested, most of these tests are done free standing. With no back pressure (again restriction) so the moment you put them on a rad, heatsink, filter, mesh or combination there of the results are invalid, or the moment you put them on a different one....

Third graph

Thanks? You proved that in real life useage the gt is best not including sound into the equation? ..... :headscratch:


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> First, " box specs" =this fan had this much cfm at this rpm. You provided allot. Now if you read and understood the article that i linked. You would see what I mean ( ironically pq charts are only valid at rpm tested ) that with varying back pressure the cfm changes as does the pressure from the fan. Just like a pump curve.... go, figure.
> 
> Second the graph of cfm through a rad. Again cfm is HALF the picture you can have high cfm and low pressure, which for rads, filters and making positive pressure in pc cases is a BAD thing.
> 
> But Lastly while not an argument but frankly food for thought, the sound profile while being subjective, again gentle typhoons sound better to most people who have heard them. Why I don't know... I dont deal with that. One is an industrial fan. Used in industrial things - like office equip. Other is a pc case fan..... which do you think had had more r and d ... Why do you think gts are still considered best for so long... great thing about fans, it's physics based, not tech based, so things don't really change ( same with motors ) - they can - but it is rare
> 
> Edit - You edited your statement my response to the new one coming up
> 
> Second graph - not a pq chart looks to be left side low rpm to right side high rpm (meaning speed controlled fan) which again does not take into account back pressure (restriction) like a pq chart and again is useless unless you use the fan in the exact scenario as tested, most of these tests are done free standing. With no back pressure (again restriction) so the moment you put them on a rad, heatsink, filter, mesh or combination there of the results are invalid, or the moment you put them on a different one....
> 
> Third graph
> 
> Thanks? You proved that in real life useage the gt is best not including sound into the equation? ..... :headscratch:


You seem more bent on arguing than discussing the data / facts and how to understand them. I will try and discuss this one more time.

No, "Box Specs" are what manufacturers put on retail box, not what independent testing gives. Box specs are almost always only full speed no resistance for CFM and full speed total resistance for static pressure.

Making positive pressure in a case is no relevant to this discussion.

Few testing / reviews give complete and accurate P/Q curves simply because the equipment needed to do so is extremely expensive and inaccessible. Even Martin did many tests using radiators as resistance source.

Using a radiator as resistance gives us a reasonable and low cost way of showing how the fan performs with resistance and air speed coming out of radiator gives us a reliable measurement for comparing fan performance .. air speed times cross-sectional area equals CFM, Thermalbench graph shows a fixed resistance to air speed of different fans at different speeds. CoolingTechnique graphs are fixed speed .. but the data I supplied gives rpm range. Your preferred P/Q only gives us pressure and flow at maximum speed. Both help, but neither gives us as much information as we want.

I agree, sound profile is very important. The problem is reproducing it in a way we can listen to it on our computer sound system. Few of us have hi-fi sound systems on our computers and fewer have recording equipment / recording studio equipment needed to record accurate fan sound profiles.

Both graphs from CoolingTechnique are P/Q .. just presented differently. First is max to max, second is max to minimum.

Third graph doesn't have GT on it.


----------



## ciarlatano

I can't really figure out what you two are arguing about, @doyll and @Mega Man.....but it seems to be a fan conversation rather than a Phanteks case conversation. And just my two cents....I tried the GTs, eLoops, Noctua iPPC (which really don't belong in this company with all of the low rpm noise they have) and a few others in my Primo, Luxe and Evolv ATX on the rads. I went back to the F120MP all three times - most pleasing sound profile to *my* ears, and no performance sacrifice at all.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> Personally, I think 99% of the Evolv's problems could be solved by making the total size of the case bigger (keeping the same aestetic design). Something between a mid and full tower.
> 
> I will say though, there are some really odd design choices on this case. I constantly go... "Phanteks could have easily added 1cm more clearance or length or whatever and XYZ problem would not exist."
> 
> I think moving the dual psu shroud HDD cages towards the center is an obvious one. Open rails for 120 AND 140 fans on the front, like on the top bracket is another. Using the far less restrictive and far more effective front dust filter on the 10 slats on the top cover is another. Using a more space efficient screw in top fan bracket (like the Elite) vs a sliding one.
> 
> I love this case. To my money, it is still the best ATX case <$200. That said, I do think Phanteks made some clear and relatively easy to fix mistakes.


I wholly agree with you. A little taller on the chassis, and a little taller on the top itself (or an opening) solves a world of issues with the case for many builders.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> I can't really figure out what you two are arguing about, @doyll and @Mega Man.....but it seems to be a fan conversation rather than a Phanteks case conversation. And just my two cents....I tried the GTs, eLoops, Noctua iPPC (which really don't belong in this company with all of the low rpm noise they have) and a few others in my Primo, Luxe and Evolv ATX on the rads. I went back to the F120MP all three times - most pleasing sound profile to *my* ears, and no performance sacrifice at all.


Long story short, Mega Man posted in #17583 "T2 words for you : Gently Typhoon"
I replied that GTs were best until a few years ago, but now there are many equal to or better then GTs .. and posted test data of F120MP compared to Gentle Typhoon AP-13, 14 & 29 .. which he called 'box specs' ..








Which they clearly are not,
So I tried posting P/Q graphs .. and he doesn't agree they are both P/Q graphs in .. http://www.sherv.net/

I came to the same conclusion you did .. the F120MP is better than GT of same speed range .. the speed range I normally want.


----------



## hurricane28

What about the Noctua NF-F12 industrial fans? I have 3 of the 3K rpm ones and they perform very very well at lower voltages. I rarely have to ramp them up even at gaming or working in Sony Vegas or Premiere Pro.

360 mm is a bit overkil for CPU only i guess but i like overkill just in case i ever need it









I have the a hybrid fan to the PH-F140MP and the PH-F140SP and the build quality is rather good but the performance is rather poor. Maybe the 120 mm versions perform significantly better but i am not impressed at all with my Phanteks fans other than build quality.


----------



## mrpurplehawk

Has anyone seen any hard line builds in a Pro M TG? Been having trouble finding pictures around and looking for inspiration for my second PC


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> What about the Noctua NF-F12 industrial fans? I have 3 of the 3K rpm ones and they perform very very well at lower voltages. I rarely have to ramp them up even at gaming or working in Sony Vegas or Premiere Pro.
> 
> 360 mm is a bit overkil for CPU only i guess but i like overkill just in case i ever need it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have the a hybrid fan to the PH-F140MP and the PH-F140SP and the build quality is rather good but the performance is rather poor. Maybe the 120 mm versions perform significantly better but i am not impressed at all with my Phanteks fans other than build quality.


Some have had problems with clicking and buzzing in the industrials.
Do you means the 'No Name/No Model #' new case fans? I have not seen or used any of these so no knowledge. The real MPs, both 120 and 140 I find to be good. I have tried them on radiators as well as using the PH-F140HP_II on cooler and like them.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mrpurplehawk*
> 
> Has anyone seen any hard line builds in a Pro M TG? Been having trouble finding pictures around and looking for inspiration for my second PC


None at all


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Some have had problems with clicking and buzzing in the industrials.
> Do you means the 'No Name/No Model #' new case fans? I have not seen or used any of these so no knowledge. The real MPs, both 120 and 140 I find to be good. I have tried them on radiators as well as using the PH-F140HP_II on cooler and like them.


Okay, i had that too like a month ago. They suddenly stopped the buzzing at an specific rpm. I have 3 of them now and spin at 1380 rpm which is the minimum i can run them at with my fan controller and i can barely hear them. Temps rarely hit 50 c under the most things i do like, gaming, rendering etc. only when i run IBT AVX or any other stress test program i have to ramp them up a little but that is to be expected.

I also had 2 of those 3 K rpm fans running on my Corsair H100i and they performed significantly better as expected because Corsair fans are garbage..

The phanteks fans are indeed the no name fans lol.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> What about the Noctua NF-F12 industrial fans? I have 3 of the 3K rpm ones and they perform very very well at lower voltages. I rarely have to ramp them up even at gaming or working in Sony Vegas or Premiere Pro.
> 
> 360 mm is a bit overkil for CPU only i guess but i like overkill just in case i ever need it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have the a hybrid fan to the PH-F140MP and the PH-F140SP and the build quality is rather good but the performance is rather poor. Maybe the 120 mm versions perform significantly better but i am not impressed at all with my Phanteks fans other than build quality.


Worst sounding fans I ever voluntarily put in my case. By far. By really, really far. Mind you, I have had to review fans that sound worse, but when the iPPC came out I was all over grabbing them thinking that they would essentially be a high speed version of their existing. Boy was I wrong..... I couldn't stand them for more than a week. Had to rip apart a large loop in a Primo to get them out. Noise aside, I wouldn't say they perform "very, very well" on anything but extremely low density rads. Actually, even then I would call it "ok....just kind of average....but with more mechanical noise". They are labeled as industrial for good reason.

The F120MP is quite a bit better than the 140mm relatively speaking. I actually always preferred the F140SP to the MP for case fan use. Even at that, you would be hard pressed to find a better 140mm case fan for many applications than the F140MP or SP. They are quiet, have low start up speeds, great sound profiles and move a good amount of air.


----------



## kevindd992002

Which is a more "watercooling-friendly" case, the Enthoo Luxe or the Evolv ATX? I can see that the Luxe has a drive cage in the front that I'm not sure if it's removable as that would really be an obstruction.


----------



## doyll

What ciarlatano said about Phanteks fans.









I have not used the IPPC but have heard others say the same thing he says. In Canada people seem to like the 24v 3000rpm IPPC fans running on 12v. But than they don't have as many different brands available up there.


----------



## xarot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xarot*
> 
> Is there anyone making a stand with wheels for the Phanteks Enthoo Primo and ships in the EU? I am literally breaking my back everytime I have to lift the case out of where it's installed. Unfortunately I don't have the tools, place or time to make my own but could pay for one.


Nobody?


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Which is a more "watercooling-friendly" case, the Enthoo Luxe or the Evolv ATX? I can see that the Luxe has a drive cage in the front that I'm not sure if it's removable as that would really be an obstruction.


It depends on what you are putting in. They are different, not really better or worse in terms of being liquid friendly.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xarot*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *xarot*
> 
> Is there anyone making a stand with wheels for the Phanteks Enthoo Primo and ships in the EU? I am literally breaking my back everytime I have to lift the case out of where it's installed. Unfortunately I don't have the tools, place or time to make my own but could pay for one.
> 
> 
> 
> Nobody?
Click to expand...

iirc ( meaning I think it is not eol )case labs has one for the sth10 that should work. But they are not cheap.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> It depends on what you are putting in. They are different, not really better or worse in terms of being liquid friendly.


But can you stuff "more" WC components in the Luxe considering that the drive cage is not removable? If not, in what aspect does the Luxe shine over the Evolv aside from ventilation?


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> It depends on what you are putting in. They are different, not really better or worse in terms of being liquid friendly.
> 
> 
> 
> But can you stuff "more" WC components in the Luxe considering that the drive cage is not removable? If not, in what aspect does the Luxe shine over the Evolv aside from ventilation?
Click to expand...

yes. the Luxe takes bigger rads than the Evolv ATX. 420 rads, longer and thicker 360 rads, can do a 240 in front and bottom (they have to be slim though) as well.


----------



## OmegaRED.

Got my windowed anthracite grey up and running with 7 drives. I adore the fan controller. Every fan including my watercooled gtx 1080 running off cpu pwm. It is practically silent only hitting 51C at 2100gpu core and cpu [email protected] under 50C


----------



## paskowitz

First person I've seen actually use the front drive positions. Not sure if I'd set my GPU fan to CPU temp though...


----------



## OmegaRED.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> First person I've seen actually use the front drive positions. Not sure if I'd set my GPU fan to CPU temp though...


I have another drive caddy coming where does it go though? By the psu? That was my only hesitation with this case i have 8 drives plus SSD


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OmegaRED.*
> 
> Got my windowed anthracite grey up and running with 7 drives. I adore the fan controller. Every fan including my watercooled gtx 1080 running off cpu pwm. It is practically silent only hitting 51C at 2100gpu core and cpu [email protected] under 50C


The top fans are simply recirculating air with the way you have it set up, they are doing nothing in terms of airflow. You need to isolate the front and back of them for them to actually do something:


----------



## CoreyL4

What do people use to block off the top space of the the evolv atx?


----------



## OrangeRaptor

would I have t block off the top spaces on the entho pro m since it has the same chassis?


----------



## CoreyL4

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> The top fans are simply recirculating air with the way you have it set up, they are doing nothing in terms of airflow. You need to isolate the front and back of them for them to actually do something:


What is the best thing to use to block this off?


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CoreyL4*
> 
> What is the best thing to use to block this off?


Some black masking tape on both sides would do the job, and it usually comes off pretty clean. Most other tapes tend leave a lot of sticky residue if left for a long time.


----------



## pez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OrangeRaptor*
> 
> I would have to agree. I think it's kind of funny that the Pro M has better airflow even though it's cheaper but has the same chassis.


The Pro M also misses out on metal bits and has some plastic in places on the outside. The Pro M looks good to me, but it's clear that the Pro M is function over form and the Evolv ATX (TG) is the opposite.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> 2 words for you : Gently Typhoon
> 
> now if nidec ever made a 140mm GT .... i would use them....


I appreciate the opinion, but Phanteks fans still reign supreme in noise profile for me.

I've heard EK Vardars, GTs, Scythe S-Flex models (loved the noise profile on those), multiple Noctuas, various Phanteks, Kazes, Corsair fans (all but the MLs at this point), and various others, but I always came back to the Phanteks fans. I'm super picky about noise profiles (especially in my NCASE) so I pay attention to these things and then I evaluate their 'real-world usage' for myself. I don't measure things, but I monitor my system and 'live' with it.

In the end, even though the GTs are going to perform within margin of error in results, I still prefer the Phanteks noise profile. Hell, I prefer the Pascal-series blower/FE cooler over the 3 x 90mm of the 1080 Ti STRIX because I'll take a loud whoosh any day over that.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> For me it is, but there are a lot of people who value function over form. I don't expect Phanteks to get it right the first or even second time... but for v3 if some of these issues are not addressed, I'll be strongly considering other options.


Well if people really wanted function over form, they would get the same layout and the properly vented case (i.e. the Pro m).
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> I can't really figure out what you two are arguing about, @doyll and @Mega Man.....but it seems to be a fan conversation rather than a Phanteks case conversation. And just my two cents....I tried the GTs, eLoops, Noctua iPPC (which really don't belong in this company with all of the low rpm noise they have) and a few others in my Primo, Luxe and Evolv ATX on the rads. I went back to the F120MP all three times - most pleasing sound profile to *my* ears, and no performance sacrifice at all.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Worst sounding fans I ever voluntarily put in my case. By far. By really, really far. Mind you, I have had to review fans that sound worse, but when the iPPC came out I was all over grabbing them thinking that they would essentially be a high speed version of their existing. Boy was I wrong..... I couldn't stand them for more than a week. Had to rip apart a large loop in a Primo to get them out. Noise aside, I wouldn't say they perform "very, very well" on anything but extremely low density rads. Actually, even then I would call it "ok....just kind of average....but with more mechanical noise". They are labeled as industrial for good reason.
> 
> The F120MP is quite a bit better than the 140mm relatively speaking. I actually always preferred the F140SP to the MP for case fan use. Even at that, you would be hard pressed to find a better 140mm case fan for many applications than the F140MP or SP. They are quiet, have low start up speeds, great sound profiles and move a good amount of air.


I'm glad I'm not the only one







. Maybe I'm understanding wrong, but are you saying you prefer to the run the 120MP in your system over the 140SP?


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OrangeRaptor*
> 
> would I have t block off the top spaces on the entho pro m since it has the same chassis?


For purist, yes, block unused holes, but it's not as crictical in Pro M. Yes, same chassis but much more vent area in the top.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CoreyL4*
> 
> What is the best thing to use to block this off?


Paper, tape, plastic, cardboard, etc. .. as long as it stops air from leaking from top compartment back into motherboard compartment.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pez*
> 
> The Pro M also misses out on metal bits and has some plastic in places on the outside. The Pro M looks good to me, but it's clear that the Pro M is function over form and the Evolv ATX (TG) is the opposite.
> I appreciate the opinion, but Phanteks fans still reign supreme in noise profile for me.
> 
> I've heard EK Vardars, GTs, Scythe S-Flex models (loved the noise profile on those), multiple Noctuas, various Phanteks, Kazes, Corsair fans (all but the MLs at this point), and various others, but I always came back to the Phanteks fans. I'm super picky about noise profiles (especially in my NCASE) so I pay attention to these things and then I evaluate their 'real-world usage' for myself. I don't measure things, but I monitor my system and 'live' with it.
> 
> In the end, even though the GTs are going to perform within margin of error in results, I still prefer the Phanteks noise profile. Hell, I prefer the Pascal-series blower/FE cooler over the 3 x 90mm of the 1080 Ti STRIX because I'll take a loud whoosh any day over that.
> Well if people really wanted function over form, they would get the same layout and the properly vented case (i.e. the Pro m).
> 
> I'm glad I'm not the only one
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Maybe I'm understanding wrong, but are you saying you prefer to the run the 120MP in your system over the 140SP?


Agree, Pro M is more function oriented while ATX is more look oriented. I do not have Pro M but have Luxe (similar chassis) Evolv ATX and P400. All work well for me, although I don't like the looks and feel of P400 as well.

GTs are still very good fans, but where they were the only one on top of the mountain a few years ago, they how have lots of others on top with them.


----------



## Bill Owen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *labjet*
> 
> In an attempt to improve air flow i also purchased the Evolv vented bezel from Mnpctech https://mnpctech.com/phanteks-case-mods/phanteks-primo-front-grill-en/evolv-vented-front-panel.html
> From my limited testing i saw and improvment of about 2-3c underload, the cool down from load to idle though was alot quicker.
> Looks wise not as great as stock.


Your Phanteks EVOLV build turned out fantastic!


----------



## kaiqi07

Just to share. Decided not to wait get it done myself. Did some measurements and done up the drawing before sending the TOP panel to the metal workshop to get it cut.

Here is the end results.



http://imgur.com/iT47HSj


Had ordered perforated metal sheet will spray it black and place it under the panel holes.


----------



## harrisonk

So, I'm waiting for the mATX Evolv TG to become available right now, and have decided that regardless of any design compromises regarding airflow, I'm going to run 2x 240mm radiators (top/front). I'm a firm believer that positive case pressure is important, but with only 5 fans (4 of which are on radiators), that makes a lot of decisions regarding airflow moot.



My conclusion is that the top and front radiator fans both need to intake, since making the rear fan an intake seems counter intuitive with all the passive exhaust holes on the back. I know this would require all the holes in both the top and front plates to be blocked off so that I don't end up sucking air from inside the case back through the fans. I have some high-flow filter foam that I'd place up top to limit intake of dust from the top fans, since they don't have a case filter. I'd have the top/front fans pulling rather than pushing through the radiator to allow as much gap between the panels and the fans as possible. I fully acknowledge that there's a serious airflow restriction with the top plate.

My questions are...

How critical is the rear fan with this layout? I plan on replacing the 3-pin fans with PWM fans regardless. If this fan can be skipped, then it saves me a little bit of money.
Is cutting up the top panel mandatory for use as an intake? I know this is all guesswork at this point, since no one has built with the case yet. But thoughts are appreciated.
Am I missing something?


----------



## alexwill22

Hi guys!

Check out my second Phanteks build log The Elite Build

There will be more updates during the week.

Thanks


----------



## Alover

Hello!.
I used to have a entho pro m, not very pleased with, so i sold it and bought another stuff and bla bla.
Now i´m going to give phanteks another chance, this time with a evolv tg, but first i would like to know some opinions over there.
First of all, what about the noise? Does the tg vibrates/sound a lot? or it´s quieter than acrylic.
Is a good case ?
Flaws?
Thank you.


----------



## alexwill22

I am not sure if this question is addressed to me, but I am still in the middle of the build. It is going to take a couple of weeks before I answer your question. As far as build quality, I will give it an 9 out of 10. Just because I had a few screws not screwed in properly, but besides that, it seems to be a good quality case. I had the Phanteks Enthoo Evolv and my biggest gripe about that case was the ventilation on top of the case. I had to pull the hood off every time I game with 2 980ti cards.


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alexwill22*
> 
> I am not sure if this question is addressed to me, but I am still in the middle of the build. It is going to take a couple of weeks before I answer your question. As far as build quality, I will give it an 9 out of 10. Just because I had a few screws not screwed in properly, but besides that, it seems to be a good quality case. I had the Phanteks Enthoo Evolv and my biggest gripe about that case was the ventilation on top of the case. I had to pull the hood off every time I game with 2 980ti cards.


The community here is working with ModMyMods and in a couple weeks they will be offering modified top panels with more ventilation.


----------



## harrisonk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> The community here is working with ModMyMods and in a couple weeks they will be offering modified top panels with more ventilation.


Curious where I can find details about that.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *harrisonk*
> 
> Curious where I can find details about that.


There are no "official" details about it yet but last time (last week Friday) Joe from modmymods messaged me, via email, here's what he said:

Quote:


> It is not final yet but we are leaning towards "Paskowitz" design. The corners would have a 1/8" radius at each corner because we are using a CNC router for the cut.
> 
> I have attached his design.
> 
> We really wanted the hole mesh design but the company that has the CNC said the run time would be a lot longer increasing the final cost.
> 
> Essentially we will either do Paskowitz design or a slight variation of that design to make the run time on the CNC the shortest to keep the final cost down. We want to make this mod as cost effective for the customer as possible. Plus his design goes with the overall look of the case.
> 
> Suggestions are welcome.


The Paskowtiz design being this:


----------



## levibaker88

Has anyone had any success obtaining the vertical GPU mount from the Enthoo Elite as it isn't listed as a separate accessory on the website?


----------



## harrisonk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> The Paskowtiz design being this:


I'm assuming this effort is for the Evolv ATX TG initially? Are you aware of any discussion regarding offering the same for the mATX TG case? The top panels are 110mm shorter on the mATX version.

Also, is this a 'mail-in service', or are they going to be buying replacement panels from Phanteks, and supplying a completed part?


----------



## Alover

Wich fan is better? 140mp or 140xp? :S I like quiet fans.


----------



## BriTcanting

Is there anywhere in the UK to mod the top panel of the Luxe? It really restricts the air coming through.


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *harrisonk*
> 
> I'm assuming this effort is for the Evolv ATX TG initially? Are you aware of any discussion regarding offering the same for the mATX TG case? The top panels are 110mm shorter on the mATX version.
> 
> Also, is this a 'mail-in service', or are they going to be buying replacement panels from Phanteks, and supplying a completed part?


Right now I think the focus is on the ATX chassis, but I'd give mmm a call and inquire.

They are buying the top covers in bulk from phanteks and supplying a complete part.


----------



## revel2k9

I was in contact with Joe about this as well. As paskowitz said, theyre looking to buy the top covers in bulk and just supply a whole new modded cover. So with this I figured I'd at least take my own attempt at doing a vent mod, and it turned out decent I think. I simply cut a hole to size with a jigsaw, filed it down, and then sanded a silverstone fan filter to fit. I just bought the evolv and it was my first attempt at any kind of case modding, I painted the interior as well. Overall I'm just glad i didnt totally destroy this case







pics below



http://imgur.com/A5eUl


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *revel2k9*
> 
> I was in contact with Joe about this as well. As paskowitz said, theyre looking to buy the top covers in bulk and just supply a whole new modded cover. So with this I figured I'd at least take my own attempt at doing a vent mod, and it turned out decent I think. I simply cut a hole to size with a jigsaw, filed it down, and then sanded a silverstone fan filter to fit. I just bought the evolv and it was my first attempt at any kind of case modding, I painted the interior as well. Overall I'm just glad i didnt totally destroy this case
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> pics below
> 
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/A5eUl


Came out good, I am guessing your airflow is much improved.


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *revel2k9*
> 
> I was in contact with Joe about this as well. As paskowitz said, theyre looking to buy the top covers in bulk and just supply a whole new modded cover. So with this I figured I'd at least take my own attempt at doing a vent mod, and it turned out decent I think. I simply cut a hole to size with a jigsaw, filed it down, and then sanded a silverstone fan filter to fit. I just bought the evolv and it was my first attempt at any kind of case modding, I painted the interior as well. Overall I'm just glad i didnt totally destroy this case
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> pics below
> 
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/A5eUl


Looks great!


----------



## Zhuni

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *revel2k9*
> 
> I was in contact with Joe about this as well. As paskowitz said, theyre looking to buy the top covers in bulk and just supply a whole new modded cover. So with this I figured I'd at least take my own attempt at doing a vent mod, and it turned out decent I think. I simply cut a hole to size with a jigsaw, filed it down, and then sanded a silverstone fan filter to fit. I just bought the evolv and it was my first attempt at any kind of case modding, I painted the interior as well. Overall I'm just glad i didnt totally destroy this case
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> pics below
> 
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/A5eUl


Wow dude you did great! well done.


----------



## revel2k9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rfarmer*
> 
> Came out good, I am guessing your airflow is much improved.


To be honest, I don't know but im assuming it would be lol. I haven't even built in the case yet. My build is currently in a s340 elite and im moving it all over to the evolv to do my first custom loop. All the watercooling parts + 1080 ti should be coming in by end of next week so I was just getting the case mods out of the way.


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *revel2k9*
> 
> To be honest, I don't know but im assuming it would be lol. I haven't even built in the case yet. My build is currently in a s340 elite and im moving it all over to the evolv to do my first custom loop. All the watercooling parts + 1080 ti should be coming in by end of next week so I was just getting the case mods out of the way.


Good luck with your build and make sure and post some pics.


----------



## revel2k9

sure thing!


----------



## ozlay

What happend to the Evolv Matx? I can't seem to find it anywhere? PH-ES314E


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozlay*
> 
> What happend to the Evolv Matx? I can't seem to find it anywhere? PH-ES314E


There seems to be some confusion with naming .. the are sometimes called Evolv and other times Evolv mATX
Basically we have 3 Evolv case sizes dependent on maximum motherboard sizes:
ATX . = Evolv ATS
mATX = Evolv or Evolv mATX
ITX . = Evolv ITX
Easy way to know which is which is look at the back.
ATX . = 7 PCIe back covers
mATX = 5 PCIe back slots / covers
ITX . = 2 PCIe back slots / covers
Here is normal Evolv case for mATX motherboard
https://www.phanteksusa.com/collections/cases/products/phanteks-enthoo-evolv-gray
Here is TG model for mATX motherboard
https://www.phanteksusa.com/products/phanteks-enthoo-evolv-matx-tempered-glass


----------



## jsf124512

Quote:


> This is my evolv btw. So before you go on about time, interest and money blah blah.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also my top is modded and my temps are more than fine. With that said, it cant be compared to a larger case. With that said the matx evolv and the atx size difference to me is minimal, and the decrease is not worth trying to make a tight fit more tight imo.


Hello, very nice build, are those two Hardware Labs Nemesis 360 GTS? If so, please, tell me if you need to mod the case to fit them in there and wich fans are you using.


----------



## ozlay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> There seems to be some confusion with naming .. the are sometimes called Evolv and other times Evolv mATX
> Basically we have 3 Evolv case sizes dependent on maximum motherboard sizes:
> ATX . = Evolv ATS
> mATX = Evolv or Evolv mATX
> ITX . = Evolv ITX
> Easy way to know which is which is look at the back.
> ATX . = 7 PCIe back covers
> mATX = 5 PCIe back slots / covers
> ITX . = 2 PCIe back slots / covers
> Here is normal Evolv case for mATX motherboard
> https://www.phanteksusa.com/collections/cases/products/phanteks-enthoo-evolv-gray
> Here is TG model for mATX motherboard
> https://www.phanteksusa.com/products/phanteks-enthoo-evolv-matx-tempered-glass


I was looking for the White case. I guess I should have put that in my post. I did not know they sold them on their site.









Its sold out on their site.

https://www.phanteksusa.com/collections/cases/products/phanteks-enthoo-evolv-white

I wonder how silver the the tempered glass case is.

https://www.phanteksusa.com/products/phanteks-enthoo-evolv-matx-tempered-glass?variant=34846335368


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozlay*
> 
> I was looking for the White case. I guess I should have put that in my post. I did not know they sold them on their site.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Its sold out on their site.
> https://www.phanteksusa.com/collections/cases/products/phanteks-enthoo-evolv-white
> 
> I wonder how silver the the tempered glass case is.
> https://www.phanteksusa.com/products/phanteks-enthoo-evolv-matx-tempered-glass?variant=34846335368


I've had cases in many colors over the years. To me silver looks unfinished / harsh. White and dark peuter / gunmetal gray are my favorites with black next. If setting on a text lighter colors are better. Along side or under desk darker colors are good. My Evolv ATX is anthracite gray looks good or under desk.


----------



## eXistencelies

Hello, very nice build, are those two Hardware Labs Nemesis 360 GTS? If so, please, tell me if you need to mod the case to fit them in there and wich fans are you using.[/quote]

I have two 360mm in mine. Only mod I really did was drill 4 holes into the sub fram for the top rad. I removed the rad bracket. The only other mod i did was notch out the pump tray so I can still have that in place with the front 360mm rad.

Here is my link


http://imgur.com/G4uVM


----------



## ozlay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> I've had cases in many colors over the years. To me silver looks unfinished / harsh. White and dark peuter / gunmetal gray are my favorites with black next. If setting on a text lighter colors are better. Along side or under desk darker colors are good. My Evolv ATX is anthracite gray looks good or under desk.


Yeah if they had the tempered glass mATX in white... I would already own it.


----------



## jsf124512

Quote:


> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *eXistencelies*
> 
> Hello, very nice build, are those two Hardware Labs Nemesis 360 GTS? If so, please, tell me if you need to mod the case to fit them in there and wich fans are you using.
> 
> 
> 
> I have two 360mm in mine. Only mod I really did was drill 4 holes into the sub fram for the top rad. I removed the rad bracket. The only other mod i did was notch out the pump tray so I can still have that in place with the front 360mm rad.
> 
> Here is my link
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/G4uVM
Click to expand...

Thanks for the information.


----------



## CoreyL4

What has better airflow? Evolv atx tg or enthoo pro m tg?


----------



## AyyMD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CoreyL4*
> 
> What has better airflow? Evolv atx tg or enthoo pro m tg?


Pro M.


----------



## CoreyL4

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AyyMD*
> 
> Pro M.


Could you tell me the reason why if you have a chance?


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CoreyL4*
> 
> Could you tell me the reason why if you have a chance?


Less restrictive front panel for intake, and open top for exhaust. It really is that simple.


----------



## AyyMD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Less restrictive front panel for intake, and open top for exhaust. It really is that simple.


Yeah, Pro M has the ventilated front panel and the holes on the side, the EVOLV only has it on the sides through a little crevice. I could look to see where all the vents are on my EVOLV, but it's flipped right now.


----------



## Alover

I used to have a entho pro m and i didn´t like it, the panels seems too thin and flimsy..
Now i´m going to buy another phanteks case, but i don´t know wich one i should get.
My favourite is the evolv atx tg, and maybe the luxe.
Wich phanteks case is the "best" overall, quality, materials, looks... etc


----------



## CoreyL4

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AyyMD*
> 
> Yeah, Pro M has the ventilated front panel and the holes on the side, the EVOLV only has it on the sides through a little crevice. I could look to see where all the vents are on my EVOLV, but it's flipped right now.


Between Pro M and Evolv which one would you pick?


----------



## AyyMD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CoreyL4*
> 
> Between Pro M and Evolv which one would you pick?


(heh, that's my case and my friend's).

I'd pick the Pro M if I had the choice again.


----------



## CoreyL4

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AyyMD*
> 
> (heh, that's my case and my friend's).
> 
> I'd pick the Pro M if I had the choice again.


Ok thanks.

Right now my main rig is in the evolv atx. Ordered a pro m for a spare rig, but maybe debating switching the cases.


----------



## kfxsti

Made the switch from a Silverstone Primera to the Evolv Tempered Glass . It's awesome to finally have room for rad fans on top.


----------



## nycgtr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kfxsti*
> 
> Made the switch from a Silverstone Primera to the Evolv Tempered Glass . It's awesome to finally have room for rad fans on top.


The irony


----------



## Alover

Hello!.
Can you explain the reason?
As i said i had a pro m and now i´m about to get a evolv, but also i´m considering getting the pro m again, but the tempered glass version.
Why would you chose the pro m over the evolv?


----------



## kfxsti

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nycgtr*
> 
> The irony


I'm lost lol.


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kfxsti*
> 
> I'm lost lol.


The Evolv isn't exactly renowned for its top rad room. With that said, it is an upgrade from what you had.


----------



## smithydan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alover*
> 
> Hello!.
> Can you explain the reason?
> As i said i had a pro m and now i´m about to get a evolv, but also i´m considering getting the pro m again, but the tempered glass version.
> Why would you chose the pro m over the evolv?


It is cheaper, that is the only reason lol... oh and probably the drive bay for some.


----------



## kfxsti

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> The Evolv isn't exactly renowned for its top rad room. With that said, it is an upgrade from what you had.


Exactly. I would have had to cut alot of metal AND plastic to get 3 fans of 120mm or larger on the 360 rad I have, on top of it or below it. On top plastic and metal being the burden. On bottom the motherboard and RAM were in the way. Don't get me wrong I would have loved to push pulled the top of Evolv . But being able to get all 3 fans on the 360 did wonders alone. I'm rather tickled lol.


----------



## Testing12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smithydan*
> 
> It is cheaper, that is the only reason lol... oh and probably the drive bay for some.


Uh... the drive bay? You mean the hard drive cage below the PSU shroud?
If so, aren't they both (the Evolv ATX and Pro M) the same?


----------



## Alover

So the evolv is a better option overall?
What about the refrigeration "problems"


----------



## Argowashi

Is it true that the NZXT X62 only fits in the Evolv if you drill new holes in the case?


----------



## PureBlackFire

^nope.


----------



## Alover

Pleez halp me i can´t decide.
Pro m tg or evol atx tg? D:

Also, what is you opinion about phanteks led strips? good quality?


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alover*
> 
> Pleez halp me i can´t decide.
> Pro m tg or evol atx tg? D:
> 
> Also, what is you opinion about phanteks led strips? good quality?


Reasons to close the Evolv TG
-You want a really sexy case
-Higher price doesn't bother you
-Limited air flow with a custom loop doesn't bother you. (Or modding to achieve better airflow)
-Transparent back side panel doesn't bother you.

Pro M
-Lower cost is nice
-Custon loop Airflow is a priority
-5.25 bay support
-Standard looks don't bother you

Phanteks LEDs are good, better than most, but IMO I prefer NZXTs Hue system or cablemod.


----------



## kfxsti

Has anyone tinkered with cutting the top support braces to add fans on top? If did it change the rigidity of the case at all?


----------



## nycgtr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kfxsti*
> 
> Has anyone tinkered with cutting the top support braces to add fans on top? If did it change the rigidity of the case at all?


You dont need to cut it. There's 23mm of clearance if you just shave off the edges from underneath you can fit a 25mm fan.


----------



## kfxsti

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nycgtr*
> 
> You dont need to cut it. There's 23mm of clearance if you just shave off the edges from underneath you can fit a 25mm fan.


Thank you good sir +rep!!


----------



## OrangeRaptor

how good are noiseblocker NB eloop fans? are they better than say the pre installed fan in the enthoo pro m?


----------



## kfxsti

I didn't even play with the ones on the Evolv. I mounted the the Swiftech prestige with the Noiseblockers and haven't looked back as I absolutely love the performance and quietness of them. I dont remember what rpm they are running at right off .
But I can say that the Phanteks fans that I got with my Nemesis Rad ( Phanteks PH-F120MP) are pretty solid as well. I also have used Phanteks and Noiseblockers in pretty much all of my cases for a while now, on rads or just as Intake or exhaust fans.
This is just my experience with these. I am by no means a fan expert. But i love noiseblockers and the Phanteks fans.


----------



## paskowitz

As case fans, they are as good as equal. As radiator fans, the eLoops are better.


----------



## pez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Testing12*
> 
> Uh... the drive bay? You mean the hard drive cage below the PSU shroud?
> If so, aren't they both (the Evolv ATX and Pro M) the same?


No, the drive bay as in the ODD drive bay.


----------



## Testing12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pez*
> 
> No, the drive bay as in the ODD drive bay.


Ah, ok, I'm back on track.


----------



## Alover

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> Reasons to close the Evolv TG
> -You want a really sexy case
> -Higher price doesn't bother you
> -Limited air flow with a custom loop doesn't bother you. (Or modding to achieve better airflow)
> -Transparent back side panel doesn't bother you.
> 
> Pro M
> -Lower cost is nice
> -Custon loop Airflow is a priority
> -5.25 bay support
> -Standard looks don't bother you
> 
> Phanteks LEDs are good, better than most, but IMO I prefer NZXTs Hue system or cablemod.


So if you are using a "standard" air cpu cooler ther won´t be any cooling problems with the evolv?
Thank you


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alover*
> 
> So if you are using a "standard" air cpu cooler ther won´t be any cooling problems with the evolv?
> Thank you


For air cooling there is no thermal difference. In fact the Evolv may be marginally quieter.


----------



## Alover

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> For air cooling there is no thermal difference. In fact the Evolv may be marginally quieter.


As i said the thing i don´t like about the enhtoo pro m is that flimsy lateral panel.
So i´m worry about the tempered glass panel quality and how it could affect to the case noise.


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alover*
> 
> As i said the thing i don´t like about the enhtoo pro m is that flimsy lateral panel.
> So i´m worry about the tempered glass panel quality and how it could affect to the case noise.


Some people have had issues, most have had none. Phanteks does a better job than most in regards to QC.

If you are doing air and have the budget then just go with the Evolv.


----------



## nycgtr

As the pro m and evolv have the same interior. I just noticed the other day that my pcie slots don't line up flush and leaves gaps on the unused slots. Something that's excusable on a 89 dollar case but 200 not so much.


----------



## Dimensive

Looks like Newegg has the EVOLV mATX with tempered glass kind of up: https://www.newegg.com/Product/ProductList.aspx?Submit=ENE&IsNodeId=1&N=100007583%2050060115%204804


----------



## levibaker88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dimensive*
> 
> Looks like Newegg has the EVOLV mATX with tempered glass kind of up: https://www.newegg.com/Product/ProductList.aspx?Submit=ENE&IsNodeId=1&N=100007583%2050060115%204804


Yep, a little wee came out in excitement haha


----------



## Alex132

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Testing12*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *pez*
> 
> No, the drive bay as in the ODD drive bay.
> 
> 
> 
> Ah, ok, I'm back on track.
Click to expand...

Is your avatar a fat, balding man looking away with pouting lips??


----------



## daveangel

Hi guys

Interested in the modmymod replacement lids.

Anyone get an I indication of when they may be able to supply ?

Thanks


----------



## Dimensive

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alex132*
> 
> Is your avatar a fat, balding man looking away with pouting lips??


Alfred Hitchcock:


----------



## Testing12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alex132*
> 
> Is your avatar a fat, balding man looking away with pouting lips??


https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Alfred_Hitchcock










Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dimensive*
> 
> Alfred Hitchcock:


LOL - I entered my reply then saw yours.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *daveangel*
> 
> Hi guys
> 
> Interested in the modmymod replacement lids.
> 
> Anyone get an I indication of when they may be able to supply ?
> 
> Thanks


Yesterday's reply from Joe:

Kevin,

We just got the panels in yesterday. In the next few days we should have design figured out as well as a cost.

Will keep you posted once I have that information.

Best regards,

Joe


----------



## smonkie

I just received my Evolv tempered glass silver and I'm a bit disapointed about the silver colour, maybe I was expecting something much more white.

Just in case I decided to paint front and top panels, which results should I expect? Any experiences so far? Would a simple spray do the job right?


----------



## kaiqi07

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smonkie*
> 
> I just received my Evolv tempered glass silver and I'm a bit disapointed about the silver colour, maybe I was expecting something much more white.
> 
> Just in case I decided to paint front and top panels, which results should I expect? Any experiences so far? Would a simple spray do the job right?


I had just cut vent holes on the front panel and will be powder coating the whole case's alu panels. Will show u the powder coated parts I did tml after I collect it


----------



## eXistencelies

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kaiqi07*
> 
> I had just cut vent holes on the front panel and will be powder coating the whole case's alu panels. Will show u the powder coated parts I did tml after I collect it


Can you do mine please lol


----------



## kaiqi07

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eXistencelies*
> 
> Can you do mine please lol


I won't mind if u are located in Singapore haha


----------



## eXistencelies

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kaiqi07*
> 
> I won't mind if u are located in Singapore haha


BRB hopping in my private jet!


----------



## OmegaRED.

Added LED lighting to mine. Looks pretty but that cooler is ugly lol.


----------



## kovyrshin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OmegaRED.*
> 
> Added LED lighting to mine. Looks pretty but that cooler is ugly lol.


Looks great with all that drives. I was thinking daabout dual-cpu system in EVOLV, but got a great deal on eatx mobo instead.


----------



## 2002whitegt

I just moved all my old pc parts to the new Evolv mATX TG, and I really like it. I'm going to hold off on a custom waterloop for when I jump to a new cpu, but I'm holding onto my 4790k till the end.

I went with the push/pull setup mostly to fill out the top, seems like the case is a bit too tall in my opinion. Now I need to get brave enough to mod the top case cover to open it up.


----------



## kaiqi07

Just done up the front panel vent holes and also powder coated all of the alu panels.



http://imgur.com/YBZ9TU4


----------



## 2BNier

Anyone with x2 360 radiators in the Evolv ATX case see a reduction in temperature system wide after removing their top radiator?

I did a delid and took the opportunity to remove my top radiator which would get extremely hot when gaming.

My 6700k at 4.8Ghz 1.45v saw 30 degree reduction and my x2 780ti's saw maybe a 10-15 degree reduction (Haven't done any long stress testing or gaming sessions yet). I was thinking that maybe the top radiator in combination with the top panel was negatively affecting my cooling.

Radiators are the HardwareLabs Black Ice Nemesis GTS 360 Radiators.


----------



## kaiqi07

Took the panel outs and inspect. Very good powder coats done by the powder coating company. Block off the screw holes to prevent the coats go into the thread holes.

Will head home to fix it back to the frame.



http://imgur.com/qkAfkqP


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kaiqi07*
> 
> Took the panel outs and inspect. Very good powder coats done by the powder coating company. Block off the screw holes to prevent the coats go into the thread holes.
> 
> Will head home to fix it back to the frame.
> 
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/qkAfkqP


Looks terrific!


----------



## kaiqi07

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> Looks terrific!


Thanks buddy. Now waiting for my perforated metal sheet to arrive. Still deciding what Color to paint. Keeping it black if not deep red


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kaiqi07*
> 
> Thanks buddy. Now waiting for my perforated metal sheet to arrive. Still deciding what Color to paint. Keeping it black if not deep red


Why not black with dark red flakes?

Not the best image but you get the idea...


----------



## kaiqi07

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> Why not black with dark red flakes?
> 
> Not the best image but you get the idea...


Perforated sheet is gonna be secured under those hex holes acting as fan grills.


----------



## nycgtr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *2BNier*
> 
> Anyone with x2 360 radiators in the Evolv ATX case see a reduction in temperature system wide after removing their top radiator?
> 
> I did a delid and took the opportunity to remove my top radiator which would get extremely hot when gaming.
> 
> My 6700k at 4.8Ghz 1.45v saw 30 degree reduction and my x2 780ti's saw maybe a 10-15 degree reduction (Haven't done any long stress testing or gaming sessions yet). I was thinking that maybe the top radiator in combination with the top panel was negatively affecting my cooling.
> 
> Radiators are the HardwareLabs Black Ice Nemesis GTS 360 Radiators.


Then you have other problems. I was getting pretty much 1 rad temps when I had 2 (same rads btw) with the top on. With the topped modded it dropped a lot lol. You can easily run it without the top lid on and know if it's the lid or your loop. I have a rear fan as intake I find it to help alot with making the top rad run and feel cooler.


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kaiqi07*


Oh, your meant the perforated sheet not the case. In that case I'd do black.


----------



## kaiqi07

Fixed back all the panels back into the frame. Now left with my perforated sheets.



http://imgur.com/12wdno5




http://imgur.com/CXEnvhN


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kaiqi07*
> 
> Fixed back all the panels back into the frame. Now left with my perforated sheets.
> 
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/12wdno5
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/CXEnvhN


I like the way it looks with not grill mesh .. and mesh is very restrictive .. as data in below link shows.
http://www.overclock.net/t/1491876/ways-to-better-cooling-airflow-cooler-fan-data/0_20#post_22657923


----------



## Alover

Is someone experiencing a "UFO" sound with 140sp fans?
I don´t know how to describe it better than that xd. It really sounds like an UFO


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alover*
> 
> Is someone experiencing a "UFO" sound with 140sp fans?
> I don´t know how to describe it better than that xd. It really sounds like an UFO


So....you have something that sounds like something that no one has definitively heard, and are expecting anyone to be able to identify it? Are you sure it doesn't sound like a unicorn's mating call? Can we at least get a "sounds like the UFO in XYZ movie"?

If it is a pulsing resonance, it is either your HDD causing a resonant frequency in the case, or the fans being just enough off in speed to cause a dissonance. If you eliminate it being the HDD (which it is about 75% of the time), and if you unplug one of the intakes and the sound goes away, that is the case. Contact Phanteks customer service, tell them the issue, and they will likely send you new fans.


----------



## Alover

I don´t have any hdd in my case.
The sound is more noticeable when the fan is accelerating or decelerating.
Maybe is a "normal" sound, but i have nothing to compare with :S.


----------



## paskowitz

Already posted in the watercooling thread but I might as well post here. This is what my modded top looks like.


----------



## Dimensive

I really like that top! Did you do anything with the front panel?


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dimensive*
> 
> I really like that top! Did you do anything with the front panel?


I have not. I don't think it is particularly necessary and Phanteks charges $30 for a front panel and $20 to ship the the east coast. I could ship mine out but ATM I think increasing the screw length is enough. The top panel has a much greater effect.


----------



## jura11

Here is my finished build





Thanks, Jura


----------



## pez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kovyrshin*
> 
> Looks great with all that drives. I was thinking daabout dual-cpu system in EVOLV, but got a great deal on eatx mobo instead.


Was just thinking that. I don't think I've see a system that's used those bays just yet. The floating look is really nice.


----------



## levibaker88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *2002whitegt*
> 
> I just moved all my old pc parts to the new Evolv mATX TG, and I really like it. I'm going to hold off on a custom waterloop for when I jump to a new cpu, but I'm holding onto my 4790k till the end.
> 
> I went with the push/pull setup mostly to fill out the top, seems like the case is a bit too tall in my opinion. Now I need to get brave enough to mod the top case cover to open it up.


I'm curious to know if you could fit a 120mm fan in the bottom most position in the front without having to remove that panel on the psu shroud?


----------



## Blinky7

Anybody with an Eclipse actually used a Cryorig R1 cooler or other similar in height?
The specs say the case supports up to 160mm and the cooler is 168.5mm according to Cryorig (more like 165mm if you push fans lower) so it shouldnt work. However according to my previous experiences manufactufers tend to be a bit conservative on these measurements.

So has anyone actually tried fitting a huge air cooler?

I already got the cooler and the parts of my Ryzen build are on the way and want to get the P400s TG case but not to find later it doesnt fit :/


----------



## 2002whitegt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *levibaker88*
> 
> I'm curious to know if you could fit a 120mm fan in the bottom most position in the front without having to remove that panel on the psu shroud?


Yes, you can mount a regular 120mm all the way down or a 140mm for that matter. There's a gap there just for that.


----------



## kevindd992002

Anyone using an Aqualis XT in the Evolv ATX? How did you guys mount it there? Is there a rad mount for this res?


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blinky7*
> 
> Anybody with an Eclipse actually used a Cryorig R1 cooler or other similar in height?
> The specs say the case supports up to 160mm and the cooler is 168.5mm according to Cryorig (more like 165mm if you push fans lower) so it shouldnt work. However according to my previous experiences manufactufers tend to be a bit conservative on these measurements.
> 
> So has anyone actually tried fitting a huge air cooler?
> 
> I already got the cooler and the parts of my Ryzen build are on the way and want to get the P400s TG case but not to find later it doesnt fit :/


I've measured the R1 Ultimate and Universal and both are 168mm to top of cooler shrouds. I have P400 but did not try fitting a cooler that is 8mm taller than specs say will fit. I measured distance from top of CPU to underside of side at 162mm .. I don't think you can force a R1 into that


----------



## ITAngel

Hey guys I think I am going to upgrade my case and about to do the ordering for the http://phanteks.com/Enthoo-Primo-SE.htmlPhanteks Enthoo Primo Special Edition case. Would this be a good all around case to have for extra drives, air cooling and future water cooling and such?


----------



## jura11

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ITAngel*
> 
> Hey guys I think I am going to upgrade my case and about to do the ordering for the http://phanteks.com/Enthoo-Primo-SE.htmlPhanteks Enthoo Primo Special Edition case. Would this be a good all around case to have for extra drives, air cooling and future water cooling and such?


Hi there

I can only recommend Enthoo Primo, have this case and must say is one of the best cases what I owned

Have run like with NH-D15 and two GPU and no issues

Currently running 360mm radiator/60mm thick on top, 240mm 60mm thick radiator and as exhaust 120mm 30mm thick radiator etc and still have space for 3*SSD, 7*3.5" HDD

Depends on yours configuration or what components you will have,but I'm pretty sure that will accommodate most of the builds

In regards of air cooling,this case has been and in my view is best case

Hope this helps

Thanks, Jura


----------



## nycgtr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ITAngel*
> 
> Hey guys I think I am going to upgrade my case and about to do the ordering for the http://phanteks.com/Enthoo-Primo-SE.htmlPhanteks Enthoo Primo Special Edition case. Would this be a good all around case to have for extra drives, air cooling and future water cooling and such?


I have this case as well and I am going to mod the crap out of it soon. It's good for watercooling if your willing to use a bay reservoir or stick with reference sized gpus to use the reservoir bracket. The limit is 10.5inches to the bracket. It's a good case, a little outdated at this point. I wouldn't get this case for air.


----------



## ITAngel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nycgtr*
> 
> I have this case as well and I am going to mod the crap out of it soon. It's good for watercooling if your willing to use a bay reservoir or stick with reference sized gpus to use the reservoir bracket. The limit is 10.5inches to the bracket. It's a good case, a little outdated at this point. I wouldn't get this case for air.


I see what you mean, What would you recommend for air cooling that is similar with newer features.


----------



## ITAngel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jura11*
> 
> Hi there
> 
> I can only recommend Enthoo Primo, have this case and must say is one of the best cases what I owned
> 
> Have run like with NH-D15 and two GPU and no issues
> 
> Currently running 360mm radiator/60mm thick on top, 240mm 60mm thick radiator and as exhaust 120mm 30mm thick radiator etc and still have space for 3*SSD, 7*3.5" HDD
> 
> Depends on yours configuration or what components you will have,but I'm pretty sure that will accommodate most of the builds
> 
> In regards of air cooling,this case has been and in my view is best case
> 
> Hope this helps
> 
> Thanks, Jura


This information does help a lot thanks!


----------



## dlewbell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ITAngel*
> 
> Hey guys I think I am going to upgrade my case and about to do the ordering for the http://phanteks.com/Enthoo-Primo-SE.htmlPhanteks Enthoo Primo Special Edition case. Would this be a good all around case to have for extra drives, air cooling and future water cooling and such?


Is there anything you're not happy with on your Enthoo Pro? Do you just like the look of the Enthoo Primo SE, or is there something you're trying to get out of it that you don't currently have with the Enthoo Pro? The Primo seems to be a great case (no personal experience) & I wouldn't try to talk you out of it, but as long as you're still air cooling, I'm not sure what you'll get out of it beyond what you already have. On the other hand, if you're sure you're switching to water soon & have a plan that works well for the Primo, go ahead & get it.


----------



## springs113

All you Luxe TG owners...Can the drive cages be removed?To accommodate a 360mm rad?


----------



## ITAngel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *springs113*
> 
> All you Luxe TG owners...Can the drive cages be removed?To accommodate a 360mm rad?


I know the Luxe is an updated version of the pro and the pro hard drive cages can be removed.


----------



## dlewbell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *springs113*
> 
> All you Luxe TG owners...Can the drive cages be removed?To accommodate a 360mm rad?


The 3.5" drive bays are clearly listed as removable but would only allow for a 240mm (or maybe a smallish 280mm) radiator, so I assume you're referring to the 5.25" Drive bays. Yes, these can be removed as well, but it requires partial disassembly of the case. More importantly, there's no space for air intake behind the 5.25" bay covers. You would want to pull the 5.25" bay covers & put some sort of intake grill in that area. You'd also only be able to attach the radiator to the case with the bolt pattern for the lower 2 fans, as there's no mounting locations provided for a third fan. That said, none of these issues are insurmountable by any means, & I have seen it done on here. It's just not as simple as removing a few thumbscrews, pulling cages, & calling it good.


----------



## ITAngel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dlewbell*
> 
> Is there anything you're not happy with on your Enthoo Pro? Do you just like the look of the Enthoo Primo SE, or is there something you're trying to get out of it that you don't currently have with the Enthoo Pro? The Primo seems to be a great case (no personal experience) & I wouldn't try to talk you out of it, but as long as you're still air cooling, I'm not sure what you'll get out of it beyond what you already have. On the other hand, if you're sure you're switching to water soon & have a plan that works well for the Primo, go ahead & get it.


1. I want more direct air to the GPU which the Primo allows you to do that but not the Pro or Luxe.
2. I want more storage with at least 140mm fans on the fronts and better style but I know that is easily provided by both Pro and Luxe.
3. LED looks nice and I want the USB and bottons to be on the outside of the case like on the top or the side. I hate getting up and opening the flip door on the case to have access to them.
4. A lot of air cooling and so far the Primo and Phantom 820 and DG-87 seems to provide enough airflow like that with the flexibilities.

The cases I been looking into has been.

*Phanteks Luxe* = Like the Temperate Glass, and LED I am worry I can't put the GPU pole on the end of the card which is what I want to do. Same issue I have with the Pro but I can't confirm that will happen with the Luxe.
*Phanteks Primo* = I like the color options black on the outside and white on the inside. I like all the fans connections you can have and it looks clean not screaming gamer at your face. Only worry that is already to out dated but may still work for me. Still looking to see if anything is better than this tower at the same cost.
*NZXT Phantom 820* = Nice cooling capacity but it scream gamer to me and I don't think I like that plus no PSU cover. Not sure how I can support the card the way I want to the GPU that is.
*EVGA DG-87* = Like the features on this one 3x 140mm on the front, nice colors and feature. I like that I can put the gpu pole holder on the back of the card and not have to worry about hard drive cages. My worry here is how far the PSU is I may need extended cables for the 24pin and the 8+8 for the CPU. Plus it looks pretty massive.


----------



## springs113

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dlewbell*
> 
> The 3.5" drive bays are clearly listed as removable but would only allow for a 240mm (or maybe a smallish 280mm) radiator, so I assume you're referring to the 5.25" Drive bays. Yes, these can be removed as well, but it requires partial disassembly of the case. More importantly, there's no space for air intake behind the 5.25" bay covers. You would want to pull the 5.25" bay covers & put some sort of intake grill in that area. You'd also only be able to attach the radiator to the case with the bolt pattern for the lower 2 fans, as there's no mounting locations provided for a third fan. That said, none of these issues are insurmountable by any means, & I have seen it done on here. It's just not as simple as removing a few thumbscrews, pulling cages, & calling it good.


well that seems easier than my mod i had to do on my 750d in order to use dual 360s.


----------



## revel2k9

well I finally finished my first custom loop build in my phantek evolv. Really happy with how it turned out. I did do a top panel mod, I did away with the radiator bracket and mounted the top rad directly to the frame, and i painted the interior. This build I did a lot of first tries at things. Like i said, this was my first venture into water cooling, and it was my first time doing any sort of case modding. Honestly surprised everything went as well as it did lol.

I dont have any comparison temps because I didnt build in this case prior to this, I switched from an s340 elite and did all the mods before ever using the case. From initial testing i got a peak of 67c on my 4.5 6700k after 30 mins of p95, at the time I ended testing the cores were bouncing between high 50s-low 60s. 1080ti stock after 30 mins of heaven peaked at 45C. Idle of both cpu/gpu is 21-24C.

Few pics below


http://imgur.com/P7dHH


----------



## ITAngel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *revel2k9*
> 
> well I finally finished my first custom loop build in my phantek evolv. Really happy with how it turned out. I did do a top panel mod, I did away with the radiator bracket and mounted the top rad directly to the frame, and i painted the interior. This build I did a lot of first tries at things. Like i said, this was my first venture into water cooling, and it was my first time doing any sort of case modding. Honestly surprised everything went as well as it did lol.
> 
> I dont have any comparison temps because I didnt build in this case prior to this, I switched from an s340 elite and did all the mods before ever using the case. From initial testing i got a peak of 67c on my 4.5 6700k after 30 mins of p95, at the time I ended testing the cores were bouncing between high 50s-low 60s. 1080ti stock after 30 mins of heaven peaked at 45C. Idle of both cpu/gpu is 21-24C.
> 
> Few pics below
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/P7dHH


That is one amazing setup you did there. Nice! Thanks for sharing the pictures.


----------



## kevindd992002

Can you mount an EK pump + pump top combo in the bottom chamber of the Evolv ATX when a 280mm front rad is present?


----------



## eXistencelies

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Can you mount an EK pump + pump top combo in the bottom chamber of the Evolv ATX when a 280mm front rad is present?


Yea. I fit a 360mm in the front with my pump in the bottom (where the hard drive bays are which i removed) and my 150mm reservoir above the pump sitting on the tray. 240mm up front will fit fine.


----------



## eXistencelies

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *revel2k9*
> 
> well I finally finished my first custom loop build in my phantek evolv. Really happy with how it turned out. I did do a top panel mod, I did away with the radiator bracket and mounted the top rad directly to the frame, and i painted the interior. This build I did a lot of first tries at things. Like i said, this was my first venture into water cooling, and it was my first time doing any sort of case modding. Honestly surprised everything went as well as it did lol.
> 
> I dont have any comparison temps because I didnt build in this case prior to this, I switched from an s340 elite and did all the mods before ever using the case. From initial testing i got a peak of 67c on my 4.5 6700k after 30 mins of p95, at the time I ended testing the cores were bouncing between high 50s-low 60s. 1080ti stock after 30 mins of heaven peaked at 45C. Idle of both cpu/gpu is 21-24C.
> 
> Few pics below
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/P7dHH


What do you have your top rad mounted as, intake or exhaust?


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eXistencelies*
> 
> Yea. I fit a 360mm in the front with my pump in the bottom (where the hard drive bays are which i removed) and my 150mm reservoir above the pump sitting on the tray. 240mm up front will fit fine.


What pump, pump top, and res did you use? And how did you mount them altogether? Do you have pics of those components mounted?


----------



## eXistencelies

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> What pump, pump top, and res did you use? And how did you mount them altogether? Do you have pics of those components mounted?


EK D5 Pump
EK 150mm Res
EK Multi Port Top

Pump sits in bay. Small tube connects to res from pump. Yea let me find my imgur link right fast.

Phantek Enthoo Evolv Tempered Glass Custom Water Loop (Green/Black Themed)


http://imgur.com/G4uVM


----------



## Gech

I just ordered Phanteks P400s TGE, should i buy extra case fans for my case or not? If yes should I put them on front or top? (Also which case fans shouId I buy if I have too, I would prefer to be like 10 euro each)


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eXistencelies*
> 
> EK D5 Pump
> EK 150mm Res
> EK Multi Port Top
> 
> Pump sits in bay. Small tube connects to res from pump. Yea let me find my imgur link right fast.
> 
> Phantek Enthoo Evolv Tempered Glass Custom Water Loop (Green/Black Themed)
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/G4uVM


I see. So did you have to drill holes in there?


----------



## eXistencelies

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> I see. So did you have to drill holes in there?


I did at first but it was hard to line up. So I just used heavy duty two sided tape instead. Sticks very well and reduces vibration.


----------



## revel2k9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eXistencelies*
> 
> What do you have your top rad mounted as, intake or exhaust?


exhaust. Top radiator and back fan are all exhaust, back fan 40%, top fans 50%, then got the 3 front fans running intake at 70%. Front fans are 2 vardars on the rad and a be quiet pure wings below them.. and I gotta say, they're damn quiet for 70% speed.


----------



## eXistencelies

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *revel2k9*
> 
> exhaust. Top radiator and back fan are all exhaust, back fan 40%, top fans 50%, then got the 3 front fans running intake at 70%. Front fans are 2 vardars on the rad and a be quiet pure wings below them.. and I gotta say, they're damn quiet for 70% speed.


Thanks. I am running both top and front as intake and rear as exhaust. I am hoping the mods I do to my panels will fix the heat problem in this case. I actually got 2c cooler running the top as intake than exhaust. I have all my TT Riing fans on max. Not all that loud when all panels are on.


----------



## kaiqi07

Just installed perforated steel plate to act as fan grills for the modded panels.

Front:


http://imgur.com/cfg6KZK


Top:


http://imgur.com/PYOasl7


----------



## springs113

Have you tested how restrictive attaching the steel to your front panel is?


----------



## kaiqi07

Not yet. It should perform better than the original panel for sure


----------



## ITAngel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kaiqi07*
> 
> Just installed perforated steel plate to act as fan grills for the modded panels.
> 
> Front:
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/cfg6KZK
> 
> 
> Top:
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/PYOasl7


That is nice! Were can I get those or have mine done that way?


----------



## kaiqi07

Thank you sir. Was debating if I should paint it deep red or black till I decide to stick to black.

I gotten it done with the help of a Friend. I resides in Singapore. There are ppl commented that by adding perforated sheet will restricted the air flow by 50%. But do note by cutting the holes, I had actually increased the air exhaust. Putting the perforated sheet is to prevent from items dropping into the rig itself.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kaiqi07*
> 
> Just installed perforated steel plate to act as fan grills for the modded panels.
> 
> Front:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/cfg6KZK
> 
> 
> Top:
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/PYOasl7


looks really good, but I'm guessing temps will go up significantly with mesh in. That mess looks to be blocking 70-80% of area .. and disrupting airflow by even more.

Here is a drawing of basic grill mesh designs showing what their open area / airflow area is. Notice hexagonal / honeycomb patterns have much more open area for air to flow through.


Your mesh looks about the same as the bottom left of these 9 grills with results is cfm and loss in %.

https://www.pugetsystems.com/labs/articles/Effects-of-Grill-Patterns-on-Fan-Performance-Noise-107/


----------



## ozlay

Anyone know if the Cryorig XF140 fan will fit in the Enthoo Evolv mATX TG as a rear fan? I can't seem to find dimensions of the rear fan.

Edit: NVM the Cryorig fan is cut to fit 140x140 so it should fit. For some reason i was thinking it was circular. I guess I have too many noctua fans


----------



## _Chimera

Just ordered a Phanteks Eclipse P400S, full black with no windows. Will be moving my build there while I wait for a better time to upgrade. Really love the case after all the research I've done, can't believe it was just 60€.

Also will be moving my six Gentle Typhoons into the P400S, they are over 7 years old and all of them are working like brand new. By far the best fans I've ever had, let's hope the new case lasts as long


----------



## nycgtr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozlay*
> 
> Anyone know if the Cryorig XF140 fan will fit in the Enthoo Evolv mATX TG as a rear fan? I can't seem to find dimensions of the rear fan.
> 
> Edit: NVM the Cryorig fan is cut to fit 140x140 so it should fit. For some reason i was thinking it was circular. I guess I have too many noctua fans


Yes it will I have one.


----------



## ozlay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nycgtr*
> 
> Yes it will I have one.


I think ill buy 5 of them then to match my r1 universal.









But not sure how to direct them I guess 2 in and 3 out.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozlay*
> 
> Anyone know if the Cryorig XF140 fan will fit in the Enthoo Evolv mATX TG as a rear fan? I can't seem to find dimensions of the rear fan.
> 
> Edit: NVM the Cryorig fan is cut to fit 140x140 so it should fit. For some reason i was thinking it was circular. I guess I have too many noctua fans


Short answer is no, you cannot use XF140 fans.

Cryorig XF140 is 140mm but it has 105mm mounting hole spacing, same as 120mm fans. Case does have mounting holes for both 120 and 140mm fans, but not for 140mm fans with 105mm mounting hole spacing.

The real question in my mind is why would you want spend money on a fan that does not idle as low, makes more noise, moves less air and can't overcome airflow resistance as well as the stock case fans do?


----------



## Blinky7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Short answer is no, you cannot use XF140 fans.
> 
> Cryorig XF140 is 140mm but it has 105mm mounting hole spacing, same as 120mm fans. Case does have mounting holes for both 120 and 140mm fans, but not for 140mm fans with 105mm mounting hole spacing.
> 
> The real question in my mind is why would you want spend money on a fan that does not idle as low, makes more noise, moves less air and can't overcome airflow resistance as well as the stock case fans do?


Actually, if I am not mistaken the 105mm hole distance is the standard 120mm fan hole distance (dont mistake the frame size with the hole distance which is obviously smaller)
So the fan technically should fit.
However I wouldn't recommend doing what you are planning because they are not that great fans to be honest especially for the price.

I mean they look quality and stuff and the packaging/bundle is nice, but in the performance deparment motor noise/airflow they are very lackluster, so I would go elsewhere


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blinky7*
> 
> Actually, if I am not mistaken the 105mm hole distance is the standard 120mm fan hole distance (dont mistake the frame size with the hole distance which is obviously smaller)
> So the fan technically should fit.
> However I wouldn't recommend doing what you are planning because they are not that great fans to be honest especially for the price.
> 
> I mean they look quality and stuff and the packaging/bundle is nice, but in the performance deparment motor noise/airflow they are very lackluster, so I would go elsewhere


I'm not sure what you are trying to say, but 105mm is normal 120mm fan spacing .. and it is also the spacing used on cooler fans like XF140, XT140, TH-140, TY-143, TY-147, NF-A15, etc.

XF140 will fit, but their mounting holes will probably not match the 120mm fan (105mm spacing) mounting holes in the case.

When it comes to trying to mount 140mm fans with 105mm mounting hole spacing (roundish fans used on coolers) fan holes rarely match up to the 120mm fan (105mm mounting holes) in the case.

Cases have fan mounting for 120mm fans (105mm spacing) and 140mm fans (124.5mm spacing).

They do not have mounting holes for 140mm fans with 105mm spaced mounting holes.

I had to either drill new mounting holes or used adapter plates to mount TY-14x fans in cases many, many times .. more than enough times to know that 140mm fans with 105mm hole spacing are usually not a bolt in fit.









Simply put, case fan mounting holes are not laid out for 140mm fans with 105mm hole spacing. Maybe this drawing of hole spacing will help.


I do agree, the XF140 is not as good a fan as the stock Phanteks case fans are .. except for the 200mm 'thing' they call a fan. I changed my R1 and H5 cooler fans to TY-147A fans.







If I was to change them agian, it would probably be to PH-F140HP_II fans (same as PH-F140MP but rounded instead of square).


----------



## Blinky7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> I'm not sure what you are trying to say, but 105mm is normal 120mm fan spacing .. and it is also the spacing used on cooler fans like XF140, XT140, TH-140, TY-143, TY-147, NF-A15, etc.
> 
> XF140 will fit, but their mounting holes will probably not match the 120mm fan (105mm spacing) mounting holes in the case.
> 
> When it comes to trying to mount 140mm fans with 105mm mounting hole spacing (roundish fans used on coolers) fan holes rarely match up to the 120mm fan (105mm mounting holes) in the case.
> 
> Cases have fan mounting for 120mm fans (105mm spacing) and 140mm fans (124.5mm spacing).
> 
> They do not have mounting holes for 140mm fans with 105mm spaced mounting holes.
> 
> I had to either drill new mounting holes or used adapter plates to mount TY-14x fans in cases many, many times .. more than enough times to know that 140mm fans with 105mm hole spacing are usually not a bolt in fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Simply put, case fan mounting holes are not laid out for 140mm fans with 105mm hole spacing. Maybe this drawing of hole spacing will help.
> 
> 
> I do agree, the XF140 is not as good a fan as the stock Phanteks case fans are .. except for the 200mm 'thing' they call a fan. I changed my R1 and H5 cooler fans to TY-147A fans.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If I was to change them agian, it would probably be to PH-F140HP_II fans (same as PH-F140MP but rounded instead of square).


we are saying the same thing. 105mm is the standard 120mm fan spacing.
The reason 140mm round fans with 105mm hole spacing were released was so that they could be mounted on heatsinks that only officially supported 120mm fans.

So the holes position should be perfectly fine to to mount the xf140 on 120mm fan position as long as there is no problem with the frame, which there shouldnt since that position also takes 140mm fans.

BTW I have also replaced my cryorig fans with ty147a and am much happier


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> I'm not sure what you are trying to say, but 105mm is normal 120mm fan spacing .. and it is also the spacing used on cooler fans like XF140, XT140, TH-140, TY-143, TY-147, NF-A15, etc......


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blinky7*
> 
> we are saying the same thing. 105mm is the standard 120mm fan spacing.
> The reason 140mm round fans with 105mm hole spacing .....


Regardless of whether or not they do fit.....I can't figure out _why_ someone would want them to. The Phanteks are much better fans in almost every respect, and are significantly more pleasant sounding.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Regardless of whether or not they do fit.....I can't figure out _why_ someone would want them to. The Phanteks are much better fans in almost every respect, and are significantly more pleasant sounding.


Exactly what I said several posts back.







Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> The real question in my mind is why would you want spend money on a fan that does not idle as low, makes more noise, moves less air and can't overcome airflow resistance as well as the stock case fans do?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blinky7*
> 
> we are saying the same thing. 105mm is the standard 120mm fan spacing.
> The reason 140mm round fans with 105mm hole spacing were released was so that they could be mounted on heatsinks that only officially supported 120mm fans.
> 
> So the holes position should be perfectly fine to to mount the xf140 on 120mm fan position as long as there is no problem with the frame, which there shouldnt since that position also takes 140mm fans.
> 
> BTW I have also replaced my cryorig fans with ty147a and am much happier


Rounded 140mm fans with 105mm mount spacing were not released so they could be mounted on heatsinks that support 120mm fans.








Someone is either feeding you a bunch of horse pucky or your room temp is higher number than your IQ.









No, the hole positions for 120mm fans are for 120mm fans. The added size of 140mm fan with 105 mount spacing means the fan housing often will not fit because it is too big and does not line up with the mounting holes in the case.

You can try it for yourself and you will see exactly what I keep trying to tell you is true .. but honestly I don't care if you believe me or not, just stop telling us things we know are not true, because many readers here do not have the experience to know you are telling porkies.


----------



## OrangeRaptor

i can see why some users have more rep than others.


----------



## Blinky7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Exactly what I said several posts back.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Rounded 140mm fans with 105mm mount spacing were not released so they could be mounted on heatsinks that support 120mm fans.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Someone is either feeding you a bunch of horse pucky or your room temp is higher number than your IQ.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> No, the hole positions for 120mm fans are for 120mm fans. The added size of 140mm fan with 105 mount spacing means the fan housing often will not fit because it is too big and does not line up with the mounting holes in the case.
> 
> You can try it for yourself and you will see exactly what I keep trying to tell you is true .. but honestly I don't care if you believe me or not, just stop telling us things we know are not true, because many readers here do not have the experience to know you are telling porkies.


First of all, I don't see where you got all that hatred from, I never attacked you in any of my posts.

Now on to the issue, you are wrong. Maybe you have in your mind 140mm fans (with 105mm holes) from other companies like Noctua/Thermalright that are not REALLY 140mm, they are 140mm in one side ane ~152mm in the other. The Cryorig XF140 fan that is in question here is a REAL 140mm fan in all sides with 105mm holes hence due to symmetry (basic maths FFS) it should fit just fine in 120mm fan holes.

And to prove it, look at the pictures below I just took with a gentle typhoon :




Now go *BEEP* yourself and your arrogance freely.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blinky7*
> 
> First of all, I don't see where you got all that hatred from, I never attacked you in any of my posts.
> 
> Now on to the issue, you are wrong. Maybe you have in your mind 140mm fans (with 105mm holes) from other companies like Noctua/Thermalright that are not REALLY 140mm, they are 140mm in one side ane ~152mm in the other. The Cryorig XF140 fan that is in question here is a REAL 140mm fan in all sides with 105mm holes hence due to symmetry (basic maths FFS) it should fit just fine in 120mm fan holes.
> 
> And to prove it, look at the pictures below I just took with a gentle typhoon :
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now go *BEEP* yourself and your arrogance freely.


You post up telling us 140mm fan with 105mm mount spacing will fit and mount up in cases when the truth is they will not. There is no hatred involved. I'm just telling you that what you are saying is untrue.

Look at your own examples, specifically the parts of the 140mm fan that is sticking 10+mm beyond the sides of your 120mm fan. Think about the added part of 140mm fans than is sticking from the 120mm fan .. then look at where the 105mm spaced holes for 120mm fans are in reference to sides / bottom / framework of case where 120mm fans fit but the 10+mm extra of 140mm fans will not. This isn't rocket science.









I build many systems a year and have used hundreds of TY-14x fans (140mm fans with 105mm mounting holes). I'm telling you these 140mm fans with 105mm mounting holes will not fit and line up with the 120mm fan mounting holes more times then they will. This is years of experience talking, not putting a 120mm fan and a 140mm fan with 105mm mounting holes on some sticks, setting them on your bed and taking a few pictures of them.

Try mounting them in 5 or 10 different cases instead of on sticks and you will find out I'm telling you the truth.


----------



## Blinky7

nothing is sticking more than 10mm out, look at the damn company schematic for gods sake if you dont believe me

http://www.cryorig.com/xf140_us.php

not to mention you even said the holes would not match, which is obviously already proven wrong


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blinky7*
> 
> nothing is sticking more than 10mm out, look at the damn company schematic for gods sake if you dont believe me
> 
> http://www.cryorig.com/xf140_us.php
> 
> not to mention you even said the holes would not match, which is obviously already proven wrong


Really?








Of course it's not more than 10mm. It is 10mm on th XF100 fans!! A 120mm fan is 20mm smaller than a 140mm fan.
That is 10mm on all four sides.
Many others are round on 2 sides and flat on the other two. The rounds side are more than 10mm bigger than 120mm fans.
Just look at your fans on sticks and you can see the 10mm on each side.


----------



## Blinky7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Just look at your fans on sticks and you can see the 10mm on each side.


exactly...thats why it will fit on a position designed for 140mm fans (even if it has to use the 120mm fan holes). nothing will stick out more to give u trouble. *** do u not understand? why do you stil think it will not fit?


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blinky7*
> 
> exactly...thats why it will fit on a position designed for 140mm fans (even if it has to use the 120mm fan holes). nothing will stick out more to give u trouble. *** do u not understand? why do you stil think it will not fit?


Try mounting them in the case and you will understand what I'm keep trying to tell you.


----------



## pez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blinky7*
> 
> exactly...thats why it will fit on a position designed for 140mm fans (even if it has to use the 120mm fan holes). nothing will stick out more to give u trouble. *** do u not understand? why do you stil think it will not fit?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Try mounting them in the case and you will understand what I'm keep trying to tell you.


I feel like there's some miscommunication here. You guys both agree that the mounting portion of the fans are the same, but I think what doyll is trying to point out is that the 120mm fan mount in the actual case may not be centered in relation to the 140mm fan mount in the case. I.e. if it's biased to the right or left side for clearance, then you will run into issues mounting the 120mm-keyed 140mm fan as the bezel/shroud of the fan would not sit flush with the case/mounting area.

Or maybe I'm misunderstanding the miscommunication altogether.

EDIT:

For the new mATX TG, the fan position actually does appear to be centered in relation to the 140mm mount....so maybe I'm misunderstanding something here







.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pez*
> 
> I feel like there's some miscommunication here. You guys both agree that the mounting portion of the fans are the same, but I think what doyll is trying to point out is that the 120mm fan mount in the actual case may not be centered in relation to the 140mm fan mount in the case. I.e. if it's biased to the right or left side for clearance, then you will run into issues mounting the 120mm-keyed 140mm fan as the bezel/shroud of the fan would not sit flush with the case/mounting area.
> 
> Or maybe I'm misunderstanding the miscommunication altogether.
> 
> EDIT:
> 
> For the new mATX TG, the fan position actually does appear to be centered in relation to the 140mm mount....so maybe I'm misunderstanding something here
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


That is it!
Back fan mounting will often work, but front, top and bottom often do not, exotically when trying to mount 2x 140mm fans with 105mm mount spacing

ozlay started out asking about using XF140 as exhaust which may work just fine. Then he said he would get 5 for his case. For example the top has fan mounting slots offset to one side, so 140mm fans wiht 105mm mount spacing would have 10mm of one side blocked ... and probably not clear the top cover latches on left side of fan mounting plate.


----------



## Blinky7

ok, now we are geting somewhere because this was driving me insane.

Yes of course if the 120/140 fan positions are not centered it will probably not work. This usually only applies for the top fan locations so that you can put push-pull radiafors without hitting the motherboard. Back and front should work fine


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blinky7*
> 
> ok, now we are geting somewhere because this was driving me insane.
> 
> Yes of course if the 120/140 fan positions are not centered it will probably not work. This usually only applies for the top fan locations so that you can put push-pull radiafors without hitting the motherboard. Back and front should work fine


What is different in multi-fan mounting in the top from front or bottom fan mounting?
In my experience they usually share the same basic mountng hole / slot layout.


----------



## pez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> That is it!
> Back fan mounting will often work, but front, top and bottom often do not, exotically when trying to mount 2x 140mm fans with 105mm mount spacing
> 
> ozlay started out asking about using XF140 as exhaust which may work just fine. Then he said he would get 5 for his case. For example the top has fan mounting slots offset to one side, so 140mm fans wiht 105mm mount spacing would have 10mm of one side blocked ... and probably not clear the top cover latches on left side of fan mounting plate.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Ah, yes for the top that would make for a difficult/bad time. Glad we all seem to be on the same page now







.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blinky7*
> 
> ok, now we are geting somewhere because this was driving me insane.
> 
> Yes of course if the 120/140 fan positions are not centered it will probably not work. This usually only applies for the top fan locations so that you can put push-pull radiafors without hitting the motherboard. Back and front should work fine


----------



## Blinky7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> What is different in multi-fan mounting in the top from front or bottom fan mounting?
> In my experience they usually share the same basic mountng hole / slot layout.


on the front there is no reason to have an offset mount as you dont have obstructions. For example look here at the P400 :
http://www.kitguru.net/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/P5010361.jpg

Like I said, only on the top they do this offset so that they can allow you to mount thicker radiators with more fans (maybe) while overlapping the motherboard (still if you dont have tall ram).
Doing this they can make the cases smaller in height. Personally I dont like this approach because overlaping the motherboard spoils the looks of the build...I would prefer to be at least 55mm top clearance for a 30mm rad and single 25mm fan.


----------



## levibaker88

I can say with certainty that the Cryorig XF140 will at least fit the rear fan position of the Evolv mATX as I had an XT140 in my Evolv ATX which has the same rear fan mounting as the mATX and the XT140 is the same as the XF140 but just the slim version.

Can't confirm the top or front mounting though.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blinky7*
> 
> on the front there is no reason to have an offset mount as you dont have obstructions. For example look here at the P400 :
> http://www.kitguru.net/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/P5010361.jpg
> 
> Like I said, only on the top they do this offset so that they can allow you to mount thicker radiators with more fans (maybe) while overlapping the motherboard (still if you dont have tall ram).
> Doing this they can make the cases smaller in height. Personally I dont like this approach because overlaping the motherboard spoils the looks of the build...I would prefer to be at least 55mm top clearance for a 30mm rad and single 25mm fan.


Cases usually have front and bottom fans mounted to center on mohterboard, not case .. just like the top.







Like I said before, try mounting them in the case you think they will fit into before you post up saying they will fit.
Your like give a 1011 error.

Like I said, try fitting XF140 fan into front and/or bottom of cases .. I'm betting you will see what I'm talking about.

Yeah, @levibaker88 you are corrrect about it fitting in back, but again why? The XF140 is not as good a fan as the stock case fans are.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> I'm still just baffled that someone wants to replace F140MP with XF140s.


I agree, makes no sense. Logic would be to replace the XF140 on cooler wiht F140HP_II .. which are PH-F140MP fan in rounded houseing with 105mm mounting holes.


----------



## ciarlatano

I'm still just baffled that someone wants to replace F140MP with XF140s.


----------



## pez

My guess is aesthetics. The same reason people still buy the Corsair SP fans







.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pez*
> 
> My guess is aesthetics. The same reason people still buy the Corsair SP fans
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


Yeah, or Thermalfake Rings.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pez*
> 
> My guess is aesthetics. The same reason people still buy the Corsair SP fans
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


Ooof. The XF140 are a world better than those. If you were talking about replacing SP's with XF140, it wouldn't even be a question.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Ooof. The XF140 are a world better than those. If you were talking about replacing SP's with XF140, it wouldn't even be a question.


I like the R1 and H5 coolers a lot, but not thier fans. Both coolers when in use in my systems had nicer sounding fans on them.








But some of us are spoiled rotten and have the best of the best fans to play with, so it would be stupid for us to not use what sounds better.


----------



## Blinky7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Cases usually have front and bottom fans mounted to center on mohterboard, not case .. just like the top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like I said before, try mounting them in the case you think they will fit into before you post up saying they will fit.
> Your like give a 1011 error.


This is simply NOT true. I think because once you tried to mount such a fan on top and failed you immediately drew the conclusion that it's this way all the times.
This offset only happens on the top (and maybe bottom but very few cases have fan locations on bottom anyway) due to the radiator thickness reason I already told you about.

I already showed you the phanteks P400 front fan rails which you failed to acknowledge. Now it's time to show you the Evolv matx front which is by the way the case the person that asked the question was interested in :


As you can see here too there is no offset and the XF140 will fit just fine. So please understand that the offset is not the rule, but the exception and only happens on the top in MOST (but not all, I can show you some cases that do not have offset on top, but I havent seen any that have offset on front, there might be 1/2)

So the final answer to the one asking, you can populate your Evolv mATX with XF140 on back and front, but not on top.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blinky7*
> 
> This is simply NOT true. I think because once you tried to mount such a fan on top and failed you immediately drew the conclusion that it's this way all the times.
> This offset only happens on the top (and maybe bottom but very few cases have fan locations on bottom anyway) due to the radiator thickness reason I already told you about.
> 
> I already showed you the phanteks P400 front fan rails which you failed to acknowledge. Now it's time to show you the Evolv matx front which is by the way the case the person that asked the question was interested in :
> 
> 
> As you can see here too there is no offset and the XF140 will fit just fine. So please understand that the offset is not the rule, but the exception and only happens on the top in MOST (but not all, I can show you some cases that do not have offset on top, but I havent seen any that have offset on front, there might be 1/2)
> 
> So the final answer to the one asking, you can populate your Evolv mATX with XF140 on back and front, but not on top.


So now you are calling me a lier.







Enough with your numpty posting.
I'm done trying to talk logic with you.

Besides, it's universally accepted that the XF140 is not as good a fan as stock case fans.


----------



## ozlay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Short answer is no, you cannot use XF140 fans.
> 
> Cryorig XF140 is 140mm but it has 105mm mounting hole spacing, same as 120mm fans. Case does have mounting holes for both 120 and 140mm fans, but not for 140mm fans with 105mm mounting hole spacing.
> 
> The real question in my mind is why would you want spend money on a fan that does not idle as low, makes more noise, moves less air and can't overcome airflow resistance as well as the stock case fans do?


Well then will a Phanteks PH-F140HP_WT 2 fit on the cryorig cooler? I just want all my fans to be the same manufacturer. Also should i get Phanteks PH-F140SP or Phanteks PH-F140XP or Phanteks PH-F140MP?

Well I am not using them on a rad so i don't think the MP is a good choice. Maybe ill go for the XP's. But the case comes with SP's no?

I will be replacing the stock fans with white fans. So it doesn't really matter what the stock fans are. If the XP's are better? I was going to paint the Cryorig fans white anyways. But buyin white fans makes more sense if I am going to replace they Cryorig fans.

Edit: edited many times because idk what im doing.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozlay*
> 
> Well then will a Phanteks PH-F140HP_WT 2 fit on the cryorig cooler?


Yes, with no problem.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozlay*
> 
> Well then will a Phanteks PH-F140HP_WT 2 fit on the cryorig cooler? I just want all my fans to be the same manufacturer. Also should i get
> Phanteks PH-F140SP or Phanteks PH-F140XP or Phanteks PH-F140MP
> ?
> 
> Well I am not using them on a rad so i don't think the MP is a good choice. Maybe ill go for the XP's. But the case comes with SP's no?
> 
> I will be replacing the stock fans with white fans. So it doesn't really matter what the stock fans are. If the XP's are better? I was going to paint the Cryorig fans white anyways. But buyin white fans makes more sense if I am going to replace they Cryorig fans.
> 
> Edit: edited many times because idk what im doing.


What ciarlatano said, PH-F140HP_II will fit on R1 Ultimate no problem.

I don't know what case fans your case has because Phanteks change case fans last year, but they never told us they were changing them and never give the new fans a model name or number. They originally used PH-F140SP fans for cases fans. From what I've been able to figure out they are using the same fan motor and housing with MP impeller.
PH-F140SP case fan as in case specifications .. . . Fans supplied in cases for 6 months or so come with fans looking like this.


----------



## OrangeRaptor

what i find kinda funny is the arguments over what fans are better. any normal person that would see these conversation would be so confused.


----------



## ozlay

Well its kinda hard to chose between SP's and XP's. I mean I probably won't use the PWM features of the XP's. But they do seem to go to a higher RPM.









Edit: NVM I misread the specs.

Ill get the SP's they are cheaper anyways. Now to decide on 2 or 3 PH-F140HP_II's.


----------



## Blinky7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> So now you are calling me a lier.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Enough with your numpty posting.
> I'm done trying to talk logic with you.
> 
> Besides, it's universally accepted that the XF140 is not as good a fan as stock case fans.


not calling u a liar.... Its you that pretended to be the expert from the beginning yet I dont see you commenting on the phanteks pictures I showed you...

Its not bad acceptin you are wrong sometimes. I do accept I was partly wrong when I initially replied in that I didnt take into account there are situatuons (like the top spots) where usually the fan wont fit...
I do my self-criticism, I just dont see you do yours.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozlay*
> 
> Well its kinda hard to chose between SP's and XP's. I mean I probably won't use the PWM features of the XP's. But they do seem to go to a higher RPM.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Edit: NVM I misread the specs.
> 
> Ill get the SP's they are cheaper anyways. Now to decide on 2 or 3 PH-F140HP_II's.


PH-F140SP is variable voltage version and PH-F140XP is PWM version.
PH-F140HP_II is round version of PH-F140MP. Same specs and performance.


----------



## guzzoline

Hey Guys!

I just joined the club, picked up an Enthoo Pro M TG. I had a quick question about the included fans though.

It came packaged with different fans, with MP style blades. Are these fans better than the previously included F140SPs? I also bought a PH-F140SP (to go along with what I thought would be a pair of included SPs!); would the SP for rear exhaust, and included unnamed fans as front intakes be optimal? Or am I better off getting a couple more PH-F140SPs for the front?


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *guzzoline*
> 
> Hey Guys!
> 
> I just joined the club, picked up an Enthoo Pro M TG. I had a quick question about the included fans though.
> 
> It came packaged with different fans, with MP style blades. Are these fans better than the previously included F140SPs? I also bought a PH-F140SP (to go along with what I thought would be a pair of included SPs!); would the SP for rear exhaust, and included unnamed fans as front intakes be optimal? Or am I better off getting a couple more PH-F140SPs for the front?


The included fans are essentially SP fans with MP blades. Use them as intake, as they are better at overcoming any resistance, and use the SP as exhaust.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *guzzoline*
> 
> Hey Guys!
> 
> I just joined the club, picked up an Enthoo Pro M TG. I had a quick question about the included fans though.
> 
> It came packaged with different fans, with MP style blades. Are these fans better than the previously included F140SPs? I also bought a PH-F140SP (to go along with what I thought would be a pair of included SPs!); would the SP for rear exhaust, and included unnamed fans as front intakes be optimal? Or am I better off getting a couple more PH-F140SPs for the front?


What ciarlatano said.









It's really to bad Phanteks is being so 'unprofessional' about this case fan change. They really should have given these MP impeller SP case fans a model number with specifications on website and on case boxes so we know what we are buying.









That said, these new fans do a better job of overcoming resistance then the SPs, so back exhaust vent is best place to put your Sp,


----------



## pez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> The included fans are essentially SP fans with MP blades. Use them as intake, as they are better at overcoming any resistance, and use the SP as exhaust.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> What ciarlatano said.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's really to bad Phanteks is being so 'unprofessional' about this case fan change. They really should have given these MP impeller SP case fans a model number with specifications on website and on case boxes so we know what we are buying.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That said, these new fans do a better job of overcoming resistance then the SPs, so back exhaust vent is best place to put your Sp,


Would it be worthwhile to swap the 140SPs in my GFs rig to 140MPs? Temps aren't an issue, so I imagine not, but curious what the overall opinion is.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pez*
> 
> Would it be worthwhile to swap the 140SPs in my GFs rig to 140MPs? Temps aren't an issue, so I imagine not, but curious what the overall opinion is.


For the slight difference I would not advise it. I like both SP and MP, but some people do not like the sound of PH-F140MP.


----------



## pez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> For the slight difference I would not advise it. I like both SP and MP, but some people do not like the sound of PH-F140MP.


Yeah, the 140SP at max fan speed isn't annoying or anything. I actually don't think it gets higher than my ambient noise level while she's gaming anyways







.


----------



## Melcar

Recently got the Enthoo Pro, but have been procrastinating and not done the swap yet. First impressions just by looking at it are good. Very pro looking compared to many modern cases out there. Bit small for a "full tower", but for the price this is better than any mid tower out there. So far the only disappointment is the laughably flimsy motherboard tray; my current HAF912 is a fricking tank in comparison. Hopefully all goes well when I swap in my parts.

Anyway, I'm deciding on fans. I have already decided on the layout (2 front intakes on front panel + two forward top intakes on the top panel). I want 140mm fans for this case, so I can't recycle the Scythes I have right now. Been thinking either Noctua or Phanteks, since I can get them through Amazon. Phanteks are easier to get and somewhat cheap, so I'm leaning towards the PH-F140MP. The other option are Noctuas. Mexicano Amazon only has the Industrial versions available right now with free shipping (I don't want to consider the Redux line). Do you think the 2000rpm versions would make good case fans?

Edit: Or the Swiftech Helix 140. Apparently importing them from PerformancePCs ends up being the cheapest option (just slightly).


----------



## SolidSnakex9

I just purchased a Evolv ATX to replace my old LianLi case. I'm receiving a EVGA CLC 280 and a EVGA GTX 1080ti hybrid soon and thinking of placing my CPU Rad in the front to draw in fresh air and my GPU rad in the rear to draw in fresh air as well and 2 140mm up top to exhaust. Would this be an ideal setup? And if so, would it be necessary "mod" the radiator bracket to restrict the air pocket as mentioned in this thread?


----------



## eXistencelies

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SolidSnakex9*
> 
> I just purchased a Evolv ATX to replace my old LianLi case. I'm receiving a EVGA CLC 280 and a EVGA GTX 1080ti hybrid soon and thinking of placing my CPU Rad in the front to draw in fresh air and my GPU rad in the rear to draw in fresh air as well and 2 140mm up top to exhaust. Would this be an ideal setup? And if so, would it be necessary "mod" the radiator bracket to restrict the air pocket as mentioned in this thread?


Seems very reasonable. I would actually mod the top case and cut a large rectangular hole in it so the heat will be pushed out a lot easier. Many have done the top case mod. Also yes, you can remove the tray bracket if you'd like, but you may have to drill some holes for the fans to mount to.


----------



## Zaen

Hello to all









I'm back with a question on Fan placement on my Enthoo pro. Still trying to optimize air circulation and remove some warmer air pockets i believe i have around the area of the HDD cages. Was browsing the manual yet again and i notice something that has been eluding me until now.. i can put 2x120mm in the HDD's????? really???

Has someone tried this? Did any of the HDD bays/cages needed to be removed? (i'm only using the lower one) or they both have to be in? Did it need extra holes drilled?

Another thing that has been on my mind is the PSU cover blocking air intake from the bottom 140mm. I know the cover is open on one side but doesn't that make most of the cool air stay near the PSU? Manual also says i could fit 2x120mm instead of the 1x140mm, that would make one fan completely blocked by the PSU cover but the 2nd one would be clear of obstructions but i don't see the room for 2x120mm on the bottom, or are my eyes just bad? xD

I will try to add some pics of what i have atm, tried a lot of times but they all get messy, either far way to catch all the system or i have to close up to individual components mid way they are never good or get all i want in the picture. I will try again and post what i get.









On a more weird subject, recently i have noticed that the LED's on my Phantek's fans i have on top and back as exhaust have been flickering, apparently no relation to fan speed. I mention this because i have them connected to the HUB that Phantek's supply with this case. Since it get's a PWM signal from one of the mobos fan pin (according to ASUS they are all PWM) i never connected the 12V sata cable Phantek's mentions i would need to plug in if it wasn't a PWM pin on the mobo.

Should i connect the SATA 12V anyway? The hub only has 3x140mm Phantek's (check rig sig) connected to it so i don't think i have been pushing the hub to hard/hot. Any advice on this?

Thx for the attention o/


----------



## dlewbell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zaen*
> 
> Hello to all
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm back with a question on Fan placement on my Enthoo pro. Still trying to optimize air circulation and remove some warmer air pockets i believe i have around the area of the HDD cages. Was browsing the manual yet again and i notice something that has been eluding me until now.. i can put 2x120mm in the HDD's????? really???
> 
> Has someone tried this? Did any of the HDD bays/cages needed to be removed? (i'm only using the lower one) or they both have to be in? Did it need extra holes drilled?
> 
> Another thing that has been on my mind is the PSU cover blocking air intake from the bottom 140mm. I know the cover is open on one side but doesn't that make most of the cool air stay near the PSU? Manual also says i could fit 2x120mm instead of the 1x140mm, that would make one fan completely blocked by the PSU cover but the 2nd one would be clear of obstructions but i don't see the room for 2x120mm on the bottom, or are my eyes just bad? xD
> 
> I will try to add some pics of what i have atm, tried a lot of times but they all get messy, either far way to catch all the system or i have to close up to individual components mid way they are never good or get all i want in the picture. I will try again and post what i get.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On a more weird subject, recently i have noticed that the LED's on my Phantek's fans i have on top and back as exhaust have been flickering, apparently no relation to fan speed. I mention this because i have them connected to the HUB that Phantek's supply with this case. Since it get's a PWM signal from one of the mobos fan pin (according to ASUS they are all PWM) i never connected the 12V sata cable Phantek's mentions i would need to plug in if it wasn't a PWM pin on the mobo.
> 
> Should i connect the SATA 12V anyway? The hub only has 3x140mm Phantek's (check rig sig) connected to it so i don't think i have been pushing the hub to hard/hot. Any advice on this?
> 
> Thx for the attention o/


Yes, you can mount a 120mm to the back side of each HDD cage. They have threaded holes. You may have screws that will work in the accessory box that came with the case. The HDD bays need to be in place to mount the fans. The fans have to be removed before you can remove the HDD cages again.


The PSU cover will make a 140mm fan in the default bottom location useless. Pick one or the other, but not both. If you want both, you can cheat things a bit & mount a 140mm fan further forward as shown in the following picture, but you'll need longer bolts with nuts, as the regular self tapping screws are too large. Of course, this only fits if you remove the lower HDD cage and the bracket underneath. You're likely better off just removing the upper HDD cage, not using a bottom intake, but allowing direct airflow from the front intake above the HDD cage. The only reason I didn't do this is because my original PSU didn't have enough (or long enough) cables to make everything work with only the lower HDD cage.


Plug in the SATA 12V connector for your fan hub. It is designed to work with a PWM signal and external power simultaneously. You risk damaging your motherboard header by powering too many fans just with it. 3 fans may or may not be OK as you have them. I don't know, but I suspect this could fix your flickering issue as well.


----------



## Zaen

@dlewbell

Wow that was quick & helpful







Rep+ m8









I noticed the holes on the side of the HDD, they actually seem'd more appropriate for a custom waterloop , only now i see they fit 120mm fans, and i have 2 noctuas gathering dust that i was going to use for a push pull for my H100i but i'm probably going for air cooling soonish since this watercooler seems to be starting to get warmer and louder by the month (comparing to last summer) :s

So if i understood you right i need to have the cages in place if i want to place fans there but if i want to put the fans on the bottom i have to remove them, at least the bottom cage. Probably i will try the first option for starters and if that doesn't help removing warm air bellow the watercooler i will switch it and add more intake from the bottom.

Hope i haven't been pulling to much juice from the mobo header that would also explain the LED's flickering, but worse effects if it's going bad. I will do 2 things to see what is failing, the header or the hub, I still have 1 free header on the mobo so i will connect the 12V sata for a week or until i see flickering, then i will disconnect the 12V sata and connect the hub to the other header.

Thx on the info was very helpful, truly helpful


----------



## Rainmaker91

So... I have a quick question to those of you with Enthoo Primos, does removing the drive bay impact stability significantly when having a top mounted radiator? I'm contemplating completely removing mine, and it struck me that it may significantly impact the stability of the case when having a large radiator mounted in the top. I can always build some brackets to increase stability, but I curious if it's going to be needed or not.


----------



## nycgtr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> So... I have a quick question to those of you with Enthoo Primos, does removing the drive bay impact stability significantly when having a top mounted radiator? I'm contemplating completely removing mine, and it struck me that it may significantly impact the stability of the case when having a large radiator mounted in the top. I can always build some brackets to increase stability, but I curious if it's going to be needed or not.


Not that I can tell. I yanked mine out. The frame is pretty sturdy without that piece. It seems as if phanteks made it removable then decide to rivet half of it in.


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nycgtr*
> 
> Not that I can tell. I yanked mine out. The frame is pretty sturdy without that piece. It seems as if phanteks made it removable then decide to rivet half of it in.


hmm... I hope I can just remove it without worrying then, though the raditator, fans and liquid does add a massive 4-5kg to the top of the case... I'll check to see what I can do about it, but thanks for taking the time to answer


----------



## nycgtr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> hmm... I hope I can just remove it without worrying then, though the raditator, fans and liquid does add a massive 4-5kg to the top of the case... I'll check to see what I can do about it, but thanks for taking the time to answer


You can always just put it back in with screws and nuts after you remove the 8 or so rivets. I am putting a rad on top as well without that middle section. You can always use a steel plate to cover up the back missing portion and help give it some strength if you think it's necessary.


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nycgtr*
> 
> You can always just put it back in with screws and nuts after you remove the 8 or so rivets. I am putting a rad on top as well without that middle section. You can always use a steel plate to cover up the back missing portion and help give it some strength if you think it's necessary.


True... I actually have the necessary tapping tools and all that to if I don't want to use nuts, and I have a large piece of scrap aluminium that I could use as a cover plate instead of the acrylic that I had planned on using. I'll have to see what I do when I got to that point, I'm putting in an order with MNPCtech for that gorgeous plexi side panel now though.


----------



## nycgtr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> True... I actually have the necessary tapping tools and all that to if I don't want to use nuts, and I have a large piece of scrap aluminium that I could use as a cover plate instead of the acrylic that I had planned on using. I'll have to see what I do when I got to that point, I'm putting in an order with MNPCtech for that gorgeous plexi side panel now though.


I am cutting my own window ATM. If it fails I will order from them as well. I would prefer to have the door edges to cover the front 480 and bottom rad so it looks for clean for the look I'm going for.


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nycgtr*
> 
> I am cutting my own window ATM. If it fails I will order from them as well. I would prefer to have the door edges to cover the front 480 and bottom rad so it looks for clean for the look I'm going for.


I did think of doing that to, but I'm not that steady on my hands and the raw materials will set me back about half the cost of actually just ordering it. I do have quite a bit of 3mm acrylic that I will try to cut to size for some interesting fan grills, but I think that will come later.

Edit: so... shipping was way high over the Atlantic though. 80USD just for that... oh well, hope it lives up to the expectations.


----------



## Benny89

I have moved my H105 AIO cooler from top to the front. Bought 4x Corsair ML120 Pro Premium (no LED version) and made push-pull fonr config.

On top I got 3x Corsair SP120 PWM Performance fans.

Results:

GPU Temp drop 2C.

CPU temp droped 10-14C !!! Like WOW! From 72-76 to 58-61 on load playing BF1

I highly recommend having AIO cooler in front on *Phanteks Envolv ATX Tempered Glass case*. Huge difference.

And I can really recommend ML120 fans. Very good fans.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benny89*
> 
> I have moved my H105 AIO cooler from top to the front. Bought 4x Corsair ML120 Pro Premium (no LED version) and made push-pull fonr config.
> 
> On top I got 3x Corsair SP120 PWM Performance fans.
> 
> Results:
> 
> GPU Temp drop 2C.
> 
> CPU temp droped 10-14C !!! Like WOW! From 72-76 to 58-61 on load playing BF1
> 
> I highly recommend having AIO cooler in front on *Phanteks Envolv ATX Tempered Glass case*. Huge difference.
> 
> And I can really recommend ML120 fans. Very good fans.


Seems you got new fans, put them on H105 and moved it to front and are getting 10-14c lower temps. But did you check what the CPU temperatures are with the new M120 fans and H105 in top position?

Were all the unused holes in radiator mounting tray blocked off when H105 was in the top?


----------



## Benny89

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Seems you got new fans, put them on H105 and moved it to front and are getting 10-14c lower temps. But did you check what the CPU temperatures are with the new M120 fans and H105 in top position?


Yes, 3C difference on top with just push compare to SP120 with just push.

There would be not that much difference between SP120 and ML120 alone. They have same RPM (50 difference) and only 13 CFM difference.

10-14C would not come alone from fans, lol. That is because cooler now takes fresh air from outside of case instead of getting hot air from GPU and other components.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benny89*
> 
> And I can really recommend ML120 fans. Very good fans.


Well....since you were coming from SP120s......it would be a little hard _not_ to recommend _any_ other fan you switched to. But being better than awful does not necessarily make something "good". In this case, the ML120 is a good fan, though.


----------



## Benny89

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Well....since you were coming from SP120s......it would be a little hard _not_ to recommend _any_ other fan you switched to. But being better than awful does not necessarily make something "good". In this case, the ML120 is a good fan, though.


Well, I have to think about look too







If not for look I would just slap Gentle Typhoon everywhere


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benny89*
> 
> Yes, 3C difference on top with just push compare to SP120 with just push.
> 
> There would be not that much difference between SP120 and ML120 alone. They have same RPM (50 difference) and only 13 CFM difference.
> 
> 10-14C would not come alone from fans, lol. That is because cooler now takes fresh air from outside of case instead of getting hot air from GPU and other components.


We have no idea what CPU temp would be with same push / pull on radiator in top position compared to it being in front position, so we have no real comparison of what top versus front would be.

And as ciarlatano said, changing from SP120 fans to almost any good fan will be a big improvement.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benny89*
> 
> Well, I have to think about look too
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If not for look I would just slap Gentle Typhoon everywhere


Well......looks are *very* subjective......very, very subjective. I mean incredibly subjective.









yes that was a nice way of saying I think Corsair fans are, shall we say, "not particularly attractive"


----------



## Benny89

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Well......looks are *very* subjective......very, very subjective. I mean incredibly subjective.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> yes that was a nice way of saying I think Corsair fans are, shall we say, "not particularly attractive"


That is why each to his own







. There not many 'non-LED" good black-red fans out there. And sadly I am NOT a fan of christmas tree inside case







. It think it looks "girlish".

But again- look is subjective


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benny89*
> 
> That is why each to his own
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . There not many 'non-LED" good black-red fans out there. And sadly I am NOT a fan of christmas tree inside case
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . It think it looks "girlish".
> 
> But again- look is subjective


No doubt. The only good black and red fan that I can think of is the Phobya eLoop. And even that is clear red. The DeepCool black/red has gotten some praise, but I haven't tested them, so I can't say for sure.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Well......looks are *very* subjective......very, very subjective. I mean incredibly subjective.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> yes that was a nice way of saying I think Corsair fans are, shall we say, "not particularly attractive"


Only if you see them.










But when if we have to pull our case out from under desk or from along side of it most things loss the subjectivity .. as well as how much free money we are given to spend on our systems.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> No doubt. The only good black and red fan that I can think of is the Phobya eLoop. And even that is clear red. The DeepCool black/red has gotten some praise, but I haven't tested them, so I can't say for sure.


Thermalright have the TY-149 in their line, but they use 120mm mounting holes.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Only if you see them.


I'm not that hard opf hearing yet......I would still know they are there.....









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Thermalright have the TY-149 in their line, but they use 120mm mounting holes.


Won't work on an H105, which is where they would need to be used. Well.....you _could_ change the cooler......


----------



## Zaen

EDIT: Got it working properly again. Don't ask me why but Fan hub seems to mess all other fans now, don't understand exactly the fixed rpm, low and high fixed, mainly low. I know electronics but don't have the proper tools to run some tests on the fan hub.

@dlewbell and any one with input to share

Well i connected the sata 12v to the fan hub and it puts the fans to max.. always.. don't need that noise.

Buuut since then i have problems with all the fans. No fan, on the hub or on a mobo header works properly, they stay in a minimum setting whatever i set in BIOS.

My H100igtx if controlled by corsair link would stay fixed in what i set it, silent, default, manual it wouldn't speed up when cpu got hot and i was seeing very high temps so i took that out before running anymore testing and put in a air cooler for the passive cooling (Cryorig H7 - 120mm fan) and started disconnecting fans and see the results, then went to fan controller software, then reset BIOS and loaded default settings, nothing so far has worked. Fans will stay at a fixed rpm, with a small % of rpm increase for ex: 756 to 780 rpm or 312 to 376.

I'm starting to run out of options. Mobo? PSU? windows? BIOS? Starting to take down walls with my head here. Already have to get new BIOS and re-do my OC after this is fixed and by now i'm afraid it's the mobo and if so i will be hanging dry for months.

ofc i'm posting this in ASUS Z170 mobo's thread also to see what they have to say about it.

Thx for any input in advance


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> I'm not that hard opf hearing yet......I would still know they are there.....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Won't work on an H105, which is where they would need to be used. Well.....you _could_ change the cooler......


Have you seen the new TY-127?
Fan Dimension : L130 mm x H120 mm x W25 mm
Fan Weight : 130g
Fan Speed : 300 - 1300 rpm (PWM)
Sound Level : 21 - 33 dB(A)
Airflow : 12.88 - 55.81 CFM
  
They use it on the Macho 120 coolers


----------



## Thoth420

Hey all









I am currently putting together a Ryzen build for a friend and he chose the Phanteks Enthoo Evolv with the tempered glass panels. This is the first time I have ever built out of a Phanteks chassis and I have to say the build quality and amount of room in the back channel are really impressive. The case overall feels well worth the price tag and I found it very easy to work in with one glaring exception:
The top radiator tray ruined my plans of mounting the fans above the radiator for his H100i in pull. I set the rad up as push and mounted it to the tray but it blocks off the top section of the motherboard(including the Q Code LED)....frankly it looks bad. I have done some digging around the web and apparently the only way to mount the fans above the rad is to mod the case which I do not possess the skillset for.

This is a shame because until I hit the issue with the top rad I was considering this case for my next build with a custom loop but I can't see that being realistic with a top rad. I tend to do and always have a front and top rad config. Has anyone built a dual rad loop that in this case without modding(or basic modding I guess I can handle) that looks aesthecially pleasing? If so please share some images or links to build logs. Front and a rear 120 or 140 rad would be ok with me as I only cool the CPU and a single GPU as long as it looks good.

I opted to move the rad for this build to the front since he is not doing a loop but this case was near perfect with the xres mounting holes and a ton of space...except for in the top. I saw they make a bigger chassis called the elite but it doesn't have the same really awesome PSU sheathe of the Enthoo Evolv.

Sorry for the rant....long story short: great case with one major gimp makes me sad
I still would strongly recommend them after this experience with the caveat about the top tray. There is so much space above it too that is really wasted.


----------



## Melcar

Question. Can the PH-140MP be mounted horizontally?


----------



## PureBlackFire




----------



## w-moffatt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PureBlackFire*


yesss!! after buying my first ever phanteks case on my last build. I'm very keen to see where this company goes.


----------



## springs113

Looks like a P400 revision.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Melcar*
> 
> Question. Can the PH-140MP be mounted horizontally?


Yes. But, I have heard people say that they got some odd noises this way. I have done about a dozen or so horizontal on rads and as exhaust and never had any noise issues.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Yes. But, I have heard people say that they got some odd noises this way. I have done about a dozen or so horizontal on rads and as exhaust and never had any noise issues.


People "got odd noises" with almost all if not all fans in some locations be they horizontal or vertical. It's very hard to tell if it's the fan orientation or fan interaction with grill, radiator fins, etc. For example I remember ,Vardar fan owners had harmonic problems with some grill and radiator combinations.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> People "got odd noises" with almost all if not all fans in some locations be they horizontal or vertical. It's very hard to tell if it's the fan orientation or fan interaction with grill, radiator fins, etc. For example I remember ,Vardar fan owners had harmonic problems with some grill and radiator combinations.


I'm speaking specifically of the F140MP, and of reports from people who have used them with no issues in vertical mounts, but had odd noises with the same fan in horizontal mounts. As I said, i have never experienced the issue.


----------



## Melcar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Yes. But, I have heard people say that they got some odd noises this way. I have done about a dozen or so horizontal on rads and as exhaust and never had any noise issues.


My Scythes are ticking like crazy now that I have them on the top panel of my Enthoo Pro. Was a momentary thing anyway since I was planing to get new fans. Choosing between Phanteks and Noctua. Right now Amazon has the PH-F140MP for cheap.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> I'm speaking specifically of the F140MP, and of reports from people who have used them with no issues in vertical mounts, but had odd noises with the same fan in horizontal mounts. As I said, i have never experienced the issue.


I was only trying to point out there is more to the story than vertical and horizontal position that can cause the F140MP to make noise in horizontal versus vertical orientation.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Melcar*
> 
> My Scythes are ticking like crazy now that I have them on the top panel of my Enthoo Pro. Was a momentary thing anyway since I was planing to get new fans. Choosing between Phanteks and Noctua. Right now Amazon has the PH-F140MP for cheap.


Have you tried oiling your Scythes? It often helps.


----------



## DyndaS

How is looking clereance for 360 radiator at the top for Enthoo Pro M TG? I mean ram height and rear fan.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DyndaS*
> 
> How is looking clereance for 360 radiator at the top for Enthoo Pro M TG? I mean ram height and rear fan.


With the optical drive removed, you have no issues. 120mm based rads are offset away from the MB, so RAM clearance is not an issue. However, rads thicker than 30mm will wind up covering quite a bit of the MB. A 60mm thick rad with a set of fans will cover about half of the CPU socket....which is not very attractive, and makes tube routing to the CPU block a nightmare.


----------



## DyndaS

I'm thinking about this case. Though about Nemesis GTS 360 or Coolgate GC 360. Coolgate have low fpi, so less problem with dust, but it's 60mm rad so like you say probably will cover socket. But anyway... how high can ram be with it? G.Skill TridentX with red radiators are quite high.


----------



## Melcar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Have you tried oiling your Scythes? It often helps.


Will try, but I'm going to change them anyway and leave the Scythes on the HAF912 I just replaced with this Enthoo. They only do it when horizontally mounted.
I was thinking either getting four PH-140MPs and set them up as intakes, or get two 2000rpm NF-A14s and re-purpose the NF-A15s from my NH-D15 as additional intakes.


----------



## nycgtr

Primo in progress.





Yes I am aware of the mesh


----------



## Blinky7

As a potential Enthoo Pro M TG buyer, may I ask the case owners if there is any way to mount fans on top of the tray that is on the ceiling of the case?
I want to know if I can use a rad there and have fans on top of the tray sandwitching the tray, or even if there is a way to totaly remove the tray and mount the fans on the top grill.

Please dont tell me there is no need to do that because I want this not for compatibility reasons, but for visual ones, I don't like the fans/rad covering the top of the motherboard when looking at it from the window (and it's so frustrating that I can find almost no case that has 55mm clearance on top for a fan and a slim rad)

I am between this case and the Be quiet Dark Base 900 Pro that is superior in every front, but also twice the cost...


----------



## Zaen

Need some advice.

My Phantek's fan hub seems to be causing havoc on all my fans and i had to disconnect it, took me literally 20h of testing to pin point it to the fan hub 100% sure. So i will need a new fan controller, since i don't want to push mobo fan headers with some of the LED fans i have (i know, i know those headers can give 1A and most fans only use a small percentage of that) plus i intend to switch my current 200mm front intake fan to 2x140mm and i'm using all mobo headers atm and i still have fans not connected since the hub went nuts on me.

So what i need to decide is what fan controller/hub to get, one option is to get a new Phantek's hub, i have a store near me selling the boxed version for €16,50 (about $17). The other option that i'm tempted on is getting the Thermaltake Commander FT Touchscreen Fan Controller that can control 5 fans for €41,90 (about $43). I know the Phantek's hub offers more fan connections but i must admit the Commander FT offers more control and will probably look great in the front of my Enthoo Pro.

All opinions all appreciated, so i can make my mind up xD thx everyone o/


----------



## OrangeRaptor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blinky7*
> 
> As a potential Enthoo Pro M TG buyer, may I ask the case owners if there is any way to mount fans on top of the tray that is on the ceiling of the case?
> I want to know if I can use a rad there and have fans on top of the tray sandwitching the tray, or even if there is a way to totaly remove the tray and mount the fans on the top grill.
> 
> Please dont tell me there is no need to do that because I want this not for compatibility reasons, but for visual ones, I don't like the fans/rad covering the top of the motherboard when looking at it from the window (and it's so frustrating that I can find almost no case that has 55mm clearance on top for a fan and a slim rad)
> 
> I am between this case and the Be quiet Dark Base 900 Pro that is superior in every front, but also twice the cost...


no you cant put fans on top.


----------



## dlewbell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zaen*
> 
> Need some advice.
> 
> My Phantek's fan hub seems to be causing havoc on all my fans and i had to disconnect it, took me literally 20h of testing to pin point it to the fan hub 100% sure. So i will need a new fan controller, since i don't want to push mobo fan headers with some of the LED fans i have (i know, i know those headers can give 1A and most fans only use a small percentage of that) plus i intend to switch my current 200mm front intake fan to 2x140mm and i'm using all mobo headers atm and i still have fans not connected since the hub went nuts on me.
> 
> So what i need to decide is what fan controller/hub to get, one option is to get a new Phantek's hub, i have a store near me selling the boxed version for €16,50 (about $17). The other option that i'm tempted on is getting the Thermaltake Commander FT Touchscreen Fan Controller that can control 5 fans for €41,90 (about $43). I know the Phantek's hub offers more fan connections but i must admit the Commander FT offers more control and will probably look great in the front of my Enthoo Pro.
> 
> All opinions all appreciated, so i can make my mind up xD thx everyone o/


Just to check first, what fan header did you have the Phanteks hub connected to? It only works properly on a true PWM hub. In the case of your motherboard, that's the CPU_FAN & CPU_OPT headers. The others are only voltage controlled. If you did have it in a PWM header, are you certain that the header was actually set to PWM control in BIOS? Some motherboards will allow you to choose whether you use PWM or voltage control. I don't know enough about your motherboard to say whether that's the case. From what you've described, it sounds like your Phanteks hub is not actually receiving a PWM signal. If you have verified that the header is not the issue, it could be one of 2 issues. Either you don't have enough load on the Phanteks hub, or it's broken as you suspect. Doyll did a review on the Phanteks hub, & found that it had a better range of speed control with more fans on it (to a point). If you're seeing only small speed changes, this may be the issue. If you have zero speed change, it likely is broken. How long have you had your case? If it's within warranty, I'd suggest contacting Phanteks. They're very helpful, & would likely send you a replacement hub if that's what you need.


----------



## Zaen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dlewbell*
> 
> Just to check first, what fan header did you have the Phanteks hub connected to? It only works properly on a true PWM hub. In the case of your motherboard, that's the CPU_FAN & CPU_OPT headers. The others are only voltage controlled. If you did have it in a PWM header, are you certain that the header was actually set to PWM control in BIOS? Some motherboards will allow you to choose whether you use PWM or voltage control. I don't know enough about your motherboard to say whether that's the case. From what you've described, it sounds like your Phanteks hub is not actually receiving a PWM signal. If you have verified that the header is not the issue, it could be one of 2 issues. Either you don't have enough load on the Phanteks hub, or it's broken as you suspect. Doyll did a review on the Phanteks hub, & found that it had a better range of speed control with more fans on it (to a point). If you're seeing only small speed changes, this may be the issue. If you have zero speed change, it likely is broken. How long have you had your case? If it's within warranty, I'd suggest contacting Phanteks. They're very helpful, & would likely send you a replacement hub if that's what you need.


Yeah it was on the Chassis_1 but it has a true PWM signal, all my headers do, config was done by hand in BIOS after a 1st auto-tunning from the BIOS so it knew the max and min pwr duty cycles.

According to Phantek's manual if i have a PWM signal from the mobo header and plug in the 12v sata all fans go to max rpm and aren't controllable (like if you connect fans direct by a molex to the PSU, i would do that if the fans were less noisy at full rpm) and that was exactly what happened.
Did exhaustive testing on it and when i connected the hub to any header, it would induce a pwm signal that was overriding BIOS settings, don't understand exactly how but that is the short story. I had a total of 3 fans, all 140mm, all Phantek's. one came with the case the other were LED versions of that, and it was those LED fans that attracted my attention when i notice flickering on them without rpm changes.
Tried other headers on the fan hub and mobo but the problem always came up, all fans stayed at a almost fixed rpm, worse part was i had to reset BIOS everytime after i disconnect the fan hub to have the other fans working properly with CPU temp.

Don't know if i will use Phantek's customer service, this is the second electric issue i have with this case, 1st was i can't use the mic plug in in the front of the case because it starts buzzing incredibly high on my headphones and the pwr button led turns off... obviously a crossed wired somewhere in the front, i have the know how but not the tools to detect and fix the problem. Same thing with the Fan hub i have the technical knowledge but not the tools. Also not sure how is Phantek's support in the EU but i guess it shouldn't be a problem.

I'm very tempted in getting a front panel fan controller like this one http://www.tweaktown.com/reviews/7220/thermaltake-commander-ft-touchscreen-fan-controller-review/index5.html offers more control but less fan headers then the hub, also for less then €20 i can get the boxed version of the Phantek's hub in a store in my city, same were i buy almost everything PC related.

It aches my heart to see that bulging air cooler were my H100i sat, but i'm taking the opportunity and going to clean the radiator out. Pretty dirty with smoke resin and some dust between the fans and rad in just 1 and a half years.


----------



## pez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PureBlackFire*


Oh boy oh boy oh boy. But knowing their random release dates, we might see things announced there around Christmas time







.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Melcar*
> 
> Question. Can the PH-140MP be mounted horizontally?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> People "got odd noises" with almost all if not all fans in some locations be they horizontal or vertical. It's very hard to tell if it's the fan orientation or fan interaction with grill, radiator fins, etc. For example I remember ,Vardar fan owners had harmonic problems with some grill and radiator combinations.


F120MP in my case, but same motor I assume. I only get noise from my fan being extremely close to the GPU, but it's very obviously noise created by turbulence and not by the motor.


----------



## OrangeRaptor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PureBlackFire*


Oh boy. Cant wait to see what they have in store for us.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *w-moffatt*
> 
> yesss!! after buying my first ever phanteks case on my last build. I'm very keen to see where this company goes.


I know right. My Enthoo Pro M might not have the best build quality but the amount of features and the layout has given me trust in the name. I love pretty much everything about the Pro M. I built a system for a friend in a NZXT S340 and I didnt really like it too much. The build quality was amazing but the cable management and features compared to my Pro M weren't up to par.


----------



## smithydan

Looks like Project 217 they showed at CES


----------



## Testing12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smithydan*
> 
> Looks like Project 217 they showed at CES


Now that I look at some of the YouTube coverage of the 217, I have to agree with you 100%.


----------



## PureBlackFire

sounds about right.


----------



## pez

Oh right. I was very curious about the smaller version of that case, though it still looked rather large for a potential ITX design.


----------



## kevindd992002

What's Project 217?


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> What's Project 217?


What is Google?


----------



## Zaen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> What's Project 217?


From hardwarecanuks, brief explanation. Basically was/is Phantek's project to make a small case. How small was the projects goal i think.


----------



## dlewbell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zaen*
> 
> Yeah it was on the Chassis_1 but it has a true PWM signal, all my headers do, config was done by hand in BIOS after a 1st auto-tunning from the BIOS so it knew the max and min pwr duty cycles.
> 
> According to Phantek's manual if i have a PWM signal from the mobo header and plug in the 12v sata all fans go to max rpm and aren't controllable (like if you connect fans direct by a molex to the PSU, i would do that if the fans were less noisy at full rpm) and that was exactly what happened.
> Did exhaustive testing on it and when i connected the hub to any header, it would induce a pwm signal that was overriding BIOS settings, don't understand exactly how but that is the short story. I had a total of 3 fans, all 140mm, all Phantek's. one came with the case the other were LED versions of that, and it was those LED fans that attracted my attention when i notice flickering on them without rpm changes.
> Tried other headers on the fan hub and mobo but the problem always came up, all fans stayed at a almost fixed rpm, worse part was i had to reset BIOS everytime after i disconnect the fan hub to have the other fans working properly with CPU temp.
> 
> Don't know if i will use Phantek's customer service, this is the second electric issue i have with this case, 1st was i can't use the mic plug in in the front of the case because it starts buzzing incredibly high on my headphones and the pwr button led turns off... obviously a crossed wired somewhere in the front, i have the know how but not the tools to detect and fix the problem. Same thing with the Fan hub i have the technical knowledge but not the tools. Also not sure how is Phantek's support in the EU but i guess it shouldn't be a problem.
> 
> I'm very tempted in getting a front panel fan controller like this one http://www.tweaktown.com/reviews/7220/thermaltake-commander-ft-touchscreen-fan-controller-review/index5.html offers more control but less fan headers then the hub, also for less then €20 i can get the boxed version of the Phantek's hub in a store in my city, same were i buy almost everything PC related.
> 
> It aches my heart to see that bulging air cooler were my H100i sat, but i'm taking the opportunity and going to clean the radiator out. Pretty dirty with smoke resin and some dust between the fans and rad in just 1 and a half years.


I believe you are misreading the instructions for the Phanteks PWM Hub. It is supposed to function correctly with a PWM signal & the 12V power connected. If you instead use a voltage control signal, you can either leave the 12V power disconnected & get functioning voltage control (fully powered by header) or connect the 12V power, & only run at full speed. This is why I stated that you're either not getting a true PWM signal, not putting enough load on it (per Doyll's testing) or have a bad hub.


Spoiler: Expand for Full Instructions from Phanteks



The PWM hub functions optimally when modulated by a PWM signal from the motherboard, which will allow the greatest control range. However, not all 4-pin motherboard connectors implement the PWM signal modulation.

Connecting the 4-pin to CPU_FAN
For full PWM functionality, Phanteks' PWM hub requires users to connect the 4-pin connector to the "CPU_Fan" connector of the motherboard, because all motherboard manufacturers implements a PWM signal modulation on this connector. Connect the SATA 12V power to power the PWM hub. Not all motherboards have their CPU_Fan connector set on PWM signal modulation by default. Please consult your motherboard documentation for this matter.

Connecting the 4-pin to other 4-pin header (besides the CPU_Fan)
Other 4-pin connectors can be found on modern motherboards besides the "CPU_Fan" connector (e.g. "CPU_Fan2", "CHA_Fan", "OPT_Fan"), however not all motherboard manufacturers implement a true PWM signal modulation onto these connectors. These type of 4-pin connectors modulate the RPM by voltage, which has a smaller control range compared to modulation by true PWM signal.

The 12V SATA power cable can not be used to power the PWM hub if connecting to these types of 4-pin connectors, due to the interference with the RPM regulation by voltage (resulting in the fans running on full RPM). The PWM hub will draw its power from the 4-pin connector, which is limited to a total device consuming 30W in total.

Important Note:
1 motherboard connector can only read 1 RPM signal. Therefore, the motherboard will only read the RPM signal from 1 device connected to Fan 1. The RPM form all other devices will be regulated according to FAN 1. Y-splitter should not be connected to FAN 1.


According to the ASUS Z170 Pro Gaming manual on page 1-21, it does not offer PWM control for the 3 CHA_FAN headers. You can tell because CPU_FAN & CPU_OPT show their 4th pins as CPU FAN PWM, whereas the CHA_FAN headers list it as +5V, which means it's essentially a dummy pin. The fact that you said you tried the hub on the CPU_FAN header as well makes me think that you are still having issues with the hub, but you can't assume that a 4-pin header is a PWM header.

If you do decide to buy a manual fan controller for your optical bay, consider the Reeven Four Eyes Touch (RFC-03) if it's available in your area. I'm using one, & I'm very happy with it. It's well made, easy to use, & easy to read from a distance as long as you pick one of the brighter colors. If you want more of my thoughts, I left a review on Newegg that covers it pretty well.


----------



## Zaen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dlewbell*
> 
> I believe you are misreading the instructions for the Phanteks PWM Hub. It is supposed to function correctly with a PWM signal & the 12V power connected. If you instead use a voltage control signal, you can either leave the 12V power disconnected & get functioning voltage control (fully powered by header) or connect the 12V power, & only run at full speed. This is why I stated that you're either not getting a true PWM signal, not putting enough load on it (per Doyll's testing) or have a bad hub.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Expand for Full Instructions from Phanteks
> 
> 
> 
> The PWM hub functions optimally when modulated by a PWM signal from the motherboard, which will allow the greatest control range. However, not all 4-pin motherboard connectors implement the PWM signal modulation.
> 
> Connecting the 4-pin to CPU_FAN
> For full PWM functionality, Phanteks' PWM hub requires users to connect the 4-pin connector to the "CPU_Fan" connector of the motherboard, because all motherboard manufacturers implements a PWM signal modulation on this connector. Connect the SATA 12V power to power the PWM hub. Not all motherboards have their CPU_Fan connector set on PWM signal modulation by default. Please consult your motherboard documentation for this matter.
> 
> Connecting the 4-pin to other 4-pin header (besides the CPU_Fan)
> Other 4-pin connectors can be found on modern motherboards besides the "CPU_Fan" connector (e.g. "CPU_Fan2", "CHA_Fan", "OPT_Fan"), however not all motherboard manufacturers implement a true PWM signal modulation onto these connectors. These type of 4-pin connectors modulate the RPM by voltage, which has a smaller control range compared to modulation by true PWM signal.
> 
> The 12V SATA power cable can not be used to power the PWM hub if connecting to these types of 4-pin connectors, due to the interference with the RPM regulation by voltage (resulting in the fans running on full RPM). The PWM hub will draw its power from the 4-pin connector, which is limited to a total device consuming 30W in total.
> 
> Important Note:
> 1 motherboard connector can only read 1 RPM signal. Therefore, the motherboard will only read the RPM signal from 1 device connected to Fan 1. The RPM form all other devices will be regulated according to FAN 1. Y-splitter should not be connected to FAN 1.
> 
> 
> According to the ASUS Z170 Pro Gaming manual on page 1-21, it does not offer PWM control for the 3 CHA_FAN headers. You can tell because CPU_FAN & CPU_OPT show their 4th pins as CPU FAN PWM, whereas the CHA_FAN headers list it as +5V, which means it's essentially a dummy pin. The fact that you said you tried the hub on the CPU_FAN header as well makes me think that you are still having issues with the hub, but you can't assume that a 4-pin header is a PWM header.
> 
> If you do decide to buy a manual fan controller for your optical bay, consider the Reeven Four Eyes Touch (RFC-03) if it's available in your area. I'm using one, & I'm very happy with it. It's well made, easy to use, & easy to read from a distance as long as you pick one of the brighter colors. If you want more of my thoughts, I left a review on Newegg that covers it pretty well.


I will take another look at both manuals i got at home, but i am positive about the hub's behavior putting all fans to max when receiving a PWM and 12v sata. The Mobo i'm not so sure right now.. need to double check that but that is what i recall from 1 and 1/2 years ago when i assembled the system.

I tried the hub PWM connector in all of the fan headers and that always gave me a almost fixed RPM on the fans with very little margin to increase, connecting the sata pwr cable made them fixed at max rpm.

That controller looks nice, clean display







but only (lol only) 30w for 4 fans. The commander FT, supposedly, gives 10w each channel and has 5 of them for a combined 50w max pwr although i don't like the way the info is displayed, too much stuff crammed in such a small space and need to change what fan displays it's info one at a time. That Reeven looks much better in that department, but have no supplier of them in the whole country xD would have to get it online, i will weight the pro's and con's of that and make a decision during this next month, i'm already over my spending limits this month eheheh

Thx for the input, and pointers on the headers. I will try to post my manuals instructions to prove or disprove my beliefs xD


----------



## redshoulder

Anyone test to see whether the new tempered panel fits the previous version, (matx evolv acrylic panel) since they seem to both have the same hinge?


----------



## jrcbandit

I sort of finished a Luxe Tempered Glass build and have a few questions. So is the PWM fan controller taking 3 pin non PWM fans and turning them into PWM fans via the controller, but since it goes to only a single pin on the motherboard, you can only see a single RPM? My motherboard (Z87 Asrock) seems weird with its PWM control, instead of CPU temp it seems to vary fan speed based off changes in motherboard temp or some similar sensor (it only works when I select a narrow temperature range instead of what you normally have with a CPU).

I was thinking of getting the Phanteks LED strip but I'm not sure what length to go for, I don't think doing the entire case would look good as I want to emphasize the NZXT X52 LED effects and having the entire case lit up would lessen the effect. I'm also confused regarding what you can get off Amazon - a Combo for $16 or 1 M for $14, no idea what combo is. Does the 1m/2m come with magnets or does only the combo? I might get the 400mm since I don't think I want to run it throughout the case, but that might be too short to do anything, lol, and it might be adhesive only instead of magnets.

Finally, anyone have good suggestions for PWM fans for the radiator for my NZXT X52 CPU cooler. I want good pressure, but as silent as possible. Currently using the default NZXT fans, I was previously using Gentle Typhoons but they aren't PWM and the NZXT unit can control 4 PWM fans so I don't have to rely on flaky motherboard fan control.


----------



## nycgtr

Evolv owners. I got the sample top from Modmymods today. I will be doing some temp comparisons against my own top which is a large rectangular cutout with a mesh. Photos of the sample product.


----------



## springs113

I think yours may edge it out just a little due to the "beam" in the middle on the modmymods


----------



## nycgtr

Yes that maybe the case. However I will do a stock lid style test as well


----------



## eXistencelies

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nycgtr*
> 
> Evolv owners. I got the sample top from Modmymods today. I will be doing some temp comparisons against my own top which is a large rectangular cutout with a mesh. Photos of the sample product.


Hmm...I like it, but I feel that if they cut the center piece out it would flow better. Reason being my fans are centered in the whole case. Will keep an eye out on your results.


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eXistencelies*
> 
> Hmm...I like it, but I feel that if they cut the center piece out it would flow better. Reason being my fans are centered in the whole case. Will keep an eye out on your results.


I doubt it will make a tangible difference. Especially at normal operating fan speeds, there won't be enough volume of air to overwhelm the ventilation.


----------



## nycgtr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> I doubt it will make a tangible difference. Especially at normal operating fan speeds, there won't be enough volume of air to overwhelm the ventilation.


And your right sir!

The sample modmymods top performs near identical to the cut top I had already which is just a huge rectangle. I think this is due to the radiator mounted placement in the evolv. One of the cuts directly lines up with the whole length of the 360 I have on top along with the more permeable mesh on the top vs my decimex filter.

Test conditions and hardware:

Ambient Temperature: 29.5C (hot up in this apartment)
Ryzen 1800x @ 1.32V 3.9ghz
Titan X pascal @ 120% power limit +500 to mem +225 to core.
Cooling gear:
EK supremacy EVO
EK txp blocks
Pump EK D5 revo
Rads HWLABS GTS 360x2
Fans: 140mm Prolima ultra slim, 6x ML 120 Corsair
PSU: EVGA G2 1300

Test: Valley loop for 25 mins for each top. With a cool down period in between to return cards to a similar starting temp.

For those interested in the data

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1HseuNmSWUETVzWkQ4g1G44tKuvSIWZQq94HZ1PCHrO0/edit?usp=sharing

The stock lid I emulated by just covering the cut out completely on my top. My gpu boost clock dropped by 30mhz with the stock lid, in line with pascal thermal behavior. Across the board temps were higher by a few C on things like the motherboard, ram, nvme etc. Also the fans were going at max. My fan speeds are set based on water temp. T sensor = water temp.


----------



## paskowitz

Damn, that is a super high ambient. Get yo self and AC or at least a fan!

As far as the results, that seems about right. I'm impressed with how cool Ryzen is on water.

The problem here is not linear. Once you get to a certain amount of open surface area, the effect of more open surface area is going to plateau (hockey stick curve). I bet you could block 1 vent and it wouldn't change anything significantly.

I hope Phanteks realizes this. It is likely all they would need to do for a future Evolv is use a less restrictive mesh, increase the size (or decrease obstructions) of the front and back openings (especially the front since it is heavily obstructed) and make the side vents larger (like the Elite).


----------



## nycgtr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> Damn, that is a super high ambient. Get yo self and AC or at least a fan!
> 
> As far as the results, that seems about right. I'm impressed with how cool Ryzen is on water.
> 
> The problem here is not linear. Once you get to a certain amount of open surface area, the effect of more open surface area is going to plateau (hockey stick curve). I bet you could block 1 vent and it wouldn't change anything significantly.
> 
> I hope Phanteks realizes this. It is likely all they would need to do for a future Evolv is use a less restrictive mesh, increase the size (or decrease obstructions) of the front and back openings (especially the front since it is heavily obstructed) and make the side vents larger (like the Elite).


I have ac in the room just I just the airflow in that room isn't great. 29c doesn't feel too bad to me. I turn the ac on when it's 29c outside.


----------



## pez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zaen*
> 
> I will take another look at both manuals i got at home, but i am positive about the hub's behavior putting all fans to max when receiving a PWM and 12v sata. The Mobo i'm not so sure right now.. need to double check that but that is what i recall from 1 and 1/2 years ago when i assembled the system.
> 
> I tried the hub PWM connector in all of the fan headers and that always gave me a almost fixed RPM on the fans with very little margin to increase, connecting the sata pwr cable made them fixed at max rpm.
> 
> That controller looks nice, clean display
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> but only (lol only) 30w for 4 fans. The commander FT, supposedly, gives 10w each channel and has 5 of them for a combined 50w max pwr although i don't like the way the info is displayed, too much stuff crammed in such a small space and need to change what fan displays it's info one at a time. That Reeven looks much better in that department, but have no supplier of them in the whole country xD would have to get it online, i will weight the pro's and con's of that and make a decision during this next month, i'm already over my spending limits this month eheheh
> 
> Thx for the input, and pointers on the headers. I will try to post my manuals instructions to prove or disprove my beliefs xD


So I haven't followed this discussion too much, but since you're using an Asus board, go into the qFan control section of the BIOS and ensure you're not using DC there. If so, it will be sending the hub a 3-pin (voltage) signal regardless of whether you have a 4-pin or 3-pin plugged into the header.


----------



## Zaen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pez*
> 
> So I haven't followed this discussion too much, but since you're using an Asus board, go into the qFan control section of the BIOS and ensure you're not using DC there. If so, it will be sending the hub a 3-pin (voltage) signal regardless of whether you have a 4-pin or 3-pin plugged into the header.


Thx for the reply.

That was one of the 1st things i did, check qfan in BIOS, as i use a mix setup of watercooling on the CPU and air for the rest. The only fan on DC mode was my 200mm intake in the front of the case i had set DC because it's a 3 pin fan. The Phantek's hub uses a 4 pin connector, had that on CHA_FAN1 and set to PWM in BIOS controlling 3 Phantek's 140mm SP, 2 with LED the other was the stock that came with the case that was the one connected to the header 1 on the fan hub and reported to the mobo it's rpm.
Haven't finished cleaning the radiator on the watercooler and i'm running all air atm, but final testing will be with the watercooler back on and see if what i set the CPU fans profile to will be mimicked by all the other fans with no rpm variation, as when i had the hub connected, or it's all ok there.

Right now i'm trying to resolve an issue with frames drop ingames after all the bios resets and BSOD i got trying to find with 100% assurance what was wrong with fans/hub. Getting noticeable FPS drop but only ingame. Trying to get some pointers on another thread about this, that has been taking up most of my nights after work.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> What is Google?


You're right, sorry, lol.


----------



## ozlay

I have the Enthoo Evolv mATX TG. And i was wondering where to install RGB strips? Which kinda sounds weird but i am having a hard time finding a place to put them within the case. At the top of the case it is easy but in the front and back and bottom there really is no place to put RGB strips. Unless i am doing it wrong. but at the bottom there seems to be no room between the panel and the psu shroud.


----------



## ozlay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *levibaker88*
> 
> I'm curious to know if you could fit a 120mm fan in the bottom most position in the front without having to remove that panel on the psu shroud?


yes you can that is how you put 3x 120mm fans in the front.

Edit: sorry for the second post in a row.


----------



## michael-ocn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nycgtr*
> 
> Evolv owners. I got the sample top from Modmymods today. I will be doing some temp comparisons against my own top which is a large rectangular cutout with a mesh. Photos of the sample product.


That looks great! I'd love for them to do the front panel like that. Where on their site should I look for this sort of stuff?


----------



## Benny89

Guys, I have an question about Pump/Res combo. Will this pump : *EK-XRES 100 DDC MX 3.1 PWM* ( https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-xres-100-ddc-mx-3-1-pwm-incl-pump )

Fit this place behind case? *Evolv ATX Tempered Glas*



I am looking for small pump/res combo so I can make small loop just for GPU.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benny89*
> 
> Guys, I have an question about Pump/Res combo. Will this pump : *EK-XRES 100 DDC MX 3.1 PWM* ( https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-xres-100-ddc-mx-3-1-pwm-incl-pump )
> 
> Fit this place behind case? *Evolv ATX Tempered Glas*
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I am looking for small pump/res combo so I can make small loop just for GPU.


Not sure about the EK, but if you are doing a GPU only, the XSPC ION is perfect for that - http://www.performance-pcs.com/xspc-ion-pump-reservoir.html


----------



## ozlay

I need to fix that bent fan mount its making me OCD but other then that I think it turned out pretty good. I just need to get white cables.









"And a better phone to take pics"

Also Asrocks RGB utility sucks they need to do an overhaul and add more features. 90% of the options blink so fast i feel like i'm in a rave party. Luckily i don't get seizures.


----------



## xTesla1856

Finally finished my Enthoo Luxe TG build! Enjoy some potato pictures


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xTesla1856*
> 
> Finally finished my Enthoo Luxe TG build! Enjoy some potato pictures
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Looks good!









But you had me looking forward to seeing pictures of potatoes, too.


----------



## springs113

Love it and the RGB ram modules are a center piece.


----------



## doyll

Looks really good! .. but where are the potatoes?


----------



## PetrasSukys

Stuff is coming together, just waiting for the blocks...

Just wanted to share custom Primo res bracket (will post photos inside case later, still drying...)

First time doing a lot of stuff (cutting, bending, drilling, tapping, sanding, painting) while making this one. Far from perfect, but I love it and happy how it turned out


----------



## eXistencelies

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> I doubt it will make a tangible difference. Especially at normal operating fan speeds, there won't be enough volume of air to overwhelm the ventilation.


Good to know. Any word on when they are releasing these and if they are going to do same design for front?


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eXistencelies*
> 
> Good to know. Any word on when they are releasing these and if they are going to do same design for front?


IDK. I would assume a ~2 weeks.


----------



## OrangeRaptor

anyone know if i can replace the window on my enthoo pro m? I was transporting my build over from a friends house and the car seat smashed the side and cracked the window.


----------



## springs113

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OrangeRaptor*
> 
> anyone know if i can replace the window on my enthoo pro m? I was transporting my build over from a friends house and the car seat smashed the side and cracked the window.


Try calling Phanteks and see what they say. Also if you want a special one you can contact various companies like mnpctech and mountain mods.


----------



## haszek

There we go, shift and shift x


----------



## Dimensive




----------



## capitaltpt

Now we just need to see an updated Primo with tempered glass, RGB, and removeable 5.25 bay. USB 3.1 wouldn't hurt either.


----------



## paskowitz

Looks like a great HTPC, but I wouldn't build a dedicated gaming PC in there. Print that on or near a desk is going to be trouble.


----------



## prava

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> Looks like a great HTPC, but I wouldn't build a dedicated gaming PC in there. Print that on or near a desk is going to be trouble.


Because...?


----------



## mrpurplehawk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *prava*
> 
> Because...?


I think he is seeing it toppling over off the desk. I assume phantek's has thought of this though


----------



## paskowitz

Yeah. I am thinking more somebody bumping into it.


----------



## smithydan

If that Shift had a smaller one that would be awesome, something that would use air coolers only. Nonetheless really nice case that is different.


----------



## PureBlackFire

this P300 case really drives home how the P400 was superior to the S340. this one has the same fan/rad mounting as the S340, still looks like a better hard drive cage, and a glass panel, all for $59.99. that res/pump combo accessory looks great. gonna definitely buy it when it's available so I can keep my DDC pump.


----------



## mrpurplehawk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *capitaltpt*
> 
> Now we just need to see an updated Primo with tempered glass, RGB, and removeable 5.25 bay. USB 3.1 wouldn't hurt either.


This this this, I love my primo more than any other case minus the elite which is a bit more than I'm willing to spend. On the primo note, I redid my tubing in mine last week and I'm pretty happy with it.


----------



## capitaltpt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mrpurplehawk*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *capitaltpt*
> 
> Now we just need to see an updated Primo with tempered glass, RGB, and removeable 5.25 bay. USB 3.1 wouldn't hurt either.
> 
> 
> 
> This this this, I love my primo more than any other case minus the elite which is a bit more than I'm willing to spend. On the primo note, I redid my tubing in mine last week and I'm pretty happy with it.
Click to expand...

Looks nice. I'm hoping Phanteks releases an upgrade this week, other wise I'm probably gonna buy a Primo and mod it as best as possible for my (hopefully) Threadripper build.


----------



## smithydan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PureBlackFire*
> 
> this P300 case really drives home how the P400 was superior to the S340. this one has the same fan/rad mounting as the S340, still looks like a better hard drive cage, and a glass panel, all for $59.99. that res/pump combo accessory looks great. gonna definitely buy it when it's available so I can keep my DDC pump.


Totally agree.

This p300 just shattered the case market at value. I think this is a way better looking p400, I really like the shortened glass look too.

I just don't know how phanteks keep bring such value at their price points.


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PureBlackFire*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> this P300 case really drives home how the P400 was superior to the S340. this one has the same fan/rad mounting as the S340, still looks like a better hard drive cage, and a glass panel, all for $59.99. that res/pump combo accessory looks great. gonna definitely buy it when it's available so I can keep my DDC pump.


This is going to be an insanely popular case. Print dat money Phanteks!


----------



## Testing12

Anyone notice in the P300 video (from Hardware Canucks) that Dmitry briefly shows the new Enthoo Pro M Special Edition case? All he says about it is that it has a white interior. That’s cool, but is there anything else that sets it apart from the ‘regular’ Pro M?


----------



## OrangeRaptor

So I emailed phanteks support and they said a new side panel would be 20 dollars plus 16 dollars for shipping.







Wasnt expecting it to be soo much for shipping.


----------



## mrpurplehawk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OrangeRaptor*
> 
> So I emailed phanteks support and they said a new side panel would be 20 dollars plus 16 dollars for shipping.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wasnt expecting it to be soo much for shipping.


Is that in the US? I am hoping they release and updated Primo with a TG panel but if they don't, I'd like to replace mine as it has a scratch.


----------



## OrangeRaptor

yeah. I'm in california.


----------



## mrpurplehawk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OrangeRaptor*
> 
> yeah. I'm in california.


Well damn, I guess if they don't release it I will bite the bullet


----------



## OrangeRaptor

Sadly I dont have nearly 40 dollars to spend on a new side panel. Guess i'll live with scratches and a crack on my window.







If i'm gonna spend 40 dollars on a side panel why not just buy a new case or mod my current one.


----------



## springs113

Yup, you might as well but a the p300 when it comes out


----------



## mrpurplehawk

I guess its a bit different since I rather spend $40 compared to $200+ on another Primo. P300 making me think about building a 2nd Gaming pc for lan use though.


----------



## OrangeRaptor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *springs113*
> 
> Yup, you might as well but a the p300 when it comes out


I really like the look of the enthoo luxe. Probably gonna pick one of those up for my next build which will probably include amd thread ripper







I dont really like the look of the p300 tbh


----------



## springs113

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OrangeRaptor*
> 
> I really like the look of the enthoo luxe. Probably gonna pick one of those up for my next build which will probably include amd thread ripper
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I dont really like the look of the p300 tbh


Nice i liked the luxe but ultimately chose a diff manufacturer again, to stretch my wings. I'm here waiting on AMDs press conference which should start in another 40 minutes or so. What threadripper are you aiming for?
What do you think the price will be of your selection? (Answer before AMD does lol)
Are you planning an entire AMD build? I am
Are you looking to water cool in the Luxe?
What Luxe? The TG model?


----------



## OrangeRaptor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *springs113*
> 
> Nice i liked the luxe but ultimately chose a diff manufacturer again, to stretch my wings. I'm here waiting on AMDs press conference which should start in another 40 minutes or so. What threadripper are you aiming for?
> What do you think the price will be of your selection? (Answer before AMD does lol)
> Are you planning an entire AMD build? I am
> Are you looking to water cool in the Luxe?
> What Luxe? The TG model?


TBH I'm wanting to go all out. I mean future proof to the max. So the highest end 16c/32t. all amd build. I think it'll be around the 1k usd point but anything can happen. I'm not really looking to watercool but i have been considering it. I'm probably just gonna go with the base luxe without tg. I like the shapes of the windows. But all of this comes down to what's available at the time. I just really want the system to last year and years.


----------



## pez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OrangeRaptor*
> 
> Sadly I dont have nearly 40 dollars to spend on a new side panel. Guess i'll live with scratches and a crack on my window.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If i'm gonna spend 40 dollars on a side panel why not just buy a new case or mod my current one.


Be happy it's that cheap for your shipping. People on the East Coast are quoted $30+ for shipping alone. They wanted $20+ in shipping for an out-of-production cooler shipped from them before.....


----------



## Blinky7

If someone with any version of P400 or Enthoo Pro M could do a measurement for me I'd be greatful. I would like to know what is the internal space on the front from bottom (with the plate removed) to the top (I guess to where the front stuff pcb is). I plan to install a 240 and a 120 radiators on front and want to see if they will fit because of the extra bumps they have...


----------



## xTesla1856

Diggin the all red look


----------



## paskowitz

Cross post from watercooling thread:

If you want the top cover that I had done PM me, and I'll give you the email of the guy who did it. I have no information on pricing or availability.

All I know is the following:

You would be shipping your original stock panel to him and he would cut it and ship it back. That is between $10-25 each way (location depending)
My design is the default, but a custom one would be possible (likely an added cost)
Mesh is likely not included unless specified (also extra) (easy to get online)
For reference:


----------



## dallas1990

I have the enthoo primo and I'd love a tempered glass side panel. Cause my original window is all scratched and scuffed. But I don't want it tinted


----------



## Dimensive

I spy an EVOLV ITX with tempered glass:


----------



## TraderXYZ

Hi Guys,

Just found this thread while doing a search.

I am caught between the following 2 cases: Enthoo Lux Tempered and EVOLV ATX Tempered.

Aesthetically, I love the material and look of the EVOLV ATX Tempered, but don't like how both sides are Tempered, more so, I don't like how the SSD is mounted on the back? Can they be mounted in the front? Does anyone know if they sell replacements panels for the back side? I looked at the online shop, but didn't see anything.

The Enthoo Lux Tempered also looks good, but is a bit bigger; the 5.25 bay drives doesn't seem to be of any use to me as well. However, I like how I can mount everything in the front, and things look spacious.

Anyone w/ the Lux Tempered in Gray / Black? Thanks


----------



## Roxycon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TraderXYZ*
> 
> Hi Guys,
> 
> Just found this thread while doing a search.
> 
> I am caught between the following 2 cases: Enthoo Lux Tempered and EVOLV ATX Tempered.
> 
> Aesthetically, I love the material and look of the EVOLV ATX Tempered, but don't like how both sides are Tempered, more so, I don't like how the SSD is mounted on the back? Can they be mounted in the front? Does anyone know if they sell replacements panels for the back side? I looked at the online shop, but didn't see anything.
> 
> The Enthoo Lux Tempered also looks good, but is a bit bigger; the 5.25 bay drives doesn't seem to be of any use to me as well. However, I like how I can mount everything in the front, and things look spacious.
> 
> Anyone w/ the Lux Tempered in Gray / Black? Thanks


There is one mounting spot for a 2,5" drive in the front of the evolv ATX.

As for the glass panel, no, there is noe replacement as there is different mounting mechanisms from the non TG version. But you got vinyl wrap (black or smoked) as an easy, reversible and cheap modification







purchaseable from eBay


----------



## pez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dimensive*
> 
> I spy an EVOLV ITX with tempered glass:


I'm surprised I didn't notice that when I first watched the vid. This might tip me over to the decision of going with another Evolv ITX when it drops...


----------



## OrangeRaptor

I have my eye on that Pro M with the white interior. Might go with that instead of the Luxe depending on my next build.


----------



## Testing12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OrangeRaptor*
> 
> I have my eye on that Pro M with the white interior.


Me too! Except, I can't seem to find any info about it other than it's called a Pro M Special Edition and it has a white interior. No good pics I've seen other than a brief glimpse in a HardwareCanucks video.


----------



## Testing12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Testing12*
> 
> Me too! Except, I can't seem to find any info about it other than it's called a Pro M Special Edition and it has a white interior. No good pics I've seen other than a brief glimpse in a HardwareCanucks video.


(_Sorry to quote my own post..._)

Ok, I just stumbled upon a KitGuru article that shows 2 pics of the new Pro M Special Edition:
https://www.kitguru.net/components/cases/matthew-wilson/computex-phanteks-rolls-out-new-cases-liquid-cooling-gear-and-accessories/

It appears that the interior is almost all white (as opposed to the P400s), but does share the P400s' PCI expansion slot covers colors (white, black, white, black, etc.).

According to KitGuru, it will also feature RGB controllers and two halos.

Halos are RGB LED fan rings for use with fans that don't have their own LED's. Check out a HardwareCanucks video that elaborates a bit and gives visuals (@~ 1:55):


----------



## OrangeRaptor

I like the idea of the halos but if they don't include the led strip then that kinda ruins it for me. I thought it was a full rgb ring that you buy and just shove onto a fan and call it a day. Did they say at all what led strips are supported or what lengths?


----------



## Testing12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OrangeRaptor*
> 
> Did they say at all what led strips are supported or what lengths?


Not that I've seen. However, it's 'early' in that some of the stuff shown at Computex isn't ready for primetime and may or may not even make it to market.


----------



## TraderXYZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roxycon*
> 
> There is one mounting spot for a 2,5" drive in the front of the evolv ATX.
> 
> As for the glass panel, no, there is noe replacement as there is different mounting mechanisms from the non TG version. But you got vinyl wrap (black or smoked) as an easy, reversible and cheap modification
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> purchaseable from eBay


Thanks. I think I might just go with the ENTHOO LUXE as a start.


----------



## Roxycon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OrangeRaptor*
> 
> I like the idea of the halos but if they don't include the led strip then that kinda ruins it for me. I thought it was a full rgb ring that you buy and just shove onto a fan and call it a day. Did they say at all what led strips are supported or what lengths?


For the price they're quoting, 10/16/20 USD, they better have the LED's included


----------



## Blinky7

the RGB prices in everything PC related are inflated too much, yet people are buying. Especially NZXT's prices are ridicoulus .
It's plain wrong, and I guess as long as there are people out there buying the stuff, there is no hope


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roxycon*
> 
> For the price they're quoting, 10/16/20 USD, they better have the LED's included


I would happily pay $20 for a top tier fan with no LEDs. I would not pay $20 for a lousy fan with LEDs. It's a *fan*. It is made to move air, not light it up.


----------



## Melcar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> I would happily pay $20 for a top tier fan with no LEDs. I would not pay $20 for a lousy fan with LEDs. It's a *fan*. It is made to move air, not light it up.


It moves light. Light cools better obviously.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Melcar*
> 
> It moves light. Light cools better obviously.


I thought only Corsair CLCs could move light in order to cool?

Which is oddly more rational than many other claims I have heard people make about them


----------



## OrangeRaptor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> I thought only Corsair CLCs could move light in order to cool?
> 
> Which is oddly more rational than many other claims I have heard people make about them


Yo I love those Corsair Closed Light Coolers. Those things are amazing at cooling my computer.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OrangeRaptor*
> 
> Yo I love those Corsair Closed Light Coolers. Those things are amazing at cooling my computer.


My friend's neighbor's dog walker's cousin had one, and he put Noctua fans on it. The temperatures dropped sub-zero in a five mile radius, and it actually inverted sound waves, so not only was the cooler silent, but it made everything around it silent. Everyone thought they had gone deaf and were freezing.


----------



## AyyMD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> My friend's neighbor's dog walker's cousin had one, and he put Noctua fans on it. The temperatures dropped sub-zero in a five mile radius, and it actually inverted sound waves, so not only was the cooler silent, but it made everything around it silent. Everyone thought they had gone deaf and were freezing.


Man, I'm gonna throw out all my air coolers for an H55 and two NF-S12B redux (700rpm) fans!!


----------



## RavageTheEarth

I got my Aorus 1080 Ti under water this week after a one month wait turned into a dreadful two month wait since Ek likes to delay everything.









I had to unscrew the reservoir mount to get it to fit. My delidded 6700k got the luxury of being the only thing to cool in a loop with two D5's and 1020mm of radiator space. Here is how it looked before running on that crap called air.











aaaaand after getting rid of that stupidly big cooler. Finally nice and neat again.


----------



## OrangeRaptor

>isnt corsair closed light cooler


----------



## gulvastr

Hello everyone,

I have been exclusively using, modding and building with the Phanteks Luxe case for about 2 years. Over that time I have torn apart my rig and reassembled in in may configurations trying to push what I can do with this great case. Unfortunately do to my inability to save old images (i am a lazy backer upper) I have lost the pictures of some of my first setups. I am posting these images and will continue to do so in a effort to help people using this case.

*Setup #1*

1) Motherboard tray was removed and shortened both vertically and horizontally. This made the the edge of the board overhang the tray on both the right side and bottom. This gave the board the illusion of hanging in the air inside the case. Hard to tell for the limitied amount of pics of this configuration but I looked great with some good back lighting.

2) PCI slots were removed leaving only the top 4 slots for my GPUs. This allowed my to flip up my PSU on edge displaying the fan side. The exhaust for the PSU vented out a new hole on the back of the case. The PSU drew air from within the case and exhausted it out the back. This PSU has been modified to use a Noctua NFA14 fan.

3) HDDs & SSDs were mounted in a cage behind the PSU which completely hid them.

4) 420 GTS radiator up top in push pull and a 360 GTS radiator on the front in push pull. Front radiator was spaced about a half inch off the case with aluminum spacers.

5) Insulated the entire inside of the case in white filter media for sound dampening, filtration and aesthetics.

This configuration used no special lighting.

I have found a few pics of this setup I will look for more.



http://imgur.com/v8VgRWS




http://imgur.com/tLX7sNW




http://imgur.com/yytwXLT


*Setup #2*

Same setup as above but with Yate Loon UV blue fans instead of Noctua and green UV coolant. This was to bright for me and I changed back to the no lighting Noctua setup.



http://imgur.com/09fJ0GL




http://imgur.com/wobXy4I




http://imgur.com/ztm7eRA




http://imgur.com/2In5VMq


*Setup #3*

1) Black case with 360 GTS up top, 240 GTS in front and standard motherboard tray and PSU configuration. Tried to get back to basics with this setup. Was looking to increase the structural integrity of the case as I feel I cut to much of the white case.

2) Purple UV lighting, Noctua fans and pink UV fluid.



http://imgur.com/f902Pej




http://imgur.com/bfY5786




http://imgur.com/iyef2yf


*Setup #4 (currently building)*

After deciding to go with a Threadripper upon release I wanted to max out the cooling potential of this case and as such the following is being built.

1) Black case with 420 GTS up top in pull, 360 GTS in front in push and 240 GTS on the bottom in push. All using Noctua fans that are painted black. I had to buy a new PSU and cables to fit the 240 radiator on the bottom. I bought a Silverstone Strider 850 platinum PSU. It was shortest high quailty PSU I could find and the difference in length from my EVGA PSU allowed me to fit the lower radiator.



http://imgur.com/YPxN43n




http://imgur.com/2HuelQU




http://imgur.com/kac6ZkA


I will post more pics as I wrap up the triple rad setup in the coming week. As you can see I love this case and I hope some of these pics are useful to someone wanting to use this case. I do not make build logs as I do not have the patience for it but I wanted to post these pictures here for Phanteks fans I before they get lost too hahaha.


----------



## kaiqi07

Just to share my humble rig. Completed fixing the watercooling loop. This build color theme is Neutral Tones which are black white and grey. Fittings, Fan Blades and Copper Tubes are all silver chrome / silver shiny.

There are a total of two drain ports to enable easier to drain out the coolant from the Reservoir as well as GPU. This enables me to swap out the GPU easier for future upgrades.

As the Phanteks Evolv ATX TG is not really Watercooling Friendly, I can only use 30mm radiators (360 and 240) I had to use a 240mm radiator so that I am able to keep my HDD cage at the bottom of the PSU Chamber.

Cooling wise, it is not the best setup as the temps still hovers at 65 - 75 degrees for my GPU due to the poor air flow (even after modding the top and front panels). I had swapped out the NZXT AER RGB fans for the Gentle Typhoons to improve the temps.

LED lighting wise, I am using RGB as well. I am using both ASUS Aura Sync as well as NZXT Hue. I will be modding my own 5mm RGB LEDs to be hooked up to both the GPUs which will be use to illuminate both the reservoir as well as the CPU block.

*Overview of the rig interior*


http://imgur.com/WvqcKKG





http://imgur.com/emkEsBV





http://imgur.com/KARdaa4



*Painted Chrome Gentle Typhoon Blades*


http://imgur.com/xQqdJak



*ASUS Strix 1080TI SLI with Bitspower Blocks*


http://imgur.com/q3tUPKQ


----------



## senna89

Excuse me guys

I bought an Evolv ATX Tempered Glass, and i still not bought the PC hardware but i want to ask you a question.



trols and front LED, but i notice also a cable with SATA power connector, *what is this* ? the card need to be powered ?
Ih the connector theres writed "_power_", but *what means* ???

And the reset cable where is ?

This is the description words on the connectors from left to right :

Connector 1 : frontal led cable
Connector 2 : LED SW
Connector 3 : PWR ( the cable with SATA power connector im speaking about )
Connector 4 : RGB
Connector 5 : PWR SV ( This is the cable for ON ? )


----------



## KaffieneKing

@senna89 is the sata power not to power the LEDs?


----------



## Benny89

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kaiqi07*
> 
> Just to share my humble rig. Completed fixing the watercooling loop. This build color theme is Neutral Tones which are black white and grey. Fittings, Fan Blades and Copper Tubes are all silver chrome / silver shiny.
> 
> There are a total of two drain ports to enable easier to drain out the coolant from the Reservoir as well as GPU. This enables me to swap out the GPU easier for future upgrades.
> 
> As the Phanteks Evolv ATX TG is not really Watercooling Friendly, I can only use 30mm radiators (360 and 240) I had to use a 240mm radiator so that I am able to keep my HDD cage at the bottom of the PSU Chamber.
> 
> Cooling wise, it is not the best setup as the temps still hovers at 65 - 75 degrees for my GPU due to the poor air flow (even after modding the top and front panels). I had swapped out the NZXT AER RGB fans for the Gentle Typhoons to improve the temps.
> 
> LED lighting wise, I am using RGB as well. I am using both ASUS Aura Sync as well as NZXT Hue. I will be modding my own 5mm RGB LEDs to be hooked up to both the GPUs which will be use to illuminate both the reservoir as well as the CPU block.
> 
> *Overview of the rig interior*
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/WvqcKKG
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/emkEsBV
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/KARdaa4
> 
> 
> 
> *Painted Chrome Gentle Typhoon Blades*
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/xQqdJak
> 
> 
> 
> *ASUS Strix 1080TI SLI with Bitspower Blocks*
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/q3tUPKQ


While this build looks awesome- 65-75C?? I have seen many water builds with SLI 1070, 1080 and 1080Ti on YouTube in this case and max temp they were reporting was 55C with SLI GPU (360+240 rad combo everywhere).

Hell, I have right now 22C ambient and with 70% fan speed my OCed GPU 2063 on core does not exceed 57-8C... On air.

And my front push-pull AIO cooler H105 corsair keeps my 4.2 Ghz 1.36V 5775C at max 61C in BF1. Can't say that air flow is that bad.

Something is wrong here with those temps. Unless you live in Africa with 36 ambient in room and you have no AC they are way too hight if I can achieve lower on air with OCed card in same case.

Hell during day when ambient is 26-7C I don't see higher that 60C on 70% fan speed.


----------



## senna89

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaffieneKing*
> 
> @senna89 is the sata power not to power the LEDs?


i dont know, im asking to you


----------



## kaiqi07

I live in Singapore. The temps I stated are during load and using nzxt aer rgb fans. I just changed to gt ap15. Will do a test run later again


----------



## acheleg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benny89*
> 
> While this build looks awesome- 65-75C?? I have seen many water builds with SLI 1070, 1080 and 1080Ti on YouTube in this case and max temp they were reporting was 55C with SLI GPU (360+240 rad combo everywhere).
> 
> Hell, I have right now 22C ambient and with 70% fan speed my OCed GPU 2063 on core does not exceed 57-8C... On air.
> 
> And my front push-pull AIO cooler H105 corsair keeps my 4.2 Ghz 1.36V 5775C at max 61C in BF1. Can't say that air flow is that bad.
> 
> Something is wrong here with those temps. Unless you live in Africa with 36 ambient in room and you have no AC they are way too hight if I can achieve lower on air with OCed card in same case.
> 
> Hell during day when ambient is 26-7C I don't see higher that 60C on 70% fan speed.


hows the humidity in singapore?


----------



## Benny89

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kaiqi07*
> 
> I live in Singapore. The temps I stated are during load and using nzxt aer rgb fans. I just changed to gt ap15. Will do a test run later again


Ok, my temps are also under load (1440p Ultra settings Witcher 3 2-3 hours of gaming). That is why imo something is wrong with your temps if I can get better on air. Case has good enough airflow to get good temps. Did you cover your rads with something?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *acheleg*
> 
> hows the humidity in singapore?


I don't live in singapore







.


----------



## acheleg

is it the ambient air temperature, or is it the humidity? theres lots of variables. i started overclocking in an attic.


----------



## doyll

To us higher humidity feels hotter than dry air at same temperature, but for mechanical cooling systems it is not true.
High air temp increase component temps.
Higher humidity at same air temp tend to lower component temp.
Reason is the moisture in the air absorbs heat .. more humidity means air has more moisture in it and can absorb more heat then low humidity / dry air.


----------



## kaiqi07

Yes, Singapore sits on the equator. We are high humid and temps are bad as well. Experiencing 28- 35 / 36 degrees is a norm.

Anyway I am not the only one having the airflow issue with phanteks evolv atx.

Even on air cool my dual Asus strix 1080ti is running as high as 90degrees on load.

Anyway for the 65-75 degrees temps on wc I am using NZXT aer rgb fans on the rads. I had changed to 5 X gentle Typhoons. 3 TOP exhaust and 2 Front intake. I also had added another scythe 120mm slip stream slim at the rear as additional intake. I will do another load test later tonight. Hopefully the changes of the fan setup will improve the temps.


----------



## Benny89

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kaiqi07*
> 
> Yes, Singapore sits on the equator. We are high humid and temps are bad as well. Experiencing 28- 35 / 36 degrees is a norm.
> 
> Anyway I am not the only one having the airflow issue with phanteks evolv atx.
> 
> Even on air cool my dual Asus strix 1080ti is running as high as 90degrees on load.
> 
> Anyway for the 65-75 degrees temps on wc I am using NZXT aer rgb fans on the rads. I had changed to 5 X gentle Typhoons. 3 TOP exhaust and 2 Front intake. I also had added another scythe 120mm slip stream slim at the rear as additional intake. I will do another load test later tonight. Hopefully the changes of the fan setup will improve the temps.


Uuu, Singapore air/temp must be really bad. I had for a moment SLI 1080 TI STRIX on air in my case and top one was max 80C on 65% fan speed.


----------



## kaiqi07

80 degrees on air is a norm. I had once peaked to 90.

Just did a Heavens Bench. interesting result.

At load with default clocks on GPU and CPU at SLI mode, the max temps are 49 and 61 degrees. Quite surprised as on the NZXT AER RGB fans the temps difference is huge, 14 - 17 degrees more!

Fans wise, I am setting 100% for all intake and 60% for top exhaust. ST30 radiators tends to perform better with slow rpm fans, so for the top exhaust i set it lower rpm but for front intake (240mm rad ST30) I had to use 100% to ensure more cool air is being pumped into the case itself.


----------



## ciarlatano

And from the file labeled "Incredibly Obvious, Simple and Inexpensive Solutions..... So, I finally stopped being lazy and swapped my intakes on my Evolv ATX back to the F140SP after testing three 120mm Noctuas. I also slightly spaced out the front using the screws from the kit that are flat with a small thread on the end - these bring the front panel almost even with rest of the panels and not sticking out. I also decided to use the F140SP in the upper positions, and add an 80mm Arctic to keep air moving over the HDD. The 80mm pressure fit right in with no need for mounting, and a little foam on the sides isolated it. The difference was immediately pronounced - Delta T of my liquid dropped ~4C, and liquid cooled much quicker after stress testing with no increase in noise. The other nice bonus - when the fans were in the lower position, I had constant dust issues due to negative pressure since 1.3 140SP were feeding three F120MP exhaust, and that seems to have been alleviated since smoke now blows away from my PCI slots rather than getting sucked in.

So, stupid, simple, logical....and a $7.50 outlay with about ten minutes of work to make a nice difference.


----------



## ITAngel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> And from the file labeled "Incredibly Obvious, Simple and Inexpensive Solutions..... So, I finally stopped being lazy and swapped my intakes on my Evolv ATX back to the F140SP after testing three 120mm Noctuas. I also slightly spaced out the front using the screws from the kit that are flat with a small thread on the end - these bring the front panel almost even with rest of the panels and not sticking out. I also decided to use the F140SP in the upper positions, and add an 80mm Arctic to keep air moving over the HDD. The 80mm pressure fit right in with no need for mounting, and a little foam on the sides isolated it. The difference was immediately pronounced - Delta T of my liquid dropped ~4C, and liquid cooled much quicker after stress testing with no increase in noise. The other nice bonus - when the fans were in the lower position, I had constant dust issues due to negative pressure since 1.3 140SP were feeding three F120MP exhaust, and that seems to have been alleviated since smoke now blows away from my PCI slots rather than getting sucked in.
> 
> So, stupid, simple, logical....and a $7.50 outlay with about ten minutes of work to make a nice difference.


Nice setup! I may need to run some test on my case. =)


----------



## Lutfij

Wow, just when I purchased a Phanteks Enthoo Evolv itx(non TG edition) they announce a TG edition...great!
Regardless, please consider me the newest addition to the club with a Special Edition Black/Red Enthoo Evolv itx case













I was wondering, how come there isn't a list of users who own a case? Would be fitting if the first post had a tally of users under respective case(series')...no?


----------



## eXistencelies

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kaiqi07*
> 
> I live in Singapore. The temps I stated are during load and using nzxt aer rgb fans. I just changed to gt ap15. Will do a test run later again


I have a strong feeling something is in between your GPU die and the block. It happened to me. Temps would idle fine, but under load shot up into the 60's. I have same case and a 1080ti. It does not see anything over 48*C under load after long periods of gaming.


----------



## kaiqi07

Trust me, I had fixed up waterblocks for countless builds. From 7970 xfire, 680GTX SLI, 780TI Tri SLI to current 1080TI SLI. Nothing is wrong with the mounting of the block itself. I had ran some test using the newly installed GT AP15 X5 and Slip Stream Slim X1. Max temps is 49 - 61 Degrees currently. I guess its the AER fans are meant to be used as case fans instead of radiator....


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kaiqi07*
> 
> I guess its the AER fans are meant to be used as case fans instead of radiator....


Or just as lighting accents that happen to have something resembling a fan in the center.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Or just as lighting accents that happen to have something resembling a fan in the center.


Exactly!








Case fans need to overcome similar resistance as what a radiator produces .. depending on how restriction the grill and filter create it can easily be as much or more resistance than a good free-flowing radiator. .


----------



## smonkie

As beautiful this case is, it's a real pain in the ass temperature wise, even more so when you use air cooling. So I decided to get some ventilation on top, and paint the not-so-great silver colour while on it:







Cuts are nowhere close to perfection, but I'm pretty satisfied with results.


----------



## smonkie

The top mesh was bought on eBay. 1mm thickness, 3mm holes.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smonkie*
> 
> The top mesh was bought on eBay. 1mm thickness, 3mm holes.


So you cut a nice big vent in the top and then put in mesh that blocks 70% of it's area and restricts airflow by 85-90%. I guess it's better than no vent.









My Evolv ATX aircools very well and all I did was remove the little slit vent grills and plastic pieces in ends of case under top cover. Works great.


----------



## smonkie

The open area of the mesh is 60%, so I deeply doubt the restriction is 85/90%. I also doubt warm air behaves the same way when not pushed at high speeds, so I don't know if the restriction rules apply the same way.

Besides, having a high overclocked 6700K ([email protected]) on air and a 1080Ti and pretending to run them both pretty much silent asked for something more than removing the pvc grills. And I did all sort of tests, believe me.

My temps now barely reach 70/74 cpu/gpu, with the fans running at 600rpm most of the time, and hitting 950-1000 @ load. That's paradise for a silent PC.: )


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smonkie*
> 
> The open area of the mesh is 60%, not 30% as you are guessing.
> 
> Besides, having a high overclocked 6700K in air and a 1080Ti and pretending to run them both pretty much silent asked for something more than removing the pvc grills.


I thnk you got it backwards.
3.2mm hole mesh has 30-40% ope flow area according to my data charts.










That is quite a bit of heat you are generating, especially trying to keep it all quiet.
Did you try removing the case end pieces and mesh mesh from top vents? And setting the top on top of it's latches instead of pushed down give an additional 3mm gap around entire top.

Nit-picking aside, as long a sit runs cool and quiet. That is the important thing.


----------



## badou

New owner of an Evolv mATX tempered here !
First Phanteks case, really nice product quality.

I've got a Silent Loop 280 in front and i have to admit the fit is really tight.
I have swapped the stock silent loop fans for Silent Wing 3.

Here's my build :
- B350M Bazooka
- R7 1700
- 16Go 3200 Corsair
- RX 580 nitro+
- Silent Loop 280
- Seasonic prime gold 650

My concern is My GPU is really loud in games (although it shouldn't by the reviews)
I'm assuming it's overheating then.

What would be the best options in your opinion :

- put a 140mm on back-top exhaust (currently I've just the back 140mm exhaust)

- try to set my Silent Loop in push/pull mode to get more air to the GPU

- upgrade some fans (I doubt I can by better fans than SilentWings 3, but what about the stock Phanteks fans ?)

Last question (a bit off-topic) :

Even in games, my intakes fans stay at low rpm, because my CPU doesn't heat.
But my GPU needs more air when on load.
So I would like to find a way to control those intakes fan with two temps : CPU & GPU
So that my intakes fans follow my GPU fans even if my CPU cold.

Thanks for the help guys !

Ps : excuse me for my poor English skills, frenchie here.
For those who are interested, pics of the builds are coming


----------



## attakkann1

hi i want to buy p400 or p400s .im going to build my first pc which is ryzen.
i bought entry lvl mobo so it have 1 chasis fan and 1 sys fan port.thats why i want p400s cuz of fan controller.but i cant find anything about that controller how many fans can i connect am i need extra cable(like y cable or somethig)

ibought 2 corsair ml 120 fan which i want to use front of case.

can someone take picture of the fan controller conneter to show me how it will connect ?

i bought all part execpt case.


----------



## Melcar

Phanteks controllers, if I remember correctly (I threw mine out) con take 6 fans, but you can use splitters for more. Keep in mind that these hubs are not real PWM hubs. They just use the mobo's PWM signal to control fans using basic voltage regulation. And I think the hubs only go as low as 9v (read that somewhere so not sure).


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *attakkann1*
> 
> hi i want to buy p400 or p400s .im going to build my first pc which is ryzen.
> i bought entry lvl mobo so it have 1 chasis fan and 1 sys fan port.thats why i want p400s cuz of fan controller.but i cant find anything about that controller how many fans can i connect am i need extra cable(like y cable or somethig)
> 
> ibought 2 corsair ml 120 fan which i want to use front of case.
> 
> can someone take picture of the fan controller conneter to show me how it will connect ?
> 
> i bought all part execpt case.


So you don't have the P400S case yet? As I understand it , the P400S fan controller is just a 3-way switch so probably uses a Sata connector to PSU to power it. With the fna headers you have on your motherboard I would connect case fans to \Y-splitter and splitter to motherboard. and not use the case controller. You will need a PWM splitter or control for the Ml120 fans. I suggest something like the Gelid PWM fan splitter with PSU connection so fans are powered directly from PSU.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Melcar*
> 
> Phanteks controllers, if I remember correctly (I threw mine out) con take 6 fans, but you can use splitters for more. Keep in mind that these hubs are not real PWM hubs. They just use the mobo's PWM signal to control fans using basic voltage regulation. And I think the hubs only go as low as 9v (read that somewhere so not sure).


Only Eclipse case with fan control is P400Sr and it is just a 3-way switch. not the PWM controlled variable voltage fan hub.


----------



## harrisonk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *badou*
> 
> New owner of an Evolv mATX tempered here !
> First Phanteks case, really nice product quality.
> 
> I've got a Silent Loop 280 in front and i have to admit the fit is really tight.
> I have swapped the stock silent loop fans for Silent Wing 3.
> 
> Here's my build :
> - B350M Bazooka
> - R7 1700
> - 16Go 3200 Corsair
> - RX 580 nitro+
> - Silent Loop 280
> - Seasonic prime gold 650
> 
> My concern is My GPU is really loud in games (although it shouldn't by the reviews)
> I'm assuming it's overheating then.
> 
> What would be the best options in your opinion :
> 
> - put a 140mm on back-top exhaust (currently I've just the back 140mm exhaust)
> 
> - try to set my Silent Loop in push/pull mode to get more air to the GPU
> 
> - upgrade some fans (I doubt I can by better fans than SilentWings 3, but what about the stock Phanteks fans ?)
> 
> Last question (a bit off-topic) :
> 
> Even in games, my intakes fans stay at low rpm, because my CPU doesn't heat.
> But my GPU needs more air when on load.
> So I would like to find a way to control those intakes fan with two temps : CPU & GPU
> So that my intakes fans follow my GPU fans even if my CPU cold.
> 
> Thanks for the help guys !
> 
> Ps : excuse me for my poor English skills, frenchie here.
> For those who are interested, pics of the builds are coming


Great feedback on the mATX for the GPU, especially since I'm about to complete a very similar build. I've got dual 240 radiators and a waterblock on my GPU (hd7970, soon or replaced with an rx580 nitro), which I will be grateful for.

Using a pair of fans up top, and blocking off the gap around the fans on the top plate is the only way you're going to get enough air into your case without doing push pull on the front. This will force all hot air out the back of the case with higher positive air pressure.

The pics attached explain what I mean about blocking off the space around the fans. It's been well discussed in the Evolv threads.


----------



## geriatricpollywog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *harrisonk*
> 
> Great feedback on the mATX for the GPU, especially since I'm about to complete a very similar build. I've got dual 240 radiators and a waterblock on my GPU (hd7970, soon or replaced with an rx580 nitro), which I will be grateful for.
> 
> Using a pair of fans up top, and blocking off the gap around the fans on the top plate is the only way you're going to get enough air into your case without doing push pull on the front. This will force all hot air out the back of the case with higher positive air pressure.
> 
> The pics attached explain what I mean about blocking off the space around the fans. It's been well discussed in the Evolv threads.


This is just common sense. Anybody who has cooling problems with the Evolv ATX either doesn't know what they are doing, is comprimising on cost, or is going for a clean look.


----------



## smonkie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0451*
> 
> This is just common sense. Anybody who has cooling problems with the Evolv ATX either doesn't know what they are doing, is comprimising on cost, or is going for a clean look.


Yo missed one reason: ... or they are going for silence. And I make this clear: this case is not for silence, not if you want decent temps. Prior to my mod I tried everything possible: I covered the top holes in the ventilation grill, I use even longer screws than the ones included for the front panel to separate even further, and even had to resign and rise the chassis fans to avoid the heat building inside my case. But I was still reaching 77ºCPU/78º GPU temps, and I was not that comfortable with those temps. Summer is coming and it's not cold here in Spain.

With my mod, I rarely see the CPU going above 70º, and the GPU stays at 74º rock solid (and that's with 26º ambient). Also, the glass is not near fusion melt point when I touch it.







And ofc, with a near silent configuration.

If you are looking for both silence and temps, a 5-6º improvement for a 10€ mod is well worth imho. And it looks great live.


----------



## misoonigiri

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> I thnk you got it backwards.
> 3.2mm hole mesh has 30-40% ope flow area according to my data charts.


smonkie's mesh has hexagonal holes, they look more similar to the ones on the left column that have larger open areas


----------



## smonkie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *misoonigiri*
> 
> smonkie's mesh has hexagonal holes, they look more similar to the ones on the left column that have larger open areas


You are exactly right. This is the mesh I bought:

http://www.ebay.es/itm/Hexagonal-Mesh-Mild-Steel-Perforated-Sheet-2mm-Hole-2-5mm-Pitch-1mm-Thickness/132142958686?_trksid=p2045573.c100033.m2042&_trkparms=aid%3D111001%26algo%3DREC.SEED%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20140423084956%26meid%3Dcb024ed74683466bb8dbdd1c3da57a7d%26pid%3D100033%26rk%3D4%26rkt%3D4%26mehot%3Dpp%26sd%3D152582898877

Hexagonal holes open area >>> Round holes open area. Basic maths. And I can assure you air runs nice and unimpeded through it.

As a matter of fact, I guess my estimation of 60% open space was not that far from reality.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smonkie*
> 
> The top mesh was bought on eBay. 1mm thickness, 3mm holes.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *misoonigiri*
> 
> I based my original reply on what he posted:
> smonkie's mesh has hexagonal holes, they look more similar to the ones on the left column that have larger open areas


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smonkie*
> 
> You are exactly right. This is the mesh I bought:
> http://www.ebay.es/itm/Hexagonal-Mesh-Mild-Steel-Perforated-Sheet-2mm-Hole-2-5mm-Pitch-1mm-Thickness/132142958686?_trksid=p2045573.c100033.m2042&_trkparms=aid%3D111001%26algo%3DREC.SEED%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20140423084956%26meid%3Dcb024ed74683466bb8dbdd1c3da57a7d%26pid%3D100033%26rk%3D4%26rkt%3D4%26mehot%3Dpp%26sd%3D152582898877
> 
> And I can assure you air runs nice and unimpeded through it.
> 
> As a matter of fact, I guess my estimation of 60% open space was not that far from reality.


Sorry, but "you air runs nice and unimpeded thrugh it" is not at all true. Air flowing around the mesh creates a lot of turbulence and this turbulence greatly restricts airflow.
True, your 60% guess was not far off for hex mesh. Round hole much is much more restrictive and that is what I was guessing it was because nothing was said about it being hex mesh.










So we are now sure the hex mex used does in fact leave us with 64% open area, but now we need to account for the restriction to airflow created by airflow turbulence as air flows through the mesh. The below data shows a 120mm fan behind different grill meshes. Problem is none of the meshes are as restrictive as smonkie's mesh except the black grill with small round holes in bottom chart. The next most restrictive is the last one on top chart, and it has other braces and center solid. I doubt the center makes any difference because that is where the fan motor is so no airflow there anyway, but it's still not 2mm holes in 2.5mm pitch hex mesh. But I think it is fair to assume smonkie's mesh is at least similar to this last one in first chart which is only flowing 29%. After all smonkie's mesh is 60% open area, so even if the mesh created no resistance it would only be flowing 60% of the air an open hole flows.
If airflow turbulence is causing a 50% reduction in airflow (dependent on how powerful fan ins) we would only have 20% as much airflow as open hole has.
If airlfow turbulence is causing a 25% reduction in airlfow we are down to 45%
I think we can all agree it is somewhere between 20% and 45%.









http://www.silverstonetek.com/techtalk_cont.php?area=en&tid=wh_chessis


https://www.pugetsystems.com/labs/articles/Effects-of-Grill-Patterns-on-Fan-Performance-Noise-107/

Those of us who have experimented with different grills and no grill at all know grills create a lot of airflow resisance.


----------



## kfxsti

Wellp. This kept me from adding mesh to my design.. lol thanks doyll !


----------



## smonkie

Thing is, I don't think all those rules applies to my case, as long as my warm air is not getting pushed at fast speeds and then smashing against the mesh. The warm air of my case is just flowing up unimpeded and then find a huge surface to get out. I'm not a rocket scientist, but my common sense tells me that both situations are not comparable. Air and speed presure have to be taken into account.

Anyway, a 6-8º gain in temps is all the empirical data I need to rest my case: the Evolv would get have huge temp improvement with an open hole on top.


----------



## Tech22

Considering the Phanteks Enthoo Elite for a dual loop system. Looking at the spec sheet it shows I can have a 560 in the front. Can I have a 60mm thick push/pull 480 on the bottom at the same time as well as a slim 480 on the top all with the 560 in the front?


----------



## Tech22

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *attakkann1*
> 
> hi i want to buy p400 or p400s .im going to build my first pc which is ryzen.
> i bought entry lvl mobo so it have 1 chasis fan and 1 sys fan port.thats why i want p400s cuz of fan controller.but i cant find anything about that controller how many fans can i connect am i need extra cable(like y cable or somethig)
> 
> ibought 2 corsair ml 120 fan which i want to use front of case.
> 
> can someone take picture of the fan controller conneter to show me how it will connect ?
> 
> i bought all part execpt case.


I have the p400s. The fan controller is just a button on the front I/O that has 3 X 3 pin splitters attached to it and requires sata power. If your fans are 4-Pin ones they will not work with the 'controller.' Still a very easy case to build in but the included RGB strip is really bad and difficult to setup when plugging into the front I/O. Keep this in mind, I experienced this when I was building for a friend in that case.


----------



## hurricane28

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Sorry, but "you air runs nice and unimpeded thrugh it" is not at all true. Air flowing around the mesh creates a lot of turbulence and this turbulence greatly restricts airflow.
> True, your 60% guess was not far off for hex mesh. Round hole much is much more restrictive and that is what I was guessing it was because nothing was said about it being hex mesh.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So we are now sure the hex mex used does in fact leave us with 64% open area, but now we need to account for the restriction to airflow created by airflow turbulence as air flows through the mesh. The below data shows a 120mm fan behind different grill meshes. Problem is none of the meshes are as restrictive as smonkie's mesh except the black grill with small round holes in bottom chart. The next most restrictive is the last one on top chart, and it has other braces and center solid. I doubt the center makes any difference because that is where the fan motor is so no airflow there anyway, but it's still not 2mm holes in 2.5mm pitch hex mesh. But I think it is fair to assume smonkie's mesh is at least similar to this last one in first chart which is only flowing 29%. After all smonkie's mesh is 60% open area, so even if the mesh created no resistance it would only be flowing 60% of the air an open hole flows.
> If airflow turbulence is causing a 50% reduction in airflow (dependent on how powerful fan ins) we would only have 20% as much airflow as open hole has.
> If airlfow turbulence is causing a 25% reduction in airlfow we are down to 45%
> I think we can all agree it is somewhere between 20% and 45%.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.silverstonetek.com/techtalk_cont.php?area=en&tid=wh_chessis
> 
> 
> https://www.pugetsystems.com/labs/articles/Effects-of-Grill-Patterns-on-Fan-Performance-Noise-107/
> 
> Those of us who have experimented with different grills and no grill at all know grills create a lot of airflow resisance.






Yeah , this is why i don't like dust filters in general but as i life in a dusty environment i need them unfortunately. I must say that the dust filters on my Phanteks enthoo Luxe tempered glass are doing an fantastic job compared to my previous Corsair cases.

Also, it doesn't take a scientist to understand that dist filters are restrictive but its always nice to know the difference between them.


----------



## hurricane28

A couple of days ago i got an email from Phanteks that they will ship my new glass side panel to replace my scratched one in week 25. It took them forever but they finally gave me something solid. As cherry on top of the cake, they will send me this LED kit as a gift because i had to wait this long! This shows me how committed and integer they are with their customers.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kfxsti*
> 
> Wellp. This kept me from adding mesh to my design.. lol thanks doyll !


I use mesh on mine, but I use large hole hex design .. think it's22 gauge perforated plain steel. 1/4" hexagon holes with 9/32" staggered centers so it's not very restrictive.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smonkie*
> 
> Thing is, I don't think all those rules applies to my case, as long as my warm air is not getting pushed at fast speeds and then smashing against the mesh. The warm air of my case is just flowing up unimpeded and then find a huge surface to get out. I'm not a rocket scientist, but my common sense tells me that both situations are not comparable. Air and speed presure have to be taken into account.
> 
> Anyway, a 6-8º gain in temps is all the empirical data I need to rest my case: the Evolv would get have huge temp improvement with an open hole on top.


And you have a magic unicorn hiding somewhere?








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> 
> Yeah , this is why i don't like dust filters in general but as i life in a dusty environment i need them unfortunately. I must say that the dust filters on my Phanteks enthoo Luxe tempered glass are doing an fantastic job compared to my previous Corsair cases.
> 
> Also, it doesn't take a scientist to understand that dist filters are restrictive but its always nice to know the difference between them.


I like just filters and grills a lot more than kids fingers or puppy dog tails stuck into fans and dust everywhere inside of system.







I agree, the Phanteks filters do a good job without being too restrictive .. and the stock fans are powerful enough to move a good amount of air through stock grill and filter.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> A couple of days ago i got an email from Phanteks that they will ship my new glass side panel to replace my scratched one in week 25. It took them forever but they finally gave me something solid. As cherry on top of the cake, they will send me this LED kit as a gift because i had to wait this long! This shows me how committed and integer they are with their customers.


Phanteks support is almost always good. But sometimes it does take them a little longer than some like. I'm sure with Computex some customer support issues got set aside until after the show.


----------



## smonkie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> And you have a magic unicorn hiding somewhere?












And yes, Phanteks fans are good, but that is useless if there's not enough cold air to suck by them. Being so close to the fans, front panel is also extremely restrictive. Without front panel you should expect a 4-5º drop in the same tests.

A great workaround for this issue is using Phanteks' long screws included and some rubber washers (I used the ones of the Evolv's hard drives cages). Two or three in each screw, and the front panel will gain 1-2cm of pure cold air. At least.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smonkie*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And yes, Phanteks fans are good, but that is useless if there's not enough cold air to suck by them. Being so close to the fans, front panel is also extremely restrictive. Without front panel you should expect a 4-5º drop in the same tests.
> 
> A great workaround for this issue is using Phanteks' long screws included and some rubber washers (I used the ones of the Evolv's hard drives cages). Two or three in each screw, and the front panel will gain 1-2cm of pure cold air. At least.


I find it funny because I experimented for several days to see what front spacing did. I found little to no change with stock front panel position to being spaced out as far as long screws would space it. I only found flow improved when front panel started reaching out in front of casa side panels .. probably because until front panel is move out in front of case sides the airflow area does not increase, only the space between inner panel with filter and front panel .. which does not change overall airflow area because there is significantly more airflow area between fan and case front than then there is area between front panel and sides / top & bottom.

But maybe your unicorn is spinning it's horn and magically increasing front airflow like it does "warm air of my case is just flowing up unimpeded" moving air through grills like they are no resistance.









The faster the air is moving the more it can be disrupted and slowed down by anything that gets in it's way. The pressure the kind of fans we use builds is minuscule. Their pressure differential is less than the difference in pressure we experience standing with our toes in the ocean and standing 30' above the ocean on dock.

What is "pure cool air"? Something out of unicorn back end? I try to supply my computer components with a little more airflow at room ambient temp than component uses. I set case fan curves to match component fan curves so the flow of case changes in unison with component. I've found this to keep turbulence to a minimum thereby keeping cool air flowing into case, to component, through component and out of case .. often without the use of exhaust fans. I only use exhaust fans to draw air into a different flow path than case is flowing without fan. Sometimes they help flow and improve cool airflow to components (as long a no unicorns pass air or stick their horns in) and interrupting the cool and quiet flow through case.


----------



## smonkie

Hey, don't blame my unicorn if you are not capable enough to understand a very basic test, and do it right:






I guess these guy's temps are also somehow affected by your unicorn.









Anyway, you should try it again. But don't hurry. There are 4 screws -do it right. Just examine all the charts you need before.


----------



## Melcar

So I have been experimenting with fan setups on my new Enthoo Pro. Discovered that I really need an intake fan in front of my NH-D15. Right now I have a 140mm fan as top intake mounted in the center (as forward as possible). I don't really like top fans and would rather cover up the entire top panel since it reduces noise by a substantial amount. I was thinking a 5.25" bay fan. Has anyone tried replacing the front bay covers with mesh covers?


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smonkie*
> 
> Hey, don't blame my unicorn if you are not capable enough to understand a very basic test, and do it right:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I guess these guy's temps are also somehow affected by your unicorn.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anyway, you should try it again. But don't hurry. There are 4 screws -do it right. Just examine all the charts you need before.


I don't use boobyoutube.. and that one was long ago.
Notice how far in front of case his spacing sets front cover making it look really stupid.
I don't believe in your unicorns.


----------



## smonkie

So according to doyll, thermodynamics don't work because:

1) He doesn't use Youtube.

2) The case looks ugly.

I didn't expect a win this easy.

I hope you learned a lesson today. Now go and try to repeat the test you did so shamefully wrong, and come back to post your -new- impressions on the subject. And next time, have a little respect for other users.


----------



## kevindd992002

@doyll

Just curious, why do you end up having aggressive arguments with almost everyone that you try to help?


----------



## smonkie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> @doyll
> 
> Just curious, why do you end up having aggressive arguments with almost everyone that you try to help?


That explains everything.

His first message replying me was:

"_So you cut a nice big vent in the top and then put in mesh that blocks 70% of it's area and restricts airflow by 85-90%. I guess it's better than no vent_.







"

I wouldn't really call it a great help. Actually, it's almost as if he was calling me dumb.

Anyway, he got schooled and that's all that matters.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> @doyll
> 
> Just curious, why do you end up having aggressive arguments with almost everyone that you try to help?


Probably because I have a low threshold for identity then tea's.


----------



## pez

But that front panel mod does look entirely stupid. Why spend the cash on a case that's aesthetics first to make it look like you should have bought a Pro M in the first place?


----------



## Mhazz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> I don't use boobyoutube.. and that one was long ago.
> Notice how far in front of case his spacing sets front cover making it look really stupid.
> I don't believe in your unicorns.


Looks stupid like resting the top on its clips instead of fixing it in its holes? Like you advise everyone to do? Yeah.

I do not put your science in question, just your obstinacy
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Here is a quick guide to Evolv ATX top "conversion" from screwed on to clipped on as well as blocking openings in radiator bracke
> 
> 
> 
> Edit: This is now linked in opening post.


----------



## smonkie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mhazz*
> 
> Looks stupid like resting the top on the case instead of fixing it in its holes? Like you advise everyone to do? Yeah.


I would feel terribly unsatisfied if I couldn't let the top panel rest into the screw holes.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pez*
> 
> But that front panel mod does look entirely stupid. Why spend the cash on a case that's aesthetics first to make it look like you should have bought a Pro M in the first place?


I agree, the korean guy's case looks ugly. But it proves my point: the case does benefit from moving away the front panel. I haven't moved the front that much, just ~2 cm. The case still looks good, and you can gain several degrees.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mhazz*
> 
> Looks stupid like resting the top on its clips instead of fixing it in its holes? Like you advise everyone to do? Yeah.
> 
> I do not put your science in question, just your obstinacy


So you think this




looks better than resting the top panel on it's clips that only hold it up a couple mm?

I might be obsinant, but I'm not crazy . Using extensions to move the front panel out enough to improve airflow is just plain ugly. Resting the top on it's clips does not look as clean as clipped in, but it's not even close to as ugly as that boobtube video with Styrofoam spacers.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smonkie*
> 
> So according to doyll, thermodynamics don't work because:
> 
> 1) He doesn't use Youtube.
> 
> 2) The case looks ugly.
> 
> I didn't expect a win this easy.
> 
> I hope you learned a lesson today. Now go and try to repeat the test you did so shamefully wrong, and come back to post your -new- impressions on the subject. And next time, have a little respect for other users.


1) How does not using youtube effect thermodynamics? Please explain yourself

2) Then why do you have one.









3) Then don't make it so easy to win.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smonkie*
> 
> I would feel terribly unsatisfied if I couldn't let the top panel rest into the screw holes.
> I agree, the korean guy's case looks ugly. But it proves my point: the case does benefit from moving away the front panel. I haven't moved the front that much, just ~2 cm. The case still looks good, and you can gain several degrees.


I"m sorry if I offended you. I was in kinda a bad mood when I first posted up about your grill,.. even if I am right.









Extending the front panel does almost nothing to improve airflow unless it is extended beyond the sides, and then it's truly ugly .. not to mention his idiotic use of Styrofoam. For 99% of users the front venting is not even a remote problem. The gap around the edges is more airflow vent area than it appears at first glance, and with no grill or grill mesh in it there is no restriction to i airflow.

The top venting is very limited, but still enough for a 240mm radiator, but all the unused openings in mounting tray need to be sealed so none of the heated air coming out of radiator can leak back into motherboard compartment.

I hope you all know most of this is joking around, so don't take it too seriously.


----------



## Mhazz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> So you think this
> 
> 
> 
> 
> looks better than resting the top panel on it's clips that only hold it up a couple mm?
> 
> I might be obsinant, but I'm not crazy . Using extensions to move the front panel out enough to improve airflow is just plain ugly. Resting the top on it's clips does not look as clean as clipped in, but it's not even close to as ugly as that boobtube video with Styrofoam spacers.


Yeah it's a bit too much, doesn't look that good at the end, but it's worth trying to improve airflow a bit with a thinner "spacer" applied to the front panel.

I did it myself, with some cork I have, I put 5-8mm no more but I don't know if it's improving the airflow. At least in my head it is


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smonkie*
> 
> I would feel terribly unsatisfied if I couldn't let the top panel rest into the screw holes.
> I agree, the korean guy's case looks ugly. But it proves my point: the case does benefit from moving away the front panel. I haven't moved the front that much, just ~2 cm. The case still looks good, and you can gain several degrees.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mhazz*
> 
> Yeah it's a bit too much, doesn't look that good at the end, but it's worth trying to improve airflow a bit with a thinner "spacer" applied to the front panel.
> 
> I did it myself, with some cork I have, I put 5-8mm no more but I don't know if it's improving the airflow. At least in my head it is


LOL. As long as we imagine it's working it must be.









I'm liking some of the vent mods being made to the front and top panels. I saw one with round holes 2 different sizes in both front and top that looks interesting .. but I can't find any pics of it now.








Edit, found it


----------



## smonkie

I would rather prefer having the korean mod's to that Gruyère Evolv.









It looks like it survived a terrorist attack.


----------



## Blaze0303

Just picked up a tempered glass Evolv ATX yesterday. Loving this case so far.


----------



## kfxsti

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smonkie*
> 
> I would rather prefer having the korean mod's to that Gruyère Evolv.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It looks like it survived a terrorist attack.


Atleast my mod is functional and I have gotten multiple requests to do this to other members panels.. so please by all means .. use spacers and have your case looking like a desk drawer.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kfxsti*
> 
> Atleast my mod is functional and I have gotten multiple requests to do this to other members panels..


your round holes look much better then some that cut out a big rectangle. At least your round holes give some 'artistic merit' to the finished product. I do thing the front looks better than top because it has less holes .. the large to small ratio looks better to me.


----------



## kfxsti

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> your round holes look much better then some that cut out a big rectangle. At least your round holes give some 'artistic merit' to the finished product. I do thing the front looks better than top because it has less holes .. the large to small ratio looks better to me.


I had to put that many because of the layout we were going for. I probably could have gotten away with less holes had they been bigger. But I loved the pattern lol. It still isn't done. Just wanted to make sure that the air moved correctly, as we are working on making Hex punchouts to give it a honeycomb look. We are also playing with carbon fiber vinyl wrap to make odd illusions of honey comb.
I am able to punch holes from .25 inch to 12+ inches lol. So I have many many different punchouts to play with.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kfxsti*
> 
> I had to put that many because of the layout we were going for. I probably could have gotten away with less holes had they been bigger. But I loved the pattern lol. It still isn't done. Just wanted to make sure that the air moved correctly, as we are working on making Hex punchouts to give it a honeycomb look. We are also playing with carbon fiber vinyl wrap to make odd illusions of honey comb.
> I am able to punch holes from .25 inch to 12+ inches lol. So I have many many different punchouts to play with.


Lots of possilble patterns to be had. Will be interesting to see what they look like as hexagonal holes. Will they still be random pattern? At least it looks random now.


----------



## kfxsti

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Lots of possilble patterns to be had. Will be interesting to see what they look like as hexagonal holes. Will they still be random pattern? At least it looks random now.


Depends on airflow. The pattern was designed in a randomness shape yes. But it was for airflow.
Once I get a couple more panels in I plan on making not so random patterns depending on air flow. I want it to look good yes.. but I want correct air flow lol.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kfxsti*
> 
> Depends on airflow. The pattern was designed in a randomness shape yes. But it was for airflow.
> Once I get a couple more panels in I plan on making not so random patterns depending on air flow. I want it to look good yes.. but I want correct air flow lol.


Did you keep a record of temps and airflow before and after each hole was cut? I would be very interested in looking at that data if you have it. I have optimized case airflow many many times by monitoring case airflow temps at different places in the case, then moving cables, adding baffles, changing fan/s speed/s adjusting fan speed to to get the optimum airflow, but I have not done much with vent placement.


----------



## kfxsti

I just recorded a week's worth of gaming and benching with panels off. Then started with a few holes after doing smoke traces. Finding for sure where the air would be pulling from.. I am currently swapping out the stock 140s in the front with different 120s to see if I shot my self in the foot by making this pattern for a 140 setup on the front. As I am running 120s on top the design on top should be ok... Unless the 120s impact the air flow in the case that much.


----------



## smonkie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kfxsti*
> 
> Atleast my mod is functional and I have gotten multiple requests to do this to other members panels.. so please by all means .. use spacers and have your case looking like a desk drawer.


I don't like the desk drawer neither. Anyway, I already know how functional a front panel mod would be: ~3º, aprox, because without the front panel you gain around 5º. So if you ask me, 3º is not that much of a difference to destroy the most beautiful part of the tower.

Aesthetics wise, I just don't like the chaotic pattern and sizes of the holes. It really looks unbalanced. But hey, you are the one who has to like it.









At least you know what you are doing and you know what you are talking about. I respect that.


----------



## kfxsti

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smonkie*
> 
> I don't like the desk drawer neither. Anyway, I already know how functional a front panel mod would be: ~3º, aprox, because without the front panel you gain around 5º. So if you ask me, 3º is not that much of a difference to destroy the most beautiful part of the tower.
> 
> Aesthetics wise, I just don't like the chaotic pattern and sizes of the holes. It really looks unbalanced. But hey, you are the one who has to like it.


You like what you like as a desk drawer. And others along with myself like the chaotic test pattern. GG. Especially only thinking that a 5+- is all you drop.. I dropped anywhere depending on ambient 8-16° , idle was around (5-8 alone) please don't reference YouTube to me. As I also tested with proper spacers not styrofoam
(moving the panels out as far as an 1+ inches , stock and with the holes for weeks)
And I promise I'm not passing this all along as being a douche. But testing is testing. And I have done enough to know where holes need to be.

Not really chaotic . Just placed in a specific area for testing .


----------



## smonkie

I think I was being clear when I say "front mod", not "all the mod".

The top spacing is rather ugly too.







Why you bother in cutting holes if you already gave the case that much of space in the top?


----------



## kfxsti

Your clearity hasn't been looked at quiet closely after bashing Doyll and saying he was schooled based off your YouTube testing lol


----------



## smonkie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kfxsti*
> 
> Your clearity hasn't been looked at quiet closely after bashing Doyll and saying he was schooled based off your YouTube testing lol


I guess my word or that korean guy's word is worth less than yours. And that's because... wait, why exactly?


----------



## kfxsti

Not really a care in my eyes tbh. I tested. Will continue to test. End of story.


----------



## harrisonk

I know there was testing on 'fan grills' posted by doyll earlier in this thread, but i'm curious how the grill pattern impacts airflow and fan noise as distance from the fan increases. in my case specifically, my fans will be behind my radiator, pulling air into the case. the resistance from the radiator is what's going to create the most noise, and i _suspect_ that whatever i do on the front of the case isn't going to have a significant impact on the airflow noise.

Anyways, the purpose of my curiosity has to do with the pattern of the holes used to increase airflow in the top/front panels. MNPCTech had a grill a while back that matched this pattern I think, but I can't find it now. I did find a 3d model that seems similar though.



on the front, a lateral slot like this would mirror the power LED, and you could do a 45* corner to fit with the shape of the case. just a thought on possible vent patterns.


----------



## kfxsti

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *harrisonk*
> 
> I know there was testing on 'fan grills' posted by doyll earlier in this thread, but i'm curious how the grill pattern impacts airflow and fan noise as distance from the fan increases. in my case specifically, my fans will be behind my radiator, pulling air into the case. the resistance from the radiator is what's going to create the most noise, and i _suspect_ that whatever i do on the front of the case isn't going to have a significant impact on the airflow noise.
> 
> Anyways, the purpose of my curiosity has to do with the pattern of the holes used to increase airflow in the top/front panels. MNPCTech had a grill a while back that matched this pattern I think, but I can't find it now. I did find a 3d model that seems similar though.
> 
> 
> 
> on the front, a lateral slot like this would mirror the power LED, and you could do a 45* corner to fit with the shape of the case. just a thought on possible vent patterns.


I can give this a whirl once my new panels come in


----------



## eXistencelies

So you can now preorder from ModMyMods for the top panel for the Evolv ATX. They want $80 plus $16+ for shipping. They will not take your old panel as a core or anything. Kinda over priced, imo. That is just for the top panel. They are working the front now and I wouldn't be surprised if it was the same price. So $200 to mod the top and front when the case costs just at much.


----------



## nycgtr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eXistencelies*
> 
> So you can now preorder from ModMyMods for the top panel for the Evolv ATX. They want $80 plus $16+ for shipping. They will not take your old panel as a core or anything. Kinda over priced, imo. That is just for the top panel. They are working the front now and I wouldn't be surprised if it was the same price. So $200 to mod the top and front when the case costs just at much.


If you sent the top in yourself it would cost you at least 10 for shipping. I sent mine in to be cut differently from NYC to rochester, within the same state and plain old ground shipping I paid 10 dollars and I had a box and packing material already.The top is 20 dollars from phanteks. You minus 20 from the cost and your looking at 60 dollars for cnc and the mesh installed. That's not a bad price at all. If they took your top your really just saving 10 dollars if you sent your own? I can understand why they don't accept the old one not everyone's top is mint and if someone were to argue their's was sent mint etc it could create issues.


----------



## Khr1s

Hi guys, long time Phanteks Evolv user (original mATX). Has anyone figured out if the TG left panel from the new Evolv mATX fits in our case?
It has pretty similar hinges. The only problem that I can think is the magnet but I will solve it easily.


----------



## geriatricpollywog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smonkie*
> 
> Yo missed one reason: ... or they are going for silence. And I make this clear: this case is not for silence, not if you want decent temps. Prior to my mod I tried everything possible: I covered the top holes in the ventilation grill, I use even longer screws than the ones included for the front panel to separate even further, and even had to resign and rise the chassis fans to avoid the heat building inside my case. But I was still reaching 77ºCPU/78º GPU temps, and I was not that comfortable with those temps. Summer is coming and it's not cold here in Spain.
> 
> With my mod, I rarely see the CPU going above 70º, and the GPU stays at 74º rock solid (and that's with 26º ambient). Also, the glass is not near fusion melt point when I touch it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And ofc, with a near silent configuration.
> 
> If you are looking for both silence and temps, a 5-6º improvement for a 10€ mod is well worth imho. And it looks great live.


What is silent? 1000 rpm? 900? 800?


----------



## smonkie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0451*
> 
> What is silent? 1000 rpm? 900? 800?


In my opinion, anything below 800rpm in idle.

But I'm using 600rpm atm in my Dh15 right now.


----------



## Rilenz

Hey guys, new on here, am looking at buying a p400 tempered glass as they seem to tick all the right boxes for what am after, 1 concern is that I have a H80i V2 cooler and wondering if the radiator will actually fit on the rear as an exhaust and still be able to fit the glass on? My current corsair spec 03 case will not shut on the top left because of its size.. thanks in advance for any help


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rilenz*
> 
> Hey guys, new on here, am looking at buying a p400 tempered glass as they seem to tick all the right boxes for what am after, 1 concern is that I have a H80i V2 cooler and wondering if the radiator will actually fit on the rear as an exhaust and still be able to fit the glass on? My current corsair spec 03 case will not shut on the top left because of its size.. thanks in advance for any help


What case are you now using?
H80i V2 is 154mm x 123mm x 49mm, P400 TG has 130mm from I/O opening to side panel mounting plate and 15mm centerline fan mounting holes to case side mounting surface. Those measurements indicate there should be about 3mm of clearance.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smonkie*
> 
> In my opinion, anything below 800rpm in idle.
> 
> But I'm using 600rpm atm in my Dh15 right now.


For 500-600 idle is as slow as I use. Anything less and system ends up running warmer surfing the web than when working.. 900-1000rpm is system working hard.


----------



## Rilenz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> What case are you now using?
> H80i V2 is 154mm x 123mm x 49mm, P400 TG has 130mm from I/O opening to side panel mounting plate and 15mm centerline fan mounting holes to case side mounting surface. Those measurements indicate there should be about 3mm of clearance.


----------



## Rilenz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rilenz*


Thanks for replying doyll, it's the corsair spec 03 I'm using at mo, just been looking at builds with the h80iv2 in the p400 and it seems to fit no bother, will go ahead and buy it.. thanks alot for that pal


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rilenz*
> 
> Thanks for replying doyll, it's the corsair spec 03 I'm using at mo, just been looking at builds with the h80iv2 in the p400 and it seems to fit no bother, will go ahead and buy it.. thanks alot for that pal


Glad to help. Wife got all bent because I put case on bed .. like a nice clean case was going to hurt / soils the bedding.








Me and my dog will be in my shop for the rest of the day. She can take out her hostilities on her cat.


----------



## geriatricpollywog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smonkie*
> 
> In my opinion, anything below 800rpm in idle.
> 
> But I'm using 600rpm atm in my Dh15 right now.


Mine are at a constant 50% PWM which is about 800 or 850 rpm (I'd have to check) and my GPU tops out at 40 C during extended gaming or mining. My CPU tops out at 70ish depending on clock speed. Its running at 5 ghz, but its significantly hotter at 5.2 ghz. The best indicator of cooling performance is water temp delta T. My sensor is broken, but my delta T was 10-12 with fans at 50% PWM. Removing the top panel doesn't seem to help in my case, but it may reduce temps my an amount that's measurable but not noticeable.

Again, there are ways to cool this case without cutting the top panel if you know what you are doing.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0451*
> 
> Mine are at a constant 50% PWM which is about 800 or 850 rpm (I'd have to check) and my GPU tops out at 40 C during extended gaming or mining. My CPU tops out at 70ish depending on clock speed. Its running at 5 ghz, but its significantly hotter at 5.2 ghz. The best indicator of cooling performance is water temp delta T. My sensor is broken, but my delta T was 10-12 with fans at 50% PWM. Removing the top panel doesn't seem to help in my case, but it may reduce temps my an amount that's measurable but not noticeable.
> 
> Again, there are ways to cool this case without cutting the top panel if you know what you are doing.


You are exactly right. If you design the cooling system based on the case, the cooling performance is fine. Rads optimized for low speed fans, only the amount of rads actually needed, sealing off the top rad, choosing fans by performance in the given application rather than their lighting or color rings, etc. goes a long way. A 360 GTS has no problem keeping low temps at low fan speeds on my 4790K/1080 OC with a Delta T of 12C or less running stress tests.


----------



## geriatricpollywog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> You are exactly right. If you design the cooling system based on the case, the cooling performance is fine. Rads optimized for low speed fans, only the amount of rads actually needed, sealing off the top rad, choosing fans by performance in the given application rather than their lighting or color rings, etc. goes a long way. A 360 GTS has no problem keeping low temps at low fan speeds on my 4790K/1080 OC with a Delta T of 12C or less running stress tests.


It's much easier to blame the case than to admit you did not put together a effective cooling system and give it another try.

Sealing the front and top chambers is key. OEM midtower computers are built with airflow in mind and are sealed in creative places to create a path for the air.


----------



## doyll

What ciarlatano and 0451 said.


----------



## bluerunner182

I have a Ryzen 1800X in a Phanteks Enthoo Evolv ATX TG, in which the idle temps get into the high 50s. I have made my fan profile more aggressive, but I was wondering if the case was inhibiting effective cooling. Browsing through this thread, it seems that the general consensus is to block off the top of the case if it is being unused (i am using a Noctua NH-D15). What is the most effective way to close off the portions of the case that restrict cooling, and with what materials?

Sorry if this has been addressed earlier, I am pretty new here


----------



## geriatricpollywog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bluerunner182*
> 
> I have a Ryzen 1800X in a Phanteks Enthoo Evolv ATX TG, in which the idle temps get into the high 50s. I have made my fan profile more aggressive, but I was wondering if the case was inhibiting effective cooling. Browsing through this thread, it seems that the general consensus is to block off the top of the case if it is being unused (i am using a Noctua NH-D15). What is the most effective way to close off the portions of the case that restrict cooling, and with what materials?
> 
> Sorry if this has been addressed earlier, I am pretty new here


If you are using an air cooler, then just fill the case with fans an you'll be good. It comes with 3x Phanteks MP140 fans. Add 3x 120mm fans to the top of the case.


----------



## bluerunner182

I thought there was a difference between good airflow and just pushing more air into the case? I saw a diagram which instructed people to close off the vents towards the top of the case, but I have not seen many examples of people just adding in more fans. Would it work well?


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bluerunner182*
> 
> I have a Ryzen 1800X in a Phanteks Enthoo Evolv ATX TG, in which the idle temps get into the high 50s. I have made my fan profile more aggressive, but I was wondering if the case was inhibiting effective cooling. Browsing through this thread, it seems that the general consensus is to block off the top of the case if it is being unused (i am using a Noctua NH-D15). What is the most effective way to close off the portions of the case that restrict cooling, and with what materials?
> 
> Sorry if this has been addressed earlier, I am pretty new here


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bluerunner182*
> 
> I thought there was a difference between good airflow and just pushing more air into the case? I saw a diagram which instructed people to close off the vents towards the top of the case, but I have not seen many examples of people just adding in more fans. Would it work well?


There is. I don't know what 0451 is smoking, but it should be illegal.

What exactly is your system and fan layout? You may need to seal unused openings in fan moutning panel so the airflow doesn't circle back around thorugh the fans, but instead pushes on through the case / or out of the case.

You might find 'Ways to Better Cooling' linked in my sig of interest. 1st post is index, click on topic to see it 5th is a good place to start.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> There is. I don't know what 0451 is smoking, but it should be illegal.
> 
> What exactly is your system and fan layout? You may need to seal unused openings in fan moutning panel so the airflow doesn't circle back around thorugh the fans, but instead pushes on through the case / or out of the case.
> 
> You might find 'Ways to Better Cooling' linked in my sig of interest. 1st post is index, click on topic to see it 5th is a good place to start.


You beat me to it on that one. Adding three 120s up top would do nothing but recirculate warm air and make the build louder.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> You beat me to it on that one. Adding three 120s up top would do nothing but recirculate warm air and make the build louder.


Sometimes I see the light.


----------



## bluerunner182

I thought there was a difference between good airflow and just blowing more air into the case? There is a diagram that shows that you sh
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> There is. I don't know what 0451 is smoking, but it should be illegal.
> 
> What exactly is your system and fan layout? You may need to seal unused openings in fan moutning panel so the airflow doesn't circle back around thorugh the fans, but instead pushes on through the case / or out of the case.
> 
> You might find 'Ways to Better Cooling' linked in my sig of interest. 1st post is index, click on topic to see it 5th is a good place to start.


Thanks for the link, I'll browse through it. My specific system/ fan layout is as follows:
CPU: Ryzen 1800X
Mobo: MSI x370 Titanium
Cooler: Noctua NH-D15
GFX: Gigabyte GTX 970 G1 Gaming
Case: Phanteks Enthoo Evolv ATX Tempered Glass Edition

My fan layout is pretty basic, with only the fans as they are orientated in the case initially along with the Notcuta. I am thinking of adjusting the fan position of the fans in the front of the case higher, so that they direct more airflow through the case to the CPU cooler. What materials have others used to close off the empty spaces in the case? Is there something specific I would need, or maybe just some cut cardboard, etc?

Thanks for the help, I really appreciate it!


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bluerunner182*
> 
> I thought there was a difference between good airflow and just blowing more air into the case? There is a diagram that shows that you sh
> Thanks for the link, I'll browse through it. My specific system/ fan layout is as follows:
> CPU: Ryzen 1800X
> Mobo: MSI x370 Titanium
> Cooler: Noctua NH-D15
> GFX: Gigabyte GTX 970 G1 Gaming
> Case: Phanteks Enthoo Evolv ATX Tempered Glass Edition
> 
> My fan layout is pretty basic, with only the fans as they are orientated in the case initially along with the Notcuta. I am thinking of adjusting the fan position of the fans in the front of the case higher, so that they direct more airflow through the case to the CPU cooler. What materials have others used to close off the empty spaces in the case? Is there something specific I would need, or maybe just some cut cardboard, etc?
> 
> Thanks for the help, I really appreciate it!


Blocking the top of the case is specific to top mounted rads. I have run the D15S in the Evolv ATX with just the factory intake/exhaust and it has worked quite well. You have something else going on here. Bad mount, really borked fan curve, voltage issue, etc. The only time I saw idle temps that high in a similar setup....the protective plastic was left on the cooler base when it was mounted.


----------



## bluerunner182

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Blocking the top of the case is specific to top mounted rads. I have run the D15S in the Evolv ATX with just the factory intake/exhaust and it has worked quite well. You have something else going on here. Bad mount, really borked fan curve, voltage issue, etc. The only time I saw idle temps that high in a similar setup....the protective plastic was left on the cooler base when it was mounted.


But wouldn't it also apply to air coolers if they are just pushing warm air up there? My fan curve is stock, and I haven't touched the voltage at all...definitely do not have the plastic on the base of the cooler. I may just have to take it apart and see if the mount was bad? But if I am going to take it apart it would make sense for me block off the top at the same time as well, if needed


----------



## PureBlackFire

interesting thing. i had to replace 3 dead coolermaster clc (sort of, the ones that were rebrands of the first run swiftech units) coolers in the past 4 weeks. while I left one mounted in the top of a 750D, with the $10 thermaltake cooler (which is almost identical to an intel stock cooler) the idle temps were in the mid 50's and load temps in the low 80's at stock. that was better than the constant 100c temps with the dead coolermaster thing on. after I removed the 240 rad and fans from the top of the case the idle temps went down 20c to low 30's and the load temps were 10c lower peaking in the low 70's.


----------



## darronbrown

Is there a modding section around the new case from Planteks?

Just got my Phanteks Enthoo Elite in last week and have started my first serious mod / water cooling. Looking for some interesting designs and ideas. This is an awesome case!

Picture doesn't do it justice, starting with 2 dual 480mm Rads, and Noctua push/pull configurations. I have a Monsoon Reservoir / and dual D5 pumps.



Cheers,


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bluerunner182*
> 
> But wouldn't it also apply to air coolers if they are just pushing warm air up there? My fan curve is stock, and I haven't touched the voltage at all...definitely do not have the plastic on the base of the cooler. I may just have to take it apart and see if the mount was bad? But if I am going to take it apart it would make sense for me block off the top at the same time as well, if needed


Key word is "pushing" If no fans / no radiator & fans are used on the top fan / radiator tray then ti holes do not need sealing .. no fans pushing air into top means not sealing needed.


----------



## Zaen

Need a opinion guys.

My corsair GTX H100i is still giving me problems so i'm sticking with air until i have the watercooler problem figured out and solved.

Using a low/mid end cooler, Cryorig H7 with 1x120mm fan, a hassle to mount but been surprisingly effective given the Vcore i run and heat produced, but i still feel i can get it a few ºC's off it.

Current setup:

Exhaust:
1x140mm - Back

Intake:
1x200mm - Front
1x140mm - Top
1x120mm - Top

All slow moving,set to low rpm for quiet running.

Have another 120mm in front of the top HDD cage to help move air though the cages, aiming right at the GPU, from front to back. Another 140mm, perhaps 2, will be added to the top next month as intake.

Is this overkill, so much intake for only 1 exhaust?


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zaen*
> 
> Need a opinion guys.
> 
> My corsair GTX H100i is still giving me problems so i'm sticking with air until i have the watercooler problem figured out and solved.
> 
> Using a low/mid end cooler, Cryorig H7 with 1x120mm fan, a hassle to mount but been surprisingly effective given the Vcore i run and heat produced, but i still feel i can get it a few ºC's off it.
> 
> Current setup:
> 
> Exhaust:
> 1x140mm - Back
> 
> Intake:
> 1x200mm - Front
> 1x140mm - Top
> 1x120mm - Top
> 
> All slow moving,set to low rpm for quiet running.
> 
> Have another 120mm in front of the top HDD cage to help move air though the cages, aiming right at the GPU, from front to back. Another 140mm, perhaps 2, will be added to the top next month as intake.
> 
> Is this overkill, so much intake for only 1 exhaust?


_" H7 with 1x120mm fan, a hassle to mount but been surprisingly effective given the Vcore i run "_ .. in Enthoo Pro with garbage 200mm fan .. I'm sure your temps would be even lower with 2x PH-F140SP front intakes and a top tier cooler like PH-TC14PE, TRUE Spirit 140 Power, Le Grand Macho, or R1 Ultimate .. to name only a few many much more powerful coolers than H7. Don't get me wrong, H7 is a great little cooler, but it like comparing the power of a pony to a Clydesdale. The big draft horse can pull a much bigger load.


----------



## Zaen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> _" H7 with 1x120mm fan, a hassle to mount but been surprisingly effective given the Vcore i run "_ .. in Enthoo Pro with garbage 200mm fan .. I'm sure your temps would be even lower with 2x PH-F140SP front intakes and a top tier cooler like PH-TC14PE, TRUE Spirit 140 Power, Le Grand Macho, or R1 Ultimate .. to name only a few many much more powerful coolers than H7. Don't get me wrong, H7 is a great little cooler, but it like comparing the power of a pony to a Clydesdale. The big draft horse can pull a much bigger load.


I know the H7 is nothing to brag about but it's what i could get when the corsair H100i started to give me problems, we can't all buy a R1 or the PH-TC14PE (probably this would be my pick personally) on a whim. Had a problem with the watercooler and needed a quick fix and cheap one too, could have done worse. I say it surprised me because i run 1,330Vcore (BIOS, actual is 0,030V higher) with a room temp above 35ºc and temps stay in low 70's while ingame and low 80's benching, IMO it's a good performance given what i paid for it.

The 200mm front intake is something i will replace with a couple 140mm SP, red LED when i have the money, not the most pressing issue in my life, or my rig, atm.

My question was; is it overkill to have all intake and only back exhaust?


----------



## smithydan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Testing12*
> 
> Just got my Phanteks Enthoo Elite in last week and have started my first serious mod / water cooling. Looking for some interesting designs and ideas. This is an awesome case!
> 
> Cheers,


Looking for to seeing the final build.

Not agreeing with the noctuas


----------



## psygnosis

Hi guys,
I want to replace my old 1998 case with a new one (mid tower).
I'd like to take a Phanteks P400 (also if I'm pretty uncertain if I love this or the Nzxt s340, Seams that the P400 as a better air flow).
The problem is that I LOVE love love the ssd on the front of the nzxt. It's possible to do the same on the P400?


----------



## Roxycon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *psygnosis*
> 
> Hi guys,
> I want to replace my old 1998 case with a new one (mid tower).
> I'd like to take a Phanteks P400 (also if I'm pretty uncertain if I love this or the Nzxt s340, Seams that the P400 as a better air flow).
> The problem is that I LOVE love love the ssd on the front of the nzxt. It's possible to do the same on the P400?


Double sided tape


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zaen*
> 
> I know the H7 is nothing to brag about but it's what i could get when the corsair H100i started to give me problems, we can't all buy a R1 or the PH-TC14PE (probably this would be my pick personally) on a whim. Had a problem with the watercooler and needed a quick fix and cheap one too, could have done worse. I say it surprised me because i run 1,330Vcore (BIOS, actual is 0,030V higher) with a room temp above 35ºc and temps stay in low 70's while ingame and low 80's benching, IMO it's a good performance given what i paid for it.
> 
> The 200mm front intake is something i will replace with a couple 140mm SP, red LED when i have the money, not the most pressing issue in my life, or my rig, atm.
> 
> My question was; is it overkill to have all intake and only back exhaust?


My point was it's not the cooler that isn't working well, it's your case airflow.
The point is that PH-F200SP intake is doing almost no good at all.
If you want to understnad case airflow read 5th post in "Ways to Better Cooling" linked in my sig to understand airflow through cases. I often build with only intake fans .. my Enthoo Luxe has 2x PH-F140SP front intakes, 1x PH-F140SP bottom intake and no exhaust fans and unused PCIe back slot covers removed. Case is raised about 40mm off of floor on a base with 30mm casters.

Replace that garbage 200mm fan with a couple of decent fans your cooling problems will be over. I can't say it too many times .. the PH-F200SP is as close to worthless as a fan can be. Phanteks started replacing them with 2x 140mm fans long, long ago. I don't know of anyone on this forum running the PH-F200SP intake in their case.


----------



## Zaen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> My point was it's not the cooler that isn't working well, it's your case airflow.
> The point is that PH-F200SP intake is doing almost no good at all.
> If you want to understnad case airflow read 5th post in "Ways to Better Cooling" linked in my sig to understand airflow through cases. I often build with only intake fans .. my Enthoo Luxe has 2x PH-F140SP front intakes, 1x PH-F140SP bottom intake and no exhaust fans and unused PCIe back slot covers removed. Case is raised about 40mm off of floor on a base with 30mm casters.
> 
> Replace that garbage 200mm fan with a couple of decent fans your cooling problems will be over. I can't say it too many times .. the PH-F200SP is as close to worthless as a fan can be. Phanteks started replacing them with 2x 140mm fans long, long ago. I don't know of anyone on this forum running the PH-F200SP intake in their case.


I will replace it, just not now. If my watercooler AIO was working i could have done that this weekend (was my plan), but it's not, so i go with what i have. Given the case has the bottom intakes, for the most part, blocked and i have a extra PH-140SP sitting there that i'm not using due to the lack of fan headers on mobo, case fan hub broke a month ago, so i can't connect more fans before i buy more y-splitters or the fan controller for the front of the case i'm planning.

Not counting CPU headers i only have the standard 3 fan headers on mobo and already i have 5 fans working. Let next month come, or if i can work out the AIO watercooler problem, and i will have the fan controller, y-splitters and 1 or 2 more PH-140SP.









Btw i did read your entire list of posts/subjects about cooling on that thread, almost 2 years ago when i was finishing assembling this system, good work there.


----------



## dlewbell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zaen*
> 
> I will replace it, just not now. If my watercooler AIO was working i could have done that this weekend (was my plan), but it's not, so i go with what i have. Given the case has the bottom intakes, for the most part, blocked and i have a extra PH-140SP sitting there that i'm not using due to the lack of fan headers on mobo, case fan hub broke a month ago, so i can't connect more fans before i buy more y-splitters or the fan controller for the front of the case i'm planning.
> 
> Not counting CPU headers i only have the standard 3 fan headers on mobo and already i have 5 fans working. Let next month come, or if i can work out the AIO watercooler problem, and i will have the fan controller, y-splitters and 1 or 2 more PH-140SP.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Btw i did read your entire list of posts/subjects about cooling on that thread, almost 2 years ago when i was finishing assembling this system, good work there.


Looking at the system in your signature, it appears that you're using 2 SSDs & no HDDs. Is this accurate? If so, why not remove the upper HDD cage? It also sounds like you own at least 3 PH-140SP fans. If so, you might be better off removing your PH-200SP now & replacing it with 2 of the PH-140SP fans you have. You can try your 3rd one as either an intake at the top front or an exhaust on the rear or top rear, leaving it in whatever position gives the best results. I suspect any of the 3 will end up working better than your current setup, though I could be wrong.

Note, you may need to remove both HDD cages temporarily to get the 200mm fan out, & you may need to remove the fan from the HDD cage to get it out.


----------



## smonkie

A little bit more tidy:


----------



## SafeKlok

Hey guys, I could use some advice deciding on which Enthoo to go for.

I'm trying to decide between Luxe/Pro M/Evolv ATX tempered glass variants. Coming from a NZXT H440, sound isolation is quite important to me. I'll be running a Noctua cooler and not fussed about rad support or anything like that.

Any advice would be much appreciated!


----------



## Melcar

Pro M is the better one if you're talking about high performance air. The Evolve will be the best one if noise is your primary concern. The Luxe is alright as an all-purpose.


----------



## bluerunner182

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Key word is "pushing" If no fans / no radiator & fans are used on the top fan / radiator tray then ti holes do not need sealing .. no fans pushing air into top means not sealing needed.


Ahhh, I finally think I am starting to understand. Thank you for the help!


----------



## maltamonk

Does anyone know how Phanteks support is? I just bought a P400s TG case and when I unboxed it there were 2 dents in the top panel. The box and the packaging was fine so I must assume it happened during manufacturing. I emailed them within 30mins of the case being delivered.


----------



## harrisonk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *maltamonk*
> 
> Does anyone know how Phanteks support is? I just bought a P400s TG case and when I unboxed it there were 2 dents in the top panel. The box and the packaging was fine so I must assume it happened during manufacturing. I emailed them within 30mins of the case being delivered.


everything i've heard so far has been overwhelmingly good, but slow. shipping on purchased parts (out of warranty) is also far too expensive given shipping options.


----------



## Zaen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dlewbell*
> 
> Looking at the system in your signature, it appears that you're using 2 SSDs & no HDDs. Is this accurate? If so, why not remove the upper HDD cage? It also sounds like you own at least 3 PH-140SP fans. If so, you might be better off removing your PH-200SP now & replacing it with 2 of the PH-140SP fans you have. You can try your 3rd one as either an intake at the top front or an exhaust on the rear or top rear, leaving it in whatever position gives the best results. I suspect any of the 3 will end up working better than your current setup, though I could be wrong.
> 
> Note, you may need to remove both HDD cages temporarily to get the 200mm fan out, & you may need to remove the fan from the HDD cage to get it out.


Thx for that constructive reply.

Yeah i do have a few PH140SP, 1 stock and 2 with red LED. The LED ones were to replace the 200mm, i will when i can get 1 or 2 more of them and a new fan controller, as you might have read in previous posts i can't make that switch yet.

Going to remove, yet again, the top HDD bay since i truly only need 1 atm for both SSD's and a future 3 or 4TB HDD. Added the top cages to be able to direct air with a 120mm Noctua straight into the GPU PCB path to help with directing airflow to the back and ofc cool the GPU.

Last night i disconnected both of the Noctuas 120mm (top and HDD cage) and decided to leave it at only front 200mm, top 2x140mm as intake and back 140mm exhaust.

This is all temporary as i still want to fix/RMA my AIO watercooler which was very much a ideal setup on this case, in case i can't i now have some options, thx









I still think this case is unbalanced for air cooling imo. Only by removing the HDD cages and it's support base you can open up the bottom space for 2x140mm, but that would mean no HDD cage for my drives and that is a no no. Still at the bottom, the PSU cover blocks almost completely one of those 140mm bottom spaces making the bottom of this case not well thought for air cooling if you take into account that if i can't/don't use bottom as intake i'm left with front and top (and top is were i had my AIO (when working) and another 140mm as exhaust). This plus the back 140mm makes it exhaust a heck of a lot more then it intakes, since only the front is doing all the intake work.

Another way is what i have done before with top and front as intake and back as exhaust leaving the bottom blocked as it is, leaving the bottom HDD cage in place and untouched PSU cover.

What i want to end up with is the AIO radiator, 2x120mm, front intake; 3x140mm top intake and 140mm back exhaust. What i have now 200mm front intake, 2x140mm top intake and 140mm back exhaust, this was the best given the number of fan headers i have available. Perfection would be if i could use bottom as intake, and keep some sort of HDD cage, fornt as intake and top exhaust along with the back, but this is if i ever able to free the bottom and cut/drill PSU cover.


----------



## dlewbell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zaen*
> 
> Going to remove, yet again, the top HDD bay since i truly only need 1 atm for both SSD's and a future 3 or 4TB HDD. Added the top cages to be able to direct air with a 120mm Noctua straight into the GPU PCB path to help with directing airflow to the back and ofc cool the GPU.


If the only reason you installed the top HDD cage was to mount a fan to it, you're actually making the situation worse for yourself. The HDD cage will do more to restrict airflow from your intake than the 120mm mounted to it will add. If you actually needed more space for drives, it would be worth it, but if you're not using it, you're better off pulling it out.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zaen*
> 
> Only by removing the HDD cages and it's support base you can open up the bottom space for 2x140mm, but that would mean no HDD cage for my drives and that is a no no. Still at the bottom, the PSU cover blocks almost completely one of those 140mm bottom spaces making the bottom of this case not well thought for air cooling&#8230;


The bottom fan mount locations do not support 2x140mm fans. You can fit 2x120mm or 1x140mm. The case was intended to only have a single 140mm fan installed in the slotted mounting location. You can take advantage of the smaller holes towards the front (using machine screws & nuts) to install a 140mm fan in a more forward location, but it will take up too much of the slots to allow a second fan to be installed.


Spoiler: See picture for clarification.


----------



## Melcar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zaen*
> 
> Thx for that constructive reply.
> 
> Yeah i do have a few PH140SP, 1 stock and 2 with red LED. The LED ones were to replace the 200mm, i will when i can get 1 or 2 more of them and a new fan controller, as you might have read in previous posts i can't make that switch yet.
> 
> Going to remove, yet again, the top HDD bay since i truly only need 1 atm for both SSD's and a future 3 or 4TB HDD. Added the top cages to be able to direct air with a 120mm Noctua straight into the GPU PCB path to help with directing airflow to the back and ofc cool the GPU.
> 
> Last night i disconnected both of the Noctuas 120mm (top and HDD cage) and decided to leave it at only front 200mm, top 2x140mm as intake and back 140mm exhaust.
> 
> This is all temporary as i still want to fix/RMA my AIO watercooler which was very much a ideal setup on this case, in case i can't i now have some options, thx
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I still think this case is unbalanced for air cooling imo. Only by removing the HDD cages and it's support base you can open up the bottom space for 2x140mm, but that would mean no HDD cage for my drives and that is a no no. Still at the bottom, the PSU cover blocks almost completely one of those 140mm bottom spaces making the bottom of this case not well thought for air cooling if you take into account that if i can't/don't use bottom as intake i'm left with front and top (and top is were i had my AIO (when working) and another 140mm as exhaust). This plus the back 140mm makes it exhaust a heck of a lot more then it intakes, since only the front is doing all the intake work.
> 
> Another way is what i have done before with top and front as intake and back as exhaust leaving the bottom blocked as it is, leaving the bottom HDD cage in place and untouched PSU cover.
> 
> What i want to end up with is the AIO radiator, 2x120mm, front intake; 3x140mm top intake and 140mm back exhaust. What i have now 200mm front intake, 2x140mm top intake and 140mm back exhaust, this was the best given the number of fan headers i have available. Perfection would be if i could use bottom as intake, and keep some sort of HDD cage, fornt as intake and top exhaust along with the back, but this is if i ever able to free the bottom and cut/drill PSU cover.


The Enthoo Pro seems to be more for water cooling, at least to me. Lots of options for mounting rads and other WC accessories. For top end air with heavy duty OCs you need a good layout for unobstructed front to back airflow, which is not the case with the stock Enthoo Pro. Sure, you can remove things, but my guess is one gets such a case for the "stock" look and functionality.
Really, the only viable intakes you have are the two front vents, which even with the drive cages installed do a pretty good job of cooling the lower half of your rig. For the CPU you don't have much. Fans at the bottom won't do much for the CPU way up top; besides, the case is only 30cm above ground and the bottom vents have this silly metal grill with circular patterns (makes high airflow fans really noisy), not to mention the PSU shroud which you may not want to remove. The only option is top intakes on the top panel. That in itself poses problems:
1. Leaving the top open lets out a fair amount of noise (nearly the entire top panel is open).
2. The top filter, while restrictive, does not seem to be as effective in blocking dust compared to the front and bottom filters, not to mention that it's not easily removable.
Another option would be a bay fan, but you will have to either get mesh covers for your 5.25" slots or fashion a mesh cover for the front.

Right now I have two PH-F140MPs as front intakes. I only need one HDD cage, but I chose to keep both of them installed because the whole HDD cage assembly seems rather flimsy to me unless you have both of them screwed in place. I have a PH-F120MP behind the top drive cage as a helper fan synced to the GPU temps. An additional PH-F140MP as intake on the top panel (as forward and as close to the front of the NH-D15 intake as I could install it). I did end up covering the rest of the top panel with thin cardboard to block off noise and minimize dust intake. Not thrilled about that top fan, but it's all I can manage at the moment. Temps. are really good this way for the CPU, but dust build up will be a problem.


----------



## harrisonk

Hey guys, 2 questions (well, 1 question, and a request for feedback).

I posted over on the Evolv water cooling thread, but I figured the feedback here since there's a little bit more traffic in this thread. Here's the mockup of my mATX top panel (yes, *mATX*, not ATX). I'd like feedback on the design. I spare you the background/objectives, you can checkout my post in the watercooling thread if you'd like to see that.



The vent openings match the edge vents on the top panel. Obviously the front vent opening layout removes the factory power button, replaced by a pair of RGB anti-vandal switches for power and reset. They're backed by some gloss black acrylic with the top edges mitered at the same angle as the top panel edges. I'd like to cover the vent holes using 4.5mm hex mesh, and here's where my question comes in.

*Where are you guys sourcing your mesh? Are there any sources for this stuff in North America?*

So far, I've only found one source online for 4.5mm mesh, but they're in the UK and the shipping is going to cost just as much as the material. I have a local metal shop that I'm going to swing by next week to see if they can help me out, but figured I'd ask here first.


----------



## darronbrown

Hi, yes, they have different types at Home Depot and Lowes, Hobby Lobby has some interesting materials also. You can go nylon small mesh to larger plastic mesh from any of these locations.

Link to one example:
http://www.homedepot.com/p/M-D-Building-Products-36-in-x-36-in-Small-Hole-Aluminum-Sheet-in-Black-84327/205058566?cm_mmc=Shopping%7cTHD%7cG%7c0%7cG-BASE-PLA-D25H-Hardware%7c&gclid=CjwKEAjwj6PKBRCAy9-07PeTtGgSJAC1P9xGmWawB1g8XR-PWhVuDwcgOfdWKTX3Out3hmNkXGi7WRoC8Frw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds

Hope this helps!

Cheers,
Darron


----------



## harrisonk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *harrisonk*
> 
> *Where are you guys sourcing your mesh? Are there any sources for this stuff in North America?*


okay, seems I've answered my own question. my issue has been that i'm searching 'mesh' which inherently means 'woven' materials in the metal fab world. as soon as i started searching 'perforated metal', then i got search results.


http://www.mcnichols.com/ecommerce/eos/itemDetail?itemNumber=17642732M2&navCode=cc:hex

http://www.metalsdepot.com/products/hrsteel2.phtml?page=perforated%20steel%20sheet&LimAcc=%20&aident=

I've found both aluminium and steel options, but both cost as much, or MORE once shipped at a minimum quantity as the source from the UK. I'll need to give this some thought now. 4.5mm is 3/16, which is only fractionally smaller than 1/4", but visually, i think it's quite a significant difference.


----------



## Zaen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Melcar*
> 
> The Enthoo Pro seems to be more for water cooling, at least to me. Lots of options for mounting rads and other WC accessories. For top end air with heavy duty OCs you need a good layout for unobstructed front to back airflow, which is not the case with the stock Enthoo Pro. Sure, you can remove things, but my guess is one gets such a case for the "stock" look and functionality.
> Really, the only viable intakes you have are the two front vents, which even with the drive cages installed do a pretty good job of cooling the lower half of your rig. For the CPU you don't have much. Fans at the bottom won't do much for the CPU way up top; besides, the case is only 30cm above ground and the bottom vents have this silly metal grill with circular patterns (makes high airflow fans really noisy), not to mention the PSU shroud which you may not want to remove. The only option is top intakes on the top panel. That in itself poses problems:
> 1. Leaving the top open lets out a fair amount of noise (nearly the entire top panel is open).
> 2. The top filter, while restrictive, does not seem to be as effective in blocking dust compared to the front and bottom filters, not to mention that it's not easily removable.
> Another option would be a bay fan, but you will have to either get mesh covers for your 5.25" slots or fashion a mesh cover for the front.
> 
> Right now I have two PH-F140MPs as front intakes. I only need one HDD cage, but I chose to keep both of them installed because the whole HDD cage assembly seems rather flimsy to me unless you have both of them screwed in place. I have a PH-F120MP behind the top drive cage as a helper fan synced to the GPU temps. An additional PH-F140MP as intake on the top panel (as forward and as close to the front of the NH-D15 intake as I could install it). I did end up covering the rest of the top panel with thin cardboard to block off noise and minimize dust intake. Not thrilled about that top fan, but it's all I can manage at the moment. Temps. are really good this way for the CPU, but dust build up will be a problem.


Thx for that input m8









Your considered options and concerns are also mine. One option you didn't mention, but i believe is possible with ease, is to remove everything HDD cage related and use "drawer" like adapters for HDD in the 5,25" bays making the bottom a bit more useful. True the PSU cover will still block one of the 2 possible bottom fans, and that would have to be removed, drilled or cut off to allow a more free flowing upstream of air.








This would be ideal with my watercooler AIO at the top as exhaust, if i ever get it to work properly again, that is one thing i need to try out. This would be, imo, the ideal setup in this case, front and bottom with 140mm fans as intake. Even if the 2x140mm won't fit at the bottom (almost sure they do) and have to go with 2x120mm it will be about the same airflow as exhaust at the top and back, 2x120mm from the AIO watercooler and 1x140mm at the top and another 140mm at the back for exhaust.









Modding the 5,25" bay is something in my mind but i need to see how the fan controller i'm buying next month, that goes in one of those bays, fits and what free space will be left. As long as i can fit there 1 or 2 SSD's and one HDD i will be going for it and free up the bottom for more intake.


----------



## Melcar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zaen*
> 
> Thx for that input m8
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Your considered options and concerns are also mine. One option you didn't mention, but i believe is possible with ease, is to remove everything HDD cage related and use "drawer" like adapters for HDD in the 5,25" bays making the bottom a bit more useful. True the PSU cover will still block one of the 2 possible bottom fans, and that would have to be removed, drilled or cut off to allow a more free flowing upstream of air.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This would be ideal with my watercooler AIO at the top as exhaust, if i ever get it to work properly again, that is one thing i need to try out. This would be, imo, the ideal setup in this case, front and bottom with 140mm fans as intake. Even if the 2x140mm won't fit at the bottom (almost sure they do) and have to go with 2x120mm it will be about the same airflow as exhaust at the top and back, 2x120mm from the AIO watercooler and 1x140mm at the top and another 140mm at the back for exhaust.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Modding the 5,25" bay is something in my mind but i need to see how the fan controller i'm buying next month, that goes in one of those bays, fits and what free space will be left. As long as i can fit there 1 or 2 SSD's and one HDD i will be going for it and free up the bottom for more intake.


Been thinking about ditching about HDD cages too. They are a pain to work with anyway. I have one of those 5.25" to 3.5" converter boxes that I can fit inside the top bay (takes three slots) and put all my drives there. I'm just afraid my drives will cook up there. Another option would be to get rid of my single 3.5" storage drive and swap it for a smaller laptop drive, then use the 2.5" drive mounts. With both those options I can get rid of the HDD cages and just have the entire lower half of the case open.
As for the bottom intakes, I think you can very well fit 2x140mm fans there. One option is to just use a round frame fan with 120mm fan mounts. Another option is to use zipties to tie both fans together, so that only one fan needs to be screwed in. I would still lift the case a bit more (10mm extra at least) to allow proper airflow from higher speed fans.


----------



## maltamonk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *maltamonk*
> 
> Does anyone know how Phanteks support is? I just bought a P400s TG case and when I unboxed it there were 2 dents in the top panel. The box and the packaging was fine so I must assume it happened during manufacturing. I emailed them within 30mins of the case being delivered.


Update: Had an email exchange with CS this morning and they are sending a new top panel for the case. Turn out thier CS is quite good


----------



## brian-phanteks

PowerComboFAQ.pdf 604k .pdf file

Hello All,
Its been a while since my last visit, but I am still around.
With the increased popularity with mining crypto-currency, we have been getting a lot of questions in regards to how our power combo works. Attached you will find a few of the frequently asked questions we receive. As always if you have any questions that can not be answered by this awesome community, please send me a PM or tag me in the post so I get notification as it has been getting a bit difficult to visit as often as before.

Thanks for your support.

Brian


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brian-phanteks*
> 
> PowerComboFAQ.pdf 604k .pdf file
> 
> Hello All,
> Its been a while since my last visit, but I am still around.
> With the increased popularity with mining crypto-currency, we have been getting a lot of questions in regards to how our power combo works. Attached you will find a few of the frequently asked questions we receive. As always if you have any questions that can not be answered by this awesome community, please send me a PM or tag me in the post so I get notification as it has been getting a bit difficult to visit as often as before.
> 
> Thanks for your support.
> 
> Brian


@brian-phanteks

Niiiice. Appreciate you stopping by.


----------



## doyll

Brian keeps his eye on things here. We are the biggest/best Phanteks case group on the web!


----------



## Atreah

Hey guys!

I am thinking of buying the P400 tempered glass edition and was wondering if it is possible to fit a 360mm, 60mm thick rad in the front of it? Or is there not enough space to fit a 60mm rad and fans in the front?

Thanks for any info in advance!


----------



## Zaen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Melcar*
> 
> Been thinking bout ditching both HDD cages too. They are a pain to work with anyway. I have one of those 5.25" to 3.5" converter bays that I can fit inside the top bay (takes three slots) and put all my drives there. I'm just afraid my drives will cook up there. Another option would be to get rid of my single 3.5" storage drive and swap it for a smaller laptop drive, then use the 2.5" drive mounts. With both those options I can get rid of the HDD cages and just have the entire lower half of the case open.
> As for the bottom intakes, I think you can very well fit 2 140mm fans there. One option is to just use a round frame fan with 120mm fan mounts. Another option is to use zipties to tie both fans together, so that only one fan needs to be screwed in. I would still lift the case a bit more (10mm extra at least) to allow proper airflow from higher speed fans.


Yes you got my idea to the number.







I tested the 140mm in the bottom when i got the case, almost dismantled it all xD and it did seem they fit.. but read below and look at the pic @dlewbell posted :\
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dlewbell*
> 
> If the only reason you installed the top HDD cage was to mount a fan to it, you're actually making the situation worse for yourself. The HDD cage will do more to restrict airflow from your intake than the 120mm mounted to it will add. If you actually needed more space for drives, it would be worth it, but if you're not using it, you're better off pulling it out.
> The bottom fan mount locations do not support 2x140mm fans. You can fit 2x120mm or 1x140mm. The case was intended to only have a single 140mm fan installed in the slotted mounting location. You can take advantage of the smaller holes towards the front (using machine screws & nuts) to install a 140mm fan in a more forward location, but it will take up too much of the slots to allow a second fan to be installed.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: See picture for clarification.


Did seem to fit 2x140mm but that pic is self explanatory, rep+. No problem, 2x120mm will have to do, just would have to set them at a higher rpm them other exhaust fans to keep case air pressure in the positive







Don't think worth while machining holes to gain a few .cm, at least not before exploring other setup options.
The PSU cover i probably will drill the heck out of it as it blocks one of the possible bottom fan and imo was really bad thought out. If i had the $ i would order a honeycomb metal, or even plastic, cover to be made using the original cover as a model.

The fan on the HDD cage was more of a test to see if it would help with circulation of air towards the GPU, they are off now due to new setup; 2x140mm top intake (directly above CPU cooler),1x140mm back exhaust and (still) 1x200mm front intake. The top fans reduced temps on the CPU by 10-12ºc in games, CoD ran at 69-72 but last night didn't go over 60ºc xD , and noticed the GPU didn't get any hotter although it's now receiving a bit of warmer air on the back of the PCB. Seems to me that Phantek, for air cooling in this model of case, thought of all intakes and only back exhaust with the added detail of slow rpm fans for intake and fast for exhaust.

During some testing i found that i could fit one of my 2k rpm 120mm Noctua's inside the triple 5,25" bay and it fit with just a few mm of space and with some rubber on top, or bottom, of that fan it wouldn't move at all even at max rpm. that gave me the idea, after i fit a front panel fan controller, to try fit a fan on the that back space so SSD's and HDD's i store there with a 5.25" to 3.5" converter don't cook. Also, but for the SSD's only i may buy a extra SSD bracket to fit in the cable management space behind the mobo. I have 2 such locations in the case but only 1 bracket is supplied with it and the SSD i used to have there would be 8ºc hotter then the one i had in the 3,5" cage. Considering putting it back there again to speed up removing the HDD cages, specially since i haven't bought a HDD for storage yet and only have SSD's for OS, gaming and work.

I knew this would be a long running build but i'm on this system for 2 years this next October, never thought it would take this long to gather what i feel is needed. This next month the choices will be; either buy the fan controller or the storage HDD, need both right away but can only buy one of them


----------



## Zaen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Melcar*
> 
> Been thinking about ditching about HDD cages too. They are a pain to work with anyway. I have one of those 5.25" to 3.5" converter boxes that I can fit inside the top bay (takes three slots) and put all my drives there. I'm just afraid my drives will cook up there. Another option would be to get rid of my single 3.5" storage drive and swap it for a smaller laptop drive, then use the 2.5" drive mounts. With both those options I can get rid of the HDD cages and just have the entire lower half of the case open.
> As for the bottom intakes, I think you can very well fit 2x140mm fans there. One option is to just use a round frame fan with 120mm fan mounts. Another option is to use zipties to tie both fans together, so that only one fan needs to be screwed in. I would still lift the case a bit more (10mm extra at least) to allow proper airflow from higher speed fans.


If you got no use, like me, for those 5,25" bays idd it is a good option to adapt them to HDD cage. I'm in Europe and seems i don't have a lot of options besides order from a website for anything with good quality. In the USA i found what looks to be good stuff from Icydock either their FLEX-FIT Trio MB343SP or the ExpressCage MB322SP-B seem like what the doc ordered and with some luck it will allow to zip tie, or something like that, a 120mm fan behind them to keep drives cool.


----------



## Melcar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zaen*
> 
> If you got no use, like me, for those 5,25" bays idd it is a good option to adapt them to HDD cage. I'm in Europe and seems i don't have a lot of options besides order from a website for anything with good quality. In the USA i found what looks to be good stuff from Icydock either their FLEX-FIT Trio MB343SP or the ExpressCage MB322SP-B seem like what the doc ordered and with some luck it will allow to zip tie, or something like that, a 120mm fan behind them to keep drives cool.


I have one of these laying around:
http://www.silverstonetek.com/legacy.php?area=en&model=cfp51

The front plate is removable and it has mounts for a 120mm fan. Due to the closed front plate on the Enthoo Pro, that front fan will just be blowing at across the drives. Been meaning to put my drives there, but it may interfere with my top intake fan, which as you experienced, is badly needed for the CPU.
I'm trying to keep case fans to the minimum, yet still keep optimum airflow. Four intakes seems adequate (two front, two top), with passive exhaust towards the back.


----------



## Amhro

If I need to add more case fans, do I need fans with PWM or normal 3pin will do? I have only stock fans so far (1 intake, 1 outtake). I'd like to buy more 140mm fans, because PC is overheating with only 2 fans and case closed








Also, can I connect fans both to original fan controller thing or motherboard? I'm little bit confused and it is getting really hot, so I need some help asap


----------



## dainfamous

What case do you have?
What motherboard do you have?
What fan controller do you have?
What fans do you have?

You can move the outtake fan as an intake fan providing you have space for it and you can remove the pci slot covers as of right now.
It should make a difference,


----------



## austinmrs

Delete please


----------



## FIDDY57

Just joined the group and thought I would say hello to all. I am just about ready to upgrade my rig by moving everything into a new phanteks enthoo primo case that I purchased 2 months ago. Have been waiting on ekwb until yesterday for there gpu blocks for my new evga 1080ti ftw3's. I purchased the 3rd party acrylic full clear side panel for it and will be the last thing I put on it when im done.
I got all my parts for the custom loop from ekwb except the rads. i got 3 alpha cool's for this upgrade. top 480x30mm front 240x46mm and bottom 360x86mm. will be cooling the gpus and cpu.
this group has some great info to help me get this done hopfully without screwing it up lol. it will be my first custom loop build. I am looking forward to this groups advise and help for this. Spent quite a bit of $ on this rig since first building it 2 years ago and this custom loop was pricey lol. for info on what i have now my rig in sig. its been upgraded to this point with the new gpu's and cpu from a 4930k to a 4960x. next week after getting the blocks and backplates will start transferring everything over to the primo. want to say i am happy to be a new proud owner of a phanteks primo case and being part of this group.


----------



## Zaen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Melcar*
> 
> I have one of these laying around:
> http://www.silverstonetek.com/legacy.php?area=en&model=cfp51
> 
> The front plate is removable and it has mounts for a 120mm fan. Due to the closed front plate on the Enthoo Pro, that front fan will just be blowing at across the drives. Been meaning to put my drives there, but it may interfere with my top intake fan, which as you experienced, is badly needed for the CPU.
> I'm trying to keep case fans to the minimum, yet still keep optimum airflow. Four intakes seems adequate (two front, two top), with passive exhaust towards the back.


Although it looks nice that silverstone is too big for my ideas. The Enthoo pro has 3x5,25" and one of those is going for the fan controller so single "drawer" is the way to go for me. Last night i re-connected my 120mm Noctua's, 1 on top and the other on the lower HDD cage (removed the top one) and to do this i connected the 200mm on the CPU_OPT since it has the lower noise at full speed then any other i own and that header only gives full speed.. weird right?.... so now i have a lot of positive pressure inside the case, with what feels like a good amount of air leaking from the back and temps seem to be unaffected


----------



## Dasboogieman

Just wanted to share my recent Phanteks Primo Ultimate build
2x480mm, 1x360, 1x 240, 1x120mm, 2 D5 Pumps in series


----------



## Blaze0303

Couple crappy photos of my build. Enthoo Evolv ATX


----------



## Amhro

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dainfamous*
> 
> What case do you have?
> What motherboard do you have?
> What fan controller do you have?
> What fans do you have?
> 
> You can move the outtake fan as an intake fan providing you have space for it and you can remove the pci slot covers as of right now.
> It should make a difference,


P400S tempered glass, Asus M5A99X evo r2.0 motherboard ... fan controller and fans came with the case. I'd like to buy at least 2 more fans, but I'm not sure how to decide.


----------



## dlewbell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zaen*
> 
> Although it looks nice that silverstone is too big for my ideas. The Enthoo pro has 3x5,25" and one of those is going for the fan controller so single "drawer" is the way to go for me. Last night i re-connected my 120mm Noctua's, 1 on top and the other on the lower HDD cage (removed the top one) and to do this i connected the 200mm on the CPU_OPT since it has the lower noise at full speed then any other i own and that header only gives full speed.. weird right?.... so now i have a lot of positive pressure inside the case, with what feels like a good amount of air leaking from the back and temps seem to be unaffected


If your CPU_OPT header only runs fans at full speed, it may be set up to control PWM fans. If you have a PWM fan, try connecting it to that header, just to see what it does. I know it doesn't really help with your layout, but at least then you'd know what you have to work with.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zaen*
> 
> If you got no use, like me, for those 5,25" bays idd it is a good option to adapt them to HDD cage. I'm in Europe and seems i don't have a lot of options besides order from a website for anything with good quality. In the USA i found what looks to be good stuff from Icydock either their FLEX-FIT Trio MB343SP or the ExpressCage MB322SP-B seem like what the doc ordered and with some luck it will allow to zip tie, or something like that, a 120mm fan behind them to keep drives cool.


Both of these are available amazon.co.uk and amazon.de along with a long list of other IcyDock HDD cages for 5.25" bays. I'm using a 3x 3.5" HDD SATA in 2x 5.25" bay hot swap I've had for years and love it.


----------



## Amhro

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Amhro*
> 
> If I need to add more case fans, do I need fans with PWM or normal 3pin will do? I have only stock fans so far (1 intake, 1 outtake). I'd like to buy more 140mm fans, because PC is overheating with only 2 fans and case closed
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also, can I connect fans both to original fan controller thing or motherboard? I'm little bit confused and it is getting really hot, so I need some help asap


Anyone? Do fans which are connected to case's fan controller need to have PWM or not?


----------



## Dasboogieman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Amhro*
> 
> Anyone? Do fans which are connected to case's fan controller need to have PWM or not?


The don't need too but I'd be wary of the ML120/140 Corsair fans. Those need a true PWM signal to generate their proper air-pressure and to keep the mag-lev motor happy.


----------



## 24mar24

Hello. I was planning on installing a 280mm rad (Kraken x62) in the front of an enthoo pro m tempered glass and was wondering if it is possible to do so while leaving the hdd cage installed at the bottom. I tried to look through the thread, but could not find any definitive answers.


----------



## Testing12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *24mar24*
> 
> Hello. I was planning on installing a 280mm rad (Kraken x62) in the front of an enthoo pro m tempered glass and was wondering if it is possible to do so while leaving the hdd cage installed at the bottom. I tried to look through the thread, but could not find any definitive answers.


I believe so, as long as you remove the optical drive bay.


----------



## dainfamous

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Amhro*
> 
> P400S tempered glass, Asus M5A99X evo r2.0 motherboard ... fan controller and fans came with the case. I'd like to buy at least 2 more fans, but I'm not sure how to decide.


Well you can go with 2 more 120mm fans to put 3 in the front and 1 in the back.

Or you can buy 2 140mm fans to put in the front. Your hard drives in the bottom would lose some airflow though. You can buy an 80mm fan to put there if that concerns you.

The Phanteks fans are pretty good. From the forums PH-120MP (120mm pwm), PH-140MP (140mm pwm), and PH-140SP (140mm 3pin) are the ones to get for standard fan mounting


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Amhro*
> 
> Anyone? Do fans which are connected to case's fan controller need to have PWM or not?


The Phantesk PWM fan hub is not a PWM fan hub at all, but is a PWM controlled variable voltage (speed) fan hub. It is not designed for PWM fans, but for variable voltage fans.

Like Dasboogieman said, I do not advise using ML fans on Phanteks fan hub.


----------



## Zaen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dlewbell*
> 
> If your CPU_OPT header only runs fans at full speed, it may be set up to control PWM fans. If you have a PWM fan, try connecting it to that header, just to see what it does. I know it doesn't really help with your layout, but at least then you'd know what you have to work with.


Hmm. didn't remember to check in BIOS for CPU_OPT, will do









The fan, as it only runs at 800 rpm max, although being 200mm generates little noise. It's noticeable but doesn't bother me, if i can lower it even better. As long as i can't use the bottom as intake this setup is fine, temps are great for air given i'm running 1,330Vcore for a miserable 4.4GHz O.C. Need to try my max stable O.C. on air with this setup for a few days to a week and see if it holds close to the H100i







I was running 1,415Vcore (BIOS, actual was 1,440Vcore max) for only 4.7GHz on the H100i







temps only raised above 75ºc when running [email protected] Not healthy i know, i was trying to run it that high to prove ppl that say 1,40Vcore is the max safe Vcore for Skylake are not right and that it can take the punishment as long as temps are in check.

Imay have gotten a lemon for a CPU but i intend to squeeze every Hz i can out of it


----------



## Zaen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Both of these are available amazon.co.uk and amazon.de along with a long list of other IcyDock HDD cages for 5.25" bays. I'm using a 3x 3.5" HDD SATA in 2x 5.25" bay hot swap I've had for years and love it.


Yeah i see. Been thinking about this for a long while now but only now it became a real issue to take care of. Can't get them this next month, probably only by august and i might be able to get a couple more PH-F140SP then and complete the fan array for truly balanced intake and exhaust.

Just decide i few minutes ago, to speed things a bit i'm getting a "small", but importantly cheap, 1TB HDD and the fan controller. Need the storage badly and the fan controller so i can ditch using the cpu_opt header and disconnect the y splitters i have to run all my fans from mobo headers... or i get a 3TB HDD and no fan controller... darn it my inconstant decision making xD


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zaen*
> 
> Yeah i see. Been thinking about this for a long while now but only now it became a real issue to take care of. Can't get them this next month, probably only by august and i might be able to get a couple more PH-F140SP then and complete the fan array for truly balanced intake and exhaust.
> 
> Just decide i few minutes ago, to speed things a bit i'm getting a "small", but importantly cheap, 1TB HDD and the fan controller. Need the storage badly and the fan controller so i can ditch using the cpu_opt header and disconnect the y splitters i have to run all my fans from mobo headers... or i get a 3TB HDD and no fan controller... darn it my inconstant decision making xD


I'm going to assume you have the H100 as top exhaust.
You replace the 200mm fan with a couple of the PH-F140SP fans you now use as exhaust fans? The case will flow very well with no exhaust fans and PH-F140SP front intakes. 2x PH-F140SP front intakes and 2x 120mm fans on H100i exhaust is 'balanced case airflow. '


----------



## Zaen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Could you replace the 200mm fan with a couple of the PH-F140SP fans you now use as exhaust fans? The case will flow very well with no exhaust fans and PH-F140SP front intakes.


I can but then i would have either to put the 200mm on top or leave it out completely. As i said before, i intend to do that just not able atm. As it's the quieter fan i got i have it on full throttle, given opinions on it aren't good, speed should compensate a bit for the lack of cfm they have.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zaen*
> 
> I can but then i would have either to put the 200mm on top or leave it out completely. As i said before, i intend to do that just not able atm. As it's the quieter fan i got i have it on full throttle, given opinions on it aren't good, speed should compensate a bit for the lack of cfm they have.


Just because you have a bunch of fans does not mean you have to use the all. I probably have 40 fans here not in use. My enthoo Luxe has 3x fans in use in it; 2x front intake and 1x bottom intake. No exhaust fans at all.

If I remember correctly the your Enthoo Pro has same fan setup, so you could do the same with your case. Then the only difference is Pro front intake is full mesh grill while Luxe has panel over center area. I have my case on a castor base for ease of movement and to give better airflow to bottom.

A bit of FYI, you can very easily mod your two bottom filters into a single one that slides out the front.
It's explained in this link
http://www.overclock.net/t/1418637/official-case-phanteks-case-club-for-lovers-owners/10220_20#post_24095206


----------



## Zaen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Just because you have a bunch of fans does not mean you have to use the all. I probably have 40 fans here not in use. My enthoo Luxe has 3x fans in use in it; 2x front intake and 1x bottom intake. No exhaust fans at all.
> 
> If I remember correctly the your Enthoo Pro has same fan setup, so you could do the same with your case. Then the only difference is Pro front intake is full mesh grill while Luxe has panel over center area. I have my case on a castor base for ease of movement and to give better airflow to bottom.
> 
> A bit of FYI, you can very easily mod your two bottom filters into a single one that slides out the front.
> It's explained in this link
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1418637/official-case-phanteks-case-club-for-lovers-owners/10220_20#post_24095206


Thx but i read that sometime ago, i have the case sideways so i have easy access to both bottom filters without need to "chain" them in a single filter. It is a worth while mod nevertheless, just not useful for me given case position.

The castor base is something i'm looking for but i would like to have castor wheels with brakes on them







and it's not top priority.

If i can have 4 intake and same proportion in exhaust i will. Never liked blank empty or covered up spaces, unaesthetic, but i do see your point. Back in the 386 to P4 days what i did for friends builds was 2 or 3 intake with 1 exhaust but that was then, and even with Vcore in the 1,51V for some P4's they don't generate all that much heat when compared to today's OC'ed CPU's and given i'm nuts with the voltages i feel i need to keep the cpu cool even during [email protected] which skyrockets temps, as i'm sure you know, especially when running over 1,3Vcore. Feelings are often wrong but with such a large case i figured it can, if not wants, to have lots of air flowing into the case with only a helping hand from the back and/or top fan to direction the flow out the case.

Another simple config i could try could be 2x120mm bottom, 2x140mm front intake and 1x140mm back exhaust covering the top completely. But this is if i can't get the corsair AIO working again, if all goes well and i can all this is up in the wind. H100i gtx uses 2x120mm that i will try fit in the front or top forward as intake, and because i'm pulling air in and it will be hot i will need to cool it as fast as possible so i would use my oldie setup of all intake and only 1 back exhaust. Only in this last case, with the AIO, i would consider not using bottom fans making 2x120mm (probably push-pull) plus 3x140mm intake and only 1x140mm exhaust.

I have several diagrams but i admit this isn't my cup of tea, i'm going by my very limited knowledge of fluid dynamics that i got from studding pneumatic and the sorts, logic and past experience from back in the day i did 386 and Pentium rigs


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zaen*
> 
> Thx but i read that sometime ago, i have the case sideways so i have easy access to both bottom filters without need to "chain" them in a single filter. It is a worth while mod nevertheless, just not useful for me given case position.
> 
> The castor base is something i'm looking for but i would like to have castor wheels with brakes on them
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and it's not top priority.
> 
> If i can have 4 intake and same proportion in exhaust i will. Never liked blank empty or covered up spaces, unaesthetic, but i do see your point. Back in the 386 to P4 days what i did for friends builds was 2 or 3 intake with 1 exhaust but that was then, and even with Vcore in the 1,51V for some P4's they don't generate all that much heat when compared to today's OC'ed CPU's and given i'm nuts with the voltages i feel i need to keep the cpu cool even during [email protected] which skyrockets temps, as i'm sure you know, especially when running over 1,3Vcore. Feelings are often wrong but with such a large case i figured it can, if not wants, to have lots of air flowing into the case with only a helping hand from the back and/or top fan to direction the flow out the case.
> 
> Another simple config i could try could be 2x120mm bottom, 2x140mm front intake and 1x140mm back exhaust covering the top completely. But this is if i can't get the corsair AIO working again, if all goes well and i can all this is up in the wind. H100i gtx uses 2x120mm that i will try fit in the front or top forward as intake, and because i'm pulling air in and it will be hot i will need to cool it as fast as possible so i would use my oldie setup of all intake and only 1 back exhaust. Only in this last case, with the AIO, i would consider not using bottom fans making 2x120mm (probably push-pull) plus 3x140mm intake and only 1x140mm exhaust.
> 
> I have several diagrams but i admit this isn't my cup of tea, i'm going by my very limited knowledge of fluid dynamics that i got from studding pneumatic and the sorts, logic and past experience from back in the day i did 386 and Pentium rigs


Most castor suppliers have fixed and swivel castors with or without brakes. I've found 2 w/ brakes and 2 without is good. Bigger cases I often use 6 casters. Plans for Enthoo Primo castor base are in link below. Adjust size and number of castors to match case.
http://www.overclock.net/t/1418637/official-case-phanteks-case-club-for-lovers-owners/14760_20#post_25457818
http://www.overclock.net/t/1418637/official-case-phanteks-case-club-for-lovers-owners/14760_20#post_25457818

Using both intake and exhaust fans is same principle as using push / pull on a cooler or radiator.







Think of the resistance of exhaust grills and case components as the cooler or radiator. If we have good fans pushing air into case (radiator / cooler) then using a case exhaust fan (cooler / radiator pull fan) makes little to no difference.


----------



## Zaen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Most castor suppliers have fixed and swivel castors with or without brakes. I've found 2 w/ brakes and 2 without is good. Bigger cases I often use 6 casters. Plans for Enthoo Primo castor base are in link below. Adjust size and number of castors to match case.
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1418637/official-case-phanteks-case-club-for-lovers-owners/14760_20#post_25457818
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1418637/official-case-phanteks-case-club-for-lovers-owners/14760_20#post_25457818
> 
> Using both intake and exhaust fans is same principle as using push / pull on a cooler or radiator.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Think of the resistance of exhaust grills and case components as the cooler or radiator. If we have good fans pushing air into case (radiator / cooler) then using a case exhaust fan (cooler / radiator pull fan) makes little to no difference.


I remember that post , good schematic, tagged that for future reference









I know push/pull don't get much difference from just push or pull but consider that if i can get the AIO cooler working i will re-dial my higher OC with 100mV more then now so 1, 2 or 3ºc off CPU is a good thing, i must try it and make the comparison. Every system is a bit different i might have better performance, temps wise, that way. Really need to test and see.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zaen*
> 
> I remember that post , good schematic, tagged that for future reference
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I know push/pull don't get much difference from just push or pull but consider that if i can get the AIO cooler working i will re-dial my higher OC with 100mV more then now so 1, 2 or 3ºc off CPU is a good thing, i must try it and make the comparison. Every system is a bit different i might have better performance, temps wise, that way. Really need to test and see.


The reason I keep pushing you to change out the PH-F200SP front intake fan for 2x PH-F140SP fans is because it makes a huge difference in case airflow. You probably do not believe me as to how much difference it makes. Please do it.


----------



## Zaen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> The reason I keep pushing you to change out the PH-F200SP front intake fan for 2x PH-F140SP fans is because it makes a huge difference in case airflow. You probably do not believe me as to how much difference it makes. Please do it.


Oh i believe you. 2x140mm and it's superior surface area plus higher rpm then the 1x200mm, just using math the 2x140 gives more cfm then 1x200. Even taking to account the center of each fan and it's size.
I'm reluctant because i have more cool air inside the case swirling around this way. Taking out the 200mm without nothing to replace it doesn't seem logical to me. Ofc i don't want to fall into the trap of catching air in pockets that never cool inside the case. This is one of the main reasons i go for as much fans as possible, as low rpm as possible (given all the mesh and filters can't be too low) with as high cfm as possible.


----------



## garyd9

I'm thinking of purchasing a Phanteks Enthoo Pro M case, but I have a couple of questions that I'm hoping the people in this thread can answer:

The marketing material for this case is self-conflicting in regards to fitting a 360mm water cooling radiator in the FRONT of this case. Some material states only that the optical drive bay must be removed, while other material states that a mid-plate in the bottom should be removed (and that the optical bay only needs to be removed for putting a 360mm in the TOP of the case.)

Can someone who actually has the case tell me if the case will handle a 360mm radiator (around 400mm actual length) in the FRONT of the case while the optical bay is still in place (by removing the bottom mid plate)?

I'm trying to figure out if I can remove that plate, front mount a slim (30mm) 360mm radiator and fans (25mm) and still have room to put a D5 pump down there. How big is the hole that the mid-plate covers?

For the tempered glass version, can you please describe the mounting mechanism? Are there rubber grommets that protect the glass? Does the glass have something to rest on while securing it with screws (or do you have to hold the glass in position while trying to also get the the bolts in place?)

Are there any issues or common complaints with this case that a person should be aware of before purchasing?

Thank you
Gary


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zaen*
> 
> Oh i believe you. 2x140mm and it's superior surface area plus higher rpm then the 1x200mm, just using math the 2x140 gives more cfm then 1x200. Even taking to account the center of each fan and it's size.
> I'm reluctant because i have more cool air inside the case swirling around this way. Taking out the 200mm without nothing to replace it doesn't seem logical to me. Ofc i don't want to fall into the trap of catching air in pockets that never cool inside the case. This is one of the main reasons i go for as much fans as possible, as low rpm as possible (given all the mesh and filters can't be too low) with as high cfm as possible.


Well a 200mm fan has a flow area the same or maybe a little bigger than 2x 140mm fans. The differences have to do more with bigger diameter fan blades having a much diffent blade speed differential and blade area vs flow area. A single PH-F140SP is better than a Ph-F200SP.


----------



## Zaen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Well a 200mm fan has a flow area the same or maybe a little bigger than 2x 140mm fans. The differences have to do more with bigger diameter fan blades having a much diffent blade speed differential and blade area vs flow area. A single PH-F140SP is better than a Ph-F200SP.


This exemplifies what i'm aiming for when all is done.



It will be a while until then.


----------



## xTesla1856

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zaen*
> 
> This exemplifies what i'm aiming for when all is done.
> 
> 
> 
> It will be a while until then.


The 2x120mm on the bottom will be impossible if you have the front populated with 2 or even 4 fans with a 240mm rad. Even a single fan will be difficult in the bottom if the front is that crowded.


----------



## Zaen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xTesla1856*
> 
> The 2x120mm on the bottom will be impossible if you have the front populated with 2 or even 4 fans with a 240mm rad. Even a single fan will be difficult in the bottom if the front is that crowded.


Yeah u right, if i use push/pull. If only push or pull i can pull radiator a bit up to have enough clearance for bottom fans. radiator isn't that big... i think xD Tried it there a few weeks ago and it fit, not that i didn't had to use some force to settle it there given i still had the HDD cage support stand in the case, that is higher then the fan, it fit







but just 1 set of fans if push/pull i may not have the space idd.


----------



## Amhro

Will 140mm fan fit into rear position in P400S T?
Also, 3x 120mm vs 2x 140mm front fans. Which way should I go?


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Amhro*
> 
> Will 140mm fan fit into rear position in P400S T?
> Also, 3x 120mm vs 2x 140mm front fans. Which way should I go?


With fans bring similar quality, 2 x 140 will move more air with less noise than 3 x 120.


----------



## Kaap

New forum member here. Thought I'd post you some pictures of my Phanteks Evolv ATX. I too have noticed the airflow issues with this case, and there for I made a modification to my case using a water jet cutter at work:

The setup itself, notice the annoying dust buildup:



The modifcation:




The new ventilation openings were ofcourse in need of a dust filter. I applied the same PVC type of filter that Phanteks applied to the ventilation holes on the edge of the panel. Some interesting results:
CPU idle temp with unmodified top: 35 degrees
CPU idle temp with top resting on case thus creating a gap on all sides: 30 degrees
CPU idle temp with modified top without PVC material: 30 degrees
CPU idle temp with modified top with PVC material: 34 degrees
CPU idle temp with modified top with PVC material resting on case thus creating a gap on all sides: 30 degrees

These results clearly indicate the poor airflow of this case, but also this led me to believe that the PVC material that's used on the side ventilation holes might also be limiting. I would have loved to test with an unmodified panel stripped of the PVC dust filter from the side holes.


----------



## Zaen

@Kaap
Mod looks great, fits well with the rest of the case stilling









If you don't mind a question... were did you get the vinyl mesh? and by what name do they go were u live? been looking for some to fit on the front/side opening of my Enthoo pro but the best i can find near me is kitchen exhaust or AC filters and those are very restrictive, too much if aiming for slow rpm, silent operation fans.


----------



## Kaap

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zaen*
> 
> @Kaap
> Mod looks great, fits well with the rest of the case stilling
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you don't mind a question... were did you get the vinyl mesh? and by what name do they go were u live? been looking for some to fit on the front/side opening of my Enthoo pro but the best i can find near me is kitchen exhaust or AC filters and those are very restrictive, too much if aiming for slow rpm, silent operation fans.


I said vinyl, but I meant PVC. If you google Premium Ultra Thin 0.17 PVC you'll find a lot of shops worldwide selling this. I bought mine from highflow.nl but moddiy.com has it as well: https://www.moddiy.com/products/Premium-Ultra-Thin-0.17mm-PVC-Case%7B47%7DFan-Dust-Filter-Material.html


----------



## Benny89

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> I thnk you got it backwards.
> 3.2mm hole mesh has 30-40% ope flow area according to my data charts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That is quite a bit of heat you are generating, especially trying to keep it all quiet.
> Did you try removing the case end pieces and mesh mesh from top vents? And setting the top on top of it's latches instead of pushed down give an additional 3mm gap around entire top.
> 
> Nit-picking aside, as long a sit runs cool and quiet. That is the important thing.


So I guess first one would be best (2mm 2,5mm hexagonal) for 64% airflow and density against dust. Correct? It will also look best probably....


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benny89*
> 
> So I guess first one would be best (2mm 2,5mm hexagonal) for 64% airflow and density against dust. Correct? It will also look best probably....


I don't know about your dust, but mine is much much smaller particles than 2mm.








I like 4.5mm hole with 5mm pitch .. and it will flow more than 26% more air too. 4.5mm is only 0.176mm .. smaller than a 3/16" hole.


----------



## Benny89

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> I don't know about your dust, but mine is much much smaller particles than 2mm.


Well, I wasn't clear enough, of coure I would have to add some mesh later but since this is push its not that bad I guess. And its better to have those 2mm holes, right?

I want to do the following mod:



And I am looking for best mesh to put there from aluminium. Would you recommend that 2 mm per 2,5 mm hexgonal one?


----------



## Zaen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kaap*
> 
> I said vinyl, but I meant PVC. If you google Premium Ultra Thin 0.17 PVC you'll find a lot of shops worldwide selling this. I bought mine from highflow.nl but moddiy.com has it as well: https://www.moddiy.com/products/Premium-Ultra-Thin-0.17mm-PVC-Case%7B47%7DFan-Dust-Filter-Material.html


Cool, many thx







Been hard to explain to some hardware shops what is that i'm looking for, or they just don't understand what i mean by dust filter/mesh xD


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benny89*
> 
> Well, I wasn't clear enough, of coure I would have to add some mesh later but since this is push its not that bad I guess. And its better to have those 2mm holes, right?
> 
> I want to do the following mod:
> 
> 
> 
> And I am looking for best mesh to put there from aluminium. Would you recommend that 2 mm per 2,5 mm hexgonal one?


I edited my original post
Quote:


> I like 4.5mm hole with 5mm pitch .. and it will flow more than 26% more air too. 4.5mm is only 0.176mm .. smaller than a 3/16" hole.


Try contacting Bill at MNPCTech. I think he has some new hex hole mesh with smaller hole than what is showing on website.
https://mnpctech.com/case-mods-gaming-pc-liquid-modding-custom-computer-mnpctech-overclock-cooling-fan-grills/modders-mesh-perforated-aluminum-steel-honeycomb-grill-intake-front-fan-slotted-diamond-round-hex/


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benny89*
> 
> So I guess first one would be best (2mm 2,5mm hexagonal) for 64% airflow and density against dust. Correct? It will also look best probably....


This is what I use. Doesn't noticeably inhibit airflow.


----------



## Benny89

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> This is what I use. Doesn't noticeably inhibit airflow.


Ow crap, its in inches.... But I guess it's probably 4,5mm per 5mm I think. At least density looks like it. Can you post pick how does it look on modded top?


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benny89*
> 
> Ow crap, its in inches.... But I guess it's probably 4,5mm per 5mm I think. At least density looks like it. Can you post pick how does it look on modded top?


----------



## Benny89

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*


Thank you. Would you be so kind to send me your 2D or 3D project/sheet you had with measures for it? You know, when they do it, they need it so machine can make precise cuts. Could you please share it so I can use it (and others)? Thank you in advance.


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benny89*
> 
> Thank you. Would you be so kind to send me your 2D or 3D project/sheet you had with measures for it? You know, when they do it, they need it so machine can make precise cuts. Could you please share it so I can use it (and others)? Thank you in advance.


I actually do not have one. I made a sketch in Photoshop and then had the CNC shop translate that into a workable file. With that said, I will PM you the email of the guy who did the work for me. Hopefully he can help you out.


----------



## hurricane28

hmm, i thought my problems were fixed with the new panel but it didn't, i got worse...




How is it possible to drill a hole this much off... I mean, i am an mechanic myself and we all make mistakes but this is just plain wrong. The hole isn't even round like the other panel. I already send an email to Phanteks and i am confident they will solve this as i can't use the panel now because it puts too much stress on the rubber ring on the case and the case itself.


----------



## Frenkymd

Hey, all!

Has anybody got a picture or a video in which there are two Phanteks cases (Elite, or Evolv) - one with satin black and an other with anthracite grey aluminium panels?
I'm trying to decide which version of the Elite I like better, but I can't find any material that can help compare the two color alternatives.


----------



## velocityx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> I actually do not have one. I made a sketch in Photoshop and then had the CNC shop translate that into a workable file. With that said, I will PM you the email of the guy who did the work for me. Hopefully he can help you out.


Count me in! I was about to draw it in photoshop and hope the waterjet guys can do it for me... will probably end up that way anyway


----------



## jsf124512

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *velocityx*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> I actually do not have one. I made a sketch in Photoshop and then had the CNC shop translate that into a workable file. With that said, I will PM you the email of the guy who did the work for me. Hopefully he can help you out.
> 
> 
> 
> Count me in! I was about to draw it in photoshop and hope the waterjet guys can do it for me... will probably end up that way anyway
Click to expand...

Please, if you dont mind, can you share the Photoshop design?

Regards.


----------



## kevindd992002

Will using an E-ATX board in the Enthoo Evolv ATX be considered "cramping up" the case?


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Will using an E-ATX board in the Enthoo Evolv ATX be considered "cramping up" the case?


No, that extra little bit of MB does not disrupt anything.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> No, that extra little bit of MB does not disrupt anything.


I checked the specs of the Evolv ATX and it says this:

Evolve ATX specs say E-ATX *(up to 264mm wide)

I was planning on getting the ASUS ROG Maximus IX Apex but it is 30.5 cm x 27.2 cm so I guess it would not fit.


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> I was planning on getting the ASUS ROG Maximus IX Apex but it is 30.5 cm x 27.2 cm so I guess it would not fit.


I guess they limited it to a conservative 264mm because it would cover up the cable routing holes otherwise, but the APEX actually has cutouts along its right side to account for that, so its most likely fine.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gilles3000*
> 
> I guess they limited it to a conservative 264mm because it would cover up the cable routing holes otherwise, but the APEX actually has cutouts along its right side to account for that, so its most likely fine.


Yeah, but I be 100% sure about it before buying the board itself. I'm not seeing any hits in Google with this combo though.


----------



## Testing12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Yeah, but I be 100% sure about it before buying the board itself. I'm not seeing any hits in Google with this combo though.


You might check PCPartPicker


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Will using an E-ATX board in the Enthoo Evolv ATX be considered "cramping up" the case?


Phanteks said
Quote:


> Because of the hit and miss compatibility, we will not be marking it as compatible with E-ATX boards at this time.


My thoughts are it depends on how big the E-ATX motherboard planning to use is. That and some Phanteks cases have a transitional angle between the height of motherboard tray under motherboard and front area behind HDD that is closer to side of case.








Hopefully you can see it in below image. Depending on how wide your E-ATX motherboard is it may hit the grommets or even the metal of tray.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Testing12*
> 
> You might check PCPartPicker


Not a good source for non-standard questions. Not really even a very good source for standard questions.......


----------



## JAM3S121

If I bought a phanteks p400s could I daisy chain another two fans to the top onto the built in fan controller?


----------



## pez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Not a good source for non-standard questions. Not really even a very good source for standard questions.......


If there are other 272mm mobos that exist, you can filter it down to those mobos and the case in question and if the user has pictures, it can usually give a bit of insight. At least a little more than Google images can sometimes, anyways







.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JAM3S121*
> 
> If I bought a phanteks p400s could I daisy chain another two fans to the top onto the built in fan controller?


What are the specifications of the fan you want to run? As it is your question is like me asking you if I will be hurt jumping off of my boat. Depends on what the boats .. the distance from where I am on the boat to the water. Small boat deck to waterline is no problem, but if it's a tanker it's a long ways from deck to waterline. Fans have different running and startup load ratings .. some are 0.08 amp and others are 1.3 amp. Problem is more complicated by the fact most fan ratings do not say if it's running or startup load .. and startup load is 2.-3 times more then running load. We can run 2 or 3 fans rated 0.08 amp fans on a fan header, but we cannot run one 1.3 amp fan.


----------



## dlewbell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> I checked the specs of the Evolv ATX and it says this:
> 
> Evolve ATX specs say E-ATX *(up to 264mm wide)
> 
> I was planning on getting the ASUS ROG Maximus IX Apex but it is 30.5 cm x 27.2 cm so I guess it would not fit.


@Sazexa has put a 272mm wide board in his Evolv ATX, though it apparently required removal of the motherboard backplate, grommets, & some other work if I remember correctly. Here's the last post I remember seeing on the topic:
http://www.overclock.net/t/1418637/official-case-phanteks-case-club-for-lovers-owners/14320_20#post_25359730


----------



## Sazexa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dlewbell*
> 
> @Sazexa has put a 272mm wide board in his Evolv ATX, though it apparently required removal of the motherboard backplate, grommets, & some other work if I remember correctly. Here's the last post I remember seeing on the topic:
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1418637/official-case-phanteks-case-club-for-lovers-owners/14320_20#post_25359730


That's correct.

I left the right side of the motherboard screws loose and had to electrical tape over about 1/4 of the right side of the board. Even then, there were some issues due to slight flex. Unless you mod the case a bit, I wouldn't recommend it.


----------



## JAM3S121

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> What are the specifications of the fan you want to run? As it is your question is like me asking you if I will be hurt jumping off of my boat. Depends on what the boats .. the distance from where I am on the boat to the water. Small boat deck to waterline is no problem, but if it's a tanker it's a long ways from deck to waterline. Fans have different running and startup load ratings .. some are 0.08 amp and others are 1.3 amp. Problem is more complicated by the fact most fan ratings do not say if it's running or startup load .. and startup load is 2.-3 times more then running load. We can run 2 or 3 fans rated 0.08 amp fans on a fan header, but we cannot run one 1.3 amp fan.


Thanks for the reply. I should of been more specific.

I'm starting to this this case won't work for my rig. I have a 7700k, Asus z170 Prime, EVGA GTX 1070 FTW.

The 7700k would be cooled by my H100i v2 (already own it). The GTX 1070 would not get much air flow to push the air out of the case and I'm afraid the temps would get stagnant. I use the 1070 to mine zcash and ethereum... it already gets 75c which isn't terrible but I'm thinking it wouldn't do well only getting air coming out of the rad to exhaust.

What do you guys think?


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JAM3S121*
> 
> Thanks for the reply. I should of been more specific.
> 
> I'm planning on buying a P400s for my current build (i7 7700k, Z170 Asus Prime, GTX 1070). I plan to use my h100i v2 in the front of the case but want to at least add 1 intake to the top.
> 
> I was under the impression the fan controller came with 2 fan headers, ideally if I filled all fan slots I want to power 3 fans (h100iv2 would go on pwm controller).
> 
> It would probably be the Corsair AF Quiet edition 120mm fans.


Just to be clear the P400S is the only P400 with fan controller, and all it does is seltect 3 different voltage settings. Personally if you want a quiet system I would use motherboard headers to control the case fans so case fans spin up and down in sync with CPU and GPU cooler fans. But if you want quiet you don't want to be using the H100i CLC. A good air cooler will cool as well, be quieter, cost less and be much more dependable .. also it will not pre-heat intake air that is beng used by GPU and making it harder to keep GPU temps down.

Also the AF fans are not very good .. at all. I would never use them .. and I know many others who think of them like I do.

Why are you planning to use H100i and AF fans? If you want water cooling then it's going to cost you much more than a CLC costs, and if you can't afford to do it, use air cooling. You would be amazed at how many X-custom loop people an even more X-CLC users there are now running nice quiet air cooled systems .. myself included.


----------



## JAM3S121

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Just to be clear the P400S is the only P400 with fan controller, and all it does is seltect 3 different voltage settings. Personally if you want a quiet system I would use motherboard headers to control the case fans so case fans spin up and down in sync with CPU and GPU cooler fans. But if you want quiet you don't want to be using the H100i CLC. A good air cooler will cool as well, be quieter, cost less and be much more dependable .. also it will not pre-heat intake air that is beng used by GPU and making it harder to keep GPU temps down.
> 
> Also the AF fans are not very good .. at all. I would never use them .. and I know many others who think of them like I do.
> 
> Why are you planning to use H100i and AF fans? If you want water cooling then it's going to cost you much more than a CLC costs, and if you can't afford to do it, use air cooling. You would be amazed at how many X-custom loop people an even more X-CLC users there are now running nice quiet air cooled systems .. myself included.


I meant adding the AF fans to the top. The h100i uses whatever fans already come with.


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Just to be clear the P400S is the only P400 with fan controller, and all it does is seltect 3 different voltage settings. Personally if you want a quiet system I would use motherboard headers to control the case fans so case fans spin up and down in sync with CPU and GPU cooler fans. But if you want quiet you don't want to be using the H100i CLC. A good air cooler will cool as well, be quieter, cost less and be much more dependable .. also it will not pre-heat intake air that is beng used by GPU and making it harder to keep GPU temps down.
> 
> Also the AF fans are not very good .. at all. I would never use them .. and I know many others who think of them like I do.
> 
> Why are you planning to use H100i and AF fans? If you want water cooling then it's going to cost you much more than a CLC costs, and if you can't afford to do it, use air cooling. You would be amazed at how many X-custom loop people an even more X-CLC users there are now running nice quiet air cooled systems .. myself included.


I have to agree with doyll, I was running a custom loop and got tired of draining/refilling/leak testing anytime I wanted to change anything with the build. I recently switched to air cooling with a Dark Rock TF. It cools almost as well as my loop and is incredibly quiet.


----------



## JAM3S121

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rfarmer*
> 
> I have to agree with doyll, I was running a custom loop and got tired of draining/refilling/leak testing anytime I wanted to change anything with the build. I recently switched to air cooling with a Dark Rock TF. It cools almost as well as my loop and is incredibly quiet.


Thanks for the feedback. I may do that since I like the case, it definitely won't work with what I want to do (mining on 2x gtx 1070's next month) with the front intake being blocked by a h100.


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JAM3S121*
> 
> Thanks for the feedback. I may do that since I like the case, it definitely won't work with what I want to do (mining on 2x gtx 1070's next month) with the front intake being blocked by a h100.


I know that the people I have seen in this thread running a CLC in the front of the P400 are getting pretty high temps on their GPU's. Especially since you are mining with 2 GPU's I would go for a good tower cooler and good intake fans on the front, should give you significantly lower temps on the GPU's.


----------



## Chopper1591

Hello folks.

As some of you might be in the same boat as me....
Vega is nearly here.









We are going to redo our loop in the Phanteks case. For me that would be my good ol' Primo Black/Red.
Anyway, lately If been busy with the idea on how to improve my water temps.

A little info, my current situation:
- Top rad: EK 420 with 6 140mm Phanteks fans (as exhaust);
- Bottom: UT60 360 with triple Gentle Typhoons 1850 (as intake);
- Front: 2 140mm Phanteks fans (intake)
- Side: Same as front.
- Back completely open and fanless.

All are controlled by the mobo including the pump (EK Revo D5 PWM). Also included a water temp sensor (connected to my Maximus Hero VIII).
With this setup i've made profiles in the bios for all fans and pump to achieve a silent but (rather) cool system.

Somehow though I find I could get better water temps out of this setup. I have a fairly large rad space for the components:
- 6700K @ 4,6 ghz
- R9 290 @ 1100mhz

_On warmer days (ambient around 23-26c) my water reaches +35c fairly quick._

On to the topic:

Since I have to redo my loop anyway when Vega is here I might as well make some changes.
I would like to know if people have experience with the orientation of the fans in a Phanteks Primo. Maybe if I change the top radiator to intake I will get better temps. Though this might hurt component temp (VRM etc.)....



Bonus snap:


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







Thanks anyone for tips/ideas.


----------



## hurricane28

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> Hello folks.
> 
> As some of you might be in the same boat as me....
> Vega is nearly here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We are going to redo our loop in the Phanteks case. For me that would be my good ol' Primo Black/Red.
> Anyway, lately If been busy with the idea on how to improve my water temps.
> 
> A little info, my current situation:
> - Top rad: EK 420 with 6 140mm Phanteks fans (as exhaust);
> - Bottom: UT60 360 with triple Gentle Typhoons 1850 (as intake);
> - Front: 2 140mm Phanteks fans (intake)
> - Side: Same as front.
> - Back completely open and fanless.
> 
> All are controlled by the mobo including the pump (EK Revo D5 PWM). Also included a water temp sensor (connected to my Maximus Hero VIII).
> With this setup i've made profiles in the bios for all fans and pump to achieve a silent but (rather) cool system.
> 
> Somehow though I find I could get better water temps out of this setup. I have a fairly large rad space for the components:
> - 6700K @ 4,6 ghz
> - R9 290 @ 1100mhz
> 
> _On warmer days (ambient around 23-26c) my water reaches +35c fairly quick._
> 
> On to the topic:
> 
> Since I have to redo my loop anyway when Vega is here I might as well make some changes.
> I would like to know if people have experience with the orientation of the fans in a Phanteks Primo. Maybe if I change the top radiator to intake I will get better temps. Though this might hurt component temp (VRM etc.)....
> 
> 
> 
> Bonus snap:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks anyone for tips/ideas.






For better cooling you want to dissipate the heat as fast as possible obviously so reducing the restriction of the radiator or fans will drastically improve temps. The most important thing when cooling components is ambient. No matter how much radiator space or turbo fans you have, you will never get lower temps than ambient. But i assumed you already knew this.

I can see in the picture you don't have an rear exhaust fan int he back, if i were you i would mount an 120 mm fan set as intake in order for the radiator to get fresh cool ambient air. I did this and it improved my temps. I have it connected to my Fan controller so i can control the speed and ramp up when needed.

You have ample of radiator space which can almost cool an decent size car engine lol. What is the max temp you gotten so far? And while you're at it, why not getting an mono block in order to cool CPU and VRM's?

That is what i am going to do pretty soon with my Crosshair 6 board.


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> 
> For better cooling you want to dissipate the heat as fast as possible obviously so reducing the restriction of the radiator or fans will drastically improve temps. The most important thing when cooling components is ambient. No matter how much radiator space or turbo fans you have, you will never get lower temps than ambient. But i assumed you already knew this.
> 
> I can see in the picture you don't have an rear exhaust fan int he back, if i were you i would mount an 120 mm fan set as intake in order for the radiator to get fresh cool ambient air. I did this and it improved my temps. I have it connected to my Fan controller so i can control the speed and ramp up when needed.
> 
> You have ample of radiator space which can almost cool an decent size car engine lol. What is the max temp you gotten so far? And while you're at it, why not getting an mono block in order to cool CPU and VRM's?
> 
> That is what i am going to do pretty soon with my Crosshair 6 board.


Thanks for the reply.

I thought about the fan in the back but this would probably only get more dust in the case and maybe even pull in the warm air from the top rad..
Currently it is bottom and front/side intake. My case is on my desk though, with the back fairly close to a wall. Currently most of the warm air is blown out the back (possitive pressure) and basically trapped against the wall. Not sure if it will get "fresh" air then when I place a fan as intake on the empty rear.

I've been there: controlling by fan-controller. Currently I'm very happy with my all PWM setup as it is near silent when doing normal stuff (browsing, office stuff etc.) and when the temp raises (measured with the water temp sensor) the fans and the pump go in a higher gear.

Which temp are you asking about?
Currently (after a few hours of pretty idle stuff with an ambient around 23c I have the following:
*Note*: T-sensor1 is the water temp.


Maybe I will indeed swap out the EK block for a Mono.
Although the VRM temp is pretty good actually.

I will run a few laps of IBT and post the result.

Update:

Here's a shot after 8 runs of IBT on very high.
As you can see the water temp hardly rises from the cpu. I think I might de-lid the chip while I redo the loop when Vega is here.


----------



## TeslaHUN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rfarmer*
> 
> I have to agree with doyll, I was running a custom loop and got tired of draining/refilling/leak testing anytime I wanted to change anything with the build. I recently switched to air cooling with a Dark Rock TF. It cools almost as well as my loop and is incredibly quiet.


Ye watercooling is overrated .
I returned to aircooling after 3year of water .
Phanteks Enthoo primo
360 + 420 radiators (3intake fan on bottom +3 fan exhaust on top) / 2x intake in front /1x exhaust on back .
In total 9fan


vs
Silverstone FT05
2x18 fan intake / 2x14cm on CPU cooler / 0 exhaust fan


And the temps are pretty much the same (5820k @75C / [email protected] 65C all overclocked )
But now instead of 9fan +pump i have much less fan and noise .


----------



## Benny89

98% Finished. Just need to put little more red dye into loop and put a 2 3mm LED lights under pump and res so its also visible. 2x HWL Nemesis 360 GTS rads.

Evolv ATX TG.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TeslaHUN*
> 
> Ye watercooling is overrated .
> I returned to aircooling after 3year of water .
> Phanteks Enthoo primo
> 360 + 420 radiators (3intake fan on bottom +3 fan exhaust on top) / 2x intake in front /1x exhaust on back .
> In total 9fan
> 
> 
> vs
> Silverstone FT05
> 2x18 fan intake / 2x14cm on CPU cooler / 0 exhaust fan
> 
> 
> And the temps are pretty much the same (5820k @75C / [email protected] 65C all overclocked )
> But now instead of 9fan +pump i have much less fan and noise .


Yeah, custom loops work very well and are quiet too, but the high cost of components and at least annual drain and clean were more hassle than I want to deal with. Sure, a good custom loop will cool a little better and be just as quiet, maybe a little quieter under sustained high loads, but it's not a big difference.

We are seeing more and more 'wet heads' (not to be confused with CLC heads) coming back to big air. But even 'CLC heads' who have listened and learned are dumping the wimpy CLCs for good air cooling and rave on and on about how well air cools and how much quieter there systems now are.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rfarmer*
> 
> I know that the people I have seen in this thread running a CLC in the front of the P400 are getting pretty high temps on their GPU's. Especially since you are mining with 2 GPU's I would go for a good tower cooler and good intake fans on the front, should give you significantly lower temps on the GPU's.


Limiting the amount of fresh air intake, and having what does get in warmed by the radiator should kind of be expected to have that affect.


----------



## NiKiZ

My black and white build inside Phanteks Enthoo Pro M Acrylic. I am missing one LED strip from the right side, but it looks pretty nice with a single strip too.


----------



## sharonna

I Switched case and rebuild my system in a P400S TG.



http://imgur.com/8kSPP


Very happy with the result


----------



## Kaap

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Yeah, custom loops work very well and are quiet too, but the high cost of components and at least annual drain and clean were more hassle than I want to deal with. Sure, a good custom loop will cool a little better and be just as quiet, maybe a little quieter under sustained high loads, but it's not a big difference.
> 
> We are seeing more and more 'wet heads' (not to be confused with CLC heads) coming back to big air. But even 'CLC heads' who have listened and learned are dumping the wimpy CLCs for good air cooling and rave on and on about how well air cools and how much quieter there systems now are.


I just dislike the gigantic coolers in my case. I'm using AIO, and will be CLC, from a purely aesthetics p.o.v.


----------



## w-moffatt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kaap*
> 
> I just dislike the gigantic coolers in my case. I'm using AIO, and will be CLC, from a purely aesthetics p.o.v.


yep agreed, im using an CLC and only opted for it due to aesthetics. Air coolers even in the expensive end just dont look good to me.


----------



## hurricane28

Update:

I just got my new Glass panel from Phanteks! Its the 3rd i got from them.

This one is flawless and fits perfectly!

I can now say with confident that Phanteks has an outstanding RMA/ customer care center!


----------



## Rainmaker91

So... It's been a while since I kept up with this thread so my apologies if it's been explained before (I know some of it has but can't find a detailed post).

After yet another try on getting the fan splitter that came in my Enthoo Primo to work I have decided that it's just not worth the time any more (It's not receiving a PWM signal from the motherboard, or at least not regulating the fans with it). So I was looking at the Phanteks PWM fan hub that they sell as a separate accessory, but I'm unsure if this is meant to work with PWM fans or voltage fans and quite frankly I haven't had the best experience using Phanteks splitters before so if anyone has any input on this one I will be happy to listen (or read I guess).

This is the one I'm curious on buying.


----------



## FIDDY57

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> So... It's been a while since I kept up with this thread so my apologies if it's been explained before (I know some of it has but can't find a detailed post).
> 
> After yet another try on getting the fan splitter that came in my Enthoo Primo to work I have decided that it's just not worth the time any more (It's not receiving a PWM signal from the motherboard, or at least not regulating the fans with it). So I was looking at the Phanteks PWM fan hub that they sell as a separate accessory, but I'm unsure if this is meant to work with PWM fans or voltage fans and quite frankly I haven't had the best experience using Phanteks splitters before so if anyone has any input on this one I will be happy to listen (or read I guess).
> 
> This is the one I'm curious on buying.


I have a new primo case and i also bought that separate phanteks part as well. I will be putting my rig together over the next few weeks and let ya know. I also bought a 5 inch bay fan controller and will try to figure out how i am going to connect 17 fans to everything and have control over all of them lol.

i have 17 thermal take riings 12's to put in my new primo case 3 rads, 480 top 240 front and 360 monsta on bottom total 17 fans. push/pull top and bottom.
have the built in phantek fan hub on the back installed,
then got these: http://www.phanteks.com/PH-PWHUB.html

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DQSTP0O/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01IFGFTJ2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

so it will be interesting how i figure out how to connect everything lol..


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FIDDY57*
> 
> I have a new primo case and i also bought that separate phanteks part as well. I will be putting my rig together over the next few weeks and let ya know. I also bought a 5 inch bay fan controller and will try to figure out how i am going to connect 17 fans to everything and have control over all of them lol.
> 
> i have 17 thermal take riings 12's to put in my new primo case 3 rads, 480 top 240 front and 360 monsta on bottom total 17 fans. push/pull top and bottom.
> have the built in phantek fan hub on the back installed,
> then got these: http://www.phanteks.com/PH-PWHUB.html
> 
> https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DQSTP0O/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
> 
> https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01IFGFTJ2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
> 
> so it will be interesting how i figure out how to connect everything lol..


I'm currently running 21 fans in mine, but I'm contemplating on swapping them out for better ones at a lower RPM. Trouble is I would need a decent powered PWM hub for that as it's just way to much current for my motherboard to handle. Currently I'm running voltage fans from a fan controller with just a bunch of splitters. It works quite well, but they run at 800RPM and that is sadly to loud for me









So since I want better and more quiet fans I would need PWM fans and a corresponding hub. That or just really low RPM voltage fans.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> So... It's been a while since I kept up with this thread so my apologies if it's been explained before (I know some of it has but can't find a detailed post).
> 
> After yet another try on getting the fan splitter that came in my Enthoo Primo to work I have decided that it's just not worth the time any more (It's not receiving a PWM signal from the motherboard, or at least not regulating the fans with it). So I was looking at the Phanteks PWM fan hub that they sell as a separate accessory, but I'm unsure if this is meant to work with PWM fans or voltage fans and quite frankly I haven't had the best experience using Phanteks splitters before so if anyone has any input on this one I will be happy to listen (or read I guess).
> 
> This is the one I'm curious on buying.


*The Phanteks PWM Hub is not a PWM hub!!*
The name is extremely misleading!
The one you link to is the same hub you have, but in a nice black plastic case.

The Phanteks PWM Hub is a PWM controlled variable voltage hub (I think you know this). It uses the PWM signal to adjust fan voltage .. the higher the percentage PWM signal is, the higher the voltage to hub fan headers is. There has to be a fan on the #1 hub fan header (white one) .. and that fan is the rpm reading you see for the PWM fan header you are using to supply Phanteks PWM hub with PWM signal from. The voltage adjustment varies depending on what the total fan amp load is. Hub performs best with 0.5 amp total fan load on hub .. but it definitely needs at least 0.5 amp of load or fans will not idle down like we (I) want them to .. and Primo with 5x PH-F140SP fans is 0.70 amp total load. Less fan load and fans will not idle down as well. More fan load and fans will not speed up as well.


Here is a link to review of the hub.
http://www.overclock.net/t/1491876/ways-to-better-cooling-airflow-cooler-fan-data/60_20#post_23772675


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> I'm currently running 21 fans in mine, but I'm contemplating on swapping them out for better ones at a lower RPM. Trouble is I would need a decent powered PWM hub for that as it's just way to much current for my motherboard to handle. Currently I'm running voltage fans from a fan controller with just a bunch of splitters. It works quite well, but they run at 800RPM and that is sadly to loud for me
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So since I want better and more quiet fans I would need PWM fans and a corresponding hub. That or just really low RPM voltage fans.


If you use PWM fans then there are several real PWM splitter hubs that use PSU for power and only use the motherboard PWM fan header to supply PWM signal and register 1 fan's rpm. A single PMW header will support about 8 fans safely, but some will handle up to 15 fans. It all depends on PWM signal strength and fan's PWM signal strength requirements. Some fans (like some Corsairs) don't like to play nice with even 2 or 3 fans.

I haven't kept up but I've heard there are some new PWM hubs .. some with stronger PWM signal to supply PWM signal to more fans, but I don't know which ones do what .. sorry.


----------



## Dasboogieman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> If you use PWM fans then there are several real PWM splitter hubs that use PSU for power and only use the motherboard PWM fan header to supply PWM signal and register 1 fan's rpm. A single PMW header will support about 8 fans safely, but some will handle up to 15 fans. It all depends on PWM signal strength and fan's PWM signal strength requirements. Some fans (like some Corsairs) don't like to play nice with even 2 or 3 fans.
> 
> I haven't kept up but I've heard there are some new PWM hubs .. some with stronger PWM signal to supply PWM signal to more fans, but I don't know which ones do what .. sorry.


The trick is to look for the PWM hub that has a PWM splitter/amplifier circuit, the outputs to fans must also be all 4 pins. These are usually pricier than PWM controlled Voltage variable hubs. Some hubs even use the USB2.0 Bus (like the Corsair Link system) to feed signal to a standalone PWM signal generator.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dasboogieman*
> 
> The trick is to look for the PWM hub that has a PWM splitter/amplifier circuit, the outputs to fans must also be all 4 pins. These are usually pricier than PWM controlled Voltage variable hubs. Some hubs even use the USB2.0 Bus (like the Corsair Link system) to feed signal to a standalone PWM signal generator.


What PWM hubs hve amplified PWM in them? I know Swiftech and Silverstone don't and I can't think of any that do. As for needing to be all 4-pin that is kind of self explanatory because all PWM fans are 4-pin .. they require the 4th pin for PWM control. Hubs using USB2.0 are not PWM controlled PWM hubs and are not what I understand us to be talking about. As far as I know Corsair Link does not work as intended so should not be considered.


----------



## Dasboogieman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> What PWM hubs hve amplified PWM in them? I know Swiftech and Silverstone don't and I can't think of any that do. As for needing to be all 4-pin that is kind of self explanatory because all PWM fans are 4-pin .. they require the 4th pin for PWM control. Hubs using USB2.0 are not PWM controlled PWM hubs and are not what I understand us to be talking about. As far as I know Corsair Link does not work as intended so should not be considered.


I was referring to the Phanteks model which takes a PWM 4 pin signal but controls the fans via 3 pin voltage. If the fan outputs are all 3 pin, you are not strictly using PWM to control the fans.

The USB2.0 bus is what tells the PWM hub what PWM to propagate to the fans. The Corsair Link is the only one I know that uses the USB2.0 system.

https://www.newegg.ca/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811999309

This looks like a simple splitter, power comes in via the SATA power cable, the central PWM signal is then split. I wouldn't be able to say for sure if theres any amplification or repeater internally without taking it apart.

Browsing some really old forums http://www.overclockers.com/forums/showthread.php/752446-Phanteks-Fan-Hub-Little-Help

Apparently this has a built-in amplifier.

http://www.swiftech.com/8-WayPWMsplitter-sata.aspx


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dasboogieman*
> 
> I was referring to the Phanteks model which takes a PWM 4 pin signal but controls the fans via 3 pin voltage. If the fan outputs are all 3 pin, you are not strictly using PWM to control the fans. [/URL]


By simple definitlon a PWM fan hub is for PWM fan, therefore the Phanteks model is not a PWM fan hub.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dasboogieman*
> 
> The USB2.0 bus is what tells the PWM hub what PWM to propagate to the fans. The Corsair Link is the only one I know that uses the USB2.0 system.


Like I said before, Corsair Link does not seem to work very well. There have been many threads and post of users having so many problems with it they had to remove it completely.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dasboogieman*
> 
> https://www.newegg.ca/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811999309
> 
> This looks like a simple splitter, power comes in via the SATA power cable, the central PWM signal is then split. I wouldn't be able to say for sure if theres any amplification or repeater internally without taking it apart.


Link does not give a product.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dasboogieman*
> 
> Browsing some really old forums http://www.overclockers.com/forums/showthread.php/752446-Phanteks-Fan-Hub-Little-Help
> 
> Apparently this has a built-in amplifier.
> 
> http://www.swiftech.com/8-WayPWMsplitter-sata.aspx


Swifttech PWM hub does not have amplifier in it. It is a splitter hub, as the name says. I have one and like it a lot, but it is just a splitter hub, nothing more.


----------



## Dasboogieman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> By simple definitlon a PWM fan hub is for PWM fan, therefore the Phanteks model is not a PWM fan hub.
> Like I said before, Corsair Link does not seem to work very well. There have been many threads and post of users having so many problems with it they had to remove it completely.
> Link does not give a product.
> Swifttech PWM hub does not have amplifier in it. It is a splitter hub, as the name says. I have one and like it a lot, but it is just a splitter hub, nothing more.


Then your information is better than mine. Perhaps amplification isn't necessary anymore.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dasboogieman*
> 
> Then your information is better than mine. Perhaps amplification isn't necessary anymore.


I don't know if my information is better I just happen to remember a few things about PWM you didn't know. I'm sure there are many things you know information I don't.







Amplification is not a a simple thing to do. I have never seen an PWM amplification design that was proven to work as it should. Not saying it can't be done, but it's not easy or simple.


----------



## Rainmaker91

It seems to me that since I "need" such an extreme amount of fans I might need something along the lines of an Aquaero to control it all, or simply get voltage controlled fans and run them directly from 5v. As for the Phanteks PWM controlled 3 pin splitter I'm well aware of what it is, I was just curious if the one they sell separately was different at all. I still haven't gotten mine to work in the 2 years I have been using this case so I'm curious if anyone else has actually gotten it to work at all. Also the Primo controller is a bit different then the one linked to as for one it uses a molex connector for power, though the important parts are likely to be the same.

As for wheter or not my motherboard can handle the current of that amount of fans... I have a PWM connector on it that is designed for a pump so that supplies 3A @12v, other than that the 4 other connectors are able to supply 1a @12v. If I were to go for different fans I would also go for fewer fans as my current 16 fan push/pull is unnecessary, and with more noisy fans than I like (the lowest RPM they can reach is 800, which honestly is to loud). So the final fan set-up would likely be something like 2x140 Phanteks fans, 8x 120mm PWM fans and 1-2 fans for mosfet and memmory cooling. The question would be wheter or not the motherboard can handle that... I'm guessing it can, but my last one couldn't so I'll have to see what I do this time around.

As for the fans I'm looking at, that would be the Corsair ML120 which hopefully performs well @400RPM.


----------



## Splash74

Aquaero XT6 is they best fan controller/poweramp money can buy and there is endless addon modules you can buy as you go along such as RGB controllers USBpower for extra ampere and wattage.
the aquaero XT6 gives 4 PWM outputs 10w 5amps per output that is a lot of fans you can feed that monster with and loads of possibilities with the software available for it


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dasboogieman*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> By simple definitlon a PWM fan hub is for PWM fan, therefore the Phanteks model is not a PWM fan hub.
> Like I said before, Corsair Link does not seem to work very well. There have been many threads and post of users having so many problems with it they had to remove it completely.
> Link does not give a product.
> Swifttech PWM hub does not have amplifier in it. It is a splitter hub, as the name says. I have one and like it a lot, but it is just a splitter hub, nothing more.
> 
> 
> 
> Then your information is better than mine. Perhaps amplification isn't necessary anymore.
Click to expand...

You can not amplify pwm signal.

There are some custom boosters made.

Pwm is taking a 5v(or 3.3v on intel new specifications) Supply and grounding that signal out ( ie 5v(or3.3) is on 0v is off ) the problem is that per intel specs the fan provides the 5v.

The more fans you have the more power needs to be grounded. The harder it is. Eventually (it diva is far more eloquent then i in explaining this) you start to lose your lower range of rpms, with more fans. (Generally around 8 fans or so
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Dasboogieman*
> 
> Then your information is better than mine. Perhaps amplification isn't necessary anymore.
> 
> 
> 
> I don't know if my information is better I just happen to remember a few things about PWM you didn't know. I'm sure there are many things you know information I don't.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Amplification is not a a simple thing to do. I have never seen an PWM amplification design that was proven to work as it should. Not saying it can't be done, but it's not easy or simple.
Click to expand...

Iirc someone on either xs or overclocked sells custom pcbs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Splash74*
> 
> Aquaero XT6 is they best fan controller/poweramp money can buy and there is endless addon modules you can buy as you go along such as RGB controllers USBpower for extra ampere and wattage.
> the aquaero XT6 gives 4 PWM outputs 10w 5amps per output that is a lot of fans you can feed that monster with and loads of possibilities with the software available for it


Just a typo I am sure . 30w per channel. depending on your needs the xt may not be needed. The pro or lts are great choices too


----------



## Scotty99

All i know is my h440 pwm hub works flawlessly. Its designed similarly to the swiftech one i believe, im just not sure exactly how the PWM signal is being translated into volts but there must be some algorithm somewhere.


----------



## Splash74

Well the 6LT 100€ and gives the same performance but no display but I'm running 30 Corsair ML120ro red led an 4 140 ML pro in my current project and I'm actually using a 6XT flashed to work in slave mode for the XT6 in edition 3 USB power modules but PWN control is just uber I run pumps fans flowmeters everything that is PWM is enable.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Splash74*
> 
> Well the 6LT 100€ and gives the same performance but no display but I'm running 30 Corsair ML120ro red led an 4 140 ML pro in my current project and I'm actually using a 6XT flashed to work in slave mode for the XT6 in edition 3 USB power modules but PWN control is just uber I run pumps fans flowmeters everything that is PWM is enable.


I've been using an aquaero 5 XT & a LT in two of my systems for donkey's years. I never use the XT display. They do everything I can think .. except make and pour my first cup of coffee.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scotty99*
> 
> All i know is my h440 pwm hub works flawlessly. Its designed similarly to the swiftech one i believe, im just not sure exactly how the PWM signal is being translated into volts but there must be some algorithm somewhere.


You mean the Phanteks hub. At least I would assume you mean the Phanteks hub since the H440 hub has absolutely nothing in common with the Swiftech hub.


----------



## Scotty99

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> You mean the Phanteks hub. At least I would assume you mean the Phanteks hub since the H440 hub has absolutely nothing in common with the Swiftech hub.


Nah the swiftech one, http://www.swiftech.com/8-WayPWMsplitter-sata.aspx

Mine hooks up the exact same way, cpu cooler>hub>hub out to cpu fan header>case fans into hub. Powered by sata. There was a new revision of the H440 in 2015 that added a better pwm hub, old one the fans all ran at 12v.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scotty99*
> 
> Nah the swiftech one, http://www.swiftech.com/8-WayPWMsplitter-sata.aspx
> 
> Mine hooks up the exact same way, cpu cooler>hub>hub out to cpu fan header>case fans into hub. Powered by sata. There was a new revision of the H440 in 2015 that added a better pwm hub, old one the fans all ran at 12v.


It is readily apparent that you have absolutely no idea how the Swiftech, Phanteks or your own NZXT controller work. The Swiftech simply splits the PWM signal to eight fans and powers them with 12V from the PSU. The Swiftech controller is capable of controlling eight fans *by PWM*, with the PWM signal being located on the 4th pin of each fan.

The Phanteks and NZXT controllers both power the fans by PSU, also. That is where the similarity ends. Both have 3-pin fan output, which means that PWM control like the Swiftech is impossible. Both take the PWM signal and translate it into voltage control of the fans. This is *NOT* what the Swiftech does.

You really need to start researching before you post, and having a least a little understanding of how things operate before you post your "facts". This recurring theme is a bit much, as is the perpetual trolling about the wonders of the H440 in threads where it doesn't belong. No one in a Phanteks case thread wants to hear about your H440, the same as no one in the Cryorig thread wanted to hear about the wonders of your H440 and Dark Rock Pro 3 ad nauseum. We get it. You have an H440, and that makes it the most bestest case in the world, with the most bestest airflow, fan controller, can solve world peace, end hunger, stop global warming, improve global economy and cure most diseases. But you should keep the posts on topic to where you are posting. Tell the folks in an H440 thread about it, as they might care and not find it to be off topic noise.


----------



## Scotty99

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> It is readily apparent that you have absolutely no idea how the Swiftech, Phanteks or your own NZXT controller work. The Swiftech simply splits the PWM signal to eight fans and powers them with 12V from the PSU. The Swiftech controller is capable of controlling eight fans *by PWM*, with the PWM signal being located on the 4th pin of each fan.
> 
> The Phanteks and NZXT controllers both power the fans by PSU, also. That is where the similarity ends. Both have 3-pin fan output, which means that PWM control like the Swiftech is impossible. Both take the PWM signal and translate it into voltage control of the fans. This is *NOT* what the Swiftech does.
> 
> You really need to start researching before you post, and having a least a little understanding of how things operate before you post your "facts". This recurring theme is a bit much, as is the perpetual trolling about the wonders of the H440 in threads where it doesn't belong. No one in a Phanteks case thread wants to hear about your H440, the same as no one in the Cryorig thread wanted to hear about the wonders of your H440 and Dark Rock Pro 3 ad nauseum. We get it. You have an H440, and that makes it the most bestest case in the world, with the most bestest airflow, fan controller, can solve world peace, end hunger, stop global warming, improve global economy and cure most diseases. But you should keep the posts on topic to where you are posting. Tell the folks in an H440 thread about it, as they might care and not find it to be off topic noise.


Wow you really went on a tangent there lol.

Ill admit i didn't realize the swiftech had 4 pin fan outs, shoulda looked a little closer. Only reason i posted in here was to show my experience with a model that did voltage step down from PWM, considering most case fans are 3 pin was just curious as to why people weren't suggesting them. Or rather, suggesting against them.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scotty99*
> 
> Wow you really went on a tangent there lol.
> 
> Ill admit i didn't realize the swiftech had 4 pin fan outs, shoulda looked a little closer. Only reason i posted in here was to show my experience with a model that did voltage step down from PWM, considering most case fans are 3 pin was just curious as to why people weren't suggesting them. Or rather, suggesting against them.


I agree with ciarlatano's previous post. It is much better to post nothing than post false assumptions .. and post should be relevant to thread title.
I think the reason most people have problems with the Phanteks fan hub is because they think it is PWM hub which it is not, or think their 4-pin fan header is PWM when it is not. But the Phanteks hub needs at lest 0.5 amp of fan load on it to give a good low rpm idle to full speed range. I have not used the |NZXT hub so no can't comment on it's workings. Phanteks case fans are good, but many other cases come with terrible fans tha tmany of us change out to better fans that are often PWM.


----------



## NiKiZ

Playing with RGB LED strips.. Cyan + pink looks pretty nice!


----------



## Splash74

Thing is it really makes à diffrence with using Aqua computers controllers is to really test and do research from uber nerds forums using aquaero components it's the best fan controller ever made for many advantages it's up to each user to configure the desired setups . Anyone who knows of a better product please share the information


----------



## Mega Man

ek was making one. but it got thrown in the corner, buried. and has never been heard of since ....


----------



## CoolGuy90

Is it possible to remove the front panel cables that are unneeded?


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> ek was making one. but it got thrown in the corner, buried. and has never been heard of since ....


Yeah, that looked interesting. It obviously wasn't something they were doing in house. Likely couldnt get all of the players on the same page.


----------



## Kaap

As of this weekend not part of the Phanteks club anymore. The airflow issues with the Evolv ATX were disturbing to a point I was just annoyed by the case. Now in a Define S with a 24 degree case temp!


----------



## lanken123

Has anyone removed the phantek logo from the p400? Thinking of grabbing the p400s in black. Also will a h110i fit?


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kaap*
> 
> As of this weekend not part of the Phanteks club anymore. The airflow issues with the Evolv ATX were disturbing to a point I was just annoyed by the case. Now in a Define S with a 24 degree case temp!


Define S is a good case, but it's stock fans are not. 24c is good case temp .. depending on where the sensor is located.


----------



## Kaap

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Define S is a good case, but it's stock fans are not. 24c is good case temp .. depending on where the sensor is located.


Just using the 2 stock fans for rear and top exhaust. The 4 fans on the radiator are ML140's. There's a 140MM SP from NZXT below the radiator, that's going to be replaced as it just odd.

Would like to have decent RGB fans, but can't say I'm really impressed by all of them, plus I think they're overpriced.


----------



## ITAngel

So I been looking at my case and wondering what people have done to increase positive air flow on a Phanteks Evolv? Do people replace the dual 140mm fans on the front for 120mm fans? or add an additional 140mm fans on top as exhaust? Or do you think replacing the CPU cooler for an AIO 140mm/120mm will do a better job? Any help will be appreciated. Thanks!


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ITAngel*
> 
> So I been looking at my case and wondering what people have done to increase positive air flow on a Phanteks Evolv? Do people replace the dual 140mm fans on the front for 120mm fans? or add an additional 140mm fans on top as exhaust? Or do you think replacing the CPU cooler for an AIO 140mm/120mm will do a better job? Any help will be appreciated. Thanks!


The stock fans and their configuration are pretty good, no need to replace them. line up the front ones so the bottom fan sits above the PSU shroud, any air blown in there is pretty much wasted.

You could get an AIO, but don't bother with any of the aluminum ones, they're overall worse than comparable air coolers. What air cooler are you using now?

You could also remove the PCIe covers around the GPU to further improve the flow around the GPU.


----------



## ITAngel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gilles3000*
> 
> The stock fans and their configuration are pretty good, no need to replace them. line up the front ones so the bottom fan sits above the PSU shroud, any air blown in there is pretty much wasted.
> 
> You could get an AIO, but don't bother with any of the aluminum ones, they're overall worse than comparable air coolers. What air cooler are you using now?
> 
> You could also remove the PCIe covers around the GPU to further improve the flow around the GPU.


Hey Thanks for the reply back, I am currently using a Noctua NH-D15 Cooler.


----------



## owcraftsman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lanken123*
> 
> Has anyone removed the phantek logo from the p400? Thinking of grabbing the p400s in black. Also will a h110i fit?


I have not removed the logo but I have a H110i installed in my wife's P400. It's set to intake and struggles for airflow not suitable for overclocking IMHO. I think this case would better with a good air cooler if OCing is your endgame but I haven't tried it to be sure. For the wife, running stock clocks and mostly browsing the web it's very quiet with the H110i and a couple Phanteks fans, which she likes.


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ITAngel*
> 
> Hey Thanks for the reply back, I am currently using a Noctua NH-D15 Cooler.


That's plenty good, I would keep using the NH-D15.


----------



## ITAngel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *owcraftsman*
> 
> I have not removed the logo but I have a H110i installed in my wife's P400. It's set to intake and struggles for airflow not suitable for overclocking IMHO. I think this case would better with a good air cooler if OCing is your endgame but I haven't tried it to be sure. For the wife, running stock clocks and mostly browsing the web it's very quiet with the H110i and a couple Phanteks fans, which she likes.


Hey thanks for letting me know that, I didn't know they had a hard time with Overclocking and yes I will be overclocking my cpu. I just change the ram and look forward to testing to see how high I can get it to run.


----------



## owcraftsman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> It seems to me that since I "need" such an extreme amount of fans I might need something along the lines of an Aquaero to control it all, or simply get voltage controlled fans and run them directly from 5v. As for the Phanteks PWM controlled 3 pin splitter I'm well aware of what it is, I was just curious if the one they sell separately was different at all. I still haven't gotten mine to work in the 2 years I have been using this case so I'm curious if anyone else has actually gotten it to work at all. Also the Primo controller is a bit different then the one linked to as for one it uses a molex connector for power, though the important parts are likely to be the same.
> 
> As for wheter or not my motherboard can handle the current of that amount of fans... I have a PWM connector on it that is designed for a pump so that supplies 3A @12v, other than that the 4 other connectors are able to supply 1a @12v. If I were to go for different fans I would also go for fewer fans as my current 16 fan push/pull is unnecessary, and with more noisy fans than I like (the lowest RPM they can reach is 800, which honestly is to loud). So the final fan set-up would likely be something like 2x140 Phanteks fans, 8x 120mm PWM fans and 1-2 fans for mosfet and memmory cooling. The question would be wheter or not the motherboard can handle that... I'm guessing it can, but my last one couldn't so I'll have to see what I do this time around.
> 
> As for the fans I'm looking at, that would be the Corsair ML120 which hopefully performs well @400RPM.


I don't know why folks have so much problem with the 3pin fan header in Phanteks cases. It works as advertised and laid out in the manual. I control 17 fans in my Primo with the hub included with the case and Phanteks after market fan hub. They are identical except for the housing of the aftermarket one. Maybe folks are expecting it to do something it can't but I love it. They key to getting it to work properly/as expected are #1 one cable to a TRUE PWM header. Most mobo come with two of them these days which is perfect for two of these hubs. ASUS ROG boards typically separate from this norm where all headers are PWM controlled. #2 connect pwr sata or 4pin depending on hub #3 use one fan to connect to the #1 header this is the one that all others will follow as it relates to the voltage control. Any of the other header can be split to add additional fans I use no more than two way on any given header, Finally #4 it best to use all the same fans on any one hub or you will get different reaction to and a mixed results with a mixed bag of fans. I like the fact that with my MSI boards I can set up my fan curve in the bios and all works as well as I set it up. I'm certain many other mobos are capable of the same. I do, however avoid software control #1 because they don;t kick in until fully booted but #2 because most are buggy. If you have ever been in the process of tuning in a great Oveerclock and had a system freeze before the fans kick up a knotch you know exactly what I mean. Again I'll say this is why I love the Phanteks hubs they are simple and just work. One thing for sure it's way cheaper than Aquaero.


----------



## ITAngel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *owcraftsman*
> 
> I don't know why folks have so much problem with the 3pin fan header in Phanteks cases. It works as advertised and laid out in the manual. I control 17 fans in my Primo with the hub included with the case and Phanteks after market fan hub. They are identical except for the housing of the aftermarket one. Maybe folks are expecting it to do something it can't but I love it. They key to getting it to work properly/as expected are #1 one cable to a TRUE PWM header. Most mobo come with two of them these days which is perfect for two of these hubs. ASUS ROG boards typically separate from this norm where all headers are PWM controlled. #2 connect pwr sata or 4pin depending on hub #3 use one fan to connect to the #1 header this is the one that all others will follow as it relates to the voltage control. Any of the other header can be split to add additional fans I use no more than two way on any given header, Finally #4 it best to use all the same fans on any one hub or you will get different reaction to and a mixed results with a mixed bag of fans. I like the fact that with my MSI boards I can set up my fan curve in the bios and all works as well as I set it up. I'm certain many other mobos are capable of the same. I do, however avoid software control #1 because they don;t kick in until fully booted but #2 because most are buggy. If you have ever been in the process of tuning in a great Oveerclock and had a system freeze before the fans kick up a knotch you know exactly what I mean. Again I'll say this is why I love the Phanteks hubs they are simple and just work. One thing for sure it's way cheaper than Aquaero.


Oh nice that works I do have them connected all the fans. I though if I put two more fans on top like 140mm or 3 fans on the front like 120mm that will help incase air flow and move air easier. I can move the two 140mm front fans to the top and then put 3x 120mm or 2x 140mm on the front. But I may just keep it like this since I started experiencing some issues with my PNY SSD so I may need to go today and grab a Samsung 850 Evo.


----------



## ITAngel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gilles3000*
> 
> That's plenty good, I would keep using the NH-D15.


Thanks it is a great cooler so far enjoy it and keep my CPU at 40C even when overclocked during gaming.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ITAngel*
> 
> Oh nice that works I do have them connected all the fans. I though if I put two more fans on top like 140mm or 3 fans on the front like 120mm that will help incase air flow and move air easier. I can move the two 140mm front fans to the top and then put 3x 120mm or 2x 140mm on the front. But I may just keep it like this since I started experiencing some issues with my PNY SSD so I may need to go today and grab a Samsung 850 Evo.


Don't switch out to 3 x 120mm in the front. Due to the layout and midplate, you essentially wind up with only ~2.3 of them moving air into the main chamber. Move the two F140SP up to the top positions, and add an 80mm under them if you are using HDD.

Also, adding fans up top will do little if anything to help your cooling.


----------



## ITAngel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Don't switch out to 3 x 120mm in the front. Due to the layout and midplate, you essentially wind up with only ~2.3 of them moving air into the main chamber. Move the two F140SP up to the top positions, and add an 80mm under them if you are using HDD.
> 
> Also, adding fans up top will do little if anything to help your cooling.


Oh hey man thanks for coming to this thread. Well, I see what you mean, i did move them last night to the top the two 140mm on the front. But I never knew you can add a 80mm on the bottom. I do use HDD on the chamber so would be helpful. What 80mm fan that is not noisy I can put there? All I know anything smaller than 120mm will be noisy. I do have a home music studio so trying to keep noise level down. Thanks!


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ITAngel*
> 
> Oh hey man thanks for coming to this thread. Well, I see what you mean, i did move them last night to the top the two 140mm on the front. But I never knew you can add a 80mm on the bottom. I do use HDD on the chamber so would be helpful. What 80mm fan that is not noisy I can put there? All I know anything smaller than 120mm will be noisy. I do have a home music studio so trying to keep noise level down. Thanks!


I use an Arctic 80mm PWM and run it at low speeds. You don't need a lot of air to keep the drives cool, and below around 800 rpm the Arctic is nearly inaudible with the front panel on.

BTW - it will just pressure fit in, no mounting. You just need to block off the sides.


----------



## ITAngel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> I use an Arctic 80mm PWM and run it at low speeds. You don't need a lot of air to keep the drives cool, and below around 800 rpm the Arctic is nearly inaudible with the front panel on.
> 
> BTW - it will just pressure fit in, no mounting. You just need to block off the sides.


Oh nice checking on amazon for that fan to get one order soon.


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *owcraftsman*
> 
> I don't know why folks have so much problem with the 3pin fan header in Phanteks cases. It works as advertised and laid out in the manual. I control 17 fans in my Primo with the hub included with the case and Phanteks after market fan hub. They are identical except for the housing of the aftermarket one. Maybe folks are expecting it to do something it can't but I love it. They key to getting it to work properly/as expected are #1 one cable to a TRUE PWM header. Most mobo come with two of them these days which is perfect for two of these hubs. ASUS ROG boards typically separate from this norm where all headers are PWM controlled. #2 connect pwr sata or 4pin depending on hub #3 use one fan to connect to the #1 header this is the one that all others will follow as it relates to the voltage control. Any of the other header can be split to add additional fans I use no more than two way on any given header, Finally #4 it best to use all the same fans on any one hub or you will get different reaction to and a mixed results with a mixed bag of fans. I like the fact that with my MSI boards I can set up my fan curve in the bios and all works as well as I set it up. I'm certain many other mobos are capable of the same. I do, however avoid software control #1 because they don;t kick in until fully booted but #2 because most are buggy. If you have ever been in the process of tuning in a great Oveerclock and had a system freeze before the fans kick up a knotch you know exactly what I mean. Again I'll say this is why I love the Phanteks hubs they are simple and just work. One thing for sure it's way cheaper than Aquaero.


Maybe because a ton of them are just DOA? I know perfectly well how it's supposed to work, but I haven't gotten it to work once since I bought the case. Honestly it would be a great little device if it actually worked, but mine doesn't. As unfortunate as that is it's just the reality of it, though I also know quite a few have expected it to work in a way that it simply should not be able to.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *owcraftsman*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> It seems to me that since I "need" such an extreme amount of fans I might need something along the lines of an Aquaero to control it all, or simply get voltage controlled fans and run them directly from 5v. As for the Phanteks PWM controlled 3 pin splitter I'm well aware of what it is, I was just curious if the one they sell separately was different at all. I still haven't gotten mine to work in the 2 years I have been using this case so I'm curious if anyone else has actually gotten it to work at all. Also the Primo controller is a bit different then the one linked to as for one it uses a molex connector for power, though the important parts are likely to be the same.
> 
> As for wheter or not my motherboard can handle the current of that amount of fans... I have a PWM connector on it that is designed for a pump so that supplies 3A @12v, other than that the 4 other connectors are able to supply 1a @12v. If I were to go for different fans I would also go for fewer fans as my current 16 fan push/pull is unnecessary, and with more noisy fans than I like (the lowest RPM they can reach is 800, which honestly is to loud). So the final fan set-up would likely be something like 2x140 Phanteks fans, 8x 120mm PWM fans and 1-2 fans for mosfet and memmory cooling. The question would be wheter or not the motherboard can handle that... I'm guessing it can, but my last one couldn't so I'll have to see what I do this time around.
> 
> As for the fans I'm looking at, that would be the Corsair ML120 which hopefully performs well @400RPM.
> 
> 
> 
> I don't know why folks have so much problem with the 3pin fan header in Phanteks cases. It works as advertised and laid out in the manual. I control 17 fans in my Primo with the hub included with the case and Phanteks after market fan hub. They are identical except for the housing of the aftermarket one. Maybe folks are expecting it to do something it can't but I love it. They key to getting it to work properly/as expected are #1 one cable to a TRUE PWM header. Most mobo come with two of them these days which is perfect for two of these hubs. ASUS ROG boards typically separate from this norm where all headers are PWM controlled. #2 connect pwr sata or 4pin depending on hub #3 use one fan to connect to the #1 header this is the one that all others will follow as it relates to the voltage control. Any of the other header can be split to add additional fans I use no more than two way on any given header, Finally #4 it best to use all the same fans on any one hub or you will get different reaction to and a mixed results with a mixed bag of fans. I like the fact that with my MSI boards I can set up my fan curve in the bios and all works as well as I set it up. I'm certain many other mobos are capable of the same. I do, however avoid software control #1 because they don;t kick in until fully booted but #2 because most are buggy. If you have ever been in the process of tuning in a great Oveerclock and had a system freeze before the fans kick up a knotch you know exactly what I mean. Again I'll say this is why I love the Phanteks hubs they are simple and just work. One thing for sure it's way cheaper than Aquaero.
Click to expand...

ill just stick to real pwm fans, and a aquaero. even if not pwm fans, aquaero ! lifes better here. if my pc freezes, well aquaero has its own built in cpu and keeps on-a-chugging


----------



## ITAngel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> I use an Arctic 80mm PWM and run it at low speeds. You don't need a lot of air to keep the drives cool, and below around 800 rpm the Arctic is nearly inaudible with the front panel on.
> 
> BTW - it will just pressure fit in, no mounting. You just need to block off the sides.


Like this here? I have not blocked the side yet.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ITAngel*
> 
> Like this here? I have not blocked the side yet.


Exactly like that.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ITAngel*
> 
> Like this here? I have not blocked the side yet.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


it helps to block all the other unused openings / holes in the panel the fans are mounted to. Doing so make the air flow back through the case instead of leaking back into the fan space between front cover and fan mounting panel and back through the fan .. and leaking back and going back into fan .. over and over and over









If you do decide to mount fans in the top, (I suggest not doing it) you will need to block all unused openings in that panel too.


----------



## ITAngel

Oh okay, cool. Thanks! I can do another 80mm up there too. I might have 3x 120mm Nidec Servo GentleTyphoon 120mm Case Fan 2150 PWM hopefully to test the front today and noise levels. It would be interesting to test like this and also with the 3x 120mm fans installed.









*Nidec Servo GentleTyphoon 120mm Case Fan 2150 PWM*
Specifications
Fan Speed: 900 - 2150 RPM
Fan Noise: 15 - 34 dB max
Air Flow: 20 - 68 CFM
A: 0.13 - 0.23
Voltage: 12V
Bearing Type: Double Ball
MTBF: 100,000 @35C / 60,000 @60C
Connector: 4 Pin PWM /


----------



## Melcar

Yeah, if you put fans on the top you will have to cover up all the extra holes up there. Intakes can be problematic too, since usually they will draw more dust.


----------



## ITAngel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Melcar*
> 
> Yeah, if you put fans on the top you will have to cover up all the extra holes up there. Intakes can be problematic too, since usually they will draw more dust.


Oh i see what you mean so far no fans on top but has anyone done this so I can take a look at pictures of their system?


----------



## Melcar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ITAngel*
> 
> Oh i see what you mean so far no fans on top but has anyone done this so I can take a look at pictures of their system?


This is on my Enthoo Pro...



Currently I have 2 PH-F140MPs as intakes in the two top-front positions. The smaller holes at the sides I just cover with duct tape. The fans do end up drawing much more dust than the front or even bottom fans, so I had to put some extra filters on them. The top filter on the Pro is not removable like the other ones, so I will have some fun cleaning it once it gets all chocked up with dust







. Still, that's the only way to provide direct airflow to a tower CPU cooler in the Enthoo Pro without some invasive modding.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Melcar*
> 
> This is on my Enthoo Pro...
> 
> 
> 
> Currently I have 2 PH-F140MPs as intakes in the two top-front positions. The smaller holes at the sides I just cover with duct tape. The fans do end up drawing much more dust than the front or even bottom fans, so I had to put some extra filters on them. The top filter on the Pro is not removable like the other ones, so I will have some fun cleaning it once it gets all chocked up with dust
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Still, that's the only way to provide direct airflow to a tower CPU cooler in the Enthoo Pro without some invasive modding.


Real PH-F140MP or the not model number case fans Phanteks advertises as being PH-F140SP but are not and look like PH-F14pMP but have no model number on them. These 'no-model' fans have been in cases for about a year, maybe a little more.


----------



## Melcar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Real PH-F140MP or the not model number case fans Phanteks advertises as being PH-F140SP but are not and look like PH-F14pMP but have no model number on them. These 'no-model' fans have been in cases for about a year, maybe a little more.


The real ones (Amazon was practically giving them away a few weeks ago). The stock fans are gathering dust in a box somewhere.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Melcar*
> 
> The real ones (Amazon was practically giving them away a few weeks ago). The stock fans are gathering dust in a box somewhere.


So you did not like the no-model / no spec included fans? Or did you want PWM control. Just curious because I have not used any of the no-model fans.


----------



## Melcar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> So you did not like the no-model / no spec included fans? Or did you want PWM control. Just curious because I have not used any of the no-model fans.


I have only used the 14cm one. It's good, but the white blades don't go with the overall color theme of my build, which is a bit of a rainbow right now but I won't make it worse by sticking a white bladed fan there







.


----------



## Maplesyrup

Quick question for you all. I just bought an enthoo evolve atx glass since I'm doing some upgrades, and of course all the reviews I read were absolutely positive. I start doing some reading so that when it's time to build I already know all the nuances and lo and behold I see all these threads across numerous forums about the airflow. That said, I will be reusing a h115i for the time being until I move back to air cooling. I'd just like to know what the most current suggestion is for setting the case up with a 280mm AIO. I've been researching for days but there is a lot of conflicting information. I was thinking of possibly just blocking off all the holes on the top cover and running 1x 140mm exhaust and putting the rad in the front, but that seems like I wouldn't have exhaust. I could also run the AIO in the top and block off the extra space. Like I said though, I've seen a ton of different suggestions with no clear cut "winner". What would some of you suggest?

This will be a cooling a 1600x (I know I know, it was actually the same cost as the regular 1600 would have cost me). I have a MSI GTX1080 gaming and just 1 ssd and 1 hdd. Not looking for a silver bullet but just the most efficient setup until I grab a cryo r1 or dark rock pro


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Maplesyrup*
> 
> Quick question for you all. I just bought an enthoo evolve atx glass since I'm doing some upgrades, and of course all the reviews I read were absolutely positive. I start doing some reading so that when it's time to build I already know all the nuances and lo and behold I see all these threads across numerous forums about the airflow. That said, I will be reusing a h115i for the time being until I move back to air cooling. I'd just like to know what the most current suggestion is for setting the case up with a 280mm AIO. I've been researching for days but there is a lot of conflicting information. I was thinking of possibly just blocking off all the holes on the top cover and running 1x 140mm exhaust and putting the rad in the front, but that seems like I wouldn't have exhaust. I could also run the AIO in the top and block off the extra space. Like I said though, I've seen a ton of different suggestions with no clear cut "winner". What would some of you suggest?
> 
> This will be a cooling a 1600x (I know I know, it was actually the same cost as the regular 1600 would have cost me). I have a MSI GTX1080 gaming and just 1 ssd and 1 hdd. Not looking for a silver bullet but just the most efficient setup until I grab a cryo r1 or dark rock pro


I'd mount it up top and seal the gaps around it, mounting it up front is just going to reduce and warm up your air intake, resulting in higher case and GPU temperatures.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Maplesyrup*
> 
> Quick question for you all. I just bought an enthoo evolve atx glass since I'm doing some upgrades, and of course all the reviews I read were absolutely positive. I start doing some reading so that when it's time to build I already know all the nuances and lo and behold I see all these threads across numerous forums about the airflow. That said, I will be reusing a h115i for the time being until I move back to air cooling. I'd just like to know what the most current suggestion is for setting the case up with a 280mm AIO. I've been researching for days but there is a lot of conflicting information. I was thinking of possibly just blocking off all the holes on the top cover and running 1x 140mm exhaust and putting the rad in the front, but that seems like I wouldn't have exhaust. I could also run the AIO in the top and block off the extra space. Like I said though, I've seen a ton of different suggestions with no clear cut "winner". What would some of you suggest?
> 
> This will be a cooling a 1600x (I know I know, it was actually the same cost as the regular 1600 would have cost me). I have a MSI GTX1080 gaming and just 1 ssd and 1 hdd. Not looking for a silver bullet but just the most efficient setup until I grab a cryo r1 or dark rock pro


What Gilles3000 said.
You are putting a 280 AIO (I assume CLC) on a 64w TDP CPU and using stock cooler on a 180w TDP GPU. Not logical, but then neither is using a 280 AIO instead of a lower cost and more dependable air cooler that will cool just as well and e quieter (absolutely no pump noise).


----------



## Maplesyrup

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gilles3000*
> 
> I'd mount it up top and seal the gaps around it, mounting it up front is just going to reduce and warm up your air intake, resulting in higher case and GPU temperatures.


I assume the stock fans would be left in the 1 exhaust and 2 intake configuration in that case, correct? I've seen several posts about blocking the open space around the radiator, I assumed that was likely what I was going to do but wasn't sure if anything had changed since this is a gigantic thread to keep track of. Thank you.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> What Gilles3000 said.
> You are putting a 280 AIO (I assume CLC) on a 64w TDP CPU and using stock cooler on a 180w TDP GPU. Not logical, but then neither is using a 280 AIO instead of a lower cost and more dependable air cooler that will cool just as well and e quieter,


Which is why in my original post I said the h115i is going in the build temporarily until I go back to an air cooler. I came by the AIO pretty cheap and came across it before I know any better. I already have an am4 bracket for it. I wanted to get this put together this week as I was gifting the old components to a friend before he moves. Didn't really feel like waiting and seeing if I could get an am4 bracket for a big cooler on time. I've seen plenty of arguments for AIOs in this thread and I am not one to defend them as air coolers are better. Merely seeing if I had a grasp on how to make do with what I have for the time being.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Maplesyrup*
> 
> I assume the stock fans would be left in the 1 exhaust and 2 intake configuration in that case, correct? I've seen several posts about blocking the open space around the radiator, I assumed that was likely what I was going to do but wasn't sure if anything had changed since this is a gigantic thread to keep track of. Thank you.
> 
> Which is why in my original post I said the h115i is going in the build temporarily until I go back to an air cooler. I came by the AIO pretty cheap and came across it before I know any better. I already have an am4 bracket for it. I wanted to get this put together this week as I was gifting the old components to a friend before he moves. Didn't really feel like waiting and seeing if I could get an am4 bracket for a big cooler on time. I've seen plenty of arguments for AIOs in this thread and I am not one to defend them as air coolers are better. Merely seeing if I had a grasp on how to make do with what I have for the time being.


Stock fan placement is best.

It will work in top just fine. I was not trying to offend, only point out that with your low wattage CPU you won't need a lot of airflow, so even though top venting is limited it should cool just fine on your low wattage CPU. Most new coolers now come with AM4 mounts.


----------



## Maplesyrup

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Stock fan placement is best.
> 
> It will work in top just fine. I was not trying to offend, only point out that with your low wattage CPU you won't need a lot of airflow, so even though top venting is limited it should cool just fine on your low wattage CPU. Most new coolers now come with AM4 mounts.


My mistake, wasn't offended but definitely misread your intent. I'm sure the temps will be fine either way but if I can keep temps low I like to. I figure the cooler things are running the quieter I can get everything.

I was trying to have some patience for once and wait for a sale on a cooler I wanted. Nothing was on sale recently unfortunately so the h115i stayed so that everything else can go on to another home.


----------



## Dimensive

Does anyone know the post here with the front panel mod for the EVOLV ITX? I believe it was just some washers used to give more spacing between the front panel and front fans.


----------



## viperguy212

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dimensive*
> 
> Does anyone know the post here with the front panel mod for the EVOLV ITX? I believe it was just some washers used to give more spacing between the front panel and front fans.


A little bit of Google here and there and I found this, seems interesting:


----------



## d0mmie

Anyone known if there exists a modded top mesh panel for the Enthoo Luxe? I'm installing a radiator in the top pushing the air out, but the current mesh is just way too restrictive. I thought about removing the dust filter inside, but that won't be enough I'm afraid.


----------



## Dimensive

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *viperguy212*
> 
> A little bit of Google here and there and I found this, seems interesting:


Interesting, but the EVOLV ITX front panel is designed differently.


----------



## zoneuk

How can I replace the front fan cover holding clips, I was not sent the clips but the full front plastic with clips already installed, I would have changed the full front but the problem is it has no door or any aluminium covering the plastic

Can anyone help,

also I want to lift the case off the ground a bit more, the rubber feet dont do much and some have come off moving the case.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *viperguy212*
> 
> A little bit of Google here and there and I found this, seems interesting:


Lol, this video just doesn't get any older. It's one of the those videos that @doyll is really furious about


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Lol, this video just doesn't get any older. It's one of the those videos that @doyll
> is really furious about


That one has at least has some reality to it and was trying to show what he did and how it helped. I don't like the use of foam as a spacer, but at least he is in touch with reality.








The review site videos with talking head videos acting like they live in some un-Earthly reality with puppet like hand and head gyrations while spouting hyped up rubbish to draw attention to themselves are what I take exception to.








And if anyone asks, you made me do it.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> That one has at least has some reality to it and was trying to show what he did and how it helped. I don't like the use of foam as a spacer, but at least he is in touch with reality.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The review site videos with talking head videos acting like they live in some un-Earthly reality with puppet like hand and head gyrations while spouting hyped up rubbish to draw attention to themselves are what I take exception to.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And if anyone asks, you made me do it.


Is that JayzTwoCents? Lol


----------



## viperguy212

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Is that JayzTwoCents? Lol


Only if you add 3-4 6 year old phallic joke per review


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Is that JayzTwoCents? Lol


Him too, but linus is much much worse ..* *gag wretch* *
Maybe 1 out of 10 things (often not even words) out of his mouth has any meaning or relevance.
Making claims that fans in pull mode on radiators are better than push mode because lint/dust collects between fan and radiator in push mode.








Setting up a 'sound booth' to test the dB level of Calyos 70 pound passive cooling work station.














Poor little guy (not to mention his obnotious high pitched voice) couldn't even taek it out of it's shipping trunk.


----------



## ITAngel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> it helps to block all the other unused openings / holes in the panel the fans are mounted to. Doing so make the air flow back through the case instead of leaking back into the fan space between front cover and fan mounting panel and back through the fan .. and leaking back and going back into fan .. over and over and over
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you do decide to mount fans in the top, (I suggest not doing it) you will need to block all unused openings in that panel too.


I am doing an experiment and so far looks like it could work pretty well. I have in the front 3x 120mm GT Fans plus the 2x 140mm on top. Covering the holes will be fairly easy to do if I end up learning the setup the way it is.




With this setup I felt a stronger suction from the crack of the front panel which tells me is pulling more air in.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *viperguy212*
> 
> Only if you add 3-4 6 year old phallic joke per review


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Him too, but linus is much much worse ..* *gag wretch* *
> Maybe 1 out of 10 things (often not even words) out of his mouth has any meaning or relevance.
> Making claims that fans in pull mode on radiators are better than push mode because lint/dust collects between fan and radiator in push mode.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Setting up a 'sound booth' to test the dB level of Calyos 70 pound passive cooling work station.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Poor little guy (not to mention his obnotious high pitched voice) couldn't even taek it out of it's shipping trunk.


Lol. I'm subscribed to both their Youtube channels just for the sake of "recreational" watching of stuff. Who do you think is a good reviewer?


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ITAngel*
> 
> I am doing an experiment and so far looks like it could work pretty well. I have in the front 3x 120mm GT Fans plus the 2x 140mm on top. Covering the holes will be fairly easy to do if I end up learning the setup the way it is.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With this setup I felt a stronger suction from the crack of the front panel which tells me is pulling more air in.


Keep in mind you really won't know how much the difference is until you do block the holes.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Lol. I'm subscribed to both their Youtube channels just for the sake of "recreational" watching of stuff. Who do you think is a good reviewer?


Bill at MNPCTech .. actually any of the people of MNPCTech and The Mod Zoo. They are professionals who happen to do both written and video reviews and guides. George Cella has some old videos on U-tube. Honestly I don't like video reveiws. I much prefer written ones. I can read and digest the data in a text format is a fraction the time it takes a video to run it's course.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> George Cella has some old videos on U-tube. Honestly I don't like video reveiws. I much prefer written ones. I can read and digest the data in a text format is a fraction the time it takes a video to run it's course.


I have it on good authority that guy thinks video reviews are a total joke compared to written, as well.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> I have it on good authority that guy thinks video reviews are a total joke compared to written, as well.


LOL/ROFL He did a good job in videos, but serious comparisons of data is near impossible with video reviews.
While video can show some things (like actual installation) better than written review, there are so many more things that a written review can detail much better, like analyzing data. Comparing data on spreadsheets and / or graphs is impossible on video. No way can we look at different spreadsheets and graphs in a video .. it's becomes a believe what author talking head says or turn of the video .. which is what i do 99 times out of 100.


----------



## Bill Owen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Bill at MNPCTech .. actually any of the people of MNPCTech and The Mod Zoo. They are professionals who happen to do both written and video reviews and guides. George Cella has some old videos on U-tube. Honestly I don't like video reveiws. I much prefer written ones. I can read and digest the data in a text format is a fraction the time it takes a video to run it's course.


Thank you Sir!









Mosquito and I tried a new "LIVE REVIEW" format, which allows you to ask questions and share immediate feedback. It's also presented questions about the case that we may have overlooked or never thought about









Let me know your thoughts? (Audio Quality has improved since this one)


----------



## AlphaC

Has anyone modded the P400S tempered Glass case to improve airflow? For $79 MSRP it seems like the cheapest thing to mod (although In Win 303 seems to have a tempered glass version for $100 that requires no modding ; same for Corsair 460X).

Form GamersNexus results and other sites it seems the intake at top and bottom of the front panel is really restrictive.

The cooling performance per bit-tech is not as horrible though.

The case results without the front panel are pretty decent and very good for the GPU.




An alternative is keeping with the design language of the Enthoo Primo, Enthoo Luxe, and Enthoo Elite: an offset panel in the middle with unimpeded airflow around the baffle (similar to an ac vent).

massive restriction:



----

ModMyMods is profiting from using the ShopBot CNC to cut the top panel on the Evolv cases right now.


----------



## cyphon

I'm interested in the evolv matx for a water-cooled build. Looks like it would suppprt some decent rad space and pump pretty easily without the HDD cages.

Anyone have any reviews or builds on this case for water-cooled that I can look at?


----------



## FriskyEskimo

Hey! I'm building my first gaming pc and was looking to get an Evolv ATX. I've been looking all over and can't really seem to find much on this subject but what would you say is the best configuration in terms of cooling the pc? H100i Rad in front as an intake and 140mm fans on top and back as exhaust? H100i on top exhaust and 2 x 140mm fans as intake in front and 140mm in exhaust? Or just air cool it with a cryorig R1 ultimate? https://pcpartpicker.com/list/QDKs4C thats my parts list. I appreciate any help I could get!


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FriskyEskimo*
> 
> Hey! I'm building my first gaming pc and was looking to get an Evolv ATX. I've been looking all over and can't really seem to find much on this subject but what would you say is the best configuration in terms of cooling the pc? H100i Rad in front as an intake and 140mm fans on top and back as exhaust? H100i on top exhaust and 2 x 140mm fans as intake in front and 140mm in exhaust? Or just air cool it with a cryorig R1 ultimate? https://pcpartpicker.com/list/QDKs4C thats my parts list. I appreciate any help I could get!


Cryorig R1 Ultimate with stock case fans plugged to motherboard for speed control.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FriskyEskimo*
> 
> Hey! I'm building my first gaming pc and was looking to get an Evolv ATX. I've been looking all over and can't really seem to find much on this subject but what would you say is the best configuration in terms of cooling the pc? H100i Rad in front as an intake and 140mm fans on top and back as exhaust? H100i on top exhaust and 2 x 140mm fans as intake in front and 140mm in exhaust? Or just air cool it with a cryorig R1 ultimate? https://pcpartpicker.com/list/QDKs4C thats my parts list. I appreciate any help I could get!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Cryorig R1 Ultimate with stock case fans plugged to motherboard for speed control.


Agree with @doyll. The best placement for the H100i is back on the store shelf. Stay with the R1.


----------



## Maplesyrup

Definitely just go with the r1 ultimate. I recently built in this case and had to reuse my h115i for the time being. Everything in the case actually stays super cool (32ish) at idle and doesn't get much hotter than mid 50s while gaming, but at high loads during prolonged stress testing it'll start climbing into the 70s due to the gradual heat recirculating from the attic. In any which case it's an absolute dream to build in and there should be plenty of room with an r1 in there.

As others stated leave the stock fans where they are, that's what I did and it appears as though they do a good job of moving air from front to back but putting a rad in there will mess that up


----------



## viperguy212

Well I decided to go on a Home Depot adventure tonight and give a front panel mod a shot. Pics and details below:

*Parts:*

6 pack of #6-32x1/2 in round head machine screws
2 packs of 1/4 in nylon spacers
1 pack of #8 flat washers
*Pics:*






*Results:*

I have no idea lol. My whole build is disassembled and will be for a week but I'll say it looks factory, everything is still accessible, and the air gap is deffinately bigger. For under $5 I'll say its a win.

For the record I'm totally cool with calling this the "viper" mod.


----------



## Rainmaker91

Anyone know of some pre made 3d models of the Enthoo Primo? I'm thinking of doing a mock-up in either Sketchup or blender this time around, there will be a bit more intricate work with my rebuild so I would love a good 3d representation of it before I start cutting.

I did find this one in the 3d warehouse, but it's mentioned that it's not accurate, so I'm unsure if that would be a decent base to work from.


----------



## PetrasSukys

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> Anyone know of some pre made 3d models of the Enthoo Primo? I'm thinking of doing a mock-up in either Sketchup or blender this time around, there will be a bit more intricate work with my rebuild so I would love a good 3d representation of it before I start cutting.
> 
> I did find this one in the 3d warehouse, but it's mentioned that it's not accurate, so I'm unsure if that would be a decent base to work from.


I am the creator of that model in the warehouse and I've based my build on it. It was accurate enough for fitting lots of rads, and even custom gpu/res bracket. It still holds that you should leave couple of 1-2mm breathing space on any part


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PetrasSukys*
> 
> I am the creator of that model in the warehouse and I've based my build on it. It was accurate enough for fitting lots of rads, and even custom gpu/res bracket. It still holds that you should leave couple of 1-2mm breathing space on any part


I'll probably do that anyway, for the most part I'm mostly after a model so that I can do mockups of new fan grills various other modifications. I'll probably also import new textures to see if things actually fit well together before painting and buying stuff.

I'll probably use that then and see what other resources there are in the 3d warehouse, maybe I can get away with doing a bare minimum of modelling work myself.


----------



## Dimensive




----------



## pez

The case is kinda growing on me, but I'm not convinced just yet. I hate that he didn't take the time to use a modular PSU to show off the potential for the cable management. I'll just have to rely on user builds to see about that. The great part is it doesn't look like I would have to get any of my cables redone for this case if I do bite the bullet.


----------



## doyll

Both Evlov Shift and Evolv Shift X look good in pics and preliminary reviews. I'm hoping to get one to review myself and let you all know what I think.


----------



## jpm888

I quite like the shift. Im really unsure about the airflow though.

The shift x looks like a better deal since you can use an atx psu and it has a lot more space.


----------



## pez

It's a good price for what it is I think, and I may bite just because of that. It'd fit well with my setup, too. I don't think I'd have to change a single component or cable about my setup, either. I am a bit curious about the airflow as well as someone who currently has 120 AIOs on CPU and GPU.


----------



## smithydan




----------



## smithydan




----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smithydan*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Vid.


Nice, but you should just use the edit button instead of reposting.

Edit: and you can use the video tag instead of the YT's embed line, its faster and shorter.


----------



## NiKiZ

So, I am poor and I was not able to buy all the parts at once, so I built my computer gradually. It took quite a while to build it, because I got depressed and lost my interest for a while.. The computer started really ghetto, but it turned out nice.

I found some pictures of the early stages of my computer and decided to post the progress here.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



I don't have any pictures of this, but first I didn't have a case, just got the motherboard, CPU, RAM, SSD and the CPU cooler. Rigged them on top of the motherboard box and used it as is Used some parts of my old PC, like the GPU and the PSU. My old case was a POS HP case that was mATX so I couldn't use it.

Later I got an old Fujitsu Siemens ATX case for free from my friend so I could temporarily house the components inside it.


I should have bought the case next, but.. The exact model of the RAM I bought was discontinued and it was in outlet for a discounted price. Also the first kit I got was free in a CPU + RAM + MB bundle. If I wanted to add more RAM later, I wouldn't be able to get the exact same model of RAM.. So I decided to buy the last kit they had in stock. I got total of 4x4Gb 3000MHz sticks of RAM for 62€, nice. I think it would have cost about 200€ normally. Also, the Corsair H110i GT was in outlet for a nice price and my CPU was a good overclocker.. I had to get it too.. I also needed more space, so I got a second SSD..

So, I ghettorigged the liquid cooler to the Fujitsu siemens case with some steel wire..









Here you will see my amazing mounting solution.


At this point I met a girl and started dating, so I had less money to spend on my computer..

Later I finally bought a Phanteks Enthoo Pro M Acrylic case. Pretty happy with it. I had to use the crappy, ugly PSU for now. But now I wouldn't be too embarrassed about my computer and I would dare to invite her to my place.










Finally got a proper PSU. I chose the RM750i because of the monochrome look that would match the motherboard. I also got some nice cablemod cables and replaced the radiator fans to match the black and white color scheme.


The next step would be to replace the GPU, but I REALLY wanted a GTX 1070, but I wouldn't have too much money left for the rest of the month.. So I bought some new accessories for a while. The GPU was powerful enough to run most of the games smoothly at medium settings, so it wasn't urgent to upgrade it. It ran Black Ops 3 and Portal 2 smoothly and we often played them in split screen. Good times..

At the end of 2016, she broke up with me.. I got really depressed and lost my interest in basically everything.. I wasn't interested in gaming or building my computer anymore. I think the only thing I got for a while was a new keyboard because my old one broke.

6 months later I started to get my life back together, even though I still miss her. I started toplay games again and decided to save some money. A month later I finally bought the GTX 1070! I was lucky to get one for a good price, because the mining craze. Literally the next day I ordered the card, the price went up by 100€.


I decided to add some RGB lightning too.


----------



## GuniGuGu

I'm really keen on the smaller shift evolv... But curious about cooling.

Anyone have suggestions on best setup for a build with an AIO for the CPU and a blower GTX1070?

should the AIO be on the bottom exhausting out with 2x120mm on the front in take for the GPU and mobo?


----------



## Dasboogieman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GuniGuGu*
> 
> I'm really keen on the smaller shift evolv... But curious about cooling.
> 
> Anyone have suggestions on best setup for a build with an AIO for the CPU and a blower GTX1070?
> 
> should the AIO be on the bottom exhausting out with 2x120mm on the front in take for the GPU and mobo?


Practicality wise, I don't think it makes too much of a difference.

If we're talking theoreticals, a 240mm AIO as a top exhaust is ideal when paired with a blower GPU. This allows promotion of a very natural flow of air through your system.


----------



## GuniGuGu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dasboogieman*
> 
> Practicality wise, I don't think it makes too much of a difference.
> 
> If we're talking theoreticals, a 240mm AIO as a top exhaust is ideal when paired with a blower GPU. This allows promotion of a very natural flow of air through your system.


Yeah, I've read the same thing... but surely the fans on the front of a case (not tied to the rad) make a difference if they are intake or exhaust...
The default config on the Shift Evolv is one exhaust on the Front (top half). That is it. It seems strange to me.


----------



## Dasboogieman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GuniGuGu*
> 
> Yeah, I've read the same thing... but surely the fans on the front of a case (not tied to the rad) make a difference if they are intake or exhaust...
> The default config on the Shift Evolv is one exhaust on the Front (top half). That is it. It seems strange to me.


The devil you are looking at is the energy dissipation which is why we don't see a difference. Even if you put an AIO at the front that feeds air directly to the GPU, your CPU is really only outputting 120W of heat tops. Whereas the opposite, if you use an open air GPU which exhausts air in to an AIO, you are dumping 300W of heat within the same volume, blowers don't have this issue .


----------



## pez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NiKiZ*
> 
> So, I am poor and I was not able to buy all the parts at once, so I built my computer gradually. It took quite a while to build it, because I got depressed and lost my interest for a while.. The computer started really ghetto, but it turned out nice.
> 
> I found some pictures of the early stages of my computer and decided to post the progress here.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> I don't have any pictures of this, but first I didn't have a case, just got the motherboard, CPU, RAM, SSD and the CPU cooler. Rigged them on top of the motherboard box and used it as is Used some parts of my old PC, like the GPU and the PSU. My old case was a POS HP case that was mATX so I couldn't use it.
> 
> Later I got an old Fujitsu Siemens ATX case for free from my friend so I could temporarily house the components inside it.
> 
> 
> I should have bought the case next, but.. The exact model of the RAM I bought was discontinued and it was in outlet for a discounted price. Also the first kit I got was free in a CPU + RAM + MB bundle. If I wanted to add more RAM later, I wouldn't be able to get the exact same model of RAM.. So I decided to buy the last kit they had in stock. I got total of 4x4Gb 3000MHz sticks of RAM for 62€, nice. I think it would have cost about 200€ normally. Also, the Corsair H110i GT was in outlet for a nice price and my CPU was a good overclocker.. I had to get it too.. I also needed more space, so I got a second SSD..
> 
> So, I ghettorigged the liquid cooler to the Fujitsu siemens case with some steel wire..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you will see my amazing mounting solution.
> 
> 
> At this point I met a girl and started dating, so I had less money to spend on my computer..
> 
> Later I finally bought a Phanteks Enthoo Pro M Acrylic case. Pretty happy with it. I had to use the crappy, ugly PSU for now. But now I wouldn't be too embarrassed about my computer and I would dare to invite her to my place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally got a proper PSU. I chose the RM750i because of the monochrome look that would match the motherboard. I also got some nice cablemod cables and replaced the radiator fans to match the black and white color scheme.
> 
> 
> The next step would be to replace the GPU, but I REALLY wanted a GTX 1070, but I wouldn't have too much money left for the rest of the month.. So I bought some new accessories for a while. The GPU was powerful enough to run most of the games smoothly at medium settings, so it wasn't urgent to upgrade it. It ran Black Ops 3 and Portal 2 smoothly and we often played them in split screen. Good times..
> 
> At the end of 2016, she broke up with me.. I got really depressed and lost my interest in basically everything.. I wasn't interested in gaming or building my computer anymore. I think the only thing I got for a while was a new keyboard because my old one broke.
> 
> 6 months later I started to get my life back together, even though I still miss her. I started toplay games again and decided to save some money. A month later I finally bought the GTX 1070! I was lucky to get one for a good price, because the mining craze. Literally the next day I ordered the card, the price went up by 100€.
> 
> 
> I decided to add some RGB lightning too.


Girls suck







.

But seriously, the build looks very clean, and glad you got it together. It should last you for some time, too







.


----------



## Nutty Pumpkin

Some incredible builds in here guys!

I'm thinking of buying a Luxe for Threadripper but am very sold on the idea of positive pressure airflow. Plus I like hard drives.

Would someone be able to tell me if I would be able to mount bottom fans and have still have a HDD cage in the top position?


----------



## ciarlatano

NM - I missed a point.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nutty Pumpkin*
> 
> Some incredible builds in here guys!
> 
> I'm thinking of buying a Luxe for Threadripper but am very sold on the idea of positive pressure airflow. Plus I like hard drives.
> 
> Would someone be able to tell me if I would be able to mount bottom fans and have still have a HDD cage in the top position?


Short answer is yes you can.


----------



## Nutty Pumpkin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Short answer is yes you can.


Excellent thanks dude man.
Luxe/Primo coming my way very soon


----------



## smithydan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GuniGuGu*
> 
> Yeah, I've read the same thing... but surely the fans on the front of a case (not tied to the rad) make a difference if they are intake or exhaust...
> The default config on the Shift Evolv is one exhaust on the Front (top half). That is it. It seems strange to me.


Will have to probably wait on some more reviews and see to determine best layout. So far the two below are only ones with temps

Number one
Number two

On a side note, I did wish they had audio jacks on the i/o.


----------



## ride1226

ATTN P400S TG owners:

So, doyll here has pretty much convinced me to go air cooling on my rebuild of my pc into the aforementioned case. My case lands today but my measuring skills arent so great. I am an overclocker, and enjoy doing so. I also enjoy quiet, which my current PC does not come close to providing. I am looking for the absolute most cooling potential I can get into this case for my current i5 3570k which I would like to get back up into the 4.5ghz range, and in the next month or so will be doing the same to a 7600k or a 7700k. If it helps, my current mobo choice for my new processor is the Asus z270g Matx. Getting it from a local at a steal.

I absolutely love the looks of the Dark Rock Pro 3, as well as the Cryorig R1 Ultimate and R1 Universal. All of those showing specs of 168.3mm height. Case specs show 160mm of clearance which dooms those coolers. Is there anything comparable with that 8mm shaved off?!

I am also quite interested in the Cryorig H7 Quad Lumi. Seems like its a bit improved on the original H7 and well within the 160mm clearance of my case.

Thank you all!

BTW, if I end up a air cooling convert I will have a nice custom loop for sale hahaha.


----------



## NiKiZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pez*
> 
> Girls suck
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> But seriously, the build looks very clean, and glad you got it together. It should last you for some time, too
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


Thanks! I'm pretty happy with my system. It's just a bit noisy because of the AIO pump, which isn't even that bad, but it annoys me a bit.

I am thinking about upgrading to a custom loop later. The H110i pump humming annoys me. I am thinking about the EK-Waterblocks EK-KIT S360 kit. Quite a bit cheaper than buying the parts individually. (50€ difference for the exact same parts and I didn't include the fan splitter and the ATX bridge.) I'm just cooling the CPU first and I will add another radiator and a GPU block later.

Not really sure how I would configure the radiators, so that I would have positive pressure. 360 at the top might create negative pressure, especially if I would add a second radiator in the front. I don't want to remove the 140mm back exhaust fan, for aesthetic reasons.

At the front I might put a 240mm radiator, because it would fit there nicely without having to remove the plate at the bottom, creating a gap which shows a mess of cables... I can also fit a third 120mm fan under the radiator for more airflow.

I also consider adding a temperature sensor for the water, so I can controls the fans based on the coolant temp. Why spin the fan more when the CPU gets hotter? The radiators cool the water, not the CPU. It's just some unnecessary noise. The pump speed however will be controlled via the CPU temp.


----------



## -James-

Hello everybody, I've been following this thread for some time and now I'm happy to join the Phanteks club









My rig:

Enthoo Evolv ATX
7700k - NZXT Kraken X42
EVGA GTX 1080 SC - Kraken G12 - NZXT Kraken X42
Samsung SSD
16 GB Corsair Ram

Moved the CPU radiator from back to front, I think the dual AIO tubing flows better this way.

What do you guys think?


----------



## dainfamous

Top fan is recirculating heated air.


----------



## pez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NiKiZ*
> 
> Thanks! I'm pretty happy with my system. It's just a bit noisy because of the AIO pump, which isn't even that bad, but it annoys me a bit.
> 
> I am thinking about upgrading to a custom loop later. The H110i pump humming annoys me. I am thinking about the EK-Waterblocks EK-KIT S360 kit. Quite a bit cheaper than buying the parts individually. (50€ difference for the exact same parts and I didn't include the fan splitter and the ATX bridge.) I'm just cooling the CPU first and I will add another radiator and a GPU block later.
> 
> Not really sure how I would configure the radiators, so that I would have positive pressure. 360 at the top might create negative pressure, especially if I would add a second radiator in the front. I don't want to remove the 140mm back exhaust fan, for aesthetic reasons.
> 
> At the front I might put a 240mm radiator, because it would fit there nicely without having to remove the plate at the bottom, creating a gap which shows a mess of cables... I can also fit a third 120mm fan under the radiator for more airflow.
> 
> I also consider adding a temperature sensor for the water, so I can controls the fans based on the coolant temp. Why spin the fan more when the CPU gets hotter? The radiators cool the water, not the CPU. It's just some unnecessary noise. The pump speed however will be controlled via the CPU temp.


If that's one of the new EK pre-built kits (the ones replacing the Predator systems) keep in mind they're cheaper because the internals and cooling components are aluminum. You might actually be more satisfied going with air cooling...and honestly, it looks amazing in these cases. I don't have my Pro M anymore, but I absolutely loved looking at this thing everyday. I honestly miss this build on the daily and consider getting a Pro M (TG instead of acrylic this time) probably about once every two weeks...if not every week.


----------



## NiKiZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pez*
> 
> If that's one of the new EK pre-built kits (the ones replacing the Predator systems) keep in mind they're cheaper because the internals and cooling components are aluminum. You might actually be more satisfied going with air cooling...and honestly, it looks amazing in these cases. I don't have my Pro M anymore, but I absolutely loved looking at this thing everyday. I honestly miss this build on the daily and consider getting a Pro M (TG instead of acrylic this time) probably about once every two weeks...if not every week.


I mean these. https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-kit-s360

They are literally just off the shelf, copper parts packaged into a box.


----------



## xP_0nex

Any idea of when the Shift/Shift X going to hit the shelve?


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NiKiZ*
> 
> I mean these. https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-kit-s360
> 
> They are literally just off the shelf, copper parts packaged into a box.


Can you go into another of their kits? The SE rad is ridiculously bad. Laughably, cringe worthy type bad. Many 240mm rads have better heat dissipation than it does. Or do you have XSPC kits available in Finland? They tend to package up more sensible components in their kits than EK does.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xP_0nex*
> 
> Any idea of when the Shift/Shift X going to hit the shelve?


Latest I've heard is mid August, but I 'm guessing a couple weeks more than that.


----------



## NiKiZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Can you go into another of their kits? The SE rad is ridiculously bad. Laughably, cringe worthy type bad. Many 240mm rads have better heat dissipation than it does. Or do you have XSPC kits available in Finland? They tend to package up more sensible components in their kits than EK does.


Oh, okay.. I guess I could spend 50€ more and get the L360 kit.. It has the EK-CoolStream PE 360 radiator. I have some bills to pay when I get money so I don't want to spend too much.

We have some XSPC kits, but they are really expensive. Like 400€. The XSPC RayStorm 750 EX360 is the cheapest 360 kit an it is 230€. But it has barb fittings and a dual 5 1/4 bay reservoir, not what I'm looking for.

Oh well, I have 2 weeks to think about this stuff.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NiKiZ*
> 
> Oh, okay.. I guess I could spend 50€ more and get the L360 kit.. It has the EK-CoolStream PE 360 radiator. I have some bills to pay when I get money so I don't want to spend too much.
> 
> We have some XSPC kits, but they are really expensive. Like 400€. The XSPC RayStorm 750 EX360 is the cheapest 360 kit an it is 230€. But it has barb fittings and a dual 5 1/4 bay reservoir, not what I'm looking for.
> 
> Oh well, I have 2 weeks to think about this stuff.


The L360 will serve you far better.

XSPC pricing is so odd. European company with higher EU pricing and limited EU distribution. In the US they are less expensive than EK, and include better components relative to price.


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> The L360 will serve you far better.
> 
> XSPC pricing is so odd. European company with higher EU pricing and limited EU distribution. In the US they are less expensive than EK, and include better components relative to price.


The cheapest kits in Europe is actually the Alphacool ones. I used to think that was really surprising given the performance of their radiators, but considering the rest of their stuff... not so much any more.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> The cheapest kits in Europe is actually the Alphacool ones. I used to think that was really surprising given the performance of their radiators, but considering the rest of their stuff... not so much any more.


Alphacool rads are mediocre at best in today's market, and their blocks are awful. Given the quality, it should be the cheapest kits in EU.


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Alphacool rads are mediocre at best in today's market, and their blocks are awful. Given the quality, it should be the cheapest kits in EU.


Exactly, though at the point that I was actually looking at the kits they were the best performers, and their CPU blocks were marginally worse than the Supremacy (non evo). Seems like the price has stayed the same ever since. Still though I'd much rather have one of the Alphacool kits or the cheap in house kit at my local store than buy the new all aluminium kits by EKWB, but that's more because I won't even consider using aluminium in an open loop at this point (same reason I stay away from TT).


----------



## ride1226

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ITAngel*
> 
> Like this here? I have not blocked the side yet.


Does anyone know if this also works for cooling the drives in the p400s? Planning to do 2x 140mm be quiet silent wings 3 in the front and maybe one of their 80mm fans under them. Thanks!


----------



## paskowitz

This is question for @doyll regarding the Phanteks fan hub.

I am trying to set up some Darkside lighting kits for a client build. Ultimately I would like dimming but on/off control will do. Since most Darkside lighting kits go from D/S connect to 3-pin I was wondering if I could use the Phanteks fan hub to control the voltage for the lighting? The lighting adapter cables would convert to 3-pin, the 3-pins would go into the Phanteks hub, and then the 4-pin control from the hub would go into the motherboard PWM header. I would then control voltage from the motherboard. Would this scenario work as described?

Right now my plan was to use a Swiftech (true) PWM hub, but I have heard mixed signals if I would get voltage control of 3-pin headers through a 4-pin hub (to 4-pin mobo). Would this not work?

Let me know if you need more details or clarification. TY!









Some more details:
- 7 Alhpacool LED fittings
- 5 Darkside LED devices (2 strips, 3 3mm leds)
- Intend to use splitters for both categories to get the final plug count down so i can use 1 hub (devices are low power and I've got SATA from the hub, not straight PWM)


----------



## TahoeDust




----------



## Signaturisti

Hey

I'm sorry if this has been asked before, but how large radiators the *Enthoo Pro M* can fit?

I was thinking of using Alphacool XT45 360 (400x124x46mm) in front and then XT45 280 (334x144x45 mm) *or* XT45 360 X-Flow (*413*x124x46mm)
and could these be used with the top-mounting bracket and is push-pull possible?


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Signaturisti*
> 
> Hey
> 
> I'm sorry if this has been asked before, but how large radiators the *Enthoo Pro M* can fit?
> 
> I was thinking of using Alphacool XT45 360 (400x124x46mm) in front and then XT45 280 (334x144x45 mm) *or* XT45 360 X-Flow (*413*x124x46mm)
> and could these be used with the top-mounting bracket and is push-pull possible?


You can do a 360 and a 280, but not two 360. You can do push/pull on top with a 360, but a 280 may interfere with other components. You will also find that the case looks far more fluid with the 360 on top and 280 in the front.


----------



## TahoeDust

i7-7820x @ 4.8GHz 1.285v (Delidded)
Gigabyte x299 Aorus Gaming 7
EVGA 1080 ti FTW3
Corsair H115i Push/Pull w/ 4 x Noiseblocker NB-eLoop B14-PS
32GB g.Skill TridentZ RGB DDR4-3600 CL16
2 x Samsung 960 EVO 500GB in Raid 0
Samsung 850 EVO 1tb
EVGA Supernova G2 850w
Phantek Enthoo Evolv ATX Glass
3 x Phanteks PH-140XP PWM


----------



## MrAgapiGC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TahoeDust*
> 
> i7-7820x @ 4.8GHz 1.285v (Delidded)
> Gigabyte x299 Aorus Gaming 7
> EVGA 1080 ti FTW3
> Corsair H115i Push/Pull w/ 4 x Noiseblocker NB-eLoop B14-PS
> 32GB g.Skill TridentZ RGB DDR4-3600 CL16
> 2 x Samsung 960 EVO 500GB in Raid 0
> Samsung 850 EVO 1tb
> EVGA Supernova G2 850w
> Phantek Enthoo Evolv ATX Glass
> 3 x Phanteks PH-140XP PWM
> 
> how the x299 is doing. i was planning to get one next week but still thinking about it!


----------



## TahoeDust

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrAgapiGC*
> 
> how the x299 is doing. i was planning to get one next week but still thinking about it!


It is a monster. I am fully stable at 4.8GHz on all 8 cores. Don't believe all the sensationalized sky is falling youtube videos and the lemmings that are all so eager to repeat it.

Here it is after 2 hours in Realbench. 4.8GHz @ 1.285v, AVX/AVX512 offsets set to -5, mesh overclocked to 3.2GHz, bios power limits set to 450w, currency protection at it's highest setting. Hottest core hit 81c and VRM maxed out at 66c.



Here is a screenshot after 2hrs of Prime95 with AVX with the same settings. Hottest core hit 89c and VRM maxed out at 80c.



Here is what it can do at 5.0GHz...


----------



## mav451

Nice overclock! Now I'm actually curious if my trust in der8auer's statements should be questioned lol.


----------



## TahoeDust

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mav451*
> 
> Nice overclock! Now I'm actually curious if my trust in der8auer's statements should be questioned lol.


der8aur's results can be replicated, but you have to try awfully hard to do it. If I decrease the AVX offset a bit, I can turn this thing into a serious flame thrower. The AVX offset options in the bios are there for a reason. These things are not meant to be running AVX instructions at these kind of speeds...and there is really no reason to. AVX and AVX512 instruction sets running at ~4.3GHz is an incredible amount of computing power.


----------



## petmic10

Got my top cover from ModMyMods. Came out great.


----------



## Dimensive

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *petmic10*
> 
> Got my top cover from ModMyMods. Came out great.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Nice, how much did that end up costing you?


----------



## petmic10

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dimensive*
> 
> Nice, how much did that end up costing you?


Thanks.

It wasn't cheap, $79.99 plus shipping. They provided a new top cover though.

A really nice mod if you don't mind spending the money. Better cooling too. No way air is getting trapped up there anymore.


----------



## Dimensive

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *petmic10*
> 
> Thanks.
> 
> It wasn't cheap, $79.99 plus shipping. They provided a new top cover though.
> 
> A really nice mod if you don't mind spending the money. Better cooling too. No way air is getting trapped up there anymore.


Pretty steep price. I wish Phanteks would've listened to the people complaining about the airflow in the EVOLV line.


----------



## TahoeDust

Is the airflow REALLY that bad in the Evolv cases? I have only had mine running for a month or so, and it was a new build, but I have not had any cooling issue. It runs maybe 2c cooler with the side panel off.


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TahoeDust*
> 
> Is the airflow REALLY that bad in the Evolv cases? I have only had mine running for a month or so, and it was a new build, but I have not had any cooling issue. It runs maybe 2c cooler with the side panel off.


It's fine for air cooling but with a custom loop and all the resistance and air volume that entails... yeah. The top is the most egregious offender. The mesh on the sides is restrictive, the front vent is obstructed and the back is just there. Then you've got the rad bracket gaps. Add all that together and you get a mess. The front is ok, but not "best in class".

I'd say dropped about 6-8C (from 36-42c to 33-37c) (under load) water temps by modding my top and extending my front panels.


----------



## boredgunner

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> It's fine for air cooling but with a custom loop and all the resistance and air volume that entails... yeah. The top is the most egregious offender. The mesh on the sides is restrictive, the front vent is obstructed and the back is just there. Then you've got the rad bracket gaps. Add all that together and you get a mess. The front is ok, but not "best in class".
> 
> I'd say dropped about 6-8C (from 36-42c to 33-37c) (under load) water temps by modding my top and extending my front panels.


Yup, get the top panel modified if you plan on using water cooling. Or use a front mounted radiator. Or both.


----------



## guzzoline

Quick question!

I purchased an Enthoo Pro M Tempered Glass back in winter. The case been a big hit in my dorm, and a few of my roommates just ordered the same case for themselves! Two of them came in today and they have a nice foam type lining (similar to the Evolv cases) where the glass sits against the case. Mine does not have this! =(

Does anyone know if this might be an oversight for my case, or something they decided to start adding into the case later? I've never dealt with Phanteks support (yet to have issues with their products!), is this something they could supply?


----------



## smithydan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *guzzoline*
> 
> Quick question!
> 
> I purchased an Enthoo Pro M Tempered Glass back in winter. The case been a big hit in my dorm, and a few of my roommates just ordered the same case for themselves! Two of them came in today and they have a nice foam type lining (similar to the Evolv cases) where the glass sits against the case. Mine does not have this! =(
> 
> Does anyone know if this might be an oversight for my case, or something they decided to start adding into the case later? I've never dealt with Phanteks support (yet to have issues with their products!), is this something they could supply?


Yes maybe it is an oversight, contact them and they should assist you.
Not to sound silly but are you sure you have to TG version as the acrylic version doesn't have foam lining.


----------



## guzzoline

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smithydan*
> 
> Yes maybe it is an oversight, contact them and they should assist you.
> Not to sound silly but are you sure you have to TG version as the acrylic version doesn't have foam lining.


Yeap, def the tempered glass version. I sent them an e-mail, hope they come through! The glass doesn't sit tight/flush against the case when on, there's a slim gap @ the top that lets a bit of dust in over time. That bit of foam would do wonders for me!


----------



## petmic10

Has anyone else broken the handle on there front filter on the Evolv ATX case? I went to remove it yesterday and it snapped right off. lol


----------



## Cardant

Hey,

Just got an Enthoo Evolv ATX and I have some questions regarding regarding airflow and the fan hub.
Here is my current setup :



With this new build (sort of, I just changed the case and the GPU for a 1080 Ti) I decided to try myself at watercooling with a kit from EKWB (A240G).
As soon as EKWB releases some aluminum expansion kits, I'll add the CPU to the loop along with a 240mm rad on the top of the case.
How should I configure the 240mm radiator on top ? Intake or exhaust, push, pull or push/pull?
Is push intake a good idea? Is 4 ek vardar F3-120 push intake for a 140mm exhaust a viable option?
Or should I just go with the front radiator in push intake and the top one in push (or push pull) exhaust with a 120mm fan intake in the front and a 140mm fan exhaust in the back? Should I ditch the 140mm so I keep some positive air pressure in the case?

Also regarding the fan hub, I have it plugged into the CPU_FAN2 slot on my motherboard (MSI Z87-G45 Gaming) which is PWM, I currently have the pump/reservoir combo plugged in the white slot, the two front radiator fans in a splitter on a slot, the front 120mm fan in a slot, the two top fans in separate slots and the back fan in a slot.
Is it OK to have the pump/reservoir combo in the white slot or is it ******ed?
Also, all my fans are PWM but the fan hub is not, I mean there is only 3 pins on each slot so I'm not using my fans the best I can, right? Should I change the fan hub for something else?

Hope you guys have some answers for me, thanks in advance.


----------



## dainfamous

Dont you lose pcie lanes mounting the gpu at that spot?


----------



## epc1

Hello guys,

I have the Entoo Evolv atx and i am wondering if i would be able to fit
Eatx motherboards such as the upcoming rog zenith extreme.

The motherboard specs exceed the stated eatx in the phanteks manual by about 1.4cm

Would this be a problem? Has anyone here fitted motherboards such as the rampage v edition 10?
It is about the same size as the rog zenith extreme.

Thanks


----------



## Cardant

Nope, I don't loose PCI-E lanes.
If there is only one card, whatever the spot (PCI-E 2, PCI-E 5 or PCI-E 7 in this case) it will use x16 mode.


----------



## TahoeDust

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *petmic10*
> 
> Has anyone else broken the handle on there front filter on the Evolv ATX case? I went to remove it yesterday and it snapped right off. lol


No, but I did lift my machine in it's Evolv ATX TG case by the top metal piece the other day and stripped the screws out of it. Damn this machine got heavy.


----------



## Radox-0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cardant*
> 
> Nope, I don't loose PCI-E lanes.
> If there is only one card, whatever the spot (PCI-E 2, PCI-E 5 or PCI-E 7 in this case) it will use x16 mode.


Nice build

But I don't think that is correct you would not be running at x16. The slot if that is the MSI z87-GD45 (I think) and same would apply to most z97, 170, 270 etc is that second slot is usually only wired to x8 link's. Rarely do they wire any slot aside from the top most x16 slot with x16 link's on mainstream (few exceptions exist) as usually most people will use that for single card configs, and if they add a device in the second x16 slot, the CPU lanes would need to split either way.

Not that it makes a difference to performance really.


----------



## doyll

New member messaged me asking:
Quote:


> Ok. So I am going to purchase this case: http://www.phanteks.com/Enthoo-Luxe-TemperedGlass.html
> 
> My problem is a few fold. I want to optimize cooling, I believe that the provided case fans are phanteks' MP fans, which i believe are a form of static pressure fans. I want to add a fan on the bottom and am adding an h115i on the top with a possible third fan next to the radiator for exhaust. So heres my question. Do i swap out the two front 140mm fans for phanteks' SP static fans based on how blocked the front panel is? and for the bottom intake do I use an SP fan or AF fan? because it has a dust filter but is also lifted off the ground and i wasn't certain if a SP fan would be necessary for that. Finally for the back and top fan. Should I swap out the MP fans for AF fans or SP fans? The back fan is un-obstructed but i dont believe the top is. I may also leave out the top fan for positive pressure but am unsure of that as well. So in the end do should I have two 140 in front and 1 140 on bottom for intake with 2 140 radiator exhaust on top with a third fan next to it and 1 140 exhaust on the back. and what combination of SP and AF fans should I use given the restrictions/layout of this particular case?


The case fans provided in new cases for about a year now look like MP fans but they are not. Phanteks replaced the original PH-F140SP with these new fan about a year ago .. maybe even longer, but have not yet told us what they are or publicly announced the fan change. These new fans appear to have an impeller that looks like the MP fan impeller, but the fan motor is not the same.

You could contact Phanteks customer support and ask them what these case fan specificatons are.

I have not been able to get Phanteks to give me the full specifications of these now over a year old replacement case fans .. All I have been able to find out is what they told me below:
Quote:


> F140MP_BK (3Pin for case installation)
> 1200RPM +/- 250 rpm.
> 1.31 mmH2O
> 24.2 dBA.


But when I asked what their CFM was I was told
Quote:


> CFM will be the same as MP


Which it cannot be because the MP are 1600rpm, not 1200rpm.
I have tried repeatedly to find out more about these fans and/or get a couple to test but so far have got nowhere. Just this week I finally got an email (after not receiving any reply after asking on 18 March 2017 asking for specifications and fans to test and asking about once a month every sense) in part saying that the Evolv ATX I have has MP based fans
Quote:


> New 140 (MP based) chassis fans, found in the Evolv ATX sample


My Evolv ATX has PH-F140SP fans, so I have none to evaluate.

If they are in fact same as PH-F140HP_II and PH-F140MP fans running at lower speeds, the PH-F140HP_II tests as follows

http://www.coolingtechnique.com/recensioni/air-cooling/dissipatori/1581-recensione-phanteks-ph-tc12ls-e-ph-tc14s.html?start=5

Which shows 1.334mmH2O @ 1075rpm and 1.715mmH2O at 1222rpm and at maximum speed (1416rpm) it is 2.286mmH2O.

Below are Phanteks website specifications for PH-F140HP_II (and PH-F140MP)
Speed (RPM)
500-1600 ± 250 rpm
Max Airflow 68.1 CFM
Acoustical Noise 17-25.3 dB (A)
Static Pressure 1.62 mm H2O
As you can see Phanteks specifications are not even close to what http://www.coolingtechnique.com testing got. So who knows what these new (in cases for over a year) fans perform like. While most people who got cases with these new fans are OK with them, but I have seen several post up saying they do not like them as well as old SP fans.

Short answer is at a guess these new case fans will flow air just fine for you as front intakes. Possible problem is you cannot get any more of them for your case because Phanteks does not sell them except ass included in cases that case speciifcatons say have PH-F140SP fans, not these new (over a year old) fans.

I almost always use pressure fans for my case fans. Always if they are intake fans. I would try the 3 that came in case and hopefully they will do the job. You do not need any additional exhaust fans .. the H115 exhausting out the top will be fine and any extra intake airflow will move back and out of rear vents.

I would use 2x front and 1x bottom intakes speed controlled by CPU temp.

There is an easy way to make bottom filters a one piece filter that you can remove from front of case.
http://www.overclock.net/t/1418637/official-case-phanteks-case-club-for-lovers-owners/10220_20#post_24095206


----------



## ride1226

Thought I would share my refreshed build with everyone here. I dropped my custom water cooling loop in favor of maintenance free air cooling. That being said I sorta miss the old loop and the temps I got. Wish there was a bit more room in the p400s tg for something like a Cryorig R1 ultimate or equivalent. Here is my specs:

Asus z270g
i5 7600k @ 4.8ghz and 1.22volts stable (idle:38* / regular usage low 40's / gaming high 60's / prime95 small ffts mid to high 70s)
16gb corsair vengeance LED ram @ 2933mhz
EVGA GTX1080 FTW
Intel 520 cherryville ssd
2x WD Green 3tb drives
Cryorig h7 Quad Lumi

Currently just have the two stock fans in their stock areas but have 2x Phantek PH-F140MP that I plan to put behind the front panel. I am kinda torn on what to do with the 2x 120's. I have seen some run all intakes and then have massive positive pressure which sounds like a solid idea. I could remove all the PCIE covers and move the 2x 120mm stock fans to the top with the dust filters as intakes. Any input? Thanks all!


----------



## pez

If you're not delidded, you'd probably see the biggest temp drop from that. Two intakes and a rear exhaust should be enough for that case.


----------



## ride1226

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pez*
> 
> If you're not delidded, you'd probably see the biggest temp drop from that. Two intakes and a rear exhaust should be enough for that case.


Thanks for the tip. Delidding is definitely something I have watched some videos and done some reading on. I feel confident I can pull it off but at the same time super worried to screw it up.


----------



## sehop

Quote:


> I almost always use pressure fans for my case fans. @doyll


What fans would you recommend for intakes for this case while using an over clocked 7700k and over clocked 1080. I am going to replace the intake fans and have been looking at noctua's NF-P14s redux-1500. or phanteks' PH-F140SP_BK which has a higher cfm.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sehop*
> 
> What fans would you recommend for intakes for this case while using an over clocked 7700k and over clocked 1080. I am going to replace the intake fans and have been looking at noctua's NF-P14s redux-1500. or phanteks' PH-F140SP_BK which has a higher cfm.


The Phanteksbdeal with restriction far better than the Redux can. Much better choice for this application. The F140MP may be a better way to go than the SP.


----------



## pez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ride1226*
> 
> Thanks for the tip. Delidding is definitely something I have watched some videos and done some reading on. I feel confident I can pull it off but at the same time super worried to screw it up.


I did the razor method with my 4790K and it was tedious, but easy. It's nearly fool proof unless you get impatient.

However, the 'kits' they sell make everything so easy it would be worth it to invest the $30-40 into that (cost of a couple Phanteks fans







).


----------



## ride1226

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pez*
> 
> I did the razor method with my 4790K and it was tedious, but easy. It's nearly fool proof unless you get impatient.
> 
> However, the 'kits' they sell make everything so easy it would be worth it to invest the $30-40 into that (cost of a couple Phanteks fans
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ).


I was debating that razor method. Slow and careful. That being said I also have a 3d printer so was looking at some jigs. Just don't like the idea of possibly Bending the IHS.


----------



## Dimensive

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ride1226*
> 
> I was debating that razor method. Slow and careful. That being said I also have a 3d printer so was looking at some jigs. Just don't like the idea of possibly Bending the IHS.


If you live in the states: http://www.overclock.net/t/1627022/cross-country-rockit-delid-tool-extravaganza


----------



## ride1226

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dimensive*
> 
> If you live in the states: http://www.overclock.net/t/1627022/cross-country-rockit-delid-tool-extravaganza


How did you line it up again? Seems like lining it up without a jig would be tough.


----------



## Dasboogieman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ride1226*
> 
> I was debating that razor method. Slow and careful. That being said I also have a 3d printer so was looking at some jigs. Just don't like the idea of possibly Bending the IHS.


Holy crap no, the risk of bending the PCB is ten times less risky than the Razor method. Again, why the heck is the razor method even being touted as a viable method in this day and age where precision tools are plentiful and reliable?

Just get the delid tools, you are completely spoilt for choice. The risk of bending the PCB is pretty much non-existent unless you did it wrong...really really badly. Compared to a single microscopic nick of the razor which can destroy your whole unit.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sehop*
> 
> What fans would you recommend for intakes for this case while using an over clocked 7700k and over clocked 1080. I am going to replace the intake fans and have been looking at noctua's NF-P14s redux-1500. or phanteks' PH-F140SP_BK which has a higher cfm.


I think the fans the case comes with are good enough pressure rated. NF-P14s redux are not great .. 1.29mmH2O @ 1200rpm. The included fans in case are probably as good or better. I cannot say for sure because there are no specification released for them .. only what I've been told with no cfm rating given.

Phanteks has told me the new cases fans move more air at low speed than SP fans, but looking at the published ratings of SP versus ratings they gave me for new case fans I have to wonder. At 1200rpm the both have near identical static pressure ratings at 1200rpm but SP is rated 82.1cfm . The PH-F140MP is rated 68.1cfm at 1600rpm. Common sense would be that the PH-F140SP is better than PH-F140MP, but I have not tested them so cannot say this is a fact. My only experience is the cooler version of SP impeller on PH-F140HP and MP impeller on PH-F140HP_II on PH-TC14PE and I prefer the PH-F140PH_II. I think @ciarlatano has used both on radiators (more representative of case grill and filter restriction). Maybe he can give us a more detailed opinion.


----------



## Dimensive

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ride1226*
> 
> How did you line it up again? Seems like lining it up without a jig would be tough.


It has a relid kit:


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dimensive*
> 
> It has a relid kit:


I'm not sure I like that relid kit. The clap only applies pressure to center of IHS, This means the center could be lower than the sides creating a concave surface on IHS. This would mean the cooler or water block installed on it would contact the edges of IHS and not the center. We want metal to metal contact of IHS to cooler / waterblock the same as IHS to CPU chip because metal to metal contact transfers heat at 400 W/m K (copper) while TIM is 2 W/m K to 12 W/m K. If we end up wiht a concave IHS we will have the same problem with heat transfer from IHS to cooler / waterblock as we had before delidding between CPU chip and IHS.

Hope that all makes sense.


----------



## Dimensive

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> I'm not sure I like that relid kit. The clap only applies pressure to center of IHS, This means the center could be lower than the sides creating a concave surface on IHS. This would mean the cooler or water block installed on it would contact the edges of IHS and not the center. We want metal to metal contact of IHS to cooler / waterblock the same as IHS to CPU chip because metal to metal contact transfers heat at 400 W/m K (copper) while TIM is 2 W/m K to 12 W/m K. If we end up wiht a concave IHS we will have the same problem with heat transfer from IHS to cooler / waterblock as we had before delidding between CPU chip and IHS.
> 
> Hope that all makes sense.


Makes sense, but I don't think there's anything to be worried about with the IHS being concave. When relidding you're putting very little pressure on the IHS because the IHS is basically sitting on the die. If you look at this video 



, you can see the IHS is spinning on the die. This was an interesting read on delidding the 7700K and relidding with silicone and super glue: https://www.techpowerup.com/reviews/Intel/Delidding_the_Intel_Core_i7_7700K/ (though TPU seems to be down at the moment).


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> I'm not sure I like that relid kit. The clap only applies pressure to center of IHS, This means the center could be lower than the sides creating a concave surface on IHS. This would mean the cooler or water block installed on it would contact the edges of IHS and not the center. We want metal to metal contact of IHS to cooler / waterblock the same as IHS to CPU chip because metal to metal contact transfers heat at 400 W/m K (copper) while TIM is 2 W/m K to 12 W/m K. If we end up wiht a concave IHS we will have the same problem with heat transfer from IHS to cooler / waterblock as we had before delidding between CPU chip and IHS.
> 
> Hope that all makes sense.


It should only be tightened enough to hold it in place while drying. Used correctly, there will be no issues. But.....we can't count on people to use it correctly even with explicit instructions. Adding a plate to cover the IHS to the tool would apply even pressure and prevent the "must tighten with strength of silverback gorilla" mishaps.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dimensive*
> 
> Makes sense, but I don't think there's anything to be worried about with the IHS being concave. When relidding you're putting very little pressure on the IHS because the IHS is basically sitting on the die. If you look at this video
> 
> 
> 
> , you can see the IHS is spinning on the die. This was an interesting read on delidding the 7700K and relidding with silicone and super glue: https://www.techpowerup.com/reviews/Intel/Delidding_the_Intel_Core_i7_7700K/ (though TPU seems to be down at the moment).


I don't like the idea of using superglue. No way of removing iHS need ever arises again. Sure, it can be dissolved with acetone, but I'm not sure the PCB would not dissolve too.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> It should only be tightened enough to hold it in place while drying. Used correctly, there will be no issues. But.....we can't count on people to use it correctly even with explicit instructions. Adding a plate to cover the IHS to the tool would apply even pressure and prevent the "must tighten with strength of silverback gorilla" mishaps.


Exactly.








|A plate under the pressure screw that only contacts the edges of IHS would be even better.

And as I said above, I don't like the idea of using super glue to hold it down. Seems very little silicone caulk in each corner would be a better way to secure IHS.


----------



## Dimensive

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> I don't like the idea of using superglue. No way of removing iHS need ever arises again. Sure, it can be dissolved with acetone, but I'm not sure the PCB would not dissolve too.


I used Loctite Gel superglue and re-delidded it just fine, even put the PCB in an acetone bath to dissolve the superglue that was on there afterwards. No adverse affects.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dimensive*
> 
> I used Loctite Gel superglue and re-delidded it just fine, even put the PCB in an acetone bath to dissolve the superglue that was on there afterwards. No adverse affects.


That's good to know. I know acetone will damage some PCBs' .. like some motherboards.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> I don't like the idea of using superglue. No way of removing iHS need ever arises again. Sure, it can be dissolved with acetone, but I'm not sure the PCB would not dissolve too.
> Exactly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> |A plate under the pressure screw that only contacts the edges of IHS would be even better.
> 
> And as I said above, I don't like the idea of using super glue to hold it down. Seems very little silicone caulk in each corner would be a better way to secure IHS.


Agreed. Silicone would seem a far better solution. But, would it be ok with the heat? I'm not sure on that one.


----------



## ride1226

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dasboogieman*
> 
> Holy crap no, the risk of bending the PCB is ten times less risky than the Razor method. Again, why the heck is the razor method even being touted as a viable method in this day and age where precision tools are plentiful and reliable?
> 
> Just get the delid tools, you are completely spoilt for choice. The risk of bending the PCB is pretty much non-existent unless you did it wrong...really really badly. Compared to a single microscopic nick of the razor which can destroy your whole unit.


Yea last night I hit up a friend who has the same processor as me and we went halves on the Rockit 88 Delid kit, relid tool, and a stick of the Cool Laboratory liquid metal ultra. Should remove most of the possibility of screwing up. Looking forward to seeing the affects on my 4.8ghz and if it'll give me the headroom to bump back up to 5ghz or not on my little Cryorig H7 Quad Lumi. My buddy is doing a custom water loop, hard pipes and all, using my old pump and Koolance water block. Hoping to get him to 5ghz as well if his chip allows it.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Agreed. Silicone would seem a far better solution. But, would it be ok with the heat? I'm not sure on that one.


I won't say it will or not, but I do know it works for exhaust heaters on cars .. and they get very hot.


----------



## TahoeDust

Saw this posted on reddit. Not sure if you guys knew you could do this....I didn't.


__
https://www.reddit.com/r/6ru6yc/ordered_a_glass_panel_from_phanteks_to_replace/


----------



## pez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dasboogieman*
> 
> Holy crap no, the risk of bending the PCB is ten times less risky than the Razor method. Again, why the heck is the razor method even being touted as a viable method in this day and age where precision tools are plentiful and reliable?
> 
> Just get the delid tools, you are completely spoilt for choice. The risk of bending the PCB is pretty much non-existent unless you did it wrong...really really badly. Compared to a single microscopic nick of the razor which can destroy your whole unit.


Most people have razors like the ones needed already lying around as well as the super glue needed to reattach the IHS. You have to try extremely hard to mess up the razor method. It's also a fraction of the cost and so long as you don't have the worlds shakiest hands, you'll be alright







.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ride1226*
> 
> Yea last night I hit up a friend who has the same processor as me and we went halves on the Rockit 88 Delid kit, relid tool, and a stick of the Cool Laboratory liquid metal ultra. Should remove most of the possibility of screwing up. Looking forward to seeing the affects on my 4.8ghz and if it'll give me the headroom to bump back up to 5ghz or not on my little Cryorig H7 Quad Lumi. My buddy is doing a custom water loop, hard pipes and all, using my old pump and Koolance water block. Hoping to get him to 5ghz as well if his chip allows it.


Good choice







. I think you'll be very happy overall with the delid. And if you can always make your money back if you have friends that also require the 'service'







.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TahoeDust*
> 
> Saw this posted on reddit. Not sure if you guys knew you could do this....I didn't.
> 
> 
> __
> https://www.reddit.com/r/6ru6yc/ordered_a_glass_panel_from_phanteks_to_replace/%5B/URL
> Details in link @TahoeDust supplied.
> + rep.


----------



## pez

That's actually a bit more ideal than the new case with both sides being tempered glass, IMO. I never did understand the necessity of TG being on the back panel. Unfortunately, this mod would be better off for those that already own the case as the cost of panel + shipping is going to exceed that of the TG case to boot.


----------



## lanken123

Has anyone built a custom loop in the P400? Could you fit two 240 rads(on top and front)?. I have a i7-6700k and a GTX 1080, both overclocked and I doubt a single 240 would be enough.


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lanken123*
> 
> Has anyone built a custom loop in the P400? Could you fit two 240 rads(on top and front)?. I have a i7-6700k and a GTX 1080, both overclocked and I doubt a single 240 would be enough.


There is no radiator support at the top of the P400. Not enough clearance from the motherboard and the fan mounts are not offset toward the front.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pez*
> 
> That's actually a bit more ideal than the new case with both sides being tempered glass, IMO. I never did understand the necessity of TG being on the back panel. Unfortunately, this mod would be better off for those that already own the case as the cost of panel + shipping is going to exceed that of the TG case to boot.


I have the Evolv ATX TG and I agree that the back panel TG is just really lame without being covered with tint. If I decide to have someone apply tint on it, which type should I get and ehat do I tell the one who will apply it? I'm assuming car tints are applicable in this case? Should I cover the whole panel except for the SSD area?


----------



## pez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> I have the Evolv ATX TG and I agree that the back panel TG is just really lame without being covered with tint. If I decide to have someone apply tint on it, which type should I get and ehat do I tell the one who will apply it? I'm assuming car tints are applicable in this case? Should I cover the whole panel except for the SSD area?


I think you can actually source tint online to do it yourself. You would just have to do the cutting yourself.

However, most of the questions you'd probably have to answer based on your tastes (how dark, what kind of coverage).


----------



## TahoeDust

I would imagine we could call Phanteks and get aluminium back panels for our TG versions, like that poster on reddit got glass panels for his regular version.


----------



## smithydan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> I have the Evolv ATX TG and I agree that the back panel TG is just really lame without being covered with tint. If I decide to have someone apply tint on it, which type should I get and ehat do I tell the one who will apply it? I'm assuming car tints are applicable in this case? Should I cover the whole panel except for the SSD area?


Black vinyl will work just fine as well or even plastidip, which ever is cheaper to get.

But you can apply your tint yourself to something small and flat like this.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TahoeDust*
> 
> I would imagine we could call Phanteks and get aluminium back panels for our TG versions, like that poster on reddit got glass panels for his regular version.


Yeah but I'd expext applying tint is way cheaper.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smithydan*
> 
> Black vinyl will work just fine as well or even plastidip, which ever is cheaper to get.
> 
> But you can apply your tint yourself to something small and flat like this.


I see. Would the application be noob-friendly though?


----------



## pez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TahoeDust*
> 
> I would imagine we could call Phanteks and get aluminium back panels for our TG versions, like that poster on reddit got glass panels for his regular version.


I was under the impression that it doesn't have the holes or the the (hinges?) to mount the normal panel, but I could be wrong.


----------



## TopLvlObj

When I first got the Enthoo Evolv ATX TG case, I thought about tinting the back glass panel too.
But I ended up doing this instead.


And I guess I am one of the few people that light up the back of the case.


----------



## pez

That's definitely a good excuse to have the TG on the back, but as much as I love CM, I'm not sure I ever see myself going to that extreme







.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TopLvlObj*
> 
> When I first got the Enthoo Evolv ATX TG case, I thought about tinting the back glass panel too.
> But I ended up doing this instead.
> 
> 
> And I guess I am one of the few people that light up the back of the case.


that is probably the best looking cable management ive seen in awhile


----------



## petmic10

I just ordered a tempered glass door kit from Phanteks for my non tempered glass Evolv ATX.


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *petmic10*
> 
> I just ordered a tempered glass door kit from Phanteks for my non tempered glass Evolv ATX.


didn't know they were selling this.


----------



## petmic10

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PureBlackFire*
> 
> didn't know they were selling this.


Someone posted a link on reddit showing the kit. It was $29.99 plus shipping.

I needed a new front mesh filter too because I broke the handle on mine, so I ordered both from Phanteks.


__
https://www.reddit.com/r/6ru6yc/ordered_a_glass_panel_from_phanteks_to_replace/


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PureBlackFire*
> 
> didn't know they were selling this.


Even if there is no available parts in stores, you can always just contact Phanteks and buy replacement parts. I did that for the front and top of my Primo, and that wasn't really all that difficult to do.


----------



## redserv

Hello guys, I know that I am really late, can I join the phantek enthoo primo club? I did small mods to the case and just finished wc loop. See pic, comments are most welcome.


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *redserv*
> 
> Hello guys, I know that I am really late, can I join the phantek enthoo primo club? I did small mods to the case and just finished wc loop. See pic, comments are most welcome.


Nice job on that build









I just picked my own apart for some more extensive work as well (the case uses a surprisingly low amount of rivets), though I'm still not sure about how it will look when finished









Also, you can never be to late in to the club. Especially considering all Phanteks cases to date still holds up really well, and are all spectacular in their own right.


----------



## redserv

Hey hi rain, I really appreciate the feedback. This is my first hard tube build, I had to do a lot if work with the case, but I am pleased with the outcome, thanks again for the feedback my friend.


----------



## progfusion28

Hello Phanteks fans! I am the proud owner of a P400 Tempered Glass. It's a wonderfull case that i have upgraded with another pair of RGB led strips from Phanteks and now looks even more gorgeous. I would like to ask about CPU air cooler clearance. I mean actual clearance, as i have read that usually vendors give conservative numbers when it comes to CPU cooler's height. Vendor says 160mm and i would like to ask if the actual number is any bigger than that because i am thinking of putting the Enermax ETS-T50A-BVT which is exactly 160mm tall and i am afraid if it might hit the glass. Has anyone measured the actual CPU cooler clearance, or have actually fitted a 160mm tall cooler? Thanks in advance!

P400.11triplestrip.jpg 664k .jpg file


----------



## redserv

Awesome build man, I tried going for the same look with my enthoo primo.


----------



## progfusion28

Thanks!


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *redserv*
> 
> Hello guys, I know that I am really late, can I join the phantek enthoo primo club? I did small mods to the case and just finished wc loop. See pic, comments are most welcome.


Nice job!








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *progfusion28*
> 
> Hello Phanteks fans! I am the proud owner of a P400 Tempered Glass. It's a wonderfull case that i have upgraded with another pair of RGB led strips from Phanteks and now looks even more gorgeous. I would like to ask about CPU air cooler clearance. I mean actual clearance, as i have read that usually vendors give conservative numbers when it comes to CPU cooler's height. Vendor says 160mm and i would like to ask if the actual number is any bigger than that because i am thinking of putting the Enermax ETS-T50A-BVT which is exactly 160mm tall and i am afraid if it might hit the glass. Has anyone measured the actual CPU cooler clearance, or have actually fitted a 160mm tall cooler? Thanks in advance!
> 
> P400.11triplestrip.jpg 664k .jpg file


Good looking build.









The nice builds just keep rolling in.


----------



## pez

I'm actually not sure what cooler would be better for that build. I didn't realize a D15 or R1 didn't fit in that thing. Maybe doyll has a suggestion.


----------



## thekingbeyond

Will the tempered glass side panel fit the original luxe, I realise there may need to be a mod for the hinges and front thumb screws, has anyone done this?

Some very nice builds in this thread


----------



## ride1226

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *progfusion28*
> 
> Hello Phanteks fans! I am the proud owner of a P400 Tempered Glass. It's a wonderfull case that i have upgraded with another pair of RGB led strips from Phanteks and now looks even more gorgeous. I would like to ask about CPU air cooler clearance. I mean actual clearance, as i have read that usually vendors give conservative numbers when it comes to CPU cooler's height. Vendor says 160mm and i would like to ask if the actual number is any bigger than that because i am thinking of putting the Enermax ETS-T50A-BVT which is exactly 160mm tall and i am afraid if it might hit the glass. Has anyone measured the actual CPU cooler clearance, or have actually fitted a 160mm tall cooler? Thanks in advance!
> 
> P400.11triplestrip.jpg 664k .jpg file


I currently am running the new Cryorig H7 Quad Lumi. It comes in at 145mm tall and fits well in the case. The nice thing is this new Quad Lumi got an extra heat pipe in comparison to the old H7 so got a bit more cooling capacity from that. My 7600k runs quite warm, going to delid it this weekend, that being sad at 1.225 volts and 4.8ghz it idles between 38-41, I game in the mid 60s, and Prime95 is in the high 70s with occasional spikes to 84ish degrees but its average again is in the high 70s.

I originally was looking at the Cryorig R1 and R1 univeral. Also the BeQuiet Dark Rock Pro 3. WIthout any local stores offering them I didnt want to chance them hitting the glass so went with the smaller cooler.


----------



## FIDDY57

I am still working on my upgrade from a corsair 760t black to the enthoo primo case. Thought a ekwb res would fit vertically but the evga 1080ti's are to long so drilled some holes and mounted it horizontally. Then was concerned with air bubbles getting trapped so got a 2nd res from ekwb a 5 1/4 bay slot one that i can use to fill the loop. Still working on getting all the connections done between the bottom 360x86mm monsta res and the the front 240x46mm res. Very tight quarters between the two. Still trying to decide best options for loop path. But will use both res's. Also have a 480x30mm res on top. 17 total fans. Work in progress


----------



## FIDDY57

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ride1226*
> 
> I currently am running the new Cryorig H7 Quad Lumi. It comes in at 145mm tall and fits well in the case. The nice thing is this new Quad Lumi got an extra heat pipe in comparison to the old H7 so got a bit more cooling capacity from that. My 7600k runs quite warm, going to delid it this weekend, that being sad at 1.225 volts and 4.8ghz it idles between 38-41, I game in the mid 60s, and Prime95 is in the high 70s with occasional spikes to 84ish degrees but its average again is in the high 70s.
> 
> I originally was looking at the Cryorig R1 and R1 univeral. Also the BeQuiet Dark Rock Pro 3. WIthout any local stores offering them I didnt want to chance them hitting the glass so went with the smaller cooler.


Why didnt you just go with a small aio for the cpu. Looks like you have enough room on top or in the front??


----------



## ride1226

Top doesnt fit radiators, itd hit motherboard. Front means the case draws warm air in through the radiator to then fill the case. Also, AIO pumps are noisy, and most AIOs hit about the same temp as this air cooler with the expense of extra noise. Heck, some of the bigger air coolers straight up outperform most AIOs especially the Corsair line which is most popular. That being said, I had a full custom loop in my last build. For the 500$ in parts it was, this air cooler is only a little bit warmer, for 65$.

TLDR: Either do a full custom loop in a case that supports the proper air flow and radiator capacity for your components, or go air.


----------



## C1v1cC0n

EDIT: Woops, double post


----------



## kush621

I too just ordered a TG panel to replace my aluminum one on my Evolv ATX. sweet.


----------



## petmic10

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kush621*
> 
> I too just ordered a TG panel to replace my aluminum one on my Evolv ATX. sweet.


Nice!

Can't wait until mine shows up.


----------



## C1v1cC0n

Greetings fellow Phantek "phans"







and fellow owners. After months of work, prepping, painting, and waiting, my Asus Republic of Gamers themed and airflow modified case project based on the my very first Phantek case, the Evolv ATX "NightFire" is finally done at last!

As no doubt many of you are aware, the tradeoff Phantek made with the Evolv chassis and its sleek look is the rather restrictive front panel for front air intake for interior cooling, especially for water coolers. Small modifications such as putting spacers on the panels bracket that I saw other people suggest while lurking through this huge thread months ago, did help somewhat, but I wasn't satisfied seeing my temps on both my GPU CPU only go down by around 1-2c with front panel spacing increase, vs they would drop 7-8c when I removed the front panel entirely, not to mention the fans would also spin slower as the airflow restriction was greatly decreased with no front panel. So both noise and temps suffered.

My plan was to really open up the front panel using the stock panel itself but I had no tools with the ability to cut the 3mm thick aluminum without ruining the metal or the paint job. After a few months of weighing my options, and again, thanks to this thread, I found out and contacted the Australian PC company https://www.singularitycomputers.com/ and after email discussion of what I wanted done, lots of measurements and protective packaging, I sent it to Australia.

Meanwhile, I began working on the case itself to start going with my Asus ROG color themed idea as I'm a big fan of Asus' products over the past decade as they all have worked very well for me, especially their ROG motherboards, so I based the cases look and feel from the ROG colors and themes.

Due to painting mishaps, it took over 3 months for me to finally get the front intake panel back and sent back to the states, but after doing the final painting of the remaining parts and final assembly, the wait was well worth it.

Oh yeah, and my temps are now awesome, even on my overclocked 1080Ti and 4790k


----------



## petmic10

^
Wow! That is a phenomenal build. I wouldn't even use it. I would just stare at it all day. lol


----------



## kush621

I like the red thumbscrews. I may take a some inspiration from your build and get some purple ones to attache the TG side panel when it arrives.


----------



## FIDDY57

Looks awesome!!!


----------



## AlphaC

Phanteks Halos announced at $9.99 for 120mm size...
https://www.techpowerup.com/235949/phanteks-announces-halos-series-rgb-fan-frames


Enthoo Pro RGB also ("The included Halos RGB fan complements any system build with ambient illumination and style.") , with RGB power button

https://www.techpowerup.com/235919/phanteks-announces-enthoo-pro-m-special-edition

edit:

http://www.phanteks.com/Enthoo-Pro-M-SpecialEdition.html

http://www.phanteks.com/HalosLux.html ---- aluminum frame

http://www.phanteks.com/Halos.html ---- plastic frame


----------



## OrangeRaptor

I really like the new Pro M SE. Might get one of those for my next build instead of a luxe


----------



## pez

They're making it harder and harder to stay away from the Enthoo Pro M for me







.


----------



## OrangeRaptor

It looks so good. I really didn't think they would be able to make the pro m look any better.


----------



## doyll

Very nicely done @C1v1cC0n !








Love the attention to detail with colors on component parts.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AlphaC*
> 
> Phanteks Halos announced at $9.99 for 120mm size...
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> https://www.techpowerup.com/235949/phanteks-announces-halos-series-rgb-fan-frames
> 
> 
> Enthoo Pro RGB also ("The included Halos RGB fan complements any system build with ambient illumination and style.") , with RGB power button
> 
> https://www.techpowerup.com/235919/phanteks-announces-enthoo-pro-m-special-edition
> 
> edit:
> 
> http://www.phanteks.com/Enthoo-Pro-M-SpecialEdition.html
> 
> http://www.phanteks.com/HalosLux.html ---- aluminum frame
> 
> http://www.phanteks.com/Halos.html ---- plastic frame


Thanks for posting this.








I usually get these notices from Phanteks, but for some reason I didn't get this one.

I like the Halo frames. Great way to add RGB lighting without having to buy fans and also functions as a 6mm spacer which will lower fan noise.


Enthoo Pro M SE looks like a great case!
Tempered Glass side to show off it's clean white interior, Halo fan frames and brushed aluminum look exterior finish should make it a winner.


----------



## thekingbeyond

@doyll do you know if the tempered glass luxe side panel will fit the original luxe, I realise there may need to be a mod for the hinges and front thumb screws, has anyone done this that you know of?


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thekingbeyond*
> 
> @doyll do you know if the tempered glass luxe side panel will fit the original luxe, I realise there may need to be a mod for the hinges and front thumb screws, has anyone done this that you know of?


At this time the only ones that are interchangeablewith the non-TG and TG panels are the P400, P400S, and Evolv ATX.

The Enthoo Luxe and Pro tempered glass panels are recessed so the top, front, and bottom chassis panels.

The Enthoo Luxe chassis panels are different on the Luxe TG to accept the window.

At least that is what I've been told. Obviously I don't have one of every case made.


----------



## leops1984

I have a question. For cooling purposes (air or water), am I correct in thinking that the Enthoo Pro M is almost entirely better all around than the Enthoo Evolv? The front panel isn't as constrained as the Evolv, and neither does it have the wonky top vent situation either. It seems that if I'm fine with the looks of the Pro M it's a better case all around. Am I missing something?


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *leops1984*
> 
> I have a question. For cooling purposes (air or water), am I correct in thinking that the Enthoo Pro M is almost entirely better all around than the Enthoo Evolv? The front panel isn't as constrained as the Evolv, and neither does it have the wonky top vent situation either. It seems that if I'm fine with the looks of the Pro M it's a better case all around. Am I missing something?


----------



## PureBlackFire

didn't they show some Halos frames with addressable LEDs?


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*


Amazing what a brushed finish and white interior do.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *leops1984*
> 
> I have a question. For cooling purposes (air or water), am I correct in thinking that the Enthoo Pro M is almost entirely better all around than the Enthoo Evolv? The front panel isn't as constrained as the Evolv, and neither does it have the wonky top vent situation either. It seems that if I'm fine with the looks of the Pro M it's a better case all around. Am I missing something?


Front panel of Evolv ATX is not restrictive, but the top is.
Enthoo Luxe, Pro and Pro M all flow air better than Evolv cases. Luxe and Pro have bottom vents, Pro does not.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PureBlackFire*
> 
> didn't they show some Halos frames with addressable LEDs?


Isn't that what was just announced as being available next month?


----------



## C1v1cC0n

In case some people are curious, that is a custom made 3D printed cover a student worker made for the fan hub, so no, you can't buy it


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *C1v1cC0n*
> 
> In case some people are curious, that is a custom made 3D printed cover a student worker made for the fan hub, so no, you can't buy it


I just assumed you bought one with a cover and painted it white to match. Good job!


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Isn't that what was just announced as being available next month?


is it?


----------



## thekingbeyond

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> At this time the only ones that are interchangeablewith the non-TG and TG panels are the P400, P400S, and Evolv ATX.
> 
> The Enthoo Luxe and Pro tempered glass panels are recessed so the top, front, and bottom chassis panels.
> 
> The Enthoo Luxe chassis panels are different on the Luxe TG to accept the window.
> 
> At least that is what I've been told. Obviously I don't have one of every case made.


Thanks for the reply , helpful as usual:thumb:


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PureBlackFire*
> 
> is it?


Well they have 18 LEDs in 120mm frame and 21 LEDs in 140mm frame and I assumed they were each RGB was addressable, but not you got me wondering. I'll find out and post it up.


----------



## OrangeRaptor

are the Halos frames linkable? Like can i link them together from fan to fan without having to run a cable for each frame?


----------



## BulletSponge

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *C1v1cC0n*


Damn that looks nice, I'm going to have to call some local machine shops to see if they can do something like this for me. Being oilfield country I oughta be able to find someone local who is up to the challenge.


----------



## leops1984

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Front panel of Evolv ATX is not restrictive, but the top is.
> Enthoo Luxe, Pro and Pro M all flow air better than Evolv cases. Luxe and Pro have bottom vents, Pro does not.


Huh. I was under the impression from all the mods of the Evolv's front that it was considered restrictive as well. Thank you for the informative reply.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *leops1984*
> 
> Huh. I was under the impression from all the mods of the Evolv's front that it was considered restrictive as well. Thank you for the informative reply.


Looks can be deceiving.








The front venting has no grill, so it is all free airflow vent area. Normal perforated metal front, top and side grills only have about 50-60% of their area open for airflow .. and because of the turbulence they create their flow is even less when compared to an open area like is all the way around the Evolv front cover.







Here is a link that might be of interest showing test results of different grills, vents and filters.
http://www.overclock.net/t/1491876/ways-to-better-cooling-airflow-cooler-fan-data/0_20#post_22657923


----------



## leops1984

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Looks can be deceiving.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The front venting has no grill, so it is all free airflow vent area. Normal perforated metal front, top and side grills only have about 50-60% of their area open for airflow .. and because of the turbulence they create their flow is even less when compared to an open area like is all the way around the Evolv front cover.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a link that might be of interest showing test results of different grills, vents and filters.
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1491876/ways-to-better-cooling-airflow-cooler-fan-data/0_20#post_22657923


Okay, now I'm confused. Please correct me if I got this wrong - so the Evolv, despite appearances, has a less restrictive front panel because the open areas on the front panel of the Pro M are heavily grilled and are close together. This means that the Evolv has the less restrictive front panel - which would make sense, I guess, since the Evolv is the pricier case.

But in the earlier post (and your original reply to me), you also said that the Pro M flows air better than the Evolv. Is that all due to the restricted top panel of the Evolv? My impression is that for best air performance of the Evolv, the preferred configuration is stock (3 front, one rear exhaust, don't bother with the top exhaust and/or seal it)?


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *leops1984*
> 
> Okay, now I'm confused. Please correct me if I got this wrong - so the Evolv, despite appearances, has a less restrictive front panel because the open areas on the front panel of the Pro M are heavily grilled and are close together. This means that the Evolv has the less restrictive front panel - which would make sense, I guess, since the Evolv is the pricier case.
> 
> But in the earlier post (and your original reply to me), you also said that the Pro M flows air better than the Evolv. Is that all due to the restricted top panel of the Evolv? My impression is that for best air performance of the Evolv, the preferred configuration is stock (3 front, one rear exhaust, don't bother with the top exhaust and/or seal it)?


Kind of.
Price has nothing to do with it.
I'm not saying Evolv flows more air. I'm only saying it flows more air then most people think because it's venting area is unrestricted.

The Pro M flows more because it has more vents. Not only does the front have a big vent but the top is also has a big vent.

I use 2x 140mm front intakes in my Evolv ATX. 2x 140mm fans flow as much air as 3x 120mm fans of same design.


----------



## leops1984

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> I'm not saying Evolv flows more air. I'm only saying it flows more air then most people think because it's venting area is unrestricted.
> 
> The Pro M flows more because it has more vents. Not only does the front have a big vent but the top is also has a big vent.
> 
> I use 2x 140mm front intakes in my Evolv ATX. 2x 140mm fans flow as much air as 3x 120mm fans of same design.


Ah, that's clearer. Thanks! If I do go with a Phanteks in my build (I haven't finalized everything yet), I think I will stick with a Pro M.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *leops1984*
> 
> Ah, that's clearer. Thanks! If I do go with a Phanteks in my build (I haven't finalized everything yet), I think I will stick with a Pro M.


I don't have a Pro M but do have a Luxe. Luxe and Pro (not Pro M) are made on same frame with different front and top panels. Pro M has a different frame.
Pro M has bigger front vent, but Luxe / Pro have bottom vent Pro M does not have.
Enthoo Pro and Luxe can have PSU and other bottom vent filters attached to each other so both come out the front as one filter. Saves having to move case out to remove and clear PSU filter.


----------



## C1v1cC0n

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Looks can be deceiving.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The front venting has no grill, so it is all free airflow vent area. Normal perforated metal front, top and side grills only have about 50-60% of their area open for airflow .. and because of the turbulence they create their flow is even less when compared to an open area like is all the way around the Evolv front cover.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a link that might be of interest showing test results of different grills, vents and filters.
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1491876/ways-to-better-cooling-airflow-cooler-fan-data/0_20#post_22657923


You cannot argue however doll that there is a definitive airflow difference between the stock front panel on and then it removed and I've seen and tested it numerous times and the resulting temp differences justified my spending of the money to get my front panel modified so I can have much better intake airflow.

This was far more important to me as an air cooler as I don't water cool but i'm sure you've seen the Phantek Evolv watercooling thread and the amount of people who are getting the front panel modified to allow better airflow for radiators in the front vs top which does indeed suck

http://www.overclock.net/t/1598825/phanteks-enthoo-evolv-atx/1290


----------



## leops1984

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> I don't have a Pro M but do have a Luxe. Luxe and Pro (not Pro M) are made on same frame with different front and top panels. Pro M has a different frame.
> Pro M has bigger front vent, but Luxe / Pro have bottom vent Pro M does not have.
> Enthoo Pro and Luxe can have PSU and other bottom vent filters attached to each other so both come out the front as one filter. Saves having to move case out to remove and clear PSU filter.


I thought about the Pro and Luxe but for my needs they're too much. I'm looking at midtower cases, and the Pro M is definitely on my shortlist.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *C1v1cC0n*
> 
> You cannot argue however doll that there is a definitive airflow difference between the stock front panel on and then it removed and I've seen and tested it numerous times and the resulting temp differences justified my spending of the money to get my front panel modified so I can have much better intake airflow.
> 
> This was far more important to me as an air cooler as I don't water cool but i'm sure you've seen the Phantek Evolv watercooling thread and the amount of people who are getting the front panel modified to allow better airflow for radiators in the front vs top which does indeed suck
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1598825/phanteks-enthoo-evolv-atx/1290


I can point out to you C-1 how many Evolv air cooling users (including myself) who have no problem cooling high powered CPU and GPU with the stock front.

Several people (including myself) have ran stress tests with stock front cover on and off numerous times. The difference we found was only 2-4cwamer when stress testing with over on. For the average user 2-4c is not a big deal.

That is far more important to me than modifying the stock front.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *leops1984*
> 
> I thought about the Pro and Luxe but for my needs they're too much. I'm looking at midtower cases, and the Pro M is definitely on my shortlist.


Pro M is a little smaller case. I was not suggesting not getting the Pro M. I just wanted you to know about both cases.


----------



## Majix007

My new build. What do ya think?
I'm not the best at takin pics.
It's red, not pink.

Windows 10 Pro 64Bit (Version 1607)
Phanteks Enthoo Evolv ATX
X99S SLI PLUS (MS-7885) (Socket LGA 2011-V3)
Intel Core i7 5930K @ 3.50GHz & 3.50GHz
Deepcool Captain 360 EX Liquid Cooler
16Gbs Mushkin Blackline Frostbyte
MSI Radeon HD7770
XFX Radeon HD7770
KINGSTON SV300S37A240G - 240Gb SSD (C)
Western Digital ST3000DM001 - 3Tb
Seagate BarraCuda Green - 1.5Tb
Seagate BarraCuda - 1Tb
EVGA SuperNOVA 750 B2 Power Supply
Logitech Z906 Surround Speakers
APC BN650M1 UPS - Battery Backup System
2 x Dell S2216M 22" Monitor
1 x ASUS PA248Q 24" Monitor
1 x Panasonic TC-L60DT60 65" TV


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majix007*
> 
> My new build. What do ya think?
> I'm not the best at takin pics.
> It's red, not pink.
> 
> Windows 10 Pro 64Bit (Version 1607)
> Phanteks Enthoo Evolv ATX
> X99S SLI PLUS (MS-7885) (Socket LGA 2011-V3)
> Intel Core i7 5930K @ 3.50GHz & 3.50GHz
> Deepcool Captain 360 EX Liquid Cooler
> 16Gbs Mushkin Blackline Frostbyte
> MSI Radeon HD7770
> XFX Radeon HD7770
> KINGSTON SV300S37A240G - 240Gb SSD (C)
> Western Digital ST3000DM001 - 3Tb
> Seagate BarraCuda Green - 1.5Tb
> Seagate BarraCuda - 1Tb
> EVGA SuperNOVA 750 B2 Power Supply
> Logitech Z906 Surround Speakers
> APC BN650M1 UPS - Battery Backup System
> 2 x Dell S2216M 22" Monitor
> 1 x ASUS PA248Q 24" Monitor
> 1 x Panasonic TC-L60DT60 65" TV


Well what can i say, its very red









Nice build though


----------



## OrangeRaptor

that is a hell of a lot of red. looks nice though.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> I can point out to you C-1 how many Evolv air cooling users (including myself) who have no problem cooling high powered CPU and GPU with the stock front.
> 
> Several people (including myself) have ran stress tests with stock front cover on and off numerous times. The difference we found was only 2-4cwamer when stress testing with over on. For the average user 2-4c is not a big deal.
> 
> That is far more important to me than modifying the stock front.


Front panel on or off was only a 2-3 degree difference with several coolers when I tested. I got almost identical results to having the front off by spacing out the front to be flush with the sides, using screws in the included toolbox and rubber washers. So, I went with spacing it out for under $1 and keeping the look clean.

That said, now that there is liquid cooling in the case, with a 360mm on top, I may vent the top.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Front panel on or off was only a 2-3 degree difference with several coolers when I tested. I got almost identical results to having the front off by spacing out the front to be flush with the sides, using screws in the included toolbox and rubber washers. So, I went with spacing it out for under $1 and keeping the look clean.
> 
> That said, now that there is liquid cooling in the case, with a 360mm on top, I may vent the top.


Indeed! With a 360 radiator up top you will definitely find a vented top beneficial.








I assume you removed the plastic grills at front and back of case top as well as the grills on top vents and set top on top of latches to get enough airflow?


----------



## Majix007

Thanks!!
It looks better in person.....the pics don't do it justice at all.


----------



## petmic10

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majix007*
> 
> Thanks!!
> It looks better in person.....the pics don't do it justice at all.


It looks amazing in pictures too. It looks like you put a lot of work into that build.

Good job.


----------



## Majix007

Thanks!!
I did.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Indeed! With a 360 radiator up top you will definitely find a vented top beneficial.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I assume you removed the plastic grills at front and back of case top as well as the grills on top vents and set top on top of latches to get enough airflow?


LOL.....forget who you are talking to?


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> LOL.....forget who you are talking to?


Not at all. Just can't remember exactly what you did do.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Not at all. Just can't remember exactly what you did do.


Top is latched on. Hated the look wth it raised. Difference in temps wasn't huge when I did that, regardless. Since I actually designed the loop around the case, and went with a rad that works well with low rpm, the flow issue isn't that bad for me. My rad fans never see over 1050 rpm, or need to. You know I am all about putting together components that work together rather than trying to stuff in as many random components as possible with no regard to how they work as a whole.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Top is latched on. Hated the look wth it raised. Difference in temps wasn't huge when I did that, regardless. Since I actually designed the loop around the case, and went with a rad that works well with low rpm, the flow issue isn't that bad for me. My rad fans never see over 1050 rpm, or need to. You know I am all about putting together components that work together rather than trying to stuff in ass many random components as possible with no regard to how they work as a whole.


Now I remember. Thanks!
I'm thinking of using my be quiet! Silent Loop 280 in my Evolv.


----------



## juzz

Hi all,

My order will finally be arriving in the next couple of days and was just looking at how I plan to cool this beautiful case.

7700k
1080ti Aorus
x62 Kraken

Just wanting to get some advice on how I should place everything in here. I wanted a positive flow but I'm finding it difficult to achieve. Was going to front mount the rad but if I have the other 3 fans (2 top, 1 rear) as exhaust, it will be negative.

Would getting a filter for the rear and making that an intake be at all viable?

Open to all suggestions, including mounting the rad up the top if that is a better option.

Thanks for any help you can provide!


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *juzz*
> 
> Hi all,
> 
> My order will finally be arriving in the next couple of days and was just looking at how I plan to cool this beautiful case.
> 
> 7700k
> 1080ti Aorus
> x62 Kraken
> 
> Just wanting to get some advice on how I should place everything in here. I wanted a positive flow but I'm finding it difficult to achieve. Was going to front mount the rad but if I have the other 3 fans (2 top, 1 rear) as exhaust, it will be negative.
> 
> Would getting a filter for the rear and making that an intake be at all viable?
> 
> Open to all suggestions, including mounting the rad up the top if that is a better option.
> 
> Thanks for any help you can provide!


Which case?


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Which case?


You don't miss a thing.


----------



## juzz

So sorry, completely forgot it wasn't specifically an enthoo evolv atx thread. Blame the very late posting time...

Thanks in advance!


----------



## FIDDY57

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *juzz*
> 
> So sorry, completely forgot it wasn't specifically an enthoo evolv atx thread. Blame the very late posting time...
> 
> Thanks in advance!


NP thread for all phanteks.
Im working on a primo case. Older case and finding it fun to say the least in putting in a custom loop lol


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FIDDY57*
> 
> NP thread for all phanteks.
> Im working on a primo case. Older case and finding it fun to say the least in putting in a custom loop lol


proper planning is key...otherwise you end up redoing things...i installed motherboard then realized 420 up top has to go in first looks like it will fit but no...


----------



## FIDDY57

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> proper planning is key...otherwise you end up redoing things...i installed motherboard then realized 420 up top has to go in first looks like it will fit but no...


I used ekwb configurator for the rads res/pump and and even told it what gpus were in it but the res wouldnt fit vertically. And insane tight space between the front and bottom rad's for plumming lol


----------



## nycgtr

Bringing the primo back and retiring the Evolv


----------



## juzz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Which case?


Sorry, I posted an update just after that. Completely slipped my mind it wasn't an enthoo evolv atx thread. Would you have any suggestions based on my original post?

All opinions welcome! It's arrived today so will getting underway on the weekend.


----------



## ErrantPigeon

Interesting - Overclockers UK has just opened preorders for an tempered glass version of the Evolv ITX.

Unlike the mATX with its tweaks to the front panel, this seems to be pretty much the same case with no major changes, even the other panel remains non-glass. A shame they didn't use the opportunity to introduce an aluminium version of the case... but I guess the Shift and Shift X are going to fill that niche for the moment (premium aluminium ITX case).


----------



## Modus

Upgraded from a 650D. amazing build quality for a $100 case.

ignore the dirty desk.


----------



## Dimensive

https://www.techpowerup.com/236188/phanteks-announces-enthoo-evolv-itx-tempered-glass-edition



That's nice and all, but how many people are going to complain about the top being restrictive before they actually listen and do something about it?


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dimensive*
> 
> https://www.techpowerup.com/236188/phanteks-announces-enthoo-evolv-itx-tempered-glass-edition
> 
> 
> 
> That's nice and all, but how many people are going to complain about the top being restrictive before they actually listen and do something about it?


I think the problem is that the design to manufacturing process takes months... if not years. This design was probably sign off on last year when chatter about the restrictive top was less frequent.

Considering that ModMyMods ordered panels directly from Phanteks for the sole purpose of cutting them up to improve airflow, I cannot imagine Phanteks presently not being aware of the issue.

With that said, I would like to see some manifestation of this awareness in their communications and social media postings. @Phanteks Rep

IMO Phanteks has 3 BIG things to tackle in their next cases.

Better top panel ventilation (more surface area, less restrictive mesh or no mesh, less obstructions)
More flexible top radiator mounting (



 and Phanteks Elite). The slide out tray has to go.
Larger chassis frame. IMO the Enthoo ATX chassis needs to grow for better water cooling and EATX support. ~1.5 inches higher, 1 inch longer. Dual 360x30mm rad support with no compromises or squeezing should be the target.
Vertical GPU mount for mATX and ATX would be nice as well.


----------



## pez

I'm actually excited for that, but it means that we probably won't see it for purchase until Q1 or Q2 of next year. Hell, we're still waiting on the Shift and ShiftX.

The ITX version is probably more suited for air cooling, but as long as you put 2 x 140s in the front of the case, the airflow is great in the case. Like it's been discussed, the airflow in these cases aren't terrible, but they're not the best. Most of the time when you're having temp issues, it's a failure to be attentive to the setup whether it be fans, radiator type, etc.


----------



## dainfamous

Hopefully they sell an upgrade kit to existing evolv itx owners.


----------



## ErrantPigeon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> I think the problem is that the design to manufacturing process takes months... if not years. This design was probably sign off on last year when chatter about the restrictive top was less frequent.
> 
> Considering that ModMyMods ordered panels directly from Phanteks for the sole purpose of cutting them up to improve airflow, I cannot imagine Phanteks presently not being aware of the issue.


A big issue is the aesthetic as well, I think. The Evolv line has been quite successful, just judging by the amount of YouTubers using it at least for a bit. Meaning whatever refresh/redesign they do, it has to keep the look and feel - and I think the solid aluminium top and front is a big part of it.

I always though they could utilise the back end of the roof better, it's already a sizeable vent. If you avoid back-flow through the roof, it would just be pushed out at the back. Adding the option for a bottom intake would also add flexibility and compensate for the somewhat restrictive front - the Evolv already has good feet that separate it from the floor quite well.


----------



## smithydan

Still wish the itx version was aluminium.


----------



## petmic10

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *petmic10*
> 
> I just ordered a tempered glass door kit from Phanteks for my non tempered glass Evolv ATX.


Okay guys, my tempered glass door came in from Phanteks but this is what it looked like. UPS did a number on it. I called and sent Phanteks pictures to get a replacement sent. That California to New Jersey trip is a rough one.


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *petmic10*
> 
> Okay guys, my tempered glass door came in from Phanteks but this is what it looked like. UPS did a number on it. I called and sent Phanteks pictures to get a replacement sent. That California to New Jersey trip is a rough one.


Fatality.


----------



## springs113

It's not just UPS, Fedex almost manhandled my recent motherboard purchase.


----------



## pez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smithydan*
> 
> Still wish the itx version was aluminium.


I actually wish moreso that the white version wasn't glossy. It points out that the panels are not aluminum even more. The sandblasted/satin-like finish on the black one at last has a premium look to it.


----------



## w-moffatt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Modus*
> 
> Upgraded from a 650D. amazing build quality for a $100 case.
> 
> ignore the dirty desk.


yep, agreed value for money is 2nd to none. Any reason you didnt go the full tempered glass pane? I couldnt be happier with mine for the extra $20 over the entry level price point.


----------



## Splash74

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> I think the problem is that the design to manufacturing process takes months... if not years. This design was probably sign off on last year when chatter about the restrictive top was less frequent.
> 
> Considering that ModMyMods ordered panels directly from Phanteks for the sole purpose of cutting them up to improve airflow, I cannot imagine Phanteks presently not being aware of the issue.
> 
> With that said, I would like to see some manifestation of this awareness in their communications and social media postings. @Phanteks Rep
> 
> IMO Phanteks has 3 BIG things to tackle in their next cases.
> 
> Better top panel ventilation (more surface area, less restrictive mesh or no mesh, less obstructions)
> More flexible top radiator mounting (
> 
> 
> 
> and Phanteks Elite). The slide out tray has to go.
> Larger chassis frame. IMO the Enthoo ATX chassis needs to grow for better water cooling and EATX support. ~1.5 inches higher, 1 inch longer. Dual 360x30mm rad support with no compromises or squeezing should be the target.
> Vertical GPU mount for mATX and ATX would be nice as well.


Your right with all ur points my first Phanteks case and build is enthoo luxe tempered glas and was really frustrating getting the rads that the luxe should be able to fit and its 1inch here and there so after some serious Dremel action i got a alphacool XT45 420 mounted as top radiator and used a crowbar to slap a EK coolstream XE360 in the front and seams the Phanteks is not uptodate with the never high density radiators that really gains a lot more performance with push/pull setup HWlabs GTR for example is a beast but demands high speed fans but with push/pull its even more awesome and silent same goes for EK XE radiators .
I wanted to use an XE 360 or HWlabs GTX 360 but i was determined to use push/pull atleast at the top but 2inches short so frustrating when the case has the potential for epic watercooling performance.
Same was down at the bottom 2 inches more space and you could fit at least a 280 or 360 rads aswell





And my current build is a Phanteks Elite and i naturally presumed space for push/pull with a 480 GTR uptop and front bottom would be no problem .
And same problem here missing 2 inches in height top radslot and front rad a 480 feel short of 1.5 inch for push/pull.
So the build i had eagerly planned went to hell i was planning running with 4 HWlabs 480GTR´s with corsair ML120pro fans push/pull.
But missing inches on a few bad places just blew the epic watercooling i had planed .
Same story at the bottom mid radslots 2 inches more height would enable 2 480 rads push/pull .


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> I think the problem is that the design to manufacturing process takes months... if not years. This design was probably sign off on last year when chatter about the restrictive top was less frequent.
> 
> Considering that ModMyMods ordered panels directly from Phanteks for the sole purpose of cutting them up to improve airflow, I cannot imagine Phanteks presently not being aware of the issue.
> 
> With that said, I would like to see some manifestation of this awareness in their communications and social media postings. @Phanteks Rep
> 
> IMO Phanteks has 3 BIG things to tackle in their next cases.
> 
> Better top panel ventilation (more surface area, less restrictive mesh or no mesh, less obstructions)
> More flexible top radiator mounting (
> 
> 
> 
> and Phanteks Elite). The slide out tray has to go.
> Larger chassis frame. IMO the Enthoo ATX chassis needs to grow for better water cooling and EATX support. ~1.5 inches higher, 1 inch longer. Dual 360x30mm rad support with no compromises or squeezing should be the target.
> Vertical GPU mount for mATX and ATX would be nice as well.


Wow! Talk about putting unsubstanciated meaning to someone elses actions.!!








If I was to put a 'sole purpose of cutting them' to ModMyMods it would be to make money.















Of course Phanteks is aware of the venting limitations of Evolv tops. But the facts clearly show many users like the Evolv case line just as it is and don't want to mod it.


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Wow! Talk about putting unsubstanciated meaning to someone elses actions.!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If I was to put a 'sole purpose of cutting them' to ModMyMods it would be to make money.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Of course Phanteks is aware of the venting limitations of Evolv tops. But the facts clearly show many users like the Evolv case line just as it is and don't want to mod it.


I was referencing the theoretical interaction between Phanteks and MMM. If I was MMM, I wouldn't say the sole purpose is to resell them.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> I was referencing the theoretical interaction between Phanteks and MMM. If I was MMM, I wouldn't say the sole purpose is to resell them.


If you were MMM and did not say that you would be lying.







MMM is a business and as a business they sell what makes them money. If they canot make money doing it they would not stay in business. That is the simple fact all businesses are based on. Now if they were a non-profit charity and had lots of people donating money to them they might be doing to to help people .. but they are not.









It's easy for us overclocker custom builders to forget that the vast majority of buyers never build their own systems. The next biggest group of buyers only assemble stock components, then we get to the groups that make minor mods and buy from places like MMM and Mnpctech, etc. or do major mods .. but we are a very small percentage of computer owners.

There is also a company over here in EU doing Evolv modes and a few others using waterjet cutter, don't know who they are by name. I lthink their designs are much nicer than what MMM does.


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> If you were MMM and did not say that you would be lying.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> MMM is a business and as a business they sell what makes them money. If they canot make money doing it they would not stay in business. That is the simple fact all businesses are based on. Now if they were a non-profit charity and had lots of people donating money to them they might be doing to to help people .. but they are not.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's easy for us overclocker custom builders to forget that the vast majority of buyers never build their own systems. The next biggest group of buyers only assemble stock components, then we get to the groups that make minor mods and buy from places like MMM and Mnpctech, etc. or do major mods .. but we are a very small percentage of computer owners.
> 
> There is also a company over here in EU doing Evolv modes and a few others using waterjet cutter, don't know who they are by name. I lthink their designs are much nicer than what MMM does.


You can ask Joe at MMM how much money they make on each one (hint: it's not much). This was pretty much community service.

I'm not saying Phanteks should offer the Evolv with the top cut open. It's highly unlikely they would do that (costs too much and ultimately detracts from the aesthetic). However, I do think they at least need to make some modest airflow improvements (with whatever design the go with) for the next iteration. From the looks of it, the Elite and Evolv Shift both have improved airflow solutions. I would say (not scientific







) >30% of Evolv owners have at least some form of negative opinion about the airflow of the case (whether it actually negatively affects them or not).


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> I'm not saying Phanteks should offer the Evolv with the top cut open.


Ok....but I'll say it.









They should offer a vented top.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> You can ask Joe at MMM how much money they make on each one (hint: it's not much). This was pretty much community service.
> 
> I'm not saying Phanteks should offer the Evolv with the top cut open. It's highly unlikely they would do that (costs too much and ultimately detracts from the aesthetic). However, I do think they at least need to make some modest airflow improvements (with whatever design the go with) for the next iteration. From the looks of it, the Elite and Evolv Shift both have improved airflow solutions. I would say (not scientific
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ) >30% of Evolv owners have at least some form of negative opinion about the airflow of the case (whether it actually negatively affects them or not).


I'm playing devils advocate here, no offense intended.

I know a little about CNC mill / water jet / laser cutting and the expense is having the machine setting idle. They have to run a good percent of the time to cover their cost, so Joe doesn't need to make a huge amount. The cost of cutting is dirt cheap as long as machine is in use 70-80% of the time. Also has to do with what kind of deal Phanteks gave him .. as in time to pay for the blanks they send him.









As for Phanteks making changes that improve top airflow (front on mATX and ATX are really not bad) Phanteks improving airflow would cut the demand for the venting mods MMM and others are doing.

Besides, Phanteks has plenty to keep them busy just trying to keep up with new designs for products so they are not going to be wanting to put too much time and effort into 'upgrading' products already marketed.

What I would like to see is cases that left and right panels mounting systems are identical so panels are easily interchangeable. Case front doors that can be switched from left hand to right hand by simply removing a few screws and remounting .. like refrigerator and freezer doors.







That is the kind of design engineering that is sadly lacking in almost all designs, not just computer cases. Design engineers have little to no understanding of the concept of easy parts changing .. be it a case panel or a
car's spark plugs, etc. In commerical equipment like heavy equipment, off road trucks and even over the road trucks they have a better understanding, but still make complete idiot designs that for the lack of a logical thought process when designing create 10 times as much labor to change/fix things.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Ok....but I'll say it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> They should offer a vented top.


Like I said above, it would kill the niche market the custom waterjet people are filling.


----------



## Splash74

To be really honest Phanteks are a great case manufacturer no doubt but the people who work at Phanteks are hardcore nerds like many of us so it´s not all about mass production for the average Joe its a passion for making the most efficient and beautifully design possibly and yes they only need abit of community radar to be the best brand but no manufacturer is perfect agreed but it wouldn't take much for them to be the leading brand .

Phanteks Elite is a direct response for the extreme builders Overclockers and a intended strong competition for caselabs cases and yes they have successfully made a great effort probably the best case for watercooling ready and possiblity for extreme builds .
But its sooo close to being the ultimate case and like most of everything they make is brilliant, frustrating that that just need alittle fingertip tweaking in a feirce market and huge market potentials.


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> I'm playing devils advocate here, no offense intended.
> 
> I know a little about CNC mill / water jet / laser cutting and the expense is having the machine setting idle. They have to run a good percent of the time to cover their cost, so Joe doesn't need to make a huge amount. The cost of cutting is dirt cheap as long as machine is in use 70-80% of the time. Also has to do with what kind of deal Phanteks gave him .. as in time to pay for the blanks they send him.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As for Phanteks making changes that improve top airflow (front on mATX and ATX are really not bad) Phanteks improving airflow would cut the demand for the venting mods MMM and others are doing.
> 
> Besides, Phanteks has plenty to keep them busy just trying to keep up with new designs for products so they are not going to be wanting to put too much time and effort into 'upgrading' products already marketed.
> 
> What I would like to see is cases that left and right panels mounting systems are identical so panels are easily interchangeable. Case front doors that can be switched from left hand to right hand by simply removing a few screws and remounting .. like refrigerator and freezer doors.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That is the kind of design engineering that is sadly lacking in almost all designs, not just computer cases. Design engineers have little to no understanding of the concept of easy parts changing .. be it a case panel or a
> car's spark plugs, etc. In commerical equipment like heavy equipment, off road trucks and even over the road trucks they have a better understanding, but still make complete idiot designs that for the lack of a logical thought process when designing create 10 times as much labor to change/fix things.


It's all good. From my talks with Joe, it is mostly the painting of the cut surfaces on the black panels (labor) that kills the margins. Gotta respect that dedication for a quality end product though.

I'm mostly referring to an "Enthoo 2.0". I agree, I don't think the current situation "needs" to change. But if Phanteks is going to take the time and effort to upgrade the Evolv line then, IMO, airflow should be put higher up the priorities list this go around.

Totally agree on left an right panels. This makes soooo much sense.


----------



## mrjayviper

just a question please.

on the enthoo luxe tempered glass edition, does it come with LED fans? looking at various reviews, seems the answer is no? thanks


----------



## kush621

Word to the wise. If you are going to convert your aluminum side panel to a TG side panel make sure you tell Phanteks you need the mounting hardware as well. I received my TG side panel an have no way of attaching it. They are sending it out but now I have to wait another week.


----------



## nycgtr

I am still waiting for them to update the primo door lol. I know I got mnpctech option but I would prefer a door with a window vs a pure clear door.


----------



## fil1p

Is there any news on when the Evolv Shift and Shift X are hitting shelves? I thought they were supposed be out for retail at the beginning of August. Looks like an awesome case and since it was announced, except for a few Shift (non X) reviews not much has been seen of it.


----------



## petmic10

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *petmic10*
> 
> Okay guys, my tempered glass door came in from Phanteks but this is what it looked like. UPS did a number on it. I called and sent Phanteks pictures to get a replacement sent. That California to New Jersey trip is a rough one.


My replacement tempered glass door and mounting hardware shipped out today. Hopefully it makes it to me in one piece this time.


----------



## leops1984

Sorry, more questions about the Enthoo Pro M: if I keep the optical drive bay in place is there enough room to fit a 280mm radiator in the top mount? I'm considering water cooling (EK kit with an added GPU block), and would prefer to mount the radiator up top. Am I likely to run into clearance problems? Based on the builds I've seen of the Evolv ATX which has the same interior I don't think so, but I figured it won't hurt to ask.


----------



## Hxxx

Adding my new Phanteks Evolv TG micro ATX edition to the mix. Man I wish Phanteks would just give it a shorter name like "Phanteks Micro Fury " or something i dunno...













More pictures here
https://pcpartpicker.com/b/VNzYcf


----------



## xP_0nex

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fil1p*
> 
> Is there any news on when the Evolv Shift and Shift X are hitting shelves? I thought they were supposed be out for retail at the beginning of August. Looks like an awesome case and since it was announced, except for a few Shift (non X) reviews not much has been seen of it.


I actually emailed Phanteks support and was told they won't hit shelves until at least the beginning of September.

Been waiting patiently, was planning on getting the Shift X, but decided on the Shift instead.


----------



## fil1p

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xP_0nex*
> 
> I actually emailed Phanteks support and was told they won't hit shelves until at least the beginning of September.
> 
> Been waiting patiently, was planning on getting the Shift X, but decided on the Shift instead.


Good to know, thanks!

Both are great, the Shift seems a bit tight if you plan on watercooling. The Shift X should fit a 280mm + a 120mm if I remember correctly. If I do a build anytime in the near future it will quite possibly be in the Shift X. My current case is the complete opposite of the Shift X, the Corsair Obsidian 800D is a beast, but these days you can get beastly hardware in a small form factor.


----------



## xP_0nex

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fil1p*
> 
> Good to know, thanks!
> 
> Both are great, the Shift seems a bit tight if you plan on watercooling. The Shift X should fit a 280mm + a 120mm if I remember correctly. If I do a build anytime in the near future it will quite possibly be in the Shift X. My current case is the complete opposite of the Shift X, the Corsair Obsidian 800D is a beast, but these days you can get beastly hardware in a small form factor.


I was debating back and forth on whether I should the Shift X or Shift, but decided to take my chance with the Shift. I'm planning on running AIO's for both the CPU and GPU so hopefully everything goes well. According to their own marketing materials, should fit nicely.


----------



## jadeamira

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fil1p*
> 
> Is there any news on when the Evolv Shift and Shift X are hitting shelves? I thought they were supposed be out for retail at the beginning of August. Looks like an awesome case and since it was announced, except for a few Shift (non X) reviews not much has been seen of it.


Hey I emailed Phanteks like 2 weeks ago and they said, "Phanteks Shift series will be available in www.newegg.com, www.amazon.com and www.phanteksusa.com by mid Sep 2017. Tks"
I also know the shift x will be 159 usd and the shift will be 105


----------



## ride1226

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hxxx*
> 
> Adding my new Phanteks Evolv TG micro ATX edition to the mix. Man I wish Phanteks would just give it a shorter name like "Phanteks Micro Fury " or something i dunno...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> More pictures here
> https://pcpartpicker.com/b/9Djypg


That is pretty glorious my friend. Now that I dont have any of my watercooling parts (all in my buddies build) I wish I still had them and tried to cram them in my p400s tg. Oh well.

Went to go look at more pics of your build, says it was taken down.


----------



## Hxxx

delete double post


----------



## Hxxx

Delete double post


----------



## Hxxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ride1226*
> 
> That is pretty glorious my friend. Now that I dont have any of my watercooling parts (all in my buddies build) I wish I still had them and tried to cram them in my p400s tg. Oh well.
> 
> Went to go look at more pics of your build, says it was taken down.


yeah I took it down because I made a couple changes . It actually just got posted.
Here is the link

https://pcpartpicker.com/b/VNzYcf


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hxxx*
> 
> yeah I took it down because I made a couple changes . It actually just got posted.
> Here is the link
> 
> https://pcpartpicker.com/b/VNzYcf


Very nice looking build .. too pink for me, but I can still appreciate all the fine work.


----------



## JOASJOAS

A doubt, led strip, phanteks, to put it in evolv tg, need adapter? Or just the led strip? I am going to buy a msi pro carbon with rgb, where will I have to connect led?


----------



## ride1226

So in my p400s TG I am currently pretty happy with my cooling however I just want to be sure I am not missing any opportunities. I have delidded my cpu which brought my cpu temps down drastically with my H7 quad lumi cooler which in turn allowed the cpu cooler fan to run at lower speeds keeping things more quiet. My two front instakes are Phantek 140mm static pressure units and my rear exhaust is the stock phantek 120mm. I have nothing in my two top fan slots so 3 case fans total.

The last noisy component in my system is my graphics card. Just idling on the desktop my EVGA GTX1080 FTW is sitting at 55c and when gaming the fans ramp up quite a bit as it reaches into the 70s. I believe that with more airflow through the case I may be able to bring temps down on the card but without bottom intake fans I'm not totally sure how to pull that off. Would adding anything in my top slots help pull air through the case quicker?

I am debating getting a dust filter for the rear fan and spinning it to be an intake. This was I would have two 140mm intakes in front, one in rear, and then I could add two exhausts to the top. I have sitting in front of me two of the Corsair 140mm Quiet Airflow fans that I could put up top as exhausts if I spin the rear to intake.

I also thought about using the two same Corsair fans up top as intakes giving me massive positive pressure as I would have 4x140mm intakes and a single 120mm exhaust. I feel like this would just create turbulence though.

Any input? Thanks all!


----------



## nycgtr

Work in progress still.. And because I got tired of looking my evolv tg and everyone eleses evolv tg


----------



## FIDDY57

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nycgtr*
> 
> Work in progress still.. And because I got tired of looking my evolv tg and everyone eleses evolv tg


very nice looking.
I just pulled the trigger on buying a elite. Will arrive next week. This is a phanteks case thread right?. Will post pics when the beast arrives lol


----------



## Spork13

I have a sudden urge to upgrade and / or put together a new PC - but I can't really justify it as my current one (4790k, 1070, SSD's...) does everything I need.
I'm thinking just moving everything into a nice new case might scratch my itch without spending thousands, and I think a Enthoo Evolv ATX TG (in Galaxy Silver) will be that case.

I'm currently using a Phanteks Entho Pro (white) which I selected largely based on reviews saying it was a superior case for air cooling. I loved assembling my PC in that case. Everything was just sooo easy compared to previous cases. I still have that hot running Haswell CPU, but have reduced GPU thermal load by about 300 - 400w going from xfire 280x to single GTX 1070.

- Doyll - If I'm reading the last 10 or so pages correctly you're saying that airflow on this case is fine for a system like mine mostly running at stock clocks and voltages, with air cooling?

- Do I need to order any additional mounting brackets to fit 1 x HDD and 2 x SSD? I'd prefer to fit them all in the front / bottom drive cage under the PSU shroud,

-I don't mind spending time on cable management, but not on the BACK of the MB tray... That's like doing cable management inside the PSU shroud. I'm just not that OCD. Do Phanteks sell an aluminium side panel (back side) that fits straight on without having to mod anything? Failing that I guess a really dark tint, or plastidip, is my friend. Maybe I'd be better off with the black case so I could colour match...

-Any good reasons for someone in my situation NOT to buy this case?


----------



## nycgtr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FIDDY57*
> 
> very nice looking.
> I just pulled the trigger on buying a elite. Will arrive next week. This is a phanteks case thread right?. Will post pics when the beast arrives lol


Nice, the elite is a gorgeous case. I wanted it but I got like 6 cases already and the wife would be in rage mode.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FIDDY57*
> 
> very nice looking.
> I just pulled the trigger on buying a elite. Will arrive next week. This is a phanteks case thread right?. Will post pics when the beast arrives lol


I wanted to get an Elite, but don't really have any place to put it .. not to mention how much more it costs.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spork13*
> 
> I have a sudden urge to upgrade and / or put together a new PC - but I can't really justify it as my current one (4790k, 1070, SSD's...) does everything I need.
> I'm thinking just moving everything into a nice new case might scratch my itch without spending thousands, and I think a Enthoo Evolv ATX TG (in Galaxy Silver) will be that case.
> 
> I'm currently using a Phanteks Entho Pro (white) which I selected largely based on reviews saying it was a superior case for air cooling. I loved assembling my PC in that case. Everything was just sooo easy compared to previous cases. I still have that hot running Haswell CPU, but have reduced GPU thermal load by about 300 - 400w going from xfire 280x to single GTX 1070.
> 
> - Doyll - If I'm reading the last 10 or so pages correctly you're saying that airflow on this case is fine for a system like mine mostly running at stock clocks and voltages, with air cooling?
> 
> - Do I need to order any additional mounting brackets to fit 1 x HDD and 2 x SSD? I'd prefer to fit them all in the front / bottom drive cage under the PSU shroud,
> 
> -I don't mind spending time on cable management, but not on the BACK of the MB tray... That's like doing cable management inside the PSU shroud. I'm just not that OCD. Do Phanteks sell an aluminium side panel (back side) that fits straight on without having to mod anything? Failing that I guess a really dark tint, or plastidip, is my friend. Maybe I'd be better off with the black case so I could colour match...
> 
> -Any good reasons for someone in my situation NOT to buy this case?


Should work just fine.

Put 1x 3.5" drive under PSU cover and there are 2x SSDs mounts on back of motherboard tray.

I don't know if Phanteks sells TG to metal cover conversion, but they sell TG panel, hinges etc. for metal sided Evolv ATX. It would be easy to apply a very dark tint to inside of right TG panel.

I can't think of any. Maybe someone will .


----------



## nycgtr

I gotta be the first blue one right? Lots more to do.


----------



## Hxxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nycgtr*
> 
> I gotta be the first blue one right? Lots more to do.


That case is ginormous. I love it.


----------



## Amhro

I have Phanteks Eclipse P400S Tempered glass case, using 3 fans (2 phanteks fans and 1 noctua).

With opened window, temps are very cool, cpu is at +-35-40°C under full load.
GPU is at 70°C under full load.



Great temps right, but after closing the window, cpu temp will go up to 55°C (which is pretty much max for this cpu) and gpu rises to 90°C. All this with case fans set @ max speed.
Will another intake fan help? Another outtake? Top fans? Any idea?


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Amhro*
> 
> I have Phanteks Eclipse P400S Tempered glass case, using 3 fans (2 phanteks fans and 1 noctua).
> 
> With opened window, temps are very cool, cpu is at +-35-40°C under full load.
> GPU is at 70°C under full load.
> Great temps right, but after closing the window, cpu temp will go up to 55°C (which is pretty much max for this cpu) and gpu rises to 90°C. All this with case fans set @ max speed.
> Will another intake fan help? Another outtake? Top fans? Any idea?


That Noctua fan, would it happen to be a NF-S12 ?


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Amhro*
> 
> I have Phanteks Eclipse P400S Tempered glass case, using 3 fans (2 phanteks fans and 1 noctua).
> 
> With opened window, temps are very cool, cpu is at +-35-40°C under full load.
> GPU is at 70°C under full load.
> 
> Great temps right, but after closing the window, cpu temp will go up to 55°C (which is pretty much max for this cpu) and gpu rises to 90°C. All this with case fans set @ max speed.
> Will another intake fan help? Another outtake? Top fans? Any idea?


What speed are the case fans running?
Have you tried removing the unused PCIe back slot covers? This usually lowers temps by giving case better front to back airflow.


----------



## Amhro

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gilles3000*
> 
> That Noctua fan, would it happen to be a NF-S12 ?


Yes, it is NF-S12-1200.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> What speed are the case fans running?
> Have you tried removing the unused PCIe back slot covers? This usually lowers temps by giving case better front to back airflow.


At max speed it should be 1200rpm. I haven't tried that, I'm not very confident about it helping much.


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Amhro*
> 
> Yes, it is NF-S12-1200.
> At max speed it should be 1200rpm. I haven't tried that, I'm not very confident about it helping much.


The NF-S12 is basically useless anywhere with dense grills, let alone fan filters. You'll need some new fans.

Don't know if you can order from germany, but you can get Thermalright TY-143 SQ's for €12 over there, they're pretty quiet and capable of moving tons of air if ran at full speed. 2 of them as intake would solve your temp issues easily.
https://www.mindfactory.de/product_info.php/Thermalright-TY-143-SQ-140x150x25mm-600-2500-U-min-21-45-dB-A--rot-oran_1111799.html

And removing the pcie slot covers will definitely help a bit.

And don't forget to clean the filters regularly, they're really small on the 400S so they get clogged with dust really quickly.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Amhro*
> 
> Yes, it is NF-S12-1200.
> At max speed it should be 1200rpm. I haven't tried that, I'm not very confident about it helping much.


What Gilles3000 said.
The TY-143 are massive overkill because you wlll never use them above 1300rpm. The EUO 11.94 is a great price but I'm afraid shipping would make them more expensive then in country costs. Could you post a link to where you can buy fans?

First thing I would try is switching back fan with NF-S12 .. and remove the unused PCIe slot covers will almost double the rear vent area.
You can also try running with front off to see how much the front is restricting airflow.

My P400 TG is running cool enough for me with both stock fans as front intakes, but it is running a stock 6700k and no GPU,


----------



## Amhro

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gilles3000*
> 
> The NF-S12 is basically useless anywhere with dense grills, let alone fan filters. You'll need some new fans.
> 
> DOn't know if you can order from germany, but you can get Thermalright TY-143 SQ's for €12 over there, they're pretty quiet and capable of moving tons of air if ran at full speed. 2 of them as intake would solve your temp issues easily.
> https://www.mindfactory.de/product_info.php/Thermalright-TY-143-SQ-140x150x25mm-600-2500-U-min-21-45-dB-A--rot-oran_1111799.html
> 
> And removing the pcie slot covers will definitely help a bit.
> 
> And don't forget to clean the filters regularly, they're really small on the 400S so they get clogged with dus really quickly.


Whoops, didn't know that about that noctua. I got it for free from a friend so I did not mind. Thanks.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> What Gilles3000 said.
> The TY-143 are massive overkill because you wlll never use them above 1300rpm. The EUO 11.94 is a great price but I'm afraid shipping would make them more expensive then in country costs. Could you post a link to where you can buy fans?
> 
> First thing I would try is switching back fan with NF-S12 .. and remove the unused PCIe slot covers will almost double the rear vent area.
> You can also try running with front off to see how much the front is restricting airflow.
> 
> My P400 TG is running cool enough for me with both stock fans as front intakes, but it is running a stock 6700k and no GPU,


Yeah sure, that would be awesome! https://www.alza.sk/EN/cooling/case-fans/18842848.htm
I will try the PCIe slot covers then.
Front is fine, already tried that


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Amhro*
> 
> Whoops, didn't know that about that noctua. I got it for free from a friend so I did not mind. Thanks.
> Yeah sure, that would be awesome! https://www.alza.sk/EN/cooling/case-fans/18842848.htm
> I will try the PCIe slot covers then.
> Front is fine, already tried that


Not doubting your word, but I find it strange that running without side cover lowers temps dramatically, but removing front makes no difference. I have not done any independent tests of the P400 case fans, but mine are flowing enough air for my needs .. but I see 2-3c difference at full load with front removed.

Quick look at our link shows Fractal Design HP14 PWM €18.90
https://www.alza.sk/EN/fractal-design-venturi-hp-14-pwm-black-d2845047.htm

SilenciumPC Sigma Pro 140 PWM impeller is a direct copy of Thermalright TY-14x fan and Noctua NF-A14 PWM, NF-A15, etc. This impeller performs very well. It's only an educated guess, but I think these fans should work well. They are €10.90
https://www.alza.sk/EN/silentiumpc-sigma-pro-140-pwm-d4165560.htm


----------



## Amhro

Isn't it a problem that they are PWM? Is it fine with Phanteks fan controller?


----------



## JOASJOAS

I have several doubts that do not clear me, have if you can help me.
-Phanteks evolv tempered.
- I have 2 nb eloop of 120mm of my previous pc.
- I bought a Nzxt Kraken x62.
1) I want to buy 2 140mm fans for the radiator, I wanted to know, if the phanteks 140mm MP, are similar to the vardar or nb eloop 140mm or if I recommend others.
2) Where will it be best to install the radiator? I had thought of the front and exhaust the 2 nb eloop 120mm exhaust air and buy another for rear exhaust.

I hope I have explained. I hear suggestions :


----------



## mfknjadagr8

I feel like I'm the only person who's removed the primo front cover on the bottom mesh panel....it reminded me of a cabinet door so it had to go... and it resembles the pro front without it which i like


----------



## FIDDY57

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> I feel like I'm the only person who's removed the primo front cover on the bottom mesh panel....it reminded me of a cabinet door so it had to go... and it resembles the pro front without it which i like


I didnt like the front panel either so i purchased a full acrylic front panel to replace it from nmpc. 80$. When i started my upgrade to a custom loop gave up on the primo case a got a elite instead. Will love the front tempered glass panel in it.


----------



## FIDDY57

Question for the thread. Just purchased the elite. Saw phantek video on you tube and there website putting a 400mm cylinder res on top of a 360 monsta rad on the bottom section of the tower. My question is does phanteks sell the mounting brackets that were used in the video to mount the res horizontally or were rhey a 3rd party bracket? I plan on doing rhe same thing in my elite and have every thing ordered except what to use to mount the res on top of the lower rad horizontally. Any one know?? Thanks


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Amhro*
> 
> Isn't it a problem that they are PWM? Is it fine with Phanteks fan controller?


You can use then on fan hub if you want. Or you can use them with PWM control. Most all PWM fan can be controlled with variable voltage. PWM fans that cannot be are ones with LED lighting or maglev bearings.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JOASJOAS*
> 
> I have several doubts that do not clear me, have if you can help me.
> -Phanteks evolv tempered.
> - I have 2 nb eloop of 120mm of my previous pc.
> - I bought a Nzxt Kraken x62.
> 1) I want to buy 2 140mm fans for the radiator, I wanted to know, if the phanteks 140mm MP, are similar to the vardar or nb eloop 140mm or if I recommend others.
> 2) Where will it be best to install the radiator? I had thought of the front and exhaust the 2 nb eloop 120mm exhaust air and buy another for rear exhaust.
> 
> I hope I have explained. I hear suggestions :


Evolv ATX is an excellent case, but is not as versatile as others .. meaning component selections requires more planing. While the top allows for a 280mm radiator to be mounted, there is not enough top venting to use low quality radiator that require high airflow to cool properly. End result is you need to mount it in the front and this means anything not being water cooled has to use the pre-heated air coming out of radiator.

If I was you and could return the X62 I would and replace it with a quality air cooler that will clear RAM and PCIe sockets on your motherboard. Something like R1 Ultimate, TRUE Spirit 140, Le Grand Macho, Macho 140, H5 Ultimate, PH-TC14PE, etc. You will have CPU cooling at least as good (better at same noise levels) and cooler airflow to GPU.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FIDDY57*
> 
> I didnt like the front panel either so i purchased a full acrylic front panel to replace it from nmpc. 80$. When i started my upgrade to a custom loop gave up on the primo case a got a elite instead. Will love the front tempered glass panel in it.


Any pics of your front? Would love to see them.


----------



## nycgtr

My door cutting has gone pretty bad. Trying to fix it up LOL. Seems like mnpctech is about to make some money from me, if I can't fix the botched job









The front panel will stay like that till I come up with something better. My wife wanted to help, so it got fed up so it's temp but will do for now.


----------



## leops1984

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> If I was you and could return the X62 I would and replace it with a quality air cooler that will clear RAM and PCIe sockets on your motherboard. Something like R1 Ultimate, TRUE Spirit 140, Le Grand Macho, Macho 140, H5 Ultimate, PH-TC14PE, etc. You will have CPU cooling at least as good (better at same noise levels) and cooler airflow to GPU.


doyll, do any of those have AM4 mounting brackets already in-box? I've been looking at air coolers for my own upcoming Ryzen build, but as far as I can tell the very best air coolers like those you mentioned still don't have AM4 support in-box, with the exception of the NH-D15, which I'm less than enthused by (for color and RAM clearance reasons).


----------



## springs113

What rad is that up top?


----------



## Mega Man

Apparently the new Noctuas does. I like the ndh15s as it is offset to not interfere with your gpu


----------



## THFourteen

Hey folks, about to build a custom loop in an Enthoo Pro M, any advice on fan configuration?

I'll have a Black ice GTS 280 in the front with two NF-A14s and a Black Ice GTS 360 at the top with three EK Vardar 120ERs.

What other fans should I install? Without buying any, I have three 140mm bitspower spectre pwm (not the pro versions) and the two phanteks phans that came with the case.

Am not opposed to buying any more the only proviso being if they are visible they need to be white!


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *leops1984*
> 
> doyll, do any of those have AM4 mounting brackets already in-box? I've been looking at air coolers for my own upcoming Ryzen build, but as far as I can tell the very best air coolers like those you mentioned still don't have AM4 support in-box, with the exception of the NH-D15, which I'm less than enthused by (for color and RAM clearance reasons).


The ones mentioned from Cryorig, Thermalright and Noctua have AM4 support. But the Phanteks doesn't.


----------



## ride1226

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *leops1984*
> 
> doyll, do any of those have AM4 mounting brackets already in-box? I've been looking at air coolers for my own upcoming Ryzen build, but as far as I can tell the very best air coolers like those you mentioned still don't have AM4 support in-box, with the exception of the NH-D15, which I'm less than enthused by (for color and RAM clearance reasons).


I got the new Cryorig H7 Quad Lumi and it has AM4 support out of the box. It's not a dual tower but it's doing well in my build as I gradually optimize fan setups and whatnot.


----------



## ride1226

Does The Evolve Matx case flow air better than the p400s? Kinda regretting my p400s after seeing how much more room for a nicer cpu cooler there is in the evolve matx. Could have went with the Cryorig r1 universal or a similar dual tower vs my single tower cooler since it allows for up to 192mm of cooler clearance. Plus I run the Asus z270g so having an even smaller build would be cool. Hmmm.


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ride1226*
> 
> Does The Evolve Matx case flow air better than the p400s? Kinda regretting my p400s after seeing how much more room for a nicer cpu cooler there is in the evolve matx. Could have went with the Cryorig r1 universal or a similar dual tower vs my single tower cooler since it allows for up to 192mm of cooler clearance. Plus I run the Asus z270g so having an even smaller build would be cool. Hmmm.


160mm is enough to fit some top of the line coolers though, like the Thermalright Le Grand Macho RT for example.

The Evolv mATX is probably a bit better for airflow, but neither are particularly great. The evolv does come with much nicer fans, if you move the one in the back to the front, add a PH-F140MP in the back, you should have a pretty capable case.


----------



## Spork13

I pulled my PC (Enthoo Pro) apart and cleaned all 6 fans and the heat-sink, dusted the rest of the inside, cleaned the window and case, moved the drives so that I could fit a 3rd 140mm fan in the front, tidied up the wiring, got rid of the 200mm fan I had as a top exhaust and replaced it with a 140mm one...
Looks great - but still not as nice as the Evolv TG.



Hopefully I can do this case justice, and hopefully scratch my upgrade itch without having to buy all new hardware.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *leops1984*
> 
> doyll, do any of those have AM4 mounting brackets already in-box? I've been looking at air coolers for my own upcoming Ryzen build, but as far as I can tell the very best air coolers like those you mentioned still don't have AM4 support in-box, with the exception of the NH-D15, which I'm less than enthused by (for color and RAM clearance reasons).


I think they all now have AM4 mounts
Cryorig said several months ago
Quote:


> Natively supporting Ryzen dedicated version models will begin to release later in Q2 2017 and will consist of the full CRYORIG cooling portfolio.


Thermalright told me similar and their website shows AM4 in cooler mount discription.

Not sure about Phanteks. I've also seen a couple of PH-TC14PE in last week that have one piece press fit fins instead of the 2 piece sweat soldered fins. I've asked Phanteks CS what the deal is a week ago an have not heard back yet.

Probably the best and quietest are Le Grand Macho andTRUE Spirit 140 Power with NH-D15 and NH-D15S similar at same rpm, Thermalright Silver Arrow IB-E Extreme is also just as quiet up to 1300 rpm, but it's TY-143 2500 rpm fans get progressively louder the faster they go .. and with the extreme airflow fans comes the ability to remove much more heat. Problem is obviously the noise level and that case airflow must be increased to match or air going into cooler get progressively hotter raising CPU temps accordingly. We tested TRUE Spirit 140 Power (and NH-D14) with TY-143 fans on i7 920 @ 4.3GHz with CPU temps being 7-9c cooler at full speed vs low noise levels.


NH-D14 performs as well as D15 with same fans.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ride1226*
> 
> Does The Evolve Matx case flow air better than the p400s? Kinda regretting my p400s after seeing how much more room for a nicer cpu cooler there is in the evolve matx. Could have went with the Cryorig r1 universal or a similar dual tower vs my single tower cooler since it allows for up to 192mm of cooler clearance. Plus I run the Asus z270g so having an even smaller build would be cool. Hmmm.


What Gilles3000 said.








Here is Le Grand Macho dimensions. RT version comes with TY-147A fan which is 26mm thick so front of fan is only 48.5mm from center of CPU .. meaning it clears even the tallest RAM in front of CPU.


----------



## Tapp

I'm sure this has been asked before but can the original Evolv ATX be modded to fit the TG Panel? Is it possible to order the TG Panel and hardware? How are would it be doing the mode? Would I just need to drill the holes into the chassis? Thanks for your assistance.


----------



## springs113

So, I've decided to switch cases again(bangs head) and now decided to go with Enthoo Elite, as far as I can tell the interior of both colors are the same. Aren't they? I mean other than the covers by the drive bay area that is facing the TG side panel.


----------



## leops1984

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ride1226*
> 
> I got the new Cryorig H7 Quad Lumi and it has AM4 support out of the box. It's not a dual tower but it's doing well in my build as I gradually optimize fan setups and whatnot.


That's.... interesting, because I was going by the website which says that it's still a separate kit.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> I think they all now have AM4 mounts
> Cryorig said several months ago
> Thermalright told me similar and their website shows AM4 in cooler mount discription.
> 
> Not sure about Phanteks. I've also seen a couple of PH-TC14PE in last week that have one piece press fit fins instead of the 2 piece sweat soldered fins. I've asked Phanteks CS what the deal is a week ago an have not heard back yet.


I was going by their websites, which seem to be mixed if they have AM4 in the box or not.
Quote:


> Probably the best and quietest are Le Grand Macho and TRUE Spirit 140 Power with NH-D15 and NH-D15S similar at same rpm, Thermalright Silver Arrow IB-E Extreme is also just as quiet up to 1300 rpm, but it's TY-143 2500 rpm fans get progressively louder the faster they go .. and with the extreme airflow fans comes the ability to remove much more heat.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> What Gilles3000 said.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is Le Grand Macho dimensions. RT version comes with TY-147A fan which is 26mm thick so front of fan is only 48.5mm from center of CPU .. meaning it clears even the tallest RAM in front of CPU.


Hmm... that's an interesting option. I used to have a Thermalright cooler back in my Q6600 days, and it worked well. Am I missing something or there's not really a drawback going with the Grand Macho over the most common high-end AM4 recommendation, the NH-D15 AM4 version? FWIW noise is very much a secondary concern to me - I'm all about thermal performance since I'm in the tropics.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tapp*
> 
> I'm sure this has been asked before but can the original Evolv ATX be modded to fit the TG Panel? Is it possible to order the TG Panel and hardware? How are would it be doing the mode? Would I just need to drill the holes into the chassis? Thanks for your assistance.


Phanteks Customer Support told me they can
Quote:


> Right now the cases that are interchangeable with the non-TG and TG panels are the P400(s), and Evolv ATX.


9 August 2017 - 4:55 PM.


----------



## Tapp

Thanks!


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *leops1984*
> 
> That's.... interesting, because I was going by the website which says that it's still a separate kit.
> I was going by their websites, which seem to be mixed if they have AM4 in the box or not.
> 
> Hmm... that's an interesting option. I used to have a Thermalright cooler back in my Q6600 days, and it worked well. Am I missing something or there's not really a drawback going with the Grand Macho over the most common high-end AM4 recommendation, the NH-D15 AM4 version? FWIW noise is very much a secondary concern to me - I'm all about thermal performance since I'm in the tropics.


I just heard from Phanteks about the AM4 mounts. They can send you one. Not all stock in retail outlets have new enough stock to have AM4 mount included and as far as I know the new boxes may not say it is in the box even if it is. We are still buying cases with website and boxes saying "PH-F140SP" case fans when they have been SP like housing and motor with MP like impeller for over a year now.









The Noctua popularity is what makes them sell more than Thermalright and others.

All of the top Thermalright coolers are rated 320 watt TDP I know that's only a rating but I have found Thermalright to always give honest specificatons.


----------



## Gilles3000

On their website, AM4 support isn't listed for any of their coolers and there isn't even a mention of which fans you're getting in your case aside from the amount and size.

I think these details are pretty important and its not something their main competitors fail to mention either.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gilles3000*
> 
> On their website, AM4 support isn't listed for any of their coolers and there isn't even a mention of which fans you're getting in your case aside from the amount and size.
> 
> I think these details are pretty important and its not something their main competitors fail to mention either.


I know. The have made many changes and not told us. I have the specs for the new (year old now) case fans.


To be honest, the specifications are deceiving because these new case fans move more air at low speed against resistance then old fans did .. and specs only show what they do free air and static pressure at full speed .. a speed many of us rarely use.


----------



## votum

Hey guys, looking for some advice right quick:

I'm buying a Z270I/4266ram/7700k/1080ti seahawk in a couple days.

Can't decide on a case, I want the shift, but don't think it's going to do so hot on the cooling department. Not enough reviews out to trust them yet either.

So I'm trying to decide between the new TG Evolv ITX or MATX.

I want to grab a kraken x62 and the GPU has a 120mm fan/rad with it. Both should fit no problem in the ITX case, but I see lots of folks ragging on the air flow.

What do you guys recommend?


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *votum*
> 
> Hey guys, looking for some advice right quick:
> 
> I'm buying a Z270I/4266ram/7700k/1080ti seahawk in a couple days.
> 
> Can't decide on a case, I want the shift, but don't think it's going to do so hot on the cooling department. Not enough reviews out to trust them yet either.
> 
> So I'm trying to decide between the new TG Evolv ITX or MATX.
> 
> I want to grab a kraken x62 and the GPU has a 120mm fan/rad with it. Both should fit no problem in the ITX case, but I see lots of folks ragging on the air flow.
> 
> What do you guys recommend?


I'd get the MATX, I'm not a fan of the ITX, it uses plastic on the front panel instead of full alu/steel on the mATX/ATX and its too big for an ITX case.

If you mount the X62 up top, just cover cover the remainder of the holes to prevent warm air from recirculating.


----------



## Damn Dirty Ape

Ok, I'm trying to get my new Evolv TG mid-tower set up with the NZXT x62. I've spent about 2 hours over the last two evenings trying to find how to hook up the following so it all works right.

As of now my x62 will not vary the fan speed no matter what I select silent, etc..

standard phanteks in the upper rear that it came with
two standard phanteks fans in the front that it came with.

These three are connected to the fan hub in the back. (I'm starting to feel this hub is useless as the asus x270 formula has fan expert built in already.

Then I have all the connectors coming off the x62 which I've connected but for the life of me I can't figure out why the x62 and the two nzxt fans it came with cannot be speed controlled by the cam software?

I have no idea where I've gone wrong here.


----------



## v1ral

Anyone coming from the Corsair Air 540? How does the Evolv ATX compare?
Thinking about making the switch


----------



## votum

Cool thanks man.

Should I also get the Z270G instead of I?


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *votum*
> 
> Cool thanks man.
> 
> Should I also get the Z270G instead of I?


Of course, don't think there's any benefit to putting an ITX board in the Evolv mATX, so you'd just be losing out on a ton of expandability for no benefit.


----------



## Hxxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *votum*
> 
> Hey guys, looking for some advice right quick:
> 
> I'm buying a Z270I/4266ram/7700k/1080ti seahawk in a couple days.
> 
> Can't decide on a case, I want the shift, but don't think it's going to do so hot on the cooling department. Not enough reviews out to trust them yet either.
> 
> So I'm trying to decide between the new TG Evolv ITX or MATX.
> 
> I want to grab a kraken x62 and the GPU has a 120mm fan/rad with it. Both should fit no problem in the ITX case, but I see lots of folks ragging on the air flow.
> 
> What do you guys recommend?


+1 on the Matx. I just finished a build with it and the Z170i. Highly recommend


----------



## votum

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gilles3000*
> 
> Of course, don't think there's any benefit to putting an ITX board in the Evolv mATX, so you'd just be losing out on a ton of expandability for no benefit.


I'd planned on getting some of that fancy rgb ram at 4266mhz, I guess it will still run at 4133 in the 270G


----------



## ride1226

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *votum*
> 
> I'd planned on getting some of that fancy rgb ram at 4266mhz, I guess it will still run at 4133 in the 270G


For whatever reason I can't get my Corsair 3200mhz to even run at 3200mhz. If I push past 2666nhz my whole systems speed just tanks. That being said I love my Asus z270g otherwise.


----------



## votum

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ride1226*
> 
> For whatever reason I can't get my Corsair 3200mhz to even run at 3200mhz. If I push past 2666nhz my whole systems speed just tanks. That being said I love my Asus z270g otherwise.


The all black is sexy


----------



## pez

Newegg has the Evolv ITX TG on sale....highly considering it. Inspected the product page and photos on the Phanteks site, but it looks largely the same. Your only differences are the MP-style 140mm that's included (no more 200mm) and the TG panel.

I'm still quite a fan of the case even though I do agree that I would like all aluminum panels. I'm trying to be patient however and see what Fractal wants to do as far as an ITX case or ITX refresh....this is getting hard







.


----------



## leops1984

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> I just heard from Phanteks about the AM4 mounts. They can send you one. Not all stock in retail outlets have new enough stock to have AM4 mount included and as far as I know the new boxes may not say it is in the box even if it is. We are still buying cases with website and boxes saying "PH-F140SP" case fans when they have been SP like housing and motor with MP like impeller for over a year now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The Noctua popularity is what makes them sell more than Thermalright and others.
> 
> All of the top Thermalright coolers are rated 320 watt TDP I know that's only a rating but I have found Thermalright to always give honest specificatons.


Thanks for that info - I'll be looking closely at all the options, especially Thermalright.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *leops1984*
> 
> Thanks for that info - I'll be looking closely at all the options, especially Thermalright.


Look around at all the big coolers available in your part of Earth and if one catches your eye with a good price let us know. There are may good big coolers out there that I did not list.


----------



## nycgtr

Test fit on my diy cut up primo window side panel. Touch ups heavily needed


----------



## sehop

Does anyone know if I could run into any issues using an extension cable for the Enthoo luxe fan hub (the 4pin cable that connects to cpu_fan)? Has anyone used an extension cable themselves for this fan hub? @doyll

Thanks


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sehop*
> 
> Does anyone know if I could run into any issues using an extension cable for the Enthoo luxe fan hub (the 4pin cable that connects to cpu_fan)? Has anyone used an extension cable themselves for this fan hub? @doyll
> 
> Thanks


You an use an extension in needed.


----------



## Spork13

Ordered some B&W cable extensions with my new case.
But case is silver...
Just ordered 3 extensions from Cablemods (for$90 AUD) in back, white and silver.

New case as a cheap alternative to new PC is turning out to be not so cheap...








Hope I can do it justice.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spork13*
> 
> Ordered some B&W cable extensions with my new case.
> But case is silver...
> Just ordered 3 extensions from Cablemods (for$90 AUD) in back, white and silver.
> 
> New case as a cheap alternative to new PC is turning out to be not so cheap...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hope I can do it justice.


$90 for 3 extensions!







Seems it's time to start doing your own cable sleeving.


----------



## Spork13

In the checkout it said $52 (USD)
I thought thats not bad so hit the PayPal button.
Add $20 postage, and a ****ty exchange rate...

IDK if I have the eyesight, manual dexterity, or patience to do a good job of sleeving.


----------



## ZazzaZ

Hi, I'm about to replace my old and worn Carbide 500R and my choice has fallen upon Phanteks but still undecided if the Pro or the Luxe will be the one. I'd really go for the Pro but my main concern is about CPU cooler and clearance for top fans mounting. I currently have a Cryorig Universal and can't make out if there will be room enough to install a couple of 140mm exhaust fans on top of the chassis.If not I'd for the Luxe but I would really like to save some bucks. Thanks.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZazzaZ*
> 
> Hi, I'm about to replace my old and worn Carbide 500R and my choice has fallen upon Phanteks but still undecided if the Pro or the Luxe will be the one. I'd really go for the Pro but my main concern is about CPU cooler and clearance for top fans mounting. I currently have a Cryorig Universal and can't make out if there will be room enough to install a couple of 140mm exhaust fans on top of the chassis.If not I'd for the Luxe but I would really like to save some bucks. Thanks.


Enthoo Luxe and Enthoo Pro both use the same case with different front and top panels.
I do not recommend using top fans because the run at right angle to front-to-back case airflow. As exhaust they draw GPU's heated air up around CPU cooler causing CPU to runn hotter. In my Luxe |I used 2x front and 1x bottom PH-F140SP fans and no exhaust fan. Airflow into CPU and GPU when stress testing is 3c above room ambient.

Also, new cases have come with a new no model number fan that has a PH-F140SP like housing and motor wiht a PH-F140MP like impeller. I know, case specifications say either PH-F140SP or no fan is specified. No idea why Phanteks isn't telling us what we are buying. Very unprofessional in my book.


----------



## ZazzaZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Enthoo Luxe and Enthoo Pro both use the same case with different front and top panels.
> I do not recommend using top fans because the run at right angle to front-to-back case airflow. As exhaust they draw GPU's heated air up around CPU cooler causing CPU to runn hotter. In my Luxe |I used 2x front and 1x bottom PH-F140SP fans and no exhaust fan. Airflow into CPU and GPU when stress testing is 3c above room ambient.
> 
> Also, new cases have come with a new no model number fan that has a PH-F140SP like housing and motor wiht a PH-F140MP like impeller. I know, case specifications say either PH-F140SP or no fan is specified. No idea why Phanteks isn't telling us what we are buying. Very unprofessional in my book.


Well, my plan was to replace stock fans and install 6 Corsair AF140QE. 2 on front and 1 at the bottom as intake while the two on top and the rear fan would take care of exhausting. I don't really understand what you mean by " run at right angle to front-to-back case airflow" but this fan setup has always worked wonders in my rigs. My only concern, as I stated above, is if the Enthoo Pro has space enough on top to house a couple of fans since my CPU cooler, Cryorig Universal, is quite big and can't figure out if I'll have enough room. Even if Enthoo Pro is taller than my Carbide 500R.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZazzaZ*
> 
> Well, my plan was to replace stock fans and install 6 Corsair AF140QE. 2 on front and 1 at the bottom as intake while the two on top and the rear fan would take care of exhausting. I don't really understand what you mean by " run at right angle to front-to-back case airflow" but this fan setup has always worked wonders in my rigs. My only concern, as I stated above, is if the Enthoo Pro has space enough on top to house a couple of fans since my CPU cooler, Cryorig Universal, is quite big and can't figure out if I'll have enough room. Even if Enthoo Pro is taller than my Carbide 500R.


Why do you want to change three Phanteks fans that work incredibly well in the application to three lesser performing fans? Why wouldn't you simply add three more F140MP if you feel the need to fill every fan space? Or at least put in fans that are equal to or better than what is there already?


----------



## ZazzaZ

Call me nuts but I want all my fans to be the same and plugged to a fan controller. It's not just that i "feel the need to fill every fan space" but the setup I described above has worked just fine for me over the years. Anyway F140MP are pwm and difficult to find where I live and Corsair fans have more or less the same performances but are queiter, which is important for me. But my question is another...if only somebody could give me Enthoo Pro internal measurements to see if Cryorig Universal leaves enough clearance on top for two fans...


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZazzaZ*
> 
> Call me nuts but I want all my fans to be the same and plugged to a fan controller. It's not just that i "feel the need to fill every fan space" but the setup I described above has worked just fine for me over the years. Anyway F140MP are pwm and difficult to find where I live and *Corsair fans have more or less the same performances but are queiter*, which is important for me.


Anyone who has used both of those fans will flatly tell you that statement is absolutely incorrect on both levels.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZazzaZ*
> 
> But my question is another...if only somebody could give me Enthoo Pro internal measurements to see if Cryorig Universal leaves enough clearance on top for two fans...


Yes, you can use an R1 Universal with top fans. Took about six seconds to find pics of it using Google.


----------



## ZazzaZ

God bless nice people who can google better than me. You think I didn't try googling for images? If I asked here is because i couldn't find an exact answer. Found many pics of Phanteks cases with a Cryorig cooler in it but most of the times it's difficult to understand which cooler is installed in which case. How can you be so sure of what you say in just six seconds?


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZazzaZ*
> 
> God bless nice people who can google better than me. You think I didn't try googling for images? If I asked here is because i couldn't find an exact answer. Found many pics of Phanteks cases with a Cryorig cooler in it but most of the times it's difficult to understand which cooler is installed in which case. How can you be so sure of what you say in just six seconds?


Well.....first because I have had an R1 in a Luxe, which is the same chassis. Second because a Google image search for it shows it clearly.


----------



## ZazzaZ

Well...It's not the same chassis..Luxe .top panel is different from the Pro...that I was asking for...that i was googling for...Enthoo Pro with Cryorig Universal with top fans...possible or not...?


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZazzaZ*
> 
> God bless nice people who can google better than me. You think I didn't try googling for images? If I asked here is because i couldn't find an exact answer. Found many pics of Phanteks cases with a Cryorig cooler in it but most of the times it's difficult to understand which cooler is installed in which case. How can you be so sure of what you say in just six seconds?


Case specificatons google search images and common sense show all too well what coolers fit and what won't.

If you don't want to listen to suggestions based on years of experience and testing go ahead and use your little sailboat logo fans that are almost worthless even at full speed if you want, but you have no idea what you are talking about .. case airflow, cooler compatibility google or otherwise. @ciarlatano is correct and is speaking not from googling the web to see what others say about these cases and fans perform, but from literally 1000s of hours of testing and use. I also make my statements based on same kind of background.


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZazzaZ*
> 
> Well...It's not the same chassis..Luxe .top panel is different from the Pro...that I was asking for...that i was googling for...Enthoo Pro with Cryorig Universal with top fans...possible or not...?


Why do you even ask for help if you're going to deny what everyone's telling you, its the same top panel, just a different plastic cover.

Pro:


Luxe


----------



## ZazzaZ

Well...first time i get into an argument on this forum...or in any other forum for that matter...I don't think I can called a newcomer to this kind of things ...I've been tinkering with and repairing PC for almost 20 years so I think I know my fair share of the business. As I said before I don't have much choices regarding the fans I can buy either because I can't find that particular fan in my country, or it's pwm or too expensive...also I can't tolerate B&W in my pc. I'm not really excited about Corsair fans but these are the only non-pwm fans with sleeved cable, color matching to my liking and affordable price I could find...otherwise I'd go with Noctua industrial but those are too pricey...and I wasn't asking if my cooler would fit...that I already know...I was asking something else...I was asking if Cryorig Universal would leave enough room in the Enthoo Pro in order to install two top fans...that's all...thanks for your kindness...


----------



## ZazzaZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gilles3000*
> 
> Why do you even ask for help if you're going to deny what everyone's telling you, its the same top panel, just a different plastic cover.
> 
> Pro:
> 
> 
> Luxe


In this case I misunderstood what Doyll wrote before...my apologies...


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZazzaZ*
> 
> Well...first time i get into an argument on this forum...or in any other forum for that matter...I don't think I can called a newcomer to this kind of things ...I've been tinkering with and repairing PC for almost 20 years so I think I know my fair share of the business. As I said before I don't have much choices regarding the fans I can buy either because I can't find that particular fan in my country, or it's pwm or too expensive...also I can't tolerate B&W in my pc. I'm not really excited about Corsair fans but these are the only non-pwm fans with sleeved cable, color matching to my liking and affordable price I could find...otherwise I'd go with Noctua industrial but those are too pricey...and I wasn't asking if my cooler would fit...that I already know...I was asking something else...I was asking if Cryorig Universal would leave enough room in the Enthoo Pro in order to install two top fans...that's all...thanks for your kindness...


You don't know as much as you profess about airflow if you think using top exhaust fans on an air cooled system is better than front to back flow .. unless you have a case with motherboard rotated 90 degrees.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZazzaZ*
> 
> In this case I misunderstood what Doyll wrote before...my apologies...


appology accepted.


----------



## ZazzaZ

There are a lot of people out there using my same setup and having excellent OC results...is it possible we're all wrong ?


----------



## THC Butterz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZazzaZ*
> 
> There are a lot of people out there using my same setup and having excellent OC results...is it possible we're all wrong ?


unless you have empirical evidence that you are all right you could all be wrong... only way to tell is with extensive testing with your particular case, different fans designed for different things such as static pressure vs ones designed for air flow can have different results also, point is dont assume just because its what other people do its "the best" for everybody.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZazzaZ*
> 
> There are a lot of people out there using my same setup and having excellent OC results...is it possible we're all wrong ?


There are also a lot of claims from CLC users that their CPUs are below ambient at full load in these forums. In "dead silence".









I don't see the top exhaust fans as "wrong" as much as "without any benefit" in the Pro or Luxe. They aren't likely to help or hinder performance.

Also, do realize that with very few exceptions, PWM fans will run find with voltage control off of the Phanteks hub. I have three F140MP and three F120MP currently connected to it. The F140MP have no issue dropping down under 500 rpm off the hub, and obviously have no issue achieving full speed with a smooth band throughout. I've run a number of different PWM fans off it without issue. We know that the Corsair ML series can't do it, but other than them, never heard of any issues.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> There are also a lot of claims from CLC users that their CPUs are below ambient at full load in these forums. In "dead silence".
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't see the top exhaust fans as "wrong" as much as "without any benefit" in the Pro or Luxe. They aren't likely to help or hinder performance.
> 
> Also, do realize that with very few exceptions, PWM fans will run find with voltage control off of the Phanteks hub. I have three F140MP and three F120MP currently connected to it. The F140MP have no issue dropping down under 500 rpm off the hub, and obviously have no issue achieving full speed with a smooth band throughout. I've run a number of different PWM fans off it without issue. We know that the Corsair ML series can't do it, but other than them, never heard of any issues.


When I first got my Define R2 I experimented with top exhaust with 2x front and 1x bottom intake and 1x rear exhaust TY-140 fans and unused PCIe slot covers removed stress testing both CPU and GPU.. The very back top fan made no difference. Top middle exhaust raised CPU temp 2-4c. If GPU was not working top fans made little to no differnece

I tested this again in my Luxe using PH-F140SP fans with similar results.

Using PWM fans with voltage control is fine for fans with max speed of 1500-1800rpm, but high rpm fans will not idle down very well on variable voltage. Perfect example we saw today with someone using TY-143 2500rpm PWM fans on variable voltage and complaining about them not idling down and beng noisy.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Using PWM fans with voltage control is fine for fans with max speed of 1500-1800rpm, but high rpm fans will not idle down very well on variable voltage. Perfect example we saw today with someone using TY-143 2500rpm PWM fans on variable voltage and complaining about them not idling down and beng noisy.


True, but we are assuming low rpm fans here as @ZazzaZ has stated that the quiet aspect is of major concern. The AF140QE that (for some unknown reason) he intends to replace the stock fans with are 1150rpm max. I was simply pointing out that fans being PWM does not necessarily make them a bad choice for use on the Phanteks hub.


----------



## pez

I have to admit I cringed a little bit seeing that someone thought the Corsair fans were similar in noise to the Phanteks fans







.

Meanwhile, I'm still waiting on the Shift and ultimately deciding if I want to grab a Evolv ITX TG or not







.


----------



## TheAbyss

Hi, the comparison between the top compartments of Luxe and Pro as well as the discussion around top exhaust vs.front to back airflow brought me to the following quesion:

I have a WATERCOOLED Luxe Setup atm with top fan exhaust through a 420 ST30 rad. While temps are OK, I thought about changing top exhaust to top intake. any first Hand experience with top exhaust vs. intake in a watercooled Environment?


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheAbyss*
> 
> Hi, the comparison between the top compartments of Luxe and Pro as well as the discussion around top exhaust vs.front to back airflow brought me to the following quesion:
> 
> I have a WATERCOOLED Luxe Setup atm with top fan exhaust through a 420 ST30 rad. While temps are OK, I thought about changing top exhaust to top intake. any first Hand experience with top exhaust vs. intake in a watercooled Environment?


You are going need to give a lot more detail on your system for anyone to even speculate on this.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheAbyss*
> 
> Hi, the comparison between the top compartments of Luxe and Pro as well as the discussion around top exhaust vs.front to back airflow brought me to the following quesion:
> 
> I have a WATERCOOLED Luxe Setup atm with top fan exhaust through a 420 ST30 rad. While temps are OK, I thought about changing top exhaust to top intake. any first Hand experience with top exhaust vs. intake in a watercooled Environment?


What ciarlatano said.
I can say with a 420 as intake, when system is working hard case air temps will be 10+c warmer than room.


----------



## TheAbyss

Understood, front intake 240 ST30 rad, , 980TI and I7 6700k un-delidded. Top exhaust 420 ST30 (all fans are NB eloop). Delta T on idle is 3-4 degrees, Delta-t on gaming is 10 degrees.
on idle: case temp behind tray about 3 deg, above intake temp; back exhaust temp about 2 degrees above intake temp.. from the top of my head


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheAbyss*
> 
> Understood, front intake 240 ST30 rad, , 980TI and I7 6700k un-delidded. Top exhaust 420 ST30 (all fans are NB eloop). Delta T on idle is 3-4 degrees, Delta-t on gaming is 10 degrees.
> on idle: case temp behind tray about 3 deg, above intake temp; back exhaust temp about 2 degrees above intake temp.. from the top of my head


So you have 2x intake in front with 4x exhaust on top and 1x exhaust in back? That is 5x exhaust fans to 2x intakes with added resistance of front filter and case grill ... very unbalanced. 2x front intake match 2x top exhaust .. where is intake air for other 2x top and 1x rear exhaust fans supposed to come from?

Read 5th topic in 'Ways to Better Cooling' link in my sig.


----------



## TheAbyss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> So you have 2x intake in front with 4x exhaust on top and 1x exhaust in back? That is 5x exhaust fans to 2x intakes with added resistance of front filter and case grill ... very unbalanced. 2x front intake match 2x top exhaust .. where is intake air for other 2x top and 1x rear exhaust fans supposed to come from?
> 
> Read 5th topic in 'Ways to Better Cooling' link in my sig.


Ok, reading from your " ways to better cooling," the idea to reconfigure to top intake would actually make sense.. as you say that a good intake fan does not necessarily Need an equivalent exhaust to match.. Other idea I had was to add a single 120/140 rad with intake at the bottom, balancing the current Setup a bit.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheAbyss*
> 
> Ok, reading from your " ways to better cooling," the idea to reconfigure to top intake would actually make sense.. as you say that a good intake fan does not necessarily Need an equivalent exhaust to match.. Other idea I had was to add a single 120/140 rad with intake at the bottom, balancing the current Setup a bit.


Re-read this and pay attention to all the statements about balancing intake and exhaust areas to optimize flow.:
Airflow is simply displacement; for air to come into case, air must be leaving case .. or .. for air to leave the case, air must be coming into case.
Think of the air around us as water and we are divers in it and a sunken van is a computer case.

We can't move more water into the van (case) through an open window (vent) unless we have another open window (vent) somewhere else in the van (case) moving the same amount of water (air) out through a window on other side of van (case).
We can't take any water out of van unless we have the same amount of water coming in at the same time.
This means we have to have as many open windows flowing water into van as we have open windows flowing water out.
This is exactly how airflow works. Intake fan pushing / flowing air into case is pushing / flowing the same amount of air out of case.
Adding an exhaust fan can help case airflow, same as adding a back fan on some coolers.
But with good case intake fans we don't need exhaust fans, same as good cooler / radiator fans don't need pull fans. wink.gif
This is why I used to always change stock intake fans. Now some cases are finally coming with intake fans that have high enough pressure ratings to not need 'helper' (exhaust) fans.

We need at least as much vent area for air to exhaust / leave the case as we have vent are with fans bringing air into case .. and if exhasut vents do not have fans we need about 1.5 times as much exhaust area as intake with fans. If you switch top to intake all you have accomplished is reversing the unbalanced airflow problem you now have and made it even worse with 6x intakes and only the back as exhaust.

As a guess I'll suggest switching top and front, so the back and front are exhaust with top intake. How well it will work depends on where the heated air goes when it comes out of case .. that it does not circle up and back into the top intake.


----------



## Amhro

Swap'd the NF-S12-1200 for the Phanteks case fan, removed 2 GPU back slot covers.
Removing front panel does not change anything.
Here are the temps during PUBG, just horrible (card already throttling at 94°C).
Btw not sure if those spikes in usage are because of bad game optimalization or gpu dying











Help


----------



## pez

Sounds like that card's cooler is not seated or the GPU fans are dead/not spinning fast enough.


----------



## swunder

Hi everyone - new Phanteks Evolve mATX TG owner! Just put together a new build -

Can anyone help me with some basic airflow recommendations? Right now my only intake is a 240mm CPU rad (AIO) pulling in the front. Phanteks 140mm exhaust in the back and top. Kinda seems like the CPU is basically blowing hot air right onto my GTX 1080. Would the CPU rad be better as exhaust at the top and then have a 140mm (or two) be intake in the front?

CPU temps are good but the 1080 gets up to 82C, I assume because its surrounded by hot air.

Intel 6850k (4.2g)
Gigabyte X99M-Gaming-5
EVGA GTX 1080 ACX
16 GB G.SKILL Ripjaws 4 DDR4 3000
Phanteks Enthoo Evolv mATX Black

Couple quick pics --





Thanks!


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *swunder*
> 
> Hi everyone - new Phanteks Evolve mATX TG owner! Just put together a new build -
> 
> Can anyone help me with some basic airflow recommendations?
> CPU temps are good but the 1080 gets up to 82C, I assume because its surrounded by hot air.
> 
> Thanks!



Move the CLC to the top (as exhaust) and cover the remaining holes around the radiator to prevent warmer air from getting back in, you can use black cardboard and black masking tape to do this pretty cheaply and it won't be that noticeable.
Move the two 140mm fans that came with the case to the front.
Remove the 2 PCIe slot cover below the GPU


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *swunder*
> 
> Hi everyone - new Phanteks Evolve mATX TG owner! Just put together a new build -
> 
> Can anyone help me with some basic airflow recommendations? Right now my only intake is a 240mm CPU rad (AIO) pulling in the front. Phanteks 140mm exhaust in the back and top. Kinda seems like the CPU is basically blowing hot air right onto my GTX 1080. Would the CPU rad be better as exhaust at the top and then have a 140mm (or two) be intake in the front?
> 
> CPU temps are good but the 1080 gets up to 82C, I assume because its surrounded by hot air.
> 
> Intel 6850k (4.2g)
> Gigabyte X99M-Gaming-5
> EVGA GTX 1080 ACX
> 16 GB G.SKILL Ripjaws 4 DDR4 3000
> Phanteks Enthoo Evolv mATX Black
> 
> Couple quick pics --


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gilles3000*
> 
> 
> Move the CLC to the top (as exhaust) and cover the remaining holes around the radiator to prevent warmer air from getting back in, you can use black cardboard and black masking tape to do this pretty cheaply and it won't be that noticeable.
> Move the two 140mm fans that came with the case to the front.
> Remove the 2 PCIe slot cover below the GPU


What @Gilles3000 said. How do you expect the GPU to run cool when you are literally giving it no cool air to work with?


----------



## ride1226

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Amhro*
> 
> 
> 
> Swap'd the NF-S12-1200 for the Phanteks case fan, removed 2 GPU back slot covers.
> Removing front panel does not change anything.
> Here are the temps during PUBG, just horrible (card already throttling at 94°C).
> Btw not sure if those spikes in usage are because of bad game optimalization or gpu dying
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Help


I have told my buddy this a few times... Don't use PUBG as your benchmark for temps. That games is so terribly optimized. It literally runs your graphics card to 100% usage just in the main menu. I don't know if this is a bug on their end or not but I always try my best to get out of the menu as quick as possible and into a game where gpu usage and temps do drop somewhat. Any other game on ultra puts my 1080 between 50-70% usage and 10-20* cooler.


----------



## Khr1s

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *swunder*
> 
> Hi everyone - new Phanteks Evolve mATX TG owner! Just put together a new build -
> 
> Can anyone help me with some basic airflow recommendations? Right now my only intake is a 240mm CPU rad (AIO) pulling in the front. Phanteks 140mm exhaust in the back and top. Kinda seems like the CPU is basically blowing hot air right onto my GTX 1080. Would the CPU rad be better as exhaust at the top and then have a 140mm (or two) be intake in the front?
> 
> CPU temps are good but the 1080 gets up to 82C, I assume because its surrounded by hot air.
> 
> Intel 6850k (4.2g)
> Gigabyte X99M-Gaming-5
> EVGA GTX 1080 ACX
> 16 GB G.SKILL Ripjaws 4 DDR4 3000
> Phanteks Enthoo Evolv mATX Black
> 
> Thanks!


Hi friend, really awesome build! Can you please measure the left side panel for me? I want to buy one TG to change the panel from the original Evolv. Also if you can, measure the distance between the two hinges?


----------



## swunder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Khr1s*
> 
> Hi friend, really awesome build! Can you please measure the left side panel for me? I want to buy one TG to change the panel from the original Evolv. Also if you can, measure the distance between the two hinges?


Converted from inches --


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *swunder*
> 
> Converted from inches --


Phanteks Customer Support told me they can
Quote:


> Right now the cases that are interchangeable with the non-TG and TG panels are the P400(s), and Evolv ATX.


9 August 2017 - 4:55 PM.


----------



## opt33

Phanteks pro m SE with tempered glass looks really nice with lot of great features. I hope they make a Phanteks pro full tower SE with same look/new features/tempered glass side panel...with the extra space for top rad clearance. Im not a fan of the inconvenience or aesthetics of covering mobo with top rad/fans required by smaller midtowers, nor the bulk/weight of most full towers. The pro at ~21x21 inches was perfect size for convenient building, exchanging ram/cpu/mobo in 20 mins, plus aesthetics for my taste.


----------



## Amhro

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pez*
> 
> Sounds like that card's cooler is not seated or the GPU fans are dead/not spinning fast enough.


Well, without side panel, GPU does not exceed 70°C, I don't think this is the issue.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ride1226*
> 
> I have told my buddy this a few times... Don't use PUBG as your benchmark for temps. That games is so terribly optimized. It literally runs your graphics card to 100% usage just in the main menu. I don't know if this is a bug on their end or not but I always try my best to get out of the menu as quick as possible and into a game where gpu usage and temps do drop somewhat. Any other game on ultra puts my 1080 between 50-70% usage and 10-20* cooler.


You are right, in other games it does not get so hot, but still...


----------



## brian0128

I have been researching the Luxe and the Primo for my 7900X build. I just sent the 7900X to get delidded at Silicon Lottery to help with temps since I will be using a 280 AIO with it. I was planning on setting it up similar to my 7700K build.

Phanteks Luxe, 2 140 PH-F140SP on the front, 1 PH-140SP on the bottom, 280mm AIO on top and block off extra space with cover, 120 GPU AIO top rear, remove extra PCIe covers. That's 3 fans in, and 3 out. Will that be enough incoming air since the exhaust is slowed down by the radiators? I feel like I can't use a 360mm rad on top because I won't have enough incoming with the 3 140's to keep positive pressure. Should I get a 4th fan and install 2 on the bottom if it will fit with the power supply?

Build Components I already own or purchased: 7900X delidded by Silicon lottery for help with temperatures, Corsair 64GB Dominator 16x4, EVGA 1080ti SC2 Hybrid (120mm rad) 1st slot, Asus Essence STX Sound Card 3rd slot, 280 AIO for CP, EVGA SuperNOVA 1000.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brian0128*
> 
> I have been researching the Luxe and the Primo for my 7900X build. I just sent the 7900X to get delidded at Silicon Lottery to help with temps since I will be using a 280 AIO with it. I was planning on setting it up similar to my 7700K build.
> 
> Phanteks Luxe, 2 140 PH-F140SP on the front, 1 PH-140SP on the bottom, 280mm AIO on top and block off extra space with cover, 120 GPU AIO top rear, remove extra PCIe covers. That's 3 fans in, and 3 out. Will that be enough incoming air since the exhaust is slowed down by the radiators? I feel like I can't use a 360mm rad on top because I won't have enough incoming with the 3 140's to keep positive pressure. Should I get a 4th fan and install 2 on the bottom if it will fit with the power supply?
> 
> Build Components I already own or purchased: 7900X delidded by Silicon lottery for help with temperatures, Corsair 64GB Dominator 16x4, EVGA 1080ti SC2 Hybrid (120mm rad) 1st slot, Asus Essence STX Sound Card 3rd slot, 280 AIO for CP, EVGA SuperNOVA 1000.


NF-S12-1200 are not any good in my opinion. They have very low static pressure rating .. like about 1.0mm at full speed maximum.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brian0128*
> 
> I have been researching the Luxe and the Primo for my 7900X build. I just sent the 7900X to get delidded at Silicon Lottery to help with temps since I will be using a 280 AIO with it. I was planning on setting it up similar to my 7700K build.
> 
> Phanteks Luxe, 2 140 PH-F140SP on the front, 1 PH-140SP on the bottom, 280mm AIO on top and block off extra space with cover, 120 GPU AIO top rear, remove extra PCIe covers. That's 3 fans in, and 3 out. Will that be enough incoming air since the exhaust is slowed down by the radiators? I feel like I can't use a 360mm rad on top because I won't have enough incoming with the 3 140's to keep positive pressure. Should I get a 4th fan and install 2 on the bottom if it will fit with the power supply?
> 
> Build Components I already own or purchased: 7900X delidded by Silicon lottery for help with temperatures, Corsair 64GB Dominator 16x4, EVGA 1080ti SC2 Hybrid (120mm rad) 1st slot, Asus Essence STX Sound Card 3rd slot, 280 AIO for CP, EVGA SuperNOVA 1000.


Luxe comes with 3x 140mm fans that have PH-F140SP like motor and housing with MP like impeller now for over a year now. These as 2x front and 1x bottom intakes will do a very good job.


----------



## nycgtr

Primo is a great case just a bit dated. Unless your willing to take a dremel to it, it won't look as up to date with current case trends. Excellent case though. Having torn one apart build quality is much higher than what phantkes pumps out now aside from the elite.


----------



## redshoulder

So to confirm with the evolv matx can the original left panel be changed to TG panel?


----------



## dr1337

Does anyone know if Phanteks has 3D models of their cases?

Planning on getting the Shfit (non-X) and cramming two 120mm radiators in a closed loop using an Alphacool Eisbaer and Eiswolf for CPU and GPU respectively.


----------



## jpm888

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dr1337*
> 
> Does anyone know if Phanteks has 3D models of their cases?
> 
> Planning on getting the Shfit (non-X) and cramming two 120mm radiators in a closed loop using an Alphacool Eisbaer and Eiswolf for CPU and GPU respectively.


From the pictures, you can only fit one 120radiator
The shift x can handle a 280 rad


----------



## Khr1s

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Phanteks Customer Support told me they can
> 9 August 2017 - 4:55 PM.


Yes but this is the mATX version of the Evolv case, I will measure mine original Evolv mATX and we will see:thumb:

Brian fron Phanteks told me this:

Quote:


> The size of the glass panels are the same. However the curve at the front has been modified to match the change in the front panel. So unless you change both sides, each side will be different. Also the mounting screws for the glass have been moved towards the front so the case will also need to be modified for the screws to recess into the chassis to allow the door to close fully.
> In the end the amount of work required to have the panel fit is quite extensive however it is possible.
> If you would like to order the panel(s) you would need to send the email request to [email protected] for North and South America or [email protected] for anywhere else.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Khr1s*
> 
> Yes but this is the mATX version of the Evolv case, I will measure mine original Evolv mATX and we will see:thumb:


You seem to be ignoring what Phanteks Customer Support said:
Quote:


> Right now the cases that are interchangeable with the non-TG and TG panels are the P400(s), and Evolv ATX.


9 August 2017 - 4:55 PM.
So I'll say it too:
_"Right not the only cases that non-tempered glass and tempered glass panels are interchangeable on are P400(s) and Evolv ATX."_


----------



## Khr1s

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> You seem to be ignoring what Phanteks Customer Support said:
> 9 August 2017 - 4:55 PM.
> So I'll say it too:
> _"Right not the only cases that non-tempered glass and tempered glass panels are interchangeable on are P400(s) and Evolv ATX."_


Sorry but you confused me. So we (me and redshoulder) have the Evolv mATX not the ATX version.
In your first reply, you said *that we can*, but afterwards you quoted Phanteks Customer Support saying that right now the panels are interchangeable only on the P400(s_ and Evolv ATX.

Then I posted what a Phanteks employee told me :
Quote:


> The size of the glass panels are the same. However the curve at the front has been modified to match the change in the front panel. So unless you change both sides, each side will be different. Also the mounting screws for the glass have been moved towards the front so the case will also need to be modified for the screws to recess into the chassis to allow the door to close fully.
> In the end the amount of work required to have the panel fit is quite extensive however it is possible.
> If you would like to order the panel(s) you would need to send the email request to [email protected] for North and South America or [email protected] for anywhere else.


Now you are saying that I am ingoring them, but why ?







Anyway sorry for the misunderstanding









Finally I took the dimensions of the windowed side panel of my case (Evolv mATX) and they are exactly the same. Now the only issue is how different is the curve and what's the cost of the Tempered Glass Side Panel.


----------



## Spork13

Well, I've done a (very) rough transfer of PC from Entho Pro to Entho Evolv ATX TG.
I got a 'phone call to work this afternoon part way throough, so it really is just thrown in there to get it working for now.
I'll spend some time tidying up cables etc. over the coming weeks,

First impressions:
The glass and aluminium look nice. That was the whole reason for the new case.
Not sold on the partially exposed PSU. Could be worse. I have the EVGA G2 so it's pretty understated and doesn't look too bad. might grow on me.
SSD's are mounted on the back of the MB.
I would have mounted my 2 x SSD + HDD all in the little bays front bottom if they were configured to do that. plenty of space there, but could be more flexible. My SSDs are non-matching (Good samsung 250gb for OS, cheap Crucial 1tb for storage) so they aren't something I prefer to make a feature of. I may yet move the crucial to the bay with the HDD as I have a sata cable there anyway.

When I built in the Pro I found the case super easy to work with. The only fiddly bit was the PSU shroud that was a tight fit due to slight misalignment of one of the screw holes.
That case also had shortcomings - to mount a 3rd 140mm fan in front required some modding, and it also lacked good accommodation for 2 x ssd + 1 x hdd in the supplied bays.

I did love the tool-less design. 4 thumbscrews to remove top, sides and front panels.
The Evolv is a step backwards from that, IMO. The mounting system for the glass sides seems like an afterthought rather than Phanteks usual well designed features. Would it have been that difficult to have a front hings similar to my Pro? Or at least captive thumbscrews? Or even just some rare earth magnets?

Anyway, that is my first impression. I still have a lot of work to do to get this looking nice, so will see how that goes.


----------



## pez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jpm888*
> 
> From the pictures, you can only fit one 120radiator
> The shift x can handle a 280 rad


The Shift can fit 2 120mm radiators, but when fitting two, you're supposedly unable to fit anything bigger than the standard 25-27mm thick rad.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Khr1s*
> 
> Sorry but you confused me. So we (me and redshoulder) have the Evolv mATX not the ATX version.
> In your first reply, you said *that we can*, but afterwards you quoted Phanteks Customer Support saying that right now the panels are interchangeable only on the P400(s_ and Evolv ATX.
> 
> Then I posted what a Phanteks employee told me :
> Now you are saying that I am ingoring them, but why ?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anyway sorry for the misunderstanding
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally I took the dimensions of the windowed side panel of my case (Evolv mATX) and they are exactly the same. Now the only issue is how different is the curve and what's the cost of the Tempered Glass Side Panel.


Sorry for the misunderstanding, but what I said was:
"Phanteks Customer Support told me *they* can"
Quote:


> Right now the cases that are interchangeable with the non-TG and TG panels are the P400(s), and Evolv ATX.


9 August 2017 - 4:55 PM.

*They* refers to Phantek and *can* refers to Evolv ATX and P400 case can interchange TG for metal side panels. In 20/20 hindsight I should have added 'supply TG side panels for Evolv ATX and P400 cases' after 'can'.


----------



## capitaltpt

Does anyone know if the RGB cables on the Glacier GPU blocks can be daisy chained with other blocks and possibly the Halos? Trying to figure out if I can use 1 Aura header or if I need to get the Silverstone hub.


----------



## lapper13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gilles3000*
> 
> 
> Move the CLC to the top (as exhaust) and cover the remaining holes around the radiator to prevent warmer air from getting back in, you can use black cardboard and black masking tape to do this pretty cheaply and it won't be that noticeable.
> Move the two 140mm fans that came with the case to the front.
> Remove the 2 PCIe slot cover below the GPU


After you move your rad to the top as exhaust and close off the gaps so it's not sucking hot air back into the case, you'll want to mod the top of that case. Heat dissipated from the rad will struggle to eject that hot air out of the top of the case, since it has very restricted air flow. At a minimum, unscrew the top, rip out the mesh and just lay the top back into the case. Leaves a nice gap to increase airflow.
I have the same case and am looking for a local machine shop to remove as much of the aluminum as possible on the front and top panels.


----------



## Spork13

The EVOLV ATX TG is growing on me...
A Bbit (maybe ~10 hours of cable management!) more work and I think I'll be very happy with the result.

>>>_Edited. I googled the answer, as I probably should have to start with_<<<

I've wired in the Phanteks RGB and I like the results.
Not as bright as my previous single colour (white) case lighting, or perhaps it's a combination of the tinted tempered glass and light positioning in the case. That's not a bad thing anyway, they give enough light to highlight certain features, but dim enough to hide wiring etc. when I need to.
Speaking of positioning - I LOVE the magnetic feature of these lights! With minimum fuss I can position and reposition them until I'm happy.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lapper13*
> 
> After you move your rad to the top as exhaust and close off the gaps so it's not sucking hot air back into the case, you'll want to mod the top of that case. Heat dissipated from the rad will struggle to eject that hot air out of the top of the case, since it has very restricted air flow. At a minimum, unscrew the top, rip out the mesh and just lay the top back into the case. Leaves a nice gap to increase airflow.
> I have the same case and am looking for a local machine shop to remove as much of the aluminum as possible on the front and top panels.


/\ /\ this /\ /\
Here is a quick guide to Evolv ATX top "conversion" from screwed on to clipped on as well as blocking openings in radiator bracket.

Here is details about top vent airflow area


----------



## lapper13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> /\ /\ this /\ /\
> Here is a quick guide to Evolv ATX top "conversion" from screwed on to clipped on as well as blocking openings in radiator bracket.
> 
> Here is details about top vent airflow area


And my ghetto mod for front panel:
Used the foam that encased the case in the box.
Used the foam and the longer screws to build out the front panel.
Thought about painting foam black to be less noticeable, but this is just temporary so no paint.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lapper13*
> 
> And my ghetto mod for front panel:
> Used the foam that encased the case in the box.
> Used the foam and the longer screws to build out the front panel.
> Thought about painting foam black to be less noticeable, but this is just temporary so no paint.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Did you check temps wiht and without your foam spacer?
Or with front cover on and off?
My experience is it make little difference .. maybe 3c with front off versus on .. and spacing was maybe 1-2c difference .. not enough for me to keep front spaced out. I much prefer the looks of case without front spacer.


----------



## nycgtr

Test fitting. Work in progress..


----------



## lapper13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Did you check temps wiht and without your foam spacer?
> Or with front cover on and off?
> My experience is it make little difference .. maybe 3c with front off versus on .. and spacing was maybe 1-2c difference .. not enough for me to keep front spaced out. I much prefer the looks of case without front spacer.


No, I wasn't diligent with pre and post testing of mods. Was in a semi panic when stress temps climbed into the mid 90s, so I did every mod I could think of. I removed the front and top panels for a bit, while I researched alternatives. I had no idea this case had airflow issues when I bought it, so I probably went overboard with the front panel
Even with the panels removed, my overclocked 7700k was still hitting the 90s with prime95.

My delid took care of my temp concerns, so I may put the front panel back to original for aesthetics; especially since your testing didn't show a big improvement.

Still going to mod the top panel and debating swiftech h320 x2 prestige vs custom loop for a better cooling solution than the h115i that I wish I hadn't bought.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lapper13*
> 
> No, I wasn't diligent with pre and post testing of mods. Was in a semi panic when stress temps climbed into the mid 90s, so I did every mod I could think of. I removed the front and top panels for a bit, while I researched alternatives. I had no idea this case had airflow issues when I bought it, so I probably went overboard with the front panel
> Even with the panels removed, my overclocked 7700k was still hitting the 90s with prime95.
> 
> My delid took care of my temp concerns, so I may put the front panel back to original for aesthetics; especially since your testing didn't show a big improvement.
> 
> Still going to mod the top panel and debating swiftech h320 x2 prestige vs custom loop for a better cooling solution than the h115i that I wish I hadn't bought.


Yeah, H115 is over-hyped .. like all CLCs are. H320 X2 is much better, or H280 X2. If memory serves the differnce is minimal and either one probably has more cooling ability than needed. Ask @ciarlatano about it. He is a 'wet-head/almost born again air-head with lots of experience using both and has Evolv ATX build.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Yeah, H115 is over-hyped .. like all CLCs are. H320 X2 is much better, or H280 X2. If memory serves the differnce is minimal and either one probably has more cooling ability than needed. Ask @ciarlatano about it. He is a 'wet-head/almost born again air-head with lots of experience using both and has Evolv ATX build.


On a CPU only system the 280 and 320 are essentially identical in most cases. BUT, in the Evolv ATX the 320 is far easier to isolate so tends to perform a bit better.


----------



## lapper13

Stil
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> On a CPU only system the 280 and 320 are essentially identical in most cases. BUT, in the Evolv ATX the 320 is far easier to isolate so tends to perform a bit better.


I still can't find the 320 prestige for sale anywhere


----------



## lapper13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Did you check temps wiht and without your foam spacer?
> Or with front cover on and off?
> My experience is it make little difference .. maybe 3c with front off versus on .. and spacing was maybe 1-2c difference .. not enough for me to keep front spaced out. I much prefer the looks of case without front spacer.


Just tried to get rid of foam spacers; original short screws won't bite in to threads on front panel...they just spin now. Wonder if the longer screws I used for spacers stripped them out. Guess I'm keeping spacers and spray painting the foam.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lapper13*
> 
> Just tried to get rid of foam spacers; original short screws won't bite in to threads on front panel...they just spin now. Wonder if the longer screws I used for spacers stripped them out. Guess I'm keeping spacers and spray painting the foam.


If long screws stripped the treads they would't hold either. Sounds to me like your long screws are a different thread and you forced them in and basically re-theaded it mounts.


----------



## lapper13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> If long screws stripped the treads they would't hold either. Sounds to me like your long screws are a different thread and you forced them in and basically re-theaded it mounts.


Well, poop.
I'm surprised I haven't broken more things on my first build.
I briefly contemplated using the RTV I bought (but didn't use) for my delid to get the screws to "fit" again.
This is the type of nonsense going on over here.


----------



## nycgtr

Need to spray the bottom pull out filters again lol. Didn't think they wouldn't sit flush.


----------



## lapper13

Been racking my brain, trying to figure out why I couldn't get my PH140-SP case fans to spin slower then 1200 RPM. Have them plugged into mobo headers and been messing with Q fan settings for weeks.
Finally googled the fans and found this in a write up...they only run at one speed:

"These fans are the Phanteks PH-F140XP, SP, and SP_LED. The SP version is the most basic, *it runs at only one speed* and the only accessory is the extension cable."

Mystery solved.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lapper13*
> 
> Been racking my brain, trying to figure out why I couldn't get my PH140-SP case fans to spin slower then 1200 RPM. Have them plugged into mobo headers and been messing with Q fan settings for weeks.
> Finally googled the fans and found this in a write up...they only run at one speed:
> 
> "These fans are the Phanteks PH-F140XP, SP, and SP_LED. The SP version is the most basic, *it runs at only one speed* and the only accessory is the extension cable."
> 
> Mystery solved.


PH-F140SP are variable voltage control fans and will idle will idle down to 500-550 rpm no problem. Why else did many Phanteks cases using these PH-F140SP fans come with PWM controlled fan hub to vary their speed with lower voltage dependent on system temperatures?

Some motherboard will not allow fans to idle at low speeds until the automatic fan tuning software is ran. Maybe that is why you can't get them to idle down.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lapper13*
> 
> Been racking my brain, trying to figure out why I couldn't get my PH140-SP case fans to spin slower then 1200 RPM. Have them plugged into mobo headers and been messing with Q fan settings for weeks.
> Finally googled the fans and found this in a write up...they only run at one speed:
> 
> "These fans are the Phanteks PH-F140XP, SP, and SP_LED. The SP version is the most basic, *it runs at only one speed* and the only accessory is the extension cable."
> 
> Mystery solved.


Not solved at all. The real mystery is how that fallacy got published. My 140SP all have nice 450-1200 bands with voltage control.


----------



## lapper13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Not solved at all. The real mystery is how that fallacy got published. My 140SP all have nice 450-1200 bands with voltage control.


Just when I think I figured something out...
Maybe I'm messing up some setting in my mobo. Whatever profile I select (silent, turbo, full speed) the fans always run at 1200 ish RPMs.
The fans have 3 pin connectors, which I have plugged into my chassis mobo headers.
Just noticed you mentioned voltage control.
Is that the "DC" tab? I've been selecting PWM in the fan profiles section of my UEFI. Maybe that's what I'm doing wrong...


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lapper13*
> 
> Just when I think I figured something out...
> Maybe I'm messing up some setting in my mobo. Whatever profile I select (silent, turbo, full speed) the fans always run at 1200 ish RPMs.
> The fans have 3 pin connectors, which I have plugged into my chassis mobo headers.
> Just noticed you mentioned voltage control.
> Is that the "DC" tab? I've been selecting PWM in the fan profiles section of my UEFI. Maybe that's what I'm doing wrong...


What MB are you using?


----------



## lapper13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> PH-F140SP are variable voltage control fans and will idle will idle down to 500-550 rpm no problem. Why else did many Phanteks cases using these PH-F140SP fans come with PWM controlled fan hub to vary their speed with lower voltage dependent on system temperatures?
> 
> Some motherboard will not allow fans to idle at low speeds until the automatic fan tuning software is ran. Maybe that is why you can't get them to idle down.


I'm not using the fan hub that came with the case. Maybe I should.
Thought I ran the tuning software, but I'll try again.
I have the h115i fans plugged into the h115i's connectors, which connect into the CPU header.
Then I have the 3 PH140-SP's plugged into the mobo chassis headers.
Corsair Link controls the h115i fans and I thought the mobo would control the chassis fans.

Did I jack up my fan set up?


----------



## lapper13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> What MB are you using?


ASUS Maximus IX Hero


----------



## frunction

On the swift cases, can you flip the GPU to not be looking at what would usually be the top of the card?


----------



## Craiga35

I'm curious to know the spacing between the holes for the grommets on the drop n lock system? I'm looking to add one myself to a different case using screws and rubber grommets so that I can use the phanteks brackets but need to know the spacing, can anyone help me out?

Ideally it would be the same as the bottom mounts of a 2.5" HDD (76.6x61.7 mm) but you never know.


----------



## ErrantPigeon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *redshoulder*
> 
> Just noticed you mentioned voltage control.
> Is that the "DC" tab? I've been selecting PWM in the fan profiles section of my UEFI. Maybe that's what I'm doing wrong...


Yep, DC = direct current, that's used as shorthand for DC voltage. Voltage-controlled fans are set to lower speeds by ramping down the voltage, giving them less juice... so they spin slower.

PWM fans have a forth pin, sending a control signal to the fan to regulate its speed. Since you set them to PWM, your mobo is sending a control signal to the forth empty pin... but leaves the supplied voltage at 12V, so the fan will continue to run at full pace.


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *frunction*
> 
> On the swift cases, can you flip the GPU to not be looking at what would usually be the top of the card?


Iirc, you can flip it so it shows either the cooler side or the pcb/backplate side on the side panel window.


----------



## lapper13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ErrantPigeon*
> 
> Yep, DC = direct current, that's used as shorthand for DC voltage. Voltage-controlled fans are set to lower speeds by ramping down the voltage, giving them less juice... so they spin slower.
> 
> PWM fans have a forth pin, sending a control signal to the fan to regulate its speed. Since you set them to PWM, your mobo is sending a control signal to the forth empty pin... but leaves the supplied voltage at 12V, so the fan will continue to run at full pace.


Ok, ran the fan optimize software in mobo and changed from pwm to dc. Fans finally not running at max, yay!


I set up a manual curve, verified fans still spinning slower, F10 and back into windows.

Here's the curve, in case it's relevant for t shooting:


After applying new settings fans spin while in UEFI, but 2 of my 3 chassis fans stopped spinning entirely when I save, exit and boot into windows. I thought this was great, until I ran prime95 to test.
2 of the 3 chassis fans continued to not spin at all, with stress temps into the 70s.
Any thoughts?

Why do they shut down and stay down when I boot into windows, but run while I'm in the UEFI?


----------



## pez

Yeah, I was beat to the punch. For ASUS BIOS, DC is what you want to use for variable voltage fans (i.e. 3-pin fans) and PWM is for the fans with the actual 4th PWM pin







.

The ASUS BIOS is actually super feature rich, but for a newer builder, it can be a bit overwhelming. As boring as it sounds, you can learn quite a bit from reading through the mobo manual.


----------



## Gorhell

Hi Guys I want to ask if the Noctua DH15 fits perfectly to our Phanteks Evolv ATX TG?


----------



## ErrantPigeon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gorhell*
> 
> Hi Guys I want to ask if the Noctua DH15 fits perfectly to our Phanteks Evolv ATX TG?


Yes, according to the spec sheet, the Evolv ATX TG has 194mm clearance, the NH-D15 is 165mm tall, so plenty of space. Running a NH-D15S in a(non-TG) Evolv ATX myself and there's indeed plenty of space between fan and panel.

Just make sure that the NH-D15 doesn't block the first PCIe slot on your motherboard, otherwise grab the NH-D15S (or move your GPU down).


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gorhell*
> 
> Hi Guys I want to ask if the Noctua DH15 fits perfectly to our Phanteks Evolv ATX TG?


Yes, NH-D15 will fit. Evolv ATX TG has 194mm clearance, the NH-D15 is 165mm tall. ErrantPigeon beat me to it.








Was there a definitive reason for choosing NH-D15? But be careful that it will clear your sockets. D15 is 150mm wide so 75mm center CPU toward PCIe sockets can be too far. D15S will clear. But honestly there are many other coolers just as good often at lower prices.PCIe


----------



## Gorhell

My previous cooler Kraken X52 is on RMA but right now the store and supplier can't provide a replacement so they suggest that I replace the item itself with a different item and the best cooler I can think of was the Noctua, I don't trust AIO anymore now


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gorhell*
> 
> My previous cooler Kraken X52 is on RMA but right now the store and supplier can't provide a replacement so they suggest that I replace the item itself with a different item and the best cooler I can think of was the Noctua, I don't trust AIO anymore now


I understand your distrust of CLC AIOs, but there are a few AIOs that are not CLCs. Most are not available in USA because of Asetek patent of pump on waterblock concept .. meaning anybody making a liquid cooler with pump on waterblock design has to pay royalties to Asetek.

While Noctua have arguable the best customer support they are not the only very good cooler with good mounts and fans .. and good customer support too. Cryorig, be quiet!, Thermalright, Scythe, etc. have equally good coolers and support, sometime even a little better .. and often at lower prices than Noctua.


----------



## Dasboogieman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> I understand your distrust of CLC AIOs, but there are a few AIOs that are not CLCs. Most are not available in USA because of Asetek patent of pump on waterblock concept .. meaning anybody making a liquid cooler with pump on waterblock design has to pay royalties to Asetek.
> 
> While Noctua have arguable the best customer support they are not the only very good cooler with good mounts and fans .. and good customer support too. Cryorig, be quiet!, Thermalright, Scythe, etc. have equally good coolers and support, sometime even a little better .. and often at lower prices than Noctua.


Most of the Noctua price premium is cuz of their high cost fans. Though I'd admit the free mounting brackets for life is pretty nice.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dasboogieman*
> 
> Most of the Noctua price premium is cuz of their high cost fans. Though I'd admit the free mounting brackets for life is pretty nice.


That's your opinion. I think it has more to do with popularity and many people willing to pay over the top for Noctua name so they up the price higher then equal quality and cooling competition. Good old fashion supply and demand principle of price being as much as market will bear. Their fans are no much more than other top tier fans now.

Free mounting brackets for life is offered by most top tier coolers. .. but will be of little to no use if next genreations of CPUs move toward Threadripper TR4 SP3 size socket and IHS.


----------



## Gorhell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> I understand your distrust of CLC AIOs, but there are a few AIOs that are not CLCs. Most are not available in USA because of Asetek patent of pump on waterblock concept .. meaning anybody making a liquid cooler with pump on waterblock design has to pay royalties to Asetek.
> 
> While Noctua have arguable the best customer support they are not the only very good cooler with good mounts and fans .. and good customer support too. Cryorig, be quiet!, Thermalright, Scythe, etc. have equally good coolers and support, sometime even a little better .. and often at lower prices than Noctua.


True but that's the problem, I don't want to spend tons of money for a water cooling solution to be honest, I'm fine with CLC AIO and the good looks it gives me along the Phanteks Evolv ATX TG, and those other cooler you said is same price as Noctua or much higher like Cryorig, but Noctua has the better performance in regards with air cooling. I think Noctua is #1 on that, plus it's cheap plus those other coolers are rare in my country


----------



## nycgtr

Evolv tg + Aio + rgb vomit fans + trident rgb ram = 85% of the omg my build is so awesome builds out there right now. Everytime I see one it's just like okay 0 thought 0 creativity 0 effort.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nycgtr*
> 
> Evolv tg + Aio + rgb vomit fans + trident rgb ram = 85% of the omg my build is so awesome builds out there right now. Everytime I see one it's just like okay 0 thought 0 creativity 0 effort.


You forgot the CLC or loop with only EK parts.


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> You forgot the CLC or loop with only EK parts.


I totally agree with that on the EK only builds. I am one of those people who will use anything except EK for just that reason.


----------



## nycgtr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rfarmer*
> 
> I totally agree with that on the EK only builds. I am one of those people who will use anything except EK for just that reason.


I have their blocks but I don't like their fittings or rads that much.


----------



## Dasboogieman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> That's your opinion. I think it has more to do with popularity and many people willing to pay over the top for Noctua name so they up the price higher then equal quality and cooling competition. Good old fashion supply and demand principle of price being as much as market will bear. Their fans are no much more than other top tier fans now.
> 
> Free mounting brackets for life is offered by most top tier coolers. .. but will be of little to no use if next genreations of CPUs move toward Threadripper TR4 SP3 size socket and IHS.


I agree with them not being top tier anymore. Them fans are absolutely bonkers in price, I can get 2 EK Vardars for the price of a single unit. Like holy hell, $40 AUD for a 120mm? No wonder the D15 costs like $120 over here, more than half the cost was the fans lol, the sink can be completely trash tier and they will still charge that much.

though I'm noticing Deepcool is gaining a lot of traction now, they seem to have dislodged the CM 212 and nobody is touching Noctua for anything other than the D15.


----------



## x3tsniper

The progression continues. The next generation of air cooling has arrived.


----------



## springs113

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *x3tsniper*
> 
> The progression continues. The next generation of air cooling has arrived.


I absolutely love that elite. Best for the totality.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gorhell*
> 
> True but that's the problem, I don't want to spend tons of money for a water cooling solution to be honest, I'm fine with CLC AIO and the good looks it gives me along the Phanteks Evolv ATX TG, and those other cooler you said is same price as Noctua or much higher like Cryorig, but Noctua has the better performance in regards with air cooling. I think Noctua is #1 on that, plus it's cheap plus those other coolers are rare in my country


While you think CLCs are good looking many of us think they are butt with their ugly black snakes (hoses). If you want CLC inferior quality and higher cost with performance similar to top air that's fine. But don't try and justify it by saying it looks better, is good quality, etc.

No, Noctua does not have better performance. That is the point I was trying to make.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dasboogieman*
> 
> I agree with them not being top tier anymore. Them fans are absolutely bonkers in price, I can get 2 EK Vardars for the price of a single unit. Like holy hell, $40 AUD for a 120mm? No wonder the D15 costs like $120 over here, more than half the cost was the fans lol, the sink can be completely trash tier and they will still charge that much.
> 
> though I'm noticing Deepcool is gaining a lot of traction now, they seem to have dislodged the CM 212 and nobody is touching Noctua for anything other than the D15.


Like I said, companies charge as much as they can get consumer to pay. It is only when sales drop off that prices will come down. You think CLCs look good .. many of us think they are butt ugly with their big black snakes trashing the looks.

DeepCool GamerStorm is owned by same people that own Alpenfohn and they make some good coolers. They even sell some of the same coolers.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> While you think CLCs are good looking many of us think they are butt with their ugly black snakes (hoses).


You don't like the one-size-fits-none look with a side of "dead squid in my case"?


----------



## xTesla1856

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *x3tsniper*
> 
> The progression continues. The next generation of air cooling has arrived.


That Elite is insane. Still debating that or Caselabs after this Enthoo Luxe TG.


----------



## Gorhell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> While you think CLCs are good looking many of us think they are butt with their ugly black snakes (hoses). If you want CLC inferior quality and higher cost with performance similar to top air that's fine. But don't try and justify it by saying it looks better, is good quality, etc.
> 
> No, Noctua does not have better performance. That is the point I was trying to make.
> Like I said, companies charge as much as they can get consumer to pay. It is only when sales drop off that prices will come down. You think CLCs look good .. many of us think they are butt ugly with their big black snakes trashing the looks.
> 
> DeepCool GamerStorm is owned by same people that own Alpenfohn and they make some good coolers. They even sell some of the same coolers.


So who has the best air cooling performance against Noctua? That's just my opinion that CLC looks good with RGB specially that Kraken, I don't have hate on those custom loop because I like them also, but I don't have the time and glory to do and build them hence also the maintenance so, I chose CLC AIO because they perform ok and looks ok to me. I know nothing beats custom loop.


----------



## Dasboogieman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gorhell*
> 
> So who has the best air cooling performance against Noctua? That's just my opinion that CLC looks good with RGB specially that Kraken, I don't have hate on those custom loop because I like them also, but I don't have the time and glory to do and build them hence also the maintenance so, I chose CLC AIO because they perform ok and looks ok to me. I know nothing beats custom loop.


I went custom loop and never looked back....then ran in to airflow issues with the massively restrictive Primo but that is a story for another time.

The best air cooler is one that has a mounting system that doesnt make me want to punch something lol imo. My fingers aren't as strong or dextrous anymore sadly.


----------



## xTesla1856

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dasboogieman*
> 
> I went custom loop and never looked back....then ran in to airflow issues with the massively restrictive Primo but that is a story for another time.
> 
> The best air cooler is one that has a mounting system that doesnt make me want to punch something lol imo. My fingers aren't as strong or dextrous anymore sadly.


Is the Primo really that bad?


----------



## nycgtr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xTesla1856*
> 
> Is the Primo really that bad?


No it's not. It's not restrictive at all. I have no issues with temps watercooled before and after I gutted it. Primo is a watercooling case for anyone who ran it aircooled then that's their failure to understand the case. I see many air cooled builds of it where there is 0 intake at the bottom which is necessary for proper airflow.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gorhell*
> 
> So who has the best air cooling performance against Noctua? That's just my opinion that CLC looks good with RGB specially that Kraken, I don't have hate on those custom loop because I like them also, but I don't have the time and glory to do and build them hence also the maintenance so, I chose CLC AIO because they perform ok and looks ok to me. I know nothing beats custom loop.


Look at AIOs that are not CLCs. Best is Swiftech Hxx X2 series. Next best are Alphacool Eibaer, be quiet! Silent Loop, Fractal Design Kelvin. All have copper radiators, proper fittings, fill plug, etc. so you can keep them working for many years, and if something does go bad you can replace that component. That's the difference between the wanna-be-water cooling CLC coolers and real water cooling.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xTesla1856*
> 
> Is the Primo really that bad?


I built in a Primo .. as have many others. This is the very first complaint I've heard saying it has bad airflow. That's not saying it can't be improved, but it's not bad. I think almost all commercial cases need at least some TLC to improve their airlfow and cooling ability.


----------



## Dasboogieman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Look at AIOs that are not CLCs. Best is Swiftech Hxx X2 series. Next best are Alphacool Eibaer, be quiet! Silent Loop, Fractal Design Kelvin. All have copper radiators, proper fittings, fill plug, etc. so you can keep them working for many years, and if something does go bad you can replace that component. That's the difference between the wanna-be-water cooling CLC coolers and real water cooling.
> I built in a Primo .. as have many others. This is the very first complaint I've heard saying it has bad airflow. That's not saying it can't be improved, but it's not bad. I think almost all commercial cases need at least some TLC to improve their airlfow and cooling ability.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xTesla1856*
> 
> Is the Primo really that bad?


From the perspective of a HAF 932 which i came from, the Primo is reasonably restrictive.
Its not terrible but it needs some work to assist the airflow if you max out all the rad mounting points and need silent 800rpm fan operation. The bottom 480 rad in particular can raise the internal case temperature substantially if there isn't good ventilation.

Im currently in the process of modding the stock mesh panels to a less restrictive hex mesh. If that doesn't work imma have to remove some rads at the front.

I might try to take out the acrylic side and replace it with some kind of hex mesh but no idea if i can get some kind of side fan mounting system going.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nycgtr*
> 
> No it's not. It's not restrictive at all. I have no issues with temps watercooled before and after I gutted it. Primo is a watercooling case for anyone who ran it aircooled then that's their failure to understand the case. I see many air cooled builds of it where there is 0 intake at the bottom which is necessary for proper airflow.


Agreed. I tested the Primo in just about every way possible and found no issue with it being restrictive. But....i suppose if you use every available space for rads it would be, as would any other case. The rads would be the restrictive part. So....not the case, but the what has been added to the case that is the problem.


----------



## ExcellentAmp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> I built in a Primo .. as have many others. This is the very first complaint I've heard saying it has bad airflow. That's not saying it can't be improved, but it's not bad. I think almost all commercial cases need at least some TLC to improve their airlfow and cooling ability.


This^^. The airflow can be improved. Information and testing provided by @doyll led me to elevating the case to promote better intake through the bottom. I have a full custom watercooled loop with 480's in the top and bottom cooling two 980ti's and a 6600k. Once I elevated the case, my gpu temps dropped from the low to mid 50's to the low to mid 40's under gaming load. The primo is a phenomenal case for watercooling especially given it's modest price tag compared to other cases with similar radiator capacity. Just my opinion though:thumb:


----------



## Gorhell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Look at AIOs that are not CLCs. Best is Swiftech Hxx X2 series. Next best are Alphacool Eibaer, be quiet! Silent Loop, Fractal Design Kelvin. All have copper radiators, proper fittings, fill plug, etc. so you can keep them working for many years, and if something does go bad you can replace that component. That's the difference between the wanna-be-water cooling CLC coolers and real water cooling.
> I built in a Primo .. as have many others. This is the very first complaint I've heard saying it has bad airflow. That's not saying it can't be improved, but it's not bad. I think almost all commercial cases need at least some TLC to improve their airlfow and cooling ability.


Like I said I don't want to invest time on custom loop and such, I want something like plug and play as I have no means of doing maintenance and other things in my PC. That's why i settle for CLC AIO and Air cooling.


----------



## weyburn

Hey Guys, I have a p400s, and I'm looking at getting new case fans. I got an asus motherboard, and originally I was thinking about getting cooler masters master MASTERFAN PRO fans because of its RGB ability, but I'm worried about its cooling ability. If there isn't much difference between them and a premium fan setup, I'd buy them for a little extra asthetics boost, but if it's a big difference in cooling and noise I'd rather get lower noise/temps. But I'm not completely sold on them, and I'm also considering noctua'ing it up, issue there is noctua's fans are ugly AF, and I'd be willing to buy a set of their black/grey line of fans, but idk what would work best. I've had noctua cooler before, and I really enjoyed its low noise compared to its cooling.

Thanks for any help given!


----------



## brian0128

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brian0128*
> 
> I have been researching the Luxe and the Primo for my 7900X build. I just sent the 7900X to get delidded at Silicon Lottery to help with temps since I will be using a 280 AIO with it. I was planning on setting it up similar to my 7700K build.
> 
> Phanteks Luxe, 2 140 PH-F140SP on the front, 1 PH-140SP on the bottom, 280mm AIO on top and block off extra space with cover, 120 GPU AIO top rear, remove extra PCIe covers. That's 3 fans in, and 3 out. Will that be enough incoming air since the exhaust is slowed down by the radiators? I feel like I can't use a 360mm rad on top because I won't have enough incoming with the 3 140's to keep positive pressure. Should I get a 4th fan and install 2 on the bottom if it will fit with the power supply?
> 
> Build Components I already own or purchased: 7900X delidded by Silicon lottery for help with temperatures, Corsair 64GB Dominator 16x4, EVGA 1080ti SC2 Hybrid (120mm rad) 1st slot, Asus Essence STX Sound Card 3rd slot, 280 AIO for CP, EVGA SuperNOVA 1000.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Luxe comes with 3x 140mm fans that have PH-F140SP like motor and housing with MP like impeller now for over a year now. These as 2x front and 1x bottom intakes will do a very good job.


Should I not use the Power Supply shroud so that the fan on the bottom has better airflow or does it not matter? I just got my 7900X back from being delidded at Silicon Lottery and I looked at their QVL and it shows the Arctic Liquid 360 and the Thermaltake Ultimate 360. I haven't purchased a 280mm AIO yet so I was wondering if it was possible to fit the Arctic Liquid 360mm in the top of the case. Phanteks says 65mm to motherboard (I'm assuming that's from the top of the case) and my calculations show 77mm. Does that mean it will only overlap the motherboard by a little bit but still fit?


----------



## brox

Picked up an Enthoo Pro for my first build in a long time and I have to say I am thoroughly impressed. Everything fit with ample room and the cable management is a nice touch. It appears to have plenty of airflow for what I need and my temps have yet to exceed 45C in the case according to speedfan. I of course had to customize it a bit.


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *weyburn*
> 
> Hey Guys, I have a p400s, and I'm looking at getting new case fans. I got an asus motherboard, and originally I was thinking about getting cooler masters master MASTERFAN PRO fans because of its RGB ability, but I'm worried about its cooling ability. If there isn't much difference between them and a premium fan setup, I'd buy them for a little extra asthetics boost, but if it's a big difference in cooling and noise I'd rather get lower noise/temps. But I'm not completely sold on them, and I'm also considering noctua'ing it up, issue there is noctua's fans are ugly AF, and I'd be willing to buy a set of their black/grey line of fans, but idk what would work best. I've had noctua cooler before, and I really enjoyed its low noise compared to its cooling.
> 
> Thanks for any help given!


Those CM Pro fans aren't bad, well if you get the Air Pressure variant, the Balance and Flow variants are useless. Noctua fans aren't worth it at all, don't bother.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gorhell*
> 
> Like I said I don't want to invest time on custom loop and such, I want something like plug and play as I have no means of doing maintenance and other things in my PC. That's why i settle for CLC AIO and Air cooling.


I think you're misunderstanding something, those Maintainable AIO's are plug and play, you don't have to do any maintenance to them if you don't want to. But they're better build than CLC's and *give you the option* to do maintenance to them if required instead of just having to throw them away or wait potentially weeks for an RMA, You can still throw them away or RMA them if you want to though.


----------



## weyburn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gilles3000*
> 
> Those CM Pro fans aren't bad, well if you get the Air Pressure variant, the Balance and Flow variants are useless. Noctua fans aren't worth it at all, don't bother.


Awesome, thanks!


----------



## doyll

Today Phanteks announced new additions to the Glacier Fitting Series including 16mm Fittings, GPU Extenders, T-Splitters, and Adapters.


----------



## TheAbyss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brian0128*
> 
> Should I not use the Power Supply shroud so that the fan on the bottom has better airflow or does it not matter? I just got my 7900X back from being delidded at Silicon Lottery and I looked at their QVL and it shows the Arctic Liquid 360 and the Thermaltake Ultimate 360. I haven't purchased a 280mm AIO yet so I was wondering if it was possible to fit the Arctic Liquid 360mm in the top of the case. Phanteks says 65mm to motherboard (I'm assuming that's from the top of the case) and my calculations show 77mm. Does that mean it will only overlap the motherboard by a little bit but still fit?


The Luxe has a top compartment above the actual Frame that can carry 25mm fans. The 65mm are measured inside the Frame to the Mainboard, so it depends on the mobo heatsinks you have. I use a 30mm 420 rad with 29mm eLoops, no issues. The AIO cooler has 77mm? I do not think it will fit then, but with different screws, and given you still want to run the cooler in push/pull, you can place one row of fans in the compartment above the Frame and the rad with the other row of fans inside the Frame, and it will fit with no issue...


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Today Phanteks announced new additions to the Glacier Fitting Series including 16mm Fittings, GPU Extenders, T-Splitters, and Adapters.


They look really really nice! I think its good quality too.

Where do you think the quality fits in? EK/Bitspower or Alphacool?


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> They look really really nice! I think its good quality too.
> 
> Where do you think the quality fits in? EK/Bitspower or Alphacool?


I haven't used any so can't say. @ciarlatano has their GPU waterblock and said it's good.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> They look really really nice! I think its good quality too.
> 
> Where do you think the quality fits in? EK/Bitspower or Alphacool?


The GPU block is as well made as any other block out there. I like their 1080 block more than the EK. It's very, very nicely made.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> The GPU block is as well made as any other block out there. I like their 1080 block more than the EK. It's very, very nicely made.


So far Phanteks has made and marketed very good products. I have no reason to doubt these new blocks and fittings will be any different.

My only complaint about Phanteks is they have made changes to products and not let us know when or what was changed. Lots of them are minor changes like USB3 instead of USB2, but some like different case fans (which are better fans in my opinion) are in new cases with website and box labels still specing olf fans .. and this change was over a year ago.

About a month ago I noticed some people were getting PH-TC14PE coolers with one piece fins instead of the 2 piece fins and customer support knows nothing about this .. as in is it a change in construction or counterfeit product. I've asked them about it a couple of times but customer support can't get an answer for other departments. We went though this with the new case fans for a year before finally finding out their specifications.









About 10 days ago I finally got a couple of these new 140mm case fans but can't really test them until I get a new test station built. I have done some A/B comparisons of them on coolers and case and they work better than original case fans. On cooler then keep CPU cooler from idle to about 1100rpm and are about same on up to 1300rpm.

Also got a couple of their new Halod Lux RGB fan spacer frames and have been playing with them. Very nice bits of kit for adding lighting!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PriestOfSin*
> 
> 
> 
> Love me some Phanteks cases. I went with Arctic fans again. 4x 140, 1x 120. Anyone have any cable management tips for the P400? I just can't seem to get my GPU cables to look quite right. Really wish there was a cable route like the S340 on the bottom of the PSU shroud. Might have to make one myself.


----------



## PriestOfSin

Love me some Phanteks cases. I went with Arctic fans again. 4x 140, 1x 120. Anyone have any cable management tips for the P400? I just can't seem to get my GPU cables to look quite right. Really wish there was a cable route like the S340 on the bottom of the PSU shroud. Might have to make one myself.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PriestOfSin*
> 
> 
> 
> Love me some Phanteks cases. I went with Arctic fans again. 4x 140, 1x 120. Anyone have any cable management tips for the P400? I just can't seem to get my GPU cables to look quite right. Really wish there was a cable route like the S340 on the bottom of the PSU shroud. Might have to make one myself.


Have you considers using cable combs. Best I know of are made by Mnpctech. They have aluminum ones and carbon fiber ones. I really like the carbon fiber ones.


----------



## PriestOfSin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Have you considers using cable combs. Best I know of are made by Mnpctech. They have aluminum ones and carbon fiber ones. I really like the carbon fiber ones.


Good idea. I have a few, but not enough to make a difference and properly shape the cables. Carbon fiber would look slick.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PriestOfSin*
> 
> Good idea. I have a few, but not enough to make a difference and properly shape the cables. Carbon fiber would look slick.


Mnpctech makes them for different size cable, not the usual one-size-fits-all kind of garbage.
https://mnpctech.com/buy-stealth-cable-combs-for-pcs/24-pin-carbon-fiber-cable-comb.html

The have several different kinds
https://mnpctech.com/?subcats=Y&pcode_from_q=Y&pshort=Y&pfull=Y&pname=Y&pkeywords=Y&search_performed=Y&q=cable+combs&dispatch=products.search

But the carbon fiber and aluminum don't break.


----------



## doyll

Another good way is cable lacing .. using a smaller line and tying a harness that hold cables so they look about the same as when using cable combs. Takes some time but much lower cost then cable combs are.

There are lots of DIY guides on u-tube. Just search for 'cable lasing' and/or 'cable sewing'.


----------



## weyburn

Hello, I have the phanteks p400s.

I bought the 2m phanteks LED strip, and looking at the specs it says 0.42A / 400mm, which adds up to about 2.1A for the whole 2m. My ASUS motherboard RGB header says it has a max capacity of 2A.

I've already connected the 2m LED strip to the case lights, and had no issues with anything. But I've recently purchaesd the Phanteks RGB LED 4 Pin Adapter which connects my motherboards RGB to the cases lightings.

I haven't plugged the connector in yet, but my question is: By connecting the RGB header to my case, will the LED's be lit through the cases power source or powerd through my RGB header which will pull more amps than it should?

side note: I'm also going to be buying a few RGB fans to connect to the RGB header, so if I can figure out if it's pulling amps through the header, then i can cut the strip so it pulls less, and if it'snot then I can use everything and not worry about it.

cuz my thinking is, currently the case has its own 12v power adapter to power its lights, the LED's should be pulling its power from there instead of the header... i just don't want to blow anything if I'm wrong...

Edit 2:

the second step on the manual says to remove the 12v power connector, and I don't think it tells you to plug it back in...







((


----------



## Stelaruk

Hi all, I have a question for the Phanteks p400s case owners. I am hoping someone helpful can tell me the side window dimensions (not the tempered glass, just the normal window panel). I am going to make a "snowblind" type mod for a friend and have a few old LCD monitors of different sizes and would like to start getting one ready while I am waiting for his case to arrive.
Many thanks in advance!


----------



## ExCustoms

I'm searching for Evolv Shift 3d model for my next project. I will be grateful for help







.


----------



## Voodoo411

My computer is old, except the 1080 video card. But I decided to give it a new look with paint job and rigid tubing. Tubing and fittings bought from aliexpress. I'm in middle of put them back toget her. The case is black Enthoo pro. Here's pictures


----------



## FIDDY57

Got my lower loop done in my enthoo elite case. Next the upper loop.
https://i.imgur.com/lLnUbGA.jpg


----------



## FIDDY57

https://i.imgur.com/lLnUbGA.jpg
Leak test of lower loop good to go. Next the upper loop. I love this case


----------



## FIDDY57

Maybe this photo will show. Lol.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Voodoo411*
> 
> My computer is old, except the 1080 video card. But I decided to give it a new look with paint job and rigid tubing. Tubing and fittings bought from aliexpress. I'm in middle of put them back toget her. The case is black Enthoo pro. Here's pictures


Looks good to me. I like white cases. Much easier to see what is inside.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FIDDY57*
> 
> https://i.imgur.com/lLnUbGA.jpg
> Leak test of lower loop good to go. Next the upper loop. I love this case


Looking good!


----------



## Martin778

Guys, I'm considering the Enthoo Luxe Tempered Glass as my new case for watercooling to keep my 7920X away from melting through the socket.
What is the thickest 420 rad I can mount on top?


----------



## nycgtr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Martin778*
> 
> Guys, I'm considering the Enthoo Luxe Tempered Glass as my new case for watercooling to keep my 7920X away from melting through the socket.
> What is the thickest 420 rad I can mount on top?


Why so concerned about thickness? For a pure glass paneled case #1 it won't looked that great to see that MUCH rad on top, #2 performance is hardly enough to justify it these days in terms of additional cost and space.


----------



## nycgtr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FIDDY57*
> 
> 
> Maybe this photo will show. Lol.


I am a little speechless here. While it's impressive that you've made such a massive case look tiny, it seems like a cluster bomb at the same time.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Martin778*
> 
> Guys, I'm considering the Enthoo Luxe Tempered Glass as my new case for watercooling to keep my 7920X away from melting through the socket.
> What is the thickest 420 rad I can mount on top?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nycgtr*
> 
> Why so concerned about thickness? For a pure glass paneled case #1 it won't looked that great to see that MUCH rad on top, #2 performance is hardly enough to justify it these days in terms of additional cost and space.


And I will add....thicker radiators typically offer worse performance than thin at tolerable noise levels. So many users with complete misconceptions on this and how to design a build where the parts are actually complementary and work together. Just the "bigger must be better" mentality run rampant these days.


----------



## Martin778

So guys, what can you advise me? I'm green when it comes to custom loops (had a custom loop last year on a 6950X and HATED it







)

I need to get rid of 350W of heat, on LGA2066 my Kraken X62 is giving up.
The loop will be built for performance, I don't care about how it looks.

What I'm thinking about now is:
- EK Supremacy EVO X99 (cheaper than the standard version and comes pre-assembled for 2011-3 which has the same holes as 2066)
- EK ZMT tubing
- Mayhems Clear coolant
- EK fittings
- EK-DBAY D5 PWM MX - Acetal - incl. pump
- Noctua PPC 2000 fans

And I'm pretty much stuck on what rad to choose, also not sure how 420 will cope with so much heat. Was thinking about EK CE 420 rad.


----------



## nycgtr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Martin778*
> 
> So guys, what can you advise me? I'm green when it comes to custom loops (had a custom loop last year on a 6950X and HATED it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )
> 
> I need to get rid of 350W of heat, on LGA2066 my Kraken X62 is giving up.
> The loop will be built for performance, I don't care about how it looks.
> 
> What I'm thinking about now is:
> - EK Supremacy EVO X99 (cheaper than the standard version and comes pre-assembled for 2011-3 which has the same holes as 2066)
> - EK ZMT tubing
> - Mayhems Clear coolant
> - EK fittings
> - EK-DBAY D5 PWM MX - Acetal - incl. pump
> - Noctua PPC 2000 fans
> 
> And I'm pretty much stuck on what rad to choose, also not sure how 420 will cope with so much heat. Was thinking about EK CE 420 rad.


#1) get a monoblock and not just a cpu block for x299
#2) buying mahems clear coolant is like paying 10x for the price of distilled water. Just use distilled water
#3) don't use EK fittings (espcially compression they are just crappy. Worst compression fittings I've ever used. threw them all out after 2 months for other fittings) and or tubing for that mater. They don't make their own tubing anyway, it just primochill re branded.
#4) I can't say much bad about the pumps. Since they are just d5s, however the need for a pwm signal for it start properly can be annoying.
#5) Given your rad choice you may not need fans that spin that fast, there are better fans for less.
#6) Why get a glass panel case if your loop isn't about looks.
#7) Just a personal imo, go hard line. ZMT tubing can be a total pain to fit into even EK fittings at times just as a tip.

I am not hating on ek. I have plenty of their products. Just look at my pcs. However, fittings and reservoirs from EK are not that great. The pe rads are alright. Rest bleh.


----------



## Martin778

I don't have the tools/skills/time/will to go on hard tubing







What I'm looking for is a rather simple yet powerful loop with less parts the better.
With 'not about the looks' I meant that it doesn't have to be all shiny, anodized fittings, colored coolant etc. but it should not look like it's made of Goodwill found parts.

I'd have to ask if they have any ETA on X299 taichi monoblocks, don't think so as they didn't have an X99 one either.


----------



## nycgtr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Martin778*
> 
> I don't have the tools/skills/time/will to go on hard tubing
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What I'm looking for is a rather simple yet powerful loop with less parts the better.
> With 'not about the looks' I meant that it doesn't have to be all shiny, anodized fittings, colored coolant etc. but it should not look like it's made of Goodwill found parts.
> 
> I'd have to ask if they have any ETA on X299 taichi monoblocks, don't think so as they didn't have an X99 one either.


Not sure if they ever made blocks for asrock boards. As for bending hardline you really just need a heat gun and an insert. You might waste a few feet but it's cheaper than soft tubing if you buy right and lasts a hell of a lot longer if you factor in discoloration etc. I only bought the zmt tubing once and I could barely even fit onto the Ek compression fitting in matching size. After my first time with hardline, now I can pretty much do most simple bends in 1 shot. More complex ones maybe 2-3 tries to get it perfect.


----------



## Jyve

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Martin778*
> 
> I don't have the tools/skills/time/will to go on hard tubing
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What I'm looking for is a rather simple yet powerful loop with less parts the better.
> With 'not about the looks' I meant that it doesn't have to be all shiny, anodized fittings, colored coolant etc. but it should not look like it's made of Goodwill found parts.
> 
> I'd have to ask if they have any ETA on X299 taichi monoblocks, don't think so as they didn't have an X99 one either.


There's nothing wrong with ek compression fittings and zmt tubing. I'm using it currently and they fit just fine. Not too tight, not too loose.

Spend the few bucks for clear coolant. It's a hot topic debate on distilled water and biocides and what they may or may not do to the nickel plating of blocks. It may he fine, but it might not be. I do know that either premixed or concentrate coolant doesn't have an issue. Drop the 12-15 bucks and sleep easy.


----------



## TheAbyss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Martin778*
> 
> So guys, what can you advise me? I'm green when it comes to custom loops (had a custom loop last year on a 6950X and HATED it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )
> 
> I need to get rid of 350W of heat, on LGA2066 my Kraken X62 is giving up.
> The loop will be built for performance, I don't care about how it looks.
> 
> What I'm thinking about now is:
> - EK Supremacy EVO X99 (cheaper than the standard version and comes pre-assembled for 2011-3 which has the same holes as 2066)
> - EK ZMT tubing
> - Mayhems Clear coolant
> - EK fittings
> - EK-DBAY D5 PWM MX - Acetal - incl. pump
> - Noctua PPC 2000 fans
> 
> And I'm pretty much stuck on what rad to choose, also not sure how 420 will cope with so much heat. Was thinking about EK CE 420 rad.


Hello Martin,

just a few comments because I went the same path recently (I bought pre-owned stuff, so brands are mixed):

Enthoo Luxe non-TG
ALC 420 ST30 with NB 14 Eloops (PS or 14-2/3 should be all you need); Rad is fine, If I had the choice I´d go for hardwarelabs which should be available to you in the Netherlands better than for me in Germany...

You don´t want a bigger rad up there, you could put standard fans in the top compartment and fit a 55-60mm rad on top, but that would Limit you in Terms of fan usage, and would not yield much if any benefit.

I have used ALC hardtubes and Fittings, no issues except for the fact the the ALC insert does not fit properly in their own hardtubes... had to us a different brand which worked better. Pump is an ALC VPP655, (D5), Res is a Watercool Tube D5. Next thing i´ll do with the case is a mad to fit a 280 HWLabs Rad in the front.


----------



## Martin778

Mind sharing a picture? Would love to see where and how did you mount the res and pomp.


----------



## TheAbyss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Martin778*
> 
> Mind sharing a picture? Would love to see where and how did you mount the res and pomp.


Sure, I wanted to share the build in the thread anyway.. did not find time until now. Will post some pics at the Weekend latest.


----------



## Voodude

I'm the new owner of a Phanteks Enthoo Luxe tempered glass but I'm not quite a fan yet. I can't get the exterior lights or the power button to work on the case. I've checked the motherboard connections and all the connections present in the case. I can turn on the computer by using the power button on the motherboard. I'm in contact with Phanteks customer support but I was wondering if anyone had any ideas for a quick fix.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Voodude*
> 
> I'm the new owner of a Phanteks Enthoo Luxe tempered glass but I'm not quite a fan yet. I can't get the exterior lights or the power button to work on the case. I've checked the motherboard connections and all the connections present in the case. I can turn on the computer by using the power button on the motherboard. I'm in contact with Phanteks customer support but I was wondering if anyone had any ideas for a quick fix.


Did you check the connections to the IO panel? The wires may have gotten tugged and loosened the plugs.


----------



## Voodude

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Did you check the connections to the IO panel? The wires may have gotten tugged and loosened the plugs.


Yes, everything on the I/O panel works as advertised. I rechecked all the connections for the case lighting and the three connections under the top panel and everything is in order. The light around the power button is working but the button itself does nothing when pressed. I'm guessing the PCB under the top panel is faulty. Thanks for the input.


----------



## GRA-HAM

*Water Cooled Hackintosh.316. 16mmO/D.Stainless Steel tubing*









Hi ya ALL
i hope you dont mind me posting i few photographs here of my watercooled Hackintosh rig its a bit diffrent as i have used 16mm 316 polished stainless steel tubing


----------



## Caunian

Hello everyone,

I've just joined the club and here's my case...


----------



## jimmyz

Finally got my build ready enough to post pics of it. Still got a list of things to do but it's close to done.

Phanteks Enthoo Evolve ATX TG
360+280+140 rads
Crosshair 6 hero with R7 1800X @ 4ghz EK monoblock nickel
32 GB G.Skill tridentZ ram @ 2933 C16 (dual rank?)
2x Vega RX 64 with full cover EK blocks in nickel
250 GB nvme Samsung boot drive, 960GB SanDisk for steam 2 ssds for pics and movies.
All monsoon chaingun fittings and monsoon tubing with 150 mm reservoir.
EK d5 pump.and EK Vardar fans, 3x120 + 3x140.
Corsair RM1000x PSU with full cablemod red and black sleeves

I work at a machine shop and run a CNC mill so the top and front were machined with AMD branding mainly for increased airflow. All other openings are covered to force air through the 360 coming in and exhausted thru the 280 and 140 rads.
Our office manager does embroidery on the side so I had her and her husband make me some black leather covers for the PSU cover as well as a lexan sheet used to cover the wiring in the back. So the lettering is all embroidery.


----------



## GRA-HAM

Nice @ jimmyz well done


----------



## jimmyz

Thx man, I appreciate it.


----------



## nycgtr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jimmyz*
> 
> Finally got my build ready enough to post pics of it. Still got a list of things to do but it's close to done.
> 
> Phanteks Enthoo Evolve ATX TG
> 360+280+140 rads
> Crosshair 6 hero with R7 1800X @ 4ghz EK monoblock nickel
> 32 GB G.Skill tridentZ ram @ 2933 C16 (dual rank?)
> 2x Vega RX 64 with full cover EK blocks in nickel
> 250 GB nvme Samsung boot drive, 960GB SanDisk for steam 2 ssds for pics and movies.
> All monsoon chaingun fittings and monsoon tubing with 150 mm reservoir.
> EK d5 pump.and EK Vardar fans, 3x120 + 3x140.
> Corsair RM1000x PSU with full cablemod red and black sleeves
> 
> I work at a machine shop and run a CNC mill so the top and front were machined with AMD branding mainly for increased airflow. All other openings are covered to force air through the 360 coming in and exhausted thru the 280 and 140 rads.
> Our office manager does embroidery on the side so I had her and her husband make me some black leather covers for the PSU cover as well as a lexan sheet used to cover the wiring in the back. So the lettering is all embroidery.


Like the work put into this. Was this sponsored?


----------



## weyburn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jimmyz*
> 
> Finally got my build ready enough to post pics of it. Still got a list of things to do but it's close to done.
> 
> Phanteks Enthoo Evolve ATX TG
> 360+280+140 rads
> Crosshair 6 hero with R7 1800X @ 4ghz EK monoblock nickel
> 32 GB G.Skill tridentZ ram @ 2933 C16 (dual rank?)
> 2x Vega RX 64 with full cover EK blocks in nickel
> 250 GB nvme Samsung boot drive, 960GB SanDisk for steam 2 ssds for pics and movies.
> All monsoon chaingun fittings and monsoon tubing with 150 mm reservoir.
> EK d5 pump.and EK Vardar fans, 3x120 + 3x140.
> Corsair RM1000x PSU with full cablemod red and black sleeves
> 
> I work at a machine shop and run a CNC mill so the top and front were machined with AMD branding mainly for increased airflow. All other openings are covered to force air through the 360 coming in and exhausted thru the 280 and 140 rads.
> Our office manager does embroidery on the side so I had her and her husband make me some black leather covers for the PSU cover as well as a lexan sheet used to cover the wiring in the back. So the lettering is all embroidery.
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


damn that thing is sexy, how much you selling that for


----------



## jimmyz

Only sponsored by my wallet, I wanted it to look like a sponsored build though. My last few projects were extremely low key. Last was all black with white tubes. It was gonna be an ROG themed build but I changed my mind and went for an AMD theme so it would attract attention at LAN parties and for potential customers.
I'm really not a flashy kind of guy so it was fun making it.


----------



## weyburn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jimmyz*
> 
> Only sponsored by my wallet, I wanted it to look like a sponsored build though. My last few projects were extremely low key. Last was all black with white tubes. It was gonna be an ROG themed build but I changed my mind and went for an AMD theme so it would attract attention at LAN parties and for potential customers.
> I'm really not a flashy kind of guy so it was fun making it.


what kind of lan parties?


----------



## jimmyz

Thanks guys, I do lots of builds for people, I wouldn't sell this one. But I could build a similar rig for under 5k. I'm gonna do something like it for a customer who wants solidworks logo and style. Maybe more work when I get it to a few gatherings.


----------



## weyburn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jimmyz*
> 
> Thanks guys, I do lots of builds for people, I wouldn't sell this one. But I could build a similar rig for under 5k. I'm gonna do something like it for a customer who wants solidworks logo and style. Maybe more work when I get it to a few gatherings.


Well maybe when i'm out of college and start making some real funds i'll have to hire you to build me something, hopefully you're still around then


----------



## Martin778

I got my Enthoo Luxe TG. Have a small issue with it, I have 3x140mm vardars and the 2 front fans connected to the hub on the back, I think the LED controller is also connected to it. The hub is then connected to CPU_FAN1
Every time I adjust the CPU fan speed I get a hard whining noise and the fans seem to stall every few seconds. Is it the LED PWM controller?! I thought it was the pump, but nope.


----------



## dlewbell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Martin778*
> 
> I got my Enthoo Luxe TG. Have a small issue with it, I have 3x140mm vardars and the 2 front fans connected to the hub on the back, I think the LED controller is also connected to it. The hub is then connected to CPU_FAN1
> Every time I adjust the CPU fan speed I get a hard whining noise and the fans seem to stall every few seconds. Is it the LED PWM controller?! I thought it was the pump, but nope.


Do you have the hub connected to the SATA power connector as well? If not, you're probably overloading your CPU_FAN1 header. If it is connected, I have no idea what's wrong. I also don't know what LED controller you're referring to.


----------



## Martin778

Yes, there are 2 SATA power connectors and both are connected. Enthoo Luxe has 2 built in LED strips and a few color presets that you can change by pushing the button on the front.

Also forgot to mention, this is the updated version with 2x 140mm's on front and tempered glass side panel.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Martin778*
> 
> Yes, there are 2 SATA power connectors and both are connected. Enthoo Luxe has 2 built in LED strips and a few color presets that you can change by pushing the button on the front.
> 
> Also forgot to mention, this is the updated version with 2x 140mm's on front and tempered glass side panel.


Does this happen to be an ASUS MB? They sometimes act this way if you don't run the ran tuning in BIOS.


----------



## Martin778

I have an Asrock X299 Taichi. All is good until I start changing the CPU fan speed...


----------



## jimmyz

From the video it sounds like coil whine. I cant imagine why anything would be stressed enough to cause it just with fans and LEDs . Have you tracked down exactly where the sound is coming from? try a different SATA plug?


----------



## Martin778

It indeed sounds like a coil whine, could be a stressed pwm controller.
So far I could only exclude my water pump.


----------



## MkaiL

Here is my build with modded panels:



Specs of my system: Phanteks evolv atx TG / Asus maximus VIII formula / i7 6700k / Evga 1080ti FTW3 / G.skill trident Z 2x8gb 3200mhz / Be Quiet dark rock 3 / Samsung 960 evo 500gb + 850 evo 500gb / 4tb Seagate hdd / Corsair RM850x white

My future plans:
- mdpc-x black/grey/white custom cables
- black bitspower fittings, watercool heatkiller tube res/D5 pump, watercool heatkiller IV pro cpu block, EK gpu block for my FTW3, hwlabs nemesis 360 gts (top) and 280 gtx (front)


----------



## Gdourado

Anyone here has a Shift?
I was thinking about doing an aircooled build in one, but I am not sure how it would handle the temps.
Let's say a triple fan GPU flipped with the backplate against the glass, an i7 with an aircooler and a bottom 140mm intake fan.
Would it give good temps?

Cheers!


----------



## jimmyz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MkaiL*
> 
> Here is my build with modded panels:
> 
> 
> 
> Specs of my system: Phanteks evolv atx TG / Asus maximus VIII formula / i7 6700k / Evga 1080ti FTW3 / G.skill trident Z 2x8gb 3200mhz / Be Quiet dark rock 3 / Samsung 960 evo 500gb + 850 evo 500gb / 4tb Seagate hdd / Corsair RM850x white
> 
> My future plans:
> - mdpc-x black/grey/white custom cables
> - black bitspower fittings, watercool heatkiller tube res/D5 pump, watercool heatkiller IV pro cpu block, EK gpu block for my FTW3, hwlabs nemesis 360 gts (top) and 280 gtx (front)


That looks great, I love the hexagon pattern, it really ties in the style of the case.


----------



## overheatisbad

Hi guys is fan controller in phanteks enthoo pro can work without sata power ?


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *overheatisbad*
> 
> Hi guys is fan controller in phanteks enthoo pro can work without sata power ?


Yes, but if you run more than 3 or 4 stock fans you will likely damage your motherboard fan header.


----------



## TheAbyss

Hi @all,

here are some pictures of my build, modded Luxe non-TG with the following specs:

I7 6700k
MSI Z170 Pro Gaming [email protected] EK Supremacy Evo
EVGA 980TI SC+MOD [email protected] 4
Heatkiller Tube [email protected]
Aquaero 6Pro
Farbwerk

A loot of hand made acrylic sheets, modded sidepanel to see the tube, all SSDs behind Mobo tray. Fully RGB customizable. I hope you like it


----------



## brian0128

I've been debating on a CPU cooler for my SL delidded 7900X in my Luxe TG and decided to go with the Swiftech H240X Prestige to keep my temps in check OC'd at 4.2 on all cores. My plan is to run the Swiftech up top and my EVGA 120 rad for 1080 SC2 Hybrid bottom intake, and 2 Phanteks 140's front intake, 1 top rear exhaust. What should I do with the other 140 fan the case comes with?

If anyone has a better recommendation for fan setup please post up.


----------



## lapper13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lapper13*
> 
> Well, poop.
> I'm surprised I haven't broken more things on my first build.
> I briefly contemplated using the RTV I bought (but didn't use) for my delid to get the screws to "fit" again.
> This is the type of nonsense going on over here.


Does phanteks sell just the front panel for the evolv atx enthoo tempered glass? Stripped out my screw threads and want to put it back to stock position. Can't find "just the panel" on phanteks site.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brian0128*
> 
> I've been debating on a CPU cooler for my SL delidded 7900X in my Luxe TG and decided to go with the Swiftech H240X Prestige to keep my temps in check OC'd at 4.2 on all cores. My plan is to run the Swiftech up top and my EVGA 120 rad for 1080 SC2 Hybrid bottom intake, and 2 Phanteks 140's front intake, 1 top rear exhaust. What should I do with the other 140 fan the case comes with?
> 
> If anyone has a better recommendation for fan setup please post up.


Not sure of clearances, but I possible put the 120 rad for 1080 on back exhaust and used other Phanteks fan as bottom intake. The only component on your 1080 that is cooled by 120 radiator is CPU, so 140mm bottom intake will supply cool air to all the GPU components that are air cooled. Either put venting in the PSU cover or remove it. Personally I would just remove it.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lapper13*
> 
> Does phanteks sell just the front panel for the evolv atx enthoo tempered glass? Stripped out my screw threads and want to put it back to stock position. Can't find "just the panel" on phanteks site.


Yes, you can buy them, just end customer support and email explaining what you want and they will help you sort it out.


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Yes, but if you run more than 3 or 4 stock fans you will likely damage your motherboard fan header.


Well, depends on the fans and the fan header. Soma fans use more power than others and those new fancy Pump and High-Power Headers can provide 2-3A(Maybe even more now?)


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Not sure of clearances, but I possible put the 120 rad for 1080 on back exhaust and used other Phanteks fan as bottom intake. The only component on your 1080 that is cooled by 120 radiator is CPU, so 140mm bottom intake will supply cool air to all the GPU components that are air cooled. Either put venting in the PSU cover or remove it. Personally I would just remove it.


It gets in the way of a clean mount on the 280 there. Also, mounting the GPU's CLC rad down under the PSU shroud gives a nice hiding plce for it and the excess tubing. He is definitely looking at the cleanest install with what he is proposing.


----------



## lapper13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Yes, you can buy them, just end customer support and email explaining what you want and they will help you sort it out.


Awesome!
Thx man


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gilles3000*
> 
> Well, depends on the fans and the fan header. Soma fans use more power than others and those new fancy Pump and High-Power Headers can provide 2-3A(Maybe even more now?)


While true, your generalization of 2-3A headers is less common than my 3-4 fan power limit is.








Most fan amp ratings are running amp rating, not startup amp .. and startup amp is at least 2 and often 3-5 times higher than running amp .. and .. 9 out of 10 motherboard fan headers are rated for 1 amp. Here is Nidec Servo chart for Gentle Typhoon fans.

You have probably seen it, but other probably haven't. Even the 1450rpm GT that is rated 0.049 amp running load draws 0.21 amp startup. That meas a 1 amp header with a 20% saftely margin is 0.8 amp with 4x 1450rpm GTs using 0.84 amp at startup.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> It gets in the way of a clean mount on the 280 there. Also, mounting the GPU's CLC rad down under the PSU shroud gives a nice hiding plce for it and the excess tubing. He is definitely looking at the cleanest install with what he is proposing.


Mounted below will mean everything on GPU except GPU chip will be cooling with pre-heated air .. and if using the stock unvented PSU shroud, the pre-heated airflow will be non-existent.


----------



## rock14

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MkaiL*
> 
> Here is my build with modded panels:
> 
> 
> 
> Specs of my system: Phanteks evolv atx TG / Asus maximus VIII formula / i7 6700k / Evga 1080ti FTW3 / G.skill trident Z 2x8gb 3200mhz / Be Quiet dark rock 3 / Samsung 960 evo 500gb + 850 evo 500gb / 4tb Seagate hdd / Corsair RM850x white
> 
> My future plans:
> - mdpc-x black/grey/white custom cables
> - black bitspower fittings, watercool heatkiller tube res/D5 pump, watercool heatkiller IV pro cpu block, EK gpu block for my FTW3, hwlabs nemesis 360 gts (top) and 280 gtx (front)


That hexagon pattern looks so beautiful! Nice work!


----------



## masterac

hie there, i will be the proud owner of the enthoo elite soon, does anyone have this case ? i got some question, especialy if you watercooled it

mat


----------



## jura11

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Martin778*
> 
> I got my Enthoo Luxe TG. Have a small issue with it, I have 3x140mm vardars and the 2 front fans connected to the hub on the back, I think the LED controller is also connected to it. The hub is then connected to CPU_FAN1
> Every time I adjust the CPU fan speed I get a hard whining noise and the fans seem to stall every few seconds. Is it the LED PWM controller?! I thought it was the pump, but nope.


Hi there

Maybe I'm wrong with that, you shouldn't run or connect PWM or mix PWM and non PWM fans on Phanteks hub there as this can cause issues on longer run

I have never run PWM fans on this Phanteks hub and due this I'm maybe on this one just wrong

Can you try run on this Phanteks hub run only stock Phanteks fans and then try run on this hub again EK Vardar fans, I'm pretty sure these fans pulls more amperage than Phanteks fans

Hope this helps

Thanks, Jura


----------



## FIDDY57

Congrats. You will love this case. Im still working on my dual loop for it. I also will be pulling it all out in a few weeks
To put in a rampage 6 extreme and a 7820x with ek mono block. Its my first custom loop for this but the case is awesome. Will help if i can.


----------



## Melcar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jura11*
> 
> Hi there
> 
> Maybe I'm wrong with that, you shouldn't run or connect PWM or mix PWM and non PWM fans on Phanteks hub there as this can cause issues on longer run
> 
> I have never run PWM fans on this Phanteks hub and due this I'm maybe on this one just wrong
> 
> Can you try run on this Phanteks hub run only stock Phanteks fans and then try run on this hub again EK Vardar fans, I'm pretty sure these fans pulls more amperage than Phanteks fans
> 
> Hope this helps
> 
> Thanks, Jura


I think it would just run the fans on voltage control.


----------



## masterac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FIDDY57*
> 
> Congrats. You will love this case. Im still working on my dual loop for it. I also will be pulling it all out in a few weeks
> To put in a rampage 6 extreme and a 7820x with ek mono block. Its my first custom loop for this but the case is awesome. Will help if i can.


hie,

could you put more picture of your build (multiple angle) ? did put some pump in the area for cable management ? ( on the other side)

where did you put the hard drive ? i plan on puting 6 of them

also tag me next time ahaha lucky i saw your post


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Martin778*
> 
> I got my Enthoo Luxe TG. Have a small issue with it, I have 3x140mm vardars and the 2 front fans connected to the hub on the back, I think the LED controller is also connected to it. The hub is then connected to CPU_FAN1
> Every time I adjust the CPU fan speed I get a hard whining noise and the fans seem to stall every few seconds. Is it the LED PWM controller?! I thought it was the pump, but nope.


Do you mean Enthoo Luxe LED connector or maybe Phanteks LED adapter? Neither one of these should be connected to the PWM fan hub, but should be connected to motherboard RGB LED header on RGB LED compatible motherboard.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jura11*
> 
> Hi there
> 
> Maybe I'm wrong with that, you shouldn't run or connect PWM or mix PWM and non PWM fans on Phanteks hub there as this can cause issues on longer run
> 
> I have never run PWM fans on this Phanteks hub and due this I'm maybe on this one just wrong
> 
> Can you try run on this Phanteks hub run only stock Phanteks fans and then try run on this hub again EK Vardar fans, I'm pretty sure these fans pulls more amperage than Phanteks fans
> 
> Hope this helps
> 
> Thanks, Jura


What Melcar said








PWM fans plugged into Phanteks PWM controlled fan hub will be variable voltage controlled. This means if PWM fans have LEDs they may not function properly .. reason being PWM fans with LEDs on PWM header get constant 12v power to LEDs and internal PWM circuitry. Internal PWM circuitry then sends 12v pulses to fan motor to control speed bases on PWM signal, but LEDs get constant 12v power.


----------



## Martin778

I'm not sure how the connections look like, I only have the two build in LED lights on both sides of the case, the ones you can change the color of with a button on the front panel.
However I don't think these have any PWM? I think they just connect to SATA power, nothing more.

What I do have connected to the hub on the back are 3x 140mm vardars and 2x 140mm stock Phanteks front fans.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Martin778*
> 
> I'm not sure how the connections look like, I only have the two build in LED lights on both sides of the case, the ones you can change the color of with a button on the front panel.
> However I don't think these have any PWM? I think they just connect to SATA power, nothing more.
> 
> What I do have connected to the hub on the back are 3x 140mm vardars and 2x 140mm stock Phanteks front fans.


In your original post you said:
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Martin778*
> 
> I got my Enthoo Luxe TG. Have a small issue with it, I have 3x140mm vardars and the 2 front fans connected to the hub on the back, I think the LED controller is also connected to it. The hub is then connected to CPU_FAN1
> Every time I adjust the CPU fan speed I get a hard whining noise and the fans seem to stall every few seconds. Is it the LED PWM controller?! I thought it was the pump, but nope.


I've underlined the part about LED controller.

LED controller should not be plugged into fan hub.


----------



## Martin778

I thought I did because there are some 3/4 pin connectors connected to each other around the front panel but the stock lighting seems to only draw power from SATA.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Martin778*
> 
> I thought I did because there are some 3/4 pin connectors connected to each other around the front panel but the stock lighting seems to only draw power from SATA.


Whatever, you don't want anything plugged to fan hub that is not just an ordinary 3-pin fan. That will eliminate any possibility for something else on fan hub to be causing problems.


----------



## viperguy212

Anyone with an Evolv keep having their front audio die out?

About a year ago my right channel started to get fuzzy. I contacted support and they shipped me a new front panel. All fixed.... 1 year later (almost exactly) same exact issue.

Anyone else?


----------



## xP_0nex

Still a work in progress, but calling it a day.


----------



## pez

Huh. So the Shift did finally find its way to Newegg. Would definitely love to see more pics as you complete the build.


----------



## xTesla1856

Looking at some of these builds makes me want to whip out the DSLR and take some shots of my Luxe TG







Hopefully I won't be too lazy to do it


----------



## PriestOfSin

Got a few clear cable combs, made an attempt at nice-ifying my cables. I'm tempted to see if I can get an aftermarket USB3.0 front panel connector... the one I've got is black so it blends in pretty well, but I've hated the 3.0 front panel cables from day one.


----------



## pez

Simple and clean. Love it!


----------



## PureBlackFire




----------



## xP_0nex

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pez*
> 
> Huh. So the Shift did finally find its way to Newegg. Would definitely love to see more pics as you complete the build.


It showed up on Newegg a few weeks back for preorders. Guess they probably got stock, mine showed up yesterday.


----------



## PriestOfSin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PureBlackFire*


Slick. I wonder if downgrading the 2x 140 up top to the one fan screws with temps at all? I know when I've got my system rolling at 4k my cat seeks out the top fans to sit on them, since there's so much hot air flying out.

Other than that, I like that the glass panel is a bit smaller this time around, and the PSU basement is one piece. Shame they didn't change the front panel a bit more to allow more airflow. If the P400-TG has a failing, it's the front panel's restrictive airflow.


----------



## eXistencelies

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MkaiL*
> 
> Here is my build with modded panels:
> 
> 
> 
> Specs of my system: Phanteks evolv atx TG / Asus maximus VIII formula / i7 6700k / Evga 1080ti FTW3 / G.skill trident Z 2x8gb 3200mhz / Be Quiet dark rock 3 / Samsung 960 evo 500gb + 850 evo 500gb / 4tb Seagate hdd / Corsair RM850x white
> 
> My future plans:
> - mdpc-x black/grey/white custom cables
> - black bitspower fittings, watercool heatkiller tube res/D5 pump, watercool heatkiller IV pro cpu block, EK gpu block for my FTW3, hwlabs nemesis 360 gts (top) and 280 gtx (front)


Whoa!!! Looks good too.Those panels look almost like an exact copy of mine. Except mine have the holes punched out in the hexagons. Though I am still waiting for it to get back from machine shop. It has been there since Aug 5th and the guy keeps putting it off cause of other work. Supposedly I will have it back this week.


----------



## xP_0nex

Just finished throwing together, havent powered it on yet so who knows if it works.









Specs: Phanteks Evolv Shift, Asus Z97i-Plus, i5 4690k, GTX 980 Hybrid, Kingston 16GB 1866. Corsair H50 "old school", Corsair SF600, Intel m.2 SSD, WD 1TB, all Noctus fans


----------



## nanook

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xP_0nex*
> 
> 
> 
> Just finished throwing together, havent powered it on yet so who knows if it works.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Specs: Phanteks Evolv Shift, Asus Z97i-Plus, i5 4690k, GTX 980 Hybrid, Kingston 16GB 1866. Corsair H50 "old school", Corsair SF600, Intel m.2 SSD, WD 1TB, all Noctus fans


Very cool! Let us know how temps are.


----------



## pez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xP_0nex*
> 
> 
> 
> Just finished throwing together, havent powered it on yet so who knows if it works.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Specs: Phanteks Evolv Shift, Asus Z97i-Plus, i5 4690k, GTX 980 Hybrid, Kingston 16GB 1866. Corsair H50 "old school", Corsair SF600, Intel m.2 SSD, WD 1TB, all Noctus fans


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nanook*
> 
> Very cool! Let us know how temps are.


Yes, this. How are the temps? If I go to the Shift, I'm planning to stick with dual 120 AIOs.


----------



## xP_0nex

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nanook*
> 
> Very cool! Let us know how temps are.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pez*
> 
> Yes, this. How are the temps? If I go to the Shift, I'm planning to stick with dual 120 AIOs.


So here are those requested temps.

Just wanted to point out a few things that should be taken into consideration regarding these temps.
- Both the CPU and GPU are both as STOCK factory clocks. (i5 4690k and EVGA GTX 980 SuperClocked Hybrid)
- The Corsair H50's radiator fan has a max RPM of 1250. (Old one I had laying around from years ago)
- The EVGA GTX 980 SuperClocked Hybrid's radiator fan has a max RPM of 1300.

For the sake of keeping it quick and simple, I decided to run the ROG Realbench as it stresses both CPU and GPU. I ran the stress test set to 30 minutes and memory was set 8GB.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Ambient temps before running the stress test was 22c

The i5 4690k hit a max temp of 100c
The EVGA GTX 980 Hybrid bounced around 79-80c

I am sure my fan speeds play a role in these temps or could just simply be that those AIO 120mm radiators just couldn't cut it. However, doesn't look like I'll be doing any overclocking with this setup.

And for those who care


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Cut and paste from HWMonitor - Value/Min/Max


----------



## nanook

This is helpful. Thanks!
Very toasty! I'm working on a custom loop version of your setup and now I know what to expect...


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xP_0nex*
> 
> So here are those requested temps.
> 
> Just wanted to point out a few things that should be taken into consideration regarding these temps.
> - Both the CPU and GPU are both as STOCK factory clocks. (i5 4690k and EVGA GTX 980 SuperClocked Hybrid)
> - The Corsair H50's radiator fan has a max RPM of 1250. (Old one I had laying around from years ago)
> - The EVGA GTX 980 SuperClocked Hybrid's radiator fan has a max RPM of 1300.
> 
> For the sake of keeping it quick and simple, I decided to run the ROG Realbench as it stresses both CPU and GPU. I ran the stress test set to 30 minutes and memory was set 8GB.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Ambient temps before running the stress test was 22c
> 
> The i5 4690k hit a max temp of 100c
> The EVGA GTX 980 Hybrid bounced around 79-80c
> 
> I am sure my fan speeds play a role in these temps or could just simply be that those AIO 120mm radiators just couldn't cut it. However, doesn't look like I'll be doing any overclocking with this setup.
> 
> And for those who care
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Cut and paste from HWMonitor - Value/Min/Max


Yikes. Like Wyle E. Coyote about to get hit with a boulder type of yikes. The CPU I can understand - old CLC laying around for a few years, probably low on coolant, etc. But, the GPU is concerning. Is airflow in the Shift that bad?


----------



## xP_0nex

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Yikes. Like Wyle E. Coyote about to get hit with a boulder type of yikes. The CPU I can understand - old CLC laying around for a few years, probably low on coolant, etc. But, the GPU is concerning. Is airflow in the Shift that bad?


I thought the GPU temps looked a bit higher than usual for a Hybrid. Double-checked and found out that GPU radiator fan was unplugged the entire time I was running the stress test. Anyway, I re-ran RealBench and the GPU temps is holding at steady at 52c

I don't think airflow is too bad for the case itself. Fresh air comes from the bottom and bottom-front through the radiators and then the 140mm fan draws warm air out through to top-front part of the case (that's how it was shipped so I kept it that way). I would assume if the CPU was de-lidded temps would be much lower than what's being shown here.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xP_0nex*
> 
> I thought the GPU temps looked a bit higher than usual for a Hybrid. Double-checked and found out that GPU radiator fan was unplugged the entire time I was running the stress test. Anyway, I re-ran RealBench and the GPU temps is holding at steady at 52c
> 
> I don't think airflow is too bad for the case itself. Fresh air comes from the bottom and bottom-front through the radiators and then the 140mm fan draws warm air out through to top-front part of the case (that's how it was shipped so I kept it that way). I would assume if the CPU was de-lidded temps would be much lower than what's being shown here.


LOL....well, that would certainly explain it. GPU looks in line and fine. Temps on the CPU might be better if you delidded.....but I would bet that H50 simply isn't working well any longer. Delidding won't help that.


----------



## nanook

52c for GPU is great!
Maybe the front mounting spot airflow is more restrictive than the bottom mounting spot. May be worth switching the radiator locations, and see if the CPU runs cooler?


----------



## xP_0nex

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> LOL....well, that would certainly explain it. GPU looks in line and fine. Temps on the CPU might be better if you delidded.....but I would bet that H50 simply isn't working well any longer. Delidding won't help that.


Could be that this old school H50 isn't cutting it anymore, but not sure I want to take a risk and grab another 120mm AIO just to get the same temps since 27mm is the max thickness.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nanook*
> 
> 52c for GPU is great!
> Maybe the front mounting spot airflow is more restrictive than the bottom mounting spot. May be worth switching the radiator locations, and see if the CPU runs cooler?


The Shift is actually really really tight when it comes to space. I had a really hard time getting both the GPU and CPU AIO's to fit along with the radiator fan. I just went along with how Phanteks had it mounted within their marketing materials as I figured they'd know what works best. Also, the front does have pretty big openings so I don't think that's the issue.

Could just be an old H50, 120mm AIO's with 27mm thickness not cutting it, Haswell running hot in general, or need some higher rpm fans. Lots of variables to think about, but not sure I want to take a gamble with another AIO just to get a few c's lower.


----------



## nanook

I agree that it's very tight space-wise. I couldn't really fit 2x 120mm HWL radiators without scrapping up the paint on the radiators (actually too late... the rads have exposed brass corners and edges now. The Phanteks black powder coat held up much better than the HWL paint).


----------



## pez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xP_0nex*
> 
> I thought the GPU temps looked a bit higher than usual for a Hybrid. Double-checked and found out that GPU radiator fan was unplugged the entire time I was running the stress test. Anyway, I re-ran RealBench and the GPU temps is holding at steady at 52c
> 
> I don't think airflow is too bad for the case itself. Fresh air comes from the bottom and bottom-front through the radiators and then the 140mm fan draws warm air out through to top-front part of the case (that's how it was shipped so I kept it that way). I would assume if the CPU was de-lidded temps would be much lower than what's being shown here.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> LOL....well, that would certainly explain it. GPU looks in line and fine. Temps on the CPU might be better if you delidded.....but I would bet that H50 simply isn't working well any longer. Delidding won't help that.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xP_0nex*
> 
> Could be that this old school H50 isn't cutting it anymore, but not sure I want to take a risk and grab another 120mm AIO just to get the same temps since 27mm is the max thickness.
> The Shift is actually really really tight when it comes to space. I had a really hard time getting both the GPU and CPU AIO's to fit along with the radiator fan. I just went along with how Phanteks had it mounted within their marketing materials as I figured they'd know what works best. Also, the front does have pretty big openings so I don't think that's the issue.
> 
> Could just be an old H50, 120mm AIO's with 27mm thickness not cutting it, Haswell running hot in general, or need some higher rpm fans. Lots of variables to think about, but not sure I want to take a gamble with another AIO just to get a few c's lower.


You should be able to give the H60 a try. That should do the trick I would think. Currently in the Ncase I'm running between 50-60C on both CPU and GPU while gaming (though i7 is now delidded).


----------



## overheatisbad

I put sata power + cpu fan header on phanteks enthoo pro fan controller. Look like other than cpu fan running at full speed. Is that normal ? Or it can be controlled ?


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pez*
> 
> You should be able to give the H60 a try. That should do the trick I would think. Currently in the Ncase I'm running between 50-60C on both CPU and GPU while gaming (though i7 is now delidded).


Or, replace the H50 with an intake fan and go with a Cryorig C1 for the same money. That would free up some space and untangle the web of tubing with similar performance and less noise if the airflow is adequate.


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Or, replace the H50 with an intake fan and go with a Cryorig C1 for the same money. That would free up some space and untangle the web of tubing with similar performance and less noise if the airflow is adequate.


I think the Cryorig C1 is a little close to the side panel, 8mm(according to the specs) isn't a lot of breathing room. Maybe the Raijintek Pallas(14mm clearance), the new Noctua NH-L12S(12mm clearance but with a bottom mounted fan) or even the Scythe Big Shuriken Rev.B(24mm clearance, 21mm with a better fan) could be better choices.

I think the Noctua would look pretty nice with the fan hidden below the heatsink.


----------



## TheFightin

Hey guys, need some insight from people that have used the enthoo evolv. The case officially supports E-ATX motherboards up to 264mm in length. I've heard some people have surpassed that with the Rampage V Extreme motherboard which comes in at 272mm. I'm not sure if those individuals had to modify the case at all.

That brings me to my question, the motherboard (x399 Prime) I want is 269mm. Will this be a snug fit, or should I look elsewhere on a case?


----------



## havoc764

Question from a Enthoo luxe owner here.

I am currently planning on building a custom loop and was wondering if anyone has managed to squeeze a pump/res combo unit into the back resevoir space. (the one below the back fan, next to the gpu)


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *havoc764*
> 
> Question from a Enthoo luxe owner here.
> 
> I am currently planning on building a custom loop and was wondering if anyone has managed to squeeze a pump/res combo unit into the back resevoir space. (the one below the back fan, next to the gpu)


Shorter units will fit. Its a little tough to work with, but not awful.


----------



## havoc764

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Shorter units will fit. Its a little tough to work with, but not awful.


I figure it was going to be a tight squeeze, but all other options pretty much invole removing the 3.5inch HDD cages and i dont quite want to do that just yet.
And i think it might be the cleanest way of building the system assuming i am going for a single 420mm radiator for now.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *havoc764*
> 
> I figure it was going to be a tight squeeze, but all other options pretty much invole removing the 3.5inch HDD cages and i dont quite want to do that just yet.
> And i think it might be the cleanest way of building the system assuming i am going for a single 420mm radiator for now.


There is a reservoir mount that affixes to the side of the cages included with the case.


----------



## owcraftsman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *havoc764*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Shorter units will fit. Its a little tough to work with, but not awful.
> 
> 
> 
> I figure it was going to be a tight squeeze, but all other options pretty much invole removing the 3.5inch HDD cages and i dont quite want to do that just yet.
> And i think it might be the cleanest way of building the system assuming i am going for a single 420mm radiator for now.
Click to expand...

@havoc764 Try one of these it's what I use works fantastic and a clean look.


----------



## havoc764

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> There is a reservoir mount that affixes to the side of the cages included with the case.


I know, but i doubt i have the space there because of the gpu of mu asus 1080ti.
But if i cant get it to fit on the back unit, i will look into that next.


----------



## havoc764

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *owcraftsman*
> 
> @havoc764 Try one of these it's what I use works fantastic and a clean look.


Completely peronsal opinion, but i never found bay res to look attractive in any way.
And they also have a tendency to make more noise.

Moreover if i manage to fit it in the back slot the reservoir and pump will be the lowest point in the loop, which will make filling and draining a lot easier.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *havoc764*
> 
> I know, but i doubt i have the space there because of the gpu of mu asus 1080ti.
> But if i cant get it to fit on the back unit, i will look into that next.


Measure. Unless you are using an XSPC Photon, it will likely fit. Remember that the waterblock will only be the size of, or slightly larger than the PCB. The card may be shorter with the block on.


----------



## pez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Or, replace the H50 with an intake fan and go with a Cryorig C1 for the same money. That would free up some space and untangle the web of tubing with similar performance and less noise if the airflow is adequate.


I've seen the C1 be used in NCASE builds and even with people shrouding an intake fan to give direct airflow to the C1, it doesn't outperform the H60. Stock vs. stock, it's definitely going to win on the noise-front, though.

I've been happily using my H60 with a Phanteks F120MP and noise is very minimal...and performance much better than the current pancake coolers available. I'd rather use air cooling, but everything that fits (for me) is currently out of production or has other caveats that make them dealbreakers.


----------



## nikdnymis

My main and current setup.

i7 6700k ([email protected])
Maximus viii hero z170
Galax kfa2 gtx1080 exoc
Corsair hx1200i (unfortunately does not appear







)
Corsair h100i with stock fans
Corsair [email protected] mhz ram
Samsung 850 pro 512gb (hackintosh)
Samsung 850 evo 256gb (windows)
Seagate 1tb hdd (games)
Lg 34um69b-g [email protected]
Logitech g410, g533, mx master and g900 with mx air's dock








And MacBook Pro 13" early 2015.


----------



## kevindd992002

That seems to be a very clean environment


----------



## petmic10

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nikdnymis*
> 
> My main and current setup.
> 
> i7 6700k ([email protected])
> Maximus viii hero z170
> Galax kfa2 gtx1080 exoc
> Corsair hx1200i (unfortunately does not appear
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )
> Corsair h100i with stock fans
> Corsair [email protected] mhz ram
> Samsung 850 pro 512gb (hackintosh)
> Samsung 850 evo 256gb (windows)
> Seagate 1tb hdd (games)
> Lg 34um69b-g [email protected]
> Logitech g410, g533, mx master and g900 with mx air's dock
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And MacBook Pro 13" early 2015.


Very nice setup!


----------



## nikdnymis

kevindd992002 and petmic10

thanks a lot. i think some modification about case's front panel and to see psu.


----------



## DsupremeR

Hey guys, I have a question. I have recently acquired the Phanteks Enthoo Pro M Special Edition Tempered Glass. With it came two stock 3-pin PH-F140MP_BK 1200RPM fans. With my planned setup, the chassis has room for 5 140mm fans; 1 rear, 2 top and 2 front. I plan to acquire three additional retail 4-pin PH-F140MP 1600RPM fans. My thoughts were to put 2 retail 140MP in front as intake, 1 retail 140MP in rear as exhaust and 2 stock 140MP on top.

Would you guys do anything differently?

Perhaps flip the top as intake as well or even buy the SP or XP fans instead of the MP fans?


----------



## masterac

My turn, i sold my kidney for this.

Phantek enthoo elite
Amd 1950x
Asus zenith
64 go ddr4 quad chanel 3600mhz
Samsung m.2 960 pro 2 to
1080 ti (still dont know wich one to get..last poece of my build)
Custom ekwb watercooled with 3 radiator
2 x 10 to western red
2 x 8 to western red
1 x 5 to western red
1 x 6 to wedtern red

Corsair Ax1500i

2x aoc 27" 2560x1440 165hz g-sync
1x aoc 35" 3440x1440 100hz g-sync

Logitech mx master 2s

3 x Logitech brio
Rode microphone nt1 kit
Scarlett2 18i20


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DsupremeR*
> 
> Hey guys, I have a question. I have recently acquired the Phanteks Enthoo Pro M Special Edition Tempered Glass. With it came two stock 3-pin PH-F140MP_BK 1200RPM fans. With my planned setup, the chassis has room for 5 140mm fans; 1 rear, 2 top and 2 front. I plan to acquire three additional retail 4-pin PH-F140MP 1600RPM fans. My thoughts were to put 2 retail 140MP in front as intake, 1 retail 140MP in rear as exhaust and 2 stock 140MP on top.
> 
> Would you guys do anything differently?
> 
> Perhaps flip the top as intake as well or even buy the SP or XP fans instead of the MP fans?


I'd keep the 2 stock fans up front and just place 1 retail 140MP as exhaust, you don't need that much exhaust.


----------



## DsupremeR

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gilles3000*
> 
> I'd keep the 2 stock fans up front and just place 1 retail 140MP as exhaust, you don't need that much exhaust.


So you recommend the retail MP140 over the SP or XP for exhaust and the MP for intake over the SP or XP with this chassis?


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DsupremeR*
> 
> Hey guys, I have a question. I have recently acquired the Phanteks Enthoo Pro M Special Edition Tempered Glass. With it came two stock 3-pin PH-F140MP_BK 1200RPM fans. With my planned setup, the chassis has room for 5 140mm fans; 1 rear, 2 top and 2 front. I plan to acquire three additional retail 4-pin PH-F140MP 1600RPM fans. My thoughts were to put 2 retail 140MP in front as intake, 1 retail 140MP in rear as exhaust and 2 stock 140MP on top.
> 
> Would you guys do anything differently?
> 
> Perhaps flip the top as intake as well or even buy the SP or XP fans instead of the MP fans?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gilles3000*
> 
> I'd keep the 2 stock fans up front and just place 1 retail 140MP as exhaust, you don't need that much exhaust.


Completely agree with @Gilles3000. No need for top fans at all.

And, yes, as noted many, many times here, the MP is a nice improvement over the SP/XP.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *masterac*
> 
> My turn, i sold my kidney for this.
> 
> Phantek enthoo elite
> Amd 1950x
> Asus zenith
> 64 go ddr4 quad chanel 3600mhz
> Samsung m.2 960 pro 2 to
> 1080 ti (still dont know wich one to get..last poece of my build)
> Custom ekwb watercooled with 3 radiator
> 2 x 10 to western red
> 2 x 8 to western red
> 1 x 5 to western red
> 1 x 6 to wedtern red
> 
> Corsair Ax1500i
> 
> 2x aoc 27" 2560x1440 165hz g-sync
> 1x aoc 35" 3440x1440 100hz g-sync
> 
> Logitech mx master 2s
> 
> 3 x Logitech brio
> Rode microphone nt1 kit
> Scarlett2 18i20


When you recover enough to start getting it together, post some pics! Sounds like it's going to be an awesome build! well.....except for that whole "all EK" thing....a lot cooler components around to put in such a high end case.


----------



## DsupremeR

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Completely agree with @Gilles3000. No need for top fans at all.
> 
> And, yes, as noted many, many times here, the MP is a nice improvement over the SP/XP.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Completely agree with @Gilles3000. No need for top fans at all.
> 
> And, yes, as noted many, many times here, the MP is a nice improvement over the SP/XP.


Thanks for corroborating, the MP fans it is.

I forgot to mention that I use an air-CPU-cooler (Be.quiet: Dark Rock Pro 3) so the top fans still won't matter much in this setup and would possibly cause negative pressure if I got that correct from what I can understand.

One last question:
Do you also recommend the 3-pins low RPM stock 140MP fans @ciarlatano, or will I see an improvement if I swap the 2 stock fans for 4-pins high RPM 140MP retail fans?

The thing is in my enthusiasm I had ordered 3x140MP fans, but it was on backorder. I should still be able to cancel it though and just order 1 of them if I won't see an improvement in sound and performance.


----------



## springs113

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> When you recover enough to start getting it together, post some pics! Sounds like it's going to be an awesome build! well.....except for that whole "all EK" thing....a lot cooler components around to put in such a high end case.


I just did and it was totally worth it. One thing to note, check your riser cable as mine had issues, waiting on my replacement from PHANTEKS. They do know of it having issues as well.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *springs113*
> 
> I just did and it was totally worth it. One thing to note, check your riser cable as mine had issues, waiting on my replacement from PHANTEKS. They do know of it having issues as well.


I recently bought a Li-Heat riser cable and have been testing it for close to a week now. I haven't really had problems with it and it seems to be of good quality. What problems were you encountering with your Phanteks riser cable?


----------



## springs113

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> I recently bought a Li-Heat riser cable and have been testing it for close to a week now. I haven't really had problems with it and it seems to be of good quality. What problems were you encountering with your Phanteks riser cable?


it was causing post issues, and when it did post it would crash at the windows splash screen. If it pass the windows splash, it would randomly go black.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DsupremeR*
> 
> Hey guys, I have a question. I have recently acquired the Phanteks Enthoo Pro M Special Edition Tempered Glass. With it came two stock 3-pin PH-F140MP_BK 1200RPM fans. With my planned setup, the chassis has room for 5 140mm fans; 1 rear, 2 top and 2 front. I plan to acquire three additional retail 4-pin PH-F140MP 1600RPM fans. My thoughts were to put 2 retail 140MP in front as intake, 1 retail 140MP in rear as exhaust and 2 stock 140MP on top.
> 
> Would you guys do anything differently?
> 
> Perhaps flip the top as intake as well or even buy the SP or XP fans instead of the MP fans?


The 2x stock case fans as front intakes are probably all the case fans you need. When we have good intake fans, exhaust fans are generally not needed. It's like doing push /pull on a cooler or radiator . 1c maybe 2c with push/pull vs just push. Here's a link to thread of a guy starting out planing to use all kinds of fans and by the time he's done he only has intakes and good temps. You can skip down to about post #19 to see what he did. The posts after that give temps with different fan combinations and what he ends up with.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DsupremeR*
> 
> So you recommend the retail MP140 over the SP or XP for exhaust and the MP for intake over the SP or XP with this chassis?


Here is some data I found about PH-F140MP (same performance as new case fans up to 1200rpm) and PH-F140XP


You can see how the MP moves more air than XP through Hardware Info's airflow test station and through radiator.


----------



## DsupremeR

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> The 2x stock case fans as front intakes are probably all the case fans you need. When we have good intake fans, exhaust fans are generally not needed. It's like doing push /pull on a cooler or radiator . 1c maybe 2c with push/pull vs just push. Here's a link to thread of a guy starting out planing to use all kinds of fans and by the time he's done he only has intakes and good temps. You can skip down to about post #19 to see what he did. The posts after that give temps with different fan combinations and what he ends up with.
> Here is some data I found about PH-F140MP (same performance as new case fans up to 1200rpm) and PH-F140XP
> 
> You can see how the MP moves more air than XP through Hardware Info's airflow test station and through radiator.


Thanks for your answer @doyll and supporting datachart and thanks as well to @Gilles3000 and @ciarlatano for replying as well.

I now have enough info to make my decision and spend the money on other parts. Thanks again everyone!

PS. @doyll you mentioned a link to a post #19, but there doesn't seem to be an actual link your message. Thanks again!


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DsupremeR*
> 
> . @doyll you mentioned a link to a post #19, but there doesn't seem to be an actual link your message. Thanks again!


Sorry about that.








http://www.overclock.net/t/1638660/options-to-replace-stock-intake-fans-and-improve-general-air-flow/0_20


----------



## eXistencelies

Here is a sneak peek at my modded panels for my Evolv TG. The front panel (not shown) is the exact same pattern as the top. I should be getting the picture of the front here soon. I will update once I have it.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eXistencelies*
> 
> Here is a sneak peek at my modded panels for my Evolv TG. The front panel (not shown) is the exact same pattern as the top. I should be getting the picture of the front here soon. I will update once I have it.


Very nice!


----------



## eXistencelies

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Very nice!


Can't wait to put them on tomorrow.


----------



## doyll

I have someone interested in having me build a water cooled Enthoo Pro M TG. Is there room in top for 280 radiator with an optical drive in 5.25 bay? I suspect it will depend on how deep the optical drive is. If nobody has done this could someone measure from front face (where optical drive would flush up with case front) to back of case.
Thanks!


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> I have someone interested in having me build a water cooled Enthoo Pro M TG. Is there room in top for 280 radiator with an optical drive in 5.25 bay? I suspect it will depend on how deep the optical drive is. If nobody has done this could someone measure from front face (where optical drive would flush up with case front) to back of case.
> Thanks!


If no one gets you actual dimensions, I'd assume there is, as only the front 360 is listed as incompatible with the 5.25"bays. (Edit: After actually looking at the case again, a top 360 would definitely be incompatible with it too, yet it isn't listed as so, so its probably still good to check for the 280)

Alternatively you could ask the person you're building it for if they'd consider an external ODD, which would leave you with even more water cooling potential.


----------



## dlewbell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> I have someone interested in having me build a water cooled Enthoo Pro M TG. Is there room in top for 280 radiator with an optical drive in 5.25 bay? I suspect it will depend on how deep the optical drive is. If nobody has done this could someone measure from front face (where optical drive would flush up with case front) to back of case.
> Thanks!


I don't think it's going to work. I looked through PCPartpicker.com for CLC builds in the Pro M or Evolv ATX to get an idea of what kind of space exists. I found a Pro M build with a DVD drive & an H100i v2 (240mm) top mounted. It doesn't look like you'll have an extra 40mm to go up to a 280mm radiator. If you found a radiator with a small end cap & removed the rear fan you may be able to squeeze it in, but I wouldn't bet my money on it.
https://pcpartpicker.com/b/3PfH99


Spoiler: Photo







Edit: So, I kept looking, & found one with an H110i GTX and a DVD drive. It apparently can be done., but is a very tight fit.
https://pcpartpicker.com/b/MJYrxr


Spoiler: Photo


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gilles3000*
> 
> If no one gets you actual dimensions, I'd assume there is, as only the front 360 is listed as incompatible with the 5.25"bays. (Edit: After actually looking at the case again, a top 360 would definitely be incompatible with it too, yet it isn't listed as so, so its probably still good to check for the 280)
> 
> Alternatively you could ask the person you're building it for if they'd consider an external ODD, which would leave you with even more water cooling potential.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dlewbell*
> 
> I don't think it's going to work. I looked through PCPartpicker.com for CLC builds in the Pro M or Evolv ATX to get an idea of what kind of space exists. I found a Pro M build with a DVD drive & an H100i v2 (240mm) top mounted. It doesn't look like you'll have an extra 40mm to go up to a 280mm radiator. If you found a radiator with a small end cap & removed the rear fan you may be able to squeeze it in, but I wouldn't bet my money on it.
> https://pcpartpicker.com/b/3PfH99
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Photo
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Edit: So, I kept looking, & found one with an H110i GTX and a DVD drive. It apparently can be done., but is a very tight fit.
> https://pcpartpicker.com/b/MJYrxr
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Photo


Thanks guys!
+ rep.
Yeah, it's tighter than I like.

I asked him about using an external and he wants on inside. I guess I'll need to get shortest optical drive I can find. For as often as any of us use DVDs an external is all that's needed .. except when I need my external is is usually buried at bottom and very front of drawer I keep it in.


----------



## leops1984

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dlewbell*
> 
> Edit: So, I kept looking, & found one with an H110i GTX and a DVD drive. It apparently can be done., but is a very tight fit.
> https://pcpartpicker.com/b/MJYrxr
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Photo


That's an.... interesting picture. I had a Ryzen build in the planning stages which would have done something similar - Nemesis 280 GTS X-Flow radiator there, with the stock case fans of the Enthoo Pro M converted to serve as radiator fans. (I ended up deferring the whole upgrade since I decided the performance gains from my current rig was insufficient (I would have brought over my current 1070 and water cooled that too.)

Now I'm kind of relieved that I didn't go through with it, since it would have been a bit more challenging than I thought or planned (would have been my first water cooling build)... if I want a Phanteks case with good liquid cooling support _and_ still has an optical bay is there a good alternative? I was thinking the Luxe, but I don't know if it's considered to have aged well as a case design.


----------



## Spork13

My rebuild is (almost) complete.
Initially I was just going to move my workings into the EVOLV TG case.
But of course it's never quite that simple...
Well, at first that's all I did and the result was pleasing enough.
Then I decided i wanted 32 gb of RAM (even though the 16gb I had was ample)
And I decided to get my 4790k delidded.
rather than risk messing up a still expensive CPU I sent it away to be done and borrowed an i5 from a system I was assembling for son's GF. (SGF)

Beind a dumb clumsy frecker I bent some pins, on her MB and on mine...

Mine was still working, but only 1 channel of RAM.

Hers wouldn't POST...

I managed to find a Maximus vii Hero on a local PC (OCAU) forum. (Good z97 MB's aren't easy to find!)
That went into my case with all my gear attached.
The PC I had assembled for SGF got pulled apart and re-done with my old maximus vii Ranger. It has 2 x 8gb sticks, she won't need more in the forseable future, and the pins on it may be fixable...

The custom cables from Cablemods arrived, and so did the alloy cable combs from ebay.
I'm not 100% happy with the way the main 24 pin cable fits, the cutout is too high. I may tinker around or possibly dremmel to make it straight.
I have a backplate coming for my GPU, and I will be making up a brace / support for it.
Other than those small thinks I'm loving the way it all looks.

Photos really don't do it justice.


----------



## PriestOfSin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spork13*
> 
> post


Oh man, that CPU cooler is a thing of beauty.


----------



## doyll

@Spork13s build shows just how nice an air cooled build can look.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PriestOfSin*
> 
> Oh man, that CPU cooler is a thing of beauty.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> @Spork13s build shows just how nice an air cooled build can look.


Agreed. Looks great. Nice and clean. Big change from the tangles of CLC tubing we see all the time.


----------



## nycgtr

Agree nice to see an evolv that looks look like 99% of the others.


----------



## Spork13

Thanks for the positive feedback guys.
I'm a sucker for the look of a nice big HSF.
I love the look of a good hard tubing custom loop too - but CBF building and maintaining one.
CLC don't really do it for me.


----------



## pez

Looks great, Spork! Love that cooler...I love the way that thing looks in the Evolv ITX, too







.

Because why not?


----------



## Spork13

The ITX was what first grabbed my attention with the EVOLV cases, but I couldn't find a x97 MB I liked to fit it.
Your build looks great. I think I also need something to fill part of the void at the front of the case where my HDD's aren't.
I have something in mind that shouldn't interrupt air flow at all, will post pics. when it's done.


----------



## QQryQ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spork13*
> 
> My rebuild is (almost) complete.
> Initially I was just going to move my workings into the EVOLV TG case.
> But of course it's never quite that simple...
> Well, at first that's all I did and the result was pleasing enough.
> Then I decided i wanted 32 gb of RAM (even though the 16gb I had was ample)
> And I decided to get my 4790k delidded.
> rather than risk messing up a still expensive CPU I sent it away to be done and borrowed an i5 from a system I was assembling for son's GF. (SGF)
> ..............................


greate work what did you use to LED your case?

Would like to ask you something
I'm using Rajintek Tisis in Phantek Enthoo Pro (2 stock fans intake + Enermax T.B Silience UCTB14P out) CPU OCed to 4,9 i7700k having around 50-60C in 50% load and full speed set for all fans in BIOS was thinking how to improve temps or stay same with reducing noise lvl (full speed isnt comfortable noise). Do I need to improve airflow? Should I change CPU fans? (sugestions?) or change whole CPU cooler into Thermalight Arrow IB-E Extreme? Would be nice to reduce noise lvl and stay or improve performance of air cooling.

Heres HW Monitor and PC


----------



## Spork13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *QQryQ*
> 
> greate work what did you use to LED your case?


I used the Phanteks RGB LED kit, like this one: https://www.pccasegear.com/products/36903/phanteks-rgb-led-strip-starter-combo-set

I have different fans and cooler, but similar setup (2 x 140mm itake, 2 more on the cooler and 1 as exhaust).
They are loud @ full speed, but they only ever run full speed during benchmarks.
If they ramp up when I'm gaming I don't notice - headphone user.

Just set fan profile so they only spin hard when needed.


----------



## QQryQ

Yea did it but still I can hear it







im using headphone set too but my computer is in room where I sleep and sometimes noise distracting me when I need to go sleep not completly tired


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *QQryQ*
> 
> Yea did it but still I can hear it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> im using headphone set too but my computer is in room where I sleep and sometimes noise distracting me when I need to go sleep not completly tired


Try lowering the fan speed at idle and low load.
For example, my fan curve for both case and CPU are
20% @ 40c
35% @ 55c
60% @ 65c
100% @ 70c
But my system never gets above 65c so never gets above 60% fan speed.









You might want to use settings like this
20% @ 30c
40% @ 40c
70% @ 50c
100% @ 65c

The key is to keep fans at low speed (both case and cooler fans) at speed you don't hear until system starts working harder and increasing heat above 45-55c, then ramp up faster as needed to keep temp between something like 60-70c.


----------



## MkaiL

Hey guys, I recently upgraded to a 1080ti ftw3 and noticed the card started sagging. So I bought the masteraccessory VGA holder, it's intended for certain cooler master cases only but I made it work in my Phanteks evolv atx. Mounted the holder in the back and through the grommet, making it invisible from the front.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MkaiL*
> 
> Hey guys, I recently upgraded to a 1080ti ftw3 and noticed the card started sagging. So I bought the masteraccessory VGA holder, it's intended for certain cooler master cases only but I made it work in my Phanteks evolv atx. Mounted the holder in the back and through the grommet, making it invisible from the front.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> [


Interesting way of supportting up video card. I prefer the cards be supported along side farthest from motherboard.
MNPCtech makes a really nice one.



Video review of installation.





Link to MNPCTech website
https://mnpctech.com/gpu-support-bracket/mnpctech-single-gpu-support-bracket-black.html


----------



## hurricane28

Nice idea but 45 dollars for a metal plate, 2 screws and a piece of rubber...?! That's excessively expensive for something that shouldn't cost more than 10 bucks...

You can get something from a hardware store and paint it yourself and modify if needed for a lot less than half of that price..


----------



## Spork13

I like the stealth support through the grommet. Nice work Mkail.
I'm too tight to buy a support for mine so I bought $3 of 6mm engineering plastic instead an a M6 thread cutter for another $1.00 - should arrive any day now. 2 nuts and 2 washers and some black paint should have the job done. Will post pics.


----------



## doyll

What is/are the front fan/s now being sold in Enthoo Pro? I have an old Luxe and it came with 200mm front fan but I know new ones have 2x 140mm fans in front and 1x 140mm fan in back that look like PH-F140MP fans, but are actually PH-F140SP like housing and motor with an MP like impeller. Phanteks changed this in Luxe like a year ago, but still have not updated their website or box label specifications on most things .. so we have no idea what fans actually in new cases until we open the box or ask other new owners.


----------



## Melcar

The fans I got my my Enthoo Pro (purchased less than a year ago) were a 200m front and a 140mm rear fan. The 140mm is a three pin fan with blades the same shape as the MPs. It runs at about 1100 rpm, a bit slower than the two SPs I have. Since the MP and the SP have similar performance at similar rpm levels I don't really know why they switched them.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Melcar*
> 
> The fans I got my my Enthoo Pro (purchased less than a year ago) were a 200m front and a 140mm rear fan. The 140mm is a three pin fan with blades the same shape as the MPs. It runs at about 1100 rpm, a bit slower than the two SPs I have. Since the MP and the SP have similar performance at similar rpm levels I don't really know why they switched them.


The MP blade actually has a significantly better PQ curve. So, in real world usage, the MP will move more air in most applications.


----------



## Melcar

The MPs are better, but the difference is not HUGE when you compare them at the same speeds. The MPs have a higher max speed, so they are more useful in more situations than the SP (plus they are PWM). Only thing bad about the MPs is that they have tonality issues on their low and high rpm settings (and the crappy "sleeving" Phanteks uses).


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Melcar*
> 
> The fans I got my my Enthoo Pro (purchased less than a year ago) were a 200m front and a 140mm rear fan. The 140mm is a three pin fan with blades the same shape as the MPs. It runs at about 1100 rpm, a bit slower than the two SPs I have. Since the MP and the SP have similar performance at similar rpm levels I don't really know why they switched them.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> The MP blade actually has a significantly better PQ curve. So, in real world usage, the MP will move more air in most applications.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Melcar*
> 
> The fans I got my my Enthoo Pro (purchased less than a year ago) were a 200m front and a 140mm rear fan. The 140mm is a three pin fan with blades the same shape as the MPs. It runs at about 1100 rpm, a bit slower than the two SPs I have. Since the MP and the SP have similar performance at similar rpm levels I don't really know why they switched them.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> The MP blade actually has a significantly better PQ curve. So, in real world usage, the MP will move more air in most applications.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Melcar*
> 
> The MPs are better, but the difference is not HUGE when you compare them at the same speeds. The MPs have a higher max speed, so they are more useful in more situations than the SP (plus they are PWM). Only thing bad about the MPs is that they have tonality issues on their low and high rpm settings (and the crappy "sleeving" Phanteks uses).


In my Evolv ATX I've do some A/B comparisons of PH-F140SP and new case fans with MP style impeller and found the MP style impeller is as @ciarlatano said, they perform significantly better.

Here is independent testing of MP and XP

We cannot compare Hardware Info airflow without radiator to factory specs because their airflow test is done using a 120mm tube about 2 meters long with straws filling one section to straighten the airflow. This test test system restricts airflow even for 120mm fans .. and is even more restrictive when used on 140mm fans. While their airflow test system is restrictive compared to expensive lab equipment, it is less restrictive than case vents are .. even without filteres. In their tests we see airflow test results are MP 49.0 cfm which is significantly better than XP 43.2 cfm.


----------



## Melcar

Don't know about the XP (same as the SP but with PWM I assume). Can only speak for the two SPs and the single no-name case fan from the Enthoo Pro that I have. Both fans (real SPs and the no-name case fan) perform similar at the same speed, with the real SPs running a bit faster at 12v (1200-1250 rpm). Now, I admit I don't have testing equipment and I'm only using them as filtered intake case fans, but in my use case they don't perform that much different.
The SPs did perform better when I mounted them as case intake on my brother's CM Elite 431. That case has a very restrictive front intake (steel grill + fancy plastic front plate), so only fans with good sp are able to pull adequate air. The real SPs were able to keep the case cooler than the no-name Enthoo Pro fan. Very likely because of the higher speed.


----------



## pez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Melcar*
> 
> The MPs are better, but the difference is not HUGE when you compare them at the same speeds. The MPs have a higher max speed, so they are more useful in more situations than the SP (plus they are PWM). Only thing bad about the MPs is that they have tonality issues on their low and high rpm settings (and the crappy "sleeving" Phanteks uses).


What tonality issues? Between 4 120MPs and 3 140MPs, I've yet to hear any tonality issues. These fans run at 20-30% on idle and the 120MPs I have run at 80-100% under load. This is both with them being in restricted intake scenarios, pull-only radiator scenarios and push-pull radiator scenarios.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pez*
> 
> What tonality issues? Between 4 120MPs and 3 140MPs, I've yet to hear any tonality issues. These fans run at 20-30% on idle and the 120MPs I have run at 80-100% under load. This is both with them being in restricted intake scenarios, pull-only radiator scenarios and push-pull radiator scenarios.


Same. I've installed the MP in a number of builds and have experienced no tonality issues, or bearing noise issues at all. I find the sound profile at low rpm to be excellent, and as expected at higher rpm.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Melcar*
> 
> Don't know about the XP (same as the SP but with PWM I assume). Can only speak for the two SPs and the single no-name case fan from the Enthoo Pro that I have. Both fans (real SPs and the no-name case fan) perform similar at the same speed, with the real SPs running a bit faster at 12v (1200-1250 rpm). Now, I admit I don't have testing equipment and I'm only using them as filtered intake case fans, but in my use case they don't perform that much different.
> The SPs did perform better when I mounted them as case intake on my brother's CM Elite 431. That case has a very restrictive front intake (steel grill + fancy plastic front plate), so only fans with good sp are able to pull adequate air. The real SPs were able to keep the case cooler than the no-name Enthoo Pro fan. Very likely because of the higher speed.


Yes, XP has same performance as SP, difference is PWM control. MP has higher maximum rpm, but MP performance edge is at low speed.

Here is Cooling Techniques testing of PH-F140HP and PH-F140HP_II cooler fans. HP has same impeller as PH-F140SP and HP_2 has same impeller as new case fan, but in round corner housings having 105mm mounting hole spacing. If we compare them at similar speeds the HP_2 has significantly higher cfm and mm H2O .. all with slightly lower noise levels. While cfm rating is higher, the real difference is that static pressure rating is more than 50% higher with MP style impeller over SP / HP style impeller. Higher static pressure translates into fan being able to flow more air against resistance.


My experience is the new cases fans keep case cooler then SP did. I attribute this to their having more the 50% higher static pressure rating and therefor higher ability to over come resistance and flow more air. My experience is same as almost everyone except you, and while I have heard a few other people complain about tonal differences most user and myself have not noticed any.


----------



## guzzoline

I think I've experienced the tonal issues with 140mm MP style fans some people mention here.

For me, @ specific RPM ranges the fans seem to emit a higher pitched droning hum. This is on every fan with that style impeller that I have (2 MP style stock fans, 2 F140HP_II, 1 F140MP). Occurs when placed as intake or exhaust, as well as when tested outside of the case. I figure this rules out case vibrations and faulty fans. Luckily the hum does not occur when the two cooler fans are attached to the cooler (a relief, as they're the best cooler fans I've tried!).


----------



## PureBlackFire

I've experienced tonal issues on MP 140's. the SP sound alot better @800-1000 rpm, I stuck with SP for intakes.


----------



## Melcar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *guzzoline*
> 
> I think I've experienced the tonal issues with 140mm MP style fans some people mention here.
> 
> For me, @ specific RPM ranges the fans seem to emit a higher pitched droning hum. This is on every fan with that style impeller that I have (2 MP style stock fans, 2 F140HP_II, 1 F140MP). Occurs when placed as intake or exhaust, as well as when tested outside of the case. I figure this rules out case vibrations and faulty fans. Luckily the hum does not occur when the two cooler fans are attached to the cooler (a relief, as they're the best cooler fans I've tried!).


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PureBlackFire*
> 
> I've experienced tonal issues on MP 140's. the SP sound alot better @800-1000 rpm, I stuck with SP for intakes.


Yeah, that's what I mean. For the 140 mm, anything below 600 rpm or so and they have this weird hum and vibration. It's very apparent because they are otherwise quiet fans. They are best at around 1000-1200 rpm. The most you hear is air moving. When they get to 1600 rpm (max) again you get the hum and vibration. The 120 mm version has the same issue, but it's not as bad. The SPs are better in terms of awkward noises, but they seem to be louder than the MPs at the same rpm.


----------



## Bill Owen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> Nice idea but 45 dollars for a metal plate, 2 screws and a piece of rubber...?! That's excessively expensive for something that shouldn't cost more than 10 bucks...


until you try to make one yourself.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Interesting way of supportting up video card. I prefer the cards be supported along side farthest from motherboard.
> MNPCtech makes a really nice one.
> 
> 
> 
> Video review of installation.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Link to MNPCTech website
> https://mnpctech.com/gpu-support-bracket/mnpctech-single-gpu-support-bracket-black.html


10 bucks, plus $125K HAAS cnc mill, plus $19K for licensed Mastercam software


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bill Owen*
> 
> until you try to make one yourself.
> 10 bucks, plus $125K HAAS cnc mill, plus $19K for licensed Mastercam software


Don't understand what you are trying to get at quoting me with lots of defensive attitude in your reply about 10 buck plus all the other expenses involved in making a quality GPU supporting mount like yours is.

All I did was post your mount saying how a much better it is designed a video of how it works and where to get it. I'd ask if you needed a cup of coffee to wake up, but it's not that early. Maybe you are just having a bad day.


----------



## paskowitz

I think he was replying to hurricane28 and just put your post in the wrong place.


----------



## pez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PureBlackFire*
> 
> I've experienced tonal issues on MP 140's. the SP sound alot better @800-1000 rpm, I stuck with SP for intakes.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Melcar*
> 
> Yeah, that's what I mean. For the 140 mm, anything below 600 rpm or so and they have this weird hum and vibration. It's very apparent because they are otherwise quiet fans. They are best at around 1000-1200 rpm. The most you hear is air moving. When they get to 1600 rpm (max) again you get the hum and vibration. The 120 mm version has the same issue, but it's not as bad. The SPs are better in terms of awkward noises, but they seem to be louder than the MPs at the same rpm.


I don't experience these issues -- use your warranties, guys







.


----------



## CHUNKYBOWSER

I've been trying to get in contact with Phanteks' international sales department but I have't had any luck. Sent an email a few days ago and no response. Also messaged their Facebook page and nothing.

Anyway, I live in Japan and I want to buy a P400S Tempered Glass in anthracite gray. Unfortunately I can't find it being sold anywhere here and shipping it from the U.S. is very expensive (about $100 just for shipping). I guess I'm just out of luck and will either have to pony up the extra cash for shipping or settle for the acrylic window version which is sold here.

Does anyone, by chance, have some advice?

Thanks.


----------



## pez

Surely it'd be cheaper to just buy the Acrylic version and find someone locally that could cut a piece of tempered glass to the same spec.


----------



## CHUNKYBOWSER

You're correct, but it's also the size of the window that's a problem. The tempered glass version gives a much better view of the interior versus the acrylic, and I don't want to cut up a metal side panel to get the same effect. At that point it would probably be cheaper to just have the case shipped from the U.S. anyway.

Perhaps the tempered glass version just hasn't made its way over here yet. Hopefully Phanteks responds to me soon so I can make a decision.


----------



## pez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CHUNKYBOWSER*
> 
> You're correct, but it's also the size of the window that's a problem. The tempered glass version gives a much better view of the interior versus the acrylic, and I don't want to cut up a metal side panel to get the same effect. At that point it would probably be cheaper to just have the case shipped from the U.S. anyway.
> 
> Perhaps the tempered glass version just hasn't made its way over here yet. Hopefully Phanteks responds to me soon so I can make a decision.


Ah, I had the Pro M in mind where it was the same type of panel, just literally different materials







.

Their support in my experience has been really good, though they have taken a couple days to respond on occasion. What address did you attempt to contact?


----------



## CHUNKYBOWSER

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pez*
> 
> Ah, I had the Pro M in mind where it was the same type of panel, just literally different materials
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> Their support in my experience has been really good, though they have taken a couple days to respond on occasion. What address did you attempt to contact?


I contacted them using their international email listed on their website: [email protected]

I probably just haven't given them enough time. I'll wait it out a few more days.

I'm sure that I'll be happy in the end, either way. No other case has impressed me as much as the P400 in Gray. If I had to I think I would even settle for the windowless version.


----------



## pez

I want to say I had the longest waiting time when contacting them before in regards to a cooler, but the did eventually respond. I would say to sent a gentle (and friendly







) reminder to them.


----------



## hurricane28

Talking about GPU support, i think GPU vendors should ship every GPU with one of these:


----------



## weyburn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> Talking about GPU support, i think GPU vendors should ship every GPU with one of these:


you mean the cooler? Yeah... founders edition coolers really hurt performance a lot. I used to have a 1070 FE, and it would always hit its 80c thermal limit and would downclock to cool it down, even if i increased the thermal limit it would go to 85+. Now I have a 1080 with a beast aftermarket cooler, and even with my hardest OC it doesn't go higher than 70c.

kinda funny cuz I thought I got a good deal by getting a 970 FE for my gf's rig for $125, then I ended up finding someone to sell me an aftermarket 970 for $130, so i decided to sell the FE version, and got someone to buy it off me for $150. Them money and performance gains.


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *weyburn*
> 
> you mean the cooler? Yeah... founders edition coolers really hurt performance a lot. I used to have a 1070 FE, and it would always hit its 80c thermal limit and would downclock to cool it down, even if i increased the thermal limit it would go to 85+. Now I have a 1080 with a beast aftermarket cooler, and even with my hardest OC it doesn't go higher than 70c.
> 
> kinda funny cuz I thought I got a good deal by getting a 970 FE for my gf's rig for $125, then I ended up finding someone to sell me an aftermarket 970 for $130, so i decided to sell the FE version, and got someone to buy it off me for $150. Them money and performance gains.


No, sorry i should be more clear. I was revering to the GPU support plate or bracket MSI includes in this GPU.

Its a monster of an GPU though, unfortunately i am not able to buy it


----------



## weyburn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> No, sorry i should be more clear. I was revering to the GPU support plate or bracket MSI includes in this GPU.
> 
> Its a monster of an GPU though, unfortunately i am not able to buy it


yeah, especially with how big GPU's are getting these days, there's definitely an overwhelming worry about the structural integrity of their case/card lol.


----------



## Spork13

Pretty sure he's talking about the support bracket.


----------



## smithydan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CHUNKYBOWSER*
> 
> Does anyone, by chance, have some advice?
> 
> Thanks.


Buy it from taobao.com


----------



## CHUNKYBOWSER

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smithydan*
> 
> Buy it from taobao.com


They seem to have every color except for Gray!


----------



## smithydan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CHUNKYBOWSER*
> 
> They seem to have every color except for Gray!


Best colour too lol


----------



## CHUNKYBOWSER

The gray tempered glass P400 is really the only case that catches my eye. I can't believe it's also the only one I can't source on this half of the planet.


----------



## doyll

Pewter/gunmetal/battleship grey .. dark grey cases and soft white are my favorite colors


----------



## bajer29

Anyone have a Enthoo Pro with the black exterior and white interior? I'd like to see what it looks like with some hardware installed. Seems like the Enthoo Pro tempered with RGB lighting is the only one that comes in this color scheme?


----------



## weyburn

yeah for some reason the grey cases look really nice, and the black's look really bland.


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bajer29*
> 
> Anyone have a Enthoo Pro with the black exterior and white interior? I'd like to see what it looks like with some hardware installed. Seems like the Enthoo Pro tempered with RGB lighting is the only one that comes in this color scheme?


here are some images of a Luxe, no hardware installed though:






credit to @owcraftsman


----------



## owcraftsman

Yep that was a DIY

@bajer29







Rust-Oleum 7791830 Satin Enamel Spray, 12-Ounce, White


----------



## bajer29

@owcraftsman. Any pics of hardware installed? Just ordered the pro m se. It has a white interior as well.


----------



## jd63636

Just moved my build into an Evolv ATX /Tempered Glass in Anthracite Grey today. All I can say is the quality is ridiculous, build is very smooth and it looks great.


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jd63636*
> 
> Just moved my build into an Evolv ATX /Tempered Glass in Anthracite Grey today. All I can say is the quality is ridiculous, build is very smooth and it looks like a million. Best part is it was only $20 more than the H500P I returned. Defiantly a Phanteks fan now. I had four of the NF-A14's so I switched out the fans that were included and removed the fan hub.


I was looking at reviews for the H500P and they were incredibly bad, is the case that bad?


----------



## jd63636

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rfarmer*
> 
> I was looking at reviews for the H500P and they were incredibly bad, is the case that bad?


*edit*

Shameful for the price if production units have the issues review units have. Fit and finish on the review samples is questionable. The top and front covers are a bit flimsy looking . Airflow is average. This is billed as a "high airflow case" after all.


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jd63636*
> 
> Shameful for the price. Fit and finish is questionable. the top and front covers are so flimsy it's ridiculous. Airflow is poor, etc... Then I look at this Phanteks case which literally cost $20 more and they're not even in the same universe.


OC3D did a review on this case and couldn't say enough good things about it, gave it the Ultimate Award. So I decided to check come other review sites and reviews on Newegg. They all said exactly the same thing you did. Poor build quality, poor air flow and problems with the front and top panel.

Can we say pay off?


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rfarmer*
> 
> OC3D did a review on this case and couldn't say enough good things about it, gave it the Ultimate Award. So I decided to check come other review sites and reviews on Newegg. They all said exactly the same thing you did. Poor build quality, poor air flow and problems with the front and top panel.
> 
> Can we say pay off?


It quite common for review sites to say things that lead readers to believe products are much better than the actually are.
It is also possible the samples sent to reviewers were of better quality then normal production ones are.


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jd63636*
> 
> Shameful for the price. Fit and finish is questionable. the top and front covers are so flimsy it's ridiculous. Airflow is poor, etc... Then I look at this Phanteks case which literally cost $20 more and they're not even in the same universe.


this has been a staple of CM lately. the mastercase line bought them some time, but they are out of touch with the market. bet they have a bunch of expensive accessories in the works for the case. they don't know how to design, the go for looks over functionality and take the cheapest route.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rfarmer*
> 
> OC3D did a review on this case and couldn't say enough good things about it, gave it the Ultimate Award. So I decided to check come other review sites and reviews on Newegg. They all said exactly the same thing you did. Poor build quality, poor air flow and problems with the front and top panel.
> 
> Can we say pay off?


the guy makes really long commercials for top brands. few months ago he didn't even want to review a Mastercase pro because he found so many issues with it. now he does a glowing review of a variant with a ton more issues, higher price tag and cheaper build quality. the guy's cpu review data is useless too as he sticks with old gpu hardware just so he can compare his results to.....his old results. for sure he just takes money from Corsair, Asus, and I guess now CM and rambles on camera before giving a GOLD or "Ultimate" award. I can't knock his hustle, but be wary of his conclusions. clearly his favor can be bought. the top rad bracket on his H500P sample in his review was all bent up from installing the AIO cooler and he said nothing of it.


----------



## LeonKennedy

HI guys, I have a question about the Enthoo Pro case. Do I lose the first 5.25" bay if install thick radiator?


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LeonKennedy*
> 
> HI guys, I have a question about the Enthoo Pro case. Do I lose the first 5.25" bay if install thick radiator?


I will ask you a question - _why_ do you want to install a thick radiator?

Also, the 5.25 bay is not all you are looking at losing.


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> I will ask you a question - *why do you want to install a thick radiator?*
> 
> Also, the 5.25 bay is not all you are looking at losing.


Because of surface area? If you can't house an bigger radiator for example from 240 to 360 mm, the better option would be to go with thicker radiator to compensate for the surface area.


----------



## LeonKennedy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> I will ask you a question - _why_ do you want to install a thick radiator?
> 
> Also, the 5.25 bay is not all you are looking at losing.


Ok, I will clarify my question. I want to install a Corsair H115i which is a 280mm radiator at the yellow area, also I will install a 120mm radiator for my VEGA 64 Liquid Cooled card at the red area. So I'm concern that the H115i will block the first 5.25" bay in the case, where I intended to install my DVD drive.


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> Because of surface area? If you can't house an bigger radiator for example from 240 to 360 mm, the better option would be to go with thicker radiator to compensate for the surface area.


Really depends on which thick radiator and which fans you're planning to run, most thick radiators need high speed fans to perform better, and can even perform significantly worse with low speed fans.

I've seen quite a few people running radiators like the EK XE and HWL GTX with low speed fans, which is completely awful. And the thicker is always better misconception is to blame for this.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> Because of surface area? If you can't house an bigger radiator for example from 240 to 360 mm, the better option would be to go with thicker radiator to compensate for the surface area.


As already said, while thicker fans do have the ability to move more heat into the air, their added cooling comes with the need for more power fans and even then the improvement is not as much as you would think. It is better to go with bigger radiator/s (280 vs 240) or more thin radiators.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LeonKennedy*
> 
> Ok, I will clarify my question. I want to install a Corsair H115i which is a 280mm radiator at the yellow area, also I will install a 120mm radiator for my VEGA 64 Liquid Cooled card at the red area. So I'm concern that the H115i will block the first 5.25" bay in the case, where I intended to install my DVD drive.


I suspect you would be better served getting a better H2O system that has copper radiator/s and pump with higher flow rate like Swiftech H series AIOs. You will have much better cooling and a lot less noise too.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> As already said, while thicker fans do have the ability to move more heat into the air, their added cooling comes with the need for more power fans and even then the improvement is not as much as you would think. It is better to go with bigger radiator/s (280 vs 240) or more thin radiators.


You mean thicker "rads".


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> You mean thicker "rads".










Yes, I need to proof before I post .


----------



## hurricane28

I understand. Although you both have a point. That being said, i still think its a better idea to go with thicker rads if you only have space for one. Lets say i would choose 45 mm thick radiator instead of 25 mm any day. If you can house more radiators its better to go with more of course but i would still go with thicker than slimmer radiators if i have enough clearance.

I think i can house 1 360 45 mm and one 240/280 60 mm in my case. I could go for 2 slim radiators but if there is room why not? My fans are more than powerful enough. I currently running ALphacool NexXxoS 360 mm 30 mm thick radiator and my Noctua's don't even break sweat. I can almost run my rig passively without the fans turning at low loads but mostly they spin at 1380 rpm and are barely hearable. Depending on how hot your chip runs, the more radiators means less fan speed because of the massive thermal dissipation these rads have.

At ambient 21 c, my fans never have to ramp up higher than 1380 rpm, not even when benching, gaming or whatever.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yes, I need to proof before I post .


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> I understand. Although you both have a point. That being said, i still think its a better idea to go with thicker rads if you only have space for one. Lets say i would choose 45 mm thick radiator instead of 25 mm any day. If you can house more radiators its better to go with more of course but i would still go with thicker than slimmer radiators if i have enough clearance.
> 
> I think i can house 1 360 45 mm and one 240/280 60 mm in my case. I could go for 2 slim radiators but if there is room why not? My fans are more than powerful enough. I currently running ALphacool NexXxoS 360 mm 30 mm thick radiator and my Noctua's don't even break sweat. I can almost run my rig passively without the fans turning at low loads but mostly they spin at 1380 rpm and are barely hearable. Depending on how hot your chip runs, the more radiators means less fan speed because of the massive thermal dissipation these rads have.
> 
> At ambient 21 c, my fans never have to ramp up higher than 1380 rpm, not even when benching, gaming or whatever.


There have been some good tests done of the performance of radiators based on thicknesses. I suspect @ciarlatano will be along and post a link showing the errors in you hypothesis..


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LeonKennedy*
> 
> Ok, I will clarify my question. I want to install a Corsair H115i which is a 280mm radiator at the yellow area, also I will install a 120mm radiator for my VEGA 64 Liquid Cooled card at the red area. So I'm concern that the H115i will block the first 5.25" bay in the case, where I intended to install my DVD drive.


Ok....then my next question to you is "why are you asking about thicker rads when you don't own any and have no intention of using any?". Asking that question here will have people digging for published tolerances and/or breaking out measuring devices to try to help you out, which would be for no reason.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gilles3000*
> 
> Really depends on which thick radiator and which fans you're planning to run, most thick radiators need high speed fans to perform better, and can even perform significantly worse with low speed fans.
> 
> I've seen quite a few people running radiators like the EK XE and HWL GTX with low speed fans, which is completely awful. And the thicker is always better misconception is to blame for this.


*EXACTLY* my point.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> I understand. Although you both have a point. That being said, i still think its a better idea to go with thicker rads if you only have space for one. Lets say i would choose 45 mm thick radiator instead of 25 mm any day. If you can house more radiators its better to go with more of course but i would still go with thicker than slimmer radiators if i have enough clearance.
> 
> I think i can house 1 360 45 mm and one 240/280 60 mm in my case. I could go for 2 slim radiators but if there is room why not? My fans are more than powerful enough. I currently running ALphacool NexXxoS 360 mm 30 mm thick radiator and my Noctua's don't even break sweat. I can almost run my rig passively without the fans turning at low loads but mostly they spin at 1380 rpm and are barely hearable. Depending on how hot your chip runs, the more radiators means less fan speed because of the massive thermal dissipation these rads have.
> 
> At ambient 21 c, my fans never have to ramp up higher than 1380 rpm, not even when benching, gaming or whatever.


And I'm not sure if this post proves the misconception @Gilles3000 pointed out.....or proves that some people have a really skewed sense of what "quiet" is. 1380 rpm through a radiator would be positively intolerable to most people.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> There have been some good tests done of the performance of radiators based on thicknesses. I suspect @ciarlatano will be along and post a link showing the errors in you hypothesis..


Here you are - http://www.xtremerigs.net/2015/02/11/radiator-round-2015/5/


----------



## Sev501

Just got my Phanteks Enthoo Pro M TG a week ago, easy to build in, clean looks and good airflow!


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> There have been some good tests done of the performance of radiators based on thicknesses. I suspect @ciarlatano will be along and post a link showing the errors in you hypothesis..


There are some guys on this forum who have the "proofing people wrong" attitude it seems...

I tested both and i must say that thicker rad performs better, why do you think they make it in the first place..? Its not that you can expect 10 c difference of course but if you only replace thin radiator with thicker you can expect more performance out of it, period.

There is also more to rads than just service area.. fpi ( fins per inch) is equally important than how big or thick an radiator is.. If you have an radiator with low fpi you can basically use low rpm fans because the radiator is not that restrictive and get better performance with thicker radiator than with thin radiator.. Of course if you say from 45 mm to 60 mm monsta radiators i woud say no, there is no difference but from 25 to 45 mm there is a noticeable difference.


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Ok....then my next question to you is "why are you asking about thicker rads when you don't own any and have no intention of using any?". Asking that question here will have people digging for published tolerances and/or breaking out measuring devices to try to help you out, which would be for no reason.
> *EXACTLY* my point.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And I'm not sure if this post proves the misconception @Gilles3000 pointed out.....or proves that some people have a really skewed sense of what "quiet" is. 1380 rpm through a radiator would be positively intolerable to most people.
> Here you are - http://www.xtremerigs.net/2015/02/11/radiator-round-2015/5/


I have no "skewed sense of quit" here dude. I mean, how do you know which fans i am using in the first place...? different fans make different noises at same rpm..

I run my fans in push on my radiator which are mounted inside my case and i have a large dust filter on top of the case and i can barely hear my fans at all over ambient noise.. if i am concentrating on the noise than of course i can hear them but if you do that you have an whole different problem and that's not the fan's fault...


----------



## Ubbidude

Forgot to post my updated rig i did a while back :+



http://imgur.com/SIOfmO2





http://imgur.com/OybUvCx


----------



## Sev501

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ubbidude*
> 
> Forgot to post my updated rig i did a while back :+


Love the theme !! Secksy!







Thank you , I've got an Idea now on how I'll route my cables for the SSD, I will be moving it to the front! Hahah


----------



## LeonKennedy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> I suspect you would be better served getting a better H2O system that has copper radiator/s and pump with higher flow rate like Swiftech H series AIOs. You will have much better cooling and a lot less noise too.


I can't get any Swiftech products in my country, only Corsair and NZXT.


----------



## SuFirstPc

Hi All
I am going to build a pc by using Phanteks Evolv ATX case (non-tg). I will use *Noctua NH-D15s for CPU cooling*.

To have good airflow and positive pressure my plan is or questions are :

1. *Front*: *3x120mm static pressure fans ( In-take )* , which brand and model do you guys recommend (NO RGB, quite, 3pin is ok)? My candidate is Phanteks PH-F120SP, or Noctua NF-P12 any other recommendations.

2. *Top*: *2x140mm (or 3x120mm) exhausting fans*, not sure whether to choose *high air flow fans or high static pressure*. I know the top ventilation area is small, so I guess i can just use 2 PH-F140SP (the original case fans)? What do you guys think?

3. *Rear*: *Just keep the 1x140mm original case exhausting fan*? Do I need a PWM fan here? Do I need PWM control? Do I need to connect all intake and exhausting fans to pwm control hub, to enable PWM control?

4. Do you think 3x120mm front in-take, 2x140mm top exhausting, and 1x140mm rear exhausting may reach slightly negative pressure? Is there any way I can make improvement to get positive pressure?
Thanks everyone!

5. So I have 6(case) + 1(CPU) fans = 7 or 5(case) + 1(CPU) fans = 6 depending on config. Am I still safe to add another CPU fan to NH-D15S which only has one fan. Since the PWM hub is recommended to be connected with 6-7 fans, 1 or 2 CPU fans is connecting directly to mobo right? I mean the PWM fan hub limitation does not apply to CPU fans right?

6. What material I should use to cover the top opening area and where can I find this material.

Very appreciated for your guys help and recommendation.


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SuFirstPc*
> 
> Hi All
> I am going to build a pc by using Phanteks Evolv ATX case (non-tg). I will use *Noctua NH-D15s for CPU cooling*.
> 
> To have good airflow and positive pressure my plan is or questions are :
> 
> 
> Spoiler: snip
> 
> 
> 
> 1. *Front*: *3x120mm static pressure fans ( In-take )* , which brand and model do you guys recommend (NO RGB, quite, 3pin is ok)? My candidate is Phanteks PH-F120SP, or Noctua NF-P12 any other recommendations.
> 
> 2. *Top*: *2x140mm (or 3x120mm) exhausting fans*, not sure whether to choose *high air flow fans or high static pressure*. I know the top ventilation area is small, so I guess i can just use 2 PH-F140SP (the original case fans)? What do you guys think?
> 
> 3. *Rear*: *Just keep the 1x140mm original case exhausting fan*? Do I need a PWM fan here? Do I need PWM control? Do I need to connect all intake and exhausting fans to pwm control hub, to enable PWM control?
> 
> 4. Do you think 3x120mm front in-take, 2x140mm top exhausting, and 1x140mm rear exhausting may reach slightly negative pressure? Is there any way I can make improvement to get positive pressure?
> Thanks everyone!
> 
> 5. So I have 6(case) + 1(CPU) fans = 7 or 5(case) + 1(CPU) fans = 6 depending on config. Am I still safe to add another CPU fan to NH-D15S which only has one fan. Since the PWM hub is recommended to be connected with 6-7 fans, 1 or 2 CPU fans is connecting directly to mobo right? I mean the PWM fan hub limitation does not apply to CPU fans right?
> 
> 6. What material I should use to cover the top opening area and where can I find this material.
> 
> 
> Very appreciated for your guys help and recommendation.


The stock config is good and so are the stock fans. Just move the front fans upwards so they sit above the PSU shroud. You really don't need top exhaust.


----------



## Spork13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gilles3000*
> 
> The stock config is good and so are the stock fans. Just move the front fans upwards so they sit above the PSU shroud. You really don't need top exhaust.


This.
Saves buying a bunch of additional fans which may not perform better - and may even perform worse, than the stock setup.
The setup you were suggesting would likely cause negative pressure (3 x 120 in take, 3 x 140 exhaust) and possibly have hot air from GPU pulling up through the CPU HSF rather than fresh cool air.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ubbidude*
> 
> Forgot to post my updated rig i did a while back :+
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/SIOfmO2
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/OybUvCx


Very nicely done!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LeonKennedy*
> 
> I can't get any Swiftech products in my country, only Corsair and NZXT.


Next best are Alphacool Eisbaer, Fractal Design Kelvin and be quiet! Silent Loop AIO. All are made by Alphacool with a pump that flows 72 liter per hour, have copper radiators, proper threaded fittings, fill port and can be repaired if something goes bad .. like pump or want to change hose length.

Most Corsair are made by Asetek with a few by CoolIT. I think all Nzxt are made by Asetek. Neither make a very good cooler. Their pumps flow 40-60 liter per hour. Both Asetek or CoolIT coolers have aluminum radiators, no threaded fitting or fill plug .. system is made to be thrown away when coolant get low and/or pump fails.
Here is link to who makes what brand AIO and CLC
http://www.overclock.net/t/1491876/ways-to-better-cooling-airflow-cooler-fan-data/60_20#post_23781217
Here is a link to who makes what AiO and cooler brand
http://www.overclock.net/t/1491876/ways-to-better-cooling-airflow-cooler-fan-data/80_20

If anyone sees any error or has any data not contained in the above charts please let me know.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> There are some guys on this forum who have the "proofing people wrong" attitude it seems...
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> I tested both and i must say that thicker rad performs better, why do you think they make it in the first place..? Its not that you can expect 10 c difference of course but if you only replace thin radiator with thicker you can expect more performance out of it, period.
> 
> There is also more to rads than just service area.. fpi ( fins per inch) is equally important than how big or thick an radiator is.. If you have an radiator with low fpi you can basically use low rpm fans because the radiator is not that restrictive and get better performance with thicker radiator than with thin radiator.. Of course if you say from 45 mm to 60 mm monsta radiators i woud say no, there is no difference but from 25 to 45 mm there is a noticeable difference.


Seems you are one of them .. and also the one who is trying to make us think you know more than the rest of us .. insist you are right and everyone trying to explain how you are not as smart as you think knows nothing. The people trying to explain it to you probably have more years of water cooling, testing and study in the cooling and airflow fields than you have months. If you would step back and think about what they are saying and read the test data on radiators I think you might understand what they are trying to tell you about using thicker radiators.
Martin'sLiquidLabs is another with lots of testing and guides explaing not only raidators but pumps and fans ..
https://martinsliquidlab.wordpress.com/

You are welcome to discuss your thoughts with everyone here, but please don't try teaching people who are well educated in a field you seem to have a very limited knowledge of.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Seems you are one of them .. and also the one who is trying to make us think you know more than the rest of us .. insist you are right and everyone trying to explain how you are not as smart as you think knows nothing. The people trying to explain it to you probably have more years of water cooling, testing and study in the cooling and airflow fields than you have months. If you would step back and think about what they are saying and read the test data on radiators I think you might understand what they are trying to tell you about using thicker radiators.
> Martin'sLiquidLabs is another with lots of testing and guides explaing not only raidators but pumps and fans ..
> https://martinsliquidlab.wordpress.com/
> 
> You are welcome to discuss your thoughts with everyone here, but please don't try teaching people who are well educated in a field you seem to have a very limited knowledge of.


Spot on! I find it stupid when some people intentionally ask for help in these forums and yet won't even try to digest what'a being already spoonfed to them.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SuFirstPc*
> 
> Hi All
> I am going to build a pc by using Phanteks Evolv ATX case (non-tg). I will use *Noctua NH-D15s for CPU cooling*.
> 
> To have good airflow and positive pressure my plan is or questions are :
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 1. *Front*: *3x120mm static pressure fans ( In-take )* , which brand and model do you guys recommend (NO RGB, quite, 3pin is ok)? My candidate is Phanteks PH-F120SP, or Noctua NF-P12 any other recommendations.
> 
> 2. *Top*: *2x140mm (or 3x120mm) exhausting fans*, not sure whether to choose *high air flow fans or high static pressure*. I know the top ventilation area is small, so I guess i can just use 2 PH-F140SP (the original case fans)? What do you guys think?
> 
> 3. *Rear*: *Just keep the 1x140mm original case exhausting fan*? Do I need a PWM fan here? Do I need PWM control? Do I need to connect all intake and exhausting fans to pwm control hub, to enable PWM control?
> 
> 4. Do you think 3x120mm front in-take, 2x140mm top exhausting, and 1x140mm rear exhausting may reach slightly negative pressure? Is there any way I can make improvement to get positive pressure?
> Thanks everyone!
> 
> 5. So I have 6(case) + 1(CPU) fans = 7 or 5(case) + 1(CPU) fans = 6 depending on config. Am I still safe to add another CPU fan to NH-D15S which only has one fan. Since the PWM hub is recommended to be connected with 6-7 fans, 1 or 2 CPU fans is connecting directly to mobo right? I mean the PWM fan hub limitation does not apply to CPU fans right?
> 
> 6. What material I should use to cover the top opening area and where can I find this material.
> 
> 
> 
> Very appreciated for your guys help and recommendation.


What Gilles3000 said.
But I would not use any top fans and tape over any holes not blocked by front intake fans.
I'm pretty sure the new Evolv ATX cases come with newer no model case fans. Phanteks changed them over a year ago but their websites, boxes, etc show images of PH-F140SP listed fans and PH-F140SP fans in images and no model listed. No idea why they haven't changed specs. and images to reflect changes in product. Also remove all unused PCIe back slot covers to give back of case more vent area.

If you are dead set on using top fan, only use one at back of top and close off all openings in fan / radiator mounting tray.


----------



## owcraftsman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bajer29*
> 
> @owcraftsman. Any pics of hardware installed? Just ordered the pro m se. It has a white interior as well.


There are some linked in my signature and previous post in this thread but some components have changed since I used rig builder. Sorry for the cell pics but only camera I own.


----------



## bajer29

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *owcraftsman*
> 
> There are some linked in my signature and previous post in this thread but some components have changed since I used rig builder. Sorry for the cell pics but only camera I own.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Thanks for taking the time to post these. Didn't occur to me that I could look them up on your profile. Looks sick with white tubes/ coolant. I hope it ties together well with my mostly black w/ white accents hardware.


----------



## Dasboogieman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> I understand. Although you both have a point. That being said, i still think its a better idea to go with thicker rads if you only have space for one. Lets say i would choose 45 mm thick radiator instead of 25 mm any day. If you can house more radiators its better to go with more of course but i would still go with thicker than slimmer radiators if i have enough clearance.
> 
> I think i can house 1 360 45 mm and one 240/280 60 mm in my case. I could go for 2 slim radiators but if there is room why not? My fans are more than powerful enough. I currently running ALphacool NexXxoS 360 mm 30 mm thick radiator and my Noctua's don't even break sweat. I can almost run my rig passively without the fans turning at low loads but mostly they spin at 1380 rpm and are barely hearable. Depending on how hot your chip runs, the more radiators means less fan speed because of the massive thermal dissipation these rads have.
> 
> At ambient 21 c, my fans never have to ramp up higher than 1380 rpm, not even when benching, gaming or whatever.


Actually on the contrary, a thin rad with a set of fans in push pull will often outperform a thick rad with a single set of fans (same overall thickness). Think rads are also less restrictive so the fans on them can cycle air in to and out of your case much faster which can result in a better overall cooling performance.

I'm using 60mm thick UT60 dual 480mm rads and considering switching to 30mm thick 480mm rads with a set of fans in push pull. The rads will perform slightly worse but I will be cycling hot air out of my Primo case much faster which reduces the ambient temperature inside my case.


----------



## owcraftsman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bajer29*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *owcraftsman*
> 
> There are some linked in my signature and previous post in this thread but some components have changed since I used rig builder. Sorry for the cell pics but only camera I own.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for taking the time to post these. Didn't occur to me that I could look them up on your profile. Looks sick with white tubes/ coolant. I hope it ties together well with my mostly black w/ white accents hardware.
Click to expand...

My sig was a bit out of date so I went ahead and updated it.

I'm fixing to gut my man cave and remodel. I have bought a second Luxe and plan to fill them with my two gamers. They are the standard edition LUXE which I will make the second one w/white interior too. I plan to build PC Carts and bridge myself. With the Luxe's in horizontal orientation on top of carts I will bridge them with tempered glass which will also serve a dual purpose as my desktop and right side case cover. Similar to but not final design as below. Cooling will be handled by one Phobya Xtreme Nova 1080 and one bitspower dual d5 pump stations for each PC. The loop with be integrated into the PC Carts with quick disconnect at the case bulkhead. I will likely start a build log here at OCN.


----------



## brox

Not sure if I posted the photos now that I have LEDs, I need another strip to light up my engraving. Also got a heatsink for the M.2 to cover the green.


----------



## SuFirstPc

your saying sounds quite reasonable, too many top fans will pull hot gpu exhausts upward.


----------



## bajer29

How does one utilize the front SSD mount on the Pro M Tempered glass version?



Are the SATA and power cables supposed to run down and through the un-grommetted cutout on the vertical surface (SSD power and data interface down) *OR* up and into the grommetted GPU power cutout on the horizontal surface (SSD power and data interface up)?

There is so little space for the cables' headers to occupy the small area between the PSU shroud and inside of the case. Like literally impossible if you plan on running your SSD with cables pointing down to hide them better.

Any ideas of how to make the SSD look good while mounted to the front?


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bajer29*
> 
> How does one utilize the front SSD mount on the Pro M Tempered glass version?
> 
> 
> 
> Are the SATA and power cables supposed to run down and through the un-grommetted cutout on the vertical surface (SSD power and data interface down) *OR* up and into the grommetted GPU power cutout on the horizontal surface (SSD power and data interface up)?
> 
> There is so little space for the cables' headers to occupy the small area between the PSU shroud and inside of the case. Like literally impossible if you plan on running your SSD with cables pointing down to hide them better.
> 
> Any ideas of how to make the SSD look good while mounted to the front?


I brought all my cables up the right side behind motherboard tray and through gromment that matches their placement to motherboard, optical drive bay, etc.


----------



## bajer29

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> I brought all my cables up the right side behind motherboard tray and through gromment that matches their placement to motherboard, optical drive bay, etc.


So the SSD power and data interface is facing up or is the SSD sideways? It just occurred to me you could install the bracket sideways (not just up and down).


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bajer29*
> 
> So the SSD power and data interface is facing up or is the SSD sideways? It just occurred to me you could install the bracket sideways (not just up and down).


SSD vertical.


----------



## XPrecep

On the Primo, is it possible to remove the top part of the drive cage without a dremel?


----------



## nycgtr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XPrecep*
> 
> On the Primo, is it possible to remove the top part of the drive cage without a dremel?


It's riveted and uses screws on some parts. You shouldn't be using a dremel, a drill will get them out in no time.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XPrecep*
> 
> On the Primo, is it possible to remove the top part of the drive cage without a dremel?


As nycgtr said, best way is to drill the rivets out. If you don't know how there are several guides on youtube.


----------



## XPrecep

All good - just wanted to check how the cage was installed really - if it was screws, rivets, or just one chunk of metal alongside the motherboard tray. I don't have a dremel, but drilling out the rivets is easy.

Is there anywhere to mount an SSD with the cage removed? I've seen quite a few pics of completed builds where it looks like the cage is removed completely, so I assume its possible, I just want to know if its a feature of the case itself or if it would require further modding.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XPrecep*
> 
> All good - just wanted to check how the cage was installed really - if it was screws, rivets, or just one chunk of metal alongside the motherboard tray. I don't have a dremel, but drilling out the rivets is easy.
> 
> Is there anywhere to mount an SSD with the cage removed? I've seen quite a few pics of completed builds where it looks like the cage is removed completely, so I assume its possible, I just want to know if its a feature of the case itself or if it would require further modding.


It comes with SSD mounts for the rear of the MB tray.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XPrecep*
> 
> All good - just wanted to check how the cage was installed really - if it was screws, rivets, or just one chunk of metal alongside the motherboard tray. I don't have a dremel, but drilling out the rivets is easy.
> 
> Is there anywhere to mount an SSD with the cage removed? I've seen quite a few pics of completed builds where it looks like the cage is removed completely, so I assume its possible, I just want to know if its a feature of the case itself or if it would require further modding.


Might help if you looked at a few case reviews. Bill Owen of The Mod Zoo did a very good review of case years ago. It's a long video covering most everything you could ever want to know about the Promo.


----------



## ExcellentAmp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XPrecep*
> 
> All good - just wanted to check how the cage was installed really - if it was screws, rivets, or just one chunk of metal alongside the motherboard tray. I don't have a dremel, but drilling out the rivets is easy.
> 
> Is there anywhere to mount an SSD with the cage removed? I've seen quite a few pics of completed builds where it looks like the cage is removed completely, so I assume its possible, I just want to know if its a feature of the case itself or if it would require further modding.


Yes, behind the motherboard tray is another drop-n-lock location for ssd mounting. I believe the case comes with at least one, dual mount ssd tray. You can relocate your ssd to that area if you remove the drive cage.

@doyll made a great suggestion. Watch Bill Owen's review on the case. A bit lengthy but very comprehensive


----------



## levibaker88

Has anyone played around with the front fan config on the Evolv ATX in regard to 2x 140mm fans and 3x 120mm fans?

I originally swapped out the two standard 140mm SP Phanteks items with three 120mm SP Phanteks fans but I didn't look at the SP rating of the 120mm fans which happen to be complete garbage.

I'm contemplating about changing back to two 140mm fans but going with the 3000rpm Noctua IPPC items (noise is not a factor for me), just wandering if anyone has any numbers or time that they have put into testing to see what the difference might be?

I run an EK-XLC Predator 360 in the top of the case and 120mm slim in the rear for exhaust (a 25mm fan won't fit with the predator). I'm hoping the Noctua items can pull in more air with the restrictive Evolv Front panel and help exhaust more hot air out the back of the case instead of through the radiator.

Thoughts and opinions please.


----------



## bajer29

I love this case...


----------



## SOCOM_HERO

Hi Phanteks Phans,

I'm considering the Enthoo Pro M SE (I have a thing for the black & white theme case) and was wondering if it would fit this pre-built WC loop from EK? Where would I mount my pump/res combo? It would be coming straight out of my sig rig (see photos) and get thrown in the new case.

Thanks!


----------



## pez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bajer29*
> 
> I love this case...


Looks great! Especially with two GPUs in there







.


----------



## Dark Side

one more evolv itx is done











specs is:

i7-7700k + Dark Rock 3
Asus Z270i Strix
Asus 1070 Strix
Corsair LPX 2x8gb 2666
EVGA G3 750W
850evo 500GB hackintosh
850evo 250GB win 7


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dark Side*
> 
> one more evolv itx is done
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> specs is:
> 
> i7-7700k + Dark Rock 3
> Asus Z270i Strix
> Asus 1070 Strix
> Corsair LPX 2x8gb 2666
> EVGA G3 750W
> 850evo 500GB hackintosh
> 850evo 250GB win 7


Looks really good, nice clean build. I wish I had air cooled my Evolv itx when I had it.


----------



## Sev501

Anybody on here with the Enthoo Pro M (any variant) that uses a NZXT Hue+ or Corsair Lighting Node Pro? Can I see some of your set ups please?


----------



## bajer29

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pez*
> 
> Looks great! Especially with two GPUs in there
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


Really fills it in


----------



## Dark Side

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rfarmer*
> 
> Looks really good, nice clean build. I wish I had air cooled my Evolv itx when I had it.


thanks









when my cors h100i gtx died after one year of works in my bitfenix phenom, I'm never again put any aio water solution in my rig.


----------



## lurker2501

New case and cooling.


----------



## bajer29

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dark Side*
> 
> thanks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> when my cors h100i gtx died after one year of works in my bitfenix phenom, *I'm never again put any aio water solution in my rig.*


Same... Air or fully custom loop. Fully custom loop will be out of my budget for quite some time, so high-end air until then


----------



## SOCOM_HERO

Do I need to purchase this pump mount if I am getting an Ethoo Pro M SE?

Same goes for this RGB extension cable. I have one addressable strip I bought and the case is RGB, so do I need two?


----------



## bajer29

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SOCOM_HERO*
> 
> Do I need to purchase this pump mount if I am getting an Ethoo Pro M SE?
> 
> Same goes for this RGB extension cable. I have one addressable strip I bought and the case is RGB, so do I need two?


You definetely need the pump mount. Not sure about the RGB extension cable. If you are just controlling the fan RGB lighting, you don't need anything. There is a integrated controller and an extra Phanteks RGB header for a strip.

Also, the case comes with (1) 2.5" mount, not (2) like advertised. It DOES have (2) 3.5" bays and one optical bay.


----------



## SOCOM_HERO

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bajer29*
> 
> You definetely need the pump mount. Not sure about the RGB extension cable. If you are just controlling the fan RGB lighting, you don't need anything. There is a integrated controller and an extra Phanteks RGB header for a strip.
> 
> Also, the case comes with (1) 2.5" mount, not (2) like advertised. It DOES have (2) 3.5" bays and one optical bay.


I thought that the SE came with two 2.5" caddies and the standard Pro M came with one? http://phanteks.com/Enthoo-Pro-M-SpecialEdition.html

Do I really need the pump mount for a pump/res combo? I have this DDC pump/res combo from EK and it comes with its own little 120mm fan mounted bracket. I don't actually have it attached to a fan in my current system, but it fit some holes where a fan could go.

Phantek's own site lists the dimensions of their bracket as:
85mm x 25mm x 120mm (WxHxD)

I believe that is either the same or pretty close to the one I currently have.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SOCOM_HERO*
> 
> I thought that the SE came with two 2.5" caddies and the standard Pro M came with one? http://phanteks.com/Enthoo-Pro-M-SpecialEdition.html
> 
> Do I really need the pump mount for a pump/res combo? I have this DDC pump/res combo from EK and it comes with its own little 120mm fan mounted bracket. I don't actually have it attached to a fan in my current system, but it fit some holes where a fan could go.
> 
> Phantek's own site lists the dimensions of their bracket as:
> 85mm x 25mm x 120mm (WxHxD)
> 
> I believe that is either the same or pretty close to the one I currently have.


You won't need the pump mount with that unit.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SOCOM_HERO*
> 
> I thought that the SE came with two 2.5" caddies and the standard Pro M came with one? http://phanteks.com/Enthoo-Pro-M-SpecialEdition.html
> 
> Do I really need the pump mount for a pump/res combo? I have this DDC pump/res combo from EK and it comes with its own little 120mm fan mounted bracket. I don't actually have it attached to a fan in my current system, but it fit some holes where a fan could go.
> 
> Phantek's own site lists the dimensions of their bracket as:
> 85mm x 25mm x 120mm (WxHxD)
> 
> I believe that is either the same or pretty close to the one I currently have.


According to website specs both come with 2x 2.5" drive mounts. But website and labeling are not always accurate. Sometimes Phanteks makes changes in case components during a production run and doesn't publish it.


----------



## Essenbe

I just finished building in the Pro M Tempered Glass case yesterday. It has 2 SSD mounts, but only 1 holder. It actually has 3 mounts if you count the one in the front. But, it still only has the 1 SSD holder. I know the pictures on the Phanteks site show 2 holders, but there is only 1. Hope this helps you.


----------



## Essenbe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XPrecep*
> 
> All good - just wanted to check how the cage was installed really - if it was screws, rivets, or just one chunk of metal alongside the motherboard tray. I don't have a dremel, but drilling out the rivets is easy.
> 
> Is there anywhere to mount an SSD with the cage removed? I've seen quite a few pics of completed builds where it looks like the cage is removed completely, so I assume its possible, I just want to know if its a feature of the case itself or if it would require further modding.


The 5.25" bays are Riveted in. Easy to remove.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Essenbe*
> 
> I just finished building in the Pro M Tempered Glass case yesterday. It has 2 SSD mounts, but only 1 holder. It actually has 3 mounts if you count the one in the front. But, it still only has the 1 SSD holder. I know the pictures on the Phanteks site show 2 holders, but there is only 1. Hope this helps you.


Images I've seen of Pro M TG only show one 2.5" holders. Could you post link to pic showing 2? Maybe contact Phanteks customer support with link to image showing 2x 2.5" mounts and let them know you only have one. They will likely send you another one.








Please let us know what they say.


----------



## Essenbe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Images I've seen of Pro M TG only show one 2.5" holders. Could you post link to pic showing 2? Maybe contact Phanteks customer support with link to image showing 2x 2.5" mounts and let them know you only have one. They will likely send you another one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Please let us know what they say.


It is the Special Edition. The description on the page just says Tempered Glass though.They are both the same model number.

http://phanteks.com/Enthoo-Pro-M-SpecialEdition.html


----------



## Essenbe

BTW Doyll, do you know if there is more space for cabling behind the motherboard on the Enthoo Pro than on the Pro M and is the window tempered glass on the Pro?


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Essenbe*
> 
> It is the Special Edition. The description on the page just says Tempered Glass though.They are both the same model number.
> http://phanteks.com/Enthoo-Pro-M-SpecialEdition.html
> Wow! That page is a total cluster .... not only advertising 2 different models with same product code, but all the pics are not even of same case .. total fubar.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Is product code number on box the same as on website?
> Phanteks really needs to straighten up and be more professional or they will start loosing consumer respect and sales will fall.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Essenbe*
> 
> BTW Doyll, do you know if there is more space for cabling behind the motherboard on the Enthoo Pro than on the Pro M and is the window tempered glass on the Pro?


I have Luxe and could measure it. Same base case as Pro, but I don't have a Pro M to measure. My Luxe is boxed up as I move it's components into my Evolv ATX.

Maybe others wth a Luxe or Pro will be able to give us the motherboard tray to case side measurement.


----------



## bajer29

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SOCOM_HERO*
> 
> I thought that the SE came with two 2.5" caddies and the standard Pro M came with one? http://phanteks.com/Enthoo-Pro-M-SpecialEdition.html
> 
> Do I really need the pump mount for a pump/res combo? I have this DDC pump/res combo from EK and it comes with its own little 120mm fan mounted bracket. I don't actually have it attached to a fan in my current system, but it fit some holes where a fan could go.
> 
> Phantek's own site lists the dimensions of their bracket as:
> 85mm x 25mm x 120mm (WxHxD)
> 
> I believe that is either the same or pretty close to the one I currently have.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> According to website specs both come with 2x 2.5" drive mounts. But website and labeling are not always accurate. Sometimes Phanteks makes changes in case components during a production run and doesn't publish it.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Essenbe*
> 
> I just finished building in the Pro M Tempered Glass case yesterday. It has 2 SSD mounts, but only 1 holder. It actually has 3 mounts if you count the one in the front. But, it still only has the 1 SSD holder. I know the pictures on the Phanteks site show 2 holders, but there is only 1. Hope this helps you.


I'm telling you... the SE only comes with (1) SSD caddie. I just built in it and Amazon and NewEgg reviews outlined this as the most un-liked thing about the case due to "false advertising". Buy yourself an extra one, they're only $8.

Also, the third mount on the SE is on the PSU shroud near the front of the case (below the extra HDD caddie mounts).

EDIT: If they say it comes with (2) I wouldn't settle until you send an email to their customer care address. I did purchase an extra one in case the reviews were true, which they were.


----------



## Essenbe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bajer29*
> 
> I'm telling you... the SE only comes with (1) SSD caddie. I just built in it and Amazon and NewEgg reviews outlined this as the most un-liked thing about the case due to "false advertising". Buy yourself an extra one, they're only $8.
> 
> Also, the third mount on the SE is on the PSU shroud near the front of the case (below the extra HDD caddie mounts).


Bajer29, I think we are both saying the same thing, just using different terminology. Mine had 2 places on the back and 1 on the front to mount the holder, but only 1 holder (caddie).


----------



## bajer29

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Essenbe*
> 
> Bajer29, I think we are both saying the same thing, just using different terminology. Mine had 2 places on the back and 1 on the front to mount the holder, but only 1 holder (caddie).


Yeah I see that now... I just messaged them about the SE's spec sheet that states it comes with 2 as well as Amazon and NewEgg. Hopefully they'll do the right thing and send me one for no charge.


----------



## Essenbe

Good luck with it. I have the enthoo Primo too and have extra caddies with it. I could probably use them but they are double SSD caddies and I don't think there is enough space behind the motherboard tray. Maybe in the front but it would be too close to the glass window for me.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bajer29*
> 
> Yeah I see that now... I just messaged them about the SE's spec sheet that states it comes with 2 as well as Amazon and NewEgg. Hopefully they'll do the right thing and send me one for no charge.


Might be worth checking consumer rights. Most western countries have very clear laws about supplying exactly what is advertised, and website advertising clearly shows 2x 2.5" caddies.


----------



## bajer29

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> You won't need the pump mount with that unit.


Yes, this is true. He said "pump" and not combo at first.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Might be worth checking consumer rights. Most western countries have very clear laws about supplying exactly what is advertised, and website advertising clearly shows 2x 2.5" caddies.


I'm going to wait a bit and see what kind of response I get. Not like I'm going to launch a lawsuit against them for a $8 part









I think the ethical thing to do, either way, would be to send an extra bracket to the customers who pick up on this flaw (and can prove they purchased the case) and just leave it at that. It's obviously a real problem when more than 50% of the reviews say that the specs says it comes with two, but it only comes with 1.

EDIT: I do retract my comment of telling SOCOM_HERO to just buy one. It's what I did to cover myself for my build, but I don't think it's a bad thing to follow up with an email looking for fulfillment of a "promise" per their own advertisements and spec sheets.


----------



## SOCOM_HERO

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bajer29*
> 
> Yes, this is true. He said "pump" and not combo at first.
> I'm going to wait a bit and see what kind of response I get. Not like I'm going to launch a lawsuit against them for a $8 part
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think the ethical thing to do, either way, would be to send an extra bracket to the customers who pick up on this flaw (and can prove they purchased the case) and just leave it at that. It's obviously a real problem when more than 50% of the reviews say that the specs says it comes with two, but it only comes with 1.
> 
> EDIT: I do retract my comment of telling SOCOM_HERO to just buy one. It's what I did to cover myself for my build, but I don't think it's a bad thing to follow up with an email looking for fulfillment of a "promise" per their own advertisements and spec sheets.


I'll wait for mine to show up and see how many it has. I have some spare drive caddies laying around that fit 2.5" bays into 3.5" bays. If it really bothers me I will send them an email and see if they have an explanation or can send me a drive caddy. Guess I'll find out when it gets here.


----------



## dlewbell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dark Side*
> 
> one more evolv itx is done
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Picture
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> specs is:
> 
> i7-7700k + Dark Rock 3
> Asus Z270i Strix
> Asus 1070 Strix
> Corsair LPX 2x8gb 2666
> EVGA G3 750W
> 850evo 500GB hackintosh
> 850evo 250GB win 7


Have you tested the case with that top exhaust fan disabled? I suspect it's not actually doing anything helpful for you, & may actually hurt your thermal performance. It's so close to the intake without any heat producing components nearby, & the rest of the top panel appears to be open to the inside allowing to to mostly just recirculate air inside the case.


----------



## Melcar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dlewbell*
> 
> Have you tested the case with that top exhaust fan disabled? I suspect it's not actually doing anything helpful for you, & may actually hurt your thermal performance. It's so close to the intake without any heat producing components nearby, & the rest of the top panel appears to be open to the inside allowing to to mostly just recirculate air inside the case.


I think it's set as intake.


----------



## XPrecep

Thanks for your help so far guys. I've purchased the Primo and drilled out the drive bays. Looks good so far.

Now I need to route cables to the LED switch board, problem is that its pretty concealed up in the top left corner of the backside of the case. I've taken off all the panels that there's instruction for in the manual.

But I'm still left with this thin panel on the top corner, which has the USB ports and on/off switch etc. Is there an example anywhere on how to safely remove this? Its been skipped or brushed over in the videos I've watched. I don't think my fingers are small enough to get in there and attach anything else to that board otherwise. Also, if anyone can attest to how long the cables attached to that panel are that'd be great - don't want to damage anything when I remove it.


----------



## nycgtr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XPrecep*
> 
> Thanks for your help so far guys. I've purchased the Primo and drilled out the drive bays. Looks good so far.
> 
> Now I need to route cables to the LED switch board, problem is that its pretty concealed up in the top left corner of the backside of the case. I've taken off all the panels that there's instruction for in the manual.
> 
> But I'm still left with this thin panel on the top corner, which has the USB ports and on/off switch etc. Is there an example anywhere on how to safely remove this? Its been skipped or brushed over in the videos I've watched. I don't think my fingers are small enough to get in there and attach anything else to that board otherwise. Also, if anyone can attest to how long the cables attached to that panel are that'd be great - don't want to damage anything when I remove it.


I've taken this apart as I painted my primo. There's 3 screws that hold the 2 circuit boards in. Two for the usb which is just a plastic chunk and the other screw holds the power reset switch in place along with the Led controller from what I can recall. You won't yank any wires out as they are plugged in and then glue gunned into place for the looser ones. The black panels which house the LED strip is held on by plastic clips. You just need to pry gently, the clips break off really easy. There is also a black out strip of a paperish material that tends to get messed up fairly easily upon disassembly.

If your going to keep the removed drive bays, you should make a panel to cover up that area, otherwise it's not visually appealling imo.

here's mine she's almost done.


----------



## brox

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Essenbe*
> 
> BTW Doyll, do you know if there is more space for cabling behind the motherboard on the Enthoo Pro than on the Pro M and is the window tempered glass on the Pro?


The pro has about 160mm between the mobo panel and back panel.



Also the window is acrylic on the pro.


----------



## Essenbe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brox*
> 
> The pro has about 160mm between the mobo panel and back panel.
> 
> 
> 
> Also the window is acrylic on the pro.


Thanks, I appreciate the help.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brox*
> 
> The pro has about 160mm between the mobo panel and back panel.
> 
> 
> 
> Also the window is acrylic on the pro.


I think you mean 16mm .. about 5/8 of an inch. 160mm is more than 6 inches.


----------



## Dark Side

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dlewbell*
> 
> Have you tested the case with that top exhaust fan disabled? I suspect it's not actually doing anything helpful for you, & may actually hurt your thermal performance. It's so close to the intake without any heat producing components nearby, & the rest of the top panel appears to be open to the inside allowing to to mostly just recirculate air inside the case.


I don't tested this... this is one exhaust fan and I think they don't doing anything bad because hot air anyway goes up... fan speed is only 400-500rpm. I can't fit a second top fan because mounting wire of cpu cooler make contact with blades of fan... I'm very satisfied with this build, they are totally silent and cold and use primary for coding and sometimes for gaming.
sorry for bad english...


----------



## bajer29

Decided to get the Phantecs RGB LED Combo kit. It evened the light out a bit in the case, but I'm probably going to stick with white lights. Not a huge fan of crazy colors. I just like seeing my sexy hardware


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dark Side*
> 
> I don't tested this... this is one exhaust fan and I think they don't doing anything bad because hot air anyway goes up... fan speed is only 400-500rpm. I can't fit a second top fan because mounting wire of cpu cooler make contact with blades of fan... I'm very satisfied with this build, they are totally silent and cold and use primary for coding and sometimes for gaming.
> sorry for bad english...


Sorry to burst your bubble, but hot air goes where fans push it. 'Hot air goes up' is not really true. Heat air only rises if there is nothing else causing it to move. Even a low speed fan easily move heated air and stops any hot air from rising. But a fan exhausting air out the top will draw heated air coming off of GPU up in front of CPU cooler and then that already heated air goes into CPU cooler instead of cooler air .. and every degree warmer the air going into cooler is translates to a degree hotter CPU will be at same fan speed.

You might find "Ways to Better Cooling" link in my sig of interest. 1st post is index, click on topic to see it. 5th is a good place to start.

Your English is as good as many natives speak.


----------



## Dark Side

^ thank you sir, everything you say makes sense. I'm bookmarked some threads from your signature.
all temperatures are good for me and I'm doing my best to finish this build. I'll see what scenario will be without this one top exhaust fan


----------



## bajer29

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nycgtr*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> I've taken this apart as I painted my primo. There's 3 screws that hold the 2 circuit boards in. Two for the usb which is just a plastic chunk and the other screw holds the power reset switch in place along with the Led controller from what I can recall. You won't yank any wires out as they are plugged in and then glue gunned into place for the looser ones. The black panels which house the LED strip is held on by plastic clips. You just need to pry gently, the clips break off really easy. There is also a black out strip of a paperish material that tends to get messed up fairly easily upon disassembly.
> 
> If your going to keep the removed drive bays, you should make a panel to cover up that area, otherwise it's not visually appealling imo.
> 
> here's mine she's almost done.


Sweet-looking build.







Did you flip your LED strips so the white backing is facing out and the clear part facing in? My LEDs seem too bright for my liking and I'm thinking I either installed them upside down. Are yours Phantecs RGB?

EDIT:

On another note, if I install a *80mm fan* (if it will fit on the PRO M) next to my GPUs pulling air out of the case, will I get better GPU temps?


----------



## brox

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> I think you mean 16mm .. about 5/8 of an inch. 160mm is more than 6 inches.


Haha yes I did. Thanks. 1.6cm or 16mm


----------



## bajer29

Noice. All you gotta do is ask


----------



## SOCOM_HERO

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bajer29*
> 
> 
> 
> Noice. All you gotta do is ask


Awesome. I received confirmation mine was delivered today. Can't wait to see it in person when I get home.


----------



## bajer29

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SOCOM_HERO*
> 
> Awesome. I received confirmation mine was delivered today. Can't wait to see it in person when I get home.












I think you'll love it. Pretty good build quality, I did notice a slight gap between the top corners of case the and the tempered glass panel. I think you might be able to see it in my latest photo I posted in this thread. Hardly notice it, though.


----------



## nycgtr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bajer29*
> 
> Sweet-looking build.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Did you flip your LED strips so the white backing is facing out and the clear part facing in? My LEDs seem too bright for my liking and I'm thinking I either installed them upside down. Are yours Phantecs RGB?
> 
> EDIT:
> 
> On another note, if I install a *80mm fan* (if it will fit on the PRO M) next to my GPUs pulling air out of the case, will I get better GPU temps?


I am using the phanteks strips. They are facing out as normal just i control them with asus aura so they've been dimmed


----------



## bajer29

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nycgtr*
> 
> I am using the phanteks strips. They are facing out as normal just i control them with asus aura so they've been dimmed


Ah, that is one thing my mobo doesn't have. I'm controlling them with the case's integrated RGB controller which only allows me to pick a specific color, no dimming.


----------



## nycgtr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bajer29*
> 
> Decided to get the Phantecs RGB LED Combo kit. It evened the light out a bit in the case, but I'm probably going to stick with white lights. Not a huge fan of crazy colors. I just like seeing my sexy hardware


Yea I have TG evolv as well. The built in controller wont dim, the board I had in it though did have a header so sovled that for me.


----------



## SOCOM_HERO

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bajer29*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think you'll love it. Pretty good build quality, I did notice a slight gap between the top corners of case the and the tempered glass panel. I think you might be able to see it in my latest photo I posted in this thread. Hardly notice it, though.


I can barely see what you're talking about on my example. Seems like a very well laid out case, glass looks great in person.

I am missing the 2nd SSD tray and have reached out to support. I have the RGB extender on the way already from Amazon, so I'd rather not place another order for a lousy SSD tray.


----------



## lightsout

Anyone know if the Scythe Mugen Max will fit in the Phanteks Enthoo Pro M?


----------



## x3tsniper

Well finally filled my most recent phanteks case. Unfortunately my pump may be potentially defective as the water just kind of sits there looking sad. Why is molex still even a thing.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lightsout*
> 
> Anyone know if the Scythe Mugen Max will fit in the Phanteks Enthoo Pro M?


Yes, with plenty of room to spare.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lightsout*
> 
> Anyone know if the Scythe Mugen Max will fit in the Phanteks Enthoo Pro M?


What ciarlatano said.
Enthoo Pro M has 194mm CPU clearance. That is about 20mm more than the tallest cooler I know of.
Scythe Mugen Max is only 161mm tall.

Here is dimential drawing of Mugen Max


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *x3tsniper*
> 
> Well finally filled my most recent phanteks case. Unfortunately my pump may be potentially defective as the water just kind of sits there looking sad. Why is molex still even a thing.


Is pump flowing coolant?

My understanding is Molex connector can handle much higher power than Sata connector .. but this is generally not an issue except in motherboard and GPU connections .. and maybe powerful pumps and fans.


----------



## nycgtr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *x3tsniper*
> 
> Well finally filled my most recent phanteks case. Unfortunately my pump may be potentially defective as the water just kind of sits there looking sad. Why is molex still even a thing.


If that's an pwm d5 then it needs a pwm signal at times (not always) to run at full speed otherwise the water will move or barely move. If you don't have a pwm signal to feed it, or way to feed it such as pwm to sata. You can do a ghetto workaround that involves in adding some air lol. blow into the inlet with a tube while water is in the res making sure no other ports are open. The pressure should force the pump to get going. Now I did this a few times with an EK d5 revo pump since I didn't have a pwm signal and it worked. Not sure on how just did. Might sound crazy but give it a go.


----------



## lightsout

Excellent thanks a lot you guys!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *lightsout*
> 
> Anyone know if the Scythe Mugen Max will fit in the Phanteks Enthoo Pro M?
> 
> 
> 
> Yes, with plenty of room to spare.
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *lightsout*
> 
> Anyone know if the Scythe Mugen Max will fit in the Phanteks Enthoo Pro M?
> 
> 
> 
> What ciarlatano said.
> Enthoo Pro M has 194mm CPU clearance. That is about 20mm more than the tallest cooler I know of.
> Scythe Mugen Max is only 161mm tall.
> 
> Here is dimential drawing of Mugen Max
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *x3tsniper*
> 
> Well finally filled my most recent phanteks case. Unfortunately my pump may be potentially defective as the water just kind of sits there looking sad. Why is molex still even a thing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Is pump flowing coolant?
> 
> My understanding is Molex connector can handle much higher power than Sata connector .. but this is generally not an issue except in motherboard and GPU connections .. and maybe powerful pumps and fans.
Click to expand...


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nycgtr*
> 
> If that's an pwm d5 then it needs a pwm signal at times (not always) to run at full speed otherwise the water will move or barely move. If you don't have a pwm signal to feed it, or way to feed it such as pwm to sata. You can do a ghetto workaround that involves in adding some air lol. blow into the inlet with a tube while water is in the res making sure no other ports are open. The pressure should force the pump to get going. Now I did this a few times with an EK d5 revo pump since I didn't have a pwm signal and it worked. Not sure on how just did. Might sound crazy but give it a go.


Didn't think beyond finding out if coolant was moving. Assumed pump was running, but you are spot on about it is likely a air-lock .. air in pump or in lines to/from it.

Could try laying computer on it's sides, front, even upside down. to work the bubbles out and break the airlock


----------



## bajer29

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lightsout*
> 
> Anyone know if the Scythe Mugen Max will fit in the Phanteks Enthoo Pro M?


I know you got your answer, but Newegg usually has the hardware clearance specs (GPU length, cpu cooler, and PSU size, etc.) on the case's product page if you know the cooler tower height.

Same goes for cooler height on the cooler's Newegg product page.



Sometimes it's easier to look that up than find it on the manufacturer's website.


----------



## lightsout

Hey thanks I know I was just being lazy wanted to get the order in before I went to bed.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bajer29*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *lightsout*
> 
> Anyone know if the Scythe Mugen Max will fit in the Phanteks Enthoo Pro M?
> 
> 
> 
> I know you got your answer, but Newegg usually has the hardware clearance specs (GPU length, cpu cooler, and PSU size, etc.) on the case's product page if you know the cooler tower height.
> 
> Same goes for cooler height on the cooler's Newegg product page.
> 
> 
> 
> Sometimes it's easier to look that up than find it on the manufacturer's website.
Click to expand...


----------



## SOCOM_HERO

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bajer29*
> 
> 
> 
> Noice. All you gotta do is ask


How long did it take for you to get a reply? Did you submit to [email protected]?


----------



## bajer29

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SOCOM_HERO*
> 
> How long did it take for you to get a reply? Did you submit to [email protected]?


Took a few days... Yeah, [email protected] and sent them my Newegg invoice.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SOCOM_HERO*
> 
> How long did it take for you to get a reply? Did you submit to [email protected]?


I contact Phanteks about once a month to clarify one thing or another and get a reply in 1 to 5 days. Obviously a weekend adds a couple of days. So far I think everyone has had good results from Phanteks customer support .. and I don't expect it to change.


----------



## Essenbe

I know when the Enthoo Primo was first released I got probably the first one Amazon received. They had not received stock but I pre-ordered one and was surprised that I was notified about 2 days later mine had shipped.When I received it, there was some shipping damage to it. I emailed Phantheks support and received a response in about 2 days. They asked for some documentation an pictures. I sent that in and was notified my replacement parts had been shipped within about 2 days. They were very easy to work with and very accommodating. I have no complaints at all with the treatment I received.


----------



## bajer29

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Essenbe*
> 
> I know when the Enthoo Primo was first released I got probably the first one Amazon received. They had not received stock but I pre-ordered one and was surprised that I was notified about 2 days later mine had shipped.When I received it, there was some shipping damage to it. I emailed Phantheks support and received a response in about 2 days. They asked for some documentation an pictures. I sent that in and was notified my replacement parts had been shipped within about 2 days. They were very easy to work with and very accommodating. I have no complaints at all with the treatment I received.


Right, I think I got an answer a bit quicker because I had all my info attached to the original email I sent them. They sent an email back that I'd have a "replacement" SSD bracket in a few business days. That was on the 24th. I'm assuming I'll see it in the mail tomorrow or Monday.

To be more clear about the time it took for them to respond... I've done the advanced math in my head and it comes out to about two full business days


----------



## Essenbe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bajer29*
> 
> Right, I think I got an answer a bit quicker because I had all my info attached to the original email I sent them. They sent an email back that I'd have a "replacement" SSD bracket in a few business days. That was on the 24th. I'm assuming I'll see it in the mail tomorrow or Monday.
> 
> To be more clear about the time it took for them to respond... I've done the advanced math in my head and it comes out to about two full business days


That just shows you are smarter than me.







I should have known I needed to send them the invoice and pictures. I guess I was just expecting them to send me a bunch of parts because I am so darn good looking.







What's worse is I knew better.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Essenbe*
> 
> That just shows you are smarter than me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I should have known I needed to send them the invoice and pictures. I guess I was just expecting them to send me a bunch of parts because I am so darn good looking.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What's worse is I knew better.


But.. but.. how would they even know you are good looking?


----------



## bajer29

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> But.. but.. how would they even know you are good looking?


Quote:


> They asked for some documentation an pictures.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bajer29*


I know. I was joking about him thinking they would send stuff with no pics or copy of purchase invoice.

He said
_"I was just expecting them to send me a bunch of parts because I am so darn good looking."_

And I asked how would they know he was good looking .. because he hadn't sent any pictures.









A company only asking for proof that we have their product and not requiring copy of purchase invoice just goes to show us how good their customer support is. Many companies will only supply something if customer supplies them with a invoice to prove the bought it.


----------



## bajer29

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> I know. I was joking about him thinking they would send stuff with no pics or copy of purchase invoice.
> 
> He said
> _"I was just expecting them to send me a bunch of parts because I am so darn good looking."_
> 
> And I asked how would they know he was good looking .. because he hadn't sent any pictures.


I mean, he did eventually. They jumped on sending him his replacement parts because the photos he eventually sent proved he was really, really good looking.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bajer29*
> 
> I mean, he did eventually. They jumped on sending him his replacement parts because the photos he eventually sent proved he was really, really good looking.


One of us is missunderstanding what Essenbe said.
I think he was talking about them sending parts with no proof because he is good looking
You think it's because he sent pictures and they thought he was good looking.
Whichever it is, you know which one I think it is.


----------



## bajer29

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> One of us is missunderstanding what Essenbe said.
> I think he was talking about them sending parts with no proof because he is good looking
> You think it's because he sent pictures and they thought he was good looking.
> Whichever it is, you know which one I think it is.


Yeah, I tend to not process what I read very well...

Either way we all win because Phantek's customer service is great.


----------



## Essenbe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> But.. but.. how would they even know you are good looking?


I find it very disheartening that you guys could possibly doubt my word concerning my good looks. In my defense I can only say that as soon as I sent the pictures, they dispatched everything I was requesting. That should be proof enough for anyone.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Essenbe*
> 
> I find it very disheartening that you guys could possibly doubt my word concerning my good looks. In my defense I can only say that as soon as I sent the pictures, they dispatched everything I was requesting. That should be proof enough for anyone.


Okay, I guess we can agree Phanteks thinks you look good. And obviously you have good taste because you own Phanteks products .. but do you smell good?


----------



## Essenbe

On Saturday I do.


----------



## bajer29

SSD bracket update: Received it yesterday in the mail. it was in a plain white box with just my address and name on it. Inside was a single SSD bracket wrapped in bubble wrap.

Looks like the full turn-around time was about 4 days since the day I emailed them with all my information/ proof of purchase to receiving the bracket in the mail.


----------



## trez00b

Hello first post here!

I'm a proud owner of a Phanteks Eclipse P300!! Just wanted to share that with you all haha. I'm surprised to not see any posts about the P300 in this thread so far. Such a slick little case. I know it's considered budget but I'm absolutely in love with it. I've been through a lot of cases over the years and this one is just perfect for me. Pretty much as small as it can get for an ATX mid tower and I absolutely love the different look of shroud.


----------



## SOCOM_HERO

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bajer29*
> 
> SSD bracket update: Received it yesterday in the mail. it was in a plain white box with just my address and name on it. Inside was a single SSD bracket wrapped in bubble wrap.
> 
> Looks like the full turn-around time was about 4 days since the day I emailed them with all my information/ proof of purchase to receiving the bracket in the mail.


Mine is on its way as well. Glad to see they are prompt with customer service. If only I could get my 8600K so I could start building....


----------



## sherman85

Hi all,

I'm in a dilemma if I should get enthoo evolv atx, really in love with it's look and quality but the only drawback is the air flow quality which i had read all around in the net.
My upcoming rig will be Asus max formula with 8700k, Asus rog strix 1080ti, 32gb G.skill RGB ram, NZXT X62(front mount) and 960 pro.
As I don't wish to mod on the new case, how worse will the temperature and airflow will be like?
Should i install all 3 fans as output on the top? Some suggested to block it as the top vent flow is limited.
My room temp is always at ~ 30 degree.

Any advise will be appreciated.


----------



## nycgtr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sherman85*
> 
> Hi all,
> 
> I'm in a dilemma if I should get enthoo evolv atx, really in love with it's look and quality but the only drawback is the air flow quality which i had read all around in the net.
> My upcoming rig will be Asus max formula with 8700k, Asus rog strix 1080ti, 32gb G.skill RGB ram, NZXT X62(front mount) and 960 pro.
> As I don't wish to mod on the new case, how worse will the temperature and airflow will be like?
> Should i install all 3 fans as output on the top? Some suggested to block it as the top vent flow is limited.
> My room temp is always at ~ 30 degree.
> 
> Any advise will be appreciated.


My advice as an owner of one. Get something else. I got the TG when Not everyone and their mom had one, now it's all over the place and 99% of the builds look identical. It's a nice case but honestly get something else. Hell I'll sell you mine that's been modded for airflow if you really want it


----------



## RaduV

I've purchased a Shift X while upgrading my reference RX480 to a Zotac 1080 mini on which I did a zip tie mod with a H55 (had it around the house). But because you know what happens when you are not satisfied, I kept pushing some high OC because the temp was around 60C and probably the VRM's got coocked as I only had a fan on them so I had to RMA and should get a refund next week as they didn't had a replacement on stock. So now I wonder if I should go with a larger custom card or a blower considering the case. I would prefer a custom card as blowers throttle but my zotac with the stock cooler was going 84C in this case although in the reviews I've seen it goes around 74C max. really undecided on the GPU but would prefer a custom 1080.


----------



## trez00b

I'm looking for input on fan setup on the P300. And which fans to get. I'm kind of confused by all the different models out there. If anyone has any recommendations for an air cooled P300 would be much appreciated.

I'm thinking two 140's in the front for intake and 140 on the top/120 at the back for exhaust. This should give me a slight positive pressure and reduce dust or do I have that wrong?


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *trez00b*
> 
> I'm looking for input on fan setup on the P300. And which fans to get. I'm kind of confused by all the different models out there. If anyone has any recommendations for an air cooled P300 would be much appreciated.
> 
> I'm thinking two 140's in the front for intake and 140 on the top/120 at the back for exhaust. This should give me a slight positive pressure and reduce dust or do I have that wrong?


Really no need fornthe top fan. Put a pair of F140MP in the front as intake and be done with it. You won't be able to find a fan that will be appreciably better in that application at any price.


----------



## Spork13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sherman85*
> 
> Hi all,
> 
> I'm in a dilemma if I should get enthoo evolv atx, really in love with it's look and quality but the only drawback is the air flow quality which i had read all around in the net.
> My upcoming rig will be Asus max formula with 8700k, Asus rog strix 1080ti, 32gb G.skill RGB ram, NZXT X62(front mount) and 960 pro.
> As I don't wish to mod on the new case, how worse will the temperature and airflow will be like?
> Should i install all 3 fans as output on the top? Some suggested to block it as the top vent flow is limited.
> My room temp is always at ~ 30 degree.
> 
> Any advise will be appreciated.


If you only want to run 1 x rad in the front I really can't see a problem. The top may be a little restrictive for rad's up there, but I think you'll be fine with a dual fan rad in the front and the stock rear fan. I'd probably add 1 x front fan to sulppy cool air to the GPU.


----------



## sherman85

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spork13*
> 
> If you only want to run 1 x rad in the front I really can't see a problem. The top may be a little restrictive for rad's up there, but I think you'll be fine with a dual fan rad in the front and the stock rear fan. I'd probably add 1 x front fan to sulppy cool air to the GPU.


Thanks, you mean beside radiator on the front, there is still room to add 1 more fan too?


----------



## Spork13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sherman85*
> 
> Thanks, you mean beside radiator on the front, there is still room to add 1 more fan too?


Oops. For some reason I thought it was a 240mm rad. The case will fit 3 x 120mm fans in front.
I daresay with some minor modding you could still fit a 280mm rad + a 120mm fan below it but you'd likely have too remove the HDD shroud.
That wouldn't matter too much if you have only M2 drive + 2 x SSD.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sherman85*
> 
> Hi all,
> 
> I'm in a dilemma if I should get enthoo evolv atx, really in love with it's look and quality but the only drawback is the air flow quality which i had read all around in the net.
> My upcoming rig will be Asus max formula with 8700k, Asus rog strix 1080ti, 32gb G.skill RGB ram, NZXT X62(front mount) and 960 pro.
> As I don't wish to mod on the new case, how worse will the temperature and airflow will be like?
> Should i install all 3 fans as output on the top? Some suggested to block it as the top vent flow is limited.
> My room temp is always at ~ 30 degree.
> 
> Any advise will be appreciated.


I know nycgtr is down on Evolv ATX, but the front flows plenty of air. It's the top that has limited flow. May users have Evolv ATX with no complaints. It's best to not use top, but I think @ciarlatano has front and top radiators with no issues. Mine is air cooled and works very well. CPU and GPU intake air temp is never more than 4-5c above room ambient, and that is stress testing both CPU and GPU at same time. In normal use CPU and GPU intake air is less than 3c above room ambient.

But using X62 in front means all intake air is being warmed by CPU heat, so GPU will be using pre-heated air. I would use an air cooler on CPU. A good air cooler is $50-80 and a couple of good intake fans likePH-F140MP for about$33 is $83-113 versus X62 costing about $150 .. CPU will be just as cool and GPU will be cooler with less overall noise.


----------



## sherman85

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spork13*
> 
> Oops. For some reason I thought it was a 240mm rad. The case will fit 3 x 120mm fans in front.
> I daresay with some minor modding you could still fit a 280mm rad + a 120mm fan below it but you'd likely have too remove the HDD shroud.
> That wouldn't matter too much if you have only M2 drive + 2 x SSD.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> I know nycgtr is down on Evolv ATX, but the front flows plenty of air. It's the top that has limited flow. May users have Evolv ATX with no complaints. It's best to not use top, but I think @ciarlatano has front and top radiators with no issues. Mine is air cooled and works very well. CPU and GPU intake air temp is never more than 4-5c above room ambient, and that is stress testing both CPU and GPU at same time. In normal use CPU and GPU intake air is less than 3c above room ambient.
> 
> But using X62 in front means all intake air is being warmed by CPU heat, so GPU will be using pre-heated air. I would use an air cooler on CPU. A good air cooler is $50-80 and a couple of good intake fans likePH-F140MP for about$33 is $83-113 versus X62 costing about $150 .. CPU will be just as cool and GPU will be cooler with less overall noise.


Thanks all! Seems like this case doesn't really suits well for liquid cooler, unless I have to mod the top case so radiator mounted on the top won't be an issue.
Yeah btw, why is nycgtr is so down on this case?


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sherman85*
> 
> Thanks all! Seems like this case doesn't really suits well for liquid cooler, unless I have to mod the top case so radiator mounted on the top won't be an issue.
> Yeah btw, why is nycgtr is so down on this case?


Evolv ATX works fine with liquid cooling as well as air cooling .. but yeah, the top is not ideal for CLCs because they need high airflow to work well.

In other words you are correct if you want to use it with a CLC on CPU and air cooling on GPU .. but why are you using a CLC?

There are may problems with CLCs like poor quality, low pump flow rates, noisy pump, loud fans trying to flow enough air through low quality aluminum radiators, poor life expectancy (few last 3+ years without suffering loss of cooling ability), and the list goes on .. all ending up with a more expensive cooling choice that make more noise then a good air cooler. This is all compounded by the fact GPUs often generate way more heat then CPUs do, yet have much worse airflow separating then tower CPU coolers have.

Like I said before, don't use a CLC. Get a good air cooler and not have to worry about the pump going out in 2-3 years, have a quieter system, and not have to spend as much money.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sherman85*
> 
> Thanks all! Seems like this case doesn't really suits well for liquid cooler, unless I have to mod the top case so radiator mounted on the top won't be an issue.
> Yeah btw, why is nycgtr is so down on this case?


It suits liquid cooling just fine if you simply buy loop components that are correct for the environment they are going into.


----------



## sherman85

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Evolv ATX works fine with liquid cooling as well as air cooling .. but yeah, the top is not ideal for CLCs because they need high airflow to work well.
> 
> In other words you are correct if you want to use it with a CLC on CPU and air cooling on GPU .. but why are you using a CLC?
> 
> There are may problems with CLCs like poor quality, low pump flow rates, noisy pump, loud fans trying to flow enough air through low quality aluminum radiators, poor life expectancy (few last 3+ years without suffering loss of cooling ability), and the list goes on .. all ending up with a more expensive cooling choice that make more noise then a good air cooler. This is all compounded by the fact GPUs often generate way more heat then CPUs do, yet have much worse airflow separating then tower CPU coolers have.
> 
> Like I said before, don't use a CLC. Get a good air cooler and not have to worry about the pump going out in 2-3 years, have a quieter system, and not have to spend as much money.


Yup, I am aware and read on your past post encouraging people to use air instead of liquid








I knew air is definitely reliable as my CM V8 is still going strong today after 8 years.

Due to smaller footprints on Mobo and maybe aesthetic is why I may want to give AIO a try.


----------



## sherman85

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Evolv ATX works fine with liquid cooling as well as air cooling .. but yeah, the top is not ideal for CLCs because they need high airflow to work well.
> 
> In other words you are correct if you want to use it with a CLC on CPU and air cooling on GPU .. but why are you using a CLC?
> 
> There are may problems with CLCs like poor quality, low pump flow rates, noisy pump, loud fans trying to flow enough air through low quality aluminum radiators, poor life expectancy (few last 3+ years without suffering loss of cooling ability), and the list goes on .. all ending up with a more expensive cooling choice that make more noise then a good air cooler. This is all compounded by the fact GPUs often generate way more heat then CPUs do, yet have much worse airflow separating then tower CPU coolers have.
> 
> Like I said before, don't use a CLC. Get a good air cooler and not have to worry about the pump going out in 2-3 years, have a quieter system, and not have to spend as much money.


Yup, I am aware and read your past post on encouraging people to use air instead of liquid due to those issues.








I knew air is definitely reliable as my CM V8 still going strong today after 8 years.

May want to try AIO Due to small footprints on Mobo and maybe aesthetic but....


----------



## nycgtr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sherman85*
> 
> Thanks all! Seems like this case doesn't really suits well for liquid cooler, unless I have to mod the top case so radiator mounted on the top won't be an issue.
> Yeah btw, why is nycgtr is so down on this case?


I went thru a lot with the evolv. I ended up getting new rads just for case 2 360 gts to make things work. I did extend the front, and I cut the top open, this was before modmymods was selling the tops. They actually cut mine first then moved to selling cnc tops. At the end of the day, I had more than acceptable watercooling temps with the case. It was never horrific just coming from a huge case like the primo, 780t it was a let down. I liked the case look but cramming hardware in that thing wasn't fun. I modded the top fan bracket as well. However, it's a small case I had sli and everything in there, it does heat up fairly quickly. Putting a rad in the front means hotter air going thru the rad on top. I still have the case in the closet it might make a return in another build, but I also stopped using it as it was like all over the place. I don't want the exact same setup as everyone else. Lot's of attractive cases have come out since the TG that are good options so if I were shopping for that size atx case today I would look elsewhere.

Enjoying my primo again in the mean time. I guess I can't leave big cases. Some bends still need changing, but I got a monoblock shipping next week so Im not going to address them now.


----------



## jbach

Just wanted to share a recommendation

Anyone with or considering the Enthoo Luxe case and searching for a good AIO CPU WC,

Get a Swiftech H240X2 Prestige
You won't regret it. They were made for each other


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jbach*
> 
> Just wanted to share a recommendation
> 
> Anyone with or considering the Enthoo Luxe case and searching for a good AIO CPU WC,
> 
> Get a Swiftech H240X2 Prestige
> You won't regret it. They were made for each other


They really are. The H240-X2 is perfect in the Luxe.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jbach*
> 
> Just wanted to share a recommendation
> 
> Anyone with or considering the Enthoo Luxe case and searching for a good AIO CPU WC,
> 
> Get a Swiftech H240X2 Prestige
> You won't regret it. They were made for each other


I agree!
I wanted one for my Luxe, but lack of availability and extremely high prices here made it impractical.


----------



## nycgtr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> I agree!
> I wanted one for my Luxe, but lack of availability and extremely high prices here made it impractical.


Considering swiftech watercooling parts are on the lower end of the price range, some of the prices being charged for the prestige you could build your own for less form swiftech.


----------



## sherman85

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nycgtr*
> 
> I went thru a lot with the evolv. I ended up getting new rads just for case 2 360 gts to make things work. I did extend the front, and I cut the top open, this was before modmymods was selling the tops. They actually cut mine first then moved to selling cnc tops. At the end of the day, I had more than acceptable watercooling temps with the case. It was never horrific just coming from a huge case like the primo, 780t it was a let down. I liked the case look but cramming hardware in that thing wasn't fun. I modded the top fan bracket as well. However, it's a small case I had sli and everything in there, it does heat up fairly quickly. Putting a rad in the front means hotter air going thru the rad on top. I still have the case in the closet it might make a return in another build, but I also stopped using it as it was like all over the place. I don't want the exact same setup as everyone else. Lot's of attractive cases have come out since the TG that are good options so if I were shopping for that size atx case today I would look elsewhere.
> 
> Enjoying my primo again in the mean time. I guess I can't leave big cases. Some bends still need changing, but I got a monoblock shipping next week so Im not going to address them now.


I see you are really having a hard time back then!









With SLI and 2 360 AIO, this case not gonna work for sure.
The design of the front panel really do attracts me compare to other cases









Thanks for sharing and btw how do I delete my duplicated post on the above? I couldn't find any options.


----------



## Dartulius

Searching the thread is failing me so if anyone could help me out I'd appreciate it.

The Evolve mATX does fit both a 360mm in the front and a 240mm up top simultaneously, correct? If yes, what thicknesses work? Dual 45mm?

Thanks!


----------



## TheAbyss

Hello Group, I Need advice or at least a profound guess . I have a Luxe and was thinking about removing the lower part cover below the external drive Cages in order to see my Reservoir and to Mount a 280 rad in the front.. do you think it may be too much loss of structural integrity to do so?


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheAbyss*
> 
> Hello Group, I Need advice or at least a profound guess . I have a Luxe and was thinking about removing the lower part cover below the external drive Cages in order to see my Reservoir and to Mount a 280 rad in the front.. do you think it may be too much loss of structural integrity to do so?


If you mean the panel on left side near front of case from below 5.25" optical drive bays to bottom of case, yes, it can be removed without too much loss of structural integrity. The motherboard tray keeps case structurally intact.


----------



## Roxycon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dartulius*
> 
> Searching the thread is failing me so if anyone could help me out I'd appreciate it.
> 
> The Evolve mATX does fit both a 360mm in the front and a 240mm up top simultaneously, correct? If yes, what thicknesses work? Dual 45mm?
> 
> Thanks!


Front 360 have to be under 126mm wide, found that the EK slim series fits best here. Cant really go thicker than the slim series, barely enough Space for my GTX1080 FE and the res in the bottom. For the rad up top, Your MB and RAM will be the limiting factor, and do remember to Count in the thickness of the fans - i use a EK PE type up top while still being able to take the ram in and out


----------



## TheAbyss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> If you mean the panel on left side near front of case from below 5.25" optical drive bays to bottom of case, yes, it can be removed without too much loss of structural integrity. The motherboard tray keeps case structurally intact.


Thanks Doyll, that´s what I hoped. I´d like to enlarge the case a bit while staying below Primo-size, and looking at the current market Situation, there is no real alternative to the Luxe from my Point of view that would be a material improvement while being the same size.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheAbyss*
> 
> Thanks Doyll, that´s what I hoped. I´d like to enlarge the case a bit while staying below Primo-size, and looking at the current market Situation, there is no real alternative to the Luxe from my Point of view that would be a material improvement while being the same size.


I agree. I have a Primo and moved the build from it into Luxe with no problems. All but one of my systems are air cooled now. Got to the point custom loops were more work than they were worth now that we have good air coolers for both CPU and GPU. Also much lower cost.


----------



## TheAbyss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> I agree. I have a Primo and moved the build from it into Luxe with no problems. All but one of my systems are air cooled now. Got to the point custom loops were more work than they were worth now that we have good air coolers for both CPU and GPU. Also much lower cost.


It´s my first hard tube Loop now working for a couple of months, so I am still excited about it. That may be subject to Change in the future, but for now, I´ll rip the System apart around Christmas now that I have some more experiences and make a Version 2 with a different MoBo. It´s working flawlessly, but there is some room for improvement (and another board and CPU block I´d like to test). All bling bling choices and actually no "real" benefit other than Looks and cooler temperature / lower noise Level..


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheAbyss*
> 
> It´s my first hard tube Loop now working for a couple of months, so I am still excited about it. That may be subject to Change in the future, but for now, I´ll rip the System apart around Christmas now that I have some more experiences and make a Version 2 with a different MoBo. It´s working flawlessly, but there is some room for improvement (and another board and CPU block I´d like to test). All bling bling choices and actually no "real" benefit other than Looks and cooler temperature / lower noise Level..


I like the looks of a good hard tube build, and I can appreciate those who enjoy building a nice H2O system. But a good air cooled system is definitely as quiet with temp well within safe range .. my CPU peaks at about 60c and GPU is about 65c when stress testing and fans are just loud enough to hear and know system is working it's butt off. I do have a be quiet! Silent Loop 280mm in one system on i7 980X and like it very much. I hate CLCs but Silent Loop is not a CLC. It has copper radiator, proper fittings real hose, silent/very quiet pump and fans and a fill plug for maintenance. Only AIO I know of that is better is Swiftech H series. And of course custom loops are better, but also much more expensive.


----------



## TheAbyss

Signed, but since I already spend the Money, I´d like to capitalize as much as possible on it.. Having said that, I´ll rip the Loop apart and rebuild it to get the best out of it..and I have stumble across a Gigabyte Z270X Gaming 9 very cheaply and I´d like to see how much LED bling bling I can survive and actually make it good looking.. with a lot of Hand made acrylic Sheets in the case...


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheAbyss*
> 
> Signed, but since I already spend the Money, I´d like to capitalize as much as possible on it.. Having said that, I´ll rip the Loop apart and rebuild it to get the best out of it..and I have stumble across a Gigabyte Z270X Gaming 9 very cheaply and I´d like to see how much LED bling bling I can survive and actually make it good looking.. with a lot of Hand made acrylic Sheets in the case...


Look foward to seeing how it all turns out.


----------



## flameas

Any Luxe TG owners?

Kinda like the case, but cant really decide if I should buy or not. How is the cooling performance? How are the stock fans?


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *flameas*
> 
> Any Luxe TG owners?
> 
> Kinda like the case, but cant really decide if I should buy or not. How is the cooling performance? How are the stock fans?


I have Luxe, but not TG. Same basic case. I got my white one when they first came out and still really like it.


----------



## nycgtr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *flameas*
> 
> Any Luxe TG owners?
> 
> Kinda like the case, but cant really decide if I should buy or not. How is the cooling performance? How are the stock fans?


I regret not getting a luxe tg instead of the evolv tg for real.


----------



## flameas

Are the included fans these http://www.phanteks.com/PH-F140XP.html ?


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *flameas*
> 
> Any Luxe TG owners?
> 
> Kinda like the case, but cant really decide if I should buy or not. How is the cooling performance? How are the stock fans?


Sorry, missed your question about fans. The Enthoo Luxe Tempered Glass has the junk PH-F200SP replaced with I assume four of the newer case fans. With 2x front intakes in front and 1x top fan moved to bottom as intake you will have good airflow. I'm using just 2x front and 1x bottom intake with no exhaust fan and have great case airflow


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *flameas*
> 
> Are the included fans these http://www.phanteks.com/PH-F140XP.html ?


No, they are a newer version of PH-F140SP that uses a PH-F140MP like impeller.

The original Phanteks 140mm PH-F140SP case fans look like this but without vibration pads in corners. Both black and white impellers were used.
 

Phanteks replaced them with a fan that looks like this without vibration pads in corners. Both black and white impellers are used. As far as I can tell it's the same variable voltage motor and housing as used in PH-F140SP with the same impeller as used in PH-F140MP / PH-F140HP_II fans.
 

While specifications for there newer case fans (in cases for about 16 months now) say it has lower CFM and about same mm H2O, in use it performs a little better than PH-F140SP case fans. The new impeller moves more air and had higher static pressure at lower rpm.

Here is independent testing by US Hardware to give you an idea of the performance. The difference between black/black and black/white PH-F140MP is most likely the black/white is running 100-300 rpm faster than black/black fan. Motor speed specification is +/-10% which for a 1200rpm fan is from 1080-1320rpm. Too bad US Hardware doesn't give fan rpm in test results.


----------



## flameas

Thanks for that!

I guess with the included hub these fans will be just fine. No need to get 20 dollar Silent Wings 3 fans right away


----------



## TheAbyss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *flameas*
> 
> Thanks for that!
> 
> I guess with the included hub these fans will be just fine. No need to get 20 dollar Silent Wings 3 fans right away


When used as case fans, no need to spend extra money I think (even though I had the older PH-F140SP shipped with my black non-TG Luxe).


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *flameas*
> 
> Thanks for that!
> 
> I guess with the included hub these fans will be just fine. No need to get 20 dollar Silent Wings 3 fans right away


What TheAbyss said.
The stock fans work very well with included fan hub.


----------



## bajer29

OK, I'm going to ask again since this is driving me crazy. I've tried SYS_FAN3 and CPU_OPT with the Phanteks fan hub and neither of these will show fan RPM in speedfan (uncontrollable). The 3 case fans I have connected to the hub seem to run around 70 or 80% consistently (no way of knowing exactly). I've not tried any of the other headers yet as I'll have to tear down the CPU cooler as I've had little to no time to do so. I'll get to it eventually.

Here is my header pin-out from my mobo manual.



Can anyone add some input as to what I'm doing wrong or if the hub is not working correctly?

Everything is connected properly on the fan hub. I've verified multiple times. Speedfan worked with single fans with no problem before using this hub (previous case used all CPU and fan headers which were controllable with speedfan).

EDIT: the SATA 12V is plugged into the PSU.


----------



## nycgtr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bajer29*
> 
> OK, I'm going to ask again since this is driving me crazy. I've tried SYS_FAN3 and CPU_OPT with the Phanteks fan hub and neither of these will show fan RPM in speedfan (uncontrollable). The 3 case fans I have connected to the hub seem to run around 70 or 80% consistently (no way of knowing exactly). I've not tried any of the other headers yet as I'll have to tear down the CPU cooler as I've had little to no time to do so. I'll get to it eventually.
> 
> Here is my header pin-out from my mobo manual.
> 
> 
> 
> Can anyone add some input as to what I'm doing wrong or if the hub is not working correctly?
> 
> Everything is connected properly on the fan hub. I've verified multiple times. Speedfan worked with single fans with no problem before using this hub (previous case used all CPU and fan headers which were controllable with speedfan).
> 
> EDIT: the SATA 12V is plugged into the PSU.


CPU OPT is a duplicate of whatever CPU fan is. You can't control cpu opt only control CPU_FAN. As for the hub make sure you've connected the power. There's a cable that runs from the hub to the motherboard, this tells the hub to run every fan attached to it at a set speed. The manual looks to be asus, so make sure in fan control inside the bios you have it set to PWM.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bajer29*
> 
> OK, I'm going to ask again since this is driving me crazy. I've tried SYS_FAN3 and CPU_OPT with the Phanteks fan hub and neither of these will show fan RPM in speedfan (uncontrollable). The 3 case fans I have connected to the hub seem to run around 70 or 80% consistently (no way of knowing exactly). I've not tried any of the other headers yet as I'll have to tear down the CPU cooler as I've had little to no time to do so. I'll get to it eventually.
> 
> Here is my header pin-out from my mobo manual.
> 
> 
> 
> Can anyone add some input as to what I'm doing wrong or if the hub is not working correctly?
> 
> Everything is connected properly on the fan hub. I've verified multiple times. Speedfan worked with single fans with no problem before using this hub (previous case used all CPU and fan headers which were controllable with speedfan).
> 
> EDIT: the SATA 12V is plugged into the PSU.


First off, the Phanteks PWM fan hub is not a PWM fan hub, but a PWM controlled variavble voltage fan hub. The name is maddeningly misleading.

Seems you don't understand what your manual fan header pinout drawing is saying. ..it shows only the CPU_FAN having 12v on pin-2 and speed control on pin-4. Pin-4 is PWM. All other fan header pinout show pin-2 as speed control .. which is variable voltage control as used by 3-pin fans. Pin-4 vcc is unused pin.

To monitor rpm you have to plug fan you want to monitor rpm from into 'FAN1' header on PWM fan hub. That is the only fan header on hub that monitors rpm.

PWM fan headers have constant 12v on pin-2. PWM fan headers have PWM control signal on pin-4 that signal a PCB circuit in the fan to pulse this constant 12v power to fan motor. This is how PWM controls the fan motor's speed.

It is very common for motherboard fan header pinout to have pin-4 mislabeled with VCC, +5v etc. Labeling with Vcc/VCC is often misused by motherboard industry.

The thing to remember is if pin-4 is not labeled 'PWM' or 'speed control' it is not a PWM controled fan header.
Another way to tell is what pin-2 is labels as.
If pin-2 is '12v' and pin-4 is 'PWM' or 'control' it is probably a PWM header
If pin-2 is 'variable voltage' or 'speed controlled' then it is definitely not a PWM header.

What nycgtr said, except not all CPU_OPT fan headers are same as CPU_FAN. On some motherboards the CPU_OPT is not PWM. This is why PHanteks PWM controlled variable voltage fan hub manual says to use CPU fan header.


----------



## bajer29

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nycgtr*
> 
> CPU OPT is a duplicate of whatever CPU fan is. You can't control cpu opt only control CPU_FAN. As for the hub make sure you've connected the power. There's a cable that runs from the hub to the motherboard, this tells the hub to run every fan attached to it at a set speed. The manual looks to be asus, so make sure in fan control inside the bios you have it set to PWM.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> First off, the Phanteks PWM fan hub is not a PWM fan hub, but a PWM controlled variavble voltage fan hub. The name is maddeningly misleading.
> 
> Seems you don't understand what your manual fan header pinout drawing is saying. ..it shows only the CPU_FAN having 12v on pin-2 and speed control on pin-4. Pin-4 is PWM. All other fan header pinout show pin-2 as speed control .. which is variable voltage control as used by 3-pin fans. Pin-4 vcc is unused pin.
> 
> To monitor rpm you have to plug fan you want to monitor rpm from into 'FAN1' header on PWM fan hub. That is the only fan header on hub that monitors rpm.
> 
> PWM fan headers have constant 12v on pin-2. PWM fan headers have PWM control signal on pin-4 that signal a PCB circuit in the fan to pulse this constant 12v power to fan motor. This is how PWM controls the fan motor's speed.
> 
> It is very common for motherboard fan header pinout to have pin-4 mislabeled with VCC, +5v etc. Labeling with Vcc/VCC is often misused by motherboard industry.
> 
> The thing to remember is if pin-4 is not labeled 'PWM' or 'speed control' it is not a PWM controled fan header.
> Another way to tell is what pin-2 is labels as.
> If pin-2 is '12v' and pin-4 is 'PWM' or 'control' it is probably a PWM header
> If pin-2 is 'variable voltage' or 'speed controlled' then it is definitely not a PWM header.
> 
> What nycgtr said, except not all CPU_OPT fan headers are same as CPU_FAN. On some motherboards the CPU_OPT is not PWM. This is why PHanteks PWM controlled variable voltage fan hub manual says to use CPU fan header.


Thanks you two. I really don't know the first thing about pin-outs tbh. I've never sleeved or replaced headers/ cable connectors so it's a bit new to me and the fan hub's manual was a killer to understand. To me VCC and Speed Control meant the same, and sense meant that it was able to read fan RPM.

That being said both of your explanations were helpful. I appreciate you walking me through this. I guess I'll try tearing out the cooler to get to CPU_1 and see if that will work. What was clear was that the manual said to plug into CPU_1. I figured I could get away with plugging the hub into another header to keep CPU and case fans set to different RPMs, linked to different temp sensors, on separate fan curves within speedfan.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bajer29*
> 
> Thanks you two. I really don't know the first thing about pin-outs tbh. I've never sleeved or replaced headers/ cable connectors so it's a bit new to me and the fan hub's manual was a killer to understand. To me VCC and Speed Control meant the same, and sense meant that it was able to read fan RPM.
> 
> That being said both of your explanations were helpful. I appreciate you walking me through this. I guess I'll try tearing out the cooler to get to CPU_1 and see if that will work. What was clear was that the manual said to plug into CPU_1. I figured I could get away with plugging the hub into another header to keep CPU and case fans set to different RPMs, linked to different temp sensors, on separate fan curves within speedfan.


The manual says plug into CPU_1 because there is a much better chance of it being a real PWM header then any other 4-pin fan header. As you have found out not all motherboard 4-pin fan headers are PWM .. and that not even all motherboard with PWM on CPU_FAN have PWM control on CPU_OPT fan header .









You could use a PWM splitter to send PWM signal to fan hub on on side and to CPU fan on the other.

What CPU cooler do you have?


----------



## bajer29

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> The manual says plug into CPU_1 because there is a much better chance of it being a real PWM header then any other 4-pin fan header. As you have found out not all motherboard 4-pin fan headers are PWM .. and that not even all motherboard with PWM on CPU_FAN have PWM control on CPU_OPT fan header .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You could use a PWM splitter to send PWM signal to fan hub on on side and to CPU fan on the other.
> 
> What CPU cooler do you have?


Pssshhh you know this







. I post in Cryorig's thread a lot since I got the R1 Ult. Remember my "trolling". It's also in my sig.

By getting a PWM splitter, will I be able to control fan speeds individually (hub/ CPU)? How does that work?


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bajer29*
> 
> Pssshhh you know this
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . I post in Cryorig's thread a lot since I got the R1 Ult. Remember my "trolling". It's also in my sig.
> 
> By getting a PWM splitter, will I be able to control fan speeds individually (hub/ CPU)? How does that work?


Sorry, I talk to so many people combined with becoming quite absent minded means I forget things .. what were we talking about?









Probably not because both the fan hub and cooler fans will be using the same PWM signal. While cooler fans may not be at same speed as case fans, if all case fans are the same model fan then all case fans will spin at same speed.

I'd ask what case fans you have but you would probably accuse me of forgetting again.


----------



## bajer29

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Sorry, I talk to so many people combined with becoming quite absent minded means I forget things .. what were we talking about?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Probably not because both the fan hub and cooler fans will be using the same PWM signal. While cooler fans may not be at same speed as case fans, if all case fans are the same model fan then all case fans will spin at same speed.
> 
> I'd ask what case fans you have but you would probably accuse me of forgetting again.


You did ask before... but the case fans are the Phanteks that came with the case and the rear exhaust is the Corsair AF fan that you gave me crap about earlier.







I'm only using 3 of the 4 fan headers on the hub atm. So is a splitter necessary to keep the CPU fans spinning at an RPM that is not influenced by the hub?


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bajer29*
> 
> You did ask before... but the case fans are the Phanteks that came with the case and the rear exhaust is the Corsair AF fan that you gave me crap about earlier.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm only using 3 of the 4 fan headers on the hub atm. So is a splitter necessary to keep the CPU fans spinning at an RPM that is not influenced by the hub?


To power the R1 cooler fans with PWM signal you need to use a PWM splitter on CPU_FAN header.
If you plug them into Phanteks fan hub they will be running on variable voltage, not PWM.
PWM fan hub has 6 fan headers, not 4.

I suggest using something like the Gelid PWM 1-to-4 Splitter. Definitely don't use the Akasa PWM splitter because it has too many leads terminating in each connection and wires stress fitique and break of at connector.
http://gelidsolutions.com/thermal-solutions/accessories-pwm-1-to-4-splitter/

First is image of the Gelid PWM 1-to-4 Splitter compared to 2nd image of Akasa PMW splitter


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bajer29*
> 
> You did ask before... but the case fans are the Phanteks that came with the case and the rear exhaust is the Corsair AF fan that you gave me crap about earlier.


Can I get a turn?









Why would you replace a Phanteks fan with a Corsair AF???? Change that back.


----------



## bajer29

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> To power the R1 cooler fans with PWM signal you need to use a PWM splitter on CPU_FAN header.
> If you plug them into Phanteks fan hub they will be running on variable voltage, not PWM.
> PWM fan hub has 6 fan headers, not 4.
> 
> I suggest using something like the Gelid PWM 1-to-4 Splitter. Definitely don't use the Akasa PWM splitter because it has too many leads terminating in each connection and wires stress fitique and break of at connector.
> http://gelidsolutions.com/thermal-solutions/accessories-pwm-1-to-4-splitter/
> 
> First is image of the Gelid PWM 1-to-4 Splitter compared to 2nd image of Akasa PMW splitter


Yeah you're right, 6 not 4 headers... Thanks, I'll take a look at pricing this week.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Can I get a turn?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Why would you replace a Phanteks fan with a Corsair AF???? Change that back.


I didn't. It only came with 2 front 140mm fans... The AF is in the back where there was no fan.


----------



## flameas

It says expandable RGB lighting. Can I use any 12V RGB strips or just Phanteks ones?


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bajer29*
> 
> Yeah you're right, 6 not 4 headers... Thanks, I'll take a look at pricing this week.
> I didn't. It only came with 2 front 140mm fans... The AF is in the back where there was no fan.


Hmmmm.... I was going to say that it's better than nothing....but it's an AF....so I'm not sure that is actually the case.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bajer29*
> 
> Yeah you're right, 6 not 4 headers... Thanks, I'll take a look at pricing this week.
> I didn't. It only came with 2 front 140mm fans... The AF is in the back where there was no fan.


Basically what ciarlatano said. AF isn't much good .. probably not much if any better than no exhaust fan.


----------



## CanadiaNikon

Hi All,

I just joined the club with the purchase of a P400S Tempered Glass Edition (black). i am taking my upgrade slowly and working with a restrictive budget as I lost my job mid-June and have been out of work since.

As a result I plan on installing a "dreaded" AIO for my cooling solution. I will be using a Liquid Freezer 240 (in push/pull) with top and rear intake fans and PCI-E plates removed. I have a quick question.....



It is recommended for users with the top radiator bracket (Pro M, Evolv, etc.) to block all openings around the rad/fans to prevent hot air returning to the inside of the chassis. In the case of the P400S, with the HDD cage being under the PSU shroud, should I block the area highlighted in red or allow the front panel to deflect air (across the HDD cage) into the shroud? All other openings under the front panel will be blocked.

I appreciate your feedback.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CanadiaNikon*
> 
> Hi All,
> 
> I just joined the club with the purchase of a P400S Tempered Glass Edition (black). i am taking my upgrade slowly and working with a restrictive budget as I lost my job mid-June and have been out of work since.
> 
> As a result I plan on installing a "dreaded" AIO for my cooling solution. I will be using a Liquid Freezer 240 (in push/pull) with top and rear intake fans and PCI-E plates removed. I have a quick question.....
> 
> 
> 
> It is recommended for users with the top radiator bracket (Pro M, Evolv, etc.) to block all openings around the rad/fans to prevent hot air returning to the inside of the chassis. In the case of the P400S, with the HDD cage being under the PSU shroud, should I block the area highlighted in red or allow the front panel to deflect air (across the HDD cage) into the shroud? All other openings under the front panel will be blocked.
> 
> I appreciate your feedback.


Being on a restrictive budget why are you getting a Liquid Freezer 240 instead of a good air cooler? Unless you already have the LQ 240 a good air cooler is probably lower priced.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Being on a restrictive budget why are you getting a Liquid Freezer 240 instead of a good air cooler? Unless you already have the LQ 240 a good air cooler is probably lower priced.


I was thinking the same, but assumed the CLC must have been a leftover from a previous build.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> I was thinking the same, but assumed the CLC must have been a leftover from a previous build.


You know better than to think that.















It's possible, but more often then not peeps buy CLCs instead of air thinking it is the lower cost way.


----------



## brian-phanteks

SERVICE ANNOUNCEMENT
We are aware of the issue with the support email ([email protected]) not being able to receive emails. The issue should now have been taken care of. If you are still unable to get through to [email protected] we have set up a temporary email address [email protected] for any service related issued for the Americas.

Brian


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brian-phanteks*
> 
> SERVICE ANNOUNCEMENT
> We are aware of the issue with the support email ([email protected]) not being able to receive emails. The issue should now have been taken care of. If you are still unable to get through to [email protected] we have set up a temporary email address [email protected] for any service related issued for the Americas.
> 
> Brian


Thanks Brian!








Shows how good Phanteks support is; hadn't even heard there was a problem.


----------



## Essenbe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brian-phanteks*
> 
> SERVICE ANNOUNCEMENT
> We are aware of the issue with the support email ([email protected]) not being able to receive emails. The issue should now have been taken care of. If you are still unable to get through to [email protected] we have set up a temporary email address [email protected] for any service related issued for the Americas.
> 
> Brian


Thanks Brian, good to know.


----------



## Nauticle

Hey folks I got a couple quick questions regarding the Pro M case

1) How secure are the HDDKT_02 units? Is there added noise from vibrations when they are being used?

2) When adding a 80mm fan at the bottom (if the 2x140 are moved to the top/mid positions) it should just snugly fit underneath the middle fan right? Any suggestions on what 80mm fan to get.

3) Aside from blocking off the sides around the 80mm fan, is there anything else I should do when moving the 140mm fans higher up?

4) Would I need 2 exhaust fans for a build using a NH-D15 (using the fans it comes with) and a XFX R9 290x Triple Dissipation (which may be upgraded to an aftermarket V56 if they ever come out)? If only needing one, should I use a 120mm or 140mm at the rear?

5) What is the RGB button that comes with the Pro M SE?

Thank you


----------



## bajer29

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nauticle*
> 
> Hey folks I got a couple quick questions regarding the Pro M case
> 
> 1) How secure are the HDDKT_02 units? Is there added noise from vibrations when they are being used?
> 
> 2) When adding a 80mm fan at the bottom (if the 2x140 are moved to the top/mid positions) it should just snugly fit underneath the middle fan right? Any suggestions on what 80mm fan to get.
> 
> 3) Aside from blocking off the sides around the 80mm fan, is there anything else I should do when moving the 140mm fans higher up?
> 
> 4) Would I need 2 exhaust fans for a build using a NH-D15 (using the fans it comes with) and a XFX R9 290x Triple Dissipation (which may be upgraded to an aftermarket V56 if they ever come out)? If only needing one, should I use a 120mm or 140mm at the rear?
> 
> 5) What is the RGB button that comes with the Pro M SE?
> 
> Thank you


1) They do not come with the SE so I'm not sure
2) Snugly enough that the 140mm fan will hold it in place
3) Make sure the lower 140mm fan has a bit of pressure on the top of the 80mm to keep it from vibrating/ moving.
4) doyll will tell you to leave the exhaust fans off and just use the front as intake (especially if you're moving the front fans up with an 80mm down below). Test the case with just intake fans first.
5) The RGB controller is built in. I believe it uses the PC reset button as the color change button (integrated into the case). All it does is select a color. There is no dimmer included in the controller. The case's RGB controller is expandable in that you can add more light strips or fan halos later on. I will say, they don't leave you a whole lot of slack if you decide to get LED light strips or decide on controlling the LEDs from the RGB header on your mobo. You may need to get a Phanteks LED adapter to reach your mobo to give more length to work with.


----------



## CanadiaNikon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Being on a restrictive budget why are you getting a Liquid Freezer 240 instead of a good air cooler? Unless you already have the LQ 240 a good air cooler is probably lower priced.


Yes. I already own the LF240.

I had so hoped that my post would receive quality feedback rather than the elitist attitude about "another dumb schmuck who bought a CLC" that litters this thread. Foolish me, apparently.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CanadiaNikon*
> 
> Yes. I already own the LF240.
> 
> I had so hoped that my post would receive quality feedback rather than the elitist attitude about "another dumb schmuck who bought a CLC" that litters this thread. Foolish me, apparently.


You are not going to get much help saying things like you just did.

My post in no way was a put-down to your mentality .. nor was it said in an elitist attitude.

But your reply shows you to be what you said someone with elitist attitude might say.









I would have helped you setup your system even with a CLC, but after seeing your attitude toward me after I asked a simple question and said good air coolers cost less the CLC why should I?

That CLCs are not being as good as air coolers costing less money is a proven fact, not just here in Phanteks case thread but anywhere people who have done accurate testing post up. It's only wanna-be-water peeps believing CLC advertising hype and shill reviews who think CLCs are better then a good air cooler. To get a better pre-assembled and filled liquid cooler you need to get a AIO that is not a CLC.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CanadiaNikon*
> 
> Yes. I already own the LF240.
> 
> I had so hoped that my post would receive quality feedback rather than the elitist attitude about "another dumb schmuck who bought a CLC" that litters this thread. Foolish me, apparently.


A little defensive there, aren't ya Sparky?

@doyll was merely pointing out that an air cooler would have been much more cost effective in response to you saying you are on a restricted budget. That is a correct statement. He even said "Unless you already have the LQ 240" as a qualifier.

Relax. No one called you, or even insinuated that you are a dumb schmuck.

I didn't give you any feedback for the sole reason that I am completely unfamiliar with that case, had nothing to do with your CLC.


----------



## Nauticle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bajer29*
> 
> 1) They do not come with the SE so I'm not sure
> 2) Snugly enough that the 140mm fan will hold it in place
> 3) Make sure the lower 140mm fan has a bit of pressure on the top of the 80mm to keep it from vibrating/ moving.
> 4) doyll will tell you to leave the exhaust fans off and just use the front as intake (especially if you're moving the front fans up with an 80mm down below). Test the case with just intake fans first.
> 5) The RGB controller is built in. I believe it uses the PC reset button as the color change button (integrated into the case). All it does is select a color. There is no dimmer included in the controller. The case's RGB controller is expandable in that you can add more light strips or fan halos later on. I will say, they don't leave you a whole lot of slack if you decide to get LED light strips or decide on controlling the LEDs from the RGB header on your mobo. You may need to get a Phanteks LED adapter to reach your mobo to give more length to work with.


Thanks for the reply!

1) Yeah I know they don't come with the case, I was just wondering if anybody had bought some and tried them out.
2,3) Thanks for the tip
4) Will do
5) Thanks for the information.

Has anybody tried the PH-HDDKT-02 on any case? How secure are they when fitted with a hard drive and do they add any extra noise from vibrations?

Thanks.


----------



## trez00b

Speaking of coolers, I'm still undecided on what to do with the P300 build. This lil case has a clearance of 160mm for coolers. I've been out of the game for a few years but I'm a real sucker for aesthetics. Any recommendations for an aesthetically pleasing looking cooler that also performs well, is under 160mm in height and also doesn't cost an arm and a leg?

I'd love to get a NZXT Kraken x62 in there solely for the aesthetic but dang that cooler cost over twice the price of the case itself.







So far the build will be themed around my ASROCK Fatal1ty X370 Gaming X motherboard. Open to any suggestions.


----------



## x3tsniper

Finally put water cooling in a phanteks case. Third time was the charm.




Will be exploring putting together a cage for the bottom of the elite and then I can empty out my current cases drives.


----------



## nycgtr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *x3tsniper*
> 
> 
> 
> Finally put water cooling in a phanteks case. Third time was the charm.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Will be exploring putting together a cage for the bottom of the elite and then I can empty out my current cases drives.


That elite is crying for more hardware. There's less in there than my primo


----------



## CanadiaNikon

Thank you doyll.









I spent a great deal of time reviewing the recommended thread this afternoon. It is a wealth of information.

I am still unclear as to whether or not I should block off the area marked in red or whether I should allow exhaust air to flow under the psu shroud.

Your thoughts?


----------



## trez00b

P300 build is coming along slowly but surely. I'm thinking of busting out the dremel and file to remove this little bit for ultra clean 24 pin cable management purposes.




I'm also wondering if it's even worthwhile to put 140's in the front. As you can see from the picture below it looks like the case offers no extra airflow for 140's due to the placement of the 140mm mounts and lack of extra cutout(you can see the offset mounts to the left of the fan cutout). It also seems as though there is little to possibly no 280mm radiator support which is a bit of a bummer. Dimitri from Hardware Canucks already confirmed in his review video that the NZXT Kraken x62 does not fit and reading some reviews on Newegg one person mentioned the Corsair H115i won't fit either.



I originally planned to do an air cooled cpu cooler but I kind of want to go with an AIO solely for aesthetic purposes.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CanadiaNikon*
> 
> 
> 
> Thank you doyll.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I spent a great deal of time reviewing the recommended thread this afternoon. It is a wealth of information.
> 
> I am still unclear as to whether or not I should block off the area marked in red or whether I should allow exhaust air to flow under the psu shroud.
> 
> Your thoughts?


I don't know. That area supplies airflow to HDDs in the bottom compartment. Best way to find out is experiment and see which way gives best temps for all components.


----------



## trez00b

No input on the front intake of the P300 master @doyll ?

maybe I should try being passive aggressive







seems to work better around here.


----------



## SOCOM_HERO

Is there a way to add captive thumb screws to a Phanteks case?


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *trez00b*
> 
> I'm also wondering if it's even worthwhile to put 140's in the front. As you can see from the picture below it looks like the case offers no extra airflow for 140's due to the placement of the 140mm mounts and lack of extra cutout(you can see the offset mounts to the left of the fan cutout).


That was covered a couple of pages back, albeit in regard to the Evolv ATX/Pro M. 140's do, indeed, give you more airflow.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *trez00b*
> 
> It also seems as though there is little to possibly no 280mm radiator support which is a bit of a bummer. Dimitri from Hardware Canucks already confirmed in his review video that the NZXT Kraken x62 does not fit and reading some reviews on Newegg one person mentioned the Corsair H115i won't fit either.


Given that the Kraken X62 and H115i are the same cooler with different brand names slapped on them.....if one doesn't fit, neither will the other. 240mm rad being the max is well documented.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *trez00b*
> 
> I originally planned to do an air cooled cpu cooler but I kind of want to go with an AIO solely for aesthetic purposes.


Aesthetics are really subjective. I mean *really* subjective.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *trez00b*
> 
> No input on the front intake of the P300 master @doyll ?
> 
> maybe I should try being passive aggressive
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> seems to work better around here.


Just call him grouchy and tell him he is wrong about something. Works every time. Works on me every time, too, come to think of it......








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SOCOM_HERO*
> 
> Is there a way to add captive thumb screws to a Phanteks case?


Sure, just get the right size and thread for where you are intending to use them.


----------



## CanadiaNikon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> I don't know. That area supplies airflow to HDDs in the bottom compartment. Best way to find out is experiment and see which way gives best temps for all components.


Hmmm....there is room for another 120mm fan at the bottom of the rad mount but I am thinking an intake there would likely create a "loop" and really screw with my case temps.


----------



## pez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Just call him grouchy and tell him he is wrong about something. Works every time. Works on me every time, too, come to think of it......


Just LOL.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Awaiting my next case, first Phanteks case. Can't wait to get to work in it. (glad ordered it when I did - price jumped up a bit)
Project Gray Scale


Bench testing components - i7 6900k & x99 Deluxe (AiO is for bench testing)


----------



## pez

Was about to ask how you got that price







. I was tempted to pull the trigger on that







.


----------



## pez

I just have to tell myself "if you go ATX or mATX, you're gonna want to upgrade, too" and then I end up with a cart around $1500 and then proceed to close all of my tabs








.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CanadiaNikon*
> 
> Hmmm....there is room for another 120mm fan at the bottom of the rad mount but I am thinking an intake there would likely create a "loop" and really screw with my case temps.


You want all front fans flowing air the same direction. You may try baiting me at times, but i don't think you are as dumb as you sometimes act.









I don't have a P300 so I don't know a lot about it. That is why I don't reply to posts about it.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Just call him grouchy and tell him he is wrong about something. Works every time. Works on me every time, too, come to think of it......


Pot, kettle and black come to mind.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Awaiting my next case, first Phanteks case. Can't wait to get to work in it. (glad ordered it when I did - price jumped up a bit)
> Project Gray Scale
> 
> 
> Bench testing components - i7 6900k & x99 Deluxe (AiO is for bench testing)


That should make a very nice system!








What are you going to cool it with?
Mhy guess is the 2x 140mm included case fans as front intakes should give you enough airflow.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Pot, kettle and black come to mind.


Absolutely. And I freely admit it.


----------



## SOCOM_HERO

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> That was covered a couple of pages back, albeit in regard to the Evolv ATX/Pro M. 140's do, indeed, give you more airflow.
> Given that the Kraken X62 and H115i are the same cooler with different brand names slapped on them.....if one doesn't fit, neither will the other. 240mm rad being the max is well documented.
> Aesthetics are really subjective. I mean *really* subjective.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just call him grouchy and tell him he is wrong about something. Works every time. Works on me every time, too, come to think of it......
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sure, just get the right size and thread for where you are intending to use them.


Where can I find these screws? They seem unusually hard to come by.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> You want all front fans flowing air the same direction. You may try baiting me at times, but i don't think you are as dumb as you sometimes act.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't have a P300 so I don't know a lot about it. That is why I don't reply to posts about it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Pot, kettle and black come to mind.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That should make a very nice system!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What are you going to cool it with?
> Mhy guess is the 2x 140mm included case fans as front intakes should give you enough airflow.


I am up in the air on using the 2 140's in the front, I have a Mayhem's Havoc 240 rad that I plan on using and shopping for a 360 as well. Also have EK blocks for my CPU and GPU as well that match the block already on the board (which came with it). Already have dual d5's planned that will be pulled from my 303 build (Temper Tantrum) but have to attach those to the dual pump top w/ dress kits and still have 16mm tubing to order for the fittings I already have.


----------



## CanadiaNikon

Quote:


> You want all front fans flowing air the same direction. You may try baiting me at times, but i don't think you are as dumb as you sometimes act. I don't have a P300 so I don't know a lot about it. That is why I don't reply to posts about it.


I'm not baiting anyone, nor do I own a P300. I think you have confused an actual request for input with something that it's certainly not.









No big deal. I've got a line on a temp probe and will be assembling my case for testing in the next few days. Thanks anyway.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CanadiaNikon*
> 
> I'm not baiting anyone, nor do I own a P300. I think you have confused an actual request for input with something that it's certainly not.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> No big deal. I've got a line on a temp probe and will be assembling my case for testing in the next few days. Thanks anyway.


Sorry, confused you with trez00b. You threw a hissy-fit when asked why you were using a CLC in P400S TG on a limited budget, then apologized. I do have a P400. Are you going to use front as intake or exhaust?


----------



## Bill Owen

DarthBaggin's name rings a bell as being 100% Legit and cool dude.


----------



## Awd98Turbodsm

My 3 Phanteks builds.
My first one was in my old phanteks EVOLV ATX (Gone to a better home!)


My second build.


My Current Gaming Rig.


----------



## nycgtr

Was about to buy an elite this week, then i saw hints that the Corsair slate is moving along. So Corsair slate it is.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bill Owen*
> 
> DarthBaggin's name rings a bell as being 100% Legit and cool dude.


Thanks man







that means alot coming from the man behind MNPCTech


----------



## Aby67

This is precisely what I want a Phanteks case to be.



Elite Triple 360x180 dual 180mm fans..it is really time to move on from 360 120 rads or anything with 120 fans. And would also be time to move on from the rear fan and shut that hole once and for all, for HEDT workstation set ups.
Even the evolve entry level chassis for consumer gaming with little differences could host dual 360 180mm rads, instead of entry level 120 mm ones

There are two manufacturers that make dual 180mm fan rads

EK-CoolStream WE 360 (Dual)
EAN: 3831109860342




An the glorious Alphacool NexXxoS XT45 Full Copper 180mm Dual 45 mm thick






both these rads run low density fins that allow to absolute silent 100% 24/7 loads with a HPC 4 to 6 gpu workstation on Threadripper or Intel Xeons

This is how I would then want Phanteks to layout the side of the motherboard tray so to have integrated Pump and GPU g/14 splitter where currently they have the extra hole for the radiator facing the side of the case on the Elite dual systems model



if they make this Id be willing to pay 500 dollars for it, and Ill make a Monoblock that the coldplate will cover the CPU VRms and Ram memory all in one block that is also the reservoir and integrates the pumps on it, similar to how You see in the image above.

I think it is about time to move away from so many tubes and fittings that contribute only to cool the system worse.

So Phanteks...I hope You will manufacture this Chassis for single and dual socket 7 GPU configurations, in a humane form factor, and finally get a decent case with an acceptable form factor for those Clients like Me that are into using hardware for work and performance instead of having it look like a chinese Yoyo with rgb all over the place.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Well the Pro M SE arrived this evening:



Now awaiting my spare SSD mounting brackets that will arrive Saturday


----------



## CanadiaNikon

Quote:


> You threw a hissy-fit when asked why you were using a CLC in P400S TG on a limited budget, then apologized.


And you accepted my apology so why cling so dearly to this?

Surely I am not the only person that has taken exception to some of the derogatory banter surrounding CLC's. Perhaps just one of few who chose (whether right or wrong) to voice it?

It truly is "water under the bridge". Let it go. The matter really does not need to drag on any longer.

Let's both just focus our attention on constructive contributions to what is, overall, a pretty great user forum.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CanadiaNikon*
> 
> And you accepted my apology so why cling so dearly to this?
> 
> Surely I am not the only person that has taken exception to some of the derogatory banter surrounding CLC's. Perhaps just one of few who chose (whether right or wrong) to voice it?
> 
> It truly is "water under the bridge". Let it go. The matter really does not need to drag on any longer.
> 
> Let's both just focus our attention on constructive contributions to what is, overall, a pretty great user forum.


You need to get over it. Sorry, but it is what my mind associates you with.

the 'derogatory banter surrounding CLCs' is not banter. It's the honest to God truth of what they are. Your taking excdeption was totally out of line with no bases. I said nothing for you to go off like you did. I would not be saying this now if not your your above reply. Anyone who has done any decent research into CLCs know they are as close to junk as they can be and still work.

I agree, it is a done deal. But in my mind (and I'm sure several others here) your name will always be associated with your hissy-fit. It's something you have to live with.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CanadiaNikon*
> 
> And you accepted my apology so why cling so dearly to this?
> 
> Surely I am not the only person that has taken exception to some of the derogatory banter surrounding CLC's. Perhaps just one of few who chose (whether right or wrong) to voice it?
> 
> It truly is "water under the bridge". Let it go. The matter really does not need to drag on any longer.
> 
> Let's both just focus our attention on constructive contributions to what is, overall, a pretty great user forum.


You were not one of the few to voice it. Were it a one-off, it just would have been glossed over. You were just one of the *very* few who didn't go on to make ridiculous statements about your CLC doing things it can't, defying the laws of physics and having unicorns sprinkle magic dust on it to make it that way. It is those that came before you that screwed it up for all. But, agreed. Over, done, put it to bed and move on to constructive posts.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> You need to get over it. Sorry, but it is what my mind associates you with.


You could remember him as the singular CLC user who apologized and was rational.









Win-win for all that way.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> You could remember him as the singular CLC user who apologized and was rational.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Win-win for all that way.


Y







Isn't that what I said a few posts ago?
In post #19024 to be precise: "You threw a hissy-fit when asked why you were using a CLC in P400S TG on a limited budget, then apologized."


----------



## OutlawII

Calm down ladies,if you have issues take it to Facebook we have important things to discuss here


----------



## lightsout

I finally got my build done. Enthoo Pro M Tempered Glass. This was my favorite case to work with. Love the tempered glass. And I am enjoying the simplicity of air cooling. Besides a couple little things like getting a matching rear fan, I am pretty happy with where its at.

Excuse the potato.


----------



## pez

Are you using a ODD? If so, it looks like you successfully recessed it? Either way the build looks great.

Glad to see the Pro M getting a lot of love lately








.


----------



## lightsout

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pez*
> 
> Are you using a ODD? If so, it looks like you successfully recessed it? Either way the build looks great.
> 
> Glad to see the Pro M getting a lot of love lately
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


Thanks, and no that's a 3.5 hard drive adapter stuck in there. I have 4 HDD's and 1 SSD in there.

This build started as me wanting to beef up my file server/family PC, which had an Athlon x3. It turned into a full new rig.


----------



## pez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lightsout*
> 
> Thanks, and no that's a 3.5 hard drive adapter stuck in there. I have 4 HDD's and 1 SSD in there.
> 
> This build started as me wanting to beef up my file server/family PC, which had an Athlon x3. It turned into a full new rig.


Haha the true definition of 'that escalated quickly'.









I do love how you made use of the HDD trays. I think if I went back to ATX and the Pro M, I would do my best to utilize those in the same way.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lightsout*
> 
> I finally got my build done. Enthoo Pro M Tempered Glass. This was my favorite case to work with. Love the tempered glass. And I am enjoying the simplicity of air cooling. Besides a couple little things like getting a matching rear fan, I am pretty happy with where its at.
> 
> Excuse the potato.


Very nice!
Looks like 2 HDDs in trays below 5.25" bay. Would the lower one fit level with GPU? I ask because if it was at that level it might function as kind of divider between CPU airflow and GPU airflow from front fans as well as lower airflow resistance. Might not work/ lower temps any .. but then again it might.


----------



## lightsout

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *lightsout*
> 
> I finally got my build done. Enthoo Pro M Tempered Glass. This was my favorite case to work with. Love the tempered glass. And I am enjoying the simplicity of air cooling. Besides a couple little things like getting a matching rear fan, I am pretty happy with where its at.
> 
> Excuse the potato.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Very nice!
> Looks like 2 HDDs in trays below 5.25" bay. Would the lower one fit level with GPU? I ask because if it was at that level it might function as kind of divider between CPU airflow and GPU airflow from front fans as well as lower airflow resistance. Might not work/ lower temps any .. but then again it might.
Click to expand...

Thanks. I thought about that when installing and probably should. I did it like this for looks as one right in the middle will probably annoy me. But airflow to the CPU is hampered right now, at least to some degree I would think.

Ideally I want to get an 8tb HDD and consolidate three drives into one. When funds allow, just one of those upgrades that you don't get a lot out of so hard to justify at the moment.


----------



## thekingbeyond

Does anyone have the details of the 120mm fan included with the phanteks p300, there isn't a model number on it


----------



## SOCOM_HERO

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lightsout*
> 
> I finally got my build done. Enthoo Pro M Tempered Glass. This was my favorite case to work with. Love the tempered glass. And I am enjoying the simplicity of air cooling. Besides a couple little things like getting a matching rear fan, I am pretty happy with where its at.
> 
> Excuse the potato.


What LEDs are those? I can't seem to get the Halos or my strip to work properly with my motherboard.


----------



## lightsout

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SOCOM_HERO*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *lightsout*
> 
> I finally got my build done. Enthoo Pro M Tempered Glass. This was my favorite case to work with. Love the tempered glass. And I am enjoying the simplicity of air cooling. Besides a couple little things like getting a matching rear fan, I am pretty happy with where its at.
> 
> Excuse the potato.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What LEDs are those? I can't seem to get the Halos or my strip to work properly with my motherboard.
Click to expand...

Just these cheap ones.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006LW2NJM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I do not have haloes, But I have this strip going directly to my motherboard. I thought I broke the strip somehow but the RGB connector only works one way when connecting to the mobo. I had it backwards. I have to say I love them, they look way better in person.


----------



## SOCOM_HERO

I have a gigabyte board and it has either 3 pin VDG or 5 pin 12vGRBW pin outs. I can't get the halos to work on them correctly or a cablemod addressable RGB strip.

I am brand new to RGB lighting and a total novice at it; any tips would be appreciated. Or a direction to where I could start a thread about the topic as there isn't a section on RGB on OCN...yet.


----------



## bajer29

Components > Other peripherals, maybe? I would also maybe try in case mods?


----------



## DarthBaggins

@Bill Owen can't wait to use those little modding goodies I ordered, and you have a place on my office wall









Benching the 6900k and overclocking a 1050SC I picked up


----------



## lightsout

I had the same problem couldn't find a ton of info. That sucks that gigabyte has a different pin out.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lightsout*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *SOCOM_HERO*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *lightsout*
> 
> I finally got my build done. Enthoo Pro M Tempered Glass. This was my favorite case to work with. Love the tempered glass. And I am enjoying the simplicity of air cooling. Besides a couple little things like getting a matching rear fan, I am pretty happy with where its at.
> 
> Excuse the potato.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What LEDs are those? I can't seem to get the Halos or my strip to work properly with my motherboard.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Just these cheap ones.
> 
> https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006LW2NJM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
> 
> I do not have haloes, But I have this strip going directly to my motherboard. I thought I broke the strip somehow but the RGB connector only works one way when connecting to the mobo. I had it backwards. I have to say I love them, they look way better in person.
Click to expand...


----------



## SOCOM_HERO

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lightsout*
> 
> I had the same problem couldn't find a ton of info. That sucks that gigabyte has a different pin out.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *lightsout*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *SOCOM_HERO*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *lightsout*
> 
> I finally got my build done. Enthoo Pro M Tempered Glass. This was my favorite case to work with. Love the tempered glass. And I am enjoying the simplicity of air cooling. Besides a couple little things like getting a matching rear fan, I am pretty happy with where its at.
> 
> Excuse the potato.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What LEDs are those? I can't seem to get the Halos or my strip to work properly with my motherboard.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Just these cheap ones.
> 
> https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006LW2NJM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
> 
> I do not have haloes, But I have this strip going directly to my motherboard. I thought I broke the strip somehow but the RGB connector only works one way when connecting to the mobo. I had it backwards. I have to say I love them, they look way better in person.
> 
> Click to expand...
Click to expand...

I tried the other header with my cablemod addressable header and my PC wouldn't turn on. Yikes. So that didn't work. Unplugged for now and will trouble shoot tomorrow. Urgh.


----------



## Timuka3T

For the Phanteks Enthoo Pro M does anyone know some good mods that i can buy without DIY? Where is everyone getting the custom cables from? I was looking at Cable Mod however wasn't sure which cables i might need and how long


----------



## DarthBaggins

I got my cables done by ModOne PC


----------



## Aby67

How much are You willing to pay for this case capable to cool 6/7 GPU configurations and single/dual socket CPUs MB?


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aby67*
> 
> 
> 
> How much are You willing to pay for this case capable to cool 6/7 GPU configurations and single/dual socket CPUs MB?


Let me know when HWL comes out with a 360x180, and there are good 180mm fans to use with it. Until then....I'll pay $0. Even after then...probably still $0.


----------



## Aby67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Let me know when HWL comes out with a 360x180, and there are good 180mm fans to use with it. Until then....I'll pay $0. Even after then...probably still $0.


Does that mean You prefer 360 x120?...why do you prefer smaller less capable radiators!?

Wouldn't 360x45mmdual 180 Fan be good enough for You...maybe 360x60mmm better? There is plenty to choose from starting from 30 mm thickness, two are more than enough to cool 4 gpus and a 180TDP CPU with just 4 fans at less than 19 decibels at full speed.
You might want to check EK stock and if You want higher end stuff at Alphacool.


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aby67*
> 
> Does that mean You prefer 360 x120?...why do you prefer smaller less capable radiators!?
> 
> Wouldn't 360x45mmdual 180 Fan be good enough for You...maybe 360x60mmm better? There is plenty to choose from starting from 30 mm thickness, two are more than enough to cool 4 gpus and a 180TDP CPU with just 4 fans at less than 19 decibels at full speed.
> You might want to check EK stock and if You want higher end stuff at Alphacool.


Because 2x or 3x of said "less capable" radiators are plenty for the setups you mentioned and actually have excellent fans available for them.

As far as I know, there was only 1 180mm fan suitable for radiators that was actually able to idle quietly, perform decently and was well build. And that was the Silverstone FM181, which is EOL now... So yeah, no thanks...


----------



## Aby67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gilles3000*
> 
> Because 2x or 3x of said "less capable" radiators are plenty for the setups you mentioned and actually have excellent fans available for them.
> 
> As far as I know, there was only 1 180mm fan suitable for radiators that was actually able to idle quietly, perform decently and was well build. And that was the Silverstone FM181, which is EOL now... So yeah, no thanks...


I have a waterbox set up with dual 540x180 with 12 180mm vardar fans running at max speed 900rpm.....If I put my ear withing 1 inch from them I cannot hear them....sorry I think You are misinformed about radiators fans and watercooling in general....but that s ok, You probably dont need to cool 2 kilowatts of stuff or more


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aby67*
> 
> I have a waterbox set up with dual 540x180 with 12 180mm vardar fans running at max speed 900rpm.....If I put my ear withing 1 inch from them I cannot hear them....sorry I think You are misinformed about radiators fans and watercooling in general....but that s ok, You probably dont need to cool 2 kilowatts of stuff or more


What are these 180mm vardar fans you're talking about buddy? Becuase to my knowledge no such fans exists.

If you can't hear even the quietest 900rpm within an inch, I think you should see an Audiologist...

Have build custom water cooling loops, know plenty about them, and no I don't need to cool 2KW of "stuff", but honestly I am interested to see your setup and what you're doing with it.


----------



## lightsout

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Timuka3T*
> 
> For the Phanteks Enthoo Pro M does anyone know some good mods that i can buy without DIY? Where is everyone getting the custom cables from? I was looking at Cable Mod however wasn't sure which cables i might need and how long


I just use sleeved extensions. Got them on Amazon made by Silverstone.


----------



## Aby67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gilles3000*
> 
> What are these 180mm vardar fans you're talking about buddy? Becuase to my knowledge no such fans exists.
> 
> If you can't hear even the quietest 900rpm within an inch, I think you should see an Audiologist...
> 
> Have build custom water cooling loops, know plenty about them, and no I don't need to cool 2KW of "stuff", but honestly I am interested to see your setup and what you're doing with it.


I got this at EK with teir rads...as for 19 decibels anythign below 20 decibels is inaudible in mos case scenariost


----------



## javaneze

Loving the case so far, I ve been a hardcore coolermaster/corsair fan for years and I was pleasantly surprised by the quality of the Enthoo pro M.
Hands down one of the best cases I ve built in. Kudos to Phanteks, I was not expecting it.


----------



## DarthBaggins

I should be installing most of my components within the next week or so. Just waiting on a pair of PWM D5's for my dual pump top and housing kits.

Love how light this case is, especially coming from CaseLabs and InWin cases


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *javaneze*
> 
> Loving the case so far, I ve been a hardcore coolermaster/corsair fan for years and I was pleasantly surprised by the quality of the Enthoo pro M.
> Hands down one of the best cases I ve built in. Kudos to Phanteks, I was not expecting it.


Big step up from either of those. Welcome to the club.


----------



## dmbjohn

looks mighty nice!


----------



## lightsout

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *javaneze*
> 
> Loving the case so far, I ve been a hardcore coolermaster/corsair fan for years and I was pleasantly surprised by the quality of the Enthoo pro M.
> Hands down one of the best cases I ve built in. Kudos to Phanteks, I was not expecting it.


I never considered an SSD in the front right there. Interesting.


----------



## javaneze

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lightsout*
> 
> I never considered an SSD in the front right there. Interesting.


I was skeptical about it at first but it doesn't look half bad actually.


----------



## lapper13

Have a heat dissipation question related to my phanteks case.

Anyone mining crytpo with two 1080 ti cards in an enthoo evolve ATX glass?
I have one GPU and want to add a second, but am concerned about the added heat a second card would add to my case (and surrounding components).

Running the three stock phanteks 140SP fans at 100%; two intake, one exhaust.
Also have two corsair 140MM fans exhausting out the top, through the h115i cooler.
Here's my current rig that I want to add another 1080 ti to:
https://pcpartpicker.com/user/lapper13/saved/mvhRBm

Current GPU (overclocked) maxes at 63C under full load, but case throws off a lot of heat and raises water temps in my 115i cooler to 35C (24C at idle).
Not worried about the GPU (good temps) as much as I am about the surrounding components.

Here's a screenshot of my temps when mining with one 1080 ti.
I have no idea where the 7 MB temp sensors that corsair link reports are located on the actual MOBO (maximus IX hero)


----------



## lapper13

Forgot to include my PSU question:
Should I upgrade my 750 Watt PSU?
Did a parts list on pcpartspicker with the second gpu and the power draw says 715 W:
https://pcpartpicker.com/user/lapper13/saved/jvBGf7

Is there a suggested amount of power head room to maintain?
Wondering if 715 is cutting it too close on my 750.

Thx!


----------



## DarthBaggins

How much do you plan on OC'ing the hardware?


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lapper13*
> 
> Forgot to include my PSU question:
> Should I upgrade my 750 Watt PSU?
> Did a parts list on pcpartspicker with the second gpu and the power draw says 715 W:
> https://pcpartpicker.com/user/lapper13/saved/jvBGf7
> 
> Is there a suggested amount of power head room to maintain?
> Wondering if 715 is cutting it too close on my 750.
> 
> Thx!


Will this be used for mining as it says in the title(A 7700K is pretty weird for a mining rig)? If you're running them stock you're 500-550W-ish power draw under full load. A serious overclock might get you close to 750W tho, in which case a power supply upgrade could be nice, although not entirely necessary.

If you're going to use it for gaming( as this really looks like more of a gaming build), you're fine with 750W even with a decent OC.


----------



## doyll

Nicely done @javaneze







While Enthoo Pro M is only an entry to mid-level case it is better quality then what you have been using. Phanteks makes some of the best reasonably prices cases their are.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lapper13*
> 
> Have a heat dissipation question related to my phanteks case.
> 
> Anyone mining crytpo with two 1080 ti cards in an enthoo evolve ATX glass?
> I have one GPU and want to add a second, but am concerned about the added heat a second card would add to my case (and surrounding components).
> 
> Running the three stock phanteks 140SP fans at 100%; two intake, one exhaust.
> Also have two corsair 140MM fans exhausting out the top, through the h115i cooler.
> Here's my current rig that I want to add another 1080 ti to:
> https://pcpartpicker.com/user/lapper13/saved/mvhRBm
> 
> Current GPU (overclocked) maxes at 63C under full load, but case throws off a lot of heat and raises water temps in my 115i cooler to 35C (24C at idle).
> Not worried about the GPU (good temps) as much as I am about the surrounding components.
> 
> Here's a screenshot of my temps when mining with one 1080 ti.
> I have no idea where the 7 MB temp sensors that corsair link reports are located on the actual MOBO (maximus IX hero)


You have good temps for all the power hungry / heat generating components you have in your Evolv ATX. But I would not recommend trying to add another GPU.

Evolv ATX is not designed to hold and cool all the components you have in it. It simply does not have the venting needed to supply enough airflow .. and without serious modding it never will. 750w is PSU is fine for what you have. Your current temps are amazing considering how much heat you are working with in a case using only 2x 140mm intake fans. Don't even think about adding a 3rd GPU to your present system.

280mm CLC in top has limited airflow because top venting is very limited. Combine low airflow with a garbage CLC aluminum radiator that need huge amount of airflow to cool properly means lots of problems in Evolv.

2x 1080 TI GPUs rated 250w TDP each is 500w of heat plus. They each have 3x 90mm fans each under load moving about 85-110cfm (200cfm total) nead at least 3x 140mm 70cfm intake fans to supply them with the cool air they need .. and you only have 2x 140mm intakes so obviously case is not flowing enough air and you add a 280mm CLC needing an additional 2x 140mm of cool airflow ???







And want to add another 1080 TI !?!?!?


----------



## bobfig

changed over from my old fractal define r2 to the phanteks eclipse p400s and im liking it. kinda wish it may include 1 or 2 of the hdd tray caddies but thats about my only complaint with it.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bobfig*
> 
> changed over from my old fractal define r2 to the phanteks eclipse p400s and im liking it. kinda wish it may include 1 or 2 of the hdd tray caddies but thats about my only complaint with it.


You can't expect the same kind of niceties in a $60 case (you can't count the upcharge for tempered glass into the price of the chassis) that you became accustomed to in a $120 case from a similar quality mfg. If you are coming from what is essentially a second tier case with an inflated price tag like Corsair/CM/Tt, yeah, you will get way more for less in a Phanteks....or a Fractal. But Phanteks and Fractal offer similar value and quality, so moving down the line will lose you some features/accessories.


----------



## bobfig

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> You can't expect the same kind of niceties in a $60 case (you can't count the upcharge for tempered glass into the price of the chassis) that you became accustomed to in a $120 case from a similar quality mfg. If you are coming from what is essentially a second tier case with an inflated price tag like Corsair/CM/Tt, yeah, you will get way more for less in a Phanteks....or a Fractal. But Phanteks and Fractal offer similar value and quality, so moving down the line will lose you some features/accessories.


im well aware of all that. the case still feels like it is a steal for the price. just would of been easier to have the caddies included for $10-15 more so you wouldn't need to go out and add something else. just saying that would be one of my only gripes with the case. everything else has been perfect and exactly what i needed out of it. only other thing seems to be the noise reducing foam stuff on the scilent series wasn't stuck on all the way and was starting to fall off. not sure if it was crappy adhesive or just not pushed on all the way.

so for $80 you get a nice case with temper glass and a led strip with a built in controller is pretty nice.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bobfig*
> 
> im well aware of all that. the case still feels like it is a steal for the price. just would of been easier to have the caddies included for $10-15 more so you wouldn't need to go out and add something else. just saying that would be one of my only gripes with the case. everything else has been perfect and exactly what i needed out of it. only other thing seems to be the noise reducing foam stuff on the scilent series wasn't stuck on all the way and was starting to fall off. not sure if it was crappy adhesive or just not pushed on all the way.
> 
> so for $80 you get a nice case with temper glass and a led strip with a built in controller is pretty nice.


P400 is defintely a good value case! Lots of nice things and quality others in this price range do not have.


----------



## lapper13

First ever build, so bear with my newbness...

7700k is overclocked to 5.1 GHZ (1.376 vcore).
I pushed the GPU as far as I could; I think the core clock maxed at 1.774 GHX before things got unstable.



Would like to reduce voltage to the GPU to reduce power draw and heat, but haven't tried yet.


----------



## CoreyL4

Has anyone tried the modmymods panels yet?


----------



## lapper13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> How much do you plan on OC'ing the hardware?


First ever build, so bear with my newbness...

7700k is overclocked to 5.1 GHZ (1.376 vcore).
I pushed the GPU as far as I could; I think the core clock maxed at 1.774 GHX before things got unstable.



Would like to reduce voltage to the GPU to reduce power draw and heat, but haven't tried yet.


----------



## lapper13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gilles3000*
> 
> Will this be used for mining as it says in the title(A 7700K is pretty weird for a mining rig)? If you're running them stock you're 500-550W-ish power draw under full load. A serious overclock might get you close to 750W tho, in which case a power supply upgrade could be nice, although not entirely necessary.
> 
> If you're going to use it for gaming( as this really looks like more of a gaming build), you're fine with 750W even with a decent OC.


It's a gaming PC but I'm not gaming.
Just wanted to build the most powerful and versatile machine I could for around $2500, so this is what I built.
Heavy raw editing in lightroom CC, which the GPU kicks ass at.
Otherwise, general purpose PC.

Wanted to try mining with it as a learning opportunity.
Now at a fork: add a second GPU to this, or build a dedicated mining rig.

My current rig pulls 450 Watts from the wall while mining.


----------



## Aby67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lapper13*
> 
> First ever build, so bear with my newbness...
> 
> 7700k is overclocked to 5.1 GHZ (1.376 vcore).
> I pushed the GPU as far as I could; I think the core clock maxed at 1.774 GHX before things got unstable.
> 
> 
> 
> Would like to reduce voltage to the GPU to reduce power draw and heat, but haven't tried yet.


Just throw away that CPU and move on, You are becoming an old timer nostalgic....things have changed quite a bit, in the last year and they are about to change by double in the next few months...a 7700k makes no sense and no matter how much it is overclocked it wont be able to run 2018/19 realistic games properly, it is as if you are asking valentino rossi to try to win the motogp with last years bike for the next season.


----------



## lapper13

Thanks doyll, I have a lot of respect for your cooling expertise.
Wish I had gone with a better case, but this one was soooo sexy.
Any case recommendations for better airflow?
I'm less interested in aesthetics than before.
Now I just want the best cooling I can get out of a case.

I have the top lid off and modded the front.
My GPU never goes above 63C and my OC'd 7700k (5.1GHZ) never goes above 73C.
I thought those were pretty respectable numbers, considering the OC and crappy airflow case.
Also pushing the GPU fans harder than stock:


Just to clarify, I want to add a 2nd GPU not a 3rd.
Would a 2nd GPU be way too much heat for this rig to dissipate?

You have the same case, correct?
Wondering if I should replace the case...
Or:
Build a custom loop, put 2 1080 ti's (and the CPU) underwater, with a 360mm rad up top?

Would putting the GPUs under water reduce the need for more airflow, since the GPUs would no longer be spewing their exhaust into my case?

Thx!


----------



## lapper13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aby67*
> 
> Just throw away that CPU and move on, You are becoming an old timer nostalgic....things have changed quite a bit, in the last year and they are about to change by double in the next few months...a 7700k makes no sense and no matter how much it is overclocked it wont be able to run 2018/19 realistic games properly, it is as if you are asking valentino rossi to try to win the motogp with last years bike for the next season.


I don't game, so not sure your analysis is correct.


----------



## Aby67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lapper13*
> 
> I don't game, so not sure your analysis is correct.


well whatever it is that You are doing with that cpu and its cache and few cores, you are able to do just that and nothing else, if you do need that 5.1 OC.
Im sorry dont take it personal, but as Intel xeon client for years I have always found it appalling the prices that Intel has placed this cpu to the public.....I think that people like You that own a 7700k, should be the first ones to complain about it, instead of glorifying the suppository you have been sold over and over and over and over.....if it wasnt for AMD you would be still here talking about overclocked dual cores and praising INtel while INtel is stealing Your money


----------



## DarthBaggins

Lmao a 7700k will still have zero issues with upcoming AAA titles (not everything is directed to the CPU these days). Don't forget not everyone uses their hardware just to play games.


----------



## Aby67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Lmao a 7700k will still have zero issues with upcoming AAA titles (not everything is directed to the CPU these days). Don't forget not everyone uses their hardware just to play games.


I know tons of people that cant run many new gen games on 4 cores...You need to understand that 4 cores has become a legacy product for PC


----------



## DarthBaggins

Show proof of what you're saying


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aby67*
> 
> Just throw away that CPU and move on, You are becoming an old timer nostalgic....things have changed quite a bit, in the last year and they are about to change by double in the next few months...a 7700k makes no sense and no matter how much it is overclocked it wont be able to run 2018/19 realistic games properly, it is as if you are asking valentino rossi to try to win the motogp with last years bike for the next season.


How is a 7700K "nostalgic"? It is very useful for a number of applications where an "upgrade" would be little more than a very expensive sidegrade. There are a good number of us who actually use computers as computers, and not as glorified gaming consoles. I'm not about to drop $1K to save six seconds on a CAD project, and the suggestion of doing so would be ridiculously misguided. I could give a rat's buttocks about what game will and won't run on my rig, since they will never be installed on it. If you are going to lambast someone for their parts choice, maybe you should have the faintest idea what said part is being used for. You kids thinking the world sits around playing video games.....









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lapper13*
> 
> Would putting the GPUs under water reduce the need for more airflow, since the GPUs would no longer be spewing their exhaust into my case?
> 
> Thx!


Yes....provided you actually put them under water and don't do the CLC ghetto rig. Two blocks and something as simple as a Swiftech H240-X (which can be had cheap - http://www.swiftech.com/H240-X.aspx) would do wonders for what you are trying to do.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lapper13*
> 
> Thanks doyll, I have a lot of respect for your cooling expertise.
> Wish I had gone with a better case, but this one was soooo sexy.
> Any case recommendations for better airflow?
> I'm less interested in aesthetics than before.
> Now I just want the best cooling I can get out of a case.
> 
> I have the top lid off and modded the front.
> My GPU never goes above 63C and my OC'd 7700k (5.1GHZ) never goes above 73C.
> I thought those were pretty respectable numbers, considering the OC and crappy airflow case.
> Also pushing the GPU fans harder than stock:
> 
> 
> Just to clarify, I want to add a 2nd GPU not a 3rd.
> Would a 2nd GPU be way too much heat for this rig to dissipate?
> 
> You have the same case, correct?
> Wondering if I should replace the case...
> Or:
> Build a custom loop, put 2 1080 ti's (and the CPU) underwater, with a 360mm rad up top?
> 
> Would putting the GPUs under water reduce the need for more airflow, since the GPUs would no longer be spewing their exhaust into my case?
> 
> Thx!


Based on your current temps my guess is yes. Everything I said is the same except GPU is using about 100cfm instead of 200cfm. Can't you understand that with only 130cfm of cool air from 2x front intakes you can't supply the 200+cfm of cool air needed to cool 2x GPUs?? And that doesn't even take into consideration the airflow needed for CPU cooling,

Like I said before, the case simply is not designed for more than 1 air cooled GPU. It's designed for one CPU and one GPU on air or liquid cooling. Putting more in is simply pushing the limits of it's airflow capabilities.


----------



## DarthBaggins

a 4c/4t CPU is far from legacy, also legacy is a term you might need to look up when referring to CPU's. If it was legacy Intel and AMD would ditch the format.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> a 4c/4t CPU is far from legacy, also legacy is a term you might need to look up when referring to CPU's. If it was legacy Intel and AMD would ditch the format.


You will never get the magic potion of erection from Lothar of the Hill People on a four core CPU!!!!!! You need at least six cores just to get the mighty sword from the dragon's den! You'll get pwned!!11!1!1!!


----------



## Aby67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> How is a 7700K "nostalgic"? It is very useful for a number of applications where an "upgrade" would be little more than a very expensive sidegrade. There are a good number of us who actually use computers as computers, and not as glorified gaming consoles. I'm not about to drop $1K to save six seconds on a CAD project, and the suggestion of doing so would be ridiculously misguided. I could give a rat's buttocks about what game will and won't run on my rig, since they will never be installed on it. If you are going to lambast someone for their parts choice, maybe you should have the faintest idea what said part is being used for. You kids thinking the world sits around playing video games.....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yes....provided you actually put them under water and don't do the CLC ghetto rig. Two blocks and something as simple as a Swiftech H240-X (which can be had cheap - http://www.swiftech.com/H240-X.aspx) would do wonders for what you are trying to do.


As a matter of fact I dont see how a OC quad core can help You in 2d CAD work or nurb modeling...and You dont need to spend 1k for a proper CPU for this kind of work, there have been plenty of affordable options for along time even by Intel for entry level workstation non ECC rigs


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> You will never get the magic potion of erection from Lothar of the Hill People on a four core CPU!!!!!! You need at least six cores just to get the mighty sword from the dragon's den! You'll get pwned!!11!1!1!!


lmao








Guess all the people running i5's have needed to upgrade for the past 4 years or so.


----------



## lapper13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aby67*
> 
> well whatever it is that You are doing with that cpu and its cache and few cores, you are able to do just that and nothing else, if you do need that 5.1 OC.
> Im sorry dont take it personal, but as Intel xeon client for years I have always found it appalling the prices that Intel has placed this cpu to the public.....I think that people like You that own a 7700k, should be the first ones to complain about it, instead of glorifying the suppository you have been sold over and over and over and over.....if it wasnt for AMD you would be still here talking about overclocked dual cores and praising INtel while INtel is stealing Your money


You are adorable and obviously prefer AMD.
My primary use of this machine (lightroom CC editing of raw files) benefits from CPU clock speed and the GPU; nothing else.
This application gains no benefit from more than 4 cores; just higher clock speed.
At the time of my build the 7700k was the highest clock speed CPU on the market and will fit my use case for years to come.

You sound like you're either a troll, or just too young to see past your own nose.
In either case, I'm not going to argue with you, lad.

The one thing you got right is, I am indeed an old timer.
I've got over a decade of technical experience in multi vendor environments, working for fortune 500 tech companies.
AMD/Intel is coke/pepsi, little man. More similarities than differences.

If I lose my career and family, find myself with a plethora of free time and decide to spend that time gaming, you'll be the first person I ask for gaming advice from.

I also own a 12 Core Xeon server; now can we be friends???
I sure hope so, cause I could really use validation from some nerd on a forum.

xoxo


----------



## Aby67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lapper13*
> 
> It's a gaming PC but I'm not gaming.
> Just wanted to build the most powerful and versatile machine I could for around $2500, so this is what I built.
> Heavy raw editing in lightroom CC, which the GPU kicks ass at.
> Otherwise, general purpose PC.
> 
> Wanted to try mining with it as a learning opportunity.
> Now at a fork: add a second GPU to this, or build a dedicated mining rig.
> 
> My current rig pulls 450 Watts from the wall while mining.


I totally understand that and respect it, but You know Intel as been offering 6 core extreme cpus for a while already, I dont know what kind of power You need for doing what, but even if You went for a 8 core AMD today it wouldnt be a great price difference, Intel has had 6 Core Xtreme cpus priced just as the 7700K, and the price for that CPU is a steal because kids buy it and Intel needs the money as their sales have dropped dramatically...all I am trying to message here is that the more You glorify the 7700k, the less options you will be given while at the same time they will keep on selling this kind of low end CPus at crazy prices...a 7700k should cost less than half of what it is priced today... but no, people keep on buying it and as always those same people are the ones being ripped off...and then on top of that you get all the delidding cult and OC cult, that makes things even worse...cant you just say Hey intel You PCU at this price point is a piece of ****e because I must delid for it work, give me a faster product at the same price?
So here we are with people wanting more power but not willing to sped money and ok You go for ....a 7700K...there has been so much option than a 7700k price point for so long..I really don t understand, You guys raise the issue of prices and then You end up being donors to Intel...do You realize this?


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aby67*
> 
> I totally understand that and respect it, but You know Intel as been offering 6 core extreme cpus for a while already, I dont know what kind of power You need for doing what, but even if You went for a 8 core AMD today it wouldnt be a great price difference, Intel has had 6 Core Xtreme cpus priced just as the 7700K, and the price for that CPU is a steal because kids buy it and Intel needs the money as their sales have dropped dramatically...all I am trying to message here is that the more You glorify the 7700k, the less options you will be given while at the same time they will keep on selling this kind of low end CPus at crazy prices...a 7700k should cost less than half of what it is priced today... but no, people keep on buying it and as always those same people are the ones being ripped off...and then on top of that you get all the delidding cult and OC cult, that makes things even worse...cant you just say Hey intel You PCU at this price point is a piece of ****e because I must delid for it work, give me a faster product at the same price?
> So here we are with people wanting more power but not willing to sped money and ok You go for ....a 7700K...there has been so much option than a 7700k price point for so long..I really don t understand, You guys raise the issue of prices and then You end up being donors to Intel...do You realize this?


What part of
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lapper13*
> 
> My primary use of this machine (lightroom CC editing of raw files) benefits from CPU clock speed and the GPU; nothing else. This application gains no benefit from more than 4 cores; just higher clock speed. At the time of my build the 7700k was the highest clock speed CPU on the market and will fit my use case for years to come.


has you so confused? Do you need help with the bigger words? How do you not comprehend that having more unused threads at a lower clock speed does not benefit this individual?


----------



## Aby67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lapper13*
> 
> You are adorable and obviously prefer AMD.
> My primary use of this machine (lightroom CC editing of raw files) benefits from CPU clock speed and the GPU; nothing else.
> This application gains no benefit from more than 4 cores; just higher clock speed.
> At the time of my build the 7700k was the highest clock speed CPU on the market and will fit my use case for years to come.
> 
> You sound like you're either a troll, or just too young to see past your own nose.
> In either case, I'm not going to argue with you, lad.
> 
> The one thing you got right is, I am indeed an old timer.
> I've got over a decade of technical experience in multi vendor environments, working for fortune 500 tech companies.
> AMD/Intel is coke/pepsi, little man. More similarities than differences.
> 
> If I lose my career and family, find myself with a plethora of free time and decide to spend that time gaming, you'll be the first person I ask for gaming advice from.
> 
> I also own a 12 Core Xeon server; now can we be friends???
> I sure hope so, cause I could really use validation from some nerd on a forum.
> 
> xoxo


I have been on dual xeons for as long as I can remember, CG is My profession...as for preferring AMD, .....yes now I do because to be honest last Xeon release to me has been a massive disappointment even on paper, and I can only be grateful that AMD will basically zero xeon sales...there is no reason for a xeon client to upgrade to any of this latest crap Intel has released...


----------



## Aby67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> What part of
> has you so confused? Do you need help with the bigger words? How do you not comprehend that having more unused threads at a lower clock speed does not benefit this individual?


get a faster base clock cheap CPU with more cores for the same price...as I said there has been many of them even before AMD ryzen.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> a 4c/4t CPU is far from legacy, also legacy is a term you might need to look up when referring to CPU's. If it was legacy Intel and AMD would ditch the format.


I thought the same thing when I saw the post.

4 core / 8 thread, but yeah, definitely not legacy. Some people don't realize how many old i7 9xx and dual Xeon systems are still performing almost as well as some new systems do .. biggest problems are not CPU cores / threads, but Sata, USB, bluetooth, etc limitations. Also there is the fact that most games tax the limits of GPU more than CPU.


----------



## Aby67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> I thought the same thing when I saw the post.
> 
> 4 core / 8 thread, but yeah, definitely not legacy. Some people don't realize how many old x58 systems are still performing almost as well as some new systems do. Also there is the fact that most games tax the limits of GPU more than CPU.


with the 8700k the 7700k becomes legacy.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aby67*
> 
> with the 8700k the 7700k becomes legacy.


In your opinion .. which I and many others here with many years of experience in computer industry think is untrue.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aby67*
> 
> get a faster base clock cheap CPU with more cores for the same price...as I said there has been many of them even before AMD ryzen.


You are obviously being contraian purely for the sake of it, and adding nothing to this thread but seemingly intentional misinformation and noise.


----------



## d0mmie

Trying to break the ice here, so how about a question for you Phanteks enthusiasts...

Let's imagine placing a 240mm radiator at the bottom of the Luxe case, but keeping the PSU shroud in place. Would that be a catastrophic placement due to possible air turbulence, since the air would be hard-pressed to actually go anywhere (considering air is coming in from the front also with 2 x 140mm fans), or does it really matter at all? So you might ask why not just put the 240mm in the front, and I would say because that's not the plan


----------



## Aby67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *d0mmie*
> 
> Trying to break the ice here, so how about a question for you Phanteks enthusiasts...
> 
> Let's imagine placing a 240mm radiator at the bottom of the Luxe case, but keeping the PSU shroud in place. Would that be a catastrophic placement due to possible air turbulence, since the air would be hard-pressed to actually go anywhere (considering air is coming in from the front also with 2 x 140mm fans), or does it really matter at all? So you might ask why not just put the 240mm in the front, and I would say because that's not the plan


Wouldnt dual 360 rads be good enough..You could use a couple of Alphacool rads that come with multiple ports, so you dont even have to go countless hardcore fittings for it, that would make your pc look like a central sewage pipe system cluster


----------



## d0mmie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aby67*
> 
> Wouldnt dual 360 rads be good enough..You could use a couple of Alphacool rads that come with multiple ports, so you dont even have to go countless hardcore fittings for it, that would make your pc look like a central sewage pipe system cluster


There's no room for dual 360 rads in the Luxe. Unlike the Primo, the PSU is actually in the way to make that happen. The plan is though to have a 360 in the top, and the 240 in the bottom. I just need to make sure that I keep at least neutral air pressure, and not obstruct the front air intake more than necessary as it's already bad enough (which is the reason I don't want a radiator there)


----------



## Aby67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *d0mmie*
> 
> There's no room for dual 360 rads in the Luxe. Unlike the Primo, the PSU is actually in the way to make that happen. The plan is though to have a 360 in the top, and the 240 in the bottom. I just need to make sure that I keep at least neutral air pressure, and not obstruct the front air intake more than necessary as it's already bad enough (which is the reason I don't want a radiator there)


right My bad, thought You was on the Evlovle Case....My self would love to see an ELITE case, in a smaller form factor that can host triple 360x180MM rads, Alphacool makes them from 30mm to 80 mm thickness with tons of intakes.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aby67*
> 
> with the 8700k the 7700k becomes legacy.


What a statement!


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *d0mmie*
> 
> There's no room for dual 360 rads in the Luxe. Unlike the Primo, the PSU is actually in the way to make that happen. The plan is though to have a 360 in the top, and the 240 in the bottom. I just need to make sure that I keep at least neutral air pressure, and not obstruct the front air intake more than necessary as it's already bad enough (which is the reason I don't want a radiator there)


I have done this using the 240 as intake. While not optimal, it did work out well.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> What a statement!


Just out of curiosity, what models of CPU do you consider marginally fast enough now? I'm guessing anything about 3.5GHz or slower in 4 cores / 8 threads is too slow for most users. I'm on older i7 980, 980X and 6700K. Only the 980X is OC'ed. 980 is running 3.66GHz and is faster than needed for applications it does. 6700K will probably eventually be OC'ed, right now 4.2GHz is plenty fast I know this is Phanteks case thread, but as we sometimes do discuss other things and it's come up ..


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Just out of curiosity, what models of CPU do you consider marginally fast enough now? I'm guessing anything about 3.5GHz or slower in 4 cores / 8 threads is too slow for most users. I'm on older i7 980, 980X and 6700K. Only the 980X is OC'ed. 980 is running 3.66GHz and is faster than needed for applications it does. 6700K will probably eventually be OC'ed, right now 4.2GHz is plenty fast I know this is Phanteks case thread, but as we sometimes do discuss other things and it's come up ..


I think you got me wrong. I was not agreeing with him. I actually disagree completely that the 7700K becomes a legacy CPU now that 8700K is around. 7700K is more than capable of handling current AAA titles.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> I think you got me wrong. I was not agreeing with him. I actually disagree completely that the 7700K becomes a legacy CPU now that 8700K is around. 7700K is more than capable of handling current AAA titles.


No, I understood your post. I think he is in a group of one with his legacy belief. I was just curious what range of CPU is now becoming too slow for modern use. There is also the problem with 6+ year old motherboards not having USB3, Sata 3, Bluetooth, etc .. which is what I find most problematic with my old X58 systems. Processing speed if fine, but no decent Sata3 or USB3 is problematic.. and when adding new components finding compatible drivers.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> No, I understood your post. I think he is in a group of one with his legacy belief. I was just curious what range of CPU is now becoming too slow for modern use. There is also the problem with 6+ year old motherboards not having USB3, Sata 3, Bluetooth, etc .. which is what I find most problematic with my old X58 systems. Processing speed if fine, but no decent Sata3 or USB3 is problematic.. and when adding new components finding compatible drivers.


Oh ok. Well, I'm coming from a 2600K and jumping to an 8700K because I'm creating a new build so I don't think I can answer your question accurately







That's a really big jump to "keep up" with games especially with a GTX 1080Ti and 1440p 144Hz.


----------



## Aby67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> No, I understood your post. I think he is in a group of one with his legacy belief. I was just curious what range of CPU is now becoming too slow for modern use. There is also the problem with 6+ year old motherboards not having USB3, Sata 3, Bluetooth, etc .. which is what I find most problematic with my old X58 systems. Processing speed if fine, but no decent Sata3 or USB3 is problematic.. and when adding new components finding compatible drivers.


The 7700k is a legacy product period....if you not happy with it go ask intel to recall its new replacement called 8700k and as for triple a titles, this quad core cpu has already been choked at 100% since its debut...it costs a fortune, and has one sole purpose to have you change CPu as soon as possible...if gaming is your thing .....it absolutely makes no sense to buy a cpu that struggles with last years titles running at 100%......move on to the 8700k and you will at least have a cpu that will be able to handle games for a couple of years.....You might not have yet noticed but the whole industry has made a massive leap in all its global ecosystem this year....just as it is now common to have octacores in smart phones today game developers will finally have the ability to step up both physics and photorealism AI weather systems particle systems sound systems, data systems to a whole new level, that even for a 6 core it not going to be easy to handle by 2019/2020...I don t wanna mention that if you are still on 1080p gaming spare yourself time and money and just buy an xbox or playstation and hook it up to a 4k TV....because there is NOTHING that a fiat 500 running on kerosene can contribute to the client experience and immersion, whether you are gaming or whether you do 2 work in PS or Autocad or moderate nurb modeling and rendering.


----------



## Aby67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Oh ok. Well, I'm coming from a 2600K and jumping to an 8700K because I'm creating a new build so I don't think I can answer your question accurately
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's a really big jump to "keep up" with games especially with a GTX 1080Ti and 1440p 144Hz.


thats a sweet spot and you will be more than happy for quite along time, the 1080ti could be for some a slight overkill, but on the long run its the best buy you could have made and You will find yourself thinking of upgrading maybe 4 years from now or more.....on top of that you will respectful have entry level workstation capabilities which nowadays is something not to underestimate as more and more gamers and overall PC clients get into creating video and 3d content.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aby67*
> 
> The 7700k is a legacy product period....if you not happy with it go ask intel to recall its new replacement called 8700k and as for triple a titles, this quad core cpu has already been choked at 100% since its debut...it costs a fortune, and has one sole purpose to have you change CPu as soon as possible...if gaming is your thing .....it absolutely makes no sense to buy a cpu that struggles with last years titles running at 100%......move on to the 8700k and you will at least have a cpu that will be able to handle games for a couple of years.....You might not have yet noticed but the whole industry has made a massive leap in all its global ecosystem this year....just as it is now common to have octacores in smart phones today game developers will finally have the ability to step up both physics and photorealism AI weather systems particle systems sound systems, data systems to a whole new level, that even for a 6 core it not going to be easy to handle by 2019/2020...I don t wanna mention that if you are still on 1080p gaming spare yourself time and money and just buy an xbox or playstation and hook it up to a 4k TV....because there is NOTHING that a fiat 500 running on kerosene can contribute to the client experience and immersion, whether you are gaming or whether you do 2 work in PS or Autocad or moderate nurb modeling and rendering.


Oh! You're one of them! Can't wait for you to start calling people peasants...


----------



## nycgtr

Dont think it's a legacy product but the appeal is not as high as it use to be for sure. That's more of the intel mass brain washing than anything else. Quad cores should of been gone a couple years ago on the i7 line. The almost instant launch of 6 core and rumored 8 core from intel on the mainstream when competition arrives is a clear sign of the sandbagging in the mainstream.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Oh ok. Well, I'm coming from a 2600K and jumping to an 8700K because I'm creating a new build so I don't think I can answer your question accurately
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's a really big jump to "keep up" with games especially with a GTX 1080Ti and 1440p 144Hz.


So your 2600K was no longer fast enough for your needs or was it just fast enough and you are a at the point you want to upgrade anyway?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aby67*
> 
> The 7700k is a legacy product period....if you not happy with it go ask intel to recall its new replacement called 8700k and as for triple a titles, this quad core cpu has already been choked at 100% since its debut...it costs a fortune, and has one sole purpose to have you change CPu as soon as possible...if gaming is your thing .....it absolutely makes no sense to buy a cpu that struggles with last years titles running at 100%......move on to the 8700k and you will at least have a cpu that will be able to handle games for a couple of years.....You might not have yet noticed but the whole industry has made a massive leap in all its global ecosystem this year....just as it is now common to have octacores in smart phones today game developers will finally have the ability to step up both physics and photorealism AI weather systems particle systems sound systems, data systems to a whole new level, that even for a 6 core it not going to be easy to handle by 2019/2020...I don t wanna mention that if you are still on 1080p gaming spare yourself time and money and just buy an xbox or playstation and hook it up to a 4k TV....because there is NOTHING that a fiat 500 running on kerosene can contribute to the client experience and immersion, whether you are gaming or whether you do 2 work in PS or Autocad or moderate nurb modeling and rendering.


How about you stop repeating yourself? Most of us do not consider a 4 core / 8 thread 4.6GHz CPU 'legacy'. Almost everything in your post is unrelated to topics in theis forum. 7700K may be over priced but definitely has enough cores and speed to do the jobs 99% of us do. All you are doing is beating a dead horse in Phanteks case thread. If you want to argue about 7700K, take it to the CPU forums.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Oh! You're one of them! Can't wait for you to start calling people peasants...


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Oh! You're one of them! Can't wait for you to start calling people peasants...


Well, i"m an educated peasant .. if that makes any difference.


----------



## lapper13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> How is a 7700K "nostalgic"? It is very useful for a number of applications where an "upgrade" would be little more than a very expensive sidegrade. There are a good number of us who actually use computers as computers, and not as glorified gaming consoles. I'm not about to drop $1K to save six seconds on a CAD project, and the suggestion of doing so would be ridiculously misguided. I could give a rat's buttocks about what game will and won't run on my rig, since they will never be installed on it. If you are going to lambast someone for their parts choice, maybe you should have the faintest idea what said part is being used for. You kids thinking the world sits around playing video games.....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yes....provided you actually put them under water and don't do the CLC ghetto rig. Two blocks and something as simple as a Swiftech H240-X (which can be had cheap - http://www.swiftech.com/H240-X.aspx) would do wonders for what you are trying to do.


I'd love an H320, but can't find them anywhere.
You think the 240 could dissipate all the heat I want to throw at it?
Will probably be forced into the custom loop world.

Back to doyll's point of only 2 intake fans, would they suffice to provide enough cool air to the top 360mm rad I'd like to install eventually?
Or do I need a bigger case for more airflow from the front?


----------



## lapper13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Based on your current temps my guess is yes. Everything I said is the same except GPU is using about 100cfm instead of 200cfm. Can't you understand that with only 130cfm of cool air from 2x front intakes you can't supply the 200+cfm of cool air needed to cool 2x GPUs?? And that doesn't even take into consideration the airflow needed for CPU cooling,
> 
> Like I said before, the case simply is not designed for more than 1 air cooled GPU. It's designed for one CPU and one GPU on air or liquid cooling. Putting more in is simply pushing the limits of it's airflow capabilities.


10-4 good sir.
If I put in a custom loop with a 360mm up top, can this case supply enough cool air to dissipate the heat of 2 1080 ti's and the OC's 7700k?
Could turn around my rear exhaust for 3, 140mm intakes.
Maybe upgrade the fans as well?

Just trying to figure out my plan here.
Thx again man.


----------



## Aby67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lapper13*
> 
> 10-4 good sir.
> If I put in a custom loop with a 360mm up top, can this case supply enough cool air to dissipate the heat of 2 1080 ti's and the OC's 7700k?
> Could turn around my rear exhaust for 3, 140mm intakes.
> Maybe upgrade the fans as well?
> 
> Just trying to figure out my plan here.
> Thx again man.


What You could actually do if You like small format cases, is to build an external waterbox...eg using a watercool mo-ra3 radiator....if will be a lil more costful investment, but then it stays with you for life and it is way easier to clean when needed, you can hide it under the desk or put it near the window or even decouple it outside your balcony and so save tons of energy during the summer when you use air conditioning

http://shop.watercool.de/epages/WatercooleK.sf/en_GB/?ObjectPath=/Shops/WatercooleK/Categories/Radiatoren/MO-RA3.

During mild autumn winter evenings as long as You dont freeze the loop and not get below dew point you can also use it as a natural chiller, and if temps are too cold you can take back indoors, with quick disconnects you can also move your PC anytime any please without great weight etc etc.
If you are an overlcocker but still prefer stylish looking cases over functional ones this is the way to go...we all hope of course that at Phanteks they will come up with stylish and functional soon, as per quality they actually the very best out there, especially for the higher end cases.


----------



## DarthBaggins

I would recommend running a 360 & 240/280, a 360 would cover it but just barely due to the heat you'll be dumping into the loop with the OC'd 7700k and if you OC the 1080Ti's. I would recommend against external rads in the event you need to travel with the rig etc (just not a fan of them since cases are designed well enough now to keep everything internal)


----------



## Aby67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> I would recommend running a 360 & 240/280, a 360 would cover it but just barely due to the heat you'll be dumping into the loop with the OC'd 7700k and if you OC the 1080Ti's. I would recommend against external rads in the event you need to travel with the rig etc (just not a fan of them since cases are designed well enough now to keep everything internal)[/quote
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> I would recommend running a 360 & 240/280, a 360 would cover it but just barely due to the heat you'll be dumping into the loop with the OC'd 7700k and if you OC the 1080Ti's. I would recommend against external rads in the event you need to travel with the rig etc (just not a fan of them since cases are designed well enough now to keep everything internal)
> 
> 
> 
> some just carry the waterbox, its lighter, its safer , cools better and you can use it with all the computers you have any time anywhere .
Click to expand...


----------



## DarthBaggins

Still a hassle, one extra thing to carry and if it's filled with coolant it wont be lighter. Also show proof of it cooling better than internal rads, again not true - sure you can put it outside etc but then you're introducing other issues that can arise from doing so.


----------



## Aby67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Still a hassle, one extra thing to carry and if it's filled with coolant it wont be lighter. Also show proof of it cooling better than internal rads, again not true - sure you can put it outside etc but then you're introducing other issues that can arise from doing so.







judge for yourself.... we have a few that some which dont ever have fans on, and the pumps are inside the pc chassis, never had issues even running dual 150 tdp xeons for weeks non stop on these and temps at full load 52/55 c indoors. ive started using this solution fright after I saw this grea guy's video and ill nevr go back to rads mounted inside any chassis no matter how good it may be.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lapper13*
> 
> 10-4 good sir.
> If I put in a custom loop with a 360mm up top, can this case supply enough cool air to dissipate the heat of 2 1080 ti's and the OC's 7700k?
> Could turn around my rear exhaust for 3, 140mm intakes.
> Maybe upgrade the fans as well?
> 
> Just trying to figure out my plan here.
> Thx again man.


The top cannot flow 3x 120mm of air needed to support a 360mm without increasing top venting.


----------



## lapper13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> The top cannot flow 3x 120mm of air needed to support a 360mm without increasing top venting.


w
I removed the top cover. How bout now?


----------



## DarthBaggins

You realize things have changed alot in 4yrs since they made that video and again no true viable proof nor truth. Stop with spitting opinions without true technical data/proof. Now try telling these things to @B NEGATIVE in the watercooling thread. This thread is for Phanteks not for you to spit crap and stir things up.


----------



## lapper13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> I would recommend running a 360 & 240/280, a 360 would cover it but just barely due to the heat you'll be dumping into the loop with the OC'd 7700k and if you OC the 1080Ti's. I would recommend against external rads in the event you need to travel with the rig etc (just not a fan of them since cases are designed well enough now to keep everything internal)


Here's a dumb question: does removing the side glass panel fix my airflow problem?


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lapper13*
> 
> Here's a dumb question: does removing the side glass panel fix my airflow problem?


ModMyMods makes custom panels for the Evolv that allow better airflow for that case
https://modmymods.com/custom-services/phanteks-case-mods.html


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> So your 2600K was no longer fast enough for your needs or was it just fast enough and you are a at the point you want to upgrade anyway?


Both. My 2600K is bottlenecking my 1080Ti and I also decided to get my feet wet and dive in the watercooling realm. I had a brand new 7700K CPU and a Z270 board around late September and then came Coffee Lake. Since this will be a completely new build anyway, I thought that I would just sell the 7700K and Z270 and get the newest platform.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lapper13*
> 
> w
> I removed the top cover. How bout now?


Enthoo Evov ATX is simply not a case designed for what you are trying to use it fore.
Sure, removing the top will increase top vent area, but that doesn't change intake flow and destroys case looks. If you want that same size case get the Enthoo Pro M .. same internal case with different looks and venting more to your needs for about half the price of Evolv ATX. Evolv ATX is about $200 plus $160 for vented front and top is $360. Enthoo Pro M is $75-100 with all the venting neededout of the box. Evolv ATX is twice as much stock with much less airflow, and 4 to 5 times as much with custom vented top and front. Seems the logical move if that is the size case you want, get Enthoo Pro. If you want to run 2 or 3 GPUs get a bigger case with even more airflow.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Both. My 2600K is bottlenecking my 1080Ti and I also decided to get my feet wet and dive in the watercooling realm. I had a brand new 7700K CPU and a Z270 board around late September and then came Coffee Lake. Since this will be a completely new build anyway, I thought that I would just sell the 7700K and Z270 and get the newest platform.


Makes a lot of sense on many levels.


----------



## ciarlatano

630 plus pages on topic, only takes one troll to drag the thread completely off topic. Asking mods for a clean up.


----------



## lapper13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Enthoo Evov ATX is simply not a case designed for what you are trying to use it fore.
> Sure, removing the top will increase top vent area, but that doesn't change intake flow and destroys case looks. If you want that same size case get the Enthoo Pro M .. same internal case with different looks and venting more to your needs for about half the price of Evolv ATX. Evolv ATX is about $200 plus $160 for vented front and top is $360. Enthoo Pro M is $75-100 with all the venting neededout of the box. Evolv ATX is twice as much stock with much less airflow, and 4 to 5 times as much with custom vented top and front. Seems the logical move if that is the size case you want, get Enthoo Pro. If you want to run 2 or 3 GPUs get a bigger case with even more airflow.
> Makes a lot of sense on many levels.


Thanks for the input; I'll look at the pro.
Was also looking at the noctua ppc 3000 fans; if I'm reading the specs correctly, 2 of them as intakes would push 300 cfm.
Also thinking about removing the glass panel for increased airflow. I've given up on aesthetics.


----------



## tiefox

Guys, I'm modding the hell of my Enthoo Primo.

The plan is to add at least 3 420mm rads.



Also did a Tempered glass window mod. The cool thing was that I didnt need to glue in o screw in the glass, I could fit it on the small lips inside the side panel.




Next is figuring out how to properly mount the vertical rad, and the pump that will be next to the PSU behind, but I'm using a mcp35x2 pump with a heatsink and slim fan, so I'm designing a mount that should fit in the existing pump mount holes but that I will 3d print once my 3d printer arrives.

This is only half of it, once done I will mirror it and print.


----------



## nycgtr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tiefox*
> 
> Guys, I'm modding the hell of my Enthoo Primo.
> 
> The plan is to add at least 3 420mm rads.
> 
> 
> 
> Also did a Tempered glass window mod. The cool thing was that I didnt need to glue in o screw in the glass, I could fit it on the small lips inside the side panel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next is figuring out how to properly mount the vertical rad, and the pump that will be next to the PSU behind, but I'm using a mcp35x2 pump with a heatsink and slim fan, so I'm designing a mount that should fit in the existing pump mount holes but that I will 3d print once my 3d printer arrives.
> 
> This is only half of it, once done I will mirror it and print.


Easier to just use the front for the larger third rad. Check out my primo


----------



## tiefox

Thanks. but I will be using 63mm think rads, so I will need new mounting holes for the bottom rad, to push it all the way in the back to make room for the one in the front. Still deciding what to do based on the looks. I ordered the rads already and will get them in 2-3 weeks.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lapper13*
> 
> Thanks for the input; I'll look at the pro.
> Was also looking at the noctua ppc 3000 fans; if I'm reading the specs correctly, 2 of them as intakes would push 300 cfm.
> Also thinking about removing the glass panel for increased airflow. I've given up on aesthetics.


Fan specs are not really applicable. A fan rated 150cfm will flow about 100 when used as an intake with case grill and fiter .. and that is at full speed sounding like a jet engine. Most people do not want a system that is louder than about 35dB to 38dB. Some will tolerate 40dB. Personally I don't wan any more than 32-35dB at full load. As a comparison a quiet room is abut 30dB. It takes 2-3dB change for our ears to hear a change in volume, and a 10dB increase sounds twice as loud to our ears. If you want high performance 140mm fans I suggest TY-143 fans .. if they are available in your area. They a about $17 each compared to iPPC 3000 being about $28.

But really if you want to build a system that needs 300cfm of airflow it makes more sense to use a case that supports 4x 140mm intakes. That way your system will not have the neighbors calling the police complaining about the noise.







Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tiefox*
> 
> Thanks. but I will be using 63mm think rads, so I will need new mounting holes for the bottom rad, to push it all the way in the back to make room for the one in the front. Still deciding what to do based on the looks. I ordered the rads already and will get them in 2-3 weeks.


Just curious, why so many thick radiators?


----------



## tiefox

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Just curious, why so many thick radiators?


Why not ?









Just that they are not the most performing rads, but look really good, so adding as many as I can to do an "ultimate" fun build.

I'm getting the Aqua Computer modular rads with copper fins.


----------



## tiefox

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nycgtr*
> 
> Easier to just use the front for the larger third rad. Check out my primo


BTW, really nice what you have don to your primo, I'm curious on the custom panels you put inside, do you have the model or measurements for them ?


----------



## nycgtr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tiefox*
> 
> BTW, really nice what you have don to your primo, I'm curious on the custom panels you put inside, do you have the model or measurements for them ?


I didn't write it down lol. It depends on what you plan on putting inside the panels would be different size. One thing I've noticed is once you go past 2 large rads in this case, the temps don't really improve. I think once you go past 2 large ones the hot air starts building up heating the inside effecting temps. Don't get me wrong temps are good with 2 480s and a 360, but I don't think it would be much different with just 2 480s.


----------



## tiefox

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nycgtr*
> 
> I didn't write it down lol. It depends on what you plan on putting inside the panels would be different size. One thing I've noticed is once you go past 2 large rads in this case, the temps don't really improve. I think once you go past 2 large ones the hot air starts building up heating the inside effecting temps. Don't get me wrong temps are good with 2 480s and a 360, but I don't think it would be much different with just 2 480s.


Thanks for the info. I have already 16 ML140 fans that I will be using, so hopefully I will get some good airflow through it. But even if it nots super efficient, for me the fun will be building it


----------



## TheAbyss

Hey nycgtr, planning on doing something similar to my Luxe (talked to Doyll recently about that). What did you use to Close the back of the Primo?


----------



## flameas

Damn, thats a nice tempered glass mod. Would pay for that









Also, does anyone have any info regarding replacements for Primo and Luxe? They still seem cool, but could use updates


----------



## doyll

@tiefox, really like your window mod.









Some of us use castor bases to increase airflow area to bottom of case .. stock venting is about same size as a single 120mm fan's airflow area. I've built several. Raising case 35mm gives vent airflow area about same as 4x 120mm fans have.
Easy is blocks under corners, Primo Midas on 30mm castors, another on 30mm casters, and one with 40mm castor base.


----------



## TheAbyss

Very good Idea Doyll, given that I had the same in mind when I planned my rework of my Luxe.. the only issue I have.. what would be the german term for this... in order to search the web for it...


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheAbyss*
> 
> Very good Idea Doyll, given that I had the same in mind when I planned my rework of my Luxe.. the only issue I have.. what would be the german term for this... in order to search the web for it...


LOL Yeah, sometimes Googling for something can be very hard. Here is a link to my design and guide as well as details of bottom vent area.
http://phanteks.com/forum/showthread.php?510-Tips-amp-Guides

If you have problems finding castors, I have a few sources here in UK. I've made and sold a bunch of these castor bases for different cases using this basic design.


----------



## TheAbyss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> LOL Yeah, sometimes Googling for something can be very hard. Here is a link to my design and guide as well as details of bottom vent area.
> http://phanteks.com/forum/showthread.php?510-Tips-amp-Guides
> 
> If you have problems finding castors, I have a few sources here in UK. I've made and sold a bunch of these castor bases for different cases using this basic design.


Thanks a lot.... that helps enourmosly!!!


----------



## nycgtr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheAbyss*
> 
> Hey nycgtr, planning on doing something similar to my Luxe (talked to Doyll recently about that). What did you use to Close the back of the Primo?


what do you mean by close the back of the primo? My stock door still fits.


----------



## =GzR=SmokeyDevil

With the upcoming Black Friday/Cyber Monday deals, it's about time for me to return to the frays of the Overclock Forums.
Currently sitting on two builds. One is a 2013 build in the Phanteks Enthoo Primo and the other is a 2015 build in the Phanteks Evolv.
I will eventually be transplanting the more up-to-date hardware into the full-tower Primo and setting up the mid-tower Evolv as a 'utility' PC for streaming and network storage.

Here are photos of each build:

Enthoo Primo


Evolv


Build logs for each to follow in separate threads.


----------



## flameas

Finally ordered my Luxe TG and 2M lightning strip. Will be a fun build







Though, will needs to cut some holes to the power supply shroud - wanna utilize the bottom fans.


----------



## Essenbe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *flameas*
> 
> Finally ordered my Luxe TG and 2M lightning strip. Will be a fun build
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Though, will needs to cut some holes to the power supply shroud - wanna utilize the bottom fans.


Good luck with the Luxe. I just ordered one too.


----------



## flameas

Thanks







Almost bought a View 71, but then realized - do I really want a massive glass box? Also want to do push-pull with top mounted AIO


----------



## bobfig

put some 20% tint on the window and looks much better.

from


to


----------



## Dominican

can someone post water cooling build for Phanteks Enthoo Luxe


----------



## Essenbe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dominican*
> 
> can someone post water cooling build for Phanteks Enthoo Luxe


Yea, with an EVGA 1080 TI FTW 3.


----------



## Mooncheese

Hi everyone, I am looking for a new case for a water cooling build (current case is an Air 540 and it's cramped) and want to go with 140mm radiators, ideally a 280mm and a 420mm rad. I have settled on three cases:

1. Fractal Design S
2. Corsair 780T
3. Phanteks Enthoo Pro M (Tempered Glass)

My question is, can I fit a 420mm radiator (EK SE 420, 26mm thick) in the ceiling of the Pro M if I remove the 5.25" drive bay?

And how thick of a 280 can I run in the front?

Thanks for any help in advance.


----------



## nycgtr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mooncheese*
> 
> Hi everyone, I am looking for a new case for a water cooling build (current case is an Air 540 and it's cramped) and want to go with 140mm radiators, ideally a 280mm and a 420mm rad. I have settled on three cases:
> 
> 1. Fractal Design S
> 2. Corsair 780T
> 3. Phanteks Enthoo Pro M (Tempered Glass)
> 
> My question is, can I fit a 420mm radiator (EK SE 420, 26mm thick) in the ceiling of the Pro M if I remove the 5.25" drive bay?
> 
> And how thick of a 280 can I run in the front?
> 
> Thanks for any help in advance.


Get a 780t. You will have more space and more airflow and you won't be playing a game of peg i the square hole with smaller cases.


----------



## Mooncheese

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nycgtr*
> 
> Get a 780t. You will have more space and more airflow and you won't be playing a game of peg i the square hole with smaller cases.


Yeah 780T was my initial pick but it looks a bit dated and the all plastic build looks cheap and it's side panel window is too small for my taste. It looks like a case from 2014 because it is. To top it all off it's still going for $150+ whereas I could pick up an Enthoo Pro M for $100 out the door ($115 for the SE variant with two RGB fans and white interior).

Also, you can't mount a 420mm radiator in the ceiling of the 780T, whereas with the Enthoo Pro M it looks like it's a real possibility. Still waiting on confirmation on that.


----------



## Mooncheese

Alternatively, considering I already have an EK PE 360 and PE 240 ordered and in transit (I was planning on returning these for a 420 and 280 rad as my case plans have changed and I'm partial to 140mm radiators as they move more air and are quieter at 50% RPM, which is what I run them at) would this be adequate for a 1080 Ti FE, stock vbios (300W) @ 1.0v and an 8700k + VRM (monoblock)?

From what I gather the 120mm per component +1 still mostly holds but I like to run my fans at no more than 50% RPM so I'm thinking I might need more surface area. Right now I'm looking at maybe 450-500W and a 360 and 240 should be good for 450W + 300W respectively?

I'm positive I can fit the PE 360 in the ceiling and the 240 in the front but would much rather go with 140mm radiators. I may just hold on to what I got assuming I wont have to deal with the ridiculous 120mm buzz buzz buzzing noise at anything above 50% RPM.

Thanks in advance.


----------



## Mooncheese

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> I would recommend running a 360 & 240/280, a 360 would cover it but just barely due to the heat you'll be dumping into the loop with the OC'd 7700k and if you OC the 1080Ti's. I would recommend against external rads in the event you need to travel with the rig etc (just not a fan of them since cases are designed well enough now to keep everything internal)


Hello, I'm moving back from the end of this thread and found your post which relates to my previous question about radiator support in Phanteks' Enthoo Pro M (Tempered). I already have a PE 360 and a PE 240 on hand but am worried that for inaudible operation, i.e. no more than 50% RPM on the fans, that my temps would be less than ideal with a 1080 Ti FE (default vbios, 300W, 1.0v) and a delidded 8700k including it's VRM's under a monoblock.

Do you think I would be able to say, keep the GPU under 45C and the CPU from spiking over 70C at low fan speed with this amount of rad surface area with say 65F ambient?

Thanks in advance.


----------



## nycgtr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mooncheese*
> 
> Hello, I'm moving back from the end of this thread and found your post which relates to my previous question about radiator support in Phanteks' Enthoo Pro M (Tempered). I already have a PE 360 and a PE 240 on hand but am worried that for inaudible operation, i.e. no more than 50% RPM on the fans, that my temps would be less than ideal with a 1080 Ti FE (default vbios, 300W, 1.0v) and a delidded 8700k including it's VRM's under a monoblock.
> 
> Do you think I would be able to say, keep the GPU under 45C and the CPU from spiking over 70C at low fan speed with this amount of rad surface area with say 65F ambient?
> 
> Thanks in advance.


I can only speak for the evolv as I have that and it's the same chassis as the pro m. Temp wise, its feasible but 45c on the gpu thats tough for a overclocked ti. I get about that 42-44 with 2 titans on a 480 and 360 dedicated loop the same if I just ran 1 card.


----------



## Mooncheese

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nycgtr*
> 
> I can only speak for the evolv as I have that and it's the same chassis as the pro m. Temp wise, its feasible but 45c on the gpu thats tough for a overclocked ti. I get about that 42-44 with 2 titans on a 480 and 360 dedicated loop the same if I just ran 1 card.


It's overclocked so to speak as it does 2025 MHz with an undervolt of 1.0v via freq - voltage curve in Afterburner. But technically it's not putting out more than 300W (120% PT, default FE vbios). It will hit 55C under sustained 100% load in intensive games such as The Witcher 3 in 3D Vision at 2560x1440 but typically, in any other 2D title it doesn't get over 50C with an AIO jury-rigged to the core (NZXT X41 140mm AIO). I can't imagine it performing worse with 3x the rad surface area, but I'm completely new to water-cooling (been into this since 2014 but am only now diving into WC) and don't know how much rad surface area is needed for the entire GPU, the MOSFET's and VRM. From what I gather though, the majority of the heat in a loop is from the GPU, hence the reason GPU's typically perform much better than CPU's, but when CPU utilization spikes you can expect temps to get up there pretty quick. I imagine a PE 360 and PE 240 would be able to keep the GPU under 45C where I'm at considering people, including Bitwit, have gotten away with 50C on a GTX 1080 and an overclocked 7700k with EK's aluminum 240G kit alone (25mm thick):






Yeah I am using an 8700k with two additional cores and I will have the VRM cooled with a monoblock and a 1080 Ti is a good 50% more wattage and power vs. a 1080 but I think this is a useful comparison anyhow. Some people go overboard with the rad surface area thing, I just don't want to install everything and find that I'm not happy with the performance but have a feeling I'm ok considering the notable difference between a single aluminum 240x25mm radiator and a copper and brass 360x45mm + 240x45mm radiator combo.


----------



## nycgtr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mooncheese*
> 
> It's overclocked so to speak as it does 2025 MHz with an undervolt of 1.0v via freq - voltage curve in Afterburner. But technically it's not putting out more than 300W (120% PT, default FE vbios). It will hit 55C under sustained 100% load in intensive games such as The Witcher 3 in 3D Vision at 2560x1440 but typically, in any other 2D title it doesn't get over 50C with an AIO jury-rigged to the core (NZXT X41 140mm AIO). I can't imagine it performing worse with 3x the rad surface area, but I'm completely new to water-cooling (been into this since 2014 but am only now diving into WC) and don't know how much rad surface area is needed for the entire GPU, the MOSFET's and VRM. From what I gather though, the majority of the heat in a loop is from the GPU, hence the reason GPU's typically perform much better than CPU's, but when CPU utilization spikes you can expect temps to get up there pretty quick. I imagine a PE 360 and PE 240 would be able to keep the GPU under 45C where I'm at considering people, including Bitwit, have gotten away with 50C on a GTX 1080 and an overclocked 7700k with EK's aluminum 240G kit alone (25mm thick):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah I am using an 8700k with two additional cores and I will have the VRM cooled with a monoblock and a 1080 Ti is a good 50% more wattage and power vs. a 1080 but I think this is a useful comparison anyhow. Some people go overboard with the rad surface area thing, I just don't want to install everything and find that I'm not happy with the performance but have a feeling I'm ok considering the notable difference between a single aluminum 240x25mm radiator and a copper and brass 360x45mm + 240x45mm radiator combo.


You can't compare a 1080 heat to a ti. It's very different. My 1080s didn't even hit 40c, also everyone's ambient is different. Also Pascal max boost isn't really effected until 55c so


----------



## Gohan_Nightwing

*DELETED*


----------



## Gohan_Nightwing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dominican*
> 
> can someone post water cooling build for Phanteks Enthoo Luxe


I recently ordered a kit from EKWB. This will be my first water cooling build, but I do have an Enthoo Luxe. If you want, I can take pictures of the end result and post them in the forum. Probably won't be pretty though hahah


----------



## Aby67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gohan_Nightwing*
> 
> I recently ordered a kit from EKWB. This will be my first water cooling build, but I do have an Enthoo Luxe. If you want, I can take pictures of the end result and post them in the forum. Probably won't be pretty though hahah


Nice so You going into Your first time ever Wcooling build.....
I can only recommend You to buy like phobya external power supply for wen You will fill the loop, or a PSU jumper, so that the motherboard and all the other component will not be connected while u test the loop......it can easily happen that You will spill water.
Also, whatever tube of fitting You bought wash them with mild temperature water a lot because they can be abundantly dirty from the manufacturing just as the radiators so wash a lot rinse a lot...if You will set up a good silent fan system You will never go back to air cooling.

Also remember to check Your loop form time to time and install something like core temp that has overheat protection so that in case something breaks you can maybe salvage the system form water spilling out...it never happened to me but if it will happen dont even wait for the computer to shut down , just pull the plug from the wall socket as fast as you can and do not turn on Your PC for at least a good 4 5 days.
ALSO keep in mind that *even if the PSU is NOT plugged to the wall there is tons of electricity stored in it*, so whatever Yo do wear a lot of rubber! You can still get electrocuted.

good luck!

so much fun!


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nycgtr*
> 
> You can't compare a 1080 heat to a ti. It's very different. My 1080s didn't even hit 40c, also everyone's ambient is different. Also Pascal max boost isn't really effected until 55c so


Indeed.
While our room ambient temps are probably rather similar, the air temp going into GPU and CPU cooler fans is often 10-15c higher then room ambient, especially when working hard. That is why I preach case airflow so much .. and one of the many reasons I like Phanteks .. their case fans work well and only need a little adjustment / adding few fans to get great case airflow.

Edit: "Ways to Better Cooling" link in my sig, 5th post is about optimizing case airflow.


----------



## Aby67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Indeed.
> While our room ambient temps are probably rather similar, the air temp going into GPU and CPU cooler fans is often 10-15c higher then room ambient, especially when working hard. That is why I preach case airflow so much .. and one of the many reasons I like Phanteks .. their case fans work well and only need a little adjustment / adding few fans to get great case airflow.
> 
> Edit: "Ways to Better Cooling" link in my sig, 5th post is about optimizing case airflow.


Hehe...I preach instead of using radiators outside the case in a waterbox..if its really 15C that is a massive amount of heat You dont want on Your CPU nor GPU....It is now 7 years I dont install a radiator inside a PC case..so I wouldnt even remember the temperatures difference...all I can Say is that when I run 150watt TPD dual cpus at full load My max temps are 55/57 c with room temperature 24 ..idle is 32 and below 28 in cold days


----------



## Mooncheese

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nycgtr*
> 
> You can't compare a 1080 heat to a ti. It's very different. My 1080s didn't even hit 40c, also everyone's ambient is different. Also Pascal max boost isn't really effected until 55c so


Yes and no, you can get an idea of how much watts a 240mmx25mm aluminum radiator effectively dissipates (at greater fan RPM obviously) though, and the old rule-of-thumb of 1x 120mm radiator surface area per component (+1 added at the end) seems to hold here surprisingly well considering Bitwit had an overclocked 7700k and a non-overclocked GTX 1080. We're looking at maybe 350W total?

Anyhow, the point is moot as I've got confirmation via Newegg inquiry that yes, a slim 420mm rad (55mm total clearance before memory and motherboard) and 25mm fan will fit in the top of an Enthoo Pro M (tempered in my case, but they are all the same internally) and I managed to snag what appears to be the last EK SE 420 rad in existence through performance-pcs.com (no other outlets, ebay, newegg, amazon.com, etc. to include EK themselves have this in stock) and it's on it's way along with an EK CE 280 that I'm going to set up as push pull in the front exhausting out of the case (filter and possibly mesh removed). The single 28mm 420 in the ceiling will look a lot cleaner and block less of the motherboard vs. a 45mm thick 360 hanging down and it will perform better with only one fan pushing and with 140mm fans it will be much quieter at 50% RPM vs. 120mm fans at 50% RPM. Lower RPM, moving more air out of the case, winner winner chicken dinner. I will have the rear 140mm fan as intake and will remove all of the pci-e slot covers to allow for adequate airflow into the case. I don't give a crap about dust, I prefer superior airflow over my components whilst pushing all of the heat out of the case. I see people with front mounted radiators intaking over their mobo, reservoir, tubing, GPU blocks, CPU VRM's, HDD's, SSD's and I cringe. I cringe even more when they advocate setting up their accompanying celiing mounted rad as intake as well, and then they run dust filters in front of the radiators in question. It's basic physics, heat = entropy. But you do whatever floats your boat, me I will push all of the heat out of the case. I just go in there once every two weeks with my DataVac electric duster and it takes about 5 minutes to deal with the dust. Done deal.

(I cringe even that much more when various youtubers whove amassed an audience such as SilencedTech run their AIO cooled GPU's radiators as intake, dumping incedibly warm air (120mm AIO vs. 200W+ GPU) direclty back into the GPU's VRM fan: 



)
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aby67*
> 
> Nice so You going into Your first time ever Wcooling build.....
> I can only recommend You to buy like phobya external power supply for wen You will fill the loop, or a PSU jumper, so that the motherboard and all the other component will not be connected while u test the loop......it can easily happen that You will spill water.
> Also, whatever tube of fitting You bought wash them with mild temperature water a lot because they can be abundantly dirty from the manufacturing just as the radiators so wash a lot rinse a lot...if You will set up a good silent fan system You will never go back to air cooling.
> 
> Also remember to check Your loop form time to time and install something like core temp that has overheat protection so that in case something breaks you can maybe salvage the system form water spilling out...it never happened to me but if it will happen dont even wait for the computer to shut down , just pull the plug from the wall socket as fast as you can and do not turn on Your PC for at least a good 4 5 days.
> ALSO keep in mind that *even if the PSU is NOT plugged to the wall there is tons of electricity stored in it*, so whatever Yo do wear a lot of rubber! You can still get electrocuted.
> 
> good luck!
> 
> so much fun!


Excellent advice! I already was planning on having the PSU outside and away from the loop during leak testing but wasn't even considering cleaning the tubing and radiators beforehand.


----------



## owcraftsman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dominican*
> 
> can someone post water cooling build for Phanteks Enthoo Luxe


There are some in my signature below


----------



## nycgtr

nevermind not gonna get into it.


----------



## ciarlatano

@Mooncheese - a 420 SE? Seriously? You went with a 420 that has lesser performance than almost every 360 on the market? Just so you can have a 420? Brilliant.


----------



## Mooncheese

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> @mooncheese - a 420 SE? Seriously? You went with a 420 that has lesser performance than almost every 360 on the market? Just so you can have a 420? Brilliant.


A 420x28 rad is vastly superior to a 360x45 rad WHEN ONLY ONE FAN IS USED.

A 360x45 rad with TWO FANS IN PUSH-PULL WILL EXHIBIT COMPARABLE PERFORMANCE TO A SLIM 420.

And last but not least, 140mm fans are WAY quieter and move WAY more air at 50% RPM:

http://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/ek-performance-280-360-open-loop-liquid-configurable-cooling-kit,4765-2.html

Yes youre reading that correctly, a 280 rad is identical to a 360 at 50% RPM but ouputs 24 db vs. 27 db.

https://img.purch.com/w/755/aHR0cDovL21lZGlhLmJlc3RvZm1pY3JvLmNvbS9OL1gvNjE3NzU3L29yaWdpbmFsL0VLLVAzNjBfQmVuY2hfNC5qcGc=

Hmmmm, but wait, youre saying that a SINGLE FAN 360 is not only better than a 280 but even better than a 420?

MAYBE, and that's a big MAYBE, a PE 360 with two fans push pull MIGHT be COMPARABLE to a slim 420. But in this case in particular (where you can't mount your pull fan outside of the case, well you theoretically can but it will look completely ******ed) youre going to block off half your motherboard and my Coffee Lake mobo LOOKS ABSOLUTELY FABULOUS THANK-YOU. (45+25+25 = 5 inches hanging down in front of memory, northbridge, and monoblock vs. 28+25 = 2 inches obstructing view of glorious Coffe Lake Aorus Gaming 7 monoblock: https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-fb-ga-z270x-rgb-monoblock-nickel

https://www.tweaktown.com/reviews/8377/gigabyte-z370-aorus-gaming-7-motherboard-review/index6.html

That and you better get ready for take-off with the buzz buzz 120mm fan buzzing at anything above 50% RPM! Quad-copter take off in 10, 9, 8, 7, 6....!

Best of all for me is that I have like 6 of these 140mm fans sitting around to choose from and the Enthoo Pro M SE I'm getting comes with two in more so I don't need to buy EK Vardar 120s fans at $20 a pop.


----------



## Mooncheese

Following up on my last post:

Here, straight from EK who conducted and published their own findings on thick vs. thin, comparing an SE 360 to a PE 240. The slimmer 360 is vastly better at lower RPM, which is exactly where I'm going to be, because I don't like my computer sounding like a quad-copter getting ready for take-off thank-you.

https://www.ekwb.com/blog/radiators-part-3-surface-thickness/

You always want to go thinner and bigger if your goal is less noise. The only reason why you go thicker and smaller is because of space constraints, but then you need to run your fans at exponentially greater RPM to match the performance of a slimmer and larger rad.

"In the chart above, we can easily see how the slimmest SE 360 radiator beats the thickest XE 240 in every aspect. If you are after a silent liquid cooled build, and you have the option to mount a 360mm radiator, by all means, the SE 360 is the way to go.

Many presume that thick radiators are packed with super-powers and will bring extreme cooling performances, but things are more complicated than that. But why is it so? In previous radiator blog posts, we already talked about how radiators work. In a push configuration, cold air is pushed in by a fan from one side of the radiator and warm air leaves at the other side of the radiator. Heat is being transferred from the liquid to the radiator fins, and onto the air that is pushed through by the fan. By these simple steps, heat from a CPU or GPU is leaving your PC in a form of warm air...

...Imagine that an XE 120 60mm thick radiator is actually three slim radiators packed on top of each other. As the fins are being cooled from bottom to top, the air that passes through the radiator is being warmed up. This means that when the air reaches the third and last radiator in the imaginary stack, it's not cool enough to provide efficient cooling. If you remember from our Radiators Part 2 blog, the greater the difference between the coolant temperature and the ambient temperature, which is the temperature of the air passing through the radiator, the better cooling performance you will have."


----------



## museumman

Yes, more pics please people









My Enthoo Pro M TG Ryzen build.


----------



## SOCOM_HERO

Looking to do some upgrades to my WC setup. I have a Enthoo Pro M SE. What kind of pump can I mount in the basement? If I go with a pump/res combo like an EK D5 140mm kit, can that be mounted on the floor of the case in front of the fans? Currently I have jerryriged my DDC 3.1 pump/res combo on it, but I want to have a more secure mounting location. Here's what I have now with a top mounted 240 res, 5.25" bay removed.

The current tubing looks like crap because it came straight out of another case and was placed in this one, hence my pending upgrade. I'm considering moving to hardline, as the case could benefit from straight, clean runs.


----------



## bobfig

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SOCOM_HERO*
> 
> Looking to do some upgrades to my WC setup. I have a Enthoo Pro M SE. What kind of pump can I mount in the basement? If I go with a pump/res combo like an EK D5 140mm kit, can that be mounted on the floor of the case in front of the fans? Currently I have jerryriged my DDC 3.1 pump/res combo on it, but I want to have a more secure mounting location. Here's what I have now with a top mounted 240 res, 5.25" bay removed.
> 
> The current tubing looks like crap because it came straight out of another case and was placed in this one, hence my pending upgrade. I'm considering moving to hardline, as the case could benefit from straight, clean runs.


could always do a thin 360 on the front and a res mount onto the fan if you have enough room between the fan and gfx card. add a couple of 90º rotory fittings and could be good to go


----------



## SOCOM_HERO

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bobfig*
> 
> could always do a thin 360 on the front and a res mount onto the fan if you have enough room between the fan and gfx card. add a couple of 90º rotory fittings and could be good to go


I would, but I feel that the 240 is plenty adequate to cool the CPU. I just need to visualize how this would look with hard tubing. I would like to re-position the pump/res so that its inlet/outlet are facing out towards the window. I could flip the in/out of the res to be nearly over the CPU, but I'm not sure how that would look or if it would even be possible.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Could alway separate the res from the pump and mount the pump in the basement and mount the res to the accessory adapter section of the Mobo tray/ inner wall of the case. I have my dual d5's in the basement and will be doing pass-thru's to connect them to my res (EK-RES X3 250 RGB)

Also a 240mm rad is enough for you CPU, only time I would recommend a 360 is if you add your GPU to the loop etc.


----------



## Gohan_Nightwing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dominican*
> 
> can someone post water cooling build for Phanteks Enthoo Luxe


My first ever water cooling setup







. I hope it helps!


----------



## nycgtr

Had to empty the primo, moved the TR into the evolv.


----------



## Mjhieu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dominican*
> 
> can someone post water cooling build for Phanteks Enthoo Luxe


Here you are :


----------



## patryk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krahe*
> 
> Finally started completing my Primo build after a delay due to being put off work, must admit I nearly gave up on bending those bloody pipes. Hopefully receive the rest of the components early next week. Apologies for the poor quality photos
> 
> http://s25.photobucket.com/user/spritzen/media/DSCN0377_zpsjmhtnwki.jpg.html
> 
> Its a matrix of pipes
> 
> http://s25.photobucket.com/user/spritzen/media/DSCN0378_zpsf1sdarqp.jpg.html


how you mount XSPC rad on botton he have width 130cm
and the width of the case in this place is max 127cm ?


----------



## DarthBaggins

with a shoe horn, lol


----------



## =GzR=SmokeyDevil

I know I'm bringing up a old topic; however, just wanted to share my research on the issue of the push latches not working/breaking on the Enthoo Primo.
Found the manufacturer page for the part: https://www.sugatsune.com/products/productdetails.cfm?catid=3&subcatid=3&productid=PR-4PK

Current retailers:
https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA0SD6CV5978
https://www.amazon.com/Sugatsune-Lamp-PR-4PK-Catches-Latches/dp/B00IKFRA9G
https://www.walmart.com/ip/LAMP-PR-4PK-Non-Mag-Mini-Touch-Latch/41042228
https://www.grainger.com/product/LAMP-Grab-Non-locking-Grab-Catch-5ENW3
https://www.americanbuildersoutlet.com/sugatsune-pr-4pk-non-magnetic-mini-touch-latch.html
https://www.zoro.com/lamp-grab-catch-pull-to-open-spring-26-lb-pr-4pk/i/G2145595/
http://ahturf.com/store/index.php?route=product/category&path=26941_4610_27660_27661_6627_7515


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *=GzR=SmokeyDevil*
> 
> I know I'm bringing up a old topic; however, just wanted to share my research on the issue of the push latches not working/breaking on the Enthoo Primo.
> Found the manufacturer page for the part: https://www.sugatsune.com/products/productdetails.cfm?catid=3&subcatid=3&productid=PR-4PK
> 
> Current retailers:
> https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA0SD6CV5978
> https://www.amazon.com/Sugatsune-Lamp-PR-4PK-Catches-Latches/dp/B00IKFRA9G
> https://www.walmart.com/ip/LAMP-PR-4PK-Non-Mag-Mini-Touch-Latch/41042228


Thanks for the updated sources.








+rep


----------



## 2002whitegt

Decided to go completely air cooling in my new build. Still don't have the guts to do a hard tube water cool system.

The Phanteks Evolv MATX made me fall in love with Phanteks cases, but though it was a just a tad bit too tall. The ITX version is the perfect size in my opinion. It can fit just about any air cooler or aio and the biggest 2 slot video cards out there.

Happy with the Noctua nh-d15s performance, and the chromax covers and fans are a good match with the color scheme.

Specs:
Intel Core i7-7700k
MSI Duke GTX 1080ti
16gb GSKill RAM
500 Samsung 850 SSD
2TB Seagate HDD
Corsair RM 750x


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *2002whitegt*
> 
> Decided to go completely air cooling in my new build. Still don't have the guts to do a hard tube water cool system.
> 
> The Phanteks Evolv MATX made me fall in love with Phanteks cases, but though it was a just a tad bit too tall. The ITX version is the perfect size in my opinion. It can fit just about any air cooler or aio and the biggest 2 slot video cards out there.
> 
> Happy with the Noctua nh-d15s performance, and the chromax covers and fans are a good match with the color scheme.
> 
> Specs:
> Intel Core i7-7700k
> MSI Duke GTX 1080ti
> 16gb GSKill RAM
> 500 Samsung 850 SSD
> 2TB Seagate HDD
> Corsair RM 750x
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Noctua went from having the ugliest coolers/fans in the world to possibly the best looking ones, build looks great.


----------



## owcraftsman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *=GzR=SmokeyDevil*
> 
> I know I'm bringing up a old topic; however, just wanted to share my research on the issue of the push latches not working/breaking on the Enthoo Primo.
> Found the manufacturer page for the part: https://www.sugatsune.com/products/productdetails.cfm?catid=3&subcatid=3&productid=PR-4PK
> 
> Current retailers:
> https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA0SD6CV5978
> https://www.amazon.com/Sugatsune-Lamp-PR-4PK-Catches-Latches/dp/B00IKFRA9G
> https://www.walmart.com/ip/LAMP-PR-4PK-Non-Mag-Mini-Touch-Latch/41042228


Great timing just reworked my Primo and need some of these +Rep


----------



## pez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *2002whitegt*
> 
> Decided to go completely air cooling in my new build. Still don't have the guts to do a hard tube water cool system.
> 
> The Phanteks Evolv MATX made me fall in love with Phanteks cases, but though it was a just a tad bit too tall. The ITX version is the perfect size in my opinion. It can fit just about any air cooler or aio and the biggest 2 slot video cards out there.
> 
> Happy with the Noctua nh-d15s performance, and the chromax covers and fans are a good match with the color scheme.
> 
> Specs:
> Intel Core i7-7700k
> MSI Duke GTX 1080ti
> 16gb GSKill RAM
> 500 Samsung 850 SSD
> 2TB Seagate HDD
> Corsair RM 750x
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Awesome to see this. Looks great! About to retire my last Phanteks case which happens to be a normal Evolv ITX. Glad to see this case still getting love







.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *2002whitegt*
> 
> Decided to go completely air cooling in my new build. Still don't have the guts to do a hard tube water cool system.
> 
> The Phanteks Evolv MATX made me fall in love with Phanteks cases, but though it was a just a tad bit too tall. The ITX version is the perfect size in my opinion. It can fit just about any air cooler or aio and the biggest 2 slot video cards out there.
> 
> Happy with the Noctua nh-d15s performance, and the chromax covers and fans are a good match with the color scheme.
> 
> Specs:
> Intel Core i7-7700k
> MSI Duke GTX 1080ti
> 16gb GSKill RAM
> 500 Samsung 850 SSD
> 2TB Seagate HDD
> Corsair RM 750x
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Very nice clean build!









Really shows off components. I'm torn between thinking CPU cooler Chromax cooler covers should be black or if GPU shroud should be white .. or would both the same color be too much white / not enough color.


----------



## d0mmie

Has anyone tried using the Phanteks RGB LED Adapter for the Luxe/Eclipse P400/Evolv ATX case with an Asus Strix 10xx series graphics card instead of an Asus motherboard?

Reason I'm asking is that my motherboard does support Aura Sync, but does not have a LED connector (Z270 TUF MK1). I reckon I should be able to just connect the RGB LED Adaptor directly to the graphics card instead and still be able to control the lightening with the Luxe frontpanel controller.


----------



## furywins

I'm thinking of building another rig for personal gaming use. I've narrowed it down to the Pro M TG and the P400S TG. Which would you recommend? I really like how the P400S looks but I'm concerned about the thermals considering the restrictive front panel.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *furywins*
> 
> I'm thinking of building another rig for personal gaming use. I've narrowed it down to the Pro M TG and the P400S TG. Which would you recommend? I really like how the P400S looks but I'm concerned about the thermals considering the restrictive front panel.


Pro M over P400 any day. Much better airflow, 140mm fans instead of 120mm fans, 194mm CPU clearance vs 160mm,

P400 is entry level, and while Pro M is not high level it is a big step up from P400


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *furywins*
> 
> I'm thinking of building another rig for personal gaming use. I've narrowed it down to the Pro M TG and the P400S TG. Which would you recommend? I really like how the P400S looks but I'm concerned about the thermals considering the restrictive front panel.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Pro M over P400 any day. Much better airflow, 140mm fans instead of 120mm fans, 194mm CPU clearance vs 160mm,
> 
> P400 is entry level, and while Pro M is not high level it is a big step up from P400


Agree with @doyll. Pro M, and not even a question.


----------



## furywins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Pro M over P400 any day. Much better airflow, 140mm fans instead of 120mm fans, 194mm CPU clearance vs 160mm,
> 
> P400 is entry level, and while Pro M is not high level it is a big step up from P400


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Agree with @doyll. Pro M, and not even a question.


Yeah I thought as much.


----------



## SLOWION

Threw a build together in the Phanteks Evolv Shift







It took me forever to put this thing together but now I'm getting terrible gaming performance and distorted audio, pretty sure my PCIe riser cable is trash


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SLOWION*
> 
> Threw a build together in the Phanteks Evolv Shift
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It took me forever to put this thing together but now I'm getting terrible gaming performance and distorted audio, pretty sure my PCIe riser cable is trash


I like the way it looks! Nice job.

Yeah, PCIe cables are problematic. Seems only the very expensive ones work well, and even then some do not. One source I know if that is good is MNPCtech. While I have not used one of his, Bill does not sell anything he would not use himself.
https://mnpctech.com/case-mods-gaming-pc-liquid-modding-custom-computer-mnpctech-overclock-cooling-fan-grills/ezdiy-pci-express-16x-black-flexible-riser-graphics-card-extension-cable.html


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SLOWION*
> 
> Threw a build together in the Phanteks Evolv Shift
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It took me forever to put this thing together but now I'm getting terrible gaming performance and distorted audio, pretty sure my PCIe riser cable is trash


That pump as the highest point setup is just a failure waiting to happen. Any way to get the rad above the pump?


----------



## nycgtr

Wrapped the evolv matte black metallic. Now it can be grey or black I guess


----------



## bajer29

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nycgtr*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wrapped the evolv matte black metallic. Now it can be grey or black I guess


Looks really good, can you wrap my car too?


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nycgtr*
> 
> 
> 
> Wrapped the evolv matte black metallic. Now it can be grey or black I guess


Nice!
Wonder what it would look like wrapped in carbon-fiber film.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nycgtr*
> 
> 
> 
> Wrapped the evolv matte black metallic. Now it can be grey or black I guess


Which wrap did you use? Looks really nice.


----------



## nycgtr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Nice!
> Wonder what it would look like wrapped in carbon-fiber film.


Well I do have carbon fiber wrap on hand and I think someone previously in the evolv thread wrapped theirs CF. I really like the stock grey and I didn't wanna give it up but the modmymods panel I had was black and my case was grey LOL. Had to make it work out for me.







 Since I liked the black and grey version of this case I went for a wrap that looks black or grey depending on lighting.


----------



## nycgtr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Which wrap did you use? Looks really nice.


VViViD+ Matte Metallic Black Vinyl Wrap


----------



## ghoula

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Nice!
> Wonder what it would look like wrapped in carbon-fiber film.


Like this


----------



## SLOWION

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> I like the way it looks! Nice job.
> 
> Yeah, PCIe cables are problematic. Seems only the very expensive ones work well, and even then some do not. One source I know if that is good is MNPCtech. While I have not used one of his, Bill does not sell anything he would not use himself.
> https://mnpctech.com/case-mods-gaming-pc-liquid-modding-custom-computer-mnpctech-overclock-cooling-fan-grills/ezdiy-pci-express-16x-black-flexible-riser-graphics-card-extension-cable.html


Thanks I'll have to check that one out


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SLOWION*
> 
> Thanks I'll have to check that one out


They're on amazon for 23-25$, alternatively I heard that the ones from Li-Heat are good too, although I'm not quite sure where to actually buy those.

p.s. Aside from actual custom parts, I'd advise against buying from mnpctech, a lot of the off the shelf stuff they sell is a massive ripoff and can be had for much less somewhere else.


----------



## furywins

Should i get a Meshify C or a Pro M? I wonder how they compare airflow wise.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *furywins*
> 
> Should i get a Meshify C or a Pro M? I wonder how they compare airflow wise.


Seems you want the Enthoo Pro M or you wouldn't be asking your question in the Phanteks case thread.


----------



## furywins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Seems you want the Enthoo Pro M or you wouldn't be asking your question in the Phanteks case thread.


lol maybe. I think the only thing bothering me is that the fans are not perfectly lined up and some people complaining about the build quality.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *furywins*
> 
> lol maybe. I think the only thing bothering me is that the fans are not perfectly lined up and some people complaining about the build quality.


I have never seen anyone complain about the build quality on a Pro M. It is incredible for the price.


----------



## furywins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> I have never seen anyone complain about the build quality on a Pro M. It is incredible for the price.


I've seen a lot of complaints on Reddit and some other sites.


----------



## DarthBaggins

And people on Reddit are to be trusted. Lol - I have zero complaints on my Pro M SE


----------



## SOCOM_HERO

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *furywins*
> 
> lol maybe. I think the only thing bothering me is that the fans are not perfectly lined up and some people complaining about the build quality.


My last case was a Fractal, I picked Phanteks (The Pro M SE) due to superior layout and extras. I have worked extensively in both, and TBH, the Phanteks is lacking fine detail in some places that don't matter a lot, but the possibilities with it are superior in every way. I would do it again.


----------



## pez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *furywins*
> 
> Should i get a Meshify C or a Pro M? I wonder how they compare airflow wise.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Seems you want the Enthoo Pro M or you wouldn't be asking your question in the Phanteks case thread.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *furywins*
> 
> lol maybe. I think the only thing bothering me is that the fans are not perfectly lined up and some people complaining about the build quality.


As someone who had a Pro M and now a Meshify C, it's hard to say. The Meshify C is a significantly smaller case. If you're sure it will fit your needs and you don't need the extra size, then it's a great choice, i think. I'm a big fan of the captive screws, bottom filter that removes from the front and the smaller (but ATX) layout. Oh and the sandblasted finish (on the parts that actually are metal) is really nice.

The Pro M offers a lot more space, great airflow (just as good if not better than the Meshify C), and a great build quality. If watercooling is your end-game, then I think the Pro M will make it an easier task.

Not sure this really helps you in the end, but I think the cases are for two different types of people. Outside of similar airflow characteristics, their layouts differ in enough ways I feel that people either need the space or they don't. Choose the one that hast he features you want/need and I don't think you'll be dissatisfied with either.


----------



## doyll

What pez and others have said.









Both are good lower-priced then most with many nice features.

I think the Phanteks 140mm case fan is superior to the Fractal 120mm case fan .. Phanteks fans is and I believe both need to have 2x front intakes so aditional fans need to be obtained for either case to be functional. The new Phanteks case fans are quite good while the Fractal Dynamic X2 GP have quite low pressure rating.
Problem is we cannot buy additional case fans like the ones incluced in Phanteks cases. Crazy, but true
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> And people on Reddit are to be trusted. Lol - I have zero complaints on my Pro M SE


Yeah, Reddit is very hit and miss. If someone knows what they are talking about its okay place to check things out. If they don't already know they can be easily lead astray.


----------



## pez

Indeed. Thankfully I have a couple F120MPs lying around that I'm going to put to use very soon over the stock fans. I already dislike the tonality of them compared to the Phanteks ones







.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pez*
> 
> Indeed. Thankfully I have a couple F120MPs lying around that I'm going to put to use very soon over the stock fans. I already dislike the tonality of them compared to the Phanteks ones
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


MP's are good fans.
Curious: is the Meshify front mounting restrictive for 140mm fans? I know many cases, including Phanteks with 120mm and 140mm mounts put lots of metal in airflow path of 140mm fans.


----------



## pez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> MP's are good fans.
> Curious: is the Meshify front mounting restrictive for 140mm fans? I know many cases, including Phanteks with 120mm and 140mm mounts put lots of metal in airflow path of 140mm fans.


Ya know, when I pulled off the front panel to mount my fans I was looking at that and thought exactly that. I remembered that conversation in the thread happening a while back (about the Pro M I think?). It definitely looks like the sides render the 140s slightly useless, but I don't have the means to really test it. I have some spare 140MPs, but I have a CLC mounted up front (I know, boo! hiss!) that only accepts 120s.

You can kinda see how it would be in this pic...definitely will restrict some, but I don't think it's enough to cause a bad turbulence or render 140mm fans necessarily useless in this case.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pez*
> 
> Ya know, when I pulled off the front panel to mount my fans I was looking at that and thought exactly that. I remembered that conversation in the thread happening a while back (about the Pro M I think?). It definitely looks like the sides render the 140s slightly useless, but I don't have the means to really test it. I have some spare 140MPs, but I have a CLC mounted up front (I know, boo! hiss!) that only accepts 120s.
> 
> You can kinda see how it would be in this pic...definitely will restrict some, but I don't think it's enough to cause a bad turbulence or render 140mm fans necessarily useless in this case.


Is that 120mm fan? If so it's about same as P400

With 120/140mm mounts having 120mm fan mounting slots full length with no cut-out area for 140mm fan flow diameter.

You can see what I mean in this front view of P400


My guess is 140mm fans work better but only becuase they give 280mm length vs 240mm length with 120mm fans .. so extra 40mm of fan area with 140mm fans.


----------



## pez

Yep, that's a 120mm fan. I'm seeing good temps throughout my build so far though. I've swapped over to a R7 1700 and still have the Titan X Pascal under a hybrid kit. Currently hitting 60C max on the CPU in stress testing and 50C under gaming. The GPU is hitting 56C max....so overall I'm very pleased. TBH, if I had caught one of those great deals on the Pro M SE recently, it would have been an even tougher decision to make.


----------



## doyll

Phanteks just announced the release of Enthoo Pro Tempered Glass and Enthoo Pro Tempered Glass Special Edition with white interior
Differences between cases seems to be Tempered Glass version has 2x 140mm black/black front fans and 1x 140mm black/black back fan while Tempered Glass Special Edition white interiro with 2x 120mm black/white fans with Halos in front and 1x 140mm black/white fan in back.


----------



## nycgtr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Phanteks just announced the release of Enthoo Pro Tempered Glass and Enthoo Pro Tempered Glass Special Edition with white interior
> Differences between cases seems to be Tempered Glass version has 2x 140mm black/black front fans and 1x 140mm black/black back fan while Tempered Glass Special Edition white interiro with 2x 120mm black/white fans with Halos in front and 1x 140mm black/white fan in back.


Still waiting on that primo glass lol.


----------



## PureBlackFire

at this point please just make a complete line of replacements for the Primo, Luxe, Pro and Evolv ATX Phanteks.


----------



## progfusion28

Have you ever seen a P400 with 3 GPUs in it?



Well, now you have!









P.S: the weird mounting of the gigabyte 1070 shaved off 15c of the palit 1070, 5-6c off of the 1030 (which is mounted in the bottom, in case it doesn't show in the photo), 2-3c off of the CPU and lastly 3-4c off of the gigabyte. Apart from the temperatures, the noise that they were making while mining 24/7 when they were sandwiched together was unbearable.. now they are whisper quiet with fans spinning only up to 60%


----------



## doyll

Phanteks just announced a couple of really nice looking reservoirs


----------



## flameas

I have some issues with my Luxe TG. How do sync the RGB with MB? Only connector that comes out of the strip is a weird phanteks one. Also have problem with my PWM hub. If I use with 12V sata all fans will blast at 100%, if not then they will not work at all. Conected to CPU header


----------



## PetrasSukys

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *flameas*
> 
> I have some issues with my Luxe TG. How do sync the RGB with MB? Only connector that comes out of the strip is a weird phanteks one. Also have problem with my PWM hub. If I use with 12V sata all fans will blast at 100%, if not then they will not work at all. Conected to CPU header


Check if your motherboard supports PWM or if the header is set as PWM. Phanteks PWM hub is not PWM splitter/multiplier. It takes PWM signal from motherboard and adjust voltage supplied to the fans. It is supposed to be used like this:

Connect hub input to motherboard fan header (any that has PWM support and has PWM enabled in bios)
If you have more than three fans connected to the hub, I would recommend connecting SATA power cable, too. Otherwise might overload motherboard header.
Connect all the fans to the hub.
Power on and test
Fans connected to the hub will NOT be controlled with PWM signal per se. PWM signal comes to Phanteks hub and the hub adjusts voltage that is sourced either from fan header on the motherboard or from SATA power cable and supplied that adjusted voltage to the fans.

EDIT: added quote


----------



## flameas

Idk, connected to another fan port and worked without any problem. connected another fan to CPU - works fine.

any ideas on the RGB? Box said Gigabye fusion compatible - but how?


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PetrasSukys*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by flameas
> 
> I have some issues with my Luxe TG. How do sync the RGB with MB? Only connector that comes out of the strip is a weird phanteks one. Also have problem with my PWM hub. If I use with 12V sata all fans will blast at 100%, if not then they will not work at all. Conected to CPU header
> Check if your motherboard supports PWM or if the header is set as PWM. Phanteks PWM hub is not PWM splitter/multiplier. It takes PWM signal from motherboard and adjust voltage supplied to the fans. It is supposed to be used like thi
> 
> 
> 
> Check if your motherboard supports PWM or if the header is set as PWM. Phanteks PWM hub is not PWM splitter/multiplier. It takes PWM signal from motherboard and adjust voltage supplied to the fans. It is supposed to be used like this:s:
> 
> Connect hub input to motherboard fan header (any that has PWM support and has PWM enabled in bios)
> If you have more than three fans connected to the hub, I would recommend connecting SATA power cable, too. Otherwise might overload motherboard header.
> Connect all the fans to the hub.
> Power on and test
> Fans connected to the hub will NOT be controlled with PWM signal per se. PWM signal comes to Phanteks hub and the hub adjusts voltage that is sourced either from fan header on the motherboard or from SATA power cable and supplied that adjusted voltage to the fans.
> 
> EDIT: added quote
Click to expand...

As PetraSukys said, Phanteks PWM hub is not a PWM hub, but a PWM controlled variable voltage hub. For it to work it has to be connected to a real PWM header on motherboard, and not all 4-pin fan headers are PWM.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *flameas*
> 
> Idk, connected to another fan port and worked without any problem. connected another fan to CPU - works fine.
> 
> any ideas on the RGB? Box said Gigabye fusion compatible - but how?


Your fan headers are probably variable voltage .. and PWM fans run just fine on variable voltage headers .. but variable voltage fans run full speed on variable voltage headers .. or on Phanteks fan hub plugged into PSU and variable voltage fan header.


----------



## flameas

Thanks for the help.

Any ideas on the RGB?


----------



## nycgtr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *flameas*
> 
> Thanks for the help.
> 
> Any ideas on the RGB?


You need an adapter.

http://www.phanteks.com/PH-CB_RGB4P.html


----------



## OutlawII

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PureBlackFire*
> 
> at this point please just make a complete line of replacements for the Primo, Luxe, Pro and Evolv ATX Phanteks.


It seems this is what they are doing lol But seriously some legit cases these guys are making


----------



## Mooncheese

I ended up going with Thermaltake's View 71, it didn't look like I could fit the PE 360 in the front push-pull and still have space for the pump-res between that and the GPU and fitting a slim 420 in the ceiling wasn't going to happen, I even called Phanteks and they went over to an Enthoo Pro M (Tempered) and took measurements.

Everything fits nicely in the TT View 71, and I'm seeing no greater than 39C on the GPU, and 45-55C on the 8700k with the slim 420 and 360, very happy with this build:


----------



## Mooncheese

Sorry for the confusion, for whatever reason only 8 min of my previous video uploaded to youtube, for anyone interested here it is:


----------



## peoplednb

Hi all!
Thats my Evolv mATX build.
i7-8700+Celsius S24
Asus Strix z370-G
Gigabyte Aorus GTX1080 11gbps
Corsair Vengeance RGB 4*8gb
Plextor m5s 128gb + 2*500gb Samsung 850Evo
Corsair RM650
Phanteks Evolv mATX + NZXT HUE+


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## flameas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nycgtr*
> 
> You need an adapter.
> 
> http://www.phanteks.com/PH-CB_RGB4P.html


I guess that makes sence, thanks. Bit weird though - Phanteks promotes Gigabyte RGB Fusion on the box, but could not include a 5 euro adapter on a 170 euro case..


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *flameas*
> 
> Idk, connected to another fan port and worked without any problem. connected another fan to CPU - works fine.
> 
> any ideas on the RGB? Box said Gigabye fusion compatible - but how?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *flameas*
> 
> I guess that makes sence, thanks. Bit weird though - Phanteks promotes Gigabyte RGB Fusion on the box, but could not include a 5 euro adapter on a 170 euro case..


More like 1 euro or less for adapter.


----------



## flameas

Cost me 20 euros with shipping, since no seller in Estonia had it and hat to order from UK Amazon..


----------



## furywins

I liked the layout of the PRO M but the finishing on mine was pretty bad.


----------



## konga056

Added a little LCD screen in the SSD window to show temps. I used the SSD tray as a mount. What do you guys think?


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *konga056*
> 
> Added a little LCD screen in the SSD window to show temps. I used the SSD tray as a mount. What do you guys think?


Very nice!


----------



## nycgtr

Looks clean.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *konga056*
> 
> Added a little LCD screen in the SSD window to show temps. I used the SSD tray as a mount. What do you guys think?


----------



## patryk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *peoplednb*
> 
> Hi all!
> Thats my Evolv mATX build.
> i7-8700+Celsius S24
> Asus Strix z370-G
> Gigabyte Aorus GTX1080 11gbps
> Corsair Vengeance RGB 4*8gb
> Plextor m5s 128gb + 2*500gb Samsung 850Evo
> Corsair RM650
> Phanteks Evolv mATX + NZXT HUE+
> 
> what temperature your processor gets
> with such OC in occt?


----------



## patryk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mooncheese*
> 
> Sorry for the confusion, for whatever reason only 8 min of my previous video uploaded to youtube, for anyone interested here it is:


what temperature your processor gets
with such OC in occt?


----------



## peoplednb

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *patryk*
> 
> what temperature your processor gets
> with such OC in occt?


CPU has stock parametres, without OC. 4.5ghz on all cores on 1.225v.
Im using Aida64 stress-test ( with 3 parameters : stress CPU, Stress FPU and Stress Cache) with HWinfo monitoring. It takes about 59-61C after 25min of testing.
In games (Ghost Recon, AC origins, Wolfenstein) it takes about 52-54C after 3 hours of unstoppable gaming).

If remove radiator from front to top of case, it add 5C to CPU, but GPU will be 10C lower).
Pump set in "auto" mode, and work on 2000rpm with 500rpm fans (if AIDA dont lie with z370 chipset)


----------



## patryk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *peoplednb*
> 
> CPU has stock parametres, without OC. 4.5ghz on all cores on 1.225v.
> Im using Aida64 stress-test ( with 3 parameters : stress CPU, Stress FPU and Stress Cache) with HWinfo monitoring. It takes about 59-61C after 25min of testing.
> In games (Ghost Recon, AC origins, Wolfenstein) it takes about 52-54C after 3 hours of unstoppable gaming).
> 
> If remove radiator from front to top of case, it add 5C to CPU, but GPU will be 10C lower).
> Pump set in "auto" mode, and work on 2000rpm with 500rpm fans (if AIDA dont lie with z370 chipset)


Me i7 5820k @ 4.5ghz / vcore 1.284v has in AC origins max 74c PKG and GPU max 43c


----------



## patryk

And i have a problem with me AC origins (LG 27UD68-W)
in 4k resolution, the image is scaled over the entire monitor
and in full hd it looks like this



similarly, the picture is a bit larger in 2.5k than in full hd

I tried everything and nothing helped
games such as WITCHER 3, Crysis 3, Far Cry primal work correctly
any suggestions ?


----------



## Sedici

My first Phanteks case. The Black/Dark Grey color options weren't for me, so I decided to give it a classic brushed aluminum finish.


----------



## paskowitz

Oooooo... that looks nice. Wish it was a factory option.


----------



## Aby67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sedici*
> 
> My first Phanteks case. The Black/Dark Grey color options weren't for me, so I decided to give it a classic brushed aluminum finish.


very nice job on the bevels,it must be a beauty to touch ...million times better than factory....do u mill your own stuff as well?


----------



## Sedici

Thanks.

The panels are just the factory panels that I redid in brushed finish. Neither panel is newly machined, although I have ordered a few custom pieces for it. Just waiting on them to be completed.


----------



## overheatisbad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sedici*
> 
> My first Phanteks case. The Black/Dark Grey color options weren't for me, so I decided to give it a classic brushed aluminum finish.


That was cool case


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sedici*
> 
> My first Phanteks case. The Black/Dark Grey color options weren't for me, so I decided to give it a classic brushed aluminum finish.


very nicely done!


----------



## KaffieneKing

Guys please use quotes spoilers when quoting images, thanks


----------



## SOCOM_HERO

Completed hardline build in the Enthoo Pro M SE. Added more Halo rings and had to drill out the mounting points for the pump combo. Other than that, it was a very good case to work in.


----------



## patryk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SOCOM_HERO*
> 
> Completed hardline build in the Enthoo Pro M SE. Added more Halo rings and had to drill out the mounting points for the pump combo. Other than that, it was a very good case to work in.


oh







GPU no have water block


----------



## SOCOM_HERO

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *patryk*
> 
> oh
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> GPU no have water block


Gets replaced the most often, so I'd rather not have to drain and refill the whole thing. Not to mention that my OC on the GPU probably wouldn't go much higher on water.


----------



## patryk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SOCOM_HERO*
> 
> Gets replaced the most often, so I'd rather not have to drain and refill the whole thing. Not to mention that my OC on the GPU probably wouldn't go much higher on water.


oc is around ~100mhz on water gpu block

only this is not important, the graphics card temperature falls more than doubled
what is better OC and the life of the graphics card

Me msi gtx 1070 gaming x @ 2100/4650 and after a small reduction in detail, I can play in 4k resolutions (AC orignis 35-60 fps average 47fps)


----------



## DarthBaggins

Started test fitting my rad and fans, still debating the CE280 or PE240,


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Started test fitting my rad and fans, still debating the CE280 or PE240,
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Nornally, I would do the 280 every time since more surface area will allow you to run the fans a bit lower with the same cooling capabilities. But, the CE's extra width negates that at least somewhat. Tough choice, but I would still go with the CE280.


----------



## bajer29

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Started test fitting my rad and fans, still debating the CE280 or PE240,


Those rads make the inside of the Pro M look tiny compared to my air-cooled setup...


----------



## Mr-Dark

Hello all

I'm proud owner of Phanteks Enthoo luxe tempered glass.. its first time with Phanteks always corsair... this thing is amazing! the quality and the airflow is top level..











2



also this super silent build.. all fans stay off until the gpu reach 50c.. after that 500rpm on all which more than enough on this case


----------



## bajer29

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr-Dark*
> 
> Hello all
> 
> I'm proud owner of Phanteks Enthoo luxe tempered glass.. its first time with Phanteks always corsair... this thing is amazing! the quality and the airflow is top level..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 2
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> also this super silent build.. all fans stay off until the gpu reach 50c.. after that 500rpm on all which more than enough on this case


Curious, how are you controlling your fans?


----------



## Mr-Dark

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bajer29*
> 
> Curious, how are you controlling your fans?


Hello

I'm using the corsair commander pro fan controller


----------



## bajer29

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr-Dark*
> 
> Hello
> 
> I'm using the corsair commander pro fan controller


Cool, thanks.


----------



## Nikos86

Hi Phanteks lovers and owners,

I know a few people have asked about 420 radiators in the top of a luxe, but i cannot see a clear answer for which 420's will fit and which will not.

I have read that some people cannot get EK radiators to fit, but (some?) alphacools can.

According to EK site, both of their 420 radiators (SE and CE) are 460mm long.

According to Alphacool site, the XT45 is 467mm but the ST30 (non-cross) is 457mm.

According to Phanteks, up to 420 rads are supported, but when I emailed them, they advised me to check with this thread.

Specifically I have:

- Enthoo Luxe Tempered Glass
- Asus Rampage V Edition 10 x99 Motherboard
- I would like to keep the front panel USB and buttons where they are; that is, stock-standard
- I would like to keep my drive cage set-up as it is; that is, bottom cage installed and top removed
- measuring seems to give me a 62-68mm clearance from the motherboard
- I plan to use just a pull fan configuration, with the fans sitting in the top section which is designed for them

At this stage based on various forums.

- People are struggling to get EK rads to fit
- Based on that, I can only assume that the 7mm longer XT45 will not fit
- And I am only really hearing success for the ST30

Can people please confirm what options they think will work?

Thanks in advance.

@theoblivinator @TheAbyss @demps709 @LegoFarmer


----------



## demps709

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nikos86*
> 
> Hi Phanteks lovers and owners,
> 
> I know a few people have asked about 420 radiators in the top of a luxe, but i cannot see a clear answer for which 420's will fit and which will not.
> 
> I have read that some people cannot get EK radiators to fit, but (some?) alphacools can.
> 
> According to EK site, both of their 420 radiators (SE and CE) are 460mm long.
> 
> According to Alphacool site, the XT45 is 467mm but the ST30 (non-cross) is 457mm.
> 
> According to Phanteks, up to 420 rads are supported, but when I emailed them, they advised me to check with this thread.
> 
> Specifically I have:
> 
> - Enthoo Luxe Tempered Glass
> - Asus Rampage V Edition 10 x99 Motherboard
> - I would like to keep the front panel USB and buttons where they are; that is, stock-standard
> - I would like to keep my drive cage set-up as it is; that is, bottom cage installed and top removed
> - measuring seems to give me a 62-68mm clearance from the motherboard
> - I plan to use just a pull fan configuration, with the fans sitting in the top section which is designed for them
> 
> At this stage based on various forums.
> 
> - People are struggling to get EK rads to fit
> - Based on that, I can only assume that the 7mm longer XT45 will not fit
> - And I am only really hearing success for the ST30
> 
> Can people please confirm what options they think will work?
> 
> Thanks in advance.
> 
> @theoblivinator @TheAbyss @demps709 @LegoFarmer


Not 100% sure about the EK's but I have a Alphacool UT60 in mine. Currently running it in pull from the top. There is only a few mm of clearance above the motherboard though.


----------



## Nikos86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *demps709*
> 
> Not 100% sure about the EK's but I have a Alphacool UT60 in mine. Currently running it in pull from the top. There is only a few mm of clearance above the motherboard though.


And do you still have the USB headers and reset+LED buttons installed where they came from factory? Or did you have to move them?

I understand that I have enough height for a 60mm thick radiator; its primarily the 455mm+ length that I am worried about, and then having clearance between tubes/fittings and my fan on the back wall.


----------



## demps709

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nikos86*
> 
> And do you still have the USB headers and reset+LED buttons installed where they came from factory? Or did you have to move them?
> 
> I understand that I have enough height for a 60mm thick radiator; its primarily the 455mm+ length that I am worried about, and then having clearance between tubes/fittings and my fan on the back wall.


The case is designed for 420 rads. You don't have to mod the front IO. Only think I can see that it would interfere with might be the top 5.25 bay (the one below the front IO).


----------



## Nikos86

Thanks.


----------



## lordtartarsauce

is this the
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *judorange*
> 
> My first custom loop. I love my Pro


is this the pro or the pro m? i found a tempered glass version of the pro that seems to be available only on the phanteks official website. if you or anyone has the pro i was wondering if the drive cages same out.


----------



## bajer29

Pro. Pro M has a PSU shroud.


----------



## mAs81

Just bit the bullet on a Evolv mATX TG case..I'm going to migrate my 350D build in it,with some changes,of course..

How are the stock 140mm fans?I'm going to ditch my fan controller and connect everything on my m/b..


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mAs81*
> 
> Just bit the bullet on a Evolv mATX TG case..I'm going to migrate my 350D build in it,with some changes,of course..
> 
> How are the stock 140mm fans?I'm going to ditch my fan controller and connect everything on my m/b..


First, congrats on a *huge* upgrade.

The included F140MP fans are excellent. You will be hard pressed to find a better fan for the application at any price. Even at that, any upgrade would be slight to the point of not being perceptible. The only real reason to look at upgrading would be if you don't like the noise profile, but most find it very good.


----------



## mAs81

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> First, congrats on a *huge* upgrade.
> 
> The included F140MP fans are excellent. You will be hard pressed to find a better fan for the application at any price. Even at that, any upgrade would be slight to the point of not being perceptible. The only real reason to look at upgrading would be if you don't like the noise profile, but most find it very good.


Hey thanks








I'm thinking of putting both as intakes,and have two corsair ML120s on the H75 in the back as push pull..Should I put at least one fan on the top?


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mAs81*
> 
> Just bit the bullet on a Evolv mATX TG case..I'm going to migrate my 350D build in it,with some changes,of course..
> 
> How are the stock 140mm fans?I'm going to ditch my fan controller and connect everything on my m/b..


As ciarlatano said, congrats on the upgrade in cases, while the MP ;like case fans are good, they are not MP fans .. they are PH-F140HP housing and motor with MP impeller .. variable voltage 1200rpm. PH-F140MP are PWM 1600rpm. I know ciarlatano knows this.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mAs81*
> 
> Hey thanks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm thinking of putting both as intakes,and have two corsair ML120s on the H75 in the back as push pull..Should I put at least one fan on the top?


When air cooling I don't like top fans because either disrupt front to back airflow or draw heated air up from GPU around CPU.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mAs81*
> 
> Hey thanks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm thinking of putting both as intakes,and have two corsair ML120s on the H75 in the back as push pull..Should I put at least one fan on the top?


Fans on the top would do nothing but recirculate warm air. You will get better cooling without them.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> As ciarlatano said, congrats on the upgrade in cases, while the MP ;like case fans are good, they are not MP fans .. they are PH-F140HP housing and motor with MP impeller .. variable voltage 1200rpm. PH-F140MP are PWM 1600rpm. I know ciarlatano knows this.


Yes, and for all intents and purposes they are a 1200rpm MP. Good info, but changes nothing in what I said.


----------



## mAs81

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> As ciarlatano said, congrats on the upgrade in cases, while the MP ;like case fans are good, they are not MP fans .. they are PH-F140HP housing and motor with MP impeller .. variable voltage 1200rpm. PH-F140MP are PWM 1600rpm. I know ciarlatano knows this.


Thank you!
So you're saying that they're not good for front intakes then in my planned setup?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Fans on the top would do nothing but recirculate warm air. You will get better cooling without them.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> When air cooling I don't like top fans because either disrupt front to back airflow or draw heated air up from GPU around CPU.


Nice , thanks for your input


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mAs81*
> 
> So you're saying that they're not good for front intakes then?
> Nice , thanks for your input


He isn't saying that at all. He is simply clarifying that they are not a retail F140MP. It's a pet peeve of his.


----------



## mAs81

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> He isn't saying that at all. He is simply clarifying that they are not a retail F140MP. It's a pet peeve of his.


Oh , okay then , I misunderstood..

It's been a while since I upgraded anything in my personal rig , and I'm getting giddy , lol...

..Too bad that the case won't be available to me till after the 19th..

Thank you both for your swift responses


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Yes, and for all intents and purposes they are a 1200rpm MP. Good info, but changes nothing in what I said.


I pointed out the difference because the PWM / viariable voltage and 1200rpm /vs 1600rpm means they can't be controls by single source and fall run same speed .. and that would be runing the real MPs on variable voltage. I even edited saying you know this.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mAs81*
> 
> Thank you!
> So you're saying that they're not good for front intakes then in my planned setup?
> 
> Nice , thanks for your input


They work the same up to 1200rpm, but stock case fans are variable voltage and MPs are PWM 1600rpm.
As I posted above, you can't plug both into same control and get same speeds form both.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> He isn't saying that at all. He is simply clarifying that they are not a retail F140MP. It's a pet peeve of his.


Pet peeve is a little over the top. But yeah, what Phanteks is doing by not giving us an option to buy more of same fan to use on included hub is rather poor customer support, don't you think?

Seems common sense would be to sell these us these new case fans same as old HP, SP, XP and new MP .. maybe discontinue the old SP case fan for inventory .. I doubt many sell anymore.


----------



## mAs81

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> As I posted above, you can't plug both into same control and get same speeds form both


Wasn't planning to use them on my fan controller - my m/b has enough fan headers


----------



## n8t1308

Joining the Phanteks family







my Entho Primo will be here Tuesday. After my switch 810 I've always wanted another white case so bit the bullet. Quick question though. I'm comfortable modding so keep that in mind. I'd like to do a 480 top and bottom. But I've already got an alphacool nexxos monsta rad 420mm I'd like to keep using as well. Think I can make it fit in the front while still using the other two rads for the top and bottom?


----------



## nycgtr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *n8t1308*
> 
> Joining the Phanteks family
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> my Entho Primo will be here Tuesday. After my switch 810 I've always wanted another white case so bit the bullet. Quick question though. I'm comfortable modding so keep that in mind. I'd like to do a 480 top and bottom. But I've already got an alphacool nexxos monsta rad 420mm I'd like to keep using as well. Think I can make it fit in the front while still using the other two rads for the top and bottom?


Yes and the bottom you need to be careful of width the monsta should fit. Takes mods to do what you want. 

360 in front 480 on top and bottom.


----------



## n8t1308

Good to hear







I'll be taking the hard drive cages out, the 5.25 bays out and probably replacing that space with an acrylic white panel to hide cables. You think alphacool 420's width will fit alright if I take that all out? I can't remember if it was ek or alphacool that had issues....


----------



## nycgtr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *n8t1308*
> 
> Good to hear
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'll be taking the hard drive cages out, the 5.25 bays out and probably replacing that space with an acrylic white panel to hide cables. You think alphacool 420's width will fit alright if I take that all out? I can't remember if it was ek or alphacool that had issues....


Hmm my alphacool ut60 fit, ek pe fit, hwlabs no go at the bottom.


----------



## n8t1308

I'll go with alphacool then for the 480s since I've ready got the 420.... that's my ocd talking there lol


----------



## doyll

@mAs81

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mAs81*
> 
> Just bit the bullet on a Evolv mATX TG case..I'm going to migrate my 350D build in it,with some changes,of course..
> 
> How are the stock 140mm fans?I'm going to ditch my fan controller and connect everything on my m/b..


Here is Phanteks specs for new case fan and other fans.


Here is independent testing of new case fan, PH-F140MP and PH-F140XP The slight difference between MP and new case fan is probably causeed by margin of error in manufacturing of each fan combined with margin of error in testing .. which is why all fan specs of fan speed have the "+/-10%" .


----------



## GosuPl

Hello. I want uprgade my LC with add bottom radiator. 280/45 Alphacool or 280/60 Phobya

http://www.angela.pl/p9377,alphacool-nexxxos-xt45-full-copper-280mm.html

http://www.angela.pl/p9212,phobya-g-changer-280-v-2-full-copper.html

With 2x Corsair 140 ML PRO (They will blow the air through the radiator to the housing, downward direction)

I have a question whether these two rads will fit without the need to modify the case ?


----------



## OutlawII

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GosuPl*
> 
> Hello. I want uprgade my LC with add bottom radiator. 280/45 Alphacool or 280/60 Phobya
> 
> http://www.angela.pl/p9377,alphacool-nexxxos-xt45-full-copper-280mm.html
> 
> http://www.angela.pl/p9212,phobya-g-changer-280-v-2-full-copper.html
> 
> With 2x Corsair 140 ML PRO (They will blow the air through the radiator to the housing, downward direction)
> 
> I have a question whether these two rads will fit without the need to modify the case ?


Do you still have the primo?
If so yes it will fit i have a 360 in the top and one in the bottom


----------



## joeh4384

I just moved my rig to the ITX case with tempered glass. So far I like it. I am running an 8700k, Asus 370i, and the EVGA SC2 1080ti hybrid.


----------



## Essenbe

I had a Primo and had a 360 X 60 in top and bottom.


----------



## GosuPl

Thx for replys


----------



## DarthBaggins

One SSD down, 2 more to go


----------



## kevindd992002

I was working on my new Enthoo Evolv ATX TG as a preparation for my new build. Naturally, I unscrew both tempered glasses from the case itself first. After doing the stuff that I need to do inside, it was time to screw the glasses back. The glass cover for the back side of the case was easy to screw in but I had a hard time doing the front cover. It looks like the two top holes on the glass are not perfectly aligned to the two top standoffs on the case resulting in me trying to force them to align (which they did) but I know this is not normal. Here are some pictures that show what I'm saying:

Left top hole:



Right top hole:



The one on the right (2nd pic) seems to be more "disaligned" than the one on the left. Does anyone experience the same thing? I will be contacting Phanteks support regarding this but I'm just very disappointed at this point. This case has been with for around 6 months, opened it just now and now this.


----------



## bajer29

Did you lay the case on it's side and try aligning all the holes first then screw the thumb screws in? I've not had any issues like this on my Pro M.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bajer29*
> 
> Did you lay the case on it's side and try aligning all the holes first then screw the thumb screws in? I've not had any issues like this on my Pro M.


I did try that, yes, and it was the same result. Come to think of it though, when my system is already built and standing in my desk I won't do the extra effort of laying it on its side just to screw back the cover


----------



## bajer29

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> I did try that, yes, and it was the same result. Come to think of it though, when my system is already built and standing in my desk I won't do the extra effort of laying it on its side just to screw back the cover


Right, I wouldn't think you would. That being said, flipping the cover a couple different orientations didn't work either? I'd say Phanteks should hook you up with a new panel. Like I said, I've not heard many complaining about screws misaligning, so yours may just be a fluke.


----------



## doyll

Just a thought and not sure it's even possible but could you have maybe put front / left panel on back / right side?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> I was working on my new Enthoo Evolv ATX TG as a preparation for my new build. Naturally, I unscrew both tempered glasses from the case itself first. After doing the stuff that I need to do inside, it was time to screw the glasses back. The glass cover for the back side of the case was easy to screw in but I had a hard time doing the front cover. It looks like the two top holes on the glass are not perfectly aligned to the two top standoffs on the case resulting in me trying to force them to align (which they did) but I know this is not normal. Here are some pictures that show what I'm saying:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Left top hole:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Right top hole:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The one on the right (2nd pic) seems to be more "disaligned" than the one on the left. Does anyone experience the same thing? I will be contacting Phanteks support regarding this but I'm just very disappointed at this point. This case has been with for around 6 months, opened it just now and now this.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bajer29*
> 
> Right, I wouldn't think you would. That being said, flipping the cover a couple different orientations didn't work either? I'd say Phanteks should hook you up with a new panel. Like I said, I've not heard many complaining about screws misaligning, so yours may just be a fluke.


There's only one orientation for the cover for it to be flushed with the whole case. Yeah, I'm very unlucky with these things. One more thing is that the standoff on the lower right hand side (same side) seems to be a little "angled" so when you screw in the thumbscrew it doesn't sit flush with the glass.

EDIT: Ok, here's one thing I thought of just now. I tried putting the back cover with the same orientation as the front cover but flipped 180 degrees so that the internal side of the cover is the one exposed externally (if that even makes sense) and the holes were perfectly aligned with the standoffs. That tells me that the culprit is the front cover glass holes.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Just a thought and not sure it's even possible but could you have maybe put front / left panel on back / right side?


You beat me to it  I just edited my above post and did exactly what you said.

EDIT: FALSE ALARM! I removed the plastic protective seals to make it easier to see and it looks like I also need to exert a bit of force when I switch the covers. So basically, the holes of both cover are aligned with the standoffs in the back side of the case while both of them are misaligned with the standoffs on the front side of the case. This tells me that it's the standoffs on the front causing the issue.


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> I was working on my new Enthoo Evolv ATX TG as a preparation for my new build. Naturally, I unscrew both tempered glasses from the case itself first. After doing the stuff that I need to do inside, it was time to screw the glasses back. The glass cover for the back side of the case was easy to screw in but I had a hard time doing the front cover. It looks like the two top holes on the glass are not perfectly aligned to the two top standoffs on the case resulting in me trying to force them to align (which they did) but I know this is not normal. Here are some pictures that show what I'm saying:
> 
> Left top hole:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Right top hole:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The one on the right (2nd pic) seems to be more "disaligned" than the one on the left. Does anyone experience the same thing? I will be contacting Phanteks support regarding this but I'm just very disappointed at this point. This case has been with for around 6 months, opened it just now and now this.


My first window was damaged, contacted Phanteks and they send me a new one. Second one was also severely misaligned. I made measurements on where the holes should be and send it to them. Shortly after they send me an email that they shipped the panel.

Things like this happen and they solved it professionally. This is the second and last brand case i buy, the the case is really good quality and service is outstanding.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> My first window was damaged, contacted Phanteks and they send me a new one. Second one was also severely misaligned. I made measurements on where the holes should be and send it to them. Shortly after they send me an email that they shipped the panel.
> 
> Things like this happen and they solved it professionally. This is the second and last brand case i buy, the the case is really good quality and service is outstanding.


That's good to know. If you read my observations above though, it looks like both windows don't fit properly on the front side and do fit without any problems on the back side. So I'm afraid that if they send another window to me, it would have the same problem.

Were both of your windows misaligned too?

Which email address did you send to? I'm assuming [email protected] because you live in Netherlands. If so, what time zone are they at?


----------



## Biggu

Probably a long shot, but anyone have a Phanteks ENTHOO ELITE case they are bored of or want something else? Im thinking about getting one and wouldn't mind finding used.


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> That's good to know. If you read my observations above though, it looks like both windows don't fit properly on the front side and do fit without any problems on the back side. So I'm afraid that if they send another window to me, it would have the same problem.
> 
> Were both of your windows misaligned too?
> 
> Which email address did you send to? I'm assuming [email protected] because you live in Netherlands. If so, what time zone are they at?


Yes, i can be that its a bad batch strait from the factory or something, idk. I had 2 panels that were misaligned and i couldn't close the panel and tighten the thumb screws.

Here are some pictures:


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!









Yes i used that Email adres, the time here is 5:42 PM.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> Yes, i can be that its a bad batch strait from the factory or something, idk. I had 2 panels that were misaligned and i couldn't close the panel and tighten the thumb screws.
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Here are some pictures:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yes i used that Email adres, the time here is 5:42 PM.


Right. How soon do they reply though? I've sent an email last night (when I posted here in OCN) but I still don't have a reply until now. Do they reply from the US (PST timezone) or do they have an office that takes care of international concerns?


----------



## pez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Right. How soon do they reply though? I've sent an email last night (when I posted here in OCN) but I still don't have a reply until now. Do they reply from the US (PST timezone) or do they have an office that takes care of international concerns?


I've had them take a couple days to respond -- if you don't hear anything by Thursday or Friday, then I would just shoot them another one. As long as you have a tad bit of patience, I think you'll be extremely satisfied with their CS.


----------



## Essenbe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Right. How soon do they reply though? I've sent an email last night (when I posted here in OCN) but I still don't have a reply until now. Do they reply from the US (PST timezone) or do they have an office that takes care of international concerns?


I had an issue with damage to the front panel of a new Luxe case I bought about a month ago. I sent an email and received a response in either 1 or 2 days. Once they reply, the issue is resolved very quickly. That day in my case. I may be wrong, but I believe they were replying from California.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pez*
> 
> I've had them take a couple days to respond -- if you don't hear anything by Thursday or Friday, then I would just shoot them another one. As long as you have a tad bit of patience, I think you'll be extremely satisfied with their CS.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Essenbe*
> 
> I had an issue with damage to the front panel of a new Luxe case I bought about a month ago. I sent an email and received a response in either 1 or 2 days. Once they reply, the issue is resolved very quickly. That day in my case. I may be wrong, but I believe they were replying from California.


Thanks for the info. I'm just not sure if they reply from California for both US and International customers. When they start replying, does the process get faster?


----------



## Essenbe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Thanks for the info. I'm just not sure if they reply from California for both US and International customers. When they start replying, does the process get faster?


Yes, it got very fast for me. I received and replied to about 3 or 4 emails that day and the resolution was completed the day they responded in my case. I can't respond to how International customers are handled.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Right. How soon do they reply though? I've sent an email last night (when I posted here in OCN) but I still don't have a reply until now. Do they reply from the US (PST timezone) or do they have an office that takes care of international concerns?


Considering CES 2018 starts today and many computer people are there it may be a few days more before you hear back.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Considering CES 2018 starts today and many computer people are there it may be a few days more before you hear back.


Yeah. I guess giving them a call later won't hurt.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Yeah. I guess giving them a call later won't hurt.


Yeah, everything not CES is pretty much at a stand still until CES show ends.


----------



## asdkj1740

http://www.hwbattle.com/bbs/board.php?bo_table=news&wr_id=103391
aimming at high airflow with this tpye of front panel, following the mistake coolermaster has made.


----------



## wheatpaste1999

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *asdkj1740*
> 
> http://www.hwbattle.com/bbs/board.php?bo_table=news&wr_id=103391
> aimming at high airflow with this tpye of front panel, following the mistake coolermaster has made.


Looks like some good stuff. Would be nice if they made a high airflow option for the Eclipse 400P front panel too.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *asdkj1740*
> 
> http://www.hwbattle.com/bbs/board.php?bo_table=news&wr_id=103391
> aimming at high airflow with this tpye of front panel, following the mistake coolermaster has made.


I don't understand what you posted.
Looks like same P300 in different colors. How does this relate to Cooler Master mistake?


----------



## asdkj1740

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wheatpaste1999*
> 
> Looks like some good stuff. Would be nice if they made a high airflow option for the Eclipse 400P front panel too.


take off the front panel then it is high airflow lol.
if phankets didnt cheap out the front dust filter of p300 and p400, it can really be done.


----------



## PureBlackFire

*Phanteks P350X*





Spoiler: more pics









*C350IP/C350AP acetal*



*Revolt X 1200W/Revolt Pro 850-1000W PSU*




Spoiler: more pics


----------



## asdkj1740

another disappointment is that the top ventilation fan/radiator mounting holes are still not offset enough to further increase clearances.


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PureBlackFire*
> 
> *Phanteks P350X*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: more pics
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *C350IP/C350AP acetal*
> 
> 
> 
> *Revolt X 1200W/Revolt Pro 850-1000W PSU*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: more pics


Kinda disappointing. I was expecting something a bit more "out there" from Phanteks.


----------



## doyll

I haven't seen anything from CES 2018 that is very exciting.


----------



## asdkj1740

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> Kinda disappointing. I was expecting something a bit more "out there" from Phanteks.


i was expecting new cpu cooler....especially the new version of the super old twin tower air cpu cooler....
it seems that phanteks has forgotten air cooler after entering water cooling....


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *asdkj1740*
> 
> i was expecting new cpu cooler....especially the new version of the super old twin tower air cpu cooler....
> it seems that phanteks has forgotten air cooler after entering water cooling....


Not really the place for cooler discussion, but the PH-TC14PE's I've used were as good as any other top tier cooler. Not sure of newest ones becauase they changed from 2 piece fins to single piece fins and I haven't tests one of these new single piece finned PH-TC14PE coolers. Seems Phanteks like to make changes in production after release without bothering to tell their loyal customers about these changes .. while I don't like it, it is what it is.


----------



## PureBlackFire

imo they do need to update their entire fan and cooler product stack. and how about some AM4/TR4 support? I haven't seen _any_ coolers for TR4 at CES so far come to think of it.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PureBlackFire*
> 
> imo they do need to update their entire fan and cooler product stack. and how about some AM4/TR4 support? I haven't seen _any_ coolers for TR4 at CES so far come to think of it.


I think most all coolers now support AM4, but I agee there is definitely a lack of TR4 support, probably because TR4 has a much bigger IHS with much bigger CPU die size & footprint area on IHS making it ratherhard to easily fit under most cooler bases .. or waterblock microfin area as well.


----------



## Mooncheese

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *asdkj1740*
> 
> i was expecting new cpu cooler....especially the new version of the super old twin tower air cpu cooler....
> it seems that phanteks has forgotten air cooler after entering water cooling....


If it aint broke, don't fix it?

I had Phanteks PH-TC14PE in an earlier iteration of my first build, and I went with this cooler because it offered comparable performance to Noctua's NH-D15 but cleared the first PCI-E slot of my mobo, Asus RIVBE, whereas the latter did not (NH-D15S does which was released later).


----------



## Mooncheese

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *asdkj1740*
> 
> another disappointment is that the top ventilation fan/radiator mounting holes are still not offset enough to further increase clearances.


Dude, why go with Phanteks Enthoo Pro M or Evolv ATX when you can get a better case for less money with Thermaltake's View 71 that will accommodate TWO 420mm radiators if you desire, has glass doors on hinges, and has vastly superior airflow?

This was the case I ultimately settled on after MUCH research into the two initial contenders, BeQuiet's Dark Base Pro 900 and Phanteks Enthoo Pro M (Tempered). The former I decided against because of the suffocating design, particularly in the celing and the latter because squeezing my EK XRES 140 D5 between the GPU and the front mounted rad looked like it wasn't going to happen, that and I was turned off by the fact that I would need to purchase SSD mounting hardware at $20 apiece.

Thermaltake View 71 + EK SE 420, EK PE 360, Gigabyte Z370 Aorus Gaming 7, Monoblock, Delidded 8700k, 1080 Ti. 8700k doing 5.1 GHz w/ 1.386v Dynamic with load temps of 55-65C full system duress running Prime95 + NiceHash Miner, 40% fan speed:






I wouldn't even consider Phanteks Evolv ATX, a Pro M with a ******ed suffocating design. We need to discourage this new trend among case manufacturers. Tell them airflow is still king by voting with your wallet.

Everyone reading this with an Evolv ATX and a ceiling mounted radiator is intimately acquainted with the problem. Sure you can buy a custom top cover for $100. But why? The case doesn't even look THAT good compared to $150 cases out there, ahem, Thermaltake View 71? Pay extra for inferior design. Is this PC Master Race or PC Clown Race?


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mooncheese*
> 
> Dude, *why go with Phanteks Enthoo Pro M or Evolv ATX when you can get a better case for less money with Thermaltake's View 71* that will accommodate TWO 420mm radiators if you desire, has glass doors on hinges, and has vastly superior airflow?


Thanks, I needed a good laugh today. I actually spit coffee all over my keyboard when I read that, though.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mooncheese*
> 
> If it aint broke, don't fix it?
> 
> I had Phanteks PH-TC14PE in an earlier iteration of my first build, and I went with this cooler because it offered comparable performance to Noctua's NH-D15 but cleared the first PCI-E slot of my mobo, Asus RIVBE, whereas the latter did not (NH-D15S does which was released later).


Indeed!.








Although the PH-TC14PE fans have been upgraded at least 3 times now. First PH-F140HP were not PWM, then became PWM, then changed to PH-F140HP_II with MP like impeller.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mooncheese*
> 
> Dude, why go with Phanteks Enthoo Pro M or Evolv ATX when you can get a better case for less money with Thermaltake's View 71 that will accommodate TWO 420mm radiators if you desire, has glass doors on hinges, and has vastly superior airflow?
> 
> This was the case I ultimately settled on after MUCH research into the two initial contenders, BeQuiet's Dark Base Pro 900 and Phanteks Enthoo Pro M (Tempered). The former I decided against because of the suffocating design, particularly in the celing and the latter because squeezing my EK XRES 140 D5 between the GPU and the front mounted rad looked like it wasn't going to happen, that and I was turned off by the fact that I would need to purchase SSD mounting hardware at $20 apiece.
> 
> Thermaltake View 71 + EK SE 420, EK PE 360, Gigabyte Z370 Aorus Gaming 7, Monoblock, Delidded 8700k, 1080 Ti. 8700k doing 5.1 GHz w/ 1.386v Dynamic with load temps of 55-65C full system duress running Prime95 + NiceHash Miner, 40% fan speed:


I'm sorry Dude, but I'm afraid you really do not know as much as you think. We have several (maybe many) members here who had Tt cases before buying Phanteks cases and all have said Phanteks are much better quality .. I know my old Tt was garbage compared to my Enthoo Primo, Luxe, Pro, Evolv ATX, Evolv mATX, and even entry level Eclipse 400 is better.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Thanks, I needed a good laugh today. I actually spit coffee all over my keyboard when I read that, though.


Yeah, glad I didn't have coffee in my had .. or my first pint of the evening.


----------



## hurricane28

Yeah, no Tt case is better than Phanteks case man... They are also better than the crappy cases from Corsair.. Mostly its the material that is far superior compared to Tt and Corsair. I had 2 Corsair cases although they looked nice the build quality is rather poor to say the least.. Now i went with Phanteks and i never buy from another brand again. This Enthoo Luxe tempered glass is simply amazing.


----------



## PureBlackFire

it's an odd comparison as the View 71 is:


very, very new, like years newer on the market than the Evolv ATX and Pro M (which is alot cheaper btw)
very large and heavy full tower


----------



## asdkj1740

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mooncheese*
> 
> If it aint broke, don't fix it?
> 
> I had Phanteks PH-TC14PE in an earlier iteration of my first build, and I went with this cooler because it offered comparable performance to Noctua's NH-D15 but cleared the first PCI-E slot of my mobo, Asus RIVBE, whereas the latter did not (NH-D15S does which was released later).


still some improvements can be made there.....
the width of these two heatsinks are 140mm.
the pcie clearance is not 100%, it really depends on the motherboard cpu socket location...
some motherboards set the cpu socket too near the pcie, not to mention the ram clearance problem and the stupid trend of having higher and higher ram heatsink.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PureBlackFire*
> 
> it's an odd comparison as the View 71 is:
> 
> very, very new, like years newer on the market than the Evolv ATX and Pro M (which is alot cheaper btw)
> very large and heavy full tower


it's heavy because it's a glass box with gaps on all sides for vents .. hardly what I would call efficient airflow design.
Me smell a troll me thinks


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *asdkj1740*
> 
> still some improvements can be made there.....
> the width of these two heatsinks are 140mm.
> the pcie clearance is not 100%, it really depends on the motherboard cpu socket location...
> some motherboards set the cpu socket too near the pcie, not to mention the ram clearance problem and the stupid trend of having higher and higher ram heatsink.


I'm not a fan of 'one size fits all none' and it's applicable with coolers too.
Tall RAM .. things .. I say things because they do not cool the RAM. Modern RAM generates very little heat, even when overclocked. Some of it is so tall I would not be at all surprised if it is too tall to fit in some cases.


----------



## Mooncheese

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Indeed!.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Although the PH-TC14PE fans have been upgraded at least 3 times now. First PH-F140HP were not PWM, then became PWM, then changed to PH-F140HP_II with MP like impeller.
> I'm sorry Dude, but I'm afraid you really do not know as much as you think. We have several (maybe many) members here who had Tt cases before buying Phanteks cases and all have said Phanteks are much better quality .. I know my old Tt was garbage compared to my Enthoo Primo, Luxe, Pro, Evolv ATX, Evolv mATX, and even entry level Eclipse 400 is better.
> Yeah, glad I didn't have coffee in my had .. or my first pint of the evening.


Some drivel about "quality".

No issues here with quality buddy.

Keep telling yourself that you paid more for an inferior case because of quality.

Also, let's compare temps. I already made a video, go ahead, I'll wait here.

Talked a lot of smack about how a SE 420 was a rubbish radiator, well put your money where your mouth is.


----------



## asdkj1740

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> I'm not a fan of 'one size fits all none' and it's applicable with coolers too.
> Tall RAM .. things .. I say things because they do not cool the RAM. Modern RAM generates very little heat, even when overclocked. Some of it is so tall I would not be at all surprised if it is too tall to fit in some cases.


asymmetric design helps a lot, because the cooler's width is just 140mm.
and i dont want to do trial and error by myself or wait for feedback from others who have the same motherboard with the same cooler.
sad thing is that once you take off the ram heatsink your warranty would be voided.

and gpu backplate has its own thickness plus the standoff between the backplate and the pcb of gpu...all of them matter.


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mooncheese*
> 
> Some drivel about "quality".
> 
> No issues here with quality buddy.
> 
> Keep telling yourself that you paid more for an inferior case because of quality.
> 
> Also, let's compare temps. I already made a video, go ahead, I'll wait here.
> 
> Talked a lot of smack about how a SE 420 was a rubbish radiator, well put your money where your mouth is.


Where's the video?


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mooncheese*
> 
> Some drivel about "quality".
> 
> No issues here with quality buddy.
> 
> Keep telling yourself that you paid more for an inferior case because of quality.
> 
> Also, let's compare temps. I already made a video, go ahead, I'll wait here.
> 
> Talked a lot of smack about how a SE 420 was a rubbish radiator, well put your money where your mouth is.


Oh, maybe he didn't realize you made a _video_. That changes everything. Once you make a video of a case, the quality of materials and design magically goes up. Do you have RGB? You definitely get double quality upgrade for RGB, especially of the lighting is on in the video.

So.....if you are happy with your wondrous Tt case, why are you trolling a Phanteks thread?

And I can't believe @doyll would have talked smack about an EK SE series rad. It's not like they are perpetually the worst performing rads in tests, right? Oh.....wait......









So, how about you go over to some Tt owners thread and talk about your case there, where it is on topic, and leave the noise out of this thread.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mooncheese*
> 
> Some drivel about "quality".
> 
> No issues here with quality buddy.
> 
> Keep telling yourself that you paid more for an inferior case because of quality.
> 
> Also, let's compare temps. I already made a video, go ahead, I'll wait here.
> 
> Talked a lot of smack about how a SE 420 was a rubbish radiator, well put your money where your mouth is.


Wow!
Where to start.
Glad you are happy with the quality.
What @hurricane28 said.
Compare temps of what? Go ahead, I'll wait here too.
What SE 420?
What @ciarlatano said.
I never said a thing about any radiator to you.
but as you brought it up I dont' think SE series are anything I would brag about.
Seems you are somewhat confused here.









And I don't want to even thing about what you are if not simply confused.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *asdkj1740*
> 
> asymmetric design helps a lot, because the cooler's width is just 140mm.
> and i dont want to do trial and error by myself or wait for feedback from others who have the same motherboard with the same cooler.
> sad thing is that once you take off the ram heatsink your warranty would be voided.
> 
> and gpu backplate has its own thickness plus the standoff between the backplate and the pcb of gpu...all of them matter.


Then are you campaigning for all components and cases to be the same?
Becuase the only way all components will fit on all motherboards and in all cases is if they are all the same. No differnet size cases, no different speed CPUs, not higher performing GPUs, etc.

If we were to address the problem of conformity, one of the first things needing to be addressed is CPU socket placement, then RAM socket placement .. because there is not standard for the placement of either of these . and that's only the start.


----------



## Sedici

Some new pieces for the Evolv Shift. The other pieces are mostly interior plates, and I had no time to formally mount any pieces yet, but I got the side panel balanced on for the photo.







Quite a few marks and fingerprints that I can't be bothered to clean at the moment.










The vents are there for custom ducting I'm making for the bottom chamber.










The inconspicuous lightning "S" for _Shift_ in the triangle design.


----------



## pez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *asdkj1740*
> 
> i was expecting new cpu cooler....especially the new version of the super old twin tower air cpu cooler....
> it seems that phanteks has forgotten air cooler after entering water cooling....


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Not really the place for cooler discussion, but the PH-TC14PE's I've used were as good as any other top tier cooler. Not sure of newest ones becauase they changed from 2 piece fins to single piece fins and I haven't tests one of these new single piece finned PH-TC14PE coolers. Seems Phanteks like to make changes in production after release without bothering to tell their loyal customers about these changes .. while I don't like it, it is what it is.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PureBlackFire*
> 
> imo they do need to update their entire fan and cooler product stack. and how about some AM4/TR4 support? I haven't seen _any_ coolers for TR4 at CES so far come to think of it.


This so much. AM4 support bracket refresh would be nice. I found it extremely irritating that I needed to send Phanteks a copy of my motherboard invoice and cooler invoice to get a AM4 bracket. Granted it's free...but still.

Maybe I should do that in case I want to go back to air cooling with that cooler.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mooncheese*
> 
> Some drivel about "quality".
> 
> No issues here with quality buddy.
> 
> Keep telling yourself that you paid more for an inferior case because of quality.
> 
> Also, let's compare temps. I already made a video, go ahead, I'll wait here.
> 
> Talked a lot of smack about how a SE 420 was a rubbish radiator, well put your money where your mouth is.


So making a case primarily glass and not improving anything else makes it quality now? I've handled 3 Tt cases of varying price categories in my life and I'd sooner buy a Corsair case again.

Also, please realize you came into a Phanteks thread for 'lovers & owners' and started this argument with arguably two of the most numbers oriented people on this forum (and I'm sure others).


----------



## bajer29

Wait... I'm still stuck on Mooncheese claiming the Pro M is costs more than the Thermaltake View 71 and how a solid pain of glass with side venting is good design for a front intake vs Pro M's mesh front panel.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bajer29*
> 
> Wait... I'm still stuck on Mooncheese claiming the Pro M is costs more than the Thermaltake View 71 and how a solid pain of glass with side venting is good design for a front intake vs Pro M's mesh front panel.


I think there are RGB fans involved, and I've heard rumors they work better in glass paneled cases than normal mesh venting.








Something to do with light passing unobstructed versus being bent around metal in grill mesh somehow improve airflow or cooling .. or something like that.







Whatever it is, it's above my metal capabilities.


----------



## asdkj1740

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Then are you campaigning for all components and cases to be the same?
> Becuase the only way all components will fit on all motherboards and in all cases is if they are all the same. No differnet size cases, no different speed CPUs, not higher performing GPUs, etc.
> 
> If we were to address the problem of conformity, one of the first things needing to be addressed is CPU socket placement, then RAM socket placement .. because there is not standard for the placement of either of these . and that's only the start.


you are too exaggerated. it is all about compatibility, it is the weakest point twin tower air cooler should be improved.
asymmetric design is nothing new nowadays...a desgin that phanteks has been lagging.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *asdkj1740*
> 
> you are too exaggerated. it is all about compatibility, it is the weakest point twin tower air cooler should be improved.
> asymmetric design is nothing new nowadays...a desgin that phanteks has been lagging.


Most if not all asymmetric coolers are offset for better GPU clearance are >140mm wide, and their offset is keeps them at 67-70mm center CPU toward PCIe. PH-TC14PE is 140mm wide with fins high enough to clear 50mm RAM.

There are some rearward offset coolers too, like R1 and Macho series .. even HE01 is set back a little, but most twin-tower coolers are not.

Maybe it would be nice to have more of a selection of iar coolers from Phanteks, but I don't think they are very interested, instead putting their efforts toward water cooling. They seem to be spreading themselves pretty thing, as shown by not even keeping their websites up to date with changes and improvements made in products. If anything needs addressing it's having website up to date with products already available, not developing more products.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Finally getting Project Gray Scale together


----------



## Meoh

Hey fellas, I've went through hell trying to remember the email\password for OC.net - all just to ask you this









1) I've initially planned to have a "hybrid" water-cooled build in my Enthoo Evolv ATX - a custom loop for a GPU and an AIO for the CPU. Because I own an NZXT's Kraken and absolutely love the RGB effects on the waterblock. Now the time goes on and I'm getting less and less happy when looking at my PC, coming to a conclusion that CPU should be included in the loop as well. And here's what bothers me: I'm running EK 360 rad PE series (38mm) at top and plan to re-arrange it to front. If then I'll buy 360 SE (28 mm) for the top - will it fit without the necessity to cut and drill the case?

2) The airflow is another reason why I'm sick and tired of my current layout: two AIO intake fans move less air than 3 Vardars exhaust from the top and I'm getting dust sucked inside... I'm all about silent builds and don't wanna ramp front fans up. So after I go through the upgrade, if I manage to get 2x360 rads inside, what's the ideal intake\exhaust fan layout? Would it make any sense to have all 6 fans as intake (without the rear exhaust fan even installed)?

3) What's the best spot to mount HDD? I've got a pretty old 2Tb HDD that still has a good SMART status, but can be a bit too noisy. So what I did is take the additional rubberized HDD cage (the one that is supposed to go inside the case as a shelf), mounted HDD and dumped it below the PSU shroud, where it lays above sleeved cables. Drive cages are removed, yes. Not to say that it's an issue, but sometimes it just bugs me that the HDD is simply laying there. Is there a good way to mount HDD when you have a pump with a drain valve installed in the basement and very restricted in space with all those custom sleeved cables?

I must be asking something that has been answered many times before in this thread - sorry about that, going through 2k pages is beyond me









If something, that's how my loop looks now - please don't say its a total crap because I know it is and only knowing that it's my first build keeps me from being a totally broke


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Meoh*
> 
> Hey fellas, I've went through hell trying to remember the email\password for OC.net - all just to ask you this
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 1) I've initially planned to have a "hybrid" water-cooled build in my Enthoo Evolv ATX - a custom loop for a GPU and an AIO for the CPU. Because I own an NZXT's Kraken and absolutely love the RGB effects on the waterblock. Now the time goes on and I'm getting less and less happy when looking at my PC, coming to a conclusion that CPU should be included in the loop as well. And here's what bothers me: I'm running EK 360 rad PE series (38mm) at top and plan to re-arrange it to front. If then I'll buy 360 SE (28 mm) for the top - will it fit without the necessity to cut and drill the case?
> 
> 2) The airflow is another reason why I'm sick and tired of my current layout: two AIO intake fans move less air than 3 Vardars exhaust from the top and I'm getting dust sucked inside... I'm all about silent builds and don't wanna ramp front fans up. So after I go through the upgrade, if I manage to get 2x360 rads inside, what's the ideal intake\exhaust fan layout? Would it make any sense to have all 6 fans as intake (without the rear exhaust fan even installed)?
> 
> 3) What's the best spot to mount HDD? I've got a pretty old 2Tb HDD that still has a good SMART status, but can be a bit too noisy. So what I did is take the additional rubberized HDD cage (the one that is supposed to go inside the case as a shelf), mounted HDD and dumped it below the PSU shroud, where it lays above sleeved cables. Drive cages are removed, yes. Not to say that it's an issue, but sometimes it just bugs me that the HDD is simply laying there. Is there a good way to mount HDD when you have a pump with a drain valve installed in the basement and very restricted in space with all those custom sleeved cables?
> 
> I must be asking something that has been answered many times before in this thread - sorry about that, going through 2k pages is beyond me
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If something, that's how my loop looks now - please don't say its a total crap because I know it is and only knowing that it's my first build keeps me from being a totally broke


I'm puzzled why you didn't just buy a clear top Supremacy EVO with some RGB LEDs in the first place....

Don't buy an SE. Seriously. They are horrid. Literally the worst performing rad on the market, and it is by a pretty wide margin.

You would be far better served moving your PE to the top and using a good 280mm in the front.


----------



## Meoh

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> I'm puzzled why you didn't just buy a clear top Supremacy EVO with some RGB LEDs in the first place....


how dare you comparing an acrylic top with a 3-mm diode with what NZXT came with, those magnificent loading and marquee effects...







Not to mention I wasn't even planning to build a loop when I bought Kraken. This AIO is what made me go for a custom loop hehe

As for SE... wow are they? I didn't think you can get a bad performing EK part at all... Anyone else can confirm that?


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Meoh*
> 
> how dare you comparing an acrylic top with a 3-mm diode with what NZXT came with, those magnificent loading and marquee effects...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not to mention I wasn't even planning to build a loop when I bought Kraken. This AIO is what made me go for a custom loop hehe
> 
> As for SE... wow are they? I didn't think you can get a bad performing EK part at all... Anyone else can confirm that?


Umm....uh, yeah, EK makes plenty of mediocre parts, and the flat out awful SE series rads. Good source of data here - http://www.xtremerigs.net/2015/02/11/radiator-round-2015/5/


----------



## nycgtr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Meoh*
> 
> how dare you comparing an acrylic top with a 3-mm diode with what NZXT came with, those magnificent loading and marquee effects...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not to mention I wasn't even planning to build a loop when I bought Kraken. This AIO is what made me go for a custom loop hehe
> 
> As for SE... wow are they? I *didn't think you can get a bad performing EK part at all.*.. Anyone else can confirm that?


ROFL that's nowhere as bad as their cpu and monoblocks for the x399 platform, where it runs hotter than EVERY OTHER competitor by 8-13c depending on stress load.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nycgtr*
> 
> ROFL that's nowhere as bad as their cpu and monoblocks for the x399 platform, where it runs hotter than EVERY OTHER competitor by 8-13c depending on stress load.


You're exaggerating. Somewhere in the depths of Alibaba, there must be an all aluminum block that performs as bad as the EK on TR4.









But, yeah, I don't get the blind worship EK gets from new liquid cooling users.

I also don't get that these same users are all over the Phanteks cases, but somehow completely miss that Phanteks makes some really nice liquid cooling components.


----------



## Meoh

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> But, yeah, I don't get the blind worship EK gets from new liquid cooling users.


No worship, it's just the satisfaction I had with them so far, the great advertising with most of the builders using their parts, and their great support (one of my Vardar fans had faulty PWM and was running full speed - I submitted the video to EK and they shipped the replacement without asking for the bad fan back). Besides, one of the most major factors is that unfortunately Im from russia and buying WC parts here is VERY hard. I have to order everything online, the shipping rates are high and the tax limit per person is low, so EK shipping from Slovenia is my best bet









Alright then, so I guess I'll go with 360 left on top and 280 at front - what's that gonna be in terms of airflow? One fan will intake air and blow it into the basement, the main case area will receive air only from the middle fan (cuz the radiator body will block mounting holes and make it impossible to place a 3rd, top fan) - is that correct? That promotes negative pressure if I get this right?

And would also be great if someone shares where they keep their 3.5 drives with the drive cage being taken out. If of course not everyone is rocking 3 SSDs here


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Meoh*
> 
> No worship, it's just the satisfaction I had with them so far, the great advertising with most of the builders using their parts, and their great support (one of my Vardar fans had faulty PWM and was running full speed - I submitted the video to EK and they shipped the replacement without asking for the bad fan back). Besides, one of the most major factors is that unfortunately Im from russia and buying WC parts here is VERY hard. I have to order everything online, the shipping rates are high and the tax limit per person is low, so EK shipping from Slovenia is my best bet
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Alright then, so I guess I'll go with 360 left on top and 280 at front - what's that gonna be in terms of airflow? One fan will intake air and blow it into the basement, the main case area will receive air only from the middle fan (cuz the radiator body will block mounting holes and make it impossible to place a 3rd, top fan) - is that correct? That promotes negative pressure if I get this right?
> 
> And would also be great if someone shares where they keep their 3.5 drives with the drive cage being taken out. If of course not everyone is rocking 3 SSDs here


The 140mm fans should be aligned and mounted with the rad, there should be nothing blowing solely into the basement. Two 140mm will produce a very similar airflow to three like 120mm fans, so if you run the 140mm a little hotter than the 120mm, you will have positive pressure.

As far as the HDD, I don't really know a better solution than what you are currently doing. Phanteks does make a tray for a single drive that gets mounted right in front of the PSU if that would help - http://phanteks.com/PH-HDDKT.html


----------



## nycgtr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> You're exaggerating. Somewhere in the depths of Alibaba, there must be an all aluminum block that performs as bad as the EK on TR4.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But, yeah, I don't get the blind worship EK gets from new liquid cooling users.
> 
> I also don't get that these same users are all over the Phanteks cases, but somehow completely miss that Phanteks makes some really nice liquid cooling components.


Actually there is a chinese block on alibaba from byski that costs less and outperforms it by 10-12c LOL. Yea Phanteks do make nice blocks. I have the x399 TR one and a strix 1080ti one in route, interestingly though their gpu blocks have specified in and out ports.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nycgtr*
> 
> Actually there is a chinese block on alibaba from byski that costs less and outperforms it by 10-12c LOL. Yea Phanteks do make nice blocks. I have the x399 TR one and a strix 1080ti one in route, interestingly though their gpu blocks have specified in and out ports.


Interested to hear your thoughts when you get it. I have the 1080 block, and replaced my EK with it. It is directional, as you say, but so is the EK (the manual was updated to specify this).


----------



## Meoh

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> The 140mm fans should be aligned and mounted with the rad, there should be nothing blowing solely into the basement.


wait, could you please clarify that? I'm planning to move the rad all the way down, so I could easily run soft tubing in the basement through the T-splitter and a ball valve (and a rigid tubing coming from the outlet and into the case). This means the following (sorry for the mad Paint skills







):










the dashed line is a PSU shroud
black dots are mounting holes in the front case panel
the bottom fan blows into the basement (red square)
the middle fan blows into the main case compartment (red square)
mounting position for the top fan is partly blocked by the rad body, which means no 3rd fan (red square filled with gray, the arrow points to lower mounting holes that are blocked).

So this gives you 1.5 intake versus 3 exhaust. Am I missing something?

Thanks for the advice about the HDD cage. Buying that stuff for 10 bucks and paying 50 for delivery doesn't seem reasonable but maybe I'll be able to find that somewhere in our local shops.

UPD: if you meant it's possible to move a 280 rad somewhere in between so that the bottom fan lifted above the shroud, then yeah I get what you mean. Not sure it's possible though. And I wanted 3 intakes







which means a 360 rad, which means going for SE, which means bad performance according to those charts you provided... Damn its complicated


----------



## nycgtr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Interested to hear your thoughts when you get it. I have the 1080 block, and replaced my EK with it. It is directional, as you say, but so is the EK (the manual was updated to specify this).


Didn't realize ek blocks were directional. Yeah I read the manual for the phanteks online. Kinda surprised me, makes me run things a bit different the I would of liked but it's not a big deal. The posideon block is trash so I got the phanteks one. Granted I did buy the bitspower as well lol, guess that ones going back untouched.


----------



## Meoh

I guess I found the answer, Scracy posted this image in another thread:

so seems like yeah, I could lift the rad a bit so that the lower fan blows inside the case rather than into basement. It also means a piece of soft tubing going from pump to the rad will also be visible but I guess it's the lesser evil...

I'm crossing my fingers that a 280 rad will fit as nicely as a 240 one at the image above, can't afford buying a replacement in case it doesn't.

Thanks for the help, much appreciated


----------



## owcraftsman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Meoh*
> 
> how dare you comparing an acrylic top with a 3-mm diode with what NZXT came with, those magnificent loading and marquee effects...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not to mention I wasn't even planning to build a loop when I bought Kraken. This AIO is what made me go for a custom loop hehe
> 
> As for SE... wow are they? I didn't think you can get a bad performing EK part at all... Anyone else can confirm that?
> 
> 
> 
> Umm....uh, yeah, EK makes plenty of mediocre parts, and the flat out awful SE series rads. Good source of data here - http://www.xtremerigs.net/2015/02/11/radiator-round-2015/5/
Click to expand...

Another good example would be there Threadripper block. EK is far from perfect hence the recent top brass firings.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Made more headway today, mounted my block on the Ti and started taking my measurements. .


----------



## n8t1308

I just recently received my white Phanteks Primo so now im on the hunt for a local metal shop that will bend me a full motherboard tray. I want it from top to bottom, front to back. Just a clean sheet of metal that I will paint to match the rest of the case I took out all the 5.25 bay brackets and hard drive cages so there is that huge emptiness behind it id like to fill in. Need a good spot for a mounted reservoir:thumb:


----------



## Sedici

Could do it yourself like I did on my 600T a couple years ago. Redid entire interior in aluminum, and center mounted the board for symmetry. Two 90deg bends in the main piece.










The main piece before bending.










Alternatively, if you can draw the tray in CAD, I can point you to a place that can waterjet it. They don't do bending though.


----------



## nyk20z3

Coming off a Shift n Shift X build i am looking at a Enthoo Luxe Temp Glass case. I was looking at the Fractal R6 as well but since i have Phanteks gpu/cpu water blocks i want to match everything. My question is i am interested in mounting the gpu vertical so would something like the cooler master vertical gpu bracket work in this case ?


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nyk20z3*
> 
> Coming off a Shift n Shift X build i am looking at a Enthoo Luxe Temp Glass case. I was looking at the Fractal R6 as well but since i have Phanteks gpu/cpu water blocks i want to match everything. My question is i am interested in mounting the gpu vertical so would something like the cooler master vertical gpu bracket work in this case ?


Yes, it will.


----------



## TheAbyss

Folks, I´ll be reworking my Luxe Mod early this year (as soon as it´s warm enough in Germany to work in a Garage...). I have had a Brief discussion with doyll about that.. I´ll play around with additional mods to my Luxe nonTG as well as with different Rads and fans configs (intake vs exhaust) in top, front and bottom Position. Anyone interested in that, so I´d put up some "worklog" here.

Planned mods to the case are:

open the upper drive cages
new custom psu shroud
custom acrylic Multi layer side Panel.


----------



## wheatpaste1999

I got a Enthoo Pro M SE for Christmas, and I'm planning to migrate and upgrade my current build into it.

After taking a hard look at the case and taking much of it apart, I really just don't understand the top panel and radiator tray. It's just not very useful and there's wasted space between the tray and the top of the case, but not quite enough for a fan or a radiator. It looks like some people have had success modding the tray to mount fans to, which i'll probably do as well.

Anyone in this thread done any mods to the radiator tray or top panel to make better use of the space?


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wheatpaste1999*
> 
> I got a Enthoo Pro M SE for Christmas, and I'm planning to migrate and upgrade my current build into it.
> 
> After taking a hard look at the case and taking much of it apart, I really just don't understand the top panel and radiator tray. It's just not very useful and there's wasted space between the tray and the top of the case, but not quite enough for a fan or a radiator. It looks like some people have had success modding the tray to mount fans to, which i'll probably do as well.
> 
> Anyone in this thread done any mods to the radiator tray or top panel to make better use of the space?


Congrats on the new case!

Why do you want to mod and put fans in that small space? Even if you can get it to flow air it will greatly increase fan and airflow noise.

The space between radiator tray and top is not 'wasted space' but space to allow airflow coming out of radiator to stabilize and quietly flow through grill if used as exhaust .. and if used as intake for air coming through grill to stabilize before entering radiator. Make sure you block all unused openings in the tray so the air being forced through radiator does not circle back and mix with cool airflow.


----------



## asdkj1740

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wheatpaste1999*
> 
> I got a Enthoo Pro M SE for Christmas, and I'm planning to migrate and upgrade my current build into it.
> 
> After taking a hard look at the case and taking much of it apart, I really just don't understand the top panel and radiator tray. It's just not very useful and there's wasted space between the tray and the top of the case, but not quite enough for a fan or a radiator. It looks like some people have had success modding the tray to mount fans to, which i'll probably do as well.
> 
> Anyone in this thread done any mods to the radiator tray or top panel to make better use of the space?


no worries, you are right, it is stupid.
you cant mount standard 25mm fan on the gap, but i think thiner fans can be mounted.

enthoo pro m is a airflow (and cheap) version of evolv atx. evolv atx has got the same removable mounting bracket, namely the original design of this is for evolv atx.
because the evolv atx top panel ventilation are on the side, therefore the removable mounting bracket is designed to be installed lower from the top panel for better cooling.
phanteks did not change the removable mounting bracket design on enthoo pro m, a case that have mesh top panel meaning the gap is meaningless and 100% waste.

however, the removable mounting bracket has offset mounting holes, may have better clearance, depends on your setup.
i used to mount 140mm aio directly on the top panel and take away the stupid top removable mounting bracket. there are holes fits the 140mm fan/radiator. you can try finding proper holes to screw down.


----------



## ExcellentAmp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Interested to hear your thoughts when you get it. I have the 1080 block, and replaced my EK with it. It is directional, as you say, but so is the EK (the manual was updated to specify this).


I hadn't seen that the EK block was directional. I went to their website and it says: "EK-FC1080 GTX TF6 water block features a central inlet split-flow cooling engine design for best possible cooling performance, which also works flawlessly with reversed water flow without adversely affecting the cooling performance." I used the quote for this block because it's the one I own. I can't say without testing whether there's a discernible difference in temps especially considering I have a rigid tubing setup which would involve re-bending two runs.

I wholeheartedly agree that the Phanteks blocks are much more aesthetically pleasing than the EK ones and have considered swapping as well.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ExcellentAmp*
> 
> I hadn't seen that the EK block was directional. I went to their website and it says: "EK-FC1080 GTX TF6 water block features a central inlet split-flow cooling engine design for best possible cooling performance, which also works flawlessly with reversed water flow without adversely affecting the cooling performance." I used the quote for this block because it's the one I own. I can't say without testing whether there's a discernible difference in temps especially considering I have a rigid tubing setup which would involve re-bending two runs.
> 
> I wholeheartedly agree that the Phanteks blocks are much more aesthetically pleasing than the EK ones and have considered swapping as well.


They updated many of the install manuals to include the following, but never updated the descriptions in promo materials:


----------



## OutlawII

Why would they have to update the promo materials???


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OutlawII*
> 
> Why would they have to update the promo materials???


Seems rather obvious.


----------



## OutlawII

Or just read the instructions


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OutlawII*
> 
> Or just read the instructions


It's better for them to have consistent information across the board. When you decide on buying something, which do you see first? The promo materials or instruction manual?


----------



## OutlawII

I go online look at instruction manual


----------



## doyll

The proper way for a company to give accurate product description in all literature, be it online presentation, or manual. All should be accurate. Phanteks has a bad habit of putting something on their website and not correcting or changing that discription when product changes are made. Sad, but true.


----------



## ABeta

Is there any plans in the future to release an Full tower variant or even a version with full compatibility for E-ATX of the Enthoo Evolv? I have built with only Lian Li and decided to make the jump with the Enthoo Evolv Tempered glass only to find out that the Rampage VI extreme is too wide to fit.


----------



## Pepper2016

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ABeta*
> 
> Is there any plans in the future to release an Full tower variant or even a version with full compatibility for E-ATX of the Enthoo Evolv? I have built with only Lian Li and decided to make the jump with the Enthoo Evolv Tempered glass only to find out that the Rampage VI extreme is too wide to fit.


I wouldn´t get my hopes up, the buyers market for fulltowers is pretty much non existent. As of today Phanteks got their Enthoo Luxe/Primo and Pro series witch should fit your Rampage VI Extreme motherboard.


----------



## tiefox

Hi Guys.

I finally started my build on my Enthoo Primo. Here is how it is going...







Still missing the heave mods on the front intake, will also 3d print some parts to make sure I have great airflow coming from there..

Custom made tempered glass window mod ...( color of the panel is not 100% right yet, I will repaint it at some point )


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tiefox*
> 
> Hi Guys.
> 
> I finally started my build on my Enthoo Primo. Here is how it is going...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Still missing the heave mods on the front intake, will also 3d print some parts to make sure I have great airflow coming from there..
> 
> Custom made tempered glass window mod ...( color of the panel is not 100% right yet, I will repaint it at some point )


Looking really nice, good work.

But those fans....why...just...."why?".... You go through extraordinary lengths to improve airflow, and use mediocre (I'm being nice) fans? I just don't get it.


----------



## tiefox

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Looking really nice, good work.
> 
> But those fans....why...just...."why?".... You go through extraordinary lengths to improve airflow, and use mediocre (I'm being nice) fans? I just don't get it.


They are Corsair ML140, magnetic levitation stuff and all, they are suppose to be pretty good. Not sure what you are saying.


----------



## Melcar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Looking really nice, good work.
> 
> But those fans....why...just...."why?".... You go through extraordinary lengths to improve airflow, and use mediocre (I'm being nice) fans? I just don't get it.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tiefox*
> 
> They are Corsair ML140, magnetic levitation stuff and all, they are suppose to be pretty good. Not sure what you are saying.


They are good. Comparable to Vardars according to Thermalbench, and according to users, they don't have the bad noises at low speeds that the Vardar fans have.


----------



## DarthBaggins

I'm going to be running all ML 120 & 140's in my PRO M SE. . For the price they're not bad fans at all and fit my needs, especially since I've had builds w/ all PWM based Delta 120's (talk about loud - but damn they move some air)


----------



## Melcar

Been meaning to get those fans for my Enthoo Pro as well. A couple of the two packs seem like a good deal, considering similar performing fans are in the +$20 range.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tiefox*
> 
> They are Corsair ML140, magnetic levitation stuff and all, they are suppose to be pretty good. Not sure what you are saying.


My bad, they looked like SPs. Need to stop posting from my phone.


----------



## hurricane28

I was actually thinking the same when i saw them... I actually still do.. I don't like Corsair fans. I love my Noctua's and its the last brand of fans i buy. Quality is simply unmatched.

They undervolt well, look great and perform great, the best of both worlds.


----------



## Melcar

Corsair really surprised with the MLs. Pricey, but hey, it's Corsair. The two packs are a good deal however.


----------



## hurricane28

Yeah, no.. They are overpriced IMO.. I like my Noctua's above anything else i tried thus far. I have the SP L 120mm fans and yes they move a ton of air but make a terrible sound when undervolted. I am also not a fan of those round frames, what's up with that? I mean, what's wrong with the normal square frame.. It makes a better seal on the radiator and it looks much better imo.


----------



## Melcar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> Yeah, no.. They are overpriced IMO.. I like my Noctua's above anything else i tried thus far. I have the SP L 120mm fans and yes they move a ton of air but make a terrible sound when undervolted. I am also not a fan of those round frames, what's up with that? I mean, what's wrong with the normal square frame.. It makes a better seal on the radiator and it looks much better imo.


The Pro versions are overpriced. Noticed I said the two packs are the good deal. They come out like $20 per fan, which is rather good if you consider the other fans out there with similar specs and performance. The MLs are very different from their other fans.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Melcar*
> 
> The Pro versions are overpriced. Noticed I said the two packs are the good deal. They come out like $20 per fan, which is rather good if you consider the other fans out there with similar specs and performance. *The MLs are very different from their other fans.*


No doubt they are very different.....they aren't total trash and perform respectably against top tier fans.









But, I have to agree with @hurricane28, they are a bit overpriced (as you said, it's Corsair, so anything less than twice actual worth is out of line for them) and the frames aren't particularly attractive.

But, I wouldn't argue with anyone about using them. They perform well, and the noise isn't out of line.You won't be finding any in my builds, though.


----------



## wheatpaste1999

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Congrats on the new case!
> 
> Why do you want to mod and put fans in that small space? Even if you can get it to flow air it will greatly increase fan and airflow noise.
> 
> The space between radiator tray and top is not 'wasted space' but space to allow airflow coming out of radiator to stabilize and quietly flow through grill if used as exhaust .. and if used as intake for air coming through grill to stabilize before entering radiator. Make sure you block all unused openings in the tray so the air being forced through radiator does not circle back and mix with cool airflow.


Thanks! I'm planning to mount a 280mm rad on top, so I'm looking to maximize the interior space of the case as much as possible. Ideally want to have the rad with one set of fans in push from the inside of the case. If I have to mount the fans in the top of the case so it's a pull setup, that's okay but not preferred. Not really worried about fan noise.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *asdkj1740*
> 
> no worries, you are right, it is stupid.
> you cant mount standard 25mm fan on the gap, but i think thiner fans can be mounted.
> 
> enthoo pro m is a airflow (and cheap) version of evolv atx. evolv atx has got the same removable mounting bracket, namely the original design of this is for evolv atx.
> because the evolv atx top panel ventilation are on the side, therefore the removable mounting bracket is designed to be installed lower from the top panel for better cooling.
> phanteks did not change the removable mounting bracket design on enthoo pro m, a case that have mesh top panel meaning the gap is meaningless and 100% waste.
> 
> however, the removable mounting bracket has offset mounting holes, may have better clearance, depends on your setup.
> i used to mount 140mm aio directly on the top panel and take away the stupid top removable mounting bracket. there are holes fits the 140mm fan/radiator. you can try finding proper holes to screw down.


Cool, thanks for the input and ideas. I may just end up mounting directly to the top of the case.


----------



## asdkj1740

wheatpaste1999 said:


> Quote:Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Congrats on the new case!
> 
> Why do you want to mod and put fans in that small space? Even if you can get it to flow air it will greatly increase fan and airflow noise.
> 
> The space between radiator tray and top is not 'wasted space' but space to allow airflow coming out of radiator to stabilize and quietly flow through grill if used as exhaust .. and if used as intake for air coming through grill to stabilize before entering radiator. Make sure you block all unused openings in the tray so the air being forced through radiator does not circle back and mix with cool airflow.
> 
> 
> Thanks! I'm planning to mount a 280mm rad on top, so I'm looking to maximize the interior space of the case as much as possible. Ideally want to have the rad with one set of fans in push from the inside of the case. If I have to mount the fans in the top of the case so it's a pull setup, that's okay but not preferred. Not really worried about fan noise.
> Quote:Originally Posted by *asdkj1740*
> 
> no worries, you are right, it is stupid.
> you cant mount standard 25mm fan on the gap, but i think thiner fans can be mounted.
> 
> enthoo pro m is a airflow (and cheap) version of evolv atx. evolv atx has got the same removable mounting bracket, namely the original design of this is for evolv atx.
> because the evolv atx top panel ventilation are on the side, therefore the removable mounting bracket is designed to be installed lower from the top panel for better cooling.
> phanteks did not change the removable mounting bracket design on enthoo pro m, a case that have mesh top panel meaning the gap is meaningless and 100% waste.
> 
> however, the removable mounting bracket has offset mounting holes, may have better clearance, depends on your setup.
> i used to mount 140mm aio directly on the top panel and take away the stupid top removable mounting bracket. there are holes fits the 140mm fan/radiator. you can try finding proper holes to screw down.
> 
> 
> Cool, thanks for the input and ideas. I may just end up mounting directly to the top of the case.


i would suggest you to use the bracket instead, if there are no clearance issue.
i think aio radiators installing directly on the top panel is fine, because they are very light.
but for much heavier custom water cooling radiators, you better use the bracket but not the top panel becuase rigidity and solid of the top panel are the main concerns.
just buy some noctua new a12 thinner fans for pulling setup on the gap.

however, the top panel ventilation cutout is not align with the cutout of the bracket, another proof of stupid design. if you somehow find a way to add some support for the top panel then i think mounting radiator directly on the top panel should not be a issue.

i know **** about custom water cooling, so good luck


----------



## asdkj1740

enthoo pro m is not perfect, and there are some serious cons, at least to me.
thats why i am so dissappointed about the ces2018 phanteks did not roll out a new "successor" of pro m.

the pcie slot screw holes are ruined in my case now, they are thread damage/stripped....i need a new case...


----------



## pez

asdkj1740 said:


> enthoo pro m is not perfect, and there are some serious cons, at least to me.
> thats why i am so dissappointed about the ces2018 phanteks did not roll out a new "successor" of pro m.
> 
> the pcie slot screw holes are ruined in my case now, they are thread damage/stripped....i need a new case...


If that's your issue with the case, why not contact support?


----------



## Bill Owen

labjet said:


> hello, been lurking for a couple years now
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> decided to sign up and show my love for phanteks cases.
> 
> First PC build - Phanteks Pro - z97 watercooled
> Loved the case and was a breeze to build in for a first time builder.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Second Build - Evolv ATX TG - X99 watercooled
> Constantly wanting to Mod/upgrade led to a new build
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Love the Evolv ATX TG, while air flow isnt as great it still handles temps ok. Asthetically it s amazing and the clear TG panel makes it look like there is nothing there.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also made a few mods to the case to fit fans in the top cavity and to accommodate the 250mm EK res attached to EK PE280
> 
> 
> In an attempt to improve air flow i also purchased the Evolv vented bezel from Mnpctech https://mnpctech.com/phanteks-case-mods/phanteks-primo-front-grill-en/evolv-vented-front-panel.html
> From my limited testing i saw and improvment of about 2-3c underload, the cool down from load to idle though was alot quicker.
> Looks wise not as great as stock.


just noticed the machined aluminum combs, very nice!


----------



## tice03

*Phanteks Enthoo Pro M Tempered Glass issue*

Looking for some help. I just bought the Phanteks Enthoo Pro M Tempered Glass and I think the front power button is defective somehow. I had installed everything seemingly correct, but once I hit the power button nothing happened. First I thought it might be the power supply so I switched to one I knew worked, nope same thing. Next I thought it might be a problem with the motherboard (MSI Z370 SLI Plus). Either it was somehow grounded or just plan dead on arrival so I took the motherboard out of the case and jumped the power sw pins and it booted up no problem. So next I decided to try an old case I had and I just hooked up the power sw connector cable on the motherboard and hit the power button on the old case, again booted up no problem. At this point I figured it had to be a problem with the power button on the new Phanteks case. Next I removed the drive bay so I could try and get a better look at where the connectors were tied into. In my stupidity I decided to take out all the connectors without remembering where they each went (see attached picture, not the greatest quality due to its location). The picture is looking from inside the case to the front at the top. I tried putting the power sw connector back into each possible pair of pins and testing the power button to see if it would boot, but the only time anything happened was when it was plugged into the first two pins (2 left most pins in the picture). As soon as I placed connector on the motherboard it would boot immediately and then shutdown a few seconds later, I didn't it the power button at all in this situation. Now I don't know what to do. Thinking about just packing it back up in the box and returning it to Amazon. If anyone out there has suggestions I am all ears. Thanks for listening if any other relevant info is required that I left out let me know. Thanks


----------



## patryk

Hi 
I have Phanteks Enthoo Primo 
and I wanted to know what reservoir would fit me
between the graphics card (27,7cm) and the HDD pocket


----------



## patryk

Hi 
I have Phanteks Enthoo Primo 
and I wanted to know what reservoir would fit me
between the graphics card (27,7cm) and the HDD pocket


----------



## DarthBaggins

Don't see why the one you're using now won't fit.


----------



## patryk

DarthBaggins said:


> Don't see why the one you're using now won't fit.


Hi

Is definitely too fat


----------



## DarthBaggins

A majority of your Reservoirs are going to be that diameter or larger.


----------



## ciarlatano

DarthBaggins said:


> A majority of your Reservoirs are going to be that diameter or larger.





patryk said:


> Hi
> 
> Is definitely too fat



The XSPC Photon is a bit larger circumference than most of the reservoirs out there - bigger than Heatkiller, Bitspower, Monsoon, Alphacool, EK. I had exactly the same issue when I had my Primo, I could squeeze it in, but it was touching the GPU and HDD cage. You can mount the res high and drop the GPU to a lower slot so it is under the lip if your MB has a proper slot that low, or leave it in the back which is what I wound up doing.


----------



## kevindd992002

So I had a carpenter ghetto mod the midplate of my Enthoo Evolv ATX (to fit a 280mm rad) and the PCI slots grill (to vertically mount my GPU). It turned out "ok" but there were some scratches (metal exposed) that I want to remedy. What is the best thing to do with these scratches? Attached are some pics of what I mean.


----------



## DarthBaggins

kevindd992002 said:


> So I had a carpenter ghetto mod the midplate of my Enthoo Evolv ATX (to fit a 280mm rad) and the PCI slots grill (to vertically mount my GPU). It turned out "ok" but there were some scratches (metal exposed) that I want to remedy. What is the best thing to do with these scratches? Attached are some pics of what I mean.


lightly sand and paint the sections


----------



## kevindd992002

DarthBaggins said:


> lightly sand and paint the sections


They're already sanded. Would using paint markers be the way to go?


----------



## DarthBaggins

if you can get a good even coating that blends with the rest then yeah. I normal just use spray paint, cover and tape off sections that need to be covered etc.


----------



## kevindd992002

DarthBaggins said:


> if you can get a good even coating that blends with the rest then yeah. I normal just use spray paint, cover and tape off sections that need to be covered etc.


Spray painting it was my first idea but I never used spray paints in precision jobs like this. Wouldn't you think that I need to cover a whole lot of areas if I decide to go with spray paint?


----------



## DarthBaggins

I would say what you cover would be dependent on you spray skills and the paint being used. The Paint Pen would be handy in tight spaces but if it doesn't blend well I would think you'd notice it. I mainly use Montana Spray paints (their Gold/White/ & 94 Lines) still my go to paint to use. Did pick up some cans of the Liquitex Sprays but haven't tried them yet (need to warm up my garage a bit more).


----------



## doyll

kevindd992002 said:


> So I had a carpenter ghetto mod the midplate of my Enthoo Evolv ATX (to fit a 280mm rad) and the PCI slots grill (to vertically mount my GPU). It turned out "ok" but there were some scratches (metal exposed) that I want to remedy. What is the best thing to do with these scratches? Attached are some pics of what I mean.


I would first try a black felt marker, if that doesn't work try black paint scratch repair like used to touch-up scratches in car paint and such. Be aware 'black' comes in many variations.


----------



## kevindd992002

DarthBaggins said:


> I would say what you cover would be dependent on you spray skills and the paint being used. The Paint Pen would be handy in tight spaces but if it doesn't blend well I would think you'd notice it. I mainly use Montana Spray paints (their Gold/White/ & 94 Lines) still my go to paint to use. Did pick up some cans of the Liquitex Sprays but haven't tried them yet (need to warm up my garage a bit more).


Hmmm, I'm really thinking twice with spray paints. I'm just not confident with myself with any "artistic" stuff, lol.



doyll said:


> I would first try a black felt marker, if that doesn't work try black paint scratch repair like used to touch-up scratches in car paint and such. Be aware 'black' comes in many variations.


Yeah. I guess I need to look for a "Satin Black" color as that's the official color of my case.


----------



## kevindd992002

How do you guys mount your PSU in the Enthoo Evolv ATX case? Fan side up or down? Normally, I put it fan side down so that the fan sucks cool air from the bottom of the case but the label that is seen from front side of the case shows the specs (not the name of the PSU as it's on the other side and inverted). If I put it fan side up then all labels fall into place properly but the fan is then sucking warmer air from the inside of the case and the bottom fan dust filter will be useless. Any thoughts?


----------



## doyll

kevindd992002 said:


> Hmmm, I'm really thinking twice with spray paints. I'm just not confident with myself with any "artistic" stuff, lol.
> 
> Yeah. I guess I need to look for a "Satin Black" color as that's the official color of my case.


"Satin Black' is not always the same from manufacturer to manufacturer, so even buying 'Satin Black' may not be an exact match. 




kevindd992002 said:


> How do you guys mount your PSU in the Enthoo Evolv ATX case? Fan side up or down? Normally, I put it fan side down so that the fan sucks cool air from the bottom of the case but the label that is seen from front side of the case shows the specs (not the name of the PSU as it's on the other side and inverted). If I put it fan side up then all labels fall into place properly but the fan is then sucking warmer air from the inside of the case and the bottom fan dust filter will be useless. Any thoughts?


LOL 
Turn the label over? 

Most PSUs now have labeling so with fan down the label is right side up, but not all .. obviously. What PSU do you have?


----------



## kevindd992002

doyll said:


> "Satin Black' is not always the same from manufacturer to manufacturer, so even buying 'Satin Black' may not be an exact match.
> 
> 
> 
> LOL
> Turn the label over?
> 
> Most PSUs now have labeling so with fan down the label is right side up, but not all .. obviously. What PSU do you have?


Yeah, I just tried it with a sharpie and hopefully I don't lose sleep over it 

This is my PSU:

https://m.newegg.com/products/N82E16817151120

If you check the pics there, you'll understand what I mean


----------



## jonny27

kevindd992002 said:


> Yeah, I just tried it with a sharpie and hopefully I don't lose sleep over it
> 
> This is my PSU:
> 
> https://m.newegg.com/products/N82E16817151120
> 
> If you check the pics there, you'll understand what I mean


It calls for printing your own sticker label, that's what I see


----------



## doyll

kevindd992002 said:


> Yeah, I just tried it with a sharpie and hopefully I don't lose sleep over it
> 
> This is my PSU:
> 
> https://m.newegg.com/products/N82E16817151120
> 
> If you check the pics there, you'll understand what I mean


You might be able to put a 2nd coat on if needed .. and they make blacker colored markers for touching up gun blackening/bluing. 
https://www.birchwoodcasey.com/Spec...sto+gun+black+touch-up+pen&searchmode=anyword

I think jonny27 has the solution. 

Looking at link you posted the side label is for fan down and connection labeling is for fan up .. seems loose / loose situation.


----------



## kevindd992002

doyll said:


> You might be able to put a 2nd coat on if needed .. and they make blacker colored markers for touching up gun blackening/bluing.
> https://www.birchwoodcasey.com/Spec...sto+gun+black+touch-up+pen&searchmode=anyword
> 
> I think jonny27 has the solution.
> 
> Looking at link you posted the side label is for fan down and connection tlabeling is for fan up .. seems loose / loose situation.


Thanks for the link to the pens!

Exactly, Seasonic should've known better. It's definitely a lose-lose situation. Aren't other PSU's designed this way too? It kinda looks like they're forcing you to put the fan side up or that they still think their PSU's are still mounted on top (old school)!


----------



## bajer29

kevindd992002 said:


> Thanks for the link to the pens!
> 
> Exactly, Seasonic should've known better. It's definitely a lose-lose situation. Aren't other PSU's designed this way too? It kinda looks like they're forcing you to put the fan side up or that they still think their PSU's are still mounted on top (old school)!


My AX Corsair PSU doesn't muddy up the sides with anything ugly other than the corsair logo on the side paired with the model #.


----------



## doyll

kevindd992002 said:


> Thanks for the link to the pens!
> 
> Exactly, Seasonic should've known better. It's definitely a lose-lose situation. Aren't other PSU's designed this way too? It kinda looks like they're forcing you to put the fan side up or that they still think their PSU's are still mounted on top (old school)!


No idea what they are thinking. All systems I built in last 7+ years have PSU in bottom, and top mounted PSU in old school towers usually had PSU intake / fan on bottom too, so I don't see your PSU as old school. 

If you don't want to re-label, you could use self-adhesive vinyl like sign makers use to cover side and cable connection end so labels wouldn't show.


----------



## kevindd992002

doyll said:


> No idea what they are thinking. All systems I built in last 7+ years have PSU in bottom, and top mounted PSU in old school towers usually had PSU intake / fan on bottom too, so I don't see your PSU as old school.
> 
> If you don't want to re-label, you could use self-adhesive vinyl like sign makers use to cover side and cable connection end so labels wouldn't show.


Yeah, that's probably a less priority thing to do for me as I need to finish the whole build first  I just wondered why it was designed like that, is all.


----------



## DarthBaggins

New added cables I needed showed up from ModOne PC :wheee:


----------



## Scotty99

Its probably been mentioned already, but has anyone noticed phanteks released a TG version of the pro?
https://www.newegg.com/Product/Prod...-na-_-na&cm_sp=&AID=10446076&PID=3938566&SID=

Its a dated design, but man do you get a lot for 110 bucks. (love that the TG panel is on a hinge, more people need to do that)

Also side question, can you fit a 280 in the front and a 240 at the top of a enthoo evolv itx at the same time?


----------



## ilmazzo

Hi guys!

just bought a Pro M Acrylic on sale for the new AM4 platform I will build from April, in the meantime I have plenty of time to modify something in this pretty case, but I need some infos:

- Can't find where to find the tempered glass panel to upgrade to in some future....I need to write and order from them? Hope it will not cost like the entire case lulz

- First step is to having all air cooled, but then I'll move to a full lc solution with external water station.....in the meantime I will stick to 2x140 front and a 140 in the rear..... I love Noctuas but I would like something more "pretty" and with a led (think white will be the choice) for all the three fans.... I need some advice here......

- Modern mobos have fan headers which can control PWM and so I think I don't need a fan controller to keep the system quiet ... I will try to use it when designing the LC custom loop....

- The thread is huge, is possible to view some of the coolest builds on a pro m without pass through all the pages? 

Thanks bye!!!!


----------



## nycgtr

Stuffed the case again. I find this rather interesting. Last time I had sli in this case I had 2 titan x pascals on ek blocks in 1 huge loop with 2 360s and the cpu. Now it's just a 360 loop for both gpus. Titan xps on bitspower blocks. Load temp drops are about 5-6c on both cards. I knew the bitspower blocks performed better than EK for the 10 series but this a huge surprise.


----------



## BulletSponge

I finally got around to building my Dad a new rig to replace the first abomination that I built for him 2 years ago. I learned back then to only buy fully modular PSU's. The new PC absolutely demolishes his old i3-4130 machine in every single way. I'm ashamed to admit I built that one dusty turd he was using until now.

Edit-Maybe on my next build for my daughter I will FINALLY remember to connect the CPU power to the MB before I install it. I always forget and have a hell of a time getting it plugged in.


----------



## bajer29

Scotty99 said:


> Its probably been mentioned already, but has anyone noticed phanteks released a TG version of the pro?
> https://www.newegg.com/Product/Prod...-na-_-na&cm_sp=&AID=10446076&PID=3938566&SID=
> 
> Its a dated design, but man do you get a lot for 110 bucks. (love that the TG panel is on a hinge, more people need to do that)
> 
> Also side question, can you fit a 280 in the front and a 240 at the top of a enthoo evolv itx at the same time?


Yeah, the one feature I'd love to have on the Pro M would be hinges. Kinda wish this was announced earlier. I probably would have waited. Oh well. Still love my hinge-less Pro M


----------



## whitrzac

Picked up a primo for my media PC.

Can anyone confirm what size/thickness of radiator fits on top while using 4 of the 5.25 bays?


----------



## Aegirsson

whitrzac said:


> Picked up a primo for my media PC.
> 
> Can anyone confirm what size/thickness of radiator fits on top while using 4 of the 5.25 bays?


Alphacool nexxos x-flow 420 45mm thick with 25 mm fan (push) fits with space enough for routing tubes. 60mm thick should fit too but with no fan (push)

Wysłane z mojego SM-N9005 przy użyciu Tapatalka


----------



## ExcellentAmp

whitrzac said:


> Picked up a primo for my media PC.
> 
> Can anyone confirm what size/thickness of radiator fits on top while using 4 of the 5.25 bays?


I have a Hardware Labs 480 multi port (60mm thick) with fans in push and it barely encroaches on the second drive bay from the top. If you're using the 5.25 for hard drives, I would perhaps suggest a thinner rad (if you want a 480 in the top, 45mm would presumably work) and/or put the fans in pull. Hope this helps.


----------



## whitrzac

Thanks.

i was planing on a 'normal' 30mm rad +push/pull 120s. I have a 360 now, but may pick up a 420 after verifying fitment. 

This is kindof a spare parts build so I'm trying to not go all out and spend a fortune, but my h440 just didn't have the fitment I needed. 


Inital setup will be a 360 30mm rad on on top, 240mm rad/pump/res(mcr220drive) on the bottom, and hopefully I can cool my pro duo and furyX without having the fans cranked to 11.

3x BDRW drives
1x DVD litescribe drive


----------



## ExcellentAmp

whitrzac said:


> Thanks.
> 
> i was planing on a 'normal' 30mm rad +push/pull 120s. I have a 360 now, but may pick up a 420 after verifying fitment.
> 
> This is kindof a spare parts build so I'm trying to not go all out and spend a fortune, but my h440 just didn't have the fitment I needed.
> 
> 
> Inital setup will be a 360 30mm rad on on top, 240mm rad/pump/res(mcr220drive) on the bottom, and hopefully I can cool my pro duo and furyX without having the fans cranked to 11.
> 
> 3x BDRW drives
> 1x DVD litescribe drive


One other recommendation, if I may. If you haven't followed this thread thoroughly, @doyll made a great discovery about the Primo. For bottom mounted rads, it's best to raise the case (i.e blocks or bottlecaps was the the reference he made, lol) just an inch or two to assist with air intake through the bottom. I have a single loop with two 480s cooling a cpu and 2 gtx 980tis and it lowered my gpu temps by 5-7 degrees Celsius on average. There's even a diagram in this thread with the specs for building a rolling cart too.


----------



## pez

BulletSponge said:


> I finally got around to building my Dad a new rig to replace the first abomination that I built for him 2 years ago. I learned back then to only buy fully modular PSU's. The new PC absolutely demolishes his old i3-4130 machine in every single way. I'm ashamed to admit I built that one dusty turd he was using until now.
> 
> Edit-Maybe on my next build for my daughter I will FINALLY remember to connect the CPU power to the MB before I install it. I always forget and have a hell of a time getting it plugged in.


Well I'll say that the new build has redeemed you for the previous one .


----------



## Meoh

Hey folks. I've seen amazing builds here on this forum and a bit scared to share with you my own first humble attempt but will take my chance anyway. Primarily to thank people who answered my questions about sizes and airflow earlier this thread. Thanks! 

"The Creamer"

delidded i7 7700K @4.9GHz
Asus Maximus IX Formula
2x8 Gb Corsair Vengeance RGB 3200 MHz
Inno3D iChill 1080 TI X3
Samsung 850 Pro 128 Gb
WD Blue 2Tb
Stock Phanteks Fans in front + white EK Vardars at the top
Corsair RM650x
Cheap sleeved cables from AliExpress 
Phanteks Enthoo Evolv ATX TG
Cooling parts from EKWB


----------



## mAs81

Looks really great , kudos :thumb:


----------



## doyll

Very nice job Meoh. :specool:


----------



## DarthBaggins

Got a couple runs done in the Pro M SE, need to drill out for the passthru's so I can position the pumps in the basement.


----------



## whitrzac

Got my primo in today.

Bit bigger than I was expecting, lol.


----------



## m4fox90

OCN's search function still can't return anything useful, so I'm here to ask a question I'm sure has been asked and answered already: Anybody know a good way to reduce dust coming in to the Pro M from the front? Custom filters, juryrigs, etc? I'm seeing a definite noticeable dust intake, way more than I had been over the summer.


----------



## doyll

m4fox90 said:


> OCN's search function still can't return anything useful, so I'm here to ask a question I'm sure has been asked and answered already: Anybody know a good way to reduce dust coming in to the Pro M from the front? Custom filters, juryrigs, etc? I'm seeing a definite noticeable dust intake, way more than I had been over the summer.


First off, why are you now getting more dust when you didn't in the summer? What changed between then and now?


----------



## m4fox90

doyll said:


> First off, why are you now getting more dust when you didn't in the summer? What changed between then and now?


running ceiling-mounted central heating now in my building, so there's a lot more air moving around. Also case is now several inches higher, if that would have any effect.


----------



## doyll

m4fox90 said:


> running ceiling-mounted central heating now in my building, so there's a lot more air moving around. Also case is now several inches higher, if that would have any effect.


Makes sense. Forced air heating keeps more dust in air. But case setting higher shouldn't increase dust. I don't have Pro M, but do have several other Phanteks cases and have found the stock filters to work quite well .. but then our house is radiator heated in a not too dry environment.


----------



## pez

If you're not using the top vents, do you have them blocked off? I saw an immense improvement in dust intake when I blocked off (read: put stuff on top of my case) the top vents. Even with the top mesh being effective, it's unfortunately not full-proof if there's no air moving through them constantly. Also, as doyll usually recommends, even if you do have fans up there, it would be useful to block off the openings/portions of the vents that are not being occupied.


----------



## kevindd992002

Can anybody send me a link to how to do the simple front mod for the Enthoo Evolv ATX?


----------



## doyll

kevindd992002 said:


> Can anybody send me a link to how to do the simple front mod for the Enthoo Evolv ATX?


Spacing the front panel out does not really make much if any difference unless it is spaced out about 10+mm so it is in front of side panels .. and then it looks weird. 

What are your airflow temps going into CPU and GPU coolers?

But if that's what you want to do, you will need longer M3.5 mounting screws. Length will depend on thickness of spacer. I cut mine to match thickness with hacksaw and then filed ends smooth and radiused to clean threads.


----------



## kevindd992002

doyll said:


> Spacing the front panel out does not really make much if any difference unless it is spaced out about 10+mm so it is in front of side panels .. and then it looks weird.
> 
> What are your airflow temps going into CPU and GPU coolers?
> 
> But if that's what you want to do, you will need longer M3.5 mounting screws. Length will depend on thickness of spacer. I cut mine to match thickness with hacksaw and then filed ends smooth and radiused to clean threads.


I'm still in the process of building my build (just finished cleaning my rads). I just figured why not do the front mod already along the process.


----------



## nycgtr

Final revision in this case. Next time it will be a v3000. Done with the evolv


----------



## Aegirsson

nycgtr said:


> Final revision in this case. Next time it will be a v3000. Done with the evolv


Nice.

Wysłane z mojego SM-N9005 przy użyciu Tapatalka


----------



## ExcellentAmp

nycgtr said:


> Final revision in this case. Next time it will be a v3000. Done with the evolv


Beauty!!


----------



## mAs81

nycgtr said:


> Final revision in this case. Next time it will be a v3000. Done with the evolv


Looks boss,kudos...


...I have had my evolve matx for some weeks now but I still haven't built in it..I wanted to get a new gpu first,but lol that's not likely to happen anytime soon in this market


----------



## nyk20z3

Just ordered a Phanteks Enthoo Luxe TG in Gray with a few Halo fan adapters so i will update you guys as i go along. I am coming from a Shift and Shift X last year so i am no stranger to Phanteks cases and there quality. I am quite the case whore and this would be my 8th case in over a years time so hopefully i can settle in with it for a while. I chose it primarily based on its aesthetics and i have matching Glacier blocks for a 8700K and Strix 1080 Ti.


----------



## Andrew LB

doyll said:


> You might be able to put a 2nd coat on if needed .. and they make blacker colored markers for touching up gun blackening/bluing.
> https://www.birchwoodcasey.com/Spec...sto+gun+black+touch-up+pen&searchmode=anyword


The only one of those pens that i'd recommend using is the one made to put a black finish on aluminum. All those other types of cold bluing are highly toxic, have poor durability, and can be nearly impossible to get an even color if applied to larger areas.


----------



## andyc26

Downsized from a CM Storm trooper to a Enthoo Pro M TG and I have to say it is the nicest case I have ever owned! Gotta thank all you guys here on OCN for the amount of info and tips you provide that helped me make the decision to buy it. I had to pay A$52(!) shipping to get it to me but completely worth it.

Anyhoo I thought I'd share a few pics of a little improvement I made to my case based on doyll and pez's advice on blocking the top vents if you're not running top exhaust. It's probably been done before but it looks a hell of a lot better than when I had books sitting on top of my case.

I just found some old black photography card, trimmed it to cover the radiator bracket holes and used black tape to hold it in place. I left a small gap at the back near the rear of the CPU HSF thinking it might help with positive pressure? I've also left the 5.25 mount in with the thinking that it would help direct my front 140mm fan's air towards the cpu. Plus then I don't have to find a place to store it!


----------



## nyk20z3

I got the case in a few days ago but haven't had much time to mess with it. I started by installing the Koolance dual bay D5 res for now. So far i love the quality and especially the color of this case after having nothing but Black cases for years.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Just need to finish the base's pump mounting and runs. .


----------



## nyk20z3

DarthBaggins said:


> Just need to finish the base's pump mounting and runs. .


Super clean and nice work so far....


----------



## DarthBaggins

nyk20z3 said:


> Super clean and nice work so far....


Thanks, decided to not rush this one at all and work on getting it done on a higher level then I have done builds in the past.


----------



## doyll

:thumb:Nice build DarthBaggins :thumb:
My first white case O was surprise at how much easier it was to see what I was doing.


----------



## nyk20z3

I gutted the HDD cages in the Luxe today to test fit my 240 SE rad and fans. It looks so anemic because there is prob another 5,6'' of space i can use between the front of the case and the psu shroud. I might go with a thicker rad or just leave it as is but i do have plans to also run a 360 rad up top preferably an EK SE to avoid any clearance issues with the mobo.


----------



## ciarlatano

nyk20z3 said:


> I gutted the HDD cages in the Luxe today to test fit my 240 SE rad and fans. It looks so anemic because there is prob another 5,6'' of space i can use between the front of the case and the psu shroud. I might go with a thicker rad or just leave it as is but i do have plans to also run a 360 rad up top preferably an EK SE to avoid any clearance issues with the mobo.


You can fit a decent rad up top, you don't need to use the worst rad on the market. An HWL GTS or Sr2 will fit, as will an AC XT45, XSPC RX, etc. You can fit a decent rad in the front, as well.


----------



## DarthBaggins

It surprised me on how much clearance I had between my mobo and rad in the Pro M SE, thight case yet gives you the allowance and clearances to run things as you see fit.


----------



## The Pook

anyone got any TASTEFUL mods or ideas to get some more airflow through the front panel of the P400S?

Temps went up a good 10c on both the CPU and GPU going from my Fractal Design Arc Midi R2 to a new P400S. taking the front panel off drops temps dramatically but it looks fugly


----------



## asdkj1740

The Pook said:


> anyone got any TASTEFUL mods or ideas to get some more airflow through the front panel of the P400S?
> 
> Temps went up a good 10c on both the CPU and GPU going from my Fractal Design Arc Midi R2 to a new P400S. taking the front panel off drops temps dramatically but it looks fugly


i would suggest you to order a custom filter from demcifilter.
you need to measure the size of the ventilation by yourself.


phanteks p400 front filter design really disgusts me, what a super cut cost solution.


----------



## doyll

The Pook said:


> anyone got any TASTEFUL mods or ideas to get some more airflow through the front panel of the ?
> 
> Temps went up a good 10c on both the CPU and GPU going from my Fractal Design Arc Midi R2 to a new P400S. taking the front panel off drops temps dramatically but it looks fugly


Are you running the stock front intake fans? The P series cases are the only ones with this fan design. It's quite different from other Phanteks fans and Phanteks gives no specifications for them. I changed mine to 3x 120mm PH-F120MP fans before building system and have decent airflow .. good enough that when stress testing both CPU and GPU airflow temp into both coolers is less then 4c above room ambient. I also removed all PCIe back slot covers.

It will be interesting to see how P400 front looks, sounds, and performs with more front venting. 

I suggest water jet or laser cutter to get best cuts, but even a Dremel with steady hands can cut some straight line designs. Here is a youtube tutorial of P400 front.
https://youtu.be/_Nr_WNGw1XY?t=309



asdkj1740 said:


> i would suggest you to order a custom filter from demcifilter.
> you need to measure the size of the ventilation by yourself.
> 
> phanteks p400 front filter design really disgusts me, what a super cut cost solution.


In Phantek's defence, Eclipes P400 and P300 are bottom of case line. Eclipes cases are simple low cost entry level products.


----------



## mAs81

The Pook said:


> anyone got any TASTEFUL mods or ideas to get some more airflow through the front panel of the P400S?
> 
> Temps went up a good 10c on both the CPU and GPU going from my Fractal Design Arc Midi R2 to a new P400S. taking the front panel off drops temps dramatically but it looks fugly


Unless you have access to a laser-cutter , I don't see any other solution..Sure, you can ask for a price estimate to have it custom made for you , at either mnpctech,PPC,or V1 Tech but it will be more costly for sure..


----------



## The Pook

asdkj1740 said:


> i would suggest you to order a custom filter from demcifilter.
> you need to measure the size of the ventilation by yourself.
> 
> phanteks p400 front filter design really disgusts me, what a super cut cost solution.


I'll look into them, thanks. 

I knew airflow sucked but I really liked the look of the case and the TG for the price. I was expecting maybe a few degree increase in temps, not 10+  



doyll said:


> Are you running the stock front intake fans? The P series cases are the only ones with this fan design. It's quite different from other Phanteks fans and Phanteks gives no specifications for them. I changed mine to 3x 120mm PH-F120MP fans before building system and have decent airflow .. good enough that when stress testing both CPU and GPU airflow temp into both coolers is less then 4c above room ambient. I also removed all PCIe back slot covers.
> 
> It will be interesting to see how P400 front looks, sounds, and performs with more front venting.
> 
> I suggest water jet or laser cutter to get best cuts, but even a Dremel with steady hands can cut some straight line designs. Here is a youtube tutorial of P400 front.
> https://youtu.be/_Nr_WNGw1XY?t=309


Not using any stock fans, got two BitFenix Spectre Pro 140mms up front and a BitFenix 120mm in the back. 

I've got my 1060 and 950 in this build so removing PCI covers wouldn't be all that beneficial I don't think but I might give it a go. Was considering maybe using the top fans as intakes, but that'd only help out my CPU temps if anything. 

I thought this was a pretty good idea  but I have display cables hooked up to my GPUs it really wouldn't work out for me that well.


----------



## Scotty99

I think people put too much stock in youtube reviews and the current must have mesh front panel thing going on. I switched my system from a meshify c back to my H440 and cpu/gpu temps are only 1-2c higher. If you went by what the internet says the H440 is one of the worst cooling cases on the market because they have it in their heads its not up to par, testing bares out different results. (albeit H440 has a 2nd revision with larger mesh)

I havent had a p400 but it has plenty of room behind the front panel to intake air, just because it does not have a full mesh front does not mean that it has poor airflow.


----------



## doyll

Scotty99 said:


> I think people put too much stock in youtube reviews and the current must have mesh front panel thing going on. I switched my system from a meshify c back to my H440 and cpu/gpu temps are only 1-2c higher. If you went by what the internet says the H440 is one of the worst cooling cases on the market because they have it in their heads its not up to par, testing bares out different results. (albeit H440 has a 2nd revision with larger mesh)
> 
> I havent had a p400 but it has plenty of room behind the front panel to intake air, just because it does not have a full mesh front does not mean that it has poor airflow.


Room between front panel and fans is only part of having good airflow. There also needs to be venting of similar size as fans, and Eclipes cases only have a small vent at bottom of front and and even smaller vent at top .. resulting in very little airflow to fan/s without having airspeed through vents fast enough for them to be whistling Dixie.


----------



## Scotty99

doyll said:


> Room between front panel and fans is only part of having good airflow. There also needs to be venting of similar size as fans, and Eclipes cases only have a small vent at bottom of front and and even smaller vent at top .. resulting in very little airflow to fan/s without having airspeed through vents fast enough for them to be whistling Dixie.


Well my H440 has just one side of venting and it also has less room between the front panel and the fans due to the noise dampening material, and i only see 1-2c (3c at max) higher temps than one of the best cooling cases on the market in the meshify c (with all fan mounts populated). If someone saw a 10c rise from case to case they were in a hotter room, simple as that.


----------



## Satanello

Hi guys. I installed my 7700k + 2 r9 290x on gigabyte z270 Gaming 7 (Phanteks Enthoo Pro M case) Video cards cooler by Arctic Accelero extreme IV but the upper card reach very high temp. I tried lot of fan configurations without good results but if i play games without the plexy panel i can reach "decent" temp.

I'm planning to rebuild the plexy panel to add 1 or 2 lateral fan/s to "push" out of the case the hot air.







What do you think about?









Thank you!







P.S.lease be patient my English is terrible.







Inviato da mTalk


----------



## nyk20z3

Any word if Phanteks will release the vertical gpu bracket/riser card that comes with the Elite for any Phanteks lover to use ?


----------



## ilmazzo

Satanello said:


> Hi guys. I installed my 7700k + 2 r9 290x on gigabyte z270 Gaming 7 (Phanteks Enthoo Pro M case) Video cards cooler by Arctic Accelero extreme IV but the upper card reach very high temp. I tried lot of fan configurations without good results but if i play games without the plexy panel i can reach "decent" temp.
> 
> I'm planning to rebuild the plexy panel to add 1 or 2 lateral fan/s to "push" out of the case the hot air.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What do you think about?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thank you!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> P.S.lease be patient my English is terrible.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Inviato da mTalk


Yo paesa'!!!

Think your system is very stealth, almost invisible lol

Anyway, putting two fans on the lateral plexy panel will destroy the stilish of the case, accellero's are not ideal for a cf/sli configuration due to the reduced air space ..... would be better to swap on the upper one with something "radial" which can perform well even with little space, the noise level would go up for sure but the temp would be better....ciao!


----------



## Satanello

ilmazzo said:


> Yo paesa'!!!
> 
> Think your system is very stealth, almost invisible lol
> 
> Anyway, putting two fans on the lateral plexy panel will destroy the stilish of the case, accellero's are not ideal for a cf/sli configuration due to the reduced air space ..... would be better to swap on the upper one with something "radial" which can perform well even with little space, the noise level would go up for sure but the temp would be better....ciao!


Ciao!! 
Tnx for your help, unfortunately i need better thermal performance with reasonable noise so aesthetics must go down in priority list! Here attached you can find a picture to better understand the configuration.
tomorrow I'll try to simulate a new panel. I will make one in cardboard to verify the difference in performance.
The 290x (VTX3D R9 290X X-Edition) with the dissy stock (immediately reached 95 ° going in throttling!)
The second idea is to use a pci express extension cable to mount the video card attached to the side panel so that it can get fresh air from the outside.

Does anyone with this case have video cards in sli or crossfire?
Thanks to all those who can give me some advice.


----------



## dainfamous

Need at least another front fan 140mm. One fan seems to be trying to supply the cpu cooler and 2 video cards which isnt enough. Move the rear case fan to the front at a minimum. And with the front cover on, the top portion (~1/4 of the fan) has no air flow cuz the cover covers it up if that makes sense. Might have to max out the speeds on the case fans so it can supply enough air to your components.


----------



## pez

Yep, just grab another 140mm Phanteks fan (140MP) and you'll be good to go.


----------



## kevindd992002

What good material do you guys recommend to block off the spaces on the rad bracket up top of the Enthoo Evolv ATX?


----------



## Satanello

Hi guys, i'm back after some tests and the result is: panel with intake fan is a huge improvement (for me at least).
Here attached some images and screnshots: 9°C on VRM1 and 7°C GPU difference for the upper video card is a good improvement!
Temp results after 3 loop of the Metro Redux benchmark.
Ambient temp was 21.6 / 21.7°.


----------



## doyll

Satanello said:


> Hi guys, i'm back after some tests and the result is: panel with intake fan is a huge improvement (for me at least).
> Here attached some images and screnshots: 9°C on VRM1 and 7°C GPU difference for the upper video card is a good improvement!
> Temp results after 3 loop of the Metro Redux benchmark.
> Ambient temp was 21.6 / 21.7°.


Nice work! :thumb:
It is too bad the Enthoo Pro M does not have bottom intake vents and removable PSU panel. In my Enthoo Luxe (same case as Enthoo Pro) I removed PSU panel and added a bottom intake to help with the 2x front intakes to lower GPU temps.

Your back fan in top panel is wothless as exhaust and even worse as intake. As exhaust it will form a airflow circle between it and intake fan in front of it, and as an intake it is pushing air into where heated exhaust air needs to flow to leave the case. 
http://www.overclock.net/forum/23159549-post21.html


----------



## Satanello

doyll said:


> Nice work! :thumb:
> It is too bad the Enthoo Pro M does not have bottom intake vents and removable PSU panel. In my Enthoo Luxe (same case as Enthoo Pro) I removed PSU panel and added a bottom intake to help with the 2x front intakes to lower GPU temps.
> 
> Your back fan in top panel is wothless as exhaust and even worse as intake. As exhaust it will form a airflow circle between it and intake fan in front of it, and as an intake it is pushing air into where heated exhaust air needs to flow to leave the case.
> http://www.overclock.net/forum/23159549-post21.html


Thank for your help, actually i'm using 6 fan in "balanced config (3 in and 3 out). I've prepared an image please verify if i understand correctly


----------



## doyll

Satanello said:


> Thank for your help, actually i'm using 6 fan in "balanced config (3 in and 3 out). I've prepared an image please verify if i understand correctly


You got the arrow for upper front fan to nearest front top fan showing exactly what is happening.

Most of the cool air coming in the front is being drawn out the top .. allowing heated air coming off of GPU to move up and into CPU cooler. 

Unplug that top fan and the cool air from front intake goes to CPU cooler instead of out through top fan. 

Also keep in mind fancy intake vent grills are way more restrictive than back exhaust vent grills. 

Combine that with intake air filters adding even more restriction and it take half again to twice as much case intake fan area to match case exhaust fan area.


----------



## asdkj1740

Satanello said:


> Thank for your help, actually i'm using 6 fan in "balanced config (3 in and 3 out). I've prepared an image please verify if i understand correctly


lol, wadu hek are those top fans.
nice hack!


----------



## Satanello

doyll said:


> You got the arrow for upper front fan to nearest front top fan showing exactly what is happening.
> 
> Most of the cool air coming in the front is being drawn out the top .. allowing heated air coming off of GPU to move up and into CPU cooler.
> 
> Unplug that top fan and the cool air from front intake goes to CPU cooler instead of out through top fan.
> 
> Also keep in mind fancy intake vent grills are way more restrictive than back exhaust vent grills.
> 
> Combine that with intake air filters adding even more restriction and it take half again to twice as much case intake fan area to match case exhaust fan area.


 ok thanks, I'll have to do other tests to figure out which fans to keep (I've already turned off the useless one on the roof and closed the holes with a plastic sheet).
For the final solution I have to decide: 1) if removing the front filter too I can accept a lot of dust or 2) add a filter on the side fan losing a bit of flow ..... it will depend on the difference in temperature!
Now I also have to think about what to do on the other pc with Corsair 400C cabinet (I'll write asking for advice in the other thread)


----------



## Blinky7

Hello everybody. I would like to ask about the Phanteks Evolv ATX Glass.
I am in love with this case's looks and am considering buying it. However I have heard many horrific stories about how restrictive the front and top are and the very bad cooling performance.

I would like to know if this is indeed true or an exaggeration, and if it applies both to water and air cooling...


----------



## ciarlatano

Blinky7 said:


> Hello everybody. I would like to ask about the Phanteks Evolv ATX Glass.
> I am in love with this case's looks and am considering buying it. However I have heard many horrific stories about how restrictive the front and top are and the very bad cooling performance.
> 
> I would like to know if this is indeed true or an exaggeration, and if it applies both to water and air cooling...


It's an exaggeration in most cases, but is wholly dependant upon what you are looking to do. If you are doing a single 360mm that performs well with low airflow (like a 360 GTS), and take the proper installation steps, the case performs quite well. The same goes for air cooling.

Where the case becomes an issue is when people try to jam more than necessary rads, rads that require extreme airflow for efficiency, try to do SLI, etc. This is not the case for inefficient rads or extreme setups, it responds very poorly in those situations. I have great cooling with a single 360 GTS top mounted on the CPU and GPU with fans at 850rpm, but I constantly see people with twice the rad space with issues.

So, depending on what you are doing the answer could be "it will work well", or it could be "the airflow will be terrible". But, many cases suffer from the same dilemma, just not to the extremes of the Evolv ATX.


----------



## Blinky7

ciarlatano said:


> It's an exaggeration in most cases, but is wholly dependant upon what you are looking to do. If you are doing a single 360mm that performs well with low airflow (like a 360 GTS), and take the proper installation steps, the case performs quite well. The same goes for air cooling.
> 
> Where the case becomes an issue is when people try to jam more than necessary rads, rads that require extreme airflow for efficiency, try to do SLI, etc. This is not the case for inefficient rads or extreme setups, it responds very poorly in those situations. I have great cooling with a single 360 GTS top mounted on the CPU and GPU with fans at 850rpm, but I constantly see people with twice the rad space with issues.
> 
> So, depending on what you are doing the answer could be "it will work well", or it could be "the airflow will be terrible". But, many cases suffer from the same dilemma, just not to the extremes of the Evolv ATX.


thanks for the fast reply.

I have an SLI setup with a couple of EVGA 1070ti FTW2 cards running on air. My cpu is currently an 8600k but will probably change to an AMD 2600 or 2700 when they come out.
For the CPU I haven't decided yet on cooling. It will either be a Mugen 5 or an EVGA CLC 280.
In any wase I want silence, so I will not be running high RPM fans and if I move on to something bigger it will probably be a fat 360 rad on the front with push-pull slow RPM fans (1000-1200rpm max)

Do you consider the case can handle my situation? and what would be the optimal cooling for the cpu considering the other variables I described?


----------



## ciarlatano

Blinky7 said:


> thanks for the fast reply.
> 
> I have an SLI setup with a couple of EVGA 1070ti FTW2 cards running on air. My cpu is currently an 8600k but will probably change to an AMD 2600 or 2700 when they come out.
> For the CPU I haven't decided yet on cooling. It will either be a Mugen 5 or an EVGA CLC 280.
> In any wase I want silence, so I will not be running high RPM fans and if I move on to something bigger it will probably be a fat 360 rad on the front with push-pull slow RPM fans (1000-1200rpm max)
> 
> Do you consider the case can handle my situation? and what would be the optimal cooling for the cpu considering the other variables I described?


First off, the Mugen 5 will be far quieter than the CLC at like temps, so if silence is your goal, stick with the air cooler.

If you jump over to liquid, a 360mm may be hard pressed to keep the CPU and two GPUs cool at low fan speeds depending on your usage. On the other hand....the 1070s and 2600/2700 are low heat producers, so you may just be fine with something like an HWL SR2.

You are definitely right on the borderline of where the Evolv starts getting messy in terms of airflow. Have you considered a Luxe, or maybe a Fractal Define S?

Also - don't presume that a thicker rad will give you better performance. There are thinner rads optimized for low airflow that will outperform thicker rads in low noise applications.


----------



## doyll

Satanello said:


> ok thanks, I'll have to do other tests to figure out which fans to keep (I've already turned off the useless one on the roof and closed the holes with a plastic sheet).
> For the final solution I have to decide: 1) if removing the front filter too I can accept a lot of dust or 2) add a filter on the side fan losing a bit of flow ..... it will depend on the difference in temperature!
> Now I also have to think about what to do on the other pc with Corsair 400C cabinet (I'll write asking for advice in the other thread)


Look forward to hearing how it all works out. :thumb:


Blinky7 said:


> Hello everybody. I would like to ask about the Phanteks Evolv ATX Glass.
> I am in love with this case's looks and am considering buying it. However I have heard many horrific stories about how restrictive the front and top are and the very bad cooling performance.
> 
> I would like to know if this is indeed true or an exaggeration, and if it applies both to water and air cooling...


What ciarlatano said. :thumb:

Evolv ATX front has decent airflow with 2x 140mm fans, but that is the only functional case intake airflow available. Spacing front out helps but very little unless spaced out in front of side panels .. and then it looks weird

So while it will work just for one GPU with 2-3x 80-90mm fans and a CPU cooler with 120-140mm fan/s there simply isn't enough intake area or intake fans to supply any more than that. 

2x 140mm front intakes and well vented back panel give good airflow for single GPU and CPU cooling.

If you need/want to run 2x GPUs look at cases with 2-3x 120/140mm front and 1x 140mm bottom intake fans. 3x high pressure rated 140mm intake fans with all of back of case being vented gives great airflow for single GPU and just enough for double GPUs. Enthoo Luxe, Enthoo Pro (same case frame with different front, top and side panels). 

Enthoo Evolv ATX and Enthoo Pro M both also use one case frame with different front, top and side panels (but not the same case frame as Luxe and Pro use).


----------



## Blinky7

I used to have the Enthoo pro M and I know its almost the same inside chassis. I was perfectly satisfied with it but I got bored of it and also externally it didnt appeal to me very much so I sold it. I was rocking an EK predator 360 at the time push pull and the sli gpus received plenty of air from the pull fans.

Currently I am looking more for looks and silence and less for performance, but still I dont want to end up in a furnace situation.
Also I am not going to watercool the gpus ever, but I could be replacing them with a single 1080ti later on.

Due to the looks playing an important role in this project I am definitely not going for a define case however good they are, as I think the look like crap. At most I could go for a Meshify C or a S340 Elite if I step down in the price range.


----------



## nyk20z3

Loving the Grey finish on this case its contrast well with Black....


----------



## ciarlatano

Blinky7 said:


> I used to have the Enthoo pro M and I know its almost the same inside chassis. I was perfectly satisfied with it but I got bored of it and also externally it didnt appeal to me very much so I sold it. I was rocking an EK predator 360 at the time push pull and the sli gpus received plenty of air from the pull fans.
> 
> Currently I am looking more for looks and silence and less for performance, but still I dont want to end up in a furnace situation.
> Also I am not going to watercool the gpus ever, but I could be replacing them with a single 1080ti later on.
> 
> Due to the looks playing an important role in this project I am definitely not going for a define case however good they are, as I think the look like crap. At most I could go for a Meshify C or a S340 Elite if I step down in the price range.


If that's the case (no pun intended)......go with the Mugen 5 to start out, and when you put a loop together for the CPU, simply do a slim 360mm on _top_, not in the front. This way you still get fresh air intake for the GPU, and you will have more than enough rad to keep the CPU nice and cool with very low noise. The Evolv works for your scenario without an issue.


----------



## andyc26

kevindd992002 said:


> What good material do you guys recommend to block off the spaces on the rad bracket up top of the Enthoo Evolv ATX?


Personally I used photographers/artists A4 black card attached to the radiator bracket using black electrical tape. Works pretty well and aesthetically looks okay. Left a slight gap at the back where I thought exhaust from the CPU HSF might flow out, but have also put the router on top of the case which blocks most of it anyway. Mostly I was just too lazy to cut another piece of A4 card to size!


----------



## hammy67

hi all just got my self a new pc case, Phanteks Enthoo Pro M Tempered Glass.


----------



## doyll

hammy67 said:


> hi all just got my self a new pc case, Phanteks Enthoo Pro M Tempered Glass.


Pro M is a good case. If it has 2 fans with only 1 fan front intake, move the other fan to front as 2nd front intake and remove all PCIe back slot covers for more rear exhaust vent area around GPU. This setup will give you much better case airflow / component cooling. These fans are good so with 2x front intakes you don't need any exhaust fans.


----------



## nyk20z3

I replaced the rear 140mm stock fan with a PH-F140XP from Phanteks today and obviously the quality was night and day. The Phanteks stock fans are defiantly some of the better fans i have come across but i always prefer a more high end touch. The main reasons for making the switch where a more premium feel and to try and get better Luminosity from the Halos Luxe bracket which i accomplished.


----------



## ilmazzo

Choosing the right "bang for the buck" fans for my Pro M.

First I have to say that I never heard the oem fans working anyway I'm used to noctuas fans but, since they are a littl ebit "ugly" and I want to make a beautiful rig this time other than functional for my needs, I am wondering which 140 fans LED(white) or RGB do you recommend..... I have seen the halo frames which can make every fan a led fan but since the cost it has maybe it is better find directly a 140 led pwm fan, in case someone wants to use a non led fan it can have a sense otherwise I don't think I would need them if I can find a proper led pwm fan for it, your thoughts?

Cheers


----------



## ciarlatano

nyk20z3 said:


> I replaced the rear 140mm stock fan with a PH-F140XP from Phanteks today and obviously the quality was night and day. The Phanteks stock fans are defiantly some of the better fans i have come across but i always prefer a more high end touch. The main reasons for making the switch where a more premium feel and to try and get better Luminosity from the Halos Luxe bracket which i accomplished.


What fan did you replace, and in what case? I thought you had a Luxe, which would have had a 140SP or 140SP with the updated blades included.


----------



## nyk20z3

ciarlatano said:


> What fan did you replace, and in what case? I thought you had a Luxe, which would have had a 140SP or 140SP with the updated blades included.


Yes i do have the Luxe and while the stock fans are better then most and get the job done i always desire a more premium approach. I replaced it with a Phanteks PH-F140XP which has white blades for better Luminosity when paired with a Halos rgb bracket. It also has PWM functionality and anti vibration corners so overall its just a more premium fan.


----------



## asdkj1740

the p300 stock rear fan is rubbish, nothing more.
and a single intake fan setup is better than a dual intake fans setup, on p300.

really hope what phanteks has said on p350x about high airflow version is true.


----------



## doyll

asdkj1740 said:


> the p300 stock rear fan is rubbish, nothing more.
> and a single intake fan setup is better than a dual intake fans setup, on p300.
> 
> really hope what phanteks has said on p350x about high airflow version is true.


Could you please post supporting data for your above statements? 
In particular the 'stock rear fan is rubbish' and 'single intake setup is better tan dual intake fans setup'.


----------



## asdkj1740

doyll said:


> Could you please post supporting data for your above statements?
> In particular the 'stock rear fan is rubbish' and 'single intake setup is better tan dual intake fans setup'.


later.


----------



## doyll

asdkj1740 said:


> later.


How much later?


----------



## ciarlatano

doyll said:


> How much later?


Maybe he is getting the data from your buddy....which means it doesn't exist.  (That is a joke for @doyll, and is in no way meant to offend @asdkj1740)

What fan is used in the P300? Is it a 120SP? I can't find a listing.


----------



## Melcar

So today I moved all my drives into a spare 5.25" -> 3.5" cage, freeing up the bottom front section of the case. Installed 2x140mm fans on the floor and the front 2x140mm are now totally unobstructed. You can fit 2x140mm fans at the floor of the case, so I wonder why Phanteks did not bother to drill the two extra screw holes. Both of those fans are linked to the temperatures from my GPUs back plate.
I was worried the drives would cook up there with no fresh air from the outside, but a fan simply blowing air over them seems to work just fine. Only have 1 mechanical drive used as storage, so I guess there is not much heat being generated inside. The fan is being controlled by my motherboard, using one of the included temperature probe headers (attached to the hottest drive) to regulate speeds.







Temps. are not much different to be honest. The forward bottom fan is too far from the GPU to make any difference. Maybe if I link it to the CPU temps instead. Or could it be that it's too close to the bottom front fan and causing some turbulence? Just an experiment I wanted to do for a while now.


----------



## woomba

Just finished putting together this one. 
Time to do some bleed testing and add some "bling"...


----------



## hybrid666

Just wanting to get some thoughts from some of you enthusiast. I currently have an evolv itx on the way and I'm curious to know the clearance from the GPU shroud to the ceiling of the case. I am planning to do my first loop (without the GPU included) and I already have a 110mm res from a friend. I plan to buy a 30mm thick-pump that's capable of 600L/H so that's a total of 140mm and that's without the fitting yet. Quite unsure if it'd fit.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Ewww Mechanical drives. . Lol


----------



## nyk20z3

Placed an order for the rads,fans and another D5 pump. I already have this exact pump mounted in the Koolance dual bay res so i will be running them in serial for redundancy. Ive always wanted to try Hardware Labs rads so this was a better time then any to do so. I am very anal with my builds and like to match things as much as possible so naturally i went with all Phanteks airflow and static pressure fans even though i have a bunch of Noctua NF12 fans sitting here.


----------



## bajer29

DarthBaggins said:


> Ewww Mechanical drives. . Lol


Don't hate! 

lol


----------



## DarthBaggins

bajer29 said:


> Don't hate!
> 
> lol


I still use mechanical drives in my media server lol. But the main rig that's under construction is all SSD's.


----------



## mAs81

Hey guys , 
the time to migrate my rig from the 350D to the Evolv mAtx TG is coming close , and I was planning on using the stock 140mm case fans as intake,since I was told that they are very good,,

But I found a guy selling some lightly used(80hours) BeQuiet! Pure Wings 2 140mm PWM for 8 euros a pop..Should I go for them instead?

My cooling orientation of choice is 2 140mm front intakes and 2 Corsair ML 120 on my Corsair H75 push/pull , with maybe a Phantkes Halos bracket for the bling 

The guy has 5 fans , and I could get them all for 40 euros , tho I'm not sure I want to put fans on the top..Anyway , I could use some feedback on the PureWings 2 in comparison with the stock fans,

Thanks :thumb:


----------



## S4vant

Hi guys, hoping for some insight on the fan hub and other connections with my Evolv ATX case.
My mobo is a ASUS Maximus X Hero and I have a Corsair H100i v2 AIO installed as well.

The 3 140mm case fans that came with the case are plugged into the included PWM fan hub. I have this connected to the CHA_FAN2 header.

The fans of the H100i v2 are plugged into the pump connector y cable which in turn is connected to the CPU_FAN header.

In the BIOS, I have the CPU_FAN set for DC or voltage control and set to full speed (as per instructions from various sources).

I also have the CHA_FAN channels set as PWM control.

Does this sound about right? Should I disable the Q-Fan control?


----------



## ciarlatano

mAs81 said:


> Hey guys ,
> the time to migrate my rig from the 350D to the Evolv mAtx TG is coming close , and I was planning on using the stock 140mm case fans as intake,since I was told that they are very good,,
> 
> But I found a guy selling some lightly used(80hours) BeQuiet! Pure Wings 2 140mm PWM for 8 euros a pop..Should I go for them instead?
> 
> My cooling orientation of choice is 2 140mm front intakes and 2 Corsair ML 120 on my Corsair H75 push/pull , with maybe a Phantkes Halos bracket for the bling /forum/images/smilies/tongue.gif
> 
> The guy has 5 fans , and I could get them all for 40 euros , tho I'm not sure I want to put fans on the top..Anyway , I could use some feedback on the PureWings 2 in comparison with the stock fans,
> 
> Thanks /forum/images/smilies/thumb.gif


I've had a number of Pure Wings 2, and the stock Phanteks are a far better fan, especially with even the least bit of resistance involved.


----------



## mAs81

ciarlatano said:


> I've had a number of Pure Wings 2, and the stock Phanteks are a far better fan, especially with even the least bit of resistance involved.


Nice!Thank you,once again for your feedback/input ciarlatano .. :specool:

It sucks that OCN is still borked and there still are no sig rigs whatsoever , but here's what the build will be: 
Phanteks Evolv mATX
ASUS Gryphon z97 armor edition 
4790K
Sapphire R9 290 Vapor-X
16gb (4dimms) Corsair vengeance pro 
..and I already said my cooling config..

I'm hoping to have better airflow than in my 350D and get better OC on my components 

Thanks again , I will be sure to post my build here as soon as I can build it(still waiting on a mini PWM splitter for my GPU which has a burnt fan header on the pcb)

:thumb:


----------



## vassp

I have the evolve matx TG. The phanteks fans are pretty good. l will change them to noctua only to match with my cpu cooler.


----------



## Saint Chewy

Does anyone know if this specific Enthoo Pro M comes with the updated dust filters for the front side slits or is this only for the version with the tempered glass? https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B011A2LWZI/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1


----------



## nyk20z3

A few things arrived today. The fit n finish on these Hardware Labs rads is definitely the best i have experienced through my years of water cooling so i am very pleased. I've become quite the Phanteks fanboy the past year or so the more of there products i can put in the build the better. These fans should perform quite well and of course the quality is second to none which i have come to expect. This is the second Alphacool pump i have purchase for this build so i can run them in series for perhaps some redundancy down the road. I am still up in the air if i want to go hard or soft tubing. I've always done soft tubing using EK ZMT but i think its long overdue i finally use hard in a case like this as it deserves it.


----------



## asdkj1740

vassp said:


> I have the evolve matx TG. The phanteks fans are pretty good. l will change them to noctua only to match with my cpu cooler.


what cooler is this?
it is said that the current orientation of your cooler has the worst performace over other orientation.


----------



## txjoe79

I have the full side panel acrylic Enthoo Pro M and I started a build for my son's birthday today. We did the wiring for fan additions and Halos and LED strip (did not exceed amperage of header on MB.) Also added the optical drive. Does the 5.25 " drive only secure on the acrylic panel side for this unit? Could not see anything on the other side. Just wanted to make sure that's correct. Could not find anything for ODD installation in manual- except ODD bracket removal. Thanks!


----------



## nyk20z3

I mounted the D5 pump, Front and Top Black Ice Nemesis rads today. I was able to mount the front rad and fans permanently but i had a slight issue with the top rad. First of all its massive so it was difficult to maneuver it in to place. I was able to slide it in through the front 5.25'' bays after some brainstorming. The second issue was the mounting holes on the rad are countersunk so when i went to mount the fans from up top i couldnt thread them in. The metal on the case frame and the anti vibration pads on the fans all contribute to this so i ordered 35mm screws already so that should solve that issue. I already sent my other D5 pump out to be sleeved and ordered a delid kit for the 8700K so slowly things are coming along as time allows.


----------



## ExcellentAmp

nyk20z3 said:


> I mounted the D5 pump, Front and Top Black Ice Nemesis rads today. I was able to mount the front rad and fans permanently but i had a slight issue with the top rad. First of all its massive so it was difficult to maneuver it in to place. I was able to slide it in through the front 5.25'' bays after some brainstorming. The second issue was the mounting holes on the rad are countersunk so when i went to mount the fans from up top i couldnt thread them in. The metal on the case frame and the anti vibration pads on the fans all contribute to this so i ordered 35mm screws already so that should solve that issue. I already sent my other D5 pump out to be sleeved and ordered a delid kit for the 8700K so slowly things are coming along as time allows.


You may want to try this: https://hobbyking.com/en_us/metal-round-head-machine-hex-screw-m4x32-10pcs-set.html. 35mm is slightly too long unless you use nylon washers for spacers.


----------



## nyk20z3

Thanks for the advice if the 35mm screws indeed dont work for me i will go with the 32mm!


----------



## ciarlatano

ExcellentAmp said:


> You may want to try this: https://hobbyking.com/en_us/metal-round-head-machine-hex-screw-m4x32-10pcs-set.html. 35mm is slightly too long unless you use nylon washers for spacers.


Big thanks for sharing this. I've been looking all over for these. I would +rep if I could.....


----------



## ExcellentAmp

ciarlatano said:


> Big thanks for sharing this. I've been looking all over for these. I would +rep if I could.....


No problem, glad I could help.



nyk20z3 said:


> Thanks for the advice if the 35mm screws indeed dont work for me i will go with the 32mm!


Hardware Labs took a step backwards with the design of this radiator. Having the screw holes recessed in addition to the shroud being so close to the fins was a double whammy. I miss the SR-2


----------



## ciarlatano

ExcellentAmp said:


> ciarlatano said:
> 
> 
> 
> Big thanks for sharing this. I've been looking all over for these. I would +rep if I could.....
> 
> 
> 
> No problem, glad I could help.
> 
> 
> 
> nyk20z3 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for the advice if the 35mm screws indeed dont work for me i will go with the 32mm!
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Hardware Labs took a step backwards with the design of this radiator. Having the screw holes recessed in addition to the shroud being so close to the fins was a double whammy. I miss the SR-2 /forum/images/smilies/frown.gif
Click to expand...

I actually had a discussion with one of their engineers about this. Their stance on the location is that it poses no danger to the tubes, and that a bent fin would be completely inconsequential. That is not optimal but acceptable. They had no answer for the recess, though. And is why I was looking for those particular screws. They should be included with the hardware, as any fan with vibration pads is a PITA to mount.


----------



## ExcellentAmp

ciarlatano said:


> I actually had a discussion with one of their engineers about this. Their stance on the location is that it poses no danger to the tubes, and that a bent fin would be completely inconsequential. That is not optimal but acceptable. They had no answer for the recess, though. And is why I was looking for those particular screws. They should be included with the hardware, as any fan with vibration pads is a PITA to mount.


I agree. The 30mm they send were hit or miss for mounting fans. And if you had to go through a case or rad bracket your success rate diminished. I use the Phanteks PH-F120MP and those anti vibration pads made it nearly impossible to get the supplied screws to thread into the radiator. I had quite a time trying to mount my HWL L-series 480 in the bottom of my Primo with the fans in a push configuration and getting the filters to slide in unobstructed until I found those screws. I also like that they're button head hex bolts too. Gives a bit of a premium feel for something that may never be seen.


----------



## Bill Owen

FYI, After these clear side panels sell out, https://mnpctech.com/phanteks-case-mods/ all of the primo, pro and luxe panels will be retired, interest has dropped due to age of these models.


----------



## Dominican

Here Case 

Look Great Water Cooled


----------



## asdkj1740

Bill Owen said:


> FYI, After these clear side panels sell out, https://mnpctech.com/phanteks-case-mods/ all of the primo, pro and luxe panels will be retired, interest has dropped due to age of these models.


these models should die. those tg upgraded models are simply stupid.


----------



## tiefox

Hi Guys.

Just an update on my custom Primo build. It is now running, still some things to adjust and redo...but I like so far!


----------



## nyk20z3

tiefox said:


> Hi Guys.
> 
> Just an update on my custom Primo build. It is now running, still some things to adjust and redo...but I like so far!


What did you use for a vertical gpu bracket or is it custom ?


----------



## tiefox

nyk20z3 said:


> What did you use for a vertical gpu bracket or is it custom ?


Custom designed and 3d printed a mount together with this:

https://www.highflow.nl/behuizingen...dular-io-bracket-anodized-black-2pciioab.html


----------



## iKoniKModz

*Project ZB7*

Here's my personal rig/setup that is somewhat finished ... for now at least


----------



## CptAsian

iKoniKModz said:


> Here's my personal rig/setup that is somewhat finished ... for now at least


What fans are those? Build looks nice!


----------



## asdkj1740

i hope the coming p350x would have this fixed. come on phanteks please launchs new revision of p300 fixing this stupid overlooked problem. i thought this had been fixed on p400 after envolv atx and enthoo pro m....


----------



## pez

Have you done any scientific testing to show that this is making a difference outside of the margin of error of the case? A restrictive front panel or too thick of a front mesh would be a much greater issue/obstacle than ~10-12% of your fan surface area being blocked.


----------



## asdkj1740

pez said:


> Have you done any scientific testing to show that this is making a difference outside of the margin of error of the case? A restrictive front panel or too thick of a front mesh would be a much greater issue/obstacle than ~10-12% of your fan surface area being blocked.


why dont we have both solved?
oh, because of phanteks eclipse stupid cheap front dust filter desgin, taking off the front panel=dust collector.

both suck.


----------



## pez

I mean I'm not a fan of the P350X in any sense, but the slight 'blockage' from the mounting portion is the least of the case's worries, IMO. If maximum airflow is the goal here I feel there may be better options that are more aesthetically pleasing, too.


----------



## asdkj1740

pez said:


> I mean I'm not a fan of the P350X in any sense, but the slight 'blockage' from the mounting portion is the least of the case's worries, IMO. If maximum airflow is the goal here I feel there may be better options that are more aesthetically pleasing, too.


this stupid cutout should not be a worry/should not exist in origin.


----------



## ilmazzo

ilmazzo said:


> Choosing the right "bang for the buck" fans for my Pro M.
> 
> First I have to say that I never heard the oem fans working anyway I'm used to noctuas fans but, since they are a littl ebit "ugly" and I want to make a beautiful rig this time other than functional for my needs, I am wondering which 140 fans LED(white) or RGB do you recommend..... I have seen the halo frames which can make every fan a led fan but since the cost it has maybe it is better find directly a 140 led pwm fan, in case someone wants to use a non led fan it can have a sense otherwise I don't think I would need them if I can find a proper led pwm fan for it, your thoughts?
> 
> Cheers


After the tons of suggestions ( lol )...

I was wondering if the phanteks fans model PH-F140SP LED will be good enough for a good air flow/low noise use...... I'm trying to find a retailer in Italy without order directly to phanteks usa and go through customs and so on...... I am used to noctuas to put a height bar on my preferences regarding case fans.....

The idea is to connect the two front ones in the same mobo connector to drive them together as a inlet, and the other in the rear connected to another mobo fan input and using the pwm modulation dinamically.... hope the asrock x470 will be good enough to avoid using a fan controller...


----------



## TheAbyss

Hello dear Phanteks Fellows. I have had some discussion about modding my Luxe this year (thanks @doyll for the Input). 
While refining my plans for the Luxe, I cam across a VERY cheap opportunity to get a Primo SE... which is literally where I wanted the Luxe to get. 
Having said that, I´d like some experience from you guys how to best set up the airflow (full custom wc Loop: Z270 Mainboard with watercooled VRMs, I7 6700k, GTX 980TI).

my plan is as follows:
Top: 420mm rad
bottom: 280mm rad
"right" sidepanel: 240m rad

I don´t have the Option to raise the case, as it is sitting under my desk,having 35mm headroom only. My current plan is as follows:

Option1:
Front: 2x140mm case fans intake
240 rad on the right side: 2x 120mm as intake
upper Back: 1x140mm case fan intake
lower back: 1x140mm case fan intake
Top: 3x140mm rad fan as exhaust
Bottom: 2x140mm rad fan as exhaust

Option2:
Front: 2x140mm case fans intake
240 rad on the right side: 2x 120mm as exhaust
Back: no fan
Top: 3x140mm rad fan as exhaust
Bottom: 2x140mm rad fan as intake

Any recomendations? (yes, I am looking at you Doyll  also on the radiator mounting...


----------



## ExcellentAmp

TheAbyss said:


> Hello dear Phanteks Fellows. I have had some discussion about modding my Luxe this year (thanks @doyll for the Input).
> While refining my plans for the Luxe, I cam across a VERY cheap opportunity to get a Primo SE... which is literally where I wanted the Luxe to get.
> Having said that, I´d like some experience from you guys how to best set up the airflow (full custom wc Loop: Z270 Mainboard with watercooled VRMs, I7 6700k, GTX 980TI).
> 
> my plan is as follows:
> Top: 420mm rad
> bottom: 280mm rad
> "right" sidepanel: 240m rad
> 
> I don´t have the Option to raise the case, as it is sitting under my desk,having 35mm headroom only. My current plan is as follows:
> 
> Option1:
> Front: 2x140mm case fans intake
> 240 rad on the right side: 2x 120mm as intake
> upper Back: 1x140mm case fan intake
> lower back: 1x140mm case fan intake
> Top: 3x140mm rad fan as exhaust
> Bottom: 2x140mm rad fan as exhaust
> 
> Option2:
> Front: 2x140mm case fans intake
> 240 rad on the right side: 2x 120mm as exhaust
> Back: no fan
> Top: 3x140mm rad fan as exhaust
> Bottom: 2x140mm rad fan as intake
> 
> Any recomendations? (yes, I am looking at you Doyll  also on the radiator mounting...


As an owner of a Primo, my current setup seems to work really well for me. I have (2) 140mm fans in the front as intake, a 480mm rad in the bottom with fans as an intake, a 480mm rad in the top as an exhaust and a 120mm fan in the top/back as an exhaust. I control my loop with an Aquaero 6 LT so the fan curves are determined by coolant temp. I've tested for positive pressure using incense sticks so airflow is good.

I know you mentioned that your case will be under your desk but if you can raise it up even an inch or so, air intake through the bottom will be greatly increased (I have mine sitting on a granite coasters which raises it about 30mm). My component temps (mainly gpu) dropped between 8-10 degrees Celsius from doing just that (thanks to @doyll). I also removed the front plate where the intake fans are located and got modest gains but that's personal preference.

That being said, from a brief conclusion of your options, I think you may be overthinking your setup (too many intakes imo). Let the natural configuration of the case dictate your loop design. It's a great case. Easy to build in and mod. Even though it's a bit dated, you'll be hard pressed to find a case at that price point that you can cram so much water-cooling components in.

Be sure to check the dimensions of your 280mm rad you're planning for the bottom. The Primo doesn't accept every 280mm rad.

Hope this helps.


----------



## TheAbyss

ExcellentAmp said:


> As an owner of a Primo, my current setup seems to work really well for me. I have (2) 140mm fans in the front as intake, a 480mm rad in the bottom with fans as an intake, a 480mm rad in the top as an exhaust and a 120mm fan in the top/back as an exhaust. I control my loop with an Aquaero 6 LT so the fan curves are determined by coolant temp. I've tested for positive pressure using incense sticks so airflow is good.


 That does indeed help.. that is how I run my Luxe currently (front/bottom intake vs. top/rear exhaust)



ExcellentAmp said:


> I know you mentioned that your case will be under your desk but if you can raise it up even an inch or so, air intake through the bottom will be greatly increased (I have mine sitting on a granite coasters which raises it about 30mm). My component temps (mainly gpu) dropped between 8-10 degrees Celsius from doing just that (thanks to @doyll). I also removed the front plate where the intake fans are located and got modest gains but that's personal preference.


 I have read that in the thread, let me see if I can cheat a bit and lift the Monster a bit.



ExcellentAmp said:


> That being said, from a brief conclusion of your options, I think you may be overthinking your setup (too many intakes imo). Let the natural configuration of the case dictate your loop design. It's a great case. Easy to build in and mod. Even though it's a bit dated, you'll be hard pressed to find a case at that price point that you can cram so much water-cooling components in.


 I know it´s a great case, that´s why I pulled the Trigger once I spotted it for a fraction of the current Price. SE Edition black/White, exactly the Color scheme I wanted...



ExcellentAmp said:


> Be sure to check the dimensions of your 280mm rad you're planning for the bottom. The Primo doesn't accept every 280mm rad.
> 
> Hope this helps.


As already said, it does help, thanks. I will not buy new Equipment until I test-fitted my existing gear, no worries. Summing up, your advice is:

Front: 2x140mm case fans intake
Back: 1x140mm exhaust
240 rad on the right side: 2x 120mm as exhaust
Top: 3x140mm rad fan as exhaust
Bottom: 2x140mm rad fan as intake


----------



## ExcellentAmp

TheAbyss said:


> Front: 2x140mm case fans intake
> Back: 1x140mm exhaust
> 240 rad on the right side: 2x 120mm as exhaust
> Top: 3x140mm rad fan as exhaust
> Bottom: 2x140mm rad fan as intake


Would you consider shifting the 240mm rad from the side to the front? I think it may assist in the overall design of your loop and give it a more natural flow.


----------



## TheAbyss

ExcellentAmp said:


> Would you consider shifting the 240mm rad from the side to the front? I think it may assist in the overall design of your loop and give it a more natural flow.


I could do that, but would like to have some un-heated air in the case for the top rad.. that is currently the weak spot in my luxe, the top rad sucking in heated air from the front rad.. but I could move the 240 rad to the front and Mount two 120mm fans in the lower right side for fresh air.


----------



## ExcellentAmp

TheAbyss said:


> I could do that, but would like to have some un-heated air in the case for the top rad.. that is currently the weak spot in my luxe, the top rad sucking in heated air from the front rad.. but I could move the 240 rad to the front and Mount two 120mm fans in the lower right side for fresh air.


I had a feeling you may say that and it certainly has merit. [Disclaimer] I'm no expert on thermal dynamics and your hardware is likely different than mine but, I have two 980ti(s) and a delidded 6600k in my loop currently. My gpu temps under gaming load average in the upper 30s (I use an ultra wide monitor 3440 x 1440p) and spike to 42-43 Celsius with an ambient temp of 23 degrees. The fans never spin faster than 1100 rpms (Phanteks PH-F120MP) and the delta T between ambient and coolant temp is ~8-10 degrees. IMO, rad capacity is more important but I know that many will disagree. 

I feel that it's a relatively efficient loop in its current configuration but YMMV.


----------



## TheAbyss

ExcellentAmp said:


> I had a feeling you may say that and it certainly has merit. [Disclaimer] I'm no expert on thermal dynamics and your hardware is likely different than mine but, I have two 980ti(s) and a delidded 6600k in my loop currently. My gpu temps under gaming load average in the upper 30s (I use an ultra wide monitor 3440 x 1440p) and spike to 42-43 Celsius with an ambient temp of 23 degrees. The fans never spin faster than 1100 rpms (Phanteks PH-F120MP) and the delta T between ambient and coolant temp is ~8-10 degrees. IMO, rad capacity is more important but I know that many will disagree.
> 
> I feel that it's a relatively efficient loop in its current configuration but YMMV.


I would keep the Loop as it is in your case.. my luxe has Delta T around 11K, 980TI about the same as yours, Ambient in winter being around 23 Celsius, water as a result around 34 Celsius. Temps in my luxe are not bad per se, just wanted to make it right from the beginning. Thanks for the conversation, helped me a lot. I´d also like to keep wiring as well as hardtubes as simple as possible.


----------



## nyk20z3

The last set of screws came in today because the stock 30mm screws Hardware Labs provides where simply too short. The mounting points on this particular Nemesis series is recessed so between the frame and anti vibration pads on the Phanteks fans the threads would not catch. I also ordered 2 more PH-F120MP fans so i can do PNP on the front rad since i have so much space there it couldn't hurt to do so.

From Left to Right 30mm,32mm,35mm.


----------



## DeX

Wish the PSU shroud had a hole for the pcie cables....









Sent from my SM-N950F using Tapatalk


----------



## DarthBaggins

Should've gone with the Enthoo Pro M for that


Still dragging my feet on mine, just alot going on with work/running a business but I hope to have it done within the next month - if not I'm going to sell off some stuff from the build (but that's still being debated)


----------



## vassp

asdkj1740 said:


> what cooler is this?
> it is said that the current orientation of your cooler has the worst performace over other orientation.


It’s the Noctua Nic-14s. I love it and it looks great in my case.

It’s perfomrance is up there- ever overkill if your not overclocking, l bought it for quietness and looks. 

The cooler runs super quiet and if you plan it right it’s great in this case too it just takes a bit more thought and planning. 

Just bought 3 x 1500 rpm 14mm Noctua PWM- fans today to install in there to match my new colour scheme lol and give me a little more air pressure.


----------



## ilmazzo

Last try

Does anyone have the PH-F140SP LED fans? How are they from a noise perspective? I'm planning to buy 3 of them for the Pro M acrylic I have.... are the led getting current from the same 4-pins header or they need something else? Thanks in advance


----------



## ciarlatano

ilmazzo said:


> Last try
> 
> Does anyone have the PH-F140SP LED fans? How are they from a noise perspective? I'm planning to buy 3 of them for the Pro M acrylic I have.... are the led getting current from the same 4-pins header or they need something else? Thanks in advance


They are the same as the standard SP with LEDs added. Good noise profile, and there is a ton of info from users on this site. LED is powered by the fan connector.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Now to just install the GPU and pressure test and I'll nearly be done:


----------



## nyk20z3

I finally managed to install the Black Ice Nemesis 420 up top using custom 32mm M4 screws. Everything was definitely a snug fit but i made it work and couldn't be happier with the results. I am waiting for my second D5 pump to come back from sleeving and also plan on doing a delid on the 8700K and custom sleeving.


----------



## ilmazzo

ciarlatano said:


> They are the same as the standard SP with LEDs added. Good noise profile, and there is a ton of info from users on this site. LED is powered by the fan connector.


thanks!

I have read some reviews and discussions even of this community and yes, they are average performance fans with decent airflow the led is an extra, I don't want a christmas tree but something noticeable to go with the vynil theme I will choose for the case .


----------



## Bill Owen

Everything listed on this page is last batch of phanteks luxe, pro & primo clear panels, https://mnpctech.com/phanteks-case-mods/


----------



## asdkj1740

Bill Owen said:


> Everything listed on this page is last batch of phanteks luxe, pro & primo clear panels, https://mnpctech.com/phanteks-case-mods/


prices are insane..


----------



## asdkj1740

p350x will be launching in may 23, a week before computex. its size is slighly larger than p300.


----------



## DarthBaggins

asdkj1740 said:


> prices are insane..


How so?


----------



## tiefox

Does anyone kno the color code for the enthoo primo white? I tried spary painting different whites and they are all yellowish comparing with the case original color.


----------



## DarthBaggins

See if you can find a Ford Automotive white, it's a very pure bright white


----------



## ciarlatano

tiefox said:


> Does anyone kno the color code for the enthoo primo white? I tried spary painting different whites and they are all yellowish comparing with the case original color.


If you have a local Sherwin Williams, take a panel down and let them computer color match it.


----------



## tiefox

ciarlatano said:


> If you have a local Sherwin Williams, take a panel down and let them computer color match it.


Thanks but I live in denmark and im not originally from here so I dont think there is an available shop in here that would do that


----------



## headbass

*Enthoo Primo tube res+pump combo*

has anyone tried to mount a tube res + pump combo on the reservoir panel to the right from GPUs in Enthoo Primo with SLI/CF and the HDD cages and 5.25 bays still in place?

I am thinking of switching to something like EK-XRES 140 Revo D5 but have doubts it will fit. I did some loop maintenance this week and installed the reservoir bracket just to see how much space there is and I am not sure. It will be very tight if it fits at all.

The EK-RES 140 Revo D5 has 78mm in width. The heets box on photo is 75mm and there is not much space left. And 970s (MSI GTX970 Gaming 4G to be exact) arent't THAT long. 

Guess it would work with singe gpu since the tube itself is just 60mm wide but still waiting for Nvidia to get the new gen out. 1080Ti is not strong enough to justify the cost. Friggin nvidia postponing the launch, need to sell the 970s while they are still under warranty.

The rear panel position seems kinda stupid as well since I am not sure I would be able to fit the GPUs with tube res in way. I have a bay res and sometimes I get some vibration case noise, luckily only very rarely but still it drives me nuts and the EK mount might work well. I have ordered the new VPP755 which should vibrate less so I guess I can live with the bay res until the new nvidia cards are out, but still would like to know. 
Also I've found out 3 out of those 6 bottom holes on the res panel have no threads and the holes are too big. My case is out of warranty so will be interesting to see how phanteks will respond to my replacement request I am about to send them soon.


----------



## S4vant

Does anyone have any suggestions on how to keep the front panel on the Evolv ATX TG from reverberating?

I did the front panel spacer mod, moving the front panel out about 12mm from its stock location so now the top and bottom parts of the panel are nearly flush with edge of glass, but now the front panel kind of reverberates when I'm talking, or when watching certain videos etc.

Can I glue a thin strip of foam in there or something to break it up?


----------



## jura11

headbass said:


> has anyone tried to mount a tube res + pump combo on the reservoir panel to the right from GPUs in Enthoo Primo with SLI/CF and the HDD cages and 5.25 bays still in place?
> 
> I am thinking of switching to something like EK-XRES 140 Revo D5 but have doubts it will fit. I did some loop maintenance this week and installed the reservoir bracket just to see how much space there is and I am not sure. It will be very tight if it fits at all.
> 
> The EK-RES 140 Revo D5 has 78mm in width. The heets box on photo is 75mm and there is not much space left. And 970s (MSI GTX970 Gaming 4G to be exact) arent't THAT long.
> 
> Guess it would work with singe gpu since the tube itself is just 60mm wide but still waiting for Nvidia to get the new gen out. 1080Ti is not strong enough to justify the cost. Friggin nvidia postponing the launch, need to sell the 970s while they are still under warranty.
> 
> The rear panel position seems kinda stupid as well since I am not sure I would be able to fit the GPUs with tube res in way. I have a bay res and sometimes I get some vibration case noise, luckily only very rarely but still it drives me nuts and the EK mount might work well. I have ordered the new VPP755 which should vibrate less so I guess I can live with the bay res until the new nvidia cards are out, but still would like to know.
> Also I've found out 3 out of those 6 bottom holes on the res panel have no threads and the holes are too big. My case is out of warranty so will be interesting to see how phanteks will respond to my replacement request I am about to send them soon.


Hi there 

I can confirm you can fit EK X-RES reservoir on reservoir panel in Enthoo Primo, have used that panel as well in my previous build 

I have run 3*GPUs setup in my Enthoo Primo, just really depends what cards are you running, if they based on custom PCB or they're based on FE board etc, because with FE you will not have any problems or issues, with custom board like is Gigabyte GTX1080Ti Aorus Extreme you will be able squeeze there 60mm reservoir too, just don't think you will be able squeeze there FTW3 1080Ti and 60mm reservoir 

Although I used EK X-RES without the pump I still think you will be just OK 

If yours cards are longer then I would suggest modify reservoir panel to fit yours card, I modified mine to fit 3*GPUs 

Here is picture of my old loop in Enthoo Primo 

https://i.imgur.com/Kk5fKWU.jpg

Hope this helps 

Thanks, Jura


----------



## Nonehxc

Hello boys!

I was able to score a EKWB EK-Kit P240 on the cheap, so right now I'm finishing adquiring the rest of the bits, but I have two questions.

I will be getting the white Hardware Labs Nemesis GTS 280 and Paint It Black(no colors anymore...), since blacks and 360s are out of stock everywhere. With a EK PE 240 and that GTS 280 will I have enough cooling for a 6700k and a 1080ti? I bet that yes, since my 6700k sits comfortably in the low 60s max load under a Noctua D15.

And another one. I have lying 3 Phanteks 140mm weirdo fans from the Phanteks Enthoo Evolv ATX Tempered Glass, which I think I read were Phanteks 140SP with MP blades or something. I also have 3 Phanteks 140XP installed onto the case. Which of these would be the best choice? Since I will be selling my Noctua and any spare fans I don't use, I also thought of getting 2 Silent Wings 3 High Speed 140mm fans.

Thanks for your attention and help, friendos!


----------



## TheAbyss

Nonehxc said:


> Hello boys!
> 
> I was able to score a EKWB EK-Kit P240 on the cheap, so right now I'm finishing adquiring the rest of the bits, but I have two questions.
> 
> I will be getting the white Hardware Labs Nemesis GTS 280 and Paint It Black(no colors anymore...), since blacks and 360s are out of stock everywhere. With a EK PE 240 and that GTS 280 will I have enough cooling for a 6700k and a 1080ti? I bet that yes, since my 6700k sits comfortably in the low 60s max load under a Noctua D15.
> 
> And another one. I have lying 3 Phanteks 140mm weirdo fans from the Phanteks Enthoo Evolv ATX Tempered Glass, which I think I read were Phanteks 140SP with MP blades or something. I also have 3 Phanteks 140XP installed onto the case. Which of these would be the best choice? Since I will be selling my Noctua and any spare fans I don't use, I also thought of getting 2 Silent Wings 3 High Speed 140mm fans.
> 
> Thanks for your attention and help, friendos!


Hello!

I am currently running a Loop with a 420 ST30 and a 240 ST30 to cool a 6700k and a 980TI (Bios modded), so it purely depends on what noise you are expecting out of your Setup.. in General you should be ok, but it´s not going to be dead silent, nor will it be terribly loud (subjective view ofc).

I have seen those weirdo fans (3pin like the 140SP, but MP fan blades... ), but i think they are only included together with cases, you cannot buy them separately. As for the Radiator (280), I´d stick to the 140MP-ish ones (if you are ok with voltage Controlled fans). Don´t know what 120mm fans you will use for the 240 rad, but as case fans the XP will be more than fine.. all personal experience though.


----------



## Nonehxc

TheAbyss said:


> Hello!
> 
> I am currently running a Loop with a 420 ST30 and a 240 ST30 to cool a 6700k and a 980TI (Bios modded), so it purely depends on what noise you are expecting out of your Setup.. in General you should be ok, but it´s not going to be dead silent, nor will it be terribly loud (subjective view ofc).
> 
> I have seen those weirdo fans (3pin like the 140SP, but MP fan blades... ), but i think they are only included together with cases, you cannot buy them separately. As for the Radiator (280), I´d stick to the 140MP-ish ones (if you are ok with voltage Controlled fans). Don´t know what 120mm fans you will use for the 240 rad, but as case fans the XP will be more than fine.. all personal experience though.


Hello! And thank you for your insight. I will probably use the 140MPish ones since they seem better suited for radiators, from what I can gather reading here and the general consensus among the Wise(ciarlatano and doyll), sell the 140xp ones and the Noctua D15, and tinker a bit. For the 120mm, I will be using the Vardar F3 120mm provided with the kit. 

I'm fine controlling them through voltage thanks to the awesome fan controls on the Maximus VIII Hero, I have undervolted the 6700k to [email protected] reaching low/mid 60s full Prime95 blast and the 1080ti is also undervolted 1898core/[email protected], I think it goes to a median of 72ºC gaming at 4k max settings being a Founders Edition with a blower cooler, so anything that stops my Case from getting off the [email protected]% blower fan speed is welcome hahahaha, and I think it will be a big imporvement going full watah 

Maybe in a month or two I'll sell the EK PE240 radiator and pick a 360 GTS and a bunch of Silent Wings 3 120mm and 140mm and be set for eternity and for the scorching Spanish summer


----------



## VladimirAG

Hi,
somebody knows.. is it possible to install Corsair RM650x (length 160 mm) include cables connectors (170–180 mm) in Shift X?


----------



## paskowitz

Does anyone here know if Phanteks CPU block ports align (x axis) with all of their GPU blocks (in my case Strix)? Or do AIB designs misalign the ports?


----------



## Nonehxc

paskowitz said:


> Does anyone here know if Phanteks CPU block ports align (x axis) with all of their GPU blocks (in my case Strix)? Or do AIB designs misalign the ports?


Judging by this video on our Phanteks Enthoo Evolv, they align. Mind it doesn't show a perfect alignment in the video because the camera is slightly to the right, and they use a XSPC Raystorm Block instead of a Glacier CPU one, but I would bet my left man thingy it does


----------



## headbass

Thanks for reply and picture,
my cards are supposed to be 269mm with the stock cooler, but I am not exactly sure how they measure it. I measured the PCB lenght and it is about 260-265mm (hard to measure when they are inside). Think the stock cooler overlaps it a little. The EK waterblock are pretty much flush with the PCB.

There is quite a big difference between the res only and the pump+res combo. 60mm vs 78mm.

How on earth did you manage to tidy up the cables to mount the pump next to the PSU? I can't imagine being able to do that, there really is no other free space in the back to tuck them in.


I want to grab gtx2080 when it's out or maybe even Ti if it doesn't come too long after the 2080, since it seems the 2080 might come out just a while before the z390 boards I might as well wait for that with the upgrade. And if I'll wait for z390 it might be just a while before the Ti. Hate this forever waiting for something game, why can't they just release everything at the same time ;o]]
or maybe I go for zen+ cause I need to get a new mobo soon, it's dying on me, first some sata ports, now it seems the pcie chip is ****ed and SLI is crashing my system although both cars work in both slots separately
and I play now on 3440x1440 and plan to upgrade to 3840x1600 when some 100-120 panels are out so I am more for eye candy and res then high rates




jura11 said:


> Hi there
> 
> I can confirm you can fit EK X-RES reservoir on reservoir panel in Enthoo Primo, have used that panel as well in my previous build
> 
> I have run 3*GPUs setup in my Enthoo Primo, just really depends what cards are you running, if they based on custom PCB or they're based on FE board etc, because with FE you will not have any problems or issues, with custom board like is Gigabyte GTX1080Ti Aorus Extreme you will be able squeeze there 60mm reservoir too, just don't think you will be able squeeze there FTW3 1080Ti and 60mm reservoir
> 
> Although I used EK X-RES without the pump I still think you will be just OK
> 
> If yours cards are longer then I would suggest modify reservoir panel to fit yours card, I modified mine to fit 3*GPUs
> 
> Here is picture of my old loop in Enthoo Primo
> 
> https://i.imgur.com/Kk5fKWU.jpg
> 
> Hope this helps
> 
> Thanks, Jura


----------



## jura11

headbass said:


> Thanks for reply and picture,
> my cards are supposed to be 269mm with the stock cooler, but I am not exactly sure how they measure it. I measured the PCB lenght and it is about 260-265mm (hard to measure when they are inside). Think the stock cooler overlaps it a little. The EK waterblock are pretty much flush with the PCB.
> 
> There is quite a big difference between the res only and the pump+res combo. 60mm vs 78mm.
> 
> How on earth did you manage to tidy up the cables to mount the pump next to the PSU? I can't imagine being able to do that, there really is no other free space in the back to tuck them in.
> 
> 
> I want to grab gtx2080 when it's out or maybe even Ti if it doesn't come too long after the 2080, since it seems the 2080 might come out just a while before the z390 boards I might as well wait for that with the upgrade. And if I'll wait for z390 it might be just a while before the Ti. Hate this forever waiting for something game, why can't they just release everything at the same time ;o]]
> or maybe I go for zen+ cause I need to get a new mobo soon, it's dying on me, first some sata ports, now it seems the pcie chip is ****ed and SLI is crashing my system although both cars work in both slots separately
> and I play now on 3440x1440 and plan to upgrade to 3840x1600 when some 100-120 panels are out so I am more for eye candy and res then high rates


Hi there 

I still think you will be OK there,I used same case with Asus Rampage V Extreme and as GPU I used Gigabyte GTX1080Ti Aorus Extreme which is longest card which I could fit in this case and I used Barrow Reservoir with D5 pump etc and for radiators I used at top EK PE360 360mm and at bottom Mayhems Havoc 240mm 60mm, very similar setup to my just run there only single GPU 

For GPU block I have used Phanteks Glacier water block, somewhere have pictures of the loop and how it looks but I managed that and no issues there

Regarding the pump mounting at back, its has been pretty much easy, no issues, have run EK DDC 3.2 PWM Elite edition with that loop and no issues or problems, flow has been in 260-280LPH 

Depends on yours PSU but I have run Seasonic X 1250w in this case and no issues,at back has been lots of space and been very surprised how everything went, wish I took pictures how it looked at back

I run in this case and setup 8*HDD plus 3* SSD 

Planned add at front 240mm radiator but decided against this and tried too run extra 120mm radiator which didn't helped as I thought so 

This PC has been used for rendering mostly in Octane or Blender Cycles or Corona renderers plus some gaming and I done few tests with mining as well,if I didn't render then [email protected] I used PC 

Temperatures has been very good and been very happy with the build

Regarding the GTX2080 and new GPUs from Nvidia etc not sure, but I think they will be released maybe in Summer as soonest and usually Ti is released after 6-9 months from normal mainstream cards or after release of Titan versions 

Which card or CPU to choose,I'm still on X99 and went via few boards, right now have ASRock board and no issues, he recognised my 16GB sticks out of box, ASUS Rampage V Extreme didn't want until I updated BIOS etc 

I built recently for friend ThreadRipper 1950x and used like EK block which is just rubbish and bought from Aliexpress Bykski TR4 block and been very surprised with temperatures and how this block performed in this loop

Planning go route as well with ThreadRipper maybe next generation just I need board which does have more PCI_E slots and at least 10-12 SATA ports 

Hope this helps 

Thanks, Jura


----------



## Boooooost

Just got delivery of my personal case the phanteks elite and a customers swift



























Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## TheAbyss

Nonehxc said:


> Hello! And thank you for your insight. I will probably use the 140MPish ones since they seem better suited for radiators, from what I can gather reading here and the general consensus among the Wise(ciarlatano and doyll), sell the 140xp ones and the Noctua D15, and tinker a bit. For the 120mm, I will be using the Vardar F3 120mm provided with the kit.
> 
> I'm fine controlling them through voltage thanks to the awesome fan controls on the Maximus VIII Hero, I have undervolted the 6700k to [email protected] reaching low/mid 60s full Prime95 blast and the 1080ti is also undervolted 1898core/[email protected], I think it goes to a median of 72ºC gaming at 4k max settings being a Founders Edition with a blower cooler, so anything that stops my Case from getting off the [email protected]% blower fan speed is welcome hahahaha, and I think it will be a big imporvement going full watah
> 
> Maybe in a month or two I'll sell the EK PE240 radiator and pick a 360 GTS and a bunch of Silent Wings 3 120mm and 140mm and be set for eternity and for the scorching Spanish summer


Nice figures on AIR. Keep them undervolted, your water temp will thank you for that. ek 240 -> HWLabs 360 GTS is a very nice move, but Silent Wings 3.... they have improved their Radiator Performance of the SW2, but I´d still go for a Noiseblocker Eloop 12-PS (in push) or Noctuas.. they are a bit pricier, but given that you talk about being set for eternity... the 140MP may even be better than the SW3... scorching German summer has arrived, and I am currently building in my cool Garage a new Primo build.


----------



## paskowitz

paskowitz said:


> Does anyone here know if Phanteks CPU block ports align (x axis) with all of their GPU blocks (in my case Strix)? Or do AIB designs misalign the ports?





Nonehxc said:


> Judging by this video on our Phanteks Enthoo Evolv, they align. Mind it doesn't show a perfect alignment in the video because the camera is slightly to the right, and they use a XSPC Raystorm Block instead of a Glacier CPU one, but I would bet my left man thingy it does
> 
> 
> 
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rAss4JRupW0


Welp, I found out the answer to my question today, the ports aren't even close to aligning. Bummer.


----------



## kevindd992002

If I were to put a rear fan in my watercooled Enthoo Evolv ATX TG system, whether intake or exhaust depending on the results of my testing, are the stock fans good enough to do the job even though they aren't PWM's? I have an extra brand new BeQuiet! SW3 140mm High Speed Fan lying around but I'm contemplating if I just sell it and use a stock fan or just use it instead. I feel that an SW3 is too much for that purpose but I want to hear your thoughts on this.


@paskowitz

Are you receiving my PM's bro?


----------



## paskowitz

kevindd992002 said:


> If I were to put a rear fan in my watercooled Enthoo Evolv ATX TG system, whether intake or exhaust depending on the results of my testing, are the stock fans good enough to do the job even though they aren't PWM's? I have an extra brand new BeQuiet! SW3 140mm High Speed Fan lying around but I'm contemplating if I just sell it and use a stock fan or just use it instead. I feel that an SW3 is too much for that purpose but I want to hear your thoughts on this.
> 
> 
> @*paskowitz*
> 
> Are you receiving my PM's bro?


Just sent you a PM.


----------



## mAs81

*350D no more*

Finally migrated what I needed from the 350D to the Evolv..I really enjoyed building in it


----------



## TheAbyss

kevindd992002 said:


> If I were to put a rear fan in my watercooled Enthoo Evolv ATX TG system, whether intake or exhaust depending on the results of my testing, are the stock fans good enough to do the job even though they aren't PWM's? I have an extra brand new BeQuiet! SW3 140mm High Speed Fan lying around but I'm contemplating if I just sell it and use a stock fan or just use it instead. I feel that an SW3 is too much for that purpose but I want to hear your thoughts on this.
> 
> 
> @paskowitz
> 
> Are you receiving my PM's bro?


Good morning,

from personal experience, the Phanteks stock fans (depending on purpose as Case (SP) or Rad fans (MP)) are very good fans, even compared to the premium fan specialists like Noiseblocker, Noctua or BQ. Having said that, I think as case fans (low restrictive Environment) you will hardly hear the difference of a 140SP/XP and a SW3 on comparable Speeds. I have only Noctua´s and Eloops in my new primo build, but that is because I already had the fans, and my pre-owned Primo came without any fans.


----------



## xero|out

My Evolv ITX. Still working on a cut-out design for top and front though cooling seems fine compared to what I've read online.


----------



## Bill Owen

congrats mAs81, maybe give your 350D to a friend now?


----------



## ciarlatano

xero|out said:


> My Evolv ITX. Still working on a cut-out design for top and front though cooling seems fine compared to what I've read online.


The cooling "issues" really don't involve air cooling. They present themselves when cooling is dependent on rads installed up top, that is the trouble spot.


----------



## mAs81

Bill Owen said:


> congrats mAs81, maybe give your 350D to a friend now?


Thanks!!!

..for the time being I'll keep it,I think,but it will most likely end up with a friend or relative indeed 




ciarlatano said:


> The cooling "issues" really don't involve air cooling. They present themselves when cooling is dependent on rads installed up top, that is the trouble spot.


My temps, albeit in the Evolv mATX , with the same cooler and one third of the case fans I had ,are the same if not a couple of degrees better - more quiet too (using the stock Phanteks chassis fans)
:thumb:


----------



## kevindd992002

TheAbyss said:


> Good morning,
> 
> from personal experience, the Phanteks stock fans (depending on purpose as Case (SP) or Rad fans (MP)) are very good fans, even compared to the premium fan specialists like Noiseblocker, Noctua or BQ. Having said that, I think as case fans (low restrictive Environment) you will hardly hear the difference of a 140SP/XP and a SW3 on comparable Speeds. I have only Noctua´s and Eloops in my new primo build, but that is because I already had the fans, and my pre-owned Primo came without any fans.


Right, but the SW3 is PWM and the stock fans aren't. That's kinda what gets me thinking about this whole situation. @ciarlatano and @doyll , what do you guys think?


----------



## ciarlatano

kevindd992002 said:


> Right, but the SW3 is PWM and the stock fans aren't. That's kinda what gets me thinking about this whole situation. @ciarlatano and @doyll , what do you guys think?


PWM fans will work with voltage control, so it boils down to how you are controlling them. Will there be a measurable performance difference between the SW3 and stock fan? Probably not, but there may be an audible difference. If you have the SW3, no reason not to use it.


----------



## nycgtr

update wife rig in the evolv.


----------



## TheAbyss

kevindd992002 said:


> Right, but the SW3 is PWM and the stock fans aren't. That's kinda what gets me thinking about this whole situation. @ciarlatano and @doyll , what do you guys think?


PMW vs. Voltage control... Voltage control has two "downsides" that you may not even see as downsides.. you will need a start boost for some fans for them to start Spinning before reducing the voltage to the desired value and PWM fans are likely to spin in lower RPMs, where voltage-controlled fans already stop Spinning... so completely depents on how low you want to stabilize your RPM and how you control the fans (e.g. if your control mechanism Features a start boost functionality)..


----------



## JackNaylorPE

headbass said:


> has anyone tried to mount a tube res + pump combo on the reservoir panel to the right from GPUs in Enthoo Primo with SLI/CF and the HDD cages and 5.25 bays still in place?


.

With SLI card lengths of 10.5", I used a 60mm reservoir (EK Res X3 250 - no pump combo) mounted on the Primo's original mounting bracket. I had used a 35x2 dual pump mounted under the upper HD cage (removed lower). Also had a 60mm thick 140 x 280mm rad mounted under it and there should be pics I posted way back when around post No. 1000 in this thread.

I added a EK replacement 3 port top and 140mm EK fill tube in the top fill port as well as a valved bleed / fill port in another top port. The 5.25 bays were not impacted and as above, used only the upper HD cage which contains (2) SSHDs and (2) SSDs. I have about 3" clearance to the radiator below. Post 1000 contains all the primo's dimensions and layou.


----------



## kevindd992002

TheAbyss said:


> Good morning,
> 
> from personal experience, the Phanteks stock fans (depending on purpose as Case (SP) or Rad fans (MP)) are very good fans, even compared to the premium fan specialists like Noiseblocker, Noctua or BQ. Having said that, I think as case fans (low restrictive Environment) you will hardly hear the difference of a 140SP/XP and a SW3 on comparable Speeds. I have only Noctua´s and Eloops in my new primo build, but that is because I already had the fans, and my pre-owned Primo came without any fans.





ciarlatano said:


> PWM fans will work with voltage control, so it boils down to how you are controlling them. Will there be a measurable performance difference between the SW3 and stock fan? Probably not, but there may be an audible difference. If you have the SW3, no reason not to use it.





TheAbyss said:


> PMW vs. Voltage control... Voltage control has two "downsides" that you may not even see as downsides.. you will need a start boost for some fans for them to start Spinning before reducing the voltage to the desired value and PWM fans are likely to spin in lower RPMs, where voltage-controlled fans already stop Spinning... so completely depents on how low you want to stabilize your RPM and how you control the fans (e.g. if your control mechanism Features a start boost functionality)..


I read that varying voltage for PWM fans, although it works, will degrade the fans faster because the PWM circuity is always expecting a 12V DC input and the fan RPM is varied by modulated PWM signals coming from the motherboard.

If the rear fan is intake, how do I avoid hot air recirculation of hot air coming out from the lower back?


----------



## TheAbyss

kevindd992002 said:


> I read that varying voltage for PWM fans, although it works, will degrade the fans faster because the PWM circuity is always expecting a 12V DC input and the fan RPM is varied by modulated PWM signals coming from the motherboard.
> 
> If the rear fan is intake, how do I avoid hot air recirculation of hot air coming out from the lower back?


Correct, but I may have misread your post, you try to decide between the stock fans (voltage controlled) and SW3 (PWM). Most modern Motherboards can be switched from PWM to voltage on their headers, and as I said, voltage controlled fans have downsides that may not even come to Play, so your decision between stock fans and the SW3 is based on the RPM you expect to run as well as your means to control (in other words, if you Mainboard can Switch headers.. or if you use something else to control the fans). If you already own the SW3 go for the SW3, all I wanted to say is if you can properly control voltage-fans like the stock phanteks ones and you are fine with the voltage-based rpm envelope, you don´t have to get SW3.

As for your 2nd question, I´d be interested in an answer as well, because I am currently facing the same question for my new build...


----------



## ciarlatano

kevindd992002 said:


> I read that varying voltage for PWM fans, although it works, will degrade the fans faster because the PWM circuity is always expecting a 12V DC input and the fan RPM is varied by modulated PWM signals coming from the motherboard.
> 
> If the rear fan is intake, how do I avoid hot air recirculation of hot air coming out from the lower back?


Being realistic...do you care if the fan only lasts eight years instead of ten?

I have no idea how to stop the recirculation issue short of simply not using the rear fan as intake. I tried using the rear as intake in the EVOLV ATX, and it did nothing but recirculate the top rad exhaust. Removing the fan provided the best results for me.


----------



## TheAbyss

ciarlatano said:


> Being realistic...do you care if the fan only lasts eight years instead of ten?
> 
> I have no idea how to stop the recirculation issue short of simply not using the rear fan as intake. I tried using the rear as intake in the EVOLV ATX, and it did nothing but recirculate the top rad exhaust. Removing the fan provided the best results for me.


...that´s what I feared....as discussed here earlier, from a cosmetics perspective, the best fan Setup for my new Primo would be top and bottom exhaust for the Rads, while getting fresh air from case fans rear and front.. but I fear it will be not a good move from a temp perspective. Since I have ampled rad Surface (2x420) I cannot say if it would bother me though...


----------



## ciarlatano

TheAbyss said:


> ...that´s what I feared....as discussed here earlier, from a cosmetics perspective, the best fan Setup for my new Primo would be top and bottom exhaust for the Rads, while getting fresh air from case fans rear and front.. but I fear it will be not a good move from a temp perspective. Since I have ampled rad Surface (2x420) I cannot say if it would bother me though...


The Primo is a whole different setup, and the rear fan should not be much of a concern.


----------



## TheAbyss

ciarlatano said:


> The Primo is a whole different setup, and the rear fan should not be much of a concern.


So I guess I´ll just give it a try then (temperature-wise)...


----------



## kevindd992002

TheAbyss said:


> kevindd992002 said:
> 
> 
> 
> I read that varying voltage for PWM fans, although it works, will degrade the fans faster because the PWM circuity is always expecting a 12V DC input and the fan RPM is varied by modulated PWM signals coming from the motherboard.
> 
> If the rear fan is intake, how do I avoid hot air recirculation of hot air coming out from the lower back?
> 
> 
> 
> Correct, but I may have misread your post, you try to decide between the stock fans (voltage controlled) and SW3 (PWM). Most modern Motherboards can be switched from PWM to voltage on their headers, and as I said, voltage controlled fans have downsides that may not even come to Play, so your decision between stock fans and the SW3 is based on the RPM you expect to run as well as your means to control (in other words, if you Mainboard can Switch headers.. or if you use something else to control the fans). If you already own the SW3 go for the SW3, all I wanted to say is if you can properly control voltage-fans like the stock phanteks ones and you are fine with the voltage-based rpm envelope, you don´t have to get SW3.
> 
> As for your 2nd question, I´d be interested in an answer as well, because I am currently facing the same question for my new build...
Click to expand...

Right. I was more referring to @ciarlatano 's response with my PWM fan controlled by voltage comment. Sorry for the confusion.



ciarlatano said:


> kevindd992002 said:
> 
> 
> 
> I read that varying voltage for PWM fans, although it works, will degrade the fans faster because the PWM circuity is always expecting a 12V DC input and the fan RPM is varied by modulated PWM signals coming from the motherboard.
> 
> If the rear fan is intake, how do I avoid hot air recirculation of hot air coming out from the lower back?
> 
> 
> 
> Being realistic...do you care if the fan only lasts eight years instead of ten?
> 
> I have no idea how to stop the recirculation issue short of simply not using the rear fan as intake. I tried using the rear as intake in the EVOLV ATX, and it did nothing but recirculate the top rad exhaust. Removing the fan provided the best results for me.
Click to expand...

You're right, technically it shouldn't matter but since I have access to both PWM and voltage-controlled fans I figured I use either of them the way they should be used. I guess I really just have to test what's best for me. My only concern is that I want positive pressure all throughout the frequency curve.


----------



## Deathscythes

Hello,

I would like to purchase enthoo elite side plates in grey, I have contacted Phanteks but it takes for ever. I have been waiting for almost two months.
If anyone has spare ones I would be absolutely willing to buy them. Of course I would take care of the shipping and its costs.

I am talking about those plates : https://pp.userapi.com/c846322/v846322402/3e569/h6VA0gJfvvU.jpg

Thank you very much, don't hesitate to PM me =)

just in case, if this is not the right place for such content please point me in the right direction. I am struggling extremely hard to get my hands on those, i don't really know what else to do :/

Have a nice day


----------



## BulletSponge

Just started a build in the Enthoo Pro M TG for my daughter this morning. Anyone have any tips as I get into this. This will be my first build with an AIO (H115i) instead of air cooling and I have some Phanteks RGB LED strips to use as well (first time messing with additional lighting). I bought the Phanteks Digital RGB controller as well although I may not need it. The motherboard (MSI X470 M7 AC) has two addressable RGB headers on it so I may not even need the controller but I bought it anyway to avoid any unforeseen delays in getting this one done. Yes, I know this is too much PC for a 16 year old girl who mainly plays Fortnite and a bit of BF1/COD on the side.


----------



## ciarlatano

BulletSponge said:


> Just started a build in the Enthoo Pro M TG for my daughter this morning. Anyone have any tips as I get into this. This will be my first build with an AIO (H115i) instead of air cooling and I have some Phanteks RGB LED strips to use as well (first time messing with additional lighting). I bought the Phanteks Digital RGB controller as well although I may not need it. The motherboard (MSI X470 M7 AC) has two addressable RGB headers on it so I may not even need the controller but I bought it anyway to avoid any unforeseen delays in getting this one done. Yes, I know this is too much PC for a 16 year old girl who mainly plays Fortnite and a bit of BF1/COD on the side.


Move the rear exhaust to be a second front intake, mount the H115i as exhaust up top. Run the intakes on a slightly more aggressive fan curve than the exhaust. This will keep the GPU getting fresh air and the internal case temp and noise level down.

I'm of no help with the lighting, not my thing.


----------



## BulletSponge

ciarlatano said:


> Move the rear exhaust to be a second front intake, mount the H115i as exhaust up top. Run the intakes on a slightly more aggressive fan curve than the exhaust. This will keep the GPU getting fresh air and the internal case temp and noise level down.
> 
> I'm of no help with the lighting, not my thing.


Will do, one thing that is confusing me a bit, I am used to the front panel connectors having 4 or 5 tiny plugs (power, reset, HDD activity light, etc) that have to be connected to the motherboard (Asus boards have the Q-plug thingy for this) but I am only seeing 2 plugs in this case. Luckily my daughter is going to a friends for the afternoon so I'll have all day to get this right without her bugging me with "is it done yet?".


----------



## ciarlatano

BulletSponge said:


> Will do, one thing that is confusing me a bit, I am used to the front panel connectors having 4 or 5 tiny plugs (power, reset, HDD activity light, etc) that have to be connected to the motherboard (Asus boards have the Q-plug thingy for this) but I am only seeing 2 plugs in this case. Luckily my daughter is going to a friends for the afternoon so I'll have all day to get this right without her bugging me with "is it done yet?".


There should be two pin power and reset, front audio connector, front panel USB 3 and a 4-pin molex for the LEDs if I recall correctly. I don't recall if the TG has an HDD LED light.


----------



## DarthBaggins

The TG doesn't have a reset button but a has a RGB control button instead (Sata power) and it does have a HDD light (I know my Pro M SE does).  Really I would just use the on-board controller so you can control everything from within the BIOS and the OS via MSI's app


----------



## ITAngel

Is Phanteks Enthoo Series Primo Aluminum case still worth getting? Does it support dual GTX 1080 Ti Waterforce graphic cards? I am looking for a case that will take my loop that I have on an Phanteks Evolv and move it in to a full tower. I have dual Gigabyte GTX 1080 Ti Aorus graphic cards with EK D5 pump, 100res, and 360mm plus 240mm rads. It is running on a AsRock Fatality X399 Pro Gaming motherboard with a 1920X CPU in the the BYKSKI block. I do like the Elite case but man those are super expensive so was thinking of maybe the Phanteks Enthoo Series Primo Aluminum ATX Ultimate Full Tower Case PH-ES813P_SWT Black/White will do. Also I build many Phanteks Pro M and Evolv so I have a lot of stuff from all those builds. XD


----------



## TheAbyss

ITAngel said:


> Is Phanteks Enthoo Series Primo Aluminum case still worth getting? Does it support dual GTX 1080 Ti Waterforce graphic cards? I am looking for a case that will take my loop that I have on an Phanteks Evolv and move it in to a full tower. I have dual Gigabyte GTX 1080 Ti Aorus graphic cards with EK D5 pump, 100res, and 360mm plus 240mm rads. It is running on a AsRock Fatality X399 Pro Gaming motherboard with a 1920X CPU in the the BYKSKI block. I do like the Elite case but man those are super expensive so was thinking of maybe the Phanteks Enthoo Series Primo Aluminum ATX Ultimate Full Tower Case PH-ES813P_SWT Black/White will do. Also I build many Phanteks Pro M and Evolv so I have a lot of stuff from all those builds. XD


Building in the exact same case (coming from a Luxe). Unmodded, you will get your two rads, res, pump and the rest EASILY in the case. I have already modded the case to allow for 2x420 and an additional 240 with no issues (loosing the external drive Slots except fro one though). nothing Comes closer to the elite than the primo if you want to stick to Phanteks product line.


----------



## ITAngel

TheAbyss said:


> Building in the exact same case (coming from a Luxe). Unmodded, you will get your two rads, res, pump and the rest EASILY in the case. I have already modded the case to allow for 2x420 and an additional 240 with no issues (loosing the external drive Slots except fro one though). nothing Comes closer to the elite than the primo if you want to stick to Phanteks product line.


Nice nice! you have any pictures that show your setup? I am curious to see what you have done with it. XD I would love to get the Elite but I think with that kind of money you can do a lot on the Primo side huh?

I just did an order for the Phanteks Primor SE Black and Red. Comes in tomorrow so I will show some pictures eventually of the setup.


----------



## TheAbyss

ITAngel said:


> Nice nice! you have any pictures that show your setup? I am curious to see what you have done with it. XD I would love to get the Elite but I think with that kind of money you can do a lot on the Primo side huh?
> 
> I just did an order for the Phanteks Primor SE Black and Red. Comes in tomorrow so I will show some pictures eventually of the setup.


No Pictures so far, as I have stripped the case, removed parts of the external drive bay and I am currently doing acrylic inlays for the case.. so nothing to "Show" really... I wanted to create a worklog afterwards, will link it in this Group.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

1. As to the rear fan, it must be recognized that a case does not need any exhaust fans ... that's what that big giant grille on the back of the case if for if you have done your set uo correctly. The reason that the rear fan is an "always out" location is that:

a) your GFX cards, if not water cooled can be exhausting a significant portion of their heat (up to 600+ watts) just below that fan .... do you wat that air sucked back into your case ?

b) your GRX cards, if water cooled are still exhausting about 40% of their hear into your case ... as is your MoBo and every other component inside including radiator shrouds, tubing. MoBo, pump and so on... that air is being forced, thru positive pressure, mostly out the rear case grille in most instances. .... do you wat that air sucked back into your case ?

c) Your 650 - 1050 watt PSU ... you get the idea.

This can easily be seen with a cheap garage band fog machine ($39 on Amazon) ... point the fix behind the case and what thru the case window as case files up with fog. I demo this every time a user asks us to build a box with top rad fans as exhaust and it quickly puts the discussion to rest.

2. As or PWM vs DCV, let's not forget the downsides of PWM ... a) Low speed hum / clicking and b) with some brands, (Corsair for example), you are limited in the number of fans that can be ganged on one channel. I'm not quite sure how DCV fan and /or MoBo manufacturers have solved the "kickstarting" of DCV type fans. One day I will take out the volt meter and measure but here's my assumption.

Back in the day, if the fan curve was calling for an rpm equivalent to 3-5 volts, many DCV fans would not start.... however if called uo to start at say 5.5 they would do fine. I am guessing that when a fan is called to ruin at a certain rpm, an initial voltage spike is applied to get the fan "off the dime" so to speak and than tapered back so that it can maintain low speeds. Maybe it's the MoBo utility, maybe it's in the huib design or maybe fan manufacturers have come up with another idea... but having both PWM and DCV versions of the same fan, the 1250 rpm fans run just fine at 320 rpm. However, when the fan curve calls for < 350, I leave the case fans on but the rad fans turn off.

As for a black and red Primo build .... the profile pic gives ya an example of one ... case dimensions are in post # 1000 ... and many other pics available from that post range including how to make a loop drain with an elbow extension and QD fitting that mounts below a 2800mm rad on bottom that sits under the rad reservoir adjacent the fan below.


----------



## TheAbyss

JackNaylorPE said:


> 1. As to the rear fan, it must be recognized that a case does not need any exhaust fans ... that's what that big giant grille on the back of the case if for if you have done your set uo correctly. The reason that the rear fan is an "always out" location is that:
> 
> a) your GFX cards, if not water cooled can be exhausting a significant portion of their heat (up to 600+ watts) just below that fan .... do you wat that air sucked back into your case ?
> 
> b) your GRX cards, if water cooled are still exhausting about 40% of their hear into your case ... as is your MoBo and every other component inside including radiator shrouds, tubing. MoBo, pump and so on... that air is being forced, thru positive pressure, mostly out the rear case grille in most instances. .... do you wat that air sucked back into your case ?
> 
> c) Your 650 - 1050 watt PSU ... you get the idea.
> 
> This can easily be seen with a cheap garage band fog machine ($39 on Amazon) ... point the fix behind the case and what thru the case window as case files up with fog. I demo this every time a user asks us to build a box with top rad fans as exhaust and it quickly puts the discussion to rest.
> 
> 2. As or PWM vs DCV, let's not forget the downsides of PWM ... a) Low speed hum / clicking and b) with some brands, (Corsair for example), you are limited in the number of fans that can be ganged on one channel. I'm not quite sure how DCV fan and /or MoBo manufacturers have solved the "kickstarting" of DCV type fans. One day I will take out the volt meter and measure but here's my assumption.
> 
> Back in the day, if the fan curve was calling for an rpm equivalent to 3-5 volts, many DCV fans would not start.... however if called uo to start at say 5.5 they would do fine. I am guessing that when a fan is called to ruin at a certain rpm, an initial voltage spike is applied to get the fan "off the dime" so to speak and than tapered back so that it can maintain low speeds. Maybe it's the MoBo utility, maybe it's in the huib design or maybe fan manufacturers have come up with another idea... but having both PWM and DCV versions of the same fan, the 1250 rpm fans run just fine at 320 rpm. However, when the fan curve calls for < 350, I leave the case fans on but the rad fans turn off.
> 
> As for a black and red Primo build .... the profile pic gives ya an example of one ... case dimensions are in post # 1000 ... and many other pics available from that post range including how to make a loop drain with an elbow extension and QD fitting that mounts below a 2800mm rad on bottom that sits under the rad reservoir adjacent the fan below.


Thank you for the reply, could you please Elaborate more on Point 1c)? I take it from you answer that you would configure the top rad as intake always due to the (indirect) heat Emission inside the case (even when fully watercooled?

As for Point 2, I am using an AE6 Pro, so I can configure start-boosts for DCV fans very precisely, also avoiding high surges when they spin fully up, so for me personally, I use DCV/PWM wherever it´s either cheaper or I already have Access to them. The Point I was making is that the user asking about PWM/DCV may not have such flexible means to control a DCV fan.

Thanks again for your thoughts on those Topics. Very helpful.


----------



## ITAngel

Thanks guys I decided to go with it and run some test and I am very impress by the case even though I didn't do the build the way I wanted to. This is just moving my hardware into the case and using clear tubes instead of black one. This is what I got so far and maybe I will add one more rad later on. As you can see I change my plans in the end because of the res and pump issue I ran into. I may add another rad and separated res to put the pump on the back of the case.


----------



## eXistencelies

After waiting nearly 8 months for my damn panels I finally got them back not to long ago. Here they are.


Edit: Not sure why they are coming in sideways.


----------



## =GzR=SmokeyDevil

I guess I should throw my updated build in here.

Internals:

Back:

Front w/ Red LED mod:


----------



## asdkj1740

any p300 modded front panel for better airflow be avaliable?


----------



## Nick the Slick

So excited I finally got around to replacing my cloudy, scratched, awful acrylic windows with glass. Wanted to use tempered glass but it was just too expensive so I opted for regular glass from Home Depot. Didn't get it as clean as I thought I did looking at the picture now lol, but it's still lightyears better than what my acrylic windows were looking like.


----------



## dlewbell

Nick the Slick said:


> So excited I finally got around to replacing my cloudy, scratched, awful acrylic windows with glass. Wanted to use tempered glass but it was just too expensive so I opted for regular glass from Home Depot. Didn't get it as clean as I thought I did looking at the picture now lol, but it's still lightyears better than what my acrylic windows were looking like.


Any pictures of the other side of the panel? I'd like to see how you attached the glass in case I ever try to do the same.


----------



## Nick the Slick

dlewbell said:


> Any pictures of the other side of the panel? I'd like to see how you attached the glass in case I ever try to do the same.


Yes, I just used what's apparently referred to as the "tape of the gods" lol. This to be exact. You may also want some of this. I was too impatient and wanted to get this done ASAP so I just picked up whatever 3M double sided tape I could find at Home Depot and had to get creative with the U-Channel. Though I wouldn't suggest substituting on the U-Channel as the stuff I ended up using was like a tube I had to cut a slit in and it ended up very uneven, difficult to work with, and just unsightly up close, so i'll be redoing it with the proper U-channel stuff. I also had to cut off the "lip" (and tabs) on the backside where the acrylic windows mounted in order to get a flat surface.

Here's the backside though (it's a good thing it's hidden lol):


----------



## ITAngel

=GzR=SmokeyDevil said:


> I guess I should throw my updated build in here.
> 
> Internals:
> 
> Back:
> 
> Front w/ Red LED mod:


Nice, can you share some pictures of the back? I am wondering how you put your pumps that way? I was wondering how to place my so I can get my storage racks back on the case. lol


----------



## PatrickCrowely

=GzR=SmokeyDevil said:


> I guess I should throw my updated build in here.
> 
> 
> Front w/ Red LED mod:


How did you mod the front LED? Links to hardware used if possible as well. Thank you


----------



## PatrickCrowely

UT360, XT280 & ST120 rads. Going hardline when my fittings come in.. Case has been awesome for the 3 years I've owned it. 

Changing the res out as well.


----------



## Bill Owen

your PC already looks great, but it will look even better!


----------



## =GzR=SmokeyDevil

ITAngel said:


> Nice, can you share some pictures of the back? I am wondering how you put your pumps that way? I was wondering how to place my so I can get my storage racks back on the case. lol


Not much to see on the rear of the case. 
I used these vertical mounts from EK to mount the pumps to the 120mm fan slots: http://www.performance-pcs.com/ek-uni-pump-bracket-120mm-fan-vertical.html

Fortunately, the Enthoo Primo has top and rear mounts on the rear of the case for fans. 
The brackets work fine, but the fact that you're left with some wasted room on the bottom of the pumps makes it tempting to either mod them or test out other options.

Picture for reference: 

Don't worry, I did eventually clean up the reservoir.



PatrickCrowely said:


> How did you mod the front LED? Links to hardware used if possible as well. Thank you


I detailed most of the mod in my build log: http://www.overclock.net/forum/1808...nix-phanteks-enthoo-primo-2.html#post26514219
The big part is the removal of the acrylic cover plates on the front and top panels without cracking them. I was fortunate in that Phanteks has excellent customer service and sent out a replacement piece for basically the shipping cost.
Once you have things pulled apart, changing out the leds and strips is easy enough. 
The listed vendor was very easy to work with and I would definitely recommend for future LED purchases.
https://www.oznium.com/flexible-led-strips/super-thin-ribbon-led-strips
https://www.oznium.com/led-bolts-prewired-leds/prewired-leds


----------



## doyll

Haven't been paying attention to thread for awhile. Some really fantastic builds!


----------



## kevindd992002

JackNaylorPE said:


> 1. As to the rear fan, it must be recognized that a case does not need any exhaust fans ... that's what that big giant grille on the back of the case if for if you have done your set uo correctly. The reason that the rear fan is an "always out" location is that:
> 
> a) your GFX cards, if not water cooled can be exhausting a significant portion of their heat (up to 600+ watts) just below that fan .... do you wat that air sucked back into your case ?
> 
> b) your GRX cards, if water cooled are still exhausting about 40% of their hear into your case ... as is your MoBo and every other component inside including radiator shrouds, tubing. MoBo, pump and so on... that air is being forced, thru positive pressure, mostly out the rear case grille in most instances. .... do you wat that air sucked back into your case ?
> 
> c) Your 650 - 1050 watt PSU ... you get the idea.
> 
> This can easily be seen with a cheap garage band fog machine ($39 on Amazon) ... point the fix behind the case and what thru the case window as case files up with fog. I demo this every time a user asks us to build a box with top rad fans as exhaust and it quickly puts the discussion to rest.
> 
> 2. As or PWM vs DCV, let's not forget the downsides of PWM ... a) Low speed hum / clicking and b) with some brands, (Corsair for example), you are limited in the number of fans that can be ganged on one channel. I'm not quite sure how DCV fan and /or MoBo manufacturers have solved the "kickstarting" of DCV type fans. One day I will take out the volt meter and measure but here's my assumption.
> 
> Back in the day, if the fan curve was calling for an rpm equivalent to 3-5 volts, many DCV fans would not start.... however if called uo to start at say 5.5 they would do fine. I am guessing that when a fan is called to ruin at a certain rpm, an initial voltage spike is applied to get the fan "off the dime" so to speak and than tapered back so that it can maintain low speeds. Maybe it's the MoBo utility, maybe it's in the huib design or maybe fan manufacturers have come up with another idea... but having both PWM and DCV versions of the same fan, the 1250 rpm fans run just fine at 320 rpm. However, when the fan curve calls for < 350, I leave the case fans on but the rad fans turn off.
> 
> As for a black and red Primo build .... the profile pic gives ya an example of one ... case dimensions are in post # 1000 ... and many other pics available from that post range including how to make a loop drain with an elbow extension and QD fitting that mounts below a 2800mm rad on bottom that sits under the rad reservoir adjacent the fan below.


So for a front 280mm rad (with 2 x 140mm fans set as intake) and a top 360mm rad (with 3 x 120mm fans set as exhaust), would you still install a rear exhaust fan? My GPU and CPU is part of the loop.


----------



## doyll

kevindd992002 said:


> So for a front 280mm rad (with 2 x 140mm fans set as intake) and a top 360mm rad (with 3 x 120mm fans set as exhaust), would you still install a rear exhaust fan? My GPU and CPU is part of the loop.


As your system is the front is hopefully bringing about the same amount of air as top is taking out. You can check this with an incense stick's smoke and moving it around any other vents / holes in case and see if smoke is drawn in or is pushed away from case. Pushing smoke away is ideal, drawing smoke in means dust is likey going in too. If you add an exhaust in back the air it takes out of case has to come from somewhere else and bring dust into case with it., so ideally you would need another intake somewhere, like maybe bottom. Problem is even if you added a bottom intake the cool air it brings is will be pushing the heated air from front radiator up toward top radiator, so the end result of adding more fans is of no benefit.


----------



## PatrickCrowely

=GzR=SmokeyDevil said:


> Not much to see on the rear of the case.
> I used these vertical mounts from EK to mount the pumps to the 120mm fan slots: http://www.performance-pcs.com/ek-uni-pump-bracket-120mm-fan-vertical.html
> 
> Fortunately, the Enthoo Primo has top and rear mounts on the rear of the case for fans.
> The brackets work fine, but the fact that you're left with some wasted room on the bottom of the pumps makes it tempting to either mod them or test out other options.
> 
> Picture for reference:
> 
> Don't worry, I did eventually clean up the reservoir.
> 
> 
> I detailed most of the mod in my build log: http://www.overclock.net/forum/1808...nix-phanteks-enthoo-primo-2.html#post26514219
> The big part is the removal of the acrylic cover plates on the front and top panels without cracking them. I was fortunate in that Phanteks has excellent customer service and sent out a replacement piece for basically the shipping cost.
> Once you have things pulled apart, changing out the leds and strips is easy enough.
> The listed vendor was very easy to work with and I would definitely recommend for future LED purchases.
> https://www.oznium.com/flexible-led-strips/super-thin-ribbon-led-strips
> https://www.oznium.com/led-bolts-prewired-leds/prewired-leds


Thank you!


----------



## kevindd992002

doyll said:


> As your system is the front is hopefully bringing about the same amount of air as top is taking out. You can check this with an incense stick's smoke and moving it around any other vents / holes in case and see if smoke is drawn in or is pushed away from case. Pushing smoke away is ideal, drawing smoke in means dust is likey going in too. If you add an exhaust in back the air it takes out of case has to come from somewhere else and bring dust into case with it., so ideally you would need another intake somewhere, like maybe bottom. Problem is even if you added a bottom intake the cool air it brings is will be pushing the heated air from front radiator up toward top radiator, so the end result of adding more fans is of no benefit.


Right, makes sense. Although, if you remember we were talking about how the front panel vents are so close to the space that the glass panels create between them and the case itself so dust builds up on those "gaps". I remember the person who had this issue put some kind of a foam to seal that gap.

Since my front fans are pushing air in through a rad (so less cfm than actual) and the top fans also pushing air out through a rad, won't that effectively result to a negative pressure? I guess it all depends on the fan speed and how I adjust the fan curves across the board. Anyone's target should be positive pressure across the whole fan speed range, right?


----------



## doyll

Phanteks has announced 
Eclipse P350X Release

Here's video
blob:https://onedrive.live.com/988c1adc-cfea-425e-896c-1b129fe19fb5

Interestingly they did not say how much it will cost.


----------



## asdkj1740

doyll said:


> Phanteks has announced
> Eclipse P350X Release
> 
> Here's video
> blob:https://onedrive.live.com/988c1adc-cfea-425e-896c-1b129fe19fb5
> 
> Interestingly they did not say how much it will cost.


i dont understand why phanteks cuts the hdd led i/o cables and the lighting effect on the power button.
p350x has almost all shortcomings of p300.


----------



## doyll

asdkj1740 said:


> i dont understand why phanteks cuts the hdd led i/o cables and the lighting effect on the power button.
> p350x has almost all shortcomings of p300.


Don't have either one so won't comment on how good/bad it is, but I will say it's entry level so we shouldn't expect too much.


----------



## asdkj1740

doyll said:


> Don't have either one so won't comment on how good/bad it is, but I will say it's entry level so we shouldn't expect too much.


p300 has 2 hdd led cables (+ & -), and the power button has the lighting effect. wonder why phanteks cuts them on p350x.

p350x should have included two stock fans, and rubber grommet is still absent on p350x.
these cost very very little to manufactures.

btw, p350x is now be able to install 120mm rad on the top panel (rigth above the cpu), thanks to the more aggressive offset phanteks has put on p350x top panel.
however the offset is still far from perfect, p350x could have been able to install 240mm rad given the same 200mm width.


----------



## doyll

asdkj1740 said:


> p300 has 2 hdd led cables (+ & -), and the power button has the lighting effect. wonder why phanteks cuts them on p350x.
> 
> p350x should have included two stock fans, and rubber grommet is still absent on p350x.
> these cost very very little to manufactures.
> 
> btw, p350x is now be able to install 120mm rad on the top panel (rigth above the cpu), thanks to the more aggressive offset phanteks has put on p350x top panel.
> however the offset is still far from perfect, p350x could have been able to install 240mm rad given the same 200mm width.


P350X may support 240 top radiator and just didn't get it in their literature. Phanteks have become very lazy about getting all the details in their advertising last few years, like when they changed from PH-F140SP case fans not changing specs they sstll don't give specs for new case fans. Last fall they changed PH-TD14PE cooler from 2-piece fin to single piece fin and still haven't told us. I should have one of these new coolers soon, but it's out of stock at OcUK right now so am waiting.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Here's a review of the P350x


----------



## Avant Garde

Which fan configuration would you recommend for Phanteks Evolv TG? I will be running X62 as intake + rest of the case fans which I need to configure for positive air pressure, so more air comming in. 
Would you advise : 
front - X62 as intake (2x140mm)
back - 1 x 140mm as intake
top - 2 x 140mm as exhaust
?

thanks guys


----------



## doyll

Avant Garde said:


> Which fan configuration would you recommend for Phanteks Evolv TG? I will be running X62 as intake + rest of the case fans which I need to configure for positive air pressure, so more air comming in.
> Would you advise :
> front - X62 as intake (2x140mm)
> back - 1 x 140mm as intake
> top - 2 x 140mm as exhaust
> ?
> 
> thanks guys


Evolv ATX TG is better suited to air cooling because it has good front to back airflow with top having limited venting and flow. Obviously using radiator in front means everything but CPU will be cooled with warmed air from X62. Putting X62 in top is probably the best option. Block all holes air can flow through in the radiator mounting tray so the air coming up through the radiator can't leak back into motherboard compartment as explained in link below:
http://www.overclock.net/forum/25268315-post13707.html


----------



## Avant Garde

Thanks doyll! As for temps of other componets : I've asked some people with 1080Ti and front mounted rad and they are quite happy with ~30C idle and low 60C load GPU temps (I suppose that GPU temps are the biggest potential issue with front mounted rad in this case). But what about dust? I could even run front mounted rad with two fans, ONE fan on top and one at back.


----------



## mAs81

Hey guys , 
I'm extremely satisfied with my Evolv TG mATX , but now that summer is coming I could use some extra cooling for my components(my "hot" r9 290 needs all the help it can get)..

I've read somewhere that there is a washer mod for the front panel and some included screws , but that is for the ATX Evolv,meaning I'm pretty sure I don't have them(?)


If anyone could point me to the right direction,I'd be extremely thankful..


----------



## doyll

mAs81 said:


> Hey guys ,
> I'm extremely satisfied with my Evolv TG mATX , but now that summer is coming I could use some extra cooling for my components(my "hot" r9 290 needs all the help it can get)..
> 
> I've read somewhere that there is a washer mod for the front panel and some included screws , but that is for the ATX Evolv,meaning I'm pretty sure I don't have them(?)
> 
> 
> If anyone could point me to the right direction,I'd be extremely thankful..


2x stock 140mm fans in front should do a good job. How is it setup now?


----------



## mAs81

doyll said:


> 2x stock 140mm fans in front should do a good job. How is it setup now?


Banned cause it's setup like in my sig rig/pic with the case stock fans(140mm)as intake and two ML 120s as exhaust through a rad(Corsair H75)

My cpu temps are fine , tho my GPU temps are kinda high - it is a hot card after all 

I'm just interested in the way to implement that mod on my mATX Evolv


----------



## doyll

mAs81 said:


> Banned cause it's setup like in my sig rig/pic with the case stock fans(140mm)as intake and two ML 120s as exhaust through a rad(Corsair H75)
> 
> My cpu temps are fine , tho my GPU temps are kinda high - it is a hot card after all
> 
> I'm just interested in the way to implement that mod on my mATX Evolv


I deserved that.  

Sometimes I hate this new forum because when we quote we can't see anything but text of posts. :madsmiley 

Have you monitored the air temp going into your R9 290? I assume all PCIe slot covers on back are removed? I'm running all air in my Evolv ATX and mATX with KFA2 GTX 770 LTD OC e/ F2 fan mod with no heating issues at all. Fans don't even spin up fast.


----------



## mAs81

doyll said:


> I deserved that.
> 
> Sometimes I hate this new forum because when we quote we can't see anything but text of posts. :madsmiley
> 
> Have you monitored the air temp going into your R9 290? I assume all PCIe slot covers on back are removed? I'm running all air in my Evolv ATX and mATX with KFA2 GTX 770 LTD OC e/ F2 fan mod with no heating issues at all. Fans don't even spin up fast.



To tell you the truth , no I haven't removed the PCI slots..We have a dog and a cat and I'm trying to reduce any dust buildup as much as I can..

I'll give it a try tho , ans see what happens..


Ambient is going to rise the following months anyway and unfortunately my setup is in the hottest room in the house


----------



## doyll

mAs81 said:


> To tell you the truth , no I haven't removed the PCI slots..We have a dog and a cat and I'm trying to reduce any dust buildup as much as I can..
> 
> I'll give it a try tho , ans see what happens..
> 
> 
> Ambient is going to rise the following months anyway and unfortunately my setup is in the hottest room in the house


With the 2x 140mm front intakes I doubt any dust will come in the back .. and with very rare exception normal fanned GPUs run cooler without PCIe covers.

I assume the fans on radiator run as slow as possible while keeping CPU at reasonable temps, like 70c full load and 30c (maybe less) idle ? If CPU temp is more than 10c below safe max at full load I would slow the radiator fans until it is about 10c on the safe side. In other words keep the radiator fans moving as little air as possible and keep CPU at safe temps .. because that makes intake airflow move out PCIe slots keeping dust and pet hair out.


----------



## mAs81

doyll said:


> With the 2x 140mm front intakes I doubt any dust will come in the back .. and with very rare exception normal fanned GPUs run cooler without PCIe covers.
> 
> I assume the fans on radiator run as slow as possible while keeping CPU at reasonable temps, like 70c full load and 30c (maybe less) idle ? If CPU temp is more than 10c below safe max at full load I would slow the radiator fans until it is about 10c on the safe side. In other words keep the radiator fans moving as little air as possible and keep CPU at safe temps .. because that makes intake airflow move out PCIe slots keeping dust and pet hair out.


Yes , I keep the radiator fans at low speeds , will give the PCIe slots removal a go , thanks :thumb:


----------



## Avant Garde

Where can I see photo gallery in this thread??


----------



## doyll

Avant Garde said:


> Where can I see photo gallery in this thread??


There is no photo gallary, but there are photos in many of the posts.


----------



## Avant Garde

Well there are 1965 pages and I'm sure many will understand that browsing each one of them in pursuit of photos may be frustrating and cancer inducing  

P.S. They f'ed up this forum so bad. Old one was sooo much better/faster/stronger


----------



## doyll

Avant Garde said:


> Well there are 1965 pages and I'm sure many will understand that browsing each one of them in pursuit of photos may be frustrating and cancer inducing
> 
> P.S. They f'ed up this forum so bad. Old one was sooo much better/faster/stronger


I think most people really interested in these cases wants to read what user did not just look at pictures, but if it's too frustrating for you then it may contribute to you getting cancer. 

I find the new forum much faster than old, but I do agree there are many things about it that are not as good. While before the search feature was marginal, it is now worthless. We can find more on OCN using google search then forum search.


----------



## Avant Garde

doyll said:


> I think most people really interested in these cases wants to read what user did not just look at pictures, but if it's too frustrating for you then it may contribute to you getting cancer.
> 
> I find the new forum much faster than old, but I do agree there are many things about it that are not as good. While before the search feature was marginal, it is now worthless. We can find more on OCN using google search then forum search.


Yes but in the old dayzzz one could simply look at the gallery and find himself something interesting about this case, like some good mod (like the one you've posted about blocking unused space on top) and call it a day. Also, one could find some pretty intelligent configurations and try to mimic them or consult the owner. After all it's way easier to explain what are you doing when you back everything up with some photos.

For me, this new platform sucks big time, too crowded, missing key features and loading noticeably slower than previous one. All in all - several steps down.


----------



## doyll

Avant Garde said:


> Yes but in the old dayzzz one could simply look at the gallery and find himself something interesting about this case, like some good mod (like the one you've posted about blocking unused space on top) and call it a day. Also, one could find some pretty intelligent configurations and try to mimic them or consult the owner. After all it's way easier to explain what are you doing when you back everything up with some photos.
> 
> For me, this new platform sucks big time, too crowded, missing key features and loading noticeably slower than previous one. All in all - several steps down.


Maybe try a google image search of case you are looking for things about? I've found some good ideas that way before. I agree, images help explanations, but new forum makes it very hard to do a guide/tutorial with images because there is no easy way to add them into text, but on as attachments ... and no way to re-size them either.  

The change also botched up all the links in opening post to specific posts in thread .. so now the links open page the post is on if you are lucky.  I have a long ".* * Ways to Better Cooling; Airflow, Cooler & Fan Data..*" thread in air cooling that had about 50 topics with links to specific posts within the thread that now don't open the post the used to.  Just had to get me going, didn't you.  If the rest of my Friday is bad I'm blaming you for it.


----------



## Avant Garde

Oh, I feel so sorry about that


----------



## doyll

LOL Yeah, I' almost forget about it until you answered my post.


----------



## Xyrokz

Hi guys, looking at the Phankteks enthoo evolv itx for my next build. Is there any difference between the evolv itx and the new tempered glass version besides the bigger window? 

Also, anyone tried to slap a 280 mm rad at the front? I have a nemesis gts 280.


----------



## CptAsian

Avant Garde said:


> Where can I see photo gallery in this thread??


It is actually possible, but it's nowhere near as good as before. If you go to the subforum that contains this thread and hit this button on the far right that I circled in the image below, you'll get a popup window with attachment names. There are a few issues though, as you can't see thumbnails of the images, so you just have to click on all of them. The other big one is that's a list of attachments, so if the poster embeds an image from a third party site (like I'm doing in this post) to get a better-looking post, it won't appear in that popup window. But it's something.

If I can remember correctly, a gallery feature similar to what we had on Huddler is being considered/planned.


----------



## doyll

Xyrokz said:


> Hi guys, looking at the Phankteks enthoo evolv itx for my next build. Is there any difference between the evolv itx and the new tempered glass version besides the bigger window?
> 
> Also, anyone tried to slap a 280 mm rad at the front? I have a nemesis gts 280.


Evolv ITX comes with in my opinion worthess 200mm fan. Evolv ITX TG comes with 140mm fan that is a good fan. 

Sorry, I have no idea about 280mm rad in front, jus that spec says 240mm


----------



## Xyrokz

doyll said:


> Evolv ITX comes with in my opinion worthess 200mm fan. Evolv ITX TG comes with 140mm fan that is a good fan.
> 
> Sorry, I have no idea about 280mm rad in front, jus that spec says 240mm



The internals are the same? I like the look of the temper glass one but the screws on the side of it are a deal breaker for me so i wanted to go with the normal on with a window.



Ye, specs says 240, but i don't mind modding a bit to fit the 280. Just want to know if there is space for it.


Thanks for your answer!


----------



## Avant Garde

CptAsian said:


> It is actually possible, but it's nowhere near as good as before. If you go to the subforum that contains this thread and hit this button on the far right that I circled in the image below, you'll get a popup window with attachment names. There are a few issues though, as you can't see thumbnails of the images, so you just have to click on all of them. The other big one is that's a list of attachments, so if the poster embeds an image from a third party site (like I'm doing in this post) to get a better-looking post, it won't appear in that popup window. But it's something.
> 
> If I can remember correctly, a gallery feature similar to what we had on Huddler is being considered/planned.


Thanks Captain Asian!


----------



## PatrickCrowely

My first attempt @ hardline. My UT360 rad outlet somehow is bent, but ordered another one & pastel yellow Mayhems. I'm going to redo some of the bends over. I must say it wasn't bad as I thought it was, but it will be very addictive. 

Probably will re-do entire loop once new cards & socket come out.

EDIT: Forum won't let me upload photos, saying my token is expired.


----------



## CptAsian

PatrickCrowely said:


> My first attempt @ hardline. My UT360 rad outlet somehow is bent, but ordered another one & pastel yellow Mayhems. I'm going to redo some of the bends over. I must say it wasn't bad as I thought it was, but it will be very addictive.
> 
> Probably will re-do entire loop once new cards & socket come out.
> 
> EDIT: Forum won't let me upload photos, saying my token is expired.


If you upload your photos to a third party image hosting site like Imgur, you can just use the


Code:


[img][/img]

 tags around the direct image link. The images also won't be added as attachments, so your post will look a bit nicer.


----------



## PatrickCrowely

First attempt at hardline. My UT60 out port got bent, so it is slanted. Ordered new one. This case has been good to me over the years & is so easy to work with... 

Houses a 6950X, 3 GTX 980TI, 4 Samsung SSD's, 1 Samsung M.2, Alphacool UT60 360, XT45 280 & ST30 120. 

I was hoping they came out with a version 2 of this case....


----------



## PatrickCrowely

CptAsian said:


> If you upload your photos to a third party image hosting site like Imgur, you can just use the
> 
> 
> Code:
> 
> 
> [img][/img]
> 
> tags around the direct image link. The images also won't be added as attachments, so your post will look a bit nicer.


Thanks...


----------



## crafty35a

Finally have my build more or less finished, thought I'd share a couple pictures:


----------



## crafty35a

Finally have my build more or less finished, thought I'd share a couple pictures:


----------



## doyll

crafty35a said:


> Finally have my build more or less finished, thought I'd share a couple pictures:


Looks good. :thumb:
What are the specs? I'm guessing Thermalright TRUE Spirit 140 Power cooler with TY-147A rear exhaust and coaoler fans. and new stock no model case fan that uses PH-F140SP housing w/ PH-F140MP impeller??


----------



## ciarlatano

crafty35a said:


> Finally have my build more or less finished, thought I'd share a couple pictures:


Nice and clean looking. :thumb:


----------



## petmic10

Just ordered a Noctua NHD15S to replace a failing H100i v2. I considered briefly going custom loop but ultimately did not want to deal with the maintenance. 

Also ordered a Noctua NF-A15 HS-PWM Chromax.black.swap premium-grade quiet 140mm fan and Chromax heat sink covers in white. Should be here tomorrow. Going to take this opportunity to change my case setup. I have an Evolv ATX and for some reason I removed the stock Phanteks fans because I became hypnotized by the LED craze. 

This is a current picture. It should look drastically different by the weekend.


----------



## AlphaC

Have you people seen the P350X?
http://www.phanteks.com/Eclipse-P350X.html


I'm hoping they make a slightly wider one (this one has 160mm CPU clearance) with no RGB or glass , more iO (USB / USB 3./1 gen 2 type C) , and more airflow (ala Enthoo Pro M) at the same 17.7" height. The Phanteks Enthoo Pro M is still a bit taller at 18.9" compared to the Meshify C which is ~ 17.8" tall and has 172mm CPU cooler clearance.


----------



## crafty35a

doyll said:


> Looks good. :thumb:
> What are the specs? I'm guessing Thermalright TRUE Spirit 140 Power cooler with TY-147A rear exhaust and coaoler fans. and new stock no model case fan that uses PH-F140SP housing w/ PH-F140MP impeller??


Yep, good eye. I didn't closely inspect the front fans, but I think that's what all the newer Pro M's come with, right? So I think you're right.


----------



## d0mmie

I did this build a little while back. More pictures on imgur album.

https://imgur.com/a/cyFELaN

Specs:
Phanteks Enthoo Luxe TG Edition case
Cooler Master Vertical Graphics Card Holder Kit
Corsair ML Pro fans 120/140mm
Intel i7 7700K CPU
Kingston HyperX Predator 2x8GB 3200MHz DDR4 DIMM CL16 (HX432C16PB3K2/16) RAM
ASUS Z270 TUF Mark.1 motherboard
ASUS ROG Poseidon GTX 1080 Ti GPU
Corsair HX1000 PSU
Samsung SSD 850 Pro 512GB
Samsung SSD SM951 128GB


----------



## PatrickCrowely

Got a new 360 rad on the way, as the outlet is bent throws off tube angle. My first attempt at hardline.


----------



## Jared2608

Built my new rig on Thursday, I got the Enthoo Pro Special edition. It was such a pleasure to build in, plenty of space to work and the cable management was simple. I've tried taking pics of it but they don't come out very nicely with the LEDS.


----------



## petmic10

Installed my Noctua NH-D15S over the weekend with white Chromax accents and a Chromax NF-A15 HS PWM fan. Replaced a dying H100i V2 cooler. What a difference, fan noise is way down. Noctua's Chromax line is a homerun.


----------



## PureBlackFire

Phanteks Evolv X https://twitter.com/hardwarecanucks/status/1003752152223764480

been trying to post the images. gotta say, this site is damn near unusable, hence my absence.


----------



## ErrantPigeon

PureBlackFire said:


> Phanteks Evolv X https://twitter.com/hardwarecanucks/status/1003752152223764480
> 
> been trying to post the images. gotta say, this site is damn near unusable, hence my absence.


They (HardwareCanucks) have now posted their video of it as well: 




Small price bump. Looks like it will have quite a few changes compared to the Evolv ATX TG:
- Better front air intake and roof exhaust
- Space for an mini-ITX board in the roof
- Obligatory vertical GPU mount (that also doubles as spot for the mITX GPU via riser cable)
- Cable covers in the back, including SSD mounting points
- Sealed frame for the glass panels (air/sound isolation and screws to lock doors in place for transport)
- Built-in RGB strips in the front and the PSU shroud
- Modular hard drive sleds for lots of HDDs, if desired, in the main compartment
- Fill and drain ports for custom loops
- Incorporating one of the common "hacks" for the top radiator to avoid back flow of hot air
- Not called out explicitly, but looks like it will have triple 140mm fan mounts for the front (this was possible before if you modded it a bit)
- Added 10mm in height (about half an inch)

Quite an extensive list, good to see a genuine iteration on a well-liked design. From the side view, it also looked like the space between the front panel and the fan filter has increase - looks like almost an inch now. This will aid air intake more than the extra area, I suspect, and help a fair bit with the front panel "choking" front radiators.

Also interesting to see that they basically took three popular hacks (larger top air vents, spaced out front panel, sealed off radiator roof mount) and integrated them into the case. I wonder if they will make an mATX and mITX variant of it down the line (the Evolv ITX TG refresh was a bit meh and misses out on the Evolv build quality, I find).

Finally, the video also shows off a prototype of the Eclipse variant of the same case and a few new fans, including a 30mm thick fans. Interesting: triple 30mm thick 140mm fans are certainly a way to deal with the solid front without adding (much) noise. Got to respect them for that: they have a design they like and they're committed to engineer it until it works instead of slapping a mesh front on it.


----------



## mav451

Yeah as nice as that case looks, seeing Phanteks come out with a new fan (with barely any fanfare - har har) really caught me off guard. I already run Phantek fans as my intake fans, so I know they're good performers. But extra thick 140mm fans being sold mainstream is definitely a revelation and I'm really interested in how they'll perform.


----------



## doyll

Almost all the things I / we have been telling them would improve the case as well mods and changes we've been doing seem to have been addressed in new Evolv X have been addressed. :wubsmiley
Sure glad to see they are listening to us. Hopefully I'll get my hand on some of the new fans to test.


----------



## PureBlackFire

that P600 looks even more interesting to me. fabric mesh, removable panels. I wonder what price point it'll hit. probably $120 or something.


----------



## doyll

Their new MetallicGear Neo and Neo Mini cases look interesting too, as do new Revolt X dual system PSUs. If all goes according to plan to be out early 3rd quarter this year. 
http://www.bit-tech.net/news/tech/cases/phanteks-reveals-evolv-x-case-and-more/1/

New P600 prototype does look very interesting.


----------



## S4vant

Wonder if there will be any retrofit possibilities from the new Evolv X to the old Evolv ATX TG.


----------



## ErrantPigeon

doyll said:


> Their new MetallicGear Neo and Neo Mini cases look interesting too, as do new Revolt X dual system PSUs. If all goes according to plan to be out early 3rd quarter this year.
> http://www.bit-tech.net/news/tech/cases/phanteks-reveals-evolv-x-case-and-more/1/
> 
> New P600 prototype does look very interesting.


Oh, these are some nice pictures of the Evolv X, too. Just noticed a nice touch: the front part of the glass door has a thin strip that looks like aluminium matching the rest of the exterior. That fixes one of the complaints I had with the Evolv TG - that the doors don't quite match the lighter variants of the case (silver and anthracite). Additionally, it actually means you can open/close the door without leaving fingerprints on the glass.

The MetallicGear cases look interesting, too, though they remind me a lot of the Rajintek cases. The only odd thing is the big logo embossed on the front panel - Phanteks is usually a lot more restrained about their branding (something I quite like).


----------



## ciarlatano

S4vant said:


> Wonder if there will be any retrofit possibilities from the new Evolv X to the old Evolv ATX TG.


I was wondering the same. Would love to be able to grab individual parts for retrofit.


----------



## PureBlackFire

one thing I'm curious about, which admittedly might not be a big thing. can the HDD mounts be slid over to allow mounting a radiator AND the use of hard drives together? that was always a silly restriction and I should hope they haven't brought this over to a new case.


----------



## AlphaC

PureBlackFire said:


> that P600 looks even more interesting to me. fabric mesh, removable panels. I wonder what price point it'll hit. probably $120 or something.



The fabric mesh should be less noisy compared to a metal mesh IMO , so long as the frame is such that there is no flapping of the fabric


----------



## kevindd992002

ErrantPigeon said:


> They (HardwareCanucks) have now posted their video of it as well: https://youtu.be/RX0wMcZO0-A
> 
> Small price bump. Looks like it will have quite a few changes compared to the Evolv ATX TG:
> - Better front air intake and roof exhaust
> - Space for an mini-ITX board in the roof
> - Obligatory vertical GPU mount (that also doubles as spot for the mITX GPU via riser cable)
> - Cable covers in the back, including SSD mounting points
> - Sealed frame for the glass panels (air/sound isolation and screws to lock doors in place for transport)
> - Built-in RGB strips in the front and the PSU shroud
> - Modular hard drive sleds for lots of HDDs, if desired, in the main compartment
> - Fill and drain ports for custom loops
> - Incorporating one of the common "hacks" for the top radiator to avoid back flow of hot air
> - Not called out explicitly, but looks like it will have triple 140mm fan mounts for the front (this was possible before if you modded it a bit)
> - Added 10mm in height (about half an inch)
> 
> Quite an extensive list, good to see a genuine iteration on a well-liked design. From the side view, it also looked like the space between the front panel and the fan filter has increase - looks like almost an inch now. This will aid air intake more than the extra area, I suspect, and help a fair bit with the front panel "choking" front radiators.
> 
> Also interesting to see that they basically took three popular hacks (larger top air vents, spaced out front panel, sealed off radiator roof mount) and integrated them into the case. I wonder if they will make an mATX and mITX variant of it down the line (the Evolv ITX TG refresh was a bit meh and misses out on the Evolv build quality, I find).
> 
> Finally, the video also shows off a prototype of the Eclipse variant of the same case and a few new fans, including a 30mm thick fans. Interesting: triple 30mm thick 140mm fans are certainly a way to deal with the solid front without adding (much) noise. Got to respect them for that: they have a design they like and they're committed to engineer it until it works instead of slapping a mesh front on it.


Why did he say in the video that the old Evolv case also had a "swing" glass door? This was an idea on the old Evolv but was never implemented.


----------



## scracy

kevindd992002 said:


> Why did he say in the video that the old Evolv case also had a "swing" glass door? This was an idea on the old Evolv but was never implemented.


He got it wrong, the original Evolve (non TG) had a hinged door


----------



## kevindd992002

scracy said:


> kevindd992002 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Why did he say in the video that the old Evolv case also had a "swing" glass door? This was an idea on the old Evolv but was never implemented.
> 
> 
> 
> He got it wrong, the original Evolve (non TG) had a hinged door /forum/images/smilies/smile.gif
Click to expand...

Ohh, I see. I didn't know that. I want the Evolv ATX badly though.


----------



## HippoLOL

I contacted Phanteks on FB for more info:



> Thanks for your interest in the new Evolv X. If you are using 140mm fans the case supports a 420mm rad in the front and a 280mm in the top. The radiator clearance for thickness is 95mm in the front and no real limit in the top when using low/normal height RAM. If you are using 120mm fans you can go up to dual 360mm using 30mm radiators. If you use a 360 in the front and a 240 in the top the clearance in the front is 95mm and the top is pretty much unlimited. Please check our website when we release the Evolv X. You can then download the manual for more information and details about the Evolv X.


Asked them if you can have the ports facing down on the case for 360 rads:



> Yes. Same goes for 420 or any other size


----------



## kevindd992002

HippoLOL said:


> I contacted Phanteks on FB for more info:
> 
> 
> 
> Asked them if you can have the ports facing down on the case for 360 rads:


Did you contact them via FB messenger? Their email support really sucks!


----------



## HippoLOL

kevindd992002 said:


> Did you contact them via FB messenger? Their email support really sucks!


Yes via FB Messenger.


----------



## Amhro

Guys, is there any "easy fix" for the front panel of P400S?


----------



## mAs81

Amhro said:


> Guys, is there any "easy fix" for the front panel of P400S?



If you mean something like the front panel washer mod for the Evolv then, to my knowledge , no - there isn't one that does not involve a dremel that is..


Should you decide to get your hand dirty tho , I found the following video very informative and helpful,back when I was considering modding my 350D..


Spoiler












It's for a different case,but the principal is the same ..


----------



## asdkj1740

doyll said:


> Their new MetallicGear Neo and Neo Mini cases look interesting too, as do new Revolt X dual system PSUs. If all goes according to plan to be out early 3rd quarter this year.
> http://www.bit-tech.net/news/tech/cases/phanteks-reveals-evolv-x-case-and-more/1/
> 
> New P600 prototype does look very interesting.


this is like the subbrand of phanteks in china: primo
http://www.i-primo.com/index.php?c=product&id=30

lots of users in china report that these cases are bad in bulid quality... for example the hdd vibration problem is insane on these primo cases, and the edges are very sharp.
hopefully the new international rebranded MetallicGear has got these fixed.


----------



## pez

I've been wanting to do a dual system build without going with something so large as the Enthoo XL, so that Evolv X looks superrrrr attractive to me. As much as I'm enjoying my case, I believe it may be time to head back on over to Phanteks. The question is, how good will that specialized PSU be.


----------



## ciarlatano

pez said:


> I've been wanting to do a dual system build without going with something so large as the Enthoo XL, so that Evolv X looks superrrrr attractive to me. As much as I'm enjoying my case, I believe it may be time to head back on over to Phanteks. The question is, how good will that specialized PSU be.


Good question. When Phanteks was first looking at releasing a PSU they were working with High Power. I know there is a relation between the companies, but don't know if that is still the plan.


----------



## doyll

pez said:


> I've been wanting to do a dual system build without going with something so large as the Enthoo XL, so that Evolv X looks superrrrr attractive to me. As much as I'm enjoying my case, I believe it may be time to head back on over to Phanteks. The question is, how good will that specialized PSU be.


Good question. If anything like their PSU splitter used in Mini XL DS it will basically be powering up everything but motherboard for both systems when one system is on. Everyting on Molex, Sata, etc. powers up when one sytem is started because all cables but motherboard cables are common to both systems .. I was going to build a dual system in my mini XL DS until I found out. I wanted each to be independent of other, so if one had problems there was no way it could effect other as long as PSU didn't fail. 

When Mini XL came out I was hoping there would be an ATX version. Case is perfect size for ATX. Even photoshopped the back and some interior views


----------



## petmic10

Bitwit posted their video of the Evolv X.


----------



## Amhro

mAs81 said:


> If you mean something like the front panel washer mod for the Evolv then, to my knowledge , no - there isn't one that does not involve a dremel that is..
> 
> 
> Should you decide to get your hand dirty tho , I found the following video very informative and helpful,back when I was considering modding my 350D..
> 
> 
> Spoiler
> 
> 
> 
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QvypJFvsPW0
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's for a different case,but the principal is the same ..


I meant something to fix the poor airflow :/


----------



## ciarlatano

Amhro said:


> I meant something to fix the poor airflow :/


Unfortunately, the only easy fix I know is to move the build into a Pro M.


----------



## doyll

Amhro said:


> I meant something to fix the poor airflow :/


Maybe get someone to make front mount spacers for P400? If front cover was moved forward 6.2mm it would create a vent 6.2mm wide all the way around front of case. 

That would create approx. 82 sq cm of additional front vent area to the stock 74sq cm .. more than doubling front vent area. 

Silverstone and DEMCIflex make magnetic mounting filters that could then be put on fan mounting panel to filter airflow into case. 

I have a dimensional drawing of extension pin.


----------



## EvFan123

pez said:


> I've been wanting to do a dual system build without going with something so large as the Enthoo XL, so that Evolv X looks superrrrr attractive to me. As much as I'm enjoying my case, I believe it may be time to head back on over to Phanteks. The question is, how good will that specialized PSU be.


The power supply is made by Seasonic (based on their prime lineup) - https://www.tomshardware.co.uk/phanteks-revolt-x-psus,news-57701.html


----------



## zoneuk

Evolv X looks like a very nice case, I think they should have improved the front panel a little (more then 2 usb and a rest button)


----------



## kevindd992002

Any speculations as to how to mount a reservoir in the Evolv X now that they have those sliding covers that don't have any holes? Or do you just remove those? In the Bitwit video above, I'm not sure how the reservoir is mounted even though the sliding covers are preserved. Mounted on the front rad, I guess?


----------



## eXistencelies

kevindd992002 said:


> Any speculations as to how to mount a reservoir in the Evolv X now that they have those sliding covers that don't have any holes? Or do you just remove those? In the Bitwit video above, I'm not sure how the reservoir is mounted even though the sliding covers are preserved. Mounted on the front rad, I guess?


They have rad mounts you can mount to the holes on the radiator.


----------



## smithydan

http://metallicgear.com is basically up.

Was eyeing these long time, though i-primo version has a better looking tg glass design.


----------



## PatrickCrowely

Gotta have that Evolve X. The case is amazing & the price is even better!


----------



## doyll

PatrickCrowely said:


> Gotta have that Evolve X. The case is amazing & the price is even better!


While I've seen a few guesses about what it's price will be, has Phanteks said what it will be?


----------



## springs113

doyll said:


> While I've seen a few guesses about what it's price will be, has Phanteks said what it will be?


$199 USD...is the msrp.


----------



## AlphaC

smithydan said:


> http://metallicgear.com is basically up.
> 
> Was eyeing these long time, though i-primo version has a better looking tg glass design.



That site is terrible, there's spelling mistakes and the favicon is not changed from Drupal logo. Not to mention the main page doesn't show what they're selling on the top part of it.


----------



## doyll

springs113 said:


> $199 USD...is the msrp.


 I could post " $49.99 USD...is the msrp." But that does not make it so. 
A couple of people at Computex were saying "around the $200 USD mark." But I have seen nothing in print from Phanteks giving us a MSRP. While I'm not saying you are wrong I am asking for you to please supply us a link to Phanteks saying that is the price.


----------



## Abaidor

AlphaC said:


> That site is terrible, there's spelling mistakes and the favicon is not changed from Drupal logo. Not to mention the main page doesn't show what they're selling on the top part of it.


LoL what a half-assed job with the site. How can this be published like that is beyond me. I am into web design & development and seeing things like this makes me thing that a volunteer in the company offered to make a site with no experience or any knowledge of either Design or Code. 


BTW - The Evolve X is on my list for my son's PC!


----------



## haszek

doyll said:


> springs113 said:
> 
> 
> 
> $199 USD...is the msrp.
> 
> 
> 
> I could post " $49.99 USD...is the msrp." But that does not make it so.
> A couple of people at Computex were saying "around the $200 USD mark." But I have seen nothing in print from Phanteks giving us a MSRP. While I'm not saying you are wrong I am asking for you to please supply us a link to Phanteks saying that is the price.
Click to expand...

Bitwit says it is going to launch at msrp $199, not guessing or saying around 200. So it's closer to assume phanteks allowed him to say that.


----------



## springs113

haszek said:


> Bitwit says it is going to launch at msrp $199, not guessing or saying around 200. So it's closer to assume phanteks allowed him to say that.


 He's not the only 1 either. I cant remember who said it but it was stated several times that the cost would be $10 more than the O.G. Evolv.


----------



## pez

ciarlatano said:


> Good question. When Phanteks was first looking at releasing a PSU they were working with High Power. I know there is a relation between the companies, but don't know if that is still the plan.





doyll said:


> Good question. If anything like their PSU splitter used in Mini XL DS it will basically be powering up everything but motherboard for both systems when one system is on. Everyting on Molex, Sata, etc. powers up when one sytem is started because all cables but motherboard cables are common to both systems .. I was going to build a dual system in my mini XL DS until I found out. I wanted each to be independent of other, so if one had problems there was no way it could effect other as long as PSU didn't fail.
> 
> When Mini XL came out I was hoping there would be an ATX version. Case is perfect size for ATX. Even photoshopped the back and some interior views





EvFan123 said:


> The power supply is made by Seasonic (based on their prime lineup) - https://www.tomshardware.co.uk/phanteks-revolt-x-psus,news-57701.html



That could be very good indeed...hmmm...I'm excited now .



doyll said:


> I could post " $49.99 USD...is the msrp." But that does not make it so.
> A couple of people at Computex were saying "around the $200 USD mark." But I have seen nothing in print from Phanteks giving us a MSRP. While I'm not saying you are wrong I am asking for you to please supply us a link to Phanteks saying that is the price.


Well both videos relayed '$199' via Phanteks....if it stays under $250, I'll be more than happy to purchase at that price.


----------



## doyll

Just got my hands on new Eclipes P350X. Don't have time right now to really check it out but at a glace I like it. Much better front venting than before.


----------



## doyll

I'm liking this Eclipse P350X. Very well done for an entry level case.


----------



## doyll

pez said:


> That could be very good indeed...hmmm...I'm excited now .
> 
> Well both videos relayed '$199' via Phanteks....if it stays under $250, I'll be more than happy to purchase at that price.


To change Enthoo Mini XL would require back and motherboard tray modifications, but it is doable. Just need a case of similar size to canibalize back and motherboard tray from, then cut and fit into Mini XL. 

I agree, new Evolv X looks very nice. Almost everything we've wanted in our Evolv ATX has been added and even some things not mentioned. :thumb:


----------



## viperguy212

Anyone planning on swapping their current Evolv ATX out with an Evolv X? It does look damn promising with a bunch of QoL upgrades. 

Rad support looks a lot nicer too.


----------



## ilmazzo

Ordered a few things hoping they'll arrive next week when I'll be on my summer holidays before leaving for Tuscany coast.....gonna update the loyal FX8350 rig that cost me 150€ three years ago from a spanish ebayer (great bargain)

Enthoo Pro M Acrylic
Ryzen 2600X
Asrock Taichi X470 
2x8GB Trident Z RGB CL14
SSD MX500 500GB
3x140 SP White Led

Will keep from my current gaming rig:

Fury Nitro OC
Antec HCP Platinum 850
Noctua dual fan 120mm heatspreader (ugh, noctua's fans color is what it is, will replace them later with something white)
Scythe 5,25'' rheobus (but if asrock bios and fans control will keep it up I can even remove it at all)

The theme I've in mind is an external white digital camo wrap, something even on the bottom internal cover of the psu and maybe some wrap on the plastics of the taichi but I'm not sure (you know, reselling or warranty don't think will be happy with it)....the rest will be matt black and the white leds will give the right bling look without being too much excessive or becoming a christmas tree....hope I will have no problems setting up leds/fans without filling my fresh win10 install with apps garbage.....

Here some wuick photos when I was swapping the EOM fans in the case with the 3 phanteks sp 140 led fans and a preview of the camo vynil I received from Uk

 


imgbox gently shifted the orientation of the photo for dont-know-which-reason but, ok.... it's free.....


----------



## doyll

ilmazzo said:


> Ordered a few things hoping they'll arrive next week when I'll be on my summer holidays before leaving for Tuscany coast.....gonna update the loyal FX8350 rig that cost me 150€ three years ago from a spanish ebayer (great bargain)
> 
> Enthoo Pro M Acrylic
> Ryzen 2600X
> Asrock Taichi X470
> 2x8GB Trident Z RGB CL14
> SSD MX500 500GB
> 3x140 SP White Led
> 
> Will keep from my current gaming rig:
> 
> Fury Nitro OC
> Antec HCP Platinum 850
> Noctua dual fan 120mm heatspreader (ugh, noctua's fans color is what it is, will replace them later with something white)
> Scythe 5,25'' rheobus (but if asrock bios and fans control will keep it up I can even remove it at all)
> 
> The theme I've in mind is an external white digital camo wrap, something even on the bottom internal cover of the psu and maybe some wrap on the plastics of the taichi but I'm not sure (you know, reselling or warranty don't think will be happy with it)....the rest will be matt black and the white leds will give the right bling look without being too much excessive or becoming a christmas tree....hope I will have no problems setting up leds/fans without filling my fresh win10 install with apps garbage.....
> 
> Here some wuick photos when I was swapping the EOM fans in the case with the 3 phanteks sp 140 led fans and a preview of the camo vynil I received from Uk
> 
> 
> 
> 
> imgbox gently shifted the orientation of the photo for dont-know-which-reason but, ok.... it's free.....


Sounds like you thought it out well. 

Curious as to why you are switching the included case fans for PH-F140SP LED. As you probably know the included cases fans are no longer PH-F140SP but PH-F140SP fan housing and motor with PH-F140MP impeller .. which are very nice fans. If you hadn't already got new fans I would have suggested mabye getting 140mm Halos RGB LED spacer rings to use with stock fans instead of new fans and have saved some money.  Maybe because the stock case fans had black impellers?

Look forward to seeing how it all comes together. :thumb:


----------



## ilmazzo

Well, everything started when I realized that in Italy phanteks fans distributors are more rare than a sober irish guy during saint patrick's day

So I just went the full route: 3 new fans with led built in instead of getting another fan and 3 halos, think they will serve me well too and tbh I did not know it but, ok.

Sure, in two weeks I think I'll be at a good point and come back here: in these days I will try with the vynil on the case to be ready when the cpu mobo ram will drop on my nerd desk.....cheers mate


----------



## doyll

What Noctua cooler are you using? 

I'm quite partial to Thermalright TRUE Spirit 140 Power's performance at low noise levels. It tall and wide, but it will fit in your case on your motherboard no problem and amazon.it has it for EUR 69.87. It's funny, in USA it's $50. No idea why it's so much more over here.


----------



## doyll

ilmazzo said:


> Well, everything started when I realized that in Italy phanteks fans distributors are more rare than a sober irish guy during saint patrick's day
> 
> So I just went the full route: 3 new fans with led built in instead of getting another fan and 3 halos, think they will serve me well too and tbh I did not know it but, ok.
> 
> Sure, in two weeks I think I'll be at a good point and come back here: in these days I will try with the vynil on the case to be ready when the cpu mobo ram will drop on my nerd desk.....cheers mate


Makes sense to me. :thumb:


----------



## nycgtr

For those with the Matx evolv variant modmymods is doing runs for the top and front. The top is probably the most helpful mod you can get.

https://modmymods.com/catalogsearch/result/index/?pc_chassis_compatibility=704&q=evolv


----------



## doyll

nycgtr said:


> For those with the Matx evolv variant modmymods is doing runs for the top and front. The top is probably the most helpful mod you can get.
> 
> https://modmymods.com/catalogsearch/result/index/?pc_chassis_compatibility=704&q=evolv


Interesting, but I like the way Phanteks re-worked the panels in the not yet released Evolv X. I've heard the panels will also fit existing ATX cases. They need to do similar panels for Evolv mATX.


----------



## mAs81

nycgtr said:


> For those with the Matx evolv variant modmymods is doing runs for the top and front. The top is probably the most helpful mod you can get.
> 
> https://modmymods.com/catalogsearch/result/index/?pc_chassis_compatibility=704&q=evolv


Nice :thumb:

I did the front panel spacer mod in my mATX and front airflow improved a lot , but I wouldn't mind getting one of them panels..

Perhaps if I decide to put a radiator on top , I might go for one


----------



## ilmazzo

wrapped front panel ... first time with wrapping and I'm a noooooob but, okey.....


----------



## areksoo

viperguy212 said:


> Anyone planning on swapping their current Evolv ATX out with an Evolv X? It does look damn promising with a bunch of QoL upgrades.
> 
> Rad support looks a lot nicer too.


I am. I'm looking to build a separate streaming/media server PC, so my jaw dropped seeing the Evolv X. Though I was hoping the Evolv X would have room to use their Phanteks Power Splitter (as I want to reuse my PSU and keep the hidden 2 drive cages), but I doubt it as the Revolve X PSU is going to launch around the same time and I would guess they want to push that.


----------



## mAs81

ilmazzo said:


> wrapped front panel ... first time with wrapping and I'm a noooooob but, okey.....


Nicely done - urban camo is the best camo


----------



## doyll

viperguy212 said:


> Anyone planning on swapping their current Evolv ATX out with an Evolv X? It does look damn promising with a bunch of QoL upgrades.
> 
> Rad support looks a lot nicer too.


I'm hoping to move from ATX to X mostly because of other features rather than more airflow. My ATX's airflow is no problem (air cooled system). The new cable management features is biggest reason .. dual system would be nice so I could use low power draw mITX system most of the time and only power up the bigger / more powerful system as needed.


----------



## ilmazzo

This morning, 4am.... i could do the first boot in win after mounting everything in the case after the pre build test on the bench table.



Now I need to figure out why the two front fans don’t have electricity at all (hooked to mobo through a y cable) while the rear exhaust fan works great...and reinstall everything of course

Will post complete picture when closed the case.

So far I love it!


----------



## doyll

ilmazzo said:


> This morning, 4am.... i could do the first boot in win after mounting everything in the case after the pre build test on the bench table.
> 
> 
> 
> Now I need to figure out why the two front fans don’t have electricity at all (hooked to mobo through a y cable) while the rear exhaust fan works great...and reinstall everything of course
> 
> Will post complete picture when closed the case.
> 
> So far I love it!


Best part of 4AM is computer works. I'm sure when you check things out you will find the front fan problem is something simple .. quite possibly missed due to sleep deprivation.


----------



## Gilles3000

ilmazzo said:


> Now I need to figure out why the two front fans don’t have electricity at all (hooked to mobo through a y cable)


You might want to check all the pins, both male and female on the Y cable, I recently ordered 2 (admittedly rather cheap ones) and both had multiple loose pins.


----------



## DarthBaggins

It's the splitter you're using, sometimes there are bad ones or one's that go bad really easily. I normally recommend the ones SilverStone makes, since they make 4pin/PWM splitters that work beautifully and come pre-sleeved


----------



## ciarlatano

DarthBaggins said:


> It's the splitter you're using, sometimes there are bad ones or one's that go bad really easily. I normally recommend the ones SilverStone makes, since they make 4pin/PWM splitters that work beautifully and come pre-sleeved


Agreed that it is likely the splitter.

But, really, I just wanted to add that Silverstone makes a lot of very nice cables and adapters. I have used a lot of them through the years and the quality is always top notch.


----------



## pez

I have some of those Silverstone splitters just in a drawer because they're so nice and so consistent for me. They were a lifesaver in my ITX Ncase build.


----------



## PureBlackFire

ciarlatano said:


> Good question. When Phanteks was first looking at releasing a PSU they were working with High Power. I know there is a relation between the companies, but don't know if that is still the plan.


their psus will be based on the seasonic prime and focus series.


----------



## doyll

PureBlackFire said:


> their psus will be based on the seasonic prime and focus series.


Could you give us the source of that info please?


----------



## nyk20z3

Recent updates to the Luxe TG build....


Top Hardware Labs Nemesis L Series 420 radiator with triple Phanteks PH-F140MP fans -










Koolance Dual Bay Reservoir with dual Alphacool D5 Pumps Sleeved - 










MOD-ONE MDPC-X Seasonic Prime Custom PSU Cables -


----------



## Doubletap1911

I was a fan of the original Evolv mATX in large part due to the rear facing 5.25 optical bay.

With the Evolv X having an mITX panel in the same place, does anyone see any reason why they couldn't mount an optical drive in that space? Hopefully Phanteks will make a proper bracket to allow that as it seems like it would be at least as popular an option as adding a second system.

That would seal it up for me.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Don't see them doing that, the majority had pretty much ditched having a optical drive internally. I rarely use my external as it is since I can just put the media on a thumb drive (media that I need and use)


----------



## doyll

Having an optical drive is something peeps using DVD/Blu-Ray rentals need. Not everyone can on-line stream movies, espeially if they want hi-quality.


----------



## ilmazzo

doyll said:


> Having an optical drive is something peeps using DVD/Blu-Ray rentals need. Not everyone can on-line stream movies, espeially if they want hi-quality.


I share a external usb dvd writer across my pcs
Never going back to having a opt inside my cases


----------



## Doubletap1911

DarthBaggins said:


> Don't see them doing that, the majority had pretty much ditched having a optical drive internally. I rarely use my external as it is since I can just put the media on a thumb drive (media that I need and use)





doyll said:


> Having an optical drive is something peeps using DVD/Blu-Ray rentals need. Not everyone can on-line stream movies, espeially if they want hi-quality.


Optical drives are not a good look on modern systems which is why I liked the read facing mount on the original Evolv mATX - but once the TG version was announced, the original cases just disappeared from the US market.

I have a huge CD collection and I buy a lot of used CDs.

I'd rather have a full size, internal drive for ripping as, in the past at least, they tend to be more accurate.

Regardless, there is no reason a full size optical drive shouldn't fit in the spot they reserve for the mITX back panel. 

If they don't make a bracket, I'm sure someone will but I'd be happy to pay $20-30 for an adapter.


----------



## andrewmp6

Only reason i can still see for the ODD is fan controllers and things like that.As far as dvd/blu-ray drives you can get them usb now and they work just as good.A lot of the prebuilts are going away from ODD also.


----------



## doyll

ilmazzo said:


> I share a external usb dvd writer across my pcs
> Never going back to having a opt inside my cases


I use an external USB optical myself on 4 of my 6 systems for the rare occasions I need one. The 2 systems that optical media is used on regularly have internal drives. I find it much easier to open and change CD/DVD Blu-ray in internal than USB external drive. It's all about individual tastes and needs. There are good reasons to use internal just as there are good reasons to use external or none at all. I have an extensive DVD library that requires optical drive in media system .. as well as an extensive music library on CDs of which most are on HDD with original CDs filed away. 



Doubletap1911 said:


> Optical drives are not a good look on modern systems which is why I liked the read facing mount on the original Evolv mATX - but once the TG version was announced, the original cases just disappeared from the US market.
> 
> I have a huge CD collection and I buy a lot of used CDs.
> 
> I'd rather have a full size, internal drive for ripping as, in the past at least, they tend to be more accurate.
> 
> Regardless, there is no reason a full size optical drive shouldn't fit in the spot they reserve for the mITX back panel.
> 
> If they don't make a bracket, I'm sure someone will but I'd be happy to pay $20-30 for an adapter.


Very good example for rational use of internal optical drive. :thumb:

But I much prefer the look of a 5.25" optical drive to an external one plugged and setting on top or hanging off the side of case where they fall when trying to open/load with one hand. Blank out the logos / labels on many of the full size and definitely the half bay size models and they are hardly noticeable. 



andrewmp6 said:


> Only reason i can still see for the ODD is fan controllers and things like that.As far as dvd/blu-ray drives you can get them usb now and they work just as good.A lot of the prebuilts are going away from ODD also.


I think most people seriously into using an accessory controller for fans and other things use aquaero 5 or new aquaero 6 (with even more functionality) with the LT model doing everything the 5.25 panel mounting models does except have an external screen and a few buttons .. but aquareo controllers do so many things it would be near impossible (maybe impossible) to setup with only 5.25 panel screen and controls. 

Pros and cons to using internal versus external USB optical drives answered above.


----------



## Doubletap1911

You all make very good points but let me summarize why they need to make an adapter:

1. It would be unrealistic and counter productive to advocate for an optical drive to be added to most modern cases because it would ruin the aesthetic.

2. Phanteks already has both the space and the opening on the back of the case.

3. Phanteks has already built a case with an optical drive in the exact same location - this isn't without precedent.

4. A second system is a pretty exotic add-on even for hard core enthusiasts.

6. Making that space more versatile only makes the product appeal to more buyers

7. From what I can tell, the only thing that's needed is a bracket to screw into the rear fan location and hang the drive in the right place (and maybe a bezel to fill in the extra space between the optical drive and the motherboard opening.

8. If Phanteks doesn't do it, someone else will.


----------



## pez

I never thought of that idea, but I'd welcome that. I'm more interested in utilizing a second system, but a 5.25" bay option is actually pretty cool. I originally intended on doing a 'hidden' ODD with the Pro M I had, but I just never got around to it. That and I think I discovered something that would have ruined my aesthetic inside the case.


----------



## paskowitz

If I want a second system, I'll put it in a second case. There are plenty of ITX or HTPC options than can be easily tucked away.


----------



## ciarlatano

paskowitz said:


> If I want a second system, I'll put it in a second case. There are plenty of ITX or HTPC options than can be easily tucked away.


Agreed. I just don't get the two systems in one case thing.


----------



## Gilles3000

ciarlatano said:


> Agreed. I just don't get the two systems in one case thing.


There are a few niche applications I can think of, but whether its worth it for a mainstream case manufacturer like Phanteks to soak that much effort into this feature... 

Well its hard to say, maybe if we had a Phanteks rep they could weigh in on how well the dual system cases and accessories are selling.


----------



## ilmazzo

I closed the case to have an overview, even if it is not yet finished (some refinements in cables, etc etc)


----------



## ilmazzo

Running 2600x stock and 3200cl14 ram atm


----------



## mAs81

Looks boss , kudos :thumb:


----------



## areksoo

Gilles3000 said:


> There are a few niche applications I can think of, but whether its worth it for a mainstream case manufacturer like Phanteks to soak that much effort into this feature...
> 
> Well its hard to say, maybe if we had a Phanteks rep they could weigh in on how well the dual system cases and accessories are selling.


I don't think they put much effort into it. It works the exact same way as the Enthoo Elite case. Also, I think they were more motivated to makes the ITX bracket, so they can sell more of the Revolt X PSU that conveniently launches at the same time. I wonder if they do some sort of combo discount.


----------



## CptAsian

A bit late to the conversation, but I've used the same external CD drive since I built my first rig in 2013 or so. Always just used it for drivers on all my rigs and for a few friends as well, but even then I've probably used it maybe 12 or 14 times in the past five years. However, I really like having fan controllers and maybe an NZXT Hue in my drive bays, so when a case completely removes 5.25" bays, I'm a bit disappointed. While unnecessary, I really enjoy having physical knobs or sliders for my fans.


----------



## ilmazzo

mAs81 said:


> Looks boss , kudos :thumb:


thanks man!

Still have to decide if I will put something in the 5,25'' slot...... I have a rheobus with temp sensors here around but I would like maybe to see if I can manage properly the fans in the case so it would be redundant.... I need to tweak the rgb lights system of the mobo and ram to math better the case.... hard times ahead fellow people!


----------



## pez

There's a big uptick lately in people 'streaming' content...when doing games, a two-system setup seems to work consistently, so there's a niche market for that, but it's becoming a big market. Good on Phanteks for getting in on something like that early with one of their more modern designs.

With it's ability to add quite a few 2.5" drives to it, I'm interested in it for some home server features. I'd much rather have two systems in one than have another system take up any extra space that I don't need it to. For me, space in my apartment isn't aplenty.


----------



## ciarlatano

pez said:


> There's a big uptick lately in people 'streaming' content...when doing games, a two-system setup seems to work consistently, so there's a niche market for that, but it's becoming a big market.


That is one scary social commentary right there......


----------



## Hawkeye360

Been trying to decide between the Fractal R5/R6 or a Phanteks Enthoo Pro, both non window variants. I dislike case windows.

Noise is my main concern. Obviously the Fractal cases are designed with low noise in mind. However the Phanteks case would have better airflow. I will replace all fans with Noctua fans irregardless of case.

Not sure what to get lol


----------



## Gilles3000

Hawkeye360 said:


> Not sure what to get lol


I'd say if you need multiple 5.25" bay devices, get the Pro. If not, I'd get the R6.

The R6 is just a more flexible case that the Pro aside from the 5,25" bays imo. And if you find that the front panel causes too much airflow restriction, you can mod it or have it modded to a mesh front.


----------



## ciarlatano

Hawkeye360 said:


> Been trying to decide between the Fractal R5/R6 or a Phanteks Enthoo Pro, both non window variants. I dislike case windows.
> 
> Noise is my main concern. Obviously the Fractal cases are designed with low noise in mind. However the Phanteks case would have better airflow. I will replace all fans with Noctua fans irregardless of case.
> 
> Not sure what to get lol


Something to keep in mind, with the Pro you won't have to replace the fans with Noctuas. The included F120MP variants will perform on par or better than any of the Noctuas variations in this application and have an excellent noise profile. So, that saves you $60 going with the Pro.

The R6 is a beautiful case and is built like a tank, but the included fans are atrocious, which is odd given how restrictive the front is. Regardless of what fans you use there, you will need to run them at a higher speed to overcome the restriction. So it may be quieter than the Pro, or may not.

I've used both of these cases in a couple of builds, and functionally really like both. I do prefer the look of the R6, but looks are subjective. It's a tough choice. But I will say that I always found the front door of my Fractals open more than I would have liked.


----------



## doyll

Hawkeye360 said:


> Been trying to decide between the Fractal R5/R6 or a Phanteks Enthoo Pro, both non window variants. I dislike case windows.
> 
> Noise is my main concern. Obviously the Fractal cases are designed with low noise in mind. However the Phanteks case would have better airflow. I will replace all fans with Noctua fans irregardless of case.
> 
> Not sure what to get lol


Gilles and ciarlatano advice is good. 

I'll add:

Define R5 and R6 have one piece bottom filter sliding out front, but Enthoo Pro 2 piece bottom filter can be easily modded into 1 piece so no advantage either way. 

R5 has 2x 5.25 but R6 only has one. Pro has 3

Be careful to check and be sure what fans Enthoo Pro front fan/s is. Some have 200mm fan which is junk .. and specs sometimes are not accurate as to what fans are included. As already said, all Phanteks case fans except 200mm are good. 

Most Enthoo Pro use PH-F140MP variant fans .. and often a 200mm round thing in front that looks like a fan but move almost no air. Enthoo Pro SE uses 2x 120mm and 1x 140mm. 

Be careful you are looking at Enthoo Pro and not Enthoo Pro M. While at a glance they look similar (both have 2x fan front vent) they are very different cases. Enthoo Pro uses same chassis as Enthoo Luxe. Enthoo Pro M uses same chassis as Enthoo Evolv ATX with different panels.

Phanteks should be releasing new Evolv model Evolv X and Eclipse P600S. Not a lot of info out about them but it appears they use same chassis with different panels. Evolv X will be about $200 but that is with good fans maybe needing 1 additional fan compared to Define R6 being $130 and needing 3-4 new fans costing $14.50 17 each (PH-F140SP 2-pack is $29; PH-F140MP 2-pack is $33). Eclipse will be much lower priced. Both have much better venting then previous Evolv and Eclipes cases did. Eclipes P600S has a center front panel that can be opened at an angle or completely removed for better front venting when running extreme loads.


----------



## nyk20z3

Finished the Luxe build last night finally -


----------



## ilmazzo

Gorgeous!!!!!



nyk20z3 said:


> Finished the Luxe build last night finally -


----------



## Tweetbix

Just wondering if spare parts are still available for purchase for enthoo primo's, specifically the front fan grill/filter holder.

When I was cleaning the filters today 2 of the clips on the same side snapped off back of the grill that holds the filter in place, as if they've gone brittle.
Shouldn't be any difference on that part between the se and the normal.

Sent from my D6503 using Tapatalk


----------



## doyll

Tweetbix said:


> Just wondering if spare parts are still available for purchase for enthoo primo's, specifically the front fan grill/filter holder.
> 
> When I was cleaning the filters today 2 of the clips on the same side snapped off back of the grill that holds the filter in place, as if they've gone brittle.
> Shouldn't be any difference on that part between the se and the normal.
> 
> Sent from my D6503 using Tapatalk


Best way to find out is email Phanteks support Depends on where ypu live on our big Blue Marble. North America is PhanteksUSA and everywhere else is Phanteks.


----------



## BigBoost

Just finished my build in a elite, not sure if it goes here or the elite thread (that one seems old so I didnt want to just bump it)


----------



## doyll

BigBoost said:


> Just finished my build in a elite, not sure if it goes here or the elite thread (that one seems old so I didnt want to just bump it)


Well, what are you waiting for?  
Please give us some pics and details of what you did.


----------



## BigBoost

doyll said:


> Well, what are you waiting for?
> Please give us some pics and details of what you did.


Ha! Fair enough.
I have a build thread for all the modifications, which include acrylic interior panels to hide up some of the un needed hole in the "stock" configuration.
But the meaty bits are 7980XE, 1080Ti SLI, 1600i PSU, 1TB 970 Pro, 64GB DDR4 3200.


----------



## TheAbyss

*Primo Mod Build*

Hello,

after Long and valuable discussions in this thread, let me share the outcome:

Phanteks Enthoo Primo SE Mod with custom water Loop. Interior redesigned with acrylic Sheets (painted and wrapped).

Hardware:
Phanteks Primo SE (modded)
Gigabyte Z270x Gaming 9
I7 [email protected]@Phanteks C350I
EVGA GTX [email protected] IV
Kingston HyperX DDR4 3000
Heatkiller Tube D5
Bykski Fittings
ALC VPP655 Vario
AC Highflow USB
AC AE6 Pro
2x AC Farbwerk USB
6x NB Eloop 14-PS
3x Noctua IPPC 2000
1x ALC 420ST30 x-Flow
1x Phobia G-Changer 420 v.2
9x Phanteks Halos 14
16er PETG Hardtubes


----------



## doyll

Nicely done! :thumb:


----------



## petmic10

@TheAbyss Beautiful build!


----------



## TheAbyss

Thanks a lot, running good even in the scorching german temperatures due to oversized rad space... custom side Panel is still on my workbench in the Garage, wife has more pressing Projects for me now that the System is working.


----------



## Bill Owen

Hey guys, been super busy, but just had to drop in here and mention Phanteks P400S seems to be the best deal midtower ATM., as I keep getting inquiries asking if I'll create DIY bezel mod video, similar to my H440 below. Just wanted to let you know I've ordered one for future guide! Have a good weekend!


----------



## doyll

Bill Owen said:


> Hey guys, been super busy, but just had to drop in here and mention Phanteks P400S seems to be the best deal midtower ATM., as I keep getting inquiries asking if I'll create DIY bezel mod video, similar to my H440 below. Just wanted to let you know I've ordered one for future guide! Have a good weekend!
> 
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QvypJFvsPW0


You too Mate! 

I played with the idea of extending the front out with something like a 3D printed extension that fit onto stock front clip pins and into cover chips creating a 5-6mm gap of increased airflow into front. Hope that makes sense. Don't have access to anyone who's good with 3D printers to make any to try out.


----------



## areksoo

The Evolv X case webpage is up on Phantek's website. The manual is there too.

There's no link on the site, but here's the url: http://www.phanteks.com/Enthoo-Evolv-X.html


----------



## doyll

areksoo said:


> The Evolv X case webpage is up on Phantek's website. The manual is there too.
> 
> There's no link on the site, but here's the url: http://www.phanteks.com/Enthoo-Evolv-X.html


Thanks!

2 days early Wasn't supposed to be until 28th.


----------



## doyll

areksoo said:


> The Evolv X case webpage is up on Phantek's website. The manual is there too.
> 
> There's no link on the site, but here's the url: http://www.phanteks.com/Enthoo-Evolv-X.html


Thanks!

Link to manual:
http://www.phanteks.com/assets/manuals/PH-ES518XTG.pdf


----------



## scracy

areksoo said:


> The Evolv X case webpage is up on Phantek's website. The manual is there too.
> 
> There's no link on the site, but here's the url: http://www.phanteks.com/Enthoo-Evolv-X.html


Awesome the wait is over, really wanted to know the dimensions as I have limited space in terms of width. Turns out it will suit my needs, can't wait to buy one!


----------



## crpcookie

Such a well built case. Only con I can think of is the non-removable PSU shroud.


----------



## PureBlackFire




----------



## pez

I'll have to check out this vid later, but I've been waiting for this case for a while....think I'm pretty determined that I'll be grabbing this one.


----------



## asdkj1740

good to see the top mounting bracket height wasting problem is fixed, as well as the front mounting bracket with proper cutout for 140mm fans now.
psu bracket for easy pulling out and pluging cables.
phanteks really tries very hard to use every room inside the case.

one thing is still unknown now, the bottom hdd cage mounting is using fixed screws holes or long strips for freely adjusting the cage.


----------



## ilmazzo

I noticed my fury gpu is not straight and is bended.......

I see two solutions:

- Insert somewhere a support on the end of the gpu (maybe a chtulhu action figure!!!)
- Mount the gpu vertically using some sort of adapter 

Are you aware of something that works in a enthoo pro m case like mine to switch the gpu position?


----------



## pez

Also, I'm pretty excited that they're including what I'm going to guess is their very lovely 140mm fans.


----------



## PureBlackFire

asdkj1740 said:


> good to see the top mounting bracket height wasting problem is fixed, as well as the front mounting bracket with proper cutout for 140mm fans now.
> psu bracket for easy pulling out and pluging cables.
> phanteks really tries very hard to use every room inside the case.
> 
> one thing is still unknown now, the bottom hdd cage mounting is using fixed screws holes or long strips for freely adjusting the cage.


far as it looks it could be some combination of both. the manual shows 3 positions.


----------



## doyll

I'm not sure about Evolv X having the retail version of fan they look like, the PH-F140MP. Phanteks changed case fans to a no model number one using what appears to be the PH-F140SP 1200rpm fan motor using a PH-F140MP like impeller. I've put in a request for one of these Evolv X. If I get it I will post up what the case fans are. 

I also noticed while case has a 5 year warranty, the I/O ports, fan hub, and power / control buttons all having only a 2 year warranty. Only a 2 year warranty on these items kinda makes me wonder if they are not expecting them to only last a couple years. :thumbsdow


----------



## pez

doyll said:


> I'm not sure about Evolv X having the retail version of fan they look like, the PH-F140MP. Phanteks changed case fans to a no model number one using what appears to be the PH-F140SP 1200rpm fan motor using a PH-F140MP like impeller. I've put in a request for one of these Evolv X. If I get it I will post up what the case fans are.
> 
> I also noticed while case has a 5 year warranty, the I/O ports, Fan Hub, and Buttons all have a 2 year warranty. Only a 1 year warrantee on these items kinda makes me wonder if they are not expecting them to last more than a couple years. :thumbsdow


Hmmm interesting. Well, they should theoretically be better than most stock fans I assume.

Also, it's possible they're only putting a two-year on the I/O panel because of 'wear and tear' of the USB-A and line-in/mic out ports. But I do agree it's strange they're not committing it to the full warranty period.


----------



## doyll

pez said:


> Hmmm interesting. Well, they should theoretically be better than most stock fans I assume.
> 
> Also, it's possible they're only putting a two-year on the I/O panel because of 'wear and tear' of the USB-A and line-in/mic out ports. But I do agree it's strange they're not committing it to the full warranty period.


The 1200rpm case fans with MP like impellers are quite good. Phanteks is one of the few case companies that actually supply cases with good fans meaning they cool well when computer is instaled into out of the box case. :specool:

I expect I/O ports and control buttons/switches on a case to last much longer than 2 years. A case warranty of 5 years should include same 5 year warranty on all components, not just inert objects and fans. :thumbsdow


----------



## DarthBaggins

Still find it amazing that MicroCenter has decided to start carrying the Phanteks line, finally I can go poke & prod a case or product before ordering it lol


----------



## pez

I just hope the $200 price tag was indeed true. I've got another build I might potentially try to complete before moving to this case, but if not, I think I'm pretty determined to pick one of these up.


----------



## petmic10

areksoo said:


> The Evolv X case webpage is up on Phantek's website. The manual is there too.
> 
> There's no link on the site, but here's the url: http://www.phanteks.com/Enthoo-Evolv-X.html


Bummer, the link no longer works.


----------



## PureBlackFire

petmic10 said:


> Bummer, the link no longer works.


cached link to the rescue: http://webcache.googleusercontent.c...X.html+&cd=2&hl=en&ct=clnk&gl=us&client=opera


----------



## petmic10

PureBlackFire said:


> cached link to the rescue: http://webcache.googleusercontent.c...X.html+&cd=2&hl=en&ct=clnk&gl=us&client=opera


Awesome! Thank you.


----------



## areksoo

ilmazzo said:


> I noticed my fury gpu is not straight and is bended.......
> 
> I see two solutions:
> 
> - Insert somewhere a support on the end of the gpu (maybe a chtulhu action figure!!!)
> - Mount the gpu vertically using some sort of adapter
> 
> Are you aware of something that works in a enthoo pro m case like mine to switch the gpu position?


Or option 3:







Just as side note, it seems like Phanteks watched this video because the Evolv X comes with a bracket that tightens the back end of the case on the GPU mounts. Basically does the same thing as what JayzTwoCents did, but more elegantly.


----------



## areksoo

PureBlackFire said:


> cached link to the rescue: http://webcache.googleusercontent.c...X.html+&cd=2&hl=en&ct=clnk&gl=us&client=opera


Good new/bad news.


Good news: Seems like some people had trouble today seeing the page, but it's up now officially. Same with the Revolt X PSU and a bunch of new accessories. 


Bad news: Phanteks also started their pre-order a few hours ago. Seems like it caught everyone off guard. It was sold out in minutes. They also sold the bundle of Evolv X, Revolt X and ITX bracket and that sold out in 2 hours. I don't know if that was due to limited supply or high demand... IMO, I think it was more limited supply. 

These pre-orders aren't shipping out until September 10th. So for those hoping to get one via retailers, it might be a bit of a wait. I asked Phanteks a few times and the best answer I got was mid to late September for USA. For Canada, I was told "shortly after the US". I don't know about anywhere else. 

I was fortunate to order the bundle. I'm in Canada, but I shipped it close to the border and will go pick it up. If nobody posted picks by the time I get mine, I'll put some up. Maybe even some side by side with my current case Enthoo Evolv ATX. lol!


----------



## doyll

areksoo said:


> Or option 3:
> 
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EOXYE3hx_JY
> 
> 
> Just as side note, it seems like Phanteks watched this video because the Evolv X comes with a bracket that tightens the back end of the case on the GPU mounts. Basically does the same thing as what JayzTwoCents did, but more elegantly.


JTC is just another talking head. The strain of these huge GPUs on PCie socket is the issue, and while his bandaid fix does pretty much level out the GPU PCB, it is not really resolving the problem.


----------



## doyll

Seems someone at Phanteks mistakenly let peeps access Evolv X webpage before it was supposed to be made public, then later pulled. Official release is 8AM PST (no idea why it's PST instead of PDT) today (28th) .. that is still several hours from now. 

I have no idea what these other webpages and 'sold out' is all about unless somehow some sales were automatically taken or what is gong on except for what I've said above. I can't say anything until after 8AM PST (still no idea why it's PST instead of PDT), but I do have press release information for release 8AM PST .. so do I release the infor at 8AM PST or 8AM PDT???


----------



## ilmazzo

doyll said:


> JTC is just another talking head. The strain of these huge GPUs on PCie socket is the issue, and while his bandaid fix does pretty much level out the GPU PCB, it is not really resolving the problem.


yep, I appreciate the input but I think that the 1,2kg gpu I have will bend anyway...... I think I will go for the action figure solution, my nerd ego would be more pleased with it.....hope won't melt lol

cheers


----------



## PureBlackFire




----------



## doyll

I find it unprofessional how much Evolv X info has leaked hours, even day + before official release timing. of 8AM PST. 

Seems once one leak was out many having pre-release info and parts are jumping out breaking their nondisclosure agreements with Phanteks and jumping the gun on the 8AM PST time table as stated by Phanteks in their pre-release information packet? :thumbsdow 

I know it's only a couple hours difference, but it's still not sticking to Phanteks' release timeline .. so how honest can a 'review' be if they are not trustworthy enough to honor Phantek's release time schedule?


----------



## PureBlackFire

it's a bit messy I agree. I'm waitingon more detailed reviews and I hope I can check out or buy the case in microcenter.


----------



## doyll

From experience using several Phanteks cases including Evolv ATX and Evolv mATX (as well as others) I believe Phanteks are some of the very best. Even their entry-level Eclipse cases are quite nice and good value. For what I've seen of the Evolv X if I was buying a new case it would probably be one first choice. I really like the thick aluminum panels used on Evolv cases .. both looks and no vibration like often seen in many thin metal case panels.


----------



## areksoo

https://www.overclockers.co.uk/lp/phanteks-evolv-x.html

Has stock!


----------



## petmic10

PureBlackFire said:


> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gcNsHS2U8RM


Looks like the new case is still having temperature issues? Both the cpu and gpu are air cooled in the video so I assume sticking a radiator in the front is probably going to make things worse?

9:40 mark in the video.

Default:
CPU: 77C
GPU: 90C

Filter Removed:
CPU: 76C
GPU: 86C

Filter/Panel Removed:
CPU: 74C
GPU: 85C


----------



## sblantipodi

does the evolve x looks good even with air cooled systems?


----------



## petmic10

sblantipodi said:


> does the evolve x looks good even with air cooled systems?


I think so. Did you watch the video? Go the 8:51 mark of the video. It has a Be Quiet air cooler and an EVGA air cooled GPU. Looks good to me.


----------



## doyll

petmic10 said:


> Looks like the new case is still having temperature issues? Both the cpu and gpu are air cooled in the video so I assume sticking a radiator in the front is probably going to make things worse?
> 
> 9:40 mark in the video.
> 
> Default:
> CPU: 77C
> GPU: 90C
> 
> Filter Removed:
> CPU: 76C
> GPU: 86C
> 
> Filter/Panel Removed:
> CPU: 74C
> GPU: 85C


I'm going to guess here that you have never tested a case's airflow and resulting temps with and without filters and grills/vent covers to know how much they effect cooling. 5c max is extremely good .. I didn't see anything about how fast fans were running during these tests, but even if at full speed the included fans' maximum speed is only 1200rpm. 

Try doing the same in a Fractal Design case with their stock case fans and the difference will be much more. I know one guy with a Meshify C that when he changed from 2x stock front intake case fans to 2x PH-F140MP lowered temps 8-10c .. Meshify C has a full grill front but with horrible stock fans.


----------



## petmic10

doyll said:


> I'm going to guess here that you have never tested a case's airflow and resulting temps with and without filters and grills/vent covers to know how much they effect cooling. 5c max is extremely good .. I didn't see anything about how fast fans were running during these tests, but even if at full speed the included fans' maximum speed is only 1200rpm.
> 
> Try doing the same in a Fractal Design case with their stock case fans and the difference will be much more. I know one guy with a Meshify C that when he changed from 2x stock front intake case fans to 2x PH-F140MP lowered temps 8-10c .. Meshify C has a full grill front but with horrible stock fans.


I'm aware that 5C is extremely good. I'm more concerned with the high temps in Default mode(whatever that means), especially the gpu. I know it's too early to pass judgement until we get more in depth reviews but those temperatures are a little concerning. I wonder if moving the rear 140mm exhaust fan to the intake would help? Any thoughts?


----------



## pez

doyll said:


> I'm going to guess here that you have never tested a case's airflow and resulting temps with and without filters and grills/vent covers to know how much they effect cooling. 5c max is extremely good .. I didn't see anything about how fast fans were running during these tests, but even if at full speed the included fans' maximum speed is only 1200rpm.
> 
> Try doing the same in a Fractal Design case with their stock case fans and the difference will be much more. I know one guy with a Meshify C that when he changed from 2x stock front intake case fans to 2x PH-F140MP lowered temps 8-10c .. Meshify C has a full grill front but with horrible stock fans.


I didn't get a chance to use the Fractal fans, but I definitely got rid of them immediately to use 120mm Phanteks MP fans throughout the system. I like this case, so it's hard to justify the 'need' for the Evolv X, but I still want it .

Also, seems to be sold out already. That's unfortunate.


----------



## PureBlackFire

I would like to see some tests of the evolv x with that magnetic top cover placed under the front fans. maybe a tighter seal around the more open front intake might help.


----------



## doyll

petmic10 said:


> I'm aware that 5C is extremely good. I'm more concerned with the high temps in Default mode(whatever that means), especially the gpu. I know it's too early to pass judgement until we get more in depth reviews but those temperatures are a little concerning. I wonder if moving the rear 140mm exhaust fan to the intake would help? Any thoughts?


No, they are not concerning at all. Original Evolv ATX has about 1/3rd as much front vent area and about 1/5th as much top vent area Evolv X has something like 3 times as much front venting and like 5 times as much top venting as Evolv ATX .. yet the original Evolv performs well both using water and air cooling. I have with one air coolers with an i7 [email protected] under Le Grand Macho and KFA2 GTX 770 LTD OC with 3x Arctic F9 PWM fans replacing it's stock 3x fans. System runs very cool and quiet all the time, even when pushing it hard.


----------



## petmic10

doyll said:


> No, they are not concerning at all. Original Evolv ATX has about 1/3rd as much front vent area and about 1/5th as much top vent area Evolv X has something like 3 times as much front venting and like 5 times as much top venting as Evolv ATX .. yet the original Evolv performs well both using water and air cooling. I have with one air coolers with an i7 [email protected] under Le Grand Macho and KFA2 GTX 770 LTD OC with 3x Arctic F9 PWM fans replacing it's stock 3x fans. System runs very cool and quiet all the time, even when pushing it hard.


I have the original Evolv too with a Noctua NH-D15S/6700k oc to 4.5GHz and an EVGA FTW3 1080ti Hybrid(overclocked) with a Noctua NF-F12 on the radiator and it runs very cool and quiet also which is why the temps in the video were a little alarming. In theory and based on the changes Phanteks made, the Evolv X should be much better than the original Evolv in terms of air flow.

I guess I'll hold judgement until we get more information.


----------



## PureBlackFire

another review with temp results. https://www.cowcotland.com/articles/2543-5/test-boitier-phanteks-evolv-x.html


----------



## petmic10

PureBlackFire said:


> another review with temp results. https://www.cowcotland.com/articles/2543-5/test-boitier-phanteks-evolv-x.html


It's in French.

Although I see the graphs and the temps look pretty good If I'm reading them right.



Google translate:
The test is always the same as usual, 30 minutes of Crysis, 20 minutes of rest, once in 12 volts and once in 5 volts.

Three fans in 140 mm, it is simply the job, whether it is 12 volts or 5 volts. On the other hand, we notice that the HDD heat because they do not take advantage of airflow, however nothing very serious, because we can move the fan if necessary.

In 12 volts, the case is powerful and we know why, the fans spit a lot and therefore we hear the three blowers and it is said, the case is not silent in 12 volts. By cons in 5 volts, it's ZERO noise.

Conclusion

We are used to it, Phanteks knows how to make good boxes, as grandmother can make good coffee. And the Evolv X is no exception to the rule, the latter is, in our eyes, perfect. The exterior is beautiful and very well done, we have aluminum and tempered glass. The interior offers a chassis that is devilishly effective and that will in addition to hide everything. The integration possibilities are enormous and even the storage is not forgotten. The ventilation is faithful to three times 140 mm and it suits us very well, more with its larger openings, the case is a little more efficient than the previous generation, but the whole thing is noisy in 12 volts. At 199 Euros a copy, the Evolv X is not cheap, but you'll get what you pay for.


----------



## paskowitz

Yeah, Phanteks stock fans are a seriously under appreciated part of their cases. 9/10 times, case fans are a throw away. When you factor in you can actually keep the 3 stock fans... the sometimes higher price tag isn't so bad.


----------



## areksoo

Just a note about the fans. They are the 140MP fans in the Evolv X. Previous versions of the Evolv ATX used the 140SP fans. 

From Phanteks' website:

PH-F140SP
Speed (RPM): 1200 ± 250 rpm
Max Airflow: 82.1 CFM
Acoustical Noise: 19 dB (A)

PH-F140MP
Speed (RPM): 500-1600 ± 250 rpm
Max Airflow: 68.1 CFM
Acoustical Noise: 17-25.3 dB (A)


So the Evolv X fans spin faster, push less air and more audible. I wonder if the 140SP fans would have made a difference in results.


----------



## doyll

paskowitz said:


> Yeah, Phanteks stock fans are a seriously under appreciated part of their cases. 9/10 times, case fans are a throw away. When you factor in you can actually keep the 3 stock fans... the sometimes higher price tag isn't so bad.


Only too true!

The cowcotland review includes Dark Base Pro 900 with Silent Wings 3 1600rpm (33% higher speed) fans against Evolv X included 1200rpm fans (I think) being as cool or cooler except for HDD test .. and HDDs were under PSU shroud with bottom of bottom most front intake fan being flush with top of PSU shroud .. meaning little to no airflow below the PSU shroud around HDDs.


----------



## pez

Just noticed the combo link. Bare minimum their PSU to go with the system is $245 for 1kW and $265 for 1.2kW....well.......ok.

EDIT: I guess I didn't account for the ITX kit, but oh well. I thought it was mentioned that was going to come with the case to boot, though.


----------



## doyll

areksoo said:


> Just a note about the fans. They are the 140MP fans in the Evolv X. Previous versions of the Evolv ATX used the 140SP fans.
> 
> From Phanteks' website:
> 
> PH-F140SP
> Speed (RPM): 1200 ± 250 rpm
> Max Airflow: 82.1 CFM
> Acoustical Noise: 19 dB (A)
> 
> PH-F140MP
> Speed (RPM): 500-1600 ± 250 rpm
> Max Airflow: 68.1 CFM
> Acoustical Noise: 17-25.3 dB (A)
> 
> So the Evolv X fans spin faster, push less air and more audible. I wonder if the 140SP fans would have made a difference in results.


While the PH-F140SP and PH-F140MP fan specs are correct, the case fans now supplied with cases are not PH-F140MP fans. Let me put a little more emphasis on that 140mm case fans are not PH-F140MP fans, but 1200rpm variable voltage motors spinning a PH-F140MP like impeller. 

Here's a little history about Phanteks case fan evolution. The original cases came with PH-F140SP fans, but a couple years ago they changed those 140mm case fans to what looks like PH-F140MP using a 1200rpm variable voltage motor. For a long time they didn't even change cases' fan specs from PH-F140SP fans, then removed any specification of case fans. The Evolv X has these same no model number using 1200rpm variable voltage motor with MP like impeller case fans.


----------



## sblantipodi

when Evolv X will be available in shops?
how many SSDs brackets will be available without separate purchase?


----------



## doyll

pez said:


> Just noticed the combo link. Bare minimum their PSU to go with the system is $245 for 1kW and $265 for 1.2kW....well.......ok.
> 
> EDIT: I guess I didn't account for the ITX kit, but oh well. I thought it was mentioned that was going to come with the case to boot, though.


Case with PSU and ITX mount is $464.97. GPU 
https://www.phanteksusa.com/collections/cases/products/phanteks-evolv-x-dual-system-combo

They list several vertical GPU mounts and cables for Evolv X dual systems.


----------



## pez

doyll said:


> Case with PSU and ITX mount is $464.97. GPU
> https://www.phanteksusa.com/collections/cases/products/phanteks-evolv-x-dual-system-combo
> 
> They list several vertical GPU mounts and cables for Evolv X dual systems.


Yeah I meant to link the combo page. I'm more interested in how the PSU is going to fair before I become interested in that....especially at that price.


----------



## Melcar

paskowitz said:


> Yeah, Phanteks stock fans are a seriously under appreciated part of their cases. 9/10 times, case fans are a throw away. When you factor in you can actually keep the 3 stock fans... the sometimes higher price tag isn't so bad.



Phanteks fans (at least the MP versions) are indeed Godly. If you compare them against say, Noctua and Thermalright fans, they actually outperform them at the same speed (nothing drastic). Whish they had developed a 2K rpm version.


----------



## doyll

I've found out that there will be some Evolv x sold on Newegg and Amazon. I assume after the September 10th which I assume is when shipment is expected to arrive .. as in a container ship arriving and off-loading at Port of Los Angeles.


----------



## ciarlatano

areksoo said:


> Just a note about the fans. They are the 140MP fans in the Evolv X. Previous versions of the Evolv ATX used the 140SP fans.
> 
> From Phanteks' website:
> 
> PH-F140SP
> Speed (RPM): 1200 ± 250 rpm
> Max Airflow: 82.1 CFM
> Acoustical Noise: 19 dB (A)
> 
> PH-F140MP
> Speed (RPM): 500-1600 ± 250 rpm
> Max Airflow: 68.1 CFM
> Acoustical Noise: 17-25.3 dB (A)
> 
> 
> So the Evolv X fans spin faster, push less air and more audible. I wonder if the 140SP fans would have made a difference in results.


And.....this is one of the many reasons open air specs on the box are meaningless. No mention of static pressure, especially at varying speeds, no results of PQ in the conditions the fan is actually used in.....no test at all in the condition the fan is actually used in for that matter. As we have seen in multiple tests, the MP moves more air with less noise than the SP when any restriction (like the front cover, a rad, a grill, etc, etc) is involved.


----------



## doyll

ciarlatano said:


> And.....this is one of the many reasons open air specs on the box are meaningless. No mention of static pressure, especially at varying speeds, no results of PQ in the conditions the fan is actually used in.....no test at all in the condition the fan is actually used in for that matter. As we have seen in multiple tests, the MP moves more air with less noise than the SP when any restriction (like the front cover, a rad, a grill, etc, etc) is involved.


In Phanteks' defense, they do give static pressure on website .. but they do not give any model number or specifications for their 140mm case fan that looks like PH-F140MP but is 1200rpm variable voltage, not 1600rpm PWM that PH-F140MP fan is. :thumb:

CoolingTechnique tested PH-F140HP-II, same fan as PH-F140MP but in rounded cooler housing showing free airflow and static pressure at different rpm. Here is their free airflow and results. Not a huge difference but new case fan is obviously better than old HP is .. better free airflow, lower noise levels and better static pressure at all speeds.


----------



## areksoo

doyll said:


> While the PH-F140SP and PH-F140MP fan specs are correct, the case fans now supplied with cases are not PH-F140MP fans. Let me put a little more emphasis on that 140mm case fans are not PH-F140MP fans, but 1200rpm variable voltage motors spinning a PH-F140MP like impeller.
> 
> Here's a little history about Phanteks case fan evolution. The original cases came with PH-F140SP fans, but a couple years ago they changed those 140mm case fans to what looks like PH-F140MP using a 1200rpm variable voltage motor. For a long time they didn't even change cases' fan specs from PH-F140SP fans, then removed any specification of case fans. The Evolv X has these same no model number using 1200rpm variable voltage motor with MP like impeller case fans.


Thanks for the info. I was wondering why some cases had the (for lack of a proper name) MP look-a-likes rather than the SP fans like the Enthoo Elite and some versions of the Pro.



pez said:


> Yeah I meant to link the combo page. I'm more interested in how the PSU is going to fair before I become interested in that....especially at that price.


There was an article posted yesterday. The PSUs are priced as such:

1200w --> $249.99
1000w --> $229.99

So the bundle didn't have any discount at all (Case $199.99 + PSU $249.99 + ITX Bracket $14.99 = $464.97), but did have a discount code that was $25.99 off, which basically works out to free ground shipping. I bought this. 

The Revolt X details say all the right things like partnered with Seasonic, 12 year warranty, Japanese capacitors, etc. But I can see why people would still want to wait for a full review. This is Phanteks' first PSU. Also it did have some delays. The initial launch of the Revolt X was back at the end of Q1 this year. What caused the delay? And what happened to the Pro versions?


----------



## asdkj1740

f140hp i is the best fan phanteks has ever made, it is really shame phanteks does not make it in square frame. 
ii is just the remake of mp fan.

f140hp i (1200~1300rpm) draws even more air than a14pwm (1500rpm). the king of being used as case fan among other phanteks fan.
i really regret selling those out. and it is hard to buy now, probably discontinued..


do not ignore fan's static pressure, it really helps in restrictive airflow intake cases(especailly fighting with too dust-proof oriented filters).
f140mp is kind of all-rounder but it needs high rpm to get the performance in my experience.


----------



## pez

areksoo said:


> Thanks for the info. I was wondering why some cases had the (for lack of a proper name) MP look-a-likes rather than the SP fans like the Enthoo Elite and some versions of the Pro.
> 
> 
> 
> There was an article posted yesterday. The PSUs are priced as such:
> 
> 1200w --> $249.99
> 1000w --> $229.99
> 
> So the bundle didn't have any discount at all (Case $199.99 + PSU $249.99 + ITX Bracket $14.99 = $464.97), but did have a discount code that was $25.99 off, which basically works out to free ground shipping. I bought this.
> 
> The Revolt X details say all the right things like partnered with Seasonic, 12 year warranty, Japanese capacitors, etc. But I can see why people would still want to wait for a full review. This is Phanteks' first PSU. Also it did have some delays. The initial launch of the Revolt X was back at the end of Q1 this year. What caused the delay? And what happened to the Pro versions?


It's not an unreasonable price I guess in the end for what it offers. I do remember it being said Seasonic was the OEM, but I always like to read a review from JonnyGuru on PSUs before making a decision. In the end, I may not even end up doing a dual system like I was thinking, so I'd be better off buying a more appropriate PSU for cheaper anyways. But who knows....I'll reserve any judgement for the reviews.


----------



## petmic10

doyll said:


> In Phanteks' defense, they do give static pressure on website .. but they do not give any model number or specifications for their 140mm case fan that looks like PH-F140MP but is 1200rpm variable voltage, not 1600rpm PWM that PH-F140MP fan is. :thumb:
> 
> CoolingTechnique tested PH-F140HP-II, same fan as PH-F140MP but in rounded cooler housing showing free airflow and static pressure at different rpm. Here is their free airflow and results. Not a huge difference but new case fan is obviously better than old HP is .. better free airflow, lower noise levels and better static pressure at all speeds.


Thank you for posting that graph. Very informative.


----------



## doyll

asdkj1740 said:


> f140hp i is the best fan phanteks has ever made, it is really shame phanteks does not make it in square frame.
> ii is just the remake of mp fan.
> 
> f140hp i (1200~1300rpm) draws even more air than a14pwm (1500rpm). the king of being used as case fan among other phanteks fan.
> i really regret selling those out. and it is hard to buy now, probably discontinued..
> 
> 
> do not ignore fan's static pressure, it really helps in restrictive airflow intake cases(especailly fighting with too dust-proof oriented filters).
> f140mp is kind of all-rounder but it needs high rpm to get the performance in my experience.


Having used PH-F140TS, PH-F140HP and newer PH-F140HP_II I have to disagree. PH-F140HP_II is better. 

Few retailers stock PH-F140HP or newer PH-F140HP_II because they have rounded housing with 105mm mounting holes only used on coolers, and as most users do not change their cooler fans there is no demand for them. Where are you located? I might be able to find you some if you really want some. I replaced my original PH-TC14PE PH-F140TS fans with TY-143, not because I needed 2500rpm but because their color matched my red cooler and they work very well from 600rpm minimum to 1300rpm, same as wonderful old TY-140, thenTY-147 and now TY-147A do. I can say the extra 1000rpm does give about 8c lower temps on 14PE on high overclocked wattage CPU.


A fan that does not a good pressure differential is virtually worthless .. it's that pressure difference between intake and exhaust sides that move the air .. and pressure differential is usually measured as static pressure, so no or low static pressure ratings no or low airflow with even the slightest resistance.


----------



## petmic10

KitGuruTech review of the Evolv X


----------



## pez

I think the more I watch reviews the less I like the sliding panel pieces. I get the design overall, and it makes sense, but for me personally, it's my least favorite aspect of the case. Everything else about it is a knockout, though.


----------



## petmic10

Newegg is taking pre-orders. Shipping Sept. 24th

I just pre-ordered an Anthracite Gray Evolv X

https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811854077&ignorebbr=1


----------



## PureBlackFire

pez said:


> I think the more I watch reviews the less I like the sliding panel pieces. I get the design overall, and it makes sense, but for me personally, it's my least favorite aspect of the case. Everything else about it is a knockout, though.


I agree. imo since they redesigned the whole chassis, the space could have been better utilized. even the drive sleds should be able to slide around horizontally. but that's a minor nitpick


----------



## doyll

I have yet to see a case that didn't have a few things that I would have like done differently .. and I'm sure others like the things I disliked wanting things I liked changed. That's the way we are and I'm glad. Would be a very boring world if we all thought the same.


----------



## pez

PureBlackFire said:


> I agree. imo since they redesigned the whole chassis, the space could have been better utilized. even the drive sleds should be able to slide around horizontally. but that's a minor nitpick


Exactly. Of course this is from a consumer standpoint on my end vs. everyone else so it's probably not going to bother everyone .



doyll said:


> I have yet to see a case that didn't have a few things that I would have like done differently .. and I'm sure others like the things I disliked wanting things I liked changed. That's the way we are and I'm glad. Would be a very boring world if we all thought the same.


Indeed! Honestly, I'm kinda hoping that Phanteks will do a Pro M refresh with a completely meshed out front panel.


----------



## nyk20z3

petmic10 said:


> Newegg is taking pre-orders. Shipping Sept. 24th
> 
> I just pre-ordered an Anthracite Gray Evolv X
> 
> https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811854077&ignorebbr=1


Doesn’t seem to work for me when I try to pre order

NVM you cant pre order using the mobile app


----------



## ilmazzo

Ok that's the position I would like to give to my gpu...... is possible on my enthoo pro m without extreme mods or I should forget about it?


----------



## shilka

I am having problems with my Luxe case as its making a buzzing noise which is driving me insane!!!
I dont know if its the right side panel or the front panel or if its the drive cages that making the noise

Because i am using Seagate Ironwolf drives which has fewer mounting holes than older drives the only way to get them to fit in the HDD brackets is break off the middle mounting taps on the mounting brackets only then can the arms actually close and lock

Yesterday i discovered that are also mounting taps on the bottom of the mounting brackets and course there are no hole on the Ironwolf where the tap is supposed to go so broke that off as well
Need to do the same with the 3 other drives in my PC as i dont think they are sitting right in the brackets either with a tap sticking out of the bottom of the bracket

Is this extremely frustrating and annoying buzzing noise due to the HDD´s not sitting right in the brackets or could the age of the case be the problem
The only way to get the noise to go away is to lighty smack the front or right side panel but rather not want to do that with so may drives worth more than $2000 US with so much data on them

I am seriously thinking about buying the new Phanteks Enthoo Luxe Tempered Glass version to replace my 4 year old Luxe as this buzzing noise drives me crazy
By the way i have extremely sensitive hearing and my brain cant filter out back ground noise like that so its really something i need to something about soon

Does the new Luxe with the tempered glass use the same old stupid design for its HDD bracket? really dont feel like having to rip or break off another 8 plastic taps if i can avoid it

Edit: by the way my old Cooler Master HAF X did exactly the same thing where the side panels would start to make buzzing noises which is why i replaced the HAF X


----------



## doyll

Amazon should be getting Evolv X same time Newegg does.


----------



## d0mmie

shilka said:


> I am having problems with my Luxe case as its making a buzzing noise which is driving me insane!!!
> I dont know if its the right side panel or the front panel or if its the drive cages that making the noise
> 
> Because i am using Seagate Ironwolf drives which has fewer mounting holes than older drives the only way to get them to fit in the HDD brackets is break off the middle mounting taps on the mounting brackets only then can the arms actually close and lock
> 
> Yesterday i discovered that are also mounting taps on the bottom of the mounting brackets and course there are no hole on the Ironwolf where the tap is supposed to go so broke that off as well
> Need to do the same with the 3 other drives in my PC as i dont think they are sitting right in the brackets either with a tap sticking out of the bottom of the bracket
> 
> Is this extremely frustrating and annoying buzzing noise due to the HDD´s not sitting right in the brackets or could the age of the case be the problem
> The only way to get the noise to go away is to lighty smack the front or right side panel but rather not want to do that with so may drives worth more than $2000 US with so much data on them
> 
> I am seriously thinking about buying the new Phanteks Enthoo Luxe Tempered Glass version to replace my 4 year old Luxe as this buzzing noise drives me crazy
> By the way i have extremely sensitive hearing and my brain cant filter out back ground noise like that so its really something i need to something about soon
> 
> Does the new Luxe with the tempered glass use the same old stupid design for its HDD bracket? really dont feel like having to rip or break off another 8 plastic taps if i can avoid it
> 
> Edit: by the way my old Cooler Master HAF X did exactly the same thing where the side panels would start to make buzzing noises which is why i replaced the HAF X


I doubt that would help you much. I have the TG version and used to have 4 x 4 TB WD Reds installed in the drive bay, and the drives would cause the case to rattle and it would resonate through the case sometimes. I then tried with a Primo and that was much worse, very flimsy metals used in that case.

I decided to buy a Corsair Carbide 600Q instead for my server, I then took the drive caddy from the Luxe and installed those in the front of the Corsair case, by putting some foam underneath them and screwing it in from the bottom. There's even room for some water cooling if one wanted to, even though the internal layout becomes a bit chaotic


----------



## shilka

d0mmie said:


> I doubt that would help you much. I have the TG version and used to have 4 x 4 TB WD Reds installed in the drive bay, and the drives would cause the case to rattle and it would resonate through the case sometimes. I then tried with a Primo and that was much worse, very flimsy metals used in that case.
> 
> I decided to buy a Corsair Carbide 600Q instead for my server, I then took the drive caddy from the Luxe and installed those in the front of the Corsair case, by putting some foam underneath them and screwing it in from the bottom. There's even room for some water cooling if one wanted to, even though the internal layout becomes a bit chaotic


 As i said my old HAF X started to make exactly the same buzzing noise when it got older and that was from the side panel and the reason for that is i take it off so much
The NZXT Phantom i had before the HAF X also did the same thing so thats why i am asking if its the drive brackets or if its the side panel?

Smacking the side panel stops the noise so i actually think its the side panel but then again i could be wrong
My Luxe has seen better days and even when it was new it was strange as the Phanteks logo inside is mounted upside down

I dont mind the noise from the drives or even a little vibration noise but the loud buzzing noise is driving me nuts
My Luxe is a little over 4 years and i think its the longest i have ever had a case

Another thing that has annoyed me over the 4 years i had my Luxe is the NF-A14 FLX fans i use as they also make a annoying buzzing noise unless they are either at min or full speed
Does the Phanteks fans have the same problem with buzzing noise on anything between min and max speed?

Edit: maybe i should give up and buy a new case and i have been looking at the Be Quiet Dark Base 900 Rev 2 but it has million screws and i am not a huge fan of that
Dont have a picture from this year but took one last year when i upgraded to a GTX 1080

Edit: 2 just took the side panel off and the second it came lose the buzzing noise stopped so it is indeed the side panel making the buzzing noise so maybe it has been bent or something either way its the side panel that make the actual noise but 4 high speed HDD´s sitting right next to it is not helping


----------



## doyll

@ shilka
With modern systems HDDs are often the loudest component, even when mounted with vibration dampening, and sadly there is little that can be done if HDD cage is not designed to dampen/isolate that vibration. I wonder if instead of using the plastic clip in bracket if a dense foam like neoprene used in wetsuits or weather stripping could be used on sides and bottom corners of HDD. I can't remember if the metal mounting frame lip that hold slide-in plastic trays is wide enough to hold HDD. I used to make isolation mounts using rubber grommets that fit into hole in metal with screw through middle of grommet into HDD so there is rubber on all sides. Screws are just tightened enough so there is no slack. If screws are too loose HDD can shake inside of frame and if too tight transfer vibration into frame. 

Grommet similar to this:









I liked grommets with hole just big enough so screw rubbed tight in them. This seemed to keep screws from vibrating loose. If using stock HDD cage you might need some rubber between grommet and HDD to fill the gap, something like adhesive rubber weather stripping. 

Something similar to this:









Could be put on HDD with holes matching mounting holes and just thick enough to give HDD a snug fit between rubber grommets. Then use screws of appropriate length and thread through grommet, rubber seal strip and into HDD.

Just be sure the rubber grommets are not too dense/hard and be careful to not tighten screws too tight or vibration will be transferred through to HDD cage and case.


----------



## shilka

This is the Phanteks stock HDD bracket and as you can see there where plastic taps on the arms but because Ironwolf drives dont have holes there you cant lock the arms without breaking off those taps

There is also a plastic tap in the middle on the left hand side and off course the Ironwolf drives dont have holes there either so the drive is resting on top of the tap
I have not noticed that before yesterday where i broke it off on the newest drive 

The 3 older drives are resting on top of the tap as well so they are actually not locked in properly and they are resting at a slight angle 
I dont have a file to remove the last bits of the taps so even if i remove all of them there will still be left over bits

You will need to zoom in on the picture to see those damm taps
Edit: i wonder if fixing the problem with drives and the brackets will fix the buzzing noise from the side panel


----------



## d0mmie

shilka said:


> As i said my old HAF X started to make exactly the same buzzing noise when it got older and that was from the side panel and the reason for that is i take it off so much
> The NZXT Phantom i had before the HAF X also did the same thing so thats why i am asking if its the drive brackets or if its the side panel?
> 
> Smacking the side panel stops the noise so i actually think its the side panel but then again i could be wrong
> My Luxe has seen better days and even when it was new it was strange as the Phanteks logo inside is mounted upside down
> 
> I dont mind the noise from the drives or even a little vibration noise but the loud buzzing noise is driving me nuts
> My Luxe is a little over 4 years and i think its the longest i have ever had a case
> 
> Another thing that has annoyed me over the 4 years i had my Luxe is the NF-A14 FLX fans i use as they also make a annoying buzzing noise unless they are either at min or full speed
> Does the Phanteks fans have the same problem with buzzing noise on anything between min and max speed?
> 
> Edit: maybe i should give up and buy a new case and i have been looking at the Be Quiet Dark Base 900 Rev 2 but it has million screws and i am not a huge fan of that
> Dont have a picture from this year but took one last year when i upgraded to a GTX 1080
> 
> Edit: 2 just took the side panel off and the second it came lose the buzzing noise stopped so it is indeed the side panel making the buzzing noise so maybe it has been bent or something either way its the side panel that make the actual noise but 4 high speed HDD´s sitting right next to it is not helping


And that was the exact issue I had with my Primo, the side panel would just not give me a moments rest. On top of that the grill around the backfan would also rattle. One upside with the Luxe TG however is that the glass doesn't touch metal, there's this fine sheet of foam that doesn't get worn down with use, which seems to work very well. I guess you could also fix the drive caddies should they cause any rattle, by stuffing in a bit of foam in between.


----------



## shilka

d0mmie said:


> And that was the exact issue I had with my Primo, the side panel would just not give me a moments rest. On top of that the grill around the backfan would also rattle. One upside with the Luxe TG however is that the glass doesn't touch metal, there's this fine sheet of foam that doesn't get worn down with use, which seems to work very well. I guess you could also fix the drive caddies should they cause any rattle, by stuffing in a bit of foam in between.


 The TG only has glass on the left side the right side is still metal and thats what is making the buzzing noise on my Luxe
Its 4 years old and i dont know how many times that side panel has been taken on and off but its a ton so it might be bent or something

The 5 NF-A14 FLX fans are also making buzzing noise so it sounds like a freaking beehive at times
Edit: does the stock Phanteks fans make buzzing noises when they are not on min or max speed?


----------



## d0mmie

shilka said:


> The TG only has glass on the left side the right side is still metal and thats what is making the buzzing noise on my Luxe
> Its 4 years old and i dont know how many times that side panel has been taken on and off but its a ton so it might be bent or something
> 
> The 5 NF-A14 FLX fans are also making buzzing noise so it sounds like a freaking beehive at times
> Edit: does the stock Phanteks fans make buzzing noises when they are not on min or max speed?


I don't have problems with my right side panel, as I used dampening foam from Caseking. This in turn made the side panel more heavy, which is why the side panels rattle in the first place. Can't answer your question regarding the Phanteks fans as I never used them. I only use Noctua NF-F12's or Corsair ML120/140 Pro fans, and I never had issues with those.

This is my current build in my Luxe case:


----------



## shilka

Took the drives out of the cages and sure enough all 3 of them was resting at an angle because of the tap in the middle of the bracket so i tore all of them off
On another note it seems that now with the tap gone it seems like the two back holes on my Ironwolf drives might be able to hold screws now

Would adding screws on the back help in any way? not even sure i have that many screws left
The only thing holding the drives in place is the two front plastic taps on the arms of the bracket


----------



## doyll

shilka said:


> Took the drives out of the cages and sure enough all 3 of them was resting at an angle because of the tap in the middle of the bracket so i tore all of them off
> On another note it seems that now with the tap gone it seems like the two back holes on my Ironwolf drives might be able to hold screws now
> 
> Would adding screws on the back help in any way? not even sure i have that many screws left
> The only thing holding the drives in place is the two front plastic taps on the arms of the bracket


P̶a̶r̶t̶ all of problem is the hard plastic is transfering vibration with no soft material providing vibration absorption/dampening except the round white-ish pieces over mount side pins .. so all vibration in HDD moves through plastic mount into metal HDD cage and on into case. 

But as you don't have a file to remove bits I suspect you don't have the tools needed to build vibration dampening mounts. 

Only other option I can think of is remove plastic mounts and set HDDs on blocks of upholstery foam with thin strips on each side between HDD and cage .. but that would also stop airflow around HDDs as well as insulate them so they would probably heat up. 

I just pulled one of the HDD mounts out of my Evolv mATX. It has 2 pins in bottom; the one on left side you circled and one on right side just in from where right side bracket pin comes through.

If you haven't already broken the pins off of side brackets the whole side bracket can easily be removed from HDD mounting frame. Just spring the pivoting end together a little, move bracket up/down and presto, one pin comes out of plastic HDD frame and bracket comes off. 

Try laying a thin layer of soft dense foam between HDD and mount as well as on each side of HDD so there is foam on both sides and bottom, then push HDD mount into cage. 

Another option would be to find some foam thick and dense enough to wedge between HDD and metal cage without using the plastic HDD mount at all. 

The trick to stopping the vibration buzz / noises is vibration dampening between HDD and what it's mount in. It vibration is stopped then all noise is from with in HDD. 

Years ago I used 20mm squares of 8mm Neoprene foam like wet-suits are made of glued to case bottom and onto bottom of HDD. Squares so there was airflow around everything.


----------



## doyll

dbl post


----------



## doyll

triple post


----------



## d0mmie

shilka said:


> Took the drives out of the cages and sure enough all 3 of them was resting at an angle because of the tap in the middle of the bracket so i tore all of them off
> On another note it seems that now with the tap gone it seems like the two back holes on my Ironwolf drives might be able to hold screws now
> 
> Would adding screws on the back help in any way? not even sure i have that many screws left
> The only thing holding the drives in place is the two front plastic taps on the arms of the bracket


It should. I've had mine secured with the side screws before and it certainly did help with the noise coming from the case, but of course it was a PITA to switch out a drive due to that


----------



## shilka

Correction the pin on the left side was the problem the pin on the right line up fine with the Ironwolf drives so i just left the right pin in place as there was no need to break that off
Might be too soon to tell for sure but breaking the left tap off might have helped a little bit

I dont know why the Ironwolf drives have so few holes in the old days there was 3 on each side and 6 on the bottom for a total of 12 holes
The Ironwolf only have 2 on each side and 4 on the bottom for a total of 8 which is a massive problem as the Phanteks HDD brackets are made for the old 12 hole drives

Edit: have sent an email to Phanteks letting them know of the problem with their brackets so who knows maybe they will listen and move or remove the pins that is causing the problem
I know i am not the only one that have had to break off those pins to get their drives to fit in the bracket

Off topic but does anyone know where you buy a cheap and legal Windows 10 code? (never mind found a site so hope the code will work)

Picked up a Samsung 860 Evo 1 TB yesterday so i can install Windows10 on that, picked up a 12 TB Ironwolf Pro at the same time so counting the SSD´s i got 39,7 TB of total storage now
38,6 TB for the HDD´s


----------



## asdkj1740

p300/p350x/p400 stock fan


----------



## doyll

asdkj1740 said:


> p300/p350x/p400 stock fan


Thank you for this bit of info!. :thumb: 

Could you please give us a link to website you found it on? I'm curious to see if there is any other information we are not seeing elsewhere. 

Below is specifications Phanteks sent me for newer 1200rpm variable voltage PH-F140MP look-a-like case fans

Phantkes said the fan performs better in restricted spaces which is why the free airflow numbers seem a bit lower than the SP series fans, but they gave no CFM rating and static pressure rating is 0.02mm H2O lower than PH-F140SP case fan, so doesn't make much sense. Having used both in same case I like the new fans a little better. While I could not find any difference in cooling the have a more pleasant sound .. what little is even audible. 

Newer no model number PH-F140MP look-a-like case fan. 
Phanteks once told me it was F140MP_BK (3pin for case installation), but PH-F140MP_BK is model number for black/black PH-F140MP, so obviously not the case fan model number.  
Speed (RPM) . . . . 1200RPM +/- 250 rpm.
Max Airflow . . . . . ? ? ?
Static Pressure . . . 1.31 mmH2O
Acoustical Noise	. . 24.2 dBA


----------



## sblantipodi

Regarding evolv x. Do you think that they will be able to fit a big 360mm for 60mm radiator in front and 360 for 30 in top? Will the reservoire and the GPU fit in this configuration?


----------



## sblantipodi

How can I connect to the reservoir and the pump to the case. I see no holes for it. Please help


----------



## scracy

sblantipodi said:


> Regarding evolv x. Do you think that they will be able to fit a big 360mm for 60mm radiator in front and 360 for 30 in top? Will the reservoire and the GPU fit in this configuration?


60mm thick 360mm radiator will fit in the front BUT you will have clearance issues between your res and graphics cards assuming you are using a 60mm diameter res


----------



## scracy

sblantipodi said:


> How can I connect to the reservoir and the pump to the case. I see no holes for it. Please help


Personally Im using a pump /res combo and planning to purchase another EK PE-360 (38mm thick) radiator to fit the Evolve X build, I use one of these, clean and easy  attaches directly to the front radiator as seen below in my current Evolve ATX, note you can see what Im saying about clearance to your graphics card.


----------



## sblantipodi

scracy said:


> sblantipodi said:
> 
> 
> 
> How can I connect to the reservoir and the pump to the case. I see no holes for it. Please help
> 
> 
> 
> Personally Im using a pump /res combo and planning to purchase another EK PE-360 (38mm thick) radiator to fit the Evolve X build, I use one of these, clean and easy /forum/images/smilies/smile.gif attaches directly to the front radiator as seen below in my current Evolve ATX, note you can see what Im saying about clearance to your graphics card.
Click to expand...

Ok thanks. I can buy the 38mm but is a 38mm enough to cool two gpu? 
What are your top radiator? 
What are the max temp on gpu and CPU?
Is there the possibility to fit the same pump using a 250mm tube extension?

Please answer all questions if you can.
Thanks


----------



## scracy

sblantipodi said:


> scracy said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> sblantipodi said:
> 
> 
> 
> How can I connect to the reservoir and the pump to the case. I see no holes for it. Please help
> 
> 
> 
> Personally Im using a pump /res combo and planning to purchase another EK PE-360 (38mm thick) radiator to fit the Evolve X build, I use one of these, clean and easy /forum/images/smilies/smile.gif attaches directly to the front radiator as seen below in my current Evolve ATX, note you can see what Im saying about clearance to your graphics card.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Ok thanks. I can buy the 38mm but is a 38mm enough to cool two gpu?
> What are your top radiator?
> What are the max temp on gpu and CPU?
> Is there the possibility to fit the same pump using a 250mm tube extension?
> 
> Please answer all questions if you can.
> Thanks
Click to expand...

Currently I'm running a PE-360 radiator at the top and a PE-240 in the front with 2x GTX1070 and an overclocked 8700K with no heat issues, however I live in a hot climate so a second PE-360 instead of the PE-240 will reduce temps a bit further combined with the better airflow of the Evolve X. If you mount the pump res combo low enough you might be able to fit a taller res. EDIT: Nope 250mm res would not fit if you use pump res combo


----------



## hurricane28

sblantipodi said:


> Ok thanks. I can buy the 38mm but is a 38mm enough to cool two gpu?
> What are your top radiator?
> What are the max temp on gpu and CPU?
> Is there the possibility to fit the same pump using a 250mm tube extension?
> 
> Please answer all questions if you can.
> Thanks


Nope, a single 360 mm is not enough to cool 2 GPU and CPU. You need at least 360 + 240 mm or bigger.


----------



## sblantipodi

scracy said:


> Currently I'm running a PE-360 radiator at the top and a PE-240 in the front with 2x GTX1070 and an overclocked 8700K with no heat issues, however I live in a hot climate so a second PE-360 instead of the PE-240 will reduce temps a bit further combined with the better airflow of the Evolve X. If you mount the pump res combo low enough you might be able to fit a taller res. EDIT: Nope 250mm res would not fit if you use pump res combo


Hi really appreciate all the precious answers, thank you all guys.

Scracy so do you think that I can fit two PE 360 38mm, one on the front and one on the top?
do I have enough clearence for both 38mm rads and fans?

I will buy a Phanteks Evolv X and no the standard evolv, this video made me a little bit worried.






another question, is there a way to fit a 250 reservoire? I would really like to have it bigger


----------



## scracy

sblantipodi said:


> scracy said:
> 
> 
> 
> Currently I'm running a PE-360 radiator at the top and a PE-240 in the front with 2x GTX1070 and an overclocked 8700K with no heat issues, however I live in a hot climate so a second PE-360 instead of the PE-240 will reduce temps a bit further combined with the better airflow of the Evolve X. If you mount the pump res combo low enough you might be able to fit a taller res. EDIT: Nope 250mm res would not fit if you use pump res combo
> 
> 
> 
> Hi really appreciate all the precious answers, thank you all guys.
> 
> Scracy so do you think that I can fit two PE 360 38mm, one on the front and one on the top?
> do I have enough clearence for both 38mm rads and fans?
> 
> I will buy a Phanteks Evolv X and no the standard evolv, this video made me a little bit worried.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> another question, is there a way to fit a 250 reservoire? I would really like to have it bigger /forum/images/smilies/biggrin.gif
Click to expand...

I'm confident that you will be able to fit one PE-360 to the top and one PE-360 to the front, which is the main reason I'm buying the Evolve X. If you look at the Evolve X manual clearance should not be an issue. I saw that video and he is using thicker radiators than the PE series, you could buy the Hardware labs GTS 360 radiators which perform slightly better and they are only 30mm thick. You can buy res mounts to fit radiators (like the singularity computer ones) and mount the pump at the bottom if you really want to use a 250mm tall res, though really that would only be for looks. I'm hoping to have my Evolve X on Friday as that's when they will be available here in Australia so I will know more then, might be able to squeeze an XE-360 in the top.


----------



## sblantipodi

scracy said:


> I'm confident that you will be able to fit one PE-360 to the top and one PE-360 to the front, which is the main reason I'm buying the Evolve X. If you look at the Evolve X manual clearance should not be an issue. I saw that video and he is using thicker radiators than the PE series, you could buy the Hardware labs GTS 360 radiators which perform slightly better and they are only 30mm thick. You can buy res mounts to fit radiators (like the singularity computer ones) and mount the pump at the bottom if you really want to use a 250mm tall res, though really that would only be for looks. I'm hoping to have my Evolve X on Friday as that's when they will be available here in Australia so I will know more then, might be able to squeeze an XE-360 in the top.


can you update us as soon as you receive it please?
will you try to fit two PE360? or one PE360 and one XE360?

do you know if that case will have the space for the pumps and one hdd on the bottom if I put a 250mm reservoire?


----------



## scracy

sblantipodi said:


> scracy said:
> 
> 
> 
> I'm confident that you will be able to fit one PE-360 to the top and one PE-360 to the front, which is the main reason I'm buying the Evolve X. If you look at the Evolve X manual clearance should not be an issue. I saw that video and he is using thicker radiators than the PE series, you could buy the Hardware labs GTS 360 radiators which perform slightly better and they are only 30mm thick. You can buy res mounts to fit radiators (like the singularity computer ones) and mount the pump at the bottom if you really want to use a 250mm tall res, though really that would only be for looks. I'm hoping to have my Evolve X on Friday as that's when they will be available here in Australia so I will know more then, might be able to squeeze an XE-360 in the top.
> 
> 
> 
> can you update us as soon as you receive it please?
> will you try to fit two PE360? or one PE360 and one XE360?
> 
> do you know if that case will have the space for the pumps and one hdd on the bottom if I put a 250mm reservoire?
Click to expand...

I will update thread as soon as I get the case. I suggest you download the manual for the Evolve X as I don't use HDD. Edit: XE-360 is a no go radiator at top needs to be 45mm or less so 2xPE-360 looks to be the go.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Actually a single 360 can cool a Dual Gpu and single CPU setup, but if you're overclocking then it would be recommended to use a spare 120-240mm rad (you only need 120mm of rad space per component)


----------



## hurricane28

With loud and high rpm fans of course it can but since this is overclocknet instead underclock.net i wouldn't advice anyone to use only a single 360 mm radiator with 2 GPU and 1 CPU... 

I mean, my 360 mm radiator can handle my 2600x overclocked just fine but temps sometimes shoot up to 70c+ under heavy AVX loads with mid high ambient temp.


----------



## Doubletap1911

Anyone else a bit surprised that there were about 3 Evolve X reviews on Youtube and then NOTHING?

For a flagship case launch, that seems a bit thin.


----------



## sblantipodi

Doubletap1911 said:


> Anyone else a bit surprised that there were about 3 Evolve X reviews on Youtube and then NOTHING?
> 
> For a flagship case launch, that seems a bit thin.


Yes but where is this case. No shop have it in Italy


----------



## doyll

Doubletap1911 said:


> Anyone else a bit surprised that there were about 3 Evolve X reviews on Youtube and then NOTHING?
> 
> For a flagship case launch, that seems a bit thin.


While I'm only guessing the logical reason is the 3 cases used in reviews are pre-release cases, not actual production run. 

The first production run of cases are probably in containers, load on ships and on their way to USA, Europe and probably a few other places. Second load are about to go into containers and be shipped or are about to be put into containers, loaded on ships and shipped. Average container time from Shanghai Port, Ningbo Port to Los Angeles Port is approx 15 days with individual carriers being from 10-28 days depending on ship. China to Europe takes a little longer.


----------



## Deeptek

hurricane28 said:


> With loud and high rpm fans of course it can but since this is overclocknet instead underclock.net i wouldn't advice anyone to use only a single 360 mm radiator with 2 GPU and 1 CPU...
> 
> I mean, my 360 mm radiator can handle my 2600x overclocked just fine but temps sometimes shoot up to 70c+ under heavy AVX loads with mid high ambient temp.


A single 360 for a CPU is overkill. 70c is bad for that. What radiator are you using? Also, Ryzen runs hot..


----------



## sblantipodi

https://youtu.be/o6UAjQmg9Ho

This video on the old phanteks evolv really worried me. Please see it entirely, the pc is unusable due to temps.
He talks about 80c on the cpu and 60c on the GPUs on a system like the one I want to build.

I'm going to do a dual rad like that on the new evolv x, while evolv is better than the predecessor it can't do miracle in terms of air flow since the top still very closed.

Pretty sad, I really liked that case.


----------



## hurricane28

Deeptek said:


> A single 360 for a CPU is overkill. 70c is bad for that. What radiator are you using? Also, Ryzen runs hot..


I wanted to run silent and now i can with my 360 mm. Its an Alphacool nexxoss with 3x Noctua NF-F12 Industrial PPC 3000 RPm fans. 

The radiator soaks up the heat very fast and the fans only spin at 20-30% which is barely audible. They spin only at 1000 rpm until it hits 70 c and than it cools down that fast that they are at idle within minutes.


----------



## doyll

Deeptek said:


> A single 360 for a CPU is overkill. 70c is bad for that. What radiator are you using? Also, Ryzen runs hot..


While 360 rad is maybe a little overkill, if really pushing an extreme overclock it might be good to have. 

As @hurricane28 said, 360 will give quiet cooling. 


All this talk of 120mm of rad per component is not what I and most I now go by. We figure 240 of rad per component in the quest for near silent performance.




sblantipodi said:


> https://youtu.be/o6UAjQmg9Ho
> 
> This video on the old phanteks evolv really worried me. Please see it entirely, the pc is unusable due to temps.
> He talks about 80c on the cpu and 60c on the GPUs on a system like the one I want to build.
> 
> I'm going to do a dual rad like that on the new evolv x, while evolv is better than the predecessor it can't do miracle in terms of air flow since the top still very closed.
> 
> Pretty sad, I really liked that case.


After reading your post I see no reason to view the video. I have Evolv as do many others and the vast majority of us have found it to flow air rather nicely. Those who have problems with Evolv ATX will have problems with many cases. The only real airflow problem spot on Evolv is top, it lacks venting. Front is not bad. I'm running i7 920 @ 4.2GHz on air with KFA2 GTX 770 LTD OC with 25mm fan mod cool and quiet in Evolv ATX. This is a lot of heat and I have no issues .. it cools very well and very quiet.


----------



## sblantipodi

doyll said:


> While 360 rad is maybe a little overkill, if really pushing an extreme overclock it might be good to have.
> 
> As @hurricane28 said, 360 will give quiet cooling.
> 
> 
> All this talk of 120mm of rad per component is not what I and most I now go by. We figure 240 of rad per component in the quest for near silent performance.
> 
> 
> 
> After reading your post I see no reason to view the video. I have Evolv as do many others and the vast majority of us have found it to flow air rather nicely. Those who have problems with Evolv ATX will have problems with many cases. The only real airflow problem spot on Evolv is top, it lacks venting. Front is not bad. I'm running i7 920 @ 4.2GHz on air with KFA2 GTX 770 LTD OC with 25mm fan mod cool and quiet in Evolv ATX. This is a lot of heat and I have no issues .. it cools very well and very quiet.


hope that the evolv x will improve the situation since I'm going to put a Threadripper 2 2950X in it and a RTX2080Ti (probably two).
Two rads will produce a lot of heat to dissipate inside the case and the only way to make this hot air exhaust is on the top and on the 140mm on the back


----------



## doyll

sblantipodi said:


> hope that the evolv x will improve the situation since I'm going to put a Threadripper 2 2950X in it and a RTX2080Ti (probably two).
> Two rads will produce a lot of heat to dissipate inside the case and the only way to make this hot air exhaust is on the top and on the 140mm on the back


Sorry, but you can't 'dissipate heat inside the case', you have to dissipate heat to outside of case.  

Top and back are pretty normal places to exhaust heat with radiators. Some cases having bottom venting but using them as exhaust is problematic. 

I see no reason for all this worry about Evolv X. I've said it over and over and over, the Evolv X has 3x more front vent area and 5x more top vent area. I also keep saying Evolv front venting was fine for 99% of users .. top venting was problematic with more than a 240 rad, but still worked .. so 3 times more front and 5 times more top vent area will be a couple times more than 99% of users could ever need. 

The most common problem Evolv users had was they did not block holes in front and top panels not covered by radiator and/or fans .. as a result heated air circled from radiator circled back in front and back into motherboard compartment adding heated air to cool air going back through radiators or coolers .. and it doesn't take a rocket scientist to know components need cool air, not heated air.


----------



## ciarlatano

sblantipodi said:


> hope that the evolv x will improve the situation since I'm going to put a Threadripper 2 2950X in it and a RTX2080Ti (probably two).
> Two rads will produce a lot of heat to dissipate inside the case and the only way to make this hot air exhaust is on the top and on the 140mm on the back


I can't imagine you are going to have an issue. I've done small mods to an Evolv that do far less than what the X does out of the box and have had great results. Just make sure you go with rads that work well in the application. Liquid cooling needs to be approached holistically for proper results. In other words - if your case is a little restrictive, use rads like a Nemesis 360GTS which is built to cool with slower fan speeds and needs less airflow to be effective. Don't do something silly like put 60mm thick and/or 30 fpi rads in and then wonder why they can't cool anything.

BTW - just because it's on YouTube doesn't make it true. One reviewer who doesn't even build his own rigs holds far less weight than thousands of happy users here.


----------



## sblantipodi

the ek configurator now suggest me a 360 rad for the top (EK-CoolStream PE 360) 
and a 420 rad for the front (EK-CoolStream SE 420).

what do you think if I put the EK-CoolStream SE 420 instad of the EK-CoolStream CE 420 on the front?

will it fit?


----------



## ciarlatano

sblantipodi said:


> the ek configurator now suggest me a 360 rad for the top (EK-CoolStream PE 360)
> and a 420 rad for the front (EK-CoolStream SE 420).
> 
> what do you think if I put the EK-CoolStream SE 420 instad of the EK-CoolStream CE 420 on the front?
> 
> will it fit?


Hmmmm.....I think you should stop using the EK configurator and use better components. The SE series rads are literally the worst performing rads you can buy short of getting $10 aluminum no-name Chinese rads off of eBay.

Match your components to your system, and buy the best components for your system (excepting possibly a GPU block if no one else makes one for your card, none of them will have an EK logo). A generic configurator won't do that, it will only tell you "this part that we make will probably fit".


----------



## sblantipodi

ciarlatano said:


> Hmmmm.....I think you should stop using the EK configurator and use better components. The SE series rads are literally the worst performing rads you can buy short of getting $10 aluminum no-name Chinese rads off of eBay.
> 
> Match your components to your system, and buy the best components for your system (excepting possibly a GPU block if no one else makes one for your card, none of them will have an EK logo). A generic configurator won't do that, it will only tell you "this part that we make will probably fit".


infact I am using it to understand if it fit or not but I am starting to doubt that that configurator works at all.
he says that the case support a 460 and a 360 but how could it be possible?

in this video it clearly shows that the case wont fit two tall 360, how can it fit a 360 and a 420?

is there something I don't understand?

is the PE 360 from EK good? do you recommend it?


----------



## ciarlatano

sblantipodi said:


> infact I am using it to understand if it fit or not but I am starting to doubt that that configurator works at all.
> he says that the case support a 460 and a 360 but how could it be possible?
> 
> in this video it clearly shows that the case wont fit two tall 360, how can it fit a 360 and a 420?
> 
> is there something I don't understand?
> 
> is the PE 360 from EK good? do you recommend it?


As I stated previously, excepting a circumstance where EK is the only one who makes a block for a particular GPU, I wouldn't buy any of their components. I am using a Supremacy EVO right now on my CPU, and it's ok, but no way I would buy it again new. EK makes mostly mediocre components and sells them at top dollar. In every component category you can buy better components for less money.


----------



## sblantipodi

ciarlatano said:


> As I stated previously, excepting a circumstance where EK is the only one who makes a block for a particular GPU, I wouldn't buy any of their components. I am using a Supremacy EVO right now on my CPU, and it's ok, but no way I would buy it again new. EK makes mostly mediocre components and sells them at top dollar. In every component category you can buy better components for less money.


I'm not talking about quality, if you read my question I'm talking about fitting a 420mm 30mm and a 360mm 38mm in the case.


----------



## ciarlatano

sblantipodi said:


> I'm not talking about quality, if you read my question I'm talking about fitting a 420mm 30mm and a 360mm 38mm in the case.


You specifically asked "is the PE 360 from EK good? do you recommend it?". I answered that question.

And, no, the case will not fit a 420 anywhere without cutting it up. It would be even more chopped up trying to do it with a 360mm in there as well.


----------



## sblantipodi

ciarlatano said:


> You specifically asked "is the PE 360 from EK good? do you recommend it?". I answered that question.
> 
> And, no, the case will not fit a 420 anywhere without cutting it up. It would be even more chopped up trying to do it with a 360mm in there as well.


I am pretty sure that I can fit two 360mm since there are other people who fitted it in it.
What rad do you suggest instead of the EK? How many degrees will I lower on the CPU thanks to this improved rads?


----------



## ciarlatano

sblantipodi said:


> ciarlatano said:
> 
> 
> 
> You specifically asked "is the PE 360 from EK good? do you recommend it?". I answered that question.
> 
> And, no, the case will not fit a 420 anywhere without cutting it up. It would be even more chopped up trying to do it with a 360mm in there as well.
> 
> 
> 
> I am pretty sure that I can fit two 360mm since there are other people who fitted it in it.
> What rad do you suggest instead of the EK? How many degrees will I lower on the CPU thanks to this improved rads?
Click to expand...

Why cram in twob360s when a 360+280 fits comfortably?

I would use an HWL Nemesis 360 GTS up top, and an HWL 280mm SR2 in the front.


----------



## TheAbyss

ciarlatano said:


> Why cram in twob360s when a 360+280 fits comfortably?
> 
> I would use an HWL Nemesis 360 GTS up top, and an HWL 280mm SR2 in the front.


+1 vote for that combination, should yield ok-ish results, but if you really plan to cool 1 OCed TR2 + 2 2080TIs, that´s not going to be silent, you better get more rad Surface (in other words, a bigger case) or an external rad like a MoRa. Even my 2x420 Rads in my ripped-open Primo would have to work to dissipate the 650W+ those three components would unleash.


----------



## sblantipodi

ciarlatano said:


> Why cram in twob360s when a 360+280 fits comfortably?
> 
> I would use an HWL Nemesis 360 GTS up top, and an HWL 280mm SR2 in the front.


the nemesis seems very good from the review, thanks.
is it a lot better than an EK360 PerformanceEdition?

why use a 360 and a 280 when I can use two 360?
isn't two 360 better than one 360 and one 280?


----------



## TheAbyss

sblantipodi said:


> the nemesis seems very good from the review, thanks.
> is it a lot better than an EK360 PerformanceEdition?
> 
> why use a 360 and a 280 when I can use two 360?
> isn't two 360 better than one 360 and one 280?


No,, at least not noticeably. Just looking at the surface of a 360 (360x120) vs a 280 (280x140), you can see that a 360 has only a slight edge over the 280, and given that you can Mount a 280 easily while a 360 woulb be a tight fit, ciarlatano advised (correctly) to use a 280 instead. People Forget that a 280 is broader than a 360.


----------



## sblantipodi

TheAbyss said:


> No,, at least not noticeably. Just looking at the surface of a 360 (360x120) vs a 280 (280x140), you can see that a 360 has only a slight edge over the 280, and given that you can Mount a 280 easily while a 360 woulb be a tight fit, ciarlatano advised (correctly) to use a 280 instead. People Forget that a 280 is broader than a 360.


thanks for the suggestion.
is there a good site for radiators review?

I like the availability of the EK here in italy but as far as I read here they produces bad rads.


----------



## TheAbyss

sblantipodi said:


> thanks for the suggestion.
> is there a good site for radiators review?
> 
> I like the availability of the EK here in italy but as far as I read here they produces bad rads.


My personal opinion about this is, since they are very Close together. There are some Special occasions where you can really measure a difference (low rpm, high pressure fan configurations for example), and depending on the testing applied (in the US, fan rpm and noise are typically higher than in Europe), there are more or less differences. A quick summary of personal experiences:

1. Alphacool+EK: average Quality and Performance for a not-so average Price (that´s what ciarlatano meant as Bad I think)
2. Phobya: average Quality for a lower Price, especially the 420 v2 had a very good Price/Performance Ratio at the end of ist LifeCycle
3. HardwareLabs: by far my favourite rad, Quality-wise as well as Performance-wise. Keep in mind depending on the model, the 280/420 are even broader than comparable rads and have M4 screws instead of M3 (EUR) or UNC
4. Watercool / Aquacomputer: WC is working on a new design currently, both companies have good rads at a high pricepoint (with various extras like modularity).
5.Magicool: Budget-oriented rads, Need a fair bit of cleaning in comparison to the others, but are ok given their low Price. Early revisions had issues with warped connectors, so they were not so good for hard-tubing in Terms of parallel runs.
6.Barrow/Byksky/Bitspower: no idea, never had one.

I hope that helps... pay also Attention to fin Count (depending on the fans you are going to use).

At the end of the day, take all comparison with a grain of salt as they will all still be quite Close together in thermal character. I just used what I could fit and I could get my Hands on easily and cheap (If I had bought any of my rads new, I´d go for the HWL though! You know what I mean if you had one in your Hands....), but that may Change once the new WCs are out, but as it is a current decision for you, go with the ones above.


----------



## ciarlatano

sblantipodi said:


> why use a 360 and a 280 when I can use two 360?
> isn't two 360 better than one 360 and one 280?


There is only ~10% in surface area between a 360 and 280. Assuming similar quality, two 140mm fans will move the same amount of air as three 120mm fans and do so at a lower noise level. Given this, the difference in performance is almost nonexistent. So, a 360+280 is a quieter solution with the same performance that actually fits. Why make your case look and be crammed for no benefit? Unless you consider "more fan noise" to be a benefit. So. really, the question is "why use two 360 that don't fit properly, when you can use a 360+280 that do and will perform as well with less noise?".

The GTS and SR2 are better performing rads than the PE at tolerable noise levels. In other words, you get the same performance with lower noise levels, or better performance with the same noise levels.


----------



## sblantipodi

TheAbyss said:


> My personal opinion about this is, since they are very Close together. There are some Special occasions where you can really measure a difference (low rpm, high pressure fan configurations for example), and depending on the testing applied (in the US, fan rpm and noise are typically higher than in Europe), there are more or less differences. A quick summary of personal experiences:
> 
> 1. Alphacool+EK: average Quality and Performance for a not-so average Price (that´s what ciarlatano meant as Bad I think)
> 2. Phobya: average Quality for a lower Price, especially the 420 v2 had a very good Price/Performance Ratio at the end of ist LifeCycle
> 3. HardwareLabs: by far my favourite rad, Quality-wise as well as Performance-wise. Keep in mind depending on the model, the 280/420 are even broader than comparable rads and have M4 screws instead of M3 (EUR) or UNC
> 4. Watercool / Aquacomputer: WC is working on a new design currently, both companies have good rads at a high pricepoint (with various extras like modularity).
> 5.Magicool: Budget-oriented rads, Need a fair bit of cleaning in comparison to the others, but are ok given their low Price. Early revisions had issues with warped connectors, so they were not so good for hard-tubing in Terms of parallel runs.
> 6.Barrow/Byksky/Bitspower: no idea, never had one.
> 
> I hope that helps... pay also Attention to fin Count (depending on the fans you are going to use).
> 
> At the end of the day, take all comparison with a grain of salt as they will all still be quite Close together in thermal character. I just used what I could fit and I could get my Hands on easily and cheap (If I had bought any of my rads new, I´d go for the HWL though! You know what I mean if you had one in your Hands....), but that may Change once the new WCs are out, but as it is a current decision for you, go with the ones above.


thanks for the really good answer, I appreciate it.
prices are different from country to country. in Italy EK have better price than hardwarelabs and really really easyer to find in many shops.

said that, can I buy EK or the hardwarelabs are way better than it have no sense in buying the EK?

I'm reading this:
https://www.xtremerigs.net/2015/02/11/radiator-round-2015/5/

and it seems that the difference between the two rads are 5% in Watt dissipation.

Said that I will pay the hardwarelabs more than EK, can I buy the EK or there are some disadvantages that I don't know?

THANKS!!!!


----------



## sblantipodi

ciarlatano said:


> There is only ~10% in surface area between a 360 and 280. Assuming similar quality, two 140mm fans will move the same amount of air as three 120mm fans and do so at a lower noise level. Given this, the difference in performance is almost nonexistent. So, a 360+280 is a quieter solution with the same performance that actually fits. Why make your case look and be crammed for no benefit? Unless you consider "more fan noise" to be a benefit. So. really, the question is "why use two 360 that don't fit properly, when you can use a 360+280 that do and will perform as well with less noise?".
> 
> The GTS and SR2 are better performing rads than the PE at tolerable noise levels. In other words, you get the same performance with lower noise levels, or better performance with the same noise levels.


nice, I will go for a 360+280, thanks you guys, very appreciated.


----------



## paskowitz

Personally, I find EK rads to be really dull aesthetically. I would say, HWL have more of a % advantage at lower RPM vs EK rads. Mid and top RPMs are very close. HWL rads are relatively wide rads, so that needs to be considered (shouldn't be an issue in the Evolv). However, EK rads have kinda odd port placement, which makes placing the ports of one rad near another can sometimes cause clearance issues. Honestly, the difference isn't that significant.


One thing I would like to know is in the Evolv X, can you place a 420mm radiator in the front... but with the ports at the bottom?


----------



## scracy

sblantipodi said:


> can you update us as soon as you receive it please?
> will you try to fit two PE360? or one PE360 and one XE360?
> 
> do you know if that case will have the space for the pumps and one hdd on the bottom if I put a 250mm reservoire?


Behold Phanteks Evolve X arrived today, I can confirm 360mm radiator will easily fit at the front provided both radiators are no more than 45mm thick, from bottom of chassis to bottom of top radiator plate there is 473mm meaning 73mm of clearance if you were to use a EK PE360 or similar thickness and length radiator.


----------



## sblantipodi

scracy said:


> Behold Phanteks Evolve X arrived today, I can confirm 360mm radiator will easily fit at the front provided both radiators are no more than 45mm thick, from bottom of chassis to bottom of top radiator plate there is 473mm meaning 73mm of clearance if you were to use a EK PE360 or similar thickness and length radiator.


is this case that bad in watercooling as some others says?
is there someone here with this case watercooled?
is it that bad?


----------



## DarthBaggins

It was primarily air flow issues in the original Evolv, the Evolv X has improvements Phanteks took in account from it's customers


----------



## doyll

sblantipodi said:


> is this case that bad in watercooling as some others says?
> is there someone here with this case watercooled?
> is it that bad?


The Evolv X is not the same case as Evolv ATX. 

While some peeps had cooling issues with Evolv ATX most were caused by owners not knowing how to properly setup airflow. Mostly by not keeping cool intake air moving through motherboard compartment but letting it leak back in front of front intakes (not blocking openings not covered by fans/radiator) and the same with airflow into toop compartment leaking back into motherboard compartment. Both of these problems mean a significant amount of front intake airflow was circling back in front of fans .. and the same for airflow from motherboard compartment being pushed into top and circling back into motherboard compartment instead of out of case. 

Peeps owning Evolv ATX who blocked holes not covered by fans/radiator in front panel and top panels had few if any problems with airflow and cooling. 

Peeps who used Evolv ATX for air cooling and only blocked holes in front panel had no problems either.

Evolv X has 3 times more front vent area and 5 times more top vent area.

So the answer is no, there is no airflow problems if you use basic common sense airflow solutions, like blocking opening in panels not covered by fans / radiators.


----------



## ciarlatano

sblantipodi said:


> is this case that bad in watercooling as some others says?
> is there someone here with this case watercooled?
> is it that bad?


Who is saying the Evolv X has liquid cooling issues? I can't find a single post or review saying this.

As far as the Evolv ATX, 99% of the complaints were due to user error, as @doyll pointed out. It had some issues, but users doing horrible setups in the case accounted for almost all of the complaints. But, since you aren't going to be using an Evolv ATX, why would it matter?


----------



## sblantipodi

ciarlatano said:


> Who is saying the Evolv X has liquid cooling issues? I can't find a single post or review saying this.
> 
> As far as the Evolv ATX, 99% of the complaints were due to user error, as @doyll pointed out. It had some issues, but users doing horrible setups in the case accounted for almost all of the complaints. But, since you aren't going to be using an Evolv ATX, why would it matter?


no one said that yet but there are plenty of reviews of people complaining about airflow on older Evolv with watercooled systems acting like air cooled one just because of the restricted airflow.


----------



## ciarlatano

sblantipodi said:


> no one said that yet but there are plenty of reviews of people complaining about airflow on older Evolv with watercooled systems acting like air cooled one just because of the restricted airflow.


It
Is
A
Different
Case
.


----------



## sblantipodi

ciarlatano said:


> It
> Is
> A
> Different
> Case
> .


I bought it 
now will see what to put inside


----------



## ejb222

I want to buy the new Evolv X, but it appears preorders are sold out. Anyone have any idea when more will be available?


----------



## doyll

ejb222 said:


> I want to buy the new Evolv X, but it appears preorders are sold out. Anyone have any idea when more will be available?


Sorry, it appears you are correct. The original pre-sale sold out before it was even officially supposed to start, and the 9/24 pre-sale is now also sold out. 

With sales being a good as they are I expect Phanteks to have another shipment as soon as they can get more made and shipped. :thumb:


----------



## areksoo

ejb222 said:


> I want to buy the new Evolv X, but it appears preorders are sold out. Anyone have any idea when more will be available?





doyll said:


> Sorry, it appears you are correct. The original pre-sale sold out before it was even officially supposed to start, and the 9/24 pre-sale is now also sold out.
> 
> With sales being a good as they are I expect Phanteks to have another shipment as soon as they can get more made and shipped. :thumb:


I would keep a look out on Amazon.com. Phanteks kept saying Amazon and NewEgg will get their shipments for Sept 24th. NewEgg did a pre-order that is currently sold out. Doesn't look like Amazon bothered to do a pre-order.


----------



## ejb222

areksoo said:


> I would keep a look out on Amazon.com. Phanteks kept saying Amazon and NewEgg will get their shipments for Sept 24th. NewEgg did a pre-order that is currently sold out. Doesn't look like Amazon bothered to do a pre-order.


Thanks. Definitely keeping my eyes peeled


----------



## Avant Garde

Guys I have Evolv ATX TG case and Kraken X62. I want to front mount the radiator but without removing the bottom plate and HDD cage, do I have to drill some extra holes?
I want to do it just like on this photo


----------



## asdkj1740

Avant Garde said:


> Guys I have Evolv ATX TG case and Kraken X62. I want to front mount the radiator but without removing the bottom plate and HDD cage, do I have to drill some extra holes?
> I want to do it just like on this photo


pick x52.
evolv atx and pro m both have no proper cutout for 140/280mm fans/radiator.


----------



## ciarlatano

Avant Garde said:


> Guys I have Evolv ATX TG case and Kraken X62. I want to front mount the radiator but without removing the bottom plate and HDD cage, do I have to drill some extra holes?
> I want to do it just like on this photo


You will notice that the rad actually sits so that the top is above the mount. You can do this by using the elongated mounts for the 140mm fans. The top two screws will not pass through the case fan mounts, the screws will go through the fan directly into the rad. I had an HWL 280 GTX mounted this way with no ill effects.





asdkj1740 said:


> pick x52.
> evolv atx and pro m both have no proper cutout for 140/280mm fans/radiator.


Yeah...."proper" cutout. May lose 2% of the airflow...you lose a lot more going to a smaller rad and fans.


----------



## doyll

Avant Garde said:


> Guys I have Evolv ATX TG case and Kraken X62. I want to front mount the radiator but without removing the bottom plate and HDD cage, do I have to drill some extra holes?
> I want to do it just like on this photo


Sorry, I don't have an Asetek 280mm CLC radiators about to check fit. 
But I would suggest putting fittings to bottom so any air in system stays in top. With fittings at top like in pic if there is much air in system (there is always some) it will likely circulate through system and pump making more noise and/or trapping air in pump causing even worse problems (like pump failing) if pump outflow is lower than inflow.


----------



## asdkj1740

ciarlatano said:


> You will notice that the rad actually sits so that the top is above the mount. You can do this by using the elongated mounts for the 140mm fans. The top two screws will not pass through the case fan mounts, the screws will go through the fan directly into the rad. I had an HWL 280 GTX mounted this way with no ill effects.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah...."proper" cutout. May lose 2% of the airflow...you lose a lot more going to a smaller rad and fans.


this is, clearly, a design fault.


----------



## ciarlatano

asdkj1740 said:


> this is, clearly, a design fault.


Well, they changed it in the Evolv X to stop the nitpicking. Problem solved.


----------



## braindamage

Can the Evolv X fit a Hardware Labs 420mm radiator at the front without hitting the PSU shroud?


----------



## asdkj1740

ciarlatano said:


> Well, they changed it in the Evolv X to stop the nitpicking. Problem solved.


lol, goodest logic.

actually phanteks solved it on p400s, while brought it back on p300 & p350x, then solved it again. what a lovely phanteks.
it is a fault that should never exist. "solving" it on evolv x means nothing to current users of p300 p350x prom. stupid.


----------



## ciarlatano

asdkj1740 said:


> lol, goodest logic.
> 
> actually phanteks solved it on p400s, while brought it back on p300 & p350x, then solved it again. what a lovely phanteks.
> it is a fault that should never exist. "solving" it on evolv x means nothing to current users of p300 p350x prom. stupid.


Yes, it's an atrocity. Phanteks should have their cases pulled off the shelves, refund the purchase price to all existing users and have their case designers put to a death by a thousand cuts. That would not even begin to right the wrongs of the horror that they have thrust onto humanity with this design (that probably has zero affect on real world usage). Or, you could just get over it and move on.


----------



## asdkj1740

ciarlatano said:


> Yes, it's an atrocity. Phanteks should have their cases pulled off the shelves, refund the purchase price to all existing users and have their case designers put to a death by a thousand cuts. That would not even begin to right the wrongs of the horror that they have thrust onto humanity with this design (that probably has zero affect on real world usage). Or, you could just get over it and move on.


lol, fully triggered. 
fine, phanteks is the best.


----------



## ciarlatano

asdkj1740 said:


> lol, fully triggered.
> fine, phanteks is the best.


Or you just need some perspective on the issue. Saying that one needs to go from a 280mm to 240mm rad due to an issue that is a non-factor in actual use in the application is ridiculous. Yes, it's a flaw, but a small one not worth whining about ad nauseam. As I said, you need to get over it.


----------



## carlouws

braindamage said:


> Can the Evolv X fit a Hardware Labs 420mm radiator at the front without hitting the PSU shroud?


Judging by the published dimensions in the manual and the HardwareLabs 420 rad dimensions I would say that no. HWL 420 rad won't fit. I'm curious what would be a better combo, GTS 360 with GTX/SR2 360 or EK PE 360 with EK CE 420.


----------



## Avant Garde

Guys no need to argue with your colleagues, I just want to do a proper front mount, to look as clean as possible without losing hdd cage


----------



## Avant Garde

Some people here posted a couple of pics with front mounted X62 but I can't seem to find the gallery with this new forum layout. If I have to drill some holes I would like to know where exactly to drill them, it is certainly doable but there are no many details about the operation...


----------



## ciarlatano

Avant Garde said:


> Some people here posted a couple of pics with front mounted X62 but I can't seem to find the gallery with this new forum layout. If I have to drill some holes I would like to know where exactly to drill them, it is certainly doable but there are no many details about the operation...


Refer to my first reply to your post. You should be able to mount using the elongated 140mm mounts without the need to drill any holes.


----------



## Avant Garde

I've found it. This guy did it, although with most likely push-pull front config.
https://www.overclock.net/forum/161...se-phanteks-case-club-lovers-owners-1648.html


----------



## ciarlatano

Avant Garde said:


> I've found it. This guy did it, although with most likely push-pull front config.
> https://www.overclock.net/forum/161...se-phanteks-case-club-lovers-owners-1648.html


That is a 240mm rad, not a 280mm like you have.


----------



## Avant Garde

I thought it was 280mm....


----------



## Fritzz

Anyone who has gotten the new Evolve X, what is the max GPU length if you have the 3.5" HDD cages installed in the main chamber?

Thanks!


----------



## Phanteks_Care

the max GPU length with the 3.5" HDD cage installed is 296mm


----------



## doyll

Good to see someone from Phanteks post up on thread. We haven't had a Phanteks official here for awhile. :thumb:


----------



## MoDeNa

I am thinking in building a new rig based on a Evolv X with a custom liquid cooling solution. The radiators I was thinking of were the HWL GTX 420 in the front and the GTX 280 for the top, but as someone mentioned some posts above, they might not fit. I need to investigate which 420 rads would fit in the front with a proper balance between low rpms and performance (8700k @ 5 Ghz and 1080 Ti @ 2000 Mhz)

I need to wait and see if this case solved the air flow problems from the original Evolv, as some reviews are anticipating. Let me be doubtful at this respect.


----------



## whutt

MoDeNa said:


> I am thinking in building a new rig based on a Evolv X with a custom liquid cooling solution. The radiators I was thinking of were the HWL GTX 420 in the front and the GTX 280 for the top, but as someone mentioned some posts above, they might not fit. I need to investigate which 420 rads would fit in the front with a proper balance between low rpms and performance (8700k @ 5 Ghz and 1080 Ti @ 2000 Mhz)
> 
> I need to wait and see if this case solved the air flow problems from the original Evolv, as some reviews are anticipating. Let me be doubtful at this respect.


Pending reviews as well, I plan on putting a 420 & 360 rad in an Evolv X. If they don't fit, then out comes the dremel or I switch to an R6.

Currently running a 1950x + 1070 on heatkiller blocks.


----------



## SomebodyOnce

So, i waited, waited and waited and it finally came. While most of retailers in my country claimed the case is not avaliable till October one of them had them in stock and shipped within 24 hours. The anthracite grey beauty. Made a not-that-short unboxing video that goes over most of case features www.youtube.com/watch?v=noxx18lh0kM and a gallery with some photos https://imgur.com/gallery/CfahSbf


----------



## Aurealnight

Can anyone here with a Phanteks Enthoo Primo explain what is necessary to fit a 480mm radiator on the bottom of the case? I'm hitting a wall literally and I'm trying to find a straight answer as to how one can remove the wall/panel with the Phanteks label on it.
The user manual says one will fit but is that assuming you would have to mod the case and take a dremel to it or is there a sequence of screws that need to be removed in order to take that panel out? I've seen plenty of pictures of the case with 480mm rads on the bottom but nothing explaining how it was done, mod or not.

Sent from my SM-N950U1 using Tapatalk


----------



## PetrasSukys

Aurealnight said:


> Can anyone here with a Phanteks Enthoo Primo explain what is necessary to fit a 480mm radiator on the bottom of the case? I'm hitting a wall literally and I'm trying to find a straight answer as to how one can remove the wall/panel with the Phanteks label on it.
> The user manual says one will fit but is that assuming you would have to mod the case and take a dremel to it or is there a sequence of screws that need to be removed in order to take that panel out? I've seen plenty of pictures of the case with 480mm rads on the bottom but nothing explaining how it was done, mod or not.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N950U1 using Tapatalk


Depends on the particular radiator you are trying to fit. I have Alphacool Monsta 480 in my Primo. I have removed "the panel with Phanteks label" by unscrewing it. There are screws in the front (you have to remove the whole plastic front panel to access those), on top (you have to remove the plastic panel, too) and bottom (you have to remove the plastic feet/base part).

And even then it was really really hard to put it back in, easier way (and that's how I've done the second time) is to remove the top of the case entirely. It also is just screwed with a lot of screws around the top perimeter and underneath the top plastic panels (both the one that covers fans and the one with LED strip/USB ports/reset button).

If you have any more questions, feel free to PM.


----------



## SomebodyOnce

Phanteks Evolv X RGB lighting explored 



 checked every cable and every connector to see what it does and how to sync the case with other addressable RGB stuff (non-phanteks/custom made) and how to sync whole case with motherboards.


----------



## asdkj1740

edited: 
del. i got it now.


----------



## SomebodyOnce

This is so great. I just put together my system into Evolv X. Even with just one fan it already beat the crap out of S340 Elite (that had two exhausts).


----------



## Avant Garde

Anyone using Phanteks Evolv TG 140mm case fans for Kraken X62 push-pull?


----------



## shaolin95

Hey guys. VERY interested in the Evolv X to upgrade from my HAF-X (with 932 side panel) for my new build. Of course, I dont expect the same air flow as my HAF but still a bit concerned about this trend of great looking glass but no side air for the GPU. So based on some tests I have seen, I wanted to place the AIO in front so that hot air from the GPU wouldnt end up going into the CPU cooler. 
The catch is...I have lots of HDDs so I was going to be using the HDDs near the front area so is there really no space to place an AIO radiator there? I guess my other option is placing the radiator on top and then getting a 1080ti with hybrid cooler so most of the heat gets pushed out...
Or of course...just keep my HAF-X even though looks are a bit dated by now.
Thanks


----------



## zoneuk

Hi guys im looking for some advice.
I have a Primo and im looking for something smaller I was thinking a evolv
Is the EVolv X a good choice and would is worth upgrading to over he evlov ATX is now available much cheaper.


----------



## MoDeNa

Does anyone know if there is an update expected for the Enthoo Primo?


----------



## lightsout

Thoughts on the P400s?

I bought one and didn't really consider that airflow would be worse than my enthoo pro m. 

My CPU is running hot (5820k 1.2v) I also didn't realize my cooler wouldn't fit right (Mugen max) The cooler fits but the push fan doesn't because it has sit high on this board. Even with the low pro ram I have your can't have any ram on the right side of the board with the fan on properly. So I had to zip tie a 120mm for the push fan.

It's got me kind of rethinking my cooling setup. I currently have two 140mms for intakes but I don't think they have any airflow at all.

I went away from AIOs a while ago but I have been thinking about them again. Not sure it would help much.

Anyone ever put dual 140s up to add intakes and have a single rear fan? Seems like with the current config I'm starved for fresh intake air.


----------



## doyll

shaolin95 said:


> Hey guys. VERY interested in the Evolv X to upgrade from my HAF-X (with 932 side panel) for my new build. Of course, I dont expect the same air flow as my HAF but still a bit concerned about this trend of great looking glass but no side air for the GPU. So based on some tests I have seen, I wanted to place the AIO in front so that hot air from the GPU wouldnt end up going into the CPU cooler.
> The catch is...I have lots of HDDs so I was going to be using the HDDs near the front area so is there really no space to place an AIO radiator there? I guess my other option is placing the radiator on top and then getting a 1080ti with hybrid cooler so most of the heat gets pushed out...
> Or of course...just keep my HAF-X even though looks are a bit dated by now.
> Thanks


In my experience side venting is only marginally if of any help when air cooling a system. If sided vent is below GPU it sometimes helps as an intake but as most are not they do little good and sometimes cause higher component temps. Reason is best airflow is front to back so cool air gets to component intake fans and flow on toward back moving heated air coming out of component on back and out of case without mixing with cool intake airflow. I've found removing PCIe back slot covers usually improves front to back airflow around GPU which lowers component temps at high load use.


----------



## doyll

zoneuk said:


> Hi guys im looking for some advice.
> I have a Primo and im looking for something smaller I was thinking a evolv
> Is the EVolv X a good choice and would is worth upgrading to over he evlov ATX is now available much cheaper.


While I have not used an Evovl X, I have used Evolv ATX and Primo. Primo has much better airflow than Evolv ATX but I think Evolv X will perform well. Evolv X has 3x more front and 5x more top bent area than Evolv ATX and my Evolv ATX cools i7 980 & KFA2 GTX 770 LTD OC with no problems at all, so with 3x more front to back venting you should be fine.



MoDeNa said:


> Does anyone know if there is an update expected for the Enthoo Primo?


I have heard nothing about upgrading Primo. What would you want upgraded? I'm guessing the front I/O?



lightsout said:


> Thoughts on the P400s?
> 
> I bought one and didn't really consider that airflow would be worse than my enthoo pro m.
> 
> My CPU is running hot (5820k 1.2v) I also didn't realize my cooler wouldn't fit right (Mugen max) The cooler fits but the push fan doesn't because it has sit high on this board. Even with the low pro ram I have your can't have any ram on the right side of the board with the fan on properly. So I had to zip tie a 120mm for the push fan.
> 
> It's got me kind of rethinking my cooling setup. I currently have two 140mms for intakes but I don't think they have any airflow at all.
> 
> I went away from AIOs a while ago but I have been thinking about them again. Not sure it would help much.
> 
> Anyone ever put dual 140s up to add intakes and have a single rear fan? Seems like with the current config I'm starved for fresh intake air.


Yeah, Eclipes P400S only has 160mm CPU clearance so Mugun Max at 161mm is a tight fit with only at total of 166mm for front fan and RAM meaning any RAM over 26mm tall will not leave enough room for a 140mm fan to fit.

What 140mm front intake fans are you using? Maybe they do not have high enough pressure rating to overcome the P400S's limited front venting. 

Easy way to check front airflow is remove front cover and compare temps with what they are with it on. 

Cases always flow same amount of air in as out. That's simple physics of airflow (volume in = volume out). Case airflow cannot be more than the lesser of the intake or exhaust vent area. What flows in must flow out / what flows out much first flow in.

I have a P400S and found it marginally above to flow enough air, but I'm spoiled by having a many higher priced better cases. The Eclipse case line is entry level and not near as well designed as most other Phanteks cases.


----------



## lightsout

doyll said:


> While I have not used an Evovl X, I have used Evolv ATX and Primo. Primo has much better airflow than Evolv ATX but I think Evolv X will perform well. Evolv X has 3x more front and 5x more top bent area than Evolv ATX and my Evolv ATX cools i7 980 & KFA2 GTX 770 LTD OC with no problems at all, so with 3x more front to back venting you should be fine.
> 
> 
> I have heard nothing about upgrading Primo. What would you want upgraded? I'm guessing the front I/O?
> 
> 
> Yeah, Eclipes P400S only has 160mm CPU clearance so Mugun Max at 161mm is a tight fit with only at total of 166mm for front fan and RAM meaning any RAM over 26mm tall will not leave enough room for a 140mm fan to fit.
> 
> What 140mm front intake fans are you using? Maybe they do not have high enough pressure rating to overcome the P400S's limited front venting.
> 
> Easy way to check front airflow is remove front cover and compare temps with what they are with it on.
> 
> Cases always flow same amount of air in as out. That's simple physics of airflow (volume in = volume out). Case airflow cannot be more than the lesser of the intake or exhaust vent area. What flows in must flow out / what flows out much first flow in.
> 
> I have a P400S and found it marginally above to flow enough air, but I'm spoiled by having a many higher priced better cases. The Eclipse case line is entry level and not near as well designed as most other Phanteks cases.


Thanks. It seems like no ram could fit. I have Corsair vengeance which is basically the smallest heat spreader. I'm not sure bare ram would fit with the fan on properly.

I have the stock fan that came with the case on the bottom front, and a PH-F140HP above it. That one is what I had on the cooler in push pull in the previous case.

I was thinking the same thing about the front panel. I'm sure it's going to help a lot but it kind of seems pointless unless I plan to keep it off. If I could find a nice magnetic screen that fit I'd consider it.


----------



## doyll

lightsout said:


> Thanks. It seems like no ram could fit. I have Corsair vengeance which is basically the smallest heat spreader. I'm not sure bare ram would fit with the fan on properly.
> 
> I have the stock fan that came with the case on the bottom front, and a PH-F140HP above it. That one is what I had on the cooler in push pull in the previous case.
> 
> I was thinking the same thing about the front panel. I'm sure it's going to help a lot but it kind of seems pointless unless I plan to keep it off. If I could find a nice magnetic screen that fit I'd consider it.


Just for info Corsair says Vengeance LPX is 33.5mm tall while their shorter Vengeance LP is 26.5mm tall .. even Vengeance LP is about 1.5mm too tall to fit a 140mm fan over in case with 160mm CPU clearance by 0.5mm. Obviously that 160mm spec is conservative because you have fit Mugen Max which is 161mm tall, and I'm guessing Mugen Max is touching case side? 

Normal DDR4 PCB official specification is 31.35mm and DDR3 is 30mm. 

Both of those fans have good pressure ratings, about as good as anything out there without being higher rpm and making much more noise.

I had an idea for some extensions to fit over stock front clip pins and allow front to clip onto them that would move front cover forward about 6mm .. and 6mm all the way around would be a lot more front vent area. Below is the rough drawing of pin extension. I think someone with a 3D printer could probably do them fairly easily.


----------



## lightsout

doyll said:


> Just for info Corsair says Vengeance LPX is 33.5mm tall while their shorter Vengeance LP is 26.5mm tall .. even Vengeance LP is about 1.5mm too tall to fit a 140mm fan over in case with 160mm CPU clearance by 0.5mm. Obviously that 160mm spec is conservative because you have fit Mugen Max which is 161mm tall, and I'm guessing Mugen Max is touching case side?
> 
> Normal DDR4 PCB official specification is 31.35mm and DDR3 is 30mm.
> 
> Both of those fans have good pressure ratings, about as good as anything out there without being higher rpm and making much more noise.
> 
> I had an idea for some extensions to fit over stock front clip pins and allow front to clip onto them that would move front cover forward about 6mm .. and 6mm all the way around would be a lot more front vent area. Below is the rough drawing of pin extension. I think someone with a 3D printer could probably do them fairly easily.


I stand corrected on the ram, thanks for your help as always man. Those extensions look really sweet. That's a great idea. 

I'm mildly considering returning the case while I have time. Off the top of your head is there anything under $100 that would be a much better case, for an air cooled single GPU system. That fits an ATX board.

Would need to be from Amazon, and hopefully tempered glass. There are many at this price point. I stuck with Phanteks because I was very happy last time with the enthoo


----------



## doyll

lightsout said:


> I stand corrected on the ram, thanks for your help as always man. Those extensions look really sweet. That's a great idea.
> 
> I'm mildly considering returning the case while I have time. Off the top of your head is there anything under $100 that would be a much better case, for an air cooled single GPU system. That fits an ATX board.
> 
> Would need to be from Amazon, and hopefully tempered glass. There are many at this price point. I stuck with Phanteks because I was very happy last time with the enthoo


Which Enthoo did you have? Too lazy to see if it's in previous posts. 

Cheapest would probably be Eclipse P350X for $59.99 with only one 120mm fan. 
https://www.amazon.com/Phanteks-Ecl...=UTF8&qid=1538753305&sr=1-3&keywords=phanteks

Fractal Design Meshify C is pretty good but they start at $80 and need all new fans because their stock ones are basically worthless.

Enthoo Pro (not Pro M) is good and comes with 2 good fans so with both in front should be good to go. Enthoo Pro and Enthoo Luxe use same basic case with different fronts and tops. Bottom vent filters can easily be made into one long filter that slided out front so case does not need to be moved to clean either front or bottom filters. 
https://www.amazon.com/Phanteks-Ent...=UTF8&qid=1538753305&sr=1-7&keywords=phanteks

Edit: Keep in mind the Phanteks Eclipse case line is an entry level case line without all the nice features in most of their other cases. Kinda like comparing a Hugo to a BMW .. both will get you there but ridign in one will be a much nicer trip.


----------



## lightsout

doyll said:


> Which Enthoo did you have? Too lazy to see if it's in previous posts.
> 
> Cheapest would probably be Eclipse P350X for $59.99 with only one 120mm fan.
> https://www.amazon.com/Phanteks-Ecl...=UTF8&qid=1538753305&sr=1-3&keywords=phanteks
> 
> Fractal Design Meshify C is pretty good but they start at $80 and need all new fans because their stock ones are basically worthless.
> 
> Enthoo Pro (not Pro M) is good and comes with 2 good fans so with both in front should be good to go. Enthoo Pro and Enthoo Luxe use same basic case with different fronts and tops. Bottom vent filters can easily be made into one long filter that slided out front so case does not need to be moved to clean either front or bottom filters.
> https://www.amazon.com/Phanteks-Ent...=UTF8&qid=1538753305&sr=1-7&keywords=phanteks
> 
> Edit: Keep in mind the Phanteks Eclipse case line is an entry level case line without all the nice features in most of their other cases. Kinda like comparing a Hugo to a BMW .. both will get you there but ridign in one will be a much nicer trip.


I have the Enthoo Pro M, I pulled this CPU/Mobo out of it and am using it as my server with a different CPU setup. Thanks for the links, I like the look of the Eclipse, but yeah once you start building you realize why they are so cheap. I'll have to look more into it.


----------



## doyll

lightsout said:


> I have the Enthoo Pro M, I pulled this CPU/Mobo out of it and am using it as my server with a different CPU setup. Thanks for the links, I like the look of the Eclipse, but yeah once you start building you realize why they are so cheap. I'll have to look more into it.


Enthoo Pro M is a good case. Same basic case as Enthoo Evolv ATX with different outside panels.


----------



## lightsout

doyll said:


> Enthoo Pro M is a good case. Same basic case as Enthoo Evolv ATX with different outside panels.


Yeah I like it a lot. Don't love the hole in the PSU shroud. Was just looking for something different this time. Maybe a little smaller.


----------



## lightsout

Put in the return on the P400, not sure what I'll do, kind of a pain to tear down everything but once its done its done. Seems like theres not a ton of options with the current case and its airflow, don't really want to go super loud. Was looking at cases, I know this is the Phanteks thread but was scoping Corsair, not really liking what I am seeing there. At least not at my price point.


EDIT** Just pulled the trigger on the Enthoo Pro M Special Edition, RGB rings and white interior got me. Thanks for the help!


----------



## bajer29

lightsout said:


> Put in the return on the P400, not sure what I'll do, kind of a pain to tear down everything but once its done its done. Seems like theres not a ton of options with the current case and its airflow, don't really want to go super loud. Was looking at cases, I know this is the Phanteks thread but was scoping Corsair, not really liking what I am seeing there. At least not at my price point.
> 
> 
> EDIT** Just pulled the trigger on the Enthoo Pro M Special Edition, RGB rings and white interior got me. Thanks for the help!


The white interior got me too... You can take a look at my pictures in my sig rig if you'd like to get a feel for how it looks with at least air cooling. I think it's a really aesthetically pleasing case :thumb:


----------



## lightsout

bajer29 said:


> The white interior got me too... You can take a look at my pictures in my sig rig if you'd like to get a feel for how it looks with at least air cooling. I think it's a really aesthetically pleasing case :thumb:


Thanks a lot man thats helpful , looks cool. 2 questions.

1. I really like the look of that air cooler, how does it cool that 4790k and is it overvolted? I wonder how it compares to a phanteks I have my eye on

https://www.amazon.com/Phanteks-Hea...D=51%2BmxiqR1jL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

2. What are you using for lighting? Just some generic rgb lighting or something else? 
I like the little strip the P400 came with, its a Phantek rgb which instead of the sticky thin stuff its got magnets, easy to move around.


----------



## doyll

lightsout said:


> Put in the return on the P400, not sure what I'll do, kind of a pain to tear down everything but once its done its done. Seems like theres not a ton of options with the current case and its airflow, don't really want to go super loud. Was looking at cases, I know this is the Phanteks thread but was scoping Corsair, not really liking what I am seeing there. At least not at my price point.
> 
> 
> EDIT** Just pulled the trigger on the Enthoo Pro M Special Edition, RGB rings and white interior got me. Thanks for the help!


After having Enthoo Pro M I pretty sure you would not like the quality of Corsair cases. Big difference between the two.


----------



## ciarlatano

doyll said:


> After having Enthoo Pro M I pretty sure you would not like the quality of Corsair cases. Big difference between the two.


That is for sure. Like comparing a Bentley and a Toyota.


----------



## lightsout

doyll said:


> After having Enthoo Pro M I pretty sure you would not like the quality of Corsair cases. Big difference between the two.


Oh really? Wow, I have had one at it was the 550D, at the time it was the best case I had ever had, but it had terrible air flow as well lol.


----------



## bajer29

lightsout said:


> Thanks a lot man thats helpful , looks cool. 2 questions.
> 
> 1. I really like the look of that air cooler, how does it cool that 4790k and is it overvolted? I wonder how it compares to a phanteks I have my eye on
> 
> https://www.amazon.com/Phanteks-Hea...D=51%2BmxiqR1jL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch
> 
> 2. What are you using for lighting? Just some generic rgb lighting or something else?
> I like the little strip the P400 came with, its a Phantek rgb which instead of the sticky thin stuff its got magnets, easy to move around.


It never goes above 50C stock (no overvolting) while playing pretty much any game in my library. It's a CRYORIG R1 Ultimate. Love this cooler.

I used these (I'm just using the case's built-in RGB controller):

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01HUFMIZ2/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I really don't like RGB in the way that people like to do crazy effects and whatnot. I just like the white and from time to time I'll mix it up for the holidays lol


----------



## lightsout

bajer29 said:


> It never goes above 50C stock (no overvolting) while playing pretty much any game in my library. It's a CRYORIG R1 Ultimate. Love this cooler.
> 
> I used these (I'm just using the case's built-in RGB controller):
> 
> https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01HUFMIZ2/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
> 
> I really don't like RGB in the way that people like to do crazy effects and whatnot. I just like the white and from time to time I'll mix it up for the holidays lol


Wow great temps. I know things change quickly when overclocking but still.

Yeah I'm not looking for crazy RGB but like to have cASE lighting.

Thanks man.


----------



## d0mini

Hi phanteks owners. I am thinking of buying the enthoo elite case. I like the look of the black version over the grey, but the grey is £100 less here in the uk (£850 vs £750 including shipping). I’m lucky enough to have the money, but is it worth it?

*Requirements*: silence, extreme watercooling support and style. This case has all of that and even has a place for my current m-itx motherboard if i decided to keep it.

*Pricing*: The most I’ve spent on a case was £225 for an Ncase M1. In total, £498.39 on cases including a 300r, 380t, Ncase M1 and the Thermaltake F51 Suppressor TG since 2013. This... would be a step up in price.

*Weight*: I live on the 3rd (4th for America) floor of a tall house. The case + carrying case weighs 47KG. A full system could be upwards of 50KG. I intend to move in a few months. I’m fairly strong but that sounds... daunting.


*A*. Am I insane for wanting to buy this case while in my current residence?

*B*. Having established questionable sanity in A, just how much more insane could I be for wanting the black version in spite of it costing £100 more?


Apologies for this personal/slightly rambling post. OCN is my family when it comes to things like this. I don’t have anyone else to ask.


----------



## doyll

lightsout said:


> I wonder how it compares to a phanteks I have my eye on
> 
> https://www.amazon.com/Phanteks-Hea...D=51%2BmxiqR1jL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch


Cryorig R1 is very good cooler. I changed fans on mine 1st to TY-147A and then to PH-F140HP-II.



lightsout said:


> Thanks a lot man thats helpful , looks cool. 2 questions.
> 
> 1. I really like the look of that air cooler, how does it cool that 4790k and is it overvolted? I wonder how it compares to a phanteks I have my eye on
> 
> https://www.amazon.com/Phanteks-Hea...D=51%2BmxiqR1jL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch
> 
> 2. What are you using for lighting? Just some generic rgb lighting or something else?
> I like the little strip the P400 came with, its a Phantek rgb which instead of the sticky thin stuff its got magnets, easy to move around.


I've used and tested PH-TC14PE both original 2-piece finned and new 1-piece finned coolers with all three fans they have been sold with over the years. The original 2-piece finned models with good quality control are a little better than new 1-piece finned model, but the PH-F140HP_II fans on new models are much better giving about 2c lower temps than older model cooler with older model fans. 

Easily as good as Mugen, maybe a little better. 

As for other coolers to consider the Thermalright Le Grand Macho RT is definitely as good and a little quieter; also TRUE Spirit 140 Power is also very good but very tall (171mm and very wide (155mm). For only $49.99 the TRUE Spirit 140 Power is probably best price to performance ratio there is. 
https://www.amazon.com/Thermalright...?srs=2530612011&ie=UTF8&qid=1538830610&sr=8-3





ciarlatano said:


> That is for sure. Like comparing a Bentley and a Toyota.


I was thinking BWM to Hugo, but similar difference. Do you really think Phanteks is 'Bentley' as in best luxury car made or more like a BMW with some others of equal quality?




lightsout said:


> Oh really? Wow, I have had one at it was the 550D, at the time it was the best case I had ever had, but it had terrible air flow as well lol.


I've found Phanteks cases to be much better built with more attention to details and user features like cable tie points, almost no sharp edges, etc.





d0mini said:


> Hi phanteks owners. I am thinking of buying the enthoo elite case. I like the look of the black version over the grey, but the grey is £100 less here in the uk (£850 vs £750 including shipping). I’m lucky enough to have the money, but is it worth it?
> 
> *Requirements*: silence, extreme watercooling support and style. This case has all of that and even has a place for my current m-itx motherboard if i decided to keep it.
> 
> *Pricing*: The most I’ve spent on a case was £225 for an Ncase M1. In total, £498.39 on cases including a 300r, 380t, Ncase M1 and the Thermaltake F51 Suppressor TG since 2013. This... would be a step up in price.
> 
> *Weight*: I live on the 3rd (4th for America) floor of a tall house. The case + carrying case weighs 47KG. A full system could be upwards of 50KG. I intend to move in a few months. I’m fairly strong but that sounds... daunting.
> 
> *A*. Am I insane for wanting to buy this case while in my current residence?
> 
> *B*. Having established questionable sanity in A, just how much more insane could I be for wanting the black version in spite of it costing £100 more?
> 
> 
> Apologies for this personal/slightly rambling post. OCN is my family when it comes to things like this. I don’t have anyone else to ask.


Phanteks Enthoo Elite is an extremely nice case, but it is also extremely large being 270 mm x 750 mm x 615 mm (W x H x D) .. that is as tall as but not quite as deep as a big desk (1520x750x750mm is typical executive desk size). And for something this big and heavy a castor base becomes almost essential to be able to move it for cleaning .. and that would increase it's height by about another 45mm. Your Thermaltake F51 Suppressor TG is much smaller at 525 x 230 x 577mm .. Elite is like 40mm wider, 90mm deeper and 173mm taller than your F51. 

You say it weights 47kg and 50kg built. I don't think you can build an extreme water cooling system that is only 3kg. Easy way to determine how much compnent weight is would be to weight your current F51 system and subtract 13.7kg (weight of case. 

If you do decide to go with Elite, get yourself a dolly and a web-strap to strap carrying case to dolly so you can move it .. and have someone to help you move it up and down stairs. Where would you keep Elite's shipping case? Lay it flat and use it as a coffee table. 

Sorry for being such a downer here. I wanted to get an Elite myself but decided it was just too big and heavy to be practical. 

Have you looked at Enthoo Primo? It is 250mm x 650mm x 600mm (WxHxD) and weights 17.9kg. It's well built with room for up to 480mm top and bottom rads and 240mm front. If you like to look at one I'm in UK so drop me a PM. Maybe we can setup a meet for you to do a hands on look at the Primo I have.


----------



## lightsout

doyll said:


> Cryorig R1 is very good cooler. I changed fans on mine 1st to TY-147A and then to PH-F140HP-II.
> 
> 
> I've used and tested PH-TC14PE both original 2-piece finned and new 1-piece finned coolers with all three fans they have been sold with over the years. The original 2-piece finned models with good quality control are a little better than new 1-piece finned model, but the PH-F140HP_II fans on new models are much better giving about 2c lower temps than older model cooler with older model fans.
> 
> Easily as good as Mugen, maybe a little better.
> 
> As for other coolers to consider the Thermalright Le Grand Macho RT is definitely as good and a little quieter; also TRUE Spirit 140 Power is also very good but very tall (171mm and very wide (155mm). For only $49.99 the TRUE Spirit 140 Power is probably best price to performance ratio there is.
> https://www.amazon.com/Thermalright...?srs=2530612011&ie=UTF8&qid=1538830610&sr=8-3


Thanks, right now I'm really liking the look of the cryorig, I already have two of the Phanteks fans mentioned.

I'm going to put everything I currently have in the enthoo when it shows up and see how she does, I had better performance with the 140 on the front. From reading reviews the Mugen Max hangs with a lot of coolers so I think it should do ok.

Right now I'm stuck with an old SP120 for push on the Mugen and I forgot how loud they are even on the lowest settings. Annoying.


----------



## d0mini

doyll said:


> Phanteks Enthoo Elite is an extremely nice case, but it is also extremely large being 270 mm x 750 mm x 615 mm (W x H x D) .. that is as tall as but not quite as deep as a big desk (1520x750x750mm is typical executive desk size). And for something this big and heavy a castor base becomes almost essential to be able to move it for cleaning .. and that would increase it's height by about another 45mm. Your Thermaltake F51 Suppressor TG is much smaller at 525 x 230 x 577mm .. Elite is like 40mm wider, 90mm deeper and 173mm taller than your F51.
> 
> You say it weights 47kg and 50kg built. I don't think you can build an extreme water cooling system that is only 3kg. Easy way to determine how much compnent weight is would be to weight your current F51 system and subtract 13.7kg (weight of case.
> 
> If you do decide to go with Elite, get yourself a dolly and a web-strap to strap carrying case to dolly so you can move it .. and have someone to help you move it up and down stairs. Where would you keep Elite's shipping case? Lay it flat and use it as a coffee table.
> 
> Sorry for being such a downer here. I wanted to get an Elite myself but decided it was just too big and heavy to be practical.
> 
> Have you looked at Enthoo Primo? It is 250mm x 650mm x 600mm (WxHxD) and weights 17.9kg. It's well built with room for up to 480mm top and bottom rads and 240mm front. If you like to look at one I'm in UK so drop me a PM. Maybe we can setup a meet for you to do a hands on look at the Primo I have.



Hey Doyll, nice to see you so active on the forum even through its... difficult times. 

Without the shipping case, it weighs 33kg, with the case it's 47kg. I just weighed my case at 25.4kg. The case is 13.7kg so that puts my current parts at 11.7kg. 

If I could transplant my parts to the new case (not possible with my comparatively short tubing runs and m-itx motherboard), it would weigh a minimum of 45kg. That's 59kg when inside the carry case. That's within healthy weight guidelines for a 5'6" person, and there's plenty more I could/would have to get in there. I have seen the primo, the radiator space is pretty good. The lack of support for a 360mm+ in the front is not the best, I couldn't keep my M-ITX system in there alongside an ATX one (admittedly not an insurmountable problem), and the looks in comparison to the elite aren't wowing me the same way.

Thank you very much for the offer, I'll throw you a pm. It's always good to be able to see hardware before making purchasing decisions, and maybe I'd change my mind about the primo if I saw it! It's Definitely a lot cheaper.


----------



## shilka

I am thinking about replace my old Luxe as its beat to hell and is making buzzing noise from pretty much everywhere and its driving me insane!
I am split between getting the TG version of the Luxe or if i should buy the new Phanteks Evolv X

Both cases have things i like and dislike so i really can't decide what i should go for?
I dont have much time to play games anymore so my PC is pretty much a server a media and a web browsing PC at this point

Bought my Luxe 4½ years ago and since i have gotten older since then my tastes have somewhat changed so one thing i wont do is re-use all my LED strips


----------



## Novak-Djokovic

How about the Phanteks Evolv X case? ( http://phanteks.com/Enthoo-Evolv-X.html )


----------



## doyll

shilka said:


> I am thinking about replace my old Luxe as its beat to hell and is making buzzing noise from pretty much everywhere and its driving me insane!
> I am split between getting the TG version of the Luxe or if i should buy the new Phanteks Evolv X
> 
> Both cases have things i like and dislike so i really can't decide what i should go for?
> I dont have much time to play games anymore so my PC is pretty much a server a media and a web browsing PC at this point
> 
> Bought my Luxe 4½ years ago and since i have gotten older since then my tastes have somewhat changed so one thing i wont do is re-use all my LED strips


I like the looks of Evolv X and think it will be a very nice case. I have original Evolv ATX and even with it's 1/3rd as much front and 1/5th as much top venting it flows enough for 2x fanned GPU and 140mm fanned CPU coolers, so Evolv X with so much more venting should be even better. 

Enthoo Luxe uses same base case as Enthoo Pro (not Pro M) with different front and top panels, have you looked at it?


----------



## shilka

doyll said:


> I like the looks of Evolv X and think it will be a very nice case. I have original Evolv ATX and even with it's 1/3rd as much front and 1/5th as much top venting it flows enough for 2x fanned GPU and 140mm fanned CPU coolers, so Evolv X with so much more venting should be even better.
> 
> Enthoo Luxe uses same base case as Enthoo Pro (not Pro M) with different front and top panels, have you looked at it?


 Yes i have looked at the both the Pro and the Luxe and i prefer the Luxe, i already have a Pro in my second PC so i know the Pro
I also built a PC for my nephew using the old Evolv ATX and i was not super impressed by the old Evolv ATX as air flow is not all that great

As said there are things i like and dislike with both the Luxe and the Evolv X so starting with the Luxe and what i like 

The Luxe is cheaper than the Evolv X and it has 5,25 bays which is still useful as i still use my Blu-Ray drive from time to time but i can live with it or just plug it in when needed
What i dislike about the Luxe is the fact that the HDD cages block almost all airflow into the case when the bays are full and the PSU cover is a major pain in the butt to deal with

What i like about the Evolv X is the fact its slightly smaller and it has a small LED strip on the inside built in and it has room for 4x HDD´s in the bottom of the case so a ton better air flow into the main chamber of the case with the Evolv X and there is no PSU cover you need to take on and off every time you need access to the PSU or the cables

My PSU might be too long to fit with both HDD cages mounted so i might be forced to buy a shorter one if i go with the Evolv X or i might be forced to mount the second HDD cage in the front of the case

What i dont like about the Evolv X is those plastic sliding cable cover things and i would prefer old school grommets instead and as i said no 5,25 bays in the front
Also dislike that i have to buy more HDD cages only two cages comes with the case and that adds even more costs to a case that is already quite expensive 

As i said i really would like a new case as the old one drives me nuts and its falling apart


----------



## doyll

shilka said:


> Yes i have looked at the both the Pro and the Luxe and i prefer the Luxe, i already have a Pro in my second PC so i know the Pro
> I also built a PC for my nephew using the old Evolv ATX and i was not super impressed by the old Evolv ATX as air flow is not all that great
> 
> As said there are things i like and dislike with both the Luxe and the Evolv X so starting with the Luxe and what i like
> 
> The Luxe is cheaper than the Evolv X and it has 5,25 bays which is still useful as i still use my Blu-Ray drive from time to time but i can live with it or just plug it in when needed
> What i dislike about the Luxe is the fact that the HDD cages block almost all airflow into the case when the bays are full and the PSU cover is a major pain in the butt to deal with
> 
> What i like about the Evolv X is the fact its slightly smaller and it has a small LED strip on the inside built in and it has room for 4x HDD´s in the bottom of the case so a ton better air flow into the main chamber of the case with the Evolv X and there is no PSU cover you need to take on and off every time you need access to the PSU or the cables
> 
> My PSU might be too long to fit with both HDD cages mounted so i might be forced to buy a shorter one if i go with the Evolv X or i might be forced to mount the second HDD cage in the front of the case
> 
> What i dont like about the Evolv X is those plastic sliding cable cover things and i would prefer old school grommets instead and as i said no 5,25 bays in the front
> Also dislike that i have to buy more HDD cages only two cages comes with the case and that adds even more costs to a case that is already quite expensive
> 
> As i said i really would like a new case as the old one drives me nuts and its falling apart


I agree, the Enthoo Luxe has slightly better airflow than Evolv ATX, but not as goo as Enthoo Pro. 

I too like having an optical drive. I also use 2x 5.25" bays for removable HDDs as storage drives. So I can understand wanting them. 

Another nice thing about Evolv X is the thick aluminum and tempered glass panels do not vibrate/resonate like thin panels often do.


----------



## shilka

doyll said:


> I agree, the Enthoo Luxe has slightly better airflow than Evolv ATX, but not as goo as Enthoo Pro.
> 
> I too like having an optical drive. I also use 2x 5.25" bays for removable HDDs as storage drives. So I can understand wanting them.
> 
> Another nice thing about Evolv X is the thick aluminum and tempered glass panels do not vibrate/resonate like thin panels often do.


 Looking at the Pro i do see your point about better air flow so thats a plus but the Pro only comes with two fans where you get four with the Luxe
Wonder what would be cheaper the Luxe with nothing else or the Pro with 2-3 more fans?

I know you have said good things about the Be Quiet Silent Wings 3 fans so would 4 of those be a good option for case fans?


----------



## MoDeNa

doyll said:


> ...
> 
> I have heard nothing about upgrading Primo. What would you want upgraded? I'm guessing the front I/O?
> 
> ....


Perhaps new front design more air flow friendly, tempered glass side panel,... If my memory works fine, I guess this case was released some years ago and consequently some updates could be in the kitchen... 

It is just I am planning to upgrade my rig (mini ITX in a Case Labs BH2 with an 8700k and 1080 Ti) looking for silence with good temperatures in a not very big case and I am doing some kind of research among all case manufacturers.


----------



## nyk20z3

Just picked up a sSatin Black Evolv X but Phanteks still hasn't posted the 300mm premium riser cable FS on there website but they sell the 600mm....


----------



## Boost240

I just got my Evolv X, upgraded from the regular one. I have a 360 rad up top and I'm looking to add a 280 or 420 to the front of the X once I transfer parts. I'm having a hard time gauging if the 420 would even fit with the 360. The 280 would work for sure. Does anybody have a dual rad setup in the X? Do you think it'd work? Thanks.


----------



## Boost240

I think I'll just get a 280 and save my self any potential headaches.


----------



## scracy

Boost240 said:


> I just got my Evolv X, upgraded from the regular one. I have a 360 rad up top and I'm looking to add a 280 or 420 to the front of the X once I transfer parts. I'm having a hard time gauging if the 420 would even fit with the 360. The 280 would work for sure. Does anybody have a dual rad setup in the X? Do you think it'd work? Thanks.


You can fit a dual 360mm radiator set up provided each radiator is no more than 40mm thick


----------



## ciarlatano

scracy said:


> You can fit a dual 360mm radiator set up provided each radiator is no more than 40mm thick


But.....why would you when a 280mm fits far more comfortably and doesn't cram the case?


----------



## scracy

ciarlatano said:


> But.....why would you when a 280mm fits far more comfortably and doesn't cram the case?


Just saying that you could if you chose to do so, ultimately its the end users choice.


----------



## DaveLT

My OG enthoo pro is looking very sad after 4 years especially the side panel :

I'm thinking of making a solid acrylic front panel for it (it looks bland) and a top fan mount that bolts to the mounts that was intended for the ODD bay because who uses that ****?

A left side panel, my acrylic is super scuffed and it looks even more bland after 4 years. Preferably custom made tempered glass but has anyone done the acrylic mod? I tried messaging phanteks but they didn't answer so whatever. I was VERY WILLING to pay for a TG kit.
And possibly a solid right side acrylic panel as well because I am thinking of adding 2 fan mounts for AIOs... something phanteks left out 
Also a black acrylic board for the giant black cover that has HDD and SSD mounts or perhaps a permanent mounting spot for the SSD that's on the psu cover










This case has seen so much over the years and I need to reterminate my custom cables...


----------



## lightsout

Anyone know if the Enthoo Pro M Special Edition has any sort of RGB controller for the colored fan rings? The P400 has a button you push to change the colors, the website says theres an rgb button but all I see is the reset button. Unless the SE loses the reset that the normal Enthoo Pro M has.


----------



## DaveLT

lightsout said:


> Anyone know if the Enthoo Pro M Special Edition has any sort of RGB controller for the colored fan rings? The P400 has a button you push to change the colors, the website says theres an rgb button but all I see is the reset button. Unless the SE loses the reset that the normal Enthoo Pro M has.


There's a controller, apparently.
https://linustechtips.com/main/topic/894607-enthoo-pro-m-sethe-one-with-halos-case-fans-not-working/

Just excuse that someone has not read the manual about what cable being what cable


----------



## bajer29

lightsout said:


> Anyone know if the Enthoo Pro M Special Edition has any sort of RGB controller for the colored fan rings? The P400 has a button you push to change the colors, the website says theres an rgb button but all I see is the reset button. Unless the SE loses the reset that the normal Enthoo Pro M has.


There is an RGB control button below the front two USB ports on the left side of the case (same side as the tempered glass). There is no reset button that I'm aware of. They basically just re-purposed the reset/ restart button with the RGB lighting control button. There is a power button on the top of the bezel up top.


----------



## lightsout

bajer29 said:


> There is an RGB control button below the front two USB ports on the left side of the case (same side as the tempered glass). There is no reset button that I'm aware of. They basically just re-purposed the reset/ restart button with the RGB lighting control button. There is a power button on the top of the bezel up top.


Thanks your right the reset button has been repurposed. I got the case setup today.

Anyone know if Phanteks sells splitters for their RGB strips? I know they have an adapter to go to the motherboard.

But I want to get two strips and tie them into the reset button. I'm not finding them currently.


----------



## doyll

lightsout said:


> Thanks your right the reset button has been repurposed. I got the case setup today.
> 
> Anyone know if Phanteks sells splitters for their RGB strips? I know they have an adapter to go to the motherboard.
> 
> But I want to get two strips and tie them into the reset button. I'm not finding them currently.


Something like in link below?
https://www.overclock.net/forum/23389821-post37.html


----------



## lightsout

doyll said:


> Something like in link below?
> https://www.overclock.net/forum/23389821-post37.html


?
I was unclear sorry I was talking about RGB lighting strips. They have a proprietary plug, was wanting a Y splitter for them.


----------



## doyll

lightsout said:


> ?
> I was unclear sorry I was talking about RGB lighting strips. They have a proprietary plug, was wanting a Y splitter for them.


Sorry, posted wrong link.
This link for 3-pin Digital RGB LED Extension Y-splitter Cable is what I meant to post:
http://phanteks.com/PH-CB_DRGB3P.html


----------



## ErrantPigeon

So, my machine is getting a bit long in the tooth and my Z77 motherboard is starting to act up a bit, so it's upgrade time.

While I really, really like the Evolv X (after having owned the original Evolv ATX for a few years)... it's just kind of not for me: it's a bit too hard to get and (more importantly) a bit too huge for me (even the Evolv ATX was pushing it), especially with an upcoming renovation of my living room.

Ultimately, I settled on the Evolv mATX TG, since the reduced depth (510mm down to 400mm) allows me to fit it almost perfectly under my new desk while keeping the aesthetic. Still, I quite like the Evolv X improvements, so I wonder:

Has anybody (esp. in the UK) looked into modifying the Evolv front panels in different ways than just cutting holes into the front? I'm mainly thinking of replicating some of the Evolv X changes: larger side holes in the top panel and wider side openings in the front panel.

It'd be quite a fun project to try and mod it into an "Evolv μX", so to speak, and I'm already looking into some other mods I can do myself (recessing the front fans for better intake, replicating the illumination strip using a new acrylic PSU shroud etc).


----------



## lightsout

doyll said:


> Sorry, posted wrong link.
> This link for 3-pin Digital RGB LED Extension Y-splitter Cable is what I meant to post:
> http://phanteks.com/PH-CB_DRGB3P.html


Yeah thanks thats the one, I should have went to Phanteks site to begin with. Grabbed a couple on newegg.


----------



## HeyThereGuy

Anyone know if a Hardwarelabs 360mm GTS X-Flow rad will fit in the front of the Evolv-X?


----------



## MoDeNa

HeyThereGuy said:


> Anyone know if a Hardwarelabs 360mm GTS X-Flow rad will fit in the front of the Evolv-X?


It fits perfectly. It is only 14 mm longer than the normal GTS 360.


----------



## ciarlatano

HeyThereGuy said:


> Anyone know if a Hardwarelabs 360mm GTS X-Flow rad will fit in the front of the Evolv-X?





MoDeNa said:


> It fits perfectly. It is only 14 mm longer than the normal GTS 360.


What about the width? Is the midplate cutout wide enough for a GTS? It wasn't in the Evolve ATX.


----------



## haszek

MoDeNa said:


> It fits perfectly. It is only 14 mm longer than the normal GTS 360.





> What about the width? Is the midplate cutout wide enough for a GTS? It wasn't in the Evolve ATX.


It fits easily, there are even gaps left on each of the side of the rad.


----------



## MoDeNa

ciarlatano said:


> What about the width? Is the midplate cutout wide enough for a GTS? It wasn't in the Evolve ATX.


The width is the same in both (source: http://www.hardwarelabs.com):

HWL GTS 360: 398mm x 133mm x 29.6mm (L x W x H)
HWL GTS 360 X-FLOW: 412mm x 133mm x 29.6mm (L x W x H)

I had an Evolv with the GTS 360 normal in front and fitted perfectly:


----------



## hurricane28

MoDeNa said:


> The width is the same in both (source: http://www.hardwarelabs.com):
> 
> HWL GTS 360: 398mm x 133mm x 29.6mm (L x W x H)
> HWL GTS 360 X-FLOW: 412mm x 133mm x 29.6mm (L x W x H)
> 
> I had an Evolv with the GTS 360 normal in front and fitted perfectly:


Nice build man! I really dig the color too, Blue is my favorite color


----------



## MoDeNa

hurricane28 said:


> Nice build man! I really dig the color too, Blue is my favorite color


Many thanks


----------



## ciarlatano

MoDeNa said:


> The width is the same in both (source: http://www.hardwarelabs.com):
> 
> HWL GTS 360: 398mm x 133mm x 29.6mm (L x W x H)
> HWL GTS 360 X-FLOW: 412mm x 133mm x 29.6mm (L x W x H)
> 
> I had an Evolv with the GTS 360 normal in front and fitted perfectly:


Thanks, my mistake....I was thinking of the HWL 280mm rads, not the 360mm.


----------



## wickedout

MoDeNa said:


> The width is the same in both (source: http://www.hardwarelabs.com):
> 
> 
> 
> HWL GTS 360: 398mm x 133mm x 29.6mm (L x W x H)
> 
> HWL GTS 360 X-FLOW: 412mm x 133mm x 29.6mm (L x W x H)
> 
> 
> 
> I had an Evolv with the GTS 360 normal in front and fitted perfectly:




What Phantek case is that? I like it.


----------



## MoDeNa

wickedout said:


> What Phantek case is that? I like it.


Hi wickedout! It is the Phanteks Evolv TG (silver):










Thanks!


----------



## lightsout

MoDeNa said:


> Hi wickedout! It is the Phanteks Evolv TG (silver):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks!


Thats really nice looking! Love the silver.


----------



## MoDeNa

lightsout said:


> Thats really nice looking! Love the silver.


Many thanks! In live gains a lot more than in pictures


----------



## Jounar

My Evolv X arrived after getting lost over the weekend


----------



## wickedout

When will the evolv x be in stock again? Anyone have ETA? 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## lightsout

Anyone with en Enthoo Pro M and Halo's on the front fans (probably SE owners) been able to swap the Halos to the rear of the fans? I want to be able to see them from inside. The way my case sits I can't even see the front so it seems like a waste to have them like that.

I figured it would be no big deal, tried to do it today and notice they are using radiator screws which only can screw in from the front of the case. So when putting the halo rings on the side of the fan which faces the rear of the case the screw is too short. I might be able to get some longer ones but it needs to be just barely longer so will probably have to stack washers.

Another thing that is annoying is there are no standard 140mm holes to mount the fan at the highest position. Only the radiator screw holes. You have to slide the fans down so that the bottom fan is sitting below the PSU shroud (to reach the holes which will take a typical fan screw)which IMO just looks dumb. 

Not a huge deal but I guess there were just intended to be front facing.


----------



## wickedout

Phanteks emailed me back this: 

Hi (my name)

The next shipment for Evolv X should available by end of October. 

PhanteksUSA Support

At least they replied back.


----------



## pony-tail

I have just ordered a Phanteks Eclipse P350X Tempered Glass D-RGB Black/White case to put an Asus Crosshair VI extreme in , as it was currently available , and priced low enough ( from PCCG - I am in Australia ) that I could buy one as a stop gap until I find something that I want . It is currently in a LianLi PC-06b , an older case with only 1 fan front and 1 fan rear and with the Aussie Summer coming I need something that will not overheat .
Has anybody on here got one of these , and if so is there anybody who has successfully fitted an E-ATX board to one ?


----------



## d0mmie

I'm hoping that someone might be able to help me out with a small problem regarding my Phanteks Enthoo Luxe TG case...

Those locking mechanisms that hold the top ventilation cover (black) in place seems to be busted, or at least one of them. This means only one will hold down the top cover, and sometimes it will pop off by itself. I guess the mechanism has been worn down and I need help tracking these parts down, perhaps ebay or something. If anyone maybe knows the part number, or what these things are even called, I'd much appreciate it.

See attached image.


----------



## Novak-Djokovic

Sheesh, it looks like the Evolv X...beautiful setup.


----------



## thekingbeyond

d0mmie said:


> I'm hoping that someone might be able to help me out with a small problem regarding my Phanteks Enthoo Luxe TG case...
> 
> Those locking mechanisms that hold the top ventilation cover (black) in place seems to be busted, or at least one of them. This means only one will hold down the top cover, and sometimes it will pop off by itself. I guess the mechanism has been worn down and I need help tracking these parts down, perhaps ebay or something. If anyone maybe knows the part number, or what these things are even called, I'd much appreciate it.


What about these?

https://www.ebay.com/itm/2x-Push-Op...h=item2ef5cf0063:g:R5wAAOSwECZUq92l:rk:1:pf:0


----------



## d0mmie

thekingbeyond said:


> What about these?
> 
> https://www.ebay.com/itm/2x-Push-Op...h=item2ef5cf0063:g:R5wAAOSwECZUq92l:rk:1:pf:0


Well now that was quick. Thanks a bunch!


----------



## bajer29

d0mmie said:


> Well now that was quick. Thanks a bunch!


I was also going to mention contacting Phanteks directly about those clips. Ebay's probably cheaper tbh, though.

I would just verify dimensions to be safe as it seems the seller is advertising these clips for more than one type of item from trash cans to outlet boxes.


----------



## ciarlatano

d0mmie said:


> Well now that was quick. Thanks a bunch!





bajer29 said:


> I was also going to mention contacting Phanteks directly about those clips. Ebay's probably cheaper tbh, though.
> 
> I would just verify dimensions to be safe as it seems the seller is advertising these clips for more than one type of item from trash cans to outlet boxes.


Agree with contacting Phanteks. The clips were a known issue with the Primo and they were very good about replacing them for customers. I would imagine that they would be for any of their cases.


----------



## doyll

ciarlatano said:


> Agree with contacting Phanteks. The clips were a known issue with the Primo and they were very good about replacing them for customers. I would imagine that they would be for any of their cases.


Pretty sure you know this, but for others who do not, the problem with them in Primo was the ones on front cover, not top cover. The problem is the latches are in middle area of front crossbar and pushing on front cover to get clip to release flexes the crossbar the clip is in. Solution is to remove lowest 5.25" bay cover and grip inside with fingers and push on cover with thumb and presto! Latch releases! Or if using optical bays, remove side cover and push from inside and on front at same time.

Another problem peeps have with these latches is latch being in closed position when trying to put cover back on. 

Below image shows how they work. Latch in image is surface mount latch, not the clip in ones in our cases. But both work the same way.


----------



## d0mmie

ciarlatano said:


> Agree with contacting Phanteks. The clips were a known issue with the Primo and they were very good about replacing them for customers. I would imagine that they would be for any of their cases.


Yeah well... I didn't really care to bother with them, as I did contact Phanteks Europe support a few months back (different issue), and they just never answered. So if you want things done proper, do it yourself as they say


----------



## thedosbox

Two questions about an Enthoo Evolv MicroATX (the old non-TG one):

How do you fasten 140mm fans in the front? Phanteks support say that 6-32x31mm screws should be used, but none are in the accessory box. The mounting holes are also much smaller than the holes on the fans I have - both the stock PH-F 140SP, and a pair of Corsair ML-140's.

Has anyone tried the spacer mod for the front panel? If so, what length spacers and what screws did you use? I assume the existing ones will need to be replaced with longer ones.


----------



## leops1984

Gamers Nexus did their review of the Evolv X:

https://www.gamersnexus.net/hwreviews/3379-phanteks-evolv-x-case-review-dual-system-thermals

Overall they said it's fine. Thermally they found that the major choke point isn't the front panel per se, but the front air filter: either it's too restrictive or the fans don't have enough static pressure to pull air through.

They did praise the vertical GPU mount for being thermally equivalent to a standard motherboard mount... so long as you only have a two-slot GPU and not anything fatter.


----------



## Xeby

I got my Evolv X recently and am just trying to finish the build. I just need to figure out the fan configuration and which rgb fans I want to buy to supplement the build. Does anyone know the best configuration for this case? I have an H150i Pro on the top covering all 360mm but I don't know if I should set them to intake or outtake. Stock fans right now for the rest, but I am considering replacing them with something like the Corsair LL120 and LL 140s. Any advice on fan choice and configuration?


----------



## petmic10

Set the fans on the H150i to exhaust out. And don't replace the stock Phanteks fans that come with the case. You will have a very hard time finding something better.


----------



## Xeby

petmic10 said:


> Set the fans on the H150i to exhaust out. And don't replace the stock Phanteks fans that come with the case. You will have a very hard time finding something better.


I wasn't aware the Evolv X stock fans were that good. I can hold off on replacing them for now at least, but I may still in the future want to get some RGB fans later. I'll set the H150 fans to exhaust at the top though, and I assume I should leave the front as intake and back as exhaust.


----------



## petmic10

Xeby said:


> I wasn't aware the Evolv X stock fans were that good. I can hold off on replacing them for now at least, but I may still in the future want to get some RGB fans later. I'll set the H150 fans to exhaust at the top though, and I assume I should leave the front as intake and back as exhaust.


Phanteks makes what they call Halos RGB fan frames for their fans. Pretty cool.

http://www.phanteks.com/Halos.html


----------



## lightsout

Any thoughts on the Evolv ITX? Considering grabbing one for an i5 or ryzen 2600 build. Probably with a GTX 1060 in there.


----------



## thedosbox

thedosbox said:


> Two questions about an Enthoo Evolv MicroATX (the old non-TG one):
> 
> How do you fasten 140mm fans in the front? Phanteks support say that 6-32x31mm screws should be used, but none are in the accessory box. The mounting holes are also much smaller than the holes on the fans I have - both the stock PH-F 140SP, and a pair of Corsair ML-140's.


To answer my own question, and as a PSA for anyone else considering this case, Phanteks support confirmed the case doesn't ship with the necessary screws to mount 140mm fans in the front.


----------



## guzzoline

Quick question for P350x owners! 

Would I be able to attach two round 140mm fans (with 120mm fan mounts) to the front of the case? I've got some PH-F140HP_II and TY-147A fans I could use as intakes, but they're as big as 140mm fans but will attach onto the case on the 120mm attachment points. Trying to keep costs down, so not having to buy new fans would be great!


----------



## smithydan

guzzoline said:


> Quick question for P350x owners!
> 
> Would I be able to attach two round 140mm fans (with 120mm fan mounts) to the front of the case? I've got some PH-F140HP_II and TY-147A fans I could use as intakes, but they're as big as 140mm fans but will attach onto the case on the 120mm attachment points. Trying to keep costs down, so not having to buy new fans would be great!


Because the 120mm fans are not centered to the 140mm fans and the holes are not elongated to the length of the 140mm fan, I don't think so. They are centered from the meeting point.

See below to understand
http://phanteks.com/images/product/Eclipse-P350X/Black/P350X-13.jpg


----------



## doyll

guzzoline said:


> Quick question for P350x owners!
> 
> Would I be able to attach two round 140mm fans (with 120mm fan mounts) to the front of the case? I've got some PH-F140HP_II and TY-147A fans I could use as intakes, but they're as big as 140mm fans but will attach onto the case on the 120mm attachment points. Trying to keep costs down, so not having to buy new fans would be great!


What smithydan said. :thumb:

I think below pic shows the problem better. right side 1 row of slots are for both 120mm and 140mm fans while left side has 1 row of slots for 120mm and 1 row for 140mm fans.

The front mounting panel is really made for 120mm fans so when using 140mm there is quite a bit of the front mounting panel blocking airflow which not only lowers airflow but makes for more noise. If I was building P350X with 140mm fans (assuming components need more airflow than 120mm fans will supply) I would cut out as much of the metal in the 140mm fans' impeller area as possible.


----------



## asdkj1740

doyll said:


> What smithydan said. :thumb:
> 
> I think below pic shows the problem better. right side 1 row of slots are for both 120mm and 140mm fans while left side has 1 row of slots for 120mm and 1 row for 140mm fans.
> 
> The front mounting panel is really made for 120mm fans so when using 140mm there is quite a bit of the front mounting panel blocking airflow which not only lowers airflow but makes for more noise. If I was building P350X with 140mm fans (assuming components need more airflow than 120mm fans will supply) I would cut out as much of the metal in the 140mm fans' impeller area as possible.


i cant believe what you said, lol.


----------



## DaveLT

Xeby said:


> I wasn't aware the Evolv X stock fans were that good. I can hold off on replacing them for now at least, but I may still in the future want to get some RGB fans later. I'll set the H150 fans to exhaust at the top though, and I assume I should leave the front as intake and back as exhaust.


Evolv fans are really good, Eclipse series... not so much.
there's also the HALOS DIGITAL RGB frame

http://www.phanteks.com/HalosDigital.html


----------



## guzzoline

smithydan said:


> Because the 120mm fans are not centered to the 140mm fans and the holes are not elongated to the length of the 140mm fan, I don't think so. They are centered from the meeting point.
> 
> See below to understand
> http://phanteks.com/images/product/Eclipse-P350X/Black/P350X-13.jpg





doyll said:


> What smithydan said. :thumb:
> 
> I think below pic shows the problem better. right side 1 row of slots are for both 120mm and 140mm fans while left side has 1 row of slots for 120mm and 1 row for 140mm fans.
> 
> The front mounting panel is really made for 120mm fans so when using 140mm there is quite a bit of the front mounting panel blocking airflow which not only lowers airflow but makes for more noise. If I was building P350X with 140mm fans (assuming components need more airflow than 120mm fans will supply) I would cut out as much of the metal in the 140mm fans' impeller area as possible.


Thanks for the info / pictures, very helpful! Looked up some more pictures and noticed the recessed wall (cable mgmt area) pretty much leave no space between itself and standard 120mm/140mm fans. I don't think a 140mm cooler fan would even fit in there (since some of the 140mm fan extends out beyond the 120mm mounting hole, the wall would be in the way!).

Thanks again!


----------



## asdkj1740

guzzoline said:


> Thanks for the info / pictures, very helpful! Looked up some more pictures and noticed the recessed wall (cable mgmt area) pretty much leave no space between itself and standard 120mm/140mm fans. I don't think a 140mm cooler fan would even fit in there (since some of the 140mm fan extends out beyond the 120mm mounting hole, the wall would be in the way!).
> 
> Thanks again!


2*a12x25 solve the problem


----------



## doyll

*I just got new Evolv X out of it's box. *

It's quite heavy and very well packed in it's own cloth bag instead of usual plastic. Just started looking it over and have to say I'm extremely impressed with it. Lots of nice improvements from Evolv ATX I've been using. Even side by side the Evolv X front looks almost the same as Evolv ATX. Even with 3 times as much front vent area it is hard to see the difference without getting out the measuring stick.

Every place I look I see new features and improvements. Have to say, so far I'm really impressed with Evolv X.


----------



## lightsout

doyll said:


> *I just got new Evolv X out of it's box. *
> 
> It's quite heavy and very well packed in it's own cloth bag instead of usual plastic. Just started looking it over and have to say I'm extremely impressed with it. Lots of nice improvements from Evolv ATX I've been using. Even side by side the Evolv X front looks almost the same as Evolv ATX. Even with 3 times as much front vent area it is hard to see the difference without getting out the measuring stick.
> 
> Every place I look I see new features and improvements. Have to say, so far I'm really impressed with Evolv X.


Sweet, you planning on running dual systems?


----------



## noobee

Is there a smaller ATX case than the phanteks p300? I like this case and it would house my X470 mobo and R7 2700. As for mobos, I am looking at the Gigabyte X470 Gaming 7 and Asrock Taichi.


----------



## doyll

lightsout said:


> Sweet, you planning on running dual systems?


Definitely thinking about it. Problem is when I'm working at my desk I need more power. If it was a combo HTPC/work system it would definitely be a dual system, but I don't do both in even in same room. 

It's all the user friendly things I'm noticing:

:ike how the front panel clips at top and slides out at bottom, and how the wiring for lighting on front panel disconnects when cover is removed. 
And how removing 2 captured thumb screws from back at top and slipping top back 1/4" to remove top.
How the clip latches release to open the cable management covers on right side. 
Capture screws on PSu back mount panel.


----------



## DaveLT

noobee said:


> Is there a smaller ATX case than the phanteks p300? I like this case and it would house my X470 mobo and R7 2700. As for mobos, I am looking at the Gigabyte X470 Gaming 7 and Asrock Taichi.


The P300's pretty cramped already. Any smaller you would have to give up a lot of features or even motherboard form factor.


----------



## thekingbeyond

noobee said:


> Is there a smaller ATX case than the phanteks p300? I like this case and it would house my X470 mobo and R7 2700. As for mobos, I am looking at the Gigabyte X470 Gaming 7 and Asrock Taichi.


Raijintek Thetis is smaller than the p300


----------



## doyll

noobee said:


> Is there a smaller ATX case than the phanteks p300? I like this case and it would house my X470 mobo and R7 2700. As for mobos, I am looking at the Gigabyte X470 Gaming 7 and Asrock Taichi.


As already said, P300 is quite small (	200x450x400mm). 

MetallicGear NEO is 215x450x400mm and supports 2x 140mm front intakes (also top and rear).

Fractal Design Arc Midi is 230 x 460 x 515mmn and supports 2x front and 1x bottom 140mm fans (also top and rear).

Fractal Design Meshify C is 212 x 395 x 440mm and supports 2x 140mm front and 1x 120mm bottom, but PSU shroud blocks much of airflow from bottom up to GPU.


----------



## Novak-Djokovic

Here's another review by Dmitry at Hardware Canucks of the Evolv X...




I just got mine two days ago. I will start the build within a few weeks... quite busy right now, AND I still do not have the 9900K from B&H Photo.


----------



## Novak-Djokovic

I just got in 6 Noctua Chromax case fans (black with red trim) for the Evolv X. Should look good with the red Corsair Vengeance LPX (2x8GB) 3200 memory. Excited, but still no 9900K from B&H Photo. The 2080ti Asus Strix due to arrive Wed. the 7th. Hope my wife doesn't see the invoice.


----------



## chakku

Love the SSD doors in the rear, by far the easiest case I've had the pleasure of building in. The only visible cable in the rear now is the CPU 8-pin.

I have a full set of white Cablemod cables from my PSU, not just extensions though, and the cutout in the PSU shroud reveals the ones hidden behind the doors when the PSU shroud illumination is enabled. Anyone got any ideas for hiding this? I have an HDD installed there prohibiting simply moving the cables out of sight.

Also Phanteks Australia advised me I'd have to contact Phanteks USA to purchase more of the airflow covers since the case only came with one and since I have no radiators or fans at the top I'd like to block it all off to better direct airflow through the case (used tape mod in my previous Evolv TG). Anyone had any luck ordering these direct?


----------



## wickedout

*[Official] Case PHANTEKS Case Club for lovers &amp; owners*

Ordered my phanteks evolv x earlier this morning. Should be here in a few days. Went all black.


----------



## HeyThereGuy

Has anyone put a HWL 420GTS in the Evolv X? Any fitment issues with the width?


----------



## Gilles3000

noobee said:


> Is there a smaller ATX case than the phanteks p300? I like this case and it would house my X470 mobo and R7 2700. As for mobos, I am looking at the Gigabyte X470 Gaming 7 and Asrock Taichi.


Sure are, as mentioned, the Raijintek Thetis is one of the smaller ATX cases.

But there are also:
Jonsbo U4
Streacom F12C
Xigmatek Prospect(not nearly as nice as the others but for less than €50, you can't complain.)


----------



## bites

the HWL 420 GTS will not fit, it is too wide. Thinner 420 would fit, I believe some EK ones are thin


----------



## ciarlatano

HeyThereGuy said:


> Has anyone put a HWL 420GTS in the Evolv X? Any fitment issues with the width?


The opening in the PSU shroud would have to be notched to accommodate the width. If you wanted to stay with HWL you would have to go to an L-Series or notch the shroud. Given the choice, I would notch the shroud. It isn't hard to do, and using rubber channel trim makes it look like it came out of the factory that way. It's a tough spot since the GTS performs so well for a slim rad, and a substitution is a good sized step down in performance.


----------



## mAs81

Hey guys 



since I got me a new gpu , I changed some stuff in my Evolv build..


Sorry for the bad pics..


----------



## doyll

bites said:


> the HWL 420 GTS will not fit, it is too wide. Thinner 420 would fit, I believe some EK ones are thin


What ciarlatano said. I'm not up to date on radiators, but 153mm seems kinda wide for 140mm fanned radiator.

I just measured teh opening in PSU shroud at 150mm wide and 86mm deep from fan/radiator mounting panel.


----------



## ciarlatano

doyll said:


> What ciarlatano said. I'm not up to date on radiators, but 153mm seems kinda wide for 140mm fanned radiator.
> 
> I just measured teh opening in PSU shroud at 150mm wide and 86mm deep from fan/radiator mounting panel.


HWL oversizes the chassis on all of their rads. No clue as to why. I can't see any obvious gain, they never mention one, and they completely avoided the question (which was odd because they answered every other question) when I asked when I was reviewing some of their rads.


----------



## HeyThereGuy

ciarlatano said:


> The opening in the PSU shroud would have to be notched to accommodate the width. If you wanted to stay with HWL you would have to go to an L-Series or notch the shroud. Given the choice, I would notch the shroud. It isn't hard to do, and using rubber channel trim makes it look like it came out of the factory that way. It's a tough spot since the GTS performs so well for a slim rad, and a substitution is a good sized step down in performance.


Damn. I was just hoping for an easy fix.. I have been waiting for the 360 GTS' to be back in stock for a few weeks already.. Haven't really been able to come up with other rad options which would be a lateral move from the GTS for a low noise build..


----------



## haszek

HeyThereGuy said:


> Damn. I was just hoping for an easy fix.. I have been waiting for the 360 GTS' to be back in stock for a few weeks already.. Haven't really been able to come up with other rad options which would be a lateral move from the GTS for a low noise build..


360 fits fine, no problems. It's the 140 sizes that are wider.


----------



## HeyThereGuy

haszek said:


> 360 fits fine, no problems. It's the 140 sizes that are wider.


Yeah for sure. I just saw that the 420&280 GTS' are in stock so I could have gotten them instead of waiting for the 360 to become available..


----------



## wickedout

My case will be here later today! Along with other parts. Amazon keeps giving many of us the run around with our i9 9900K orders. I’m about to cancel that order. Amazon makes me sick.


----------



## Novak-Djokovic

Received my Evolv X 5 days ago. It is HEAVY, and when I put the Seasonic Prime Titanium 850 Ultra PSU in it... Yikes. 

An amazing case.


----------



## bajer29

Novak-Djokovic said:


> Received my Evolv X 5 days ago. It is HEAVY, and when I put the Seasonic Prime Titanium 850 Ultra PSU in it... Yikes.
> 
> An amazing case.


Yeah, that tempered glass adds a lot of weight.


----------



## ejb222

Just got my Silver Aluminum Evolv X yesterday. Can't wait to dig in. I'm waiting on Ryzen 3 and comparing their offering to Intel's before I build. This will be my first dive into water cooling as well. Think I'll start with just CPU. Thumbs up or down on XSPC blocks and rads?


----------



## wickedout

ejb222 said:


> Just got my Silver Aluminum Evolv X yesterday. Can't wait to dig in. I'm waiting on Ryzen 3 and comparing their offering to Intel's before I build. This will be my first dive into water cooling as well. Think I'll start with just CPU. Thumbs up or down on XSPC blocks and rads?




My all black Evolv X will be delivered tomorrow along with other parts. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Luck100

Anybody know which specific fan models come installed in the Enthoo Pro M Special Edition? I know they're 140mm, but which ones? PWM or 3-pin?


----------



## doyll

Luck100 said:


> Anybody know which specific fan models come installed in the Enthoo Pro M Special Edition? I know they're 140mm, but which ones? PWM or 3-pin?


Unless Phanteks has again changed them without letting us know they are Ph-F140SP housing and motor (3-pin variable voltage) with PH-F140MP impeller .. these case fans have no model number.


----------



## Luck100

doyll said:


> Unless Phanteks has again changed them without letting us know they are Ph-F140SP housing and motor (3-pin variable voltage) with PH-F140MP impeller .. these case fans have no model number.


Okay, thanks for that. Guess that means I'll need to get the Phanteks fan hub as well if I want to dial down the case fans.


----------



## odnilB

Does someone know how tall the internal area is of the Evolv Shift?


----------



## doyll

Luck100 said:


> Okay, thanks for that. Guess that means I'll need to get the Phanteks fan hub as well if I want to dial down the case fans.


These case fans are low wattage so you can run 3x of these on a single variable voltage fan header with no problems.


----------



## Luck100

doyll said:


> These case fans are low wattage so you can run 3x of these on a single variable voltage fan header with no problems.


I'm leaning toward a Gigabyte motherboard for this build, and my last one only did PWM fan control from the headers. No voltage control. Had to get a separate fan control device and stick it in the optical drive bay. Would prefer not to do that this time since Pro M only has one 5.25 external bay and I want to use it for an actual optical drive.


----------



## doyll

Luck100 said:


> I'm leaning toward a Gigabyte motherboard for this build, and my last one only did PWM fan control from the headers. No voltage control. Had to get a separate fan control device and stick it in the optical drive bay. Would prefer not to do that this time since Pro M only has one 5.25 external bay and I want to use it for an actual optical drive.


The Phanteks PWM controlled variable voltage fan hub is okay. Problem is it's variable voltage range is not just dependent on PWM% but also fan load, meaning it needs about 1 amp of fan load to have a voltage range of 4.6v @ 20% PWM and 11.7v @ 100%. So if you were to only run 3 fans using 0.14A each you will have only a 0.42amp load and voltage range will be 6v @ 20% and 12.2v @ 100%. Below is link to review of hub
https://www.overclock.net/forum/25660095-post15845.html


----------



## Luck100

doyll said:


> The Phanteks PWM controlled variable voltage fan hub is okay. Problem is it's variable voltage range is not just dependent on PWM% but also fan load, meaning it needs about 1 amp of fan load to have a voltage range of 4.6v @ 20% PWM and 11.7v @ 100%. So if you were to only run 3 fans using 0.14A each you will have only a 0.42amp load and voltage range will be 6v @ 20% and 12.2v @ 100%. Below is link to review of hub
> https://www.overclock.net/forum/25660095-post15845.html


Hmm, that's a bit disappointing as I'll only be using 3 fans (2 intake + 1 exhaust). I guess it will still do the job. Is there any better choice for a fan hub besides Phanteks? I see Deepcool and Thermaltake have similar offerings on Amazon UK.


----------



## doyll

Luck100 said:


> Hmm, that's a bit disappointing as I'll only be using 3 fans (2 intake + 1 exhaust). I guess it will still do the job. Is there any better choice for a fan hub besides Phanteks? I see Deepcool and Thermaltake have similar offerings on Amazon UK.


I haven't used any others. Best solution would be a motherboard that has variable voltage control on at least 1 fan header.


----------



## ciarlatano

Luck100 said:


> Hmm, that's a bit disappointing as I'll only be using 3 fans (2 intake + 1 exhaust). I guess it will still do the job. Is there any better choice for a fan hub besides Phanteks? I see Deepcool and Thermaltake have similar offerings on Amazon UK.


While what @doyll states is correct, it is not as drastic as you may think. For example, I had no issue running my Phanteks F140SP at 650 rpm with only those three connected to the hub. With three additional F120MP, I can get them down to ~500 rpm. But....there is no audible difference between 500 and 650 rpm.

The Phanteks hub works well. Tt and DeepCool....well....it's Tt and DeepCool, I wouldn't touch either.


----------



## Luck100

ciarlatano said:


> While what @doyll states is correct, it is not as drastic as you may think. For example, I had no issue running my Phanteks F140SP at 650 rpm with only those three connected to the hub. With three additional F120MP, I can get them down to ~500 rpm. But....there is no audible difference between 500 and 650 rpm.
> 
> The Phanteks hub works well. Tt and DeepCool....well....it's Tt and DeepCool, I wouldn't touch either.


Yep, sound like the Phankteks hub will do the job then.


----------



## doyll

As ciarlatano said, they will idle down to about 650rpm which is low enough to be silent yet fast enough to be moving an good amount of air through case. At low load case still needs a decent amount of airflow to keep things cool. All of my system fans have idle speeds of 550-700rpm. On older x58 systems motherboard component temps at idle were often higher than at full load because of much lower airflow over motherboard.


----------



## asdkj1740

have any enthoo pro m users tried to put 25mm thick fans on between the top panel and the top removable fan bracket?
i tried few times and all got failed...i dont really want to spend money on buying thinner fans like a12x15..


----------



## doyll

asdkj1740 said:


> have any enthoo pro m users tried to put 25mm thick fans on between the top panel and the top removable fan bracket?
> i tried few times and all got failed...i dont really want to spend money on buying thinner fans like a12x15..


Why are you trying to fit fans on top of the radiator/fan bracket?


----------



## asdkj1740

doyll said:


> Why are you trying to fit fans on top of the radiator/fan bracket?


planning to buy a 280mm aio
that area is totally wasted...~20mm stupidity....


----------



## doyll

asdkj1740 said:


> planning to buy a 280mm aio
> that area is totally wasted...~20mm stupidity....


I guess it depends on who it is. To me using a CLC (most AIOs are CLC .. a sub-group of AIO) is a total waste because the cost more, make more noise at same cooling level, don't last as long, always make more noise at idle, has no way to do maintanance/repairs, etc .. all things that are not a problem with a good air cooler. 

The reason cases are designed with space between mounting plate and grill is because that space generally means system makes less noise. 

Don't you have enough room for radiator and it's fans to fit on bottom of mounting tray?


----------



## asdkj1740

doyll said:


> I guess it depends on who it is. To me using a CLC (most AIOs are CLC .. a sub-group of AIO) is a total waste because the cost more, make more noise at same cooling level, don't last as long, always make more noise at idle, has no way to do maintanance/repairs, etc .. all things that are not a problem with a good air cooler.
> 
> The reason cases are designed with space between mounting plate and grill is because that space generally means system makes less noise.
> 
> Don't you have enough room for radiator and it's fans to fit on bottom of mounting tray?


i doubt this designed is meant to be reducing noise on enthoo pro m, phanteks engnieer simply too lazy to modify it so they copy it from evolv atx.
with soldered cpu or delidded cpu, 240/280/360mm are strong enough to beat d15.

i am worried that space will somehow make the hot air circling back to the case. and my hof ram is quiet tall.
i was mounting 140mm & 120mm aio on the top panel directly without the removable mounting tray, but for 280mm aio the ventilation on the top panel has not enough offest unlike the removable mounting tray...

enthoo pro m has so many potential...it is really shame to see it in current form...


----------



## doyll

asdkj1740 said:


> i doubt this designed is meant to be reducing noise on enthoo pro m, phanteks engnieer simply too lazy to modify it so they copy it from evolv atx.
> with soldered cpu or delidded cpu, 240/280/360mm are strong enough to beat d15.
> 
> i am worried that space will somehow make the hot air circling back to the case. and my hof ram is quiet tall.
> i was mounting 140mm & 120mm aio on the top panel directly without the removable mounting tray, but for 280mm aio the ventilation on the top panel has not enough offest unlike the removable mounting tray...
> 
> enthoo pro m has so many potential...it is really shame to see it in current form...


You are making a lot of claims as if they are fact that are not. 
It's a fact proven many times that 15-20mm between grill and fan lowers noise levels.

It's a fact that using CLCs greatly reduces airflow over motherboard and RAM and results in increased temps .. especially if user has CLC as intake, but having fan/s 25-26mm lower in Pro M case does not dramatically change airflow or created coolng issues. As long as you have good case airflow everything will cool with no issues. 

Enthoo Pro M and Evolv ATX use same inner-case design. They are good cases but as with most things the designers/engineers can't make a case that fills everyone's needs. If you need more room maybe it's time to look at a taller case that has more room at top of motherboard.


----------



## ciarlatano

asdkj1740 said:


> i doubt this designed is meant to be reducing noise on enthoo pro m, phanteks engnieer simply too lazy to modify it so they copy it from evolv atx.
> with soldered cpu or delidded cpu, 240/280/360mm are strong enough to beat d15.
> 
> i am worried that space will somehow make the hot air circling back to the case. and my hof ram is quiet tall.
> i was mounting 140mm & 120mm aio on the top panel directly without the removable mounting tray, but for 280mm aio the ventilation on the top panel has not enough offest unlike the removable mounting tray...
> 
> enthoo pro m has so many potential...it is really shame to see it in current form...


----------



## areksoo

I'm a long time Phanteks fanboy, but they have some serious privacy concerns with them that I'm never buying from Phanteks USA ever again. I received an email yesterday from Phanteks. Since I bought both the Evolv X and Revolt X from them, they wanted me to take some pics and was willing to give me $50 store credit for my troubles. I would have jumped on this in a heartbeat.... except they sent that email to everyone who bought the Evolv X and Revolt X and made the email recipients visible. 



















This is a serious breach of consumer privacy! Not only was my email exposed (which has my first and last name), but what I bought to others. If they freely play around with client data like this, how safe is the rest of my data like my address and credit card info? I tried reaching out to them replying to that email and also via Twitter and no response.


----------



## brian-phanteks

Hello Phanteks Family,

In regards to the above post, PhanteksUSA did send an email to a group of buyers who purchased dual system bundles. It looks like we have made a mistake and did not BCC those recipients. We apologize for this inconvenience. NO Names, Address, Phone Numbers, or any other identifying information was included in the email, strictly a list of about 40 emails were included in the message.
With that being said, we have already received a few customers replies with photos and specs, that we will be sharing to the community. Hopefully these builds can inspire others to create dual systems in their Evolv X, Enthoo Elite, and Enthoo Mini XL using the Revolt X.

On a side note, how many of us are waiting for the P600s to be released already? I know I am. All I can say about that is, the wait is coming to an end and everything is being finalized as we speak. 

Brian-Phanteks


----------



## areksoo

brian-phanteks said:


> Hello Phanteks Family,
> 
> In regards to the above post, PhanteksUSA did send an email to a group of buyers who purchased dual system bundles. It looks like we have made a mistake and did not BCC those recipients. We apologize for this inconvenience. NO Names, Address, Phone Numbers, or any other identifying information was included in the email, strictly a list of about 40 emails were included in the message.
> With that being said, we have already received a few customers replies with photos and specs, that we will be sharing to the community. Hopefully these builds can inspire others to create dual systems in their Evolv X, Enthoo Elite, and Enthoo Mini XL using the Revolt X.
> 
> On a side note, how many of us are waiting for the P600s to be released already? I know I am. All I can say about that is, the wait is coming to an end and everything is being finalized as we speak.
> 
> Brian-Phanteks


Really? My full name is in my email and email is personal information. You exposed my email and what I bought from you to multiple 3rd parties. That should NEVER happen. You haven't even disclosed this breach to the people affected, but I guess getting those pictures is more important.


----------



## lightsout

areksoo said:


> Really? My full name is in my email and email is personal information. You exposed my email and what I bought from you to multiple 3rd parties. That should NEVER happen. You haven't even disclosed this breach to the people affected, but I guess getting those pictures is more important.


Seems a little overreacted to me. Not cool but its an email, not like it was your social or something.


----------



## DarthBaggins

It's not that serious in all reality, not everyone uses their name as their email either. Personally you're over-reacting, yes I'd be irritated but not to the point that you're displaying.


----------



## doyll

areksoo said:


> Really? My full name is in my email and email is personal information. You exposed my email and what I bought from you to multiple 3rd parties. That should NEVER happen. You haven't even disclosed this breach to the people affected, but I guess getting those pictures is more important.


While I agree it is a serious breach of customer confidentiality and should never have happened, did't everyone who received the email you did has the same list of email addresses? 

By my way of thinking you make a big mistake by using an email address with our real name in it. I too have an email address that has my name in it, but that email address is only for close friends, and it is never used for anything like this. Giving a retailer, product manufacturer, etc. a private email address or any other information is a well known way of loosing one's privacy. These sorts of companies routinely sell these lists t other companies. Like I said, I totally understand why you are upset, but you made the first mistake. Phanteks just compounded it. You should be thankful it only went out to 40ish other individuals instead of being sold to other companies. 



lightsout said:


> Seems a little overreacted to me. Not cool but its an email, not like it was your social or something.


You thinking it's overreacting only shows how little your knowledge of how identity theft is done. It only takes a few mistakes like this for identity miners to find enough info to put someone at risk. Reality is even posting up about happening has greatly increased the chances of some identity miner finding more info about person involved.



DarthBaggins said:


> It's not that serious in all reality, not everyone uses their name as their email either. Personally you're over-reacting, yes I'd be irritated but not to the point that you're displaying.


Same answer as above. 

The less said on internet about this the less the chances of it getting out of hand.


----------



## lightsout

doyll said:


> While I agree it is a serious breach of customer confidentiality and should never have happened, did't everyone who received the email you did has the same list of email addresses?
> 
> By my way of thinking you make a big mistake by using an email address with our real name in it. I too have an email address that has my name in it, but that email address is only for close friends, and it is never used for anything like this. Giving a retailer, product manufacturer, etc. a private email address or any other information is a well known way of loosing one's privacy. These sorts of companies routinely sell these lists t other companies. Like I said, I totally understand why you are upset, but you made the first mistake. Phanteks just compounded it. You should be thankful it only went out to 40ish other individuals instead of being sold to other companies.
> 
> 
> You thinking it's overreacting only shows how little your knowledge of how identity theft is done. It only takes a few mistakes like this for identity miners to find enough info to put someone at risk. Reality is even posting up about happening has greatly increased the chances of some identity miner finding more info about person involved.
> 
> 
> Same answer as above.
> 
> The less said on internet about this the less the chances of it getting out of hand.


I am plenty aware. Emails are tossed around all day. They are shared much more than we like to believe.


----------



## Destructodave

Ok this is gonna be the stupidest question ever guys.

I got a Enthoo pro M. I have 2 140mm fans in front, 1 in rear. At first, I just installed an extra fan I bought below the factory installed one. But it seemed basically useless down there with a HDD tray in, and the PSU shroud/wires/etc.

So I moved both up above the shroud. Question is, should I put it back down there, take the HDD tray out, and try and fix some of the PSU wires? Is that a better place for it? I know it looks better down there from the front, but I really don't care much about looks. Is it even worth messing with again for a few degrees? I know moving it up cut about 2-3 degrees C during a benchmark, everything remaining the same. I only wondered cause my GPU runs hotter in this new case than my old Storm Scout. Probably because the old Scout had those cheesy slits on the side of the panel for side fans, but I had got to looking and realized the bottom fan was nearly completely blocked off anyways. Is it optimal for it to be down there or nah? I'm not using the HDD tray atm, so I could, or should, have just took that out when I put it together but I didn't.


----------



## lightsout

Destructodave said:


> Ok this is gonna be the stupidest question ever guys.
> 
> I got a Enthoo pro M. I have 2 140mm fans in front, 1 in rear. At first, I just installed an extra fan I bought below the factory installed one. But it seemed basically useless down there with a HDD tray in, and the PSU shroud/wires/etc.
> 
> So I moved both up above the shroud. Question is, should I put it back down there, take the HDD tray out, and try and fix some of the PSU wires? Is that a better place for it? I know it looks better down there from the front, but I really don't care much about looks. Is it even worth messing with again for a few degrees? I know moving it up cut about 2-3 degrees C during a benchmark, everything remaining the same. I only wondered cause my GPU runs hotter in this new case than my old Storm Scout. Probably because the old Scout had those cheesy slits on the side of the panel for side fans, but I had got to looking and realized the bottom fan was nearly completely blocked off anyways. Is it optimal for it to be down there or nah? I'm not using the HDD tray atm, so I could, or should, have just took that out when I put it together but I didn't.


I did the same thing, went back and forth on it, aside from looks with it low you at least get some air going to the PSU, not sure it does a whole lot but...


----------



## doyll

Destructodave said:


> Ok this is gonna be the stupidest question ever guys.
> 
> I got a Enthoo pro M. I have 2 140mm fans in front, 1 in rear. At first, I just installed an extra fan I bought below the factory installed one. But it seemed basically useless down there with a HDD tray in, and the PSU shroud/wires/etc.
> 
> So I moved both up above the shroud. Question is, should I put it back down there, take the HDD tray out, and try and fix some of the PSU wires? Is that a better place for it? I know it looks better down there from the front, but I really don't care much about looks. Is it even worth messing with again for a few degrees? I know moving it up cut about 2-3 degrees C during a benchmark, everything remaining the same. I only wondered cause my GPU runs hotter in this new case than my old Storm Scout. Probably because the old Scout had those cheesy slits on the side of the panel for side fans, but I had got to looking and realized the bottom fan was nearly completely blocked off anyways. Is it optimal for it to be down there or nah? I'm not using the HDD tray atm, so I could, or should, have just took that out when I put it together but I didn't.


Not at all dumb questions. But I need to ask a few questions before I can answer yours. 

What fans do you have in the case? Not all fans are created equal .. and if you have fans that are not as good as the stock 140mm fans that come with the case they may be doing nother that just an open vent can do.

Also what are you cooling CPU with and what GPU are you using?


----------



## Novak-Djokovic

ejb222 said:


> Just got my Silver Aluminum Evolv X yesterday. Can't wait to dig in. I'm waiting on Ryzen 3 and comparing their offering to Intel's before I build. This will be my first dive into water cooling as well. Think I'll start with just CPU. Thumbs up or down on XSPC blocks and rads?


I'm at same stage as you. I have the Asus Hero (WiFi) XI and the Evolv X, but still waiting for the 9900K and the EVGA 2080ti FTW3.

I'm going with EK for a custom CPU water loop:
*EK-Coolstream PE360 (40mm) radiator
*EK-Xres 140 Revo D5 rpg PWM (icl sl pmp)
*EK-Supremacy EVO, full Nickel water block
*EK-ACF Fittings, red, 10/13mm, (6)
*EK-CryoFuel, blood red premix, 900mL
*EK-fill bottle
*EK-ATX bridge plug
*Primo Chill- Prime Flex Advanced LRT flexible tubing, 3/8"x1/2"
*Noctua Chromax (black/red) case fans, front, top, and rear
*CableMods PSU cables (black/red)


----------



## Destructodave

doyll said:


> Not at all dumb questions. But I need to ask a few questions before I can answer yours.
> 
> What fans do you have in the case? Not all fans are created equal .. and if you have fans that are not as good as the stock 140mm fans that come with the case they may be doing nother that just an open vent can do.
> 
> Also what are you cooling CPU with and what GPU are you using?


I bought an extra Phantek fan to put in it; so all 3 are Phantek 140mm. I think I bought a 140SP(2 in front, 1 exhaust). CPU is cooled with a Gammaxx 400. Yea I cheaped out on it. GPU is EVGA 970gtx. I've noticed the GPU runs about 5-7 degrees hotter than my old CM Storm Scout in Overwatch. Ran at 57C in old case, Runs around 62-63 in new Phantek case. Old case had poor airflow; I'm guessing it was mostly the slotted side panel that makes the difference. During benchmarks the GPU gets up in the 70's. 75 with the fan on bottom, 72 both on top. I got a couple cheap 120mm fans laying around I could attach to the top for exhaust maybe.

But the fan on bottom is completely blocked by my own fault, not taking the HDD tray out (Was gonna use it but decided not to), and the mess of PSU wires I crammed in behind it. Cable management is kinda poor under the shroud. It started off great, but the PSU 24 pin connector was so freakin big/round I couldn't get the back panel to shut correctly so what started as nice wiring quickly turned into smear this stuff around until I can get this back panel back on the case. The inside/front of the case is fine on cable management, however. Just behind the back panel is where it gets messy.

Also, I haven't adjusted any fan speeds. Just plugged them into the MOBO and let them run. Seems top or bottom mounted fan had no effect on GPU temps in OW. Both placements run about 63 Degrees. I may take the HDD tray out and try to do more with the cables under the shroud and put the fan back down there.


----------



## nyk20z3

Had my Evolv X for a few weeks now and it has been great. I have a few negative thoughts on it but overall its exceeded my expectations as far as design and build quality. I have a few more plans for it i wont be custom water cooling anymore since ive been doing that for 10 years now and i am kinda over it. I will be going with this aio and changing up the custom cables to match the different gpu's i will be cycling through the system as i collect old and new gpu's often.

https://www.asus.com/us/Cooling/ROG-RYUJIN-360/

I am using the Phanteks 220 mm Premium Shielded High speed PCI-E x16 Riser Cable 90° for reference....


----------



## doyll

Destructodave said:


> I bought an extra Phantek fan to put in it; so all 3 are Phantek 140mm. I think I bought a 140SP(2 in front, 1 exhaust). CPU is cooled with a Gammaxx 400. Yea I cheaped out on it. GPU is EVGA 970gtx. I've noticed the GPU runs about 5-7 degrees hotter than my old CM Storm Scout in Overwatch. Ran at 57C in old case, Runs around 62-63 in new Phantek case. Old case had poor airflow; I'm guessing it was mostly the slotted side panel that makes the difference. During benchmarks the GPU gets up in the 70's. 75 with the fan on bottom, 72 both on top. I got a couple cheap 120mm fans laying around I could attach to the top for exhaust maybe.
> 
> But the fan on bottom is completely blocked by my own fault, not taking the HDD tray out (Was gonna use it but decided not to), and the mess of PSU wires I crammed in behind it. Cable management is kinda poor under the shroud. It started off great, but the PSU 24 pin connector was so freakin big/round I couldn't get the back panel to shut correctly so what started as nice wiring quickly turned into smear this stuff around until I can get this back panel back on the case. The inside/front of the case is fine on cable management, however. Just behind the back panel is where it gets messy.
> 
> Also, I haven't adjusted any fan speeds. Just plugged them into the MOBO and let them run. Seems top or bottom mounted fan had no effect on GPU temps in OW. Both placements run about 63 Degrees. I may take the HDD tray out and try to do more with the cables under the shroud and put the fan back down there.


Mine came with 3x of the PH-F140SP housing and motor with MP impeller fans and I'm putting all 3 as front intakes even though half of bottom fan is blocked by PSU shroud.

Be careful about getting too many fans going and creating what I call airblow instead of airflow. We want smooth front to back airflow so it is flowing cool air to both CPU and GPU cooler while flowing the heated air coming off of GPU back and out of case. Top exhaust in middle to front half of top usually draws the cool intake air right out the top and moves heated air up from GPU into the flow going to CPU. I almost always remove PCIe back slot covers for easier airflow out of case around GPU for the same reason .. to increase front to back flow an move GPU exhaust heated air back and out. You might find "How Airflow Works" and "Ways to Better Cooling" in link below of interest.\
https://www.overclock.net/forum/22319249-post5.html




nyk20z3 said:


> Had my Evolv X for a few weeks now and it has been great. I have a few negative thoughts on it but overall its exceeded my expectations as far as design and build quality. I have a few more plans for it i wont be custom water cooling anymore since ive been doing that for 10 years now and i am kinda over it. I will be going with this aio and changing up the custom cables to match the different gpu's i will be cycling through the system as i collect old and new gpu's often.
> 
> https://www.asus.com/us/Cooling/ROG-RYUJIN-360/
> 
> I am using the Phanteks 220 mm Premium Shielded High speed PCI-E x16 Riser Cable 90° for reference....


Yeah, I've noticed a couple of little things I wish were different, but like you said it's much nicer than other cases. I don't know of one I would rather have. 

Things I would love to see in a case:

Plug and play HDD cage option with door on front to access them .. Don't see how it would work on Evolv, but would be great on cases for data storage like media library and/or doing backups. Case is designed so we can have duel boot, so having easy access media HDDs would be nice too.
30mm double wheel caster option for base .. would give better airflow to bottom vent/s and makes cases so much easier to move around.
Full length bottom filter that slides out front .. Would be nice even on Evolv X to be able pull filter and clean without moving case. 
Locking feature with key that secures panels so perps can't open case, maybe fingerprint scanner near start button for easy secure login access. 
More USB ports .. maybe near back of top would be handy for charging things and external HDD use.
I could go on, but those are the biggest.


----------



## Destructodave

doyll said:


> Mine came with 3x of the PH-F140SP housing and motor with MP impeller fans and I'm putting all 3 as front intakes even though half of bottom fan is blocked by PSU shroud.
> 
> Be careful about getting too many fans going and creating what I call airblow instead of airflow. We want smooth front to back airflow so it is flowing cool air to both CPU and GPU cooler while flowing the heated air coming off of GPU back and out of case. Top exhaust in middle to front half of top usually draws the cool intake air right out the top and moves heated air up from GPU into the flow going to CPU. I almost always remove PCIe back slot covers for easier airflow out of case around GPU for the same reason .. to increase front to back flow an move GPU exhaust heated air back and out. You might find "How Airflow Works" and "Ways to Better Cooling" in link below of interest.\
> https://www.overclock.net/forum/22319249-post5.html


Yea, I wasn't planning on adding anymore fans. Just was wondering if I would get better airflow with it half covered by the shroud, or both fans on top of the shroud. Which was more optimal. I'll have to go back in the back of the case and fool with wires/HDD cage to make moving the fan back down worth it, was just wondering if it was even worth the effort over 2 fans above the shroud. How much air is actually gonna get to the GPU through the shroud? I'm not as worried about the CPU getting air as I am the GPU. 

Also, thats probably my only gripe about the case so far. The back panel. It has tiny little hooks on top/front/bot that all must go in their holes to close properly. Why couldn't it just be a grooved slide mechanism. I even bent one of the bottom ones trying to get it to close the first time. I don't have very many extra wires; none to be exact. I got 1 SSD, and basic power cables for a basic setup and its just a pain to close. I'm sure if the 24 pin wasnt a giant round log, maybe an aftermarket plug, it wouldn't be such a pain, but it was very difficult to get all 9 pins into their grooves and get the back closed correctly that I sorta don't want to fool with it until I get another SSD or something to add to the build. 


Outside of the back panel, I like everything else about the case.

Some day this week I try and fix it. At the time, I just wanted to get it up and running.


----------



## doyll

Destructodave said:


> Yea, I wasn't planning on adding anymore fans. Just was wondering if I would get better airflow with it half covered by the shroud, or both fans on top of the shroud. Which was more optimal. I'll have to go back in the back of the case and fool with wires/HDD cage to make moving the fan back down worth it, was just wondering if it was even worth the effort over 2 fans above the shroud. How much air is actually gonna get to the GPU through the shroud? I'm not as worried about the CPU getting air as I am the GPU.
> 
> Also, thats probably my only gripe about the case so far. The back panel. It has tiny little hooks on top/front/bot that all must go in their holes to close properly. Why couldn't it just be a grooved slide mechanism. I even bent one of the bottom ones trying to get it to close the first time. I don't have very many extra wires; none to be exact. I got 1 SSD, and basic power cables for a basic setup and its just a pain to close. I'm sure if the 24 pin wasnt a giant round log, maybe an aftermarket plug, it wouldn't be such a pain, but it was very difficult to get all 9 pins into their grooves and get the back closed correctly that I sorta don't want to fool with it until I get another SSD or something to add to the build.
> 
> 
> Outside of the back panel, I like everything else about the case.
> 
> Some day this week I try and fix it. At the time, I just wanted to get it up and running.


Case size makes it so 2.5x of 3x 140mm front intakes are above PSU shroud. Only way to have lower havel of bottom fan flowing air into motherboard compartment is by removing PSU shroud .. or modifying it by cutting it's top open back to 2-4cm in front of PSU. If intake fan speed curve is set so it's is synced with CPU and GPU fans and so case fans are flowing more air (10-20%) then CPU and GPU fans are using. The extra case fan airflow pushes the heated exhaust back faster than the component exhaust and keeps it from mixing in to and warming up the cool airflow to component coolers.


----------



## shilka

Finally got around to order the Luxe Tempered Glass since my old Luxe now has a massive problem with vibration noise, almost bought the Evolv X but the Luxe was cheaper
Cant live with it anymore as the noise drives me insane! should arrive tomorrow and i will move my PC over to the new Luxe tomorrow or the day after and i got a friend coming over to help me

Not going to bother removing and re-using the 5x Noctua NF-A14 FLX fans the 3x 60cm CableMod LED strip or the old Bitfenix Hydra Pro fancontroller 
First time in forever that i will plug my fans into the motherboard instead of the fancontroller so wonder how quiet or loud the new setup will be?

Worth my time to buy new 140mm fans or should i just keep the fans the Luxe comes with?
I should note that everything in my PC is at stock and it sits at ilde almost all the time so super high performance fans is really not needed

Edit: also hope they have fixed the problem with the HDD drive bays otherwise i will have to re-use the old ones as i can't be bothered to remove all the plastic pins with a pryer again


----------



## doyll

shilka said:


> Finally got around to order the Luxe Tempered Glass since my old Luxe now has a massive problem with vibration noise, almost bought the Evolv X but the Luxe was cheaper
> Cant live with it anymore as the noise drives me insane! should arrive tomorrow and i will move my PC over to the new Luxe tomorrow or the day after and i got a friend coming over to help me
> 
> Not going to bother removing and re-using the 5x Noctua NF-A14 FLX fans the 3x 60cm CableMod LED strip or the old Bitfenix Hydra Pro fancontroller
> First time in forever that i will plug my fans into the motherboard instead of the fancontroller so wonder how quiet or loud the new setup will be?
> 
> Worth my time to buy new 140mm fans or should i just keep the fans the Luxe comes with?
> I should note that everything in my PC is at stock and it sits at ilde almost all the time so super high performance fans is really not needed
> 
> Edit: also hope they have fixed the problem with the HDD drive bays otherwise i will have to re-use the old ones as i can't be bothered to remove all the plastic pins with a pryer again


The included fans are quite good. I would use 2x front and 1x bottom intake with 1x rear exhaust .. and remove the PCIe slot covers for more rear vent area around GPU and better front to back airflow so CPU cooler gets more cool airflow.

Case comes with PWM controlled hub that works well for the 4x 3-pin variable voltage fans case comes with.


----------



## shilka

doyll said:


> The included fans are quite good. I would use 2x front and 1x bottom intake with 1x rear exhaust .. and remove the PCIe slot covers for more rear vent area around GPU and better front to back airflow so CPU cooler gets more cool airflow.
> 
> Case comes with PWM controlled hub that works well for the 4x 3-pin variable voltage fans case comes with.


 The Luxe TG comes with two fans in the front one in the top and one in the rear from what i understood and they are already hooked into the fanhub so cant i just leave them as they are?
As for my motherboard i have no idea what kind of software the Gigabyte X99 Ultra Gaming has if it even has any kind of fan control software

I just want the motherboard to deal with the fans and not bother myself anymore
Edit: found the software for the motherboard and i could re-use one of the NF-A14 FLX fans on the floor of the case if that really helps that much


----------



## Melcar

shilka said:


> The Luxe TG comes with two fans in the front one in the top and one in the rear from what i understood and they are already hooked into the fanhub so cant i just leave them as they are?
> As for my motherboard i have no idea what kind of software the Gigabyte X99 Ultra Gaming has if it even has any kind of fan control software
> 
> I just want the motherboard to deal with the fans and not bother myself anymore
> Edit: found the software for the motherboard and i could re-use one of the NF-A14 FLX fans on the floor of the case if that really helps that much



Does your board have any advanced fan control in BIOS/EFI?


----------



## shilka

Never looked for it so dont if my board even has that but as i said i found the Gigabyte software for fan control
Been using an old Bitfenix Hydra Pro fancontroller for the last 6 years since i liked to control all the fans myself in the past 

Too much of a bother to turn them all up and down manually every time the CPU or GPU needs to do something which is why i wont re-use it
It has also gotten very worn and it looks like crap so time to retire that old thing and i believe its the oldest thing in my whole PC

Edit: bought my Phanteks Luxe back in september 2014 it turns out so its actually the case i have had the longest as all my other cases only lasted 2-3 years
Compare oldest picture to the newest, from X79 3820K with GTX 680 SLI and later GTX 970 SLI to X99 6850K with a GTX 1080

And yes i know the Phanteks metal badge on the lower right is upside down its always been that way


----------



## doyll

shilka said:


> The Luxe TG comes with two fans in the front one in the top and one in the rear from what i understood and they are already hooked into the fanhub so cant i just leave them as they are?
> As for my motherboard i have no idea what kind of software the Gigabyte X99 Ultra Gaming has if it even has any kind of fan control software
> 
> I just want the motherboard to deal with the fans and not bother myself anymore
> Edit: found the software for the motherboard and i could re-use one of the NF-A14 FLX fans on the floor of the case if that really helps that much


I used 3x fans in my luxe; 2x front and 1x bottom intake. I also removed the PSU shroud, but it's probably not necessary. With 4 fans I would move top to bottom intake and remove all PCIe slot covers. Control the 2x lowest fans' speeds based on GPU temps and top 2x on CPU temps.


----------



## lightsout

doyll said:


> Control the 2x lowest fans' speeds based on GPU temps


Doyll can you explain what you mean by this? I'm not aware of a way do do this automatically?


----------



## doyll

lightsout said:


> Doyll can you explain what you mean by this? I'm not aware of a way do do this automatically?


Some motherboards have have software and fan headers that can do GPU temp to rpm curves. Some need to use SpeedFan software. Usually one or the other will do it. You might be able to just use a motherboard component that heats similar to what GPU does. 

Key is to have case airflow cycling on same/similar curves to what CPU and GPU fans do so case airflow is always a little more than component is using. This is the way to quietest overall performance.


----------



## lightsout

doyll said:


> Some motherboards have have software and fan headers that can do GPU temp to rpm curves. Some need to use SpeedFan software. Usually one or the other will do it. You might be able to just use a motherboard component that heats similar to what GPU does.
> 
> Key is to have case airflow cycling on same/similar curves to what CPU and GPU fans do so case airflow is always a little more than component is using. This is the way to quietest overall performance.


I gotcha, thanks.


----------



## shilka

Finished moving the whole system to the new Luxe and i have a question does the fanhub really need SATA power? 

I was told that it needs that to work so i hooked it up and now all the case fans are on full blast which is louder than the old case with Noctua fans and no matter what i do in the software the case fans wont spin down

Is the cable to the motherboard enough?


----------



## ciarlatano

shilka said:


> Finished moving the whole system to the new Luxe and i have a question does the fanhub really need SATA power?
> 
> I was told that it needs that to work so i hooked it up and now all the case fans are on full blast which is louder than the old case with Noctua fans and no matter what i do in the software the case fans wont spin down
> 
> Is the cable to the motherboard enough?


Probably a stupid question....but is the header you have the hub hooked up to true PWM? And not the four pin DC variables a lot of MB manufacturers were calling PWM? Or is it selectable PWM/DC in BIOS? The fans running at full speed on that hub is typically an indicator that the hub is not seeing a PWM signal.


----------



## shilka

I have no idea i just took the cable that ran from the fanhub and plugged into the port labeled system fan1 next to the 8 pin EPS on the motherboard
Linked a picture and you can see that connector on the top left of the motherboard, its a Gigabyte X99 Ultra Gaming


Edit: this is how the system looks after the move to the TG Luxe
And yes i know cable management could be better but i was so tired towards the end that i just threw it all in and closed it up and i will work on it tomorrow or some other time


----------



## ciarlatano

shilka said:


> I have no idea i just took the cable that ran from the fanhub and plugged into the port labeled system fan1 next to the 8 pin EPS on the motherboard
> Linked a picture and you can see that connector on the top left of the motherboard, its a Gigabyte X99 Ultra Gaming
> 
> 
> Edit: this is how the system looks after the move to the TG Luxe
> And yes i know cable management could be better but i was so tired towards the end that i just threw it all in and closed it up and i will work on it tomorrow or some other time


That's the issue. System Fan 1 has no PWM. The CPU header is PWM by default. According to the manual, the CPU_OPT Pump and System Fan 3 Pump headers can be optionally set to PWM in the BIOS. So, you would have to use one of those three headers with the BIOS set correctly for the hub.


----------



## shilka

ciarlatano said:


> That's the issue. System Fan 1 has no PWM. The CPU header is PWM by default. According to the manual, the CPU_OPT Pump and System Fan 3 Pump headers can be optionally set to PWM in the BIOS. So, you would have to use one of those three headers with the BIOS set correctly for the hub.


 Yeah looked in the BIOS and only those two can be set to PWM and CPU_OPT Pump is already in use by the second fan on the CPU cooler so either i have to use System Fan 3 Pump which i dont think the fanhub cable can reach 

Or i could use a spliter and have both CPU cooler fans on the CPU fan header and have the fanhub on the CPU_OPT Pump header
Its almost 10 pm here and i am way too tired to do anything today

Edit: used a spliter for the two fans on the CPU cooler and pluged the fanhub into the CPU_OPT Pump and it now works so have made my own fan curve for the CPU and case fans and its much more quiet now so thanks ciarlatano


----------



## Novak-Djokovic

*EK CPU loop in Phanteks Evolv X > opinions*

I've come full circle in my thinking...3 months ago w/ a custom CPU water-cool, then back to the ease of an AIO, and now back to a custom loop...

Water-loop components at this point:
*https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-cryofuel-blood-red-premix-900-ml liquid
*https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-coolstream-pe-360-triple radiator
*https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-xres-140-revo-d5-rgb-pwm-incl-sl-pump pump/reservoir
*https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-supremacy-evo-full-nickel water block
*https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-acf-fitting-10-13mm-red fittings... EDIT>... black fittings
*https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-atx-bridging-plug-24-pin bridge plug
*https://www.ekwb.com/shop/filling-bottle-1000ml filling bottle
*https://www.primochill.com/collecti...-2in-od-retail-bundle-10ft-pack-crystal-clear tubing

Other rig components > Asus Maximus Hero XI MB, 9900K, EVGA 2080ti FTW3 Ultra, Corsair -3200, Seasonic 850 PS, Samsung M.2SSD (2), Phanteks Evolv X 

So, I returned the new WD backup HDD... more room for reservoir/pump. I'll get another m.2SSD as a backup drive or use my older external SSD


Setup of case: EK 40mm radiator & fans front of case as intake, 3 fans top of case as exhaust, 1 fan rear as exhaust. What do you think of that plan?


Thx for any input...


----------



## doyll

Novak-Djokovic said:


> I've come full circle in my thinking...3 months ago w/ a custom CPU water-cool, then back to the ease of an AIO, and now back to a custom loop...


That's two thirds of a circle mate.  Full circle would be custom loop, AIO (probably CLC) air, then back to custom H2O. 

Most of us consider CLCs a joke. They are about as effective as a fart against the wind when wind is 
$1000+ custom loop. Good air coolers and AIOs' (not CLCs) are more like an airboat fan against wind.


----------



## lightsout

Novak-Djokovic said:


> I've come full circle in my thinking...3 months ago w/ a custom CPU water-cool, then back to the ease of an AIO, and now back to a custom loop...
> 
> Water-loop components at this point:
> *https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-cryofuel-blood-red-premix-900-ml liquid
> *https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-coolstream-pe-360-triple radiator
> *https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-xres-140-revo-d5-rgb-pwm-incl-sl-pump pump/reservoir
> *https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-supremacy-evo-full-nickel water block
> *https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-acf-fitting-10-13mm-red fittings... EDIT>... black fittings
> *https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-atx-bridging-plug-24-pin bridge plug
> *https://www.ekwb.com/shop/filling-bottle-1000ml filling bottle
> *https://www.primochill.com/collecti...-2in-od-retail-bundle-10ft-pack-crystal-clear tubing
> 
> Other rig components > Asus Maximus Hero XI MB, 9900K, EVGA 2080ti FTW3 Ultra, Corsair -3200, Seasonic 850 PS, Samsung M.2SSD (2), Phanteks Evolv X
> 
> So, I returned the new WD backup HDD... more room for reservoir/pump. I'll get another m.2SSD as a backup drive or use my older external SSD
> 
> 
> Setup of case: EK 40mm radiator & fans front of case as intake, 3 fans top of case as exhaust, 1 fan rear as exhaust. What do you think of that plan?
> 
> 
> Thx for any input...


Sounds like a sweet rig. Seems good to me assuming there is enough air flow in the front of the case for the rad to breath. Some will probably say the top fans don't do much, but I don't think they would hurt anything.

Is that a CPU only loop? Those chips sound very hard to cool. If I was doing CPU and GPU with the components I'd probably want another rad up top if I could.


----------



## MoDeNa

doyll said:


> That's half circle mate.  Full circle *would be custom loop, AIO (probably CLC) air, then back to custom H2O*.
> 
> Most of us consider CLCs a joke. They are about as effective as a fart against the wind when wind is
> $1000+ custom loop. Good air coolers and AIOs' (not CLCs) are more like an airboat fan against wind.


I confirm the text in bold XD


----------



## MoDeNa

lightsout said:


> Sounds like a sweet rig. Seems good to me assuming there is enough air flow in the front of the case for the rad to breath. Some will probably say the top fans don't do much, but I don't think they would hurt anything.
> 
> Is that a CPU only loop? Those chips sound very hard to cool. If I was doing CPU and GPU with the components I'd probably want another rad up top if I could.



Considering your comment, I would add that to maintain a RTX 2080 Ti and 9900K with a good balance in terms of noise/performance, even two 360 rads in a case with not optimal air flow could become a nightmare. 

If it is only CPU loop, as it seems to be, for me the initial approach may be good


----------



## Scotty99

Heads up phanteks lovers:
https://www.newegg.com/Product/Prod...iption=p300&cm_re=p300-_-11-854-068-_-Product

39.99 after instant promo code and 29.99 after mail in rebate. Cheapest the p300 has ever been, grabbed one along with a 500w evga psu for 19.99 for a z97 motherboard i have laying around.


----------



## shilka

Scotty99 said:


> Heads up phanteks lovers:
> https://www.newegg.com/Product/Prod...iption=p300&cm_re=p300-_-11-854-068-_-Product
> 
> 39.99 after instant promo code and 29.99 after mail in rebate. Cheapest the p300 has ever been, grabbed one along with a 500w evga psu for 19.99 for a z97 motherboard i have laying around.


There is a reason why that EVGA is that cheap its rubbish
https://www.overclock.net/forum/31-...ou-should-not-buy-evga-400-600-500b-600b.html

Cancel that EVGA and order a Corsair CX instead as they are much better and that cost a ton of money
https://www.newegg.com/Product/Prod...on=CX550M&cm_re=CX550M-_-17-139-147-_-Product


----------



## Scotty99

shilka said:


> There is a reason why that EVGA is that cheap its rubbish
> https://www.overclock.net/forum/31-...ou-should-not-buy-evga-400-600-500b-600b.html
> 
> Cancel that EVGA and order a Corsair CX instead as they are much better and that cost a ton of money
> https://www.newegg.com/Product/Prod...on=CX550M&cm_re=CX550M-_-17-139-147-_-Product


It was 19.99 shipped with a 5 year warranty through evga, its also an updated version of the B series launched a couple months ago:
https://www.anandtech.com/show/13035/evga-introduces-br-series-power-supplies

It wont be powering costly components, z97 motherboard i got for free and likely a 4690k/gtx 970.


----------



## nyk20z3

Picked up this air cooler for the Evolv X build, currently ruining a 360 aio and had plans to install another 360 aio from Asus but as i always do i changed my mind. I am honestly looking for a streamlined stealth look with no tubing or anything floating around so this fit the criteria and is of course made by Phanteks. I also picked up a few more 140mm Halos Luxe Rings to add to the build.

I am running a 8700K for reference on stock boost and no additional OC


----------



## ikem

Got my first Phanteks case this weekend. Loving it so far. Just waiting on the gpu now. Went Grey monochrome so I could accent with leds.


----------



## scracy

So I have had the Evolve X for a couple of months now and finally I have got around to building inside the Evolve X, coming from an Evolve ATX TG I have to admit the Evolve X is better in many ways but there is still room for improvement. It would have been nice if the power button lit up as it does on the Evolve ATX also personally I found the sliding plates at the back of the Evolve X to be a pain, the old rubber grommet idea was easier and better. Lastly it would have been nice if the power supply shroud had a perforated top similar to the Evolve ATX to allow for power supplies that can only be mounted one way. On the plus side ventilation and radiator support is much better, I managed to mount 2 EK PE-360 radiators without any issues and the cable management system at the back of the case is way better than before. Only thing left to do now is wait for my custom cable mod cables to arrive as the cables supplied with the ROG THOR power supply are a bit thin and ordinary, overall very happy with the build, see signature for specs


----------



## Gilles3000

nyk20z3 said:


> Picked up this air cooler for the Evolv X build, currently ruining a 360 aio and had plans to install another 360 aio from Asus but as i always do i changed my mind. I am honestly looking for a streamlined stealth look with no tubing or anything floating around so this fit the criteria and is of course made by Phanteks. I also picked up a few more 140mm Halos Luxe Rings to add to the build.
> 
> I am running a 8700K for reference on stock boost and no additional OC


Just curious, why that cooler? Dealing with a weird motherboard, or is it just for looks, or something else?


----------



## paskowitz

scracy said:


> So I have had the Evolve X for a couple of months now and finally I have got around to building inside the Evolve X, coming from an Evolve ATX TG I have to admit the Evolve X is better in many ways but there is still room for improvement. It would have been nice if the power button lit up as it does on the Evolve ATX also personally I found the sliding plates at the back of the Evolve X to be a pain, the old rubber grommet idea was easier and better. Lastly it would have been nice if the power supply shroud had a perforated top similar to the Evolve ATX to allow for power supplies that can only be mounted one way. On the plus side ventilation and radiator support is much better, I managed to mount 2 EK PE-360 radiators without any issues and the cable management system at the back of the case is way better than before. Only thing left to do now is wait for my custom cable mod cables to arrive as the cables supplied with the ROG THOR power supply are a bit thin and ordinary, overall very happy with the build, see signature for specs



Really nice job! That is picking a theme and then staying true to it.


----------



## lightsout

scracy said:


> So I have had the Evolve X for a couple of months now and finally I have got around to building inside the Evolve X, coming from an Evolve ATX TG I have to admit the Evolve X is better in many ways but there is still room for improvement. It would have been nice if the power button lit up as it does on the Evolve ATX also personally I found the sliding plates at the back of the Evolve X to be a pain, the old rubber grommet idea was easier and better. Lastly it would have been nice if the power supply shroud had a perforated top similar to the Evolve ATX to allow for power supplies that can only be mounted one way. On the plus side ventilation and radiator support is much better, I managed to mount 2 EK PE-360 radiators without any issues and the cable management system at the back of the case is way better than before. Only thing left to do now is wait for my custom cable mod cables to arrive as the cables supplied with the ROG THOR power supply are a bit thin and ordinary, overall very happy with the build, see signature for specs


That looks great I really like it. Usually not a huge fan of red and black but that is done well.


----------



## nyk20z3

Gilles3000 said:


> Just curious, why that cooler? Dealing with a weird motherboard, or is it just for looks, or something else?


I have the Asus Apex X, i needed something that would not touch the ram since its very close to the cpu socket on the apex and i liked the look overall.


----------



## ceemuk

Hello Phanteks people!

Is anyone running an Arctic Liquid Freezer 120 in the Phanteks Enthoo Pro M Tempered Glass model?

As far as I can tell it will fit; just wonder if anyone's done this.


----------



## Gilles3000

ceemuk said:


> Hello Phanteks people!
> 
> Is anyone running an Arctic Liquid Freezer 120 in the Phanteks Enthoo Pro M Tempered Glass model?
> 
> As far as I can tell it will fit; just wonder if anyone's done this.


Haven't had that combo myself, but i'm 100% sure it'll fit, in multiple locations even.


----------



## dankan32

Helo. my name is dankan and because I will start to make my new gaming ring can you suggested me some cases for custom builds with comes with an integrated RGB lighting system , and also I want one very good case to have plenty of space for ssds and hdisks parts,, gpus and custom cooling and also to have very good airflow.. and also to have very good temper glass and also to have space for to put a lot of fans

I want to have very good Great cable management ,,to have 
Support for several liquid cooling options and also I want to Support just about any crazy build..( E-ATX and Mini-ITX build at the same time)

which are the best ultra towers for to look for;;

budget 800 euros maximum for ultra tower..
I need one ultra tower because I will put a lot of things inside,and I want to be comfortable in every part which I will put inside in the ultra tower. for every crazy build

I Found 2 cases but I am not sure if its worth to buy one of them


OBSIDIAN 1000D and ENTHOO ELITE SUPER TOWER CASE
i cant find reviews for these 2 cases so if someone has one of them i would like to give me some informations for these 2 cases.


----------



## dankan32

If someone has the ENTHOO ELITE SUPER TOWER CASE I wanted to help me to give me some information for this case


----------



## doyll

dankan32 said:


> Helo. my name is dankan and because I will start to make my new gaming ring can you suggested me some cases for custom builds with comes with an integrated RGB lighting system , and also I want one very good case to have plenty of space for ssds and hdisks parts,, gpus and custom cooling and also to have very good airflow.. and also to have very good temper glass and also to have space for to put a lot of fans
> 
> I want to have very good Great cable management ,,to have
> Support for several liquid cooling options and also I want to Support just about any crazy build..( E-ATX and Mini-ITX build at the same time)
> 
> which are the best ultra towers for to look for;;
> 
> budget 800 euros maximum for ultra tower..
> I need one ultra tower because I will put a lot of things inside,and I want to be comfortable in every part which I will put inside in the ultra tower. for every crazy build
> 
> I Found 2 cases but I am not sure if its worth to buy one of them
> 
> 
> OBSIDIAN 1000D and ENTHOO ELITE SUPER TOWER CASE
> i cant find reviews for these 2 cases so if someone has one of them i would like to give me some informations for these 2 cases.


While I don't have Enthoo Elite I do have many other Phanteks cases and from experience they are much better built than any Corsair I have seen. You might take a look at Lian Li cases too. They make some big cases too.


----------



## dankan32

I am, interested in ENTHOO ELITE SUPER TOWER CASE if someone has it I would like to give some information for this case


----------



## nyk20z3

Picked up a Aorus 2080 Extreme WaterForce for the Evolv X build, i will post pics of it mounted vertical in a few days for reference.


----------



## JustinThyme

dankan32 said:


> If someone has the ENTHOO ELITE SUPER TOWER CASE I wanted to help me to give me some information for this case


Does your country filter your internet seaches? Every major reviewer out there has done both the Enthoo Elite (Ordered one today to replace 900D for more rads) and the Obsidian 1000D. Which to choose is based on what your interest is and whats going in it. For me its simply about rad space at this point. About to replace 7900X with either a 7960X or 9960X. Im running 2 480 rads now and could probable shoe horn in 2 more 240s. In the elite I can do 3x 480 and 2x 360 with ease. Took me a year to swallow that price tag though. Only competition for this market segment was caselabs but they are no more. They blamed it on embargo prices but I cant see the cost of rolled steel from china going up to the point where you cant turn a profit on a $1000 case.


----------



## thedosbox

JustinThyme said:


> Does your country filter your internet seaches? Every major reviewer out there has done both the Enthoo Elite (Ordered one today to replace 900D for more rads) and the Obsidian 1000D.


FYI for anyone else thinking of responding to dankan32/yarden/james2030: https://www.overclock.net/forum/161...help-me-buy-best-full-tower.html#post27753996


----------



## nyk20z3

2080 Extreme WaterForce Mounted


----------



## lightsout

nyk20z3 said:


>


Thats a unique looking card. I like the vertical GPU thing with a water block on, but now you have the issue of what to do with those wires.


----------



## nyk20z3

lightsout said:


> Thats a unique looking card. I like the vertical GPU thing with a water block on, but now you have the issue of what to do with those wires.


Yes i am not a fan of it as well and will probably return this card and get a Strix 2080 or Ti


----------



## Abaidor

nyk20z3 said:


> Yes i am not a fan of it as well and will probably return this card and get a Strix 2080 or Ti


Interesting, I got an Evolv-X for a future family gaming PC build and was thinking of mounting the GPU vertically but had not thought about the cables....it will get a watercooled Asus Strix 1080Ti once I replace it in my main RIG. 

BTW - Get the 2080Ti with the money saved from returning the waterforce. Personally, I would not spend a dime over reference prices for a 2080 if I could get a 2080Ti instead even when I have to choose between water vs air.


----------



## bites

This is what I did with the cables for the vertically mounted GPU. I ran them from the back


----------



## Abaidor

This is neat. I need to unpack the case and start planning...


----------



## lightsout

bites said:


> This is what I did with the cables for the vertically mounted GPU. I ran them from the back


Yeah that seems like the way it needs to be done, looks nice.


----------



## nyk20z3

Might be going back to water soon in my Evolv X -

Black Ice Nemesis L-Series 420 Xtreme Radiator with a Phanteks Glacier R220/Alphacool DDC 18 watt pump sleeved


----------



## boli

*[Official] Case PHANTEKS Case Club for lovers &amp; owners*

Pictures and comments about my Evolv X water cooled build can be found here.



nyk20z3 said:


> Might be going back to water soon in my Evolv X -
> 
> Black Ice Nemesis L-Series 420 Xtreme Radiator with a Phanteks Glacier R220/Alphacool DDC 18 watt pump sleeved



Heads up: Couldn't find this rad on the HWLabs site, but their 420 rads I looked at (GTS for example) don't fit the hole in the PSU shroud in the front of the Evolv X - too wide at 153mm.


----------



## ciarlatano

boli said:


> Pictures and comments about my Evolv X water cooled build can be found here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Heads up: Couldn't find this rad on the HWLabs site, but their 420 rads I looked at (GTS for example) don't fit the hole in the PSU shroud in the front of the Evolv X - too wide at 153mm.


The L-Series 420 is 140mm wide, while the GTS is 153mm. The L-Series fit with little issue.


----------



## nyk20z3

ciarlatano said:


> The L-Series 420 is 140mm wide, while the GTS is 153mm. The L-Series fit with little issue.


You would be correct and that’s why I went with this series but the rad is still massive overall lol


----------



## deniskos

Hi, i just ordered FLoe riing 280 RBG along with the TT sync controller. I also have phanteks evolv x case which has a d-rgb controller as shown in the attached picture, labeled as third party d-rbg products. I know that the tt sync controller can sync with various mobos including asus. So my question, will it sync with the header from my case which by the way its identical with asus? They look the same to me. Any info is much appreciated. Thanks in advance.


----------



## nyk20z3

Any D-RGB adapter should work with it just fine.


----------



## deniskos

nyk20z3 said:


> Any D-RGB adapter should work with it just fine.


Thanks a lot mate!


----------



## sagascor14

Just planning out my first PETG build. I'd like to go with the Aquacomputer D5 Next Pump with a Watercool Heatkiller D5 tube Res.

Just wondering what my mounting options are in this case and whether to go with 100, 150 or 200 size for the res. My first loop build so I'm puzzled by whether I'd mount the whole lot with a stand (is there space?) or whether using the res mounting holes is the way to go? I think I would lose the case covers if I use the res mounting holes?

EDIT: case is Evolv X!


----------



## ciarlatano

sagascor14 said:


> Just planning out my first PETG build. I'd like to go with the Aquacomputer D5 Next Pump with a Watercool Heatkiller D5 tube Res.
> 
> Just wondering what my mounting options are in this case and whether to go with 100, 150 or 200 size for the res. My first loop build so I'm puzzled by whether I'd mount the whole lot with a stand (is there space?) or whether using the res mounting holes is the way to go? I think I would lose the case covers if I use the res mounting holes?


Which case?


----------



## sagascor14

ciarlatano said:


> Which case?


Oops, sorry! Evolv X.


----------



## bites

sagascor14 said:


> Just planning out my first PETG build. I'd like to go with the Aquacomputer D5 Next Pump with a Watercool Heatkiller D5 tube Res.
> 
> Just wondering what my mounting options are in this case and whether to go with 100, 150 or 200 size for the res. My first loop build so I'm puzzled by whether I'd mount the whole lot with a stand (is there space?) or whether using the res mounting holes is the way to go? I think I would lose the case covers if I use the res mounting holes?
> 
> EDIT: case is Evolv X!





ciarlatano said:


> sagascor14 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Just planning out my first PETG build. I'd like to go with the Aquacomputer D5 Next Pump with a Watercool Heatkiller D5 tube Res.
> 
> Just wondering what my mounting options are in this case and whether to go with 100, 150 or 200 size for the res. My first loop build so I'm puzzled by whether I'd mount the whole lot with a stand (is there space?) or whether using the res mounting holes is the way to go? I think I would lose the case covers if I use the res mounting holes?
> 
> 
> 
> Which case?
Click to expand...

I’ve been wanting to use the same combo in the evolv X. I have a tube 150 and D5 pump. I have the tube 150 mounted to the front radiator with a EK bracket. The heatkiller rails didn’t bring the res and pump high enough to clear the PSU shroud. I tried a tube 100 but it doesn’t mount well as it’s not long enough to mount properly on the radiator. 

You could go 100 or 150 with the d5 next pump but you would need to mount it to the back of the case. Might need to make some custom holes though. 150 might be a little tight and might not give enough clearance if you want to use the fill port.


----------



## Abaidor

I have bought an Evolv-X for a gaming build (for my son) and before I order any hardware for it I want to setup a custom waterloop that maximizes the cooling potential of the case. It will cool an overclocked 8600K or up to a 9900K in the future and a 1080Ti.

So I have been looking into radiators and I have narrowed it down to several few such as:

1) Hardware Labs Black Ice SR2 Xtreme multiport - Front (I need the extra ports) 
2) Hardware Labs Nemesis GTS 360 - Top 


I wanted to mount a 420 radiator at the from (Black Ice) but those are too wide for the Evolv-X and the only other option (no EK) for a 420 would be to go for an Alphacool Radiator but I am not excited about their quality. So what would perform better and Alphacool NexXxos UT60 420 or the Black Ice SR2 Xtreme 360? I was also thinking of utilizing the 140mm front fans that come with the case but this can't happen with a 360 radiator. 


Preferably and based on the color theme for the case I would like white radiators but the SR2 is not available in white but the Alphacool and the GTS is....anyway, let's ignore the color at this point.

What are the absolute best performing radiators that I could get for this case? Any suggestions?


----------



## ciarlatano

Abaidor said:


> I have bought an Evolv-X for a gaming build (for my son) and before I order any hardware for it I want to setup a custom waterloop that maximizes the cooling potential of the case. It will cool an overclocked 8600K or up to a 9900K in the future and a 1080Ti.
> 
> So I have been looking into radiators and I have narrowed it down to several few such as:
> 
> 1) Hardware Labs Black Ice SR2 Xtreme multiport - Front (I need the extra ports)
> 2) Hardware Labs Nemesis GTS 360 - Top
> 
> 
> I wanted to mount a 420 radiator at the from (Black Ice) but those are too wide for the Evolv-X and the only other option (no EK) for a 420 would be to go for an Alphacool Radiator but I am not excited about their quality. So what would perform better and Alphacool NexXxos UT60 420 or the Black Ice SR2 Xtreme 360? I was also thinking of utilizing the 140mm front fans that come with the case but this can't happen with a 360 radiator.
> 
> 
> Preferably and based on the color theme for the case I would like white radiators but the SR2 is not available in white but the Alphacool and the GTS is....anyway, let's ignore the color at this point.
> 
> What are the absolute best performing radiators that I could get for this case? Any suggestions?


The SR2 is available in white from PPC - http://www.performance-pcs.com/hardware-labs-black-ice-sr2-multiport-satin-white-radiator-360mm.html

A little math using XtremeRigs' results shows ~20% more heat dissipation with a 420mm UT60 over a 360mm SR2 at lower fan speeds (assuming a multiplier of 1.35 for surface area difference). But....coupled with the GTS, unless you are running absurd amounts of heat, you aren't even going to be able to measure that difference in real world usage (unless you consider staring at your computer while it runs synthetic benchmarks real world usage, in which case you really need to go outside more). And the difference in appearance, build quality and finish work is pretty substantial in favor of the SR2.


----------



## sagascor14

bites said:


> I’ve been wanting to use the same combo in the evolv X. I have a tube 150 and D5 pump. I have the tube 150 mounted to the front radiator with a EK bracket. The heatkiller rails didn’t bring the res and pump high enough to clear the PSU shroud. I tried a tube 100 but it doesn’t mount well as it’s not long enough to mount properly on the radiator.
> 
> You could go 100 or 150 with the d5 next pump but you would need to mount it to the back of the case. Might need to make some custom holes though. 150 might be a little tight and might not give enough clearance if you want to use the fill port.


Hmmm - wish I'd seen this before I pulled the triggers lol. I read the 100 didn't work with the mounts so I ordered the 150. Are you mounted to the rad or the fans - or is that essentially the same thing, options-wise? Maybe it's possible to cut-out part of the PSH shroud?


----------



## Abaidor

ciarlatano said:


> The SR2 is available in white from PPC - http://www.performance-pcs.com/hardware-labs-black-ice-sr2-multiport-satin-white-radiator-360mm.html
> 
> A little math using XtremeRigs' results shows ~20% more heat dissipation with a 420mm UT60 over a 360mm SR2 at lower fan speeds (assuming a multiplier of 1.35 for surface area difference). But....coupled with the GTS, unless you are running absurd amounts of heat, you aren't even going to be able to measure that difference in real world usage (unless you consider staring at your computer while it runs synthetic benchmarks real world usage, in which case you really need to go outside more). And the difference in appearance, build quality and finish work is pretty substantial in favor of the SR2.



In my use case I do not think that the 20% difference is going to harm given that the CPU won't be worked at 100% during gaming at least not all cores and all the time. Yet, I don't mind losing 100-200mhz overclocking if it means less voltage and lower temps. It does not matter anyway in resolutions of 1440p and above and that is the reason why I consider even getting an 8600K, delid (easy) and overclock it vs an 9900K which will go to waste in a pure gaming rig. 

An example of what I mean is this review https://www.techpowerup.com/reviews/Intel/Core_i5_9600K/14.html
You lose nothing gaming wise by going with an 8600K vs an 9900K, ok maybe just a tiny little of performance which is irrelevant. 

So the SR2 looks much better made and although I never had a Hardware Labs radiator I have read so much about them that I am persuaded. 

Has anyone by any chance managed to fit an SR2 on the top of the Evolv-X? Is there any point putting a second one in there vs the GTS? Is the air sucked from the case interior to the top radiator cool enough to do a proper job or is it preferable to suck air from the top? I am concerned about turbulence then if turning the top rad to an intake configuration..Most certainly, the top rad getting air from the case interior won't be as efficient as if it was getting fresh air from the top.....that's why I love exterior radiators but that is not an option here. I want it compact although compromised..


----------



## ciarlatano

Abaidor said:


> Has anyone by any chance managed to fit an SR2 on the top of the Evolv-X? Is there any point putting a second one in there vs the GTS? Is the air sucked from the case interior to the top radiator cool enough to do a proper job or is it preferable to suck air from the top? I am concerned about turbulence then if turning the top rad to an intake configuration..Most certainly, the top rad getting air from the case interior won't be as efficient as if it was getting fresh air from the top.....that's why I love exterior radiators but that is not an option here. I want it compact although compromised..


The SR2 will fit with no issues, but it will hang pretty low. No issue regarding performance, but it makes it a little harder to work with and isn't as aesthetically pleasing.

I'm not sure how much the improved top airflow of the X will do, but in the Evolv ATX top exhaust with proper rad isolation yields better performance than top intake. The top is just too restrictive for good airflow as an intake.


----------



## doyll

Abaidor said:


> 2 on the top of the Evolv-X? Is there any point putting a second one in there vs the GTS? Is the air sucked from the case interior to the top radiator cool enough to do a proper job or is it preferable to suck air from the top? I am concerned about turbulence then if turning the top rad to an intake configuration..Most certainly, the top rad getting air from the case interior won't be as efficient as if it was getting fresh air from the top.....that's why I love exterior radiators but that is not an option here. I want it compact although compromised..


Evolv X has many times better front and even more times more times more top venting than X, but the back venting is similar on both. This means airflow from top and front with both as intake will be dramatically limited by the exhaust vent area of back being less than either front or top alone .. and may times less if both are intakes. We need to keep in mind for optimum case airflow we need to balance the intake and exhaust airflow areas so one is not limiting the other .. because a case can only flow the lessor of of the two; intake versus exhaust. 

It's simple displacement; what flows in must also flow out .. or .. what flows out must also flow in. Case airflow is limited to the lessor of the two. 

If case has 8x intake vents/fans through radiators and only 2x exhaust vents/fans than the maximum case airflow is limited to what the 2x vents/fans can flow. 

If case has 4x intakes vents/fans through radiator and 4x exhaust vents/fans through radiator than case will flow up to 4x vents/fans through radiators worth of airflow.

Evolv X venting:
Front is 3x 140mm / 3x 120mm fans or 360mm 120mm rad / 420mm 140mm rad
Top is 2x 140mm / 3x 120mm fans or 360mm 120mm rad / 280mm 140mm rad
Rear is 1x 120mm / 1x 140mm fan + add venting w/o fans of about 2x 120mm fans .. total of 3x vents​This means if top and front are both intakes their total airflow will be about half what it would be using front intake with top and back exhaust.


----------



## bites

sagascor14 said:


> bites said:
> 
> 
> 
> I’ve been wanting to use the same combo in the evolv X. I have a tube 150 and D5 pump. I have the tube 150 mounted to the front radiator with a EK bracket. The heatkiller rails didn’t bring the res and pump high enough to clear the PSU shroud. I tried a tube 100 but it doesn’t mount well as it’s not long enough to mount properly on the radiator.
> 
> You could go 100 or 150 with the d5 next pump but you would need to mount it to the back of the case. Might need to make some custom holes though. 150 might be a little tight and might not give enough clearance if you want to use the fill port.
> 
> 
> 
> Hmmm - wish I'd seen this before I pulled the triggers lol. I read the 100 didn't work with the mounts so I ordered the 150. Are you mounted to the rad or the fans - or is that essentially the same thing, options-wise? Maybe it's possible to cut-out part of the PSH shroud?
Click to expand...

Mine is mounted to the fan.


----------



## Abaidor

ciarlatano said:


> The SR2 will fit with no issues, but it will hang pretty low. No issue regarding performance, but it makes it a little harder to work with and isn't as aesthetically pleasing.
> 
> I'm not sure how much the improved top airflow of the X will do, but in the Evolv ATX top exhaust with proper rad isolation yields better performance than top intake. The top is just too restrictive for good airflow as an intake.


I can see in the manual that the total thickness of an SR2 + Fans won't be the best aesthetically....I will make a mock-up of the radiator from a carton box to test it first hand in the case since I have it, before I order the radiators. If it is too low I'll get the GTS instead. 




doyll said:


> Evolv X has many times better front and even more times more times more top venting than X, but the back venting is similar on both. This means airflow from top and front with both as intake will be dramatically limited by the exhaust vent area of back being less than either front or top alone .. and may times less if both are intakes. We need to keep in mind for optimum case airflow we need to balance the intake and exhaust airflow areas so one is not limiting the other .. because a case can only flow the lessor of of the two; intake versus exhaust.
> 
> It's simple displacement; what flows in must also flow out .. or .. what flows out must also flow in. Case airflow is limited to the lessor of the two.
> 
> If case has 8x intake vents/fans through radiators and only 2x exhaust vents/fans than the maximum case airflow is limited to what the 2x vents/fans can flow.
> 
> If case has 4x intakes vents/fans through radiator and 4x exhaust vents/fans through radiator than case will flow up to 4x vents/fans through radiators worth of airflow.
> 
> Evolv X venting:
> Front is 3x 140mm / 3x 120mm fans or 360mm 120mm rad / 420mm 140mm rad
> Top is 2x 140mm / 3x 120mm fans or 360mm 120mm rad / 280mm 140mm rad
> Rear is 1x 120mm / 1x 140mm fan + add venting w/o fans of about 2x 120mm fans .. total of 3x vents​This means if top and front are both intakes their total airflow will be about half what it would be using front intake with top and back exhaust.


It certainly is not a good option to bring air from the top then (dust intake would be worse too I guess) so exhaust it is then and will balance this through the fans' speed with the back 140mm fan.

Working on my Cosmos 2 with an external radiator for my main PC (sig) has been so much easier when designing the airflow, here space is much more limited and air "streams" need careful consideration as well.Yet, initially this PC will not have the watercooled 1080Ti I mentioned at the beginning but a GTX780 until I upgrade my 1080Ti in my main PC...I might install it vertically though sine I think I read somewhere that it offers better temps but will need to test....anyway, one step at a time....first I need to finish with the radiators. 


To summarize - I am going with the SR2 in the front and will make a mockup to test another SR2 at the top and if too thick and ugly (i.e. covering the top of the MB) I will get a GTS instead....

For the reservoir I am going with a Heatkiller 100 or 150 D5 version but will use an EK D5 bracket and an EK D5 120mm Fan holder on the front Radiator...I also have some other mounting brackets from watercool so will see what looks best and does not restrict the airflow too much. I am not buying everything straight away anyway sine I am in no rush....I am building this slowly so will plan everything properly.


----------



## premierpark

Hi!


I would like to buy a new case instead of Phanteks Enthoo Luxe. My current choice is the Evolv X. What do you think about the Evolv X? 


Would you share your opinions with me?


Thank you


----------



## asdkj1740

https://item.jd.com/100001862079.html#crumb-wrap
Hydraulic Bearing, half price of f120mp
interesting offical spec, same rpm for 140mm and 120mm but having same noise level, while the airflow of the 140mm is way larger than that of 120mm one.
the rated static pressure is nothing impressive.
5v argb and 12v rgb variants connects with only phanteks specific cables, cant plug to mobo 5v/12v rgb header directly.


----------



## sagascor14

My choices in the Evolv X with a GTS 360 in front and top (each with 3 x Riing Trio 12) are:

1. Front intake + top exhaust and nothing at the rear. 

2. As 1 but with a 140 case fan exhaust at rear. 

3. As 1 but with a 140 case fan intake at rear. 

4. Front intake + top intake and nothing at the rear. 

5. As 4 but with a 140 case fan exhaust at rear. 

6. As 4 but with a 140 case fan intake at rear. 

Votes for which and why greatly appreciated.


----------



## scracy

sagascor14 said:


> My choices in the Evolv X with a GTS 360 in front and top (each with 3 x Riing Trio 12) are:
> 
> 1. Front intake + top exhaust and nothing at the rear.
> 
> 2. As 1 but with a 140 case fan exhaust at rear.
> 
> 3. As 1 but with a 140 case fan intake at rear.
> 
> 4. Front intake + top intake and nothing at the rear.
> 
> 5. As 4 but with a 140 case fan exhaust at rear.
> 
> 6. As 4 but with a 140 case fan intake at rear.
> 
> Votes for which and why greatly appreciated.


My Evolve X is set up as front intake top exhaust and rear 120mm exhaust as below  no heat issues at all making the rear fan as an intake seems to make zero difference as opposed to it being an exhaust fan and does seem a bit better in terms of airflow than what my Evolve ATX was.


----------



## ElectroManiac

Got a Phantek Pro M SE and it arrive today. Such a good looking case. Was between this and the Meshify C, but GPU limitations with a radiator up front on the Meshify make me go for the Phantek instead.


----------



## premierpark

premierpark said:


> Hi!
> 
> 
> I would like to buy a new case instead of Phanteks Enthoo Luxe. My current choice is the Evolv X. What do you think about the Evolv X?
> 
> 
> Would you share your opinions with me?
> 
> 
> Thank you




Someone?


Az én iPhone készülékemről küldve a Tapatalk segítségével


----------



## ciarlatano

premierpark said:


> premierpark said:
> 
> 
> 
> Hi!
> 
> 
> I would like to buy a new case instead of Phanteks Enthoo Luxe. My current choice is the Evolv X. What do you think about the Evolv X?
> 
> 
> Would you share your opinions with me?
> 
> 
> Thank you
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Someone?
> 
> 
> Az én iPhone készülékemről küldve a Tapatalk segítségével
Click to expand...

There are at least a hundred posts in the thread on this subject. Rather than asking for people to repost what they have already said....get some reading in. Your question was already answered.


----------



## Jspinks020

Frozen Power case. But really any old case man..something you can mount a rad. 
I don't need a full atx...so yeah it still looks like something like a Fractal.


----------



## Edge0fsanity

I'm going to start a build in an evolv x this weekend. Glad i checked this thread and got some information regarding the air flow issues. While designing the loop for it i was going to run both rads as intakes, i won't be doing that now. 

I am going to be running this for a couple months with an aio on the cpu and air cooling on the gpus. It'll have an 8700k and 2 1080tis in it. My initial plan had been to run the front case fans as intake and the aio in the top as an intake with the rear exhausting. Thats obviously not optimal. Would i be better off running the top aio as an exhaust and front as intake or front as exhaust and top aio as intake? I will push the cpu hard, its delidded, temps matter.


----------



## Jspinks020

This why I want the Cube..and I want tack this thing in there on the wall...it's absolute silence no fan needed promise you...how **** should of been done that fins is onnnn there. also no worries about the smaller size....just pumping through it etc. 

Or yeah other custom idea...I like it the cube size is perfect and could just have that mounted laying at the top even. I believe it's ok still.

Absolutle Engineering...24 sections and that much aluminum...oh my god lol


----------



## doyll

ElectroManiac said:


> Got a Phantek Pro M SE and it arrive today. Such a good looking case. Was between this and the Meshify C, but GPU limitations with a radiator up front on the Meshify make me go for the Phantek instead.


Pro SE is a good case. But unless you are doing a full loop I would not put radiator in front. I would use the 2x included case fans as front intakes and put radiator in top as exhaust. Sure, it might end up using air that is a little warmer than room but liquid cooling air temp to component temp not as sensitive air being a little warmer as air cooling is. For water cooling it takes several degrees warmer air to raise component temp a degree, but with air cooling it's almost a 1:1 ratio .. every degree warmer the air into cooler translates into almost exactly a degree hotter component will be (at same fan speed)



premierpark said:


> Someone?
> Az én iPhone készülékemről küldve a Tapatalk segítségével


What ciarlatano said. Or read some case reviews / watch some youtube talking head case reviews. 



Edge0fsanity said:


> I'm going to start a build in an evolv x this weekend. Glad i checked this thread and got some information regarding the air flow issues. While designing the loop for it i was going to run both rads as intakes, i won't be doing that now.
> 
> I am going to be running this for a couple months with an aio on the cpu and air cooling on the gpus. It'll have an 8700k and 2 1080tis in it. My initial plan had been to run the front case fans as intake and the aio in the top as an intake with the rear exhausting. Thats obviously not optimal. Would i be better off running the top aio as an exhaust and front as intake or front as exhaust and top aio as intake? I will push the cpu hard, its delidded, temps matter.


What AIO? Or is it a CLC rather than a AIO? 

But yeah, put the radiator in top as exhaust with all 3x of the included case fans as front intake speed controlled so they cycle with rad and GPU fans .. probably running as fast as they can without their noise bothering you when CPU and GPU are under load. We want the front intakes to move a little more air into case than rad and GPU fans are pushing out of case. That way they move heated air back and out hopefully with it not mixing and warming the air going to rad/cooler fans. What I said above to ElectroManiac about H2O loop vs air cooling air temp is important. It's not as much a problem for a little of the heated air from GPU mixing with and warming the air going into rad fans as it is for air going into GPU fans. 

I assume our 2x 1080 ti SLI have reference coolers? Experiment with unused PCIe back slots with covers removed and in place to see which way cools best.


----------



## Edge0fsanity

doyll said:


> Pro SE is a good case. But unless you are doing a full loop I would not put radiator in front. I would use the 2x included case fans as front intakes and put radiator in top as exhaust. Sure, it might end up using air that is a little warmer than room but liquid cooling air temp to component temp not as sensitive air being a little warmer as air cooling is. For water cooling it takes several degrees warmer air to raise component temp a degree, but with air cooling it's almost a 1:1 ratio .. every degree warmer the air into cooler translates into almost exactly a degree hotter component will be (at same fan speed)
> 
> 
> What ciarlatano said. Or read some case reviews / watch some youtube talking head case reviews.
> 
> 
> What AIO? Or is it a CLC rather than a AIO?
> 
> But yeah, put the radiator in top as exhaust with all 3x of the included case fans as front intake speed controlled so they cycle with rad and GPU fans .. probably running as fast as they can without their noise bothering you when CPU and GPU are under load. We want the front intakes to move a little more air into case than rad and GPU fans are pushing out of case. That way they move heated air back and out hopefully with it not mixing and warming the air going to rad/cooler fans. What I said above to ElectroManiac about H2O loop vs air cooling air temp is important. It's not as much a problem for a little of the heated air from GPU mixing with and warming the air going into rad fans as it is for air going into GPU fans.
> 
> I assume our 2x 1080 ti SLI have reference coolers? Experiment with unused PCIe back slots with covers removed and in place to see which way cools best.


It's a corsair h150i cooler.

I see what you're saying about the airflow setup, a bit of positive pressure makes sense here. Would it be worth running another fan in the exhaust location as an intake? I have an ek vardar I was going to place there.

The 1080tis are ftw3s, I've found from a past setup these work well in sli on air. Top card was high 70s for temps.


----------



## doyll

Edge0fsanity said:


> It's a corsair h150i cooler.
> 
> I see what you're saying about the airflow setup, a bit of positive pressure makes sense here. Would it be worth running another fan in the exhaust location as an intake? I have an ek vardar I was going to place there.
> 
> The 1080tis are ftw3s, I've found from a past setup these work well in sli on air. Top card was high 70s for temps.


Generally using the rear vent as intake doesn't work. Easy enough to try and see if it helps or hurts. If it helps, I would get a filter tofilter out the dust.


----------



## ciarlatano

Edge0fsanity said:


> doyll said:
> 
> 
> 
> Pro SE is a good case. But unless you are doing a full loop I would not put radiator in front. I would use the 2x included case fans as front intakes and put radiator in top as exhaust. Sure, it might end up using air that is a little warmer than room but liquid cooling air temp to component temp not as sensitive air being a little warmer as air cooling is. For water cooling it takes several degrees warmer air to raise component temp a degree, but with air cooling it's almost a 1:1 ratio .. every degree warmer the air into cooler translates into almost exactly a degree hotter component will be (at same fan speed)
> 
> 
> What ciarlatano said. Or read some case reviews / watch some youtube talking head case reviews.
> 
> 
> What AIO? Or is it a CLC rather than a AIO?
> 
> But yeah, put the radiator in top as exhaust with all 3x of the included case fans as front intake speed controlled so they cycle with rad and GPU fans .. probably running as fast as they can without their noise bothering you when CPU and GPU are under load. We want the front intakes to move a little more air into case than rad and GPU fans are pushing out of case. That way they move heated air back and out hopefully with it not mixing and warming the air going to rad/cooler fans. What I said above to ElectroManiac about H2O loop vs air cooling air temp is important. It's not as much a problem for a little of the heated air from GPU mixing with and warming the air going into rad fans as it is for air going into GPU fans.
> 
> I assume our 2x 1080 ti SLI have reference coolers? Experiment with unused PCIe back slots with covers removed and in place to see which way cools best.
> 
> 
> 
> It's a corsair h150i cooler.
> 
> I see what you're saying about the airflow setup, a bit of positive pressure makes sense here. Would it be worth running another fan in the exhaust location as an intake? I have an ek vardar I was going to place there.
> 
> The 1080tis are ftw3s, I've found from a past setup these work well in sli on air. Top card was high 70s for temps.
Click to expand...

I have a 360 exhaust on top, and using the rear fan as intake pulls temps up noticeably. Because of the position, all it does is suck in the rad exhaust, so air just keeps getting warmer. I get the best temps with the rear fan removed completely.


----------



## nyk20z3

I spent the last 2 days testing my 1080 Ti Lighting mounted vertically in the Evolv X.

I am seeing temps of up to 62C with the window off playing mostly Wolfenstein The New Colossus and Metro Last Light on Ultra. With the window on i am getting as high as 75C with an ambient temp of 25C. I am on the stock fan curve with 1 rear exhaust, 2 top exhaust and a 360 aio mounted up front sucking air in so i just wanted to give people an idea of where i stand. Obviously there is a decent difference in temps with the glass on but i also have a triple slot cooler on this pcb so it sits a little closer to the glass where as a 2 slot cooler might breathe a little better.


----------



## doyll

nyk20z3 said:


> I spent the last 2 days testing my 1080 Ti Lighting mounted vertically in the Evolv X.
> 
> I am seeing temps of up to 62C with the window off playing mostly Wolfenstein The New Colossus and Metro Last Light on Ultra. With the window on i am getting as high as 75C with an ambient temp of 25C. I am on the stock fan curve with 1 rear exhaust, 2 top exhaust and a 360 aio mounted up front sucking air in so i just wanted to give people an idea of where i stand. Obviously there is a decent difference in temps with the glass on but i also have a triple slot cooler on this pcb so it sits a little closer to the glass where as a 2 slot cooler might breathe a little better.


Room ambient is 25c, but what is the air temp coming out of radiator? I'm guessing it is at least several degrees warmer than room. Combine that with triple slot GPU being close to side and temps seem about right. Too bad Phanteks doesn't have a back panel and vertical slot adapter that had something like 5 slot width from side panel. Then GPU would have a much better airflow. They do have Vertical GPU Kit product code: PH-VGPUKT_01 to fit into normal PCIe back slot area with modifications (cut out PCIe spacer stips), but it is 2x slot so probably wouldn't work with your GPU. 















http://www.phanteks.com/PH-VGPUKT.html


----------



## nyk20z3

doyll said:


> Room ambient is 25c, but what is the air temp coming out of radiator? I'm guessing it is at least several degrees warmer than room. Combine that with triple slot GPU being close to side and temps seem about right. Too bad Phanteks doesn't have a back panel and vertical slot adapter that had something like 5 slot width from side panel. Then GPU would have a much better airflow. They do have Vertical GPU Kit product code: PH-VGPUKT_01 to fit into normal PCIe back slot area with modifications (cut out PCIe spacer stips), but it is 2x slot so probably wouldn't work with your GPU.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.phanteks.com/PH-VGPUKT.html


I normally WC but unfortunately there was not a decent block made for this card. I might just WC the cpu and try to fit this 420 Hardware labs rad up front but its around 55mm so its going to be a tight fit. If i end up getting a 2080 Ti Lighting at some point this year then i would be inclined to WC everything again. The higher temps are not affecting any performance while gaming so its no big deal but i was curious to test it without the panel on.


----------



## JustinThyme

Enthoo Elite Refresh rebuild complete. Well almost. Ordered a new blood red cablemods pro kit as well as their dominator light bar memory mod. They are slow as molasses. Took a week to get ship notification then it was just info sent then another week to get actual movement. This is on the memory kit only. Still no word other than order confirmation and they took my money on the cable kit.


----------



## doyll

nyk20z3 said:


> I normally WC but unfortunately there was not a decent block made for this card. I might just WC the cpu and try to fit this 420 Hardware labs rad up front but its around 55mm so its going to be a tight fit. If i end up getting a 2080 Ti Lighting at some point this year then i would be inclined to WC everything again. The higher temps are not affecting any performance while gaming so its no big deal but i was curious to test it without the panel on.


Indeed, 75c is not extreme, but warmer than we see when on custom loops. 



JustinThyme said:


> Enthoo Elite Refresh rebuild complete. Well almost. Ordered a new blood red cablemods pro kit as well as their dominator light bar memory mod. They are slow as molasses. Took a week to get ship notification then it was just info sent then another week to get actual movement. This is on the memory kit only. Still no word other than order confirmation and they took my money on the cable kit.


Looking good. :thumb:


----------



## ciarlatano

nyk20z3 said:


> I normally WC but unfortunately there was not a decent block made for this card.


https://www.amazon.com/Bykski-Water-Cooling-GTX1080Ti-LIGHTNING/dp/B0781DJJQ3
http://www.barrowint.com/index.php/article/859.html




nyk20z3 said:


> I might just WC the cpu and try to fit this 420 Hardware labs rad up front but its around 55mm so its going to be a tight fit. If i end up getting a 2080 Ti Lighting at some point this year then i would be inclined to WC everything again. The higher temps are not affecting any performance while gaming so its no big deal but i was curious to test it without the panel on.


Keep in mind that the HWL 420mm rads are wider than the cutout in the PSU cover, so there will be some cutting involved.


----------



## nyk20z3

ciarlatano said:


> https://www.amazon.com/Bykski-Water-Cooling-GTX1080Ti-LIGHTNING/dp/B0781DJJQ3
> http://www.barrowint.com/index.php/article/859.html
> 
> 
> Keep in mind that the HWL 420mm rads are wider than the cutout in the PSU cover, so there will be some cutting involved.


It would have to be a EK, Bitspower block, i am not a fan of those company's. 


I have the L series which is not as wide so it fits as a normal rad would.


The Black Ice® NEMESIS® Series L Radiators are designed for optimum placement, fit, and value. The Series L arrives in both Stealth (LS) and Xtreme (LX) form factors.

The Black Ice® NEMESIS® LX is a more compact version of the Black Ice® NEMESIS® GTX® radiators with a 120mm/140mm narrower width, maintaining comparable performance and sharing the same build quality with their flagship Black Ice® counterparts.

The Series L shares the same DNA with the industry standard Black Ice® NEMESIS® GT® GTS® and GTX® radiators and is built for (not with) system builders and equipment integrators who demand utmost reliability and value.

True to form, built-in Supercruise™ optimizations, give the Series L radiators provide true scalable performance to allow optimum performance in a wide range of fan speeds. All built with the same renowned Black Ice quality by Hardware Labs.

The Black Ice® NEMESIS® Series L are available in single to quad fan 120mm and 140mm form factors.


----------



## ciarlatano

nyk20z3 said:


> It would have to be a EK, Bitspower block, i am not a fan of those company's.
> 
> 
> I have the L series which is not as wide so it fits as a normal rad would.
> 
> 
> The Black Ice® NEMESIS® Series L Radiators are designed for optimum placement, fit, and value. The Series L arrives in both Stealth (LS) and Xtreme (LX) form factors.
> 
> The Black Ice® NEMESIS® LX is a more compact version of the Black Ice® NEMESIS® GTX® radiators with a 120mm/140mm narrower width, maintaining comparable performance and sharing the same build quality with their flagship Black Ice® counterparts.
> 
> The Series L shares the same DNA with the industry standard Black Ice® NEMESIS® GT® GTS® and GTX® radiators and is built for (not with) system builders and equipment integrators who demand utmost reliability and value.
> 
> True to form, built-in Supercruise™ optimizations, give the Series L radiators provide true scalable performance to allow optimum performance in a wide range of fan speeds. All built with the same renowned Black Ice quality by Hardware Labs.
> 
> The Black Ice® NEMESIS® Series L are available in single to quad fan 120mm and 140mm form factors.


Got it. Yes, the L Series fits with no issue.


----------



## ten8yp

Huge Phanteks fan... first Phanteks case was an older Enthoo Pro M then picked up the Enthoo Pro TG Limited Edition (with the white interior) last year. Absolutely love it. Look forward to seeing some cool stuff in this thread in the future.


----------



## RichKnecht

JustinThyme said:


> Enthoo Elite Refresh rebuild complete. Well almost. Ordered a new blood red cablemods pro kit as well as their dominator light bar memory mod. They are slow as molasses. Took a week to get ship notification then it was just info sent then another week to get actual movement. This is on the memory kit only. Still no word other than order confirmation and they took my money on the cable kit.


Looks great. I just got my new Cablemod Pro black/white cable set. Took a week from ordering to having it mu hands and I ordered during Christmas.


----------



## Edge0fsanity

I'm starting to compile a list of watercooling parts that i'll need to put a loop into my Evolv X. The one thing i'm unsure of is the radiators. I know i want to run a hwl nemesis 420 in the front. Is it possible to fit that same rad in the top or do i need to drop down to a 360 or even a 280?


----------



## boli

Edge0fsanity said:


> I'm starting to compile a list of watercooling parts that i'll need to put a loop into my Evolv X. The one thing i'm unsure of is the radiators. I know i want to run a hwl nemesis 420 in the front. Is it possible to fit that same rad in the top or do i need to drop down to a 360 or even a 280?


Consult the Evolv X manual and website. 420 in the front limits to 280 in the top. Two 360 is also possible, but 420 + 280 is more area and allows bigger/slower fans. Also, make sure the front rad is not too wide. Many HWL rads are 153mm wide, which is too wide. You have space for approx 145mm of width. According to earlier posts the L-series is 140mm wide and should fit.

*Edit:*
Here's a pic of my build with slim (28mm thick) 420 + 280 rads. Not too much space at all. 







More pictures here.


----------



## Edge0fsanity

boli said:


> Consult the Evolv X manual and website. 420 in the front limits to 280 in the top. Two 360 is also possible, but 420 + 280 is more area and allows bigger/slower fans. Also, make sure the front rad is not too wide. Many HWL rads are 153mm wide, which is too wide. You have space for approx 145mm of width. According to earlier posts the L-series is 140mm wide and should fit.
> 
> *Edit:*
> Here's a pic of my build with slim (28mm thick) 420 + 280 rads. Not too much space at all.
> View attachment 244936
> 
> More pictures here.


thanks for the info, i would have missed that width restriction for sure


----------



## nyk20z3

O yes, i still have my Phanteks LUXE TG alongside my Evolv X so i will be adding this when they release it!


----------



## PureBlackFire

I'm buying that Luxe 2 to replace my Luxe. 480 rad on the side mount? hell yes. it's beautiful, some design elements from the Primo/Elite updated. I like the grey color. I remember saying in this thread I wish they made a new Luxe that was basically a shrunken down Elite with a bigger side radiator mount for $200 and someone said I was nuts. haha, looks like they did just that.


----------



## smithydan

No Evolv ITX


----------



## premierpark

Hi!


What is the better way to add ssd to my case? On the photo 1 or 2? And Why? 











Thank you


----------



## The Pook

Cooling performance be damned, ain't she a beaut 

Got some dirt cheap "ring" fans and they don't look too terrible. The Mushkin sticker on the NVME is sure killing the red/black/white 'theme' though.


----------



## boli

premierpark said:


> What is the better way to add ssd to my case? On the photo 1 or 2? And Why?


I was lazy and just put my backup SATA SSD loosely into the cable salad in the bottom PSU area.  But let's say I didn't like either position, because the SSD would either be visible or one would have to take care when closing the latch so as not to bend any SATA power or data cables going to the SSD.

If you're not lazy, choose 1 if you'd rather not see the SSD, or 2 if you wanna see it. Just be careful when closing the latch.


----------



## doyll

premierpark said:


> Hi!
> 
> 
> What is the better way to add ssd to my case? On the photo 1 or 2? And Why?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thank you


Back of motherboard tray, not on cable management covers. Less cable flex means less potential problems with SSD cables.


----------



## Edge0fsanity

Finished up the first phase of my build. I think it came out pretty good, this is my first attempt at a uv/rgb build. I'll be putting a custom loop in this in a couple of months.


----------



## doyll

@Edge0fsanity
Looks very nice! :thumb:


----------



## AlphaC

https://www.kitguru.net/components/...uxe-2-eclipse-p600-and-new-watercooling-gear/


Neo G , Phanteks Eclipse P600, and Luxe 2


Interested in the P600 , fabric probably is a lot less noisy than metal mesh. It also has a type C port.








Measurements: 271-300 ft/min airflow through front


edit: Neo G ITX specs on *http://metallicgear.com/products/Neo-G-Series-mITX  , cooling perf on https://bit-tech.net/reviews/tech/cases/metallicgear-neo-g-mini-review/3/
*


----------



## nyk20z3

Any one running a 420 rad in the front of the Evolv X ?


----------



## ciarlatano

nyk20z3 said:


> Any one running a 420 rad in the front of the Evolv X ?


Yes.


----------



## nyk20z3

ciarlatano said:


> Yes.


how many MM with the fans ? I am looking at 80mm with the rad and fans plus the Phanteks R220 mounted to the rad and i tried a quick dry fit last night and it looks like its going to be a pain in the ass to slide the rad and fans in with the psu shroud in the way. I will have to remove the gpu and top fans to try and fit this monster.


----------



## KCDC

Became a proud owner of an Enthoo Elite in graphite! Leaps and bounds above any case I've ever used. I never really put money into a case, either, so I don't have much to compare it to. My last case was an EVGA DG87, and it was alright but not what I wanted in the end. Considering what this case cost, I plan to use it for many builds to come!


----------



## boli

nyk20z3 said:


> how many MM with the fans ? I am looking at 80mm with the rad and fans plus the Phanteks R220 mounted to the rad and i tried a quick dry fit last night and it looks like its going to be a pain in the ass to slide the rad and fans in with the psu shroud in the way. I will have to remove the gpu and top fans to try and fit this monster.


I'm using a slim 28mm 420 rad in front, with 25mm fans, which worked quite well (pictures and more pictures).
It helped a lot to be able to remove the top radiator bracket for installation. But with a thick rad and extra stuff on it (such as your res), it may indeed get tricky. I installed my pump/res combo on the back wall instead.


----------



## deniskos

Hi guys, anyone uses a TT sync Controller connected to a phanteks controller and not a motherboard header? I have a floe riing and 2 riing fans connected but only the pump works good. The 2 fans are not syncing their RGB led.


----------



## ciarlatano

nyk20z3 said:


> how many MM with the fans ? I am looking at 80mm with the rad and fans plus the Phanteks R220 mounted to the rad and i tried a quick dry fit last night and it looks like its going to be a pain in the ass to slide the rad and fans in with the psu shroud in the way. I will have to remove the gpu and top fans to try and fit this monster.





boli said:


> I'm using a slim 28mm 420 rad in front, with 25mm fans, which worked quite well (pictures and more pictures).
> It helped a lot to be able to remove the top radiator bracket for installation. But with a thick rad and extra stuff on it (such as your res), it may indeed get tricky. I installed my pump/res combo on the back wall instead.


The fans could ("should", if we are going by design) be mounted on the front side of the case....just sayin'......


----------



## boli

ciarlatano said:


> The fans could ("should", if we are going by design) be mounted on the front side of the case....just sayin'......


They are. Or maybe I'm misunderstanding you.


----------



## ciarlatano

boli said:


> They are. Or maybe I'm misunderstanding you.


My mistake, I forgot that the fan mounting position was changed from the Evolv to the Evolv X.


----------



## nyk20z3

I tried mounting my Hardware Labs 55mm rad/fan and Phanteks R220 combo up front but its just too wide and was practically sitting on the gpu. As you can see even with a slim rad up front clearance is at a premium so for now i mounted a 280 EK rad up top just too cool the cpu and test out this EK Neon Green fluid. I ordered this block for my 1080 Ti Lighting so when it comes in i will attempt to add another rad up front and run hard tubing.


----------



## d0mmie

PureBlackFire said:


> I'm buying that Luxe 2 to replace my Luxe. 480 rad on the side mount? hell yes. it's beautiful, some design elements from the Primo/Elite updated. I like the grey color. I remember saying in this thread I wish they made a new Luxe that was basically a shrunken down Elite with a bigger side radiator mount for $200 and someone said I was nuts. haha, looks like they did just that.


I looks really nice, I'd love one too. However I'm a bit skeptical due to my old Luxe TG had a lot of vibration issues with the drive bays. I hope they do a quality pass on the case before release, and make sure mechanical drives are as quiet as possible. They need to hit the same level as Be Quiet cases.


----------



## flyinion

Any idea when the new cases might hit? I was seriously debating between the Evolv X and Luxe tempered for my upcoming build I'm doing in the next couple months but if new cases are going to be here soon maybe I should wait on buying anything (cause I might buy before the rest of the parts).


----------



## doyll

flyinion said:


> Any idea when the new cases might hit? I was seriously debating between the Evolv X and Luxe tempered for my upcoming build I'm doing in the next couple months but if new cases are going to be here soon maybe I should wait on buying anything (cause I might buy before the rest of the parts).


From what I'm reading they should be releasing the end of this month. At least that is what was said earlier this month at CES 2019.


----------



## nyk20z3

I have the R220 mounted temporarily to a 140mm fan up front, Unfortunately my Black Ice Nemesis L Series 420 was too thick at 55mm and it wont work mounted to the front of the case using the R220. I will need to order a stealth version which will come in at 30mm and still that's cutting it close, i am use to full tower cases so it caught me off guard a little that this case has room but not as much as i was expecting when it comes to fitting larger rads.


----------



## flyinion

doyll said:


> From what I'm reading they should be releasing the end of this month. At least that is what was said earlier this month at CES 2019.




That would be great. After I asked I found references to computex in a bunch of the ces videos and that's not until May or something I guess so I was a little worried. 


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## flyinion

Hey guys quick question on the Luxe. I'm guessing no but is the flat vertical panel that runs along the drive cages removable when removing the cages or is it intended to be permanent? Just trying to understand if it can be opened up like an evolv x or if I should just go with an evolv or wait for the Luxe 2?


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## asdkj1740

rip the enthoo pro series, can eclipse replace enthoo pro in 2019?


----------



## doyll

flyinion said:


> That would be great. After I asked I found references to computex in a bunch of the ces videos and that's not until May or something I guess so I was a little worried.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


It's hard to say for sure. What is said at these trade shows about release dates is often not accurate. All we can do is wait and see.


----------



## AlphaC

http://www.phanteks.com/Eclipse-P600s.html
Official video 







It's a winner on value for money and design (it even has USB 3.1 gen 2), but I think Fractal Design has advantages in size (this case is larger than Meshify C and the Define R6 / S2)


edit: some fit and finish issues on the prerelease








The Phanteks P350X is flashy in comparison and the major problem I have with that case is 160mm CPU cooler clearance , in addition to lack of USB 3.1 gen 2 upgrades.

Performance per hardwareluxx with Ryzen 5 1600 system with True Spirit 120 direct cooler and GTX 1050 :
https://www.hardwareluxx.de/index.p...p600s-im-test-das-hybridgehaeuse.html?start=4


noise testing by hardware info (bit louder than Fractal Define R6)

https://nl.hardware.info/categorie/...taten?products[]=512023&specId=23841&tcId=475



-----------


Update where to buy:


https://www.phanteksusa.com/collections/cases/products/phanteks-eclipse-p600s


https://www.overclockers.co.uk/lp/phanteks-p600s.html


Launch date Feb 1:
https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811854084

https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811854083
https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811854082


----------



## OneFunGenesis

Quick question. I have the Enthoo Pro M and I’m wondering if I can fit a 30mm thick rad and fans in the front of the case while still using the front panel?

I would have to tear my build apart to find out myself so I was wondering if anyone has done this. 

Thank you’


----------



## ciarlatano

OneFunGenesis said:


> Quick question. I have the Enthoo Pro M and I’m wondering if I can fit a 30mm thick rad and fans in the front of the case while still using the front panel?
> 
> I would have to tear my build apart to find out myself so I was wondering if anyone has done this.
> 
> Thank you’


You could fit an 80mm rad and fans.


----------



## OneFunGenesis

Wow, the front compartment (from original fan mounts to front plastic panel) is that big? That would be awesome lol


----------



## ciarlatano

OneFunGenesis said:


> Wow, the front compartment (from original fan mounts to front plastic panel) is that big? That would be awesome lol


You're trying to put a rad there? I assumed you meant in the front rad mounting location.


----------



## OneFunGenesis

No i mean between the mesh front panel and the stock fan mounting location.


----------



## OneFunGenesis

Nevermind. I tore apart the front of my case and it does not fit


----------



## doyll

OneFunGenesis said:


> Nevermind. I tore apart the front of my case and it does not fit


Why are you thinking of fitting radiator in front of radiator mount instead of in back of panel where Phanteks designed it to go? :headscrat: confused:


----------



## OneFunGenesis

My res is very close to the front of the case, like within a few mm's. So I would have to move my res and pump which means I will have to re-plum my fill port (which is hard plumbed and drilled through the top of the case) and I was hoping to avoid all of this but it doesn't look possible.


----------



## doyll

OneFunGenesis said:


> My res is very close to the front of the case, like within a few mm's. So I would have to move my res and pump which means I will have to re-plum my fill port (which is hard plumbed and drilled through the top of the case) and I was hoping to avoid all of this but it doesn't look possible.


Makes sense now. 

Yeah, as much as I like the looks of rigid tubing I doubt I will ever build with it because of all the component changes I do.


----------



## OneFunGenesis

the fill port is the only hard plumbing I have and now im kicking myself as I will have to add/manipulate components to make it work again. I already spent like $60 on the components to make that fill port. Ughh


----------



## Banda

Question about cooling in the P400S TG

What is the better cooling sulotion. I have now in the front radiator withe 2 fans (nzxt kraken x62), in the back a 120 mm and in the top 120 mm fan, that came with case. My asus rog strix vega 64 is producing a lot of heat.

Is it better, to put the radiator in the top, and in the front 2 140mm fans?


----------



## Rainmaker91

Banda said:


> Question about cooling in the P400S TG
> 
> What is the better cooling sulotion. I have now in the front radiator withe 2 fans (nzxt kraken x62), in the back a 120 mm and in the top 120 mm fan, that came with case. My asus rog strix vega 64 is producing a lot of heat.
> 
> Is it better, to put the radiator in the top, and in the front 2 140mm fans?


There are many ways you could set up cooling in that situation, but there are really only 2 that you should consider:

1. Front Mounted radiator with exhaust fans in the rear and top.
- This has the benefit of giving you the best possible CPU temps, but at the expense of all other temperatures in the case (Graphics card, memory, VRM... etc)

2. Top mounted CPU radiator exhausting out of the case, rear fan exhaust and intake fans in the front.
- This will give you slightly higher CPU temps as you are using resirculated air from the graphics card cooler as well as the air taken in from the front. However, all other temps will be better as a consequence.

In general option 2 will be best as most of the time we have a lot more headroom with CPU temps than we do with GPU temps. Especially so with more modern GPUs utilizing boost functionality based on core temp.

In the end it depends on what you do with the computer and if lower CPU temps or GPU temps will be most beneficial to you. Unless you are running a crazy hot CPU (Something like TR4 or 2011 socket) you will likely get best results with option 2.


----------



## Banda

Rainmaker91 said:


> There are many ways you could set up cooling in that situation, but there are really only 2 that you should consider:
> 
> 1. Front Mounted radiator with exhaust fans in the rear and top.
> - This has the benefit of giving you the best possible CPU temps, but at the expense of all other temperatures in the case (Graphics card, memory, VRM... etc)
> 
> 2. Top mounted CPU radiator exhausting out of the case, rear fan exhaust and intake fans in the front.
> - This will give you slightly higher CPU temps as you are using resirculated air from the graphics card cooler as well as the air taken in from the front. However, all other temps will be better as a consequence.
> 
> In general option 2 will be best as most of the time we have a lot more headroom with CPU temps than we do with GPU temps. Especially so with more modern GPUs utilizing boost functionality based on core temp.
> 
> In the end it depends on what you do with the computer and if lower CPU temps or GPU temps will be most beneficial to you. Unless you are running a crazy hot CPU (Something like TR4 or 2011 socket) you will likely get best results with option 2.



Thanks. 

I think I keep it the way it. Maybe swap the stock fans for noctua's or maybe some rgb fans.


----------



## Rainmaker91

Banda said:


> Thanks.
> 
> I think I keep it the way it. Maybe swap the stock fans for noctua's or maybe some rgb fans.


You should set it up exactly how you want it, after all it is you system and it's honestly the only thing that matters.

As for fans, you could always check out Cyclops' thread with fan testing if you have yet to decide on anything. That way you can find something that fits your needs regarding everything from noise, performance or simply looks for that matter. https://www.overclock.net/forum/246...ete-comprehensive-array-tests-benchmarks.html

There is also the Phanteks Halos if you want to bring some RGB to some fans are not shipped with it. I can personally speak to their awesomeness as fan lights. http://phanteks.com/Halos.html

Either way, good luck


----------



## Banda

Rainmaker91 said:


> You should set it up exactly how you want it, after all it is you system and it's honestly the only thing that matters.
> 
> As for fans, you could always check out Cyclops' thread with fan testing if you have yet to decide on anything. That way you can find something that fits your needs regarding everything from noise, performance or simply looks for that matter. https://www.overclock.net/forum/246...ete-comprehensive-array-tests-benchmarks.html
> 
> There is also the Phanteks Halos if you want to bring some RGB to some fans are not shipped with it. I can personally speak to their awesomeness as fan lights. http://phanteks.com/Halos.html
> 
> Either way, good luck


Thanks again.

I was thinking about the in win polaris rgb fan, but the halos are a good option too. I have a gigabyte auorus mobo (h370), I have to figure out, how I can atach the rgb strip to the mobo and sync the colors with the rgb fusion software.


----------



## Rainmaker91

Banda said:


> Thanks again.
> 
> I was thinking about the in win polaris rgb fan, but the halos are a good option too. I have a gigabyte auorus mobo (h370), I have to figure out, how I can atach the rgb strip to the mobo and sync the colors with the rgb fusion software.


If a store sells the Halos they usually will sell these as well: http://phanteks.com/PH-CB_RGB4P.html

Teh halos can be chanied and if you want to hook them up with regular RGB strips you could use something as simple as an RGB splitter like this: http://www.coolermaster.com/cooling/cooling-accessories/1-to-3-rgb-splitter-cable/

So if you wanted to hook up any number of Halos, and rgb strips to a single motherboard header you would need one of those Phanteks cables (to go from Phanteks connector to regular RGB connector) as well as an RGB splitter like the one from cooler master (brand does not matter as long as the connectors are right).


----------



## Banda

Rainmaker91 said:


> If a store sells the Halos they usually will sell these as well: http://phanteks.com/PH-CB_RGB4P.html
> 
> Teh halos can be chanied and if you want to hook them up with regular RGB strips you could use something as simple as an RGB splitter like this: http://www.coolermaster.com/cooling/cooling-accessories/1-to-3-rgb-splitter-cable/
> 
> So if you wanted to hook up any number of Halos, and rgb strips to a single motherboard header you would need one of those Phanteks cables (to go from Phanteks connector to regular RGB connector) as well as an RGB splitter like the one from cooler master (brand does not matter as long as the connectors are right).


I was looking on the phanteks website, I only see msi and asus rgb software. Does it work with gigabyte rbg fusion?


----------



## Rainmaker91

Banda said:


> I was looking on the phanteks website, I only see msi and asus rgb software. Does it work with gigabyte rbg fusion?


The Gigabyte logo is there though so perhaps you should check again (it's next to the MSI logo). Besides, there is nothing special with the Halos lights other than the frame itself, the lights are standard thin strip of rgb lights. So as long as any motherboard uses the same kind of 4 pin connector and has the same pinout (they usually do BRG+(the + being 12v)) you could always rewire one as well if you get something that doesn't follow that standard.

Analogue rgb lights are controlled by very simple principles, so simple you could get the exact hue you want by ussing nothing but resistors. I'm personally wiring my own LED strips and single LEDs which were just bought from Aliexpress, all you need to worry with is that the LED strips run on 12v and that single LEDs get wired up using the correct value resistors. Things made explicitly for computers will usually work with minimal changes, so there shouldn't be any worry.


----------



## asdkj1740

disgusting gap on p600s front panel


----------



## ITAngel

Question, anyone here knows if the ASUS ROG MAXIMUS IX EXTREME Z390 motherboard fits into the Phanteks Evolv X? My motherboard I think is 12" x 10.9".


----------



## Rainmaker91

ITAngel said:


> Question, anyone here knows if the ASUS ROG MAXIMUS IX EXTREME Z390 motherboard fits into the Phanteks Evolv X? My motherboard I think is 12" x 10.9".


The Evolv X is sized for a maximum of 264mm in width (10.393700787") and it has a motherboard tray that curves outward, making it nearly impossible to fit anything larger than 264mm. If you want to cut it and modify the case then I suppose you could make it fit, otherwise you should probably look for either a different case or a different motherboard.

Is it the dual 360mm radiator support that draws you to the Evolv or some other reason? (it's a quality case, I'm just curious)


----------



## ITAngel

Rainmaker91 said:


> The Evolv X is sized for a maximum of 264mm in width (10.393700787") and it has a motherboard tray that curves outward, making it nearly impossible to fit anything larger than 264mm. If you want to cut it and modify the case then I suppose you could make it fit, otherwise you should probably look for either a different case or a different motherboard.
> 
> Is it the dual 360mm radiator support that draws you to the Evolv or some other reason? (it's a quality case, I'm just curious)



Air cooling and Phanteks said it will fit. So not sure since you are saying it won. Well I cancel my order with Amazon because of what you said but I am just looking for a case design for Air Cooling and that will support that motherboard because it is the ASUS ROG MAXIMUS XI EXTREME Z390 that I already have. Not sure the dimensions but it seems is 12" x 10.9" I could be wrong. I like the looks, quality and style of Phanteks.

I use to water cooled but no longer doing that just want a case that can support my drives, air cool my 9900K on air and my GPU. If you know of a case that can make cable routing easier and work with my hardware. Then I would like to know so I can look into it because I am running into the issue of support my CPU cooler tower and side of motherboard.


----------



## Rainmaker91

ITAngel said:


> Air cooling and Phanteks said it will fit. So not sure since you are saying it won.


I'm not going against anyone's word here, The Phanteks site says explicitly that the case will fit a maximum of 264mm width. Unfortunately I don't have the board or the case myself so I can not check for you and I am only going off what is listed.

Like I said, it might fit, but given that we are not talking about just a few mm here I seriously doubt it.

Also since you are going with air cooling there are a ton of other options for cases if you so wish that supports E-ATX in a multitude of sizes. Just going off of memory the Fractal Design Define R6, Phanteks Eclipse p600, Phanteks Enthoo Pro, Luxe, Primo and Elite should all be able to fit that specific board if the dimensions you gave are correct.

Are you sure the board is 10.9" (276.86mm) wide? Measurements given on sites are often of just the box.

Never mind, I looked at the regular Evolv... :doh:

Seems fine, you might need to remove some of the covers for the HDD mounts.


----------



## ITAngel

Rainmaker91 said:


> I'm not going against anyone's word here, The Phanteks site says explicitly that the case will fit a maximum of 264mm width. Unfortunately I don't have the board or the case myself so I can not check for you and I am only going off what is listed.
> 
> Like I said, it might fit, but given that we are not talking about just a few mm here I seriously doubt it.
> 
> Also since you are going with air cooling there are a ton of other options for cases if you so wish that supports E-ATX in a multitude of sizes. Just going off of memory the Fractal Design Define R6, Phanteks Eclipse p600, Phanteks Enthoo Pro, Luxe, Primo and Elite should all be able to fit that specific board if the dimensions you gave are correct.
> 
> Are you sure the board is 10.9" (276.86mm) wide? Measurements given on sites are often of just the box.
> 
> Never mind, I looked at the regular Evolv... :doh:
> 
> Seems fine, you might need to remove some of the covers for the HDD mounts.


Oh lol no worries what I got was Dimensions (W x L) 12.0" x 10.9" from Newegg. https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813119168
So if the Evolv X works then I guess I can order that case. However; which of the two support better air flow between the Evolv X and the ECLIPSE P600S ?


----------



## Rainmaker91

ITAngel said:


> Oh lol no worries what I got was Dimensions (W x L) 12.0" x 10.9" from Newegg. https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813119168
> So if the Evolv X works then I guess I can order that case. However; which of the two support better air flow between the Evolv X and the ECLIPSE P600S ?


I can't really answer that, but I do know the regular Evolv ATX has massive air flow issues. The Evolv X does have extra "slits" cut out in the top and front cover to help with this, but I honestly don't know how much that helps. The P600 on the other hand has a removable top and front cover making it nearly entirelly open (it does have a fine mesh covering them though). So I'm going to make a guess and say that the Evolv has better air flow if you run the p600 in "silent" mode (with all the covers on), but far worse if you have the P600 in "performance" mode.

Maybe someone who owns these cases could chime in so that we would know for sure?


----------



## AlphaC

Look at the review I posted from hardwareluxx. The P600S is better than Evolv X because temperatures are more or less equal despite Evolv X fans at 12V being 5dB louder.


https://www.hardwareluxx.de/index.p...p600s-im-test-das-hybridgehaeuse.html?start=4


It's confirmed by the hardware info review:
https://nl.hardware.info/categorie/...taten?products[]=512023&specId=23841&tcId=475


----------



## LeadbyFaith21

Rainmaker91 said:


> I can't really answer that, but I do know the regular Evolv ATX has massive air flow issues. The Evolv X does have extra "slits" cut out in the top and front cover to help with this, but I honestly don't know how much that helps. The P600 on the other hand has a removable top and front cover making it nearly entirelly open (it does have a fine mesh covering them though). So I'm going to make a guess and say that the Evolv has better air flow if you run the p600 in "silent" mode (with all the covers on), but far worse if you have the P600 in "performance" mode.
> 
> Maybe someone who owns these cases could chime in so that we would know for sure?


I can't speak for the Evolv X, but going from the Evolv ATX to the P600s, there is more airflow in the P600s in "silent" mode than the Evolv ATX. There's actually a fair bit of room in the side intakes for the front panel to allow a good amount of air through, though taking off the front cover for "performance" mode does increase airflow a bit, just not as much as I expected.

This is also with a hardware labs 420 slim rad in the front with Corsair 140ml fans pushing air through it (for reference on my experience with it). Given the airflow I get with the rad, if you're just air cooling in the P600s, you'll get great airflow even in "silent" mode.


----------



## Dogzilla07

Pretty much, Evolv X has better airflow with both it and P600s covers on, Evolv X is pretty decent as far as similar front panel cases go (slightly better than the Evolv ATX). If you like how the P600s looks with front panel removed, and are ok with the differences in the looks and not having aluminum construction (i quite dig the P600s looks for instance), the P600s might be a better option due to better airflow.

Hm, checking out and comparing the tests when p600s came out i don't know why i remember coming to the conclusion that at 900-1100RPM the Evolv X had better airflow than P600s with close front. Cross referencing the results from luxx with nl.hardware does indeed show quieter performance for P600s for almost same performance for what should be same fans on same curve and max speed.

And i can't find the damn max fan speeds for both, i think they were 1200 for Evolv X, but i'm not 100% sure. Were they 1200/1300 or 1600RPM, does anyone know ? 

Edit: Oh and I keep forgetting about angling the front panel on the P600s, that's another win for the P600s, and the same as removing the panel for the top fan, and the middle fan (gets like 2/3rds of air).


----------



## LeadbyFaith21

Dogzilla07 said:


> Pretty much, Evolv X has better airflow with both it and P600s covers on, Evolv X is pretty decent as far as similar front panel cases go (slightly better than the Evolv ATX). If you like how the P600s looks with front panel removed, and are ok with the differences in the looks and not having aluminum construction (i quite dig the P600s looks for instance), the P600s might be a better option due to better airflow.
> 
> Hm, checking out and comparing the tests when p600s came out i don't know why i remember coming to the conclusion that at 900-1100RPM the Evolv X had better airflow than P600s with close front. Cross referencing the results from luxx with nl.hardware does indeed show quieter performance for P600s for almost same performance for what should be same fans on same curve and max speed.
> 
> And i can't find the damn max fan speeds for both, i think they were 1200 for Evolv X, but i'm not 100% sure. Were they 1200/1300 or 1600RPM, does anyone know ?
> 
> Edit: Oh and I keep forgetting about angling the front panel on the P600s, that's another win for the P600s, and the same as removing the panel for the top fan, and the middle fan (gets like 2/3rds of air).


I want to say 1200 as well. They're not high speed fans, but they do well enough for strictly airflow. As for angling the front panel, it doesn't seem to angle as much as I was hoping, you can get it to like a 15-20 degree angle outwards, but it won't go farther than that, and any less causes the magnets to pull the front panel back on. Though it is easy to remove and reattach, so it can reasonably be left on for the majority of the time and taken off when you're having a long gaming/rendering/heavy load on your computer.


----------



## ITAngel

I see, you guys are making me re-think my choice. I do enjoy the looks, metal feel and rgp implementation on the Evolv X but I like the idea of opening that cover on the eclipse p600s for extra air flow and the style looks amazing. If it had RGB the way the Evolv X has I would be all over it but still is not a bad clean look of a case. I may consider it since the price is cheaper but I have to see how much of a performance different and building into it will be like between the two cases.


----------



## LeadbyFaith21

ITAngel said:


> I see, you guys are making me re-think my choice. I do enjoy the looks, metal feel and rgp implementation on the Evolv X but I like the idea of opening that cover on the eclipse p600s for extra air flow and the style looks amazing. If it had RGB the way the Evolv X has I would be all over it but still is not a bad clean look of a case. I may consider it since the price is cheaper but I have to see how much of a performance different and building into it will be like between the two cases.


With the front panel open in "performance" mode, I can just barely see my non-RGB fans through the front mesh. If you put some RGB fans in the front with that panel off, you'd be able to see them and possibly as little splash of RGB glow out the side slots when the front is closed. As far as building in the cases, it will be the exact same experience. The internals of both are the same, it's just the external panels that are different. In reality, they'll both be good cases, it's just if you want the look/aluminum of the Evolv X or if you'd rather have the flexibility of the P600s.


----------



## Rainmaker91

ITAngel said:


> I see, you guys are making me re-think my choice. I do enjoy the looks, metal feel and rgp implementation on the Evolv X but I like the idea of opening that cover on the eclipse p600s for extra air flow and the style looks amazing. If it had RGB the way the Evolv X has I would be all over it but still is not a bad clean look of a case. I may consider it since the price is cheaper but I have to see how much of a performance different and building into it will be like between the two cases.


I'm going to have to agree with LeadbyFaith21 here, both are great cases (or at least seems to be) so it's best to pick what you know what you like best (doesn't matter if it's for looks or performance or any other feature). There are also other good choices if neither fits what you want, I'm currently enjoying my Be Quiet! Silent Base 801 for example and it should easily fit that motherboard you are looking at, though I wanted it for the reverse motherboard, it's for my second PC so it need a window on the other side than my main rig.

Oh and if you want more RGB you can easily just cover everything in LED strips (I'm putting some behind the side intakes on my 801 for example).


----------



## ITAngel

LeadbyFaith21 said:


> With the front panel open in "performance" mode, I can just barely see my non-RGB fans through the front mesh. If you put some RGB fans in the front with that panel off, you'd be able to see them and possibly as little splash of RGB glow out the side slots when the front is closed. As far as building in the cases, it will be the exact same experience. The internals of both are the same, it's just the external panels that are different. In reality, they'll both be good cases, it's just if you want the look/aluminum of the Evolv X or if you'd rather have the flexibility of the P600s.



Okay Thank you makes sense!


----------



## ITAngel

> I'm going to have to agree with LeadbyFaith21 here, both are great cases (or at least seems to be) so it's best to pick what you know what you like best (doesn't matter if it's for looks or performance or any other feature). There are also other good choices if neither fits what you want, I'm currently enjoying my Be Quiet! Silent Base 801 for example and it should easily fit that motherboard you are looking at, though I wanted it for the reverse motherboard, it's for my second PC so it need a window on the other side than my main rig.
> 
> Oh and if you want more RGB you can easily just cover everything in LED strips (I'm putting some behind the side intakes on my 801 for example).


Thanks I am just simply downgrading from a tall Thermaltake Core X71 case to a mid side case. I do like the metal look and glass plus RGB of the Evolv X case but I do like that idea of uncovering that front on the P600s is nice. I do have my own fans to replace those with the Corsair ML140 LED White.


----------



## Dogzilla07

LeadbyFaith21 said:


> I want to say 1200 as well. They're not high speed fans, but they do well enough for strictly airflow. As for angling the front panel, it doesn't seem to angle as much as I was hoping, you can get it to like a 15-20 degree angle outwards


1200 makes sense, I was mostly trying to figure out if the max speed was the same on both cases. As for the fans themselves y their top speed is capped, but they are 1 of the top 5 fans in the world for 800-1100RPM speed (which is the best range for a balance of quietness and performance) and the reason phanteks capped them at 1200RPM. And they are actually quite good at working with resistance from filter/mesh/obstructed front panel due their impeller design, and generally having high static pressure numbers for low-medium speeds. 15-20 degree isn't that much, that bottom fan is not getting much air 



ITAngel said:


> I do have my own fans to replace those with the Corsair ML140 LED White.


At what speeds do you usually run the ML140s in your current case ?, and I'm guessing you will put 3 of them in front as intake ?


----------



## ITAngel

Dogzilla07 said:


> 1200 makes sense, I was mostly trying to figure out if the max speed was the same on both cases. As for the fans themselves y their top speed is capped, but they are 1 of the top 5 fans in the world for 800-1100RPM speed (which is the best range for a balance of quietness and performance) and the reason phanteks capped them at 1200RPM. And they are actually quite good at working with resistance from filter/mesh/obstructed front panel due their impeller design, and generally having high static pressure numbers for low-medium speeds. 15-20 degree isn't that much, that bottom fan is not getting much air
> 
> 
> 
> At what speeds do you usually run the ML140s in your current case ?, and I'm guessing you will put 3 of them in front as intake ?


3 of them are on my current case on the front and one on the back then another 140mm fan on the top back. I keep them on auto the motherboard controls them.


----------



## doyll

ITAngel said:


> I see, you guys are making me re-think my choice. I do enjoy the looks, metal feel and rgp implementation on the Evolv X but I like the idea of opening that cover on the eclipse p600s for extra air flow and the style looks amazing. If it had RGB the way the Evolv X has I would be all over it but still is not a bad clean look of a case. I may consider it since the price is cheaper but I have to see how much of a performance different and building into it will be like between the two cases.


Using case reviews is kinda lame considering they do not setup case airflow to match components and stock case fan setup is rarely flow enough air to supply components with the cool air they need. 

Keep in mind that Evolv series cases are top tier Phanteks cases while Eclipse series cases started out being entry level Phanteks cases.


----------



## LeadbyFaith21

Dogzilla07 said:


> 1200 makes sense, I was mostly trying to figure out if the max speed was the same on both cases. As for the fans themselves y their top speed is capped, but they are 1 of the top 5 fans in the world for 800-1100RPM speed (which is the best range for a balance of quietness and performance) and the reason phanteks capped them at 1200RPM. And they are actually quite good at working with resistance from filter/mesh/obstructed front panel due their impeller design, and generally having high static pressure numbers for low-medium speeds. 15-20 degree isn't that much, that bottom fan is not getting much air


Yeah, it doesn't give the bottom fan any more air (practically speaking, probably does technically). If I think about it when I get home, I'll take a picture of the front angled and post it here for reference.


----------



## ITAngel

Yea after being able to make up my mind I decided maybe keeping my case and re-arrange my studio better. Now is not so bad and is still up on my desk and not on the floor. XD I get enough air flow on that cause Just wanted a smaller case but now I might just focus on getting a new GPU instead.

Thanks everyone for your inputs!


----------



## asdkj1740

NEW STOCK FANS ON PHANTEKS P300
1500RPM MAX


----------



## AlphaC

I think the P300S and P400 need a redesign or revamp of the front panel to add airflow. The P350X makes them look bad in terms of features and airflow.


edit: A revision to add the venting on the angled side part as the P600S has would also make design more consistent across the Eclipse lineup.


----------



## The Pook

Ditched my P400 because it was too restrictive. Yank the front panel off if you don't care about it being ugly. 

Shame because it was a nice case.


----------



## asdkj1740

AlphaC said:


> I think the P300S and P400 need a redesign or revamp of the front panel to add airflow. The P350X makes them look bad in terms of features and airflow.
> 
> 
> edit: A revision to add the venting on the angled side part as the P600S has would also make design more consistent across the Eclipse lineup.


i remember the factory (xing-yu-quan) does have some specific models of "real" high-airflow oriented front panel to some retailers.
now phanteks has announced the neo air which is p300 with high airflow design front panel.
enthoo pro m is the high airflow edition to enthoo atx and p400. however even on the tg version of enthoo pro m phanteks still left lots of bad desgin there. it is hard for them to make any significant changes. redesiging the toolings cost them too much.


----------



## FeelKun

Looking at the p600s to replace my HAF-X. Few questions don't know if anyone can answer is where do the hard drives go? I have 4 4TB HDD's. Do the 3.5 cages go next to the PSU? If so how cramped would wiring be? How are the stock 140mm fans? Sorry, I've been out of the market a while.


----------



## AlphaC

asdkj1740 said:


> i remember the factory (xing-yu-quan) does have some specific models of "real" high-airflow oriented front panel to some retailers.
> now phanteks has announced the neo air which is p300 with high airflow design front panel.
> enthoo pro m is the high airflow edition to enthoo atx and p400. however even on the tg version of enthoo pro m phanteks still left lots of bad desgin there. it is hard for them to make any significant changes. redesiging the toolings cost them too much.


 https://www.techpowerup.com/253034/metallicgear-makes-premium-the-standard-with-skiron-series-fans
http://metallicgear.com/Skiron-Black-120


I think it's the Metallicgear Skiron series fan which is cheaper than the Phanteks one (MSRP is $7 for non RGB 120mm)




FeelKun said:


> Looking at the p600s to replace my HAF-X. Few questions don't know if anyone can answer is where do the hard drives go? I have 4 4TB HDD's. Do the 3.5 cages go next to the PSU? If so how cramped would wiring be? How are the stock 140mm fans? Sorry, I've been out of the market a while.



The HDDs go in the bottom near the PSU so it depends on if your PSU is overly long (over 170mm). The fans should be decent if they're based off Phanteks PH-140MP / PH-140SP and all reviews indicate they're alright.


edit: see page 16 (18 of 37 in PDF) which says that 195mm of PSU clearance http://www.phanteks.com/assets/manuals/PH-EC600PSTG.pdf


----------



## doyll

The fans in Eclipse series cases are not the same as fans in other Phanteks cases. Beyond that I can't tell.


----------



## FeelKun

AlphaC said:


> https://www.techpowerup.com/253034/metallicgear-makes-premium-the-standard-with-skiron-series-fans
> http://metallicgear.com/Skiron-Black-120
> 
> 
> I think it's the Metallicgear Skiron series fan which is cheaper than the Phanteks one (MSRP is $7 for non RGB 120mm)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The HDDs go in the bottom near the PSU so it depends on if your PSU is overly long (over 170mm). The fans should be decent if they're based off Phanteks PH-140MP / PH-140SP and all reviews indicate they're alright.
> 
> 
> edit: see page 16 (18 of 37 in PDF) which says that 195mm of PSU clearance http://www.phanteks.com/assets/manuals/PH-EC600PSTG.pdf



Thanks, Much appreciated! Using a EVGA g2 850 so it's 150mm I'll have more than enough room. Looks like I found my new case


----------



## asdkj1740

FeelKun said:


> Thanks, Much appreciated! Using a EVGA g2 850 so it's 150mm I'll have more than enough room. Looks like I found my new case


850g2 is 170mm (L).
take 180mm for cables.


----------



## GnarlyCharlie

Enthoo Pro -

420 Radiator in the top clear the back of the front panel connector bundle? Specs say up to 3 140mm fans in top, surely not at the expense of the front panel bundle.


----------



## Melcar

GnarlyCharlie said:


> Enthoo Pro -
> 
> 420 Radiator in the top clear the back of the front panel connector bundle? Specs say up to 3 140mm fans in top, surely not at the expense of the front panel bundle.



I think you would have to remove the HDD cover shield thing for the rad to fit, or to at least get it in there easily. Probably get rid of the 5.25" drive cage too. The video is not clear about the front panel. 3x140mm fans do fit without removing the i/o panel.


----------



## JustinThyme

gotta love this monster, Enthoo Elite. Just Finished Vertical GPU mount after finding a 2 Slot Nvlink Bridge.


----------



## GnarlyCharlie

Melcar said:


> I think you would have to remove the HDD cover shield thing for the rad to fit, or to at least get it in there easily. Probably get rid of the 5.25" drive cage too. The video is not clear about the front panel. 3x140mm fans do fit without removing the i/o panel.


Yeah, I've watched that vid and the part where the front I/O is removed is missing. He mentions that the rad has to be slid back to keep from hitting the on/off button, and the on/off button seems to be to the rear of the I/O stuff - looks like the I/O groups sets out towards the front a little to make it end up flush with the front cover. 

Research continues.


----------



## Melcar

GnarlyCharlie said:


> Yeah, I've watched that vid and the part where the front I/O is removed is missing. He mentions that the rad has to be slid back to keep from hitting the on/off button, and the on/off button seems to be to the rear of the I/O stuff - looks like the I/O groups sets out towards the front a little to make it end up flush with the front cover.
> 
> 
> 
> Research continues.


The i/o block screws into the metal front panel, sticking out towards the front. The cables stick out towards the back of the panel block like half a cm or so. The actual power button sits like a 2 cm or so further back. Will check it when I get home.

Edit: Old pic, but it sort of shows the distance...

Sent from my Redmi 4A using Tapatalk


----------



## GnarlyCharlie

That pic helps a lot. If the rad can be made to fit and stay to the rear of that on/off button assembly, it might have a chance.


----------



## AlphaC

https://www.guru3d.com/articles_pages/phanteks_eclipse_p600s_review,10.html


P600S appears to be more quiet than Be Quiet Silent Base 601


----------



## doyll

AlphaC said:


> https://www.guru3d.com/articles_pages/phanteks_eclipse_p600s_review,10.html
> 
> 
> P600S appears to be more quiet than Be Quiet Silent Base 601


The sound pressure level is about the same, but that does not take into account how they sound. Some sounds a not as intrusive as others. We need to keep in mind that it takes 3dB for our ears to even hear a difference in sound level.


----------



## asdkj1740

the fabric is ,as expected, a dust collector and it is hard to clean as it cant be separated from the front panel.

i was going to remove the plastic covers on p600s's sides ventilation, but found out it is also a part of the front panel to hold the front panel in place to the case.


enthoo pro m & p600s side by side
http://yujihw.com/review/cheap-evolv-x-phanteks-eclipse-p600s-tempered-glass-ubboxing/5


----------



## GnarlyCharlie

Melcar said:


> I think you would have to remove the HDD cover shield thing for the rad to fit, or to at least get it in there easily. Probably get rid of the 5.25" drive cage too. The video is not clear about the front panel. 3x140mm fans do fit without removing the i/o panel.
> 
> 
> https://youtu.be/guBAl6g8BlY


OK, got an Enthoo Pro, a GTX 420 and a GTX 280. Yes, the 420 rad (same one as in the above vid) will fit. As long as you don't try to hang any fans off of it. Even fans one one side will hit the motherboard. That's a thick rad, 54mm I think is the spec.

Before I get to the next phase, let me say that I really like this case. The way it can be disassembled makes it very mod-able.

So time to whip out the angle grinder. I mounted the push pull 280 first, and Bill mentions in his vid that the stock mounting points are just a little off to allow the GTX 280 to fit. You can use the stock mounting points, you just have to cut a hole in the floor - I'm mounting the in/out of the rad at the bottom, as this is where I hope to install the drain valve. I also cut a hole in the bottom of the 5.25" drive bay enclosure, but I think I could have left this alone after it was all said and done, just some relief at the bottom seemed to do the trick. But the side panel has a stiffening flange where the 200mm fan comes through, and that sticks out far enough to keep the radiator from fitting side to side so it had to go.

OK, front rad fitted and looking good. Time for the top rad. 

I could have bought a thinner rad, or a shorter rad, or a narrower rad - any number of possibilities other than go ahead and use the GTX 420. But I wanted the GTX 420 in push pull in this case. I had already purchased the 140mm fans for both rads push pull. And I have a grinder. Right off, first mock up, I can see the top mobo mounting stand offs are WAY too far up behind the radiator with just one set of fans on there. No way it'll ever clear. I temporarily mount the mobo and now it's obvious that nothing is going to clear the VRM heatsink other than maybe just a fan. So I moved the radiator over 30mm towards the side away from the mobo and that's looking good. I had to cut the corner off the plastic in/out shroud thing, and leave one of the corner mounting points off the back fan (my first be quiet! fans, I like that removable mounting point), but it all cleared.

Well, would have cleared except for that hard drive side panel thing. And that's the kicker, I'm old. Old school. Computers have optical drives, so I'm leaving the 5.25" drive bays in there. Or at least a couple of them. Had to cut the top 5.25" bay out right above the 2nd quick release to let the radiator move over enough. I could have cut the 2nd one out, but there's a screw where the panel mounts to the front that really helps with the integrity of the structure up there and it's just below where I made the cut. The only fatality was no pull fan in the front station, push only there, but putting a fan there would have made it real tight for the bends coming from the radiator clearing the top of the optical drive, anyway (hard tube). Still have 3 push, 2 pull. Moving the rad over 30mm meant that none of the mounting holes (slots, actually) would still be usable, time to drill some new mounting holes.

That would have been easy enough for the near side, next to the removable side panel, but the other row of screws were out in the middle of the open area where the fans would be. I made some tabs from thin aluminum to mount those screws to, of course now half the fan was under solid metal on the near side - time to whip out the grinder again and open up some area over where the fans are now.

Stuffing it will be like one of those slide puzzles. There will be no way to get to the 8 pin mobo power headers, have to plug those in before I mount the top rad. And there are some fan headers up there, too. I'll just put extensions on all of them and use the ones I need.

But when it's finished, it will be a very nicely packed Enthoo Pro with some good radiator area & push/pull fans (mostly). And an optical drive.

I'll try to get some pics of it in various stages of re-assembly, it's not as gruesome as it sounds.


----------



## Rainmaker91

So given that my design is finally starting to take shape after way to much time on the shelf I figure you guys might want to see a how I'm doing my current build in the Enthoo Primo.

Here is the first test fit of my panels, they are unpainted and will need to be hand fitted to the case, but I'm starting to like how my design is turning out.

The build log can be found here if you are curious about it's progress going forward, though there isn't all that much there yet.


----------



## SolarNova

For the Enthoo Primo, what are the dimensions for the space in the top rad mount ?

I know its 480mm compatible, but is it 2x 240mm compatible?

Basically i know a 480mm rad can measure say 526mm in length, but 2x 240mm can measure 572mm in length.


----------



## Rainmaker91

SolarNova said:


> For the Enthoo Primo, what are the dimensions for the space in the top rad mount ?
> 
> I know its 480mm compatible, but is it 2x 240mm compatible?
> 
> Basically i know a 480mm rad can measure say 526mm in length, but 2x 240mm can measure 572mm in length.


I couldn't tell you exactly, as I heavily modified my top panel. Still I'd say no, even if you modify/replace the mounting rails like I did you are just not going to fit that inside the case itself. The total available length inside the case itself measuring from back to front is 550mm, or probably a millimeter or two more as the cover plates that you see in my post are 550mm long and are a fairly snug fit in this case.

Still if you want you can easily fit 2x 240mm rads + a 360mm in the bottom at the same time, though 480mm is max for the top.


----------



## SolarNova

Rainmaker91 said:


> I couldn't tell you exactly, as I heavily modified my top panel. Still I'd say no, even if you modify/replace the mounting rails like I did you are just not going to fit that inside the case itself. The total available length inside the case itself measuring from back to front is 550mm, or probably a millimeter or two more as the cover plates that you see in my post are 550mm long and are a fairly snug fit in this case.
> 
> Still if you want you can easily fit 2x 240mm rads + a 360mm in the bottom at the same time, though 480mm is max for the top.



Ok thanks, figured it was a long shot, no worries ill just have a single 240 up top , a 240 in the back and my Monsta 240 at the bottom. 

Cheers.


----------



## flyinion

Has anyone heard when the Luxe 2 is actually coming? I ended up going with a different case instead of waiting, but I can always upgrade later


----------



## Rainmaker91

SolarNova said:


> Ok thanks, figured it was a long shot, no worries ill just have a single 240 up top , a 240 in the back and my Monsta 240 at the bottom.
> 
> Cheers.


With this case there is really no need to be hanging rads outside the case if that is what you were implying with "in the back" There is a front mount for 240mm-280mm (30mm if combined with HDD cage or side rad, but no limit without them) a side mount in the front for a 240mm rad (again limited in the same way the front intake one would be). Then there is the option for a thick 280mm rad in the bottom or 420mm if you remove the drive cage. With the drive cage mounted and only top part populated there is the option for up to a 480mm monsta rad in the bottom (it can not be wider than an alphacool Nexxxos rad though, so there is no support for more than a 240mm HW labs in the bottom with the cage mounted).

Honestly there is so many mounting possibilities in the case that it can almost be difficult deciding on what to go with.


----------



## SolarNova

Rainmaker91 said:


> With this case there is really no need to be hanging rads outside the case if that is what you were implying with "in the back" There is a front mount for 240mm-280mm (30mm if combined with HDD cage or side rad, but no limit without them) a side mount in the front for a 240mm rad (again limited in the same way the front intake one would be). Then there is the option for a thick 280mm rad in the bottom or 420mm if you remove the drive cage. With the drive cage mounted and only top part populated there is the option for up to a 480mm monsta rad in the bottom (it can not be wider than an alphacool Nexxxos rad though, so there is no support for more than a 240mm HW labs in the bottom with the cage mounted).
> 
> Honestly there is so many mounting possibilities in the case that it can almost be difficult deciding on what to go with.


Yea by 'back' i mean 'side mount'.

Ive gone the route of bolting a rad to the rear of the case, its what i have now. This new case is for a refresh build since i just got a 1080ti to replace my old 780 classi. Wanted a case that can actually hold all 3 rads natively ,, which it can.

Current plan is below. White soft tubing so i don't have to buy new fittings, going to try keep runs as straight as best i can with what i have. 4x 45degree fittings and 8 straight.

I may see if i can get a vertical GPU mount , dunno yet till i have the case in hand.


----------



## Rainmaker91

SolarNova said:


> Yea by 'back' i mean 'side mount'.
> 
> Ive gone the route of bolting a rad to the rear of the case, its what i have now. This new case is for a refresh build since i just got a 1080ti to replace my old 780 classi. Wanted a case that can actually hold all 3 rads natively ,, which it can.
> 
> Current plan is below. White soft tubing so i don't have to buy new fittings, going to try keep runs as straight as best i can with what i have. 4x 45degree fittings and 8 straight.
> 
> I may see if i can get a vertical GPU mount , dunno yet till i have the case in hand.


Not bad, though I personally would do a few changes to that layout.

1. Flip the side mounted rad so that the ports are at the bottom, it makes for shorter and easier runs in this case.
2. Assuming the Monsa rad is an Alphacool radiator (It's honestly the only "monsta" rads I know about) you should have in/out ports on the end of the tanks as well as both top and bottom of the rad. Use one of these to do the run to the side mounted rad for a cleaner run.
3.While you can do a res mount at that position it really makes it hard to work on the build if you ever wand to do something. Placing it next to the motherboard makes for an easier and quite frankly better build layout in my opinion. The pictures attached to this post show a 150mm tall 60mm wide (the reservoir alone) Bitspower DDC res combo and a monsta with push fans in top.

In the end it's up to you, but I'm starting to get a lot of experience building in this case. Hopefully you figure out a cool layout that suits your tastes.


----------



## SolarNova

Rainmaker91 said:


> Not bad, though I personally would do a few changes to that layout.
> 
> 1. Flip the side mounted rad so that the ports are at the bottom, it makes for shorter and easier runs in this case.
> 2. Assuming the Monsa rad is an Alphacool radiator (It's honestly the only "monsta" rads I know about) you should have in/out ports on the end of the tanks as well as both top and bottom of the rad. Use one of these to do the run to the side mounted rad for a cleaner run.
> 3.While you can do a res mount at that position it really makes it hard to work on the build if you ever wand to do something. Placing it next to the motherboard makes for an easier and quite frankly better build layout in my opinion. The pictures attached to this post show a 150mm tall 60mm wide (the reservoir alone) Bitspower DDC res combo and a monsta with push fans in top.
> 
> In the end it's up to you, but I'm starting to get a lot of experience building in this case. Hopefully you figure out a cool layout that suits your tastes.


Ok so updated plan, done what u said about the runs for the monsta rad, i had forgotten about the extra ports.

As for the res, its an aesthetic choice. If I place it next to the MB, i wont see it in the position i have the PC placed. But if i mount it in the rear, i can. 
I understand it will make removing the PCI-E cards a PITA , but if im ever going to remove the GPU, I'd have to drain the loop anyway so ..meh.

Pic below shows the adjusted tube runs and airflow plans, ill be adding a divider under the case (green line) so it don't suck in warm air from the rad, similarly up top. The other green line is just to indicate the internal partition.
The rear fan usually used as exhaust more than likely wont fit with the res there, and even if it could i would want it as intake, and since there be no filter that's not ideal.


----------



## doyll

SolarNova said:


> Ok so updated plan, done what u said about the runs for the monsta rad, i had forgotten about the extra ports.
> 
> As for the res, its an aesthetic choice. If I place it next to the MB, i wont see it in the position i have the PC placed. But if i mount it in the rear, i can.
> I understand it will make removing the PCI-E cards a PITA , but if im ever going to remove the GPU, I'd have to drain the loop anyway so ..meh.
> 
> Pic below shows the adjusted tube runs and airflow plans, ill be adding a divider under the case (green line) so it don't suck in warm air from the rad, similarly up top. The other green line is just to indicate the internal partition.
> The rear fan usually used as exhaust more than likely wont fit with the res there, and even if it could i would want it as intake, and since there be no filter that's not ideal.


You will have problems keeping the heated exhaust air from mixing with cool intake air for top and bottom radiators. It would be better to have all top as intake and all bottom as exhaust or all top exhaust and all bottom intake. 



I've found raising case up so there is a 35-45mm gap between bottom and floor greatly improves airflow to bottom. I usually use an open top castor base. Below is on on Enthoo Primo















Link to more details:
http://phanteks.com/forum/showthread.php?510-Tips-amp-Guides


Just mode size to match your case.


----------



## SolarNova

doyll said:


> You will have problems keeping the heated exhaust air from mixing with cool intake air for top and bottom radiators. It would be better to have all top as intake and all bottom as exhaust or all top exhaust and all bottom intake.
> 
> 
> 
> I've found raising case up so there is a 35-45mm gap between bottom and floor greatly improves airflow to bottom. I usually use an open top castor base. Below is on on Enthoo Primo
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Link to more details:
> http://phanteks.com/forum/showthread.php?510-Tips-amp-Guides
> 
> 
> Just mode size to match your case.


Those pictures are broken links, cant see them.

I have access to a workshop, CnC, drill press, miter saw, scroll saw,bench saw, belt sander, ..hand tools etc.
For the bottom what i can do is create a stand that separates the rear and front of the case so exhaust airflow is directed back.

For the top i did think that It might be a slight problem, cant do much about it there, but I every much prefer to have all the rads exhaust so they are all drawing cool air through them instead of recirculated air.


----------



## doyll

SolarNova said:


> Those pictures are broken links, cant see them.
> 
> I have access to a workshop, CnC, drill press, miter saw, scroll saw,bench saw, belt sander, ..hand tools etc.
> For the bottom what i can do is create a stand that separates the rear and front of the case so exhaust airflow is directed back.
> 
> For the top i did think that It might be a slight problem, cant do much about it there, but I every much prefer to have all the rads exhaust so they are all drawing cool air through them instead of recirculated air.


Sorry about the image links. They are the images in link below image links, so you can see them there. 



My statement stands. Just look at the area of airflow through raidiator and compare that to the area of venting out from under case. 



You cannot put radiators in all vents and not have exhaust radiaors not using air that has been warmed by flowing thorugh radiators functioning as intakes. The best you can do is use air through lowest temp raidiators as intakes to supply air with lowest amount of temp increase to exhaust radiaotrs and make sure the intake radiators are getting plenty of cool air that is not being pre-heated by any exhaust airflow.


----------



## Rainmaker91

SolarNova said:


> Those pictures are broken links, cant see them.
> 
> I have access to a workshop, CnC, drill press, miter saw, scroll saw,bench saw, belt sander, ..hand tools etc.
> For the bottom what i can do is create a stand that separates the rear and front of the case so exhaust airflow is directed back.
> 
> For the top i did think that It might be a slight problem, cant do much about it there, but I every much prefer to have all the rads exhaust so they are all drawing cool air through them instead of recirculated air.


I have to agree with Doyll in regards to air flow there. The current setup will work, but is hardly optimized. 

All intake in bottom and all out in top will give you positive case air flow, while all intake top and out in bottom will give negative pressure given the same fans at the same RPM. What you choose is entirely up to you, but the current flow is far from optimal.

As for case height, I just put some wheels glued and screwed on to the bottom of the case. I just don't like the extra height added with the base, but either or will work fine.


----------



## doyll

Rainmaker91 said:


> I have to agree with Doyll in regards to air flow there. The current setup will work, but is hardly optimized.
> 
> All intake in bottom and all out in top will give you positive case air flow, while all intake top and out in bottom will give negative pressure given the same fans at the same RPM. What you choose is entirely up to you, but the current flow is far from optimal.
> 
> As for case height, I just put some wheels glued and screwed on to the bottom of the case. I just don't like the extra height added with the base, but either or will work fine.


Gluing castors to base is a great idea! 

I like using 6x 30mm twin wheel castors because the raise case enough for good airflow, are still small enough to not turn too far off center (case moving sideways move caster the wheel size farther under case in direction case is moving so bigger castors tend to off-center the case weight and case can become kinda tipsy.  Using 6x 30mm twin-wheel castors still give a large enough floor contact area so castors don't sink too deeply into carpeted floor covering ..


----------



## GnarlyCharlie

GnarlyCharlie said:


> OK, got an Enthoo Pro, a GTX 420 and a GTX 280. Yes, the 420 rad (same one as in the above vid) will fit. As long as you don't try to hang any fans off of it. Even fans one one side will hit the motherboard. That's a thick rad, 54mm I think is the spec.
> 
> Before I get to the next phase, let me say that I really like this case. The way it can be disassembled makes it very mod-able.
> 
> So time to whip out the angle grinder. I mounted the push pull 280 first, and Bill mentions in his vid that the stock mounting points are just a little off to allow the GTX 280 to fit. You can use the stock mounting points, you just have to cut a hole in the floor - I'm mounting the in/out of the rad at the bottom, as this is where I hope to install the drain valve. I also cut a hole in the bottom of the 5.25" drive bay enclosure, but I think I could have left this alone after it was all said and done, just some relief at the bottom seemed to do the trick. But the side panel has a stiffening flange where the 200mm fan comes through, and that sticks out far enough to keep the radiator from fitting side to side so it had to go.
> 
> OK, front rad fitted and looking good. Time for the top rad.
> 
> I could have bought a thinner rad, or a shorter rad, or a narrower rad - any number of possibilities other than go ahead and use the GTX 420. But I wanted the GTX 420 in push pull in this case. I had already purchased the 140mm fans for both rads push pull. And I have a grinder. Right off, first mock up, I can see the top mobo mounting stand offs are WAY too far up behind the radiator with just one set of fans on there. No way it'll ever clear. I temporarily mount the mobo and now it's obvious that nothing is going to clear the VRM heatsink other than maybe just a fan. So I moved the radiator over 30mm towards the side away from the mobo and that's looking good. I had to cut the corner off the plastic in/out shroud thing, and leave one of the corner mounting points off the back fan (my first be quiet! fans, I like that removable mounting point), but it all cleared.
> 
> Well, would have cleared except for that hard drive side panel thing. And that's the kicker, I'm old. Old school. Computers have optical drives, so I'm leaving the 5.25" drive bays in there. Or at least a couple of them. Had to cut the top 5.25" bay out right above the 2nd quick release to let the radiator move over enough. I could have cut the 2nd one out, but there's a screw where the panel mounts to the front that really helps with the integrity of the structure up there and it's just below where I made the cut. The only fatality was no pull fan in the front station, push only there, but putting a fan there would have made it real tight for the bends coming from the radiator clearing the top of the optical drive, anyway (hard tube). Still have 3 push, 2 pull. Moving the rad over 30mm meant that none of the mounting holes (slots, actually) would still be usable, time to drill some new mounting holes.
> 
> That would have been easy enough for the near side, next to the removable side panel, but the other row of screws were out in the middle of the open area where the fans would be. I made some tabs from thin aluminum to mount those screws to, of course now half the fan was under solid metal on the near side - time to whip out the grinder again and open up some area over where the fans are now.
> 
> Stuffing it will be like one of those slide puzzles. There will be no way to get to the 8 pin mobo power headers, have to plug those in before I mount the top rad. And there are some fan headers up there, too. I'll just put extensions on all of them and use the ones I need.
> 
> But when it's finished, it will be a very nicely packed Enthoo Pro with some good radiator area & push/pull fans (mostly). And an optical drive.
> 
> I'll try to get some pics of it in various stages of re-assembly, it's not as gruesome as it sounds.


Went ahead and allowed for all three pull fans on the 420, just one 5.25" bay left. I'm glad I did, looks better. Full push pull 420 and 280 now, PSU shroud still in there, too.


----------



## =GzR=SmokeyDevil

Running this as my current setup. 
Split loops for the cpu and gpu with the cpu 360mm radiator on the top and the 240mm on the side. 
Lots of positive air pressure from the front intake fans helps keep plenty of air flowing. 
I'm still considering rebuilding the loops to mount dual reservoirs closer towards the front of the case.


----------



## ilmazzo

Hi guys

this gpu vertical kits

http://www.phanteks.com/PH-VGPUKT.html

will be ok with my enthoo pro m, right? because the compatibility list is quite a joke honestly ("7+ open PCI slots")

It is time to put my nitro fury vertically since it is bending on the right side and it makes bleed my eyes everytime, and in the future the v64 wc will look much better!

cheers


----------



## OneFunGenesis

I can take a look at my Pro M tonight if someone hasn't already answered this for you by now. You can also buy a GPU brace or make one out of PVC like I did. I have a dual card brace holding up my 1080's in SLI


----------



## ilmazzo

OneFunGenesis said:


> I can take a look at my Pro M tonight if someone hasn't already answered this for you by now. You can also buy a GPU brace or make one out of PVC like I did. I have a dual card brace holding up my 1080's in SLI


thanks

the enthoo is clearly a 7+ open pci slot case but.....why stay so generic? someone became doubtful if the manufacturer does not reference his own products for his own accessories....

anyway, the bend of the card can be easily removed as you stated but I like the vertical gpu design, especially if the card has a block on it as I would like to do in the future...yep, I'm getting old and sophisticated lol


----------



## OneFunGenesis

Nice. I have dual 1080's that are both watercooled. It is very nice haha


----------



## OneFunGenesis

Sorry, my night got crazy. I will check tonight for sure though


----------



## AndyUK

Hi guys, could you please answer my question: I already have 2x alphacool ut60 (60mm thick - 420 and 360), can I use both of them in Enthoo Prime SE (if possible in Push/Pull)?

EDIT:
For top - RADIATOR CLEARANCE is 75mm so 60mm radiator won't fit for push*! Only for pull config - orange.
*push fresh air from top to case turquoise - nonsense?


----------



## downlinx

Just received The phanteks P350x at lunch and can't wait to move my computer out the old tired Lancool Pc-k62 red and breathe new life into the computer. Thanks everyone for the recommendations.


----------



## ejb222

I started looking into water cooling complete kits for a new build in the Evolv X. I really wanted the xspc raystorm ax280 combo with the photon d5 res/pump. But it appears the ax280 is too wide for both top and front mount in this case. Anyone get a 150mm wide rad in this case? I know the manual says it wont fit, but sometimes the manuals are a little conservative


----------



## DyndaS

Is there any owner of P600S?

I wonder about the space for 360 rad. How much is it in fact. Could someone measure it?

Will the space limited by motherboard or ram only? Im not sure about offset there

1) How much space to the edge of motherboard?
2) How much space to the ram?


Probably some photos like one from the inside with measure tape and one directly from the top of the case would be perfect 

I know phanteks say its 65mm* with fans, but I wonder if it is possible to fit 60mm rad and how it gonna look. Just most of cases these days just offer very limited space above motherboard.


Edit.

Ok nevermind i found this, but still I would like to see some radiators in this case 


MAX. RADIATOR CLEARANCE
140mm Radiators: A:405mm B:146mm C:65mm
120mm Radiators: A:405mm B:126mm C:65mm*

*If the motherboard and its components (e.g. memory) are 50mm or
lower there is no limit in Radiator thickness.


----------



## nyk20z3

Why is it taking so long to release the Luxe 2?


----------



## Scramjet

Hi All,
Started to read this thread about a week ago whenever I get a chance and only up to page 425 yet lol. Very interesting to see how people are building their Phanteks cases. 
I have had the Phanteks Enthoo Pro Full Tower for roughly 2 months now and noticed a small rattle/vibration and found it to be the drive cage sleds that hold the sata HDD's. I removed one cage because I only have 3 drives so the top one was removed to give more front intake airflow. I have put 2 small strips of cardboard between the drive and sled to tighten each of the drive sleds because they jiggle in the cage . This has stopped the noise. 
I have a question about the Enthoo Pro Full Tower; Has anyone else noticed the sleds are loose in the cages? If so what did you do to rectify the problem other than what I done?
I love the Phanteks Enthoo Pro full tower and would not part with it. Best case I ever had 

cheers


----------



## Melcar

Scramjet said:


> Hi All,
> Started to read this thread about a week ago whenever I get a chance and only up to page 425 yet lol. Very interesting to see how people are building their Phanteks cases.
> I have had the Phanteks Enthoo Pro Full Tower for roughly 2 months now and noticed a small rattle/vibration and found it to be the drive cage sleds that hold the sata HDD's. I removed one cage because I only have 3 drives so the top one was removed to give more front intake airflow. I have put 2 small strips of cardboard between the drive and sled to tighten each of the drive sleds because they jiggle in the cage . This has stopped the noise.
> I have a question about the Enthoo Pro Full Tower; Has anyone else noticed the sleds are loose in the cages? If so what did you do to rectify the problem other than what I done?
> I love the Phanteks Enthoo Pro full tower and would not part with it. Best case I ever had
> 
> cheers



No such vibration on mine. Tried with 3.5" HDDs and smaller SSDs. But the drive cage assembly and sleds do feel rather flimsy (as you pointed out the drives wiggle). Probably my biggest issue with the case.


----------



## Scramjet

Melcar said:


> No such vibration on mine. Tried with 3.5" HDDs and smaller SSDs. But the drive cage assembly and sleds do feel rather flimsy (as you pointed out the drives wiggle). Probably my biggest issue with the case.


Thanks for the reply. I done some searching on google and found a utube where a guy put elastic bands around the drive sleds and placed them back in the cages. A tighter fit and seemed to have done the job. I shall see if I can find some 1/4 inch wide bands to do mine.

cheers


----------



## ciarlatano

Scramjet said:


> Thanks for the reply. I done some searching on google and found a utube where a guy put elastic bands around the drive sleds and placed them back in the cages. A tighter fit and seemed to have done the job. I shall see if I can find some 1/4 inch wide bands to do mine.
> 
> cheers


I used a piece of foam between the sleds on my Luxe and Evolv. Both had the issue, but the foam adding pressure took care of it.


----------



## Scramjet

ciarlatano said:


> I used a piece of foam between the sleds on my Luxe and Evolv. Both had the issue, but the foam adding pressure took care of it.


Thanks, I have a small sheet of thin soft filter foam that I used to filter the front sides and bottom grill on the Pro Full case. I am talking about the openings around the front filter that is sucking in unfiltered air. I does not change my temperature of the case any yet, so I will have to wait and see if any dust collects there to make a difference. Maybe that is thin enough to slide in the sled.

thanks


----------



## doyll

Scramjet said:


> Hi All,
> Started to read this thread about a week ago whenever I get a chance and only up to page 425 yet lol. Very interesting to see how people are building their Phanteks cases.
> I have had the Phanteks Enthoo Pro Full Tower for roughly 2 months now and noticed a small rattle/vibration and found it to be the drive cage sleds that hold the sata HDD's. I removed one cage because I only have 3 drives so the top one was removed to give more front intake airflow. I have put 2 small strips of cardboard between the drive and sled to tighten each of the drive sleds because they jiggle in the cage . This has stopped the noise.
> I have a question about the Enthoo Pro Full Tower; Has anyone else noticed the sleds are loose in the cages? If so what did you do to rectify the problem other than what I done?
> I love the Phanteks Enthoo Pro full tower and would not part with it. Best case I ever had
> 
> cheers


We have lots of members contributing so end up with all kinds of info. I just wish there was a good search feature so we could find specific info easier. 




Scramjet said:


> Thanks for the reply. I done some searching on google and found a utube where a guy put elastic bands around the drive sleds and placed them back in the cages. A tighter fit and seemed to have done the job. I shall see if I can find some 1/4 inch wide bands to do mine.
> 
> cheers


Elastic bands, foam, etc .. it's all about getting just enough tension so vibration is obsorbed instead of transmitted into HDD cage and on into case.


----------



## Scramjet

The foam I have is too thick (bummer), but I just thought of another solution, maybe to measure the distance between the sled clips that are sticking out and put something there to spread them apart enough to press against each side of the cage. Gonna try that hehehe.
Thanks for reply Doyll


----------



## TheAbyss

Not having any hdds in the Primo, I cannot comment on the drivecages, but I do have some clicking noise when the Radiators heat up during load (had the same in the Luxe previously). Anyone has experienced the same? That´s the downside of a silent custom Loop with more than enough rad Surface i guess?


----------



## bajer29

I could be wrong, but those clicking noises are probably due to thermal expansion. Is that not normal for liquid cooling setups?


----------



## GnarlyCharlie

My Enthoo Pro is packed full of more radiators than it was designed for, drive cages removed, and no clicking in it. I don't recall ever hearing one of my water cooled rigs clicking. Makes me wonder if the clicking is air expanding as it heats up.


----------



## TheAbyss

GnarlyCharlie said:


> My Enthoo Pro is packed full of more radiators than it was designed for, drive cages removed, and no clicking in it. I don't recall ever hearing one of my water cooled rigs clicking. Makes me wonder if the clicking is air expanding as it heats up.


..you may have a Point there, but flowrates are very good, but it still may be air. Will drain the Loop next month, and Change Routing, so I´ll pay more Attention to air when i refill it.


----------



## AndyUK

Did anyone hear creaking sound when open the front door (Enthoo Primo SE)? It is normal?


----------



## Scramjet

Hi All,
I am finally ready to place my order today for two of these fans https://www.newegg.ca/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835709048 (If link don't work they are...Phanteks PH-F140MP 140mm PWM High Static Pressure Radiator Fan) to place in the front(intake) of my Phanteks Enthoo Pro Full. I will then move the 200mm fan to top for exhaust. Even though I have seen some post that this would be good positions for the case fans in this particular case, I have not seen any posts of difference in temps after installation of this setup. My CPU (Intel i7-7700k overclocked to 4.7) temps right now at normal use is 29-31C and while ingame 45-50C. GPU (GIGABYTE GeForce GTX 1060 G1 Gaming 6GB) is 49-51 steady ingame or normal. Rarely do the GPU fans start, so it must be good.
Question is; Am I just wasting money on these 2 fans because chances are I may not get lower temps after installing the fans this way?
Just wanted to know if anybody here have experienced difference in temps with this fan setup.
The reason I am going with this fan setup is because it would be exactly like my older Antec 900 tower. There wasn't much space in the Antec 900 for my new build plus I had to modify the plexiglass side to allow for the protruding fan on the Noctua NH-D15 SSO2 CPU Cooler which was over my high profile ram. Didn't look all that good but temps were good.
Greatly appreciate any feedback

Edit: Correction my GPU spikes to 56C on game startup and fans kick in and then goes back to 51C. Sorry about that typo, I just noticed it.

cheers


----------



## Melcar

Those fans are really good and will be better than the stock 200mm fan. However, if you are happy with your current temperatures I see no reason to change fans. Forget about top fans as they would be nearly useless. Just more noise.


----------



## Scramjet

Melcar said:


> Those fans are really good and will be better than the stock 200mm fan. However, if you are happy with your current temperatures I see no reason to change fans. Forget about top fans as they would be nearly useless. Just more noise.


Thanks for the reply
Greatly appreciate it.


----------



## Scramjet

Ok so I broke down and ordered the fans lol (.Phanteks PH-F140MP 140mm PWM High Static Pressure Radiator Fan). Est. delivery is May 10, 2019. When I get them installed I shall post back here what my temps are to let others know if they made a difference to my system. 
I am up to page 458 of this thread so far. Still a long ways to go but is a interesting read for sure. Making notes of posts that pertain to the Pro and air cooling 

cheers


----------



## TheAbyss

Melcar said:


> Those fans are really good and will be better than the stock 200mm fan. However, if you are happy with your current temperatures I see no reason to change fans. Forget about top fans as they would be nearly useless. Just more noise.


I agree, the Phanteks fans are good, but your temps are really ok.. is your CPU delidded? Aircooled?


----------



## Scramjet

TheAbyss said:


> I agree, the Phanteks fans are good, but your temps are really ok.. is your CPU delidded? Aircooled?


Even though my temps are a lot lower than other owner builds, I researched the Phanteks fans for quite a while and my wife told me to get the dang things lol.
No my CPU is not delidded, although I read a lot about that also but afraid to take the plunge for fear I may ruin my CPU then I would be in big trouble lol
Yes I am running aircooled with the Noctua NH-D15 SSO2 CPU Cooler.
Thanks for the reply


----------



## TheAbyss

Scramjet said:


> Even though my temps are a lot lower than other owner builds, I researched the Phanteks fans for quite a while and my wife told me to get the dang things lol.
> No my CPU is not delidded, although I read a lot about that also but afraid to take the plunge for fear I may ruin my CPU then I would be in big trouble lol
> Yes I am running aircooled with the Noctua NH-D15 SSO2 CPU Cooler.
> Thanks for the reply


Ok, once even my whife tells me to get something that I have been looking at a lot, that´s the Point were disobedience is not an Option anymore


----------



## JustinThyme

TheAbyss said:


> Ok, once even my whife tells me to get something that I have been looking at a lot, that´s the Point were disobedience is not an Option anymore


If the wifey told me to get something Ive been looking at a lot a PC case wouldnt even make the perspective list of maybes......


----------



## Alias

Any feedback on the P600s from buyers here? 

Currently have the Evolv ATX TG but was eyeing the P600s since it seems like an upgrade from a cooling perspective.


----------



## doyll

Alias said:


> Any feedback on the P600s from buyers here?
> 
> Currently have the Evolv ATX TG but was eyeing the P600s since it seems like an upgrade from a cooling perspective.


P600S is quite nice. It's based on the Evolv X chassis which has better airflow than original Evolv does. That said, with 2x good pressure rated front intakes will move a good amount of airflow. How well it cools depends on how much airflow is needed to supply CPU and GPU coolers .. as in what size and how many fans are on coolers. I using both Evolv ATX and Evolv X ATX and have no cooling / airflow problems with either one. Evolv case fans spin about 20-30% faster to supply needed case airflow so at full load it's a little louder .. it makes enough noise that I know it's working hard when it is.  Evolv X is almost inaudible even at full load. I suspect P600S with front vent open would be similar to Evolv X.


----------



## hurricane28

I have phanteks enthoo luxe tempered glass but one of the notches to hold the dust filter down on the top of the case is broken en no longer holds the dust filter in place. 

I would like to know if i can get an replacement part. Thnx.


----------



## doyll

hurricane28 said:


> I have phanteks enthoo luxe tempered glass but one of the notches to hold the dust filter down on the top of the case is broken en no longer holds the dust filter in place.
> 
> I would like to know if i can get an replacement part. Thnx.



You need to contact customer support about your broken latch.


----------



## hurricane28

doyll said:


> You need to contact customer support about your broken latch.


Ye, i figured. I send them an email about the latch. Now i know what its called lol.


----------



## Scramjet

Hi All, Enthroo Pro Full Windowed case

I finally got back home after travelling most of last year and up until April 12th this year. Reading a lot of this thread it seemed replacing the 200mm with two 140mm fans is a good choice so I ordered (2) Phanteks PH-F140MP 140mm PWM High Static Pressure Radiator Fan for the front of my Enthroo Pro Full. I decided to put the 200mm fan on top for exhaust. I had a heck of a time installing the 200mm there because I didn't want to remove the motherboard lol. Finally managed to tighten the back screws so all good 
I have the ASUS Z270 TUF Mark 1 MB and using the Xpert 4 software to control the fans. The software picked up all the fans and tuned them great. Without any tweaking my system seemed to have dropped CPU temp from 30-32C normal use to 27-30C and while playing Rift it stayed from 45-48. With the 200mm in front of case I was getting 54-59 ingame. 
BTW, my system is air cooled with the Noctua NH-D15 SSO2 D-Type Premium CPU Cooler, NF-A15 x 2 PWM Fans. I think it does a awesome job.
Hoping to follow up with a few pics of my system. I am very happy with the Phanteks Enthroo Pro Full Windowed Case. I plan to have it for a long time.
Thanks for allowing me to share my air cooled setup with you all.
Cheers

Edit: I added 4 pics but for some reason the first 2 displayed sideways when I dragged them to attach (weird) ...sorry about that. The window side pics show how the large Noctua Cooler actually is and fits with room to spare inside this case.(Maybe look into changing those cooler fans later). Pic 03 shows fan speeds and CPU temp while playing Rift. After tweaking the fans a bit I can now play Rift with CPU 37-40 C ...sweet. Happy camper here!


----------



## TeslaHUN

I bought a P600S . This was my most easy build so far ,i love the side magnetic doors . The sound dampening is amazing too.


----------



## doyll

Nice build! 

Yeah, Phanteks does a good job of designing and building cases.


----------



## AlphaC

Since it hasn't been posted yet

Phanteks P600S thermal results over on comptoir hardware http://www.comptoir-hardware.com/actus/boitiers-alimentations/38848-test-phanteks-eclipse-p600s.html?start=3

seems relatively the same result as hardware info https://nl.hardware.info/reviews/90...ew-het-nieuwe-flexibel-testresultaten-koeling


----------



## KCDC

TeslaHUN said:


> I bought a P600S . This was my most easy build so far ,i love the side magnetic doors . The sound dampening is amazing too.
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yrijXuUV6m4&feature=youtu.be



Just built a rig for a friend with this case, great build quality, dead silent with a giant noctua cooler and all fans going. If I build another, it will be this case again.


----------



## saltedham

so has the p600s been hard to clean for those with it?


----------



## SightUp

I was a proud owner of an Pro M case. I wanted to remove the glass panel and replace it with a metal one so LED's are no longer a thing. However, they want 20 dollars for the side panel, fine, that's fair and am willing to pay it, but then they want 20 dollars for shipping, too. At 40 dollars, I might as well purchase a new case, the Mephify S for example, for 30 dollars more. I have bought multiple replacement parts, fans, other panels, etc. in the past but they need to get with the times. The two other case companies I emailed about cost of replacement parts do not charge shipping. I am done with Phantek's stupid shipping cost.


----------



## Phanteks_Care

*Enthoo Luxe2*

Enthoo Luxe2

https://www.instagram.com/p/Bx-cvsPFu4r/


----------



## doyll

SightUp said:


> I was a proud owner of an Pro M case. I wanted to remove the glass panel and replace it with a metal one so LED's are no longer a thing. However, they want 20 dollars for the side panel, fine, that's fair and am willing to pay it, but then they want 20 dollars for shipping, too. At 40 dollars, I might as well purchase a new case, the Mephify S for example, for 30 dollars more. I have bought multiple replacement parts, fans, other panels, etc. in the past but they need to get with the times. The two other case companies I emailed about cost of replacement parts do not charge shipping. I am done with Phantek's stupid shipping cost.


 I feel your pain, but if you change to case like Meshify S you will also need new case fans because it's stock case fans are worthless .. and that adds another $30-40 to cost of new case. 



Have you conidered painting the glass panel or putting black vinyl on it?


----------



## bajer29

Oooooooh vinyl, I like that idea. So many options, colors, patterns you can choose from hmmm


----------



## AlphaC

Seems they retooled their front panel for the Eclipse low end models:




 P400A has fully meshed front panel and the P360X has a hole on the front side
https://twitter.com/Phanteks/status/1133252843962552320


----------



## R99photography

The new Enthoo Luxe 2 looks very good, despite the darkness of that room (how could an user have any idea of the internal space if the light is almost non-existent?).
Anyway, very disappointed it has not at least one 5,25” bay for my aquaero.
If confirmed, I must admit is not an ideal solution for my next case.





Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## mAs81

That P400A looks really good ... it seems like a Meshify killer indeed (like Bitwit said) lol


----------



## Gilles3000

R99photography said:


> The new Enthoo Luxe 2 looks very good, despite the darkness of that room (how could an user have any idea of the internal space if the light is almost non-existent?).
> Anyway, very disappointed it has not at least one 5,25” bay for my aquaero.
> If confirmed, I must admit is not an ideal solution for my next case.


5.25" Bays are simply being phased out as hardly anyone is using them anymore. But I've seen people mount their aquaero elsewhere, like behind the glass sidepanel.


----------



## doyll

I'm not sure if I like the new Luxe 2 or not. Almost too many vertical lines on front for me. Computex 2019 doesn't seem to be as good as pervious years. Not seeing new releases like we have previous years.


----------



## shilka

Someone on TPU said there is an addon with 5,25 bays you can add to the Elite and he said it might fit the Luxe 2 as well
Phanteks has a picture of it on their Elite page

Not sure but it looks like the drives would be pointing sidewards in the case when mounted that way?
A bit of a pain in the butt if you have to open the glass side panel every time you wanted to use the 5,25 bays but its better than not having them at all i suppose

I too need to have a 5,25 bay in my case for my Blu-Ray drive and i dont want to have an external drive its twice the price of an internal drive
I did not buy the Evolv X for that reason and bought the TG version of the Luxe instead

My next build was going to have another TG Luxe for that reason but if there is a way to get that 5,25 addon in the Luxe 2 i might go with the Luxe 2


----------



## maltamonk

mAs81 said:


> That P400A looks really good ... it seems like a Meshify killer indeed (like Bitwit said) lol


I just want them to sell that front panel given we can put it on our p400/s cases.


----------



## ciarlatano

maltamonk said:


> I just want them to sell that front panel given we can put it on our p400/s cases.


Phanteks does sell panels individually through their customer support.


----------



## maltamonk

ciarlatano said:


> Phanteks does sell panels individually through their customer support.


Fantastic. I'll be getting one given they are compatible.


----------



## SightUp

doyll said:


> I feel your pain, but if you change to case like Meshify S you will also need new case fans because it's stock case fans are worthless .. and that adds another $30-40 to cost of new case.
> 
> 
> 
> Have you conidered painting the glass panel or putting black vinyl on it?


The stock fans might be good, but they are crap compared to what I put in there. I put all Noctua fans in there.

Sadly, the Meshify doesn't allow for a triple rad setup on top.

I am still searching for a suitable replacement.


----------



## ciarlatano

SightUp said:


> The stock fans might be good, but they are crap compared to what I put in there. I put all Noctua fans in there.
> 
> Sadly, the Meshify doesn't allow for a triple rad setup on top.
> 
> I am still searching for a suitable replacement.


He said the stock fans in the Meshify are lousy and need to be changed.


----------



## dynastes

Sadly they did not make any other adjustments to P400A. I would have liked to see a different glas mount and USB-C for example. Oh, well ...

Do you think the new front will serve as a proper dustfilter?


----------



## AlphaC

mAs81 said:


> That P400A looks really good ... it seems like a Meshify killer indeed (like Bitwit said) lol


 It supposedly 70 Euros and as far as I know the fans are their Metallicgear ones.


Meshify C supports taller coolers, the existing P400 has 160mm clearance and so does the P350X.


----------



## springs113

shilka said:


> Someone on TPU said there is an addon with 5,25 bays you can add to the Elite and he said it might fit the Luxe 2 as well
> Phanteks has a picture of it on their Elite page
> 
> Not sure but it looks like the drives would be pointing sidewards in the case when mounted that way?
> A bit of a pain in the butt if you have to open the glass side panel every time you wanted to use the 5,25 bays but its better than not having them at all i suppose
> 
> I too need to have a 5,25 bay in my case for my Blu-Ray drive and i dont want to have an external drive its twice the price of an internal drive
> I did not buy the Evolv X for that reason and bought the TG version of the Luxe instead
> 
> My next build was going to have another TG Luxe for that reason but if there is a way to get that 5,25 addon in the Luxe 2 i might go with the Luxe 2


Yes that's exactly how it would fit in the luxe 2, I'm not sure of the positioning/placement but it definitely will work. I'm torn between the luxe 2(looks like my Elite) and the rog 011 xl.


----------



## kevindd992002

I'm looking at the Shift for my sister's ITX build. Is it worth waiting for the Shift Air instead? Since it was just announced at Computex, how long will it take for it to be released?

Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk


----------



## JustinThyme

springs113 said:


> Yes that's exactly how it would fit in the luxe 2, I'm not sure of the positioning/placement but it definitely will work. I'm torn between the luxe 2(looks like my Elite) and the rog 011 xl.


Cant speak or the luxe II but the kit that comes with the Elite is sideways, no other way to mount it. That being said all the hardware is meant to be supported for such a mount so it would have to be that way in any case which it would easily fit without modding.


----------



## Turgin

Thinking of getting an Evolv X for my new build and have a question about front radiator width restrictions. I have a HL Nemesis 280GTX I'd like to put in the front. I found a chart from the manual that says the clearance is 148mm for the width and the 280GTX is 153mm wide. 5mm!?! Can anyone with the case tell me if that 148mm is a hard limitation or do you think I can get my radiator in there without having to trim something?

This is what I get for deciding I want a new case mid build after already having bought all the parts.


----------



## asdkj1740

p418x unbox....posted on 18-5....

https://www.bilibili.com/video/av52753521


official marketing materials down below 
https://item.jd.com/100003228597.html



full size front dust filter holy ssssssssssssssssssssssssssss
still got one fan included this time but being proper installed at the back out of the box now
the price is sightly lower than p350x



much more agreesive on top fan/rad mounting offset, which is amazing.
the case with the most aggressive top mounting offset probably goes to coolermaster mb530p with the compatibility of z390 aorus master + gskill tridentz + 240mm aio on top. the top mesh's magnetic strips intervene with the screws of aio sadly on this case. i hope phanteks wont overlook this part on p418x. fractal desigin meshify c got this desgin correctly !

MB530P
http://home.coolpc.com.tw/fb/CoolerMaster/MB530P/coolpc-MB530P-9.jpg


ps. p350x has 160mm clearance for cpu cooler while p418x has 165mm


----------



## asdkj1740

phanteks should not have marketed p350x as high airflow edition. now phanteks face is snapped once again.

and the front cutouts for 140mm fans now .... phanteks again, so stupid.


----------



## doyll

Your links are helpful, but we need some English / western language reviews so we can understand what is being said. Hopefully we will have some soon.


----------



## asdkj1740

doyll said:


> Your links are helpful, but we need some English / western language reviews so we can understand what is being said. Hopefully we will have some soon.


forgot to ask for a sample from the distributor this time lol. seems it has been out since april~may.
on 18/6, it will have a super price cut in china, we shall see.
it is current priced sighly below than p350x, which is not bad at all. the full metal front panel is back, old eclipse style!

the jd.com maketing materials say all. nothing special being mentioned on that video.


----------



## asdkj1740

https://www.chiphell.com/thread-1994888-1-1.html
this has much higher quality pics


----------



## bigboy678

kevindd992002 said:


> I'm looking at the Shift for my sister's ITX build. Is it worth waiting for the Shift Air instead? Since it was just announced at Computex, how long will it take for it to be released?
> 
> Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk



Not sure when its coming out but if you want you can buy the shift now and just get the new shift air panel for it when it releases. 

"The Evolv Shift Air implements Phanteks' innovative fabric mesh to its design. The new material allows the Shift Air to blend subtly into its surroundings and brings a direct airflow path to the CPU and GPU (air-cooled). The new Shift Air comes at a lower price than the original Shift, and the new panels will be available to purchase for current Shift owners."

https://www.techpowerup.com/256090/...se-p360x-and-p400a-evolv-shift-air-pc-chassis


----------



## rul3s

Hello guys!
I've never had any phanteks product until 2 months ago, since them, I'm completly in love with them.
I was near to leave my search of my perfect case and then I've meet the Phanteks Enthoo Pro M SE, which was:

- Big enought but not too wide.
- Excellent airflow (frontside mesh is not usual nowadays)
- Good quality
- 14cm fans
- Pretty

Now, the pics


----------



## asdkj1740

p418x~=p360x
p418x is a china specific model that has no argb on the front. it is said that this model wont not be avaliable globally.

some feedbacks reported by users of p418x on jd.com saying because the top ventilation of p418x is not long enough, mobo thats has i/o cover may block the compatibility of aio radiator being installed to the top of p418x.

what a wasted when phanteks has redesigined the top panel but still...


so p418x has higher compatibility for 240mm radiator being installed to the top side of the case than p350x due to much more agreesive mounting strips on the top, but it is given that the mobo chosen has no i/o cover or has not large enough i/o cover. 
for fitting 240mm radiator installed to the top, manually remove the i/o cover maybe needed.


----------



## asdkj1740

p350x true real proper high airflow edition is eventually out, even stronger than p360x/p418x, on metallicgear lineup
mesh front, 2 fans included
but no separate front dust filter, and no top mesh filter...
https://item.jd.com/100003743757.html
https://item.jd.com/100006301450.html

metallicgear's p418x....again, but this time comes with full size separate front dust filter
terrible size for intake of front panel
https://item.jd.com/100003743755.html
https://item.jd.com/100006301448.html


----------



## AlphaC

Top panel seems restrictive and used lancing to get that louver pattern (they didn't remove the excess metal).


The amount of panels produced per day is probably higher because they don't need to discard the removed metal. They can even use a press to do it.



Well at least CPU cooler clearance is 165mm now.


----------



## madno

*Phanteks Evolve X questions*

Good day everyone.

I am quite new (with respect to activity) to overclock.net but follow the discussions for some time now.

As I am planning to replace my old workstation I am searching for a new case.

*The Phanteks Evolve X catched my attention.*

*Questions:*

*A: *
Can it fit three GPUs?
- 2 x RTX 2018 Ti Founder (with full block watercooling - no fans)
- 1 x RTX Quadro 4000 (single slot card)

In the images I have seen, it looks like a third GPU would sit directly on top of the PSU cover if it fits at all.


*B:*
Is it possible to dismantle the frame parts? According to the images it looks it is assembled with screws.

Thanks for your input.

Please let me know if this is the wrong forum for the questions.


----------



## Barefooter

Hello Phanteks case owners,

I'm looking at the Phanteks Eclipse P600S case. I already have a 420mm rad, a 280mm rad, and a bunch of 140mm fans. It looks like I can put the 420 in front and the 280 on top. Does anyone here have a build picture with that configuration they could post here?

I just want to see how it will work out, and are there any clearance issues or thickness/width limitations!

Thanks,
Barefooter


----------



## LazarusIV

Barefooter said:


> Hello Phanteks case owners,
> 
> I'm looking at the Phanteks Eclipse P600S case. I already have a 420mm rad, a 280mm rad, and a bunch of 140mm fans. It looks like I can put the 420 in front and the 280 on top. Does anyone here have a build picture with that configuration they could post here?
> 
> I just want to see how it will work out, and are there any clearance issues or thickness/width limitations!
> 
> Thanks,
> Barefooter


Hello! Just built in this case, need to update my sig.

I'm considering putting a 420mm rad up front and there is a width limitation. I'd suggest going to the Phanteks website and grabbing the case's manual. It's actually a fantastic manual with a lot of good info in it.

That said, the width limitation is pretty thin. I think realistically the only 420mm rads you can get in the front are the HWLabs Black Ice Nemesis L-series radiators since they're much thinner than the GTS, GTX, and GTR mainstream rads. I plan on using the GTX-equivalent rad for the front of my case.

But seriously, check out the manual it's really good. And this case is fantastic, Phanteks makes good stuff!


----------



## Barefooter

LazarusIV said:


> Hello! Just built in this case, need to update my sig.
> 
> I'm considering putting a 420mm rad up front and there is a width limitation. I'd suggest going to the Phanteks website and grabbing the case's manual. It's actually a fantastic manual with a lot of good info in it.
> 
> That said, the width limitation is pretty thin. I think realistically the only 420mm rads you can get in the front are the HWLabs Black Ice Nemesis L-series radiators since they're much thinner than the GTS, GTX, and GTR mainstream rads. I plan on using the GTX-equivalent rad for the front of my case.
> 
> But seriously, check out the manual it's really good. And this case is fantastic, Phanteks makes good stuff!


Crap did not think about actually reading the manual :doh:

You are correct though the manual is pretty good. Looks like my EK CE 420 will just fit in the front. The EK CE 280 will fit in the top except for thickness. It shows there is 65mm of clearance, but the rad is 45mm so with fans it might not work, so if I can't make if work I think I'll just stick with the 420 in front as it's going to be a CPU only loop if I decide to go with this case.

Anyway Rep to you for pointing me to the manual, and would like to see a picture of two of your build.

.


----------



## LazarusIV

Barefooter said:


> Crap did not think about actually reading the manual :doh:
> 
> You are correct though the manual is pretty good. Looks like my EK CE 420 will just fit in the front. The EK CE 280 will fit in the top except for thickness. It shows there is 65mm of clearance, but the rad is 45mm so with fans it might not work, so if I can't make if work I think I'll just stick with the 420 in front as it's going to be a CPU only loop if I decide to go with this case.
> 
> Anyway Rep to you for pointing me to the manual, and would like to see a picture of two of your build.


Hahaha, no worries. These days the manuals are usually terrible but Phanteks seems to go above and beyond. I've been seriously impressed, coming from Fractal Design as my go-to.

I think with CPU only, a 420mm up front is perfect, that's what I was planning on doing myself. There's no waterblock for my Red Devil Vega 64 so I'm stuck in that regard... seriously looking at that 5700XT though.

I'll put up some pictures when I get a chance!


----------



## shilka

Added a single CableMod 30 cm red LED light strip to the bottom of my Luxe TG to give a little bit more light
Not sure if it would looks better if i move it to the top instead?

And yes i know my case is a bit dirty but i bought a Seasonic Prime Ultra Titanium 750 watt to replace my old EVGA G2 750 watt so its easier to clean it when its been taken apart anway

Edit: i am waiting for the CableMod cables i ordered for the new PSU and since i have so many devices that need SATA power i have orderd x4 quad SATA power cables and x8 SATA data cables in four different colors which might look worse from an aesthetic point of view but will make my life a lot easier when i need to add or remove drives from the build


----------



## doyll

LazarusIV said:


> Hahaha, no worries. These days the manuals are usually terrible but Phanteks seems to go above and beyond. I've been seriously impressed, coming from Fractal Design as my go-to.
> 
> I think with CPU only, a 420mm up front is perfect, that's what I was planning on doing myself. There's no waterblock for my Red Devil Vega 64 so I'm stuck in that regard... seriously looking at that 5700XT though.
> 
> I'll put up some pictures when I get a chance!


 Good to see you are still here! :thumb: 



I also noticed a significant improvement from Fractal Design to Phanteks.




shilka said:


> Added a single CableMod 30 cm red LED light strip to the bottom of my Luxe TG to give a little bit more light
> Not sure if it would looks better if i move it to the top instead?
> 
> And yes i know my case is a bit dirty but i bought a Seasonic Prime Ultra Titanium 750 watt to replace my old EVGA G2 750 watt so its easier to clean it when its been taken apart anway
> 
> Edit: i am waiting for the CableMod cables i ordered for the new PSU and since i have so many devices that need SATA power i have orderd x4 quad SATA power cables and x8 SATA data cables in four different colors which might look worse from an aesthetic point of view but will make my life a lot easier when i need to add or remove drives from the build


Maybe a light strip both top and bottom? I don't go in for LED lighting much, so not a good one to be making suggestions. 



I agree, using different color SATA cables or at least labeling tape. It can be purchased in sheets or rolls. I have 3M number roll one, but there are others. Can print them on paper and put them on cables with glue stick too.


----------



## shilka

doyll said:


> Maybe a light strip both top and bottom? I don't go in for LED lighting much, so not a good one to be making suggestions.
> 
> 
> I agree, using different color SATA cables or at least labeling tape. It can be purchased in sheets or rolls. I have 3M number roll one, but there are others. Can print them on paper and put them on cables with glue stick too.


I think more than one strip is too much if you recall i had 3 60 cm LED strips i my old Luxe and they went all the way around the case and it looked like a you know what shop from a red light district 
As for the SATA cables i am going to label them with a label machine i have which has not been used in 10 years so bought a new tape roll for it 

I could have bought 10 different color SATA cables but that would look hideous so i bought 8 in 4 colors which where gold / silver / black and orange besides those i have at least 6 older ones in red but those are old and worn so maybe i will throw some of them out i already had to throw one out as it had could not lock so every time the machine was bumped the cable would fall out

Edit: its a massive pain in the butt to try and move the LED strip to the top of the case when the case is standing up so i am going to take a look at it when i replace the PSU and have the case laying down

Here the old Luxe just to compared with the 3 LED stips
Another leason i learned was not buying an LED strip that sticks with glue i bought a magnetic LED trip this time around


----------



## LazarusIV

doyll said:


> Good to see you are still here! :thumb:
> 
> 
> 
> I also noticed a significant improvement from Fractal Design to Phanteks.


Hey doyll! I am still here, just a bit less active. Family, work, etc 

Yeah, I splurged on this case after seeing it demo'd at Computex this year... I was about to jump ship to mITX but decided to stick with Mid-Towers. Plus, I may dive back into custom water... we'll see. I have an idea for a simple loop and this case fits that bill perfectly!

I still love FD cases, but Phanteks is such good quality I've been quite impressed!


----------



## ciarlatano

shilka said:


> I think more than one strip is too much if you recall i had 3 60 cm LED strips i my old Luxe and they went all the way around the case and it looked like a you know what shop from a red light district
> As for the SATA cables i am going to label them with a label machine i have which has not been used in 10 years so bought a new tape roll for it
> 
> I could have bought 10 different color SATA cables but that would look hideous so i bought 8 in 4 colors which where gold / silver / black and orange besides those i have at least 6 older ones in red but those are old and worn so maybe i will throw some of them out i already had to throw one out as it had could not lock so every time the machine was bumped the cable would fall out
> 
> Edit: its a massive pain in the butt to try and move the LED strip to the top of the case when the case is standing up so i am going to take a look at it when i replace the PSU and have the case laying down
> 
> Here the old Luxe just to compared with the 3 LED stips
> Another leason i learned was not buying an LED strip that sticks with glue i bought a magnetic LED trip this time around


When I had my Luxe I did front and bottom strips after trying every configuration I could think of. All about personal taste.


----------



## shilka

ciarlatano said:


> When I had my Luxe I did front and bottom strips after trying every configuration I could think of. All about personal taste.


Now thats its gotten dark its a lot easier to see the light and i am glad i only bought a single LED strip as i feel it adds just enough light to look good but without having way too much like i had before
When i replace the PSU i am going to lay the case down on its side and see if having it in the top is better but the SATA power cable might not be long enough

Edit: taking a picture in the dark without it being really blurry or have really bad reflection from the glass is really hard so this is the best i could take


----------



## shilka

Was supposed to have posted here instead of making a new thread in the air cooling section
Anyway what i said in the other thread was there are now x5 HDD´s in the front of the Luxe case so there is not huge amounts of fresh air getting into the main chamber of the case 

So i was thinking what would be better replacing the two Phanteks PH-F140MP fans in the front (think they are MP?) or adding two fans on the other side of the HDD cages or adding a fan or two in the top case so fresh air gets in that way

I cant put fans in the bottom since i am using the PSU cover so all that would do is suck fresh air in under the PSU cover
I was thinking maybe two of the new Noctua NF-A12x25 PWM fans on the HDD cages would help? or are there better fans then those?


----------



## JustinThyme

LazarusIV said:


> Hello! Just built in this case, need to update my sig.
> 
> I'm considering putting a 420mm rad up front and there is a width limitation. I'd suggest going to the Phanteks website and grabbing the case's manual. It's actually a fantastic manual with a lot of good info in it.
> 
> That said, the width limitation is pretty thin. I think realistically the only 420mm rads you can get in the front are the HWLabs Black Ice Nemesis L-series radiators since they're much thinner than the GTS, GTX, and GTR mainstream rads. I plan on using the GTX-equivalent rad for the front of my case.
> 
> But seriously, check out the manual it's really good. And this case is fantastic, Phanteks makes good stuff!


no problems fitting 2x 60mm 480s and a 60mm 360 with 20 fans total.


----------



## Imprezzion

Here's my build in the Evolv X. 

I did mod the top panel for better exhaust and so that it shows the RGB fans better. It's a waterjet cut with some car front bumper mesh and construction glue aka innotec powerbond xs330 

It's a CM360R 360 AIO with push-pull CM MF120R fans. The intake is all MF140R's and the outtake in the back is as well. 

All the RGB is synced by my boards Mystic Light except for the RAM lol, it doesn't support the same effects so it just runs it's default profile.


----------



## shilka

Still looking for help to improve my case airflow so does anyone have any input?
See my last post


----------



## ciarlatano

shilka said:


> Still looking for help to improve my case airflow so does anyone have any input?
> See my last post


What about moving the drives? Would something like this be an option - https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1204067-REG/icy_dock_mb074sp_b_black_vortex_4_bay_3_5.html


----------



## doyll

shilka said:


> Was supposed to have posted here instead of making a new thread in the air cooling section
> Anyway what i said in the other thread was there are now x5 HDD´s in the front of the Luxe case so there is not huge amounts of fresh air getting into the main chamber of the case
> 
> So i was thinking what would be better replacing the two Phanteks PH-F140MP fans in the front (think they are MP?) or adding two fans on the other side of the HDD cages or adding a fan or two in the top case so fresh air gets in that way
> 
> I cant put fans in the bottom since i am using the PSU cover so all that would do is suck fresh air in under the PSU cover
> I was thinking maybe two of the new Noctua NF-A12x25 PWM fans on the HDD cages would help? or are there better fans then those?





shilka said:


> Still looking for help to improve my case airflow so does anyone have any input?
> See my last post


What case fans you have depends on how old your case is. Older ones came with PH-F140SP and newer ones come with same fan with MP impeller. The MP version has better pressure rating so will flow more air against resistance. 

What speeds are case fans running relative to D15S and GTX 1080 fan speeds? What is air temp into CPU and GPU under heavy load? Below are links to what I use to monitor case airflow temps and basic guide to optimizing case airflow.
https://www.overclock.net/forum/246...ing-airflow-cooler-fan-data.html#post22319171
https://www.overclock.net/forum/22319249-post5.html

Using fans on both sides of HDD cage may help, but I think running same/similar fas as front intakes would be better. Removing PSU cover and using bottom intake might help. Maybe put a couple HDDs in bottom to free up airflow from top front intake to D15S. I've done this with velcro tape. Makes a good vibration dampener too, but removing HDD sometimes pulls tape off of HDD or case.


----------



## shilka

ciarlatano said:


> What about moving the drives? Would something like this be an option - https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1204067-REG/icy_dock_mb074sp_b_black_vortex_4_bay_3_5.html


 I only have 2x 5,25 bays free since i am using the last one and i have 5 HDD´s now


doyll said:


> What case fans you have depends on how old your case is. Older ones came with PH-F140SP and newer ones come with same fan with MP impeller. The MP version has better pressure rating so will flow more air against resistance.
> 
> What speeds are case fans running relative to D15S and GTX 1080 fan speeds? What is air temp into CPU and GPU under heavy load? Below are links to what I use to monitor case airflow temps and basic guide to optimizing case airflow.
> https://www.overclock.net/forum/246...ing-airflow-cooler-fan-data.html#post22319171
> https://www.overclock.net/forum/22319249-post5.html
> 
> Using fans on both sides of HDD cage may help, but I think running same/similar fas as front intakes would be better. Removing PSU cover and using bottom intake might help. Maybe put a couple HDDs in bottom to free up airflow from top front intake to D15S.


 Think the fans are MP as for the speed i have them spinning at about 1000 RPM in ilde where the PC is at most of the time and the CPU fans are about 700 RPM
The system/CPU is sitting at about 42c/46c because its summer and freaking hot

The GPU is a little bit hotter at 43-45c and the fans on the GPU spins at about 1300-1350 RPM
BTW i am soon buying an RTX 2070 Super to replace the GTX 1080 and the card i picked runs a bit cooler due to the massive heatsink and cooler 

My PC sits at ilde 95% of the time just playing music and/or video and browsing the web so i have no idea how temps are under load and since i dont have AC i put as little stress on the PC during summer as i can

I dont mind replacing the fans if i can get some better one but from what i understood the MP are pretty good fans already

Edit: found what looks like the same fans as the stock fans on Amazon.de
https://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B016NHRIU8/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A133RA3ZUAU4I7&psc=1

Looks like the HDD cages only have mounts for 120mm fans so would another 140mm MP fan in the top and one in the bottom of the case help or is it waste of money?


----------



## sblantipodi

Joining the club for the next threadripper CPU 👍


----------



## GiorgosSt

*ENTHOO EVOLV X GLASS - CPU AIO & GPU AIO Placement*

Dear friends,
I don't know if my "problem" has been answered in this or in another topic, but I need your help.
I am going to purchase an ENTHOO EVOLV X GLASS case and I am going to place a CPU AIO liquid cooler (NZXT X62 Kraken - with 280mm radiator) and a GPU with AIO liquid cooler (Gigabyte AORUS GeForce RTX™ 2080 Ti XTREME WATERFORCE 11G - with 240mm radiator) but I have no experience in radiator placement. Please, advise me for the best placement of the radiators (f.e. CPU radiator - front and GPU radiator - top). For your information, the tube length of the GPU is 395mm ± 1.5% according to Gigabyte.


----------



## ciarlatano

GiorgosSt said:


> Dear friends,
> I don't know if my "problem" has been answered in this or in another topic, but I need your help.
> I am going to purchase an ENTHOO EVOLV X GLASS case and I am going to place a CPU AIO liquid cooler (NZXT X62 Kraken - with 280mm radiator) and a GPU with AIO liquid cooler (Gigabyte AORUS GeForce RTX™ 2080 Ti XTREME WATERFORCE 11G - with 240mm radiator) but I have no experience in radiator placement. Please, advise me for the best placement of the radiators (f.e. CPU radiator - front and GPU radiator - top). For your information, the tube length of the GPU is 395mm ± 1.5% according to Gigabyte.


The best placement for Asetek rads is "back on the store shelf" or "for sale on eBay so they are someone else's problem".


----------



## shilka

Just spent an hour replacing the old EVGA G2 with the Seasonic Prime Ultra Titanium and all the PSU cables as well as all the SATA cables and i moved my GTX 1080 to the top slot to free up the M.2 slot and i moved the LED strip to the top of the case

Removed the PSU cover and installed a Phanteks 140mm fan in the bottom of case as well as another in the top of the case which should help with airflow
I ordered an MSI RTX 2070 Super Gaming Trio X which i will pick up next week and i ordered another CableMod LED strip which will show up in 2-3 weeks

And yes i know the case is a bit dusty and i did not do a great job with cable management so i will clean up the case and re-do the cables next week when i replace the GPU i am too tired to work on the case tonight


----------



## GiorgosSt

ciarlatano said:


> The best placement for Asetek rads is "back on the store shelf" or "for sale on eBay so they are someone else's problem".


OK then... let's go for the Corsair H115i Platinum (with CoolIT)! Do you have any suggestions on placement of the CPU & GPU AIOs?


----------



## ozlay

PH-F140HP II as case fans? Thinking about replacing my XP's with HP's maybe.... I already have a pair of HP's on my cooler. I like the look of the white on white. The XP's don't look bad but they don't match.


----------



## ciarlatano

GiorgosSt said:


> OK then... let's go for the Corsair H115i Platinum (with CoolIT)! Do you have any suggestions on placement of the CPU & GPU AIOs?


Ugh....bad to worse. Since this is obviously RGB first, cooling second....you can actually keep the lights and still effectively cool the components without the rig sounding like a vacuum cleaner and having a mess of one-size-fits-none tubing all over the place:

https://www.newegg.com/gigabyte-geforce-rtx-2080-ti-gv-n208taorusx-wb-11gc/p/N82E16814932074
http://www.performance-pcs.com/complete-kits/swiftech-360-drive-x3-aio.html
http://www.performance-pcs.com/radiators/xspc-ex240-copper-dual-fan-radiator-black.html
http://www.performance-pcs.com/watercooling-fluids-additives/mayhems-x1-clear-concentrate-100ml.html
http://www.performance-pcs.com/barr...8-od-soft-tube-compression-fitting-black.html


----------



## doyll

GiorgosSt said:


> OK then... let's go for the Corsair H115i Platinum (with CoolIT)! Do you have any suggestions on placement of the CPU & GPU AIOs?


Listen to ciarlatano. If you want real water cooling do a custom loop. CLCs are the worst of the worst possilbe water cooling. There are a few AIOs (not CLCs) that are much, much better than CLCs, but still not near as good quality as mid-level custom loop. Swiftech Drive X2, be quiet! Silent Loop, and Alphacool Aisbear are significantly better than CLCs. 



ozlay said:


> PH-F140HP II as case fans? Thinking about replacing my XP's with HP's maybe.... I already have a pair of HP's on my cooler. I like the look of the white on white. The XP's don't look bad but they don't match.


If you do replace your XP's I would use PH-F140MP's. Same fan as PH-F140HP_II but in a square housing.


----------



## ozlay

doyll said:


> If you do replace your XP's I would use PH-F140MP's. Same fan as PH-F140HP_II but in a square housing.


Any benefit to them being square? I don't believe they make the MP's in an all white design.


----------



## doyll

ozlay said:


> Any benefit to them being square? I don't believe they make the MP's in an all white design.


I agree, I haven't seen PH-F140MP all white. Only reason I suggested them is I don't know if anyone sells PH-F140HP_II white other than Phanteks.com in USA


----------



## ozlay

doyll said:


> I agree, I haven't seen PH-F140MP all white. Only reason I suggested them is I don't know if anyone sells PH-F140HP_II white other than Phanteks.com in USA


I just emptied out amazon $20 each. They had 4 left. Which is how many i need. Cheaper shipping then Phanteks. However Newegg has them for $55 each. 

Are the Phanteks MetallicGear Skiron's any good? I seem to be finding conflicting info on them.


----------



## mattxx88

Hi guys

i'm an happy owner of a Evolv X since 1 month

this is my liquid build



my question is if i can find in EU a reseller for a modified top cover, i wanna a better exhaust of hot air from the top


----------



## doyll

mattxx88 said:


> Hi guys
> 
> i'm an happy owner of a Evolv X since 1 month
> 
> this is my liquid build
> 
> 
> 
> my question is if i can find in EU a reseller for a modified top cover, i wanna a better exhaust of hot air from the top


 Nice looking build! :thumb:


Did you block off all opening in radiator tray so air coming through radiator can't go back? This is critical with Evolv. 



You can remove the mesh from top's vent slots .. and if done carefully it can be saved and replaced later if you want. 


Just setting the top on without latching it down also adds a additional vent slot. Just don't try turning on/off computer with button on top unless you make and install as spacer the same thickness as top is raised and put it on top of power switch under buttom on top cover. If you don't have spacer and push the top button it will break loose from top.


----------



## ilmazzo

mattxx88 said:


> Hi guys
> 
> i'm an happy owner of a Evolv X since 1 month
> 
> this is my liquid build
> 
> 
> 
> my question is if i can find in EU a reseller for a modified top cover, i wanna a better exhaust of hot air from the top


me cojoni

congrats

the triple psu connections on gpu makes it really bad ass!


----------



## mattxx88

doyll said:


> Nice looking build! :thumb:
> 
> 
> Did you block off all opening in radiator tray so air coming through radiator can't go back? This is critical with Evolv.
> 
> 
> 
> You can remove the mesh from top's vent slots .. and if done carefully it can be saved and replaced later if you want.
> 
> 
> Just setting the top on without latching it down also adds a additional vent slot. Just don't try turning on/off computer with button on top unless you make and install as spacer the same thickness as top is raised and put it on top of power switch under buttom on top cover. If you don't have spacer and push the top button it will break loose from top.


thanks, i'm glad you appreciate!

i can't get what mesh you are talking about
i am looking at something like this:
https://modmymods.com/phanteks-enthoo-evolv-atx-replacement-top-cover-air-flow-mod-black.html




ilmazzo said:


> me cojoni


lol grazie


----------



## shilka

Removed my old GTX 1080 and installed the new RTX 2070 Super
The MSI RTX 2070 Super Gaming X Trio is freaking huge!


----------



## doyll

shilka said:


> Removed my old GTX 1080 and installed the new RTX 2070 Super
> The MSI RTX 2070 Super Gaming X Trio is freaking huge!


Always liked your builds! :thumb:


----------



## shilka

doyll said:


> Always liked your builds! :thumb:


 Thank you even the color coded cables does not look as bad as i feared they would and they already made my life a lot easier 

Still missing the Corsair Force MP510 1920 GB NVME SSD i ordered with the GPU so once i install that the oldest stuff in the system is the old 840 Evo with the Windows 7 install the motherboard CPU RAM and CPU cooler

Plan on moving to the Asrock X570 Taichi a 3800x 32 GB of G Skill 3200 MHz CL14 RAM and a Be Quiet Dark Rock Slim but that will have to wait since i have spent so much money on HDD´s SSD GPU PSU and all new cables

Edit: by the way this is the first time i have ever owned a GPU from MSI and right out of the box i already like the MSI Dragon Center a lot better than the awful EVGA Precision X


----------



## doyll

shilka said:


> Thank you even the color coded cables does not look as bad as i feared they would and they already made my life a lot easier
> 
> Still missing the Corsair Force MP510 1920 GB NVME SSD i ordered with the GPU so once i install that the oldest stuff in the system is the old 840 Evo with the Windows 7 install the motherboard CPU RAM and CPU cooler
> 
> Plan on moving to the Asrock X570 Taichi a 3800x 32 GB of G Skill 3200 MHz CL14 RAM and a Be Quiet Dark Rock Slim but that will have to wait since i have spent so much money on HDD´s SSD GPU PSU and all new cables


With the price SSDs are going for you might want to keep an eye on them and maybe get another before they go back up. They have been getting cheaper and cheaper the last couple of months. 500GB SSD for about £50, saw WD Green SSD M.2 240GB for £24.99 yesterday, Crucial MX500 1TB for £89 a week ago.


----------



## shilka

doyll said:


> With the price SSDs are going for you might want to keep an eye on them and maybe get another before they go back up. They have been getting cheaper and cheaper the last couple of months. 500GB SSD for about £50, saw WD Green SSD M.2 240GB for £24.99 yesterday, Crucial MX500 1TB for £89 a week ago.


 Ordered a Corsair Force MP510 last week and the only reason for that instead of a 2 TB 860 Evo is i need to free up SATA ports
Motherboards today only have 6-8 SATA ports which is a problem so an NVME SSD frees up a SATA port


----------



## doyll

shilka said:


> Ordered a Corsair Force MP510 last week and the only reason for that instead of a 2 TB 860 Evo is i need to free up SATA ports
> Motherboards today only have 6-8 SATA ports which is a problem so an NVME SSD frees up a SATA port


Indeed, some have 2. evem 3 M.2 connections/mounts. 


Much of my backup is on USB3 drives .. one 8TB and one 5TB. Incremental backup is a breeze, but it does take a couple days to do complete backup.  Here USB drives are a fraction the price of normal SATA. Haven't opened up one of these cases, but older ones were same SATA drives as sold for SATA use. They use USB to SATA inside of their case.


----------



## shilka

doyll said:


> Indeed, some have 2. evem 3 M.2 connections/mounts.
> 
> 
> Much of my backup is on USB3 drives .. one 8TB and one 5TB. Incremental backup is a breeze, but it does take a couple days to do complete backup.  Here USB drives are a fraction the price of normal SATA. Haven't opened up one of these cases, but older ones were same SATA drives as sold for SATA use. They use USB to SATA inside of their case.


 Think my top PCI-E slot on my motherboard is damged or the driver was F´ed up because when i turn on the TV hooked up to the PC the TV would blink flicker and have artifacts
Moved the RTX 2070 Super to the second PCI-E slot and used a DDU to removed all traces of drivers, dont know which of the two was the problem but it seems like it has been fixed

Ordered a new HDMI cable as well and it has already been shipped so too late to cancel
Might be a good idea to replace it anyway since its not new 

Because the GPU is now sitting in the second PCI-E slot i will need to remove the GPU to install the M.2 SSD and then put the GPU back on top of the SSD
Or i will need to buy a PCI-E adaptor with an M.2 NVME slot on it

Will it be a problem for the M.2 SSD to be sitting under the GPU?


----------



## doyll

shilka said:


> Think my top PCI-E slot on my motherboard is damged or the driver was F´ed up because when i turn on the TV hooked up to the PC the TV would blink flicker and have artifacts
> Moved the RTX 2070 Super to the second PCI-E slot and used a DDU to removed all traces of drivers, dont know which of the two was the problem but it seems like it has been fixed
> 
> Ordered a new HDMI cable as well and it has already been shipped so too late to cancel
> Might be a good idea to replace it anyway since its not new
> 
> Because the GPU is not sitting in the second PCI-E slot i will need to remove the GPU to install the M.2 SSD and then put the GPU back on top of the SSD
> Or i will need to buy a PCI-E adaptor with an M.2 NVME slot on it
> 
> Will it be a problem for the M.2 SSD to be sitting under the GPU?


Sometimes getting GPU, HDMI cable, etc. to all work properly can be a real nightmare. I have a extra HDMI cable just for testing. 

I don't think it will be a problem. Just keep an eye on it's temps to be sure it's getting enough airflow over it.


----------



## shilka

doyll said:


> Sometimes getting GPU, HDMI cable, etc. to all work properly can be a real nightmare. I have a extra HDMI cable just for testing.
> 
> I don't think it will be a problem. Just keep an eye on it's temps to be sure it's getting enough airflow over it.


Actually the problem seem to start right after the TV upated its smart OS but maybe thats just a coincidence since it did that the day after i moved the GPU from the second to the first PCI-E slot
Anyway like i said its an old HDMI cable and the TV is an LG C8 OLED TV so maybe a new HDMI cable is not a bad idea anyway

Having the GPU in the first slot is a massive pain in the butt by the way since its almost impossible to remove the GPU with the CPU cooler so close so to hell with the first slot


----------



## doyll

shilka said:


> Actually the problem seem to start right after the TV upated its smart OS but maybe thats just a coincidence since it did that the day after i moved the GPU from the second to the first PCI-E slot
> Anyway like i said its an old HDMI cable and the TV is an LG C8 OLED TV so maybe a new HDMI cable is not a bad idea anyway
> 
> Having the GPU in the first slot is a massive pain in the butt by the way since its almost impossible to remove the GPU with the CPU cooler so close so to hell with the first slot


 Hard to know for sure. I've seen updates cause problems too many time to not know they can do nasty things. 



I made myself a couple of 'tools' just for reaching PCIe latch so I could get GPU out without removing cooler. One is kind of a stretched 'C' that bottom turns to push on latch when top is turned. Other catches the latches that hinge toward front of mobo to release. Not need them often but work a treat .. if I can find them when I need them. I rarely need them.


----------



## shilka

Still getting artfacts on the TV so at this point it has to be either the HDMI cable or the TV and i really hope its the HDMI cable because its a massive pain in the butt taking down the 55 inch TV putting it in its box and taking it to the shop for repair


----------



## Imprezzion

Well, I just jumped on EK's clearance sale for the MLC Phoenix kits so in a few days my Evolv X will be upgraded with a 280mm EK kit in the top.

I'm kinda disappointed ColdZero.eu doesn't have any custom panels or upgrades for the Evolv line-up. Would've loved a custom front PSU cover or a different mid bar for the plastic cable covers with like, RGB strips as well lol.


----------



## doyll

shilka said:


> Still getting artfacts on the TV so at this point it has to be either the HDMI cable or the TV and i really hope its the HDMI cable because its a massive pain in the butt taking down the 55 inch TV putting it in its box and taking it to the shop for repair


Bummer. I fought with occasional tearing forever (over a year) on our TV. After trying different GPUs I found a really old HD 6800 series I had put a Thermalright cooler and decided to give it a try. Works like a charm with no more problems. I believe in don't mess with it when it's working .. no reason to update mobo BIOS or GPU if everything is working fine. It's just tempting the Gods.  




Imprezzion said:


> Well, I just jumped on EK's clearance sale for the MLC Phoenix kits so in a few days my Evolv X will be upgraded with a 280mm EK kit in the top.
> 
> I'm kinda disappointed ColdZero.eu doesn't have any custom panels or upgrades for the Evolv line-up. Would've loved a custom front PSU cover or a different mid bar for the plastic cable covers with like, RGB strips as well lol.


Seems most mods are available in USA and not much elsewhere .. sadly. Did you ask them if they knew of anyone who could cut a custom panel? Not like it's hard to do with a CNC waterjet and simple program.


----------



## shilka

doyll said:


> Bummer. I fought with occasional tearing forever (over a year) on our TV. After trying different GPUs I found a really old HD 6800 series I had put a Thermalright cooler and decided to give it a try. Works like a charm with no more problems. I believe in don't mess with it when it's working .. no reason to update mobo BIOS or GPU if everything is working fine. It's just tempting the Gods.


 Found the damm problem and it turns out that with the lastest LG WebOS update it has turned on something called LG Deepcolor which completely messed up the TV

Worst part is because i did a factory re-set the TV is back to factory settings which means that the calibrated settings are gone and i need to take the TV down the wall and have it re-calibrated which is going to cost money so thank very much for that LG you damm bastards!!!

3 days and countless hours of work and trial and error with the PC only for it to be a software update coded by a color blind chimpanse with parkinson disease high on LSD


----------



## Imprezzion

doyll said:


> Bummer. I fought with occasional tearing forever (over a year) on our TV. After trying different GPUs I found a really old HD 6800 series I had put a Thermalright cooler and decided to give it a try. Works like a charm with no more problems. I believe in don't mess with it when it's working .. no reason to update mobo BIOS or GPU if everything is working fine. It's just tempting the Gods.
> 
> 
> 
> Seems most mods are available in USA and not much elsewhere .. sadly. Did you ask them if they knew of anyone who could cut a custom panel? Not like it's hard to do with a CNC waterjet and simple program.


I have CNC waterjetted my top panel with a 360mm exhaust vent.

Posted it a few pages back lol. My dad's workplace has a CNC waterjet so all I had to do was make a .dwg in AutoCAD and send it to them.

I can get coldzero to make custom acrylic parts but costs are pretty high. The only thing I don't like in the Evolv X are the cheap looking cable cover plates so I might have a extra cover build for them with res/pump mounts build-in if I ever decide to add a separate res / pump.

Oh and I snapped one of the clips that hold the rear cable covers... Got a bit tight with the amount of A-RGB cables I shoved behind them and it wouldn't come loose and I pulled it a bit too hard... Oh well.


----------



## KCDC

shilka said:


> Found the damm problem and it turns out that with the lastest LG WebOS update it has turned on something called LG Deepcolor which completely messed up the TV
> 
> Worst part is because i did a factory re-set the TV is back to factory settings which means that the calibrated settings are gone and i need to take the TV down the wall and have it re-calibrated which is going to cost money so thank very much for that LG you damm bastards!!!
> 
> 3 days and countless hours of work and trial and error with the PC only for it to be a software update coded by a color blind chimpanse with parkinson disease high on LSD


I noticed my B7 updated a couple days ago.. Guess I'll see what crap it did to it when I plug my computer in tonight...

I know nothing beats a pro calibration, but I've been using a bunch of color/WB settings from AVforums including a cal file for Dolby vision that did great work for the colors and overall picture. Maybe that's enough for now until you get it recalibrated.


----------



## shilka

KCDC said:


> I noticed my B7 updated a couple days ago.. Guess I'll see what crap it did to it when I plug my computer in tonight...
> 
> I know nothing beats a pro calibration, but I've been using a bunch of color/WB settings from AVforums including a cal file for Dolby vision that did great work for the colors and overall picture. Maybe that's enough for now until you get it recalibrated.


 If the picture blinks flickers and have artfacts its because of the LG Ultra Deep Color the newest WebOS update has turned on without even asking you
I could not find the option to turn the damm thing off so i had to walk across the street to my local electronic store and ask how you turn it off

Spent so many hours trying old and new drivers the old GTX 1080 as well as the new RTX 2070 Super changing settings and moving the GPU to another PCI-E slot
Even ordered a new HDMI cable so that was money spent for no reason

I am not sure if the guy in the store knows what he is talking about does a calibration really go away if you re-set your TV?
Its been a few hours and to be honest i am not sure if the TV looks any different than before

Edit: i am using the setting called expert dark room as i like that one the best


----------



## KCDC

shilka said:


> If the picture blinks flickers and have artfacts its because of the LG Ultra Deep Color the newest WebOS update has turned on without even asking you
> I could not find the option to turn the damm thing off so i had to walk across the street to my local electronic store and ask how you turn it off
> 
> Spent so many hours trying old and new drivers the old GTX 1080 as well as the new RTX 2070 Super changing settings and moving the GPU to another PCI-E slot
> Even ordered a new HDMI cable so that was money spent for no reason
> 
> I am not sure if the guy in the store knows what he is talking about does a calibration really go away if you re-set your TV?
> Its been a few hours and to be honest i am not sure if the TV looks any different than before


I haven't done a factory reset before, but I am pretty sure it's going to wipe any settings you put in. As far as a pro calibration where it writes a file to the "system" I am not sure nor how to check that or if that's what they really do. There are pretty smart people over at AVSforum where I found a very in-depth calibration setup that I manually put the settings in on white balance, RGB, Luminance, gamma etc for each input. This also included a .txt that had other cal settings for dolby vision which I uploaded from a usb key. I could tell a huge difference between that and the basic settings I got from rtings. It took about an hour as they were different for each type of input (HDR, Dolby Vision, SDR and Game mode specifically for xbonex), and was specific to the LG B7. They will also say a pro cal is always better since each panel is different, but I've also read that the panel differences in OLED displays is much smaller than other panel types.


----------



## doyll

Imprezzion said:


> I have CNC waterjetted my top panel with a 360mm exhaust vent.
> 
> Posted it a few pages back lol. My dad's workplace has a CNC waterjet so all I had to do was make a .dwg in AutoCAD and send it to them.
> 
> I can get coldzero to make custom acrylic parts but costs are pretty high. The only thing I don't like in the Evolv X are the cheap looking cable cover plates so I might have a extra cover build for them with res/pump mounts build-in if I ever decide to add a separate res / pump.
> 
> Oh and I snapped one of the clips that hold the rear cable covers... Got a bit tight with the amount of A-RGB cables I shoved behind them and it wouldn't come loose and I pulled it a bit too hard... Oh well.


Thanks for the info. 

When I bent one of my cable management cover clips Phanteks sold me some. Didn't cost much either. 
@shilka
Glad you figured out what the problem was, sorry you lost your color balance.


----------



## shilka

Just cost me $75 to get it re-calibrated on monday so yeah i am really happy... not and i have to live with it this weekend and it looks awful now
Called LG to complain about the update and they pretty much said not our problem and hung up


----------



## JustinThyme

Xrite ColorMunki Calibration puts in offesets at the driver level to anything you connect to it. I use the model that also calibrates the printer for photos. in a word.......Perfection. They have an economy tier that does displays only.


----------



## doyll

shilka said:


> Just cost me $75 to get it re-calibrated on monday so yeah i am really happy... not and i have to live with it this weekend and it looks awful now
> Called LG to complain about the update and they pretty much said not our problem and hung up


Maybe check with your country and/or EU laws about recommended updates being defective and causing problems that cost money to fix. There may be a way to get paid what it costs to fix problem.


----------



## shilka

doyll said:


> Maybe check with your country and/or EU laws about recommended updates being defective and causing problems that cost money to fix. There may be a way to get paid what it costs to fix problem.


 I am going to look into that
Edit: my claim is too small and i was told that its more trouble than its worth


----------



## Moose-Tech

Barefooter said:


> Hello Phanteks case owners,
> 
> I'm looking at the Phanteks Eclipse P600S case. I already have a 420mm rad, a 280mm rad, and a bunch of 140mm fans. It looks like I can put the 420 in front and the 280 on top. Does anyone here have a build picture with that configuration they could post here?
> 
> I just want to see how it will work out, and are there any clearance issues or thickness/width limitations!
> 
> Thanks,
> Barefooter


I just built out my rig in a Pro M SE and put 2 HWL Nemesis 280GTS Xflow rads in it. They are great rads and do a great job of cooling my case.

However:
Front - In the front I had to take a dremel to widen the slot to fit the rad. I had to cut down BOTH sides of the slot. However check for clearance for the full length of the radiator.
Top - On the top the extra 5mm width the Nemesis needed required me to swap out my RAM to a set with less height. Couldn't use the Corsair RGB Pro.

By the way, I wish I had known about the P600S coming out as i would have bought that instead of the Pro M SE. I would have loved to put a 420 in the front!


----------



## Spank7

I have the Phanteks Enthoo Pro m Acrylic and i have built a new system with ryzen 3700x.

With the new setup i'm looking to change a little my airflow and cooling of my system. For cooling i'm using a Noctua nhd14 which is doing an awesome job but i would like to to to watercooling and something a little bulkier and huge of noctua. 

I was thinking at start for a custom cooling and loop but for a couple of reasons i dont think i will do it ( and its not the money ) , so i'm searching for the best closed watercooling / aio for the matter of cooling and not rgb , could you make me some suggestions what's the best i can get ..

Other than that i have 2 x 140 phanteks fan on the front , 3 x phanteks on the top and 1 fan to the back. , even if i did a custom cooling or aio its best to put my radiator to the front or the top ?


----------



## Imprezzion

Spank7 said:


> I have the Phanteks Enthoo Pro m Acrylic and i have built a new system with ryzen 3700x.
> 
> With the new setup i'm looking to change a little my airflow and cooling of my system. For cooling i'm using a Noctua nhd14 which is doing an awesome job but i would like to to to watercooling and something a little bulkier and huge of noctua.
> 
> I was thinking at start for a custom cooling and loop but for a couple of reasons i dont think i will do it ( and its not the money ) , so i'm searching for the best closed watercooling / aio for the matter of cooling and not rgb , could you make me some suggestions what's the best i can get ..
> 
> Other than that i have 2 x 140 phanteks fan on the front , 3 x phanteks on the top and 1 fan to the back. , even if i did a custom cooling or aio its best to put my radiator to the front or the top ?


Best AIO with no RGB? EVGA CLC280, EK-MLC Phoenix 280/360 if available or Alphacool Eisbaer Extreme 280.


----------



## shilka

Spank7 said:


> I have the Phanteks Enthoo Pro m Acrylic and i have built a new system with ryzen 3700x.
> 
> With the new setup i'm looking to change a little my airflow and cooling of my system. For cooling i'm using a Noctua nhd14 which is doing an awesome job but i would like to to to watercooling and something a little bulkier and huge of noctua.
> 
> I was thinking at start for a custom cooling and loop but for a couple of reasons i dont think i will do it ( and its not the money ) , so i'm searching for the best closed watercooling / aio for the matter of cooling and not rgb , could you make me some suggestions what's the best i can get ..
> 
> Other than that i have 2 x 140 phanteks fan on the front , 3 x phanteks on the top and 1 fan to the back. , even if i did a custom cooling or aio its best to put my radiator to the front or the top ?


https://www.overclock.net/forum/61-...y-you-should-probably-not-buy-clc-cooler.html


----------



## Spank7

Imprezzion said:


> Best AIO with no RGB? EVGA CLC280, EK-MLC Phoenix 280/360 if available or Alphacool Eisbaer Extreme 280.


I dont care so much for rgb , im searching for the best cooling solution to replace my noctua nhd14

Should i be looking for 280 radiator or 360 to cool my 3700x ?


----------



## doyll

Spank7 said:


> I dont care so much for rgb , im searching for the best cooling solution to replace my noctua nhd14
> 
> Should i be looking for 280 radiator or 360 to cool my 3700x ?


 While 360 rad has slighting bigger print area, the difference is minimal. 
.
But 280 rad fans run cooler than 360 rad fans.
.
Review sites that do good testing of custom loop 
.
components when testing 280 & 360 rads found little to no difference. Go with the one that will have best airflow in your system. 
.


----------



## Imprezzion

doyll said:


> While 360 rad has slighting bigger print area, the difference is minimal.
> .
> But 280 rad fans run cooler than 360 rad fans.
> .
> Review sites that do good testing of custom loop
> .
> components when testing 280 & 360 rads found little to no difference. Go with the one that will have best airflow in your system.
> .


This. The EVGA CLC280 had a great pump and rad design but it's loud as all heck. Same kinda goes for the Alphacool Extreme 280. The EK MLC Phoenix 280 is on a massive clearance sale / discount on EK's own webshop if stock is still there as it's basically EOL and can be had for a incredible deal for around €170 incl shipping to EU.

If you want a bit simpler AIO which does have RGB but is simpler to install and "maintain" a Kraken X72 would pretty much be the best you can get at the moment together with the much cheaper H150i Pro.

The guys at Gamers Nexus have a very nice review comparing most AIO's like the X72, H150i Pro and others and showing the EVGA CLC280 beating everything but at much higher noise levels. The EK Phoenix 360 and 280 perform equally as good and can be had very cheap as mentioned so.. take your pick 

https://www.gamersnexus.net/hwreviews/3296-nzxt-kraken-x72-review-and-benchmark


----------



## Spank7

Above all these i would go with EK MLC-Phoenix 280 Kit which as you say its enough for my 3700x. 
@Imprezzion I see at your rig you have the MLC-Phoenix 280 , how is it from temps


----------



## Imprezzion

Spank7 said:


> Above all these i would go with EK MLC-Phoenix 280 Kit which as you say its enough for my 3700x.
> 
> @Imprezzion I see at your rig you have the MLC-Phoenix 280 , how is it from temps


I haven't installed it yet the package should arrive this afternoon. Going to install it later tonight I hope.

Currently I run a fully 3000 grit lapped 9900K on the sig settings and it runs about 85c peak core temps in Prime AVX smallest FFT under a Corsair H110i GTX (aka H115i Gen 1) I'll see how far it drops.

EDIT: It's in. Temps are amazing. It does exactly what i wanted it to do. Keep it under 80c in Prime95. 
This is after 30 minutes of Small FFT AVX on on 4.925 1.25v. Look at how close those core temps are together! The 3000 grit lap and this epic mirror finish block work amazingly well.

Only problem is, as this is the Phanteks club, the thing doesn't fit top mounted!!111!1.
It is too high with push-pull to clear my RAM darnit. I have to front-mount it! I'm testing it with it just laying on top of the case lol.

EDIT: K. Doing dumb ssh part 3. I already waterjet cut my top panel for an outtake. Now it's time I cut some more holes in it so I can direct mount the rad to the top panel and skip the rad mount bracket all together. If I pull the bracket out and just straight up mount it to the top panel there's enough clearance to go over the RAM and VRM block.


----------



## bernoulli72

Evolv X question. The case D-RGB cable is connected to the motherboard (Gigabyte X570 Aorus Elite). Using the Gigabyte RGB Fusion software to control the case lighting. When I shutdown the computer via normal windows shutdown the case base plate power cover with the LED stays lit up. I have to turn the power supply switch off to get it out. It lights up the bedroom at night otherwise. Any ideas about this?

Sent from my SM-T813 using Tapatalk


----------



## Moose-Tech

doyll said:


> While 360 rad has slighting bigger print area, the difference is minimal.
> .
> But 280 rad fans run cooler than 360 rad fans.
> .
> Review sites that do good testing of custom loop
> .
> components when testing 280 & 360 rads found little to no difference. Go with the one that will have best airflow in your system.
> .


Phanteks Enthoo Pro M SE ATX Mid Tower Case

Cooling: 
Intake: (2x) HardwareLabs Black Ice Nemesis 280GTS XFLOW Black Carbon radiators in full push/pull with 6x Deepcool CF140 Fans and 2x Prolimatech 140 Ultra Sleek Vortex Fans, both rads on Intake.
Exhaust I have one Deepcool CF 140 fan and one Deepcool CF120 fan (installed over PCIe case slots).

During most gaming sessions I run about 11.5c over ambient. I did have to mod the front of the case to fit the 153 mm width of the HWL rad and the top 280 HWL rad required me to use lower height RAM. However, the 140 mm fans run nice and quiet and still get the job done. The HWL rads remove a tremendous amount of heat for 30 mm rads. Keep in mind I am running an OC'd i7 9700K and a Radeon VII.
Even when running full heat load stress testing, my fans do not exceed 85%. !40 mm fans move a lot of air, and with the right fan can be very quiet.

I am about to add a 140 mm radiator to the back of my case. This will give me 700 mm x 140 mm of radiator surface.


----------



## JustinThyme

Keep in mind not all 280 and 360 rads are created equal. Its about flow and fin density.


----------



## Spank7

Help me with something , i was looking Corsair Hydro H150i Pro RGB but i cant figure out if it fits with no problem to my case but to the top


----------



## ciarlatano

Spank7 said:


> Help me with something , i was looking Corsair Hydro H150i Pro RGB but i cant figure out if it fits with no problem to my case but to the top


It will fit at the front of the Pro M with no issue provided the ODD and HDD bays are removed.


----------



## Spank7

ciarlatano said:


> It will fit at the front of the Pro M with no issue provided the ODD and HDD bays are removed.


Thanks .

Yeah i know it will fit no problem at the front , but i cant figure out if it fit at the top


----------



## ciarlatano

Spank7 said:


> Thanks .
> 
> Yeah i know it will fit no problem at the front , but i cant figure out if it fit at the top


It fits in the top with no issue, also. You just have to remove the ODD cage.


----------



## Spank7

ciarlatano said:


> It fits in the top with no issue, also. You just have to remove the ODD cage.


I have already removed it so im ok i suppose

Thanks a lot


----------



## AlphaC

Enthoo Luxe 2 is up http://www.phanteks.com/Enthoo-Luxe-2.html


It fits 4x 120mm in front.


----------



## shilka

AlphaC said:


> Enthoo Luxe 2 is up http://www.phanteks.com/Enthoo-Luxe-2.html
> 
> 
> It fits 4x 120mm in front.


 With room for up to x12 HDD´s this could be a great case for a home/media server
I might buy a Luxe 2 when i upgrade my motherboard CPU and RAM next year


----------



## Heuchler

Phanteks Enthoo Luxe 2 with dual system in one case is my new favorite (Main + ITX)


----------



## th322

Will we ever see a revision 2 for the Enthoo Elite??


----------



## JustinThyme

th322 said:


> Will we ever see a revision 2 for the Enthoo Elite??


Probably not. the original is a bit hard to improve on and expensive as all get out. I originally build it an Obsidian 900D and went to the Enthoo Elite. The design is a couple of years old. Look how long it took for the obsidian 900D to get replaced with the 1000D. Almost went that route but a few restrictions kept me. Theres a ton of space in the current enthoo elite. 2x 480x600mm rads. and a 360x60mm rad. had a 280 in between the basement and main compartment but in that close of a proximity with the 480 in the bottom to two just didnt play nice with air flow. I opted to use the space where you can add another 360 beside the mobo to mount my dual D5 top and SATA ssds on.


----------



## doyll

th322 said:


> Will we ever see a revision 2 for the Enthoo Elite??


 What JustinThyme said.
Do you really need a case that big? 

Not a lot of demand for huge expensive cases as big as Elite is. I used Enthoo Primo which is 250x650x600mm (WxHxD) for several years with open center castor base under it making it 680mm high. Used it for a couple years, but it was just too big. Enthoo Elite is even bigger at 270x750x615mm. 

Phanteks just released it's new Enthoo Luxe 2 at 240x570x595mm and I'm seriously thinking of getting one.​


----------



## JustinThyme

Personally, I like the monster cases. I couldnt fit my current build into a luxe 2 even with a shoe horn.


----------



## Gilles3000

JustinThyme said:


> Personally, I like the monster cases. I couldnt fit my current build into a luxe 2 even with a shoe horn.


With a different choice of radiators, you could fit an equal amount of cooling as you currently have in the Luxe 2 quite easily. The Elite can still fit more though, if you're planning to add more radiators in the future.


----------



## JustinThyme

The lux 2 wont fit 2X 480x60,2x 360x60, 1 280x60 a 200mm res 3xD5 pumps with one mounted to res and the other two mounted to a dual serial top, two GPUs mounted vertically, 4 860EVO SSDs, 905P U2 and 21 fans and 1500W PSU with room to spare.

Not saying its not a decent case, just not big enough for me.


----------



## R99photography

Wow, the Luxe 2 is really impressive. Any idea how and where to place my Aquaero?
I saw there is a ODD bracket but I cannot understand if can accommodate that and where.



Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## shilka

R99photography said:


> I saw there is a ODD bracket but I cannot understand if can accommodate that and where.


You mount it in the same places as the HDD brackets in the front of the case but since there are no 5,25 cutouts in the front of the case the 5,25 devices will be pointing sideways towards the glass side panel which means that every time you need to use the 5,25 devices you need to open up the glass side panel


----------



## JustinThyme

R99photography said:


> Wow, the Luxe 2 is really impressive. Any idea how and where to place my Aquaero?
> I saw there is a ODD bracket but I cannot understand if can accommodate that and where.


Cant speak for the luxe but I stripped mine of the brackets and mounted it on the backside. Dont need to see it, change parameters with software so its all good. luxe appears to be built similar to the enthoo elite with no basement, a few less features, not quite as stable etc.


----------



## DanS79

I think the Luxe 2 will be my next case. I want to step up to dual loop watercooling, and this looks like the perfect fit for that.


----------



## Elrick

shilka said:


> You mount it in the same places as the HDD brackets in the front of the case but since there are no 5,25 cutouts in the front of the case the 5,25 devices will be pointing sideways towards the glass side panel which means that every time you need to use the 5,25 devices you need to open up the glass side panel



Those whom have access to a certified safety glass cutting service can cut out the 5.25 inch cavity from their glass panel.

Suspect they would need either a Lazer or a high pressure water cutting system. Seen them both cut holes and shapes into Ceramic Panels and Pottery pieces, for an Art installation.

Very expensive but it's very safe, meaning no chance of cracking anything when using these new cutting technologies.


----------



## AlphaC

P400A might have too much metal in the front panel mesh and the white version has additional coating blocking air flow: 

https://youtu.be/-6rzR2ZQ3cc?t=343


"Not a Meshify C killer"


It's $75 on Amazon right now https://www.amazon.com/Phanteks-Mid-Tower-PH-EC400ATG_BK01-Tempered-Controller/dp/B07TYR1P1G


----------



## Biggu

I think the Luxe 2 will be my SMA8's replacement! Just waiting to see pricing info on it before I make my decision.


----------



## OrionBG

Biggu said:


> I think the Luxe 2 will be my SMA8's replacement! Just waiting to see pricing info on it before I make my decision.


You mean THIS pricing?


----------



## doyll

AlphaC said:


> P400A might have too much metal in the front panel mesh and the white version has additional coating blocking air flow:
> 
> https://youtu.be/-6rzR2ZQ3cc?t=343
> 
> "Not a Meshify C killer"
> 
> It's $75 on Amazon right now https://www.amazon.com/Phanteks-Mid-Tower-PH-EC400ATG_BK01-Tempered-Controller/dp/B07TYR1P1G


Would be nice to know what fan speed was during testing. I do think it's possible P400A front vent mesh could be more restrictive than Meshify front vent mesh, but with it's stock 3x front fans (no idea what the fan specs are) it should have more than enough airflow ability to keep components cool.


----------



## asdkj1740

fans location matters, p350x preinstalled single fan on front is a disaster.


----------



## doyll

asdkj1740 said:


> fans location matters, p350x preinstalled single fan on front is a disaster.


????? Almost all stock case fan setup are a disaster.


----------



## asdkj1740

doyll said:


> ????? Almost all stock case fan setup are a disaster.


h500 from nzxt is the cleverest


----------



## doyll

asdkj1740 said:


> h500 from nzxt is the cleverest


Seems you need to study up on airflow and how much is needed for case to supply cool air to components. Your NZXT H500 has 1x 120mm intake and 1x 120mm exhaust .. that not even enough to supply a CPU cooler with 140mm fan and definitely not enough to also supply 2x or 3x 80/90mm fans pushing air into GPU at same time as 1x 140mm is pushing air into CPU .. that all takes at least 2x, 3x 140mm intake fans is best. I don't use exhaust fans but rarely anymore because I figured out intake / exhaust was like push / pull on cooler or radiator .. as long as case a little more exhaust vent area there is no need for exhaust fans.  Well, sometimes needed to create aiflow paths through case that without exhaust fan air flows differnt paths.


----------



## Ramzinho

I'm building a new PC and I liked the dynamic O-11 but i found like at least 3 in 5 use that case. so i went with the case i always wished to own. still in the wrap as i'm still waiting for the rest of the parts. Yay i'm a part of this club now


----------



## Heuchler

Never seen a phantek giving birth. Can't unsee it. Can't look away either.


----------



## Ramzinho

Heuchler said:


> Never seen a phantek giving birth. Can't unsee it. Can't look away either.


Now i Can't unread this. -rep for you mate.


----------



## Gilles3000

Heuchler said:


> Never seen a phantek giving birth. Can't unsee it. Can't look away either.


----------



## JustinThyme

Ramzinho said:


> I'm building a new PC and I liked the dynamic O-11 but i found like at least 3 in 5 use that case. so i went with the case i always wished to own. still in the wrap as i'm still waiting for the rest of the parts. Yay i'm a part of this club now


Time to pop that cervix and let that baby out. 
Contemplating a build with the Shift X for HTPC with parts I already have short a MOBO. DAYUM those X299 mini ITX boards are insanely priced!! Asrock has the only one that will fit and its like $540. Seems like a lot for a single PCIE slot and 4 ram slots. Have a 7900X, PSU, 8 sticks of dominator 3800 CL19 ram and a pair of 1080Tis with blocks on them although the case will only fit one. May go with the 7700K and Asus formula board with trident Z laying around but Id rather use the HEDT parts. Either way if I want to keep it small I have to get a new MOBO.


----------



## Ramzinho

JustinThyme said:


> Time to pop that cervix and let that baby out.
> Contemplating a build with the Shift X for HTPC with parts I already have short a MOBO. DAYUM those X299 mini ITX boards are insanely priced!! Asrock has the only one that will fit and its like $540. Seems like a lot for a single PCIE slot and 4 ram slots. Have a 7900X, PSU, 8 sticks of dominator 3800 CL19 ram and a pair of 1080Tis with blocks on them although the case will only fit one. May go with the 7700K and Asus formula board with trident Z laying around but Id rather use the HEDT parts. Either way if I want to keep it small I have to get a new MOBO.


Join the cool Kids club and get a 3950X . there are cases that if you are creative enough you can get away with a 360 rad and dual GPUs setup and still manage to fit a custom loop in. I remember seeing a couple of builds that had 0 free space inside but they looked cool and compact. Small form factor is not the go at the moment due to case and sfx psus prices. 



Heuchler said:


> Never seen a phantek giving birth. Can't unsee it. Can't look away either.


You guys have no chill, Childbirth is a natural thing


----------



## owcraftsman

*Enthoo Luxe Vertical GPU Mod*

I know everyone is into the new cases and for good reason, but I wanted to share a blast from the past my Enthoo Luxe (original) with a recently completed vertical GPU Mod.

My Case 



Custom Painting optional










My Bracket Amazon

Red lines indicate where I trimmed the bracket and drilled holes for mounting.
This bracket takes 6 slots as mounted leaving 7 & 8 completely open and accessible as installed.










Clearances

Using the Dremel I cut a "C" shaped opening at the rear of the case the bent outward and crimped excess over the bracket.
Note in the image below I used a high density closed cell 1/2 strip of foam as a spacer between the bracket and case. This is the kind of foam that is very firm used for vibration dampening and helped with alignment when tightening the through bolts. I had some lying around I had used in the past as a water pump base in other builds. You also could use a closed-cell insulation board or similar.










You can see the clearance here but note to install a sound card or other devices in anything other than slot 7 it must be mounted before GPU and bracket during your build.
I was moving working mobo from one case to another so I wanted my devices in the exact same slots as they were before the move.










The face of GPU water block is approx. 30mm from side panel glass as installed.










Tools: Dremel, Drill, Pliers, Screw Driver

optional stuff
Krylon UV Green Paint
Magnetic UV Purple LED Strips

My Mod


----------



## doyll

owcraftsman said:


> I know everyone is into the new cases and for good reason, but I wanted to share a blast from the past my Enthoo Luxe (original) with a recently completed vertical GPU Mod.
> 
> My Case Phanteks Enthoo Luxe (original)
> Custom Painting optional
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My Bracket Amazon
> 
> Red lines indicate where I trimmed the bracket and drilled holes for mounting.
> This bracket takes 6 slots as mounted leaving 7 & 8 completely open and accessible as installed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clearances
> 
> Using the Dremel I cut a "C" shaped opening at the rear of the case the bent outward and crimped excess over the bracket.
> Note in the image below I used a high density closed cell 1/2 strip of foam as a spacer between the bracket and case. This is the kind of foam that is very firm used for vibration dampening and helped with alignment when tightening the through bolts. I had some lying around I had used in the past as a water pump base in other builds. You also could use a closed-cell insulation board or similar.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can see the clearance here but note to install a sound card or other devices in anything other than slot 7 it must be mounted before GPU and bracket during your build.
> I was moving working mobo from one case to another so I wanted my devices in the exact same slots as they were before the move.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The face of GPU water block is approx. 30mm from side panel glass as installed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tools: Dremel, Drill, Pliers, Screw Driver
> 
> optional stuff
> Krylon UV Green Paint
> Magnetic UV Purple LED Strips
> 
> My Mod


 Very nicely done! :thumb:
I'm still using an original Enthoo Luxe w/ no window. Still a good case!


----------



## Heuchler

my Phantek Enthoo Pro has been around the way. 

GIGABYTE GA-EX58-UD3R 

ASRock X370 Professional Gaming

GIGABYTE X570 AORUS MASTER


----------



## shilka

Looking at the Luxe 2 i am thinking about if its worth buying that case to get the space for up to x12 HDD´s or if i sould just be cheap and lazy and buy two 5,25 to 3,5 adaptor bays for my old Luxe 1
Buying the Luxe 2 and six good 140mm fans for it would be around 3000 kr or $450 US vs two 5,25 to 3,5 adaptor bays which would be 235 kr with shipping or $35 US


----------



## DanS79

It's not completely clear from the review, but it sounds like if you want to run dual 480s in the luxe 2 you will need to use 30mm or thinner rads.


----------



## Elrick

Ramzinho said:


> You guys have no chill, Childbirth is a natural thing



Just curious to know, how is the *Evolve X Case* for Air Cooling only?

Has anyone mentioned how effective it is because all I am seeing is everyone wanting these cases for Water-works only. No one is using this case for any Air Cooling, why?

Would love to know if this case won't choke fan input, from the front side of it since that solid panel section looks to be another horrid design for Air Cooling.


----------



## Gilles3000

DanS79 said:


> It's not completely clear from the review, but it sounds like if you want to run dual 480s in the luxe 2 you will need to use 30mm or thinner rads.


The 20mm XSPC TX radiators are surprisingly good, especially if you're going for a low rpm/quiet system.

So that's not as much of a downside as some people may think.


----------



## doyll

Elrick said:


> Just curious to know, how is the *Evolve X Case* for Air Cooling only?
> 
> Has anyone mentioned how effective it is because all I am seeing is everyone wanting these cases for Water-works only. No one is using this case for any Air Cooling, why?
> 
> Would love to know if this case won't choke fan input, from the front side of it since that solid panel section looks to be another horrid design for Air Cooling.


Evolv X has 5x more exhaust area and 3x more intake surface area than Evolv ATX, so Evolv X hsd 3x better airflow than Evolv ATX. My old Evolv ATX with was air cooled with 920 @ 4.2GHz (later changed to 980) was air cooled and never went above 68c. That was with GTX580 DirectCU II GPU and CPU both under full load to test cooling. 

I removed all PCIe back slot covers to increase rear vent area around GPU and front was full of 140mm intake fans (PH-F140MP) with all holes in fan mounting panel not covered by fans taped off so the air fans pushed into mobo compartment couldn't leak back in front with fans.


----------



## Ramzinho

Elrick said:


> Just curious to know, how is the *Evolve X Case* for Air Cooling only?
> 
> Has anyone mentioned how effective it is because all I am seeing is everyone wanting these cases for Water-works only. No one is using this case for any Air Cooling, why?
> 
> Would love to know if this case won't choke fan input, from the front side of it since that solid panel section looks to be another horrid design for Air Cooling.


You sir will get some results this weekend. since I'm not building my loop straight away, this case will run with absolute STOCK everything. I won't even bother changing the fans or adding more or anything, will run the 3700X with the wraith prism and 5700XT so this is kinda like a real-life test. however I don't have a controlled environment so all my results will be above ambient results, Which is a good thing since it's freaking cold now in Australia, whenever i want some warmth, i'll go play some games woohoo.


----------



## DanS79

Gilles3000 said:


> The 20mm XSPC TX radiators are surprisingly good, especially if you're going for a low rpm/quiet system.
> 
> So that's not as much of a downside as some people may think.


I've seen their benchmarks and they look very good in comparison to the Hardware Labs GTS rads. The GTS 480 is rated at 1500W, so I would assume tx480 is probably at least capable of 1000w.


----------



## ErrantPigeon

doyll said:


> Evolv X has 5x more exhaust area and 3x more intake surface area than Evolv ATX, so Evolv X hsd 3x better airflow than Evolv ATX. My old Evolv ATX with was air cooled with 920 @ 4.2GHz (later changed to 980) was air cooled and never went above 68c. That was with GTX580 DirectCU II GPU and CPU both under full load to test cooling.


I'd also add to that that the original Evolv ATX actually worked better for air-cooling than water-cooling. The solid front panel means there is more pressure to overcome - which isn't so bad if you're just supplying fresh air to an open interior using decent static pressure fans... but becomes an entirely different problem once you get that restriction sandwich (solid front + radiator with fans in between).

Personally, I ran the Evolv ATX just fine with a i7-3770k under a NH-D15S and a GTX 670 and then 1070 with a minor spacer mod to move the front panel by 2mm. Last year, I switched to the Evolv mATX TG and a 2700X (under the same cooler) that also works just fine with the same spacer mod. GPU never goes above the mid-70s (with a rather conservative silent fan curve) and my 3770k was around the low 70s (mostly one core, all at 4.3 Ghz) and my 2700X is usually in the mid-60s (maybe almost 70C I stress it with AVX2).

Given that the Evolv X is much better than either, it's likely to work reasonably well for air-cooling. It's not going to be the best air-cooling case of all times but it's sufficient to not hamper performance.


----------



## Gilles3000

DanS79 said:


> I've seen their benchmarks and they look very good in comparison to the Hardware Labs GTS rads. The GTS 480 is rated at 1500W, so I would assume tx480 is probably at least capable of 1000w.


I don't think the difference is even that big. And the TX has the benefit of being fairly unrestrictive, compared to the extremely restrictive GTS. So you won't need to run your pump as hard/loud to get the same flow rate if you're using more than a few radiators.

I'm a huge fan of HWL, but the XSPC TX really is a game changer for thin rads.


----------



## ciarlatano

Gilles3000 said:


> I don't think the difference is even that big. And the TX has the benefit of being fairly unrestrictive, compared to the extremely restrictive GTS. So you won't need to run your pump as hard/loud to get the same flow rate if you're using more than a few radiators.
> 
> I'm a huge fan of HWL, but the XSPC TX really is a game changer for thin rads.


If they made 140mm variations, I would jump on a TX to add to my loop.


----------



## Elrick

doyll said:


> I removed all PCIe back slot covers to increase rear vent area around GPU and front was full of 140mm intake fans (PH-F140MP) with all holes in fan mounting panel not covered by fans taped off so the air fans pushed into mobo compartment couldn't leak back in front with fans.


I'm in the market now to replace a very old Silverstone case, which has served me well for over 7 years now.

This Evolve X was the most SOLID looking case out of all the others available at PCCG, here in Convict Town. Hence it looks like I shall be handing over some moolah for this model instead.

Have always loved Aluminium Cases here and will be using it exclusively with my forth coming Thermalright HR-22 Cooler. It shall indeed be very quiet with little to no noise being established here, for normal running of all the AMD hardware.

_Will see how this case performs solely with AIR without needing to open any sections up due to what might fly into it and set up house inside (Australian Wildlife)._


----------



## Elrick

Ramzinho said:


> I won't even bother changing the fans or adding more or anything, will run the 3700X with the wraith prism and 5700XT so this is kinda like a real-life test. however I don't have a controlled environment so all my results will be above ambient results, Which is a good thing since it's freaking cold now in Australia, whenever i want some warmth, i'll go play some games woohoo.


Looking forward to your assessment down here in Convict Town :thumb: .

Curious to see how the temps would be in the environment at night, where the temp is really low at this point in time. Hoping the Evolve X without any modifications performs with heat exhaustion.


----------



## KCDC

Gilles3000 said:


> I don't think the difference is even that big. And the TX has the benefit of being fairly unrestrictive, compared to the extremely restrictive GTS. So you won't need to run your pump as hard/loud to get the same flow rate if you're using more than a few radiators.
> 
> I'm a huge fan of HWL, but the XSPC TX really is a game changer for thin rads.



I've been trying to figure out a third rad for my build, and this TX seems like the one, specifically the 360 crossflow for the front of my case. I'd do the 480, but space is minimal at the bottom with the bottom rad, and I'd like to have a crossflow for my config which they don't offer in 480. Price is right and looks like it performs really well. These HWL GTRs work great, but when I'm trying to work with a gpu renderview window open, they quickly get up to full speed to keep temps down since they don't perform their best at low RPMs. Wasn't the best choice in the beginning. I don't like seeing my water get above 40c and both cards get it to 38 pretty fast which is when I have the fan curve at full tilt. 



In this build with the Elite, I have the bottom rad as an intake push/pull with the main basement plate installed, but the smaller one removed for plumbing, top rad as exhaust pull, two rear exhaust case fans (one in the main area and the other behind the bottom rad) and the current four front fans as intake where the third rad would go. With this front rad installed, should I keep these fans as intake or flip them to exhaust? I also removed the back plate for more venting in the meantime. Currently the case gets up to about 33c with a 29c room ambient. Trying to reduce the amount of warm air pumping into the case which is why I ask.


----------



## tongerks

anyone has an idea if 2070 strix and rm1000x fits on evolv itx?


----------



## Gilles3000

tongerks said:


> anyone has an idea if 2070 strix and rm1000x fits on evolv itx?


The rm1000x fits but the 2070 Strix might be tight as its a 2.5 slot card. I'd suggest going with a 2 slot card instead both for clearance and airflow.


----------



## tongerks

Gilles3000 said:


> The rm1000x fits but the 2070 Strix might be tight as its a 2.5 slot card. I'd suggest going with a 2 slot card instead both for clearance and airflow.


thanks for the reply 

I see a build with strix 1070 ti and I've check the size this what I saw

strix 1070 ti
29.8 x 13.4 x5.25 Centimeter

Strix 2070
30.5 x 13.06 x4.89 Centimeter

here's the review fitting 1070 ti
is this kind of fit will cause me heat issue?


----------



## JustinThyme

KCDC said:


> I've been trying to figure out a third rad for my build, and this TX seems like the one, specifically the 360 crossflow for the front of my case. I'd do the 480, but space is minimal at the bottom with the bottom rad, and I'd like to have a crossflow for my config which they don't offer in 480. Price is right and looks like it performs really well. These HWL GTRs work great, but when I'm trying to work with a gpu renderview window open, they quickly get up to full speed to keep temps down since they don't perform their best at low RPMs. Wasn't the best choice in the beginning. I don't like seeing my water get above 40c and both cards get it to 38 pretty fast which is when I have the fan curve at full tilt.
> 
> 
> 
> In this build with the Elite, I have the bottom rad as an intake push/pull with the main basement plate installed, but the smaller one removed for plumbing, top rad as exhaust pull, two rear exhaust case fans (one in the main area and the other behind the bottom rad) and the current four front fans as intake where the third rad would go. With this front rad installed, should I keep these fans as intake or flip them to exhaust? I also removed the back plate for more venting in the meantime. Currently the case gets up to about 33c with a 29c room ambient. Trying to reduce the amount of warm air pumping into the case which is why I ask.


You need to crank down the sun. 29C ambient? Id choke. I go no higher than 25C ambient. 
Same case and I have 2X 480 Rads top and bottom and a 360 in the front. All of them exhausting. I have a 140mm fan in the back for fresh air in and run it a bit higher on RPMs than the rest. There is a 120 in the basement that has the same function and put magnetic filter material across the entired back intake. I tried the bottom as intake and the heated air from the bottom rad caused the others to rise in temp with warm air for intake. At first I had another 280 Rad in between the top portion and the basment but its just adding heat to the interior of the case and put the plate back in with just the small plate in the front for plumbing removed. My case temp stays about 1C above ambient and coolant about 1.5C above ambient until I load it down then its maybe 5C above ambient.


----------



## KCDC

JustinThyme said:


> You need to crank down the sun. 29C ambient? Id choke. I go no higher than 25C ambient.
> Same case and I have 2X 480 Rads top and bottom and a 360 in the front. All of them exhausting. I have a 140mm fan in the back for fresh air in and run it a bit higher on RPMs than the rest. There is a 120 in the basement that has the same function and put magnetic filter material across the entired back intake. I tried the bottom as intake and the heated air from the bottom rad caused the others to rise in temp with warm air for intake. At first I had another 280 Rad in between the top portion and the basment but its just adding heat to the interior of the case and put the plate back in with just the small plate in the front for plumbing removed. My case temp stays about 1C above ambient and coolant about 1.5C above ambient until I load it down then its maybe 5C above ambient.


Haha, if I could I would, I can get ambient to about 27-28c, but I don't leave the AC on when I'm not home. We've probably got another month or so of warm weather here, but at least it's dry. I did take that measurement before the room balanced out, but in general the case is always about 2-4c warmer than ambient which is is most likely from the basement rad. I was considering putting the small basement plate back in with holes for the plumbing, but then I think that bottom rad would just soak in heat. I've read conflicting cases vs too much negative or positive case pressure with not enough intake vs exhaust, but if this is working out for you, I will flip the bottom rad fans and the fronts this weekend for mostly exhaust with the rear top 140 as intake and leave the back case vent open with the filter. Thanks for chiming in.

Does anyone know how dirty XSPC rads are from the factory? I was just going to do a vinegar/baking soda/hot distilled water prep instead of the mayhems blitz deal.


----------



## Gilles3000

tongerks said:


> thanks for the reply
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler
> 
> 
> 
> I see a build with strix 1070 ti and I've check the size this what I saw
> 
> strix 1070 ti
> 29.8 x 13.4 x5.25 Centimeter
> 
> Strix 2070
> 30.5 x 13.06 x4.89 Centimeter
> 
> here's the review fitting 1070 ti
> is this kind of fit will cause me heat issue?


I've seen reports of people with 5.1cm cards claiming it didn't fit. and that 5.0cm is the max thickness. So yes technically it should fit regardless.

But the Evolv ITX already performs very poorly with air cooled graphics cards, so temps will be even worse by having it right against the PSU shroud.

I would suggest using a different case, what CPU cooler were you planning on using? That's the only other thing I need to know to recommend something.


----------



## JustinThyme

KCDC said:


> Haha, if I could I would, I can get ambient to about 27-28c, but I don't leave the AC on when I'm not home. We've probably got another month or so of warm weather here, but at least it's dry. I did take that measurement before the room balanced out, but in general the case is always about 2-4c warmer than ambient which is is most likely from the basement rad. I was considering putting the small basement plate back in with holes for the plumbing, but then I think that bottom rad would just soak in heat. I've read conflicting cases vs too much negative or positive case pressure with not enough intake vs exhaust, but if this is working out for you, I will flip the bottom rad fans and the fronts this weekend for mostly exhaust with the rear top 140 as intake and leave the back case vent open with the filter. Thanks for chiming in.
> 
> Does anyone know how dirty XSPC rads are from the factory? I was just going to do a vinegar/baking soda/hot distilled water prep instead of the mayhems blitz deal.



All rads are dirty from the factory. Cant tell you how much gunk Ive removed from factory "CLEAN" rads over the years. 
I read a lot of the positive vs negative as well but when the positive is heated before it gets to another rad then is kind of defeats the purpose. I did the exacct same thing with the exact same thoughts. It was really messed up before I got water blocks for my strix cards. I had to leave the case door open because all the heat the GPUs dumped in the case actually heated a loop they were not connected to just fro the hot air passing through the rads. Ive got push pull on everything but the front rad thats pull only. (needed the space for my res and pumps where the push would go). I dont think the push pull amounts to much of anything as far as added heat removal but I do believe that more fans moving slower is much quieter, at least thats what Im expecriencg with 20 fans in the machine. The only one running higher is the fresh air in thats in the back. I also left the back panel off where another rad could go just for more fresh air to get pulled in. I also saw certain arrangements where the fans were fighting each other. I tried about every combination there is in this case and what Im running now gave me the best results.


Id crap myself with 29C. did I already say that? LOL
My house is well insulated, AC is Ultra high efficiency (26 SEER) and the TStat is automated. Dehumidifies, humidifies, cool is 24C during the day when we are gone, 22C when home and back to 20C at night. Same temps in winter except day temp is lower like 18C and a 98.5% effcient furnace and water heater (also automated). Yeah Ive experienced that "DRY" heat in Aswan Egypt. Dont care how you slice it, when you are in a convection oven and your shoes stick to the asphalt its too damn hot!!


----------



## tongerks

Gilles3000 said:


> I've seen reports of people with 5.1cm cards claiming it didn't fit. and that 5.0cm is the max thickness. So yes technically it should fit regardless.
> 
> But the Evolv ITX already performs very poorly with air cooled graphics cards, so temps will be even worse by having it right against the PSU shroud.
> 
> I would suggest using a different case, what CPU cooler were you planning on using? That's the only other thing I need to know to recommend something.


will use the stock cooler of ryzen 3600.

i see 37usd itx evolv and i will remove the psu shroud do you think this will lessen the heat issue?


----------



## Ramzinho

Elrick said:


> Looking forward to your assessment down here in Convict Town :thumb: .
> 
> Curious to see how the temps would be in the environment at night, where the temp is really low at this point in time. Hoping the Evolve X without any modifications performs with heat exhaustion.


first things first, i've to say that the build quality of this case is beyond superb. i've built in NZXT, Corsair, Thermaltake and Antec cases for a long time and i've to say the build quality of this case is beyond any i've used before. the ease of build is probably the best i've seen just because of the cable management works, it's simply brilliant. i am seriously in love with this case.

Regarding temps and performance, this is not an aircooling case, i just can't wait to start building a loop in this beauty. however in a 22C cold room "Winter time down under", i'm getting max of 66C on the CPU using the wraith prism and 77C on the GPU Edge temp, this is all reference, no OC or undervolt. no fan speed adjustment. the system is pure vanilla other than XMP being run at 3600MHz. 

these temps are after 5 runs of Cinebench and 4 runs of time spy consecutively. Do not mind the GPU max core bug. it was running at 2050Mhz. 



Spoiler

















Spoiler


----------



## Gilles3000

tongerks said:


> will use the stock cooler of ryzen 3600.
> 
> i see 37usd itx evolv and i will remove the psu shroud do you think this will lessen the heat issue?


Damn, that really cheap for an Evolv ITX. I think it will improve your temps a little bit, yes, though its still quite close to your PSU.

But removing the PSU shroud requires you to drill out a bunch of rivets and the shroud is also a somewhat structural piece of the case.

Since its so cheap I'd just try it the way it is, temperatures might be okay. You can just return or flip it if you aren't satisfied.


----------



## KCDC

JustinThyme said:


> All rads are dirty from the factory. Cant tell you how much gunk Ive removed from factory "CLEAN" rads over the years.
> I read a lot of the positive vs negative as well but when the positive is heated before it gets to another rad then is kind of defeats the purpose. I did the exacct same thing with the exact same thoughts. It was really messed up before I got water blocks for my strix cards. I had to leave the case door open because all the heat the GPUs dumped in the case actually heated a loop they were not connected to just fro the hot air passing through the rads. Ive got push pull on everything but the front rad thats pull only. (needed the space for my res and pumps where the push would go). I dont think the push pull amounts to much of anything as far as added heat removal but I do believe that more fans moving slower is much quieter, at least thats what Im expecriencg with 20 fans in the machine. The only one running higher is the fresh air in thats in the back. I also left the back panel off where another rad could go just for more fresh air to get pulled in. I also saw certain arrangements where the fans were fighting each other. I tried about every combination there is in this case and what Im running now gave me the best results.
> 
> 
> Id crap myself with 29C. did I already say that? LOL
> My house is well insulated, AC is Ultra high efficiency (26 SEER) and the TStat is automated. Dehumidifies, humidifies, cool is 24C during the day when we are gone, 22C when home and back to 20C at night. Same temps in winter except day temp is lower like 18C and a 98.5% effcient furnace and water heater (also automated). Yeah Ive experienced that "DRY" heat in Aswan Egypt. Dont care how you slice it, when you are in a convection oven and your shoes stick to the asphalt its too damn hot!!



If I was still on the east coast, I would probably have the same situation as you, but in socal a lot of older properties aren't as well insulated due to having lesser winter conditions or so they say. We are currently in the hottest month(s) of the year. Once end of September comes around it will hopefully get back to normal. Just got the tx360 in the mail and about to find out how dirty it really is. My hwl gtrs had some of that white particulate which I think was flux, took a bunch of flushes to get it all. I know I was expecting a skinny rad, but this thing is skinny!


----------



## KCDC

I was a bit skeptical, but this skinny TX360 was a great addition to my loop. Pretty clean too after a few flushes, almost nothing came out. Thanks to those who mentioned it, I wouldn't have found it. I can now keep my fans at 900-1k max, water temp below 37c when gpu render view is on along with a couple degrees less on the GPUs while on load.. 39-40c instead of 42-45c. Big thumbs up from me, I can hear myself think now while I work. Also followed what @JustinThyme did and flipped all rads as exhaust and any other case fans as intake. Probably also helps a bit. Looks pretty nice on the front of my case as well even though it's dwarfed by the two GTRs. It also fixed a little plumbing cosmetic thing that was bugging me with the crossflow allowing me to run to my cpu from the top instead of all the way from the basement. Still waiting on new sleeved psu cables before I do a new Rig Build, quick pic for now.


----------



## Elrick

Ramzinho said:


> first things first, i've to say that the build quality of this case is beyond superb. i've built in NZXT, Corsair, Thermaltake and Antec cases for a long time and i've to say the build quality of this case is beyond any i've used before. the ease of build is probably the best i've seen just because of the cable management works, it's simply brilliant. i am seriously in love with this case.
> 
> Regarding temps and performance, this is not an aircooling case, i just can't wait to start building a loop in this beauty. however in a 22C cold room "Winter time down under", i'm getting max of 66C on the CPU using the wraith prism and 77C on the GPU Edge temp, this is all reference, no OC or undervolt. no fan speed adjustment. the system is pure vanilla other than XMP being run at 3600MHz.


Still a seriously decent score for an NON-air-cooled case.

Suspect you might get slightly lower temps with the front Aluminium Plate removed, which has been shown via various You-tube videos. Always suspected the quality of Phanteks to be beyond that of Lian Li or any other case being sold today.

I like their overall thickness of Aluminium which still has me excited in getting it, despite not being built for Air Cooling.

Thank you very much for your honest review of this case, which I shall be getting soon for my x570 setup.


----------



## KCDC

Got my cables today. Mainframe does a solid job. They helped me out with seeing color combos with pics since there isn't a UX situation on their site. Did my best with the spaghetti. Any help or critique is appreciated. Rest of the pics are in my latest rig build. Desktop cabling is next.
EDIT: Just want to add that I've done two builds for friends with the P600s as well, I love that case, just as easy to work with as the Elite. I will most likely stick with Phanteks cases for all builds as long as they last.


----------



## doyll

Nice looking build! :thumb:


----------



## JustinThyme

KCDC said:


> If I was still on the east coast, I would probably have the same situation as you, but in socal a lot of older properties aren't as well insulated due to having lesser winter conditions or so they say. We are currently in the hottest month(s) of the year. Once end of September comes around it will hopefully get back to normal. Just got the tx360 in the mail and about to find out how dirty it really is. My hwl gtrs had some of that white particulate which I think was flux, took a bunch of flushes to get it all. I know I was expecting a skinny rad, but this thing is skinny!


SoCal is unpredictable. Ive been in Costa Mesa when a Santa Ana wind was blowing and it topped 90 in Dec.


----------



## KCDC

JustinThyme said:


> SoCal is unpredictable. Ive been in Costa Mesa when a Santa Ana wind was blowing and it topped 90 in Dec.


 I am not looking forward to the Santa Ana winds. These days all that means is wildfires.


----------



## D13mass

Guys, a question to PHANTEKS ECLIPSE P600S users: is white glacier? And how glacier it is?
I can`t choose between grey color and white color. I like my Meshify С white, because it matches with my mouse/CPU cooler etc, but I can`t imagine how 600S could reflect light and it is really like a fridge in interior?


----------



## LazarusIV

D13mass said:


> Guys, a question to PHANTEKS ECLIPSE P600S users: is white glacier? And how glacier it is?
> I can`t choose between grey color and white color. I like my Meshify С white, because it matches with my mouse/CPU cooler etc, but I can`t imagine how 600S could reflect light and it is really like a fridge in interior?


I'm not exactly sure what you mean by "like a fridge" but the white portions are gloss. Is that what you were looking for?


----------



## D13mass

LazarusIV said:


> I'm not exactly sure what you mean by "like a fridge" but the white portions are gloss. Is that what you were looking for?


I mean something like this when you can see reflection of objects in case


----------



## =GzR=SmokeyDevil

D13mass said:


> Guys, a question to PHANTEKS ECLIPSE P600S users: is white glacier? And how glacier it is?
> I can`t choose between grey color and white color. I like my Meshify С white, because it matches with my mouse/CPU cooler etc, but I can`t imagine how 600S could reflect light and it is really like a fridge in interior?


The white is a semi-gloss white; however, is not a glass-smooth mirror finish. 
Interior is a matte white with black accents. 

The grey is what appears to be a gun-metal grey. 










I went with the white for my last build and used some white paint and wrap to help clean it up a little.


----------



## MoDeNa

Anyone knows best radiators config for the Enthoo Luxe 2? I am planning to move from my Fractal Define R6 with 2 x HWL GTS 360 to this case and install 2 x 480 and 2 x 360 rads to maximize cooling performance and silence ratio.

I will build a 3900x/3950x and RTX 2080 Ti.

I was having a look and for the bottom chamber only 125mm width rads will fit, so my HWL GTS 360 won't work there. Then I need to see clearance for top with side and front rads + fans... so much work ahead of me.

I've ordered this case today and I hope to receive it by the end of this week, so any advice / experience is more than welcome!

Many thanks all 

EDIT: What about Alphacool NexXxos XT45 Full Cooper radiators (360 and 480)?. They are 124mm width and 46mm thick, which I guess will fit in this case.


----------



## DanS79

MoDeNa said:


> Anyone knows best radiators config for the Enthoo Luxe 2? I am planning to move from my Fractal Define R6 with 2 x HWL GTS 360 to this case and install 2 x 480 and 2 x 360 rads to maximize cooling performance and silence ratio.


You are going to have a really hard time doing that.


----------



## 414347

I like that case but the darn RGB's are  hate RGB, even turning them off but knowing they are there, turn off


----------



## MoDeNa

DanS79 said:


> You are going to have a really hard time doing that.
> 
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9iCVjb6zm1w


Yes, I think so... I didn't realize before ordered it about the 125mm radiator width restriction of the bottom chamber and the 70mm max space for front radiator and fans when bottom rad is installed... 

So now, let's see how it goes. Hope to see more builds on the net in the coming weeks from other mates and get some fresh ideas.


----------



## DanS79

MoDeNa said:


> Yes, I think so... I didn't realize before ordered it about the 125mm radiator width restriction of the bottom chamber and the 70mm max space for front radiator and fans when bottom rad is installed...
> 
> So now, let's see how it goes. Hope to see more builds on the net in the coming weeks from other mates and get some fresh ideas.


If you go with slim rads like the XSPC TX series, and or slim fans like NF-a12x15s you could probably mount 4 rads.


----------



## MoDeNa

DanS79 said:


> If you go with slim rads like the XSPC TX series, and or slim fans like NF-a12x15s you could probably mount 4 rads.


I think I will go with the following rads setup:

2 x 360 Alphacool NexXxos XT45 V.2 for bottom and top
1 x 480 Alphacool NexXxos XT45 V.2 for front 
1 x 480 XSPC TX for side

Once I receive the chasis I will confirm if I have enough space for this to then order the radiators. My next concern is if with one D5 pump will be enough to maintain a good flow rate with this setup, but lets go step by step 

Cheers!


----------



## BS Zalman

MoDeNa said:


> I think I will go with the following rads setup:
> 
> 2 x 360 Alphacool NexXxos XT45 V.2 for bottom and top
> 1 x 480 Alphacool NexXxos XT45 V.2 for front
> 1 x 480 XSPC TX for side
> 
> Once I receive the chasis I will confirm if I have enough space for this to then order the radiators. My next concern is if with one D5 pump will be enough to maintain a good flow rate with this setup, but lets go step by step
> 
> Cheers!


Can we place the front fan on the outside, on the side of front panel and filter? So the radiator can take the inside and the hard drive bay can be free to mount beside the motherboard.


----------



## MoDeNa

BS Zalman said:


> Can we place the front fan on the outside, on the side of front panel and filter? So the radiator can take the inside and the hard drive bay can be free to mount beside the motherboard.


I will let you know tomorrow once I receive the case.


----------



## doyll

D13mass said:


> Guys, a question to PHANTEKS ECLIPSE P600S users: is white glacier? And how glacier it is?
> I can`t choose between grey color and white color. I like my Meshify С white, because it matches with my mouse/CPU cooler etc, but I can`t imagine how 600S could reflect light and it is really like a fridge in interior?


"Glacier White" is not as white as "Pure White". Best way to know is find the case somewhere and look. Next best would be go into a couple different paint stores and compare color chips.


----------



## MoDeNa

BS Zalman said:


> Can we place the front fan on the outside, on the side of front panel and filter? So the radiator can take the inside and the hard drive bay can be free to mount beside the motherboard.


It is possible if you don't use the mesh filter. But I think you have to consider that fans installed like this will be closer to the front panel and I guess this will be negative to airflow intake and consequently to noise.


----------



## doyll

BS Zalman said:


> Can we place the front fan on the outside, on the side of front panel and filter? So the radiator can take the inside and the hard drive bay can be free to mount beside the motherboard.





MoDeNa said:


> It is possible if you don't use the mesh filter. But I think you have to consider that fans installed like this will be closer to the front panel and I guess this will be negative to airflow intake and consequently to noise.


The rule of thumb in airflow industry is at least a fan's diameter in clearance, less than that and we'll be choking the fan. But cases often have less .. like most case front and bottom fans are way too close to front cover / floor. I use open center caster bases under my builds to increase bottom clearance to about 4-5cm. Fan noise is much lower and airflow is much higher.


----------



## JustinThyme

MoDeNa said:


> I think I will go with the following rads setup:
> 
> 2 x 360 Alphacool NexXxos XT45 V.2 for bottom and top
> 1 x 480 Alphacool NexXxos XT45 V.2 for front
> 1 x 480 XSPC TX for side
> 
> Once I receive the chasis I will confirm if I have enough space for this to then order the radiators. My next concern is if with one D5 pump will be enough to maintain a good flow rate with this setup, but lets go step by step
> 
> Cheers!



I think you hare having delusions of grandeur. 
You wont fit 2x 480 rads in this case. Best you will do with a shoe horn and tight squeeze would be 3X 360 and 1X 480.
Once you put one in the front there is no room to get one in the side, its an either or. I have an enthoo elite and it makes thise case look like a NUC. Im running 2X 480 and one 360 in the front. I could have jammed another 240, 280 or 360 in the bottom but that puts two rads competing for air flow. Mine is a single loop and 2 GPUs. 

Rememer you still have to get a res and pump in there. Personally I always run at least two D5 pumps for a few reasons. Flow, redundancy and you can tune them to offset each other where together they create a harmonic thats not as loud, think noise cancelling headphones. Personally Im running 3 D5s

If I were to employ this case with a single GPU it would be a 480 in the top, BS 360 in the bottom unless you want to go vertical with the GPU then the 360 in the front. Fans on the outside can bbe done with thin fans but dont count on the best flow as the clearance between the fan and the front cover is minimal. I did this with the elite and not much space left. Good airflow I think would be better than more rads that will be fighting each other. For you componenets Id do the 480 and 360 both blowing out and 3 x 120 fans in the side pulling fresh air in. You dont want to dump hot air in through one rad for the other to be sucking the hot air though it and back out.


----------



## DanS79

JustinThyme said:


> I think you hare having delusions of grandeur.
> You wont fit 2x 480 rads in this case.


You can fit 2 rads, in it. GGF Events confirmed this in the comments of his review video. You have to use a slim rad in the side mount, with the fans on the back of the MB tray.


----------



## MoDeNa

JustinThyme said:


> I think you hare having delusions of grandeur.
> You wont fit 2x 480 rads in this case. Best you will do with a shoe horn and tight squeeze would be 3X 360 and 1X 480.
> Once you put one in the front there is no room to get one in the side, its an either or. I have an enthoo elite and it makes thise case look like a NUC. Im running 2X 480 and one 360 in the front. I could have jammed another 240, 280 or 360 in the bottom but that puts two rads competing for air flow. Mine is a single loop and 2 GPUs.
> 
> Rememer you still have to get a res and pump in there. Personally I always run at least two D5 pumps for a few reasons. Flow, redundancy and you can tune them to offset each other where together they create a harmonic thats not as loud, think noise cancelling headphones. Personally Im running 3 D5s
> 
> If I were to employ this case with a single GPU it would be a 480 in the top, BS 360 in the bottom unless you want to go vertical with the GPU then the 360 in the front. Fans on the outside can bbe done with thin fans but dont count on the best flow as the clearance between the fan and the front cover is minimal. I did this with the elite and not much space left. Good airflow I think would be better than more rads that will be fighting each other. For you componenets Id do the 480 and 360 both blowing out and 3 x 120 fans in the side pulling fresh air in. You dont want to dump hot air in through one rad for the other to be sucking the hot air though it and back out.


Many thanks for your comments. This case room for rads is 360 / 420 top; 480 / 420 front, 480 side, and 360 / 140 bottom. 

I was having a look at GGF video, as DanS79 mentioned, and I could see that installing 2x480 rads is possible. The only thing you have to deal with is that you only have 30mm room on the side position to install a rad without blocking the front rad+fans. This is the reason for which I am going with the XSPC TX rad (20mm thick) for the side room.

The reason I go with Alphacool NexXxos XT45 V2 for bottom is because you are limited to 125mm max width rads (NexXxos is 124mm width). Then room for front rad without blocking 360mm bottom rad installed is 78 mm, so, again, with the NexXxos XT45 V2 + fans (25mm) make 70 mm of thickness so I guess I will have enough room to install it. For the top rad, 360mm seems to be fine.

I was also thinking about air pressure and I will install bottom, front and side radiator fans pushing from the outside of the case to the interior. Then the air will go out through top radiator fans and also through rear fan. This will generate a possitive air pressure and considering that this setup is overkill for this config, I guess that inside air temp will be easy to deal with and won't overheat the loop.

Of course I may be wrong with my idea because on the paper everything is easier, but the best thing I can do is to try it while I enjoy the process. I've ordered all the rads and the fittings (I will also re-use parts from my current rig) while I wait for the new hardware, but I am thinking about trying first with my current setup ([email protected],2 Ghz and 1080 Ti @ 2025 Mhz) to anticipate potential issues with the WC setup.

Many thanks again for your help and tips


----------



## JustinThyme

MoDeNa said:


> Many thanks for your comments. This case room for rads is 360 / 420 top; 480 / 420 front, 480 side, and 360 / 140 bottom.
> 
> I was having a look at GGF video, as DanS79 mentioned, and I could see that installing 2x480 rads is possible. The only thing you have to deal with is that you only have 30mm room on the side position to install a rad without blocking the front rad+fans. This is the reason for which I am going with the XSPC TX rad (20mm thick) for the side room.
> 
> The reason I go with Alphacool NexXxos XT45 V2 for bottom is because you are limited to 125mm max width rads (NexXxos is 124mm width). Then room for front rad without blocking 360mm bottom rad installed is 78 mm, so, again, with the NexXxos XT45 V2 + fans (25mm) make 70 mm of thickness so I guess I will have enough room to install it. For the top rad, 360mm seems to be fine.
> 
> I was also thinking about air pressure and I will install bottom, front and side radiator fans pushing from the outside of the case to the interior. Then the air will go out through top radiator fans and also through rear fan. This will generate a possitive air pressure and considering that this setup is overkill for this config, I guess that inside air temp will be easy to deal with and won't overheat the loop.
> 
> Of course I may be wrong with my idea because on the paper everything is easier, but the best thing I can do is to try it while I enjoy the process. I've ordered all the rads and the fittings (I will also re-use parts from my current rig) while I wait for the new hardware, but I am thinking about trying first with my current setup ([email protected],2 Ghz and 1080 Ti @ 2025 Mhz) to anticipate potential issues with the WC setup.
> 
> Many thanks again for your help and tips


I dont think you can fit all that in there. It gives you positions but not that they will all fit in there. My Enthoo Elite gives multiple positions also but no way its all going to fit. Specs say a 480 in the front but once I put one in the top and bottom I could only do a 360 in the front and the 360 in the front wont let me put a 360 in the back. Best bet is to get the case in hand then buy rads later. Then you will know for sure and enlighten everyone else. 

I thought the heated air wouldn't be an issue either. Had issues. Dropped one rad between the basement of my case and put all rads blowing out and fans pushing in fresh air in the back and side. Cool and quiet now. I consider mine overkill especially with the 120 for every component rule that I thinks is crapola. @x 480 rads with push pull and one 360 with pull only and the intake fans do quite a good job with a 9940X and a pair of 2080Tis. 

Good luck with the build!


----------



## hesho

i think i will finally join the club!!!

i bought the case (checks amazon..) ah well, may 2016 and i FINALLY built a new computer. Before you ask, i got the enthoo primo from amazon for 132cad (crazy good deal i thought) and i figured i would build a new system. Over 3 years later, i finally did it!!!

sad part, i never opened the box and the top vent clip is broken.. BAHHHHHH


----------



## doyll

hesho said:


> i think i will finally join the club!!!
> 
> i bought the case (checks amazon..) ah well, may 2016 and i FINALLY built a new computer. Before you ask, i got the enthoo primo from amazon for 132cad (crazy good deal i thought) and i figured i would build a new system. Over 3 years later, i finally did it!!!
> 
> sad part, i never opened the box and the top vent clip is broken.. BAHHHHHH


Hi! and welcome to the club. 



For your broken top vent clip, try calling or emailing Phanteks support about it. 

USA and Canada  * +1(909)598-2115* 
 [email protected]


You can buy them on ebay:
https://www.ebay.ca/sch/i.html?_fro...se+Catch+Latch+Phanteks+Enthoo+Primo&_sacat=0


----------



## MoDeNa

Hi again! Finally I received all the WC stuff and I am going to rethink the loop, as JustinThyme pointed. It is not possible to fit both 480mm at the same time because I don't have space for the fittings

Finally I will be using the following:

- Top: Alphacool NexXxos XT45 360mm V2
- Front: Alphacool NexXxos XT45 480mm V2 
- Bottom: Alphacool NexXxos XT45 360mm V2
- Pump: 1 x Protium D5 with 200mm reservoir
- Fans: 10 x Noctua NF A12-25 PWM in push config for the rads and 4 Noctua AF A12-25 for side room of the case (fresh air in)
- Flow meter from Aquacomputer
- Temp sensor
- Aquaero 6 LT to monitor and control everything

Do you think that this setup will be enough to cool a Ryzen 3900x with one RTX 2080 Ti with fans spinning at 800rpm maximum?

Many thanks!


----------



## hesho

doyll said:


> Hi! and welcome to the club.
> 
> 
> 
> For your broken top vent clip, try calling or emailing Phanteks support about it.
> 
> USA and Canada  * +1(909)598-2115*
> [email protected]
> 
> 
> You can buy them on ebay:
> https://www.ebay.ca/sch/i.html?_fro...se+Catch+Latch+Phanteks+Enthoo+Primo&_sacat=0


hmmm

i never thought of that actually. I'll give them a ding. On a different note, i might get flamed for this, i'm not water cooling nor am i oc'ing... seems like such a waste, but i only got the case because of the price was over half off (i always figured it was a price mistake)


----------



## bajer29

No flaming from me. I'm stock clocks (more or less) running a 4790K and 1080TI on air in a PRO M


----------



## ciarlatano

hesho said:


> hmmm
> 
> i never thought of that actually. I'll give them a ding. On a different note, i might get flamed for this, i'm not water cooling nor am i oc'ing... seems like such a waste, but i only got the case because of the price was over half off (i always figured it was a price mistake)


No liquid or OC in a Primo!?!?!?!?!?!? Blasphemy!

No matter what you put in it, it's a beautiful case. One of the best I've ever owned and easily one of my faves to build in. Best of luck with the build! :thumb:


----------



## JustinThyme

MoDeNa said:


> Hi again! Finally I received all the WC stuff and I am going to rethink the loop, as JustinThyme pointed. It is not possible to fit both 480mm at the same time because I don't have space for the fittings
> 
> Finally I will be using the following:
> 
> - Top: Alphacool NexXxos XT45 360mm V2
> - Front: Alphacool NexXxos XT45 480mm V2
> - Bottom: Alphacool NexXxos XT45 360mm V2
> - Pump: 1 x Protium D5 with 200mm reservoir
> - Fans: 10 x Noctua NF A12-25 PWM in push config for the rads and 4 Noctua AF A12-25 for side room of the case (fresh air in)
> - Flow meter from Aquacomputer
> - Temp sensor
> - Aquaero 6 LT to monitor and control everything
> 
> Do you think that this setup will be enough to cool a Ryzen 3900x with one RTX 2080 Ti with fans spinning at 800rpm maximum?
> 
> Many thanks!


That should keep it cool and quiet. It also depends on clocks you want to maintain. If it all stays at stock then your fans will never need to spin up. If you do it like me they spin up a little here and there but noting atrocious unless Im dogging it with a synthetic bench mark that turns the CPU into a space heater. During normal use they rarely pass 1000 rpms. Light to moderate use about 700 rpms. Thats whats good about the aquaero. You can actually set tight curves and it maitains it with out annoyingg up and down speeds. Just make sure to use the liquid temp as your reference. I have everything using that as a reference. with a 25-32C ramp. You can make max temp higher if you aren't OCing.


----------



## hesho

bajer29 said:


> No flaming from me. I'm stock clocks (more or less) running a 4790K and 1080TI on air in a PRO M





ciarlatano said:


> No liquid or OC in a Primo!?!?!?!?!?!? Blasphemy!
> 
> No matter what you put in it, it's a beautiful case. One of the best I've ever owned and easily one of my faves to build in. Best of luck with the build! :thumb:


i kinda want to flame myself because the irony is, i flamed my friend hard for not OC'ing his intel EE CPU and mobo purchase about 8 years ago. Told him he was nuts spending a 1k cpu, 500 mobo and then a custom water loop and not OC the damn thing. He said he didn't need to since everything ran fine and to this day, he never OC'd the sucker. 

at least i now the system will be well ventilated seeing as i cannot use cool n quiet on my cpu since it makes the system unstable like crazy so the cpu will make extra heat


----------



## doyll

hesho said:


> hmmm
> 
> i never thought of that actually. I'll give them a ding. On a different note, i might get flamed for this, i'm not water cooling nor am i oc'ing... seems like such a waste, but i only got the case because of the price was over half off (i always figured it was a price mistake)


 Enthoo Primo works well air cooled. Mine was air cooled with 2x front and 1x bottom 140mm included fans as intakes, all PCIe back slot covers removed for better front to back airflow so GPU heat is moved back and out of case. I used Thermalright TRUE Spirit 140 Power cooler. It's one of the very best if not the best and is only about $50.
https://www.amazon.com/Thermalright...s=true+spirit+140+power&qid=1569512181&sr=8-1


----------



## Niju

MoDeNa said:


> Hi again! Finally I received all the WC stuff and I am going to rethink the loop, as JustinThyme pointed. It is not possible to fit both 480mm at the same time because I don't have space for the fittings
> 
> Finally I will be using the following:
> 
> - Top: Alphacool NexXxos XT45 360mm V2
> - Front: Alphacool NexXxos XT45 480mm V2
> - Bottom: Alphacool NexXxos XT45 360mm V2
> - Pump: 1 x Protium D5 with 200mm reservoir
> - Fans: 10 x Noctua NF A12-25 PWM in push config for the rads and 4 Noctua AF A12-25 for side room of the case (fresh air in)
> - Flow meter from Aquacomputer
> - Temp sensor
> - Aquaero 6 LT to monitor and control everything
> 
> Do you think that this setup will be enough to cool a Ryzen 3900x with one RTX 2080 Ti with fans spinning at 800rpm maximum?
> 
> Many thanks!


Can you fit a slim 480 in the back chamber and fans in the main while using a 480 at the front or do fittings still not fit?


----------



## MoDeNa

Niju said:


> Can you fit a slim 480 in the back chamber and fans in the main while using a 480 at the front or do fittings still not fit?


No, unfortunately you can't. If you install the radiator in the main chamber you won't have enough space for the fittings and if you install it in the back chamber you will have to drill the case, but anyway it will be very tight.


----------



## hesho

doyll said:


> Enthoo Primo works well air cooled. Mine was air cooled with 2x front and 1x bottom 140mm included fans as intakes, all PCIe back slot covers removed for better front to back airflow so GPU heat is moved back and out of case. I used Thermalright TRUE Spirit 140 Power cooler. It's one of the very best if not the best and is only about $50.
> https://www.amazon.com/Thermalright...s=true+spirit+140+power&qid=1569512181&sr=8-1


the airflow is incredible in the case. I added 2 120mm on the HD cage and an extra 140mm intake on the bottom (had extra fans lying around). Stays relatively quiet too. It works out well since it is idling at 4.1ghz because i can't turn on cool n quiet. I was thinking of oc'ing but i did read that the auto OC is pretty good so i didn't bother. I always figured i could get a better cooler later on if i wasn't satisfied with the stock but it doesn't seem that bad right now. 

On a different note, kudos to phanteks for sending me 2 new vent clips too ^^ thanks @ doyll for the suggestion


----------



## Shenhua

Guys, do you know if the p400a basic has the PSU shroud perforated like the RGB one?

Sent from my Redmi K20 Pro using Tapatalk


----------



## Krisztias

Hello Guys,

I'm joining the Club with my Luxe 2 Black


----------



## doyll

Krisztias said:


> Hello Guys,
> 
> I'm joining the Club with my Luxe 2 Black


Welcome to the group! 



Luxe 2 is a nice case and you've done a nice build.


----------



## bhoot

Krisztias said:


> Hello Guys,
> 
> I'm joining the Club with my Luxe 2 Black



Hey Krisz. Luxe2. I'm getting a Luxe2 case, upgrading from Evolv ATX 1st gen.
Exactly what part number did you order for the GPU mount?


Also, any good/bad/ things about the case now that you've got it?
How does the GPU anti-sag actually work? Cannot tell from the picture of it.


----------



## Krisztias

doyll said:


> Welcome to the group!
> 
> 
> 
> Luxe 2 is a nice case and you've done a nice build.


Thank you! 



bhoot said:


> Hey Krisz. Luxe2. I'm getting a Luxe2 case, upgrading from Evolv ATX 1st gen.
> Exactly what part number did you order for the GPU mount?
> 
> 
> Also, any good/bad/ things about the case now that you've got it?
> How does the GPU anti-sag actually work? Cannot tell from the picture of it.


Hy bhoot,

I can't tell any negatives about this case. 
I didn't installed the anti-sag, because I ordered the Phanteks Vertical GPU Kit (PH-VGPUKT_02), also this:

https://www.phanteksusa.com/collections/riser-cables/products/phanteks-vertical-gpu-kit

it's better, because it is not so close to the glass panel, the GPU can "breathe".


----------



## JustinThyme

Looking for recommendations for an X299 with smallest MOBO possible. Will be runninfg 7900X and 1080Ti for HTPC. Not looking for massive performance. Just a decent rig with a small footprint for HTPC.


----------



## ilmazzo

Regarding gpu vertical brackets.....since we are moving to pciex 4 I would like a model with a certified pciex 4 raiser, are you aware of the availability of something like that or it is just too early?


----------



## Gilles3000

JustinThyme said:


> Looking for recommendations for an X299 with smallest MOBO possible. Will be runninfg 7900X and 1080Ti for HTPC. Not looking for massive performance. Just a decent rig with a small footprint for HTPC.


Considering you're asking in the Phanteks thread and the only small footprint case they have is the Evolv Shift (X), I assume that's the case you're going with?

In that case there's only 1 motherboard to choose from:
https://www.asrock.com/mb/Intel/X299E-ITXac/


----------



## Moose-Tech

ilmazzo said:


> Regarding gpu vertical brackets.....since we are moving to pciex 4 I would like a model with a certified pciex 4 raiser, are you aware of the availability of something like that or it is just too early?


I found these on Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07B9HFVZY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1


----------



## ilmazzo

Moose-Tech said:


> I found these on Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07B9HFVZY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1


+ rep

thanks dude


----------



## JustinThyme

Gilles3000 said:


> Considering you're asking in the Phanteks thread and the only small footprint case they have is the Evolv Shift (X), I assume that's the case you're going with?
> 
> In that case there's only 1 motherboard to choose from:
> https://www.asrock.com/mb/Intel/X299E-ITXac/


Yeah thats about what I figured. Wanted to make sure I was not missing something. The baby asrock is the only thing X299 that will fit that case. Already have all the the other hardware. just need MOBO and case. Thanks for the input.


----------



## =GzR=SmokeyDevil

Phanteks P600S with the Barrow distro plate.


----------



## doyll

=GzR=SmokeyDevil said:


> Phanteks P600S with the Barrow distro plate.


Nice looking build! :thumb:


Distribution plate is definitely a nice touch.


----------



## shilka

Anyone in the club that has a Luxe 2? i was looking at the Luxe 2 for my next build early next year and i think its too big so big in fact that my PSU cables and my 30 cm SATA cables cant reach
I was going to put 4 HDD´s in the bottom and the others in the front of the case but i dont think the 30 cm SATA cables or the 8 pic EPS cable that i have can reach that far from the motherboard

Then there is the fact that the case comes with no fans which means extra costs there on top of all new PSU and SATA cables
I am starting to learn more towards the P600S as its cheaper smaller (still big enough) and i think it looks better and its probably a more quiet case than the Luxe 1 as well

Think i have worked out most of the parts for the build now i just need the funds for it which is going to take a few months


----------



## doyll

shilka said:


> Anyone in the club that has a Luxe 2? i was looking at the Luxe 2 for my next build early next year and i think its too big so big in fact that my PSU cables and my 30 cm SATA cables cant reach
> I was going to put 4 HDD´s in the bottom and the others in the front of the case but i dont think the 30 cm SATA cables or the 8 pic EPS cable that i have can reach that far from the motherboard
> 
> Then there is the fact that the case comes with no fans which means extra costs there on top of all new PSU and SATA cables
> I am starting to learn more towards the P600S as its cheaper smaller (still big enough) and i think it looks better and its probably a more quiet case than the Luxe 1 as well
> 
> Think i have worked out most of the parts for the build now i just need the funds for it which is going to take a few months


I don't have one. Looking at specs it's 5mm wider, 10mm taller and 45mm deeper. PSU sets on it's side thus raising/shortening the length to top of case so looks like normal PSU cables should reach with no problems. But 30mm SATA could be a problem depending on where they are on motherboard.
I have a dimensional drawing of case with pixel count to mm I could post if that would be of any help.


----------



## shilka

doyll said:


> I don't have one. Looking at specs it's 5mm wider, 10mm taller and 45mm deeper. PSU sets on it's side thus raising/shortening the length to top of case so looks like normal PSU cables should reach with no problems. But 30mm SATA could be a problem depending on where they are on motherboard.
> I have a dimensional drawing of case with pixel count to mm I could post if that would be of any help.


 Thank you but before you posted i decided on the P600S since its smaller and cheaper
If you have anything to add before buying i have a thread with all the parts https://www.overclock.net/forum/13-amd-general/1734830-amd-based-build-project-dreissen.html#post28163184


----------



## doyll

shilka said:


> Thank you but before you posted i decided on the P600S since its smaller and cheaper
> If you have anything to add before buying i have a thread with all the parts https://www.overclock.net/forum/13-amd-general/1734830-amd-based-build-project-dreissen.html#post28163184


I'll take a look at your thread and post up if I notice anything.


----------



## shilka

I think i got almost everything sorted out i just have one big question left and that is can you fit 4 HDD cages in the bottom of the P600S with a 170mm long PSU?
I would like to have 4 HDD´s in the bottom of the case and as few in the front of the case as possible so the front airflow is not blocked off by HDD cages and HDD´s

Another problem is how long my GPU is which means it will block the bottom front mount for HDD cages but thats not a problem if i can fit 4 in the bottom or i could buy the vertical GPU mount
The Luxe 2 has tons of space so that was never any issue but its simply too expensive a case with all the extra i need to buy for i

Edit: this build is meant as a home server/media center so the min requirements is room for at x8 HDD´s
The HDD mounts of the P600s also looks a lot better and more solid than the old Luxe 1 so i really hope all this damm vibration noise i have with the Luxe 1 will go away


----------



## doyll

shilka said:


> I think i got almost everything sorted out i just have one big question left and that is can you fit 4 HDD cages in the bottom of the P600S with a 170mm long PSU?
> I would like to have 4 HDD´s in the bottom of the case and as few in the front of the case as possible so the front airflow is not blocked off by HDD cages and HDD´s
> 
> Another problem is how long my GPU is which means it will block the bottom front mount for HDD cages but thats not a problem if i can fit 4 in the bottom or i could buy the vertical GPU mount
> The Luxe 2 has tons of space so that was never any issue but its simply too expensive a case with all the extra i need to buy for i
> 
> Edit: this build is meant as a home server/media center so the min requirements is room for at x8 HDD´s
> The HDD mounts of the P600s also looks a lot better and more solid than the old Luxe 1 so i really hope all this damm vibration noise i have with the Luxe 1 will go away


If you are leaving the PSU shroud in you could mount HDDs on both top and bottom of it as well as in bottom. I would think 3x HDDs on each surface makes a total of 9 drives. P600S only supports 2x 140mm front fans so using 120mm fanned CPU cooler uses less airflow than 140mm fanned coolers so more air is left to supply GPU. Same applies to P600S about removing all PCIe back slot covers. Even vented ones flow less than 70% as much air as open ones. Also block any opening not covered by front intake fans in fan mounting panel so all air the fans push into case has to move back and out .. not leak back in front of them.


----------



## shilka

I dont think you can remove the PSU shroud? and last i checked the P600S has room for 3x 140mm fans in the front but the bottom one will just blow air in under the PSU shroud and only the HDD will get any benefit from that

The P600S has room for up to 10 HDD´s 4 in the bottom and 6 in the front but if you have a long GPU like i have you can only have 4 in the front as the GPU blocks the bottom front mount
http://www.phanteks.com/Eclipse-P600s.html

I have 6 fans in my old Luxe 1 which is overkill so i can take some fans out of that and re-use in the P600S i was planing on removing one but i can remove more
Edit: i just ordered the P600S and two extra double HDD cages and they should show up sometime in the middle of next week

I cant tell if there is room for a 170mm long PSU with 4 HDD´s in the bottom


----------



## doyll

*doyll*



shilka said:


> I dont think you can remove the PSU shroud? and last i checked the P600S has room for 3x 140mm fans in the front but the bottom one will just blow air in under the PSU shroud and only the HDD will get any benefit from that
> 
> The P600S has room for up to 10 HDD´s 4 in the bottom and 6 in the front but if you have a long GPU like i have you can only have 4 in the front as the GPU blocks the bottom front mount
> http://www.phanteks.com/Eclipse-P600s.html
> 
> I have 6 fans in my old Luxe 1 which is overkill so i can take some fans out of that and re-use in the P600S i was planing on removing one but i can remove more
> Edit: i just ordered the P600S and two extra double HDD cages and they should show up sometime in the middle of next week
> 
> I cant tell if there is room for a 170mm long PSU with 4 HDD´s in the bottom


Probably need to drill out some pop-rivets to remove PSU shroud and I'm not sure how rigid case would be without PSU shroud. 

My bad, P600S does support 3x 140mm front fans. 

I haven't used exhaust fans in years. Good intakes (Phanteks included PH-F140SP motor & housing w/ MP impeller) don't need both intake and exhaust fans. Think of it as case having push/pull same as coolers or radiators. Adding the second fan to a pair is only good or a couple degrees difference in temps. We just need a little more exhaust vent area than we have intake (like 4x 140mm exhaust vents for 3x 140mm intakes).

Looking at that image seems 4x 3.5", may be pushing it. Please let us know when you get the case and start setting things up. Maybe consider external mount HDD case.. I know they are not cheap, but might be an alternative to having all HDDs in the case. Lower cost is using external USB3 drives. For some reason external USB HDD cost less per TB than internal 3.5's do. I'm using 2x 8TB and 2x 6TB external USB3 drives for my media and they work great. Only drawback is migrating from one drive to another drive can take 16 hours, sometimes even more depending on how many TB are being moved.


----------



## shilka

I should get the case on the 24th unless its delayed as for the rest of the parts i can either order some of them right now and the rest later or i can wait untill the 31th and order all of them
I dont have the funds for all of it at once so i would rather make one order rather than two

One possible solution to the GPU blocking the front bottom HDD mount would to buy the Phanteks vertical GPU mount and have the GPU vertical that way i dont think it will block the front bottom HDD mount but i dont know for sure

Would be much better if i can fit 4 in the bottom and then have room for the other 4 in the front otherwise it will have to be 2 in the bottom and 6 in the front

Only have 5 drives right but want to have space for 8 unless the new 18 TB and 20 TB drives that comes out in 2020 wont be super expensive which i think they will be and in that case i will buy another 16 TB

Edit 1: the card i have is 328 x 140 x 56.5 mm so can any of the P600S owners help out?
Edit 2: he is using the same PSU as i have just in another color and i think you are right i dont think there is space for the cables if you have 4 in the bottom https://youtu.be/61yd5pMItHs?t=421


----------



## usoldier

Krisztias said:


> Hello Guys,
> 
> I'm joining the Club with my Luxe 2 Black


Nice looking build m8, i have a question could the gfx card be mounted on the vertical slots next to your current vertical mount system?


----------



## shilka

This is what i want to have in my P600S but i think my GPU is too long

Also after thinking about it i think i have worked out a compromise the HDD cages can be single or dual mounted so instead of mounting 4 in the bottom i will mount 3 and the space where the 4th one would go is going to be used for PSU cables that will let me have more than 2 in the bottom AND have space for the PSU cables

I dont think that there are that many if any out there that are trying to cram so many HDD´s into a P600S as i have found zero pictures on google other than the one below


----------



## JustinThyme

shilka said:


> This is what i want to have in my P600S but i think my GPU is too long
> 
> Also after thinking about it i think i have worked out a compromise the HDD cages can be single or dual mounted so instead of mounting 4 in the bottom i will mount 3 and the space where the 4th one would go is going to be used for PSU cables that will let me have more than 2 in the bottom AND have space for the PSU cables
> 
> I dont think that there are that many if any out there that are trying to cram so many HDD´s into a P600S as i have found zero pictures on google other than the one below


Or you can skip the HDDs completely and go M2s on your MOBO and maybe a 2.5" or two mounted towards the top in the bottom or in the back. No where for WC with any HDDs install like this photo shows.

I like this example better.


----------



## =GzR=SmokeyDevil

Interesting discussion regarding mounting of HDD's in the P600S.
From my playing around with my build in the case, the most comfortable setup with HHD's is 2x in the bottom. 
You will not be able to comfortably fit two HDD cages in the bottom without a shorter PSU. Even then, you'll still be running into issues of with just getting connectors plugged in and etc.
If you must use this case and need to put in a bunch of HHD's, then there are the trays that you can use in the main compartment, as shown in the manual:


----------



## shilka

=GzR=SmokeyDevil said:


> Interesting discussion regarding mounting of HDD's in the P600S.
> From my playing around with my build in the case, the most comfortable setup with HHD's is 2x in the bottom.
> You will not be able to comfortably fit two HDD cages in the bottom without a shorter PSU. Even then, you'll still be running into issues of with just getting connectors plugged in and etc.
> If you must use this case and need to put in a bunch of HHD's, then there are the trays that you can use in the main compartment, as shown in the manual:


I have 5 HDD´s right now and i think i will add another one so thats 6 and if i can only have 2 in the bottom because of the PSU and only 4 in the front because of my long GPU then what was the point of the P600S i might as well re-use my old Luxe 1 and in fact i am considering doing that and moving the old parts into the P600S instead

I want space for 8 HDD´s and if the Luxe 2 is the only case that will let me do that then i will wait a few months and to save up and buy new cables and fans and a Luxe 2

Now like i said before a compromise could be to have 3 in the bottom if i can do that or maybe i can fit 6 in the front by having the GPU vertically mounted but since its 32,8 cm long i think its too long even vertically

Edit: as for the PSU cables what i was going to do was leave all the cables plugged in from the system i have now and just move it with all the cables plugged in since its way easier that way and i am too lazy to pull them out and plug them in again


----------



## ciarlatano

shilka said:


> I have 5 HDD´s right now and i think i will add another one so thats 6 and if i can only have 2 in the bottom because of the PSU and only 4 in the front because of my long GPU then what was the point of the P600S i might as well re-use my old Luxe 1 and in fact i am considering doing that and moving the old parts into the P600S instead
> 
> I want space for 8 HDD´s and if the Luxe 2 is the only case that will let me do that then i will wait a few months and to save up and buy new cables and fans and a Luxe 2
> 
> Now like i said before a compromise could be to have 3 in the bottom if i can do that or maybe i can fit 6 in the front by having the GPU vertically mounted but since its 32,8 cm long i think its too long even vertically
> 
> Edit: as for the PSU cables what i was going to do was leave all the cables plugged in from the system i have now and just move it with all the cables plugged in since its way easier that way and i am too lazy to pull them out and plug them in again


I know you have always used a lot of storage. I've probably asked you before, but, is there a reason you don't do any in an external enclosure? For me, moving mechanicals with data I don't often use to an external was a huge difference in terms of noise. I'm also only putting hours on the drives when I actually need the data, so the external only gets powered a couple of hours a week.


----------



## shilka

I have dopped the P600S and canceled my order and i am going with the Luxe 2 instead

Rather than buying 6 more Phanteks PH-140MP fans for the Luxe 2 which i dont have the funds for i am going to re-use all of the ones i have in my Luxe 1 now and buy 4 of the redux Noctua NF-P14 fans and put in the Luxe 1 as replacement and they should be good enough

Still have to buy 6x 60cm SATA cables from CableMod which is the reason why i dont have the funds for another 6 Phanteks PH-140MP fans which i have to import from Germany as they dont sell them in Denmark so they are double the price of the redux NF-P14

As for external storage i dislike that and would rather have them internally since i actually use all of the drives on a daily basis and having the drives on and off like i would for my use case would put too much wear on them

Edit: i could buy 6 NF-P14 dedux fans and use in the Luxe 2 as that mean i could leave the Phanteks MP-140MP fans in the Luxe 1 which would save lot of work as i dont have to take the fans out of the Luxe 1 and put in the Luxe 2


----------



## doyll

shilka said:


> I have 5 HDD´s right now and i think i will add another one so thats 6 and if i can only have 2 in the bottom because of the PSU and only 4 in the front because of my long GPU then what was the point of the P600S i might as well re-use my old Luxe 1 and in fact i am considering doing that and moving the old parts into the P600S instead
> 
> I want space for 8 HDD´s and if the Luxe 2 is the only case that will let me do that then i will wait a few months and to save up and buy new cables and fans and a Luxe 2
> 
> Now like i said before a compromise could be to have 3 in the bottom if i can do that or maybe i can fit 6 in the front by having the GPU vertically mounted but since its 32,8 cm long i think its too long even vertically
> 
> Edit: as for the PSU cables what i was going to do was leave all the cables plugged in from the system i have now and just move it with all the cables plugged in since its way easier that way and i am too lazy to pull them out and plug them in again


Could top radiator mounting panel could be modified to hold a couple HDDs? Maybe mount a couple in front half/two thirds of radiator tray and least about 140mm vent area near the back? How many HDDs does motherboard suport? I'm too lazy to look.


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## shilka

doyll said:


> Could top radiator mounting panel could be modified to hold a couple HDDs? Maybe mount a couple in front half/two thirds of radiator tray and least about 140mm vent area near the back? How many HDDs does motherboard suport? I'm too lazy to look.


I have dropped the P600S and will be going with the Luxe 2 instead the P600S is a nice case but its too cramped for all the stuff i want to have in it

As for my new motherboard it has x8 SATA ports but you can buy PCI-E boards with 4 to 8 more ports and have even seen a 10 or maybe it was a 12 port one

See my last post if you missed it


----------



## doyll

shilka said:


> I have dropped the P600S and will be going with the Luxe 2 instead the P600S is a nice case but its too cramped for all the stuff i want to have in it
> 
> As for my new motherboard it has x8 SATA ports but you can buy PCI-E boards with 4 to 8 more ports and have even seen a 12 port one
> 
> See my last post if you missed it


Yeah, I missed it. 

You replaced the stock fans in your Luxe 1 with PH-F140MP fans? I ask because case fans with MP impeller are PH-F140SP housing and 1300rpm variable voltage motor while PH-F140MP has 1600rpm PWM motor.

I prefer the PH-F140MP to NF-P14 redux. What do be quiet! Silent Wings 3 PWM High Speed cost there?

Will be interesting to see if you need 60cm SATA cables. I could be able to buy some 60cm SATA cable here in UK and send them over if that would help. They are so small and light the shipping cost wouldn't be much. OcUK sells PH-F140MP 2-pack for £16.26. Maybe you could find a deal like that.


----------



## shilka

doyll said:


> Yeah, I missed it.
> 
> You replaced the stock fans in your Luxe 1 with PH-F140MP fans? I ask because case fans with MP impeller are PH-F140SP housing and 1300rpm variable voltage motor while PH-F140MP has 1600rpm PWM motor.
> 
> I prefer the PH-F140MP to NF-P14 redux. What do be quiet! Silent Wings 3 PWM High Speed cost there?
> 
> Will be interesting to see if you need 60cm SATA cables. I could be able to buy some 60cm SATA cable here in UK and send them over if that would help. They are so small and light the shipping cost wouldn't be much. OcUK sells PH-F140MP 2-pack for £16.26. Maybe you could find a deal like that.


I already ordered the 60 cm SATA cables from CableMod i am not sure if i need them but i would rather have them on hand then need them and have to delay the whole build and with the plan on having 4 HDD´s in the bottom of the Luxe 2 i am pretty sure i will need them and if i dont at least i have more SATA cables

As for fans if you know any good PWM fan options below 150 kr per fan you are very welcome to look
https://www.computersalg.dk/

As for the fans in the Luxe 1 i have the 4 stock fans that came with the case and i have 2 PH-140MP i imported from Germany

Edit 1: the Phanteks PH-F140SP are 188 kr per fan here and the Be Quiet! SilentWings 3 PWM are 186 kr
https://www.computersalg.dk/i/1281795/phanteks-ph-f140sp-computer-kabinet?sq=Phanteks 140mm
https://www.computersalg.dk/i/1757424/be-quiet-silentwings-3-pwm?sq=Be Quiet! SilentWings 3 PWM


Edit 2: went over the numbers again and it looks like i can go up to 200 kr per fan so 1200 kr max for 6 fans and the Be Quiet! SilentWings 3 PWM and the Phanteks PH-F140SP are both around 185-190 kr


----------



## doyll

shilka said:


> I already ordered the 60 cm SATA cables from CableMod i am not sure if i need them but i would rather have them on hand then need them and have to delay the whole build and with the plan on having 4 HDD´s in the bottom of the Luxe 2 i am pretty sure i will need them and if i dont at least i have more SATA cables
> 
> As for fans if you know any good PWM fan options below 150 kr per fan you are very welcome to look
> https://www.computersalg.dk/
> 
> As for the fans in the Luxe 1 i have the 4 stock fans that came with the case and i have 2 PH-140MP i imported from Germany
> 
> Edit: the Phanteks PH-F140SP are 188 kr per fan and i cant spend that much otherwise i have will have to start with 4 fans and buy 2 more later
> 
> https://www.computersalg.dk/i/1281795/phanteks-ph-f140sp-computer-kabinet?sq=Phanteks 140mm


 Wow, things are expensive there. No PH-F140MP even listed and Silent Wings 3 140mm are 173,00 to 188,00. I understand why you went with NF-P14 fans. My cost for PH-F140MP 2-pack from Overclocker.co.uk is £16.26. OcUK is owned by CaseKing in Germany. Quick currency conversion says £16.26 is 140.996 DDK .. that make them 70.498 DDK each here. No idea what it would cost to ship some to you but a good chance it would be less than you are paying for fans.
Which impeller do your Luxe 1 case fans have? Original SP/XP impeller or MP impeller? The MP have a lower CFM rating but higher static pressure rating so end result is more airflow in user applications.


----------



## shilka

Made an edit after you posted so check that as for the stock Luxe 1 fans its the black fans that comes with the TG Luxe not the white framed ones from the earlier Luxe 1

Could you give me a link to that UK site it might be cheaper than Computersalg or Amazon.de


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## doyll

shilka said:


> Made an edit after you posted so check that as for the stock Luxe 1 fans its the black fans that comes with the TG Luxe not the white framed ones from the earlier Luxe 1
> 
> Could you give me a link to that UK site it might be cheaper than Computersalg or Amazon.de


 Link to Overclockers is: 
https://www.overclockers.co.uk/
I get free shipping so if their shipping cost is too high and you know the weight of total package we could check out how much it would cost for me to receive order and ship on to you. Just a thought.


be quiet! Silent Wings 3 140mm PWM High Speed is what I would get unless you order something like the PH-F140MP 2-packs. Silent Wings 3 are pretty much considered the best fans out.


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## shilka

Its 924 kr for 6 PH-140MP fans and shipping from overclockers which is about 200 less than the Be Quiet and Phanteks fans from computersalg

Its 1028 kr from Amazon.de but thats with very fast shipping so i dont mind the extra 104 kr https://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B016NHRIU8/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A133RA3ZUAU4I7&psc=1

Edit: shipping from overclockers is £23 from the UK to Denmark and i think i would rather order from Amazon.de


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## Krisztias

usoldier said:


> Nice looking build m8, i have a question could the gfx card be mounted on the vertical slots next to your current vertical mount system?


Thank You!
It could be mounted, but I think the glass is to close to "breathe" the card correctly, if you don't have a waterblock on it.


----------



## doyll

shilka said:


> Its 924 kr for 6 PH-140MP fans and shipping from overclockers which is about 200 less than the Be Quiet and Phanteks fans from computersalg
> 
> Its 1028 kr from Amazon.de but thats with very fast shipping so i dont mind the extra 104 kr https://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B016NHRIU8/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A133RA3ZUAU4I7&psc=1
> 
> Edit: shipping from overclockers is £23 from the UK to Denmark and i think i would rather order from Amazon.de



That is ordering 3x PH-F140MP 2-packs? The 2-pack price makes it £8.13 per fan. 6x fans shipping for £23 adds 3.83 to each fan making them £11.96 each in your hands or about 13.91€, but that is blk/wte fans, not blk/blk. Amazon.de price is 19,54€ blk/wte and 20,26€ blk/blk. Maybe it's worth 8.30€ more per fan to have them all black, so an extra 49.80€ for 6 fans wiht black impellers. To me that is a lot of money just for black impellers on fans. I have several PH-F140SP out of a Primo build I replaced fans with TY-147 SQ fans. Never mind, they have white impellers too.


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## shilka

Edit: never mind i just ordered 4 of these from E-Joker
https://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B016NHRIU8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I am going to take the two i already bought out of the Luxe 1 and put in the Luxe 2 together with the 4 new ones
Buying 4 and re-using 2 old ones was cheaper than buying 6 new ones

Thats SATA cables and case fans out of the way and ordered 
So whats left to order is the case the motherboard CPU RAM CPU cooler and i will probably need some PWM fan extension cables as well


----------



## doyll

shilka said:


> Edit: never mind i just ordered 4 of these from E-Joker
> https://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B016NHRIU8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
> 
> I am going to take the two i already bought out of the Luxe 1 and put in the Luxe 2 together with the 4 new ones
> Buying 4 and re-using 2 old ones was cheaper than buying 6 new ones
> 
> Thats SATA cables and case fans out of the way and ordered
> So whats left to order is the case the motherboard CPU RAM CPU cooler and i will probably need some PWM fan extension cables as well


Sorry, link is to their website, here is link to 2-pack of PH-F140MP fans:
https://www.overclockers.co.uk/two-...140mm-fan-radiator-performance-bu-003-pt.html


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## shilka

Ordered the Luxe 2 the HDD cages and a 3 pack Noctua PWM cable extension pack but no idea when the SATA cables and case fans will show up
The rest of the parts will have to wait untill november


----------



## JustinThyme

shilka said:


> I have dropped the P600S and will be going with the Luxe 2 instead the P600S is a nice case but its too cramped for all the stuff i want to have in it
> 
> As for my new motherboard it has x8 SATA ports but you can buy PCI-E boards with 4 to 8 more ports and have even seen a 10 or maybe it was a 12 port one
> 
> See my last post if you missed it


Or ditch the SATA and go to Nvme. 500MB/S sequential on sata where with any board you can get a sammy to push out 3700MB/S. 
I run two sammy 2.5 850EVO 1TB in raid zero for storage and thats the jest of that. Everything else is Nvme and only spinners I own are the 6 7200 8TB drives in my NAS but still use a 500GGB Nvme as a cache. Ive contemplated the Sammy 2TB Nvme and may pick up a pair of those eventually. ATM the 970 EVO+ 2TB are running about $400.


----------



## shilka

JustinThyme said:


> Or ditch the SATA and go to Nvme. 500MB/S sequential on sata where with any board you can get a sammy to push out 3700MB/S.
> I run two sammy 2.5 850EVO 1TB in raid zero for storage and thats the jest of that. Everything else is Nvme and only spinners I own are the 6 7200 8TB drives in my NAS but still use a 500GGB Nvme as a cache. Ive contemplated the Sammy 2TB Nvme and may pick up a pair of those eventually. ATM the 970 EVO+ 2TB are running about $400.


I have stated multiple times that i have 5 HDD´s 2x 12 TB 2x 14 TB and a 16 TB and thats what i have and i use and those use SATA ports and SATA cables
Please tell me where i can get the same amount of storage with M.2 NVME? oh thats right you cant it does not exist not even SATA SSD´s goes beyond 4 TB as far as i know

I dont need speed i need MASSIVE amount of storage and right now i have 61,7 TB and the two 12 TB and one of the 14 TB are getting full so i will either need to replace them with 18 or 20 TB next year or buy one or two 16 TB and move stuff around

Hitting 80 TB is not something that is unreasonable for me and drives takes up physical space which is why i need a big case and the only case that fits the bill is the Luxe 2 which has space for up to 12 HDD´s so if i have to buy longer SATA which i already have by the way thats the way it has to be

Edit: i think there is only a handful of people around on OCN that has as much or more storage than me and the other one i have seen has 23 drives 
https://www.overclock.net/forum/221-servers/1641735-ok-so-who-needs-50-66tb-server.html
https://www.overclock.net/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=212146&d=1534256541

Look at how much space that takes up my 5 HDD setup is tiny compared
And last i do have an NVME SSD a Corsair Force MP510 1,92 TB which i use for OS and games


----------



## JustinThyme

shilka said:


> I have stated multiple times that i have 5 HDD´s 2x 12 TB 2x 14 TB and a 16 TB and thats what i have and i use and those use SATA ports and SATA cables
> Please tell me where i can get the same amount of storage with M.2 NVME? oh thats right you cant it does not exist not even SATA SSD´s goes beyond 4 TB as far as i know
> 
> I dont need speed i need MASSIVE amount of storage and right now i have 61,7 TB and the two 12 TB and one of the 14 TB are getting full so i will either need to replace them with 18 or 20 TB next year or buy one or two 16 TB and move stuff around
> 
> Hitting 80 TB is not something that is unreasonable for me and drives takes up physical space which is why i need a big case and the only case that fits the bill is the Luxe 2 which has space for up to 12 HDD´s so if i have to buy longer SATA which i already have by the way thats the way it has to be
> 
> Edit: i think there is only a handful of people around on OCN that has as much or more storage than me and the other one i have seen has 24 drives
> https://www.overclock.net/forum/221-servers/1641735-ok-so-who-needs-50-66tb-server.html
> https://www.overclock.net/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=212146&d=1534256541
> 
> Look at how much space that takes up my 5 HDD setup is tiny compared
> And last i do have an NVME SSD a Corsair Force MP510 1,92 TB which i use for OS and games


No need to get your panties in a wad, I dont read every post in this thread. Is the space an epeen thing? There are alternatives for massive amounts of storage other than putting antiquated equipment in a case too small for it. I refer to mine as a 12 bay NAS. 

Good luck with your build!


----------



## doyll

shilka said:


> I have stated multiple times that i have 5 HDD´s 2x 12 TB 2x 14 TB and a 16 TB and thats what i have and i use and those use SATA ports and SATA cables
> Please tell me where i can get the same amount of storage with M.2 NVME? oh thats right you cant it does not exist not even SATA SSD´s goes beyond 4 TB as far as i know
> 
> I dont need speed i need MASSIVE amount of storage and right now i have 61,7 TB and the two 12 TB and one of the 14 TB are getting full so i will either need to replace them with 18 or 20 TB next year or buy one or two 16 TB and move stuff around
> 
> Hitting 80 TB is not something that is unreasonable for me and drives takes up physical space which is why i need a big case and the only case that fits the bill is the Luxe 2 which has space for up to 12 HDD´s so if i have to buy longer SATA which i already have by the way thats the way it has to be
> 
> Edit: i think there is only a handful of people around on OCN that has as much or more storage than me and the other one i have seen has 24 drives
> https://www.overclock.net/forum/221-servers/1641735-ok-so-who-needs-50-66tb-server.html
> https://www.overclock.net/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=212146&d=1534256541
> 
> Look at how much space that takes up my 5 HDD setup is tiny compared
> And last i do have an NVME SSD a Corsair Force MP510 1,92 TB which i use for OS and games


When I say that post I wonder what planet author was on. 
I know @Lady Fitzgerald has alot of storage and backup, but I don't remember how much.
Look forward to seeing your build.


----------



## shilka

doyll said:


> When I say that post I wonder what planet author was on.
> I know @*Lady Fitzgerald* has alot of storage and backup, but I don't remember how much.
> Look forward to seeing your build.


 I cant recall but i think those 23 drives are 4 TB so 3,6 TB times 23 is 82,8 TB which is 21,1 TB more than i have but all those drives takes a up a lot more space
Its going to take a while before i have money for more drives so thats planed for some time next year

The Luxe 2 the HDD cages and the PWM cables should show up on the 28th which is next monday but no idea on the fans and cables and knowing CableMod it can takes as much as 3 weeks sometimes so the whole build might be delayed untill the SATA cables show up

There is store on the other side of the road that has 60cm SATA cables but at 129 kr per cable for some plactic el cheapo cables is a ripoff
On the other hand i dont need all 5 drives at once so i could buy one plactic cable to use untill the CableMod cables show up

I am going to make a build log thread one of these days


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## Lady Fitzgerald

doyll said:


> When I say that post I wonder what planet author was on.
> I know @Lady Fitzgerald has alot of storage and backup, but I don't remember how much.
> Look forward to seeing your build.


I have only 20TB of data storage (before formatting) consisting of five 4TB SSDs (Samsung 860 Pros) and 80TB of backup space (again, before formatting) consisting of twenty 4TB Samsung 850 EVOs (each data drive has a set of four backup drives: tow of each set are onsite backups and the other two are offsite backups).

Edit: I forgot to mention the 2TB Samsung 850 EVO in one of my notebooks (and the two 2TB 850 EVO backup drives; the data on the notebook is already on a desktop drive so only two backups are needed), the 2TB 860 Pro on another notebook (and it's two 2TB 860 EVO backups). I also have half a dozen retired 500GB 850 EVOs.


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## shilka

Dont know how but i missed that you can buy a vertical GPU mount for the Luxe 2
http://www.phanteks.com/PH-VGPUKT.html

Its 349 kr so its not a huge amount and it could be cool to look at and prevent the card from sagging
https://www.computersalg.dk/i/5056709/grafikkortholder-phanteks-vertical?sq=PH-VGPU

Is there any reason not to mount it vertically?
Look at this setup Bitwit made

https://youtu.be/ll1SXOqk4ow?t=439


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## bhoot

Miscommunication & we get emotional. Calm reet dhoon laddies. So some people are high on SATA or NMVE. And? Read this thread and just laughed. Ask question. Get answer. Don't like answer. Guide the people. This is a For-um, as in this is 'for'...wait for it...um I don't know, let me ask. 

Sent from my SM-G975F using Tapatalk


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## JustinThyme

shilka said:


> Dont know how but i missed that you can buy a vertical GPU mount for the Luxe 2
> http://www.phanteks.com/PH-VGPUKT.html
> 
> Its 349 kr so its not a huge amount and it could be cool to look at and prevent the card from sagging
> https://www.computersalg.dk/i/5056709/grafikkortholder-phanteks-vertical?sq=PH-VGPU
> 
> Is there any reason not to mount it vertically?
> Look at this setup Bitwit made
> 
> https://youtu.be/ll1SXOqk4ow?t=439


Yes they have a vertical mount kit. The only issues Ive heard of is some users PCIE extention cables overheated and let the magic smoke out. My Enthoo Elite came with one in the case. Been running it with shielded extensions for about a year now with no issues. Some claim degradation of signal and issues but nothing to back the theory up. Mine work great even with two 2080Tis mounted. Machine is sig.


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## shilka

I am not going to bother if there is a risk of the PCI-E cables burning seems like extra work costs and risk for something that just looks cool
The cost for the bracket went up overnight on computersalg and i am not paying what they are asking so its gone


----------



## doyll

shilka said:


> Dont know how but i missed that you can buy a vertical GPU mount for the Luxe 2
> http://www.phanteks.com/PH-VGPUKT.html
> 
> Its 349 kr so its not a huge amount and it could be cool to look at and prevent the card from sagging
> https://www.computersalg.dk/i/5056709/grafikkortholder-phanteks-vertical?sq=PH-VGPU
> 
> Is there any reason not to mount it vertically?
> Look at this setup Bitwit made
> 
> https://youtu.be/ll1SXOqk4ow?t=439



Vertical mounts used to be problematic, but Phanteks vertical mount seems to work well. At least I haven't heard of anyone who had problems with one. But really using is adding another set of connections that might eventually cause problems. KISS (Keep It Simple Stupid) principle is often the best way to go. Kinda like going custom H2O loop instead of air cooler. Yeah it cools a little better and maybe a little quieter but it is more money and requires more maintance. So even though I could go H2O at no cost I run air cooling.


----------



## shilka

doyll said:


> Vertical mounts used to be problematic, but Phanteks vertical mount seems to work well. At least I haven't heard of anyone who had problems with one. But really using is adding another set of connections that might eventually cause problems. KISS (Keep It Simple Stupid) principle is often the best way to go. Kinda like going custom H2O loop instead of air cooler. Yeah it cools a little better and maybe a little quieter but it is more money and requires more maintance. So even though I could go H2O at no cost I run air cooling.


 Already dropped the idea because as you said keep it simple and the bracket went way up in price overnight and i would rather spend the money on games at the next steam sale rather than a cool looking gimmick

CableMod shipped the cables but i am not sure if if they will get here in time for the build so i found this
https://www.av-cables.dk/sata-600-kabel/delock-sata-600-kabel-roed-70-cm.html

Maybe i should buy a single one to have i case the CableMod ones dont show up on time its not like 25 kr is a ton of money
The shop on the other side of the road wanted 129 kr for a 60cm one

Or i could just copy the important stuff to the SSD and wait hooking up the HDD´s untill the cables show up
All the 30cm cables are fine for drives mounted in the front of the case but they cant reach down to the bottom mounts because of big the Luxe 2 is which is fine thats the point of the case

Edit: speaking about cables i forgot to order an 8 pin EPS extension cable so i ordered a Phanteks one from Amazon
Forgot about that


----------



## JustinThyme

shilka said:


> I am not going to bother if there is a risk of the PCI-E cables burning seems like extra work costs and risk for something that just looks cool
> The cost for the bracket went up overnight on computersalg and i am not paying what they are asking so its gone


Theres a risk of PCIE slots burning too. Ive seen more of that than the cables and either is at or begins with the connection point.


----------



## shilka

Made a build log instead of posting every single update here
https://www.overclock.net/forum/18082-builds-logs-case-mods/1735156-project-dreissen.html

Doyll like i already knew 30 cm SATA cables cant reach down to the bottom of the Luxe 2 at least not for the bottom most HDD the cable is like 5-6 cm too short but the ones above might be able to reach with 30cm so maybe it was overkill to buy 6x 60cm

The two bottom most mounted 140mm fans in the Luxe 2 cant reach the fan hub either but i fixed that problem with a PWM splitter instead of the 30 cm PWM cable extensions since they where only a few cm too short and i assume splitter is not a big problem?


----------



## flyinion

Hi guys, joining the club with an Enthoo Luxe 2 in Anthracite. Just showed up yesterday and will be moving my stuff into it in the next few days. Trying to figure out the best way to vertical mount my 2080 Super FTW3 hydro copper. Would really like to use that 3 slot mount built into the case so I don't tie up all the PCIE slots with the bracket, but can't think of a way to support the card on the bottom that won't interfere potentially putting fans and/or radiators in the bottom of the case later on. The card weighs like 3lb's and EVGA told it me it was highly not recommended to mount it just via the PCIE bracket which is connected with 5 small screws and leaving it hanging in mid-air like that. I found some anti-sag stands on Amazon, one is about 11" tall and should work, just not sure how it will look or if there's gonna be an issue down the road if I want to put something in the bottom. What do you guys think? Really wanting to vertical mount this card since it has the nice illuminated water block on it from the factory.


----------



## ilmazzo

JustinThyme said:


> Yes they have a vertical mount kit. The only issues Ive heard of is some users PCIE extention cables overheated and let the magic smoke out. My Enthoo Elite came with one in the case. Been running it with shielded extensions for about a year now with no issues. Some claim degradation of signal and issues but nothing to back the theory up. Mine work great even with two 2080Tis mounted. Machine is sig.


wut?!?!?

Anyway I'm waiting for a pciex 4 version of the vertical gpu kit of phanteks, dunno want to be the tester for a chinese-perfect-guaranteed stuff on ebay after spending more then 50€ for a piece of bent metal and a cable....


----------



## bhoot

Luxe 2 in line serial D5s, 280mm and 420mm Rads. Testing in progress. Survived one leak and stupid design of Alphacool's light tower crap meant slight change to layout.









Sent from my SM-G975F using Tapatalk


----------



## bhoot

flyinion said:


> Hi guys, joining the club with an Enthoo Luxe 2 in Anthracite. Just showed up yesterday and will be moving my stuff into it in the next few days. Trying to figure out the best way to vertical mount my 2080 Super FTW3 hydro copper. Would really like to use that 3 slot mount built into the case so I don't tie up all the PCIE slots with the bracket, but can't think of a way to support the card on the bottom that won't interfere potentially putting fans and/or radiators in the bottom of the case later on. The card weighs like 3lb's and EVGA told it me it was highly not recommended to mount it just via the PCIE bracket which is connected with 5 small screws and leaving it hanging in mid-air like that. I found some anti-sag stands on Amazon, one is about 11" tall and should work, just not sure how it will look or if there's gonna be an issue down the road if I want to put something in the bottom. What do you guys think? Really wanting to vertical mount this card since it has the nice illuminated water block on it from the factory.


For under GPU support get the stick GPU supports. You can then place this on the floor of the case and provide support from the bottom.
There is wiggle room on floor fan mounts to play with positioning to get this all into place. 

Sent from my SM-G975F using Tapatalk


----------



## flyinion

bhoot said:


> For under GPU support get the stick GPU supports. You can then place this on the floor of the case and provide support from the bottom.
> There is wiggle room on floor fan mounts to play with positioning to get this all into place.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G975F using Tapatalk


Thanks, I've ordered this https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B079HSVSLR/ well technically re-ordered since I originally tried to use one with the vertical mount in the H500M case I'm getting rid of but it just wasn't going to work out in there so I sent it back. So I have that stand, the 220mm Phanteks premium cable, along with their vertical PCIE bracket. So I have options and will figure it out then send whatever's left back. 

Yeah I can see there's lots of options on where to place a stand, I was just more worried that if I try to put a rad or fans down there then the stand would no longer work. Guessing fans might be ok if I got it on the edges of the frame between two of them so it has a place to sit without interfering with the blade movement but I'd for sure have to do push/pull if I put something down there since I can't set it directly on the rad.


----------



## bhoot

flyinion said:


> Thanks, I've ordered this https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B079HSVSLR/ well technically re-ordered since I originally tried to use one with the vertical mount in the H500M case I'm getting rid of but it just wasn't going to work out in there so I sent it back. So I have that stand, the 220mm Phanteks premium cable, along with their vertical PCIE bracket. So I have options and will figure it out then send whatever's left back.
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah I can see there's lots of options on where to place a stand, I was just more worried that if I try to put a rad or fans down there then the stand would no longer work. Guessing fans might be ok if I got it on the edges of the frame between two of them so it has a place to sit without interfering with the blade movement but I'd for sure have to do push/pull if I put something down there since I can't set it directly on the rad.


Even if you installed a 360 Rad on the floor, you cod still put the GPU stick stand on the floor. You could wedge it in or you could buy the EKWB spider mount for 120mm fan, install this on the Rad or fan on the floor, then screw the spider stand and place the stick support in this. There are options. 

Sent from my SM-G975F using Tapatalk


----------



## flyinion

bhoot said:


> Even if you installed a 360 Rad on the floor, you cod still put the GPU stick stand on the floor. You could wedge it in or you could buy the EKWB spider mount for 120mm fan, install this on the Rad or fan on the floor, then screw the spider stand and place the stick support in this. There are options.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G975F using Tapatalk


Nice thanks for the tip on that. Had no idea something like that existed


----------



## bhoot

Anyone got any tips on how to manage Corsair flat PSU cables? No budget for sleeved ones. 
Metal flap at the back is also next to useless. 

Also. Luxe 2 case is way too small on the back. How the in the unicorns gonads are you suppose to fit a few RGB hubs and have you seen the size of the corsair commander pro? Not cool. 

Sent from my SM-G975F using Tapatalk


----------



## lb_felipe

Why did Pahnteks change the name of its Luxe 2 to Enthoo 719?


----------



## bhoot

lb_felipe said:


> Why did Pahnteks change the name of its Luxe 2 to Enthoo 719?


719 = number of cases owners who realised crap cable management after building the PC. Probably. 

Sent from my SM-G975F using Tapatalk


----------



## shilka

I have a problem with my Luxe 2 the RGB header that comes out of the case is a 3 pin but the headers on the motherboard is 4 pin so it cant fit
How do you hook it up? is there an adaptor i overlooked somewhere?

The Luxe 2 by the way does have crappy cable management in some areas and the only way i could get the 8 pin EPS cable plugged into the motherboard was to remove the top of the case and remove the 140mm fan mounted above it otherwise there was zero room to work with


----------



## doyll

lb_felipe said:


> Why did Pahnteks change the name of its Luxe 2 to Enthoo 719?


Good question. Hadn't noticed the change. I'll try and find out.




shilka said:


> I have a problem with my Luxe 2 the RGB header that comes out of the case is a 3 pin but the headers on the motherboard is 4 pin so it cant fit
> How do you hook it up? is there an adaptor i overlooked somewhere?
> 
> The Luxe 2 by the way does have crappy cable management in some areas and the only way i could get the 8 pin EPS cable plugged into the motherboard was to remove the top of the case and remove the 140mm fan mounted above it otherwise there was zero room to work with


 Would the Phanteks RGB LED adapter solve problem?
This cable











With these connecters







http://www.phanteks.com/PH-CB_RGB4P.html


----------



## shilka

doyll said:


> Would the Phanteks RGB LED adapter solve problem?
> This cable
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With these connecters
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.phanteks.com/PH-CB_RGB4P.html


You are talking about this right?
https://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B01BZIBJAK/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A133RA3ZUAU4I7&psc=1

I have already spent way too much on this build and if i have to spend even more on an adaptor i am getting annoyed

You can change the color of the case on the front of the case from what i understand and since i just need a single static color it seems like its throwing money out the window just so you can control the case colors from the Asus Aura software

Canceled the Phanteks LED strips as well since they also use the stupid 3 pin system that wont fit the 4 pin motherboard headers


----------



## JustinThyme

shilka said:


> I have a problem with my Luxe 2 the RGB header that comes out of the case is a 3 pin but the headers on the motherboard is 4 pin so it cant fit
> How do you hook it up? is there an adaptor i overlooked somewhere?
> 
> The Luxe 2 by the way does have crappy cable management in some areas and the only way i could get the 8 pin EPS cable plugged into the motherboard was to remove the top of the case and remove the 140mm fan mounted above it otherwise there was zero room to work with


3 pin=addressable 5V
4 pin=standard as in they all light one color at a time 12V
Never the twain shall meet. Plug in addressable to 4 pin header and there goes those LEDs and possibly motherboard controller too.

I took the other route, set mother board to static as it only effects the mother board and everything else on Corsair IQue which the phanteks will plug in to with a little snipping on the connector. I have a lot off channels so I went with....

Corsair commander pro which I use the fan headers for case fans only, rad fans go through aquaero 6




This has two lighting channels that go to a downstream rgb fan hub with 6 connections. I use 4 per hub.
Commander pro 
https://www.amazon.com/Corsair-Fan-...s=corsair+commander+pro&qid=1572715627&sr=8-2
Then two of the expansion kits to plug into the USB ports off of the commander pro

https://www.amazon.com/Corsair-CO-8...936XHHN2DHF&psc=1&refRID=F8Q82GK53936XHHN2DHF

https://www.amazon.com/CORSAIR-CL-9...1ACKTHJ65D1&psc=1&refRID=7XQE8Q0ET1ACKTHJ65D1

You can use the fan hubs as well, I didnt because they have the same hysterisis problem as motherboards. I run tight curves on the loop with low of 28C and high of 32C. Aquaero is the only thing Ive found that can maintain that with constant annoying up and down ramping. The others work OK if you let your loop temp go past 40C which I do not as that puts devices with a 15C delta at 55C. Nothing runs that hot except my CPU under full load. VRMs live right at 32-34C no matter what I throw at it and GPUs 30C idle and 42-45C loaded all this is depenedent on keeping my loop temp down.

I know this is not within your budgetary contraints as you are not liking spending more on your build but an alternative should you hit the lottery. 

Works very well in my Enthoo Elite. This is old photo. have added 8 sticks of the Cosrsiar Dominator platinum RGB and changed GPU blocks to Heatkiller Pro VI. About to take out res to add 3rd D5 to bottom. Aquacomputer Next that speed is controllable via aquabus 
https://modmymods.com/aquacomputer-d5-next-rgb-41118.html


----------



## bhoot

shilka said:


> I have a problem with my Luxe 2 the RGB header that comes out of the case is a 3 pin but the headers on the motherboard is 4 pin so it cant fit
> How do you hook it up? is there an adaptor i overlooked somewhere?
> 
> The Luxe 2 by the way does have crappy cable management in some areas and the only way i could get the 8 pin EPS cable plugged into the motherboard was to remove the top of the case and remove the 140mm fan mounted above it otherwise there was zero room to work with


Shika. The case RGB has 3 cables. One sata for power. One RGB with the thick black base and attached to that same cable is a split cable. You can connect the one or the other for RGB. Personally, did not use the case or MSI RGB as they don't work with Corsair commander pro and my mobo is not RGB enabled. There is a USA base ebay seller who sells RGB 12v to 5v adapter, personally decided against it due to cable management issues and there is enough lights with 11 case fans in total all Corsair LLs. An alternative to consider is Coolermaster RGB hub for 12v or Akasa do a hub thing as well. There is also an Aquero hub that can do something similar but could not find the manual online for it to look into it. Budget wise, after 11 RGB fans, have enough that the kids are happy.

Sent from my SM-G975F using Tapatalk


----------



## shilka

Right now the whole project has gone down the crapper as the motherboard has stopped working and all i get is an error saying USB over current status detected the system will shut down in 15 seconds

All i did was plug in one of the cables for front USB 3 and that apparently has bricked the board

Even with no USB plugged in anywhere i still get the error and i have looked over every single port and header and cant see any damage or anything wrong
I think the board is FUBAR which means taking the whole damm PC apart again

I am thinking about exchanging the board for an Asrock X570 Taichi instead
All i did was plug in a case USB 3 cable into the header on the motherboard


----------



## JustinThyme

Im beginning to think if it wasn't for bad lock on this build...you would have no luck. 
Id think twice about plugging that into another board if all was well up to that point. Id be chasing down phanteks for a replacement.


----------



## shilka

There are two such cables and nothing looks wrong on either


----------



## doyll

Sorry to hear that shilka. When I worked construction it seemed if we had problems the first few days we had problems all the way to end of project. I sure hope new board solves yours.


----------



## shilka

What i think happend is because the USB 3 header on the Crosshair VIII Hero is at a 90 degree angle i had to struggle a lot with the USB 3 cable so i might have damage the header on the motherboard or the cable

My friend will look at it on tuesday and if he cant find the problem i am taking the motherboard back to the shop the question do i just get the board replaced with another Crosshair VIII Hero or should i go with the Asrock X570 Taichi instead?

The Taichi has a normal USB 3 header which is much easier to work with since i dont have to bend the cable as much to get it plugged in and the Taichi is a lot cheaper so i would be getting money back

Another question is if its the cable how do i know if plugging it in wont brick the next board so should i just ditch the front ports and stick with the rear ports?
I could get a USB hub and plug into one of the rear USB ports and have the hub on my desk and that would actually be easier that using the case front USB ports

Think the Taichi looks better anyway but the location of EPS port is an even bigger problem than on the Hero
Anyone see any problems with the cables?


----------



## JustinThyme

I connected mine up in the front but rarely use them The I dea you said with the destop hub is my first choice. 
I use the Anker 60W hub. Gives me 3 ports for power only (self powered hub) and 7 for data which is more than I use. Keyboard, Two USB mice, Xbox wireless controller, and a few left over for media. Then power for recharging whatever.

https://www.anker.com/products/vari...vRTFkrjRc5h5DJiuo91LxIjIqWNNSXuhoCCFMQAvD_BwE


----------



## Krisztias

shilka said:


> You are talking about this right?
> https://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B01BZIBJAK/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A133RA3ZUAU4I7&psc=1
> 
> I have already spent way too much on this build and if i have to spend even more on an adaptor i am getting annoyed
> 
> You can change the color of the case on the front of the case from what i understand and since i just need a single static color it seems like its throwing money out the window just so you can control the case colors from the Asus Aura software
> 
> Canceled the Phanteks LED strips as well since they also use the stupid 3 pin system that wont fit the 4 pin motherboard headers


On the C8H you have both: 3pin and 4pin. I connected the case to the 3pin (D-RGB) header and it works well.


----------



## shilka

Krisztias said:


> On the C8H you have both: 3pin and 4pin. I connected the case to the 3pin (D-RGB) header and it works well.


 So that header that says ADD 5v is the the 3pin?
I misread it as saying HDD but now that i have taken the motherboard out of the case for RMA i can see it says ADD not HDD

The motherboard is now FUBAR
Edit: one of the fans in my old Luxe 1 has gone bad the motor is making an extremely annoying ticking sound so disconnected it


----------



## ciarlatano

shilka said:


> What i think happend is because the USB 3 header on the Crosshair VIII Hero is at a 90 degree angle i had to struggle a lot with the USB 3 cable so i might have damage the header on the motherboard or the cable
> 
> My friend will look at it on tuesday and if he cant find the problem i am taking the motherboard back to the shop the question do i just get the board replaced with another Crosshair VIII Hero or should i go with the Asrock X570 Taichi instead?
> 
> The Taichi has a normal USB 3 header which is much easier to work with since i dont have to bend the cable as much to get it plugged in and the Taichi is a lot cheaper so i would be getting money back
> 
> Another question is if its the cable how do i know if plugging it in wont brick the next board so should i just ditch the front ports and stick with the rear ports?
> I could get a USB hub and plug into one of the rear USB ports and have the hub on my desk and that would actually be easier that using the case front USB ports
> 
> Think the Taichi looks better anyway but the location of EPS port is an even bigger problem than on the Hero
> Anyone see any problems with the cables?


So....you know how you feel about PSUs made up of second tier components and cost cutting designs? If that carries over to MBs, you may want to take a closer look at that ASRock before you even consider it......


----------



## shilka

ciarlatano said:


> So....you know how you feel about PSUs made up of second tier components and cost cutting designs? If that carries over to MBs, you may want to take a closer look at that ASRock before you even consider it......


 Since i managed to install windows before i broke the board by accident i dont want to re-intall windows again which i have to do with another motherboard so i am just going to ask for another C8H
Also on taking a second look in the light one of the USB 3 cables from the case looks strange so i am not hooking that one up but the other looks fine

Edit: does this look strange to anyone else or is it just me?


----------



## flyinion

Hi guys quick question on the luxe 2 fan hub (or any other case that uses the same part). Am I correct in that the wire hanging off goes to the mobo header and the white header on the hub is where it reads RPM etc? The manual was confusing and made it sound like a wire needed to go from the white header to the mobo header. Then I opened the case when I got it and there was already a wire hanging off the board. 


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## shilka

flyinion said:


> Hi guys quick question on the luxe 2 fan hub (or any other case that uses the same part). Am I correct in that the wire hanging off goes to the mobo header and the white header on the hub is where it reads RPM etc? The manual was confusing and made it sound like a wire needed to go from the white header to the mobo header. Then I opened the case when I got it and there was already a wire hanging off the board.


The wire hanging off the fan hub goes into the motherboard but the hub also need the SATA power connector to be hooked up the the PSU
The other SATA power connector is for the LED lights


----------



## flyinion

shilka said:


> The wire hanging off the fan hub goes into the motherboard but the hub also need the SATA power connector to be hooked up the the PSU
> The other SATA power connector is for the LED lights




Great thanks! I figured that was the case. Like I said the manual was a bit confusing on the fan hub to mobo connection. 


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## flyinion

I know it doesn't use it's full potential yet but got my system moved over from the H500M I was using (sold it) and rebuilt my loop last night. Case is intended to last for a few builds. Also with more breathing room I intend to add another rad to the loop and get the taller res tube either a push pull 45-60mm 360 in the bottom or a 420 in the front and do something different for the res maybe mounted horizontal on the floor. also will learn hard tubing before I change the loop other than the res tube. 











Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## chibi

Hello everyone, I'm planning to order either the P600S or Meshify S2 to watercool with 2x 360mm radiators. Does anyone here have working experience watercooling in the P600S? Is there any reason I shouldn't get the P600S over the Meshify S2?

Thank you! :thumb:


----------



## bhoot

flyinion said:


> I know it doesn't use it's full potential yet but got my system moved over from the H500M I was using (sold it) and rebuilt my loop last night. Case is intended to last for a few builds. Also with more breathing room I intend to add another rad to the loop and get the taller res tube either a push pull 45-60mm 360 in the bottom or a 420 in the front and do something different for the res maybe mounted horizontal on the floor. also will learn hard tubing before I change the loop other than the res tube.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


Got the same support stick. Looks good. 

Sent from my SM-G975F using Tapatalk


----------



## Gilles3000

chibi said:


> Hello everyone, I'm planning to order either the P600S or Meshify S2 to watercool with 2x 360mm radiators. Does anyone here have working experience watercooling in the P600S? Is there any reason I shouldn't get the P600S over the Meshify S2?
> 
> Thank you! :thumb:


They're both good and somewhat similar cases, I'd say get whichever you like best.


----------



## flyinion

*[Official] Case PHANTEKS Case Club for lovers &amp; owners*



bhoot said:


> Got the same support stick. Looks good.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G975F using Tapatalk




Thanks. I want to figure something out for under the riser cable towards the rear of the case just to make sure heating and cooling cycles don't cause the non latched end to work it's way out of alignment and short something. I tried to use the phanteks pcie bracket but without doing hard tubing there was no way I was gonna get the loop plumbed the way I wanted. If I had gone with a crossflow rad it might have worked. I get to keep my pcie slots this way though. 


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## shilka

Some of you have been wondering why the Luxe 2 name was changed and here is why
https://www.techpowerup.com/260818/phanteks-renames-enthoo-luxe-2-to-enthoo-719

Thermaltake is a just a bully and a patent troll and Phanteks should have told them to sod off instead if giving in and changing the name
I for one refuse to call it the 719 it says Luxe 2 on the box so thats what its called and Thermaltake can go drink sewage


----------



## scracy

shilka said:


> Some of you have been wondering why the Luxe 2 name was changed and here is why
> https://www.techpowerup.com/260818/phanteks-renames-enthoo-luxe-2-to-enthoo-719
> 
> Thermaltake is a just a bully and a patent troll and Phanteks should have told them to sod off instead if giving in and changing the name
> I for one refuse to call it the 719 it says Luxe 2 on the box so thats what its called and Thermaltake can go drink sewage


Thats bit rich coming from Thermalfake


----------



## ciarlatano

scracy said:


> Thats bit rich coming from Thermalfake


Yeah, Tt thinks it's fine to steal a design from head to toe.....but don't be using a name that is close to a part of their failed accessory line. Tt needs to go BK and have the world rid of them and their garbage products.


----------



## shilka

I say we keep calling it the Luxe 2 just to annoy TT
They are a bunch of talentless hacks bullies and patent trolls


----------



## ciarlatano

shilka said:


> I say we keep calling it the Luxe 2 just to annoy TT
> They are a bunch of talentless hacks bullies and patent trolls


of course. Then Tt will make a duplicate out of bad materials with awful fit and finish and claim it as an original design.


----------



## doyll

All of us older computer people know what Tt is .. shoddy products, poor support, stealing designs, etc. Anyone with half a brain cel can see that 'Luxe 2' is not 'Luxa 2'


----------



## shilka

The last TT case i have was the Xaser VI in 2008 and i got rid of it in 2010 in excange for the first NZXT Phantom which was in some ways a worse case than the Xaser VI 
It was actually not a bad case so i think they went downhill around that time

I was in my early 20´s at the time so i thought it was a super cool looking case


----------



## doyll

shilka said:


> The last TT case i have was the Xaser VI in 2008 and i got rid of it in 2010 in excange for the first NZXT Phantom which was in some ways a worse case than the Xaser VI
> It was actually not a bad case so i think they went downhill around that time
> 
> I was in my early 20´s at the time so i thought it was a super cool looking case


If you had used it more than a couple years the plastics would have probably started coming apart. That is what happed to Xaser III V1000A Black I had .. not to mention it's extremely poor case airflow design.


----------



## shilka

doyll said:


> If you had used it more than a couple years the plastics would have probably started coming apart. That is what happed to Xaser III V1000A Black I had .. not to mention it's extremely poor case airflow design.


The plastic cover that goes over the front I/O broke off but i replaced it because it was too heavy
The Xaser III was the first case i ever bought and it was the second worst case i have ever owned 

The Thermaltake Tai Chi is the worst case i have ever owned and is also the single worst case ever built
I have had 4 Thermaltake cases and only one of them was even close to being good the Xaser VI was alright and the Xaser III and Tai Chi where junk

Out of the 4 i liked the Soprano DX the most and its also the only mid tower case i have ever owned


----------



## ciarlatano

shilka said:


> Out of the 4 i liked the Soprano DX the most and its also the only mid tower case i have ever owned


And wasn't the Soprano DX a direct copy of an Antec design? Or am I remembering that wrong?


----------



## shilka

ciarlatano said:


> And wasn't the Soprano DX a direct copy of an Antec design? Or am I remembering that wrong?


I dont know it looks like this


----------



## ciarlatano

shilka said:


> I dont know it looks like this


I recall there being a stir because it was essentially a ripoff of one of the Antec Sonata series.


----------



## shilka

ciarlatano said:


> I recall there being a stir because it was essentially a ripoff of one of the Antec Sonata series.


 I was around 20 when i bought it and it was way before i joined any tech forum or did any propper research on stuff
Think it was around 2010 when i started to watch and read youtube and website reviews on stuff before i bought it and i only joined OCN in 2011


----------



## chibi

P600S / Evolv X

Is it possible to fit dual 360mm HWLabs GTX (54mm) radiators in either cases? Or do I need to settle with the 30mm GTS series?


----------



## ciarlatano

chibi said:


> P600S / Evolv X
> 
> Is it possible to fit dual 360mm HWLabs GTX (54mm) radiators in either cases? Or do I need to settle with the 30mm GTS series?


Unless your plan is running the fans at high speeds and noise levels, the GTS outperforms the GTX. So, you wouldn't be settling.
https://www.xtremerigs.net/2015/02/11/radiator-round-2015/5/


----------



## chibi

ciarlatano said:


> Unless your plan is running the fans at high speeds and noise levels, the GTS outperforms the GTX. So, you wouldn't be settling.
> https://www.xtremerigs.net/2015/02/11/radiator-round-2015/5/



Thanks for the review! The GTX look to edge out the GTS once you get to 1300rpm. That's slightly above my fan tolerance as I usually hover around 1000 rpm. I'll have to sleep on this one as I like the look of the thicker rad. Just wondering if I can fit the GTX in the front position and GTS in the top. :thinking:


----------



## scracy

chibi said:


> P600S / Evolv X
> 
> Is it possible to fit dual 360mm HWLabs GTX (54mm) radiators in either cases? Or do I need to settle with the 30mm GTS series?


No chance of fitting dual 360 HWLabs GTX (54mm) in Evolv X however you could fit GTX in the front and GTS in the top


----------



## MoDeNa

Hi all,

Finally I finished my new rig with the Enthoo 719. Here is picture in advance. The PSU led strip stopped working and I am waiting for a new one after contacting Phanteks. I must say that Phanteks' customer support is excellent. 

Once a I receive and replace the broken led strip I promise to share new and better pictures

This is the setup:

1) Hardware:

- Ryzen 3900x
- Gigabyte X570 Aorus Xtreme v1.0
- EVGA RTX 2080 Ti XC Ultra
- 2x16 GB GSkill Trident Z 3200 CL14 @ 3800 CL16
- Corsair MP600 1 TB
- Samsung EVO 850 500 GB SSD
- Samsung EVO 850 2 TB SSD
- Seasonic Prime Ultra Titanium 850w

2) WC Setup:

- CPU block: Heatkiller IV Pro black copper
- GPU block: Heatkiller IV black
- Radiators:
1 x Alphacool NexXxos XT45 480mm
1 x Alphacool NexXxos XT45 360mm
1 x Alphacool NexXxos ST30 360mm
- Pump: Singularity Computers D5
- Reservoir: Singularity Computers Protium 200mm
- Fittings: Bitspower black sparkle
- Tube: Bitspower PETG 16/12
- Aquaero 6 LT
- Noctua AF12-25 PWM fans
- Mayhems X1 Clear



Hope you like it!

Thanks!


----------



## JustinThyme

Nice job.


----------



## doyll

MoDeNa said:


> Hi all,
> 
> Finally I finished my new rig with the Enthoo 719. Here is picture in advance. The PSU led strip stopped working and I am waiting for a new one after contacting Phanteks. I must say that Phanteks' customer support is excellent.
> 
> Once a I receive and replace the broken led strip I promise to share new and better pictures
> 
> This is the setup:
> 
> 1) Hardware:
> 
> - Ryzen 3900x
> - Gigabyte X570 Aorus Xtreme v1.0
> - EVGA RTX 2080 Ti XC Ultra
> - 2x16 GB GSkill Trident Z 3200 CL14 @ 3800 CL16
> - Corsair MP600 1 TB
> - Samsung EVO 850 500 GB SSD
> - Samsung EVO 850 2 TB SSD
> - Seasonic Prime Ultra Titanium 850w
> 
> 2) WC Setup:
> 
> - CPU block: Heatkiller IV Pro black copper
> - GPU block: Heatkiller IV black
> - Radiators:
> 1 x Alphacool NexXxos XT45 480mm
> 1 x Alphacool NexXxos XT45 360mm
> 1 x Alphacool NexXxos ST30 360mm
> - Pump: Singularity Computers D5
> - Reservoir: Singularity Computers Protium 200mm
> - Fittings: Bitspower black sparkle
> - Tube: Bitspower PETG 16/12
> - Aquaero 6 LT
> - Noctua AF12-25 PWM fans
> - Mayhems X1 Clear
> 
> 
> 
> Hope you like it!
> 
> Thanks!


Nice looking *Luxe 2 *build. :thumb:


----------



## shilka

6 hours and an unholy amount of hard work sweat and loud cursing later i moved my old system into the Luxe 2
I know the cable management sucks and i dont give a damm anymore it works thats good enough

Not sure what i will be doing with the AMD parts i can either ask for a third Crosshair VIII Hero which i dont feel like doing F that POS board
I can ask for other parts or i can ask for my money back but i might not get the full amount i spent 

At this point i am fed up i had enough and i am pissed!

Edit: after calming down i think i will keep the 3700x and the 3600 MHz RAM but i am not getting another Crosshair VIII Hero that board is so not worth the money
I am split between the Asus X570 Strix-E or F or the Asrock X570 Taichi and i already know someone said its not a great board but it cant be worse than the crappy Crosshair VIII Hero

Hero HA more like zero and the new parts will go into the Luxe 2 since i only need to take the old motherboard out now i wont need to install the PSU the drives and all the cables again
Might try to clean up the cables a bit but i cant be bothered right now its 1 AM right now and i super tired and annoyed


----------



## chibi

Hi watercoolers, with the P600S, how viable is it to setup both 360 rads as intake and the rear 120 as exhaust? Does the case have enough volume to not trap the air and overheat the components?

I'm planning to use dual 360 rads, both as intake with fans at 1,000 rpm. If that's not good, then I will most likely utilize the front rad as intake, top as exhaust and rear 120 fan as intake as well.


----------



## ciarlatano

chibi said:


> Hi watercoolers, with the P600S, how viable is it to setup both 360 rads as intake and the rear 120 as exhaust? Does the case have enough volume to not trap the air and overheat the components?
> 
> I'm planning to use dual 360 rads, both as intake with fans at 1,000 rpm. If that's not good, then I will most likely utilize the front rad as intake, top as exhaust and rear 120 fan as intake as well.


so, you are asking if a single 120mm can move as much air as six 120mm fans? Am I reading that correctly?


----------



## shilka

I am really not impressed with the Luxe 2 the rear side panel has already been bent and cant close flush anymore and most of the inner frame is also very thin and very easy to bend
The front HDD mounts dont seem super strong and i am actually worried about if the mount will break off and have my HDD crash down to the bottom of the case

Another problem is there is not enough space above the CPU cooler for fans in the top if you have a big air cooler the NH-U12S was able to clear but the NH-D15S cant so i had to remove one of the top fans

I think the Luxe 1 was a better quality case it was better built but the air flow in the Luxe 2 is far better
A shame that the P600S was too small as i think it might have been a better case

Edit: i still dont know what to do i can either ask for my money back and keep using the old X99 system in the Luxe 2 like i am doing now and upgrade later
Or i can ask for another motherboard like the Asus X570 Strix-E but i am not 100% if the CPU and RAM are working

They still sell the 6900K but i dont feel like a 3 year old CPU is worth the asking price


----------



## bhoot

Luxe 2 is flimsy, limited room in roof, extremely bad cable management space. Case should of been 2" wider and the sheet metals thicker. Extra 2" taller for roof space. Hindsight is 20/20, I doubt I will buy Phanteks again. Evolv was crap hot spot of a case. Luxe 2 for its size, its unfortunate that crap cable management space and other issues let it down. Bought the case for £185. Anyways. It does the bare basic mostly right. Do think Corsair, Lian and others have better products. Just a lot more expensive or modding required. 

Sent from my SM-G975F using Tapatalk


----------



## shilka

Just noticed that the LED lights inside the case is not working anymore so i probably unplugged the cable for it or something
The outside lights are working so did i unplug a cable or what?


----------



## flyinion

shilka said:


> Just noticed that the LED lights inside the case is not working anymore so i probably unplugged the cable for it or something
> The outside lights are working so did i unplug a cable or what?




Probably. On mine the connector is right at the upper left corner of the cable management door. If you pull the LED strip will actually start coming out. 


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## bhoot

Luxe 2. Issue. Just tried closing the front panel for the first time. It is not closing. The reverse/inside or the front panel with the diagonal support to the main middle plane is hitting ghe fans. Managed to damage 2 of the externally mounted 140mm fans. Only thing I can think of it to get a dremel and cut out the diagonal pieces. Any mounted the fans on the outside? I saw various pic and builds with the fans on the outside with Rads on the inside so just assumed all is good. I think 120mm fan on outside would fit not issue and 140mm hit the diagonal supports. 

Sent from my SM-G975F using Tapatalk


----------



## shilka

Any others that have the problem of the glass side panel on the Luxe 2 being unable to close and lock unless you lift it up? it wont lock on mine i have to lift it up its like its sagging
The Luxe 2 is just a giant trainwreck

On another note i think i will be ditching AMD after all i have had nothing but problems so a 9900K and a Z390 motherboard seems much more and more like a better option
I am so fed up so i am even willing to lose SATA ports at this point


----------



## bhoot

shilka said:


> Any others that have the problem of the glass side panel on the Luxe 2 being unable to close and lock unless you lift it up? it wont lock on mine i have to lift it up its like its sagging
> The Luxe 2 is just a giant trainwreck
> 
> On another note i think i will be ditching AMD after all i have had nothing but problems so a 9900K and a Z390 motherboard seems much more and more like a better option
> I am so fed up so i am even willing to lose SATA ports at this point


No glass door side panel closing issues. Pic attached. 









Sent from my SM-G975F using Tapatalk


----------



## shilka

flyinion said:


> Probably. On mine the connector is right at the upper left corner of the cable management door. If you pull the LED strip will actually start coming out.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


 Could you take a picture and show where it is? i looked and there are so many cables that i cant see it
Thanks


----------



## doyll

chibi said:


> Hi watercoolers, with the P600S, how viable is it to setup both 360 rads as intake and the rear 120 as exhaust? Does the case have enough volume to not trap the air and overheat the components?
> 
> I'm planning to use dual 360 rads, both as intake with fans at 1,000 rpm. If that's not good, then I will most likely utilize the front rad as intake, top as exhaust and rear 120 fan as intake as well.


 Should work fine. :thumb: 

Filtered rear intake should give you just enough positive pressure to keep dust out.


----------



## chibi

ciarlatano said:


> so, you are asking if a single 120mm can move as much air as six 120mm fans? Am I reading that correctly?



Essentially, yes. Wondering if there's enough volume in the case to support 2x 360 rads as intake while the 120 will be setup as exhaust. I would prefer the rads to intake fresh instead of recycling the warm air.



doyll said:


> Should work fine. :thumb:
> 
> Filtered rear intake should give you just enough positive pressure to keep dust out.



If the above solutions heats up the case too much with just a single 120 as exhaust, then I will change the config to make the top rad exhaust.


----------



## flyinion

shilka said:


> Could you take a picture and show where it is? i looked and there are so many cables that i cant see it
> Thanks


I would but I'd have to shut the system down, unplug everything, and haul it out of my office to have room to pull the panel, and I also have a bunch of PSU cables covering the area up. It's right in the upper left corner of that PSU area. If you look at the LED strip from the window side of the case, basically right where it meets the motherboard tray, look right behind that point for a 3 pin Phanteks RGB connector. I snagged this pic off phanteks' site and circled roughly the area to look for it.


----------



## shilka

Found out why my built in internal LED strip in the Luxe 2 is not working it has snapped clean in half so i disconnected it
Is there any way you can stick a replacement strip in there or do i need to replace the whole case?


----------



## MoDeNa

shilka said:


> Found out why my built in internal LED strip in the Luxe 2 is not working it has snapped clean in half so i disconnected it
> Is there any way you can stick a replacement strip in there or do i need to replace the whole case?


You need to contact with Phanteks customer service:

CUSTOMER CARE
RMA and Technical Support
Hours : Monday-Friday 9:00-5:00 PST
Phone number : +1(909)598-2115
Email us : [email protected] (US and Canada)
Email us : [email protected] (International)

Contact them and they will help you. They are very quick


----------



## shilka

MoDeNa said:


> You need to contact with Phanteks customer service:
> 
> CUSTOMER CARE
> RMA and Technical Support
> Hours : Monday-Friday 9:00-5:00 PST
> Phone number : +1(909)598-2115
> Email us : [email protected] (US and Canada)
> Email us : [email protected] (International)
> 
> Contact them and they will help you. They are very quick


I already sent them an email but that was to the sale department
Copy pasted the same email and sent it to the support email you just gave me

Thanks

Edit: by the way both side panels are bent way out of shape as well so you really have to struggle to get the damm doors to close and the rear one cant even close flush as its so bent out of shape

The Luxe 2 easily ranks in the top 5 worst cases i have owned maybe even top 3 lol
My best friend really want one so i am thinking about taking a loss and selling this pile of rubbish and buying a new Luxe 2 maybe the QC will be better in a few months

Pretty much nothing i have bought for the new PC has been working almost everything is broken and defective brand new out of the box
I am on my third motherboard now and i got fed up and paid a technician to test everything before they hand anything over again

If it was not for the fact that i have spent so much money on extra HDD cages and longer SATA cables i would have gone back to the Luxe 1 but too much time and money have been spent on the Luxe 2 to go back now


----------



## Cata79

I was torn between LianLi O11 XL and Luxe 2, thank god I went for the O11, everything in place, great build quality. And yes, I have a NH-D15s and vents on top


----------



## shilka

Cata79 said:


> I was torn between LianLi O11 XL and Luxe 2, thank god I went for the O11, everything in place, great build quality. And yes, I have a NH-D15s and vents on top


Looks really nice but can only hold 4 HDD´s so thats not an option for me
The number of cases on the market that can hold more than 6 HDD´s can almost be counted on one hand


----------



## bhoot

Cata79 said:


> I was torn between LianLi O11 XL and Luxe 2, thank god I went for the O11, everything in place, great build quality. And yes, I have a NH-D15s and vents on top


Going to use my Luxe 2 as much as I can but do feel the Thermaltake 900 is my ideal case. Can fit 2x HDDs, single optical, few SSDs and could easily mod it for even more HDD storage if needed with just a dremel. Luxe 2 probably the worse case I bought based on product vs money paid. I paid £160 for the Evolv ATX, while air flow was crap, it was a quality case and worth the money spent. TJ07 from Silverstone was the best case I had so far. Wishful thinking but if the Corsair 1000D was to go on sale, I might consider it, only issue being my lower back cannot take heavy lifting. Don't get me wrong, Luxe 2 is good if you can make it work for you, for me there are too many drawbacks, rear back of the case panel I had to knockout and deform just to close the case. Power button looks really weak. If they added 2“ more width the whole feel of the case would change but it is what it is. Spent money. Not happy. Will go elsewhere. Simples. Front panel not allowing 140mm external mounting is just crap design. 

Sent from my SM-G975F using Tapatalk


----------



## shilka

Tried digging out the broken LED strip and its stuck in there dont know if they glued it in place or what?
Does anyone know if the area marked on the picture is metal? 

I ordered a CableMod magnetic LED strip and i am thinking why not slap it on top of the broken Phanteks LED strip the CableMod is probably better anyway
The original plan was putting the strip in the top but since the motherboard has two LED headers i can order another one and stick in the top

Edit: the Luxe 2 a huge disappointment for me because of the QC issues and with the bent side panels and broken LED stips right out of the box and if Phanteks had tweaked it just a little bit more it could have been a great case

Like it has been said make the metal just a little bit thicker so it does not flex and bend as much 

Make it just a cm wider or longer to give more room for cable management 
Make it just a cm taller so you can actually have fans together with big air coolers and have room for the EPS cable without taking out the fans 
Do a better job with quality control so the side panels are not bent to the moon when you unbox your brand new case 
Do something about the LED strip as its way too easy to break in two


----------



## Cata79

What pushed me towards LianLi was this (check at 15:06)


----------



## bhoot

Cata79 said:


> What pushed me towards LianLi was this (check at 15:06) http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9iCVjb6zm1w&t=15m6s


Once the case is full there is no flex at all. Understand your point though cannot knock the viewpoint. Starting to realise how many badly manufactured cases there are. Thermaltake 900 in black is fine but the white version is a bit of a mess, also the air flow is not as good you would think. Going to a friend's place over the weekend, he has the 900 and the 1000d which he uses as the main. Lucky git used up some vouchers and ended up paying £100 from his own pocket. 

Sent from my SM-G975F using Tapatalk


----------



## doyll

chibi said:


> Essentially, yes. Wondering if there's enough volume in the case to support 2x 360 rads as intake while the 120 will be setup as exhaust. I would prefer the rads to intake fresh instead of recycling the warm air.
> 
> If the above solutions heats up the case too much with just a single 120 as exhaust, then I will change the config to make the top rad exhaust.


 Case will only flow the lower amount of intake vs exhaust volume, so a case with 1x exhaust vent and 6x intake vents will only flow as much air as it's 1x exhaust can flow. 

For comparison let us think of your 120mm vents as hoses each flowing water at the same rate and your case as a water tank. 1x hose (1x rear exhaust vent) flowing water out of water tank limits the 6x hoses (6x intake vents) flowing water in to the amount of water going out the 1x hose (1x vent). 

Using front as intake and top as exhaust will flow a little more air out top because top doesn't have the added resistance to airflow the front filter create. Using 1x rear intake (with filter) will move enough extra filtered air into case to have a little more intake potential than exhaust, so positive pressure case with little to no dust in it.


----------



## doyll

bhoot said:


> Once the case is full there is no flex at all. Understand your point though cannot knock the viewpoint. Starting to realise how many badly manufactured cases there are. Thermaltake 900 in black is fine but the white version is a bit of a mess, also the air flow is not as good you would think. Going to a friend's place over the weekend, he has the 900 and the 1000d which he uses as the main. Lucky git used up some vouchers and ended up paying £100 from his own pocket.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G975F using Tapatalk



In the past I've owned a couple Thermalfake and have used most Phanteks cases .. but not Luxe 2. All of the Phanteks cases are way better built than Thermalfake were.


----------



## bhoot

doyll said:


> In the past I've owned a couple Thermalfake and have used most Phanteks cases .. but not Luxe 2. All of the Phanteks cases are way better built than Thermalfake were.


Funny. Heard the same words to that effect. 

Sent from my SM-G975F using Tapatalk


----------



## Cata79

bhoot said:


> Once the case is full there is no flex at all. Understand your point though cannot knock the viewpoint. Starting to realise how many badly manufactured cases there are. Thermaltake 900 in black is fine but the white version is a bit of a mess, also the air flow is not as good you would think. Going to a friend's place over the weekend, he has the 900 and the 1000d which he uses as the main. Lucky git used up some vouchers and ended up paying £100 from his own pocket.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G975F using Tapatalk


I know it doesn't flex when mounted, but it tells you what kind of steel they used.


----------



## shilka

I tried digging out the broken LED strip with a tweezer or whatever you call them in english and all i did was push it futher in
Since i need to take the PC apart anyway when i get the new motherboard i was thinking what if i take everything out of the case could i shake the strip out?

Only other options is use a saw a drill or some tool to break the end of the plastic tube the LED strip is in and i dont want to break the case more than it already is
Am talking to Phanteks about getting a new glass side panel and a new LED strip so i might be able to save this trainwreck of a case i have gotten


----------



## JustinThyme

Cata79 said:


> I know it doesn't flex when mounted, but it tells you what kind of steel they used.


Its hard to meet the balance between rigidity and weight. Best case Ive ever owned and will continue to use probably until im no longer walking this planet is the Enthoo Elite. Case is massive and its VERY rigid. Chief complaint about this VERY rigid case? Its weight. 72 Lbs empty! Had a hard time getting it out of the aircraft transport case and my biggest mistake was choosing my work bench in my basement to do the assembly as its final resting place is on the second floor. I did not weight in once full of 2X 480 x 60 rads, a 360x60 rad two GPU water blocks, VRM block and CPU block....All HK. Add in the 1600 watt PSU heavy HK 200mm glass res all the liquid and a good 10 lbs of cable weight and shes one fat lady. Id put down a conservative estimate of 120 Lbs. What I can say is Ive not found my left nut that fell into my right sock coming up two flights of stairs with that. With one more kid thats a HS senior this year to get through a school district thats rated top 5% nationally and my dread continues as we will be putting this 3K sqft house on the market and looking for something on a single floor and more befitting for two people and our two Labradors thats in a place more rural and more importantly lower property taxes as $14K/Year is just outrageous but was worth it for the schools. Wats the dread? Having to drop my right nut in my left sock to move this thing again! I dont regret it as its a beautiful creation but GOOD GAWD at the weight.


----------



## shilka

Finally got the broken LED strip out of the tube and here is a top tip to all Luxe 2 owners if you ever get the strip broken or stuck in the tube you can use a paper clip and stick it into the tube from the back end of the case all you need to do is remove the back plate for the main chamber and there is a hole back there which goes into the tube and you can stick a paper clip in and push the LED strip out


----------



## Cata79

JustinThyme said:


> ....


Heavy is good, as Boris said


----------



## JustinThyme

Cata79 said:


> Heavy is good, as Boris said
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lX0MB7pJtKs


Yeah maybe Boris can move this sucker when the day comes and leave his nuts in his socks


----------



## Mako0312

I've got the Luxe 1, and want to add a AIO W/C to my CPU. 

Anyone have any recommendations on what to add. The EVGA CLC 280 is $80 after a MIR. Thinking about that, but not sure if 280 is way too big.3

Also any good case fans to upgrade to for this case?


----------



## ciarlatano

Mako0312 said:


> I've got the Luxe 1, and want to add a AIO W/C to my CPU.
> 
> Anyone have any recommendations on what to add. The EVGA CLC 280 is $80 after a MIR. Thinking about that, but not sure if 280 is way too big.3
> 
> Also any good case fans to upgrade to for this case?


280s fit like a glove up top. I wouldn't use an Asetek in a Luxe....or any other case.....but have at it.

As far as the fans, if you have the Rev that came with two MP140 up front, they are hard to improve on in that application. You could go all out and buy 140mm SW3s, and even they would only be a slight upgrade in terms of performance. If the tonality is your issue, that is all a matter of taste.


----------



## bhoot

Luxe 2/ 719 owners. Some general info. You can fit 140mm rans externally mounted to the front of the case - yes the 'but' - you will need to saw/dremel off the support struts on the front panel (diagonal pieces of plastic connecting the outline to the mid-panel. I've dremel'ed these off the and the front panel does fit - flush without issues.
Some advice if your building new/empty case. Drill some holes on the front of the case to make your cable runs shorter and avoid issues. If your using Corsair RGB/LL or new RGB fans, then unless your going to make/buy RGB extension cables, you will not have many options but to drill some holes. On my case, I've gone down the extension cable route, simply because the PC is fully built, if the case was empty - I'd drill some holes and be done with it. Not finished.
The standard front panel mesh has 4 little magnets, the issue with mounting fans externally is the fact that the mesh panel gets in the way when putting the front panel in as you need to push it down before it secures into place. There is enough space for 140mm mesh fan protectors to sit on the fan without any clearance issues - its tight but doable. Going to order some mesh 140mm guards for the fans and this will complete my front panel escapades. Will be running the case without mesh on the front for a few days.
Drain port/Fill port. Most useless ports in the case. You have to remove the roof/top panel top access the top fill port, you need to remove the top and front panel top access the drain port. ***. Design fail.


----------



## flyinion

I don't understand why you'd want to put fans in between the frame and front panel of the Luxe 2/719? That would leave no room for airflow to even get to them. It would be like those stupid all glass cases that have fans in the front with no gap for air to get in. Maybe I'm missing something?


----------



## bhoot

flyinion said:


> I don't understand why you'd want to put fans in between the frame and front panel of the Luxe 2/719? That would leave no room for airflow to even get to them. It would be like those stupid all glass cases that have fans in the front with no gap for air to get in. Maybe I'm missing something?


There is no barrier between fan air hitting the radiator. It's straigh through. I can also swap out each fan if they fail without touching the water cooling loop. Initial build is push at the front but planning on going push pull for summer, if I can find a good way to mount the res to floor fans. 

Sent from my SM-G975F using Tapatalk


----------



## flyinion

bhoot said:


> There is no barrier between fan air hitting the radiator. It's straigh through. I can also swap out each fan if they fail without touching the water cooling loop. Initial build is push at the front but planning on going push pull for summer, if I can find a good way to mount the res to floor fans.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G975F using Tapatalk




I'm talking about the front panel. The fans would be super close to the front metal piece in it and the fan height would block off the slits on the sides. 


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## JustinThyme

flyinion said:


> I'm talking about the front panel. The fans would be super close to the front metal piece in it and the fan height would block off the slits on the sides.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


Doesnt take much clearance to get adequate airflow. Its the same on my enthoo elite. 360 in the front with the fans on the outside of the frame but behind front cover. Maybe 1/4 inch clearance. They must pull plenty of air because they filters collect plenty of dust. Not ideal if you are running 1000Cfm fans but with 3 120MM fans that stay below 1000 rpms its sufficient. Before I finished assembly I did a smoke test with just those fans running. Pulled it right through.


----------



## doyll

JustinThyme said:


> Doesnt take much clearance to get adequate airflow. Its the same on my enthoo elite. 360 in the front with the fans on the outside of the frame but behind front cover. Maybe 1/4 inch clearance. They must pull plenty of air because they filters collect plenty of dust. Not ideal if you are running 1000Cfm fans but with 3 120MM fans that stay below 1000 rpms its sufficient. Before I finished assembly I did a smoke test with just those fans running. Pulled it right through.


Airflow science says fans should have their diameter of intake clearance.
























So 1/3 the diameter of fan for clearance works very well.. even 1/4rd works way better than the stock clearance we have in most computer cases. I don't know of any case manufacturer that allows even 1/4th fan diameter clearance.. It's usualy more like 1/6th or 1/7th the diameter..









I try to have at least as much airflow area to fan as area of airflow through fan. IE; 120mm fan has 113sq cm of area equals circumference of 37.7cm times 3cm clearance is 113sq cm of area to draw air for single fan. 2x 120mm fans side by side need 4cm clearance.

Problem compounds when we have fans side by side because each fan looses all airflow on side/s against other fan/s .. that is 1/4 - 1/3 of it's circumference intake area with no airflow. 2x 120mm fans side by side have 226sq cm fan area (402sq cm w/o fan motor hub area) and 56.52sq cm circumference to draw air from because the sides between fans cannot draw any air into fan. With 4cm clearance between fan and whatever is in front of it there is 226.08sq cm of area to draw air into fans having similar 226sq cm area / 201sq cm w/o motor hub area.
When we have 3x fans side by side there is even less intake area becuase middle fan can only draw air in from 2 sides.

This is half of the reason my builds almost always have castors under them. Other have is ease of moving. :thumb:


----------



## Gilles3000

Mako0312 said:


> I've got the Luxe 1, and want to add a AIO W/C to my CPU.
> 
> Anyone have any recommendations on what to add. The EVGA CLC 280 is $80 after a MIR. Thinking about that, but not sure if 280 is way too big.3
> 
> Also any good case fans to upgrade to for this case?


$80 is not a bad deal for a 280mm CLC and it should fit just fine, the fan design on that unit seems gimmicky and questionable as hell tho.

If you really do not want to get a decent air cooler for whatever reason, the CLC would be an okay choice I guess?


----------



## TMatzelle60

@shilka 

Have not read to many problems with the case maybe just got a bad one I mean you will always have problems during manufacturing that should not be missed like the RGB LED Strip but stuff happens


----------



## shilka

The thin steel frame and the tiny amount of space for cable management and many of the other problems are design flaws it has nothing to do with if the case was badly put together or not
The broken LED strip and the crooked and bent side panels i can agree with but everything else no thats just badly designed

If you want to have a 140mm fan in the top back position you have to install it AFTER you have installed the motherboard and the EPS cable otherwise there is no room to work with up there and you have to remove the fan which is just an idiotic design choice and just a single 1cm more and there would have been room to work


----------



## TMatzelle60

@shilka

Sorry I miss read your post then my bad.

Totally understand your complaints I had a problem with the EPS and stuff to. But there are tons of other cases that have this and its a grip that I always complain about lol


----------



## doyll

What TMatzelle60 said. Frustrating but common problem.


----------



## shilka

The Luxe 1 had plenty of room in top so i dont understand why Phanteks has taken a step backwards


----------



## doyll

shilka said:


> The Luxe 1 had plenty of room in top so i dont understand why Phanteks has taken a step backwards


 At a guess, there are several companies making cases for all brands and have some basic sizes of motherboard panel, back panel, etc that they then put different other panels onto. 

Once this basic panel is tooled for production it would cost a small fortune to change. End result is a bunch of different cases all having the same tight fit problem you experienced with yours. We have to keep in mind the design engineers have never built a computer, and never have to use what they design in actual application. Everyone working in trades like mechanic, builder, plumber, etc. has horror stories about this kind of thing.


----------



## shilka

That reminds me and sory for going off topic but i used to work security at the danish national radio and TV complex while they where building it and it was hilarious because they forgot all about making room for all the AC in building untill they where well into the building so they had to make a half floor between the ground floor and the first to squeeze in all the AC stuff and that floor was like a meter tall and the whole complex was like that 

Another hilarious thing was they had two staircases running next to each other but instead of having doors on each floor they only had doors on every other floor

So if you wanted to go from ground floor to the first floor you had to take the right staircase otherwise you would be looking at concrete wall which meant you had to go up to the second floor go down the hallway and take the other staircase down to get off at the first floor

The architect was french and he plans was altered so much that even he could no longer find his way around and i saw him more than once walking around cursing in french because he was lost and when the architect is lost in the building he drew you know its messed up

Once time they flew in a VIP sound expert from Japan on first class and he spent most of the day walking around in the studios and making tests and reports and one thing found was the huge glass windows they had between the studios and the backroom was ruinning acoustics so they had to smash those windows and they where $15.000 each and they where so big that they where put in place BEFORE the floor above it was made so they had to smash them to get them out 

They had all of the staff and paper pushers in temporarily buildings outside of the complex and everyone on site knew the date they had to move even us security and even the freaking polish workers but they did not know or they somehow forgot so the day before the MASSIVE move they had to scramble and call every moving company in that part of the country to come out and move for them

I was there for about half a year and in that time the walls where painted at least twice maybe 3 times because the painters just walked in and said we need to paint and the paper pushers and staff just said sure go ahead without bothering to check if the walls actually needed to be painted which they did not 

I swear those painters made a ton of taxpayer money all while laughing to the bank
All the other contractors where much the same so no wonder the whole complex ended up costing the taxpayers something like 4 times the planed cost

In short yes i know all about people not talking to each other


----------



## mattxx88

guys a question

i noticed that mine Evolv X, if i have the D-rgb connector of the case plugged into mainboard (asus Maximus Formula X), don't make me change led colors from the front panel, even if i disable the led port from mainboard illumination software

another friend of mine having the same trouble, what about you? all works fine?


----------



## shilka

mattxx88 said:


> guys a question
> 
> i noticed that mine Evolv X, if i have the D-rgb connector of the case plugged into mainboard (asus Maximus Formula X), don't make me change led colors from the front panel, even if i disable the led port from mainboard illumination software
> 
> another friend of mine having the same trouble, what about you? all works fine?


The case might not be compatible with Asus Aura without the Asus Aura adaptor at the end of the A-RGB cable
I believe that the Asus Crosshair VIII Hero came with such an adaptor but i am not sure with other Asus motherboards

Look in the motherboard box if you still have it and see if there is such an adaptor


----------



## TMatzelle60

Another Frustration is the EVGA Z390 Dark and the grommet for the 24pin its more because the Dark motherboard has the 24pin and dual 8 pin on the side.

I have a question for the Luxe 2 owners since I didn't start my build yet. Those hard drive bays on the one side can they be snapped forward like in the Evolv X to let cables run through


----------



## shilka

You can put the HDD´s into the cages any way you like


----------



## TMatzelle60

shilka said:


> You can put the HDD´s into the cages any way you like


Sorry tough to explain. In the Evolv X you can run you cables through those HDD sliders does the Luxe 2 have anything like that with those SSD holders on the back wall. The EVGA Z390 Dark is a pain to route a cable because they have the 24 pin next to 2 8 pins and all are right angled and mm from the grommet. So custom cables are a pain


----------



## shilka

Yes you can run the cables through the HDD/SSD mounts in the front you just need to poke out the plastic cover so its the same system as the P600S/Evolv X
Those right angled connectors are a total PITA i broke a motherboard trying to plug one of the case front USB 3 cables into the motherboard

Edit: bought a USB hub and pluged it into the back instead and since the hub can reach the shelf behind the PC its actually easier to plug stuff into the hub rather than the front USB ports on the case


----------



## TMatzelle60

shilka said:


> Yes you can run the cables through the HDD/SSD mounts in the front you just need to poke out the plastic cover so its the same system as the P600S/Evolv X
> Those right angled connectors are a total PITA i broke a motherboard trying to plug one of the case front USB 3 cables into the motherboard
> 
> Edit: bought a USB hub and pluged it into the back instead and since the hub can reach the shelf behind the PC its actually easier to plug stuff into the hub rather than the front USB ports on the case


Thanks I was looking into another motherboard like the Z390 Taichi Ultimate since I can use the 10GB ethernet but I worry asrock does not make quality motherboards and idk how good that motherboard is


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## shilka

I would take an Asrock board over EVGA any day of the week but thats my personal opinion


----------



## bhoot

Luxe 2/719 cable management. Only way I can get the cable side of the case to close without issues is to route both the GPU and mobo 24pin via the hole next to the PSU. It might not look clean, looks crap, but it does mean I can close the case easily enough. 

Sent from my SM-G975F using Tapatalk


----------



## Hequaqua

Does anyone know if those cable covers on the back wall of the P600s can be removed, and perhaps mount a res to it?


----------



## shilka

New motherboard CPU RAM GPU cooler and old and new LED strips in the old Luxe 1 and the old motherboard CPU RAM GPU cooler in the Luxe 2
Will be swapping them around the weekend after the next one while i do some testing with the new parts


----------



## TMatzelle60

shilka said:


> New motherboard CPU RAM GPU cooler and old and new LED strips in the old Luxe 1 and the old motherboard CPU RAM GPU cooler in the Luxe 2
> Will be swapping them around the weekend after the next one while i do some testing with the new parts


Thats one big case I can't wait to build in mine.


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## dainfamous

Hello

Will removing the filters/grill on the top vents of the older EVOLV ATX be enough to exhaust air out if you were to use a 360 radiator on top?

Thanks


----------



## mAs81

dainfamous said:


> Hello
> 
> Will removing the filters/grill on the top vents of the older EVOLV ATX be enough to exhaust air out if you were to use a 360 radiator on top?
> 
> Thanks


The Evolv ATX has been known to have problems with airflow/hot air exhausting from the top..
You could see the video below for some tips on how to remedy that :thumb:



Spoiler


----------



## doyll

dainfamous said:


> Hello
> 
> Will removing the filters/grill on the top vents of the older EVOLV ATX be enough to exhaust air out if you were to use a 360 radiator on top?
> 
> Thanks


 Evolv ATX works very well when setup properly. Problem is many users don't understand how airflow works or how to set it up properly .. end result is hot components.  Is this your current build or a new project? If it's current build, how is case airflow setup and what coolers are you using?

A few trick with Evolv ATX:
1/ Block all openings in front fan mounting panel not covered by intake fans so air fans are pushing into case does not leak back into front.
2/ Block all openings in radiator tray not covered by radiator so air coming through radiator cannot leak back into motherboard compartment.
I suggest removing the mesh from vents in top. This will improve their airflow significantly.


----------



## ciarlatano

dainfamous said:


> Hello
> 
> Will removing the filters/grill on the top vents of the older EVOLV ATX be enough to exhaust air out if you were to use a 360 radiator on top?
> 
> Thanks





doyll said:


> Evolv ATX works very well when setup properly. Problem is many users don't understand how airflow works or how to set it up properly .. end result is hot components.  Is this your current build or a new project? If it's current build, how is case airflow setup and what coolers are you using?
> 
> A few trick with Evolv ATX:
> 1/ Block all openings in front fan mounting panel not covered by intake fans so air fans are pushing into case does not leak back into front.
> 2/ Block all openings in radiator tray not covered by radiator so air coming through radiator cannot leak back into motherboard compartment.
> I suggest removing the mesh from vents in top. This will improve their airflow significantly.


 @doyll is correct. I've run 360mm rads on the top with no issues once they are properly setup.

The other big part of the equation is using a rad that works well with low fan speeds. Even after proper setup, there will still be limitation to how much air flows freely. Using something like a GTR that requires to 1750 rpm+ fans speeds for efficiency would be foolish, while Nemesis GTS works very well for the application with its great low fan speed performance.


----------



## dainfamous

Hello

Thanks for the reply.

My current setup is probably better if not only for aesthetic reasons.

2x PH-F140MP + 1x 80mm Pure Wings 2 for the HDD for intakes.
1x PH-F140MP exhaust

True Spirit 140 BW Rev A with 2 TY-147 (all black version)

1 reference blower gpu.

I want to lol showoff the gpu so I want to vertical mount it and the cooler is too wide even with offset construction to do it. So I wanted to get a 360mm aio clc for the top just to vertical mount the gpu.

Thanks


----------



## shilka

Not sure how well i matched the purple since the Luxe 1 and the MSI GPU does their own thing
Going to be easier with the Luxe 2 since i bought a spliter and can match the case to the motherboard


----------



## mAs81

Looks boss,kudos :thumb:


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## shilka

Going to look better in the Luxe 2


----------



## TMatzelle60

shilka said:


> Going to look better in the Luxe 2


Are you going to be air cooling in the Luxe 2 also. How will that look lol


----------



## shilka

TMatzelle60 said:


> Are you going to be air cooling in the Luxe 2 also. How will that look lol


 The new system might never make it into the Luxe 2 at this point and maybe i will just keep the systems as they are
And yes i am going to air cool both systems


----------



## TMatzelle60

shilka said:


> The new system might never make it into the Luxe 2 at this point and maybe i will just keep the systems as they are
> And yes i am going to air cool both systems


Thanks Shilka, The only reason I got the Luxe 2 (Not using stupid 719 name) is for storage options also I love that its a bigger case.

Another question I am going to install my PSU in the front chamber where the glass panel is to show it off. Can I use that PSU cover from the front part and attach it to the rear one so that there is no gapping psu hole there. Sorry if its hard to understand my question


----------



## shilka

My advice is dont use the front mounts for storage it will block air flow into the case and the mounts are not solid enough that i would trust having HDD hang on them
If you must use them use the bottom front one and the back bottom ones like i have done

After being unable to sleep yet again because of this f...ing dumpster fire of a build i think the problem is one of the SATA cables one of the silver ones in fact and thats why i have more than one HDD lock up of course they would if its the same SATA cable!!!

Should i just throw it out or should i send an email to CableMod to complain? might end up costing as much as $600 US to have all the HDD´s checked out and tested just for the problem to be a broken $22 SATA cable

The only other thing left is the PSU itself


----------



## TMatzelle60

shilka said:


> My advice is dont use the front mounts for storage it will block air flow into the case and the mounts are not solid enough that i would trust having HDD hang on them
> If you must use them use the bottom front one and the back bottom ones like i have done
> 
> After being unable to sleep yet again because of this f...ing dumpster fire of a build i think the problem is one of the SATA cables one of the silver ones in fact and thats why i have more than one HDD lock up of course they would if its the same SATA cable!!!
> 
> Should i just throw it out or should i send an email to CableMod to complain? might end up costing as much as $600 US to have all the HDD´s checked out and tested just for the problem to be a broken $22 SATA cable
> 
> The only other thing left is the PSU itself


Im using all SSD for my build lol.

I am wondering about putting the PSU in the front near the glass to show it off. Its a Seasonic Prime Ultra Titanium 750watt. When I take off the panel to install near the Glass panel can I take the same cutout from the rear panel and put it on the other side where they have the other PSU cutout


----------



## shilka

No you cant and having the PSU in the main chamber will give the fan very little room to suck air in and the air will be hotter so keep it behind the motherboard tray


----------



## TMatzelle60

shilka said:


> No you cant and having the PSU in the main chamber will give the fan very little room to suck air in and the air will be hotter so keep it behind the motherboard tray


Thanks for the Info.


----------



## bhoot

shilka said:


> No you cant and having the PSU in the main chamber will give the fan very little room to suck air in and the air will be hotter so keep it behind the motherboard tray


Correction. You can put the PSU in the main chamber no issues. Details below.
Option 1. Main chamber PSU. Physically you can install this hear, PSU back plat can be installed here and your good.
Issues. As Shilka rightly pointed out, there will be restricted air flow, less than the rear chamber but its not as bad as you think. You will need to remove the floor support, which open up the floor vents. PSU will have a vent at the bottom of the case. Not perfect or direct but it will work.
You need need to consider case flow so it circulates at the bottom of the case well.
Option 2. Rear chamber. Standard position.
Option 3. Take a dremel to the PSU shroud and punch a square hole into it.
There are options, depends on effort you want to put in. 

Sent from my SM-G975F using Tapatalk


----------



## TMatzelle60

Would you guys consider the Luxe 2 a stupid investment if im doing air cooling with a single system build. Going to use the Noctua NH-D15s and do a all noctua build 

MSI 2080ti 
Elgato HD60 Pro 

6 SSD


----------



## Perceptron

HI,
For about 2 months I'm struggling to become Phanteks Enthoo Luxe (1) owner.
I really love that case, it's look , features (LEDs, 5,25 bays) and size. For me this chassis is almost perfect and I wouldn't consider any other case for now.
Unfortunately every Enthoo Luxe I've ordered so far came with flaw, a gap (mostly on one, right side)between front panel and the top panel. In some Enthoo Luxe I already had, gap was very wide in some it was less. But always it was too much, for my sense of aesthetics to not to return it to the seller and order another.
I've wrote to Phanteks and they confirmed that some chassis of this model in my region may have this flaw. They offered to send me top and front panel as replacement, but they pointed that new parts may not be much better. :|
I've declined with hope that next chassis I've order will be ok...that was 2 months and few cases ago. Now I'm kinda desperate 
I was hoping You guys could help and check if Your Enthoo Luxe, have this flaw or not.

Maybe I am oversensitive or something, but my old Cooler Master 690 II have all panels fitted perfectly.


----------



## doyll

Was just looking at new Luxe 2 / 719 case and noticed it doesn't list any fans as included and images show no fans either. Could someone who has one tell me if it comes with any fans please?


----------



## flyinion

doyll said:


> Was just looking at new Luxe 2 / 719 case and noticed it doesn't list any fans as included and images show no fans either. Could someone who has one tell me if it comes with any fans please?


That's correct it does not come with any fans. That allows you to put exactly what you want in it without potentially having leftover unneeded fans that you paid for but aren't using.


----------



## knightriot

Hi guy, i using phanteks luxe 2 , Can i put a XL-ATX on it? I have plan to buy an aorus trx40 extreme


----------



## MoDeNa

knightriot said:


> Hi guy, i using phanteks luxe 2 , Can i put a XL-ATX on it? I have plan to buy an aorus trx40 extreme


I am afraid you can't. This is what Phanteks offical site indicates for the Enthoo 719 motherboard support:

"Motherboard Support: ATX, EATX, uATX, mini ITX, SSI EEB"


----------



## D-EJ915

TMatzelle60 said:


> Would you guys consider the Luxe 2 a stupid investment if im doing air cooling with a single system build. Going to use the Noctua NH-D15s and do a all noctua build
> 
> MSI 2080ti
> Elgato HD60 Pro
> 
> 6 SSD


You'll have a lot of empty space so if you like the pc being empty as seen through the window it'll be fine. I wouldn't get it for that build though.


----------



## TMatzelle60

@shilka 

Why did you choose the luxe 2 if your doing a Air cooled build just want to know why?


----------



## shilka

TMatzelle60 said:


> @*shilka*
> 
> Why did you choose the luxe 2 if your doing a Air cooled build just want to know why?


 Like i said in my last post i needed a case with room for at least 8 HDD´s and all the other cases that has room for so many drives are either not available in Denmark cost too much or i simply dont like them

The Luxe 2 has room for 12 HDD´s x4 in the bottom where the ITX system also fits and x8 in the front

But with all the problems i have had with the new PC i am thinking of buying a NAS server and putting all the HDD in that instead of my gaming PC but i dont have money for that untill some time next year so the Luxe 2 / X570 has to do untill them

Or maybe i will build my own NAS server and install FreeNAS or something like it


----------



## TMatzelle60

Thanks 

I have the case ill most likely use only 3 SSD but for some reason I love the look of the case im trying to think when I do finish my build will it look stupid lol


----------



## shilka

I ordered the P600S to begin with but it was too small for the parts i have and all the HDD´s so i had to cancel the P600S but maybe i will re-use the Luxe 2 for the NAS server next year and buy a P600S for the gaming machine

A NAS server dont require super powerful hardware so maybe an AMD APU or something like it would do


----------



## TMatzelle60

My build is 

i7 9700K
MSI Z390 MEG ACE
MSI RTX 2080 Ti Trio X
Soundblack AE-9 Soundcard

Trying to figure if I should return the Luxe 2 and get the Evolv X


----------



## JustinThyme

shilka said:


> Like i said in my last post i needed a case with room for at least 8 HDD´s and all the other cases that has room for so many drives are either not available in Denmark cost too much or i simply dont like them
> 
> The Luxe 2 has room for 12 HDD´s x4 in the bottom where the ITX system also fits and x8 in the front
> 
> But with all the problems i have had with the new PC i am thinking of buying a NAS server and putting all the HDD in that instead of my gaming PC but i dont have money for that untill some time next year so the Luxe 2 / X570 has to do untill them
> 
> Or maybe i will build my own NAS server and install FreeNAS or something like it


A good NAS can run you in the poor house too.
My Qnap TVS682 has benn modded with a quad core I7 and a 10GB SFP+connection with 6 drives ATM and about to put a 12 bay expansion on and load it up. Freaking drives are still not cheap. Im loaded with all 8TB 7200 RPM drives


----------



## shilka

I am really not a huge fan of those Qnap and Synology NAS servers because if they break its a PITA to get it repaired or replaced
If i build my own PC for use as a NAS server i can buy new parts to replace anything that breaks

It does not need to be super powerful so a decent motherboard a decent quad core CPU with a built in GPU and some decent RAM should be all that is needed


----------



## boostedevo

Just got my Primo today have it gutted for parts. Evga dark 390 looks like it will be “Fun” with where the power is connected. Anyway the case is getting a 480 up top and down below. Just have to figure out which directions I want the push pull setup fans pointed in this case since it’s so big. Has anyone done intake on top, bottom, rear and moved exhaust out the front of this case?


----------



## JustinThyme

shilka said:


> I am really not a huge fan of those Qnap and Synology NAS servers because if they break its a PITA to get it repaired or replaced
> If i build my own PC for use as a NAS server i can buy new parts to replace anything that breaks
> 
> It does not need to be super powerful so a decent motherboard a decent quad core CPU with a built in GPU and some decent RAM should be all that is needed


Been running them for quite some time, never had a single issue. Have both Qnap and Synology. Yeah Ive had a PC Ive used in the past, problem is they cant match the raid performance with failure rates and are space and power hogs. On my Qnap and synology I started with 6 disks and a two disk failure tolerance. Just replace failed disk and it rebuilds the array without intervention. My older Synology has been spinning disks for nearly 10 years now. Second set of drives in it. When the first one failed after 7 years of spinning at 7200 rpms 24x7 365 I just bought an entire replacment and put them in 2 at a time. Ive not had to replace anything other than drives which will fail, its a matter of time. I spend the money on the high RPM 256GB cache NAS drives. These hold all my back ups and have not left me hanging........ever. Cant say the same for the half dozen PC builds Ive been through since the commissioning of my first dedicated NAS. Qnap and Synology parts are actually widely available and if the box and back plane craps you can replace that and just move the disks right over. I wouldnt do it any other way. Enterprise data centers do that same just on a much larger scale with blade servers. They have no computing power, simply data storage and they replace drives every 5 years proactively.

They have no GPU, PSU is built in and CPU is depending on what you use it for. A dual core is fine for simple file storage. My Qnap has a quad core because I use it as a plex media server to its trans coding on the fly.


----------



## flyinion

Has anyone figured out how many LED's total are on the two strips in the Luxe 2 (719)? Never had RGB until this build and thinking I should set the LED count in Aura software for better control. I know what my fans and reservoir ring have, but no idea how to figure out what's in the built in strips in the case.


----------



## MoDeNa

Hi all,

Finally I finished my new build in the Phanteks Enthoo 719. I am very happy with this case as it lets me cool a good amount of watts almost without silence impact.

This is the main hardware:

- Ryzen 9 3950x
- Gigabyte X570 Aorus Xtreme
- EVGA RTX 2080 Ti XC Ultra
- 32 GB (2x16) G.Skill Trident Z 3200MHz CL14
- Corsair MP600 - 1 TB
- 2x SSD Samsung 850 EVO 2 TB y 500 GB
- Seasonic Prime Titanium 850w

Water cooling config:

- 1x Alphacool NexXxos 480 XT45 V2
- 1x Alphacool NexXxos 360 XT45 V2
- 1x Alphacool NexXxos 360 ST30 V2
- Heatkiller IV Pro CPU block
- Heatkiller IV GPU block with backplate
- 15x Noctua NF-AF12x25 PWM
- Singularity Computers pump, cover & reservoir
- Aquaero 6 LT
- Bitspower fittings and PETG tube
- Fluid Mayhems X1 Clear 

With this setup at full load with fans spinning at 800-850 rpm coolant is at 31-32ºC (delta 10-11ºC).

I am very happy with it. These are some pics. Hope you like them:














































Thanks!


----------



## LethalSpoon

Great job, both with the build and the photos :drool:


----------



## CptAsian

MoDeNa said:


> Hi all,
> 
> Finally I finished my new build in the Phanteks Enthoo 719. I am very happy with this case as it lets me cool a good amount of watts almost without silence impact.
> 
> This is the main hardware:
> 
> - Ryzen 9 3950x
> - Gigabyte X570 Aorus Xtreme
> - EVGA RTX 2080 Ti XC Ultra
> - 32 GB (2x16) G.Skill Trident Z 3200MHz CL14
> - Corsair MP600 - 1 TB
> - 2x SSD Samsung 850 EVO 2 TB y 500 GB
> - Seasonic Prime Titanium 850w
> 
> Water cooling config:
> 
> - 1x Alphacool NexXxos 480 XT45 V2
> - 1x Alphacool NexXxos 360 XT45 V2
> - 1x Alphacool NexXxos 360 ST30 V2
> - Heatkiller IV Pro CPU block
> - Heatkiller IV GPU block with backplate
> - 15x Noctua NF-AF12x25 PWM
> - Singularity Computers pump, cover & reservoir
> - Aquaero 6 LT
> - Bitspower fittings and PETG tube
> - Fluid Mayhems X1 Clear
> 
> With this setup at full load with fans spinning at 800-850 rpm coolant is at 31-32ºC (delta 10-11ºC).
> 
> I am very happy with it. These are some pics. Hope you like them:
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks!


Wow, very impressive! Fantastic work.


----------



## shilka

The dumpster fire is working now and most if not all of the problems seem to have been solved at least for now
And yes i know the cable management sucks but after having had to take apart the whole PC and then back again 5-6 times already i dont give a damm anymore as long as it works

The second 140mm fan in the top has gotten in the way so many times that i did not re-install it


----------



## TMatzelle60

shilka said:


> The dumpster fire is working now and most if not all of the problems seem to have been solved at least for now
> And yes i know the cable management sucks but after having had to take apart the whole PC and then back again 5-6 times already i dont give a damm anymore as long as it works
> 
> The second 140mm fan in the top has gotten in the way so many times that i did not re-install it


Looks really good Shilka. I am currently working with JMMods to creat a custom acrylic MSI plate the size of a Mini ITX motherboard to show on the bottom ill have one with LED and another not and see what's better


----------



## xarot

I've had Phanteks Entroo Primo since 2014 and love it still, would like to squeeze in the Asus Dominus Extreme there (14" x 14"). It looks like the mobo uses standard ATX mounting but from the height side it's taller from the top VRM area only (comparing to my Rampage VI Extreme it's only longer from the top area by comparing the I/O shield position), so height should not be an issue. I already have the mobo and CPU. 

On the other hand, from width perspective it looks like it will not fit as the mobo tray is not wide enough and the area from where it connects to the 5.25" mounting area would come in the way. Also there seems to be a warped metal on the way at the right edge. Any tips how to mod the Prime? Just need to cut the mobo tray a bit and remove the 5.25" "mounting plate"? 

Would I do any adequate job with using a home Dremel only, and then sanding the edges of the mobo tray a bit and such? Would not like to get a new case, as this one has been fully approved by my wife.  Don't have the Dremel yet either...

Here's a pic of the current build with the Rampage VI Extreme mobo, which is only 27.7 cm wide compared to 35.6 cm width of the new board. Sorry if I am not making myself very clear at this hour, as English is not my primary language.


----------



## asdkj1740

del-------


----------



## doyll

shilka said:


> The dumpster fire is working now and most if not all of the problems seem to have been solved at least for now
> And yes i know the cable management sucks but after having had to take apart the whole PC and then back again 5-6 times already i dont give a damm anymore as long as it works
> 
> The second 140mm fan in the top has gotten in the way so many times that i did not re-install it


Glad it's finally working as it should. While not perfect, cable management is not terrible. I suspect after a month or so you might feel more like sorting it out. 




xarot said:


> I've had Phanteks Entroo Primo since 2014 and love it still, would like to squeeze in the Asus Dominus Extreme there (14" x 14"). It looks like the mobo uses standard ATX mounting but from the height side it's taller from the top VRM area only (comparing to my Rampage VI Extreme it's only longer from the top area by comparing the I/O shield position), so height should not be an issue. I already have the mobo and CPU.
> 
> On the other hand, from width perspective it looks like it will not fit as the mobo tray is not wide enough and the area from where it connects to the 5.25" mounting area would come in the way. Also there seems to be a warped metal on the way at the right edge. Any tips how to mod the Prime? Just need to cut the mobo tray a bit and remove the 5.25" "mounting plate"?
> 
> Would I do any adequate job with using a home Dremel only, and then sanding the edges of the mobo tray a bit and such? Would not like to get a new case, as this one has been fully approved by my wife.  Don't have the Dremel yet either...
> 
> Here's a pic of the current build with the Rampage VI Extreme mobo, which is only 27.7 cm wide compared to 35.6 cm width of the new board. Sorry if I am not making myself very clear at this hour, as English is not my primary language.


Nice looking build.
Sorry, Can't help with new mobo fit.


----------



## shilka

doyll said:


> Glad it's finally working as it should. While not perfect, cable management is not terrible. I suspect after a month or so you might feel more like sorting it out.


 It was the god damm AMD X570 chipset drivers that was the problem so reinstalled Windows 10 and its working now other than sometimes the motherboard wont boot and is making an 0d error so the top PCI-E slot might be faulty

Other than routing the 4 black SATA around the back there is really not much else i can do since the Luxe 2 has so little space for cables behind the motherboard tray

The old Luxe 1 was much better at this and i am in the process of slowly upgrading that PC the EVGA G2 has already been replaced by a brand new Seasonic Focus Plus GX 650 watt
Ordered an Arctic Cooling Accelero Twin Turbo II for the GTX 1060 to replace the blower style stock cooler and bought an AOC 24G2U monitor to replace the old LG monitor

Next upgrade is another X570 motherboard (probably the Asus X570 Strix-E) and a 3600 but i will re-use the NH-D15S and buy an AM4 kit for it and i will be keeping the RAM as well but i am not sure if X570 boards will work if i fill out all 4 RAM slots? its an older Kingston 32 GB HyperX Savage DDR4 3000 MHz kit

Edit: do you have any idea what a 3 year old Gigabyte X99 Ultra Gaming and an Intel 6850K which has never been overclocked would be worth today?


----------



## doyll

shilka said:


> It was the god damm AMD X570 chipset drivers that was the problem so reinstalled Windows 10 and its working now other than sometimes the motherboard wont boot and is making an 0d error so the top PCI-E slot might be faulty
> 
> Other than routing the 4 black SATA around the back there is really not much else i can do since the Luxe 2 has so little space for cables behind the motherboard tray
> 
> The old Luxe 1 was much better at this and i am in the process of slowly upgrading that PC the EVGA G2 has already been replaced by a brand new Seasonic Focus Plus GX 650 watt
> Ordered an Arctic Cooling Accelero Twin Turbo II for the GTX 1060 to replace the blower style stock cooler and bought an AOC 24G2U monitor to replace the old LG monitor
> 
> Next upgrade is another X570 motherboard (probably the Asus X570 Strix-E) and a 3600 but i will re-use the NH-D15S and buy an AM4 kit for it and i will be keeping the RAM as well but i am not sure if X570 boards will work if i fill out all 4 RAM slots? its an older Kingston 32 GB HyperX Savage DDR4 3000 MHz kit
> 
> Edit: do you have any idea what a 3 year old Gigabyte X99 Ultra Gaming and an Intel 6850K which has never been overclocked would be worth today?


Seems a lot of problems mostly caused by untested drivers, etc. 

Couldn't you contact Noctua for mount upgrade? 

https://noctua.at/en/nm-am4-mounting-kit
No idea of mobo and GPU value, but will ask a mate who buys/sells what he thinks, but not sure prices here are what it's worth there.


----------



## shilka

doyll said:


> Seems a lot of problems mostly caused by untested drivers, etc.
> 
> Couldn't you contact Noctua for mount upgrade?
> 
> https://noctua.at/en/nm-am4-mounting-kit
> No idea of mobo and GPU value, but will ask a mate who buys/sells what he thinks, but not sure prices here are what it's worth there.


 X570 motherboards cost a fortune so i was thinking its actually way cheaper to buy an MSI B450 or X470 Max motherboard and then buying a PCI-E card with more SATA ports and since its a backup machine it wont be turned on more than 3-4 times a month maybe even less so PCI-E 4,0 and all that other new stuff does not matter the least

Edit: an AM4 kit is only £8,5 and while i could get a free one from Noctua but it will take a while so maybe i will ask for one in in advance

Also danish prices are about 20% higher than in the UK and i just saw a guy a few days ago that was selling an Asus X99 Deluxe motherboard a Corsair H110 and a 6900K for 2900 kr which
is about £330 UK

I dont have a cooler to throw on top of the CPU and motherboard but i do have an old Samsung 840 Evo 500 GB i wont be re-using so i was thinking 2500 kr for all that = £285 UK
Is that asking too much you think?


----------



## doyll

shilka said:


> X570 motherboards cost a fortune so i was thinking its actually way cheaper to buy an MSI B450 or X470 Max motherboard and then buying a PCI-E card with more SATA ports and since its a backup machine it wont be turned on more than 3-4 times a month maybe even less so PCI-E 4,0 and all that other new stuff does not matter the least
> 
> Edit: an AM4 kit is only £8,5 and while i could get a free one from Noctua but it will take a while so maybe i will ask for one in in advance
> 
> Also danish prices are about 20% higher than in the UK and i just saw a guy a few days ago that was selling an Asus X99 Deluxe motherboard a Corsair H110 and a 6900K for 2900 kr which
> is about £330 UK
> 
> I dont have a cooler to throw on top of the CPU and motherboard but i do have an old Samsung 840 Evo 500 GB i wont be re-using so i was thinking 2500 kr for all that = £285 UK
> Is that asking too much you think?


 Indeed, I would request mount from Noctua just to have on hand in case ever needed.
Obviously shipping costs make it too expensive to ship out of country. Here i7-6850K is worth about £150-175 and motherboard about £75 on forums, a little more on ebay. 850 Evo 500mb SSD isn't worth much here, but nice extra to throw in. Only thing missing is RAM. Maybe with OS on the evo?


----------



## shilka

doyll said:


> Indeed, I would request mount from Noctua just to have on hand in case ever needed.
> Obviously shipping costs make it too expensive to ship out of country. Here i7-6850K is worth about £150-175 and motherboard about £75 on forums, a little more on ebay. 850 Evo 500mb SSD isn't worth much here, but nice extra to throw in. Only thing missing is RAM. Maybe with OS on the evo?


That would be around 2000 kr converted so if we add those 20% its 2400 kr which is fine
Its an 840 Evo not even an 850 or 860 thats how old it is so maybe i will just keep it as a spare, the only OS on the 840 Evo is my old Windows 7 install and i really dont think anyone wants that

And like i said i will be re-using the RAM and cooler since i dont see a reason to buy new
Its a quad kit but i assume it can work on X470? its a old 3000 MHz kit from 2016 so its not super fast these days but its a 32 GB kit


----------



## FeelKun

Just got a p600's. I'm wondering how you securely mount hard drive brackets next to the power supply? I know the little metal pieces at the bottom slide into place but they slide right out as soon as you move the case...


----------



## Astral85

FeelKun said:


> Just got a p600's. I'm wondering how you securely mount hard drive brackets next to the power supply? I know the little metal pieces at the bottom slide into place but they slide right out as soon as you move the case...


Try pushing the drive bracket more firmly into the lugs, it's sounds like your not grabbing the lugs properly. I have the same case...


----------



## shilka

FeelKun said:


> Just got a p600's. I'm wondering how you securely mount hard drive brackets next to the power supply? I know the little metal pieces at the bottom slide into place but they slide right out as soon as you move the case...


Speaking from much experience with the same mounts in the Luxe 2/719 i will state they are garbage and every time you want to move the case you are going to have to take the drives and all the cables out first otherwise they will fall out and drop on the floor or at least they will in the Luxe 2/719

Mount them in the main chamber in the mounts in the front they will be much much better secured and wont fall out and slide around every time you even look at the case

After seeing the new P500A from CES 2020 i think i am going to buy a shorter GPU when the next gen from Nvidia comes out as that will allow me to ditch the Luxe 2/719 which is just to big and really really dont like it in fact i despise it!

Edit: i am also going to ditch the Asrock X570 Taichi if there is going to be an X670 board without the chipset fan and with 8 SATA ports as i despise my motherbord almost as much as the case
The new P500A


----------



## Astral85

My hard drive is very secure in my P600S. Make sure you seat the bracket properly. Once lined up with the lugs push in to secure.


----------



## shilka

Astral85 said:


> My hard drive is very secure in my P600S. Make sure you seat the bracket properly. Once lined up with the lugs push in to secure.


 They are mounted the other way in the Luxe 2/719 so it does matter they will slide out no matter what which is why i am thinking abount moving them to the front but that will leave the whole bottom of the case completely empty and since i have stacked 4 HDD cages together i can no longer take them apart i have tired and no matter how much force i use they are stuck together and i am not buying more HDD cages 

The Luxe 2/719 is a crap case if you are only doing air cooling and dont have dual systems or dual PSU´s
The only reason i bought it is because my MSI GPU is too long to fit in the P600S it will block at least one of the front HDD mounts because of how long it is

When i first started this build i ordered the P600S but had to cancel it because of my GPU which was only a few months old at the time so i was not going to replace an almost new GPU just so it could fit in the P600S but now i wished i had done that

F the Luxe 2/719 so much and no i cant be bothered to clean up the cables its going to be re-done later this year so why bother

Edit: i still have my Luxe 1 TG case and its a shame you can no longer buy that case because i would much rather have another Luxe 1 TG than the P400A/P500A/P600S since its hassle to install 5,25 devices in those cases


----------



## Astral85

@shilka I hate to break the news but your GPU would have fit in the P600S. The P600S can fit 4xHDD cages at the backside underneath compartment. See image #12 here: http://www.phanteks.com/Eclipse-P600s.html


----------



## shilka

Astral85 said:


> @*shilka* I hate to break the news but your GPU would have fit in the P600S. The P600S can fit 4xHDD cages at the backside underneath compartment. See image #12 here: http://www.phanteks.com/Eclipse-P600s.html


 No it cant my PSU is too long and the cables needs room as well so there is only room for 2 in the bottom
I checked with a ruler so many times and if you go back in this thread i was talking alot about it and no the i cant use the P600S my GPU and PSU are too long

When the RTX 3xxx series drop i will be getting the shortest 70 card i can get and a P500A and i might even switch the PSU´s around so i am using the Prime Ultra in the old PC and the Focus Plus GX in the new PC since its shorter but i would prefer to use the Prime Ultra

With the parts i have now i can only fit 6 HDD´s in the P600S and thats not more than my old Luxe 1 so i cancelled my order and bought the Luxe 2/719 which is one of the worst cases i have ever bought

I also think the P600S is overpriced by the way so the new P500A at a lower price point is a much better option and with a shorter GPU i can fit all 5 of my drives in the main chamber with one to spare and two to spare in the bottom


----------



## Astral85

shilka said:


> No it cant my PSU is too long and the cables needs room as well so there is only room for 2 in the bottom
> I checked with a ruler so many times and if you go back in this thread i was talking alot about it and no the i cant use the P600S my GPU and PSU are too long
> 
> When the RTX 3xxx series drop i will be getting the shortest 70 card i can get and a P500A and i might even switch the PSU´s around so i am using the Prime Ultra in the old PC and the Focus Plus GX in the new PC since its shorter but i would prefer to use the Prime Ultra
> 
> With the parts i have now i can only fit 6 HDD´s in the P600S and thats not more than my old Luxe 1 so i cancelled my order and bought the Luxe 2/719 which is one of the worst cases i have ever bought
> 
> I also think the P600S is overpriced by the way so the new P500A at a lower price point is a much better option and with a shorter GPU i can fit all 5 of my drives in the main champer with one to spare and two to spare in the bottom


I don't understand, all of the PSU's in your specs are standard size ones...


----------



## matthew87

I was looking at the new Enthoo 719 and confused how it can support 360mm top radiator, 4x 120mm top fans, 3x 140mm top fans, yet NO 140mm based top radiators (140-280mm)

Anyone able to explain?


----------



## shilka

Astral85 said:


> I don't understand, all of the PSU's in your specs are standard size ones...


 The length is not standard it can go all the way from the smallest SFX PSU´s all the way to monster size 24 cm long PSU´s and if you have a long PSU there is not enough room for it and the cables if you have a HDD cage in front of it

If you want all 4 HDD cages in the bottom you need to have a PSU shorter than x length and my Prime Ultra is not the shortest PSU around therefore i am pretty sure it wont fit or it might be able to fit but then i have to bend all the cables up and over or around the HDD cages since there is so little space left

Compare the Seasonic Focus Plus GX to the EVGA G2 and then the Prime Ultra and you can see what i mean the Focus Plus GX might fit pretty sure the Prime Ultra cant and there is no way in hell the EVGA G2 will ever fit without taking out at least two of the HDD cages

Edit: it does not matter i already bought the Luxe 2/719 and canceled the P600S and i still think its overpriced and would rather wait for the new P500A which is the same case just with a new mesh front panel and a lower price

Or maybe i will buy another Enthoo Pro 1 before the Pro II comes and you cant get the 1 anymore


----------



## FeelKun

I tried to fit 4 hard drives at the bottom with the evga g2 850 it wouldn't fit. The only secure place I see the p600s holding hard drives is in the front of the case and using a thumb screw.


----------



## shilka

FeelKun said:


> I tried to fit 4 hard drives at the bottom with the evga g2 850 it wouldn't fit. The only secure place I see the p600s holding hard drives is in the front of the case and using a thumb screw.


 Which is what i want to do but cant since my GPU is 32,8cm long and would be blocking one or more of those HDD cage mounts in the front of the case
If i had picked one of the Gigabyte Windforce cards instead it would only have been 29cm long and it would have been able to fit 

I know that combo can work because i have seen pictures with a Windforce card and 6 HDD´s in the front of a P600S 

The MSI Gaming X Trio is just ridiculousy long so i will be replacing that early and putting it in my old machine and i will be buying a shorter RTX 3070 so i buy a P500A and have my HDD in the front without a ridiculousy long GPU blocking the mounts


----------



## flyinion

matthew87 said:


> I was looking at the new Enthoo 719 and confused how it can support 360mm top radiator, 4x 120mm top fans, 3x 140mm top fans, yet NO 140mm based top radiators (140-280mm)
> 
> 
> 
> Anyone able to explain?




Motherboard vrm clearance etc. 140 with fans will stick out too far. Fans on their own aren't thick enough to collide. I have a 360 up top and it barely clears the IO on my CH8


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## matthew87

flyinion said:


> Motherboard vrm clearance etc. 140 with fans will stick out too far. Fans on their own aren't thick enough to collide. I have a 360 up top and it barely clears the IO on my CH8
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


Then how can they list support for 360mm rads at the top too?

280mm top rad = not supported
360mm top rad = supported 
2 x 140mm top fan = supported

Doesn't sound like clearance of motherboard or vrm is the issue given 360mm radiators are listed as supported at the top.

140mm and 120mm fans both are typically 25mm thick, so identical.
360mm rad and 280mm rad, thickness can vary but typically similar depth/height. 

So how am i able to clear VRMs and motherboard components with a longer 360mm radiator, with the same height fans, but not with a 280mm. 

Why then does the case not at least list support for a single 140mm radiator up top? Surely i could put the radiator towards the top front of the case near the ODD if VRM or clearance was an issue.


----------



## shilka

Sory never mind


----------



## FeelKun

How's the preinstalled 140mm fans airflow wise? I'm guessing it's these https://www.newegg.com/phanteks-ph-..._re=phanteks_140mm_fan-_-35-709-046-_-Product

Looking at adding another 140mm intake fan for the hdds I don't think 45C is good


----------



## flyinion

matthew87 said:


> Then how can they list support for 360mm rads at the top too?
> 
> 
> 
> 280mm top rad = not supported
> 
> 360mm top rad = supported
> 
> 2 x 140mm top fan = supported
> 
> 
> 
> Doesn't sound like clearance of motherboard or vrm is the issue given 360mm radiators are listed as supported at the top.
> 
> 
> 
> 140mm and 120mm fans both are typically 25mm thick, so identical.
> 
> 360mm rad and 280mm rad, thickness can vary but typically similar depth/height.
> 
> 
> 
> So how am i able to clear VRMs and motherboard components with a longer 360mm radiator, with the same height fans, but not with a 280mm.
> 
> 
> 
> Why then does the case not at least list support for a single 140mm radiator up top? Surely i could put the radiator towards the top front of the case near the ODD if VRM or clearance was an issue.




Because they're also wider. My 360 with fans sticks down enough to nearly cover the debug LED on my CH8. You might be able to get something up there depending on your individual components or if you're willing to mod the case. Phanteks just isn't listing it as supported. 


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## matthew87

flyinion said:


> Because they're also wider. My 360 with fans sticks down enough to nearly cover the debug LED on my CH8. You might be able to get something up there depending on your individual components or if you're willing to mod the case. Phanteks just isn't listing it as supported.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


Clearly if it can fit 140mm fans it can fit 140mm based radiators.... 

In short, you don't know.


----------



## flyinion

Clearly you don't own the case I do. 


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## doyll

FeelKun said:


> How's the preinstalled 140mm fans airflow wise? I'm guessing it's these https://www.newegg.com/phanteks-ph-..._re=phanteks_140mm_fan-_-35-709-046-_-Product
> 
> Looking at adding another 140mm intake fan for the hdds I don't think 45C is good


 What case? Many of the new cases come with no fans.




matthew87 said:


> Clearly if it can fit 140mm fans it can fit 140mm based radiators....
> 
> In short, you don't know.


 Image below of Luxe 2 top. 140mm fan / radiator use same slots as 120mm on near side, but are 20mm closer to motherboard on at far side. 








I think what flyinion is saying is with his motherboard there is not the 20mm needed between far side of his 120mm fans to fit 140mm fans, which means 140mm radiator will not fit in when his motherboard is used.


----------



## JustinThyme

flyinion said:


> Because they're also wider. My 360 with fans sticks down enough to nearly cover the debug LED on my CH8. You might be able to get something up there depending on your individual components or if you're willing to mod the case. Phanteks just isn't listing it as supported.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk





matthew87 said:


> Clearly if it can fit 140mm fans it can fit 140mm based radiators....
> 
> In short, you don't know.





flyinion said:


> Clearly you don't own the case I do.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


This could be the difference in what rads and fans. Rads run 30,45 and 60mm for the most part and fans can vary in thickness by 10mm easy. That makes a big difference between a 30mm thick rad and low profile fans and a 60mm with fat daddy fans on it. Like more than twice as thick. 

Even in my enthoo elite with a 480 in the roof the 60mm rad with corsair LL series 120mm fans its a tight fit as in barely fits. The bottom of the fans are pretty much even with the top of the MOBO making it extremely difficult to get to connections up top.


----------



## chibi

P500A looks like an interesting case. I had the P600S briefly and returned it due to the front panel and overall rugged look. This may be my return to Phanteks, my Meshify C now is good for air, but too compact if I return to watercooling.

Let's see more reviews come March!


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## flyinion

*[Official] Case PHANTEKS Case Club for lovers &amp; owners*

Hard to get a good shot with the water-cooling hoses in the way but this is 120's on a 30mm alphacool 360 ST30 V2. Don't think a 140 is fitting there especially if it's over 30mm and/or if you use taller RAM. Pic doesn't make it clear but fan comes just below the top edge of the RAM module. Added a second pic showing overall view. You can see how far down just a 30mm rad and fans comes




















Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## FeelKun

doyll said:


> What case? Many of the new cases come with no fans..



p600s


----------



## Astral85

matthew87 said:


> Then how can they list support for 360mm rads at the top too?
> 
> 280mm top rad = not supported
> 360mm top rad = supported
> 2 x 140mm top fan = supported
> 
> Doesn't sound like clearance of motherboard or vrm is the issue given 360mm radiators are listed as supported at the top.
> 
> 140mm and 120mm fans both are typically 25mm thick, so identical.
> 360mm rad and 280mm rad, thickness can vary but typically similar depth/height.
> 
> So how am i able to clear VRMs and motherboard components with a longer 360mm radiator, with the same height fans, but not with a 280mm.
> 
> Why then does the case not at least list support for a single 140mm radiator up top? Surely i could put the radiator towards the top front of the case near the ODD if VRM or clearance was an issue.


They're talking about the horizontal clearance not vertical. Well actually both. If you put say a 40mm thick 420 rad + 140mm fans up the top those fans are going to crash into the the top of your VRM heatsink and or block off any headers at the top of the motherboard because they are wider than the 120mm. The 360mm rad + 120mm fans will sit further forward from the VRM and motherboard allowing the clearance. From what I have seen the motherboard in the Enthoo 719 sits very close to the top of the chassis so there isn't a lot of clearance...


----------



## Astral85

matthew87 said:


> Clearly if it can fit 140mm fans it can fit 140mm based radiators....
> 
> In short, you don't know.


Maybe the fans themselves without a radiator but once the fans come down low enough they're going to crash into something.


----------



## JustinThyme

flyinion said:


> Hard to get a good shot with the water-cooling hoses in the way but this is 120's on a 30mm alphacool 360 ST30 V2. Don't think a 140 is fitting there especially if it's over 30mm and/or if you use taller RAM. Pic doesn't make it clear but fan comes just below the top edge of the RAM module. Added a second pic showing overall view. You can see how far down just a 30mm rad and fans comes
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


a

Yeah that’s packing it in pretty tight. 
My Corsair LL fans 120 and 140 are the same thickness. There are lower profile but question is do they have the static pressure needed for a rad.


----------



## FeelKun

Can't really find any information on the included stock fans with the p600s(?). Kind of wondering if I should just add another 140mm similar to have 3 front intakes or replace stock intakes + stock exhaust? 

With the mesh front + "sound dampening" front panel would that have any impact on the fans sp vs af Phanteks fan 140mm or Noctua 140mm?


----------



## ciarlatano

FeelKun said:


> Can't really find any information on the included stock fans with the p600s(?). Kind of wondering if I should just add another 140mm similar to have 3 front intakes or replace stock intakes + stock exhaust?
> 
> With the mesh front + "sound dampening" front panel would that have any impact on the fans sp vs af Phanteks fan 140mm or Noctua 140mm?


They are an F140MP impeller on an F140SP motor. Essentially a 1200 rpm F140MP.


----------



## boostedevo

Where can I get an Elite for a good price ?


----------



## doyll

FeelKun said:


> Can't really find any information on the included stock fans with the p600s(?). Kind of wondering if I should just add another 140mm similar to have 3 front intakes or replace stock intakes + stock exhaust?
> 
> With the mesh front + "sound dampening" front panel would that have any impact on the fans sp vs af Phanteks fan 140mm or Noctua 140mm?


 What cairlatano said about fans. 

Phanteks PH-F140MP are better than NF-A14 as you can see in below data










Shop around for 2-pack or 3-pack of PH-F140MP. Here in UK 2-pac is £16.26, only £8.13 each. 



You only need good intake fans (PH-F140MP) in your case. I suggest removing all PCIe back slot covers because even vented ones block about 50% of opening lowering airflow even more. Taking them out increases rear vent area around GPU improving front to back aiflow and giving lower temps. I would use 3x front intakes with all openings in fan mounting panel not covered by fans blocked off to stop air fans are bring into case from leaking back in front of them. That way the air fans are pushing into case has to move through case and out back. 

You might find basic guide to how airflow works and how to optimize case airflow in link below helpful.
https://www.overclock.net/forum/22319249-post5.html


----------



## FeelKun

doyll said:


> What cairlatano said about fans.
> 
> Phanteks PH-F140MP are better than NF-A14 as you can see in below data
> 
> Shop around for 2-pack or 3-pack of PH-F140MP. Here in UK 2-pac is £16.26, only £8.13 each.
> 
> 
> 
> You only need good intake fans (PH-F140MP) in your case. I suggest removing all PCIe back slot covers because even vented ones block about 50% of opening lowering airflow even more. Taking them out increases rear vent area around GPU improving front to back aiflow and giving lower temps. I would use 3x front intakes with all openings in fan mounting panel not covered by fans blocked off to stop air fans are bring into case from leaking back in front of them. That way the air fans are pushing into case has to move through case and out back.
> 
> You might find basic guide to how airflow works and how to optimize case airflow in link below helpful.
> https://www.overclock.net/forum/22319249-post5.html


Thanks! Ordered ph-140mp going to see how it compares to stock fans noise wise if all goes well i'll order two more.


----------



## Krisztias

matthew87 said:


> Clearly if it can fit 140mm fans it can fit 140mm based radiators....
> 
> In short, you don't know.


No, because it will collide with the memory.


----------



## JustinThyme

boostedevo said:


> Where can I get an Elite for a good price ?


They are about the same everywhere. 
$900

I got mine on a sale just over a year ago for $100 less. 
Great case, so many ways to set it up and it comes with virtually everything. I’ll not have to buy another case, ever.


----------



## boostedevo

Yea I caved and got one lol. The primo I have is only a month old but he was lonely. The elite is pretty amazing so far, just planning all the rads it’s gonna get


----------



## LOKI23NY

Any Enthoo 719 (luxe 2) owners that can shed some light on the proper wiring for the pwn fan hub? I have my fans plugged into the hub and the main wire from the hub is connected to sys fan 1. Sata cable is also connected. I'm not getting any changes in fan speed as the cpu temp changes. 

Does the white 3/4 pin universal connector need to be connected to the motherboard? 

The documentation included with the case barely provides any info at all and the manual states you can check the faq online, but there isn't anything listed.


----------



## shilka

You need to hook the 4 pin cable from the fan hub into an actual motherboard PWM fan header and not all 4 pin headers on older motherboards support PWM on all its fan headers

I have an old X99 motherboard with four or five 4 pin fans headers but only two of those support PWM which means that if i plug the fan hub into a non PWM fan header everything works i just cant change the speed

Please list your motherboard


----------



## LOKI23NY

shilka said:


> You need to hook the 4 pin cable from the fan hub into an actual motherboard PWM fan header and not all 4 pin headers on older motherboards support PWM on all its fan headers
> 
> I have an old X99 motherboard with four or five 4 pin fans headers but only two of those support PWM which means that if i plug the fan hub into a non PWM fan header everything works i just cant change the speed
> 
> Please list your motherboard



MSI MEG x570 Unify

I'm going to go through the manual and check to verify that the fan header I'm using currently supports pwm.


----------



## shilka

LOKI23NY said:


> MSI MEG x570 Unify
> 
> I'm going to go through the manual and check to verify that the fan header I'm using currently supports pwm.


 A board that new should support PWM on all its headers but you never know 
Your fans are 4 pin PWM fans plugged into 4 pin PWM headers on the hub right?

If not that might be why you cant control the fans i had the same problem with my old case with its old 3 pin fans when i was using my X570 board in the old case no matter what i did i was unable to control the fans since my board does not support the older 3 pin fans for some damm reason


----------



## Gilles3000

LOKI23NY said:


> MSI MEG x570 Unify
> 
> I'm going to go through the manual and check to verify that the fan header I'm using currently supports pwm.


Make sure your sys 1 header is reacting to CPU temperatures, I've set up a few B450/X570 boards now and some have the system fans linked to motherboard/case temp by default, so just switch it to cpu if that's the case.


----------



## LOKI23NY

shilka said:


> A board that new should support PWM on all its headers but you never know
> Your fans are 4 pin PWM fans plugged into 4 pin PWM headers on the hub right?
> 
> If not that might be why you cant control the fans i had the same problem with my old case with its old 3 pin fans when i was using my X570 board in the old case no matter what i did i was unable to control the fans since my board does not support the older 3 pin fans for some damm reason


So I doubled checked and all the fan headers will function as pwm, and can be toggled in the bios. I had already done this the first time I booted into the bios after putting the machine together. I decided to play around with the fan wiring and made sure at least one of the fans was plugged into the white connector on the hub and the fans are now working properly. 

I glanced right by the small triangle at the bottom of the instructions that notes "the white connector will provide the rpm signal to the motherboard". My eyes went straight to steps 1,2,3 instead of looking at the bottom of the page for this needed info. I was sitting here shaking my head telling myself "You know better, read everything twice and don't glance past anything!"


----------



## sakete

So reading through this thread multiple pages, the Enthoo 719 is not a case worth getting, huh? Better off with a 011 XL? Will be doing my first custom loop build later this year.

I'd actually love the Corsair 1000D (coming from a Corsair 750D). But it might actually be too big for my needs. Wonder if Corsair has an updated and modernized 750D in the works.


----------



## AlphaC

FeelKun said:


> How's the preinstalled 140mm fans airflow wise? I'm guessing it's these https://www.newegg.com/phanteks-ph-..._re=phanteks_140mm_fan-_-35-709-046-_-Product
> 
> Looking at adding another 140mm intake fan for the hdds I don't think 45C is good


From 9:05 time:


Spoiler







 and https://nl.hardware.info/artikel/9027/phanteks-eclipse-p600s-behuizing-review-het-nieuwe-flexibel)

The P500A is going to have the same _chassis_ as the P600S so I wouldn't expect it to outperform the Meshify S2 by much overall since the best case scenario is inline with the P600S results with no front panel at all. GPU temps are likely to be better however due to fan position and slightly less restriction at the front (the GPU tested was EVGA GTX 1080 FTW @65% which is supposedly ~1800RPM, CPU was [email protected] 4.8GHz cooled by NH-U12S @ 2000RPM).


Meshify S2 , 1000RPM case fans = 48.9°C delta CPU , 69.9°C delta GPU

P600S no front panel, 1000RPM case fans = 50.6°C delta CPU , 58.6°C delta GPU
P600S front panel open , 1000RPM case fans = 52.1 , 61.1°C delta GPU









Also if you look at the Meshify C with standardized fans versus P400A (similar size) the results are similar:
https://www.gamersnexus.net/hwrevie...al-rgb-case-review-airflow-mesh-panel-testing


Phanteks P400A = 44.3°C delta CPU temp with two Noctua NF-A14 intakes (48.2°C delta with stock fans) ; 51.4°C delta GPU temp (49.1°C delta with stock fans)

Meshify C = 46.9°C delta CPU temp with two Noctua NF-A14 intakes (54.3°C delta with stock fans) ; 54.6°C delta GPU temp (57.8°C delta with stock fans)


----------



## flyinion

sakete said:


> So reading through this thread multiple pages, the Enthoo 719 is not a case worth getting, huh? Better off with a 011 XL? Will be doing my first custom loop build later this year.
> 
> 
> 
> I'd actually love the Corsair 1000D (coming from a Corsair 750D). But it might actually be too big for my needs. Wonder if Corsair has an updated and modernized 750D in the works.




There are times when I think I should have gone with the XL instead but I didn't want to wait for it to come back in stock a few months ago. If I find a solid lead that won't fall through on me for selling the 719 in a couple months when I try out swapping to hard line tubing then I might do it but the 719 is a large case and going to be a harder sell than the coolermaster H500M I was coming from. I like the 719 though, just worried I'll never actually use its potential. I planned to keep it for a long time when I bought it and figured eventually I'd utilize it more fully. 


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## shilka

Heard that the P500A might come out at the end of march and that the next gen of Nvidia GPU´s might also come out around there as well
Sounds like i will be ditching my MSI RTX 2070 Super Gaming X Trio and will be buying a shorter card so it can fit in a P500A with HDD cages in the front


----------



## AlphaC

@*shilka* if you look at the P600S page it's 294mm GPU limit with HDD cages in front : http://www.phanteks.com/Eclipse-P600s.html

so you could fit something similar to the EVGA RTX 2070 Super XC Ultra triple slot cooler (270mm) or the RTX 2070 SUPER XC ULTRA+ but not the 302mm long _FTW3_ , Gigabyte RTX 2070 Super Gaming OC triple fan will be a much tighter fit at 286 or 287mm but the fans will be smaller so the RPM might be a bit higher

ASUS STRIX is out of the question as it's 300mm ; the "DUAL" version is a tier lower and is 267mm long
MSI's ARMOR version is 297mm long in comparison to your 328mm long Gaming X TRIO; the "normal" Gaming x dual fan is 295mm so it's just too long

Palit's RTX 2070 Super Jetstream might be another option but at 292mm I'd say it's too close for comfort.

Lower end offerings from Zotac are probably going to be subpar as far as fans and power delivery go, you likely don't want a large downgrade on those fronts. In addition GALAX coolers are long (285 for base dual fan and 320mm for triple fan) as well. It's an issue stemming from the use of triple fans.

Pricingwise it looks like Gigabyte's triple fan is cheaper however at ~4300 kroner for the lowest one and ~4600 kroner for the Gaming OC pre overclocked ones whereas the EVGA XC Ultra is around 5000 kroner, 
https://www.proshop.dk/Grafikkort/GIGABYTE-GeForce-RTX-2070-SUPER-WindForce-OC-8GB-GDDR6-RAM-Grafikkort/2797958 https://www.power.dk/pc-og-tilbehoe...-rtx-2070-super-gaming-oc-8-gb-gpu/p-1012008/

https://www.proshop.dk/Grafikkort/EVGA-GeForce-RTX-2070-SUPER-8GB-GDDR6-RAM-Grafikkort/2790750
https://www.proshop.dk/Grafikkort/P...er-JetStream-8GB-GDDR6-RAM-Grafikkort/2788628


----------



## shilka

AlphaC said:


> @*shilka* if you look at the P600S page it's 294mm GPU limit with HDD cages in front : http://www.phanteks.com/Eclipse-P600s.html
> 
> so you could fit something similar to the EVGA RTX 2070 Super XC Ultra triple slot cooler (270mm) or the RTX 2070 SUPER XC ULTRA+ but not the 302mm long _FTW3_ , Gigabyte RTX 2070 Super Gaming OC triple fan will be a much tighter fit at 286 or 287mm but the fans will be smaller so the RPM might be a bit higher
> 
> ASUS STRIX is out of the question as it's 300mm ; the "DUAL" version is a tier lower and is 267mm long
> MSI's ARMOR version is 297mm long in comparison to your 328mm long Gaming X TRIO; the "normal" Gaming x dual fan is 295mm so it's just too long
> 
> Palit's RTX 2070 Super Jetstream might be another option but at 292mm I'd say it's too close for comfort.
> 
> Lower end offerings from Zotac are probably going to be subpar as far as fans and power delivery go, you likely don't want a large downgrade on those fronts. In addition GALAX coolers are long (285 for base dual fan and 320mm for triple fan) as well. It's an issue stemming from the use of triple fans.
> 
> Pricingwise it looks like Gigabyte's triple fan is cheaper however at ~4300 kroner for the lowest one and ~4600 kroner for the Gaming OC pre overclocked ones whereas the EVGA XC Ultra is around 5000 kroner,
> https://www.proshop.dk/Grafikkort/GIGABYTE-GeForce-RTX-2070-SUPER-WindForce-OC-8GB-GDDR6-RAM-Grafikkort/2797958 https://www.power.dk/pc-og-tilbehoe...-rtx-2070-super-gaming-oc-8-gb-gpu/p-1012008/
> 
> https://www.proshop.dk/Grafikkort/EVGA-GeForce-RTX-2070-SUPER-8GB-GDDR6-RAM-Grafikkort/2790750
> https://www.proshop.dk/Grafikkort/P...er-JetStream-8GB-GDDR6-RAM-Grafikkort/2788628


 I am probably going with a Gigabyte Windforce or Aorus for my next card if the sizes stay the same
I dont really like the EVGA cards i think they are ugly as sin but if the next gen look better i might consider EVGA again

At this point in time there is zero info on Nvidia Ampere or any third party cards so i will have a look when there is any info

Edit: i only use https://www.computersalg.dk/ by the way since their shop is very close to where i live so returning stuff is so much easier and cheaper than shipping it with the worst mail service in the world

Another thing i could do is to make my old X99 PC a pure gaming PC and just buy a GTX 1660 Super or another short budget GPU for my main PC thus spliting my up my work / media / server PC into one machine and the other just a pure gaming machine but that means more costs in the long run since i then have to buy another 1440P high refresh monitor and some speakers or another headphone amp / DAC combo


----------



## DarthBaggins

I'm sure we will find out more on Ampere in the next couple of months :ninja:


----------



## shilka

DarthBaggins said:


> I'm sure we will find out more on Ampere in the next couple of months :ninja:


 I am flatout broke untill at least april anyway
Damm health insurance eats a whole month budget alone

Edit: this is the present state of my second PC setup and the PC setup my best friend has with me and i need to get another black desk instead of that old wood dinner table because none of the chairs are low enough to slide under the old dinner table which is annoying

All 3 PC´s are using Phanteks cases by the way


----------



## chibi

AlphaC said:


> P500A isn't going to be massively better than Fractal design meshify series going off Dmitry's numbers off Phanteks' airflow testing at CES. It's about 15% difference based off the mesh itself (Fractal has a foam inside which is why there's that difference) whereas the fabric mesh with filter installed on P600S/Luxe 2/Pro 2 is going to be ~40% more airflow.
> 
> If you recall, the P600S performed within degrees of Meshify S2 which has a smaller volume but the Meshify S2 has better CPU temps with the front panel installed. (see https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l_FGnHj6Amk and https://nl.hardware.info/artikel/9027/phanteks-eclipse-p600s-behuizing-review-het-nieuwe-flexibel)
> 
> The P500A is going to have the same _chassis_ as the P600S so I wouldn't expect it to outperform the Meshify S2 by much overall since the best case scenario is inline with the P600S results with no front panel at all. GPU temps are likely to be better however due to fan position and slightly less restriction at the front (the GPU tested was EVGA GTX 1080 FTW @65% which is supposedly ~1800RPM, CPU was [email protected] 4.8GHz cooled by NH-U12S @ 2000RPM).
> 
> 
> Meshify S2 , 1000RPM case fans = 48.9°C delta CPU , 69.9°C delta GPU
> 
> P600S no front panel, 1000RPM case fans = 50.6°C delta CPU , 58.6°C delta GPU
> P600S front panel open , 1000RPM case fans = 52.1 , 61.1°C delta GPU
> View attachment 320380
> 
> 
> 
> Also if you look at the Meshify C with standardized fans versus P400A (similar size) the results are similar:
> https://www.gamersnexus.net/hwrevie...al-rgb-case-review-airflow-mesh-panel-testing
> 
> 
> Phanteks P400A = 44.3°C delta CPU temp with two Noctua NF-A14 intakes (48.2°C delta with stock fans) ; 51.4°C delta GPU temp (49.1°C delta with stock fans)
> 
> Meshify C = 46.9°C delta CPU temp with two Noctua NF-A14 intakes (54.3°C delta with stock fans) ; 54.6°C delta GPU temp (57.8°C delta with stock fans)



Meshify C is a great case for air cooling no doubt. It's just a tad bit small should I decide to jump back to custom watercooling in the future. The P500A will manage both Air cooling for now and have the future WC potential. :thumb:


----------



## Akhenaton

Hi guys, I have an ASRock Steel Legend and an Enthoo Luxe (first version). Is it possible to synchronize its led with the motherboard using an adapter like this? Thanks.


----------



## owcraftsman

Looking for some help from the Phanteks rep. I need 4-panel clips 2 for my Primo and 2 for Luxe case top panel/filter. Those push to release pins have gone bad again and I need some replacements. I have reached out via Phanteks support ticket, Phanteks forum, and Twiter with no official response, so this is my last resort. I do not expect to get them for free I just need them at a reasonable cost. Can you help?


----------



## thekingbeyond

I use this with my luxe and asrock x370 killer sli motherboard

PRODUCT CODE : PH-CB_RGB4P 

http://www.phanteks.com/PH-CB_RGB4P.html




Akhenaton said:


> Hi guys, I have an ASRock Steel Legend and an Enthoo Luxe (first version). Is it possible to synchronize its led with the motherboard using an adapter like this? Thanks.


----------



## thekingbeyond

owcraftsman said:


> Looking for some help from the Phanteks rep. I need 4-panel clips 2 for my Primo and 2 for Luxe case top panel/filter. Those push to release pins have gone bad again and I need some replacements. I have reached out via Phanteks support ticket, Phanteks forum, and Twiter with no official response, so this is my last resort. I do not expect to get them for free I just need them at a reasonable cost. Can you help?



I bought a couple of these and they do fit the top panel/filter of the luxe

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2x-Push-...h=item2ef5cf0063:g:R5wAAOSwECZUq92l:rk:1:pf:0


----------



## owcraftsman

thekingbeyond said:


> I bought a couple of these and they do fit the top panel/filter of the luxe
> 
> https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2x-Push-...h=item2ef5cf0063:g:R5wAAOSwECZUq92l:rk:1:pf:0


Yeah, TY I found this too couple days ago but thought to avoid high shipping cost for a cheap part if I could. 

Unless there is a Holiday in the UK I'm not aware of that last a week or more this seems odd.











Also odd is no response from customer service, I get it, both cases are old, so tell me you are sorry and can't help but to leave me in the lurch... not good.


----------



## thekingbeyond

owcraftsman said:


> Yeah, TY I found this too couple days ago but thought to avoid high shipping cost for a cheap part if I could.
> 
> Unless there is a Holiday in the UK I'm not aware of that last a week or more this seems odd.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also odd is no response from customer service, I get it, both cases are old, so tell me you are sorry and can't help but to leave me in the lurch... not good.



I contacted customer services a few weeks ago, the front headphone socket had got damage. They replied next day via email and the part was received 4 days later. Not sure if it makes a difference you being in the usa though.
Hope you get sorted.

http://www.phanteks.com/contact-us.html


----------



## doyll

owcraftsman said:


> Looking for some help from the Phanteks rep. I need 4-panel clips 2 for my Primo and 2 for Luxe case top panel/filter. Those push to release pins have gone bad again and I need some replacements. I have reached out via Phanteks support ticket, Phanteks forum, and Twiter with no official response, so this is my last resort. I do not expect to get them for free I just need them at a reasonable cost. Can you help?


 What thekingbeyond said. :thumb:

Phanteks support:
USA and Canada  * +1(909)598-2115*
callto:+19095982115
 [email protected]​These "snap in grabber latches" are standard production, not custom to Phanteks. You might find them in custom fittings and hardware supply house or similar. Maybe a woodworking hobby shop.

Phanteks staff don't usually read forums.so not likely to see your request.


----------



## Akhenaton

thekingbeyond said:


> I use this with my luxe and asrock x370 killer sli motherboard
> 
> PRODUCT CODE : PH-CB_RGB4P
> 
> http://www.phanteks.com/PH-CB_RGB4P.html


Nice, thanks


----------



## owcraftsman

doyll said:


> What thekingbeyond said. :thumb:
> 
> Phanteks support:
> USA and Canada  * +1(909)598-2115*
> callto:+19095982115
> [email protected]​These "snap in grabber latches" are standard production, not custom to Phanteks. You might find them in custom fittings and hardware supply house or similar. Maybe a woodworking hobby shop.
> 
> Phanteks staff don't usually read forums.so not likely to see your request.


Shortly after the post here Bill (PhanteksUSA) reached out to me and said he would mail them but asked for a receipt. Took me a while to find it from 2015 but I did an sent it back waiting to here back again now. It's not clear if it was the post here or the ticket I started. If it was the ticket only it took them from 4 days to reply Jan 25th (Sat.) to Wednesday the 29th which is pretty good.

Turns out I threw him a curveball because I lost one of the front panel cables for Reset and PLED to the motherboard. I must have lost it when I was custom painting the interior of the case. I assume he is looking to get that for me as well. I sure hope so. I'll report back when all is resolved one way or the other. 

Thanks for all the help!


----------



## lightsout

Late to the party but liking the new mesh Phanteks case. I always go back and forth between big and small cases. My Enthoo Pro became my server case. 

Might move up from my current V21 into one of these down the road. Don't really have a need but like the room.


----------



## sakete

flyinion said:


> There are times when I think I should have gone with the XL instead but I didn't want to wait for it to come back in stock a few months ago. If I find a solid lead that won't fall through on me for selling the 719 in a couple months when I try out swapping to hard line tubing then I might do it but the 719 is a large case and going to be a harder sell than the coolermaster H500M I was coming from. I like the 719 though, just worried I'll never actually use its potential. I planned to keep it for a long time when I bought it and figured eventually I'd utilize it more fully.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


So I ended up getting the 011 XL at first. Great and nicely built case. I just ran into one major problem, which was that the HDDs in the second chamber were hitting temps of 57C. I even added a 80mm fan to blow over the cages, but those cages are almost completely sealed, with just a few small holes. Didn't make a difference. And with most HDDs, temps above 45C will severely shorten lifespan.

So I'll be returning the 011 XL and have instead ordered the 719 case. Totally overkill for my current system, but I will upgrade to new stuff later this year and will go full custom watercooling. Hoping the 719 won't disappoint, as I'm really bummed the 011 XL didn't work out. I need 3-4 HDDs so that case is a no go. Just a terrible design oversight.


----------



## sakete

So the 719 case has a PWM fan hub, where the white header can be connected to the motherboard to provide a RPM signal. How can I individually control the fans attached to this PWM hub though? My motherboard has 5 built-in PWM fan headers and I can set fan curves for each of those individually. If I connect the hub to the motherboard, will those additional headers appear there as well? Or will they just always run at full speed? It's not very well documented in the manual.


----------



## shilka

sakete said:


> So the 719 case has a PWM fan hub, where the white header can be connected to the motherboard to provide a RPM signal. How can I individually control the fans attached to this PWM hub though? My motherboard has 5 built-in PWM fan headers and I can set fan curves for each of those individually. If I connect the hub to the motherboard, will those additional headers appear there as well? Or will they just always run at full speed? It's not very well documented in the manual.


 If you hook fans up to the hub the motherboard will see the hub and all fans as one device which you can control but not all the fans individually its all treated as one device
Have you considered getting one type of fans for everything instead of the odd mix of fans you got


----------



## sakete

shilka said:


> If you hook fans up to the hub the motherboard will see the hub and all fans as one device which you can control but not all the fans individually its all treated as one device
> Have you considered getting one type of fans for everything instead of the odd mix of fans you got


Not getting anymore fans until I do my watercooling build later this year. For now I'll deal with this odd mix of fans (am re-using the case fans that came with my old Corsair 750D, along with a few Noctua fans I bought recently). For now I am pairing up similar fans with splitters onto one port, so they are controlled similarly.

I may just invest in an Aquaero 6 LT + OCTO, as I was planning on getting that anyway for my watercooling build, which will allow me to control more fans individually.


----------



## bhoot

Same fans is more convenient. If you have different fans then stick the same ones on the hub and the rest directly to mobo. Alternatively buy some mini PWM hubs. Keep things simple. 

Sent from my SM-G975F using Tapatalk


----------



## sakete

bhoot said:


> Same fans is more convenient. If you have different fans then stick the same ones on the hub and the rest directly to mobo. Alternatively buy some mini PWM hubs. Keep things simple.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G975F using Tapatalk


I don't disagree with you, but for now it doesn't make sense for me to buy anymore fans without knowing what my eventual watercooling setup will look like. I'll need to start figuring out which radiators along with which fans. 
Currently thinking of getting a 360 for the top as exhaust and 480 for the front as intake, with a few 120mm side intake fans, bottom 140mm intake fan and rear 140mm exhaust. Alternatively another 240 rad on the bottom as intake, but not sure how it will all fit together as I also have my HDDs at the bottom in the back.

I'm also waiting for the Noctua NF-A12x25 chromax fans to come out, which should be later this year, as my #1 priority in this build will be low noise levels, and those Noctuas give the best performance at any given noise output.


----------



## bhoot

sakete said:


> I don't disagree with you, but for now it doesn't make sense for me to buy anymore fans without knowing what my eventual watercooling setup will look like. I'll need to start figuring out which radiators along with which fans.
> 
> Currently thinking of getting a 360 for the top as exhaust and 480 for the front as intake, with a few 120mm side intake fans, bottom 140mm intake fan and rear 140mm exhaust. Alternatively another 240 rad on the bottom as intake, but not sure how it will all fit together as I also have my HDDs at the bottom in the back.
> 
> 
> 
> I'm also waiting for the Noctua NF-A12x25 chromax fans to come out, which should be later this year, as my #1 priority in this build will be low noise levels, and those Noctuas give the best performance at any given noise output.


If your doing 120mm fans only then and you want HDD, as I do, then you can do 360 roof, 480side mid, front 360.
Personally, using the roof, side mid and front for Rads is pretty decent cooling capacity. If you want full Rads then do a 240 on the floor which still leaves room for the HDD cage.
Alternatively look into external Rads and some quality disconnects. 

Sent from my SM-G975F using Tapatalk


----------



## shilka

If sakete want space for more than 4 HDD´s in the bottom he or she will need to leave room in the front and side for at least one HDD cage
Why not just stick with the bigest rad you can fit in the roof that still leaves you room for more than 4 HDD´s

Do you even need liquid cooling or are you just doing it for the sake of doing it
You have an NH-D15 its not a bad cooler and if you need better cooling you could just replace your random miss match of fans with one type of good fans


----------



## sakete

shilka said:


> If sakete want space for more than 4 HDD´s in the bottom he or she will need to leave room in the front and side for at least one HDD cage
> Why not just stick with the bigest rad you can fit in the roof that still leaves you room for more than 4 HDD´s
> 
> Do you even need liquid cooling or are you just doing it for the sake of doing it
> You have an NH-D15 its not a bad cooler and if you need better cooling you could just replace your random miss match of fans with one type of good fans


Ha, I don't think anyone *needs* liquid cooling. We can all make do with the stock cooler that comes with our CPU and GPU.

But I will not need more than 4 HDDs, the rest of my data is on a NAS.

I'm currently cooling my GPU with an AIO. I plan on getting the Nvidia 3080 card when those come out, and that will go into a custom loop (instead of another AIO).

My NH15 will outperform most AIOs, when factoring in noise levels. But it will not outperform a custom loop, also when factoring in noise levels. And that's why I want a lot of rads, as that means a lot of surface area, so all fans can spin at low speeds.

For radiators I'm currently thinking I'll go for the Alphacool XT45 rads, as those are medium thickness leaving me enough room everywhere that I don't have to worry about things fitting too tightly, while still offering good cooling performance. Also relatively low fpi, so good for low speed fans.


----------



## sakete

Anyone know how to turn off the large RGB strip on the outside of the Phanteks 719 case, but leave the strip on the inside that runs underneath the motherboard enabled?


----------



## stulda

Hi,

I recently purchased the Enthoo 719 case and wondering if I am able to mount the Arctic Liquid Freezer II 360 to the side of the case while still having 3x Corsair 140 ML fans mounted at the front (for intake). Is that possible or would I run into some clearance issues?

Cheers!


----------



## JustinThyme

sakete said:


> Ha, I don't think anyone *needs* liquid cooling. We can all make do with the stock cooler that comes with our CPU and GPU.
> 
> But I will not need more than 4 HDDs, the rest of my data is on a NAS.
> 
> I'm currently cooling my GPU with an AIO. I plan on getting the Nvidia 3080 card when those come out, and that will go into a custom loop (instead of another AIO).
> 
> My NH15 will outperform most AIOs, when factoring in noise levels. But it will not outperform a custom loop, also when factoring in noise levels. And that's why I want a lot of rads, as that means a lot of surface area, so all fans can spin at low speeds.
> 
> For radiators I'm currently thinking I'll go for the Alphacool XT45 rads, as those are medium thickness leaving me enough room everywhere that I don't have to worry about things fitting too tightly, while still offering good cooling performance. Also relatively low fpi, so good for low speed fans.


One could absolutely run all air but there goes the OC potential. I tend to go overkill so even under heavy loads I can stay near silent, that is until I really stress it then the fans ramp up as I keep my loop temp under 32C.


----------



## owcraftsman

owcraftsman said:


> Shortly after the post here Bill (PhanteksUSA) reached out to me and said he would mail them but asked for a receipt. Took me a while to find it from 2015 but I did an sent it back waiting to here back again now. It's not clear if it was the post here or the ticket I started. If it was the ticket only it took them from 4 days to reply Jan 25th (Sat.) to Wednesday the 29th which is pretty good.
> 
> Turns out I threw him a curveball because I lost one of the front panel cables for Reset and PLED to the motherboard. I must have lost it when I was custom painting the interior of the case. I assume he is looking to get that for me as well. I sure hope so. I'll report back when all is resolved one way or the other.
> 
> Thanks for all the help!



Update I received the new clips today from Customer Service and it turns out I was mistaken the reset cable was buried under the motherboard daaaaaaaaa my bad. Thanks to Bill with Customer service he had me take pics of the missing cable and going through the motions I found the cable and all is good. 

Overall despite my impatience, I'm satisfied with Phanteks customer service. They sent the cables free of charge for a case I bought back in 2014 who could ask for more?


----------



## thekingbeyond

My Phanteks Eclipse P600S in white was delivered today, took it out of the box and checked it looked ok etc. Started the build, took front panel of to attach fans, fired it up, perfect. Then I took the front air inlet cover of and noticed the mesh had been put on slanted and to me it looks a mess. I just hope the dealer can replace the front panel and not have me ship the case back and have to take it apart.
It's a shame as the case is so well put together otherwise.


----------



## sultanofswing

I'm looking at picking up the 719 here soon, Currently Rocking a 0-11XL with 3 360mm Radiators.
I don't necessarily "need" more radiator space but I would like to have more.
I still have 2 480mm Radiators left over from my old 900d.

Looking at the Case specs it almost looks like my current XSPC 360mm Radiators may be too wide as they are listed at 130mm wide and the case suggests 125mm max width.
If the XSPC Radiators will not work what would be the better alternative?


----------



## LazarusIV

sultanofswing said:


> I'm looking at picking up the 719 here soon, Currently Rocking a 0-11XL with 3 360mm Radiators.
> I don't necessarily "need" more radiator space but I would like to have more.
> I still have 2 480mm Radiators left over from my old 900d.
> 
> Looking at the Case specs it almost looks like my current XSPC 360mm Radiators may be too wide as they are listed at 130mm wide and the case suggests 125mm max width.
> If the XSPC Radiators will not work what would be the better alternative?


I'm a big fan of Hardware Labs radiators, take a peek. Their Nemesis-L series are OEM radiators that are much more space-efficient than the regular GTX / GTS series. I just got a HWL Nemesis-L 420mm rad that's pretty excellent and only a few mm wider than the 140mm fans attached to it.


----------



## LOKI23NY

LazarusIV said:


> I'm a big fan of Hardware Labs radiators, take a peek. Their Nemesis-L series are OEM radiators that are much more space-efficient than the regular GTX / GTS series. I just got a HWL Nemesis-L 420mm rad that's pretty excellent and only a few mm wider than the 140mm fans attached to it.


I had no idea they made a L series. I've been piecing together parts for my loop (also have a 719) and wasn't sure about which radiators to choose. It looks like the Nemesis L-Series 360mm would fit in the top. I'm planning on pairing the 360mm L series with a with a 480mm GTS in the front.


----------



## ciarlatano

LOKI23NY said:


> I had no idea they made a L series. I've been piecing together parts for my loop (also have a 719) and wasn't sure about which radiators to choose. It looks like the Nemesis L-Series 360mm would fit in the top. I'm planning on pairing the 360mm L series with a with a 480mm GTS in the front.


The L Series aren't widely marketed. But, Bitspower sells them as the Leviathan series, and Corsair slaps a little sailboat sticker on them and upcharges them 50%. Can't imagine anyone buying a Corsair rad will be too happy when they realize that. 

The L Series are supposed to be based off the GTS and GTX cores, but without the high end shroud and paint. But, somehow they are more restrictive and don't perform quite as well. Still a decent choice and have the HWL build quality.


----------



## LazarusIV

ciarlatano said:


> The L Series aren't widely marketed. But, Bitspower sells them as the Leviathan series, and Corsair slaps a little sailboat sticker on them and upcharges them 50%. Can't imagine anyone buying a Corsair rad will be too happy when they realize that.
> 
> The L Series are supposed to be based off the GTS and GTX cores, but without the high end shroud and paint. But, somehow they are more restrictive and don't perform quite as well. Still a decent choice and have the HWL build quality.


Hm, interesting... I did not know they were more restrictive. I guess that makes sense considering they're smaller in overall size while not changing the actual fin-space or fan size. I'm not too fussed about it seeing as all I will have in my loop is a Swiftech Apogee Drive II, the HWL Nemesis-L 420mm rad, and EK-Vector waterblock for my Radeon VII. I may add a reservoir later on, but I'm going to try without one first, using a T-fitting and fillport instead.

That said, the more stuff you add, the more pumps you'll need... though I'm not exactly certain where that distinction falls.


----------



## JustinThyme

LazarusIV said:


> Hm, interesting... I did not know they were more restrictive. I guess that makes sense considering they're smaller in overall size while not changing the actual fin-space or fan size. I'm not too fussed about it seeing as all I will have in my loop is a Swiftech Apogee Drive II, the HWL Nemesis-L 420mm rad, and EK-Vector waterblock for my Radeon VII. I may add a reservoir later on, but I'm going to try without one first, using a T-fitting and fillport instead.
> 
> That said, the more stuff you add, the more pumps you'll need... though I'm not exactly certain where that distinction falls.


Its either over engineer it in the first place or put a flow meter in that gives actual feedback or at least a display, not a hamster wheel that just goes roundy roundy. IMO anything less than 5L/M is not enough.


----------



## LazarusIV

JustinThyme said:


> Its either over engineer it in the first place or put a flow meter in that gives actual feedback or at least a display, not a hamster wheel that just goes roundy roundy. IMO anything less than 5L/M is not enough.


Why over-engineer it when I can engineer it just enough  I'm more interested in efficiency than spending gobs of money on something that will be a lot of work and effort.


----------



## JustinThyme

LazarusIV said:


> Why over-engineer it when I can engineer it just enough  I'm more interested in efficiency than spending gobs of money on something that will be a lot of work and effort.


Well in that case
https://www.pcliquidations.com/p457...9XCTN_eahd3PeBbB4TQIFGIxAELE3dTxoCLCQQAvD_BwE

If you want performance then its just easier to do it right the first time. I always run a resevoir and not running at least a small one gives you no room for expansion and contraction. All tubing is permeable to some degree so you will loose coolant over time. 

In my experience non reservoir systems are also harder to bleed. I always run a minimum of 2 D5 pumps in serial. Boosted flow rate is primary goal and redundancy is the other. One pump fails and you have another still pumping.

Your question could be better answered with a more precise question as in what blocks you intend to run and if you are in it for looks or performance. A lot of variables.


----------



## LazarusIV

JustinThyme said:


> Well in that case
> https://www.pcliquidations.com/p457...9XCTN_eahd3PeBbB4TQIFGIxAELE3dTxoCLCQQAvD_BwE
> 
> If you want performance then its just easier to do it right the first time. I always run a resevoir and not running at least a small one gives you no room for expansion and contraction. All tubing is permeable to some degree so you will loose coolant over time.
> 
> In my experience non reservoir systems are also harder to bleed. I always run a minimum of 2 D5 pumps in serial. Boosted flow rate is primary goal and redundancy is the other. One pump fails and you have another still pumping.
> 
> Your question could be better answered with a more precise question as in what blocks you intend to run and if you are in it for looks or performance. A lot of variables.


I never had a question, I helped address @sultanofswing question.

Thanks for the input though.


----------



## Rainmaker91

After a long time of absence I have finally started doing something with my build again and I have a goal of updating the build log as often as I can (hopefully once a day). With the build literally standing in a corner collecting dust for more than a year now it’s time I started doing something, and I have to give myself a goal to actually get ***** done. So if anyone is interesting in following a build log where I stumble through all the challenges that comes with doing substantial case mods (to a Phanteks Enthoo Primo in this case) feel free to take a look;

https://www.overclock.net/forum/180...perdue-enthoo-primo-rebuild.html#post26121745

If it’s not your cup of tea then that’s fine too


----------



## thekingbeyond

Whilst I am waiting for a replacement p600s case front from phanteks, I had a go at changing the cloth mesh from black to white. It's not turned out great, a bit loose and baggy, but I have plenty of the mesh so will have another go at it.
I've decide to move my phanteks luxe to server duties and have a new gaming system in the p600s, managed to get a brand new noctua nh-d14 for £40 as well.

Here is a pic of case with white mesh


----------



## Rainmaker91

thekingbeyond said:


> Whilst I am waiting for a replacement p600s case front from phanteks, I had a go at changing the cloth mesh from black to white. It's not turned out great, a bit loose and baggy, but I have plenty of the mesh so will have another go at it.
> I've decide to move my phanteks luxe to server duties and have a new gaming system in the p600s, managed to get a brand new noctua nh-d14 for £40 as well.
> 
> Here is a pic of case with white mesh


I'm assuming you got the front panel replaced on warranty? If you have the current panel laying around then you could jsut replace the mesh with some modders mesh or even mesh made for car grills if you want something with less restriction. There are lots of alternatives that you could try out if you want to try your hand at some mods.


----------



## thekingbeyond

Rainmaker91 said:


> I'm assuming you got the front panel replaced on warranty? If you have the current panel laying around then you could jsut replace the mesh with some modders mesh or even mesh made for car grills if you want something with less restriction. There are lots of alternatives that you could try out if you want to try your hand at some mods.


The front panel is being replaced under warranty, I did replace the problem grill/ mesh material with the white stiff mesh fabric with similar sized holes, hence the white front.


----------



## Rainmaker91

thekingbeyond said:


> The front panel is being replaced under warranty, I did replace the problem grill/ mesh material with the white stiff mesh fabric with similar sized holes, hence the white front.


I see, I was scraching my head a bit as I thought the white mesh actually looked quite good. Replacing mesh is usually fairly easy as long as it can stay entirelly flat, once you have to bend it and stuff it will take quite a bit more patience and skill to do it properly.

Mind if I ask for a more closeup shot of that white mesh?


----------



## thekingbeyond

Rainmaker91 said:


> I see, I was scraching my head a bit as I thought the white mesh actually looked quite good. Replacing mesh is usually fairly easy as long as it can stay entirelly flat, once you have to bend it and stuff it will take quite a bit more patience and skill to do it properly.
> 
> Mind if I ask for a more closeup shot of that white mesh?


Here you go, I've not got it tight enough and under cut a bit on the bottom right, loads of screws to get it apart, take metal edge pieces of, then you are left with a black plastic frame made up of two sections that is screwed and clipped together. The mesh is the held in place by hooks down the sides and sandwiched top and bottom, their mesh appears to be doubled and stiffened but looks very similar.


----------



## doyll

Nice job thekingbeyond :thumb:


----------



## thekingbeyond

doyll said:


> Nice job thekingbeyond :thumb:


Thanks, just wanted to see how it would look in white, will redo it at weekend. :thumb:

Its a shame phanteks didn't use a removable frame for the mesh so it could be swapped for different colors, also the hard drive cages are terrible, to take a drive out you have to remove the cage and unscrew the drive, you cant just pull the drive out at front in its frame, seems they've gone back 15 years on that design element.


----------



## Rainmaker91

thekingbeyond said:


> Here you go, I've not got it tight enough and under cut a bit on the bottom right, loads of screws to get it apart, take metal edge pieces of, then you are left with a black plastic frame made up of two sections that is screwed and clipped together. The mesh is the held in place by hooks down the sides and sandwiched top and bottom, their mesh appears to be doubled and stiffened but looks very similar.


Not bad. I see what you mean about bottom right, but otherwise it looks quite good. You might want to consider putting in a white steel mesh as a permanent solution as that colour actually quite suits the build (fibre mesh isn't ideal for permanent stuff, but if it works it works).

I have some AC Ryan mod mesh that I'm planning on using as well for the front of my Enthoo Primo, having somehing there rather than just empty space does make it all look more complete (it also make mounting magnetic dust filters that much more easy).

Edit: Also... Props for the mad stack of fans. I thought I was the only one with a bunch of fans laying around not getting used


----------



## thekingbeyond

Rainmaker91 said:


> Not bad. I see what you mean about bottom right, but otherwise it looks quite good. You might want to consider putting in a white steel mesh as a permanent solution as that colour actually quite suits the build (fibre mesh isn't ideal for permanent stuff, but if it works it works).
> 
> I have some AC Ryan mod mesh that I'm planning on using as well for the front of my Enthoo Primo, having somehing there rather than just empty space does make it all look more complete (it also make mounting magnetic dust filters that much more easy).
> 
> Edit: Also... Props for the mad stack of fans. I thought I was the only one with a bunch of fans laying around not getting used


I've just emptied a drawer full of fans mostly noctua a lot unused, need to clear some space and recover some money, on the p600s the fibre mesh is the feature of the case along with a magnetic filter behind.

Check out this video about 5 minutes in, it features the mesh


----------



## sakete

Anybody here using an EATX board with the 719 case? How's the cable management and clearance with the grommets? Any pics?


----------



## Akhenaton

Hi guys, I have an Enthoo Luxe (first edition), does anybody know if there's a way to put a front vertical radiator without lose the hdd bays?
Installing fans outside isn't possibile on the front.

Or another position to install the hdd.


----------



## arb65912

Hello, my Phanteks Eclipse P600S PH-EC600PSTG_AG01 Antracite Gray Steel / Tempered Glass ATX Mid Tower Computer Case is on the way.

Is that the place to ask questions if I have any? Thanks!


----------



## thekingbeyond

I've received the front replacement panel from Phanteks, quick delivery and great customer service. Might get some Phanteks halos for the front 3 x Noctua NF-A14, I like my case lit with a steady color but no rgb and I have used the 2m rgb strip from my Enthoo Luxe, with a phanteks motherboard adaptor
I've lived with the diy white front for a few weeks and I think I prefer the white to black, what do you guys think?


----------



## doyll

arb65912 said:


> Hello, my Phanteks Eclipse P600S PH-EC600PSTG_AG01 Antracite Gray Steel / Tempered Glass ATX Mid Tower Computer Case is on the way.
> 
> Is that the place to ask questions if I have any? Thanks!


We try to answer questions, but don't always know the answers.


----------



## arb65912

doyll said:


> We try to answer questions, but don't always know the answers.


Of course,  Nobody knows it all but I do not know anything so..... thanks, will ask here when the time comes.


----------



## ilmazzo

Want to put my gpu vertical

Phanteks has 2 kist for it, I was going to purchase one of the two (slim or flat cable is the choice, sincerely I cannot choose the best of the two from a technical pov, suggestions?) anyway I read a r/ post saying that phanteks kits use to let the gpu too much near the panel limiting the air to the gpu and overheating it blablbalbal

Soemone suggested the cablemod kit instead of phanteks......what do you think of this guys? They cost pretty much the same at least in EU (well, cablemod even put 2 dp 1.4 cable in it so it is cheaper as a whole).

Cheers


----------



## wermad

ilmazzo said:


> Want to put my gpu vertical
> 
> Phanteks has 2 kist for it, I was going to purchase one of the two (slim or flat cable is the choice, sincerely I cannot choose the best of the two from a technical pov, suggestions?) anyway I read a r/ post saying that phanteks kits use to let the gpu too much near the panel limiting the air to the gpu and overheating it blablbalbal
> 
> Soemone suggested the cablemod kit instead of phanteks......what do you think of this guys? They cost pretty much the same at least in EU (well, cablemod even put 2 dp 1.4 cable in it so it is cheaper as a whole).
> 
> Cheers




Try one of these? There's a few different versions but it places your gpu more towards the mb but more importantly, gives you space to route your video cable. The phanteks kit (second pic) positions the bracket right on the slots. They're both ~$40 with a 200mm or so riser. I know Bitwit prefers the first one in one of his builds to give the fans more breathing room. These are off amazon, but check ebay and aliexpress. I'm going with two CooCat 300mm and 400mm risers to place my Sapphires on the stock vertical mounts in the 719. This case gives you three vertical slots and a slight gap for fans. Should clear my gpu's and I'm going to push a ton of air to keep them cool under load.


----------



## ilmazzo

Thanks for your reply

Well I started with Phanteks because... I have a phanteks case  no need to say it so I would appreciate a lot that the part would be just "plug and play", but I would like just to not threathen my gpu for a aestethic tantrum so I wanted some users feedback when using them on phanteks cases.

This is the cablemod one:










and the result accordign ot them is:


----------



## wermad

Looks good :thumb:. Can't go wrong with oem parts. 

I'm picking up the CooCat risers (300mm for the top, and 400mm for the bottom). I don't have a bottom brace for mine, so I bought an UpHere gpu brace. 


The last pic is not mine (I'm ordering the satin black version), but that's where I'll be mounting both of my Sapphire's.


----------



## Rainmaker91

thekingbeyond said:


> I've received the front replacement panel from Phanteks, quick delivery and great customer service. Might get some Phanteks halos for the front 3 x Noctua NF-A14, I like my case lit with a steady color but no rgb and I have used the 2m rgb strip from my Enthoo Luxe, with a phanteks motherboard adaptor
> I've lived with the diy white front for a few weeks and I think I prefer the white to black, what do you guys think?


Looks good with both to be honest, but the white does fit a bit better. Is the phanteks grill fibre as well or steel? If it's steel you could always just paint it with a can of spraypaint, you could probablt do this with fibre mesh as well, but metal surfaces are easier to paint. Having a more rigid front grill is also a bit helpfull if you bump in to the front of the case by mistake (especially important if it's on the floor).


----------



## thekingbeyond

Rainmaker91 said:


> Looks good with both to be honest, but the white does fit a bit better. Is the phanteks grill fibre as well or steel? If it's steel you could always just paint it with a can of spraypaint, you could probablt do this with fibre mesh as well, but metal surfaces are easier to paint. Having a more rigid front grill is also a bit helpfull if you bump in to the front of the case by mistake (especially important if it's on the floor).


The mesh is made from nylon I think, it appears to be doubled up and is rough to the feel. I've emailed phanteks to see if they can get the mesh in white as the diy one I made looks similar but doesn't have the same dust catching properties.


----------



## Rainmaker91

thekingbeyond said:


> The mesh is made from nylon I think, it appears to be doubled up and is rough to the feel. I've emailed phanteks to see if they can get the mesh in white as the diy one I made looks similar but doesn't have the same dust catching properties.


I see... I haven't really been paying atention to the detials of Phanteks cases for the last few years, I was sort of on top of it when I bought my Enthoo Primo but everything since then has only been a superficial interest for my part.

As far as Phanteks support goes... They are good for sure, but they can't provide parts they don't have (and I doubt they will special order something for you). So unless they provide a different colour case with a white mesh on it then I doubt you will have any success getting one from Phanteks.

Now as far as the mesh that you already have, if you still have the mesh that came with the case (the missaligned one) then I would atempt to paint that one as a trial to see if you couldn't do that for the replacement as well. 

Painting nylon and plastic in general isn't all that difficult, but it does require a few extra steps than when painting metal:


Spoiler



- First make sure whatever paint you get won't react to the specific plastic that you will be painting (acrylic paint is a safe bet for most stuff)
- Then see if you can get a plastic etch primer that won't react badly
- Get the primary paint colour in the same brand and series as the primer to be sure that the paint won't react with the primer (you can mix and match, but it's a bit more of a gamble)
- Before painting you want to go over the surfaces with a scour pad, or a sandpaper in the 400-600 range. One of those dishwashing spunges can also be used in a pinch.
- Then clean all surfaces with a microfiber cloth (one of those hairy ones, as you really want to get all the dust away before painting), and some alcohol if the material won't react to it (rubbing alcohol, antibac alcohol (make sure it doesn't have glycol in it) or even Vodka will work in a pinch. Just keep it above 60%)
- Then it's just down to following the instructions on the cans, even coats and lots of them from the recommended distance.


----------



## thekingbeyond

Rainmaker91 said:


> I see... I haven't really been paying atention to the detials of Phanteks cases for the last few years, I was sort of on top of it when I bought my Enthoo Primo but everything since then has only been a superficial interest for my part.
> 
> As far as Phanteks support goes... They are good for sure, but they can't provide parts they don't have (and I doubt they will special order something for you). So unless they provide a different colour case with a white mesh on it then I doubt you will have any success getting one from Phanteks.
> 
> Now as far as the mesh that you already have, if you still have the mesh that came with the case (the missaligned one) then I would atempt to paint that one as a trial to see if you couldn't do that for the replacement as well.
> 
> Painting nylon and plastic in general isn't all that difficult, but it does require a few extra steps than when painting metal:
> 
> 
> Spoiler
> 
> 
> 
> - First make sure whatever paint you get won't react to the specific plastic that you will be painting (acrylic paint is a safe bet for most stuff)
> - Then see if you can get a plastic etch primer that won't react badly
> - Get the primary paint colour in the same brand and series as the primer to be sure that the paint won't react with the primer (you can mix and match, but it's a bit more of a gamble)
> - Before painting you want to go over the surfaces with a scour pad, or a sandpaper in the 400-600 range. One of those dishwashing spunges can also be used in a pinch.
> - Then clean all surfaces with a microfiber cloth (one of those hairy ones, as you really want to get all the dust away before painting), and some alcohol if the material won't react to it (rubbing alcohol, antibac alcohol (make sure it doesn't have glycol in it) or even Vodka will work in a pinch. Just keep it above 60%)
> - Then it's just down to following the instructions on the cans, even coats and lots of them from the recommended distance.


I asked phanteks if the mesh was made by an outside manufacturer or in-house, hopefully it will be sourced elsewhere and available in different colors


----------



## Elrick

*Just a question here for the Phanteks Eclipse P600S owners;*

This model of case, has it got a separate Hard Drive activity led attached anywhere on this model?

I have always had two (2) leds in every case I've purchased over my lifetime and would love to know if there are any extra leds provided for operation and hard drive activity?

_Not interested in any RGB nonsense because actual leds for the above mentioned activities, is the prime consideration here._


----------



## thekingbeyond

Elrick said:


> *Just a question here for the Phanteks Eclipse P600S owners;*
> 
> This model of case, has it got a separate Hard Drive activity led attached anywhere on this model?
> 
> I have always had two (2) leds in every case I've purchased over my lifetime and would love to know if there are any extra leds provided for operation and hard drive activity?
> 
> _Not interested in any RGB nonsense because actual leds for the above mentioned activities, is the prime consideration here._



There is a led ring around the power button that connects to the led activity pins on the motherboard


----------



## Melan

Anyone got P300A yet? I was looking to get one but still nothing in EU.


----------



## thekingbeyond

Melan said:


> Anyone got P300A yet? I was looking to get one but still nothing in EU.


It's available in the UK, amazon Germany and amazon Italy


----------



## wermad

Debating on getting the Enthoo Pro 2 over the 719. I'm planning an air build that's crawling to a snail's pace at this point in time. So I'm in no rush and can wait.


----------



## Melan

thekingbeyond said:


> It's available in the UK, amazon Germany and amazon Italy


I went and looked it up. Nothing.
Then I changed the search phrase from "Phanteks P300A" to "Phanteks P300 Air" and they showed up. Sigh.


----------



## Rainmaker91

thekingbeyond said:


> I asked phanteks if the mesh was made by an outside manufacturer or in-house, hopefully it will be sourced elsewhere and available in different colors


Lets hope for the best, otherwise the paint route is always available if you want to try it out.


----------



## JustinThyme

thekingbeyond said:


> I asked phanteks if the mesh was made by an outside manufacturer or in-house, hopefully it will be sourced elsewhere and available in different colors


If its plastic the Krylon paint for plastic outdoor furniture works very well and comes in plenty of color choices. Doesnt take a lot of prep, just nice and clean.


----------



## Rainmaker91

JustinThyme said:


> If its plastic the Krylon paint for plastic outdoor furniture works very well and comes in plenty of color choices. Doesnt take a lot of prep, just nice and clean.


While some are better than other for sure, I wouldn't say that you should only go for 1 specific brand. Go for the one that is the best priced and not a junk brand (some cheaper in house brands are fine but you need to read up on what other people have experienced or try it yourself). I tend to go for CRC branded paint, it works well and is available at my local hardware store. Though in all honesty, as long as it's not junk the brand doesn't really matter. Most of the work for a good paint job lies in the prep work. Only paints I tend to steer away from is mostly the combo paints which is supposed to include primer, they never really work as well as a 2 step process in my experience.

In short, Krylon will work fine if it's available. However there are also tons of others that work fine, so going for whatever is available is usually the best given that tis is just white satin/matte spraypaint (I'm assuming, mostly because that is usually what works best on grills).


----------



## wermad

FYI: Enthoo Pro 2 delayed due to issue in China per Phanteks 😢


----------



## Imprezzion

I went full yeet on my Enthoo Evolv X. I already cut my top panel for better exhaust and lighting but since i moved my radiator to front intake I decided to also yeet the front panel.


----------



## chibi

Anyone have updates regarding the P500A release?


----------



## RoivonPC

Am I going to have builders remorse? I have a 719 waiting for parts and I'm seeing that there are few options for bottom radiators.


----------



## sakete

RoivonPC said:


> Am I going to have builders remorse? I have a 719 waiting for parts and I'm seeing that there are few options for bottom radiators.


You mainly can't get a radiator that's too wide. Thickness is practically unlimited.


----------



## LOKI23NY

Quick question for enthoo 719 owners - Are we able to tap into the preinstalled led lighting strips that are controlled by the buttons on the case? Where is the connector located in the case? The manual shows a cable that states "to digital rgb products" but now that I've got all my hardware installed and wires tucked away, I can't seem to locate it. I'm on the fence about adding some accent lighting but figured since it's built into the case I could hook up a strip that I have to test it out.

Got my loop installed yesterday. Even with the rads and pump the case still looks empty. Waiting for the 3080/3080ti to be released and then I will add gpu into the loop. Once that is done it should look better.

Optimus Foundation Waterblock
HWL 420 GTS
HWL 360 GTS
EK- XRES d5 vario
EK ZMT


----------



## Gilles3000

I mean technically this is about MetallicGear, but since its a phanteks sub-brand, I figure its fine to post here?

So they just released this thing:
http://metallicgear.com/products/Neo-Qube-White









Yeah, *** Phanteks/MetallicGear... When your O11 clone is more blatant than Thermaltake's, its probably time to do a morality check...


----------



## shilka

chibi said:


> Anyone have updates regarding the P500A release?


Its probably been delayed due to the pandemic


----------



## ErrantPigeon

Gilles3000 said:


> Yeah, *** Phanteks/MetallicGear... When your O11 clone is more blatant than Thermaltake's, its probably time to do a morality check...


Yeah, I'm a bit disappoined. I actually really liked MetallicGear as a concept - Phanteks design chops with budget construction. And the Neo line-up is actually pretty decent, build in a Neo Mini V1 a while ago and was actually positively impressed. And the neatest thing about the whole thing was: they actually had a nice visual theme/identity going on: the (selective) use of aluminium panels, the consistent rounded corners and the repeated pattern on the glass.

And the Qube is just... an O11, with none of the Metallicgear design elements: why are the feet rounded but not the top corners? It's the only Metallicgear case with the front I/O actually on the front instead of a more concealed location. There is no aluminium design on it at all.

I would've been on board with an O11-style dual chamber layout but using their own design: closed front with aluminium instead of glass, have the rounded top panel shape... that would've been their own take on the concept without being a blatant rip-off.


----------



## mtosic

shilka said:


> Its probably been delayed due to the pandemic


Do you have any more info on this?
I've been waiting for this case for a new build.

Seems ideal for airflow build for Noctua D15 with really long graphic cards.


----------



## shilka

mtosic said:


> Do you have any more info on this?
> I've been waiting for this case for a new build.
> 
> Seems ideal for airflow build for Noctua D15 with really long graphic cards.


I dont have any info but looking at the the state of the world right now i would not assume anything comes out on time


----------



## ilmazzo

Yup

in a short time you just have to figure out how to cure yourself if you are unlucky to get caught by the covid, gaming or nerd stuff will be just useless junk for the next 3-6 months


----------



## Elrick

shilka said:


> I dont have any info but looking at the the state of the world right now i would not assume anything comes out on time



YES, it gives them time to perfect what they are suppose to release, that's my positive spin on this Virus circumstance.

At least my kids would pick up a very lucrative death pay out from me. Have been paying for more than 30 years, so they shall indeed have most of their dreams coming true.

Besides all the assets left behind for them as well. Always look after family in times such as this.


----------



## Gilles3000

mtosic said:


> Do you have any more info on this?
> I've been waiting for this case for a new build.
> 
> Seems ideal for airflow build for Noctua D15 with really long graphic cards.


No extra info since CES 2020. Don't expect there to be any time soon.

But you can get the P400A, it has the same style front panel and fits the NH-D15 just fine(phanteks left some extra margin on the cooler height spec), fits long GPU's as well.
(Here's a P400A build with an NH-D15 if you won't take my word for it)

Do mind the memory clearance, if your memory sits under the fan it has to be 32mm or less. Which is recommended for the NH-D15 regardless of what case its in anyway, otherwise it'll perform worse.

If you do have tall memory that sits under the NH-D15's front fan, I'd recommend getting a different cooler. If you tell me what motherboard and memory you're planning to use I'll recommend some.


----------



## doyll

I'll make a call and see what I can find out about P500A, but I suspect it will be awhile before we see anything new.


----------



## shilka

I would assume that cases and pretty much everything is also included 
https://www.techpowerup.com/264840/...g-record-lows-in-wake-of-coronavirus-outbreak

Even Computex 2020 might be called off
https://www.techpowerup.com/264860/computex-2020-in-jeopardy-as-taiwan-bans-all-foreign-visitors

Yesterday the danish government closed down all malls / shoping centers all bars all haircutters all fitness centers and EVERYTHING not selling food and medicine its like a living in a zombie movie here
Restaurants are only allowed to stay open for take away and you are not allowed to stay in groups bigger than 10 

If somebody wont break up their party or close down their shop the police will come give them a fine or force them to close like it has already happend today where the police showed up to a group of shops that would not close and the police forced them to close which serve them right

A group of young ***holes are wanted by the police because they think its funny walking around wearing facemasks and coughing and while i dont condone violence i wont be sad if they get a fist in the face

Edit: all schools where already closed a few days ago and the borders ports and air ports have already been closed and everybody is banned from going in or out
its not all doom and gloom many take away places have offered free food to health care personal for the next 2 weeks


----------



## mtosic

Gilles3000 said:


> No extra info since CES 2020. Don't expect there to be any time soon.
> 
> But you can get the P400A, it has the same style front panel and fits the NH-D15 just fine(phanteks left some extra margin on the cooler height spec), fits long GPU's as well.
> (Here's a P400A build with an NH-D15 if you won't take my word for it)
> 
> Do mind the memory clearance, if your memory sits under the fan it has to be 32mm or less. Which is recommended for the NH-D15 regardless of what case its in anyway, otherwise it'll perform worse.
> 
> If you do have tall memory that sits under the NH-D15's front fan, I'd recommend getting a different cooler. If you tell me what motherboard and memory you're planning to use I'll recommend some.


I've went with Phanteks P600S in the end.
I think P400A can fit only D15S (with single fan), at least that's the info I've found from owners on reddit.

Maybe they will release mesh front for P600S when they release P500A 

EDIT: was tempted to go with O11 Dynamic and custom loop build, but it's just too much money for marginal performance gain. Would be fun to build it, though


----------



## Gilles3000

mtosic said:


> I've went with Phanteks P600S in the end.
> *I think P400A can fit only D15S (with single fan)*, at least that's the info I've found from owners on reddit.


I mean, I did just provide you a link that clearly shows a D15 with 2 fans in the P400A, but kay. 

Most of the other comments I found on reddit, which were probably the ones you are referring to, are just spec parrots that can't be arsed to actually look into it.

Most cases come with some margin on the max. cooler height spec. usually just a couple mm. But in case of the P400A its clearly >5mm.

But the P600S is still a really good choice regardless, should work really well with the D15 as well.


----------



## doyll

What Gilles3000 said. 

P400A spec is 160mm CPU clearance and NH-D15 spec is same 160mm cooler height to top of heatpipes. NH=D15 165mm spec. is to top of fan centered on finpack .. and as I remember it the center fan can be mounted with top of fan flush with top of heatpipes .. so 160mm tall. Front mouned flush with top of D15 heatpipes would require RAM no taller than 25mm. Shortest DDR4 RAM I know of is 31.2mm tall, that is 6.2mm too tall for a 140mm fan to fit between top of RAM and case side panel in case with 160mm CPU clearance.


----------



## doyll

Latest report is May/June for P500A.


----------



## Gilles3000

doyll said:


> What Gilles3000 said.
> 
> P400A spec is 160mm CPU clearance and NH-D15 spec is same 160mm cooler height to top of heatpipes. NH=D15 165mm spec. is to top of fan centered on finpack .. and as I remember it the center fan can be mounted with top of fan flush with top of heatpipes .. so 160mm tall. Front mouned flush with top of D15 heatpipes would require RAM no taller than 25mm. Shortest DDR4 RAM I know of is 31.2mm tall, that is 6.2mm too tall for a 140mm fan to fit between top of RAM and case side panel in case with 160mm CPU clearance.


Just to make sure its clear, the user on reddit I linked is using it wit 31.2mm RAM under the front fan, so that one is sitting at 164.2MM and its still not hitting the side panel.

Obviously Panktek's spec was conservative. This seems to be the case for a lot of other manufactures too, so if you think a hardware combination you really want to use only just exceeds the max dimension specs, it might be worth looking into, as it might just fit.


----------



## mtosic

Gilles3000 said:


> I mean, I did just provide you a link that clearly shows a D15 with 2 fans in the P400A, but kay.
> 
> Most of the other comments I found on reddit, which were probably the ones you are referring to, are just spec parrots that can't be arsed to actually look into it.
> 
> Most cases come with some margin on the max. cooler height spec. usually just a couple mm. But in case of the P400A its clearly >5mm.
> 
> But the P600S is still a really good choice regardless, should work really well with the D15 as well.


Oh, I don't know how I've missed the link, was in a hurry probably  Sry for that!

Shame I didn't know this few days earlier. I always expected tolerance is max 2mm. Even official Noctua page says it doesn't fit in P400A.
I've completed the build today and was lucky cause all shops in Croatia stopped working today on midnight because of COVID-19.

P600s is excellent, but it's maybe a bit larger than I expected
P400A would be better size I guess. Not sure if would fit with my RAM though (Crucial Ballistix Sport LT, 32.5 mm)



doyll said:


> Latest report is May/June for P500A.


Tnx for info!

P.S. included Phanteks fans are great, friend recently bought Meshify C and seems like Phanteks has much better built-in fans.


----------



## Hequaqua

Hey Everyone!

Just waiting on my new P600S to get here....can't wait to build in it. I have a Enthroo Pro(Lassie in my sig) that my back-up rig is in. 

Anything I need to be aware of build wise with this case?

I am doing a custom loop in it.


----------



## chibi

Hequaqua said:


> Hey Everyone!
> 
> Just waiting on my new P600S to get here....can't wait to build in it. I have a Enthroo Pro(Lassie in my sig) that my back-up rig is in.
> 
> Anything I need to be aware of build wise with this case?
> 
> I am doing a custom loop in it.



This case is very solid! The build quality is top notch when I had it in my possession, have fun with the build and post some pics! :thumb:


----------



## doyll

Does P600S have fans included? I know many of the new ones do not come with fans.


----------



## thekingbeyond

doyll said:


> Does P600S have fans included? I know many of the new ones do not come with fans.


It comes with 3 x 140mm 3pin fans, 2 front and 1 at the rear. No model number.


----------



## Hequaqua

doyll said:


> Does P600S have fans included? I know many of the new ones do not come with fans.


I think it comes with 3 140mm.....not 100% sure.

Thanks...yea, I will post some pics. I can't wait for it to get here...been a week in transit.


----------



## doyll

thekingbeyond said:


> It comes with 3 x 140mm 3pin fans, 2 front and 1 at the rear. No model number.


Those fans are PH-F140SP motor with PH-F140MP, so are very good case fans. I would use all three as front intakes and make sure there are no holes not covered by fans is closed / taped off so the air they push into case can't leak bakk up front but has to flow on through case. Remove all PCIe back slot cover to increase rear vent area around GPU and have better front to back airflow which supplies cooler air to both CPU and GPU so they run cooler so their fans run slower and we end up with a nice cool and quiet system.


----------



## thekingbeyond

doyll said:


> Those fans are PH-F140SP motor with PH-F140MP, so are very good case fans. I would use all three as front intakes and make sure there are no holes not covered by fans is closed / taped off so the air they push into case can't leak bakk up front but has to flow on through case. Remove all PCIe back slot cover to increase rear vent area around GPU and have better front to back airflow which supplies cooler air to both CPU and GPU so they run cooler so their fans run slower and we end up with a nice cool and quiet system.


There is a front dust filter on the p600s that seals the fan intake, so they can only get air through the filter, also the doors/sides have rubber seals. It's a nice design, as you have suggested the perfect fan set up is 3 at front, I have replaced the phanteks fans for Noctua NF-A14 PWM adding an extra one at the rear. Great air flow through the case past the GPU with the pci slot covers removed as you suggest.


----------



## Hequaqua

doyll said:


> Those fans are PH-F140SP motor with PH-F140MP, so are very good case fans. I would use all three as front intakes and make sure there are no holes not covered by fans is closed / taped off so the air they push into case can't leak bakk up front but has to flow on through case. Remove all PCIe back slot cover to increase rear vent area around GPU and have better front to back airflow which supplies cooler air to both CPU and GPU so they run cooler so their fans run slower and we end up with a nice cool and quiet system.





thekingbeyond said:


> There is a front dust filter on the p600s that seals the fan intake, so they can only get air through the filter, also the doors/sides have rubber seals. It's a nice design, as you have suggested the perfect fan set up is 3 at front, I have replaced the phanteks fans for Noctua NF-A14 PWM adding an extra one at the rear. Great air flow through the case past the GPU with the pci slot covers removed as you suggest.


I plan on mounting two 360 rads in there. Both cpu and gpu will be under water. That's the plan....not set in stone yet. I plan on taking my time and "dry" fitting everything first. 

Thanks for the heads-up! :thumb:


----------



## Shark00n

Just finished making some changes to my PC and loop. Got a Maximus XI Gene and a Ventus 2080 Ti OC in.

Always a pleasure building or changing parts in this case. 1st gen Enthoo Evolv mATX


----------



## RoivonPC

I think I have everything to cram into the 719...

Not pictured, existing 1080 TI I'm using until the next gen of Nvidia cards come out. 
Also not pictured extra pipe and a different HWLabs rad in plain boxes, temp sensor, cable mods that I haven't ordered yet, and Mayhems Fluid.


----------



## Jayrock

RoivonPC said:


> I think I have everything to cram into the 719...
> 
> Not pictured, existing 1080 TI I'm using until the next gen of Nvidia cards come out.
> Also not pictured extra pipe and a different HWLabs rad in plain boxes, temp sensor, cable mods that I haven't ordered yet, and Mayhems Fluid.


Daaayyyyummmnnn! Have fun!


----------



## R99photography

RoivonPC said:


> I think I have everything to cram into the 719...
> 
> Not pictured, existing 1080 TI I'm using until the next gen of Nvidia cards come out.
> Also not pictured extra pipe and a different HWLabs rad in plain boxes, temp sensor, cable mods that I haven't ordered yet, and Mayhems Fluid.



Hello, congrats for the project underway.
Just a question: how do you expect to setup the Phanteks 719 along with the Aquaero, giving that the case has not 5,25” bays? Is it maybe the LT version?
Thanks.


P.s.: I am interested in the case, but I don’t want to quit my Aquaero.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## sakete

R99photography said:


> Hello, congrats for the project underway.
> Just a question: how do you expect to setup the Phanteks 719 along with the Aquaero, giving that the case has not 5,25” bays? Is it maybe the LT version?
> Thanks.
> 
> 
> P.s.: I am interested in the case, but I don’t want to quit my Aquaero.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


You can do what I did, just use double sided tape (I'm using some sort of thick heavy duty 3M tape for mounting stuff to walls) and stick a 6 LT to the inside of the front of the case.


----------



## R99photography

sakete said:


> You can do what I did, just use double sided tape (I'm using some sort of thick heavy duty 3M tape for mounting stuff to walls) and stick a 6 LT to the inside of the front of the case.



I don’t have the LT version, but the PRO with display.
Thank you anyway. [emoji4]


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## Gilles3000

R99photography said:


> I don’t have the LT version, but the PRO with display.
> Thank you anyway. [emoji4]
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


If you're dead set on keeping the display, you can get this accessory for the 719.
https://www.phanteksusa.com/products/phanteks-dual-5-25-odd-bay-for-lx-2?_pos=1&_sid=9605742c3&_ss=r

Mounts on the inside so the display is visible through the side panel. Like this:









Even has an extra slot for a floppy drive or some other antiquated tech.


----------



## R99photography

Gilles3000 said:


> If you're dead set on keeping the display, you can get this accessory for the 719.
> https://www.phanteksusa.com/products/phanteks-dual-5-25-odd-bay-for-lx-2?_pos=1&_sid=9605742c3&_ss=r
> 
> Mounts on the inside so the display is visible through the side panel. Like this:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Even has an extra slot for a floppy drive or some other antiquated tech.



Really interesting solution. Radiator clearance should be updated though.

Thank you anyway.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## Gilles3000

R99photography said:


> Really interesting solution. Radiator clearance should be updated though.


There's hardly any demand for these, they're not going to update anything for it. I'd be surprised if even 1% of enthoo 719 gets that accessory. 

Most people either custom mount their aquaero PRO/XT or just get the LT these days, 5.25 ODD bays are a waste of space and a hindrance in case design.

Anyway, reduce the top possible rad length by about 160mm and the front possible rad length by about 105mm and you should be good.


----------



## Hequaqua

Well....finished the build in the P600S.

Love the case, but I just have too much crap. I went with soft tubing on the GPU portion of the loop because this is the 3rd 2070 I've had. The first one died. MSI sent a replacement that died as well.

While I love the hard tubing, it's really a pain in the butt sometimes. Soft tubing is so much easier to maintain. As you can see, I have no room to mount a fan at the rear of the case. I will say temps are still very good overall though. The VRM temps are a tad higher under a full load, but I wouldn't call 42-45°C a issue. 

So here ya go:



Spoiler






























































































I'm still trying to get the air bubbles out. I also had a issue with the pump connector. It uses a molex(Sheesh I hate molex) that came apart. I was up at 1am soldering the leads to a 3-pin fan header. It's a temp fix, but seems to work.....so far.

:thumb:


----------



## R99photography

Gilles3000 said:


> There's hardly any demand for these, they're not going to update anything for it. I'd be surprised if even 1% of enthoo 719 gets that accessory.
> 
> Most people either custom mount their aquaero PRO/XT or just get the LT these days, 5.25 ODD bays are a waste of space and a hindrance in case design.
> 
> Anyway, reduce the top possible rad length by about 160mm and the front possible rad length by about 105mm and you should be good.




If you consider a waste of space, I consider not smart looking at Aquaero software every time you need to monitor temps and so on when you can do naturally by viewing the gentle display it has. However, any user has his/her personale preferences.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## Gilles3000

R99photography said:


> If you consider a waste of space, I consider not smart looking at Aquaero software every time you need to monitor temps and so on when you can do naturally by viewing the gentle display it has. However, any user has his/her personale preferences.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


I'm not saying the Aquaero display is a waste of space, the 5.25"bays are, i'm not sure if you've notices, but the Aquaero 6 Pro is a whole lot smaller than even a single 5.25"bay.

That's why a lot of people custom mount them. 

If you have a drill, utility knife and some pliers you can whip up a better bracket with some aluminum sheet metal that doesn't interfere with your radiators in about 10m or so.


----------



## R99photography

Gilles3000 said:


> I'm not saying the Aquaero display is a waste of space, the 5.25"bays are, i'm not sure if you've notices, but the Aquaero 6 Pro is a whole lot smaller than even a single 5.25"bay.
> 
> That's why a lot of people custom mount them.
> 
> If you have a drill, utility knife and some pliers you can whip up a better bracket with some aluminum sheet metal that doesn't interfere with your radiators in about 10m or so.



Yes, I own that and I know that is not an optical drive in terms of depth. I understood you had referred to the ODD drive bays when speaking about waste of space. [emoji6]
Anyway, if you want to mount an Aquaero 6 PRO in a case you need at least one drive bays, not matter if it is only a few cm in depth. Drilling a case for a custom mount bracket is not an option for me.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## soundzen_PT

hello club, i dropped my workdesk itx AZZA case and bought last week a PHANTEK evolv itx, its roomier and its better quality fr sure... the only downsize is the gap between GPU and PSU which brings no fresh air or fans breeze to the graphic.

*PIC --> https://imgur.com/vaF3UoR*

if you pros could tell me which fans INCH are best, in which position LOCATION and quantity please, since there is no watercooling for my gtx1660 super GPU = less problems and headaches with fans than liquid (pump, reservoir, leeks, replacement and PRICE are a no-no)... even for my intel 1151 chip CPU, im opting for a fan block (Arctic freezer esport 33, if it fits)

to help my burning GPU, im thinking of 4 fans of 120mm with RGB:

- 1X at back pulling out the hot air
- 1X at front panel pushing in fresh air
- 2X at top pushing in fresh air down on gpu
...maybe 2 push at the front + 1 pull at back are suficient???

to improve gpu breathing gap im thinking of placing my PSU more towards the front panel (which will loose the case intake of air, prepared at bottom of case) so that GPU can breath trough punctured middle plate in front of it.


----------



## Gilles3000

soundzen_PT said:


> hello club, i dropped my workdesk itx AZZA case and bought last week a PHANTEK evolv itx, its roomier and its better quality fr sure... the only downsize is the gap between GPU and PSU which brings no fresh air or fans breeze to the graphic.
> 
> PIC
> 
> i would like to know which fans are best, in which position and quantity please, since there is no watercooling for my gtx1660 super GPU and less problems and headaches with fans than liquid (pump, reservoir, leeks, replacement and PRICE are a no-no).
> 
> im thinking of 4 fans:
> 
> - 1X at back pulling out the hot air
> - 1X at front panel pushing in fresh air
> - 2X at top pushing in fresh air down on gpu
> ...maybe 2 push at the front + 1 pull at back are suficient???
> 
> to improve gpu breathing gap im thinking of placing my PSU more towards the front panel (which will lose the case intake of air, at bottom case) so that GPU can breath trough punctured middle plate?


If you don't want to deal with water cooling, the best way to fix GPU temperatures in the Evolv ITX is by getting... a different case....

Unfortunately I'm not being facetious here, the Evolv ITX just isn't set up for air cooling a powerful GPU. No matter what fan config you use, GPU temperatures won't be great.

Going with an SFX PSU can help a bit as it clears some space under the mesh. But the core issue of how the gpu is positioned remains.

Edit: On second thought, its a GTX 1660, are you actually having temperature issues, as that's a fairly low power GPU?


----------



## soundzen_PT

bonjour Gilles, thanks for reply.

i dont know my temps, i only know that its very hot by touch, on the green backplate circuit board and the GPU fan its constantly spinning which stops when im only surfing the net and not gaming... specially on heavy playing 10H non-stop morning  my pc froze twice, during online game & after i slammed the table the pc is on out of frustration during battle LOL.

indeed the ITX is not well though trough when it comes to GPU placement facing the CPU and maybe from reading previous posts here, could i turn GPU 90º with special *bracket and a PCIE riser *???

its not that i refuse liquid cooling is that by choice i opt for air because water is tricky, expensive and non-compatible with my ITX graphic


----------



## Jayrock

I think having a bigger cpu fan that also draws air front to back instead of the stock one would be a good idea.

EDIT: cooler and fan


----------



## Gilles3000

soundzen_PT said:


> bonjour Gilles, thanks for reply.
> 
> i dont know my temps, i only know that its very hot by touch, on the green backplate circuit board and the GPU fan its constantly spinning which stops when im only surfing the net and not gaming... specially on heavy playing 10H non-stop morning  my pc froze twice, during online game & after i slammed the table the pc is on out of frustration during battle LOL.
> (


You really need to monitor your GPU temps trough software, most backplates always feel hot.

You can either use MSI Afterburner, which has monitoring software build or a dedicated system wide monitoring software like like HWiNFO.


----------



## doyll

soundzen_PT said:


> hello club, i dropped my workdesk itx AZZA case and bought last week a PHANTEK evolv itx, its roomier and its better quality fr sure... the only downsize is the gap between GPU and PSU which brings no fresh air or fans breeze to the graphic.
> 
> *PIC --> https://imgur.com/vaF3UoR*
> 
> if you pros could tell me which fans INCH are best, in which position LOCATION and quantity please, since there is no watercooling for my gtx1660 super GPU = less problems and headaches with fans than liquid (pump, reservoir, leeks, replacement and PRICE are a no-no)... even for my intel 1151 chip CPU, im opting for a fan block (Arctic freezer esport 33, if it fits)
> 
> to help my burning GPU, im thinking of 4 fans of 120mm with RGB:
> 
> - 1X at back pulling out the hot air
> - 1X at front panel pushing in fresh air
> - 2X at top pushing in fresh air down on gpu
> ...maybe 2 push at the front + 1 pull at back are suficient???
> 
> to improve gpu breathing gap im thinking of placing my PSU more towards the front panel (which will loose the case intake of air, prepared at bottom of case) so that GPU can breath trough punctured middle plate in front of it.


What brand and model are the fans in each position. 

While Evolv ITX isn't best airflow case, it should cool your GPU no problem. But case fans have to have good pressure ratings and be mounted in proper positions. Just installing lots of fans does not mean case will flow air well. In fact your top intake fans are most likey causing GPU to run hotter. They are blowing the heated air coming off of downflow CPU cooler down toward GPU.

First thing to do is setup case airflow properly so you have good front to back airflow instead of the air blowing everywhere like it is now.

2x good pressure rated front intake fans with all openings not covered by fans blocked off so the air they push into case has to move through case and not leak back in front and go in circles. Remove all PCIe back slot covers to increase rear vent area around GPU. 

if GPU is still running hot, a small tower cooler with fan pushing air through cooler would help. Down flow / pancake CPU coolers are horrible things because the air goes through cooler, hits motherboard turnning out, hits RAM GPU, etc turning away from motherboard along side of cooler and fan where fan draws it back in. Small tower cooler draws air in from in front of cooler and pushes it out back toward rear vent. 

Below link to basic guide about how airflow works and how to optimize case airflow might help you better understand how case airflow needs to be setup.
https://www.overclock.net/forum/22319249-post5.html


----------



## soundzen_PT

thanks @Jay im on it, maybe a tower with double fans like Noctua, but they are ugly and no RGB - but i do fancy the Arctic freezer 33 green (i can always put RGB elsewhere into the case)

dear @GILLES but i dont see the use of installing temp App that tells me its obviously hot, since i cannot avoid it and it takes space and its constantly turned ON, in background, correct?

apreciate the link @doyll - the config i was thinking was 2x 120 at front, brings air trough CPU cooler (which is facing front/back) so airflow continues right-to-left, towards the back, like:

*https://imgur.com/qgB9i2B*

_maybe the 2 fans at top are to much, i understand..._

PS: my initial solution to the hot air clash in ORANGE, was to move PSU near front to let the GPU fan have its room at the back.
PS2: the size of cpu cooler is way bigger and closer to back fan 140mm, ooppss.


----------



## doyll

soundzen_PT said:


> apreciate the link @*doyll* - the config i was thinking was 2x 120 at front, brings air trough CPU cooler (which is facing front/back) so airflow continues right-to-left, towards the back, like:
> 
> *https://imgur.com/qgB9i2B*
> 
> _maybe the 2 fans at top are to much, i understand..._
> 
> PS: my initial solution to the hot air clash in ORANGE, was to move PSU near front to let the GPU fan have its room at the back.
> PS2: the size of cpu cooler is way bigger and closer to back fan 140mm, ooppss.


 Looking at your image looks like a cluster--mess. 



You didn't even answer the first thing I posted to you:
_*"What brand and model are the fans in each position?" 
*_
Many (maybe most) fans are worthless because their pressure rating is too low to overcome case resistance. Only fans with high pressure ratings can overcome case intake resistance and give us good airflow. 



Your have 2x fans pushinng air in back half of top. They are stopping the smooth flow from front intakes to CPU (& GPU) cooler causing airflow to go in circles and mix with other air.
PSU draws air from bottom of case and only exhaust it out the back. None of it's airflow moves down into PSU or forward toward front of case.
I don't think Evolv ITX even has a bottom intake, PU if the PSU case divider has lots of venting or better yet, is removed.
2x good pressure rated 140mm front intake fans will flow about 33% more air than 2x 120mm fans. Basic rule of thumb is 3x 120mm fans flow about the same amount of air as 2x 140mm fans of similar design.
You must block off all openings in panel intake fans are in so the air they are pushing into case has to move on though case and out, not leak out into intake area to be drawn back into fan going round and round and round instead of through case and out the back.
There is no reason to use exhaust fan in back. Just remove all PCIe slot cover to increase exhaust vent area around GPU so front (& maybe bottom) intake/s can flow past GPU and out back of case. Using both intake and exhaust is like using push/pull on coolers or radiators. Also more fans make more noise. The maximum difference is maybe 2-3c with fans at full speed. At same noise level just intake cool as well as intake and exhaust do.
Case must at least as much exhaust venting as intake venting. Smaller exhaust area than intake means less airflow becuase what flows in must flow out.


----------



## Gilles3000

soundzen_PT said:


> dear @GILLES but i dont see the use of installing temp App that tells me its obviously hot, since i cannot avoid it and it takes space and its constantly turned ON, in background,


There's no way you can physically tell that its hot, that's not how these things work. The backplate temperature is always hot as its coupled to stuff like the VRM and other aux. components. It has nothing to do with the temperature of the GPU's die itself.

The only way you can tell the temperature of the actual GPU is with software.

And HWiNFO barely takes up any space and once you close it, it completely off. You can just remove it once you're done testing it as well.


----------



## doyll

What Gilles3000 said. I have HWINFO running all the time and look at graph almost every day. It's a great way to keep track of resource use. If you see a jump in resource use ro higher temps I know to look for the cause.


----------



## soundzen_PT

> "What brand and model are the fans in each position?"


--> any decent fan under 30$ each, with RGB like Corsair or Cooler Master.



> Your have 2 fans pushinng air in back half of top. They are stopping the smooth flow from front intakes to CPU & GPU.


--> ok, i wont put fans at top panel



> PSU draws air from bottom of case and only exhaust it out the back.


--> my bad, the arrow is wrong direction then.



> I don't think Evolv ITX even has a bottom intake


--> PSY has its own bottom intake mesh



> the PSU case divider has lots of venting or better yet, is removed.


-->the case has a divider plate all way across that i can take out



> 2 good pressure rated 140mm front intake fans will flow about 33% more air than 2x 120mm fans.


--> ok, 2x 140mm at front



> You must block off all openings in panel intake fans are in so the air they are pushing into case has to move on though case and out


--> ok, i will block the top panel small mesh vents



> There is no reason to use exhaust fan in back. Just remove all PCIe slot cover to increase exhaust vent area around GPU[/LIST]


--> got it, no fans at back of case, just let the cpu cooler own fans do the pushing out... pcie lids already out.


----------



## doyll

soundzen_PT said:


> --> any decent fan under 30$ each, with RGB like Corsair or Cooler Master.
> 
> --> ok, i wont put fans at top panel
> 
> --> my bad, the arrow is wrong direction then.
> 
> --> PSY has its own bottom intake mesh
> 
> -->the case has a divider plate all way across that i can take out
> 
> --> ok, 2x 140mm at front
> 
> --> ok, i will block the top panel small mesh vents
> 
> --> got it, no fans at back of case, just let the cpu cooler own fans do the pushing out... pcie lids already out.


Sounds like it's sorted. :thumb:
Remeber that air flows like liquids do . If you move the amount of air in a box into case the same box amount of air has to come out of case. Sure, air does compress, but computer fans don't have enough push to compress air much at all. The pressure difference between intake and exhaust sides of a fan is about the same as the difference in air pressure between sea level and surface of dock 8 feet above water. It takes about 500 feet of elevation change to make our ears to notice / pop because of pressure change.


----------



## RoivonPC

For Luxe 2/719 users, what cable mod or ensourced cable lengths did you get for your custom build? Did you go full size 700? (Ensourced) or 900mm (Cable Mod)? If you used the shorter extensions instead of complete cable replacement was there enough room to handle all the wiring?


----------



## Nizzen

RoivonPC said:


> For Luxe 2/719 users, what cable mod or ensourced cable lengths did you get for your custom build? Did you go full size 700? (Ensourced) or 900mm (Cable Mod)? If you used the shorter extensions instead of complete cable replacement was there enough room to handle all the wiring?


I have problem with enough wiring too with 2x 2080ti. Looks like I need extensions. Have another problem with Luxe 2 and MSI 2080ti on th first slot. There is barly space for Displayport cable. The "iron bar" on the back is too low. I have to bend the GPU like crazy to get the DP cable in to the DP port nr 1. HDMI port has the same problem. Epic fail.

I have a 140mm fan in the back to blow cold air towards VRM and memory. The holes in the "grill" is too small, and I have to have fan on very low speed to not make "whine sound"

Sorry for the english 

There are other problems too for me. There is barly place to any radiator on top with my Asus X299 Apex MB. 3x120mm and 3x140mm radiator interfer with the m.2 dimm card side by side to the memory slot.

Is it just me with problems with Luxe 2 (719)?


----------



## soundzen_PT

thanks again @doyll, im saving up for these MasteCooler RGB stuff:
1x cpu cooler Master Air MA410M --> https://www.coolermaster.com/catalog/coolers/cpu-air-coolers/masterair-ma410m/
2x 140mm Master Fan MR140F --> https://www.coolermaster.com/catalog/coolers/case-fan/masterfan-mf140r-rgb/
and to clean up the cable management, i have my eyes on these neon green Cables from Phantek:
--> https://www.globaldata.pt/kit-de-expansao-phanteks-cabos-sleeved-50cm-verde-ph-cb-cmbo-gr


----------



## soundzen_PT

*Problems *

1 - it rarely happens but... when i start up my phantek pc top button, all starts to wake up, and light up and spin but then it suddenly shuts down and keeps trying to start continuously??? yesterday after 5x i manage to have my pc working. it was after i did some cable management and unplug/replug cables before starting up pc again

2 - when i move around my pc on the table (without unplugging any cable) i lose my mouse and keyboard - so i cannot reset pc from start menu icon. The tweak: "control + alt + del" doesnt allow me to access the power off menu, either... im left only with the trick of holding down for 5sec. the power top button (since the phantek doesnt have a RESET button on front panel - its for led swaping)


----------



## doyll

soundzen_PT said:


> *Problems *
> 
> 1 - it rarely happens but... when i start up my phantek pc top button, all starts to wake up, and light up and spin but then it suddenly shuts down and keeps trying to start continuously??? yesterday after 5x i manage to have my pc working. it was after i did some cable management and unplug/replug cables before starting up pc again
> 
> 2 - when i move around my pc on the table (without unplugging any cable) i lose my mouse and keyboard - so i cannot reset pc from start menu icon. The tweak: "control + alt + del" doesnt allow me to access the power off menu, either... im left only with the trick of holding down for 5sec. the power top button (since the phantek doesnt have a RESET button on front panel - its for led swaping)


These kinds of problems can be a real nightmare to figure out. I've found it best to take system out of case and test with it laying on cardboard or in a dedicated test station. This way system is isolated from case so if case is causing the problems we know it right away.


----------



## JustinThyme

soundzen_PT said:


> *Problems *
> 
> 1 - it rarely happens but... when i start up my phantek pc top button, all starts to wake up, and light up and spin but then it suddenly shuts down and keeps trying to start continuously??? yesterday after 5x i manage to have my pc working. it was after i did some cable management and unplug/replug cables before starting up pc again
> 
> 2 - when i move around my pc on the table (without unplugging any cable) i lose my mouse and keyboard - so i cannot reset pc from start menu icon. The tweak: "control + alt + del" doesnt allow me to access the power off menu, either... im left only with the trick of holding down for 5sec. the power top button (since the phantek doesnt have a RESET button on front panel - its for led swaping)


This has little to do with the case and sounds like cable management issues or loose connections. 

Under power options in windows there should be an option for a momentary push of the power button to shut down that should actually be default. Just push it once and it should shut down. If not then you have underlying problems with something locking up. Also if your USB stops working and unplugging it and plugging it back in doesn’t put it back to working the device, drivers or MOBO has issues.


----------



## ciarlatano

JustinThyme said:


> This has little to do with the case and sounds like cable management issues or loose connections.


Yup, or a dirty switch. Sounds like a spritz of Blue Shower Contact Cleaner may be in order.


----------



## soundzen_PT

thanks guys, no dust to soon - maybe loose cables indeed... but pc is touchy LOL when i hit the table (after dying during game) that my mouse Glorious and keyboard CoolerMaster both freeze (or even the PC itself) and i must shut down it hard way (5sec. power button) although i do need to buy those fans and cpu cooler ASAP, but virus wont let me GRRRR - if it helps, ive unplugged case panel connectors that i dont need - such as front audio headphones and usb 3.0 - im still figuring out where on the I/0 switch, i must plug my case HDD LED connector, to see the front led, light up when pc is on *sighs*


----------



## KCDC

Your best option is unplugging everything non-essential from the mobo, basically everything but power and cpu fans, start the process of elimination a cable at a time. Even better if your mobo has on-board power/reset buttons then you can unplug the signal wires.



If it's still doing it with just the essentials plugged in, then you've further isolated the issue, albeit something more serious but just start there instead of spending hours playing the guessing game.


----------



## soundzen_PT

just a silly idea but...
since my phanteks package didnt come with a EU power cable, im using the one from my tiny ASUS VIVO PC
would voltage be the problem of my gaming pc trying to turn on and shutting down, yesterday again?


----------



## RoivonPC

I'm finally starting assembly of my 719 build and I'm running into a snag. Does the bottom fan mounting plate need to just not used when trying to bottom mount a radiator? I'm trying to mount the Fan plate > fans > radiator and the bolts are just not long enough. They're the same screws that came with the rad.


I figured it out, the rad I'm using on the bottom has about a 1 to 2 mm indent that's hindering the mounting. Time to hunt for longer bolts.


----------



## Rainmaker91

soundzen_PT said:


> just a silly idea but...
> since my phanteks package didnt come with a EU power cable, im using the one from my tiny ASUS VIVO PC
> would voltage be the problem of my gaming pc trying to turn on and shutting down, yesterday again?


I don't know the specifics about that cable, but let's assume you are referring to a standard IEC 60320 C13/C14 with the other end being connector "Schuko"/CEE 7/4. These Schuko connectors are designed to handle [email protected] up to 16a, which translates to 3680 watts, while the IEC 60320 C13/C14 connector can handle max 10A, which means 2300w. In general this means that any cable designed to use the IEC 60320 C13/C14 should handle at least 10A, which at 230v is 2300w.

So in short, any PSU that is above 1100w needs a different cable to be legal in countries with the proper regulations in place. Now if we are talking about a cable with the IEC 60320 C7/C8 and a europlug/C5/CEE 7/16 then those are designed for a much lower power draw at only 2.5A and would legally only be used on appliances with a max power draw of 275w, though on a 230v power source it can actually handle 575w.

In short, as long as you didn't hack this thing together by yourself or order from suspect sources then any cable will be fine.

Edit: My numbers are calculated based on the presumption that a PSU is designed to operate between 110v and 250v, thus my numbers are based on a calculation where 110v x Øa = the legal power draw of the appliance (Ø=the specified design limit of the connector measured in amperes). The reality is more likely to be 100v as most power supplies operate in the range of 100v-250v so any PSU above 1000W or 250w would not even fit with the specified cables. While the voltage isn't unimportant in this calculation a cable can usually handle a much higher voltage than current, which is why we use high voltage lines to transport power over large distances rather than high current lines.

Edit 2: Added links for the Europlug and C7/C8. I also corrected misspelled words.


----------



## pamnos aerfg

helo because i am interesting to buy the phantec elite http://www.phanteks.com/Enthoo-Elite.html can someone help me because i have some questions for this case.. ?

does anyone has build in that case???


is it worth to buy it for xtream water cooling options?? does it have alot of watercooling options??

this case is very big??

what about the quality,, rgb lights ,, glass door and material quality?? for this case??

the space for this case is very big?? can you add alot of things?? in this case??


this case is very modular??


also why elite is very expensive>> ?? 1000 euros costs..
why e;lite is more expensive from all the cases in the market/ with less money

do you agree??


----------



## Rainmaker91

pamnos aerfg said:


> helo because i am interesting to buy the phantec elite http://www.phanteks.com/Enthoo-Elite.html can someone help me because i have some questions for this case.. ?
> 
> does anyone has build in that case???
> 
> 
> is it worth to buy it for xtream water cooling options?? does it have alot of watercooling options??
> 
> this case is very big??
> 
> what about the quality,, rgb lights ,, glass door and material quality?? for this case??
> 
> the space for this case is very big?? can you add alot of things?? in this case??
> 
> 
> this case is very modular??
> 
> 
> also why elite is very expensive>> ?? 1000 euros costs..
> why e;lite is more expensive from all the cases in the market/ with less money
> 
> do you agree??


The Elite is expensive just because... No but honestly it's decent case, it's just not going to be worth it for most people. It does have some design elements that imediatly makes it more expensive to manufacture such as the 4mm thick aluminium plates that covers the entirety of the outside of the case which are also bent in some ways that inherently costs more to do. It's expensive becasue it costs more to make, and at the same time it gets even more expensive becasue they don't expect to sell a lot of them and thus don't benefit from the cost reduction that comes with mass producing cases.

If all you want is a good case with lots of watercooling options then there are other alternatives that provide most of the benefits for a fraction of the cost. They won't be as "premium" on the surface, but they will deliver most of the functionaliy for a cheaper price, which ultimately gives you more cash to spend on other stuff.

If it's the only case offering what you want and you don't mind the price then it's not a bad case, it's just expensive. Otherwise maybe you should look at something like the Phanteks Enthoo 719 or maybe something from other manufacturers like Be Quiet, Fractal Design, Cooler Master or Corsair (there are others to ofcourse, just giving options for now).

If you don't mind me asking, what exactly are the criterias that you have for a case? Things like radiator support, motherboard support... and anything else that you can think of would help with giving you a better overview of the cases that are available to you.


----------



## ciarlatano

pamnos aerfg said:


> helo because i am interesting to buy the phantec elite http://www.phanteks.com/Enthoo-Elite.html can someone help me because i have some questions for this case.. ?
> 
> does anyone has build in that case???
> 
> 
> is it worth to buy it for xtream water cooling options?? does it have alot of watercooling options??
> 
> this case is very big??
> 
> what about the quality,, rgb lights ,, glass door and material quality?? for this case??
> 
> the space for this case is very big?? can you add alot of things?? in this case??
> 
> 
> this case is very modular??
> 
> 
> also why elite is very expensive>> ?? 1000 euros costs..
> why e;lite is more expensive from all the cases in the market/ with less money
> 
> do you agree??


The Elite liquid coolers have a thread here - https://www.overclock.net/forum/61-water-cooling/1624672-phanteks-enthoo-elite-discussion.html

That group is specific to your question.


----------



## Gilles3000

Rainmaker91 said:


> Spoiler
> 
> 
> 
> The Elite is expensive just because... No but honestly it's decent case, it's just not going to be worth it for most people. It does have some design elements that imediatly makes it more expensive to manufacture such as the 4mm thick aluminium plates that covers the entirety of the outside of the case which are also bent in some ways that inherently costs more to do. It's expensive becasue it costs more to make, and at the same time it gets even more expensive becasue they don't expect to sell a lot of them and thus don't benefit from the cost reduction that comes with mass producing cases.
> 
> If all you want is a good case with lots of watercooling options then there are other alternatives that provide most of the benefits for a fraction of the cost. They won't be as "premium" on the surface, but they will deliver most of the functionaliy for a cheaper price, which ultimately gives you more cash to spend on other stuff.
> 
> If it's the only case offering what you want and you don't mind the price then it's not a bad case, it's just expensive. Otherwise maybe you should look at something like the Phanteks Enthoo 719 or maybe something from other manufacturers like Be Quiet, Fractal Design, Cooler Master or Corsair (there are others to ofcourse, just giving options for now).
> 
> If you don't mind me asking, what exactly are the criterias that you have for a case? Things like radiator support, motherboard support... and anything else that you can think of would help with giving you a better overview of the cases that are available to you


Just ignore this guy, he's a spammer that just keeps repeating questions endlessly , and just makes a new account when he eventually gets banned again. He has no intention of actually buying any of it.

Just look at his other threads, it's always the same deal.


----------



## Rainmaker91

Gilles3000 said:


> Just ignore this guy, he's a spammer that just keeps repeating questions endlessly , and just makes a new account when he eventually gets banned again. He has no intention of actually buying any of it.
> 
> Just look at his other threads, it's always the same deal.


Ultimately it really doesn't matter. Writing answers in a forum is just as much about putting them out there for others to find as to actually answer the person posing the question. About half the answers I find to stuff that I can't figure out is found by either using the search option on the forums or simply getting linked a forum post while using Google. That said, I'm not about to repeat the answer again in 10 pages if it gets asked again.

But thanks for the info.


----------



## Gilles3000

Rainmaker91 said:


> Ultimately it really doesn't matter. Writing answers in a forum is just as much about putting them out there for others to find as to actually answer the person posing the question. About half the answers I find to stuff that I can't figure out is found by either using the search option on the forums or simply getting linked a forum post while using Google. That said, I'm not about to repeat the answer again in 10 pages if it gets asked again.
> 
> But thanks for the info.


Yep, I joined in quite a few times for the same reason, but its kind of pointless since all his threads/posts and any conversations involving his bs just get deleted anyway.

Just figured i warned people here before this drags on into multiple pages again.


----------



## Rainmaker91

Gilles3000 said:


> Yep, I joined in quite a few times for the same reason, but its kind of pointless since all his threads/posts and any conversations involving his bs just get deleted anyway.
> 
> Just figured i warned people here before this drags on into multiple pages again.


Fair enough


----------



## ciarlatano

Gilles3000 said:


> Just ignore this guy, he's a spammer that just keeps repeating questions endlessly , and just makes a new account when he eventually gets banned again. He has no intention of actually buying any of it.
> 
> Just look at his other threads, it's always the same deal.


Hmmmm....wonder if it's the same one with the endless loop questions for a year plus.....


----------



## pamnos aerfg

Gilles3000 said:


> Yep, I joined in quite a few times for the same reason, but its kind of pointless since all his threads/posts and any conversations involving his bs just get deleted anyway.
> 
> Just figured i warned people here before this drags on into multiple pages again.




what problem you have with ,me/?


----------



## pamnos aerfg

Rainmaker91 said:


> Fair enough





i didnt do something bad my friened/./


i just asked for this case

is it bad because i am asking some questions??


----------



## doyll

pamnos aerfg said:


> what problem you have with ,me/?


why do post one line then immediately post another line?


----------



## pamnos aerfg

i ask my apologizes my friend


----------



## Tweetbix

Hey all, just wondering if there is a way of changing the push clips that hold the top panel/filter on the enthoo primo?
One of the tabs on the filter have broken, and the other side push clip no longer locks in place.
Cheers all for any suggestions


----------



## ciarlatano

Tweetbix said:


> Hey all, just wondering if there is a way of changing the push clips that hold the top panel/filter on the enthoo primo?
> One of the tabs on the filter have broken, and the other side push clip no longer locks in place.
> Cheers all for any suggestions


Contact Phanteks customer service. They can replace them for you. I also seem to recall Phanteks clips being sold on eBay cheap.


----------



## doyll

Tweetbix said:


> Hey all, just wondering if there is a way of changing the push clips that hold the top panel/filter on the enthoo primo?
> One of the tabs on the filter have broken, and the other side push clip no longer locks in place.
> Cheers all for any suggestions


 What ciarlatano said. :thumb:
They are a standard push latch, but not easy to find.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2x-Push-...816164?hash=item2ee3f28024:g:R5wAAOSwECZUq92l

https://www.ebay.com/itm/2x-Push-Op...816164?hash=item2ee3f28024:g:R5wAAOSwECZUq92l

https://www.ebay.co.uk/str/pelicanoceanltdtapelican474


----------



## mattxx88

hi all, cannot find any info about the Evolv X universal fan hub

how many watt / ampere can handle per channel?

my goal is to connect a Laing DDC3.25 pump wich is rated 18W (no mentions about Ampere) on the other hand inside Evolv X manual i can see it can support up 4A per channel
so i wonder if i can connect the pump to a 3 pin header of the hub


----------



## doyll

mattxx88 said:


> hi all, cannot find any info about the Evolv X universal fan hub
> 
> how many watt / ampere can handle per channel?
> 
> my goal is to connect a Laing DDC3.25 pump wich is rated 18W (no mentions about Ampere) on the other hand inside Evolv X manual i can see it can support up 4A per channel
> so i wonder if i can connect the pump to a 3 pin header of the hub


 I've seen them advertised but have not used one. Below is link to it's manual if you don't have one.
http://phanteks.com/assets/manuals/PH-PWHUB_02.pdf


----------



## Rainmaker91

mattxx88 said:


> hi all, cannot find any info about the Evolv X universal fan hub
> 
> how many watt / ampere can handle per channel?
> 
> my goal is to connect a Laing DDC3.25 pump wich is rated 18W (no mentions about Ampere) on the other hand inside Evolv X manual i can see it can support up 4A per channel
> so i wonder if i can connect the pump to a 3 pin header of the hub


Most components in a computer runs on 12v, and all watercooling pumps that I know of do so including the DDC. 

So 18w means it's 18W/12V=1.5A

Edit: It said 18V instead of 18W like it was supposed to, it's fixed now.


----------



## mattxx88

doyll said:


> I've seen them advertised but have not used one. Below is link to it's manual if you don't have one.
> http://phanteks.com/assets/manuals/PH-PWHUB_02.pdf


i was not sure if the naked one installed in retail Evolv X was the same as you linked

anyway it seems to be that one yes!
thanks!!


----------



## mattxx88

Rainmaker91 said:


> Most components in a computer runs on 12v, and all watercooling pumps that I know of do so including the DDC.
> 
> So 18w means it's 18V/12V=1.5A


also thanks to you for the formula, it's not my business electronic things


----------



## Rainmaker91

mattxx88 said:


> also thanks to you for the formula, it's not my business electronic things


No problem, it's supposed to say 18w in that equation though 

For future reference:
If you know voltage and amphere and want to figure out watt : V x A = W
If you know amphere and watt and want to figure out voltage: W / A = V
If you know voltage and watt and want to figure out amphere: W / V = A

I think that should be correct, but I would not be to surprised if I fudged up the formula when I want to help other people with it :wheee:


----------



## mattxx88

i'm a bit confused now

the case manual, reports that using a splitter it's allowed up to max 4A.
this makes me suppose this is per channel, seeing that you connect 1 splitter to 1 channel










But in the manual of the stand alone controller, speaks about a "total power output" 










what do you think about? how we should intend this?


----------



## Rainmaker91

mattxx88 said:


> i'm a bit confused now
> 
> the case manual, reports that using a splitter it's allowed up to max 4A.
> this makes me suppose this is per channel, seeing that you connect 1 splitter to 1 channel
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But in the manual of the stand alone controller, speaks about a "total power output"
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> what do you think about? how we should intend this?


Most fan controllers are restricted on the total power draw as well as the power draw for each channel.

the specs that you posted sugests that specific controller is designed to handle in total 48W @ 12V and 12W @ 12V for each channel. In general you can exceede this, but you do risk having issues with heat and without proper cooling the fan controller can essentially melt/burn. Add a heatsink to the fets and you should improve it somewhat, but again it is not designed for it.

For cheap but powerful fan controllers that can handle a decent amount of power, check out these on Aliexpress. They have a wide range with a linear controll for whatever is connected to them, but do keep in mind that you want some airflow over them (or at the very least don't stuff them in a part of the case where there is no air around them).

Edit: For the aliexpress controller, you want one of those with a heatsink as they can handle more power.


----------



## mattxx88

this makes me wonder why my water loop don't work as it did in the previous build

my DDC is running with 0.5A less than it should (18w, 1.5A if i'm right)


----------



## Rainmaker91

mattxx88 said:


> this makes me wonder why my water loop don't work as it did in the previous build
> 
> my DDC is running with 0.5A less than it should (18w, 1.5A if i'm right)


It's likely getting all the power, it's just putting a bit of a strain on the channel of the fan controller. Given that the total power design is 4A though I don't suspect it's all that much of an issue. I can't say for certain as I have no idea if Phanteks included any way of limiting the power draw on their controllers rather than just letting it draw as much as it wants.


----------



## mattxx88

Rainmaker91 said:


> It's likely getting all the power, it's just putting a bit of a strain on the channel of the fan controller. Given that the total power design is 4A though I don't suspect it's all that much of an issue. I can't say for certain as I have no idea if Phanteks included any way of limiting the power draw on their controllers rather than just letting it draw as much as it wants.


well, reading this point "max connector power output"










this tells me the max output for each connector is 1A

so for example if you saturate 4 connectors with a draw of 1A each, the other 3 connectors shouldn't work.


----------



## Rainmaker91

mattxx88 said:


> well, reading this point "max connector power output"
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> this tells me the max output for each connector is 1A
> 
> so for example if you saturate 4 connectors with a draw of 1A each, the other 3 connectors shouldn't work.


Only if it has any way of limiting power output at all, which ton of fan controllers do not. the design however is specced for 1A each channel and total 4A on the board, which means that anything more than that you will start getting issues with heat, and possibly power loss to components due to to restrictive power lines (in this case copper traces on the PCB). Like I said you might get full power to your pump and you might not. Either way you are outside of spec, and there are inherent risks in doing that with all things.


----------



## mattxx88

Rainmaker91 said:


> Only if it has any way of limiting power output at all, which ton of fan controllers do not. the design however is specced for 1A each channel and total 4A on the board, which means that anything more than that you will start getting issues with heat, and possibly power loss to components due to to restrictive power lines (in this case copper traces on the PCB). Like I said you might get full power to your pump and you might not. Either way you are outside of spec, and there are inherent risks in doing that with all things.


Ah ok, now i get what you mean
anyway tonight i'll try connecting pump direct to psu and check any difference. thanks for your support


----------



## Rainmaker91

mattxx88 said:


> Ah ok, now i get what you mean
> anyway tonight i'll try connecting pump direct to psu and check any difference. thanks for your support


No problem, check out those fan controllers that I linked if you can't use what you have. Though shipping from China at the moment might be a mixed bag, so you might also start looking at stuff locally and maybe even making one yourself with a potentiometer or some resistors (not that hard to do if you know how to solder stuff). Hope it all works out for you.


----------



## doyll

Also, the amp/watt rating of pump and fans that is most often published is running load. For a second, often a faction of a second when fan/pump is starting up it draws 3-5 times more power .. and if bearing freezes up or fan impeller is stopped the motor keeps drawign 3-5 times more power. This is why almost every time we hear of someone burning up fan headers or fan controller the failure occurs when they start the system up .. when all the fans are drawing 3-5 times more powe than specifications show. Only fans I know of that give startup as well as running loads are commercial fans like Nidec-servo Gentle Typhoon specs which you can see in below image.


----------



## RoivonPC

So I'm using a lot of cues from this build...can someone tell me how he's draining it completely? From what I'm seeing once the reservoir is empty that's it, he can't pump anymore. Secondary external pump just for draining?


----------



## Rainmaker91

RoivonPC said:


> So I'm using a lot of cues from this build...can someone tell me how he's draining it completely? From what I'm seeing once the reservoir is empty that's it, he can't pump anymore. Secondary external pump just for draining?


You don't drain a loop by using the pump, that will quicly make it burn out unless you have one that is lubricated (and none of the go to watercooling pumps do that). There are some loop design desitions in that build that while it make it possible to drain will make it difficult to do propperly.

A Few design cues that you should follow to give yourself an easier time of draining a loop:
1. Have some way of venting the top most point of the loop (ideally a radiator with both front and back inlets such as the Alphacool NexXxoS v2 radiators), if you don't have a top mounted radiator then run a bleed line to the top from your top most point in the loop (swivel and T-fitting can be used to do this if you only have one inlet/outlet)
2. Have the draining port placed at the very bottom of your loop, if you have a bottom mounted radiator that is ideally done in the same way as the bleeding valve. If not you will have to run the line from somewhere else.

There are otehr ways around this, but mostly they include twisting and turning your case a lot to get the loop properly drained. I can show you how I'm setting a drain system up in my Enthoo primo if you want some cues as to how to do it with minimal issues.


----------



## RoivonPC

I can go into more detail later but. My rads are hardware labs gts, only dual port. Not. Multi port.


----------



## Rainmaker91

RoivonPC said:


> I can go into more detail later but. My rads are hardware labs gts, only dual port. Not. Multi port.


I see that makes things trickier, but not impossible. How are you planing to mount them in the case, and what case is it? Some difficulties have to be accounted for with any build for both bleeding and draining, but you can design it to aleviate some of the issues with some clever tricks (For example placing front radiator with inlets down, makes it harder to bleed but way easier to drain unless you don't mind putting the case upside down).


----------



## RoivonPC

Here's the current mock up. Phanteks 719. No idea why it uploaded sideways...observe it 90 degrees clock wise. 




Rainmaker91 said:


> I see that makes things trickier, but not impossible. How are you planing to mount them in the case, and what case is it? Some difficulties have to be accounted for with any build for both bleeding and draining, but you can design it to aleviate some of the issues with some clever tricks (For example placing front radiator with inlets down, makes it harder to bleed but way easier to drain unless you don't mind putting the case upside down).


----------



## Rainmaker91

RoivonPC said:


> Here's the current mock up. Phanteks 719. No idea why it uploaded sideways...


That is not goint to be easy to either bleed or drain, and there isn't really a lot that can be done to fix that. Still there are some steps that can be taken, first a couple of questions though:

- When bleeding and draining the loop, how comfortable are you with putting the case on its side, upside down, or front up?
- How are you planning to do the CPU and GPU run?


----------



## RoivonPC

Well the layout was making sense to me from my original post but if I need to order more parts I can. 



https://www.overclock.net/forum/161...ase-club-lovers-owners-2095.html#post28419034


----------



## Rainmaker91

RoivonPC said:


> Well the layout was making sense to me from my original post but if I need to order more parts I can.
> 
> 
> 
> https://www.overclock.net/forum/161...ase-club-lovers-owners-2095.html#post28419034


The setup is fine, it's just that the combination of front, top and bottom radiator will make it difficult to get a smooth transition of air and water between the parts (and thus making bleeding and draining difficult).

I'll take a look at it a bit more in depth and see what would be best. Still I doubt you can get away from having to turn the case both with the front up and upside down when draining and bleeding the loop (that is the beauty of multi port rads, they instantly give you the lowest and highest point in the loop to drain and bleed from).


----------



## Rainmaker91

A quick look at it I can see 2 feasible ways of properly draining and bleeding the system:

Colour codes:
- Red = drain and bleed valves
- Blue = parts that were not in the pictures like radiators, reservoirs and graphics card.
- Green = the tubing runs

First option includes having a bleed valve at the very front of the case, ideally a T fitting foing off the front radiator and then making a U shape past it to the front. Then there will be another T fitting on the rear run between the bottom radiator and the top radiator. This all involves having the case positioned with the front facing in the air when draining.








Then there is the option to put a drain valve so that you will have to put the case on it's side to drain it. Simply put just add some T fittings and a bleed valve and a drain valve on each side of the case, then you just put the case on it's side to drain the loop. This will likely not work as well as puting it with the front of the case up though, but it will work.








The drawings are crude, and the runs could use a bit of work. I hope it's clear enough to understand though.


----------



## RoivonPC

Should I consider getting 2 X flow rads instead? One for the top and one for the front? The bottom rad has to remain due to dimensions.


*Edit* Nevermind it won't fit.


----------



## Rainmaker91

RoivonPC said:


> Should I consider getting 2 X flow rads instead? One for the top and one for the front? The bottom rad has to remain due to dimensions.
> 
> 
> *Edit* Nevermind it won't fit.


It would be better, but if you were to swap the radiators then you might as well get some multiport radiators instead. At any rate, if you already have some it would be wasteful to get new ones. Draining and bleeding is always a difficult task when doing a loop, and designing for it isn't always that easy either. The rear drain port that I sugested will work perfectly fine as it will be the lowest point in the loop. It does however require you to put your case with the front up when draining, and adding a bleed valve at the front of the case would make draining easier and quicker to do.


----------



## thekingbeyond

Various Phanteks fans that are fitted to new cases, the one on the right from the p600s, left fan comes from the P300 and the centre fan comes from the P300A. The one in the middle was fitted as the rear fan and is quite heavy compared to to other 120mm fans, maybe designed for radiator use, as usual no model number on the fans,is there any information about on these fans?


----------



## ciarlatano

thekingbeyond said:


> Various Phanteks fans that are fitted to new cases, the one on the right from the p600s, left fan comes from the P300 and the centre fan comes from the P300A. The one in the middle was fitted as the rear fan and is quite heavy compared to to other 120mm fans, maybe designed for radiator use, as usual no model number on the fans,is there any information about on these fans?


What you have there is.....

On the left is a stripped down version of the F120MP. Essentially same fan, with the niceties of the retail version missing.
On the right is an F140SP with an F140MP impeller....or a lower RPM F140MP if you want to look at it that way, again with the niceties of the retail version not included.
In the center is a really cheap fan designed to look like a Nidec GT. It doesn't perform anything like a Nidec GT, though. It's not designed for rad use (0.96 mm H2O SP....yikes), it's simply designed to look like a Nidec GT and be really cheap. There is a reason this fan is only used in their extreme budget cases. Here are the woeful specs from MetallicGear, where it is marketed as the "Skiron 120mm" - http://metallicgear.com/Skiron-Black-120


----------



## thekingbeyond

ciarlatano said:


> What you have there is.....
> 
> On the left is a stripped down version of the F120MP. Essentially same fan, with the niceties of the retail version missing.
> On the right is an F140SP with an F140MP impeller....or a lower RPM F140MP if you want to look at it that way, again with the niceties of the retail version not included.
> In the center is a really cheap fan designed to look like a Nidec GT. It doesn't perform anything like a Nidec GT, though. It's not designed for rad use (0.96 mm H2O SP....yikes), it's simply designed to look like a Nidec GT and be really cheap. There is a reason this fan is only used in their extreme budget cases. Here are the woeful specs from MetallicGear, where it is marketed as the "Skiron 120mm" - http://metallicgear.com/Skiron-Black-120


Thanks for the info, all the fans are 3 pin, the F120MP maxes out at 1250 rpm, the Nidec GT copy 1230 rpm with a nasty whine at high speed, the hybrid F140MP @1240 RPM. The 3 x 140mm fans I have and the F120MP don't seem that bad, they will probably find their way into a cheap customer build.


----------



## XtachiX

I have my 719 on the way. Should arrive in a couple days.


----------



## oz120

I am still running the original Phateks Luxe Case in White and love it. Next new case might be a mid tower cause this thing has yet to fit on any desk I have owed since I got it.


----------



## nyk20z3

Going back in time a little with a 6700K and Maximus IX Extreme, Currently on a 8700K, Asus Z390-i Gaming, Strix 2080 Super but i like to have a few builds going at one time. For any one that is not aware EK makes a distro plate for the Evolv X now and this is what it looks like.


----------



## sonic2911

$5 mod help me through this summer









Sent from my SM-N975U1 using Tapatalk


----------



## mattxx88

nice idea


----------



## doyll

sonic2911 said:


> $5 mod help me through this summer
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U1 using Tapatalk


Looks nice. Could you post an image of it installed so we can see how far it moves front forward?


----------



## sonic2911

doyll said:


> Looks nice. Could you post an image of it installed so we can see how far it moves front forward?


The spacer is .5" and two 1/4 washers.









Sent from my SM-N975U1 using Tapatalk


----------



## doyll

sonic2911 said:


> The spacer is .5" and two 1/4 washers.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U1 using Tapatalk


Thanks, I saw the spacer and screw wrappers, didn't know about the washers. I'm guessing they are about 1/8-5/64" spacing front out about 5/8" (0.579"), and that about doubles the space between front and other panels which approximately doubles front intake airflow area.


----------



## pez

I still to this day love the snot out of my F120MPs. I don't have any Phanteks cases anymore, but I've never been so pleased with a fan through several builds (even SFF ones).


----------



## MikeTimbers

Nothing too special but it shows the immense space in a P600S. 280mm in the roof, 420mmx60m in the front, yet the space left over easily takes a 1070 and a TitanX with a DDC/XSPC res for good measure. This system is hidden behind my TV and is simply there for folding silently. The tube run was intended to have the least possible tubing.


----------



## thekingbeyond

looking for a cheap case for a friend who can't stretch to a p600s, got him a meshify c in the end, but came across this homage to the p600s, ok it's a knock off . But they have added rgb to the front panel at least 

https://www.tecware.co/nexus-evo


----------



## Gilles3000

thekingbeyond said:


> looking for a cheap case for a friend who can't stretch to a p600s, got him a meshify c in the end, but came across this homage to the p600s, ok it's a knock off . But they have added rgb to the front panel at least
> 
> https://www.tecware.co/nexus-evo


lol, karma is a ...


----------



## ciarlatano

Gilles3000 said:


> lol, karma is a ...


Ha! MetallicGear PCO11.


----------



## Melan

Got my P300A today. PSU bay is claustrophobic as hell. I barely managed to get those cables sorted on my supernova 650 g2 so there's no conflict with HDD tray.
But overall I like this case. Once 140mm SW3 come around it will finally be able to breathe. Definitely an upgrade from my old obsidian 550D.


----------



## Nitethorn

So I've been using a P400S for almost 2 years but comparing my temps (cpu, chipset, gpu) to a lot of other people with similar hardware I'm thinking my airflow might not be as good as it can be. I've modded the front cover to help with airflow which you can see from the system pics in my signature. I'm running 3 120mm fans as intake on the front (2 evga fans from their clc cooler and a cougar fan), I'm running a Noctua IPPC 2000 120mm fan at the rear as intake, and I have my 240mm aio rad mounted to the top (it's slightly offset to make it fit, barely clears my ram but I made it work) with 2 Noctua IPPC 2000 fans on it. It is set as the only exhaust. Considering the fan pool I have, what would be your recommendation to attempt to get temps down any at all? I do also have a small 80mm (I think?, 80 or a little smaller) fan sitting on the backplate of my GPU, blowing down to help cool the GPU as well.


----------



## Bride

Here we are! Phanteks P400 Eclipse, an AIO ID Cooling Frostflow X360, 4x 120 Noctua NF-P12 Redux, 2x Noctua NF-P14s Redux. A 9900KS with closed panels and an ambient temperature around 30 ~ 35 degrees.


----------



## doyll

Well done Bride! :thumb:


----------



## Astral85

Watercooled P600S owner here. Love the case. I've got my on the Enthoo Pro II they unveiled at CES 2020, just waiting for Phanteks to hurry up an release it...


----------



## SgtMunky

Just have one photo of my new build in the Enthoo Evolv X to hand so thought I‘d share, will add more if you like buts it’s pretty average :/ need to get my head around rgb still


----------



## Astral85

SgtMunky said:


> Just have one photo of my new build in the Enthoo Evolv X to hand so thought I‘d share, will add more if you like buts it’s pretty average :/ need to get my head around rgb still


Looks very nice and tidy. Congrats.


----------



## SgtMunky

Astral85 said:


> Looks very nice and tidy. Congrats.


Thanks  I need to look into how to diy daisy chain the LL120’s together, the cabling first the rgb is insane alone


----------



## Astral85

SgtMunky said:


> Thanks  I need to look into how to diy daisy chain the LL120’s together, the cabling first the rgb is insane alone


What do you mean daisy chain together? Are your fans PWM cables plugged into the motherboard or the Phanteks Evolv X fan controller? The RGB wires of the fans should be plugged into a Corsair Fan Hub and controlled using iCUE software...


----------



## SgtMunky

Astral85 said:


> What do you mean daisy chain together? Are your fans PWM cables plugged into the motherboard or the Phanteks Evolv X fan controller? The RGB wires of the fans should be plugged into a Corsair Fan Hub and controlled using iCUE software...


I have 7 LL120 fans plugged into 2 controller pro’s, two rgb components from the case going to the motherboard rgb headers (iirc), the AIO I assume I plugged into the 2nd commander pro, and I have 2x Corsair lighting flexi-strip things to plug in and find somewhere to fit cables. 

What I meant by daisy chain; Is there a way to combine, for example, both the front and inside RGB strips for the case into a) 1 motherboard header or 2) take instruction from iCue somehow

I like having the customisations with aRGB, but I don’t tend to have different components on different lighting settings (except the RAM) so figured if I could (just theory) have 1 or 2 rgb cables for all 7 fans, rather than the 7 rgb cables and 7 power cables


----------



## nyk20z3

Up and running for now but i have a few adjustments to make....


----------



## Astral85

SgtMunky said:


> I have 7 LL120 fans plugged into 2 controller pro’s, two rgb components from the case going to the motherboard rgb headers (iirc), the AIO I assume I plugged into the 2nd commander pro, and I have 2x Corsair lighting flexi-strip things to plug in and find somewhere to fit cables.
> 
> What I meant by daisy chain; Is there a way to combine, for example, both the front and inside RGB strips for the case into a) 1 motherboard header or 2) take instruction from iCue somehow
> 
> I like having the customisations with aRGB, but I don’t tend to have different components on different lighting settings (except the RAM) so figured if I could (just theory) have 1 or 2 rgb cables for all 7 fans, rather than the 7 rgb cables and 7 power cables


I don't think so. Each Corsair RGB fan has to have it's RGB wire plugged into the lighting HUB to be able to correctly control the fans lighting. You can run a maximum of two LL fan power cables on a PWM splitter cable. For example I have six Corsair RGB fans but only five available PWM plugs on my Commander Pro as I'm using one for my water cooling pump. So I have two fan PWM cables connected to a PWM splitter cable on the Commander Pro... I know it's a lot of cables. What helps for me is if I draw a diagram so I know what plug on the HUB and Commander Pro each fan is plugged into. 

Do you have Corsair LED strips? They plug into one of the lighting channels on the LNP (lighting node pro). It's a small box with two channels... Or they can be plugged into the lighting channels on the Commander Pro. The fan HUB with your six fans plugs into the other LNP channel or the other C-Pro lighting channel.

There is a special adapter you can get from a guy on Ebay that allows you take standard RGB/ARGB cables like that from your case and convert it to and iCUE connection. It's here:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Corsair-RGB-to-Aura-Mystic-Light-A-RGB-Adapter/37252


----------



## SgtMunky

Astral85 said:


> I don't think so. Each Corsair RGB fan has to have it's RGB wire plugged into the lighting HUB to be able to correctly control the fans lighting. You can run a maximum of two LL fan power cables on a PWM splitter cable. For example I have six Corsair RGB fans but only five available PWM plugs on my Commander Pro as I'm using one for my water cooling pump. So I have two fan PWM cables connected to a PWM splitter cable on the Commander Pro... I know it's a lot of cables. What helps for me is if I draw a diagram so I know what plug on the HUB and Commander Pro each fan is plugged into.
> 
> Do you have Corsair LED strips? They plug into one of the lighting channels on the LNP (lighting node pro). It's a small box with two channels... Or they can be plugged into the lighting channels on the Commander Pro. The fan HUB with your six fans plugs into the other LNP channel or the other C-Pro lighting channel.
> 
> There is a special adapter you can get from a guy on Ebay that allows you take standard RGB/ARGB cables like that from your case and convert it to and iCUE connection. It's here:
> 
> https://www.ebay.com/itm/Corsair-RGB-to-Aura-Mystic-Light-A-RGB-Adapter/37252



Geeeeeez that’s a lot of useful info, thanks a lot! I bought a 2nd commander pro to deal with the 7 fans, sounds like I should have just used the splitter cable for 2xfans a time but had no idea that would work. However, I do have 2 Corsair lighting strips that, as you said, can go into the lighting channels  I hate iCue though, it’s ok for the lighting but I miss having a drive bay fan controller


----------



## Astral85

SgtMunky said:


> Geeeeeez that’s a lot of useful info, thanks a lot! I bought a 2nd commander pro to deal with the 7 fans, sounds like I should have just used the splitter cable for 2xfans a time but had no idea that would work. However, I do have 2 Corsair lighting strips that, as you said, can go into the lighting channels  I hate iCue though, it’s ok for the lighting but I miss having a drive bay fan controller


The Commander Pro is very powerful, you can create custom fan curves and control them of many available sensors... iCUE's RGB is also very powerful, very complex lighting and effect layering can be done with very little system resources... What are you doing with 2x Commander Pro's??


----------



## Bride

doyll said:


> Well done Bride! :thumb:


tks man, satisfied of the result, looking at what I invested


----------



## saltedham

for the p600s users here, is there at least a tiny gap if i were to have the psu fan face up so it can get air from the bottom front fan? i really want a rog thor power supply and the psu fan has to be facing up for the side display to show.


----------



## Astral85

saltedham said:


> for the p600s users here, is there at least a tiny gap if i were to have the psu fan face up so it can get air from the bottom front fan? i really want a rog thor power supply and the psu fan has to be facing up for the side display to show.


I don't think there is. Had a bit of feel over mine and it feels like it touches the roof.  I'm surprised the ROG Thor isn't designed to have the display work when mounted either way...

On the upside you may not even the need the fan. These days PSU's cool very well passively but...


----------



## knightriot

for luxe II users, I confirm trx40 aorus xtreme does not fit


----------



## ciarlatano

saltedham said:


> for the p600s users here, is there at least a tiny gap if i were to have the psu fan face up so it can get air from the bottom front fan? i really want a rog thor power supply and the psu fan has to be facing up for the side display to show.


That is not correct. The fan would need to be facing down for the argeebee to show. If the fan were on top, the argeebee would be facing the back of the MB tray.


----------



## flyinion

Anyone know the LED count for the LED strips in the Enthoo 719? Do they show up as individually addressable when the Phanteks hub is connected to a motherboard? I'm fairly new to the RGB/ARGB thing since my first build in 5 years last fall. I noticed the Asus Aura software packages you can tell it how many LED's are on the headers presumably for stuff like the more advanced effects. The auto mode for them (like Starry Night) do work, but I wonder if they'd work better if I could tell the software how many LED's are actually connected.


----------



## Dunan

Just picked up a P600S, wondering what the best fans are to put in for the best airflow? I saw Dmitri from hardware canucks has the same case but with noctua NF-A12x25's in the front and rear. Would these be the best way to go, or would a pair of NF-A14's work just fine? I have a set of 2 for both.


----------



## doyll

Dunan said:


> Just picked up a P600S, wondering what the best fans are to put in for the best airflow? I saw Dmitri from hardware canucks has the same case but with noctua NF-A12x25's in the front and rear. Would these be the best way to go, or would a pair of NF-A14's work just fine? I have a set of 2 for both.


The 3 included fans are quite good. I would use all 3 as front intakes and block all openings in front mounting panel not covered by fans so the air they push into case has to flow through case and out, not leak through holes in front of fans and go in circles. I would remove all PCIe back slot covers to increase rear vent area around GPU for better front to back airflow so coolers' heated exhaust is pushed on back and out of case.


----------



## ciarlatano

Dunan said:


> Just picked up a P600S, wondering what the best fans are to put in for the best airflow? I saw Dmitri from hardware canucks has the same case but with noctua NF-A12x25's in the front and rear. Would these be the best way to go, or would a pair of NF-A14's work just fine? I have a set of 2 for both.





doyll said:


> The 3 included fans are quite good. I would use all 3 as front intakes and block all openings in front mounting panel not covered by fans so the air they push into case has to flow through case and out, not leak through holes in front of fans and go in circles. I would remove all PCIe back slot covers to increase rear vent area around GPU for better front to back airflow so coolers' heated exhaust is pushed on back and out of case.


I agree with @doyll. You would see no appreciable gains at like noise levels changing the fans. And Noctua is not going to send you fans and ask you use them and show them as a favor like they did with Dmitri.


----------



## Dunan

doyll said:


> The 3 included fans are quite good. I would use all 3 as front intakes and block all openings in front mounting panel not covered by fans so the air they push into case has to flow through case and out, not leak through holes in front of fans and go in circles. I would remove all PCIe back slot covers to increase rear vent area around GPU for better front to back airflow so coolers' heated exhaust is pushed on back and out of case.





ciarlatano said:


> I agree with @doyll. You would see no appreciable gains at like noise levels changing the fans. And Noctua is not going to send you fans and ask you use them and show them as a favor like they did with Dmitri.



So use the 140's in the front and those should block any air gaps in the front? I'll try that and also try a few different fan configs and run some stress tests. This build will be going from a define R7 to the P600S, airflow is primary concern, and even though I like the silence based fractal cases, i'm about at my limit in trying to get more airflow into that case to keep the GPU from hitting 75c+ gaming without going through some modding like cutting out the PSU shroud.


----------



## doyll

Dunan said:


> So use the 140's in the front and those should block any air gaps in the front? I'll try that and also try a few different fan configs and run some stress tests. This build will be going from a define R7 to the P600S, airflow is primary concern, and even though I like the silence based fractal cases, i'm about at my limit in trying to get more airflow into that case to keep the GPU from hitting 75c+ gaming without going through some modding like cutting out the PSU shroud.


Fans won't block all openings, so you need to block any openings not covered by fans to force airflow through case so it won't leak around in front of fans and go in circles.


----------



## Delta9k

I just took delivery of a new P600s myself - I have Corsair Obsidian 500D that I can't for the life of me eliminate a circulation dead spot where heat just pools around the middle of the chassis. So, I am going to swap chassis. 
Thing is, I haven't pulled the trigger on the chassis swap yet. I am admittedly pretty partial to Fractal cases, having 2 R6's an S2 and Meshify S2 in service now. I also have another Meshify S2 that I haven't used yet (saving it to do a custom loop build). I know the obvious choice is to use the P600S since I have not built in one and it would be good to compare vs. just caving and using the on hand Meshify S2. 

For some context:
The Meshify S2 I have in service now, and would be comparing the P600S against is populated with 3900x using a 360 AIO (roof exhaust) 2 140mm fans in the front intake and and other 140mm rear exhaust. GPU is a 5700XT Gaming X (dual fan cooler). I'm reasonably happy with it, I mean CPU is cool no worries - GPU meh, not too bad but not as good as I was hoping for. The sytem in the 500D that will move to the P600S is practically an identical setup, 3900X, 360 AIO, GPU is 5700XT - gigabyte with a triple fan cooler. For it to be a fair comparison I'd mount the AIO in the roof and I would use two 140mm fans upfront intake and one rear 140mm exhaust. 

So do I take the plunge, move a system into the P600s and do a compare, or cave and use the standby Meshify S2? 

You don't really need to answer if you don't care. I am just talking out my first world problems out loud to help myself work it out. I think in actuality, I will find it a toss up between the two chassis and either of them would be better than the 500D - it looks pretty, is kinda nifty with the slide out fan/radiator mounts but damn, it is leaky (air wise) and I have to run the 360 up front in push pull just to get some extra breeze in that thing and its still not enough. It's a GPU roaster and dimm heater - that air just balls up in the center and doesn't make it to roof or rear to exhaust.. well, unless you use 2-3K RPM fans in there and run them 100%, which is not pleasant btw. Though, I will admit when I had a 8700K in the 500D with a 1080ti I had no issues with a 360 in front, just push w/2 140s roof and rear a 120 exhaust - I think its probably the 5700XT, being a heater itself that's tipping this chassis over the edge. 

Thanks for listening - I'll post some findings after I get the swap done.


----------



## Dunan

doyll said:


> Fans won't block all openings, so you need to block any openings not covered by fans to force airflow through case so it won't leak around in front of fans and go in circles.


I really don't do any kind of case modding, how would I go about blocking the excess air holes around the fans?


----------



## chibi

Dunan said:


> I really don't do any kind of case modding, how would I go about blocking the excess air holes around the fans?



You can try hardware stores that may sell insulation foam. It usually has a sticky tape side and the foam can be anywhere from a few mm to cm in thickness. Tape up the edges where air can recirculate and you should be good to go. :thumb:


----------



## doyll

Dunan said:


> I really don't do any kind of case modding, how would I go about blocking the excess air holes around the fans?


Tape is something most of us have in our homes, an most any tape can be used over small unused case holes. For bigger holes cut a piece of paper to cover hole and tape that to case.


----------



## Gilles3000

I personally like masking tape, as it doesn't leave much if any residue even after being in place for a while and its very easy to work with.

Unfortunately the black stuff seems rather hard to find, it does exist, but you might not find it at your local hardware store.


----------



## thekingbeyond

I used black Vinyl Electrical Tape (not the self amalgamating type) on the frame holes that weren't covered by the inner dust filter of the p600. Worked quite well as the 3 front Noctua NF-A14s were pulling unfiltered air through the holes. Why go to the trouble of sealing doors with rubber gaskets and leaving the holes on the front panel? Great case though.


----------



## Dunan

chibi said:


> Dunan said:
> 
> 
> 
> I really don't do any kind of case modding, how would I go about blocking the excess air holes around the fans?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can try hardware stores that may sell insulation foam. It usually has a sticky tape side and the foam can be anywhere from a few mm to cm in thickness. Tape up the edges where air can recirculate and you should be good to go. /forum/images/smilies/thumb.gif
Click to expand...

Ah ok, I have that around. I was thinking electrical tape at first but this is better


----------



## Dunan

Got the p600s yesterday afternoon and had everything switched out from the define 7 I had everything else in. I also replaced to 2 front stock fans with noctua 12x25's. Another one is on the way for a front 3 setup. I haven't had a chance to do any real temp testing yet but airflow seems to be very good. So far the case is fairly quiet but has a ways to go in that dept compared to the define 7 but the airflow difference is night and day and that's what I was looking for so no complaints.


----------



## Heuchler

Phanteks Enthoo Pro 2





I like my Eclipse P300A but I love my Enthoo Pro.


----------



## Delta9k

Delta9k said:


> I just took delivery of a P600S ...
> ~blah, blah, blah~
> 
> Thanks for listening - I'll post some findings after I get the swap done.


I did not want you to think I was a Fractal fanatic just trolling the Phanteks group - I did the system swap out of that Corsair 500D. I am not as thrilled with the P600S as I hoped. I ended up putting 3x140's in the front (Phanteks F140MPs) I left the stock fan in the rear. The P600S is still running warmer than an identical build, only in a Meshify S2 instead, and with just 2 front 140's intake... and it's running cooler at all check points by 7-10C than the same setup in the 600s that has an additional intake. The build quality over all is not as nice. The steel side panel on the P600S is tweaked out of the box it does not shut flush, either the top front corner sticks out or the bottom front corner does. It just looks sloppy when looking at it head on. The strap that is used to assist to open the side panel was torn and is just a long dangling ribbon. Nit-picking, I know. The build experience was OK, not great and not what I've become used too - this was the most difficult chassis I've had to cable manage in a while. Perhaps I've just been in Fractal la la land too long and I'm being over critical, and/or let my self get over-hyped on the P600. I'll tinker around with this setup for a while see what I can learn from it. Hopefully it'll grow on me. Good thing is, that it's moving air better than the Corsair 500D - so that's a plus!


----------



## doyll

Delta9k said:


> I did not want you to think I was a Fractal fanatic just trolling the Phanteks group - I did the system swap out of that Corsair 500D. I am not as thrilled with the P600S as I hoped. I ended up putting 3x140's in the front (Phanteks F140MPs) I left the stock fan in the rear. The P600S is still running warmer than an identical build, only in a Meshify S2 instead, and with just 2 front 140's intake... and it's running cooler at all check points by 7-10C than the same setup in the 600s that has an additional intake. The build quality over all is not as nice. The steel side panel on the P600S is tweaked out of the box it does not shut flush, either the top front corner sticks out or the bottom front corner does. It just looks sloppy when looking at it head on. The strap that is used to assist to open the side panel was torn and is just a long dangling ribbon. Nit-picking, I know. The build experience was OK, not great and not what I've become used too - this was the most difficult chassis I've had to cable manage in a while. Perhaps I've just been in Fractal la la land too long and I'm being over critical, and/or let my self get over-hyped on the P600. I'll tinker around with this setup for a while see what I can learn from it. Hopefully it'll grow on me. Good thing is, that it's moving air better than the Corsair 500D - so that's a plus!


Try removing all PCie back slot covers to increase rear vent area and give better front to back airflow. This almost always gives lower temps.


----------



## Delta9k

doyll said:


> Try removing all PCie back slot covers to increase rear vent area and give better front to back airflow. This almost always gives lower temps.


I had seen some of your other posts mentioning that, as well as, adding an 80mm fan in the rear under the GPU - I liked how you incorporated the PCI expansion covers as the mounting mechanism.
On the P600S - I started out by blocking all the orifices in the front using some black masking tape, also covering that 1.5 or so inch section across the entire length of the radiator bracket, where the rad doesn't cover. I was noticing a lot of air being pushed out - that exercise does not appear to have had any measurable effect, +/-. I'll remove the PCI expansion covers and give that a go, thanks!


----------



## doyll

Delta9k said:


> I had seen some of your other posts mentioning that, as well as, adding an 80mm fan in the rear under the GPU - I liked how you incorporated the PCI expansion covers as the mounting mechanism.
> On the P600S - I started out by blocking all the orifices in the front using some black masking tape, also covering that 1.5 or so inch section across the entire length of the radiator bracket, where the rad doesn't cover. I was noticing a lot of air being pushed out - that exercise does not appear to have had any measurable effect, +/-. I'll remove the PCI expansion covers and give that a go, thanks!


 No problem. 

Thanks for the thanks! :thumb:

Most users don't bother. 

Please let me know what removeing PCIe slot covers does. I always like hearing results of my reccomendations because some cases respond a little differently than others. So what makes big difference in one might not help or even off chance might hurt in another. Your input helps me make better recommendations to others.


----------



## superleeds27

Has anyone here upgraded to the P600s from a Define R4.

I'm looking for a balance between cool and quiet. I'm stuck between going for the P600s or the R7.

I like the look of the P600s but I'm not sure if it'll be as quiet as the R4 is at the moment?


----------



## ciarlatano

superleeds27 said:


> Has anyone here upgraded to the P600s from a Define R4.
> 
> I'm looking for a balance between cool and quiet. I'm stuck between going for the P600s or the R7.
> 
> I like the look of the P600s but I'm not sure if it'll be as quiet as the R4 is at the moment?


Given that the the R4 is quiet out of the box is because the fans don't move any air......and the fans in the R7 aren't much better.....

It's a tough call. I've had the R4 and tested the P600S (never had an R7 to play with). The P600S was actually quieter at similar temps because the fans didn't have to ramp up. They are both great cases, there really is no wrong choice, just a matter of preference.


----------



## doyll

What ciarlatano said. 

Phanteks supplies cases with good stock fans. Fractal Design case come with garbage fans that can't do the job.


----------



## superleeds27

ciarlatano said:


> superleeds27 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Has anyone here upgraded to the P600s from a Define R4.
> 
> I'm looking for a balance between cool and quiet. I'm stuck between going for the P600s or the R7.
> 
> I like the look of the P600s but I'm not sure if it'll be as quiet as the R4 is at the moment?
> 
> 
> 
> Given that the the R4 is quiet out of the box is because the fans don't move any air......and the fans in the R7 aren't much better.....
> 
> It's a tough call. I've had the R4 and tested the P600S (never had an R7 to play with). The P600S was actually quieter at similar temps because the fans didn't have to ramp up. They are both great cases, there really is no wrong choice, just a matter of preference.
Click to expand...




doyll said:


> What ciarlatano said.
> 
> Phanteks supplies cases with good stock fans. Fractal Design case come with garbage fans that can't do the job.


I upgraded the three fans in the R4 to the Arctic P14 PWMs

2 intake 1 exhaust


----------



## superleeds27

ciarlatano said:


> superleeds27 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Has anyone here upgraded to the P600s from a Define R4.
> 
> I'm looking for a balance between cool and quiet. I'm stuck between going for the P600s or the R7.
> 
> I like the look of the P600s but I'm not sure if it'll be as quiet as the R4 is at the moment?
> 
> 
> 
> Given that the the R4 is quiet out of the box is because the fans don't move any air......and the fans in the R7 aren't much better.....
> 
> It's a tough call. I've had the R4 and tested the P600S (never had an R7 to play with). The P600S was actually quieter at similar temps because the fans didn't have to ramp up. They are both great cases, there really is no wrong choice, just a matter of preference.
Click to expand...

Opted for the 7 in the end with the view of, I know what I'm getting with Fractal.

Will look at getting it up and running this weekend.


----------



## Ironsmack

Anyone that has an Elite 719, can you measure the opening for the vertical GPU mount? 

Thanks


----------



## chibi

P500A reviews have hit youtube. Now just need to find a vendor that has them for sale! My next case =]


----------



## Dunan

I'm a little late but I went from an R7 to a P600s just a few weeks ago. Airflow is better for sure but the R7 is def quieter, better built and feels much more solid. Its also quite a bit heavier empty. The p600s a nice mix between airflow and silence. If you have any other questions, let me know.


----------



## Delta9k

doyll said:


> No problem.
> 
> Please let me know what removeing PCIe slot covers does. I always like hearing results of my reccomendations because some cases respond a little differently than others. So what makes big difference in one might not help or even off chance might hurt in another. Your input helps me make better recommendations to others.



Hello, it's taken me a while to get back to you. Even when working from home during quarantine, the office finds a way to keep you busy... Plus, I spent a couple days testing out a couple ram kits and tweaking on other stuffs - but I put the system to a standard configuration and got some good baselines for the temp comparisons so I could report back with a reasonable amount of confidence. I wrote it all up, GN might even think it worthy, but its like 3 pages so..., you'll have to trust that I was thorough as I could be, considering I am not a certified lab. The summary is, that after removing all the PCIe slot covers I did not see a significant difference, @ 1-3C drop across the range of check points. This is Okay though, as it inspired me to try other things which led me to swapping in and out different GPUs, and determining it is my heat pump RX5700XTs that are the villains, not the chassis. I dealt with them (stopped being stubborn and disabled the fan stop feature). 

TLDR; I'm keeping it, the system in there will stay. I was even able to turn down the rpms on my intakes (800) and exhaust (725) even with PCIe slots in place, and I am still pleased with temps at the checkpoints that concern me.

Edit: may be of value for context - During testing the 3x140mm intakes and 1x140mm exhaust were 1000rpm - the AIO in the roof, 3x120s (exhaust) @1200rpm


----------



## doyll

Delta9k said:


> Hello, it's taken me a while to get back to you. Even when working from home during quarantine, the office finds a way to keep you busy... Plus, I spent a couple days testing out a couple ram kits and tweaking on other stuffs - but I put the system to a standard configuration and got some good baselines for the temp comparisons so I could report back with a reasonable amount of confidence. I wrote it all up, GN might even think it worthy, but its like 3 pages so..., you'll have to trust that I was thorough as I could be, considering I am not a certified lab. The summary is, that after removing all the PCIe slot covers I did not see a significant difference, @ 1-3C drop across the range of check points. This is Okay though, as it inspired me to try other things which led me to swapping in and out different GPUs, and determining it is my heat pump RX5700XTs that are the villains, not the chassis. I dealt with them (stopped being stubborn and disabled the fan stop feature).
> 
> TLDR; I'm keeping it, the system in there will stay. I was even able to turn down the rpms on my intakes (800) and exhaust (725) even with PCIe slots in place, and I am still pleased with temps at the checkpoints that concern me.
> 
> Edit: may be of value for context - During testing the 3x140mm intakes and 1x140mm exhaust were 1000rpm - the AIO in the roof, 3x120s (exhaust) @1200rpm


Thanks for detailed results. :thumb:
I've often found fans running slower (low to mid-range rpm) cool as well, sometimes better than at higher speed. 
With CLC rad in top of case front to back airflow is severly compremise by rad fans pulling air up and out, so not surprise at difference with/without PCIe slots open. 

With 3x 120 top ehausst and 1x 140 rear exhaust vs 3x 140 front intakes (I assume with filters) you have more exhaust potential than intake. Makes it amost impossible to get good front to back airflow so GPU heated exhaust moves back and out instead of up into radiator. 

Long story short is it's working well as you have it after doing some fine tuning. That's all that matters. :thumb:


----------



## ltcdata

Hi everyone!


I have a P600s. The 3 fans that come from factory located in the front as intake, connected to the hub and connected to take the pwm signal from the motherboard.


The minimum speed at which they arrive after bios auto-detect is 350rpm, i suppose because the sweet spot for the hub is 5-7 fans and sends them a lot of voltage. The motherboard also does not give me the option to turn off the fans under a certain temperature and I imagine that it is for the same reason that when auto-tuning, the lowest speed is due to the voltage sent by the hub is high due to its low load. 

This option appears with the fan that I have in the exhaust directly connected (when auto-tuning the mb discovers it's lowest speed = 0), and I am interested in being able to do it with the front fans.

My motherboard (Asus X570 tuf gaming) has 4 pwm/dc headers to connect fans and supports 1A maximum each.

Can I daisy chain the fans with 3-pin adapters and put them without the hub directly on the motherboard? 1A is enough for these 3 fans together to not damage the motherboard? They are 0.2A per fan = 0.6A i think.

Thank you!


----------



## flyinion

ltcdata said:


> Hi everyone!
> 
> 
> I have a P600s. The 3 fans that come from factory located in the front as intake, connected to the hub and connected to take the pwm signal from the motherboard.
> 
> 
> The minimum speed at which they arrive after bios auto-detect is 350rpm, i suppose because the sweet spot for the hub is 5-7 fans and sends them a lot of voltage. The motherboard also does not give me the option to turn off the fans under a certain temperature and I imagine that it is for the same reason that when auto-tuning, the lowest speed is due to the voltage sent by the hub is high due to its low load.
> 
> This option appears with the fan that I have in the exhaust directly connected (when auto-tuning the mb discovers it's lowest speed = 0), and I am interested in being able to do it with the front fans.
> 
> My motherboard (Asus X570 tuf gaming) has 4 pwm/dc headers to connect fans and supports 1A maximum each.
> 
> Can I daisy chain the fans with 3-pin adapters and put them without the hub directly on the motherboard? 1A is enough for these 3 fans together to not damage the motherboard? They are 0.2A per fan = 0.6A i think.
> 
> Thank you!


You should be fine. I have 3x120's daisy chained with a 3 way splitter where one of them has the PWM line on it and have it plugged into my CPU fan header on my Asus X570 Hero which is 1A (it's the 3 fans for my radiator).


----------



## ltcdata

Thanks!


----------



## Asunder

Dunan said:


> I'm a little late but I went from an R7 to a P600s just a few weeks ago. Airflow is better for sure but the R7 is def quieter, better built and feels much more solid. Its also quite a bit heavier empty. The p600s a nice mix between airflow and silence. If you have any other questions, let me know.


I was looking at the newer phanteks enthoo pro 2 and, after some pondering, I'm considering a define 7 xl despite the front panel (will probably remove it), I would actually really appreciate some thoughts on either of them.
Was going to get a phanteks case because people praised them, but I've seen a couple of reviews where the build quality seems to be really flimsy (I saw the flex in this vid* first and it made me a bit concerned). I don't know about fractal but judging by the weight, it seems like it's a solid option and I would assume it doesn't flex...however, my main gripe with it is that it actually has no screws to secure the side panels. Kinda' wished the R6 had an XL because I would have preferred that specifically because of that.


Vid mentioned: 
https://youtu.be/9iCVjb6zm1w?t=906


----------



## d0mmie

Asunder said:


> I was looking at the newer phanteks enthoo pro 2 and, after some pondering, I'm considering a define 7 xl despite the front panel (will probably remove it), I would actually really appreciate some thoughts on either of them.
> Was going to get a phanteks case because people praised them, but I've seen a couple of reviews where the build quality seems to be really flimsy (I saw the flex in this vid* first and it made me a bit concerned). I don't know about fractal but judging by the weight, it seems like it's a solid option and I would assume it doesn't flex...however, my main gripe with it is that it actually has no screws to secure the side panels. Kinda' wished the R6 had an XL because I would have preferred that specifically because of that.
> 
> 
> Vid mentioned:
> https://youtu.be/9iCVjb6zm1w?t=906


Fractal Design Define cases use quite thick steel and are typically better quality than Phanteks cases, however they're also these days a bit more expensive. Buuuut.... Phanteks is certainly not bad, it just comes down to what you really need. Are you looking for silence optimized case, well then Define series is for you, or are you looking for best airflow well then Phanteks is probably more your thing. But I want to point out that Phanteks cases are really not that noisy and the flimsy side panel is usually not a problem once mounted properly, however I would recommend that one with the glass side panel since it can absorb a lot of noise compared to these thin panels (I even have issues with my Define R6 side panel causing vibration sometimes from the HDD's).

Personally I'm buying that Enthoo Pro 2, as I love the design of that case.


----------



## wermad

Enthoo Pro 2 swap started. Waiting on more fans. So far I'm very impressed


----------



## Nizzen

wermad said:


> Enthoo Pro 2 swap started. Waiting on more fans. So far I'm very impressed 👍


Is there bigger space between MB and the top of the case VS Luxe 2? I have problems with space when trying to use a 360 radiator in the top. It's "interfering" with my Apex x299 MB.

So Luxe 2 is epic fail for me. I need another case 🙂 So maybe Pro 2 is better?


----------



## wermad

Nizzen said:


> Is there bigger space between MB and the top of the case VS Luxe 2? I have problems with space when trying to use a 360 radiator in the top. It's "interfering" with my Apex x299 MB.
> 
> So Luxe 2 is epic fail for me. I need another case 🙂 So maybe Pro 2 is better?


The fans are pushed to the side a bit so you may clear stuff. It's not as spacious on top as my old View 71, but it's pretty decent.


----------



## Nizzen

wermad said:


> The fans are pushed to the side a bit so you may clear stuff. It's not as spacious on top as my old View 71, but it's pretty decent.


Tnx for the pictures!

Looks like it's the same as my Luxe 2. Dimm m.2 on the Apex is interfering with the fans/radiator.

+1


----------



## wermad

One disappointment is the depth for cable management. But so far, it's pretty good


----------



## wermad

Finished a couple of days ago. Had to make a small mod to fit the 15th fan. For cable management, I took Jay's suggestion from his recent cable management video and it worked out fantastic. I got everything fitted in the side.


----------



## Avacado

wermad said:


> One disappointment is the depth for cable management. But so far, it's pretty good


Love it brosef, I feel Elmo though.


----------



## OCUser2501

Hello,


[Update]: Yes it fit. We finished assembling my friend's PC last weekend.









Larger image : https://imgur.com/8RjTeYa


--
[Original message]:


I'm new to PC building and I need help with something. Hope you can help me.
I'm looking for a PC case where I can mount an Arctic Liquid Freezer II 280 (317 x 140 x 65 mm) on top.
The P500A and Enthoo Pro 2 looks good so I asked Phanteks support about the clearance.
They told me the Enthoo Pro 2 didn't have enough clearance on top. But it should be fine with the P500A. And they send me this picture : https://imgur.com/tljx4J7
They also told me to check this forum, so here I am.

On the linked picture, the P500A has a 65 mm height clearance. But the height of the Liquid Freezer II 280 is 65 mm.
Does that mean that there will be a 0 mm gap between the AIO and the motherboard? If so, can it really work?

(I don't know if it's important (because of the height of the motherboard), I plan to buy a MSI Z490 Gaming Plus)

Thank you.


----------



## chibi

Anyone find a Black RGB P500A listed anywhere in Canada yet? So far, I've only found the non-rgb model listed once at newegg.ca and it sold out.


----------



## OCUser2501

chibi said:


> Anyone find a Black RGB P500A listed anywhere in Canada yet? So far, I've only found the non-rgb model listed once at newegg.ca and it sold out.



Hello,
I don't live in Canada so I wouldn't be much help, but according to a message on Reddit, maybe mid-September at Canada Computers : https://www.reddit.com/r/Phanteks/comments/hxgeej/buying_the_p500a_in_canada/


----------



## chibi

OCUser2501 said:


> Hello,
> I don't live in Canada so I wouldn't be much help, but according to a message on Reddit, maybe mid-September at Canada Computers : https://www.reddit.com/r/Phanteks/comments/hxgeej/buying_the_p500a_in_canada/



Thank you! I'll be on the lookout for it in the coming weeks. :thumb:


----------



## Jackscleaner

Hey guys, i asked Phanteks support about top rad clearances of the P500A, and i was told to come here. (Should've joined sooner i guess, this site is great)

I wanted to mount a Arctic LFII 360mm aio in the top slot of my Silverstone PM01, but it didn't fit- the fans interfere height wise with motherboard and ram. I had expected that and i went looking for a new case beforehand and stumbled upon the P500A in a Gamers Nexus review. They measured 70mm from the top of the case to the edge of the motherboard, whereas the clearances given by Phanteks are 65mm, without an explanation were exactly they measured. Reading previous posts here gives me some reassurance that height won't be a problem, but then i read this:

__
https://www.reddit.com/r/Phanteks/comments/hqiqva
They have trouble mounting it because of its length, even if the clearances should be okay (rad is 398mm, clearance is 405mm) they had trouble because of the location of screw holes. I've been researching for some time and the clearances just seem too tight to just wing it and buy the case.

tl;dr: Arctic 360mm aio wont fit top of current case, want p500a but not sure about length clearances in top slot, looking for reference from somebody with that case or cooler

Thanks in advance for any further info, have a nice day everyone.

EDIT: I bought the P500A-DRGB, and as the reddit thread said: lengthwise you'll have to accomodate the Arctic LF2 360mm in the top slot by either using the vent holes instead of the screw mounts or use just 4 screws. I opted to use 4 screws to secure it, and it works really well this way.
Height wise it's no problem.
The case is really nice, can recommend if you want to have a well cooled case that supports most AIOs.


----------



## radier

I have mounted LF II 360 inside Bequiet Silent Base 801 with plenty of space left and all screws secured in place. 

But for my home build I have chosen P500A and LF II 280.


----------



## Versalius

Hello all!

Random question: I am looking to put together a completely new build in Dec/Jan after Zen3, Big Navi, and Ampere get released, reviewed, and hopefully supply issues get sorted out. For the case I've been considering the Luxe 2 (or 719) since it leaves me ample room to grow and upgrade over the years (I tend to keep the same build for 5-6 years). However, since I am also thinking about getting an EVGA hybrid 3080 with its 240 mm AIO, that means the rad for any CPU AIO would need to be either side or front mounted, leaving the top mount for the GPU AIO. Here is where the size of this case becomes a potential issue: Are the tubes of the EK AIO 360 (or similar 360mm AIO) long enough to allow for side mounting with the tubes down? Spec sheets say the tubes are 400 mm, but this case is so massive I'm not sure that's long enough for tubes down. 

Any insight would be appreciated!


----------



## shilka

Versalius said:


> Hello all!
> 
> Random question: I am looking to put together a completely new build in Dec/Jan after Zen3, Big Navi, and Ampere get released, reviewed, and hopefully supply issues get sorted out. For the case I've been considering the Luxe 2 (or 719) since it leaves me ample room to grow and upgrade over the years (I tend to keep the same build for 5-6 years). However, since I am also thinking about getting an EVGA hybrid 3080 with its 240 mm AIO, that means the rad for any CPU AIO would need to be either side or front mounted, leaving the top mount for the GPU AIO. Here is where the size of this case becomes a potential issue: Are the tubes of the EK AIO 360 (or similar 360mm AIO) long enough to allow for side mounting with the tubes down? Spec sheets say the tubes are 400 mm, but this case is so massive I'm not sure that's long enough for tubes down.
> 
> Any insight would be appreciated!


If you want a 719 you should consider if you can live with all the flaws some of those being zero room above the motherboard which means your fans and rads up is going to block the EPS on the motherboard and all the other ports and headers up there or in other words you need to install all your liquid cooling AFTER you install the motherboard otherwise you wont have room and will need to take out the rads and fans

If you have a large PSU you have very little to no room for the cables and overall cable management is piss poor
Despite the fact that the 719 is so huge most of it is just empty space that cant be use for anything useful so its not very well thought out in my opinion

If you have one or more HDD´s the mounts for those are piss poor both those in the bottom and in the front and vibration noise is a huge problem when all my 5 HDD´s are working the whole room shakes because the 719 and its mounts are so poor and cant contain the vibrations at all and yes i have used every single screw i can and have tighten them as much as i can the case is just really bad

The bottom mounts are also not very secure the first time i lifted the case the 4 HDD´s slid right out and dropped to the floor but i was able to catch them before i lost
52 TB worth of drives

If you want to have drives in the bottom like me you will need to order SATA cables longer than the normal 30-40 cm cables as those cant reach down there not unless run them from the motherboard straight down rather than behind the motherboard tray

I have a 719 and i am fed up with it and ordered a Fractal Design 7 XL instead but my use case is not the same as yours and my case might just be terrible
In any case i cant recommend the 719 i and i think its starting to overtake the previous first place holder as the worst case i have ever bought








On another note the side panels on mine where bent to hell and the metal side was so bad that i think the delivery van ran it over or something but i least i got a free replacement from Phanteks

The glass side panel is still bent and cant be opened or closed unless you force up the front of the glass
If anyone want to pay for shipping from Denmark i am willing to give it away for free (minus the fans) just take this cursed abomination off my hands


----------



## ciarlatano

Versalius said:


> Hello all!
> 
> Random question: I am looking to put together a completely new build in Dec/Jan after Zen3, Big Navi, and Ampere get released, reviewed, and hopefully supply issues get sorted out. For the case I've been considering the Luxe 2 (or 719) since it leaves me ample room to grow and upgrade over the years (I tend to keep the same build for 5-6 years). However, since I am also thinking about getting an EVGA hybrid 3080 with its 240 mm AIO, that means the rad for any CPU AIO would need to be either side or front mounted, leaving the top mount for the GPU AIO. Here is where the size of this case becomes a potential issue: Are the tubes of the EK AIO 360 (or similar 360mm AIO) long enough to allow for side mounting with the tubes down? Spec sheets say the tubes are 400 mm, but this case is so massive I'm not sure that's long enough for tubes down.
> 
> Any insight would be appreciated!


I would imagine that CLCs were the furthest thing from the designers' minds when the 719 was developed. You have a ton of room and options in this case. Why not ditch the dual one-size-fits-none CLCs and put in a simple loop? The cost difference won't be all that much.


----------



## Versalius

shilka said:


> If you want a 719 you should consider if you can live with all the flaws some of those being zero room above the motherboard which means your fans and rads up is going to block the EPS on the motherboard and all the other ports and headers up there or in other words you need to install all your liquid cooling AFTER you install the motherboard otherwise you wont have room and will need to take out the rads and fans
> 
> If you have a large PSU you have very little to no room for the cables and overall cable management is piss poor
> Despite the fact that the 719 is so huge most of it is just empty space that cant be use for anything useful so its not very well thought out in my opinion
> 
> If you have one or more HDD´s the mounts for those are piss poor both those in the bottom and in the front and vibration noise is a huge problem when all my 5 HDD´s are working the whole room shakes because the 719 and its mounts are so poor and cant contain the vibrations at all and yes i have used every single screw i can and have tighten them as much as i can the case is just really bad
> 
> The bottom mounts are also not very secure the first time i lifted the case the 4 HDD´s slid right out and dropped to the floor but i was able to catch them before i lost
> 52 TB worth of drives
> 
> If you want to have drives in the bottom like me you will need to order SATA cables longer than the normal 30-40 cm cables as those cant reach down there not unless run them from the motherboard straight down rather than behind the motherboard tray
> 
> I have a 719 and i am fed up with it and ordered a Fractal Design 7 XL instead but my use case is not the same as yours and my case might just be terrible
> In any case i cant recommend the 719 i and i think its starting to overtake the previous first place holder as the worst case i have ever bought
> View attachment 2462237
> 
> 
> On another note the side panels on mine where bent to hell and the metal side was so bad that i think the delivery van ran it over or something but i least i got a free replacement from Phanteks
> 
> The glass side panel is still bent and cant be opened or closed unless you force up the front of the glass
> If anyone want to pay for shipping from Denmark i am willing to give it away for free (minus the fans) just take this cursed abomination off my hands


Thank you VERY much for this! Always good to get insight from an owner, especially a dissatisfied one who can point out deficiencies. A few questions if you don't mind me picking your brain further on this:

Since my plan was to top mount the GPU's AIO (likely the last thing getting installed), clearance for cables shouldn't be as much of an issue as someone mounting their CPU AIO. Still good to know to plug in any cables connecting to the top region of the mobo before installing anything to the top bracket! (Of course, this assumes the setup of GPU AIO up top and CPU AIO on the side tubes down is viable with tube length.)
I found this thread that I see you also posted in from awhile back. The cable management in the pics posted by that OP looks fine, although I will have more fans to deal with (perhaps use the built-in fan hub). I will likely get a Corsair RMx PSU (rock solid in my experience from current and previous builds) so it should allow for some room for cables in that area, but the majority of cable management will likely take place in the cable channels running the height of the case between the side fan mounts and the mobo tray. Perhaps something akin to this pic from a build I saw over at PCPartPicker (I'll be getting sleeved cable extensions as well). To start with I'll have 3 SATA drives (1 SSD, 2 HDDs) plus the usual system cables and all those fans; do you think this is too much for any degree of cable management in this case?
Very interesting (and troubling) to hear about HDD vibrations being so bad. I don't remember reading anything about that in reviews on Newegg or Amazon, but those users may not have 5 HDDs (!) with 4 in a single stack in their system. No anti-vibration pads in the mounts? 
The SATA cables I have on hand are 18 in (~45 cm); ballpark how long do they need to be to reach that bottom mounting position in your build? At least 60 cm? 
It sounds like your first case went through hell on the way to Denmark. Was the packaging not sufficient or did it just go through several circles of hell before landing on your doorstep? It even sounds like your second case went through at least one circle...
Thanks again for any comments you have! I'll go back to looking at case alternatives, although it seems to be a rather short list for cases with the flexibility and room to grow as this one. 




ciarlatano said:


> I would imagine that CLCs were the furthest thing from the designers' minds when the 719 was developed. You have a ton of room and options in this case. Why not ditch the dual one-size-fits-none CLCs and put in a simple loop? The cost difference won't be all that much.


My choice of CLCs over a custom loop boils down to simplicity, maintenance, and ease of transport. For this build I'd rather stick with the simpler setup without the additional maintenance of draining and cleaning the loop every so often, especially as I'll be moving next summer. For the follow up build in another 5 years I'll definitely look at doing a full custom loop of both CPU and GPU, but for the more immediate build I'd rather stay with minimal maintenance.


----------



## shilka

Versalius said:


> Thank you VERY much for this! Always good to get insight from an owner, especially a dissatisfied one who can point out deficiencies. A few questions if you don't mind me picking your brain further on this:
> 
> Since my plan was to top mount the GPU's AIO (likely the last thing getting installed), clearance for cables shouldn't be as much of an issue as someone mounting their CPU AIO. Still good to know to plug in any cables connecting to the top region of the mobo before installing anything to the top bracket! (Of course, this assumes the setup of GPU AIO up top and CPU AIO on the side tubes down is viable with tube length.)
> I found this thread that I see you also posted in from awhile back. The cable management in the pics posted by that OP looks fine, although I will have more fans to deal with (perhaps use the built-in fan hub). I will likely get a Corsair RMx PSU (rock solid in my experience from current and previous builds) so it should allow for some room for cables in that area, but the majority of cable management will likely take place in the cable channels running the height of the case between the side fan mounts and the mobo tray. Perhaps something akin to this pic from a build I saw over at PCPartPicker (I'll be getting sleeved cable extensions as well). To start with I'll have 3 SATA drives (1 SSD, 2 HDDs) plus the usual system cables and all those fans; do you think this is too much for any degree of cable management in this case?
> Very interesting (and troubling) to hear about HDD vibrations being so bad. I don't remember reading anything about that in reviews on Newegg or Amazon, but those users may not have 5 HDDs (!) with 4 in a single stack in their system. No anti-vibration pads in the mounts?
> The SATA cables I have on hand are 18 in (~45 cm); ballpark how long do they need to be to reach that bottom mounting position in your build? At least 60 cm?
> It sounds like your first case went through hell on the way to Denmark. Was the packaging not sufficient or did it just go through several circles of hell before landing on your doorstep? It even sounds like your second case went through at least one circle...
> Thanks again for any comments you have! I'll go back to looking at case alternatives, although it seems to be a rather short list for cases with the flexibility and room to grow as this one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My choice of CLCs over a custom loop boils down to simplicity, maintenance, and ease of transport. For this build I'd rather stick with the simpler setup without the additional maintenance of draining and cleaning the loop every so often, especially as I'll be moving next summer. For the follow up build in another 5 years I'll definitely look at doing a full custom loop of both CPU and GPU, but for the more immediate build I'd rather stay with minimal maintenance.


Alright so to go over what you said i dont know anything about CLC or liquid cooling so the 719 was the wrong case for my use case since the 719 is meant for liquid cooling first and everything else second

Another point i forgot to say is when you remove all the panels and you are left with the frame it can flex quite a lot as the metal is not all that thick so the build quality at least on the frame is not all that great and there is a review on Youtube where he talks about that and shows how much it can flex

I think it might have been the Kitguru video but i might be wrong

As for cable management i have a Seasonic Prime Ultra which is not the smallest PSU and i have more cables and some of those are pretty long as well and because of all my drives so about that i just have more cables than everyone else so the limited space becomes a problem in my case

My PCI-E cables are hanging off the card like you see in the picture because there is no more room in the PSU chamber so its rather ugly to look at
Turth be told some of the blame is on me since there could be a little bit more space if i spent more time on it but if you saw my thread you will know and understand why i wont spend time on it

And i forgot to talk about the door which holds the cables in place which gets more in the way than it helps its a good idea but its not very well thought out on the 719

I have so many cables that i cant even screw both screws into the door i can only use one and even with fewer cables you will need 3 hands to screw the door in place two hands to use a lot force to hold the door in place and another hand to use the screw driver so to hell with the cable door and you cant even take it out!

As for the Corsair RMx the EPS cable is the same 65 cm as my Seasonic Prime TX750 so it can reach but just barely

And i forgot to say that i replaced one of the drives in the bottom but installed the replacement in the front so i have 3 in the bottom and two in the front and its the two in front that casue all of the vibrations so when both are working the whole case shakes and the shaking goes straight into the floor which then makes the shelves above shake as well which is rather annoying

I would be downright terrified of the vibrations if i had 8 drives in the front all working at once it would be like a small earthquake

As for the vibrations yes there are vibrations damping in the cages but its not all that great and its the front mounted HDD´s that are the worst not the bottom mounts those are okey other than they slide out if you move the case so you need to remove them like i said BEFORE you move the case unless you want smashed HDD on the floor

As for the SATA cables 45 cm should be able to reach but it there is not a whole lot of room left which means the SATA cables might grind up against the metal behind the motherboard tray
I have some 50 cm plastic SATA and those can still reach so i dont think 45 cm is too short

30 cm cables can reach fine to the two drives in the bottom front you dont need long cables going there but the upper mounts will need long cables so its a total PITA to plan for having so many drives in the 719 as some places like the bottom or the upper front ones needs cables that are longer than 40 cm

As for the case itself i was one of the early buyers so i might have gotten a really bad 719 like my first Luxe 1 which was so early that the cage badge was mounted upside down so take my complaints how you like

In the end i got so fed up and looking at options there was one only the Fractal Design Define 7 Xl and after looking at it for a while to find any stupid weak points i found none other than the stock fans are not very good and that the air flow is really bad with the front door closed and that the side panels are held on with plastic clips rather than screws but i was going to re-use Phanteks my fans anyway so the fans are not a problem

As for the door i will need to learn to open it when i work and play games otherwise the case will choke
As for the plastic clips i have been told those are a bit of a problem but we will see

Here are some videos of the Define 7 XL

















The video that pretty much sold me on the Define 7 XL was this video from Linus





If i had the money i would do the same thing but use the newer 18 TB Ironwolf Pro and only use 16 of them for a total of 260,8 TB

Thr Define 7 XL is meant more for workstations servers and those kind of systems where the 719 is meant more for liquid cooling dual PSU or dual system so like i said i bought the wrong case and had the Define 7 XL been on the market last year i would have bought that back then and not the 719

To make the wall of text short the 719 is not a bad case in the right use case and if you dont mind the flaws
The 719 is just the wrong case for me and i might have gotten a really bad one


----------



## Versalius

shilka said:


> _snipped for brevity_
> 
> Thr Define 7 XL is meant more for workstations servers and those kind of systems where the 719 is meant more for liquid cooling dual PSU or dual system so like i said i bought the wrong case and had the Define 7 XL been on the market last year i would have bought that back then and not the 719
> 
> To make the wall of text short the 719 is not a bad case in the right use case and if you dont mind the flaws
> The 719 is just the wrong case for me and i might have gotten a really bad one


Ah, so HDDs mounted on the bottom bracket are fine noise-wise, but any mounted along the side cause massive vibrations. Since I'm thinking of occupying the side with an AIO, this shouldn't be a problem for my use case, but quite unfortunate for anyone wanting to utilize those mounting positions. 

Thanks again for the comments and links! I'm following along in the Fractal case club thread as well to see how you like the Define 7 XL. Quite an interesting case, although it would only be an option for me if I decided not to get a hybrid GPU since I would block the front mount with HDDs. Still a nice case with solid build quality from the reviews I've seen.

Edit: Spelling is hard. I should sleep...


----------



## shilka

Versalius said:


> Ah, so HDDs mounted on the bottom bracket are fine noise-wise, but any mounted along the side cause massive vibrations. Since I'm thinking of occupying the side with an AIO, this shouldn't be a problem for my use case, but quite unfortunate for anyone wanting to utilize those mounting positions.
> 
> Thanks again for the comments and links! I'm following along in the Fractal case club thread as well to see how you like the Define 7 XL. Quite an interesting case, although it would only be an option for me if I decided not to get a hybrid GPU since I would block the front mount with HDDs. Still a nice case with solid build quality from the reviews I've seen.
> 
> Edit: Spelling is hard. I should sleep...


I have a build log where i post updates i since i dont want to flood the Fractal thread with all the small updates








Project Zabanya


As some of you might know my last PC project has been nothing but a giant trainwreck and after a year its still not working as it should and there are still a ton of things wrong and the PC is just beyond any and all repair so other than storage drives RGB strip PSU and cables everything is...




www.overclock.net




Right now i dont have the time to take the PC out of working order to take it apart and put it back together and have something go wrong i am far too busy to deal with that
I have a few days off next week so i am going to work there when i have the time to deal with it

From my experience whatever can go wrong, will go wrong so better to deal with it when i have time for it rather than missing deadlines because the PC is not working i had more than enough of that crap the last time

As for the Define 7 XL you can have both the GPU rad AND HDD´s at the same time as long as you have 6 or less HDD´s
If you fit the GPU rad in the front you still have room for 4 drives in the bottom and 2-4 in the front above or below the rad

Hell you could even mount HDD´s to the rad itself if you wanted but i wont recommend that for obvious reasons


----------



## Imprezzion

I'm still trying to figure out a way to mount a 280 rad with a build-in res and pump (EK Phoenix 280) in the front of my Phanteks Evolv X and leave enough room for a top 360. Like, it's super close but it's like 5-6mm off of fitting.. it has a 240 in there now with just a exhaust fan next to it but if I wanna have a 360 it's too thick and hits the front rad 










Anyone know of something like a mod or whatever that allows me to make it fit? The only thing I can really come up with is dropping the front rad into the PSU shroud which also doesn't fit as it's too thick push-pull so I'd have to cut the hole in the PSU shroud. Not really something I'm against but I'd rather not lol.


----------



## Avathar77

Hi
Interested in the 719 case, but the top rad clearance does worry me.
Anyone know if I can fit a Monsta 480 RAD in the front and have the fill port used as well(or does it cover it?)?


----------



## kendo5587

Can someone give me the measurement from top to bottom of the OSU shroud in the Ethnoo 719, I'm guessing around 240mm?


----------



## shilka

kendo5587 said:


> Can someone give me the measurement from top to bottom of the OSU shroud in the Ethnoo 719, I'm guessing around 240mm?


Do you mean PSU and on the PSU side or inside the case?
Its 18 cm from the bottom of the case to the top on the inside


----------



## kendo5587

shilka said:


> Do you mean PSU and on the PSU side or inside the case?
> Its 18 cm from the bottom of the case to the top on the inside


Great, thanks.I mean from the NON-psu side. You can probably tell that i'm rubbish at those guess how many sweets are in the bottle thing .

The reason I ask is that I want a thick rad at the bottom (push/pull) and an EK 360 rectangular res mounted horizontally, but i also wand a side facing GPU mount.

So fans 50mm + EK 360 res 120mm, only leaves 10mm , but there is a distance between where the bottom GPU block would start but thats prob no more than 20mm.

I'm having real trouble figuring out how many rads, what thickness and what positions in this case, the bottom rad is limited to 125mm width and various other considerations, how have you got yours setup rad wise?


----------



## shilka

kendo5587 said:


> Great, thanks.I mean from the NON-psu side. You can probably tell that i'm rubbish at those guess how many sweets are in the bottle thing .
> 
> The reason I ask is that I want a thick rad at the bottom (push/pull) and an EK 360 rectangular res mounted horizontally, but i also wand a side facing GPU mount.
> 
> So fans 50mm + EK 360 res 120mm, only leaves 10mm , but there is a distance between where the bottom GPU block would start but thats prob no more than 20mm.
> 
> I'm having real trouble figuring out how many rads, what thickness and what positions in this case, the bottom rad is limited to 125mm width and various other considerations, how have you got yours setup rad wise?


I am not doing liquid cooling i bought the 719 because at the time it was the only case i could find that could hold all my HDD´s and my long GPU and i regret buying a 719 its terrible at least for my use case







I have posted many times about what i dont like about the 719 both here and in other threads
I am moving my PC over to the Fractal Design Define 7 XL tomorrow


----------



## DarthBaggins

Guess you didn't look that hard, beQuiet makes cases that would have fit your needs and Fractal has, as you now know, made multiple cases that would more than fit your use case (no pun intended). I use my son's PC as a file/media server so my personal rig doesn't have to burdened w/ HDD's inside it.


----------



## shilka

DarthBaggins said:


> Guess you didn't look that hard, beQuiet makes cases that would have fit your needs and Fractal has, as you now know, made multiple cases that would more than fit your use case (no pun intended). I use my son's PC as a file/media server so my personal rig doesn't have to burdened w/ HDD's inside it.


Be Quiet and Fractal i thought at the time was too plain and boring and the 719 looked much better and it still does but everything else is far worse
I rather have a plain and boring case that is good rather than a flasy tacky case with a ton of problems like the 719

The Define 7 XL by the way came out 4 months after i bought the 719 so kinda hard to buy a case that did not exist


----------



## kendo5587

Anyone care to state what the gap is here ie the edge of the front mounted 120 fan/rad to the side mount?


----------



## martin2

I don't see a lot of benefits and disadvantages to either so what do you think? I am going to have a large motherboard with water cooling (not AIO). The size difference does not seem that different except for the 300mm width of the 1000D being much larger and having two fan columns. Does this small increase in all dimensions help? I am not going to be using a 2nd motherboard in the 1000D.

Now, it might seem strange, but what would you choose for a super-silent, water-cooled machine? and Why?

Lian-Li PC-V3000WX
Corsair Obsidian 1000D
Phanteks Enthoo Elite

Lian-Li is alu but narrow, Obsidian is steel, but spacious, Elite is... expensive and nice I guess?

which is the difference between these 3>?> in terms of space, water cooling options,, material quality, and etc?
which is better from these 3?


----------



## DarthBaggins

shilka said:


> Be Quiet and Fractal i thought at the time was too plain and boring and the 719 looked much better and it still does but everything else is far worse
> I rather have a plain and boring case that is good rather than a flasy tacky case with a ton of problems like the 719
> 
> The Define 7 XL by the way came out 4 months after i bought the 719 so kinda hard to buy a case that did not exist


The Define 6 did though


----------



## martin2

which is the difference between these 3>?> in terms of space, water cooling options,, material quality, and etc?


----------



## martin2

martin2 said:


> which is the difference between these 3>?> in terms of space, water cooling options,, material quality, and etc?


Lian-Li PC-V3000WX
Corsair Obsidian 1000D
Phanteks Enthoo Elite


----------



## ciarlatano

martin2 said:


> I don't see a lot of benefits and disadvantages to either so what do you think? I am going to have a large motherboard with water cooling (not AIO). The size difference does not seem that different except for the 300mm width of the 1000D being much larger and having two fan columns. Does this small increase in all dimensions help? I am not going to be using a 2nd motherboard in the 1000D.
> 
> Now, it might seem strange, but what would you choose for a super-silent, water-cooled machine? and Why?
> 
> Lian-Li PC-V3000WX
> Corsair Obsidian 1000D
> Phanteks Enthoo Elite
> 
> Lian-Li is alu but narrow, Obsidian is steel, but spacious, Elite is... expensive and nice I guess?
> 
> which is the difference between these 3>?> in terms of space, water cooling options,, material quality, and etc?
> which is better from these 3?


I would be hard pressed to tell you which I would choose between the Elite and the PC-V3000WX, as both are beautifully made cases. That would really come down to your components, desired setup, etc.

But I would not be hard pressed to say that the 1000D does not belong in the same conversation with the above two. Design, build quality and materials are not in the same league. It's a big step down from the Elite or PC-V3000WX.


----------



## martin2

ciarlatano said:


> I would be hard pressed to tell you which I would choose between the Elite and the PC-V3000WX, as both are beautifully made cases. That would really come down to your components, desired setup, etc.
> 
> But I would not be hard pressed to say that the 1000D does not belong in the same conversation with the above two. Design, build quality and materials are not in the same league. It's a big step down from the Elite or PC-V3000WX.



do you believe that elite has very good quality,.,. and also that elite has the best watercooling options??
also elite is very big case??


----------



## martin2

martin2 said:


> do you believe that elite has very good quality,.,. and also that elite has the best watercooling options??
> also elite is very big case??


what kind of materials has the elite?? and why elite is so expensive in the market??


----------



## shilka

DarthBaggins said:


> The Define 6 did though


Was not big enough and it does not matter the least i cant change the past or what i bought so this is a pointless conversation


----------



## Elrick

shilka said:


> Was not big enough and it does not matter the least i cant change the past or what i bought so this is a pointless conversation


If you've seen the waste of money on purchasing cases in my past, you would be shocked with my ongoing tragedy of failed case accumulation.

Most of them got ditched into Land-Fill simply because another case came out that would suit my purpose, so never feel like you are married to any purchased case for Life.

If you see another that might be more fitting to your requirements then JUMP on it immediately. Life is way too short to put up with unsuccessful case design, there will always be room for another new PC Case at my place because it will happen under any circumstance.


----------



## flyinion

.


----------



## shilka

flyinion said:


> Anyone have input? You can see the original setup in my avatar pic.


Sory we cant see any picture on your avatar its a purple background with an f on it


----------



## flyinion

.


----------



## flyinion

.


----------



## ciarlatano

flyinion said:


> I added a temp sensor in up there to check the temp after it comes through the CPU and GPU and the lead was about an inch too short to cleanly route it from the more obvious choice for the cpu return line. If I find a two pin extension I could swap it back next time I drain the loop.


Where the temp sensor is in the loop makes little difference. You _might_ see a 1-2C difference (more likely 1C) at different points in the loop, but that's about it. Just put it where it's convenient.


----------



## Avacado

I always cringe when I see rad drain ports at the top. Would you consider running your Next CPU block goofy and running a tube behind the GPU to the bottom rad. Then flip the front rad orientation and run a tube from the bottom rad to it, then the res?


----------



## flyinion

.


----------



## justplainslow

Here my crazy set up!!


----------



## flyinion

.


----------



## flyinion

.


----------



## flyinion

.


----------



## flyinion

.


----------



## DarthBaggins

You don't need to repost your photo seeking attention, also quadpost very bad - always edit your previous and add to it instead of spamming a thread (You've been a member long enough to know this).


----------



## flyinion

DarthBaggins said:


> You don't need to repost your photo seeking attention, also quadpost very bad - always edit your previous and add to it instead of spamming a thread (You've been a member long enough to know this).


Uh sorry, I'm not sure what photo I reposted? Assuming this was aimed at me. If you're confusing the system on photos with the blue lighting, they are NOT the same photo. I was simply posting the updated build to give others buying the case ideas. Also I assumed it was bad form to just keep editing posts. Some of my previous replies were to people offering suggestions. So whatever, yes I've been a member for a while but apparently I don't actually visit/read enough to know all the elitist rules around here so whatever


----------



## ErrantPigeon

So, looks like Phanteks is teasing a new case on Instagram: Phanteks - Coming Soon... it looks like a revision of the Evolv Shift with more ARGB.

Personally, I hope they do something abou the thermal issues and bring it closer to the other popular SFF cases we've been seeing lately, while keeping the Evolv design language. Looks like the proper announcement will be on 16th Dec.


----------



## Swiso

Hello,
I would like to ask Phanteks Enthoo 719 owners a question regarding the Phanteks dual 5.25” bay bracket : Phanteks Innovative Computer Hardware Design
I understand correctly that this bracket should be mounted on the top right corner on the left side of the case ?
I would need this bracket for installing two 5.25 optical drives, but if the bracket can be mounted only there, how I could access the drives if the left side panel will cover them ?
I should cut out that part of the panel ? (!!) or is there any optional side panel already made for this scenario ?
I am missing something ?
Thanks for any comments on that.


----------



## shilka

Swiso said:


> Hello,
> I would like to ask Phanteks Enthoo 719 owners a question regarding the Phanteks dual 5.25” bay bracket : Phanteks Innovative Computer Hardware Design
> I understand correctly that this bracket should be mounted on the top right corner on the left side of the case ?
> I would need this bracket for installing two 5.25 optical drives, but if the bracket can be mounted only there, how I could access the drives if the left side panel will cover them ?
> I should cut out that part of the panel ? (!!) or is there any optional side panel already made for this scenario ?
> I am missing something ?
> Thanks for any comments on that.


You can only mount the bracket in the top and if you want to use the drives you will need to open the glass side panel or like you said cut out a part of the glass and no there is no side panel with a cut out already

If you have not already bought the 719 dont bother i used to have one before i threw it out as it was so terrible at least for my use case
Buy a Fractal Design Define 7 XL or the newer Meshify 2 XL they are much better than the 719 thats what i did and i have been very happy with my Define 7 XL


----------



## Swiso

Hello shilka,
Thank you very much for the information.
As I feared....
Don't have bought yet...
The Fractal Define 7XL is one that i am looking at...but there are many reviews that say that airflow and thermals are pretty bad...
The "problem" is that I plan to install a threadripper 3960X in the new case and, bad thermals + 280TDP look like a bad match...

The PC that I use right now is on a Lian-Li PC-V2120 case...pretty big and lot of fans, and the Noctua NH-D15S is enough for the cpu I use (i7-5930k)...
I would like a case that would allow to go watercooling without having to sacrifice the storage capacity....basically:
2 optical drives, 3 SSD 2.5 snd 3 HDD 3.5... leaving some space for extra drives...
At first i will try with the Noctua NH-U14S TR4-SP3 because is cheap comlared to custom loop.... but would like the optionto go water cooling in case.

Was looking at the Enthoo Primo too.... any opinion about this case ?

Thanks


----------



## shilka

Swiso said:


> Hello shilka,
> Thank you very much for the information.
> As I feared....
> Don't have bought yet...
> The Fractal Define 7XL is one that i am looking at...but there are many reviews that say that airflow and thermals are pretty bad...
> The "problem" is that I plan to install a threadripper 3960X in the new case and, bad thermals + 280TDP look like a bad match...
> 
> The PC that I use right now is on a Lian-Li PC-V2120 case...pretty big and lot of fans, and the Noctua NH-D15S is enough for the cpu I use (i7-5930k)...
> I would like a case that would allow to go watercooling without having to sacrifice the storage capacity....basically:
> 2 optical drives, 3 SSD 2.5 snd 3 HDD 3.5... leaving some space for extra drives...
> At first i will try with the Noctua NH-U14S TR4-SP3 because is cheap comlared to custom loop.... but would like the optionto go water cooling in case.
> 
> Was looking at the Enthoo Primo too.... any opinion about this case ?
> 
> Thanks


The Meshify 2 XL just came out and its a Define 7 XL with the air flow problem fixed
I ordered one a few days ago for my second PC and i am getting it tomorrow so i can show you pictures if you want?








Meshify 2 XL


The Meshify 2 XL is a massive high-performance case with a bold, stealth-inspired aesthetic. Its striking exterior features bolt-free, flush tempered glass, a fully removable top granting excellent interior access, and a fully redesigned front complete with USB 3.1 Gen 2 Type-C. The enormous...




www.fractal-design.com





With the XL you got room for up to 20x 3,5 or 2,5 inch drives or two 5,25 bays and up to 18 3,5 or 2,5 inch drives
Or if you want to have fans in the rear and top 2x 5,25 bays and 12x 3,5 or 2,5 inch drives

You also got room for huge motherboards and for having thick rads with fans in the top WITHOUT them blocking the top of the motherboard like in the 719

With the 719 you got next to zero room above the motherboard and even have a normal 140mm fan gets in the way of the EPS cable which means you need to remove the fan if you want remove the EPS cable for any reason

The overall build quality of the 719 is not all that great either and having HDD´s mounted in the front is like a small earthquake when more than one HDD is working
The HDD cages and how they are mounted are hot garbage

The metal frame of the 719 is pretty thin and weak and it can flex quite a bit when you take the front top and side panels off
The XL on the other hand does not move an inch i tried even using quite a bit of force and it did not move so its a lot thicker and stronger


----------



## Swiso

Thanks for the suggestion, but i don't see any 5.25" option in the Meshify 2 XL...so that's a no go for me unfortunately...


----------



## shilka

Swiso said:


> Thanks for the suggestion, but i don't see any 5.25" option in the Meshify 2 XL...so that's a no go for me unfortunately...


You are aware that the reason for the bad temps in the Define 7 is due to the crappy stock fans right?
The stock fans are only 3 pin 1000 RPM and they are made to be quiet not to move a lot of air

If you replace the stock fans with better fans like Arctic Cooling P14 PWM fans and if you open or remove the front door the temps will improve by quite a lot
They will also improve if you use the air flow top panel instead of the solid metal top panel so with all 3 things done temps will be a whole lot better

You are looking at as much as 16c less and thats just with the door opened or moved the front filter removed and with the air flow top panel its not even with better fans
Even if you keep the door closed and the filter in the bigest problem is the crappy stock fans they are quiet yes but are not worth a damm when it comes to air flow

Just buy some good fans and the temps will no longer be a problem its the crappy fans not the case itself other than the door
You might be looking at a 15-20c lower temp in the case just by doing a few tweaks and throwing the stock fans in the trash


----------



## Swiso

Yes, I see what you mean.
I could replace the stock fans with the Noctua that I have....
Will think about it.
Thanks.


----------



## Swiso

shilka said:


> You are aware that the reason for the bad temps in the Define 7 is due to the crappy stock fans right?
> The stock fans are only 3 pin 1000 RPM and they are made to be quiet not to move a lot of air
> 
> If you replace the stock fans with better fans like Arctic Cooling P14 PWM fans and if you open or remove the front door the temps will improve by quite a lot
> They will also improve if you use the air flow top panel instead of the solid metal top panel so with all 3 things done temps will be a whole lot better
> 
> You are looking at as much as 16c less and thats just with the door opened or moved the front filter removed and with the air flow top panel its not even with better fans
> Even if you keep the door closed and the filter in the bigest problem is the crappy stock fans they are quiet yes but are not worth a damm when it comes to air flow
> 
> Just buy some good fans and the temps will no longer be a problem its the crappy fans not the case itself other than the door
> You might be looking at a 15-20c lower temp in the case just by doing a few tweaks and throwing the stock fans in the trash





shilka said:


> The Meshify 2 XL just came out and its a Define 7 XL with the air flow problem fixed
> I ordered one a few days ago for my second PC and i am getting it tomorrow so i can show you pictures if you want?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Meshify 2 XL
> 
> 
> The Meshify 2 XL is a massive high-performance case with a bold, stealth-inspired aesthetic. Its striking exterior features bolt-free, flush tempered glass, a fully removable top granting excellent interior access, and a fully redesigned front complete with USB 3.1 Gen 2 Type-C. The enormous...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.fractal-design.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the XL you got room for up to 20x 3,5 or 2,5 inch drives or two 5,25 bays and up to 18 3,5 or 2,5 inch drives
> Or if you want to have fans in the rear and top 2x 5,25 bays and 12x 3,5 or 2,5 inch drives
> 
> You also got room for huge motherboards and for having thick rads with fans in the top WITHOUT them blocking the top of the motherboard like in the 719
> 
> With the 719 you got next to zero room above the motherboard and even have a normal 140mm fan gets in the way of the EPS cable which means you need to remove the fan if you want remove the EPS cable for any reason
> 
> The overall build quality of the 719 is not all that great either and having HDD´s mounted in the front is like a small earthquake when more than one HDD is working
> The HDD cages and how they are mounted are hot garbage
> 
> The metal frame of the 719 is pretty thin and weak and it can flex quite a bit when you take the front top and side panels off
> The XL on the other hand does not move an inch i tried even using quite a bit of force and it did not move so its a lot thicker and stronger


Hello shilka,
I hope you received the Meshify 2 and that you are happy with it.
One question...can you check for me please, what is the maximum thickness a top radiator, including 25mm of the fan? 
In total, how big it could be before "interfering" with the top of the mainboard ?
Thanks.
I might look at a case without the 5.25" external bays...I will mount the optical drives in an external enclosure, if this will help cooling the whole thing !
Thanks !


----------



## shilka

You got about 6,5 cm from the top of the motherboard to the roof of the case
With a 2,5 cm fan you got space for a 4 cm thick rad before it goes below the top of the motherboard


----------



## ErrantPigeon

Looks like Hexus posted the press release for the Evolv Shift 2: Phanteks launches new Evolv Shift 2 and Shift 2 Air. - there's a TG and Air/mesh version from the start. Curious to see how it holds up in review.


----------



## Swiso

shilka said:


> You got about 6,5 cm from the top of the motherboard to the roof of the case
> With a 2,5 cm fan you got space for a 4 cm thick rad before it goes below the top of the motherboard


Thank you very much shilka !
I will think about it.
When you'll have some pictures, I would gladly have a look.
Thanks


----------



## shilka

Swiso said:


> Thank you very much shilka !
> I will think about it.
> When you'll have some pictures, I would gladly have a look.
> Thanks


I have not had the time to move the PC from the Phanteks Luxe 1 to the new Meshify 2 XL yet
I have time tomorrow or the day after


----------



## Swiso

shilka said:


> I have not had the time to move the PC from the Phanteks Luxe 1 to the new Meshify 2 XL yet
> I have time tomorrow or the day after


Don't worry ! Take your time....I am still evaluating PC cases...😄
And BTW...apparently there is so many things that are unavailable right now that is quite unbelievable... RAM, M2, GPU...even cases....so...I guess my new pc will be up and running not before end of January....


----------



## shilka

Swiso said:


> Don't worry ! Take your time....I am still evaluating PC cases...😄
> And BTW...apparently there is so many things that are unavailable right now that is quite unbelievable... RAM, M2, GPU...even cases....so...I guess my new pc will be up and running not before end of January....


Bought an RTX 3070 TUF OC that has massive coil whine so its going straight back to the seller and i have been dealing with that
I would rather have a 6800 XT anyway the RTX 3070 was not fast enough

I can show you the newer X570 PC in the Define 7 XL







Like you see in the picture even with a fan in the top you got lots of room between the top of the motherboard and the bottom of the fan
My MSI RTX 2070 Super Gaming X Trio is going back in so disregard the Asus RTX 3070 TUF OC


----------



## Swiso

shilka said:


> Bought an RTX 3070 TUF OC that has massive coil whine so its going straight back to the seller and i have been dealing with that
> I would rather have a 6800 XT anyway the RTX 3070 was not fast enough
> 
> I can show you the newer X570 PC in the Define 7 XL
> View attachment 2467295
> 
> Like you see in the picture even with a fan in the top you got lots of room between the top of the motherboard and the bottom of the fan
> My MSI RTX 2070 Super Gaming X Trio is going back in so disregard the Asus RTX 3070 TUF OC


Is that mainboard ATX or E-ATX ?.. Nice cases Fractal Design...I built my wife PC with one of their case.
The problem i see it hs this... IF I would need to go liquid, I would need to remove the HDD housing I see on the right of the case to mount the pump and reservoir... thus losing a lot of storage capacity....


----------



## shilka

Swiso said:


> Is that mainboard ATX or E-ATX ?.. Nice cases Fractal Design...I built my wife PC with one of their case.
> The problem i see it hs this... IF I would need to go liquid, I would need to remove the HDD housing I see on the right of the case to mount the pump and reservoir... thus losing a lot of storage capacity....


Its just a normal ATX board and you can still fit up to 8 drives (with extra brackets) even in the open layout and if you dont use the top you can have another 3 drives up there as well
By the way there is a Fractal Design case club here on OCN [Official] Fractal Design Case Club


----------



## Swiso

shilka said:


> Its just a normal ATX board and you can still fit up to 6 drives even in the open layout and if you dont use the top you can have another 3 drives up there as well
> By the way there is a Fractal Design case club here on OCN [Official] Fractal Design Case Club


Thanks !


----------



## shilka

Swiso said:


> Thanks !


Sory its actually 8 since there is room for another two drives behind the motherboard 

If you keep the case in the open layout you got two cages in the bottom that can hold two each 2,5 or 3,5 does not matter which you then got mounts for another two drives on the metal plate and then mounts for another two brackets behind the motherboard but i not sure if the mounts behind the motherboard can hold 3,5 inch drives the side panel might not be able to close

You can see what i mean


----------



## Swiso

Thanks for the explanation. Yes..definitely I will have a closer look at both these models....


----------



## shilka

Better post in the Fractal Design club next time just quote my last post if you have more to ask


----------



## Swiso

Yes sorry.
Thanks.


----------



## [email protected]

Hi everyone, last year I bought a Phanktes Evolv X, which is equipped with 3 white PH-F140MP fans, with 3-pin connector (2 front and one on the rear) as standard. I then mounted 2 fans on the top, recycled from my old case.
Now I would like to replace the 2 fans at the top and I would like the best solution to be combined with the stock fans. I understand that these fans are static pressure though, so actually recommended for radiators, not cases, I'm confused about it.
What do you recommend? In my country there are some sellers who sell the PH-F140MP OEM version which I believe is the one included in the case (I am waiting for confirmation from the seller).

Also, I'm setting up a PC for my nephew, as a case we bought a Phanteks P360X, which has only one fan as standard (looks like a PH-F120SK). I would also like to take the other fans (140mm), what do you recommend for him?

In both cases, the cooling is air only.

Thank you!


----------



## ciarlatano

[email protected] said:


> Hi everyone, last year I bought a Phanktes Evolv X, which is equipped with 3 white PH-F140MP fans, with 3-pin connector (2 front and one on the rear) as standard. I then mounted 2 fans on the top, recycled from my old case.
> Now I would like to replace the 2 fans at the top and I would like the best solution to be combined with the stock fans. I understand that these fans are static pressure though, so actually recommended for radiators, not cases, I'm confused about it.
> What do you recommend? In my country there are some sellers who sell the PH-F140MP OEM version which I believe is the one included in the case (I am waiting for confirmation from the seller).
> 
> Also, I'm setting up a PC for my nephew, as a case we bought a Phanteks P360X, which has only one fan as standard (looks like a PH-F120SK). I would also like to take the other fans (140mm), what do you recommend for him?
> 
> In both cases, the cooling is air only.
> 
> Thank you!


Can you provide info on your hardware and how you are cooling everything? Unless you have a top mounted rad, the top fans are likely doing nothing but recirculating air within the case.

For the P360X, a pair of F140MP as front intakes would do wonders. I'm assuming the CPU and GPU are air cooled?


----------



## [email protected]

Yes, in both cases, CPU and GPU are air cooled.

My hardware is (in Evolv X case):
Ryzen 5 3600x with stock cooler (I'm considering whether to change it, especially to have something quieter)
Asus TUF Gaming X570-Plus (Wi-Fi)
Zotac GTX 1080 Amp! Edition
In the case I have no other peripherals, except of course power supply, ssd nvme, RAM and a HDD.
There are 5 fans installed, the original 3 plus 2 at the top in extraction which are the ones I want to replace.

My nephew's hardware will be (in P360X case):
i5 10400F, currently with stock cooler.
Asus TUF Gaming H470-Pro (Wi-Fi)
Radeon RX 5600 XT (probably Sapphire Pulse BE)
power supply, ssd nvme, RAM


----------



## ciarlatano

[email protected] said:


> Yes, in both cases, CPU and GPU are air cooled.
> 
> My hardware is (in Evolv X case):
> Ryzen 5 3600x with stock cooler (I'm considering whether to change it, especially to have something quieter)
> Asus TUF Gaming X570-Plus (Wi-Fi)
> Zotac GTX 1080 Amp! Edition
> In the case I have no other peripherals, except of course power supply, ssd nvme, RAM and a HDD.
> There are 5 fans installed, the original 3 plus 2 at the top in extraction which are the ones I want to replace.
> 
> My nephew's hardware will be (in P360X case):
> i5 10400F, currently with stock cooler.
> Asus TUF Gaming H470-Pro (Wi-Fi)
> Radeon RX 5600 XT (probably Sapphire Pulse BE)
> power supply, ssd nvme, RAM


Your build would be far better served putting the money toward a CPU cooler. As many here can tell you, the top fans in an Evolv X do essentially nothing other than recirculate air in the case unless you take the time and effort to completely isolate them. @doyll may have the graphic showing how, I can't find it at the moment. Try disconnecting your top fans and doing temp tests with and without them connected, you will probably see absolutely no change.

And I stand by my recommendation on a pair of F140MP as intake for the P360X build.


----------



## [email protected]

Ok thanks, but then also on the P360X you say that it is superfluous to mount 2 fans on top? So would just 2 front and one rear be fine too?

On my Evolv X the upper ones I installed because I recycled them from the previous case and since one is noisy I thought of changing it, but if the difference is practically nothing, I can also remove them without problems and think only of the CPU cooler. 

I Hope doyll answer, I'm curious to see that graph anyway.

In the meantime, thanks for the advice.


----------



## stulda

Hi!
I'm a proud owner of the Asus RTX 3080 TUF card as well as the Arctic Freezer II 420 mm AiO CPU cooler and Enthoo 719 case, obviously.

I'd like to know a few things...

In order to have my CPU cooler installed at the front of the case with the tubes down, I need to install my GPU vertically. Otherwise, the length of the tubes is not long enough to reach the CPU as the GPU is in the way.

I've done some reading and in order to have my GPU running at PCIe 4.0, I need a riser cable that supports that. I know the performance difference between 3.0 and 4.0 is negligible. So far the only company that makes such cables is LINKUP. I figured I need their right-angled cable and wanted to ask if someone knows what length should I go for? The Phanteks's Vertical GPU mount with a (PCIe 3.0) riser cable is 220 mm long. Should I go for 200 or 250 mm?

Do you think once the GPU is in the vertical orientation I will be able to mount the water block on my CPU ok? The length of the tubes is 450 mm it looks it's gonna be close.


Thanks for any helpful replies. Stay safe everyone!


----------



## shilka

No good PCI-E 4,0 riser cable exist yet
Either wait for someone to make one thats not terrible or buy a PCI-E 3,0 riser cable

You should not be using your CLC cooler with the tubes down by the way


----------



## stulda

shilka said:


> No good PCI-E 4,0 riser cable exist yet
> Either wait for someone to make one thats not terrible or buy a PCI-E 3,0 riser cable
> 
> You should not be using your CLC cooler with the tubes down by the way


The only '4.0 compatible' riser cable I've found is from LINKUP. Since it's the only option I have no choice.

I'll be mounting the cooler to the front of the case - always thought to have the inlet and outlet coming from the bottom rather than the top (air bubbles, noise issues??)
The only concern is whether the tubes are long enough - otherwise, I'll have to mount it upside down (tubes on top) which isn't ideal.


----------



## KickAssCop

First time building in a Phanteks case.





Tell me how you like it?


----------



## ruffhi

Q for anyone with access to a P600S ... the PSU cover has a horizonal part (where the GPU mount sits) and a vertical part (with the PSU logo cutout) ... can you remove both parts (easily)? Can you remove the horizontal part (easily)?

Edit: Sigh ... looks like the horizontal part is riveted (see https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sLuBVbTAZCY&ab_channel=PCWorld at 7:00 minute mark) 

And I caught Phanteks on facebook chat ...

FB Phantek: Correct it is riveted.


----------



## KickAssCop

Fixed some wiring, replaced fans with LL fans and added Lian Li RGB cables.


----------



## nyk20z3

Drained my Dynamic XL and picked up a Enthoo Pro 2. I have about 4 Phanteks cases already and this seems to be of less quality but i was aware beforehand. I will be putting dual systems in it just to actually fill the case up because why not. The main system is a 10900K/Maximus Extreme XII, and the secondary system is a 8700K/Strix Z390-I. I will post pics as i go along, already ordered a few more things for it.


----------



## doyll

Look forward to seeing pics.


----------



## Electrosoft

Tried to install a KPE into a DG-77 but that was a complete no go once unboxing it. Have it running on ole faithful (Corsair 540), but clearly a new case is needed (for several reasons).

I've narrowed it down to the Meshify XL and Enthoo Pro 2.

I do like the Enthoo Pro 2 because of the side radiator mount. The Meshify XL seems to really extend the tubes of the KPE in a not too pleasing to the eye kind of way.

I figure mount the KPE rad to the side and my 280 up top would work the best.


----------



## Imprezzion

How thick of a front rad can I push-pull in a Evolv X? Manual says 95mm total so that would be a 45mm rad with push-pull 25mm fans, but, if I do this with a 45mm 420mm rad in the front, how much clearance do I have left at the top then length wise.

My plan is to mount a 45mm thick push pull 420mm rad in the front (most likely a Alphacool XT45) and expand this where needed with a 280mm push pull top (probably thinner due to RAM / VRM block clearance) but I strongly doubt I have that clearance with such a thick front rad.. anyone got some insight into this?


----------



## Phil24

Hi all, Just wanted to show off a couple of builds i have done in Phanteks cases so far..

The 1st one (previous build) is in the Evolv X case and was built october 2019.
Components were:

9700K OC to 5.1Ghz all cores. (had it since not long after 9th gen launch)
Asus Z390 Maximus hero motherboard
32gb Trident Z RGB 3200 CL16 (4x8GB sticks)
EVGA 2080 super reference card.
2x 1TB Samsung 970 M.2 SSD
EVGA 750W G2 PSU
2x 6TB ironwolf Nas HDD's for bulk storage.
2x Alphacool 360x30mm Rads - 1 traditional and 1 cross flow.
EK WB black chrome fittings
Barrow 14mm OD/ 10mm ID PETG tubing
Singularity computers protium reservoir combo.
Phanteks CPU and GPU waterblocks.
Corsair ML120mm Non RGB fans
Phanteks DRGB fan shrouds and controller.
Cables were sleeved by myself.

















The 2nd build was a rebuild of the 1st in march 2021 which included the following changes:

Phanteks Enthoo 719 in black (Wasnt planned but got it cheap 2nd hand so why not.)
Ryzen 5900X
Asrock X570 taichi Razer edition Motherboard (one of only a few boards with dual USB 3 headers)
32GB G-skill Trident Z neo 3600 CL 16 (2x16GB sticks)
Corsair 850W psu (the old psu was starting to cause issues, i did buy it in 2013 so it had a good run)
Same GPU and waterblock
Same HDD's and M.2's
Changed the cable sleeving to a more universal colour.
Swapped the cross flow rad with a 2nd traditional alphacool 360x30mm rad.
EKWB CPU waterblock
EK Torque angle fittings.
Rest of the water cooling gear stayed the same.

Plan is to finish building a NAS so i can get the HDD's out of the case and then i can add the 3rd cross flow rad back into the loop down the bottom because i have it sitting there so why not.

















Hope you all like and i look forward to seeing more awesome builds from the community.

Cheers.


----------



## ilmazzo

Anyone experiencing issues on the power button? Enthoo Pro M here....Seems that the button is not feeling when I push it so I was scared that my pc was blown up, instead making more pressure on the small button I could start my pc.

I disassembled the upper cover to see if I could do something but the button is small and "covered" in a metallic envelope, since it is on a small pcb with the 2 white leds that enlight the power button, is there a replacement for it?

thanks


----------



## ciarlatano

ilmazzo said:


> Anyone experiencing issues on the power button? Enthoo Pro M here....Seems that the button is not feeling when I push it so I was scared that my pc was blown up, instead making more pressure on the small button I could start my pc.
> 
> I disassembled the upper cover to see if I could do something but the button is small and "covered" in a metallic envelope, since it is on a small pcb with the 2 white leds that enlight the power button, is there a replacement for it?
> 
> thanks


There is a replacement module, but you have to contact Phanteks customer service to get it.


----------



## junneh

Any p360a or x owners in here?

Phanteks list 160mm cpu cooler clearance. However on Metallicgear Neo Air/Silent/G they list 170mm. These cases are using the same base chassis. Can anyone tell me whats the actual clearance for p360a/x ? (I want to use my Brocken 3 with this case)


----------



## Mr Ripper

I don't know if this is the best thread but I was wondering whether there was a demand for brackets to support a GPU at the top where the ITX bracket goes in a P600 / Evolv (maybe others I don't know)?

I designed and printed this so I could mount one at the top of the case.


----------



## chibi

P500A - will this case fit 2x 360 radiators that are 50mm thick? Front rad installed inside, front 3x 120 fans installed outside the frame behind the mesh panel. Top 360 rad installed inside with fans pushing up.


----------



## Imprezzion

chibi said:


> P500A - will this case fit 2x 360 radiators that are 50mm thick? Front rad installed inside, front 3x 120 fans installed outside the frame behind the mesh panel. Top 360 rad installed inside with fans pushing up.


If you install the fans behind the mesh it should fit. That's the same thickness as a normal 25 rad + 1 row of fans. You might have to space the front rad downwards slightly on the mounting rails (it fits a 420 in the front technically) but yes it should fit.

I did grab this quote from GamersNexus review:
Moving the fans to the outside of the chassis revealed the real issue: they don’t fit. The panel is just deep enough to fit standard 25mm thick case fans at the top and widens towards the bottom, so there are no issues there, but the usable area for fans inside the panel is only about 37.5cm tall. This is about 3.5cm shy of the height of all three fans stacked on top of each other.

This should only apply to 140mm fans tho so 120's should also fit outside of the case but you probably can't space it all that far downwards.

I have made some better airflow mods in my Evolv X closed version. I made the cutouts slightly bigger and put a bigger size mesh in it as the small mesh had a lot of airflow noise going through it. This is literally bumper mesh for a car and works great. Also relocated the LED strips from the front to under the top panel and soldered normal ARGB 3 pin plugs to them. Looks sweet and much much better airflow like this.



















Front is a 280 rad intake with a 120mm underneath it for case airflow, top is a 240 rad mounted in the back slots as due to push pull with all fans inside the case it didn't fit a longer rad lol.

All fans are Alpenfohn Wing Boost 3 ARGB's.


----------



## chibi

Awesome mods there! I'm a bit concerned with the top 50 mm rad, but I'll just wing it and test fit. Hopefully the thickness with fans won't be an issue, haha.


----------



## yuyueyuyue

yuyueyuyue said:


> Recently just built a new PC using P400 case. This time I'm on air since I won't have time to do maintenance work on a water loop anymore.
> 
> Purpose of this PC is low maintenance and fewer system hiccups, so that I can start gaming without troubleshooting here and there in my limited spare time.
> 
> Few pics



Still rocking P400 in 2021.

I skipped 20 series cards. Unfortunately, 30 series no longer offer blower-style coolers. CPU on-air is constantly being cooked by a 300w 3090... and the noise is louder than I can tolerate. So I'm back on water cooling. I managed to pack a single 120mm x 38mm, a dual 120mm x 28mm, and a triple 120mm x 64mm in there. Who said P400 doesn't support a radiator on the top? I printed some offset adapters for the top radiator, and problem solved.

End result is probably not as cool as a larger case, but that's the compromise for a smaller footprint on my desk.

The loop goes from pump -> CPU -> top rad -> front rad -> gpu -> rear rad -> res


----------



## Imprezzion

Well, that is very close to the RAM but looks amazing. Does that rear single 120 actual add a meaningful benefit to cooling?

I kinda wanna do something similar in my Evolv X (280mm top, 420mm front) and I am considering whether adding another single 120 or 140 in the back slot would be worth it or not.

I will probably be using Nemesis GTS 420 + 280 rads, a Bitspower Summit M Mystic Black Metal CPU block, Bykski 3080 Gaming OC fullcover block (or if I find a 3080 Ti cheap whatever goes on there) and maybe I might even include my RAM in the loop with some random RAM blocks. I will be using a EK XRES 140 Revo with a D5 and soft clear tubing.


----------



## yuyueyuyue

Imprezzion said:


> Well, that is very close to the RAM but looks amazing. Does that rear single 120 actual add a meaningful benefit to cooling?
> 
> I kinda wanna do something similar in my Evolv X (280mm top, 420mm front) and I am considering whether adding another single 120 or 140 in the back slot would be worth it or not.
> 
> I will probably be using Nemesis GTS 420 + 280 rads, a Bitspower Summit M Mystic Black Metal CPU block, Bykski 3080 Gaming OC fullcover block (or if I find a 3080 Ti cheap whatever goes on there) and maybe I might even include my RAM in the loop with some random RAM blocks. I will be using a EK XRES 140 Revo with a D5 and soft clear tubing.


I didn't test with and without the single 120mm, just thought if there's space, one more rad is probably better than none.


----------



## Imprezzion

yuyueyuyue said:


> I didn't test with and without the single 120mm, just thought if there's space, one more rad is probably better than none.


I see. It is going to complicate the loop a lot if I do it, if it even fits with the top 280 far enough back in the rails to fit the 420 + res in the front lol. Gotta do some careful measuring. I currently run 2 280's in a separate loop with a EK Phoenix 280 for the CPU which is basically a Coolstream SE 280 rad + Supremacy block + EK SPC pump and a EVGA Hybrid cooler modified to fit the Gigabyte 3080 and it works well enough and is very quiet with both push pull with Alpenfohn Wing Boost 3 fans but it looks super cluttered and temps aren't that great plus the EK loop is getting old and the pump is making more and more noise by the week.


----------



## JustinThyme

I ran the fans externally on my Enthoo Elite in the front. Just not enough space between the front cover and the fans to get good air flow. Like 1/4 inch at most, I'm thinking less. If it wasn't a solid front it would be OK but it is with air intake all the way around but that does nothing for getting the air into or from the fan with it being that close


----------



## yuyueyuyue

I did the inevitable.. (I repainted mine white. the old surface was rusted. Phantek's paintwork was questionable, not that mine is any better, lol.)


----------



## Imprezzion

yuyueyuyue said:


> I did the inevitable.. (I repainted mine white. the old surface was rusted. Phantek's paintwork was questionable, not that mine is any better, lol.)
> 
> View attachment 2516549


Wow looks great! Are those custom "holes"? I modded my front panel as well but a bit more.. extreme.










I had my dad's work cut it out on the waterjet for which I made a quick AutoCAD file. Only downside is a bit of air noise on the mesh. I had way tighter mesh on it at first to match the sides of the top panel but now switched to automotive bumper mesh and that works way better noise wise. No more air noise.

I also moved the RGB strips from the front panel to the top panel under the side mesh and soldered normal ARGB plugs on them as I didn't like how much light they gave under the front as it was never the same color as the front fans.


----------



## savagepagan

If only the Phanteks Enthoo Pro 2 came in all white.


----------



## The Pook

yuyueyuyue said:


> I did the inevitable.. (I repainted mine white. the old surface was rusted. Phantek's paintwork was questionable, not that mine is any better, lol.)
> 
> View attachment 2516549


why not just buy the mesh front for $20? 

bought the mesh front and built my NAS in my old P400S. works well for me.


----------



## CptAsian

Mr Ripper said:


> I don't know if this is the best thread but I was wondering whether there was a demand for brackets to support a GPU at the top where the ITX bracket goes in a P600 / Evolv (maybe others I don't know)?
> 
> I designed and printed this so I could mount one at the top of the case.
> 
> View attachment 2488118


Super late reply, but this is really neat. I don't own a relevant case, but just out of curiosity, do you have any other angles?


----------



## RoivonPC

Anyone tried using the 719 built in vertical GPU slot with a waterblock? My optimus block and card together weight 6 pounds. I did a mock up last night with the card in place and the sag is noticeable. Are there options for bracing? Yeah I know about the vertical GPU kit but that wouldn't let me route my hard lines in a way I want.


----------



## Elrick

Has anyone bothered buying and using the:
*Phanteks Enthoo Evolv Shift 2 Air?*

Was going to make use of some AIR only cooling with this design, but it has one of the smallest sizing for any style of Air Cooling Towers.
Although, the AIO provisions are simply atrocious on every level.


----------



## Asunder

Imprezzion said:


> I have made some better airflow mods in my Evolv X closed version. I made the cutouts slightly bigger and put a bigger size mesh in it as the small mesh had a lot of airflow noise going through it. This is literally bumper mesh for a car and works great.
> All fans are Alpenfohn Wing Boost 3 ARGB's.


Those are clean mods dude, good work on that! Can you actually tell me where you found custom mesh sizes? I had some ideas with rolling a mesh layer when I modded my define xl case, but I didn't find any at all that would have been usable on a pc case after a lot of searching. I settled with some silverstone fan filters for that reason, just drilled some screws together to make it look somewhat cleaner. 

On another note, are you happy with the Alpenföhn fans? I'm pretty keen on their designs so I was wondering how good they are.


----------



## steadly2004

Moved my build over to a P200A case to have room for a 2.5 slot video card. Cable management wasn’t the easiest. Haha but it works.
So the cool air seems to pass over the top of the video card and exit out instead of cooking it.
Thinking I might move all the fans in the front to exhaust and the rear to intake.


----------



## doyll

Elrick said:


> Has anyone bothered buying and using the:
> *Phanteks Enthoo Evolv Shift 2 Air?*
> 
> Was going to make use of some AIR only cooling with this design, but it has one of the smallest sizing for any style of Air Cooling Towers.
> Although, the AIO provisions are simply atrocious on every level.


I haven't used one but TechPowerUP tested one. Results look like air works well but needs better fan. Maybe use new T30 fan?




steadly2004 said:


> Moved my build over to a P200A case to have room for a 2.5 slot video card. Cable management wasn’t the easiest. Haha but it works.
> So the cool air seems to pass over the top of the video card and exit out instead of cooking it.
> Thinking I might move all the fans in the front to exhaust and the rear to intake.


Might work. Keep in mind there is only 1 back vent, and PSU heated exhaust is coming out back. 

Wouldn't take much time to turn fans round and see what temps do.


----------



## steadly2004

doyll said:


> I haven't used one but TechPowerUP tested one. Results look like air works well but needs better fan. Maybe use new T30 fan?
> 
> 
> 
> Might work. Keep in mind there is only 1 back vent, and PSU heated exhaust is coming out back.
> 
> Wouldn't take much time to turn fans round and see what temps do.


I ended up going a different route. I vertically mounted the GPU, since it can take in air from the side of the case. Seems to have worked out best so far. Temps are better than they were with on open side before.
I was also able to get the added on heat sink to the back of the 3090 applied more centered over the core and memory. So that might have helped.

The damn pci-express 4.0 riser was more expensive than the case. Lol. But seems to be working. I haven’t been able to test out any games yet. But it reports 4.0 x16 on GPUz.


----------



## doyll

steadly2004 said:


> I ended up going a different route. I vertically mounted the GPU, since it can take in air from the side of the case. Seems to have worked out best so far. Temps are better than they were with on open side before.
> I was also able to get the added on heat sink to the back of the 3090 applied more centered over the core and memory. So that might have helped.
> 
> The damn pci-express 4.0 riser was more expensive than the case. Lol. But seems to be working. I haven’t been able to test out any games yet. But it reports 4.0 x16 on GPUz.


Yeah, price of decent PCIe express 4.0 risers is reason I haven't done vertical GPU mount.

Look forward to seeing some pics.


----------



## steadly2004

doyll said:


> Yeah, price of decent PCIe express 4.0 risers is reason I haven't done vertical GPU mount.
> 
> Look forward to seeing some pics.


Oh sure. Here you go. The riser instructions said not to screw it down. I tried at first but things didn’t line up. Also there was some PCB sag under the card. So I wedged some plastic to keep it flat. It’s a little flimsy.

the rear fan became a bottom exhaust. I wasn’t sure to put it intake or exhaust. It really does put out some heat, so I believe exhaust was a good choice.


----------



## Elrick

doyll said:


> I haven't used one but TechPowerUP tested one. Results look like air works well but needs better fan. Maybe use new T30 fan?


Just LOVE the physical appearance of the *Enthoo Evolve Shift 2*, _high up in the sky,_ yet it's able to run some decent ITX gear in the top section  .

Shall indeed be using some of their T30 fans inside this build, placed orders for the fans, now the waiting starts........ yet again.


----------



## Phanteks_Care

steadly2004 said:


> Oh sure. Here you go. The riser instructions said not to screw it down. I tried at first but things didn’t line up. Also there was some PCB sag under the card. So I wedged some plastic to keep it flat. It’s a little flimsy.
> 
> the rear fan became a bottom exhaust. I wasn’t sure to put it intake or exhaust. It really does put out some heat, so I believe exhaust was a good choice.


Example my P200A build =)


----------



## SneakySloth

So I have this weird issue with the p600s fan hub that I'm unsure about. The 3-pin fans connected to the hub for some reason take a few seconds to start when I turn on my PC (cold boot) or wake it from sleep. The PWM fans start immediately but the DC fans do not. Restarts are fine, all fans continue running while the PC is restarting.

Is this normal for the hub? I've already gotten a replacement for the hub from phanteks and that too is doing the same thing.


----------



## bscool

SneakySloth said:


> So I have this weird issue with the p600s fan hub that I'm unsure about. The 3-pin fans connected to the hub for some reason take a few seconds to start when I turn on my PC (cold boot) or wake it from sleep. The PWM fans start immediately but the DC fans do not. Restarts are fine, all fans continue running while the PC is restarting.
> 
> Is this normal for the hub? I've already gotten a replacement for the hub from phanteks and that too is doing the same thing.


I would guess the 3 pin fan have a higher min RPM to start so the pc has to "warm up" a bit so then the fan kick in as they are controlled by the MB or however you have the main fan connector controlling them. Sounds normal.


----------



## SneakySloth

bscool said:


> I would guess the 3 pin fan have a higher min RPM to start so the pc has to "warm up" a bit so then the fan kick in as they are controlled by the MB or however you have the main fan connector controlling them. Sounds normal.


That makes a lot of sense. I just thought that as the PC for a brief moment runs all fans at max rpm on boot (including the fan hub PWM fans), the DC fans connected to the hub would do the same thing as the PWM.


----------



## KillerBee33

Hey all. About to get an Evolv X, is it worth getting the Phanteks riser PH-CBRS-PR22 220MM for a loop?


----------



## POLICE

HY!

*PHANTEKS Enthoo Primo SE
ASUS SABERTOOTH Z170 S ☆ Intel i7 6700K
EK 360 D-RGB
ZOTAC GTX 1070 AMP Extreme 8GB GDDR5 
CORSAIR Vengeance LPX Black 2x8 GB*


----------



## KillerBee33

Work in progress. Waiting on GPU block-Riser cable and a 360GTS for the top.


----------



## KillerBee33

Got my riser cable today. Anything I should be aware of?


----------



## Bratislav

Enthoo Pro 2


----------



## doyll

KillerBee33 said:


> Got my riser cable today. Anything I should be aware of?
> View attachment 2532340


Sorry for slow reply. I assume you have it installed by now. If not, while I haven't used this new model, they are no tricks to installing them. 



Bratislav said:


> Enthoo Pro 2
> View attachment 2542194
> 
> View attachment 2542195


Nice looking rig.


----------



## Bratislav

@doyll
Thanks. This case met all my expectations.


----------



## KillerBee33

doyll said:


> Sorry for slow reply. I assume you have it installed by now. If not, while I haven't used this new model, they are no tricks to installing them.


Well, now I'm looking for a 4.0 riser which are expensive. Looking into this specific one which is nowhere to be found.









Cooler Master Riser Cable PCIe 4.0 x16 - 200mm


The Cooler Master Riser Cable PCIe 4.0 x16 - 200mm is designed for greater data transmission efficiency, maximum flexibility and durability.




www.coolermaster.com


----------



## doyll

Bratislav said:


> @doyll
> Thanks. This case met all my expectations.


I used several Phanteks cases including Primo, Luxe, Enthoo Pro, Evolv X, Eclipes 300, etc. and am currently using Eclipes 500A. Enthoo Luxe white and Evolv mATX now. I go thru cases like some go thru shoes.  Phanteks makes really good cases. Not saying they are perfect and don't have a few things I would like a little different, but I think there's always room for improvement .. and Phanteks keeps improving. 



KillerBee33 said:


> Well, now I'm looking for a 4.0 riser which are expensive. Looking into this specific one which is nowhere to be found.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cooler Master Riser Cable PCIe 4.0 x16 - 200mm
> 
> 
> The Cooler Master Riser Cable PCIe 4.0 x16 - 200mm is designed for greater data transmission efficiency, maximum flexibility and durability.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.coolermaster.com


Indeed, expensive and not many of them. Good luck, and please let us know what you end up getting. I know I'm interested and suspect others are too.


----------



## ghoula

It turned out Evolv X is more capable than it seems at first
It can hold 2x dual 180mm rads, and 4 AP181 on them, all internally.
Only with 3 cuts. ( on the case)
But let the pictures talk for themself:








Top needs no modification







Middle plate inside needs cut here







And front. If RAD is an EK WE360 then you are good to go

And only if you use thicker fans, front rad needs a bit more space







Needed that few mm, but it can act as external drain port








About that thight fit afterwards...








Upper back fan needs a bit of a letgo , but it depends on board as well








Final internal picture
Gpu pump/res is hidden below deck 








That how it looks from outside and we reached the end of this story


----------



## doyll

ghoula said:


> It turned out Evolv X is more capable than it seems at first
> It can hold 2x dual 180mm rads, and 4 AP181 on them, all internally.
> Only with 3 cuts. ( on the case)
> But let the pictures talk for themself:


Nice build! 
What fans are you using?


----------



## ciarlatano

doyll said:


> Nice build!
> What fans are you using?


He said 4 AP181s.


----------



## ghoula

doyll said:


> Nice build!
> What fans are you using?


Thanks

Yes, these are AP181 from Silverstone, they are 32mm thick. 
Planned to use 25mm Phobya ( actually EK variants with PWM) 
but those I have are old and have some noise when hanged from top, 
and no 25mm fan can be purchased nowadays.


----------



## doyll

ciarlatano said:


> He said 4 AP181s.


I need new glasses .. or to pay more attention. 


ghoula said:


> Thanks
> 
> Yes, these are AP181 from Silverstone, they are 32mm thick.
> Planned to use 25mm Phobya ( actually EK variants with PWM)
> but those I have are old and have some noise when hanged from top,
> and no 25mm fan can be purchased nowadays.


Best 180mm fan on the market that I know of. 
Really like how well you fit everything into Evolv X case. Looks like case was made for them.


----------



## ghoula

doyll said:


> I need new glasses .. or to pay more attention.
> 
> Best 180mm fan on the market that I know of.
> Really like how well you fit everything into Evolv X case. Looks like case was made for them.


Yes it is and it has a sleeved bearing, but even with that, it has a bit of motor noise, compared to like 140mm fans.
Still, I would like to try out new AP184 with ball bearing, and Fractals new 35mm thick fans which debuted in the Torrent.

Eventually it fitted, but still, I would love to have a chat with the product design team at Phanteks  , 
because it could have been made so much better, with so few mods or missing clearence in millimeters, here and there.
Hopefully, with more companies aiming for 180/200mm fans we will reach that point to manufacturers consider compatibility with 180mm rads out of the box.


----------



## KillerBee33

doyll said:


> Indeed, expensive and not many of them. Good luck, and please let us know what you end up getting. I know I'm interested and suspect others are too.


Got one...Grab it while it's there








MCA-U000C-KPCI40-200 | Newegg.com


Search Newegg.com for MCA-U000C-KPCI40-200. Get fast shipping and top-rated customer service.




www.newegg.com


----------



## Elrick

Did anyone know that here in Convict Country, you can get this latest model colour;









Buy Phanteks Enthoo Evolv X D-RGB Tempered Glass ATX Matte White [PH-ES518XTG_DMW01] | PC Case Gear Australia


Phanteks Enthoo Evolv X D-RGB Tempered Glass ATX Matte White available to buy online from PC Case Gear – Australia’s Premier Online PC Store.




www.pccasegear.com





Pity, you can't use any high temp PC setup in these cases ☹☹☹☹ .

Should be alright with a 12400 and a B660 or an AMD 5700/ B550 hardware.....


----------



## noobee

Phanteks Eclipse P600S Case Review


Introduction There are many factors when choosing the right case for your build. One of these considerations is whether you want a case designed to be silent or a case that has excellent cooling performance. Well, with Phanteks latest addition, the Eclipse P600S, you may not need to choose...




proclockers.com





Hello, I am considering this case - and I was wondering what the preferred fan layout is using:
A) air cooler - E.g. Noctua D15S or Dark Rock Pro 4 (what I'll be using)
B) AIO CLC - mounted in the top - 360 or 280 (is there any consequence to using one over the other?) - Phanteks seems to recommend 140mm fans - suggesting a 280 AIO if you use one - or does it matter?
C) I am not sure I'll keep the included fans - if they are quiet enough, perhaps? I plan on getting Arctic P12s or P14s - depending on whether I decide on 120mms or 140mms
If I use 140mms - I could just buy one and see if the Phanteks fans are sufficiently quiet - or I could replace with Arctic/Noctua 140s or 120s

I'm interested in the Arctic Liquid Freezer II coolers 280 - or 360 - which is a better choice for this case on the top (for exhaust)?
Alternatives: EK Basic, Lian Li Galahad (I think they only have 360 or 240), Corsair H100i/H150i, Be Quiet Silent Loop/Pure Loop - difficult to find here/very expensive

Thoughts? I would like to plan this out - so I know what fans to buy/get. I don't know what to pick though - except that I'll probably start out with an air cooler - it probably doesn't impact which fans I'll get. It will include Be Quiet fans (2 come with the cooler). 

One last question: Does 3 x 140mm fans in the front impact using a 360 AIO up top? Does 3 x 120mm impact it? 

Thanks for any feedback/advice. 

P.S. the P500A is available to me too but I think the answers are much different when applying the questions to that case - right?


----------



## Imprezzion

She's a bit full eh.. hehe.

















Fans on the outside of the frame at the front. The front panel still fits. I have it spaced out from the frame by using spacers and longer screws on the plastic bits to make the front panel stand off further and it's now equal to the glass edge. The front panel has a big rectangle cut out in the middle with some mesh glued in as an intake. Top panel also cut out with mesh. The GTX 420 didn't really fit in the PSU bay cut out so I had to remove the motherboard tray screw in the bottom right corner, bend it 2mm, and basically forcefully shove it in there but it's in now. No real room to mount the res so it's just on a stand that I bent up from a old fan mount for the res. 

All the panels still fit but the RAM temps are horrible with the front rad blowing hot air on the RAM with the glass side closed. Kind of a shame. And yes, the back with the fan and ARGB cable management is a disaster and of course all the clips holding the cable flaps except one broke lol. At least the glass panel holds it closed.. I will 3D print new ones. There's a plan out there on the web for them.


----------



## noobee

How do you buy a P600S in Canada? So discouraged. :-(


----------



## Imprezzion

noobee said:


> How do you buy a P600S in Canada? So discouraged. :-(











Phanteks Eclipse P600S Hybrid Silent and Performance ATX Chassis -Tempered Glass, Fabric Filter, Dual System Support, PWM hub, Sound dampening Panels, Anthracite Grey : Amazon.ca: Electronics


Phanteks Eclipse P600S Hybrid Silent and Performance ATX Chassis -Tempered Glass, Fabric Filter, Dual System Support, PWM hub, Sound dampening Panels, Anthracite Grey : Amazon.ca: Electronics



www.amazon.ca





The tempered glass version seems to be in stock on amazon.ca?


----------



## Xellent33

Example my P200A build


----------



## doyll

Looks nice! Congrats on your build!


----------



## KillerBee33

Almost done. Just need to figure out my cable management.


----------



## doyll

KillerBee33 said:


> Almost done. Just need to figure out my cable management.
> View attachment 2557385


Looks nice the way it is!  
Are you thinking of moving GPU power cables to come thru near GPU instead of PSU shroud and work the slack out of mobo power cables for shorter runs? Might be better but it's not bad as it is.


----------



## KillerBee33

doyll said:


> Looks nice the way it is!
> Are you thinking of moving GPU power cables to come thru near GPU instead of PSU shroud and work the slack out of mobo power cables for shorter runs? Might be better but it's not bad as it is.


Dealing with Gigabyte's idiocy which is this, you just cant see it on my Image . Those are 8PIN Flat


----------



## KillerBee33

I'm out of ideas for this GPU. Even ordered sleeved 8pin flat extensions but it's been 3 months and I doubt it's ever gonna get here from China right now.


----------



## Imprezzion

KillerBee33 said:


> I'm out of ideas for this GPU. Even ordered sleeved 8pin flat extensions but it's been 3 months and I doubt it's ever gonna get here from China right now.
> View attachment 2557395


ModDYI? I got mine from there, China to The Netherlands took about 3 weeks. Fit perfectly and run great.


----------



## KillerBee33

Imprezzion said:


> ModDYI? I got mine from there, China to The Netherlands took about 3 weeks. Fit perfectly and run great.


Yeap. Over 3 months and nothing. Tried emailing them and keep getting same answer "According to the post office announcement, surface mail may take around 2 to 3 months to arrive". I'm in US


----------



## KillerBee33

It's not ideal but it'll have to do until I figure out what can be done to that disaster of a power connector


----------



## bajer29

Still looks good. I had to really look to see the connectors and non-sleaved cables. It seems pretty well hidden by the GPU anyway. You can always swap out extenders in the future but for now I think it doesn't stick out unless you know it's there lol


----------



## KillerBee33

bajer29 said:


> Still looks good. I had to really look to see the connectors and non-sleaved cables. It seems pretty well hidden by the GPU anyway. You can always swap out extenders in the future but for now I think it doesn't stick out unless you know it's there lol


Talking to someone from ModMyMods and they're willing to make those two in black and green for me. I'm not sure if I should get a very short extension or a long one.


----------



## Ngamer

Hmm... almost 3 months and no posts...


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## xarot

Had to come here to comment my Enthoo Primo is already 9 years old and still doing great. The best case I've had yet, no reasons to change. Parts of the exterior white plastic have started to turn a bit yellow due to constant sunlight from the window. Maybe not the best one considering water-cooling airflow but it can fit a lot of stuff inside. Modded it a bit to fit the Asus Dominus Extreme motherboard a couple of years ago and thus it's not as sturdy as it used to be. It's on wheelstand also these days after breaking my back a few times with it.


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## nyk20z3

What 360 rads are y’all installing in the bottom of a Pro 2?. I have a EK 120 PE I was test fitting down there and it’s to wide and hits the wall where you can mount a mini itx board. I thought this case was suppose to support big rads and I can’t even fit a PE. My EK XE 480 also doesn’t fit properly in the front of the case.


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## Imprezzion

nyk20z3 said:


> What 360 rads are y’all installing in the bottom of a Pro 2?. I have a EK 120 PE I was test fitting down there and it’s to wide and hits the wall where you can mount a mini itx board. I thought this case was suppose to support big rads and I can’t even fit a PE. My EK XE 480 also doesn’t fit properly in the front of the case.


That case, and the 719 it's based on, is limited to 120mm rad width in the bottom. EK SE's will fit for example.


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## nyk20z3

Who is running a 480 on the back wall of the Pro 2?


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## Elrick

Ngamer said:


> Hmm... almost 3 months and no posts...


Phanteks have lost their incentive to provide cases any more.

Even now, in my country, Phantek cases are not available. You'll have to pay up and wait for the next shipment, which might be months away.

Hence, most have gone for other cases, being sold and are available easily, without any prolonged waiting. Phanteks have taken up the 'Mercedes-Benz' style of ordering  .

Pay this year and wait for 2023 or 2024 shipment  .


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## Bratislav

nyk20z3 said:


> What 360 rads are y’all installing in the bottom of a Pro 2?. I have a EK 120 PE I was test fitting down there and it’s to wide and hits the wall where you can mount a mini itx board. I thought this case was suppose to support big rads and I can’t even fit a PE. My EK XE 480 also doesn’t fit properly in the front of the case.


Alphacool XT45 360


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## nyk20z3

Still mocking stuff up and trying to figure out what I want to do here. I already had a 420 Black Ice rad from a previous build for the front so instead of spending on a 480 rad for easier compatibility with the EK 120 FLT. I picked up a Bgears 140 to 120 bracket so I can start focusing on other areas. It’s a possibility I can still toss a block on the cpu since I have a spare Magnitude sitting around or do a mono block and add another rad up top. Honestly I get great performance from the Phanteks 360 aio and just wanted to fully water cool the 6900XT.


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## Sally-san

Can you use Phanteks DRGB fans with a Corsair Hydro Series H105 AIO?

So I've got an older system with an AIO the "Corsair Hydro Series H105". I'm looking to give this system to my sister, but with a new chassis. She likes the look of the Phanteks Eclipse-P400A however it only supports a radiator in the front and not the top. So i want to use the RBG fans that come with the case to cool the radiator and use the non-rgb fans that come with the radiator as top exhaust fans.

I know its a weird question but my friend had fans who came with weird anti-vibration rubber "screws" and it meant he couldn't attach them to a radiator and could only mount them onto the chassis.


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## DanS79

Does anyone know how much space there is between the top of the motherboard, and the top ot the case in the enthoo pro 2 and 719?


I'm trying to plan out my first water cooled build, and right now I'm thinking front and bottom as intakes, and the side, top, and back as exhaust. I'm thinking 480 in the side with in the fans in the back compartment pulling, and a 360 in the top. What I'm not sure of is how much space i truly have to work with up top before i have care about ram and cable clearance.

Ideally, I would just go with GTS 480, GTS 360, and NF-A12x25s (chromax). However if i really need to keep the top thin, I was thinking XSPC TX360, NF-A12x15 (chromax).

Everything i've seen or read has just said as long as your ram is less than 55mm tall you are fine. To bad it's almost impossible to find out how tall ram is, and everything skips cables.


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## VirusF

A question for the owners who had or still have a p300a, does it fit a 200mm psu with its cables correctly? Because according to what I read on your page it admits 200mm but with cables included. I have a psu evga supernova g2 1000w.


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## owcraftsman

I do not have the case but I do have the g2. Its case dimensions are 200mm long w/o cables. If you don;t need and the HDD cage is removable you would have enough room. Correct me if I'm wrong but that is a hot swap HDD cage likely not removable but where there is a will there's a way. Maybe a case owner can chime in to clarify. Happy New Year to all.


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